IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^0 ^-^ y^.^ 1.0 I.I 1^128 |25 UiUii |22 !g La IIP 1.25 HI U |16 — 6" 7 •Kiy Mi Sciences Corpoiation 3? WBT MAIN STRUT UWSTM.N.f. 145M (716)«73-4S03 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHJVI/ICiVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Instituta for Historical Microraproductiona / Inatltut Canadian da microraproductlona historlquaa vV Technical and Bibliographic Notas/Notas tachniquas at bibliographiquas Tha Instituta has attamptad to obtain tha bast original copy available for filming. Faaturas of this copy which may ba bibliographicaliy unique, which may altar any of tha images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checlted below. D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagia Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurte et/ou pellicuiAe Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiquas en couleur □ Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) D D D D D Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Relii avac d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr^e peut causer de i'ombre ou de la distortion la long de la marge intirieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these hav'3 been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouttes lors d'une restauration appa'aissant dans la texte, mais, lorsqua cela itait possible, ces pages n'ont pas At6 f ilmtes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppiimentaires: L'Institut a microf llmA le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t« possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique. qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mAthode normala de f ilmaga sont indiqute ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag6es Pages restored and/oi Pages restaurtes et/ou pelliculAes I — I Pages damaged/ I — I Pages restored and/or laminated/ Thai toth Hm afti fllmi Orio Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dicolories, tachat^es ou pi'Tuies |~~| Pages detached/ Pages d^tachies Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality inAgale de I'impression Includes supplementary matarii Comprend du matiriai suppi^mentaira Only edition available/ Seuie Edition disponible I I Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ r~| Includes supplementary material/ I — I Only edition available/ thai sion othi flrat sion or HI Tha ahai TINI Mai diff4 antl D Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalament ou partieliement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une peiure, etc., ont 6t6 filmAes A nouveau de fapon A obtanir la meiileure image riossible. righ raqi mat This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est fiimA au taux de rAduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 12X ItX 1 20X J 24X 28X I2X Th« copy fUmad her* has bMn raproduead thanks to tho OMMrotity of: Univtriity of British Columbia Library L'ojcomptoiro filmA fut roproduit gr|c« i la g4n4rotlti da: Uniwrtity of British Columbia Library Tha imagaa appaaring hara ara tha baat quality posilbla eonsldarino tha condition and iagibliity of tha original copy and in Icaaping with tha filming contract specifications. I.aa Imagas suhrantas ont 4tA raproduitas avac la plus grand soin, compta tanu da la condition at da la nattatA da Taxamplaira film*, at an conformitA avac las conditions du eontrat da fiimaga. Original capias in printad papar covers ara filmad baginning with tha front cover anJ ending on tiM lest page with e printed or iliustreted impres- sion, or the becii cover wlien eppropriata. All other originel copies ara filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illuetreted impres- sion, end ending on tlie lest pege with e printed or Hlustreted impression. The last recorded freme on eech microfiche sImII contain tha symbol ^»- (meening "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (meening "END"), whichever appiiee. I.a8 axemplaires orlginaux dont la eouverture en papier est imprimAe sent filmAs sn eommenpent par la premier plat at en terminant soit par la darnlAre pege qui comporte une empreinte d'lmpression ou d'illustretion, soit per le second plat, salon la ces. Tous les eutres exemplaires orlginaux sent filmAs en commenpent per la pramiAre pege qui comporte une empreinte d'lmpression ou d'illustretion et en terminant par la darnlAre pege qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivents apparaftra sur la darnlAre imege de cheque microfiche, selon le ces: le symbols -^ signifie "A SUIVRE". le symbols ▼ signifie "FIN". Meps, pletes. cherts, etc., may be filmed et different reduction ratios. Those too lerge to be entirely included in one exposure ere filmed beginning In the upper left hend corner, left to right end top to bottom, es meny frames es required. The following dtegrems illustrate the method: Lee certes, plenches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent Atk-e filmAs A des taux de rAduction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est filmA A partir de i'engle supArieur geuche, de gauclie A droite. et de iMut en bes, en prenant le nombre J'^meges nAcessaire. Les diegrammes sulvants illustrent le mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 y -t^ A /> ^-z l. K- >• 6-- .A^r \; ^^« '£ OlOt A ,■<■). :> "— • •1V'':~,K- -\ \ -^ 0- ' § ■rkfTk/r...- ■ ^- ■^ A' \ ^. ^. . «0'— • UM> C^Il_/» ***",""" i ^^.'.iH ;. / a.... I »i -A- hltlllSll NnUTII AMKl'.K A Map i»C till* *'(iimirv Id-iwci'ii I,.\KE Sl'PKKIOU * V.\N((>IVKK ISLAM* : to illustiali' till' I'h|m'|'s of the KXVI.OlllNr. F,XI'KI)iriON 1 NllKll THK COMMAS!) (il I'apt? John I'RUmcr . at Jr' .^, ..ft! lHr.7 l'» IHGl) rYNJ ^^' <•■- ' I " I J "t i.^rHi ■■ "V ■' ("■■"1 >v St . \iS rP- I -r t.,V^ -^ ^^ It- 1 . im J ^■•J^. ^r:&Tr^ " •/ J .- /v v'*,,i,..., ? „•* / i ^^-^ A--_j^^^ : ^ ,>r - I Nr ■ , 'fe. ■"'"■ •-■' ■"'''!^' . ♦>■ •* ^' .„^.N> THE * EXCEUPT FROM THE JOURNAL AND PROCEEDINGS OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, 1, Savile Row; FRANCIS EDWARDS. 83, High Street. Marylebonk, W. fS'o r^-j r --: ' r j^ T M I ( 267 ) A XXIII. — Pro(/rc8s of the British North American Exploring Ex- pedition. Under the command of Capt. John Palliheh, F.R.G.S.* Coiniiiuiiicattid by the Uight Hon. Sir Edward Bulwep. Lttton, h.i>., H.M.'h Secretary of State for the Colonies. No. 1. Eoad, Februaiy 14, 1850. Fort GaiTy, Ked Klvcr, May 3, 1858. Sir, — I have the honour to report my arrival at this post, on my way to juin the Expedition, and recommence my explorations this year from Fort Carlton. I shall still be obliged to wait for some days until the grass is sufficiently forward to enable me to proceed on horseback. Although the snow has disappeared, yet, owing to the cold northerly winds that now prevail, the grass is still quite as back- ward as it usually is at this period of the year, although the winter has been an extraordinarily mild one ; I hope, however, that I may be able to start on or about the 10th instant. I accomplished my voyage from Crow Wing, in Minesota terri- tory, to this place in a month, in a canoe, assisted by two half-breeds. We punted up the Crow Wing and Leaf Rivers, carried the canoe across the height of land from Leaf Lake to Ottertail Lake, but in attempting to cross the latter to the south shore we narrowly escaped being crushed in the ice ; however, we extricated ourselves, and were consequently obliged to extend our portage along the eastern shore round to the mouth of Ottertail River, the prin- cipal head of Red River. Down this river we ran all the rapids but one, making there quarter mile portage, joined the main stream of Red River at " Bois des Sioux," and came down to Fort Garry. I have the honour to enclose you Lieutenant Blakiston's letter on the subject of the Hudson Jiay and York Factory voyage up to Carlton on the Saskatchewan ; likewise Dr. Hector's Geological Report of 1857, which I will thank you to be so kind as to place in the hands of Sir Roderick M^rchison. 1 shall forward Mons. Bourgeau's Report on the botany and flora of the country, with a request to have it placed in the hands of Sir William Hooker. I have likewise received the map of the country, copied out by liieut. Blakiston from the detached charts we ourselves made on the route. Unfortunately he made but one copy, and as I have not the means here of making a copy for myself, I will likewise defer forwarding it until after my arrival at Carlton. ♦ See ' Proceedings' Itoyal Geographical Society, vol. ii., pp. 38 and 146; also vol. iii., p. \l'l.—]iv. 208 Palliseu'* Exploration of BritUh North America. , I have the honour of forwarding the Astronomical Observations enclosed in a letter from my Secretary, Mr. Sullivan. 1 have, &c., ,; , John Palliseb, Captain, ' '" Commanding N.W. American ]*]xploring Expedition. Jlcr Majesty's Sacrctanj of State for t/ie Colonies, ' ' First Ocncrut Report on tJie Geology of the Country examined hy the Expe- dition during the Season of 1857. Tub jonrney made by tho Expedition during the first scaflon has embraced two very dili'erent methods of travelling, marking regions of distinct geological structure and physical apjjcaranco. The fir^'t of these is the canoe route irom Lake Buitcrior to I^ako Winipeg ; the second, tho journey across the plains from Fort Garry to Fort Carlton. The general structural features of tho country travelled over on the canoe route, so far as they can bo learned from a single line of traverse, have already been well described by Mv. Keating, Sir John Richardson, Dr. IJigsby, and others ; but from the complicated relations of the rocks of which it is composed, no detailed observations can V)e of any value until they aro extended in every direction by means of an elaborate topographical and geological survey. The whole of this district is occupied by a primitive axis, the intermediate primitive belt of Sir J. llichardson, which is composed of gneiss, mica schist, and other metamorphic rocks, with intrusions and outbursts of granite, pro- bably of very different ages. From observations made in the course of our jour- ney, it a[)iH\ars that there are two distinct directions of strata in the rock which compose this axis, marking it into two districts, one from Lake Superior to Rainy Lake, the other from Lake of the Woods to Lake Winipeg. Not only the general strike of the altered and upheaved rocks in these two districts, but also the direction in which the water courses afTect the principal descents, and the manner in which the Likes in each of them are arranged, all indicat« a dif- ferent direction of the elevating and disturbing force, in other words, two dif- ferent axes. 'I'hese seem to converg* towards the south, including an angle of about 25°, the eastern one being directed from the north-east to south-west, while the western one lies much more nearly north and south. In each of these there is a great central district, where nothing but rounded bosses of granite are seen occurring as ridges and islands, which rise little above the level of the flooiled country in which they occur. On either side of these two granite districts metamorphic rocks are ranged, with great seeming in-egularity as regards their order and dip, but still on the whole preserving their direction ve^y consistently with the bearing of either of the two axes to which they belong. There are besides many minor outbursts of granite as dykes and intrusions, but they do not seem to interfere with the above-mentioned general iHiarings of the country. In the district between Lake Superior and Rainy Lake the summit level is reached by an abrupt and rapid ascent in a direction at nearly right angles to the main eastern axis. Then follows a long traverse, almost along the summit of that axis, and then an abrupt but comparatively short descent to Rainy Lake again at right angles to the axis. The first great step in tho ascent from the east is made at tho Kakabica srvations iin. expedition. prnceil two geological oute irom tlie plains the canoe Tso, liavo Ison, Dr. of which they are lical and ermcdiate ca scljiat, inite, pro- our jour- Hjk which iperior to Not only nets, but ants, and ite a dif- two dif- HJUt 26°, 'hile the !se there mite are I of the granite arity as lirection 3h they res and general level is igles to lummit Rainy ikabica Palliser** Exploration of British North America. 2G9 Falls, where, from a Buccession of faults which mark the comn-jnccracnt of the more highly metamorpi^oHed rockfi, a ouddcn elevation in effected, tho funini'it level of which is 17U I'eet above Lake Huimrior at Fort William. Alvout one mile below tho fall a fine Huctiou is exposed in the form of a flitf 130 feet high, crossing tho country from nortii-east to Bouth-west, citn- |isting of a dark argillaceous schist in tliin fisaile beds from one to two iiichen jn thickness, very much jointed, and having many small veins of quartz, and jonietimcs calcspar, included both in tho lines of bedding and in the joints. I'heso Ixjds are quite liorizontal, aiad through their whole thickness the river has cut its way back to the present position of tho fall in a ninnner sintilar to that in which the river-bed below the Niagara Falls has Iwen formed. At iiazy Portage, and at various points in tho Hiver KaniiuiHtoquoinb below tlio fell, and also at several of the rapids in tho lower part of tho White Fish ^iver, small sections of the same l)ed8 were seen, but all dipping to south-south- fast at 30^. But on ascending the latter river to a i)oint south-west from tho Kakabica Falls, there a section is ex])osed of the same strata, horizontal, like these at the fall, but only five feet high. Again, on the Uiver Kaministo- quuiah, above the fall at Friar's Portage, tho strata have acquired an almost vertical position, and a little farther on, at Lower Island Portage, are ibun\vs Dm #0 grai ca. d of granite, !t above the anitic belt is and that the Je lies within ation of any scent to the terly descent apid, and the ines at right ita, which is icial dc]x)8its latter lake is IV changed to lake, just as descent from mps of falls, generally at ita, and then cen Uie Lake seen, but the bne scattered iiipeg indicate Falls a large 1 the east side covered with ih this forms mouth of the he elevations ulders in this this alluvial ing of coarse forms a flat towards its es and roimd mess of this Lired was 8f 3 , rich alluvial lite sand. It en feet aliove the level of ce to connect tbio that this ke. Hut the houlders are drift. river flows Palli8Br'« Exploration of British North America. 271 tfirough a smooth channel, and the banks are composed of a deposit of soft ,iihite marl earth, the river being at first only slightly depressed, but soon '"'m its rapid descent the banks become High as the level of the deposit .nains the same. At Rat Portage, however, it retires from the river on tlier side, and below the falls at that place is replaced by another on another rel through a cutting in which the river runs to its mouth at Fort Alexander, je banks of the lower part of the river are very distinctly terraced. The estimated levels of the drift deposit at IJainy River, the Seven Portages, liid at Rat Portage, are respfectively 450, 350, and 270 feet above Lake Swi»erior, and deducting 195 feet from each, as the probable elevation of Lake ^inipeg above that lake, we have the levels above it at 255, 155, and 75 feet. ^ Glacial scratching was very distinctly seen at many points on the route, ^e direction is almost always north and south. Hardly a surface in the 0ro granitic tracts did not present distinct scratchings. They were seldom to 1^ seen, however, on the southern exposure of rock surfaces, if these sloiwd Auch ; but the more a surface with a northern exposure sloped, the l)etter they Jbemed to be marked. ' A map has been prepared of the country traversed by the expedition fetween Fort Garry and Fort Carlton, on which the results obtained have lifeen as far as jiossible laid down. ' The country around Fort Garry is a level plain of drift, which consists of ai %ht-coloured marly loam rather deficient in sand, with beds of white tenacious- day. Only a few boulders are to be seen scattered over the surface of this- fHain, generally angular fragments of the Fort Garry limestone of large size. At the Settlement the river is sunk from 40 to 70 feet below the level of this- |dain, but nearer its mouth it flows through a level swampy country, elevated Aly a few feet above its surface. At the Lower Fort, 18 miles below Fort 0arry, which latter is situated at the junction of the Assineboine with lied Biver, there is a section of magnesian limestone exiM)sed in the bed of the i^am when the water is low, and which is then quarried for building pur- poses. As the river was high when we were there, this section was not visible ; but from among the fragments lying on the bank several fossils were obtained, such as Favosites, Septoina, &c., and some poor specimens of Recep- tftculites. Major Seaton, the officer in command of the troops stationed ift the Upper Fort, kindly offered to make as complete a ojllection as he coulif When the state of the river allows of the beds being examined, and when the search will be facilitated by the labours of the quarrymen. This limestone is of a light buff colour with purple blotches, very hard and with a sharp angular fracture. At Stony Hill, about 15 miles north-west from the Upper jort, there is an isolated bluff of limestone, rising from the plain level to the height of 80 feet. The south and western exposures are abnipt and water- Worn, it having evidently been at one time an island ; and, indeed, during the great floods which have several times inundated the Settlement, it has been «fee of the few spots upon which the inhabitants can take refuge, reaching it by means of boats. The beds of limestt le are horizontal, or nearly so, and are slightly difleront from those at Fort (iarry in their mineral aspect, having t more crystalline fracture and the colour being of a reddish hue. No fossils can be discovered in newly-fractured portions, but on the weathered surfaces a few obscure renu.ins of fossils are to be seen projecting along with siliceoua •nd gritty particles from a dull floury surface. After leaving Red River, along the whole route to Fort Carlton, at only five localities were any of the strata observed which must underlie the drift throughout this vast extent of country. At Long River, lat. 49° 8' n., long. 98° 35' w., a tributary of Pembina River flowing northwards, and again at Forked Creek, a deep gully that joins the valley of the Assineboine in lat. .50' i tea. Palliseu'.* Exploration of British North America. 27r) pure grains •e occur con- •mparatively ;ration of this this spot an idstone wears iar manner of letimes long elevated on in valley are ruined nave reached the •n of the bed the illusion. I but composed ion and order The thickest it some places quantities ot Is, In regard aceous system )licative d'uno )f very similar lat. 49° 6' N., last year ha> Ithough thest the ordinary very different id levels were al distribution. ipon which the !vel. Its com- d a deficiency 1. Underlying -coloured clay, y points. The and reeds, and licating a time I it at present e the lake, but jh, where the lie first prairie ; at St. Joseph hat place. It 100 to 300 feet orth-west, and •ur route lay. liiferent levels ) been used to )m that of the iph, where the ierial is coarse an the eastern etween Lakcn Sttperior and Winiiieg. There are no signs of stratification in any part of iUs deposit, as seen at Pembina Mount. Farther west, however, it assumes a(,ilight grey colour, and contains a considerable portion of lime. At Fort liUice, as before mentioned, the upper portions of it consist entirely of frag- ilbnts of the Long River shale. That the whole tliickness of this level at ilffery point is not formed of drift, is proved by the discovery of the shale beds ill Long River and Forked Creek, fonning as it were a nucleus to it. Not- ^ptl standing that this level is everywhere cut to a great depth by rivers and jitecka, very little can be learned of its nature at different points, as slides at Hie banks of the gullies are l)ut rarely seen. The slide near Fort Ellice of Ike banks of the Assineboine has been sjwken of in connexion with the beds, Wtobahly of cretaceous age, which are visible at the base of it. Another lltoiilar slide was seen at the Qu'Appelle Lakes, which are a succession of lIBatations of the rivers of that name lying in the bottom of a deep wide ,lley cut through this second level. This slide did not expose the bank ite to the base, but as far as was visible, consisted of a stiff sandy clay, of light red colour, wth patches of blue clay and gravelly beds. In fact, the aracters of this level, as far as regards its mineral composition, seem to be 'ilftry variable and local. Boulders are tolerably plentiful all over it, but occur ftl' greatest quantity upon the sides and summits of ridges and mounds, which Ipe irregularly dispersed over this level, rising abruptly, and generally to the llfeight of about 50 feet. A great deal of this level is clothed with clumps of joplars. There are, however, some large tracts of bare plain. r<'' The third level is what is siwkcn of by the hunters as La Grande Prairie. The route of the Expedition did not traverse this level at all, its westerly *)urse meeting it only at the elbow of the south branch of the Saskatchewan, VI which place the aj^proach of winter compelled us to turn northward. There f"e, however, two hills, or mountains, as they are termed by the hunters, viz., urtle Mount and Moose Mount, which seem to be detached outliers of this ^vel, their summits having nearly the same elevation as that of the summit 4tf this level. These hills are very much alike, consisting of irregularly dis- ilosed ridges and cones of very coarse drift, highly charged with boulders. ■Ik>me of these cones have very steep sides, and rise to the height of 300 feet Hllom their base, and their summits are about 600 feet above the second prairie ^vel. The northern aspect of these hills is very irregular, as also their central tHiass, being mostly densely wooded, and enclosing numerous small lakes ; but ■Aeir southern aspect is a long gentle slope utterly devoid of trees, and lieing %>ntinuous with the level prairies l^eyond, which reach as far as the true ■aastern limit of this level, the " Coteau de Prairies." i* The Great Prairie ridge of the hunters has a direction from north-west to 80uth-east, with its northerly aspect very much furrowed in the same manner 'lb has been mentioned in reference to its two outliers. Moose Mount and Turtle Mount. At Roche Perc^e this ridge was about ten miles to the south, and the *xtraordinary profusion of boulders at that place, and the thin layer of drift which covered the coal-bearing strata, together with the facts which were *<&bs'\ 1 with a similar proximity to the "Coteau" at the elbow of the ^skatchewan, all indicate that the drift has at the " Coteau " its south and westerly boundary. . ., . Fort Carlton, December 14, 1857. James Hkctor, M.D. * ■ ' Fort Carlton, Saskatchewan, June 7, 1 858. ,^m, — During the latter half of last October I proceeded to Fort Pitt and Obtained the horses which you had ordered at that place for the service of the ^x{)editiou. On my return I made observations for latitude and longitude at T 2 276 Palliseb'« Exploration of British North America. rougli map of the countn various places on the route, and constructed a between Forts Pitt and Carlton. I found on my arrival at this place, that Lieut. Blakiston was busily engagc(i making preparation for carrying on a system of magnetical and meteorological observations during the winter months. We commenced the observations ot November 12, each member of the Expedition taking six hours' watch durini; the day and four during the night, in rotation. I continued on duty at the Fort until February 25, when a scarcity of provisions being felt, I jjroceeded to Pike Lake, where fish at least could be got. While I remained at the lake, which was from March 1 until April 2, I was employed chiefly in obtaining fish, and in that short time caught upwards of 100 jack fish, besides a few white fish. There has been a great scarcity of provisions throughout the Saskatchewan district ; the Indians have been reduced to eating their horses, and hunting wolves and foxes for food, as not a single buffalo has appeared for many miles on either side of the river, excr .t at Edmonton, where they have been so thick as to defy the hunters running them. On April 1, Dr. Hector, who according to your orders had been to Edmonton on business connected with the Exjiedition, arrived at Pike Lake on his waj to Carlton ; so I accompanied him to this place, where we arrived on April 7. Tliroughout the winter, as previously, I have kept up regularly the journal of the Expedition, and although it is meagre in detail during the depth of winter, yet as the spring advanced I have been very careful to note everythiiifj characteristic of its advancement. In addition I have taken the temperature of the river daily from the breaking up of the ice till now, and noted either its increase or dt^crease of volume very carefully. I learn from Dr. Hector that he has a number of like observations which he took in the autumn before the ice formed on the river, so an interesting comparison may be instituted between the two sets of observations. During our stay at Carlton I have made a complete scries of observations for latitude and longitude, and frequently in the winter I have taken observa- tions to ascertain how my chronometers behaved. Thirteen lunar distances are worked for the longitude of this place, and I have as many more yet to work. In the many spare hours which I have had in common with the other gentlemen of the Expedition, I have collected a large number of insects and other animals and various shells, for the purpose of getting them forwarded to England. There is one squirrel in the collection which is undoubtedly new ; it resembles the Arctomys Hoodii, but is much smaller, and is not patched witli light hairs on the dark stripe as is that animal. I have, &c., ' J. W. Sullivan, Captain Palliser, Commander of Secretary to Exixjdition. North British American Exploring Expedition. Observations of the Temperature of Soil at various Depths, and the Depth of the Frozen Ground. Fort Edmonton, 1858. 1. On the 22d February commenced digging a hole in the field behind the fort, on the top of the high bank on which the mill stands. In three days reached the depth of 4 feet 6 inches ; ground still hard frozen. The digging was discontinued in consequence of the man being required for something else. 2. March 3d. The digging recommenced to-day, but as the ground must have frozen in the bottom of the old hole, a fresh one has been commenced 6 X 4 ft. in the same field, but on a level with the fort, at a distance of 12 yards i 'tea. f tLe countn jusily engageii meteorological jservations oc watch during )n duty at tlie t, I proceeded ;d at the lake, Y in obtaining besides a few Saskatchewan and huntinn or many miles been so thick 1 to Edmonton ke on his waj i on April 7. •ly the journal ; the depth of ote everything le temperature lotod either its r. Hector that imn before the ituted between •f observations taken observa- ir distances are yet to work, vith the other of insects and a forwarded to jubtedly new ; t patched with NLIVAN, Exi^edition. '■ the Depth of onton, 1858. Id behind the n three days The digging mething else, ground must I commenced se of 12 yards Palliseu'* Exploration of British North America. 277 fnta the pickets. The soil is the same as that displayed in the last hole ; dark loMn for 9 inches, then a yellow reddish earth, enclosing fragments of the beds •liociatcd with the coal, also angular pieces of the coal itself, rounded flniements of gneiss, quartz, &c. -^arch 4th. The hole is now dug to the depth of 4 feet 10 inches, the last 8 feet through fine light red sand, which was so dry as almost to look like nitfrozcn earth : however, it got so much softer, and broke down so fine after it |i|8 extracted, that there is no doubt that it is still frozen. But besides, a bed }ji» been reached of a white earthy clay, including fragments of coal, so hard ftbzen as to resist the pick and the borer, and which on being thawed softens oempletely. This afternoon I bored a hole with the auger in the bottom of the dug hole, and intended to carry it down three feet, but the clay bed proved too hard for dip auger to pierce ; so after I got down three inches, I placed the thermometer Mit, packed it round with soil, and then filled the large hole with a foot or l^o of hay to prevent the temiierature of the atmosphere during the night from iifluencing it. March 5th. Thermometer, at 5 feet, at 8 a.m., SC ; surface, 20°. ?The unfrozen soil was at length reached to-day, at the depth of 7 feet 6 iliehes, in a bed of sand with rounded stones, and the line of frozen soil was euily perceived. The hole is dug for 4 inches below it, and then 4 inches nlore were bored, and the thermometer placed in it at the depth from the •ftrface of 8 feet 2 inches. March 6th. Therm., at 8 a.m., 33° (at 8 ft. 2 in. from surface) ; surface, 38°. „ „ at noon 33° „ „ „ 49°. 3. March 2d. In the field behind the fort, at a short distance from the pickets (20 feet), bored a hole one inch in diameter to depth of two feet, placed thermometer at bottom, having its bulb covered with tow, and being enveloped in a metallic case ; then rammed in a plug of tow above it so as to prevent the air having any access to it. The following are the readings of theitnometer : — March 3d, at 8 a.m., 18° • „ at noon, 18°* „ 4 p.m. 18°- 4. March 3d. Increased the depth of hole to 3 feet, and adjusted the thermometer as in 3. Headings as follows : March 4, at 8 a.m., 21°- 5 ; surface 23°. „ at noon 21°-5; „ 30°. • „ 4 p.m. water had filled it, from the melting of the snow, and hot water had to be poured down to get thermometer out. . 5. February 25th. After three days' thaw the surface of the field behind the fort is converted into a soft mud to the depth of three inches, and the ground is thawed to the depth of eight inches. This is on a slope where no water has lodged. February 27th. The ground this morning is as hard frozen as ever again, the frost of twenty-four hours, having a minimum temperature of • 5, having proved sufficient to re-solidify it to the full depth to which it had been softened. James Hector, M.D. ' 5 ; surface, 20°. •5 „ 24°. •5 „ 24° hole to 3 feet, and adjusted Fort Carlton, Hon. Hudson Bay Company, Saskatchewan, June 8, 1858. Sir, — In accordance with your instructions, that I should make every eifort to engage twelve or fifteen men, and obtain at least fifteen horses, for the use of the Expedition during the next season, conveyed in your letter written from Wouchwood Hill Post, and dated I6th October last, during the early part of the J0 278 Palliseu** Exploration of British North America. \\\ winter I made every inquiry as to the facilities for carrying out your wishes, The result of this inquiry convinced me that it was necessary that I shouhi make a winter journey, at least as far as Fort Edmonton, as it is only then that any half-breed population is to be found not under direct engagement ti the Hudson Bay Company. Accordingly having obtained dogs, and completed all other arrangements, 1 left Fort Carlton on the 14th of December. Up to this time I had taken my share in the hourly observations whid Lieutenant Blakiston was engaged in carrying on, and which commenced on the 12th of November ; and previously to that time I made a six days' trip ti the north-west for sixty miles, to examine the Thickwood Hills, which bound the Carlton Plains in that direction by an abrupt densely wooded terrace, about 500 feet in height. From Fort Carlton to Fort Pitt, the next highest Company's post on tin river, 1 found the distance \o be 199 miles : the track I .followed is about twenty miles longer than the usual one, but was prefen-ed, as it is so much easier for the dogs to follow a tmck already beaten, than open a new oiu through the snow. We skirted a range of hills which forms a continuation ol the Thickwood Hills to the west, and passed over many lakes, the principal ol which are Redberry Lake, seven miles wide and ten miles long, and Jack Fisli Liike, eight miles wide and twelve miles long. At the latter of these I foinul a small temporary post of the Comjiany's, which was only in the course of erection. I heard here that the buffalo had been veiy numerous, but that they had all been passing to the south-west, and now none were to be seen but a few straggling bulls. We reached Fort Pitt on our seventh day from Fort Carlton. It stands on the left bank of the Saskatchewan, at a point where it takes a bend to tlic north. Before reaching the latter place, however, it makes a great sweep t( the south, passing along the base of the Eagle Hills, which I had observed a- a blue line skirting the southern horizon. Fort Pitt is in latitude 53^ Zil n., and longitude (Lefroy) 109° 10' w. On the 24th of December, acconiptvnied by Mr. Simpson, the gentleman in charge at Fort Pitt, I started for Edmonton House. With the exception oi the first day's journey, our road lay along the south side of the river, so &> to cut off a gi'eat bend which it makes to the north between the two places. The country now passed through was on a much higher level than that befoi( reaching I'ort Pitt, agreeing with the summit of the hilly ground which was then skirted, and fi'oni this level other hills again rose. The rise of the country to Edmonton, nevertheless, is very inconsiderable, when the distance i.- considered, hardly amounting to 1,000 feet. For the first few days after leaving Fort Pitt, we found the plains covered with buffalo ; and earl}' one morning I was fortunately at a camp of Indians just as they had filled their pond with about 100 of them, and were carryin.2 on an indiscriminate slaughter. The p^nd is an enclosure of stakes and branches of trees interwoven, having one broad entrance, which is so con- structed that the buffalo, once driven in, cannot again escape. At almost every camp of Indians, of which nine were passed since leaving Carlton, I saw one or more of these ponds, and I believe the number of buffalo killed in this manner in each year throughout the Saskatchewan district is enormous. After the pond is filled they must of course slaughter every animal before they can remove any of the meat. The country to the south of the river through which we passed is raoro generally wooded tlian it is reported to have been some twenty or thirty years ago, but the wood is all of a worthless character, consisting of small poplars, with only a few clumps of spruce in the swami'S as Edmonton is approached. On the 30th of December, our sixlh day from Fort Pitt, we arrived at ."rfl vat irpos ibuts iEdr mor the lomis differe miain j|om iproen Ipiouu ,l|orth ^orth 'fixtrei fx 'jpiroi W Fo provi «mal 'Ihen ji)ass flea. Palliser'* Exploration of British North America. 271) your wislitvs, that I Hhoulii lis only tlieic Engagement ti [rangeraeuts, 1 nations whicli jmmenced on |x (lays' trip ti Avhich bound [coded terrace, 's post on tilt wed is aboil 1 it is so much on a new oiu !ontinuation ol he principal ol and Jack Fisli f these I found the course of rous, but that to be seen but It stands on a bend to tlio great sweep t( lad observed a.- 9° 10' w. 3 gentleman in le exception oi the river, so a? the two places, han that befon ind which was ! of the country le distance i.>^ plains covered imp of Indians were carryins of stakes and ich is so con- e. At almost Carlton, I saw ) killed in this is enormous, lal before they passed is morr or thirty year.s small poplars, i approached, we arrived at JUmonton House. The distance I found to be 191 miles. The snow had been iplkher deeper than formerly, so as to render the rate of travelling slower. , Edmonton House, which is a large establishment, and the residence of the ,d^ef factor, who controls the district, is built on a high point on the left bank 0- the river. There is a windmill behind the fort, and a good deal of land .6l|olosed for cultivation. The river is here 200 yards wide, and enclosed by IJbnks 160 feet high, in which are exposed sections of the beds which contain ,flill. This coal occurs in three or four beds, the principal of which is from ^r to six feet thick. It is of very inferior quality, bums with no flame, but fither smoulders away, leaving u plentiful ash. The beds associated with it are ipf grey sandy clay, containing ironstone nodules, and also argilo-calcarcous auales. It is used in the forge at the fort, and is found to answer toletably 1^11. I, The half-breed settlement, where I expected to find men, I found to be >i|ptuatcd al)Out fifty miles to the west of Edmonton; but as 1 learnt that all the J|ipulation was absent on the plain hunting, I did not visit it at this time. ,,^; On the 9th of January I started for Kocky Mountain House, for the first irce days travelling duo south nearly, and afterwards turning to the west for \lXee days more, arrivihg at that place on the 14th. The distance I found to 157 miles, but there wa? i,ittle cr no snow on the ground, so that it was ,Wry hard work ibr the dogs. The road lay over a succession of wooded ridges, ■Mfi western slopes of which were covered with young poplars, while the Jftttcru slopes and the swampy valleys between support a growth of spruce. ",if From a rising ground, known as Gabriel Hill, I obtained the first view of the ■iiountains the evening before I arrived at the fort. I found the Moimtain House to be an establishment about the size of Fort Mtt, but in a very miuous condition, owing to its being abandoned every immer, when it is generally adopted as a residence by several families of idians, who prove anything but improving tenants. It stands on the left bank of the river, which is 150 yards wide, and about Half a mile above the mouth of Clear Water River, a large branch which joins ,^e Saskatchewan from the S.E. '.f I remained hero until the 26th, making excursions in every direction for the DOrpose of examining the beds exposed in the banks of the main river and its tSfibutary, which are very interesting. They belong to the same series as those Ifjk Edmonton, and coal is found abundantly, although no bed that was observed ji more than two feet thick. The principal feature of the river here, however, » the occurrence of thick beds of incoherent sandstone of coarse texture which ^rms cliifs sometimes 100 feet high, overhanging the river, giving it a very different character from the tame sloping banks lower down in its course. ■ ;y. The Mountain House is at the distance of not less than 100 miles from the inain chain of the Rocky Mountains, which are nevertheless distinctly seen $foia it as a chain of snow clad peaks. The principal chain is, however, 'jlpreened by a nearer range, distant about 45 miles. The view of the l^ouutains occupies the arc of the horizon, from south by east to west by ,j|orth. The near, or Brazeau range, merges with the main range towards the f" orth, but lying more east and west than the line of lofty peaks, at its southern ttremity, it is far distant from them. I^.I made an attempt to reach this near range, but failed in forcing a road Jpbrough the dense pine woods with .which the whole country is covered. ^' For a short time after my arrival the place was reduced to great straits for |>rovisions, but a camp of Blackfoot Indians arrived, bringing with them ii jmall quantity of dried provisions so as to give temporary relief. '^ I met six of the principal chiefs of the Blackfoot Natives, and explained to 'Ithem the objects of the Expedition, and the course it would likely pursue when j^assing through their country, and obtained a promise from them that they ,# 280 Pallisek'« Exploration of British North America. "f would take steps to prevent the youug braves of the nation from stealing out horses or otherwise molesting the party. I gave each a small present aiul a mper in which their promise was embodied. The lat. of the Mountain Uoua IS 52° 29' N., the long, by account 115° 2' w. By a comparison of observations made with the barometer during my stay, and those at similar times at Fort Carlton, I found its altitude above tliat place to be 2,029 feet. The mean temperature for the time I was there is 10° higher than for the same time at Fort Edmonton, but for many days a soft south-west wind blew, which docs not seem to have aiTccted the temperature at Edmonton in tlie same degree, which accounts for this great difference. Having obtained all the information concerning the country which might 1* of use to you iu making your plans for next year, and learnt the names of the best guides, &c., I started on my return to Edmonton House on the 26th ol January. In order to obtain a clearer understanding of the structure of the country, I descended on the ice of the river all the way, and found the distance to be 211 miles. As we were only sparingly supplied with provisions we had to go very fast, and reached Edmonton after having slept only three times. The last day of the journey, as we had nothing left to eat, we did not think it worth while stopping, so wo travelled 21 out of. the 24 hours, and in that time went 90 miles. The coal-bearing strata are exhibited more or less continuously throughout the whole of this portion of the river, but about 130 miles above Edmonton the last of the sandstone bluifs is seen, and the strata assume the argillaceous character which they present at that place. Sections and a minute description of these strata, along with my journal, will be, however, submitted to you. Tlie month of February was occupied at Fort Edmonton in making an examination of the surrounding country and other observations. I made an excursion to Lake St. Ann to visit the Settlement and Roman Catholic Mission there, under the superintendence of M. Le Combe. It is 50 miles w. by n. from Edmonton, and consists of 45 houses in three little villages on the west shore of the lake, which is about 14 miles long and 7 wide. There is a nice little chapel, but at the time of my visit all the inhabitants, with the exception of three or four families, were absent on the plain. On the 7th of March I set off to the plains to meet the Freemen, having heard that they were now all together and on their return. I met them in the neighbourhood of Battle River, and succeeded in engaging the guides and men I wanted. These freemen seem to be a thriving class, and have none of that love of personal display and extravagance which is such a blot on the character of the Red River half-breeds. On the 15th of March I left Edmonton, and continued to descend the Saskatchewan on the ice. Four miles below Fort Edmonton I saw the cul' for the last time, and at the dirftance of 80 miles the associated beds disappear, and the clay strata with the ironstone nodules, which were first seen at the elbow of the south branch last year, and which are of cretaceous age, take their place in the bank of the river, to all appearance having the coal-bearing strata conformably superimposed. As we approached Fort Pitt we foimd the snow on the river, and also all over the country, to be very deep, so that for the first time throughout the whole trip we had to take to snow shoes in- earnest, which says a great deal for Itoon the unusual mildness of the winter, or rather the absence of snow, for the cold at some periods was very severe. I found the distance by the river to be 251 miles. The heat of the sun, from melting the surface of the snow, caused us to travel during the night, and rest in the day, during this part of the journey. I arrived at Port Pitt on the 2 1st of March, but finding that letters had missed mc on the road, I had to wait there until the 30th. The ice on the river was tea. stealing our [)rescnt and a mtain House Kng my stay, |>ve that place tlian for the bt wind blew, in the same ich might h names of the in the 26th ol cture of the the distance sions wo had three times, i not think it 1 in that time ly throughout ve Edmonton e argillaceous te description ed to you. n making an I made an itholic Mission liles w. by K. s on tho west 'here is a nice the exception emen, having it them in the lides and men none of that the character 1 descend the w the Cue for lisappear. and t the elbow of their place in earing strata and also all roughout the great deal for , for the cold ror to be 251 w, caused us the journey. *& had missed he river was I'ALLlSEu'a Exploration of British North America. 281 ll8w getting so biul that it could no lonf^cr bo safely travelled on, so that 1 hail to return by tho usual track to Fort Carlton. On the 1st of April I reached Jack Fish liake, where I found Mr. Sullivan, he having been obliged to kavo Ovlton on account of the scarcity of ])ru visions. At this place I had to give up tho use of sleighs, as the ground was now quite bare. I had travailles made for my do^^s after the method of the Indians, •ad along with Mr. Sullivan in this manner we reached Carlton on the 8th of i^ril. Here I found the men you had engaged at Red River, and who had only ifrived tho day previously. As the people at the Fort were next thing to ■torviug, I at once despatched them to the nearest point where bufl'alo were to Imi found, so that they might hunt for themselves. Until the Ttli of May I was occupied at Carlton, when I again started for Fort Pitt to meet the men I had cn;iaged, and whom I had directed to come to tlmt place with the Company's annual brigade of boats. I had already sent up lilMupply of clothing, &c. for them. «; I got to Fort I'itt on the 10th, but the unusual lowncss of the river delayed iiie brigade, so that it did not reach that place until the 15th and 18th. I then got the liorses ordered from the Company, and which were in readiness at ]Pbrt Pitt, and sent the men at once to a renclezvous to the south of the P^agle Bills, where in all ])robability they will meet with the party of lied River men. I did this, as it was impossible for them to l)c fed at Fort Pitt, as the buffalo were distant many days. Two of the party are to come on to Carlton, to guide us back, so as to avoid any chance of missing them. On the 22nd of May I left Fort Pitt, to descend the river along with the brigade, and so complete the survey of it (which I had made during the winter, from about one day above the Mountain House) as far as Carlton. Tho Instance, by the river, between the two places is about 235 miles, and it occupied us seven days. These boats draw only one and a half to two feet WattT, and are led by guides long used to navigate tlie river ; yet from the iballowness of the water, and the great intricacy of the channel, the boats were constantly running aground, keeping the men wet from morning tonight, from Iwving to jump into tlie water every time to shove them off. The river above Carlton is certainly mmavigable this season except for the wnallest craft, and even then only with great difficulty. Wliile at Fort Pitt, waiting for the brigade, 1 had an opportunity of «amining the cretaceous beds, and obtaining a few more of the characteristic fcssils. At about ninety miles above Carlton, or about forty-five miles above the elbow of the north branch, they were observed for the last time in a section of the flank of the Eagle Hills. From Mr. Swanston, the gentleman in charge at Fort Edmonton, I received a valuable meteorological register which he had kept, with a thermometer furnished by myself, continuously from the 1st of January till the 15th of May. By a comparison of barometer readings at Edmonton during the months of January and Febniary, with the similar readings at Carlton, the approximate difference of altitude between the two places is found to be 922 feet. This meteorological register, with all other meteorological and other observations, along with the journal of this trip, will l)e submitted to you as noon as completed. I have, &c., To Captain Palliseb, Commanding North James Hector, M.D. British American Explo^'ing Expedition. 282 I\vlliueb'« Exploration oj' British North America. ili il No. 2. . ■. . I . .,) .: -'w iiW/, February 14, 1859. " ' ' ,' Fort Carlton, Smtkatchewnn, June 5, I85A. Sir, — I have the honour to report my arrival at this post on the 4th of June. Owing to the absence of buffalo during the winter,' my hunters, as well as those belonging to the Fort, have had to go to great distances in order to get meat, which they obtained in such small quantities that the Hudson Bay Company's officer in charge of thit post was obliged to scatter the men with their families all over the plains in search of food. Even Dr. Hector and Mr. Sullivan were obliged to leave this post and go to Forts Pitt and Edmonton in order to lessen the consumption of meat, for which the supply hen- was quite inadequate ; fortunately, however, the winter nas been an unusually mila one, otherwise the consequences might have been very serious indeed. I am happy to say that I have been most fortunate with regard to the horses ; very few have died, and almost all the rest are in good working condition, and in far better order than when I started last year from Red River. I am now about to start with the main branch of the Expedition to the Forks of Red Deer and Medicine Rivers, and dispatch Lieut. Blakiston with a branch expedition, via Forts -Pitt and Edmonton, in order to carry on the magnetic determinations at those posts, as* well as to bring us supplies overland in carts, ordered up m boats' from Norway House last winter, to meet us at the Forks above mentioned. Lieut Blakiston, with the supplies, will join the main branch of the Expedition, and we shall proceed to an old Fort at the foot of the Rocky Mountains not far from the boundary line, thence I shall trace the boundary line to the westward, and after- wards take a course to the northward in search of a pass practicablo for horses over the Rocky Mountains within the British territory. I purpose then to send the Expedition into winter quarters at Edmonton, and proceed with one or two men across the Rocky Mountains to meet Captain Hawkins. I am in receipt of your last communication of the 29th of March, conveying the suggestion of the Royal Geographical Society, viz., " to deposit for Captain Hawkins's use at Fctrt Assineboine the records of my observations to the north of vhe 49th parallel." Fort Assineboine was situated on a tributary of the Mackenzie River which flows into the Arctic Ocean ; the post has for several years ceased to exist, and I hope to avail myself of an easier way to communicate with (Japtain Hawkins, as I learn that Mr. Dallas of the Hudson Bay (Company is crossing the mountains by way ot |»r % er IttY Itndi of |loi 'fcoi f IttI %il| ^P ;s; tea. 1*alli8Er'< Exploration of British North America. 28." line 5, 1858. |)08t un tiic piy hunters, JO to great such small large of thii. |all over the illivan wero Idmontoii in supply here er nas been it have been with regard rest are in len I started Expedition spatch Lieut. 1 Edmonton, lose posts, H!< I up m boat^ Forks above oin the main I old Fort at mndary line, d, and after- a practicable h territory. quarters at s the Rocky th of March, Society, viz., tneboine the th parallel." J Mackenzie 18 for several n easier way t Mr. Dalla:^ Ule boat encampment and Athabasca portage, and the men who rt turn with the boats down the (volumbui can take back despatches from me. I intend to adopt this means of communication in case I might subsenuently fail in finding a practicable pass for horses a^oss the Rocky Mountains within the British territory, and so fail III having a personal interview with (Captain Hawkins. I enclose letters from Lieut. Blakiston and Dr. Hector, and Mr. 0uUivan, concerning their operations during the winter of 1857-5H. iUso M. Bourgeau s botanical report, which I .:,lidll feel obliged by your submitting to Sir William Hooker. I have likewise the honour of enclosing the map of our ex- brations in 1857, containing also my route from Red River this iMorati( fcring. '■if ^ As soon as my men are all collected from the plains where they Hfetve been in search of food, and making provisions, I shall start ttle Expedition. This will probably l)e effected about the 12th of Hiis month. '? I would strongly recommend Her Majesty's Government at the termination of my Explorations to attach Lieut. Blakiston to Cant. Hawkins's staff, in order to continue across the Rocky Mountains his very valuable series of magnetic and meteorological observa- tions. \, , I have, &c., " ' . . ,. "^' ' : John Palliser, Captain, Ji'* I.'- Commanding N.W. American Exploring Expedition. Uer Majesty' s Secretary nf State ,, ,./.;> for the Colonies. #. . ,.,< ■■ - .#-. -o: .'• .':..■ ¥ f I'.l ■; \ No. 3. / ^ ■■ , , ; •" < Head, February 14, 1859. ' - . . - ' Fort Edmonton, Saskatchewan, October 7, 1858. My Lord, — I have the honour to report the safe return of myself MTid my secretary, Mr. Sullivan, to winter quarters ; talso the return of Lieut Blakiston with the branch expedition I had sent to ex- t^ore the Kutanie Pass. I have also to report the return of M. '^urgeau, whom [ also sent on a botanical tour into the Rocky lountains, with directions to follow any route where he thought e could best further the interests of botany. f I am rejoiced to say that I have C""^;:leteiy succeeded in discover- ^hig not only a pass practicable for horses, but one which, with but little expense, could be rendered available for carts also. This pass .^ill connect the prairies of the Saskatchewan with Her Majesty's IS by way ot ^Possessions on the west side of the Rooky Mountains. The pass is I 284 Palliser'* Exploration of British North America. situated precisely where I had long supposed, and this impression was communicated by me to Her Majesty's Government previous to my appointment to the command of the Expedition. I shall now endeavour to give a summary of the movements of the Expedition, since the commencement of June, 1858, up to the present period ; also of the branch expeditions of the gentlemen whom I despatched at different times for that service. Early in the month of June, I despatched Lieut. Blakiston, by Fort Pitt and Fort Edmonton, on the north branch of the Saskat- chewan River, in order to carry on the magnetic determinations at those posts, as well as to bring us supplies overland, which supplies were every day expected up in the boats. I then started with Dr. Hector, ]\I. Bourgeau, and Mr. Sullivan, for the Eagle Hills, with the intention of exploring the region of country between the north and south branches of tlie Saskatchewan or Bow River. I was then accompanied only by the men I had engaged at Red River Settlement, and with them \sent as far as the (>oss Woods, where I left them along with the gentlemen, with orders to await my return. I then started with two men and one pack-horse, and rode about 80 miles in quest of my St. Ann Brigade, whom I had sent on the prairie to the south of the Eagle Hills, in search of buffalo, the game being so scarce that I could not run the risk of keeping so large a party together. After two days' ride I found their camp ; they had not only lived well, but had been able to comply with my directions, to dry meat for us, for we had started almost without provisions. I lost not an hour in leading them to join my Red River Brigade, and on the fifth day reached the Expedition at the Lizzard Lake. Here we passed our first Sunday. All my Red River men belonged to the Church of England, consequently I read prayers for them. The St Ann men, half breeds, although of the Catholic persuasion, asked and obtained leave from me to attend Divine worship, and I conducted the lessons and half the prayers in Cree through the medium of an interpreter. I mention this circumstance to show the respectful tendency and absence of bigotry of these men in their appreciation of Divine service. Our supply of provisions was very small ; we had meat only for three days, and about three stones of flour, for a party consisting of my three companions, myself, and 28 men. I had, however, tea and sugar remaming from last year's store, which, together with what I brought from Red River Settlement, has lasted us pretty well through the season. The absence of all flour and vegetables did not inconvenience cither us or the men in the least, and I found the tea very useful in counteracting the injiu'ious effects of the swamp water, which otherwise might have produced many cases of dysentery. erica. Palliser'* Exploration of British North America. 285 3 impression lent previous lovements of 58, up to the le gentlemen Slakiston, by f the Saskat- 'minations at hich supplies ted with Dr. e Hills, with en the north iver. I was it Red River i'^oods, where to await my Tse, and rode n I had sent ch of buffalo, k of keeping found their ale to comply ;arted almost m to join my iLxpedition at of England, in men, half ind obtained )nductcd the edium of an lie respectful appreciation leat only for ty consisting however, tea sgether with ed us pretty iconvenience a very useful water, which y- The country '^'urounding the Eagle Hills and Lizzard Lake is rich, and wood abundant ; but the timber is not of a valuable description, being chiefly poplar and willow. Here I learned that the war had broken out between the Cree and Blackfoot nations, and that a large number of Indians were on their way to pay me a visit. Knowing that they would have little or no provisions to trade, and fearing their importunity, I made a few forced marches and got into the Blackfoot country. On the 22nd June we reached the 108th degree of west longi- tude, in lat. 52° n. The ground offering very bad pasture, was very inferior land, and we travelled the prairie without wood, depending on a scanty supply of buffalo dung, which we collected in order to cook our meals. After passing the Ear Hills on the 24th of June, we reached the Grande Coulee, and camped near a lake three miles long and two wide, where we at length found some wood (willow and poplar, with a few birch). We were here out of provisions, but fortunately fell in with bands of buffalo. The weather was very cold and stormy, and the rain fell in torrents We killed, however, sufficient buffalo for our present wants. Here I had the misfortune to lose one of ray finest horses while cutting up a buffalo. The horse was attached to the dead bull's horn, and took fright at one of the men coming over the brow of the hill with a load of brushwood ; he broke his halter and made his escape on the plain. Instantly four of my best mounted men started in pursuit ; the rain poured in torrents, driven by the storm against their faces. They con- tinued till dark night in vain ; the intrepid fellows, without a coat or a blanket with them, passed the night on the broad prairie, with not a shrub to shelter them from a terrific thunderstorm, and as soon as day dawned took up the horse's tracks, mounted, and recommence 1 their pursuit. All their exertions, however, were in ?aih, for, unfortunately, the horse was a very swift, powerful animal, a finer one than any in pursuit of him. In consequence of the severity of the weather, and the great hardships the men had undergone, one of them was seized with acute inflammation of the lungs, which delayed us for eight days. This time I could hai^dly consider lost, as the weather continued very wet, and the horses were much in want of rest. We were now in the Blackfoot country, and had to guard our horses strictly every night, I myself and each of the gentlemen with me keeping Match in turn, and during the daytime keeping scouts on the " look-out " in every direction. At length, on 3rd July, Antoine Shjiw was sufficiently recovered to be removed, and the Expedition continued its course to Battle River, the weather very cold and stormy, with several severe hail 28fi Palliser'.? Exploration of British North America. ! m showers, the stones strikin/ ; so hard as to cause pain to ourselves and the horses. I will not occupy your Lordship's time with minute details of our journey from this, as the prairie was neither well provided with wood nor rich in pasture, but will pass on to the period of our arrival at the Battle River. On 7th July we arrived at Battle River, a large but unnavigable tributary of the Saskatchewan, crossed the stream, and encamped in about lat. 52" n., long. 111° w. Here we found fine rich soil, well adapted for pasture and agricultural purposes. The river at this point takes a wide sweep to the south : instead therefore of continuing up the stream to the southward and then again to the northward («. e., round the bend of the river), I determined on holding my direct course, and despatched Dr. Hector with two men on horseback and one pack-horse to follow the bend of the river and meet the Expedition again, where I proposed re-crossing the stream, about 40 miles to the westward. The Doctor reached me on the 11th, the day after I arrived at my second crossing place, having laid down that portion of the river, and fully confirmed my expectations as to the fertility of the country through which it flows. Here, also, we had seen the first pines since our departure from the north branch of the Saskatchewan ; and although now no longer in large number, still there are indications of their having existed here in great abundance, and of a large size. Unfortunately the Indians have a most disastrous habit of setting the prairie on fire for the most trivial and worse than useless reasons. If a war party returns, if a hunting party starts, even if a single individual wishes to signal his camp, the invariable method resorted to i:- " firing the prairie." The result is, all their invaluable timber, such as pines and deals of every kind, perish for ever off the face of the earth, leaving nothing hereafter to spring up in their place but willows and poplars. Hence year after year willows are sacri- ficed for ever, which would bring wealth, warmth, and the means of transport to the future settler, who might till the soil and navi- gate its streams. At our second crossing place of Battle River I was visited with great ceremony by a large camp of Circees. These Indians, though differing widely from the Blackfeet, and speaking another language, are allies to the latter. They are very poor and trouble- some, and sometimes riotous and disorderly. Although the old men and chiefs were well disposed towards us, we had reason to congratulate ourselves that our party was so strong, otherwise I do not think the chiefs would have succeeded in their endeavour to keep the young men from attempts on our horses. We spent an anxious night, all keeping watch, and the next day we made them good ;c)Ou: ataoil but n( wbich jjcOn dicicov Sulliv uneerl wiird. km di ««Knpt ■ 1st Lake, tQ|!th€ Biilll the R so«th( ^rtibl( pif»x.ii dbe s( l^ual oM^ir Medic ai« ir ■ On 52' N c^.Lic negnl alMl a dnys, very Atle mk\ fiwm Stfer ■..Or •and Wn Witicl QRrts Al 7?m. Palliser'* Exploration of British North America. 287 to ourselves letails of our •ovided with eriod of our unnavigable id encamped ine rich soil, The river at therefore of again to the jtermined on with two men of the river 5-crossing the r reached me rossing place, confirmed my R'hich it flows, jparture from now no longer laving existed ortunately the prairie on fire is. If a war gle individual resorted to i.< uable timber, sr off the face in their place lows are safc-i- nd the meaib soil and navi- is visited with hese Indians, aking another r and trouble- lough the old had reason to g, otherwise I eir endeavour We spent an ive made them a>Jew presents, exchanged a few tired horses, and parted on very good terms. (oOur course to the westward from Battle River continued through atioil of fine vegetable mould two feet deep upon a substratum of sdiid. This portion of country was no doubt formerly forest lands, but now converted into prairie by the frequent occurrence of fires ivllich overrun the country. j)(On the 14th July, when nearly out of provisions, buffalo were 4tecovered to our south at a great distance. I despatched Mr. Sullivan with the hunters, followed by three carts, to hunt, being uncertain as to whether v/e should again find buffialo to the west- Wfird. On the return of the carts, I gave orders to remain here a Iwv days, to slice and dry provisions for at least ten days' con- sumption. • I started from this encampment in a w.N.w. direction to the Bull Liake, and left orders that the Expedition should go on their course tOi the Red Deer River, where I would again join them. Tlie Bull Lake is nine miles long and seven broad, and is connected to the Red Deer River by an insignificant stream issuing from the aofithern extremity of the lake. I think this lake would be a de- gireble place for a settlement : the soil is good, and the lake is in pe^jximity to the Red Deer River, a large navigable tributary of tiie south branch of the Saskatchewan. There is, however, no vjfiluable timber at the lake itself, but ample quantity could be opined both at the Red Deer River and its tributary, the Medicine River, where the white spruce and rough barked poplar fU^ in abundance. i On July 24th we camped on the edge of the woods, in lat. 51° 52' N., long. 114° 10' w. I determined there to await the arrival crf.Lieut. Blakiston, who was to join us after having gone by the negular cart track, via Edmonton, in charge of ammunition, flour, attd a few articles for Indian presents. We waited three or four days, and with difficulty supported ourselves on deer, which were very scarce, as the Assineboines had hunted there ail the spring. At length, on the 29th, I directed Dr. Hector to proceed to the fotks of Medicine and Red Deer rivers, and bury a letter for Lieut. Blakiston, informing him that we were obliged to move onward ^m scarcity of provisions, and acquainting him how he was to steer his course in order to fall on our trail. On July 30th we again broke up camp; and, as I intended to gfiind a part of the Expedition by the same route to winter quarters fr^m the Rocky Mountains, I there made a " cache " of all the articles that we could possibly dispense with, in order to lighten tite Expedition as much as possible, and enable us to abandon the earts for a time, hide them, and proceed with pack-horses. All these arrangements being completed, we started at 8'30 i ?^ ii:r 288 Palliser'« Exploration of British North America. A.M. ; and as we were camped at 1 o'clock for dinner, Lieut. Blakistoa with his carts and horses, overtook us. He brought us the news that the boats had not arrived, and he was obliged to leave with- out the stores ; but he succeeded in bringing me some ammunition from Edmonton, which after all was the only thing of vital im. portance. We were now without provisions, but still continued our course. In the evening, however, two of my scouts came into camp, and reported a large band of buffalo about twelve miles to s.E. The next morning we started before sunrise, and travelled till 9 o'clock, when we came within hearing distance of the tramping of the animals. Here we camped, saddled the runners, and started after our game; we had an admirable run, and killed sixteen. All hands then went to work to prepare and dry meat for the period that we should travel among the Rocky Mountains ; because I was aware that, once we entered that range, we should have little or no chance of finding anything to eat. We all worked hard slicing and drying, made our provisions, and were ready to start on the 4 th August. As I had kmple time before the close of this season to seek for the pass, the existence and place of which I was in search of, 1 determined to ride to the boundary line and examine the country from the mountains eastward, and took with me Mr. Sullivan. I left Dr. Hector and Lieut. Blakiston, and M. Bourgeau, to proceed to the Old Bow Fort, or Chesterfield House, with the main body of the Expedition, under charge of Dr. Hector, with orders that, as soon as they had arrived at the site of the Old Fort, he should place the carte in " cache," despatch the gentlemen on their different missions, proceed upon his own, and direct the remainder to await my secretary's return from the boundary line: M. Bourgeau to enter the mountains and proceed with three men and seven horses on a botanical exploration, wherever he thought best ; Dr. Hector with another party, to go on a geological tour ; Lieut. Blakiston to proceed through the mountains by the two known Kutanie passes, returning by the southern one. I started at noon from our camp, known as Slaughter Camp, lat. 51° 20' N., long. 113° 45' w., and kept on a southern course along the prairie. We only found salt lakes ; and though we rode till 1 1 P.M., we camped without fire or water, but next morning reached the Lower Saskatchewan or Bow River, in lat. 50° 55' N. We crossed the river after breakfast, found it very deep, our horses as well as ourselves being obliged to swim. The country we passed over on the north side of the river has a wretched soil ; but when on the south side, the appearance and soil changed greatly for the better. We crossed numerous well-wooded rivers, — many of them containing valuable timber, such as pines, spruce, &c., — the valleys lenca. 8ut. Blakiston, us the new* ;o leave with- e ammunition of vital im. )d our course o camp, and to S.E. The till 9 o'clock, nping of the started after sixteen. All or the period wcause I was lave little or I hard slicing start on the n to seek for search of, I 5 the country Sullivan. I Jourgeau, to vith the main , with orders Old Fort, he smen on their le remainder y line: M. iree men and tiought best ; tour; Lieut, two known ;r Camp, lat. course along we rode till Jing reached )5' N. We ur horses as y we passed i ; but when ;atly for the any of them -the valleys Palltser's Exploration of British North America. 2S0 aiid neighbouring soil of which were rich and desirable for culti- vation ; but whenever we struck out on the broad prairie, we generally found the soil worthless, except here and there in small 8#amps. Although my journey to the western extremity of the boundary line was necessarily a rapid one, I determined on a visit ^ the " Cypress Hills." I was anxious to see this part of the ckjtintry, in consequence of having heard many reports of its wonderful timber and fine rich soil. I found great tracts of splenflid timber wasted by fire ; there still remain, however, many valuable pines, and the land is rich, and capable of producing oeveral grain crops in succession without manure. On August 8th we arrived at the 49th parallel, the prairie atretching to the east, utterly devoid of wood save in the valley of the Great Belly River. The locus of 49th parallel is very strongly marked by a high prominent mountain, called the Chief Mountain, in full view of which the Indians meet in the autumn, and perform some characteristic dances. I only remained one day, which I devoted to riding in an easterly direction, and climbing elevations to obtain an /tensive view of the country to the east, but saw nothing but p rie of the poorest kind, and destitute of timber. The next day I arrived late in camp, and we started for the Old Bow Fort, where we arrived on 14th August. The site of the Old Bow Fort is in lat 5r 9' n., long. 115^ 4' W., at the foot of the Rocky Mountains. The chimneys of the place arc still standing. The Hudson Bay Company have long abandoned the post, many of their servants having lost their livens m its defence. Although the timber here, consisting of fine pruscho, Banksian pine, spruce and red pine, is valuable, the soil is scanty, the river valley being occupied by immense deposits of shingle. On my arrival at the Bow Fort I found my hunters waiting for me. Tliey had been out in every direction, but could not fall in with buffalo ; they had also found elk and deer very scarce. In addition to this, they were hi great fear of the Blackfeet and Blood Indians, whose return from the south-east would soon be daily expected. I was therefore obliged to alter my plans, and desire them only to await the arrival of M. Bourgeau, and afterwards to proceed to the forks of Red Deer and Medicine Rivers and there to await the return of Mr. Sullivan, whom I was to send in charge of my branch expedition as soon as I had searched for my pass back from the mountains, I myself proposing to proceed westward to meet Captain Hawkins and visit Vancouver. I regret, however, that a letter from Lieut. Blakiston was handed to me by one of my men, acquainting me that "his position in Her Majesty's service would not allow of his considering himself in any way connected with the Exploring Expedition under my command." This step of Lieut. Blakistcm deranged my plans a little, and is VOL. XXX. u 290 Palliseb'* Exploration of British North America. partly the reason why I have determined on wintering on this side of the mountains. On the 18th of August I started to seek for the new pass across the Rocky Mountains, proceeding up the north side of the south branch of the Saskatchewan or Bow River, passing the mouth of Kananaski River. Five miles higher up we crossed the Bow River and entered a ravine. We fell upon Kananaski River and travelled up it in a south-westerly direction, and the following day we reached Kananaski Prairie, known to the Indians as the place *' where Kananaski was stunned, but not killed." On the 21st we passed two lakes about two miles long and one wide. We con- tinued our course, winding through this gorge in the mountains among cliffs of a tremendous height, yet our onward progress was not impeded by obstacles of any consequence ; the only diffi- culty we experienced was occasioned by quantities of fallen timber caused by fires. I observed that many, indeed most of these tremendous fires are caused by lightning, and in one or two E laces traced their progress where the foot of man could never ave trod. On the 22nd of August we reached the height of land between the waters of Kananaski River and a new river, a tributary of the Kutanie River. We remained here for the rest of the day, occupied with observations. Our height above the Bow Fort was now 1 ,885 feet, or above the sea 5,985 feet. Next morning we commenced our descent, and for the first time we were obliged to get off and walk, leading our horses down a precipitous slope of 960 feet over loose angular fragments of rock. This portion over, our route continued for several days through dense masses of fallen timber, destroyed by fire, where our progress was very slow, not owing to any difficulty of the mountains, but on account of the fallen timber, which we had first to climb over and then to chop through to enable the horses to step or jump over it. We continued at this work from daybreak till night, and even by moonlight, and at length reached the Columbia Portage on the 27 th of August. Here I devoted a day to ascending some heights in search of a view of the Columbia River. After climbing several mountains in vain, I at last was astonished to find myself right upon the bank of the lake from which the Columbia rises, at a height of about 2,300 feet over the surface. Climbing a high tree in order to overlook the woods which intercepted ray view, I saw both the Columbia akes, the Columbia rising out of the southern, flowing into the northern one, out of which it bends to the westward previous to i king its northern course to the boat encampment The most southerly of these lakes is in lat. 50° 7' N., long. 115° 50' w. On the 30th of August we arrived in lat. 49° 3G' n., long. 115° 37' w. on the Kutanie River, where we found a camp of Kutanie Palliser** Exploration of British North America. 291 Indians. These are the most wretched-looking fellows I ever met ; men, women, and children, all living on berries, the men naked, and the women nearly so : yet, strange to say, although these people were starving, and destitute of clothes and ammunition, they pos- sess a wonderful number of horses, and those very superior to the Indian horses on the east of the Mountains. Yet I had considerable difficulty in training horses for the Expedition, and those I did succeed in training were not from among their best horses, neither could I obtain more than one or two horses for mere trade, although they were most anxious to exchange horses, even greatly to their own disadvantage. I had eleven horses with me. Most of them were in wretched condition, and many of them worn-out, unserviceable animals, yet these were eagerly exchanged and good ones given in their stead, particularly when a little present of two plugs of tobacco and fifteen balls and powder were advanced. Indeed, only for my having effected these exchanges of horses, I hardly think I should have succeeded in bringing back all the horses I had started with from the Old Bow Fort, some of which had also been with me on my previous rapid trip to the boundary line. I learned from the Kutanies that there was a very plain, easy road to Fort Colville, distant eight days from their camp ; but as they had quarrelled with the Flat Heads, not one would volunteer to come with me as guide. However, that circumstance would not have deterred me from proceeding westward to meet Captain Hawkins and visiting Vancouver, had I known what Lieut. Blakiston's intentions were, and, indeed, it was not until after his return to Edmonton that he could communicate them to me. I merely state them without note or comment. On September 6th I started to re-cross the mountains by the Kutanie Pass, and was surprised to find that pass also within the British territory. We entered it in lat 49° 11' N., long. 115° 21' w. in the valley of the Elk River, and came out on the east side of the mountains in lat. 49° 32' N., long. 114° 35' w. in the valley of Little Belly River. It is one frequently used, but not the general pass of the Kutanie Indians, who have a preferable one in the American territory. On September 7th we p.'^ssed the height of land, a formidable ascent, where we had to walk and lead the horses for two hours. This is the height of land which constitutes the watershed. We encamped for the night in a small prairie, after making a con- siderable descent. On the 8th of September our course continued through woods and swamps, for about 15 miles, till we arrived at another ascent; this was also a severe ascent, though not so formidable as that of the day previous; we reached its summit u 2 # v \ 292 Palliseii'5 Exploration of British North America. about four o'clock, through a severe snowstorm, the snow falling so fast as to make me very apprehensive of losing the track. We descended that evening, and camped on the eastern side, and next day arrived at the eastern extremity of the pass. I regret that I cannot give the altitudes on this pass, as our barometer was broken by one of the horses. It is, however, far from being so favourable as the more northern one by which I entered on Kananaski River, which has but one obstacle in height of land to overcome, and where the whole line of route is free from swamps and marshes. I will not take up your Lordship's time with an account of our journey from the Kutauie Pass to Edmonton, as I have given a description of the greater part of the country already. I have great pleasure in reporting the arrival of Dr. Hector while I have been writing this letter. I have been very anxious about him, knowing how badly oft' he must have been for provisions. lie has had a very severe journey, and much trouble in finding game enough to support himself and party. lie has amassed a large stock of information in the mountains, geogi'aphical as well as geological, lie is very anxious to penetrate farther across to the west, but unfortunately my instructions prevent me from ])ermitting him to do so, however desirable I might consider such a journey to be. In addition to being an accomplished naturalist, Dr. Hector is the most accurate map})er of original country I have ever seen, and is now an ex})erienced traveller. By long and severe journeys with dogs and snow shoes last winter, in connexion with his hard trip this autumn, he has laid down tiie whole nortii branch of the Saskatchewan, and the south bi'anch from where we met it to the glaciers of its source ; and there is no department of the Expedition in which he is not only connjetent, but willing to assist. I have the honour of enclosing Dr. Hector's report of his ex- plorations, and there are two facts connected witli that portion of country to which I wish particularly to draw your attention. 1st. — Dr. Hector followed the Bow River right up to the main watershed of the continent, then followed it until he reached a transverse waterparting, which divides the waters of the Columbia and those of the north Saskatchewan on the one hand, from those of the Kutauie and sontli branch of the Saskatclu;wan (m the other. There he found the facilities for crossing the moimt^iins so great as to leave little doubt in his mind of the practicability of con- structing even a railroad connecting the plains of the Saskatchewan with the opposite side of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains. 2nd. — Dr. Hector informs me that the water-line of the mountains is not identical with their geological axis ; this axis he was unable to reach, and had only opportunity of examining what are called flanking ranges: therefore the most im})oitant geological results Palliser'* Exploration of Bntish North America, 293 relating to the Rocky Mountains of North America remain as yet unascertained, because, in conformity with my instructions, I was oblijred to order Dr. Hector not to advance farther than the axis of the watershed of these mountains ; and I take this opportunity of recommending Her Majesty's Government to alter that part of my instructions, and direct my movements in the following maimer : — That as soon as my exj)lorations are completed on the caat side of the mountains (for now there remain 6° of longitude in tlie country of the boundary line), I should send Dr. Hector to complete his exploration, and then meet me at Fort Colville, whence we could return home to England by Panama, and the British West Indian mail steamer from Chagres, a far cheaper route than recrossing the whole continent of North America. Besides this, it will enable me to diepoc-e of all my horses to great advantage, and even to make money to credit side of the Exj)edition in the account for horses. The Hudson Buy Company are very short of horses : they allow me 20/. each for 25 horses now, and have promised to purchase all the others I can sj)are next year. I have now 53 horses, almost all of which are sure to outlive the winter ; I have lost but three or four this year, and may lose five this winter : however, I have not neglected any precaution in my power ; 1 have cut and stacked hay for them, and am constructing a siielter for those that may require it after Christmas. As to my expenditure this year, it is not easy to give an exact statement, tis the accounts are all priced at La Chine, and I am too far distant to go down and settle them, as I did last year. Tliey will, however, hai'dly exceed 2,000/. by more than I can counterbalance by the sale of the horses. The expenses of next season will exceed 1,500/. if anything at all is to be done. But if Her Majesty's Government are really apprehensive of the grant of 1,500/. being overdrawn, I have but one course to pursue, that of abandoning the completion of the boundary line, and all discoveries in the Rocky Mountiiins, and returning home in the beginning of the season. It is quite true that my expenses for this financial year will not have been so great as those for the financial year 1857-8 ; but any one acquainted with this expensive country will inform Her Majesty's Government that 1,500/. is hardly sufficient to cover a season's explorations, particularly when the salaries and home journey expenses are to be deducted from it. I feel greatly honoured by the confidence Her Majesty's Government have hitherto placed in me ; and should Her Majesty's Government consider the miportance of ascertaining the practica- bility of a railroad across the Rocky Mountains, as well as a more extended acquaintance with the geological structure of those mountains themselves, worth the further sacrifice of a few hundred pounds, I would propose that the Government grant me the whole ■: It ,1' if 294 Palliser'* Exploration of British North America. of the 1,500/. for expenses in this country alone for the next season, independent of salaries and the homeward travelling expenses, the former of which will amount to 570/., and the latter, I hardly think, will exceed an equal sum, if I am allowed to adopt the route I propose as most conducive to the interests of science as well as the purposes of economy. The only objection that can be urged to this proposition is, that Captain Hawkins and his party have been sent to the west side of the mountains. But their work, as far as I understand, will confine them to the neighbourhood of the 49th parallel, and they will not have the same facilities for accomplishing those objects as I shall, st^irting from the eastward in a higher latitude, where the country is safe and a small party can travel, nor could they effect them as rapidly and economically as I could. My plan is to send Dr. Hector to pursue his discovered route, which my instructions compelled him to abandon, while I and my secretary, Mr. Sullivan, will follow a different line of traverse to the Pacific, so as to ascertain as much as possible of the nahire of the country lying between the mountains and the sea north of the 51st parallel. M. Bourgeau, who has made a magnificent collection of Alpine flants during his tour in the mountains, will return to London, via 'embina and St. Paul's, in order to fulfil his botanical engagements for 18fiO, I have to express mv thanks to him for his most unceasing exertions, not only in his botanical labours, but for his zeal and care as manager of the provisions and stores of the Expedition, and his anxiety to assist me in every possible way. 1 have also to express my satisfaction with my secretary, Mr. Sullivan, not only for his zeal and assiduity in carrying on the astronomical observations, but for his assistance and exertions for the interests of the Expedition, particularly with regard to the horses ; likewise for his care and regularity with the accounts, which, in a country where everything is conducted on a system of " barter," are of a very complicated nature. I have the honour to enclose two maps. The first contains the routes of the whole Expedition, together with those of the branch parties. The other is a rough enlargement of a portion of this, in order to display with greater clearness our different routes of exploration while in the mountains. The map is not final as regards the mountains, as Dr. Hector's longitudes are by account, and may require correction ; the remainder, however, is completed, and I beg it may be preserved, as we have no time to make a copy. We have barely returned from the plains into Fort Edmonton in time to receive and answer our letters by the "fall boats," which start again immediately after they are unloaded, to anticipate the setting of the ice. Our time, therefore, is very short; an letter, yet contained FortE A little J grind it cattle cot ever, I occupied The I have ma Settleme the Hud goods, a fiving tl Ixpediti irapossib bv the V Expediti I mus portion me as f( "Yoi to ascer Rocky '. known i In a informa valuelei norther River) search the pr( Goverr directe posed t comma with tl portioi the soi explor of my The mount mount accoui le r* I le in I h Palliser** Exploratim of British North America. 295 short; and although I have troubled your Lordship with a long letter, yet I have been obliged to omit a great deal of information contained in the journal. Fort Edmonton is the largest trading post in the Saskatchewan. A little agriculture is carried on ; they grow tolerable wheat, and grind it in a windmill The potatoes are excellent, and horned cattle continue out the whole wmter, and still are thriving. How- ever, I cannot observe much as yet; my whole time nas been occupied with the men's accounts and the correspondence. The Red River men return to Carlton by tlie boats, where I have made arrangements for their conveyance to Red River Settlement, and give them the balance of their pay in orders on the Hudson Bay Company. The Lake St. Ann men are paid in goods, as money is not known in this country, and I am now giving them value for their wages in goods ordered by me for the Expedition, charging them the Company's prices. It would be impossible to send an account down now, but I will forward one W the winter express, along with the whole corrected map of the Expedition, and the observations. I must now beg leave to draw your Lordship's attention to that portion of my original instructions of March 31, 1857, which directs me as follows : — " You will endeavour from the best information you can collect to ascertain whether one or more practicable passes exist over the Rocky Mountains within the British territory, and south of that known to exist between Mount Brown and Mount Hooker." In accordance with these instructions, I first obtained the best information I could collect, which proved so vague as to be utterly valueless. I then directed Dr. Hector to undertake the more northern search {i.e., between the two branches of the Saskatchewan River) ; I myself, accompanied by Mr. Sullivan, undertook the search from tiie south branch of the Saskatchewan to the pass of the probable existence of which I had informed Her Majesty's Government before receiving the command of the Expedition. I directed Lieut. Blakiston to undertake the Kutanie rasses sup- posed to be in American territory. Lieut. Blakiston threw up his command in order to carry out that object independent of me ; but with the assistance of Mr. Sullivan, 1 was also able to effect that portion of what was to have been his duty myself. This comprised the southernmost pass within the British territory. Lieut Blakiston's exploration may perhaps have a value hereafter as a corroboration of my own. The fact is that the knowledge the Indians possess of the mountains is very small ; even among those said to " know the mountains ' their knowledge is very limited indeed. This is easily accounted for by the scarcity of tlie game, which offers no induce- I ■'!) V X I y 2iJU Palliseu'* Exploration of British North America. nicnt to the Indians even to go thera I fear if Dr. Hector leaves this country without completing his pass, much difticulty might arise hereafter in finding the exact point of the western exit of the valley, as it is very small, and the woods dense, and no one could find it as the Doctor himself. Besides, the most unfavourable result would even be desirable in that case, as it would set the question of the possibility of the easy construction of a railway across the Kocky Mountains for ever at rest 1 will now enumerate the several passes which have been diocovered and laid down. 1st. From south branch Saskatchewan to Kutanie River : Two, i.e.^ Kananaski Pass and Vermilion Pass. 2 lid. From Kutanie River to Columbia : Two, i.e., the Lake Pass and Heaver Foot Pas-s. 3rd. From south branch Saskatchewan to north branch : One, i.e.y the Little Fork Pass. 4th. From south branch Saskatchewan to Columbia : One, i.b.t the Kicking Horse Pass. In addition to these discovered passes, the Northern Kutanie ]'a.-3 has been laid down, and found to be entirely within the Urltii-jh territory, and I have named this the Ilritish Kutanie Pass. . With regard to the expressed wish of Her Majesty's Government that I should communicate with Captiiin Hawkins, I beg to state that I shall endeavour to find an opportunity of doing so. In conclusion, 1 have to acknowledge the receipt of your Lord- shij)'s cimrteous expressions on the subject of my letter of 18lh March, 1858. 1 have also to acknowledge the receipt of the abstract account for the financial year 1857-58. I have, I'tc, John Palliser, Capt., • Cumniaiiding N. Britiali Amciic;iii Exjiloriug Exiiwliliou. The /li'jhl lion. Loiii) H'VAiihJiY, M.F., arty at this place on 7tli current, hohv^ exactly eitfht weeks from the time of our separa- tion I'rom the reniaiudor of the Expedition. After your deiiarture to the houudary line on August 3, according to your instructions 1 conducted the Expedition without loss of time to the site of the Old r,uw Fort, and arrived there on the afternoon of the 7th. On the 5th we began to ascend considerably, and saw the last of the real jtlains. From tliis ]iouit our way lay over a succession of iiarallel ranges of hill, wooded in some ]iarts to their sunmiits, but not rising to more than 800 or 1000 feet alx)vc the plain. On tlie morning of the 7th we fust struck the south branch of the Saskatchewan at the mouth of Dead Man Kiver, luid iiom this point we Palliseu's Exploration oj Britis/i North America. 207 followed it up until wc reached the Old Fort on the Htimo day. Its site Ih marked only by a ;^rouit of mud and stono chimneyH, the remainder of tlie fort hiiviui^ Ixjen constnieted of timber, all of which 1ms long nyo iRien rcmovid and used by the Indians as firewood. A small stream juim; the river from the west at this j)laco, and the main stream itself makes a Ixnd from a north to an easterly course. Our camp was pitched within three miles of the mountains, which rose behind as ranj;esof bald, inaccessible clifls to the heiyht of from 3,0(J0 to 4,000 feet above the eye. We fortunately met with a large camp of Assineboinos at this place, from whom I traded pack saddles and other articles which were required for our mountain work. In conjunction with Lieut. Blakiston, observations were made on the tumiKjrature of boiling water, to determine the altitude of the place, and to find the errors of our aneroids. The corrected mean readin-is for the time of om- stay comjjared with the mean for Carlton showed the altitude above that place to be 2,225 feet, or above the sea 4,100 feet. Our aneroids, and also the sympiesometer for great altitudes, I am <;lad to say, still gave a very close ajjproximation to true readings, notwithstanding the great increase of elevation. On llth August M. Uourgeau and I started and cam[)ed together about 11 miles up the valley of Bow Uiver, on the banks of a lake formed by a dilatation of the river in consequence of the valley being barrod by immense dei»osits of rounded shingle. Our road was rather a bad one, on account of the fallen tindjcr which imiiedod our path, the valley not having been frequented by the Indians for many years. This first j)ortion of the valley cuts through five parallel ranges of mountains at right angles to their axes. These arc comiwsed of beds of crystalline and compact fossiliferous limestone (most likely of carboniferous age) dipping at 30*^ to W.S.W., but having several obscure plications. Two well-marke«l peaks occur on either side of the valley, which M. Bourgeau named "Urotto" and " rigoon " peaks. After passing the former of these, the following morning (having taken leave of M. Bourgeau, who remained to examine this mountain) I 'ji.tcred a wide trough-like valley, running to s.s.e., through which I contrixoil to follow up Bow Uiver in the opiwsite direction for three days. This trough continues to run through the mountains, beyond the points where the river leaves and enters it, the latter being between ''Cascade" and '' Bundle " Mountains. "Cascade" Mount, which is known to the Indians as the " jdace where the water falls," rises as a series of precipices to the height of 4,521 feet above a small level plain at its base, anil is so abrupt that its summit is in view at a horizontal distance of 2,200 yards. It may be taken as a ty]ie of the mountains in this ])ortion of the chain, all being equally precipitous and inaccessible. Bounding the valley to the soutli is the " Windy" Mount of M. Bourgeau, wliich he has made the subject of an elaborate botanical examination. From the Cascade Mount the river valley again changes its direction, passing at right angles to the chain so as to cross the " Saw-back " range, which are com[)osc!(l of the same strata as before, but now almost vertical, having only a slight inclination to w.s.w. After following up the valley which then was reached, to n.w. for three days, on the 18th I arrived at " Castle " Mount, opposite the entrance to the " Vermilion" Pass. I had already passed three small tributaries, by following up either of which, the height of land can be crossed to the Kutanie River, but judging from Indian report, none of these were so promising as this one, by which I now resolved to cross the water-line of the mountains. The mountains now began to wear a diflcrent asiioct, more massive, and evidently much loftier. They are composed of white and pink quartzose simd- !' I 298 Palliseu'* Exploration of British North America. stone, almost passing into a quartzitc in some parts, and in others into a fine conglomerate. Their minute description, as well as other geological points, will, however, form the subject of a more special rejiort. Having devoted a day to the examination of Castle Mount, and to prepare the (lush of a moose we had killed, on the 20th I crossed Bow lliver, witliout jswimming the horses and unloading their jwicks ; and, after a six hours' marsh through thick wootls, reached the height of land the same afternoon. By careful liarometric readings I found the rise from the river to he 539 feet ; and I consider the rise of the river, to where I crossed it from the Old Bo\. Fort camp, to be 300 feet, thus giving for the height of land 940 feet, The small stream along which we had ascended here endc in two small lakes, the water of which is beautifully clear ; and 200 yards farther on, and at 17 feet above the level of the upi)er lake, wo came on a rapid turbid stream, flowing to the 8.W., which was the head of the Vermilion lliver, the principal branch of the Kutauie lliver. The height of land is in 51° 8' 30" N., longitude by account 116° 35' w. Tt is in a wide valley, betv/een outlying shoulders of two snow-clad mountains, which I named after Mr. Bull and Colonel Lefroy, the latter being to the west. The ascent to the watershed from the Saskatchewan is hardly perceptible to the traveller, who is prepared for a tremendous climb by which to reach the dividing ridge of the Rocky Mountains, and no labour would be required, except that of hewinj;; timber to construct an easy roatl for carts, by which it might be attained. The three following days were occupied in tne descent of Vermilion River, which, after flowing to s.w. by w. for nine miles, suddenly changes its course to 8.E. for 18 miles, when it again changes to s,, escaping imo a wide valley to join a much smaller stream, which is the Kutanie lUver. In its course of atout 40 miles it descends 1,227 feet, so that at its junction with the main stream it is 383 feet below the Old Fort. It becomes of considerable size a very short way from its source, as it receives large tributaries from glaciers which occupy the valleys of Mounts Lefroy, Ball, and Gootlsir. The valley through which it flows is contracted only at one point, " The Gorge," near its lower part, where two lofty mountains seem to close in on the stream, without, however, in reality causing aiiy great difficulty in passing alcng its base. A road for carts down the valley of Vermilion River, from the height of land to the Kutanie River, could be cleared without diniculty ; for, su\jposing the road to follow a straight line along the river, and the descent to be uniform, wliich it aimost is, the hicline would only be 40 feet in a mile, or 1 in 135. The absence of any abrupt steps, cither in the ascent or descent, together with the small altitude to be passed over, form very fiivourable ix)ints in the consideration of tliis pass as a line of route. There is some confusion as to which is called the Vermilion and which the Kutanie lliver, in the accounts given by Indians, so I have thought it iK'ttor to confine the former name to the large stream by which I descended, and consider the bmaller stream into which it flows as the Kutanie lliver. This accords better with the nature of the valleys, as the Kutanie lliver, although ji'i insignificant stream Iwfore receiving the Vermilion River, flows 8.E. through a magnificent valley from three to five miles in breadth. The forks of Xutanie and Vermilion River are in lat. 50° 50' N., long, by aero8i)ect of procuring game on tiie west side of the watershed, and wo were now beginning to be pinched for provisions. Ascending the Kutanie llivcr, therefore, on the 27th, I reached the height of land which divides it from one of tlie principal tributaries of the Columbia IJiver, called lieaver Foot lliver. The watershed is in a large morass, with several lakes occupying the bottom of a deep wide valley, common to the two streams, although flowing in opposite directions. The line of watershed is so little marked that it is imi)08s:blo to cross even on foot between the two streams without going in water. On either side of it the stream is dilated into wide shallow lakes, the surfaces of which were crowded with the gaudy flower of the Nuphar lutca. The altitude of this watershed i considered to be 3,834 feet above the sea, or 266 feet below the Old Fort. It is on the .51st parallel of latitude, in longitude 117° 10' w. On the north side of the valley are Mount Goodsir and Pyramid Mountain, and on the south is the Brisco range, which, although of no great elevation (about 2,000 feet above tJie eye), nm, as an unbroken wall, to s.s.e. My Indian declared that the river wo had now struck was the head of the north branch of the Saskatehewan, and wished to foUov*' it down ; but if my barometer and sympiesometer were acting with any approach to accuracy, we were now about on a level with what I had found to be the olevation of the Mountain House during last winter, so that this could not be the case. In addition, the change in the vegetation, especially the occurrence of cedar, coavinced nje that we were really on a branch of the Columbia. 1 accordingly only followed it for two days, and on the 29th reach(«l the mouth of a large tributary, to N.w. This river is much larger than the Vermilion River, and about four times the size of the stream into which it flows, being alK)ut etjual to the south branch at the point where we left it. Here I received a severe kick in the chest from my hoi-se, rendering mo senseless, and disabling me for some time. My recovery might have been nuich more tedious than it was, but for the fact tnat we were now starving, and I found it absolutely necessary to push on after two days. Where it receives IJeaver Foot lliver, Kicking Horse llivcr bends back on itself, including an angle of only 20°, and after passing over a fine fall of about 40 feet flows on to n.w. The mouth of Beaver Foot River is about 318 ff ot below the height of land where we first stnick it. As I was quite unable to move, I sent my interpreter, Peter Erasmus, to ascend Mount Hunter, which is included in the angle of Kicking Horse River. He ascended for 3,496 feet, and obtained a view, to the west, of snow-clad peaks as far as the eye can reach. Over the tops of Brisco's range, and all to the left of 8.W., he could jierceive no mountains ; so that if that iwrtion of country is occupied by any, they must be of very inferior altitude. It was my intention to have crossed Brisco range on foot, but my unfortunate accident quite unfitted me for the task. The angle of Kicking Horse River is in lat. 51° 10' n., long. 117° 26' w. While traversing this valley, since coming on the Kutauie River, we have had no trail to follow, and it did not seem to have Txjen frecjuented by Indiana for many ^ears. This makes the absence of game all the more extraordinary. The only animal which seemed to occur at all was the jKintlicr. The Indian saw one, and in the evenings we heard them calling, as they skirted round our camp, attracted by the scent. SOO Palliseu'a* Exploration of British North America. The bottom of the valley is occupied by so much morass, that we were obli;j;ed to keep aloug the slope, although tlr fallen timber rendered it very tedious work, and severe for our poor horses, that now had their legs covered by cuts and bruises. Tiie timber along Beaver Foot River is mostly young, but there are the remains of what hall been a noble growth of forests, consisting of cedar, iiincs, and spruce, among the latter of which is the magniiicent prusche, which sometimes reaches four yards in circumference. I also saw a few young maples (Xegundo fraso). Berries of many kinds were very abundant ; and, indeed, had it not been for these, we should have suft'ered much from hunger. On 31st August we struck up the valley of Kicking Horse lliver, travelling as fast as we could g(!t our jaded l.orscs to go, and as I could bear the motion, and on the 2nd Sept, reached the height of land. In doing so we ascended 2,021 feet. Unlike the Vermilion Biver, t!;e Kicking Horse Biver, although rajnd, descends more by a succession of fulls than by a gradual slope. Just lielore we attained the height of land, we ascended more than 1,000 feet iu about a mile, down \\hich the stream leaps by a succession of cascades. This height of land is 5,120 feet above the sea, and is in lat, .51'^ 24' K., long. 117'^ 20' w. The waterline is in a flat valley, clothed with fine open forests of s])ruce, lying between Mount Vaux and the eastern end of the Waputteehk Mountains. Here, to our great joy, we found tracks of game again. On the morning of the 3rd we followed down a small stream over a wooded jiliuu for about six. miles, and only descended about 50 feet from the height of laud, wliea we came to a large rjver, flowing to s.K., which the Indian at once recognized as the south branch, from which we had been absent alnjut two weeks. The same afternoon he killed a moose, which relieved us from want, and wo also fell in with a band of Assineboines, who had just come over by a direct pass from the i.,>ich branch to this place. Wo had several days of severe weather at this time ; a great deal of snow with thunderstorms. 1 delayed here with the Indians on account of our horses recpiiring rest, and also to get them to dry our moose-meat properly for us, as we lost more than half of the last from its not being well prejiared. On 8th September 1 started to ascend the south branch, not following the jiass by which the Indians had come, and which they described as very easy, tint to endeavour to pass from its head waters to those of (he west branch. All the mountains on both sides of us were now snow-clad ; those on the south side having their valleys occupied by glaciers, some of great size. In two days we reached the height of land by a gradual ascent. Here the south branch issues from a lake about four miles long, the upper end of which is fed ^ ' a glacier which descends iVom a magnificent mer de 1 is formed by the damming up of a narrow valley between Moua* ' .lid Mount Lyell. The ujvjjor part of this valley is occupied by glaciers communicating with immense fields of ice which cover the mountains all round it. The foot of the glacier is about 4,820 feet above the sea. It is easy of ascent, as it terminates by a ronnded slo|)e, to reach which, from the floor of the valley, I had only to Hcrambh; over the series of moraines which lie in front of it. That portion lying within the valley is about five miles long and throe wide ; it is (iOO feet deei) at its lower part, but its surface at the iipper end is l,f)(!0 above the valley at its base. It is fed by a narrow spout-like glacier irom the mer de ijhice alK>ve. I ascended Sullivan Peak to the north of it, having an altitude of 7,858 feet, and obtained a splendid view of the immense mass of ice which envelojies the mountains to the south and west, obliterating all their valleys. The stream which issues from tiie Glacier Lake is nuich larger than either the main fork or the little fork. The former of these two I ascended for sonu) distance, and saw that it took its rise in the glaciers of a mountain to s.s.e. Up this river there \^ s.'ij to bo a pass direct tpers in the time of the North-West (Jompany, as far as I could make otit fro. ; ' o accounts of the Indians. Mount Forbes, which lies between the Ghu": : ^V?^ . ad the great fork of the north branch, I found to have an altitiule ot uf *ho north branch as it sweeps round the base of Moimt Murchison, on the Itith 1 reached the Kutaine plain, where the valley becoiues nuich expanded, and is occupied by fine level plain, free from wood, like true prairie. This spot is lamous among the Indians for the abundance of game, but it had been well imuted during the summer, so that there was now none left. Bufl'alo at one time were very numerous here, and their bones and dung showed that this must have been not many years ago. I renuiined here a few days to examine the mountains which overlook the valley. One to the west of the plain I ascended, and found to be 8,913 feet above the sea. On the east side of the ms 'ay ia what I consider to be the continuation of the Saw-back range, so tlial ' i^ Kutanie plain lies in the same trough-like valley of the mountains as th.U m whioii Castle Moimtain stands, and which is continuous to the north-east of Mounts Richardson and Murchison. While resting here the Indian shot some of the big horns, thenu\at of which, '-■If »J^ J 302 Palliser'* Exploration of British North America. when fat, is certainly the finest of all animals in the country. They occur only along the outer range of the mountains. The rams alone frequent the high portions of them, and the ewes keep by the river margins, esi»ecially where craggy. The true animal of the mountains is the white goat, which always keeps at high altitudes, and is only met with toward the axis of the chain. It never descends into the valleys, summer or winter, except at certain places, to eat a kind of white clay, which occurs among the recent dejxjsits in the valleys of the mountains. The valley of the north branch cuts through the mountains more directly than that of the south branch, and is accordingly much shorter. Throughout it is very much wider than the valley of any other river I have seen in the mountains, and it is skirted by terrace levels consisting of deposits of shingle, white calcareous clay, and sand, the whole way up to the great fork. Its descent is not great, amounting only to 300 feet from the glacier lake to where it issues from the mountains. Having passed a large tributary from tlic north, which I named Waputteehk or " White Goat" River, I passed out of the mountains on the afternoon of the 18th, after having been 38 days travelling in them. The following day we arrived at Big Horn River, where i determined to give my horses a week's rest, as they .■ • r'^ so reduced as to be quite unfit for the long trip which still remained before ( '".rg Edmonton. The feeding along this tributary of the Saskatchewan vvi. ' iters it between the main chain and Brazeau range is exceedingly fine, asisting almost entirely of vetches. Besides, I wished to get a series of observations for chronometer rate, so as to determine, if possible, the exact longitude of this place, and by comparing that with the longitude of Bow Fort, obtain the direction of this jwrtion of the chain, as the two places occupy similar positions with reference to it. The latitude of the point where the north branch leaves the mountains is 52° 20' N. The longitude I have not yet ascertained, but by account 117° w. While resting at this place, the Indian killed several ewes of tlie big horn, the flesh of which we dried to serve as provision to take us to Edmonton. Here we were met by a band of Assineboines, who came and camiKjd beside us, and from whom I obtained a fresh horse for one that was too much reduced to proceed farther. The weather was again very unsettled at this time, and several inches of snow fell, which continued to lie on the mountains. Wo started for the Rocky Mountain House on the 27th, and, leaving the north branch to the south, passed through a nick in Brazeau range. This range is formed of limestone beds tilted up at an angle of 30^ to w. They are wootled to their summits on the west side, and rise to about 2,000 feet above the valley. Having again met the north branch, we followed it down through thick forests, till, on the night of the 31st, we reached the Mountain Fort in lat. 51° 28' N., long. 115° 7' w. The fort is deserted all summer, being only a winter ix)st for the Blackfeet. The traders had not yet arrived, so we found it looking very desolate, with the courtyards choked with weeds, and all the windows and doors were standing open. We took possession of it for the two nights we were at this place, but did not find it so comfortable as our camp fire. On 2nd October I left the Mountain House for Edmonton, following the road I had travelled Ijetween the two places last winter. Wo were again out of provisions ; but as wo were now travelling among poplars, we had no difficulty in supiwrting ourselves on rabbits. A severe snow storm, which covered the ground to the depth of 18 inches, quite fatigued our horses, so that we had to load oiu- riding horses ; and in this manner only with difficulty reached this place on the 7th. I remain, &c., .., r ■. j e Capt. John Paij.iser, &c. &c. James Hector, M.D. Date. 1837. Dec. 14 F 19 E , » 19 K >> 20 V II 20 i> '£Z 1838. Mar 29 F Jan, 5 F .. 8 Feb. 10 I. 11 , 20 Mar. 4 .. 6 ," "' Jan. 11 .. 14 July 9 Aug. 12 ,1 14 ,, 15 .. 18 „ 2i „ 22 ,1 24 .. 26 23 Hi Sept 1 »» 3 »« 8 • > 9 11 ft 12 »» 14 Pt 18 • 1 20 23 Oct. 1 ., 5 Nov. 29 Dec. 1 ., 2 I, 4 •• 9 ,, 10 .. 15 Palliser** Exploration of British North America. 303 Observations for Latitude made by Dr. IIkctor when detached from the Expedition. Date. 1857. Dec. 14 .. 19 19 20 20 'i'i I > >> 1838. Mar. 29 Jan. 5 .. 6 ,. 8 Feb. 10 .. 11 ., 20 Mar. 4 Jon. 11 I » 14 July 9 Auk 12 14 t > IS • » 18 »i 21 * » 22 *t 24 f 26 >» 23 >• ao Sept 1 »t 3 »» 8 • » 9 >> 11 II 12 i> U »i 18 »» 20 >» 23 1 f 28 29 Oct. 1 5 Nov 29 Dec. 1 >i 2 II 4 f • 6 9 10 II 15 Place. Four miles E. of Rcdberry Lake Knglish Creek K angle of Red Deer IIlU . . Fort Pitt • I >i Fort Pitt . . Fort Edmonton Crossing Place, Battle River, on Moun- tain Ho. Track Rocky Mountain Fort Elbow of Rattle River Rocky Mountains, Dow River, First Lakes Rocky Mountains, Bow River, Tlie Nick Rocky Mountains, Bow River, Cascade Mount Rocky Mountains, Bow River, Castle Mount Rocky Mountains, Vermilion River, Tlie Angle Rocky Mountains, Vermilion River, Snow Creek, S. from Mount Ball . . Rocliy Mountains, Kutonie River, N. of Forks Rocky Mountains, Kutanie River, its source Rocky Mountains, Beaver Foot River . Rocky Mountains, Kicking Horse River Foils Rocky Mountains, Kicking Horse River Falls Rocky Mountains, Bow River, Noore Creek Rocky Mountains, Bow River, Noor« Creek Rocky Mountains, Bow River, its source Rocky Mountains, N.B. ijaskatcliewan, E. end of (i lacier Lake Rocky Mountains, N.B. 8«s)catchewan, W. end of Glacier Lake .... Rocky Mountains, N.B; Saskatchewan, 4 miles above mouth of Little Fork . Rocky Mountains, N.B. Saskalchewan, 4 miles below Wapattuk River . . Rocky Mouutains, N.B. Saskatchewan, Sheep River Rocky Mountains, N.B. Saiikat4:bewan, Siieep River Saskatchewan River, N.B. Miry Creek . N. branch Saskatchewan S.R. of Mountain, in woods .... Bud liearer Dam Battle River, Bear Hill Red Deer River, mouth of Blind River . , , 10 miles above lust Red Deer River, 5 miles alMve Medicine River Red Deer River, 20 miles above last Little lied Deer River , , , , source of . . . Edge of Plain, Stony Camp .... Obs. Mer. Alt. corrected for I.E. « Polaris Jit Polaris V t I ^ Jupltor O « Polaris 108 20 2i; 13 no 33 no 4 97 46 26 32 i/f Jupiter if^ Polaris 79 20 30 28 26 109 50 28 44 2 44 42 50 51 30 59 51 61 26 30 62 9 30 99 34 107 53 J 19 37 107 19 30 lOi 59 103 10 103 10 101 20 100 49 99 48 98 II 96 28 3ii 95 S3 18 91 38 87 44 86 31 86 36 83 54 82 16 78 45 30 76 41 74 21 70 14 69 3o 30 67 20 30 42 of) 30 30 55 31 10 31 6 30 53 30 47 30 52 30 55 30 7 Longitude by Account. W. O I M 106 56 108 56 10<» 3 109 18 113 49 Latitude. 14 6 ^5 30 11 5 15 16 15 30 15 40 16 16 26 16 19 16 26 16 40 16 52 16 55 16 57 16 38 Q 16 43 17 17 30 17 39 17 22 16 46 16 40 16 10 16 15 25 13 58 13 55 14 14 10 14 20 14 40 14 45 14 50 14 45 N. o r ir 52 42 53 16 53 28 53 35 53 34 53 34 53 34 aS 29 53 30 53 32 53 30 53 30 53 31 53 31 53 30 53 31 52 41 52 29 O 52 19 0' .>! 1 44 51 2 2& 51 9 18- 51 10 42 51 6 O 51 2 45- 50 52 51 37 51 9 30- 51 10 0> 51 16 30< 51 22 40 51 28 51 40 0' 51 54 51 52 16 51 56 30 52 IS 0' 52 24 52 23 30 52 30 5St 26 52 23 30 33 5 52 46 26 52 18 13 52 12 36 53 1 26 31 50 28 51 2'.> 'is 51 21 40 51 25 24 IS! ' t 'M !. I ', 301 TALiilSER's Exi'loration of British North America. Recohd of AsTiioNOMiCAL OusEUVATioNs during Seasons 1857-58. Longikul'S ohtained hy Observation. Locality. Kort WiUiiim, ll.n.C. . 'rit'tiibUiis roriaKi' . . I hi}? i'ortagci (W. fiul) . \\'^ llivor (r. bank) . . Saviiiiiih Portiigc . . . Harrier I'ortai^u . . . Froiich I'Drtiigo . . . Camp Portage .... Fort Frances, II. B.C. . . llahiy Itiver .... I'nrtage di> IViU . . . Wlnipei; Ulvev . . . Ditto *W;nii)eg littko . . . Ditto Upper Fort (Jarry . . I'dsl on bouildary line, near I'cinbina .... I'rairie . Ditto TMtto Ditto Ditto IMtto Tnrtlu Mount, K. Flk . Ditto Qu' ApiX'llc Uikes, 12 miles S. "1 Saskatchewan, S. branch of lied Deer Lakes, o miles N. of I'rairip Ditto '•It'-i ISJg. Eagle Hills . . l»itt«,:j miles S. of I L lizard Ijatltude by Oljser- vatlon or by Accoiuit. JS. O I rt 48 24 5 •it) 3U 4H 45 -i8 oj u 48 b:\ U 48 4j 4cj -.U h8 25 4» 27 4^ 3u Ij 48 50 49 2ii 4i» aj M Ij 50 3a -18 jO 2.1 4J o2 t> 48 59 12 48 52 lU 8 49 49 49 49 49 49 49 Ka;j;l(> Hills, at .Stony Lake I'rairie Ditto Ditto Wlquatlnow, V^alley of . Ditto ditto . I I'rairie ; aDltto ! Ditto I Battle River, 1st cros.sing of Ditto 2nd crossing of, a Dried Mount Camp . ! 52 52 52 8 8 32 6 U jO 20 dO 52 48 51 20 51 4 1 52 5 52 12 52 18 14 14 IG 21 52 52 52 .52 52 .Vi 52 28 39 28 39 30 34 25 36 U 35 39 28 23 24 29 Approxlm M. r. I', xlmatc Mean of Chrono- meter Times corrected lor K. on U..M. r. 1857 June 13, .. 21, I t *•*» » » "*'J| ., 2t>, ,. 27, .. 29, 30, 1. 3, 4. 5, C. 11. lli, •July 8 A.M. 9 a.m. 9 a.m. 8 a.m.. 8 A.M. or. M. la A..M. 7r.M. 7 A.M. 6p.m. 9 a.m. 9 a.m. 8 A.M. 8 A.M. 8'A.M. a A.3I. ,, 2.1, 3 p.m. , , 2a, 3 P.M. ,, 3!,Up..m. Aug. 2, 4 p.m. , , 3, 5 P.M. , , 4, 8 A.m. ,, 5, 4P..M. , , 5, 5 p.m. ,, 7, 5 p.m. Sept. 13, 3 p.m. ,, 27, 3P.5I. Oct. 3, 9 a.m. ,, 4, 9 a.m. , , u, 2 P.M. ,, I', 2 p.m. June 21, 7 a.m. 2*' !> ~^i ,, 24, ., 25. ., 26, •■>7 July L', ,, '1. • . 8, .t ^< ., 10, .. 14. 4 P.M. 3 P.M. 9 A.M. 7 A.M. ■( A.M. 8 A.M. 8 A.M. 4 P.M. 8 A.M. 7 A.M. 9 A.M. 7 A.M. 4 p.m. D. II. 13 1 21 2 !22 2 23 2 25 2 2t> lU 27 4 29 13 30 I 1 a 3 4 5 U II lu 21 21 22 23 i4 25 2t5 27 2 4 S 7 10 14 m. s. 43 39 47 ;»5 31 5.) 10 59 7 17 34 15 4 3,S 24 48 13 58 i)a 8 43 3() 42 42 2 4 55 52 « 35 26 •*7 47 23 10 15 I 28 10 39 34 31 11 5 2. 2 10 3 51 3 11 6 37 4 1 43 38 4 10 31 20 5 11 46 16 7 11 21 <.8 1:< 10 26 3,3 27 11 o2 31 3 3 -13 15 4 4 44 59 5 9 2a 40 6 9 43 4 9 22 14-6' 3 2 2 3 4'.> 47 3 M 43 U 20 15 3 2.i 5 Mean of Observation Altitudes, corrected for. 68 88 S3 39 40 9.1 75 11 30 .33-5 9 46 39 15 19-4 8 30 32 13-5 27 4^ 30 12 4^ 4i 7 45 41 51 ;8 30 39 74 43 35 64 2 -^u 10.) 19 37 11 48 20 53 I: 36 84 34 81 31 72 21 74 i9 Longitude. W. o r II 99 24 50 89 58 48 89 jj 45 SJ 53 48 90 13 46 9) 50 24 91 11 92 27 92 M 73 43 58 6.) 34 4 5i) 51 56 ; 76 28 2 1 56 18 32 ! 45 h2 32 67 37 43 ! 43 6 52 ' 5U 23 2( I I 20 27 9 26 43 30 24 18 40 22 11 31 26 52 32 33 23 19 48 40 2') 42 22 II i5 59 17 7 5 54 2 1 6 35 53 22 36 4t; 25 27 4 9 5 4 31 29 40 41 2 55 48- li' 11 47 15-6i 32 59 i 32 28 4 9,1 33 33 94 1-i 19 94 48 7 94 45 30 9j 17 19 96 33 56 96 30 25 96 52 27 96 4(! 13 97 1/ 29 93 10 39 98 3.', 45 98 47 15 -.'6 It 24 99 1 25 99 16 50 99 21 43 49 31 28 : 103 45 45 25 19 17 107 41 7 107 32 15 107 37 51 107 21 106 51 107 28 15 107 28 IG 107 3.) 4 108 11 108 -V 10-i 44 108 51 108 5i iu9 2 30 109 23 45 no JS 45 110 jO 7 111 29 45 112 14 35 33 27 '^o 39 36 ^ This observation was accidentally cleaned from slate, leaving, however, the result as tabulated. OC hidicales lunar distancf^s observed. N.U. F"requent e.\aminations of chronometer rate, since the date of the last tabulated longitude, showed us that the ratog Lake (S. shore) I'ralrie I'ortace . . ....... 1857, June 13 ., '^2 ., 24 o 129 128 128 128 128 12(5 V24 122 123 120 120 117 116 115 115 113 109 107 105 102 87 81 81 79 77 74 68 66 65 63 50 121 121 121 120 119 118 118 116 116 115 115 114 112 112 112 112 113 113 HI 106 105 103 102 102 101 100 11 51 27 28 29 4 6 45 19 56 40 4 33 36 12 54 59 49 15 37 28 58 9 50 42 5 23 54 32 3 56 48 53 16 5 14 59 42 6 8 18 31 47 14 3 34 9 29 i!2 56 10 5 44 20 38 55 16 27 37 41 21 53 1 51 28 52 22 14 54 50 27 47 37 17 40 35 55 45 55 7 7 47 27 27 27 37 33 33 45 20 30 43 6 55 45 45 40 65 5 55 30 5 35 35 25 20 25 25 35 45 63 o 89 89 89 93 93 94 96 96 96 97 96 97 98 98 99 99 100 101 101 101 102 106 106 107 107 107 107 107 107 106 108 107 108 108 109 110 111 lis 112 113 113 114 114 113 113 113 113 113 113 113 114 115 115 115 115 115 116 W. 24 45 45 33 60 48 20 33 62 46 56 20 50 16 21 5 10 48 48 10 30 10 37 41 32 32 30 10 28 11 52 22 50 29 18 34 3 40 10 65 60 50 45 63 50 58 20 4 12 12 21 21 27 tl 50 33 56 27 13 50 43 30 7 15 3U 10 7 45 45 15 30 o 48 48 48 48 48 49 50 60 49 49 48 49 49 49 49 49 49 50 50 60 50 60 50 50 51 50 51 51 62 62 53 52 62 52 52 52 32 32 52 52 52 51 51 61 51 50 50 49 49 49 50 51 50 60 50 50 50 N. 1 tl 24 5 46 11 66 16 Fort Frances, H.B.C July 1 2 36 15 47 18 Liic de Uols Winlpeg Uiver .. 4 ., 6 ,, 10 33 45 21 38 33 46 Upim- Fort (Jarry I'ralrle . .. 16 .. 22 ,. 25 Aug. i .. 2 ., 4 ,. ft .. 7 .. 12 .. 14 .. 17 1. 21 62 6 28 43 Post on Boundary Line near Pembina . . . Prairie 59 12 6 53 iMtto 7 47 Ditto . 4 40 Turtle Mount, E. Falkland Ditto 32 6 2 Prairie 36 3 Ditto 4 20 a Fort ElUcc, H.B.C Ditto . 24 32 24 24 I'ralrle . . Sept. 11 ,, 18 23 40 Ditto 26 26 Ditto ,. 19 ,. 20 ,, 22 .. 27 Oct. 3 .. 4 27 69 Ditto 44 45 aSuskatchewan, Elbow of S. Branili . . . .Suskatcliewan, S. Branch of lied Deer Lalics, 6 miles N. of Prairie 1 24 52 48 23 43 45 16 Ditto " 5 3 7 Ditto . 31 40 Jack Fip'a I^ake ., 23 1858. June 21 ,, 23 2 6 |.;auie Hills 17 59 I'rjiiriG 14 37 ,, 26 28 39 «Sfind Hills . July 4 .. 8 .. 10 .. 14 34 25 Battle River, Ist crossing of Ditto 2nd ditto rY^Driod TVfpnt. f ^jiuin 35 39 28 23 24 29 Bull Ijike. 3 miles S.E. of 1 )i'ad Man's Creek Nick Hills . . .. IS ,. 20 ,, 23 ,, 24 ,, 26 Aug. 1 ,, 2 >. 6 >. " .. 8 ., 10 ,. 13 ,, lo ., 19 ., 20 .. 21 ., 22 ., 23 • • 23 24 19 25 12 52 53 43 a * cache Camp, Edge of the Wooils . . . 52 52 19 12 Bow Ulvcr, Ist crossing of Most N. Tributary of Belly River, 1 st crossing of Trlbiitary of Belly River, 1st crossing of . . 'I'rlbutary of Belly River, 2nd crosstag . . . a*01dBowFort,Slt«of Kananaskl Pass In Rocky Mourtains . . . Ditto Ditto 20 47 64 46 6 23 32 31 5 6 33 50 63 49 8 46 64 17 45 3 37 I Ditto 37 49 38 65 Ditto r ': I VOL. XXX. 306 Palliseu's Exploration of British Nortk America. Record of Astbonomicai. Obbebvations, &c. — continued. Latitudes — continued. Locality. Tributary of Kutanle River Forlw, Kutanle River Kutanle River Ditto Ditto Tobacco Plain, commencement of .... a Stroy Camj) British Kutonie Poss, W. end of Ditto ditto Heiglit of Land . . . Ditto ditto E. end of Middle Tributary of Belly River, coming from Crow Lodge Most N. Tributary of Belly River, 2nd cross- ing of High Wood River, -4 miles N. of Bow River, 7 miles S. of sjeRed Deer River Battle River, 3rd crossing of a-)(-Fort Edmonton Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Date. 1858. Aug. 24 .. 26 ., 27 ,, 28 ,, 29 ., 30 Sept. 3 ., 6 .. 7 ., 9 ,. 10 Observed Mean Altitude, Corrected for Index Error. O I It 100 32 15 99 14 SO 98 48 40 98 24 40 98 96 54 25 95 12 55 93 49 5 92 47 23 90 53 15 89 44 25 ,,11 88 40 ,,12 86 28 30 ,, 13 84 59 , , Obser. of Polaris ,, 18 , 77 42 23 ,, 22 i 72 52 40 ,, 24 I 71 18 41 Red. to Mer. Red. to Ml.'. Mer. Alt. of Moon. Longitude by Observation or by Account. W. 115 30 115 43 115 40 113 42 45 115 33 115 33 115 27 IIS 22 114 58 114 30 114 25 114 21 114 18 114 10 114 13 114 Latitude, o r 50 30 60 27 60 50 14 21 19 24 10 13 SO 1 14 49 42 41 49 58 15 49 II 21 49 19 44 49 32 3 49 47 50 12 16 50 35 29 SO 57 16 52 4 45 52 39 44 63 31 43 53 31 44 53 32 11 53 31 59 53 32 13 y\ic Indicates Latitude obtained by other methoits. a ,, Lunar Distances observed. N.B.— The Longitude of Edmonton is omitted, oa a series of Lunar Distances ore behig taken for that purpose. Latitude. N. o 1 II 48 30 48 45 4i' 40 48 55 48 53 48 43 48 35 48 25 4H 27 48 36 48 50 49 26 49 53 50 13 50 33 SO 23 49 18 49 5 49 48 63 48 50 48 42 49 10 49 8 49 8 49 8 49 32 49 32 49 49 6 49 8 Ditto. 1 50 4 20 50 24 32 )ltto. )itto. 50 22 51 1 24 Palliseb'* Exploration of British North America. 307 llEcoRD of Astronomical Observations. For lariat ion of the Compass, Mean of Error Moim of Meui) of Latitude. LonKitude. Cliroiioinutei on O'xsei'ved I.E. Observc(i Var. ' riuicu. G.M.T. A tltuiled. Bearings. N. W. E. O 1 II t II D. ii. H. 8. 1 II / /( o 1 O ' 48 30 89 58 48 June 21 3 6 53 2 40 094 36 26 +2 27 W. 193 53 N. 6 21 48 45 89 53 4J .. 22 3 18 42 2 43 -By Hr. L. — N, 90 36 E. 8 54 4t' 40 89 58 .. 21 8 50 46 2 40 ©9J 4 52 +2 27 243 54 5 14 48 55 ,89 53 48 ., 23 2 20 53 2 45 —By Hr. L. — 91 49 9 5 48 53 90 13 46 ., 25 2 45 2 49 072 83 25 2 27 88 35 6 53 48 4j 90 50 24 ,. 26 10 23 45 2 52 =67 27 10 t 1 254 50 3 31 48 35 91 12 ., 27 12 17 22 2 54 30 30 10 > t 279 40 8 14 48 25 92 27 28 ,. 29 13 30 25 3 5 By Hr. L. 290 38 6 46 48 27 92 ;« ,. 30 1 16 56 3 8-5 ^Byilr.L. — 75 30 9 53 48 3(> 93 33 33 July 1 4 19 9*6 3 9-5 OlU 1 33 +5 51 118 15 9 31 48 50 93 58 ., 3 3 34 32 3 12 — 95 23 11 » I 101 11 20 4>.) 26 94 48 .. 4 3 20 9 3 15 89 6 6 » * 96 35 10 17 49 53 94 45 30 ., 5 5 8 60 3 17 118 2 12 1 » 139 51 15 47 50 15 95 17 19 .. « 3 2 30 3 19 84 29 16 1 » 91 25 15 V 50 33 9G 33 56 ,, 10 10 9 3 3 28 74 26 40 1 ■ 244 49 14 41 50 23 96 30 ., 11 2 28 54 3 30 73 33 3 •f6 2 84 43 14 9 49 18 96 40 .. 23 2 11 39 13 65 35 16 1 1 83 25 13 3 49 5 96 50 ,, 23 7 40 13 5 O's sett. amp. 068 19 36 288 10 12 12 49 96 42 28 ,. 25 10 17 42 14 1 +5~2 246 12 14 2 48 63 97 13 44 ,, 28 10 27 16 14 46 =61 17 35 1 1 248 55 14 37 48 50 97 29 48 ,, 29 11 14 8 15 1 49 6 46 » » W.342 ION. 17 48 48 42 97 24 ,, 30 9 48 12 15 6 76 23 6 > » 333 38 19 8 49 10 98 6 39 .. 31 11 7 15 20 53 20 36 1 > N.249 50 E. 17 4 49 8 98 30 4 Aug. it 9 57 56 15 44 73 7 50 * * W.324 48 N. 18 32 49 8 98 43 30 ,. 3 10 59 28 15 59 53 g 4 f ) 337 5 18 41 49 8 98 44 39 ,. 4 1 37 52 16 14 49 13 58 4-4 164 16 17 52 49 32 98 57 40 . 4 9 20 38 16 35 84 5 10 1 9 315 20 18 24 49 32 9S 57 40 5 11 40 12 16 60 39 20 66 +3 17 W.343 18 N. 12 49 99 13 6 2 56 8 16 59 73 16 52 f * W. 178 48 N. 19 44 49 6 99 18 .! 7 11 13 9 17 5 47 51 4 • 1 338 13 18 58 49 8 100 ,. 9 9 4f. 33 17 34 85 :j4 LO * 1 307 15 21 49 Ditto. ] [)ltto ., 9 9 26 • O's sett. amp. 4 30 20 34 50 4 20 100 30 ' ,. 14 9 10 31 17 49 84 43 46 > » 302 32 22 4 50 24 32 101 48 ., 20 11 5 56 , 48 33 4 > t 327 36 21 54 Ditto. i)ltto , . 21 6 10 51 • 101 38 t * 236 50 21 28 Ditto. Ditto „ 21 10 43 19 »• 53 34 56 1 20 324 8 21 14 50 22 103 30 ' Sept. 8 9 20 25 • 33 15 f 1 297 35 24 39 51 1 24 107 37 30 .. 22 10 29 29 • 47 13 36 ; 4 17 301 25 58 Eesult of Lunar Observations. Date. Place. Latitude. Longitude by Lunars. N. O ' " W. W. 1 II O 1 II Dec. 22, 1857 May 19 ,, .. 20 ,, Sept. 22 ,, Fort Carlton Ditto Ditto Elbow, S. branch of Saskatchewan River 52 52 30 Ditto. Ditto. 51 1 26 106 106 106 107 21 45 1 Mean 106 '5 18 15 39j 37 30 Aug. 15, 1838 ., 1«5 „ Old Bow Fort, site of at base of Rocky Mountains .... Ditto 51 9 Ditto. 115 115 45} ^^^^^ "5 4 22 X 2 308 Pallisei{'« Exploration of British North America. No. 4. Fort Edmonton, Saskatchewan, January 10, 1859. ]My Loud, — I avail myself of the opportunity afforded by the Hudson Bay Company's Winter Express to send a few lines to your Lordship, although I have nothing of any importance to communicate, owing to the advance of tlie winter season having put a stop for the present to the farther progress of the Expedition. Shortly after our arrival at winter quarters here, Dr. Hector started as soo.i as the snow was sufficiently deep for sleighing, to ascend the Red Deer River, with the object of examining the remainder of a portion of country previously visited last fall. I also started myself in a south-easterly direction to examine the country surrounding Beaver Lake. I am happy to say that the hoi'ses are enduring the severities of the winter very fairly ; I have lost but two as yet, and I trust that the rost, with few exceptions, will outlive the winter. They are at present removed about twenty miles from the fort, for fear of being stolen by the Indians ; they are guarded by three of my men stationed there, and constantly visited either by my secretary, Mr. Sullivan, or by myself. The horses we ride backward and forward for that purpose are being stabled at the fort. The fort is built altogether of wood, consisting of one good-sized house two storeys high, inhabited by Mr. Christie, the officer in charge of this post and the (company's traders, and also by ourselves during our stint being continued to the north branch as the liad flills and Eagle Hills, while across that river it re-appears as the Thickwood 310 Palliser'j* Exploration of British North America. and VVliito Lake llills. 'ITio average elevation of these plains above Carlton (which \H built upon the first river level, 35 feet above the water) is 250 I'eet, or 2125 feet above the level of the sea, and on it rest isolated iK>rtion8 of the higher level which have survived the general deiuulation, rising as rounded hills from 300 to 400 feet in height, such as Moose Hill on the south branch, and the t»vo Minetouass Uills (Creefor Hill by itself), one of which is opposite to Carlton and the other to Forte a la Corne. These plains are i)lentifully strewn with erratic blocks of all sizes, k'ing fragments of the rocks of the granitic belt which runs to n.w. from Lake Superior to the Arctic Soa, with others of magnesian limestone and butf-coloured quartzosc rock of Silurian age, which crops out all along the western tlank of that range. A very remarkable line of the magnesian limestone boulders occurs at the distance of 20 miles above Carlton, crossing the country from the Thickwood Hills in a southerly direction towards the Moose Hills on the south branch. This limestone contains the same indistinct fossilifcrous markings as that at the Stony Hill behind Fort Garry. Some of these masses are of immense size, being made uj) of portions of several beds which only loosely cohere to form the block. They are all sub-angular, without any glacial niarkings, although some have their sides highly [xjlished and smoothed from the buffalo rubbing against them. One of these blocks was measured, and comj)uted to bo 140 tons. The nearest known point where this limestone occurs in situ, from whence these blocks may have been derived, is 170 miles distant to n.k. Disregarding, for the sake of clearness, the order in which the country was examined, 1 now give at once an account of the whole *' drift " phenomena observed. As we travelled to the west the drift was found to preserve the same mineral character of variable proportions of sand and clay, having boulders interspersed, but chiefly with the clay predominating. The boulders, however, decrease in si/c, and those of limestone become very rare as the higher plains are gained. At Fort Kdmonton, for instance, 1 found it difiicult last winter to procure fragments with which to make lime for medicinal purposes, al- though the river bed is strewn with those of other rocks. Its depth also becomes much less, forming only a superficial covering to older strata, when observed in the river sections to the west of the Eagle Hills. As we approached the Eocky Mountains, it quite disappears from the table lands, and is only to be found in depressions of the plain through which streams run, and even the existence of true drift in these places is rendered doubtful, owing to the prevalence of more recent deposits, which have been formed of its re-arranged materials. At the altitude of 4000 feet above the sea, and at the distance of 50 miles from the mountains, there however occurs a very extraordinary grouj) of blocks of granite, resting upon a high plateau formed of sandstone strata, to be after- wards mentioned. These blocks are of great size, one having been estimated to weigh 250 tons. Although lying miles apart, they seem to consist of the same rock, viz., a mixture of quartz with red felspar, the latter predominating, with only faint traces of mica disseminated in very minute flakes. No granitic rocks have been met with on this side of the watershed of the mountains, and it is not probable that any such exist, at least between the two branches of the Saskatchewan. These blocks present smooth surfaces, although in general they are rhom- boidal in form. Some are cracked into several pieces, which are quite detached, but have evidently at one time formed part of a whole. If these blocks were derived from the granitic belt to the east, as I believe all the other boulders on the plains to have been, then they must have travelled at least from 400 to 450 miles. From the fact, however, that they are almost on the western verge of the drift deposit, and that the boulders imbedded were J'allI8Eu'« Exploration of British North America, 311 ruund nu a nilc to (liininiuli in Hi/iO in thiit diroctiun, itinny 1>o tliat tho presonco of tla-ao l;vr;;c MocIt so distinctly bedded, which form; c high ridge crossing the coimtry from lieu Deer River at the Nick Hillii, by the Musquachis on Battle River to the north branch at Abraha>ii"i Gates. At these places it forms lofty \ "ecipices, which I think must be pimilar to those described as the ramparts on the Mackenzie and Peace Rivers. On Red Deer River, in lat. 52° 12' n., long. 113° w., an extensive deposit of "!oal was discovered associated with the san)e sands and clays as at Edmonton. 'ii ) coal forms beds of much great(;r thickness, however, one group of thieo beds measuring 20 feet, of which 12 feet were pure coal, the remainder being carbonaceous clays. At one place this coal was on fire, the whole bed exposed in a cliff alxjut 300 yards in length being in a glow, the constant sliding of the bank continuing to supply a fresh surface to the atmosphere. For as long as the Indians remember, this fire had never been oxtingiiished, summer or -vinter. A heavy sulphurous and limy smell pervades the air for miles around. . The extent of this coal deposit along Red Deer River is for 14 miles. In / i PAiiLiSEii's Exploration of British North America. 313 i i I b I i following lip the river it is succeeded by the sandstone cliffs, apparently by substitution, as neither the coal group nor the beds of sandstone have any perceptible dip, and this is exactly the same manner in which the passage is effected between the same groups at the Mountain House. Lower down on the river the coal is succeeded by white marls and sands, with beds of calcareous grit, which weather to a bright red colour. Among these beds there occur a great profusion of fragments ot siiicified exogenous wood. Tliis group, however, was better exhibited on Battle lUver, where thoj' dip to north-east at a very low angle. The valley of that river above its elbow is about 14 feet deep, and exhibits in its banks ])hcnomena somewhat like those at lia Koche Perc^e. The strata consist of banded clays and orange- coloured splintery limestone, with one bed quite tilled with fragments of silici- lied wood, of an ashy or black colour. Towards the up^ier part of the section the clays are filled with sandy concretions, in some of which I found a few beautifully preserved fossils, the principal of which were a small avicula, a cardium, and other littoral shells. 'J'herc is also a bed of nine inches in thickness composed entirely of rolled fragments of a species of ostrea, cemented togcth- by coarse sand. This bed I detected at several points along the valley, and by using it as a test found that the whole group had a gentle inclination to north-east. At the point where we crossed Battle Paver a second time, in lat. 52^ 28' k., long. IIP 30' w., in the bed of the streanj, and at the foot of the section described above, the first coal met with in our progress Avestwavd was observed. Whether this be the same coa', however, as that on Ped Deer PivLi" and at Edmonton, or a thin bed, such as was observed at La Poche Perce'e, and of quite a different age, 1 was unable to determine. If the former, then it is certainly overlaid by the ostrea and avicula beds ; and these fossils when comjiared at homo will throw nmch light on the true age of this coal. (I regret to say, that owing to t'le bursting of the hoops of the kegs in Avhich they were packed for carriage tu Edmonton from the 15ow Fort, some of these fossils, as well as others, wore losL on the road ; but I hoj)e yet to have an opportunity of procuring another set.) This group of strata, characterized by the light-coloured majls which wore found in Battle and Ped Deer Pivers, was not observed along the north branch. 1'he distance between the twi) points where they were found on the foiiner rivers was 50 miles in a line due west. The superficial strata which compose the prairie country p/reserve their horizontal character, as the Pocky Mountains are apj/roached, until within 40 miles of the eastern limits of the true chain. At this distance tliey com- mence to undulate, at first gently, but ..oon assuming most intricate ^-lications. The section along the Little Ped Deer Piver displays the structure of the near range, which is wholly made up of the plications of the more sujierficial strata. Th« grits and clays of the Snake Portage again re-a])pear in this section, and are seen not only to change from their almost horizontal arrangement, but also to lose their original mineral character, the clays becoming indurated and converted into hard shales with a smooth soapy streak, while the sandstone beds are cleared in their original lin'.>s of false bedding, and rendered so very much harder, that in the summer when I observed isolated sections I was not sure of their identity, and only removed my doubts this winter by an examination of the continuous section afforded by Little Ped Deer Piver. From under this group the septaria clays arise, also mucii altered in character, but I obtained fragments of the same fossils that were found at Fort Pitt, and the elbow of the south branch of the Saskatchewan, so that 1 have no doubt of their identity. They are found on the west side of the outer range in the valley which intervtnes between it and the main chaii,. The Rocky Mountains, as far as tlie west side of the watershed, consist of parallel ranges running from n.n.w. to s.s.e. between the north branch and 314 Palliser's Exploration of British North America. liow liivcr, but south of that changiiiif to nearly north and soutli. Tliesc; ranges are in groups, divided from one another by trough-like valleys tra- versing the length of the chain. The two eastern ranges from the Bow Foii to the Sawback range are mainly comiK)sed of a blue limestone, sometiuies chcrty, sometimes compact, and sometimes crystalline, with fossils which belong either to the carboniferous or Devonian epoch. As a, rule, these strata dip to the west ; the same beds are, however, exhibited again and again, being thrown up in plications of great magnitude. Jiehind the Bow Fort, the mountains rise as huge cliffs made uj) of the cut-edges of these strata, elevated to the licight of 3000 feet. Borne up on these limestones is a mass of strata composed of micaceous sandstone, with particles of carbon disseminated. 'J'his group also apjiears along Bow Kivcr and Deadman River, after they leave the mountains. Along with these sandstones are intercal.ated carbonaceous shales, among which are to be found traces of coal and carboniferous plants, of which latter one was a calaraite, somewhat like Calamites cannajformis of the coal measures at home. Jlesting on the flanks of tlie limestone ranges are patches of the se]>taria clays and grits, which are recognised at a distance by their earthy ap^iearance. Such ))atches are foinid throughout the mountains at different ^wints. Thus at the Vermilion Itiver, the beds which, by their decomix)sition, give rise to enormous quantities of ochre along the courses of the smaller streai. , seem to belong to this group. At the angle which this river makes, about fourteen miles from its source, there is a small patch of about one square mile in extent which presents an unmixed soil of ochre of a light reddish yellow colour, without a trace of vegetation on its surface. To the west of the Sawback range the limestone was not observed, that range being composed of its bed cro[)i>ing out vertically along the east side of a valley, in which stands Castle Mount, composed of horizontal beds of a hard quartzose sandstone, passing into a conglomerate, and capped by brown slaty shale. At the Kutanie plain, on the north branch of the Saskatchewan, this shale is seen to underlie the limestone. The mountains which compose the height of laud of the Vennilion Pass consist of the same rocks as the Castle Mount, but in descending Vermilion Uivor a wliite 'slate is met witli, which again is succeeded by a deep blue com- pact limestone, associated with a clay schist, curiously banded with red layers. On the north branch of the Saskatchewan, the mountains at its source are composed of this blue limestone and banded schist. The very complicated relations of these strata render it imix)ssible to form any sound view regarding their thickness or relative positions from data collected during one rapid survey, especially when it is remembered that they compose one of the most massive mountain chains in the world, the toi)Ography of which had to be learned step by step as the survey was made. The most singular fact is, that no trace of the eruptive rocks which have caused the great convulsive movements of this portion of the earth's crust should be found in connexion with the dividing line of the mountains, from which the waters are thrown into the Cnilf of Mexico, Hudson Bay, the Arctic and Pacific Oceans. The direction of these waters seems altogether to be determined by the arrangement of the superficial deposit filling up the valleys. 'i'owards the lower jiart of the Vermilion lliver, the schists are fractured by slaty cleavage, but which is not very perfect. More to the south, however, from Mr. Sullivan's notes, I find that the mountains along the cast side of the Kutanie riv(!r valley are comiiosed of true clay slate, which also forms those at l)0th heights of land crossed by Captain Palliser's party. I have, &c., Captain John PalFiTseh, Ar. iCt. (Signed) irtMics Hkctoh, M.l). 'ica. outli. Those; valleys tra- tlie Bow Foi't le, sometimes fossils which I, these strata 1 again, being ^w Fort, the rata, elevated lass of strata inated. 1'his hey leave the ficeous shales, ints, of which 3 of the coal ' the septaria f aji^jearance. oints. Thus , give rise to eai. , seem to bout fourteen lile in extent ellow colour, bserved, that c east side of eds of a hard brown slaty xhewan, this jnnilion Pass ng Vermilion ej) blue com- th red layers, ts source are isible to form ife from data cd that they e topography s which have earth's crust mtains, from y, the Arctic gether to be p the valleys, are fractured ith, however, st side of the » forms those Ton, M.D.