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(irt» FI'llY *"» HECtl 1 --^ rV c* i& y^'rr of the mm DL^to^TEBIESiiiadeiiiTHEAKCTir KEGIO>\S 'f^ ■\ ■'■'if^SWj.rMas "K %t ^i / irAHRATIVE or A '!•■■- SECOND VOY IN SEARCH A or A NORTH-WEST FASB^'^^^ ^ AND OF A RESIDENCE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS, m* ■■■f-^. ''■'* ^ "Wk DURING THE YEARS 1829, 1830, 1831, 1833, 1833; BY SIR JO0i ROSS, C.B., K.S.A., K.C.S., ^c. ^c. CAmm IN THK BOTAI, NATT, JL INCUIDINO IDER (NOW CAPTAIN) J. C. RO^ m. »jl», t La, Ac. ^\ 'a^ THE DISCOVERY OP THE NORTHERN MAGNETIC P<^LE. ' mi •V PHILADELPHIA: E. L. CAREr & A. HAfttaiioA^^'^ y^^ BALTIMORE #''iL ' ~.>t^ •'"oi J " .. :arey. hart ■>. « ■"&, rue d» 4pu6bec 4,auE. ^y i^lkv^^ — ^-"(T' *^- **-^ '^^ , Vil t'.Ti(a TO . _ '^ ms MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY WILLIAM IV. KINO OP GREAT BRITAIN, IRELAND.Ac. THIS NARRATIVE OP TBI : ^ DISCOVERIES MADE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS. IN THE YEARS - 18», 1830, 1831, 1833, ihd 1833, IS DEDICATED WITH HIS MAJESTY'S GRACIOUS PERMISSION. BY HIS MAJESTY'S LOYAL AND DEVOTED SUBJECT, JOHNROSS, ^ CAPTAIN IN THE ROYAL NAVY. Z' A \ ~- ■ -rVV- t»«fell»,*' ^ ?'''', sf-f^fTliB -* ■ " . < ■ V.K- / INTRODf CTIok. .*' # ject, to the fina^tMa^l^^emeM^^ "'"*?*9 theo'WJnalpro- the diii^e";;' Sf a nOTK«?'pSS£'e IM^ST'^/'^k'^S" undertaken for attempted for "ome yew^to cS2fe^o:,th. ?Ik'**' '"?* wWchjgill probably be tory of the endeavourl^do t^S^.?rjf - V° '**'"' 'J^iS^^^'-^ '•«»^. «»e hia- northorn-horea ofXS'rai^^^^^S^^ elied. ^ ' northern ahores of AmerioA, hs 01 him m particular on whom ll _ ■ But ep touch has been publMhed^on"i'h!«''«tS!)i«<.f — j k long before my first vovaire and -till ^x^ij-^^^Al *^ °y "<> "»ny writers, iouriMilB and reviiiJJ^oftC work of bJ^^ vpyajpe.. thew^ic lation, to render rocha 8kS?nMrfl.,oSr*L^ v''''^^]**? 'ojW been in dreu- thanan abridged MmpytioJrVoffinS^'^,1* ^2?^ ^i""* '^^ ■"i*'^ ""ro Birte^riUs^^^^ Harri,.bhur1»I,. .Yet not^^lfi5iTfeav«Ste tte^^ ■uchi«iBiiWino.™«„iJ.«L*ir-_iS\,J° *^^ on tUa auhject, those to whom -^? n^?i2L2T"^?'''' ' here»iveacondeS I purpose, from the writera abore naided. U who are.deairqia of extending theSWoi^ >s. ^-'',^^'^&^^3^iM:^:'Ms^r fhaey: reade'ra. J^^^tA T^^ fu*"*"'y ^''et tWe problem t M. and the first northern expmlition by sea o SSSva^'ISo.W*'"" DrZheimToTe V 1496^JohnCabot..aUed.andma/eanScces, . ,_. _«._^ ^WM called AniM,S th^. ^7 ******'*'' ^'* *"" «""» "^ch ^^oii^r^^ ^^S^o'&SSfer?^' voyagea fcrke p„rpo«^of t will be aumcient to aatiaiy moat jms to have been first propoa- which we know, was that of •"V Sea- Icelatad waa alao tntly, Greenland, by meana of rul voyage in the sam« quarteri :■^•^. V^, \'^ \ ■ r v'^ii^^f*^'^^'" pj ■■/*■; ' ">-'' RODirCTlON. b\t V ■ ! :~ ^ -■: i»w»X5«J!«iiS^SS>XSSiSr^"™'' '^^'^ bulk, TS^I-r^'S^'icll^^^^^ which doeanot appear that he made a'Srafe^aScf l^JAra^^^^^^^ J iK«.*'S*>*'^^°S.^«'' fetU'S nKthere^nv ±T„^*'' * north-?'"! pasB^J^ the Pacific: but he retnrn«H «^!f k^„* i." '^^'""^^b* passage, by thti'wai^ oT ,_««iledtoj/Bwfo\indl2S:' ^^^n^'^'S »» <»»«>ver the north-west passage, .. W?^'0?tfe'ttS«7iTCs*lfr^^«^ ■trait he diacovered^ 2m3 ^^J'^^'iViS^^- ™P'-«Jeerly termed a PesofaUon, and, on tfc^^SSn Sore mS n *>,«. apPefiatiye of Cape ham. Ex2«r So^nd.andsomnht%Lfti gale^fi, Caj« W^a.™£ T-J*"^ the latitude of 66J»liorS! ^* "*""* ^*''«*" OimberJand isCd ' jC^^^^"^'«°K'^th^^^^^ navigator made Wem whieh he h^ in view. TCdS^v-^J'^h **•* •"^"^SP. °f *»»« P™- in the coufse of his three vov^^J^J^^le'^' howeve^;, which he made •infce, to bini mm-e K mv »^£Zi^°'^*Tf *'* commerciU imyortance' Jo t«)«iit he has not had many rivalr and it^^^!^*'*'yiP¥J"»d pver. to higratitude, which feili KLk him fiST^fif^iP^h*^^ British commerce. ^ "vuianic bim for the debts owed him by S 2Jn^™eSS°tbat ifTrrA'?*'^ canynuued. and so mterlv ij J«ifor .the sake TtRwho £ir"K heard o*f'hi'.'*'°"°'°«if«' '» "^ the ci«ieism which it has justly "weh^ H« 1>.vi «'"♦ '"'y?«*' ^"* °o* «>f m^ own accoSnt hrfoltowy^t^coLVint*^! P^^^^^^^ '^'"'IS*^ Anian. By his which he sailed in wious di?e^?SS..T!L*'^^^^ «« openinfc up entered into the NoSh SwfXrfindift *M^ days afterwhia he leagu^iwithinthe strait a. t'oSfSTu^pi.^^^^^^^^ rfrT -■■■■ f [T ^ ^.. vy^''/ .mi-'' if but was a> but aaw Eive sailed is voyage, have dis- JiinLap- MTBODUcnOR. tune of beiW i^im^^^^^'^'' ^J*""* name haStod the sood fo- Kave rise to^SSJiSiS^ji? no^common manner. Zt^r^fS^I?^ -■ which mate and nilo* tk-s* "/..'■ 1 wnue the con«equeiHs« of ih. 7«;2?"^" •ufficientlv true in the UuitaA _ ^ — — -a: -^^2aii2t_.rf.- ,.;^. ^ .^'^ ; ■ ' ■ ■ ■ :^.,.. *-'-*U^^^"^ V m m tia omiaoootioif • * knowii ialand to wht^ he gave his name. Since my o^ VoyiBin, in 1818, there have heen douhta respecting this "James's island;" and the subject is BO remarkable, not less than complicated, that I most refer it to the end of this introduction, where I have attempted to elucidate this somewhat ^troublesome piece of geography, aiid) as I trust, with some success. 1633 Seven Russian sailors, who appear to have been shipwrecked at Spitz- ' • bergen, remained there one year. i - 1636 The Russians discovered the Lena and other rivers in the north of Europe and Asia, the account of which will be foui|d in Churchi^rB collec- tion oT voyages. . « , - 1640 Bernarda,a Spaniard, affirms that by a coasting voyage hesaiirafrom the Pacific through a strait, and reached an isthmtls which divides the west from the east sea at Baffin's bay, where he could see the sea on each side from the high land, unfeh he ascended. 1646 Forty-two persons werewrecked at Spitzbergen, and remained there a year. • 1719-1722 There are voyages recorded to have been performed between .these years, by Knight, Barlow, Vaughan, and Schoggs; but very little is known of these navigators, except that they sailed to discover a north- west pass- age. As no account of them was ever received, it mu%t be presumed that they were lost. , „ 1719 John Munk sailed on a voyage of discovery to the north, but bis men all died excepting two, and he was unsuccessful, as far as any record of him has arrived to our days. 1722 Behring's strait was discovered by the navi«^tor of that name: he was afterwards wrecked on Behring's island, which he had discovered, and there he died. * - 1741 Christopher Middleton sailed to Hudson's bay in the Furnace, fo> the dia- covery of a north-west passage; his failure led to a controversy between him uid Ddhbs, and also wiu the Admiralty, on which I need not here 1743 Six Russian sailors were left at Spitzbergen, and remained* there six 1740-11^ TlieRussian government employed several officers, and tnteed, by laiid, nearly the whole coast of Europe and Asia, between Nova Zembla and BehruYg's strait. ^ .. , „, ... 1746 William Moor and Francis Smith made an unsuccessful attempt in this wearisome pursuit by the way of Repulse baV; this being one of the speculations, the execution of which has since been repeated in our own times, and, as all know, without success. •■■ 1769-1772 Hearne discovered Heame river, by means of a journey by landj which has been so often quoted as to be familiar to every one. 1773 Phipps (afterwards Lord Mulgrave) made an unsuccessful attempt to reach th^ Pole; this voyage is equally familiar^ and is often quoted, the moroiie,- tuerhaps, on account of its style, and ol the honours conferred on his name. . 1776 The justly celebrated Captain Cook (accompanied by Captain James Clerke,} who had already performed two voyages round the world, at- ^temptea to discover the north-west passage, by Behring's strait, which he entered m August, 1779, and penetrated to a point Wlichhe named Icy Cape, in Uttitude 70*» 29' N, and in longitude 198» 2ft' W, where he found - the ice impenetrable, being a solid mass ten feet thkk and extending across to the coast of Asia, aground in twenty-seven fathoms. He returned to the Sandwich islands, saa^ there, as is wDil known, he lost his Ufe in a con- test with the natives. • . 1780 Captains Clerke and King made another unsuccessful attempt m the same . . quarter; but the furthest pomt to which they proceeded was lat. 7V. 33' N, m 1940 west longitude. ,. . . « . « , 1776 Lieutenant Pickersgill was sent out in the Lion brig to meet Captam Cook, by Baffin's bay: he reached the latitude of 68" 10', and bore up for Labrar dor, returning unsuccessful. 1777 Lieutenant Young, in the same ship, was sent for the same purpose: he reached 729 45' (Woman's islands), and returned without making any fur- ther progrees. .. , 1. I78S'17B7 The Danieh Admiral Loweooro, eailed to "re-dwcover" (ae tde ■■Mr IMTaOOUCTIOM^ ^ IX i phraae is), Eaat OreeAland, but his vessel being damaged bjr the fee, h« returned to Denmark unsuccessful. 1789 Alexander Mackenzie, afterwards knijphted. discovered the Maokenzid river by a land journey, and trace^ it to the Frozen Sea. His tediously- written journey has been read by every one conversant with voyages and trft vds " ' * 17M Mr. Duncan examined Chesterfield inlet: his men mutinied, and here- turned, inconsequence, without succreas. .4 1815-181^ Lieutenant Kotzebue,Jna vessel named the Rurik, fitted out for discovery at the expense o£. the i Russian Count Romanzoff, proceeded round Cape Horn, and attempted- the discovery of the north-wiBst passage, by the wa^ of Behring's strait. This he passed, and entered on the sea . whfdi washes the northern shore of the American continent; discovering also the sound which, bears his name, and which had been passed unob- served by Captain Cook. He returned unsuccessful, as far as even the slightest attempt at t^e passage is ooncerned, since he did not succeed ia rraebing ley Cape. 1818 In t^ year I circtimnavigated Baflin's bay, and by this means restdred to our fhairts, whence they had been expunged, the valuable discoveries of that great navigator, whose name it bears: correcting them only where ^ the imperfection, of hisymeans, and other circumstances, had lefl errors, of snuul importance compared to what he had effected. I need not name here, what else in its consequences to commerce, was the result of this my first voyage. 1818 Bu^hao made a fruitless attempt to reach the PolcS; having failed, from cireumstances beyond his control, he returned in consequence of the ^ damage sustainedby his ship. 1819-1820 Parry in hislSrst voyage, between latitude 74° N, and 113" W, dis- covered Melville island. North OeorgiaA, now called Parry's islands, and Prince Regent's inlet, and was the first to winter in these regions. 1830-1821 Franklin in his first journey from Hudson's bay, by land, for this pur- pose, traced the coast of America between Heame'river and point Turna- gain. 1821-1822 Parry, in his second voyture, discovered the land which he has termed Melville peninsula, togetner with the strait which he iias-named after his ships, the Fury and Hecltf. 180^1823 Franklin, in his second journey, traced the coast of America be- tween Mackenzie river and Cape Back; while Dr. Richardson, separa- ting from him for tHh purpose, surveyed the coast between Hearne and Mackenzie rivers.. ' » ^ 1822*1829 Parry, in his third voyage, penetrated djown Prince Regent's inlet as far as latitude 728 30' in longitude 91° W. In this voyage the Fury was lost, and he in cojisequence, retiirned unsnccessful. 163^-1836 Beechy, in a voyage which occupied the period denoted in these dates, passed through Behring's strait, and attempted to penetrate to the ,eastward:-he reachmi the 71° 23i' latitiideand the 156° 21i' west longitude, leaving about ISO miles unexplored between his own and Franklin's disco- veries. 1827 Parry, in this vear, made an unsuccessful attempt "to reach the North Pole; It having been imagined that a free passage (o the equator itaight Eossibly be made in that direction, e results of all these vovages show that the discovery anduirvey of the land between Greenland ana Asia had gradually advanced: so inat when my voyage was undertaken in 1829, there were only 150 miles on the west side, near Behring's strait, and 500 miles on the east side, between Capeom both the ship and the shore for several days, and it was not until we aiitu93ly-iealked round 'it that we were certain that no passa^ existed in that direction; proving how very deceiving the appearance of ice in a bay or passage is, by its having deceived all the officers of both the Hecla and Fury, after, too, an experience of eight years, just As it kitd myself and the pilots of the Isabella, in 1818. Neverthdess I determined to follow my first plan, which was also that approved of by Commander Ross, and Mr. Thom, the second andnhi^d in thO direction. I shall leave the re- mainder of my proceedings for the reader of my narrative, which is carried on in the shape of a journal, which was Written by myself daily. The ship was fitted out m a manner far superior to any other ^hs. she combined every im- . provement which had previously been made, and the provisions were of the very best quality; and althotufh the feeling was against her qualities, in conse- sequence of the lamentable future of the machinery, sheproved to be the very best vessel that was ever employed on such a service. .The instruments were ehiefly my own; the transit was 36 inches, and the theodolite 9 inches, both by Jones; and several instruments were lent by the Admiralty and Colonial Sec- retary, all of which were lost, excepting a dipping needle, now in the possession ol Captam J^. Ross, belonging to the Admiralty; two of the chronometers were my owh, one the property of Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham, and three belonged to Mr. R^urray: all of these performed well, but four of them were lost with the ship. Commander, now Captain J. C. Ross, who was second in command, had during the whole time the charge of the transit, and to him belong all the observations made with it, and with a sixty-six inch tele- scope of 3t object glass, belonging to me; but these observations must, with the Natural History, also by him, form a part of an appendjx,^ which will be .;> kii INTRODDCTION. published separate frofu the narrative^ in which are only the abstracts, whidi would concern the general reader. The sketches front which the drawinn ]?[Si ?!."?*'*.£''*" *fi*'" ^y¥\: RopaW's invaluable perspective instranZnW^ and tterelbre TOM< be true delineations: these, although they have been narUv redcfi«rn by Harding and Rowbotham, and engraved on steel by the first en- ^rravers, whose names will be found on the plates, were j>riffinally mv own ■ketches, but they are only offered to the public as faithful tluiTtrations of the ^*'iiii- i."H? ''«" awpe that I do not posseb such talents in that art as couM embellish It, were the scenery even more favourable. The Meteorological Table, whwh is given in abstract, will be in full in theAppendix, as-weli as I JK?"!?lu Variation, and a new theory of the Aurora BoreaUs: indeed, the length of the narrative has eo much exceeded, what I expected, that 1 have not been able to give any of thp scientific obsefvations at full length: as I have preibrred giving Commander Ross's joiuaxfeys, in which will be found the most rS* «r ♦^m'**"1^^*^* of our discovery; and also that of the present posi- , tioh of We Magnetic Pole. The methods which necessity pointed out forthe preserwitlonrfAeheaJthairf discipline of the crew w^^ infbll; and at the «nd will b^ found an Addenda, comprehending tiie conclusion of our proceedings after our happy return. "wu-wnwi our. -J?iir '>*•''''"''? *?'T*^*'/™«? "*■ commencement until its conclusion, ]^-„# "'^fA^T?!!^®''^" u"*.?'" '^I P«'OY»<'ent'»il circumstances, affording an «Jhl«* A'?°*^^*?y'""'®j^'j° "go down into the sea in ships." dc., are!^ all others, fhe most dependent on the Divine aid, and the inost short-sigited of . mortals; while it must be no less manifest, that if men trusting in "Km who cannot err.' will only make use of the means mercifully put within their SSr^atef* "^ no^difficulties which cannot be overcome, iind no case too - It u not necfessary that I should, in this Introduction, enter into a formal discussion respecting the probability that yet remains of finding a "North-west fhSf-^LV" the.northwardofthe 74th degree of latitude. ffuchremSkn. I have had occasion to make on this subject, will be found in the course of the tollowmg narrative, wherever occasion lor them chanced to arise: while, even '• iJl^ir "^k ™u ™ *? ™y °" *•*" ff^A* sod . that La Perouse shbuld hatelhi memory of Cook, or W this great man had he then lived, should have sJek" ened at the success oflhe bold and intelligent French navi^tor. BrotheSl 'i^S^'JH ^^^ "T" ™«.W^ '" Rne track of discowy. If therfare SIS^.TlSJE^'^i'V"!!!'''"* '"* nnagini& or exciting jealousies and disllkM I £?i Pf^fSiP, ^^° 5®* *hia|{ it needful to^iseuss the question of this passase. ' ""y HaiP we a few remarks on the'ijubject Which might not veryreadilv ^^JXfu^^^"'?^' ?°*.** least, to those who have not familiari^^m- n^EsTi I *^V^^^ 9*""* 'P geography, by previous reading. nfln«t*S«i!?iLf T*"° «" the present expedition, various hypotheses were Sr*m'*^*"'* *"* probable place of the expected passage. AJl these were jnstifiabl(i, m some manner or other, or in a greater^rleis degree-, as hyn^ Sri-*'^?-^?'^'*'*'^^''*? "«*' '^" *•'.'"■* <>♦ Pi^oof. On the asserted. oriW' nwT. "wications of such a passage, m one dirfection or in another, I had nevSr. SiSSh^li*-^/*^*^"' though willing lo..lis»en to all, and des'iroqs, ?Xr ir faS: ' *^*'"^ °"® *° **"* indulgeiKPe of his own speculatimis I ii^l'^i -^«i¥" "° hypothec* of my own, I think 1 may now safely say that fi.rm^n^nnPi"'"^ any knowledge by this voyage, which would justify me in forming one; assuredly at least, not in proposmg a new scheme for the discove" %^'-x^~ V IlfTRODDCTION. Xiti ■■v age throuffh Lanoaater atrait and by tbe^ay of Mel^e ialknd/i b»:» 5^ ii« mort tfaan waa known befOrb; n6r ha*e fMy MStarefno; i.^.^**'' dpubta. to ofler reapeetin^ it. which I could add fowKaarrSSd^^^SS^nii diacuaaed. It waa a portion of thia region to Kh we neve?i^nSl « ceaa inaalnuch aa theaeheme which I h£i detSnedto fdlow ISL ?dXS^ one, leading me in another direction, and becauae we c3 nev22^^t™S?^ day, I ahnoat aay, when we rfrat truated ouraelvea to thia bSbarooa 3,op| ^ Thua ako. whether the imposaibUity of paaajng northwarS b^thS^V «p the Pole, ianowfully admitted, or not, afnce t'he iiifire of K^ry'aMltt^nf thu too la a qneation reepectiner which f he courae of my own n^^tioM = not allow me to form any additional coniecturee. ^ navigation did «iSJ2?Ttl'&?***'?P* *'"i?V "^'-T'^^ o"/ of wWch, aa far aaa paaaaeeiia cto- nSSS^?- JH'"®J' "u"'' ^^°'^ ^^ V°^^' has ffiv4n me no neVhywtheaL to offer, nor any freah acheme to propose, and if afl therefore ofVkS-JHiff^ ture, aa hoM ia concerned, remainVaa itwas, the nStivl waukW m.Si: S-L12^' fl««**ion, independent of all the otherlSowfeffie £ g^^y or whatever elae, which has been gained by thia laborion^^^«»A .«SS??hi tifiable and natural hope of aucceed ng, waa the laat effi)rt of l^r^ mnSV^ * ZW^"*!" k'Iu''*''¥""**^1*"^ >'' it •>«. «n all oteaeiona of life aa in lhi« A gam to demolish those hopes which only tend td deSn the mprif »rVi^^ result at least belonga to our present voy^e. We i»?Sd LSiiinLiKf ^ cation or commerce. The BtntPn? in J;«rf, k ^ u P'"^Po«e» of communn j- ii* INTRODDCnON. ■ueh, as he andl have shown, that alt utility of this kind would beawild hone, not only at any given period, but forever. ■ , It remains, therefore, to say, since I need not lon^j^er dwell on this subjeit. that while my voyage and its rwults-have demolished all hypothesis and hopes butlbose which may still be entertained respecting Lancaster strait; and the roie, 11, mdeed, the latter has still an advocate remaiung, there are now fewer temptations than ever to make any fresh attempt for solving this prob- This at least is true, as far as an actual or practical communication round the north coast of America is concerned: yet how is it more ti-ue now, than when tne problem lyas first proposed (I will not say by the early navigators), but by those who ajgainjirought forward this scheme before my first voyage, in 1818, and caused it to be put into action during so many successive seasons, under a course of expenditure so heavy? It did not require more than my first voyage, it scarcely required that to show, that no commerce could ever be attempted in this direction, even had some smgular good fortune proved that the American continent did not extend further north than Hecia and fur v'strait, or had terminated much short of this: eyMf. I may. say, had the actual passage been efiected by some luckv ship. Merchants risk much on commerce, it is true, but they are not given to hazard every thing, in oppsition to the dictates of common sense, or in equal defiance of experience and probability. They have a test, also, by which their united body judges of every thing m cases of this nature; and that Barometer is sta- tioned at Lloyd s Coffee-house, lo be consulted by all. On what terms could such an msurance be efiected: on what premium, evep under the favourable cjrcumstances which 1 have thus supposed? Where the sum, and therefore the hazard for each man is small, men wilfgo very far, under very slight hopes: but It IS to be doubted if a premium, even to the value of the entire shm and car- go, would have filled the list handed to those who, bold and liberal as they are, or hopeful as they may be, are men of acute understandings, and of more infor- tion than is sometunes suspected. Commanders there are, it is certain, who would have tried, and tried any thing; for in such men, thank heaven, England has never been deficient, and, 1 hope, never will. As to our seamen, there is notlung which they will not undertake: or at least, in my younger days, there IB nothing which they would not h«^ve undertaken, throwing all their cares, as they ever do, on him h* whom they are conducted. May„it so continue under this new era of rising hgrhtluul spreading knowledge!- But more than this woukLhave been wanted; and that, I verily believe, would never have been obtained. With respect to my future attempt of this nature, my opinion. I presume, may be easily extracted, from the general tenour of the following journal, and from various remarks made as occasion gave rise to them, as welfas from what 1 have just said; smcethe conclusions from this are almost loo obvious to re- . quire a distmct statement. If there are now no hopes of a useful passage, as these ought to have ceased / ../ ^, ,.» 1? e • ^ survey oi we norinern snores oi America, otiu mwe may J TS J»«rt™a?»e. M a desired object..when it is to their spirit of enterprise and abuity thatthe world owes nearly all that isyet known respecting this lohg obscure ami difficult piece of geography. Surely also it is right, that this boQ spwit should not flag ibr want of the means of exertion, nor these abiUties and experience and science lie dormant, or cease to be cultivated for want of ob\ jects capable of rousing ambition, dod of occopations which may tempt men to\ make or m a m ta in themselves what men can be, when inducements are held ont to them. V ' Where economy is put into the balance against all this, it is a contemptible economj indeed; too much as such false economy has become the rule of an age which has rendered our once liberal, and splendidly liberal country, a &r other Britain than it once was. Alas, that men cabi^ot see how miser8J)le is tbe spirit of money making and money saving, how wretchbdly debased inan b»f comes when tlTis forms his sole pursuit, whei< alibis notions of moral conduct are confined within the base code of Franklia's "Poor Richard;" to produce the effects which it has done in the country to which he preached hi»^^religion," I may call it, not merely its morality. No^iuch is the spirit of my noble-minded \- f V INTRODUCTION. XV friend, to whom the world u now indebted for the produetg of tha ^rA«>n« *«„ observation, with a repeUtion of the BugeLtiomv&h iCe S rSSl i^fh- commencement of mjr journ4 If I waf GnfortunSe L my own s ^S J?.«i* • ft"* Y?« ?®* *V mww'tune of the plan, but of theVerael iWr"v ftS Xf«* f the ship, its aixe or eonstructibn, but of its wretehedT^l Kl^iTt l??' "°^'?» . nery.TMyoDinion remains unaltWKve'sSScStt L^rf4"ru°a&roiJ^a s'll^^;r«^%fxal^^^^^^^^ 1 nave not, m these miscellaneous remark^tao^eauestionorH "nArth «-«♦ passage," given such sketches of my geqgrapM dSSovwfes m 1 o^ifc^S* ttlias otfered m the journal, and smce a connected view of the fact iVni»ht tuff STiSlif ^''^iSf*'''^K'l°'5''''»^ readersnot?revi?us??i^ 'aS*S m!n^^ '***''*' *" ""'^ ^« preceding discoveries, maW m?Sf^ « Jhilt*"!'"""'^'?' ""'^' *° ^"l^'I" "» '^ord" alone, and without i eferenee to a chart, to a picture, of facts which saves many worSs and ako nr ffinf^^^hf t^^^AS^kl^ •"■;'?*?" of language eve/ca![i do ' LSThTrwdwatttt SX° teS^^ '* " here given, and, with its aid, a few wo?d!WJ&^J li-il^ili Sf»«e*« seen that the last point in Prince Regeiit's inlJt which Sir least to that nf«"n«,?i.™- *^°®'" problem, tor which an interei it. next at Bee( haai •|^ * 4. ■m f #. UftRODUOTtOM. Atmo.iT ^JTr "* I"* examination and meaaS^in* of d **^ J™ follpwiMr verbal exDlanadon. »lll h. XVtI " ess JiKT Affc 'g" ^ of o/sJ. - - >no'S%en!Sa ^n;iSShrJ5?ST„?£I?'l!r.l.^^7. *»» u uiiraa, 1 twrthern 1 MaclMnaie river, beinJ the only di^Sii-Jlf'fil^^l ?' *S' «■«.»>• nwath of tliu. traced Jill C.dtWoS^o5^.XSljlt£tiK^ ' ¥^ J^ 'he io«rne;^;i!^^^^^^ S^yiSl; P^urtt~vki^r"LttglSf'o^^^ <»f thuB SaSriS oS^SS?chkrf?hS ^^ <^« yew *ort portion ofthe coa.uSd that can evw^Terived^ouJd be «f.It^^^^^^^ **''*""•* "** ^"'J' MtirfiiSS line instead of rblMk fiSt nf 1,m. -^1 • ** '?• ""^^ P'*»e« of Paper» a Uaek often cimdBtf^iSdShtt matter ftin'lK'K^ ^f^' ''/J?" human LppieM^ or whaterer«l8e wSl «^«^^?^ m-tl®'*'^^^^ this, the anatomy of a fly's toS! iMM.re.pecl«>» li. Miliir. of all ffiirfrSi'sJSlSSJSff ofl£r*mr ™?ii; - poBMwy at more poiou Hum one. and will uwi •uw mil luoreiure not this tract from Melville %■•■« ■««■■> *«JKi_ ^ _ ^^ _ ■ . .■ •ix.-. »' •«**"™. anq connexions or these islands mi. source of error ^offiri[vt^«'^«% '"' ''*'« o^""' •«* «> lon/tha „il- * I follow that he had seea all t^t larfto th« ^Lf**"^*?™ 'P9'*«nt. it must ParrVj thuB proves l now laid down by us as^lvinir to the ftJJiSlLi'i^i'XrV'^'L'^'iJ''^' *'°4"« ^"o 'and bjr Parry, wiU prow to bethitwh£h^«„ ♦ ^''j ?P?"»'"ek thus named *^9%SZi!^'t&^^^:i'^^ anf we wai then «• oriUcisms.whiohlamhereSS^hABi^^ the the east side of his bav whirKK»%o. ii.^5r '*"^> loiwitude u incorrect on eastward, it hLI^KM^n Si^LS°rfc ?"^^ *~? «»' ^ the ■ervations of modern nav^tors at thS nm^hifK"? r **"'"'^*°* with the ob- entranceofJLancaster wuiS aSdh««S%f^^^^®r*''^'*-' the the result w^djKKSSSe'SS'S^^^ thai tenS^r^"'"*^*"*®*'* ac '» - " tiaiJ"' ' , MfH^ iMtrqbdction'. M»«t partot thia jsaaat which I have bDrmed the wthmui of Boothu. LiSl*i It to the eaatward which they reached wai thirt even more, since the luft point uthtnua which I h^juat naineV/ cil!tde5fft&^u/Sy'°i2fe^^^^^^ *W. cWti- aufficifint, that Ihavo wn"tfuct4a chart he^ wpianationa iii- renderiniitmoteintelligibe. Fwillreauir«^^^ *''® purpo«eof and under8tandthatSt^h,t.hrf«ifS""e".!"!?''t^°n^ to consolt a«iund7r,tandthatch^buura^^ »St'Ki?2?.SK»'n^ Ln«u«f«??™l« »? the^pprecia! ■^■ t-r- m 7* -v.^-'^-^f****^. -^•».jfc. ■■ .j-'|.^.^.....,j.^^^-. I ;>" V' \c~ ■:m-^'' ^ .M' a. CONtEN'TS. V - CHAPTER I. * .'S'. l!heiir^eot of the Expedition Srful^Stfit, p. i. " ■ ' ■ ■ - ..-■■■•» CHAPTER II T» CHAPTER Vli' anrf ElWin Bay~The cSmDMsf- 1" S^'i'f« ^•««"* "In'«»-Cape Elwin Bay-Approach to Fury B^sa^&.w'l^^*'?':!''^^"^^ Adelaide & of ?£S'wr^U?"'?e ViS^Sr!?^ ^*°* ^°'«" '«" "^^ *»»« time tont' ^S^??fc£et^tte^2^r/^^^^^ coveries m^ ffi r^loffitS?J'';!?i''''i Shore-Several new D™ "«uio iuia pomea— UNtructed by the Ice, and moored, p. 62. -dHAPTER IX ""W: Sv:K^ Logan-Land'there- ^th HaKr?!^^ "^''^'^ Ice-ETwcovery of Eliza- :.L % »i o '•!\ ■if* I *■ -» ^ ^^i, « 8 5^ -/ ?/ ■>' .- M ?' t" "X XX COMTENTd. $&' C/HAPTER x> Attempt to quit Elizabeth Ha^bou<•-Slow ProgreBs* along Shore— Critical Position of the Ship amonff the Ice, and Escape through Perilous Pass- age— Discovery of Eclipse Harbour— Further Qi scoveries— Cape St. Ca- tharine and Lax Harbour, p. 82. . CHAPTER XI , A heavy Gale: Siiccession of Tempesituous Weather, with Snow^Partial clearing of the Ice, and extrication fronii it— Discover the Island ol An- drew Ross, Cape Margaret, Best Harbour, and Martin Islands— A new Bay— End of September— General Remarks on the prc^re^s of the Smp ana the mode or Navigating among Ice, p. 90. ^- ^ ■ CHAPTERXII. ^ . ' Remarks on the iSreseot condition of the Ship, and preraratioiiB to reduce the cncupbrance of the Bngine-Unrigging of the Ship-A successful. Bear Hiot-r-Ascertaiik that wo are truly frozen in for the Waiter— A Powder Magazine erected on Shore^Proviaions examued— The Gum and puta of the Engine hoisted out, p." 104. CHAPTER Xin. Remarks on the actual Temperature and «n tijat-o!" Sensation— Proceed in lightening the Ship-^The Engine finaHy landed, and the Krusenstern se- cured— Roofing of^ - . ' •" »-,A, :«- \~'~ / .a1 m til Ex- Snow ~ |t:r ■ . ^ ■' .. ^ immander 4 \ ' -^ ' ' CONTKN'IV*' CHA^TESR XXII. Proceedings in the Ship, qnd with the NstiTea,.p. IW* V CHAPTER XXni. Commander Rom' Second Jburnej and NarraUve, p. 192. xxt. CHAPTER XXIV. iiorvurc ui wwu.»«.m»~. Row OH a Third Exi- -^ lupture with the Native*— Commander Robs' Return, p. Iw. Departure of Cominander Row on a Third ExgeditlMhfrhreatening of a . Ruptoi - - — • '^ CHAPTER XXV. Narrative of Commander Ross, p. 190, CHAPTER XXVI. Repetition of heavy Snow— Another Expedition by Commander Ross— An- other Expedition under my own charge— Summary of the inontb 01 Apru, - p. 219. '. , ., ■ ■; !,■''■:• ■ - CHAPTEiR XXVIL Expedition commenced— Narrative of our Jowney— Return to the Ship— O^ BSrvations made to obtain the diffigrence of the Elevation of the Eastern and \. Western Seas— The dip of the Needle, and intensity of Magnetic Force, p. 224. / • . CHAPTER XXVEH. ..-^ Proceedings in the Ship from the First of June— Commander Ross' Return, ' - p. 234.- ' , . . ■■'■.. ^Xi CHAPTER XXIX. ^ Commander Rosa* Narrative, p. 23S. , CHAPTER XXX. ^ • ^ Continuation Qf the JonmalHSummary of the Monlli, p. w7. CHAPTER XXXI. ^ ^ ^ , . . An Expedition to Fish for the supply of Fish for the Crew, undertaken by my- self and party— Narrative and Retom, p. 263. ^ CHAPTER XXXn., ^ „ .... Journal of the Month of July— Summary ef the MonA— TransacUons dnrug August, and its Summary, p. 269. ' CHAPTER XXXltl. Warping out, Unloading, and Final Escape from our H"^"'r;Infff*?}«?* Movements among the Ice— Become fixed m the attempt to find a new Har- bour for the Winter— Summary of September, p. 27S. CHAPTER XXXIV. , _. , _ 1, Labour in Cutting thl%ngh the Ice-Become fixed for the Wmtet-Sumaary oftlielifonth,p.283. CHAPTER XXXV. Transactions in November— Summary of thatMonthr-IVoceedings in Deeem'- ber, with a Summary, p. 289. > CHAPTER XXXVL ^ * ^ **«li^ Transactions on Board the Ship in JamM|ry, 1831-Sammafy of tlmt MoDtm February: with its Summary. March: its Summary, p. 301. .CHAPTER XXXVII., ' , ..^^ April^An Expedition undertaken— Aeooont of this Jonmey-flamMMi uur MeMh.B,|0r. CHAPTER XXXVni. 1 ' Journey , p . «». — W ^} . \ ':-;*ea *- t?5* ■4. It l\», ^ xxii t CONTENTS. and deducTiona from thoBeTJ: 33}. ^°' «»e Purpose of assigning its place, Rcm«^(mtI»Assienment^?ffiig& ^'^^SSfe SoS, Ay?SXlmS^with tl,e Sununkrie. of tho.e /• ■ :^-' V-' ■ ■.■ V- • ■ ■ /.:-,.-- ./ .■ -■ ■ Journal of Auru8t-ThfiV.v?**^^''^J^ ^LVI. / Suounary of tl.e montl.IteA^ggi2.*^,/S -21^ '^Si^^tSi:^^^''^^ and u.*end «une work-Tlie Ship ia KSf p! m '^^'''"^*"'"'°*''™' "f "» ^. .♦ ^5W P^SJ^B^iSiig^SP^^-^ the1ce-Propo«U to Re^ Land tJie StorS^^SarJWLil •Ti"-^* "hore near feT? Ba?- wmens, p. 4(^'*^'"™«»afy of Augast-Abandonment of the Mineral Bpo- A MonthWournTaSiTuSSjWoreSiSr'.23 -JJl.!"!!- JH^ £^^ ^**> i \ COMTEMTS. XXIU » of the » place, / '^x -^ imnuay* X- fthoM ; to pro- 'bour— 3SS. Mend .^-■■^.^.* /v m J Pro- of the mu , . .. „ CHAPTER LrV. The Jonrnala of Jairaary, Febroary, and March, with their reBpective Sum- maries— Death and Funeral of thq Carpenter, p. 420. ' CHAPTERLV. April: the Journ{aand3ummary— Mar: the commencement of the Journeys intended for the future Expedition— June: the continuance of these advanc- ing Journeys— July: the Abandonment of the Winter House, and arrival at the Boats— Summary, p. 425. CHAPTER IjVI Aueust— Detention at Batty B^r^Thelce breaks— Departure in the Boats- Reach the Eastern Coast of Prince Regent's Inlet— Meet with the Isabella, and are received on Board, p. 439. . _ ■ . „ ', CHAPTER LVII. Proceedings onBoard of the IsabeUa— SuWey of the Coast— Departure— Ar- rival at Hull, and m London, p. 442. \ -. n » /r ultie* affled irjof 1^ ■ /,rVr' » -y • Re- ^ ■ 'm lay- Spo-' 1 thta ' ■'.•,* ■,.-.;v 1 ym*. ;. ■,...-^. -i- \, •*'■'" -PSHW . % -ij-j"'^*- ••* "**"' •*% -^r-*- * .■^ -ir. aabaequently, to^he Lord Hidi Admiral, the plan of the voyage which I am now about to relate.,^ I had lone been convinced that the navigation of the arctic a^'^ould prove more easy to a steam vesael than to any merely i^ins ship, and I for reasons which will, I believe, be foUy appreciatedby all to whom r this navi^on is familiar.. When the ice is opisn, or the sea navi- gable, it 18 either calm, or the wind is adverse, since it is to southedy , winds. that this state of things is owinc: so Aat the sailing vessel is stopped exactly where eveiy thing dse is in her fkvtfur, while ' . the steam boat can make a valuable prO|p«aa. The small drandit of water in the^e vessels is another advantage; their power can lUso drive them through bay ice where, except ui a fieah and favourable breeze, a sailing ship would be entirely impeded: i^ile to add to all, the £uality with which they can be moved, without wind, or m spite of it, must render it comparatively easy for them to avoid the inasscs of ice, and also fi> find places of shelter, where other vessels would faiL , This proposal was not, however, accepted: but being satisfied m^ the possibility of the expected route to the westward, through Prince Regent's ihlet, might thus be established, or otherwise, and the question, therefore, as far as related to a north'^west; pas-*- •age by tiiis sfirait, be set at rtst, J resolved not to abandon my deaign, witiiout making some further trials, in anoUier manner. . I titfurefore laid the scheme which I had formed, belbite Mr. '■■i ^ i V -1 - 2E . t ;; ' — : — ■■ '. 7" ■■'. "WORD VOTAOB OF WSCOVBKT • ^^S!l!^* '^ ""}? ""^ ^°*^te friend, with Whose liberalitv S^. "* ""' ""^ •• ""^ »"' ""y, ■»<>«• expedition. fnT« . wdlh.'^ per««Ied to .pply to Mr; Thornton of Old Swm, coSrtnMtion' mi?to«^ft^ht JJ'T'J »""<«'• Roberbon'. T«nh«r. ?™™« '"«■ fcer u London, tin the.aecdnd of No- Here ihema pnl into die handaof Mr Fni^ll ..•_'-.. • proviaioS. '^ "»e engine \nth the .necewary. complement of The engine was mii^e by BraithwartP «2?»^-:-v l • -patent contrivance- and thi, ™Si u ^ **^"**'°"» **"M5 a Sat they co3d £'lS«H 1 J^^u "^^^^ "^"^ " constructed WM nnu^3^r„£J^f!i^^^ '^**«' « « minute. Thert beUowa, Md itwM^of «Z?^^^ were kept in action by ,vr of Whi4 w«« h^L "-Z' • ^^ pre*ure engine, the boilei pn^err^ i4te: whuTdl^Sl^T' T* '^""^^'^^^g » proportion of had tauirhturtonS«SLf *«"»"»» n«ce»«»ries which experience --^ tl«»J&nimS?. "^^ ^'^ "°^««e- as this, werej^p^ied S " ■I . / '. * ^^ m B, ^ /. '. ■■^'^ ♦•.*»«.- «5^ ^ #*»«"-*~i*«Hure, I attendif^ at ^e Admlraltv. and took my leave: the -offieiu eng»nV> ^t x^*a^%m^i-ivL /i «. Geot^ Cockbura not.permittii: ship, ac had been intended. Amving at woi cdfent friend Sir Byam^Martin, Comptrolhs^df.the NavyL and Sir John PrankUn, on 6oard; and we we!t» afterwaitb hono3d bv ^e ^ *e(then) Duke of Chartmand a numdroiu suited 1 ■*^™" If the inqieotion of th© arrangements was a source of snkification toour viziers, my friend. weieL Uttie satisfi JTmySlfu^^^ It WIS to be a cause of hourly toiment and vexation to us W manv r*'^.'^.5L***«**» to tead Jo the abandomnent of o^e^f £LS SL^^^."*!"!*"* waduetofour engine makeri TheT been broucht by her steam povrer from the upper part of ( reach, to the buoy opposite to the dock; but W^nesl slow as to promise nothing but disappointment; v&itTi Mrty, a ijurt of hw machinery had become dinlaoed, so as i additiontd source of dehy. * r > •" oy ■» uovernnient, tocethcr with a spai^ foreyaid which bad been SwX^ 2ST5'.?P? Mr.Chimham Thomas, Caipente/of the A^ii? Jl^ u^ ^ vohmteeml^ the f«S?r on^^Sj ^, and the latter but a few hours before. Abemethv SbeeS lading man on two former expeditions, and ThomttW jSlv!^ ^^ *; Bor^ seas, J^e both'hS biS^^l"!^ JSfabfe »^L^ "^" \'^'^^ *»»«» two Wn aTfoSSl AdS.!f&^°* '^^^/ especiaHy cau«, to be gratofWtofce ^SSSS o^StP"*?^*.^** h«>d«,me««iner in whlS they were discharged on my application; leave of absence havine been «S^ «id theur names placed on the cheque at wSteh * ^^' It 1 1 \-y i T^" ^: I r I 8BC0KD VOTAOB Of DIfltiOVXBr h/ne?h^ °Inl??' ™^ «*««rvedly Esteemed friend Mr. Booth, with tenSnf ^'^^ ™°'^ genUemen, came on board, wittrtheia. " o^r W thST^'P'T"* ."' *° M"«»*«' »«d we ^ailed^^xTw Si Se wU t ^"•^"»t«'-? in tow, after taking in our gunpowdeT 2 ^ihUrJ^T^' Captain Beaufort, the An wlation tp find that our ve«el sailed, w?th thi Win^l.^^ J^^U UBMy ship in company; add in the mofnimr we were c^ Htol head, with Ae winH^NE, and comparaSyTl^r^aT^hJjh accompanied us m our passage of the Isle of Wight the saEie «vin ing.. At midnight, l^in. oAhe Bill of PorUanfuie wifcd ^L" had increased so much, t&at we ran some risk of losingiS^KnW -tern, m consequence of her being driven i^nst the quXrd^rTn^" ZA'^V" ^" d«*««t»W« Race, while rwere endX^^^^^ secure her by anoth^ rope. 26M.. In the following evXTK ^ The wind continuing in flie same quarter, but being W"mode, rate, we passed close to the Lizard, deared the RundleCa liS brfore daybreak, (27/A,) and hauled Up for the LoTshios the rved^'°fh"°^*^**y'*«»^"''^"'^ tEL last days ten em! , ployed by the engineer in examining the machinety, arid it was An. ^Sf.-^' *' °^ "^l ^^^ ^^^^'^^ the^toTi^Tn^ starboard side was «o much worn, as to require a pie^ tol^ Seized to 1^ to restore Us thickness, while the connecting k^s of ttieS shaft weraalso found,to be loose. It was plain thatltii^ SpS were^or ought to have b^ known to the mLtt&TwK negiigenlfe I* not supplying spare keys or any mode% remedvinff x?^j- ^ opimon niost unjustifiable. T ^ *reeimle.wbe^„g™i„rt.rt«dy foul Wind. xKSnTSi^J and as the wind had shifted to the EN V. ho«>» tJTL i^ "*'""«™*> the kejr,,iimu>*. ^ !k! lower deek woulcfnot let out the Zter frem 5..?^"^?V" ^ r-v^/eri^crr'"**"^^ '^"^ "^^ ^^^^ *» the^Spper^wWcS now say, bein(perfecUyUlessrwe^;ere ^^^ SiSn?*'^ '"*"?' ''^ ^^ ** mortification to fin? nit o^lH rteadily adverse breeze, but that we were beaten by every v«Lt that w« saw, so ill did we sail upon • wind. W Se SL June, we saw the 8mm*a light, found ourselxMuiiff Wieklntir XI ^Tu"^' ."? ^ *^ *^^^ ** *^«" blowi^fi5.^:S£rtS Sfi^^n^^L""''*^*"^^^ ^•n'^ ^ *"* "o^'ng we came to wehor in DouKlas bsv- wl.«« rtUldesireus to make wiother attempt with Z enXf Ih^^ SSfSSr "f*^':"!?*^ « to cSstruct two Z keyaX'S •haft } wnting also to London and to Liverpool for a supofv «f othJr -pai^ones, in case we should at all sueS^in car^fKs Sa chinery further on our destination. We were heredetoinSf Ji« days, yet losing nothing bytiie dejetitkm; »in^7t btewa st^ from die north-west the whole time^rhile 'we were Zs ds?T ^^«^h'S ^T^yf ^^> vegetables, and water. ^ T ^ Aswe had had good opportunities of ohiervin« theefBm-irAf our rigging during our p«Sge, we found tbatTJ?DrS^nt^SS^5 ^managing Ae after «uls%dmitted of ^L Trn'S^eL^^fl therefore purehased some spars, together with »m"^^te .^ place the «quM« swl, whieJ^e haSlost during Z Tv^-lL!!: ^ «oe,v«^^e vi«t^^ma«y friends, J^S^XSo,^ i--e ■■ ^! wsi* 10 8XC0ND VOYA«X OF OncOVSKy y » !#■•■""": ^ which ^cor^T^^^^ir^ Z^/^'-f *°«^°^^«^*^«'' morning J enabfine wto wSJh 5 u**^ '^''? °" *« foUowing breeze Urn SSiSZ^^.TnJ^':^^'^^ "V^ o'clock, with f but, the wSd 4°ngS: ma^ ifiSr^ ^""^ ^^^ ^'^^ °f Mannj en^e .. we hS "S^^'Jf '^^^^ ^orldng the' appmhw. YeVeven CSicSed^^n^r- ^ cond«^ng strokes in the minute, and tiBH^hK °'»*"'"ng only fiReen pairawhiktheTSwiaTZl ilK^"*^**"* ^ '» which W^^™.S^£Sd'^,S''X''"'™'^'^ fixind «Mt we could eaalr SfcSi«,;^ f ^^™'. "* "•" a.t we could th„. bTS ^w^^^^^J'^*5™^'?'l auring the haS rtrS^^ S ^® t^^' '^ *^* ^^ ^» cn««hed, hibiti. %ie Sne W?« aoul^^ manner which it now el-' 'muscle- and 81^ wSVdl^„SarS\'' ^""^t^^^d the acarcely held to«ethM^««!^,M L v*^* '"^^ P*^ "^ t^e limb thatitdemandT^itaZTi..^"°^^^^ »« determining gicAl reading had^tt^'rl " ^. ■» n»y opportunities.Df sur? for,ni.n^S^oX5on U^^^^^^^ ,''"'" °"«ht to be lost 'in J2^ mid h3 not jTm us: be^^^^iJ: T.f'TP"' ^'- M^lSr- ?onsort; so ^IriSaSS myVt^^o^^^^^ ItwasweU that fc^mTlloJ^TL^n^^^ f It ,; ■;. '^' to TBI AioTic nmototn. '^ '^■ together with thelnedicine che^t; and a berth having been imi for our unlucky patient, I have only to say that Idid. a« 1 could, what seemed necessary, as far as ray want of enabled me to do it; applying the tourniquet first, ana ' with the tenaculum and lisatures, the only two arf couM^pd, while I cut off the injured muscles and u a way^^I hoped sufficient to remove the dead and parts, andHo leave material for producing a decent stu tortunatel^, the amputation saw was not to be founA so^ was not onlyunable to remove as much of the -bone as I ooHifc^ JSlTtHPf*^ ^ ^^^^ th^bwken enmity in a sph^S^ 8tatej.to the further care of tl^e surgeon whom I wmecteTto S this case, I may now add, that as we reached the l^nd so asTpS our^pabent under proper surgical care before any materS-?n. flammation had occurred, that which I cBSId not finish was com pleted without difficulty; so as to' leave, in the end, I ^uZ which, though not such as to have done much credit to a aZSL' has not finally prevented this mutilated engineer from retorSjito his^ongimd employment in the establishment whence v^ jjSd . '^i°«*^'«»tf«3;*at I should have been much mow it mv ease ^^^ in cutting iwayhak a do«n masts in a gale than in Sua «"LS the effect whidi this occurrence, vexatious and painful as it^ to me, produced on the men. The arrangements oriie mSicaUbeS and instruments, the neatness of eve^thin* and the^nZS o^'e auply, with, I W, the furth^conwL^^^ good wiU to be rendered more efectual as soon tTttMnnZl that nothing which could conduce to their comfort had been^ riected: as, k this feeling,¥found an ample eonfiSia^n^ wK^ Ihad lonr before read in fife work of ffonsieur Lairev rwrneS mg the efect of his exceUent medicdlrnmgem^t-^Se^i of the farsighted wtdier under whom his sy. -—-Sw-- !3r '*)!!''"'*<«M Itt 4- SSCOiro TOTAOB OV OIBCOVKRT Sf J^^"^ "' "^ -f '*^°"' obrtruction, and evil. ^ «^ Ad^ndeed i»ove quite accurate; but aom6 of the joints/^^ and mth such efiect, that in ten mlmitea Sie fire was extinj and the (!n|ine stopped. ^ ^ " fli^r/'^^®'^^ *'**"'*•* had changed against us; and as SLT "^ ^°'^* ^"""^ TBm^ned no pixM^t of gaining efi»2 ' STi^ii tSf i'^'5''^ r^ll***^ *°^^^^ ''^^ W-h shore, in hopes that the wind would shift more to the westward. These J?!!J""''!f2'°""t*^'^t "^ ^« »'»'* the furtherSo;tificatiS of seeing all Ae vessels which we had passed, repass us: mT to con^nce u« of the necessity of improvinioriwn'M^lingq^ nf ?i!f*i.?L**' morning we contrived, to fetch within four miles l^.t^PT^^'^ **•*" ^"K m our favour, reached PoroS! . SonA S 1 °*^ * fu **•» ''"^"*"' '^**«' »* the «°d of the pier, tho^ It was now thmsquarters ebb. This, formerly caUed fort ^i?5o1^AT",f rxP'"' harbour, consiucled atie SST. Jf. -S? *i^ M'Booall, of LoBui, on the south side of a spa. «2**fy' "*«?*«* »>ne™J«« north 0? the M«U of Gallowav. It^ «»b*y,«wd 1^ the watchhoose and flagstaff on that to the south. fornung the stiition of the coastguard at this place. There isTod ho^g.gtOHiid in^ the bay; ^d ships may choose tlSTd^^^ M^ since rtihojdsfrem thirty to tSreefakms. liTZreto ^^I^^^^^k'*? u"**" *° ^^ north-west winds. It is a i^TX vwitage here, that ships can run for the pier, though at hSftide • sim», even at low water, it ha. seven 4»t, a^, in Z former Ze' tij^«re fourteen, which at spring tideVis i^cre«ieJ TSa^l ^Zi: "'»^"fr"» ««*««"& as eveiy thing is visible ; anlwX S?dS^.?!?^"&i""JJ» °^»ht hours, on the Sorth side, i vessd hS nod^culty in MUn^t This is decidedly the be^t lirtourTf ISSjS^Tf .tef** '^^ *"» ***'-l»rt «^the coast; deriS^L_ oZS^ t\.^Z^ pn««mity of thTlighthouse on the MuST^ JdSdrX i **^ computed that a brealwater might be erected ' SJmL •! T.'£^ " '''''?'^ '^^ ^'«<^' 5 «nd -houlJ this ever be 'bo^r.l^liSlL':^^ Before entering the pier, we were boarded by Mr. Harvev. the offi^of the coa-teuard, with an offer of his services; aTJ*wM olr^P^^"' *° my hou«» at Stranraer, where he was put undertS ^ a^^f RrtZ"S?^"'Jf^^?"-'"»^' and that orMr.w!l^-- tTlJuS: if' '^ho completed the operation which Lwas obliged to leave imperfect, w^ attended him kindly to a cure. I must mt =»f= 319" I mi inHer .iir*^ ^"il *® 'S?^ f thii spirited fellow, aeanum thouxh he %^ not, Without adding, that while he found Us wiy upWtw^ l«ide«of^ enriiH, room without help, and made no^ipWi^^t any tame, the oiJy it«»t he esprtased waa, that he ahould^now notbed,e^go«nthe«pedition." I nright weU W, „y°^J being obhgfed to feave behind such a man aathia. '«™'»'°y»e"r Ha^ foUovrod Hardy to my house, that I might see him nro- periy dii|K>sed of I sent for ]VIr. Thorn, to whom Kad^onfiL^^ mjn.^«.t of Ae John; when I had the vexation to ^&Z tam,that her officers and men were in a state approaching to mu- tiny. Tabng advantage of our delay in going on bSard. it wmJTh ^2^ see in the lo3s of the x,ffiLrs Vn^nXtMr'^^L Sf\^ fejr unwillingness to go on this expedition was but too true; the latter appearing disorderly and dirty, m they skulked and ^^1;^"' **,*^'I- ^'i'*«i«g it therefo^'nec^T^e t^ an immediate explanation, I went on board the John, and order^ S»*dSi^i^"^ It^enex^essedmyrcgrelatCdin^ was diaaatidaetion among thfcm; but as I dai*d%ot suniiose tlurtS P«ce^ fi^f^, I t^stad that a little e«J^^^^ ^^ding. Having myselfsaUed from Gi«enock, I had ♦?''°!L?1? '*°"1** ?*^ '^^ ™« ^ ^ono^tB and W ♦ilT^^^!i '^^ u^ the advantages there could be whJnh f uJTa Sf J^owledge which I possessed and the plans which I had adopted. It was true, that the^eason miirht aowirto > them somewhat advanced; but independently of Se^KanteS^S :?S5,^TtS.t* ^U^' ' knewrwell Jher« to SJXSi;" l^U^!^- T'^^ "^^ "** 'J""**"" ^^ «"r "«««^ «nd that ^ should noj, m the end, pi»ve a day too late. I thei^re exm^ ' I^"'?** *?*^ '^°"*** '^t"™ to t'H'i' duties, andnrt D^SIn :^t^^;^ZT^' bringdisgi^hoinrSlS nifi^l?"!"' t P*"? ^- P^' '^^^^ "^ «>•»« interehange Of si#-* n^cant looks and whisperings between the mates and tWW boatswMn stepped forward, and afW caHing on soiToS^^iSn h^, obsenreithat as the se«»n was so fcTadvanoelSe^C willing to eo without a fresh agreement; a resolution j7wJ^S k «»» f 14 "■ ■ ■ •■■■ ' - SECOOT) VOTAOB Of DttCOVSay j ml ^m m J • . ■ m" • . P '' ' • N " ■- P-" :■ • u ' v,.\; \ 4 . KI w« soon convin^^J Sf t«°*^ '^^°"'* the aun^er, thfe,«iiceit w«8 iny^t}^i * fears were even deepwMftan. ^^OM, had I intended^o k^5S!S "ir*^ ""^^ "^ monSB'W fee the poaaibUity o/^h M L^f^ S-^S^f' *?' «^« ^id I fe Victorjrat Port Lo^^ m^h ia^°l*°'I^^ »t»y of S we ahould join, anfSey ^m£^3 ^^ ^ hoped tlit when ari»Migfrom the preaSE rfTi.2^ ^ eomprehend tKTadvantw* oerouT ag^pement ^ woiua retm;^ trf their duties un- ^ «»Sr:i^J:^t^^ ^" -^^o» of time; and the boiler, together wZfc^/SS ? ^""l?* ^^^^ "^^ which, it was now evideSl eWSL^?"^®^ *°' *^"^°8 *h« ice; worL. We thus got rid oSi^r^^en^^^^^ ** ^ »«*°o ti lumber; replacing it bv thr^ W-^r ?°' o^what was,noW mere (I^I wis, visi'U by WfrW? i T^'i'J^^ ^^ foMoWing ^ byotherti,rei.tioMi,7S.no;S?r' ^'Douall, «5oompLii «t«nti«l present to CoiTo^nZchJ^JT^^'^'^ "- withoutVaub- oneof the best Gallo3^Se f™if tS*""" *^^^^ shape oC evening we cart off JJ^XJ^^^J ^^^.1?*^ ''^' "^ ^ *^ «««rtguard, #ere towed roimd £f i,S?t «??^ **** assistance of the from the B6itth,eaW. AteS S f^«i °^ ^#"' ""''^^ • ««ht air Mop the tidSff Port KLe^Hi «Jm»i»nJ we were obl^ to the north-east, we weH^aU JT^iJiS ^ '^'^i? ««ht Wze ifrom .we« again.compelled to sC fte bS ?^T^ ^^^ «o that we : These delays allow^ufMS?^*®'*^o,manner. .damage alreJyrS^^^^ ' when we found that the faaur^SS^^^M^S*^.^" T" boUers, . iron cement which had beeA ,,IL^ "^. *'"'®*y "» that of the while the eflgineerl2dneSrhS„°r""5«f"o of thejbints; wWi.the maSnWfoJSSSL^lf^^f^oftW^ norpiivided heUows, with the toach^Cbdonriit f?'! ""^ ^^' "^^^ ««»*« thorough impair, as Wffi^T^Sr* ^ '^^ '^ also in need of a be exc*used'fo,;n"d^ling o^tfTenaTT ^T^^' ^»' ' "»"»t at present, further thrto*XSS^e^err^P"^^^°i5'«»»^^ ' more that we must consiaTiuradi^ Z ?.f^ convmceJ* us itiU ' our saUs, for s^ch P'-fiaS^iinit^.Tli i "^""^^ as dependent on . make. . ' ^iP^ '^our good fortune to b^,asitf«c.m,C^tX^mJ5:^e»^^^^ • -JSL. ...»-. -^;:*«-- iro TBJB ABOno UOI^ 15 jiBg (12M), when, favoured bv the breeze and aflowinc tide^ we «tf j^ng^ide the John, living taiea M.. Thorn onCie 5^! . ing before, on making the Loch. ^ V . , "*"'»»«« The Victpjy beins now idongside of the^ John, tod her cr^w nuiged on the deck, f again went on board. WCthe Wa ^ called,.! exi^ined at conaidei^ble length the a4yaSa^S w3 obta,n,and that laid not entertain anintention of k^g E^t tiJ!^^ '^^ ^"' -eeing that aU I said waa wiSout e^L I l^TTlf ? r^ "^''' bylemarking that such coward^ the • men of Ae John were not ^orthy to accompany auch nUant ffel- lowa aa.themaelvea, eyen to the edge of the™^ Yet mUwm Z> ' S«?^ tikat I ahould prove a positive act of dl«)b^^^" "£ - Mred Mr. Comb, the maater, to order his crew to aarirt ouH in rT ' ' moving the ^ke. Thia wiaWuaed at once by Sb^X^S^ " aanietmiecdied en those of the Victory to i4ith^i^\«tt^^ :. upforaean^en'«,ri^ht.,-«itheye,p,e^T?^r^^^^ which I r^ed pn hoard, and a(br pndaing theiS as Aev^ ' merited, both for this and aU their other irood coSuS. n^J3 - ^ ^ we should «ul. by ourselves, and leai^th^w^yt^nS < own proweding* fhia proposal Was received with ^reTcW ^ entirely d«concerting the mutine«h, who had beS^lS I S - 4 tSt JXT"*""' "^' "^ "^^ ""^ *^^^ ^ ^^ was still necessary, however, ear^ had fallen ovS! , ThM drama having thus termin.L • ^i^^^ ■"■**»ned. — duce four of the VijWs mer?^^ ?^?*.*°*'^^^^ """mpt to iei make a.tegal cdl oi the master te!Zr ^u* *' "^^aiMd for me to him, written oixIerto«uTS?l!^&" J" <»Pti«ct, and tolww Aw^over to the agent^r. OughterLT^t Lf^'^*' ^"^^ ^e to wnto an account of theie nm-Li- ^^*S? »»«»«My «!» for I added UrtteM on thlsim^f^^''lP^^''^^^^ £?^^ fcdge, after my ifetarn from &2w !?"^^°^y «V«e *« myfaiow- f may prove, to those X i^ bu?^«:^'?"«»*^ WhawX justice which it becomJSj ^^.^f to pwnoffn^ on JS toon, It served to satisfv us thS-?k j ?*»*"hute, even in inuurina- «f our intended coSS^^in^d'iS^ i:^»«^ "othingby ttjp th«e which ultiSly b^u.'^^r- '^'^ ** gt^atorevS J^hwh u, our ahort8igh<^2»^2;^^?"" *^*^*' Uie events «ite» mtended as ble^^^^ "^^ •" ** "P*, to view as evil., are fun rJ^^!!^^^^ *1^^»' under th^^me «^on., saHed to B^T^ 'T^ 'Ti'. '«^°8 °ne O' tw™ jauses which have JeZJZ to 1?^^'"« expedition. From *«ard, attended by thed^thrf Sjl^g^ A "f?^ took pla^ on «tanoeg ^i^ We not yS h^ SSSi °?*i' ^^ u»der dreum- ««lerstand. The mate, wk a l3i ^ explained, as far as I can fame timej tad havin* n!!^ ; "u" «"'«'>'^ere expelled atOe have perishedS 2l ?1 ^'"T ^ heonl of, «?.uppo^ ^ of the Spikesoneer, CafS^A 5*'* P?* "«*«' the J^SuS most of the crew w^aT^Y^'^J'^ ^ the we*m coast when ^-whicHL^^S^ hein^^^ J -I* TO TH> ABCTIC BKOIOITB. 17 CHAPTER III. i#f'< i^ZocAf JJi^on-Gflfe ^ Wind off Mla^ and Loss of the hj mutinous crew, I returned on board fie Vietoiy, wh«re tte ^?'jr?u*'*^"P**^ *** removing the coke and aome other rtoreB jAjch had been entairted to the John as our consort and stoiSS ^occupied the best partof the following day; and, at six k^Z . ewnmg, all bemg ready, I cast off and stood to sea wi£\ liSt breeze from &e south-west; having takei^ leave of aU our friends on H^iJ^"!-— ^ TP^.?°« *^* ^"'"^ management of our patient Hardy; receiving the ^eers pf Captam SharM and his men. whose eountenance «,daid m been of ^i servK, us duJing theTT bles of the preceding day. 14/*. On the morning of Sundav it w^ calm, and it noon the l/uU of Cantyreborenorth,VSof AiS beanng east; when a fresh breeze from the south-west, ^th a ft. vourable tide, carried us rapidly through thTnorth ChanudT It was at the first moment that we found oufselves settled and at peace afterjhe distarbances of the preceding days, that I took SL ?'?1r;^ of exprossing to my oficers «^ ciSj, the pS tade 1 felt for the support whioh-all had adbided iie, aS^ decknng my entire confidence in them through the fut^ vov- S!.kK*^u"^"*'J^'y* *»'«•»' '»«'*«"Jn^ to contend with, AV * STnilf * ?T lu ^r^V^ ««i also thanking them for the eon- S.J5 nl; ?rT ^ the defection of the John must now,;£ th^ could notfaiTto be sensible, aflfect their peeuaiary interostsTainw for wi^; IJ?**^ '^"*** ^ "^ ^'^^'y cwried onV ouwelves d^ «LT of /towage. As it was theroforo no les^ just than neces- SLS n?" «>"l°»«n«» under a right mutual undeitanding on the Si-'S ♦h •^•«!!' ' P~E°?J ^ ^"^ P*y "^O"" be setUed^cco^ "liL^ %'k?^°«'"H'**'° doiieirie former voyagesTZ: Z?^f ^>J*r"j:§*«» to without Hesitation, and w™«ro«s^ «^ west; tKe latl- / tade observed at noon being 56» 23' N; In the evenina: w« w^ I enabled to add tl«^fe4 fSresail; but a. the sLwT;^^^ wejdehttfejmi^ During the nkht we stootfto^^^^ \ ward,inc<>BS^uenceof the wind having Wked to the west: butin / Uie nMWfing of the ITUi it became northerly^ and we again wore. Atwjven we saw the Bishops isles, together with Tire/at a creat distance to the north-east , ^ «5.«m. ♦h Jilf; «^\^"i#^"aJJy decreased; but the sweU conUnued, and» tte ship laboured^ so much as to prevent us taking any steps about T^PP^ T^u ^* "^^'^^K'^* »* f«" ««1«; and^the^sweUhaZr . abated on the 18th, we contoived to secure the rigging on thefoS nivAt°"?rt' ^"? V ^* ?P"^ which'^^been b«,k^ • Ai^^^t *^^r.^^ ^°**'' •"•* *•*"■ "^"«*d » length, was pointed un" jnd tte hed being secured by a lashing to theCw maSa^t«^^^ fr *5^° n **f ",«8»nfr there was su£9cient length remaining to set the top«ilUu|t sail as a topsail. No sail could however be set on tS pole, w^ch was sprung about halfway up. At noon Malin head was in Aght to the south-east, and the observed latitude was 5a«» ft? - 14 iN., the longitode by the chronometer being 7" 40' W. On this • S^^L*^?**" ^^"^ e*PWed in making^a trunk to carry fte fiiSl >„^ V*^*"* °^ °'»'' P»«»ge down t& river. It was saS- fcctoiy to find that one pump had been sufficient to keep the A^ SJr;n2^!?«J?*7*'°*? °^ ^"* ^'^ ^^""^ ^^ ^^ obliged to^hSS tLTli^r^^ f r«' •*' " *^" ^*^' l^««e iess^imperiou!, Z^iT^ moderated, we were convinced that the principaTSk must be somewhere above the water Una ' nr^^itf °? ^i" ^*^ *** '^'''? "^ ■*"* *^^««» ; "Mid as we had every l?^ >\. w^i^V. 20 s«coiiD vorA«« OF lUicovtar the old one to be stepned on^£ i * / ^"^ foremiat, or to ciuto southward, and at nnn» « *" ***" «tenUon I atood tn tkl head AboatnpwcameoflfwWchw?^* /'''^''^^M^ a^odaupplyoffreah fiah. The wi^^'T^u^''"^^ '^« obtained <^«wiV entirely at 6 p m wh!n ' '^**"** ^" "O''^ variablT entrance of the Lh ; but It Sfn, '^ .^^ .^° miles from S2 ^mng up from the wuSZ^h^wJ^"* '"T^ "ne^tedl? !^ both ti;^l5E^*i^ln>i±?*"^^ h-y^nough,!.^ «dourtour8etefnrtrli*'^"r^«°«y- NotwitiSanSn^lS veiy little ^aterri^ch a? J°^"'^*'**' ^*°^ cumatance, aird bV tSm^L^r '"*"'*^ '^^ « ^wte^ channel, we werfeainnT;„?^*^^^.**^°f completely cleum?^ •P^" WM performed on ftir!..?!?' "t^' *<» "-ilM. ffivS. more modeniteiand at!nTo I f*"** **> the Wh-eaat beinir m.«.i. yot marked in th^ ehuTaa^^: *»r ^'° *h« '^omi^J^^'^ fethoma. lT^rtat«7^^^.t^^ repeat thia trial at ao fflLT^^*?'* "^ ^°^^^y pemit ua to nin waa loa m;i»- *u: ,8W«t « depth. The diirf-««-' *Z:T', * *• repeat thia trial at «o ^t^TL.V" "^ however, permit~ua'ir !.i!-."-A-^^'i-i,whi^^^ !^J-«?"* • — - u i- ■4 TO TlilB Aicno iioioirsi. ..-.-■.■■ ^"'V„ ■-■ ai «»n». In the •flehioon of this day we n>t ud our nram^r fnr». iSi' T^"tS',S^ .vnth the fower«:„d 'iopmrSi'dar Jl^'h 1^ ZfJ^ ->n^^-r.Uy abated, a«d theJ^ind wa. no"^ Ae. aea contimiwl to decrease, and we employed S Mr^nL^f fitting up a dispenaarjr for the «irgeom The eoS^??^3 dSon^hOuTww^ W«^t,''T ^"rth«- put into the best "on- m«to: thK^kt^.^^" " ~ *° P^P^ "^'^ ^^-^ the alteiW lowr we mi.rhll„^«*^ "*® "** *'"'^ '^'»*° '* ^" uncertain h^ «5/x o^I®°J°y °"' P'®*®"* ''"nquiUity. l^ork oT^Sr?*l„J^ c«penteni and englS^« continued their tUf little^ wTlfC^r? il: ""'^ *" '««W'«T. on the foJlowinTdrv sSiA^ Witi^**!**^* O-'tatituS the chrono^S s?*w %7?- r ^ ^' "»•* ^ longitude by wefound it -«fficieS?y°Sl" to dlow^ t^^^^ ^"'^"^ "<*»& »t, Close leefed. Tbw ^ a«^2^ i *5 *' *** P~P«>* *»!>«"» on ?aii,whichir[K»;«SLd^aZ^T^j'Jr "^""^ *«p?^»«»* in its proper place. P^ "°*® **** accident, was dso Mt . «-^t?;XSS^^ than a fine !««e ■ome of the •homZ* W^ .«Li5'^ ^"T" ^« ^ »^ -"vw nen mat Bad attended us. and now «H^f»>nnin>d ' W • ■'■-'»-. : sa SECOND VOTAOLOr DISOOVCftT ■-3# ■fif. llo try whether this bird was not eatable* in spite of its bad reputa- tion, since it might be important for us hereafter to increase our re- sources of this nature, and to know to what we might trust in case of our coming to short allowance. We found them excellent, even in a pie, though the most supicious mode of cookery for meat of such "a nature, and were glad to -find that we need iJOt even be forced by hunger to adopt a food which, if it never did more, would at least afford us variety. And I will now make this remark ibr the benefit of all who may be situated as we have often been, whatever use it may be turned to by those who, not knowing want, may find in the sea birds a source of variety or luxury. It has been overlooked by every one, that the fishy flavour of all tbese animals is confined to the fat; the whole of which also is lodged immediately under the skin, and is chiefly situated on the haunches; The muscles are always free of any oily, or rancid, or fishy taste; io tiiat nothing more is requisite than to skin the animals, and es- Ecially on the back, to render them undistinsuidiable from a id bird. In tlus way even the connorant and ue puffin, stron^^- tasted as they are, can be cooked in any manner, without tiie possi- bility of being recognised for seafowlv In fact this is equally true of many land birds; and in Sweden, where the cock of the wood and t^he blaok cock feed on juniper and fir, especially in win- ter, they are often scarcely eatable, from the flavour of turpen< tine; while that is entirely removed by the same mode of treat- ment, W) as to render them a very acceptable game for the table. I believe, however, that I most except the moUemoke (fulmar peterelj; since, in this bird, Hhe fat is so mixed with the muscles, that no contrivance can rid them of their delectab^ flavour. /^ 29th. It being daylight soon after three in Uie morning of thi« day, 'a light air came from the eastward, and we set' all our sails. Yie had seen an Icel^d hawk last night, and now observed two finnera running to the north-east The carpenters were again sejt to work on the. skiff, it being Monday, and were also employed in making a jigger-mast We had made but twenty miles in the last twenty-four hours, being the worst run we had had since quitting the Irish coast; but* in the evening, a breeze came from die eastward, which continued during the ni^^t, and served to help us on considerably^ At sunset there was a shower of rain; after which we saw an iceblink bearing north-north-west, the coast of Greenland being computed to be about 230 miles off in that direc- tion. We also saw at diis time many of the birds called boat- swains, besides our former attendants the shearwaters aiid moUe- mokes. On the thirtieth we had freshf breezes an^ cloudy , weather, with the wind from the north. All sail was set; and the carpenters finished their work on the boat and th^jigger-mast Tl^ fresh beef of the bullock wl^ich we had killed was tins day exhausted: but we ^ V w ■S^ -i ■'ii TO TBI AIOTIO aKoiom. ft def litUe consequence. _ 1 he landblink was now veiy^™**^^"* . . .. ^ discerned the land itself, wh«£h' r-^ - 'oj and in the evenihg we ^coAceived to be Cape Farewelk" minf nro HOP QA' 'KI .nJ aoO Aet The la^tude and longitude of thj^ point are 59° 38' N, and 42*' 45 W, whUe our own, at the time that we saw it, wei^ 58° 8', and 42« 30 ; BO that^resuming these several thinni to be correct, our dis- tance from It ihust have been about 31 leaiues. Dunne this dav Aeiemp«rature of the air and of the sea feil>ree degrees? the air being 46" and the water 47", at sunset r "i ' On ihis day we began to keep our regular register of the ther- mometer evew two hours, though unfortunately losing one at the veryiirst trial, through the unhandiness of the mate. The wind wu frbmi the easrward, but there were evident signs of a chanire *•»"* to happen bSfore no long time should be pi.t JT'* ' T ^"M* completed a fortnight of fair wind* and. With It om- run W the point of our last departure. Loch SwiUy to Cape Fawwell. Towards the evening, a. we had foreseen, the wmd veertjd to the northward, and our vessel coul^teJonirer lie h«a- course. We now passed the spot wheife the HMInd ^per had been on the thirteenth of June, 1810, afier havingleft>air island W ^df"?^^ «^ May; and as we had taken ou? own departure . from Loch Swilly on the eighteenth of June, it followed that we ShmS^i^^^''*'' *^ • °'' ^ «Peditton, in nearly the same run _ We haTserved out to the men, on the first of July/ an allowance ^^^Jj "?'"fe*^ ^^'?'' """^^ we were now to encounter. S l?le, a pair of wadmal hose, a pair of flannel drawers, a Welsh wir, l^°\'^^J^^^^'>^^^^^o{caTpethooU. Thejacketsofthe ^^^ir^^ ""^r" ""^"^ '"«^/^y distinguished so that our equipage had altogether a very uniform and orderly appearance. :> ■-4 ■:;v. ' .) \ w ) i 94 SEC<]^]> VOTA«a ov Dn^foVIAT These clothes, with exception of the boots, were a present to the "»«°J ^ a reserve set for each was ktfpt in store, in case of need. ad. Our new jigger-mast had been got ready on the second (ves- -teW^rtogethei-mth^wrtea^^ out-nggpr; and, after examining our run, we found Tit to.'be ninety- six nailes, but unfortunately on only a south-iyest coi^be. Thus, on this day, we found ourselve* in latitude 57" 47', and in lonmtude bv account 46» 53'. The temperature of the air at midnight M beeJ 41 , and thpt of the sea 43«». After making i^boarxl^ to the^^south- west, we tacked at 8 p. m., and stood all night to the northw»rd: so that at noon on, the next day, we found ourselves in latitude, by ob- serwtion, 57" 59', and longitude 47" 31*. The w«ather vtu hazv. •nd the winds light and vanable. , *"«• "p "^y» L M \ j^'- c- ./ ¥ /•■ < MpK'- • "4$ f : I / •«■' W jf^J'/K--. TO THE ARCTIC BBOIONS. 25 1 • t CHAPTER IV. %" Off Cape Farewell-First Icelerg seen^-JlbraJt of BaaVs River— Sight of Sukkertap— Land and Islands near Wide- ford seen— A Codbank discovered— Mountain called Old Wo- fnan^s Hood— Arrival at an Jlnchorage. July 5th. This day, being Sunday, it was calm during the whole morning. At half-past ten, the ship^s company was mu&red, as we were then just entering Davis's straits, being offCape FareweU. The weather being cold, and the men in their warm dresses, we for a moment forgot that we were n&w in the very midst of summer and in its hottest period; scarcely even thinking of the contrast be- tween our own situation and sensations and those of the friends we I had left behind. After divine service, a fine fair breeze soon sprune I up, and w^ secured a piece 6f fir timber which was passing us: the f fragment of some ship, since it was full of treenail holes. It was Covered by difierent marine animals, and was therefore a prize to Commander Ross. At eight o'clock this evening we were going at the rate of six miles an hour, and bur rate increased during toe night so rapidly, that we were at length obliged to shorten saiH chiefly on account of the Krusenstern, which we could not conveniently tow along under any considerable velocity. We now distincfly saw the hmd, which we supposed to be Cape Farewell, about thir^ leagues distant, and near it a number of icebergs, bearing north-east by north. Gth. The breeze cohtinuihg favourable, we had .a prospect of making ourselves amends for the former two baffling days, and now passed many pieces of drift lyood, but under too rapid a motion to allow of our securing any. Our latitude at noon was 59« 33', and longitude by the chronometer^SD" ^'j so that we found that we had made 140 miles in the last twenty-four hours. The temperature of the air was 48°, and that of the water 44*j and there was now no land insight •<^ 7/A. The breeze still continufed till three in the afternoon of thia day; and we found by the log, atfeoon, that we had run 138 mUes t since the preceding one; but as the haziness of the weather pre- vented us from taking any observations for the chronometer, we could not form a more accurate computation. As the latitude, how- " ■ ■'■■ ■■'■ ^ ■ " ■ ■'■ — '■'■■' " ■ ' ■ i i .— — ■■ ■■■ „- ■ II , ?— ..■■.■ # "'• > ♦ . .1?' rJ" V 1> i um .> * ■ <.,.. t J-.iNK»«t^..,t^',^ /«»yiV),-^<.*» l ^< ^^„^ ) J >r ... > •• '■SCOND VOrA0E OF DISCOVERS fe JJSi: '^ii"^ '^ "'^ ^3'' ?^^ fo"r "»"«» more of northinic on a _,^Bjl^ 80uth-south^8t In consequence of th/s swell we ^re ^bged, m the eveqing, to shorten sail, by takinR inX mL^ST dS^'S^cSlJ^^ -placing the .ain^l^^Jhythf^tud' half nni"if ^'^ '"°'" -l^* "^^ ^^^ ^^^^'^^ *e coufse to north-west nnJ^K 'J^^ ™*"'*'*"' having found this to be northHBasrbv ll™!-i. j"??^, 1".* *'^ "'"«'' mrawured twenty-one feft ••> eiB^^a^i* S*'';k'"'?"« P'T^^ ^°' *»>« »«^t»de, we found it to be 68 36, and tho longitude by the chronometer 54° 31' Th! fermi in «ha uZT • 7^ ** *°"'^° "*** » gannet pie was nre- .--,«.dii^a:r.„rrf'"tK':r.strr. - J:. ■ '■' ».■■ ^ . * •< / . ■,•■■■ \-^ '■■■■' - ' ^- .■ ^ ■•■■■,■, ■ ^ IPO THB ABCTIC RBOIONSJ W ready for use aa^Ihad anticipated a few dayk before. The gW of the forcing punip had taken much more time than was expected, though the engineers and armourer luid been steadily at work. The* carpenters, however, contrived to G^ the new davits, and we got out one^of the six-oared boats an' ***® weather was thick and foggy, and it was blowing, fresh. At daylight we saw a strange sail standing to the eastward; she seemed a brig, but we were at too great a distance to make out exactiy what she was. There was too much swell to ad- mit of divme service, so that we could but muster the men. We had an indifferent observation immediately after noon: and found the latitude to be 63° 15', and the longitude 54* 23'. Much drift ' wood, and many birds passed by us; the kittiwakes becomimr TOUch more numerpus. As on the preceding eveni|i,the water fellin tem- perature, but again rose, shortly after; the lowest being 37*% and the hyjhest 43°: whence we conchided that we had agaiv approach- ed some icte. At eight in,the evening we fell ii^ a strong nppline current, which made the ship very uneasy, and seemed to indicate the set of a stream of Davis's Straft. The temperaturD of the water was then 39««nd 40°, but it afterwards jose to 4lVthourh we were nearest to the Wern land, and, as wef omputed, not mora than fifty miles fit>m it 13M. We had stood first to the eastward last night, and then to the westward after midnight, the wind gradually decreasing; and on this day It fell calm at noon. We had tacked at three in the morn-™ ing,whenwe found ourselves in the ripple, and as it cleared up about ten, we concluded that we were within fifteen leagues of the <■*.. =t .^' ^ ^■^'' .^ :v .-«fc ^ «t ncQND vorAoiE OF piscovxbt' i 'ifi^:- not help noticinVi^/^LTM^*''"''??."*®''^*'- We could that thi? be^wS nSr^^S^e^J'?^^^^^^^^ '' ^*« '^ »«>^^ fore. It is indeed n^t to bnLd^thi-^"* eleven yews be- yet, having in my MMe«,!n„ » f * ?*' ?' *'°"^<^ "^ *e same: even monfre JiaufS the iShl**"'^!!! °^ *»' °°«» »' ^«» wouid%r™U«^i;£ jjaS? Sd r^r ii?~T^8 -^'^w^^^^^ two tons on boJ^Tt^^^UTi^ttZ^^fu '" *^^ ^°"" *^t»i ' wd miny «»ds near SSs icXre^S.^^^ '^^ and ^Crfound no diffi^urin Kn ' Sf ^^'^^u.'^'* *»'«*» :/ ««*° on Sunday morning WMii^„«£^^ *>ng whiA we had , ; ^ of usi and when th "K^-n^nL ^^ T^ '""*'' «» the north : for Baal»s river, whe„c^?cPSffi5^^^^ ^^^^'^ ^«' '^ We saw more birds to^a^iSS?^?"^ * "^^* ^^««I- ed evir to have seen^&eTS?f r^'^'S^ *^^^ weed from which nmyfmaJl fishS^n?^^^^ *" ^^""»*^*y °f ^' • procured, and preserved bv rnm« j S^®"" ™"'°* '"^'J* were once forkll. thK^ h»ti Commander Ross. Of these I may sav tural^iJSivThteh A^^o^^^ ^°' *« Appendix on^Ni^ them woS^oTon^t^teSSnrtL"/"^^^^ ' be of less distincthS i^d SL * narrative of our pf oceedfngs, but ^^illread to the IprenSS we ™Shr£*°^^^ "" 5*""8 «° oak ^rst eonvenivt oppoXnit? "¥.""«*»'> ^^^dy to fix it on at the K« work,jco2Lin^?^?J^pa2J" 5T^ ^'^^'"8 *^«° ««»•*««» which we had planned, UwM^^i "nprevements of the engin^ feeding pump would act^aiTw^^^wKK^'M'*" '^^"^'^ how thP ed. Ti^fo^erwifo^uS^TSi^^^^ piece of work; but though [hi^nrS^- i f*? '^°' » succpssful 'topped, the Wall onr^tlheforS^;^^^^ ""l ^^ latter was engine was not, however set tin^T ^"^ ^"^ *«* ^"red. The br^ rendered it S^r «' *''" "''"Tng up of a * Wn the same evening we were abreast of HooP • ow course to the north-nort^Lrlhl? jf ^w ''''•^^' '^^ *»Ped offin.,as^ Ae wind w^ToleT^ilf^r ^n^?^^.^'^ «*«« m^re oifin., as the wFnd ^S tol:e''St^^^ ™# «*'V "*"« -"« cloulv all day; and, ind^hi^hJti^^iT ^u ® '^^^^'''' remained ■ -• J t •'» «""> juaging by the ried by a current to the northward Th.o • ^'"T" """^""» ear- nest by our observations, wh^h^e us 6^ 3"^!!!?, 7'^^' "»°i- nine miles more than the latitude^? account t1!"k*"*'*' °*" "'*°"* - the mo.i„, ^i^^^t^^zs^::^^ 1 .^. ^■ ^ ••""','"' ♦' \ TO THE ABCTIC REOIONS. »9 from tile southward. ^ We ha^ a good observation at noon, by wWch we found ourselves in latitude 64« 48', and in lonritude^SS^ 4 V Weobtoined on this day a fine view of tiie remSe mo^n^n Suk],ptop (the sugar loaf ), of which I was enabled to ^teSS^ S!F^*^^ 2!^ bearing east-nofth^ and the Xr due ^7 lU^peared to ^be about twelve leagues distant, and far ove^n^ " all the surrounding mountains. ■» «"" i*r ovenopped The carpenters continued to be employed unon the neil^ ma«th»o^ . and as we had replenished our water%^ aeT^^ut^Sw^ce* for ^„g, together wia,> quantity of soap tb each^ W ram feU about six w the ev|5ning,and ihe s^eH increa^w mu™h as to be very troublesome; c^hile a breeze also spruneim from Jh^ norA^ast by nortii, our tru'fcoun» being north Cwesf At JSe it cleared away, when we ^ad another view n7 ♦!,?«. •«! mountains nearWin Sou^, anS thT^dl tj2tu"n Anne's Cape. But one iceberg was seen to^lay? JSIIkat a S amaU one^ and we continued to meet with birds, iaweed and S found tiiat we had neared the land considerably; but aSTtKind S-hdf-^l*^"« ""' '^^^' "^^ SukkertopSuft^^?; 15/A. The swell continued all nighf, and this prevented iis f«,m • noon i^e succeeded fn getting an observatioTby whiS le ti ounjelves in latitude 65° 20', and longitude 540 20- Tn 7^1 A ^Ur? !r f*^'"""* ">■>«» or feountahM tin this ooaM- *OiiM„ ' 2^e' Itwar? Tft'r'i^ t chrohometer, 55o 2l^'^T^'l .IfiawM f!^m fhJ lonT J^ *5^ morning, arid found ourselves nine teajsuea from the. land; landing to Uie westward after thi. till 7^t. j 'J*' /-_ . >v i. always founllhatthi V 17M. fhe wind tucbabatfedthat We , und that it made I "m, . — V ■ - — oxiimi^ and assisted » ^ i\ > l.r A DOWD VOTAOE OF DI^COVEBY Ae afternoon, when we again wore. We soon Th7f"S?" ^"» «fe»:^h>«t» we saw no more latenTe S ' n #*""5 *»"* ^e Relieved that «aten the lift alIo#ince we should getJttf -tho ceased ^fr^uentjte s6a more mbdbliite th ielee<]^l^||^of in re*;( ^ _^ , Ivindwl^™ _v — |w^fi|je wind^-wi "I*l®2" trf'wtfMnd a h«l IprmeiOeeWay. Infth "'" ^hta 8een> with iS^P ■ ® ''®®'" """"^ »"iu»aiBir'Been a little k^<*rhich we had noted yesterday, yet only ^ seven and eight o'clpckj whiie afoi away. At eleveii in 1^ m6rting,the en? ^ worit mqre than th«i Jiours, Se rf the \.Zf ^ '^astherefotejpiediatelyputout Fv^^^k""** ""* *°>^^ «"^#« power S^k4 inguisRed that iS S?'"«^ "^"^ "'"'^^^'^ st^^and the fiS? . Weimmediitelvit^w^iff "''^>''***'®«"»*one. the smaTpS- KL^.iTk-'^^ "^P^r ***^ ^'^K^' ^^^ ^3 repair ' undertak^;^The 3ctwS£ ,^ ^th^/ " ^'^tI "^^ '^ ^iffiS^^' to eachQth*er,i thS Xw^^^^ .plugging up thUldl^thTr^:^ 5^^ ^"J"'^^ "^'^ ones,afi«r WouihtVhave don^^^^^^^ themselves meet as the wprlmen; while we re£iLTi*'''^^{ increasing the trouble of able time whi^h w^^S^pbf.wl/'^S^^^^ ^T^^ % y*^"" nighi when on trvinir thp nf^irtrr • *^'*^'^® ^*'^"' t^" ^d- foSnS further alSrstSr^^'^eSt t fart^,^? f '" ^ new pipes, so as to occupy Us -th^^ wU:tft;,X frti? 1^:^: ^ fki^r"^*?"?*^®/ ^y observation this day at noon the longitude hj the chronometer, 50°: ' shoS h"an';ed\r'^"«- l^l ^rP^-W'oflhTiL'a. SbleiiJf ^'''^^'l^ '•*^^' increased, with "1.!^ ^.gmen^on of the swell. ^ " I8M. The ^mkjfyra and armourer were *ngme; my o^jPetyalso causing mTto thai ' * ' '5° 37',»nd lad made had not ^ever any _. »yed on the^ "^ my tinie ■-ifi '^-r:; *- •^^n"^:-;- #1 V ^< TO TH« ABOi>IC RXOIOVS. "o 51 in a»e iengine room, since I found that this renetitinn .,r o!iJ winds mi^ht materiaUy obstruct our p»L^ toXl L H^^^^ noon, conleauentiy, we had only madeTur miles northfn?' A was not tiHlve in -the afternoon^that the wort ^^ ready After an hour»s labour in ge^L up t^^^ tackle Md th>»g„tit*o„t if uTSr. "" *'l ' '^ 19M J3|,ruig the liirt night the wind wd weathrf rem.iJ«J wilh! little cdcuJftt**t^^Sill&^%^°"'*^"»*'*y'» •" » «t"«tion ^^^r »"^ l>P trom the various misfortunes which hwS^Si^^ru^ aitH ¥ i.«*i«i '/• , -" ""owi t.uucB Jwind co^^n*ue so u5^^ufK&^r ,*^**«""''»«?» '^ould the convttoent anchorwre on^!*^ . u***^ *°-°8^''' *° ^''o'' ft»r some carry more «ul. WiStWsvi^wfL^TP*"^^ to" occurrence of this W 1^0.3-^ '^^^°"' ^^"^"^ "^"^yi but the this desiea,^ly^^u^!'lt^^^ ^xiutiW of , . 8^^anaJ^ave us-how s t h at ^mn h cttc ^ ^fonmm was b6>.hi. i ' » I ' » k i V :\ w. ^<* ...^ **^' ^l" ll^ ", ^.' )■>,■ :/'■■ 32 iXOONO VOTAOB Ol- DncOVXRT /\ 1 K' \ , N ! 1 ^ .kJ ? \ ,\ . roIdfrZslt^^r:!:!' the deep.«ea lead eveiy two houn,,^ Len thf, "'"'"«^ ^""" ^^^ '^^ provisions. A laSre iceter7w^ S W^'^fnl"* *' " considerable distance, with 3y whdi Irf Wideford boreeanf- !«,♦!!..-<•• • j , , "°®" ^'^^ ^a^d about . ' m. b„, of p^j ^ (JS,°ng toZ Sky Ife Sri??™™"'' could emnlov but one imrf#«. tu-.^u **'**f,"^^ ol the boilers, we y.s" i» ♦ ■ i i U -^4- ^--i— ^ f^i'^Jk-:; ift- a:^h. ■ KiiaiMiiSi^^ y two hours^^and ^d BmallMfuies; ater shewed that e tried our lines, proved very ac- arge iceberg was nany whale9 and diminished from and fish during ded to 23, after nd no bottom at part, we judged J the Victorious ^ 1': and. though on of the same tioh. en bearing east t see the sun so uing we passed rday, being but «f Straits. The "r.iigger-mast; i^also finished, lageassoon as ' en in hopes of he land about > ' >ffin theafter- ceable, we put nfJon of dear- th west tiian the tide or a way from tije ner, however, lie boilers, we quicker pro- ped it at four i^t eight, but :(intinued ad- e;\ and what- irtoe, we had ontinued till -v^est, being f actiniuwa» onthenbank 3&fathom8; toififty ^a n d ^ 'it \ «co»wrA»,;„o„^, ^'i%»// OttAPtEft V. •^' Hi'vi ^^tqftheL ; X^J?,**' »t "Oder all «||, „ ST^^u'S^'*"'-- We/ShereS* «eJBe»c«ifi^f afll&^l^^jy 7^^ It was between tfate an? fcjtwfti^ tiSiS^^^ Which wi SS.S! ? ^'Wli, iiiwto cowrtd bv hwL^SJj^" ^ *^"»<*» near, ai. to h«i«l quitted theCf5SiSd\3l&?^ »^«.4 1^ •tm«5,h.«whiors;5ra ^/ never kno|»i a vapour! ftn r|. V-'- X ; '%■ ffif, i^" a^J^-^'k I . c /" ' ; TO TW AlCTIC MOlOMlg , » ■ - "lit f ■ ■• ' ' . '".■'./-'■ At five d^dock the tide had ebbed cooflideraWy, bo as to leavd us only twelve feet water. We found n* inhabitanta on the Beacon liland; but the presence of three Esquimaux dogs assured us that we were not fai: from some setUement Ascending tq the beacon, I nined a view of two magnificent inlets, surrounded by mountains of a very staking character; iar more striking now than theV had appeared on entering the harbour, as Uifrview which I obtained was more extensive. Being entirely clear of snow, while broken into precipices, and shooUng upwahls their sharp and rugged peaks, their aspect was very diflferent indeed from what had occurred to us in our former voyage, when the season was earUer, and the presence of jnow on them not only obscured their form! in many places, but. by brmgiM^them near to the eye, destroyed aU almosphwic »er^ spection; all k^^ping and aU landscape effect It was truly a splen- did and a sfrikinKscene, well worthy of the pencil of a very £tke- ~ br««kers,| both to the, north and l^sen^the right passage^or bv good iorUine thfua by rhe sight of numerous , the south, now proved that we —v. rather the only navigable onej guided «.v.-; «v kmvu wnune inaa nv observauons w^^ we had not in reaUty^ pqwer of aMnl The ishnd Itself was a far finer object than cSrErmer expSJenSi •t an earl ■.*■■ m- uookd totaob 0» mSCOVBlT ^^yS^Umntt f "''r f'^'r --« taken by «,rpri«ii were two Euronln! i^^hl T T^"^ P'^**** *« ^"^ that there of Esquimaux aS! I .** j'^'^^J ^'''^'^ ** ^"^ "^e^ned to con;S of the district of nSn^ '^^ " H'® EP^^^r^n^ ehrgymui who we we^ .L k'^"*^*' "■>'"'» that they had come tol^no" ahiphad ^ver beeiTSStaJiSk^ ' '^^^ ^""*^' '^*'" '«>^ of ••» .«j k-j u ■PPrf'^**' We seemed about tbirlv Jt»rm iame time any aid that vTm^lS^ • ""5^*. °*^""? "■ «* *e iooklS wLCS^n> J^>^ • had fltruck on a ro^k near iX?.*^ J? • ?*•*"■"» "«* /«>m London, however, that her main keel was W^n i« ISl!!^ was found, now lay a wreck in the iSC; Se^^^'^.P^^'ti "^ **' *^ char^je, together with the huB and rittnnfc ^^ P^"***^» ~-»iii.i*4 ,.-. t- ...w ■■n._j^ A-*-:--- „..j|g,_^ _^, ,r7'i ^ ,■ -^^^ TO TU ABCnc BMlIOlMi ST profad to have been two feet too short; and the pprojeetBd ivpair to which we had been driven, would increase this deficiency to threo feetandahalfl The governor having, on my announcing my consequent desire- to see the wreck, kindly offered me a passage in his boat, I embark- ed together with Commander Ross, that We might inspeot the mast in question, and determine on our proceedings respecting it In the way, these gentlemen, who spoke English; communicated to us the names of the several islands, h>cks, mountains, and inlets which we saw in passing, as I shall have occasion to notice in the place appro- § Hated to those circumstances. To this useful information was ad- ed the most agreeable news which we had heard since we had left home^ confirnung what we had already been led to believe from tiie absence of ice, and the. inore ji^tifving that it still more com- pletely justified us in having determined to prosecute our exj^ition this summer, notwithstandmg all the unt6ward cirbumstaiMeB by which it had been obstructed and delayed We were assured that the fn^sent season was the mildest which hadJbeen known during the memory of the oldest person in this settlement, and that the precoding one had also been uttusually mild. >Vith this, they declared their conviction, that if eVer the north-west pasMge was diaoovtted^ it would be in the present sum- mer. In detail, they stated tibftt thore were only three days during all the latter part of the preeeding year, in which the harbour might not have been crossed by a boat, that the thermometer had only been for one day as low as miniis 18*, and that since that time it had never stood beneath 9'' l^low cero (both) of Reaumur. This was a great contrast to the five preceding years, during which it had Often, and for a considerable timi^ been as lof, .'•wter. ■. ... '. ^ ^ ^j We found the Rookwood lvb|p tjose to this landing-place^ heeled to starboard, but with iKspiM still standing; and though it was not at that time lo^MMieBh was evident that she was com- pletely stranded. We lafide^^nder a salute; an honour which I .did not expect, but which we retohied afterwards, of course, as soon 99 an opportunity occurred. We were received by Mrs. Kijer, who was m WMting to conduct us to their hospitable, mansion; and in ,-p, , ;^ # <* 38. -y >f-- ' ,-. »» *- * / SECOND VOJAai! 0» DWOOVSHT '.' \. islands. FoSunatdySwWr^^^^^ J, converse with this 4y C«,f L^^^^^ husband's, extend to /e Snl'u«h f ^""^^edge d,d not, like her ^ w^t we might herfctsiS^^^^^^^^^^^ -ith Jhmgs, and served by Esquimau^ fpm^L^P^i • ®"*^° ^""^ ««»«' but far surpassinKindeSHJ^tTf? *^1° their native costumes, cotaiunicaTion c«*forS Son^^^^^ ""^"^'T^ ^"^ »^^« ' - . profusion of beads and ?L.vT ° I' *"a moreover decbrated with a- '^^ After dinnSt uSjS S^s^:?^ ??"* handkercS^ . Governor's and clereman's Ton!!; ?' '^^'''^ consisted of the hakehousl.andabou'KrEsq\'S^^^ a b«, t of wood, having a groTd Aofr ««;* -* *'^** hoU«i« were ' dmmgroota, a good fedro^ f^mljP *'°"**"*'"« * comnfodious Governor's havLan^J^!^„t,T'?).^'-^'»'^^^ and a, kitchen; the of his two boats' ?rwran5rpill"'"%^^^ . and haying cross beam* in Vr^£*5^ti*5^^ , SOguniship. TheupnirSorrii!?- T^^i^^^^t^^^'^cabinofa- yanta^teinl a speVeJ^rf^7 toX r'^%^^^^^ *'^' . . steeple ^mty,hktsurmmntiT^' (hIL^I ""^""Iu^ >«**' " • "'"aM • and plain, with' an 6i^X?^Z^^^^'''^'\*^^ ^°«de h«mg neat . thoulh the formed ^r^V^^'tfLTt'^'.'^'^ «t.tHeUer tepaired^- The church S-ca3» r !*l ^««n* »««« home^o be ^ns alS is weU^end^X Jmn^"^"'^^ *'""**^ ^' ' EsqttimJux and ih tha Danilh la "* *"** J"^^*^' *evi« » fee ; I need not -7 A J^e Si,'ff f Z f «;'*«-»te4nday^ ' repeat the praise^so welll^i?^" !? ^^^''^^^nj "« need I . Banish Government fSeir^Z 7 ? 1° °*" bestowed on thf •> .Q^^nlandeA; S a^ bSe W f °^ ° *^^ Welfare of thi ^. which has attended the Kl^oft?i^^r"-^°'^« ""«««»? v ,„^ujdertak.th.^,e,;^^ The« i^ nTvifw oTtEe^L;;te,"P/ ^^\°fj»»« people S :, vJsiS. It iMefenVd ffo/Cett trhi^^i:^""' '^^"^ •>«i««^ the west by bthers,Io asTbewelT shSS "^J.'!' '.'^**.*'"° fr«>^ from the sduth, thi£h7tio!!olli?^"*'^?' '^***^«»t " covefW - called theOld wX^nVHoo^^nd tt*^' ^^ *" *»"«« "'<'"nt.in V •ldft> hills frbntWthe LXur Tt • i * P'^fP*"* ^'^^ "^°«^ of .; ali?.ost a ronS^snot nev«L i "" *"" *, ^^^^ ifltereatini^d afence, we^en iSe^^^^^^ - a^l^i- to b^ V ou J visit S an^rSni *1- Jr '""*^.i^ »' '^»''"'««<» obtained a ftL view ofXe L »^H t ' * ^?'* "^"y ^y«nd it, we jnterestingXitiW landLrr^lVof r/"*" ^^f^' ^°™'^ «» foijtiffl^f better onetth^^ol aid n-thf""'^^'?''"^ *' codMS::;'ai,c.rn our o^ f^C^^^^^ ^^^ ^ -f*' ■;V'f**™pr**,*.- cove; The E^uimaux name of this town is^ TirUniak Pudlit meaning, as we underatood, the « foxes' holes.'* ' Proceeding, aftw our return, to examine the Rookwood, I soon found Uw| some of he^ ttores would beli valuable aequtsition to^ so that besides the plteasure which we were here enteyine, in the only dav of comfort which we had met with since iwi departure from Woolwich, we had also fallen on what was as good, tbus at least, considering our few wants^ as an English dockyard. The mizen mast suited us as well as if it had been made on purpose for our ^remast; and the proyisibnr'which remained unsold, ¥fere suf- hcent to make our own up again, to our nee^fful complement. It tnus gave great satisfaction to our hospitable friends to'find that I should lose no time in bringing the Victory into their harbour: and fcivmg promised to dine with the Governor 6ii the ft»Uowingdiy. wetook one of hit pilots on board in his boat **^^ On my return, I foupd that JVfr. Thorn, yhom I had left" on board . to superintemi the necessary operations, had already got out the • te'tfe''*'* Z'^ 'n^the act of doing the same for tl^^il^n mSt ho^!?? T ^."*« Sf»»»J«J»,I.Prepared to run up the harbour, by hoisting a topsMl upoU the sheets which had been set up, the^ind being fortunately qmte fair, and by the aid of warps; under whteh mLr^r"^? r*,.*^^ ^'''^* '^'* "**« ^"^^ to rings Sn the rocks,^ 'fiS^*K r^**^ ^^ our situation being withfn a hundred yinb ; from the shore on the east-side. ' /«»« ' P«^li2f®***^]^*^ proceeded, to g^t'the jniron mast out of the Rookwood; and about nine orf the same fevening, t}ie Victory was hilled dongside of Je wreck, it ^i„g then K watet^-m Zi^ «opn hoisted^out >y means of our owninmasl; when I^i*^i.% J° °"*' ««>"°«8'attd the carpeirters were set to ' 5^r I *®?;™° bemg.s^nt to tajte their ftejir hours' rest at" onfe S.^ V±„^^ nft day, Jufy 24, thev were employed in gettinj^n . the foremast and forqtopniast; and Mr. Thdm went on shore 5^ gke an Recount of thS pr^isions, which were shi^d off in the" ■"•isenstem, together with some other stores that wehad selected RoJ InH ?!,?"« ''"'®' ^ proceeded, in company .^ith Commander shT whIk S^Seo'Jr^o a" eminfence o» the shore near to the . •hip, which commanded a complete view o^he rocks, shoals and w enb^ce of this place; When sights were^en^rVe chVno- ToSi ^*V ^'"? •^'"fidiarf altitude khhe sun by the artiS horizon. A series of angles were further observJd, for the purwS ■ of determining the positions of several places, in^i^ bu?3S Ton"2S?W ^"^"^ ?* °»o|guitoes, which far exceeded the pe^cu! S.n.nl^^*'" *^*^' **'* ",°'^«'" '^*'»«»» «^y nephew sufferedin a ' 3K.l?*^;'^r'^r''*^ * ^»»° '" 't that abJses Acerbfror hil # SS^Sa wK*^ 1*^' 'f''"'"^' he endured from these pc^Hent •nimals, which, in these climates, render everv jnom^nt » {n««l«i S>k S-ry*--tire attention, -h^T^tXo t^X^i' " «ble to act a. 4,^enjoy ? Let ^hem try the ^x^riment, not ?f t tr ■■' *,' *"■""•: ~fw * i !< ■ v ' .i'^'i .% .«. »* ■ w •» *n I' V, '■■■:% /^ 0,1 ny •.. **^ --»— **t ;, r u si ^^g . ;-;,.'-hf ■^•r^;'v;.; * ^ WSf!^. mi^mmmm m .■■•irt"'. JP ir »f^||P*^^|»%to^.,iij,^^^ »"l*P^3*«(^«MrliStV>.«» ^'HK^^^4|*»;-f y^^ v ij tiii f rt i^i '2c^:!*:r^!?*^i^r^ r*!l^^iNi|>.lW-^^y i^'«%M«i^i'«.#|*-: h^n #f 3f .i((i»"«»*4, Li^ile ai ' fi^m'-Mmm^a^S^^&m We furtber "- iflii^iiH i If — 'J^ — . ;?L^u__. i — ,. . ''•':. _l *. , 'V : ^i^ -■■i*'#3ft K-'Wff'«*! Wfll^fflr^^ t It regular/ •• • / TO THB AaCTIC RXOIOMB. 41 V, If I myself wjtneiffled nothing tmt the most perfeist good order dur- ing our short stay here, so I was infonned thS there were ^^ instances of immoi^ity, and that the general character of the tfre*n- i^m^nTS? """^ '^^ ^'^'^ " **» ***"> »« »"«**•>««* eveTof common fighting; as, in no case, were they the amrressow- when s^jr'^ ^"^^ '''""" ^^^^ "^"^ "*^"-"»» ffi^:J;:; f Ii/**^!J?**^®** •" ^^ Appendix correct accounts o^th^ population of Ae settlements, which were kindly fumish^Kto me by MrKUer No one expects to hear that there were treefin the GovWi- ^den, when even the Shetland islands are reputed to (ion Jn bur one; but we found it cultivated, with salad, widish^, and tanupi Here, as m Lapland, the wUd angelica rfwunds, a^ do th«™S known scuryygrass ^d sonel, so Sseful to a people w>m^S the healthiest season; and it iS insummer that their cmJS^ being pulmoniiry or catarrhal, prevail. Whether tlfMe areTS termine; but ^hepatientr cannot at least suffer much frem rtedt cme, since the nearest taedical person is two hundred miSs Tat Sd'h'Kr** «^«"f,«^' »»" P'^ctice is not extensive^noJ^h' to' atlOTd him the means of doing much harm. * The stepping of the foremast was finished this eveninu, and the "IfftFUth, with all that had happened to us, a>d all that had occurred to tease and prevoke them, besides the real hard work whirth^f had undergone, mine was a crew whose duties had B^n as lUUe o ST^ ^^" ^1^7 ^ fo"°d, eithprjn the mval or Aimer- chtot service; whUe if they had a right toc&ctji far easieir ,^^ ^ better passage, and a vova^e of no Lk tSSfutLTS tolls and troubles up to tliis point, *,, in having Bben thus S^ have been their comparative holiday was nowataii enland Zt ' there was neither murmur nor regret Their sdft waTu^Jeariel. ' and thtiir enthusiasm as lively as ever; while I S^W not too^u^ v ^ ' praise their steadiness and sobriety, n<». be otSseia^Sd at the^ amicable and good-temperei-rt«iner with wWch Sly^n- ducted themselves towards the natrv«s. I do them but bare fusti^ / • • IPI™'^*^*'"!^^" "°^= '^th but little excepK, ndThat 1^^ ', ceeding from tke most unexpectedand severe suffer ner and diC-V pomtments, I found far more reason to admire tE ?„ fiJr ^"'^P"/ 'T.;r^^t "T °'"' ^"''^ SThave foSn*!^ " ""^ TW stiSl^ei^rrToiT'^**" ''^^ '^''' "^'"•"'"^ atsixi the crew *eihg lS*3'Ir ^•Tu^^^"»«"'^^"*'"8 i» his capoe along? r r^cr^ZZk^"^^ ^H *^" ^r ^'^'"oneof the. boats, anil for h;- i^^ ^ T^ VP "« «^»« of course handsomely rew^erf « for bis honesty^; .Rowing ># the .ame time that^he MM^JlTi^to- . J .ft' ■*,' * FT, .'1 I 48 SECOND VOrAOS OF OISCOVEHT 2lr^ f !u^ °5 °f ^^ '^'^^y clergyman deserve to share in the Ki- .?? *»«* *^V*!!*^ (5ood conduct which we witnSLd" hdt ^ this as »t may, I do but Justice to the natural character?/ tWs ^ ^ T'^ every where within our experience, to say thaUhev «^ , among the most worthy of all the rude tribes yetloirwnToSr voT • agewjin whatever part of the world. «iown lo our voy- Here also, I must net fofjget to notice, we procured six Esoui- ^f Jo««5 a portion of our^moVing force thit wew^re likelJ to «' wfi^S? '^^ '^i^^'^.h-d long arrived, and jnfghTnStJn wLd' J^ent for the articles ^hich we had procdJed5vas of a somewW the8tt«;lTt^* 0?? dogs being also his present: and as far a« V 2l tJ?» ^^Z"^*" ^''^ "^^^^ °^ *e RookWood were concern J' Sc^^ S^'SooV' ^ "^"^ V^^ ^^^- ""^^ ^^^^^' t^^!^^ breakfast we went oii shore td renew our operations for de^ to be ^66 58' N., »nd tiie Idnptude 53«^ 54' W.. bv the meanHf five chrenometera. The goverLr and tiie clergj^irpaSlTned mth us, and g^ve us an oppoAunity of showing them ffpi^^t arrangements, together with those which we should hPoKi.^T. evening, that we could expect to be in real^^ to piSceJj^ ^' w^ backed «^^^^^^ the mapificent screen of mountains by which U ^♦• V V :^ n^ I knowiiothow veto share in the we witnessed; but I character pf this say that they aire tnown to our voy- >cured nx Esqiu^ we were likely to tt not obtain wjien 1 usetous. The ^?B of a someWhat il^rnon yfaa made aterpirtof what nt: and as far, as were concerned/ lish) with a refer- >perations f6r de- buind tile latitude by the means of ian*« party dined hem our present Id be obliged to ght gratify their I to' take an intfr- n that shown by •in great confu- 'ttilliajeinthe procecid. pot called Lines iment, taking a ,. lihs by which it ters to England Dined the whole t take our pro- .and maritime 5 was every ap- he letters were h ship that had •ugh whom we (1 the morning, , was aground, lock. Ithere- uld hiave been lad t not long •V V ■:\^ fi'!: r TO TBB AlM^TIC BSiOIOirs. »' they learn to sing ev6n the moi# reined sacred mtisiejif the Oer: man school; as those talents also had been wid^kr cultivaterbvjSe nfti't ^f? subject ott which my opinion and expenei^is^ are,edually. of no value; and it is of na moment therefore, tto^ £,lh in SSS the former voyage, the tribes^ with which I coTmJ^catS jSnSd qmte indifferent to music, o^ insensible t<.it, as Wfe tlloS^hrTh^ authority of wch a. musician as the one whom I have nav^U^tZ n,ount: and- when Je Moravian miss^naries in SraS, ulSeKS taught, m addition to their accurate singing, to play on th« violin -;!;'* r' '^^^■*^» *° construct their owl ittr^enCna^i^tan t question the^ inherent musieal talents of this race, though AeXultv inay not belong to ever^ tribe. I presume it to hi pretty weH known that these worthy missionarieThave not treated Ei^b^ct Js a mere ihajtter of amusement or curiosity, but thaTinlheT-^n. lightened practice, it has been rendered a powerful auli&i ta r^fil Ug.ousinstructi9h and civUization, as far. ^ civilizati^VpLft,: ■ Th&"°*'*'''^r'*""T as those underwhich thesTt^STSS Thel^nolopists may h*e seek to confirm their theory, m f^^ evt Sif.:??r' "",?;' ^'^g^feculty can assist tffi'but wut ever this, and the parallel case of the Hottentots under the same ' toition may prove, t must not at least be forgotten that the JVW nans have be^n the instructora in each ease, and that, poMilbly more merit is due to the instructor than the pupil. # ^ PO«jWy» more rhe clergyman ifterwards presented toe With a hymn in the F«- quimaux language, Which I subjoin f,r fhe sakeof thr?ew who may iake an interest in this wide-spread tongue. : T ^^ .• ^ - KONpiVTINIK. .** - '. 1. • . . " , Am^rdlarsorsoangortikit , ' ♦ \ ' °i AtAtak! Kongim udloiei -' ^ ^ ^ Taitaasa pillfe attatikit ~ — =^— — — • Paralugo kotsiil^erme Tussirkit, tuksiautivut Sajmaugitiglo kpngerput! ' ' - ~ •••© «. ■n The transl a tio n will ^. fa,ri^ Tennitarpin op^rnarsusek ArsQtigein*liuk Tam^tigudlo sajmarsusek IlligUt noellunfteliuk Tussirkin-^! K^nuUvut Sajriiaugiuglo Kongerput! "A-^ in the App^Hdiib- i:^/.;:;j^;-^ , , - ^^ 1.(11! . ftS.,., f 8 • ';■/ ii >i I* '-' ., » ' • . "^ -A_i_. • HI' \ .; ':^- -^ i <•». *«'' t^r . ■:ar aMOO^ VOTAOB or OUOOTXBr J The breeze being at lart fair, and ourvesml «« ^inIet,andwothrS,:Sr^S?t- this tMtimony of gratitude to Sill«T T "»""' """^ ev^ read , happy In the Jpporffi^Sreco^t; L^lv ^"^ ^ "«. fet lam disintei^sted gSerositv we cm?l^^^^^^^ '*'° t*»«ir returnySydnf SieTmKS^^^^ ^^"^'^^"g «°y ceive; refusing every SirffirS.l''r *«y '^ere willing to ri it ho;ever infuSt onX ^ a^ ^"llT"^!^ service, to write a letter StiZi^t^^^ *® Kmg^of England's panied ^ one to U Dan?8h^n^.w.^ ^^ governor, which I Sccom- one to wWhVreSLndSZ^f * '""# testimony in favour of in that quarter ° '''*'"'"«"'>«t,on from ^cqm be of «,y .arice «-■ ^ ;..iL.i-.."=^i- ■ji?. .In rr-. ,t^ '-*.!■ :\ E * 3» f i -'tS^'-- ,■ ■),> \ S':^ TO TBf ABCTIC BSOI0V8. : 45 L ■ -.? ' V CHAPTER VI. . -■ ■■.■.. ..,■■<■ , ^ ,..,■, ~.i ■ ' ♦kJ"/"^^' ^'^*°« ^"^"®^ "»' Commander Ross contimied to tak^ i^S£lT5SL h:Kl^"'"«*u^ position. ofS^iS! ingi8land8,jrf which he had given us the names-as weU aii those of S!tn^."*???"°?^"fP""^°'^*°"«'- WeunderTodfromWrn out of ughti but Wt puned a view of otheS not lesTS^^ifSS fi7JA. It bemg no" longer necessary to call at Whale MmA^ tiiof . intention was abandonen- bhMt^^S^Lti!^X"'°l!I^ .** stupendous mounteins of this fiA ^ tiM^gh the cleuHb, forcing a splendid sight: and we could see that tfte range next » the sea was is clear of sno^^ IL more southern land which we had di^y passed. Even A^nterror hills were but jery partially cov««i; d CTvery thing eoSed to favour our bopes of making a useful progress this sea^nrrnTfte of all the detention we had suffered. As we passed along the iTnd we took angles, in oijer to ascertain our dista^K^e from if, and X' to compare these with ourjormer observations at Hare iiiaiuL tha^ ' we might determine our true powrion. ^^^^ ^ ' r.Zu^ ^^^lii^^ '^'^ ■^'^ "» ^ evening, in centre beariw #» • north. ,v At int, it seemed entirelr clear of snow; anJ it i3IS till a nearer approach, that we »W there wa. »me remainiaTS- » ^^n|p-»lheo a few miles northward of I*i«a, and aboia I, 11 '< • 1 " " 1 r'^ tt • ,. t,—.:i- ir^^' ; ■- J •* *i' y / TO TBB\ABCTIC RKOIOITS. 47 ^d us to heave lim under the. ; lurch, which ig been rath^ )sail however 1 contrived to lad, for a sub- more made all itude 54» 58'. if kol, the ice- mailer aad in jy fragments, ar ten leaguep verifymg our f because this iscertained in e-fish islands, especially as the temperar iver than 40°; id and heard, but the lofty were within, odhavn bay,|i ettlements in' Qj supposing as not, how- possible that ie lip a new sss^ waste of' } it stilt con- tains of this ;ht; and we , snow as Uisa* I the interior ig continued son, in spile ng the land, it, and also . i^and, that bearoK Am * maini^ is ; longitude '■^*.' ..^-^fzr^ ;^ ^: " 'M. twfelve miles west of it Tlje wind held on fair; so that, besides Hare island, we also obtained at length a good view of Four island point, and, brfore midnig^Lcaught a sight bf Unknown island also; wurying on our triangletiifRir ap Hare island. Forty icebergs were here counted; and it.becomfflg calm for an hour, we got near to one of ^them, and were tempted to get up our steam. This however was scarcely done, when the lair wind returned, and we were pleased to have lost our labour. AH these icebergs wer« in the same state of w&ste as those which we Wd seen before, and as soon as we had passed them, the temperature of the water increased from 36** to 42°, and that of the air to 44". 29th. The wind was light all this day, and we therefore took the opportunity of getting out of the Krusenstern the capstan which we had obtained from the Rook wood, together with some other articles, in order that she might be towed with more ease. At noon we were in latitude 71* 1' and longitude 56°, the Black rock bearing north. The land towards the sea was here also clear of snow, but the high mountains in the interior, both here and beyond Jacob's bay, were for the most part covered with it .The tempei;ature of the water was 41" at noon; having ranged during the day, from 39°to42«». „ ' The moon had risen at on^ in the afternoon, but there being now little wind, we attempted to take advantage of the enginfe; and in some manner or other, it continued to work.all night The breeze freshened nevertheless lat rnidnight, though the weather remained, as It had been all day, bAutifully clear. OuRuie^aLia2>n4»l was bent, and seemed to fit well; and the carpenters having worked for these last two days, all the new davits for the boats were finished, and they were hung on the larboard side. The temperature of the water rose to 46°, In the middle of the day a ^hip was reported to me, coming down on us with all sail set, nowj^ there any doubt about the natute of the object, either with thIKcer of the watch or Mr. Thom, as indeed the same opinion was eni|r^aiaed by every one on- deck. My telescopc'however, soon discovered it to be an iceberg, being one ef a very few tiiat were in sightat that time. We stopped thfteMine when the breeze had sufficiently fireshen-' ed, and passed the Black rock imder all sail; having a beautiful view of the land, which was clear of snow sear the se% and only exhibited Its white covering on the tops df the loftiest meuntains in the interior. As we left the land during our,pr6gress, the iceberes diminished in number, and we passed a blubbfer cask marked Jane, with some pieces of punted wood that seemed to ilwiicate the loss of a whaler in this quarter. It became suddenly calm at four o'clock making us have^recouj« to the engine; and at in I eastvrard. The nt there was no for a short time^ and taking ad- lis season of "the, 1 the spot where le date, and not t a month later, there was none urs had elapsed lowntousilew ler Boss to de- hat department sailors called it , we ifjiwe well L!yhish„S§ryed a of discussion. •e, many of the* Ebrmer voyage, e sea had been e of 66°. clear morning, . Id ekdly Mve ; to be in want, I it At noon le temperature eontinded un- i summer day; e expected in y. The wind died away, so; s, however, as ' il«rs appeared . '■ Bot caUed on stood toward rose on us, it enity; theat- st to leave us ht, we might id, though the itude at noon pot an hour ;ues all round . ler of it wall ' // /y ,■1 ■ ' ■ <^t> ' T6/^irB''AirCT»C M01ONS.- '" ' "" ^; ^g,- made what we always wished,,^ pferiod of W-. On this day a larm spot was seen near ^W. centre of the «u«r; and two bottles wfe?e t^own overboard, containing our sub^n^Hption with the latitude an4" 3rf. Like the prccec^ipg, this l^a» -a sumrticr's day: and as thei^ " was aijentle breeze fr<^n,, th^ nor^h ^e were enablp/to make ^^ progress to the westward I?pthtEer^w^,*^veU. nowficfdS! and so warm which presented ijjs for twefve^^^^^^^^^^* engine was kejit at work/ befti^ only . the feeding purijp, and partly be^aUs^ , Our latitude being 74° 14^ dhii li furthest north that we >^ere lik^lv to t«, , board to commemorate the day^ a»d ' j prej* under the possibility )<|f falling jriWitb som! // saits, the to repair fres^len. being the .— ,^)wi4 pver- ror England, iler,'/ At iioon the \ M - , V " airwas44° and the sea 4^^^ Wbil, both m,taed X^^S^ a n,,dn.ght as lovely as the d^rbad be^i^ai^d «rhich he X desfres 4M. Ha4 w^ been inifo West,! As, I cou^^ o^cScl^ **i;^'"°'"'^f^ at^X,:^erubbing tji^d^^ks'Withput shoes b^,t Kr^K ^ u ^"™uP ""^ %rg'"^< ^'•^ completed belbre nine, but the starboard boiler began to leak again to soon after it had been set going, that^we were oblige^ td mal5 tis^^f the ,jtfc b^S so that we could only obtain ten reyolMtions >n the^miiiute, iid^t - ' mlt h^?"^ ^y^^\ Thus, although it nrala d^ad; calm, We co^d : nothW .* J? .r^^u' "^"""^l ^" *^"^?'^''* y«t this was ietter tha» " a^k S\,^iit:^ "^^^ th, engine ^assuredly as smail " ^Though the sea was smooth, the sky was etoy,ao tJjai we4o«Id obtain no observation; and the temperature of the,sea'4as one dl ■ gree higher than that of the air, which was;40«" '^e pas^Td bel ' tpen two icebergs but did not choose, utider the preseKrcum- . stances tq deviate from our course for the purpose of gettLK water ' ^wP hT- . ^'^^"^r'l-nding engine was IJ/^VKo^ol^^-^^ >^ as we had stopped the leak in the boiler; and,^ut five o''<$lock we " «rS *u both boilers, but with only one paddle, ofvwhich we could thus co^and nearly fourteen revolutions^ .Th^ peS we^ employed in fitting the new. capstan, and in preparing tHreholrf focST ^.T,.^°'"« «tor««; «nd one of the stXs was ne^ly su2 few ^iJ "'t^'"^ «ome sulphurous gas at the furnace moutlJ A few n^rtlemokes were shot for the do|s, and we found some shr mos aLarSr^/'-r ^boutel,yen,the,^ being a 3l?cK o- !u 1 u^ u*"*^?" ^°'^ ^^^t i" ^he boat to fetch some ice for ^ate? "ad^ott^^C^^r '"f Holsteinborg was Wpended W^ had not ejaculated on>ilSg so long without the means of renewing I *.< ■ ^ / y- ■■•'^^sP^'t N'-- .' 'mf^ -**— 5. *—■"•: i J ■!'■ • ■■<)**> 'tp/' t ■.:?■ M %.--''"^:t, /"'%■ /-''^^■'^mi: .:^v^_^J ■.!• ..-• ^^^. , V ••♦ ■• A <■' V IMAGE EVAtUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ':J^ \I' I. |jo ^^^ niH us ■St. 1.1 J 140 1^ ' K FhotDgr^ililc ScMice& /; // ^A fef /:•" ^>^ ^C> • |l.25 1 u |,.6 . • * I 1"- . J X^ — 6"^ ^ ■— -_». •^ \ \ 7.< S. J^-^' J y^ ."^v. r \ , t \ Qjrporalion , 33 WIST MAIN STREIT W|BSTIR,N.Y. MSSO (>16) •72-4903 :, -V^ ^ 50 SECOND VOTAOS OF DlflCOVEBT i : V It, Since we had always met abundance of field ice in our former voyages. About midnight, a smart shower of rain came; beine much more welcome than the snow, which would have been a sul^ stitute for It in our preceding voyages. ^ 5th. At one o'clock this day we got pretty near the iceberg, when the boat returned with three tons of excellent ice. It. had been found to be m aatate of decay ^and it was not long before we saw It fall to pieces. The wind becoming fair in a short time, -the fires wertf put out after the engine-fiad been working interruptedly about fourteen hours. For the present, the boilers had given over leakinit. But this wind did not lest long, and at length inclined to-the south- west; so that It was again set to worjc and kept in action about twelve hours, heme the longest period during w%ich'^^it had vet worked without a'ficident or interruption. The weather was clear and pleasant, and the wind varying more to the northward. At nooiv the latitude was 73° 43', and the longitude 73° 30': and at six. we had increased this4o 74", being about sixty miles to the east of Cape Byam Martin. We saw the land looming, but the view was not such as to enable us to recognise it At §ight a fog came on, but the temperature of the air and sea continued at 40°? just as it had been at noon. "' , The carpenters having finished the* platform for the new capstan between the main and fore hatchway,, it was shipped into its place. Two icebergs were m sight before the fog set in, but wv soon lost sight of them and of every thing else. Some advantageous changes were made in the machinery, in consequence of which we made lulJy thirteen revolutions in a minute, with a velocity of more than a mile and a half in tiie h^r. The fog tiiickened much at mid- night; but,as tiie temperature was 43°, it did not freeze on our "gg"»g> M had happened in the former voyage. 6M. Being, nearly calm to-day, the topgallant toil was furled at one, and the topsail lowered; but we could not make more than a mile an hour with the engine. At tiiree the fog suddenly cleared away, and the land became at once visible, as if bursting out of the clouds; Cape Byam Martin being distinguished from tiie rest by the grandeur of its form. All the high lahds, and this among the rest, were covered witii snow, witii but litUe exception; and we atti-ibutJ this difference between the present coast and tiiat which we had quitted, to tlie circumstance of the former being exposed to the dStimL*^ Possession bay bore due west, about fourteen leagues A light breeze now came from the westward, so as to oblige us to^ stand north; but we still kept tiie steam on, while tiie engine had conducted itself so far beyond all its former doings as to have been at Work for twenty-four hours. Towards noon the land was covered ^ SL* Jo ^/ '."'* ^^ ^"^ "o ™°ro o^ it at this time. The latitude was V3 33 , being nearly that of Possession bay, and the longitude 74° i^'-s- -.:: 1 ia our former a came; being ive been a «ub- ! iceberg, when Il> had been >efore we saw time, .the fires ruptedly about n over leaking. I to'the south- n action about clir^it had yet ther was clear Jrthward. At 30': and at six, ' to' the east of the view was fog came on, 10", just as it \new capstan mto its place. w^aooa lost ^ous changes tch we made of more than much at mid- reeze on our ivas furled at more than a Aenly cleared ng out of the le rest by the ongthe rest, we attributed irhich we had [losed to the teen leagues TO THE AHCTIC^ixoiOira. 51 I oblige us to ^ engine had to have been was covered latitude was mgitude 74° / 1 % rd of ihis part of the 4«', being about thirteen leagues to ' « J^U rtmS:d*?Bjldg; TuilrtflA^^^'^'^ ^^^-^^ The other two seemed in a^lSJf^sLra^ °" '^ '"""'"'*• • of them fall to pieces SomTof Ik 'if^ ^e.^^terwards saw one seen in the mbr£nr;nd irth^? •r'"i ^^ ? «^»>ale had been* came near unSft'wetnto^tS^ffi^^ ^^ «^, very large fish, the dogs. A piece JfsWn Si« T* f"** PT"«d a supply for^ -hellfisf adherer to it fn ^hl T '^'^^P''^^^^ "P, Wiffl^W aciinst us anH tho o • - *® eve^mg the wind was directly ^XfTedit nuTtT '^^PP"!' "^ '' ^««*hen of liwS perio"d1f4"fq^^r^^^^^^^ we had decides Tnd^^J^ fil"^"?*!: *" «P°* «* ^hich tmte no further weJS' fn^J^- T ^'^^ *^** ^« *=0"'d pene- inmy Journal th:rerL^Srh r4*'S;S Sl'jlf t'"1''^^ beZheldw1d?reJ'^'rit»' TH^sTr ^^"""^ "*'^'''» ^'^^^ guou8,at least; and eiXer from fh? T''^*' " wmewhat ambi- infen4d by soie "f Ao^ i^^n^^^LT^^ ^'^ ?*^«"> ^^ ^^ been coveries aid pn)ceedb^YZt" otS^^^^ S ''''• ^'^ was opposed to mino iJk«^ ""yara^tnat s>ir Jiidward's opinion expedfff UnZ'sC^a^^XsrXr' **'«^"'«^°'^ *'*«"" to have perceived, that aJ a IS^r of tofcT^ ?«^^ *'«> expressed that difFei«n«#. «f « • • . ^^^T^e* he must have then a- my assocUted^So^riuti J^^^^ "" "iT"^ *^' ^«« his dut will have furtherSmSTh«r^^^ «»d thence, I presume, thi^ opi^ition to n'dSHpintt " "H*- ' ^^^ ^P^ceededl «ndecd;:d^fo*J\niJ'r'rxr^* t p*"°"- •"^-'^^ »« knowhtome.andirm»£flf u *'I"® "**^^ any such opinion entert^n T^S ^.S^^wtl-*^ to conclude kt he L not through LancastenSund n.^ iT ^iT*** * **»' ^^'e ^^ a passage' 1» officer, were I to im^SHhat wh^# "^ «~~ misconduct m mand, he suppressed J2S« • • 5 ° "® ''" ™y ««cond in com- which' wt;e»'ss'.„'s;srz,*3,T''rt° t. "-'^^ nion which, on accountS J#- L I® u '< *""■ '^^ coAceded an opl- •trongly hjs dutJ^to"Lv« VOTAOE OF DISOOVEBJ since it was incumbent on all to have stated to me what they /be- lieved or thought on that leading object of the expedition. •It is possible that I may not, even now^ influence or alte^ the conclusions to which I have thus alluded, since it is in human nature to adhere to judgments once formed, and sO long uncontradicted ; but I can here, on the very spot itself, where ever^ recollection ■ seems but that of yesterday, reassert with thejniost perfect /confi- dence, that no officer then expt%ss^d sthy be|iepfhat there wa»a pas- sage through this opening, or Wen suggi^H^ a hint to tliac enect So far from this, I was led to infer, by the general remarks on board of my own ship, and by the expressions of those who considered that they had more especially a right to be consulted, that I had, accord- ing to their opinions, already proceeded, 4»ot merely fai* enough, but too far. >^ / •* It is further true, and I must repeat it in this place, that even if the opinion of my second in command had been,Vhat by many it has been supposed, the'reverse of my own, which it was not, I was perfectly justified, by my instructions, and by the c^umstances in Which the expedition found itself, in acting as I did. Those orders were clear and decisive: not only was the season passed for penetrat- ing further through the ice, but it was my imperative duty^ as it is with ev^ry officer in command, even if I hild not received tiie orders to which I have referred, to attend to the preservatioti of the at^pa . and their' gallant crews. * It is unquestioned, at the same time, that the whole space to the westward of the ship, at that period, was filled with ice, so that we ' could have penetrated "but a few miles further, even had we made the attempt Nor do I think it in the least probabl6dii|||a the ap- pearance of the distant land, as it is at this moment 'UflBprore me, that my judgment respecting the nature of this opemnf^^uld have been di£lerent from what it was kt the time we res(])lved to give up this puKsuit, even had I then approached nearer ip the edge of the ice. It is well known that the appearance of the land ^n the icy seas is often very dec^tive; and when<.(j|pok himself had formed wrong judgments of it, on more than oi^ occasion, it is a sufficient proof -that Sie difficulty of judging truly must often be very great, if not insuperable." But, in reality, the whole history of navigation abounds with similar eh-ors of false conclusions; they might be col- lected in hundreds by any one who chooses to search for this pur- pose. He must be little conversant, Indeed, in this kind of reading, who cannot recolles|r jinsta^ces iii abundance, even without the trouble of a search; and Instances, of course, where the error has been only detected by the better fortune or greater success of jiubse^ ^ent navigators. . \ * I inight have said all this long ^, and I would have done so, had I felt that I was in justice called on lor a defence of my opinions and proceedings. Knowing myself tcNbe right, I adopted that course which, although the most difficulty is evier the best I|j[or -A ■I ...:VfeL ■'#'■ '*.

. TO f HB ARCTIC RBOIONS. 53 should I have broken thiit silence now, or have recurred to this his- tory of times long past^'^ut that^e spot recals a lively recollection of the various trying emoti9ns of ^Ijtiph it has been the parent, and at the same time gives me more thian^hQpes, that the effort which I am once more making to solve thfe ibportant probleip before me may, if ever I return to Englah4, be received in a very different manner.' :A ': / '% v-.« ^. :.•< ■'■ / \ ' ; ., . ^ ,, ., > • ■,'"■■- / » w \ •' t ■ .. . ' / \ '\ ' J ' ' ' 7 • ^' y ■i< 1 a • # ■ f • • t 1 1 ■ / , • ' / — ^ K' ' / -' » » s.. ' -*■"-« ^-^■' ---^ ---^-^ — ;-~ '— -'—-—-- _. __ -^j : ^ . ^_.:,, ■■" I, 7 / I, : t * ■ v.- '54 ■\/ ECOND VOTAOK or DISCO VXBT CHAPXER^VH. s V \ \ Progress down Lancaster Sound'— Sight of Catharine and sk zabeth Mountains — Pass Cape Yorke and steer for Prince Re- g fit's Inlet— Cape Elwin and Elunn Bay— The Compasses c^e to traverse — Discover Adelaide Bay— Approach to Fulry f each— First sight of the Teikt Poles Uift at the time of the vreck — The Victory moored. \ , \ . wStt^. 7M. The ship made about folir mile's of nbrthing in the moi n- ing, after which it fell quite caUnl mA the vessel's head to the nor^** ward. Several icebergs we■ ^^ i 'm^ men had undergone much fatigue, they were sent to rest after divine service. 1 he latitude was observed at 74» 1 ', and the longitude by the chronometer was 77°. No ice of any kind was in slg{it; but the snpwy tops of the mountains, and particularly of the two remarkable ones former^ nam^Catherine and Elizabeth, were seen rising above the cl^ds. The course steered by the compass was here north-north-east, which, under a variation of 114°, led us directly up the sound; making thus a course nearly west In the evening Cape Liverpool *v^ also seen above the clouds. At noon the tem- perature of the air and the sea equally, were at 40°, and at midnight It subsided but one degree. That the present cheeriness of the crew might want nothing that we could add to it, they were served with a dinner of fresh beef from our Galloway bullock: though the warmth 01 the weather now began to make us fear that we should not lone preserve the remainder in this state. ^ ° 10th. During. the night both the northern an^ southern sides of > the sound were insight, though obscurely; but >» the morning ad- vanced the wind freshened, and it became so thick that we lost sight ot them, and were unable to obtain any observations at noon. "Rie sights, however, for the chronometer being near thjB prime verti(»I. our longitude was pretty well ascertained. At elevSi we had passed Cape Charles Yorke on one side, and Cape WarrendW on the other, and as It was sufficiently ^lear to see two miles frorii the ship, and no land was discernible, *ye hauled in to the southward, t6 make Cape Crawford, intending to run along shore. \ At five it was actually seen on the starboar?! bow about two miles oo, which cdmpelled us to haul immediately to the northward* ahd, when It had cleared a litle more, we found ourselves nearly^«ta-^ bayed, and surrounded With fragments of icebergs and land ice. We sounded, and at first had fifty fathoms; but in a quarter of ap hour it shoa ed to twenty-five, with sand and shells, our ship beiimihen but a mile from the nearest projecting paint. The swell haWich in- creased; and as we neared the land, which Was now seen to be moun- tainous, thi^ind failed us; while, owing to the heavy motion of the vessel, she carried away her main toom,, breaking it into three pieces. Our situation was "indeed at one time very uncomfortable; savre were taken aback three several times, ihd w^re carried by the swell much nearer to the shore than was at all desirable. We were indeed preparing to anchor, as the only alternative left, when the wind suddenly returned to the oM quarter, and we weatiiered the point ■> , ^o aid us through these difficulties, we got the steam up in an unusually short time; but this Unexpected breeze rendered it unne- cessary to have recourse to the engine. As the temperature ofi tiie water had fallen to 32°, we had warning to keep a good look out; and I must not forget to record the good conduct and activity of the •crew, m Uiis as in all the previous situations in which we had been m a hazardous position. i ; ' J a I ■ , ; — j i ■ / . ' ■ . r\i t ' -■' ' ■ ' ' ■ ' ii ■•■/ 'TO TBK ARCTIC BEaiONIi; A7 The mainsail was soon set again, without its boom, and we thus got entirely clear; when we bore up along shore, with a fine breeze Irom the east-south-east, but edging off a little to the northwanl till ^ eight, when we had gradually gained a sufficient offing to enable us to steer according to the trending 6f the land to the westwaid. At three we jSw Cape Yorke bearing north-north-east An examina- tion of the engine at this time, showed that a quantity of coke dust had been deposited in the airpipea, and that both the feeding pumps .were again out of order. The cleaning and ordering of these things occupied us for six hours, and by midnight the breezftiwas fast in- creasing. , llM.»Tlie weather this day, although foggy, was not such as to prevent us from keeping sight of the land, and at six, while passing Cape Yorke, a peaked hill was recoj^nised by Commander RossT We now met with a stream of heavy ice, but found a good passage through It; aad, before noon had passed, through the opennigBof three others, much larger than the first At the same time, itfor- tunately became sufficiently clear to enable us to see our^y, and •too to get a good observation at noon; when we found the latitude * to be 73» 40', and the longitude 84" 23'. After this, we found no taore ice of any conseque&ce, and were able to make a direct course for the south side of Prince Regent's inlet Accordingly, at iwo in the afternoon, we made the. land between Ca^je Seppings and Elwin bay; bearing up, and saUing along shore, as 86on as we had approached it within three leagues. The wind, which had been gradually increasing for some time, became so hard a gale at four o'clock, as to reduce us to a dose-reefed topsail, upder which we were now compelled to scud. The sea, which had been comparatively smooth among the ice, rose also as high as we ha4 seen, It during any part of the voyage; and as the wind, being n^^ from the nortii-north-east, blew directly down tiie inlet, the \MM afforded us no shelter. We tiiere(bre prepared our storm saUs, and! made ready to lie to under them for the night When about ten miles to the north of Ahe place where tiie Fury was wrecked, and near Elwin bay, we obtained some good observa- tions. In running down, we perceived some of the land ice still fast m tiie bays; but, except a small iceberg, Uiere were no outstand- ing masses on tiie shore. At nine we passed Batty bay, after which we met ice of a very different character from tiiat in Baffin's bay, being much more uneven, and, generally, tiiicker; and from its ap- pearance we concluded^ tiiat not only tiiis, but most of what we had just pass^, was tiie produce of tiie previous year, and had been now broken off from tiie shores nortii of Prince Regent's inlet As soon as we had passed tiw} streams of ice already noticed, tiie temperatoro \o{ the water at tiie S&rface rose from 31 « to 33°, giving us hopes that we should now see no more of this kind; while, althoueh we had tiie prospect of being obliged to lie ,to for moderate wSither. Ve considered tius gale to be much in our favour. 8 . .* -•'■ '«««Wt«»»T. •■»-»..,..-. ."^^,..,,J 08 SECOND VOYAOB OF DISCQVWir w«^iSSS?*r"°'*^''^'^""'« Mil till midnight, at Which Umc Ae hU of ? •^"''"i?'" ^"^^* P°'°* °f ""r P«>g^'«« in 1818 to to ..nT?*K ^""'* ^^8ent'8 inlet, in thirty-siS hSu™, we broueh? in« been previously handed^ and the topgallant yard down wJ.lTc^;To^^l'^T'\r -'Sier suS thTwhile we ' conSdp«.hit^ xorke, and -when the motion of the vessel became mlteKky^ ^ ^^'^"^ *^ ourexperience/anl^xcelleS thirSioL^dsSffXS^*^"^/."^^ «^ent of Storm jib ^rre1fSb<^XAr;r'1;^*t^P^^^^^^ *° »>°"t th^' for such an em^r^cjT "^^ ""^'""^ ^"^ ^"^ ^«P' '"^ ^di°e» -^iceT:wig.°:L'2:>!!sfr^^^ board bowi* £„i^ • u^" *.' 8*^® "" » ^»oJent ahock on the lar- ^?rtm Hn.,LT^ lu ''"°«»°8 *« «^iP^» head the right way It wiMwi was now on our lee bnw vAtU ♦K«» o«_ u ii.' r^^.r*^ "* *ve ' \^e were Ti^7^'!? T T" ^«"*"'« *<» fi°"h our night's S mafnsa L we w^d'th^^" to moderate; and, venturing to set\the hourwesTwSf^i * l*^*"**"**^*o^"**stheland. ^I^ we ^ the place whei^e Fury waa wrecked, with ie X : ..." ■ 'r -^ ■-• ".- ,;■ ., ' V . •■■■. .. ' . \ ■ ^ ■** I I. A- ^^ --**-«*«£;ii»# "*. ■ ...4*^4^ •w. t(Vl of the tents stahding; but we could not discern the ship, though we , were sometimes witling to think that she was distinguishable. .To ^our great mortification, however, we could not rea^sh the spot; and we now saw that a strong southerly current or tide was hurrying us away from this unlucky place. A thick fog obliged us to wear, and ' return to our shelter under the ice we had just quitted. During the day, it being more moderate, with clearer weatKer, we made several tacks toward the land, but always found that we were losing ground. We therefore put on the steam at four o'clock; but, as the feeding pump went immediately out of order, it was to no purpose. At five, nevertheless, we had reached a point about five iniles to leeward, or to the south of Fury point, at which time the wind and weal her had both improved. Commander Ross immedi- ately set out in the Whale boat to look for an anchorage, and we fol- lowed, with the ship, now under steam and sail both, into the ^ay aa „it ^peared to us, but inlet as it afterwards proved. Which takes a d|r rection diie east from this part of the coast He had found a place, as he Judged, which would afford us security for the night; but we had discovered in the mean time that there was an eddy current set- ting along shore to the north-east, in the direction that we wished to go, and Uiat there was a clear line of water inside the masses of ice, which seemed to be aground. We therefore, stood towards this place, and found that we had just sufficient water to pass within Vusket-shot of the land. The shore here was at first sloping; but, fu^er to the northward, we found that the land rose from the sea in plerpendicular cliffs from two to three, hundred feet in height We easily ascertained that they consisted of limestone, presenting the appearance of a hori- zontal stratificatipn; but as to any other detaih, our geological op- portunities extended no further. A very large white bear c^me down to tiie beach, as if to gratify some curiosity respecting us; but it did not follow long, nor come within gunshot of the ship. It soon became quite calm; but jHtapen the eddy and iJie steam we Were carried at the rate of tw. ** V ' "a^w-ws vLt'W' J' ._ - J ro THB ABCTio aioioiqi. . ji >rgr by a. curmiv which, W . few ftftom filhTji »„":?" q«Wi^wSrA:^^htt-«t? r---, -.-^■' '>-^ ■^^ ^^^ ./=-. y / \- ;- v^j^; :' 1 - \ /SECOtTD VOTAGE OF DlfCOVERT CHAPTER Vin. /-- -/ • Examination of the Fury*s Stores — Embarkation of those which toe intended to tahx — Departure and Progress down this shore ' — Several new Discoveries made and named — Obstructed' by the Ice, and moored. , The Victory being now securely moored in a eood ice harbour, within a quarter of a niile of the place where the Fury's stores were landed, we were aiijcious to^ examine the spot; and haying ordered . the men a good metd, With the rest to which they were so well, .- ^.entitled,! landed at nine with Commander Ross, Mr. Tkomp and ^^ifap surgeon. We found the coast almost' lined with «oal; i&nd it 4va8 wim no common ihterest that we proceeded to fhfs ohly tent which remained entire. 'This had been the mess tent of thd Fury's officers; but it was too evidtt^ that the bears had been paying frequent ymCB.'^' T|)ere had b^n a«pocket near the/ door where Comtiiande^Ross had left his memorandum book ana specimens of birds ; but it was torn down, without leaving a fragment of wmt it contained. The sides of the tent were also in 'many places Itorn out of the ground, but it was in other respects entity Where Qie preserved meats and vegetables had been depois|ited, we found every thing entire. The canisters h^d teen pijed op in two heaps; but though quite exposed to all the chancy of the cli- mate, for four years, they had not suffered in the slightest dd^ee. 'Hiere had been no water to rust them, and the security of the join- ings had prevented the bears from smellinc their contents. Had they known what was within, not much of this provision would have como-to our share, and they would bitve had more reason than we to be thankful for Mr. Donkin's patent On examining the con- : .tents, they were not found frozen, nor did the taste of t£e several . articled appear to have been in the least degree altered. This was indeed no small tuitisfaction ; as it was not our luxury, but our very existence and the prospect of success, which were implicated in this * m(»t gratifying discovery* The wine, spirits, sugar, bread, flour, and cdcoa, were in equally good condition, with exception of a part |t' of the latter which had been lodged in plrovision casks. The lime- juice and the pickles had not suffered much ; and even the sails, which had been well made up, were not only dry, but seemejl as if ',- -t: -J— y i HW '" ' ' •+' ' ■J TO THB ABCTIC B^OIONS. 63 S had never been wett^. It was remarJcable, however th.i ^Zifnl nf r **1^ ''*'"*f^ ^'"^'^ pESiot of the sho" tS 3e southward of this place, and we jiow Examined it for two mite^ U the northward with no better sucmIms. ^L, ^ T pected- to want on tiie one hand, and to obtain on ^e^othS- if r„. J? T' *?K- ^V^'" *° occuirence U le« tiopl SanlnSe fnTl^s^^ « wi''' "? could supply all bur wants, and, colk^ m one spot, all the materials for which wd should have sear^ ttie warehouses of Wapping or Rotherhithe: all ready to beXu w^th the boats^to receive and'^s^rt'^hg^er ^^toTtS^ re'x?eX;.trnro'n;"«"'-^^n-^^^ ^» that^eSr^b:?^ tons'ofcJr;:n'fXtallli;^^^^ ^'^ ^""^^ ^•^'^"'*-« »«" get theseTtoSr ^Ui all t^^^^^ ^- " some rest, we contrived to Sn board ^beCSwtimeXST '"Ai^"^ °^ **?" "^"^ mast of the Fury • and S?S «Z i *5"u** ^'l® *P*^ ""'^^ ^p- new boom, in nlaL^?L 'LT*'*H**^ ,'*>' ^ «'^P«"te'- f"" * anchors «u^ haw^ to^th^r J'^^? ^^ ¥ '°'*- ^« «^ got «ame stores to make T^^r Si?^ -^'^ ^"^ boatswain's and carter's tak?ntoZ^^hC„2s ,;;r^ damaged Whavrfbi^m* ^T^ that belonging to the Fury aituX whi^^t^^' a j-'^r^ t- ^:±^ -^ I ' ' 7 • *». ^jpwks: . . . p^^ f 04 SECOHO VOTAOX OV DISCOVXRT skreen lined with fearnought was also found in toU but die bears had overset the harness cask, and de^ whole of the contents. We found that some of }e condition ; Etekrly the ie candle boxes had been entered, dther hy ermines or mice ; one! of them being entirely emptied, and the otiiers partially. Though bleached, and especiidly on the upper side, as I alraidy remarked 1m the spun yani, none of die ropes were rotten, the cables seemed perfect; and thence we concluded that the canvass of the tents had merely been blown away by the wind, after the bears had loosened ^e cloths at the fsot, in attempting an entrance. The chain cable and the cai^onades were inore ob^fess covered by Ae small stones on the beach, and except being Rightly rusted, were just as they had been left. .The powder imlgiiane, detached fK>m the rest of the store, was unroofed, and the Viterproof cloth of it in tatters ; but the patent cases huT kept the jki^powder itself perfectly dry. We^selected from it what we dioludit we fhould require; and then, in compliance with Sir Edwardl^yny's request aad our own sense of what was right, caused the ^jemaindBr to be ckstrojred, lest it should prove a source of injury to imy Esquimaux -D^omifi^t hereafter ehuice to visit this spot Jbi^with diis we elded ouc new outfit: stnrinK purselves, somewhat! like Bolnnson Chisoe, with whatever could be of use to as in the! wnek; y# if tlrus £ur greedy, having in view but the execntiod of otir plan, and piecluded by our limited means (^stowage from en^umbiming our> selves witir supeifluities. -^ In the evening we obtained sights for I9ie fdund that they gave a differehceof 40' m longitade hid been laid down in the chart Andasthuwas Vjlrification which we had obtained since leaving England, we car^ ri|»d on both sets of longitucfes in our proceedings, ti^ it should be ascertained by a series of observations ^ich wa» nearest th6 thith. The tides were foqnd to be very irreguho'; but n^ so much at the time of low or high water as during the rise and frdL On the fint night, the tide rose seven feet, the flood being all the while frsm the northward; but the following two were three fioet less, though, in consequence of the approaching full moon, they (night to hav^ncreased. luv the offing, both during the flood ipft ^^ ^^^f the Ifream took the direction of the wind. SeveraPMales were seen tills day, and shoals of the white wiule were observed running up and down the coast It had been nearly calm for two days; but at eight in the after- noon a fresh breeze sprung up from the northward, and the iee tuuv boar that we lay in began to hnaik up. A dog-kennel, for which we had np use, was landed above hij^ water^nark, and two botUes were left in it, containing an account of our proceedings up to that date. The boats were then hoisted vlp and secured, as was the Kru- senstern, in the usual manner: and casting off the ship from the' ice we made sail for Cape Oarry. , It is true Uut the opening which we meten, and m tiii^ which first place of \f^-r ■ ■ i-,?t/< je conditibn ; iirld dtikrly the te candle boxes of them beioK 1 bleached, ana f the spun yani, ect; and thence sly been blown s i^otbs at the fess covered t^ di^htly Tusted, imne, detached Iterproof cloth vpowder itself we fhould Pan 'any's request Fmamdw tobe my Esquimaux 1 with tiiis we like Bolnnson iwnek} y#if f onr plan, and igour> nometeifly and iom that which je first place of dandy we car^ U it should be l«st th6 thith. ot so much at IML On the ; all the while hree fioet less, thej ought to .#|the ebb, 1* whales were erved running t' in the ailter- id the iee tuu> lel, for which nd two bottles ngs op to that I was theKru- p from the* ice ing which we '■-€ M .rW.y- "-"-■ TO THJS ARCTIC REOIONS. 65 had seen leading to the westward held out the appearance of a pas- sage, but It was less clear of ice, and had a mucli more feeble curl rent than that to the sonthward. 15M. It was this also which s^m^ hkely to lead us soonest to the American conUnent; while, in addi- tion to all these reasons, we had the temptation of a fair Wind in this direction.. ' • « «•* uub At midnight the weather became thick, and sdon after it rained in torrents, when we lost sight of land. As I formerly remarked, our compasses had ceased to traverse whenever the ship had anv motion; and as we had no means therefore of ascertaining the true course, we steered by the wind, the direction of which we had ob- served before It be«une Aick, and by the bearing of a stream of ice which we had noted: under which guidance, and using the pieces of ice as marks, we contrived to make Cape Garry very well It was about four mit^s from us at eight o'clock in the morning; and. at nine, we sounded at about a quarter of a mile, in twelve fathomi The land here was comparatively low, but apparently of the same limestone; and as this was the furthest extremity of the coast which ^ had yet been discovered, our voyage now began^to acquire its pecu- - lar interest, since as yet we had seen nftthin^at was not more or less known. It had also been conjectured that there was an open sea between this point and the American cbntinek: biit this we soon found to be erroneous; since, after turning a liWe to the west- ward, the land, as far as we could judge, extended i^ a south-smiUi- west direction, and appeared to be continuous. ^ At a quarter of a mile from the beach we found l>bttom from ten to twelve fathoms, and continued to run in this depth, and aT Z .■ sanre distance from^the shore, at the rate of three miles and a half in ^Jl7\ fr*"^ *^'^"«u '"""^ P^**'^* °^ heavy ice, which, while fioS^S?i ^ r '""°°?' '^n!^'^** "» ^^ ^^^ water continued suf! ficiently deep for our ship. The greatest danger therefore which we had to apprehend, was that of being suddenly embayed Pand we therefore k§pt,.ourselves in readiness to haul off or to anchor m might prove to be necessary. Though the risk too was considera- fici;n7/:;in.°°* ^''^ "^ '""^ *' ^^' ^'"'* ""^"^ '^^ sea w^ S- hptL^r we came to a fine bay; and, sailing round it, found'it to be about a mde m length and in breadth; and as, by a sineular cc^ Fearnall, I conferred hisjiame on it, and those of two membew of a family to whose kindnesses when fitting out we were mudi iTdebt^ ed on the capes by which it was forme J. Near the bottom of^is &! ' ""^a) ** * ^"**r^ *PP«"«d to be sand, proved to be ZlZT *4;?/W"'^*-?^^«'^'»«™«k«^ere'also'bLgh?upby ^ sounding. The land was here quite clear of snow and ice. ^^^^^^2^^the.npoi„t,a.ul, a little before noon. 9 ifflR-iMf by ff mul t itudg W 4K«?Sf^SK«3;r ir*r-r f^f^^^l^fm!^^^mmm) 4. ^V'-:,: G6 SECOND VOYAGE OP DISCOVERT \ \ channels; exhibiting a deposit of alluvium which is far froih omH- c^mon on these northern shores, and appearing to flow through a conJ\ ^uderable spice inland. It was named Lang river, after my friend or Woolwichyard,who had so much exerted himself for our former expedition: after passing this, the land trended a point more to the Westward. At two we passed another similar, but much smaller stream; and, tWo miles further, a remarkable peaked hill, which I / named Mount Oliver. .^^int appealed shortly, jutting out here to the eastward, about which were collected a number of icebergs aground, indicating the '- preseiice of a shoal, extending about iai mile off; and a narrow inlet opened to the northward of it, which app^red to be full of ice, and was probably shallow throughout, considering that there were but ten fathoms water on the outside. This opinion was confirmed by finding that there was here no appeanmce of any current, either into or out of it, though there was a very strong one running outside. ' I named this inlet Hazard inlet Round this point we found a very small island, to which/ 1 gave the name of Ditchburn, and th« land within it Boothia, at the dis- tance of a mile, appearing to be continuous in the general direction already visible. It now feH nearly cahn; but, while the ice became thicker and heavin*, towards four in the afternoon, the fog cleared away^, and there broke on our view a range of mountains rising be- yond' the land that we had been coasting, which we now saw plearly to be a low and flat tract, continuous eastward with this elevated region, and consisting, not of an uninterrupted plain, but of a series , of low grounds and islets, among which we could but ill discern what was a real island and what was connected by an isthmus with the shore. . Many whales of a light colour came close to us; appearing to be quite indifferent to the presence of the ship; and if this proved that they had no experience/f the fishery, so was it evident that here the whalers might fipd^an easy prey, if it could be expedient for < them to make the tfial, and such trials should be as successful as ours. The mainland now appeared quite blue as the sky continued to brighten, being as clear of snow as the lower grounds. Pursuing our course, we observed a low island surrounded by icebergs, and subsequently a low point, from the end of which several islets and rocks stretched out, appearing to cover a large bay formed in^ the high blue land, and full of Close-packed ice. A low tract was also visible to the southward of this; beyond which the mountain range extended, as far as the eye could reach, in a south-south-east direc- tion as far as we could judge. We could not herd, however, approach nearer, on account of a tract of closely-packed ice, which formed a ci-escent extending from the shore round to the east and north-east This was the first time that our progress had been entirely obstructed; and it was only now we found that we w«re still too early in the season to explore this lioMhis^fta^, TO THB ARCTIC REOIONS. far froih through a con<^ after my friend \ r for our former int more to the much smaller td hill, which I asfward, about , indicating the '- a narrow inlet full of ice, and there were but confirmed by snt, either into nning outside. ' which/ 1 gave ia, at the dis- neral direction the ice became le fog cleared ains rising be- Qw saw plearly this elevated but of a series , 11 discern what limus with the appearing to lis proved that lent that here expedient for successful as sky continued is. Pursuing icebergs, and iral islets and ormed in^ the tract was also suhtain range th-east direc- 67 ^M h^l off and beat streaming from th( , Our estimated disi passage; a discovery tUt consoled us for all our delays, lb spite of which we were now convinced that we had made a greater'progress than we could originally have 6x|iected in a single season, af we should also have guned nothing by being earlier. At eight in the evebing the wind came fresh from the north-west, which gave us an opi^rUinitV of examining more minutely the pos- sibihty of penetrating further; but no opening was to be fbind, neither Was there jUiy clear lipter visible ove^ the ice, in any di- rection s^uth of thd east or wfest We were therefore obliged to le whole night among the drift ice, which was north-west, jiut of the different bays and creeks. ifi/A Tk Ja '<*7«« »''0"t thirty miles south.of Cape Garry. i«A. 1 he wir(d continued about north-west, and, we kept on beat- ig to gain the Weather shore, near the last point we had passed, .hich now bore/ north-west by west At two in the morniVwe ?li^T u *^t/?°«^ of^ till mid? '^ t^n K tt* ** ?]"• yn^r"""*"'^' ^^ "^^^^^ became thik at ten, *) that we could only shape our coufse by the wind; a hazar- • tr' ^l^^} ^ 'l""«''* '^'^"^ ^^*'»°"t °»'- being able to p^rceiveTt, ^ for want of marks or compass, and thus lead uS intp perih Still it was a risk worth venturing; since it was by working to the south- .^,:„t r the full moon, nued to cover a abounded in our collection. iv the amiable 1 bay, and the Qorning, sights 1. The obser- dle, gave 89", an increase of variation also pass over the> far distant * • e point whicH nchorage; and 1 continued to work through the longitude king the place 40' W. We )ceeding8, and 9n which was the iceberg to et go our an- r the point of y; and, there id of the tide, to lead to the int It soon, ve made little ch seemed to inlet in view is rock there lemselves in liip. When- used up, and TO THS ARCTIC RKOIONS. 69 wardithat we might get hold of the land which we presumed to be J the American continent 18th. We continued to run fft the rate of three and a half miles in the hour, among pieces of heavy ice, against some of which we could riot avoid strikin|g; receiving many hard blows, but no da- mage. At four, however, it became so thick, and i the ice so close, that we could penetrate no further, and therefore nliade fast to a floe which we apposed to be near the point "in question, since we had run about twenty miles. The depth of water was at first t^venty- two fathoms; but we soon increased it to thirty-three by drifting. There were sufficient indications that the wind had Continued true north, and therefore that we had steered south and a little easterly. About ten ^e weather cleared, so as to enable, us to see our way to the westward; and we cast off" from the floe to which we had made fast when we had first stopped, since it still continued drifting to the north-east We then stood, to the westward through ice which was often so thick as entirely to stop our progress; and, after much labour by warping, got within sight of the land, which iHras low and encum- bered by a continuation of the reef of rocks which ^. had4)revi- ously seen. As it was, however, possible that there might be a deep channel near the land, I determined to cross this reef, which w& ac- cordingly attempted in a depth of four fathoms, at first, which gra- dually shoaled into two, thus leaving us little more water than we could venture to stay in. Here we made fast to a floe, and sent the boat forward to sound; thus discovering that there was no pas- sage near the land, and being compelled to return by the way that we had attempted. We were favoured in this by the wind shifting a litUe more to the westward, and were enabled to reach the deep water by six o'clock. Wfe could not, however, discover how far we had pro*- ^ ceeded since yesterday, since we had ndr obserVatiot|s at noon. Holding on, nevertheless, we forced our way through the lanes of water, and the loose ice before us; receiving many other severe ' rubs, but no damage either to the ship* or the boat, and, before mid- night, succeeded in getting into some clear water that seemed to lead along the land to the southward. Here the temperature of the sea was 32 », the wind being due north. 19th. We continued to stand to the southward without interrup- tion, till four o'clock on this morning, when, in attempting to pass between two large pieces of ice, they suddenly closed, so as to give us a considerable soueeze, but without any injury; while we ultimately torcfid our way between them. Sooij after this it was evident that the clear water was nearly at an end; arid as the wind had freshened, we had no choice but to make fast for protection, to the largest piece wft could find. This was done at five o'clock; and the wwither be- coming clear a little before eight; we found that the land bore from nort^i-north-west to south by east, and the nearest point, which was -'^ J^ 70 BBCOITD VOrAOE 0» USCOVJCHr &t„?w "'t"*°^' '^*"' ^'y """^ There were now fortyWive fathoms water; but we were closely beset by the ice which %«^t pKi^'s ^S^ iT^ '^^'^ Knisenstern was n"w <^ Xnl wehfd dHft^ r^ ^^ ?*","*' '"^ t"*^"^" ""on ^ found that smooA ifn J •»?'^^ ^**°™"' *"** **»« '''»°'* nearest us was a flat, Before noon the ice, which was the heaviest we had vet ««»n drift S tC!^t' ""*'PP«d « «»»« to save it We cZnued £ ^£i ' ^ .. w*ckened * little, so as to inve us the means of en- S tUTiS^^ Ae rudder which was Sen hoiSed"uT^d Wd Krusen8tern^early.out of the waterjand turned our own hwdto S« shorej but a&r this we lay quiet aU night, in deJaTsTwrl^K fr^m »\n^t A ^^**»«''J^?» ^9re clew this morning than it had been Sk ^"^i '^'l'^* ^"•* " ?ood view of this newlyslis«>"ered £ which extended from nortK 250 west to south 80 W We had S of rtt JSL*^^ . °* "" ?"'' ""y^^ '^^ «°"W '^ that Uiis con- vS« K? f^ ® I^estone. It was a smooth tract, as far as it ^L n^^ir^*'''. ^"' °''*' '" **^°* «f *«" i»»es, without eSierk^ pressions or rising grounds. That behind it offered, as itiad don^ tefore,aoomplete contrast of character; having tS^VSli^^ irregularity of surface which marks the granit/oran^lS^Sf "'Th^'oi'™.°''P^r r^°"""S' snaking ™pearVadXwur^ The coast was broken and hollowed intilSue bays and skirt^ by rocks and small islands; one of which apZJK. mil^ to the eastward; whence we concluded that such wm thl. «S!~i elevation and tendency of the limestone, flat Tft m?ghf ha^e a^ peared to us when seen in a different direction. The latiSdt oC The ice shll continued closely packed and drifUng, with several lanes of w^ among it Many wTiales were K«n. toSe? wUh some seals; but we could not contrive totake^anyTtCSr The ^ now forty-five e, which, as it Btened, carried Dw cast olf and we found that thward. t us was a flat, otte. Behind ight, but blue, lan °the lower hat direction, longitude 94° 7l« 80', as we liad yet seen, r was barely, continued to the ice, until means of en- I up and laid ice lifted the ^ n head to the rarying from on^ the land, ! whole body Valid that of off. 1 it had been »vfered land, *. We had carying the at Uiis con- far 88 it ^as It either de- itjiad done gedness and gous rocks, rk blue, and skirted ut a mile in a low point the general I ■ TO TBI ABCtIC UeiOlfS. ♦ ■ ■ ■ iiundings exhibited fragments of granite and limestone; and the temperature of the air and water were, respectively, 39,® and 32". We aired the small sails and the people's clothes; jind several mat- ters were done in the ship in the carpenter^s department, and in that of the engineer; especially in' clearing the pipes of the coke dust by which they were choked. *rhe wind was variable during the day; and, by the marks on the shore, we could see that we drifted, sometimes to the northward and at others to the southward^ as the ice moved; invariably deepening the water in the latter direcUon, and finding it vary from 48 to 69 fathoms, with a calcareous muddy bottom and stones. The motion and state of the ice formed an anxious subject, to' those especially to whom this region was new: we, who were experienced, were easily consoled for such detention as this, by recollecting how much further we had already penetrated than former expeditions, thoudi under the manjr disadvantages by which we had been attended. There was not, indeed, any immediate prospect of a release; and even we, who had acouired experience from other voyages in these regions, wreP| somewhat disconcerted by finding that a formation of new ice wks commencing on the holes near the ship's side; the thermometer, for the first time, falling as low as 29° in the water, while the air was only 30°. Still we thought that the clear water near the land was increasing in dimensions, and the great packs of ieftlMoming !•» 4" '■•^ v l\ ^■; i ^,,,1. .'•'* -»■•■'<•««»-.>.■ s ■^ 73 SECOND VOYAas OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER IX, Kr; \i^ ■ f J 1 mosphere bein^ as clear as the air was calm. "' ° **" of oiT r w ***" djsplayed the same flat features, forraineli cresr^nf the shTo Lir A?rJ? ?*""*> ""'^ *° ^'^^ north ofTep^ofntwS form man3^ harbours andTreeki wJ ^ 7'*'*'^ appeared to increasca>to 87 fathoms -«5ri,« «,«! ^ , ^®P*" *** *"^ ^a^r and bito for a new bow.prit Tow«xi> tlie evW "he El„ J^ ll.e lee wa. more prceptible, and a lane of dear Tfter to h *l?.k east wa. diMernible by the terrestrial rcfraclion TkI k T"" ; whieKhadcohtinuedJaiKd on Se ice Z™H ,„T''° ''niMnstern, ;"-«l?,™ a «on,ide,»ble pool re^i'S^lwr ' ""'"' °°'' was similarly wounded, but escaped inTe iTHSaLr ' '""""«' f t> - ,*■ - t ■ \ TO THX ARCTIC BSOIOIII. 78 At noon the latitude showed us that we had been drifted throes- quarters of a mile to the north; as we found ourselves a mile off thf shore, by the bearings of the land. Owing to the clearness oif the day we had the best view of the coast that we had yet obtained; and as we could mor6 certainly perceive a line of clear water near it, our incapacity to extricate ourselves from the ice was the more pro- voking. The teniperature of the air rose to 40°, and that of the water to 35": the land, in the evening, becoming very much ele- vated by the refraction, so aa to exhibit the open water along the shore with great distinctness. ' ^ 23rf. Early this morning the wind came from the south-eaist, and rendered it necessary for us to cast off from the floe which had been our anchorage for so many days; when the ice having slacked, we were able to get half a* mile nearer to the land. At nine, however, we were arain obliged to make fast to a ^e of ice which we could not pass. Being Sunday, divine service was performed. After din- ner we got two miles nearer the land, by sailing an^ warping; but atsix wewdw aanin obliged to bring up at a ^ge floe, in fifty fa^oms water. The temperature of the air varied from 35* to 37", and that of the water was about 31". It was altogether a beautiful day, with a clear sky and a li^t breeze. We saw here some sea unicoma and many seals; and, during the . evening, found ourselves drifting to the southward, though^e had made some nothing in the mornmg when under sail. No clear water was seen on W^is day except to the north-east; but the ite was appa- rently lighter, 4nd it had not frozen during the preceding night The *.ce being too unsteady for the arUficial horizon, no observations were procured. The weather continued fine at midnight 24th. The morning, being cflm, gave us some hopes of getting neareTvto the land, especially as the ice seemed sufficiently opened to allow us to force the ship through it The engine was therefore got ready,^d we began to propel with the paddles and icepoles at seven o clock; ao that^ although the engine acted very ill, we suc- ceed, by two, in getting hold of a large iceberg which lay aground about a mile from the low point which bore south-west when we started. About noon, a breeze had however aprung up from the east* C;'*^, and thus checked our attempts to get further south at this time. ••We were fortunate, nevertheless, in having secured ourselves to thiA immovable rock of ice; since, as the evening came on, the whole pack which we had quitted began to drift with great velocity to the northward, showing us what our own fate would have been had we remained^ with it The ice to which we were fast was aground in seven fathoms; and after this the water rose above four feet; the tide beginning here to the southward, while that in the offing was run- ning m the contrary direction.' The weather being cloudy, no ob- aei^ions were made, but at midnight the air wu at 3^nnd the ^ wat# at 30°. Many seals were seen, and the lead brought up lime- '* V y _ii- ->/ : 1 f « ^■■-.- •CC OMO V97AOK or DISCOVMIT ■tone. Qur pofition was in (he middle of a large bight, and we tad -closed in the island to the southward. « o » ^-^ am. We had fully ceiolved to try the steam, but the wind nnoy us. All that we wanted was a fair wind, as tJi6 passage along the land was cleiir; yet even this want wasp/oba- Wy\moiir favour as matjters wCre situated; since, by carrying the ; ice aiway from the quarter.jW which our views were directed, it : ^°rU!*^'?*'*?^y 8«ve us a stjH clearer sea in no long tirtfe. ' ^noiigh the wind increased considerably towards evening, the weather became much warmer, and, to our great joy, there came on some rain, since we pOncluded that it would aid in thawing and • breaking up the ice, At nootfgie observed latitude was 70° 54' ■ being rather more^ap four n|j^^ bf our last observation. One. sed was killed, i^id proved ^client At noon the air was at se** arid the water at 32°, with no vari^itioBs afterward; and the tide con- tinued to nse about four feet and a half. - ' ^ , 26/A. At six o'cloik this morning it became quite calm, and the ' ice being sufficiently open to the southward, the water sm^th, and nof current, the engine was put in action, but performed so badly that we made no more than one mile ita the hour, not being able to ob- tain more than seven revolution^ in a minute. We ps^sQd the low point near which we were moored, in seven fathoms water, at the distance of two m?les from the beach, and then grad X into eighteen, when we opened the entrance of a -,d to the south-east At thi^ttom of this thei a Mfeam, and the land that vf^Wre approaching to; consisting, ia.that part, of what again .«,«,»-«, o^ «-a- K!!L fiS: ♦ '^»w.'l£?^'*'*.J° '^ Kmeston^.a« before, with miny Jfe f^entjL WiAm a mile of the shore the water deepened to .^ififty fa^oins;- J)ut even here We found that the large icebeife were . Jiyg9°> touting the rocfcs in many places. f ■% "WkJI^tJbi^'cTock a fog came on, but we were able to kiep the *'«iling{iswithin a quarter of a mile of it At seven j^nt to look for a harbour in the bay, afid he 3 ^fjk^^y gool. I»^^ . eimiine in<.r» particalw^^Xj3°" ^l .T.''"' ~"*''<'» •" midnight there wL a breJS ^rtr^ ir'" ^°.^ At the bottom of the bav. I must nn^^ '"O- the^wL^rmtrrie^^^t^^^^^^^^ ^y theicewasset k uZ^ellndlS ' ^^^'.^'^''^K^^^^Jk", floe which impeded ^dl mt^l' rtTl^ **» a large and heivy panied this chSa#e wbuIdlS k ^5.'•''. "^^^^^^ ^*'»«»> *c«o»n- P«liment, sin" eX WM.t if th^ t^!^ '^" i? '"^'^ * '^"'"P'^^ ™- bb upder such drL^TtlnL A? P"^' *^^?^ «»««" « ™poMi- The «,b were l«.weverl«»ed,.n«w.rp. bid ™,, i„ e:q».taiio„ ' ; i ..fc. in, and killed a a snow bunting. ! Tay, and at the bay, about two of it extending one there was a good harbour id Moltke bay, f this, appeared ^ rdswide; being offer a passage uid. From its i-east, present- ad occasion to southernmost ; south 14° E. we wfeTre now bore south of ut which had Bof the frag- ; and towards »t The tide Ulrmoon; but found about between two » recent erec- id been occu- • and some fox * ih were once I to-day than ichine, since le moi^ mo- foggy- ppointed by ig the night, and heavy liich accom- >niplete im- i«impossi- >eared to be . the north; ,the south- TO THB ARCTIC REaiOVS. 77 .V Aat the weather might so far clear up a^ tected by'Jh'e As weivould not venture on shore to-dav. for fear nf a <.h.»»« • our favour, it was employ^ i„ examintgld pre^l* S^"«L? H^v'^iJSS^f **r^'^ ^*l*^ "^ coflectelSTSyletre^A r«^method of d«m«ng the seal skins was found, by putting tiiem ^ M S' '^J*".**^ were rendered free of every pS of ftSh ine seal s flesh, as before, turned out lood. with vera mn»i. «r ♦». the good fortune to i«»yer .nfe which had Gillen ovwhwd hrt , «&M."It was high water this morning it two; beinir nearlv »f *Kn t\r^' 1. .u^**® rose exacUy six feet; having been but ttiSs^Lf S wlft'* ^* P*!!^''?« '^'y* '^ "» *« foltowin^t hdf^ o^' It was but twentymo inches. This is a sufficient nroof^^hei^ gjilarity of the tides in this stnut; preventing TpSSbLw ^ srcrtiiftt*5^j"'«^"«°'*^*''^«"^^^^^^^^ bT?i was in thit direction- Lirw«oi^/ ^® f°"* '^*»®" *^« w'nd the southwaiS ' ^"^ '^'^ '^"''"y *«tor in proceeding to 6n the coast ffif tlT^tt T'^k ^ '*^ '"'''*^'* ****** •^" ^^^ven uwi aunng tne night We therefore cast loose from the 78 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEBY ■^ ■\ I,-' I ^ iceberg, and made sail; yet could flS round. As the day advanced the snow turned to sleet, and at lenirth to a,8teady rain; the temperature of the air rising afterwards to 37° Wi^ this, the snow on the hiUs began to m?|lt and disappear. Going on shore, a lane of water was found to have made its appearance in the gouth, and another in the east, while the ice began also to slacken both to the northward and southward of our harbour. The rivers were found much swollen, but no animals were seen. This day the water only rose two feet and a half. , Sept.Ut. At four in the morning, as there appeared a possibility ot workmg the shipinto clear water, she was hauled out to an ice- berg, and by the'aid of a north-north-west wind, we contrived to steer along the land in a southr^ast by south course. We passed outside the low island, and then boi^ up for the outermost point, though in constant doubt of our position, 'from the thicki^essof the weather and the frequent changes of course we were obliged to make m working through the ice. But it cleared at seven, sb as to show us the land, bearing from south 88° east to south, and also from south to south-south-west It was the island which we had seen on the twentieth, but its distance proved to be much greater than we had then imagined. It was named Alicia island. Wb kept under swl as long as we could, but were at last compelled, by the closing of the ice, to make fast to a large piece of it, which hapiwned to be at hand. This, with the whole pack, proved to be driftinir to the southward, and thus brought us nearer to the islands, though we were beating in the opposite direction. Towards evening it became moderate, and the ice seemed to have stoppei. The rudder was theretore unshipped, and the Krusenstern placed in a secure sitaation, m case we should become permanenUy beset, as now appeared in- evitable; while I need not say that we were once more reduced to a state of utter helplessness. The temperature of the air was 36° in the day, b»t at night it fell to 34°. The depth of water was 5a lathoms, and the distance from the nearest land three miles: but as we approached within two miles in drifting to the southward, it deepened to eighty fathoms. Some seals were seen, and anlvorv euU was shot , ' ° r.Jtf'^^^^^t morning the ship had drifted ahreast of the high^ part of that island which had been«) long in sight; which nowilow- ever, proved to be, not one island, as we had thought, but a rocky Cham of islets extending in a south-east and north-west direction. fo^Ll *^' "^f /^ f ' f"'* ^^ '°"«it"**« 92° 6'; whence we found th^t we had made eleven miles to the southward. After to tLnn^KT?^*- ^y ^'^*^'' ^^ ^^'"« »bout thr^ miles wp^.^ ' ."" .'*° °*.?'' d'^^ction. The islands, from which Trl^^i'?*''^*^"^^ ^T- ^^^ '^'»*»"*' P^"t«d the most barrcB- and repulsive tract which we had yet seen; displaying a^ enS« m A;, ■/J ■ 1 ■ 1 V 1 i 80 SECOND VOTAOS OF DISCOVERT surface of dark iand rugged rocks, without the least trace of vegeta- tioh, or the presence of even a bird to enliven them. The.cleameM of the day allowed us to see some land which appeared to be about nine leagues off; and it was higher, as it seemed to us, than what we had passed before; while, in the intermediate space, were more of the cocky islands. The piece of ice to which we were now fast was about two acres in dimensions,'^nd had 9. pond of fresh water, whence we replenished our stock ; after which it was made a washing place for such articles as demanded this operation. Though the temperature of this day was only 40°, the dogs were panting w.ith heat, and seeking tdch shade as they could find on the rough 'ice. It however fell to 31° before eight o'clock, and finally to 29". The depth of water was here ninety-five fathoms. Except a small whale, no living animals weve.seen about this placel The snow had disappeiuvd from this' part of the land, with exception of a small quantity on the mountains • in the extreine distance. In the evening it wjs calm, and we con- tinued fast beset, but drifting to the southwardwith the whole pack. At midnight we sounded in a hundred and twenty faUioms, with a muddy bottom. 3d. The weather was thick this mortung, with light and variable winds, chiefly from the northward. Tli^^ater shoaled to sixty- five fathoms, and then deepened to eighty. The ice was fast^l ^und us, but appeared more slack towards the islands we had {iassed. In the afternoon the fog turned to small rain, the thermo- meter being at 36" ; and some clear weather in the evening dtsco- ^red to us that we had made three miles further south since yester- day^ The sight of one bear and one seal was not enough to enliven this Wearisome day. It a{|ipeared to us, at this point of bur progress, that the large island, Whose aspect had so often changed, consisted in reality of three, which formed part of a rocky chain extending along the copt as far as we could see, and which, by stopping the ice, caused the difficulty of the inshore navigation. Thus we again found use for Our patience : while, by following this cljain in the train of the ice, we trusted that we could always, keep behind such heavy masses as would ground in time to prevent us from being wrecked or suffering any material injury. Heavy rain at midnight, with a shift of wind to the eastward, gave us some hopes of a change, though setting us on the shore. 4th. As the wind had shifted, during the night, to the east-south- east, we found this morning that we had drifted two miles to the northward, approaching towards the shore at the same time. It rained hard till nine, and the wind iincreased to a gale ; so that, by noon, we had drifted four miles further in the same direction, being fixed between two floes, but so as rto sustain no injury. Thick weather coming on at three, we saw the land no more,- but were convinced by the lead that we wev6 cohtinuing to driv^; and after -- * race of vegeta- The. clearness red to be about , than what we , were more of bout two acres we replenished ir such articles re of this day i seeking lltich ve^r fell to 31° 1 of water was living animals ired from this' the mountains ' if and we con- tie whole pack, ithoms, with a lit and variable )aled to six^- !e was fast^l ilands we had hf the thermo- evening dfsco- h since yester- >ugh to enliven that the large i in reality of ing along the >ping the ice, 'hus we again I cl^ain in the , keep behind svent us from tleavy rain at gave us some the east-south- o miles to the une time. It !e ; so that, by irection, being ijury. Thick lore,- but were Wh; and after TO THB AmOTIC BBOI0H8. 81 various changes of soundinss, found ourselves, by the evening, in one hundred and twenty fathoms, which diminished to seventy-6ve at midnight The shootmg of a glaucous guO, and of a seal, were the onlv amusements pf a provoking day, under which we were losing all the ground we had just beep gaining, if not more. 5th. The gale ijOQtinuing all night, with rain, the large floe separated from us very early 'in the morning; and, as it became clear, we found that we had drifted off the land.. Perceiving then that the whole- pack had considerably slackened, we attempted, in conse- quence, to force through it towards the land, in spite of many heavy blows, which fortunately did no mischief. We here found that our latitude was 70^ 55', and that we had lost nineteen miles, in a northerly direction, together with fourteen miles in longitude, during the three hours which we had been driving with the ice. • At five it deared, and we say, in the south-east, but at a greater, distance, the never-ending island which, it almost seemed, we were destined not, to quit Forcing the ship through much hM% ice, we at last cleared the whole pack; when, the wind favouring us a litU^ we made up all the way that we had lost, and having again jpot hold of the land, made fast, at ten o«clock, to an iceberg aground m five fathoms, and about five hundred yards from the Siore. It rained hard till midnight, but was nearly calm. We saw two whales on this evening, with several seals; and the water was clear between the pack and the shore, while we were surrounded by large icebergs. ' 6M. The wind continued in the same quarter^with rainy< weather, so that we could form no plan for proceeding. Ahsr divine ser- vice we went on shore to s^ fojr a morMecure harbopr, as our pre- sent place was a very unsafe one. EnteBng an inlet with the boat, about a quarto- of a inUe wide, we sounded in fifteen fiithoms; and, foUowing It for a mile, we found it open into a spacious harbour, having twenbr fathoms in the middle; and shoaling gradually to the sides. We here too ascertained that what we hwl taken for an urtand, the night before, was a peninsula. The harbour was named JJilwabeth, in compliment to a sister of the patron ef our expedition. The country consisted of limestone and granite, resembling what we had formerly examined. A herd of reindeer passed at a suffi- cient distance to make us waste some shot, if not to tantalize us. as we proceeded to ascend the hill to the southward. Hence weLd a perfect view of a harbour not exceeded by any in the world; he- lore this, we had not been ablcT to form a just estimate of its extent or nature. The pttrsuit of some hares whiich we saw, did not, how- ever, tempt us to prolong our stay, since we could discover that the ice was drifbng fast upon us.' •■ ■; ./U^ -r ■ . ■ , n ^ , 1 .-&!> ^^t» 7 .- V UOOHD TOTJtOJi-or DISCOTKBT =jir I CHAPTER/ X. M^^riJS^'**^ '^'^ ^i^ ""^"^ tAe fee, ani escape p^^^^ .^'"'^«^JP^'''»>^ Pf Eclipse Har^^ ^^^*^ Oi9covenes—Cape St. CatherintyandLax Harbour. f^^V^^r^'^ "*" ^ ^y '^° °'«*o«k» we ™»de sail theny lore from the ,ceber|, and entering into the harbour, moored the jhip to a wnall one in seven fathoni?, not far from the beach. A boat was then ditched to^ see if there was any exit on the south- ern or eastern side; but the^ result was, that we had entered by Ihe only openm^ as it was also found that it was separated from the Jtout mthout, by arnarrftw range of limestone about three miles long, level and straight The lipundiry to the westward was of high land, and that to the nbrth consisted of lowerhiUs interapersed Sf fiS?if°"*"SP*i. *e rocky point and peninsula whSi we had 4m taken poSB^a fomii^^^^ presented many^yanetie^aiid was studded with garnets, probably in &e veim^ whitifcwe did not take sufficient care nS^J,«^ tS!1. I now mdeed suspect, that <^n tfiis and other occi^ons, what LaTUT" ^'"*® '^"* gneiss;\a mistake which is often easily^ ' ^^SL?^*^** '^."^* P"f "«* mineralogists; but as I coufl^ not «>llect specimens at every pface tha^ was vfsited, and as I could "!*;„ 2"« J?."* •^'»»^^«»<>'»whieh were collected,.for future ex- , ammatoon, this jery ununportant error, if such it be, must remain. I hJ^^ evening, landing at the north side, and ascending the W?J^*''''"'^^''^**'**^'°«^»»'»»^tte»• view of this roleii- . ^o^^I'VJ^^^" "^^^f^^ ^"^* navy might safely Hde. , ^!^f .^ ourselves, to have taken refuge here; but we saw ^ ratfks^of any shoals or rocks within it In majy parts there were five jaAoms water close to rocks on the sho«,Xre vess^^mT^ Hf«!;jl. P^V"*^ "^^T *®y "^«^' •*«> J^e^ve down and reiSir SS 'J'''/^"^ •""fk" 0° the margin, we judged that there ^ 7th. In the evening it blew hard from the northward, bringinir the ice past the place which we had left, and packing up tie whole %■■ . -•» * . TO rn aIctic BKoibM. gj channd to the louthward. But we w^re safe, and quiet; with the ' securitpr that if this ice should dear away, we could easily git out by ^d jpf the tide, add take advantage of the opening. The tem- perature of the air was from 34" to 35*, and that of the water Sa". At midn^ht there was rain, the wind continuing fresh. It nihhd heavily all the morning, and a good' deal of smdl ice drifted into the hariK)ur,ph>Ving that there was a considerable quan- tity inoyins along the strait with the current We therefore pro- ceeded in the boat, to examine into the condition of things outside, more particularly, And landed on the northern isthaius. We thus saw, that at the back of the great isthmus, the quantity of ice was much diminished since the preceding day, while there was a bay to the eastward quite clear; but, near the mainland, it was still closely -packed. The west side of the southern islands, however, were also clear of ice. In this excursion we saw some- reinrdeer, and shot three white hares. The air felt' warm; but, on board, the thermo- meter was only 36% the weather being calm, witll k thick fog. 8th. Though things remained in the same Hate fill noon, we ex- pected a wind, and therefore left the harbour by means of the ebb . and of towing; making fast to an iceberg at the entrance, that we ■ might be ready. But the wind coming now from the soUthisouth- east, we could proceed |o furthw^ and I therefwe sent a parly to examine the state of thiiigs along shore, in the whale hoat, which was, however, obliged to stop after proceeding two miles. Being then hauled up, the party proceeded by land along the isthmus, and thus saw that the ice was closed up to a rock at its termination, so as to prevent all further passage in this diieetioa. Two rocky is- . lands and a good harbour were also seen in this quarter; as it was further ascertained, that while the shore was covered with heavy ice, the channd of moving ice and water lay -between it and the heavy pack which was about three miles (^. The evening bdng calm, and the ice stationary. Commander Ross went on shore to take an^es, and »n his way found a dead deer, which we had wounded on^ur first hndingJ It was so large that tiiey eould only brin^ on HSrd the head and horns, leaving it for flie next day to remove, a carcase too valuaUe to be lost Men 'Jv?»re also sent to erect a cdm , and that of the water, 31 °. 1 1/A. Our iceberg floated last nij^t at half-past twelve; but we at last succeeded in mooring it, together with Ourselves, to the rocks within a small bight on the side of the stream; while, as it drew mora water than the' ship, it kept us frqm grounding; allowing us to lie quiet all night Within a few jrards oTtiie rocks, and in three &thoms water. After a foggy morning, ' tiiere j^peared, at one, some chance of moving, as there was a fresh breeze from the north* west The attempt, however, was made in vain; and, after three hours of hard labour, we «ouId neither proceed nor extricate the ship, so that we were oblij^ to submit ourselves to the ice, which was now closely packed m the whole channel wMeh it oceupieZ , It was in vain that we attempted to disengage ourselves, evm when < It got into motion; laboorins hard jfbr this purpose till ten o'clock: but a calnr occurring at midnight, we became comparatively tran- quil and easy. . 12th. Neyerthelefls it vras a critical position, Jieset in' the rapid current of a rocky channel, at the spring tides of the autumnal equi-' nox; and, as the tide rose, the heavy masses of ice whicli were set afloat mcreased our danger, its action fbreing them on us. We therefore thoudit ourselves lucky in getting hold of a grounded iceberg; thougfi the points of rocks were appearing aU art^nd, and close by our ^ip. Unfortunately, however^ a wind springing up from toe westward, brought down an additional quantity of iw. Wore delight, with a great increase of pressure; when the whole mass began to move to the eastward with frightful rapidity, canying Jong wrth It our helpless ship^ and amidst a collision and noise, frm^ the breaking of the ice agvnst the rocks, which was truly awfol. 1 1 s^rtwir*- A»* •■'i" •I i i, t.( t ** SBCOKD VOTAO* OF DIMOVMT *r /The day hia acarcely damned when we found ounelvei near to a I Sif JJXr ^"l?'?."!!"^*''' «"»<* it '^w for ««n6 time doubtful f «to whwh we ahould be huiried, or whether we mixht not rather te dnven on the rocks which surrounded us on all ^de.,^melS: lnIt??T"*^"°'*~r*^^«'*- B"t our good fortune'prevailS^ ■Bd the stream earned us into the northernmost and widertpassaw thpugh .t was to the north-eastMHu.d, and therefore othei^^ro*!?; .w»i„ i!"*' ° comblete our iuccess^such as it was, the ice toBordinary exertions; on which, making her fast to a grounded iw- te„r^^ found^ourselyes n«r the point on the horth'^ride of thi^ channel, and ielt oi^ftelves thus secure for a time. " " ™» M^^^h^M "{?^*'lL°** ^P^^^y when conterting our way io this ^the ah,p had been^repeatedly raised, «d «metimiJ1«eJed over by the pressure; while the Krusenstem was once S»C^ of the wat«» on the ice. But neither received any inj^ We t^ ST'' ? i? "T''^= «»"' «very new adventure J^^ had Ae good effect of ncreasing our confidence, iathe case dffiSS «d sunflar emwtencies; of which, it was iSt too certain,^, were many yet before us. v«.«««,i«wb, w^iJ^if?*'''*^*^*^'*'^"** **' a rapid one, setting io the ^ward, droT«us from our place of refuge; md we wcrfcanied mthmia,reeyardsirf^somerock.which wire just undet watenS - ST^ iL F.£"iJ^'J'l? ***"' ««tti°« into ^seemeSto bcrtS w^r, we tboured hard by warping; there be% a small creek »m- ^tSL^""** 'll^^'i ^^^'^ outa«t>miseTf securi^Tto, ^»H Sl^. J P^^ ^** • whirlpool!: and having be^ tum3 tSu!!!*-!^!! *°""**^^ '*°l* '""^to *»» confusion without of ice which was floafang alon^ in the middle of the stream; HoSm m ™^l,* T^u'^ V ^ had just been enduri^gT ^ We were thus at length^ extricated, but not without undeSroinK i^Sf '*^'*' "^'^ ^^^ ""^"K ™ to the westward, evS ^,^!Ll23"« '^''^^- .The tide, however, diminish^iTSreTS we proceeded; and as the smaller pieces of ioe now sailing ^ " ^t^a^^r^'''''^'^'^ wereattachedXlhTbl sst^Ur^irctr^^jt^! '^^ '"^ *» -^^ fluence before the change. But the wind was righf^iTuir^d v^' bv'SI^t *? '^^ "^" n«r" ^»*»» our sa^and sich J JhuT ^ P*n"S.**» wiiMiward; ^lle, to anchor in a tidew»y like Aiswas outof the question. Thus we soon found that i^ were losing ground; but at four o'clock^e began to gain coMWerSr when It fell suddenly calm. A harbour n^ sJ^b^StS^J; r- ' TO TKS ABCTIC SKGIOHI. 87 in the aeareat land, w« contrived to waip into it by neami of the boats, and foundvAiod shelter behind a reef of rocks, lined by ice* bergp, within a dkble'a length of the shore; making fast to-two.of these masses which were agrpund in four fathoms water. More than I ampng us had witnessed similar SGeikgi|and, in some manner or other, we had been extricated: but, wiUi all this, we "•^tould not but feel astonishment, as well as gratitude, at our having escaped here without material damage. For readers, it is unfortu- nate that no description cap convey an idea of a scene of this na- hire; and, as to the pencil, it cannot represent motion, or noise. And to those who have not seen a northern ocean in winter — who have not seen it, I should say, in a winter's storm— the term ice, exciting but the recollection of what they only know at rest, in an inland lake or canal, conveys no ideas of what it is the fate of ,an ':^ awjtic navigator to witoess and to feel. But let them remember that ice v-^ne; a floating rock in the stream, a promontory or an island when aground, not less solid than if it were a land of granite. TTien let them imague, if they can, these mountains of crystalhurled thrwigh a nurrpw strait by a rapid tid^; meeting, as mountains in motion would meet, with the nois^^ thunder, breaking from each other's precipicM huge frayimw^or rending each o)her asunder, Wi, l08in|5 their former equilibrium, they fall over headlong, lifting ^e wa around in breakers, and whirling it in eddies; while the flat- ter fields of ice, forced against these masses, or against the rocks, by the wind and the stream, rise out of the sea till they fall back on themselves, adding to the indescribable commotion and noise which attend thes^ occurrences. _ It is not a little, too, to know and to feel our utter helplessness in !^ ''^ ^*"' " '*°' * moment in which it can be conjectured what mil happen in the next: there is not one which maynot be the last; and yet that next moment may bring rescue and safety. It IS a stranae, as it is an anxious position; and, if fearful, often givine S;„!Sw« ' tfll** unexpected is every event, and so quicic thi teansih^Ds. ^ the noise, and the motion, and the huary in every thing around, we distracting, if the attention is troubled to fix on *°7 t'Mng .an»»d such confusion, still must it be alive, that it may vif ?*K *V»«»« moment of help or. escape which may ocCuf. , Yet wij aU tlM, and it is the hardest task of Jl, there is noL^ »J'f!f*^'r*^?.***i^* °T*^= ^ *0"8^ "^ very sight of the movemeirt around mcbnes the seaimtn to £ himself busyf while we ^^^fl2T^ the instinctWdirects „. ^ help Lselves in ^\^ ^^' ^ u"? ^ I«tf»ent, as if he were unconcerned or manner in which Sie had been st«n^ened. It is plain that eiSier W i s i t i- :ii r ■1 taoojnt'VQf AAJi Of onQovBir »• '(#^■^5^^-% ■■^■. . the ihipi eniDloyed on the former expeditioiu must have b«ea •re lort, from their mere draught of water, linoe th«y would have uok on thf> rocka over which we were hurried by the ice; while, h(Jw«?ver forUfied, they would have been oruahed Bke a nutaheuTn ec^naequene^gjll^eirahape. -u«*,« lOor poaitSS; ffter tbia adventure, waa on the mainland, aeven . milea from the cairn which we had erected on the tenth: beinc not •Uf°" *^° harboura, oph on each aide of us; which I namedT The night waa clew, and it began to freeze at eleven. At mid- njght there waa a vi4g_ecUpai of the mo^n, but the weather did njt permit of any obi^tiona. I named the pUce Eclipse harbour; and we found high water, with^a nae of aeven feet, at a quarter be^ Ipro three, at full moon. . A I8/A. Ebrlv in the morning t aac^nded the high land near the fliore, by which I found that it waa poaaible to proceed a few mUea .along the^coaat: and, after building A cairn and taking aome anidea. rreturned on board, and we got under way at nine with a weateriy ?i;S1"«i 1*^*^,*? ^'^ MMthward through ntew ice which of- fered litUe reaiatattce J and, aa we proceeded, Se heavy maaaea be- came mora dack. Paaring » ru^ point, with iceberga aground. It received the name of Cape AlUngton, being the boundarvTere, of theapaaouaharbourjuatmentionedby the naniekEcUhae harbm^ v We very aoon rounded a cluater of ialeta, which, aa equaUy new, I named Grace; and, paaaing theip> we aaw a round ialand, now alao wed Louiaa. lyithin theae, such channel aa thero seemed, waa ^iif: ***,'."? *«^ow»P««ng to the eaatwardi We approached, at tld^ clock, a ampoth rocky ialand about two mileain ciroum- fi^nee. ^t being calm, we atteihpted ti tow the ahip between'it and the prepediog onea;, when the tide changed, and we wera dad to aecuie ouraelvea for the night to an iceberg that was aground nttr it, which formed a anug harbour with an ialet with wlu^ it wo in Mntact , - ^ ««?^*i. »ir-» Ml . Thia ialand was tW niaea Irom EdSpae hartxmr; |^^ a^n from the ejctremihr of the land to the aoii&ward. Oh inapection, w«» found It a aolid i^paaa of granite intei^ted by veina: pad we ^ got^obaerved &a|5menta of pmeatone and 6f yeUow aa^^atone. Here w? j.uilt a wm, with a pole on which waa ftatened the ahip'a toSS^ rtf?*^*.*^*^^*^^"/^P'^- Theprogpwtwaaauehaa to ahbw ua that^ £ur wmd ^rnght carry ua dear of-the ice aa far aa that point which^aeem^d aevwi milea off; but beyond thia we could barely Jiaoom that the }and did not trend to the eaatwaid. An ialand waa aejn, 0^ with, |te cape; and^ pear thia, a harbour, which waa named Lax idand, whjle, to a large inlet, f^U of ice, aouth of thia, I ttve the name of Miiy Jones bay. ^ On the aouth side there were amaller inleta and creekar and. to the north, a remarkable mountain, shaped like a tomb, and covered on tiie aouth aide with areddiah vegetation. It waa named Chrw- tian s monument FroeiSeding along the coaat, we found an E^qui- 3"' .w J_.. V. ' -**--. .\ 'p *• . tuct have bfea ley would have the ice; wh|le, e a Qutihell, in tainland, aeyeii nth; being not 1 1 named, ven. At mtd- le weather did. clipse harbour; t a quarter be- land near th6 ed a few milea {oome angles, rith a westerly r ice which of- tvy nuuMeebe- >en, eins; iii4 we - w saOM^ne. led the ship's t wassuehas i ioe.asfiuras this we could stward. An fhour, which ice, south of ieks; and, to and coveied libed Chris- idjBitl^ui- rf ^ - TO Tsii AacTic ftBoioirs. V .«' » 89f ^ maux fox-trap, with some remains of summerhabitations, and counted thirty-three islands of different sizes. The vegetation on this island, which is in the middle of the bay, was very backward compared to that on the mainland. • The new ice hAd totally dissolved this day ; the temperature of the air being 38*, and that of the sea 32°. There was nd^ no snow on the high mountains of the interior to the southward, and all the fresh water lakes and pools were open. In the jBvening the wind came from the south-south-east, and thus prevented us from moving: while the Water fell so low as to compel us to haul further^ut l"*'*- It was high water soon after one in iM morning, and the tide rose to six feet eight' inches, with the flood from the northward. The two icebergs to which we were moo<;ed just ^floated; but we kept them fast to the shore by ropes until th« tide had lowered. A thick fog prevented us from moving till two; when, the wind being nOi^h-north-west, we made all sail and stood' for the. point through Ipose ice, which, however, soon closed, so as to oblige us to run for a small bay to the north- of the cape. .',■'■ This proved^ very sood shelter: and having gone on shore, and ascended Uphill on the point, we saw that^the ice was still more open than itliqd been the day before, that the laud trended more to the southward, imd that the outermost portion was but an island, six or seven miles fh)m the mainland. Many fine harbours were also visible, :and the shWe was intersected by inlets in f very direction. Havins taken the uSqal formal possession of this cape, since even that which is nugatory or absurd must be done where custom dic- tates, a cairn and a beacon were erected, with the ship's name, and toe date, on a plate of copper, as before. This cape was named Verner, and the harbour Joanna. The geology was here nearly what it had all alons been: but one of the mastes of grafiite formed a pyramid alike striking from its form and its dimensions, while we also perceiyi^^me coarse argillaceous schist As the poiijt on the north side of the harbour was the most conve- nient for observation, we erected a cairn here also, for determining angles and laying down positions; though it yasnoHikely to^irove of much use hereafter in verifying the accuracy of the discoverers. Just before dark, toe channel between toe shore and a small island was cleared of ice by toe rapidity of toe ebb: but too late to allow up to attempt our way torough it The temperature of toe air waa from 35" to 36°, and that of toe sea from 31° to 32° ^1 this day; and toe tide rose two feet less toan it had done in toe night preceding JNo animaDi, nor any traces gf Eaquhnaux were seen. 19 - . ;,. • ^ • ■. ■ ^ Vi ;*v - 8 <» €# n;?' (1 1* "y ^^^■'■'iM'MMiiiiiPli mmm ' '-■ :) 90 SECON^ VOriO£ OF DI8C0VSBT () CHAPTEll XI. A *3 heavy Q(tle: Succession oftempesttums ff^eather, with Snow- Partial clearing of the Ice, arid extrication from it— ^Discover the. Island of */indrew Boss, Cape Margaret, Best, Harbour ^ and Mdrtin Islands— ji\^ew Bay — End of September — Gene- ral Bemarks on the past progress qfthe Ship, and the mode of navigating af^^ Ice. ^ „..„„_ Sept. 1 5th. *rHE sky had woS-n a^ery unsettled aspect on tile pre- ceding evening; and the wind, ribing, increased to lai stoirm during the night Having also veered round to tiie northward, it brought around us a great quantity of heavy ice pso that, at daylight, we found ourselves completely locked ki, to our n<^«mall vexation, which was much augmented by seeing clear vvate/within a quarter of a mile. Every exertion was mad§ tb warp out, or to extricate ourselves in some manner: but a whole forenoon of hard labour gained us scarcely more than fou;; fimes th6 length of our ship. At length the ice accumulated to such a degree, that we were obliged to abandon the attempt ■< ^ In the mean time the storm increased, with squaljs of snow, so as to render our situation both, critical and uncomfortable; since we could nbt regain the harbour which we had so prematurely left Thus exposed to the storm, the pressure of the ice was also to be feared, as the icebergs were accumulating on the shores of the capO) which they were too deep to pass. At length the one to which we wgre moored went aflpat, giving us much trouble: while the largest one near us split into six pieces, with a noise like thundier; falling over and throwing up the wiater all around. One of these fragments five our ship a violent ^hock; and another, rising up beneath the nisenstern, lifted her out of the water oi^the ice, and then launched > her off again. Fortunately, no damage was sustained. -> The night tide was further diminished, and we continued, after this li»t adventure, to be not far from the point of the cape behind which was the dear water: while we were obliged to wait with pa- tience for some favourable change of the wind. The thermometer was at 34**, land the snow was so heavy j« to cover the mountains. A party was sent to the cairn, to examine into the state of the ice, *;- .* 5. *!3J J 1 ' ■>-^' mth Snow — it— ^Discover est, Harbmrt mber — Gene- Ithe mode of St on die pre- storm during rd, it brought daylight, we tall vexation, hin a quarter ' to extricate hard labour ur ship. At ivere obliged f snow, 80 as le; since we naturely left, is also to be of the cape) to which we e the largest ndier; falling se fragments beneath the len launched. tinued, after cape behind 'ait with pa- hermometer mountains. ! of thp ice. m TO ISlOS! ^CTIC REGIONS. • ' ^ '' 91 and, having returned, they reported it to be quite closed to the southward, with exception of a naitow lane of water along the land, which now appeared to trend more to the southward. Shortly, the temperature fell, to 28°, with clearer weather andjAhe barometer risinjg. The latitude of this cape was found to be 76° 22', and the longitude 92** 15', which, with the correction, is probably 91®. IQth. The wind was somewhat more moderate this diay, and the weather milder; but the ice was quite close every where, excepting for a small space on the sotith side of the cape. We went on shore to survey the channel through which we had intended to pass; when we saw that there were two reefs of rocks in the middle of it It was a lesson to our impatience; as it was one among many incidents occurring in this voyage, calculated to teach us that apparent mis- fortunes are often benefits. Had we been but ten minutes Moner, w^N^uldJhave made the attempt; and, without a miracle^ thi^son- sequences must have been fatal. Of this, we could entertain no doubt, when we saw that their depth would then have been six feet, enough to conceal them from us, while, on taking the giiound, we should have been overwhelmed by the descending masses of ice. Thus was our disappointment converted into a source of enjoyment, and of self-gratulation: with the same knowledge on the day before, w6 should have thought our icy prison a paradise. A little before noon, the wind, shifted suddenly to the south-east; and blew a gale; while we had in the mean time mooi«d to the largest floe in the passage, that we might be ready in case of any fa- vourable chance. In consequence of this retversal of the wind, the ice bigan t» move in the opposite direction ,to what we had ex- pected: so that we were glad to regain our position in the bay, though this was not effected without several hours of warping. Going on shore in the evening, we had the satisfaction of seeing that the ice was fast leaving the land, and that it would probably al- low us to try again in the morning, with the probability of makinic ten or fifteen miles. We here found that the fine harbour to the floufli of the cape had an entrance from a bay to the southward, and also Mother from one'to the northward, rendering the cape itself an island. The channel was narrow and crooked, and singularly inter- sected by the projections of hilly points on both sides, with inlets branching m every direction. The harbour was clear of ice, and con- tained three inlets. We here saw three hares. The observations at noon confirmed yesterday's latitude. The thermometer in the twenty-four hours, varied from 30° to 340 the water being at 29°; and there was new ice in the pools among the rocks on shore. Various bearings were taken; and we thought that the land trended less to the east than we had formerly supposed; rendering it a nutter of hope, rather than of aught elsejhat we had now arrived at die soutii-eastern e^ti^mity of tiiis land. At ten at night the wind suddenly changed to the north-west, and 'M ! 1 0f' >t 98 4 SBCOND TOTAOB 07 DISCOVERT ;"*' - -"'. blew with increased yiolence; when,«nce more, the ice which had » not yet cleared the bajr, closed in upon our protecting icebergs, forc- ing us to carry out additional ropes, both to them and the shore. The Krusenstern wai transported to a place of safety in the inner- most harbour; and, during the night, it blew extremely hard, with squalls of snow; thej thermometer falling to 21" in the air, and 23° in the water. We /had therefore, once more, great i«ason to be thankful that we had not been able to g6t out of this haven, where the heavy masses of ice around us afforded very tolerable security, «ince they were akround on all sides, and exerted no pressure against us. / nth. The gale continued with undiminished fury from the north- - ywd quarter, accompanied by heavy squalls of snow; and the sea froze as it washed over our decks and th^ adjoining icebergs. The outer edge of the ice to windward was but a mile from us; and, on this as well as the islands, the sea broke. in a tremendous manner, producing a considerable swell, even where we lay, though sheltered by a pomMf land and this extensive tract of ice. The thermometer in the air fell to 21°, and the water to about 28«>; and though the tide rose high, the icebergs did not float In the evening the ice broke up so much as to bring the open water a quarter of a mile nearer to us; and, in* noi long time, the wind became more mode- rate; while some masses of ice Werts seen floating through the •chan- nel of our intended passage, which displayed a good deal of clear 18if^. The moderating of the wind on the preceding evening was but a delusive promise. In the night, the gale increased once moret and to a degree of violence exceeding all that we had yet felt, ac- companied, as before, by snow. As some of the icebergs began to move, three large masses came across our bows, threatening to break the two cables which we had made fast to the rocks, and'obliirinK us to carry out a third. The ice on the outside of us was soon trokeh up by the swell, and at daybreak the waves reached within a qiafter ofa Mile of the ship: while the motion of the solid masses around produced such an agitation in her as to compel us to carrv out ateadying ropes and fenders. ' ,^ cohsequence oftte tide now rising to an unusual height, many ieibergs drove near lb the shore; but as that fell, things became compantively quiet: though the rapid destruction of the ice; under all the present violence, gave us great alarm lest we should lose the proteetion which had hitherto sheltei^ us so well. At ten in the morning, thinton, we went on shore, in hopes of obtaining a bet- tei* view of «he circumstances in which we were now ehcaged; the wind having once more moderated. We thus discoveredthat there was nothing to obstruct our passage as soon a# we should be releas(>d from our present durance, and that although there was much ioe in the harbour, it was not such as to prevent our entrance. n & I, •^^ ice which had icebergs, forc- nd the shore. in the inner- ely hard, with le air, and 2S<^ reason to be haven, where rable security, 1 no pressure om the north- ; and (j^e sea iebergs. The n us; and, on idous manner, ugh sheltered thermometer i though the eninr&e ice ber of a mile more mode- ighthe'ehan- deal of clear ♦ ; evening was d once morel i yet felt, ac- srgs began to niiig to break d obliging us sbon^rokeh bin a qiiat^r uuMes around to carry out height, many iin|^ became lie ice; under iuld lose tlie t ten in the aining a bet- inpfl^; the ed that there i be releas(>d much ice in ij*k> ^J^f JTP THI ABOTIC BKOIONSi 93 Wa.i^l^SiMtm&rmed our former observations for the latitude: and the barometer rose; as also did the thermometer, from 21** to 28^. The moulding of ice collected round the sides of the ship drifted off in consequence, during the' course of the day, as did th'e icicles which had been formed on the icebergs. It still, however, blew hard: the sea continued to draw nearer to us^.and the agitation was scarcely less; so that the motion of the ship was extremely troublesome. Our situation thus became so hazardous that we were about to seek a new position, close to the rocks; when suddenly^ we saw a fleet of heavy ice islands bearing down on us, which, by five o'clock, took their stations at the outer edge of the now narrow field, and, in a very short timj^ all was quiet Such is the ice, and such the compensation it offers. for the too frequent assaults which it makes, and the obstructions which it Hsreates. It is far from being an unmixed evil; and, estimating all our adventures with and among it, I might not be wrong in saying, • that it had much oftener been our friend than our enemy. Wq could not, indeed, corilmand the icebergs to tow us along, to arrange themselves about us so as to give us smooth water in the midst of a ra^ng sea, nor, when we were in want of a harbour, to come to our/^ assistance and surround us with piers of crystal, executing, in a few minutes, works as effectoal as the breakwaters of Plymouth or Cher- bourg. But they were commanded by Him who commands all §, and they obeyed. 19M. The gale continued, thouglj^with somewhat less violence; nor, even towards night, was there any announcement of ^a change. We were safe within the large pack which had accumulated, and could now see additional masses of blue ice attached to its outer edge; the tea breaking high over them, in a tremendous manner. I therefore went on shore, and having a good place for such a record, caused the ship's name and tfie date to be painted on the pyramidal rock ^rmerly described: lUbertaining the latitode at 70* 23Vand the Ion- ^ ptode at 91**. No immediate hope of a removal was held out by ^ Uie state of the ice as we now saw it from the luid; but there was very little snow on the ground, after all that appeared to have fallen, and the temperature was from 25" to 27°. How much of the disap- pearance of this snow, on this, as on many subsequent occasions, arose from the mere sweeping force of the wind, we could not de- termine; but we had often, in this region, abundant proof of the „ great evaporation which it undergoes, even at very low tempera- " tores; confirming a fact respecting the production of vapour, which has long been known to meteorology. In no other way indeed could we account for the small thickness of snow which generally remuned to be convert^ into water, by the common process of thawing, at the approach of spring; since its hard frozen surface "^ very widely prevented the gales from dispersing it in the form of drift, while we were quite sure that a much larger quantity had ac- t '.X' I • -Tt- — -;-*- ^ .•• I. '^. « j& -^1 m' .1* i' '■1 H H ■■■:■ ■ ; / «ECOND vdrAOE OF DISCOVERT cumulated during the winter than that which remained when the ' thaw conamenced. On the utility of this arrangement in diminisHi ing the great flow of water which would otherwise take place aHfliat period, I need make no remarks. . , . aO/A. It was comparatively moderate duri|ig the night, with the «ame wind, but no snow. At daylight a large pack of ice was Been approachma th^ bay,' when it divided: one portion passing to the eastward of us, while the rest cldsed in, so as, in a few hours, to. block us up mo^ completely than we had ever yet been. After/ . Jvine service,4he crew were allowed such relaxation on shore as they could contrive in such a place: and the view hence still showed some clear water^to tiie soiithward, attainable, if we could but ob- tain a wojterly wind. The thermometer was at 27», but there was no new ice in the harbour, although the land pools were frozen over. In the evening the awell subsidy eveiy where, and at midnight it was cdm and freezing hard; but tiie ice did not open, as w^ Eoped It might do on the ebo. . *^ 21*/. This ice still appeared stationary, there being a light air irom^e north; and, on examination, we found tiiatthe huge Masses around us were frozen ^geUier, giving us the prospect of Qng con- demned to remain here for Uie rest of tiie winter. But tiie breeze becoming westerly at nin^ p'clock, all hands were set to work, and continued occupied tiie whole day in separating tiie masses which had been cemented by tiie frost, since tiiis afforded us tiie onlv t!S!^ ?K «£*»«« cj^- This being done, we placed tiie ship^s head in tiie best position for getting out; and, affct tiiis, she was soon surrounded by new ice, tiie tiiermometer being at 25". 22d. A stivng breeze arose during tiie night; and, at dayliicht we found tiia^ with the exception of !wo piecis, it had' carri^^S aU the ice that we had fiut, while tiie water was clear outside. We •gain, tfierefore, set all hands to work in breaking tiie ice tiiat re- mained, soon detaching many large pieces, which tiie tide carried" !rf?** *K I ^°™» *»owever, became more heavy as we proceeded; M tiiat the last cuts, tiirough a thick floe, were not completed till Uie evening. At tiiis time a large mass to tiie eastward of us broke , away, promising to sail pff and assist in clearing us, when, unfor-- tunately. It toot tiie ground and remained fixed; and, still more to clSi J"** opposite to tiie channel which we were attemp^ng .rHat^ "^^ '^*'! °¥«^ *° "?^® * °«^ *««"»P* at anoAer point; appealing again to that patience, and exerting once more tiiat deter- mination not to be foiled, which, for ey&r wanted under every sitaa- «r!i S *iSc?u"®^®'' more needed tifi by him who must work his way throufli the never ending, ever ^newed, obstitictions of an icy «e^ JJy Uie time it was dark, we had completely succeeded, and h^ once more tiie satisfaction of finding ourselves in clear water; when we hove out beyond tiie icebergs, and made fast for tiie night ss-- TO TBK ABCTIC BSOIOMS. 95 lined when the ent in dimiiush^ a^e place Ahiai night, with the of ice wasfieen passing to the a few hours, to. Jt been. After/ on on shore as ace still showed e could but ob- ' ', but tiiere was ere frozen over, at midnight it I, as w^ hoped ing a light air lie huge masses !t of being con- But the breeze t to work, and masses which d us the. only ced the ship's this, she was at 25"*. I, at daylight, i carried away outside. We le ice that re- le tide carried" ve proceed; completed till, rd of us broke , when, unfor-^*' id, still more ire attempting to that floe which we h'ad cut into the resemblance of a pier. Soon after this it began to blow hard frOm the southward, and the ice -which had passed by was seen returning; producing, once more, a new enigma \o be solved* as it threatened us again with a repetition of what we liad been so often and so long undergoing. It became necessary therefore to go on snoi%, that we might the better, under^ stand how matters were likely to be with us noW; since Our posi- tion in the ship was not su£Bcientiy commanding to allow of an ade- quate view. We thus found that the circumstances were even worse than yire had. anticipated; since we could nOt even get i;ound to the good harbour which we had occupied -l^fore, until the weather should moderate. There was also seen some new ice, the thermo- -"i meter being at 22*', and thence to 26". By the time, hpwever, that ; .we had returned to the ship, the wind fortunately rose from the very quarter that we desired, Jbeing that which was best adapted for carrying away the ice; while, blowing with su£Scient force to re- move it, we were enabled to go to our repose under some hopes foi* thte following day. " ^ 23d. These hopes were quashed by the appearance of the morn- ing. It had snowed 'hand since midnight, and every thing, land, rocks, ice, our deck, -was deeply covered; while our intended pas- sage outwards was blocked up by large pieces of floes and bergs; two more liaving detached themselves from the land to aid in Se obstruction. The wind, indeed; had it been more moderate, would have been sufficientiy favourable: and thence were we induced to ren^ our labours, in Spite of the storm and every other discouraging ;«ircuitistance. So successful also' were they, that the passage was tleared by eight o'clock; at which time the gale began to abate, and «.. he fall of snow to diminish, so as to hold out some better prospects ^an the earl^ morning had promised. We therefore undertook another survey from. the shore, when we •und that' die north entrance of the harbour was still blocked up, »ut that there was much clear water to the southward.. This induced us to go ofl" in the whale boat, that we might survey the very intricate channel before us^, leaving it to those on board to warp the ship out and get her under ^il in the mean time. Thus we investi^ted the pilotage; and, returning at ten o'clock, we succeeded m carrying our vessel through, without any accident, in spite of a' rapid tide and the numerous sunken rocks in the passage. The whole of this expedition, successful, if of little extent, waj^ terminated in an hour. It was our intention tp have entered the harbour; but, on standing ' ■ towards its entrance. We thought it probable that we might reach a few miles further, the current being still in our favour, though the wind was agvnst us. We continued, therefore, to work along shore, ^ and having passed tiie harboUr at noon, reached tiie furthest point ■ that we had seen from our last sUtion. Hence, the land tranded im- ? ) - <-f I s \ \ I 1 .■ X _J! L_itl f:. . ' , ,■-., « ■ 96 SECOND V07AOJB OV DISCbVBRT * nearly due south, being more bdd and rocky, and also more elevated than what wfi had hitherto seen: and here also we dis- covered an inlet some *«niles to the south,' with high land on each side of it, which, on a nearer approach, proved to .be full oiF ice. Near it there was some low land, which was conjectured to be an island^ and, more towards the south-east, a decided one, which v9a» the most distant land we had yet seen. ^ ^ . a At four o'clock, being opposite the bay, we were obliged to force through two streams of ice, and, by seven, closed in with the island: when, havieg a favourable wind and Current, we attempted to wprk up to the mainland. The coming on'of night prevented this; and we were comjtelled to run round a point on the island, where we secured ourselves to some heavy ice, about fifty yards froii4hej|iore, and in 'four fathoms water.. It was far, indeed, from bfe^gasaJFe place, and, in an easterly wind, would have Been a hazardous one: but, after much examination, we could find nothing, better, and were obliged to be content The snow continued the whole day, but was not such.a'8 to prevent us from seeing to distances .of two or three miles: the temperature of the air rose from 26° to 32^, but the barometer fell half an incjh. By our reckoning, we had made abofit fourteen "miles: an unexpected progress, which put us*^ into high • spirits, and made us anxious for the return of another day. 24th. Though the weather, had been moderate during the night, the flood tide set in with great rapidity, and thie iceberg to which we were fast received so many severe blows from Ithe floating masses, that we began to suspect it would itself be carried off" at high water. An alarm to this eflect was indped given: butjttt examinktion, we . found that it was the vessel which had sheeAd; on which she was moored to the rocks. The wihd,'Which had been gradually changing during the night, became sopth-east at daylTdit; imd v»^e could tiien see from the island, that the icp was fast closing on us: so as to give us'timely warning to quit a place where' it was impossible to remain long with safety. We therefore jnade^sail; add, passing to the east- ward of the island, found a channel througlCwhich the tide was running with ailnoderate velocity. We then sent the boats to te- amme into^this apparent harbo^and to select a place wl^i^We could maW fault: but it was soon discovered that there was only a reef of rocks, so that we were obliged to' moor to a large iceberg, jjrithin a few yards of the shore, and not far from a shallow entrant opening to the south-east As soon as the men had breakfasted, we prepared to remove again,' when the boat should have found a better position. Sud- denly, however, the ice turned round; and, before we could pre- vent it, the ship's bow was carried on the rocks with such violence, thaj It WM raised eighteen inches. But as, a| this timd, the ice grounded again, no further Issault was inade oiMier: and by means of bawsen, she was soon jjot off, without haying^BuataiMd my \ TO THX ABCTIC ■■eiOWS. 99 damage. The breeze then liesheiuilg, the sails were set, enabliiiK us to stahd out^ththe intention of lying to while we waited the , repdrt of the boat '■.'■■" *^'-^<'-^-':::.:--'-:h'-9ry"' -- '.>■:■. ,, ..• But our success was very small; since after ninning half a mile, wi^ gfeat difficulty, throufdi rocks and icebergs, the situation whidi we attained, and did vht gain without much toil and hazard, was found to be little better «lhan that which we had left. It had bu^ ten feet water; and we saw that we should not be ible to haul out of the stream before the shiphad arrive^ within her own braadth p[ some rocks that row above the water; ^w^ her Aem lay dose to others that were not six feet heneath the surface. We therefore proceeded in the whale boat to seek for a better place, for which the now inereasing^ wmd n^ade us more wwdous; and thus succeeded in findiM an excellent deep-water channel between the mainliuid and tiw first range of islands. The entrance^ however, seemed eaitrtme- ly hazardous; being scarcely wider than the ship herself, with a tongue of ice, haying only Mvenleet water on it, extendinc aoitMM. from suia to side., ^w!^ .There was, however^ neither a choice to make, nor time to ie i|lared m resolvmg. We therefore dMpped the ship down bv hawsers, grazmg the rocka with our keeL How to ^ory hfer ow ^e touBte was another problem, seeing that her dnaiht exceeded tto depth; but, ?«^hileconsiderin« this, & tide swept iSr on it, and flhe stuck &8t; ithaving proved, contrary to our rackoniniE, that it WW now ebb. The hawsers were then ctaried out aninrand we contrived to h^ve through; yet not withoutsawing off wmeproiect- "*^'?.^-°'* *^ *^° opposite icebergs, so narrow was the paasum. ; We did not, however, extricate ourselvee from this penlousj^. ^ toon. Without passmg. two other icebergs, one higher than our ihastr ^^^f?** ~t.?j ***** the vessel had only half her breadth to spare. But, this achi^ement over; weiiad no .farther difficulty in saUinc two mites through the chaniiel, when We reached a place of .aecurity, and made ftat to two large icebens^ out of the stream, and near the entrance of a good harbour. In this position there was a lann island on Mch side, and, before us, the inainhnd. f ^ ThM maidand was^ what we had seen the day befoi^ and di». P"Ir * ?**5**^»e of mountains close to the coast, extending in a north a^soufc dimstionrw^e it seemed rtojonTa more favourable manner than formerly, and no land was visible beyond ^SHJ^'^T^^ to examine and sound: the h^-bour^ wSjtogrther^iA the severM entranqea to it: but these latter were 1^ Wo^edvun, mth exc(q,^ of the one tb ^^^^ convenient; and we therefore remained satisfied wSh the result «f our day's w*^, and not thanklew for our escapesXo3i 2 haaidous a nayigaUon. There w«, a little snow,Md n6 bSiS was ««r tl»e^4il4:WMer bo^^ «n «rf l»*.wW, i.?5»e e^ -11 -1/ , f * ,. -i»»«r.a*'»' > \*' 98 SBOOirO VOTAOB OV DIfCOVXKT ing coining from the north-'Oast We were here obliged to fill our casks with ice, as there was no fresh water to be procured. The land near us consisted, as usual, of granite. 25/A* The wind canie to the norSiward during the nig^t, causing such a rise of the tide^that all the icebergs were set in motion. In consequence, they were shbrtly all carried off, except one which was kept in its place by our ropes. In thd morning it was clear, and we saw from the mast-head a good deal of open water to the southward, forming the receptacle of the ice vrhichyraa sailing out of this nar- row chumel. Thus we at first thoughfUiat it would clear itself, so that we might perhaps proceed by noon: but the unlucky arrival of a largd pack of ice at the northern entrance, not only filled it up once more, but produced a general stoppage, which compelled us to lemoye the ship fiirther wimin the harbour. In the afiifemoon we landed and took formal possession of the island to which we were now moored, giving it the name of Andrew Ross, being that of m;^ son^ From the caum .which we buUt, we" obtained a very extensive view, and saw land bearing south of us at a distance of eighteen or twenty miles; yet 'not so as to ascertain whether it con^sisted 6f islands,^ or was a continuation of the land near us, and the American continent Much clear water' was abo seen in the same direction; giving some prospect of a further pro- gress, in case the wind shouKI come to the northward, and enable us to clear the channel by which we were imprisoned. A sketdi being taken, the islands were named. The last night's gale had so blown away the snow, lodging it in the ravines and hoUoMrs, that the land seemed comparatively dear, and the island on which we stood was so bare as to show its clean 'granite, without a mark of vegetatiiMi. A alight foggines9 in the direction of the newly-oeeff islands continued to render the view of them indistinct; and, in the evening, the weather was quite mode- rate, with a temperature of 24°, though witiiout the formation of any jiew ice. The harbour having ^ieen at length quite survejKed, was found* to have fifteen feet at low water, with an even mud^ bottom, to be fi«e of currents, except in the main channel, and se- cure front every wind. Where the current did run, it was, indeed, very powerful; canning the ice through it with fearful velocity and tremendous collision. Except a glaucous gull, we hcare saw no animal. . 26th. Though calm and clear after midnight, and the thei:mom«ter not more than S7°, no qew ice was formed in the still water, and the tide carried away the greater part of that which had occupied the channel^ But, at nine it began to come in at the northeriy opening; which, with a northeasterly breeze and a heavy fall of snow, put an end to all prospect of i^vancing for this day. Soon after dark,^the temperature fell to 35^, and ue snow continued to iall; but, under the influence of the tides, Vae ice began to clear if i^i^^-^'^t^-% TO THX AHCTIC M6I0NS. 99 away in b^ cUreetioM. An iidereaiJC^ of wind forced us to carry out additilc^Haliiropes, and the Krusehstem was also moored in a place ofsecuritil ^ S7/A^ tfnrinii the night it blew a very hard gale from the north- wurd; Md thevtide rising high in conseduence, all the icehergs wefe set in motionr Our stroncMt hawser wipped o^ the rock' to which it was ^utened, and obliged us to let go in anchor, as it was dark: but'wh^ daji'lidit came, we transferred t^e former to another rock, and gptjthe" anchor up again. It was th^ heen that the channel was clpsed with ice at Irath ends; and thu^jt continued the whole day, thou^ havins soine clear water in th^: middle, at its widest part A good deu of heavy ice came to the entrance of this little harbanr, but did not reach our owi^ clear wat^^on which, no new ice was formed, in consequence, probably, of the gale. ^ After muster and prayers, part of the crew waa^ien^ oq shore for exercise, and the remainder jn the evening. Beioij^ with this last parfy, we saw that in spite of some open sea, tiiere ^pbs no chance of our being released from our present situation wilSibicill^ a change of wind. We had time to walk over thi^ islahd, which i^fhe largest of the group, but found no vesetation, nor any animal j^^oug^, on the following morning» we killed a seal and a glaucous giill. The temperature of the air and water, equally, was 29*, and it eame on to blow hard fr|»m the north-west soon after we got oa boArd. 98th. Thou^ the wind veered to the west durinx the niriit, it did not release us as we had hoped. The ice, indeed had drmed a considerable Way o£f the coast, but our channel -was atill locked up. Besides this, there was much heai^ ice driving up and down, with jp«at velocity, before the tide,*which, even could we have got out. It would not have been prudent to encounter. Some of theqe masses, indeed, entered the channel, sweeping it clear from mde to side for a time, as some of them blocked up the .entrance of our harbour. A &rvey by the boat, however, showed at last, tij^at we might get out at the southern entrance, if we could releascf ourselves from the* prisoJn that now enclosed us. Thouji^ it was moderate all day, the baromiMer fell an inch, prog- nosticating what soon occurred. Accordingly, we were visited by a very heavy gale, in the evening, from the qorth-north-West, witii a snow storm, which obliged us t6 carry a cable to the rocks, and another to the next iceberg, for ihe sake of keeping it between us and the shore, in case any shift of wind should drive us on the rocks from which we were not many yards oC The thermometer was at one time SS", and rose to «8«». We examined tiie island to the •outh of us to-day, but found nothing on it to attract our attention. S9M. The snow storm continued without intermission all night- but, in the morning, it had so &r cleared away the ice as to render the passage navigable. The state of the weatiier would not, how- ever, permit ua to get under way, since no canvass could ha»e stood - »l )l 1^- fk,Z" ^•'' n- l<» SECOND VOTAOE OF PISCOTSR-T rr-'v agaiMt the gale. Towards noon, and in the evening, the wind wai ■k "? J ■» """^ ***® *"°w ceased to fall; when such was the effect on the land, as to blow away the pnow by which it had been previously covered. The thermometer was at 23<» in the middle of the storm, and did not sink below 81": while, in the evening, the barometer be- **5 *?i '"** ^^ ^^ time the entrance of the harbour was cleared, ■nd all the «iew ice and frozen snow were dispersed. After the tide had naen, it continued the whole day at nearly the same elevation, markinji tlwt effect of the winds which we had moi« than once be- fore nbticed. The latitude was observed at TO" 12', and the longi- tude, uncorrected, at 92'* 21'. No one could leave the ship durinjt the whole of this day. *^ » SO/A. The storm abated gradually during the night; and at five, bemg daylight, it seemed sufficiently moderate to warrant an attempt> > to get out: the channel to the southward being nearly clear of ice. Accordingly, the cables and hawsers wefig^^ off; and at inx we got under way, with the Krusenstern in tow. Though the tide in the channel was setting north, or against us, the northerly ln«eze with us was sufficient to make us run through it at the rate ofl five miles an hour; estimating thejAirrbnt at tiie same time, at half that quan- tity. At seytenw&ifmsaed the southern eniranc&oftiie harbour and the south'^ opening of the channel; finding thfe tide stronger, as we advanx^ed, and most rapid in the narrowest part, as mifdit have beenexp^bt^ V, jv f It was now'liQqessary to know more of what was likely to follow, smce we had arrivi^ at the boundary of our present knowledge; and we were, therefore,^ gresyt anxiety to discover the treading of the iMd; watching the ^sternmost cape, and every successive point that opened as we advanced. We found that the^distant land which we had seen between th^jround island and the main, was a cluster of Vge island^, and that tiie>oast was trending to the westward. At eight we had rounded thd^cape, successively opening out sevc^i points, of which the fifth mdrked the place of a large inlet or bay, which, on our approach, we fdund to be full of ice. A bay beyond the second point.seemed also to offer a good harbour: while we fui^- ther'noticed a remarkable inlet, with what appeared to be two islands at its entrance. The^e Kveral places were naihed. Our distance gradually increased, in running down the coast, fr&i a hundred yards to two miles; -and, at noon, the great body of ice ■Was seen extending frqm the shore about two miles north of the ex- treme i^oint of the mainland, to ^islands sout)iwaid: thus com- , pletely obstructing all further pa^^ge, since it cohsitted of very ^ heavy roaases most desdy packed. ;^e had run seventeen miles; five to the south and twelve to the sob^-west: and we now, there- fore, tacked and beat up to'tiie land in seu^h of a harbour, detach- ing a boat as we approached, to sound and seek for a safe position: 4^ .?fC -"■"Vw- «BB?S5!3ps TO THJI^KCTIC RBOIOHS. 101 while, in the mean time, vfe made fast to a neigkbouring iceberg but in a situation that eould not belrusted, from the small depth of wateir The boat discovered, to the nbrth-eastward of our place, a spacious bay, but open on three points of the compass; and, to the south-west, an island which offered a place of security, having a rock above wfh terto thesouth, with a shallow ridge near the northern entrance. Thif position we therefore took; making £ut to two icebergs, uid\ under protection of the islet, so as to be not more than a quarter of a mile distant from the l]^rne'r of hieavy ice, which we could now bet- ter see to consist of hundreds of icebergs wedged together into a solid mass. We had passed, in our course hither, some large pieces which were sailing to join this threatening barrier, an<) had a£o been obliged to force our way through some pancake ice, as it is termed, so dense as to give us considerable trouble. ' __J> .IlZ^;-—— ■-—-—- ^ The l^amometer wasirom dS^ to S5® in~tKe di^^^t in the even* iilg it became calm, when the temperature suddenly feH to 18°. At sunset, the weather was very clear, and high land was seen beyond the point, at the distwce i>f ten or eleven leagues, bearing south- ' west, and extending to the eastward of south ; but, whether connected with the land near us^ or not, we could not discover. The large is- luids bore fjroj^iftot-by-aouthto 8outh-south-east,,at about niite miles distance, and )^|^ surrounded by heavy ice, separated from them, in one plMe, by a small lin6 of water. Theaaptet of flie land had now.considerably changed. It was far lower than those parts of the coast which ^e had already examined, ^nd Um general siirface was much more even. There was some ve- getation on the little island, and we observed recent tracks of the hwe and the ermmeA. Here also were two circles of stones, being '^ the remain^ ef^Ue summer habitations of the Esquimaux, but of a much more recent date than those we had seen before. Though there was snow, the ereater part had been blown in^ the ravines and lee . places, which allowed us to see that the rock^ consisted of red gra- nite. One track of a bear was afterwards found near the place where we were mooitd, and many seals lalso made their appearance. As Jo observations were taken, we were obliged to estimate the latitude, ^w' "^^'»°»°& •* "^^"i *n<* the longitude (uncorrected) "at 92*» *)'. " With the termination of September, of which we had now reached thfe last day, I considered that aU hope of making any further pro-' * gWMs this season was at an end. And thus I entered that opinion in my journal; adding to it those remarks which I now transcribe with- out alteration, because they better show the impressions and opinions eonsequent on our proceedings and situation, than aught that I misht aM^iff* ■' • ^^'^ period, or should write now. -#•* VH conviction is, that in every voyage of this nature, the Miety of the ship ought to be that prime consideration to which every tmng else should yield; since, upon its preservation, the chance of ■uccess depends m a greater degree than in any other navigation; vT.. -""■^"-J"—-**! 1»5;">««I»*5,^ ■ 1| *»»--«M(f. Wn., Ji.**.'**^,* -*! 7 •.'^ 109 BKrogress further before the winter. As far a» our operations for the ollowing season Jire concerned, we are probably in as good a position fpr deciding, here, as we could haye been, thouf^ more advanced: being also, while three hundred miles further than any preceding expedition, not more than two hundred and eighty miles from the coast laid down by Captain Franklin. , « On the mode of ncvigating in these seas, I may here also de- dwe my now acquired-conviction, that where there is no harbbur, and the ice is settog along tiie shore, there ought tob^ no hesitation in teking a position in the pack, especially when a ship is near tiie land. It is, in reality, tiie most secure proceeding; and altiiough toe consequence tbay often be a retawgrade movement, that is not to be put into competition with the safe^ of the ship; while we never experienced any diilculty in extiicating ourselves sooner or later. I am earnMt in enforeing this doctrine on navigators, because the re- verse opmion is rooted; as the consequence of the opposite practice IS, to keep a vessel in a constant sUte of actual, as weU as appre- hemted danger, or anxiety. And tiiis is, in fact, tiie source of all the dai^irs and narrow eseapat of which we read; while a littie care and patience would gsneraUy avoid that fiwquent casualty, the being beset in tiie ice. A little reflection should indeed show, tiiat It ifi not witiiin the )>ower of a ship to force herself tiirough such ob- fltroctions: and tiience do I recur to the conclusion, that ^ is impru- dent, as well as idle, to be perpetually pushing on t6 reach every iract of open water, unless it can be done witiiout nA^ and unless •v >. '.*-'. \ ■ 'W^ / f ..* ';"C- ,,.- 1 / ■» ■ .^31:^ . L ■ --'J '■ ' / ^M kMw<*t»t,^ .■*-^*»K..,'. •''>•» V,V 'tI'' TO TU JUICTIC XBOIONS. 103 alao there be a prospect of retaining the ground that has been nined. or of maJting a determinate progress. , ^ " It is indeed true, as it may be answered to these remarks, that it 18 the business of a ship to seek for a harbour, especially after a lone Ojn, and on an unknown coast Bdt it is generally easy to send pits on this duty, with little or n^ comparative hazard, when there are prospects of refuge on shore: «rhile, instead of thus endangerinK the ship, It is, as I have alread/ recommended, the safest, and in- deed the only prudent practice/ to take to the ice. This is, if I mis- take not, the refuge furnished by Providence; and he who negleets It, sUlI trusting to Providence to escape the dangers which he unne^ cessanly incurs, ihust not complain m case of faUuie; since he has not exerted his utnnwt canrand pni^ce to render himself entitled to that protection. I^t that he ke^t in'aifnd by him at least who inay hereafter attempt a ' north-west n4uMage:' and let him never lote sight of the two words, caution, aiid patience." ^: jft m ■f,'-' ''i^ "ittr^^ -• jfi «& n..,-Ai*l/-..- »-f; '' ' i ■4 ^ ■ _ ^ • •■ ^> 4t— ? ^J m t0: If it i\ fi [i 104 9KC0irD VOTAOB OF DiaCOVXBT A ..i CHAPTER XII. •^ N.-'f ■■: % Remarks on the present Condition ttf the Ship, and Prmar^ti ^ ^ u with all this, we had not less reason to be thankful for the pij gf^ we had made, than really to wonder at our success thus fii Uiese were Jiot things to make us riiut our eves to what it seeme^j now most needful to do. In future, our ship was to be a sailing 7 -«— •«»i-i'*i*«Wii *» V \ Iwejttetrufy ne Btftetied on HiqtjtheSn-. ' ". '■'■■■*■• ; • ring month, t >ur ship, espe- weeks has si- ght more than sntage wehad eater than we But, dius ren- elest: it was a , tw6-thirds of een^ from the nd in addition [ready record- four persons, ramping, very As the en- ding power in nd sluling had that the sails ^ in fact, she disadvant y of ton h of her ibrance wll en we qui il for the pn cess thus fiik, hat it seemec be a sailini TO THE ABCTIC RBjOIONS. ' . vessel, and nothing more. I therefore detennined to lighten her of the most ponderous and least expensive, part of this machinery, wd to apply, towards Strengthening the ship, whatever might seem available for that pilrpose. With this view^ airrangements were made on the la^t day of September, for taking to pieces the boilers^ that we might land tbem as soon as the ship should be frozen in; an event that could not be distant; while, to this, I had more thaii the concurrence of every oflScer, and, probably, that of every man. It is true that we thus consented to mluce ourselves to a degree of power far inferior to that of any preceding vessel engaged in these services; but, in reality, that evil had already occurred against our wiU^and our voluntary act of self-condemnation was, a£ter all, little more than a Ibrm. ■-—- — '^ — ___„_ Oct 1st. During the last night, the thermometer fell to 17*», Uireatening us with having reached our last posititm for this season; but, towards daylight, the weather became cloudy, and the tempera- ture rose to 21", with a fall of snow, which continued the whole day. We were thus, hovrever, prevented from ascending the high land n^ us, and, thence, from making those observations on the state of the const and the ice, which were indispensable towards any further attempt at proceeding. We could do nothing more therefore than sound and survey our little harbour: and were pleased to find that if we 8j)^ld really he frozen up in this spot, we should -find it a safe place, after making some alterations in it, by clearing away the heavy masses, and sawing into the bay ice, which was now six inches thick. The snow ceased at night A very recent foxtrap was found on the shore: and as the «eals were very shy, while numerous, it was a natural conclusion that the Esquimaux had not lone quitted this place. . ** ^ 2d. Thoueh the morning was cloudy, it was not to unfavourable day for an mland excui|jon. We landed on the north side of the harbour, «& the ice was not sueh^as to enable ns to cross it to the southern one, which was, to us, the important poitot After passine a vaUey containing a frozen lake, I ascended a high hUl, and thence ■ discovered that a creek which had caused us tb make a circuit, was an inlet running about six miles within the land, in a north-west di rection. Here I also saw the head of the great inlet which we had observed on the thirteenth,* surrounded by land appearinir consi- derably higher than that to thesout^West, which consisted of a sue cession of uniform low hills. Beyond this land I could see no water. To the south-east, there wasa perfj^trjewof the islands that we had passwl on the thirtieth of Septembeis together with some land to the ^^'^ u T^'^'!^' "^^t ^as ProbaWy the American conti- nent; though this point could not then be determined, any mora ttian I could ascertam whether it was a continuation of that on which I was now standing. At present, it was more important to know what the sUte of the 14 %: V-; 7 me r-m I '..m^ ■V p. m i \ U» SKOOMD VOTAttS OV OmOOTBBT ice was, and what it was likely be; but what we saw save ut no hopes of any further progress. We were at a stand. We had iodeei ~ long suqieoted that the event which could not be Very distant, wa impending, nor could we, in reason, be surprised that it had arrivec Yet we had been Ikisy and active up to the present point, and our perpetuaTeflfdrts had, as is usual in life, prevented us from thinking" of the future, from seeing that the evil which could not for ever be protracted, was drawing nearer every hour, that it was coming every mimite, duut it was ccmiet thus nouririiine that blind hope, which even in the face of inevitable danger or of certain ruin, even on the bed of death itsdf, is the result of effort and resistance; that hopA which ceases' only with the exertions by which it was supported, when the helpless ship falls asunder on the rock, and the sun fades before the eyes of the dying man, • It was sow that we were compelled to think, for it was now that ^iaen %as nothing more to be performed; as it was now tiao that the long and dmry months, the long-coming year I mij^t almost say, of our inevitable detention among this immoveable ice rose fttU in our view. The prison dew ^as shut upon us for the first tim^; while feeling that, if we were helpless as hopeless captives, tluM^not even Nature could now relieve or aid u^ for many » long and weary month to eome, it was imposnble to repel the intninon of those thoughts which, if they follow disappointment, preaa on us ever more heavi^, under that subsidence of foeling which follows on tim first dicek to that exertion by which hope was supported. Should w6 have dnie better, been nirther advanced, have passed UutHigh these diffioulties, and more, should we have passed aU, and found ourselves where we wished, forming a junction with the dis- coveries to the westward, had the eniane not disappointed us, had we be«a here, as we ought to have been, * month w six wedu sooner? Was it the badness of our vessel, a complication of defects not to hava been foresee^, which had jNrevented us from completing ^eoutiine of America, frcgn ascertaining the ^ north-west pasaa^r' in a single season? This was the thoudit that tormented us; and net unnaturally, when we recollected ul that we had endured, all. our Mays and disappointments. But, like that self>tormenting itader whieh mankind make themselves so often frvitleaaly miserable, thoM thoikf^ts,wei« purposeless, and worse; ao that we hastened to diaeard them as they^irose: aware, on reflection, that we eould not see into the distant and the future, that we could not speculate on the nature of the Und before us, eould not be sure what the iee had been before our arrival, and could, therefore, as little know, whether there waa a pasas|^ westward to be found in this dire^ion, as whether we riiould have bean one foot further advanced, had every tiling we desired eenformed to our wishesi We saw here many tracks of hares, and shot aome which were, even at thia early period, quite white: this needfol change taking ■ . t '■ - . . . ■ * ."^ l\- . .7X TO Vm AMTW ■BtflOlfl. 107 pUiu^ should now be well known to naturalists^ long before thi grotmd has become permanently covered with snoijf , and long befine the weather has become truly cold; proving that it is, at least, not &Hf ^fect of temperature, as it is assuredly a prospective arrange- ment for meeting the cold of winter. The track or a bear was uao found; and, in the interior, we could see, even through the snoW, that the (dains were covered with vegetation; while the protruding rocks consisted of red granite,; accomi)anied by fragments of lime- stone near the shore; indicating a continuity of the same geological structure that wt !aad traced eve^ since entering this strait There were many Enuimaox traps, with a great numba* of those cairns, or stones, resembung men when at a distance, which t^ese pei^e erect fcnr the purpose of frightening the deer within their reach. In this space, amounting to fivi miles, which we had travdved, (Jiere were two litrge lakes. 3d. During our yesterday's excursion the men nearly demolished the iceberg which chiefly obstructed our possible* eipt, so that it was hove out intothe tideway before fife o'elock: but as it conti- nued calm, ww^pnaperature of 80°, there was little chance of pro* ceeding, ^uHAer this impediment was surmounted; since, in this state sflHp> ^^ °^^ ice could not fsul to set us fast This morning fflP^impwature promised even worse, being only 13": but, daring the day, it rose to 21°, the weather being dear and moderate. landing again, we reached the summit of the highest accessible hill at noon: but the sight of the horizon from it was imperfect, and we could decide on nothinJ|^ though what We did see was by no means of a promiling nature. The aipent of a second hiH disclosed nothing bat a vast extent of land from the north-east to the south-West, with no space o£ water but that where we lay, and whidi resembled the bottom of aj^t bay. We again saw the tracks of hares, and that of a whitd bear, together' with those of ermines and foxes; picking up, moreover, tiie horns of a reiodeer. The state of the ic^ was however (he important consideration; while knowing too weU how difficult it is here to judge ^ the na- ture and connexions of the land, I was fidly aware that we could not form any decisive conclusions from what w^ had yet seen. The former appeared nearly in the same state; and we had now even more reason to believe that the great pack was* so firmly cemented for the winter, that it would separate no m(M«, Of the land I was determined to arauire more knowledge, if that should be posnUe, bv travelling as iu- as it diould prove acee8sible> Our ship was not absolutely frozen in; but she was niaeed in the most desirable por- tion that could be found, in ease of that evrat oceurriiig; as we had now so much reason to expect "" — As to the nature of Ae land thus travtevsed, it differed IHtte fir«n wtmt We had already examined; though more uneven and ni^^. The vdleys, as before, included lakes; but those wMck w« saw ao '4 r W9 ^iKQOum ^d^40B pv DiiooTK>r t ^,. wfere but a'fev^ fc;et deep, and seemed to contain no fish. Angles ' MfttB taken frqin a cairn erected on the highest hill, together with the usual bbservations. In the 'mean time, th6 llietk on bou^were emplojgtt in taking thie engine to pieces, for the puif]Mae of la^dmg it; th&l^gs ivere eitercised iji the sledges, and oth^'^N^eparatiM] ' far wintering were made. The tiiermoiiieter, in the ni)g;ht^ sank t 16° with a ful of snoW, w^ile the air had a peculiarly raw and cold 4M. The morning temperature was' 13°, but it rose to 17** at nOon, and the snow ceased: Being Sunday, divibe servibe was per- formjed; ahd the men were sent on shore for exercise, when some ' ptormigans'were seen.' The ice had but little increased^ and there was still much often water to the ^orthieast, With sonie to the south- * wai^, though the heavy pack which lay in our way^remain^ in the same state. There was more snow, on the hills, yet the approach of winter if 98 mufch more gradu^thiaa it had usually been found in^ these climates. ; . ' ^' 5/A. The men weire -employed in unbending some of tiiesno^l sails and^in unreeving the running rigging, while the enigineeniwere bbsied in.continuing the work which they had commenced on ^a- ^rd&y. The temperature rose from 14*^ to 17°, hut fell again to 14"- 'in the evening; and there was open^ waler not very far from the ship. , l*he do^ were again exercised, and a f«|x was seen on the ice, being die first that we ^had met with. ^An aurora "borealis was observed at one o'clock, i^d the barometer rose to 30° 79*. The weather, at ' , the same time, li^oame so thick as to render it hopeless at present to' get any further sightof the land; and as wd were at length quite frozen round, the prospect^of advancing became less and less every ' houJF. ' f ' -eth. A fresh breeze of wind made the Ipet night colder than any which had preceded; and, itx the morning, the temperature was at ' ^.12*'; rising in the course of the day to .14"." We now dicfrefore pro- . ceeded to cut the ice, so as to get the ship into what we considered the position of greatest safety for the winter; a work which occu- piied the whole day. There was still a little open water .to the north- ward: nbt much snow fell, and, in.the evening, Ihe .wind shifted to , the south, blowing fresh. The tedium of 't^is day, the forerqnner of many far worse, was enliveneJd by a successful bear hunt, being the fitst chance of the kind which had occurred to M^ The' animal, having appi^ched the ship, was turned towards the island; and in this way our party, was tabled to c^i it off from the land. Thus imprisoned we turned our Greenland dogs on it; but they proved to be of no use, ftdwing nothing of the instinctive desire Nx> attack this animal, which is do general in their race. It was then chase^ to the water; where, plun^hg into the new-formed ice, it could make little pro- gress, and was, consequently, overtaken by t|;ie akiff and killed. Be- ...V- ■w*' i 1) •V -V 2 ii tl e) ti . m d< at til of sh d( fo W( dc al foi SO; • ^ no *^ thj . to ^•as p^ ani 801 mc - els( ( s ■f!^?m:ii^ -*0^^ "'■ fc' « • - —'- ^r V • ' ^1 « • t V * • 1 •V An^les' lOr with were i of la^dmg [N^eparatiw] l^iit^sank to ivr and cold ? to 17** at tee was per- when some 1^ and there D the south- ' oin^ in the approach of 2n found in^ »f the sno^l ;ineeniwere ced on Sa- igain to 14"' )m the ship, e ice, being 18 observed weather, at- ' t present to' mgth quite less every ' sr than any ture was at - jirefore pro- considered 'hich occu- > the north- [ shifted to , TO THB ABCTIC RBOIOKS.* 109 i ' '/ ing brought dn^board, it proVed to be a female of a i^edium size; Measuring SIX feet eight incKes between the nose and the tail, arid weighing five hundrtsd.poijjhds. ' ),\^ "* •\ ^ih. After a fine mornli^, th£ snow came on at eigh« but'the WMther Was ao much mUder, that the thermometer ro* fsom li^o to 21 . The sawing of thence was finished at noon; and the ship/be- ing hauled in, was placedwith her heiki to the northward, between the Mland and th^main, so a« to be quite" defended,hoth from the t?ast^n and western blastt^ With land also toward the north, and tb? rock to the south-east, she was open to only three points of the corapassi «» that we had reason to be pleased witli our success, where - no peat choice could have been commanded at any tim& The depth of wjrter was thirty-three ffeet: and as there had been a curnnt ( as Ipng as tiiere could have been one, we had a right to conckile ' thatit would retom wiUi the summer, and expedite Ike diamption/' of the ice, so as to assisti ua in jetting out, whenever that^Sason should «mve. The boats were now therefore landed, the decks deared of ropes anai8pars,.and the otheif needfutammgements made for housing the ship during the winter. > 8M. There could, in lact, no longer I^ the least doubt that We • 7*^*"^*^' ^»°*«!; «^?*e; if wfe could indeed have reasonably . doubted this some days before. But, as I hav^ already s^d, it wi a time J» come, sooner or later; and if we had, within ^iiTlart week* * ' ftundreasonsenpugh to feel neither suiprise «or ^isappoiptm?nt , flo,as I had confcludfed^ atour first entanglement in. this'Sace, were ^ ise far from being wire.that we had any>ing to ^gret ^We cou W .^ tTiw^lf'l^'f i*° J««da.^ active lifi^nVrweSinoteve^knbw , hat we.should find any thing useful to dbT but it wasair busing * ^ S «°°*^^?/«»P'y.e°** and to make^urselvVM eisy andawiS ,< *'S.7 !^^* und^ eirgumstaiwes which we M ample Ajason to e^ * pfect We were, I believe, aU pret^ well pr6videS wiApatSMl ^lt?*lT^w'^°u*^^°*^°'»^'*^" ^^ «^r years to a«w* aomewhat deeply On the former, and to ppve, pf the lattef,S5 ^ m^, perhaps, depenas on .a fortunate poiSEutiori than ^i^hl -^ Our convictiop was indeed absolute; for Acre was ndW not an ' itZlA «L""^f !:^ ^ «««» "^y where; 4nd exceptibgAe oc^ Z^J""^ Poin of a protrqding rock, nothing but one dSzlingTd ZnS^hT •¥ .«»d '.earisome exteht of snow was visiKl prospect Amid all it?. brilliancy, this land, the land of ice and snow ' has ever been, and ever wilf be a dull, drirv, he^t^inkini^ST tonous waste, under the influence of ^hiTthe ^S*is X' lyzed, ceasing to care or think, «as it ce^ to M ^4tXh^ iK ' k i^l^.'l'r '*°' ^. but pne day, stimulaS tTby ite ^^y^^r^ . U IS but the view of uniformity and silence and dSithrS^n I ' poeucal imaginatibh wo^ld be troubled to extract matter of dJSji *^ '*\ h. « It . > '; - 1 i 'h •t .;, •^..•. ' • • 'v * ' ( • , ^■■■ i \K .)' i SECOND TOTAOS OF DnCOTSRT tion'from that which ulSttn no variety; where nothing moves and nothing changes, b|it all is for ever ^% same, checfl-less, cold, and still. - ^ Amid all this, if was a satisfaction ift find that every ohe seeii|KKl pleased with the pro^ss which had been,.made. It was indee^ &r .short of what had kt first been expected; but on examining What ''had been done, much more' quietly and far more in detail' than we had been enabled td do in our first reflections undei; wis obstruction, and on c^paring that ^ith our numerous impedimeJQrts and misad- venturesj. the view now taken was not less reasonable than gratify- ing. We could not forget die days when we should haye tiiought ourselves fortunate though we had only neached Port Btxwen in^^is season, and thbueh we had failed in attaining to the Sffireek tiA the stores of the Fury. But whea the chart was at length di^layed before us, w« saw that we had not mprety reached this great point ' in our voya^,' but had passed it by a hundred and siirty-six geo- graphical miles, and were two hundred further than that harboor wher^we had expected to be laid up, if we had even a^ned that spot Nor was it less satisfactory' to reflect on the numerous dan- gers which we had escaped, in navigating passages so thtly intricate and perilous, under the gales that we had evaded, and through the ice which had been rendered oar slave ratther than our master. Thus comparing and considering, as we had at lehgth ample time and much reasoh to do, we canie to the ttanquillizing conclusion that we were now become 9 little united and settled £Bimi1y;'aH equally zealous and equally patient; all ready for n^w difficulties Whenever they should occur, and, while all thankful for our success, atl» whose duty it was to obey, giving obedience jrith a good will, or an dac- rity, which might not have been equally conspicuous under posi- tive martial law. During twenty-four houirs the gale was fresh from the eait-south- east, wim driving snow, which was inconvenient as far as our works were concerned; hut the thermometer being at 24°, the cold was not severe. The men were employed in clearing the hold and measuring the remaining fuel, and the engineers were busied on the engine: v^e the carpenters were at work in making alterations in the cabin, to secure us better from the cold. We had not lately been able to keep it hi^er than 28°, in consequence of the position of the door; but by these alterations, we could now keep it at 45°, and had no desire for a higher temperature. This is sufficient to keep off* damp: and in this cKmate, that is a circumstance more to be avoided than mere cold. We boiled the blubber of our bear and some seals, on shore; but the smell attracted no foxes or bears,jK> that we believed there were no animals at this place. ^ 9/Ai The snow ceased tiiis morning, and the thermometer rose from 19° to 35°, the sun shining bright during the day. The engine was nearly taken to pieces; and, by thronring down the bulk head. ■r I m TO THB Ascnc SXajOHtk 111 the Nttnen's aceoomodatioDfl were mate^y extended. Obaerving tome large hples of water to the aouth-west, we went to examine them, and found them varying from twenty aquare yards to an acre, in extent, with a strong current boiling up at their western side*, and running towards, the east, in which direction their longest di- mensions lay. During the whole day this current remained the same; a fact which puzzled us, as we were obliged to postpone the ■■ determination of its real nature and cause ^ the ensuing summer. If there were any among us who had theories pf springs here rising in the sea, or rivers running; into it, they are not worth the trouble of either detail or examination. '^ ^ Towards evening the wind came round to the northward, and the thermometer fell to IS**. A aeal was diot, but was lost by sinking; aiui the skeleton of th^ bear haviA|; been sunk in the water tbaiit iji^ht be cleaned bv the nurinetmimals, was brought up with some ahnnpa and riiell fish attached, to increase our smadl collection of ^lecimena. This wa»< the only perfecUy dear night we had aeen smce oor residence in these straits; and the moon being full, the as- pect of eveiy thing was unusually i^eerfttl. 10/A. The northerly breeee had blown hard, but subsided towai^ morning, so as to leave us a bright and clear day; the sea horizon, however, presenting a thick fog. Nothing remained standing op board but the lower masts with their rigging. An excursioaon shore led us to a rude stone of a columnar form, erected by the Es- qiwmaus^ but for a purpos6 that did not appear; and we observed the tracks of foxes. A small quantity 6t clear water was still seeh to the northward, as well as in the openings ah«ady mentioned ; hiit we could, conjecture fio cause for this current In ih% day the tem- Pf™iS"!«y" P\^"'°?,*^ 10" «t nij^ht The latitude was settled at 69" 58' 42" and longitude 92® 1'.6 . - 11/A. The sky being overcast, the thermometer rose; to 18° but, even at this temperature, it did not feel cold, as the breeze was mt derate. The sh,p»s crew were mustered in good health, excepting R. Wall, who had (idlen dowa into the engine room, yet without amr senous injury. After church se^ice, the men ^ire allowed their tarns on shore; and, in their walk, they set up a landmark for the ship, abdUt four miles off on the coast The wind frejflienedk mght, and the thermometer fell to 11°. . 12M, 13M. There was no material change. The work in the ff- J".i'*°*"'"*^» ??!' P*"** ^°^ * powdeTmagazine selected on ThpTSJ ^ ""' which was consequently named Magazine island. «^ln* ? l*«gre8towed, the fuel was measured, 5id found to amount to seven hundred bushels of coal and coke ; beine, as ^ computed, sufficient for the ordinary wanto of the ship K ^e «^e number of davs^ A complete^examination of tlE pSfi^Ss fort^tf '"** T. *** "1"^' '"«"' ^ fi"'* *hat there wm enough : for two yean and t»n months^ on full tUowarice; a quantity easily ' « 1 ' H V ■™" J. 1- M. • **> ^ / ■■■ ' f » -mr- ,■-.. *_ ■-- -v ■ s^ - ' « ' /■ ^ . '- t- ' * * ' •• "-- . ■>•■ ;, v. V •* -,- »' -f ' ^ ■ 1!; r t' w^ lis SBOOITD VOTAOB OV DUGOVBRT made to cover three years* consumption. The <)uaiitity of oil and tallow vt^ found such as to promise a duration equivalent to that of the provisions; presuming, at least, on the further assistance that we had a right to expect from our captures of bears and seals, on sea and land. The thermometer, on the twelfth, was 14", falling to lO" the next day; and again rising to SO", it remained so till late, not falling below 17° at midnight; the weather becoming more and' more cloudy, with an appearance of threatening snow. We thought our- selves fortunate in discovering here what might turn out a source ^ .of fresh provisions, in a large whelk, which had not been seen in the former voyages. Some unsuccessful attempts were made on the seals, and a part of the engine was hoisted oVer on the ice. The snow, on the following day, 14th, %|[filled its promise; coming on very early in the morning, when the theraiometer rose to 20**, and then to «8*>, falling back to 17" towards night The brass guns were put on the ice, with more of the engine, and the lower deck was cleared of some spare stores, by stowing these in the hold. They who valued omens were left to speculate on the prophesying of a raven which flew roun4 the ship. How far they did specubte, and what their prognostics were, I did not take the troubte to in- quire: had they been either absurd or important, it is probable that I should have heard enough of them, without inquiring. %■£ I \; A , % V ^:^- ■ ,■ :t ■•V. TO THB ABCTIC RBOIOITS. T ii» . CHAPTER XIH. ' Semarhon the actual temoerature andon that ^ sensation — Proceedin lightening the ship^Tjie engine finally landedy and the krusenstem secttred^Roo&ig oftheship completed— -Remarks on the tempetaiure — Abolition of the useof spirits onboard — Contrivances f or wttmiing and tentUating the vapour between decks — Description of the set&al ar- rangements made for lointeriTigf as relating Mh to the ship and the ^ crew* ■ f", ■ Oct. la*. iTrajpo^f^ased before daylight, but it blew fresh from the north; feelin^ery cold, though the thermometer, was IS**;* a temperaturef^hich, but a few days before, had not oeen disagree^ able. This difference is, very obviously, as it is vulgariy, explained by the different strength of the wind; while the immediate cause, on this supposition, is too simple to require statement. Bi|t there is much more to be taken into consideration; while some of the cir* cumstances are either so little heeded, or so difficalt to perceive, that if the reader is sometimes puziled to explain the apparent contradictions in the reports on tb£ actual heat and on that of sen* satioif, they who feel that of whi6h others read, are often not less Euzzled themselves. I may as well state here, once for all, what as struck me \^en thinkuig on this subject; since the same collision of facts is likely to be of frequent occurrence, and the reader will be thus enabled to explain for himself, many future statements of u»e same nature, and save me the trouble of recurring to what I beheve to be the phikMophy of tliis subject ^ Among these considerations, is (he hygrometrical state of the air, of which we did not prieserve any register but this is not so simple a case as it appears at first sight. Every one knows that a dampair 1Mb cold and raw; it is a better conductor of heat Yet the same eflect on the sensations is produced by the reverse condition of the atmosphere. A dry air increases the evajporatkm from the body, and that evaporation is a source of cold. Cbmbining one or other of ' these conditions with the varying strength of the wind, we already see a certain way into the intricacy of this question; but that b n«4 yet the whole, even as the inere atmosphere is concerned. The 16 /^ 114 UXOVD VOTAlSB OF DOOOVBRT '■t :s. "^i damp air does- not, necessarily and always, produce h sensation of coldness, and, least of alK does it produce this effect when th^. weather is calm; since a fog, by checking the radiation of heat frdni the surfiice, may be more than an equivalent to the cold which its conducting power might cause; while it also acts in the same direc- tion; in another manner, by checking the evaporation from the body. But the state of the body itself is scarcely of less moment than all this, in any attempts to explain these apparent contradictions; as it complicates the whole question in^ far nigher degree. Every one knows that the sense of cold can exist in certain fevers, even under the burning sun of Africa; and the same internal sensation, as of a Ipw temperature, is of frequent occurrence from other diseases, and moreover from derangements of health so slight as to be unde- finable. It is far more remarkable, that the feeling of extreme cold can be presejiit, under fever, wh«n th« temperature of tbe body is many degrees above the natural standard, and when to the ti>ttch of . others, the patient is burning hot; as,' in the space of a very few mi- nutes, it may appe&r the same jo himself, though no chaise of the actual temperature has taken place. ' Thus also, if the circumstances difier, does exercise, or~the want * of it, produce sensations of temperature, when there is nothing~«x- temal to cause them; and the case is similar under want, or reverse^, under abundance, of food. These are things which affect the power that generates animal heat; as the greater or less energy of this power is perhapa the chief c^use of all the facts which are often so difficult of explanation under a simple regard to external tempent- ture. That eneigy, too, is not the mere produce of food or exercise; theire are cases, in which no alk>wance ^f food, and no exertion of ^^ the muscular powers, will suffice to preserve a bigh temperature in the human body. In reality,' though it is little remaiVed, and, as far as I know, is not even observed by the writers ra physiploey, the power of generating heat varies exceedingly in different individuals, and is as much a portion of the original constitution, as are the mus- cular or the mental energies. Any one who pleases may observe this in common life; it was always striking to us, in circumstances where the application of the test was so often extreme; so that, after a little practice, it was easy to anticipate who would suffer from de- grees ofcold which others wo^d despise. In mentioning this, I am also, in justice to the chief suflerers in our crew, bound to observe, that 1 have myself been noted, by a ^--.^physkdogist of well-known reputation, as possessing in a very high ■ decree, th^fower of generating heat, whence too, as he infers, that" . indifference to cold of which I was always conscious; together, con- sequently, with the very limited comparative su£ferin^\ that I ex- perienced durinjg that long protracted winter, as I may\ fairly call . _ it, which occupied ibur of the winters of England, yet sueh wmters as Ei^land never nw and will never conjecture, together with five TO THV ARCTIC RBOIORS. 116/ i sensation of ct when thu, I of heat frdm" cold which its e same direc- 'om the body, moment than ontra^ictions; gree. Every fevers, even Dal sensation, ' >ther diseases, a to be unde- eztreme cold f the body is > the ^ttch of very few mi- hai^e of the , oirthe want a nothing~u- orrevereew, ct the power aergy of this I are often so nal tempera- d or exercise; exertion of mperature in iVed, and, as lysiplo^, the t individuals, are the mos^ may observe ireumstances so that, after [fier from de« r sufleren in noted, by a a very high e infers, that sgether, con- ^ that I ex- iy\ fairly call such wmtera lier with five i summers, of which ever^ one would, in that countnr, be deemed severe beyond the severity of its own Januaries andf Februaries. I muA leave it to the reader to judge how far this constitution may have influenced my reports on the temperature of sensation, on many occasions; it is certain that I could not judge what others felt; but 1 coiild not haye described what I did not myself feel. These 4-emarks are not mere matters of philosophical speculation, ' nor are they questions of amusement or curiosity alone. They oBcr useful hints to those who may hereafter engage in similar expedi- tions; since they deserve some among the first attentions in the selection of a crew. Other circumstances of apparent health and strength being equal, it is he who seems the readi^t generator of heat who ought to be the selected individual; for no. one will know, until he haf su.£^red from it, what disappoiStmcnts and vex- ations and labours, and restraints to the service, follow from the su»> ceptibility of cold in the individuals, who may form the crew of a ship on a service like this: to say nothing of the accidents, in morti- ficationr and death, and in scurvy too, I have little doubt, which follow from the. same cause, I know not, hawever, that I can give rules that will not produce disappointment, where the test of facts would be the really desirable guide. Bui this at least seems cer- tain, that men of the largest appetites and most perfect digestion produce the'most heat; as feeble stomachs, whether dyspeptic, as it is termed, or merely unable to receive much food, are subject to^ suffer the most from cold; never generating heat enough to redst its impressions. - , Physicians must determine whether the strong digestive power and the heat-generating one are but parts of one original constitu- tion, xtr whether the laree use of food is not a cause of the produc- tion of heat; but what follows is at least practically true, as the -reasons seem abundantly plain. He who is well-fed resists cold better than the man who is stinted; while the starvation from cold follows but too soon 9. starvation in food. This, doubtless, explains in a great measure, the resisting powers of the natives of these frozen climates: their consumption of food, it is familiar, being enorinous, and often incredible. But it is also a valuable remark for those who may hereafter be situated^ike ourselves; since^if these views ^re correct, M I believe^ them, both from experience ftnd reasoning to be, it shows that no effort should be spared to ensure a& ample supply of the best food. , ^^ Our system, whether in the navy or the merchant servic^ and in" whatever parts of the world, be it the icy seas, or the tropical ocean, MS been as fixed as it is uniform; and perhaps 1 ought not to blame those who have made r^ulations, when they did not know, and could not therefore take into consideration the grounds on which their orders ought to have been regulated. If the allowance of the food for seamen,^under all ppssible differences of climate, or \; .- >1 ( I ^ "^ ■*,,-• t ■:*.t» rtrn / . SIECOIfD VOTAOB OF DISOOVBRY \ labour of service, technically ipeakine, has been fixed and uni< form, implying circumstances, and involving consequences respect- ing wfaiCD 1 dare not here take room to speak, so, in the case fmme- diately before me, have we been accustomed to fix the allowance of food, to restrict it, I may fairly say, through an experience founded on far other circumstances, or under a system calculated from very diflereot data. > The conclusion therefore in which I wish to rest, willingly as I' would have extended these remarks, and perhaps then extending them so as to produce the greater conviction, is this; namely, that in every expedition or voyage to a polar reeion, at least if a yrinter residence is contemplated, the quantitv of rood should be increased* be that as inconvenient as it may. It would be very desirable in- deed if the men could acquire the taste for Greenland food; since all experience has shown that the large use of oil and fat meats is the true setcret of Kfe in these frozen countries, and that the natives cannot subsist without it; becoming diseased, and dying under a more meagre diet. Nor do I know that this is impossible; since it is notorious that where the patients in English"^ hospitals have been treated with fish oil for the cure of rheumatism, they not only soon learn to like it, but prefer that which is strongest and most offen- sive. I have little doubt, indeed, that many of the unhappy men who have perished from wintering in these climates, and whose his- torieii are well known, might have been saved if they had been aware of these facts, and had conformed, as is so generally prudent» to the usages and the experience of the native^ I know not that I am safe in making another remark respecting the constitutkmB which peouliarly generate Heat, becauaH this is the business of phyricians; but they will be r^ady enough to correct me if I am wrong. A ruddy, elastic, florid, oAr clear complezioned man, has always seemed to me better secured by nature against cold, tbt^ the reverse constitution; and the term for the former is a saneuine temperament, while that which is applied to the other is, & pnl^- matic or a melancholic man: but physicians best know how many species there are in this class. At any rate, the pftle, and flabby, and sallow, and melancholy-looking men, are not the men for an arctic voyage; they suffer most from cold, whatever individual ex- ceptions there may be; and therefore I suppose that they do not manufacture heat to the same extent as the otherp. If such men also are slow and melancholy in mind, as I believe to be very com- mon, this is most assuredly an additional reason against employing them; for even when these feelings occur in a better temperament, they diminish the power of resisting cold; as, if the exciting pasnons, as they are termed, a fact which I know not how to doubt, led to the . generation of heat, and the depressing ones to the reverse. And this, pe the theory true otnot, bemg practically the fact, inasmuch as hope an4 confidence make men bear that cold under which the timid ^ J2>w_ « TO THB ARUTIC RlOlOira. Ked and uni- Dces retpect- e case frnme- le allowance 1 experience ID calculated willingly as t en extending namely, that ' Bt if a winter be increased,, desirable in- d food; since — I fat meats it it the natives ing under a le; since it is Is have been ~ not only soon 1 most ofien- mhappy men id whose his- ey had been allyprudent» i4c respectiitg tse this is the o correct me sxioned man, ist cold, than isasaneuine is, a pbl^' w how many , and flabby, s men for an ^dividual ex- t they do not rf such men ie very com- st employing staiperament, ting passions, bt, led to the . !. And this, inasmuch as ich the timid '^.* an 4' ^'3 ana desponding suffer, theugfa perhaps it is only that the same con- stitution leads to both results, producing hope and displaying energy while it also generates heat, another suggestion offers itself respecting the care to be beitowed on the crew, and the occupations which should be invented for them, as well as in regard to the original choice; sinca it thus becomes the interest, not less than the duty, of the commancP ing officer, to keep up their spirits and hopes, by any means that he r, can Contrive; as, in doing this, he also knows that he is ado^ng one (^ the best expedients against the attacks o/ the scurvy. I will only, add to these remarks, what may, I trust, be of use to future arctic navigators, namely, that although every expedient in the way of clothing should be adop^e^ for resisting the impressions of extertial temperature, as these ar^|i|^ell known to require detail, nothing will compensate for the jii|^^ke,heat.generating energy, but external heat; as that is IttiBKAn imperfect expedient. It IS of Ijtlle use to clothe hiHiiKf^o^ '*» himself, produce heat; itu like the attempt to ^^SMmmmeot ice by means of a blanket; but it is too commons JpM^o imagine that the expe- dient which can only preserve h'esifirtapable of producing it. _ 16/A. The weather cmitinued fihe,but the thermometer fell to 6". We cdntinued to lighten the ship and^et out the boilers. I ascended the highest acfcessible hill to the south-west, and obtaining a good view,, conceived that the distant land was continuous from the south- west till it closed in with the west end of the island, though I could not be positive respectingobjects so far off", nor be sure that there was not some opeiiinjg. The land was very rugged, and intersected by ravines, with many small islands scattered along the shore. There was still some clear water to the northward and in the inlet; but the horizpn Mng^ lyizy, we ^^' 't continues calm till eveijing, when there was a light air. We again obtained lunar Ik' > ■ f': X' ' ■■! 118 ^ECOND VOrAQJB Ot DISCOVERY r.i ■ Hi\ ! .! . J/ It 11 M;' ;'• distfinces to the amount of a hundried and twenty, with meridian altitudes of the sun and of several i^jtars. A chronometer, intended for the transit observations, was set to mean time. In the course of the evening, the frames belonging to the engin^ were got out: and I believe the men felt that they were fast ridding^hemselves of a nuisance; of an ^ncmy, where they had reckoned on' a friend. 2Qth,'The fine weather continued, and the/temperatu|j^*|ell to two degrees under zero. It was our first minus^ andwe h^an to agree that the cold weather was really arrived. But it was verf tolerable thus far. In the course of the day it rose to plus 7°; but, at night, fell again to minus 9". The last of the engine was hoisti^ out: may I not say that there was not one of us who did not I&il this event Wtth pleasure. We could not even look at its fragment^ without recollecting what it ought to have been, and what it proved to be; nor Without reflections, ahd those not kind ones, on its maker, when we remembered the endless and ever recurring trials of our patience which it had caused, the never ceasing jaboAr of the m0n in its reparation, the .ever renewed hopes, prodi^cing ever new disappointments, and the loss of temper, to most of us, I fear, of which it had been the fertile cause. The enemy, however, was at last at our feet; and while it was incumbetit on us to store it up, though it would in reality be difficult to say why, were it not from that habit, or feeling, which rebels against absolute wastefulness, I believe there was not one present who ever again wished to see,* even its minutest fragment. ' 2lst.. The' Krusenstern was secured yesterday, and, at night, an aurora.made its appearance. A fish which we believed might be a new species, as we had not seen it before, w;as taken. The thermo- meter was low, ranging between plus and' minus 4*: the weather nearly cajm. The erection of a roof over the ship v^as commenced, and a white fox shot We could get no lunar observations, and%ere not likely to procure them again for the next four months. 22d. Though the land was mu(;h elevated by refraction, this day, it showed us nothing new: the thermometer did not materially vary. It now became necessary to cut away the ice round ilj/s ship, m consequence of her having been 8d«^uch lightened; that she might set^e to her natural line of flotation. This being doDe, she rose nine inches; and we proceeded to build up a bank of snow and ice round her, for shelter from the cold. The galley was also moved, and placed in the centre of the men's berths, that the heat from the fire might be more equally distributed. A tank of plate iron was, further, placed on the upper deck, over the coppers; aiiQ, by this contrivance, the steam, which is a constant annoyance at these low temperatures, was secured and condensed. Another raven was seen; and our fishery of whelks, though never very productive, was continued daily. 23d. A fre^h breeze rendered the cold very sensible to^y;. |fut * 1 -1 t. -»■,.. v/, ,3^ - %., .-»• '■■*r' \J TO THE ARCTIC RSGIDITS. 110 iti eflfect was, nevertheless} to raise the thermometer from minus 6* to plus 8° in the course of the day. This wind continued on the fol- lowing day, with drift snow; the thermometer falling to minus d® and then rising again as high as plus 15°. This is a sure indication of snow in these climates; and accordingly a heavy fall came on at midnight. S^me other useful alterations were this day made in the ship; and, among t^he rest, a pipe was carried from the upper deck to the fire, by means of which that was easily regulated. These things being done, it was found that a very small quantity of fuel was sufficient to keep the lower deck, where the crew lived,,^ and comfortable, and to maintain a medium heat of about .sl^ being what I judged the most advantageous one. 25ately found the advantage of this a4ditional security against the cold. Other needful arrangements on the part of the carpenters an| engineers, found us in-door employment, when it was especially uniife for inexperienced men to work out of the ship, lest they should be fi;pst-bitten. . Vtth. After continuing to blow a storm all day, the wind fell at SIX o'clock, and the weather cleared: after which the snow ceased, and it becam^ calm. We were thus enabled to make considerable' •rogr^es for a time in c|ur srtow (ortification; but in the evening it •lew as hard as ever, and the thermometer fell to minus ll". Tlius It continued till six on the following^ morning, when it settled and cleared. In the course of this day the temperature sunk to minus 18°, being the lowest that had yet occurred. The ship, however being now completely housed in, we found ourselves in a very com- comfortable position. ' ': ,J't\J^ the course of the preceding night the thermometer rose to plu8\3», and, during the day, to 4«; a state of things, as I have just remarked, always attending snow, which accordingly fell in consi- derable\auantity. On the following day, the drift.was so great that we could not proceed with our embankment. The changes in the temperature were not so remarkable as V> need recording here; but 1 must rimark, that on this, as on almost every preceding occasion, fn ♦!. TT**r indicated the coming g^le. A white fox was taken in tne traj6, alive. Jnl\^T^^ •'1*1 '"" ^^V' "**• *^« thermometer fell to minus 16 . , At sunset there was a large halo, being but the second 'f- \- T\' u»** 120 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ^^ that we had seen; it was, however, only a white onei* There was afterwards an aurora to the southward. The tops of the mouDtains were considerably bared of their snow by the gale: but the c<«- trasf of their dark rocks with the whiteniess antundronly served to render the aspect of this winter landscape jnore desolate. The pow fox was accidentally strangled: only, however, anticipating a fate which we should have been obliged to inflict hereafter, though we didnot then foresee it , * We had, on this day, completed the first month of our im|HisoD> ment in this dreary and miserable country, and were naturally led to compare our present condition with those of preceding voyagers, and to make some general remarks on various matters, the pest - important if which I may now record, as briefly ai may be. --——- I may firstnote, that in this cKmate, unlike to Sweden and Norway, the degree of the 'tenmerature bears little or no relation to theiati- tude. This will be sufficiently evident by the brief comparative table which I here insert, relating to our own mean for this month and those which Had been formerly found at Afelvilie island, Winter island, Igloolik, and Port Bbwen. It is itot however a very accu- ' rate comparison; because^ in these casfes, the temperatures were observed on board the ships, not on the ice; while the allowance of three degrees for that difierence is far from sufficient; my own ex- perience showing that it may amount even to six degrees. These ai% the facts ic^questbn: r,« i'^^ '.! m- ib,. Victory's DOS. Melville Isl. Winter Island leloolik ^rt Bowen Latitude. 69° 69' 00" 74° 47' 20 " 66° ir 27" 69«' 20' 30" 73° 13' 40 " Longitude. 92° 01' 06 " 110° 48' 7" 83° 11' 0" 81° 52' 46 ' 88° 64' 48" Meai^mp. of L Oct. 1829, Do. 1819, Do. 1831, Do. 1822, Do. 1824, + 8°, 43t — 6°, 60t + 9°, 61» + 9°, 79t -1-10°, 85* In the next place, comparing our progress with some preceding ones, it was true^hat we had not reached so far westward as Mel- ville island; but %e had wrought tMir way through as much ice, since the extent of this navigation had been 240 geographical 'miles, as our progress had also been a very laborious one, and not a little hazardous on more than one occasion. It was now, further, quite ascertained that the tides came from the northward, and were both later and k>wer when the wind was from the south. We had seen no Whales for the iMt sixty miles, and had never fallen in with a walrus. :^ ~t ~— I formerljT' mentioned the quantity of proviuons and fuel that we had remaining, which were computed to last till August, 18d2> if .■li- r ' There was he mouDtains but the c, though W(^ rar im[MiBon> naturally led ing voyagers, irs, the nest ly be. --- and Norway, m to theiati- larative table is month and land, Winter a very accu- ratures were allowance of my own ex- ees. ^mp. of I + 8°, 43t , — 6°, 60t + 9°, 61* + 9°, 79* -1-10°, 85' ne preceding ward as Mel- as much ice, tphical miles, 1 not a little ss came from :hc wind was sixty miles, fuel that we ugust, 1838. to THE ARCTIC REGIONS. xy ISl But there was only one year's allowaiij^e of spirits, which was a ^ subject rather of congratulation than otberwise, since there can be no question of their pernicious effects in these frozen climates; on& of thosp, being,! have no doubt, to increase the tendency to scurvy. It was necessary, however, that what we had should be reserved for the future parties on land excursions, where it might often prove of considerable, if temporary service; or, as naight become necMsary, for our use in case of shipwreck, and our being condemned tFtake to the boats; since this article would then be valuabli not merely as an article of diet, but as fuelJFor, finally under the chance of our being unable to liberate the sivp in the spring, and being thus com- pelled to Gontinue our investigatidfis by land. Orders were accord- ingly given to stop the use and allowance of grog; while it was very satisfactory to find th^t these were received Without remonstrance. Our roofing had been perfected in this months but it still re- mained to complete our embankinent,^d to cover the upper deck with snow. * More arrangemenfij than those yet noticed had also been made in the interior of tb&ihip, by constructing a room in the place of the steerage, to recAv^'the men's chests and the apparatus for cooking and baking; while earner flues were carried from them round the whole apartment,, in ^der to convey away the vapour. Over the steam kitchen, oven, ^d after passage, apertures were made in the upper deck, on which^liere placed iron tanks with their openings downward. In these &e vapour was received, and became immediately condensed: but though we rather expected that we might have ^rawn it off in the shape of water, and had contrived means accordingly,, we founcl it so generally frozen that these wei-e of no use. We found this last eontrivance to be the best that had yet been adopted; and chiefly as, by keeping the apa/tment of the crew dry, Jt saved the necessity of forcing up the temperature,, as hand been done on former occasions, for the purpos/of keeping the vapour afloat till it was condensed on the beams and ^ck. This, tao,' involved a great saving of fuel: since we found tiiat a temperature between 40" and 60« was sufficient to make the place dry, warm, nnd comlbrtable, whereas it had, in the fhips that preceded us, been necessary to carry it as high asiQCP. # The regulations adopted on other mattes were the foltowing; and I point them out, that future adventurers in this country ms^ gam, without labour, the eXjierience which had iukv been pur- chased by many successive voyages. It will easily be seen liow ' much of all this was dlrettly useful, for some one or other specific purpose, and how far the intention was to find occupation for the minds of the men, and exercise for thei^ bodies. The men slept in hammocks, which were taken down at Ax in the mormng, and hung up at ten at night, b^ng also aired twice a week. The tewer deck, being the dwelling floor, was covered with M^ / .'V 'W ♦ % 125^ SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY r?-- 4^ hot sand eVerv morning, and scrabbed^with sand till eight, when tKe men breakfasted. Monday was settled in future as the waging day: and this operation being finished by noon, the linen we^s dried at the stove. The upper deck having been at length covered with snow two feefand a half in thickness, it was tfod down till it became a solid niass of ice, and was then sprinkled with sand, »so as to put on the appearance of a rolled gravel wafk'. Above this, was the i roof already mentioned, of which the canva\ sides were contiqued so low as to cover those of the ship. The surrounding bank of snoWr being completed, reached'to the ship's gunwale, so that the union of this with thh roof formed a perfect shelter from all wind, and thus excluded, very materially; thfe impressions'of the ezter^l fold* In the same manner there was a covering of snow to the cabm deck, whife the skylight was fitted vvkh double sashes: but the way from <^^ the cabin to the deck was not closdd, since the frost was not-yet so ir, \ intense as to'rendtr that neces^ry: the inner doors wer^ merely I fitted with ropes and pulleys. ^ ^^ « « 1 With respect to' the arrangements b^low, a communication was ^>v Imade from the'.steerage to the fore part of the space between decks, < uby means of a door leading ^rst to an antechamber screened off by canvas, and then, to a space, similarly about five feet square. Into (this last the mtfen descended immediately from the deck: and thus passin^^ the antechamber into the dwelling apartment, they were not exposed to ai^ sudden change of temperature^ In this way, after first ridding themselves of snoW, they were compelled to leave all theiMresses, which might still contain snow or moisture, in the first '" ^'*'°"» o*" ^'^^'"''^•'^J t'^ence adviincing into the canvas apartment, pmich further %erved as a guard to prevent the entrance of the cold external air into the steerage, their, dwelling place. During the day, including the Space between six in the moriiing ' , and nine at night, the steam kitchen was found sufficient both for' warmth and cooking; and, in the night, the baking oven served the same purposcf while it also heated the sand for the morning's use. As it is a pernicious plan, being a very clumsy and inconvenient qne, even in the domestic arrangements of England, to supply, from the doors, the air required for the fires, I caused a large copper pipe to ^ be brought from without to the fireplace. Thus, not only was the external air prevented from making a cold "draught" through the room, but the pipe itself became sufficiently warmed to assist in ' keeping dry the air within this printipal apartment. . By these means the vapour was enablett more easily to ascend and settle in the external condensers, instead of becoming water in the room itself; while, what was not less important, the fires were kept burning with a uniform .degree ^f strength. In proof of the effect of the utility of the'condfcrtsers, I may now remark that it was our practice to cjear them out every Saturday, and that the quantity of < ice they contained averaged about a bushel a day: the representa- .»j. ;''. ~v^ .■■*¥• •...,\ _*_„ ■* ^ Mi kf*« m^ .TO THE AHCnc RBGIOWS. 4 123 tive of a quantityjof vApour firsthand of a corresponding proportion of vvatcr afterwards, fliat would not only have been extremely an- noying but truly pernicious. ,» I In continuation of our wintering system, every atom of rigging was taken down, cleaned, marked, and stowed away. In arranging the duties %nd the victualling of the m?n, the following plait was ^doptedr^e whole crew being divided into five watches. The three leading, mates, the engineer, and the har{N)oner,had> each; with one seaman, the charge of the deck in their respective turns: their duty b^ing, to keep a look out respecting fire, wild animals, and nhtivcs, to register the direction and strength of the wind; with the appear- ances of the sky and weather, and the temperaturef asWll as the state of the tides and the occurrence of auroras. The officers, with their servants, the carpenters, the armourers, and the cook, had siUv ticient, other duties in their respectii'e departments. "^ The breakfast, of which the hour has been already menAioned. •consisted ^^ 3, anc i/T On Sunday, no work was allowed. /The men were mustered, and inspected in their best clothes, by ten o'clock, after which there \Jere prayers and a sermon. To occupy the remainder of the day, there was a collection of tracts which had been presented to us by •ft ' *'^"®'"^y' ?^ BJackheath, proving a judicious as well as a useful gift. But, at SIX there was a Sunday school: the occupation on this evening being the reading of portions of scripture by the men, while the day was concluded by psalms and by the lessons appointed in the liturgy. Of the good •fleet of this system of religioipa duties and ' ' instruction, I could entertain no^j^t; for the men #>med trulv « feel that they all bel^ged to on^$MikA|ily: evincing triutual kindness with a regularity and tranquUlity of behaviour which are not verV general on board of a ship. «^ • t ?hl r V)^ K®'.^" ^^"-^^ ^^^^'^ «F"'W^*^'"*'i"g Sundays: S» these regulations having regard to th^TcouSral uses we^nlb de- rive from the heat necessary for those pjirp^. the alio JPe of prov.8K>ns to the men anrUe^ officers.^'ssS^for Iburteen days, is ' 'Jt- seen in the following table. t it was our » ■^w -Hfe-- ■T — — f^' ;.<, .'...-.„«<«»**■• =5=^ ' ^-' ^*' %r« •< *i M fa ^^H - aj • 9 T 'fl su fl If 's tl 4i ^' n 1 P< T a I th t st \ ;.!* •/% Besides this, viflejgar was seirved as it was required; but, mote • " ' f >rarely, preserved soups, as it^as thought best to reserve them for ' .the coldest weather, or for ^artibular occasious. There were also' ^' lemotis and Jtamarftids for those who' might be unwell. ^* . *rhis portion of the sWp's ^ty appei-tMocd to Mr. Thom> who ' ^ * bad. a'Iso.the charge of the 1<^, as master not 'less than putver; to- • .'^getber Vith that of the ba|[ome|er. And its attached thermometer. > ^l^h? chronometers weri^ now under the charge of ComiDiander Ross; ^ ' whp also took a joint duty with myself in the navigation and tlie ^^ " different classes of obseryation: \i^th the further undivided command "^M over the department of natural lustory. > .< TO THB. ARCTIC RllOlOirSi ■#' 126 • ,4 . \ CHAPTER XIV. . \ The month commences sto^y and cold^Improvement in its prpgresg-^ ' Bemarks (^Ke thermometer and barometer--^Occltirrence of a spleridid aurora borealis — Summary tf the month. ib; V . JVot>. 1st. The most severe rtorm that we hid yet experienced came on this day; bursting suddenly' from the north, with a heavy fall of sQow, and the thermometer under zera Sunday, was spent as usual, except that it was impossible to iake exercise on shore. There was an auro/a at night, but not>brilliaQt. ^i^. The gale then subsided, and was followed bv a finerday: when, alUiough th6 tem- perature was at minus 14°, the cold was by no means disagreeable. Though the distant horizon was not very clear, we could see that the ice was partially broken up by the st(^ij#8ome clear water ap- pearing in the south-eastdrn quarter! Ip. the evening of this day the wind came to the westward, and there was another aurora, of short duration. Sd. There was no material change of wind or weather- this day, the thermometer being at minus 0°. We found trdces of foxes dur- ing our walk on shore. More was done towaf^ complieting our snow fortification; and I ^lie^ jnost readers now know, that the frozen, snowis cut' into masses fesembling ^qoared stones, and applied in the samb manner, as the cement is formed of water. On the fourth, there was snow again, during the whole day: the thermometer rose to zert^ falling again, in the night, to minus 10". We had now ceased to take the shellfish for some days. 5th. The morning was fine, and as is then unusuaK the tempera- ture got up to minus 1°. f^m^l^vr partridges were tilled. On the following MW^m^^M^^^ the northward, but not so cold as toJ|)>e1irflti iSecdNuy^rk. An examination of the condenses pftfed that they OoH^t^ JiUntly, a bushel of ice in the day, as Iiidticed in the summai^ of last m(ttth to be thf expected quantity.«ind we could n^t but be highly pm^d at reflecting that had it not been for the collectioQ »iid c^nd^tion ^thh miM»- p should have been ^urflKres the condemiers, and been involved in (pour and internal^rain, to an equivalent iimount, lA the twentjk £ ——. ■ JtkU * . ■ W. i^ — . 1 ... 1 lPf . { -I*. r ~. 1» ^. 1^ '^'V »* Ti n 12G SEOOITD VOYAOE OF DISOOVERt ,'J four houre. It is alw^s desirable to be relieved froin sufllering; but it is infinitely more gratifying, when we know that we have been benefited by the|exertion of our own invention and industry. These are among the ttuij^ rewards of exertion, in all the circumstances of life; and the self congratulation which follows is more t^n pardon- able. "■ 7th. In spite of a brisk wind from the northrcast, with much drift snow, our officers contrived to kill two ptarmigans; but notwith- standing such a breeze from this quarter, the thermometer rose to plus 3°. I must confess that these vacillations in the heat were not always intelligible; we knew, generally, what a peculiar wihd ought to produce, why an overcast sky should raise the tempera- ture, or a fall of snow make the air contparatively warm, and why also >ye ought to expect the severest cold with a clear sky. But all our causes sometimes failed us; and I can^ only now conclude, as . I #d then, that our knovrledge of the iitmosphere and its Conditions is a^ yet not sufficient to explain even the changes of temperature; ^ingus^asit does, in' every thing else. When we attempt to lay dowcTtfaose general rules, without the certainty of whieh, there u do sound knovtrledge. ^^ V Not is this less true true of whathas B(een deemed most certaib, namely, the changes in the barometer; at^d if what we had" occa- , sioh at different times to observte, be at present inexplicable, I can only remind my philosophical readers, that it has often, and amply, been confirmed, by the reports of La Perousi^ and the experience of navigators beyond number. The mercury b^s risen when it should have fallen; and it has sunk when ther^waA present every reason that has been a^ned for its rise. It has Hillen with winds from the east and the north; and also (for this has\been a reason given for its rise) with winds from the land; while- itWs risen un^ the reverse circumstances, being the received pne$ for its falL^Thus has a low barometer brought fair weather, an^ a high one rain; while I have also seen it fall, with an east win^, bringing Violent rain, when on^ comine round to the west, the ^ercury rose, even more than half an inch, T^ithin a very short time, i^nd with fine and settled weather. In a nautical view, these must ini^eed be consider- ed as exceptions: I should be very sorry, among ^thers, ^ere not this instrument still of much use on board of ships, especially in those seas and those seasons'in which sudden and viol|ent gale^ arise: but if its prognostics are not absolute, and not therej^ore su€h\ as to be an excuse for inattention to other circumstances, or for the amis- sion of constant watchfulness at sea, so miist it be recollected, that, in phikraophy, such exceptions prove our ignorance o( laws which we pretend to know. It4s a ally maxim, as it is d faltie one,Vpopu- farly rooted as, it is, that tBfe exception proves the rule; ihe slighteilC exerti(m,of common sense should show, that nothing csin be a law in philosophy if it admits but of one exception. \ * -^--^ m^ :,r %■ TO THE ABCTIO REaiONS. 127 ,S(X. On the preceding evening, the wind blew hard from the north-west; but the,, morning of^nday was beautiful with a bril- liant sky without a cloud. Di^qe\ervice was performed, and the exercise on shore was enforced as oh^ibrmer occasions: this being intended as k standing order for every Su^ay on which it might be practicable. All were well, except the aVo^r^r, whose constitu- v(Jidh could Mt Ipear the climate; He ought not, indeed, to have been mim us; hftring been destined for our consort, the John, as the ar- mourer of that s^ip was intended for the Victory. Unluckily, that man was one of those who joined the mutineers; aqd though I had intended to send th^ present ailing and feeble person home by the first whaler that we should meet, not one had fallen in our way. : 9th. The fine weather continued, with the thermometer at biiinus '°j' .^ ^oo*'"! Par^y had no success; seeing merely some hares, and the track of a bear. On the next day the same party wps soon driven m, by the thermometer falling to minus 20°, though the weather continued fine. At night'^it was 22° minus; "being tl^ low- est yet experienced. In the middle of the next day it came to blow. . and, in the evening, abundance of snow fell; both the force of the gale and the quantity of snow mcr^asing till midnight. Tkus we were prevented from getting efime occultations by the moon, in Tau- rus, on which we had calculated, and for which we bad made pre- paration. ' "^ 12/A. After blowing with increased fury, the galogbecame some- what more moderate towards evening. It is worthy of remark, that the range of the thermometer, in the last thirty-six hours, was 48° If the ice was at all broken up by this gale, it was a Matter whicli * ^e had no means of discovering, as there were now but three hours of daylight. But it was likely; for the wind coming from the north- cast to the south-east in the evening, there was an unusual high tide, and the ice near us burst open with a tremendous noise, admitting the water above it. The thermometer at midnight was asTich m 26° plus. *• mh. The temperature did not begin tofall till afternoon on this day. and then very gradually. This was a long duration of what may be caHed a high heat at thi| season of the year; since it had been above fuL.^l' *°? ^'^°"* eighlien hours: but the more remarkable fact is. th&t there^^a north-eibterly wind all the time: confirming the observations I hafe just made respecting the obscure causes by which temperature is regulated. According to general experience in these regions, the cold ought to have been severe. As to the thermome- - trical observations themselves, there can be no doubt of their accu- TI'J^^"'!*,'*®? ^^if® "^^® P° "'^o'^e' remote from the influence |Ot th^Jhip, while tli|d|rtruments wer6 the same that had been used on former e^pediUgWlt was almost amusing to find the sportsmen , complaining of tri^t;" and, with the snow that fell, there was le ram. • y^ , / ' M ^v y t i» ,■■ M 128 SECOND VOYAOfi OJP DI8C0V£RY kT' ■ ( ■ -A ^ 14/A. Though oUr8M|yil»;l«sUhout any success, the position of the sun /<>-Wl^^ sur- . reHndediy a belt, undefv which Ihe /s^^hot out hTsuch a^mannar' I as to give it the semhlance of ja atar'of th^^n og -the il^h, J& |.tbere was any one on board»who imagirti(prat*liis appearancelta* j^iBous of that, or any -other kMOhthoc?, .to ^ny of us, the secret Was kept; fortunately for the pfflBti^or, v?ho might have lost ^'L TM^ *'''[*""5 *8^ fa"»<^»<>?P>e#hough, by a -very singular c«il|-cjgaie, it hsBs befin {rccompJli<||sd on the very day that the cor- Hlfectioft of this sheet, jn passing though the press, enables me to add frits fulftlment. * . . '^y Kf 18iA. It w« still mild; bat from' the force of the wind, there waa ^ enough drift, on the Jiills, to prevent shooting: the thermometer .^ '^fS^ t I i i^i » ?^ ; t6 toe arotio rboiovi. 190 reached plus r* at midnight 19/A. Qur school wai completely or- ganizedvfor instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic, matbematici, and navigation; and the men being divided into classes, the neces- sary materials and books were distributed. Out of the eighteen, three had not learned to read and write; but the want of arithme- tic was very ^nerah the^hree mates w^cre capable of commencing 1«ith astronomy and navigation. No compulsion was here neces- sary; all were volanteers; and the school hours always terminated by reading two chapters from the bible, together with the evening psalms. 20tk. There bad been neither sun, nnoon, nor stars to be sedR hese two last days, and the weather still continued gloomv, with Jittle wind and less sqow. The thermometer reached 9^ and ave- raged fi** during the twenty.four hours. A white hare was shot. 1 he roilowing morning was equally All and dark, with occasioiMl «ow; tfaoi^ the moon made her appearance, once or twice, farm. r'Si***"'^ ^^"^ ^* midnight the temperiture fell to minus l**. A fenftle fox was taken in the trap to-day, and was bfought on board for the purpose of behig tamed. A very faint aurora was seen in the south-eastern horieoo. 32iiA Sunday wa| calm and ftlear, with the thermometer as low i^ hus r, Jo the oAprse of their walk after service, the men found tracks of reiitaedr, but nothing more. On Monday, the thermo- kr centmued tktliag tiU it reached minus 16°. Intending to pur- - tracks^ yesterday*^ reindeer. Commander Aoss proceeded i;tain distance along shore, and thus found, for the first time. ||>tttli-we8t poitttnof the nearest land Was insulated from tie T « ^llpel leadhig to the westward» but without being aUe «i» apoertam^^ihr it penetrated. The wind shifted to theMud»- -^rard; and tll|pei|,fettnd work itk «Ktricating the engine faoiicn, which, being on the fee, had been pt^-tially buried in a new kyer formed bj the breaking Hirough of the water a few days before. 84tA* An overcast sl^ Cadsed the thermometer to rue a few de> ^^ u?'^' the change was4>nly temporary. There wa» enough imk-k «ftr the day, in cutting out the viarieus ironWorkoT the engi as well as the whale beat, wMth Was in the«ame predicanMnt cahw on the island, intended as a guide to the ship for those might kise their way* was otMnpleted; and a thermometer constru purposely for us, was ited on it T%ere was a brilKaDt aurora to SC "^5"''*^ ***♦***"? »*" ««l waiance as far as the zenith. The Wind viiSiHiited on die IblleWiag day, and there was a ftlH morebriUiantoMiB the evening, iacrea#g in splendour tiU mid- •ifeht, and persuing till the following morning. It constituted a jrirtt nrch, the extremities of which wemed to rest on two opposed biHs, while Its coloar wak that of the full moon, and Itself seemed Aot lea iuAnnous; though the dafk and «omewhat blue «ky by mafat t^ _•_'? ■h'i . \ J ^p^ lao Ska m SBOOirp VOTAGB OF MiOOVIilllr m t)l^v which it was backed, was a thief cause/ 1 have no dottbtf of the splendour of its effect We can conjecture what the appearance of Saturn's ring must be to the inhnbitants of that planet; but here the'tfbtvjecture was per- haps verified; so exactly was the form and light of this arch what we must conceive of that splendid plaUetary appendage when seen crossing the Saturnian heavens. It varied, however* at length, so much as to affect this fancied resemblance; Vet with an increase Of brilliancy and interest. While the ma88,or*density,of the luminous matter was such as to obscure the constellation Taurus, it pro^ ceeded to send forth rays in groups, forming such angular pointr as are represented in the stars of jewellery^ and illuminating theobjectt on land by their coruscations. Two bright nebuls, of the same- matter, afterwards appeared beneath the arch, pending forth nmi- lar rays, and forming a still stronger contrast with the dark sky near the horizon. About one o'clock it began to break up into fragments and nebulae; the coruscations becoming more frequent and irregular until it suddenly vanished at four. 27th. It being noW the spring tides, the water flowed through the fire-hole, as it is termed, (being an aperture made for procuring water in case of the occurrence of fire on board,) ttbd covered the ice near the ship in such a manner, that we were obliged to oiake a fresh 'embahkment round it, to prevent thil inconvenience. The ther- mometer fell, in the evening, toninvaSn", and yet the air did not feel very cold. According to our latitude, the sun should have disappieared for^the winter, y^terday; but, unluckily, for the last three days, there was a cloudy horizon which prevented us from seeing it. It was not, indeed, certain that wenught not see it once or twice more, from the effect of refraction. The twenty«e^;hth was, however, no clearer than the preceding days, but the thermo- meter rose to SI**, minus. > 29th. It fell again however to 27^, and the cloudy horizon, at noon once more prevented a sight of the sun. 30/A. Every thine proceeded as was usual on Sundays. Monday was the clearest ana the calmest day we had experienced during the month, but it was also' very cold, the thermoineter falling to minus 37% and thus far outdmng whatever we had yet felt. Once more, the meridian, or the rising and setting sun as it may be called, was obscured by a cloud; so perr fectly, from the ship, that no s^ht of it could be obtained' aboye the fog bank which lined the horizon. But one or two glimpses of it were procured from the higher part of the island, whence, at noon, it was just able t6 cl^r that low cloud, for an instant or two. Thus closied the month of Novipmber, and> as we caljtulisited, with the last sight of the sun which We were tilpely tojtiaVe this winter. It wasjtill pletisin| fo find that it wai a beautifnl day, in spitn <^ the aaual cold, which was really hy iMtiqeans Msvere to tl»6'ieelinga. We had reason tf^ believe, ihat the ptamdplMjrerenow quitting t&s v\" ■ . .. i> „ ^iiy. ■ . -^-^. "W .J' f ■ff TO TRS AIICTlcr RDGIOIIS. cobst, and n^gratibg to the Muthwnrd, with the intention of follow- ing the sun in its course. Comparing now the mean temperature of ' this month with that which had occurred in preceding expeditions, we found no reason to expect a more severe winter than i» usual in these climates, notwithstanding the appearance of severity at the commencement, and the venr low temperature on the last days. It was also now diijcoverable, that the highest temperatures had . been with the north-easterly winds, and the lowest with the southerly ones: being the exact reverse of what was to be expected, and of what had occurred in former voyages. The only euilanation that we could suggest, whether right or wrong, was, that there was open water to the northward, and that the whole southern quarter was a mass of ice, whether on land or at sea; in either of which cases, the prospect of future progress in this direction was far from flattering. The weather was such all this month as to deprive us of the power of making any observations on the occultations of stars by the moon, aft well as all others, of whatever nature: and the men were too much occupied with more indispensable duties to admit of our erect- ing observatories for magnetic and astronomicBl observations on shore. It was nKMt satisfactory, however, to find, that the effects we had intended by all these arrangements had been attained. The system of comfort and economy which had been planned was as perfect as could be desired; and the satisfaction of the men, with these things, with each other, and with their facers, could not have been greater. Under their system of education* they had improved with surprising rapidity; while it was easy to perceive a decidedxhange for the bet- ter in their moral and religious characters; even, as I have reason to believe, to that Vhich is always rendered difficult from long habits, the abolition of swearing. i / / ■"i J ♦ . ' 5 1 vK -i; ^ /. Jr i las SBpOVD VOYAGE OF DISOOVBRY -\ ^t ^1 CHAPTER 'XV, 'W , *» t u* '.T'j .... ■ • .- • r. J 'Repeated octumnce of aurora borealiai^Christmas day — Summary of \ ihe month-^Remarks ai ^ termination ud io the soutltem horizon wou}d Juve preveHl the mxi from being seeih lbougb~» had still risen abjme that line as : it did, th^ day before. >The^ii^etic observatory was erected, q,n.d ' .thcitf her one commence^ •MrAIi^idB^bt there; was a magnificent ' apch oran aurora, but it was' only five degrees high. The colour > ^ '■ ' w{i8 a light y)^low; and it'eGhiMed rqVs; family bribaking up apd dis- 1 . '^'appearipg aboHt one o'cloclii^ 4m the norDyeast to the south-west, it, fell four degrees * lower^eonfirminiLtfieremarks already made ut as it passed'over no stars, Jt gaye us^ae of the ^°^^ Observatiofls that we wished. :- vi •J- TO THB ABCTIO aKOIONS. 189 / ^ • 8/&. The calm wenther was 'succeeded by a breeze from the Mrth*)' east, and the thefmometer ro6e«|o minus 16°. On th€ foUowuig*day there were light winds and hazy weather. The observatory beiqg finished, we obtained some occultations of stars by Ihe moon; The temperatur(B fell to 26° minus in the evening, and there was an in« . significant aurora. On the tenth th^rewfS a hab^ rolind the moon, ; < sending out rays ix> a great distance in the form Qi a cross. This was . repeated bn^ th^ following day; and the thermometer during tl^ three days ranged between minus 16° aiid S7°. A traMt of iMclel>a- nm was obtained. .. ... 1 \ih* There was little tonote-this day: tfie temperature and weather having little changed, and the men's employment^ remaining^ at . ^ • i|suaL The following w^s spent in the usual manner 'fixed for Sun- ;day. It is remarkable, that through the Jasit week,' the state of the ^ vt^eather allowed the fire^ to he discontinued for ei^t hours every * night; without lowering the heat between decks bejrond th.e -degc^ which had been Ifixed on as the best^Oh the following daju'MpndaV* - the thermometer was geneiiklly at muius 13°; and we wfte^agam annoyed by the water overflowing the ice. The weather was hazy, iapd mild to the feelings, both on this day and the following mornitog; on which there was ^ lai^e halo round the moon. Btat the wind rose, so that it becan^ so cold as to prevent the men from working on the ice, while the thermometer sunk also to minus 24°. ,y ' ;, V * 16/A. The same wind, with an equally low tempj^rHtufC^ continued to impede all out of door work; but,' on the 17th, the westerly wind i^came rdtand to the east, and it was then fd)bwed by a grea^ increale Af Mid, wMil th^heiimoineter at- lepgth fc;ll to 37° minus. . At this ^^ poinl (he nr(br^uj(jiirfroze, whether from being all<^ed, or*from the i|^ instrument having been ill gradu^^ed, we had no means of ascertain- thongli, the ibrljiier yV||l|torODable, as some other cfuicksilver we had on boaVd did im freeze. There Was^anoth4r^eauti- a thiiday. The ice round the ship Was much r^nt by the t>not so as to allow the \vater to overflow. * ' IfilA.. There had been a phort calm, which was succeeded by; apoth^r easterly breeze; and the thermometer then rose to minus 28°. Clouds obscured the aurora of yi^terday, tnligh it was stiU l^tially yisible, as if occupying the whole e^ac^rom efti$|: to west pn'the 10th the thermometer' wen| on rising till it reached 17°; but it was &r colder, as there was a sn^art breeze uttti| affWnoon, whea it becam€k/:alm and pleasant There wks nosucce^ in shooting: Ml anima^ sauned to have nearly desertedVhis part, of the coast. Qu^ carpeoteirSein| a musician, I oiig^t already to hi^yesaid that ^ men ^ere perimttearto dance on the iSaturday nights; holidays ^ this nattire having always been found acceptable, and advantageoiil^ while it was aim, nece^rily, a scho6l hoUdqir. '^ . 20"'. I '/' / 184 SECOND VOTAGE Or OISOOVERT mucb snow drift, and thei wind 'rendered it so cold tiiat we could flttt expose ourselves in any nvunner beyond a few minutes; the ther- mometer being at minus 20°. ^fter the aurora had ceased, it re- commenced at night in a more <^rilliant' form, with bright flashes amid its other varieties, disappearing a little after midnight. The clearness of the sky over head was such, that we coiild see per- ' fectly well in the cabin at midday, -even through the double sky- light, though it was covered by snow. Outside the ship, the smallest print couldfbe read distinctly. Sunday Was occupied in the^nsual raafiner,. ^ J'\'^' 2ist. The weather continued bright; an^ though the wind changed from the north-west to the north-east, it became calrt. The air felt mild, as is generally the case in those circumstances; the thermo- meter being at minus 16°* The horizon was so clear that every thing on it was visible; and thus we saw all around, more perfectly than ever, all the land that we l»ad seen at several times before. On the next da^ it was the same, and we obtained, from the hills above, a complete view of the horizon, particularly to the south- ward: where the colouring of the, sky was most various and splen- did; being a fitter subject of painting than of description, if it was indeed within the limits- of art. Much of the snow was blown away from the summit of the hills, so as to leave the brown and bare rocks visible. . 23fl. The morning commenced with an overcast sky and a breeze, but it soon became calm, and was followed by an aurora of short dtjiration. The same weather continued the next day, and the clear- «ne88 of the sky allowed us to see stars of the first magnitude during the brightest part of the twenty-four hotirs, including, of course, the hour of noon.* Venus was also seep in the southern quarter, dis- playing a bright golden colour. There was again an aurora: another to add to a succession of these appearances more regular and dura- ble than any which had been experienced in the former voyage te^ this climate. /^ 85/A. It was Christmas day. Thei'e are few places on the civil- ized earth in which that day is not, perhaps, the most noted of the yearf to all, it is at least a holiday; and there are many to whom it is somewhat more. The elements themselves seemed to have ^eter- minedJthat it should be a noted day to us, for it commenced With .a most beautiful and splendid aurora, occupying the whole ^ault atove. At first,' and for many hours, it displayeid a succession of arches, fpeS dually increasing jn altitude as they advanced from the east and proceeded toward^ the western side .•■;•,■,.■. - * ■*■ *^ •'— K- r < TO THB ARCTIC RiiGIONS. 186 ■"'.N atid orthodox pdmoti. I need not say that the rule against gr<^ wias rescinded for Ihis^day, since, without that, it would not have been the holiday expected by aie«;seaman. The stores of the Fury rendered us, liere, e^en piore than the reasonable ser^e we might ha've' ^ clainried; since they included minced pies, and, what Would have been more appropriate elsewhere, though abundantly natural ^here, iced cherry brandy with its fruit; matters, however,^ amusement, when we recollected that we were rioting in the luxwies of a hot London June, without the heat of a ball in Grosvcnor Square tagive' fhem value, and really without any especial desire .fpr sweetmeats of 80 cooling ajFtature. I believe that it was a happy day for all the crew: and happy days had a moral value with us, little suspected by those whose lives, of uniformity, and of uniform ease, peace, and luxury, one or all, render them as insensible to those hard-won eh- joyments, as unobservant of their effects on the minds of mgn. To display- all our flags (as shown in the engraving) was a niatter of course; and the brilliaiicy of Venus, was a spectacle which was Da« turaily contemp}ate,d as in harmony with the rest of the day. / 26lh. Christmas day was followed by a,c)ilm and clear morning, with the thermometer ranging from minus 18° to 22°. A few ob- servations by the transit instrument were takert, and there was ano- ther aurora. This continued till eight on the following morning, and the thermometer sank to minus 32°. Being Sunday, no work was doile. There was little change, and nothing new, on the following day; except that the temperature rose several degrees. f^iOn the twenty-ninth, it went down as low a^ 37?^ minus, so that the sua^ pected mercury froze again; but, beii% calmP weatj^, the cold \fy» not felt to be very severe. ^f^t |f , " '* 30/A. On this day we saw one hare, havingstien tivo yesterday; so that all the animals had not disappeared, ^here was very good light during the day, from ten till half after three; and, in ^he Course 9fit, the temperature rose to minus 20°. There was also a faiiit aurora; and some transits of stars were observed. Oni^e following dbrning the sky was pvercast; but the weather fellAmildi atvd.the, thermometer rose 12°. We found, on shore, the footpiflitsof i|'wdC yrhicb seemed to be travelling northward^ Jba'ying passed the shifm no great distance. Our chase of it ended in tracking it two miles, whep vie lost its trace^. 4 Thus ended the i^onth of December, and the year 1829. The temperature had .maintained, like the preceding one, wj^ere the , genera] results are tahulated, a medium rdtio among those appe^v taining to the former voyages in the ^ame month. Uncertain tis temperature here, as elsewhere, in|wt be,' vvhen examined undeF •; short fsriqffs, uncertain as even the^ monthly ineans should be, in different years, when we know how tke general characters of those years difier, it is a repjarkabk circiiiMfaQc6. that the nn^iis of all the latitudes and longitodes oT MelviHe island,* Igloohf, WJDter , > » «. - I / '•*s. 4 r* ■ w " ■ i , t !'"'■■ ;„■ ^, m. •= • ' 4 !» a *■ ■ '-'. *" ■'. s— 1 ■r. •; —- *■ -'^-■•i -i: -" \^ ISB 5;. SECOND VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY C '^ \K 'K ^^ *■■ r ^ island, and Port Bowen, give nearly the actual situation of the Vic- torjat Felix Harbour, while the temperature there ajpo agrees with the mean temperature of these j^r positions; indicanng tBere> by a griadUal relation of temperatuf^which is at variance with at popular theory on that subject. The observatory, I must now fennark, wm built drt a inach better plan than,^that of foraier years. Being larger, as well as moire cotti- Inodbus, the breath of the observers was not so ready to condense oil the instruments. Our transit instrument was also on a muSbh larger ibate, being'Hr thirty-six inches; while its position had been perfect- . ly verified by observations on circumpola'r start. With irespecl, however, to observations, in general, it had not been a fortunate inonthi. ^nring its northern declination, the moon had been alwayi obscured by clouds, and thus disabled us from obtaining the ustial lunar distances. We had still to hope that January would be more filvourable, as we were in an excellent state of preparation for the ii^bservations that we were desirouts' of making.. On the aurora borealn which we had so oftiM seen, nft'experiments could be made, from the state of the weather aitd the force of the winds at those times. \ * * I do hot bera- tureA, the winds, and the weather, at the same time: circuinstances to which these observations owe the better part "of their value.. With these it will be found In approximation, in the tables on this sUbjjBct. I need only herib say, thtit this instrument was regularly registered four times in the twenty-four hours; being, with some others, that which, was used in former voyages, and furnished by the^ liberality %»f the Admiraltvi The magnetic arrangemfents foN nisbed nothing worthy .of record' * In the crew, it was highly (|{itl8(actory to find that not the slightest accident had occurred from tftit frost; as, with eqikil care^ we hoped to aVoid them in future; ^h(ni|^qttite awar^hat all care was so^ie- times unavailing, since the tReire turning of an angle after a progitess through an inol^nsive temperature, might instantaneodiriy eXplose us to an unforeseen blast, to some partial or casual carrent ctf*. ai)r, wit^ an efl^ct so sudden as to be uuavoidablei while the mifierer hinoMelf is th« only one who does not know what has happiened, and, if alone^ mav therefore be irremediably froikieii< With this general good state of health, it was (Sinful to fee that the poor ariiiourer Was approaching to his^nd; being, however, ^ually conscious of the inevitable event, and prepar^ed to*meet whatiie bad for some time expected. But it was a desfiny thbt he ooidd hot long hay^ pro- tracted, thoueli he had remained at bonier pmd vk had noTeason to think that it had been accelerated kfWPinfage or the climate* ) I . <*%*>. * » n ".-v^- >T'' ■ 1".. ■^ ■». "»', TO THE ABCTlCJBf^lO0. ■■> 137 V 'The trial of^anotbe; month continued to satisfy ti# 6ftthe^'|(goda»ar of our internal arrangement^ nothing ^^d foiled, jiiid,tlxej?«rvjas nothing to alter. We .wejre eBpeciailp pnased with the success ojT the apparatus for condensing the vapour from within: the prin'cip^C^ of which/it is evident, is similar to tiiat of the condenieir in" Watt^Sv engine, difierent as the circumstances are. The proof of its e$ca.Qy« h^ ^cen ample: but I must now n6te, in correction laf (he tirst . statement respectiiSg the quantity of ice collected weekly in the tjitreo condensers, that it;'ws(3 subject to csnsiderable variations. I ' originally stated it atabout a bushel in the day, for the whole: . that being the result of our first trials, before we had fully regu- lated the production and the average of the 4ieat between decks. But in th(^. course of* these' ^ttieifipts at discovering and maintaining the best temperature, i^ was found to vacillate; the produce l^ing, in some weeks scarcely four bushels: while we easily ascferlained that the quantity increased with augmentation^of the internal*heat,- aiid Vemarkably so on the days when the wasKed^ linen was dried; as a little consideration will show to have been a necessary consequence. ' Iti this incase of the heat theiije was no advantage; and as the tern'* peraturV first adopted was found unnecessarily high for comfort or use, it was reduced to an average of 45°, while the' ice then pror duced weekly,* amounted to a mean of four bu^els or less. ^ ' / It is not all, .that the men were thus made corafortaible, and the interior, with its various materials, kept dry. Allnecessky for placing stoves in the hold and in j^mote corners ceased; an^ppivhiletbei^ was thus a great saving qr labour and inconvenighce, and not im- probably of hazard, the consumption of fuel was materially dimi- nished. Eveiy one knows that those points had engaged the atten- tion of all the former navigator in these climates; and it was, therefore, also a source of self-gn^|ation, that we had been the first to succeed, and ^that too by n^^ans as. simple and little expen- sive as they .were r^dly philosophical? That I here point out this expedient, in luture, to ships, in general, navigating the northern seas, on whatever pursuit, would be to little purpose, were it not as easy of adoptio^ as it is intelligible, without any further description than 'the genera^ one already given. 'jf- ' The school Wd continued to engage^the men's affections; and their continued inkp|^ovement both in knowledge and in religious and moral feelings, \Mis e>ident'^ It would have been valuable, even thpugl^t had found no more" than an occupation: ' and, in some ntahneif^or other, we contrived to be always occupied. The pursuit of game was indeed an unproductive; one, but it was still exercise, and it was variety; wlyle we amused ourselves with hope, in defect of hares: often traced, seldom seen, and so seldom shot, that our sporting book was nearly a blank. In some manner or other, how- ever, the last three months, constituting the whole period of dur 18 ' \ . »\- » -/■ /" .o'i. ,%^ .,^ |W^,.«v \Y' !■* V"1»s ^^ -•*"««*' 4> 138 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISOOVERY l^ f ' V* durance up ta this point, had passed away* without weariness^ and had indeed been almost unfelt; while, I may add, that we had been under no necessity of inventing any idle amusements for the pur- pose of kilting time. Those among the men who were ambitious, thought, I believe, that it had paued too quickly; since t^y fore- saw that the duties of the summer davs would retader it necessair to interrjppt the school, before they had made the progress of which th|^ were so desirous. '^'*he retrospect of the past year presented a mixed picture of good ^^nd 6vll: as if, indeed, this is not the history of human life at large. ^fThe expedition itself was at one time a thing almost beyond hope; it had b£en fitted and despatched by the spirited and l^ral ''Lon- don ^merchant," v«tiMe]name can never be forgotteii. Unexpected, and a,fterwards unavoidable and incorrigible misarrangements, had vexed J detained, and disappointed us, had filled the despondent With fears and foreboding, and "had not left evea th^ more confi^^t without anxiety. Xet the end was far better .thiin we bad hoped: it was better than any one Could have expected; sincf w&had out- stripped in distance our predecessors through the sSine strait, not- withstanding all the advantages, in time and in all eW,' whicji they iad possessed oyer us. We had been in frequent and imnunent peril, and had been rescued: yet not by efforts of our own: and thus we hoped for the future protection which we should still more labour to deserve, if, thus far' too, we had pursued the "chimera of a north-west panage," d^jtjbi^s been termed, there were hopes before U8,jf followii^g it ou|^to a much further result; of ascertaining, at Jast, this unknown^rtion of the American geography, which, I- * presume, has been Jong ^le limit of the hopes of all sensible men on this subject. We were in an advanced position, with a new summer about to givci its earliest notices in no long time; and when the period should come to sHus free, every new step would be a new discovery. ¥ If our reflections also turncAto England, it was not to regret an idle promise that we might possibly return by the new year; but we \vere disappointed that we had found no means of sending an account • of ourselves since our departure from the Danish settlement at Hol- steinborg, in July. We had met no whalers; but, considering what our course and the season had been, these ships could easily inform our friends, that not to havie met with us was no reason for doubting of our security; while all knew that we were provided with a winter home, with all indeed that our own homes could have furnished, in the wreckund the stores of the Fury. ** r- ^ f il *l \ .f ,1> 3'' f.^,, ■:>* t 8- 9 I I TO THK ARCTIC REGIOITS, % i g|»2|3?|6|a g|oH8g?|*||8 gl=;h||«s2|sr 8i_si rii "'= 5|o.g|oihs p p t> pi-si-^l° .l£l'5l°Sl ^1 5|«|l'8|l»|ls C SD i* ' < =3 P K {(» S. S. 8 SB S p P a; il«sii p, 09 01? Oo", 5 <> olio: gl=l S .^' f i'1 5. i f d! m.. •s' 'n S! S i'*^':ri^ |^|i4«|» piK|ii« |ss|il|o|o i IMlJlll • i 'I ,1 I I I I § S §%§ I S Sg q g o^|o||, SI §3 Hit S WOP a as I' o % ^i 9 1 1? 8 o c I r f lif ^ Is! s I H ,« g Sis ^ sis s 5J ' • I 8 g S SjiSi§ I I til O CD S I It ^u 5l3f . "^ ivT^'^''' ■ ^J. i/' f V ■~j^ ■ -^^= .^E. __^"' " 'r iiJ... TO THE ARCTIC REGIOtrS. ' 141 4 ''^/A. There was some snow fl|B^hc, southward, with an overcast sky; and the thermometer ros^ro minus 7°. The rocks that had been laid bare were once more covered, so that all the landscape was one indiscriminate surface of wbUe; presenting, together with the solid and craggy sea, all equally whitened by the new snow, the dreariest prospect that it is possible to conceive, while unaccom- panied by a single pircumstanc^ of the picturesque, or any thing ca- pable of exciting the smallest interest. Such it is indeed, almost every where, in this wretched country, and, above all, in winter. The voyager may be a painter, or he, may be a poet; but his talents at description will here be of no value to him; unless he has the hardihood to invent what there is not to see. Whatever may be the interest attached to the illustrations adopted in this work, it is* , easy at least to perceive that they owe nothing to the actual land- r scape; to a nature void 5f every thing to which the face of a country owes its charms. 5th. We thought there was a Visible increase of the meridian twilight yesterday; but this day was overcast and dark, though calm, and therefore mild; the average temperature being minus, 8°, and the greatest heat minus 4°. The tliickqess of the weather, increas- ing in the evening, turned out provoking; but (lid not finally prevent us from getting an occultation of^ldebaran by the mbon, tqget^ ,^with one of Capella, and some others of importance. _ It happened rthat the hares appeared in 'numners to-day, and one was ^otvS cir- ig, because, in the former expeditiopC they »iate in the season as January. The fabri- cumstance' worth noticing had never beeii' found so cation of a snow stairqase, with a wall> found ufsefiil empli^ment as well as amusement for the men, who had learne dJtfj )riae, them- selves in the beauty and perfection o( their icy i^ph^ture and masonry. V ,\ • / \ ,_^ The wind shifting to the ndrtiiward, .it becdine vftry poraTbnt the sky was brilliant with red and p urple tinis in great variety. 6th. A remeasurement of the thickness of the ice confirmed our former sus- picions; it was found to be but^our feet-and a half thick; but even this.is a greater thickness, by hAlf a foot, than had been.ibund at the same period of the year in former voyages, while the cause_was, probably, the greater shallowness of the water. Another obscure aurora made its appearance in the aenith. OniheT^following day, a brilliant sky at ten in the memioe presented an entirely dmv aspect; the space above the setting mooD being of a rich goldjei^ colour, and that near the sun's place displaying a .hnght sflvery tiiiiiAiotb i)<[ them the reverse of what is the/Usual rule in other climat JF* 8th. The wind increaied, with a snow drift; but a fine nigkt al- lowed us to inake many useful observations on transite and other matters. The sky presented the same colouring, and the thermome- ter was at minus 26°. Again, mapy of the rocks on the hills, were Cleared of their snow by the wind;; and the^Mwere employed i r ..V. '^ •A ^ ^ 4i^ .juT 142 'in) vovAQB or oi8cov£Rr IV'. tr M day u w^> yesterday in bringing gravel to the Ice, priflllltoi to the cutting x)f a canal whi^Ji we intended for the exit of ouil when the time sbould arrivcv ' M 9th. Going m shore, this morAing, one ofithe seamen informed ihe that strangers were seen from tjie observatory. I proceeded accord- ingly in the direction pointed out, and ^oon saw four Esquimau:^ near a small iceberg, not far from the land, and about a mile from the ship. They retreated behind it as soon as they perceived me; but as I approached, the whole party came-suddenly out oi^iJUfftt shelter, forming in a body of ten in front and three deep, with, fine man d^ tached, on the land side, who was apparently sitting in a sledge. 1 therefore sent back my companion for Commander Ross to join m together with some rtien, who were directed \o keep at a di8tan< behind him. Proceeditag then alone, to within a hundred yari^, ll found that each vvas armed with a sjgeai and a knife, but saw # bows and arrows. ^ , ' TV Kncjwing that the word of salutation between meeting tribes wU tima hma, 1 hailpd them in their own language, and was answerjed by a general shout of the same kind; the detached man being thpn called in front of their line. The rest of my party now coming i we, advanced to .within sixty yards, and then threw our guns aw; with the cry of ed it, of open' ' their knives shout aja withou| \v ' vanced, and ^rima; being the usual method, as we h^d learn ' j-iendly conimunicatioD. On this, they ihrjew i:s into the air in eveir dii^ction, retju-ning the Sing their arms to show that they also wfere Jut as they did not quit their places, we iad- . , -wi^d in successioa all those in the front Ihe, strbk- ing down their dress alsoj^iQd receiving from them in return ^his established ceremony of friendship. This seemed to produce grbat delight, expressed, on all hands, by laughing, and clamour, and strange ' gestures: while we immediately found ourselves established in th^ir unhesitating confidence. .' ' Commander Rom's experience was beie of great use; and, being informed that we were Europeans (Ka^lunas), they answered that they were men Innuit. Their numbers amounted to thirty-one;" ^ the eldest, called Illicta, being si»ty.five years of age, dx others ; between forty and fifty, and twenty of them between forty and twenty; the numbier being made up by four boys. Two. were la Die, ' ^ and, with the old inan, were drawn by the othel-s on sledges: one of them having lost a leg, from a bear as we uqderstood, and the otjier having a broken or diseased thigh. They were all well dressed, m €xcellent deersftins chiefljr; the upper garments double, and encif- «Jng *he body, reaching, in front, from the chin to the middle of the thigh, and having.^ cape behind to draw over the head, while the skirt hung down to the calf of the leg, in a peak not ui^e ihat » of a soldier's coat of formet; days. The sleeves covered the fingers; jind, of the two dose v^hich composed all this, the inner one had the / V ) ■ ID tlUB ARCTIC RSQIONS. HH % L y hair'lnfixt the body, and the outer one in the reVcrae direction. They had two pairs of boots on, with the hairy side of both turned inwaf-ds, and above them, trousers of deerskin, reach^g very low on the leg; while some of them had shoes outsidajC thJliy)oota,and had sealskins instead of those of. deer, in tf ' With this immense -superstructure of ch larger people than they really were, iookjpg not' much unlike a walking stick, lyory at one end, and a point of horn at the . w ■ the shafts, however, they were found to be ft 1 f of wood,' or of the bones o^ animals, joined ti ^ ^ ■ The knives that we first sa w, consisted of bone°or without point or edge, forming a very inofiensive^ei , soon discovered that each of them had, hanging at his back, a nnuch more efiective knife pointed with iron, and some also edged with that metal One of them proved also to be formed of the blade of an English claspknife, having, the maker's mark on it, which had ^ been so fixed as to be converted into a dagger. This was a proof of communication with the tribes that trade with Europeans, if that was not the case with themselves. Com- mander Ross did not indeed recognise among them any of his for- mer apqiiaintances, while he wa| evidently unknown to them; but when he mentioned the names of places in Repulse bay, they im- mediately understood him and pointed in that direction. He could also make out that they had come from th| southward, and had seen the ship the day before, that their hutrf^ere at some distance -to the northward, and that they had left them only in the morning. Having no foresight of these visiters, we^ had of course no pre- sents at hand for them, and we4herefore ^nt a man back to the' ship for thirty-one pieces of irdn hoop, that there might be a gift fi)r eac|hi individual. But in the. mean time, they consented to ac- company us on board, and we soon arrived at our snow wall. At , this they expressed no surprise; it \*as, indeed, too much like their ^own work to excite any: nor did they show any of those marks-of astonishment, at either the ship itself or the quantity of wood and iron before them^ which we had found among the northern savagea of Baffin's bay in 1818; . It was evident that they were no strangers > to even an abundacide of these materials. . • The present of the iron excited universal delight. Tn retura, \ J'^^y offered us their spears and>nives; which, to their equal aston- ishment an^/«ati8factlon, we nefHsed. We could now easily see, that • their appearance Mras very superior to bur own; being at least as • Well clothedf^d far better fed; with plump cheeks ,6f as rosya colour •Jf they could be under sodark^ skier. Like the other tribes of ' Esquimaux, their goodnatu^ed-^faWs were of a regular ovaK the . eves dark and a|)prpaching-each other, the note small, and the hair black: nor were their skins of so dark a copper tint as those which ' ) ,V • V ' ;:..■ * -'■■ * 4 p* » * 'J • 'M' ' '■^•'■JJ ■. ■- ^*' ■■'.'C ;'' . 'i' * v"' : , , J , ' ' '■ >\ ■"■.: ■J. ~ .^^ ■-, ..:_. -,l:A . ■.;;..:"', :, :\ .';■ ;:.i.V- - ■ . ' 4 ^ f r* ■ ' ■ """■ ■ ■ ■ .' ■ ■.■ ■" . , ■• :■ ■■■'**. .- A.^ ■ ■ ■. "---:: . .""'"':;"■• :' '-T^.- '■ •' ^,( - : - • \;.'.';>-(;/";'\;-;"-;;"^;^/;> ." .^^cc;-'^, ^Z -."j" ^./'., ^ .. "■ ' ■ ■ ;'"/ - . " . , ■ \ '. .■„■." '■".. "' ■V V'^^rr-::-" -r-y-y-': :..^''':^--'":;:- ^ y%i ■ . . ■'^"'^ '♦.,': ■^..yHtr.: " !^'';-.'"'''f*::0-^^""'.-*'-''-^^- .;'>.:-■." .■ .,--".. .-■= ". ''..^ -^ . ..::3!^;iln!. - ..-■ .•;►»■.• -^„, ■;..:.■-:•■-...- ,-:('-- . _ ... . , _.■,■.. . .,', .■;."-■■•..-.: i' :■;-.■,.■... --..-■ . ■"- ■ " '.'■'-." 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I45M (7 l»K.t7a-4503 ^^^ '^ '*> s. y- ', I / c:^^ -^. -^ iV ^ . nu n ti ii i ' n»i *iilgitiii$fmmr i.i ii ij i .mi, i :;. i >i i |H l .rn ii q 144 SECOND VOTAGB OF DISCOVERY ■k: ^(ff A\ F: ^ . -'^^" — I had formerly seen in the north. They seenied a cleaner people too; and, what I hiad not seen before, their hair was cui short, and arranged in no careless mannejt r "Pieir dresses were made vmh^ peculiar neatness; and some were br^limented with fringes madfe of, sinews, or with' strings of small bones. The skins of gluttons,! ermines, and gray seals, hung at the breast, seemed also to^e ornaitental appurtenances. • Their sledges were singularly rude; the sidfcs consisting of pieces of bone tied round and einclosed bv a skin, dnd the cross bars on the top being made of the fore legs of a deenT 'One of them Was but Jtwo feet bng, and fourteen inches wide, thkotltere were betwpen three and four feet in length. On the under pth^ofNtlte runner, there was a coating of ice attached to the skin, rendeHnTtheir motion very easy. Three of the men were, nfter this» intrddite<^ into the cabin, where, at length, they showed abundant signs of^^mader. The en- gravings, representing their cduntrymen, selected ft^ the several former voyages, gave themrgreat delight, as they instan%recognised them to be portraits of their own race. The looking::|^isses. as usual, were, however, the chief source of astonishment, ^wcsi: cially, was a sight of themselves in our lai^est mirror. Scar^r, surprise was excited by the lamp and the candlesticks; butCthi,, neVer'once showed a desire to po^yess themselves of any thingKre- ceivii^, merely, what was offered, with signs o^thankfulness th^ could not be mistaken. They did not reUsh our preserved meat^ but one who ate a morsel seemed to do it as a matter of obedience, saying it was very good, but admitting, on being cross questioned by Commander Ross, that he had said what was not true; on which, all the rest, on receiving permission, threw away what they had taken. But the same man, on being offered some oil, drank it with much satisfaction, admitting that it was really good. Thus admira- bly are the tastes of all these tribes adapted to their compulsory food, and their views of happiniesa. to the means of it which have been provided; nor, assuredly, had these men, amidst their blubber and their ,oiI, their dirty diet and villainous smells, any reaison to envy the refined tables of the south; as among those, they woul^ not only have experienced disgust, but felt pity for our barbarism and iggbrance; while if they had been induced" to partake, it could have been only under the impulse of starvation. In succession, three more were treated in the same manner, while the first set proceeded to amuse the rest with what they had seen. A short race was also run between one of them and an officer of our party».but with so much and such equal politeness on both rides, that there was no victor to be declared. The\ violin being after- wards produced, they joined our men in dancin 5; and thus «||^med, whether it was the fact or not, to have a muc 1 greater relish for music than had generally been found among th^ other tribes by our predecessors. ■^!^ / - * ere was a TQ Tif B Al^TIC REGIONS. 145 It being now necessary t< separate, we proposed to accompany them part of the way to t leir huts, the direction of which they ppinted out; making us und irst^nd that their wives, children, dogs, and sledges, were all at hone, and th^t they had abundance of pro- visions. Puring our walk \ 'g^ met a seal hole on tWe ice, and they showed lis the use of the sp< ar in enlarging it for the reception of a ^wig of ash or birch, togeth sj^with their metM of throwing that Weapon. But we could nol make out by such inquiries, what was of chief importance to us, oapiely, the direction of any ppen sea. They, indeed, jointed to the jjort.h arbeing the prace in question; but •not being able Ut understand from them what lay to tj^e southward and westward, wie were oblig ed to defer further questions to another day. Having proceeded abo it two miles, we now made a mark on tho ice as the place of rendc zvous on the following day, when they were m^^ to Understand ths t we should visit their huts: a proposal wb'ich was received with the highest satisfaction. We parted under the same ceremonies which h id attended our meeting. , ^ This was a most satisfactor f day; for we had given up allwexpec- tations of meeting inhabitants in thi» place; wfiile we knew that it was to the natives that we inilst look for such geographical informa. ■ tion as would assist us in/extBicatine ourselves from our difficulties . And in pursuing our co^se. id was for philosopherf to interest them- lielves in speculating oa a horde so s(nall, and so secluded, occupying /so apparently hopeless a country, soi barren, so wild, and so repul- sive; and yet enjoyingth^t most perfect vigour, the most well-fed health, and all else that here donstitutes, not merely wealth, but the opulence of lujuary; since thejj were as atnply furnished with pro- visions, as "with every othdr thfcg that cbuldXbe necessary to their wants. And if the moralist isliclined to speculate on the nature ind distribution of happiness irithi^ world, on the admirable adap-* ^ion found, hero as elsevvhere, between the desires and the means of graH^iQation, the fious one willl not forget the Hand, which, under vthe most apparently hopeless tircumstances, thus spreadji^iir His creatur^ a table in the wilderaess. JV^ - \ 10uld not too much multiply.. On inquinJ^Btvere inform-' ed that they were abiindant; and we had,'«Hlfe, the pros- pect/of a new amusement, as well as of aiVftluSble market at \the mere price of our/ labour. They now offered us, in return our presents, any ihing which we might choose; and we ac- c.and were delighted with the identity of the representa> tion w^ii the^ketch was fibished; each recognising his own house. It being then ^ijhne to think of returning, many of the people offered to accompany i|0, and we toolcUeaye of the women and children; in* viting the lame man to come oik the following day, that he might be examined by our surgeoii. EighVof the men attended us to the ship,, and while six were turiied over wthe care of the seamen, we in- vited the two leaders to our owrt^cVbin dinner. Much astonishment was of course^xcit^d by the knives, plates, and other furniture of the table; ahdV their taste was not improved since the day before, while it had prdluibly, then, only been taken by surprise* they ^t fealt relished the soup, and, with scarcely any , awkwardness, inoMj^diatelj^^rHM the >use of the 8poon.\They were at feast^^OocT mimic8|lii!!Sil| after oWrving our proceedings for a little while, thfy equally^ found out (he management of the knife and fork, shortly using these as if theV had been long accus- tomed to them. They seemed now to relish \he preserved meat; as t^y did some salmon, more naturally: but tney did not like the salt nteat, and equally rejected pudding, rice, anil cheese. Having • dined, they desired to rise, and we attended thenk forward to their companions, who had been equally well treated by me sailors; when we found them all dancing t(^ether\ - \ As we were returning to the ship With them, beforevthese adven- tures, a very cold blast of wind came^ dpwn a valley, when one of them observed that the frost had ^ized one of myNcheeks, on which he immediately made a snowball and rubbed it,\thu8''cer- tainly saving me from a disagreeable wre, at least. AfterUhis, he continued always near me, frequeiitly\ reminding me to put mf hand to the same part, for fear of a reciirrence'of the attack.\ This was good natured, and aided, with all else, to give us a favourable impression of these people: while they al| shared the same dis^i- tions, in aiding to carry our 'things, as if th^y could not do too muC to oblige us. \ \ llth. The morning was clear, but cold, w^th the thermometer at minus 35°; while, expecting our new friends, we did not go out. At one o'clock the man who had lost his leg, whpse name was Tullua- hiu, arrived, with another, very intelligent native, called Tiagashu, drawing him on a sledge. On examining the stump, the surgeon found it a sound one, long healed, while, the knee being bent, there was no difficulty in applying a wooden leg. ^he carpenter was •\ \ ' iv V r ' \ TO THB ARCTIC RBGIOITS. 149 \ tnere^(^rej^entfoif4cj measure him; whWe, antidpating the purpose, he expressed the grsatest delight. As they seemed nov^ to be un« usually coinmuoica;t ve, the chart was produced; when it appeared "that they wtere acqi lainted with eyery place between Igloolik and Repulse bay, or wit i their names ai. leasts and with those of some of the inhabitants. IVhen Ackoolee was mentioned and pointed out in the chart, they i mmediately recfwnised their own position and that of the ship. '/ *^ One of them, Tu liiahiu, theiTlook the pencil and drew the line by which they came, afterwards making spots on it, and counting their fingers to show that it^ey had slept only nihe times on the journey. Tiagafthu then drew a line of cbast round which we coufd sail in the autumn; this being in a westerly direction^ and includii^g several capes, bays, and rivers; while, on it, were drawn sevem islands, in one of which he placed a lake; during which demonstra- tion he further pointed out where salmon and other fish abounded. 'After thb, his draught of the coast took a northerly direction^ con- siderably beyond our present position, and not less to the westward of it; while his estiniate of the distance was two days; adding, that hereralso there were rivers running iqtd the sea. The first man then resumed the pencil, and drew several lai^e lakes in that part of the country where We were now fixed; further noting places where we should find natives, and drawing a route bjr which he could gi^over land to the salt water in nine days. They, however, told us that one of their party was a much better eec^irapber thah themselves, and»promised that we should see -him. This philos^hicftl discussiO^ being ^t an end, they informed us that ' eighteen d'lheir inen had ^one out to kill seals, but that it' was tojo cold for the\Women and children: and we then amused them till dinner time pith the engravings in the preceding voyages. They seemed to recognise all the names, as if they had, at least, heard df the persons mei^tioned, though th(ey had not seen them; and, had we knowd^ their lankuage batter, weXshould doubtles^ have found th^t t|)9 Science of , i^ng acutMiiited with whatever may discredit on^s neighbours is ^s well ut^l^y^ood hei^ as in an English country tomi; arjr to be very near neighbours to^be ^. ^^^alicibos as possible. I should be very glad to find, that in this i^onj^cture, I had done our new friends in- {'ustice: about our own at hpm^ it would be far more desirable to«> le proved in the wrong. \ \\ \ In our cabin, the snuffers i(MrWed a great object of attraction; but still more eflfect was produ£iea\by a large reading-glass, through which, when held between th^\n, each saw his friend's face mag- nified beyond all understanding. Such are the delights of novelty, and thus does the curiosity of pureigiMuranceeVer fiiid new gratifications. But we who, here, know every thmg, knowing even what we hav« not seen or learned, have contrive^Vo ge^d of these pleasures; it ^' \ J - »' A't' TT '■ \ ■»i \. ) • ^1 1 \' - / ) -• ^ It { IfiO SBOOITD VOYAOB Of DnoOTAT. is even to be feared that the "ichoohnaster abroad will ahortlj find his place a mere sinecare; so universally does knowledge seize, ' even on Jbose who do not take the trouble to pursue it. It is almost a pvoverb, that there is no royal road to science; but a road as brief as royalty could have desired, without beinjg able to command it, has been found by those to whom the privileges of knowledge cease to be odious whenever they can themselves exert those. * Fortunatelv, thus far, for our new Quests, there was no penny science, in this land of little light, to interfere with their admi- ration; it was absolute, as that of their countrymen had been the day before: though one bad effect at least of their ignorance was displayed in their abhorrence of plum pudding, with which we had Viamly hoped to regale stoinachs accustomed to find blubber a sweet- meat, and train oil preferable to maraschino. This, indeed, w^^d not to give them; but our brandy was as odious as oar puddis^ and they have yet, therefore, to acquire, the taste which has, in ruining the morals, hastened the extemiiriation of their* American neigh- bours to the southward. If, however* these tribes must finally dis- appear, as seems their fate, it is at least better that they should die gradually by the force of rum, than that they should be exter- minated in masses by the fire and the sword of Spanish conquest; since there is at least some pleasure, such as it is, in the mean time, while there is also a voluntary, if sbw suicide^ in exchange for murder and misery. Is it not the fate of the savage and the Jin- dvilized on this earth to give wi^^ to the more cunning and she better informed, t(^ knowledge rfnd civilizatioik| It is the order of the world, and the right one: nor will all the^ lamentations of a \nawkish philanthropy, with its more absurd or censurable efforts, avail one jot against an order of things as wise as ij^s, assuredly, established. AH which it is our duty to provide fc^Rb, that this event bp not hastened by oppresnon and wrong, that it may not be attennd by the su&ring of individuals. But a.mid these depresmve reflections, tfaiti'iime came to end our entertainment and send our company homcs;i4ie carriage, such as it was, bdng in waiting. We explained that the new leg would be ready in three days, when we hoped for the pleasure of trying it on; and then, presenting them each with one of the empty meat cunisteri, they took their departure in high glee. It is delightful to be able to overwhelm the needy with gold; n0t less so, I imaging, when it is done at no cost; and here we had made these poor men as rich and as happy, with what was little better than an old sauce- pan, in if our canisters had been made of silver, and i^iiere to be purchased with gold. 'Let no man imagine that he knows what a present is worth, till he has found what happiness can be produced by a blue bead, a yeltow button, a il^le, or a piece of an oM iron hoop. / / ^■ TO THE ABCno RCOIOink shortly find edee seize, e it It u nee; but a ing able to rivllkges of elves exert 151 , A very cold breeze prevented vu fro^ escorting them on their journey,. as we had intended. We did nothing else on this day, but remove some sjnall stores out of the way, lest they should tempt these hitherto honest people, and thus make us guilty of teaching them a vice to which they appeared strangers: a vice common among all savages, and too much so, even in some of this race, as we are assured by the experience of many navigators. / II DO penny their admi- id been the orance was ich wehad ler a sweet- led, w^^d iddis^and , in ruining lean neiefap finally dis- r should die 1 be exter- I conquest; meantime, change for nd the Jin- ig and me he order of ations of a ible efforts, assuredly, I, that this may not be t ' 'u to end our ;e, such as leg would of trying it npty meat I delightful I imaging, e poor men 1 old sauce- ^re to be >W8 what a e produced an old iron \ A :r ■•.--■1 ■vf ' "\* ^i iggfefe^y^ ■'T^-'-^.T'-Jja-i^^ti a ar^ jEHtw. ^ ' irf to^ -«.« Tafe'a--\--- ->.->■ -^ ^ ■■ Vt^^fe^frgtTKag-ntfiajt MiJSii t ^^ e Mtlh^^ 163 S]XX>ND VOYAOB or DISCOVERY CHAPTER XVn. i', r i. i f jReceive more geographical information from one of the natives called Ikmallik— Continue our communications with them—Pur^ mercuru Jreezes at length, at minus 89°— 7%e first sunrise of the year— Death of the armourer— End of the month, and summary. 1 -:_I Jan. 12th. The promised hydrographer, Ikmallik, came to us this morning, accompanied iHT-Tiagashu, and they were taken into the cabin; six others who attended them being turned over to the care of the men. The first information which we received was, that they had killed several seals on the day before, at the seal holes: the method being, as many readers perhaps already know, to trans- fix them by the spear, when the agitation of thewgnal twig that is placed in the hole of the ice, shows that they have come up to breathe. Thus is the cunning of even the lowest of mankind an overmatch for the wisdom of the wisest animal: though neither our friends of this country nor the animal which they outwit, aVe to be ranked in the extremes of these classes. , \ Some paper containing a sketch of the land already known be- tween Repulse bay «nd Prince Regent's inlet, wa> now laid hetot^ them, with the names of the different places marked. These werd at once recognised: and Ikmallik then taking the pencil, proceeded \ to prolong the sketch from Akullee, following very nearly, for a very considerable space, the line already traced by Tulluahiu. After this, he prolonged it still fur Aer westward, instead of turning, to the north, as the latter had done; then continuing it to the northwest, in a direction more favourable to our views. He did not, however, insert the islands; nor could we discover how many days it was es- timated from the end of his chart to Akullee near Repulse bay; but I^e drew Wager bay and its river very correctly, making also seve- ral other rivers. He further gave us to understand that our ship could sail tha^ way till the autumn; and with^this information we were obliged, for the present, to be content We sbowe^our new friends the engravings of the natives who had been known and^^rawn in the preceding voyages, being those which had been displayed to our first visiters; repeating their names ■-4 f ,'.-■■ . ■■ V . ■ , . ' I ♦ ■ • ' " " V \ \ - • \ i t% , -^^.r^.^.^.*,^^' ~ -^ «« •as '^ .1 r J ^ ' "-" '',fc •^ — -'-'^- - "i;*^ ?f-v ■ iiK«r TO THB JMftlO RBOIOU.Wx; 153 -I t€. ...4 at the same time. The names were recognfeed as before: but both of them expressed surprise at the difierence of aspect and style be- tween those persons and themselves; while, bujt for the beards, they were inclined to believe them portraits of women. This leadef, Ik- mallik, was a strong, active man^ >bout five. feet ten inches high; being the parago^ of the party^ ipl indeed* among these tribesju. a . man of unusual power and stature. The same presents^ sent them all home, happy and thankful. ' \3th. A thermometer at minus S5P made this a real]j|Mc6ld day; but the wipd was not such as to preVent usjrom ^performing the promise.^e had made, to accompany the natives on a seakhunting es:pedition. We met them accordingly, about half way from their vilia^ge, unarmed; and they turocd back quite delighted -Ivhen told that we meant to proceed to their huts. .A sharp breeze then springing up against us, the danger of being frost J^itten became con- siderable; on which they all undertook to watcK U8f;.:{^^ng notice whenever it was necessary to apply our hands to any part m our faces that were in danger of suffering, that we might ruK^them for restoring the circulation. ' \ The women had k)5t much of their timidity, on this -our second visit: and finding that the seal-hunting* party was absent, we enter- ed Tulluahiu's hut, where we met a kind reception fropi his mo- ther, wife, daughter, and two young children, forming his apparent; family. A complete- female dress nad heeh made ready as a pre- senffor me; being of the materials and construction already de- scribed, with an appearance of unusual care in aidjusting the symme- try of the skins, so that the colours Should correspond On each side'; while there was sL fringe below, and a border of white round the hood and the openin|s for the arm^ I bad no doubt that itf was a first-fate specimen of mantua-making; and it was my busine^ to es- timate it as a London lady woutd have dtarmigans in thje morning, but it was , in vafn ihat we triied to start tbem-again on ouA-eturn. ' lilh. The' thermometer fell from itfstatiob of minus 33° last even* , ing, to 38°; and as the breeze made it very and the rest were left in charge of the 'mate. The wooden-leg was then fitted, to ascertain whether the ^ length was correct; and as it had, after this, to be finished* the man '< for whom it had been made was desired to return on the following day. A i-e-exairiination of the chart added little to our previous in- ibrmatioiy; but what we could conclude wai^ that there yVM a great bay between AkuUee and this place, and that if there was any open- ing to the westward, it must be a very narrow one. That they knew ^hat it was to delineate land, wat evident, ° because theV drew the lakes near Repulse bay very accurately, t<^ether with the places of severaPinlets and nvera on the coast, both to the southward and westward. They had heard of the sea • houses of the other Esquimanx, but had. not seen them; and |hence, while we concluded that they had never been on the east coastr^ \f,e inferred that^his tribe does not travel out of the limits of thiil^ . bay, though we could not.yec be sure of the nature of their mode . of life and migrations. • . . •'*' Desiring to go at one o'clock, the rest of the party were called 'from below, and we were^'entertained to find that the mate' had prevailed on 4he elderly dame to -have her by r cut, and combed, and arranged; the result making such an advantageous change in her appearance, that all of them desired to.undergo the same ope- rations. This was an unusual display of ambition and Wste among these tribes; making me r^et that I had not provided myself with ' It stock of combs, as presents; blif*nie^ring of beads which I gave to each of the women was probably of iKbre value in their eyes, if of far less use. \ * 15th. We tried some mercury known to ibe pure, and it froze. This was the.te8t'H>f a tempera%re of 30° nfttus; and as the ther- momeHlr by which we were nowthsecvin^ stobd at the aame^nark, ,1 ' ^ J ■^:- \ \ TO THE AKCTlO tKaiOWS. 10ft I we were satisfied with its acfcnracy, as t&r at this point at least. It fell nfterwardt to 40°, being hitherto, our lowest degree. The n>e. ridional horizon was less clear than usual, so that we derivcdggnuch less advantage from the sun'S noonday twilight. The two men of - yesterday came alone; it was understood that the rest had gone to bunt for seaU. The promised legrbeing now complete, was fitted on; and thSre was little time lost in finding its use and value; as the disabled person soon began to strut about the cabin, in apparent ecstacy; with more reason certainly to be delighted 'with his present,;^ than all the others united, with what they had received. All the surgery of this case lay indeed with the carpenter; not tlje Worst ppeca4or, I believe, in this compound profession; but I doubt if any cHbrt of surgery ever gave more satisfaction^than we had thus conferred, in reproducing^ man fully serviceable odcemore to liinT' self and his community. The gratitude, however, in this case, took a veryaniusing course, et, though somewhat ludicrous (o us, it was natural in them, who lad no reasons to doubt their own ii)e(^cinal knowledge; while the, only mediqal superiority that we had ^# displayed, consisting in a greater cofaimand of limber and tools chiefly, was not such as to render ihen) suspicions of their bwn powers. But whatever the vanity might be, th& gpoir will was. unquestionable. The poor ar^ mourer, they saw, wuVwoi^ to a^'skeleton; and as Otookin was'iiir. Angekok, or conjuror;; Md physician in one, 4h6y proposed to apply their charms towards tBb cure of our fast-wasting patient. It is true enought that diseases can be conjured out of a man's body, or -inind,a8 is miofe likely; and that were it not for the power of con- juration, physic would want its right hand, even in London, abound- ing in other successtul Angekoks than the several bold quacks, who, ' eacfi in his own departmentTheals all the diseases of his own pecu- liar set of gulte/Bbt oiir poor man's case was too berious to permit our countenfliKing such trifling as this; and the proposition was therefore passed by, till it was forgotten amid the other objects of «ttrac%i by which the attention o£ our new friends was so %lly occupii^. . ^ The 1^ was inscribed with fhe name of the ship, and jpacked up in the slcqge, as it was not yet sufficiently familiar for a journey of two miles through iqs and snow. That we parted better frioidr than ever, cannot be doubted. We learned to«day that TuUuahui had a brother who was engaged with a party further north, whom he intended shortly to join fof the purpose or hunting the musk ox; that there was excjellent salmon fibbing in spring and summer, and that there were abo laige fish in the lakes; while-he further inform* ed us, that they were toltontinue for the present in this place, as they bad taken many seMs the day before. We ri^retted to have ascertained, that under the same- language, their dialect difi^ed > cnuch fitomtbe vocabularies in th^ books, and aho fi^m the Daniah f: •■■■t'J ■^. iiii 156 SECOND VOTAGB OF DISCOVERT /> i.i .'". l-i/-/ dictionary of the Esquimaux tongue which we- possessed. We had therefore an Interest in studying it seriously, since it was likely to be our chief future source of information: and,4n this pursuit, Comman- > der Ross, very naturally, proved the most apt scholar. 10(A. Three natives came on board to-day, reporting that they had killed six seals the day before. Tiagashu, the son of the old man of ttie tribe, isras amongst the*knost intelligent that we had con- versed with; but neither of them, after inspecting the chart, added any thing new to our4>reviou8 information. They were amused, as these people , though^hey should even take no more at this time. The presents were repeated, as before, to those who bad not received any; and • two of tne number were pleaSied to get rid of then: beards under the hands of^ the mate. ' The rising of a smart wind under this tem- perature', made us invite them to remain for thfe night; but though two were wiHing to stay, the rest had appointed a s^l hifnt, and . they all departed. ISth. There was to-day a violent storm of drift snow, since the wind of the morning soob rose to a gale; and it was consequently. so thick at noon> that we could not see the sun, on which we had cal- < culat^. The thermometer, however, rose to 32° in the course of the day, and, at .nine at night, was but minus 9°. It was a dayisf absolute imprisonment, of course. The wind was muth less severe on the following day, having been from the north- westward, with the ba'rometer at S^° or thereabouts. - ^ It did Dof> therefore, prevent the visit of our friends, as the pre* ceding one had unquestionably done; three men and (wo boys anriv- ^ i^ing earlv in the foreno(an> and remaining with us a few hours; after V which they departed, with the usual eratidcations. The first fraud attempted on us occurred to-day, biu it was a sufficiently perdon- j^f able one. A boy begged a canistpr for his mother, whose husband =# \ 4 A ' -^ , J TO TBB ARCTIC HEOIOlfS. 157 conspicaous as we found, bad already received one; but the detection of tbis scheme only occasioned merriment among them: a result which we experienced on many occasions afterwards. One of the men was distinguished by a row of foxes' teeth in his hair, and seemed espe- cially intelligent. It occurred to me to-day „tbat Vve might, by tak- ing a couple of bc^s into the ship, contrive to teach them English, and also, by aid of the books furnished by the minister at Holstein- boi^, enable them to learn the art of reading and writing their own language. Thus, should we succeed, they might be rendered of essential i^se hereafter; and I therefore concluded on making the proposal at the first opportunity. \ 20> .] My readers are probably tired of the names of ijien who can haVe no peculiar interest for them, and whom, like the writers of Indian his,tory, (if these persons would but /ecoUect it, which, unfortunately, they have never yet done^, we ckin distinguish by nothing to make one hard word remembered in preference to another. Wor can it much interest any one, who was the wife,son,nephew,granddaughter, or betrothed, of whom, when the-wedding 4ay was fixed, or what were the politics, gossipings, squabbles, friendships, or parties, in this septentrional city. Much, therefore, which we learned, I mj de- cline to record: I much doubt if it could e^[ertain even the female ancients of an English villisge: as universal knowledge "progresses," a new interest will attach to a r^ion so robbed m its "natural rights? by nature herself, and a newspaper will, t>f icourse, apjiroximate this frozen and furred people to the greatfrat^rnity of mankind. It wi|s much more important than all that I midit have here told of the yet dormant Morning Post of this ill-used|country, to find that the wooden leg had enabled our friend to attend the seal^ hipt: but as the philosophy of our worthy carpenter, Chimham Thomas, had contrived « more fitting foot to it, for walking on snow, and that tjbe said foot was in progress to completion, he was appointed to come fbr it on the following day. | They departed not k>ng after noon; and the remainder of the pibo- ple's time was employed in digging the armourerVi jra y e. Toihe Sjpfeasional in this task, there is, in this, nothing: to a^l!S%all ci«el^, utualiy dependent, and separated from all the world^it would have been a painful office, since it was almost that of the parent or brother who digs the grave of his deafest relation, on a deAprt island,^iM>t knowing when his own turn may come to claim the same service from -those who remain; but our long convictron of the inevitable event had bhinted those feelings and wearied those reflections. The task, however, was executed in silence, at leai^; and it was not for any of as to inquire of the feelings of those who were employe^ in this painful office. The sun was really brflliaQt at iiomi» and condderably elevated: ,B> t '•^as ;*.. i^'«»)f* "fB^'-*! ■ ■ 'ii "^i" m TO tBE ABCnO BMIOVS. 159 it was a regaling sight; ^hile it also gave a promise that could not be broken, the promisej of increasing in brightness and duratimi everyday. This is ind<|ed a sunrise, though more in promise than performance, to v^hichjall ther^spleii^^ur of morning suns m a southern climate is as nothing. It is an ever welceme luminary, undouhtcdiy, ^rhen it first announces day,' to all at Jeast whom an artificial lire has not corrupted: it is' welcome even to them, should chance a£G>rd 4hem the means of seeing the morning's rise. But it is a far other mornibg to those who nave been deprived of the sight of the glorious sun for weeks, who. have se,en little more than a prolonged evening for months. Its rise .seems a new life; and though it has here finished its iiilmost momentary career before we can well say, it is here^here is the certainty of a better to-morrow, the assurance that summer is to come, aqd that it is now truly ap< proaching. The twenty-second of January was the finest day that we had seen for a long time; an^ though the temperature was at minus S5^ it was so calm that the cold was little felt The owner of the new leg cane to us with a large party, including a flock of boy» from five to thirteen years of age: and the new foot, being ready, promised so well, that we could scaacely pr^ent' him from return- ing immediately, that he might try its powers. The magnitude of the benefit seemed indeed to overwhelm both himself and IJs friends: and we felt, of course, cai^nter and all, the fuU triumph of superior civilization; as the people themselves evident^ admitted that we were a more cunning' itice than they, though we could not equalljT harpoon seals at an ice hole, nor eat iplrus flesh stewed in train oiL Thus much for the useful aris. Navigators have often missed that acknowledgment of superiority which the? ejzpecte^in the estima- tation of savage nations, by furnishing them with objects of pure luxury; and when, finding their error or not, they have desired to do better, they have forgotten that new wants cannot be formed in a moment,,nor old habits broken in half a day, by a bottle of porter and a beefsteak, or an uncomfortable pair of breeches: that custom alone, were vanity of no account, causes the savage to estimate his own cbthing, or the want of any, at a much higMr rate than all which even a Stult^ could produce, to value and cling to his own modes of life, and his own food, repulsive as it may be to ourselves, far beyond all that can be oflered m exchange. A wiser politician would measure the mind first, and, to that, adapt his attempts at beneficence or improvement But it is very unreasonable to expect that all men should be wise; and most unreasonable of all, to expect this in improvers and inventors. I wm not, therefore, note tlw errors of well-meaning men, to whose plans I need only allude, oB this subject; but I am sure that the simple contrivance of thfa wooden leg, miwd^ h^^hcr in the estimation of this people, than I ■"'ft I ■-■*r'' • * i I 160 all the jwondere ^v SEOOITD VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT ail luo r"w..«w.» we had Bhown thein, and, undoubtedly, far higher than thfe superiof- attainments of all kinds, belonging to us, which they, co&ld not abpreciate. . /, , . • e It W^s not pcJlitic to exhibit all our wonders at the beginning ot our adduairitanbe; and having therefore reserved something for a further display, the apparatus for instantaneous light. Which was now produced/ excited, in the phraseology .of our day of cant phrases, a string sensation. The interior of a watch seemed mpre than incomprJh^sible; and we seemed in great danger of being re- put^ amongftheVonjurors; our bettees in philosophy had acljuired the.s^me reiutatipn, but too often a very serious one for them, in agMtiot far fremoVed, and amid more light, it must be hoped, than irradiated the mentol climate of a tribe of Esquimaux. Inthi^mfean tim^ three willow partridges were brought in>y my hephe^ we hadVo' chosen that any of the natives should go with him/i^£ing as y« unwilling that they should know the effect of our wc^ns. The\game was however examined by them very minutelysTiSd they expressed a great desire to knoW the nature and opertiti6n\of the ^uns; questions which, for the present, w^ contrived to\vkde m linintelligible explanations. The compara- tive m^surements off their statures excited much interest among them, and th(5r ^^"^ exceedingly clamorous at finding that there was onfe who lideasUred but four feet ten inches, since two of them were five feetteight inch^ high. Their departure left us, once inore,/to our uaial^ptcupsttions for our owp comfort and future We had ahother visitW men ^d Boys. One of the former ^rom NeitchilUje, and had Indian rather than* Esquimaux fea- This place,\o the south-west, they estimated at nine days' f of a sledg6i\we suppbs^ it might be a hundred and fifty The e%0U of the maghet were the chief novelty shown thi^ day. TheexWfetion of snel|»dragon, as it is called, produced als6 great surprise; Specially iW the conjurer, who rewarded usTwith one of his c residence. The tame lax uofbrtunatel^ died, frW having got access to a specfm^n of ttjs willow partridge,. in the preparation of which arsenic had been used; thus|C{yasing us a doul ble loss. . .» A j I 26th. Another party came on board, ^nd among them, a woman with an infant at her Back. She vrks hideously tattooed all over the ^ce; and her portrait, like ib»tr qf many others, was drawn. Bet husband was! a stranger J belonging to some south* ern tribe, and knew the-inmes for C(»pper and bras^ whereas, with the,^present people, thje name of iron applied to all. The presents iWhich we made to these also, did not prevent the disap- pearance of a pair of snufiers; though \^e could not ascertain who the culprit was. 28th. Fifteen of the Esquiinaux arrived to-day, witl^some cloth- ing to sell; and they thought themselves amply rewarded in receiv- ing a knife for each. To put a check on their troublesoii^ familiar- ity, I admitted only four into the ship; two of our former friends, with their wive& 7o prevent temptation also, all the portable ar- ticles which were outside of the ship, having been placed on\^ ice for convenience, \jfere brou^ on board; while some oien wd^e ap- pointed to watch, in case of any attempts at pilfering. .Even y^ith- out the^ Case of the snufiers, we Had no right to expect absolute honest^ among this tribe above all othenq and,- at smy rate, w^re bound to expose them to no temptations. After their departure we took our w|lk, a^d found a raven feeding oo a hare ^hich we had ' probably wounded to death in some of our excursions. The temperaA ture was at 34° mimls. 27th. Another set of visiters brought two moredreases, which we purchased at the same price, together with a searM^ valued at a piece of an iron hoop. We had, of course, the troiiblb oC^he usual office of showmen: but to our further inquiries about Neitchillee the only answer we could get was, that there was a large river, with plenty of fish. They had taken more seals during ame days past, ai^d were to proceed with this hunting, ' 28th. The temcKerature rose, and the sun was^felt to have some power this day. Fo^rteen Esquimaux came alongside, including five women who had not^seen the ship before: and we had again, of courst;, to go through all the ceremonial of showing wonders and making presents: thus, however, increasing our collection of por- traits. A female fox was taken id a trap, in a 'state of extrMpe starvation: displaying corresponding voracity when meat was pro> duced. It served to replace the former. Another, in the same con- dition, wtirtaueht on the following day: and the unfortunate solitary raven, approaching the ship, was shot It bad been a companion of our stay all the winter, nncl deserved to have been spared. ^ In other days, or in minds more deeply tinctured with poetry or superstitioa* 81 ' w .is#. .«*• 163 SECOHD VOYAGB pF OISOOVBRY ^l I know not vhat mental misery might not have followed an act bo ■acrilegioug. ^ 30th. Proceeding to the Esquimaux Village, we met the wooden- legged man coming alone towards the ship, with a present of an ar- row, and with the intention of informing us that Otookiu was sick.. We found him with a swelled face; and it was settled that he should come to the ship,, on the next day,, for remedies. We were kindly received by the women,' and purchased some small articles. The thermomet^er this day was at minus 30°, and some transits were ob- tained. 3Is/. Thii month ended with a very fine day. Half the village arrived while we were engaged in our church service; Otookiu, with the swelled face, being among them. He received his medicines, and then was sent on shore to remain with the rest till we should have concluded. On comingl>ut, we found that most of them had gone away; and we then dismissed some others, from whom we pur- chased the deer-skins which they hiad brought. We found, from the three men admitted, that the women had departed under the suppo- sition that they should be refused entrance into the ship: and as these [>erpetual crowds were really inconvenient, we took this opportu- nity of settling that only five or uj( at one time were to come in ^ture. ^e learned that they had found a\ bear, torpid in its den, and had -* it with their knives. We offeied to buy it of them, and they ed. to bring it on the follo consisting df the head of' an owl, with some ermine skinl The temperature was minus 25P> and .the day so cloudy that none of the expected occultations in Tfturus oould 1>e observed, nw any ol the moon-culminating stars. > 2ntL It did not become cksat* ^11' ti^ moon had passed TaurusJ and there was nothing more to )>e observed; a mortification suffi- ciently common with astronomers. The Esquimaux brought some more skins, which we bought; but not the bean we had reason to 8usp<^t that this promise was not about to be kept. ' But we had now something more to discuss with them: and the event was to show that they w^re not diose examples of absolute honesty, which we had at first/supposed, if much less inclined to stealing than most savages have proved. And whatever excuses navigators have made for these races, from the strength of the temptation when iron has been the subject of theft, they do not, I fear, apply here, where the objects stolen could be of no use, if indeed I except the. snuffers; though, in fact, even these, iron as they might be, were not likely to be of much service, though the hammer might be applied to some purposes. A large reading-lens had disappeared for some day^ and I had reason, on consideration, to suspect the conjurer Otookiu; the can<- die having gone out, for some time, in the cabin, after I Imd been exhibiting its effects to him. This was confirm^ afterwards, by his unwillingness to admit me into his house at my last visit to the village. I therefore told him that the swelled face had been pro- duced by the magical glass, and that it must be returned. His con- fession immediately followed, together with a promise to bring it back on the following day: without which, I assured him that his '^iiiv V TO TBB ABono WBOIOirS. 165 other cheek woald sweH in the same manner. It vtaa brought back accordingly, together with a hammer which had disappeared; while the snuffers were admitted, to be in ^he posseaaioo of one of the women, together with a glass out of my spectacles, which oae of the children had fwind^ on its having dropped out. The terror of the conjurer was indeed so great, that he brought back a hook and a harpoon head which I had given him in exchange for a bow; on which, to preserve this probably useful ufipreasion of terror, I. agreed to a re-exchange. ?\ ; 3d. On the preceding ^a^ "trie observed a transit of the moon, and had many observations of slars on this one; the weather being un- usually clear. The thermometer was iirst as low as 38" minus, and it afterwards fell to 40°. I'he Esquimaux brought nothing but a part of the bear's skin; but we'^purchased a reindeer skin from them. The spectacle glass was ret\)rned,*and the bearer rewarded with a tin canister, as this had not beep a true theft. The snuffers also were produced; and it was then expbined, that if any thing should here- after be lost, none of the natives would be suffered to come On board any more. Nor would we admit any of them at this time, that we might give a tangible proof of oiv resolution, and of our firnm^s in adhering to it. 4(A. The temperature sank to minus 42^ but the day was clear and calm, so that the cold was not severe on shore. Some natives came, and sold us some dresses, together with the ornament made of teeth. Eight seals had l^n taken by them in the last two days. They brought a small pwrt of the bear, saying that they could get no more. A few retumjiid on the fc^wing day, and, among the rest, a woman with a nursling, whom she took, out of her bag, and exposed naked to the slir, ai the breast, with the thermometer at minus 4(P. / . > fith. It rose to 32° t»day> the weather continuii^ calm and fine. The whole thirty-one Esquimaux came; and as two had not yet seen the ship, they were because he had tal cal glass. I promi days; and they agrf they succeeded in mitted. The conjurer was in great distress no seah) attributwg his ill luck to the magi- that ^ enchantment diould cease> in two to bring us a seal on the,ibllowii^ day, if king one. On cutting through die ice, which we had begun to dlo the day before, it was finind to be six feet thick; beings im rease of twenty inches wiUiin the last month, and givii^ a greate tluckness, by a foot and a half, than at the cor- responding season e ; Port Bowen in 1825. Ith. The cold in< reased on this Sqnday, falling in the afternoon to minus 43°. Of fii een Esquimaux that caafe dongside, some were adnutted after chuich, and sold us some excellent skins. On the' fdlowiog day they] brought us three more,^d informed us diat their d^ baftAmei a bear on the ice, which woidd be at their houses on thaTvllt'^y. We proposed to purchase it, together with *.*! V ' «k . F .,%. ; . ■.;T..J| tee siwoiro voTAdB or dhcovkrt it a seal. The wipd changed veryoften in the course of thia daj, and ^ the thermometeif rose to minus 30°. dth. It fell again to 42*^, and (his weather was very cold to the feelings. Nevertheless we proceeded to the village, in company with bur principal friends, who had come for us; liieeting with the usual kind reception: but as neither bear nor seal had yet arrived, pur labour was thus far lost. In returning against the wind, the cold was very sevcTre; yet we visited the cairn which had been erected for one extremity of a trigonometrical base, where also we had made experiments on the velocity of sound at these low tem- peratures which I shall have occasion to note hereafter. In the eveningi the thermometer sank to minus 45". We estimated on this day, the tenth of February, that it must have sunk to 48°: but, at this point, our instrument was uncertain. , The Esquimaux arrived, with some faces much frost-bitten, selling us the skin of n young bear and some other articles. They informed us that the expected bear had not jet arrived. 11th. There was an aurora seen; but not so marked in character as to deqerve descrip- tion. On the following day, tliey brought more things for sale; the wooden-le^ed man ano bringing a thimble and a needle which one of the natives had either found or stolen; for which he was rewarded by a sail-needle. j 12lh. The thermometer rose four degrees, but the cold was never- theless very severe, as indeed could not fdil; since a difference of twenty,^ or even of forty degrees, Iniay say, at such a temperature as this, produces little dilfereqce to the feelings. Some Esquimaux Vomen brought gloves {(fiflt other thii^ for sale, returning at noon, without coming on board. It was calm at nighty ^lind the ther- mometer fell, to rainu9 46^ On the following day, more women, with some boys, came to sell other articles, and all were bought; a man also bringing his seal spear and harpoon, for which hfe received his price. >% 14th. The sun had considerable power to ships . formerly at ^loolik. 16th. The barometer rose to 30° 79', without any apparent reasini, as the we^tlier was not so fine as it had been for some days past The teppetature vacillated upwards, till it reached 38° jminus. A native i^me in the morning to say that they had been unsuccessful in catching seals; and three others, in the evening, confirmed the Mune \ f^- X TO THS AROTIO MSOIOirS. 167 ■;?'«■ tale. Some of the officers ^ent to the village, but did not procure on^. A male fox wag caught in the trap. nth. The sky was overcast, with some drift snow, and the ther- mometer rose to minus IG**.' We bought some articles brought by the natives, but did not suffer them to come on boards But this was not the only purpoee of their visit; since there tvas a general restora- tion, as we understood, of alt other things which they had purloin^; a'n^ong' which, a table knife from the mateV mess had alone been missed. With this there was a piece of iron, another of an iron hoop, and a sheave of a block. The cause of this repentance and restora- tion was, we found, to be attributed to the guns which had been ^ fired for the purpose of the experiments on soUnd. - One of them ^i _,_. having' attended Commander Uoss to the observatory, and having asked what the "guns said,'' was informed that they were naming the thieves who bad taken our property, of whatever nature, from the'ship; on which there was a genieral convocation held at the vil- lage, and it/ was agreed to f eturn every thing. We had to regret », that we poaeased no such powers of conjuration over the much less pardonable thieves of our own dear native land: among its other advantages, the "march" of knowkdge has deprived the good of , this power also, over the evil ones of this world. Wha^tithe rela- tive gain and loss may be it is not here my business to discuss; but let us recollect, at least, that it is not all gain. At any rate, we here made use of the advantages still in our power^ and therefore did not lose the opportunity of confirming them in their good inten- tions to "steal no more;" informing them consequently that this was the cause of their late ill success in seal hunting. The failure of this chace, with which we had 'become acquainted, was a piece of knowledge,of which, like many much less pardonable conjurors, we ' .. took this justifiable advantage. . The temperature rose as high as ihinus 0°, an4, the ^average of the day was 12°; the wind being from that which wab always the ^ warmest quarter; north-easterly. The natives brought the long ^promised 4eal at last; but it was so mutilated as to be fit only for the d(^. They desired also some remedies for one of the women, who had been taken Jll. The surgeon therefore went to visit her, in the sledge, draWn by six dogs; and having prescribed for a cough and cold, returned Vt nieht . , 10(A. The first fall of snow for ibis year was to-day, and the tem- perature rose to minus 7°. Some native women came, with trifling articles for sale, and were much gratified by the sight of a sledge of our own construction: this being machinery much more withm thei^comprehension than ,wbat they had generally seen with us, and thus, I doubt not, giving them a noore rational idea of oNfr ^«uperiority, 2(Hh. The snow did not last a second day, an<| the wea- > ther was cloudy and mild. A female fox was taken in the trap, and • vrh had thus the rnean^ of procuring a breed, if we cboae. Some -s- <- ! » Iff.. 168 tmoom WIMOM or DtBOOVSRY *- fi. i> H Eaquimaax arrivedi and it was lucky for our denunciatlail^ that those who had restored the stolen property had been success/iil in the seal hunting. But ^Heir faihiHes were so much in want, that they could not spare us atfy of their capture '^ ilM. This was the finest arid the wdrmevt day that had yet oc- curred since November. It was catih, and the thermometer con-> tinued risipg till it reached zero ^ midnight. It may surprise an English .reader to hear of a warm day at a temperature of 32° under the freezing point, but the temperaticrrc of sensutioif is more relative than is imagined, and the body soon contrives to. find a ncW and much lower scale of comfortable or endurslble heat. The nativei arrived, at length, and, with a seal of middling 'iri^, for which thej received the promised reward of a woman's knife. This is the ustMl knife of the leather-cutters, being a semicircular blade; ftMd it in used by iheta for the same purposes as a butcher's knife is with us: the reserved duty of cutting up the seab beingthe privilege, or tor- vice, be it Whichever it may, of the fair sex. They were put under charge of the .watch duHng divine service; as we were determined „ that this should never be interrupted while we had the means of performing it, We had now learned to part, without the usual noisy and troublespme ceremonies. _ aSnrf. The temperature, to^ay, ranged between mibus^ 1** and ; 2°: in other respects, it wiptaild. Many hares were teen; but ffiey had been so often chaipir that they were now unapproachable. ^ Some nnore skin diresses^ere, bought to-day. On the following, with ^ a ck>udy sky, the thermometer rose tootie degree plus, apd rested tif' *■■" minus 5". Among other articles bought this day, wa|^l|^ skin of a glutton; and as it had been taken in a trap the day before, ^ proceeded to construct one, in hopes of a similar prey* A seal was also brought in .the evenidg, and a ptarmigan was killed. This was the first day, for & long time, that we had both breakfasted and dined by daylight. /«. ; 24th, It was a fine day, though overcast, with a temperature generally about min^s 5°. A fine hare was shot and the new trap finished and s^. More skjfns were purchased; j||ybj^||we,werp in a fair way to get an ampleglupply of- clothing ^^|t^H|^^ The^y;* heat fell to niinus 16° pnTOe following day.. JH^HHp^P* pHNP^ duced each a female prisoner, one of which MHHHP^^KiUve. We also bought some sealskin jackets from tb^ natives. •. ,2(ith. The weathor was much colder, though the fall of the ther- mometerdid not exceed £ve d^rees. Tbe natives broil|bt another uiiof a glutton; caught also but tbe dfty before, with tbreg more * '** ' ckets.. A kiiife was the estalHisbed price of all such' ar- ietberfthere was any hdiday among them, or whether it take^js a tribute of gratitude, Ikmallik, the geographer, i, ^ugbt bM^ for tbe pufpose of 4reatii^ u« with a dance. ' were noteless than twenty. Tlw dance was more like an • ( ■i-r ] ^1 f(P*** -^v ,K ^^i- m X:% fitodORA VOYAOK or DIflOOVBRT fsrimentll^sound'made. Of our communicatioDB with the natives' have nothing more to remark; except that we hacTcome to a per- fect •understanding respectiiig the price of each article of sale which they brought. Their pilf(Smg8, there was reason to hope, were at ^n eftd: but it was certain that they considered these acts no vast crime* since the detectim generally produced Ifiughter. , f / ■ •: f' , 1 ,.... • ■ •'-*> T ■■• "*>r" * • ••" ' » «y f '»'>-WMt— ••►■■^■>^.~-~'-".. t^*4. , TO THB AUCTIO RBOIOIf S. 171 CHAPTER XIX. Purchase of dogs from the nativat— Commander Rots departs on «r expedition to the native huU, for infomation-'Process of bmlding snow huts-'Summttry df the mMh of March. March W. It was an eitreively cold moroing, but, to the feelingB more than to'the^li^eniionLeteifi^ Two of the natiTe» arriving, I ac cortpanied them in a wrilk, where they pointed out a better place for a trap to catch the gliktton; it being in a pasB which they use m going to the northward. . Wne of them was persuaded to sell one of his best d<«8: which was warranted for keeping at bay a bear or a musk ox, f<ttircha8ed for a knife. As nothing else was offiired for sale, wtt concluded that they had parted with all their disposable articles! / ^ , ' ^ _ 2nd. Another dog wais bought this day, to complete our team: I could not venture to byy more at present, lest we should not be able- to feed them. They brought ua an account of the death of the old man vThom we had remarked at our first meeting. W^ had not seen him since that dfy; and, on inquuy when at the village, were informed he was aslefep; though he was not in the hut then pomted out, as we ascertained, virhile there was one shut up. The solution of whatever iitysterV there bight be in this matter, was necessarily deferred. / , . , ;. j * j ' 3d. The natives brought us a fine remdeer skin; and promised an- other seal. Haay wea&er continuing, y^evented lall observations. The following day fcvas colder, becaii^ therttn^as more wind; but in- cluding both, the temperature ranged between minus 24° and 88°. A bear-skin was birought; and we underatood that two parties were about to be detached, one to the northwai:d, aAd the olher^astward od the ice, for thfpurpose of. catching stiab, ^ut that they wouM soon return to Wtch for the animals nvhicU were then expected to be migrating from the Bouthvrard. . \ I 6tk. There wis litUe change in the weathier. Two women came to inform us thatthe rest had all gone to build tome huts further t© the eastward, oh the ice, near the isbuid that ^as in sight; and that • '^•sls'* / ITS SEOOirO VOTAGG or DieOOVERV they were to^^oin them in the evening. The distance, therefort, could not be great. The dead man was said to be out fifteen miles to the northward. Com- mander Ross went in the sledge, about the same distance, to the south-westward; and though he could see land all round, he could not determine whether or not it was continuous; although the coast seemed entirely skirted with islands. Some natives came in a sledge, and brought us some very acceptable smoked salmon. lOtA. The temperature rose to minus 12° in the course of the day; and the tides were as irregular as usual. Two sets of the natives arrived from their different new estttblishments, bringing us a good doe and two seals, which we bought, with some shoes and other ar- ticles; treating them, in addition, with a good dinner. Two of them built us a snow hut for our instrumients, and consented to remain all night, if we would return with them in the morning. They had killed thirteen seals, and were amply stored with provisions. A good supper for tl)em followed the good dinner; but when it was time for rest, although there was^a good bed for each, one waked while the other slept. Whether this was suspicion or ceremony, we could not discover. Our school seemed to surprise them even as much as the kaleidoscope. IKA. The thermometer ranged from 14° to 82** minus, being TO THE A'RCTIO RBGIOITS. 178 coldeV than it had heen for some days; .hut the iweather was very fine. We found that when it had become very late in the morning, both our visiters had consented to fall asleep: perhaps their suspi- cions were quieted. Their breakfast, consisting of five or six pounds of seal each, seemed a highly satisfactory one to them: we had judged as incautiously in measuring theiir appetite as their tastes^bj our own: but a special larder was admitted to be necessary, if we were to give dintier parties. The nine'cooks of Prince Talleyrand would scarcely, with all their art and means, have prepared a dm- ner for nine Esquimaux, capable of influencing their poltHcs or di- plomacy. In return, however, for this luxurious breakfast, they cdmpleted the snow hut for^ur observatory: while the neatne^ of "the workmanship was the least part of the merit, since, excludii^ perfectly the annoyance of wind or cold air, it was sufficiently transparent to allow us to read off the instruments. " ^ At ten. Commander Ross went away in our sledge, drawn by a team of six good dogs, in company with Ikmallik, the geographer. A parly <^ our own men were sent out to erect more cairns for our trigonometrical operations. Some of the natives arrived to fetch away the other man, Nulungiak, who, on coming upon deck;, took up a loaded gun, which went ofi" in hii hands; luckily doing no mis- chief, but giving him such a fright, that he was little likely to touch a gun a^in for some time. 12 having found it in a solid state. Some natives came to-day from the ^ northern party; bringing two seals With a dog in place of one tliat we Jiad returned. A* dinner, which, after such journeys, had /be- come a sort of indispensable civility, sent them home very happy. -~-^— A disagreeable accident happened on board, to one of the Ichil- dren of this party. Being in the habit of licking their dbhea and other utensils, as well as each other^s faces, the creature applied his tongue to the iron hoop on a cask, and was not released wilthout leaving the skin behind. We found the meat of the. musk ox/ to be very good beef, and without the musky flavour, which may p<^ibly occur only at a particular season. Vj^h seven dc^s accustortted to this chace, we had thus a prospect of oHng able hereafter ip sup- ply our crew with a proportion of A^h provisions. \ 4f I5th. The weather became so much milder, that the thei^mome- -^ ter rose to minus 1-5''. A lai^e party of natives came on board, and nine of them remained to dinner. A better dog was brt>ught, in lieu of one that bad been returned; and we found that they had taketx five seals. 1 6lh. The temperatu re fell again to minus 38" on the .. ^ following day, and we received another visit from a party which •« brought us a small seal, a sledge made of the bones and skin of the\ musk ox, and some boots and gloves. We heard also that there \9h^ ■ a. new party of Esquimaux about two days' journey from us to the , . southward. ink. The men under Commander Ross had been employed for some time in measuring a base for the trigonometrical operations; . ' ' ■ and this, work was still going on, in spite of the cold, which to-day was minus 40°. Some of the natives arrived, with the boy Kawalua, an orphan,* and the nephew of the gec^rapher Ikmallik. It was he that I had marked out as the most fitting to be taken on board and instructed; and- he therefore remained, on the return of the others, commencing his attendance at the school on the same evening. IQth. It being a fine day, (Commander Ross took a journey in the s1e{lge about thirty miles tol the southward, returning in the even- "^ ing; and having taken the Esquimaux boy with him, he received ' much informatiom By his aocoui t, they had reached half the way, to Neitchille, and it was not, t^ereibre, so far off as we had imagined; i „ while his information respecting plf^ces agreed so well with what we had heard before, as to assure' us of his accuracy. He also TO THE ARCTIC RBOIORS. ..^_-!ii? 175 i*iiutrament , described a place where they were obliged to cross, in their caDoes* a stream of salt water that was Always flowing to the eastward, and which, could never be passed in any other manner. As this was not more than a two days' journey, by his account, we hoped .^'soon to be able to explore it, and ascertain the nature of this strait atidcurrent. He savt, in this excursion, the tracks of a glutton aJjiof a reindeer, but no living animal In the course ^ the day. anc our friends brought us a fine seal and its young one. In my own walk, I found the tracks of hares and foxes in much greater num- ber than formerly; and two> ravens from the northward flew over the ship. 19th. The natives brought only trifles this day, and we allowed the boy to go back with them, under a promise of his retuiDing w its own marter. We ,^,^buld now easily treat them with bmled seal, and thus could always affi>rd to give them dinner. 22nd. Uk the day, the thermometer riose as high as minus BP, sink- ing to 28° at night Two women brdught '^k thg absent dog, but were sent home for a swivel which was missing from the harness. A little snow fell on the folk>wii^ day, and the heat rose to V plus. The swivel was returned, and a party from the other station brought us a seal, which was bought for an old file, being the article now in demand. We attempted to clear away the snow from our bowa^ but the water came up and obliged us to'desist. 84/A. The temperature rpse to plus 16°, and it was thus, a mild day: the mean qf the twenty-four hours being 1^ plus. Parties from ' each of the new stations arrived, and a stray dog was brought back. ■ A dinner was repaid by the national song and danc& A breeze - from the north, mi the fpllowing day, tewered the temperature to I^us 5°, and made it cold to the feefingi Together with a party rised at their dexterity;''one man having closed in his roof Within brty-five minutes. A tent is scarcely pitched .sooner than a house is here built; • The whole process is perhaps worth describing. Having ascer- tained, by the rod used in examining seal holes, whether the snow is sufficiently deep and solid, they level the intended spot by a wooden shovel, leaving beneath a solid mass of snow not less than three feet thick. Commencing then in the centre of the intended circle, which is ten feet or* more in diameter, different wedge- shaped blocks are cut out, about two feet long, and a foot thick at the outer part; then trimming them accurately by the knife, they proceed upwards, until the courses, gradually inclining inwards, ter- minate in a perfect dome'. The door being cut out from the inside, before it is quite closed, serves to supply the upper materials. In the mean time the women are employed in stuffing the Joints with mow, and the boys in c^structing kennels for the dogs. The fay- -: '■ ~: ■ ■ ' V , 4 ^v TO THB ARCnO REOIORS. 177 ing the snow s6fit \vith skins, and the insertion of the ice \4rindow,/ copiplete the vidrk; the passage only remaining to he added, as/ it is after the house is finbhed, together with some smaller huts for stores. Some of th^ children, in the mean time, were aping^their parents in a toy architecture of- their own. One, whose hand had been bitten' by a dog, was taken on boaf d to the surgeon; and live supplied them with water, to save them the trouble of thawing for themselves. The summary of the month of March, now ended, does not present much variety. The minimum temperature had been minus 40°, the highest plus 20°; the mean being minus 20°, and thus one degree greater than-thatof the former voyages, as formerly compared. The . . ice was dissolving, though slowly, on the south side of the ship, and the rocks were bared of snow by the sun. Our trade with the natives had produced a good stock of clothing an^ skins; and having got rid of two of our own dogs, which were useless, we had purchased eight new ones, thus having a' good team ■ of ten. The information acquired respecting NeitchUlee^ led us to' think that a passage westward must exist there; the moi'e detailed account of the Ofitives being, that there is really a strait to the northward of it, conimunicating with a sea ix> the westward, and presenting a strong eilterljr current In this channel also they men« tioned some islands, called by them Shag-a-voke, lugnifying strong _ stream; further saying, that the waves m this plaice often broke ^ very highi Besides aU this, theyjlescribed anQth|r channel to the "^northward, by which the ship could go. better anto an open sea where no land was to be seen. Though now on terms of entire con- fidence, the intended pupil bad not been persuaded to remain, nor ' could we obtain any substitute. He had not returned after his first departure on what we had believed a' mere holiday or leave of ab- sence. The lane of gravel on the ice, intended, through the action of the sun. on it, to thaw a channel for us, before it would naturally break up, had been finished; and the dogs and sledges were in good training and order. All our internal arrangements continued satis- ; factory, and all were in perfect health. Game had been very scarce;' ^ .the four foxes constituted our chief captures. The highest tide had ' been tix feet; the mean of the barometer 30 inches. The triangulation had proceeded: but the observations in this month, respecting occultations by the moon, wiere not more success- ful than formerly. It was alwayd cloudy at those times. Some tran- sits and lupar distances were of value. It is lastly worthy of remark, be it explained as it may, if indeed it be a steady fact, which we do not yet know, that all the coldest days occurred near the time of the full moon, and a little after, and that the temperature was high- est immediately after the change. |4 »^ ■}■ b 1^' .'04. H 178 SECOWD VOTAGB OF MSCOYKBT CHAPTER XX. Proceedings to the tenth ^ April— Journey and narrative of Commander April IH. TaGRB was snow, with a mucb lower temperature and a cold breeze. « The natives came to us from all their quarters; and Awack, the future guide to Neitctrillee, was especially welcome. The nearest party had been unsuccessful in seal hunting. The next day was like the summer to the feelin^^s, and the thermometer rose to plus 22°. The Esquimaux were stul ^unsuccessful, and be^n to fear they should be short of provinons, Seeing the sextant in use for an obseiWtion,Jthey were very desirous to know if it related to seals, and if we saw any. The sun was sufficient to dr^ the washed clothes, and the melt«i snow was every where flowing in water down the rocks. Sd* A seal was brought* and exchai«ed for a file; but there was stilt a failure of tl^s hunt. In proof of the effect of external heat on our arrangements within, the quantity of ice in the condensers, this week, was btit two bushels. It was A few d^rees colder than yesterday: but it now became necessary to build a snow wall round the pillar to which the thermometer was attaw them to impede us in our usual duties. Among them, Awack and Ooblooria, the two promised guides, came with the$r sledges, d<^ and provisions; and -all the former information was confirmed. Our own preparation for the joumev had been com- 51eted, and the officers that were to accompany tnem were ready, 'heijijiermometer f<^ll to minus €P at night, fi^ The weather was cloudy, with a mbderate breeze^ which, l)e- ing frbm the north-eastward, was favpnrable for travelling. Com- mand^ Ross, with the chief miate, B|uiky, and the two E^uimaux, departed at ten, on two sledges, with ten days' provjsions: but the thermometer falling to minus 4°, yre were concerned that their de- parture had not been delayed.-Stul more unfortunately, snow began to fall at one o'clock* andriy evaiin^, there was a gale of wind* ' ■ ,-■■■■" ■- '• ' ^ ' ■'■■/■■ *c TO THE AKOnO fUMIOITS. 179 ■^. which we feared- would arrert them entirely. Our consolation was, ^ that our two officers had with them the most experienced and active of the Esquimaux guides, and that they would therefore be housed in good time. The natives fi*om tiie eastward brought us a fine seal, and we were thus enabled ta afford some assistance to Tiagashu's family, which seemed to be in want. 6th. It continued to blow fresh, with snow, shifting from the north- yrard to the eastward; yet the thermometer became plus 21° at noon: while, in thp evening, it went round to the south. A blue light was hoisted, and a signal rocket thrown up, to indicate the ship's place to the travellers. At night, the wind moderated a little. 1th. This morning was again stormy, with drift and falling snow; hut, towards evening, it became calm and clear. The same signals were then repeated, though we hoped the party would have reached Neitchillee. Some of our neighbours came to beg food; and as their huts were knwvn to be «mpity, we supplied them with some seal's flesh. The next day was still snowy, but calm at first, folk>wed by variable winds in the course o( the altemoon. Mine Esquimaux came for meat, of which we fortunately had some still remaming; and they were wa hungry that they devoured the seal's flesh raw; not, how- ever, forgetting to take some home to their families. The men were now making various preparations ob board for the summer: the sig- nals were repeated ut night 9th. The snow, was still worse, and the drift ohscHred every thing; "the wind finally settling in a heavy gale from the south-westward. The rocket was repeated at night, and at the hour agreed on, namo- ly, ten o'clock; attention to the ship's place being first secured by a blue light: rince, by this method, the longitude of the expedition could be ascertained through the chronometer. The Esquimaux came but brought nothing. One of our foxes escaped, and probably fell into their hands. The thermometer sank to nnnUs 13°. 10th. The gale decreased, and it became moderate by nine. At five in the evening our par^ returned, after a very laborious jour- ' ney, and much suffering from the cold, but without any serious acci- ddk They had seen the sea to the westward, and were confident that we were now on the coast of America. The channel of which we had heard as leading to the sea, vrasstiH, however, uncertaiin there being two inlets a little to the northward of our harbour, with apparently equal claims as yet, while it might also exist in what ha* been termed Cresswell bay, in latitude 72° 30'. But the narrative of Commander Ross must be given in his own words. _-iE:~'' " '.Vis^r, , ..w^;»-'ywTiM9w#»»*' -^ ■■ ^-^^^iomsimr ^ -wre^ 180 SECOND VOTAOll Or DISOOVBRT CHAPT^ XXI. / * Narrative of Camtndnder Itoss. '* , April 5th. ^be morning was far from proving favourab1|l for our journey, as it snowed hard, and there was a fresh iy)r|l^»^ wind: my guides, indeed, disliked the look of the weather so tr^Ch, that they were Very desirous of deferring the expedition to aAbtb^r day. 1 still hop9d> however, that it would improve; and as I \was anxious to reach the spot which we had been looking to with so much desire and intef (est, i*e at length prevailed on them, ing the damage. On that account, and because of the gale, wnich it was now impossible to face should we have desired to return, the guides began to build a snow hut; a project which we did not ^t>ll approve of, could any means of proceeding be discovered. '^'Mr. Blanky, therefore, suggested the possibility of mending their sledge by mear^s of thdr spearsj but as I knew that they would not consent to this surrender of their weapons, I broke them both, without ask- ing any questions, into lengths fit for the purpose. As might have been expected, this was followed by a sudden burst of united surprise and anger; but on assuring them that I would give them two much better spears as soon as we should return to the ship, they became pacified, and set about the work with the utmost good nature. / TO THB ARCTIC HBGIOWS. 161 Hfor our tfOiy wrad: n^lch, that btb§r day. IS anxious uch desire t Bi;c in the }, together a bag^ge ch, heavier o keep up ir sledges, ry often to etiially oc- ; the shore, the driving party, lost sledge bro- our ioiir- of repair- ale, vrhich return, the 1 not ft all Bred. 'Mr. leir sledge lot consent ithout ask- light- have id surprise tviro much >y became ture. Having succeeded in this, we set off once more, m spite of the snow and the gale, but found ourselves even more hampered than we had expected; since, in addition to these extreme annoyance?, we had the ill fortune to fall in with a considerable tract of rough an^ hummocky ice. ThUoccupied us during two hours of severe labour, when we once more contrived to reach the mamland. The guidM, however, were now completely at fault, as they could not see twenty yards before them, from the thick drifting of the snow storm; so that we were obliged to give\ip all further attempts for the prgsent, a^d to consent to their building a snow hut. This was completed in half an hour; and certamly never did we feel better pleased with this kind of architecture, which, m so very short a time, produced for us a dwelling, affording a shelter at least, as perfect as we could have obtained within thp best house of stone. It was, indeed, barely large enough to hold our party of four; but m thewretched plight that we now were, even a worse accommoda- tion than this would have been most acceptable. Our clothoi were so penetrated by the fine snow dust, and frozen so hard, that we could not take them off for a lone4ime, and not till the warmth of our bodies had begun to softpiHliem. We also suffered exceedmgly from thirst; so that whileihe Esquimaux were busied with the ar- rangements of their building, we were employed in melting snow by the aid of a spirit lamp. The quantity which ^e thus produced in a short time, was sufficienttor the whole party: while the delight of our guides was only equalled by their surprise; since, with them, the same operation is the work of three or four hours, performed as it is, in stone vessels, over their open oil lamps. v a * «u There was, however, an attendant evil, owing chiefly to the ex^ ceeding smallness of our hut. Its walls naturally melted also; and go fast, that our dresses became soon wetted to such a degree, that we were compelled to take them off and get into the fur bags.^tlere at length we could keep out this enemy, and in those we slept I have already said, that we travelled along the mainland during thd whole of thU day; but as the density of the snow drift prevented me from seeing objects, at any time, more than a quarter of a mile off, I was unable to form even a tolerably correct idea of the direc- tion in which we had travelled. I beKevc, nevertheless, that the distance did not exceed twenty miles. This, however, had Mcupied us during eight or nine hours, notwithstanding the rapidity with which we had performed th^ftrst part of the journey; and so many hours of exposure to labour atSUold, together with the severe exer- tions that we had undergone airihQg the rough ice, had very com- pletely )^ired us all. . X ji 6lh. We had, in return, the advantage of sleepmg most soundly; and might not have awoke very soon, had it not been for a mutiny and rebellion which broke out among the dogs. They had nd them- selves of their traces and got loose? while, never being over fed. I-' A '■■■?" ^.. IM iraOOWD VOTAOB OF DIflOOVERY and at that time, doabtless, tolerably hungry, they had attadked the Bledge of Awack, for the pvrpose of devouring the frozen fish of which it vras constructed, unless, indeed, they preferred the hides of the mysk ox by which thcs^ were bound together. The owner soon ran to the rescue; and as the damage was only commenced, the repairs were neither velry difficult nor tedious. We had, indeed, but too much time ofiour hands for Ibis work; as the inclemency of fthe weather rendei^it impooible to proceed. This Teisure enabled us to have a good deal of conversation with our new friends who being i\pvr at their ease, ,and free from the apprehensi^ which they had at first entertained, began to im- prove very much in our estimatioii: displaying, in particular, far more acuteness and intelligence than we could have expected to find under countenances so heavy, and physiognomies so dull. What was of most importance, however, to us, was the information which they afforded respecting the' nature of the coast, and the ocean to the westward; the latter of which they represented to be of great extent. For the first time, alio, they now spoke of an island, which they called Oo^eoo-lik and where, ia the summer, as they informed us* we should see great numbers of Esquimaux; naming particularly, among those, a man who 'was^'described as lame, and a woman called Kablalla, who was spdcen of as a personage of great im- portance among them, and giving nie, J[isr liddition, the name of her husband and children, together with those of many more of her kindred. " They described the place termed Oo^eoo-Iik as very distant; saying also that it required many days' journey across the salt water, to reach it. This confirmed thiSr prevfous account of the extent of the sea to the westward; but I could not at this time con- trive to make them understand my wishes to go there.} 1 was there- fore obliged to content myself with listeniAg to the anecdotes which they related aboatrtheir people, and to answer, as well as I could, the several questions whicl^they asked me about the Esquimaux whom I had seen at Igloolik^ whose concerns they seemM to take , a very lively interest Their principal questions, however, related, to the manner of hunting among those people, to their amusements, and to their sing- ing; and they were ajso curious to know whether I had seen the «yn|ent, for this daj'dTdetentkMD. I was abo xAtHgtA to repeat frequently tiie names of the^'ai^kdcs»" ■1^. ■ 1 attacjked rozen fish the hides 'he owner enced, the d, indeed, emency of fttion with from the in to im- icular, far ited to find II. What ion which . ocean to i of great rhich they formed us, rticniariy, a woman great im- ne of her >re of her r c ry distant; 8 the salt ant of the I timei con- was there- Dtes which s I could, ^uimaux ed to take manner of their sing- I seen the [ had for- ivith those enouffh of ther ihad said: all of thei% was tention. I u^koks»" TO TnC AMonO EBOIORSi l«t to .,i-^*- with those of their wives and children, as it was their desire member those; for which they laboured by frequent repetition. They seemed greatly amused to hear that so/toany of them had two wives; adding, also, that they knew a inan to the westward who was thus doubly provided, having brought them from Repulse bay. From this I should have concluded that the Wactice of biga- -rov was very rare nmone the present tribe; but we afterwards^ound abundant reason to recall this conclusion. - We were much more interested, however, m hearing them relate the circumstances which had brought them, td thU part of tje coast, and to our immediate neighbourhood. Two of their people had been fishing to the northward, at aeplace called Ow-weet-tee-week, and there saw the ship beset by th^ ice and carried >ast to the south- ward; this being, us well id I could conjfecture, on the second or third of September. Being much alarmed in consequence, ther immedTatelysetofftojoin the main body of their tribe at Nci-tyel. le, where they remained tilhthe arrival of a woman called Ka-ke- kas-iu. This person liad a sister who was one among the party that had been with us at Winter island, in the forrter voyage to this part of the world; and from her, they received, so enticuig an account of the reception which the latter had met with from us on that occasion, that they Came to the resolution of going to seek us, ^ wherever th© Victory might chance to have been brought up. This they accordingly did; and our companuMis now described to us their sen«tk)ns at the first sight of our footmarks in the snow. _^,^^ their ^tonishment at the size of the prints, and the consultation which was held, to determine whether they should proceed or not Th6 ckquence of Ka-ke-kag-iU, however, overcame all their fears; and th^ now repeated to us the delight which they had felt when, aaer drawing up in a Une to receive us, they had seen ns throw away our arms. . x. • *• During all this time their oratory did not interrupt their eating; for this U an occupation never neglected, as long as there is any thing to eat; nor could all our experience^inong this gluttonous race diminish the perpetually recurring surprise that we feltjit the persistence of their appetites, the capacity of their stomachs, and the energy of their digestive powerf. To say that they ate thus from hunger, or even from appetite, cannot be true: no human being, governed by the instinct of appetite alone, could feel such wante, in whatever way nature contrives to dispoie of the enormous supesAuity. No animal, however carnivorous and voracious, acta thus: the very glutton itself, in spite of iU reputation, or of Jhe truth of its name, if trutfr it be, fills itself and is jatisfied.^ Man alone eats from pure wantoniness; that he may gratify his taste, not satUfy his hunger; % indeed, this is not also the fr#quent^eflfect of the principle of avarice or appropriation. This it is, to be « ra- • tionalbdng; but, as in inany other casof^ and worse ones, it » to ^■A: \ I ^■^"'rK -V .--•.•.■>->»«w«!.JtTO ' S'- ,™Ji»»l!i**«">«>- :.L Mi ^ .^ H « w A.^r*' i K : '■■■'* . Yi i'k.!<^ ;"i. -71' ■ i ' 8es so to be, the most evil* animal in creation. ■*" The provisions in question were, however, consumed sooner than they would have desired; for their stock was small, in consequence of the division which .they too opade of them among their frieifds, before we came away from the ship. It was therefore fortunate, ' yet for other and better reasons, that the weather soon ^ began to clear, and thus gave our guides a speedy prospect of replacing their larder. -.In consequence of this, I obtained some observations for de- :., termiriii% our position, and for^tbe angles required for my intended survey. " 'The latitude of our present position was 69° 44' 2(y', and the lon- gitude 0° 44' 6" w^^of the ship. The hut v^as buiit on the south shore of an inlet almit three miles long, lying on a west-south-west line. On each side, the land presented high and rugged shores of granite; and a considerable river entered on that w'hich.was oppo- site to us, at' about the distance of. half a mile. . The name which our natives gave to this, wa|'3Vng-ma-look-took,- and they described ^it as abounding in fish, in tttsumtner time. The name of^tl^ inlet in the language of the counl^, is Too-nood-lead, and it is tubs dis- tingubhed in the chart which I drew up^ • ^ ' On my return from a rising ground to which I had gone for the purpose of obtaining better ideas of our situation and of .the coast in general, I found the i:wa guides Aw^ck and Ooblooria busily em- ployed in loading their sledge, and was equally surprised and dis- pleased to find that they were preparing to return to the place that -we had left, to obtain a fresh supply of every thing, and especially of provisions, since they had eaten up every thing, danraged their sledge, and broken their spears' for the purpose of repairing it: while without these latter, they had no means of procufing pro- visions. There was nothing left for me, to prevent them from putting this provoking resolution into practice, but to trick them into abandon- - ing this scheme; since it is not very easy to reason with- a man's stomach; above all, with that of an Esquimaux; apid, as in truth, it was not very easy to |>roduce any good reasons against such ar- guments as these. A question of tfa^ir own geography would not have weighed with them, when pufr into competition with a dinner of seal and a drink of oil; and how could I expect that our pursuits of this kind, which must really have seemed abundantly purpose- lees to them, and whichM>erbap8, may not seem of any vast importance to persons of very difierent information, were to influence them, when put into the balance against the' lightest wisbe» or caprices of their own? ^ " ^ To carry my object, I therefore engaged them apart in conversa- tioD, while Mr. Uanky selected some of the best pieces of aeaVt^^y^ It TO TBC ARCTIC REGI0R9. 185 I them; to • animal in oner than nsequence ir frieifda, fortunate, , began to cing their ons for de< f intended * id the Ion- the Eouth louth-west 1 shores of was oppo- ime which described f^tl^ inlet i tlnis dis- 16 for the .the coast busily em- id and dis- ■ place that especially iged their pairing it: Bring pro- utting this > abandon- \i- a man's 18 in truth, t such ar- would not h a dinner ir pursuits ypurpose- mportance nee them, r caprices conversa- s of sears^^/ fliesh in our possession, part of a considerablie provinon that we had made for the dogs, and' wrapped them up in a -piece of canvass. 1 then informed them that I should proceed to Nei-|jrel-le without them, that they would thus lose the promised reward, and that I had moreover plenty of meat in my possession, as they could now see. Gn this, they consented to go on, and we were therefore soon on our road again towards our original destination. After crossing a neck of land, about three miles broad, and occu- pied by two small lakes, which, as we were infdrmed,.were well stocked with fish, w6 again descended upon the salt water ice, which the guides described as belonging to the head of a maritime inlet to which they gave the name of Tar-rio-nit-yoke. The meanine of this phrase, however,' is, 'y them Shag-a-voke, whjch means "it runs fast;" there being pro- >ably some great accumulation from the interior fresh waters and snow during the thaw; so as to cause a rush through a nairtovr open- ing, at one part of the year, sufficient to have given rise to this de- scriptive appellation. ' We halted on a small islet in the nprth.west corner of this bay, where we found Tul-lo-ack*s c^noe covered with stones, having been buried in this manner to preserve the timbers from rotting; while the skin covering had also been taken off, for the same reason. The wood itself, they had procured, as they informed us, Very far to th9 westward,'Sn the neighbourhood of Oo-geoo-lik. From this place we now continued our course directly intand; ascending the bed of a river, and passing several narrow lakes; tte- veiling Uirough deep snow for the space of four or five miles. Our pn«ress was necessarily, therefore, very slow, until we reached tbd banks of the furthest one, to which they gave the name of Ty-sha^- ge-wuck, and which they described as abounding in three *^*-''- -' trout. I here shot two grouse which had allowed me to i them sufficiently near to render my aim certain: to the etjfluil sur- prise and delight of our guides, who had never before witoeswd the effect of fire-arms. Ith. The wind now increased, and blew over the snow so keel »rrying with it a perfect torrent of drift snow, that we were pnger able tortace it;«so that we were at last, at seven in the ev iBe, obliged to /betake ourselves to the shelter of a spow hut, which guides bu^t at the west end of the lake where we were now ig^ in o«r cold and laborious journey. iijrfrientii had noticed and recollected the inconvenience that had experienced from the smallriess of the hut which they had trulfiled on the preceding occasion, and the present one was futoreii^de considerably iareer. The Esquimaux, as everr one il| li^ipe very diort, though thickly made; and thence, cakoiating fcen aetvei, aad fwytting^ifr wwfrfreatef < t a t ara and teq ^er that which they had made before was so cooQned, that we not itre^ ounehres out, without opei^ the doorway and '^ "] ^Iw 186 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISOOVKRT. putting our feet and legs beyond it; which, in such a temperature as that of this country, was by no means agree^le. We were now very thankiful, even for the small portion of obsiwrvation which had discovered this fact, and for the goodnature, and politeness, which had laboured to find the remedy. ^ 8th. In the morning it was foggy, with much sno^jr. Our guides therefore proposed to leave the ba^age behind, that we might travel the more quickly, and thus be enabled to reach Nei-tyel-le, and afterwards return to sleep at the hut I could not have select- ed a more unfavourable day for a visit to a place of so much inte- h irest; but as I well knew the capricious and changeable charactiers —c^ Uiese people, I was unwilling to i^ke any objections.. In any event, I should thus have seen the place and ascertained the Way tO'' it; 80 as to enable me to reach and examine it at some future day, under more favourablexircumstances. We accordingly set off at nine in the morning; and after passing two small narrow lakes, called Kung-uck from the hilly country by which they were bounded, we arrived by a short and stee^ descent at the place named Pad-le-ak; a ivjird which means "journey's ; end." The total absence of any tid^mark made me, at first, doubt whether we had really reached the sea; but the man Awack hav- ing cast off his d<^s, one of £hem soon found a seal-hole, and thus^ a&wed me to taste the salt water. The occurrence of some hum- mucky sea ice, shortly after, would alone have set thb question at rest; as it completed my satisfaction by ensuring this essential fact ^'^ respecting our geography and the journey which we had thus made. '"' Keeping on our course to the south-west until eleven o'clock, we passed an island which the guides called 0-wuk-she-o-wik because the particular cod, termed by them 0-wuk, is caught near this , place during the summer and the autumm freauenting its shores, as they informed us, in great abundance. From this we turned toward the south, and, after that, to the south-east; when, passing first a .^unall lake where I procured a meridian altitude of the sun, and tra- . versing a low shore of limestone, we arrived at the great lake of Nei-tyel-Ie at one o'clock. The east shore of this pietfe of water presented a ridge of granite hills, and the guides pointed out on the laces of these several winter huts which they called 0-ka-u-eet. The luide Awack had left his canoe here; and he therefore separated from us to go in search bf it, whil^ we pursued our course to the southward, soon reaching the banks of a river. I attempted in vain, at. this time, to form some estima^ of the size of this i&ke; for the snow drift was so heavy ak ' entirely to prevent this, since I could never see more than a mile in any direction, during the time that we Were near it. W^ found the canoe belonging to the other guide, on a «mall islet- in the river; and, at this point we estimated the stream to be half ^ mile in bVcAdth; while, as the ice on it was of very considerable the informatioD of the guide OeUltorh it runs into the sea in a di- rectioii to the south-wMt oi this iple^ flewing out of the ■outh-eaitem ■•♦if. ^ TO THE ARCTIC REGIOITS. 187 end of the lake which we had passed. The hanks were of limestone; and, from some fragments of this rock, with the assistance of Mr. Blankey, I erected a eairn^ and we went through the usnal cere- mony of taking possession. At three o'clock we had finished all that we could now do in this quarter, and prepared for our return. In no long time we found the canoe, which Awack had left for us to pick up, while be went forward to melt some snow to he ready ,on our arrival at the hut. At six we reached the sea once more.and the river of Pad-le-ak at seven; at which time the weather had become ' settled and clear. I therefore ascended an elevated ground, with Ooblooria,and this obtained a very perfect view of this extensive inlet, ' He herelnformed me, that to the quarter he pointed, extending from north-west to south-west, there was a contiguous open sea, or a sea free of all ice, during the summer, and that at a short dutance beyond a high and bold cape, which terminated the north-east shore of the inlet, no land could be seen to the westward. But, from the* south-west to the^outh-east, there was a tract of land connecting ihe ground on which we stood with Ac-cool-le and the shores of Re- pulse bay, while there was no way into this sea from the south; j^ that if our ship desired to reach Nei-tyel-le from her present §0n sition, she must go round a long way to the northward. From this evidence which appeared to be as accurate as he was clear and consistent in giving it, T concluded that we were now. looking on the great western ocean, of which these people had so frequently spoken to us, that'^he land on which we stood was part of the great continent of America, and that if there was any passage to the westward in this cmarter, it must be sought to the northward of our present position. To the cape in question I gave the name of Isabella, being that of my sister, on whose birthday it was discovered. The guide Ooblooria now pointing to the south-west, said that (he way to Oo-geoo-lj^ lay in this direction; on which I endeavoured to Eersuade him to accompany me there in the coming spring. In this, owever, I could not succeed by any offers or promises that I could make; his objections seeming to arise from the great distance, and from the difficulty of procuring food; the last being a reason far top solid to be removed by aught but the complete demonstration of a sufficient and well-secured supply. In the course of this discussion, he informed me that some of the tribe which inhabits that place had brought their people drift wood from it, but that none of them had ever been there; so that their communication was very limited, and their knowledge, of course, but imperfect. We reached our hut at nine in the evening, and found that Awack had, as we had expected, arrived before us. He had displayed his newly acquired learning, or his ingenuity, in a rather unexpected manner; having succeeded in procunng a light by means of the oxv- muriatic matches which He had seen us use for that purpose; and he had thus provided us with an ample supply of water; a refreshment of which we were much in need, and the want or sca jgUyijQLgh feh:: •I is always exceedingly tantalizing in a country of snow and ice;tSee- ing that we arc living among water, walking on water, and eternal^ . 4 188 SECOND VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY H ly annoyed by water, in one at least of its forms, and always foreet-,, ting that the snow and ice of this frozen land is a far other thin| th^j that 6f our own winters, and not to he converted into donk without great labour and expense of heat. . ., ^ «. j j ' Being now on our way home, we for the firit time afforded our- selves a w^rm mess of grouse soup, while we also boiled some seal s flesh for our conjpanions. Ooblooria was completely tired, from his great exertions during the day. His partner was suflenng from snow blindness; find thus it fell on him to lead the way, as it wasun- known to ourselves. Thus labouring through snow which was (rflen verv deep, with the drift in his face, and at a very quick rate,_at the head of the sledge, he hdd gone at least forty miles, so that his fatigue was no cause of surprise. All slept soundly, and by ten o'clock the following morning, we're?umed our joiirney homestjard. • At noon I observed for the latitude, near the east end of the great lake of Ty-shug-ge-wuck and found it to he 69° 38' 53". Here Awack left IIS, bat rejoined us again, within four hours, at Tar-rio-nit-yoke; bringing with him the paunch bf a deer, which they esteem a great delicacy, together with some fish that he had concealed m the sum- mer. We arrived at our hut on the inlet of Too-nood-lead at four in the afternoon, and just in time to escape a most violent gale of \wnd from the northward, accompanied by a very heavy drift, which -continued without intermission during the whole night, and made us doubly thankful for the shelter which our little nest ^flforded us. It was sufficiently cold too; for the thermometer fell to minus \^. To\frardfr nine on the following morning the gale began to aMi^; and as we were anxious io reach the ship, we set out at noon, when the wind gradually subsided, and the remainder of the journey prov- ed very agreeable, aslhe weather at length became as fine as dm- . nble. The guide Ooblooria was, however, in a very lamentable condition; suffering from snow blindness, and his knees being ulcerat- ed from the frictidn of his frozen trousers. TTie Esquimaux sledge was bccupied by the three canoes which Ibrmed the principal object of their journey, so that there was no room in it for thi» unlucky man, who could scarcely see his wi^, m 7 consequence of tibife streamingof tears from his inflamed eyes. I there- fore desired \am\ seat Limself in ours: and was much pleased at the difficulty which I had in prevailing on him; as his polited^qr ; goodnature did not choose that we should walk for his accommoda- fion. This, however, proved of no inconvenience, dtber to Mr. Blahky or myself, lyho were fresh, and had not laboured more than was necesB»ry to keep us warm. Knowing Ww also the ground, we . took on ourselves the office of guides, walking at the head of the ^ sledges alternately, to point out the best way through the rough ice and hummocks. It was, finally, the onl;r gpod day and the only aereeabtle journey which we h^d experienced since quitting the Bhip; while it also permitted me to make all the observations ncces- ■ aiy for thfl f u ture survey of (hi i line of r < w« rt ; and thmw e at l ength reached the Victory at six in the eveiting* 2" ■M- .- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. CHAPTER XXn. 189 ■>- il Proce^&igs in the skip, and vdth the natives. , April llih. The wind became settled, and the sky serene, though there ^as still a little snow. The travellers were recover^; and the euides having received the promised files, departed very happy; be- wg, however, td return the next day Tor a new speair each, in place of those that were broken, with wood to repair one of the canoe^ which was much damaged. The average dimensions of the8e_wa« about twenty feet in length, by a foo^and half irf breadth. Home specimens of the salmon and lake trout were procured; but we atler- wrds got much better ones from the sides of the sledges that we had purchased from them, which were formed of these fishes, frozen together into a mass, '^he service of the day, Sunday, was not • 12(A: There was a fresh breeze firom the north-eastward, but it was not cokL Jt was necessary to build a new place for the ther- mometer, the other being inundated with water. A party came from the huts to thank us, bringing a valuable seal-skin as a present, with another of a pair of gloves for the mate, in lieu of a borrowed pair which the dogs had eaten. They received their wood of course, ^ and Rave us thtf native names of the fish used in constructing their sledsos, which we had bought, informing us that they v»ere caught in iSe lake of Neitchillee. The descriptions of these, amounting <» four, must be sought in the report on the Natural History of thig • wS? The temperature rose so much, as nearly to readi ^ freeainx point, and the sky was overcast It was stoll repiarkabte. SdS£g the changes of the wind on this day, the h«»»««t dwr^ of the thertaometer was when it blew from the norths and that it sank very quickly when the wind changed to the south. We were not yet prepared with a solution for this fact It is more easy to say than to prove, that there ^as open sea to the north, and that tlie south wind blew over a great extent of frozen land. There was k(^ enough, and land enough also, in the former direction, to render this expbmatkm more acceptable in the clo8et,to those whom words wiU satisfy, than to us who knew the country. It wa» our bwuM« at least to wait for a better, whether that shouM arnve or not A native came to beg a new stick for his spear, in lieu of his own, which was broken: but we thought it expedient to refuse him. To mve Ughtiy, was to deprive ourselves of the power of rewarding; even M it not been absolutely necessary to-keep up the priceof our coiwaodl- ties, lest tiiey should faU to no value, and depnve os of the fiilure ineBnf so as to comprisei nine faiQilies in eight but^ The vessel had heeled so . much, from the failure of the ice on one side, that it was necessary lo remove the weight of snow from that part of the deck. It- was now ajso time to clear away the snow-bank round the ship, being noloftger wanted. This found us work for the following day also. The tempera- ture' during^bese three days vacillated okeach side of zero; the great; est rise being plus 2°. On the last, another visit informed us that some of the party had removed. to an inlet northward of their first positiont nth*' Commander Ross and the mate j^^arted on the.' sledge. The natives brought us a skin and a seal, ano^ wad again teased by one/ While making observations, to show him where the seals might . be foundv To get rid of him, I pointed to a place, at hazard; and, ' in the event, acquired the reputation of 'a conjuror, inasmu^ iis they afterwards' caught threcf. Prognostication was, howeVer, a trade far too dangerouf to our repi^tation, to be indulged in; and J hoped that the opportunities would not often be forced onus in this manner. One of the seals was very gratefully brought to me, as an acknowledgment; b^t the bearer was nevertheless rewarded with a ' file. The first snow buntings of the season were seen this day. ■Commander Ross retui;ped in the evening fron;^ the newly erected - northern huts, about six miles offi and having explored therbmrted in- let, determined that there was no passage in that dii'ection. Thus was one of our projects exterminated; but there we're two still rismaining. . 16th. This Sunday was a calni one; but tfie temperature did not rise beyond 11° plus. After church, one tof the men brought back the iron door of the fox-trap which iiis brother had stolen %fter he had built it. There seemed mbre temptation to steal, than desire to retain; for they never had any reluctance in returning what bad been stolen. Their 6pinion seemed to be, that although it was wrong to steal, no hacm was done if the owner did not miss the property: an argument jiot uncommon, I am sorry to say, among their betters in our pwgr country, but not t1:i&<,more defensible because it oas an apologist in Shakspeare. Making no coi)pealment from their friends, . these did not fail to inform: while, not denying when accused, they ^eeemed.to.c/M^er the whole matter, the reproach of thief, a^d all else, as a ^good joke." Y6t they sometimes brought peace offerings; ah they did on this day, in a small seal, I also recovered the trough of the artificial horizon, which had been missed for tVvo days, to-, gether trith a dbg which had been detained: the culprit, who was \ going to Neitchillee, being apparently very penitent, and desirous of making friends With us before his departure. AU of them Were about to remove; and it is probable that we Were mste sorry than they, at a parUng, after which, as we then thought> we were' not likely to meetagain^ ' "''''' » • • ■vm*' w .* - ^ «M *■ *' 4 '. «■ TO THB ARCTIC RBOroiTS. 191 \ 19th. It blew fresh, with thick drift sqow, but it did not prevent many ,of the natives from coming to us, to take a second farewell. Each received some present; and at ten, they drove off t6 the south- ward, leaving their former habitations empty. TJhey were, evidently sorry at parting, though expecting to see us at Neitchillee; and their final adieu was a universaUhout of thanks, and goodluck, in their own, now tolerably intelligible, tongue. ... i 20/A. There was a cold breeiee till evening, when it became calm. A seal was brought to ua from the northern village; and Ikinallik 8 son propwed to be a guide to Shag-a-voke, the station near Neitchillee,^ where we were desirous of examining a strong current of the tide. He was accordingly kept on. board till the morning, when the expedition was to take place: the promised reward being a file. They told us that they had seen th4 first gull of the season, on the - day before, which was good new^ >ut We could not persuade them ' to remain all night, because they had promised to return. The en- gineers were employed in cutting up- the boilers, to obtain a new sheathing for the outside, where /the iron had been originally bad, and whence arose tome of our le^kineSs. The thermometer did not rise beyond zefro. / xj -xuiu- !? - - " '' ' 'Manky the mate, departed with their * .; the weather cold, but clear^^nd iie former delinquents brought JEt seal- oMu au» ..«. •'. . Jwit they" were bought, not accepted.' Sa'thel^ complaining that they had taken no seals, they were m- formed that it was on account of the iron which they had stolen; an accusation which induced the former to confess respecting some, of which'we did not know. / , " . . . , v« /• 22ndL On the twenty-secdnd, it was colder than it had been fox a month; the thermometer frilling to minns 9°. The natives brought a large seal and four skinsj which were bought; while they informed us, at the same time, thalt they were soon to leave their present station for a more southehi one. At eight, our own offipers return^ irom their journey, leaving the guide, who was quite exhausted, with his friends, who hald encamped six qailes further, to the south of our station. / . , , , , - * • • In spite of the cold and drift, they had succeeded in ascertaining that therefwas a crooked channel, not more than two hundred feyt wide, at the new settlement of Shag-a-voke; that it was a mile in length, and lay at the' bottom of an inlet, while also leading inland, to the westward, intoa spacious basin, five Jhiiles i|^ diameter. It was thtf jnme which they hadcrossed in their former journey, before they caAk to the reported inlet into the western sea, where they had ascertainedXthe exisitnce of a, narrow isthmus. The capes which bound the entrance of (his inlet were visible from the ship, as vras the continent\o the south-east, which seemed to trend towardi Akullee in Repulse bay.' But I must give the narrative of Cona^ mader Ro« ih his own words. ' < 21st. Comihander Ross, and guide, an^ seve6 days' provisior the wind favourable. One of ^' skin, and his brother a spear; T" ^ I r t •\- V *■■- 1 « .tp..- u.- ■' ,'" ^f^—. > a * 4 ' ..,..<^ L '1---^ m m^ tms-:^'::::: *i^M» L Wf^ / Ids SBOOITD VOTAGB Or DiSOOVEHT CHAPTER XXin. ComnumdarRoss^s second journey and narrative. 1880. Wc had alrea^ ascertained that it was the western ocean which we had formerly seen across the narrow bthmns of that tract of land which we afterwards nanwid Boothia; and coupling this knowledge with the account which the Esquimaux had given us e correct; irceof re- li from our of occnlar Eieh an ob- rea,ixk oar I their ex- impany us, act as my ntyrfirst of ■ ^ It. ttiid-'dieini expedition; hich is the (ions. We td, nnitil we : of its eo- ff the cape, afternoon. TO THE JMmjljff lEaioirs. 103 called ihag-a-v6ke; but itdifffered so much from the description which Ph^d deceived firora Ooblooria that, on my pointing up the inlet, he; immediately said Shug-looooanga, "I have told a story, andJ)egged to be allowed to build a hut: saying that he was so much fatted that he could go no further. ' * . . , . , % this 'time the wind had subsided, and the weather, whiqh had *before-|^n so disagreeable, was succeeded by a beautiful evening. JJo>iiltfnc, therefore, to lose the advabfage afforded by weather as rare as it was fine, the boy was put on tl^fe sledge, and we proceeded alofig the north-west shore of Accood-lcruk-tuk, m a west-south- westerly direction: during which little journey I had an opportumty of ascertaining its general appearance, -y- „ ,. , . ^v The entrance of this inlet i<^ formed by Cape Tad-le-^chua on the south-east, and the low point of Ac-cood-le-riik.tuH, on the north- west; these two points being about five miles astjnder. Bdth the shores are composed of red granite; and there are some islets lymg off each of these point8,4n such' a manner as to Occupy a large por- tion of the entrance. In proceeding upwards into^, the shores era- dually approximate; and, at the distance of ahout\f(>ttr niiles from the entrance, where they take a remarkably tortuoiMJ course, the breadth of the inlet was only a hundred and twenty feet; that place fdrmine its narrowest portion. Narrow too as this channel is, it is still further contracted by some rocks within it, which rise aWe the water, on which, at this tinie, much he%vy ice was grounded. From all these particulars, I doubted whether even a boat could be lurried into the upper part of this arm of the sea; as it certamly wouM not a£brd a passage to any ship. , f But being now desirous to make a more accurate examination than I could do while we were in motion,! selected a*pot for a hut; and dechiring my intention to halt, set Noak-wush-yuk to work to build us the usual snow hduse: departing alone on thw pursuit That I might proceed the more lightly, Weft my gun behind, which I had soon occasion to regret; as, within an hour's time, I perceived two animals trotting behind me. It being dusk, I mistook them for wolves, and though these were npt the most agreeable compan- ions for an unarmed man, 1 was infinitely more mortified at the want of my gun on finding them to be two fine deer, which passed within ten yards of me. They were the first which had been seen this season. " . . ..t ■, al • i * I here saw, that above the narrow strait just menlibned, the inlet expanded again to a breadth varying from one quarter to three quarters of a mile; and after about three hours' of quick walking, ^ arrived ut its further extremity, and landed on a small islet where we had found Tulloack's canoe buried. I had thus completed the ex- amination of the only inlet to the south through which we could have hoped to find a passage to the western sea. This inlet, Shag-a-voke, derives its name from the rapidity with .2&: I TM / "^•■^.;"' .X 104 HBOORD yOYAOB OF DISOOVERY 4 lyhich, mthc siunmer time, the stream rushes out through the con- tracted and narrow channel which it must pass m its way to the sea; and I formerly remarked, that the name is expressive of this fact: sinc^ the literal interprfetation of that i8-"it ruM fast. Respect- ine the cause of thb current there can he no difficulty; since the mass of water by which it is produced is evidently derived from the melting of the snow on the upper lands; Ihe whole of which finds its way in numerous torrents, as we had afterwards occasion to see, through the valleys which tend down to the head and the sides of this inlet Hence the great rush of water, in the early part, at least of the summer, that being also the iime in which this place is chiefly frequented by the natives, as it is the season of the fishery, when the salmon are labouring to work their way upwards from the It was mitjnight when I returned to the hut, whichhaiMen er^ct-V ed for some time; after a much longer journey than I had intended, but which I could not prevail on myself to shorten when ijBund my- self led on gradually from point to pbiht, lest I shouW leave this in- vestigation incomplete. I must confess that 1 was extremely fatigued; as I had travelled fifty miles during this day, and had reason, on this account, to blime the stupidity of the guide in not having built a larger hut. We had great difficulty in forcing ourselves into it, by all our ingenuity and perseverance; pnd when there, it would not hold the three which formed Qur party, in any but a posture between sitting and lying; but it was, for that reason, the warmer, and we contnved to get some of the sleep which fatigue brmgs, m return for its grievances. . . ,» . x, ' j 22nd. It was not, however, that sleep which the restless envy, and which all would gladly prolong. We were much more glad to nse than we had been to lie down; if such a term can he appUed to a po^ ture as like to that in the parish stocks as aught else, or the word bed to a "form" which even a hare could not have occupied, and which would have required all the flexibility of a fox or a rabbit, luckily it was a very fine molfning; and after having shook our- selves, like the bears, 1 proceeded to finbh my observations, which being completed, we set out for the ship. As we proceeded down the inlet, the dogs got a sight of three deer which were passii^ Over to the opposite shore; and before we_could stop them, or were well aware of the matter, .they set off in full chise, *ith the sledge at their heels. At every bound which this carriage made over the rough ice, some part of our ba^age flew out, to the great amusement of our guide, who shouted with joy at the "fun." The whole wis soon out of sight; and we had nothing to do but to follow, and to pick up our instruments and other matters, as fast and as well as we could; till, after three hours hard walking, we overtook the machine, hard wedged between two pieces of ice, and the dogs so fatigued that they were scarcely -able to move. No harm "^1 ■ife- _ \ TO THE ARCTIC REOIOKS. 195 was however ^one.but that ^^ T^-^^^^XtrJ^'^^^t^^^ of the deer was very different f-XS^i Sd Wc wSe oWiged. therefore Very well taken care of. ^ ^^g. In the moriing he came to *»»« ft £' °°* ^JJt^^^^^ that dence as usual, and with a ~"»J.^%Jf ^of K^^^^^^^ «"«"P*- name, we ccild only at first conjectur^ bu ,t w^ probabU. inai more did ttiw «PP?"^7 "[^ * .. uu answer was that he was not asked him why he had fofgo?®" »J',™ *^!*th He after that, re- ^ith^thL peVe, than of actual .ensure ^f ^'J^f JS l^ittSd^drdTre.'j^p^^^ Tin the case of tb^ft. whether in Sparte ^^^^ W on^ dr^»5 of the South sea, the "M^ccessful ri^e wm the oniy^ra^^ S blame or rinfif»™ t^'^^J^T ;, wlTba^visited the rude potheses, and two errors, among ^'^^^''^^^''^i^^^ evpi^y where, 5nd savage tribes of the worii The one »J^.^»«"^; ^jf^, j, the and even finds it disgut^djmder the ^rb of ^. i^^ direct reverse. I «'°'»o* J»«»P^"^tSd t^Saklt our Wim^^^ had been somewhat too ^^^^ J^^^ ^^^^inj Zl^t U the friends through a ^^m^?^?'''tf^^^^y^lL tte b^t humour, most comfortable view which preaervM o«««^^f V^ T' ^^y^^^ to ™The farce,.however, ended 'l^f >£ /^/^t hSn: and he a conscience no loDger aching. V 1 ». vrnf^r »; / 106 \ SBCORD VOTAGB OF DUOOVBRT CHAPTER XXIV. k V < Departure of Commander Ross on a third expedition — Threatening of a rupture zoith the natives — Commander Ross's return^ -1830. It had now, therefore> been completely ascertained that there was no passage into the western sea to the south of the 70th degree; and it therefore became unnecessary to lay plans for pro- ceeding th this direction with the ship. The more minute examma- tion to the northward, was therefore the object to which our atten- tion was n^xt to be directed. Thus aiiEO did we find reason to be thankful that we had made no' further progress; little, as we foresaw, at one time, that we should have come to such a determination as this. Had that been the case, we should have been entangled still deeper in a bay encumbered with peculiarly heavy ice, and after all, been obliged to retrace our steps to the northward; while under in- ^ finitely greater difficulties in extricating ourselves, and perhaps not to have rescued t>ur ship from the ice during the whole summer. It was not an unimportant part of the report of this journey to find that reindeer had been seen only twelve miles to the south of our place, with innamcrable tracts of the same animal, attended by the traces of their enemies, the wolves. ' AprU2Sd. Being St. George's day, the usual ceremony of a royal salute and the di^lay of flags was adopted. Therie was no one, in- deed, to witfness this custoinary loyalty; but it was right to maintain the etique^tte of the servfce. The better part of the day, after tbi^ was occupied io cutting out .the rudder, which had received some damage m>m the Ice; but there was still a holiday left for the crew. Some of the natives arrived; and the guide boy passed on his way home. . ' 24th. The inornitig began fine, bat ended with snow from the northward, j^aking an excursion to the top of the neighbouring hill, two of the natives joined me, and pointed out the position of Shag-a-voke, when I also ascertained those of many more places that were named, and learned the native names of some of those ' which we had seen, as well as of our own place and the immediate neighbourhood. We afterwards purchased what they had, and sent them home fortified with a djnner. The ice in the tanks was this day reduced to a bushel and a half for the week ; so much less was the evaporation within, under the recent temperature. fiSth. It was cold in the wind, though the thermometer was at 2° ■/ jt^s" TO TUB ARCTIC REGIONS. 107 iH plus; and there were some showers of ijnow, with an overcast sky. We received a visit from the people in the northern village, who were about to remove to NeitchUlee. Nothing else interfered with our usual duties and repose on Sunday. • rru On Monday, the natives arrived from their three stations. 1 here were some skins to sell, and there was also a present of boots for Commander Ross, from the mother of his guide, as a testimony^ of gratitude. It was settled after this, that they shojtild furnish another guide next day, to an expedition intended to the northward for the purpose of examining the reported passage in that direction; but as it afterwards was discovered that some of them were to go there on their own pursuits, the arrangements were made accordingfcjr* 27/A. Commander Ross and one of the matis departed to explore the inlet to the northward. At the village aU was confusion, in consequence of tlje death of a child that had been killed by a stone falling on it The father and five brothers came out, in an appa- rently frantic state, withlheir knives in their hands; and as it was doubtful what this meant, our own party prepared their guns, on which the father was forced back into the- hut, and peace was restored. It was then settled that the man-and boy, who had been previously engaged, should accompany the party in the morning, being confident that they should see musk oxen. On board we had abundant work, in caulking the ship as far as the men could con- trive to reach; and this, with other preparations for our future jour- ney^ occupied the following day also, which presented no particular * ♦ ♦ • ■ » 29th. The two last dUM lad been 'graduallv becoming colder, aod the thermometer to-day was at ijriinus 2°. The caulking and pitch- ing were finished, and the men commenced to fit the skms on the canoe frame which they had prepared. The thermometer at night sank to minus 9*^ and a snow storm came on in the morning, witb the wind from the northward. It was impossible to work outside of the ship, and we received no visits. , , ., ^ xu c * i. if In summing up this last month, I may remark that the first ball was much warmer than was to have been expected at this sea- son: but the end was so cold, that the average for the whole was zero. The most important of the events in it were the two journeys: and the sum of the information procured by them appeared to be the following: . • rrk We were sure that we were on the continent of Amenca. ine western sea had been seen; but we found also, that if there was any passage to it, that must be within a degree to the northward of our ' position, at the bottom of Prince Regent's inlet, and in CressweU ba.p^. where, after sailing up six miles, no land could be seen in any di- rection. As the Umits to .osr necessary researches were, thus, mucli contracted, our obvk>us boiiness was to examine minutely the seve- ral inlets to the northward; while, should we find »b passage, we should return to Prince Regent's inlet, and examine the only j(e- l^^ \ ■M .^->'? If ■ ■': nt ^ 108 u. \ \ • '&^ sEodi%i^orAaB or discovert mainihg opening on the isouth side of Lieopold's island. This had « been done, as far as it could by lanid, in the first journey; but the result, thus far, was not satbfactory. It was for a future day to know the success of the expedition on, which CQjhmander Ross hhd just proceeded. ''^ ' ■ Much needful work had been done in the ship, and the men were in good health: they had even escaped the usual inflammation of the eyes from snow; excepting the mate, who had suffered from it in his -first journey. The i(;e had bedii found seven feet and'^a half thick; and we did ndt e;xpect that it would increase any more. ^^ Many good observations had been made, and the experiments on sound continued: but the results of these were so irregular, that we < ikncw not yet what conclusibns to draw. May 1st. This was not the May-day of the poets, but it was mitil, at least, till the evening, when there was a strong north-easterly breeze. There were n\ visits from natives: and though many hares were seen, none were killed. We expected tire return of our party . to-day, in vain. The midnight temperature was minus 4°, and the barometer fell half an jnch.\ 2nb- a; such was ixious: and ntly sent to ind, if not, lotice of its lid thus be )n8 without me natives arty would led. They in number, (id the huts 'ere gone to main some tatisFaction. rt of them iportant to ra sea: but, 'e must be part of the ly reindeer the great Mtrrative of Commander Hoss. A& the season was now rapidly adducing, I became very desirous, ifit was possible, to visit that place to the northward which the •natives called Aw-wuk-too*te-ak, as a preparation for the journey- which we had projected to the Western Ocean. The Esquimaux had now also broken up into different parties; _and we were there^ fore afraid that they would all quit oujr neighbourhood befQre we ' had ascertained the position of that place. It was, to us, a very important one, if their information was correct: since they said that, beyond that point, the coast turned and extended to the north-west, and that this was the only route by which we could get round to the sea of Nei-tyel-le Correct as this information .might be, for aught that we could suppose, to the contrary, having no grounds to form any^nclusion, we thought it a remarkable circumstance, as it was ooewhich diminished our confidence in the reporters; that although many of these people had been at Aw-wuk-too-te-ak, and some of them three or four days' journey beyond it, none had ever gone io Nei-tyel-le by the route which they indicated. to us. All their in- formation was derived from report; and when they spoke of a com- munication between the eastern and western seas, existing at a cer- tain point, we began to suspect that this was «it so great a distance as probably to imply the passage at Barrow straits. But under any ibubts, whether Aw-wuk-t6p-te-ak was situated at no greater distance than we were told, or wherever it might prove to be, it was most needful that we should see it The country was qdite unknown to us; every thing arouj^was equally obscure or doubtful; however generally accurate the/geographical descriptions of these people had proved, they could neirer be thoroughly trusted; the land bight be inte^ected at any part by ndrrow straits, or we might be oli an islaiilk while, under any view/ it was our« business to search this countl^ as we would seeic for tne mouth of a river; since for this purpose we had conp, and sinceiWe could never fore- see where the long sought honour might not pe lying in wait to re- ward our exertions. ^- , , 7 A large party of the Esquimaux had come/to the ship while these reflections were pasting through our mind^ and taking advantage of this incident, one of them wa» engaged to conduct me to the place in question, and the arrangements made for our departure on the following morning. I was to be accompanied by the mate Aber- nethy; and the surgeon was to attend me to the huts, where the " I was, to m ee t M, that-^^ N,.' ¥ tf- ^^» '. U N r. ii M "-♦ =4 200 SECOND. VOTAQE OF DISCOVERT \ Roes of the nature of our figal arraYigements for the pmneynSaetfT^ and of the probable time of our absence; so ^that, if neeaiul, he might take Iheaaures for supplying us with provisions. We departed accordingly, early in the morning pf tlie 27th of April, and approaching the huts, were .exceedingly disappointed at not hearing the cheerful shouts with which we had been usually greeted. That was succeeded by a very disagreeable surprise, on finding that the women and children had been all sent. out of the way, since we knew this to be« rignal of war; a fact of which we were sp'eedily convinced by seeing that all the men were armed with theur knives. The ijerce and sullen looks of these people also boded mischief: but what the cause of all this could be, it was quite im< po^ible to conjecture. • We could see them better than they could distinguish us, as, the sun was in their faces; it was the noise of our dogs which eave them , notice of our arrival and proximity; and as soon as this '^as heard, ode of them rushed out of a hut, brandishing the large knife used in at- tacking bears, while the tears were streaming down his aged and furrowed face, which was turniilg wildly rodnd in search of the ob- jects of his animosity. In an instant he lifted his arm to throw his weapon at myself and the surgeota, who were then within a few yar<» of him, having advanced in order to ascertain the Cause of ali this commotion. But the sun, dazzling him, caused him to suspend his arm for ah instant; when one of his sons laid hold of his uphfted hand, and gave us a moment's time for reflection. The result of that was, of course, an immediate preparation for defence; though we could have done little against such odds as our unexpected enemies displayed. We therefore retired to the sledge, where I had left my gun; and not daring again to quit it, as Mr, Abernethy had noarms, y^&ited for the result, while loang ourselves in vain conjectures r^pecting thejcause of offence, seeing that we had parted good friends on the preceding day. The ferocious old man Pow-weet-yah was still held fast, and now by both his sons, who had pinioned bis arms behind him; though he strove hard to disengage himself; while the rest of the party seem- ed to be standing in r^diness to second any attempt which he might ^ make on us. Tl^t there was some diflference of opinion among theni, however, and that all were not equally hostife, was plain from the' conduct of these young men; so that we could still hope for some parley before matters came to extremity. They now bc^n to talk among themselves, and then separated in such a manner as to be ready to surround us, which having nearly effected, and we not choosing to be so cut off from th6"bhip, I warned those whb were closine m on the rear, to desist. This produced a short pause, and a still shorter conference; but they immediately again b^n to close in, brtindishing their kniyes in defiance, according to their josuaI custom, and had nearly gained their object, wheft finding that fur- t h e r forbearance would be huz ardoo^rl-p la ce d th e guntany shoul - iro THE ARCTIC RBGI0H8> •* ediuU he e 27th of >inted at . n usually 'prise, on lit of the which we med with Iso boded quite im< [S, as, the avethiem , leard, one Bed in at- aged and )f the ob- throw his lin a few luse of ali > suspend s uphfted ration for ds as our le dedee, it, as Mr, ourselves that we , and now :hough he rty seem- I he might ingtheni, from the' t for some m to talk as to be id we not ««rhft were auto, and began to beir^nftl that fur- 901 ler, and was about to fire, ilrhen I fortunately saw that the threat alone was sufficient to give them a check. With little loss of time, those who had advanced/ nearest broke ofl^ in evident alarm, and retreated toward/'their hut^ thus leaving us an o^n passage in the rear. • But as I could not induce any of them to approach, or to answer my questions, we continued ^for nearly half an hour in this state of suspense and perplexity,' when we were relieved hj the coura|ge or confidence of one of the women, who came out of a hut just as I was again raising my gun, aind called to me not to fire, advancing up to our pkrtj immediately; withoht showing the least mark of fear^ From her, we soon learned the cause of all this hubbub, which, absurd as it was, rpight have had a fatal termtnationf as we should probably have been the chief suflferers. One of Pow-weet-yah's adopted sons, a fine bov of seven or eight years of age, whoini we knew, had b6ea killed on tbb preceding nigjit, by the falling of a stone on his head. This they had ascribed to diir agency, through the su pifernfil ljj^l powers which we were believed to possess; while the fatMMkof very unnaturallv under this conviction, had meditat- ed rdfll^p the manner which we had experienced. I nHRlch difficulty in persuading the good woman that we were totally ignorant of this cieitastrophe, and that wie were, very fiOOf for the misfortune; she however repeated all that I ha^ sfiid to two of t|ie men who bad not taken any diare in the business of the attq^k, and who now approached us unarmed, in token of peace. Their object was to persuade us to go back to the ship, and to return in three days, when they offered to be our guides to the desired place. But mapy reasons opposed this scheme; of which the chief was, that a^his was the first misunderstanding that had occurred between U8,'^4t was essential to come to an understandings and to renew our friendships, without any delay, lest the opportu- nity should not again occur; as they might go away in the mean time whether from fear of our returning'in greater numbers, or for any other reason, and thus, not only cause H lasting estrangement as to themselves, but a general hostility or desertion on the p'art^ , all the natives within their connexions or reach; thus rendering the whole land our enemies. I therefore objected to this proposal, and declared that I would not go back till we were ajl once more good friends: when perceiving that, the hostile party was gradually ap- proaching our groupe, though, probably, but to hear the conversa-' tion that was passing, I drew a line on the snow, and declared that non% of them should cross it without putting away their knives, which they still continued to grasp in their ^ht hands, with their arms folded across the breast. Aftfrwme (^Venation among them- selves thdr grim visages began to rdax, the knives were put up; and, becoming at last apparently convinced that we had no concern in the death of this boy, they seemed now very anxious to remove 86 ♦ •• • li (0 m 208 itEOOND VOYAOIC OF OISCOVERr ' • » h f % the unfavourable impression whichjtheir conduct, as they must needa conclude, had made onus. - 'XL^ Wf, they still urged ua to ffeturn .ttK|te ship, because, as they Balafit was impcwsible fbt them to make asCof their d<^ till three . days had passed away after Ihe death of^aiiy ond belonging to a fatally. Though in all probability this was really a fua^jntt usage, or a settled period of mouYnin'g, 1 was unwilling io yield ^his point, could I possibly carry it; as the loss of even three d^ys-at^this sea- 80n w^s an important tonsideratiolj. *; % j' *' , 1 tfetrefore produced a large file, offering itd to aiiyw^ of- the party who would go with me, and assuriisK" t^m at 4he same time, that-if lhey*all refoSed I should go alonefatid tK6y would thus lose 'the reward. On this, a consultation of some minutes* took place, in jvhich I heard the word,'!Erk-she" (angry)' frequently used, ac- companied by my name: nf^ich' being ended, the man called Ppo- yet-tah seciQed to yield to his .wif<^'s Entreaties, and offered to ac- company me, provided I wbuld allow ll-lik-tah, a fine lad of sixteen ^ , or seventeen, to be associated with higi. ■ . • This, I of 'course agreed to, as two companions would be more useful than one; and they accordingly went.off to the huh to.pre- pare for the journey. That the peac^ was now considered as per- fectly re-established, there , could jpio linger be any doubt; sincd. they crowded round us, soo^ -resuming tHeir usual friendly and con- fidential behaviour, and putting on that cheerfulness of countenanipe which wfts~^eir habitual expression. . . ^ If I have dwelt on this adventure at 'some length, it is befcause this was the only occasion on'which they ever showed, "any hostile feelings toward us, during all the years which we passed in their " neighbouchood. I must not, howeven, take to myself all the merit - of having brought our little party out of this advehture in safety: the , ' coolness and self-possession of nw two companions were mainly con- ducive to a termination of that,*ih which the least act of temerity, or incaution might have c<»t tjic whole.of us our lives. It was at ten o'clock that we comnfenced our journeytotirards tig north-west conifer of thebay, and we tvere followed by the acV clamations of our friends as long as we Were within hearing Mr. M'Diarmid w^nt back, as wtis agreed, to inform Captain Ross of ■ what had happen^, and to say tliat-wd expected to be absent four or five days, as far as \ gluld judge fi^m the calculation of the guide; so that ouc party consisted now but of four, including the two Esquimaux. • . ' ^ The baggage and provisions were placed on two sledges, each drawn by six does; and by their/aid, wfc travelled very quickly over the smooth ice of the bay. • After having thus made ten or twelve > miles, the gui^e Poo-yet-tah stopped his sledge, and said that he* wab going to a deal hole that he knew of, at some distance on our left hand. As I could not help suspecting that he might leave ua >.«•:— -,K^,, •TI- TO THE ARCTIC REOIQITS. 308 kni return to the hots, I proposed to accompaliy him;, to which ^fae consented without any besitiation. . - , u '\ , V it After we had walked some time, he, bein^'iJI^advaQce, turned ^ C9und, and« striking roe on the breast, said that! was "good;" wh^n ^remar^ing aisM for the first time, that I had leTt Ihy gun (behind, h<* plac^ his spear i^my hand, saying that I should be armed as well as he, and drew from, his dress, where it 'had been concealed, his , long knii^for hi3 ' from a rock projecting through; the shingle, ^hich, bore a fancied resemblance to a human head. The western pctint, termed Neck- ler-rid-yeoo, forms the terminatttn 6( Ac-cdoo-le-ruk-tul^ a Dame which they seem to apply to all pieces of land; or peninfblas, which ^'are nearly surrounded by water, be that fresh pi^salt *' ' / • We continued, hence, to journey along the western shore Ytf 'this "^ inlet, tilt \9e entered the mouth of a river, about a.mile and a«half from its entrance turning off to t|)e west-north-west, and leaving tov our right the termination of An-iife-reak-t<^ . This part of the rivfer is]. called Ac-cood-]e-it-'j[>ang-ut, and, thbugb coverH with . freshwater) ^ '. ice, bore evident mar^s of a^rise and mll^^f the tide^on its,/BhoreA ^ 'At three Vflock we arrived at a poifit' where tiie^stream was coWta ^ ' tracted, so as to produce a rapid, or jGall, of about twenty yards in length; but hence our journey hccame exceedingly lab^ribus, as the - wlMle^alley was so filled with'loose snow that we could no longer pursue the windings of the river as.we had hitherto do^c. I'hus'far, \ . the right bifik of the streaq consisted of loose blocks of ]im^one,» through which masses of gneiss could 'be seen projiecting in idifSretjit. . places,, while the left side ascended from the water in a gentle slope, so as to attain an eleyaition of a hundred feet at the distance d,f • a mile, ' v . ' At ilk we came io a small .lake, which is the source of this rjver, I surrdunded h^. high, rugged, or precipitous shores, the ravine; of; ". which were "filled with closely-packed drift snow, by ^which the ■ summits of the hills in the distance were also CQvered. From tfaisi^/ place we then turned more to the northward;arossing a high ridge for the purpose of reaching anoither lakMMand undergping great labour darmg an ascent of an hour add h iSalf, from the steepness of the ground and the depth of the snow. It was not till ten at night that we arrived at our halting pkce, and finished this day's Journey; ' .\ *11 ■» * '%..■ 804 v«^ 4EC01fD VOTAGB OF DISOOVfiRY i J men, and dogs top, all equally tired^with a laborious struggle against ' a high wind and driving snow, during'a space of thirty niiles which we computed that we had tlravelled. .< The two Esquimaux soon' erectetl an excellent snow hut, %nd, after our Apper Wfrozen meat, we betook ourselves to rest; being all so fatigued that we ceftild-not converse, even on the events of the . morning, pn whitfh I sholild otherwise have entered, for the purpote of understanding better the nature of their funeral usages, as well as thatJtinightconvmceniyselfof the entire removal of. all their fancies respecting our superitetural and mischievouf agency. - ,S^h, The night was extremely tempestuous; andjn^the morning, V\: ' — - ^.jtiblew very hard from the north, vrilh a heavy driving snow, so^that we could not quit our hut till nine. From this cause we made very little way till towards noon, when the wind moderated a good dejil, after which the day became beautiful. The latitude^ by a meri- ^ dional observation, was 70" 26' 19", andat this time, being noon, wc i)assed a great number of ESaquimaux marks placed on an islet in a arge lake. This, as our guides informed us, was a fishing statimi much frequented in the summer and autumn; the lake abounding with salmon during these seasons, which wag the time during^which. they ascended from the sea, through a river Hvhich finds its exit from the north-eastern corner of this piece of water. The station itself was called Nap-pur-re-uk-ta-lig. This place is entirely, surrounded by granite hilM, and the islets consist of the same ropk. Thelaktf itaeu'is of a very Irregular shape, and of cimsid^ra^le extent from the north-east to the south-west. ' Leaving this spot, we crossed this piece of water in a north-wo- • terly direction, but found the travelling very laborious, from the great depth of the snow, which lyas also loose, and occupied the couneof^he river and lake: being unfortunately the directwn most convenient for us; This, like all similar places in this cotintry, ther called It-tib-lin-ne-ak. Thdueh the' road was as bad as could well be, throughout the whole of this hollow, pr Watercourse, theire was one place which far outdid all the rest. This was a frften rapid in the river, whcfi^in addition to the irre^lairity and roughness of the ice, which also projected in slippery masses through the loose snow, the declivity was so vonsiderabfe that the sledges ran down ifwith fearful rapidity, gettine before the dogs, which they draped along, « and endangering the vehicles themselves, with all which they tbarried. We found a safer, though a more rugged path for ourselves, and halted at five o'clock to make the necessary observatiohs for the longitude. It was not very wonderful that the sight of the instru- ments revived in the mind of the guide the belief in our powers of conjuration. And as the idea of eating is ever predominant in the mind of an Esquimaux, while hunting and fishing are klmost the only occupation of their lives, his inquiries took this very natural turn. Should w^ find any musk oxen by means of this inexplicable ■S- •I* 4iS * TO THV ARCTIC REOIOKS. 205 irasswork, -or, see them among the hills, vrhile looking so intensely- through -these tubes and glasses? In fact, we were in the parts fre- quented by those animals; and it was a very* natural conclusion that w6 had come thus far, and taken all this trouble, for that most im- portant of all purposes, a dinner or a feast Poo-yet^tah had yet to learn that civilized Europeans must gain their dinnjsrs by operations much more circuitdus than killing and eatine them;\and would have been puzzled to understand a system^ which had brought so many 'men in a large ship^ all the way from England to his shores, that they might commaad the means of prMent and future dinners by measuring angles and looking at the moOn. . - I was % no means desirous, however, of paarihg for a conjuror. We had found ourselves in a sufficiently awkward predicament al- ready, in consequence c(f .this, to us, unenviable reputation; sind I therefore declitred my total ignorance of all musk oxen and their ways. At this he ie«med ereatly disappointed, and then proposed that we should build a hut m this place, to watch for them; but on my expVessing my desire to go,stiH further this day, he quickly again pu^ on his eopd-tempered face, and we proceeded accordingly. In less than half art hour his sharp eyes observed the tracks of several ofihese^iiiiak on* the fa^^of the ste(ep hill, at- the foot of which oi^no^ nit. ^ On examining them, he found tl^at ^ animals had passra many diays before: but making a further sei|ich he soon found the tqaces of two which he asserted to have been %t this spo( on this very evening We therefore went back to the sMges; and after selecting a Qpw to build a hut, and leaving the work'to be ex- ecuted b^ the lK>yt lie took: his bow and airovre and set ofl^ leading two of his dogs in couples, and desiring me to follow with my gun and favourit^og Tup-to^clvua. On r^ainmg the tracks, he immediately let slip the dogs, and I followed his example with mine. They went oflT.at full speed, and were very SQpn out of sight; as the nature of the surface did not al- low us ti very distant view of the'gromid. His politeness, however, induced him to think me t6o much fatigued to accompany bimin ' search of the dogs and the game; and he therefore slackened/ his pace,, refusing to leave me belund, though I urged him to do so|est we should lo0e our expected prey, and assuring mb that the.do^ would take good care of their own business. •• '^ V We went on, therefore, Jaboriouriy enough, for two hours, over a' '^ very rugged country and through jieep snow; when fihding that the^ footsteps of the dogs no longer followed that of the oxen, he conclud- ed that tUey had got up with'the animals, and were probably hold- ^•ing one or both of them at .bay. Yfe soon found this to be the fact, ^ on turning the angle of a hill; when the sight of a fine ox. at bay be-^ . fore the three dt^, cured our fatigue in an instant, and we went off~^ ourselves at full speed to thlT rescue. Pob-yet-tah, howeyen kf pt th6 lead, and was in the act of dis- . -■■: n V - ■ , - 1. »i.~ ■ ■^ . u ^:i ,■♦ >i*A \ * 20S hkooud voyagb or disoovery , 1 chaining his second arrow when I came up. We saw Jthat it had struck on a rib, since it fell out without even diverting the attention of the animal from thoidogs, which continued barking and dodging round it, seizing it by the heels whenever they had an opportunity, or when it turned to escape, and then retreating as it faced them. In the mean time, it was trembling with rage, and labouring to reach its active assailants, but unable to touch them, experienced as they were in this service. * \ It was easy to see that my companion's weapons were of little value in this warfare, or that the victo^ would not at least have Seen gained under many hburs; as he contmued to shoot without ap- parent effect, fintlBg his opport^bitiesfor an aim with much difficul- ty, and losing mu^lime, afterwards, in recoveringthis arrows. I was p'ieased, therefore, independently of the value ofthe expected game, to find i|n opportunity of showing him the superiority of our arms, and I therefore fired at the'animal with two balls, at the ^istance of about fifteen yards. They took effect, and it felh but riring again, made a sudden dart afe us, standing close together as we were. We avoided the attack, by dodging behind a l^rge stone which was lucki- ly ne^r us; on which, rushmg with all its force, it struck its head so violently, that it fell to the ground with such a crash that the ha:rd ground around us fairly echoed to the sound. My guide, on this, attemptedlb «tob it with his knife; but failing in this, he sought shelter beKa the dogs, which now again came forward to the at- tack. Au^is time it was bleeding so profusely, that the long hair on its sides were matted with blood; yet its rage ^aivd strength seemed undiminished, as it continued to advance' and butt with the skme ferocity a84jefore. « In the mean time, I had re-loaded jny gun behind ttie stone, and was advancing for another shot, when the creature rAhed towards npeas before, to the gr#at alarm of Poo-yet-tah, who called tf me to return 'to the same shelter. But I had time for a cool ajm; and it immediately fell, on the discharge of both barrels, but not till it was within five yards of me. The sight of his fallen enem]^>made my compaion scream and dance with joy, and on his coming up, it was dead; one baH having passed through the heart, and' the Other haviiig shattered to pieces the shoulder-joint. He was lost* in astonis^ent at the effect of the fire-arms; first carefully exam- ining thf^oles which the balls had made, and pmnting out to me that 'Some of them had passed quite through the animal. But it wds the state of the broken shoulder which most surprised him; nor would it be ^sy to forget his look of horror and ' amazement, when he loolEed up in my face and exclaimed "Now-ek-pokel" (it is. broken.) ,. » ^ We had now been eighteen hours without any refreshment, and I naturally,* therefore, expected that, my friend would have lost no time in extracting a dinner out of*the ox. I had however done him I Dg again, re. We ras lucki-- a head so the ha:rd , on this, )e sought 9 the at* long hair ^ strength with the tone, and [ towards id tf me aim; and not till it my 'made >ming up, , and' the was lost" lly exam- ut to me 1. But it , iscd hinfi; lazement, tel" (it is. TO THE ARCTIC REOIORS. • 207 injustice: his prudence was more powerful than his stomach. He was content with mixing some of the warm blood with snow, thus dissolving as much as he required to quench his thirst, and then iih- mediately proceeded to, skin the animal; knowing very weli^ what J might have recollected, that the. operation would shortly become impossible, in cdnseqiience of the severity of' the cold, .which. would soon freeze the whfHe into an impracticable mass. For the same 'Reason, he divided the carcase into four parts; afterwards disposing of the paunch and intestines in the same manner, their contents being previously separated. I did nojt before know,. that they did not eat these as well as the analogous matters of the reindeer; and could only conjecture, that at this season pf the year, the plants on which the musk ox feeds were disagreeable to their taste. In the reindeei^''' the matters found in their itomachs are' considered a great delicacy; and however our own might revolt at a vegetable dish cooked in tliw manner, this f6tma a very useful and salutary ingredient among their gros^ animal diet, since it is scarcely possible for them to collect any eatable vegetables by their own exertions. ^ "' '^ As we were unable to carry off our prizei we were obliged to build a snowhutover it, after which, setting up marks to enable us to find it^glCin, we set out on our return to the place where 'we had left our^mpanions. In the way, we discovered another ox about a qutCrter of a mile off, utader the face of a precipice, but were far too fatigued to think of pursuing it. .The guide, however, assured me that this was of no consequence, since it would remain there for' some time, and we might easily go after it in the morning. We reached the hut that had been built, at five in the morning of the twenty-ninth, hungry and fatigued enough to find a yery serious enjoyment in a hot supper a^Lrest. We had brought away some "of the beef, and found it excet^ingly good, not having, at thi9 sea- son .of the year, the least flavoiSR,of musk. -In August, at Melville ' island, en a former, occadon, this, taste was very oircnsive: and it is only consonant to other experience ia many animals, to suppose that this effect takes place in the rutting season. My observations here, made the latitude 70° 35' 49", and the longitude 0° 38' 33" west of . the ship. • We had not been asleep taore than four or five hours, "when we were awoke by the shouts of Poo-yet-tah and the barking- of the dogs in full cry. On inquirii^ of th« bov> he informed me that our guide and huntsman had crept out of the hut silently, about an hour before, and was gone in pursuit of the ox which we had seen on the preceding day. In a short time he returned, and told us that he had . Totind the animal grazing on the top of the hill, that he had ad- vanced Upon it by the only accessible road, keeping himself in the middle of his dogs, and that he had done this with so much rapidity, that the creature finding no other mode of escape, had tiirown itseljf , ever the precipice. ' 'v ' ; V^ * ' ' r T /^ .'*,r '^^,,.,if4ir" '4 # 208 SECOND VOTAOB OF DISCOVBQV On going to the spot, we accordingly found the itcarcase in the ttlace which he had mentioned, exceedingly mangled by the fall, which had exceeded thirty feet, while the place which it had struck was an irregular block of granite. As far as use was concerned, it was however no worse than if it had been uninjured; and the same operations were therefore repeated: the whole day being afterwards occupied in this work, and in bringigg^ the meat to our but. This, hdwev^r, left me leisure for my observations; and the morn- ing proving fine, I was successful in makinig them. Among other thiflgs, I thus ascertained that our present place wai about forty miles from the shipr, in a direction north 19° west. In the afternoon, there arose a strong breeze with drifting snow; so that we were glad to have recourse to the shelter of 6ur hut, and thus also made our dinner at a much earlier hour thanVuak getting into^our fur bags shortly after, that we might en?ure a good night's rest. ^ aoth. It blew so hard a gale from the north during the whole day, that we were unable to leave the hut; which gave us an opportunitv of some conversation with our guides and companions, and which! made use of in endeavouring to extract from them a fuller history of the event which had led to our dissentibns, and of theil* fe^ings and proceedings in consequence. — ^ ^ Poo-yet-tah himself was equally anxious to explain: so that it was scarcely necessary for me to name the subject. Having commenced, he proceeded in his tale with so much rapidity and vehemence, that it at first seemed to me as if he had re-excited his anger on this sub- ject, and that we were now likely to renew a quarrel which had been suspended, not settled. I soon found, however, that all this en- ergy was the result of bis anxiety to convince me that bis friends were not in reality t«r Ulame, that thef had acted'under what they believed a conviction of our treachdfy, or wicked interference, and that we ought now to be perfectlyTeConciIed,since we had exculf^ted ourselves to their satisfaction. The peacemaker was even the Jd^re praiseworthy, that I mistook the energy of his eloquence on the am^fc- ble side, for a renewal of hostilities and a declaration of war. | ,, In spite, too, of their numbers on that occasion, and of their evi- dent intention to attack, they were impressed with a strong'feeling of our superiority; an impression which we were, all, naturally, mo^ desirous of cultivating; since it was not less a ground of respect, as it must ever be among rude nations, than a tower of defence to us un%r the numerical difierencc between ourselves and this collected nati^. Under this conviction, he thanked me frequently fdr not killing his father, 6i breiikit^ bis shoulder as I had done that of the musk ox; while he still.seemed to fear, that when I returned to the shipl should do him some harm. I endeavoured, of course, to convmce him that nothing of this kind could ever happen, that we were all attached to his people, and desired nothing so much as to continue friends; and with these assurances he seemed satisfied. i /; — % • .^^ «^*"S«*«-»-f , *. . . rt.„ :.m' e in the tlie fall* id struck erned, it the same Iterwards lie morn- ing other out forty i(temoon, vere glad nade our ■ fur bags hole day, portunitT 1 which 1 history of ^ngs and latit was nmenced, ence, that 1 this sub- hich had ill this en^ is friends rhat they ence, ana Kcul^ted 1 the lii^re the an^Bf!^ rar. j'/- their evi. Dg'feeling tUly, mo^^ espect, as ace to us s collected Lfdr not t of the aed to the [> convince i were all ) continue mi^r Ta THK ARCTIC BEOIOIfS. 809 If the remainder of our conversation was not highly interesting, ;\ it will at least serve to convey some ideas respecting uie usages of these people. L was at first surprised to hear my guide Poo-yet-tah call Pow-weet-yah his father; since, to my eye, there were not n^any years of difTercnce in age. On asking tho^ reason, I was informed that he was only the Step-father, and that he was even the second in this relation which Eoo-yet-tah had possessed; while both of them were such during the lifetime of his own father, who hkd taken another wife and left his own to the first of these two, It wai^' however, an amicable separation, The' man had desired to migrate to the westward, and the wife, on the contrary, preferred staying among her own rplations; they therefore separated, a short time after ^ his biiith, and the w^man then married a man called Arg-loo-gah, by whom she had four more sons. Thjs husband was drowned; leaving his widow a large fortune in the shape of these five sons, who are here considered a valuable estate, since the maintenance of the parents in old age devolves on them. Thus she easily procured another husband, Pow-weet-yah, the brother of her firtt one; but by this marriage there were no children. To replace this want, they adopted two grandsons as such; and the boy who had been killed was the eldest of those. The original husband, Ka-na-yoke's true father, had also procured a s6n by adoption, among me tribe at ' Oo-geoo^Iik, to which he had gone, and he was now livuig in a small island, called 0-wut-ta, three days' journey to the westward - of Nei5fjrel-la i The terms 'husband and wife are words of usage; the Ideas are simple, and excite no doubts; the language is smooth, and belongs • to good breeding and good- morals: .and the term marriage is one which equally excites neither reflection nOr commentary. It has been the custom, too, however it began, to priiise the temper, con- duct, and morals of these tribes; but some readers may perhaps question the conjugal system and usages of this people, should they take the troidble to think on the subject; as they may also perhaps suggest that concubinage, and not of a remarkably strict nature, is a more fitting term than marriage, for the species of contract under _ which the paijj^s in question are united. Th^y might even be the moi;e inclined to think so, had they heard the further anecdotes^ which Poo-yet-tah related to me on this sub- ject; of which it must, however, suffice to notice one, aS a sort of general result Among the Esquimaux of Igloolik whom we had - lormerly visited, it was not uncommon for a man to have two wives; a practice that excites no surprise, wide spread as polygamy is, and has been from all time. But my friefad nere informed me that hfe and his half brother had but one wife between them, as, if t ^ghtly also understood, this was held a justifiable system, and, if not very common, merely such because of a general numerical equality between the sexes. Of this custom we bad found no instance at % \ ~1SE1 &• *«(«*«?*•uldhave ely, they lackbone, however, nore, and >ne hand» g with as get down belly and • food 1»- ; of these iring any tn topar- 9fuli,aiid then confessed that lie could swidlow no more. Placing my hand on his stomach, I was perfectly afltonishod at the distension itT had undergone, and which, without such an examination, I could not have believed it possible for any human creature to bear; as, had I not known their habits, I should have expected that, nothing but death could b^ the consequence. ^ May IsL This enormous stuffing caused our guides to pass bu^ A' restless night: if they had jpossessed a t^m for the nightmare, we should probably have heard of it in the morning. In the mean time the gale moderated; so that, when we rose at five o'clock on the next da]*, the weather was such as to allow,-of our proceeding; though sull hazy and someyfj h jj^ threatening, as the breeze was from" the northward, and ^^^ ^^MKEJP^ by some drift ___ _l_ Our sledge was soon ldH||^||^^ guides had not so soon re-' covered from the eff^cts^^^^^uaer, so that it was pest seven otlock before we could S^Ht^^f^Qve.- ^But when ready. Poo- 'H yet-tah said, on my expresSMn^H^pKvillingin^ss to lose another day, that as we should -be obVgpast seven-, taking with us our arms and three of th® dogs, in case of our' falling in with any more of the musk oxen, alnd leaving Mr. Abemethy and the boy in charge of the baggage. Tralvelling over a very rugged country covered with deep snow, during two hours, we at length descended on. the lake y^lmch they eall i^w-wuk-too-teak, and A^fecljwill be found in the chart. / . ^*^ This piece'of water extends, according to its lon^st dimensions, „ ' from north-east by east to south-west bv west, and, m this directioni, appeared about four miles in len^h. In shape, it is very irregul'af, as it is bolinded by five distinct hills, separated from each other by an equal number of ravines, which, during the thaw, are w^ter-. courses, supplying the lake. Where it emptiesitself, the issuing stream is broad, and appeared to be sl^allow; ]^|g||| source seemed to be a rapid one, and its termination was in t^l^ to the tiorth- ward. ' ' ' ' The luunes of ihese hills as given by the guide are as follow, dii" ^npiiwhirtg thenl by thmr true bearings,^ from the centre of the lake: natnelyTtnat to the west is called Pood-le-ra-nuk, to the north-west" Il-l^-nuk, to the north-east Acrcood'le-ruk-tUk, to the west-sqjith- west Tak-ke-noo-ra-lig, and to the south Il-low-na-lig. Poo-yet-tah fbrther informed me that the lake contained three diflerent kinds of fish, which ijemain in it throughout the winter, that it was of great depth, and that in the smaller lake to the eastward, called , Ow'Weet-te-week, where the pq^y that first saw our ship in the September of 1829, had been encamped, there was also abundance of fish of a large si2se. • ^ y r • ;!il h 2ir SECOND VOTAOE Or DISCOTEBT n ' •*■ M''':, I / ^Leaving the water^side, we how ascended the high hill on the north-east side, called Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk; an8, on reaching its sum- niit, which we had surmounted soon after ten o'clock, Ijcould see the high rugged ice extending from the north!-,^orth-west-to tlfe north- east by ea^t. The hazy state of the weathet, however, linftited our view to a distance of four or five miles, so th^ it was impossible to ascertain the depth of an inlet, of which the 'entrance seented\to be , foHned by the separation of the spot on which we stSodV from a romarkable cape that we had named the Old Man of H6y, wha» oii our wuy to the southward during the preceding autumn, and ;^hich I had n<5' difliculty in recognising. This was the place where I had expected, if any where, to find the way open to the western Sfeifti since it was that wWeh^e natives had spoken of to us on several occasions^ or thus, at least, we imagined, as it was not very easy to come to a right understanding on this subject Th^e man, called Ib-lu-shee had indeed assured us that the opening at. this place was nothing but the mouth of a large bay, and that we must travel many days to the northward before we coidd find a passage to the westward; an assertion which made me .suppose, as I have already observed, that he could mean nothing but Barrow's strait But as we hgd not examined the present inlet, since ^ it was filled with fixed ice when we had passed in the preceding year, I thought it indispensable to t^ the present opportunity of doing this, that we might at least remove the natural uncertainty which we felt respecting it When, ho'wfcver, I came to examine the nature of the ice which now lay between us and the inlet in question, as well as the great distance that' it would be necessary to travel for that purpose, I found it impossible to undertake such a work at present ^Poo-yet- tah indeed became very anxious that we should return, as he saw that the north wind, with its driving snow, was rapidly increasing; but, as the haze seemed to be partially clearing away, I proposed . to him to descend to the beach, as I might hope thus to get a^ better view. , <^ * ^ This, however, h^ absolutely refused: but, as I fplt confident ftiat I could find my way without him, I went off, and teft him to foUoW his own inclination^' In about an hour and a half I reached the beach in question, which was formed of loose fragments of lime-stone, and found the tide out: while, as far as I could see, the ice consisted entirely of hummocky masses which had been closely Backed agaiAst the shore at the commencement of the winter. I had not gained much by my attempt to investigate this piece of ground; for the falling snow, and the thick haze oy which it was accompanied, obscured every thing in such a manner, that I could never see beyond two miles, if I even saw so far. The weather also became more qnpromising, instead of improving; so that I,4«soIved /\ TO THE ARCTIC BEGIONS. 213' to give up all further pursuit of this object, and turped my face to return to the hut where I had left my companions. ' On this, I immediately heard the voice of Poo-yet-tah hallooing from behind a -stone, close to me, and was not a little surprised to see him, whe|i I expected that he had been safely lodged in the hut Ji)y thisv time. I foundv that ho vhad followed me slily, to watch my proceedings; being desirous to know what coulU be the object of so long a journey from the ship as that which I had thus undertaken, and probably also conceiving that I had here sOme cJtfect of profit in view, in the finding of garho or fish, in which he wlis desirous of partaking. I had great trouble in trying to persuade him that Lhad no other, pursuit than that of seeing this place among others,' yet did not finally succeed in convincing him: since, however, possessing that k^oivledge of geography which is so general among these people, their pursuits and acquisitions (tf . this nature are all directed to the immediate and important end SB of another day, I determined to make the attempt, especially as the ( '■'".. , ^ ^,< . 1-- r r.' • 9 •,> \- * |;»»*"^->.» t • 216 ^ECOVD VOTAOE. 07 IJISCO' more ■favoi^ two , .^.. R* * weather began to improve, and promised to Ble every hour. ^ , . , It was, nevertheless, to the consideraiB^surprise bf our guides when we departed without them; apd as we occasifnally turned, to see whether they migl^t not charige their tninds,^ vj saw them abandon their work several times, „for the. apparent tiprpose of watching the route which we were taking, and the prc^*s that we made. The former was a subject <5f some hesitatioil^nd tfie latter far from rapid; since the recent gales had compleply ob]li^ terated ow forniier tcacks, and the fall o^snow had so altered the featu^s of the country in sqme parts, while other^.^ad been bared and rendered black by the storm, th^t I contmued ip 4^at uncer- tainty about the road, till, we arrived at the place called Nap-pur- re-i^-ta-lig. Here I immediately recpgnised the peculiar form of th^ lake, and thus founA that we had not Mterially deviated from our intended direction. * i> - • ' .• If our pr(^ress was small in prdportion to the time and exer- tion we .had spent m rea,ching this place, so were we exceedipgly fejl^gued,' and suffering extremely from thirst I was therefore obliged to unload the sledge in the middle of the lake, for the purpose of getting at the spirit lamp, that we might melt some snow for drink- mg ; whjch having done, we were soon refreshed^ and fit to continue ourjouiiey. It must appear strange to redders ignorant of these countries, to hear that the people suffer more firom thirst, when travelling, than from all the other inconveniences united. By us, at home, where • the snow cah never be very coU, where it can therefore be easily melted by tiie ordinary heat of the body, and where it can even bie eaten as a substitute for water, the very different temperature of tfie same substance in that country is qasily overlooked, as many persons are even ignorant of this fact No great inconvenience can occur as to this matter, where its heat is rarely much below the freezm^ point, and scarcely ever falls as low as twenty degrees. It is a very different thmg, when perhaps the highest tempe,rature of the snow during the winter months, is at zero, and when it often falls to minus fifty or more, or to eighty de^ees below the point at which we should attempt to thaw or to eat H^ in England. Were it not 80 bad a conductor as it is, we could> in this country, no more take it into the mouth, or hold it in the hands, than if it was so much red-hot iron: but, from that cause, this consequence at least does not follow. The effect nevertheless which it does produce, is that of increasing, instead of removing, the thirst which it is endeavour^ to quench : so that the natives prefer enduring the utmost extremity of mis feeling, rather thap attempt to remove it by the eating of snow. I am not sufficiently acquainted with medical philosophy to explain this, nor am I aware that- it has been explained; ana ill* is, perhaps, as unfounded, as it is, in me, presuming, to suggest that the MV ' TO THB ABCTIC RBOIOilS.. I 217 - . Wtreme c^^^tlie material thus swallowed, when the body is- y heated a^apMHsted hjr fatigue, may bring on some inflammatory state j$f|fP^mach, so as tQ cause the sunering in question. Resuming, our journey across the lake/ive found the travelling much improved by the late gales; a;td; soon after midnight, we • arritred at the hut, truly- exhaystedJby fatigue. In this condition,^it^ . wan an exceeding mor^cation to nnd that a wolf had torn off tlife • dodt with which we had secured its entrance, an4 that it was filled ' with snow. We wop therefore compelled to cl^mence digging, into it, tired as we wre; when, after an hour's? hard labour, we ' cc^trived to make it habitable for the nighty and got into out bags at two in {he morning. > ♦ 3d, When we aw<%e, aqd b^gan to bethink ourselves of depart- ing, the Weather was very unsettled and blowing in^ualls from the north; whilei fresh falling snow added to the obscurity and annbj^ce caused by that which was drifting before the wind from the faces of f the^hills. The dog? too were so tir6d, by the labours of.ffe preceding day, that nothing but my great anxiety to rejoin the shf and relieve the probable fears of Captain Ross and our other shipmates, would have induced' me to proceed. ' , , . We found the travelling extremdy bad : but the worst part of it, by far, wasn aafte* hadi , '• ice.olf thl^bay, we sair Jb-lu-sh^onting tu^^et^tiy^ %ppr6achBig wHh!m&|,cautioi^4f not ^,^m^\?^^ ^%^^ , ™. If th?s pHedm^xisteipM verylM^ £om ' that of hostility, trie f^t hp«panned\f ee^n^^ ^doubts, and I ther#f|Seted hijls Wijjpal % » * Wthe ship, we gbjt into the sledge, and arrivedon Mard the Victonr i'.;^ ^ at four in the morning of the fourth of May, dxd^dmgly fatigued, »**- IV r but otherwise in=gdbd health, ' \ ' - . » ' ..a ■r' .% -I i ;*« ■*"'- T-*;;-*- L ■■.*''-s-- ^ ■:. ,' ' . ' * 1k> 1 X f -3 V t's^ •TO THK ARCTIC SK0I0N8. A19 /. CHAPTER XXVL ^' .^ g now kily, at crack, "^ line bj^^ " iged to e were undcK- . , would ed, and mrades iTictory itiguedt T-v ■^ ' • '. "■ . ■ ■ ■ . , ■ ■ , , * Repetitim xtf hea^ siiou) — Another expedition by^Coifmander Ross-^- ' Jlnoiher expedition under my oum charge — Summi3.ry of the month (f April. !. - " - . • • ^ay 5tk. It was colder on this day than on the preceding, and there was a fre^h breeze. We were visited by a large paWy of nati^^^'from the northward, bringing some good skins for sale; There came afterwards from the westward, the two who had bcfen Commander*Ross's guides, on the last journey ; but they had not been able to bring in the other musk ox, and had not dS^n any more.' On the following day, another party came from^^ southward, bringing some seal, >and some skins; and, aftenYOTds, an old man whom we had not seen befom but who' was father to two of the boys whom we knew. His wtfe^ it seemed, had. left her last hus- band, of tluree, to live .with himOwid^ as far as we could make out, this was law, or usage equivalent tol^w.' Tikatagin also arriving, on his way southward, I engaged hiS?i to remaiu, that he .might accompany me in a tour on the loUm|F% ^^7* 7th. A heavy fall of sriow rfendemfthis journey impracticable: it would at least have been useless. Th^ guide himself was much more pleased to remain on board than ^9 travel in such weather. It was equally useless to proc^d the next 4ay» as every thing was buried in snow," but the gdde went away by himself to fetch his canoe. In the evening we received a visit from the stranger old man, his wife, and two children. The wife vvas a young one ; but ,w© found msit P'-had another, while the two young men had but one between them; the whole party living together. The^^e was also an old woihan with two husbands, unitmg to form this sfrange polygamous family; and we 'were assured mat matters went on with perfect harmony. Gff course, it req^ed more intimacy than we had yet attained with these tribes, ta understand thoroughly their'system of matrimonii anangements ; but \^hat we thus already '"^ew.vauffi*"^ toM^iia^tOT^ that the history which Caesar ,h»9 jfi^^^^WiX^hn&mors on this suliject, is no| so lintrae as it hd#i>eeri sometime^1^6u»i^ "'idthl A northerly >WMid, As usual, brought the, thermometer from ^ro up to 18*. ^Sunday service b^g perfowned,* the man whp had tone for his caftoe returned i^idP^the frame on^i^ ^ck,.h&ving royght it fi«m Stetg-a-voke. He wag prd»fisd¥a nevi^^iiOHOp for it, if he would bring us a seal ; and;. preferring^ to tj^avel at-. night, set off at ten tj'clocfc" A fox wag^t^ken in one of jthe trapi^, °v- , .^t^enin^e ^■■^ _j'_ ,P >-i ^^v;^■■^ :'>*A . , »l y ■'■'W V-' 1 . ■, , V 280 SSCORD VOTAOE OV DMCOVKRY ' ' '■ . .-.-■■-.,.. lOiA. The weather continued cold; but when the snow ceased, it was clear. A party went to the great lake to measure the ice, which they found to be eight feet thick, and the water seventeen fathoms deep. They saw no fish, but baited and set some lines. The tern- . perature continued again far lower than was to be exrccted at this season; giving us some disagreeable anticipations. Some natives brought a skin. The traces of reindeer and hares were seen, and eight snow buntings killed. At the end of our base line, soundmgs were obtained in 90 fathoms. . , 12th. AH the power of the sun, with a clear sky, could not raise the temperature beyond 11°. No filh were found at the lines, but / a ptarmigan was shot Two of our chief friends among the natives / arrivii^, arrangements were made for a new journey. Some moi^ camelromthe south, on the following day, but brought nothing; they went on to the northern huts; and, finding that this party was gone 6n an expedition, returned to sleep on board. The therrnometer raiiged between 1° and 15°. 1 ^ i4th. Nearly the wl^ole of the northern party came to tiS, and ' brought the head and skin of the second musk ox ; but as it had lost the hind legs, it wai spoiled as a specimen. They also brought the remainmg quarter, or rather hatinch, which weighed forty-three poOnds, together with some skins, and a specimen of a greenstone chisel IsiS. Our only success in sporting was a. single grouse. We- Had stipulated for a seal, for our dogs, but they did not arrive on the next day : having probably been unsuccessful. Every thing was , t^ arranged to-day for the contemplated jourtiey on Monday. The fitting of the ship went on; but the condensing tanks were now re- moved, aSiSeing no longer necessary. i' , 16^. Church being held as usual, a large party (^e from the northward, and another from the southern village; biif iiey brought no se4, nor aught else. The last set infohned us that they ^^^erd'to break up the next day, and to divide into two parties ; one for hunt- ing the musk oxen, and the other for fishing in the lake. Ehch promised to bring us suppUes before thfey took leave. TIfc thermome- - ier was about 10°; V7th. The men and the leading mate went on with the sledge and the boat, for the purpose of transporting them a stage of ten miles, ^ when the men who were not intended to proceed Were to return. ^ This they did in the evening ; on which, Commander Ross and the 'surgeon proceeded in the small sledge, to join the Wate and the advancecf party. No supplies arrived from the natives, nor did we see any of them. On the following day it becaipe so much warmer that the thermometer rose to 30°, and small pools of water appeared on the rocks, under the influence of the sun.v The eyes of the men who had constituted the party of the last expedition had been inflamed by their journey, and they were taken care of accord- ingly. .*' ^]inh: T hft Miry>enn i ^umed. with the mate, firom ^e detached eyes pure of pi /. were "^^nue ^. and -* i 1 jf TO THE ABGTIC KBOIOKS. 2S1 igwas, ^ The party, which he had left about Menty miles off, under the care of two Esquimaux; bringinuH^ck their sledce and dogs. The mate's eyes were so much al!eKed^t^mt he could not proceed. They had purchased food for the dogs^-ffUm the Esquimaux; and their stock of provisions was increas^by tharetum of oiu" two officers. We V, were pliSased to find, on the followmg^ day, that the weather con- ""ffinued fo favour their expedition. The different patients were better, - and vire proceeded to lay gravel round the ship and over the Kru- senstem. 21st. The sun could not raise the thermometer beyond 19°; and on going t<> the hole which had been made in the lake, it was found covered vfiih ice six inches thick; the ice of the lake itself being seven feet apd a half The baits were untouched; and our other search after game was unsuccessful. On the following day we ascer- tamed that the ice near us had not increased in thickness, though there were four inches fo^ed in the hole. The track of a musk ox was seen on the ice not far from us. A summer tent was made, and some sails repaired. 23d. This Sunday was the anniversary of our departure from England. The musk ox furnished us with fresh boiled and roast meat for the whole crew. It had no more taste of musk than before; and, having been longer kept, was more tender. During their walk after church, the men tracked a white bear, as well as some ban* and grouse. In the evening, Ikmallik, the geographer, with his wii and family, and two other men, arrived, with the intention of atten4-„ ing Commander Ross on his expedition, and were much disappoiifted to find that he had been so long gone. It appeared that He had mis- , calculated the day, counting ten instead of five. We therefore engaged them to follow or meet him with provisions, within a week;> at which they were much pleased. We^ also borrowed a dog from them, as our own were all absent, in case we shmild meet the bear that had been marked. They had been unsuccesaiil in seal hunting, but had discovered some holes, and hoped shortly to Imrig us an animal for the dogs. Each of the men received a fish-hook as a pre- sent; and the wife a pincushion. One of the men gave proof of^ his parental affection, by giving his stockings to his boy, who had ster- ■ ped into a pool of water, and going barefooted home. '^ 24.' -t "^«2a SECOND VOTAOH, OF DI9COVBBY u^ %,,. N. % ice, in a ii ■■|||Bli||imn oridndly Jate in freezing, in, conse- quence ImMtl^MwF^ "." '' ^^^ "® ''"'^ "**''^® ® thick,j The tem^^ffiPB^^ed rising on the following day, yet slowly? , and th^Sto, being the highest we ha^l seen this yqar, was 20°. At/ the hoTCst mentioned, I found a carrent running a mite an hour t« tho'ea$tward, with ten fathoms water, which waS less salt than that neaK the ship. The footmarks of deer continued to tantalize us:.- it was difficult to guess how thag£ig|8||^'' P*«« *? *^'* manner, so >ng, without being seen. -^^^'T'^^V^ # > „_ 28senc^ duringIthej|H)editfesm.whicfi h^had undertaken, tefminatedin con- ' gratiMionML aO^t of % safety ariftsucoeM. Jhs guide had conducted hsf to tife narrow channel leading betweeirthe two seas, ittd he badtdctei-mined its latitude to be such as to, give forty-five iniles to the^no^Jtour position; being in one of those inlets which icould not be-TOPed, on 8m3c Jfct of ihe ittsituat®! a httie to the , northwa^dof EBzabetbLliarboitfaHe^? it.was prd^ble|iUt Q^pe Manson woBld be foiana to form^ north-east frntg^mmca, supposing the jsea to^ii^ cOBtmullPto i^pe Turnagain^v^ ? ^ me ^ploriij|orth«i|t'tov:iiie bprlhward of Pad-le-ak bay, together wilh that tp thMbvit of »% had further been the work ' sSSf the s^p^^^ccr, as'M^eipiUe6. In hi^^ournal, will be foimd I mtail nee»l not lier^, i^pat, respecting the commencement ot this kpeditiori;-and the litt%>bstrtictions which it expe>ienced at the ' outeet And if r rreed not^notice thes© and sbpne other matters rejat- "inftfo the outfit, »i) is it unoecegsary/to give^any suminary of our ti^ansac^bns with the natives, during this Unonth, since they mclude t: .« -- 4. ■'%: TO THE ABCTIC REGIONS. V 223 The temperature of May was considerably below that mean of the former expeditions with which I have "so often compared our own monthly ones, Ibeing only plus 15°; while that at Port Bowen was 17° 65, and the mian of the four different places 16°. This augured but illfor our speedy release: but y/e were willing to think, that having taken better care of our thermometer, it had only shown a lower temperature because the others had been managed with less attention to a true result. . . . • We had been constructing lee boards for our ship, with the inten- tion of making her more weatherly; and our labours in refitting the rigging were in a state of great torwardness. Many observations, of various kinds, had been made u e -■ As yet there was no appearance of scurvy; but two or three ol the men showed just enough of threatening to make us fear that they would not be long exempt, wless we obtained a more ample supply of fresh provisions during the coming summer. The snow blindness was not more common among us than with the natives: and, in other tespects, the health of the men was good. We had not succeeded in procuring much game: while, in reality, we were too steadily occu- pied to allow m6ch time for this pursuit But I must hot forget, that, in this month, we completed our twelvemonth's absence from England. It had been an eventful year, Ifcut far froto an unsuccessful one. We had done much by sea; and it must notbe forgotten, that even a year of sea in these climates is little better than a month of action, as it cannot well be more, in the valud^or extent of its results. They who live in our own England, cannot understs^nd how a year, or years, are expended with a pro- egress so small as that which has attended all these northern explor- UH^Byages:' if they would translate the word year into month, it wdBenable them to form juster conceptions of these voyages, and of the actual time expended on the results which have been obtamed. But we had also done somewhat by land; with the prospect of doing much mor«, should the sea fail- us: and, while there was one view, at least, holding out hopes in which we could scarcely be dis- "• .-1 ^L^__ _r ♦fc^- ».1.:<.K nn tho avf^raaP! of chaUCCS, antici- and little neither appointed, as there was anpther, which, on the average might have been equally gratified, if far less promising i nation, we had reason to be content with our present prospects. The year, too, had been passed busily, and discomfort as was well possible: there had been dangei . frequent nor extreme; and, with constant occupations, not weU Ukely KkSI us, we had riot the day to kill, nor the loss of time to regret ToMd that our crew continued in really good health, notwith^nd- ing 4^ trifling evils just mentioned, and that no one had suffered during so long a navigation and so bitter a season, was not the least source of satisfaction: the case of the unfortunate armourer not beii^ a genuine drawback on this state of things, if the loss of the stokers arm in Scotland ought perhaps to be enumerated among our contin- gencies. , r T '#" '.J!^ I — ^ ^ — w~ l^ w 284 SECOHD VOTAOB W DISCOVERT CHAPTER XXVII. Expedition ctmmenbed—JVarrativeefourJourneif — Return to the ship — Observations made to obtain the difference of the elevation of the easiern and western seas— The dip of the needle, and intensity of magnetic force. May Sist The weather was foggy during the journey of this day, so that I obtained no good views of any jpart of t|ie land, except a rock iresembling the Bass island off the Firth of Forth. We saw lour gulls dnd an owl; and proceeded along a rocky coast to the south-west- ward, skirted with large islands, very much resembling some of the shores of Sweden, between Gottenburg and Strttmstad. We passed within them all, in a clear channel, wide isnbugh for large ships, and clear of icebergs. At seven in the morning we arrived at the huts, seventeen miles from our vessel: all taking an equal share, officers and men, in the heavy, work of drawing the sledge, which, for the last four miles, was considerable, as the snow was mid-leg deep. The men were much fatigued r and the mate, Blanky, could go no further. But having lights a fire and made some coffee, they were enabled to proceed to uie next place, containing the huts, at twenty- two miles from our ship.- Accordingly, at eighty we set forward; and, the fog. having cleared away, I obtained some views of the land. We arrived before eleven, where we found seven of the natives, who supplied us with water, but had no meat remaining. As we calculated on getting their dogs for a few miles further at least, to assist ouir labours, we pitched our tent to make bur meal, being breakfast and dinner conjoined. We soon, however, discovered that they vyere going imm.ediately in the «ame direction as ourselves, and were thus to be so heavily la(^n that they could give us no assistance; since it would take themselves /two days to get to the first place at which they could expect food. * They departed accordingly, at one o'clock. I procured some ob- servatibns at poon, determining the latitude, among other things, at 60° 59', and the longitude at 92° 1'. At five, an old woman whose avarice had procured her the nick- # name of Old Greedy, passed us to the southward, with three dogs drawing a seal-sldn fuU of blubber, virhich she was to deposit in ad- . -^ •■ ■' # > /■i* f A '9 M TUT AaCTIO BMIIOim. M« tlMioe} but we couW not prevail on her 1o lend us one of her tean^ Our present position was consiilerably picturesque, being surrouwlea by rugged mountains anA^islandis in every direction except to the north^astwanl The corneal hills to the north-west were iwirtially covered with snow; and at the foot of the nearest, was a detached rock not unlike a milestone, on ,which we found inscribed* by our preceding party, "twenty miles from Vi^ry." All the rocks ap- peared to be of granite; but we also fou»*fra^ent8 of limestone: every thing seemed to be what we had mmd it since first making this coast. The men being fatigued, they were sent to rest till eight o'ciiOcka June laL We had started at ten o'ck)ck on the preceding nightj but we went first to a hut, a mile off, to seek for an dte t|At hod been buried by the surgeon tnd the mate, on the former ei%0ditioo. We searched itt vain, ats the natives had probaUy taken it av*ty, and we wei« tfMM si^arccly under wikytHl midnq^ht Landing at the bot- tom of this ehannd, we proceeded soutfi-w«stward, and, nt the dis- taoce of ha)f a mik>, reached a lake about forty feet above the level of the seaTfoBowiM the bed of the river to it, as that was still froaen oiver. It was only tfiroe-quarters of a mile wide, and about two hun- dt«d yards in breadth; beipg surrounded by precipitous cliffs. Fol- lowing lipwards from it. We came to^^ another of nmilar dimensions^ a huSred feet higher, which dischargeis itself into the one below* Thntee proceeding in the same direction till wte had attained thirty fm toon of elevation, we deseeded about ninety feet to the sea of the gulf of Shag-a-voke, and about seven miles fr<«Bi its entranfee. By means of a seaUhole, w* found the water to be silt, and crossed thb part of the bay near an island where the natives deposit their caaoes and winter stores. Tlw land here changed its character, thougb the rocks were the same; tf» whole surface b^ covered w^th fragmekkts of granite aind limestone^ and thus presenting a most draary a*l barren appearance. ReacWng the land, we stiU pursued ih aouth-westerly direction* up the channel of a river, and about a mile «iiiwanl% at an elevatron of about fifty feet; and at length arrived at > emaH lake* part of which was covered, above the ice, by water. Hire we met the old woman nstuming with her dogs^ having depo- ailidher load. Gh bemg ouebtioned^ about the axe, she confessed ^* that she waa of the party that had stoten it* and that it was in pos- ifciribiioftwoofll^menattheeMtemhutsJ > Haviur passed this lalt*; wt then beU our way over anotlifer of ^m^wK aiKl asptwt^b^Mided by kwer hind, which was, how- l^ver, equally com^re^Ppf blo«iks «f stone, some of them in very istic shattes.'' Thl%M^^>ut twein^ feet M than the former; «», Iblkiwingthe windii(i|l^,.the h^ foi-iittule, we came to the uBrth-easteiii end' of the great hdMi which- seemed eleven or twelve UnOeaiil kawtk WW soott found the huta of > 1:1 ^k H 8d8 SECOlTD yptAOE 0f SISOOVBRX. ■f: i ^ - - . ■ ,. ■ they were still built o( mow f>as before, but, were now covered with skins. The people denied all knovi^ledge of the axe, slnd said it was in possession of the old woman.' Proceeding on the lake, after this, we found a ridge of icebergs' on it, differing much in aspect from^ those of the sea: but here we were obliged to stop for ?e8t and re- -^freshment; some of the party being much fatigued. * . . , We set for\yard again at half-past five, and, soon \after ei^t^ ar- ' 'rived at an island in Qie middle of the lake. Thf/ijnen, hbwever, i|?! were so^much tired, from the sinking of the sledge into thq soft snow, ^ that >^e wene obliged to stop; lighting our fire and cooking pur din- ner, without pitchmg our tent The time, required in melting snow \ ' for drink, detained us so long, that we did not move sigsun till 'ten ^ o'clock; the weather being clear, with a gentle breeze. We saw ' • some reindeer, as we had done at our first resting-place ott the day ' before, but had no opportunity bf'fiifhig at them, from the distance at whicK they passed us; By midnight, wo hadTeached the end of " * the lake, not without much' labour, as the'way was very bad. We now travelled south-eastward for a mile, and ,gained what we , judged the highesfc elevatfon on our ttj^ck, which 1 conjectured to be .three lyundred feet above the level o^the seoi Thence ^e soon cam^'to a harrow lak^ lending in the same direction, which Drought UiB in sight of 0ie western sea at Padliak, arriving at it afte'i^ a descent of a mile. Hei^ we« found Ol^e^of the Esquimau* packh^g up to pyo- ' ceed to the summer huts^bout two miles oflT." I halted totake angles and make observation^ while I also measuu^ the height of the Mike above the leVel ofl^e so.a: thus, too, allowing the men that rest* of , * : which they were miidi i» need^^ The' lanld apout this bay was 'l%iy rugged, and generally bare of snow; while numerous stones were -. set jiip in several pladeS, as if to represent m^n; ofteh- presenting very ^ 4v grotesque resemblahces. ° * < "• ■ •''*l^ " ' Thus far-we had;folloWed themarks'of GommanderTloss's sledged / ifel M ■if- :\- i^.-' :*", / ' 1 Of this wAve 4heir own, hayi used the hones sledge rtiarks,' ' towards the a sure, ..knowing that, a» the natives had none of' eaten_ those whioh "wilre mado of fish;. and having the others to make rafters for their tents. *Th6se lowever, now tuAied off to the north-westward, ^ foi;ming the northern boundary of this bav: but ^il was bur buaness- to steer eastvi^rd for^the island where, we had aj^ed tod^sit the provisions) ai^ which was visible, about three miles OflTln our way, «we rrtet two of» our Esquiniadt j^ends, < going -m the t)pposite direction, witli three dogs| (drawing a skint .*and, biing much th:ed, I ,. offered |h^ a knife if Uiey woukl juNsist'' us with ttheir- animals and show as wh«ft« to catclffish.,|^ , ,f • , Thi^/being agreed to, wrf proceeded to arrange matters, When I that, among other things, the skin bag contain^ a fine haunch inison, which w^purchased foi; a file, without difiicuhy. Huiu;ry soon revive, even at the prospect of ^ good dinner; and, in hatt hour, W6 were at the appointea iiland. K-wls fi very small iueV ■ Kf i ">. 4.' iffiA. # .- %'■ TO THlB ARCTIC BBQldva. 8«r about two hundred feet long, and of half that breadth ; being a mile from the shore v/he9k the native houses were built We found it to consist of ^anite, covered with fragments of limestone, and with large blocks of both kinds of rock; out were letter pleased at its ^offering h very convenient place for our tent, which was pitched without delay. The employment of tookins our .venison furnished > us with those pleasures of anticipation whicn fhey aloiie feel, who have no fears of any sinist£if chances between "the cup and the lip;" while it was satisfactory to find that the .seller, wiyi his file, seemed iRdly as happy as we who were rbgaling on the dinnoj^ M^ich it had fumisQed.^ \ We were informed that Comnnat^der IjEo^S had gone toward the north ; and tl^ drew, on the ice, the sh^ipe of the land to the north- ward of .the, cape, called by* ^hem, Kingairuick ; which I copied, noting all their names of places., This* cape had' been previously naliied Isabella, byjpomnD|mder Ross. The man, TiJi^shU, an old friend, soon cam^; and gave us permission to fi«h in the hole that he had made in thd'ice, about two hundred yards from us. Another of them went off itx the night, and made another hole, which thought fitim hiVn for4viro hooks : and here we afterwards, caught two dozen of flonalj fish, sussed to be cod, in three fathoms water ; the native nam^ tjeing Irrlktu. This was'nam^ Spence Bay, iji compUment to ihy relation of that name. .'" ' ' . find. We allowed oqr people to sleep till six in the rfioming. xcept myself, every one -was suffering from "^ sore eyes, and they ere therefore kept within the tent ; while. iny work Was. to fish,, ^)6k^aWf and Inake' observations. O^^ dinner being of fisli soup, was irf acceptable novelty, since we had not aSen such fare for many m6nths..The W^th«i%was ^warm enough to melt snow, on the rocks, 4q]c dfinlyng, wM|ut the laboui- of artificial thawing. 1 here made awme observations on the dip of the magnetic needle. This bay is ten miles wide at this part, and is fidl of small is)ets. At three in * the morning a party arrived and pitched their tents a little to the south of us; promising to bring us fish, in which, however, they dis- af^inted us» having beeaunsuccesstuL In the evening I repeated the ob^rvations on the dipLof the ma^pltic needle and the intensity (,,: of its force. ' ^ f ' ' - * The Uiird of June W^jS a very fine my, tmd we were employed in fishing. We caught a dozen (^fish; >vhidhi ^ere' carelessly depo- L sited m reach of one of the dogs^ by whidh they were, very naturally, 4udevoured. Two of the nflh were unable to see at M, from the efftict of the snow. Tl]e chief mate was better. Thf tide, in a hole furnished! with a measuring line, rose only fourteen indjies; aifa we remarked that we caught no fish except during the hf^t sunshine. . It is to be suspected, that in the^^ frozer^Jieas and lakes, they are in a torpid ^tate during the extreme coldi and that they are rouse^ , like the ddnnouse, on the^Occasionai occurrence of heat. * f» ^it ^ 1 >' . >^' .4V-J i t* -^..•►.. I y , J- (. '.**.-. -Mil >•* rrv. — ^ 4*^4*»ywt ii.i.Ti'i ..Jil f"ir*wi»i4"lfe-?' f*"' '4'^viih-'**-*^-^-'*^*--^ A 'i' .« ■•i/^ ^ i.^'i ; P4 ■■ '! 938 SECOKO voTAoa 09 mwoywMT * *,' The men being blind' for th^ present, from the effects of inflain> mation, and the native not having brought the promised do^ I w^ compelled to remain. I caused a htJe to be made in the ice, and found it seven feet and a quarter thick; being very nearly what U was at the ship when we came away: hut there bein^ onhr six fiaet water in depth, we had a proof of the great irregUlanty . and mi^t be, well enough to return to the ship. by the time I had finished my short Oxpeditioh. Thie surgeon was well enough to go with me, but I thought it right to leave him, to take care of the rest We set out acconUn^y, at seven o'clock, accompanied by another native, who was to deposit some blubber at Neitchillee. Proceeding to the southward, we passed the mouth of a river named Kett^ara, and also two stations called Owhyahriu and Oaheushrek. ^x miles further, we came to a fine clear spring of «vater, called Amitioke, rising through sand, and much warmer than the thawed snow, of course; whife we found that it had considerably overflowed the sur- rounding land during the winter : a sufficient pfoof of its high tempe- rature, which, unluckily, I had no means of asc^rtaiiiii^.. Looking from the river in which we now were, the west bank, of which was low and flat, we coukl see the mountain of NatchiUde, and in the reverse directiop, other hi^.land, whence a ridge seemed to ym the formed', taking, af^ thi8,«a south-west direction. Proce^ng now down the Amitioke, which was still frozen, and a hundred yards wide, we arrived at its entrance into the great lake , of Neitchil|ee;^bevond which, at the distance of hfclf a mUe, is the eSit of the river that leaves ^is lake;^ course of which iK9 couhi trace in a south-east direction, as far as the eye could discern ^y »«• -■♦,.;, •*.j ■■'- ■•■ t ' * • V .J 'Ai^- r' * .<,' / •■ *■ \ •- TO TBS ABCnC UKOIOITS. S89 /tliuu^ On the west side there was a plain; but on the' eastern one the land was high, with the two insulated mountains of Neitchiltee , and Tulluktok. The name Neitchillee is equally ghren to the Iand,4he river, the liake, and the village, or jsettlements, of the natives. Therd' were here houses for both seaeops: the usual snow huts, namely] ^mounting to twenty-one, and the summer houses, some of ^hi^ h^d circles of stones nearly three feet high, forming a g^fp of thirty. TKe largest of these was an oval of fourteen feet by twelve. The surface wa$. here^^ covered by the bones of the animals which the iphabitants had eaten. I took the Esquimaux who had conducted us hither, to ascend the mountain With met'tind, in our way, found a' wolf that had been p£ir- .suing a large heed of reindeer. It took t# flight on seeing us; to the joy of the guide, who was afraid it might have carried x>1f one of his ^ung dogs. The colours, which had been carried up for that pur— — pose, were placed on the top, with the consentn^ the natives, and thence I had a most extensive view. The termination of the extensive fHOce of water beneath ns, towards the south-west, was invisible; but it was bounded by flat land on each side, on which t could count hundreds of reindeer. To the northward, the rivejr Amitioke was seen for a long space towards its .source, when it was lost among the distant mountains. The land in that direction was higher than that on which we stood; and a stream, running from itmr^ ugh a ravine, formed a cascade, which, presenting nothing but its cCmpB^ — cated pendants of icicles instead of falling waj;er, produced a very lingular effect. The name of the Viscountess Melville was given to this remarkable scene. ' .^^ After descending, I measured the b^dth of the nver op^site to idr€tt*ifeet? with a depth df thirty.' the huts, and found.it to be two Jiund I was informed that there were many rapi(is and water-falls betwe6n the lake and the eastern sea, and that a 4:anoe coald not ascend. The guide said ^at there was. also a river a^ the other end, which, hte believed, was not navigable, and which ran into the western s^a; but that it was very far off. The altismateOfeifect of the; sunshine and the cold on the/ace and hands, blistere<(^^ skirv while I wtfb here employed in sketching the land. Ha ving* finally t«(k^ a meridian observation, I quitted NeitchiUe^^-at one o'<5lockl i' . ' We saw many cranes ai)d plovers; but having unfortunately iost my stock of percussion caps after shootii% a snipe, I codd fire no more; to the great surprise of the natives, to whom I could dnly ex- cuse Aiyaelf by pretending snow blindness; hot v^i^iing thepito sup- pose that out' fire-arms could ever be disabled or useless, /his loss ' proved sttU more vexatious on the passage of a doe' q^d,nerfawn», which came within twealy yards of the sledge;' at the sight of whiich temptation, greater perfetps to them than even to a deer-stalktiif of my ovrn country, they encouraged me to fire^ with 'loud yocifera- '* ^ 3?Ws, iH«fc#»imatfiSy, was imp9ssible: ^id the dogs,bi-< If i *% "■'m . r 4' * m- V '■' -. I: . #■ SECOND VOTAOE OV DlSCOVfiBT the restraint in which they were held, set off in chace, with the sledge at their heels, but were soon stopped by its becoming entangled among the stones. : » . • Having arrived at our tent at five o'clock, the guide was paid: on ' which he departed, after beinff informed that we would call on them in our way hoii^ards. It \fas satisfactory to find that the people, were nearly Recovered, and that we had still provisionsLuntil Sunds|,y.° ,. ^5?^ Another note for Commander Ross was now deposited iindpr a cairn f^: ,. which we erected: informing the natives that it was a marjc for th^ • ivf , ■ ship^hich would hereafter be useful to them as well as to duris»lves, •''I* ;:., and receiving their promise not to "Jjull it down. I . i.j; ' ,■ At nine p'clock we struck our tent in'a thick fog; and, departing . ,•:''. ^t eleven, called at the'huft according, to promise. We found, two - airs of the inmates, each a man and his wife, in their respective^^ ' ads, with a trough of boiled fish and oil between them,' on which* >1 ' "^\- ■- . " ^ ' ■ * * ■ *..J. . i ^^they were feeding, much Uke swine, their faces and hands being ;be- daubed with this odorous compound. Another native^then arrived with a seal: and as it was he,,yrhom I had directed where to find those animals, he seemed to, think that I skould. claim a share, but was soon, relieved of this fear by my refusal, v^hich produced voci- ferous th^ks. ' To turn this gratitude to some ■account, I desired him to deliver a note to Commander Ross, which T accordingly wrote; informing him, for the third time, ofAhe place of the provisions left for him,* 'and of other matters; promising tllso. to the Esquimaux, that the de- Jivery of this letter would be rewarded by- a fish-hook. We then parted, on the most«friendly terms, after I had presented each of the women with a sixpence JBo ha.ng round tl^eir- necks; one of them ^ giving is a cothplimentary convoy Along shoi^ for aboat two miles. We ha3 here found the nStive who had been ill of a sore throat- xsome^onths before; and" the phial of medicine he hs^d received was ". hanging frorp his neckj^surf ounded by other ornaments. It did not seem to have been Jperi^d, and had probably been kept as a cham. In return for it, seeiiW^thht th^ surgeon w^s suffering from toothach' and. a swelled face^hp^proceeded instantly to his own mode ofciire, by tapping the chejek'.firee times, and blowing as often in the pa- tient's face. That ttei doctor shortly recovered is certain; and if it was by means of the charm, it is not the first time that toothach has been 'cured in the same manner. , 5th. The men being now quite recovered, we continued our journey viri(h spirit, in firie and clear weather. At seven, we reached the no^h-east ^nd of the great lake called Teijgriak, and pitched our tent; the sun being very powerful at eight o'clock in the morning. Our breakfast was called supper, becajise we had inverted ^e usual Order of things by going to. bed at nine. The snow had been deep as we came, but it was n^w just enough frozen at'i^ surface to prevent our light sledge fro^ ^H^S through it. V » ' ■ :V.* ' ' a « . ■ W 01 . b< n of . b: ■'«p " '■ • Vi .; K .... ' '^w ■ ' . •■.■■« ...'">■«' oi ■ -■, '.SC ♦ :■*. -■ •'■. ^ re "• • '■ w • . ■ *th hi . Vi . ol ■ -■' ;th til a re th ■':- ^.' dl " pc - th ; . 'S< a ic ra ' w \4 M. TJ- i_ L .***'Hr^?'^*'Kfc«. /■/ 'V ^i ■•**■ ■^ TO ^Hs •il^ ^9t ^ Js great lake,: which is ten n..,«„ .....g, ^^^^,.^^^0^ ^^ ^„y « ,„u„ wide in some places, l?ecau§Ht include^-a chain'oTislands; but, in other parts, it seems three of wur miles in breadth, an4 'may indeed » te niore. The icebergs »n it had probably bed© collected into thp ridge which crossed froncj side to side, by the "Storms in the early part ' of the winter. The flattisl^, latids fomid it \bre ^ptfll «iuch covered 'by snow. We clepartcd once more, at seven in the afternoon, having made- ' what was terined our breakfasf^. the weather being fine and clear. - ,."'*y"'? crossed two lakes, we sfTrived- at. the gulf of Shag-a-Voke, which is the upper e !. #«, ■*%"' '»»■"•*<' V - ■ ^' • t' "^ * ' ««l SECOHD'yOTAOS OV DtSCOVBKT ^f %■ \ and covered with vegetation, resembling the two facet Of a bastion, which j)roved, on examination, to be an alltiviu(n deposited at the meeting of two streams. How often such deposits have bfeen mis- taken for Roman and other enca,mpments, in our own couni||;^|i8 well known. ' ,■ -'"ff The great inlet near this place measured about two thousand feet at the narrowest part : and, from this position, we saw the entrance of the bay, three miles off, being the outer part of Shag-a^voke. The north side of this opening descended gradually to a low point projecting eastwjird; the southern one continuing four miles more m the same direcfaon, and then trending to tboi^uth-east This side appearedxdear of rocks and islets; but off di$ other,- there was d rock, verjKremarkable, which, with two other islands, were named after mv friend, T. Tilson, Esq., and his daughters, M^*en in the plate; w'hile, farther north, there were three islets, takiw^an easterty direction, which seem nearly joined to the main at |ow%rater. We arrived at the soiAhemmost of these islands at seven in the morning; and at this "time the action of t^ sun on the snow bad reiklered travelling very difficult : the prop^r^ time, in reality, being the night ;''whence ouHnversion of day and night for the purooses of rest and sleep. The tent was here therefore pitched, afld tha men allowed to rest and eat, while I made some necessaiy observa- tiOhs for" the latitude, but was obli^d to refer those for the liestimony to this is required than the experi* «mce of 4he men who work.in the iron foundries. That is the ha^st work which fells to a man to do: and so well do the labourtjSin this department know that they cannot perform it, if they drink even i)eer, tnat Aeir sole beverage during all the hours of this hot and , heavy labour, is water; If London draymen s^jid coalheavers are of a different opinion, every one knows the resuk; as the self-itiduigence which leads to tliis luxurious and profligate practice is not less known. It is not that I am declaring myself an advocate for temperance societies, whatever may be' their advantages, nor that I am desirous of copying a practice lately introduced into some ships, under what- ever motives: but were it in my power, as commanding ^ vessel, I wodd exclude the use of grog* on the mere grounds of its debilitating ■ effects, and indenendently of any ulterior injury which it may do : reserving it for those cases alone in which its use may be deemed l(|Bdicinal, or, for any special reasons, useful. .Such is the account of this journey: but as it contains no register of the proceedings at the ship for so many days, I must resuinc that once more from the firist of Jmie, the records having been made, in My absence, bv Mr. Th6m. , - 31, _i^:r— \ If I J V'. %*l • %- \« «■« \ :W^ ^ -^ 234 '■i^■^f'■■^l^ >in>^7 J^-s-^ Jf , ^^ SECOHD VOTAOB Of OI8COVXRT " f*'*'"*'^ p.-pj^^-^^j5^.3^^w , . ..•K i, ii! 'I :4' CHAPTER XXVIII. Proceedinjgs in the ship from the first of June— Commander Rovft return. ' e IsL, The men were at work at the leeboards. The th«r- moraeter at 27°, with a ftjg. On the following day the caulking^proceeded, and the dead i^es iwrere pre^ring for the mainmast. Three grouse were shot, and the thermometer rose to 29°. On the third there was Uttle change in the heat; the work in the ship still going on. On the fourth much of the snow was disserved round the ship ; the siin now having gfeat power. A party of natives came to it, including the wood^-leggbd man, who, having iH^oken his new leg, was drawn by dogs» on a seal-skii^^jUiMr fish sled^ having been eaten. He was repaired l^ tJte carpenter, and departed The ther- mometer WIS 27" at mitkiwiit. TheNjsual work about the ship occu- jMed the foinmM^ day as wU as the present, and the temperature did not matenaily chai^iek. iKi- Being Sunday, the church service was read, as it had haea during my presooce on aoard. A party of seven men, with the car* penter, was afterwards wm to tk^ southwmrd, with directions for d^Msitii^ a si^ly oi pvovisions at the fk^taff, vihete we found it; and also in ue ht^iies oi meetipg me, should they be a^^le to extend their walk far eoougk They returned, after travelling seven miles ia wa purpose as fiu^ a» that was concerned. 7IA, This was the dav jb which we refined the ship, after f^ absoice of eagnt days ami a half, and I may here resume my own joiiniaL SAk. I fcHiad the thermom^er to-day at J^, and tfie work on the ship goii^ o|u The snow was rapi(% and steadily minting durk^ the day, and the appearanoe <^ the land was, in coaiiaqueKe, Ctly changed. The rigg^ of the nain and fore mMts was advancing; wid the heat rose as high as .V fitUu^ id 31° m the ni^t oi the tbflowmg day, which found the ibretofHnaat ^t a|b apd Ae bowspjk better secored, by new work. f l(K|j|l. ift ad<£tion to the progress of our other work, we c«t a hde" iu'^tbb' ice above the KruMoMun, but cooIA mI ipot a t^ of hat. It • * • m * A- 4 V n. .' e Ai ff * * * ' - ' k > . .. . ft #r, )* " " " NiT' •> ..* r _ ». i. _, "9^ "m^ i' ^ ~^^^ TO TBM ABOTIC RXOIOn* »W such was thd depth^MMef which she was for the present buried. A hare and four grounPnvinE been killed, were found to have acquired their summer plumage and coating, llth. The ice 'became more and more covered with water, daily; though the thermometer had rather sunk for the last thi%e days. ' 12th. The canvas roof was entirely removed this day, and a sum- mer awning spread. It was cloudy; and the first riain of this season fell in the evening. ~ The torrents were seen running down the hills, and numbers of ducks and brent geese made their appearance fot the first time. The several kinds of animals, I need scarcely now say, form a calendar of the year m this country, as the flowering of plantd does in our own ; where the emigrations of birds, if I except the swallow, nightingale, and cuckoo, are little noticed in comparisons On Sunday, a heavy fall of snow came on, early in the morn- ing; aiid, lasting till night, the ground was once more covered. At- eight P. M., Commander Ross and his party returned, all in good health. They had trayelled along tht coast that led .westward, a hundred miles west of NeitchiUee ; estlfiblishing the continuity of the continent as far as the '99" of longitude, and in latitude 70°; being about a hundred and fi]fty miles to the westward of our present posi- tion. They had also travelled along the coast about twenty miles to the westward, north of the inlet xvhich enters on the westward of ' the isthmin. In returning, they found that' my deposit of provisions for them had b^n pap'% eaten and partly.4estroyed by the natives; but they still found as much as they required, visituig Uie south-west river of Neitchille^ before retiirning homeward. /Fhe country which . they traversed was barren, and formed of limestone ; they saw no deer nor any other animal €xcej[)t the willow partridge. Bujf they found that the ige in the small lakes at Bju^k had given way, and that the same w£^ the c$ise in the bs^m Bhag-a-voke. I must- however now, . as r. have done before^ refer to Conunander Ross's own niarratite^ /- • ;■,'■;.„ * ''/:■'..'- ,/.-^" -:■"'■" J .V I : '\' ■-mj w*^ >, \ J P'- r i t / y 1 TT »9« .r9 r' V- li^syfc^'* ii.' » »• ) f ■ i^ci?i|^» vojAfia ov oiBcovjt^ *' ' ►•!( CHAPTER XXIX. './"' i'^ Commander Mo»a*t MaratiD^ _Mayilth. On the present expedition I whs accompanied by Mr. Maediannid as far as Graham's VaUey : the object of Ws attendant being that I might ppmt out to him a 8p(?t to which provirions might be earned to await us on our return. Following the track of qur party, we found them encamped four or five nSes to the north of \ loo-nood-leed; and on inquiry we found that one of them had been »u affected by cramps, soon after setting out, that the rest w««) cfbliged to carry him in the boat as far as they were able to do this ; th«rfid<«tidnal load thus produced, together with the loss of one hand 'beir small number, having prevented them from making any ^regress. Sdme of the men v^ere also sufiering from inflam- the eyes, by which the mate Blanky, in particular. wa» By affected. . . ' *" * u- ^**6,s"»'s ™y« now became so pow«^ at noon, that, added > it this evil, already commenced, but too soon, I resolved to tesume the plan of travellmg by night: we therefore commenced the present days journey at thi^ee in the afternoon; but the snow was ao soft that we were three hours in reaching Too-nood-leed, whence BIanky.'s increased inflammation prevented us from proceeding for two or three hours. We at Jength found it necessary to Ifeave him behmd under the care of the suigeon, however inconvenient such a lops was to our small party: as it was also, easy' to prdcure a sledge from the Esquimaux tp carry him back to the ship. Tbus also we unfortunately were unable to carry on the surgeon to the intended spot ; since it was necessary that he should, return with a man whose future services we could not afford to hazard ; and hence> unable now to calculate on the depot of provisions which ,we had intended to make at Pad-le.ak, I was obliged to limit materially the period which I had intended for my absence on this expedition. / Leaving them comfortably placed in the hut which we had for- meijly occupied, together with a quantityroil provisions in case of detention, we proceeded on our jotimey. Ous force was thus redu- * ced to four men, mcluding Abemethy j and thoygh assisted by eight 4= '=■-* ' Jv,, V y TO turn AB0TI6 Bialoirs. «87 ,' 4ogs in a second aledgo, pur load was quite as great as we could ttiitmage, ance it consisted of three weeks' provisions, besides instru* meats and clothes, and a skin boat "* Ascending the hill from the 'first Jake, We noticed the trficks ofj in pursuit, accompanied by fi latter had torn from its sider lood-lecid, and on thj9 those of two Wolvos^ skin which the r, the animal had probably a shar^ of the it very difficult Lake, and we were the direction of the itself^ partly devoured by its ei frightened them away, and our pru^- , " ■ . A fall of snow, with a fogj! at _^ . for us tx)r;find our way acjN^^ the gr^ therefore, obliged to guide ourselves X lii^d imtil»three in the morning, when weenc'amped f6r rest. But a serene afternoon followed; and, recommencing our exertions at six in the evening, we arrived in sight of the sea at eleven o'clock: Here, a view from the hill on our right enabled me to d^jtermine our future route; and hdnce I could discern the low land of the opposite shore, stretching across the bay from Nei-tyeUe to within fiiteen or twenty degrees^of Cape Isabella. To this tape I then . determined to proceed, because I could there obtain a more com- manding view of the inlet, on account of its greater elevation. The party which I had thus quitted for a short time, had announc- ed their arrival on the shores of the western ifea by three cheers: it was to me, as well as to them, and ^ill more indeed to the leader than to his followers, a moment of interest well deserving the usutd "hail** of a, seaman; for it was the ocean that we had pursued, the object of our hopes and exertions; the free space which, as we once had hoped, was te^have carried ^s round tne America^ continent, .^hich ought to have given us the triumph for whi&h we and all oi|r predecessors had laboured so long and so hard. It would have done air this, had not nature forbidden; it might have done all this had our chain of lakes been an inlet, had this valley formed a free com- ' mumcation between the eastern and western seas ; but we had at least ascertained the impossibility ; the desired sea was at pur feet, we were soon to be travelling along its surface ; and, in our final disappointment, we had at least the consolation of having removed all doubfs .and quenched all anxiety, of feeling that where God had a{ud f^^Mt^as for man to submit, and to^ be thankful fpr what had been granted. It wak a solemn moment, never to be forgotten; and never wa^ the cheering of a seaman so impressive, breakii^ as it /4j.d on du, arrived at the desired cape, a!t six in the mom- iog. 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IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET -^ r '. » — — .^_- ... ■T S" - * >, * #■ 1^. * ,« . "■ ■'" H/ ■ >-$-^: •- -i. N f I f*;. «wr* *' "• SS8 SSCOND" VOTAOE OP SISCOVfiRT r 1)1 ( , t n ■ ,-^'* ■tS. « . ■r by excavating, in a ridge of snow, a burrow, large enpugh to con- ton the party, which was then roofed by the skin boat; securing afterwards its sides to the surface, by means of the snow that had been removed. An opening being made on the lee side, it was stop- pd up by a block of snow for a door, and, by means of the blanket bags, We contrived to make ojir beds both warm and soft A spirit lamp served to melt Su^cient snow for drink; while thus, for many subsequent mghts, we enjoyed a sounder «leep thanwe had often done under cu-cumstances far more comfortable and promising. Ca|)e Isabella rises abruptly, and often precipitously, to about five fiundred feet above the level of the sea, and is formed of grey irra- nite, presenting patches of vegetation, nhi#, fo/this climate, seeSied to have been unusually luxuriant in the pit summer. The tracks Of grouse, hares, and foxes, were the only indicadons oft animal life that were seen. From .the ace^mts of the Esquimaux,Hia4 expected to sfee a narrow entrance to this inlet, beyond tha-cap4 to which they had given the name of Ik-ke-rush-yuk ; as the^ad also described it to be formed by a low point to the' westward} and some islands. But, mstead of this, the land on which I stood^still preserved its westerly trending, while the opposite shore diverged; and I thence concludMl .that the reported inlet was on the side opposed to my present place, where several small islands skirted the northern part of it to the south-west Under these circumstances, I considered that my best • plan was to continue al6ng this coast as far as the ent«£ce of the inlet; the boundary of which would be detei^iined by the hummocky ice of the ocean. The if^ful observations. ^^ this cape w6re then made ; but, in returning to the party, I had the miibrtune to break my only compass by a fall; an accident which prevented me from making any further observations on the variation of the needks, and thus causes a blank which I must regret, pervading the remainder of this journey. • _ Our labour hitherto had exceeded our strength; and it was there- fore regulated thenceforward, that we should nse at four in the after- noon; and, after our meal, with the necessary stowage and arraiura. ments, proceed on our daily, or rather nighUy, journey betweralix and seven: hrmting the length of it to ten hours. The labour of encamping, the evening (being truly a morning) meal, repairs of clothes, and other matters, then occupied three or four houn,^that the seven or eight remaining were left for sleep. Under this new arrangenient we set out at six fai ths evening: )ursuuig our I'oute close along shore, under the projecting poiotof imestone which skirts Cape Isabella, and extends along M shore or some miles, where it is broken into capes and inlets h«ineanfl of ong ndges of that rock. The direction, here, of the coasVTor about ten miles, is west-north-west, after which it becomes more northerly: and It became necessary to examine the whole of the bay» and inlrti V ft. 4 *r mtm0»9l0>^^i'^" m i^^^mmmmmmmtttf.'^m^:* ■! " ' TO THE ARCTIC >EOIOirS# S39 iJipvuitni uiiei was narrow. I ney. However, proved s 98 Jight in comparison .^ith the loaded party, I was enabled ch the whole accurately, while the rest skirted the coart thus formed, because I understood frbm the natives that the entrance of the expected inlet was narrow. They, however, proved shallow: and beinr >■'•*•♦ ■ '■ -*'- -•-- < ^ • - ' • • - to search ^„ between the several points. 21«t After a fatiguing day's journey of twerty miles, we halted soon after four in the morning; and, in this, as in the preceding, we passed several canoes covered with stones, arid some cacfUes of pro- visions belonging to the Esquimaux, whicji, of course, we took care not to disturb. The occasional discovery of seaweed, shrimps, and shellfish, also s0i»ved to confirm us in the belief that we were really on the shores of the ocean, and not of any freshwater lake, supposing ' that there could have been, here, one of such magnitude as to occupy the great flat soace of ice before us. This, indeed, had been at one turn miagined by some of the party, in consequence of the^want of a fide-mark on the shore, and of there being no hummocky Jpe in the Omng. For the last four or fiv5 miles of this jojumey, the coast was formed of granite, containing large crystalsTof felspar, with garnets; the hills, at a short distance from tlje sea attaining the height 6f six or seven hundred feet Our present encampment was on the shore of a small inlet; and, ' on eAmining it, I found a good harbour, but of no great extent, at . lUf end, well protected by two small islands. JMeeting the party at the further.point of thi&sinuosity, a snow hut was found; and this we beli«ved to haye beerj occupied by the natives, who had arrived at the ship shortly hetdHrib our departure. Here, from a lofty point, 1 gained a very fextei^sive view of a considerable inlet to the westward ,of the cape, which qeeme^io promise the desired opening to the polar ocean^ as I judged from the yery diflferent characters of the two linores. That Qn/which I stood was foi-med of granite, high and rug- ged, deeply int^sected by ravines, and skirted by numerous rocky islets; whUe. the\ opposite one was very low, and cqaiikfttd of lime- stone. ' '^^' '^ ■. ^ ^jT^" • ; In order IcTsAve time, I proceeded immediately, in, company with Abemethy, to examine 4his inlet; taking, to aid us,The sledge, with five dogs, so as to assist us alternately, and thus diminish that fatigue by which we should have been inconveniently retarded. We thus pamed many islets along the eastern shore, presenting abundant traces of Esquimaux; and, after an hour's travelling toward the north-west, arrived at the entrance of an arm of the sea, or perhaps of the mouth of a river, about half a mile in breadth. Here the hiUs on each side were of granite, rising, in some places, perpendicularly, to the height of three hundred feet The glassy surface of the ice, here at least, indicated its freshwater origin; and this; with other puzzling circum •tances, rend6red a minute examination necessary. / We therefore continued our journey; and after travelling five or ■'^) t>. u '( k U *>.' #1 ! fii "t.\ i s 840 tecoND voTAoa or BisconpT six miieg to the north-north-east, reached the tei intnatioii.xrf' the inlet ana there foitnd the estuary of a river; the banks being contractec at the exit to a few hundred feet, so as t& prodi|ce a ramd; while, i littlo higher up, it was a quarter of a mile in breadth. The numbei of canoes that we found buried on the western pank, jn-oved it to b< i a principal fishing station of the Esquimaux; Is we might equaUy have judged from the numerous landmarks andlcachies. The weather being very fine, I ascended a Hill abwit a thousand feet high; whence I obtained an extensive vieW of a chain of lakes, leading to the north-east through a limestone coLitry, while the gra- nite hills took a north-north-westerly direction. In descen^ig, the party came in sight near the bOftom of this inlel; and beir^ directed onwards to the further point, heompleted the stlrvey of this bay, and rejoined them at their encampment The river thus discovered was named after Nicholas Gany, Esq. , 22d. A fresh breeze made our burrow coMei than was aglieeabl^ though the thermometer was still above zero. rlTie drift and haze whicli accompanied, prevented i|s also from staking till eight in the evening, when we continued our journey along ^^o coast, M^ich soon began to trend to the northward of west; am, shortly after, the cheering sight of the sea, covered with hummodks of ice, convinced me tliat we had at length arrived at the strait dklled Ik-ke-rush-yuk by die Esquimaux. Continuing to foHow the . ' quickly round to the north-west; while the hea our left removed all doubt of the course now t I therefore resolved to reach the opposite coi prove to be "practicable; and finding a f^v ice, Mrie left that on which we were, before tr we came to a ridge of hummocky ice thictin our path, which we had great di Acuity 1. . necessary to carry the'htggage over It, t&^ to sledge with axes. This occupied more ^an an . ing some islets to the south-west that had prevjoi by this ridg§, we steered for t%m, and after pa ones, nearly on a level with th^ flat ice, were obi irig hare, to encamp on the east' side of an extei. _^ „. „,« on the mornii^ of the twenty-third,* having travelled about rixteeo miles. 93d. This, being the anniversary ofour departure from Ehgi land, was distinguished by a (ttnner of frozen roast beef, and, what was now rare with usj a glass of grog. The group of islets to the north-west was namei Beverly, Md the laind on which we encamped Matty Island, in conmlmMiiit to the fair donors of the beautifjil silk colours which we thnTdist^yedj iiv ho- nour of the day, and on the usual fwrnallties of tako^ poswmoa of this hitherto undiscovered spot v , Towards noon, the clearing stray of the haze aB% Ln ""- —■ ^< ■-» " i r » i » iim' «ii 1 ^ 1 'tx kx ■"imi T ■'■>^- / TO THE ABCTXO mEOIOlVS. 241 off, with^a great extent of oceani tefffiiiiating in heavy packed ice. Here, also, seeing that the land to the south-west was low, and appa- rently broken into islands, I resolved to keep along the north shore of Matty Island, ^here the hummocky ice assured me that we were on ■die boundary of the great northern oce^n. We therefore pursued our journey at the usual time, but* found the w;ay extremely laborious among this rough ice; while our toils were "uch increased by a thick ibg, which froze on our clothes so as to inder us nearly mcapable of moving under their weight and stiff ess. It was even with great dil^puRy, so much were the men ex- austed, that we could form our encampment at six in the morning, irhen we halted. Thejplace we chose was under the west point of Matty island, formed, like the Beverly islets, of small ridges of lime- stone, rising to a considerable height, which have a west-south-wejst- erly direction. We had coasted sdong it about twelve miles; but all else that we had seen consisted in a few tracks of partridges, together with some footsteps of bears, hares, and foxes, which appeared quite recent 24>westi;rard, till midnight, when, from a stranded mass of ice about fbrty f§^ high, we saw a point of t I I, I )■ m -4- T'^**--????'* ?S7(1TF I "^ ' .'w >- ,zr"' IffTS** ;;^^ 846 SECOND VOrAOB OF DtSOOVlRT / .' :j Ian* bearing south-west about fifteen miles distant, and could also trace its continuity with that in whicK,we stood; the line forming an extensive bay, occupied by very heavy packed ice. A little exami- nation, however, led us to doubt whether thie remote point might not be an island, as there was an intermediate one about eight miles off. But to make an actual examination was now impossible; since our time was nearly expended, and the ruggedness of the. ice between 4hese points would have demanded a very tedious and laborious journey. We now therefore unfurled our iflag for the usual ceremony, and took possession of what we saw as far as the distant point, while that on which we stood was named Victory point; being the " ne plus ultra" of our labour, as it afterwards proved, while it will i^main a stand> ing record of the exertions of that ship's crew. The point to the south-west was also named Cape Franklin: and if th*t be a name which has now been conferred on more places than one, these honours, not in fact vefy solid when so widely shared, are beyond all thought less than the merits of that officer deserve. On Victory point we erected a cairn of stones six feet high, and we enclosed in it a canister containing a brief account of the pro- ceedings of thff expedition since its departure from EnglancL Such has been the cusytom, and to that it was our business to conform; though I must sayi that we did hot.entertain the most remote hope that our little histoid would ever meet an European's eye, even had , it escaped the accident of falling into the hands of the Esquimaux. Yet we should have gone about our work wifhMSomething like hope, if not confidence, had we then known that we wer6 reputed as lost men, if even still alive, and that our ancient and tried friend ^ac]^ was about to seek for us, ahd to restore us once more to society and home. And if it is not impossible that the course of his present mves- tigations from Cape Turnagain eastward may lead him to this very spot, that ho may find the record and proof of bur own "turnagain," we have known what it is for the wanderer in these soUtudes-to alight upon such traces of friends and of home, and can almost envy him the imagined happiness; while we shall rejoice to hear Uiat he has done that in which we failed, and perhaps not less than if we had ourselves succeeded in completing this long pursued and perilous •' work. '^ . : « It was at one in the morning of the thirtieth of May that we turned our backs on this last and furthest point of our journey, arri- ving at our former encampment at six. We had here found a single piece of drifl wood, the only one that we had seen since we lefl uie ship; but were far better pleased to h^ve augmented our slender store of provisions by a hare and , two' grouse. Everything thus united to render this a marked day : and, 'such animals are we, in spite of ourselves, that the rare occurrence of a hot supper and a glass of grog niade us for a moment forget all our disappointments, and rather caused us to feel pleasure tiaX we were now returning /. -sri f TO THE ABCTIO RBOIOITS. 847 home, than regret that, in so doing, wc were renoUncingSthe very object of our (long anxiety and hard pursuit. The longitude of the point on which we were cncampedVfand which I named Point Cplgruff, was determined by a pocket chfp- „ nometer, in preference tajthat which might have been deduced frdfh our sets of lunar distances, because we found, on our return to^je ship, that ite rate of going had been remarkably steady. The bards^ trials whieh this watch underwent, united to its wonderful re^ari- ^ ty, form a compliment t*? thg makers, Parkinson and Prodsfiam, ,. which it would be supcrflupus tojstate in other terms. ' -^ -/ThoJongitude of this point, thus ascertained, is Ofii'* 32' 49" we,st, and the latitude- 69° 46' -t9 ". The time of high water was three o'clock, and the rise and fall but seventeen inches. Victory Point lies in latitude 69° 37' 49 ", and longitude 98° 40' 49 " : while of Point Franklin, as near as those could be determined from an estimated ; distance, the latitude is 96° 31' 13", and the longitude 99° 17' 58". At seven in the evening we commenced our journey homeward, steering across the country direct for the point of our depot. ' We were thus enabled to cut off a considerable distance ; and as we thus also contrived to cross several lakes where the travelling was easy, we reached our store at six in/the morning of the- thirty-first, very- much fatigued however by the exertions Avhich We could not, never- theless, have slackened or delayed, as we had nothing in the sl^ape of provisions left. „ The unlucky dogs had been unable to continue their work for some days past : they were consequently unharnessed, and one t>^ them died in the course of the day, while another was missing wheh* we rose at six in the evening to continue our journey. Proceeding, we traced the coast line between this station and Port Parry, and at length reached the encampment of the twenty-sixth of last month, at four in the morning of the first of June. I here completed the examination of the bay, which I had then left unfinished; and, after this, we arrived at Point Young about six in the morning of the second. A hrace of g^H|:ahd a fox were here shot ; and we found • many circles of stonc||TPirking the .former summer residences of the Esquimaux. Sd. Setting out again in the evtShinj^, we arrived at Gape Sabine at three on the following morning; and here we obtained water to drink, without the trouble of melting the snow. A small pool was open, and it was the first indication of a thaw which we had seen,. At six we reached Cape Abemethy ; and being desirous, if possible, to survey the whole coast line of the continent towards Nei-tyel-1©,, we proceeded in a south-south-easterly direction along the west! shore of the strait which separates Matty island from the mainland; T encamping at half past six. The latitude here was 69° 30' 42", and the longitude 96° 8' 26" west * ; 4th. A strong westerly breeze prevented our departure till nine ' ...V n - A 848 S'tCOMD TOTAOK Off DIMOVfeBT o'clock, from Which time we continued the examination, of the coast to the southwardAtill five ; having made a journey of but nine miles durjng this night\ The. snow was deep, and the party now much iveakeried^ so thatVwe found it impossible tg travel faster. For some time past, indeed, \wo had 'found the usual march of ten Hours too much for the strength of the men, reduced as their allowance of pro- visions now was; bm thfe palTof4hp aftf^gernent gould not be alter- ed, though we couW litot succeed iflTSurmountiiig more than ten or twelve miles in the flay/ We,fwere still eighty miles from the ship, and the remaining prowsioti#*amounted onty to five days' consump- »tion; while n^c were by^noSneans surq th|l we might not meet with many impediments in our way back to Nei-tyel-le. This also served to alter my plans, o- at least to tbrow^^^doubt over their ^accom- plishment; ^ince I §Jiw that unless the coast should assume an east-, erly direction the mxt day, I must abandon the intention of com- pleting this whole lire of shore, as I had hoped. Soon after recpmrfiencing ojlr journey in the evening, we arrived at the entrance of a ( onsiderablc inlet, but the TO TWi 'Motio iuiaipir«< [ / I H9 . Though th* eT«nini wn fog|[]r,-the $»n*$ pUcejsould be 9«ff«» fionilly Men through, the ha^p, and enabled ui to^ proceed «t fiip«. We travelled over very leve) ice, though vometimea^tiiasing hum- mookt that appeared to have been ic^med in the preceding jretf. At four in Ih^ morning of the »\%,m, we obtained » tight of thf high land of Cape Isabella r it'wap/like that of an oM friend ; tnd ifHingave us a no distant prospect of tho terniipation-of our preaept toils, it excited our party to exert themselyee with a spirit whieh had for some time been flagging. Hailing for the day, at six, in' latitude 69° 16' 46", ^d in lon- gitude 9S° ia'6",,we hvid some difficulty in findijng Snow deep ^enough to form our burroiv ; while the hardness pf the ice benepth, on Avhich we were thus co'hipclled to lie, wm sufficiently uncom- fortable, contrasted^ with the soft bed which the snow iutt formerly afforded. ^ ; . We set out again on a very fine evening, meeting now, . it every . fresh step, with well-kYiown lind, and thence gaining, hourly, fn||b spirit to work nur way onwards to our home: a temporsry pret nearly a^mile tb the| south-westfand the. heavy masses ef ice that were grounded on it, indicated the force by whieh tbef had been brought into that position. From the same point thf ahore of the continent was seen trendipg away to the SQUth-wealt end could be distineily trajced to the distance of seven or PJgW mitea. The extreme point in sight was named Foipt.ScpiW Thf islets, as well as tKe mainland, were here formed of limestpne, likf ' the rest of the coast to the Weatward. W« Jieiw sftfir iiiwlXriWf -as . .:" . ■.. -• ■■ if ■ ''I \ -ITTT- ^1*^«*.*Hfti-s-* '■«*;'' 950 1 ■ tecdND yorJwi of discovsbt -*4^ tracks of reindeer, directed hence to the high land of the opposite coast, and had the good fortune to kill a fox and a brace of grouse. c It blew hard n eight, when we set out ; and steering direct for Nei-tyel-ie, we passed within two mil^s of Cape Isabella. On one of theJslcts we found a small pool of water, but^we afterwards under- stood that the thaw had commenced at the ship some days earlier. After a fatiguing journey, jve again encamped on the ice at sevin in the morning pfyhe eighth of ifikine, aboutacTen miles from Nei- tyel-le. At noon it blew'W strong gale ; andj for the first time since leayr ing the ship, I was vunable to obtain any observations for latitude. It was an occurrence that reminded us how highly" we had been favoured on this jouraey, ^y a long tract of good weather. Early in tht evening I set off alone in search of l^e Esquimaux, whose footsteps were every where visible ; directing the party to follow at the usual hour. After tracing these marks for two hours, I reached the islet where I Had requested Captain ^Ross to send a svpply of provisions, but could discover no mark of the visit of our own people. 1 soon, however, heard the shouts of the Esqui- maux: and It young^^man shortly after joined me, with a welcome expressive of the highest satisfaction. A set of dogs wad imme- diately harnessed Vy them and sent off to assist our party in coming up. Atayaraktak now led me to a caira of stones where I found a note from Captain Ross, informing me that he had there waited for my.return till, the fourth, aiid had deposited some provisions for^ur lise' at a short distance from the cairn. ^The dogs of the natives had however discovered the prize, and Mil-luk-ta had that moriiing carried it home. I immediately therefore went to his tent,^ when his mother brought out all that was left, acknowledging that they had made use of the rest. All that we Ihua saved con- sisted in eight pounds of. meat and some bread ; hot most of this was unfit for use, though even the little that remained was very acceptable. They had emptied the canister of r^m and lemon- juice,'whlch they called very dirty water: and then pointed out a stream where we could supply ourselves with what was clean. They now presented us with some fish that seemed to be a small species of cod, promising to catch ° more for u^^ and I therefor^ determined to halt the party at this spot, for rest and refreshment. V/e encamped near them, in consequence; but having now no snow, were obliged to build a stone shelter, in which they gave us their assistance. Of the eight dogs that we had brought from the ship, there were now but two remaining; and. these were so ex* hausted. that aoolJber day's work would probably have killed them also. Yet this was a selection from the very best of those which the Esquimaux possessed : while the whole of them had become L-.\ * '''*'**yi' Vi ,1 J*"**!**' * TO THx Ascno uoiom. m now no ■J anaervieeable after eight days' trayelling, so that they Were cast off from the sledges and suffered to do as they pleased. It was plaib that we had overworked them ; and we now found that, had it indeed been possible, we ought to have followed the system. of tl|e natives, %vho never drive these animals for more than four days at, a time, seldom so much, and then give them one or two for reft. We had travelled, on the contrary, twenty-three consecutive dajrii: a rare occurrence in that climate, and for which we were indebted to the very uncommon serenity of the weather. Our encampment was completed by four in the afternoon, and we at last enjoyed one good dinner out of the fish which had been given to us. The natives, in the mean time, collected round us to ask questions respecting our journey and our objects: matters much more easy to ask of than to answer ; but they were above atl desirous to know nthethef ive had been at Oo-^gebo-lik. The Strangers wercr formally intrMfced to us by some of our old friends: and we were afterwards emr^ined by a history of their own adventures during our absence, in which we could nM help ima- gining that they were indulging some wit at our expense, from the bursts of laughter which followed these anecdotes. Still, every thing was in good humour ; nor could we be otherwise than grati> fied by the union of this mirth with |heir kindness towards us. The length of our beards, which had not been shaved since we left the Victory, was, among other things, a source of great amusement: while one of them, a stranger, whose beard was of unusual size among this tribe, claimed consanguinity with us on that ground. )^ This man, called Ow-weh-yoo-ah, was a very intelligent ^eraon, and a great traveller. He told me that he had passed the wintek' wjth Kan-ny-yoke, and immediately recognised a piece of deer*i horn which J had found at the huts in 0-wat-ta island. He also ^formed me that. Oo-geoo-lik was many days* iourney beyond that place ; there being^rst an inlet to be entered, after which there were.three days' journey on lakes, across some low land ; having passed which, they again arrived at salt water, and were obliged to travel many days along the sea-coast His wife and son were now packing up their tent ; and on our retiring to rest, they all departed, informing us that we «hould find them at Tar-rio-nit-yoke. The diiy having been very fine, I obUined observations at this place, the name of which is E-nook-sha-lig. In the morning, two of the women brought us some seal blubber for our fire ; and another, who had fished for us while we slept, presented us with about thirty of the same fishes, being all that she had ti^en. As I was desirous to know whether these presents were tokens of gratitude for our former favours, or were brought in the hopes of a reward, I desired the men not to make any return jior them. . NotwithsUnding this, the women who had brought th« M ♦, <* . ii% sifSdUtt tdtiOM bf BKCOVkbt ^i: f- U filtl, Which 8e«m6d thilt tnoii Vttlued tHiele^ informed ai whoM tUirn it Would be to hrlnf: the next supply ) ind thus in rotatisiii^^ every three hour^^ we received froin somb of them a fe^li "stoelt) which proved mdch more ih^n we required. The fiah,were also (UrhtihtN) abtlhdantly> in e jlibiitir manner, but not with the aama r«gUl«rity : even our two dog» were not nedected, being rej^ularly fed twice * day, v^hile they took tore to keep otf their own, iekt they ihould interfere with ihone which were most in want For all J his we offered nothing in return, nor did they seem once to expeot I; so that whatever avarice or keenness in dealing we might-have suspected them of on other occasions, we had here ample proof of their hospitality, if not of ttught to refined as gratitude ) on the Wsnt of which virtue, however, our limited acquaintance with them could never have enabled us to pronounce. Anxious to ascertain where the river which I had discovered on, the eighth of Abril' discharged its waters into the isea, I prevailed on the nativp called Atayaraktak to take me to the entrance of the inlet. Be informed me that he had been there some days before, fof th<$ purpose of making A fishing hole in the ice | that he would willingly eondUcltncilhUs &r, but that if I chose to proceed further, he must remiiin behind to fish: a reason which seemed abundantly ftolid, since I could not but perceive that our consumptiop had ma- terially reduced their store* iiliaVfng the party, therefore, to work at such repairs of varioUl irtibles as Were now wanted, I iet out with this mart, and after trt- yelling about five noiles to the touth-south-westWard,.we arrived at the entrance of an inlet somewhat less than a quarter of a mile in breadth, but enlarging considerably in its progress. This strait ht tailed Ik-ke-rush-yuk, a name derived from the rapidity with which the Water rushek out in the' summer; the stream being fre»h ind good for drinking, ai he said, though/ at' this point, where t tasted it, I found it Very salt, t obtained no bounding here tn six fathoms, which was the length of my companion's line. 9ihi While he remained to fish, I proceeded along the left shoM bt the ihlet, about four or five miles ; and ascending an elevated grt)Und, gained a commanding View of the inlet, though 1 could not M quite sure of the continuity of the opposed and remote ahorww My Conclusion, however, from the report, of the Esquimaux, was, that the west branch of the river in question muBt fall into the ein tt>M«wher« to the southwurd of Point Scott. . The shore on which I stood had gradually ehthged ttl tnndtng from kOuth b sttUth^east by eaiit ; and at two or three miles beyond, the intet'tppfeared to be not more than half a mile broad, whence it turned more to the north-least : and here I could see the spot I hud Visited on tny fir^t jourhey to this place. But as I eould pur^ lae the pt«8t»nt «iAtainktion ho fuHher, 1 fttumed to my fiahing ^•/ »*W['5 i« tllB AtCf 10 UAtOin. iM flriend, whoM putientw was nearly exltftu»t«d. He had eanght about thirty Ash, attd was ready to go back to hia party. We reached ' £Miimk:^&Tli|; jlt six in the inprning, mueh exhausted, in eon* HMuenee of the latioribus watkine through the sod snovfi U Mr. Abefnethy here itifortheame that during our Asenee th^ toktlye^ had given them a'feast ; each family ^having cooked a ket-^ ^leful of fish. They were conspquehtly first invited to one of the tents, where the contents of (he kettle having been despatched, the noxt family treated them in the same nwinner, and so on, in rota- tibo) till they had run this sort of eating gauntlet through the whole of the five tents. It is not surprising if they thus ate much More than they ought to have done. . It was a feature of somewhat reRned politeness in their entertainers, and more to be expected from an ancient w and water on that lino, whoMver I Alt»ittpted to diverge' hito it; ao that t was It Itngth -4- VI S54 SIOOHD TdTAOl Of DnOOTMT i( 1 i .} I / '«.? 1.^- glad to abtndon, and I believe fortunate in suirendering, my own opinion, and consenting to folloW my yet unseen guides. ,A. dense fog,, indeed, soon served to convince me of the wisdom of this choice ; since, without that track which served us as a compass, we should have been compelled to halt in the middle of one of the lakes, without being exactly certain where we were, or What was to be done next. 1 1 M. . We arrived at Tar-rio-nit-yoke, in latitude 69° 4 1 ' .6", «nd longitude 02° 54' 21", at eight in the mofning of the eleventh, and encamped on the south side of the stream which carries thf^ waters of this chain of lakes to the sea. The party of Ow-wen-'yoo-ah was here seen on the opposite shore ; and as soon as they perceived our arrival, one of them waded across the streak, which was be- tween four and five feet deep, to bring us some fuel. This man was our acquaintance Ow-w«n-yoo-ah, and he told me. that they intended to remain there fishing for some time. Hq expressed himself much disappointed at the absence of a large party which he had expected to find here ; informing us^also that he had gone,- the day preceding, in pursuit of some reindeer with their fawns, which had been seen in the neighbourhood of Shag-a-voke, but without success. When we rose in the evening, to pursue our journey, the whole of Ow-wen-yoo-«h*8 family came over to us. His prOsent wife and children belonged to another man who was his particular friend, and an angekok, to whom he had, in the preceding autumn, lent his own two wives ; a loan which is here considered a peculiar .mark of friendship, and, it must be admitted, not very unreason- ably. He had expected the restoration of this pair of spouses at this time and place; but the borrov^fer, Shoong-ug-u-wuk; had taken them with him on the expedition after deer, and this breach of agreement seemed to be the chief cause of our friend's vexation and disappointment If we onc«Xupposed that this practice, for which these people may plead^e authority of ancient Rome, was limited to the na- tives of Repulse bay, we had subsequent occasion to believe that it waa universal among this tribe— the inhabitants of Boothia, as we must now term this country. Others may analyze the morality of this fashion ; but one thing at least appeared certain, namely, that the women had no voice in the matter, and were therefore consi- dered merely as property or furniture, conformably to the high authority already quoted, and to the practice of some other nations in slates of civilization rather more resembling, it must be owned, that of Boothia than of the Mistress of the world. At this pl«^e the thaw was proceeding with such extraordinary rapidity, that the stream which we had crossed in the morning with the greatest ease, was now impassable.' The torrent of water thuf fM, .'.'^. *■, iia, as we VO THfi ABOTtC WBftI(>M< HSf di charged from the lakef had aho covered the ice which was to be trivers^, to the depth, of several feet. ^ Not a dry spot remained aolr where; for there, beiiig no tide powerful enough to break up th< frozen barrier towards the sea, this disengaged water could find no| passage to it, except through a few seal holes which were quite! intiampetent to drain it o^. Had we not already known that such must be the case at this season of the year^ we should have had ample proof of the necessity dif condensing the expedition from wKiieh we were now returning, within the very limits to/which it had been fixed. It is true that our confined stock of prbvisions formed the actual restraint on our further advance, and thn our return was, as I have already shown, compulsory, from this cause. Yet in thus restricting that allow* ance, and, with it, the time of our absence, we had not acted im- prudently, as the facts now proved; whether or not We are to be allowed the credit of having shown prudence and foresight in our calculation. And however impossible it was then, and even now is, to suppress the constantly returning regret that we did not reach Cape Turnagain, I cannot see how^e coul^ have com- pleted that survey and returned in safety, or perhaps returned at all, even though we had been amply provided for a longer journey. At any rate, it was plain that the arrangements for such an expedition must lie very different frdm what ours had been; and that if it was to be undertaken inihe following season, a new calculation must be made, and very different expedients adopted, together with much more force, to ensure any chance of success. Under the, present obstructions we were recommeMcd by Ow- wen-yoo-ah to go round by Shag-a-voke, since he considered that the water was too deep for us to cross. 1N^ however would have materially increased our distance from the^ship; and, as I also knew that the ice was very bad at the entrance orthe inlet which we should thus be obliged to traverse, 1 determined to attempt the wading\of the bay at this place, since the distance was not much moje than two miles. I therefore caused all the holes in the skin boat to be repaired; and having stowed the luggage in it, we proceeded on this amphibious portion of our journey at ten o'clock. The water did not finally proVe more than knee deep, And was barely sufficient to float our boat; but we found no difficulty in reaching the apposite shore by midnight. We should not indeed have been displeased had this watery tract extended mu|h further; since we founjd it a very laborious task to get over the H^h craggy rid^e of land' that intervened between it and Too-nood-leed bay, which was now bare of anew. * In this bay, to compensate for that difficulty, the travelling was among the easiest that we had found. The water/whtch had h«re l^ i '•{ ^ V ■ Ti f/ IT n ■i ,■ 1 II ■'X •If f^ SIOQVO T0r4«ll •? 9|i«0WB7 .*■..■ alto ovcrfl9W0d the luvface, had fliikoIy«((4 tha snow, and afterward* •a4!a|M>d thratixh the fistureik beneath, Whieh had been produced by the risef nd fall of the tide. ' We|fo|iihd, therefore, a amooth plain of. poliahecl ice; anfjt on this we proeeeded Y'itl^ Sre*^ expedition, not without wiahini^; that ^preSj|»W of Jtw territory which we had passed, both outward^ and oVoiir return, had been of the ssme character. I • , The river Ant^ma-look-took now appeared much more extensive thap I had formerly supposed it to be; and, from the number of landmarks near it, together with similarly numerous eaohtf on its banks, I concluded that it was a fishing atatioo of considerable im- portaiica to the natives. Al^ eight in the evening of^the twelfth we halted, in latitude 69° 48' 10", and loni^ittide 9s| ^3' 9", on a small/rocky islet, much fatigued, att^ehie% -by the Umonr of wading. /Here we found in ^ti'Kny \\\tiWoi^i/^itiyd^^ the first that we hid seen for thif^jpirirtg; th<>t^ we afterwards found that it had ep- peered muplTe'arii^ in the Vicinity of the ship. It was neijr midnight before ^^e again got into inotion; at first finding th0 iway extremely rough, from the intermixture of hum'- mocks of ice and deep pools half frozen, but proceeding with much more ease after reaching the mainland, while feeling additiontl energy and atrength af we diminished our distance from the ship. I3M. It was at seven in the morning when we came in eight of her; when 1 issued the last remaining dram te the party, and, hoist- ing our flag, we arrived on board at eight, all in good health, though much reduced in appearance. '■■ .i '■■-■.. " »^ fil^' ' \ . ■■ » m^ «ej)fi ^'"i * " m . . 7!S^„t0m' VTf»iagm«. TO Til AiOTIO UaXQIf. m '\ CHAPTER XXX. Continuation if the Jourhai-rSumfnary of the MtntC / o /tiMe \ith. A sTaoNG wevterly breeze made tl^e weather cold, and the thermometer fell to 33°,. with showern of snow. It did not pre- vent our work from going on, neitheron thilt nor the following day, when it fell in mueh greater abundance. It only remained on the ice, however; on the land it soon melted. UriPthe, next, it wasi much the same; and we began therefore ttj^ expect a' later summerl than we hadi,at first anticipated, sfnce no visible alteration hiid' taken place in the ice ii)r some days. The thercnprneter during these latter days wai^ rather under the freezing point »t night, land the highest heat of the day, being on tne fifteenth, was 5o . On the seventeenth the iveather looked better and more settled, but it was not warm. Two natives came, bringing a couple pf aealn; a very welcome supply, with the large pack of dogs that we had to feed. They had been successful at the Comptroller's islands. After rewarding them in the usual manner, I presented Ikmallik with a sovereign to wear round his neck, as being the picture of our great chief; desiring that he would preserve it, and show it to any European he might hereafter see. It was no^ likely to b(^ spent, whatever else might happen; but if it was too valuable » gift intrinsically, for one who was as ignorant of its uses as incai^ pabfe of apply mg them to a purpose, he would have been greatly astonished could he have exchanged it for its English ValuB««tot0«usapio. / 84 / I , ■.■■ * ftis SKCOMD VOTAM OV DnoOTSKT. If ¥i- H > .' 18/A. The weattJer was fihe, but it Troze both in the morning and the evening. The work went on, and the boats were cleared of snow. Some men now complained of rheumatism, and were relieved by. the steam bath. 19/A. The Saturday began cold; and, in the course of the day, , it rained heavily. Fortunately, the calking of the deck had beeh'^. finished, S9 that it did not interfere with the comfort of the men below. £0M. The weather seemed to have taken a sudden turn on Sun-..^ day; the rain having ceased in the night, and the air being mild and serene, while the thermometer rose, in the middle of the day, to 62°, being at 60° for more than seven hours. Much of the snow was consequently disapffi^aring, and the torrents again running down the hills. After church, the men having been sent to (heir walk on shore, brought back a line specimen of the great northern diver, and reported that they had seen many hares and much wild fowl. Some insects were also collected, and much of the ice was broken up r^nd the ship. &lst. Monday was misty, with small rainj the thaw continuing though it was less warm. A diver was again shot, together with a king and J queen duck. Preparations were made for a travelling party to trace the line of cpast tc; the south-eastward, and the men were employed within the jship.; On the next day, the w:«ather was foggy till the evening, iloder a north-east wind; when If beisame clear. Thejarboard leeboard was fixed, and the preparations for the travelling^party completed, should the weather permit of moving on 'the following day. 23d. It proved line. The sledge and the skin boat were got ready, and the provisions stQwcd away in them after breakfast — The chief mate, with ten men, went ofi* to draw it ten miles in ad- vance, returning at eight in the evening. At nine. Commander Ross and four men left the ship, with the dogs; with the intention of proceeding as soon as they had reached the deposited sledge. — The returned party had killed some ducks, and seen reindeer. These animals had been gradually passing in increased numbers; since we had latterly seen many, though, for so lung a time, we had found nothing but their tracks. The morning of the twenty-fourth was fine, but there were rain and snow about noon, continuing till midnight; it was not, cer- tainly, a ttiidsummer day in effect, whatever it might be in the calendar; and even if (he usages of St. John's dav had penetrated to these lands, there was as little temptation to light bonfires as there was an utter dearth of materials for constructing them. In consequence, however, of the thaw, a considerable quantity of water flowed from the decks into the hold, being produced from the snow which still remained on the sides of the ship; and this we were oblig* .» ^ ^ TO THB ABOTIO mxaiOHS. ffi9 ed to drive odt by the foreiog pump, u the others were not yet clear of ice. 23M. The surfceon, who had escorted ihe party, returned early in the morning with a brent goose; and the first swan of the season was seen. At this time flights of ducks began to pass, in consider- able numbers. The snow still fell, occasionally, though it was mild ; and the day ended in a fir^ evening. The men were employed in cutting the ice on the UrWard side of the ship, to allow her to right herself ; in consequence of wliicb, she rose fourteen inches. The thermometer at night was 91". 86/A. On the Saturday, at noon, it was 62° ; such were the ex- tremes of day and night in this climate, and at midsummer; as, to -confirm this, it fell again to the freezing point at night. It is the alternate reign of the sun and of the accumulated ice. Whatever the former efiecis cannot last, and it ceases as soon as the great source of heat becomes depressed in its career. I took an oppor-r tuniiy of setting the net where a stream entered the nearest lake, but caught no fish : we did not even see any. An egg of a goose was found, proving that they breed here ; and many of these birds were se*n, while one was killed. The ship was, at length, nearly Upright. m 27th. Nothing worthy of note occurred on Sunday. The men, however, were not forbidden to shoot, in their usual walk alter the service of this day ; and their sport brought us five ducks and a diver. 28/A. It was snowy, and became so far cold, that the night temperature sank to the freezing point: in the course of the day We finished our preparations for the projected journey of the fol- lowing. S9M. In the morning the snow threatened interruption*: but, ' clearing at noon, a party of seven men went off in advan<*^" with the sledge, a boat, and our provisions and packages : the sUpply being for six days, and the place of their halt the north-west inlet; At seven, I followed, with the surgeon and three men, and found one of the parly returning with a report that the sledge had been broken. He had been sent back for a new one, attended by three men and a dog : they had not succeeded in reaching further than six miles, being a mile short of the northern huts, which formed the^pointed spot. But this did not prevent our prbceeding : our principal object being to catch fish, for which we had provided oursiilves with the necessary materials. SOth. To complete the journal of this month, I need only say that it snowed on the last day, with the same low temperature at night, and a fresh breeze ; and I may therefore give the usual aam- mary, that I may not interrupt the^accoant of our journey. '■ :'J /I "■t S*" M *- noovD ToyAtts o» bucotmt It ii sfiireeljr ncedrul to My, thit it hid bMit ■ ▼ei^jdnfiToanble mpntli to our prospects of proceeding it in-eirly period in the ihip. At PortBowen, two hundred mile* -further northf there hid been nin 18 eirijr tt the seventh of the month, while it hid not ippeircd vhere till the nineteenth, and wis followed, moreover, by frost and snow, so as to throw back every thlnjc to tK^ sime condition aa in the earlier daya of June. In many places, indeed, the ice hsd be* edme much thinner : but it was still very thick and compact The weather, however, had been favourable for the exploring parties. Commander Ross had not been at all interrupte4 in hia travelling, and his reports were favourable : while, among other ~ things, the limits of our future endeavours were much narrowed by the result of this expedition. Our intercourse with the natives had much decreaaed. In conse-' ' quenee of their removal ; but, whenever it occurred, we were oh terms ofgreater confidence thkn even They had been unsuccessful in hunting, and had therefore been unable to bring us soy aupplies; but whenever they Were in want, and we could furnish them with food, we did so — receivings in return every mark of gratitude and thankfulness. In reality, with excepiion'of the adventure eonae- duenton the boy'a death, in, which their mistake was afterwards iiilly rectified and atoned for, and excepting also some sufficiently pardonable and not very serious pilfering, we found every reason to be pleased with the character and conduct ofthia tribe, not only to us, but towarda each otfier. I have ghren aeveril inatancea of their kindness, in their dragging, the helpless on sledges, and the cam of their children p and if tj^ey seemed an affectionate jnd goo(f-tem- pered people, so did they appear to live together in perfect har- mony, and to be free of selfishness, even on the4^ubject of that great ariicl^, food, which conatiiutes the whole, it may almost be said, of - a savage's enjoyments^ 1 had no reason to suppose that I had pre- matui^ly formed this favourable opiniion, though it is so much at variance with^tNtat has been reported of other tribes of the same people. It remained for time to dete^ine what the exact truth WM. The alterations and fittings in the ship had made ao much pro- gress, that it was plain we should be ready long before it could serve any purpose. Though the health of the crew wu generally good, three Or four continued to show sXielra proneness to scurvy that We were obliged to regulate iheir diet ami treatment accordingly. They had been'lnueh harassed and fatigued' during thia pefiodi but bore the^ jloils cheerfully. » - ♦ ».;' - ^ The obHervaiions and surveys had b«en goifif on, ineludingmany ^n the dip and variatidn of the t^tte^le* The ^igheat temperature bffhe month had been ei' plitsjinjllhe loweit B6*>^themcan was S6°, 76<^ } i need not repMt the MttipariMiiM with iKbae of the other expeditions in the same month. ( ma to lov hot poi coi "■t TO m AacTid aioxoiTi. Mt Our sport wks but indifferent — yet some good apeeimens of anU mats were procured. The perpetual hunting of the natires aeemed to prevent the deer, together with the animals of prey which fol- lowed on their traces, from resting for any time in this neighbour* hood ; while the same cause, doubtless, drove the musk oxen, and possibly also the hares, from this, vicinity, to places where they could find greater security in the solitude of these deserts. ■■.^■ <- ^r y ueh pro: it could . ■. c ■+■■ . ^ ■ ■ : r "^".f ' . , enerally ' rvythat rdingiy. iod, but ' ^ i -1, ^ * . * " • ■ • / ' ' igmany w -—- =-■-----■ u;:'-': ■:;'v\'' "^''v- vr-.;^ ' . ., '. '«*-^ tan was toother f iSv'i V . . % . f ( • I \ ,-..... . - - '" - ' ' - . ,.':. • > * ■ ■' ■ ',j^ . '. :■ . i :■- < 4, ■ ,■'■,• --■% , «'-^ - i i .i « neOITD TOTAOB OF DISOOTBSY <■?« ... «4^ CHAPTER XXXI. JSn Expedi/ionio fiah for t Jit Supply ofFishJbrtheCreio, i«nr * 'dertaktn by myse/f and party— Mtrrativf arid return. (■•«■, • ■ June20th. Having proceeded towards the^lace where the sledge had been appointed, we came suddenly on two large white bears, be- fore we had reached the end ofthe lake— >-but as our guns were loaded with small, shot only; we were compelled to avoid them. It is not a sare animal to projoke unarmed. We met, after this, the men re- turning with theigjllken sledge, and afterwards arrived atthe boat where the amn^lifvion and fishing tackle had been deposited. We then proceeded- over the ice, which was very full of cracks and boles. ' 90th. ■ Early in the morning, we rea'ched the point foirming the entrance of the inlet, which we believed to be the estuary of the river in which we had proposed to fish— but were obliged to pitch the teot, as it beg^n to snow heavily, with a strong northerl3reale. Being in a sheltered spot, we were, however, enabled to coolTour dinners and go to rest We had killed two ducks and a plover, and seen some reindeer. The land at this place was rugged, clear of anow^ and divested of all vegetation. Me found the ice in many places' dangerously thin, independen''"^ wide cracks. » ^^ After dinner, iffive in the eveni which turned to the north-east-^tn .„,>.^. ...» .^w .„. ».,, miles, till it divided into two bsanches ; one leading to the norths west, and the other north-north-east. We fdjowed the latter a mile, and arrived at its termination.* Here we ascended a high mountain; where we saw that the north-west branch -took a north- ^SSlSf'y direction, as if it was about to join the gre^t inlet to the > *i*i»**^wtrd^ Cmm whichits visible end cquld not be more than a ? ' large holes^and led up^f^nnlet, the ice for five ,i*' TO fjHi ABono iiroioira. ^46 8 \ We paw no river of finv importMce, though we had expected one — there was only a small lake ; but we found on its margin some remains of snow huts. On its banks, the ganra, such as it was, proyed somewhat abundant for g country so barren in this respect as it generally had been found, and our sportr^g produced us some ducks -and- gulls, 'all equally /icceptable to ihom whose variety of L 4 food was for the most part very disagreeably eonAned. The hill y, ^bounding the. other inlet was, like those we had ascended, rugged nL^Mind bare, and there was a narrow channel of water along its shore, I ^j[ extending all the^ way up, excepting where two points project^dU Many showers of rain fell during this walk, and the weather at length became so^ick and misty, that all further view of the inte- ~ rior land was unattainable. July lat. Wo returned about two in the morning, for the purpog^ ^f resting till six, during which time Tt blew a gale fron the north- " -ward. After this, I set off, with the 8urgeon.jHMH>ne man, to ex- amine the coast' to the westjrinsearch of arj^r ; and passing along the shore, came to an island in the-aouth^the inlet, an'd efterWards° to two points, the bays 'near which received nothing larger than-^ small ilvulet. We then passed two more points on the right, and -. three islets on the left; finally arrnring at the arm of Jhftsea and that mouth of a river which were formerly examined by Gsroman- der Ross. Finding it still frozen, we proceeded to the north shore, ascending the rising ground as we went on ; and at length, at the distance of three miles, meeting two smalt lakes. . '' Thence I ascended a mile, leaving my companions, lest'"! should fatigue them ; and, crossing a lake proceeded to the summit of the highest mountain. Hence I saw the termination of the nortiiern. branch of the inlet which J had observed yesterday, and beyond.it a necl( of land dividing it from the one further to the northward, which ^>sl was also distinctly sreivabout seven miles distant I returned -idker two' ^our5, and, joining my companions', we arrived at our tent* While resting near it, a man was perceived crossing the bay, on ' which ^0 fired a ehot, to attract his attention.^ He seemed at lint alarmed, but .at last stood still to look a| us, when the siirgeon west * to meet him, thrcping away his gun, as the signal of friendship. On this he also threw awjy his bow and arrows and spear, whi approaching with the usudi salutation, he was discovered to be oi friend Awack. I then pe^rsuaded him to accompany us to our ten giving him the gun to carry, in hopes of thus better establishii^ :_. j confidence among us. We had walked thirteen hours, and were . ' v| glad to find a dinner, in which ^e nude our friend partake. He informed us that his lindc Ikmallil|'$ party were at a river thaj^^ ejiin'ed the bay about ten utiles off ; and thither v^e determined"1«t* go, to his great satisfaction. ^ Our tent «nd baggage were hnmediately packed on the aledge^ r^ V. .,- . -to—" -AJ^.wSISs-J :'\im' SXO^tll} tOTAOl (Dr BIlOOTaBT 1/v *3 \' ; with thftvlittlb boat and the net, and we set oflT with freah ipirit, "'""^'"'afl^raltiiUQdr and points^ till we came to oneof thow •f-. ,p}^M%l indunda which I formevly described; on rounding which, we saw the river, and the huts of the nativea about a milo •way ffn the norllKbank. A| our guide's desire, we announetdour T apprdach by firing'r^un, which produced a general acelamatioQ. Leaving the sledge behind, I was soon at the village, and wta iinceived with open arms by our old friend Ikmailik. - » He informed us that the season for fishing in the river waa ended* and that thpy were about to set off for the iak«at but' that they would Btay another day, if we would remain with them. Our sledgi then arriving, we erected our tent, and they began to replace theira^ which had been taken down ; the number of familiea being fourl They were highly delighted when I displayed the flag above. Ikmallik's tent instead of our own. We were fhen presented >nth fish, including two, fine salmon, whirh we proceeded to dress id our cooking apparatus : a process that excited ^reat. attention, from the quickness with which it boiled one of these fishes and fried the other. They had proposed to dine with us, and of course we could not refuse ; ihough perplexedto know how to cook for so largea party with ourlimited kitchen. The whole twelve were, however, invited into the lent ; and, with our own party of five, it was more than auffieiently filled. We were soon relieved from all our anxiety about cookery, finding that they preferred their fish raw. Our two dinners, therefore, made a parallel progress : in time, however, not in quantity : since, while we f6und that one salmon, and half of another, was more than enough for all of us English, these vora* cioua animals had devoured two each. At this rate of feeding, H ia not wonderful that their whole time is occupied in procuring food : each man had eaten fourteen pounds of this raw salmtin, and it was probably but a luncheon after all, or a superfluous meli for the sake of out* iiociety. Nor is it wonderful that they so often aufi*er from famine : under a more economical division of their food, with a little consideration for to-morrow» the same district might maintain double the number, and with scarcely the hazard of want • The glutton bear, scandalized as it may be by its name, might evi^n lie deemed a creature of moderate appetite in the compariaon : with their human reason in addition, these people, could they ^waya eommand the th'eans, would doubtless outrival a glutton andlboa eoostridtor together. ^Whether Captain Cochrane'(i>-extravagant accounta be true or not, the voracity of the northern aavages, on both continents, is auflSeiently known. Bat it ia a question that hnnot been exa« mined as it/oiight ; and my medical knowledge ia far too email Ut allow mt to aay much on a subject on which I cannot find that either ' ■- ^i*r». T^ •4* 'Vp-4wt Mmd>H» mtmrnmrn W, Prath ipirit, le of thow rounding bout a milo lounecd our celamation. ;e, and wm was ondcdf It' that thajr Our sledgi^ tiaee theira^ being fouri flag above. leniedjMtb to drcas in ntion, from a and fried B could not argeapartjr irer, invited more than xicty about Our two }wever, not md half of these vora* leding, it ia uringfood: mn, and it IS meH for sy 80 often their food, trict might rd of want • might evi^n iaon: with hey iljwaya I and'i boa be true or ntinenta, is been exa> DO email t« that either jlilld lnn trayellaw or pl^idenahate wrllteiUnf^^^thtnK ^TMpOil* •tee, These northern. stonia«hs have been supposed kapeHiA^ powerful ; but the Bhshntan of sonthern Africi has a digestion ^ the same entN^gy^ and can r<((ially bear the aHemaiivits of grosf feveess and want^ It msy be true al*Of lo a certain aiitent it teitfli that the seiNiriiy of these tlimates demands mohiah^^nt food'thiH. irnm mei« ttnipu«(er *»d^'thai^4»^ pai4i«ttla»^ oil^)<«io4 4» I had oeea!«ion fornfeily to remsrk. But ihe inhehitinM flf the • elpine regiona of sduthem Rurnpe demand no such cttravo^noe of food, nor areev^n thepeniileof-LApland and the northern eiiremiiy •f Norway eenspinioits fdr such eating t a« is not less true of the leetieders. tn Norway, indeed, the peasant Ts very mu6h lifirtiii^ te Bttik, eh# t(f fcHread of the vety Worst quality: yet« in neither of these eases, do we find the people less strong, or less capa^'df luboun whHe e^uat, it leasts to^ the Esquioaaux tfib^tf imki^ iiid lngi«erari»ahhi«-^l^^^'*^-*^''^^f^-^*'>'-^'^^'-^^-'^'^^ ^- •■'^.- ' If iMleMii^oHinarrei^yiiff|t!c»ibf ^; while he hffalib etrbnger and iriot^ active, mher 'ohthpli^Yl anr lalsiiy made tffv any one ae^iiiint^d «ir)^ the cecfgraphiirl hiftury of man.^'^iris for phyaleians to explain thtfieiweonfin^^ leg pewei% (if the human stomaiih and eohstltution; hiit^fhl Iboatd ahro <««ount for the dlaposalof that Whieh iianhbt latf to VPfMMiKMiat "Wtf wei^ alKas #011 M on drpptfiid of ailmoii/l dj at :«heae'|ibop|le oh rwenly. ^- -^-'■■■v ' .. -..--f m, / 9| thet ewplaiobd it it msy, this vast power of dil^sthi tH^ M^die iesdlt of f^raetloe irtd habit ^ vrbile, linfortanatd^, ffi ha^t beM0 olbelj'estsblished, the consequence of a more itliti'reteilhefia evftiti^ end weikne««; or silrvation. That is fully proied by the •fi^tea of the Clnitftian boatmen. The Ksquimaut iiili aniihll ^p9f,^Hh oobiHer enjoymenf than eatingV and, gui^tf by ko pHuelple end no reason, ho devours as long Im hf eaii, ai^ a*!! th||t Mian proeore, lijte tkr^oltuna apd the tigel. The h*lf aavage Oi^ifKan iqdllljreats all that he ein oblaiV tinder the aain^ iWpolaiH^; >ct h< |aini hothlng In strength V power of endura^ by it{ except that When the habit has once become establiiihed^^ iiwiibi eiilure p^iyation at the first trial, nfr wiibinit such pera|^' teraifii In modtfrailpff as may ence more itdoee the ronditioii' If his atbmach and (COnsaiotion lo a more haturjl state. Yet with efx |MnM'dl^er«»lii« meat in the day, or eight pounds of fish, whichl Md Mgttleied ettowand^ he ie not wevih aaoee^ in point bf eicll f ■^fcW*^ -^ j-j" if t 1 .*•■"««' '-'--m i & p^*^ ■ 1.^ ■■' .' ^^^j^'" 8X(Hilw Twrin-bv stteonm tkin the Englishinan, after a little practice ia that laliour, wha It amplf fed with one pciand of the former, and a proportional quaa«^ . titv of the other. ' ^^' To return from thes^ remar)cB, we were not. a little amined with the fashionable usages of the table here. The head and back>bone being taken off from two fish, they were handed to Ikmallik^nd Tullahiu, tlw seniorr, who «lit the body longitudinally intOiLtBlOL^^ equal parti|ldividing each of those afterwards into two morew They were then rolled up into cylinders of two inches in dimeter, when putting one end into the mouth as far as possible, it was cut off by the knife so close as. to endanger the end of the nose; the party then handing the remainder to his neighbour. In this way they proceeded till the whole stock of fish was consumed. One of them, afterwards eating the scraps on one of our plates, where there chanbed to be some lemort-juice, made wry faces, to the gffat amusement and laughter of the rest. Man seems a laughing uiim aa he has been termed, even where he approaches aa nearly jl^lie can to his inferiors of four leg^ ■^ ^''^!^/'^ i We proceeded after this, to try our drag net, thoi^ Ifaey aasured us that we should take no fish; promisihg, neverthelesa, that if we caught none, we should partake of their store. Their ^ propheey was correct; for, in three casts, we took but half a dOzen amall fish called KanayOke, while the laat brought on\y a large atone. This produced great laughter; but if h did nolgive them a good opinion of Our dexterity in this art, so it had the advantage of preventing them from coveting our net. But the fame we might , have lost in fishing, was compenaated by our shooting, on. the wing, a gull and a wild goose; and, by presenting them with these aM aoime other birda that we bad shot, our favour went on increasing. . After twenty*five houra of wakefulneas and labour, it was, however, necessary that these nativea at lea^t ahould sleep, and I therefore aent them all to their beds, appointing a meeting wlien the aun ahould be in the south. ' > -- Jufy 2d, I accordingly went with Ikmallik to due of the pits where they keep their fish, froaen ; and aeeing that it probably, contained not \eia than forty aalmon, offered him a large knife for the whole, which was readily accepted. He had alwaya been the most contented of these dealera, while the othera looked up to him for example ; aO that the other two men offered me their atorea at the same price. Had- 1 known the contents of the whole, I could not have ventured to oBR»r anch a price ; aa I found two hundred and twenty fish, averaging fiiM pounda each, and therefore pro. ducing a ton weight of aalmon ; of which the purchase money was thus no inorethan seven ahillinga and aixpenee. We had thus more than we could' well carry ; but as thia (ftA neat waa moat needful for the hedth of the ereWr wpeeially for. u,/^^^-'- M to Tpa AB@Tio vwawomk ised with «ck>boo« iallik^n4 inta titob — those who were threafened with scurvy, we sdopted sereral ton-' trivances for transporting at least as many as we could. The seal- skin beds were made into two bags, and, with one more lent by Ikmallik, we succeeded in packing up two hundred and ten Ojf these fishes, keeping the rest for present use. The offer of tw0 pieces of wood to make a spear and a paddle, produced us, further^ Uie loan ^ four jlogt, with the assistanciB of three natives, to aid us on our journey hoi^, and to bring back the animals,. together witK their reward. v Having all dined together, as before, we were ready to depart, when they said that they would show us their- method of killing seals; pointing to a large one half a mile off, on the ice. Eight of them conseqnentl« set out along the shore nearest to it, and then approached the animal slowly until it raised its head, when those in front stopped, and shouted as loud as they could ; on which three others ran up with incredible swil^ness, but as the leader raised his spear to strike, the creature suddenly plunged into a crack on the ice, and disappeared. We did not retaliate their laughter at our want of success in the fishery, "^ we were really 'disappointed. They afterwards showed us the manner .in wl»ich they take the salmon. The weapon is a spear, with two very divergent barbs of bone or ivory; and, by this, they are struck in the waterii They described this method as being withoift difficulty; as the fish swam up in the channels between the ice and the land, in such dense crowds, that they could not throw their instru- ment without^triking some. Tlfcis was the migration to the rivers for apawning, without doubt ; and it was the end of this migration that had caused them to abandon « place, which, if we had i^icfn understood these matters better, we should have resorted to at an earlier period. That report also confirms a discredited American Ule-, in which the fish are described to be so abundant, at some seasons, in certain rivers, that they are trampled to death by the hoofs of horses in fording; while, if confirmation were necessary, the reporta of I%.Perou8e on the same subject, are beyond ques- tioning. £^ V ,io;tv , »^ , /. . ft AU- We at length set off, dragging the three bags of fish sRer the sledi{e, as it could not bear the weight. The jce being hummocky, and full of cracks and holes, gave us much trouble: so that it required four hours of hard work to reach^ the first of the islands, about four miles off. I here determined on bdrying two of the bags ; carrying on only one, in the boat on the sledge. At midnight we arrived at the secOnd island, four milee further; and here it was necessai;y for us to eat and rest, having thirteen miles more to the ship. ... .1 - The route continued very bad the next d^y, beiQi^ (braughjOlSM -. I of water, often Itneo d««p, ind with holct quitf throagh the i«t» beftidM rery wide 6rapk«. Falling into ooe of those) the^iltd|t« Al^o overset near iite, the bax of fish fallln); at the sama tiitio iH Mleh a tnanner) that had I Dot beah first, it would have gone dowil through the crack and been lo^tk The only event, fortunatalyi waa a teund ducking. Not long after, it begkn*^ blow hard) and to snoW)> while we had still seven miles before us } but Our perae^ ireranee at length brought us_ withi n sight of home, at three miiM —distance ; wheo,i[fter much difficulty, in cohseqlience of th^ s^pi* ralioh of the ice, obliging us to unload and carry thrttgs pieeeiheal over the loose ft-agments, we ^ot near enough to hoiat our eolouM) ind Were ansv«ered by those of Commander Ross, who had not arrived many minutes before us, from a similar fishing oxpeditiod^ We found all well on board. There is lit^ to add to the ttarrative of this short ezpoditiom The river whieh we had visited is ealled by the natives Tatchtk,. and is only flHeen miles fVom the ship, though our circuitous coorao had made it twenty to us. It is i|bout five hundred feet wide, and from six to ten deepi the bottom full of largo blocka of gfaoite^ and the current running strong at first, bdt diminishing beforoW* had led it. Thero was a rapid^Mao about two milas up the strtAm, preventing its navigation : t^Ue the natives informed oio that It fan out of a lai^ lake whiah w«s auppliei by oth«ra«t a craalMr distance. "■'. /". :,-A-'i /..J. ..A^v... ;:.i:xaM:.'.-;-^...,;. ;.,-„-^.\ ,;, ,.7; ,.,-,-.. ■ To our eommuniMtlons with th« nMives I mmit also add, that they endeavoured to entertain us in their beat manner } acting ovet> ftgain the drama of our first meeting, tofseihOr with that whieb was to take place when wo met hereafter atl^eitehillee. Our attomptt to repeat their words were also a soorce of great amusement to thoMi. If the meeting had been fortunate for us, in procuring sueh a 9Vfaif of fish, which we should have mtssedjiad we been a d»y Jaicr,! mw also found that this had been stored up with the intemton ofsellilig U to us the next year. I might indeed have proeuivd a hundroi and thirty more, but they were net so fine, n«»r eouM we contrive to take them away. I ought also to mentioia that wo bpMgbt/aaa them three wolf whelps as specimens. ' "i;,v;,fl>-«./ Jtrfjf 1st. The proceedings on board during oorabaence had been marked by littte vitriety. Some of the men had been tamed in their Oxpediiions, ahd required management in their allotted work. The thermometer at midnight was S7^ Gin the second day it di4 not vary, and the men were recovering. The third was the day of iho rotiim of Oommanfter Ross's party and my own, being foggy in the morning With snow and rain. ii» the evening i detached a 'party to bting home .the fiah that hod boeo kfi bohiad. .■»#-. ■.,Jj^»i :=■ 'J!:v-' V^l,„. . ' ■■ ■ ■« V 1_II1— — — -- . ■■«»:;■. ■:'■ i"*' ■ ■ ... ' ' • " ■ " ' ■ttB the !•#» > iltdKtt tirti* ib le down •Iy» WM » and lo ra Diiiaa . . . ..- :' - ...: .',•■ ■':■■/ r CHAPtKRXXXiL -.-;.-t...*.-.'.* '' Tt^Mmiiont dmfing i/iugtui, and ikt Summarffh -t is ■H.*- .•>i iMtJ^ 4IA. Or Sundiy^ titer' «harch senritte» the men who had NHi iMt for the Mlmen ireturned : and part of Monday wai oceii* 5ied in elearting them and packing them in tlie Unka with iee. 'he aQOW had nearly left the land $ and, thia night, the nocturnal temperatere reae to 48**. There waa little to note on the two auh^x) Miquent dayat the neeesaary work for fitting out the ahip wu going on. The temperature fell, however, so much on the seventh* that it froie hard. The men were now ottUred to toceiv* tb'itt povnda ««f the freah fish every other day. -■•• i ' '^ , ^ 6/A» It waa tesa cold, yet at midnight the thermometer wan bat tt**. On the following day, it rained hard for twelve hooie, and „ the effett on the remaining snow was considerable. A native trrivod with an offer of- more fish, which we agreeil to purehase When brought) and we undertook to aeod for it while he pitched bia tent near us, witb his iamily. • '^■:.--^--m*^'k-"^^i^i'^'!^'^' ^ f '■"-"■\9tk^ In taking a walk to^ay* I found the ice not more than a * Ib4t thick in many plaoea, and ao brittle, that our weight broke through it. Our projected canal had melted away to two feet, in depth ol be^at the attr&te. Some dedu and other birda weao , MIed. i-% \Hki In the course of this Sunday our party returned with tlit '-■ iah for which they had been sent« It waa fojegy in ihr morning, • and tome rain came on at night, lasting till thefoUowingday. Thue H continued on the thirieettih I ao that. the. anew on the land was •Imost entirely diaaolved, and the ice covered by water. The aeve^ til worka went on in the mean time} and oiir apertamca abok, MMoiig other things, aome amall. birda that we did not know. ¥^ It did Mt chter up till the evening of thia day* whM if '^- r ...Ail's* ^ ■^^^ i A PHr- sioMRi fmrAM ev snoomiT b: bceame fine^ continuing so on the followinji; Any. At this timo t piece of ice cane up to the surface from benetth the ship so forci- bly, as to lift her up^n one side and cause her to heel, to the tem« Eorarfaliirni of those who wereMow. Qn shore, the mosquitoes ad just eemmenced their most unwelcome summer visit, and wer« in sWfrms. The thermometer was 42° at midnight. 16IA^ This day was fine, with a strong northerly breeze ; and our spostsmen were very sucoMsfui in shooting several birds* It ^tiil blew hard on the following, with some heavy rain. The outer part of {tl|e canal was now open^ ; <,;',: . s,^ , t ,4v^, 18/AJ Sunday's muster, aftelr service, found ihe men much im# provedj in consequence of the change of diet. -The ice round the sbipwiii now broken in pieces, and the snow^had entirely left the - hillV^ hot no clear water was seen at sea. . it „ .»- 19th. Calm and clear weather brou^t the moaquitoe« even on board the ahip, where they were very troublcmme. On this and tbefoUowJng day the thermometer was as high as 49° at midnight. On the twenty'first, the ice was so, broken up about the ship that we eowld have hauled her out to the end of the canal. The several chief stUs had now been bent ; and most of the painting, calking* and other repairs and alterations, were nearly finished. - ' «j t9Jv The weaither was really hot, as well as calm, the thermome- ter rising to 70'. The swarms (tf mo8i|uitoeB were as great and aa/ troutj^csome as in the West Indies. There seemed to be diflerent species ^ and a large kind ws^ the most venomous. The aame calm add wscoi weather continued on the following two days, bringing us to the end of the week ; but with as little variety of oceurrencf •a daring the^reeeding.^ We had work, indeed^ to employ us, but it was nevertheless dull. We were prisom»rs now, equally, by land and water; for the former was unfit for travelling inito piesent condition,- and 'as to clear water at ses, there was as yel none. Even out sporting was impracticable, except at midnight j aiich was the annoyance from the mosquitoes. '" ^ > » > st ^ i* 99iki A south wind drove some of the ice to the northward, fawt ftill we saw no clear sea from the top of the highest hill : the whole visible surface waa a compact mass of ice. B^ing Sunda^, no work waa done. But on Monday tlie Krusenstern was cleared out, and launched off the ice to the beach, that she might be reA paired and calked ; and as the ice was now in motion around us, It became necessary to moor to the rocks, on each aide. - This wan a day of hard rain for the most j>art.' * > >.. v.*^ji»*s_ 87IA. 'I he rain continued,' with a freah breeze and a lower tern* Siratura, by which we got rid of the mosquitoes for a time. Tho rusenstern'a and Other work wentoiD, on this snd the following day, part of which waa expended in reshipping such psrts of th« 9QiyHftii4BighLbftifiDni«ctiblo.to4he general usea of the •bip.~- W i . m,. • "i*f-'A ^■jamnc-wmrnnmi- m Among thege .wu Utt rinta shaft ; the eyiinder* %«n to be ent op for the purpose of exsmining their materials ; bat as the boilets \ and their frames coald be of oe use^ and were not worth the trans- £»rt in any state, they, were left on shore } with |he satisfaetoify fleetion, at leaat, that-they would.provii a Taluableiron mine Ibr oar friends the Esqninwux. . 'Mthi Some trout had been observed in the Isjke yesterday*; but being late iagdng with the boat and the net, we had only one hsul, and took but four. Thia day we set out sgain, and had the lock to take above a hundred, averaging a pound each. It was the b«t sport that we had had for some time, while it also Aimished two fUys* full allowance to the erew. On the next, there weremriy aeven taken^ Some rain felHn the evening, and also on the follow- - ing morning. This day, mere than a hundred trout were triieit I17 the net and the rod ; amoontin|( to upwards of seventy poondsi— The varioea worka had been going on aa usual ; and Saturday n^t brought them to a tflose for the week^ bringing withr it also the end of the month of Joiyi Although it had been « warmer and a better one than lane. It had not compensated for the lateoeas of the season in the two iire« eeding ones. Thi first^of August was srrived, and we had not yet . seen any dlwr sea, nor had any of the fee on it appeared to move. Still it was provable that the irat aeutlmrly gale would break it np, could that laat but for forty-eight hours; so that we ffligklStlH :. Med on hope. ,.>..;■.' , >..■,■,.«■, ; . The month had been uniform, and therefore eon^ieratively doll toua; but we had not at least been wearied for want of occupation.^ The ship had been eompletdy refitted ; and the new paintim, while . uaeful, had alao improved her appearance. She waa ao little leaky mw* sa not to make more Uian five or aix inchea of water in the twenty-four houra.^ Lee boards had been a^ilied t<^her, and we truated thattheae would improve her sailing ; of thedisposil of the several parta of the rejected enpne^ I have just q)oken.'V^««' ' The health of the men had ao for improved on tiieir amended iKet, that even the suspicious ones were, now quite well. This gfeataupply of fish was a Blatter of con^tutatieni and somewhat balanced our other disappointments. They who, in reading this Jouraal, may read of meat and eatings most add something to the common ideas usually aasoeiated in their minds with this sul^l. At home, a sood or a bad dinner is but a matter Of content (ur.tlie iBverse ; and the first salmon of the>seatBon ik> more than a luiniy. ^&M bad dinoeeof yesterday will aJao be compensated bv a bettar one to-morrow; and he who cannot get aalmon will easily find «i ifqui^ent. But to us, mod diet or lied, salt proviaions orfresh> jMlEced to tura thewakMietween aotivity and weakneas* health and '1 inieht hannan laaiiaed In hanwen hnt i ^.i n ^ m u i #1 i i' i^,-jt. ■'.- -.- ,-w;.^,-^.;;. ~"-r' — ^ \ (Swr>i!,*a*»»*,««i.*-s>''r»»-!p»--»< ■'■»-tm j-*->H'»t!"W^»««WV* '«w'*tf» * . r »' ><^- > « ) ia « --H ^^ ■ Hl^^-Il»! •',>,/> .•J'S?«-..>«Wr*t»..»()*«fclBi«t'*., ?«•*», *»W(--«H^ ■'■»*.>"*"*-«**;■ C»'1!'*<-"*P-*^- • ,t»*'»;. ■» ^ ^^r^•'»!f>B«i^VM■.I:|la,IW.«^^.^■■%q»,■,^,r«*«5'^•)ai-4)fc3!y -«>w«ipf#i9?»iir''»<*'***S*»'»'''w»»i :■';■■ riMitM^'-- :f^.rr■M!l.^^r.■^■^l^^^■''-''^^'M^-, X"- v^'fnW^-S ,:,*,r -.j^-v^y^fV-".^- •-iJ>ni!>'«-«j«a?-» ">fi »»' ,t;*oi»m\A'r»ui'*'fmi^''- . -Mew.-'-^te*^ '^;, -'fcN«.-sa«»»-H' 111*"* l^l>V«j: ««(:i»-<,J-V, .aj,.,v..- -■••I, ..i»-,^i.>-..*^r.j«ll,«<«-'Ji»j,^-„-f-,.J»|p,., ■»/«, v.-i>- 4. <.-:<«>-j|«* ■«»«<«*. f ->* -iJ.'; i-#w»!^i»jii8P.vi.a» .s*>w.«-s*»«Sfr-.>>i%;-.-«*i. • ■.•i^.>^- -Ktittitx- ^'i^^m**- .;.*»:■" .afl^isR- ■-*a(»isi'«v*5!i6«-<.««*:^-;'»*» '•.-»»■ „,«»■»«-. — -*«Mir*« »nt*»^ TO TM AKOtlC llOIOltf. flta. ■hoivcr or rain t but things lettled ^ick to the tiime state on the '^ following day, when a still larger trout, weighing nearly %ve pounds, was taken,- with about twenty others of the ordinary size. The Kruscnstern wss launched and brought alongside. tih. At five in the afternoon, a breeze sprang up and blew fresh from the soiith«westivard for ten hours*. This, setting the ice in . notion, carried away one of our hawsers, and the ship was forced •gsinst the rocksnear her ; but was soon got ofl* again, and secured, without any damage. This was a sort of return of our labours of the preceding autumn, but of a very different nature, as we now . hoped ; since it was the probable commencement of our liberation, ■s the other was of our imprisonment. This moving ice, howevet;, soon stopped nesr the shore: f'lrth^ir out, it continued in motion to the northward till two in the afternoon, when the tide carried it Inok, having now, at this spring, a rise of five feet and a half. .8/A« It was a foggy and rainy day, with variable winds. The men, in their walk after church, reported that there was much clear water in the large bay, but that there was a ridge between Fury and Hecla islands, and the point. The weather differed little on the following day, and on the tenth the rain was much heavier. It served to {Prevent all fishing, nor had our sliccess been very great on the preceding ones. The wind was to the north-westward, •nd became very strong, ao as 4o psck the ice as close as possible. Many seals were seen, and some water taken on board. • ll/A.' The weather improved: some fish were taken) and a aouthcriy wind caused the ice to move. By the' next day, under the same breete, much more cleared away, so that an extent of two miles of clear water was seen to the northward. A good deal was, however, afterwards brought back by the wind shifiing to the north: nor indeed would the tide have admitted of making an attempt to get out For many days now, the midnight temperature had been about 8a<*. 13M. The observatory was taken on board : the day being calm, ^ and no change in the ice. Nor was there any on the fourteenth. The fisbefmea were now supplying us with enough for our daily consumption. It was a memorable day, inasmuch as it wss the anniversary of our first visit to Fury Beach. The thermometer fell to 84* at night. There was reason, indeed, wfiy the night ahould become colder, as the sun was bow situated ; but there was less subsidence by much, than when it had been far higher, because the ground was then all covered with snow, and was now elsar ; thurretaining some of the heat which it had acquired during the day. 15M. The morning of Sunday had a favourable aspect, as a westerly breese had moved the ice from the coast ; but it soon ■ cfaugcd to the north-east, and all became as it had been before. 4« a:.„^ .-«-.™.»»--3:. tj^>; pjtl|ijr(ivti?fa . I ■'•■< f74 UOOHD yOTAOB Of DnCOTBRT / T(^e first star that we had yet seen for the summer, Capella, wu visible at midntght. The midnif^ht temperature fell to.6°i . I6/A. After a tranquil morning of westerly airs, the wind to> (i wards evening, became a strong breez^from the south-west ; but as the tide was very low, and the ice. aground, there was^ no mption with us, though there if/fia some in the offing. The following day was calm.and mild, and'thfre was no change in the ice. The mid- night temperature rose again to 34°. Nof was there i^ny thing worth noticing on the eighteenth. Our success in ^fishing, on all these";days, was very small; and we had to regret the loss of one of our -tame |8xes, after having been one of the family for six months. The vacancy of the sea, it is well known, makes even the flight of a gull or the rising of a porpoise an importan| -elf nt. IVhether the vacuum of wide-spread ice and snow, when tl||> ship is itself a prisoner, instead of being only a prison, be no.tq||t^h worse, th'ty must decide who have experienced both: but w4l shall probably be excused A)r considering the death of this unlucky 'l&x as among the important occurrences df our present life,- * ,, 19/A. A fine day, with a northerly breeze, was but a continu- ation of this now sleepy uniformity : our ship could do nothing; and we, little. The capture of so.-ne fish, and the occurrence of raiif at night, se|rce1y varie#the sameness of the following day. The twenty-first closed another week : m4v thus did the third week of August find ui where we had beeiv|Klrit;e. May in prospect, since September in place. The rise of tli^ t^de, during these past days, . had vacillated about the standard of- six feet ; having once been at more than seven, and being now five. The ice was still close, to the northward, under a fresh breeze. "' , i9d. It was the same on» Sunday ; though the afternooa was warn»er than it had been for a considerable time.^ There was an open lane of water seen from the shore, lying along the land to the westward of the furthest visible point north. On Monday there was no change : but in the night the wind increased to a fresh gale from the northern quarter, and, at daylight iwxt day, the ice was seen in n\pid mption to the southward, and packing into the bottom of the bay. The inner part of the harbour was thus cleared, as the coast was, for about two miles to the southward ; but afterwards, a pack of the ice streamed in, and filled all except the place where we lay, that being defended by the grounding of some heavy masses outside. 85M. The wind continuing to blow fresh from tl}e north-east- ward, the ice continued to accumulate so on us, tha^ a very small space was left clear. ~~^ ~ S6M. It was more moderate in the morning, with rain; but there was otherwise no change. Both the subsequent days were equally free of any events worth noticing, beyond some indifierent success in fishiltg and shooting, including the taking of a seal. — iii^ j* TO THX ABCTie BIOXOlTi. •11^ Another week was p>w, and the night thermometer hid little changed, varying between se** and SS". SVM, Sunday promi3ed something new, the wind , becoming • gale from' the north-westward. Thus the ice began to move with cqnsperalije rapidity, and the harbour was once more cleared. W^ tried.to console ourselves by recollecting Ihxt on the same day last year, the ground was covered with snow, and the tempei'ature ten degrees lower. SO/A. The ite continued moving to the southward till four o'clock, when it stopped, and remained stationary the whole day. On the following, there was no change In the weather till evening, when it rained from the westward, with a fresh breeze. We made ready fqr hauling the ship out into a pool to the northward of us, that we might be more in the way ofip extricating ourselves when the ice should fairly open. And with this was summed up the month of August. , The end of that month also left us eleven months fixed to one spot. Whatever value voyages of discovery may have in these/ countries, they are certa|rfly purchased at a high price in time/ thdugh there were nothing else. We might have rircumnavigated the globe in the siTme period; and I imagine no one was very sah> guine about future north-west passages, eyen should we contrive to make one ourseive^ / Th^t this was a month of daily, and hourly anxiety, of hopes and fears, promise, and non-performance, I need not say, while no record of feelings could give a picture of them. There were but four weeks of this never-assured summer tu come; and, really, the hope of its speedy arrival was by no means great. On many past days we had more than hoped, we had 'almost expected, that the next day, or the following, or some other not far distant, would release us; and they who inflected most, were perhaps the least easy under this constantly recurring disappointment. It was my business, at any rale, to keep up the hopes of the men, and, where that might be difficult, to find them occiipatioils to prevent them from thinking too much of the future. 4ii thi^, the permission to shoot and fish gave much aid, while the variety of diet this pro- cured them was also advantageous. Of their health, indeed, there was no reason to complain. - / The commencing temperature of this month was promising, but the northerlyAvinds of the latter portion were extremely adverse, since it was4he effect of these to pack the ice upon us as fast as it broke up. /6ne conclusion seemed obvious, namely, that the winter in that quarter had been particularly severe; though we had once thought^therwi&e, when observing how often the temperature rose when ;the wind blew from this point o( the compass. This was an unfayburable view of things; but there was no remedy. I need only add, that the highest and lowest degrees at which the thtt-. -■ hi X-., '** "y^fl? '•'^^" t76 ncoiTD rpTAO* OF SnOOTlBT mometer stood were 58° and 38* p\\u, and that the mean of the month was 40° 87* plus. ' Every thing about the ship, boats and all, had been entirely re- fltteil and made ready for sea— ^and she had never been so trim, neat, clean, and^i^omfortabl?. We h.id obtained abundant room by the dismrssalof tho engrhe; and that was no srAall gain, to cjom- pensate a^kri^, if thatYnachinery ean be esteemed a luss, whence we had denw^l so little advantage and undergone so much iiracm* venience and vexation. It was probable that the K«quim«ux wout profit fdr a lung timft to come, by the eaehea of Messrs. Braith* waite and Erickson. , > * / Having concluded,, for the present, a long train of observationaj it Was very satisfactory to find how well the chronometers ha^ performwi. No. 571 of Parkinson an'i Frodsham had coBtinuea iterate of plus I.I aeepnds per day without variation. The season' had been very favourable to vegetation, and the ool« leietioo of plants contained, as-was believed, many new ones. After 80 long a time of confinement to a narrow and unvarying society, it was highly pleasing to find that the general harmony waa un- altered. 1 CHAPTER XXXIII. Warping Out, Unloading^ and Final Sseeqte from our Har- bour — -Iiyeffectual Movement* among tki Ice-^Becomo fixed in the atiempt to find a New HarbotMr/or the Winter— Sum- mary of Septen^bfr. » Sept. 1st. Tats month set in with great severity; the thermo- meter was at the' freezing point, ainking finally to 89% and there was a violent storm of snow, which covered the hills for the first time this season: while it was also the aeverest gale we had expe- rienced during the whole summer. It varied between the weat and the north; and though it. continued topack jlhe loose teOj thia could not move far, being aoon atopped by the fixed mass at the bottom of the bey. (kir own passage to the maio waa filled by two large ieebei^ 'i id. The same gale blew, and was very heavy about two o'clock, %hen thero waa ao edipso af the moon, invisible to us. The ice wiaa drnring M tb« SMtiiward with great ntiidity, and packing it- ■I TO TI ABOTIO Biaioirf. m\( in immenie maue«. : In the evening the wind dininiahedlaQd the tnow which had Tallen on the hiJU diaappeared. 8(/. It did not blow aoLslrong, and the ice waa at a atand; but it Troie hard at midni;;hfi wilh the thermometer at 89°. The weather being fine hext day, and, expcctintja hifi^tide at two in .the morn* ing, wv attlempted to croal the bar between the iilandand the main; .;^u I before I we could warp outnt fell, ao much, that we remained, •ground in only fourteen inchea of water. By titia accident, how- aver, we pirofiled ao as to examine the Hhip's bottom, and thua alao repaired aev«ral amail' damages which she had received from (he ice. . Having aUJo ahored her up, we procee(|[ed to lighten her by dii- eharging fcjur tons of water, and. piiitin^ ten tons of other articles in . tha boata, that we mighr, if possih'le, float her off at the next tide; :~ laying out |)aw8ers to warp her off when iWn ahould take place.-^ There were showers of snow in the day, and the night whs equally •old. We Jiad thh miafortune of losing our best dog, which died. 0/A* We were obliged to work to-day. At two o'clock in the morning wo attempted to heave the aliip over the bar, but in vain. Tho wind had shifted to the so&thward, and the .tide did not rise so high aa before. It became necessary, therefore, to unload the ves- •bI, aa the tidca were now dim^ishing, while we could not run the ( iriak.of being neaped in this manner. A bridge was, in con*tequenee, laid to the r^oks, which were but eight yards from ua, and we car- ried ev«r it all our remaining store* and provisions, togethierAvith 'that iron-work of the engine which remained on* board. In IIm •▼•ning, the wind came to the eastwiard with aome snow, giving ua hopes 01 a better tide the next day. Three treenail hoM were here discovered in the ship's bottom, in the search after a leak which had plagued us, and they were accordingly secure^ 0/A. A shift of the wind up towards the north produced aueh a tide as enabled us to heave off the bar very early in the morning. Yet the iee had ao grounded, that we could not advance far enough to atroid grounding ourselvta wheorthe^tide ahould fall, and did not theneo dare to bring on boara much of what' had been landed. ,> During the day every thing was covered with anow, which partiallr disaolved under ao evening. haze; and at night it was clear ain ftpoaty.^" . .. 7/A. It blew a gale from the northward during the nighf, bet the ice did not move. Towards morninfr, we contrived to heave out, so aa to get a foot more Of water, which enabled us to proceed, with the reloading of the ship ; and^ after this, by aid nf the ice at- oitr bows, nte gained another foot, tiius advancing about ten^fvet in .distance. Thia waa a depth sufficient to allow us to relrad eo- tircly ; but that caused us work enough for two daya. irtovther^ mometer waa 5° hijtiher, and there was some snow, h^^ 8/A. The ehanges in the wind and..w^ther were trifling, and we liroceeded with the reloadinu; of pur ^iselui*gcd s|ores ; alao cuttiog r m i' ~i!i*te,«. , a, V- t 1 # .. •; .„*. fl tl , c . MX. ^••'.: ' ■ :• •'\- ,. '' \ ■* /> • V ^ ■ 1 ' t- 1 V t ,C" ) « ,' <• ,«. tf "i. . 4i> ' i 5^ -/ ' ■ ■ - J w * * •/ - ''<>■ '■•• 1 • " .^. '^ . 1 ° ■ >' r 8, J ; i * ■ . *, ^ .^ * • .« o ■8 ' .- . * \ Afc; iY8 8SC0ND VOrAGE OV filSCOVSHT i ■■-. ^ ■■> some ice at our bows, that we might have no obstruction to our next attempt. The followine day was.withput chanjE^e or interest, except that more ice was cut,' and' the ship hove a few, feet ahead. Every thing, hbwever, was g6t on board and stowed. The next day did not advance us even a foot. The lakes on shor^ had not yet frozen, though there ^was ice on the pools. llth. The wind came to the southward, but was not sufficient to remove the heavy ice. The pool between the island and the main was covered with thin bay ice, having a very prognosticating evil aspect; and the temperature fell with the setting sun to 21**. We still went on cutting the icev^and the ship was hove tf little further ahead. The cold weather seemed really coming on, as the thermometer by midnight was 18°; and the shooting of ducks was now rather a vexation than otherwise, since we could see that they were returning to the southward. 1 2th. The changes of temperature to-day were ver^ unexpected: the thermometer ranging from 16" to 4 1-> between four in the morning and noon. The men Xvho went, on shore after church, found the water, nevertheless, completefy covered with bay ice. 13M. Thfere was some damp snow on Monday, and though the wind was southerly, it was light, and had no effect on the ice at sea. In the night tide, the ship was hove about ten feet ahead, and that which «?e had to cut through was not fro7en to the union of the «eparate fragments. The next day was fine ; but this was not fa- vourable weather for us who were in want of a gale, and that gale, too, to be of our own choosirig. The midday heat was "tKe same. The sight of a hare that had been shot wis by no means gratifying, for it had not^ acquired its winter dress. iSM^The wind having freshened in the nifi^ht from the southward, the Ice began to move north about the time of higtt water, and after daylight it was very loose, and full of lanes ahd pools. The night tide allowed us to heave some space ahead, and the day one brought us into five fathoms water, though not two ships' length from our position of yesterday. What remained on shore of. iron-work, an* chors, and other things, were now, therefore^ got on board: bu^ that furnished us pccupation for the whole day J We were conse-' quently ready to start by evening: but the breeze died away, with the ice still drifting up and down before the ti(le» in th^ calm. |6M. That wind was of Tittle service to-day, being light and unsteady, between the south and west ; but as the\ ice near us was becoming slack, the ship was hove out two cables*, length, to take idvantage of any opening that might occur. Some lanes of water appeared in the evening, along the shore to the northward. The thermometer was 40° in the day, and 29° at midnight. It fell to 89* before the following morning, and there was an aurora borealis. At daylight we could see that the ice had drifted off the Iand,^t *hgw> was still a complete ridge between the ship and a hrfeof \^ w ate r w hich l e d lu a yuiut three mi l es to ti reTRffthwifff. — XBoqr 'J \^ ^^r^ to THE ABOTIO KEOIONS. 971 two in the afternoon, however, it seemed to be breaking up ; when we immediately cist bff,'warped through the bay ice around us, and in ha4f an hour our ship was at length ortfee more in. clear waterj and under sail. Under sail — we scarcely knew how we felt, or whether we quite believed it. He must be a seaman, to feel that the vessel which bounds, beneath him, which listens to and obeys the smallest move- ment of his hand, which seems'^to move but under his will, is a thing of life, a mind conforming to his wishes ; not an inert body, the sport of winds and waves. But what seaman could feel this as we did, when this creature, which used to carry us buoyantly over the ocean, had been during an entire year immovable as the ice and the rocks around tt, helpless, disobedient, dead. It seemed to have revived again to a new Ijfe: it once more obeyed us, did whatever we desired ; and in addition to all, we too were free. It was the first burst of enjoyment on the recovery of our liberty ; but we were not long in finding, as other pijrsitiers of other liberty have found, that it Was a freedom which was to bring us no happiness. Thus free a| last, we advanced about three miles ; but then fiM- , ing a ridge *f ice, we were obliged to miike fast near the point which was at that distance to the north of us ; and in 9 sufficiently commodious harbour between two icebergs, we passed the night. We shot some grouse on shore, to pass the time, and saw many seals. The thermometer at midnight was fiO". ^6th. In the meantime, the wind came round, unfortunately, to the southward, and, by mnrning; our passage was blocked upj so that we were compelled to remain. In the offing, it was sweeping up and down before the tifle; and, in the evening, as the wind be- came northerly, it' went away rapidly once more to the southward. There was much snow to-day, and the land was entirely covered. Four hares that were shot, did not much comfort us under this de- tention, however they might varyjour dinners. 19M. ^ gale had come on suddenly last night, and, continiiing till high water, this forenoon, as it served to raise that tide consi- derably, our bergs floated, but did not change their position so mucK '- as to destroy our harbour; while the arrival of a large floe pro- tected us from a pressure that- was now threatening to be consider-, able. Every space was indeed filled by the ice ; but as the wind erased, it did^ot fix, being kept in alternate motion by the tideai. In the evening it was a little more slack ; and there was nothing in this day to make us neglect the duties of Sunday. The thermomettt* WM*|ft»'' at midnight. «W^, JJPlie ice opened so slightly under a westerly breeze, that it f^fbdefed us no service ; and, as we were frozen round by new ice> '/ Wf xf^% obliged to cut around the ship. Our detention Wfis mora . ''«|ii^fectly ass*ured the next day, by a south-easterly one in the morn- >»^» ifrioging the ice in upon u»» After m»ny changesy it at laat wt- p 4 -f f!.: 880 SECOMO VOTAOB OV DISCOVtBT (\ *» HP 14^. • tied in the norlh-norlh-weiit, and blew. a heavy" gale. The ien beipg Ihiii aet in rapid motion, came- in contact with the ber«. whicli prolecled u^, and forced them and us together, onwarda, tul bur stei'n was within twenty yards of the rocks. The Kruaenslern waa at the same lime forced out of the water. It was fortunate that the icebergs which covered us were not carried away, else we shsuld have gone with them into the moving pack, orbeen driven on the rocks; each of them but' hazardous po8i:iona, if not wj>rae. The temperature fell to 48°, and there was >«now with this gale. 22d. It continued on the next morning, yet the ice in the bay teemed partially cleared. But, after this, coming to blow evep harder, we were worse blo^ed up than before, though there was still a lane of water in the bay. It was, however* thie only clear water visible ; all els^ was a soUd surface of ice. At night the wind Was much more mo(!erate. On the following day there was no change. We were completely frozen in, and were obliged to cut round the ship, that she might right herself, having been heeled over by the ice. S4M. Th6re was a heavy fall of snow all day, and^^it continued on the twenty-fiflh. The week waa expended, and we werti Idle ■nd immovable. The thermometer, from having been at 24* for the past days, reached to 30°. Stt/A. There was nothing to interfere with the services and re- pose of Sunday; and no change. The temperature, hqwevery seemed gradually falling: it had been but 7° in the night, ilflU was no more than 14° all Monday. A lane of water waa seen near the islands that were next to us. It became wider on the following day ; BO that, had we not been imprisoned, we might have made some progress to the northward. S9(A. was covered with bay ice. The surrounding hummocks were^slso'^ cemented together in such a manner, that nothing but a storm could separate them. , Our hopes of a liberation were therefore faat paas- ing away ; and our work was now to cut through the ice, so aa to •ttain a^arbour thatwas likely to prove our home for the better pert of ilrother year. It waa found to be a foot thick ; and as there were also many heavy pieces in ttie way, our progress was neces- ■arily very slow, and the labour hard. There was not wind enough to prevent the formation of bay ice. ' 80/A. Under the continuance of the same low temperaturei the «rhole sea was now covered with ice. There was no longer, there- fore, occasion either to hope or fear: and there was an end to all ■nsiety at least. The agitation under which we had ao long la- boured had subsided into the repoiie of absolute certainty. Our winter prison was before us ; and all that we had now to do, was to raaeh it, set up our ampitibious house, and with one foot on Mt aad mahote, «« take patience to ourKhrei*** .w ««# «aa^ ifl^a »■■ TV aa «■• i. The thermometer fell to 6°, and the clear water of yeaterday »vcred with bay ice. The surrounding hummocks were also' TO TUB ARCTIC REOIOR8. 981 Though we had done much« we still, however, found it very hard woric to cut through the remainder of* this ice, which, though half. newly formed, was already sixteen inches thick, independently^ the broken pieces from the former ^nter that were mixed witK it. Thence, what we Had cut oS was to be lifted to the surface* as it could not be sunk under the field ; and, in consequence, we oidy made eighteen feet waydhPtSts and the preceding day ; aislow navi- gation, thpugh,. fortunately, our harbour was not very fiir off It seemed almost a fated period for us; as it was the very anniver- sary of^ the day which had fixed us not three miles from the spot vChich we were now seeking to occupy; while -weyietd perhaps again captives — and who could conjecturei^^for another year. . It WAS the end of September; but the summary of Se^ember,, "^^^t is pne of the least agreeable that I have yet to record. , ;; It was now winter, without dispute. Theoretically, il ou^'to have been such ; and that it was practicaltv so, we had long beeii sure, whatever efforts might have been made to flatter the naenj <>C ourselves, that it was otherwise. It had been a bus]^.^ a labo- rious month ; but it was busy idleness, as for as any resut ^ad fol- lowed, and a|l the labour had produced no return. It was, in every sense, a wasted month, and it had been an amply provoking one : there was not one in all the preceding year in which we Jiad not done something useful, or at least made preparations for it ; thun finding occupation; diat satisfied ns ; while there was not one which had not held out, what was even better, hopes, and those mo«l lively when the chance of release was most distant We had now to hope again, for nearly another year ; to count months, weeks, even days, yet with le^s confidence than we had done during the last winter. He \i||o can hope a second time aa he did the first, is of a ttiore fortunate copstitution than some of our pbople se^ed to be. The despondent could not conceal their feelings; thoiigh, of the ffreater number, I am bound to say that their contentedness, or rawer re- signation, exceeded what I had anticipated. It was my business to show them the brighter side of thisf)ieture, by recapitulating our success in discovery, the excellent condition of our ship, the com- fortable home whicn we had now learned to make of i^ our ample stock of provisions, our good health and peace, and the better har- bour which we should now secure, as it was one also whence it would prove much more eady to extricate ourselves hereafter. But the bright side of life is not easily seen through the dark one; and I had, therefore, to trust to time and habit, and^to hope that be- tween our own resources and the communications of the mttiviss, supplied, as we expected to be by them, with fresh provisions, and, before Ions, with the power of renewiQg our expeditions by landi , time would pass on, and the present evils become lighter. In raviewmg^ the- weather and the temperature dunng this month/ .^^- < > i i w •*r-* -j.-^. \i S83 SEOOHD VOYAOB OF DISCOVERT it is seen that it was more severe than that of the prmMiiig Sep- tember ; and thus, being an earlier winter, it also •promised to be a . worse one. The highest and the lowest in th^^resent were 4S° Uid 5** pliu, and the mean 27^ 43* plus : in t^i^ former, the two &M had been SO" and 8' plus, and the last SS*" plus. In the Sep. Ismber of 1839, there were several j;ales from the west and south, Which' cleared the coast in such a manner that it could often h^ AftvigctM; but in the present one, there had not been a singfe breen from thosf, quarters, capable of making anv impression on tl|» ide. On the. contrary, there had been several gales from the Mlrthward } so that as fast as tiiat which was in the southern part (if this sea dissolved, the (q[>aoe was filled by the arrival of heaVier fas as if the northern ocean were send- sr ; and we knew that it was now an inexhaustiUe supply; while, aa if the blockade was not already sufficiently complete, every little shift of wted from the north to the eastward, filled up the little ba;^s whieh mi^t have dforded us a retreat Bad, too, as this was in Itself, it wai rendered much more eflectually so by the state of the lides, wittoh did not allow these masses ,to float agaitf, when once agvouod ; so that th^ could not be removed, even though we had euC th«n, while, when once taking the diore, thev became as much t part of it during the ensuing season, as the rocks themsdves. > ' I need not, in this summary, go back to any ^neral record of tte i^)'s proceedings or our own; they offer less interest than ntoali and we Iwd not been in a situation to make any observations «f moment Our sporting calend&r presents little more than some IMtbM fiiii^ iKt seals, aiMl the ineflnctual pursuit of a white bear. masses finom (he north, ing all its stores into this qu the unquMtionable parent ot r^- '■♦ 1- -J ■.<* ■^■^^-■ 'lit , » , , , vr Ijf. \' "-^7- ni« ■* . • *■ ' at fr Tc *^^^#v ' .m:JL ■^v^-- TO THB ABOTio asaioits. 988 i i ; f ' =fc CftdPTER XXXIV. Liibour ineutHngf/iroug/rthe ice— Become Jixed for themtita^ » T \, Summary of the month. :v< # i Oct \. OoTOB»» commenced with clear weather, and, in tha course of the day, a strong breeze from the westward broke un ao muchx)f the bay ice to le north-east a« to dispUy^Uttle dear water, h made no impression, however, on the rough ice which was attached to the land; and one of the bergsnw us "jj^wp^ under our quarter^ wo received a violefnt concussion. The labour of cuttuw our way was renewed, and with rather better laccesi. i Thethe?mometerwiai W° at ni^t. %d. On Satur^ty Aawwaa little change, except that our labonr was harder; and m Ibis position we ended another week. •.^.>.^ \ijn, 80. We were obliged to persevere in the samejiadioui t^l and the whole gain was but sixteen feet, which, however, released us from the pressure of the icebergs. This had been very mcop*. venient, if nof more;. since they rose above her gunwale, and W lifted her up in such a manner, as to suspend dm tteee or lour teet hiffher than the water which she drew. 4 iSre WM ihotvin the day. and a gate firom the north m ^ eVJC inK.thenightthermometerfellingtolS*'. At daylight on thBsigh, the weather wm fine, and the breeies had broken up the new bg ice to the northward, so as again to show some cljar y«*«f'_™» ship was cut in as far as twenty feet mtore; bemg thus much MU«r to our intended position for the winter. Being calm and clB« « night, the temperature fell to 10*. ^ . . , ..iu-*«.»-^ Uh. We advanced fifty feet this day, but had onjr « feet waljr at the ebb: though we were now at tength clear w,»^»»»2[*J Towards the foltowing morning, the thermometer feU to ft ; •!»> •» \ i ■ 1 ■ ' ^ * ■' ' .:; t • ^ ,) t ■ v* ■ • • •Jv ST * ■ • V- • ♦ . ■ ■ f' ■ I • |« /. ' f •v , »^ •ML 964 s^iiD yoYAfls or discovert \ davligbt, Ihere mis not an atom of water to be seen in any direction. AU jNfai ice f ana it is reinarkable,.that this day was the anniversary . x^ of the Mune event in the preceding yeav. We however, gained fifty feet more; aqd, on the followinfs day, forty ; but being now but in three ieet water, we were obliged to ehore the vessel up. The ther- mometisr had been always low, and, on fliis night, wa8/>nly 2°; but« » t|ie weather was calm and clear. •■ ' . ip'A* Itwas now apparent, that we should soon be obliged to . 4 . *dd|)t the negative scal6 'of the thermometer as well as the positive. • « «taod at zero thi« morning; and it had not reached that point last year, till the 10th of the same mbbtfi. We were thus obliged, 'igftin, tp.labour on Sunday; since another forty-eight hours of such frost, would render it extremely difficujt to cul the ship in; as the ■ ice arouiid heir was, even now, thiee and four^eet thick. Nor had ' We ifiade more than the half of our needful voyage; while it was ■' ftbflolutply necessary for her safetjf^j that she should be removed to \^ we ^her^ she could float, .which was not lea than a hundr^ ^f'*™soffi^We gained but thirty feet by all our exe^^^ ,, IIM. The weather did not change, and we advanced fohy-sfive* fw,raism^ |he thermometer to 12°, and at last to 22", iC,ttidnieht More orthe can^l i^as cut, but the wind prevented liHlf from heaving the ship into it. This gale increased in force till ttie B()6|y|a|( of the M^th, wHien it fell cftlm ; and .we could see mat the nJew ice h» the offing haid been once more broken up, so as to thb\i^ BOintf dfear water,' The shiip, was advanced fifty teet this day, and forty-five wa the followilkg ; but she did not yet float at low waters '^The weather was variable, and the thermome^r did not mi^rially alter. % v A7th, A week, a second week, bad done Uttle for us, and we were obliged to make Sundajr once more a <)ieyof work, thus advancing' ^ityieet A gale, which had arisen the nidit before, continued tut noon.. We gained twenty more on. the Monday, and saw that the cleartnter to the northward had enlarged. The following day our prpgresa was thirty; while the ice w?8 so heavy, that we were ■ obliged tb heave the pieces up by the capstan. From the shoiel . ' could see that .the ice was forming again in the water, which thev\ gale had cleared dpring the precetung days. ^80/A. The temperature fell from lSFto4°. , We gained thirty feet in advance, but found the ice rapidly increasing in thickness* On the twenty-first our progress waa fortyfeet, and we had entirely fT' YO tiriAROtiO RKOIORS. 285 lost right of the ekMur water. A strong^^le, with, snow, impeded this work on the followins morning ;«^ut m the evening we gained fourteen feet which eoabfed tu to float at low water. On the neM day we gained as many more. Daring these four days the weather had varied mufeh, and the temperature changed with it; but it - 'was. generally higher than it had lately been, and was this nkrht at2P.. ' ' 34/4 It liras necessary again to'occupy Sunday, as before; and , \ ' the work was harder than usuftl, since the ice was about rixteen feet thick. It was too heavy, therefore, to lift, even when it was _ cut, nor could we sink it : so that we were obliged to cut ai spraic? ,,_&r>;the fragments in the thinner surrounding neld, that we might lodge them on it, and th)i8 make room to pass by. What was ^,done, was not, however, finished in time to enable us to heaye the shipwiy further in advance! V - 35/A. This was alfine dear day,' but the theraiometw M'iuM below vro. Out appaiirently endless work Wail resumed ; and on the following day the heavy piece in our way was removed, and ,' the place for its reception was cut so as to allow us to advance ' forty feet On the next lire gained fifty, and were at length afloat at low water. We had seen a go6d many hared, foxes, and birds, fotf some days pa^t, daring our walks on the shore, but hlid shot lit^ tie or nothing. ■ ^ ;\ 28/A. Hie weather seemed to have seriously cjianged this day « the temperature, from ^ro, in the morning, went down to minus 10? at night. 20/A. The snow on shore was kinee deep, and made walking very laborious^ We guned but thirteen jeet; the ice being.very thick', and freezing again as fast as it was cut On the next we advanced fourteen more, so 9\ to have eleven feet 'at low water;* There was snotir at ni^t, and the temperature rose to fS* plus. 80/A. We now cut six fieet further; it was not much, and there were two hundred yarda^rismaining before we could obtain deeper . water or a better Jposition, being work for a hundred more da[^s, at the same rate. Uut the ice was daily becoming so much thicker, tjiat we coidd not hope to make apy impression on it during that ' nme, at all proportional to whi^t we had already eflfected ; and as our place was at Jeast not very unsafe, hemmed in as we were all round by ice, we concluded oapptting ip endtb] our labours and .,4 and remaining as we were. Sl«/. We could, therefore, at length > make Sunday a day of prayer and rest, nor was that less accepta- ble than necessary. The Summary of 'October can be little but the abstract of oar ~^ labours, since the whole month had been employed in making a worse than tortoise progress, the entire ajnount of which, after all our toils, W|is but eight nundred and fifty feet We had not even,. with all this, reach^ the place that we had intended ; we were. t^'i I^ V 'i .? Tii { >i ""» ■» ... . «« !■? , . "»• ate SDOOIIO VOTAIHp OF mtooxKir iiowe woidd have been idmost uninhabitable, from her motions and chamm of posi- tiwi, and might also have been destroyed. . If the graduaUy increas- ing thickness of the ice, added to the necesaty orheaving iqp what could not be BQxk in the usual manner, and tq the oflten severe wea- ther, rendered tins an unutnially laborioin milHitb to the people, the toil seemed to call forth the zeal and display the perseverance of ei^rv man. . No^opie^s health was affected; and on the whole, there had been a not unexpected advantage in thi^ peipetual occupation, sinde it had diverted their attention from their obivious sulqect of grievance and trained them to a new detention, for another win- ten \ .y ,.-;-^ ^ '■-.' ■-'•■■.,; . ^ ;■..;:' .:;-.,.;■ r- ■■ As we were now to commence a fresh residencfe, for little less than another year, at the best, having jedready undergone one of thirteen months, it became proper to take an account of our provi- sions, and to regulate the expenditure and the nature of the diet for the. period on which we were entering. These details can have little interest for general i^eaders; but as it is in such thin^ tlwt navigators seek for information, they cannot be (waitted : whiter foi^ the convenience' of the latter, and not to occupy the time of th4 former, I shall here state them in the briefest manner, as the origi- nal report was drawn up. ' , ^ iin : % TO ASOnO RMIOII8. W7^ ^ iV«M«iMW M l«M^ 4 ^ Ficl*y m AtJSntif Otbitr, ieSO» ttiA Hu Airmgmnt$ Of muh fir tki Btaft ««. ""It' lb. 7998 8164 Andraw'afioarlGlidK Soott's floor 7 Ms. ooprtuniag Fury's floor 8 omI BBedwy'o awt S6 Ih. Fory*!^ Id0«> 1080 ilr. Bedwtffk nUM 700,i»«pd >|00«S000do. 8dt bNf 3844 Ok Mb pork 5350 lb. m6\Si lb." 'PrafbrajHnftraS « -ISJIU Raniilnf onbd. 17,3M This maf/tan iwbwl LMithuiferSTMn SISO But wMi 1-18 aBoiMaw 6r irai* wai aolylut to Jqm J 1,1833. 1 Ptropottioa ofialtbetC l_ pork« and pnaorred .._::!____ f niMilftr37 13.081 J — nm'i^xKihi. 184150 oBtiialT in Mit pork; Itm- bdnig with oHotiuoo /^ ^ ^ only 3i of pork - A, - " v ■»!*•***• Mnr3bdaudI1toK Ftai7 8|B.104»llik littBedirdlll84nK ' 1 lifc . . . 8333 f . .A ^ 80j 1 ftt 91 TCOfO iadod-. WwMte 3838 B&finoiidnc on booid • 3738 Qnintitro^oasw,dibrtor3joari.ftam0olober 1,1830. . . Ibm 90\ Coooo 6 eueo, termed BedmD, 595 :nir7^boRd% 614 — 1309 Ibo. Fraportian\ Ibr37e>nl3711b. Dift 163 lb. lev thuitTOyeui> proportion. V RBtdie 163ibactfiirtwoyeonaMdegoadbrte»l dxrt, 83 Ik 1-6 ditto, 14 lb, whiA will oomiMoteoandooooo fir two yeonk ^ F^i. ipl^7) eufci, 18 bwfi.i6 galL; roond da 1 boff, 3 boib. 6 galL « 33 budi. 4 gaU. Fh»artionftrtwoy«ua,33bDdi.4'gdL»ehartartwoyeuo,10bodh. Spiriti, ram, 130 gdL; tUM,350 lb.; Lemon-joioe fir one ywr at the prennt oDow- PieklMbd aoMdl OMkf : dieed kmoB 9 eaaeo; Moatard 3 bono; Bailej 3 eaik%and » iaro. - ' ' 11uaboidMh«orpreaerfedaoape,fllwbidiwohaTB 100 gall, wbidi,tog«diar with aoaAtfwina,atoreaar«^fir-dw8iok. Fbidia(,tfaMroibro,aittwodioaH hoTopran. aioM at dw iDowasM hMt oofBidmt to aavport natnre in tiM dfanato, oatil the period In 1883, «im nvflMathBtoddMrNnehad Ok Fmy'aatoro grannd where time are rtiU aome n mMm hk, or anat abandon te aUp to aave oar lifea, we dXwmiii a d to aako Oe fiOowint ananganaatias aDggaalad, biy Hr. Thorn; iHiieh, by ginnf the men a eoimday ando maatday aUimatdyidiimf ■xmantha,to oemmanooftomthefiratof Nofmbar, 1830, appsMod to vi^ dw diet betlei dnm any odier edMm wUflh wo flooU 1. Moadiy-4poandealtbeerttd|poBndarfloiir. ■^ ^ j_ , 9. TtaMd^>-4 pomd pimerwd aiaat. and | poond ditto with bariiy u aoqp. 8. Wtdneaday^l papad of port, wA pjpae eoap. _^ 4. t1 m id ay -4 pma^ of ptoaKrad maat witt i pound ti proaemd meat with hariay aoan. ».FHdB|^ pomd of aaltbaei; and I pound of floor. .. ; . >. . 8. 8^ind^>--|pMiid «r pioainod amt with | pooMl of ditto IMda faiM bulijr 7 flMilij I pond oTpoA with , ^ aMaadM^paadorpnHmdiMatawithTaietableeoiq^ tlmthei hm aoM oa aiz dm 00* of of«7 aigfat-«ld on the o«hv two, beef and iililll iMiiiiililii ■iiiiiimliiii ii dial wooU bo oMafaiad. Thoa wo trartad On* haaMi and alMvft woold bo kipt op. N aa to anaUe thai to go Orai^ tho ftiiftrii of imimif hUhonri^I. > I M Hi ' i^ ■ \ 1 1 . 1 w. ^l i * 38R "V SBOORD VOTAOB QV DiaOOVBRT • tlie place of the ship, I must now remark, was in a bay extend* ing to the south, after entering the inlet to the eastward, which was termed Sheriflf^ bay, while the point; to the east was called Watch point - ^ Though the clear water in the oj9ii^ did not reach so far South as in the preceding year, it was 16nger open : and notwithstanding the occasional severity of theisold, the mean temperature was higher by five' degrees than in the corresponding month of 1829; the high* est having been 24, and the lowest 12. It closed also at plus 34°, being 40'degreeti higher than on the final day of last October. On the whole, having but the surgeon to spare for the chate, the produce in hares had been respectable; but this tract having been the residence of the Esquimaux in the preceding year, the animals in general had been frightened away or extermmated* The place where we were now fixed was very near to the huts which they had then inhabited. i-.\' ■m- i^nicn iney 1 * av« ten , -■ ^ bee . / . ,y nie -'■■■■ con ; ■ . ■ '■^~"'- nej wo ■ ; w. . ■ ■ (> anc • » ■ ■ . ■ * ' ■• ■ , ^we ■•' ■ / ing t8 ■ / • lov x ' X chi / ■ > V ( ■..'■•'. wo . -•'' \ '"''._■ mn ^* --.r f- .' y r ■. ^ MM ■' ■ ■ r, ■" :.\- . y« ■v- ■ .•', >•■■? ■ rai ele v-..i'',#: •■■■■ six nui 1 , ^^.^.• ; , ; ■ . ■ • -. •■ . ■ ■ Ul ■ '-';-'.,'.-=.■ ' ■ ■-■ ■'■ ■■ ■■'■ ■'•. ws 1 ■ :'.-^y- ,: ^ J^t V - ' bei :-;>N^i^;-^--.. ■: :n,:- ■ gn h' in ixtend* .h was . iVatch «oath / inding higher 1 high- is34°, r. te,the 5 been limals place 1 they %: ' TO TBI AAQTia RKOIOM* CHAPTER XXXV. ». >:-. ) Tranahetioru in November — Summary of that Month— Proceed' ings in Jkeembert with a Summary*' Nov. Ut. Tan month hegjon at least favourably; th^ temperature averagbg 21" plus, with winds varying both in direction and in- tensity. To commencd^our winter preparations, the sails were un- bent, and the topmasts unrigged and taken down. On thefollowing ^ay, it blew a hard gale, whick^ afterwards moderated, and the %erm(Mneter fell to mmus 4°. The raftering for the ship's roof was commenced, and ii was continued on the rollovring day. On t^e 'next it blew, with snow, so hard, that the men were confined tQ work below. It was from' the north ; but the winds changed much, and the thermometer also varied between zero and plus 34**. 5th. This day the roof was covered with sails: the valleys and mfines on the shore were filled wiUi snow. The condensing tanks ^ere replaced in their old position. 6th. On Saturday our cover- ing was completed, the deck cleared, and many matters put to rights. There was.snow on both days, and. the temperature did not fall*be> lowSS^i^us. Sunday was a di^ of rest sand the regularly of our \ church service was re-Mtabluriied. ' 8th. It snowed so hard in the forenoon, that the men cou^ not work outside : but there was plenty of work in ,tbe hoM. On the ninth they were eiAployed in breaking upi the smm toond the ship, and OB the following, in banking it up, as they Vd don» last year. The weather on those two days varied Ai^ch, and tba range of thermometer was firom plus 10** to minus 1^**; but, on the eleventh, there came on a very severe snow-s^ so aa to freeze that which was pure. The period of the real fram- ing of oMrcury, between the two seasons, differed therefinw ky nearly two months. Having reserved the meteordogical tables to ttn appendix, I have not bitherto introduced any such record into the journal of our transactions ; but as many readers will never consmt those, I here add a specimen df the present cbmpariaon, which will at laaat show the manner of this registry. 3. ■ >v ^ > ^ -.*.'Sa ' <• i'> i , ■> ^&: » T f^ !• : 111 4. AbHmt ssoovo; vorAOB or oisoomr , (pi»WW «« 1899, .11 tt« JS^ ^^ '^'^ •'^^ ■■A. . /^ToMi*rfglrt-iOoi,7i6'J~ ****•"«•« ^^ 15"^»S 10O.866 (TsMUaiglit 183M0. St- many^^'^^ *°-^' ^i'"» «».^3 f -f '4*^' .7SS.615 40;7a3.6« $0,616 4oiM)0 40.6683 >i^»Ww«i.l836a«p9,Jy4dv«i,.d7.4* >i8se »5 «*'9A.a.86.667&87 ■tS^r.ii.S6.6366S /' . ■»»»«< 41.19) aeration. ^ *"** ""*' ^"^ « moit important consi- than in tSprecoZf^r'^^hfl mZ.^;** uT.T ^'^'k *»"er Mii:ib^si?co:iiStionr.5^^^ waVand aXw J23 "y snow ment had gifen a SHLTimtioSi rJ^"- Jhe transit instru. and I had ^^n rbSSSe AafZlTSS l^fj^}^ ^^^'' not alittbo^ tTtSbSJSi^ -^ of themen waa and body fully &c^I^^* •"'*'**' ^^^ kept both the mind in^bu ili' tlSii^r «^'!2^°* of December to the feel- ^ iSVnthetakT^Twol^.^^^ The two Willow partridgS^ISt-^^^^^^ \ - \ . \- I • \ - TO tnt AKOTM BflblOVfl. • much contracted, even 'had thei^been game, since it became daii ^ l^^A ^'^^^^S'. .^"* ^ was the MnaSert evil ariangfroTSS short days, tvhich so utterly impede travelUng in the^lepth of mS- ter; though «,e state of thigs ffuttle better in sunTnie^whw^ nSSw ?® T^r "^ *^^ ■**** °^ *•» »°« "^n^^er it equally ^m: pracucable foirthe far greater part of thaMeason. Th?whdte of we IS here c»tailed : sea and land, summer and winter, it is diffi^ cutt to say which i^yorst; and I beUeve a sound philosopher would W» L*^* °*'"°''"*''"r*f** •* « the Esquimaux*%loneTho hew know the true secret of happiness and the rational art of Uviflg; Srvt^'f.^" not hkdy to grant this ^ijeat and hiny sought &! SS-^",'^^°'?« P^^*"' ^ ^'M *» obliged to adSiit that AnSTf.ni'^'iJ!^*?* ■**^**»«'^ ^'»'«*' she S. been termML And ,f to eat and to sleep, to sleep and to eatj^in, be a mode of SS;^ "?}!* ^ been disputed in other laSs, however U S practically followed, no one wiUcontest its value here, or will doubt falw*^*!?^.'*'^' ^ 'T "d consummation of human happiness, the Esquimaux eats but to sleep, and sleeps but to eat f ^ '!i^,"??"c" ^f *'*" • ^*'** *»««»' "« *» do 1 The adaptau?n Sl!!;?*ii't"'**/P'*^""*^'"*«- Had we been better edicated, ^ 7nnTi-^^ uf *''l"T^>"* ^^ ^*"* ^®"» «•* <>f.our element. «T^mu"'*®P!"'*'~I*y°^«fe""»*he geography of it. c^. The weather was not disagreeable, though; in the day. the thermometer was but minus W^.^Tsing in the evening to 2". Uwu arranged that two watches of the men should walk on shore in the ;Kn'l^"l*^u**T?f' ■«* *'^<» » *e afternoon. I need not say o !!i?* r " ?^" *^W one of the preventatives of scurvy. We took J Se on Si^fSf.'^P- ^» WewS«ni.« the night,'aS there w.: ISfe S?.?"**'*"'iSf""'*"J?«'*'"t»t soon abated, though there il o JT! ^"tbtf evening. The tide was observed ti be afirreM- J" «» rt bad fonnerly been in our other harbour. '*"^"*e^ !♦ I'^P^^ ^" ?^®'' *?"* the snow continued to fall tiU niehf. K was then fine, and the tfcrmometer about wro. This lut s^w was about a foot deep, and we were obUeed to clear if away along. froL inJ?r\^!"°V »?*?«"•* '*«Ptft of water, at least tiU itls ^^h\T. rTH!' ^**- " " ." .*"y ""1*^ to measure the depth I?«!L fk j« ^'^■"^^ " equivalent; such is the drifting, and,Ttill oZ^JJ^\^Tu **"!J" y^S"^ <'«'^ «•<« it been otherwise, we should" have been as pleased as we were desirou^ SSrlJi^ .Tr* «»**»««;•• to k~^ the actual faU of wateTS fave ffitSini?!?' ^s far as I have read, no such estimatS of OTOw ^"P*^ respecting thesf ■ northerti regions and laodil V JllS/'r °^*'u' ^'■Jnw «»ti'n*te from mere recollections or obmw iS^^iiST''?^'''^ ha? considered this acountry in whichmS water fefl in the conige of t h e yew , we might not »- —- -^^ -N.'j / 6^ A ifW'ti. .» V SM SKOOVD.VOrAOH Off OlfOOTERT Tfa» past r^istry, which is but the osual notuig of UdfliF^Kd^er, girM ,naiiv days of snow or rain. Future observers, if future olMervers ^pHid evrarhave such opportunities, minttry tocbteraaineKriiat the ftat is; but whatever thav inay prove, the jrain that faUs here is of uttle uae^ since it has no duty.to perform for vegetation ; and if the mow proteeta any thing, it is a voiV^ithout f^ants fo derive benefit^ or roeks which are alike indifferent to rain or drought, heat,OE cohL ^ Our teJolui had now once more come into full use, since the clean- ^ *%?L*"* Saturday night produg^d three busheb and a half of |c^ That waia proof that we were ufarm enough between decka ; •nd the coRifort was disputed by no one. J formerly described the imliirB of this contrivance, whto I piggei^ also tne principle on irhich it acted ; eompapngit-to'tfie condenser of the maiial ste«^n engine. But I oi^rhriffiien to haye said what I may do nOw, name' lyE, that by this irery isimple expedient, all necessity for theqierose means formerly adopted for preserving the comfort of tfao men fae> ^Hreeiideeks has been superseded. It is well remembend, that none i^tbe expeiQsive contrivances 'in cork linidgs, or whatever else,pn»- ventetl that cuhdensation of steam Yroih the huQian uid other evap poration within the ship, which caused k perpetiial dripping mlidli J* better for thinking: those who had nothing very cheSMM* *ink enweri»,Alw«vs the wone. They who cdnmis^Tliad however y gnyt right to beUeve themsejvfes of a riiore hopefatj H \ ♦■^• :/• sBcoiro YOTAaB or duoptbrt ever the fact miffht have lieen as to either par^; The^ bad an i^bject in view y^ich the others cojuld scarcdly keep in sight: and^ vAlhbition, or vanity, or vdiatever else, looked .forward to a arati^- -^tion which/ under any sqccess, could be litUe to ^ose who had only to fbltbw as they were directed: participating the labour, yet, if not the fame, so auo, be it reii«arke(|,freeof allAnxietyyandltub- Ject tono responsibility. * \ ' 16/A. Tbere was little to note tbis^ day but a slender j^urora. The Weather and the temperature scarcely differed so much from %ha( they.had generally been for soine time, as jo require notice for any <4her object than that 6(a register. . The present work of the me was to cover the boats with snow, ,fbr the^ purpose of protectinj them from the weather. A strong 'gale interrupted this, but di( not last beyond Jbe. day. Yet it began' a^n on ^the following, though soon mOTMratingt and giving us the remainder of Saturday fof Qur several works, noU' not requiring notice. On idure, the eflfect was to harden the snow so that it could generally bear our weight, and to bare the r6cks in such a manner as to to alter the appearance of the land. Suitiday was passed ak it qugbtto be: as , we had always passed it wl|ienever it was in.our power. ^ flOth. If this day was ]|)ntiK>ut mark, it was one in which we com- Kred the tides thait.we h^ ob^nrved. Nothii^ but A tide^t^e, which^ leeiLnot giVe, would make their singular irregularity sufficiently ' . c^spicuous. I noticed the same faets last year, and they were even nuHre -remarkable in the pf«sent. Every |hin^ wtss out df~^ rule : whatever the fi;ioon might a^t, the cblintiBracting causes, in winds, currents, ice, and nernaps more, set all>caledations at> defi- < .^Bcel . It was & high or a*low tiae whenever it chcMe to be ; and that was nearly all we knew of we matter.' . * (^ 81«/. In this calendar, this was the shortest diy ; tha) yifBa tolera- bly iudiflferentio us, who had ne day at all i but as the sun attained its greatest dongations at midnight, this and the following were, to us, of «qual le;^thsi The temperature was as low as. 27** minus, and rose to 81". on the succeeding, which wks stormy. To cmifi^ what I have just ss^ of the tid^ diat of to-day rose, in the fqi^ noon, but one inch. ' * -r iShL The gale Uewhard tin nij^t, but ceased so as to lehve isia' ' finemominff. 2jU/k. Itw«s even cahn and pleafant; and the gale, by. stUl fnrtherlMril^; the rocks and fiUing the ravines with snow which had afterwards hardened, rendered our walking more .easy than evel', and idmost agreeable. There was DotMng, however, on diore, to amuse us : for us, as for Urn men, the land alorded exercise, and that was alL Itiij likely that they at least thought this a tesk and AhdMMir rather thiu a pteasnre; bi|t it was n ece ssar y, andf more for them tluiii us. The night temperaturewasnHinns 18**. 36lil> A violent rtorm of sdow interfered with the parade <^ IShriirtmas day; but all else was done tocwding^to custom. 86/A4 " day ef j f Oppso» ^ ■V ♦ *^. m ' ♦ -^ • ^*\ A iiC,:. • < 'f t . t B J^. s^ t '4 -(IJ TO THB AlUJtnp EXOIOIfS, m- ■^jr /- ^.:.. -»*. ti*f po^ f and on ^^ohdsij the usual vr<>d[p Were resumed. 28th. The feather improved, and during these Ibree days the average cold on the two subseiqiieM ones. There was little io mark these days but thflicapturei(tf# fox. ^ 30/A.' Tile ice *i the lake was measured, and found to exceed three feet in thickness ;^and, the mercwy froze once more. The frost in the tanks amoroted^ to four, bushels; being what we had found the largest quantity last winter, afterwe had put our ar- rangements in good order, andfixe^oA a reasonable ten;perature »t which to i^gulate the dwelling placd of ^ mpn between decks. The month and the year ended together nylth Very cold breather. It^was the highest tide that we had ycii seen, beinsr nearly eiirht ifeetandahalP ^^ * *~^ . .■« . In summing up a month whi^h presentr neither variety oor in- terest, I may first make a few ijemarks respecting the trahsactiom^ of the year. It is the period wbicli contains the chief'of oui'disco- venes; and although theses d mjdce as great a progress, or a greater one, 4>y the same date, and without needlesi risk* That his aaticipationslweie wrong, the event has shown; whether we might really have ilUcceeded by Woptinffth^ other plaril will never be known. . The ^ip appeared, to have sufiered some d^nage 'by being so long and so often a^und, since she was again lealiy. But our wipter ko9oromodaUons wer» perfect, and the fnen seemed as V J- ? ■* P<>»w*>Ie; having ai>paren(ly profited by otar new system of diet. If the regular exercise contributed to this, that was con- ducive to another good end; aince the mbn would t^Us be well trained foir. toyv^Uinff by (hm time the season should arrive. . Though the weatherhS been ofteii very coW, the temperature was very changeable; nor was the nean sp low as that in the last December, by four degrees. That mean is minus 20.24; the highest temperature was plus 6, and the lowest, being on the last dny nf thn month, was 47^m i niM 99 * , '> > •■'V f f '■(■ 1 ^ • ''^'^^l^..-^./*" ^ ■^ '^. % ■ r I IIS i il S Hi Si s ij J I 1 i i ft % li '1 i Hi ||^J::-:^|i[.^J«||, i^li u # i ^^ tl I i m^iffi I ii»li . sBgl rail |SJ 1^ till f. S '^ll S « • S S IB B t I J-^ ri I I ■ i t I ft > • ■ . . . * I I I I I i I I II.; I SMI an iUiiisi "ii *P*ri TrH i*|-|-i 4g-r'f l-H tfti f 141 Srt tm 1-l-|.| 41-N 1 ^^,flS«*aiS«iS KiliMiJiiiS IS«i!ai3.i;t slaJaiSaia '-'^l ■«► w *■ ?| y y i tf I \ IIS Ifji Jil3 it - •iff I Sill. a J 1^ * I I 1 I ir fl K^' rt Id l'^ la; 1^ W l3 14. MM s & s « I 8 S/8 »| i » « I I I «^ ^* Xgx i ht 4 < r i i t:ix9^6t5«tia SiSg|»aitfSi4 •i «lflii^Sl!si9 \~^- m 1, & ■ T •[ , TO THB ABOTIO RKOIOITS. 801 CHAPTER XXXVI. TraruacttoM on board the Sh^ in January, \SSi—»ummary qf that month. February i with if nummary. Match: its ^tummairyi I— jftrifc 1. Tboooh tlitt .temperature remained at minus 47*>, ^ calm, and the cold was not severe to the feelings. The " colours were hoisted, and the ship dressed, out; new year's day bemff otherwise kept in the usdal manner. There was so clear a sky that .no stars could be seeiji during four hours ; such was the po jrer of the meHdian twilight 2rf. On Sunday, the thermometer fell to mmus a2*, but even then, the men who walked on shore after divine service did not complain. ' T On the third, fourth, and fifth, it ranged between 46* and 5d*, the feather c ■•- V,. ■ ■■ SBOOITD tOTAOB Of OltOOVBRr ) . ■ f k «.o k : ^°'*«^**m^ ^^"'® ""^^ on Sunday, and the temperatuiD • ^"S^*<* ™'°'i» 2;. There was no material ckrige on Mon<£y;b^ on Tuesday, it blew a gale with much drift snow. On Wediiday. the sun yas seen for the first time ; being one day sooner than we had seeteit last vear. It was a welcome sight, even now ; thouirh It was lone yet before we should derive much advantaiM from iUm respect to heat at leasL - <^* «"*i,i« 20th, 21st and SWrf. The two first of the followiag day. wtere Jl&iT?"^' the Saturday was distmguished l^alaJge and beautiful halo rpund the moon, with four jpTraselenie, occumnir at eight in the evening, when^ her laUtude was 32°. The latter occu- — -^P'««*Jonw>ntal position; and there was also a bright arcli ali round the heaven, paraUH to th6 horizon, and of the Mmo altitude as the^ moon. The i^adius of the halo was 86^ ; and wher« these two crossed, the prismaUc colours were dispfeyed, whUe there was occasionally an additional halo of 6°, equally cplour^. The whole appearance lasted an hogr; when the weather beeame ha. tion, for the thermometer when di its lowest point ef 60" b the • oourse of twelve days. A< *^ *. w w « uie Duringthe lower temperature/it was calm, end beautifully otear : but we could make no observations with the instruments on those -t- "yi* «n^ »i >»^a« asimpossibW to touch the metal as if it had been "Jdhot. After the 85th, we lirocuwd some good ones, .k J J '^T 1*"^°^ 8*^*' ?* **w Jo"™*^ has shown ; and, on aU those days, the barometer fe ^ and the temperature joae. But it wee . %^ \ '^h. TO rum ARCTM RCaiOHS. Iv*^- 80$ .fc,'?^""'*'*!®"'""'^^, that when the gale wag from the northward, tne lormer feU le8a,and the thermometer rose more, than when it was from any other quarter ; as this was also niost strikibe when tne wmjl was from the southward. The aurora; were very incon- spicuous ; but the haloes were of a very striking character. » ' 1 he total of our sport in this month produced seven foxes and i lJ?.r • ^^. '*Jf® ^"^ ^^ lastfrozen through where we tried it^ and the ice nearly four feet thicC the increase having been ten ini ches smce December. o -^ » '" ^ Though the sunw&s first seen on the 19 th, some followfng days of Ir»- J'o?!.- f P*^*"!®*^ V' ^"*'" obtaining a second sight of H UU ^ hL? .1 J"^^.. Daybreak was now at eight o'clock ; and thus we fcad iibundant tirae for work and exercise. We had been disap, \ EI.°!!i?L°°* 'T^OiPS^^ expected visit from the natives, but at! <"^^ their absedlB to the badness of the weather. i Feing the highest ten^perature ever observed in these reglonrso earl ilm -n/^S /IkTv!* • P-"" ^y °" the following day! which was M m and mild at,thc^beginnmg,but ended in another equally stronir gate fronf the same quarter. Thus it continyed on the third, tifi near noon ; the therriiometer falling to zero, but rising * little in the evening, to recoverjtbe same degree at midnight tiJ'^' .? ^^j^ oyercast day with snow ; the wind came round to fSl^rl' «™' w cbnfirhiation of my former remarks, the tempera- «ZiS» *" T™ T • ^> °?*" **»'^ employment in buildinran nf^vS l??![JlT"g refractions, and in repairing the othersfono of which had beei^ shaken from the foundation, in consequence of J£. n^?rT "^A ^ **"*."**'' y^' ^«* *»»d broken duriig one of Uj PMtgale.. 6>A. Saturday ended with the theripometer at minus M. On SundaV it went down to 32". Many willow partridcea '^'JSL'**",?^ *'^J"®" •*""«« thiirwalk after divine service. * «fc--?»£5^*L*''[..*'^"*"*^ through the two following days, in which Ihew^bothmg remarkable but a slight aurora. Nof was were much charige on th» next ; the only notable occurrence was f k! 25f*. ^'^u*". r*'^l«>«i*e fo«» which had lost its tongue through «KS^TT** f I "**""•' ""^ '* ^'^ very tjold. Another fox J^j- r *■ ^T'^f^f • ^^^^^ *"»«• to make observations on 1 ?«fni^anaifoo, fe^'^the needle would not traverse. *'"'**'* „ J ii ^®!? °^]"? f stiff breeze, with a thermometer at 39'' mi- S?2Sl!"° ^"^li* »*nP«»We to walk on shore i and it was the th^mton Sitoiy» Wk. The tanks having produced five W& ***^J1S ^ "•?*♦ confirmed the remarks £ready mSt pSy W^ !J "T*' ^ *^ ^^«' ^" unchanged.^ laX evenmg of Mondiy, the temperature was down at 45°raiKJ another vof WM i t tmji U wna » wcon d op Um fQllowitog4lay. lu o/^. — und to keep in as good condition as we. could afford, for services rhich were now not far dijfrtant March U The^weather sontjnaed the same. There was a1>right '*■ f>»X TBUB AROTIQ MOIOVS. auroM, which ngitated the magnetic needle in the manner that has beSn often observed, guch hghi as I could collect from it by means f a l^ge readmg Idns, had no effect on the differential thfjrmome- o 2^ ^^"^ following davs scarcely presented any change; but on Sftfiirday It was squally for a Ume, and the tliennt)meter feU to 40",-bavmg begun this month #ith its lowest at^88». A fox was taken, and a hare killed. I .i.*j^* Sunday ^was sontewhat farmer; the temperature risiog in the day to 28", for two h^urs. ft was 40* on Monday night, awl a hare was killed on thats(|ay. The two following days were Uttle noticeable w»|M^tng but a general continuance of the same ^wal brS^^SS*^* **^^* *""*' **" ^^ Ia«t I >•- /'. "i n )- 'it ..,, -, Vi. .n--^. ♦ - N r 806 SEOORD VOTAOK Of DISCOVERT If r if ternately, with occasional shoMiers of snow, and, latterly, a fresh breeae. The lowest temperature of the three days lay from 35° to 28°, g^dually rising. Oil the thirtieth, a decided and a very pleasing change 'took -filS^v Tfe§zJheimrded ; the ' place for which is%e appendix, not this jo'uifnaL In addition to many foxes, twelve white harosfiad tien shot, with some ptarmi- gans ; but of our tamed animals, only two remained aiive. Our disappointment in not seeing the Esquimaux continued daily increasing, as their expected vxrvm was the longer delayed. They furnished us with occimation and amusemeirt, more required by tlie men than ourselves. We were also in mxA of seal's flesh for our dogs, which would have been starved had it not been for our suc- cess in taklhg foxes ; for ourselves, too, fresh vmiison and fish wquld havebden more than acceptable ; nor were we so well stocked with skm dresMis as not to wish for more. We stiU looked forward to their visits with hope. .^ J* tf '; 4$'^= TO TBI ARCTIC RXGIOITS. 8d7 ,:,_/ ..,„^ ?;V V CHAPTER X sfvu. *' • , 4p^il~-^n Sa^iediiion undertaken— ^account of tAis journey— \ , -^Summary qf the month. \ .^wi?. i; Tot weather improved^very slowly; but, on the second, the niffht temperatnre was zero, and the highest in the day, plus 3°. 1 he dipping needle was found to be out of order. On Sunday there was a bieeze, which became a gale on the following day. The va- riations in the themperature were unimportant. &th. This was the day on which our travelling had commenced last year. The condition of things was now very different, besides which, we could not wiell manage without the aid of the natives and the assistanpe of their dogs. The thermometer fell to minus 17" on the night of the sixth, thus giving us a temperature 84" lower than on the corresponding day m the last year. \ 7th. A succession of heavy squalls with drift snow blew to-day, but ceased before the following, which was fine yet cold, with the night thermometer at 20". Nor was it at all warmer on the Satur- day. Whei^ the sun acted-on the snow it was glazed, but there waa no flow of water, and no apparent clearing. It was colder by 2° on Sunday, which passed as usual. OnMonday it approached zero, at noon, bein^ a great improve- ^ 5u5**f ^® ^®'* employed in preparations for a projected journey. This favourable change did not, however, last, since it fell to 28" on the following day. Last year, at the same time there were many pools near the ship and along the shore; at present, all was solid ice. On the two next, the temperature gradufldly improved, and reached near to zero at noon. It came to plus 4* on Friday ; and . settled, on Saturdav* with a" as iu maximum. Preparations for travellinecontinuea. t ■/-:■■ 17th. The first' snow bunting of the season was seen this morn- ing. IBth. On Mondav the preparations for our journey were '♦' Complete, and we waited only tor weather. A change seemed pro- _„ 7 mised the next day, as the thermometer rose to plus 8", and the " / it weather felt warm in spite of a breeze. A walking party was sent away two miles with the sledse, that they nrfght be ready to start very early in tjie morning, if the vn,M\Wfl pfirmittftd. . 4 V > ■ -i / 1 ■ \l / I. : :■:.<..■. ■>.-.J^ I'W- X,. ■•^^ 808 SECOnO VOtAOif OII^DIMOVBRT 20M. This being the case, the party set off early, and by oooii the convoying portion returned, leaving CommandeV Ross iid five men to pursue their journey. Another sledge and cooking appa- ratus were m preparation on board. On the twenty-first the tern- perature increased so much as to reach 31» plus, and we were agreeably surprised by a visit from three of the natives, Neytaknaij, roweytak, and Noyenak. » / »»" ij» ^^hey came over the western hills with their dogs, and stopriiki about a quarter of a tnile off, holding up their hants to show tliSr were unarmed, and calUng out the usuil all hail, " Manig tomiir^ SnI J*jr^P''°f ^®*^^.'* ^° J°^" ^'^P™- J* '"^""^ tf'e party whichf ad wintered At Awatutyak, consisting of three families; and they wire Jf-/ fc"" "tauon near the entrance of the inlet leading to t^at ?inpt^^ ^^•***— "^^ K Commander Hoss, from whoiii I «!iTJ 1- fV°.*°'™"'J5.'"® *''»* ^^ ^""^ purchased two storel of . salmon for two knives. This was welcome news, and we amu^ied to fetch tM acceptable supply the next morning. i^ i\»l^.u V"^- tbe^todipner and to sleep, and received fiom SJkmi® following^ information. All their friends were weU at St -u^' ^^P] T«gashu, who had died in the winter. This iSrty hadkilled many deer and taken much fish, and had been expeVtinc S ^t"/K^7!:"*r'*^ and NeitchUlee. One of the men wm sSo? togo to^Uus last place, and would convey the news of our present b^ one^^.h'!?^^ ^.'^/^^^ieil!^"^"^ Tiagash^^ been one of the first to inform us cd^^ geography. He was also a pecuharly good character; and,l^ng% fa«^ Lilyrh^A ill an5Stf.5f''i5^5',^'?°V**'^ Aime cause, he hadlitUetb sell, and therefore obtamed httle from us in barter; but, at theedSl he was presented with a file and a knife, thua equiizing h m ^' ^otfiers ; a bounty well applied, as this famih? had afway™ b^ especialhr kind to us. and had formerly shown their gratitude for iw7JJ£k fK!*?!l°r. ^^ ^'i^ ^"^ P'^"* of *^al, out of two winch they had taken. Whatever he might be as an Esqui- maux, he at leaitt died an amiable and an exemplary man-HVe tSii rij'"" ^ ^"^ ""^ »•» ^^^ 5 "d had to rJgStthat we mr ^^Zl' ^' ■'°'' " "'«*^' *"'* ^"^ withinS^pSJerTf 2Sind. With the track of the former sledge to direct us, I left the ■hip at four m the morning, with thasuJ^n, thr^T sSJme„. imd our Esquimaux miests. \^e reached their rtation, callSkhflS^ K«Vhtf?°: H* 'fePl*'^^ '^»'««' ^« had pitohed ou^tent oa the f 8th of last Jun6. We found there were two packages of fii 'V-»*, .a warm meal, whi^ waii'VTr^ aece^uiiraftera wSL'Sf'lStoS =A 'y\\ ^- =e= ■ • , # W , - T~ ■i^- " ., ,v^!' , , - . ■»■ V ' ' . ■' y^ 1r -^ ' \ \ m TO TBI AKCTIO 'UOtOllS. id byaoob ss ^nd fivd kins appa- st the tem- 1 we were ^eytaknag, id stoppi^ show tn^ gr tomigli" which had they were log to that ti whocb I, 9 stores of iarranlged sived from e well at rhis party expecting was soon jr present who 'Iiaci '■ was alap had beetii, itain th^ id little tb ittheedSI, g, him with ^ays been titude for il, out of n Esqui- m. We t that we power of I left the wn, and iokhflna* r tent on i of fish, lie. 8tipu« < •» which— — cooking sizteea *s ?^ i5 "5*li7*"^ ^"^ "^r. ^*^M '*»«*>» »« ^^* however, good beyond tffe place where Comn/ander Ross had left his con- joy; which it was gratifying to know. The men baving Ibrsotten fr-^^da ' ^^^ ^^^ Bupplied ^ith skins by our gM^atuTMl At noon, two of thc^m set off at a gr^ pace, with their yddfte and SIX dogs, to fetch a third depot of fish, which we understoodto be at a laid *» away. They #ere to hare another knife for it: and \t was weU worth our while to waiv for such a supply. We examined tl^r hut in ihe mean time, which was large enough for three faiiiihes, being eighteen feet in diameter; but it was so much decayed as to show thit it had been occupied from a very early period in the winter. We we» very kindfy received by the wi . men, and found%n old one, sicl, or thought to be so, to whom the sureeott administered some medicine. It was the woman of many f»"!r?- •i"**"''?.'?P*y®**.*'^' Pl^y^c by the^ne which iausei . ui rtnkmgJSre, which was, m reality, a valuable present to make.> on her part They offered us water, which is a scarce article at tins aeason, as it requirai mu^h oU to melt any quantitylbf snow : togeUier w^ salmon, which w vofJkuB or ouoovirt, • t^.> 'Wt ' ' ' coiwumed by ourselves and the Esquimaux, ^e had now but two hundred and fifty wounds. This, however, together wi^h our o\rn stores, was more than our men, not very strong, were able to trans- jwrt; so that I bar^ned with one of the two natives to aid us witb three dogs, for which service, and a spear which be had made, bd was to receive a file. \ We set oot accordingIy,>after presenting the women witb a needleeach. It was a fine day, though the breeze was strong; for* ^ ywaWilowever, being with us, it was not inconvenient^lfterft fpur miles, we arrived at a hi^ cape palled Neokouak, and then crossed the inlet by a nearer and better wajr than we had taken i# coming, thus also saving a mUe. Halting about half way on our journey, for sotae rest and refreshment, we were obliged to dispense wiUi water,4or want of time to |haw the snow. We were slad to , find that the wholg.botlom of .this extensive inlet, which contain!, the salmon fisheries, warf^overed with good ice, so that, from thi»^ place at least, the journey would be easy as far as the first irreat' ' nver. ^By three o'clock we bad arrived at the ship, with our cariro . safe.. It was a valuable one, because it contained fourteen daw' provisions: which, being fresh, aUowed us also to ecbnomize the iemon-juice, which was the ^scarcest article in our stores. I \ Sui^'"*^ the, King's birthday, the flags were aU displayed; an exhibiuon which seemed much t9 deKght our native friends ; while the men had ektra aHowance, and so forth, according^to custom. One of the natives, being invited into the cabin, informed us of some of the afiTairs of his coterie. The widow of the dead man had * immediately obtained a new husband; because' she had five cHU- dren. The because would not be a very good reason in England, it IS certain ; the ready made fs^mily of another is not often a wurce of much comfort ; and that it i& not a valuable property needs not be said. But here, the five children were a commodity of price, a great fortune, a source of profit instead of 1 Jss, and of hapraness instead of vexaUon and torment Even at eight they begin^be serviceable: in a few years they are able to maintaih iidore than themselves ; and when the parenU are old, be they stepchildren, or entirely and absolutely adopted, as is also here the usage, it is on them that the helpless aged depend for that support wSich it is a matter ef course. There are no poor-rates in this country. Whenever this shall happen, during the progress of knowledge and legislation, the chUdren will cease to maintain even tbemselvfs. there will be an end to adoption, the widow of five children wiU advertise m Vain for a husband, they will all go to the work-house. ' and they who ci^ cateh seals will bbour to maintain the idle, tUI the day sh^ll arrive when aU wUl starve together. It is a Utopian stete of things when she- of five chUdren is the best ^Twivos, and can take her choice of the young men: it is more than Utopian.' when populauon is not poverty, but wealth: when men really will •, ^ r ^ r :* SH,. r^f TO TRS ABOTIO RBOIOITS. 'V 3f| ^^rr ..SLi, ,. or^^IrK? 4^''!? ^^ »abo«[of a m«tf will do, what it always, can hL .S k'^PP*"^ "°.* """fr '"'""^''^ •»"» *»»08e who must dei4ad on him tiTl they can, and wUf, labour for themselves. Let iheViw of ST,i 5?" ^^""^ ¥^^[^tfd take lessons of wisdoniftpm the savages *°S .'«''W''o°n°k oil, and eat their fish raw. ^^ ^^ Uf another portion of their political economy I muslnot speak w,Uiappr(Aat,onr yet there is some philosophical fitnS in it too, ■TiSfnfT^T* **•*' "^^^^ *>" preceded. We must not puTa system of legislation to pieces, and then say that this or die other KTkSlhJT-, tf * - IH'** *^ '^"*®'"P'**«** in a mass, and Sht . A- • ''^ bef nop. before we presume to decide what is r«ht. that IS pnerally right which is most .fitting, k is the cus. Wv^h^^'^T*? "^Tf ".^^ '^'"•°» *S the same,und« ZSL f®" civilization, I fear that their reasons are indefensible, ^^^I^iS^ ??~ inquire what tife were. In this countiy «mJ^i/c^®°'*'*®u' ""y** physSlogically philosophical, fOT wl^^^J ^^'^^ **» contrary, thoughlt regained to^disc^ver ' S .£!!k ^^E'^yil'^"'^ »° practicerr The people thus consider- edthat they sUld have more children: it i, TgJod thing to have V f good reaaons for doinsr what may not be very rW ^ and brought back Sunday. It was clear and very cold ; the ther- mometer bemg/t plus 3« in the day, but falling^to minus iS^It nigftt It was 4 more alkeptable day of rest than usual : but hav- Ki^'^SrS . "^^'^ ^'*^? ^ ^"^^^ wo were less comfortable be- low. Our Esquimaux guide returned ; promising to send back his " ^VAJ'^S *'*"*' »"** wrae blubber w4h we harflosL H-Si He came with the seal accordingly, and had found the minus 10« at mght. It is proUle that we,Wg« already beginning te find, m our persons, a new scale of agreesitemperature, thouirH 'AS'SSSil'^'^ r 7? ^"^* cei3»?hy'Scians iffi ^xplain tm tnatters. Is it that tbfe body generates more Sit in 1 If*'*®''' »°e. • *^ # 2«/A. AfUira iiight tempen^ture of minus 16", the day reaclied ta plM 10; andtlie8ttn,evenattl^i8veryUrwpointof thepositiveicaW, had*a powerful eflect on the snow, which wm meltinrduringW hours. At ni^t the thermometer ^ras at zero* ^There w\ /^ wrong gale with snow drift on th^following day, and at midnight / VW -fl^^:mmm~' * tt -f—r^ '# . *> * ,< yg0y: . : fj ;^^-v-.v TO THC AltOTIO RBGIONa. 3ia CHAPTER XXXVni. -:g-v Mt ty-^Commander , Basses Jourk^,j Jmy 1*/. THi temperature nu&ced to>-dav betitr^^ 20 «n.t i«>o *Kj!frT&*"2*'"*f *¥■ ^turned, ha^Sig, left bis party we other fofiir men to draWhim, althongh thej -^ere themselves we Uierefore sent td.meet them ; and be disabled for the remainder of the ih m want of a weej I's rest. much fat while the summer, Ck>mhii feeted b till the SI 8age,exi All hands late was likejv 1 ) others seen'lhi ider Ross rapoi snow blindness, he , Aat from his part f having heen af* wd not reach the na. at Awatutyak day, Monday, Mrhen he proceeded to look for the djw? r" TT-j"? nunutely every creek, ahd travers air the whnlAlinA "* 1^^^ J^-^hedS^nnined Without hSK^^^^^ S^ZEJ^tT***^*'^'^'^'*"- It «^«t plain therefoi? " iJt^SiJ«i*^"***r*/'?^'^*°^«*'* t,(l5eitchUlee.w5 L^JTa^S^J^uu^ ^^T «^f «'*»»« Pl^ pe, between PMt i^m and Ehsabeth harbour : whence it wasmli^ k huu their couS ,' be DO passage nearer than the latitude of 7 Ai° XretLi^ S ^rLfT\ ^^J^'* unfortunaiel^ ^A fo VJ«w^^^^ ettmuH^byland fW>m dur present poitioL;/ an 4 the^ Ld w!^ iHt iS^S.*" '^^I^'r «>«»<^aie"SrpJ?gr^ ' iP- i^^^Jfe y^»^ do. wis to exaLf S • tf!P9^^!^^ « <*» peninsula; indit was deter- »w^i;^^tW *°"" our next expedition. ,. ™ f»«t|f #>« of Commander RSsTwas, IMHniMs, and thai it wi^ry^Oncelhe the stofms. IHe furthei' remi^rked thift the pres8ui»^< But his narraUve nptist b e^vCTi in OTsn wokji^^ at he had found >y Jiad journeyed nQmeter was as- 'o severe snow the sea ice had ed up th() rocks >ut one raven. ; •./■ m ■^ -^ji« ■ T ' ii '¥' ^iniT ■^'sc^. j' ^"f^^ 4 "■V I m I **.- saooKO vorAOB or ihscovkbt CHAPTER 3pCXIX. JVarrative qf Commander Sqw. Jfpril 30. It was a matter to be regretted thut we could now no Ibnser -obtain the aid of the Esquimaux, who had formerly been of suoi essential service to U9,by means of their sledges and dogs, and by the great ease and expedition with whicb the^ raised our tem- porary encampments. We had nevertheless gamed some experi' ence; and the middle of April made us anxious to visit Aw-wuk- too-teak oQce more, as my former sight of it was very imperfect, and an accurate knowledge of this qppt was essential to our future operatiops. ' * , . I ,^ - W to which they were bound. I prevailed "to let me accompany them whenever they ce; which womd not be till we had finiidi- d bad returned to .the ship ; but I could Ittend me to Aw-wuk-foo-tealc, thonghthey icinity. caught many salmon in the Sreced|i% autumn, which they had depo- weriB willing |o sell to us, on my |;iyi|ig oss,ywhich was to jerve asa bill in pay- !<;.—. ik at four in the tnonung that we could departed at six, as they were averse to go to the. Victory till W3 had departed. Our first attempts wertf^ much impeded by this danse fog, but at nine it became clear, luia we continued our journey up the inlet of An-ne-r&«k-to, and thenee along the valley of the S tanley, encamping at last on the north bank ' of the the lake at its held. 22d. Our departure on this morning was again dekured, by f<^ and snow, till nihe, when we crossed ihe hish ridge wfi^ separates the two lakes at this pliice, ycifwith. much toil, from tbe dc the new snow. At tbreje in the afternoon, the sun ib^fie ^ with such .effect on the ^hite ground, that>Jome of the ml_ ..^_ Very shortly seized with inflammation in the eyes, so diat we were compelled to halt at six and encamp for the night. Our position ^was on the n(>rth-west bank of the lake ; imd though all tne usual means of checking this inflammation were adopted, diree of the party was so blinded by its eflfects, that we were obliged to rest during the Whole of the day. The latitude here was 70° 39' 10", and the longitude 0** 88* ^est of the diip. SStf. The stw on thisj morning was so bright, that though our c&mpknions were cured, I did not think it prwlent to go on during tite day. We therefore! deferred our departure ^^j^MPkin the eiliung, intending to tn^Vel by n^ht, to avoid the ral|P|MPlce of the same inconvenienwuk-too-teaL We had finished this goumey by six in the 9ming, and encamped on the north diore of me lake, about a quarter <^ a mile firom the exit of the river which flows from it to '.^esea. • ^ ; . '. ■•* #1 here ascendecl the bill of Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk, and the meming oein^ clear, obtigned a very wide view, incliiding the entrance of the udui wMch. had w. long been the oajeet of ou r pu nail t if . ■*• ^ : #^" ;^v M. i i ■% *■"? '?,., to 'Be about five miles distant, but did not seem very . Some observations vrhich I procured, gave the latitude at 70° 88' ai ", and the lonffitude at b,W West of thf ship. Above our encampniient rose the hill Il-lbw.na-lig,"and here was a snow hut m Tuins that had formed the solitary winter residence of NoW- 76n-noo-ah aM^il^Mii - ?5/A. Ai0tr^fm^m0mipto. A strong br^zej with much dnfl, compelled us, however, to halt at length, at four o'clock, on the southern bank of thib isthmus, when there came o^ the most violent gale, attended bv drifUi^ snoW, therefpf ii^deii8&> jwen^seve. Fort Elizabe ■';.x m «^-v /to TBI ARono wtoioira. SjhtJ* *"*** *""" ?^*°**^' I^wting'tUl (be noon of the twa^ It then moderat^a, and the weather became fine in the afteraoon: »teS"S ""i ^'Tr**!** T™"^ confinement in our snow burrow which we alwj^y. felt to be more painful than even a hard da/s wort we contrived to proceed on bur journey at eiirht, but tha V hI!™?Si.^ """"l^^ ' ^*'"*' *X •"•'*''»''»• ^^ win«f which had \ ^^lA^V r* ^'^ "** ." *° ^''^^ ^'•^'^^ in our faces. We SS?„.T^"T*^ ^y?™* """^ calculation, in consequence of the - i??i ""^f had undergone, that we were oblig^ to proceed! MdUiusconUiipl our journey tiU six in the morninVbf the'SJ^^: iu^hU'fS!^''^^^^^^ now found to have been frost-bitten SL5S- ^°?t H» » ▼WT «'rere manner ; but by applying the usual ^ STihfS */~" "»fla«mation. Tffiis caused our detention^ the thirtieth at noon, when we contrived to place the man on a ^, stedge and proceed tpwanb the riiip. At fifst^ the traveC^I I ipasy ; but. on rounding a point of "land ejtposed to the nora.^he ^ cewas found very rugged and apparantlyiija^able, bei^ iS^ up in a confusion of plied blocks, often^reac^Sng to the^ig?t of 2, Sfh- ^f*^ ^f^^f^ ^"* ^J^^ "**«*»• however, we couFd ■ee the level ice at the distance of a few miles, which icouwired us lo attempt the crowing of this obstructionTlt proved t^teS^ «r SIX miles m breadth ; vet, bv dint of exertions fnd ftJigueVsuch J^J^^ T^V'- r^* wd experienced, we succeedKiS^ ^ It, tho^ not without much suffering to our disabled comwS^ Ion ^r r ^««1""'«»« wWch the ste^ underwent tSTS^ fion alone of our journey occupied us tv^lve hours, "^ »"' ^^Kuf ^^^ of the party had been thus completely exhtfust- Sit*Jf*M "^^ ^*f oompelted to hak at twoia tJmoriing oHh. firstjf Mayi about three mUes to the soutfafKjUf Andrei R«2 wland. iut a. our nrovisions were now iiSftlSei3S,^rd « h was necessary that iKe disabled man »hoi3ffiKical wSstw^ as soon as possible, while in addition, the seST^KjJS iw wme houw, I set out alone for the ship, that I mS^S^ "^^[to the party as soon as possible. «« "ua some The distance was only twenty mOes, but the road beinir bad I ?w not arnve on board tUl eleven in the morning. AH X wew able for the journey ^ere then despatched to thei shinmaSi «iS joon^fter midnight the whble we^safe on iSS. tTylS^'JS^ had been the frost-bitten man, had wflered 3 from^Sl' JT veyance; but the care of our surgeon soot reUevUwm'SL^K mojt painful effects yf hi. iiijuiy. ^ ^r^t^^^^'J^, ■ '>,m ■\ aits sEdoifD voYAan orDiaoovmir \^ Lt.i'" « CHAPTER XL. Journal of Majff^ Journej/ in company witk the Natives. Majf2A Tyro of the natives had arrived yesterday with the promised supphr of a seal, which weighed 178 pounds, bringihg F ?''»o nye^ large fishes called by them erkalook-aitJoo ; when, infom^ ing us that thev had another store of fish for sale, they were sent ta fetch It. The^eather was cold to-day, with the thermometer about zero. 3d. On Tnesday the natives returned with a seal, but only with, a small supply of fish, as they had not been aWe to find their hoard : there were but sixty.fi ve pounds. • 4th. The temperature rose to plus 20», and the mean was 4'^. 1 he two men left us, with a promise to bring ua more salmon, and \ 1^* •• '?M?"*^ **Y*- They were to fish here in the autumn, and at JNeitchillee in the winter. Our mw cooking apparatus proved effe<^tive: its advantage being, that it wx>uld require no fuel but taUow or oil. 5M, and 6th. The ice near us, being cut through, was five feet and a half thick; the temperature at night, zero. 7th. u^ ?*2 Wl V^^^y ^as sent to bring back some stores that had been left behind to make room for the lame matp; and thus ended toe week. 8/A.^^er church we received a visit from some native families. One of the men^undertook to guide us to Neitchillee, by the lakes, m ei^ht^days ; his reward to be a pole.' 9th. Another, who had remained on board, went home on the following, promising to returri in four days. lOM. Neither on these>two days nor the suc- ceeding, was there much change : though the mean temperature was gradually increasing. I „ 1 IM. There was a strong gale, with drift snow, this day, which settled into a stiflT breeze on tho following. 12th. Tlie native le- . turned, but had nothing to ^11 except some dothing. 18M: The ^ preparauons for traveTUng were in progress; and, among other things, provisioM for twelve men during three weeks were made ready. MM. The weather promised better, as the thermometer now rose to tlie freezing point at noon, beuig 12® at night 15th. Many tricka oT reihdfwr Wfire leen by thft men in their - Sj^' If ,. |0 THB ARCTIC RCOIOir«> aio Sunday walk: these aniinals were apparently returning for the sumraen Monday morning was employed in preparing every thinij for our journey ; and, at eight in the evening, the first sledge, with the pontoon and three weeks' provisions, and the second with the ««me quantity of provisions alone, each calculated for six men, set t>ut to e^iplore thei second chain of lakes and the west coast of the / peninsula, as far to the northward as it was possible to reach. These parties were to be guided through the lakes by two of the natives. CalculaUng that we should reach the west coast in sdven days, our . design was, that the second division under Commander Hoss should continue their investigations, while the first returned for a supply -of provisions, then contriving to come back to the former by the shortest, rout It was our further purpose to obtain from the na- tives soBfie more geogra()hical informaUon* and also, suppties of provisions and clothing. / 16(J. We made nine miles before mid-day ; the weather being fine, but cold.^ On the next, we arrived at the native huts at iNeptaknag; preceding the sledges about an hour, and pitching our tent. Pur promised guides were to be ready in the eveningf and • ^ss de- parted for the mountain just named, to take'aiuries, while the march was renewed. An we advanced, the inlet became narrower, and manv more islet?, appear^, indicating shftUow water. We soon • reached a small nfrer, on each side ofwhich was a rocky hfU, five or sir htodred feet high, as there was also a dbannel to the east of the island, leading along the main, by which the distance to the ship could be materially shortened in netuming. The snow and ice rendered the travelhng difficult, and we proceed very slowly. At nine we passed th^ mouth of another small river, called Sdkin- nohunuting, and arrived at length ak^t of thefiver &marea* * llus w on the nineteenth,. and^here we joined! Commander Koss. We were, surprised at finding this river opin, but were more so to learn that it Ijfd been in .this state all the winter. While It was now running in a iiotasiderable stream. On further inqyirt-, ,-We found tl^t there were 1nany 8prin|s id th^lake above,liHich yrn» a mile off We now hauled the sTedgesiQver a ridge, and ob-' taiijed a view of it, lying, as it seemed, in ja south-west direction,. *kL°"®/TV**?^ P^^^*' confined by pr^ices eighty feet high, through which It forwwl its wiiy in a space so narrpw that we mi|ht almost fi^icy we could jump a4R>ss it The teihperature a Ma ' "^""^'AlSi ?t ' ■"** ?* ^"PP"^ ™ •" '^^ drink, «|iich wan Sk ver^ diffifeult'io procure any where else. '^ ^ TJie,ic^ the lak^ Jtza nOt so deeply covered with snow|as that ontiie^arbut it bore ho marks of' drssolution. We proci-"^ along fte west side of Jt, inhere a high precipice of Uie hiodi Jescended,ahd,pitched our tent at tiie dutapce of three niiles i •. MT* u' ^ ^ *"*■ ^^^ e^'^ ^^ hM br«»ded us. in spite lof all ourcaution and care, one of the men suffers! from a if®^V°^ and was of little use during Uie remainder of tlie journey; he ha^ concealed the injury so long Uiat we coufcf do little good : the similar accident of ailoUier«fian was easily remedied, as he had ,j titnely notice of the injury. . - - -- » , he natives were here employed in n»king|»iy^ heajpr sto1«, of provisions and 6ther matters ; amfby this we were mudlj lightened. They. al|o made some sledges of the fresh-watei* ice; the shape teiiiff that of a shalk>w|'elliptical basin. Ttvo of these, fastened torather, confained a considerlble quantity of their '4 goods, and- cpuldcarry one of the wqme^ on the top of all : while, though very heavy, thev travelled with considerable repidity. Jt was Mt till mne, however, that' they were ready to march, when we (Continued tk«g the west s|te of the lake, the old woman ■ ttfli leading the way : finding the sid^ higb and rocky, itsbreadUiV -varying from oMIo two mUes, and ii« dii^on more westerly. aJB 00 the iouth side, «nd having, on||||^r. a ^jv |^)int /overed. ■,*«:y.. .y '..'-: ■I"' %■• TO THB AROTIO REGIOirS. 3 ~» 38? a2«> *; "^ ^^'"P'^'^ture of the water Mma'hoWever but iurit ahnv«^ ,. swalt piece, altacheTto ^a^,^ AT^^r'^"'^ "'•* f""- scribed. \ ":°" a^^red by the tarbed machine ibrmerJy, de- arrived at anX^sK ti^h ^^ ' f '' '**':?'?' ''''^"•*«' «" ^e' mometcf at night fell Jbel(^wlero ^ '^' ""tiliaJhSr-. •-** ■r •(V '^iH I %< V "¥* el ,^*#k .«' * 1 / ! 4J ' ' -<<*-^B ....J- 3^ • J H '1 1 ^ ■~r .*.'.V T^ ., 4 .' ■ ■■ 7. •" ..*!«» •«».,^Jt.'' ■N 322 SEOblTD VOVAOB OF DISCOVESAT f i- ■ |b 1 t . ,.« , :(-;■' ' ■^■^ •*; ■■ W'-: ,> : 1* ' *■; KI:. ^'^ ■■"* ■■*■ i ■~^ themldmeter was not below 20". Thi? ^reat lake wn? named a|^, the justly celebrated, Admiral Von kmsenstern. * 22nrf. The gale did not allow uf to move; uor would the E^.. quimaux have consented.. The thermometer sank to 3°. The next • morning the wind abated, but still thesfe people would not go till their companions had joined them, which they could not have done during the bad weather of the preceding day. Nothing was to be seen but a vast expanse of snow, covering a flat country, so low near the water, that we could not discover where the boundary was. We learned from one of the men, that there was a third chain of lakes to the westward, emptying themselves into the etfstern sea by the great river. .: ' At 'four, the two men who had remained behind game up^ ani built a hut; informing us that there was another lake to 'the eas^ ward, having^the same name as the one. which we were next to • reach, viz. Tishagriahiu, which I named after my friend Captain Jekyll, R. N. While they were preparing to set */iit, we had time to examine a new sledge Virhich they had brought up, and which we found no less beautiful than extraordinary. It was of the shape of an ordinary one, but made entirely, of ice, runners and all, and, while very neatly made, having a most delicate appearance. Being transparent, it seemed indeed to be a sledge of crystal, while it w^ strong enough to bear the weight of all the stores which the owner had heaped on it. Being all ready, we departed at eleven o'clock. 24th. We now passed over several necks of land, ffrid across some small lakes, guided by marks which were so obscured by the t* SQOw, that our guides were often obliged to stop and consult tbge- .th^r. At tweiire we crossed a river, and entered a small lake ; and, at four, passed a ridge of land ; arriving after this, at a valley filled with snow, and coiilaining a lake, out of which issued a river, along the course of which we went lill we had reached the expajjse of water which it served to drain. We found it to be about two miles long, and that if wasjoinfed, at no great distance, to anotheAr, by ^ means of a river which united some more in this series, so as t* con- stitute a general declivity and draining. These two were ^amed ' after Professor Hanstein. At length vje finished this day'si journey, after liaving travelled fifteen miles, pitching our tents at last, abput ten o'clock. The land over which we hwi thus travelled was, once more, of granite : the river which we had passed Jn this journey, w'as three hundred yards wide. The latitude of 6ur position wa* flO" 46' !&)' , arttr the longitude 95*. ' It was soon necessary, however, to move again ; two of )he na- ^ tives whom we had left behind now ipining us.' Here, as at eveqr place ^here we had stopped, they deposited a ttore, to await them on' their return ; b6t it #as with much difficulty that one of them could be persuaded to proceed, which I believe ho would not have done, had he toot feared to lose the proinpsd reward. We s»w <*■<>■ '^r' «t s.>- mmm *^ TO THE ARCTIC aBGIOliy. S88 some wolves, together with a raven and an owl: a wolf' had been * fired at, before this, without success. The temperature at mid- night was 14° plus. ^ .' 25th. We began our journey at this time, with a cloudy sky and a fresh westerly breeze. Crossing * ^mall lake, we arrived at« ridge separating those which w^had passed after leaving the great lake Knasenstern, entering firsHoif a very nprrow, lake, and then mto the channel of a river that led juitp »Jarger oni? two" miles o£ Halting here for akhour, we proceeded, at five, and dressing ano- Uier ridge for foar|riile6, arrived. at the great lakd just mentioned. This lay east and west, and seemed ten miles long; but the snow- did nbt allow its breadth to be ascertained. The land was part of Boothia Felix, and there were several low fslands at the east end. _ It was said to abound in fish ; the saltjjgn entering it from the wes-r— tern sea, through a great river. Hence, after walking twelve houra^ and having trfivelled over a distance of eighteen nU&Br4K§ pitched ; our tents at its northern side. It snowed heavily all thisday,«i»i ' • the thermometer was at 30° at noons 26M. We started at one in the morning, and keeping a westerly direction, reached the ehd of the lake in two hours ; wnen^ passing a ridge of land again, we came to a riverfll|lled after the Crown Princess of Sweden, ¥nd having crossed it?lrrived at the channel . of the great river. After a needful halt, we came to jts niouth^ which was at the bottom of an^inleOhree miles long. It was that which had been formerly surveyed by Commander Ross. The , . land was here rugged and Drecipitous, andfas wm here rai«,,it wa» '" somewhat romantic: the pHp^wl^re we fifst stopped was caU^fl '^■■ Padliakjand the entfance of tlie inlet had beea ascertained to Ije' thirtyrfive miles from it, west %r north. .At this place we saw a herd of twelve reindeer. ^" ^ ' ; 27t&. Here we also found three famiHes of our acquaintance in two huts; but were vexed to leamthat Kablala had'departed spme time ago, thatjkmallik's party |r|s beyond NeitchiUe^, and thai we had no chance of seeing either. yWe f^ere glad to find, however; ' ' that they had been veijy successful in killing deer last winter; and we bought a deer^skfn and a pair of trousers, wiUi a skm of oil for ' fuel, as our own was nearly exfjpided. At ten at night we again - atai^ed ; the plan being, that Commander Ross rituadid explore the coast to the westward, and myself jlhat to the eastw|M, returning by Padliak. As the former had fifteen days' provifrafis, I settled that they would be able to travel outwards 4uriag at^ast six of those. But as I theti took leave of them, so must I no^ defer any acepunt (^ their proceeJfngs till the time. arrives for giving theliidwn report of their journey and its results. Aftei; parting, we proceeded ou- tward ourselves first passiujg an inlet formerly exafni^id, after that \ a valley i*^^ a river, and then, lastlj^, Cape Isabella, wbere we ar- rived St midnijjhf , throu^ very thick and foggy weather. . 88/A We pitbbed about >tke middle of Facfliak bay ; but die sun ' i If •^ ■1j i*f«*K»f;. •jiii VHngliB -*«^ 824 SECOND VOYAGE or DISCOVERY' being obscured, could not well make Out our^ourse. Neverthe- less we started at «ight, though the men complained much of theit eyes ; guessing our route as well as we could, amid the darkness and confusion which was produced by the density of the fog» ^V midnight we arrived i'fet an opening resembling that which le^tia from Padliak to the great lake ; where, fiiidthg no natives, I deter- mined to proceed, as sooa as we had made tHenecessai^ half, since our provisions were now becoming short But havitig serine ilime' on rrty hands« in consequence, I here repealed" the observations ' which I had formerlj' mad^or the purpose of oetermining the heighi of th^s lake above the M'-el of the sea. ., • V ^ ' 29M. Our tent was on an elevation, whence I could obtain a good ' view as soon as the weather should become clear, but there was a^ gale with snow, lasting all the day. In the evening ft moderatedrt and enabled m^ to see Cape Isabella on the \it^e«tern sea, and the high land of Shag ..^ lake which was. nearest to us; but* the new and deep snow hadj0\- " ly \ V jPh I had formerly been so well acquaii^e We however pontrivecno make our way to this lake, whichever it altered the appearance^f the land, that I scarcely recognized am of the objects with >vP) I had formerly been so well acquaii^ed. ; ivecTto ~ ' " * ■ ' ' •• ' was ; gladly finding on it a surface far more practicable for travel* ling than the rough ice of the I§nd which we h&d hitherto latwured \ through, under no small fatigue^, Havinj^ thus far euccee'ded in get- ting upon a roorb^^agreeablfi roa«l, if road it might be called, we pro- ceeded along its sbuthj^astern side, seeing a great many snow bunt- ings in the course of this walk, and well pleased to meet with these % harbingers of the spring-time of this wintry lagd. A spring indeed, of which the njigrations of those and the other animals which instinct drives to tftese regions, is the only sign, since all else is deep winter. ' Why thfjy oonrie,48 better kn^wn to themselves than to me, since we coujd n^r:At this early season discover where they found their food ; but it fs best known to I^m who directs their flights, and who as he can- not deceive them, has assuredly provided for them those stores which He has ordered them to seek, that the table which he thus has furnish- ,, ■ ed for them in the wilderness shall not be wasted for want of guest& 80M. The ureather was calm lind fine till four; and at eight >ve.j{*, pitched our tent on the land, having travelled fourteen miles : afiter*^ which it became so .thick, that we could not proceed. We however - started again at .eight ; and, after some difficulty, found the valley which led to Shag-arvoke. We had seen some reindeer, and two hares j but co»ld get no observation of the sun. I was mortj fortu- nate afterwards in shooting two of the l9jtter, amd « grouse. I here reputed, once more^e observations which i had«so recently made for tl]ie second tim#l^ the altitude of the land at this place, being very desiroflS to know what the elevation^of this tract was «bove the . level of the sea. It was It question of m'ore interest Uian may- at : K«l 7 w*- '!-m>r:T* '"*.t»^P?'^#fc»» i'/^ ' A i ,^* ■ 1 '. '* • 1 tf^ everthe- of theit darkness fog. ^r :h le^dis I deter- tli, since ritio"time rv&tions ' leheigbi n a gottd ' •e was a^ derated,^- and the out ■whe- evert^je- , d to the hadipo ized any [uai^ed. :. rhever it r travel- laboured d in get- we prro- owbuiit- ilh these ; indeed, I instinct 3 winter, dnce we eirfood; 8 he can- ;s which ifumish- f guests. Jightwe^ If: afilisr'^.'^ itowevfer - le valley ind two rtJ fort^^- I here tly made e, being bovethe may- at A «^; :> irsu a2» ■■A .... - ^ \fT0Td^^ribn9!-KiBaidiis.> ,^' first «Jxpeaif, sii^ce tliis wai the* valley, if valley I may- term it, which fprined the tnpst brief and perfect Und c'omitiunication between thc^ 6astef tt and western seas, whichjd' other circdmstances and in a veiy different climkte, might, under the aid of |rt, have formed that " north- west passage," of which, if I misfiike not, we now know as much as IS s^n likely to be known, and far more thaif will ever lie of any Use. The ttMUlt was to ^termine, that it was thirteen feet above level oT the western s6a. Had this region been thirty. degrees further to the southward, a canal company might have effected that "passage" * which nature^'faas now thdue^t fit to lefuse. • ' j*i*'* ^ c>f088«d the gulf of -Shag-a-vokd at one p the morning, and left the boat for Gommanddr Ross's party. George Baxter, one qtf the men, was ill ; but being much lightened by leaving this load, e^ we contrived to proceed, and pitched our tent on the sea, about ' S'®"*^*^^* ™»^e* ft^™ ^^ "hip, at seven o'clock. It soon came \o , blow hard, with snow, «icl as we could not get«our bed-skins dried, were h«)t very comfortable, thoijgh'well sheltered from, jbe storm. This was nearly the place where we had encamped last year ; and ■ we cbUld n mark. .• .f ^^ 'A '- *y>l,'-H«'^s*-'a** --r -\ * • < I'.r JWf*4m<"-''M^-4*.^Ml^ ■/'■'- aao SSCOND VOTAOH Of iSOSOOtmr j» ■Jf ;(«. ' ■carcelv say, of j» winter, in severity an^duration^ which does not onlyrelate to the climate in which we noW. were, but to that from whidi these animals migrate; thus indicating the pi^valen^ of a bad and protracted cold Mason over all the regic^^ of northern America. ; The journal kept oi^. board during my absence is nferely that of the weather, and doe* not require to be detailed. For both, for the absent and those ajt home, the circumstances were nearly the ' same: and the several! sick men were better. The summary of Miay doos^notpresent much. Its weathei* had ° ^^° ^ ^^^^ contrast to that of ^ same month in the last year, xhte sun had scarcely | made any impression on the snow, and no water had yet been seen. The maximum temperature bad been plus 36% the lowest ijoinus 16% and the li^n plus 16«. Com- mander Ross's first journey had deten|ain§3 that there was no passage into the westei-n sea at Awatutyak and therdbra none to the southwai-d'of 72% This joi^y had been a very unfortunate . one for the mate Taylor, who was «xpected to lose part of his right ^t; and the-rest were 9o much fatigued that they were scarcdy recovered in fourteen days. The report of health for this month is therefore an unpleaaiant one; but there was no threatening of • scurvy, and to this, the supplies of fish, procured from tin nativei, had essentially contributed^ My own journey had enabled me to extend the geography of this part of the country, in spitet^of the obstacles pr^uced oy the wJeaUiQi^ j^di had also prolonged the intended ^ht days to el^vfn.' G^n^, it may be remarked, was still rare; and this was a more interesting matter as related to the season, than as concerned our ami]|ement or our supplies. The southern animatfi were indeed migratingito the northward; but in no great nuAbers; and they were the Uendar of the spring, as I have alifady remai:ked, if indeed we l^ad not warning enough, in the surrounding wiste of t arrived. yetj % ■'■/' -■■{ ■■ i- ik .- ^^W CHAPTER XLI. \'-4. TVaruactions in Jmum^Setum of Commander Rots /romiMit *■ " - ' ExpefUtion. L ■ . ■ ' .... '■ ^^June Ut. Thb weather was cold on tba H^^lmd the fiilliiiiwi^ and on the latter it was stormy. 2d. The sledge was brought ui .-, L ■■/% '->-: •.iat, , — , L ■/'■'- TO THB ARCTIC HEGlbirS. V J^ fek P'*'*'® '*''®™/* '"'*' ^^"^ '^f*- ?he lowest point to wJiich It was now hoped, to register its Tiega*iVe scale, fpr some time to ^It was a bad ednimenceinent «rf this month, to find that it had ^SVH^^'^lr^ti to,^mputate part of the foot of the mate Taylor, which Whs mortrfied.. TW was accordingly performed by the surl St Th«*1h 'r ^^.'P«rti««5 that of suffering well, to the ' SSSS'soJ^^t^ -'-''"^ •"'^^^"f likely t^escape for a for^fhl''''^'""'^5^^"?^*^*° '"*''®^ '■^^^^^^ it is not intended tmrSw^"'^'®-!, ^''''T^ "^y "^^ management, but that ftiture .travellers m northern climates, not less than navigators like our- iV v^ nSrTw * ^f'^ "!?" '^"^^'^ attentiof can effect. It flnv2„^^. ' *** no travellers, under any circumstances,- nor any navigators, among all those .who have winter^ in northern chmatesj have ev6r ericountered the winters of rcountryS Xrri!* V^'^^'Tl *?^ ^ '*°''"»' "or in thW duratSfS Z our^S T '"** *^ *^^*^""y ^^'"^'^ «^°''"»' Thus was it W «, it P«8». not one winter or one year, far less one or a SLT*'*!' °1 ™^' °^ J*'^ ^''^ ^»^o eiperienced the cold of toese chmates have done, but a long succession of years, of which IhffiltfJ^'^ '^^^ *^'*' °r'y **•« ^^°'« « one lonX'nter wK Itn»l K ^"^P"*'"' " *^^ records of our long dIJntion in the ce S I!:^2^^^*"l:r**'^ ^''^^^ ^°*'^« ^''or wiStry climate, seasons , of uncomi&on sevei^ty. • «»«>yuo h«?«J'°'*T »P' "%of our toils out of doors^^I my jbumal m^foh?^'^*'^'*-^^^**:!.?"'^ '"«°' '"^« ourselves,. travelled as ' S nr irr '^'"M?* '»»^nred in ^o open air. without reWric! S«llff ; ° ^'''"^? <*jeet and for every purpose that our duties demanded, even as if we had been in Eng/anJ/ No service was nSL'T!!^ **'" countermanded, from fears of the weather, except SLt^ r^^ '"^"S" circumstances which I have always p^ted out whenevVthey occurred. H6w truly this is the fact, Zf ?"'y ^P"^"^ ^'■°'"?^ ^''ole of this narrative, since it i« IhJtMmpIe statement from which all may draw\the conclusionito wHI« /• " "f^*'^« incumbent on tm to point their attention, white It IS not my desire to do more. • «'"""«»» JH^uH^A "''" It® *«niperature, or nrttler what were the tem- peratures, during these protracted seasons of almost one lone and nearly unparalleled winter of four years? The reader of thS ■*"*;^fi?~i»«n>oni recorded on almost every day. m has ■een that the freezing point was nearly a summer heat to us, that LSJL aS7h«Tf " ^^n'Porate." 1 may almost call it, of Z seasoBs^and that if we were cold, it was because the thermomeSr J 1^ btSK ' 1 lA ■ ^ ' ' '^ v; , ;- \ ■ • p ■ - J i «S: ■>" "' — "■ ■■> Ti': "* ''■■■• / ■k- 4 • %. \\. Jt V -^ ■."WW^^i aixjoxo YOTAOi or PiaCOVBRT ^ 7 H^ ^° "tPTow, of wHjd aii4^.Miow# , did our men onciounter them in their «e«eral joujrueyi^ fapQ the gile and the drift, ilod fall asleep ' in ^ housa of ice, 'even when exhai^sted by i^tigu^ «iid weakeiied loo by vradMf sufScJent food T All this has been seen. It has . been «eeq that we were often fer underfed, and t have shawm what alrknow, how this cdnduqes to the Jiftjurious e0ecta of oold on the ; body. ^ Yet und$r all thesit &x jxwiirleM^ all the«> labboii,f ailitfa^ae J>nvali9o^'aiid ail repeated and eodiurtng Uireugh theJoHg-^Nice of our yeariB,.on& irian, alone was frofst-bitten, one. man «Mffe««i the loss of ar foot; while that loss was t^ eonseqiumce of h^ owa inat- r teqtioif, and nothing elsev ft tpust not then be naid t&at men can- • "^ iw»t be prot^tedfrom these accideiits, even under the worst of cir- fimatADC^ I boast of no secrets, the commooMt precautions l_i:f"!5o«d,and those precautions aw in every One's pow^n ^ JUt the WW which rbrought back to tbeir^Jipmes say whpther tlieee.4^^ .S4|l|ffiood,;l)ock which we had compared to Ailsa. ' At eight in tfas evanio^ we resuoMi our mareb to the aoqUihwest- mmd^ andp aa s nw t lasKle the islamKs, retehed a precipice, twenty nates iirom the skp, foaneriy noticeril for the gi^.which frequent iU where we saw the first that bad arrived this season^. A mile fur. Ifcer tm found two wmH^n^ tents, and were invited in l^y sonie of our '« flM actj^iMitaiiees ; thwigh they were taken by sutfvise, and all in bed, with little aucriminatioo of wives, husbands^ and children. Twe flf the young men informed us that th^ w«re on the»; way to the aiup with fish ; promisii^ further thitt they would suwly us during the summer. They had (teard^Coearaaoder-RosMiut had •not seen hiif^,.and bad observed our pontoon witheiwt meiidling with it They were direcasd to the dap, and we parteo. .0fA A thick fog came ^a. biM we hmd om owb fonner tracks and those o( the na&vea to gmde w. At eight we tmokmi ShagH - voke and pitched oo the shore, as the sun's 1^ was oaoe more tip stPM» to bear. I left the inteoded stock of ptovwioas fbr€om- f«BMind«r Eoss. with a note, and ereei«d a caixa and a flagstaff with the necessary directions. As the fog agsiHi wevented a «s»mi^ing v^ any thing, we tBned our steps bemewMd. r, - * » -jjTi— iasaie...... -— TO THE ARCTIC BEOIONS. / Ma *u\^!u'^h *rabk8 of the natives whfch we followed, showed that they had no sledges, but were dragging their things on skins: and, at five, we pitched at our fbrmer place, where, at last, we found water to drink: Vier which I left them, that I might send aid from the ship, in consequence of which I arrived three hours before them. 1 lound that the two natives had been there, but had not broueht the hsh: they were to come the next day. Of the reports of the ship during our absence I need only remark, that the ice-hole had been cut through, and found to contain seventpen inches in tbickneM of new ice. ' , " ■,-■.' v ■■■;-'^-o /■ ., u^l^j?**® party with the sledge arrived, and long after, thfise Who had been sent ifi meet and assist them; having missed the place: 1 he welcome natives came at eight, bringing ninety-seven pounds 01 tosh, consisting chiefly of small cod and coalfish, with a litUe Sal- mon, besides a bear-skin and some clothing. The women came aiterwards, apd were admitted on deck, as Saturday was an incon- venient day to receive them below. More fish were promised on the following day. / I2th. At five in the morning of Sunday, thke arose a fdfious snow-storm from the westward, which Tasted for sixteen hours. Notwithstanding this, aftfer divipe service, the promised party came with their fish and dothing, and some other articles. After this I took them jnto the cabin, and read to them some portions of scriD- ture from the Esquimaux bible whichyT had received at Holstein- borg. This, which I scarcely expeefed, they seemed to compre- hend; listening with great s^ttention, and correcting my pronuncia- tion, while making me repeat ^uch words as seemed obscure, till they understood the meaning«|jH^n read the creed and the Lord's prayer from Egede's book, wB» seemed equally intelligible, as far at least is the words were conceriied^To confirm my belief of this. • 1 read to them from Egede's voMbdlary also, and was then satisfied that they understood his Words better than the more recent ones which have been printed. They were not suffered to depart with- out a meal of fish; promising to return. It was in vain to be anxious to know what they thought qjf what they had heard, of whether they comprehended its purpose; since we were not far encragh advanced in theif language for such an, attempt as this. • '^^l \^^ "^"'''^ occasion to regret I neither speak as a fanatic^ nor dud I ever entertain romantic^ notions of the perfecUbility df savage nations; still less being, given to suppose that any human powCT can m^ft a rfeasonahlijtobd. eficient religion onJmenwho haw^ever exerted their reason :%ho are^ deficient in every thing- on wKich a rational faith, as well as a sounc practice, can be founded and who, I may safely say it, have in them little of man but what is tound in those who approach most neariy to the pure s^imal nature Yet even thijre, God has not left himself without a witness, stranire as the demo^trationsoyhisi may often be. More than this, how- % 42 WKMt.^ - »": X '^■■'Vi,%. li •jiV- y ■| Hi m m 9** 6,^ If *^^' > * . » 830 msn^ l'...v> ■^ :g >.-■ ''S" SXCONO VOYAOB O w^l^^ VKBT ever, i«i.whtt I should have desired to see, but that I had not the inean8* '^oy** Society a paper on the subject of the North Magnetic Pole, which they have done me the honour to pnnV I need not here repeat the preliminary or other general re^ marks^which it coiitains, byt confine this narrative, as 1 have done my former ones, to the facts and reflections which occuired during our vbyage and our travelling: thus conforming to the journal chai^ aot«sr of the volume in which I have borne the share assigned to me. If there are scientific readers who desire to see what I have written on this subject since my return, they wMl find it in the Philosophi- cal Transactions for 1834. 7 It must be known to many more readers than those, that the sub- ject here inx[uesUon had engaged the attention of our predecessors. Parry and Franklin, during their several -voyages and travels in these regions for those purposes of geographical discovery whidh are now to familiar to every one. If all general praise of these conspicuous men is now superfluous, I must here however remark, that the numerous and accurate observations on the subject of mag- \ netism, made by them and the officers under their command, have proved of great value towards the'advancement of magnetic science in general, if more particularly to the assignment of the laws by whichtbat of the globe, as it regards the needle, is regulated. ,The gMgraphJcal restrictions, however, td which these discove- ries ha* b^n subjected, were such as to prevent them from extend- ^1? tnei""^ observations over so large a afm^ as was to be desired. •^^ J j»t difierent times made nearer approximations tp the expeStwl place of the North magnetic pole %n had ever bef&re been effecied, but the spot where it ought to- exist had been a ae^m place to them: more than once tantalizing with hopes which, it was destined, were not th , ?-. , IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) ^-^ -*!» 1.0 1.1 Ii2|28 2.5 2.2 >o ^2.0 ^^: IL25 M 1.4 i 1.6 6" 't 'v / •^ ^■ HioiDgraphic Sdmces ^ 'r^ V ., ^:..^\'^o^ ^.^if. GarporalioQ 23 WIST MAIN STMR WIBSTn,N.Y. M5M . ;, (716)t7a-4S03 J cz:^ 'v " ■',"■'' fc * - ."■ ♦^■-. ~~- . ■' '"•'. . * ■ "*■■■. V h ',' ■ ' / ■"\: * ^ 4 ' / ' ■ • - ' " ^''y.:''- -^ 4.' '" -^ ' -: . J- ■ *. / A • ■» V . %^ ■ > , a \ ' ' ." f 'v-" - ■ ■• \ •• x^ V4 . „ - ■ 1. , - .■ ■ ' " - f- v-<,. ^' ' '' ■ ■ ■ ♦ . ■ ^ ■' "0 *^ ■m * ■ ' \ »■ ■.. " ' „ ■ - ■ - ii a -. ■;■.■':■■■ . ^ ^ e . - -. . - . '■ • i * -, ■ , - • JT ■ . • . ' '■ . «• V •^ i\ •f > * * I *» • is w . '" ■ - k ■ - ■ ■ f ' % s- / • • -;4e iceyston. of all the£ thP^nll!!l**'r i«?«''.'n'"«'ion''of the navigators who had preceded us dee.^ o? IS- ""P°?"r' 'P^* ''^^ ''«^" calculated/and wiUi a hafrSeenS l^'''i.l''7'''''%P''°^"'^'^'''- ^'^'"^^ *an could iia*e oeen expected. At the time of our deoarturft fmm T7ln»i««j of w" ^^oSdr 'rf "r '" ^^°^ nortlXtS/lJiSt? iL7^i JonK'tude. Thus it appeared, that in the course of my land journey to the westward in the pfecedine year ris^ow »«!i^i,! >eoompli.hing thi. long wished-for object "^ " Wev'Xt' '" »'»'«"'"«" P'"'' f" I",-, m";ne,ic pole which 1 believed to be much more accurate than the one Which hid i,^ « i™'e^aTtnd';^''^°K'''''°''''"'"^"p^^^^^^ These observations were continued till within a few hn.,r« „f UnfoNun.tel,-^ho«-ever, the weather became .o very unfavou.»ble sro THE abct'ic BEOIONS. 933 s . our jo„r„e, ^rj^^lhel"^^,'''^' :;^^""„SS ""\?°'5 "^ pemst, ., it „a, imp„«,ibte ^ «it f^ tater wL,S S'*"^ *" ■ time was alwavs so munh <.ftn*r«J„j Ju "^'^ weather when our At three i„ a>7J^^J2^:tZ'^u:^? "^ "" "^P''"* •he opposite share of the inP.. :-? ?• ?' T'?'"™. «« crossed to and ttLued al™f the i tiCarHT ,f ""' ^"'^J ""^ "°*«. morning of tfce twLv-ei.h.t ^ "" "est^inlil eight in the con«q„i,ce of lle^phtMAia IZr 7"° fr'^"'^ '" "1'' '» ■evereVaffeetedfour Jf WpaV •°We"S -" ".T' """'^ tions folded on whaftteyhtirdic^S"?'' "f ^^''^«'^- lh^"wr.L'^;tert'„™l'rdLf ' "^".S'" "I™ ■-' ""i i-pir. It was not till the evening of this Hav *S>!! *u . J ?oph5'ir=E:drs:;:.i^reSr^^^^^^^^^ nJn. fnT"'"^ P™''^'* ^.^'■^ *=°*^ ^"^en we renewed our iom^^t ^ • ul^ evening, and the thermometer fell to ^vo^Lt midnight wh.Ie a keen north-west wind blew n.S?feS wl neverthelea, persisted^ coasting the land; examin^^ll S inS \ !i < 1 '^ -ft ■•^:- SECOND VOTAGK OC PISCOVERT and harflburs whi important had possessed more of mark or note. It was scarcely censurable to regret that there was not i mountain to indicate a spot to which so much of interest must ever be attached; and I could Uvea have pardoned any one among us who had been so romantic or absurd' isis to expect that the magnetic pole was an object as conspicuous and 'mysterious as the fabled njiountain of Sinbad, that it even was a mountain of iron, or a magne^ as large as Mont Blanc. But Nature had hei^^irected no moniimeiat tp de- note the spot which she had chosen astKe^ centre of one of jier igreat and dark powers; and where we could do little ourselves to^l^rds this end, it was our bu9iness to submit, and to be content in doting by mathematical numbers and signs, as with things of far more im- portance in the terrestrial system, what we could but ill distihguish m any other manner. We were,howeVer, fortunate in here finding some huts of Esqui- maux, that had not long been abandoned. ^Unconscious 6f the value which not only we, but all the civilizea world, attached jto this place, it would have been a vain attempt- on our part to aci^ounito themjlfor our delight, had they be6n present It was better for us that they wire not; since we thus took possession of their works, and were thence enabled to establish our observations With thel greater ease; encamping at six in the evening on a.poini of land! about half a mile to the westward of those abandoned snow houses.! The nece|sary observations were immediately commenced, and they were continued throughout this and the g^ter part of the folj- lowitig day. Of these, the details for thcpurposes of science have been sines communicated to the Royal Society; as a paper contain- ing all that philosophers require on the subject has now also been printed in their Transactions. I. need not therefore I'epeat them here, ef en had it not been the plan of the whole* of this volume to refer every scientific matter which had occulted to Captain Ross and myself, to a separate work, under the name of an appendix. . But it will gratify (redieral curiosity to state the most conspie results in a simple and pbpular manner. The place of the ob tory was as near to the inagnetic pole as the limited means wl possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of the dip, dicated by my dippiikg-needle, wjs 89° 59', b^ing ithus within minute of the vertical; While th^ proximity a not its actual existence where We stood, was |ui *./ 1 it- V t «* ic^MS as^^^- one i of this pole, if ' . ■ ^n ir confirmed by ' ■% » • -^\ •■ .-:.1 k ^ •% ■ 4 ~ ^! — T M^ / : ■ 336 SECOND VOTAOE OP OISCOVSRY - < ti- ll I the action, or rather by the total inaction of the several horizontal needles theli in my possession. These were suspended in the most delicate manner possible, but there was not one which showed the slightest effort to move from the position in which it was placed: a fact, which even the most moderately infornied of readers must now know to Ije one which proves that the centre of attraction lues at^ very small horizontal distance, if at any. As soon as I had satisfied my own mind on this subject, I made known to the party this gratifying result of all our joint labours; and it- was then, that amidst mutual congratulations, we fixed th^ British flag on the spot, and took possession of the North Magnetic Pole and its adjoining territory, in the name of Great Britain and King William the "Fourth. We had abundance of materials for building, in the fragments of limestone that covered the beach; and we therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude, under which we buried a canister, containing a record of the interesting ftct: only regretting that we had not the means of consti^cting a pyramid of more importance, and of strength sufficient to withstand the assaults of time and of the Esq^uimaux. Had it been a pyramid as large m that of Cheops, I ajn not quite sure that it would have done more than satisfy our ambition, under the feelings of that exciting day. The latitude of this spot is 70" 5' 17', and its longitude 96** 46' 45", west This subject is much too interesting, even to general l-eadlrs, to permit the omission of a few other remarks relating to the scientific part of this question, desirous as I have been of passing over or cur- tailing these. During our absence, Professoi^Barlow had laid down all the curves of equal variation to within a few degrees of thepoint^! of their concurrence; leaving that point, of coijrs^ to be determin- ed by observation, should such observation ever fall within the . power of navigators. It was most gratifying to find, on oor jcturn, that the place which I had thus examined was precisely that one where these curves should have coincided in a centre, had they been protracted on his magnetic chart; and if Tdo not Jiere state these particulars in a more full and scientific maniier, it is because of the limits which I have drawn for myself, and because I can refer to his paper, which was read to the Royal Society six months before our arrival in England. One further remark I must yet be peri^itted to make: since in relating what has been done, it would leave an important question imperfect did I not also note what ren}ains to be effected. It ha^been seen, that as far as our instruments can be trusted, we had placed ourselves within one minute of the magnetic pole, but had not fixed on the precise, spot; pI«e8u^ing that this precise point could be determined by such instrumehts as it is now within the power of mechanics to construct The scientific reader has been long aware of this: if popular conversation gives to this voyage the ih bl •>' i.* \ '■*^'- t:*VwK*.', ^l m«j*i»*»« 3f TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 337 i-f-", etk^ittit havi&g placed its flag on the Very point, on the summit of that mysterious pole which it perhaps views as a visible and tangi- ble reality, it can now correct itself as it may please; but in such a case, while a little laxity is of no moment, the very nonsense of the belief gives an interest to the subject which the sober trgth could not have done. To determine that point, with g^ter, or with absolute precision (if indeed such precision be attainable), it would be /necessary to have the co-operation of different observers, at different jiistances, ahd in different directions, from the calci)ktedj)lace; while, to obtain . all the inter^ng results which these must be expeond to furnish, such labours should also be carried aii-riefly, what yet remains fyr future observation, having pointed ckt what, 1 may fearlessly say, is still wanting, and which, as such^ cla^ims the attention of those who have the the power df promo^% a work of this nature, I can only express my wishes, ifl dare not indulge in hopes, that the same nation which>has already carried its discoveries so far, that our ow^ Britain which has alreadfy established its supremacy in scien- tific an(lt|eographical researches, will not now abandon them, and leave to others to reap the crop of which it has in this case sown the seeds. That the place for the needful observations is now far more accessible than it was once supposed, has been proved by our own voyage and its results; so that the main difficulty is levelled, and the readiest excuse that could have been offered is no longer of any weight The chief object of our present expedition having thus been ■ accomplished in a manner even more satisfactory than, we could have expected, and in a shorter time also than we had much right to anticipate, I became desirous to extend our knowledge of the country as much further to the northward as the state of our time, and of our finances, if I may give this name to our provisions, would permit Unluckily, the latter woul(| not allow me to devote more than one day to this object I could only wish that we had been better stored with the means of travelling: but, as on all former occasions of a similar nature, it was idle to regret what no contri- vance on our part could have remedied. Oh that men could live without food! was a wish that had never failed to obtrude itself on every occasion of this nature. '^ 1 therefore left the party in their little snow camp, under the care of Blanky, and procc^ed with Abernethy, at eleven in this our day-like night, along that shore which here stretches to the north- ward. After some very quiiJk walking, we arrived, by three in the 43 :-'l ! $\ -~-G- / *#i^' 338 / 8EC0NP VOTAOE 0I> DISCpVEBF morning of June 2d, at a point of m6re than ordinary elevation. We dared not venture further, for the reasons just assiirned- but hence we saw the line of the coast stretching out due north to the distance of ten or twelve miles; while I then also concluded that it preserved, m all probability, the same direction as far as Cape Walker in Ut 74« 15'. Here we erected a cairn of stones, to mark the utmost limits of our investigations in this quarter, and returning homewards, rejoined our companions at eight in the morning. In our absence, a hole had been cut through the ice for the pur- pose of examining its thickness, which was found to be six feet and eight inches. The time of high water had been observed to be a quarter of an hour after noon, and the rise and fall of the tide some- what less than three feet We had not\ been an hour in our hut before the wind shifted to the southward, brihging on thick weather, with snow; on which the ther- mometer rose tbthe freezing point The cold, therefore, no longer an- noyed us; but the consequence was as vexatious, pr even more tor- menting, since the snow of our huts melted under this temperature and that of our bodies, so as to wet us in a very disagreeable manner, it soon also blew a hard gale; but as that became more moderate about eleven o'clock, we commenced our return to the ship. ' For this haste in setting out, we had the best of reasons; beine without any thing to eat, as we had departed supperless, until we could reach the place where we had left our baggage and provisions: hoping all the while, and not without ample cause, that no bear, or no equally hungry and more gormandizing native, had discovered that store on which we depended for many suppers and many breakfasts. We reached it, and found all intact, on the morninlt of the third, at seven o'clock. The gale had now renewed itself; and it at length blew a storm, with so much drifting snbw tiiat it was impossible to tiiink of pro- ceeding for the present About one in tiie morning of the fourth, it- however moderated so far as to permi|||^ to move; and af We had examined all the shore on this routf, in our progress forward, we now met with no cause to interfere with such rapidity as we could exert Thus we reached the place of our former encampment at ten in the^oming of the fifth. \ ^. T'l?'® '^*» "ow *ess than ever to delay us, as we had se6n all Uiat this line of coast could j^ffer, and had done every thing that was to be effected. Our walk 'was, therefore, as much without note as without interruption, during two days; nor was I sorry that I had not to record occurrences and remarks which had long ceased to interest itoySelf, as they must often have appeared 'tiresome to the readers, ^ually of my journal, and of that of Captain Ross, indis- pensable A their relatiop has been. But I must nevertheless note, Uiat od the sixth, in the mornlnir, we encamjied on the spot where we had formerly been detained by the blindness of some of our party, already noticed'; arflthat I here repeated the magnetic observations which I had made in the same «.> .««c'4i*ie,ti«!» '"^n^T^^*^"; TO THE ARCTIC BBOIOMS, 339^ place during our progress forward, confirminjEfiylhem that accuracy of which it was so important to be assured. Here also I had an oppor-. tunity of examining my chronometer; and was gratified to find that it had preserved a steady rate, since it was the watch by which I had determined the longitudes on the coast which we had now quitted. ^ At nine in the evening we crossed over to the south-east point of the inlet; but the ice being very rugged, and som^ of the party lame, we did not reach it tillseven in the morning Of the seventh. At two on this morning the thermometer was at only four degriees above zero: that being a severity of temperature which we had never before experienced at the same period of the year. On the evening of this da^, at seven, we set forward once more towards the now well-known NeitchiUee, having chosen this road for returning to the ship. During this route, and early on the fol- lowing morning, we arrived at a place where we found a large party of the natives assembled; the situation in question being about three miles westward of Cape Isabella. They were busily occupied in fish- ing; and their prey consisted of the two species of cod, described in the Appendix of Natural History, by the names Gadus Mochica, and Callarias. These they took through some holes which they had made in the ice for that puniose; and we discovered from them, that this fishery was a very productive one. Our application for a sup- ply was readily granted, and it proved a welcome one to all of us. limited, both in quantity and quali|y,a8 we Ud been for some days. WA. *rom this, after resUng two hours, we proceeded onwards to Cape Isabella, and encamped at eight in the morning. But a dense fog now came on, with the efiect of rendering our route very uncertain, as it alsamade the travelling diflBcult This we endured as we could, entertaining better hopes fpr the following morning; when, at six, we a»in set out, beiiig as soon as was practicable, and encamp- ed near Padhak; having found it utterly impossible to travel any fur- ther at this time, in conseauence of the ife^eased density of the foe. But towards noon it cleared away;Wihis horrible mist, b^d enough in a known country, but incredily worse amid such ob- structions as the surface here forever presents, and where there IS no guide Ma compass, was succeeded by bright and brilliant weather. The sun shone forth, in consequence, with such power, that we obtained abundance of water from the streams wh/ch ran from the rocks and lodged in the pools formed among them: a far more acceptable supply than it is easy for readers to conceive, as it may, perhaps, surprise them to be told that it was the first natoral water that we had obtained during this year, though it now wanted but a few days of midsummer, fs *eii aught tKat can conJey a l^S" V?fr"r °/i^* *^** '"'^ °*'""» °f V "'O't atrocious cli- mate? If there be, I know not well what it isl If I here also obteined some magnetic observations, as I hud before done at Cape IsabeHa during'^this returnilig j^uVey, thjj are matter for the Appendix, not for this place. There at lei't the? can be consulted by the scientific reader, among much more, wheS -A V- \.' 340 SECOND VOTilOK Or DISCOVEBY jn meteorology or in the other branches of natural hiatory, which It haa been judged most convenient to place in such a supplement- but as far as the present observations are concerned, the paper in the Iransactions of the Royal Society, to which I have already alluded, wilJ give complete information to all those who may be interested in this subject I have, however, attached to the end of this narra- tive, the means of the observations in question, that they who are inclined may see at least the general results. It is for this simple journal to say, that we proceeded along the valley of Padliak at ten 6 dock, and reached the great middle lake, so often described, aboat midnight Then coasting along its southern shore till nine in the morning of the tenth, we halted on the northern point of a small inlet, putUng up some groyse, and seeing a nqmber of deer under the pursuit of a wol£ At ten in the evening, according to our usual plan, which advan- togeously torned day into night, we directed our course to the north-east corner of this lake, in order to ascertain whether there was any river which communicated between it and its neighbour, so a&:^ discharge this collection of waters into the sea. Thus it proved, and we thence ascertained that to be a fact which had for merly been only a matter of conjecture. / 11/A. At three in the morning of the eleventh, we arrived, in ^ this our homeward progress, at another place, now familiar from ito having been a spot of rest during mor« than one of our former journeys; but It presented at this time a very different appearance from what It had done on the corresponding day in the proceding year. At the same place, during that journey, we had been oMieed to wade knee-deep m water for nearly two miles, in crossing (^ the head of the inlet of Shag-a-voke. At present all was solict i(l, there was not a drop of wjjter any where to be seen, nor was there the Slightest mark to indicate the commencement of a thaw. Can it be believed that there were but ten days to midsummer, that all was still hard winter, and that winter in the m^iddle, I may almost say, of sum- mer: a season such as the January of our own native land seldom sees. It was no small satisfaction for hard-worked men and hungry sto- machs, to find on theopposite shore of this inlet, some provisions which had been deposited for us by Captain Ross; and, taking possession of them, we crossed the two next lakes and encamped, at six in the even- ing, near the head of the bay into which tiieir water finds ita exit I2t/L Here w^ were detained by a heavy storm from tiie south- WMt until noon on the twelfth of June, when it began to moderate, .and tempted us to proceed on our now last day of labour; the ship being at length wiUiin our reach. But our attempt proved vain. The «le was soon renewed with increased violence, and the snow drifted so densely as to entirely Wind us to our way, so that we were compelled,^ in spite of ail our efforfs and wishfes, to hall and encamp at nine on tiie following morning. It was an unusual disappoint- ment 11 we had on many former occasions been as wearied, as S, II Fel Ma Am Ma; Jal] Au| Oct Nov Dee. 18 Jan. F«b Mai Apr ■K^/^-r-^i- TOTHB ABCTIC RBQIOIIB. •341 hungry, and as anxious to reach our companions and our home, we/ had now more interesting news to relate than had ever occurred to/ us belore; but we were to exert our patience, at least this once more/ and exerted It was. , » \ But this trial of our tempers was not destined to be very du- rable. The gale at length moderated so far, that we couW Mwn- trive to see and find our way; and having but ten miles remainihK, we bestirred ourselves in proporUorf, even till midnight; when, after as much hard labour as we could well mapage, and might not have endured if not under such a stimulus, we ntared our home; still labouring with all our power till we found ourselves at length, and - once more, on board the Victory, at five in the morning of Ae thir- teenth of June. We had been absent twenty-eight days. If we were fatigued and attenuated, who could be surprised? but exctotioE petty grievances, we were all in good health. Observations on the Dip of the Magnetic Needte. Data. May aa. Jaii« L Time of the day. Polei of Uie Needle direct. 88 4»-a 8» 99-7S 88 S»80 8» 13-8 80 e-15 88 S31« 88 4T-7 88 sra 8» ]-«7 88 4»«S 88 43-36 88 SMI 88 4»0« » 48-87 80 ss-n M S-7S ■0 0-71 M 1-79 90 1S-8S •0 4-n«.01os4'W. Variation OOO 19'-3 w, rre*ioiu to ny Jouraey towaidi iha aac' netie pole -- 88o Sl'iH N. (Mat) . ^J^'S ?• ^«'H?1^ W ^' ••»• *«» ^ «'' N; long. 040 SS* W. *2 Sli*i,''-,jy*«>** dlreetlo* of laeridiao B.750W. Cnrue.) "i^2^ ?• ^"^^ direction of meridian N-gy»W;lat.W>5'17"N; Ionf.9a>itS'48"W. 8O0 » N. Aaramed direction of meridian ■ N. 150 W. Same poaition aa on the 9Efth of May. At Cape laabeUa. Lai 60O36' 90"; lon«.03051' W. At Padleak. Lat. 609 30* 1" ; long. 93o 37' 53" w, .Olwenred dip at Sheriff Bay on my return from the magnetic pole 89o a'-33 N. ( 1831.) Obaemd dip at Victory Harbour 880 54' Js N. Variation lOl" 32"03 W: lat 70> 0* 19" N long. 910 30* 33*' W. . f ■ eS^' :m^«^%&*,*. -a. ^^^4^ ' •. -uati^l^ 348 \ SECOND VOrA«K OW OISCOVDBr CHAPTER XLIII. . f J ^ ■ '. ^ . V Remarks on the -Jlssigkment qfthe Magnetic Pole. ^ "«mLtt?« Tk ^'^''^^ V'°"8ht il necessary to .dd any of my own remarks to the several journals of Commander Ross: if I do that on th£ present occasion, it is because I have reserved all my own iljagnetic observations for the Appendix, so that no opportunity t ^°i' a"* ^^ "mportant question of the Magnetic Pole has wcurri in my Own journal. «.t!Ll?'?l!V*Vt*If!V®" «PP«»red to the readers of our joint nar- .ratives, as if i had taken no personal intertjitin this invesUiraUon: t might possibly be supposed, thait in depufiAk to my acU^ and intelligent neohew, th/Siti,^,chai^ge of Se Jio^ .y&y' of t^^J^T' ^ ^^^ "^""J^^^ referred to%is g«id«ice aS labours, every o"frsh!p"arr4r''"^'^ "^"^'^"^^^^^^^ A popular^feeling, alluded to in his joirfhal, which suoDoae^ «"r„T.ir^°- ''^ niystenes to belong to the magnetic p^fe, anCe 3i;."^'"'^°'''?f'"i''«' «°°a fortune, or marveUouidepSTf r«Z»o-"'-f "!? *" '*' discovery, as if we had unexped^ly found a mountain of adamant or some other wonder never witi^B^hw ^u. also tended to make this product of our v^agr. St of iT:Tr'^^t^^r'''f'^y misplaced, and can on^ li?o?^*ti by a clearer and simpler view of the subject correciea 1 hat th^voyage of the Victory has assigned the place of this nar- ticular magneUc DO e within at iJast a very small d?8tence haXn seen; or sSouId f be suT,rised if it shall Lreafter p^^e tSt m? spot, notwithstanding his own doubts; since every man of sciencJ acquainted with the practical difficulties of this sSct wheS arising from the imperfection of instruments, or 3t eJ^ naTu^ mT^t'and hL" "T'J "^ »- V'^ct'deteSafc^^^^^^ SSn^ o?iW; hlJSr ''"'^ '' "'^^ '""* ^^"^ "8ht, even when As his narrative has already observed, the supposed pLe had btfen long since indicated by many experimeats ^^JTdiS tJe •- : .;/ .'; . . ,..■;•■ / ^ J ^ y .■ •*■ ' 1^ TO THB ABCTIC KCOION8. - .TV 3413, The ^Sinfl .L"*f'*'^* '"''' 7°^°^ 1 •' **'~"8»' *''°»« performed by' ye personal att^nuon or under the direction oC Sir Edward ParrT Thu» was It known to ua, that while wa»had advancS further ^JJ^ th.a country than the .11 fortune of this oflScer had Sitted hU t^ do^-owere we nearer to thi. presumed poinTinSid Js^t h^S been bv these observations, ahd others, and by tKculltiii^ founded on them. I know not tha( we Vould even Aave felt Z. w confidence on this aubii^ct h.^ «,Ji-r» t^I-i '_j „*^?. ?7® r«"gw«.ter ;^51^^r.,^^r^,^>''^»•^l-« •«<•» England wT^hThV kn'o^irdg; tifying,a8 it was, after our '. •* ,'■ *■ of Professor Barlow's calculations, gratiiymir as it was .ft«r «». aB<5ctions to th«r discovery of a passage which ahould enable uSn trace the course of the northern shores of America, even to SlL^J! -trait, homng too that we should effect this oSuZ «tS^ ho£ « by Cape Horn, so was h ever keot in view frim Jt « 1 "® jUj,d«i to their purpoKi « juSging them iSTI^ .?aZX" t^^^'^z:*^::" «*"-' «-». wweh'? *-gr^«' r* * l»P"'"' "M-^ k«l been obtuned, uotil ft" 1. t*io JrS fc U would not now be here worth my ihile to dfLn tK;- - *.. w:."*- X, •1- "^-r^v.^ ^ ^""■^WWiJI^f* ■fl^^'''^'* m t , it- V ^■■■ ../.^i^ . 1 J »^C"^=r"' .344 SECOND V07AOE oKsiSCOVEBT honopra as they are entitled to on this ground, or to claim the credit of having planted the British flag on this long desired spot with my own hand. Let this last closing act of my labours on this subject, as of theirs, confer such honour on thi? party as they may claim or deserve: I can say, like others, though in a quotation rather hack- ' Tif ^* ' .** ^^^^ the courage and activity of the sergeant who leads the <^ forlorn hope." A • i 'i*lV°"« *'»'8» ^ should not be justified in thus surren- dfflBng the rights of the brave, and patient, and'enduring crew of the Victory, nor nerhaps those of hfm, the nobie-mihded and generous, who sent the Victory and her crew to the Polar regions. It must be hereafter remembered in history, and will be so recorded, that it was the ship Victory, under the command of Captain John Ross, which assigned the north- wesi- Magnetic Pole„4n the year 1831, and- ttat this vessel was fitted out by him whom I ^n now call Sir Felix JJooth; a name to be honoured, had it even i^emamed without such a distinction, as long as British generosity and spirit shall be ^corded as a chanteteristic of th«.merchants of Brit«dn. - », ^ In thisway and no p!her, let the discovery of the Magnetic Pole be now viewed ; that in doing justice to any, it may be withheld from none. Surely every man of this hard-used ship, from the highekt ' to the lowest, deserves to share in the praise which the puplic may award for whatever it was our good fortqne to effect It is but a small reward, after all, for what every one endured; and sweet as it mav bej It requires much forgetfulness of our past sufferings not to leel that it was dearly purchased, while it would be hard indeed were this tribute withheld from such enterprise, such patient en- vjlurance, such toils and sufferings so long«ontinued,and such a spirit . ot hope and energy, amid circumsUnces capable of sinkiDs almost any heart into the depths of despair. ' 6 «»'»»i A ■fHrn-m*-" ft- ... TO TBE ARCTIC MMIOIT*. 34i :;>•■ CHAPTER XLIV. Transactions during the remainder qf June— The Journal and the SammaryLqfJnljf. *u'?*'**.^'*j*' ^^w fell to-day, and the ground was so covered, that BO land could be seen, nW was there an atom of runmnK water or a single pool visible. The temperature, however, rose to 400 for the first time. Son^e grouse were killed yesterday and this day, and also on the following onef On the sixteenth it snowed; yet the sun • shone after^vards, and there was at length a pool of water near the ship. 17M. That water froze again an inch thick, and did not open till noon, when some impression was made in the snow, ittereannc on the following day, and thus terminating our week. c 19th. Sunday saw the usual duties performed. On vMwday the day was warm, and the nigh^ temperature was freezing; Floeki of ducks and geese were seen flying to the northf and some crouie were killed. . <> - r "^^ 21*/. The sun had now very iiearly reached its greatest elottn- taon. It ^aa the summer solstice, ahd not a drop of rain 'had yet falleft, nor had the thermometer once made its round of twenty-fenr hours, without rekching the freezing point But in the course of this day, the first rain fell, lasting two hours: though the ice fontoed in the night had been an inch ti^ick. . 22d. There ww a fresh gale from the northward in the mominc: but on this and the following day, it froze equally hard at nisSt alongside m the ship. On the twenty-fourth it was still colcbr- since the thermometer was at 30" in the morning, and did not reaoh the freezing point tiU nine. On the following it was at the fieesinc point dl the twenty-four hours, thus 1>riqging round Saturday agaiiu A Mod many birds, consisting of geese, ducks, grouse, and plovm. had been killed within these past days. o » r -» 26th. Sunday offered no change; on Monday thwe was rain m Uie evening, and we could now at last supply ourselves with wtfw from the shore. Yet the pools froze agaia on the twwitypualh, tte thermometer iaihng to 31^; and, en the thirtieth, the metn of the 44 7 '": ■ K-^i,.-'*,t.-" I ff \ '!*■ ■^ X, HS SaoOVD VOTAOB OF DISCOVEBT. tRTWity-four hours was but 35» In the mean tinie, the ri««nir of the ship h^ been going on, and was now nearly completed. It was tomewhat dispiriting to find that we should be ready so lonir before the weather, and thkt we had arrived at the en* of June, had passed the solstice, and were still to see nightly frosts, with little compen- sation in the day. A winter solstice in England is very rarely in- deed what the summer one Was in this most miserable reeior. and most abominable Climate. Such, nevertheless, is the climate in which man contrives to live. w«"f^*M ** "° ".8^* *° ^"P"**' ^^'•PP^y- He cannot drink water at Midsummer, It is true, till he has boiled his snow: ancl had he not wit, enough to produce fire, he would have nothine to drink for nine months of the year. He smells at no flowers, for ttere are none ta smell at; but he prefers the odour of train oil. £f hJf r carrots or "small herbs," for his soup or his seasoning; wh.n h??^ ^^ ''" '!^?'°'"g »^' alike, oil, and he can find a sallaS ISTJko* «?f ^ V particulM-lj. great, in the stomach of a reindeer !« t^^^ too, cooked in a heat of which the advantages have fhTJir/T**''*u ^^ ^* °*^^" "^^ *•»«' "tterly inconceivable SfiSL / ',^' T***' "»«tters it, when he can construct coaches ;S;f?'*? 1?*"S'*^°^'*°"®"^ and if he can make his lodging, nit merdy «x>n the cold «x)und,» but on the cold snow, his fie at lf5"»?'"h";d»" and why, if he thinks so, iftie not as well lodged M the pnnces^tthe earth, the marble of whose palaces does not an- proaeh m punty to the materials of his architecture, while his own rnvble house is erected m an hour, and can be renewed, like that of must be a doble animal, that is certain, be he even under the fijrure IITl^T* m!.^°,?*J."* Esquimaux: is there another beasfo^ S^ S?i ? n ?u*" *?"' *"'*"'^ '^^ t*'"' '^°'»^'^« all this, .conform to all this, to all this and more, and still be h^ppy : happy if he is in Naples, happy too in Boothia Felix? ^ ^^^ ppyuneism h^Sl? SS *^'»'>**«7J?'«'» ""ited those who know not another or a !Er I. I V^y different effect on our feelings, independently of Si Afhl"^^'""«» and privations of which it 5as tiie cVuse. WheS SIS w.?S?" T ^'^^ "P?" the abundance of eating, and where Srha^nin?« *"?*lP*r^°' that -teady supply of themterials of mil te f ' ^h»ch these specimens of man partook with the ani- Sm^„f?r''''n?u'* «°"'*^*"*'''' *he almost sole enjoyment " and SSrt;.f„Mt:.'" ^*"*' *^" "^^^"^y °'- badness of the climate could h.rthri^.r "*' "°'' '^'■^"« ""^^ ^°^ » hard winter or a long one, t«lS^ tJ "^~°' t^nticipate a season, bad or good, to ho^e ot m^ it^! KT*'' "*"? °/ **»'"«» ^" ^^^ ^>ff«^«"t t'o us; w^ose ^^T^L ''"' °^^ i°P*' i^^"»^ "'•'«"«« •" the result I ima- £^^ ITSTk^? • T'"'''" ^"^ "'•?''' "°* arrive till winter was once IJL^itJ??^^ i'"'*i.°"?uT'* "^""^ *° "^^^^ a command that waa h^tly to endure for the better part of another year. 1 4 .V, 1_ ' .'&'. .,,. <•- "^^u"*^ for y TO THE ARCTIC RBaiOlfS. u% M *^'""'™*^^ ^^^^ month is not consolotary. If we had con- sidered the last June as colder than any which had been recorded in former voyages, the present had turned out much worse,- havimt been both more cold a'hd more stormy, for the fi#t two weeks, the mean temperature was 7°; and during the last, between 2° and 3 : giving a mean for the wholfe month, less by 5° than that of the preceding June. Moreover, tlie first rain fell on the twenty-first, and was little more than a shower; whereas, in the former year, that had occurred on the tenth. I have already noticed that the summer solstice had passed without our having had one whole day above the freezing point » There was much stormy weather; but it is also a remarkable fact, that while, m the former year, the temperature, always rose on those onions, it never alt Bred in the present one; making an essential difference between % y^wo seasons, the cause of which was not ap- parent The general «sult, in the state of the snow and the ioL has alreadrb^n seen;? and the prospect was therefore sufficiently discouraging. At th(^best, and should no worse come, this season vwas three weeks latei than any former one on record in this dimate. The possible future ^ still before us: it might prove better than was expected; but I /« \&^ not quite sure that many of us hoped much. Except the fhateJ*iiylor, all the men were now well, and his wound was healingi The supply of fish by the natives had been abundant and benefic'iai. The late period at which the waterfowl arrived was remarkabli; but our sport in general had been nuntf successfuLtlian formerljfi^^ Commander R6s%ji>ad explored much more of the coast; and It was remarked b^ both o( us, that the temperature on the weftern side of the penifasula and on the western lakea^ was from 10° to l^ lower than that at the ship, which was on the east side; while ^ comparisons Were made with such' care that we could not luiy« been deceived. / .r- ->»><» -1> E}«^«^^ \ . ^ t P-,i\ Sv 1- S4(l SBOOirD VOYAOV OF DlSOOVBRT CHAPTER XLy. .<■< Proceedings in July, August, and September, with the Sum- maries of those respective months. I -July 1st. Ths mornine was cold and 8tonn]r/and it continued to Uow hard in squaHs during the following day, the temperature falling to 31° and the air feeling extremely cold. There was snow «t ninie, and it moderated. Commander Ross went out shooting with a party, and inet a collection of five native families, all strangers to qs except one, who had been once on board during the former «bmmer. They pitched their tents for the night, and five of the men came to the ship with our o£Scers, making as much clamour on their arrival as our original friends had donie. They had heard of OS at Neitehillee, and came for the purpose of bartering some clothing for our valuable articles. ■ f It was proper, of course, to go through all the usual exhibi^ons of wonderi^ and the effects were such as might have been expected. ' They l^ul heard of the more noi^thern men, whose portraits we pos- iilMed, but had never seen a ship, as their stations were further west than AkuUee. Each received a piece of iron hoop as a present, and tiie/eng^iged to bring their articles of barter the next day, together with their wives and families. ^ 3d. The frost was so severe in the night, that it froze an inch •nd a hdf thick near the ship. There were several showers of snow in the forenoon, and in the evening it blew a fresh gale. Soon after church the natives arrived, forming a large collection of men, wives, and children. They were good booking, as Esquimaux, and their bdiairiour was orderly; but they had brought only a pair of seal- •kin trowsers for sale. All were entertained in some part of the tbip or other, and none of the women were dismissed without some yrtavat, including Among these, the valuable tin canisters. The bus- mumIb seemed particularly pleased by this attention to theif- wives. « It really seems as if these people possessed some of those feelings of pSkatrjf or ehivahry as it has been termed, which have been sup- polfed ]M«iliar.to the r^ed among men and natioqa. How rare X 1 A^'* :,-":/':■■'. Sunt' TO WIK ARCTIC RiOlORU 349 tliis i9 among the "aavages" of the lyorld, ei directly tt)e reverse the feelings and the conduct are, in most of the islands of tiie southern ocean, and, above all, in Australia, has heen long familijir. If we are correctly informedl many others of the - Esquimaux tribes in i-Jorthern America conduist themselves towards tiieir females in no better manner than the Australians; while among ^e red Indlkns of the saOie portions of this continent, if the treat- ment of wi^ varies am^tig different b-ibes, tifie balance far inclines tOHhat miktlire of aeverity and neglect which Ss assuredly the gene- ral rule for man in his Ujacultivated State. j " Whentefts this diffe'rence, equally characteristic of the present tribes and bf the Greei^landei^? We could ijot be mistaken as to the facts[ it sometime^ conscious that our templer was to look at every thing inthe most fetfiurable light; and if; to lEuropean eyes, what we hear occasionally/ related of the occupations and duties of the women seems to point to a different conclusion, it must be remem- ^ong to a system of the "division of labour." Iik e women cannot be idle; fthere is no leisure for sex which would keep thiem as objects, either of usement: all must wore, fr most would starve: e, that the duties of wom^n are here claimed as is the right/of the women^ not their service, to ut of the water, on many p4rts of the French and _^ ^ here also any infringement (|f the^ on the part of the men, woul| be resisted by ^veryweapoli which thesex so well knows how toiMSe. j It has beenlisaid that this gallantry belohgs most conspicuously, if DOt exclusi^y, to nations under /kingly ^r despotic governments, even as it did to. that singular specif of deq})otim which constituted W« can refef to the/Greek republics in proof bered that these such a condition that idolatry of admiration or ai while it is also rights, even as carr3r\'the men I^utch coasts. system. YT« can rClCI^ «» UICJ«V»1«5CB> lCpUUII«>B lU |MWVI. the/revi^liK manner; ajad who is therp now, that m rare the feudal of this theoiy, in . is not equally ready ib qubteHbe United State^of America, where the feelings of ^^flflS^y, in ne^e^ilV rendering all n^n tyrants, has produced tfeiKnegl^ at leist, of Ahe sex, which is as near an approach to ojiipression las could be bractised in a country so far partaking of Europe as it does. In the blessed country, however, now under review, this theory d,oea|4ot apply, for there is not even an aristocaracy, as there is, in mlity, no government; so that I must leave it to others to solve this problem: while this history of the palmy stat»[of the feir portiji^ of creation in Boothia Felix, may alio tend to shdw that no hypbthesis yet advanced is competent to the solution -of that great question^ namehr, the treatment of women by the other sex, ita causes and itjt modw ' 4th. The men came to-day, according to promise, brinf^ngjwme clothing and trifles for sale; but they went away soon, witii a pro- miw to return witty-tome seals and some fish. 5th. Tliere was snow, both on this day, and the next, and ;the. thermometer still fell to the 11 i ♦ »3 A ' ) .VI 1 ,1 j /^ ..^' ii.- ■f / ■«w^- / ; 350 .,; SEOO*D VOYAOB OP Dl'SOOVERt /' '^,'- freezing point at night In the morning the strangers appeared, in- forming us that th6y were going to fish in the lake and at the river where we procured Jth^ fish last year: on which 'Commander Ross engaged to accompanfc-i tjiem. • ^ 6M. Fog and snoy^'coitinued; but when our officers had arrived at the native huts jJ,s#U5a been all taken down, and the party was gone m thedirection pfNeitchillee. We were unable to account for this change of plan. A litter of foxes was discovered by one of^the "^^^-"^^oMmed the male; and a party going olit on ?•' '**y?7'J' f.¥ t'f* "''J fe™«>e' «nd brought away si? living cubs. In Boothia Felix Uv^re is not at least starvation enough to p?event foxes from having sufficient families. About twenty ducks, and some other birds, were shot on these different days. There was nothing Ih^tmL'^'itTsr^ ^*"'*^' "'^'^'^ '^' ^'^'^ -"» *« -«»»' lOM. There was a£resh northerly breeze on Sunday, and it was very cold. On the Allowing day, it was more squally, and the maximum of the thermometer was but 37°. On the twelfth, there .was the hiehest tide that we had ever seen; since it rose to more than eighteen feet, being the third day after the mooii's chanee. Our sport was very successful; and we found, among other birds, the * ?io" u ."r^"''*''- '** °^'.' °^ ^8gs. 13M. The thermometer rose to 40°, but fell again on the next day, which was very cold, with sfeetand rain and an easterly wind, so that the evpning ended at 53°. I contrived to take several fish, on these days, by means of the spear which the natives use for this purpose. 15M. This morning displayed a mixture and succession of rain, snow, mist, and clouds; any where else, it would have been a bad fifteenth of November instead of a fifteenth of July, and it nearly froze at night Two of the natives came with thirty pounds of sal- !?°.°lu "i /T™'"^ "5 ***« *®y ^*^ "*"y '"•"•e; o^ which it wa» set- tled that Commander Ross should go with a party to fetch them: a journey that would occupy four days. On the sixteenth, the ther^ • mometer reached 44°, being the finest day we had yet s^en during this year; and Commander Ross, with the surgeon and eiehtmen accompanied by the natives, departed. Why Hid we not believe it * fine and warm July day ? It could have been but 84° in Endand. and when our Christmas heat was but eighty degrees under tiSat of our own country, why should we not haVe thought a difference of no more than forty a precious boon? Jk to 3l°lr„1ih? ■ 'f-^f'' '" the day.ti^e, but the thermometer sank to 34 at night, and it froze on Monday morning, 18M, though ^kJS- '°^ *•"' ^^Y^*' "8"" ^'*° It «°"^d scared/ indeed E otherwise, surrounded as we were by snow and ice, on which all that a nocturnal sun could do was without effect It did not mater- uUy change on the itineteenth; and, in the absence of the iDst of my companions, my time waspassed in taking angles and observa- ^V ^/- TO THE AR6TtO RB0I0IT9. 351 1^ tions, and in shooting, while the men on board were busy in caulk- ing. Our boats were sunk in the water, to prevent them from splitting. 20th. The mate and five of the men arrived witl^^a sledge loaji of fish, and we found' abundant employment in sorting and disposing of them. A large proportion belonged to a store of the former year, and was not, therefore, in very good condition; thirty -seven, taken in the present one, weighed 129 pounds. After rest and refresh- ment, the men set out agftin at nine in the evening, with three days' more provisions, the pontoon, a net, and three dogs, to join Com- mander Ross, who remained fishing, with the natives, at the place' where he had appointed then). 2lst. The weather was the same; there was a warm day with a cold night I shot a hare in its summer coat; and the ptarmigans had been observed changing their plumage sometime before. I now found that there was a much gretter variety of small birds here than we had supposed last year: many that I saw this day were unknown to me: but I met with the nest of a sandpiper, with the young, as I did again .on th^ following day. On that one there was^ some rain: a rare event as yet, in thn extremely backward season. Thp surgeon arrived before the evening, to report that sixteen hun- dred fish were taken, and to demanti assistance for the purpose of bringing home four hui^dred which wei;e on the road. These arrived -consequently, at midnight; ,and the whole of the next day, 23rd, was fully occupied in cleaning and packing them in several ways; among which, some were preserved in vinegar. The weight of those four hundred, after all these operations, exceeded a thousand pounds: it was a great addition to our ttock. 24th. Having no Sunday congregation to-day, from the absence of nearly all tfa^ people, there was no service. I found a nest of snow buntings ready to fly, which I brought on board, hoping to rear them up tame. Five of the men fropi the second party arrived on Monday, much exhausted. They had lost their way, and had left the sledge five miles off, having, very impropierly, no officer with them. Mr. Thom and the remaining inen returned with them after they ha'd rested, and at. six, they brought back five hundred fish, cleaned, and weighing 1500 pounds. The curing and packing of these found employment for every one. 26M. The party again set off for more fish, after the sl^dj^e hkd been repaired; and on the next day, they returned- with tWb hun» dred, .which was all they could carry; bringing also a note from Commander Ross, by which I learned that they had taken 3378 fish at one haul. The ice was, however, decaying so rapidly, that be found they could not all be conveyed to the ship in i sound^state, even had the roads permitted, "there was abundant work for us now, and no prospect of want; those that could be spared were sent '1 V WiV 958 SSCOKD VOTAQC Or DISCOVERT f< / i>^ f^ R / , ? . it back on the same errand, to the halfway island where these fish were deposited. ' 28/A. Commander Ross arrivjed, reporting that both his parties were on their way, with five huiidred fish; and that there wwe •• many more to bring fix)m the islknd. They had taken, in all, fiVe thousand and sixty-seven, but were obliged to leave three thousand of them to the nativesj the breaking up of the ice compelling them to quit their position. At five, the first party retarned, having left the sledge two miles off One of them was ill, and the rest could brmar it no further. The second party came in at eight, with three hundred fish, and with the man. Buck, who had been seized with epilepsey, on the sledge. In the evening, both sledges retarned to the island to bring back the tent, the net, and the remainder of the fish. ® . 29th. The thermometer at night was but 36<»; but the following day was the warmest we had seen, as the mid-day heat was 50°, and the mean 41°. At eight in the morning, one of the sledges came back witti the nets and tents, and three hundred and fi% fish. Finding that two of the men belonging to the other sledge were exhausted, two others were sent to replace them, and all retarned at ten. The thermometer on Saturday night was 41**: it had never ^ yet be^ so hiah at that hour. ^^'-^ " 31*/. The day of rest was especially acceptable. The ice at length dissolv^ so mych, that we could not get on shore from the ship without tile aid of a boat; though this bay was far from beinc so clear as it was at the same date in the last year, while the ice in the offing was not nearly so advanced in decay. The month ended at last, with fine weather: there was not a cloud to be seen when the sun «et at midnight A comparison of the mean temperatare of this July with the pre- ceding one, shows that it had \Mn nearly 70" colder: that havine been 37° instead of 44°. The highest heat had been 70° in thelastT in the present, it was but 50°: but the lowest only differed by one degree; being 32° in the former, and 31° in this period. ^ There had been much work for the men, in fitting the ship for ■?i t° i/° /*®f^ °^ **'" ^^^^ '•» travelling and in the curinc 01 bsh. Many had, in consequence, been aUing as Well as fatigued but were recovering, as was the man whose foot had been amputa- ted. , He with the epilepsy was the chief patient; but as he had not Mpenenced a fit ever since we had taken him on board, we hoped that it might not soon return. The men having become more practised sportsmen, our success m this way had gone on increasing; and as every thing was thrown into the public stock and divided among the messes, the game thus obtained ^ useful variety in their diet w«*« u»«" If our success in fishing made up for the disappointment which we experienced from the natives, so was it of great use to them. 'V 'V TO THE ARCTIC BEOtORt. SM We had discovered that the salmon arrived, on the breaking up of the ice, in even greater crowds than we had at first understood; since, by entering the" water outside of the line of their course, the natives could drive them into the small pools on the shore, or even on the dry land itself. It is plain, that whatever the seals mkj devour, the fish cannot here have many enemies: while this, indeed, seems generally true of all the northern shores where salmon abound. By accompanying us in our fishery, the natives had now, for the first time, seen the use of a net, and what is not always the case with those whose conceit is ever commensurate with their ignorance, they were fully aware of its value. Seeing this, we took the trouble to ibkch them the art of making one, though not quite sure whether the materials to which they are limited would enable them to fabri- cate any that could be of much use. If this should, however, prove the fact, then had we taught them a valuable art, in making them a present of knowledge' which, to them, was of the first importance; in this too, improving their condition in a greater degree than by all the useful tools and materials which we had sold or given to them. One consolation we assuredly had derived from our communica- tion with them, of a more durable and agreeable remembrance than all the advantages that we had gained from them in the way of trade. We had sold them no rum, we had introduced no diseases among them, Bor had we, in any thing done aught to corrupt their morals or injure their healths, to render them less virtuous or less happy than we had found them. Nor had they learned any thing from us, to make them discontented with their present and almost inevitable condition. On the contrary, while we soon hoped to leave them aft happy as we had found them, we had reason to believe that they would hereafter so far profit by our example, and by the displays of knowledge and ingenuity which they had seen with us, as well aft by the various useml things we had distributed among them, as to> augment their own ingenuity and resources, and thus improve their condition of life as far as that was capable of improvement That we could not instruct or improve them in r^igion or mjorals, we might regret; but we could not blame ourselves for not under- taking a task which was rendered impracticable by the limited na- ture of our communication, and the obstructions consequent on our deficiency in their language: we at least made the only attempt in our power, by endeavouring lo instruct one of their youths; but how this failed, I have formerly shown. Where navigators in general have committed so much evil among the rude tribes which they have visited, even this negative conduct was a matter of self-congratu- lation: while we can now, at home, and when we shall see these people no more, reflect" with pleasure on what we avoided to do, and even on what we did; indulging too at times in the dream, that should they ever again bd^risited by an European people, our mem- - ♦ • .. ■ ^•y- M '-Aft H- 854 SECOWD VOTAOB OF OISCOVBRY ory may be handed down to a remote poaterity, with domiUv m ?£T%' ^r" "'.^''' ^^''^.»> 8'W- the nam^of MS.rSm£ «fr^ti^ tht^TS?"""?* ^thismonth relate tdSi;:S^ial pmcticaS; C iV'^l^'^'l ""t""^ '^ere continued when that was We w^ Im i°"««*'°"» i° "-t^ral history had been augmented. y Account ^theS,^^ SalnumobM^ at the River, mul received i»: ■ii.. Sewn cuka of Salmon pickled in hot One cMk picU( d and dried , . »|>ghtlyaalted in the rocks - . fnah apht and (briedon the rocka . Injara pfckled srith vinenr - . - Used tor the Bhi^ - w . ; ^pt tor preaent use . . . L l^pecunena • . ■ , Beeeiyed in liaga aftarwaida vinegar, in No. 1878 Z. - 144 - - \ 177 • - \ 181 r . • \ w \ 80 27 aoe Three hundred were afterwards%ouKht^ to the ahin »«.♦ «-i dogs. ^. v- if I ■ ■ ■• ., > '1 < » • ' ■ \ > t " " ' m ;•!;■ .■■'••■■' • •'■■ ^ . ■ \. *■ ■ Msibly, w Capac temifltrial 1 that was igmented. kely tobe at in the B time, it t of clear f supplies mwi Ml' >ut only .%"! S«-; TO THE ARCTIC HBOIOVa. 351 CHAPTER XLVI. Journal qf ^ugtist—the Victory moved out of her harbour^ attempts to proceed along the shore— 7^ ship forced by the' ice into another harbour — Summary qf the month — Journal qf Stptember, and its Summary. •^^ff- ^»t. It was fine weather: a party went for the remainder of the fish and returned to dinner. The ship had long been heeling to starboard very inconveniently; but she wan now cut round, and- came upright The refraction was very extraordinary on the fol- lowing day; and the third was true summer weather-^T*- *^'- -» — the ice gave way near the shij^ so that she advanced ^ ..».. -n«.gj«. It rained heavily on the next, and she was moored by a haws^lo^ to a large iceberg outside of us. 5/A. It was cold again. The gunpowder was brought on board, and the whale boat repaired. On the sixth, a party on shore observ- ed the ice in motion to the north-eastward, for the first time. There was one large pool; and the separation appeared to extend from the ' islands to the back of the southern hill. On Sunday, it had enlarged considerably, and was still increasing on Monday, when the ice was also visibly in motion, though it did not open much./' On the next ' day, the larjg? iceberg ahead of us split and upset; obliging us to lay out a hawi^r in another place. 10/^ The wind was still from the north, but there was no fur- ther change in the ice: the weathl^ proved foggy and rainy. The following day was little different; but we hove out a little further, and got the Krusenstem alon^ide.' On the twelfth Uiere tfas no eminge; but a party of the natives arrived, including four of our original friends and six strangers. They were at a fishing station^' two days off, and promised tb^turn in two more, with some skins ' for sale. The strangers received the usual present of iron hoop, and , _ were treated with a supper. / 1 2th. The party returned, wives, children, and pJl, to the amount of twenty-three, and were regaled by us with fi dinner of fish and fat. We purchased some^clothing, and accompanied tiiem '^to their T^'-) j^ A-, J I ll. <\ ■ .fr-s -1 i • '^'^5^?^*W»5" ' *** * BBOoiTD voTAAB OF ouodvmr ^ tente; glad of even their society, under o«r^reBenf dearth of varietr or amuaement <%?|f, • ^ »«••»•./ Is there %irjr Uiing that can convey in a atfonger manner our utter destifeution of all that can interest men, whether in occupation or •mus»i#i»;nt, than to confess that we found a rdief from the self-con- verse of our own minds- and the society of each other, ft-om the , eternal wearisome iteration of thermometrical registers and Widii, *| and tides, and icaf and boats, and rigging, ahd eating, in the rftnWS* 1 of th^se greasy gormandizing specimens of humanity, ' guage we could scarcely comprehend, yet whose ideas i heve, more than sufficiently comprehended^without aM^r inalM? at , all. Let no one auK>po8e that we had not felt aJl thySUiriw first, and during yeprs, afterwards, if I have f otJH^. »f I have passed It all by, as if we had never felt it Thef^lRievils of cold, and evils of hunger, and evils of toil; and- though ^e did ndt die nor lose our limbs, as men have done in those lands, wu had to shara witti the rest of the world, those evils of petty sickness which are su^ciently grievous while they exist, though they make but a small figur^^m the history of life, and would make a muqh smaller on» in that of such an expedition ni ours. Had we not klso undennme abundance of anxiety and care; of the sufierings of disappointed hope; of more than all this, and of not ksa than all, those ISdm After our far-disUnt friends and our native land, from which >ho .!SiM"^ ^ ^°^ '^^^ ''°"® ""•* *^o"e friends has eVer feen ' »eni^pi'And who more than we, to whom .it could not but often r^® 5 ^"i^** '^^ '"•8'** neve'* "g^n see those friends and'that home? y*t Was there a pain even beyond all this? and that griev- ance seldom ceased. We werg weary' fqh want of occupation, for want of variety, for want of the means of mental exerUovlfor want of thought, and (why should I not say it?| for want ofiociety. To- ^*3: wasas yesterday, and as was to-day^so would Be^to-iiiorrow: while If there was no variety, as no hope of bfetter, is it wonderful that even the visits of barbarians ^ere welcome, or can any thinir more strongly show the nature of our pleasures, than the confession •VI'u'®!-'*®'^ ***^'ft*^"'' ®^«S "" ^'^ wciety of London might be amid the business of London ?A w . "^ 3fio'',2li!St 7'»>«'l »"«f ejSH^'y* *^« thejWometeiifell to Iju^y." therefore fa r jaHUfc f courM ice remained unaltered, as may be easily MH^T^It is dlElt to convey to my readers the impression produced by this sleepy lind stationary condition of a sea thus impracticably frozen. When the winter hi once m^reality set in, our minds becoihe made up on the subject; .Iikethedormouse (though we may npt sleep, which would be the most desirable condition- by mach,) we wrap ourselves up in a sort 1^ furry Contentment, since better cannot hi, and wait for the Umes to come: it was a far other thing, to be ever awake, waiUng to rise AH become active, yet ever to find that all natore was still asleep, # \ \ - r' ''^''- % M ARCTIC RKOIOirS. / Wt and that ifre had nothing inOre to do than to wish, and troan. and— hope as we beat might \ -- o ' In this visit to the tents, we fouifd tfcat^he wooden he was once more aihng, in some manner of which I did not particularly inquire, since the fcarpenter-doetop was at hand to examine into the Rriev«# a^ice, and was ready to repair it as he best kpew how. If, in this matter, he had always displayed abundance of good nature, I believe this to be a praise Ivhich was ampty deserved bv our crew in ten- eral, in all our comniunications with these people. I do not say thgt any of our men were not really kind in their dispositions; but certam it iSj^th^ ^od nature is not less contagious than the several evil-passions, and that as one peevish or irascible person reftderi irascible or peevish, a nature otherwise kind and gentle, or find^im to be of ihorose conduct whom another person or^nother so^ty esteems as aniong the agreeable and the mild, so do gentleness and sinoothnessofdisposition and;goTlc[53, on the other hand, produce f the same yKji^ct ^even w l>efe it may net actually exist; or, at the least, ensure thte diBptay-gT good nature, where an opposite temper may be the more natural one, and when morose or peevish conduct would have called that into its worst activity. Let the married at least, profit by a remark to which the genUe tempers of our Esqui- maux have given rise. They were not. only kind, but as Palstaff says of wit> they were the cause of ki^ness'ki those around thebi I 'ncluding ourselves; and perhaps, among ourselves, in one or two! who, with a different people, would have dirolayed a far other char- acter than they did. y..< . *• > 14M. The natives were not permitW to come on board till after church, when the boat was sent for them. TMfe wooden lee had been bound with copper^ and was better than ever. We bartered and niade )>resents as usual. They were to divide th^ party the next day^'for the purpose, of going to Sbagavoke and to Neitchillee, and proniised to bring uk venison in the winter. A seiU was shot .^2 *'.JJL" * 'P^"* *° ^•^•<='» '^^ ^'^d hitherto found no^ success. 15M. 1 he weather was very bad, with an eastvly gale and rain, which prevented the natives from moving. In coMequence, ten of them came on board, chiefly tp apologize for their iog^ which had broken loose and stolen some of our fish. The p^? animals had been punished accordingly, and somewhat- too Itverely This , always appeared to us the grea^st defect in the general domestic conduct of this people; and ft lias h6en equally a subject for the re- marks and censures of b%er voyagett aqd traveller, nmong these races. They derive grea| services from their dogs, yet never appear i?i?!!l\ Ti* '"'"'''' "* ^"^^^y "«*>» and^ante fedrlS^ would be treated far worse, in every way, were it not for their in- hspensable utility. It might be an excuse, that the einine race is not hem of an am,«ble character; yet I suspect that thia character is only the result of their treatment, and that wene they domesticafed -c~---^- — 7 / ■' AfliWT'Wtor'** -' t .^t^lF] L5SIBE m 's*- :^; ■%^' SEOOITDVOirAOV OF OISOOVSRT ^ »n4 treated with the kindness which they experience ftmong oar- ^ splviBS, ^hey would be as attached to their masten and companions ; as our own are. Yet perhaps I ooriit not to blame them. ]£igland does nqttreat its horses in a much better manner; and the coimMoi- son too between a pack of British fox-hounds and a team of Enui- maux dogs, would not leave much to boast of on the part of our own (»untrymen. The m«n were treated to the seal for their dinners; and, in the evening, they left their post, after having previously re- newed their promise of supplying us with venison in the winter. The ice was in motion, and the pool which had opened was filled up again. 16/A. After a continuance of the rain, there was a heavy fall of snow, atid the.ground was all covered again, as it had been in the winter, until p renewal of the rain dissolved it onc» more. The following day presented a mixture of fog, snow, andrain, but it be- came calm in the evening; only, howler, that the same weather might return in the morning. It was mild on the next; but no. alteration took place in the ice during these three days. On the twentieth, a southerly breeze made the ice move in the offing, but, coming round to the westward, the motion of this great body of floating masses ceas^ once more; notwithstanding which, a consid- / erable pool appeared on each side of the point 21*/. There was some shifting of the ice on Sunday, so that it was loose about the ship; but it came in at last and filled up the bay 98 before. The next day there was rain, which ended in sleet, as the thermometer was never above 33°. It seemed as if the new winter was already commencing. It was cold and foggy on Tues- day, but mild on the foltowing^lay, and every thing remained as it had been. The shooting of another seal was the only variety. • ; 25th. The weather wa» much the same, but the ice near us was in motion. The whple boat was thus jatiimed between the ship's side and a large piece of these never-ending i-ocks, which, floajfaway / as they might, only departed Ito be succeeded by as bad, or trorse, / since the storehouse which supplied them was inexhaustible. "Till / the rocks melt with the sun" is held ^t impossible event, in one/ «f the songs of my native land, to which some swain compares thil durabUity of his affection for his beloved; and I believe we beganat last to think that it would never melt those' rocks, Which, even at ■}' r**,P?"°** °^ **»® y«*^» continued to beset u^ \n every shape which their beavtifiil, yet hateful crystal could assuihe. Oh! for a fire to ndelt tiiese xefMctory masses, was our hourly wish, even though it had burnt up all the surrounding region. ^ The injunr which had thus been sustained by tiie boat was socli that she could no longer be repaired so as to carry six oars. We therefore determined to construct a smaller one out of her, and she was «ccordi|gly taken on board. Another seal was shot The thermometer was 38° at midnight J W. """T --/. •--f.'-'-i-,,. P ¥ nong oaf' tmptnioiM England > comptri-. of Esqui-' f our own ' dinnera; ibusly re- e winter. WM filled fy fall of Bn in the >re, The but it be^ > weather :; but no . On the fing, but, body of aconsid- . n that it p the bay sleet, as the new on Tues- ned as it . iBty. irus was. he ship's loatfaway / ►r tirorse^ / i. "Till/ t, in one/ >are8..thil I begao^^ even at ry shape >h! for a ish, eren ^as sucli irs. We and she ot The '■•*... TO THE ARCTIC KEGIOirs; .»i'«-no.*r<»i ««j *u wmd remaine/st^y and stroSg at ^^'ZiZoS^'^t U «oi^y»iiree. We cast off, therefore, soon after four ah wJA . i^rfed topsail, stood for the islands through wLtmn^^iJ^ to's;.^:^rth''we:;^'iS' "•^^'^ -^"^ tr^-^'Si -^^ snsi i„l eastward of them; after which, shifting to the north with • »». squall. It brought the ice down along'^he north SokwJ we« therefore obhged to ply to windward, in wWch we diriv^ ™f^ ZS^^T/"""^^*^*^''- Atnineitticl^^^^^rtSe north-west, and we were Boon close in shore, after havi^Jlm four We had passed two bay«, and two remarkable rocks wh«n .* . We Serefore warped to the he«J of this new harbour, where a 1 t . t t- 1 i .V; ■' .^' . I V*-, i 'fi /\ / Mo saoovD vo¥Affa or mwovnT' !.''• iuijil the-thermometer wu Boath, and* back again, ed. From the ihore, the' as far as Andrew Roaa We found the latitude Slat. The wind fell, and we went on ihore to esiiraine the state of things in the strait; when we found ev^ry tiling blfocked up with ice: it was impassable. We shot two hu«|, and found tkeqi already in their winter dress. Round the ship> thei bay'ice was tiiioublesome, bat no heavy pieces came in. The wind then camja to the ■oiith- west, and we Bauled further otit, in ease of a favourable change. The month of August was ended, and we had sailed four miles. It had been as unpromising a month as ijt had one. The mean temperature was lower than in the gust; the snow remained longer on the ground, kqi animals which, in these countries, migrate to the noi «d. The ice was not 'so much decayed as it had _. the same period, and there had been much less motii If the last days were the only good ones for our had Iwought us four miles, to the pUoe I had nam^ Mundj^har* boar; in 1889. And here we were prisoners:^ yet tljie prospeet was not absolutely bad, since we could have got out ' late as 4he fourth df Ootbber,- and such might be' •n earlier period. ' ..«,^:f'-'-. ; ■ . r*.-.^' ::^t«- '^^'V'^'' Itwas an unplearihgciireumstanee to know,'aiat no men Absolutely sick, aud there had been no seurvy,.the health of our eraw in ipeneral was not what it had been ; as they had aborprov- ed that they were incapable of bearing fatigue, and especially the travelling among the iee. an anxtOHS ing Au- fewer M the had appear* I last year at ^n among it rarpMe, they Mund) ' It last year, as f'i i 1 ., '.y i'"- 1 liougb we had .■■-T-: TO THS ABCTIO BEOIONI. 361 shor^ with 111, than • 1 of BDOW, re nw the |r, and^had [Jnder.'this I was soon ometer was tack again, B shore, the' irew Ross ilatitude«f nd further, lied within }y a chain I cape was >thing was sd up into completely ire had just my furUier le the state sd up with iqi already Bublesome, the aoiith- le ehange. miles., m anxioas ', ceding Au- rar M the ad appear* istyearat nong it< pose, they undjiihar- ispeet was t year, as sagajp at {b we had i health of alsaproir- seiaUythe liearti sa J'''1 W ffc* •*"" '"°"*» °°.*!!® "***?*' *° "»» ^ "eed scarcely say. 1 lear that this meagre journal bears but too evident marks of nalfst d^mX J^T" *'"" ^^^ f "^Tr"!:. ^"' ""^'^ "" the jour- naiist do, mo^ than the navigator? If this was a durance of frw tlT'rih'' °^ ^'"'* variety, even the.,e had norn^^ough" to mark a ditference among them, nothing; to attract attention or ix- and IhTtL J ifT'^T °^:,'^'? ^''•"S ^^'g*^^^ «"» ^« spirits, ZtJ r^P 'tself flagged under the want of excitement; while tlTJ^r ^^'"^J'^^^ P''°jed but a wearisome iteration of what hli ?h r"""''*' ^u^°'^' °" "° *"='=»»''^"' «^«" wl'en all was new, Ininn kI^^" '"•"'' ^°, '"'T"*' '■'"' '«*« «'«' there, now that we had f^~SiT"luP"'°"^'' *° almost one spot: and, with as little to see as renwtAin, there were not materials from which any thoueht, keen- ZlTr-'';' 'T^ *'"''""^? of falsity or romance,^could fave coS- structed|in interestmg narrative. On the land there was nothing of tl 3' '° «d"'t °f descriptionr^the hills displayed no chamler, ^Ldtt Tk "I"'^ P^''^'^^ °^ *"y' """^ the lakes and rivers were WJthout beauty Vegetation there was hardly any, and trees there v^ere none; while, had there even existed a beJuty of scenwt everyjhmg was suffocated and deformed by the endless, wearisomT Jmking, unifdrm, cold load of ice antl snow. On the ses. ther^ 6 variety; for here, equally, all was ice during the far ^ater ^f the year, and It was thus indifferent what was water and what Rarely did the sky show ought to replace this dearth of . and variety below; all the means of picturesque display were ry, and when we turned to the moral picture, what was it but i-are sight of men whose miserable peculiarities were too limited* interest us long, and whose ideas were exhausted at almost Ihe nwt meeting. Who, confined to such materials as these, shall hone to' produce a book of interest and amusement? It is worse than the ^ndemnation to «make bricks without straw." Sept. 1st. To-day the ice set in, and carried away one of our irfirping lines, obliging us tolet go the bower anchor; after which the ^ip was secured with.n twenty yards of the shore, with a piece of /ice grounded between us and therocks, and with another at hand to r„ ?h.r "",*''* Tu"" '^ "^^^^"••y- 2^ There were rain and snow ^L!^T^A '"•* the passage was navigable; but we could not at- ISV • IV*'*' morning's tide. 34. The wind then came to blow from the north; and, in the evening, the ice in the strait had ""/A ^Pfr^^®- A*."'8httherewas, gale with snow. 4tA. Nothing could be done on Su&day, the ice driving up and down in a compact mass; so that it was in every sense a day of rest i r u% «*'' continued on the fifth till noon, and was succeeded Sl.?» «^1 ""^r'.^jhat we could not see the state of the ice in the stAit 6M. The land was quite covered on the following mornin., and the wind and ebb together brought the ice into thS bay wiS such rapidity, that the ship could nfot be warped back in time, and ' '' A : tht!*a I im»0^mmum^-m*.: 362 SECOKD VOTAOB Or DISC^KBT we were obliged to take to one of the grounded masses, fbir fear of being carried on the rocks. Here we had to sustain much heavy pressure, and were lifted up two feet, with a heel to starboard; being thus obliged to remain during four hours in this awkward position. The ice afterwards receding, we were enabled to warp up to the shore under cover of a quay formed by a large piece of an iceberg. There were showers of snow in the evening, and the ice was m close set outside. 7th. This day was moderate, but all attempts to get a view from the high land proved in vain, in consequence of a storm of snow. 6th. On the next, there being a northerly wind, the ice in the offing was observed to drive rapidly to the southward. 9th. It was the*same on the following, with variations of the wind and weather, and the larger lakes were almost entirely frozen over, whereas the small ones had escaped. The harbour was covered with ice in the evening, and the thermometer fell to 22°. 10th, l\th,i2th, I3th. It was even more completely sheeted with bay ice on Saturday; and, in the offing, all was motionless. Nature did\not permit Sunday to be other than a day of rest, even had we been inclined to transgress its laws. On Monday it blew ^hard from the ntMhward, and^the ice was worse packed than ever, if Uhat could be. Au^Mour hours of variable wind, it settled in the i north on thjb next day, and in the evening, blew a gale, with clear -weather; the temperature, for the first time this month, being under 20°. The ice remained unaltered; 14th. The new ice was thick enoueh io skate on; but it was an amusement that we would gladly have dispensed with. Hyde l*ark is doubtless a great regale to those who can exhibit their attitudes to the fair crowds who nock to see thatvlrhich the sex is reputed to admire; and it is a regale, in a better sen|se, when the power of flying along the surface of the glassy ice, as the fishes glide through the water, and the birds|loat in the air, with a velocity that requires no exertion, is of an'occurrence so rare, and is confined to so short a season. In another w^y, is this almost supernatural mode of motion delightful not less than useful,' when the milk-maids of Holland can thus sail with their commodities to a market, the ri- vals, not of steam-boats and miil-^oaches, but' of the birds and the fishes. Yet more than delightful is it, to see the ice holidays of • Sweden and Russia, when all the world is in motion, as well by land as by water, yet where land and water are but one element; when all the chivalry of each sex, all thoughtless of any thing beyond the present moment, is absorbed in the minutes that pass, as if the whole world had no other occupation than to fly from all care and thought, to leave every thing behind them, even as the, lightning flashes through the regions of space, heedless of all that exists beneath- its burning career. ; But yrbdJiaA .we to do with all this? To us, th6 sight of ice was TO THE ARCTIC BEOIONS. 363 bir fear of ch heavy rd; being position. Jp to the n icebere. !e was ul iriew from of snow, ice in the h. It was I weather, lereas the ice in the Y sheeted lotionless. rest, even y it blew an ever, if led in the with clear ing under it was an an exhibit :h the sex when the the fishes a velocity i confined lernatural lilk-maids et, the li- s and the olidays of II by land nt; when iyond the the whole 1 thought, ig flashes ineath- its )f ice was • plague, a vexation, a torment, an evil, a matter of despair. Could we have skated the country over, it could not have been an amuse- ment; for there was no object to gain, no society to contend with in the race of fame, no one to admire ^us, no rivalry, no encouraee- ment, no object We had exercise enough without this addition: . and worst of all, the ice which bound us and our ship in fetters of worse than iron, which surrounded us, obstructed us, imprisoned us annoyed us in evfery possible manner, and thus haunted and vexed u^ for ten months of the year, had long become so odious to our sight that I doubted if all the occupation whifch the skating on it coyld have afforded us, would not rather have been a grievance thaii^n enjoyment We hated its sight, because we hated its effects; and ^ hSl belonged to it, every idea associated wit|^it was Is there any one who loves the sight of ice and snow? I ima- gme, now, that I always doubted Jhis: I am quite sure of it at pre- J!;i hnt T 1 **!?"6''',°^ >P\W P^'^'y ?"S6««* agreeable sensations in a hot July day; 4he sight bf a Swiss glacier, in the same weather, IS "refreshing'* I doubt not This also is picturesque, I admit, as are the frozen summits of the Alps, liarticularly under the rosy tints of a rising or a setting sun. These, and more, are beauties; and thev" are not the less beautiful that they are, to some, rarilies, while they are also characteristic, and are portions of a general landscape, to which they give a new and peculiar interest, as they addto its va- rieties. In the present days, it is not also a little in praise of ice. that the traveller can say, I have visited Switzerland, 1 have scram- bled across a glacier, I have seen the sun rise on Mont Blanc while the earth below_was still in. shade, I have ascended it, I, even I, the fearless and^terprising, have ascended the father of mountains yea, even when the guides hung back in fear. Even thus is ice beau- tiful, regaling, acceptable. Thus, too, is- snow the delight of schoolboys: have we not all hailed the falling feathers, because we should now make snow balls and pelt each other, and erect a statute of heaven knows who, a co- lossus of snow to melt away, like the palace of the great female au- ' tocrat, before the sun. Is it not, too, the emblem of virgin purity and innocence, and might not much more be said in praise and ad- miration of snow? It is an evil, however, to balance 'against all this, that It deforms, all landscape, destroys all " keeping," by con- founding distances, and with that, proportions, and with that, too, more and worse than all else, the harmony of colouring; giving us a motley patchwork of black and white, in place of those sweet gra- dations and combinations of colour which nature produces, in her summer mood, even amid the most deformed and harsh of land-^ scapes. / f These are the objections ^o a snow landscape, which even the ex- perience of a day may furiiish: how much more, when, for more 364 SECOND VOTAGJS OT DISCOVEBT :-^ than half the jeir, all the element above head is snow, when the sale is a gale of snow, the fog a fog of snow, when the sun shines but to glitter on the snow which is, yet does not fall, when the breath of the mouth is snow, when snow settles on the hair, the dress, the eyelashes, where snow falls around us and fills our cham- bers, our beds, our dishes, should we open a door, should the exter- nal air get access to bur « penetralia;*' where the " crystal stream" in which we must quench our thirst is a kettlle of snow with a lamp - of oil, where our sofas are of snow, and our houses of snow; when snow was our decks, snow our awnings, snow our observatories, snow our larders, snow our salt; and, when all the other uses of '•snow should be at last of no more^vail, our coffins and Our graven were to be graves and coffins of snow. , . Is this not more than enough of snow than suffices for admiration? is it not worse, that during ten ol the months in ii year, the ground , is snow, and ice, and <' slush;*' that during the whole year its tor^ menting, chilling, odious presence is ever before the eye? Who more than I has admired the glaciers of the extreme north; who more has loved to contemplate the icebergs sailing froin the Pole -before the tide and the gale, floating along the ocean, through calm and 'through storm, like castles and towers and mountain^, gorgeous in colouring, and magnificent, if often capricious, in form; and have I too 'not sought amid the crashing and the splitting and the thundering , roarings of a sea of moving mountains, fof the sublime, and felt that nature could do no, more? In all this thei^e has been beauty, horror, dianger, every^^iing that could excite; they would have excited a pofet even to the verge of madness. But to see, to have seen, ice and snow, to have felt snow and ice for ever, and nothing for ever but snow and ice^ during all the months of a year, to have seen and felt, but -uninterrupted and unceasing ice and snow during all the months of four years, this it as that has made' the sight of those mostchiUmg and wearisome objects an evil which i^ still one in re- collection, as if the remembrance would never cease. iSth, I6th, nth. There was now no open water to be seen from the hill. The general temperature was 32°, but it did not freeze in the sun; a petty consolation indeed. The record^ of the sixteenth was not better, and Saturday left u» as it had foun^us. It is little to notice, but much where there was nothing else tb re- mark, that a' great many grouse had been killed in the last week. In such a life as ours, even the capture of an arctic mouse was an event: and if it is the custom, now, for navigators to tell every thing, to write witliout materials, what could we do bu.t follow the ' fashion, and conform to the established usages? 18/A, 1 9/A, 20th. Sunday exempts me from any record. Monday does not furnish one, if it be not that we were employed in sawing the bay ice about the ship, ih case the outer masses should set it in motion and annoy us. This it did in, spite of our precautioot} since L^. TO THK ARCTIC REOIOIT8. 365 ; for ever the heavy ice from the outside pressed .upon it during the followine day, yet without doing us any harm. 2Ut, 22d. It blew fresh, with the wind to the northward; in con- TCqufence of which the ice drifted, but still remained stationary at the harbour's mouth, so that we gained nothing. On the next morn- ing, the old ice quitted the bay, but the new remained; the sea out- aide was covered Vith heavy masses of the same interminable mate- rials, and the land with snow. We were in a v^orse condition than ever,. 23d, 24th, 25th. On this day we were able to carry the ship to an edge of the outer ice, doing this under the ghance that the follow- ing day might favour our escape. This, it did not choose to do. There was the usual hope, if wishes can be called by this name, and that was all. On Suhday the pressure of the outer ice gave us some ad- ditional trouble, but there was no good to balance it. For the pre- sent, we were « hard and fast:" I do not well know who expected any thing better to follow. If any. one was silly enough to do this, he was disappointed. 26M, 27th, 28th, 29th, 30th. The only addition that a storm and drift snow could make, was that of preventing us from wastingtigr time in hopes or speculations: there was nothing to Ije seen, and noth- *"''™»-"iw left for — -— '- — "T-i • .1 . .. day of cl possibly ne: it is some gain .„ „^ mwu«,c« with hoping, A gale of wind on the twenty-eighth could not have mended the state of things: but whatever was the fact, the snow- drift was such that we could see nothing. In the last days, the ther- monieter, at night, had ranged between 16° and 30**. The two fol- lowing ones were as nothing; and the end of the month found us exactly in the same condition, with our prospects of freedom be- coming less every day. • I may indeed say that they had ceased. It was impossible to ex- pect any further progress under such a mass and weight of winter as that which surrounded us: even in a much better one, it was not to have been expected. The worst part of thp prospect, however, was the distant one; it seemed likely that the ship would never be extricated, and that we should be compelled to abandon her, with all that was on hoard. But I believe this dream was like many others which men form, under the usual condition, of life. We fear evil evtnts, or rather, I believe, imagine that we fear them, atid then argue or ,talk our- selves into the belief that they must really happen, while ouiSsoberer judgment, under the solitude of our own thoughts (unlAar these should be those of the naturally despairing or the hypochondriacal,) 18 that the probabilities are in our favour, that the evil which we imadned ourselves to fear, will never occur, that something, we neither know nor consider what, will extricate us from the evil, as f 4 *.' M6 SECOND TOT AGE OP DISOOTEBT R r we haTe been extricated before. Thus did we fear and hope, antici- pate in despair, and then anticipate a far other prospect; relief es- caTO, triumph, the return to our own home in England, and a return to boast of what we had attempted, what we had suffered, what we had feared, what we had achieved. The uniformitj' of our journal gives to the whole record of this month, a tranquil appeai-ance; as if nothing was out of the common • °^^''',?^'* " '^^^^ *'**' ''««" •"' 'il^e the ship, at peace. It was a Tcrydiflerent th.ng, however^as our minds were concerned: but what IS a journal of hourly h*^es and fears, of fears indeed more than hopes, to those who cannot feel them; of regrets under which we could not, on examinaUon,%lame ourselves, and of that anxiety wnnsn has no repose? \ , - fi.«n° Tl "^M j' °" ""^^ occasions, whatihey think and what they ftel? Ishould desire other proof of this than any which I haTe yet seen. The eTery-day work, and, aboTe aH, when that every-day Z?nn. ^rr' """u ''^' *^"'' **•* P'-eservj^ion of life, were there W^ ;?' t^ 'heavier, the ever down-weighing duty of preserving the lives of others, leaves little time for any reflections but those which the circumstances demand. I am much mistaken if the time of ac- ™H^« fn^ fi^"" /^-^^""^^^ °^.^^^^' *'^°"8*'*» "t least than are im- C^n Jnoi^A"''' •" -^ uT We act, because we must,, and, for »K T ^-^ ^°Pt' "St^'y • * *""^ ^°'"«»' "'hen we can think of N^ofi Ji® i! : "•? '^'^en. I suspect, we only imagine what we then fought: but It matters littler historians imagiSe whatother men S^^iTr '^""Tf r''" ""*^"' »°^ '"^«'y ^'^ have as Zlh right to believe that what we think now was whjit we ourselves . thought a year before. "wivcai w?r„»!fiT!"' *''^^ff««* ^a» tangible, because it was simple. When we 6rst moved from our late harbour, every man Woked Jbr- ^ W Jhh 'f • T y^^T"' ^" '^^"""^ **^ England, andHis meet- ' i^^riL?*^ f and family; the depression of their spirits was now proportionate. They Were not less in haste perhapl to relate their adventures, most of them having kept journals; but, at present It was better n6t to dwell on these matte^by any premature d^ cussions: the time of resolving what was to he do/e, and of labour^ ing to effect it, was to come ere long. thfZE?![?**/°i''^f'"^'^**'"«^«P*«'"hers in point of temperature the present stands thus to that of 1829 and to that of 1830, name- \ILS!X r?" °^ «.^«pes less than the first, and of 4 degrees less than the last: and in the three, the extremes stand thus l«Qn %hest40°plus, lonrestn'plus. iIq? y?°- '^^P'""* *lo- 5 plus, rpu . A :^°- .^® P'""' *Jo- 6 plus- The comparison/of the weather is more remarkable. In 1829. there were stores, which broke lip the ice, and finally d?ave , It to the southward, so as to allow us to navigate this very sea at the c TO THE ARCTIC REQIOITS. 367 lope, antici- ; relief, es* nd a return d, what we lord of this le common ^ It was a serned; but deed more ider which lat anxiety what they I have yet every-day vere there lelrving the Ipse which time of ac- lan are im- It, and, for in think of t we then other men as much ! ourselves as simple. Soked for- fhis meet- pirits was ! to relate it present, ature dis- of labour- nperature to, name- 4 degrees s: lus. lus. lus. In 1S29, \y d?ave sea at the same date. It was equally stormy in 1830, with the same effects: so that we could have sailed from the position in which we now were, as late as the fifth of October. But the present month had been genera ly a tranquil one; there having been but one sale, and MnTP '^^S''\^' ?'u^^ ^'"'^» ^'^ ''««" f'-'>'» the eastSird, the blockade of the land and th« sea proved complete. There was not With 8no° '^''**"' *° > "^^"' ''"** **'*' ^''°""** "'*' ^^^^y ^^^^ **««P Our situation presented the usual mixture of good and evil. It was out of.the track of anfanals, there were no rfvers, and we did ZrJfn Ji if "/ ^'^ •" ^''f. '"J"" '"l^" "««'• "»• If we could not Snlf^r °?^^°' ""!' '"PP"'^' from J^se sources, neither could we from the natives, as the interval bet^^en them and us was filled with impassable ice. If pur aspect was .4 southern one, yet there were high hills to the southward, which^uch shortened the alread^t^ short visits of the sun. The harbodr was safe; much too safe indeed- since, for all motion, not less than for hazard of injury, we miKht as well have been walled in with masonry on dry land The first of the future objects was to economize in provisions, stil more in fuel; and X)f course, to take all possible cfre of the health of the men. Their spirits .were to be kept up as might best be; and the topics of consolation could be found, ^hatevtr thev might seem to the spveral different characters which our crew ^. eluded. We were really on our return, and had-made some progress- while there was no rd^n why that should not be complete fntS following year. There^was still before' us thei PuryVremainW 2«'lS: nJ? S7 ^^'^ hoats, to carry us into Davis's"^ strait, shou"! we be obliged to abandon the ship; whfere we should either meet a whaler, or reach thp the Danish settlements in Greenland. IfmorS WM said than I here repeat,, the usual result followed: thehooeful did not hope more, and the despondent continued to despair. W} ( ""# ») ^ 368 SECOND vorJtoE OF Discoveur CHAPTER XL VII. Journal of October— The jo\irnals of November and December, and the end of the year. ^ Oc/.l*'.2«?,3rf,4M,5M, 1831. The ^eatherwas foggy and calm on Saturday, and was little different on«,Sunday. On the following day the ice in the offing was in motioM and, on the next, the ves- - »el was cut into a better berth, in ten fSfhdms water, while the rud- der was unshipped. It came to blovifi^the fifth, and the outwards- ice began to move and drift to the AoAftWard, showing some open water at daylight about a mile from the jship. We therefore cut channels in the new ice, that we might be prepared should it o^q more; but it became calm in the evening, and all remained as before. 6M, Ithy 8th. On the three last days of the week the tempera- ture was between 16° and 1 9°; the weather being variable, with a .northerly bre02e on Sat.u'rdajr, which caused a lane and* pool of water in the offing; but<^ was all that oocurred to mark the first week of October. "IP ,. 9M,^10M, 11 M. SunfJiay, was only noticeable by the thermome- ter fallilng to 8", and by the disappearance of the little open water of the preceding day. On Monday we began to unbend the sails and dismantle the ship. It would have been keeping up the farce \ of hope much too- idly to have delayed this longer. An observa- tory on shore wfas therefore commence^: we \vere at home for the remaindet- of another year; such home as it was. ' 12M, 13th, 14M. The weather was little noticeable on the fol- lowing days. The unrigging and stowing on shore went on, and a chain was passed twice round the vessel " a midships." It was our , intention to sink the vessel, or rather, as she must sink in no long time, in consequence of her leaks, to provide the means of raising her again, should any vessel hereafter return to the place where she • was thus deposited, in safety equally from winds, waves, ice, and Esquimaux. Of the wisdom of this provision for the future, for a future as unlikely to occur as that of a season of spring and roses in Boothia Felix, I have not much to say; but it is probably our nursery education, as it may be something else, which induces us to do all that we can in prevention of waste, or, like our grandmothers, to preserve old rags, or what not, because their turn of service will come round at some indefinite future, should we live on to that pro- blematical period; which does not, 1 believe, very often arrive. 1 -. boats had itruetion of minus ;ihe d 38 miaus. iches on the . NO. srve. ' . xhibited qo Ae men, in ries, and iq^ rhe highest It minus 3^. id to 170 at had not yet go, I have athisoouq- soncliuionk storiusigtt verythi^ hey can do n the West le north of Btic circle, from India, r than the yima^fine, » require a ture. But cd8osaid» ghosts and ry uniform hole, mild, most part, , ly. After " plus 17** at ; fallen to srcise, and I onwards ter of the weather changed many times in every dav, but it was never very bad. On the whole,, it was becoming colder, and the lowest mii . night thermometer was 20° minus: on the Thursday it was as high as plus 17". The deck was cii^'ered with snow in the usual manner, for our protection during the remainder of the winter, which was now fully arrived. _ 20th to 261*. If there was any difibrence between this' week and the preceding^ it was that it felt colder, on account of frequent north- erly breezes, though the thermometer did not once fall so low; hav- ing never' been beyond 18°, while not often lower than 7° or 8° ' minus. The first threatening of scurvy in one of the men wa^ observed at this time? and on this subject I am bound to offer a few remarks. Every reader of voyages well knows what defeats of naiVal expp- ditions have beeh often the result of this twrific disease, how often the crews of ships have not merely been rendered ^ineffective, but have been destroyed by it; facts for which it would suffice to refer to Lord Anson's voyage. It is known too, that it. has raged with peculiar severity in the crews of vessels navigatii^ these northern dimates; and not only in men at sea, but among t^ose who had win- tered on shore; as is amply testified by the destruction of the Dutch crew so often narrated. For this latter fact, the nature of the food and thg country will account to medical men, so that I need nqt dwelfSnthe particulars. It is true that the greater precautions, of various kinds, |Which have been adopted in both the naval and mercantile service since the time of Cook, have most materially diminished this evil ; yet we were idaced in circumstances that every modren precaution and all our^ attentions could not have been expected to resist, and to resist for so long a period. Notwithstanding all this, the event that I hi^ve just recorded was the first real appearance of this droadful scourge ; as the subsequent record of this vdyage,.even4o the moment of quitting this country after foiiV years of dbtention, and during the whole of what I may almost callone long winter, unparalleled, too, for its seventy, shows that it never very seriously assailed our people, and, almost without exception, was the cause of serious injury„to none, vf That this was the consequence of care, cannot bedoubted:t how far the effect is due to the commander of the expeditiou, It^oes not become me to say ; but care there was, and on the part of more than myself, or the good results in question could never have been. It must be seen, in the first pliace, that we were entirely cut off from one of the best knoWn and most effective means of prevention and remedy; since the country produced no vegetable food, nor could our men learn the use of fish oil, which I believe to be one of the antiscorbutics provided by nature for the inhabitants of these frozen oUmates. It is not less true that a large proportion of our provisions 1 , 'i ' -" ■ - ■ l .-15 * ■d •■ 'i ■/ ^ r «i- ■^- I I ntviinM *<^ S73 SEOOtTA VOrKAOB QF DISCOVERY }'• I. i / consisted m the usual sdlt meat, of pork at least; but if we had an occasional resource in the fish which* we found in the couSnr! and «*^f P[e«e>^%ed «eat,nhe vinegar, the sugar, and the lem^ of our stores, I doubt if these, which have so often proved of smaS efficacy, would have maintained our men in health durinTso lon/a period, and m such a climate. "^ ' * ' There was more wanted; and that we obtained by those atteni tions which I must no w point out, for the benefit of future flavigators -ill the same country. The southern whalers assert that as a want of water IS onex)f the most efficient causes of scurvy, so they find a ^T^^^Tt^-"^ *'''' -^^ ^^^ '''T'^^ ^^t''^"* «ti"*^ 1° this matter we imitated their practice, though obliged for the most part to obtam our own water through artificial heat. With the same vie^ we never suffered our peopfe to remain in their wet cothes, as ^ contmace in warming their habitation between decks, and in carnT ing off the steam generated m it, maintained this place in a state of perpetual comfort and dryness. '\- »"ii«u* Rarely, in addition, were they ever so long exposed to cold as td SS.r T'^^/'T •*' 'r'^'"^ ^«"' «« ^e.diS. how this sour^ of debihly tends to the production of the disease in question. Beidu further, too, aware of the value of exercise for the^me purple, 5 was my object to find them constant employment, or wh^ tCsWas impossible, from the attenUon paid to the Sundays, and from the nature of the weather, they were commanded to walk, for a certain number of hours on the shore or if this was impracticable, on our well>roofed and sheliercd deck. . »"""w Further than all this, and I,may name it as the last precaution, fteir mmds were never suffered to brood over evils or to sink into despair, as far as it was in our power to prevent this: whUe I may r^'ii J J *1? ^^^ ^**-'*'' ^"'' ®^^'"^* ^^''^ ^^'g'jly successful. Yet k u "1 add»ri«l to we / • V ^ « 1 "A SBCOWD VOTAOB OF DISOOVBRT tfSd, thijotwh any refiraction. ^th to IQtk. tTnder the same extraor' dinarv refractive power in the atmosphere, the island^ were also raised fiir higher than I had ever seen them. There was nothing interesting hence onwards till Saturday. The wind was fron^aU ^ quarteifs alternately, and the lowest mark of the thermpmf^ter, being ^n the last of the week^ was 22° minus. 11/Ato 17IA. Sunday came in with a strong northerljrffalei, which, with a temperature of 24** minus, made it very cold. (% Monday at noon it moderated, so that the next day was calm and clear; but another gale sprung up on the fourteenth, Mowing bard during the two following days, but ending in a; calm and clear Saturday. The temperature varied during the week between 2° and 81**^ minus. I8th to 34f A. It being calm and clear on iSunday, the temperature ftU to 85**. It continued fine till the twentieth at night, when it blew a stjbnn, and the thermometer rose to 8°; while that gale, with sfr. vere drift snow, mcreased tUl mid-day on the twenty-first, subnding to a calm in the evening. ' Thus it continued till the twenty«fourth, the/ thermometer having ranged between 24" and 86". : 86^ Chri8tma8.day was made a holiday in all senses. In the cspin dinner, the only fact worth remarking was, a round of beef iHiich had been in the Furjr's stores for dght years, and wluch, with •ome veal and some vegetables, was as goodf^ the day on which it was cooked. 5^- ' fl know not whether the preservation of this ment thus secnred, b^jinterminable or not; but what we brought home is now, 1885, as Dd as \fhen it went out from the hands of the maker, or whaiteveit his designation, the Gastronome for eternity m short, in 1628. it can be kept so long without the slightest alteration, without lEven the diminution of navour in such things as hare soup Wnd i of carrots, why may it not endure for ever, simposii^ji^t'^t'^ Sis were themselves perdurable t Often have I imagmed what ihoi^d have felt had Mr. Appert's contrivance j^f which, y6t, neither he nor his successors are the real discoverers), been known to Rome, could we have dug out of Herculaneum or Pompeii one of the Suppers of LocuUus or the dishes of NasidieaUs; the " fkt paps of a sow,'Va boar with the one half roasted and the other boiled, or a mursena fattened on Syrian slaves; or, as might have haf^ned, a box of sauces prepared, not by Mr. Borgess, out by the very hands of Ajncius himself. How much more would •Btrauariasr and they even more than Kitchener or Ude,havetri- wnpned at finding a dish from the tinlrt of Amenophis or CephrMies, in ^ tombs of the PlMuraohs; have regaled over potted damties of four thousand years' standing and hav^ joyed in writiiu; books on the cookery of the Shepherd kings, or of lum who was drowned in the Red Ma. Is it possible that diis may yet be, some -thousand yean benee, that the ever-during frost or Boothia Felix may pre* • >. ■ J~ TO xSi AROnc REOIOffS. B extraor' ivere also s nothine i froiyafl " tnpm<^ter, iki,\ subsiding )ty«fourth, IS. Inthe ad of beef tdch, with on which B secured, r, 1895, as whaitOTev t, in 18S& n, without soup Wnd ^at^ ;med what o( which, icoverers), laneum or asidieniis ; d and the , as miffht irgess, put ore would I, havetri- IlephrMies, damtiesof I books on rowned in •thousand may pte> 87d 1% 2|6 reign of George tKourthTH^^ ? London during be for the antiquaSes of^Sia Pdff^i^H J^ ''^ T^ » «*»? ^^^h fch discoveries slTKriS.^** ^'^^^ *^ ^^^ ^ bu?Xe ks' St^'of oE!";^ *? "°*^ ^" '^' "«»t three davs, not bo replSS^d SeTfn^^™"' *?^*°^' «^c« *ey c3 The TemSS7t^mtnAiTJ''V^ our future depeJdencS ended with the thlrmr&rijo"*^"^^^^^^ ^^^'^ *.°1^""' ^^ ^ tmore than ST. On cu?tinl i: • * "* ^H^^l" ^^^ »* h«o. *=JL ♦ , .,. i >- 5: l;is9I^SIri«l;3 !>-|>i3l»S«„lri • fei^si^SlSsiri. ,, f r\ ti - » ^ ♦ ,.^ - . , . .,#: '....- W'^: ' '• .- - *. ':. i» ■- > .',__: . ■ . 1 1 '•^V '< «• •: -l.: .... , i. "'' f' fc '* i IN I r 1 1 i Id 12 I I s«ll^l a « i s t"^ GO ^ a « • ' - 13 JO go 1 « aa I as s ifef X S 8 f !s .* - + g ^ ■ Id t § sis; s §1 t s ).«■ + g i ."I .1" -ill I ffl H « . 2 8 ^- . . I Ml. I ^ 'ft .1 III ^ -8 ^T- ■^i44 I, ? Is 0|*«l^ol«>«|af i5* life ,®' "t' S JO- g f i 3 ai 6 f I ss " ^ ^ es «IS'|SS|«9|| CO u ;s > * 1 « d ' CD g rs 1 t-.. d CO 1 -|»o|*o,|,|| ' - K • ■ • il|5lL|.|| 1 sll^lSslisi K' 1^ |d , r •w] at {2 1^ ^ SI r + '^fl ••o .S .9 •fes ^ 13 |H ^ |; S ^ e 8; .v» * 15- ^ s s § 11 in H. i| ^ t I »4 H IK sgsl^slSai I? » *" 2 <5 en -li"rli«li ^ § ^ CO ^*4 3 loa • Is *|s|s| »«B ,09 '1=14^ M (=. ^rlriris O* flO sio||»il'ii „oo|Qa^i« lsl$ti»l I 8 i i . + « R — s 7 1 1 cs ^ ^ i § + ^ * •fi." "^"S ■.r "Si s s I ll 4 ^ ■•"■■ '- \ *» « CO ■ S 3 « II 11. il Ml I j |» IS IH \^ lao iH 9i <5 o H at as 8' I I £ S 1^ ^ ^ ^ disc's "s I 1^' i:l iri . 1^ |« JOB |;q 8 |3[w 3 fl? « ^ s in ll S a 8 S I ll II 11 11 I "> ' ^OlgOl o|o|g.io:..o: ' . is 1^ 19 l.-i^^f^^^ ^** SEOOKD VOTAOS OF DISCOVERT ' ■'■'■.--■ h . ; * ^ -.,.■■ ■ CHAPTER XLVm. '^ Journals f>f January^ February, and March. t 1832. Jan. Ist to 5/A. Sunday being past, we prepared our min^ jng tools for the purpose of making a place of concealment for our stores. A very brilliant meteor, as large as the moon, was seen^^ finally splitting into sparks, and illuminating the wKole valley. Th© ' thermometer fell (P 36° on Tuesday, and to 40° on the followinfc^ . day; rising again but to reach the same point on the next, when there was a brilliant aurora of a golden colour, passing through the north star. I repeated the experiment formerly made with the dif- ferential thermometer, to as little purpose. / 6/A to8/A. The thermometer came down to 46"» but, being calm, ' it was not very cold: it is certain*' also that we had now resumed our winter standard of sensation on this subject. The aurora was again ieen on Saturday ; and Sunday passed as usual. J^he invalid Dixon was considered as rapidly becoming worse. J 9tk to 14(A. Till the thirteenth, the weather was variable, but tranquil, and often calm. The temperature rose from 46*' as far as 12°. On the tenth, the long-ailing James Dixon died. A heavy fall of snow, with a storm from the north-westward, brought another week • to a dose. The same men who had been employed,whenever it was possibleon the tunnel, had also prepared the grave for ourpatient 15/Ato21rf. Itwasnecessarytopostpone the funeral on account of the weather: but a sermon appropriate to the subject was select- ed for this Sunday. On the following morning the interment took place with the usual solemnities. T^he two next days were mild, andth&workofthe tunnel went on. Onthe three last orthe week, the weather was variable, and the thermometer from 26° to 29°. 2\H to 28/^ It begin however to blow fresh <>n Saturdfiy night, and continued with great severity all this ^ay and thq followmg. •" On Tuesdinr it fell a Tittle at nbon, but was as violent as ever in the evening. In Spite of the drift, the sun was seen on this day, b^it the ' ^jBtoim continued on the twenty-fifth, and did not subside tilf the noon of the fdlowing day, when it was clear and cahii. The last twd days of the week were moderate^ and the thermometer ended on Saturday night at 33° . 29iA to 31»<. On the Sunday and Monday the wind was north, and it was very cold, with a thermometer at 80°. It varied little on the following; and the month ended on the thirty-first, with a tempera- nre of 26°. Little or nothing could be done out of the ship on most of the past days,'and onr exercise was ^ually restricted to the deck. Dunng three out of the weeks of this' month there was windy or t stormy weather, which made the cold severe though the mean temperature was oply two degrees lower than it had been in the preceding January. That mean is 27° minus, and the highest and lowest aie minus 8° and minus 47°. We tried to find some conso- % ■■;. '■} I /■'. ":"< '< */ ' - ^ ■■;. our mivh)i It for our' was sceoy^. }y. Th©' blloWibg^ it, wh6ri.. ough the ^thedif. ngcalm, resumed rora was e invalid ble, but as far as vy fall of lOTweek never it r patient account s select- Bnttook re mild, le week, night, lowmg. "^ r in tm Wit the ' tie noon 1st tw6 ided on rth,and • I on the mpera- »n most le deck, tndy or 9 mean I in the Bstand conso- ,f. -U TO THB AROTIO HIDOIOirS. Ml S»l Se^n^rSrS?"^ **'"* ^^'' ^^ ^^""^ ^ ^^^ of ice by. The weather interfered so much with our observations that fi,«» lunpunt to nothing; besides which we had norrnaa alma^aJ for thepresent vear. Of the aurbra which is noted above! Wr^ " oltiJviF'^J*'" "'r^*^^ "^'^^^ »o an unusual di^ei^ had Xrfo iJS^^'liT'^ begins to be yeiv different from what it Had hitherfo beeji. -AH were much enfeebled; and there was a good deal of ailmebt without any marked diseases^ An old Jound ^ S"?^.^''" "^° had^bjoken out, ^Srith bleeding ; and I knew t«^ weU that this was one of the.indications of scurvy. That aH were Ta ^nsibiht^ fell was not Jeast the victim of anxiety. But men mist «« r A^" V^ P® m^ began with a furiqws storm, wWch rising irom »» to 18 . ,rhe ice was cut through, and its thickriAM foun3 to be five feet and upwwds; , The lake,^at ?h^ ««me & was frozen to the bottom. W^^ere sufficiently nri«>rewbyTe ' ™ffiv ;?***• °^*''^''^iP^ but it seemed destined t4t sheSoK really our pnson. as the stormy and cold weather rendcrWitsS l^'!!!/^''! •/ ° '*'°'* ourselves beyond the roof or deck. It is not wonderful if we were dull. «• *i.wum fi/Ato^lKA. A strong breeze, from the endless northward, on Sun- day, became a gale, lasting during the two next days and^t breat ing till Wednesday; when, at night, it at length fJll calra^^nd 3w hennometer sank to 36°. Hence on till Satu?aay,it wwsufficieS^ ly fine to allow the men to work at the tunnel, md Uie swrSn to take their walks, though withouf any succ^ sportsmen fcf ®'^^revent all with her, od that of ixpectedly degree of boats, and ons. It is > imagine ongfawith Saturday, c; andtbe Uttledif- hot^hthe B next two ing again r variable Srst tracts with that ometer at risonedby theSati^- vt prevent ear were t confine- beoamea Id be done tween 8r jrevemof moderate DOW be of gradually 4** minus, suringdie li it^[ain eret^re- / - "■^■ *^0 THB ARCTIC REOIOtS. / 388 ewuLTjourJey" ^"'' '" P'^^*""* '^^^' ^"^ necessaries for the 90th HadSlst. It was a more moderate day, thouirh the ther- .mometer at ni^ht was at 16°. There was abJidant f mpbVmeni now, m preparrng skin ba« for bedding. \n working at tKoS , J?n?«I^?^' ^y ^'^*"i« ^ *°"^ °^«^ ^^^ «P«*' «nce a strong breeae J^Jeri^t'iwTt'''"^ *° ""^""^ 9'^^^''^' "^d it was found to S &.^£Si^^^'''Y'"««T «ni°crea»ingin this month, and hav- tejJ^^ Theteniperature^n the last ifiin ftifoT °?»?® . '?«° temperature of the first half was lower , ^n itliad yet been m the same on the former years, since it Was Zt'i^^' ^'^- .S ^?r ^'^'^"""y '""der toward Se end, S that^the mean of Jie whole was nearly the same, being minus 3n as the lowest and highest were minus 4i» and minus 48i°. ^ BuV hke February, it was a very cold month to the feeUnn in consequence of the frequent winds; whUe it is certainly1fl3u? sitritS'^ri^ir^"^'^ the^^s^^^^ ing and concentrating our several travellingMcessaries : a woFk ^^tol'^rtTr.'r""' ^i^^ provision arms, ammunS and tools, we had fuel fo carry, had it even been but to thaw snow 'XTai^"fcoit\^"^"^ '"'*»» ^^^^^ belongS^toTilJ which there were three other men, in very indferentH hnlbS noonewasas strong as in the preceding year. On mVDarTri^^ prudent conduct, as ft concemeS this state of thingS^ nowSm^ to^, to restore the whole to fuU allow,|6ce; and £ w« aSu I- J^® W°?***' olwervations had proceeded ; but are likely to ba i>f little valub from the situation of the needle, new S^hUsaii . ^n^&'l^lJ^i^'^r''''^ '•"^ oi^inally'shown, tSeSb^v^ H^l !>• l»^Culloch have extended Sr more widely, by demoni 5!L «SJ- H- ^^V^'V*'" *® magnetic neille, so as to pro- « Jdi. Afl ^ "•rt''^.t°^ ««* with experiments^V, deL?ate 'nSllS^ "^uence was likel^to be destructive of aU true resuK There havmg been litUe snow, in comparison, and much wind AehUls were tolerably bare. Thajt wehS not seen anrnalw^ -Jjdno^^ C|r success in gii!;?^^ ■^\i ifS ■ I y ^884] •5 tf 5 S.2 <8 ct ^, W » o 1^ 6 9 s *• So 5 o io OB 00 X S o o: r 1= 0$ GOO oo Ol^ o 2 ai«|55 3 oS a 2 «• alainil|e';«liriinlri U ou>o '-\i -..2„.2*g«,« IjBcofrSUglri 3 gi 3! 9' I 00 I I ^' oa 2 £«!> itoMISQ ad d SB Sog o id CO 19 C4 1(0 CO loo iH liZt O ■ 0$ J> OD 00 Bu.»ai3telri pj< e^ Bii 3 S J. P at P> g< hi an sei %r, :%;■ . ', W^ I <-* tl III >— — — J 1 1 CO S ! ,s ,3 l»S«g IQ» 9 ef Soil coleov^lK 50 OB aa 44 TO TM ABGTIO UBOIOiri. 365 I ' CHAPTER XLIX. ^prilj-Commtnce the operation of carrying forward hn»tl skdftes, and provinons, with the liew ofahiSZtt^Ml. -^^-Continuation of the same Jr^^ttZ^ LVbaZ having passed zero before, for 136 davs. I do nrS Si*^ M ' "?' selves in the best manner that we could. (hermbineter atminiu W* «*.« «-7i. ^ '^? ^*^ '^'•» ^ ^ pliM 30*. »'°'» /8°» ''hen on the same day in laat year itwaa 49 ^ \ ,% i» /-.. •>; - 'tji' •^' "■/Jtn/ -A* .-■ V,, ^ /^ J ii ^86 SECOND YOrAOX OV DUCOyXKT •■«> ;f-- 22d. We could have doDe nothing on this day, even had it not been Sunday, as the thermometer was at minus 30° in the morning, and never rose beyond 3° minus. I must explain that our present object was to proceed to a certain distance with a stock of provi- sions and the boats, and there to deposit thenTfor thh purpose of advancing more easily afterwards. The abandonment of the venel had long ceased to be a matter of hesitation; and the object now was to proceed to Fury beach, not only for supplies, but to get possession of the boats there; failing which, our own would be put into a position on which we could fall back. 1 ^3d. Though the temperature was equally low, it was clear and calm. We therefore set out at nine, reaching the nearest boat,' w^ich had already been carried to the northern sea, about four miles from the ship; after which we drew her to the other boat and store of prQyisions, which was two miles further. The weights were tben divided equally, and we proceeded with great labour and di£Sculty, thrdtjgh rough ice^so that v^e were atlenglh obliged to carry OQ but <)ne^t atim'e, returning for the other alternately; in conse- quenjce of which we did bot gain more than a mile, after five hours' worl^. It then began to blow so hard, with drift snow, that we were obli] fed to halt and biiild snow huts. These wfere covered' with canvas, and by means of the deer-skin beds, and our -ijooking j|^ para^s, tti e whole party |0f fourteen was well accommodated, though the tempei-ature of our house at night was but minus 15*>, while |jt was as low as SO** outside. Degrees of a thermometer make little impression on readers; and, above all, the minus side of the scale is powerless to those wio have not li ved in lands like that in aiiestion. The number thirty may catch the eye, without making the readers feel that it is sixty degrees tender the freezin'^ point Our sleeping room, on this oc- casion, was forty-seven de^es under that point How did w^ continue to sleep, how can men sleep in such a temperature? This is what I nave tried to explain on former occasions, yet with very bad SMccesa, I fear, since, in this case, there is no exercise to gene- rate heat, or counteract the effects of cold. Once more I must leave it to the aU-infornied physiologists. 24M. We' proceeded soon after noon, with the second boat, through the same kind of ice, and, after four hours, reached the sea-shore, Whei:e we found a terrace of ice formed by the spring tides, so aaj to produce a level way within ^the hummocks on each side. Heije the travelling was comparatively easy, and, by six, we were about seven miles from North point, where we left the boat and returned to our quarters the preceding night. 2Sth. We began our march early, this day, with the second boat, and with the provision sledge, alternately, in spite of a very annoying wind, with anow-drift; reaching the advanced boat of yesterday, and then carrying the whole a litUe way further, till ■ :c. : ad it not morningy r present of provi- urpose of he vessel ject now ut to get Id be put clear and rest boa^' bur miles and store nrere then diflScuUy, carry on in conse- ve hours' , that we ered'with okingjiK d, though , while it i readers; Jiose wfco ber thirty it is sixty n this oc- r did w^ ire? This vith very to ffene- tust leave nd boat, ched the tie sprio] I on eaci IT six, we the boat B second »f a very boat of ■ther, till TO THE AttCTIC* ABOrONS. m eight, when we were obliged to house ourselves as on the first dav to cSKur- ^""^ *T' ''.'f '^.^''^ fr^^'" that we wer^ obligS to cut It with a saw, and could on y afibrd to thaw it bv ontiJnf w ^^S^ se.,6f ...hiret Unn^, buron this subject at least, heTe^t'lle; ryet^h^^^^ ^ W« o?t^.t?'^^'*''\r^"°"'°"" »''°"* *he'dLe«^^^^^ PJ" «•»»• heroes, since they were never in want of a cow or a C inira^SMtt whn i;? If: ^" Q.»i^ote, possibly too in the eat- thS nrim«^wr^» ' J S* ^^^ P'*'J«<»'"0". knew full iell how deeply mi!^£l ♦ •ll''*°^..^""■" ""^"'^ interests all who belong to hu manlty, as to the whole animal wee. wii« oeiong lo nu- of «niSi!ir!f *''''' ''"** were to us, however, far" from being thines MM. W« wm impnKned all the followiDe dar br 1^.^. uiiuvuii (uai we ^id not gam more than three hun- X' 388 raooBD yoTAOB oy SnoOVBBT r--. m ¥ dred vardi in two hours. Reaching, bowe^ilTiHIst, the terrtee of ice which skirted the shore, ^he way became comparatively easy, though it compelled us to go round every point of land, and ^ery bay; rendering the gain in direct distance very small. Thus, how- ever, we at length advanced two miles; when the terrace ended * a^inst a precipitous cape, which, for the space of three or four miles, was impassable over such ice as that which occupied the sea. Nothing therefore was left but to drag our sledges on shore, and attempt io find some favourable place for carrying them over land. With great labour, and being capable of taking only one at at a time, we thus at last passed three hills, on which there was frozen snow enbuffh to assist us, and reached the creek We, had in view, witfiin an island near the cape where we were detained on the September of 1889. Here, once more, we built snow huts and took our rest. 28thy29th,30th. We could not proceed on the following day, in consequence of another gale; and as this became worse on Sun- day, we decided on securing the boats and returning to the ship, as the wind was behind us, and could thus be encountered with lit- tre hazard. We reached' the hut« that we had first built, in the evening: and, on the following day, having concealed a stori of provisions there, as we had done at the former place, succeeded in returning to the ship about noon. The total result of this journey was, that we had walked a hundred and ten miles, and had advanced, in real distance, but eighteen; while it would be nesessary to go over this space three times more, before every thing could be even thus far advanced in a journey which was destined ultimately to be three hundred miles, though the direct one was only a hundred and eighty. ^ ^ I deem it unnecessary to give any abatract of the month of April as the past details are ample. May I. The first of May was mild, with the thermometer be- tween 8° and S0<* plus. 2d. We were employed in preparing provisions for the advance; and the salt meat and other stores which we could not carry were got out in readiness to be deposited in the Krusenstern on shore, as a last resource in case of our return. This, and other work occupied the following day: when, although the thermometer was plus 20<^ in % the day, it fell to zero at night 3rf, 4th. Two sledges were taken to the sea ice, four miles off, the men returning at seven o'clock. On the fourth we commenced / our second journey: the party consisting of myself and Commander' / Ross, with ten men, being the, whole of our effective crew, dragging one heavy-ioadeid sledge. After finding that which had been de- poaited yesterday, we had good ice for five miles, and thus carried on the two sledges, until one was broken in attempting to pass some hummocks in our way; arriving at the first of our stations in the night, with one of them only. . % &i TO Ttl» ABCl'lC BSGIONS. 9B^ ton-'lj"^ ft'^^'-^u""^ "'''® ''~'" *•'« expected intrusions of the irlut- 'If.; '°? '''*^'' ^'8''* *'°""' «'«'•*» *he merwent back with the brfken kJ?''^^^ ■®''°"*^ *^''' brought up on the folloxv^njE day and the broken one repaired j wheri, the loa.ls being equaS we »St out for the next station, which we did dot Wh XS'at niSft Si niehtW;i«J^X""'-"''!r"S ^he sledges, we returned to our last SS?Uj*a?^^'^^"'^^ of ^urteen miles. The thermom- J .„J'^' .^®^toat with the remaining provisions and beddin■ 'Vvl A ■- • ■■;"/■■ /•^ v^ ':» •'■l--: l^":J. :* ■* A- ' i' ' 390 ^coNS roTAOj! or msct^tEvr ■*.■■■■ , '■■ ' 1^ . OF the Tt^ng niihed and irreplac6«b1e, or even the. Teasel on a lee jpr , ' L shore. Hi a storm, it j8,*'the captain's business."' The men obey 'W their« orders, it is true, and what ttiey will|ittemi)tai}d execute, no , landsman will believe; but the watch at an end, they sleep as sound. M ir nothiqg was amiss: it is ** the captain's businessi" Our own ^ . men had, in our present voyage, seen, perhaps, enough to have ae- * ^ Quired some thoughts of their own: and possibly too,! they some- |, tifnes eonsidered of matters for which «the captain!' ought not to ' '., . have been exclusively responsible; yet the radical feefiqg loi* ever ' * brokeout, and whatever there was of unusuar and neW to be pnH* —^^^ *- : jected and done, their tbnquility remained unalte^ : it might hav6 " been wrong or right, but; it was «'the captain's business," not "■ theirs-r^ happy responsibility. on liis part, it cannot be denlecl; yet is it 4|pt ohe under which he deserves the praise which he does ■^ not always attain? ' , ll/A. We were obliged to dig the sledges and boats out of thcvsnow before we could proceed. Outr road 'was much encumbered With . wreaths of snow, from the ,gale, but we reached one of our positions ill about six hours, at aa island near tlie main, leind i^eturned to our quarters by the eviening. 'The thermometer in thcTday nearly sub- sided tO the fr^ing.point, and was plus IQ" af'night ' ^ ' . 12M,*13/A, 14M. ' At eight weiwt out With the other boat, ^ taining the extra week's provisions; and, ifi spite of a fresh„brt -^ , , with orifl snow, succeeded in getting her to the same island, retii ' ing once more to sleep/ On the thirteenth we picked up the sledge' which hadfheen left four days ago, and carried it on to the same point . llie jiext day was employed in carrying forward twb sledges, with ^ ^. , the tents, beddfng, and provisions, in spiteof a-nle which, rising when we were about halfway; gave us much trouble; as "^id the de- ficiency of two of the men, who Kad become snow blind. Weaiv- . rived late, affd built huts for the night '* 15tH: The journey was on this day deferred till theevening, ott •eeount of the orients eyes; and it became thus necessary th^t we , should hereafter turn day into night We passed acrse harbour; but were • . • at last entirely stopped at the point, ort its southerri side, by the for- ^ nidable nature of the ice. Here, however, we found that this bay- was diuded from the sea to the northward by only a narrow neck o| lanJ^ and that, beyond this, the ice was not bad. _ ' 16M. Pn the sixteenth we passed^over Eclipse harbour, thrvugh T much snow» and crossed the neck just mentioned, which was only five hundred yards wide, and not above fifty feet in elevation. We , ^ thus deseended to the sea on the other side, which proved to be a ,«. «. specious hafbour, containing one island; bounded to the north by a point s6 high, that the sea could not be seen over it The boat was then hauled to the mainland; and we returned, aft^r an advance of ' eight miles. . ,?~^ . • > • \ • 1- j^ 4 ■ . t* f.' t V •^ TO TBX-ARCTit; HXeiOITS. , 391 irowever, the worst partof th??oS/ ^* - ' °°** '' "^^ »"";?•. »d w rii:?:^.J!: s:t;r^' "" t ^"^ •"'"^ ■iiired Md could notSCSS '°"™,»»™ *'•>«* coald be of un to the natives. TW^CiX H .'i' "? ''"' "'*' ""'"'' P"" •hat I h«l over been dblSdto .ttA«., k'."" "" «"* ^"^ ^■-^ -H„g . period .?t?4feJS;;:^'s:;Kr!^iS^^^ - »r » . * -*^iki^^ (f Ml«,.i,i_j i^ 39)8 SECOND yoTAos OY mscovtnY i^ u .•: ( •: i-v I ing with an otd friend; an^ I did not pass the point where she eeased to be visible without stopping to , take a sketch of this melancholy desert, rendejted more melancholy by the solitary,*' abandoned, help- less home of our past years, fixed in immovable ice, till time should perforin on her his'usual work. ^Oth. As we proceeded, we found the snow harder,and our rotA improved; yet the heavy loads made our progress slow, and we did .not arrive at the twelve mile huts till noon. Slat. At one on the following morning, we-proceeded, but could not long carry forward more than two sledges at'once, up the hills; so that we did not gain the next post, oi>ly eight miles oft under ten hours. We ended the month of May at this, halting place, with the thermometer a^ nig^t about the freezing point. —i::^--:^ — : „-_ xiz^,^- -- _^-_i_ I may nof«» explain the plan of the journey we hiad thus Under- taken. This was, to carry both the boats pn to Elizabeth harbour, with provisions for six weeks at full allowance, there to deposit the boats and half the provisions, and to proceed with the, sledges and the other half lill we reached the latitude of 71'°, wheqce we should | send a light party of fiVe to iiscertainthe state of things at Fui^l beach. % « This month hid brought us to 70° 21' latitude, leaving us sixteen nffles more to Elizabeth harbour; and though our crew were in a very indifferent condition for work, all, even the blind man and Uie lame, were obliged to exert themselves in some manner, under which, with a revival of hope> they contrived, to keep up their spirits. , , The state of the ice at this period, and it was now it late one, wis incredibly bid. The sea was every where one solid mass of the heaviest pieces, as far as the eye could reach, in every direction; and even the cracks which we had lat^y noticed in the marginal ter- races, were again filled up to the same state of solidity with all felse. All was rock: it seemed as if there was never to be water again: but whenever this mi«ht happen, it was now but too plain Ihat the result could not be to liberate the ship which we had left, within the present year. It infas at least satisfactory to find that th^re was no rashness in our proceedings, and that nothing but what we were do- ing could have been done. I H ^ •■ ^ ■ i ■ ■ \- ■ ■ . 3 ■ • "■.■;■> •: i ii #--^ ♦.*-. ■5,r-*." •m: ' ' . .-> •■'.■. 4 *«. V.',, X ' ^^.^*i^l terta f vil 1 . 4« - — there inche tbn •( ;■■»- ■ ■ t- • » » TO TM ABCTIC MOtQirs. 898 CHAPTER I^ ' ■ I ■ ■■■-'''■ ieach^rransaeho^ and detention during July. • ^ m the morning, we arrived at the th rd sSnfdit muL Z teotT''' •^"'' """"•'' *•»« reminder offi'd";'^^^^^^ Sd. We reached the next huts thia iinv t»wk ♦u^ _*«■ . . which it wMimp<«ibl. to retu™, I <^«t7^^p^^^^ KS.ththTJ-A'-.^^rr-''"''^'''*''' ^""^^^^' ♦hi"*"!! "*u?^r.''*'""8^ '* "^^J' "»«»* respectinr thinw which I muJSL^F*^^^^ f^y* *'*'l''*'* '*«'^«'>««» mentioning oJ o^r return to England. I liave ever been more desiroas to nraisA thiTn I can helD ^h^tul''^''* ?"*' "'* ""'^ remember, mor«.than • leJerity M^f S ^^J'^ tocertBure, with somewhat more of to my iJS tLun^^V''''''^J to them, than would be agreeabfe . -^^urd/rniTati'iz^^^^^^^^ i"lx^3;^.rriS^^^^^ JL am too well experienced in mankind to be surprised or to i.n . V jiKt:;s;"^ '«^"'* '^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ~ted atg ^VeS tl.«1?*ho?"K^''' '**^ "' .^<'"P*' •»•«*»««•» ftw day, we found that IcKiclT^S^Jr "'? ''^.^'^'' ^^^^^ ''«« '^«^J" frozen thJi . incnes uiick, and we arrived at our huts at six w« h»M ...oj th. ...■»«, te-tg, ..HI u«M.gh th. ^S,S,"';J « "CJJIg -fT : IT. ' 1 — ^ — - ■ - ' V::.:.:Vi A :■"'■. i 804 - i SfCONO VOTAGB Of DBKOVBRT they were not uncomfortable. 51h. Having then licoaght on tiiie remainder of our things^ since every stage requiredi two journeys, ^ we proceeded in the evening with the sledge and one boat* and at midnight crossed the ridge which bounds Elizabeth harbour on the south. " ' 6M. On the following day we reached the exti«mo entrance, de- positing our loads and returning to the topts for the remainder. We had shot two hares in these two days, which aided somewnat our short allowance. 7/i^ We crossed the ridge as fibr as the first boats on the next day, returning to the tents at eight,, much fa- tigued from^e snow in our road. In this wiUk we saw the tracks . of reindeer, and found the hares still in their white winter clothing. ith and 9th. We wc;,re imprisoned by a storm on the eighth: andr— on the following day, every thing was brought forward to the de- pot in Elizabeth harbour. Here we alK:ended the hillf so as to ex- amine the state of the ice ; the extremely bad aspect of Which made us cpnclude that ' it would be impossible to carry the boats any . .< further. As they were ^o;w also within reach, in case we should/^ be compelled to retufn^ I determined to proceed with th^peopIe»^ and three weeks' provisions, for twenty er -thirty miles; leaving * the rest here-aa a reserve, and sending an advance partyito Fuiry beach, to ascertain the state of things at that place. [ ^ / iOth, At half-past one in the morning we accordingly iet out, with three sledges, very heavy laden; since, besides jthle three weeks' provisions at full allowance,.there were arms, ammunition, toolft, instruments, clothing, and ipibre. Some valuabl^ articles, which yre could not take, were lett under one of the hoats, which was turned up- for this purpose, that they might be safef iji case of our return. We halted at the south of tfa^ point which formS the b)ay already often describe, and then proceldl'ng, afteif i^uch tbil^ from the badness of the ice, passed it at midnight. Mth. The state of the way obliged us to mi^e fp|i> /the north point, where we pitched and had eight hours' rest; iSM. On the twelfth, we reached another point and again encamped. Hens the preparations were made for the advance' of Gomramder Ross, with Abemethy and Park, who departed at ten; for Fury poinu taking with them a sledge, fifteen days' provisions, a tent^ and such other things as were indbpensable. -Their diractions were to leave a note at every place where they dept, ^nioh we calcu4 lated on reaching in double the tiitte, with our loads, so as to be\ advanced about seventy miles when^ they should have reached to ' their joumeylEi end, now a hundred ah^ fifty miles away. This was to allow them fifteen in the day, and^^urselves sevens which was as much as we could execute after lowng three of our best men. \3th. That party was soon out of sight; bdt^we made a very slow ftognna ; being compelled to perform circilite where:they to THB ARCTIC BSOIONS. 395 /r had been ftble to jjross. After nine hours, we halted on a noint bnt even yet coald and no water at nodn/ ATthrie we ffi depot of provisions, and proceeded,' afterwardrS fourin tli« morning,, while obliged shortly to halt, on aTcol onhHl. ess of wrvTy^co^ftrilir ^'^^^ ^""^ ^^^ ^^ ^ ™ the evening, in spite of some falling snow; passing over k" so vTn?i t u ^'*""*' ""' "»*«' *•"* tlf® ca'rn erected bv the ad- vanced party, about midnighl, and completed a journe/ of nrne. vZ^JtTJT^^ ^'^u7* ^"^ P*^**^ many small bays and ^ints of land, and saw the blue mountains to the westward about ten miles distant, finishing a journey of eleven m^les by fS ii the^ Jeeded at eight m the evening. 18«A. We found water, for ihe first Ztv.'^l ^i fo"o>fin« morning, and .halted at the second cairn which the advanced party *ad erected,- finding a note to say tS they hid been checked bv lameness and by inflamed eyes Our journey thl»^night had not exceeded eight miles. ^ ».i! « j-^* had recommenced at eight last evening, and proceed- ed; finding, and seeing, all the land as completely coveSdS ZZ^lt 'J^l'^''" winter. The thermoLtSr^haS aS, sTnk in SJaiSJ that etery pool was frozen, and we wero again obliejd to thaw for water. 20/A. At nine in the evening we beganTS? in spite of a snow which continued all night, aSi arriJSd Ko m the morning at the third cairn, pitching finally, S five/on ^ point where there were some marks of former native encam^ment^ Sr»r. ^V:t "^^'^ *» dispense with water, as there, wi nonT and we could not afford fuel to melt ice. «» none, •nnJhf", ;^'.*wo in the morning of this next advanfjei we came to another caim that had been left by our predecessiwB j butThiS i^thltZini^'*'"* ""k**; ^^ '•°'°'' •'*°»«' '^Wch they had placed j but that being too rough for us to follow, we took andther couroe *"o4^*^Ir'? *"»""• "^ ''*o«»-» »»«>ted at eiAt. T?' we hi «nt hVf ",*" '**?V ' P'^ee'Jed to examine the land, as we had not before been able to survey this part of the counfa^ A*'*;';?"' we proceeded in the evening,Tu8uiU, tift J^7r! ' rived at the south Grimble islands; where I found CommTndlr Ross's caira, being the end of his foLrth day's journe^. By Ws pltTwtrrh^n^Tf ? """'*".•»' "^ ^»'' el^hJ-friUthe . ifi^Q ^T^ T- A ^"' **'^*". Powesslon on the tenth of August, 1829. 23d. As there were eight miles yet to make, before we could cross the inlet, wci preferred sleepiVig on the ici whe« ^ •*»«*l»<»«lB<«(S«ys>jjyw;«i\te^^^ -*V^/*^v, . ' 5 \- ',/, * 3M SECOND VOYAOB OF DIMOVCRT were, and after six in tlie mornings leavirfg tlie men to their reaty I pniceeded to examine tbid inlet. * After tlie usual measurements and observations, I ascertained its figure and extent, finding that its bottom gave entrance to a large river, and, consequently, that there was no opening, or pas- . sage to the western sea at this place, as might otherwise have remained a point in doubt ° It was also evidently a shallow piece of water. Having proceeded at nine, we passed two considerable rivers at the northern part of this inlet, and, after that, several islands ; arriving at a point where we again ipund a cairn, with a note. We„pitched on the south-east side, where I completed the survey of this bay. * 24tA. At three on this morning wa1*eached the fifth cairn of our advanced party ; and aSi^tl^e note reported all well, I calculated that they, would, at this date, have been two days at Fury point, and that they would consequently n;eet us on their return, in two days more. I therefore left a note at thfixairn, informing them that we had passed it, and should keep cu^e to the land; as it was possible they might take a different road and' miss us. ^5ih, We accordingly'continued our journey along shore, and passed a point, soon after which we met and joined Commander Ross's party. The information he brought from Fury point was, that the sea had risen high and carried off three of the boats, with many other things, to the northward, and that one of them was seriously damaged. All else was in the same condition as we had left it; and the bread and other provisions were in abundancaand in good order. We all pitched for the day, and found, that with what they had brought, and some which they had deposited, there was enough to last'us all on full allowance till we should reach that place. £6f A. After starting at eight last night, we proceeded in spite of a very cold fall of snow, till five, when we halted just alter having passed the sixth ofktbe advanced caims* S7fA. At two in the morning of the twenty-seventh, we reached Cape Garry, and picked up the provisions which had been left |: encamping in a strong breeze, accompanied by snow, which ended in a storm, lasting the whole day, with the thermometer at SS". 28fA. On this day we reached the Umd near the bottom of the bay, which seemed the outlet of a great river; and though unable to make ft perfect survey, I tiot only found the water shallow, but could see the land so well all round, as to assure nae that there was no passage westward iii this direction. 29i&. On the next we passed through much water, often above our knees: it was a novelty, yet not an agreeable one ; but we traced it to the efflux of several small rivers at this part of the coast. TO TIU ABOnO BBOIOm. 397 «-?°'*:u ^® "■""»•"> o"^ joBWMJy M usual, beinr now obliged tn carry the lame man, in addition to the ««t of our loil aXai.!^ edaeveral low points and islands of limestone. Thosun had I great effeet on the anow, and the aspect of the land wrhouri; changing, but, in the offing, the ice'^med asTm and3 Buous as ever. At noon the thermometer was at 47^ ««.!-♦ f-i night at 320. Wo had shot several diks injie ".^t feil^s an/ they were somewhat better than a luxury ^ us, wiS^befori °;iJhrh:ri'^frryt;:cr'^^ Finiy,we'e„«JS i/'il *;nT''* ^***'" '^■* V?^» *"***» '«»"«« down the larjre cracks ^T "J*?** that we passed were a^so pourinir down^ th^r«; spective^rrentsj and at the foot of one Sf theS we nLhS o^^ hrther. The last part of our journey was unusuilV llhoS..., from the wedged masses of ice. lo na^eil « ♦« !ii ^ laborious, ^olence whicfthey had «nde?;o't:;.?iru'tt" °^^^^ all, aadjncamped on Fury beach at ten o'clwik? JhwZ''i!TC^.T? *' '•ome, for «>ime at least, such home as It was, knd however long or short was the time that we wer« destined to occupy it There was the feeling rjome at kw? and that was something : it had been once thf home of iJl of ^«' since It had been our storehouse ; and it bad twi^hJnXL r Commander IU«. The men I doubtnot, felUlS^^^ "ftel ^ their fears, and the pleasure was littie diminishwl fewfc!™ I anticipations of what might yet be to ^?"'*'*'* ^ **"'"' ''^ •"' ^ Ihe first measure which I adopted, was to send them all tn •*-♦ for the night, that w« might once mole brine back the Jli.!?. 5? of our days, and after tSi. we pmeeded Ttiea siJ^foJ^K stows Being scattered in eve^ direction, Uwai hT^Jer d^f^ ficult to prevent the balf^tarved men from wttiniJ^ce^ T L ' in consequence of which, and in spitTof S mS«^^H -i**'"** many sureted smarily'lbr their impriden^^^^^^^^^ damage done by the high rise of the «i?fo.^tly me7^d ^l only impertant one we discovered was the h^Jf^l^^'l^^ irnSitZ"^'* '^•^-l--'- -«^-?Setair.l^-±^^^ uetS^^^H ^he£lt'SJ;/f ^S***^' '^^ -PP^inteiW their wS WM rfai^iJ f n^*^ t«i be done was to construeT^a house, iSSl^ K^ ^ ^ thirty-one by sixteen feet^ and seven feeti» I ki ■'■ ^^mi jl ii*- W i ^ »-|i u >» y ntOOIfD ▼OTAOB or DIKOVBKT i ;•■ ■ ■ "-■■.-,/. J blew a strong gale ftrom the eastward ; which somewhat impeded our woric, as that was aided by the illness of the men who had OTer«eaten themselves; but the rest were employed in bringinr the dispersed boats to a proper place for being repaired. 4th. The first shower of rain for the season fell this^ay, being ^three weeks later than had ever yet been ncorded. The^ house HfWas finished, and received the nicliname of Somerset house | this' tract of land having been previously called North Somerset Sth. It snowed on the fifth ; and this ended, in a clear northerly gale, so cold, that the rain which had fallen, ftvzf^; the highest degree of the thermometer being but 30°, as the loivbst was ^7^ 6tk.^Aa it snowed again all the night, the land was as completely covered 1^** *''• following morning as ever it had been during the winte r.' The cari>enters were set to work on the boats ; the plan foi^ which was, that each of them should be strengthened by means of two bulk heads and two strong beams. I had intended to rig the whole with shoulder of mutton sails, as the safest and best ; but Gomman(|er Rosa preferring a spritsail, was allowed to manage one of then^ in his own way. The house, which we now proceed- ed to occupy, was divided into two room% one for the men, and another, containing four small cabins, for the offlcenf: at present^ the cook's department was a tent. The purser proceeded to take the regular account of provisions. 7th. Thh snow dissolved at night ; but the ice in the offing wu as heavy as ever, and at nightit snowed again, being two degrees under freezing. Sth... On Sunday the usuil i^ularity of divine service recommenced, after many nnavoididile interruptions. 9th to I5th. Nothing of note occurred on many following ^ays, unless it be that the temperatui« rose once to 50% but was at' the freezing point at night, on most days. It blew hard on the twelfth, but moderated on the following day: nor is there any thing to record during the whole of this week, on to Sunday, except that \ the work on the boats was in progress. I6th to iUt. The weather was Tariable during the three first days of the following week, and there wlu a little rain on Thurs- . day. The snow was slowly disappearing, but the night temperature never rose beyond the freezing point. On one of thMe days I was able to ascend the highest hill, about a thousand feet high, whence I could perceive that the whole sea was a solid mass of ice, with- out motion, as far as the eye could reach. Some deep ravines, carrying no water but that from the melting of the snow, were, for this country, rather picturesque. sad to SltU Of the remainder of this month I need not give a detailed joUraaL The weather proceeded in the same manner, calm, windy, clear, hazy, and rainy, in rotation ; with a tempera* ture at night gradually rising to 40<*. Our work was uniform, conusting in the preparation of the boats and provisions : tihe -.|* ,ViM4U^ TO THB ABcrn« uoroira. ^ venkHii *n«.*k.. y"*^*^ was open, jsut as it turned outi all wim ^4^ ''' """^ *" ' '^ of preparatiou foi oS V^S'S!*'"^"'. *"' J"Jy ••»'<^8 a mean of plus ^ ?T nlSr" ^^ S"*/®' *"^ P***' «?^ There had r! ^*S'1"*1 *•!.• ""* *' • ^^'J^ '«# period: but Thefottawing u m expUmaiion of tht Meteorohgied Tabh, f,^^ nator the direction* When the S^t^o^J^ number of houn, uid th^ deitonfe to the right of the deno^ninalSSrSetS^foS- «f"I^ 7^.'"^ pJ««ed direction, tiiis wiU be rivM^b fiSlhN?! "t we d^dlt fiJ?,* on account of the falling rocks, nor could we afford fuel for cookl TZTl'iZ''''''!^'^'^- ?**•«" theeighth,tKimh^Vte„tl o";;imp"rirnt":"'' "'" ^^ «"**"""' *' -^ rate it secured 9flj. The ice in th& channel streamed off to the north, and at !nd were 5£ 5?' T/u"*'*."'*' P"«*^ more than two Hours, we could in? ?*'«^„*° '••"I °~«^ "gged ice to the first beach while we haSlSr ■** T •»"'* '^'y^-d •» to the northward, ti.irm„r«» "'^ ™"'" '^"'^ °"' *«»*• "n****- tbe precipice. The Uierfnometer was never more than 34" in Uie day, and fell to si» at night : It «ras absolute winter still. ^ " ,«1 * . / #, I, 1 1 ■ ' 4- ■ * ■ » 'l. 4 ^ 1 _1_ _ t 4 _ __ — . ■,»•■ * :Vf V ' \ s 'J • ' «• ■ ■'. • • .■ iy' ;■ ,-.- * . \ < \ ■ »*•■•' W^V*»illi***t ■'ii. 408 SECOND VOTAOB OF DISCOVERT .Vf'" lOM. It being fine weather on this day^-nre were able, by light- ening the boats, to traclc them along the^ shore to a bfetter beacb half a mile off, where we took our position at the foot of a cafrr. cade, bringing forward what we had left, l ith. We attempted to move again the next day; but were Aoon stopped by the ice, and glad to return to the place where we had a good position for the tents and an excellent harbour for the boats. 12/A. On the twelfth we were imprisoned by snow and wind, and by the absolute closure of the ice. . "'J-,^*»»«**^W'« no Chang© to-day, Mr. Thorn was sent with a boat to Fury beach, for three weeks* provisions; there being open water in that directioiT, though there was none to the north *l "^ 1-J^ H®^ ***"* ''™™ **'« no'^h on the next day: but though the effect of the wind was to produce a pool of water near us. It did not open the passage. The squalls were so strone as to endanger our tents, and to disperse the cascade in mist. Thenlcht temperature was stMl 31° or 32°, and that of th6 day wa8 4B°. «.! f!^1: "°u .*''i''*'* t?" ^r* '^*'*»'»» *° «»y *hat he had reach- ed Fury beach in three bburs, had hauled the boat up about two roues off on his way back, and expected to return to us by the next tide. I accordingly sent two men to assUt; buttHe boat could not he got off, and they came back to us, therefore, with some, of the provisions. I6th. On proceeding to examine into the state of thinirs, next day, I found that the boat Could not be brought along shore loaded, in consequence of the^ of the ice j mh, and on this and h^«„5' 7'"^* *'**"'^J''** .*')<*«« which she 'contained were brought to our present position, and the* boat was dragged up to remain till we were all once more re-united. The w?ather was 8UI1 colder, being 30° at night, while some fresh snow that fell re- mained till noon. »nnw oJS ?I1-*L^" ^Sf "^ 'J"* ^''J^ "'*'■* ^'^ » cold wind with much SpI ^ /'"''^ Y?""'**'' "*"' ■' '»**'»"• '^^«*«' on the twenty.first ; the thermometer sinking to 29°, and the boat's harbour being covered with new ice on this and the following day. That ice was two inches thick on the twenty third , but in the evening the .welth^J became calm, and it did not freeze on that night A whX wm irl ;il w' "'*"• There^wa. no change on^the folloliJ^ d^^ and the ice was every where unbroken. » "»/» rJt'^t.tt^!!!'^ northerly wind sprung up, and the tide rose eight feet, but without any effbct on the Ice. There was snow again in the evening, at 29° of temperature. On the following dily it fell to »h.\f"M.* iT?*.® ,'*''* T'^h stronger: it was left to us to guess «.^-.?i* ""'' ""•• V^ '"^ "»"" "^^'^^^ to the southward, and the pressurQ was so great on our shore, as to foroe many beavV masses Mind aJd"«ae!^ *''*" "' '^'* ^'' ""'^'**'* ""'*«'^*"^ p"^^'^ >. TO THS AKCTIC ttXOIOirS. 403 s«5 I i® "!u °^ **•" **'*® ^*" "»"« "^'^i »»"* as it was sliill blow, ing Lard from the north, the ice passed quickly to the southVary" when, veering to the north-west, it ail began to leave JheZre! and m two hours, the whole coast was clefred as far as Z cou W see. At midnight it blew a gale, witl, heavy gusto frSiXm^ cpices, so that our boats could scafeely lie whfre they were^ anT Z'Ur^^i'^^l^^'^'^^'''''^'' frozen, that the^reZ' now at£^tn?ht **''*''*'*^''*'*'' ^^''^ometer being A^t^\^^ moderated at noon,«nd we embarked, procfeeding an- der sajf along shore, and exposed to veiy heavy squalls froto the precipices, whiclr rendered extreme car/necessar™ : whe™?aS! ing Batty bay, wereached Elwin bay at midnight We then stood for a beach about a mil^further north, and a8**it was now blow- n*;h« W*;^"**'' P*?^w?"': "^5*"' *'°^'' * ^^rm of snow, which, in the bight, covered all the land. ' S?jAf It moderated, however, towards morning and we pat to sea b# four o'clock, standing fortheedge of the packed i^, iil the directum of Cape York. We then ran alongft, in hopw of J?,'^'. W?"^ P»*t"ee i but It continued to lead us out of our cSrse. till It Jinned to Leopard's island, so as to embay us; and as tlS wind was iibn increasing, it was with great difficulty we wea- r thered it, so ite to attain the land about a mile north of Cape Sen- pings, yet without being able to get tp the beach, which wi£ everv where blocked up by heavy ice. There was snow, and the ranee ot the thermometer in the twenty.four hours was from S0« to S6» ..^^^ SOth. We were obliged to sleep in our boats, in no comfortable' -yTrosition J and as our place was not tenable, we re-embarked at six m the morning, with a southerly wind. We soon met with the ice pack,^and ran along it up Barrow's strait; but to no pu pose, aji there wad no exit any where. We therefore stdod ik the shore, and found a«ood position for pitching the t^nts a» hauling up the boats; wbde it was near a monntain that p|t>mised us a-yiew of the distant ice; the pack being so high abbve the boats' gunwalts that we could not sei over it \ aiaft It snowed all the miming, aiid we removed the bUtsto the ground ice forithe sake of launchiiig them more easily. We found here many remains of Esquimaux huts, and some fox- trapi; and as we saw maI^^ seals, the reason for the natives fix ing in this place was apparent. The hill itself was a peninsula, joined to the main by a long bank, or rather a neck of land, about two miles broad, and on each side wad ft bay; while, as in neither of these the i«e had yet broken up, we had. a sufficient proof of the severity of the season. All the sea to the north was hence seen to be completely full of solid ice, though it drifted occasioii. ally, near the land, under the influence of the tides. • August had been a month of peculiar anliety ; and a succes- <% i Vl ''X''- •vS^- M il .*^^ 404 H :.-'^ . 'HECONO votAoe or DiaCOVSRT :^' sioH of hopes^and ^hsdppointments severely tried the patience of an. un quitting Fary beacii, appearances were so favourablei i that every advance to (yiy, or point, or cape, along the doist, flat- tered us with the prospect of soon reaching the northern edge of the Kf^and then of surmounting the greatest difliculty in the way.* by making^a passage across Prince Regent's inlet. By the tinwl however, that we had, reached 7S» of latitude, we were unfortuf A iL °«J.""«> » Jong by the state of- the ice, that it became doubtful If we should succeed during the present season. Here was one of thevmain trials of our patience; and a look- out house, built in the cliifs by thf men, became the chief thing which afforded them any amusement, while that consisted iS !J« ^iS'l.*!'* ^^*"«^ " *.''® ^* '^^^'^» ''^^ »»>» <«W not ar. -^ nve. ^Ihnf detention reconciled those who had first opposed this proceedingjMunnecessai^., to our past labour in bringing on provisions tiT this^lace : since we were thus eiiabled to k£p np ai better idlowance to the people. That consisted of half a pound of meat, with a pound of bread and a pint^f cocoa, divided into breakri»t and supper, which were regulated, in point of time, just as our travelling permitted. All game waTconSidered as ah iitra • and luxurious allowance; but what we obtained was very little. ' since it amounted but to three foxes and as many hares, with i couple of duoks. All the waterfowl had disappeared about the end of the month. . «"Vmi, iu« The boats sailed neariy alike; but being made of mahogany, proved so heavy, that it gave us great trouble to haul them up on the b«ach ; so that the whole party was required to draw up one, while even this often required the assistance of tackle. This work also proved an occasional source of great danger, as well as inconvenience, since the ice sometimes drifted down on the shore so rapidly, that ttiese boats ran the imminent risk, on those ^M^r^ * ^^^ ***'^'*" "^^ ^°"*'* ^' *''®'" *"*" * P***^" The c^t which we had thus passed consisted entirely of lime stone, often presenting precipices of five hundred feet in heieht Sl^im^r f^fjl^j: T 'f'^' ^'^^y ^»»«y •»»" "''ks of a Stream or of itaT bed: but thcife seemed never to convey water wa7ti be""^ ""? "^ "•• ■"°''- '^""=*''^- ""y ^4etaUon 4n?Ii!!;^'To'^!"" ''rV*'"*"y«ay'that<^« extremes wew 40» plyiTand 80' plus, and that the mean was 31" plus, which, re-- coornari^nT*' ' ^"*^''!^ *" *"' '^"""^''J'' ^""^^ *"»* following sparison; i839i DiV* ." ." ; : I K ■ v.- t . ^' ^ +68 4-33 + 40.87 - + 54 + 94-+ 36.51 - + 40 + 30 -t 31.33 ■ . '-m' 3I#». ,,»-4, *.--M '•■■, ■'rii 4 tw rn . re • » * A' » •* TO THS ARCTIC BSOtONb - 406' * > SgP >,^ CHAPTER LII. ./ ^^ .V l^v ysv wieiy «u the Bight of four Mack wlulea and n'anv whii> «»« • There waa no change on Sonday. sdlS « n- K 5 ?""• America, whence lohlained a 8thtTcaneWar!n,rif! fS" ?' moao-pent on one aid^ and, onf e otWr S ?i^^^^^ plate in the fixed ice. * ^° *^*"»"«« *«»ok 9<^to 15«A. The three first of these davo »•■« lib. ^I^ ^' iSw'sstSt^rp^^^^^^^ centuie ? ve?v n^JIat ?*Sent * inM;overed with solid ice, ex- i?lffi^h«~ "^S^fe*'*"'* ^^^ isthmus ne#fLeopild»s iSfSr"*'"'*''*'"^*'***^®®''^'" equally dull and uiXrm 05 the following da^ itlk. Two fozn were killlPS;! ^TW -LCBui ng a th ir iin ca s e beneath a cgwifc?^^^^ ^ ^ 'V ^I rcMhed the iiack«Hi;« nf ♦kril **u^ ."***"** ""O"* we • \ I ^cainejiack edge of the ice atJhejuncHonef Barrow's sfa^^^ || « ^11 1^ • * • "I' 406 '^\ SECOND VOTAOK much of contiiiii> present blocked ice we had, >,and not n^ontbe ugh this* ler triklf In moderate x inty-fourth, . . 'it -only re- Isth. On the next day the . camet Hhoped^to^ \-. :k Regent's inlet, afte which had been liewly. for id mass, giving niAopes advanced si thatobW w leavy i^; s#hat % were Jiough ^«|Y|ffectii#ithl8 :jninutp|||pon, a^M ice grea[tlfl|Sp If ariy on the. Ileppings. We therefore pre- to embark; and I burlik fn the same pIace,U fresh ac- ht 6f our. proceedings (^ulltotentions, with a sketch of our ^.t noon, we sailed with a frm breeze for oor return « hopie;'* and, arriving at the Cape, found%pIear, but very narrow passage, between th0 main ice and that onpiore, just allowing the boatato ^^ p^s sinijly : after which, standiAgl| thrpugh water which sheath - ed them two inchte thick with ice,'||B arrived at our former piTsi- tipq, near Elwin bay, by six o'clock. We could 4iot, however approach the^shore, and W4}re at la^^bligcd to sleep in the boats,' in H creek not &r from it, during a very raw, disagreeable nieht of .'^QOW.. , * -I , 2fl«A. Attempting to cross Elwin bay^the next morning, we wei^mikch bes^t and stopped by the floes, and were finally obttg- ed, at mid-day, to haul into a cove in the ice, when we pitched our . tent on it. itth. By. six on the following morning, thd thermome- ter nad fallen to sSero, though it rose to 20» in the day ; and we ' remained prisoners: gatkilng^ someWbat towards a dinner, in a fox and tw;o guHs. 28 we had yet seen, two/miles fros'' having but ^x feet of beach ben^ feet above us. . 29M» A s£«.. m...i. i k • which, h»w.T.r frequent th.7G*;^Sr» IS K '''"■'« "* Krimooy which *.«' ^Mta «Xi eJ^SJi'? ''" '"" «>• [ „, 0^ Jhi.. between these differ^nrbodre^ Am jr" "/' "^^^ ^^^ - Itoss, who had aiw&v» i.p^ Jk- * Amonrf them, Commander of Se hopeful, at kLt ne^y' rt" St!' ^"^k^^ ''"' ^''»'»''' inigl.t have arisen i^As m^nd dU^ t .e &':i''"''T?."''''^. f ii^^'<^'» n>y excellent friend had ni2i,cd Mv?i ♦* JT"* always d ScuU AiCisT S?l^^^^^ * pr^ress miun ^fast days of th? a^pnth, Com- r ■^'^\ . \ ' ,)". .'.) f ! 4 <* 408 SECOND TOYAOB OF OMCOVaBT mander Ross seemed to have more*tban hesitated respecting oar escape; and, on the twentieth, I must needs say » with whatever regret, 1 be^n myself to question whether we should aucceed in passing the barrier of ice this season , in which case, there could be no resource for us but another winter, another year, I should say, ' on Fury beach , if, indeed, it should be the fortune of any one to ■arvive after another such year as the three last If it was the fruitless attempt to cross the strait on the twentieth which had brought my mind to this state of feeling, the effect was not to be indulged; nor did my opinions ^nd in any degree to alter my resolution as to our conduct, or rather as to my own, respect- ing the nien Under my charge. While there^ was the remotest ^ chance for us, it was my duty to persevetv, as far and as long at ., least as I should be justified by the state of our provisions : since, if we should be obliged to leave our boats at the furthest point .^ where wo could succeed in pimping them, -We should be Obliged to travel back, eighty miles, over a road so rug|^d that it would ne- ^ cessarily occupy a very l^mg time, and, with that^ induce a great ^ consumption of our stores; which we could not afford to have in* creased beyond what we had actu>|lly taken, from the great labour of transport and our very limited means of carriage. . ft\ Having, as I already noticed, left the chest jaf minerals near ' ii notable cairn, as being too heavy for us to carry further, I must here point out its latitude as 73^ 5i'; that having been deduced \ X \,\-\% ^y, >; ".!- •H' |V longitude is 90° west, it occupies the place at which I had marked Croker*s mountain, in 1818. ' I can therefo^have no doubt that the land on which I Aow stood Was the same that I had seen in my first voyage, and which I had been able to observe very distinVU^y from the vicinity of the mountain to which I theh gave the name of Hope^s monument. '' ' ^ Since that period, it has been considered as belonging to what have been termed Leopold's islands ; thus receiving a new name which I cannot admit. I must therefore restore to it ^hat one why;h I originally conferred, and in assuming a right granted to all discoverers, reclaim, of course, tbie right also of discovery over g land of which I then took possession. Since this spot is alio a portion of the mainland, and not that island which .has heen^ as- serted, in the more recent voyage to vWhich I have thus referred, it is equally my duty to point out that the discovery of the nor^^gB^t cape of tiie American continent thAs'jbelongs to myself, and fo the original voyage which I made to those pil^em seas. Finally, in thus restoring the original designatioja-of this spot, I must o|aally assert my right to establish every thii^ else connected w^ll it, as it itands in my own charts, and tberefoi^^ re[dace tiie names which I then conferred on several objects in its vicinity. V • ^ A tf m TO THS ^^IC RSOIOKS. 409 Inthus speakine on thia subject, I must not be accused of ego- ffl^ of an ambition for insignificant fame. It is the cause of l^?-^ 7^*°n' °^ every di^verer, at least, which I am pleading. It IS butan&iall reward which ever falls to their share, in recom- f^w^A^Jr^ hardships and hazards; and if they are thus to be robbed of Oie onTy name and fame they can ever hope to obtain, the effect will be to check their ardour, in addition to the injustice thus committed. The injury inflicted on Columbus by the ignorance, neglec , and torpidity of the world, is an example to be shunned not followed: and though the greatest of modern discoveries cannot bear the most remote parallel to his, it must not be forgotten that it :/l« t- Tf^ ?*?"» however^small, is equally his right, and that It 18, to himself, not less precious than the repute of greater deeds is to him who holds a loftier position in the world's eye. ^ I he circumstances under which we were now placed, served also to p?]oire another point. bearing essentially on my voyage of 1818, and on the discussions to which it afterwards gavte rise, the fact! indeed, was but too surely proved for our safety or hopes/it would f !r J? ^. '^"®'' ?'■ "' ** P"^®^"*' •"«* that been falsi which I had asserted to have been then true; had Barrow's strait been inca- pable of freezing; had it never been, and was never to be, frozen over, as has been most confidently asserted of kte. It was now frozen, or at least had hithert^Ken so, durine the preceding winter and^e present summer, even im^tothis time, into a solid sea, from Admiralty inlet to Cn^&l iJHHid this i« precisely what I found it to be in IftM. I have equBmde doubt from the state of things With us during all the yeareof our present detenUon, that this had been its condition during tiie whole period- while there are even proofs of tiiis, in the endeavours of tiie Whaler^ topeneti^te into Lancaster strait, and in the failQres which tiiev experienced. ^ . , > ■r. If the assertion which I have thus controvertfed is therefore untrue, so are there collateral facts to prove tiiat tiie condition of this strait in 1818 must have been what I then represented it to b^ It had been a calm season, being tiie most unfavourable weather for • navigating tiiese seas, since it is only through^j^^of tiie winds that the ice cart be opened and dispersed, as»n3H8|Pare indebted to tiie northerly gales of summer fwr whateverprogress they canV make. In tiiat;sumiher there was but one gale while we were on^ this part of the coast, lasting two days; and as tiiis was from the south, not the north, its effect was to bring up tiie ice instead of dis- persing It, so as to ensure tiie result in question. If not to have produced It. Thence it w/is, that when we arrived off Lancaster sound on the tiiirty-fir^t of August, the pack of ice was still to the northward of it; while that on the soutii ^ide was, beyond all doubt, in the same stote tiiat we now found it, forming a solid unbroken ^" I V . 1 '-f ,\ A :i I' -I ■ t. ■ .-• V V 1 V',-: -'S 'Vf -^i^- .-^■s- ^ i ; < 8KC01ID VOTAftB OV DISCOVERT *»?ir^«*» "ide to side of the alrait, which neither ship ipuM peinetrate. ^ . 'wring the last days of our detention in this pljice, when, in addi- tion to what we ^lieved the jippossibility of succeeding in our attempt to leave this country, it Jiad fai;ther beeome doubtful whe- ther the state of the ice would allow, us to return to Fury beach, or even to surmountji small part of the way to this only h6pe that **?".'*"i^2JiyBiBil'*"**!^'» ''"d become truly serious, not simply critica|jjPWt"M' iiied #the3wenty.fifth of September for our departure, should the sledges be then ready, and, from that date we had but ten days* provisions leftist half allowance, vtMle we had' not fuel enough remaining to melt the snow whiclTwould be required for our ijonsumptioto of wateft thus did our arrival at Batty bay turn out to be a most providential circumstance, as there^ were, from this point, but thirty-two miles of direct distance/ remaining; a line whidi all the intricacies and obstructions of th^ route could not well Increase to more ^an forty. % ■ At this time it was, that we began to experience the greateit suf- ferings we had yet endured from th6 cold. We had been unable to carry With us pur usual quantity of clothei and of cantas, so that we were most fa want of protecUon fromjthe weathw wh^n we w6re least able td bear up aeainst its aever^ There' was nli^ow the employment that would have aided liiWresist it, by kee action; and perhaps, still worse, the diminution of our hokj the latter days of this month tended to diminish that dher^*^ ^^"^}^y which, assuredly, the animal heat is maintained, effect of the exciting, and, reversely, of the depressing passioipMB .the h^t-generaUng power, cannot fail ta,|f known to everfone^ ®!fiS^?®'i5°* *° medical tofin alone, atlough they may not ex- prRB tra^r knowIedg|in the «ame terms, and perhaps may not even ^ve ttotfded the facfetill pointed out; and while it ought to be W®*?"f*!y'^"*'**'°n with every officer having charge of rilBh m these frozen climates, to maintain the spirits and hoiws of his men, so may Ijidd it to those rules and precautions which I for- merly laid down on this juBject Be all this as it may, we were Y ^®^7 Wi* "^ r«||' miserable; and from what I have for- 'S* merly ^^ 6^^y a^m constitution, I l»v^ utaiion to believe, that wM^r my^WBfferipgs mffit Jiale been, every one of the party ^Mmiigpfeifb-miserablycolifthah myselC The prospect ;*.befor^^m Ifecase of being oblfgf^ to return, was even worse; unler*^^'^'' *•• "^ ' — ii . ... » with *^ * n ^5^* V*^*^* *^"'** ®*'"**^P "■ *° accom'plTsh Jiis undertaking Duri«t the latter part of this month our siiibcess in procurine foxes and ptarmigans had b^n considlrable; and while our whole ^ pfirty was not so largess to prevent this supply from being of real € % t t I a ■ e S tl V n C( U le w to hi 01 di M bi an KslSm m ■ ■ m ^€?- u ■ , -:^ .-;/;).: ^\: .K'** C->- • '»'■ «v :J>>. TO THS ABCTIC BKOIONS. ■■:' 1 i 411 use, so did It form a valuable addiUon,both in quantity and qualitv to our much, too scanty stock of provisions. There was great reason to dread the effect of a narrotv diet on the men: not merely on their health or strength, but on their very lives. All of u.^ had already suflered from this a| various times; but the chances of irremediable evil were mcreasing every day. A review of the weather showed this to have been the coldest September which we had recorded* ,» fact which 1 attributed to the permanence and proximity of the great bodies of ice and snow which surrounded us, and especially to the total want of that^oflSF sea which has always such an influence on the temperature. This month had been noted for the tranquillity of the winds, and thence was there no cause adequate to the disruption of the ice. Tho" wholtthnd, also, ever since the middle of August, had been entirely coyeriB with snow, so that, but for the appearance of the sun, every thing bore the aspect of deep winter. .. ^ Having formerly noUced the necessity which compelled us to leave at North-east Cap6 the largest collection of minerals which we had made, I may now add, that I afterwards pointed out the spot to Captain Humphreys, of the Isabella, with the hope that he might Have reached that place in the succeeding summer, and thus put me pnce more into possession of the materials whence I might have drawn up an account of the geological structure of this country. While this sheet was preparing for the press, that collecUon arrived; butrtis a subject that 1 am compelled to refer to the Appendix, among the other matters appertaining to science and natural history. / ■ ; i 5 H ,6 , ' ■■'■■•I -4jl ■K^ ^ i^ >wmmmm0P'- ft. I ( 1. 4It JMBCOND VOTAOB OF UISCOVBBV <^ CHAPTER LIII. ■i Continuation of our travelling southward in October— Return to Fury Beach— Establish ourselves at Somerset House for the WinterSummary qf this Month— Journal and Sum- mary qf November and December. Oct. la/, 189«. Thebe Wa« a very heavy fall of snow on'thisday, and the thermometer rose from 2ero to 10*. A strong north-west breeze made no impression on the ice, which now covered the Whole sea, living it the same appearance as in the depth of winter. It was the work of the wholes j^ay to dig a way through it for the boats, and to haul them upon the beach above high water-mark. 2d, The carpenter began to make sledges out of the empty bread casks; and his chips became very welcome fuel, serving to cook a couple 6f foxes in aid of our short commons, which, during the whole pf this expedition, had been distributed into two meals, breakfast and. supper. That work Was not finished till the foflrfhi amid very heavy snow; when they were loaded with our tents and whatever else might be wanted at Fury beach. There could be no Iprther hope of getting back there in the boats: and thence I had originally det^mincdtp leave, them here for the next year's jase; and to proceed with sledges in the best mjanner that we could. ^ We found this attempt almost insuperably difficult; and the whole protply cold night, but fortunately escaped frost-bites. In the morning, one of our three sledges being broken, we were.compelled to leave here some stores; taking nothing but the provisions, tents, and beds, on the other two, and thus having # _,.!.. J ^F- I n ■■■-., I; ■ 7. TO TM ABTro >i«IORi. ■/ . 413 "tronger parties to draw them than On the precediHJr djy; We thu« S .TJn'"'.''?" *''•■ '^«y:-i«r"«y' !»; »pite & /.trong cold ;Wind aiid feonstant aivpw, and wei^ enabled to carry the mate iaylQr,by returmngfor him with on empty sledge. Burdened and tof l^h^ r ^^ '''^'^^ ^f ?' *''" ^" « K^-t a to accbfrtmodate ^bWor^« "mwned: behind, who were to return as soon as pos! C;5^mu!t&- — niatter. which could not be bro^t . ^ ^^S?^ our house occupied bv a fox, which soon made its S.n^.fc''?I5^''?I'"«^"l"**^**^^^^ last morsel at breakfast, the ^S 2 Vt^^^r"** i.* 8°<^J«eaV which, however, the imprudent to tr^ Kv.''^ without suffering. Two of the men wei5 found ^i?r/™ft'l'*®S.""'l' **'»'* "^e" deeply cut in the leg. mJ^l J— ^Jk ff r •"« ^»y ^'"^"•*«» employment for the Sr/hL ♦. Fif '""^ **^ ''®?8es and their shoes, for another journey. • ti^S! ?„H^' L^'^^yg^feA-endered air out-of^oor work impracl iSh^t ^^ our>ouse was fn great .danger. But it had such an evert li*nVT'*^'^**"'**° "** ** »" "°*^°* *« -««h » degree, that every atom of bay ice near us was demolished by the floes and a large space of water opened to the northeast ^ ' vp7n^nl^f''°°*'°"!*' °" *"* eleventh; and as our housewas not yet prepared for a win ef so severe and premature, we suffered con- Jev'o';dU"""'iS;"rJ*'''^'°« """•''^ *° "•"« °"^ sleeping pC wwS^^*.d wf i"*' T ^'^''•«'^^ and many larg^iSecfsot ice whi«(nt5e had left here when we went away, were floated off. -- d!L f ,[1"'*2^'"« J"?*'?? thestorm was at its highest; the ^-JS J* *°f»":!? ^^^ ^'^^ '^"'•^d off the remainder of the Tce.to the southward, with great velocity, while much water kmiX"l^vl'':JS*"'*l!*" That'was now unless: amZthS miTif nhSr f 'l!?. I'u" ''"*' "* *" *•'»«' »* '^w ''h«t « «ngle hour might obliterate bllihe next autumn. * - / \\ ...^ \ *'-' - '> ..-J V''-:i -.: ^ ■ V '(H -SECOND VQYAOE OF BlSCOVfiRY 13/A. There was no cessation to th^ most uncommon storip: after promising to lull about noon, it blew harder than ever; andithe ca|i- vas roof being too weak to bear it, the snow gained admission to our • ^ beds, and evefy thing was frozen. We had great difficulty in keep- ing ourselves warm by crowding rqunfl the stove: but had the good > fortune to take three foxes in the trap: a matter now beginning to be ^subject of great congratulation. l4thto 17/ A. We had the same lu^ck on the next day, but there -, was no difference in the weather on tHig and the followitagpne, nor, . on the sixteenth, till noon, when it moderated, and the men were able to work outside in covering the roof with some of the Fury's • ' running rigging. On the next day^ it was good enough to permit the men to set off with the sledges to the place, twenty-five miles off, where some of our stores had been deposited. J 18th to 21«if.^he thermometer sank- to ininu»2°, b^t t^er6 was , nothing else to mark these^ three days. On the twenty-first, CoiA- mander Ross's party retlirned, bringing every thing except the tents, ^which Ij^ad been left at the last stag^. 'Among the rest was'oj^r other stoVe, which was ininiediately prepared for use. 22dto27th. The ice that hs^ opened, no#v closed the bay, as was foreseen, and the ^herttioineter fell to minus 10°. The^additional . stove, however, now kept our house even warmer than we wished, ' sinte we could raise it to 51°. A sni^ wall, fpur feefe thick, was ^biiilt rQjuhd hi and further spars and ropes were applied to support 't the.rdiDf, for' the purpose qfij^overing it with snow. Ai|pntiDuance of^siorqis on Jhe three following days rendered ill wo^ in^racti- ..,. ticaWe. On i^.e last days of this week it was iailderj arrd v^^ere '^^ able to continue our operations. ' * ' iiSth. iJivine service was renewed pn this day, |fikf^a longer efeteatioh th^h jvas agreeable to our feelings, and aftei' a f^jjjlMrrgrr' ' . . oi\e than was right: But for thi^ there was no help; it wj^SH^ if i*" those who neglect this ^uty at home dould find excuses mctSBw- * After this> the men haS their JUst dinner oii fulljdlqwance, U itn^ became necessary to retrench; We found a roasted fox to be a very • good. dish. Thus' at least we then thought: J inlagi^e that hungry ,r \men,^o not much fttend to. flavour, or, as the moraUsts have told ds, ^that hunger flavoflrs all nreats. I haye had ipkfiQn to doubt, sipce my return .to the beef ^and mutton of Engr^pd^^and tq t^e dingers of « GTrocenj' Hafi," whether I mi^t not havwiverrated the flavour of - ^ fox; and I suspect, too^ that even Barney Laughy,'though educated. : . oiTporridl^ and notlLtoes, has made the same discovery., , Ak,* ;^99tA to 3lst. It blew hard ort^hc twenty-ninth of this month, and increased to a heavy gale, on the three folio wing ^.ta^bLT^f **'';'n^ We therefore felt ver| thankffia7we " StinsXy"'''^^"'^^^^'"^^^^^ . ,"?V".S«°»s;'-»cted our house pwviously wa^alsoa i^iWWi.- - I dent al circumstance; for. defective as it was, it could noSebeln £^r^^ ir '* "^'1 r-"Vand indeed befo^ uS IZl T been done at all, we must bave sB&red severely; but what We had fow sZentt'!' 1^'^^^' •> the stor6 of ^ovbils stnl^*^ I we reflect on the various cinnimstanc6s which have, a*itwerfe,exeL • edtheniselves to prolong our lives, we cannot but offer up our hum\ ^'^ blq .acknowledgments to the Great J)isposer of events. • ^ ' " \ _ JJirst, I may enumerate the loss of the Fury, by which accident >*^ ' S^wforVft rrr^.^^''^ '^^^ «»e,t* the rJitiJ/of the jS^^^^ ^ ?XlSi'I""*5'*'^'f '''^ "^* have feturned: fourthly, thTlu. ry's boats, Sfter having been carried off irithe storms of i^inter * ^ dS3L??i«»Tr\'!.°''" """ *^" ««™^ P'»«=«' without any material ' «??lfe ^^ ^t*'^' ^^^ ««?n8t»-uction of ahabitation in sum««r to • ^ ^^^t ^ere^bW mercifully permitted to return. W' *° Mr. Ihom now inspected and took an account 6f the reiiiains of ' Ijrovisions; namely, of the flour, sugar,, soups, peas, vS ^ gretted to find, thj^t of the present pi^served nieatL theTwL nni yiore th.« would sqA^e for Sur voya^inS bits durr/g the nex . noSi**' '*''^°* *° ^^^ P^*^"* ••*^'°"»' **>« men were allowed, alter- ^ n^tely, pea-smjp, with onfe made of fcarrots and turnips%ut of the * ^rtolrJ-^' r'r\°' •"•^^^^which we couirnornQw-fut ^''h nish to a sufficiept extent, they were provided With duniDline*of ' compuirory substitute. They wer^indeed, sufficiently fed sinri» '' ^ ^ : our return t^is plaj*^ Our present allowance in meat, indeed, *^ ^^ li r ■ '■*!#■■ •f'i 4^ "j.4 I' #: -^ --;-. :.^^-. ■'**.: I ■** f 'hi \ ■ -i 'f i » •.<■' ".if- , . 4' ^■;'>-^ >'ii .416 * -*' >. ^ ■h , SpeOND' VOYAGE OF WI^QVBilTj, I ^was a pound in the day: while it was settled that the short rations should begin on the first of November. ■/ , i, • u The storms of this month, by breaking up the ice m Prince Ke- gent's inlet, and driving it down Baffin's bay, must have been ol great service; but the low temperature was agamst us. Taylor, Laughy, and J. Wood,- were on the sick list. We began to keep regular watch, and register the thermometer every two hours. ^ Nov. Ist to 2d. It still blew a gale from the northward, which did not intermit till the Saturday night; and though the sky was clear, the snow-drift was so thick that we could see nothing, and no one could venture out A good deal of open water was seen after this storm, and the thermometer fell to 18* minus On Sunday it was .comparatively moderate, and, at night, became at len^ calm. 5th and 6th. The snow-wall was finished; a^d the i«e, under a west wind, clospd in on the shore. By throwing water on the walls, and poifiting the joints-with wet snow, it b^/^ame quite impervious to cold. On the seventh, the thermometer mmk to 35* minus; and a strong breeze sprung up, ending in a gale vrith drift snow at night, which continuing on the next day, lasted all the following; the ice driving to the southward, and opening much clear water to the north. - ^ »«■ 1 •. ■ I nth. to '\5th'. Sund^ was calm and cold. On Monday it blew hard, with drift snow; still moving the ice and opening morMraterr- Nor did it change on the ne*t day, while the thermometer fell 37° minus. The sun was in the hdrizon on the fourteenth, and was seen _ for the last time on the fifteenth. There was no cRaftge W the wea- ther, except an unexpected rise of the thermometer to minus lO**. ^^ l^th. The gale became worse than ever, and there was now clear water as^far as we could see to the north-eastward, which, on the iiixt day, was entirely frozen over and covered with snow. On these day^ of confinement there hdd been abundant work within, in fitting up the bed places, and in constructing and supplyj^g a venti- lator. The good effect of this contrivance was immediately felt, m its carrying ofl" the vapour. ' K - " . On Sunday the eighteenth, the weather had moderatedj^ but it wa«, hazy on Monday, becoming calm on the next day. Thus ;t continued till a wind rose from the eastward, but not so as to render the work ot the men, out of doors, in constructing k snow passage, impracticable. 2lst. We saw a second wolf on thlfwlay, which was fired at, but not killed, since it was afterwards seen, wounded, but still able to es- , cape. The men were imprisoned till Saturday ni|^t, and the ther . mometer,Was then at 13" mii\il8. . i » 25th ta 36m. Sunday did not admif of walking after divmeser- . vice. During all the remaind^ of thi« m&nth, the ice conti|j#d in motion, under a .west wind, fwid moderate weather. The n^ "'. ■ • ■ ■'■ '^- ii. • . ■ .' ml: : :t IV' ,. * ■ t. clear, no one ter this it was ■ V » inder a 5 walls, :■ ■"■ ervious s; and t night, the ice 1 to the ; ■ >■ it blew ne u^ " rine ser- ij^iul^in he a^D i \ »" ■ ; - « ♦ "" ■■■, .; "— -r---^- - ■■ • - ., F,'». '• K" . TO THB< AHCTIC BE«IONS. ;'X. 417 * ttSus 32«r°''''*°** ^^ thermimet^r at th^end of November The first part^f the abstract of this month, which I shall ^ive. relates to the te4erature. The extremes were 8- and 370 miiu? fnthJ'r*" " 5^*°™'°"'iH'<^^*° »««*«» that at P^ m the correspondmg month of 1834, «."uwcu This month had bewi^ stUl more rem'arkable than the precedine " for the constant succ^^on of ptorms by wjiicK it had been disS ' gmshed, and for being the only ^orember.o.^J««f i'Thichlhe / thermometer never rose abtA^e zero. The maSumVasTminu^ ' and the mean temperature not l^ss than-19io below thlt of thTS ' belore, and 15J« lower than in the November of 1824, at Port!l t^nZh* •; * T^however,.higher tfi^n at Melville island, in lSf9^* though itmustbe remarkedofcat tlfs is in 2Jo of latitude furih^r;- ■ ;f TJ-® open water had been seen to a great extent durin^he calfes ' During this very severe month, ii,e men, not having clothinfr to withstand the cold, could seldom work in he operS: tot we S ength succeeded in making our house tolerably cLfoSblvsHha^ - walls ThTrfi? Z' of";- "'°"r?> ^rP;'"S ^^-' the e;;cToS,g wans. Where It was, of course, beloVir the freeaine nointvaswere our cabins. The men jiad lach a bed place with I cS botTom and a thrummed mat for a bed; wWle in addiuTt^rESA" wp were about to m^ mats as furfiier co|rering8. ^^^*^"'^^***^*»' . .Our system of ii^tit^ dbuld not bd'clShged, f6r want of JTeanSi ' miT^J^::'^''' '?' wished; but .he-men did Ifsfm t/ m£ * and ThoL? t.?5r' ""I ^^ ^'^^^ Taylor, the lame . . =:^sS^rS» ^^^ th^^M w,. .o.te^^^^^ be/^c^'S,^«If''^;S"'^iT^^^ the beginning of Decern.. ' oer, exceptth^t Sunday, the secdnd, was a ve# stormi' day and th 1 ^' vira'tTh?S°". ^ 'T""'' ^-^^^^^^^^^^ me last .year ^t the sam^date. Hence, on td.SaturdaV nieht there *,rm Xl'£; " ";!;' °<"*='to-.°» May, but 6ed.n,e a Berfett • «(.rn, rfter tlHBi „„|d„^.on withliltle change till the twelfth, whoi. . r .;.-- .-...■... .'Cv;:- %«■. •, ...•:/ V ^: « '. • ' 'I / » ; i' Ut.- ". •' . A14. «.. y..- .4 V J^. ■ r :.■ .■.;-i- .- ■ h C! *. .■'' * , • • , ' • i '•( . - -'ir ■ II •, %f . ' 1 • .*•'.. . V. ■' . . ;J. 418 SECOND VOTAOa OF DXSCOVKBT /-. it fell calm; yet only to return: haying produced more (Mjbn water than we had yet seen, which was nevertheless covered with floating pieces of ice, and soon became sheeted witn a new formation of the same now to be expected substance. The thirteenth was calm and clear, and the weather was mibderate; while, after a gale on the fourteenth, the vfeek ended with calm Weather, and with thetem> perature at 24". « 16th to 22d. The men were able to walk on Sunday, after service; and the weather, having become clear, continued moderate, and 'un- marked all the rei;t of the week; when the thermometer fell to 43o, being the greatest degree of cold we had^y^t experienced, lliiree ,or four foxes had been taken in the trap at different times. \ x .23d to 25tA, It blew fresh oh the Sunday and Monday, so as t(H prevent th^ men from going out;, but. a fox having been taken, served for our Christmas dinner, while the men received full alldw- j: ance of meat for that day, though for them as for us, there was no- thing to dnn|: but snow water. No change of weather worthy of note took plaice onwards HLill the end of the month, noir did any*\ thing occur among ourselves to' make one day differ from another^ ' or diminish tne weariness of that uniformity to which we were now tied. The month and the year ended su£Sciently cold, since it . was again at the freezing point of mercury. ■ In the pourse of this month it blew hard during most days, and always fi'om the north and north-west; in consequence of which the iee was kept in violent motion. Open water was seen through all the month; and, on the last day of the year, it was visible from the , beach as /ar as the eye could trace to the north-nortfi-east ' The mean temperature of the month had been i° below on any record;^ and the cold was very severely felt by us iir our frozen habitation; but by increasing the mass of snow and ice on the out- side, a^ ^y flooring the house, we made ft more comfortable. Half a dovaii^ foxes were taken, and afforded us an excellent meal on Sun-* days and on Christmas day; which was the 6rst that we had spent wit|[eut tasting spirits i>r wine: these luxuries .having been now uj^riy exhausted, ^8 they had long been set apart for those periods of ifi^ale which a seaman does not easily resign, and ought not to to be allowed to forget Thomas, the carpenter, was now the only person on the sick list, and it was a matter of considerable regret to me, not less on his account thaii for the interests of all of us, and the credit of our medical treatment, that the scurvey und^r whicfl^ now' at length^uffered, did not yield to our great specific^ lime-juice, which really seemed to if it had lost its anti-scorbutic virtues, though the fault probably lay in the increase of the causes of this disease. The aurora bor^aKs had been aeen but seldom, and was incon- ^ ' i«. ^0f * J' ^ f ■ » 1 A- 1%" ■ ■^. 4' ».' . jp^ — V* "-i*- - . . , - -^' *• '., ^'/ '-\^-^. water . Dating < • of the * m and in the »tem- irvice; td'un- . 43S , ThJreev j.aatcH >■-';? taken^ alldw- ' 1 u rio- thyof d anyN othiar^ ^ were inceit . s, and ch the gh all >m the n any frozeti e out- Half 1 Sun-' spent 1 now erjiods not to I only ;ret to idthe -juice, iiough ase. mcon- 1 .1. si f-i ft :■ f .^ :>■ ". \ *0i THE. Aict^ BSelOIIS. 3H' -I ,^!5^hae:i lilii 419 ;J>|^icuoi^.^q^uidis posiuoQ was generally opposed „ *"°* u?"^^?" ®°** "^^^^ *•»« flun^fiary of this iaonth,4he"weathCT vanabte and severe as it Jiad been, Became calm and cSrTouS c^^dUuisdidweten^ « 7 ' ,^ i> , r •» /. / ? i^ ' I . ^---' -* ^ > • *i • q « 1 t. «k r ^ _» — xn t> 1 PjV.SM'*^' . U I* « . ^ '% « 'it • 4 " i 1 li>,. •7 U 'tA-ilMV 1 I 1f ^^. 430 S£CONO V07AOE Of DISCOIUIBT is-jS' t f. " The Journals of- January, Febr^^ar^ and March, with their \. respective Summaries — Death amkFuneral of the Carpenter. ' Jan: 1st to 6th, 1833. |Pdr New-year's feast was like tHat of Christmas-day. The rein^inder of the week was fine, and the peo- ple w«re able to take exercise every day. The temperature ranged between 33° and 38*'. 6fh to 12th. "A breeze came on Supon unday, with snow-drift; and the sea, which had been covered with new ice, broke up. It moderated next day; but, on Tuesday, blowing hard with the ther- mometer at 43°, it was intoleii^bly cold. The temperature rose a little the following day, but went down to 44° on the tenth. Prida;^ and Saturday were both stormy, with the ice in violent motion; and the result of this gale was to raise the temperature to 26°. 13th to 19th. This Sunday was marked by a perfeet storm; yet it moderated on the next day, and still more so on the following dttes, so that we could again go out during^l the remainder of the wWk; the thermometer, which had not been very low in compari- soim being then at 31°. \ 20/A to 26th. Sunday ended with a gale atid drift snow, which continued the following day, and left the ice in motion on Tuesday. The weather was uncertain all the rest of the week, with- strong breezes and calms./ On Saturday the sun should have been visible for the first time; but the snow-drift deprived us of the sight: and this week produced nothing else to note. ' 2'Jth to 29th. It blew so hard on the first days of the vnsHt, that we could not go out. The twenty-ninth was a very fine day; and the upper limb of the sun appeared at a quarter after eleven; ''showing three-quarters of the disk above the horizon at noon, and setting at half after one. It was the first time that we had seen it during seventy-four days. On the thirteenth, the thermometer rose to 11°, and |(he month was ended with it at 4°; being a great change ■ within a very short space. ■ * . . This month began, and continued for ten days with such TO THE ABCTIC K 481 : severity that it promised to be t|e coldeat on recdrd^ IfimDroved however about the middle, so ttat the meaii te J^VaturrC Joo , inmus, while the extremes were minus 40andlE4«' Never- theless our habitation was .Very cold and n|serable; while Tn attempting to warm ourselves on one side, we Sere frozen o«'fh» c^posite and were otherwise more than eiough^l'arUd;^^^^^^ J| want of books or other occupatiqn, and the impossibility of taking exercise out of doors, ^e crev^ with 4he exertions fotmerry no? noh^r'^^ «^ but,of.the carpenter'8Tecovery,therJwas „r?{}*' '**;'*• J^e weather confined us for the first two days of February,- but Sunday was fine, as was the next day; a violent gale comjng on upon the fifth-, which, after another^ peaceful dWv ^S''-.,f" the seventh, freezing the mercury, and continu „?fo faiibg'to 4!^:** '^ *'"/'"• of the week, th; thermometer tC 10th to 16th. The carpenter being now in a hopeless state an" ra^mrha^;:^^ hJd t^::^^^ - -^^^ - ^^ -^PecV^Xf^ * r««?hnt"?nW Z^A^ "^ }u^ subsequent week the weather was mode- rate but cold; and on the twenty^second^the carpenter. Chimham Thomas, was interred with the usual s^mnity. ^H wSs not eaJv nevertheless, to read the service out of doors, the them^meterZ' joe at 45". while the o-i-ftimH «,oa «« i,»-j «u_* ' i._ , ^"""'"«er pe- V k IWHB * ■ * • ■ ---- ... ,- „ scurvy, in addition to a worn out constitution. It was the first of our losses, however, which could, in any fairness, be atSuted to Ir'i'r'i^ and ourpeouliar situation: .the first man who died could scarcely have lived longer at home; nor was the death of the Xr. one that cou-ld have been delayed long, any where. > ' 1 he^temperature rose suddenly from minus 36° to 6° and then reached zero, falling again to 23- till the end of the month The first change gave us som^e hopes, but\these did not last. In the .weather, which was variable bu^ moderate, there was nothing to There is ^nothing wirprising, »s there is no noveltv, in the retro- spect of February. It could not have been much wL^and iTwas satisfactory that it had not been worse, bad as it was. What thi weather had proved I need not repeat: but as the tem^rature is J^! was 32.87° minus; as that in the preceding Februaries were re- _S«*M» Wire plus 6°, and minus S,**" V ■Ir" f- T ■1 W (%•*: - .-. Jv ;%!K;'f..,r-,- i:n^.;-:.,r;.#-. 'm , ■,' ■.• . ♦. ■•««■ ■'. •-•• N 4^3 , SECOND VOlTAOE OF DISCOVERT X ■'W .'i ..*^''>, The chief ey,eht was tJ^t of the death of the carpenter, Thomas; which, apart from "any regi;et for' a worthy and useful man, the more painful vvhea we looked round on all, saw the decided illness of some, and could not easily avoid anticipating what our own fate might be, was a very serious loss; since his assistance could scarcely fail to be required hereafter, in the reparation of the boats, and in > such other matters as belonged to his profession. Respecting him- self, I need only note the excellent character he had acquired, in the navy, before he joined us: but, to compensate any pain that might have been felt under the inripression that this expedition had been fatal to him, we knew that his constitution^ad been much impaired by long service, especially on the American lakes and in the Bir- mese wan His age was forty-eight; and at that time of life, a sea- man who has served much is an aged man, if he does not chance to - be worn out ■ -^t^ — ~: Vt^t^-tt' ; " '• , '"~ — ' My own condition, from the state of ancient wounds, brought into troublesome action by that tendency to scurvy which displayed itself in no other very marked way, was, at this time, somewhat threatening. I had now, indeed, some reuibn to suppose that I might not be ultimiately able to surmount all the present circum- stances; in which case, I know not that my anxiety for the fate of those who might not have very well guided themselves when I was no longer present to aid them, was not much greater than any thing 'which 1 felt on xpy own account. The state of the ice could not have been worse than it was at the. end of this BMBth, and the hills were entirely about the ][)lace of our compulsory residence, that our miserable abode was almost hidden by it, like the snoyv hut of an Esquimaux in winter: and,^as to our^cpurse of life and feelings, these are tMi^ which poetry might tell once, but which neit|ier poeii^ ner vmse can repeat forever, with the hope that any one can listen, and understand, and feet. March 1st. March, began with a heavy jrale ^of wind and drift -maow, so that we could not see fifty yards on. The roaring of the fee was terri&r; and, on the ft>llowing day, the temperature fell once ipore to minus 40°, proceeding till it reached 43°, sm the fourth. vIRiera jsas no cessation of this gale till the sixth, when open water was " isible to a gr^t extent. Two reindeer were seen on Hoe seventh, which ^e considered very early in the season, add on the two fol- *iowing days ttie temperature was 25". ^ 10/ A. On Suaday it blew hard from the BOtttMMK, and '1^ t^W- mometer, to om* great surprise, rnir to plus 1°. reaching 5** onfthe .foliowing day. On the twelfth, the water closed, and no more was sfen this week; when it Cell calm Qn Saturday night, having blown a hard gale during the two preceding days. ~: Vltk and IS/A. It was calm and snowy, with the thermometer at UM& 4°, b^i on & wdi^ aad Monfiijr, The a w wad dwl^^ ^.-4 . I'M- • ■•- c It *■* - ^.M ■'" f _ ^ --■ -t ''■■.■;:». '?■ ■' ' ' IJl fSffB TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 483 rseason was seen feeding at a crack in the ice nupin- «ii ♦»,.. „„T/!° *."l"l!'>' "tays of March were unnsoally severe- the chanm on the ninth was great and sudden, but did not prove duraBteffi r„V«CJ:s5'"''^h""=,^''°'"' ""= «t,^"e7haTbt„ fit" i«-7 ui. P. ^- ^"® ga'es were exceedinelv severe ami th^ tren^Jy confined^* «:h ?^^^ '.V"-''" Pr^P^^'-^^ '"""th, been Jxl n^TST '^^"'^"fd; and -thus the impossibility of takine exercise andfhe ineSfl ^^^^'^^^ employment, shjrt allowanfe of food,' ;5^.5?e inevitable lowness of spirits produced by theurdlofcen siX to .Sucet SftS' uniform^^L of snoi alTd it c' mbitd in m« «u A * ^^^^ °^ ^^''y ^^tJ'fferent health. Mr. Thorn was . in,my oW wouhds were^very troublesome, and two of he seamen d^rerove" ^°"' '" %--vy,that we were afraid th:;rulS On thir account more than or^^ny bther, we bad reason to lament 5; as It was lorig, too, ere we could hope C^hl^r?^aUf Srli"^' -^ u- ---g>^oo.ere we could hope lor tlie arrival of the summer birds, to allow us to add some f resK • - TwlTr^ttl ^1|S^*»''^" but three foxes and tw^ STret n A^fhl «?J^ f J. 5ife^ ^""'^^ amounted to nothing.- ^*L 5 • ^u"* "^ '^'"^^^^ ^ '^^^ «'^a"l5es that had takeS place under ^hega^es,theicewas,o:,S:ugh-that it wa? impassaWe on sledls and even on foot No aufora borealis had been seen- and inS we had scarcely noticed one the whole winter ' ' ^ ^' We ^^e indeed all very weary of this miserable home It had tr^to wt?r/r ^''^""< r «"' ''^^^hed it; becauseTwas a conl trast to what had been, much worse. It had received usXfati^S SelTre't 't^'''' and iT at least promised us coi^arS C ^d ?or a Im^i ^' ""^^J^y °f this feeling had long bein worn y^tSor Li ^ ^A "Jw' ?^ ^I'y' '^^'^ been almost .without' variation or mark; each dull«r than its predecessor, and the niirht returning onlyto tell ^^that another such day wotdd come to. morrow. Even the stoi^wer* v^thout variety, amid theTternrf. sameness of snow and ice: there was nothing to Se^out tf doora even^ when we could face the sky; and, withih, it was to S equa% for variety and employment, and to find neithe.?' I? S of the least active minds dftsed tfway their tim« in the wakine s^^ lortunate of t hnMi l tir Those ampng us, who had fhc enviable if I ' ' » I i\ }^'K itmi"-- '■ \\\ • "^^ > SECO*(D VOT DISOVEBT i=' talent of flreepiog at all times, whether they were anxious or^nbt* %ed b \ That manjr wishes were turned Upwards our own English home, cannot be doubted: but it was unreasonable to indulge regret where there was nothing of which we could accuse ourselves; and they vvhb looked forward, could feel that there was enough of exertion bJefore them to demt^nd all their spirit, and at least hope enough to -jiustain those spirits till the "t^e should come to bring them into action. Another month would pass in the daily approaching pros- pect of moving: within one more, we might be in motion; and if June must still be a term of struggles and hopes, the month of July might find us in Baffin's bay. After all, I believe, it was on those with whom the responsibility rested, that the evil sat lightest; for, in the mere sense of this, there —was exertion, as the anticipation filled the mind with schemes and prospects, and even in this alone, gave it occupation. Still there was far more than time enough; far too much to occupy in action, and incalculably too much for thinking: and while part of »ur standing work was- to complete the duplicates of our journals, some weary hours were filled up by noting our recollecUons of- the natives with whoiT) we had been so long in communication. What mine were, furnished a sketch, which I ^m very unwillingly compelled to defer to an appendix, gladly as I would have introduced it into.this journal; ,which, if it ^ may often Kave wearied the reader, by its unavoidable repetition of similar occurrence,s, cannot hav6 tired him "to one ten-thousandth part ol the degrees that the entry «nd the retrospect wearied myself. JLet him who reads to condemn what is so meagre, have some compassion on the writer who had nothing better than this me^greness, this rppetitlon, this reiteration of the ever, resembling, ev6ry day dulness to record, and what^ was infi- nitely worse, to endure. I might have seen morei ,it has been s»i(): it may be; but I saw only ice and snow, cloud and drift and storm. Still I might have seen what I 4id not; seen as a painter, and felt as- ,^ poet; aAd then*, like painte^-.and poet, have written, That also ~ may be, but let painter and poet come -hither iahd try: try how far cold a'hd hunger, misery and 'depression, aid those faculties which seem always best developed under, the comforts of life, and under that tranquillity at least, of mind, if riot much more, .which the poet ■ and the writer require to bring their faculties into action. Our "foBcundi calices" were cold snow-water; and- though, ^ccbrding to Fepsius, it is hunjger which makes poets write as it makes parrots speak, 1 suspect that neither poet nor parrot v^ould have gained much in elpquence under a fox diet, and that an. insufficient one, in the blessed regions of Boothia Felixi % '" /*• -i-J . out still then « teen I sledj they - iu. 'Mom ---r--"^- V > TO TH« ARCTIC SBOIOiril. 415 A':. JER LV. ■yfV variable weather on the two following j. t . . "'S"'- There dSI^;; T' *''• ^''"u'^"'' '•"^' °" ^^e the week. ^° ^ plw, continuing thus till the end of the tenth, and we saw two bSrs with twn 1 ? P'"'* J.* ""^^^^^ on to pass not far from us Thft^ f "*"' approaching, or about ;ng^hemale,arpS;ing'^!;:ar^:t^^^^^^ the week were very severe ones wItK o k ''"'®*'-, *"f l^st days of and the thermometerfeU to 2^"'^^^^ '^"'^^ «5^" ""^^ ''"ft '"ow; -still ali imprisoned. Z" fhe „^t Z i»°^" »".?'^' ''"* "^^ ^^^^ there was no possibility of undSkfnY "? «^'" "'"•"e q"''et; but . teenth, when J party o^f men were tn^t foL''"^-^/" '^^ "'"'«- sledge of provisions: and, havinrdeDosLS?*"? '^ advance, with a they murnea ;. makine a seronKn. '^ ' ^ 'V'*'"'"^ ^'g^** '"''es off, ,^Uar supply, Ind reSnTatteh? °" ''^ Saturday.^ith a .i! ^^^-^^tJZ^i:^^ -s too coldo^ 54 \. •■«.;. :.. -v-; 'A ■■"'■' :rv r l-sM w ■'4 IMAGE EVALUATION TES^ TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 g^i^is^ ■"|2i 1.1 11.25 £ Ui |2.0 ! ■ "■ M '1 • ■'*> Fhotogiaphic Sciences ". ^7V ... Corporation, 23 VVIST MAIN STMIT' WIBSTII.N.Y. 145«Q_^ (716) •73-4503 '£t?,i'jiJMr.t: T., "7\ \^ ■r S 1^ "m'i/^ J cr ;. . ' , - ■s. ■ • ■ * • » ' ■ ' » • 1 : . ,' ^ "'- ■<■■ " • * ^ . - • ' ■ "■ >'■ ,' , •^ - ■ , • « •^ ''?^!^ ...•' • ?■'■ ■ ^ ..*"'• ■ ■- ^ ■* * • . 'i x; ' ' ■ ':"'i ^ • * - ,"" j. . V, ' ■ ■■ • ■ .-^ * • . • . ■■ . . ■ .■ -%■ ' ' .. . : •'* * ^ \ * » ..'■■- ^ ... i . * * ft' ,<, - «r '5- * k ^ ~j ■ , ' ■ '. "*■ pat— •' ■■ ' K ^■..' A' ■' ■; * % m »♦ •,v\ ' ■ , ./' ,. ,. ;.. . ■„ ^ -■ . :..■ : " ■■-,».-: ■'■•^'?t .' ' _s^ '^K 426 SECOND' VOTAGS OFDIBCOVBRT in advance, to '^ boats which we had left, sufficient proviaions to last us from th&H'st of July till the first of October; as that was the point whence our summer journey and voyage would commence. 23d. On Tuesday, Commander Ross and the parties set off with two loads of various articles to the depot, and returned about mid- day on the twenty-fourth. 24th7. In their way back, they saw a bear, and killed a seal: and,'in the evening, another of the former, approaching the house, was killed. It had been at our flagstafi*, which it had pulled down; 4ind having^ound and eaten -some bread, this was discovered on opening its stomach, which contained noth- ing else. *l^ 25/A to ^Ith. The men made another trip, but returned with inflamed eyes, so that they were confined on the -following day. On the-next, the weather was fine, and the thermometer rose to 14° plus, ihe sun being very powerful: another journey was taken to the first depot, and the thermometer rose to IT*. 28M to 30th. Sunday was a day of rest; and on the twenty- ninth, another journey completed the depositfon of the provisions at the place of the boats. On the thirtieth, there was a severe gale, and we could do nothing: and, wjlth this last labour, we ended the month of April. >. The last month was, on the iM»ole, mild, being never less than 26*' minus, nor'hijgher than 19" plus; and the mean temperature wa» minus 4°, being four degrees above that at Port Bowen, and seven above that at Victory harbour in the same month pf the last year. We had succeeded in getting aU our provisions forward, contain- ing our supply from the first of July to the end of September, and were thus eight miles, or a quarter of the distance, advanced to- wards the place of the boats in Batty bay. The transportation of them onwards to that depot was calculated to be work enough for the next month, because the parlies would be coiqpelled to travel the same ground eight times, so as to make the distance 256 miles. The fat of the bears which we had killed was an addition of some moment to our fuel, as the skins had their own value. Five grouse had been killed; but not a snow bunting had yet been seen. One fox only had been taken. , ' . ^ The men were better, except one of the scorbutic patients, John Wood, who appeared to be in a hopeless state. The sun had pro- duced a visible eflfect on the snow, which was now disappearing |rom the tops of the hills. - .. . -« May \8t to 7th. The gale, which continued all this day, pre- vented us from carrying on our provisions: and it thus persisted until the seventh, being a continued storm, vjrhich entirely hindered us from nftoving during the whole of the time. The thermometeF was between 3" minus, and 10" plus. Twobears were wounded. 8th. This day was nearly calm; and having got all our prepa ra- ^ ■ti,..: »•»•»„»-.-. TO TUB ABCTIC BEOIONS. 427 "yt wnence, deptt»tiQj(^he first load, we returned ten mift. #« 14M/0 24/A. Not to repeat these daily proceediBJrr™.^^ required four journeys; sfnce, Z%''k7;.:^T^:l,Zn'ZVe TJEt "^^ r'** "f °*«''^'«' t'**"»P<"-t our £.veS store anS in additten to those, the men that were too ill to walk It w«i i^f therefore, till the twenty-fourth that we arrived rr.h.K-«?."°*; deeply was the ground covered with snow. To die forXm LnS wLTu^tlrT'/'^T''^?''^ Kre'ter part of the ^ wSue w2 were much impeded, and at last stopped, by . stron/ breeze I^ #k5*/k ' **'*K /* ^fcame cilm and mild on the twentv-fifttf«i^^ inSthe fnll't"^ '*!i'i'«^"« ^°'"'»''^ »»>« ^^''•'^ proceederbofh oSSS f«n « u°'^?8 ^^V °° ^'»'«''» '«"er I remained with the bba^ S»?K "^ \"^' *° °^^* observations, while the party retgrn5'"t^ fetch up what was 1^11 left. I came back much fat2dsEi„^ here alone in the hot, about midnight, a bear pulledl^av tlie Si! ^ ::i"ri naTonS"""? r[''"^ ^«" ?n,'n1a;i7Jnt X tsilr,^^„dwVi:;n^rofZ^^^^ -'- -^^^^ -'-"^' weJI'bv'muil'-th?"' ^T "^'^1 °' ^^^ "o-' «'^»°"»e travelling Uitt bad It hapbened sooner, we should have been stopped alto- » ■' ..»\ » .;.^H «■• — .-♦ — ^., ... .y. /V SECOND VOr^iPE or SUCOTKRV •-^1 gether. On the tvirenty-ninth, all having at length been concen-. trated, we returned to our, house on Fury beach.^ I killed k bear and two foxes on one of these days; the total number of the latter in this mottth having been twelve. The sight of some gulls twice in this nionth was a very welcome one. ^ The mean temperature of this month was lower by seven degrees , than that at Port Bowen in 1824; it was 11° plus, and the extremes plus 25° and minus 3°. There had been no appearance of a thaw;" the ice in the offing was as bad asiever, and the two or three gulls, with a few snow buntings that we saw, without one grouse, were Jbut feeble signs «f an- advancing summer. The fatigues of the; men, of nien and officers, since no one was exempted, were very great in the last^wenty days of the.month which our ever renewed training occupied; yet they had not ma- , terially sufiered, though the sick continued^ no better. Our allowance of provisions was as low i^ before, and the mode of distribution into meals the same; while the night had been made pur day. Ifhe quantity of provisions that we had secured thus far on our road |to the expected liberation, was sufficient to last us, on a tWo-thirds allowance, till the first of October. I June \st. Having thus carried forward to the boats all that could b^ spared iVom our actual wants, that every thing might be jn readiness for moving whenever the ice should o^en, we had now to occupy ourMlves as we best could at our ** Somerset house," and to make oursdlves a»^ content as might be till i^^as time to mdve again. Th s apparently premature advance was absolutely neces- sary; because^ at a later period, when it should be^ue for the boats to move and make the attempt to navigate thdj^^n strait, the roads from our winter residence to their place^^flpTnot only be much worse, but might prov^ impassable for suchHoads, und^r the little piower that we had at command. Witn the present ar- rangenf)ent|, the surplus that might remain with u% would be mode- rate, and a I short time would bring us up to the boats, in readiness to sail; whereas, had this last month's «rork been deferred, the ice might hai|e opened, and joined again fojr the winter, before we were readi^ to take advantage of it. The journal of this month is therefore, Very generally, uniform and uninteresting. To us it was so: it cannot be otherwise to a reader. 2d to Sp. Divine service was re-established on Sunday. It was very bad Weather, with strong northerly winds, snow, and drift, on the three following days; but it improved as we advanced towards the end of the week, the thermometer rising to 30°: notwithstand- ing which low temperature, the sun dissolved much of the new mow, ano laid bare again some parts of the hills. Some birdp were killed. 9th and 10th. The weather continued better. On Monday a I' ■■■' • , ' " ; ■■■ •■ - /. ■ .- «•■. ^- .'"i ■■' ' ' ■ ' ' ■ '* ■ TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 45 j proved on examinatCb L fc^^^^^ having as it . ^ the eleventh, for the first time b^ it ,1 u ' ^°"'^ "'" <«" «" standing which,on the ?ol£g da'v water """' '»"»-'. "«^-ith- in several places, and there we?e,Janvnnr^^fu '■J'"*''"^ '^°"^'» on to Saturday the w^^hL .• 7 P°°'* °" ^''^ ice. Hence, fine,andatotLsLdereidiZS^^^^^ 1"??^ ''"'"S '"""«''•"« ice was, of course, still dTssofSfht, K T/' u"^ 'now, while the wldom reached the fieez rnn^n^/ '^°"Sh the thermompter at night time, was 52°. *'^««"'g.PO'nt, as its highest tjegree. in the dty- o>rre'teaTht'at7hfsteT^ were^ut two or three Tetrles SJ^^T'"'^"' ''^'^^' «^ least, work^of dissolution was K ^^ ? ^^^ ^^"'^^- ^he greiit ^ more rapidly than "n the^nrefef n^ ' '* "'f\«g'-««d by all, much aummeraniLl8we?enow^f!«Sy^.'''" at the same time. The ducks and a^tsrw7r2\l^ledTSr\'"-/''°"* ^'^^ ^°^«" "^ «t various times. Some w«rt Z i ^' ^^^'^""^ """"^ °ther birds %nir r t''^^^^^^^ n^r ;irnr " ^'"^ ^'^'^^-^ ^- - of du1kro^thi^i:yrb"inTtK^^^^^^^^ g-^ »,.at for a long time: t&ero„ ofh?rr^^^'® ?'""^ reserved f^r the sici ^aVA/rJaV''??':??-'*''' .^'^T'"'' ^^-^ went forward with a sledeSToad o% i i*"® t^.«?ty-fifth, a party turning, they reported thafthV^ and prqvisions; and, on re- snow. ^'l di5 ^Tfind t so bad' a A""'' '°''''fr'^ ^^^^^^nd sSl another load on the fol o^„„ ^ represented, in proceeding with returned to send on the oth-.^' n'^'c « ^"J'^^^ ^^'*=h stage, I ' were finished. The weathpr H • •^''Saturday night, the sledges the former, in its inUfnU^,^^^^^^^ ^h.fof terially mprove. Manv «o. !^ ' . *"® temperature ma- deer; 1.nd £)me birdaZe k leTTn'r;? ""f """l^ tracks of rein- 30M. On this inn JIJ II !' '"<^'»<^'"g forty dovekies. turned in good 1 e^^^^^^ P»7 T^^'^h ha'd gone forward re- able; and L diurn FranL ofT?."^ '''"/°''^' ^''^Z """"^ ^«^°"'- In the beginning of Jun! ?L « *^"'P«"t"'-« «^a» ^om 38° to 42°. able, as the leather was vert .nfr^!."^ exceedingly unfavour- in the precedinrones at the J^l ' i ?' temperature lower than though there wfs ^ery ittle r^n H.^^"! ^'- ^°'''^'' ''"^P^ovei, The'ixtremes wei^iVand [rlT"^ *"""'«"? """ch snow! We ha*advanced the tent« .Si ' ^^^ '"^'"' P'''" 35*°. tion forwards; which thoj^h Sut Tr "*°?' 'V''« '^«°"d P°«" than a hundred milw of a?„"* frl^J"''^' °^' '^l"''-*'* more to bring up the loads which w««?' S ^^"^ necessity of returning in any other manner! wtZ^^S T '"'^ °" *° '^^^' P'*««» V •«"^- ^e were still, however, encumbei^ed by the i /»?'i V -4 U .. . I • «T~ .-.,: . Lfir ... "■^'S-*- . -•* ,, SECOND VOTAOE 09 DISCOVSRY 4S)(i ■ / \ siick, who eould not walk at all; while, unfortunately, they were the ^ three heaviest men in the crew. ' Some others could barely walk, /but could give no assistance in drawing the sledges.' It was well / thSt some appeared in good health; while all were now in hopes of / a speedy embarkation, and of an ultimate escape from the. miserable ' abode of people who had, on the whole, been sufficiently miserable in all ways. Some of the numerous persons with whom I have conversed, since my return, on the history of our voyage, have suggested to ine, on this subject, a remark which I, assuredly, did not make at the time, and should not have made now. It certainly never struck bae, and I am sure it did not enter the thoughts of one of my of- ficers, that'we had ever done, or were now doing, aught more for 'the sick men of our crew than was our duty, and, not less, our in-> elination. Undoubtedly, it was a very heavy labour to carry on- wards these sick aiid enfeebled men, encumbered as we were: it was a far more serious mattery when even the liveq of the able might be sacrificed to a duty which thus curtailed our means of conveying forward the provisions and accommodations necessary to our own existence, and wl^itt is still more, were indispensable to the accom- ' plishment of our Ultimate hopes, a return to England. It was also, as I have since been told, a great sacrifice of our own comforts, to have reserved our best and most delicate food for the sick, to have nursed and tended those who had ceased to be aught but an encum- brance, and of/whom, some, as we full well knew, were not des- tined to survive. That may be very true: I believe,,that as regarded ourselves, we did wrong; it is possible that such notions may have occurred to me for a moment jslr two since my return, when the ingratitude/and obloquy which I have experienced from those very persons in/ particular has vexed me; and I believe that when the history o^the wreck <^f the Meduse has been recited to me by those friends,]! may have sometimes wondered why we should so far have differed; little willmg as I am to remember any thing which may n^ke human nature appear in an evil light, or to add to the bitter /feeling which England too often en^rtains towards its neigh- boury But in spite of all that might have th,en occurred to our ^ mimis, though I cannot recollect that it did once occur, in spite of jRicJn inconvenience as we did really suffer, and such hazards as we did risk, and in spite of the ingnatitude which I much fear I have / experienced where I ought not, I imagine that I did no more than/ it was proper to do, and which I should do again in the same cir-i ^umstances: yet is this not boasting, since I am sure that every /British officer would do the same, as I know that every Christian man ought, in any situation. If it is true that France really wants such a lesson, I most be sorry; but I fear that no lesson will infli^- ence those who have not in their hearts the inclination to do right, a ■ / ■. V. \ ;' ;-- 1* TH« ABCTIC REGIONS. . / 431 of their moti4m.y^veirwhhhe?d "''''''^' '" Jf puni-hment While the thermometer at niehts^^^^^^^^ " **' w.th »now .„d slee* point. OuvpresSledmZw[lZ^LZ^' 'T ^'^T« ^''^ ^^^^'^K norther freiL animal food ThanT^ft; ?^^^^^^^^ had here, no5 g^ns; which was not muteh ivet^LT '^''"l'^ P''ocure > oue ducks and dovekiea •«?«««- ^ ' ''® " consisted but of a few and the ,;of ;t iVai^ed anK^^^^^ T'"'^^ ^°'- *"« »"""«»' obliged to return toTfor tif.. .1? • ^ *^^ ^'"^ ''« "hould be a loss to W hoiJ irwer^to "^'^'"*? ^^""K'^ -omewhat at , event. J°°'' ''°'^ '^^ were to subsist under such an unfortunate Bauy bV'^i^avX'chtLf" etom Jhe journey to rocks and water, was a nSvel sSht »^^ • cliffs, intermixed with wouldhivebeeninteresUn^ pv!nl Ai" this. dearth of evei^ts, spectacle. FaninSlKTc^l'?^". C" K»9 ?P»e«did 7» • &t ice td a great distance aS'.hn^"'^^'* all before it; breaking the /Pessary, th.TMn„eiTwhiSi£y^ ^^^ ^^"^ ^^"^ "O'^ne- be eo^'red withrgm^ntot .i^clTdTy:;: oTea^Jr '""""^ "^ Al^,Tn7sotrn;rrl^KA^^^^^ as theup are some wh^ never^ fLl. /i,'" Pr"!-?"**. P^^^ry, Loutherbourg on this subject £ /n?^^^ fP'""*^"* P'^*"'* ^^ scribe such aS occurrence as thi/m.r^K *'""P'„ °" "^ P"*"* *° *>«" fail to befeeble.YS there w£Ti • f superfluous, as it cannot adequately de^ibe ,? n eveiAh. n?' "*^ "* '^"* '^*''«''» «°"'d I theleanest dr^^n^VouTKifc^ or represent it in witnessed what Switzerland Z ,?„ J T *''®" *^°'* '^*"» ^'■^e gigantic aMhat mTy l^deU^Jn^^^^^^^^^^ tl\T '^\ '""'^ ^""' gaming in magnitide. as iKocirLl^^^ thundering doSn an irre/uhr Sii- •» ^i-^? P^gress, and then breaking, fill ithadLfe;fc ^'Z% "^Zf'"^' "?^ rel^tronVtSri A1\1 V^^^^^^^^ ^ ¥ ^to taneoua as it was unexXted Th «!«, f "' l" '^" *" •"»*""•- over our heads soSfwM iron^ L7 """""^''^jhat had towered - aware: the instaSof S mSiorwas tt"? Tf "!!'*' "^y* ^"''°'^» "^ it seemed to have coiriL^Shl^^e ceLlt'Sad' n^"^^ "T*? "^^^ sea: no not into a sei of wrter butT^« ^f • *'*'*. P'"»j5ed mto the glassy fields which had sotonXund ^in 11% ^'f^\^S^^P those hut a feeble mi„^>.Ji;:;ft&J^ /" :/ \ ' -'f' 3 . A":v. 7: ■■■:■■ \.''-\'v^7"V''^'''''''"'''^V,^'^''"'"'T^''X:-*'''^^^^^ -. las SECOND VOTAOE OF DISCOVERT noise exceeding thunder, and prolonged even like the reverbera' fionsof the thunderbolt, until all settled again into the dead and icy stillness of its former repose, yet to leave that new mountain in the waves, a record of this catastrophe, as long as record could be of tho^ mountains which the sun would ere long melt, and tM wind's float ofi to other and far distant regions. 7th. The shooting of fifty dovekies yesterday gave the men a . good Sunday's dinner; and the last divine service We trusted ever to attend in this hT>use, was performed. It was the commencement of a farewell which all hoped would be eternal; but every one must answer for the feelings under which he, for the expected Isjst ^ time, repeated the Lord's prayer, and heard himselt dismissed in those words which promise, to those who deserve it* thf^ peace which passes a|l understanding. 1 trust there were few who did Bi|>t^j;eGolleet to return their own private thanksgiving for s6 long a "reservatiob amid such dangers and privations, and who did not ■* ^t up their own prayers for help in the great undertaking now Impending, on the success or failure of which must Jturn ft^e event CI life or death to all. ]L ' Sth. On Monday every thing was ready, and we too were 9s repared as we were anxious to quit this dreary place, as we hoped, lor ever. Yet, with those hopes, there were mingled many fears; enough to render it still but too doubtful in all our minds whether we might not yet be compelled to tectum: to return once more to despair, and perhaps, to return but to die. To have been able, con- fidently, to say. Adieu for ever, would have been indeed to render this a delightful parting; when even the shelter which We had received was insufficient to balance all the miseries which we had flufiered; miseries to have extinguished every sense of regret that we could have felt in pronouncing those two words, which, it is sai'd, have never yet, under any circumstances, been pruuunced without pain. This may be true; I almost believe that iP^ould have bpen true even in our case, though in parting from our misera- ble winter Ifouse of timber and snow, we left nothing behind us-—;^ but misery and the recollection of misery^, since, in comparison '^"^^ with what might have been, it was, heaven kt^ows, a shelter from evils far greater, from death itself^ and, such home as it was, a Home; that strange entity from which man never parts, bad as it may be, without reluctismce, and never leaves but with some strange longing to see it again. But true aft may be the pain of an adieu, or the fancy of leaving for ever a home, or true as may^ be, reversely the pleasure of quitting for ever the scene of past miseries, neither the pleasure nor the pain was oars. Scarcely the feeling of a fare- well, for hope or regret, for pain or for pleasure, was in any iqind, when we»l.Dtly, id w. ^^1i,„^ ^« .-i^.l --^^ i =!*?= 54 ^ r<- - ««5»K-,«,tHE»»,-,,.. ■ "•IK'fc \ ^^" 484 ncovD voTAoa or ducovvbt J hundred doTekl^ were killed, m that our supply of fresh meat wu respectable, if not great '^ 20ih,2lat to SOM. Op the twentieth, the weather became fine •gain; the ice continued to move, and the caulking of the boats was continued. An easterly wind made -the thermometer fall to SS**. On Sunday the ice was reported to be broken up in the oflBng; but alter three days, without any thing material to note, except thtf killing of fifty dovekies, it remained close packed on the shore, so that It was impossible for us to move. The weather, from this time, continued variable, with occasional rain and wind, together with fogs, till the thirtieth; as the only events worth noticing, were the improvement of the sick, and the killing of soive more birda.for oi)r table. 81*/. We had now seen the ice leave the shore at last, but had yesterday been prevented from embarking, by a heavy fog. ' TMs ending in rain and sleet, with an adverse east wind, on the last morning of the month, we did not load the boats till mid-day; but •8 it proved, in vain, since H came to blow and rain so heavily all the afternoon and evening, -^- f"'^'ge »n evil antioipationg. • gale of wind, dis^ayrmore IRltZ L*'""* °^ *'** '»»«^»V «•» right to poasei ^ ^l^ledge thai>a landaman has wy eoL'rua^SlZtt'ha'r ^T''?-*-""'^ ^---be. ceased to find it '/xKei » IsThri,"^*'' r/*^ '^*»'"> ^'^ad given to thinking, iUsZS^Z^^^^ '"'¥'•" "»* »"«h (and I am sorry to sav in ih!„lr «T '**°"" °^ *'»« P'*'*''* day %. of my junior ^rv ^ Ind 1"?'* "ore than the/did in thJ « all the wirie*' for iT St i^JfT' ?f""'*'*'y "d ceruinly, «« this be trueTr S and tL"y^^"'riS "°°""""k' ««y whethe^ desp te of the nahrv f»n»,-I\^i j °°'** "^" ^^o w 1 so sav. of t'hese day^oTSJ^sTir 'But P^?"'^'''*, "ltn» philanthi^p^ - to discuss at present «/A/idlfl*''? " •° ™ -erious matter -);.. Spanisif or Italian ^;;;^:'??U'r ^ • ' ■ ■ ' ' : ■ ■' A' -*- ( tf""1 " '•♦; ,J^. h, I ^ L.; !:■ 436 SECOND VOYA0K Or DMOOVKBY ■!!°"!!! Sf^l'*?"* pillowed in this manner: better was it that theV Jahould ^rk thetaaelvea into utter weariness, that they should bo hungej^M to llnnk only of their stomachs, fall asleep and dream of nothing but fc better dinner, as they awoke to hope-and laboui-for It, and that their slf>ep should fie, not On the pillow of the proverb. J)ut on a couch of snow, sufficient to impede all reflections but the wish for a better bed after a better supper, and the gnawing desire of more and better on the following day. * ' The shooting of waterfowl furnished indeed some occupation to . those who were worthy of being tjrusted with powder and ghot; but 1 beheve the best occupjition, toalet of. such starvelt wretches as we were, was to eat the game, not to shoot it. Erert morning now rose on the hopes of a good supper: If that came, it^as more than welcome; and when it ^id not„why then there was the chince of one to-morrow. I do not say that the supper which was missed was equivalent to the one that was eaten ; since hope or expectation \' nH°** "J"?*"® *•**" wishing, fill a maq's stomach; biit it is certain \ thalr the- sick recovered rapidly, and the well improved iA strenirth; \nor 00UI4 I doubt that their present state of m1nd was, in this. freely Jess efficacious than the broileJ ducks and the dotekie se^ ■pie*;, •*\ J. . - ^ ■ To lookXout from the to|r|>f the hill, for the state of the ice, was another occupation, for any ot^e that chose; and it was exercise, while It served to wastfe the timej It was not, like Behring's unhapDv men. to^ watch for the ship that yvas destined never to appear, and, when the day closed, to-retirtf once more to darkness and despair. Ihe day of relief might be delayed, but it wal long yet before it •would be time to feaT that it was not to arrive; while, ill every chance Of ■ breeze, m every shower of rain, and in every movement of tb« ice, however minute, there was sufficient to maibUin hope, and to render- all anxiOMs for ihe to-morrow; as each, on reUring for the night, felt inclined to say, yet not under the same motives as the wretches in the Castle of Indolence, " Thank GimI, the dav is done.'* • , " . . ' 14M.' It was on the fourteenth' that hope became anxiety, when-« a lane of water was for the first tiqae seen, leading to the northward; - and not many, I believe, slept, under the anUcipatioas of what the next day might bring. 15M. On this, all were employed in cut- ting the ice which obstructed the shore, as early as four o'clock in the nnorning; and the tide having risen soon after, with a fine west- erlv breeze, we launched the boats, embaiicedtl^e stores and the tick, and, at eight o'clock, were udHer way. We really were under way at last; and4t waaour business to for- it that we had been in the same circumsUnces, the year before, in le same p)ac^ to feel that the time for exertion was now come, and those exertions to be' at length rewarded; to exchange hope for cer- Uinty, and to ^ee, in Ihe toind'ff eye, the whole strait open before us, , £ ^.v x^. ti•ii^fe4*-^, / /^*"- the Sixteenth, that spot to ti.e north of ;?^ '' '"^"'Kht; reaching, on " tents on th.^lwenty.eighth of ruiu,?^.,-.^''"'* ""T ''«^ pitchetf ouj not ,f all were here quite free ffrVnnr'f^''^'"?^^*''- ^know hope, The,differen(/e in t^me u« S 'f '°r '"^ *»>"? ""r ne^ j^ , tho^ day. pasa aa they had Zne h, thJ f iT"'''? *'*^"' «"'' «hould fate to return to our lait winter's h^m/ f"!*"' '^ ""«''» »*'" be dflr .\it waa butytob easy t^an^ c Lte ?hTfi"";' 't"''' '° «"'' our tK/ >,-.n rfrozgn grave, and ffi' i^fho'm ''''°"? f*""'""^ ^' -hould We found'here no paMa«?to thlV,,L 71°*^ ^'''" •"*» f°«e«l/ . -till extended toward? the north -It h^^^^ **"* '''« '»"« "^ ^vi duration than was indis,^nrb,e for J^ t°"7"^ "''" °^ "° ^""g^' open water increased in breadth- and «t t k^'"'^ Proceeded, the ■^hed our former position at the nor/hi 1^''* '" *« «^en'"g ^e ^ V.ow/rom the hill here, showed tha7&-T ''"P*^ ''f AmeriS. A ""^'Hf-ir^-rd wa. in suclvTstete^i Sfc ^/^^ "^^^hward .rtd , but as It blew too hard to velrture a£^3iS" *.u^ "^'"'"K *brough it; pur tenta fo^ rest. ,^ ^f^.'^'^W^'' ^bej^ght, we pifched , . 17M. Atthreeinkemorninir^S2;g;., A ^ 'ng an additional note ^T^nrliJJt^^''^ '"Ce mor6, leav. the former was concealef^rt^^SS^It. J^^l''??'^ ??««« wK^ j^f ■•?> rowing, untU, at nooX^^^ ^f °" ^° tbe easU ce, through many streams TffZtin^& *''® ?••»« "^ ^bo packed ^extremity wastut a mil^i^Sthffi' ""^^ ^f ^'^^^d tbt? then springing up. enablfed us to round {^Lk ^ ~"t^r'y breeze yf,^-»Vt«^don throughit,andrSed^^ ^"u""^ ^^^ '^"^r at three in the afternoim^ In . f!L k ® ^''*®'"" 'bore of thestrait Jat for which wejXrmefi; waited T.J "''■ ^'^ "' '«"8th effeS which. ,t ,> likely, could not have been II \"'!l .'° """>* ^^yS and ""A^SslS^^^t^^'^"^ ^^^^ fen and unexpecteraSii°n, Ij ^^r^ *« '*« <^«Prices, and to its sud- to find that-solid mass of ocean wK u"«® '''^'^ *bat of magic, mories, which we had locked a? fo^^^Z'^* *°° ^''^'' ^"^ °»' ^ e! for ever in a repose which nSthin^^M t^ ^?'" "» 1^ '^ ''a* fixed, converted intp water; navirbir^nH ^-^T/^^"" ^'''^^b, sudden^ most forgotten whatit'wasffloauttr^^^^^ l^ "*' ^'^° bad a|^ Jmes scarcely to be believed" and 'he whT ?" ^i'' "«»»• '^ was at had for a moment to renew the r„„„^r^ 1°^^*^ *° '^ake again. »eaman on his own eSme^t th^ J'"k°" ^""^ *»« ^« «t length ,' T— ^ — r ^#, -•"\;-' «* * «, M '!■: ^ "^r t I -M' 438 8EC0KD VOTAOK OF DlltlOVSRT this breeze to a gale accompani^ by hard squalls, to take shelter on' a beach twelve mijes west of Cape York; having made, on this day, a run of seventy-two miles^ i ; 18/A. The wind moderating, and at length becoming calm, we were obliged, in the morning, to take.to the oars; and finding no ice to obstruct us, rowed along to the eastward, and ty midnight rested for a short time at the cape to the east of Admiralty inlet. 19/A. On the next day, the weather beine the skm^, we were haltVtray be- tween this place and that termed Navy-board inlet, by eight in the corning; when, the men being exhausted with nearly twenty hours^ rowing, we stopped ^^n the beach and pitched our tents.- The* weather had not yet become warm, clear as the water might be; since the night temperature had never exceeded SS*', nor that of the day 40". . • ' ' ^ ^ ;> We were soon driven from this exposed place by the coming bii of an easteHy wind;, and thus, taking once more to the oars, we ■rowed alone among i(iebergs, tillme arrived at an excellent harbour, receiving a xensiderable streamy where we were protected by these heavy masses,' while w< ceul/, if nfecesaary; haul the boats into a pool at the mouth of 4hc rive)F. We had thus gained five miles 'moi^(i; and^^beihe six or!seven to the west of Navy-lM^rd inlet, were ivilhin eighty of Possession bay. 20/A. It b^n to blow hard last night with a north-east wind, and a heavy sei, which continued this day; blocking us up com- pletely, but allowing us ttf haul up the boats for repair. ftUt. Grow- ing worse at lengtji^ we brough^them into the inner harbour which the pool tormed; when, increasing to a violent gale, all the icebergs which had arftinged themselves into an outer one, broke away and disappeared. There was, with this storm, a steady fall of mixed rain and snow, and the thermometer subsided at 34°. S2^ "S|i»«„^B',^ !.<, . «*. ■0'-l-^ TOTHXABCTlOBBaiOM. 4S9 AN o time was however InB*. »k« u * V^ made by hurn^ngZT^^V^t:'' "^"t^unched, and si.n.h we left our liUle*harbofr rt,Tx' jfe'^Tf '''•'*'«^"^ ^'"barkafS omng to alternate calma, and Tight °1™ M?"- P"?*^" ^«» ted.W whe^'r^'' ^'V towMMhet^^^'ani'irr;'''''^^'^^^^^^^^^^ , T^^^^^ fhe was, ahouM aoon have t!^ i ^"i ^^^ained calm breweiurttben aprarS^^D a«d IJ^^^"'^^^^^^^ Unluckily a V ward; ty which Lan! K fi Ja'tt?' ?" "^ > ^''-^ ~"St! "m ■'^l™' ^hile the other two W .ft 7 foretaottt wka soon left ^^-Me hopes of cuttin^;^ ^^ '""" ^° ^''^ ««*^ appeared tXy^n^ t:^ heX^- 1' *?.*"'' "«thwar^,-hich -he hove to, that'shf hadr-een us yfcfe *» <>«« time:Vhet be the case, as she soon bore up undM ir'^""' P^^^** "ot to was apparent that she was fast leav?i^, ^'\ '° °o long time it anxious moment that we had vJ?v^«."*^*"<^'t was the moit when, most fortunatelv •» f» i 'i ^? ^«'* comineuD with h*/ - M-teieveno'crock^J'J:^^^^^^ lower down a boat, which rowcS .wL-.T*'' '" ""» aback, a^d . She was soon alongside, whTftheTo*?**'^ **''^'"-*'" our own! by presuming that wt had met «, ?k **® '" command addressed us Jip. This Seing an^Z^d fn tZ affi™^""'^^*""^ andT^Toi the nameof his vessel, andexDw«L5« *'•''?' ' ^-equested to know I »w answerJd that it was ?Mh?SLT "Vt *? •*« *-k«" on & by Captain Ross;" on wh "ch I sta^S tt.° i ^""' c""*^* commS in question, and my people the cSwnfi ' !^«»»he identical man who commanded this boSt w..^l u''® ^"*°''y- That the mate t«.n a. he .ppe.„,d i ^^^o "ot doubrtr ** ^^is ISbrm:: JlyS|;he«ledne«iof ,i:„- on such SL7^/'«> '^'^ the usui had been dead two yean I «.irffc? °°'\he assured me that I whst ought toWe ^"trul a^coSirteT'* ?'"' howev^rXt what pr^mrture concision; i Ae&L*'!?*"*'T"' ^aaa ime- «tf US might have shown him/had he itn !°"^ °^ ">« ''hole sS we were certainly not whalinSJiL? *° *"'* ♦« consider, that ^iTSt'^Wence^f oir W^^^^^^^ *hat we clrJlSl* our backs, and in oar starved fn^ ..1 °* *°° "o impostors." on - 1 ■^■^ij^^i^ 440 SECOND VOTAOS OV DISCOVERT ' (« If it' 1.4 ^ J. J to eommunictte his information on board; repeating that we hid long been given up as lost, not by .theni- alone, but by all England, As we approached slowl/ after him; to the ship, he jumped up the side, and in a minute. the rigging was manned; while we were saluted with three cheers as we came within cable's length, and were not long in getting on board of my old vessel, where we were all received by Captain Humphreys with a hearty seaman's welcome. Though we had not been supported by t>Ur names and characters, we should not the less faave,^claimed, from charity, the attentjons thftt we received, fdr never wns sefen a more miserable-looking set ' wretches; while, that we were but a repulsive-looking people, ne of us could doubt. If, to be poor, wretchedly pOor, as far as our presiant property was concerifed, was to have a claim on arity, po one could well deserve it more; but, if, to look so, be td ;hten away the so called charitable, no beggar that wanders in land, could have outdone us in exciting the repugnknce of those ho have not known what poverty can be. Unshaven since I know t when, dirty, dressed in the rags gl wild beasts instead of the iters of civilization, and sfarvedl to the very bones, our gaunt««nd Im looks, when contrasted with thdse of the wellHdresaed and well- id men around us, made us all feel^ I believe for thift first tinoe, hat we really were, as well as what we seemed to others. Povert]^ i 8 without half its mark, unless it be contrasted with Wealth: and vhat we might have known to be true in the past days, we had for- (otten to think of, till we Vere thus' reminded of what we tnily nrere, as well as seemed to be. • But the ludicrous soon took'place of all other feelin|;9^i^ iodi II crowd and sneh confusion, all serious thought was impossible, (vhile thenew buoyancy of oar spirits made us Abundantly willing be amused by the scene which now opened. Every man was lungry and was to be fed, all were ragged and were to be clothed, 1 here wm not one to whom washing was not indispensable, ndf^flNM ' idibm his beard did wA deprive of all English semblanee. ajI, ei^err thing, too, was to be done at oiice; it was washing, dressing, riuving, eating, all intermiogled, it was all the materials of each jum- Ued together) while, in the midst of all, there were interminable questions to be asked and answered on all sides; the adteiE^lnres of the yffitorv, our own escapes, the politics of England, iiid the news which was now four years old. But »ll sobsided into pc>ce at last The sick wer^ aeeomroodated, the seamen disposed ot^ and all WM done, for all ^f us, which eare and kindness could pe^ form. Nig^t at length brought quiet and serious thflfiM;hts; and 1 'i^st there was not one man among us who did not thm express, where it was due, his gratitude for that interposition which had raited ua'all from a despair which none could turn lotpAt and hid brouriit ua from the very borders of a not distant grave, to life and friends and civilization. ife- ^k3Str^^_\jfi^i^ I d k d u c< d) TO THE ARCTIC RKOIOirs. 441 f-\ N . \ ; -^ N / It / ...„.-J^-""" f* .,y \ ^ fie :¥ 443 SECOND VOVAGK OJ DISCOVERT '' • \ "P the! some far as vessel send ^tempt pped; CHAPTER LVII; Proceeditigs on board of the Isabella — SurveL of the coast — pnartt L Arrival at Hull and irJ London. I i 1838. Jhipist 27<4. Ow conversing with Gtptain Humphrey^ thb morning, I found that he had taken twitnty-seven fish, which wa(s but two-thirds of a cargo, and that he purpbsed yet to remaiii oi»tiK time. The Isabella had gpne up Prince Regent's i^et, as Mount Sherrar, followed by the Wi)liam Lee, whicb was tl that we had seen, and was now in sjght; while we intended on board of her a part of our crew/ He had made a bold ' to cross Prince Regent's inlet to Leopold's islands, in hopes ing 8om6 traces of us rather than ourselves; but had been si about two-thirds of the way, by a field of ice. He had ru the edge of this on the day before we crossed; and it ws(s in 1 ner that we had missed him; while it wds (m his returik that after he had examined the eastern shore for us in vain. Tha. ^^ „«« not noticed our boats, though he had seen them, arose from/his hav- ing nnistaken them for those of the WilHam Lee. f Being desirous to leave, at Possession bay, a notice to aby vessel which might land there jn^arch of us, as ahM> to verify my chrono- meter, I was landed for^se purposes; and, after buryii^ a bottle, with a state of the facts, at the same cairn which we had built in 1818, we returned on board and bore up. Before noon, keeping on the outside of the land ice, we had rounded C^pe Graham Moore; and, after some considerable difficulties among the. floating pieces and the icebergs, attained a place of safety, though continuing beset. On Sunday, divine service was performed; giving us a now public opportunity of oflfecing our thanksgivings for ouf almost miraculous deliverance. The William Lee and some other Vessels w6re now seen at ihd outward edge of the ice; but we did not oiirselyes get clear till the thirteenth, when, with the aid of the sails, iid warped out, and standing to the southward, fell iii with the fle^t o^ whalers on the fishing ground. From each vessel the master came on board to wel- come us; and those from Hull and Newcastle in particular, brought fiqd- along man- ^emet, he had i„___._„... b,jf»rf.>'C»;irSsrj ' "~~»">«miiiM,)bserved difference of bng'Se i^^^^^^^ ^P^ ^r ";«"«*' ^J «" observations. These coincUd wiTh tKe L^^^^^ -"^ ^rmer ►hreys; and under the facilS VS K^^^*5.^^^^ ^eyed the coast, with Several o?tS^K ^ ^^^'^^^ "«• ' ''es'T- tention of pubfching a^LuSX^' ^"V^ «nletsr with the in- \ H>rtant bv its abunLnt Knr. T' °^ " '''^'^" '«H"«d « in,- longer in those seas. The Se^Soi ThT'^ "°> ^"'"^•" «»«=»» parted without taking th*. iSi! l-^^^r^ ^^^ '" company, de- fy her; though/had^l Lt £„^^^^^^^^^ inteEde/to^^end Orkney, we s&jild havTbeen arhom^** *" ?«°^ "^-"^ men in It was on the thirtSh «r c * T ^^ «*°° ^s thkt vessel. • .traits; anS oi the tSh^lf^^^^ we quited Cfav passage, we landed amromnL We J^^^^ ^'r "^ ^^^'^ next at the Lone Hmp- fi!«» i.- u ^®^® detaiped bn the two reached the KbSl' tfehS^r'''? ^IJJ^ 4««°th, w^ the Rotterdam steam.bMt ^'S'****"*'^' ""d P'-o<^eededIto Hull in , diffi2Sty';r«aXd"r'in'n'^^^^^^^^^ \' --Ml^ -o-e of welcrfme from the SlvT'^Jr^ we shortly xejeived visit. Trinity-house, L tL pK?L„k. SPS^'i^t'O"' *he oflicers of the 11 % -7- i(%w. t"" a-i.-'^'s V *^ i'-iTi. *'••'< i*-** .V / - ■! -i ADDENDA. Vy. *ng MBflmeuc role. I had the hoiHittr o7h«in<; ""«/""cn naa^een houted Hw Majerty, ^ho had ed^atSSal^ISS^^^ received^ ?5Sediafel7 granted me^^mS to SffiKiffn^J; of Her Majesty the QueenTon mV iSiartn tTiSPiw "luBtrioas name, and that ed me to place around AeiS^Srf th«B«^M'*'''P'''«5 f™* ^mtna^: crowned foada of Europe. offi"i5Svl2tZ?£«*^ *•»« reigning 4±-H*^'k""* "iS»««'n»^«0«blShed b?ote^^ 'fS^A the with whom I had an MdviflenhiitlhadredeiTOdSyDSKtfnn'SM''''"**' »«* '^w ««» byWd l-S-f. and that I -^K^^ttoS!l?Sr«t^^^^^^ 3'0K^5&^tfth^^^ . ' Vl*>*vyonrcotoduct? Which I^reiS * * '*"•" "^"" ^fd MelviUe in p^oof cfiSwt fact. ^ a:- *•.:- » -•»• . M. ,««■- 1-^ ■'■,-'.,. ,- <"*<«■« >»*»pi4eiiW»- "«e" anA discovfr. Sir, ■ "'""^""slSaffi"'''^'"*'^- ««« ATWS&»K;Lrpceedea w the spot, andfiiund that the north land was connected to the south, by two ridges of high land, 16 nules in breadth: but taking into account a diain of fresh water lakes, whieb occu- pied^ the Alleys between, the dry land, which actually sorauratef the two oceans, is only five mUes. This extraordinary isthmus was subso«iently visit- ed by myself, when Commander Rqifa proceeded minutely to suryav flie sea coast to the southward of the isthmus leading to the westward, wbirt he suc- ceeded to tracing to the 99th degree, or to Z» miles of Cape T«iimgain, of Franklin, to which point the land, after leading him into the 7«th degree of north latitude, trended direeUy; during the same ipurney he also surveyed 30 miles of the adjacent coast, $r that to tfee north of the isthmus which, by also taking;a westerly direction, formed the terminaUon of the western sen uto a gulf. The rest of this season was employed m tracing the sea cmst south of tiSFisthmus, leading to the eastward, which was doms so as to j««[« n® ™«« that it jomed, as the natives had previously informed us, to AdraUee, and the land forming Repulse Bay. It was also determmedthat there was no passage to the westward for 30 miles to Uienrirthwwd of our posiuon. -«».,«. This summer, like that of 1818, was beautifVilly fine, but extremdy unftyoura- blefor n«vigatH>n,andourtSB|ect being now to try a more UOTthern latitude, we waited with anxiety for the disrupSon of the ice, but m vnin, and our ut- most endeavours did not succeed in retracing our steps more than four mUes, and it was not untO the middle of November, that we succeededin eutting the vessel mto a place of security, which we immed "Sherlfl's Harbour.'' rmay here mention that we named the newly discovered continent, to the southward. "Boothia," as also the isthmus, the peninsula to thcr north, and the eastern sea, after my worthy friend, Felix Booth, Esq., the truly patriotic citizen of London, who, in the most disinterested manner enabled me to equip4his expedition in a *"ffiie*la8t^»rinter was in tediprature neafly Mual to the meant of what had been experienced on the fourproceeding voyMft, but th«J™*f ■" ;I.«^!SJ I831'8et m with a^dc^ee of violence hitherto beyond Irerord, th^ therroomeipr sank to 92» below the freezing point, and tffBaverage ol the year was lO^bo ow the precedmgt but notwithstondingthe seier ty^ the summer, we traveUed aeroM the country to the West Sea; by a chain of lakes. 30 mi es north of the isMimuB, when Commander Ross succeeded m "orveying 60 wiIm more of the coast leading to the N. W. and by tracing the shore to tni™'*"" S;Pi i*"J .position, it vms also fully proved that thert could be no pastege belowUe risl "fliis'autumn we succeeded in getting the vessel only 14 mile? to the north- ADDENDA. 449 ward, anda»^ehadnotdoubled»he Eastern Cftne nil h«~. r '• .■. .. way at an end. and put quite b^ond SbiHtv hv «n„ hf **■ "^ »av"« the ship and bavins only provisiSne to laTue'^o J nn« ^ .L",""^*^!!:.^^':^ "^"« ^■"ter. were accord- ;) was named «avingouriiveVOwin^ro^he",;ery%'ug^^^ to iteep either upon or close Jo theini maldnff [he rirrn ?®r ''^ "'"T "'*''?'='* increasiner niir itiatanm nr onn i;.:i„ ""•."-_ T« ""« circuit of every bay, thus July 1 that we reached the beach comDfrtpIv pKf^.^ik' \"*'''^"'' ?"* ""«'' A hut was speedily consiSd and Z h„«.^ h^'^'^^'T^I"^^ gashed off the fcach/but prSemial v drive^on ^hL'^^ °'- "'**''''' '"»*' ^c^" dunnsthi, month: but thJ'unnLtrifJi^^ilC^^^^^^^^^^ tiree boats we reached the ill-fated &??r^s^„!s5'A^j^rirwS-r=;^«f^ Dense, wmcii may be easier imagined than Apanrih^A ah "•'*•«= v «na sus- throuffh were vain: atleM^ lSin» fi!^J k "' . /" °»T attenjpts to push proacK of a moat s'eSrlSr C^retarn to''^r„"T^^^ Provisions and the ap- remained wherewiK rost^n lifp' f hp?«^o "'^^ '^^^'^ «*'one ">ere , "o«fatiguinS'aSlab?rlous^Shiv^^^^ V"«r a Batty Bay. Our habitation w«ch MnriBtSrifn 2 ?.i'^®" /° leave our boats at covered with canvM was JuS thS, S^^^k" ?* "P^^i ** feet by 16, roof covered ^tr^orfromf^r tise^e? feet fc^^^ with water when the tempera tore w^lS^^Siztrk^t^'J^uPfi «f*"t^tfd consistency of ice, and thus we actnallvX.pn!nT;Ki 5^ t '?"■"**''**# took the . during oneofthe^ostsSvwe winters &mS^^^^^ «" ''•*»>erff J»te;C''2,yant of bedding, clothing, andSifoSdtLp^»!SK*'y*^L^^S'*- n »ra, journe,. of raiy-two mile, ea?h M ffi Sly! wl WlpSJ'KT;' tl le ability of my pen, but they will be duly appreciated by their LSrdftips JaS 57 . ' . - ■ - ' , ^ / f'lJiWMwKiy^t^/vrtJr' h' ''m-:: the learned bodies of e >• ft pd with Ms acquirements. My %teady and faithfiji Triendl uras formerly with me io the Ir mbmnmb lember, and who are already well aequainUi' r. William Tfiom, of the Roval Navy, who , „ ^eUa, besides his duty m third in command, charceof the MeteoroIogicalJauini6l; thedistribotion and economy of provi* l^d to his judicious plana ana wtlMiestions must be attributed the uncom- rMtr^ of health whichoor'crew Mjoyed; an(l,as two Out df the three who , ^'tm four and a half years, were cut on earlv in the Toyiaf eby diseases not peculiar to the climate, only pne man can be said to have perished. Mr. M'Diarmid the surgeon, who had been seveuil voyw es to these regions, did justice to ths high recommendation I rer«ived of him: ne Waa successful in every amputation and operation which l^e performed, and wonderibUy so in his treatment of the sick; and I have no hesitation in adding, that he would be «m ornament to His Majesty's serviced. Commander Ross, Mr. Thorn, and myself, have, indeed, been serving with- out pav, but in common wi^ the crew, hai^e lost our all: which I regret the - _^.._- ... .. ... ._.-ii ^.-x j.jjjy power adeauatejv to remunerate my ' but recommend for their Lurdsh^s' con- more, oecAuse it puts it totally out fellow-sufferers, whose case I oanni sideration. We have, however, the eonsoMic , been conclusive, and to science higl hended in the followinrwords: The , that the results of this expedition have« \y important: and may be^ briefly compre- «.: iscoveryoftheGulfofBoothiaitlieCow. tinent and Isthmus of Boothia Felizjand avast number of islands, nvers, a^a lakes; the undeniable establishmptiuthat the N. E. point of Ameriiea extends to the 74th degree of .north kititode. Valuable observations of every kind, but particularly on the i^agaet', apd'to crown all, we have ha4 the honour of piftcmg the illustrious name of our most gracious Sovereign, William the Fourth, onthe true position of the Magnetic Pole. \ I cannot conclude this letter. Sir, withopt acknowledging the important ad- vantages we obtained, fr6m.thp valuable ptiblications oi^ir Edward Parry and Sir John Franklinj,and the communication kindly made to us by thrae distiih ifuisbed officers before our'^eparturefnogoEngland. Btit the glory of this enterprise is ewn|f'due 'to Him whose divinefo hten most especially manifested tQwajBI us, who guided and directed steps, who mereifuOy provided effectual means for our preservation. even after the devices and inventions homUe endeavours with complete so irhaa lUour _ - -- ^ who, I itmn had utterly foiled, crowned our \ Ilhave the honour to be, £e. JOHN ROSS. Capt R. N. ' IToafi Committee have fotind the stateibaents contained in the above letter eon- firmaii'iKl for as they have been examined, by the evidence which has appeared befora themj and, supported bv the opimons of Captain Beaufort, hydrographer to the Admiralty, of Mr. Children, one of the secr^aries of the Ro;ral Society, md of Professor Barlow, who bias made the magnetic variations his particular [fetudy. they see no retkson to doqbt that Captain Ross nearly approaished, and that Qommahder Rowactually t'eacned, the Magnetic Pole. The importance esMciaily to limaritime nation, ofthi8difKM>veir,ai)d of the observations connected i^th magnetic s^fiencc. arising thereon tJJIbiMidi iiilil/ estimated by the scientific Witnesses whoMvelteen examined, nr^^^ tested by the xeal with which this branHnscienee has been oC*' eminent inen in every {rauntr^r, and .bvjtnblexpense which 8e| vernments have of late yeara incurred for the same object. 1 .„_...^ Under tl^^ese circumstances your Committee can have noliesitatiotiin repor t- V'that a great publicservieenasbeen performed. - Inde]jlendentl7 of the demon- \t|on-tImtone pnnafre, which had Jieen opnsidered by precedmg navigators "ne of the most likely to lead froto the Atlantic to the Pacific OceanTHoes ' thus narrowing the fieldforfutorewxpeditibns, if anch should ever be .-. i-j — indcinUyof thA addition ofbetween six and sfeven htftidred - |geogrQphicalknowledM,andof the-ValoaUe additions to Aeteonplofry, which thiMexpeditionwiUsnpply,jroar Com- ' jk the imbue service whim is rendered to a maritime coun- te of MttM, by deeds of wring enteirtwise and Mtient en- ip, wl»M|Rile the pohlic ^patby, lilid en^ thftgeneral Y ,^' I* \ ' -•me Tt.. ><«'»• .*•<"• -4.',, , f ''^B-''' ^\. •- >. ■■..'V '^ / #81 Sf Captain Back, peS TcaptetteSS^*^^^^^^^^^ tile Government also contributed 2000/ gallant party, to which lothei"^" — * i>.L^ to report . Bp V¥dmir^-ty';S;.rd"not^U"^^^^^^ °" .private -ri.k7'^drt!iB *^^rred.,ot be callid-upon inatrSw to not?r« in ^^°"'*'*..'^' ''"y liabiiiliei iWualafenga^ed in i^yet. S^M^e Swe" of^Mfc'T.'*^*" "^ »''« |«r eh^se services has gone unnoticS or unrew« Ji5 Admiralty extends, ■S.^-'iim delivered iit to your cSitlLTtM^i' '{^PPea" 'rom a ?ceived doublelull MvUftilth^»fi.foi^ik ^.^"^'^^Yf that "all the iituntiUheirarnv'S?^rEnffi SS W^ve besi^s been eSSS'lHSle f^^^^^^^^ iced in otherrfhat will IeaS% promXn"' that M' *kL ^ "has been promoted, and aDooint*!^ «» «k. a- **'• Abernethy, — .^lave pay after 4580/.; tha yards, or thegunne Mr.Thoi ,^' that Co.. tific re^ii pointed length special „ and that Onanitv'i owe th( them h. I tniraltyi tion. C anxious nnnhfi^ to paM his exaiQiiwtlon will C? ™«m«.fS^I' "fi!P*'*^^„«W*, when above fbtor years, and who had then dE,ji%"wtgriS»*i::^TS^ Admiraltfin the wa/ of SomoUon * Ha^Klf,^^^* ""^ "''"f' f"™ "w the amtwnt 6t nearly three SiS^^^l^"!'^*** **'*/'■«" and bsses to half-pay^hich had a^Sat^ BgZ eiSi'i^S^'hS^ "^ ""^ »*?"» ^^e ■ame rank with which he wentoat: ifnde? thp« iV?"' •**» 'enna"" with, the to the advahtases to sSenrn anH ♦!.- k« "^ these circumstances, and looking •ufted froTt^llten unSh^comS^^ wl^icHre r^ the country has bew wimngTbcur Srmer^S JP« «l*?nse which tions, and to the rewards i^ich U hL vn?i?lii°^'?°* C^f «milar expadi- Dourable objects. yowCommfttee hS^?h!^ t!!° ^?\ '*" important ancfXT of a due r^ to'^JSKZmJ.WeSmmMdtei^^^^^ '^"nds "t %"°S ^^t«d toTCaSyohn Rom * *^*' " "^ °^'^''« "»«»- ^ «Mon%t&ylS; rJi'^&Ttl.^^^^^^^ this power tp propose some fit token rSwteffiLl^l™-^»''K^*»'ir*'°»'»^^^^ ditTon! ^& rolSoffiJKJtKr ' ^ ^^^tence of the expe- of the'Hous5^aSd yoKoSSffieJU to ?eS.J°^^^^ »>J' a mem^r a-^^o Hi. MkjestJ's Go^errSl'^e*? rre^s^tSn^^/^rjSrliS April, 1834. LORD VISCOUNT SANDON, Chairman. mlZl teft^''""*"* *^' "*» -bj^riPtion ha. ever been received by, me for t ->s. 'n t A - ■ * •■» , »■•■ APPEN^X, W .^ ■. ">■ ■"■" 7 -■ - 1 » _J__- ^— . V — '"^"^ 7 ■ :. • : m S at at ' yo APPENDIX, No. 1. t Copy «>/« hater from. Captain John Rosa, R. N., to Captain the Ban, George EUtot.C. B., dated October 22, IS33. Q ' C; „^ ,. „ ... Portland Hotel, Oct. 22, 1833. 5?^ ;, Str,— The expediuop from which I am now returned, having been underta- " •'ken in 1829, at my own expense, I neceesariJy came under certam engagemenrs #fuh tl)«crew, which according to my expectation at the time, might De likely ^-to termnate in fideen months, and in that case I should have been enabled , 5, 453 situ- at irge n. srta- I enfB '■ keljr ■ dio cted eby 1 min- oer* and hipB 1 )081- ster. nent d to irof ever obe- lent nent ana, lion, nte- Ma- ect- de- iblie It of irith Bion Ad- i. Ad- APPENDIX, No. 3. -^ e<^ ^a l^er-fron. Ca,tgnJ^nM^,E. N., to Mr. Barrp.,^ I nave tn ersofth the late JJi|«lition'to "thl" Arr"fTp i«»oo'' "if "'^ """cers and men empWed on priiMiplafhaYlKid ha^e feU ^^ *''« pay due to each on the fc«e3oTiL^^^^^^^^^ for^v'^rl.'p^^^^^^^ for mvself and tection socheerfull^r extended to usfeXirLordshfpr ^''^ °^ ^''^^ P'**" ■ ii&T^ .--'. lam, &c. JOHN ROSS, Capt. R. N. APPENDIX, No. 4. '"'V ^'''"^"■^^^•'"K-'&'iff" •"*■«-. *JV.,*-«iO»- \ / ^..?iVy5^Ie^^Wtre'i'^^ llf/r."/ ^"''? c'oSg;.e??orVid. ?te*'"5 .**' «*«*' according Ke ^le bv wWoh ?«^' «'>?*"'(? «he amount ■err bound to remunerate them for tb^^rJi^^^U?^ ^""^ H^« ^e'^ yo«r- LordshipB to acqdfaint you in p^nlv ?hlf fuk ^^L**?? " *™ commahded by their Si"^"4"»y;|o^™»en riZL?h a^^ »«° have no cllim on the Board of Admiralty, yet, in cSeration Jf^^h?^'"" J'** ""t.^nt out by , the benefit of acience. 6f the sKKKm-n hi'"/''^'*®" undertaken for ■ituation in which they were nlS^nr iS?f„?®° ^'^/^ undergone, the perilouB miformgoodconduc?uXr cireumJSn^Bt^JKSi!:'^^ P«"od.a£d their ■eamenwere perhapa ever MMse^lffiSir r^i" k- ^T*^ *" '''»«'» British we deatrfute state in which" theBAn»«„^f¥f "'*'"■ entered into by you, and of native country, haveEinducId ffil «,7* P">^'dentially arri/ed I'n their ftehngof humknityrimKteI?trreK''l!fr""'*' circumstancea from a themTrompreBBingneSty rather thnnt^^ f^^"^' engagement, and W.ed, to whrch'it ialntS 5i SSbmftteJS^.Shi-^r'''!S,"^^^^ ^^ »»e aaaem- ' feS?*?? *he Accountanl^eSl "f the ^v' £"'A«"'«Wp« have therefore «8(M. 12*. 3d., aa the amouSt^wWch hv Soni?L^.»^J*^ the aum of anengagementtopa^t. »«'• P^-"^'C;S^Sl fi^lif^^^^^^^^ ?"\! li l\ ^'~ik h *= ;5 ADVENDA. mafins themyaymentB, you will take a atamped receipt aa i^ voucher in full of all doniandB they may rcBpectively have uponyou. ^ "uenecmiuuoi * / I am, &c. (Signed) . J. BORROW. I: / ■' '^PPENDIX, No.5. j^'--.. , ./ ^ «l.^if vt^°^ amtSunu qf Money paid to thb Crew of the Diecooerii 28, .1833. MAlfBa. Ototse iroiarmld ■ WUUainLl^t Thomas Blahkey - RlehanlWall. . Anthony Buck Allan HlnnM Jeunes Manlin John Park .. ■ Joseph Curtla . . John Wood Robert Bhreeve ■ Henry Ayre • ThomaaAUtaiethle ChUQham lltomBa George Taylor Alexander Branton Barney Lachey . David Wood - James Dlxoa • Oeorge Baxter avAums. Surgeon - steward • Mate Seaman - Ditto Second -Engineer Armourer ^aman • Ditto Ditto ■ , Carpenter's Hate Cook Hate Carpenter Hate ■ • First Engineer fiawdman Seaman - Ditto ■Oils. t ..*• ■ — 818 18 9 Promoted to Surgeon R.N. 172 14 ^f Not recommended. 345 9 4 An appointment in the merchant senrlee. m 16 Ditto in the Dock Yard.^^^^^' ^^^ IV 9 Lost hU eyesight. m 18 8 Returned to hU Meads, as 18 8 Died on the voyage. 138 ir Hade Gunner R. S. ISS 17 Ditto. ( \^ '0 Returned to his friends. 166 9 4 Ditto. «» 3 sued soon after his return. ^ in 1 ™»2»ot«<> to gunner of the SouthampMi. M6 10 « Died on the voyage. . , , 3» 9 4Retumedtohlabmay. ! - ' 617 16 Ditto. ^^ \ 121 16 Coast Guard Service. 121 110 Returned to his friends. ~~ oo a "Dledon the voyage. 89 80 4660 12 3 121 11 Returned to hia friends. tw? rtt?Mf '^•" P'^°:?H««^ rewmtB for the payment of all above Bum> except w^ &.t"J'*'r L" *rS** ^^°^ D™"' dea^. whose waeee have been repaid !I^ J "® '{apaB of the Treasurer. The representatives of James MarsUn have made a claim for the arrears due, but it is stiU under consideration. "" ""■ {Signed) J. T. BRIGGS: Translation of the Esqoimanx Hymn, page K ^5 ^ OP OUR KING. Tvmo.—NaUunakauioJmnk$ara. Makemuijr, O Father, the days of the king: make stead/hst all his doincs. eserving bim on hiffh; hear our prayers, and be gracious to our king. • .w i'^Vi?-!^®'" ^^^*^ ^'SS'?*"^ °^ *^ anointed, and let him every where P show mildness as thou. Oh! hear our prayers, and be gracious to our king. i* • N • I V . -^ EXPLANATION ■ . • ° - ■ ' .OP SEA i^D TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN ICY SEAS. ^<^W an insulated mountain of ice A^^li,tZ7!^' ''^P'*^- »'' «« °«^ «act other, but through which the to P^wiS'dWt'offir ' "'^''^ ** * *«^'^. -efficient to enable a^ship ^Sfo^Kofe**'""*" "**"'• «««*^«"«h«nall pistes that the ship cao ^^ryfce. that which ha, a great depth. mprop*tion. and not in a atate of iceP'ufe'sSe.* ""'°'' '''«^«> •«*t''^«n two floe, or fields, or between the 4.J«^.a p^eceof ice project^ Va^^^^^^^ .oitem'»£'^ fr«"° »^« "««» «e to the «,a ice. or aeros. a channel * f «J«^ «?. ice formed after a fdl of fnow v ■carceljr impedes the ship. ' "^^ ^""^ t*""*** « the wateif Which 4^«Af, a bay in a floe of ice. • Jb&re. or 4or.„^.pressing the ship through small ice or young ice. under 4FS'cowf''*^'^"'^-^»'«» »»"»• »ast-head.. to protect the lookout **/??Sv'aSLtir''^***"P'^^ inthedirectionofthe JMtnk, tand Wink, p««Uiar »,«,«, appearance of the sky ovej/the distant ■/ / 7 450 KXPi,AirA7ioir or sea awd techitioal terms. ^. Wa/er.fty.adark appeariuice of the dqrindiiatiiiff Clearwater in that dircc- %ttng; tee, ice which has been formed durine the dav or m>ht ^ ice pieces of ice less than floea^f Sua shaDesa^^^^ ^^mmocky tee. ice so uneven and rough Kbei^^^l or nearly so on ^^^e,hrv,ater tee, ice formed on a lalte or fresh water, and which is transpa- ^Ffre Hole, a hole in the ice. kept open in order to obtaih water to extinguish Spupper, hQfeathrough the side or gunwale to let water out ' ./■ I-a;- r ■ -■■-■X ,.■■;» ■ // ■^:.'' ' 'i \ I #= .^.i^',,,. 1 ji'i fci '' rn^ii i ii i . II -«!" inthatdirec- 58. , ' nearly so on h is transpa- to extinguish I lug sail ' ./ ;^»-»f fii' m * ^ ' // c -r .if ft o f.'l vS.iV- (' fc i " V, r a • ■ A* \ ■ %^ <|^ "X ';? -f O- • » «T . . f '»'■* v' ■ >. " I " • ■ ' '.' * r- ..< d V ' " ' / 1 „■ " '^ « •■ -" ."