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Les dicgrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. d by errata imed to ment , une peiure, i fapon d le. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 i - ■■ - -" ' '---■■■^ rtt\-v- itm ri i'f"i''M .jmmmatm T HE FALLS OF NIAGARA, OR TOVRI^T'IS GUIDE TO THIS WONDER OF NATURE, INCLUDING NOTICES OF THE WHIRLPOOL, ISLANDS, &c. AND A COMPLETE GUIDE THRO' THE CAN AD AS. EMBELLISHED WITH ENGRAVINGS. BY S. DE VEAUX. BUFFALO ; WILLIAM B. HAYDEN Press of Thomas Sf Co. 1839. Entered according to the act of Congress, in the year 1839, by S. DE VEAUX, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Northern District of the State of New- York. \! :'iii^jiid£ML^Jiiii»^4^ •^iUA,. ..iSillSii'i mm TO THE PUBLIC. •| n •5 J The author's views have been principally directed to Niagara Falls ; yet, at the same time, as fitting for such a publication, he has thought proper to take in other matters, seemingly, iVom their contiguity, alike interest- ing. The books that have been published as Guides to the Falls, are quite competent for the object they have in view ; and every visiter who desires to know all about them, by a little expense in purchasing such publications, will add much to his stock of information. This book is not calculated to come in competition with those, or any other publication ; though it is, in- deed, a Guide to the Falls, in a new form. The subject is made very familiar, and every inquiry is answered that is usually made by strangers. It is in- tended to amuse as well as to inform ; to treat of some subjects not touched upon by previous publishers ; to preserve from oblivion the names of some individuals of notoriety ; and to furnish some incidents of border war- fare, and descriptions peculiar to this country. In doing this, the author thinks that his smaP pub- lication will form an agreeable present from those who visit the Falls, to their friends and children at home, when they return refreshed from their pleasant and amu- sing tour. i IV It may be here observed, that it is thouglit, by sonic, that the terms in which the Falls are spoken of and usu- ally described, are too high and exaggerated. If the English and Scotch poets are any criterion for descrip- tive expressions, (and that they are the true standard, all will allow,) so far then from being exaggerated, the terms applied to the Fails are but tame and feeble. Several of the authors alluded to, have afforded poetical descriptions of waterlulls in the United Kingdom, in which all the epithets of bea.ity and grandeur have been exhausted in the labored delineation : descriptions so lofty as to leave nothing to add, even when applied to the Falls of iViagara. Look at the objects as nature presents them : a brook or mill-race, to a migh'y river — a pond, to an oceon. Indeed there is no term of our language too high, or idea of imagination too comprehensive for this profound and impresb.'ve scene. The mind, awe struck, is overwhelmed and lost amid the elemental strife. And it is not only so as regards the Falls, but the whole of that portion of the- Niagara river, from the commence- ment of the. rapids below Navy Island, to the eddying and heavy current at Lewiston, is, without doubt, one of the most wonderful and prodigious of all the works of nature, and affords scenes, with but few exceptions, more sublime and terrible than is exhibited in any other land. Niagara Falls nilage, Jum, 1839, THE AUTHOR. . f^'m-iai1lftiitmst't,^it-^ ■.I 5j s .£ ^ I I FALLS OF NIAGARA, ON THE AMERICAN SIDE. THE TRAVELLERS. A party from a distant City are on a tour of pleasure to the Falls. There are three principal routes on the American side that lead to this celebrated place. One from the upper lakes, the soi^th. and the east, through the City of Buffalo, from thence by Rail Road to the place of destination : One from Canada, and the lower lakes, via Lewiston, and from thence, also, by Rail Road : The third, from the east, by the Erie Canal, Rail Roads, Stages, and Steam Boats, to the City of Rochester, and through the village of Lockport, and from thence by Ruil R .;(* to the Falls. The travellers that are the Dramatis Persona of this taunt, are seated in the Lockport and Niagara Falls rail road cars. They have arrived within two miles of the object of their visit, and the exclamation is heard — *Uhe Fails! the Falls!" An imposir.ig scene has, indeed, broke upon them, and a general move takes place to catch a glimpse of the mighty cataract. Those seated at the right side of the cars have a full and direct view in front, 2 18 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. It First sight. and of the Niagara river, which, by their side, flows far beneath. On the very verge of its banks, at a dizzy height, they are whirling at the rapid rate of eighteen miles an hour. On looking below, some passengers hold their breath in amazement ; others have been known to express their astonishmenl by a low protracted whistle, until the supposed danger was past. On looking at the object before her, one of the ladies exclaims — "is that the Falls?" ''Yes," replies a pas- senger, '' and look below, there is the far famed Niagara rive|." Another observes — ''after so long a period I behold this place;" and one — " what a distance have we come to feast our eyes upon this scene!" " Great mist arises from the water — the Falls seem concealed behind a cloud. Is it always so?" "Always," answered a person familar with the scene, "and in the clear cold weather of winter, the mist which arises in clouds, appears like the flame and smoke of some great conflagration, or as of a burning city. At such times the burning of Moscow is always brought to my remembrance." In a few minutes after the Falls are first beheld, at the Mineral spring, two miles from the cataract, the cars have rolled on; have passed through the main street of the Village, and have slopped at the upper end. The cars of the passengers are saluted with — "passen- gers for the Cataract," "travellers for the Eagle," "gentlemen please to show me your baggage for the Cataract," "Eagle baggage," "for the Cataract, Ma- dam?" "do you go to the Eagle, Sir?" and all the jar- gon which a full array of the runners and waiters from two of the best Houses in the country can utter forth. M JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 19 General reiimrks of traveller)?'. The travellers having made up their minds before their arrival, or afterwards, go to one or the other of the hotels, enter their names, secure their rooms, and breakfast, dipo or sup, as the case may be, and when prepared for a visit to the Falls, send for the Guide. The aid of a guide is indispensible, to point out the dif- ferent views and to impart a full knowledge of all the localities. After having concluded their arrangements they start on their first ramble. Passing in a western direction from the hotel, they traverse the bank of the river, or after leaving a narrow street, continue along on the rising ground, until they enter a grove of trees; emerging from thence, they behold the 1 "alls at once before them, rolling majestically, and displaying all their grandeur. *^ How magnificent!" * ' Truly, the half has not been told! ' ' *' It is grand — it is dreadful!" *' They are terrible, yet beautiful !" *' They appear small at a distance, and, at first sight, I was disappointed. They exceed my expectations." '' Never have I beheld, or imagined, any thing compar- able to this." Such are some of the many expressions which breate from travellers, and show forth their emotions; they are generally those of admiration, mingled with pleasure ; but many gaze and wonder in silence. 4 15 i: 20 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Description. THE FALLS OF NIAGARA. •'Tremendous torrent! for an instant husli The terrors of thy voice, and cast aside Tho;je wild involving sliadows; tliat my eyes May see the fearful beauty of thy face." On the western boundary of the State of New- York, runs the Niagara river, in a northern direction, and the centre of which is the boundary line between the United States and the dominions of Great Britain. The Niagara is the outlet of the vast chain of western lakes, beginning with lake Superior and its hundred tributary streams, and is the principal inlet of lake Ontario. Niagara is de- rived from the Indian, and was called by them Onyaharra according to David Cusich, of the Tuscarora tribe, who published a pamphlet in 1827. The Falls are twenty-two miles from lake Erie, and fourteen from lake Ontario. The two branches of the river which encompass Grand and other Islands, unite a mile above the rapids; and it is, there, two miles in width. As it advances forward the current accelerates in its down- ward course, and the channel contracts in width. From tranquil and glossy, a slight ripple is seen to move the surface; it next assumes a descending and cradle like movement ; the waves enlarge, the tops roll over each other, and are broken into white-caps and spray. The whole body of the mighty river becomes agitated, ais if conscious of the great plunge it is about to make. The placid stream has become a rushing torrent, broken into cascades and sweeping billows. Its own momentum presses it forward with irresistible violence ; from ridge to ridge it bounds, until it reaches the perpendicular rock, JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 21 Volume of water. 4 \ and there it sweeps over, and falls below. The water boils up from beneath, like a sea of white foam ; the spray rises in clouds which hang dark and heavy above, or are wafted away by the current of the wind ; and rainbows encircle beiow and above this most wonderful of nature's works. Iris island is in the midst of the Falls, and separates the water into two great sheets. A smaller sheet is struck off by Prospect island, passing between that and Iris island. The portion between the islands and American shore is less than the main channel which separates Canada from the United States, and passes on the western side of Iris island. In that channel is borne along a volume of water of immense magnitude, the drain of more than 150,000 square miles of surface of lakes and rivers. How sublime the object that is presented to the enrap- tured beholder ! Such a body of congregated water poured at once over so high a precipice, and falling perpendicu- larly into the chasm below, whose depth it is not possible for man to fathom. The rushing, roaring sound which is emited by the falling water — the variety of colors presented to the eye — the splendor yet sublimity of the scene — are new to the spectator, and create emotions hard to be described. The sounds are those of the stormy ocean and over- whelming tempest, there is one continued roar, yet other sounds arise fitful and varied. Some persons, at times, have fancied noises, strange and mysterious; the intonations of the base drum — the slow, solemn and heavy report of artillery — the swelling note of the trumpet — and even the human voice in agony, hns been heard by many imaginative enthusiasts. f< t f ; 22 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Familiarity vviihthe noise. But the similarity of the sounds to the base drum, and to artillery are so i.ear, at times, that persons have been repeatedly deceived. It requires a long residence lo become familar to, and regardless of the noise. To some it creates unpleasant sensations, but generally they ^re those of a contrary character. To those who are residents, the quietude which seems to prevail when they visit any of the adjacent villages, makes it appear to them like the stillness of Sunday. Strangers who remain over night, though the sound of the Falls is in their ears when they retire to rest, yet when they happen to awake from their slumbers, fre- quently fancy themselves in the midst of a tempest; the the house trembles, the windows and doors clatter, the wind rushes and whistles round, the rain pours; and amid all, they hear the unceaHing sound of the cataract. They rise to look out upc:^ the raging storm; and when they draw the curtain, or throw up the windows, they perceive that the stars are shining sweetly, and not a zephyr disturbs the pendant leaves. In heavy weather the sound is louder, and is heard farther; and to those who live at a distance, though within hearing of the Falls, they are an unfailing baro- meter. After a pleasant turn of weather, during which the sound has but just been perceptable, often gradually, and sometimes suddenly, the increased roar of the cataract ' comes upon the ear. A change of weather immediately takes place, and is often followed by a storm. In some directions the roar of the Falls is not usually heard over six or seven miles; along the course of the river they are constantly perceptable for about fourteen miles; they have been occasionally heard at the distance JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 23 Point View. I oT thirty miles; and in one instance an individual asserts lo have heard them at the city of Toronto, in Canada, di-^tnnce foriy-four miles. Tiie concussion of the falling waters jar the adjoining shores, and the houses tremble in concert with the unceasing shock. This may be questioned by those who have only spent an hour or two at the Falls, in the clear, serene, and bland weather of summer; but those who have remained there longer will certify to the fact. If a door is left ajar it vibrates, if a window is loose it clatters; and even sitting quietly at their fire sides, the inhabitants will, at times, perceive a tremendous emotion, which they can trace to the Falls. Such, are the sounds; the objects presented to the eye are still more varied. Point View, on the American side, not a iieio posi- tion, as the clear surface of the bank and well trod foot path will show, but one hardly mentioned by any who have written on this subject, was the spot from which V anderlyn sketched one of his great paintings of the Falls. For a distant prospect it is unequalled, and more extended than any other. Here, the Falls and the river below can be seen most advantageously, at one view; at Other points the objects of interest must be viewed more in detail. It is much the same on the Canada shore, go where you will and you have one grand and comprehen- sive view of the descending waters. On the projecting rock at Point View, the spectator stands and beholds the unrivalled prospect which is spread before him. Two hundred feet below the rock from which he looks, lies, silvered over and calm, the waters of the Niagara, bounded on either side with rock and pre- cipice; the adjoining shores crowned with nadvq forest i 24 JAUNT TO THE PALLS. Distant prospcL't. trees, and in the distance green meadows, blooniinj^ orchards, and rising villages. He looks at the great object of his gaze, with sensations of reverence; the white sheets hanging in mid air; the waters foaniin'jr, and hurrying from beneath those that impend above ; thy spray rushing up from the deep cavern, and rising in clouds, which hang as a pillar of smoke over this sublime sanctuary of nature's mysteries. The rocky base of Iris island, dividing the Falls, with its tall :rees towering above the water; the Terrapin rocks on the American side, and Table Rock, in Canada: — altogether the scent' isij beyond conception, unique and imposing. INQUIRIES ANSV/ERFB, "Trifles, on «in interesting subject, Cease to be trifles." As many inquiries are made as to places, heights, dis- tances, and on a variety of other subjects, the following paragraphs are intended as answers to such, and afford in the shortest practicable way, the inf;.vmation required. The form of the Falls is a curve. That part between Iris island and Canada is called the Horse Shoe Falls. The western or Horse Shoe Fall is about seven hun- dred yards in circumference. The Fall on the northern side of the island is three hundred and thirty yards. The centre Fall, between Iris and Prospect islands, is about thirty three yards. The whole distance around the curve, including Iris and Prospect islands, is computed at one thousand four hundred yards. JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 25 Inquiries answered. The height of the Falls, on the American sule, is one hundred and sixty-four feet; on the Canada side, one hundred and fifty-eight feet. From Chippewa to Schlosser the river is the widest. The descent from those places to the great pitch is esti- mated at ninety feet. At the ferry below the Falls the river is fifty-six rods wide. It has been crossed in five minutes; it ordinarily requires ten. The cloud of spray which arises from the Falls, is always seen, except when scattered by the wind. It is sometimes seen from a great distance, even from that of one hundred miles. Computations have been made of the quantity of water that passes over the Falls. One is that 5,084,089,280 bai'rels descend in twenty-four hours; 211,830,853, in one hour; 3,530,614, in a minute; and 58,843, in a second. This statement is undoubtedly within bounds; and the quantity is probably considerably more. The average height of the banks about the Falls is from two hundred to two hundred and fifty feet. You can go, for a short distance from Iris islarid, under the spray of the Horse Shoe Falls; some have called in going under the Horse Shoe Falls, but that is saying too much. The principal spot visited, for going under the sheet of water, is at T?ble Rock. Even there, it is fashionable to speak of the distance advanced, in exaggerated terms. Great differences of opinion exist as to the best view of this scene of many wonders. One says, "the best view of the Falls is from Table Rock." Another, " the best view to be had is from the centre of the river, in crossing." A third, 'Uhe prospect is the best from 20 JAUiNT TO THE FALLS. Inquiries answered. Point View." A fourth, **the best view is from the foot of the stair case, on the American side." A fifth, " the grandest views of all are from the point of Iris island where it overlooks tl^e Horse Shoe Falls, and from the Tower at the Terrapin Rocks." After all, it must be conceded that the view of the Falls in Canada, surpass any on the American side. On this side there are many different views ; your eye passes over the various prospects, piece by piece; on the Canada side you have a full front view. On the American side, comi)aring large things with small, you not only occupy the sU'ige box, but go behind the scenes. Persons who visit the Falls, to form a right conception of the wonders of this country should pass over to Iris island, should visit the "Whirlpool, and great rapids along the river, and should cross into Canada. From the rapidity of the water below the Falls it has been difficult to fathom it, but as nearly as has been ascertained, it is two hundred and forty feet deep. The ferrymen convey baggage safely from one side of the river to the other, for a fair compensation. The descending and pscending the hills is a laborious task, and they earn their money. The number of visiters increase yearly. In 1838, from the best authority, the number exceeded twenty thousand. ! JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 27 Nniiics and Initials. t NAMES AND INITIALS ON THE ROCKS AND TREES. "BiiHy memory seeks, E'cti in the woody gliulc, for some dear mark Of ilioHe we love." There nre observed mnny names and initials chiselled upon the rocks, and cut upon the trees. Some hii^h in the branches, and some projecting over the precipice. At the first thought one supposes that the short lived immortality thus to be obtained is hardly worth the labor and risk. It is not so much the expectation of fixing a lasting memorial, as the pleasure ot'having one's name recognised by some friend, or acquaintance, in present or after years. These mementos are like the registry of a public house, but possess a romantic interest that registers do not. Here on the dark rocks and wild forest trees of Niagara, mingled with names from every part of the world, will sometimes be found one dear to the heart of the observer, and the object will be hailed with pleasure. It may have been indented years ago, and he who made the memorial, may, when the name is recognised, have ceased to exist among the living ; and then may be brought to mind ** scenes long passed, never to return." More than once, affecting recognisances of this nature have been witnessed. Had the first European who visited this spot left some memorial of the time, and his own name, he would, by that slight circumstance, have secured an immortality for himself, and much satisfaction to modern inquirers. This is not a useless labor ; it is interesting to many, and will often afford some data and materials for the traveller and historian. 28 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. MiHts nn*l Optical IlliiRiun.s. ailSTS AROUND THE FALLS, AND OPTICAL ILLUSIONS. " Indistinct " Seen tlirougli the tuibid air, bryond tlie life, " ObjcctH appear. The Falls, to residents, have lost nnich of their lone- liness, the majesty and awfulness which they once pos- sessed. Frequently beholdinj,' them has made the scene familiar ; not only so, but there are now so many of the works of man about them, houses, stair cases, bridges, roads, prospect towers, and the like, that the wild and savage aspect which they once wore, has disappeared. When the ferry was at first established, at times there Would not be a passenger for several days ; in conse- quence, it would be often neglected, and travellers were frequently detained, not only hours, but days, in waiting on the movements of the irregular and tardy ferryman. One who was thus detained, relates — " I waited on the American bank, and watched the coming of the ferry- man. Clouds of mist would move down the river, ob- scuring, except at intervals, the shores from each other. At such times, the appearances were truly deceptive. I would see persons coming to the top of the bank ; I would observe them passing down the hill, emerging at times from behind the rocks rnd bushes ; and could almost count their numbers as they advanced to the landing place. Directly, a blast of wind would come, driving away the cloud of mist, and showing clearly that no per- sons were in sight. I would think they had retired be- hind the rocks, or were in some hidden part of the path that ascended the bank, as it wound its obscure way un- der shrubs and trees. Again the mist would roll over, i 'ifiilifVic III"" li JAUNT TO THE FALLS. '20 FlrHt diHcovcry. and again the phantoms wouki jippeur, and, like an ig. nis fatnus, would lure nie to remain tilldirkncaa and night cut oft* all prospect of the ferryman's coming ! ! Who first discovered the Falls, does not appear to he known. They were visited in ICf)?, and without doubt many years before. This is the earliest notice of them yet brought to light. In 1678, they were visited and de- scribed by Father Hennipcn. The description is not very different from those of the present day. In calling the Falls GOO feet high, it is likely the estimate was made from the top of the bank to the supj)08ed bottom of the gulf, or abyss into which the waters are precipitated. It is not now certainly known but that the estimate in that point of view is correct. After having viewed the Falls, from the brow of the bank, to their satisfaction, the travellers pass down the river for about ten rods, where the guide points out where Francis Abbott, in a small building erected by himself, resided for the last two months of his life. From this place he could look out upon the Falls, and regale him- self with the sight of the object to which he was spell- bound and infatuated. This was not a favored residence; but as he could not be permitted to seclude himself on the island, to which he was so extremely partial, he sor- rowfully seated himself here. As every body wishes to hear about this eccentric gentleman, all the information that has been obtained, is given in the following account : 30 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Francis Abbott. FRANCIS ABBOTT. " From my youth upward.--, My spirit walked not wltli the souls of men. Nor looked upon the earth with human eye.< ; The thirst of their ambition was not mine, — The aim of their existence was not mine: I had no sympathy with breathing flet^h. My joy was in the wilderness, to lireathe The difficult air of the mid mountain's top, Where the birds dare not build, nor insert's wing Flit o'er the herbless granite; or to plunge Into the roUing torrent, and to roll along." In the afternoon of the 18th of June, 1829, a tall, well built and handsome man, dressed in a long loose gown, or cloak, of a chocolate color, was seen passing through the principal street of the village of Niagara Falls. He had under his arm a roll of blankets, a flute, a port folio, and a large book ; in his right hand he car- ried a small stick. He advanced towards the Eagle Ho- tel, attracting the gaze of visitors and others by the singu- larity of his appearance. With elastic step and animated motion, he passed the hotel ; he heeded not the inquir- ing gaze of the idle multitude, but firm and erect he bent his course to a more lowly, but respectable inn. He at once entered into stipulations with the landlord, that the room he occupied should be solely his own ; that he should have his table to himself; and that only certain portions of his fare should be furnished by the landlady. He made the usual inquiries about the Falls, and among other things, wished to know if there was a reading room or library in the village. Being informed that there was a library, he immediately repaired to the indi- vidual who kept it ; deposited three dollars, and took a I JAUiNT TO THE FALLS. 31 His opinion of the Falls. " book ; purchased a violin ; borrowed music books ; in- formed the librarian that his name was Francis Abbott ; that he should remain a few days at the F^tlls, and con- versed on many subjects with great ease and ability. The next day, he returned to the same person ; expa- tiated largely upon the surrounding scenery, the cascades and cataracts, and of that sublime spectacle, the Falls. In all his travels, he said, he had never met with any thing to compare with this combination of all that was great and beautiful. There was nothing so grand as Niagara Falls, except Mount ^tna, during an eruption. He inquired how long travellers usually remained, and being informed that many stayed only one day, he ob- served that he should remain at least a week ; and fur- ther remarked, '' Can it be, that there are those who come to this place, and leave it in one day ! I am aston- ished that persons can be found so little interested in these astonishing works of nature, as to spend so short a period of time in passing around and beholding them. As well might a traveller, in one or two days, attempt to examine in detail the various museums and curiosities of Paris, as to think of becoming acquainted with the mag- nificent scenery of Niagara, in such a short space of time." In a few days he called again, and again expatiated up- on the resplendent scenery of the Falls, and said he had concluded to remain a month, and perhaps six months. In a short time after, he determined to fix his abode on Iris Island, and was desirous of erecting a rustic hut, for the purpose of abstracting himself from all society, and of becoming a solitary hermit. The proprietor of the island, having become acquainted with his eccentricities, was apprehensive that his permanent residence there, \ ^BSfr^—rKf 32 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. His residence — mode of living. • I • might be alarming to strangers, who did not know him. For this reason, he thought it not proper tc allow him to erect a building for such a purpose, but permitted him to occupy a room in the only house then on the island. In this house there lived a family that furnished him at times with milk and bread. But he often dispensed with these necessary articles, providing himself in such other way as suited his fancy, and preparing his food to suit his own taste. He observed once to a friend, " that people, in their mode of living, took a great deal of trouble and un- necessary pains ; for my part, I have adopted a method which I find very pleasant and agreeable. I take about a pint of water, in which I mix a sufficient quantity of wheat flour, to give it a proper consistence, and then drink it down. I find that it answers every purpose, and saves me much labor and inconvenience." With his guitar by his side, supported from his shoul- der with a silken sash, like an Eastern Minstrel, he would perambulate the banks of the river to the Whirl- pool ; and once or twice extended his walk to Lewiston. The inmates of the houses on the way would suddenly hear the sounds of strange and unknown music ; the musician would be observed standing at a distance in the road, but as soon as noticed, or spoken to, he would glide away, without giving any reply. The island was his permanent residence for about 20 months. At length, the family removed ; and to those few persons with whom he held converse, he expressed his great satisfaction of having it in his power to live en- tirely alone. For some months, he seemed to enjoy him- self very much, and until another family entered the house. He then concluded to erect a cottage of his own ; and as he could not build on the island, he chose the high JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 33 Milliner of his death. ■ 1 bank of the river, near to and in full view of the Falls ; which, of all other objects, it was his delight to behold. He occupied his new residence about two months. On Friday, the 10th of June, 1831, he went twice below the bank of the river, to bathe, and was seen to go a third time. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the ferryman saw him in the water — he was partly floating and partly resting his body on the shelving rocks. As the boat approached, to screen himself from the gaze of the passengers, he drew his head under the water. It was not seriously thought of, as he had often been noticed in the same situation, and acting in the same manner. When the ferryman returned, his clothes were seen on the rocks, where he usually deposited them, but he was not there. An examination was immediately made, but his body could not be found. It was supposed to have been carried away by the current. " The greedy surge had swept him down, far, far From mortal ken." On the 21st, the body was taken up at Fort Niagara; was clearly identified, and was on the next day removed and decently interred in the burial ground at Niagara Falls. Thus terminated the career of the unfortunate Francis Abbott — little, indeed, known to those near whom he spent the last two years of his life. Some few gleanings more can only be given. He was an English gentleman, of a respectable family ; he was endowed with a good mind, highly cultivated ; and was eminently pleasing in his manners. He was not only master of several langua- ges, but deeply read in the arts and sciences, and pos- sessed all the minor accomplishments of the finished gen- 3 aii 34 JAUNT TO THE FALLS, His character. tleman, fascinating colloquial powers, and music and drawing in great perfection. Many years of his life had been spent in travelling. He had visited Egypt and Pa- lestine ; had travelled through Turkey and Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal, and France ; and had resided for con- siderable periods of time in Rome, Naples, and Paris. While at the Falls, business brought him in contact with several of the inhabitants, with a few of them he would sometimes be sociable ; to all others he was distant and reserved. His conversations were always interesting, and his descriptions of countries and people highly glow- ing and animated. But at times, even with his favored acquaintance, he would hold no converse ; but commu- nicated to them his wishes, on a slate, and would request that nothing might be said to him. He would frequent- ly, for three or four months together, go unshaved ; often with no covering on his head, and his body envel- oped in a blanket; shunning all, and seeking the deepest solitude of the island. He composed much, and gene- rally in Latin ; but he destroyed his compositions almost as fast as he produced them. When his little cot was examined, hopes were entertained that some manuscript or memorial might be found, of his own composition ; but he left nothing of the kind. His faithful dog guarded his door, and was with difficulty pursuaded aside while it was opened. His cat occupied his bed ; and his guitar, violin, flutes, and music books, were scattered around in confusion. There was a portfolio, and the leaves of a large book ; but not a word, not even his name, was written in any of them. Many spots on Iris Island are consecrated to the me- mory of Francis Abbott. On the upper end of the island he had established his walk, and in one place it had be JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 35 His walks — his temerity. d d a- y» n- s. th Id lid I i come trodden and well beaten, like that on which a sen- tinel performs his tour of duty. Between Iris and Moss Island, there is embowered in seclusion and shade, one of the most charming waterfalls, or cascades, imaginable. This was his favorite retreat for bathing. There he re- sorted at all seasons of the year. In the coldest weather, even when snow was on the ground, and ice in the water, he continued to bathe in the Niagara. On the lower extremity of the island, tfltere was a bridge leading over what are called the Terrapin Rocks ; from this bridge th re extended a single piece of timber, some twelve or fifteen feet over the precipice. On this bridge it was his daily practice to walk ; with a quick step he would pass the bridge, advance on the tin^ber to the extreme point, turn quickly on his heel and walk back ; and continue thus to walk for hours together. Sometimes, he would let himself down at the end of the timber, and hang under it by his hands and feet for fifteen and twenty minutes at a time, and this over a chasm so terrific, as to make dizzy the strongest head. On being remonstrated with, for thus exposing himself, he would reply, that, on crossing the ocean, he had frequently seen the sea-boy in much greater peril ; and, as he should pro- bably again pass the sea, he wished to inure himself to such dangers : if the nerves of others were disturbed, his were not. In the darkest hours of the night, he was often found walking alone, in the wildest and most dan- gerous places near the Falls ; and at such times he would shun the approach of men, afs if they were unwelcome in- truders on his solitude. He had a stipend allowed to him by his friends in Eng- land, competent for his support. B'!e attended to the state of his accounts, very carefully ; was economical in r^ V itp u i 36 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. His opinion of the Views. his expenditure of money for his own use ; but generous in paying for all favors and services, and never receiving any thing without making immediate payment. He had a deep and abiding sense of religious dudes and decorum; and was mild in his behavior, and inoffensive in his con- duct. Religion was a subject he appreciated, and seemed well to understand. The charity he asked from others, he extended to all mankind. What, it will be inquired, could have broken up and destroyed such a mind as his ? What drive him from society, which he was so well calculated to adorn, — and what transform him, noble in person and intellect, into an isolated anchorite, shunning the association of his fellow men ? The mystery he never unfolded, and his friends have remained silent on the subject. He was about twenty eight years of age, at the time of his death. With the scenery of the Falls, he was perfectly infatu- ated, and expressed himself in the most rapturous terms, when he spoke of the beautiful retreats of Ii is Island. He was asked, why he did not take up his residence in Canada, under his own government — among his own people ; and, as he preferred being near the Falls, he could there select a place to suit him, as the views on that side were considered, by many, the best. His reply was, that he preferred this side, because, in all that was interesting and beautiful, the American scenes around the Falls were decidedly superior. I JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 37 Alexander's Leap. 'g Alexander's leap. " My thoughts came back. Where was I? And numb, and giddy-, pulse by pulse Life reassumed ita lingering hold; And tlirob by throb, till grown a pang, Which for a moment would convulse, My blood reflow'd, thougli thick and chill; My ear with uncouth noises rang; My heart began once more to thrill ; My sight return'd, though dim, alas ! And thicken'd as it were with glass — Methought the dash of waves was nigh ; There was a gleam, too, of the sky, Studded with stars : it is no dream.'* Cold, At a spot, about thirty rods from the Falls, a thrilling incident occurred in 1836. A number of men, employed upon the Lockport and Niagara Falls rail road, were one night carousing at a small tavern, in the village. A dispute, upon some re- ligious subject, arose between a party of Irishmen and a few Scotchmen, who happened to be present. The Scotchmen soon found it necessary to retreat to another room ; but the Irish blood, excited with whiskey, was up, and they rushed in upon them, swearing death and destruction upon *' Luther's breed." It had become one of those fierce and fatal rows, where reason is lost in passion and intoxication, and in the whirlwind of ex- citement, blows are dealt, and life is taken ; and from which, happy is he who can safely retreat. The Scotch- men rushed through the back door and over the fences, hiding themselves behind trees and stumps. They all succeeded in eluding their infuriated pursuers. One of -'^W' 38 JAUiNT TO THE FALLS. HiH fall from the bank. them, however, by the name of Alexander, though he escaped their hands, yet met with an accident still more dreadful. When he got out of the yard of the tavern, he found himself pursued by several persons. He was not acquainted with the place : it was about 9 o'clock, and quite dark : he could see the woods, as he thought, at a distance. He ran towards iheni : he was deceived by the brush wood and scattering trees growing along the upper bank of the river. As he entered the wood, he renif^m- beredshpping : the slope is about 20 feet, and the per- pendicular height 70 feet : he recollected no more. The next morning, at the beginning of day, he found him- self wounded and bleeding on the rocks. The shelving bank and river on one side, and an insurmountable bar- rier c»f iock on the other. He had never been to the Falls, and did not know that there were stairs to ascend the bank ; but the shantee, at which the workmen lived, he knew was down the river. In hopes of finding some place to ascend, crushed and breeding as he was, he made out to gather himself up, and made his way over the rocks, and through the brakes and bushes. In tliis mutilated state, he crawled along for nearly two miles. The next day, towards noon, his companions began to think of him ; and, as there was snow on the ground, his steps were without difficulty traced to where he had gone over the bank. A party was despatched below. Marks of blood, and the manner in which he had drawn himself along, soon led them to him. They found him on his feet : he had a stick in his hands, over which his fingers were clenched thro' each oth^r, and frozen solid. He was going round and round, and wns then in a bewil- dered state ; and if timely relief had not arrived, he would soon have perished. He was wrapped in blankets, and « JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 39 Fi««h, niul Angling. conveyed to the plnce where he lived. His body Bcvcre- ly injured, and his hands nnd feet badly frost-bitten ; but, with good medical attendance, and careful nursing, he recovered in about three months, with the loss of some fingers and toes. Yet, he is an enfeebled man, and it is not likely that his former strength will ever be restored. FISH, AND ANGLING, *' Tlic f'ilvcr eel, in shining volumes roll'd; Tlie yellow carp, in sculcs letlcck'd with gold? Swilt trouts, diversifie'-l with crimson stains; And pikes, the tyrants of the wat'ry jjlaiiis." There are several places where fish are taken with hook and line, and pleasant sport is afforded to those fond of angling. The best places are between the two sheets of water, on Iris Island ; in the eddy, at the ferry, in Canada ; and at the Whirlpool and Devil's Hole. There are, also, several other places resorted to. The river abounds with a variety of fish : white fish, salmon- trout, pike, pickerel, perch, sturgeon, cat fish, white and black bass, the muscalunge, eels, herring, and many other kinds. On the subject of fish attempting to ascend the sheet of water, one of the party, a traveller, remarks — *' In this, I am reminded how I was amused, many years ag ■7, When I was a youth, I was at the Falls, on some busi- ness ; and, while dinner was preparing, the schoolmaster of the village came in. We commenced talking about the Falls. He communicated to me his whole stock of information ; and, with other things, gravely informed r:~g*v-!»-*-;""'' if 40 JAUNT TO THE PALLS. Hunting CirounilM, tmd Ciiinic. t me that he had sat for hours together, in observing the exertions of fish to ascend the sheet of water. They would rise for about eight feet, and then full back, and attempt it again. Some would spring from the water ; others would ascend the sheet by muscular strength." The story must be put down as fabulous. Yet, cela do actually ascend from thirty to forty feet, on the rocks, among the moss and grass, where the mist from the Falls constantly descends ; and thoy have been there picked up, in considerable quantities : but there is no possibility of their reaching the river above. Eels were not formerly taken on the upper lake ; but they have been often caught in the river below, and car- ried and put alive in the stream above. It was supposed that they again returned, by passing over the Falls ; but, for a year or two past, a few messes of fine eels have been caught in the rivci* above, and carried to the Buffalo market. HUNTING GROUNDS, AND GAME^. The whole extent of country lying east of the Falls, on the American side, is well filled with game. This tract is yet new, a large portion of it being in a state of nature, and deer and bears have not entirely disappeared; though the latter is quite a stranger. A wolf once in n while shows himself, but among a people with whom the rifle is as familiar as the scythe and reaping hook, his career is but short. Foxes, wild cats, racoons, squirrels, and other wild varment, are plenty. Similar descriptions of game are yet found ci* the islanda. JAUNT TO THE FALLS, 41 A Kuine story. For the sportsman, there are clucks, Bonietirncs wild geese, pheasants, quails, pigeons, and woodcocks. The woods of Canada also abound with game of like descrip- tions. Large stories have been related, by travellers, of water fowl alighting in the current, above the Falls, and, before they could rise, of their being drawn over. One authentic instance can only be mentioned. As a gentleman was standing near the Falls, he saw a duck in the water above. It was playing and gamboling in the rapid stream, just where the water begins to curve over the rock. It plunged in, and rose again, several times. At length, it dived too near the suction of the current, and over it went. After very heavy and dark nights, much game in the morning is frequently picked up, in the river below ; such as wild geese, ducks, and swans, a bird not com- mon to the country. They fall in the current, in the darkness of the night, or dash themselves, in their pas- sage, against the rocks or sheet of water. They are found dead, or disabled, with broken legs or wings. An old English magazine, called the " Magazine of Magazines," pretends to give '*a true account of Niaga- ra Falls, in America." Among other things, it states that the Indians, in their canoes, sometimes passed the Falls in safety. That the quantity of game drawn in, and carried over the Falls, was so great, that on a time the French garrison, at Fort Niagara, consisting of 1000 men, becoming destitute of provisions, were subsisted for three months on the game picked up below the Falls. Surely, travellers, in those days, understood how to exaggerate full as well as those of modern times. i .. ^?Si£ill^iJtij>V &liiK ,^■^.^■:^■%^-^ 42 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. Koad down the bank. ROAD DOWN THE BANK. Hi i Between 80 and 100 feet from the Falls, the party arrive at a large excavation in the bank. Great quanti- ties of earth have been washed away by the action of wa- ter conducted in a race from the rapids for that purpose ; and mnescs of the rock have been blasted loose, and thrown down. It is the commencement of a carriage- road to the ferry. The rond down the bank, in Canada, was completq^ J 2 or 14 years ago, and this was begun soon after. Very little progress was made, and it was soon discontinued. In 1836, it was recommenced, un- der the auspices of Benjamin Rathbun; and if his opera- tions had not been brought to a close, it would uoon have been completed. One of the party remarks — ** this, and the Welland Canal, connecting the two lakes, are the only laudable enterprises, undertaken by Canadians, that I have heard of, in which they have gone a-head of the enterprising people of New York." Such will not long be the case. The great canal, around the Falls, will assuredly, ere long, be construct- ed ; and the gentleman, to whom the road belongs, will not long delay its completion, after the difficulties that now convulse Canada are brought to a settlement. When this work was first commenced, an Irish la- borer was employed on a projecting rock, of several tons weight. Very unexpectedly, the rock gave way, and both went down the bank together. Fortunately, the rock passed down first, struck a heap of earth below, and rolled out of the way. The man fell on the same heap of earth, and was so little injured that in a few days he was able to resume his work. J JAUNT TO THE FALLS. 43 Thclndiun Lmlder. — Village. THE INDIAN LADDER. A i'ew rods further, nnd the guide points out a notch in the l)onk. Here is the oldest plnco for descending to the Fulls: it is called the Indian Ladder. The ladder consisted of a cedar tree, lying sloping agairat the rocks. The natural branches, and notches cut in the body of the tree, were the only slight helps aflbrded to those who went down. The last person known to have descended, was a hunter, by the name of Brooks. He was in pur- suit of some game, which he had shot, and had fallen below. He got about halfway down, when he slipped, and fell between 20 and 30 feet, an ^ was badly injured. The travellers having now completed their tour to all the most interesting points along the bank, excepting Point View, which is spoken of in another place, con- clude to return to the hotel. VILLAGE OF NIAGARA FALLS. " Lead on — to yonder village lend, Where heaven has happiness decreed For those the blessings prize •, Who seek, in solitary ease, Such joys as innocently please, Nor wish for other joys." In 1805, Augustus Porter, Peter B. Porter, Benjamin Bavton, and Joseph Annin, Esqrs. became, by purchase of the State of New York, the proprietors of a consider- able tract of land, lying immediately adjacent to the Falls 44 JAUNT TO THE FALLS. ■'I i Village — Water-power. of Niagara. They built mills, and laid out a village, which was called Grand Niagara, but was soon changed to Manchester. This name it retained for several years ; but, as much inconvenience arose, from there being several other places in the State of the same name, it was altered to Niagara Falls, which is the name of the post office. In 1813, the village was burnt by the ene- my. After the war, the citizens returned, and it has very gradually increased, since then, in buildings and in- habitants. In 183G, the survey of the village was great- ly extended ; the lands became in great demand, and large sales could have been iiiude at enormous prices. Some lots were sold ; but the owners preferred retaining their property, rightly judging that the time had not ar- rived for the accomplishment of their enlarged views in disposing of their estates. The water-power, at this place, is unlimited ; and at some distant day must come largely in use, for manufac- turing purposes. There are now one large grist mill, two saw mills, a woollen manufactory, a trip hammer shop and furnace, and two machine shops. Ther6 are, also, two blacksmiths' shops, two cabinet makers' shops, one shop for the manufacture of rail road cars, four mer- chants' shops, one public library, one museum of min- erals on Bath Island, two splendid hotels and three other public houses, two public schools, eighty dwellings of all kinds, and upwards of five hundred inhabitants. The location is commended for its healthiness, and, for rural beauty, it is unexcelled. It affords the finest places for residences, for those who wish to combine elegance of scenery and salubrity of air, of any on the Niagara frontier. ,«,v..^.«. JAUiNT TO THE FALLS. 45 ,3vi Extract from Hooker's Album. The author cannot refrain from closing this part of his work with the following charming lines, from Mr. Hooker's Album : NIAGARA FALLS. " I love to gaze upon that ceaseless rush Of waters ; for it doth raise my full soul To Him, who bids the deep in wildness flow ; Who heaves the mighty flood from rock to rock, And sends it dashing to the dark abyso, Where it doth thunder forth His glorious might, And speak eternally Jehovah's praise. Scarce less I love to gaze upon the circling foam And silv'ry mist; for, on their milder front, I behold the sweet bow of promise, arched — That bow, which, when refulgent on his eyes, And first was sent to cheer his heart, Who mourn'd the ruins of a world,— to hiih It spoke of hope, and peace, and future calm. And, as awe struck, I gaze on yonder flood. All terrible in wild sublimity, Trembling I turn away : — then do I love To fix my eyes on the bright pledge of hope, And think that He who gave it to be ours Is not a God omnipotent alone, But is a God of love— eternal love." ;| 1 r " Niagara Falls, 3d Augt. 1835. ':i u ! ,1 "] J» I AViJ-.i^iiiffiftj'tW^'--' -.-'ii,;' tlio HtrciiTus ? or walk the siuLliug mead ? Or euiui the forest glade? " There are several islands, which, from their locality and peculiar position, in reference to the Falls, have attracted the attention and curiosity of strangers ; and a visit, to some of them, is never neglected by those who have an opportunity. The one most interesting is Iris, or, as it is commonly called. Goat Island. Many years since, a resident at Schlosser put some goats on the island, and hence the name. The present proprietors have given it the name of Iris Island. As that is very appropriate, it is proper thit it should be gv^nerally adopted. It lies in latitude 43 deg. 6 min. and longitude 2 deg. 5 sec. west from Washington city ; and contains be- tween 6i) and 70 acres. Though the soil is an accumu- lation of earth upon aheap of rocks, yet it is very fertile, producing all the native plants of the country in great luxuriance. A circuit round it, which visiters usually take, is about a mile. By the Boundary Commissioners, who were appointed under the Treaty of Ghent, it was very properly adjudged to belong to the United States ; and the Indian title being extinguished, it fell into the hands of private individuals. Just at theupper endof the island, commence the terrific rapids that lead on to the Falls. There the river divides ; the main body passing on the south-western side, and the lesser on the north-; eastern. The lower end of the island is like the main i \. 1 Ji -<,aiK.-i-i,-*'- alacles appeurinjj almost insurmountahle. " THE li lil 1) (i R TO THE ISLAND. I t; P 1 The constniftion of iliirt I^idi^c appeared almost in- credible to an individual who h ipix-ned lo he at this place when the work was fjjoini;- {'orwiird. One or two ol' the pierw only were laid down. lie inquired ol" one of the workmen, the object ol' the bridge, nnd to where it was goin<.^. '' To the island," Wiis the re])Iy. '' 1 don't want to live any lonf-er," siiid the stranger, '' than until you get this bridge lo the island." He could not be convinced that its construction was practicable. It was built by firs; erecting piers ne:ir the shore ; long timbers were then projected beyond them. After which, two subslaniiai posts or sluds were let down, nnd rested on the bottom, at the end of the projecting timbers, which were firmly secured to them, and sup- ported them, until a small crib, filled with stones, was sunk. Then the large timbers for the piers were framed, put down, and fastened to the small crib. They were then filled with stones, the string-pieces put on, and the planks laid. After one pier and bent were completed in this manner, the long timbers were again moved for- ward, and another, and another constructed, until the whole were finished. The projectors were Judge Porter nnd his brother. Gen. Porter, who are the owners of the island. The original cost of the bridge was only about sixteen hundred dollars ; but, since its erection, there have been various expenditures upon it, making it to amount to much more. r JAUNT TO THE ISLAND. 55 Red Jacket. Tlio creation of this bridge line univeranlly received the coniinrudiilion of travellers. It emibles them, with n triflin^5 oxpenne, to viHit ihc i.shind with ftall'ly and convenience ; nn undertaking whi'ch, hefore, was at- tended with considerai)lc expence and sonic exposure to danger. It has tlirown open to the j)ul)lic view, one of ihe wonders of tlie worhl, which, to the grealc.Mt propor- tion of visiters, could only before be seen at a distance. The income of the bridire is considerable, but no more tlian a fjiir return for such a work. Too much credit cannot bo bcslowed ui)on the jvenius that suggested the project, and so substantially cxeeuteil it. The celebrated Indian Cliief, Red Jacket, passed over the bridge with one of the proprietors, shortly after it was comi)leied. 1 lis sinister feelings towards white men, rind his envy of their superiority over his brothers of the forest, are well known. As he walked along, the min- gled emotions of hate, envy, and adnuration, which rankled in his bosom, were expressed every little while, as he looked on the dashing waters, firm piers, and se- <'ure superstructure, with '' Yankee," <'—___ Yankee," applying an ointhet not proper to mention, though easily guessed, — one demonstrative more of spite dian good will. Sv I r IMPROVEMENTS O:, IRIS ISLAND. Besid'^s making a new and enlarged bridge to the island, in which work the proprietors are now engaged, General Peter B. Porter is adding some other improve- ments, which will considerably enhance the attractions I 56 JATTNT TO THE ISLAND. Improv^ementa on Iris Island. W of this secluded place. The garden he is embellishing with much taste. He is enclosing a park, of eight acres, which he intends to stock with deer, and other native denizens of the forest. His fish-pond, which is almost completed, will be filled with fish from the river and lakes ; and not of less interest to the travelling gour- mand, will be a poultry yard, of four acres, with all the suitable requirements for the noisy community, consist- ing of common fowls, ducks, geese, turkeys, the ever chattering peahen, and strutting peacock. A dam and small embankment is now in forwardness, to conduct a stream of water from the Niagara river to a reservoir ; thence to the fish ^ond, the garden, the park, and poul- try ; and to irrigate the island in various directions. To these, the General intends to add a small, but elegant, romantic-like cottage, for occasional summer use. n 4 Arriving fJ, Bath Island, the travellers ascend the bank, enter the toll-house, and pay the charge of twenty-five cents each ; which gives the individual the privilege of visiting the island during his stay at the Falls, or at any time thereafter for the current year. They register their names, and look at the Indian and other curiosities, which are kept there for sale ; and generally make some purchases, as remembrances of the Falls, or for presents to friends or children. I JAUNT TO THE ISLAND. 57 Bull) Island. BATH ISLAND. (( Sounds The isle is full of noises, - that give delight, and hurt not." A traveller thus speaks of this island : *' It is itself a curiosity worth beholding. To visit this, alone, would be worth the cost of the Inidge which leads to it. Why, it is a perfect chaos ! How the waters rush and roar along, beating vainly against the impregnable rock to which it is fast bound. Those trees and green patches ; this broken surface and firm rocks are all in ir son with each other* Nature has charms here, amid the boister- ous waters of the Niagara, that I little imagined." This island derives its name from the baths which are kept there, comprising a shower bath, and cold and warm baths, according to the wishes of those who desire to use them. The whole area of the island is only about an acre and a half. On the south side of the island is a paper manufactory, belonging to the Messrs. Porters. It is one of the lar- gest and best conducted in Western New York, and in which paper is made with machinery, of the latest im- provement. The rags are put in the engine, and are passed out through the machinery, in one continuous sheet of paper, dry and finished for use. The islands observed just above Bath Island, are Sloop and Brig Islands. A foot-bridge formerly extended to them, and they were a favorite resort of visiters in the warm afternoons of summer. The shade of the trees, the commotion of the surrounding water, and the cool breeze that constantly agitates the air, make them, for Bociai parties, a delightful retreat for an hour or two. .1 •, I 58 JAUNT TO THE ISLAND. American Flag placed in the Rapids. n J Having passed, with much admiration, the bridge which spans the beautiful and rapid piece of water which courses along, between Bath and Iris Islands, they arrive upon the latter island. Before the bridge was built, Iris Island was visited by boats, running down between the two currents, to the upper point of the island. To strangers, the navigation npi)earcd very hazardous, and it was not without danger. In the severe winter of 1829, the great accumulation of ice, in the river, formed a communication from the main sh »re to the island ; and, though the bridges were then buat, yet many persons, for curiosity and a ramble, preferred crossing over on the ice. In that winter, all the adjacent islands were accessible, and were visited by many persons ; and the American flag was planted on a ledge of rocks in the middle of the stream above Brig Island. There, surrounded by the dashing waves, it floated gallantly during the succeeding summer, to the admiration and wonder of strangers, of how it came there. A DARING ENTERPRISE. " From a J)oy, I wantoned with thy breakers — they to me Were a delight." The most hardy and daring enterprise known of late years to have been performed upon the rapids of the Nia- gara, was undertaken by Mr. Joel R. Robinson and Mr. John Smith. There was observed to be in the river be- low Bath Island, hanging to the rocks, and waving in the water, something that had the appearance of cotton ,«i«r««-*<>*~ JAUNT TO THE ISLAND. 59 A story. 36 cloth. These persons got a boat, and hiunched it in the river near the paper-mill floom. Robinson was to ma- nage the boat, and Smith to secure the prize. They succeeded in going very near the point of the island which lies to the south-west of Bath Island, and just above the Falls. They secured two pieces of domestic sheetings, and returnel in safely, Robinson having ma- naged the boat over the driving and impetuous water in perfect self-possession, and with apparent ease. Iris Island had been often visited both by the French and English, previous to the Americans coming in pos- session. The initials of names have been found upon the trees bearing a date as far back as 174*2. In an old English magazine, it is related, that on a time two In- dians were, by accident, cast on the island. They made ropes of the bark of trees, and pnssed down the lower bank to the river, but being afraid to enter in between the two sheets of water, returned. An ingenious French blacksmith, belonging to a corps of artificers, who were then in this quarter, seeing their suffering and perilous condition, constructed a pair of stilts, by which means he passed over safely to them, carrying them supplies ; and by the same means finally succeeded in getting them off. The story is doubted, but it is not altogether in- credible. Some years ago, the construction of a bridge over the roughest part of tha river, to the same place, would have been considered more impracticable than the performance just mentioned. On ascending the hill, from the bridge, three walks are presented : one to the right, leading to the Riddle Staircase and to the Horse Shoe Fall ; the one in front, goes directly across the island ; and the one to the left, passes near the edge of the bank, to the upper end. il i I ffl ! S - ^1 *' 60 JAUNT TO THE ISLAND. The Grove.— The Hog's Back. The party continue the jaunt, taking the road lending to the Biddle Staircase. It is the course usually taken. On advancing a short distance, they enter a lofty grove of trees, through which the walk passes for some dis- tance. It is onr of those delicious places for which na- ture has done every thing, and to which art can add no- thing. The road that passes through it, accomplishes all that ever should be done, nnd the sound of the axe should never be heard upon these trees, to disturb the stillness which reigns around this spot, or to profane what nature seems to have consecrated. As the road nears the lower end of the island, the height of the bank, from the edge of the water, increases; from which circumstance, appears, this part of the island has received the name of the Hog's Back. The nam^ is considered very inappropriate, and inapplicable ; but, as some travellers have spoken of the Hog's Back, as being something peculiar, it has been thoii ht proper thus succinctly to refer to it. At the north-western corner of the island, there is a fine prospect of the river, of Canada, and of the Ameri- can Falls, suitably so termed, as they are entirely within the United States. The actual boundary is in the centre of the river, between the island find Canada, and must be about the middle of the Horse Shoe Falls. By some means or other, the public have been led into a mistake on this subject, and it has been by many supposed that the principal Falls were in Canada. Some have even spoken of '* the Niagara Falls, in Canada." The truth is, a portion of the Falls is exclusively in the State of New York, and also half of the main channel, as it con- stitutes the boundary line. »:".'ia?pjH."tW"''f JAUNT TO THE ISLAND, Prospect IsUincl. TROSPECT ISLAND. 61 " Where leaps The torrent in its wild career, While shake its barriers, as in fear." From the point of Iris Island, fronting the American Falls, descends a path towards Prospect Island, some- times called Mrs. Davis' Island, as, while she was visit- ing the Falls, a foot-bridge was thrown over to it, and on its extreme point she planted a few seeds of the ever- lasting pea, which were observed, some years afterwards, in bloom, with their beautiful little flowers hanging over the side of the bank, near the Cave of the Winds. The bridge, to this island, is generally carried away in the winter, and replaced again in summer. It is worth crossing over, to ramble through the tangled evergreens, to look down the high bank, and enjoy the prospect which is there displayed. *'"« INGRAHAMS CAVE. " The weeping rocks distil, with constant dews ; The gushing waters pensive thoughts infuse- Here a vast arch, the cavity so wide. Scarce can the eye extend from side to side. High o'er the roof alternate echoes wave. And sound in distant thunders, through the cave. This cave was first discovered by Joseph W. Ingra- ham, Esq. who gave it the name of Cave of the Winds, one as applicable as any that can be used ; yet, the pub- lic, desirous to award some meed of their esteem t