^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I i tti 112.0 1.8 1.25 U III 1.6 < 6" ^ »/ ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 I r«chnical and Bibliographic Notas/Notoa techniques et bibliographiquet The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checiced below. D D D D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagie Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurte et/ou pelliculAe I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or biaclc)/ Encre de uouleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) I I Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serrie peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de ia marge Int6rieure Bianlt leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutAes iors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmdes. L'Institut a microf limA le mellleur exemplaire qu'il lul a 4t* possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique. qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite. ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m6thode normale de filmage sont indiquAs ci-dessous. |~~| Coloured pages/ D D D n D Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag6es Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur^es et/ou pelliculies Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dAcolortes. tachet^es ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages d6tach6es Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ Quality in6gale de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel suppidmentalre Tl to Tl P< o1 fll O b< th si oi fi( si oi Tl si Tl w M di ei bi ri re If I I Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuiliat d'errata. une pelure, etc.. ont M film^es d nouveau de fapon d obtenir ia meilleure image possible. n Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplimentaires: This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checiced below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de rMuction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 1SX 22X 26X 30X y \ 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X ' I itails I du odifier ' une mage The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Nationai Library of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page v/ith a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — »• (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol y (mean! ig "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grAce h la g*n*rositA de: BibliothAque nationale du Canada Las images suivantes ont AtA reprodultes avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la netteti de l'exemplaire filmA, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimAe sont filmAs en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmAs en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon la cas: le symbols — »> signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmAs d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour 6tre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 A partir de I'angle sup4krieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. arrata to pelure. )n d D 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 TH / T eating concec perfec Hami] never to obi ent di and w by m mana^ used, E handl: to be give e syster duing i cess, £ allot] K-r THE Horse Educator, INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. / This book contains the best known method of Edu- cating, Training and Taming Horses. It is a system conceded, by all before whom it has been exhibited, as perfect in all its points. I have some very valuable ideas differing from R P. Hamilton the most important of which, bitting a colt, has never before been published. My object in placing this work before the public is [to obliterate many erroneous ideas, embraced, at the pres- |ent day by persons who are now iguoraftt of the fact, land will be so, until they receive instructions as tauirlit by me, that a theory is necessary to success in thr management of a horse, no matter Ijovv simple the means used, as long as it brings about the (.lesircd effect. Experience teaches us to simplify the process of handling horses, both for their own good and for the benefit to be derived therefrom. In this volume I propose to give explicit directions in regard to the practice of this system, and the means used by me in educating and sub- duing every horse, thereby showing the secret of my sui - cess, and showing that the system is not only sui)erior to all others in the effect which it produces, but, if practised, of thi is a never-failing remedy for all vicious and unmanage able horses, and the only safe, sure or reliable way of ed- ucating colts ; and is a sure preventative of runaways, kicking or baulky horses. I firmly believe that all thel vicious habits which horses have are acquired through thei ignorance of their owners or trainers. It is only through patient study and perseverance that common sense teaches me a better practice than was ever before given to the public. To show the horseman's superiority over the horse ^ . is the first point to be gained, teaching him that you arel^^ master, he the horse; that through your better judg-^'*^ ^^ ment you have over him perfect control, that his busi- ness is simply to do your bidding, an object that can in no way be obtained except you first gain submission on his part; through patience and kindness, with a thorough knowledge of a theory both easy and sir^ple to practice, incurring slight expense, such as you receive at my hands, so easy is it that a boy ten years of age can, with its as- sistance, manage the most ugly and vicious of horses with ease and safety. ,i,'<;; rec a dog ways mean alwa; other not e posse posse not s doin^ biddi been in a < of a true also by a case be e whe was real to a in t' er judg his busi- at can in lission on thorough practice, ly hands, ith its as- rses with \z\m\$ foi' Youp ^ludg. J'fK'^ nmanage- v&y of ed- •unaways, dt all the rough the y through se teaches When you have taught your horses what is required the horse ^^ them and applied to their understandings by convinc- t vou are ^^ them that, with submission on their part, kindness s received, the one great point is gained. A horse or a dog may be taught almost anything, provided you al- ways use precisely the same idea, show him what you mean, and have the patience to repeat it often enough, always bearing in mind that for us to comprehend an- other's meaning by motions is very difficult, and we do not expect them to have the reasoning powers which we possess ; still, I do believe them to be reasoning creatures, possessing a keen perception of right or wrong ; were it not so, they would not so readily learn to refrain from doing that for which they have been punished, or do the bidding of those they love, and by whom they have been caressed They possess strong affections, and, in a degree, manifest them in accordance with the amount of affection demonstrated by their master. It is also true they know, by instinct, a good man from a cruel one, also that they are quite as well aware when being driven by a coward as is the driver himself or herself, as the case may be. I have often heard it remarked that a horse might be ever so gentle, yet would invariably act nervously when being driven by a lady, and have been asked why it was; it is simply this, the horse knows his advantage and realizes her natural timidity, and when he really ought to act the best is almost unmanageable ; but, if a horse is in the habit of being petted and fondled by a lady he .1 \ soon learns to love and follow her, demonstrating the prin- ciple that love for himself is rewarded. The effects of rude treatment are noticeable, particularly on horses of a sensitive, ambitious nature ; such either fret or are dangerous when subjected to the management of an impulsive irritable groom, though extremely docile and safe with a careful, patient persoiL The great extremes of disposition and character in horses show a peculiar adaption for difierent purposes and requirements. The slow, dull, coarse-grained horse is naturally adapted to the cart or plow, and could not bear the active exertion necessary to great speed, while those of a higher spirit would not submit patiently to this slow drudgery. No animal has more intuition of the feelings, or is more easily encouraged in viciousness by the indications of fear, or more forcibly held in check by a fearless, confi- dent expression of manner than the horse. It is not, however, to be inferred, that not being afraid of a horse is by any means to be considered foolhardiness ; courage and confidence should be dictated by the danger shown ; the expression of the eye, action of the ears, lips, etc., indicate clearly their intentions, dictating the hazard to be incurred, but, whatever may be the feelings, great boldness of expression and action is indispensible. This not only adds to keeping resistance in check, but, under some circumstances, may be the means of pre- serving life. The control of horses is like that of an in- tricate and powerful machine when under the subjection of skillful management ; if horses be subjected to skill- ful and prudent management they will easily be made docile and controllable, on the other hand, being sub- jected to rude, imprudent treatment they are at once liable to become unreliable, hostile and impulsive brutes. The generous reward of this skill should be an in- centive to every one to acquire a correct knowledge of their duty. That there is a great loss of life and many lamentable accidents happenmg almost daily, in every the prin- jffects of >rses of a or are t of an ocile and iremes of peculiar ts. The lapted to exertion ler spirit 3ry. No is more itions of iss, confi- ;t is not, f a horse i courage r shown ; lips, etc., lazard to gs, great e. in check, is of pre- of an in- abjection to skill- be made iing sub- ice liable es. be an in- jrledge of nd many in e\ery xeighbourhood, from the use of horses that are danger- ously vicious and unmanageable, cannot be questioned ; one horse will run away, if given the least freedom, another is liable to kick himself clear from the waggon |f a strap dangles against his flanks, or the breech breaks, br anything else occurs to excite his fear ; one horse ill baulk, another goes when and where he pleases, enerally pleasing to go any way but the right one, nother cannot be harnessed with safety, anotner will ick if the rein touches his hip or is caught under his ail, one will not stand while being mounted, or while you re getting into the carriage, another will not back, thers are frightened, and sheer and jump at sight of a |stone, stump, or paper in the street, while to others an mbrella, railroad track or buffalo robe are objects of ear. There are very few horses which are considered ell broken in, that do not possess some habit that essens their value. It is seen how easily I make the worst of horses ield to my control, and if my instructions are thoroughly ractised, success must inevitably be the result, as I ave heretofore said. The great secret of training horses first to get control of them ; this must be done, not by ear, but through firmness, they must be taught that you an and will be their master ; nothing in this regard is so ffective for the education of horses as my new theory. . 'V i .tl , T|IE HOI(gE EDDdHTOH. : TO HALTER BREAK A WILD COLT. M'.l H it, 'i'j' The first object is to halter the colt. If he is not very wild you can easily do this by working up to his head, and, by gently approaching, place the halter on him, but if he is nervous Sjud vicious, other means must be resorted to. Take a pole, ten or twelve feet long, and gently approach the colt, at the same time be sure and have your colt in the barn, or in some place where he cannot get away from you, raise the pole so that he can see it, then move towards him, but don't say a word, place the pole on his back, if he jumps don't stir, but look him straight in the eye, and you will be surprised to see how soon he will allow you to handle him with the pole ; now gently approach his head and caress him, at the same time holding the pole close to his side, and you can, in twenty minutes or less, teach the colt to follow you like an old horse. When you have got him to follow you, step back and pick up your halter, and, by using a little caution, you can place it on his head. When you have succeeded in haltering him, the next thing is to teach the colt to stand when tied. To do this with safety both for the colt and yourself, take an old bag and place it across your left arm, hold it with the right hand, till the colt begins to move around, at the same time keeping yourself almost in front of the colt and let him turn in this manner for a few times, then before he knows what is the matter bring the bag over his head, and tuck each end under the halter ; he will now stand braced out and there will be no danger of his kicking. Next take a rope about 20 feet long, double it, and place your left hand on the loop end and tie a half hitch about the length of your arms from the loop end, thus forming a large loop, take the loop end in your right hand, and tne halter stall in the left, and gently let the top drop over the colt's hips, let it drop till it strikes gambrel; now take the other ends of the rope and pass them through the halter, one on each side of the stall ring and tie your colt to a post or fence, he will pull back for a while, but will soon quit, while in this manner you can handle him with the pole, and make him gentle. When he stands perfectly quiet you can remove the blind from his eye and go over him again with the pole till he will let you caress him nicely. Then you can untie him, and, if he refuses to lead, pull straight ahead, and with the assistance of the loop he will readily lead ; this is the best way to teach a colt to lead. Never put a rope in his mouth under any circumstances. Now that your colt is broke to lead the next thing is to make him know what a bit is. To do this place a straight bit in his mouth, at the same time take a strap about ten inches long, and strap the mouth shut, be sure to have the tongue under the bit, and leave it in this way till he stops fighting with the bit. You can now commence to make him accustomed to the things in which he has to work. The best thing ever found to gentle the colt and make him ready for hitching, both single and double, is my horse controller, which consists of two poles about 8 feet long, and a cross-bar of forty inches (for a cross-bar you can use a two by four, or a four by six), bore a hole three inches from each end of the cross-bar, and also bore a hole in each of the poles, four inches from the large end, flatten the upper side of the poles where the cross-bar will rest, and drive two pins through bar and pole, thus making a pair of fills; now fasten the corners with a rope or strap so as to make it solid, then take a grain bag and stufi' with straw, as full as you can, and tack it fast to the front of the cross-bar, now tie a rope, about six feet long, to each corner of the bar, and also four feet from the bar, up the lills, make the two ropes the same length and drive four staples and rings in tne beams of a good double stall, and leave a quiet horse in the stall, then hang the fills so that the bar will be against him all the time and now you can raise the fills to the ceiling and fasten them there, then blind-fold your colt and lead him in the stall, h't the fills down on him gently and tie him to each side of the stall and take olt'tlie blind. Don't let the fills down too low at first, but let them down according as the colt will bear, till you nsieh his heels. Let him stand in thetn every day with the liarnoss on and a bit in his mouth, aiul ill three days you will have him hiokenin,and he will iu;v r bt* ut'raid of the (ills or pole of bu;^-gies, and if he kicks iic can't liurt neither himself nor you. i have woikvd this nicthod with great success in the United States and Canada for kickers. The next thing to do is to teach your colt to drive ; ill order to do this as it ought to be done you require two poles, ten feet long, and a staple drove about six inc es from the small end, bore two holes, one through each pole, about four inches from the large end, pass the rope through the holes, so that the poles will be about three feet apart, then fasten two snaps, one to each of the staples, take the colt into a good sized yard, and have a single harness on him, pass the tugs through the breechin rings and tie secure, then take down your lines, only fastening them to the bit, don't put them in the terrets rings but have them free ; now, gently as possible, let your ofi^ line drop over the colt's quarters, at the same time pull with the left line slightly, which will start the colt around, but he cannot kick or harm you the least : when driven in this manner for a short time, you I a rope in bag ; fast to nx feet jt from length a good n hang le time fasten in the to each bhe fills J as the band in mouth, he will d if he in the drive ; ire two inc es h each le rope t three of the have a •eechin 3, only terrets ble, let same Etrt the >u the le, you 1 9 can reverse him. and, after doing this for a short time, you can take the poles and spread them apart, so as to walk the colt between them, then pass to the off side and pick up your pole and snap into the buckle of the tug, or the buckle of the fill-holder. When you get the off side fastened you can pass to the near side and fasten in the same way ; now stand almost opposite his weathers and pull slightly on the left line, after driving in this manner for a short time you can reverse him, and when he becomes docile you can take the pole for handling him and rattle it all you please, he will soon become docile and turn just as you want him, and the colt, is fit to be hitched. I advise every man to hitch his colt double, with a good honest horse for once or twice, then, after a lesson or two in the poles, you may hitch him to a cart for a few times. I have broken in more colts by this way of handling than any other professional, 1 mean, by that, that the colts I handled were thoroughly broke in. Your colt is now broke to drive, but be sure not to ovprdo him. Keep the whip in the socket, never use harsh bits, keep ropes away from the mouth and never tire your colt, but encourage him all you can, for by doing so he will learn to love you. . ''< '.-.• ,! TO TEACH THE COLT TO RIDE. The best way I ever found was to lead the colt out into a large yard with a common halter on him, take a short hold of the halter with the left hand and gently work your nght hand down his back and quarters till you reach his tail, now catch the tail with the right hand and circle him till he stops, then quietly tie a knot in his tale and pass the halter-stalk through, tie in a slip knot, and draw the head around enough to make him whirl, then let him go and he will soon stop, then untie and reverse 10 r' ii.a)Ai kwJ»*^ his head and let him again whirl till he stops, now steip up to the colt on the near side, reach over and catch the halter-stalk, now spring on his back, and if he attempts to throw you pull on the stalk and he will soon find out that he cannot do so ; as soon as he quits untie the rope, but keep it through his tail, so that if he starts to run or buck you can draw his head and tail together. By this method you can take the wildest colt and in twenty minutes he will allow you to ride him. If you want him to become used to the saddle use the same method ; a few lessons of this kind will make your colt a gentle horse to ride. '''''" — - ' . - . '; " ,M'.»fii HOW TO BREAK THE BAULKER. * I r * J n f •-' This is a very bad habit which lots of our best horses have. Baulky horses seldom have any friends, and are knocked around by every person until they come to the conclusion that they will receive the same abuse whether they baulk or not, for their driver is always watching them, and has no confidence whatever in his horse, nor his horse in him. Baulky horses are generally of a nervous temperament and the least excitement causes the blood to rush to the brain, thus for a minute he does not know where he is, and tries to get over the other horse's back, supposing it to be a fence or some other enclosure, then comes the rush of fury to the groom and he will fly into a passion, beat and abuse the noble animal till it becomes enraged ; this is quenching fire with hot coals. There are other horses called baulky of quite a different temperament, I call them the dummy, because they are stupid and has no intelligence whatever ; you may teach one to-day, and to-morrow he is the same, I claim there is no man, nor ever has there been one who can give such a horse the knowledge and tractability to enable him to appear with that graceful appearance that the intelligent horse does. But we have no right to ex- 11 ow step itch the .ttempts find out he rope, to run By twenty )u want nethod s er. ; : a gentle our best ' friends, ley come ne abuse s always er in his Generally citement a minute over the or some be groom ihe noble hing fire laulky of dummy, whatever ; le same, I one who ibility to ance that ht to ex- pect more of the poor horse than we do of man, and you are aware that there are lots of men who, if told to do a certain job and showed how to do it, could not in fifteen minutes do the job unless you kept telling them how, and others again you have to drive, so comparing both I leave it with the reader to decide for himself whether he may expect much from such a horse. Come back to the high-tempered horse and you will find him one of the most tractable horses, and if treated any way rightly he will be your best friend, I would sooner buy one of these horses than any other, for just as sure as you convince them that you want them to go, and that you won't abuse them they will try their best to please you, but you must really like a baulky horse before you may expect him to please you. . • . If your horse refuses to go take a rope and make a loop, same as for halter-pulling, and place it on him, if he is in double harness, pass the ends through the hame rings of the harness, then tie it to the other horse's hame, now uncheck him and let the bits drop almost out of his mouth, and start the quiet horse and you will find the baulker coming. If he baulks whilst in sin<]fle • • • harness, use him in the poles till he stops and starts at your bidding, then hitch him to a bui^gy, use as few words as possible, always approaching him as a friend. I once traded for a baulky mare, she was a beauty, but they abused her so much, that she would not tighten a trace for any person. They thought that I was a granger and proposed having lots of fun with me when I hitched my new mare. I quietly harnessed her, and after doing so, I hitched her to my buggy, and bade them good-bye ; but they all laughed, which was as much as to say, " you are not going," but, to their surprise, I started, and drove home. I might also state that she was the most trusty mare I ever drove in my life, she would pull every time I told her, and I sold her for $1 40, after using her for three years. before I fifo any further, that might just you, go any I t !' if you ever expect baulky horses to work, you must first win their confidence and then treat them well, give tliem good collars, and never load them too heavy. THE KICKER. This is a very bad habit which always has a cause. Some times one thingf will cause a horse to kick, and other times another thing, but I believe most of horses are spoilt by harsh treatment, by the use of ropes and severe bits in the mouth. Use a horse just the same as you would use a colt, start by putting the halter-pulling rope on him and use the handling pole, then harness and drive him till he yields. Hitch in the poles, and be sure and have his mouth strapped shut ; when you give him two or three lessons in this way he will soon stop his tricks and you can drive him with safety, when you hitch a kicker or baulker, never put the lines in the terrets because you have more control over him by leaving them out, and can lead him around and sit in the buggy. Always use my bit on a kicker and talk only as little as possible, but have what you do say understood. This treatment will work satisfactory on a runaway horse, or a nervous or wild colt. In using my theory you will find that judgment and kindness are the ruling powers in it, and I will further stu,te that if you ever expact to become a horse tamer you must first learn to control your own temper before you can undertake to control a horse, for it requires a man of superior judgment to handle a vicious horse. 13 McPherson's Horse Controller. r:ix -jj.; :.^i:ii^ This horse controller consists of forty feet of half inch rope, and is used for horses of a vicious disposition, that will kick or strike while entering their stall or while cleaning them. It can also be used very success- fully, on kicking horses or horses of a vicious disposition. It makes a complete harness, breeching, back-band, collar and belly-band, hold-backs and all complete. It is impossible for a horse to kick or to strike whilst in this harness. . . ,- . .. > ''. DIRECTIONS FOR USE. Take a forty foot rope, double it and tie a half hitch on the loop end, leaving a loop large enough to drop over the horse's hind quarters, and rest about where the breeching does. Tie another half hitch on the rope, running along the back so that the knot will rest just back of the weathers. Put the rope on each side of the weathers and bring it down to the breast, cross the rope and pass it back to the loop over the quarters, and then pass the end from the under side, about where the Ibreeching ring is placed. Bring the rope back to the side, [about where the back-band would fit. Take a half hitch I from the upper side of the rope, passing from breast to ibreeching, cross the rope under the belly and take another half hitch from the under side of the last rope mentioned, bring up and tie to the rope passing along the back. ! |i m ii! i II 14 TO PREVENT A HORSE FROM STRIKING. If the horse is a striker untie the end of the weathers, pass it down between the front legs and bring it back over the arm, take a half hitch around both ropes, and tie as before mentioned. Now you can pass around the horse in safety, curry his leg, or doctor spavins or any other thing you wish, as it is impossible for the animal to kick or strike while wearing this horse controller. li TO BIT A COLT. Take twelve feet of common clothes line, double it and tie a half hitch on the loop end, leaving a loop long enough to pass over the colt's upper jaw. Pass both ends of the rope up the forehead, and tie a half hitch around the fore -lock. Bring one end down on each side of the colt's head, cross them under the neck and pass the ends from the upper side through the loop around the upper jaw. Fetch up and tie to the loop around the upper jaw. This learns a colt to keep its mouth shut, which is the most important thing to teach a colt. He will never be a bit lugger nor lap his tongue out if broke in this manner. Judgment should be used in putting this on a colt, it should not be left on too long for there is a danger of spoiling a colt by keeping him tied too long in this man- ner. In all cases use kindness as your main guide, for my whole theory consists of kindness, and gives me this great power superior to all other professional men, over this noble animal. A SIMPLE WAY TO TEACH A HORSE TO BACK. Place upon the colt a common halter, take the halter in your left hand and with the right thumb gently touch your horse on the breast inside of the shoulder-blade i I of the id bring bh ropes, \ around IS or any t animal >ller. louble it oop long oth ends ound the ihe colt's ids from per jaw. ,w. This ihe most be a bit anner. >n a colt, anger of his man- aide, for J me this icn, over BACK. he halter tly touch er-blade You will find the colt will back readily. This is much easier than punishing the poor colt's mouth, and you can learn it to back in fifteen minutes, for if a colt will make one step back he will make ten, and if he will make ten he wiU make forty. ,, • ,. ,^^,,, '.,,„^, i ,,,;, , , HANDLING THE FEET. ;r .!„',,[ Take a common halter-stalk or a piece of old line about six or eight feet long, make a loop on one end of about six inches, place a blindfold on the horse and take the strap in your right hand and pass it through between the front legs, catch it with the left hand and pass the end of the strap through the loop, let it drop below the fetlock, hold the halter-stall with left hand, pull with the right hand on the strap around the fetlock pull straight out and hold till the horse stops moving his foot. Then gently catch the line with the right hand, make a loop of the strap ever the arm and around the foot, and draw the foot up close to the arm, now pass the strap from the outside of the arm to the inside of the foot. Draw up tight and fasten with a half hitch. Reach to the hind leg and gently caress the muscle above the hock. Reach over and catch the horse with your right hand on the wethers and pull him towards you, this will prove to the horse he must stand on the opposite leg and not depend on the leg strapped up. You can then untie the strap and gently caress the leg and let it down gently, then take the strap in lihe left hand, place it around the hind leg, about six inches above the gamble, draw it well around, so that the loop comes on the inside of the leg, gently tighten the strap, always being careful to turn forward, this will paralyze the leg, when the horse rests on his toe, you can unslacken the strap, letting it drop half-way between the gamble and fetlocks, then take a position opposite the horse's hind legs, holding the halter-stall in your left hand, pull the I'll i 16 horse's leg out sideways and hold it there until he quits kicking with the foot, when he stops moving the leg gently approach and catch the toe with your right hand, under the strap, and put the leg down gently, treat the other side in same manner. A few lessons of this kind will cure the most vicious horse so that you can handle his legs with safety. After giving him the first lesson, when picking up the front foot shove the wether gently with the left hand, and pick up the front foot with your right hand. When you pick up the hind foot catch the place where the strap was with the right hand, about six inches above the gamble, draw the foot gently forward and as soon as he raises the foot catch it half-way between the gamble and fetlocks with the right hand. In this way you can handle the feet in safety. Making a Horse used to Buffalo Robes, Umbrellas, or other ottjects of Fear. Place on the horse a common strap halter, take the halter stall in your hand close up to the horse's head, lay the robe across your left arm, gently press to the right, at the same time, bring the robe up between the horse's eyes, this will cause the horse to stand braced out, and just as soon as the robe strikes his head, his fear is over. He will allow you, then, to rub his head and neck with the robe, now take the robe off the horse's head and place on him the blindfold, tie a knot in his tail, pass the end of the halter-stall through and tie, just short enough to make him circle now spread the robe on the halter stall, then remove the blindfold and let him go, you will have to reverse, for there are always two sides of a horse to break. A few lessons of this kind will break any horse to the use of robes or any other object of fear. d\ e quits the leg t hand, , treat of this '^ou can dng up :t hand, When le strap )ve the m as he gamble yon can lias, or ake the ead, lay right, I horse's fut, and is over, ck with id place the end ough to ier stall, ill have horse to ly horse 1 1 ■ <.■ r,: J » = ♦ .■" *A Recapitulation of Remedies. / Lampass. — Lancing. Bags or Washers. — Cutting and applying alum water or tincture of myrrh and water in equal parts. Sore Mouth. — Tinctures myrrh, aloes and water, equal parts. Uneven I'eeth. — F'iling. ■ . ' Wolf 'J^eeth. Extracting with Dentist's Forceps. Cavies or Diseased 'I'eeth. —Should be extracted. Sore Throat. — Mustard Paste with vinegar or linseed oil, two parts, am- monia one part, applied externally ; powdered saltpetre, half tea- spoonful upon tongue twice a day. St vanities. — Flax seed poultice, steam nostrils, and lancing. Veterinary Surgeon if possible. Influenza. — Tincture of aconite or cryona, ten drops in water every six hours for two days ; then spirits nitre one oz. , extract belladonna two dr., in a pail of water once a day ; a powder of gentian root, saltpetre and anise-seed, each one ounce, sulphate of quinine one drachm, mix and divide into eight powders and give three times a day in feed. Or, powdered chincyosia and powdered quassia, each twooz., powdered anise-seed one oz , mix and divide into four powders and give three times a day in feed. Bathe throat in mustard and vinegar, or with linseed oil three ounces and ammonia one ounce, mixed. Bronchitis. — A ball of nitrate of potassa, pulverized digitalis, and tartrate of antimony half drachm, molasses sufficient to make the ball, once in twelve hours till fever is broken ; the nitrate of potassa one and a half ounce, nitrate of soda six ounces, mix and divide into six powders and give twice a day in mash. Or, extract belladonna, one drachm, spirits of nitre, one ounce, solution of acetate of ammonia, four ounces, give in half pint of water as a drink. Blister throat and sides with fly blister and turpentine, or mustard, ammonia and water, rub in with the hand. Nasal Gleet. — Give night and mornmg one of the following powders : Sesqui-chloride of iron two ounces, powdered cinnamon one ounce, mix and divide into four powders ; or, carbonate of iron, pulverized gentian and pulverized quassia, of each one ounce, divide into four pow- P' ! ■*) 18 ders ; or nux vomica, pulverized, half ounce, linseed meal two ounces, divide into eight powders. Another good preparation is : muriate of barytes half ounce, linseed meal one ounce, divide into eight powders. Broken Wind or Heaves. —Divide half an ounce of pulverized digitalis in twenty parts, and give one part night and morning in the feed, until gone ; or, take asafoetida two drachms, camphor one drachm, mix and give every oth6r night for a week. Injlammation of th& Bowels. — Bleed from neck ; give ten drops tincture aconite every three hours, apply hot wet blankets, inject tobacco- smoke or soap and water ; no food for forty-eight hours. Diarrhaa. — Give every six hours until checked powdered opium one drachm, powdered catechu two drachms, prepared chalk one ounce, mix and divide into four powders. Colic Spasmodic. — Give one ounce tincture opium and one ounce sulphuric ether in half a pint of water ; repeat in half an hour if relief is not ,^^, obtained ; or give the following : tincture of opium one ounce, aro- matic spirits of ammonia half ounce, extract of belladonna one drachm, water one pint, mix. In flatulent colic, give chlorate of potash half ounce, tincture of aloes half ounce, water one pint, mix and drench. Worms. — Calomel, half drachm, tartrate of antimony, half drachm, lin- seed meal, half ounce, mix and give at night ; or, iron filings, two drachms, common salt, half ounce, powdered savin, one drachm, lin- seed meal, half ounce, mix and give every night for a week ; or, asa- foetida, two drachms, calomel, one and half drachms, savin, one and ., half drachms, oil male fern, thirty drops, linseed meal, two drachms, mix with molasses and give at night. Follow either of the above with , . following ball : Barbadoes aloes, one ounce, pulverized gentian, two . drachms, pulverized ginger, one drachm, and water sufficient to make the ball. Another remedy is barbadoes aloes, six drachms, male fern, four ounces, spirits turpentine, two ounces, mix and divide into six balls. Give one three times a day. Kctention of Urine. — Give a ball every night composed of powdered opium half ounce, powdered Rins, one ounce, prepared chalk, one ounce, mixed with molasses and made into six balls. Stone in Bladder. — Muriatic acid, two drachms, in a pail of water once a day. Quitter. — Flax seed meal poultice till soft, then cut away ; inject every day chloride of zinc, two drachms, dissolved in one pint of water. Ihrush. — Wash the feet well with soap and water, and sprinkle a small quantity of pulverized sulphate of copper in the cleft, and secure it by pressing a little raw cotton. Canker. — Take equal parts of pine, tar and lard, add sulphuric acid while melting, and apply to the foot. Scratches. — Wash parts with soap and water and apply once a day, collo- dion half ounce, castor oil one ounce ; or, apply once a week saturated solution of bichloride of mercury. Grease Heels,— Give a ball composed of barbadoes aloes one ounce, pul- verized gentian root two drachms, pulverized ginger one drachm, and water sufl&cient to make the ball ; wash the parts well and poultice for tv sc q' ol Water th Pi se Found gi P^, wi th ev Should Ih W£ nK Sv tir Cappea Bone S be ou oli Curbs. ■ on of mi Blood for Ol Palpita in^ 1 ^' Inflam, it ! of ba( tia inj Gi unl giv or, rel ^tomaci of I fori 19 ) ounces, uriate of )ow(lers. 'italis in ed, until mix and tincture tobacco- turn one i ounce, ulphuric ef is not ice, aro- drachm, tash half Irench. :hm, lin- ngs, two ;hm, lin- or, asa- one and Irachms, ove with ian, two to make IS, male nde into ;d opium 2 ounce, X once a ;ct every ter. J a small ure it by :id while y, collo- laturated ice, pul- hm, and iiltice for two or three days with the followiug : Flax seed meal, mixed with a solution of two drachms sulphate zinc to a pail of water ; bathe fre- quently with glycerine or a solution of zinc, or a solution of chloride of lime. Water Farcy. — Give one of the following powders night and morning in the feed : Sulphate of iron two ounces, nitrate of potassa one ounce, pulverized gentian one ounce, pulverized ginger six drachms, anise- seed ground half ounce, mix and divide into eight powders. Founder. — If the animal is in full condition, bleed freely from the feet and give the following : Barbadoes aloes six drachms, croton oil six drops, pulverized ginger one drachm, pulverized gentian two drachms, mix with water in form of ball ; foment the feet well with hot water and then poultice with flax seed meal for several days ; give in the water, every six hours, extract of belladonna one drachm. Shoulder Strain. — Bleed freely from the plantai vein running down upon the inside of the front legs. Foment the shoulders well with hot water, if the case is a recent one ; if of long standing, a seton will be more effective. The following liniment will be a useful application ; Sweet oil one pint, spirits of hartshorn three ounces, spirits of turpen- tine two ounces ; mix all together ; shake well before using. Capped Hock. — Blister with tincture of iodine, or iodine ointment is useful. Bone Spavin. — When there is external enlargement, active blisters should be applied over the part. Liquid blister : powdered croton seed half ounce, powdered cantharides one ounce, oil of turpentine one pint, olive oil one pint, mix all together and shake well before using. Curbs. — In recent cases, the part should be bathed with tincture of iodine once a day. Take a little bKood from the sephena vein on the inside of the hind leg, above the hock. Should this not succeed, blisters must be resorted to. \ Blood or Boi:; .Spavin. — Use cold water compresses placed upon the joint, for six or eight weeks, by means of a leather socket, made to fit. Old woollen or muslin cloth is the best. Palpitation of the Heart. — The worst cases yield in two hours to the follow- ing simple treatment : Divide one drachm of digitalis into five pow- ders, and give one every fifteen minutes on the tongue. Inflammation of the Brain. — Open the jugular vein as quickly as possible ; it should be done before the mad stage comes on, or it is too late to be of much service. Open the bowels freely - give the following : Bar- badoes aloes one ounce, croton oil ten drops ginger one drachm, gen- tian one drachm ; mix with molasses or honey. Give tobacco-smoke injections, if convenient ; or, soap and water will answer the purpose. Give, on the tongue, every two hours, ten drops tincture of aconite ; until eight doses have been given, and then stop giving the aconite ; give cold water to drink and apply cold-water bandages to the head ; or, bags of ice would be better. Give no food for twelve hours after relief is obtained. 'tomach Staggers.— Give \\it purging ball recommended in inflammation of the brain and bleed freely from the jugular vein ; give no food for forty-eight hours. This is all the treatment the animal requires. 'H SO Poll Evil. — Give the following powder: Pulverized sulphur one pound, black antimony, in powder, half pound and mix together ; dose, one table-spoonful morning and nij;ht in the feed ; no corn or oatmeal should be given ; open the bowels with aloes or linseed oil. Lay the tumor open with a knife and inject into the opening a solution of sul- phate of zinc two drachms, to one pint of water, or the tincture of iodine is very good. C/a;^/,fr J. — Sulphate of soda, in one ounce doses, three times a day has i)een given v.ith partial success, but powder and ball, applied through the medium of a rifle, is the only sure cure ve know of. Farcy. — Q'wt^ one ounce of the sulphate of soda three times a day, or cor- rosive sublimate, in ten grain doses, twice a day The tumors should be opened and causterized, or a red-hot iron applied to each. ' Man^'e. — Take the horse in the can and scrub him thoroughly all over with castile soap and water then wash him well from head to tail with gas water, in which put two drachms of white hellebore to the gallon. Put him in a different stable and use clean harness. SuYjeit. — Give the following : Barbadoes aloes one ounce, nitrate of potassa two drachms, gentian one drachm, make it into a paste with water ; follow this with the following powder : nitrate of potash two ounces, pulverized sulphur six ounces, black antimory two ounces ; mix and divide into sixteen powders and give one morning and night. Hide Hound. — Take sulphur pulverized eight ounces, nitrate potassa pul- verized three ounces, black antimony pulverized two ounce?, sulphate of iron, four ounces ; mix together and give one table-spoonful twice a day. Kheuf?iatism.—OY>tn the bowels with the following : Calomel one drachm, Barbadoes aloes four drachms, alcohol two drachms, linseed meal two drachms, molasses enough to make it into a ball ; follow this with pine , two-and-a-half ounces, made into a ball with flax seed meal ; give one every morning. Poultice the feet with flax seed meal four parts, ground mustard one part, for several days, and bathe the afltected limbs with the following liniment : oil of turpentine, tincture of opium and soap liniment of each one ounce, tincture of capsicum one drachm ; mix all together ; shake well before using. Cramp. — Hand-rubbing is very necessary, and use the following liniment upon the affected part : Alcohol one pint, tincture of camphor half a pint, tincture of opium four ounces ; mix all togerher. Saddle-Galls. — Bathe the parts two or three times a day with the tincture of myrrh and tincture of aloes, equal parts ; or, collodin one ounce, castor oil two ounces ; or, glycerine. Amaurosis. — Give a strong purge ; follow this twice a day with half a drachm doses of nux vomica mixed in the feed ; apply a fly-blister back of the eye. Give no corn until sight is restored. The Hooks. — Open the bowels with the aloes balls recommended in rheu- matism and apply the following wash : Tincture of opium one ounce, ram water one pint ; mix together and bathe the eye three or four times a day. Do not be persuaded to cut out the membrane of the eye, as its removal does injury by impairing its function. one pound, ■ ; dose, one or oatmeal il. Lay the ution of sul- e tincture of ?s a day has lied through day, or cor- mors should ich. hly all over head to tail ibore to the ess. ite of potassa with water ; two ounces, es ; mix and [ht. potassa pul- ce?, sulphate )oonful twice one drachm, ed meal two his with pine a! ; give one I four parts, the affected ure of opium Dne drachm ; ing liniment iphor half a the tincture one ounce, with half a a fly-blister ded in rheu- I one ounce, iree or four )rane of the 21 Simple Opthalmia. — Open the vein under the eye and let it bleed until it stops of itself ; open the bowels and use the following wash : Tinc- ture of opium six drachms, tincture of aconite two drachms, rain water one pint, mix all together and bathe the eye three times a day ; or, use belladonna one ounce, rain water one pint ; mix and bathe the same Speci/ic\Opthalniia» — Give in the feed, night and morning : Colchicum root one ounce, pulverized linseed meal two ounces, mix and divide into twenty powders. Bathe the eye with the following : Belladonna one ounce, rain water one pint ; or, nitrate of silver eight grains, distilled water four ounces, mix ; or, sulphurate of zinc half drachm, diacelate of lead one drachm, water one and a half pints ; or. take a piece of sulphate of copper (bluestone), shave it thin and smooth, and pass it carefully between the eyelid and the eyeball, twice a day, until the eye is cleared up. For the Eye. — Take ten cents' worth of the oil of juniper wood and apply in the hollow of the eye six drops ; rub well ; apply twice per day. For the Stifle. — Fasten a strap around the obiset leg and slip the stifle in place. Take five cents' worth pulverized alum, mix with one pint brandy, bathe the stifle every two hours. Founder. — Pulverized alum one-half ounce, spirits turpentine one-half ounce, the oil of sassafras one-half ounce ; mix and drench. Foment the feet with hot water. Diuretic Drops. — For stoppage of water or inflammation of kidneys: Spirit ether nitrosi four ounces, bals. copabia two ounces, oil juniper two ounces, spirits terebinth two ounces, gum camphor one ounce. Dose, one ounce in half a pint of milk every six hours.