IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET {MT-3) A {./ %, lo /- 1.0 I.I IIM lllllli 1.8 ! 11.25 1.4 1.6 4 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation n>^ V iV \\ ^.^ ft 6^ % «^' 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 \> ^ * Pi? ^^ ^5" 6^ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/iCIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notos techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. n D D D n D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagde Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurde et/ou pellicul6e I I Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes g^ographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intdrieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout^es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6X6 filmdes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl6mentaires: T U L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la methods normale de filmage sont indiquis ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^es n Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur6es et/ou pelliculdes T P o fi G b tl si o fi si o Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages d6color6es, tachet6es ou piqu^es I I Pages detached/ Pages ddtach6es Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Quality in6gale de I'impression I if Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ D D Comprend du materiel supplementaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6X6 filmdes 6 nouveau de fapon 6 obtenir la meilleure image possible. T si T IV d ei b ri r< rr This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X re 6taiis )8 du nodifier )r une ilmage The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: National Library of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. L'exemplaire fiimi fut reproduit grAce d la O^nirositd de: Bibliothdque nationale du Canada Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec ie plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire filmd, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. es Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printe<:3 or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol ^^> (meaning "CON- TINUED "). or the symbol V (meaning "END "). whichever applies. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimde sont filmds en commenpant par Ie premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par Ie second plat, salon Ie cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmds en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon Ie cas: Ie symbole -^signifie "A SUIVRE", Ie symbole V signifie "FIN". Maps, platf);., cst<>rts, etc., may be filmed at different reuuntut -anc^. Those too large to be entirely includea !. ine exposure are filmed beginning in the upper lei*t hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s d des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd. il est film6 d partir de I'angle sup^rieur gauche, de gauche d droite. et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. errata J to e pelure. ;on d n 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 i ■••Hsa^ m^ % LslSdlOIN-E ^ and Sming ^ QTJJs: ORCNCY FALLS ITS ; ." ^:- iROisrs ASD ON A^D OUR TBOUT LAKK8 PJSICX tBetfl. L. J. Dj^«ni A Fr«re Jk-t— .£». =r= .-- -i.f k^lLv TORONTO, ONTA^RIO P|he Rodt giberallu Sonductcd and Bcdt Kanaqed Botcl in ©ntario. Location central to all points of Interest. ROOMS LARGE, AIRY AND EIV SCUTS. THE FAVORITE HOTEL FOR TOURISTS gar GRADUATED PftldES •«» AT.£X. B. CRAIG, Chief Clerk. •£' A. NET.80N, Proprietor i-»i i%ii, HISTORICAL AND SPORTING NOTES ON QUEBEC 11 m EHMONS BY J. M. LeMOINE Author of " Quebec] FMb and PreseTd;" « Chronicles of the Si. Lmorenee;" ".Maple Leaws; "Piebwreeqm Q%ubeCf** etc 4|aebee t9 Kaiitmoreiicl-'4||ieb^ i^ Cap Eo«gt^ i|nebeel;o IndUui Larette— Indian hoittttf^ ' The Knron Cliler-Chalean iBlRot Lake SU John t TheLandoftke Wananlsh Onr Blorthem Trent Lakes Summer and Winter Sperts FOUBTH BDinON ^■. PRINTED BT L.-J. DEMBRS As FRBRE Edttora qT ** £« Canadien " and •* L'^vinement » ,„g^^ 188B c^m\ym'Av^ ■ i,:f:' T , ; V{ I :r i TEntered according to Act of Parliament, in 1889, by J. If. LeMoine, in J:|]|e pj^oe of the Minister of Agriculture, Ottawa. TO HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCESS LOUISE THESE NOTES ON QUEBEC AND ITS ENVIRONS, ETC, ARK BY SPECIAL PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR Spencer Grange, 4th June, 187a, J. M. LeMOINE. 9 i (1 forii QUEBEC TO MONTMORENCI An excellent turnpike road leads past the Dorchester bridge, (erected by Asa Porter, in 1789, and called after Lord Dorchester, then Governor General of Canada) — through a double low of neat cottages and white farm houses, to the foaming cataract of Montmorenci. Previous to 1789, the St. Charles was crossed by a scow ; and, at low water, by a ford. One of the njost conspicuous landmarks in this neigh- borhood towards the shore, at La Canardihe (i), in a line with Hedleyville, is Maizkrets ; a long two story farm house belonging to the Quebec Seminary, where their blue-coated boys, each Thursday, spend their weekly holiday, since time immenv-rial, walking back to the city with the descending shades of evening and awakening the echoes of the Beauport shore with their jolly old French songs : La Clatre Fontaine^ — Par der- nere chez mon Perr^ — En toulant^ ma Boule roulant, &c. ; the usher in charge, with his long black cassock flowing to the night wind, merrily joining in the chorus. In 1778, the historic t»ld mansion was rebuilt, after having been ruthlessly burnt to the ground by Col. Benedict Arnold's rude followers, in the fall of 1775. In 1850, it was enlarged to its present size; a dimi- nutive i>land — christened in July, 1^:52 St. Hyacinthe (2) — was added in the centre of the sheet of water in rear (1) Would Im Canardi^rc have taken its name from being, in former days, the roHort of innumerable canards ? (2) To commemorate the presence of the St. Hyacinthe College boys, then on a visit to the Quebec Seminary scholars. — 6« of the house, and communicating, at high tide, with the St. Lawrence. It is provided with row boats, canoes, &c. This long, narrow pond, served in 1759, in lieu of a ditch, to one of General Montcalm's redoubts ; for a succession of years, in summer, it has been the source of unspeakable delight, on every weekly holiday, to the Seminary scholars. — Crede experto. On the 7th March, 1850, the pupils, in solemn con- clave, and after exhaustive discussion of several names proposed — among which that of Montigny (after the great Bishop Laval, Abb^ de Montigny, founder of the Petit Shninaire in 1668) came prominently to the front — decided that their pleasant trysting place should be known to succeeding generations as Maizerets. Majzereis is the name of the venerable Superior of the Quebec Seminary, during whose protracted tenure of ofifice this valuable property was acquired by this educa- tional institution. Revd Louis Ango des Maizerets closed his career, on the 22nd April, 1721, at the ripe age of 85 years, loved and regretted. The main road, overhung by wide-spreading elms, leads past the lofty, lurreted dome, extensive buildings and pleasure grounds of the Piovincial Lunatic Asylum^ founded in 1845 ; first, in Col. Gugy's roomy stone stables, (i) adjoining the Diichesnay Manor, by three of the leading physicians of Quebec, Doctors James Douglas, Joseph Morrin and Joseph Fremont, and then transferred to the present location. The east wing, occupied by the females, stands on the site of ihe old Chateau di Bonne^ where Judge de Bonne, an active i olitician in his day, and also a learned jurist, resided for years, in the early part of the century. No more suitable, nor healthy locality, could have been selected as a home for the 1,000 (1) This commodious receptacle of Col, Gugy's stud was takei^ 4ow^ w ;88T, " -1- unfortunates, bereft of reason, and over whom the Pro- vincial Government is expected to watch. The streamlet, known as the Hivihe des laupiereSy winds through the leafy seclusion and flows under the rustic iron, suspension bridge of Gienalla, now Villa Mastai During our war with the United States, in 1812-14, ^bis diminutive, though deep brook was assigned as the western limit of the paroled American prisoners — some 40 odd, officers and privates — taken at Detroit, &c. ; among them. Generals Hull, Wincb'^sier and Chandler ; they were at first located in the Chctteau de Bonne. Capt. Mathew Bell's cavalry escorted them to Quebec in the winter of 181 3, and they were placed in the hou^e, No. 8k, St. Louis street — in which the historian Hon. Wm. Smith expired, on 17th December, 1847 — now the resi- dence of Sheriff Chs. Alleyn. Their fellow prisoner, taken at Queenston, Col. (afterwards Genl. Winfield Scott), had the run of the city on parole. Col. Scott won laurels in the Mexican war, and acquired, on account of his bustling activity and love of display, the well remembered sobriquet of old Fuss and Feathers. The stately, athletic Colonel, however lived under parole with Colonel (afterwards Major General) Glasgow, the Com- mander of the Quebec Garrison, in 18 13. In 181 7, we shall find him again, within our walls, an honored guest, under the hospitable roof, at March mont, Grande Alike ^ of Sir John Harvey, who subsequently became Governor of one of the British Colonies. The eastern parole limit of the unhappy (i) warriors was the second stream occurring on the road to the falls : (1) The Qmhcc Mercury of 9th November, 1813, advertises for the capture of Abraham Walter, pilot, native of Grandfield, aged 24 years, who had deserted from Beauport on the 6tli November, 1813. Captain Kempt, the agent for the prisoners of war, offers for his apprehension one guinea reward over and above the Fro^ vincial reward allowed in such cases. — 8 — le ruisseau de tours^ Bear Creek, whose waters yet furnish motive power to mills in the second range of Beauport, and, until a few years back, to an extensive grist mill — now in ruins — formerly owned by the laie William Brown. In 1759, this stream had, at this spot, steep banks, since solidly bridged over, as porii(»n of the public highway. The hollow formerly existing was then designated, and frequently appears in Chevalier Johnstone's and Capt. John Knox's diaries of the siege, as the " ravine at Beau- port." What lively scenes Benedict Arnold's myrmidons enacted in this locality during the crucial winter of 1775-6? Col. Jos. Bouchette mentions the erection here of a distillery, about 1790, by the Hon. John Young. A year or two later, Prince Edward — Her Majesty's father — then a jolly Colonel of Fusiliers, twenty-four years of age, might have been nut, on bright summer mornings, trolling his pair of Norman ponies over the Beauport road, from Haldimand House to the city, with the fascinating Madame de Saint Laurent at his side. Half a century later, in 1841, the Ctue de Beauport, the Revd. Abb^ C. Chiniquy, the idol of the Beauport teatotellers, was raising the Temperance jiillar which now, on the north side of the road, attracts the attention of tourists. Let us hie back to this historic ruisseau de Pours. What gave it its sporting name ? I have a faint remembrance of a bear story, more than two hundred years old, in which the local Nimrod, Seigneur Giffard, whilst lying /^rd?// for wild geese — one spring — on the sedgy banks of this river, is stated to have spied a huge bear roaming in the neighborhood, mayhap in quest of the seigniorial mutton. Gaunt, tired, possibly unconscious of evil intent, Bruin was lapping — 9 — of a than 11 rod, one id to lood, ired, ping the crystal draught of the ntisscau. To substitute in his long duck gun, slugs, for goose shot, was the affair of an instant fur the sporting Laird, and lo ! Bruin's brave spirit wrs wafted to where all good bears go ! Let us cross Bear Creek close to the front door of the Beauport Manor and ask about the Seigneur. " Who was the first Seigneur of this flourishing village ? " I hear you say — Here is what we read in history : Seigneur Robert Giffart or Giffard, Sieur de Beatiporty a native of Perche, left old for New France, in 1627. Later on, we find him an English prisoner of war. Taken on board of Rocmont's fleet, he it was who gave the l)arish its name, and, as its first Seigntur, watched over its feeble beginnings. We shall find him a practising surgeon at Quebec, in 1634 : the calling at that distant time must have been a bit of a sinecure. He applied for and was granted by the Company of New France, the Seigniory of Beauport, on the 14th January, 1634, according to a Parliamentary return printed in 1852 ; on the 31st December, 1635, says Colonel Bouchette. Giftard had several sons and daught- ers ; two of the latter married the brothers Juchereau, the sires of the warlike clan of Duchesnays who occupied the Beauport manor for nearly two centuries. Robert Giffart, a man of importance in his day, was elected Church Warden, at Quebec, in 1646. It is recorded that the Jesuit Fathers selected his house, at Beau pot t, to ct lebrate their first mass The lettered and SI oning Esculapius died on the 14th April, 1668, and was buried in the cemetery at Beauport. Let us now knock at the chief entrance of the Manor ! Had we, with us, Jean Guion, we might possibly have a chance of meeting his worthy contemporary. Frangois Boulle, Seignior Giffart's faithful farmer of the 14th March, 1634. Alas! Both are enjoying their long rest. — 10 — for the last two hundred and fifty years, in yonder rustic necropolis. But I was forgetting that, of the venerable Duchesnay Manor some disjointed ruins are all that^now remain, of a residence endeared to Canadians for having been the head-quarters of the chivalrous Marquis of Montcalm during the thrilling summer of 1759. The circumstance of the sojourn of the French General, at that Manor, had so aroused the cupidity of the Quebec treasure seekers after the hurried departure of the Gallic legions, that cellars and outer courts were more than once dug up for gold and silver, supposed to have been concealed and forgotten there prior to their hurried retreat. These Doustirswivels might have saved themselves much labor, many midnight vigils, suffamigaticns and incan- tations, under suitable planetary influence for searches, — with or without " a hand of glory, by the light uf a taper, manufactured from the fat of an executed mur- derer, — when the clock strikes twelve at midnight " — had they chosen to bear in mind, that during the drooping, closing years of French rule, the chief circulating medium at Quebec was card money, supplemented with Bigot's Exchange on the French treasury — destined to be dis- honored. Some time after the destruction by fire of the old Manor, in 1879, a mysterious inscription was unearthed from the ruins Mrs. Gugy, the owner of the property, kindly forwarded it to the President of the Literary and Historical Society for eximiination. It gave rise to a very lively discussion in the English and French press. The tablet was a circular plate of lead or pewter nine "nches in diameter, one-quarter of an inch in thickness. I he fire had much injured it. It appears to have contained withm its rolls, originally, coins, but the diggers apparently had abstracted them ; also some document, which alas ! — 11 — crumbled into dust when exposed to the air. The ins- cription, as well as can be deciphered, ran thus : I.H.S. M.I.A. (1) LAN 1634 LE NTE 26 IVILBT.IB.BTB-PIiA PRBMIERB.P.O.GIFABT SlIfGNBVR.DE.OB.LIEV (2) The Beauport strand was privileged, by its proximity to Quebec to play a conspicuous part in the numerous sieges which have beset the old city There, in 1690, 1759, 1760, 1775, the invader left in marks of blood, his foot-prints. Some of Canada's most noble sons found there a glorious death, others a no less glorious record of services rendered to their country. During the occupation by the English of Quebec by the Kirkes, 1628-33, Beauport, with the exception of the Ferme des AngeSy had little to do with these unauthorised conquerors, as peace had been proclaimed between England and France, when the Kirkes took Quebec. It was very different in 1690 — J/<^/-(? Juchereau, Monseignat, Walley and Davis, have each a stirring tale to tell. Admiral Sir William Phips' abortive attempt to capture the old rock, on the i6th October, 1690, whilst his second in command. Major John Walley, landed and headed a detachment on the Beauport flats, has brought out credit- ably the successful and stout resistance offered by Count de Frontenac, ** speaking from the mouth of his cannon," and whilst his lieutenants Prevost, Longueuil, de Ste. H^l^ne, at the head, of his regulars and Beaupre and (1) JcBU Hominum Salvator; Maria, Josepli, Anna. (2) For explanation, vide rieturesqtie Qt«e6ec, pages 440-8. -1^- Lorette volunteers, met and routed Major Walley's Puritan Boston host What an exciting discovery it must have been fur the sentinels on the Saultau-Matelot batteries, when they, at day break, on the i6th October, 1690 — spied the slowly moving lights of the Massachusetts fleet, thirty- four armed vessels, gliding past the Point of Orleans, and casting anchor in view of Quebec, thronged with soldiery, — in their French eyes, merciless heretics, who, ** it had been reported, meant to kill them all, after cutting off their ears to make necklaces " ? A grand spectacle awaited Admiral Phips' entrance in our port. As Parkman well remarks : " One of the grandest scenes -16- Who could tell of the fervent orisons and daily prayers sent up to Heaven, during the ever memorable summer of 1759, in the cherished fane, to avert the war of extermination, of which the colony was threatened ? It adjoined Montcalm's headquarters ; its steeple, on the . 28th June, 1 759, was selected by Goven or de Vaiidreuil as a safe and suitable observatory from which he could feast his eyes on the sure destruction of the English fleet, then lying, since the 23rd June, at anchor near the Island of Orleans. Monsieur Deslouches, a French naval officer, had designed and equi|jped at great cost several " infer- nal engines " to wit : five fire-ships and two large rafts, which he had sent down at ten o'clock that night from the Lower Town, with the ebb, to wipe out the Briiish squadron of 60 ships. Capt. John Knox, of the 43rd, an eye witness and accurate observer, in \\\6 Journal of the Siege ^ pronounces the display the grandest fire works, conceivable. Though according to Montcalm, who had no faith in them, they had cost ** a million," they turned out worse than a failure. Some having been set on fire too soon grounded before reaching the fleet ; others were courageously taken in tow by the fearless British tars, in their boats, and run ashore, where their rigging and hulls blazed away until the morning " with no oiher harm, says Parkman, than burning alive one of their own captains and six or seven of his sailors who failed to escape in their boats." Knox relates how the " air and adjacent woods reverberated with sonorous shouts and frequent repetitions of alls wellf from our gallant seamen on the water." The whole of that night scene evidently was one of dismal and appalling grandeur. What would you give for the prospects of promotion in the French Navy, of Deslouches, the originator of this costly and primitive torpedo experiment ? — 17 — Governor de Vaudreuil, dejected and crestfallen, hurried back to his doomed city. Parkman vividly recalls this incident : « There was an English outpost at the Point of OrleanK ; and about eleven o'clock the sentries descried through the gloom the ghostly outlines of the approaching ships. As they gazed, these mysterious strangers began to dart tongues of flame ; Hrc ran like lightning up their masts and stiils, and then they burst out like volcanoes. Filled as they were with pitch, tar and every manner of combustible, mixed with fireworks, bombs, grenades, and old cannon, swivels and muskets loaded to the throat, the effect was terrific. The troops at the Point, amazed at the sudden eruption, the din of the explosions and the showers of grape shot, that rattled among the trees, lost their wits and fled. The blazing dragons hissed and roared, spouted sheets' of fire, vomited smoke in black, pitchy volumes and vast illumined clouds, and shed their infernal glare on the distant city, the tents of Montcalm, and the long red lines of the British army, drawn up in array of battle, lest the French should cross from their encamp- ments to attack them in the confusion." (^Muntcalm and Wolfe, Vol. II, p. 211) The Montmore ici falls are still known to old French peasants as La Vache (the Cow) on account of the resemblance of their foaming waters to milk, though others have attributed the name to the noise, like ihe bellowing of a cow, which is made by the roaring torrent pending the i»revalence of certain winds. They present, when swollen by spring floods or by autumnal rains, a most imposing spectacle. The volume of water, though much less than that of Niagara, falls from a much greater height, viz., 251 feet. When the sun lights up its brilliant pris- matic colors, the undulating mass of foam, rainbow-tinted, assumes hues of marvellous brightness. Beaupori's won- drous cataract may be seen under various attractive aspects. I have ridden back from it to the storied city, at sunset, watching entranced, the departing orb of day, shedding its golden rays on the quaint, old metal-sheathed roofs — 18 — of Quebec, and the city windows looking westward ; the whole panorama, a realm of fairy land lit up with the quivering sheen of diamonds. I also remember, on a brisk, starry night amid-winter, contemplating in dreamy, rapt silence, a novel spectacle, seldom vouchafed to Quebecers. The snowy peak or cone at the foot of the cataract, had been scooped out by an enterprising city restaurateur^ to represent a vast, glittering palace, provided with icy couches, seats, &c., a cold,bright,but fitting throne for the Frost King, illumined by weird Chinese lamps, reminding one of Cowper's glow- ing description of imperial Catherine's Russian ice palace of 1787 : Silently as a dream, the fabric rose, Ice upon ice, tho' well adjusted parts Lamps gracefully disposed, and of all hues, Illumine every side So stood the bright prodigy Convivial table and commodious seat A scene of evanescent glory, once a stream, And soon to glide into a stream again (Thk Task, book V., 127) About a mile and a half from the bridge, occurs the geological curiosities, denominated the Natural Steps^ adjacent to cascades of three or four yards in depth. " The rocks are so-called because they exhibit, " says, Lossing, " a series of rectangular gradations ' resembling stairs. They are composed of shaly limestone and sup- posed by some, to have been formed by the abrasion of the waters, and by others to be original in their shapes. For an eighth of a mile the river rushes in irregular cas- cades among these rocks, in a very narrow and tortuous channel its surface white with foam, and here and there ird; the vith the d-winter, pectacle, peak or ped out a vast, 5, &c., a lumined r's glow- e palace ) 1*8 the StepSf 1. says, ibling i sup- on of lapes. cas- iUOUS there niontinorenci Falls. t ! I n — 19 — Fending up fleeces of spray. On the bold, rocky bank we sat, *.vatching the rushing waters, and made an early dinner of sandwitches. " Sweetser adds that fine specimens of trilobites have been found in the vicinity. Over the strand at the foot of the Fall, adjoining the vast saw mills of the Messrs. Hall & Price, a muddy beach of more than a mile broad extends at low tide. You r n now at this spot hear the whistle of the Quebec^ Montmo- renct and Charlevoix Railway conveying its myriads of halt and rheumatic pilgrims to La Bonne Sainte Annty a cherished shrine, fourteen miles lower down. Very diffe- rent scenes greeted here the eye on a sultry July after- noon (the 31st in 1759) ; a deadly encounter between Britten and Gaul. Read the oft, told tale in Garneau and Parkman. Wolfe paid dearly for his ill-timed and rash assault, from an unprotected position on the beach : attempting to scale the wet, perpendicular heights flanked with earth works, protected by woods, bristling with cannon and crowned by expert French-Canadian marksmen. He lost nearly 500 men, in killed and wounded, including those scalped by the Hurons and other savages. The dauntless English leader and his rash grenadiers made a grave mistake and the heroic French- man Montcalm failed to make the most of a victory which the tide and elements brought to an unsatisfactory close, (i) (1) A full account of the siege of Quebec and battle ot Beauport Flats appears in the Mapk Leaves, for 1864, and in Quebec, Past and PreserU, — 20 — QUEBEC TO CAP ROUGE Returning by St. Foye Road. A few doors from the Kent H juse on St Louis street, occurs the St Louis Hotel, the head quarters of tourists, salmon and trout fishers. No american traveller or pleasure seeker should pass, unnoticed the modest tenement (Gobert's House) close to Ste. Ursule street where Brigadier General Montgomery's body was laid out on the 31st December. 1775. An other land maik in the vicinity is the solid old Sewell manor, built in 1804, now the head quarters of the Dominion school ot Cavalry. On emerging fiom St. Louis Gate, the first object which attracts the eye is the Skating Rink. Adjoining stood the old home of the Prentices, in 1781, — Bandon Lodge, (i) once the abode of Sandy Simpson, (2) whose cat-o'ninetails must have left lively memories in Wolfe's ariny. Did the beauteous damsel about whom Horatio, Lord Nelson, raved in 1782, when, as Commander of H. M.'s frigate Albematle^ he was philandering m Quebec, ever live here ? (3) (1) Tlio omato residoiue of Hon. Jos. Sheliyn. M. P. P., occu- pies now this historic site. (2) Sau.ndkrs Simpson. — " He was Provost Marshall in Wolfe's ujMny, at the atfairs of Louisbomg, Quebec and Montreal, and cousin of my fathi'i's. He resided in tliat house, the nearest to Saint Louis Gate, outside, which has not undergone any external alteration since I was a boy." — From Diary of Deputy Commis- sary General Jan. Thompson. (3) Recent evidence extracted by the historian Miles out of the Thompson papeis and letters, lead to strengthen the theory pre- viously propounded by me, and to indicate Miss Mary Simpson, dauyhter of Saunders Simpson, as the famed Quebec beauty of 1782. — 21 — D. is street, tourists, J Id pass, close to jomery's )lid old rsofthe object Ijoining andon whose Volfe's oratio, der of uebec, occn- Volfo's il, and est to eternal wimis- of the y pre- ipson, ity of This seems very likely. The Parliament Buildings, an imposing /^/ock facing east, north, south and west with a si)acious court yard m the centre, a jet-d'eau and lawns are erected on the north side of the Grande Alice. The Parliament and Departmental Buildings, the lar- gest public edifice in the Province of Quebec, begun in 1878, are now completed at a cost of $1,393,784.40. It forms a square, each side of which externally me.isures 300 feet and encloses a court 198 x 195 feet. The style of architecture, though not over ornate, is what was used in public edifices of the XVII century. JMnbossed pilasters in rustic work, ri>ing from the base- ment up to the cornice, close the salient angles of each projection. The height of the body of the edifice from the ground to the great cornice is 60 feet, English measure, and 72 feet to the top of the cornice above the attics. A heraldic Lion passant^ between two fleur de-lys and three maple leaves, displays the arms of the Province of Quebec. On the piers of the first story are cut in relief, the escutcheon of the two first Lieutenant.-Ciovernors of ihe Province of Quebec ; sculptured on the central window of the second story, is visible from afar, the " year " when the structure was commenced, " 1878 ", and on the side windows are mscribed the monograms of the Governor General and Lieutenant-Governor, under whose adniinistj-ation the edifice was built. Niches on diff. rer.t i>oints of the edifice will exhibit statues of Jacques Cartier, of Chim plain, «>f Maisonneuve, Laval, Breb'jeuf, Viel, Oiier, Frontenac, Wolfe, Montcalm, Levi, de Salaberiy, Elgin; $28,000.00 has be<_n votel for this object and an able sculptor, Mr. Hebert, is now pushing on in Paris, this work of art. A statue of the historian F. X. Garneau, will also be erected in the grounds, near the fountain. The interior of the building, will furnish a complete epitome of Canadian history, by the heraldic groups, — 22 — armorial inscriptions, &c., on the pannellings and stair cases. Opposite, looms out the handsome Drill Hall and its adjunct the Cavalry Riding shed. ** Ferguson's house," next to it, noted by Professor Silliman in his " Tour between Hartford and Quebec in 1819," is now difficult to recognize ; its late owner A. Joseph, Esq., added so much to its size. It is now leased to Monsieur Boul^ and rejoices in the name of Le Lion d^Or. Its proximity to the Legislative Halls, will doubtless make it a popular resort for members of the Provincial Legislature. Another landmark of the past deserves notice — the ex-Commander of the Forces' lofty quarters ; from its angular eaves and forlorn aspect, it generally went by the name of " Bleak House." I cannot say whether it ever was haunted, but it ought to have been, (i) We are now in the Grande Alice — the forest avenue, which two hundred years ago led to Silleiy Wood. Handsome terraces of cut stone dwellings erected by Hon. P. Garneau, Messrs. Joseph, Hamel, Duquet, Roy, Bilodeau, add much to the appear- ance of this fashionable neighborhood. On turning and looking back as you approach Bleak House, you have an excellent view of the Citadel, and of the old French works, which extend beyond it, to the cime du Cap^ over- looking \Ansc dcs Meres. A little beyond the Comman- der's house, at the top of what is generally known as Perrault's Hill, stands the Perrault homestead, dating back to 1820, \Asile Champetre^ lately owned by Mrs. Henry Dinning, but by the expiration of the lease-hold of 99 years, claimed by the Ursuline Nuns of Quebec. To the east of it, on a most commanding position, on the Buttes-d-NepveUy stands the old Freer Mansion, rebuilt and adorned by John Roche, Esq. — The Hillocks. (1) The widening and paving of tlie Grande AlUe^ deserve also to be noted as signs of progress. and stair 11 and its s house," i "Tour difficult idded so 3ul^ and imity to popular Another inlander ves and " Bleak ted, but Grande ars ago : stone [oseph, ppear- g and avean rench over- nman- •vvn as iating Mrs. -hold ebec. 1, on sion, locks. 3 also — 23 — The adjoining range of heights, at present occupied by the Martello Tower, is known as the ButUs-a-Nepveu^ from the name of one of their earliest occupants under French rule. " It was here that Murray took his stand on the morning of April 28th, 1760, to resist the advance of Levi, and here commenced the hardest-fought — the bloodiest action of the war, which terminated in the defeat of Murray, and his retreat within the city. The Martello Towers are bomb-proof, they are three in num- ber, and form a chain of forts extending along the ridge from the St. Lawrence to the River St Charles. The fact that this ridge commanded the city,unfortunately induced Murray to leave it and attempt to fortify the heights, in which he was only partially successful, owing to the frost being still in the ground. The British Government were made aware of the fact, and seeing that from the improved artillery, the city was now fully commanded from the heights, which are about seven hundred yards distant, decided to build the towers. Arrangements were accordingly made by Col. Isaac Brock then commanding the troops in Canada. In 1806, the necessary materials were collected, in the following year their construction commenced. They were not, however, completed till 181 2. The original estimate for the four was ;£8,ooo, but before completion the Imperial govern- ment had expended nearly ;if 12,000. They are not all of the same size, but like all Martello Towers, they are circular and bomb-proof The exposed sides are thirteen feet thick and gradually diminish like the horns of the crescent moon, to seven feet in the centre of the side next the city walls. The first or lower story, contains tanks, storerooms and magazine ; the second has cells for the garrison, with port- holes for two guns. On the top there used to be one 68-pounder carronade, two 24, and two 9-pounders." {Wfn.J. Anderson), — 24 — A party of Arnold's soldiers ascended these heights in November, 1775, and advanced quite close to the city wails, shouting defiance at the little garrison. A few shots soon dispersed the invaders, who retraced thtir steps to Wolfe's Cove. On the Buttes-a- epveUy the great criminals were formerly executed. Here, la Corri- veau, the St. Valier Latarge, met her deserved fate in 1763, after being tried by one of General Murray's Cou t Martials for murdering her husband. After death she was hung in chains, or rather in a solid iron cage, at the fork of four roads, at L^evis, close to the spot where the Temperance monument has since been built. The loath- some form of ihe uiurderess caused more th£\n one shud der amongst the peaceable peasantry of Levis, until some biave young men, one dark night, cut down the horrid cage, and hid it deep under ground, next to the cemetery at Levis, where close to a century afterwards, it was dug up and sold to Barnum's agent for his Museum. Sergeant Jas. Thompson records in his diary, under date i8th Nov., 1782, another memorable execution: " This day two fellows were executed for the murder and robbery of Capt. Stead, commander of one of the Treasury Brigs, on the evening of the 31st Dec, 1779, between the Upper and the Lower Town. The criminals went through Port St Louis, about 11 o'clock, at a slow and doleful pace, to the place where justice had allotted them to suffer the mo^t ignominious death. It is astonish- ing to see what a crowd of people followed the tragic scene. Even our people on the works (Cape Diamond) l)rayed Capt. Twiss for leave to follow the hard-hearted crowd." It was this Capt. Twi^s who subsequently fur- nished the plan and built a temporary citadel, in 1793. Eleven years later, in 1793, we have, recorded in his- tory, another doleful procession of red coats, the Quebec Garrison, accompanying to the same place of execution a mess-mate (Draper), a soldier of the 7th Fusiliers, then — 25 — commanded by the young Duke of Kent, who, after pro nouncing the sentence of death as commander, over the trembling culprit, kneeling on his coffin, as son and representative of the Sovereign, exercised the royal prero- gative of mercy and pardoned poor Draper. Look down Perrault's hill towards the south. There stand, with a garden plot and trees in the foreground, the Military Home, — where infirm soldiers, their widows and children, could find a refuge. It has since been purchased and converted into the " Female Orphan Asylum. " It forms the eastern boundary of a large expanse of verdure and trees, reaching the summit of the lot originally intended by the Seminary of Quebec for a Botanical (iarden ; subsequently, it was contemplated to build a new seminary there, to afford the boys fresh air. Alas ! other counsels prevailed. Its western boundary is a road leading to the new District Jail, — a stone structure ot great strenLjtIi, sur- mounted with a diminutive tower, admirably ada[)ted, one would imagine, for astron )mic il pursuits. From its glistening cupola, the Provincial Observatory is visible to the east. I was forgetting to notice that substantial building, dating from 1855 — the Ladies' Home. The Protestant Ladies of Quebec have here, at no small expense and trouble, raised a fitting asylum, where the aged and infirm find shelter. This, and the building opposite,St. Bridget's A'^ylum, with its fringe of trees and green plots, are real ornaments to the Grande Alice. The old burying g-^ound of 1832, with all its ghastly memories of the Asiatic scourge, has assumed quito an ornate, nay, a respectable aspect. Close to the toll-bar on the Grande Allee^ may yet be seen one of the meri- dian stones which serve to mark the western boundary of the city, west of the old Lampsoi Mansion. On the adjoining domain, well named ** Battlefield Cottage, " — 26 — formerly the property of Col. Charles Campbell, now the handsome residence of Mr. Alphonse Charlebois, who added a new front to the house, a conservatory and out houses, was the historic well out of which a cup of water was obtained to moisten the parched lips of the dying hero, Wolfe, on the 13th September, 1759. The well was filled in a few years ago, but not before it was nigh proving fatal to Col. Campbell's, then young son — (Arch. Campbell, Esq., of Thornhill.) Its site is close to the western boundary fence, in the garden behind " Bat- tlefield Cottage." Here we are at those immortal plains — the Hastings and Runnymede of the two races once arrayed in battle against one another at Quebec. The Plains of Abraham are the eastern boundary of Marchmont, formerly owned by John Gilmour, Esq., now magnificiently rebuilt by Thos. Beckett, Esq. Opposite to the west extremity of Marchmont may be seen indistinctly from the road, John Burstall's, com- modious mansion — on a well wooded estate recently bought from the Marquise de Bassano — nee Symes — a magnificent and some smaller elms, deck its lawns ; hence, its name Elm Grove. A few minutes more brings the tourist to Honb. J. E. Price's villa- Wolfe-field, where may be seen the precipi- tous path up the St. Denis burn, by which the Highlanders British soldiers gained a footing above, on the 13th and September, 1759, and met in battle array, to win a vic- tory destined to revolutionize the New World. The British were piloted in their ascent of the river by a French prisoner brought with them from England — Denis de Vitre, formerly, a Quebecer of distinction. Their landing place at Sillery was selected by Major Robert Stobo, who had, in May, 1759, escaped from a French prison in Quebec, and joined his countrymen the English, at Louisbourg, from whence he took ship again to meet — 27 — Saunders* fleet at Quebec. The tourist next drives past Thornhill, Sir Francis Hinck's old home, when Premier to Lord Elgin. Adjoining Thornhill amidst trees, glistens the shining roof of Villa St. Denis^ Israel J. Tarte's cosy cottage, built close to the diminutive stream, the ruisseau St. Denis, up which climbed, in 1 759, brave VVolfe, at the spot where it leaps into Wolfe's Cove, west of Marchmont hill. In view may be seen from the St. Louis road, the new stable, farm buildings and well tilled fields of the intelligent agriculturist who now owns it. Opposite, appear the leafy glades of Spencer Wood, so grateful a summer retreat, that Lord Elgin used to say. " There he not only loved to live, but would like to rest his bones." Next comes Spencer Grange, the seat of J. M. LeMoine, Esq., ; then Woodfield, the homestead of the Hon. Wm. Sheppard (i) in 1847, now of Messrs. John I. and Jas. Gibb. (2) The eye later dwells on the rustic Church of St. Michael, embowered in evergreens ; close to which, looms out, at Sous les Bois, the stately convent oi Jesus- Marie-, then you meet with villas innumerable — one of the most conspicuous is Benmore House, Honble Col. Rhodes' country seat. Benmore House is well worthy, of a call, were it only to procure a bouquet. This is not merely the Eden of roses ; Col. Rhodes has combined the farm with the garden. His underground rhubarb and mushroom cellars, his boundless asparagus beds and strawberry plantations, are a credit to Quebec and to the new Minister of Agriculture, P. Q. The highway which branches off towards Ste. Foye, is called the Gomin (1) Hon. I W. Sheppard died in 1867 — regretted as a scholar, an antiquary, a type of the old English gentleman (2) This realm of fairy land, so rich is uature's graces, so pro- fusely embellished by the late James Gibb, Esq., President of the Quebec Bank^was recently sold for a Cemetery, and if not denuded pf trees, \% |ikely to continue as an ornament to St. Louis road. — 28 — road, after one of its earliest inhabitants, Dr Gomin, a french botanist, whose dwelling stood, in the last cen- tury, on the norih side. A few acres to the west, a conspicuous landnjark is Roslin, the ornate homestead of Lt. Col. Joseph Bell Forsyth. Amidst a plantation of lovely trees grown by the owner of the ground, peeps out Montague Cottage, the residence of Alfred P. Whee- 1-r, Esq., on the north side of the road, adjoining the Siliery Rectory. Next come Clermont (i) Beauvoir, (2) Kilmarnock, (3) Cataraqui, (4) Kilgrasion, Kirk-Ella, (5) The Highlands, Bardfield (6) Dornald, (7) Meadow Bank, (8) Ravens- wood, (9) until, after a nine miles drive, Redclyffe closes the rural landscape — Redclyffe, (10) on the toj) of Cap Rouge promontory. There, many mdications yet mark the spot where Roberval's ephemeral colony win- tered as far back as 1542. One can return to the city, by the Ste. Foye Road, skirting the classic heights where General Murray, six months after the first battle of the Plains, lost the second, on the 28th April, 1760 ; the Ste. Foye Church was then occupied by the British soldiers. Your gaze next rests on Holland House, Mont- gomerys head-quarteis in 1775, behind which is Holland (1) The stately home of Lt. Col. Ferdinand Turnbull. (2) The picturesque villa of R. R. Dobell, Esq. (3) A mossy old hall founded by Mr. McNider in the begin- ning of the century ; now occupied by the Graddon family. (4) The gorgeous mansion of Mrs. Chas. E. Levey. (5) The property of Robert Campbell, Esq. (6) The picturesque cottage of Alfred Furaiss, Esq. (7) Founded by the late Hon. John Neilson. (8) The highly cultivated farm and summer residence of Gus- tavus Stuart, Barrister, Esq. (9) The beautiful home of W. Herring, Esq. (10) Recently acquired by Amos Bowen, Esq. — 29- Tree, overshadowing, as of yore, the grave of the Hol- lands (i) The view from the Ste Foye road, of the gracefully meandering St Charles, below, especially during the high tides, is something to be remembered. The tourist shortly afte>" detects the iron pillar, surmounted by a bronze statue of Bellona, presented in 1855, by Prmce Napoleon Bonaparte — intended to commemorate the fierce struggle at this spot, of 28th April, 1760. In close vicinity, appear the bright partenes or umbrageous groves oi Bellevuey (2) Hamwood, (3) Bijou, (4) Altamont, (5) Sans-Bruity and the gothic arches of Finlay Asylum ; soon he re-enters by St John's suburbs, with the broad basin of the St. Charles and the pretty Island of Orleans staring him in the face. A trip to the Island will also repay trouble ; half an hour of bri>k steaming will do it. The Island contains hotel accommodation. Let him cross then to St. Joseph, Levis, in the ferry steamer, and go and behold the most complete, the most formidable, as to design, the most modern earthworks, making one forget those of Antwerp. They are capable of contain- ing three regiments of soldiers. At a point to the north- east of the lower fort, a plunging fire from above can be brought to bear, which would sink the most invulnerable ironclad in the world. (1) For account of the duel, which laid low one of the Hol- lands see Picturesque Quehe,c. The tree, however, has lately been destroyed by a storm, (2) A stately Convent of Congregational Nuns. (3) The ornate country seat of Robt, Hamilton, Esq. (4) The cosy dwelling of Andrew Thomson, Esq., President, Union Bank. (5) The homestead of Hon. David A. Ross, L. C. — 30 — QUEBEC TO INDIAN LORBTTE. Of the many attractive sites in the environs of the city, few contain in a greater degree than the Huron village of Lorette, during the leafy months of June, July and September, picturesque scenery, combined with a wealth of historical associations. The nine miles inter- vening between Quebec and the rustic auberge of the village, thanks to an excellent turnpike, can be spanned in little more than an hour. I shall now attempt to reca- pitulate some of the sights and incidents of travel which befell me, while escorting to Lorette an old world tourist, of very high literary estate, the Revd. Arthur Penhryn Stanley, then Dean of Westminster and Chaplain to Her Majesty, Fortunately for myself and for my genial but inquisitive companion, I was fresh from the perusal of Bressani, Ferland and Faillon, as well as the excellent French sketch " Tahourenche, " which A. N. Montpetit had published, to whom I take this early opportunity of makmg due acknowledgment. My agreeable and distin- guished companion had spent one day in the old capital, sight-seeing. He had devoted the whole forenoon, visiting The Citadel on Cape Diamond, The site of the old French Walls Wolfe and Montcalm's Monument, The Laval University — its Museum and Picture Gallery, The Literary and Historical Society and its Museum, The French Basilica — its Relics, Painting, ^c, -st- The Ursuline Convent and its Oil Paintings, The Dufferin Terrace — the Dufferin Improve- ments, The Kent Gate, The New Parliament Buildings, The Plains of Abraham, Spencer Wood and its Grand River Views, where His Honor Lieut. -Governor Letellier had asked some of the Quebec literati to meet the literary Hon, after luncheon. The Dean had engaged a comfortable carriage and driven down to the Falls of Montmo- renci, the promenade obligee of all tourists, — crossing over to the east bank and contemplating the striking panorama and glittering distant city roofs, from the very spot, mayhap, on which Wolfe, in July, 1759, ^^^ stood, whilst settling the details of the compaign, which by its results, was to give the Anglo-Saxon, he who rejoices in ** Chatham's tongue, " the supremacy in the New World. The Natural Steps and the historic ford adjacent thereto, defended in 1759 t>y Montcalm's militiamen and Indians, had been inspected ; nothing had escaped the eagle glance of the learned man. My functions as Ciceronne, confined to a visit to Lorette, were to com- mence on the morrow With a mellow autumnal sun, just sufficient to bronze the sombre tints, lingering at the close of the Indian summer, we left the Citadel, where Dean Stanley was the guest of the Governor General, Lord Dufferin, and drove through Fabrique and Palace streets, towards the unsightly gap in our city walls, of yore yclept Palace Gate, which, thanks to his powerful initiative, we expect yet to see bridged over with graceful turrets and Norman towers. The New City Gates and imposing Dufferin — 32— ^' ' Terrace have since been built, a lasting proof of his Lordship's interest in the welfare of Quebec. A turn to the west brought us opposite to the scarcely perceptible ruins of the Palace (i) of the French Inten- dants, destroyed by the English shells in 1775, to dislodge Arnold and Montgomery's New England soldiery. The park which intervened formerly between it and the St Charles, many years back, was converted into a wood yard to store the fuel for the garrison ; a portion now is used as a cattle market. Opposite, stand the station and freight sheds of the Can. Pacific Railway ; the road skirts the park towards the populous St Roch suburbs, rebuilt and transformed since the great fire of 28th May, 1845, which destroyed 1,600 houses, occupy- ing the site of former spacious pasture grounds for the city cows, hence styled by the early French Za Vacherie. In a trice, we reached Dorchester bridge, the second one, buiH there in 1822 — the first opened with great pomp by His Excellency Lord Dorchester in 1789, having been con- structed a few acres to the west, and called after him. One of the first objects on quitting the bridge and diverging westward, towards the Charlesbourg road, on the river bank, is the stately, solid, antique mansion of the late Mr Chs. Smith, who at one time owned nearly all the broad acres intervening between this house and Gros Fin. The area took, for a time, the name of Smith- ville ; it was inherited by several members of his family, who built cosy cottages thereon. These green fields fringed with white birch and spruce plantations, are (1) Originally a brev^ety owned by Intendant Talon, and sold to the French King in 1686, for 15,000 6cibs. Later on, the Intendant's Palace, in magnificence, rivalled the Ch6ieav. St. Louis. Messrs. Boswell's extennve Malt House was built in 1886, on its still solid foundations* — 33 — f of his scarcely 1 Inten- dislodge it and into a portion Eind the ray; the )t Roch t fire of occupy- the city rie. In a ne, buiU by His en con- him. ge and )ad, on sion of nearly se and Smith- family, fields lis, are ad sold on, the eav, St. a 1886, watered by the St Charles, the Ka/iir-Koiihat (i) oi nncient days. In rear of one of the first villas, Jiini>;fieldy owned by Cleo. Holmes Parke, Esq., runs the little stream, the Lairet^ at the confluence of which Jacques- (.'artier wintered in 1535-6, leaving there one of his ships, the Petite- ITtrmme^ of 60 tons ; its decayed oak timbers were exhumed in 1843 '^V J<*s. Hamel, City Sur- veyor of Quebec. Our antKiuanes are starting doubts anent this discovery. The discussion may yet culminate, in a second Querci/e (Vantiquaires ! A very remarkable vestige of French domination exists behind the villa of Mr Parke — a circular field (hence the name Ringfield) covering about twelve acres, surrounded by a ditch, with an earth work once about twenty feet high, to the east, to shield its inmates from the shot of Wolfe's fleet lying at the entrance of the St. Charles, befoie Quebec. A minute description has been given by (ieneral Levi's aide-de- (ami), the Chevalier ]^^\\\'>,X(^x\ught the Ancienne ve years. I terrible One fine Tie, they in 1697, close to lown as I told (2) cemplary ided into / of the maternal *icard — Tortoise, is a Tor- that. ; he is ose two of Santa |er Chau- he had •e he had ry, 1879, dded as rirls, 56. ive been [omplete |e Revd. Ished of lider the ^nted in )f their — 43 — council chiefs ; the six united select a grand chief, either from among themselves or from the honorary chiefs, if they think proper." The Lorette Chapel dales back, as well as the Old Mill^ to 1 73 1. In 1862 the Chapel suffered much by fire. The tribe occupies land reserved by Government, under the regulations of the Indian Bureau of Ottawa. " Indian Lorette comprises from forty to fifty cottages, on the plateau of the falls — spread out, without design, over an area of about twenty square acres. In the centre, runs the king's highway, the outer half sloping down towards the St. Charles. The most prominent objects are the Church, a grist mill and Mr. Reid's paper mill ; close by, a wooden fence encloses " God's acre, " in the centre of which a cross marks the tomb of Chief Nicho- las. " (i) It is, indeed, *' a wild spot, covered with the (1) Probably the same as alluded to in a quaint old engraving in our possession. Under tlie portrait of Chief Nicholas is printed " Nicholas Vincent, Isawanhonhi," principal Christiun chief and Captain of the Huron Indians, established at La Jeune Lorette, near Quebec, habited in the costume of liis country, as when presented to his Majesty George IV, on the 7th of April, 1825, with three other chiefs of his nation, by Generals Brock and Carpenter, the chief bears in his hand the wampum or collar, on which is marked the tomahawk given by his late Hajesty Geoige HI. The gold medal on his neck was the gift of His Majesty on this presentation. " They were accompanied and introduced into llngland on the 14th December, 1824, by Mr, W. Cooper, who, though an English- man, they take to be a chief of their nation, and better known to them as chief ToiirJmunchir N. B. — It may be well to say that from the earliest times the Lorette Indians have been in the habit of electing as " Honor.iry Chiefs " Quebecers of note, who may have rendered service to the tribe. An oil painting is now in the possession of Noble Campbell, son of the late Wm. Darling Campbell, of Quebec, exhibiting the installation as a Chief, in 1837, of the Lite Robert Symes, J. P. of Quebec. J "-^m -44- primitive forest and seamed by a deep and tortuous ravine, where the St. ('hatles foanis, white as a sn(jw- drift, over the black ledges, and where the sunshine struggles through mntted boughs of the pine and the fir, to bask for brief moments on the mossy r^cks, or flash on the hurrying waters Here, to this day, the tourist finds the remnants of a lost people, harmless weavers of baskets and j ewers of mocissins, the Huron blood fast bleaching out of ihem." (Frs. Parkman.) Of " free and independent elector " none here exist, the little Lorette world goes on smoothly without them. " No Huron on the reserve can vote. No while man is allowed to settle within the sacred precincts of the Huron kingdom, composed, ist, of the iofiy Plateau oi the village of Indian Lorette, which the tribe occupy. 2nd. Of the forty square (40 x 40) acres, about a mile and a half to the north-west of the village. 3id. Of the Rocmont settlement, in the adjoining Coimiy of Port- neuf, in the very heart of the Laurentine Mountains, ceded to tlie Hurons 'oy Government, as a comiiensation for the Sei^^niory of vSt. Oabnel, of which Government took possession, and to which the Hurons set up a claim. '* In all that which pertains to the occupation, the ])Ossessio;i and the ;ulniinisir.ition of these fragments (-f its ancient extensive lerntory, the usag s and cnstoms of the tribe have fo ce of law. The \illage is govi rned by a Council of Sachems ; in cases of misunderstandings an appeal lies to the Ottawa Bureau, under the control of the Minister of the Interior (our Dow ung street wisely abstaining to interfere, except on very uge.u occasions). Lands descend by right of inheritance ; the Huion Council alone being authorized to issue location tickets ; none are granted but to Huron boys, strangers being excluded. Of course, these di jabiliiies affect the denizens of the reserve only ; a Huron (and there aie some, Tahourenche^ Vincent and others) owning land in his own — 45 — ortuous I sn(j\v- Linshine the fir, )r flash ly, the armless Huron n.) e exist, t them. man is of the T^eai/ of Dccupy. : a mile Of the )f Port- intains, insation nment claim. »n, the ents (»f isioms vi rned n clings control wisely >ions). luiun kt'ts ; being lizens some, s own right elsewhere, and paying taxes and tithes, enjoys the rights and immunities of any other British subject." From the date of the Lorette Indian settlement in 1697, down to the year of the capitulation of Quebec — 1759 — the annals of the tribe afford but few stirring incidents : an annual bear, beaver, or cariboo hunt ; the return of a war party, with its scalps — English, probably as the tribe had a wholesome horror of meddling with the Iroquois. An occasional pcnv-wmv as to how many warriors could be spared to assist their trubted and brave allies, the French of Quebec, against the heretical soldiers of Old or New England. We are in possession of no facts to show that these Christianised Hurons differed much from other Chris- tianised Indians ; church services, war-councils, feasting, smoking, dancing, scalping an i hunting, filling in, socia- bly, agreeably or usefully, the daily routine of their existence. Civilization, as understood by Christianised or by Pagan savages, has never inspired us with unqua- lified admiration. The vaiious siege narratives we have perused, whilst they bring in the Indian allies, at the closj of the battle, 10 "finish off" the wounded at Montmorenci, in July, 1759 ; at the Plains of Abraham, in September, 1759 ; at Ste. Foye. in Ai)ril, 1760, generally mention the Abe- niquis lor this charming office of friseurs. The terror, n ly, the horror, which the tomahawk and scalping knife inspired to the British soldiery, was often greater than their fear of the French musquetoons. British ru'e, in 1759, if it did bring the Hurons less of campaigning and fewer scalps, was the harbinger of domestic peace and stable homes, with remunerative contracts each fall for several thousands of pairs of snow-shoes, cariboo mocassins and mittens for the En- glish regiments tenanting the citadel of Quebec, whose ^^ — 46 — wealthy officers every winter scoured the Laurentine range, north of the city, in quest of deer and cariboo, under the experienced guidance of Gros Louis, Sioui, Vincent, and other famous Huron Nimrods. The chronicles of the settlemeut proclaim the valour and wisdom of some of their early chiefs ; conspicuous appears the renowned Ahatsistari, surnamed the Huron Saul, from his early hostility to missionaries ; death closed his career, on the verdant banks of Lake Huron, in 1642, a convert to missionary teachings. At the departure of the French, a new allegiance was forced on the sons of the forest ; St. George and his dragon for them took the place of St. Louis and his lilies. The Deer^ the Bear^ the Tortoise and the Wolf^ however, have managed to get on well with the Dragon. In 1776, Lorette sent its contingent of painted and plumed warriors to fight General Burgoyne's inglorious campaigns. The services rendered to England by her swarthy allies in the war of 181 2 were marked; each succeeding year, a distribution of presents took place from the Quebec Commissariat and Indian Department. Proudly did the Hurons, as well as the Abenaquis, Mon- tagnais, Micmac and Malecite Indians bear the snow- white blankets, scarlet cloths and hunting- knives awarded them by King George, and by the victors of Water- loo. Each year, at midsummer, Indian canoes, with their living freight of hunters, their copper - coloured squaws and black-eyed papooses, pad led from Labrador, Gaspd, Ristigouche, Baie des Chaleurs, and pitched their tents on a point of land at Levi, hence called Indian Cove, the city itself being closed to the grim monarchs of the woods, reputed ugly customers when in their cups. A special envoy, however, was sent to the Lorette Indians on similar occasions. The Indians settled on Canadian soil were distinguished for their attachment — 47 — to England, who has ever treated them more mercifully than did " Uncle Sam." What with war medals, clothing, ammunition, fertile lands specially reserved at Lorette, on the Ristigouche, at Nouvelle, Isle Verte, Caughnawaga, St. Regis, Pointe Bleue, the '* untutored savage," shielded by a beneficent legislation, watched over by zealous missionaries, was at times an object of envy to his white brethren ; age or infirmity, seldom war, tore him away from this vale of sorrow, to join the Indian " majority " in those happy hunting grounds promised to him by his Sachems. The sons of the forest were ever ready to parade their paint, feathers and tomahawks, at the arrival of every new Governor, at Quebec ; and to assure Ononthio (i) of their undying attachment and unswerving loyalty to their great father or august mother ** who dwells on the other side of the Great Lake. " These traditions have descended even to the time when Ononthio was merely a Lieutenant-Governor under Confederation. We recol- lect meeting, in plumes and paint, on the classic heights of Siilery, on the 31st March, 1873, ^ stately deputation, composed of twenty-three Hurons from Lorette, return- ing from Clermont, the country seat of Lieutenant- Governor Caron, where they htd danced the war-dance for the ladies, and harangued, as follows, the respected Laird of Clermont, just appointed Lieutenant-Governor : Ononthio : Aisten tiothi nonSa (2) tisohon dekha hiaiononstati desonSaSendio daskemion tesontariai denonSa ation dati- toSanens tesanonronhSa nionde, aonSa desonSaSendio (1) Means the Qrmt Mountain, the name they gave Governor de Montmagny and his successors. ^2) The 8 is pronounced oia. — 48 — deSa desakatade ; aSeti desanonronkSanion datitoSanens chia ta skenralethe kiolaoutouSison tothi chia hiaha aSeti dechienha totinahiontati desten de sendete ataki atichiai aSeti alonthara deskemion ichionthe desien tiodeti aisten orachichiai. Rev. Prosper SaSatonem. The Memory Man. (Rev. Mr. Vincent, a Chiefs son, then Vicar at Sillery.) Paul Tahourenche^ ist Chief. The Dawn of Day. Maurice Agnolin^ 2nd Chief. The Bear. Francis Sassennio. The Victor of Fire. Gaspard Ondiaralethe. The Canoe Bearer. Philippe TheonSatlasta. He stands upright. Joseph Gonzague Odilonrohannin. He who does not forget. Paul Jr, 7 ,'eianontakhen. Two United Mountains. Honord Telanontoukhe. i ne Sentry. A. N. Montpeiit Ahatsistari. The Fearless Man — And others ; in all, 23 warriors. [Translation]. '* The chiefs, the warriors, the women and children of our tribe, greet you. The man of the woods also likes to render homage to merit ; he loves to see in his chiefs these precious qualities which constitute the statesman. " \11 these gifts of the Great Spirit : wisdom in council, prudence in execution, and that sagacity we exact in the Captains of our nation, you possess them all, in an eminent degree. ' " We warmly applaud your appointment to the exalted post of Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of Quebec, and feel happy in taking advantage of the occasion to present our congratulations. 49 — oSanens ha aSeti atichiai ti aisten . (Rev. ) ►ay. oes not lins. Ian — " May we also be allowed to renew the assurance of our devotion towards our August Mother, 'vho dwells on the other side of the Great lake, as well as to the land of our forefathers. " Accept for you, for Madame Caron and your family, our best wishes." P. S. — Whilst closing these lines, we learn th.t Tahourenche and his Huron braves will again be allowed (i) to renew the assurance of their devotion and loyalty to our gentle Queen, and that ere many suns set, in full costume they will offer to Ononthio^ her envoy and her accomplished daughter, ihe Princess Louise, their rebpeciful homage, under ihe whispeiing pmes ot Spencer Wood, where oft' of yore have roauied their forefathers. ith June 1879. ren of > likes chiefs >man. ni in y we them alted tibec, m to (1) The Lorette Huioiis piiid their respects to His Excellency und to H. R. H., the Princess Louise, later on, but not at Spencer Wood. 50 — CHATEAU-BIGOT. ITS HISTORY AND ROMANCE. . " Ensconced 'mid trees this chateau stood — 'Mid flowers each aisle and porch ; At eve soft musie charmed the ear — High blazed the festive torch. But, ah ! a sad and mournful tale Was her's who so enjoyed The transient bliss of these fair shades — By youth and love decoyed. Her lord was true — yet he was false, False — false — as sin and hell — To form(* plights and vows he gave To one that loved him well." The Hermitage, From time immemorial an antique and massive ruin, standing in solitary loneliness, in the centre of a clearing at the foot of the Charlesbourg mountain, five miles from Quebec, has been visited by the young and the curious. It was once a two-story stone building, with thick ponderous walls. In length, it is fifty-five feet by thirty- five feet broad — pierced for six windows in each story, with a well proportioned door in the centre. In 1843, at the date of my first visit the floor of the second story was yet tolerably strong ; I ascended to it by a rickety, old staircase. The ruin was sketched in 1858, by Col. Benson Lossing and reproduced in Harper's Magazine for January, 1859. The lofty mountain to the north-west of it, is called La Montagne des Ormes; for more than a T. ve rum, clearing ^e miles and the ith thick thirty- h story, 1843, at d story rickety, y Col. agazine th-west than a I f — ^• c «^ a *^ ? ^ r. 3.0 C( a; te ih m ci ta th to F] D a le illi til ( the pie wai per 444 gao wh: 1)0E fror mat A sior atey 8te\ inl is ii land (leec rant ia Aj vent — 51 — century, the Charlesbourg peasantry designate the ruin as La Mauon de la Montagne, The English have Chris- tened it The Hermitage^ whilst o the French portion of the population, it is known as Chateau-Bigot, and Beau- manoir ; and truly, were it not on account of the asso- ciations which surround the time-worn pile, few would take the trouble to go and look at the dreary object. The land on which it stands was formerly included in the Fief de la TrinHe^ granted between 1640 and 1650 to Monsieur Denis, a gentleman from La Rochelle, in France, the ancestor of the numerous clan of Denis, Denis de la Ronde, Denis de Vitre, &c. (i) This sei- gniory was subsequently sold to Monseigneur de Laval, a descendant of the Montmorenci who founded in 1663 the Seminary of Quebec, and one of the most illustrious prelates in New France : the portion towards the mountain was dismembered. When the Intendant (1) I am happy to be able to throw some additional light on tlie early times of this mysterious ruin, wliich has so i)er- plexed Quebec antiquaries. T'is probable this stately mansion was built by the great Intendant Talon, as the Baronial clmtcau^ permitted by his grant, (see Seiifniurial Documents, 1852 — " page 444 and 448) according to which he was empowered to establish iraols, a fourpost gibbet a post Avith an iron collar on which his arms should be engraved." Of all this redoutable feudal pomp, there are no vestiges now extent. Of how the chateau fared from Talon's time to Bigot's, we have failed to unearth any infor- mation. After the conquest, the land came by purchase into the posses- sion of the Stewart family, lately represented by the Hon.. John Stewart's. A most interesting but lengthy letter from one of the Stewart, describing the winter months he spent at the Hermitage in 1775-6, whilst Arnold, held for Congress, the environs of Quebec is in my possession. Mr. Wm. CraAvford, the late owner of the land and ruins, having kindly allowed me the use of his title- deeds. I read that '• Charles Stewart, avocat ot notaire demeu- rant k Quebec, proprietaire du fief de Grand Pre, autrefois dit De lu Mistanguenne ou Mont Plaisir, k la Canardi^re, par acte de vente du 26 Juin 1780,Jdevant Jean Antoine Panet, N. P., conc^da — 52 — Talon formed his Baronie Des Islets (i) he annexed to it certain lands of the Fief de la Tiinit:\ amongst others that port on which now stand the remains of the old chateau, of whi( h he setms to have been the builder, but which he subsequently s Id. Bigot having acquired it long after, enlarged and improved it very much. He was a luxurious French gentleman who more than one hundred years ago, held the exalted post of Intendant under ihe French Crown in Canada. (2) In those days the forests which skirted the city were abundantly stocked with game : deer of several varieties, bears, foxes, perhaps even that noble and lordly animal, now extinct in the Pro- vince of Quebec, the Canadian stag or Wapiti, roamed in herds over the Laurentine chain of mountains and were \x, titre de cens ct rentes seigueurijiles ii Monsieur Jean Lees, le Jeune, Simon Fraser, le Jeune, et William Wilson, n^gociant en cette ville, 10 arpents de front situes dans le fief Grand Pre on Mont Plaisir, i\ la Canardii^re, au lieu nomine La Montague ou r Hermitage, prenant d'un bout, vers le sud .lUx terres de Joseph Hedard et Jean-Baptiste LeRoux dit Cardinal, et allant en pro- fondeur vers ienoid, quatorze arpents ou environ, jusqu's!i la vielle cloture du verger, icelui verger compris en la presente concession et vente, les dix arpents de front joignant du cote du sud-ouest au fief do la Trinite, appartenant au Seminaire, et du cote du nord-ouest i\ la terre de Jean Chattereau, ensemble la raaison & deux etages, une grange et une etable en bois, construits sur les dits dix arpents. The property was resold tlic 12tli August 1805, by John LcfS ci aL, to Oliarles StcAvart, Esq., Comptroler of Customs, Quebec. (1) May 1675, Louis the XIV and Colbert granted to Monsieur le comte Tahm, Intendant, the seigniory des Islets, '' together with those thiee neigliboring villages to us belonging the first called Bourg Royal, the second Bourg la Reine, the third Bourg Talon, subsecjuently changed into the Barony of Orsainville." — For /and, II Vol., p. 69.) (2) Hawkin's Picture of Quebec will give us an idea of the splendour in which the Intendant lived in his town residence : " Immediately through Palace Gate, turning towards the left, and in front of the Ordinance building and store-houses, once — 53 — nexed to jst others r the old ) builder, acquired ich. He ■han one ntendaiit lose days y stocked , perhaps I the Pro- earned in md were fean Lees, negociant I rand Pro iitagne ou le Joseph t en pro- i la vielle onces.sion siid-ouest cote (In maisoQ ^ s sur les hn Lcf s Quebec, ^lonsleiir together tlie first d Bonrg ville."— I of the nee : the left, es, once shot within a few miles of the Chateau St. Louis. This may have been one of the chief reasons why the French I.ucullus owned the casde, which to this day bears his name — a resting place for himself and friends after the chase. The profond seclusion of the spot, combined with its beautiful scenery, would have rendered it attractive during the summer nionths, even without the sweet repose it had in store for a tired hunter. Tradition ascribes to it other purpose-^, and amusements less per- mis-.ible than those of the chase. A tragical occurence enshrines the old building; with a tinge of mystery. Francois Bigot, thirteenth and last Intendant of the Kings of France in Canada, wa-* born in the [)rovince of (juienne, and descended of a family distinguished by professional eminence at the French bar. His Commis- sion bears dnte " loth June, 1747, " the Intendant had the charge of four departments : Justice, Police, Finance and Marine. He had previously filled the post of Inten- stood an edifice of great extent, sunounded by a spacious garden looking towards the River St. Charles and as to its interior decora- tions, iar nioro splendid than the Castle of St Lewis. It was the I'alace of the Intendant, so called, because tlic sittings of the Sovereign Council were held there, after the establishment of the Royal Crovifinnient in New France. A small district adjoining is still called L,' Palak by the old inhabitants, and the n.imc of tlit* yate, (since removed) an»l of the well-proportioned street whith leads to it, are derived from tiie same origin. " The Intendant's Palace was described by LaPotherie, in 1698, iiR consisting of eighty