IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 
 /. 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 7t 
 
 
 
 
 '^^^V^ 
 > 
 
 1= 
 
 11.25 
 
 |:o '""■■ 
 
 Hiotographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 IIIIIM 
 
 2.2 
 
 1.8 
 
 lA. 11 1.6 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
 \ 
 
 <,1>^ 
 
 <^ 
 
 
 <^ 
 
i 
 
 
 
 
 "^ 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 CIHM 
 
 ICMH 
 
 ^ § 
 
 Microfiche 
 
 Collection de 
 
 1 
 -1 
 
 Series 
 
 microfiches 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 (l\/lonographs) 
 
 (monographies) 
 
 v\ 
 
 ®^ 
 
 Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 
 
Technical and Bibliographic Notes / Notes techniques et bibltographiques 
 
 Th« 
 
 to ti 
 
 The Institute has anempted to obtain the best original 
 copy available for filming. Features of this copy which 
 may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any 
 o^ the images in the reproduction, or which may 
 significantly change the usual method of filming, are 
 checked below. 
 
 D 
 
 Coloured covers/ 
 Couverture de couleur 
 
 n= 
 
 Covers damaged/ 
 ouverture endommagee 
 
 D 
 
 Covers restored and/or laminated/ 
 Couverture restauree et/ou pellicul6e 
 
 □ Cover title missi 
 Le titre de couvi 
 
 ng/ 
 couverture manque 
 
 I I Coloured maps/ 
 
 Caites giographiques en couleur 
 
 I I Coloured 
 
 I v^l Encre de 
 
 ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ 
 couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) 
 
 QC( 
 PI 
 
 Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ 
 ancnes et/ou illustrations en couleur 
 
 □ Bound with other material/ 
 Relie avec d'autres documents 
 
 □ Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion 
 along interior margin/ 
 
 La reliure serree peut causer de I'ombre ou de la 
 distorsion le long de la marge interieure 
 
 D 
 
 D 
 
 Blank leaves added during restoration may appear 
 within the text. Whenever possible, these have 
 been omitted from filming/ 
 II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout^es 
 lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, 
 mais, lorsque cela etait possible, ccs pages n'ont 
 pas ete filmees. 
 
 Additional comments:/ 
 Commentaires supplementaires: 
 
 L'Institut a microf ilm^ le meil!eur exemplaire qu'il 
 lui a ef6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet 
 exemplaire qui sont peut-£tre uniques du point de vue 
 bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image 
 reproduite. ou qui peuvent exiger une modification 
 dans la methode normale de f ilmage sont indiques 
 ci-dessous. 
 
 □ Coloured pages/ 
 Pages de couleur 
 
 □ Pages damaged/ 
 Pages endommagees 
 
 □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ 
 Pages restaurees et/ou pellicul6es 
 
 Q Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ 
 Pages decolorees, tachetees ou piquees 
 
 □ Pages detached/ 
 Pages detachees 
 
 □ Showthrough/ 
 Transparence 
 
 □ Quality of print varies/ 
 Qualite inegale de I'impression 
 
 □ Continuous pagination/ 
 Pagination continue 
 
 □ Includes index(es)/ 
 Comprend un (des) index 
 
 Title on header taken from:/ 
 Le titre de I'en-tete provient: 
 
 □ Title page of issue/ 
 Page de itre de la livraison 
 
 □ Caption of issue/ 
 Titre de depart de la li 
 
 The 
 poai 
 of ti 
 ;ilmi 
 
 Orig 
 b«gi 
 th«l 
 sion 
 oth« 
 first 
 •ion 
 or ill 
 
 The 
 shall 
 TINL 
 whic 
 
 Mapi 
 diffai 
 •ntiri 
 bogir 
 right 
 raqui 
 math 
 
 vraison 
 
 □ Masthead/ 
 Ge 
 
 nerique (periodiques) de la livraison 
 
 This Item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ 
 
 Ce document est filme au taux de reduction indique ci-dessous. 
 
 10X 14X 18X 
 
 12X 
 
 16X 
 
 20X 
 
 22X 
 
 26 X 
 
 I 
 
 30X 
 
 24 X 
 
 28X 
 
 D 
 
 22 1 
 
Th«i copy filmed iiare has b««n rapraductd thanks 
 to tha g^narosity of: 
 
 Library of the National 
 Archives of Canada 
 
 L'axamplaira film* fut raproduit grdca A la 
 g4n*rosit6 da: 
 
 La bibliothdque de$ Archives 
 nationales du Canada 
 
 Tha imagas sppaaring hara ara tha bast quality 
 possibia con^ifJaring tha condition and la jibility 
 of tha original copy and in kaaping with tha 
 .'liming contract spacificationa. 
 
 Original copias In printad papor covars ara fllmad 
 beginning with tha front covar and ending on 
 tha last page with a printed or illustreted imprea- 
 aion, or the back cover whtin apprnpriata. AH 
 other orif inal copioa ara filmed beginning oii the 
 first pagn with a printed or illustrated imprea- 
 sion, and ending on tha last page with a printed 
 or illustreted in.preesion. 
 
 The lest recorded frema on eech microfiche 
 shall contain tha symbol — ^ (meaning "CON- 
 TINUED"), or tha symbol V (meaning "END"), 
 whichever applies. 
 
 Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at 
 different reduction ratios. Those too iarga to be 
 entirely included in one exposure ere filmed 
 beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to 
 right and top to bottom, as many frames as 
 required. The following diagrams illustrate the 
 method: 
 
 Las imagas suivantas ont At* raproduites av«c la 
 plus grand soin. compta tenu da la condition at 
 da la nattat* da I'axamplaira film*, at an 
 conformiti avec les conditions du contrat da 
 filmage. 
 
 Lea axemplaires originaux dont la ct ivartura en 
 pepier est imprimis sont fiimis en commancant 
 par la premier plat et 9n tarminant 8o:t par la 
 darniAre page qui comporte una amprainte 
 d'imprassion ou d'iiiustration, soit par la second 
 plat, salon la cas. Tous las autres axemplaires 
 originaux sont filmte an commandant par la 
 pramiAre page qui comporte une empreinte 
 d'imprassion ou d'ilUistiration at an tarminant par 
 la darniire page tiui comporte una telle 
 empreinte. 
 
 Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la 
 darniAra image de cheque microfiche, salon la 
 cas: la symbole -^ signifie "A SUIVRE". la 
 symbols V signifie "FIN". 
 
 Las cartas, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvant dtra 
 filmAs A des taux da r<kduction diffirents. 
 Lorsque Is document est trop grand pour dtra 
 reproduit en un seul clich*. il est film* * partir 
 da Tangle supirieur gauche, da gauche A droits, 
 et de haut 9n bas, an prenant la nombra 
 d'images nicessaira. Las diag^ammas suivants 
 ilSustrant la mAthode. 
 
 1 2 3 
 
 22t 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
1 
 
 .-/ 
 
 -V 
 
 i J 
 
 S 
 
 \ 
 
ft 
 
 i 
 
J 
 
 FORT iiH? 
 PLE/ISURE 
 
 IN THE 
 
 of (anada 
 
 » i 
 
 BY W. M. JONES. 
 
 ON LAKES TEniSKflniNQ 
 
 ' TEnflQflniNQ 
 
 KirPEWfl 
 
f 
 
 /<^OIIIINIB 
 
 \ P«1'»IIHS 
 
 /^^' 
 
 ? 
 
 \ 
 
 't 
 
 J 
 
 9 910231 
 
 I 
 
■A k ak 
 
 A-i^ 
 
 -asfe^ 
 
 '-/ 
 
 Introductory, 
 
 ^t. 
 
 AXTICII'ATIOX. 
 
 All, what n joy ' the time has come, 
 When witli my foil, my (log atiil Kiiii, 
 I to CaiKKran wilds repair 
 And lead a life lliat's free from care; 
 In nature s rajit embrace we're one, 
 'I'lie liveloMi; day, from sun till sun. 
 
 " I am .-m did man now, or, at any rate, am not what \oti 
 woulil call a y()iin,t; man by any mt-ans. I li.ive not the buoy- 
 ant spirits of the yonn,t;(-r j^reneration, so prone to cast a j,'Iamonr 
 about all new scenes and experiences of a ])leasin,<r n.itnre. I?nt 
 I tell you, our trip over the I.akt' Temiskamin<(, and by canoe 
 over Lady I'.vilyn ami Teniao;aminj< Lakes, and l)ack bv .Meta- 
 betcheouan River and Lake 'remiskamin<^, was the most en- 
 chantin<4 '""l enjoyal)le trip I ever made. I would willinKlv 
 make it again, rei)eatedly, every summer had I leisure to do so. 
 Teople have no conception of the beauties unfolded and the 
 pleasures experienced during the trip, and I will go again next 
 season, sure, if alive." 
 
 Such are the words of a gentleman who has " trip])ed " all 
 over the continent of North America, when speaking of an 
 "outing" which he made, in company with others, to an 
 hitherto little known district amid the wilds of Canada, which 
 a few short years ago was considered the " great beyond " of 
 the Ottawa Valley. 
 
 The Lake Temiskaniing District, alluded to above, was 
 "without the ken" of ordinary mortals until the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway— Canada's great highway across the continent 
 
 •. ,- j: ,, •. .»• 
 3 • i. •.•i\ i A 
 
1 
 
 — wiis buill lis far as Mattawa, and beyond. I-lven then, and 
 nnlil the last coupk' of yi'ars, means of access to the I.ake was 
 still expensive, tedions, and to a certain extent danKcrons. 
 Ki])pewa hike District i conti.ijuous to Teniiskaininj,' Lake i was 
 erpially as difTuult to reach, the route heinj^ coninion to both 
 Teiniskaniiny; and Kippewa Lakes as far as the iieauchene Creek, 
 which ein])ties into tlie Ottawa close to the foot of the I.onj.; 
 Sault Ra])id9. Now, however, there is a branch line of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway built to the lower end of the I.aki — 
 Teiiiiskaniinj^, the Station is named. Nearby another line bran- 
 ches olT, and following the valley of the (inrdon Creek, has its 
 terminal at Ki])i)ewa I.ake, nine miles distant from Temiska- 
 niinj,', the latter bein^ ;,S miies from Mattawa. 
 
 The reference to the railway shews the Districts to be easy 
 of access now, and, inferentially proves that previous to the 
 buiIdin,t,M)f the branch line the country was — as it still is — in all 
 its natural wildness, known only to the Indian, trai)])er and the 
 lumberman, and abcimding in ^nmc and fish of ,ill kinds. .\])- 
 proach to it was only jiossible over winter's snow and ice, and 
 in summer, by towing by h.-ind, portaging, and ])addling from 
 Mattawa to tlu' head of Long Sault Ra])i(ls. To recent inaccess- 
 ihilitv is now owing the fact of these Districts being termed, 
 f'lir ,\i-i-I/,iir,-, "The Sportsman's Paradise." 
 
 The ])urpose of this little book is to make known to as 
 m.uiy as po.-isible of such of our humanity as are seeking new- 
 fields for Spurt and Pleasure, where this Country is, its claims to 
 their attention, how to gel there, and what to do and where to 
 go, when there. .\nd ]).irlicularly is il desired to bring to the 
 notice of all who are in ill health, " run down," or suffering 
 from that distressing ailment, " hay fever " — in fact, to all who 
 need to recuperate -the jiaraniouul ad\antages of I.ake Teniis- 
 kaming as a health resort; 
 
 LAKi: niMlSKA.MI.NT, — I-KOM ii1'1;M1CO.N lAKM, 
 
n then, and 
 
 U' J,:ike was 
 
 (laii^eroiis. 
 
 ^ Lake i was 
 
 ion to liotli 
 
 hene Crock , 
 
 )t' tlie I.onj^ 
 
 lint" of tile 
 
 llie Lake — 
 
 I'llinebran- 
 
 -eek, has its 
 
 11 Teiiiiska- 
 
 s to be easy 
 ■ions to the 
 ill is — in all 
 iper and the 
 kinds. A]v 
 111(1 ioi', and 
 Idliiij,' from 
 nl inaccess- 
 \n^ lerined, 
 
 iiovvn to as 
 eekin.i,^ new 
 Is claims to 
 11 d where to 
 l)ring to the 
 ir suffering 
 , to all who 
 .ake Temis- 
 
 Whfther it he fur sport and i)Uasnrf of llic lioliilay seeker, 
 or recni)erati<>n, after arduons duties, of the eity dweller, a 
 couple of weeks or more taken from the yearlx routine of life in 
 the city, and si)ent amid ehaii^iiiK seines in the garden of 
 nature, is always repaid with usurious iiitenst in the added /est 
 and vim with which the daily battle of life is fought after the 
 vacation is ovir. With tlu man of comnurce, law, anil jilixsiis 
 - du its greater sensi — 
 
 " Notliiii){ iiion- iiif MTvi-'i tut n in llu ir wits, 
 Thau niviiiK ol llu in 1i mm tn i)l:i\ l>y fils, 
 In ilrenins to ^jiort. and ranililc with all Con k •«, 
 Anil w:ikiiin liltU- less fXtt:ivMRiMKii>. 
 The rist .inil itiriMlion ol lirud llmnnlit, 
 WliLii li- inn ilown willi latt- iiiul uvi i w longlit ; 
 111 uliiiti wliii (.vti dues not fntly take 
 Hi-- ..(instant slniir, i^ lavir hroail awaki." 
 
 WhiU' for the student, what iin>re eonserves his bodily and 
 mental jtowers than llu leaving for a period hi> necessary and 
 irksome tasks? llis time is not lost, but saved; he gains 
 insight into vsliat, to him, is a closed book, and returns to his 
 studies with refreshed and broadened mind : 
 
 " 'I'll sit on riiiks, t^ innM- o'li llond and riU, 
 Til slowly tiaic tlu- t'nnst's sliady sctiie, 
 Wliire tlnnK-i that own nut man's dnniiniun dwell, 
 And mortal fool liatli ni'er or lately licen ; 
 To ilinili tile tiaikle>s moniuain all unseen, 
 \\ itli the wild llock that ne'er ntcds a fold 
 Alone o'er sleips and I'oaniini; falls to lean ; 
 'I'liis is not solitude; 'tis 1ml to liold 
 Convirse witli nature's eharnis, and view her 
 store's tinroU'd. " 
 
 ONiOTTIiR TAIL CREEK. 
 
II lit wiv lip l.riki TcmiskatiiiiiK, nue < t t!u' iii.iiiv ()Cl..pu»- 
 like iiniisMf TiMiiiK.uiiiiiK I<;ike, siiflciies tnmi the west lo willi- 
 in -•"iiiileM.tTfiiiiskaiiiiiijj I„ike. " licaiitiful," " cliniiiiiiK," 
 " encIiaiitiiiK," arc sonu' ..f tlie adjerlivt-s iis.d when spiMkiiij,' 
 of this I.akr. Ami many, after seoiiiK it, fiiKliiiK »t dilliciill t(. 
 L'xpifss all thL'.v fiel in its praise, Niiiiply say it imist hi- seni to 
 reali/.e its charms, which wonls tail llu-in to illustrate. I'rum 
 •IVmiskamin;^, throi,..h I.adv livilyn ami Diamond Lakes to 
 Tem.i.iiamin.u I.ake, iml mn again l.y Kahl.it I.ake and Mctahel- 
 cluMuian kivn to Tt-miskainiiin I.ake, is a canof route une<|ual- 
 "1. in any stiise, h\ ,,ny othtr route availahU- for the tourist or 
 canoeist in the Dominion. I.on-iT and 1^'ss .nxessihU' routes 
 may h.- taken, where lime in months insicid of wit-ks, is le- 
 
 ACKciSS IIMACV Ml N(,, 
 
 quired lo do the trip; t)nl lor a two v,,,c-ks' or tin davs' trip, 
 none other will confer so much condensed enjoyment for the 
 time taken as the Temisk-Tema^janung Route. The Ontario 
 Government is now taking slei)s to create a .Xational I'ark in 
 tliis regiofl, i)urposing to reserve for this object the lands sur- 
 ronnding Temagaming, Diamond and I.ady I'.velyn Lakes, 
 comprising about 1,500 square miles. 
 
 The climate of this region is all that can be desired by any 
 person, be he weakly or strong, ailing or healthy. l'"rom a 
 table ol temperatures elsewhere, it will be seen that Ilailevbury 
 (the one -Meteorological station on Lake Temiskaming) has the 
 more favorable tenii)erature with less range, as compared with 
 
I_V (JCtii|)US- 
 
 est to will) 
 'li.iiiiiiii;^," 
 II spiMkiiij^ 
 (liniciilt to 
 111- seiii lo 
 itc. I'roiii 
 l.ikfs lu 
 <1 Mitahel 
 e iiiie(|ii,il 
 ? Inmisl oi 
 lilf Inliles 
 
 Lt'kN, is le- 
 
 C.raveiiluirsl, in ihi- Miiskok.i Di-^trict— llie favoriti' siiiiiiiu'r 
 ifsotl of great iiiiiiibcrs of onr iieigli'i'Ts lo I he soutli. The 
 land is lii^li a plateau ; llie streams arc swiii ; tlie lakes of 
 clear, piiro water, haviiij^ mostlv Ihoir soiiici-s in spriiij^s ; iiiar- 
 slies are rem irkahle for lluir alisence ; malaria is unknown. 
 Cirtain grasses and rye the polk-n of whicli, wliik- in hlossoin, 
 is claiimdhy eelel. rated nasii and throat spceiali-,ts lo he the 
 direct cause of "ha\ fever "--are not indi.nenous to the soil. 
 Tis a liberal fact thai the peojjle resident on the shores of the 
 Lake— excepting; the Indian— die of old aj^e. 
 
 (Juoting from a letter written by I'rof. i;. Stoiu Wi^iKins, 
 M.I). ( I'eb,, iSySi he say> : 
 
 " I am j,'reatly indebted to llie salubrity of its climate for 
 the recovery of my lualth, sshicli lia'l become shattered from 
 ollkial confinement. I know of no region in Canada where llie 
 alniosphere is so delightfully cool, and pure, during the hoi 
 season. Theri' are no low lands to create carbonic L;ases. and 
 
 lays' trip, 
 lit for the 
 e Ontario 
 il Park in 
 aiids siir- 
 n Lakes, 
 
 (1 by any 
 I'roni a 
 lileybury 
 ) has the 
 ired with 
 
 OI'KMKdN — |,|H)K1N( 
 
 'W N I.AKl 
 
 consequently no malaria or endemics of any description. If 
 foreigners knew of the health-yielding elements of those moun- 
 tains and streams in their wild nobility, it would become one of 
 the great summer resorts of Canada. With jjartridge and deer 
 in abundance, here and there the giant moose, the shining 
 trout in every stream, it is the fairyland of the sportsman— the 
 Adirondacks of the Dominion." 
 
 Dr. P. H. Hryce, M.A., :\I.D., of the Ontario Province Board 
 of Health, thus writes in a ])amphlet from whic!; we quote : 
 
 "Lying between the Ottawa River and Lake Huron, and 
 extending northward to the " Height of Land," are series upon 
 •series of lakes and siieams, similar to those of .Muskoka, attain- 
 ing in Lakes Temiskaming and island -dotted Temagaming even 
 larger areas, and marked notably in Temagaming by a loveli- 
 ness as unicjue as it is rare There removed from 
 
Ihe (lust and smoke of cities, and those many im])urities ever 
 attaching to settled human habitations, thousands from ihe 
 cities to the soulli ate destined to find not only vigor in exercise 
 and rest through unbroken slumbers to the overworked brain, 
 but also relief from that plague of town dwellers, the neurosis! 
 which many choose to call " hay fever." Dependent primarily 
 upon exhausted nervous energy, followed by malnutrition and 
 loss of tone in the respiratory mucous membranes, the dust of 
 tlie street, the vitiated liouse atmosphe:e8 and the damp of 
 nigl'.t air in cities create an iriitation which makes nasal con- 
 gestions and catarrhs the bane of city lite during the long sum- 
 mers of tlie cities to the south. To such norUiern districts as 
 these we have mentioned the sutTerer may go, resting assured, 
 on the ex])erience of many, that he need )nly paddle his canoe,' 
 or bask in the mellow sunshine and sleep under a canopy of 
 
 mWl.K li.M) (II I.AKi:— TEMISKAMINC, SIAIION. 
 
 hemlock boughs tipon the shores or islands of these northern 
 lakes to be relieved, almost in a day, of what may have caused 
 him months of discomfort and suffering." 
 
 Dr. Paul Outerbridge, of New York, who, with his lady, 
 has spent i)art of several summers on Lake Temiskaming, thus 
 replies to a query eddressed to him : — 
 
 "It affords me the greatest pleasure to be able to testify to 
 the l)eauly and general healthfulness of the Lake Temiskaming 
 country. 
 
 " As for hay fever, of which yon speak specially, I cannot 
 imagine such a disease there ; and as for persons suffering 
 from hay fever, they could probably find no better place in 
 which to get rid of it." »] 
 
iiiities ever 
 s from ihe 
 ill exercise 
 ked l)raiii, 
 i neurosis, 
 t priinaiily 
 trition and 
 lie dust of 
 e damp of 
 nasal con- 
 long sum- 
 listricts as 
 K assured, 
 his canoe, 
 canopy of 
 
 I 
 
 northern 
 ve caused 
 
 his lady, 
 ing, thus 
 
 testify to 
 iskaming 
 
 I oaiuKit 
 suffering 
 place in 
 
 And again : ' I haw spent 
 a ])art of several snmm(.TS in 
 that region, and take pleas- 
 ure in saying that it is most 
 delightful and healthful ac- 
 cording to my observation 
 and experience there." 
 
 Prof. E. Stone Wiggins, 
 comparing the sanitary co;;- 
 ditions of cities with those of 
 the country, refers to tlie 
 Temiskaming District as fav- 
 orable to persons afflicted 
 with pulmonary diseases. 
 He writes : — 
 
 " It is absurd, from a sci- 
 entific point of view, to sup- 
 pose tliat fifty thousand 
 people living within an area 
 of five s(|uare miles, can be 
 as healthy, or can attain to as 
 great an ;ige, as if thoy occu- 
 pied a territory of iwo thous- 
 and s(iuare miles, the aver- 
 age population of the settled 
 rural districts of Canada. Ihit 
 even among the latter, like 
 conditions tell the same tale; 
 for the section where carbon 
 gases are most generated, 
 puhiionary affections are 
 most prevalent. Mountain- 
 ous countries, therefore, are 
 not subject to consumption, 
 bronchitis, ague, pneumonia, 
 hav fever, andother pulmon- 
 ary disorders; for the carbon 
 compounds evaporated from 
 sewers, and decaying animal 
 and vegetable matter, have 
 no exisitiice, and the lungs 
 are not over-l>urdeiied by the 
 heavy air, as in low and foggy 
 countries. Hence, the states 
 bordering on the Rockies, 
 and the region of our Laur- 
 eiitian mountains, especially 
 
in the TeiniskamiiiK district, are the paradise, the winds of 
 which carry healin.i^ on their wings to all who are afflicted witii 
 consumption. This is forcibly true of the latter, as I learned 
 from personal experience. On the shores of this great lake 
 there are no marshes ; the mountains are clad with coniferous 
 trees from base to summit-the red pine being in abundance- 
 and the pure air, laden with tlie odor of balsam, is healthy an.l 
 healing to the respiratory organs. I lence some physicians have 
 sngge-sted that a hospital for patients suffering from any lung 
 trouble, sliould be established on this lake. " 
 
 To that sulTeriiig class afTlicted with Hay lever Temiska 
 nnng Lake District offers, through its atmosphere. 'an imme- 
 diate balm. The words of a prominent New York physician 
 who has spent part of several summers here : -As to hay fever' 
 I cannot imagine any person suffering from that affliction in that 
 
 ACROSS TKMACAMIN,-, I'OKTV-TWO ISLAN'DS I.N IMCTURK. 
 
 locality," tersely expresses what is well-known to a few to be a 
 fact. luideinic an.l epidemic diseases are unknown. Persons 
 slowly convalescing. an<l others whose systems are run down 
 and in need of changeful rest-to all such, by the healing effect 
 of the pure air. rich in ozone, and permeated with balsamic pro- 
 perties derived from passing over and among the almost count- 
 less miles of coniferous trees-the benefit obtained is a^ once 
 perceptible and permanent. 
 
 TOfRISTS KATl'S To TE-MI.SKAMINC. 
 I'OR ToiRisTs. Hunting and Canoeing Parties. 
 
 ^Z : : : ■ ""b: ■;;; Vt ^o^l^t ^:^::'^-'^-b ^j- ^•°--''- 
 
 ^^ '""°''^' .'""'^ via. liuffalo. riiiladelphia;: '^e'.^s", via. New York 
 
 De roft f:V^ vin' ' "'■°'""- {'.'."t.'"'^ ^'■^' ^'i'''' Buffalo ' 
 
 ^'^'°" 21.25, vin. Wa.shington .. 39.30, via. 
 
 Tickets on .sale at all Canadian I'acific Railway Ticket Offices at Hip 
 
 ber''oth':;n°H'1'' '^'r'"'^' ""^!,-''" P'i"^ipal points from Majfst to Octo 
 her 30th, good to return until November 30th, inclusive, 
 
 
le winds of 
 fTlicted witii 
 as I learned 
 i K'reat lake 
 li coniferous 
 bundance — 
 healthy and 
 sicians have 
 ini any lung 
 
 r, Teniiska- 
 , an inime- 
 physician, 
 y hay fever, 
 lion in that 
 
 'I'AEI,!'; Sllowix 
 
 :rk. 
 
 e\v to be a 
 Persons 
 run down 
 ling effect 
 saniic pro- 
 ost count- 
 is at once 
 
 Montreal. 
 
 Mew York. 
 Juffalo. 
 
 fices at the 
 St to Octo- 
 
 lA. MO.STMS HKKK M KXT.O.NK,,. HAW,,.VHrKV ,s „.V , , k , 
 M.SKAM..NO. (HKOM M K iK..,<0,.00 K.X ,. SKKVU,: ,„ C,^Nu^ 
 
 (Ktawa 
 
 <Juel)ec 
 
 N'ew York '. '. 
 Hoston . . 
 Philadelphia' 
 
 Haileybiiry . 
 • '■rave'iihnfsl 
 TorntUo , 
 Ottawa .....'.■ 
 
 Uiiebec 
 
 New York , 
 
 Bcston 
 
 Philadelphia '. 
 
 Jl-.NK. 
 
 Name of Place. 
 
 Mailcvbiirv . 
 r.raviniiiifst 
 Toronto . . 
 
 Ottawa 
 
 yuebec 
 
 New N'ork . . 
 
 Ko.stc n 
 
 l'hila(lfl))hia 
 
 jri.Y. 
 
 Haikvbnry I if, - 
 
 C.ravfiiliur.st : /^•' 
 
 Toronto. .. : ''^■'> 
 
 Ottawa ... i "°-2 
 
 Uuebec... I l"-^ 
 
 New York ; '•■'' 
 
 Boston ... I '■'•■ 
 
 Philadelphia'..'; i I!., 
 
 
 •^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 J. 
 
 
 
 
 
 «/ 
 
 ■/. 
 
 Mean 
 
 
 .Mean 
 
 tl 
 
 
 Dailv 
 
 CI 
 
 ,j 
 
 <i 
 
 
 
 Kaiifje 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 fu.,1 
 
 ss.,, 
 
 .^2-0 
 
 21.7 
 
 2,^3 
 
 6 
 
 "•1 . ^ 
 
 N7.0 
 
 4-'.o 
 
 [ 
 
 '',S . 4 
 
 9".o 
 
 •IS-6 1 
 
 IS 7 1 
 
 
 66.2 
 6< 1 . 9 
 6.S.9 
 6.S.S 
 
 72.,) 
 
 N6.y 
 
 •I.S.l 
 
 2.:3 ! 
 
 
 X2.,^ 
 
 ■l-'-.S 
 
 i». 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 9,|.i> 
 
 50.0 
 5,i." 
 
 1 6 . ,T j 
 
 19.0 
 
 4 
 1 1 
 
 s 
 
 89.. s 
 94.0 
 
 9.S.0 
 
 N9.-' 
 99" 
 99.0 
 100. 
 
 I 
 
 .■^7.S 
 
 22., ? 
 
 I 
 
 ,V.(> 
 
 27-9 
 
 
 
 42.1 
 
 2J.S 
 
 I 
 
 41." 
 
 24.7 
 
 2 
 
 40.0 
 
 20. S 
 
 - 
 
 .^7 ■" 
 
 14.0 
 
 9 
 
 .'.=.. 
 
 I'>.o 
 
 9 
 
 .S7.0 
 
 IH.O 
 
 I J 
 
 da v> 
 
 ACca-ST. 
 
 Ilaileybnry ^^ 
 
 • '.ravenhiirst , 
 
 Toronto . . 
 
 Ottawa '.'.'..'.'. 
 
 ynebee 
 
 New York 
 
 lio.ston 
 
 Philadelphia .!.;;.';.' 
 
 6 
 
 6,S.4 
 69.7 
 
 67 -s 
 6, .6 
 74 -.'i 
 7,5 •' 
 76. S 
 
 So. 8 
 89.0 
 96.0 
 ■^S.o 
 8.VO 
 
 t.O.O 
 
 94') 
 93'> 
 
 41.0 
 
 IS.., 
 
 ,S 
 
 lays. 
 
 41 .0 
 
 21. () 
 
 2 
 
 
 4". 5 
 
 22.0 
 
 I 
 
 
 42.6 
 
 21). 
 
 1 
 
 
 44-6 
 
 16.0 
 
 7 
 
 
 60.0 
 
 12.0 
 
 in 
 
 
 ,S5 . 
 
 Ifi.o 
 
 10 
 
 
 60.0 
 
 l.S.o 
 
 <i 
 
 
 Sl'PTE.MIlHR. 
 
 Haileyburv ! ,_ 
 
 fjravenluifst ... . •'/ 
 
 Toronto.. 59- ? 
 
 62.8 
 61.0 
 
 68.9 
 66.2 
 71.4 
 
 s.'^.S 
 91. 
 
 97-1 
 90.0 
 H.S.2 
 94-0 
 92.0 
 96.0 
 
 OCTOIIER. 
 
 42..^ 
 46.6 
 46. n 
 50..-, 
 44 -.S 
 .S7.f) 
 .S4.2 
 58.6 
 
 n 
 
 76.. s 
 
 S2 . 
 
 77 -o 
 79.. S 
 72. ,S 
 
 So. II 
 S.S.o 
 S3.0 
 
 ^' -7 
 31.0 
 .vS ?, 
 32.2 
 36.0 
 49.0 
 44.0 
 ,Si.o 
 
 16.0 
 ISO 
 26.0 
 27.9 
 24.8 
 .3S.0 
 M-o 
 3.S.0 
 
 IS. 7 
 
 21.2 
 
 3 
 r) 
 
 ■9.3 
 
 2 
 
 22., S 
 
 3 
 6 
 
 I.S.O 
 IS.O 
 17 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 7 
 
 3 day." 
 
 I.S.7 
 
 7 da\ 
 
 ',S.4 
 
 4 " 
 
 14.9 
 
 7 •• 
 
 ■3.7 
 
 6 ■• 
 
 12.6 
 
 14 •• 
 
 14.0 
 
 12 " 
 
 14.0 
 
 I J " 
 
 l.i.o 
 
 u ■■ 
 
i 
 
 13 
 
m 
 
 OUR TRIP. 
 a: 
 
 Ottawa. 
 
 1 
 
 At Ottawa, as a slartiii;,' point, the Canadian raciilc Rail- 
 way is l)(\ir(k'(l, tlie destination bcin^' Tciniskaining Station, 
 for which phice all baj,'gage should be checked and tickets 
 purchased. Hut a few words as to where we are. 
 
 This city, the Capital of the 
 Dominion and where is the Vice- 
 Regal residence of the(io\ernor- 
 General, is the centre of the 
 large lumbering interests of the 
 Ottawa Valley. The Chaudiere 
 I'alls exemplify the immense 
 water power available, a part of 
 which large manufacturing con- 
 cerns have utilized. The Par- 
 liamentary and Governmental 
 offices are located in magnificent 
 structures, conunandingly situ- 
 ated on the high olufTs forming 
 one of thefvanksof the " Grand" 
 River, the name the noble 
 Oitawa was known by in old- 
 time days. And grand and 
 nobly pictures(|ue it truly is 
 from its source — almost north of 
 Ottawa — as it flows on its varied course ; now through narrow- 
 gorge in wild career ; then in majestic leap o'er rocky ledge ; 
 and again in calm and broad expanse ; running west iliro' un- 
 known wilds; then south, and finally east to its outlets — one 
 into the St. Lawrence, at the head of, and the other into the 
 same rivet, at the foot of, the island on which Montreal stands 
 — a total flow of 800 miles. Ottawa is charmingly situated on 
 high ground, well laid out, with an electrical service second to 
 none on the continent, and is, indeed, an electiical centre of 
 note. The Parliament Buildings are well worth seeing, the 
 Library (a connected structure), especially, being a gem in 
 architerture. The scenic view frou) the grounds near the 
 Ivibrary is equalleil I)y few places in the Dominion. P'or many 
 reasons, Ottawa is a place of great interest, and well worthy of 
 a lengthened visit. Its hotels are, as the Capital City demands 
 among the best in the Dominion. 
 
 THE I.IHKARY. 
 
 13 
 
Tho Kh takn,g Ottawa as our starting point, .c will a.ld 
 t ut Jen, skaMung can be as easily reache.l from Sault Ste 
 lane a„.l all pou.ts south and west, hy the Canadian I-adfic 
 Ka.l way ; from Toronto, and all points sonth and east as far as 
 irenton. by Canadian Pacinc, C^rand Trunk, and Canada Atlan- 
 tc Railways ; frcn Kingston, by Kingston & Pen.broke Rail- 
 ^^a^ and Canadian Pacific Railway ; from Hrockville bv Can 
 
 mi:: thf ''''^''- r "'^^ '^'^'^ ^-^ -'^ -^•^' ^>'^ 1 
 Ottawa the convenient place from u hich to start 
 
 skiH!'''7,"^' "^'i'"'- ^^^ ' •''^•^'■■«ifi-' '■••'> of '98 miles-now 
 skutu g the wide waters of the Ottawa, with the Laurentian 
 Mountains as a distant background ; then thro' beautiful pas- 
 
 ^FATTAWA. 
 
 toral scenery, alternated with thriving towns and villages • then 
 agam the ga.e meets the placid-mayhap. unrulv, wind-iossM 
 -Ottawa, along the bank of which a rapid course is taken 
 And with ever-changing scenes, we run amid mountains rock" 
 swift nvers, and calm lakes, till at last we again behold the 
 (Htawa River-deep, narrow, and conllned-for now the Laur- 
 enttan range (the distant background of an earlier scene) form 
 Its precipitous side on the Quebec shon-. Thus, thro' now bold 
 and rugged scenery, our course lies along the river bank until 
 Mattawa ,s reache.l. at which place passengers change cars for 
 lemiskaming. 
 
 14 
 
no will adtl 
 1 Sault SU'. 
 diaii Pacific 
 ast as far as 
 iiada Atlau- 
 Ijroke Rail- 
 le, by Caii- 
 itli will find 
 
 iiiles— now 
 Laurentian 
 lutiful pas- 
 
 Mattawa, 
 
 ces ; then 
 ud-toss'd 
 s taken, 
 lis, rock, 
 lold the 
 lie Laur- 
 ie) form 
 ow bold 
 nk until 
 cars for 
 
 ^ 
 
 At the confluence of the Ottawa River from the north, and 
 the Mattawa River from the west, is a distributing' centre of the 
 lumber trade, very picturesquely situated, and of ,^^reat interest 
 from a geolo,<,ncal point of view, An historical fact equally 
 interesting, is, it was here, in 1615, the noted Champlain left 
 the Ottawa River, (on his search for the short passa.i^e to China) 
 on finding its course was from the north, and followed :\Iattawa 
 River \'alley and Nipissing Lake to Oeorgian Hay. 1-rom here 
 the proposed Ottawa and (Georgian Hay Shii) Canal will leave 
 the Ottawa, then following the valley of the :\Liltawa River, and 
 
 Kicvii.'s UAKDKX, skvi;n I.1-..\( ;uic I Aki:. 
 
 a valley or depression in the land— once the presumed outlet of 
 Xipissing Lake— will enter that lake. In Mattawa the Hudson 
 Hay Company and other merchants have general stor,-s, where 
 hunting parties can be ]irovisioned, canoes, guides, and all re- 
 quisites pertaining to a properly equipped expedition, procured 
 without trouble. Mr. Colin Rankin, late I'aclor of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Co. for this district, resides in Mattawa— a gentleman 
 well-known throughout the Ottawa Valley ; who is a fund of 
 information and story, and knows the country well, bv canoe 
 and otherwise, from Lake Superior to Labrador. 
 
 After breakfast, procured at any of the hotels— of which 
 there are several— the train is boarded for Temiskaming. And 
 
 15 
 
>.<nv cuin.neiices one of Ihv ,„ost i,ictnn.s,,i,e an,l interesti.K' 
 railway journeys, for llie distance, some vS miles, there is in 
 tlie Donnnion east of tlie Rocky Mountains. The line is built 
 on the east side of the Ottawa River-now Howiiig from the 
 north-winding in and out, as it follows strictly the Ottawa's 
 course and contour. In places the rails are laid on roadbeds 
 blasted out of the face of cliffs towering perpen.Iicularly more 
 than a hundred ft-et above the train, and beautifnllv crested 
 with trees and shrubbery. Then again the train th'reads its 
 sinuous course along the base of mountains clothed with ver- 
 dure, the Ottawa always with us on one side-here (lowing 
 placidly ,n broadened stream, as we skirt the shore of Seven 
 
 NKAR TMK NARROWS, SKVI3N LI-ACUK LAKK. 
 
 League Lake for i8 miles-and again in many tumultuous and 
 angry rapids. The scenery on both sides of the river is always 
 .k^rand, in many places n ajestic. There are five rapids in the 
 course of the Ottawa betueen Mattawa and Teniiskaming the 
 last of wluch-the r,ong SaHt-is 6>4 miles long. The other 
 principal rajiids are La Cave, I.es 1-rables, and Mountain. Fish 
 are abun.lant in all these waters. The scenery of the vallev of 
 the Ottawa, between Mattawa and Temiskaniing. has be-^n des- 
 cnbed as equal to that of the Rhine, but the Ottawa has in its 
 favor the beauties of the wild waters of its numerous rapids. 
 
 i6 
 
t 
 
 TKMISKA.MINC; STATION. 
 
 
 TemisKaming Station 
 
 Is at the lower end of Lake Teiiiiskaiiiin^, and at the head 
 of the Lonj( SauU Rapids. ( The Indian word " Tenii-isk-kanii- 
 ng," means— in that very expressive and descriptive languajje 
 —"where is deep and shallow water," from the fact that in all 
 hays on the lake between the points, the water is always shallow, 
 deepening very gradually until near an imaginary line fiom 
 point to point, when the bottom at once slopes down very 
 steeply to many feet, in many places into the hundreds. ) 
 "The Lumsden Line" of steamers make regular connection 
 with the Canadian Pacific Railway at Temiskaming Station, 
 leaving for all points on the Lake. There are commodious 
 warehou.ses and offices built for the accommodation of the 
 passenger and freight traffic, as well as a modern hotel called 
 
 ii 
 
 The BelleVUe H-oUse," 
 
 Which stands embowered in trees and shrubbery, over- 
 looking the Lake and station, and within a short distance of 
 both. Having registered, we note that it is a new and sub- 
 stantially built house, well furnished and carpeted throughout 
 in first-class style, electrically lighted, has baths, etc., and sup- 
 plied by gravitation with hot an cold spring water on all floors. 
 In connection therewith, though in a separate building a few 
 feet distant, is a Recreation Hall, containing billiard roc- 
 bowling alley, sample rooms, etc., while the upper store;, 
 
 17 
 
nitfdjnm as a largt- ball room „r 
 
 >r concert hall, with aoct-ssorv 
 ■uoms. and all electrically lighted. The recreation n.on.s hein^ 
 "•^'-sq-aralrhuildinK ensures a home-like quietness to family 
 parties slayn>« al the Hotel proper. I.awn tennis and ^olf are 
 also amouK I lie recreations available. 
 
 I 
 
 With many tourists and sportsmen contemplating taking 
 one of the many canoeing trips that can be made thron-h m, 
 Mupassable scenery on lakes adjoining Temiskaming, ( of which 
 n.eauon will be made later on) the fact of having to leave their 
 families belund is a consideration and a drawback; but at "The 
 
 
 l8 
 
lielleviie" thiv can Icavi- llicir " dear ones" vvhilt- tlie> lake 
 tlie trip, spciireiii llu- C(,iivicli()ii of llieir saffiy and wi-ll hiin;;, 
 and eiijo\ inji llie hcndits of tlie piiii- air of Uie ci.iiMli v. 
 
 fn no olliiT ])lace in Canada can llir loinist and si)orlNnian 
 lind siicli ad\anla;^i-a as at "TIk' Ik'lKvne llousi^," I.akc' Tein- 
 iskaniiny,'. 'I'lie Like is easy of aei-ess ; tlieie is a well app(jint- 
 ed and Inxnrions modern hotel ; lisli and j^aine in abnndance 
 at Us door as ojjposed to the many over-run summer resorts 
 where lisli and ^ nne are mylliical and legendary ; travel on 
 I.ake by steamer, with ap|)()intmi'nts ciinal to tlie best, thron^li 
 scenery uneiiualled in tlie I.iurenlian type, surpassing, it is 
 claimed, even the beauty of the far-famed Sagueiiay. A few 
 minutes run by train brinj,'s us to Kii)peua I.ake, so dilTermt 
 in its outlines to Lake Temi.-,kaiiiin-. Ii is a lake of manv and 
 dee|. bays and inlets a lake of lake-., of inlands ^\v.\i and 
 
 / 
 
 liii; ' Mi'ri:i)K." 
 
 small, whose waters teem with fish. The lake has a coast line 
 of about (r.v> miles, though occupyini; but a comparatively small 
 space on the map, owinj,' to its m my intricate channels and 
 great expansions. The country bordering its waters is far- 
 famed fur its large game. "The Lumsden I.ine " Steamers 
 run to all i)arts of the lake. .\nd to those who love canoe ex- 
 cursions, Temiskaming, with its numerons by-ways to oilier 
 lakes, affords numberless routes through unlimited tracts of ever- 
 changing scenery, with ever-present fish and game in abundance. 
 After doing full justice to a well-cooked dinner of several 
 courses, served in the best stvle, we repair to the wharf, and 
 note with satisfaction that we will loose nothing in comfort by 
 the change from railway to steamboat travel. 
 
 19 
 
The 
 
 '* MetKor." 
 
 Hoardiiij,' this sleHiiuT (oiu- 
 of tlif lioats of •' The I.iiiiis- 
 "Ini Line " \ f«,i a trip ovti 
 Ihi I.aki', thiiiri' to IViiiaj^a 
 iiiiiiK l.aki, it is soon rtali/- 
 t'll that it is not a boat of tho 
 coiiiinon riiii, luit a spe«>dy, 
 staiMU-li, steel coniijositi- hull, 
 fiill-powi'ied, up-to-date pas- 
 si'U|,'er steaiuor, fully t'(|uip- 
 ped in all it-spri-ts, and t-lec-- 
 trically lijjlitfd tlirouj,'liout. 
 The saloon and couiniodioiis 
 staterooms are well furnish- 
 ed, and, withal, striotly up- 
 to-date. Tlie steamer service 
 is of a tlrst-class d<s<'ripUon, 
 and wi' already are anticipat- 
 ing the pleasures of the jour- 
 ney before us. 
 
 I.eavinjj; the wharf, our 
 course is neuly north (llie 
 I, ike lyinj^r .generally north 
 and south), for 12 miles over 
 the narrowest })arl of the 
 I, ike. ( The accompanyin.n 
 .Map at tlie end of hook will 
 he an aid to the tourist and 
 sportsman in locating,' points 
 of interest, and ran be re- 
 peatedly referred to with 
 ])rorit on trips through the 
 country. ) The water for that 
 distance has a gentle flow 
 and deep, and is environed 
 bv high hills, and, in many 
 yiaces, precipitous cliffs, 
 clothet'. Ml nature's green. 
 The l.cki: marks the bound- 
 ary line between the two 
 Provinces. .V mile from the 
 wharf we pass through Col- 
 ton's Narrows, about 1 70 feet 
 
widp, ami a ^oml lisliinj^ iil.icc. A mile farther up we see Crab 
 Island, a siniU island (covered at lii^di water), just npixisitf a 
 depression in thr hills on the (tuehec shore tin- now drv lied 
 of a stream of pre historic davs. I'lie island, a noted trolling 
 and rod-lishin),' |)laie, is a half way spot on wliii h moose and 
 <leer stand when cros.in^ at iliis a favorite j)oint from one 
 shore to the other (in the < iirhfc shore, east of Crah Island, 
 and distant one mile tr.nM rctniskainiiiK Lake, is Tioiil i,akt , 
 u sheet of w.itir about ('2 miles loni; and a half to a mile 
 witle, which implies into < iordon Crick alxml two miles above 
 Tennsknniiii;; Station. The lake abonmls in lar^e K'ey tront 
 and other iish, and there is ^'ood fishing all the way up the 
 Creek, from its outlet on Cordon Creek, to the lake. A road 
 c.xteiuls to it from Temiskaininj,; .Station, and another one from 
 
 ll.N will ri', I UKl K 
 
 i'emiskatning Lake, near Crab Island. .\ j.,'ood moose and deer 
 country surrounds it, and i)artridge are abundant. Now we 
 pass Porcupine Creek, on the OntHrio side, risinj,' in and flow- 
 ing through, a game abounding -es])ecially moose and deer — 
 country of bush and beaver meadow. Seven miles from our 
 starting point Schooner Island is passed, so called from its 
 resemblance to a schooner in the distance. Apjiarently we are 
 coming to the end of the Lake, for high ground seemingly 
 shuts us in on all sides but the way we came. We sail on, 
 wondering ; presently an opening to tlie westward presents 
 to us a vista beyond, tho' still limited as before, .\head of us 
 lies Thompson's Hay, from where bush or " chantier " roads 
 radiate in all directions, and back to a chain of lakes, well 
 stocked with fish, and which all drain into Gordon Creek, 
 
 21 
 
OpemiGon. 
 
 Soon we reacli Openiicon < com,])te.l pronunciation and 
 
 spellu.^ofthe Indian word "Oh-a.ljwan-n^,- signifying "place 
 where >s narrow swift water - ,. a prettily sitnated' post ..mce, 
 and tl,e depot .,f the Ta- Lunisden I.ine of Steamers on Ten.- 
 "skainin- Lake, which are at present the "Argo " " Meteor " 
 
 ■•<'l-.mcon/'--TenHskan,ing/-''r)ora,''and''Cl'vde.''hesl,i;s 
 nee Alligators,"' or small powerful steam winch paddle boats 
 Here are the shipya'd and workshops, and it is also the winter 
 quarters of the ste.nu-rs ; .listant nir. miles from Temiskannn-. 
 
 not ; 
 Cree 
 
 as w 
 
 **^*''— -t— -' "'■'*„^ ^ 
 
 <)i'i;Mri. ON !• (). 
 
 Station. Nearby three streams enter the Lake, each the outlet 
 of several lakes. Two of the streams, the Opemicon and Green 
 Creek, are on the Ontario shore, wliile White Creek, whose 
 
 ■ Mver rippling- waters ket-p 
 A course of lively plensure.' 
 
 is on the Ouehec shore. All three furnish good speckled trout 
 hshinga short distance from their months up to their source 
 while the lakes emptying into (Ireen and Opemicon Creeks 
 abound with the same llsh (.,/>.., /;,.//„,,/,„), ,ome of Ihem as 
 long as 2,. inches. The writer has not caught so large a 
 speckled trout ,„ White Creek, but they are plentiful in size up 
 to ,2 inches. Xo doubt there are larger ones in favorite haunts 
 
 t: 
 
 lakes, 
 transp 
 thems 
 or bai 
 lake \\ 
 trout I 
 
 22 
 
not yet fished. In White Lake, one of the sources of White 
 Creek, are 1o be found large like whitelish and salmon trout, 
 as well as pike, dore, bass, etc. 
 
 TKOUT 1 ISIIlNd-On-MKllN CKIl.K. 
 
 The Fishing. 
 
 The sources of Opeinicon and Green Creeks are several 
 lakes, each fed by numerous sprinj^s, through whose waters of 
 transparent emerald tint the trout can be observed disporting 
 themselves at a depth of 12 or more feet, ere they rise to the fly 
 or baited hook. Marine growths cover the bottoms of these 
 lake waters, among the foliage of which the beautiful speckled 
 trout finds the greater i)ortion of its food. This description 
 
 23 
 
trse'and olr """>'J^>^^^ '" ^'^ "cighborhood, tributary to 
 iiiese and other creeki; \ ir,,nA . i , 
 
 t <-. crecKS. A tr,,o,i waggon road— by which all 
 
 supphes ,„ o.l days were brought into the country-connnenc 
 
 at the lake shore, near the month of the Ope.nicon Creek .,nd 
 
 t::^u''':'Vt''''' ^° ^"^ -nt,:-westfo:^::Hs;;" 
 
 o o e than twelve nnles, where- it ends on another road rnn- 
 mng at right angles to it, both nou unused. There is an old 
 
 nnber,ng depot and farn, on the road , through which O.en ! 
 
 an Lreek passes, half a nnle fron, Tenuskannng I,ake With 
 U,a, except,on the country is wholly unsettled and in nature's 
 
 ^^^^:^^ n """"" "'■' ''""^'•^'' '■"'^■^ ^■^•'1^ ^° ""'^'^^ - ^i>-t- 
 gttt.ng through the bttsh. The surrounding countrv on both 
 
 CAMl' 111' OTTAWA PARTY, Ol'K.M ION. 
 
 Sides Of the Ottawa are favorite grounds of n.oose and deer, and 
 partrtdge. or rufTed grouse, are plenteous in the bush anil on 
 the bush roads, which extend in all <lirections on both shores 
 of the lake for its whole extent. 
 
 The gun is always a necessary adjunct to ar.y Hshing trip 
 in these regions, tor the partri.lge ts a daintv tnorsel not to be 
 . esp,sed ,n the cantp ,...., especially if it is toasted before 
 the can.p hre on a forked stick; and likewise the hare and 
 cloves comnnngled with a proportionate quantitv of water and 
 <luly cooked, is always acceptable. Perchanc; a deer or a 
 nmose wanders dnwn to the lin.pid uaters and gazes on the 
 perhaps too-.ntent di.sciple of I.aak Walton, and then -lisgust: 
 
 is Unl " '" "" '"t "^"''' " ^-''--^ -1-^ -auner of 'nan 
 •s this , or again, he might fall to the unerring aim of the 
 
 24 
 
'd, tributary to 
 —by wliich all 
 ■y — commences 
 con Creek, and 
 t for a distance 
 )ther road run- 
 I'liere is an old 
 
 wliich Openi- 
 ;,' Lake. With 
 md in nature's 
 
 make a shoot- 
 • hard work of 
 •untrv on both 
 
 nd deer, and 
 
 ')iish and on 
 
 both shores 
 
 ' fishin.y; trij) 
 ■iol not to be 
 isted before 
 e hare, and 
 f water, and 
 deer or a 
 izes on the, 
 len dis^aist- 
 iner of man 
 aim of the 
 
 one who has one eye on his fly and the other one "all around " 
 him. A bear is liable at any time to be unexjiectedly seen, only 
 to dis;ipi)ear as (juickly if not promptly "stopped;" or the 
 courageous mink may lay claim to a share of the fisherman's 
 "bag" and put it under tribute. Tlie writer has liad that 
 experience while trout fishing, his "catch" as cauglit being 
 l)laced on a forked withe. He noted his count was kss than 
 his "catch" then scratched liis head and fislied. Rut his 
 count, instead of increasing, decreased, so he watched. (The 
 " catch " was on the ground under a fallen tree, sheltered from 
 the sun. ) Presently he noted a mink come up out of the water 
 and go to the tlsh. And while noting proceedings, another 
 mink appeared out of tlie water, which also went to the lish. 
 
 AN HOUR'S TROI.I.INC. 
 
 both endeavoring, and successfully, to drag the whole "catch " 
 to the water. The writer tlien caught hold of the withe, but 
 that did not deter them in their endeavors to secure the fish, 
 and they had to be driven off with a stick. Afterwards ihey 
 made several attempts to secure the fish, undeterred by the 
 writer's presence. The jjossibilities before mentioned necessi- 
 tate the gun being taken along on all fishing tri])S, however 
 short. In most of the known "resorts," when on a fishinL'- 
 excursion, it is fishing, pure and simple— if there are any fish 
 to be caught. In the Teniiskaming Lake country the sport is 
 diversified— a " bag " being a surety— which adds to the enjoy- 
 ment of each daily and shorter trip. 
 
 25 
 
The waters of botli the Opeinicon and White Creeks for 
 some nnles up to their lake sources-still, rapid, and falling 
 waters-afTord to the scientific or skilled -fly caster - all thf 
 sport he can desire ,n trout f.shing. The - ,noods - of the trout 
 are peculm; and are the study of the expert fishern.an. Vt cer- 
 
 he'n r '" !"''' "' ''''' ""'" '''"y ^"-^ ^^"''^1^"^ -'-"t taking 
 e (ly, though a cray-fish usually brings then, ; but in the rapicl 
 waters of these and other creeks seldo.n indeed is it they v 
 no r.se to the ,Iy or grass-hopper. On n,any occasions in tro 
 
 .sh.n,, tnps n, this section by the writer, the - bag " has bee 
 Inn.ted only by the carrying capacity or wants o' the pa" 
 
 A CO.MMON ■■ CATLll." 
 
 At the Opemicon Xarrows-where Ontario and Ouebec 
 Irovuices are only a couple of hundred feet apart-there is 
 good fishing, either by trolling or baited hook, and at certain 
 nnes good bass lly-flshing, though the bass are there at all 
 tunes, and are caught by trolling, and by hook and line Here 
 the stream runs swiftly, causing the blood to circulate the 
 qmcker ere the boatman has his craft in the still water above 
 ThexNarrows.- The fish frequenting here-and they are 
 there yet-comprise maskinonge, pike, dore or pickerel, snmll- 
 mouthed bass sturgeon, channel catfish, and in spring and fall 
 ake wh.te-fish, which are plentiful in the deep waters of the 
 lake, but cannot be caught during the summer months. The 
 
 26 
 
niiie Creeks, for 
 pid, and falling 
 y caster '• all the 
 ds" of the trout 
 leniian. At cer- 
 ?nt about taking 
 but in the rapid 
 ■<1 is it they will 
 x-asions in trout 
 ' ba^r " ],as l,een 
 ts of the partv. 
 
 and Ouebec 
 lart -there is 
 ad at certain 
 
 there at all 
 1 line. Here 
 circulate the 
 
 water aljove 
 11(1 they are 
 kerel, sinali- 
 ini^- and fall, 
 vaters of the 
 onths. The 
 
 list nf fish nicntioned are connnon to all parts of the lake, I , 
 wliich may be added the sheepshead (to be caught at mouth 
 of Montreal River) and psrch, fresh water herring, ling, eel, 
 chub, and an occasional grey trout. 
 
 The acoompanyiug picture is of a catch of fish— onlv a 
 common one— by a couple of members of a camping party of 
 ladies and gentlemen from Ottawa, who say they si)enl twoof tjie 
 most enjoyable weeks they have ever ex])erienced, while camp- 
 ing near "The Narrows." Their camp is shown in another 
 picture. The photograph " fiend " of the camping partv took 
 a picture of another of their catches, equally as large, in wjiich 
 black bass ])redominated, but did not improve his would-be 
 picture I)y taking another .scene on the same plate. I sav a 
 "coiununi" catch, as twice as many fi.sh as are shown in the 
 picture liave been caught at one time by a couple of the " boat 
 liMuds " in little less than an hour and a half. The black bass 
 run from 2 U ll)s. to 5 lbs weight usually, and have been cauglit 
 weighing 7 lbs. .\nother half-tone represents a flash-light view 
 of one hour's trolling of an Ottawa schoolboy on the last after- 
 noon of his vacation. 
 
 But to return to the continuation of the trip up the ],ake • 
 I have here dwell on a description of the fishing in lakes and 
 creeks around Opemicon, not because they are superior to 
 olliers ])elow aiul farther up, but to give a synopsis of the ex- 
 periences to be had on mostly all the lakes and creeks tributary 
 to Temiskamiug, and in the bush around them. The countr'v 
 behind the greater portion of the shore line of the Temiskami i-'- 
 is known to but few other than Indians, and many great arJas 
 have not their lakes and streams marked on the accomi)anyin" 
 niap because they have not yet been explored by surveyors^ 
 There are surer places, though less known, than Opemicon for 
 the larger game, where tlie novice will not fail in getting his 
 heart's wish-the "bringing down" a moose ~i)rovi,ling he 
 calms Ins palpitating heart, controls his nerves, and shoots 
 straight at the quarry. 
 
 Iveaving Opemicon Post Oflice, and pointing west, our view 
 by land and water is again limited-v.e art closed in' as before 
 by the hills through which no outlet can be observed- still j,ro 
 ceeding, we pass Kcho Hluff, from where a very distii'u-t double 
 echo can be heard, repeated from one shore to another Pre- 
 sently an ope.ung to the right is .seen, through which can be 
 cf'uglii a glunpse of the I.ake in its broader sweep We piss 
 throngl, •• The Narrows," and the Lake-in its calm grandeur 
 with sides of high and many jutting headlands, tree-topped and 
 faced with verdure, wherever tree or shrul) can strike a root- 
 comes into view. The ])icture disclosed enchants the eye as 
 one of exceeding softness and bold outline. A nearer examili- 
 
 27 
 
! 
 
 'A 
 
 I 
 
 
 ting c 
 
 
 Philac 
 
 
 for sc 
 
 
 groun 
 
 
 suprei 
 
 
 warfa 
 
 
 at am 
 
 
 portaj. 
 
 
 route, 
 
 1 
 
 kinds 
 
ation shows the shores to be of nigged and precipitous rocks, 
 of the gneissoid formation— of the oldest of the earth's crust. 
 
 " 'Tis distance Ifiids eiuiKintiiunl to llic view, 
 AtuI clothes the iiioinitains in its a/\ire Inie." 
 
 Iminediately above "The Narrows," Openiicou Creek is 
 noted— a picturesque lo.alf and ideal camping jilace. As we 
 sail along we pass Soucier Island, wliere is good trolling. Then 
 Otter Tail Creek shows itself, flowing noisily into the Lake. 
 I$y this creek, and numerous portages, Temagaming I.ake may 
 be reached ; but the trip is too laborious to be taken for pleas- 
 ure alone, though the best of .sport in large and small game 
 may be had on its com.se. Next 
 
 it 
 
 n;MISK.\.MIN(i l.AKi; — lUli.M I.AldrU'S Ml[.!,, 
 
 iviG/v\artin's Pofnt 
 
 On the Quebec shore, is observed ; a sandy mck-point jut- 
 ting out into the I<ake. A gentleman and his family, from 
 Philadelphia, have sjjent the season here, from May to October, 
 for some years past. The "Point" was a popular camping 
 ground of the Indians when they ranged the country as its lords 
 supreme, before the white man's advent. Stone implements of 
 warfare and the chase are found here more numerotislv than 
 at any other place on the Lake. I'rom here is an old Indian 
 portage to Kippewa Lake, several minor lakes being on the 
 route, which are, as usual, well .stocked with li.sh. Game of all 
 kinds pertaining to the district is plentiful. 
 
 29 
 
Latour's /VJili. 
 
 TlK ,ex pouu ,> note ,s I.atour's Mill, an ol.l. an,l now 
 •use.!, Inn.henn.,. depot, and wl.ere raft oars u.re sawn Co 
 f.e square tunln. rafts once so c-onnn... saulogs ha e , 
 akent.r place. Tu.nhlin, down the sides of the h. r 
 cade , seen here and there hid.len bv the foliage "Chantier - 
 
 Timber Slide. 
 
 Nearly opposite, on the Ontario shore, a creek has been 
 
 tun be. slule. i he logs are brought from the nearest lake on 
 
 "»le, gatheru.g unpetusfron, the statl, until they leap fr. 
 
 I 
 
 iin 
 
 I ROM SI I UN o( 
 
 -I 0( )KIN(, [ !■ K , 
 
 'I'lNMd Al. UUI i; .M..IMAIN, 
 
 the slide into the Lake from a heitrhth of ^. f^^t ,v. 
 
 from vip,v in 11,^ 1 "eigmu or ^5 teet, disappeanntj 
 
 30 
 
>1(1, and now 
 -^■re sawn for 
 js have now 
 le hill, a c-as- 
 "Clianticr, " 
 'lislriot, and 
 Jieions than 
 
 k has lu'en 
 ? Lake from 
 est lake, on 
 :>f a (|uarler 
 y leaj) from 
 
 ippeanng 
 iing clear 
 ' over 300 
 led ones, 
 ly, a dis- 
 he map. 
 lit game 
 
 Grand Campment Bay. 
 
 Close by is a hay with low sliores and high sloping laiiils 
 for a background. It is called Crrand Cam])nient Bay, and is, 
 as its name implies, a grand camping spot, from wlure the 
 country mentioned in the previous paragrajih can lie exploited. 
 A little farther on we see " lUil'falo Rock " a bold bluff with 
 perpendicular face, on which may be traced, with the aid of the 
 imagination, the figure of a buffalo, ontHiied by the rock strata. 
 Opposite, on the (juebec shore, is the " Indian Portage," an 
 old portage road of the Indians, from Temiskaming to Kipi)ewa 
 Lake. Several lakes shorten the ])ortaging to one mile or so, 
 in a distance of between four and live miles. Looking \\\) the 
 
 1 I-.MISKAMINC I.AKIC— |-R()M KIl'l'i.WA Kl\l:R. 
 
 lake a view is had of the Montreal Mountain, (or Great Beaver 
 .■Mountain of the Indian, from its resemblance in profile to a 
 prone beaver) some eight miles distant. 
 
 From Indian Portage to Kippewa River, a distance of 2,% 
 miles, the (juebec shore is very precipitous and most interest- 
 ing. The camera amateur will not want to i)ass without getting 
 a picture illustrating Nature's workings, where 
 
 Diiwn on the I.ake in iiuissfs tlirew 
 
 Crags, knolls, anil mounds, confus'dly hurU-il 
 
 The fragments of an earlier world." 
 
 Here and there immense masses of rock lie at the water's edge, 
 after displacement from the towering crags above them. Now 
 may be seen the iusiduousbut sure power of the growth of tree- 
 roots in aiding in disintegrating the once apparently solid rock, 
 by forcing portions out of place, which fall eventually. 
 
 31 
 
Ill our romsc over its waters it has hecoiiie more and more 
 nnpressed on our minds tliat I.ake TemiskaminK, for its greater 
 IcnKlli, is l)ut tlie result of some .i-reat seismic eonvuision, 
 creatmg one vast ,;,„,-,■ in llie eartli's crust, now lilkd with 
 water. The cleft rock on either side, in many places, would ap- 
 parently lit a^ain into its sup])osedly oriKinai position. And as 
 
 TOP IIAI.I. KII'PI:WA RIVKR lAl.LS. 
 
 if to hear out the theory, the depth of water is such that in 
 places It is helow the level of the sea oil tlie mouth of Kippewa 
 River is reputed to be 1,200 feet deep, or over 600 feet below 
 sea level, as reference to the vertical scale at the bottom of the 
 map will show. Referrin- to the map, if a line is drawn from 
 •• A " on left upper margin, diagoiiallv acjoss to " B " on right 
 hand margin, it will show the section of country aud water 
 
 32 
 
 i 
 
e and more 
 its greater 
 
 •oiivulsion, 
 lilleil witli 
 would a])- 
 
 II. And as 
 
 ^(^1 
 
 1 that in 
 Kij)pe\va 
 et below 
 ni of the 
 wn from 
 on right 
 id water 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 ! 
 
 I i 
 
 Ifvels represi-nlrd \>y the vcttical scale. I'or instance, the line 
 crosses Teiniskaniing I,ake two miles above .Alontieal Kiver 
 month, where the Lake is over |iio t'eet deep at Kippewa it is 
 nearly three tiine> that depth. 
 
 *m- 
 
 Kippewa River. 
 
 Where Ki])pewa River ( one of the outlets of Kippewa Lake) 
 flows into J^ake Temiskaming, is about 27 miles from our start- 
 ing point. The river, in its course of 1 1 miles, falls 3tK) feet, 
 causing it to be, as can well be imagined, an exceedingly tur- 
 bulent stream. .Vn easy walk t'rom its mouth is "The Big 
 
 33 
 
"mi; Noixn "— i.odKiNc; vf. 
 
 Chute,' or Kippewa River Falls, a roaring, wild-toss'd mass of 
 angry white waters, pitching over and between huge rocks into 
 the abyss below, a fall of about 70 feet in all-an awesome- sight 
 grained on the memory. 1-rom the " I-alls '" down to the lake 
 IS one turbulent rapid, with minor falls in its course. Through- 
 out Its course there is good fishing ; grey trout, bass, pike 
 pickerel and maskinonge are plentiful, while at its outlet into 
 the lake, eciually good sport is to be had, it being a noted 
 spot. 
 
 Leaving k'ippewa River, our course still lies between high 
 and rugged shores, rather more indented than usual with bays 
 on the Ouebec side. Six miles above Kippewa River is the 
 confluent mouth of the 
 
 34 
 
•'4 
 
 Metabetclieolian arid 
 /Montreal f^ivers. 
 
 Tlie foniicr Hows iioin tlie soutli-wcsl. its smirces hciii),' 
 several small hikes lyiiij{ hetween TeiiiaKamiiig and Teiiii-,ka- 
 tiiiiiK' Lakes, only a very short portage intervening between 
 Tenia^'aniinK I.'ikc i'ml the head waters of Metal.etfhennan 
 Kiver. The Montrial Kiver 11. .ws from the north-west and 
 drains a lar>,'e area of eoinitrv umth and north-west of J.ady 
 luelyn an<l TeniaKaniiiiK Lakes, all of which is ^ood ImntiiiK 
 coiMilry. There are several farms and a post ollice here. 
 .Montreal, or Heaver Mountain, near the month of the river, is 
 said to he hetween i,2(io and i,;,oo feet hi>,'h. On Montreal 
 Uiver, a few hundred yards from Lake Tenuskaniin),', is seen a 
 notable example of Nature's handiwork in 
 
 "The Notch," 
 
 ,! 
 
 Which is a narrow chasm frcjui 20 to \<i feet wide, and with 
 ])erpendicular sides. .V larj^e volume of water the swollen 
 spring Hood of the .Montreal River— passes ihroiiKh this narrow 
 "cleft" in deep How, ere it enters the Lake. Like Temi.ska- 
 min^, "The.Xotch" api)ears to he a rending in twain of the 
 rock by one of the earth's internal throes, or a shrinking aiul 
 consequent crackiui;, of the ,<;lobe's crust while cooling ; the 
 rocks have not at all the appearance of being eroded by the 
 water's action, but more the ai)i)earance of a "parting." Re- 
 ferring to the picture, it will be noticed that .Xature has tried 
 her hand at sculi)ture, for see — 
 
 • Through tlif small oihiuiik „ii,l the jjrceii l)ircli trees, 
 Towiird yonder ni()unt:iin summit toweling lii).'h, 
 Tliere pause. What doth tliy anxious (raze espy' 
 .\ crajj abrupt huii^ from the mouiitiiin's brow! 
 1,00k clo.ser : Scan that Imse sharp cliff on hi^h ; 
 .\ha I the wondrous shape bursts on thee now I 
 A perfect human face— neck, chin, mouth, nose and brow." 
 
 I'rom here is a canoe route to the Temagaining Lake by 
 way of the Bass Lakes, Metabetcheouan River, and Rabbit 
 Lake. But as the route is all " against-stream paddling," it 
 is preferable to start in at Ilaileyliury, coming out by way of 
 the Metabetcheouan— down stream. This, of course, refers to 
 parties desirous of making the round trip by way of Lady 
 Kvelyn and Temagaming Lakes. Those desiring a shorter trip 
 can go in here and lltid all the .sport they want on the Bass and 
 
 00 
 
Rabbit I,akis. The (irsl ii.uiied waters excel in niajrnificent 
 bass, and the last is well slocked with a variety of fish, while 
 Kaiiie is i)lentiful all through the country. 
 
 Proceeding, our course is due north until we reach I'ointe 
 La IJarbe, or Barber's Point, so named because it was there, in 
 bye-,L,M)ne days, the voyageurs and officials of the Hudson's Bay 
 
 Company, with their large fleets of canoes (bearing sup])lies, 
 etc., from Montreal and other places), always camped prior td 
 rounding the Point and conung in .sight of Fort Temiskaming, 
 2)4 miles distant, which was then the principal post of " The 
 Company " in this region 40 or 50 years ago. Etiquette was 
 
 36 
 
f\ni 
 
 *ii 
 
 i: i.' 
 
 strictly observt'd in those 
 (lays l)y all otlicials, and the 
 order of ihuir i)rc'cedeiice 
 rigidly adhered to. Hence 
 it was necessary that all 
 shonld cam]) here, for after 
 an arduous tri]) from Mont- 
 real, they woidd he all un- 
 shaven, and look, more or 
 less, the worse for wear and 
 unpreseiital)le. The camp 
 would soon have the ajjpear- 
 ance of an embryo laundry 
 and barber shop combinetl. 
 After a general sprucing-U]), 
 the expedition would again 
 start, but now in formal 
 order, each one in proper 
 place, according to the num- 
 ber of brass buttons on his 
 uniform. And so, in formal 
 state, they would reach Kort 
 Temiskaming, where we, too, 
 now find ourselves, admiring 
 the situation, and noting 
 the large expanse of water 
 stretching to the sky line, as 
 seen through " The h'ort 
 Narrows." 
 
 m\ 
 
 Fort 
 
 TernisKarning 
 
 Is prettily situated on a 
 gravelly point of land ex- 
 tending towards the Ontario 
 shore. A like point on that 
 shore also projects towards 
 the I'ort, forming "The Fort 
 Narrows," about 150 yards 
 wide. "The I'ort," as it is 
 shortly termed, is, as before 
 stated, a post of the Hud- 
 son's Hay Co., where trading 
 has been done for over 100 
 years past. The main busi- 
 
JK'ss is „c,.-.v transacUHl in another place, 2v; „,iles nwu- Mr 
 Mckenzie, factor of the district, res .les he/J ,',;,, ' 
 
 n..r .sidcncc Of .nan, visitors fron. ctt::::,.:^;;;:::: 1^^ 
 
 itrof T T "" ''"^ ^^"^^^'■'"' "^ "PP"«ite shore, is the 
 
 --"a. n.eeti„«, „ow hel.I at the he.ul ^ the ' e si""- " 
 -clly .h„Mn,she.l ^atherin^ as con.pared with si.t;' ^^^ " Ij 
 ^>-"g to the proxin,ity to the settlen.ent at ' 1 M . e 
 
 s;:r b;,;'^'t;-\^"^"^^'^ - - i>u'..tifn„,h;:ta^i;i 
 
 elscvvhe.c. But .^ooc^ hshu,.. can he enjoyed at - The Xarrows" 
 
 
 
 \ii.i.i; MAuir;. 
 
 for dore. pike etc. About three-quarters of a mile fron. the 
 I'-t, IS a sn.all landdocked lake of clear wate.-, well sto ke 1 
 w.th ,.,e Iar,e l.lack hass. plah.ly to he seen swi.,.n,in, . ,' 
 near U.e hotto.n. It is dilT.cult to get then, to bite tirouJ 
 
 still Z' T 'T '" !"""' ^'■°'" '''" '"^^•'^^ '^"•1 "f" ^"^' lake, a..,I 
 st.Il 6 nnles iron, the otherend. I.eavi,.,. the hort, and takin,' 
 a N.h. course, we soon arrive at I5aie des Peres, or 
 
 Ville Marie 
 
 
 weir^.!VV'"'H''7''f • "' '"''^^ '■'■""' '^'^ ''^^'- A village 
 Hell Mtuated on the h.gh lake shore, it is the ce..t.-al point of a 
 
 of It. Ihe Oblat hathers have their Mission here ; a fine brick 
 
away. Mr. 
 ilso tliesuni- 
 .a and oilier 
 iliore, is tlie 
 0(1 to Ville 
 Cfiie of the 
 1' a hundred 
 lly, and tlie 
 e, .sliows a 
 1 years ago. 
 nile Marie 
 lere as it is 
 e Xarrows" 
 
 tVoiii the 
 1 stocked 
 ii;^' about 
 thonj,di a 
 :aught in 
 
 ake, and 
 d taking 
 
 . village 
 )int of a 
 lid back 
 le brick 
 
 churcli, hospital, priests' residence, etc., the (Irev Nuns having 
 charge of the hospital and the school. There are numerous 
 stores, several hotels, two doctors, two post ofhces, notaries, a 
 saw null, grist mill, and cheese factory. Tlie Hudson's Bay 
 Co. have an establishment here also, near the steamboat wharf, 
 where everything necessary can be procured in the way of out- 
 litting a hunting or canoeing trip. 
 
 Again on our way up the I<ake, we round Wine Point and 
 note that the I<ake has here broadened out. With exception of 
 that part opposite I'oint I<e Barbe and a couple of miles below, 
 the Uke has been comparatively narrow, and seemingly more 
 so than it is really, that appearence being due to the efifect of 
 the high shores on both sides. Passing on. Drunken Island is 
 seen to the right, the scene of many an orgie in the olden days 
 of the rule of the Hudson's Bay Co. At Port Temiskaming 
 order and decorum was the rule, but at Drunken Island-out of 
 sight of the I-ort-the small keg of rum (which was part of the 
 outfit of each fleet of canoes carrying the winter supplies to all 
 tar-distant outposts i was brought forth, and then hilarious and 
 rougher conduct ruled the camp. After a couple of days thus 
 spent, a .sober and hanl-working lot of men would then start on 
 their journey, and their doings at Drunken Islan.l was but a 
 rennniscenr^ of a "good time," lasting them for a vear, or 
 until its repetition. So siys legend. 
 
 Bryson Island. 
 
 .\ii Islan.l about 2', miles in its greatest length, and deepiv 
 indented with bays, is where a gentleman from Philadelphia 
 has a hamlsome rustic residence, on a .site which commands a 
 fine view of the Lake, lie has also a line vacht, besides numer- 
 ous smaller boats, and entertains many visitors from the States 
 every summer. 
 
 Looking from the steamer past Bryson's Island, and be- 
 tween that and another island, the Silver Mine, as it is called 
 can be discerned at a distance of four miles, on the eastern 
 shore of the Lake. It is a galena mine, bearing i6 oz. of silver 
 to the ton, and is being worked. 
 
 Burnt Island 
 
 Is next approached ; about a mile wide and two and three- 
 quarters long. So called for its being over-run bv fire and the 
 timber all burnt off some twenty-five years ago, though now 
 covered by a young growth. To the geologist the shores are of 
 particular interest, as a changed formation shows up here 
 
 39 
 
very pie.liilr^ri;::;;^;^^:^:""- '''-' -'-^-^ -^ 
 
 The Frog, or 
 Castellated FfocKs, 
 
 0,,po.sitc JJurnt Island, on tl.e Ontario side, are rocks risin. 
 
 c Lr ::' uie "'r n "^ ^'^ ^^"^^^ ^'^ *' '■^■■^"^ -^ --^^ leJitt?^ :.' 
 
 foun.l .t ,60 feet. Tl,e rocks Hgure in the legendary lore of , he 
 LHl.ans, as do all notable places. Close to if Martineau Bay 
 
 TUB I'ROG 
 
 OK CASTK..LATK.. KOCKS-KROM STKAMKR. 
 
 Kood camping ^rround, and from where roads extend in «ll r 
 carry, no waggo., Ke,ng available to lighten the burden 
 
 Z+aileybury. 
 
 Passing on 31^ miles farther we reach -, „;ii 
 
 and „ite,e ,,„ e'. r,^:^:^^:^:^!"^' '■»'='- »'»-. 
 v»r,. r ^^ "^ "''^ '^^^ from this noint is 
 
 ^ery fine. Cotnn.encing here is a waggon road leaZg to 
 
 40 
 
Sharp Lake, about six miles distant, and which is on the canoe 
 route to Teniiskaniing Lake. Our party will land here on 
 return of steamer from the head of the lake. 
 
 Tliornloe, 
 
 Or Liskeard, as it was called until lately, is another village 
 at the mouth of Wahbie Creek, distant from Ilailevburv 4'^ 
 miles. Wahbie Creek is at the bottom of a deej) bay of the 
 Lake, the land rising gradually therefrom. Thornloe, like 
 Haileybury, is the trading centre for a rapidly increasing settle- 
 ment ; has a church, school-house, sawmill and stores, and is 
 a thriving community. 
 
 LDMKDICN I.INI:" STEA.MKRS. 
 
 Bound now for North Temiskaming, at the liead of naviga- 
 tion, and 354 miles from Thornloe, we pass Wahbie's Point, a 
 bold uprising of limestone rock of a cream color. Two miles 
 further on is still a greater height of similar rock of perpen- 
 dicular face, about 150 feet high, a heavy growth of trees cross- 
 ing the top. Seen from the Lake at a distance the rocks have 
 a white appearance, and so are called " The White Rocks." 
 
 Passing Chief's Island, two of the mouths of the Blanche, 
 or White River, are pointed out to us. It is a large stream of 
 water flowing from the north, draining a good but unsettled 
 stretch of country, and has three mouths-one channel emptying 
 into yuinze Riyer, called the Devil's Snye-flowiug through a 
 delta, heavily timbered with hardwoods. The river is navig- 
 
 41 
 
able for 40 mil™ up by small sleaiiiers, and Ihe ■■Amo" 
 —the low water period. '^"gi'-^i 
 
 I at.^T" -^^ "" ''"'■' ^" '"'^^ '^ ^'""""« <^»"'«e over the 
 Uke, keep.,,,, to the deep cl,a„„el of the Oui„.e River as it 
 ows o,, ,tsco,.rse a,„id the sur,ou„di„g shaHow water W>n 
 ,,g o see the ,rasses a„d other „,ari„e gro^vths o„ each side 
 
 ou of hT'T" "?" ''" ''"^'"■*' ""'^■•'^'^^ ^-^ '-" ^""^ '^-^^ once 
 out of the cha„,K.l ue „„ght wade for ,„iles at low water It 
 
 Z;-ilvT"'Tt''^'^"^ '"■"" ^^'"••^•°" ="> ^^i^'-rto ext;ao - 
 
 so ,t ,,s, a„d the stea,„er's course is well ,„arked bv the vegeta- 
 
 t.ou o„ both s,des of the cha„„el, as well as by brush-topped 
 
 aphngs stuck „,to the „.ud ou o„e si.le. I„ this ,„an„er we 
 
 Ser'a.rr "l "' 'T ""^ ''''''' '"■^•^- ^^ -"^^et of White 
 Ki\er, and fii,ally reach 
 
 North TemfsKaming 
 
 1 lie end of ot,r tnp. a„d navigation, on f.ake Te„.iska„,i„g. 
 Uea,enow on the In.lian Reserve, there being quite a setti; 
 u.ent of Indmns here. The boundary line between the two 
 provinces strikes due north fro,n near the Devil's Snye, a „,i e 
 be ow ; and the Quinze River-still the Ottawa-(so called fro,,, 
 the fifteen rap,ds on the fifteen n,iles of its cou,-se, " Quinze " 
 being the I-rench for fifteen , -is seen fiowing through its ow 
 
 TZ^e^T "^'"'^ "^ '' ''''" ^-^^^'"^ "f --d^^ — tr^ 
 av lable for a ann.ng co,n,nunity, extending „,anv miles back 
 
 Nor IT V"' """ ^^-■^>''->- '- ^"eliead of the lake or 
 North len„ska„„„g. Nun.erous Caribou are found in this 
 region, as well as n,oose and deer, and the prai,-ie chicke, 
 not uncoinnion from Hailey1)urv up. 
 
 A canoe route followed o'ften. commences here Bv it 
 one can reach Abitibbi Lake, a two weeks trip-an i uteres ing 
 m.rney we purpose taking at a future date. Or a still long ^ 
 one, by following the Ottawa to its source, and then bv a rf' 
 short portage of a few yards, launch the canoe into th \ Ite 
 o he Gat,neau R,ver, and so down to its n.outh opposite 
 O tawa \ere a mo,-e extended outing than that desireS an- 
 
 o"?t"l'"'''p-'""''^^"^^"^^-^^ 
 
 down 'to tl e St"r "'''"J "^^ ^"^ ""^^ ^^^'"^ >"- — e 
 
 down to the fet. Law,e„ce at Three Rivers 
 
 our ;;TJr7 "T'", Ten,iskan,i„g and its stolid Indians. o„ 
 our ,e urn, and when again in deep water. Otter River is 
 pointed out on the Onebec shore, draining the country gererlllv 
 fron, the south-east of its ,nouth. We hf ve now a .strf^'t nlj: 
 
 42 
 
— ^ of [cij^lit miles, wliicli we 
 
 quickly do, and Haileyhury 
 is again reaclud, where we 
 disembark, contented in hav- 
 ing enjoyed a splendid " out- 
 ing" over a magnificent lake, 
 on a well appointed and 
 comfortable Ijoal, manned 
 by courteous officers. 
 
 The 
 Canoe Trip. 
 
 Our camping para])herna- 
 lia having been landed on 
 our first touching at Hailey- 
 bury, we found that engag- 
 ing guides, selecting canoes, 
 procuring such articles from 
 the store as may have been 
 overlook';d, or that mav now 
 be found necessary, as well 
 as making up our "dunn- 
 age " into packs convenient 
 for carriage, has pretty well 
 used up the day, so we de- 
 cide to make an early start 
 in the morning. Had we 
 left the steamer when first 
 stopping at Haileybury, in- 
 stead of going to North Tem- 
 isl aming, the end of our 
 first day on shore would 
 have found us camped on 
 the shore of Sharp I.ake. 
 We put up at a comforable 
 hotel, " The Matabanik," 
 near the lake shore, kept by 
 Messrs. Blackwell and West- 
 rom, two Englishrt:eu of re- 
 cent arrival. Mr.C.C. Farr, 
 the pioneer of this new 
 settlement, owns the saw- 
 mill, the store belongs to 
 Mr. Cobbold, a very agree- 
 able man, college bred, and 
 
does all the tra.,s,,urting of The Il.ulson's Bay Con.ninv ^ 
 supphes ron. Ilaileyln.ry to Te,„aganu„,. Uke He can he 
 
 The Start 
 
 A waggon being supjiHed I)y Mr I ■iwlor tn tai.^ 
 
 Sharp LaHe 
 
 Where our " iiiiDediniprifT " Jc «,.i r 
 cauoes, of course. Ju "I^a I v f '"r r " "".7^^°"- ^''- 
 portages A " ,ran.) 7 i " ^ ^"'''^" ^"'"''^^ o^'^'" ^'^e 
 
 'lays to co„,e, becon.; a^ t c id" ''^'2'' '^ ^''- '""'''^ 
 cares, - a„,l everv toil a p easu^e rf Tn"" ''''''''"'' "° 
 spirits, we quickly- paddle over te u \ '' '" '-''"'"''^"'^ 
 
 iL "^val ■ ^ *'<->' 'l^ly '■^■•"onstrated with us sa^- 
 
 i„;;t:«;:;--,— — --leer,uob^ 
 
 man, :^w frfe ^ the ^ ^r""'"" ^"^ "^^^ ^"""^^' '-^'^'-y 
 toils and worHes is ' ti r """'' ?' '''' ''''' ^^'^'^ ''^ "-" ' 
 skies-whr,a"'l a ';,?"' f,"^ '""'"^ -"oke-di„nned 
 
 charm u,,k Z S; ::","7'""^''"''« "= -« '- " 
 oer,)re, every creeping thing is of interest. 
 
 44 
 
And so, ^aily paddliii),' along, with buoyant song and jest, we 
 sight our fust portage, two miles from the start. vSlowing up a 
 little distance from the landing jilace we drojiped a couple of 
 trolls into the water, and are soon rewarded with a fish for each 
 troll— one a pike ; the other a dore, and then another dore ; we 
 are now sure of a first course of fish for dinner — not lunch, our 
 appetites being too voracious for that. Landing, dinner was 
 the most important (luestiou ; all of the party but the guides 
 wanted it there, and some insisted, but the advice of the guides 
 was to have it on the other end of the portage, a quarter mile 
 distant. That advice was acted on, a bag being opened and 
 
 AN EVEN'I.N'G S IISIII.NG 
 
 1 
 
 " hard tack " served out to the i)arty. And so munching the 
 " hard bread " as best we could, with our guns and rods, and a 
 proportion of the camp equijiment on each of our backs, we 
 cross the portage, and then sit about on the shore of Lake 
 Ajickigaming, while one of our guides prepared our first meal. 
 The novelty of our first meal in the woods spurred our appetites 
 and incited our anticipation as a many-course dinner never did. 
 With what enjoyment did we eat it when ready I No sauces or 
 relishes were needed to aid us in the speedy satiation of our 
 appetites. Where else did we get such juicy pike and dore as 
 
 45 
 
those cati^lit ill Sliarp r,akc ? TI 
 
 :;:;;M'J:'J::l:;':i,'"-. 'F-- - -- ^^z;z ';:: 
 
 ''■<■ Ail iCMily a^aiii, we startled a fres 
 
 'y.^r.^iTTjj^/^ 
 
 isiAN-n i.AKi;-,n:i,,iiTii oi i \.v,, 
 
 for ue are anxious to .s-vl some of 
 ood tune we arrive at 
 
 portage heiii- a short one 
 the promised bass. In 
 
 Montreal f^iver 
 
 on ...e „„,„,,„ RK r ;." "r"' '"" '■ ' ' ■"""«« 
 
 46 
 
 
TKlH T IISIIINC, 
 
 47 
 
S«)()ii wf li;ive our 1 
 
 i'H's ill the w.itcr. 
 
 '.e tl e c-ho.cest. «ill, the „,i„„ow always leadin. ,- 
 cray-lish a kou.I second. ' ^""""K- '"•'' "'^' 
 
 In Camp. 
 
 fish "is- ..r,!'""^ '"""V' "^ "" '■^'""•"•'' -•' -"- "•"• 
 
 "sn, i)n.uip.illy bass, arc «alh.re.l toLH-tht-r we fin,! il,.. ,.. 
 ^ave ,„ore than enough for h-eakfast and '..^n. " 1^' ,- ^ 
 
 coniLiit, we stretch ourselves out on balsam heds-not t,. .1 
 nor rest h„t sin.ply to realise a so„,ethi„"w: 1 ^^^T 
 asensat,o„ of happiness, of content.nent Wit th H "w 
 
 inrougli Its s> Kan course; the impressions of the nnnv' nic 
 
 welSiri:p.:r:r::;:r;;:,r 
 
 " And so in ni.Mintain solitmlfs-o'ertnk.n 
 As by some spell clivine- 
 Their can-. .lro,,,,ed from then, like- tlu- nee.llos .Ir.ken 
 iTom out the gusty pine. "ee.iks shaken 
 
 lllli CaatP. 
 
 48 
 
fly, atiotlur 
 liiT a ^rrnss- 
 liiiK with a 
 >ii to decidi' 
 'III tliat ex- 
 i\c)l\(.(l lie- 
 hass* tiKnilh 
 , seeiiifd to 
 
 Jjail would 
 g, ai:d thf 
 
 I wln'ii our 
 
 id that wc 
 
 iifxt day, 
 
 stoiiiaelis' ) 
 
 I>t to Sl(.'l'|), 
 
 pcric'iice — 
 e clear sky 
 calmly oil 
 tiiaiiy pic- 
 ;e, f(jliaj,'e, 
 under that 
 
 es sliakcii 
 
 In qiuet rnjoy„,ent of the pipe and conversation. hef(,re a 
 lar^e fire, vu- pass the evfninjr. and tlwM turn in to reali/e what 
 sleep IS on lUv best Led anioiiK r.n,\\ ^iftn-a hod of balsa,,, 
 »...UK'hs hud shinKle fashion, with the lips always up. the fi,st 
 course HMn« lai.l against a s.uall lo« orsapliuK.' It is claimed 
 tor such a bed pcTio.lically renewed, that a „,a„ will not catch 
 cold while sleeping „„ it. an.l that it will cu,e the col.l of anv 
 oneso trn„bled-is a veritable pan .cea lor Inujr trouble-and 
 the writer believes it f,o„, experie,icc. 
 
 All up in jrood ti„u. i„ ii„. „u,n,i,i^r thoi-ouKhlv refreshed • 
 an.l breakfast over, it is decided we will take a leisu.vly course 
 over the I.ady Ivvely,,, Diamou.l, an.l Te,naKaniin« Ukes vis- 
 il.nKall po.utsof interest, an.l camping, sh„.,tiuK, an.l nshin^ 
 where we list. ^ 
 
 VIi;\V ON KIl'|'i;\\ A RIVICR. 
 
 and tLTT^T""""'' "' ''"" ''''' "'" ^^"^^ "'' - "•-■'' time 
 and space. I will content myself with writing of poiuts of 
 
 sample of all following ones, with varied details and changing 
 scenes, for each day's travel. cnanging 
 
 lake"" toTi T ""-' '" '''"" ^'■°'" '''' ^•^^'- ^^v on Sharp 
 Uke. o Matachewan, a Hudson-s Bay Con.panv post 0,1 Bay 
 I.ake. by way of I,oon Lake and two portages. .),''and 2 mHes 
 each respectively. By the shorter cut is .'■< ,„iL, the o le 
 way ,s ,. m.les-and the longer way to be always preferred 
 The waggon road from Haileybury to Sharp I.ake is the one 
 
 ■19 
 
long portage on tlie whole trip. All the others, hut one 'are 
 very short, a.ul but a few yards at the :„ost. The one exception 
 IS not 400 yards in length. ^ 
 
 Pork Rapuls, about 7 nules, calling at Matachewan ^vLM: pass- 
 
 point, we caught a gh„,pse of two moose at the water's edge 
 They cu.ckly disappeared when they saw us-such grand 
 
 rrre^ii ^f' 'T''' '^'^ "^^^^^ ''^'^ '"•■^ -^^ ^hotr f 
 
 .\lnntreal River, after passing over the 
 
 /VlataWablKa Falls, 
 
 The surroundings constitute a scene of ^real beauty with 
 many contrasts. The towering rocks stana.ng out in bold out- 
 ne, the base and sunnnits shrouded in foliage of various tints; 
 the falling water, soon again in calm flow, eddying amonJ 
 rocks and wooded bays ; once seen the picture is nevef effaced 
 And the bass here — ! 
 
 >rATAWAHrKA I-AF.LS. 
 
 We here leave the Montreal River with retjret, because of 
 Its niteresting and varied 'scapes of natural beauty, but in the 
 assurance of equally as fine scenery by the route we are to go 
 Now camping for the night we have some splendid sport in" 
 fishing ere we turn in. F l m 
 
 Next afternoon, after passing through scenes most en- 
 chanting, we enter 
 
 50 
 
but one, are 
 iiie exception 
 
 Bay Lake to 
 n when pass- 
 s rounded a 
 water's ed^e. 
 -such grand 
 ith those of 
 
 beauty, with 
 in bold out- 
 arious tints; 
 'iiig among 
 ver effaced. 
 
 Lady E.velyn LaKe. 
 
 oil, tl,,>„ lake af enlranciiiK Alarms : of „.„,„|e,l i,|a,„l 
 
 " Who can paint 
 tike nnture' Can ininui nation boast 
 Amid Its K.iy creation, hues like hers ' 
 or can it match them with thai matchless skill 
 And lose them in each other, as .■.pixMrs 
 In every hud that blows'" 
 
 On this cbarniing lake a prolo.tged .slay is tnade, enjoying 
 
 our da.ly tnps to the full. Fishing or hunting bv tur, s ht 
 
 arder ts always well stocked with fish, flesh 'and fow Ve 
 
 have foun.l no lack of fish and gante on our trip so far and 
 
 ^>^. 
 
 lecause of 
 
 3ut in the 
 
 are to go. 
 
 sport in 
 
 most en- 
 
 ox LADY EVIJLYN LAKE. 
 
 have enjoyed the best of health, a redundatice of good spirits 
 (animal) being the most prominent characteristic of us all 
 
 nel «r.r'"^t^''°'" '"'^'' ''''^^'^ '-'''' ""-^"^'^ ^''^ "^'■'•°w chan- 
 nel and portage, we come into equally charming 
 
 Diamond UaKe 
 
 On which lake we camp to take in points of interest. I'ish- 
 
 ing ot the best, and game plentiful, as usual, we have here 
 
 Breaking camp.', paddle about a mile, and cro.ssing a short 
 
 portage, we enter a lake who.se waters connect with the greater 
 
 waters of cgicaier 
 
 SI 
 
Temagaming Lake 
 
 B vo narrow cl.annels ; ,.r, „,ore correctly speaking, the 
 aU Ks hvuled fro,„ tl.e n.ain lake by two islands with nt row 
 annels between^ Paddling over the lake for six n.iles throTgh 
 eiidkss changes of scene, wc reach ^ 
 
 Devil's /Mountain 
 
 U here we ca.np. 1 enu.gan.ing Lake men. tha.i fullv bears 
 out all that has been said of il,-.-it =s one n.atchless panorama 
 of scemc beau, V. I„ sailing over its .leep, transparent waters 
 ever-changmg landscapes are dcpicted-at one tin.e a broa.i 
 
 =«rv-^. 
 
 
 l)K\n.'s SIOIXIAIX. 
 
 measnre of water with a stnall wooded island, sentinel-like 
 all alone n. a lake which uun.bers over 1,300 islands on it^ 
 osotn; or agani, many of the islands form apparent lakes with 
 1 ores ot deepened hue, to which there is .Semingly no out 
 e . Narrow, winding channels are th..e, broad waters, moun- 
 tains and lesser heighths. All scenes are graced by the foliage 
 of d fTerent kinds of trees and shrubs, the shaded greens of 
 
 to one s hking ; game ail we want. The salmon trout are pa.? 
 ticularly large and tasty. (The writer has dined of a fifty 
 pound trout caught in this lake, and larger have been oaught ) 
 irom our camp we climbed to the top of Devil's Mountain 
 i.ooo or more feet high, from which a fine view was had of ou^ 
 surroundings. 
 
 52 
 
peakiiio;, the 
 with narrow 
 liles through 
 
 II fully bears 
 ss panorama 
 rent waters, 
 me a broad 
 
 itinel-Iike, 
 nds on its 
 lakes with 
 ly no out- 
 ers, nioun- 
 he foliage 
 greens of 
 lid fishing 
 t are par- 
 of a fifty 
 caught. ) 
 fountain, 
 lad of our 
 
 / 
 
 Teniagaming — 
 
 " Hene.iUi him rolld, 
 111 all her length far widening lay, 
 With pioiiiDiitory, creek and hay, ' 
 And islands that tinpiiiijled hright, 
 Floating amid the livelier light, 
 And mountains, that like giants stand, 
 To sentinel enchanted land." 
 
 We look down upon the Devil's Island, and farther away 
 we see Granny's Islands, or as they are called bv the Indians 
 Ko-ko-mis" Islands. They belong to Mrs. Ko-ko-mis, o^ 
 Mrs. Devil. According to Indian legend the Devil had a wife 
 and she is yet here-on one of those two islands we see Viid 
 the mountain we are on is the Devil's tho' he is not at present 
 apparent. Can it be that where we are is the lost Garden of 
 Eden, now found, but with a changed climate? Bible historv 
 
 TE.MAGA.MIN., l.AKI -,-|,o,M 1., VU/s IM ,^^„-SM , U IN. . HMNrM. .SI.ANUS. 
 
 tells us Satan made his first appearance in the Garden ; it may 
 have been his abiding place, with Mrs. Ko-ko-mis not far off 
 rhough we cannot now go about in fig-leaves in tins climate 
 yet It IS known that regions north of us were once covered with 
 tropical vegetation-that the elephant, the hippopotamus, and 
 the earlier mastodon once roamed lands now ice-bound. To 
 stretch a theory, possibly we are in the lost Garden of lulen • 
 Lady ICvelyn, Diamond, and Temagaminir Lakes are certain] v 
 enchanting enough to satisfy all poetical minds, unlimited 
 game and fish there are to satiate tiie grosser wants, and noth- 
 ing more IS needed than a tropical sun to lessen the want of 
 clothing, and grow bread-fruit. 
 
 53 
 
\\ e i,ad,lle over to see Mrs. Ko-ko-nns on her Island. The 
 
 pass the '•Haunted Ishind." fe " ^^ 
 
 •' Over all there Iiuiik a shr.dow and a fear 
 A sense of mystery tlie spirit daunted. ' 
 And said, as plain as whisper in the ear, 
 1 lie place is haunte<l." 
 
 it ruf ^'r""^' '''' '^'^ ^'-^'^ ^^^ "'^'"^^1. ^»d they believe 
 It. The wife insisted she was the better of the two and hir 
 
 shore at Devil's Mountain, when site jumped into the water 
 
 
 
 
 '■"■, t'^v .y,! 
 
 
 
 ' / 
 
 ";a '•■■.' '^■-'f^ 
 
 IMKS. Kl)-K(IMIS, 
 
 "rt to'fonl" "b '''""' • '""^ ^^ '"^' ^"^^"-' «-. he did not 
 care to follow, being prejudiced against water. But he revene 
 
 ed hunse If by turning her into a statue, as she sat gr ev ng o„ 
 
 the Island ; she sits there still-an interesting figit-eTn fone 
 
 at tl^e'n"? "'i"^ ''°""^^'^" '•••^ '^^'-^ -"^h- andstop f"a time 
 at thePIudson-s Bay Company's Post on Bear Islaiid-Tema 
 gaming I ost-kept by Mr. Turner. On a registe kept thTe" 
 we find the names of many tourists who have visiSf Tern 
 gamm^ Irom numerous places in the States and Canada All 
 refer eulogistically to the I,ake's scenery. We are Ce as nf 
 
 as may be to the centre of the Lake its IZ^ T 
 
 iiic j^aKe, Us many long arms 
 
 54 
 
Island. The 
 id make pres- 
 ?ii obliged to 
 
 they believe 
 two, and her 
 lowed her to 
 ito the water 
 
 he did not 
 le reveng- 
 ieving, on 
 ; in stone, 
 for a time 
 d— Tema- 
 ept there 
 ed Tema- 
 ada. All 
 re as near 
 )ng arms 
 
 stretching their narrow waters far into the countrv in an irreg- 
 ular manner. A study of the map will show its' peculiarities 
 more plainly than. can be explained in writing. 
 
 Once more making a start our course is now up the north- 
 east arm, a distance of 12 miles from :\Iatagama Point, or 15 
 miles from the Post. 1-our short portages in a distance of 7 
 miles brings us into 
 
 Rabbit LaKe 
 
 Another irregular V shaped stretch of water, with the apex 
 to the south, one side of the y being 6 miles long, and the 
 other about 9 miles. It is a lake of beautiful surroundings 
 limpid water, and, like all the other countrv we have passed 
 through, there is no lack of game-moose, deer, bear and part- 
 ridge, and not forgetting tlie rabbit, or hare. The l.ake gets 
 Its name from a very life-like and lar-e stone figure of a coucli- 
 ant rabbit situated on the shore at the water's edge whicli 
 comes into view suddenly on rounding a point. Bass, pickerel 
 and pike abound in the lake-bass fishing is particularly good 
 We camped for a day on Outlet Bay, our last day in camp with 
 Mother Nature, l.oath are v.e to leave the scenes of the 
 pleasant experiences of the past two weeks ; we do not yearn 
 tor the evidence of civilization -the screech of ihe steamer's 
 whistle-nay, the "hoot " of the owl is more to our liking just 
 now. All are in the best of health, clear headed, full-lunged 
 and tanned to perfection ; our appetites are voracious, and pall 
 at nothing, and our stomachs are able to digest anything from 
 porridge to boiled moccasin ! 
 
 Ho ! ye dyspeptics ! take Nature for your doctor ; a course 
 of her simple treatment will work wonders in your internal 
 economy Away from office cares and routine ; the beauteous 
 and wondrous works of nature your study ; with rod and gun 
 as your companion, the extent und variety of your larder 
 governed by your " bag " ; your drink, the pure waters of the 
 springs and the invigorating tea ; and sleeping at night on 
 balsam boughs unshielded from the winds of heaveu-such a 
 life in due time will make a " hard-tack " and a drink of tea 
 a relished meal, and an ordinary meal a feast ! 
 D KK-!^.i"^ ^^'^ camping ground, a short sail brings us to 
 Rabbit Chute, the first portage on the trip down the Metabet- 
 cheouan River. Soon c.er that and the next one, we enter the 
 first of four small lakes, noted for the number and size of the 
 bass therein-termed First, Second, Third, and lourth Basr. 
 Ukes, in order from Temiskaming I.ake. We enter the fourth 
 Bass Uke, nearly a mile long in our direction ; a short portage 
 
 55 
 
aiiu tlien we are in 'iMnV,! i>.,,... i i 
 
 a narrow channe v^-eis'/'ir ' '''''' '"'^' = ''"°"«'' 
 half mil. I ^''''""'' ^^*^' Lake, a little over a 
 
 "Tin. NOTCH "-LOOKING UP. 
 
 to experience and remember for a life-time \\v h.^ a- 
 
 aay sport. We obtained a sufficiency of the fish and ^uoh 
 fellows as would be a nride to =:1,o„ , ^^ 
 
 • .. .1 ^ » 'jc ct pride to siiow anywhere Aftpr " ,,-■,« + 
 
 56 
 
IK ; lliroujrh 
 little over a 
 are in First 
 lie four Bass 
 iting in one 
 ly clear, the 
 J something 
 
 i dinner 
 sirous of 
 ' our last 
 nd such 
 r "gutt- 
 f a mile, 
 linst the 
 
 sky, the " Great Beaver" of the Indian, Montreal River Motin- 
 tain. Paddling down the Metabetcheouan, its waters minyle 
 soon with those of the Montreal River ; on the joint waters we 
 sail and soon reach the nohl, Temiskaming, then Montreal 
 Kiver landing, i„ good time to make camp and preoc-re to take 
 the ":Metc"or" in the morning. 
 
 One of tlie guides takes our selected bass to a near-by 
 farmer, who puis tliem in a cool place til) morning. The 
 smaller ones we keep to eat at evening meal and breakfast. 
 We now go m-er aK our " possessions." and make a gift to the 
 guides of provisions left, and such clothing, tooacco, etc. we 
 do not need. After all this is done, our pipes lit. and stretched 
 
 CAMP ON WAV OI-T FKOM TEMACi.VMING. 
 
 out or Sitting in front of a warm camp fire (which we have in- 
 variably found enjoyable during the cool evenings of our 
 nomadic life) each one recounts the more prominent episodes 
 of his outing. The "Guvner'--as we dubbed the eldest of 
 our party-tells how he watched a bull and two cow moose 
 for nearly an hour feeding on the aquatic grasses and roots at 
 the outlet o^ a small lake. "Had I come upon them sud- 
 denly, he said. "I should have fired at Hh Lordship, but 
 sitting near the water taking in and studying the beauty points 
 of tlie scene before me, the moose slowly and cautiously 
 emerged from the bush opposite, where thev stood observant 
 
 57 
 
Satisfied that any one of thoni was in my power when I chose 
 
 but seemingly to where I was ensconced not fifty yard awlv ' 
 
 cose enough to observe the working of his n.oi^e nose as hi 
 
 ffed U.e a>r suspiciously. My Hfie was worth littrtrl 
 
 .S 'b:ot' ga^'e'itrer"^ T'''^' ^"' "°^ '^ P^^^'™^- 
 tha^ If i gave either. Slowly came to me the impression 
 
 efl ctlnr.' ''"'" '° -^'^'"^ ''''"' ^' ^"- tl- more^so, as I 
 reflected that our camp was then well supplied But low T 
 
 wished n,y gun was a camera ! To be able'to show tl vonder 
 
 " g fneuds the picture of the noble brutes so close, so much in 
 
 my power, and yet be able to say • I did not fire at henr AnS 
 
 Le t lut of ''fT~\ '•' '"^ ^''°°^- ' ^°^ -«- -a' enty 
 hid r °Vr "? "•' unsuspicious animals, than I wodd 
 had I brought one of them low. On my next trip there wil be 
 more shots in the magazine of the camera whiL I wi own 
 hau m that of the rifle.'. This was the most notabL „Mn 
 the Guvner's 'experience during the trip, in his opinion. 
 
 After many tales had been told of doings with "fish flesh 
 and fow , . all agreed with the " Guvncr '^hat after the firs^ 
 couple of days, .shots taken with a camera of the vared scenes 
 of forest and of lake ; of antlered beauty and the thmd 
 hare ; of the partridge in the woodland, and the duck upon le 
 water ; of a waterfall, the centre of a " beauty spot "rd an 
 osprey cuchng o'er the eddy at its foot-yes. it wa deckled 
 that more enjoyment could be realized after th; " oTt ng ' ' tt 
 over by the " snap shots " instead of the killing. Tl ImL firs 
 few days in a region where game is so plentfful, wHl isualTv 
 sufi^ce to satiate a reasonable man's innate propenstyo''km'' 
 for killing V sake, and after that the c^nefa wilUf^en sup- 
 ply the p^ace of the rifle, was the conclusion came to Jn ou r 
 final evening spent together at the close of our "outine'^in 
 fron of our last camp-fire. We then turned in to en o! o^r 
 usual refreshing sleep on that best of beds-balsam brush 
 
 In the niorning, as the " Meteor " passes early, we decide 
 to have our breakfast on board, for it will be a loi g wai^f om 
 
 ::iS;:Lr :::;i^ '^r. Me;:-:,^- ^"" ''-- 
 
 and hei. -^.ed. we are .uir/ontlS. ''^::Z:^ 
 fixed on Temiskaming-s high mountain, we bid adi;u to the 
 magnificent scenic country which lies behind it. and of which 
 
 58 
 
 it 
 
 ui; 
 
 we 
 
 ev 
 
 se( 
 
 to 
 
 and g 
 
 (It IT 
 
 cano( 
 secoti 
 until 
 
vhen r chose 
 ed the more 
 that danger 
 iced to feed, 
 o their ears, 
 brest would 
 all quarters, 
 ard.s away — 
 L> nose as he 
 little to me 
 ! i-ime, have 
 e particular 
 impression 
 are so, as I 
 But how I 
 to wonder- 
 so much in 
 lem !' And 
 real enjoy- 
 in I would, 
 ere will be 
 [ will own 
 le event in 
 ainion. 
 fish, flesh, 
 r the first 
 ied scenes 
 the timid 
 upon the 
 ," and an 
 s decided 
 ing" was 
 it the first 
 11 usually 
 to "kill" 
 iften sup- 
 o on our 
 ting" in 
 njoy our 
 4sh. 
 
 e decide 
 -ait from 
 than our 
 in view, 
 our eyes 
 J to the 
 )f which 
 
 it is our last manifestation; a regretful "good bye" to the 
 unique and health-giving pleasures enjoved for the past two 
 weeks, conscious as we are-by them-of our betteruRMit in 
 every respect. State rooms being then obtained, a little wliile 
 sees us again in the garb of city men, after which we sit down 
 to and enjoy a hearty breakfast. 
 
 "CHUTE" ON GORDON CREEK. 
 
 Afterwards we arrange with the Captain to take our canoes 
 and guides back to Haileybury, where they arrive the same day 
 (It may be here remarked that it would be cheaper to buy the 
 canoes outright, instead of hiring them, if contemplating a 
 second trip. The I^umsden Line will store them free of charge 
 until such time as they are needed again.) Arriving at Tern- 
 
 59 
 
Z\ I Tr '" "^^■"'■^" ^^■''•' '"'^'^ '■"""--• i" our wake 
 Wehavetnne before- dinner to take a stroll i„ (|,e nei.T.bor" 
 hood, v,su.n,. tlu. depot, n.ills and electric power hoi; on 
 Gordon Creek. helon,Mn., to Mr. A. Lunisden, one of Ot tvVs 
 
 •ug- bns ness nUerests in this section, and is connected with 
 
 many of the enterprises in the Ottawa Vallev and elsewhere 
 
 s also owner of the I.unsden I.ine of steamers on I ke Te"' 
 
 kannnK as well as the steamers on Kippewa Uke. We C 
 
 n.eLhute" on the (Gordon Creek-well worth seein.r L 
 
 ZLrVu" 'T '•^"^; • v ^'" ''''-'' ^ ^°-» "-■■--'1 -" 
 
 of chy life "" " "' "'" '°"^'-^' "•'^ ^'^ ^°° ^--'i- •— s 
 
 L/¥KE KIPPEW/V. 
 
 A short description of Uke Kippewa may be of interest to 
 nany who have heard of the reputation whiclf the surm, d „^ 
 forests bear as the favored game preserves of the hunte b u 
 who know not „„,. of the great charn.s which its waters ha e 
 for the lover of canoemg trips. In that respect it is as vet un 
 known. Being .so conveniently reached Troxn t "e B 11 " e 
 
 ar:r' i;h '7'-"'"^ '""'"^^ °^ canoeing-may be . d r! 
 TeruLr ""."^^'^!«^^'->- '«- "f tin.e, as an adjunct to the 
 
 leinisk-reniagannng Trip. 
 
 Boarding the train at Ten.iskan.ing Station, an hour's run 
 
 the"? '': ^^?^'Pr"^ '"'" ''''' ^-"^ ^«"^-^ the va 1 y o 
 he Gordon Creek throughout its length, constantly bringing 
 nto view new scenes of woodland, lake, and of rapid wafers 
 orinLsleng h of nine miles, the Gordon Creek hasafaHof 
 ^o fee from its source in Kippewa I.ake to its emptying Lo 
 the Ottawa, near Temiskaming Station. On our way we pa s 
 Lumsden-s Mills Station, where is a sawmill, pTaning S 
 electric power house, the depot buildings, (inc uding a W 
 store) as well as the houses of employtes belonging to Mr 
 Lumsden. Abo.it five miles np, the train crosses^n! end of 
 T -ake over a bridge built on piles, some of the piles being 
 
 Creek for black bass, pike, dore, etc.. but more particularlv at 
 the foot of falls and rapids. Ducks are plentiful i^i their sLn 
 on the stretches of water between the rapids. Presentl J gl " 
 
 60 
 
 ag£ 
 cer 
 coi 
 or i 
 tot 
 ma 
 be i 
 ove 
 littl 
 Anc 
 a1)u 
 
e hotel, and 
 in our wake, 
 le iifi-hbor- 
 ir house on 
 
 of Ottawa's 
 in who has 
 nected with 
 1 elsewliere. 
 
 I,ake Teni- 
 '■ ^^ e view 
 eeinij. Re- 
 T, and soon 
 liliar scenes 
 
 interest to 
 irrounding 
 lunter, but 
 aters have 
 as yet un- 
 Rellevue 
 be under- 
 nct to the 
 
 lour's run 
 valley of 
 bringing 
 d waters, 
 s a fall of 
 ying into 
 V we pass 
 ling-mill, 
 f a large 
 ? to ]\Ir. 
 e end of 
 es being 
 I Gordon 
 ularly at 
 r season 
 tly glid- 
 
 weV^o^T^" ?""• "' ''' •-* ''"''^'- ^•'•-•■f- storehouse, a 
 Tm r i f ^^ '-'""«'"^' to Mr. (.. Utour,a s.ean.ho;t. 
 and a couple of 'Mlhgators - or stean. wiuch tugs, while befor^ 
 us Ijes K.ppewa I.ake. or as much of it as we cai. see, fo the 
 station where we are. is located at the botto.n of a bay w t h 
 ugh shores We board the ■' Robt. Hurdn.an,- a very co 
 fortable and swift steau.er, for a run over the la^e. and o'u i - 
 press.onsof thtsbeaul.ful body of water on the onclusion of 
 
 Z Z:Ti %T "'""""'"^^'^ ^-^^•^f'-^ ^-^« - ""''ke 
 kl . lak f"-"^" '" ''' --"'K-ation; unlike Temi.s- 
 mt ik T ' " '' cou.paratively narrow and long lake • 
 
 de n and'ir""" k"' ''"'''' "'""" '' ^^^^'""'^- -'--hat in it 
 deep and narrow bays au.l inlets, but is dissimilar in that Tern- 
 
 STBA.MKR "rout. UURUMAN." 
 
 Si"noint"'rr''T-"'' ^"^"'^ "'^^ ^" ''''' '° radiate from a 
 centre point while kippewa's waters are threaded through the 
 
 country as though aimlessly. Kippewa Uke is a lake oflakes 
 or a lake of many islands, from the rocky dot upon the wate ' 
 to those of nnles across and in length, these islands again i i 
 many cases, having pretty lakelets upon them. Again, it may 
 be sauI, Kippewa I.ake is a large section of country^comp isS 
 over 5 .^..^e miles in extent, cut up into islands, b^g a"! 
 httle by narrow and wide channels and expanses of water 
 And the water ,s deep generally, and very clear, containing a 
 abundance of all kinds of fish, including white iish and saL" 
 
 6i 
 
S'' '^n'' ""^' '^'"Ptyi"K into the I.ake. i„ tnanv cnse«. fuN 
 n»h excellent sperk led trout Hsl,inK^ as -lo many of the mall 
 lakes which dot the land. 
 
 In the .uatry .snrro„„dinK th. f.ake is an ahnn.lanee of 
 la ge and small ,. „.... this .listrirt being one of the best nmose 
 countnes known. It is als., very accessible, its deep inlets and 
 Hviterways f n-orin^^ it inunensely an.l affording new gronnds 
 easily reached Inr luiiiting })arties. 
 
 There are many beanty spots of interest on the shores of 
 the Lake-many seen, s to " take - the painter's eve, while the 
 ph.lo aniat.nr would fairly :evel i„ his or her opportnnit 
 
 llll: LANAI., 
 
 Buttney's Xarrows" is one of tlie places worth visiting "The 
 Lanal." winch commences about one mile to the north-west of 
 Mackenzie Island, on the main land, is a narrow deep channel 
 about a mile long, with precipitous and straight up-and-down 
 rock shores, leading into a narrow lake over two miles long 
 from which, by a short portage, Campbell's Bav is reached con- 
 necting with two of the large expanses of the Kippewa waters 
 The Canal," with its high steep banks, surrounded by the 
 varied foliage of evergreen and deciduous trees, is verv pictur- 
 esque in its uncommon beauty. 
 
 The Kippewa waters lave a shore line estimated at over 
 600 miles, and any one of those miles may be reached from 
 any point by a trip of 30 or 35 miles at most, which fact illus- 
 
 62 
 
trates the wonderful irregularity of its shores atul conseauent 
 ch«n,M„K scenery. The Indian nan.e Kippewa. n.eanl^'' h " 
 •ng place.- ,s a very apt designation for the I,ake. for in it. 
 
 lost. ,lHl they not wish to make thenuselves known 
 
 Dortimuir,? ''"''' '"'' ^•^»ti>^'"0"« waters offer unlinuted op- 
 portmnt.es fur canoen.^ parties wishing extended trips thomfh 
 
 trip Ks by Ostaho.„nK f.ake and I'raser River to head of J.ake 
 rennskam.nK. and down the I.ake .,y stean.er. ar .,:u\ ten 
 
 kanan Uke. thence by Ross Uke to I.ake I.xpan ,e, , nd dovn 
 
 KIIM'KWA GAMi;. 
 
 the Ottawa to Uke Te.niskaming, which would occupy about 
 
 erS: them c" ''"" "^ '°° '"^"^ '''''^"' ^"^^ ^° --"'- 
 trTn.Mu ; !!"^ P"""''"" """'"^ P^^^'^« then.selves with 
 
 tnps taking a few days to n.ake, or with others taking a few 
 weeks, or they could pass the whole summer in this inctn.par- 
 able country (for canoeing and hunting) and not necessanlv 
 visit the same place twice. uci.cs,sariiy 
 
 Lake Kippewa has been known to a few Americans and 
 Canadians as a moose hunting country for the past two or three 
 years, and such has been their success in their trips, that the 
 same parties invariably return. That will be the experience of 
 
 63 
 
other canoeing parties when once the Lake becomes known 
 to tho outside world. 
 
 Again at Kippewa Station, well pleased indeed, after an 
 enjoyable excursion. We presently leave on the train for 
 Tennska:mng Station, and soon are once more comfortably 
 ensconced at the ' ' Bellevue House. ' ' 
 
 MORE KIPPEWA GAME. 
 
 The Hotel at Kippewa Station is clean and comfortable 
 and good substantial meals are furnished. Guides can there be 
 procured or arranged for, though it is bette- and surer that 
 guides be engaged by correspondence in advance of arrival of 
 parties. 
 
 f .u^ TT'Y "■'" ^^^^ ^""P^"^ °' ^""^"'g P^'-t'es to any part 
 of the Lake desired. 
 
 a: 
 
 64 
 
aes known 
 
 1, after an 
 
 train for 
 
 )mfortably 
 
 A, "^ 
 
 m^^ 
 
 fortable, 
 there be 
 rer that 
 rrival of 
 
 my part 
 
 TO flrBITTIBI l^f\tX^ 
 
 :x 
 
 The starting point for the trip to Abittibbi Lake is North 
 Temiskaming, to reach v liich place the steamer " Meteor " is 
 boarded at Temiskannng Station. An enjoyable n.n of 76 
 nnles over scenic Lake Temiskaming brings us to the place 
 named, situated above the head of lake navigation, four miles 
 up Quinze nver. We had previously arranged for our guides 
 to meet us here with canoes, and being on hand tliev at once 
 went to work making ready for the start. 
 
 It is not necessary to detail the account of the journey up 
 the Qmnze River further than to say it is the most laborious 
 portion of the trip to Abittibbi, owing to having to contend 
 
 KAPII) AT IIRAI) Ol- yriN/K KIVEk. 
 
 With a strong current for the greater distance, and the number 
 of portages to cros, to avoid falls and rapids. But these seem- 
 ing drawbacks to the river trip, it can readilv be inferred, only 
 
 haL'i; n "^°""''"f '° '''' "outing "'we are bent upon 
 having^ The many rapids and falls, or " chutes," of the Ouinze 
 nver-fifteen, in as many miles of its rapid course-are just 
 what we desire to see. Where rapids and falls are so numerous 
 ma comparatively short distance, we reasoned, the scenery can 
 not be tame or devoid of interest. Disappointed we were not 
 n our judgment. Though we could have taken another canoe 
 route by way of White River to Opasatika Lake from North 
 Temiskannng, through a flat country for the most part, or go 
 
 65 
 
l>y wagon over a good road to Klock's Farm on yninze Lake, a 
 distance of ,3 miles, we are all delighted at the opportnnitv 
 afforded of viewing scenes of grandeur, of wildness, and of 
 beauty which we otherwise would have missed by taking either 
 Of tlie other two routes. Who would miss seeing ' ' The Devil's 
 Chute -where the tremendous power and majesty of uncon- 
 trolled water IS seen in its wildest phase? Or miss the beautiful 
 island Portage and Rapids, at the foot of which one is t-npted 
 to niake his camp and stay for the summer ! Then again, the 
 Kek-keks,"orHawk Portage and Rapids-a wild and weird 
 spot-cannot be forgotten, once seen. And " The Maples'" 
 Oh, no ! we would not miss the river trip. We also had the 
 advantage of the fishing, the finst experience of which on Quinze 
 river more than gratified our desires. 
 
 There are nine or eleven portages to make on the river 
 
 some of which portages avoid two rapids. They are all good 
 
 roacls on which wagons are used to draw supplies to A. I.ums- 
 
 den s '■ driving - cani,)s on the stream. " The Head Chute '• 
 
 IS the last (or first) rapid on the river, which is here divided 
 
 into five channels, forming four islands, the distance across the 
 
 live channels and islands being about one and a half miles. The 
 
 portage is about three acres long, which is soon crossed, canoes 
 
 again in the water, and paddling up the river about one mile 
 
 we are finally on Ouinze Lake. 
 
 Our course is now north for twelve miles, coasting along 
 the west shore of the lake. After paddling four miles we see 
 
 KIogK's Farni 
 
 Where is a number of buildings, this place being the lum- 
 bering depot of the old firm of R. H. Klock & Co., the business 
 now being carried on by the twoso^.s, James and Robert. Land- 
 ing at the Farm in search of intormation, we are cordially 
 
 orthllr' "'Im'^, '° P''''^^ °^ '^^ well-known hospitality 
 of the Messsrs. Mock. We are told that Quinze Lake is close 
 on 50 miles in length, including Expanse Lake-a part of 
 Quinze Lake. Its width varies from one to four miles, but on 
 Lake Expanse it is ten miles across, tmiike Temiskaming 
 Lake It IS not a deep lake, nor are its shores so high or com- 
 manding. The main body of the lake lies to the eas. f nd south 
 
 River rn '^'V\''l "°''""'''' °' ''' °""^^- '^^^= Ottaw^ 
 Rivers How-of which Quinze Lake is but an expan.ion-is 
 rom the east, its waters rising due north of the City of Ottawa 
 What incomparable facilities for canoeing trips do these and 
 contiguous waters offer ! A vast net-work of water channels 
 
 66 
 
aze Lake, a 
 opportunity 
 sss, and of 
 king either 
 Che Devil's 
 of uncon- 
 e beautiful 
 is tf;;npted 
 again, the 
 and weird 
 Maples ! " 
 
 had the 
 on Quinze 
 
 the river, 
 ; all good 
 A. Ivums- 
 
 1 Chute" 
 e divided 
 icross the 
 iles. The 
 d, canoes 
 one mile, 
 
 iifV along 
 we see 
 
 the lum- 
 business 
 . Land- 
 :ordially 
 spitality 
 : is close 
 part of 
 , but on 
 kaming 
 or coni- 
 i south, 
 Ottawa 
 sion— is 
 Ottawa, 
 ese and 
 tiannels 
 
 and lakes extending their courses and areas in all directions 
 throughout an ininiense and unknown territory- a part of the 
 "great beyon.l " of the Dominion, known to the Indian and to 
 surveying parties only. l„ these wilds game of every descrip- 
 tion roam unscared by man ; fish and water-fowl there are in 
 abundance to every stream and lake ; grand scenes of mountain 
 and of valley, of placid lake waters and tumultuous falls- all 
 interspersed in ever changing variety. Just imagine ! we can 
 from here paddle our canoes down the St. .Alaurice to Three 
 Rivers, only a couple of short portages intervening between 
 the Ottawa and Gatineau and vSt. .Maurice Rivers' head waters • 
 or we can glide away down the Gatineau River to Ottawa • or 
 again by lake and river to Kipptwa I.ake ! There is such a 
 
 .NEAR HAWK PORTACK— yriN/.l; KIVKR. 
 
 number of routes that the selection of one is almost a task 
 But our choice is made for this season, and we thus escape 
 bewilderment. 
 
 After an enjoyable couple of hours spent at the Farm we 
 recommence our journey, and paddling for about twelve miles 
 and noting that the lake is gradually narrowing, we near 
 
 Barriere Portage. 
 
 The water is now comparatively shallow, and we had fair 
 sport trolling as we approached the portage, our catch being 
 pike and dore. We are told by our guides there are whitefish 
 also, but they can only be caught by net. Moose are plentiful 
 with a few red deer, in the neighborhood. 
 
 67 
 
Barriere Portage is a slu.rt .,„., ,-,„,!, cvt-r it. we soon ar. „„ 
 the waters of 
 
 Barriere LoKe 
 
 A long, narrow lake, over which we paddle for about sixteen 
 miles the greater distance to the north-east, until I.onely River 
 mouth ,s seen. We have passea several Islands, all well wooded 
 and one island in particular was indeed a beautiful picture to 
 the eye. The shores of the lake are high and well covered with 
 forest growth. Trolling is fairly good; moose are plentiful 
 likewise cariboo, and a few red ,leer. Our journev takes us 
 only over a portion of the lake, but enough is seen to enable us 
 to aj.preciate its many beauties. Leaving the lake at 
 
 Lonely FJiver, 
 
 W. ascend ihis str .,n,. It is swift enough in the spring, 
 bu later on its current is sluggish. Another name by which k 
 IS known IS "Shadow River,- by reason of the deep shadows 
 and reflections on its waters. There are many moose hereabouts 
 and a few red deer. After paddling for close on nine miles 
 between high and well-wooded banks, and during which time 
 the solitude IS almo.t oppressive, we come into a small lake or 
 expansion of the river. It is perhaps a mile wide and four long 
 with an unpronouncable Indian name ; then through a narrow- 
 ing of the lake, and on 
 
 Opasatlka, or Long LaKe. 
 
 We f.„d ourselves, entering on its waters about six or seven 
 miles from its lower end. This is a very prettv and deep lake 
 with high, bold shores to the water's edge, ihsh are plentiful' 
 sturgeon, pike, pickerel and black bass being the varietv 
 caught; an especially good fishing spot being at Cedar Nar- 
 rows about half way up the lake. Twelve miles of paddling 
 and then we find the lake widens out to the east and west 
 fonning two very deep bays, a cross being the shape of the lake 
 above Ledar Narrows. From the bottom of the west arm or 
 bay IS the alternate canoe route to Temiskaming I.ake by 
 way of the Blanche or White River and convenient lakes ' We 
 reach the end of I.ake Opasatika some eighteen miles from our 
 entering point, then cross a short portage into Little Lake 
 which IS about a mile wide and long. From the portage I 
 splendid view of the Laurentian Mountains meets the gaze 
 Over the small lake, and then we emulate the Gallic bird and 
 crow, for we are on 
 
 6S 
 
The H-eight of Land, 
 
 So far wo have paddled up stream on waters which event- 
 ually reach the St. I.awrence River ; to our destination we shall 
 now ]}addle on streams which finally emi)ty into James' Bay. 
 Height of Land I'ortage is ahoutono mile across and is planked, 
 for we are in a very swamjiy section of country. The planking 
 of the portage is the work of the Hudson's Bay Company, done 
 to facilitate the transport of their supplies one way and of furs 
 the other way. .Across the portage and we reach another little 
 lake, or lakelet, about .i mile across. Its waters are full of fish, 
 with all kinds of game more than plentiful in the surrounding 
 woods. Now we wind our snake-like way through Snake Creek 
 and one of Nature's g..ins lies before us, as exemplified by 
 
 Island, or Labyrinth, Lake. 
 
 Tliis lake is one of the prettiest imaginable ; a lake full of 
 islands-hundreds of them-dotting the surface of the water 
 for a di.stance of probably lo or 12 miles. In the opinion of 
 
 L.AKIC OK ISLANDS. 
 
 many who have visited the lake it is by far more picturesque 
 than the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence. Another 
 adjunct to the beautiful scenery, forming a magnificent back- 
 ground to a splendid picture, is a grand view of the Laurentian 
 Mountains, which again loom up against the sky, one of the 
 high peaks, in particular, looking like a big hay-stack. It can 
 be seen to best advantage from Island Lake, and can also be 
 
 69 
 
ym-! 
 
 seen from I^ong I.nke.and from Ahittibi ;.akc in clear weather 
 Proceeding through many changes of scenery to the e„d of the 
 lake, we conit' to 
 
 Ito mM limr 
 
 4.N ISI.ANIJ I.AKK VIICW. 
 
 6 4 ^T- 
 
 he Three/' 
 
 Which are tliree short portages on the river now flowinLr 
 onwards to Hudson's Bay. Tliey are close together, a little over 
 a mile covering "The Three" and the stretches of water be- 
 tween. Six nnies onwards on onr river course and we reach 
 
 ^ i 
 
 The One/' 
 
 Which IS another short portage. Over the portage and 
 away again for about five miles more of river journey-the 
 longest stretch of narrow water (about fourteen miles) encoun- 
 tered on our trip. The river generally has high shores, well 
 wooded, but toxvards the north end is somewhat low and 
 swampy. Out of the river at last, and we are on 
 
 Upper LaKe 
 
 Which lake is about six miles lor,^ ind six miles wide at its 
 widest, is dotted with islands, big ^:'A little. The shores are 
 high and rocky, well wooded, with n,.: n odd pine or so to be 
 seen. Latterly we have observed that the pines are becoming 
 more scarce as we travel on ; now, a pine tree is almost an 
 object to note. Gamo, as usual, is in great abundance, cariboo 
 being especially plentiful, and fish likewise, this lake being a 
 
 70 
 
favoriL': place of the Indians for netting fish. At the lower end 
 of the lake we once more enter the river which is the outlet of 
 its waters, u:i<; paddling for about three miles we reach 
 
 Dancing Portage 
 
 A short portage, two chains long. Dancing Portage is a 
 pretty spot, and has a waterfall which enhances its charms, for 
 the ralis are eq'uallv pretty. This being the last portage on' the 
 
 DANCINd PORTAGE. 
 
 trip ere reaching Abittibbi Lake, the Indians, in order to out- 
 wardly manifest their pleasure at the finality of the portaging 
 indulge in a dance all round, hence the designation ox " Dancing 
 Portage." Shortly after leaving the portage the country be- 
 comes flat and loses its beauty and interest. Between four and 
 five miles from Dancing Portage we reach a narrow part of the 
 river, and paddling on through it we then see that we are at 
 last on the bosom of 
 
 /Vbittibl UaKe! 
 
 The culmination of our wishes and our labors— (the latter 
 in one direction). Now we realize the hope of seasons past 
 that we should some time see the lake we have heard and read 
 so much of, and we are accordingly elated. Four miles of pad- 
 dling brings us to the Hudson's Bay Post Abittibbi, where wp 
 meet the welcome of Mr. .Mackenzie (the chief factor), and his 
 good wife and daughters. (Mr. Mackenzie has since been ap- 
 pointed to the Lake Temiskaming District. ) 
 
A few days are spent on the lake and neighborhood, gather- 
 ing information and looking over places of interest. The lake 
 is about forty miles long to its outlet, a wide lake generally 
 but in the middle of its length narrowing to a channel for some 
 distance. It is a shallow lake, its waters averaging a depth of 
 only eight feet. It is also a very stormy lake, the waves being 
 dangerous to ride in a craft owing to the shallowness of the 
 water. 1-rom Abittibbi House, looking down the lake, on a 
 large island, near three miles distant, is seen one large, solitary 
 pine tree, the sole reminder of the time when the country was 
 covered with its growth, prior to the great forest burning which 
 took place over a hundred years ago, according to Indian nar- 
 ratives. The surrounding country is very flat and uninteresting, 
 but the woods teem with game, especially moose. Fish are 
 remarkable for tlieir scarcity in Abittibbi I^ake, its shallow, 
 muddy, tempestuous waters not being congenial, or favorable 
 to their increase. 
 
 The Indians in the neighborhood of Lake Abittibbi are of 
 a purer type than any we have met since leaving Lake Temisk- 
 aming Station. Generally speaking, they are good, able-bodied 
 men, and are just as stolid and impassive as are any of their 
 brethren. Nothing seems to surprise them, or to bring forth 
 an expression of any kind other than a sound akin to a grunt. 
 The writer was once with a party of the same Abittibbi 
 Indians, some twenty in number, none of whom had ever seen 
 a steamboat before, when they made their first trip on one— 
 the " Argo "— aome 26 miles over Lake Temiskaming. A look 
 of surprise or interest, or an ejacculation, was altogether want- 
 ing. Even when the doors of the furnaces were opened for 
 them to look in, a gutteral sound was all that testified they saw 
 the glowing fires. 
 
 Equally as full of interest was our homeward journey. 
 New scenes continually met our gaze— new vistas regularly 
 opened up to view— jncturesque spots we had not before noted 
 are seen, everything being observed from a new view point, as 
 we travelled south instead of north. Not a day passed that was 
 devoid of interesting episodes, and when we finally reached 
 North Temiskaming (where we boarded the steamer " Meteor ") 
 the regret of us all was sincere at the ending of our trip to 
 Abittibbi Lake. And here we part with our guides— good, 
 hard-working, obliging fellows— they now being at home. A 
 seventy-five mile run over beautiful Lake Temiskaming is the 
 fitting conclusion of a grand trip in the Virgin Wilds of 
 Canada. 
 
 72 
 
od, ^'athe'r- 
 
 Tlie lake 
 
 j(enerally, 
 
 ?1 for some 
 
 a depth of 
 
 aves being 
 
 less of the 
 
 lake, on a 
 
 ^e, solitary 
 
 )untry was 
 
 ling which 
 
 ndian iiar- 
 
 ateresting, 
 
 Fish are 
 
 s shallow, 
 
 favorable 
 
 ibbi are of 
 e Temisk- 
 ble-bodied 
 ly of their 
 ring forth 
 
 a grunt. 
 Abittibbi 
 ever seen 
 on one — 
 
 :• A look 
 :her want- 
 pened for 
 [ they saw 
 
 journey. 
 
 regularly 
 
 "ore noted 
 
 •point, as 
 
 1 that was 
 ' reached 
 Vleteor") 
 ir trip to 
 ;s— good, 
 lonie. A 
 ng is the 
 Wilds of 
 
 Open Seasons for Game and Fish* 
 
 a; 
 
 Synopsis of laws governing shooting and fishing in the 
 Provinces of Ontario and Quebec. 
 
 NoTK— The following condensations of the (ianie I^aws, 
 etc., liave been carefully revised and made as correct as pos- 
 sible up to the date of the issue of this pamphlet. Owing to 
 the fact that game laws are frequently changed, absolute 
 accuracy is not guaranteed. 
 
 PROVINCE OF ONTARIO. 
 
 Shooting— Moose, caribou, elk, and reindeer, protected 
 entirely until November, 1900. . . . Deer can only be hunt- 
 ed, taken, or killed, between November ist and November 15th, 
 /.<'., 15 days. . . . yuail and wild turkeys, September 15th 
 
 to December 15th Grouse pheasants, woodcock 
 
 golden plover, prairie fowl, partridge, snipe, rail, hare, 15th 
 September to 15th December following. . . . Swans and 
 geese, 15th September to ist May. . . . Ducks of all kinds 
 and other waterfowl, ist December to 15th September. No per- 
 son shall shoot between sunset and sunrise. Cotton tail rabbits 
 may be shot at all times. 
 
 No person can kill deer in Ontario, except he hold a license 
 from the Provincial Secretary. No person shall kill more than 
 TWO DEKR, and deer are not to be hunted or killed in the 
 
 water. 
 
 No person shall kill or take any moose, elk, reindeer, cari- 
 bou, deer, partridge, or quail, for the purpose of exporting the 
 same out of Ontario. 
 
 FIshlng-Open Season— Salmon, trout, and whitefish, be- 
 tween the 1st November and 1st December. . . . Speckled 
 trout, brook trout, river trout, from ui :.Uy to 15th September. 
 . . Bass and maskinonge from ist a jueto 15th \pril 
 Pickerel, 15th April to 15th May. No person shall kill more 
 than fifty speckled or brook trout in one day, or more than 
 aggregates in weight fifteen pounds, or any trout less than five 
 inches m length. Smaller ones to he returned to the water. 
 Not more than one dozen bass to be i.illed 
 
 less than ten inches long. 
 
 in one day, or any 
 
 73 
 
 ^f**% 
 
PROVINCE C . QUEBEC 
 
 Shootlng-.Moos. and ....<., ■.,, amber rst to January .sf 
 c-xceptu.KOUavva and Pontine Counties. . . Moos: ,nd 
 
 deer n. Ottawa and I'ontta,. Counties, October ist to Decen.'her 
 St. . . . Caribou, September ist to I'ebruary ist 
 Hear, August 2.th to Jnh .St, . . Woo.lcock. snipe, pi.; er' 
 uirlew, taller, sandpii-er, Sej.teniher ist to l-ebrn , ' ■ 
 B.rch partridge suan.p partridge. September .st to Z.^u^U-l 
 
 '^t'l. . . . ^\l'•te IMrtridge ,1'tarmigan), November, St to 
 •eb uary ,.st. . . . ui,,^,„„, ^^^.^ ^^ ^j,,, ^^^_^^ ^^ _^^^- 
 
 kind, exc.-pt sheldrake, loons and gulls, ,Septentber ist to April 
 'St. Bulih head ducks, commonly known as pied- 
 
 ducks or divers, September ist to Aj.ril ,511,. 
 
 No -ore t:,a,i two moose, three deer, and two caribou, may 
 be killed in one season by any one person 
 
 ,n„ ^"'^7 '""-^' '"* "^^'' ''""^i"K '-^l 'l^'^'r only between October 
 20th and November f.st. 
 
 The young of deer, mou.se, or caribou, if only ,.ne vear old 
 or less, .shall not be killed. ■ 
 
 Cow nioo.se shall not be killed. 
 
 Shooting prohibited between one hour after .sunset and one 
 hour before Mu.n.se of uoodeock, snipe, partridge, widgeon 
 eal or wild duek of any kind, and during such hours forbidden' 
 to keep exposed any lures or decoys. 
 
 Fishing -Hass, i6tlijnne to 14th .\pr' Maskin 
 
 onge 2ndJulyt0.Mth.May. . . . Pickerel, dor.' ,6th May 
 tu,4th.pnl. . . . Salmon. :mk1 February to . th .August. 
 Speckled t,-out, i.st .May to 3nth S. , .' .niber. . . , ..ev trout 
 lake trout, or lunge, 2iid December to i4lh October 
 Ouananiche, 2nd December to 14th September. . . '. White 
 fish, 2nd December to 9th Novembc. 
 
 LICENSES. 
 
 Non-re.sidents are recjuired to obtain lice 
 hunt, which may be obtained on applicatior 
 Passenger Agent, C.1>.R., IMontreal. through ;■, „^. 
 Company, or from the Game Wardens of both Provinces 
 
 Uceiise. should be kept in the personal po.sse.ssioii of the 
 angler, as they are subject to production on demand of Game 
 u arden. 
 
 to 'h and 
 
 tl 'eneral 
 
 ag^ of the 
 
 74 
 
 i I 
 
Jiimiiiry ist. 
 
 I\I')Osc and 
 
 to Iiect'iiiher 
 
 1st. . . . 
 uipe, v>''^Mer, 
 
 • i^U . . . 
 o Decenilier 
 eiiihcr 1st to 
 ucU of an\ 
 
 • 1st to April 
 VII iis pied- 
 
 ariboii, may 
 een October 
 
 ne \ear old 
 
 
 i;i:i,t.i:vtK iior>^i:— iuont vn w. 
 
 set and one 
 ?, widj^eoii, 
 s forbidden 
 
 " THE bELLEVUE HOUSE 
 
 Femi kaming Station, Quebec. 
 
 fi' 
 
 ■ Maskin- 
 i6tli May 
 
 ih August. 
 
 . irey trout. 
 
 er. . . . 
 . White 
 
 <^ '' >h and 
 
 ■eneral 
 
 ^ of the 
 
 ICt'S. 
 
 sion of the 
 d of Game 
 
 J. .McCoMi.. .Ma\a(-.ki<. 
 
 This House is a high-ceiled, roomy, new building, i)ur- 
 poselv erected to supply the rerjuirements of a class of peoi)le 
 visiting I^ake Teniiskaming, on pleasure bent more especially, 
 and on business. 
 
 No money has Deen spared, either in the building of it, or 
 the furnishing. It is carpeted throughout, hot and cold pure 
 spring water supplied by gravitation on all floors, to baths, etc., 
 electrically lighted, and is situated on elevated ground, in the 
 midst of trees and shrubbery, (affording splendid shade) close 
 to and overlooking Teniiskaming Station and the Lake in front. 
 
 A few feet distant in a separate building, is the "Recreation 
 Hall," containing lUlliard Room, liovvling Alley, "Sample 
 Room,'- and Reading Room. Up stairs is a Concert Hall or 
 Ball-room, Coat and Cloak, and other accessory kkjius. 
 
 The Recrear ,n Hall is 35 feet wide and s/feei long, with 
 a wide verandah all round it, The Concert or Ballroom if. 31 
 feet wide, 54 feet long, and 14 feet high, inside measurement. 
 Broad staircases give access to the Hall. There are facilitie.s 
 for Lawn Tennis and Crolf. 
 
 75 
 
n 
 

 Ill coiiiiei'liuii uitli tlie Hoiisi- is a sleHiii vdi-lil, wliitli laii 
 f>e cliartered for loiij^ or short periods, or lri|>s arraiij^'fil to aii\ 
 part of the J.akf. 
 
 The AIana),'«.T, .Mr. .McCoiiihif, is a man of i'xi)frieiu-o in 
 !iis hiisiiuss ; is an anifiil sporlsiiian, and coiiii)eteiil toadsise 
 ill all tliiiif^s pi rtaiiiiii;^ to Sp(jrt and I'k-asniv. 
 
 The terms are I2.50 jii r day, <ir;fi 2.50 per week ; for family 
 parties special rales are made ; also for j^iiests staying,' over an 
 extended jieriod. 
 
 The advanlaj^es wliic-h " Tiii'; Hki.i.i;\ ri', Ilorsi'. " offers to 
 all lovers of Iliiiiliiij^ and iMshiii;,' w ho are desirous of l)rinj.jiii^' 
 their families for a snnimer oiilinj,' ainiil the vir).;in \\ild> <>f the 
 rp])tr Ottawa, are most ai)parenl to those wh(» have oiiee lieen 
 there. The I<ake Hows past the front, where hoatiiij,' may he 
 enjoyed to content, an<l fishing indiilj.ed in. Close hy runs 
 the swift and turbulent waters of Gordon Creek, an outlet of 
 Kippewa I.ake, the water of which, in one place particular! v, 
 throws itself in wild efTusion over its rou.nh rocky hcil, forming 
 a very beautiful " Chute." TIuoukIioui its leu^tli there is the 
 best of fishing. 
 
 The bush adjoins the IIou.se, through which numerous old 
 "chantier" 1 or bush 1 roads are cut. In their sea.sons wild 
 berries abound, and are unexcelled in tlieir quality. There is 
 good lishing close hy at the rapids, and in the l.ike'close to the 
 Hotel— niaskiuijuge, pike, pickerel, black ba.ss, ling, channel 
 cat-fish, sturgeon, and other fush of lesser note, with an occas- 
 ional good catch of speckled and gixy trout in the rapids below. 
 Salmon trout are to be had in lakes not far away. .\ walk of a 
 couple of hours or so brings one to a small lake and creek 
 abounding in speckled trout ; or, in another direction to I.ong 
 Lake Rapids and f Lake on Cordon Creek, where great 
 sport can be had among bass, pike and pickerel. During the 
 hunting season moose and red deer are got in close i)roxiniitv, 
 while the timid hare is more numerous than is i'uagined, Part- 
 ridges are often shot from the threshold of the Hotel. Duck 
 shooting is to be enjoyed on the small lakes emptying into the 
 Gordon Creek. Hears, wolves, lynx, foxes, martin, mink, 
 beaver, otter, fisher, and porcupine are also to be found in the 
 several localitits favorable to their habits. 
 
 Kxcursion trips by steamer up Lake Teniiskaming would, 
 when once made, be repeated, so much would the bold scenery 
 be enjoyed. Camping parlies of ladies and gentlemen can be 
 organized for a few, or more, days' of unique enjoyment, and 
 be conveyed l)y steamer to any f tlie nuinerous suitable spots 
 on the shores of that beautiful lake, where bathing, boating, 
 fishing, and hunting, can be indulged in to contentment. 
 
 77 
 
Such are some of the inducements held out by the "The 
 Beij.kvuk HorsK " as a Sportsman's headquarters for himself 
 and family. Should he desire an extended trip into distant 
 fastnesses, his family could be left at the Hotel, in all comfort, 
 and getting the benefit of the pure air of the region. 
 
 It may be added that the House ciisanble is of the best, 
 being absolutely clean and (|uiet. 
 
 Any information desired will be cheerfully imparted by 
 addressing the manager. Hunting and fishing licenses can be 
 procured at the " House " upon arrival. Camping or hunting 
 parties can also be here outfitted throughout, a large store of 
 all necessaries being on hand at " The Depot " close by. 
 
 i;i;i,i.i;vi-n iiorsi: — .sidj-; vii;vv. 
 
 Tourists' and vSportsmen's Outfits, such as guns, fishing 
 rods, canoes, tents, camp equipment, cooking utensils, musical 
 instruments, kodaks, and wearing apparel, etc., may be brought 
 into Canada duty free ; providing a deposit of duty on the 
 appraised value of the articles imported is made with the near 
 est Collector on arrival in Canada, which deposit will be re- 
 turned in full, providing the articles are exported from Canada 
 within six months. Duty in full must be paid on ammunition. 
 
 Full information as to that and the Game Laws can be 
 obtained by writing "The .Manager, ' Bici.u.;vuE House,' 
 Lumsdeu's Mills P.O., Province Ouebec, Canada." 
 
 [The ruts of I',c11pv\ie House arc froisi Ihe constnictiou drawings. Half 
 tone on another page (i-i) shows front of liotel from photo.] 
 
 78 
 
y the "The 
 
 for himself 
 
 nto distant 
 
 all comfort, 
 
 3f the best, 
 
 nparted by 
 uses can be 
 or hunting 
 rge store of 
 t by. 
 
 IS, lishing 
 s, musical 
 )e brought 
 ity on the 
 1 the near 
 vill be re- 
 im Canada 
 munition. 
 vs can be 
 ; House,* 
 
 ving.-.. Ilair 
 
 'V./»,y 
 
 im^msMm..