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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. y errata )d to nt ne pelure, \ifon A 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 INTI TftlK •■> Jt VIEW or LOWER CANADA, INTERSPERSED WITH CanaDian Caleie? anD anectioteis^, AND INTERESTING INFORMATION TO INTENDING EMIGRANTS. BV ANBREW OUVER, Sute of iHontrtat EDINBURGH: TitlNTED Br R. 1I£MZIES, BROQDIK's CLOSE, LAWNMARKET^ FOR THE AUTHOR, 1^21. .vpsr"'.';\»-j- . -*v-|VyA'^,,r< 4,. •fv ■ !>, f t,V f ,f ^ -3 •/U -;(. I h y^^ «.' i*t^ • •VWI^M -..--1... ». y#i :|t^;: ' '• '. -^H \',1-~~ '>-i-t-^-:3M^^^,iiA^'jK-'-. ^jiVSu... 7ia(«»teit»»«ak^.W iij>2''^^ ■^•^"-"r^yitiavJ* PREFACE. :n Reader^ it- •:;. -Ji'.*. When I wrote my Journal, and 'iBW OF Lower Canada, I had not even a fistant prospect that the Work would ever be illed to the Press. It was written with a lesign to amuse my friends at home, also to ^ring to my own recollection periods of my ife, with interesting occurrences, which might' jcape my memory. I HAVE been requested, from time time, by a numerous circle of acquaintances, commit the work to the press. 1 have done with reluctance, knowing that there are rorks extant of the same nature, written by len of superior qualifications ; at thie same ^ime, willing to accommodate my friends, and pive what information lies in my power to the itending emigrant, and those who have rela- ^ns ia that country, I have collected such. r If materials from my Manuscript, as I flatter my- self will give my reader some idea of the] country, the climate, soil, produce, and manners of the inhabitants. I would not be found say- ing any thing in favour of my own productions.! If any should reap a benefit, my design is so| far accomplished. lam aware that there are^ many imperfections in the work. The discern.! ing critic, I hope, ^ill not be over censorious. The borrowed passages are takenl from respectable authors, and I hope will prove] a source of entertainment. * The Poetry, with the exception! of the two first pieces, which are published at| desire, is originaL A. Oi H'i Edinburgh, October, 1881. \. - CONTENTS. im\t^yi ■.A(' Djeparture from Greenock, - « • Journal of the Voyage, - - - - View of Quebec, from the lliver St Lawrence, Conquest of the City and Provinces, - View of the principal buildings, &c. Anecdote of Canadian Superstition, French Baker, a Talc, - - - - The English Officer and a beautiful Nun, a Tale, View of the surrounding country, from Cape Diamond, . . « . * Fall of Mont-Morrancie, - - - View of a Wonderful Narrow in Connecticut River, ..... Voyage upwards from Quebec, Various Incidents, .... Arrive at Montreal, - - - - First Ship Launched, . , . View of the Town, - - - - The Markets, - - - Bears, how kept during winter, - Indian Boy, . . . • . The Yanky and his Lady, • P In Pa.c V 1 1 2 6 S Wp It. 15 18 19 21 ^ 1 f IP 24 if 26 29 ib 41 ib 4e ,:^f 45 'M 47- m 48 49 fM 1 I ^1 Pngi An Uproar upon account of Spilling an Old Lady's Holy Water, - - - - 52 View of a Company of Indians, - - - S3 Canadians — their dress, customs, &c. - - 55 Sketch of the Method of Drawing Maple Sugar, and preparing it for use, . , . 56 On Rafts, Sec. - - - - -. - ib View of the Country, from Montreal Mountain^ . 60 I'xcursion to Grant's Island, - . - 62 A Fine Mill, - - - - - - ib . Thunderstorm, - - - - - 65 Excursion into the Forest, - - - ib. Approach of winter — Customs of the Country, 80 Snow and Ice, - . - - - 81, llemarkable Darkness at Montreal, - - 84 Earthquake — an extraordinary one, ^ m $5 Falls of Niagara, - - - - - 93,. Departure from Quebec, - - - - 109, Journal of the Voyage, - - - - 118 Storm at Sea, - - - - - -lia. Arrival at Greenock, - - - - ^20. A Word to Intending Emigrants, - - 121 . CONTENTS. •yH' * Pagp 'he Vision, ------ 3 llegy on John. Hatty, - - - • 6 Spiritual Song, - - - - - 12. Wilds of Canada, - - - - - 1 ♦ 'hunder Storm, • - - - - 15 Ilegy on Robert Hasty, late Town-piper of Jedburgh, • - - - - 18 Lddress to Fortune, - - - ^ - 22 iddress to Poverty, ----- 25 in Enlightened Heathen on receiving a Bible, 29 rospel Progress, - - - - - 31 Missionary's Farewell to Britain, - - 32 )n Providence, - - - - - 34 'he Times, - - - - - - 36 Jnes to the Memory of the Rev. John Robert^ son, late of Jedburgh, - - - 39 ^o a Friend, - - - - - - 40 ?he Two Yankies, - - - - - ^^ Epitaph in Memory of the Rev. James Fletcher, Late of Liddesdale, .... 48 Pig in a Pock, - - - - - 49 phe Taxes, - - - - - - 52- f I \ i i fi! I Epitaph to the Memory of Margaret Ilutherford, of Jedburgh, - - - - - The Man of the Bush, - - - . Epistle to a Friend, - . . . . The Converted Heathen's Address to his Idol, Epitaph to the Memory of J. F. Address to King George III., - - - Friday Night, ------ On Two Children, - - . - • rng- ^'.. ■ h'ie'^, r •;-'Vr'i ' •♦n • ■ * ' '■ .... ' '■ -' .-,. ' ■ m »' '"' KW. • •* •» - « - .j-^fH".-. ^? «', « ».» " - ■ ..,*■_:» ^ J, of ^- '*b' , M t'**-ilU (. 'jtt*Vi:'jy1 J3r!U ?:^i'i,> .5;,: '. ■ ■'';•:-■ >v^-^ r- iu ~. ^ !.,,'f;: . M , w - -^ .>V*l e*lfiiii'*ll 0, . _, >^.'t . •• •', ,•'■•-'. ^••- ' - . ' t^ \i- , V ' i•l^dy,i»^ .jif /t .v^iU ,^:I/^'/ v, ,, ^..i. ,, - ,.-.: ■-■■: ,;. "-. ■ if^iiidii,^ .. . r>^* *• **y • •- . -«• •* U^ ••*■•-■«•*■•# tiirtTiJs^r'l- saitJiil .'/oil atif hi .' ;. . * V ' - t^^^'f->^>«»* i^).t>j*i.A , -■.•■5^; , - , - - -" .'■ "^ SmH. f> m "^i*!. V J ■ " : " ' - ' t^am^ u»' VIEW '1)1 O. 'n the first day of July, ISO!-, we went on board the brig Emily, at Greenock, bound for Quebec and Montreal, in which we found six- teen passengers, including four children, who were all busy in arranging their affairs for the voyage. We dropt gently downward, and cast anchor about a mile below the town. Next night lay opposite a small village called Lam- lash. The following day we passed the Mull of Kintyre, and in a short time got a view of the north of Ireland. A pretty strong breeze sprang up, and alipost our whole company were attacked by the sea-sickness, \yhich made our situation very disagreeable for a time. I began to write my Journal on the 20th, but found A I 2 I myself very ill accommodated for the under- taking, my chest served, me for a table, and my mattress for a seat. Being in the steerage, I was daily annoyed with the noise of the child- ren, and the general clash of tongues. Cram- med up in a corner, I had no light but what the hatchway afforded ; even that I ;ivas often ^leprived of by the passengers ; for having no- thing to do, they were continually in motion. While our native land appeared in view, the eyes of ail were directed towards it. Now on tie western ocean, bounded by sky, the eye seems to invite another land, though far dis- tant. The parting struggle, which seemed to pervade the whole, subsiding by degrees, we began to amuse ourselves with the prospects liefore us, and endeavoured to make ourselves as comfortal)le as passible. On the 30th, when at sup|>er beiow, we were alarmed by a loud (TV of ^ All hands on deck." Terror-struck, we hastened up the hatchway, but our panic still increased on beholding our captain and whole c-rew in a state of agitation, and a large ship less than a league to the leeward, which they supposed to be a French privateer. She fired twice, bat our captain showed no inclination 0, *H*«^ 9 to strike. Having passed us, she fired a third time, but finding us unwilling to lie to, she be- gan to tack about. Expecting to be mut^; prisoners, the passengers put themselves in their best apparel, that they might appear more respectable before the enemy. Amongst our number we had an old Highlandman and his wife, who seemed most alarmed. They had a bag of money, consisting of some gold, silver, and a considerable quantity of counterfeit half"* pence, which probably was their all. After they had spent some time in hiding it among.- 1 the lumber in the hold, they came upon deck, and, in a plaintive tone, told the captairi " That they wanted to go cut of the town immediately." " Go down below," said he, with an oath. I could not help smiling at their ignorance, for at this time we were some hun- dred miles from any land. The enemy's vessel, in endeavouring to tack, had missed her stays, fortunate for us. We immediately set every sail, and being favoured with a good breeze,^ and approaching night, escaped. Not long after this we were becalmed. The surface of the deep was smooth as glass, and when the sun shone, had some resemblance to^ WW..-*-*.- "^-V ..« •■■«*^i«MM'*fe- . » .__ • » -fc. 4 /, hi : u ' / fl ;i ill melted lead. On the afternoon of the same Oay, we were visited by three grainpussoB^ they came so close to the side of the vessel, that one might have touched the back of the far- thest with the top of an ordinary fishing-rodv They were twenty-five feet in length, and lay very near the surface of the water; in half an hour they left us, directing their course north-east. This calm was followed by a thun« der storm. In the dusk of the evening the cloud appeared upon the edge of our horizon,, the lightning seemed to rise out of the water ; M hen the cloud got higher they became more vivid, and very terrific — the peals were loud and frequent. Fearing every moment that the electric fluid, attracted by the iron, wourd strike the vessel and endanger our lives, we passed some time in great anxiety. After a sharp shower of hail the storm abated, and we were relieved from our distress. " On the 7th of August, we were boarded by two officers of the Charlestown packet, bound for Liverpool. On the 10th we reached the outer banks of Newfoundland, soundings ninety- six fathoms. On the 11th passed two schooners at anchor in forty five fathoms water. In a i 4 ,'' \\^ i little we were becalmed, and amused ourselves by fishing ; caught a few cod, and a great num- ber of dog-fish, the skin of which is used to polish wood, and answers some other useful purposes ; they were in general about two feet in length, and might weigh from six to nine pounds. As we had eaten nothing but salt beef ifnd biscuit in the passage, and of course were in ne€d of fresh provision, we boiled some of these dog fish, which are not used but in cases of necessity, and to us, in our present circum- stances, they were delicious enough. When engaged in this manner, we were gra- tified with the sight of land, which was an agreeable object They were the high lands of Nova Scotia. We entered the Gulph of St Lawrence on the 12th, where we were detain- ed a long time by contrary winds. Caught abundance of mackarel — passed several beauti- ful islands-^-and on one called Green Island we landed. Understanding that it was inhabited by a family of the name of Grant, from Scot- land, we strolled in various directions, but saw no person. After tacking about ten days in the (^ulph, we got into the River. Here we took our pilot on board, ^t the lower ex- it' # (■ I tremity of the Isle of Orleans, we had fand on both sides in view, and small farm houses at intervals. On the 25th of August we had a line prospect of the Fall of Mont-Morrancie, distant about eight miles. In its faU over the precipice, it resembled snow falling from the roof of a house in a thaw. Having passed Point Levy village and church on our left, we immediately got a view of the City of Quebec on our right hand. This city, when viewed from the River St Lawrence, a mile distant, wears a most roman- tic appearance. The hill, or rather the rock, upon which that part of the city fronting the river is built, is so rugged and steep, that the bouses appear as if standing one upon the top of another. The spires of the different churches, which over-top the other buildings, being neatly cover- ^'d with tin-plate, immediately catch the eye as 8t rolls over the promiscuous whole. The as- tonishing height of the rock — the strong forti- fications, with the guns pointing in every di- rection, these on one hand, with the thundering cataract on the other, strike the surprised stranger with awe^ At noon we cast anchor I V I'' opposite the Lower Town, and went ashore \ having been seven weeks and four days from Scotland, and eight weeks from Greenock. The Province of Quebec is calculated at six hundred miles in length, and two hundred in breadth ; and lies between 61 and 81 de- grees west longitude, and 45 and 52 north latitude. ** Quebec, the capital of Canada, as well as of all the British dominions in North America, is situated in 47 degrees north lati- tude, and 71 west longitude, upon a rugged eminence at the confluence of the St Lawrence and St Charles Rivers. It is estimated at four hundred miles from the sea. The rock upon which it stands is a composition of marble and slate. The foundation of the city was laid in 1608 ; at that time the River St Lawrence is said to have reached the base of the rock, but has gradually receded, leaving that space of ground completely dry upon which the Lower Town is built, which, in consequence of its situation, became, and still is a favourable resi- dence for merchants and mariners, and is now of considerable magnitude." The fortifications of Quebec are irregular but strong. The Lower Town is defended by M ■ -^v •«, «««i *, ■. t I ■ ^ i two bastions, level with the \Vater at' high tidcf. A little above, to the right, id half a bastion, cut out of the solid rock ; this bastion is over- looked by a large battery, and still higher arises the most regular of all the fortifications. \i is of a square form, and contains the Gover- nor's house, which, of late, has been consider- ably improved. In 1S06, the wooden palisade which encircled the east quarter of the city was removed, and a strong stone wall built in its place. From the rock fronting south-east, immediately below Cape Diamond, a project- ing battery of wood, containing four large guns, has been lately erected. The bulwarks, batteries, and the walls, are in ejicellent repair, and are considered to be proof against any attack. Within the city there are seldom fewer than two regiments of regular troops, besides oite hundred of the Royal Artillery. The different stations in and around the city require no less than forty soldiers on constant duty. " Quebec was attacked in 1759, by the Bri- tish under General Wolf, who fell gloriously, at the moment victory had crowned his herdc exertions. The Americans attempted to re- take it in 1775, but were repulsed with tliel r loss of their galfant commander Monti^omerf.- The hostile aspect which the United States have lately assumed toward Britain, has caused considerable improvements be made on the for^ tifications around the city. " The conquest of Cape Briton opened the way into Canada. An English fleet entered' the River St Lawrence in June, 1759. No sooner was it anchored at the Isle of Orleans, than eight fire ships were sent off to consume it, but the captains who conducted the opera- tion set fire to their ships too soon, and the- assailants were delivered from the danger;- " The British flag soon appeared before Quebec. The banks of the river were, how- ever, so well entrenched and defended by troops and redoubts, that every attempt to land cost theip torrents of blood, without gaining any I ground. They had persisted for six weeks in I these unsuccessful endeavours, when, at last,, they had the good fortune to land unperceived. It was on the 12th of September, an hour be- [fore the break of day, three miles above the town. The French army, consisting of six jthousand men, was already drawn up in order >f battle^ when it was attacked next day by ai ' •■ ^ vo corps considerably inferior. For somef titoe ai*- dour supplied the want of number; at length the vivacity of the French yielded to the reso- kition and power of the English. In the hour of victory, the intrepid Wolf fell a victim to the service of his country. " The French who survived the battle retir- ed ten leagues from Quebec, which capitulated soon afterwards. The army hastily completed some entrenchments at the place of retreat ; here they left a body of troops sufficient to stop the progress of the enemy, and proceeded to Montreal, to concert measures to cancel their disgrace. " It was there agreed, that in the spring they should march out with an armed force against Quebec, to retake it by surprise, or if that should fail, to besiege it in form. Though the colony had long been in dreadful want of every thing, the preparations were already made, when the ice, which covered the whole river, began to give way toward the middle^ and opened a small canal ; they dragged somej boats over the ice, and slipped them into the water ; the army fell down this stream with I inconceivable ardour. On the 1 2th of AprilJ i I I A WtMMi. ■ ,^ ^,rtfc,,*«i?'^"^-w*|'^,>*^E?fe».« 11 time af- it length the reso- the hour victim to ttle retir- ipitulated jompkted : retreat; [ficient to proceeded to cancel ihe spring ned force )rise, or if Though il want of |e already the whole e middle, ;ged some I into the •earn with! of April, 1760, the British thought they still lay qui^ in their winter quarters. The army landed, and was just arrived at an advanced guard of fifteen hundred men, that were posted three leagues from Quebec, when an unfortunate accident disconcerted the whole scheme. A gunner, in attempting to step out of his boat, had fallen into the water; he caught hold of a flake of ice, climbed up upon it, and was car- ried down the stream. As he passed Quebec, he was seen by a centinel, who, on observing a man in distress, called out for help ; some of the garrison flew to his assistance, and found him motionless. They knew him by his uni- form to be a French soldier, and carried him into the Governor's house, where, by the help of spiritous liquors, they recalled him to life for a moment ; he just recovered speech enough to tell them, that an army of ten thousand French was at the gates, and expired. The Governor immediately dispatched orders to the advanced guards to come within the walls, with all expedition. Notwithstanding their preci- pitant retreat, the French had time to attack their rear, and a few moments later they would have been defeated, and the city retaken. The 12 M U I ill. »A assailants, however, inarched on wilh intrepi- dity, which seemed as if they expected every thing from their valour. They were within a league of the town, when they were met by a body of four thousand men, who had been sent out to stop them. The first onset was sharp, and the resistance obstinate. The English were driven back within the walls, leaving eighteen hundred of their bravest men upon the field, and their artillery in the enemy's hands. The trenches were immediately opened before Quebec, but as there were none but field pieces — as no succours arrived from France -—and as a strong English squadron were com- ing up the river, they were obliged to raise the siege, and retreat from post to post to Montreal. Three formidable armies surrounded these troops, which were reduced by frequent skirmishes and continual fatigues, and were in want of both provisions and warlike stores. " These miserable remains of a body of seven thousand men were obliged to capitulate, and for the whole colony. The conquest was con- firmed by a treaty of peace, and this country increased the possessions of the British in North America." 13 intrepi- ed every within a met by a been sent ras sharp, ; English , leaving nen upon ; enemy's sly opened none but )m France were com- l to raise post to urrounded J frequent id were in stores. !y of seven ;ulate, and t was con- s country British in In Quebec there are two market places, which are commonly called the Upper and Lower Market, the one being within the city, which is termed the Upper Town, the other near the wharf, in the Lower Town. The principal days are Monday and Friday. These markets are well supplied with the produce of the country, but inferior to the grand markets of Montreal, of which we will have occasion to speak in the course of the work. The streets are irregular, some of them remarkably stee^ and crooked. Mountain Street, which connects the Upper with the Lower Town, is formed from the solid rock, of difficult access, especially in winter. Here you descend into another by wooden steps, where, in a deep storm, the snow is equal to the eaves of the buildings, and the inhabitants are obliged to cut a narrow alley by the front of their houses, on each side of the street, to admit the light and get access to one another. In general, the streets in the Lower Town are narrow and unwholesome. The city is not so confined, being exposed to the free air. St John's, which is the princi- pal street, is pretty level, but the houses are low, and upon account of the materials of which 'i ^1, ■'I { <«•• • 14 V . ; I * ! 1; ■ I Ihey are built, and the little ingenuity display- ed in the workmanship, they exhibit but a jnean appearance. In a niche, cut in the cor- ner of a house in this street, stands the statue of General Wolf, pointing to the spot where the British army were encamped, immediately l)eforc the city was taken. The houses within the walls, and those of the Lower Town, are built of stone dug from the rock, which, being of a limestone nature, is reduceable by fire ; should the internal part be consumed, the walls must be razed. Tlie roofs are mostly of wood, lap-boarded, or covered with shingles. The principal building is the Governor's house. Its situation renders it very pleasant, i>tanding upon that part of the rock immediate- ly above the wharfs, it commands a prospect unequalled by any in Quebec. The English church is a modern building, with a beautiful spire covered with tin plate. There are no other buildings worthy of notice. In Quebec there are six places of worship or churches. Four of these belong to the Catho- lics — Church of England — Church of Scotland. There are also a few dissenters, but their num- ber is small. The inhabitants being mostly of <»»mmmmmmmm 1^ French extraction, this language is in gcncrnf use, and the politeness, civility, nnd gaiety of that nation has infused itself into tliC prevailiiii; manners. These qualiHes, however, are not accompanied by proportionate liberality and knowledge. The Canadians, particularly the lower orders, are generally ignorant ; few of the men can read or write, the little learning among them is confined to the women. A Canadian seldom takes any step of importance without consulting his wife, by whose opinion he abides. Both men and women are remark- ably superstitious, and blindly devoted to their priests, who seem to have an absolute sway . over them. The following instance^ from a hlte writer, I take the liberty to give my readers, as a specimen :— * " On the evening," says Mr Wild, " before we reached Quebec, we stopt at the village of St Augustine Calvaire, and, after having stroll- ed about for some time, returned to the farm- house where we had taken up our quarters for the night. The people, who had cooked some fish that had just been caught while we had been walking about, and every thing being ready on our return, we sat down to supper by r I m I i i , i 16 U f :'3 i j J" I V % the light of a lamp, which was suspended from the ceiling ; the glimmering light, however^ that it afforded, scarcely enabled us to see what was on the table. We complained of it to the man of the house, and the lamp was, in conse- quence, trimmed. It was replenished with oil» taken down, set on the table, still the light was very bacl. " Sarre Dieu," exclaimed he, " but you shall not eat your fish in the dark.** So saying, he stepped aside to a small cupboard, tooiik out a candle, and, having lighted it, placed it beside us. Now all was going on well, when the wife, who had been absent for a few mi- nutes, suddenly returning, poured forth a volley of the most terrible execrations against her poor husband, for having presumed to /have acted as he had done. Unable to answer a* single word, the fellow stood aghast, ignorant of what he had done to oflfend her. We were quite at a loss to know what had given rise to such a sudden storm. The wife, however,, snatching up the candle and hastily extinguish- ing it, addressed us i^^ p« plaintive tone of voice,, and explained the whole affair. It was the holy candle, " La chandelle benite," which her giddy husband had set on the table.. It had k }\ •''mmmmi HM m .mmm — 17 been consecrated at a neighbouring church, and supposing there should be a tempest at any time, with thunder and lightning ever so terrible, yet if this candle were but kept burn- ing while it lasted, the house, the barn, and every thing else belonging to it, were to be secured from all danger. If any of the family happened to be sick, the candle was to be lighi- ed, and they were instantly to recover. It had been given to her that morning by the priest of the village, with an assurance that it pos- sessed the miraculous power of preserving the family from harnii and she was confident that what was told her was true. To have contra- dicted the poor woman would have been useless. For the sake of our ears, however, we eiidea* voured to pacify her, and that being accom- plished, we sat down to supper, and even made the best of our fish in the dark." Although these poor deluded people are care- ful to obey their priests in certain punctilios, yet their leaders are not over conscientious in their charge. The profanation of the Lord's day is nothing thought of. Gaming and dan- cing is much practised in and around the city, seemingly without restraint>^ and many vice» ) i I! '^I'-'T--"'- . .^' 11- m i- orer-Iooked. Indeed the Sabbath seems^to'be' over when public worship is ended. Residing in Quebec almost twelve months^ I got acquainted with several C^iadian £euniliesr where I sometimes passed a winter evening. They are extremelj fond of hearing and relat* ing wonderful adventures. They consider the* takiug of Quebec to be a desperate attempt, and relate wonderful stories of that achieve- jnent» and circumstances immediately connected i«ith it. Being seated by the stove, one even- ing, an old Canadian being requested, we were amused with the following relation. " After liie British had taken Quebec, a French baker was empbyed to furnish the garrison with' bread. An English officer, from the first sup- ply 'vhich he presented, took a loaf, and gave it to'his^dog, while the store lay for distribution among the soldiery. \\ hether moved to this^ from suspicion or mere chance, is not said, but the poor animal, after eating the loaf, was sud- denly seized with convulsions, and died in appa- rent agony. The fatal effects of this induced those who were the witnesses of it to make a further trial of the loaves upon other dogs, andi they shared the same fate. The baker was 'J I, 19 apprehended and strictly examined, and fir eonfessed that he had infused or mixed poison- ous! ingredients in preparing the breads with a design to poison the garrison. It was strongly suspected that others were in the plot, but he could not be prevailed upon to mention any accomplices. The case being dear, sentence Was passed upon the baker, 'That his ow& oven should be heated hotter than usual, him- self thrust into it, and there roasted alive,'' which sentence," said the old Canadian, ** was quickly put in execution.'* After our old gentleman had trimmed his> pipe, and emptied it^ the stove being also sup- plied with a stick or two, and the general clat* ter hushed, he began again. ** An English officer of rank, one day, when walking by a convent in the Upper Town, chanced to cast his eyes upon a young lady, who, at the time, was looking out at a window. She was beauti- ful — his attention was caught, and likewise his affections-'^but in consequence of her retired situation, k was with the greatest difficulty that he found means to open a private corres- pondence with her. Being a nun, she was daily under the inspection of her ghastly visitors. .it. ■ -H ^^, r'^m... ff 20 n whose severity upon the slightest ofTence she BO doubt dreaded. However, a private corres-' pondeiice was carried on, and the fruits of it began to appear. The holy fathers, inflamed with rage, were determined to dispatch her out of the way, and she was condemned to the flames, the punishment of those who are guilty of fornication within the Holy See. Being acquainted with this their design, she found means to apprise the officer with her awful situation, who went immediately to the holy fathers, and, in a civil manner, demanded her of them, but they stoutly refused, at the same time denouncing vengeance against her. The officer, who little expected to meet with such treatment, ordered out a party of Soldiers, drew them up in front of the convent, and sent this short message to the fathers, * That if the lady that he had demanded was not delivered up without delay, he would burn the nunnery over their heads, with all that appertained to it.' This message, and the manner of delivering it, with a view of the English soldiers under armsj wrought powerfully. They delivered her upj at least the persons sent had free liberty ta take her away, although they themselves made 1 i'. 1? v. 21 their votaries believe that she was wrested front them by force. Whatever might be the conse* quence afterward, she was sent over the water to Point Levy, and soon after to England." There are a number of respectable merchants in Quebec, whose stores are considerable. Up- on articles imported from Europe, thej expect 50 2)€r cent but seldom reach it. Cotton goods are cheap, and many other articles are nearly as low as they can be purchased in Britain. The markets are in general well attended, both summer and winter — butcher meat is low. Fire wood brings a good price, when we consider the immense forests which surround the place. But when we take a view of Montreal markets, the price of every article which there meets the eye shall be given. Before we leave Quebec, let us take a view of the surrounding country. Cape Diamond, the highest part of the hill or rock upon which the city is built, is said to be four hundred feet above the surface of the river. Standing here^ the vessels, in coming up to the wharfs before the Lower Town, seem as if they were coming under your feet. From this eminence the whole City of Quebec falls under the eje^ I m 2^ ( The great St Lawrence rofling in majesty— St Charles, one of its small tributaries, silently joins its little stream, ahnost unperceived — while thundering MontMorrancie throws itself over the tremendous precipice, bolting upon the light of the distant spectator. After St Lawrence River passes Quebec, it divides itself into two brandies, the strongest current bends toward the east, and is that which the sbips- Gome up and go down. The other branch takes a northern direction, spreading itself about two leagues. This has rather the appearance of a l^ke ; and in a fine summer evening, like a vast mirror, you may behold the various tints of tiie sky, as well as the images of the different ob- jects on the banks, which reflect a lustre incon- ceivable. The southern banks of this branch' of the river, are indented fancifully with bays and promontories, which remain nearly in a state of nature. But the opposite shore is Ihickly covered with houses, extending along^ in one uninterrupted village, seemingly as far as the eye can reach. On this side, the pros- pect is terminated by an extensive range of mountains. The flat lands, situated between* the villages on the banks, not being visible to' fS "t « spectator at Quebec, it appears as if the mountains rose directly out of the water, and the houses were ;built on their steep and rugged sides. The horizon, under the eye of a specta- tor upon Cape Diamond, though not very ex« tensive, contains beauties perhaps unparalleled in any country. " The scenery," says Wild, ** that is here exhibited, for its grandeur, its beauty, and its diversity, surpasses all I have hitherto seen in America, or indeed in any other part of the globe. In the variegated expanse that is laid open before you, stupendous rocks, immense rivers, trackless forests, and cultivated plains, mountains, lakes, towns, and villages, in their turn strike the attention, and the senses are almost bewildered in contempla- ting the vastness of the scene. Nature is here seen on the grandest scale, and it is scarcely possible for the imagination to paint to itself any thing more sublime than are the several prospects presented to the sight of the delighted spectator." However, it may be remarked, that beautiful as this scene may appear to an attentive observer, there are many who discern not its beauty. People who land here from Britain, are generally too much engaged with ■(li i.-r m \j M '. **i ( ' m their own private concerns, and labour under too many personal difficulties, to enjoy the pros- pects afforded by the country around them, and so pass from place to place, like a criminal con- veyed from one county to another. The emi- grant who has been pent up in a ship for eight or ten weeks, whose small fund has been ex- hausted in defraying the expence of his passage, lands upon the shore of this new country. With little to encourage him for the future, care and anxiety prevail over curiosity. He views the variegated scene, but, void of con- templation, his eyes just roll over the beauteous whole, and he quickly turns to inspect the out- lines of his own situation. Sometimes, indeed, the beauties of his native soil, however steril in comparison, shut his eyes. Like a man with hb head down, he sees all things the wrong way. In March 1805, 1 set out to see the Fall of Mont-Morrancie ; but the St Lawrence being broke up, I went by the wooden bridge across St Charles, and along the banks. Arriving at the top of the Fall, I felt the gpround to shake considerably. Upon account of the melting snow, and breaking up of the ice, the river was 1i much swollen. Large fragments of ice, trees, and brush-wood, canie floating downward, and, increasing in velocity as they approached the Fall, went over in a moment, and for a while disap- peared in the bason below. The noise of this rocky river is entirely lost in the tremendous roar of the cataract. ' VJ Down from the forest wild, the copious flood O'er rocks in rapids roll, toward the verge, •'J*'The frightful precipice, where tumbling o'er, With horrid crash, " doth shake the country round.'' Creeping cautiously forward, I beheld the amaz- ing scene from top to bottom, a perpendicular height of no less than two hundred and forty feet. Near the verge of the fall stands a small wooden house. It was built on purpose to ac- commodate visitors, I understand few choose to venture into it; from this the cataract is viewed advantageously. The water, soon after leaving the precipice, is broken by projecting rocks, and assumes the appearance of snow ; should any person be so unfortunate as to fall within the power of the cataract above the fall, he must inevitably perish ; the bason below is form* c y %' I d I 26 \ )' i W j i i 1 ■. 11 «d of rocks, from which the river flows gently toward St Lawrence. For grandeur antl beauty, this fall is said to be superior to any in America. Here I must beg leave of my reader to introduce a description of a wonderful narrow in Connecticut River. ^' This river is five hundred miles long, and four miles bi oad at its mouth, its inner banl^s, or channel^ is half a^ilebroa^, it takes its rise from the wl;iite hiJIs in.the porth of England, where also springSvtbe river Ken- nebec, about five hundred.rivulets,> which issue from lakes and drowned lands, fall into it« many of them are larger than the Thames at London; in March, when the rain and sun melts the snow and ice, each river is over- charged, and kindly hastens to overflow, ferti- lize, and preserve its trembling meadows, they lift up enormous : cakes of ice, bursting from theirfrozen'beds, with threatening intentions of plowing up the affrighted earth, and carry them rapidly down the falls, of which there are five, the first sixty miles from its mouth. In its northern parts are three great bending^ called cohosses, and about one hundred miles asunder, two hundred miles from the sound there is a narrqw of five yards only, formied by h V; I 'I »h two shelving mountains of solid rock, whose tops intf rcept the clouds ; through this chasm are compelled uo pass all the waters, which in time of floods bury the northern country. At the upper cohos the river then spreads twenty- four miles wide, and for five or six weeks ships of war mi^ht sail over lands that afterwards produce the greatest crops of hay and grain ia America; People who can bear the sight, the groans, the tremblings, the surly motion of the water, trees/ and ice through this passage^ view with astonishment one of the greatest phenomenoofs in nature. Here watei^ is conso- lidated' without frost l^y pressure, by swiftness between' the pintchifig sturdy rocks, to such a degree of induration, thai no iron crow can be forced into it ; here iron, lead,- and cork, have one comtnon weight ; here, steady as time, and harder than marble^ the stream passes irresist« able, if not swift as lightning, the electric fluid rends trees with no greater ease than does this mighty water. At high water are carried through this strait, masts and other timber, with incredible swiftness, and sometimes with safety, but when the water is low, the masts, timberi and trees, strike on one side or the i \ 1 i T 28 '\^ otiier, and though of th^ liit'^t sixe, dffe rtnl? in one moment into shivers^ and splihtered like a broom, to the amazenient of spectators. The meadows for many mHes belbw are coyered with immense quantities of wood thus tbm in pieces, which contpel tht^ hurdiest traveller to reflect how feeble is man, and how great that mighty being who formed the lightning,* the thunder> and the irresistable strength of waters. Between two sturdy rocks, vrhoae towering tops Asunder tear the burdened wintry oloud. Swift flias Connecticut, whose marble brim Bears through with lightning's speed the lofty piMi^ Or dashed against each side witli thundering roar. In splinters strew their wrecks alongst the shore. Majestic flows this adamantine flood, To shew poor ftieible man the power of God. . . . .-rfr -i. I "»'U>! No livring creature was ever known to pa^ through this narrow, except an Indian woman, who was in a canoe attempting to cross the river above it, but carelessly suffered herself to fall within the power of the current; perceivitig her danger,^ she took a bottle of rum which she had with her and drank the whole of it, and then lay down in her canoe to meet her des* 29 iiny ; she manrenously went through safely, and #a8 taken out of the canoe some miles below quite intoxicated by some Englishmen ; being asked how she could be so daringly imprudent as to drink such a quantity of rum with the prospect of instant death before her, the Squaw, as well as her condition would let her, replied, *' yes, it was too much rtiiu for once, to be sure, but I was not willing to lose a drop of it, so I^di'ank it, and you see I have saved all." Quebec being, as was observed, the key of the country, ships of every description land at it, and most part of them disload their cargoes. Goods for Montreal are put aboard smaller vessels, of which there are a great number employed during the summer months. Pas- sengers generally go up in sloops, or steam- boats, the fare to Montreal is two dollars, and if the wind be favourable, a sloop makes the voyage in forty-eight hours; a steam-boat is the more certain conveyance, but none sail in the night. On the 20th of May I embarked on board a smtii sloop for Montreal, which is one hun- dred and sixty miles from Quebec. Nothing can be more pleasant than^ a voyage up the St fh \fi I ( .a 30 \i' i i V Lawrence at thia season of the year, nature was now lavishing her beauties upon the won- dering eye, and every thing bespoke the ap- proach of summer. The river at Quebec is nearly a mile broad, being confined by the steepness of the banks ; in sailing upward you have a fine view of the houses on the banks of the river on each side, lying contiguous, they appear at first sight to be one continued vil- lage. The grounds are laid out in such a manner, that each farmer has the advantage of the river to bring down his grain and wood to market, and to improve the fishing season, the farms being narrow in proportion to their length. About a mile upward from Quebec, the river has a quick bending to the north-west, and as its banks are steep and rocky, you immediately lose sight of the city and harbour ; here it is said to be upwards of thirty fathoms deep, above this it spreads wide, and its channel is very intricate. Every vessel must have a pilot on board, who hath a tho- rough knowledge of the channel, who is entrusted with the sole charge of the vessel. The pilot is guided by certain land-marks, which are only to be seen in broad day, they 31 nature e won- fae ap- ebec is by the rd you anks of IS, they led vil- such a rantage d wood season, tion to 1 from to the ep and he city ards of s wide, vessel a tho- vho is vessel, marks, Y* they etmst cast anchor during the night, though the' wind should eren prove favourable ; some have piud dear for their folly in attempting to sail during the night* At every six or eight miles you meet with a Church, either on the right or left side of the river, ther-e is also cupolas and crosses to be met with by the way side, of which notice shall be taken afterwards. Forty miles above Quebec we came to anchor for the first night and when morn appeared we were becalmed; availing ourselves of this fa- vourable opportunity of visiting the neighbour- ing farmers, five of usj passengers made a mo- tion to go on shore in the boat which belonged to the sloop, viz. two Lieutenants, English- men, who were going up to Montreal to join their regiment, a young woman, my wife, and myself. The river here is four miles broad when the tide flows, having reached the shore on the west side of the river, we fastened the boat, and made towards the nearest house. A woman presented herself, who desired us, in the French language, to step in, we asked her, in English, if she could accommodate us with a bason of milk and some bread. " Je n'intens pas," I do not understand, returned she ; mus- n "II 1 III 32 !^ tcfdng all the French we were masters of, At at length understood, and cheerfully answered our demand. Having refreshed ourselves with this wholesome country cheer, and strolled about a long time, at sunset we made towards the boat, which we were surprised to find at a considerable distance from the water, and half buried in sand. The tide had retired, we at- tempted to drag her forward, but she only wrought deeper into the sand, and every effort proved fruitless ; upon observing this; and the approach of night, one of the Lieutenants sent forth a volley of oaths and imprecations, which lasted for a considerable time without intermis- sion; after this storm was over we made another attempt by running her forward upon the oars, wHh much labour we got her afloat, and gain-> ed the sloop, which we had almost lost sight of. Next morning, being in the same situa- tion, our Captain, who was a Canadian, and acquainted with many of the farmers on the banks, purposed to accompany us ashore on the eas tside,and after breakfast we went down into the boat; this day we were joined by two American merchants, who were also passengers, the one a native of New York, the other of 1 ■f iswered 'es with strolled bowards nd at a ind half we at- le only y effort ind the Its sent , which tennis- nother e oars, gain- t sight situa- n, and >n the on the rn into y two ngers, ler of S3 Bbstbn, they had* been trading at Quebec, and were on their way home. Pulling ashore, we landed near the foot of a precipice ; here we were met by a 3roung man, and two yoang women, Canadians, (one of whom played a sort of tambourine,) whotjonducted us to their cottage. While we were partaking of what the house afforded, the neighbouring peasan- try flocked in, and gazed with looks of admira- tion, minutely inspecting us one by one. Knowing by our dresswe were English, they enquired of the Captain where we were bound fbr, who replied^ Montrealj upon which old madam asked her daughters if they would go with the English, «* ah oui," answered they, smiling ; ** Oh, ho ! c'est bon," said their father, pulling his pipe from his mouth. They shew- ed us every attention, conversed with freedom, and, so far as I could judge, were honest, in- dustrious people. Their houses were clean, and every thing neat, considering their furni- niture, which seemed mostly of their awn ma- nufacture. After paying for our refreshment, we walked along the highway, and came to one of the Crosses erected by the Catholics. It is a piece of wood, about tea or twelve feet lon^ (f. If I in \; S4. I \i ilaving ft cross head of four feet, and painted blacky standing close by the way side. On ap^ proaching it, our Captain did reverence, by lifting his hat, and bending one knee ; the two yx>ung women followed his example. We were surprised al their superstition, and they as much at our nonconformity ; but to attempt to convince them would- prove useless, so we passed on, leaving them muttering out their devotions; Here we saw several of the men^ ploughing thieir grounds. The ploughs in use wer« small and slender, compared to the Scotch plough; sted had' two wheels, which seemed to facilitate the movement; "[Fheir yoke was two borses. ' '[j^ey paid little attention to streight* ihg the furrows^ but turned over the soil in a eareless^manner, which -seemed soft and easily wrought^ Their harrows are in form of a tiriang-le. 'fbe whole of their implements were coarse, and very little ingenuity is displayed in th& workmanship. We entered the< forest, and employed "some time in gathering what the Yan^^ 11168= call Canadian balsam, which burstedfrom some' of the trees, like large drops of gum. Here were hundreds of fallen trees, rotting amongst the under growth; and thousands of I A snak noye shon ^lion: mile the and set ther of th ^nd J tv- 35 painted On ap- ice, by he two e were hey as ittempt ► so we* \t their he men^ } in use Scotch imed to iras two reight- oil in a easily n of a ;s were iyed in st, and eYan« d from gum. 'otting ndsot snakes in the swamps. Being grievously an* noyed with musquitoes, we returned.towards the shore of the river, but the rest of our compa-^ ^lions had gone aboard the sloop, which was a mile distant. Perceiving a small canoe upon the beach* we launched her. I went .aboard and set myself in the bottom, and the Yanky set to work to gain the sloop. I took up ano- ther paddle to, assist, and* leaning over the side of this parrow vessel, in a jjaoqient she upset> find plunged us bjoth over the shoulders in the river. Having recovered ourselves, we caught the canoe, which was floating, bottom up. Standing up to the middle, I was doomed to ^ear a great variety of new coined oaths, branded with beii^g water sick. '< In the name of wonder, how comes it. to pass, after crossing the great Atlantic ocean, to get sick on a fresh water river?" It was needles to reply, yet I could aot help smiling at. the fellow's pa- tience in lengthening out his harangue, by exclamations, exhortations, and instructions ! Had there been any spectators near, I am cer- tain they would have laughed heartily at the scene. It was lucky we were within our depth, for none of us could swim. After putting in \i " It i4 26 stones for ballast, a.nd many proniises on my part to sit steady, we boarded again, set off, and reached the sloop. A canoe of this kind is wrought out of the solid tree, with conside- rable labour, ten or twelve feet in length, and will admit only one person in breadth, but will carry three or four. The paddle is about five feet long. The canoe is more expeditious than the boat or hatteau. Next day we had a gentle breeze, which changed our situation but only a few leagues, for we were again becalmed before night, and also the two days following ; and, since we could not make ibrward, we were resolved not to loiter on board. At ten next day, when pre- paring to go ashore again, the Canadians and Yankies upon the deck, ready to step into the boat, we were alarmed with a shrill cry of " O, help, help !** I ran up, and, looking over the side of the vessel, saw the young woman pas- senger hanging by a rope with both bands near the stern, and her body half under water, the boat drifting downward with a boy in her. Seeing there was no time to lose, I caught hold of the next rope, coiled it, and threw it to the boy, calling, at the same time, to the poor -II 37 woman to hold fast. Having pulled up the boat, the woman was taken in almost speech- less. While I held her she fainted, and some time elapsed before she could be taken up into the sloop. She said that she went down to the boat to secure a good seat, but the boy too hastily and imprudently loosed the rope which fastened it to the sloop, and of course it drifted; the woman perceiving this, caught a rope that accidentally hang over the stern of the sloop,and suffered the boat to get from below her. After this fright, she never could be prevailed upon to go on shore. Notwithstanding, five of us went to the west bank, which we found steep and rugged. Looking around us, we spied a creature ascending before us about the size of a fox, which we pursued. One of the Yankies, a little a-head, stopt all of a sudden, << O ho ! my stinking friend," said he, " I know you, it is the skunk, let us avoid it." No sooner had he spoken, than the noisome effluvia, arisingfrom the matter which it had squirted abroad from its bushy tail, was felt. " I know a gentleman," continued he, " who lost a suit of new clothes by this stinking devil." Proceeding downward, we came to a line mill, which was driven by a D i^t 38 t -^ I ! I I small stream. The miller, being an English- man, received us kindly ; after showing us the machinery, we were hospitably entertained in bis house. .Next day, we went ashore on the east side of the river, and wandering downward, came to a cupola, supported by four pillars of wood, in which hung -a fine image of our Saviour upon the Cross, which gave a fitriking representation of ills sufferings — we gazed upon it with admi- ration. As soon >as we had entered the dome, Uie Canadians kneeled and began their devo- tions. We felt xjonsiderably affected by the solemnity .of ,the scene, and some of us could not help observing^ that such representations might jhave a good effect, provided idolatry were out of the question. Below the feet of the image a small iron eldest was placed, to re- ceive the offerings. Entering the next farm-- house without any ceremony, we were surprised to find it furnished after the English fashion. Every article was of a superior kind, yet still the consecrated pine branch, holy water, and other fragments of popery, made their appear- ance. Here we purchased eggs at fourpejoce per dozen. ^ 89 Although the country upward from Quebec is beautiful, and the soil in general good, yet there are very few English settlers to be found until you pass Montreal. Almost the whole of the lands along tfhe banks of the river, on each side, are occupied by French Canadians, who I seem happy in their situations, retain their an« cient customs, and speak their own- language. Their houses, which are of wood, are in general olean and comfortable, and the land cleared iii front and backward, as they find convenient. Having a fa(ir wind, next day we reached Trois Reveirs, or Three Rivers, a small town upon the west bartk of- the St Lawrence, at the confluence of three riversj each of which ap- pears larger than the Tweedi The Indians > come down these rivers in July and Augus^, bringing with them furs, which they sell and barter with the merchants: In exchange they 'receive cloaths, hardware, rum, and trinkets, of which they are extremely fond. The situation of Three Rivers is pleasant, of easy access, and it carries, on a good tradcw The inhabitants are mostly Canadians, and some English. A manii. factory of carron ware is carried on in it, to a ooDsiderable exteivt. The number of the houscf > I I;' ii i n _. i ' 'VI i) 40 4 may be estimated at nearly two hiHidred. The influx of the tide to this ptace> which » four hundred and eighty miles from the ocean, proves what a level country the river runs through. The lands in tgeneral rise gently oft each side» and afTord pasturage close to the river. Leaving this place^ we arrived at Lake St Peter, which is fourteen miles long and twelve hroad. In summer it is so shallow, that the most skillful pilot finds much difllculty to bring a heavy vessel through it. We passed two ships aground. Their crews were toiling in their respective boats to drag them into deeper water. At this lake the tide ceases. We fell in with several Indifin canoes, and at night; had much lightning, with thunder. Ikying at anchor in a place much confined with wood, we were infested with a grievous swarm of musquitoes, which pestered us so much that even under the bed clothes we found no shelter frorti their venomous fangs. Next morning we were covered with red spots, which felt hard, and were very painful. On the 4 and the river is navigable for ships drawing fourteen feet water. Upen and ic, and, clean, se, Col- Z!hurch, town is ire esti- cluded. m is al- gates, modern a mean a kind rhi into enty of Id. The er than 43 the mason. There is a particular sand bank a' quarter of a mile from the town, above forty feet deep ; in this sand is a mixture of small shining particles of a gold colour. The walls of a room, when polished with the trowel, ap- pear elegantly spangled ; but these particles are so thin and light, that they cannot be separated, nor felt between the fingers. Besides the buildings mentioned, there are three Catholic churches, the Church of Scotland, a dissenting meeting-house, and one belonging to methodists. Let us now view the markets, which are said to excel any in America. These hold on Mon- day and Friday, but the latter is the principal day. The two squares in which they hold are called the upper and lower market place. In the first of these are sold fire-wood, hay, &:c. The wood which meets the readiest purchaser is maple, ash, elm, and oak, with several other kinds of hard wood ; no person will purchase fir for fuel. The body or trunk of the tree is cut into lengths of two feet, and split. For a cart-load they commonly ask 5s, but the price depends much upon the present demand. However, the Canadian will not sell his hen I i.i i if n in a rainy day. " How much for that loadj j> r 44' SBxd an old Irish lady to a young Canadian,' ** Je ne vous intend pas," returned he, *< I do not understand you." ** God bless me child, what do you say." ** Parlez vous Fran<;ai, Madam,"—" Do you speak French, Madam^" ** No, no, no, ril just give 3s and a glass of mm, so follow me to St Paul street." " Sacr« Dieu," exelaimed he, shaking his head: How- ever, the load was bought for Ss 6d. It is difficult ta conclude a bargain without a little French, as you seldonv meet with a Canadian who understands English^ Before you can reach the centre of the lower market, by Si Paul street, you must press through between two long ranges of carts, loaded with the production of the country. Wheats flour, Indian- corn, potatoes, pork, mut- ton, live sheep, geese, turkies, ducks^ chickens, &£C. with a nameless variety of articles of coun - try manufacture. Amongst these rush-bottom- ed chairs, for which they charge 5s' for half-m- dozen, and plaster laths, of which I saw a cart- load sold at 2s 6d per thousands Approaching the square, the next scene is the vegetable market. Here are cabbages, melons, cucum- bers> fruits in their season, apples, pears,, cur- rants, hutch 2d, m lish p soldiei for yoi monsii sow, ci mastie me no sacre !' as an i atljust( On market met wi fish wh the pre in June is to be weighir bought barrels are cau^ in by th green b (i 45 e, « I IBS me ran<7ai, adam^" lass of Sacre How- It is a little madian e^ lower t press carts, ountry. k, mut- ickens, f coun ' jottom- half-8- a cart- aaching getable cucum- irs^.cur- . vant», cherries, &c. Around the square the butchers retail their meat in open sheds. Beef £d, mutton S^d, and pork 5d and 6d the Eng- lish pound. My attention was caught by a* soldier and a Canadian butcher. " How much for your beef a pound, friend ?" ** Quatre sous,, monsieur." " I know nothing about your cat sow, cut me two pounds of steak." " Du livres,. mastier, ah oui, bon beef, bon beef!" " Give me none of your bones, friend.'*^ " No bon, sacre !" Here a boy volunteered his services as an interpreter, so the matter was amicably adjusted. On the east, to^rard the river, is the fish market, but salmon and trout are rarely to be met with. Amongst the various other kinds of fish which come here in plenty, the shad claims the preference. It resembles the salmon, and in June and July, which are the only months it is to be caught, is remarkably cheap. A fish, weighing six, seven, or eight pounds, may be bought for 3d ; it is excellent eating, and many barrels of them are put up for winter. They are caught in nets in the river, and are brought in by the country people in carts, covered with §^reen branches. There is also a plentiful &u|>» ati .-. i Hi '^ 46 piy of cod. Iti winter codlings are sold at 3d and 4d' the forpit; how they are got, at that season, I am not certain; The leather merchants and shoemakers, from the country, stand by the wharf. The leather ia much inferior in. quality to that manufactured in England; The shoes are mostly of the light kind, and are sold about 4is a pair. JNIogozeen?, which are only worn by Canadians^ are cheap. Besides^ these, the Indians- furnfsh a superior kind, beautifully indented with porcupine quills. They also- bring to market a« variety of birch vessels, of curious workmanship. I was accost- ed by aa< Indian woman, who had- moor-berries in a- basket for sale ; shehad upon her back an infant j which appeared to be about two or three weeks old ; this child was fixed in an upright position, in a box resembling a small coffin, by means of belts, its feet were bent inward, which is their custom. The cries of this little crea* ture would have melted the heart of any but a savage. Among other varieties exhibited in Montreal markets, we may remark, what is there called bear beef Butchers purchase bears in the falK ' -and bury, them under snow during winter^^their 47 Id at 3d at that jrs, from i leather [factured the light >gozeen», re cheap, superior ine quills. of birch as accost*' or-berries r back an D or three n upright coffin, by rd, which ttle crea- any but a Montreal ere called n the falK nter>.their method is this. A box, or puncheon, is pro- vided, large enough to hold the animal, and allow Jiim to rise and turn at pleasure. Being placed in a convenient place in the court-yard, the bear is put in, chained, and a little straw thrown in as bedding. A hole is bored to ad- mit air from the top, into which a stick is thrust, and the whole buried beneath eight or ten feet of snow, which being firmly beat to> gether, the stick is drawn up, and there the animal is lodged for at least three months, and when taken out, i$ fat, and fit for market. In this manner the bear lives during winter, with- out meat cr ^rink. It is said they live by suck- ing their — I went along with an acquaint- ance to see mm give air to his animal in the yard ; he mounted upon the heap, and thrust down the stick, i heard it moving itst:hain, and to convince me farther, he made it roar, by pushing it with the stick, k is necessary to keep the air hole clear, from which you can per- ceive the breath of the «nimal to ascend in a clear day. ^ In winter, milk is brought to market in small ice cakes, packed in baskets or boxes ; in pur- chasing 2d worth, you are complimented with a i i| r s^t". - . P I • 48 litUe atr^w to keep it from slippi&g through jQur fingpCES. I purchased a dressed mutton, which weighed about thirty pounds, for a dol- \w, and, following the example of other people, hojig it in a situation exposed to the air, to save salting it ; in a short time found it quite hard» so that I was obliged to saw it like a Iboard, piece-meal. The taverns contiguous to the market, are generally crowded ; the chief drink is grog. Rum is sold in the shops at 1 5d, and wine, called black strap, at lOd per bottle, but in public houses at double cost. Brandy and gin are dearer, ale 6d, cider Sd, and spruce beer l^d per bottle. Canadian sugar, which is drawn from the maple tree, is brought to the market in cakes, and sold at 5d and 0d per pound. Tobacco sold in the leaf, but twisted like ropes of straw, and coiled up, may be purchased very low. I saw a coil, weighing eight pounds, bought for 6s ; but that which is manufactured in Britain is preferable. , Strolling through the market one day, I saw a crowd of people around an Indian boy, who, with a bow of the description used by those of the upper country, showed his dexterity as a marksman. At the distance of about twenty yards he split an apple, which was stuck upon Hi liii 49 through mutton, or a dol- • people, e air, to it quite t like a ^uous to the chief i at 1 56, r bottle, Brandy d spruce r, which lugbt to 1 and 6d leaf, but liled up, V a coil, but that eferable. y, I saw )y, who, those of rity as a twentv ck upon a rod ; this he did repeatedly, when several of the lookers-on gave him a halfpenny, and a loud cheer. An arch rogue of a monkey, that sat upon the sole of a garret window, with a pipe in his mouth, (on purpose, I suppose, to mock the Canadians, who seldom go without one) to augment the general roar at every huzza, thre\. over upon the crowd a pitcher of water, which some wag handed him from the inside. Before we proceed further, T shall notice a strange spectacle which happened a short time before. A roving Yanky brought down a young lady from one of the neighbouring states to see Montreal. After they had spent the day in dashing about, he mounted his horse to return home, but his partner found herself at a loss, as no person volunteered their services to assist her in getting behind him. Spying a large cask near, she mounted upon it, but while the Yanky was employed in turning in his crazy horse, down went the end of the cask, and in a moment the poor unfortunate creature was im- mersed to the middle in treacle — then ran the laughing crowd from every direction. The Yanky alarmed, and fearing the consequences, B - <. » ■li H I. \i V' 50 i y I ■ 1 ' for the liquid flowed over copiously, clapped spurs to his horse, and rode oflf; upon which the woman raised a lamentable cry of " Jona- than, Jonathan, if you do not come back and free me from this molasses cask, you shall ne- ver inherit jny precious body." He was stop- ped by some persons^ — returned — ^and, after a squabble with the merchant to whom it belong- ed, with the kind aid of some bystanders, the Jady was extricated, and a porter prevailed upon to carry lier upon his back to the next public-house, who was followed by a large as- semblage of roguish boys, who licked their lips as they went along. A spacious niarket place is now cleared, which was formerly the site of a French College, at the head of, which, a monument in memory of Admiral Nelson is erected. Montreal is the chief residence of the North west Fur Compa- ny. The inhabitants, as at Quebec, are most- ly of French extraction, but the number of En- glish, particulary North British, is greater, and they occupy many of the principal houses ; these are mostly merchants and mechanics. As the fuel is hard wood, care is taken of the ashes, which give a good price^ and are collected by Vl.i clappesil i . which '* Jona- ick aiid mil ne- IS stop- after a belong- jrs, the evailed \e next •ge as- leir lips ..4. » which ?ge, at nory of is the ^ompa- j most- of En- er, and ; these As the ashes, Led hj 51 lAen sent out for that purpose hy manufactur- ers of potash, which is considered a staple com- modity in Canada. An old man, blind of one eye, • one of these collectors of ashes, had a cart, which was drawn by two dogs of a middle size, harnessed after the manner of cart horses. These dogs would draw tio less than ten or twelve stones of ashes in bags, and where the way is level the old man rode above all, lashing up the poor animals with his whip^ and encouragin.; them with his voice to proceed. One day, I witnessed three butchers' dogs drawing a cow towards the market, on a sleigh ; and was told that a gentleman travelled from Montreal to Quebec in three days, in a carryol drawn by one large dog. There is nothing more common in the winter season than to see dogs employed for such purposes. Horses and cows are of the middle size; the former generally bring a good price, but kine are low. I purchased a young cow in the market for eleven dollars, at the same time, three pigs of six weeks old, at 7id each, which I fed for some time upon refuse, melons, and cucumbers, &c. which I found in- my garden. Being a mechanic, I was employed by a cer- ■I '■I' u if. '■ I m - 4 ii m t Kl \i •"*-.a^.- *..» ■ 52 u )) I I. tain French g-entlenian, of great power and res- pectability, to repair some of his rooms ; when about to begin at a sitting room, which belong- ed to the old lady his mother, th« pictures were removed, a number of pine branches, which time out"of mind had been sprinkled with holy water, were bundled up, and carefully carried away ; after which we came to a large wooden^ frame of ancient workmanship, covered with glass ; ** this" said the gentleman, " belonged to my grandfather, it is very valuable ; these are fragments of the bones of different popes, who lived at such a period, and at such a place^ you see they are fixed carefully against the back of the frame with silver chains, but still," continued he, " they are like other precious re- lics subject to decay." Having cleared the room of these trumpery, and just about to commence work, I espied a small leaden cross, with the image of our Saviour upon it, hanging against the wall, which I took carefully down and laid in a I'ed ; a little boy, who stood bye, perceiving this run down stairs, and in a moment the whole family were about me, amongst the rest old grandmother, wringing her hands and al- most breathless, crying, "Mon Dieu ! rnon* SQ r \}. nd res- ; when belong- >ictures , which kh holy carried voodeii^ i with longed these popes, place, St the still,** )us re- ; room mence ;h the gainst d laid eiving t the e rest nd al- moiii Dieu P' My God ! my God ! I could not conceive what had given rise to this uproar. I asked the boy, who spoke a little English, what was the matter, " O!" said he, "you have spilt all grand- mother's holy water," I was confounded. " Did you not know," said the gentleman, lifting up the image from the bed, *< that this small chest, pointing to the bottom of it, contained holy water." " No." ** I suppose you did not," conti- nued he, "nor do you know the proper use of it ; well, it is a pity, grandmother is very bad about it." " I am sorry for spilling it;" said I, " but I knew nothing of holy water being there. I laid it in the bed as a place of safety, until you got it removed ta' a convenient place." " Well, well, I must go to the priest, and tell him the accident, and request a little more. Come down stairs, I ffee you are concerned, we will have a glass of grog ; I know you English will be careful not to spill a glass of grog." About midsummer the Indians come down the river in birch canoes, with furs of different kinds, which they sell and barter at Montreal. One day when returning from seeing a ship launched, I saw a crowd of people, went up to them, and was surprised to find them Indians, ^1 54 i; 1 and mo»tIy naked. Some of their chiefs were with themi who were clad in calico, mid their heads ornamented with feathers of divers kinds. They appeared to be military men, but had no arms, only two colours and a sort of a drum, upon which one of them beat with a stick. The common men wore a small piere of cloth fixed around the middle to cover their naked- ness. Their bodies were painted, and for orna- ments they had counterfeit half-pence hung at their ears and noses. Rum and tobacco are ar- ticles they are very fond of, and often spend their all on these. But now the English law forbids any to sell them liquor exceeding a cer- tain quantity. These, and the Canadians, our allies, make but a poor appearance as soldiers. I witnesged a review of a party of the Canadian militia a few days ago at this town, which brought to my recollection a story I have heard f)f one somewhat similar. ** Attention," cried . their oflicer, " he who hath stockings and shoes stand in the front, he who hath shoes but no stockings, stand in the rear, he who hath nei- ther, stiuid in the middle." The dress of a Canadian is coarse grey cloth, undressed, and of their own manufacture. The S5^ M fs were id tfaeir s kinds. had no a drum, a stick. >f cloth naked- or orna- hung at > are ar- 1 spend lish law g a cer- ans, our soldiers, anadian , which 'e heard 1," cried id shoes but no ith nei- y cloth, ;. The Cdat is long and wide, which they lap over, and ' tie about their middle with a sash of red, green, and yellow ; trowsers of the same, and brown mogozeens. kistead of a hat, they wear a red cap hanging to the shoulders. The women also ' follow their own passions, and are very careful to cultivate the growth of their hair, which they plait double up, and fix with a comb. Whatever pride they may have, it does not ap- pear in fine cloaths. In i\ inter, the common people wear great coats, large mitts, and socks over their shoes. Those in a superior station, walk abroad in furs. A gentleman in his great coat, muff, and tippet, with socks over his boots, or wrapt up in bear skin, dashing along the streets in his carryol, might draw the attention of the crowd in Edinburgh, but in Montreal and Quebec, nothing is more common. The children are healthy. Being inured to the climate, they bear the extremes of heat and cold much better than the emigrant. Their diet is Indian flour boiled with milk, for break- fast, fresh soup with bread, at mid-day, and tea or coffee toward the evening. They rise betimes. At five in the morning I have fre- quently seen some of them almost naked, sU- iiV, 4? ■^i H6 t' '•:• .♦ *'i \i tiDg at the door, devouring bacon and gftrDc >^ith greediness. Labourers, who are some- times at a distance from home, often make a dinner of bread, mapple sugar, and butter. Before proceeding farther, I shall give you a sketch of their method of drawing this sugar, and preparing it for use. In the month of March, when the sap begins to ascend the tree, when the days are clear, and the nights frosty, the Canadian commences his' sugar harvest. Parlies of English, prompted by curiosity, make excursions into the bush to see their operations. Four of us, having provided ourselves with a Httle brandy, set out, and with some difficulty, owing to the deepness of the snow, arrived at a place where this work was going on. We found a boy, who was employed in collecting the juice from a great number of trees which had been pierced. At the root stood a vessel of wood, containing a quart; more or less, which he emptied into a pitcher, and carried to a large kettle, suspended from the branch of a tree, underneath which a moderate fire was burn- ing. A sufficient quantity being thus collect- ed, was boiled a considerable time, during which it was 9cumn>ed frequently. Being sufficiently 51 id gdrlk e some- make a ter. jive you is sugar, lonth of the tree, s frosty, harvest. ;y, make erations. with a ifficulty, •rived at in. We )llecting is which a vessel IS, which > a large a tree, iS burn- collect- g whick Kciently boifed, it is then put into a trough or cask, har* ing a hole at the bottom to drain off the molas- ses. This done, they put it into such vessels as they have at hand, where it hardens, and is brought to market in cakes. A quart of the maple juice, with a proportion of spirits, makes an excellent drink. In July and August an immense quantity of wood is brought down the river in rafts. Oak always claims the prefer- ence, staves in general meet with a ready pur- chaser. Besides various kinds for mechanical purposes, much fire wood is brought down the country in rafts, and those whose circumstan* ces will permit, can purchase from the raft at a much easier rate than can be done in the mar- ket. As rafts differ greatly in dimension, and one kind of wood is more valuable than ano- ther, so the prices are more or less. A good raft will bring its proprietors fifty dollars. Some of these come a long way. The wood is cut in winter, when the hands of the husband- man are bound up from agriculture. If his property is extensive, and his circumstr^oces good, he employs a number of hands^ sends them into the bush a considerable time^ finding them in victuals^ The first object Lttended to < II t'' •I \ A 5g ,-f %. these men, is to pitch- upon a- place vfheri^ the kinds of trees intended to be cut, may be easily dragged to the water ; this done, they erect a temporary wooden house, in which they, deposit their provision^ and other necessary ar- ticles. This poor hut, with a thick blanket for their covering,, is all the defence they have against the extremity of winter nights. Their hours of work are from sunpising to sunsettinc^. Each must cook in his turn, and their allow- ance is flour, l>eef, rum, &cc. After sunset they kindle a large fire, having secured the door, lie down around it upon the floor, smoke, and talk three or four hours, then renew the fire, draw close to each other, and resign them- selves to sleep. Many of thera are excellent workmen ; it is astonishing to see how quickly they go through their work of cutting down and squaring trees of great diameter. When the snow is very deep, to keep a large tree from sinking, they fell two oi* three small ones across the way of its fa41. The rafts are built close to the watci*, so that when the river swells they get afloat. A large raft must have eight or ten men upon it to conduct it safely through the rapids ; and should the voyage be long, fcl.' &iSai.«««ctaki«aKM f^ t H l> H I > «< ,ce vfheTPk ;, may be one, they hich they. Bssary ar- ianket for hey have s. Their unsettinc^. eir allow- er sunset cured the 3r, smoke, renew the ign them- excellent V quickly ing down When tree from es across lit close to ells they eight or through be long. 39 fhey erect a temporary hut upon it for shelter, and cooking their victuals. In approaching the rapids of St Louis at Montreal, every man must stand by his oar. Passing over swift as an arrow, the right hand men immediately ply their oars, to turn the head of the raft to- wards the wharf, then a general plunging of oars commences, and every nerve is strained to get out of the current, which, in spite of every exertion, often sweeps them quite below the town, and, of course, it becomes a losing con- cern to the proprietors, upon account of dis- tance. Wheat and flour is floated down in a similar manner, in a large vessel called a skow, ttie flour in barrels, and the grain in bags. Were it not for the benefit of this great river and its tributaries, the upper country farmers would never be able to bring their produce to market, and doubtless be obliged to dispense with the want of many necessary articles of merchandize. Having taken a view of the town and mar- kets, let us now extend the prospect. The is- land of Montreal is twenty miles in length, and ten in breadth. It is formed by the junction of the St Lawrence and Ottaway rivers, a part 'iJ 60 ':i ' I y of the latter falling into St Lawrence at the head of the island, the greater branch taking a northerly direction, joins it nine miles below the town. The soil is fertile, especially that which lies contiguous to the rivers. Montreal mountain, celebrated for its beauty, is westward from the town two miles ; it is entirely cover- ed with wood, even upon its top the trees are full as large as those that grow around its base. To view the surrounding country, I ascended by the east side, and with much difficulty reached its summit. Here I had a horizon oi" at least one hundred miles in diameter, under my observation. Casting a glance northward, over the Ottaway, or grand river, instead of feeling enlivened by the prospect, a certain de- gree of horror chilled my spirits. The name- less variety of trees, at this time clothed with leaves and blossoms, present a beautiful scene in the immediate neighbourhood of t!)e moun- tain. This disappears, and the eye rolls over a seemingly trackless forest, resembling the sur- face of the ocean when agitated with a strong breeze of wind. So small a proportion does the cultivated pai t of the country bear to the whole, that it is entirely buried from the sight. How ice at the i taking a lies below ially that Montreal westward •ely cover- ; trees are d its base, ascended difficulty horizon oi" ter, under orthward, nstead of ertain de- he name- ;hed with iful scene he moun- lls over a the sur- a strong 1 does the he whole, t. How 61 vastly different is this from tlio lanJsrape which burst forth unon the deli^^hted spectator upon Arthur Seat, or Eildon hills. Turning from the joyless scene, I could not avoid ex- claiming^, " Who would be so foolish as to leave a civilized society, and drag out his days in this wilderness? " However, the eye is quick- ly relieved by a prospect towards the south. The glittering spires of JMontreal, the orch- ards, tiie farms, and the cottages, with the majestic St Lawrence, all combine to engage the attention, and elevate the mind, which is not only delighted in the contemplation of the diversified scene, but in the certain knowledge that men, many of whom were reared in a ci* vilized country, are the lords of the soil. De- scending on the south side, I alighted by chance upon the tomb of the late Mr M*T , one of the North-west Company. It seems he chose this for his last retreat. Between the skirts of the mountain and the town, there are many rich gardens and orchards. Walking along a foot path, I alighted upon a snake of a lively green colour. From its attitude, it seemed in- clined to dart at me. I understand there are many of the same kind about tl>e rocky parts of i .'} I :'H *^ - \ \ .). ^ii M 62 the mountain, and are accounted no less dan- gerous ^han the rattle snake. My next excursion was across a part of the river to a little island, commonly called Grant*s Island. It' is certainly a most delight- ful spot. Near the centre of it stands a handso:ne house, which is the summer retreat of the family. And a little westward, a fine garden. The shrubbery seems to encircle the whole island. The internal beauties of this spot are entirely hid from the spectator ; stand- ing upon the wharf at Montreal, he sees only a clump of trees, which appears like a detached part of the forest. , But what is most worthy of notice, is a flour mill, upon the north ex- tremity of the Island. The miller being a Scotchman, cheerfully shewed us the machi- nery. Of eight pair of stones, four were at work at present. The method of supplying the different hoppers with wheat, is by tin boxes or cannisterp, fixed at convenient dis- tances upon a broad leather belt. This belt is turned by a pinion near the roof, and ano- ther in a trough on the ground floor, m hich contains the grain. The empty cannisters in turning. amongst the grain, are filled, ^nd pass* 6S M less dan- part of ]y called delight- •tands a retreat ', a fine rcle the of this ; stand- ?s only a etached worthy kth ex- eing a machi- were at pplying by tin ?nt dis- Hs belt d ano- M hich ters in d pass« ing over the upper pinion, throw it into a large hopper on the upper flat, which serves as a reservoir to the rest below. The bolting machine is supplied after the same manner, so that one man can with ease attend to all the work. Nature hath formed for this valuable mill a barrier, which is a durable ridgeof rocks, extending a considerable- way into the rivef, so that no labour is reqiihred to keep it in re- pair. Upon the whole, the banks of the river from Quebec upwards, during the spring and summer months,: wear a most agreeable asi- pect, and may compare with the Tweed and the Teviot ; only the romantic beauties of cer- tain places, in both these rivers, must be al- lowed to outvie them* But retire backward, you are lost in a wilderness, the extent of which has never yet been ascertained, nor has its interior been explored by the intrepid trav veller. The British emigrant, whose youthful days has been devoted to the stock, or agricul- tural line, upon hearing the frequent news of a large open country, a generous soil, &c. he disposes of his stock and moveables, crosses the ocean, pushes his way, perhaps some hundreds of miles up this great river, may be he is for- I' U r I 'V 4i inl ^^ G4 n ' \ f J 1 ,r / H \ tiinate enough tf> obtain a grant of one, two, or three hundred acres of woodland. After build- ini^ a hut for sheltering himself and family, he must commence the arduous task of cutting and clearing the wood from his ground, urged on by the calls of necessity, he feels his situation very disagreeable for a long time. He and his family must be supported, if reduced in circum- stances, he is often obliged to give his neigh- bours a share of his labour. In the midst of toil, and many insurmountable difficulties, he begins to discover, " That the pleasure of an independency is only to be attained by ardent industry." My next excursion was into the forest, which had almost terminated my career. About the middle of July, 1 807, I visited the mountain a second time, and rested an hour upon its summit. Here I formed a resolution to make an excursion into the bush, and to travel in a northerly direction. A thunder storm approaching, I left this delightful place, but before I could extricate myself from the brush wood about its skirts, I had the mortifi- cation to be bit all over face and hands, with these pests the musquitoes. At night it thun- .^* J — — 63 one, two, ter build- imily, he tting and urged on situation e and his I circum- is neigh- midst of Ities, he re of an Y ardent St, which I visited an hour solution and to thunder 1 place, om the mortifi- s, with t thun* defed tremendously. The cloud from which it issued was so large, that it covered the whole horizon, and so slow in its motion, that it was difficult to know in what direction it moved. When nearest, it was within three pulsations, or 914 yards^ Some of the peals were remark- able for their loudness, &nd resembled the report of a great gun, more than the hurling noise of thunder. Its greatest discernible distance was 55 pulsations, wbich U about ten miles. Next morning I was surprised to 6nd the shallows* encircled with sulphur ; from a washing tub which was left without doors, 1 gathered it on my fingers, so strongly had the air been im- liregnated; Being preparied for rty projected" excursion, I prevailed with an acquaintance, a Canadian, whose desire for novelty was as strong as my own, to accompany me. We were provided with two excellent fusees, and plenty of shot, each a pair of long boots, and provisions for two or three days. Travelling northward, we had a good rc^i* for ten miles. On the third Monday of July, about noon, we reached the shore of the Otta- way River, and made a signal for a batteau or ' t €> 1 \ ^.— _ii^- \ u I. i: 60 a beat. Having crossed this ford, we strolled about among the Canadian farmers, until the extreme heat of the day was abated. Hinting our design, some of them advised us to give up, others to augment our little stock of provisions. Being fully determined to proceed, we compli* t(l, and set forward with a numerous load of bread, cheese, and rum. An old man accom* panied us to tlic extremity of his cultivated grounds, and, among other things, told us to avoid the Indians as much as possible ; ** for," said he, " although they are under a restraint in the town, who knows what they may be guilty of, when they have a favourable oppor- tunity, for the sake of plunder." We thanked liim for his advice, and parted. We imme- diately found ourselves in the forest, all dis- tant scenes disappeared, only we had the plea- sure to get a peep^ at Montreal mountain fre- quently. Night drawing on, the musquitoes- iiiinoyed us. Iking much fatigued, we chose out a place to re^t, contrived to kindle a fire, and passed the first night in the best manner we could. On Tuesday morning we set forward, but made very slow progress, upon account of 67 strolled until the Hinting give up, ovisions. ^ compli* load of accom* iltivated Id us to " for," •estraint may be J oppor- ;hanked imme- all dis- le plea- ain fre- quitoes- e chose ( a fire, nanner •d, but int of fkllen trees and brush-wood, besides the' ground became swampy. The first thing that caught our attention, was the snakes ; at every step they appeared, but always fled. We ob- st^rved only two kinds, the black and green. The former sheltered themselves in the hollow trunks of rotten trees, the latter, resembling the eel, disappeared among the moss. We killed one, which measured thirty two inches in length, and four and a half in circumference, saw a few squirrels. About mid-day rested, and refreshed ourselves, where we had the good fortune to find water, which we stood much in need of. By four o'clock afternoon, we were quite spent, and having seen nothing worth our notice, we consulted what course to steer, climbed a tree, to see, if possible, on what direction we had moved, but the moun- tain was beyond our view, so we had only the declining sun to guide us. Rummaging our stock of provisrons, we were startled by a sud- den burst among the brambles, we prepared ourselves, and made towards the place, it was a large fox devouring a bird of the vulture kind, having loth let fly, we killed it, but had not the presence of mind to take off it's skin. ■u !,i ;|/ ill i 68 I^iifihing our way still north; we arrired at tt gentle declivity, inclining west. We travelled in that direction, in hopes of falling in with a stream of water, for we were terrified at the idea of wanting this article, having already suflered from not having any vessel to carry it. Here we found a variety of birds, and ground- squirrel 3; The soil was scanty, the trees of hard wood. Having spent thesecond night as we had done the first, when morn appeared, we pursued our course. Arriving at a rivulet, we judged it to lie the source of a river, a tributary of one of the three rivers that fall into St Lawrence, eighty miles below Montreal. Travelling down ward» we found wild grapes and plums, in great ))lenty. Some spots also abounded with moor berries. At noon we rested upon the trunk of a fallen^ tree, and refreshed ourselves. Hav- ing travelled a considerable way. downward without making any discovery, we passed this night by the river side. On the fourth day we began to hesitate, and had some thoughts of returning home. However we still held down the banks. At last we came to a kind of ford, where we per- 69 ired at st travelled in with a ed at the already I carry it. ground trees of lad done sued our jed it to neofthe 3, eighty wnward, n great ith moor e trunk Hav- wnward sed this lesitate, home. :s. At we per- ceived the impression of large feet upon the sand, which we believed were those of the bear. We discharged our pieces, to see if any creature would make its appearance. Hearing a plunging in the water, ran towards the place, a creature set up its head, resembling an otter, but disappeared in a moment. Here were plenty of small fkh. Sitting down to break- fast, we, for the first time, espied a bear walk- ing slowly down the opposite bank. Although we were both a little timorous, yet we resolved to attack it. Striving to get as near as we could unperceived, unluckily my neighbour's gun went off, while he was pressing through the brambles. The animal took the alarm, and made quickly away. As the appearance of the clouds predicted a sudden storm of rain and thunder, we drew towards a rocky hill, and sheltered ourselves under the projecting root of a large tree. At night, it began to thunder, and about midnight the lightnings were vivid, and the rain remarkably heavy, for the space of three hours. Our situation was very dangerous. The awful peals shook the rock. Sometimes we thought that the. *^ il (1 P: / H ill u 70 f *■• VI V) n Inrge root' would fall and bury us I)eneath ib. In this dilemma we passed this dreary niglit. On the morrow we clambered up the hill to look around us, but we saw nothing but forest^ bounded by the sky on every side. Our spirits sunk, and our minds retreated homeward, and we felt oar resolu^ons faii; Resolving ta proceed towards Montreal, we examined our stock of jirovisions, and atiH had plenty for the journey, Just al>out todepart, we per- ceived smoke at a confiiderabte-distance, norlU by west, we at once resolved to make towards it As we descended the hill, we saw a fox enter a hole, beneath a^oose rockl* We set to work to undetmine^the place.- After two hours Imrd work it gave wayy and swept us before it^ but we lost our trouble, for reynard on hearing the disturbance, thought proper to leave hi« residence and disappear ; getting cjuickly down the stream,' we fell in^with a sort of tf ack, but whether of* man or beast, we could not deter- mine. At length we reached another hil 1, which had some, spots of verdure upon its si les, which we took, for a good omen. Here we passed the night, anxious to know what next day might produce. Passing* downward* we II 11 joneath ib. ry niglit. the hill to but fores tv Jur spirits komeward, Resolvinj|f examined ad plenty t, we per. ice, north e towards (aw a fox We set to two hours before it» n hearing leave hi« kly down rack, but lot deter* ther hil I, its £1 les. Here we hat next irard, we savv that noisonne creature the skunk, an^ tlie hummin^^ bird, which we killed; this bird is remarkable for its smallness, of a dark blue colour, inclining to purple, being « real curiosi- ty we preserve(i it, we also killed two hares, and carried them with us. Now the stream had many windings, its banks were steep and rocky, we found the track again, and followed downward -as quickly us possible, what with travelling and with want of proper rest, we found ourselves quite debilitated, besides this we were frequently overcome with a certain degree of fear; we could not tell where we were, nor in what direction we had advanced for nearly tbree days past, our whole dependance lay in this stream carrying us down to some inhabited part of the country. Having followed the tract for some time, -we came at length to a plaee where «ome trees bad lately been cut with an axe, now we considered ourselves to be in the neighbour- hood of some human habitation. In a short time we fell in with an enclosure of Indian corn, from which we found a good road leading northward. We followed it, and came unto a canoe unfin- ished, lying by the stream, and some wood for t I: ' fl V m 72 (5ther purposes, by these we knew that a dwell- ing must be close upon us, but whether of that of savages, or civilized mankind, we knew not. Seeing no time was to be lost, we screened our- selves in the bush, keeping a close look out, saw the smoke about a quarter of a mile dis- tant, arising as it were from one habitation, which the trees hid from our view. At last we perceived an old man roming up the bank on the op]^)Osite side of the stream, he stopped at the canoe, drew out some tools from below it, and commenced working. We crept near to inspect him more narrowly, at length de- termined to discover ourselves, but judged proper to fire one of our pieces, which started him so much, that he let the instrument fall from his hand. Seeing him looking round about with astonishment, we presented our- selves to view, two wretched looking figures, almost in rags. He stood staring at us with- out offering to move, wc threw down our guns, went forward, and my companion saluted him in French, but he stood speechless, by this time we were close to the stream. I spoke to him in English, and he answered me immedi- att!y. We felt so overcome with joy, at this 73 it a dwell- er of that knew not. ?ened our- look out, mile dis- abitation, At last the bank e stopped ora below rept near ength de- judged :h started iment fali ng round a^ed our- 2^ figures, us with- our guns, luted him by this spoke to immedi- fi at this instant, that wepUinf;cd through the stream at the nearest, and took him by the hand, it was some time before we recovered the use of onr tongue, and tiie old man broke the silence. " Young men," said he, *' by what chance have you come into this remote place, have you lost your way ?" ** Yes," said I, " wo are rather at a loss, our curiosity has led us too far." ** Where came you from, what countrymen are you ?" ** From Montreal, my comrade is a Canadian, and I am a Briton born. The old man seemed to feel for us. " Go bring your muskets," said he. We did so. " Follow me, my little cot is hard bye, l need not ask you whether you are fatigued, for I see you are ^o, and stand much in need of both rest and refreshment." When within sight of his house, ** there is my lonely cottage," said he, •* rest here a little, until I apprize my wife and daughter, for I assure you that neither of them have seen a man, but myself, these twenty-six years." He soon re returned, and we entered the house with little ceremony, and was kindly rcceive every idians, I have ?ad it. igland lerica, 1 will , and •unds, v/hich were spots here and there, as they lay convenient. His crop consisted of wheat, Indian corn, and potatoes; with some pot herbs, and tobacco. His cattle were not al- lowed to go at large. He had a portion of the bush inclosed, by rails nailed from tree to tr^e, from which the under-growth was cleared. But his swine had liberty. (>n Tuesday, after breakfast, we accompa- nied him to the river, where he fell to work upon his canoe. *' I need not," said he, ** have bcrn at the trouble of making this, had 1 been cart- ful enough to secure one which 1 lately lost. We had a thunder storm, accompanied with a heavy rain, about the middle of last week, which swelled the stream considerably. It was night, and so dark that I durst not ven- ture abroad. On the morning, I found my canoe gone. After a fruitless search, almost a whole day, I returned, and fell to work to make a new one. Yet still, when this is finished, I intend to renew the search." " How long time will finish this ?" " If I continue at work, I shall have it in the sl:eam to-morrow, if you choose to stay a day or two, I shall be glad of your 11 i1 76 H 1' company dbwn witli me." " How do yau- Ininfj^ your catioe up ai^ain ?" hdrag it where the rnrrent h stimvj;. About noon next day, he finished his work, jiud to accommodate us, launched his canoe. AV'e went aboard — pushed off, but had- scarcely proceeded twenty yards downward, when she upset, and we were completely ducked. Next morning betimes, having provided our- selves with necessaries,and putiir afew stones for ( allast, we sailed downward. Coming amongst r'ic'lis and narrows, we could not proceed far- ther without disembarking; and by means of rojios lowored down the canoe. At last we wi le obliged to make it fast,, and proceed with* out it. Coming to a place where the rocks seemed to close upon the stream, and almost to stop it altogether. " If I find my canoe at nil, it must he here,'' said the old man. Exa-. milling the place, we found that the stream, after vvindiiv^- amongst the rocks, entirely dis- ;ip[ieared. We soon found the place of its en- trance. It was a rugged subterraneous pas- sage, about nine or ten feet wide, over the month of it, hung in frightful projection, sharp. blue rocks, apparently loose, and ready to^ 7T Id you where \ work, canoe. carcely len she ^d our- )nes for nongst ed far- sans of ast we with- rocks ihnost noe at Exa- ream, ly dis- its en- pas- r the sharp iy to tumble upon us. We looked in, but it was quite dark, so we could only see a short dis- tance, but what surprised us most of all, we heard the bark of a dog at a distance, in this passage. Mentioning this circumstance, the old man, " It must be my poor dog, I have not seen him sinc*^ yesterday. I have not the least doubt," continued he, ** but my canoe is in this place, which has led him hither." We called him repeatedly by name, but he only barked the louder. After a long consultation, we resolved to reconnoitre this dark passage, but first, we went round the hill to make ob- servations. We soon discovered a small cataract, which we found to be the mouth of the pas- sage. The old man seemed to lose all hopes of seeing his beloved dog any more. " I can," said he, " when I lose one canoe, make ano- ther, but when I lose a favourite dog, who has been my companion in these wikls so long, where shall I find another." Having prevail- ed upon hiai to bring down the new canoe, my comrade and I went aboard. I'iie ok] man !ct us go down with the current, a!)out tf ii or twelve fathoms, which was all the rope lie liad with him. Having made ourselves fai n ' J r do which we took good care to observe. lie had peeled off the bark from certain trees, whicli served for guide posts, all the way from his own possession to the edge of the forest, by keeping these in our eye, we found our way in half of the time we had been travelling before. We arrived at Montreal in a very ragged con- dition, and never afterward had a desire of another excursion into the bush. On the approach of winter, which common- ly sets in about the latter end of November, all the shipping leave the harbour, otliervvise they would be in danger of being frozen in, and of course take up their winter quarters. After this })eriod, you will not find a vessel that carries a sail, in the neighbourhood of Montreal. Now families prepare for approach- ing winter. A stove is set up. Those who do not choose to purchase, crn rent one for four dollars the single, or six dollars a double stove. During the winter, people in good circum- stances places in double windows, and set up a porch, to defend against the severity of the. climate. The common people content them- selves with covering the joinings of their win- dows with pasted paper, kc. When the sugwa fulls, are lail their s| as to Decei town, levellel each are da perish compl einplo to the This short next 1 the m passin produ In tremc three wint€ feet < the 1 81 He had ?s, which fi'om his brest, by r way in f before, jed con- esire of 3mmon- veniber, her wise )zen in, Liarters. 1 vessel lood of )roach. who do •r four stove, ircum- Jt up a of the. them- ' win- SilGW falls, wheeled carriages of every description are laid aside, and sleii^hs and carryols used in their stead. The river is generally frozen, so as to bear passage, about the latter end of December. But at the rapids, opposite the town, no carriage can cross, until a road be levelled ; for there the flakes of ice rise over each other, forming mountains, between which are dangerous hollows, where the unwary often' perish. However, when the rapids becoi"' completely wedged up, a number of ro'^"*^!!; employed at the public ox^pence, to fixr^i road to the opposite side, which is nearly fdW miles. This done, they set up branches of trees, at short distances, as guide posts, in case the next fall of snow fill up the track. This is the market read, on which there is a continual passing and repassing of sleighs, with country produce, and carryols with passengers. i» In January and February the cold is ex- treme. The ice upon the river measured three feet in thickness, for three successive winters. The snow^ at an average, was four feet deep over the country, yet the air was for the most part pure and healthy. Indeed. L .0 ! • ; i 'j r ( I' ■. I r ' II V; ' f; > i i 82 I found that I was able to endure the winter cold, much easier than the summer heat. About the latter end of March, the ice begins to give way, for by this time tbf: sun lias great influence. The snow dissolves i«n rapidly, that for some time the streets are al- most impassable. People wear brogues, or wooden shoes over their boots. These are cut put of a solid block of birch wood, and may lie (yrchased at one shilling and threepence ii Pi»t8 ikWhere the grounds lie exposed to tijc sun, ^if^ sheltered from the north wind, Gardeners uncover certain spots, and sow their cabbage,, which transplant in May. About tl>e end of April, the river is clear of ice, and toward the end of the month, sloops and schooners make their appearance at Mon- treal. In M its are aU [)gues, or >e are cut d may he epence a seel to the th vviiui, sow their s clear of th, sloops f at Mon- a beau* ecorated pple, ami ct. Tlie Ih The exertions Vegeta- is to be In May, the ground is ready to receive the seed. Wheat is the principal grain, but the growth is so rapid, that the crop is not so weighty as in England Barley grows pretty well ; but oats degenerate in Lower Canada. Potatoes are good in general, but upon ac- count of the drowth, are not very plentiful. Their hay in general, is good in quality, but not abundant. In June, the fields are cloathed in w .are, the beauties of summer meet the eye in every direction. About the middle of this month, the shad flies cover the country, and continues passing upward, following the course of the river, for several days. They are so nume- rous, that the air is filled with them ; and, heing white, like a small butterfly, they re- semble a shower of snow from the east, driven by a gentle breeze. About the end of this month, thunder is frequent. The air^ before a storm being impregnated with sulphur, people feel uneasy, a difficulty of breathing, and a iieaviness about the breast. A little good rum and water taken, has been found to give some relief. One night, in particular, the at- mosphere was illuminated, as it were by one i M IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ ^ <" 1.0 I.I us IL25 III 1.4 ■ 2.0 ii I 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEftSTER.N.Y. I4S80 (716) •72-4503 \ iV 4 A \ o^ n B4 continued blaze, the thunder so near, that I was not jable to measure time between the flash an4 the report. Many of the peals were uncommonly loud. On the morning, the shal- lows were encircled with sulphur. However little damage is done in proportion. An old Scotchman, who had been in this country, from his early y^ars, told me, that " about thirty-five years ago, in the month of August, 9t mid-day, a great darkness was seen approaching up the St |Lawrence, toward Montreal, which in a short time enveloped the town, bringing with it an uncommon sulphur- ous smell— ^lightning frequent and vivid, gave a momentary brightness to the terrible gloom. The inhabitants, struck with fear, thronged to the churches with lighted candles, in the firm belief that the great day was at hand. The astonished birds fell from the heavens. All business was at a stand. Until, at the end of three hours, this memorable darkness went off, and the cheering orb of day regained his wont- ed liberty to enliven the bewildered land.*' Earthquakes are not so frequent in Canada, as in South America. In 1807, a small shock was felt at midnight, in tlie month of May. V K 85 lear, thatl etween the ; peals were g, the shal- However )een in this d me, that he month of irkness was nee, toward iveloped the on sulphur- vivid, gave rible gloom, thronged to t in the firm hand. The ravens. AH It the end of iS9 went off, id his wont- d land." : in Canada, small shock dth of May. Many of the inhabttonts were alarmed, be^iei'- ing this to be the forerutvner of a dreadful eruption. Since the vb!ent concussion which happened in ^tlie year 1 663, which is banded down to posterity in ail its awful circumstan- ces, th&j «oem terrified at tlic slightest visita- tion. Before proceeding further, I shall take the liberty to lay before my readers a brief account of this extraordinary derangement of nature. ** On the Sih of February, about balf an tiour after four in the evening, a great noise was heard nearly at the same time throughout the whole of -Canada. That noise seems tohdvebeen the effect of a sudden vibration of the air agita- ted in all directions, it appeared as if the houses were on fire ; and the inhabitants, in order to avoid its effects, immediately ran out of doors. But their astonishmeift was increased, when they saw the fomldings ^aken with the great- est vieleBoe, «nd the roofs the alternate snccession of fire and darkness in the atmosphere;' alK combined to aggra- vate the evih of dire calamity^ which subverts every thing, by the excruciating' tortures of the imagination^ Distressed and confounded* and hosing,' in thecontemplation of this gene*** ral confusion, the means- of self-preservationi The ice, which covered the St Lawrence and the other rivers, broke in pieces, which crash ^ ed agann^t each other; Large bodies of ice were thrown up into' the ah** and from the place where they had quitted* a quantity of sand; slime* and water spouted' up. The sources of severlil springs^ and little rivers* be^ eame dry; The waters of others were impreg^ Bated with sulphur. And sometimes the wa^ ters appeared red;( at other times of a yellow- ish cast. Those of the St' Lawrence beciune white, /om Quebee to Tadoussac* a «pace of thirty leagues. The quantity of matter neces'> sary to impregnate so vast a body- of water* must have been prodigious. In the mean time* Hie atmosphere, continued to exhibit the most: 88 v,\ I awful phenomena. An incessant pushihg noise^ was heard, and the Hres assumed every species of ferm.^ The most plaintire voices augment- ed the general terror and alarm. Porpoises and sea cows were heard howling in: the water, at three rivers, where none of these fishes had ever been found, and the noise whicb they sent forth,, resembled not that of any known animal. Over the whole extent of three hundred lieoguea from east ta west, and one hundred and fifty from south to north, the rivers and coasts of the ocean experienced, for » conside* rable time, although al intervals, the most dreadful agitation. The first shock continued^ without interri^tion» fdt half an hour* About eight o'clock in^ tlte evenin^« there came a sedottdi no less violent than the first ; and in the space of half an hour, were two others. During the night were reckoned thirty shocks^ ** It appears wonderful that in so extraordi- nary a devangenient of nature^ wJitch- lasted Ibr six months, na human inbabitent should have perishedv and no contagion should have succeed^. The country, soon after, resumed its wottle others^ r shocks* ilraordi- b- lasted should Id have resumed blt^ough hegreHli liver, with respect to its banks, and some parts of its coufse, underwent remarkable changes. Thkt new islands were formed, and others enllurged; Of this circumstance, there does not* appear to have existled' a probability. The river bears no marks of having suffered thereby any iiiterruption, or change in its course, from Lake Ontario to Tadoussac. The Rapids of St Louis at Montreal, and the se- veral islands, remain in the same state as when- Jkcques Carter first visited them.** ' In August the wheat harvest commences, and as- the weather is remarkably warm and steady, it is quhikly got over. £very farmer has a large barn, or store house; where he de- posits his produce ; and when his out Ikbours are over, he retreats thither, where he employs himself in thrashing- out,: and preparing his grain for the markets Potatoes, turnips, carrots. Cabbages, &c. are* brought into the root house, and covered with sand; His fuel being piled up, and ready for use, he sits down snug and comfortable, and- ean smile in the ihce of a wintery blast. Those who are within reach of the market,, bring, in their produce weekly. The graia& s>l •I 90^ heing m haga, and two or three sleigba Ibadled^ the fanner's son is set off an hour or two be the. harness of the horse» bespeak their ap» proach> and bid the passenger clear the way. After market is over, they generally resort to the well-knowa tavern, and enjoy theni^ selves over > glass of grog, at^apipe of to*^ bacca. Sometimes I had occasion to do » little business with them^ On entering the room, I was almost confounded with their kindness. They seem i^ery partial to the Englisli, oxidi are happy to deoi with them^ HT>.wever^feii^ British emigrants ehoose to settle amptigst: them, partly because they cannot understand their language to converse with them^ and because all the French Canadians are catho«» lies. Of course, from Quebec to Moatreal» you will find very few British settlers^ When winter sets in, the labours of the field « are at a close. Those who have been indus- trious during the summer, now reap the frAiits- CJ»i"~«.. 91 Ibadiedr rwo be leir ap» way. jr resort '- Ifaen^ e 0^ to*^ » ft little ierooin» iiadoess. si), and irer>.few .;.« ■ UB^tiigSfc lerstand iv&y and ecatbopose that r so great tnt ought than will has not to obtain g the ob«- d to coni- >se thatr a viduals is are we to ten place^ nal hands isive pro*> e land ly- li govern* intending ed grants he soil is ly. This ith' thak d!angerous disease, the yellow fever, which al- most every year makes such havoc in the united states, nor is it so oppressed with taxa- tion It is well known, that our government has not only given encouragement, but shewn much leDtity to settlers for many years past. The English law protects the person and pro* perty of every industrious individual in Cana- da. Though the gospel cannot be said to be within the reach of every person, particularly those who have chosen situations near the frontiers of the province, yet we are happy to state, that great exertions are making to set- tle preachers among them, and there are sev- eral prayer meetings established, which are well attended. Many of the native Indians as- semble at their respective places of public wor- ship, and hear in their own language the doc- trines of the blessed Jesus, with reverence and attention. Before I proceed homeward, I shalt take the liberty to present my readers with a view of the celebrated Falls of Niagara. ** Niagara river issues from the eastern extremity of Lake Erie, and after a course of thirty six miles>, discharges itself into Lake Ontario^ I^or^ttm- > \ 't;t' n • u 9^ \ i first few miles from Lake Erie, tij'e breadth of the river it three hundred yards, and it is dee[> enough for ve88e4s drawing nine or ten feet water, but the current is so extremely rapid and irreg-ular, and the channel so intricate u{)-> on account of the numberless large rocks in dlf^ ferent places, that' no other ressels than bat- teau^ ever attempt to- pass along it«" *' As you proceed downward the river widens, no rocks are to be seen, either along the shores or in the channel, and tl>e water glide smooth-* ly along, though- the current continues very- strong. The river ruAS thus evenly, and is na- vigable with safety for batteauxi as far as fort Chippawaf, which is about three miles above the falls. At this place the bed of it again be- comes rocky, and the waters are violently agi- tated, . by passing down successive rapids, so much so indeed) that, were a? boat by any chance to be carried a little way beyond Chip^- paway, where travellers usually stop, nothing could save it from being dashed to pieces, long before it«ame to tb» falls ; with such astonish- * A batteau or batto, is aflat bottomed boat, built on purpose to aaSi on shallow water, but it is not so^«xp&<' dili/bus as tht canoe, nof even the> eommon boat rocks them i make ; amidst as it a ing to 4t tun meetir its del makes the lifi bank i obliqu The er thf some ' not ru sheet, tinct ( these side or H< blanci heigh feet, 95 eadth of t is dee^ ten feet ?ly rapul kcate \i])^ ka in dit^ ban bat- r widenf^y he shores I smooth •» ues very nd is na- ar as fori [es above igain be* ntly agi- aplds, so by any Dd Chip^- nothing ces, long astonUh- t, built on At ing impetuosity the waves breAk on the rocks in these rapids, that the mere sight^of them from the top of the banks is sufficient to make you tremble. The river forces its way amidst the rocks with redoubled impetuosity, as it approeches-towards'the foils ; at last com- ing to the brink of the tremendous precipice, 4t tumbles headlong to the bottom, without meeting with any interruption from rocks in its descent. Just at the • precipice, • the river makes a considerable bend to the right, and the line of the falls, instead of extending from bank to bank, in ^the shortest direction, runs obliquely accross. The width of the falls is considerably great- er than the width of the river, admeasured some way below the precipice. The river does not rush down . the precipice in one unbroken sheet, but. is divided by islands into ^hree dis- tinct colatteral faUs. The most stupendous of these isihat on- the north western or British eide of the river, commonly called »the great or Horse Shoe Fall, from bearing some resem- blance to the shape of a horse's shoe. The height of this is only one hundred and forty two fleet* whereas the others, are. each one hundred ^ ]4 %• ; k: r i ) m «9^ si^ttyfeet high, but to Us mferior height yit 1^ indebted pnncipalljT for Its grandeur^ thepre;; icipji;e, and of <:oiirs0 the bed^f the river above it, b^ing 80 much lower at the one side than at tlie otiiei;, by far tfaei^eatest piirt of the water iinds Its way to the low side, and msfaes down with greater velocity at that side, than it does at the other, as the rapids abore the precipice are the strongest there, it is from the centre •pf the Horse Shoe Fall that arises that pro- digious cloud of mist, which may be seen so |ar off. The eMentof the Horse Shoe Fall pan only be ascertained by the eye; the gener- al opinion of those who have most frequently viewed it is, that it is no^ less than six hundred ^^ds in circumference. The island which se- parates it firotiti the next faU, is supposed to be about Hve hundred and iifty yards wide. The second fall is about five yards wide, the next island is ab^ut thirty yards, and the third, com* monly called the Fort Schloper Fall, from be- ing situated towards the side of the fiver, on which that Fort stands, is judged to measure ^t least as much as the larger island. The whole exteivt of the predpioe, therefore, includ- ing the islands, is, according to this computa- c^ >r height ,it ir^ tbepre^ riv«r above side than at )f the water iisfaes down han it does he precipice 1 the centre s that pro- ^ foe seen so ; Shoe Fall t\ie gener- t frequently six hundred id which se • posed to be wide. The e, the next third, com- I, from he- re Wver, on to measure land. The bre, includ- ts compnta- 97 tion thirteen thousand three hundred and five yards. This is certainly not an exaggerated statement, some have supposed that the line of the falls together, exceeds an English mile. The quantity of water carried down the fall is prodigious, it will be found to amount to 670,24^5 tons per minute. " We returned through the woods, ^bordering upon the precipice, to the *open fields, and then directed our course by a circuitous path, to a part of the cM, where it is possible to descend to the bottom of the cataract. It can only be done at two places, where large masses of earth have crumbled down, and ladders have been placed from one break to another. The fir^t of these places which you come to, in walking to the river from the Horser^hoe Fall down- ward, is called the Indian ladder, having been constructed by the Indians. We proceed to the other filace, which Is lower down the river, called Mr Simcoe*s ladder, the ladder having been originally placedthere forliie accommoda- tion of the ladyof the iate governor." On arriving at the bottom o' the cliff, yoti find yourself in the midst of huge piles of mis- shapen rocks wit h great n asses o^ earth ^nd t k m 1 * 98 rocksi projecting from the side of the cliff, and overgrown with pines and cedar, hanging over your head, apparently ready to crumble down, and crush you to atoms. Many of the large trees grow with their heads downward, being suspended by the roots, which had taken such a 6rm hold in the ground at the top of the cliff, that when part of it gave way, the trees did not. fall all together. The river before you here is somewhat more than a quarter of a mile wide ; and, on the op{^osite side of it, a little to the right, the Fort Schioper Fall, is seen to great advantage ; what you see of the Horse-shoe Fall also appears in a very favour- able point of view. The projecting cliflf con- ceals nearly one half of it. The Fort Schioper Fall is skirted at the bottom by milk white foam, which ascends in volumes from the rocks, but it is not seen to rise above the fall like a cloud of smoke, as is the case at the Horse- shoe Fall, nevertheless the spray is so consider- able, that it descends on the opposite side of the river, at the foot of Simcoe's ladder, like rain. Having reached the margin of the Fall, we proceeded towards the Great Fall, along the 99 cliff, and ging over ble down, the large rd, being iken such ' the cliff, trees did jfore you irter of a e of it, a rFall, is Be of the y favour- cliff con- Schloper Ik white he rocks, all like a i Uorse- [lonsider- 'i side of der, like Fall, we long the strand, which, for a considerable part of the way thither, consists of beds of limestone rock, covered with gravel, except, indeed, where great piles of stone have fallen from the sides of the cliff. These horizontal beds of rock, in some places, extend very far into the river, forming points, which break the force of tiie current, and occasion strong eddies along par- ticular parts of the shore. Here great num- bers of the bodies of fish, squirrels, foxes, and various other animals, that, unable to stem the current of the river above the falls, have been carried down them, and consecyaently killed, are washed up. The shore is likewise found strewed with trees,* and large pieces of timber, that have been swept away from the saw mill, above the Falls, and^carried down the precipice. The timber is generally terribty shattered, and the carcases of all the large animals, par- ticularly of the large fishes, are found very much bruised. A dreadful stench arises from the quantity of .the putrid matter lying on the shore, and the numberless birds of prey, attracted by it, are always seen hovering about the place. From, the foot, of SimcoeV ladder you may m m h'* /I ^1 / 2 ' I M)0 walk along the strand for some distance; with- out inconvenience. But as you apprpach the Horse-shoe ¥alK, the way beeonies more and more ru^^ed< Iw some places where the clift has tumbled down, huge mounds of earth, Focks, and trees, reaching to the water*s edge^ oppose your course. It seems impossible to pass themj and indeed, without a guide, a stranger would never find his. way to the oppo- site side* For to get there, it is necessary to mount nearly to the top, and then crawl on your hai>ds and knees, through long dark holes, where passages are left open between the torn up roots and trees. After passing these mounds, yoa have t« cHmb from rock to rock, close underneath the cliff, for there is-but little space between the dif and the river, and these rocks are so i>lippery, owing to the continual moisture from the spray, which descends very heavily^ that without the utmost precaution, it isscarcely possible to- escape a»falL At the distance of a quarter of a,mlle from the Great Fall, we w€re as wet, owing to the spray, as if each of us had been thrown into the river. Xh^rc 18 nothing, whatey^r^ to.pjcevent yoa. I A' nor ce, with* pach the ore and the cHft earth, r*s edge^ sible to guide, a he oppo- essary to crawl on rk holes, the torn have t9 derneatk betweeo ks are so ure from 4ly> that -scarcely Dce af a we w€re ch of us irent yoa. ftt)ra passing to the very foot of the Great Fall, and you might even proceed behind the prodigious sheet of water, that comes pouring down from the top of the precipice ; for the water falls from the edge of a projecting rock, and moreover, caverns of a very considerable size, have been hallowed out of the rocks at the bottom of the precipice, owing to the vio- lent ebullition of the water, which extends some way underneath the bed of the upper part of the river. I advanced within about six yards of the edge of the sheet of water, just far enough to peep into the caverns be- hind it ; but here my breath was nearly taken away, by the violent whirlwind that always rages at the bottom of the cataract, occasion- ed by the concussion of such a vast body of water against the rock. I confess I had no in- clinatiou at the time to ga farther, nor indeed did any of us afterwards attempt to explore the- dreary confines of these caverns, where death seems to meet him that should be daring enough to enter their threatening jaws. No words can' convey an adequate idea of the awful gran- deur of the scene ; at the place your senses are' appalled by the sight of the immense body of' 11 .1 1 3 ■ i.J^ * •>>» lor water, tbat come pouring down so closeljr to )iou from the top of the stupendous precipice^ and by the thundering sounds of the billows dashing against the rocky sides of the caverns below you, you tremble with reverentialr fear^ when you consider, that a blast* of the whirU wind might sweep youfrom off the slippery rocks on which you stand, and precipitate you kito the dreadful gulf beneath, from whence all the poiwev of man could not extricate you. You feel what an insignificant being, you are in the creation, and your mind is forcibly im« pressed with an awful idea of the power of that mighty Being, who commanded the waters- to flow, In awful grandenr, .o*er tbe trembluig steep^^ The great St Lawrence falls — asunder driven. By stubborn rocks; engulphed— deep calls to deep,-. Loud roaring— heaves her boiling flood to heavem. Think mortal, ye whov mount the rocky verge. To scan the wonderous whole, think on that power Who rolls ten thousand times its full, discharge, Along the subtle fields of liquid :air. " A snake, of a nvost* enormous size, made its appearance in Lake Ontario. It was first f^iserved^ by two men, who were in an open boat: face of they pi where Saw it as larg resemb a black come sprung or one man of by ag but it snake, North St La it ha thick ed^ neigh self to ecipice^ billows avernft alrfeari whirU IsHpperjr ;ate you whence Eite you. you are ibiy im* ower of k waters- deep,-. vem ower boat: On seeing it raise itself above the suT)' - face of the water, and nmlting toward them, they pulled with all their might to the shore, where they stood staring, terribly affrighted. Saw it fold itself up in coils, forming a circle as large as the end of a hogshead. Its head resembled that^ of a sow, and its body was of a blackish colour; It shewed no inclination to come very near the shore,., but in a little, sprung backward into the deep. The same, or one of a similar kind, attemptedito pick a man off a sloop, which was crossings the Lake, by a great leap against the side of the vessel, but failed in the attempt This monstrous snake, it is most probable,., was bred in the North Seas, and^ found its way up the River St Lawrence, asfar asLake Ontario, of which it hath taken possession. The lengtlf and thickness of its body hath not been ascertain- ed^ but it has created no small - alarm in the. neighbourhood of this lake." ' il '■~. !■. e, made vas first \ an open k ro4' A Calendar^ shewing the Variation of the Weather, the Pk'ogress of Vegetation j and the Customs of the Inhabitants^, at Mon<' treal, &c. 1606. March 10. — Smart showers of hail. In this month the sap begins to ascend; and the sugar drawers begin their ope^- rations. ' Towards the end of this month the earth begins to emerge from its winter covering. 26, 2T. — The ice upon the river brolce up, and began to move downward, which conti- nues a fortnight. The influence of the sun is considerable, and upon account of the rapid melting of the snow, the streets and lanes are al- most impassable. Carryols and sleighs are laid a»de, and wheeled carriages are substituted in their place. People are obliged to walk in wooden shoes, or brogues. Upon account of the breaking up of the ice, the markets are thinly attended^ 1^5 m of the Xiorti and at Mon- haih to ascend, ;heir ope* ■A. the earth corering. :e up, and ch conti- isiderable, aelting of !s are al« iside, and d in their I Mpooden nt of the rkets are A^iril — About the middle of this months Ca- nadian sloops' and schooners make theii appearance. 22. — Thunder — Vegetation makes rapid pro- gresSb May 2.-»The first sliip from Britain came into the harbour. May 10.P— Wheat and^ barley^ sown. Indian coruy pipkins, and potatoes planted. In this month the apple and other fruit trees present a beautiful appearance. ^ 15.— Most of the migratory birdsi common ta this country,' pay their annual visit. 26—- Warm weather, thermometer 7S at noon. Musquitoes very troublesome. 27, 28. — Several ships from Britain^ J une.«-— Thunder, with showers. . . 10 11.— Close warm weather, mucb lightning; and > thunder from the N« W. Thernu)meter SO. About this time the shad flies pass up- ward, followed by [a plentiful supply of ^ shad fish. People in general wear cotton cloths.r July 6. — Very warm weather, much thunder, from the south.. i !l'^ ^ \\ ) a ! ( ■> '( ^1 I m 106 Green Peas in market. ^ . J .5.— Cucumbers and new potatoes. 18. — The ri^er milk warm, ice used to cool it for drinking. In passing along the shores of the river, you maj see, perhaps, one hundred wo- men, standing to the middle in the water, with a table before each of them, wash- ing linens and other cloths. Soap is no object, many families and washer women manufacture it themselves. 19. — Harvest goes on. SO.-r-Much lightning at night. August.— Close warm weather^ 4. — Thunder and heavy rain* 10. — Thermometer 92. From ^e middle of July, until th^ latter end of August, the thermometer ranges from 76 to 96, the weather sultry, with frequent thunder. During this period, people feel a considerable depression of spirits, a. difficulty of breathing, &c. The pavement of the streets that are ex- posed to the sun, are often so heated, that the dogs howl as they pass along. ^.—Harvest nearly ended. 1?8.— IV Septem 6.— F A] ar< int N( tre of Octobti £r W Novem Vs Sh bei In Deceml asi Fe b04 Fi^ 25.— CI Januar) mi 107 to cool it ;he river, idred wo- ;he water, sm, wash- loap ii no ;r women th^ latter :er ranges Itry, with is period, *ession of &c. . at are ex- ated, that as, — Moderate weather. September.— Thermometer 70. 6. — Fine weather. About the end of this month the potatoes are raised, and brought^ with other roots, into the root-house. Now the British feel relief from the ex- treme heat, the weather is more like that of their native climate. October. — Mild weather — ships prepare for England. Winter apples taken down. November. — CM winds to the lOtb. Variable to the 28th. Ships must leave Montreal and Quebec before the 25th. In this month stoves are set up, &c. December 32. — Snow — wheel carriages laid aside, and carryols and sldghs used. People wear socks over their shoes or boots. Fine markets. 25. — Clear frosty weather. January.— The river frozen— milk brought to market in cakes. f ^ il I 'r hi 1 lOB 10.— Codlings sold at 4d the forpit, or Id per quart. February 4.— Snow. — This season the snow at Montreal measured four feet in depth. The ice upon 'the river nearly three feet thick. Though the 'extremity of heat and cold is ^reat, yet the Canadians seldom complain of rither the one or the other. The British emi- grant always feels most healthy in 'the winter season, indeed many would rather endure two winters, than suffer the suffocating heat of one summer. From the time the snow begins tc) fall, until it go Off the earth bythe influence of the sun in the spring, there is seldom, or never, any thaw, nor rain, but for the most part clear frosty weather. The falls of snow are seldom ac- companied with storm, so that the market poads are blocked up. Travelling is much more expeditious in winter, than in summer, and people can travel upon Ihe snow at an easier rate. !?t 109 or Id per the snow , in depth. three feet «d cold is omplain of (ritish emi- the winter ;ndure two heat of one r begins to influence of n, or never, it part clear ; seldom ac> :he market g is much in summer, >now at an At Quebec we went on board the Montreal, a new ship, and set sail for Scotland. Draw- ing near the straits of Bellisle, saw a frag- ment of ice, apparently one hundred feet in height, above the surface of the water, and might be as many below. At first sight we took it to be a ship under sail, as winter was not yet come on. It must have remained in this place during the summer. The coast of Labrador and Newfoundland, exhibit nothing cheerful, but, as far as the eye can reach, are unhospitable, black and sterile. Few choose to reside during winter on these bare coasts. Bellisle is a desolate rocky island, situated near the northern extremity of Newfoundland. There appears not the least vestige of vege- tation upon it. Indeed the prospect is very unfavourable on every hand, and no human habitation to be seen. " Newfoundland is separated by the straits of Bellisle, from the shores of Labrador. On the west it is washed by the Gulph of St Lawrence, and on the east and south, bj- the Atlantic Ocean. It is situated between 46^ 4*0' and 51® north latitude, and between K 110 m^^ SS"" scy and $S'' Q9' west longitude. Its length about three hundred and fifty miles, and breadth two hundred. The form of the island is nearly triangular. Newfoundland lies under a very severe climate. It is constantly assail- ed, either with thick fogs, or storms of sleet and snow. The winter is long, and the cold intense. The produce of the soil is scanty, and insufficient to repay the toil of cultivation. But the produce of the waters enable the population to obtain their provision and cloth- ing, without any disadvantage, from other countries. Here we shall take a view of the fishery, and then leave the shores of this new world. The principal fishery is on the southern and western side. On the Great Bank, which stretches from north east, to south west, about two hundred leagues. The water on the bank is from twenty-two to fifty fathoms. On the east side, from sixty to eighty. On the lesser .«)nks much the same. A great swell and a thick fog generally marks trhe place of the greater. The boats or shallops are forty feet in the keel, rigged with a main mast, and fore mast fis eas \ Ill ts length 1 breadth sland is ;s under y assail- of sleet the cold scanty, tivation. able the nd cloth- m other e fishery, w world, hern and k, which ;st, about ' on the )ms. On On the eat swell place of set in the fore mast and lug sailS; furnished with four oars, three of which row on one side, and the other, which is twice as large, belajs the other three by being rowed sideways over the stern, by a man who stands for that purpose, with his face towards the rowers, counteracting them> and steering at the same time, as he gives way to the boat. Each of these men is furnished with two lines, one on each side of the boat, and each furnished with two hooks, so there are sixteen hooks constantly employed, which are thought to make a toIerabl,> ;ome to Ifish nor use the ie worst rried to ver the he offals : able to soon as them to a table s to gut does ]yy \ the side hat pur- through he then :1s oppo- the fish, n to the largest ugh the 2 fish off md bar- 1 to the 113 salt pile. The header also flings the liver into a separate basket, for the making of train oil, used by the curriers, which brings a higher price than whale oil. In the salt pile, the fish are spread upon one another, with a layer of salt between. Thus they remaii\ till they have taken salt, and when cured, the superfluous salt is washed off, by throwing them from the shore in a kind of float called a pond. As soon as this is completed, they are carried to the last operation of drying, which is done on standing flakes, made by a slight wattle, just strong enough to support the men who lay on the fish. These flakes are supported by poles, in some places as high as twenty feet from the ground. Here they are exposed with the open side to the sun, and every night, in coarse weather, they are piled up five or six in a heap, and a large one laid, skin uppermost, to shelter the rest. When they are tolerably dry, which, in good weather, is in a week's time, they are put in round piles^ of eight or ten quintals each, covering them on the top with bark. In these piles they remain three or four days to sweat, after which they ace again spread, and then put into larger 4 i 1 I I 51 I ^»!« %v '^^^^ ' m heaps, and covered with canvass, and left there till they are put on board. Thus prepared, they are sent to the Mediterranean, where they fetch a good price ; biit are not esteemed in England, for which place otlier kinds of fish are prepared, called by them mud fish, which, instead of being split quite open, like their dry fish, are only opened down to the navel. They are salted and lie in salt, which is washed out of them in the same manner with the others; but, instead of being laid up to dry, are barreled up in a pickl^ made of salt boiled in water. The train oil is made from the livers ; it is called so to distinguish it from whale er seal yll, which they call fat oil, and which is sold at a lower price. It is thus made : — They take half a tub, and boring a hole through its bot- tom, press hard down into it a layer of spruce boughs, upon which they place the livers, and expose the whole apparatus to the sun ; as the livers corrupt, the oil runs from them, and straining itself clear through these boughs, is caught in vessels set underneath the hole in the tub. The number of permanent inhabitants in Newfoundland does not exceed four thousand. Uo there pared, e they ed in of fish which, leir dry They led out others; arreled ater. i; it is •r seal sold at ey take its bot- spruce !rs, and as the n, and ighs, is hole in nts in usand. The fishermen who resort there during the summer, always return upon the approach of winter. Leaving this inhospitable climate, we launched into the great Atlantic Ocean, and after fourteen days had elapsed, in which we had agreeable weather, and a fair wind, we began to be apprehensive of a storm from the north. Our cook, who was an old seaman, and endued with more than ordinary discernment respecting the weather, raised his black visage toward the northern sky, and having considered appearances, gave us to understand, by a signi- ficant nod, that his prospects were far from en- couraging. In a short time the wind began to blow hard. Two men were sent up to the mast-head to look out for land — descried land at a considerable distance on the right hand. Although the storm was now increasing rapidly, yet we felt a sort of pleasure in drawing near home, and in the belief that if we were hard put to it, we might run into some harbour, and tliere find safety until it was over. Cheered by this idea, tiie steward, one of the mates, and I, were taking a bumper of our American rum, for each had brought a little for our private use, \vhen we heard a loud rap on deck, and a ill L J no cry of " Land, land! all hands on deck!*'' hnmediately our carp^o shifted, and laid the lee side of the vessel under water to the main hatchway. I hurried up the hatchway, but how was I appalled when I perceived the dismal agitation which pervaded the whole crew. A momentary silence prevailed, for their senses seemed bewildered. Looking a-head, I sooa perceived the principal cause of their alarm. Frightful rocks reared their rugged tops amidst the boisterous billows, and being a short way a^head of us, and our vessel under a great press of sail, they threatened immediate destruction.. Silence was now broke by a voice from the cabin door. « D— n ! H— 1 ! D n ! H— 1 ! pull men, pull !" In a moment all was activity. But, notwithstanding all our exertions, in a few minutes we were close upon the rocks, and nar- rowly escaped them ; every sail was now reefed, the main-sheet excepted. Had the rocks not been observed at the time they were, we must inevitably all have perished ; nor could they have been observed sooner by reason of a great spray* which was caused by the storm to arise from the raging billows. But, although we liad jescaped the rocks, we were still in the ut* most da no grea absolute as mud driven approac given I of ano below how II this til upon roar, I where both 1 affrigl any c( testifi was b tion binns myse bitua Oi Day and deck I'' ' the lee e main ay, but dismal ew. A senses I soon alarm, amidst ort way It press •uction* 3m the ctivity. n a few- id nar- reefed, ks not 3 must I they great i arise h we le uts IIT most danger, being between two lands, and atr no great distance from either. It was found absolutely necessary to bear up against the wind as much as possible, that we might avoid being driven upon a lee shore. Night was now approaching, and little encouragement was given us to hope that we should see the light of another day. Wet and cold, I went dowij below to change some of my clothes, and see how matters went with my wife,^ who.was all this time alone. She had attempted to come upon deck, but, terrified at the scene and up- roar, had returned and clambered into ht^r bed, where I found her silting, holding fast,! with both her hands, around a large post, in a very affrighted state, and indeed I could not give her any comfort, for the pale visage of each plainly testified that danger was impending. A light was handed down to my charge, with an injunc- tion to preserve it alive if possible, that tlte binnacle might be supplied. For security I tied myself up against a strong nost, and in this situation passed the dreary night.*^ On the morrow our prospect was little better. Day light ushered into our view barren hills and uninhabited wastes on each hand. The.r I ;ii ris deck of our vessel was a perfect wreck — the bulwarks on the lee side were broke in — the cam house, though strongty chained, was tum- bled down— every thing moveable was swept off. The poultry, of which we had a good stock, were standing stiff, and many of them with their heads pushed through between the spokes of their cavie. A cock, «nd two ducks^ had committed themselves to the waves; the two latter quietly submitted ta the tossing of the raging element, but the cock, unaccustomed to so rough a conveyance, raised a noise, but whether tbey.were so fortunate as to reach the land we knew not; neither were we at all con^ cerned. Two days and nights passed, still the storm continued with relentless and unabated fiiry. None of us were able to eat a morsel of meat, neither did we attempt to look after any. Leaving the north of Ireland, we soon came in sight of old Scotland. The first view I got of it, it appeared to me like a dark uneven glen^ Sometimes, it would disappear altogether, and then, on a sudden, present itself for a momenti Such a situation as ours at this time is beauti- iiiUy painted by the inspired penman of the lOTth psalm, and 26th verse, " They mount to I heaven, 1 Our hea [upon th the air. Firth of Rintyn as it rei the bias us no r uiighty bleak r less o*e muloud very di \Vh« purpos to dro] and ca site a were i that I cuttei with sel, a cedin cork 119 eck— -the in— the was turn, as swept a good of them ween the o ducksi ^es; the ossing of customed oise, but •each the ' all con« still the inabated fiorsel of fter any; 3n came ■w I got ?n glen^ er, and lomenti beauti- of the mnt to > heaven, they go down again to the depth.^ Our heavy laden vessel seemed no weightier, upon the boisterous waves, than a feather in the air. When we entered the foot of the Firth of ^Clyde, vfe expected that the Mull of Kintyre would afford us at least some shelter, as it reared its mighty head between us and the blast — but even the great Mull itself gave us no relief. The tremendous storm, like a mighty tornado^ came thundering down its bleak ridges, nor did it stop, but drove relent- less o'er the foaming surge, here raised the tre- mulous element, and there appeared to rake its very channel. When opposite Loch Ryan, our Captain purposed to put in there ; and having prepared to drop anchor, we turned and got quickly in, and cast anchor in fourteen feet water, oppo- site a^mall village, called Cairn Ryan, where were a number of vessels of different magnitudes that had put in there to escape the storm. A cutter newly come in, tlie captain of which, with same of her crew, came onboard of ourVes- sel, and informed our captain, that the day pre- ceding, a'ship from Lasbon, whose cargo was cork wood and oranges, and forty passengers on ,\ ■-1 ■ } i 120 board, bad got too far into the land ; and en- deavouring to tack if possible to stand outward, in the attempt she upset, and the cork wood getting wet, swelled so much as to burst off the deck ; she was seen from the shore about the neighbourhood of Ayr, but no assistance could be given them. Some women passengers were found washed ashore, with many articles of different kinds. In Loch Ryan we lay two ilays and night?, after which the storm abated, and we arrived safe at Greenock, without suf- fering any further injury, having been 32 days from Quebec. 11 1 ; and en< I outward, Jork wood burst off ore about assistance )assengers ly articles '^e lay two m abated, bout suf- n 32 days To INTENDING EMIGRANTS. The step you are about to take, is of vast importance, and deserves your most serious consideration, particularly where families are dependant on your industry. The country you have been viewing in the perusal of this little piece, is extensive, mostly lying under wood. The climate differs from that of your native soil. The extremity of summer heat and winter cold, has been laid before you. What you must lay your account with, after obtain* ing a grant of land from government, is, in the first instance, hard labour, and labour of that description to which you have never been hitherto accustomed. The clearing of land is certainly as laborious^a work as any man can be employed in, particularly during the extreme heat of the summer months, in Canada. But besides this, there are many other things which you would do well to take into consideration : ffr:l»-y- 122 You must have a habitation to shelter your family, your grounds will produce you the materials, but a wooden house, even of the or- dinary kind, sufficient to defend you against the severity of winter, will cost much labour and expence ; true, you may obtain assistance from kind neighbours, but I would not have you place too much dependance upon this, as many have been disappointed. Another thing under your notice, is, where lands lie at a distance from market, the expence of car- riage is considerable, which, added to the ex- pence of cultivation, hath in many instances been found to equal nearly the whole price. It is true indeed, that your families will be supplied with plenty, you will feel no want of provisions, but there are many other things which you will find indispensably necessary. Clothing must be purehased-^furniture must be had'«-and implements of husbandry, &c. Here I would recommend a timeous provision of bed clothes, and wearing apparel, before you leave your native country. These articles are in great request in Canada, especially in the upper province. The country farmers dress in a coarse plain manner, , and those who have ff**^»^!t.-T-»!»v 123 -a little stock, sometimes manufacture their own •cloathing, but this requires time. Be cautious in using the luxuries of the country, and in overstretching yourself at your labours, many have suffered materially by overheating them- selves, and drinking too freely of the water of the River. The common drink is grog— when moderately used, it proves a medicine ; but it sometimes proves an introduction to a habit of drinking, which in this, as in every oilier country, destroys the best constitution, and .shortens life. The low price of rum has often encouraged the immediate use of it ; many ^rink too freely, until a complication of dis- eases render them unlk for the duties of their calling. The emigrant has more need to be upon his guard in this new country, than ever he had in his native soil. It is well known, that the nature of the climate — the provisions — the water, &c. prey upon the constitution ; and I may venture to affirm, that the gene- rality of North sBritish emigrants feel this by experience. I would not be fuund discourag- ing any person from emigrating to his Majes- ty's dominions in this quarter of the globe, no, but I consider it to be my duty to put every ->**''«rt!Lrfir«!f~ te 1^4 person upon his guard, lest for want of proper intelligence, and an idea of the country, he tnay find reason to repent of leaving his native place. The accounts we yearly receive, are as various and unequal, as the fortunes of the writers. In this part of the world, as well as in Britain, there are rich and poor, men are not all alike fortunate, nor all alike diligent, liut an industrious, healthy man, will succeed not only in procuring a livelihood for himself, l)ut, in a proper situation, leave his successors in an easy way. I know this has been the principal object of many who have emigrated with large families. Tradesmen will find employment. If they cannot fall in at Quebec or Montreal, let them go upwards, if their circumstances will permit. A willing mind, with a little perseverance, will succeed. Suffer me to remark, that on landing at Quebec, all the money in my possession, was the small sum of 2id. I repaired to the market place, and l)eing a mechanical man, found employment immediately, at 5s per day. Let none despair, I continued nearly five years in the country, during which period I succeed- ed very welL '"'-■«<^.-; )f proper untiy, he m native », are as es of the as well as , men are diligent, ill succeed ir himself successors been the emigrated . If they I, let them ill permit, ranee, will on landing possession, red to the nical man, 5s per day. r five years I succeed-