V] <^ /a ^y,. v^ % -' y o / M S^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 t^ I.I IIM Z2 M 1.8 1.25 1-4 IIIIII.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation / o m ^ iV iV \ \ ^4 4^ 6^ ^f 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ 4^ i i CIHM/ICMH Microfiche CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notet/Notat techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Teatures of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ □ Couverture endommagi? Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurAe et/ou pelliculAe I I Cover title missing/ n y D D D Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) □ Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Pianches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion ie long de la marge intArieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout6es lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6tA filmAes. Additional comf?>ents:/ Commentaires supplAmentaires: L'lnstitut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a At6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographlque. qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m^thode normale de fiimage sont indiquAs ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur D D D □ D D D D This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. Pages damaged/ Pages endommagies Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restauries et/ou pelliculAes Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages decoior6es, tachetAos ou piquAes Pages detached/ Pages d6tach6es Shjwthrough/ Transparence Quality of print varies/ Quality inAgaie de I'impression Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du materiel suppiAmentaire Only edition available/ Seuie Mition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible ima'!e/ Les pages totalement ou pan allement obscurcles par un fe"illet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont M filmAes 6 nouveau de fapon A obtenir la meilleure image possible. 1 s 7 V d a b ri r( n 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 1 1 y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X i Th« copy filmsd h«r« has b««n raproducsd thSkikt to th« gwnarosity of: Library Diviiion Provincial Archivei of British Columbia Tha imagas appaaring hara ara tha bast quality posaibia considaring tha condition and lagibility of tha original copy and In kaaping with tha filming contract ipacifications. Original copias in printad papar covars are filmad beginning with tha front covar and ending on tha laat page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —^ (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc.. may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper (eft hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grAce A la ginArosit* da: Library Diviiion Provincial Archivei of British Columbia Las imagas suivantaa ont At* raproduites avac le plus grand soin. compta tenu de la condition at da la nettetA de l'exemplaire filmA, et en conformitA avac las conditions du contrat da filmage. Les exemplairas originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimAe sont filmAs en commen^ant par le premier plat at en terminant soit par la darniAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autras exemplaires originaux sont filmAs en commen^ant par la pramiAre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la darniAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la derniAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — »> signifie "A SUIVRE". le symbole V signifie "FIN ". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. pauvent Atre filmAs A des taux de rAduction diffArents Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA. il est filmA A partir de tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nornbre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 MOUNTAINEERING ON THE PACIFIC. 798 MOUNTAINEERING ON THE PACIFIC. MOIM IIAkl.ll, lU'lM UI.IIAU UILL, -NKAU VlCTOKiA, UUUIMl U'lLIJUIIIA. IN these times of volcanic notiviiy, wlicn from nil ijiiarters \\c have ni roiints of the heavinj; anil rriitliiiKof inc eanli's Kiirfaco, and the whole I'nt'itic >'.o|)c is ngitnteil with the throes of earth- quake, some uceonnt of the (irst ascent of Mount Baker, which ha.i heen active within the niein- ory of man, may not he nninterestiiiK. At a time, too, when the Al|iine Cliih linds its oecn- pntion gone, the opening out of a new (ieltl for exploration deserves attentiini. For thouKh Mnuiits Shasta and IIooil have heen several times ascended, they do not present the pecul- iar difficnllies oiiconntered in Hcaliu): the great peaks of Swiuerhind. Hoth of these are easy of approach, and almost devoid of nl.icicrs. Mount Haker is the most northerly of those great cones which dot the Caseaile range, and is only fourteen miles sonlli of the great honiul- ary line cut through the forests which divide the American and English ]M)s»essions. It forms the must st.iking feature in the attractive tccnery aroimd the Fucii Straits and the I'ugct ^ ,ind. Amidst numerous groiipsof islands (the Western Cyclades) and pine-chid heights, like nnotlier "Snowy Olympus," it towers above, the silent sentinel of a solitary land. The author, having satisfied himself with Mont Blanc and the surrounding scenery,* determined to leave the henten pallis of the Eu- ropean ice-fields for the unexplored heights of the West. He took residence in Victoria, Van- couver Island, with (his ohject in vieiv. Al- though it is eighty miles I'istant, n very fine view of the mountain is here presented ; and the recollection of jieaks and )iasscs overctune in the Alps stimulated Idm to the ascent. This account is, therefore, tha result of ohscrvntions made in two previous attempts and the linal success. The mountain may be nppvonchvd on the Buutheastern side by the Skadgett Kiver, tak- • "Scones from the Hnowtlclds," by Rdmnnd T. Coleman. Loagmnn und Co., Londun, isbs. TM HABPEK'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. ing UbMla47> "■ PllC*t Sound, as the siarting- point ; •• ike ««Mni aide l>y the river Luninii, which tlowH iato BeiliaKliain Uny, utkinK Sen- home lu ihe i«uliag;-|m)ot ; and on the north- ern »ide I>T a trail from Fraser Kivcr, tiiking Fort II<>p« as the <*aniBg-|>oint. The first ap- proach «a» ckotc« for the initial atteript, which wa* niad« in coapaar with ('harles B. Larwin, Judgeof the DHliktC'oan ofihe United States, and Dr. Roteft Brown, of Exlinburgh. Wn then arrived at a point about fifty miles up the Skadgett. vhei^ oaring to the opposition ottered by an anfrMMdlr tribe of Indians, the journey wa.H abamloanl. For tJie next attempt the sec- oiul approach, by tke Lammi Hirer, wus select- et!. at the snggeftioa of the Hun. Edward El- dridge. Uie Speaker of the Legislative Assem- bly of Waskiviiiaa Territory. < >n this occasion Messnt. ToneM and Bennett, enteritrixing set- tlor* in tde Jiwict, joined in, and we reached a point nenr the MiMotit ; bat were com|>elled to reiom by icnion of an orerhanging cornice of ice winch bancd the way, and the fact that we had wtUbmr HBcient time nor provisions to make another ifcipc In the following year the ntMott exertions were unable to get up a party ; boi next year the aathor was encouraged to proceeJ br the willingness of Mr. Thomas Strattoo, Infjiector of Cn»!oms nt Port Town- send, Mr. TeancM, and Mr. David Ogiivy, of Victoria, toaccnapaay hint, when the ap])mnch by the LaaiHi «•• again chnven. General M'KeROT, Si^ariatendent of Indian Attuirs for Washington T wiikl ir, kindly placed four trust- worthy Indinnt at my command. These were selected by Mr.C £. Finkboner, who has charge of the l.nnww Reserratitm. To the official sanction thaa girm. and the fi'. " f our dusky eoMpaMoaa far their duties, v . we indebted for oar a nniiij m ancending the river. We can itot forget the expertaess displayed in many difficultiea by S<{aock and Taluin. Squork is (on-iiv-iaw of Umptl>ilnr% the ]>rincipal chief of the Xnotsak Indians. Tliough n Flat-licad, Sqiwrk is rerr handsome, and, with his swarthy face and kwgthin iimli*, resembles nn Arnb. Sare ofsnch gaod company. I determined to ftait 6e«a Vktoria on 4th August, I H(>H. On the o teasiun of the second attempt I took the steamer which tmmt hatween Victoria and Port Tted bif^er gume, and Luvu attacked schooners and trading-vessels. In one instance the (iivwlrr, of Port Townsnnd, was entirely destroyed ' v their ravages in search of "possisKce" and "skookiim chuck" — blankets and whisky — which form their ideal of the chief good. In anotlu^r the sloop Thornton was set up(m by three canoes, and tlie master and crew were only saved through the good services of a Henry rilto. The H/ucIc Diamoml idso came in for n share of their black deeds; and others liuvo been frightened, if not hurt. Apart from such casualties, traveling is rerr enjoyable in these inland waters. The bottom of the canoe is spread with small branches and twigs, and then covered with matting of native manufacture. One's blankets arc placed against the thwarts and form n soft cushion, against which he run rcchne nnd be as comfortable as in n flrst-<'liiss railway carriage. When camp- ing on shore at night the mats arc spread out on the lieuch, and with one's blankets make a soft bed. Gliding along in our canoe, away from the nuise nnd bustle of the bnsy world, the s]iirit revels amidst the beautiful scenery uf the nrcliipelago. Island after island is passed, al! wooded to the water's edge with the cedar, the flr, nnd the tender green of the arbutus. The mossy banks are here corered with bushes, nnd there relieved with bold groupings of rocks in picturesque forms. As we look down througli the clear and limpid waters, the silvery fish are discerned disponing themselves nmong the most beautiful forms of sen-weed and shell ; while away in the distance, bounding the horizon, are the snow-capped Bioimtnin langes of British Columbia and Washington Territory. All these combine to form a succession of charming picture*, and tempt one to c.xdaim with the poet — " Oh ! thnt the (lesert were my dwelling-place. With one fiiir spirit fur my mInUter." In passing along wc noticed the camp of the English garrison on San Juan Inland, and were struck with the singular bea-.ty of ilie scenery around it. In the fore-groujid is the level grcen-swnni with a noble tree rising from its centre, nnd filngcd with spreading maples. Up through these there are winding walks to tliu otiicors' quarters, and beyond, a lofty hill. on whicli n summer-house has l)een erected. where the surrounding shoi^s are seen to ai* vantage. Botwcen this and the America^ camp, seven miles otT, lie farms in a high state of cultivation, the proprietors of which declare it to bo the "best land they have struck," since there nre no rents, no shcrifTs officers, no taxes, nnd no prisiius. Having pnsscd San Juan, and steering througli n narrow passage near to Orras Isl- und, we observed a long jkiIc with a cm*»- picce to it at the lop. It Is the native arrange- ment for catching wild-fowl. A net is spread on the cr(, t-poics, fires are lighted at night, the wild-fowl seeking nt this time their food, nnd tiot seeing the net, fly agaitist it with »iicb MOUNTAINEERING OX THE PACIFIC. 7M force that thoy drop down, and are seized by tlio Indians before they hiivo time to recover themselves. Vancouver ({ivos a nhite of simi- lar polos in his work, and was unable to dis- cover the use of them. Another interesting method of geonring Ki\mf is practiced by the settlers. They go at night with torches and armed with shot-guns to hunt the deer. These animals then come down to the shore to lick the salt otf the stones, and are so thoroughly tpcU-bonnd by the lights that thoy easily mil victims to the hnnters. I also ob- served that our Indians had each a polo armed Willi prongs, lying by their side while thoy pad- dled, with whicli llioy occa'jioiially transfixed the lish as it darted along. Wlicn skirting Orcas Island a curious instance of superstition was manifested. I nrdrcd a shining marine plant floating in tho water ; cmleavoring to seize it, but missiir; my grasp, I motioned to the Indians to catch it. They (irmly refused, alleging that if they iouched it warts would spring out upon their hands. I could not but respect such a particular care of the jicrson, espeoially on the part of Davy, surnainod Crock- ett, who to hie tribe is king, priest, and judge. He is the theocratic head of the Lunimis, and very exemplary he is in the performance of his muhifarious duties — ringing a boll, calling his Hock twice a day to prayers, and continually enforcing upon them the inferiority of all other tribes, and the great privileges thoy enjoy from condescending to bo bom under his own adinin- istraiion — the peculiar year of grace. Hefore leaving these inlands we can not but refer to the peculiar features of civilicntion manifested within them. So plentiful is game that an hour's hunting suffices to catch a deer weighing from 75 to 150 pounds. Their skins are sufticicnt to keep the settlers in tobacco and Hour until they have cleared the ground for potatoes and grain. Thus the necessaries of hfe are easily gained ; in fact, no man need starve in Washington Territory. Jfany of these settlers live with Indian women, and lind a charm in this free and independent life which reconciles them to the discomforts of roughing it in a new country. These attach- ments generally last for life, and the question is surrounded with peculiar difficulties. The alliance secures immunity from the savage tribes arounil ; the position is one which the more tenderly nurtured maidens would not ac- cept, but I have often had occasion to ask whether the term squalid might not appropri- ately be spelled "sqiiaw-lcd." We now enter lleilingham Bay, thus named by Vancouver. The bay proper is a noble sheet of water, and is an irregular circle of about six or seven miles in diameter. It is the linos: natural harbor of the I'uget Sound district, and there the Heets of the world might ride in safety and niana'uvTe with ease. If the Northern Pacitic IJailway should be construct- ed through any of the passes mi the Ca.y the Coin|iauy. I was pro- vided with an introiluction to Mr. Meyer, and those who are e(pially fiirfnnatu will not readily forget this home in the wilderness, nor the skill of "Jim," the Chinese cook. .Jim gabbles away in a lingo which is one-tenth English and nine-tenths C'hinosc and Chinook, and grins with delight if yon only nod your head occasionally aiiil say, Cnnilii- — "I nnileisfand." About a mile from Sealiuinc is Whatcom, famous for the expectations formerly enter- tained of its s])cedy grc.'ness. Its history is a striking instance of the rcai'.'uess with which cities rise and fall in a mining country. Dur- ing the excitement in 18"(8, when gold was dis- covered on Eraser Hiver, it was expected that it would become the great depot and forward- ing phice for supplies to the mines. A town was ra|)idly laid out, two piers were com- menced, intended to be one mile long. For about three mouths there were 1(),(MI(I people camped around, and it was (piltc a common occurrence for half a dozen ocean steamers, and over u dozen stpiare-rigged vessels, to ar- rive from San Francisco. Surveyors might be seen with theodolites and tapes in hand, up to their waists in water, marking off the h)ts of the future city, ami ca)iitalists eager to ex- change their luigs of gold for the sites laid down. Among others the California Naviga- lion Comj)any oll'ered Iji.'iOOO for a jilot to build a wharf on, but finding thut they were unable to cumu to terms with the land-owners, took their money to Victoria and invested it there. About the same time Sir James Douglas, (jov- ernor uf liritish Columbia, gave nn order that no miner should work on Eraser Itivcr without a license, which could be only taken out in Vic- toria. This, in conjunction with the high rate* charged for the sites, occasioned the downfall of Whatcom. The lumber trade around is re- viving, and if the terminus of the North I'acific Uaili'oad be located here, the winter of its dis- content nmy soon become glorious summer, and Whatcom, now deserted and forh)rn, arise like a |iha-nix from its ashes. And certaiidy it has many advantages, the bay abounds with dog- fish, ihe oil of which can be sold to the mills around for oO cents a gallon ; the country con- tains more good farming land than any other west ( r the C'ascade range ; there arc numer- ous streams, in one of which I know that moimtain trout, weighing from two to three pounds, can be caiigli: as fast as the fly can be thrown ; the climate is mild and salubrious, having the sea-breezes and westerly winils tVom the (iulf of Georgia by day, and at night gen- tle land airs from (ho 8now-cu|>ped mountains which refrigerate and iiiirify the atmosphere. The winters are not severe, and sickness is al- most unknown. The creek on which the mill is situated has a character of its own, tuniMing over liiige boulders in a succession of leaps, and overhung by bushes and by ferns, strongly re- minding one of a Welsh mountain stream, in- deed, the scenery around has nniiiy and varied elements of the beautiful. When standing hero at early morn, looking out upon the trani|uil scene, in the distance the Olympian Mountains bathed in mist, ond nearer the grand outline of Orcas Island looming up like some great fortification, inutgiuation ]>i<'ture8 the future, not perhaps far-distant, when these silent shores shall be lined with wharves and resonant with the throng of l>ns,t multitudes. Uefore leaving Whatcom we must not omit to notice a block-house, or old fort, which may be seen on the brow of the hill. It was erect- ed for purposes of defense during the Indian war of IKi'iG. At that time great apprehen- sions were eutertaiued for the safely of the place, as it was expovcil to the attacks of the Indians. All the able-bodied men, being en- tered as volunteers, were organized into com- panies, and sent up .Snohomish Kiver; but a detachment of fourteen was reserved to guard the settlement, with Mr. Eldridge as lieutenant in charge. About one mile distant is the resi- I dence of the Hon. Mr. itoedcr, member of the Legislature. We nuide direct forSquallicuin, the residence I of the Hon. Mr. EUlridgc already mentitmed, who has always taken a warm interest in Ihe -Mount Baker exidoration, and whose house, remembering former hospitalities, we had ap- i pointed the rendezvous for the ])resent start. I Wl' found that Strattun had anticipated Ogiivy MOUNTAINEERING OX THE PACIFIC, TOT arxt myself, i»n«l that Mr. EUlridgo lind aKnem- bled n (lurtr to witnoM our depiirtiirc. Like tlu! Iiero of Excelsior, fiiin woiiitl we Imve lin- gureil i Imt duty urged nn on. When the imiid- ens fiiir hndu "goud-liy, " I iixkcd tliein to )iniy for lis; hut one, more lively thnii the others, ohservec! hot wo lihoidd ho so iiiueh nearer henven w ought to prny for them. Starting in company with our dnsky friends, under the command of "Scpioek," and our canoe loaded with R month's provisions, it appeared that the fates had comhined to render our jouriKfv inter- esting, for tho spectacle that burst upon our view that night was grand in the extreme. For mill's around the forests «i"rc on tire. No il- luminations ever kindled for crowning of king or news of victory could be inoro brilliant. From numberless jiines the coruscations darted lip to heaven, iheir refulgence rcHected in the gleaming waters. In making our way to the Ueser^'ation we observed an old fort, which was garrisoned aft- er the Indian war in \^'>'>. but forsaken when tho ilitliculty occurred relative to San Juan in I8."i!l, tho troops being ordered thiiher. The Kcservation is at llic mouth of the Lumnii, around which a delta is gradually l)eingforme(KX1 Indians belong. Owing to its distance from Tnlalip — about sixty miles — this branch was forme,(XM) to ;!(),000 icres, most of which is fertile and valuable for lum- ber and agriculturul juirposes. It is, in fact, ono of the best reservations in tho Territory, and sufficiently isolated to prevent the en- croachments of white settlers. The Indian town is in the form of a triangle, built around a large wooden crucifix and tlag-statf, with an ensign bearing temperance mottoes, anil con- tains forty-eight good, substantial board dwell- ings, as well as a church, and a number of the old Indian " rancheries" for smoking and cur- ing salmon. Tho Indians here are very order- ly, and have improved in mechanical skill. This is very much owing to the good influence of Mr. C E. Finkboner, for many years the tanner in charge of the Keservation, and the Catholic priests who occasionally visit them. Indeed, the Indians conduct morning niid even- ing service in a cnmmentlablo manner, old Unvy Crockett being their leader. They have already abandoned their ancient barbarous habits, and have adopted thosoof eivil- iz.ition, tem|K;rance, and religion. They have also given np the jiractice of polygamy, flatten- ing heads, holding slaves, and gambling, as well a.s their belief in "Tomnnusos," or medi- cine men. Mr. Finkboner, who is with them and for them, believes that in time they will be- come civilized like white men, if looked after. The priests make an annual visitation for tho purpose of confirming, exhorting, and other- wise keeping them in the straight path. On these occasions Mr. Finkboner sends up and tlown the river for the Indians, and they pour in from all quarters. Two years ago, on leav- ing Mr. Eldridge'.s for Victoria, I could not get In(Iinns to take me, ns Bishop Hlanchef, the lionmn Catholic Bishop of Idaho, Orcjroii, and Washington Territories, with Father Ba\idre, of the Tulalip Heseivation, was making a visit- ation ; aiul the Indians would not do any work until the Bishop had left. Indeed, Fiilher ' Ibi/ulre hiid scarcely time to eat his menls, so ' anxiou;i were the poor creatures to confess to [ him. The following exemplities the religious ' teaching of the priests : Mr. Strntton was ;led with the cedar nnd broad-leafed maple, .-xnd relieved with tho gorgeous crimson nnd In- dian yellow tir.ts of tho vine-maple nnd the hazel. Tho scono would then change; there would be next long reaches of alder and willow, indicating good bottom-lands. Now and then the stately ranks of pines would be broken by some tall fir gracefully leaning fonvard with its arms, and sweeping the stream like some di- sheveled beauty, ('onspicuons among the ar- borage is the Monxies spruce (Abitt Menzii), so called from its discoverer. Dr. Mcnzies, the sur- geon of Vancouver's expedition. Its feathery foliage hangs down in delicate clusters like luce upon a lady's jeweled arm. Coleridge said the birch was tho "Lady of the Woods;" and wo would certainly rank the Mcnzie* spruce as the " Queen of the Forest." We found in Germany that the peasantry around the Ilarz Mountain li^ed in )icrpetu:il dread of tho "Brocken," or demon of tho for- est. Of his mighty acts they told many won- derful tnle.i, although it is now well known that his demunshi)) is sini)>Iy the reflection of the ascending traveler in weird-1'ke shape. At a slmr)) bend of the river we cnine ui)on the scene of a similar legend. Tho Indians formerly be- lieved that here dwelt a terrible spirit that siick- eil down their canoes, and bore them away to the Gulf of Georgia. Near this wo made tiiir first encampment, and discovered sundry de- fects in our culinnry arrangoni(!nts. For a com- pany of twelve wo had only one plate nnd one sjioon. Here, however, in the presence of sav- age scenes and savage life, we easily liiid aside our secondary habits, nnd fell back upon first principles. We m.-iy as well give tho bill of fare adoj)ted for the jouniey : DrcakfMt.—'Yca, bread, bncou. /Mn»i«-.— Bread, hncuii, ten. Supptr.—Ti&iMK, tea, bread. vnrd with it» ke Rome di> ixong the nr- c$ Menzii), so izics, tliu !iur- lu fentlicry iters like luce idgosniil tlie Jh;" and wo Bpinice ns the he peasantry in )>cr|ictiitil in of the for- il miiny won- 11 known timt ection of the ihnpc. At a iK)n the iiceno formerly be- irit thnt sitck- iicm awHv to (vu nindc our 1 Btindi-y dc- i'or a c'om- iliitu nnd one Hence of wiv- lily 111 ill aside ck upon first a the bill of MOUNTAINEERING ON THE I'AcnKIC. The cheerful Hupper ended, we found K>'>itcfid rent on the boxoin of mother earth, and nhel- ter under the canopy of heaven. Next morn- ing we struck camp at live, and reached the " ranch" of C'ohmel I'atteriion almiit seven. Here, on my first attempt, wo had n " wah- wah" with his Indian Jim, who had been in purMiit of elk to the foot of Miuint Haker. To ex]>lain the dilferent routes ho drew the forkn of the river with his finder on the sund, and made n pile for the mountain, on which he placed two stones for the peaks, which we aft- erward named as "Lincoln" ond "Colfax." I copied this in a sketch, hut he could make nothing of it, saying " ho coidd not understand snch Boston ways." In these parts an Amer- ican is termed a lioston man, whilo an EngliKh- man is a King Goorgo man. I afterward foimd thn* Squock had so far improved by association that ho was able to draw a pencil-sketch of the route. After leaving Colonel I'atterwin's wo made another portage. These portages arc the heaviest part of the journey up river. On these occasions every one is expected to give a help- ing hand. Putting their dignity in their pock- ets, one will shoulder his pack, another a sack of tlour or a frying-pan, another the inevitable bacon, and all troop off to some spot on the riv- er above tho drift. Leaving there the sereral "iktas," they return for the canoes, which are dragged across on rollers. . To these all are harnessed, and pull away like animals. On one occasion, when making my woy to the Bernese Alps, I supped in London and breakfastec in Paris; but this day must bo re- garded as signally notable, for we breakfasted with a colonel of tho American anny, and supped at a Noolsak rancherie. Here wo had an opportunity of witnessing civilization in its earliest stages, for there were represent- ed tho arts of ship -building, weaving, and wicker-work, by some men fashioning canoes, two women making a blanket with hair of mountain sheep from the east side of Mount Baker, and the youths constructing salmon- ; traps from the willow for use in tho adjoining ' weir. Having s|K!nt thi* night in the neighbor- hood of this interesting manufactory, we spread our sail to the breeze, or rather bent our barks to tho paddles, and very soon entered a district which, though still densely wooiled, vi'i jircsent- ed rock cropping out from the banks. At first the high hills were (Hirccivcd to close in u)ion tho river, and as wo ad-anced to lie behind lis. Further on we reached an island. The right bank of the river was blocked up, so we chose the left. The channel of this river, at many spots, changes five times its width in the course of a single winter. Here, for instance, ^ ob- served the stakes of an old salmon weir muro than sixty feet inland, which had been used in a forme'- season. Khortly after this we were cheered by our first view of Mount Uaker, at a |K)int where the river divides into two forks. This seemed n favorable opportunity for calling a hall — oil the more so as here was established the mansion of Umptlnlum, the chief of ilic Nootsoks. Like many mightier kings he pos- sesses a winter and summer residence. The {lermanent encampment is a little below the forks, while the Nootsnk Versailles i* on an inl- and, whero his majesty may enjoy inniiinity from the mosquito race. Tlieso Nootsaks arc a distinct tribe from the Lummis, and differ consideiably in language, manners, and modes of life. They occupy the territory from the base of Mount Baker down to within five miles of the mouth of the Lummi. Like all inland tribes they subsist principally by tho chase, whereas the Lummis de)ieiid on fish and clams. Father Chirousc, who is so woll known in connection with tho Indian mission at TulAlip, and Mr. Finkboncr, suppose that they originally came OS a hunting jiarty from the Clallnm country to San Juan and .Shaw's Island, and thence they fought their way up to their present location, and that the original inhabitants of the Lummi district are extinct. They have a tradition that they are all descended from one original pair. Uraptlalura is a venei^ble-looking man, and ll.VXINU A CA^OE. /I 800 HAUPEns NKW MONTHLY MAOAZINK. I 1 I rT7fnT'!g''I!0Nf[TIT!^'^iTi;i;i!!:: :.•':: WIATIMO A IlLANKET. though somcwhnt sliort in stntnrc, looks every inch a chii-f. IIo is hcnign mid intelligent in aspect. Ilis snow-white Iniir wns parted in the middle and combed down beliind his earn. lie wore a tuft on his chin, and his comjdexion was tanned hy long exposure to the Run. Having paid our respects to him wo took into consider- ation our final approach to the mountain. We had here to choose between the three forks of the river. The north fork is a whitish stream, showing that it is glacier-fed. By this we could have gone forty miles further ; but owing to the numerous rapids in its upper part and the diffi- cult nature of the country beyond, as discovered on my first journey, it was rejected. The south fork, which emerges from a 8Ci|ueslcrcd leafy nook, looked very tempting. Its waters arc gentle and limpid until they mingle with the turbident main stream, and were suggestive of the peaceful current of youth before enroling upon the toils and trials of manhood. It prom- ised grateful repose after the ditliculties of our previous journey. It seemed as if upon its easy surface we would have a breathing space bcforv plunging into the desolate scenery around the base of the mountain. The south fork, liow- ever, would have led us out of the wny ; be- sides, Squock and Taluin recommended the yi) .v^_^^ 8(1. Tlip doiitl: ]uc»tcrcd leafy ItH watcri) arc linglo with the B gtiggestivo of )efore ent^.ing io(l. Itjirom- lirultic!) of our if upon it«ca«y ng space liofort- >ry aroiiiul the mlh fork, how- ' the wnv ; be- )minemleil the MOUNTAIN KKRING OX TIIK rACIFIC. m CHrTLALDM'* rALACI. middle fork, nllcging that a day 'a journey would bring »■ to the head of navigation, nnd that in the three davn' land travel be- tween that and the mow line we would find occaiional elk trailx, nnd reach a point where thoaaccnt wan more ensv. This was the route AsciMDiRO thk BArna. Vol. XXXIX.-N0. 881-&1 802 HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. .J> TIIK OArUF- chosen. Here wo leiivc the outskirts of civili- zation ; our path henceforward will he through a howling wilderness tenanted hy wild animals, through dense and trackless forests where the light of the snn never enters, across maddening torrents and precipitous rapids, and along over- hanging precipices. We have to deal with na- ture in her sternest aspects — torn and convulsed, at war with herself— bearing on her fiice the scars of conntleos ages of desoloting power, of the flood of the avalanche, and of the burning tempest. Starting next morning at ten our company was unexpectedly strengthened by one of Umpllalum's hnnteis. The toilsome fifteen miles beyond mndo ns not sorry to quit the river. We had first three heavy portages, and afterward twenty -seven riffles or rapids. Many hitches occurred, where the India^is go; out and lifted the canoc.< from the rocks on which they grounded. Our difficul- ties may be conceived when it is remembered that the river rises 28.5 feet for the fifteen miles. Hero we prepared for our land travel. Having taken out provisions for ten days, wo stowed the canoes and their contents in n "cache." Cut- ting down some young alders we fastened them across the trees to form a frame-work. On this the provisions and other ''iktas" were laid and covered with matting, while the canoes are thrust underneath. Care mast be taken that the frame-work is fastened upon young trees that will not sustain the weight of a bear. Having made our packs us light ns possible, we plunged into the forest along the bank of the river in order to reach a fmd some twelve miles up. With difficulty we made about a mile an hour, over fallen trees, under old logs, down steep ravine?, over high rough rocks, and through close-set jungle. After reeling under our packs, knocking ou>- feet against stones, und twisting our limb" among opposing obstacles, wc came at last to a spot on the bunk which we named "Camp Fatigue." Stratton gloriously signalized himself during this difficult march. From the elasticity of his spirits we all derived life and lUrencth. His motto seemed to be, ".Tog on, jog on ! snd merrflj- fiont the (tile— a; Your merrr heart i;ne« nil the daj, your sod tires In a mile — s." Aronnd the camp-fire he would gire ns :nany a yarn of mining life in California, which ever provoked uuecdotes f om Tennent. Wo need- MOUNTAINEERING ON THE PACIFIC. 803 -mi^ work. Ontliis " were laid and the canoeB nre I he taken that on yonng trees ight of a bear. ;ht as possible, ig the bank of lid «ome twelve : made about a under old logs, ough rocks, and !r reeling under ainft 8tones. und ng obstacles, we hnnk which we ntton gloriously difficult march. s we all derived eenied to be, I the sttle— a; xy, your sod tires give ns niany a nia, which ever i;nt. Wc need- ed these cheering influences, fur we hud no preparatory training, and our life in the canoe up the river ill-qualitied us for the hard journey through the bush with heavy packs on our backs. Future travelers will find "Camp Fa- tigue" where two gigantic pines spring up from one rdtjt, and a tributary joins the middle fork, which, being pure and limpid, was named by us "Cle.ar Water." On the morning of the 12th .(yigust we bade farewell to " Camp Fatigue," and kept along the bank of the river, the path being but n slight improvement on that of the previous day. Mr. Tennent called our atten- tion to a feni having a fibrous root, the young sprouts of which, if bruised, are good for wounds. We also observed a skunk-cabbage, a species of the tobacco plant, whortleberries, red elderberries, red huckleberries, blackberries, thimble-berries, partridge-berries, a specimen of the raimulus, a solitary thistle with a fibre as strong as Manilla hemp, and a wnter-doek, which opens first with a flower like the tulip, out of which afterward spring the loaves. We also observed the beautiful Adumtum pednlum or Canadian maidenhair, which seen en masse resembles the plumage of a bird, and in En- gland can only be cultivated in conservatories. But the most lovely plant we had yet seen was a kind of fungus which exactly resembled mod- eling in wax — both stem and flower being per- fectly white. It was about four feet in height, the stem being somewhat thick in proportion to the flower ; but unfortunately it turned per- fectly black when put in the collecting-case. About five o'clock we came to a brawling stream tumbling into the river which comes down from the Lincoln glacier. • We named it " Roaring River." The spot where we took up our quarters was in a grove of alders, and was named "Camp Doubtful," for htre the Indian guides were at fault. Fearing that we jnight get too much to the east of the mountain, we dispatched Squoek and Tiilum next morning to reconnoitre. I occupied myself meanwhile in making a sketch of the ciinip; Stratton, Ten- nent, and Ogilvy went ofV ))rospecting and geol- ogizing, and the remaining Indians crossed the fork. The Indians soon came back in great wrath, occasioned by the discovery of a piece of wood cut by un nxe. This trace of man in such a desolate and uninhabitable country deeply interested me, but had a violent effect I'UTT1^Q THBOCUU. 804 HAHPERS NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. ! ;i : ■ a: V '" -•- /■'"■,■ ■■■• ^'-<'' '■■-■;.- :^-^ ■ ■ - ■ 5 ^^^'l ;,i < *>|'i 1 ' n a "-^■.%. '.■:'^^- ^/■■- ^ '§' fi ■f 4^J 'M:. f 1 ^^■n:-U--^-" •• 1 1 V -"^ -- iS^^fr^SfSKB P^I^H^"^ iJ^lli pp.'^i^S ' )"». •^tV'J ' ~.^- .iiAiai'-~^-J^ ^k^- -*>!^i^^l^ F'^ B^4^^' • ^^1%^ r%i?^ ■ UAMP iKirurrci. on my savage companions. They explained that the Thompson Kiver Indians had evident- , ly been poaching on their hunting-ground. '■ They were all the more exasperated as the ! same had been done two years ago, when one was killed by the hunter who hnJ joined us at the forks. No lord in England guard.? his pre- 1 serve more jealously; no Highland laird could j be more irate against deer-stalking than was | this Slime Indian. Looking at the peculiarly I silent and harmless-looking hunter, we could i never have attributed to him such a violent j deed. By-and-by, Ogiivy, Tennent, and Strat- 1 ton came in and stated that the region was a { perfect chaos of rocks, thrown up in all conceiv- j able shapes and sizes, consisting principally of ! lava, cement, and sandstone — no granite nor' quartz, and no stratihed rocks — nothing but i loose gravel and dirt mixed with huge boulders, and every thing seeming to bo on the move when the heavy freshets come down from the I mountiiins. Stratton said that the river re- | sembled a mining stream rushing madly along, and as miuldy as the Yubu Uiver in California during the excitement; hut, though they tried several pans, did not get even a color — they did not expect it. They would as soon prospect in a haystack for gold ; for, so far as the indica- tions went, the "bed rock" must bo hundreds of feet below the surface. There wore very few berries, and not a bird to be seen. In fact, the country was never made for any thing but n lot of men from Maine with Collins"g best axes — two boxes to each man. The ('ay (lassoil by, and we were anxiously concerned in regard t" Sipuu'k and Talum ; but they returned late in the evening, and reported that they had reached a spot above the snow line by a path that was comparatively easy to find. They brought in a couple of marmots, which they demolished at supper. Wearied with fatigue my comjianions sought their blank- ets, and " left the world to darkness niul to me." Wakeful and anxious, my thoughts reverted to the events of our journey through this fur-off. silent wilderness, and anticipated the dangers of the desired victory over the defiant peak. The expectation of five years' solitude and ex- ile was about to be realized, or else delayed lui- til another season had wearily come round. The struggle maintained in the land of the stranger approached its iltfiioucment. Was I to stand a compieror upon the mountain summit, or return with the memory of defeat to beholil it from the shore of my island home ? Sleep at last came to my weary eyelids, but the stream of thought ran on. In a dream of the night I was wafted away to snowy ri nio." ghts reverted to iph this far-ofr. ed the danj;ors e defiant pealt. olitude and ex- cIbc delayed uii- y come round, he hind of the nent. Was I to iiintain siinnnil. lel'eat to hehohl onie ? Sleep ai but tlic 8treani n of the nijtht I es where falling under. In the enly awoke, and never be forgot- i in sleep around t, the night was he river, deafen- indcr in the Htill- ght that it had id (lay, through- 1 tne with awe. ;«s being madly 1 me an emblem )rablc will. i^iht we sfartoil early on the I3lh, and if our path was steep and full of toil we were cheered by noting our pro- gresM through the different zones of vegetation corresponding to the varied seasons. Passing from summer, u few bourn brought nn to the region of eternal snow. The camp behind us was I9IC feet above the sea level, as determ- ined by the aneroid. From that to 3'JOO feet was the temperate region, where berries were found and the salal plant. At this elevation ground vegetation ceased, although the hem- lock, the spruce, and the fir remained. Indeed, we here passed through a niagnilicent forest of tirs, extending as far as the eye could reach. They ran u]> a hundred feet without a limb, and on the northern sides were covered with moss. The indications showed us that the snow in winter reached eigh* feet above their base. We began to experience cold whenever we rested. The day was foggy, and the gloom, added to the labor of "packing," made it very dej isssing. As we continued up, the trees di- minished to half their size, and the ridge be- came narrower and narrower. In making our toilsome way up the steep the.se words of Car- lyle came vividly to mind : " Yes, to me also was given, if not Victory, yet the consciousness of liattle, and the rescrsevere therein while life or faculty is left. To me also, en- tangled in the enchanted forests, demon-peopled, doleful of sight and sove the sea level. We had intended to make our encamp- ment at the summit of this risite the Lincoln Peak ; but tuj fog increasing, and all being fatigued, wc halted and sent the Indians forward to look for water, having been in a state of extreme thirst for sev- eral hours. In half an hour they re|iorted the discovery of water. Wc followed up, 'ind found an admirable camping spot, where there was an oii''n space covered with grass and clumps of s, 1 balsiini firs. In one, of these cluin|is, where we found truces of the elk and the liear, there was a snug nook, sheltered all round, save an opening to the north. Across this we placed ft large ground-sheet that I had fortunately brought along, and lighted our fire within. This corner, which was only just large enough to accommodate the party, looked very jdeusant, and received the name of Camp Hope. But, alas ! the water of which the Indians had boast- ed provcil to be a muddy mixture from a marshy spot in the vicinity. Thirsty us we were, we could not drink it. After wailing a while the fog partially cleared, and we disj)atclicd the Indians down into the basin beneath us with every available jiot and pan ; and al a depth of 500 feet they found a stream fonned by the melting patches of snow. During this delay we were cheered by observing that the clearing of the fog had revealed two magnificent rocky peaks or "aiguilles," as they are termed in iSwitzerland, to which we gave the names of "Lincoln" and "Colfax." While walking around we saw large patches of Scotch heather and blue-bell still in bloom, and ]ilenty of lu- pins. The Indians having brought in the sup- plies of water, we had our tea made, and turned into our blankets, being, like Mohammed's cof- fin, between earth and heaven. In the night the noise of the falling avalanches frightened the Indians, and ever and anon they crossed themselves. Next day, 1 ."iih August, the fog was still dense ; so, acting on the proverb that we night go far- ther and fare worse than at Camp Hope, we remained there. Ogilvy, Tennent, and three Indians went out shooting, while Stratton and myself kept cam]), doing sundrv repairs, jiost- ing our diaries, etc. About five o'clock they returned, with four marmots, as they arc termed in Switzerland, but known in these jjarts ^y the name of ground-hog or wood-chuck. While sketching I often heard their squeak, and saw them lurking around. They are grayish in color, about IJ feet long, and have two long incisors in front of each jaw. The largest se- cured on this occasion weighed twenty pounds. They had also shot a species of rabbit. At the sight of the marmots Stratton undertork to be " chef de cuisine," and was busily engaged for an hour. I, who had been in ignorance of these operation.*, was invited to ])artakc of some "dog." I had heard of the Sandwich Island- ers being kunophngists, but never imagined that I should make my dinner ujioD "dog." The " dawg," as Stratton called it, was ])ronounced to be ex'-ellent. He had managed to get up a plcw, which was christened "Oodar de pocar." It was made all the more jiala'able by half a bottle of sauce, which with nuirvelous foresight he had pounced upon in Mrs. Kldridge's larder at Whatcom, and produced in triumph upon this occasion. It was consumed with a relish which none but hungry mountaineers can ex- jierience. On the morning of the Ifitli we found tl'fi fog had cleared away. The summit was now seen for the first time, lying to the north of the two peaks already nentioncd. I called my compan- ions, and directed their attention to the path I proposed to take. From this jioint it looked fearfully precipitous, and they doubtfully shook their head . Tl;ey followed up, however, uiid J 80G HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. TBS LUaoOLS A.1I> LrAX PEAKB. ■bortly aftenrard there waa presented a mag- nitirent view of the Red Kidce with it« glaciers cradled in its luno*, which greatly resembles in outline the " Aignilles Rimgc:!," is seen on (he norlh side of the Valley uf I'haniuunix. It i» separated from Mount Baker by a jiiiie-cov- ered ridge extending at a lower altitude, and disttant perliaps ten miles. In ita hollows are three small glaciers of the clacs termed by I'rofessor James Forbes '• secondary" or " ni- dimentary." As we nearcd the ice-ficld.« the ridge which we were keeping became broader, the trees tiecame dwarfed into shrubs, and in the "o{)cn" there were gentle slope* covered with groAS, and occasional patches of snow in the hollows. These grass-corered slopes were strewn with flowers. We found the lychnis of a Iteautiful red color. Although in Califomin it grows to the size of a solilier's c<looming around, the Kfindenr of the rocky peaks bhooling up into the deep Idne vault, svc nil woi Id- ly consideratiiius, all thoughts of self, and evoked involuntarA' exclaniatinns of praise. In rather less than two hours we reached our Inst encam|iment near the '•ne'vc'.'* The ridge was still covered with scattered Imlsuiii llrs o'' stunted growth. These extended half a lull;' further, and then suddenly feriiiiiuited iti a • The "iiijvii" Is the lemi (;lven hy geoloKltils to Ihnso viut reservoirs of coiisolldnted allow und ice round ftliovn the suow line surrouudlug the high peaks, aud which supply the );lacier8. I. ition.and nt first ». It WHS Siiii- of the scenery ily nssociatioiis. leii.'c forest, the rted witli recent ho «iUI dowers ir of the roeky > hhic vault, sol- in n teiii)ile not no n^ed of Sali- worslii|i. The nliove all woihl- sclf, and evoked nisc. t we rcnelied our c'.''* The ridge d halr^aiu lirH i>'' (led half a mil;' crniinated in a 1 by Keologlxla t" ,tf>(l onciw and Ici: xnidliiK the liii;U r«. MOUNTAINEERING ON THE PACIFIC. 807 80S HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. point. We raeamprd on a spot 705-1 t'vet higb, vbere the trees formed n semicircle HHUHi s fmaiX Tdcanic rock. The ground ma covered vith gns» and heather, and hIicI- lered br ibe lr(«« from the cold winds of the glacier*. To tbe suutheast is a vast snuw- field, jtretHiiag perhaps 20(K) feet henenth, and tenninating in a glacier. Below this gUcier. and oalj separated from it by " mo- raine^»,~ U a lovehr valley with open land cov- ered with graai and sheltered by pines. It wanted ooIt a ** chalet" or two, a flock of goats desrendiojc tbe hill-«ide, with the sound of tinkling taells, to make me believe that I was , in SwiuerUnd. Many valleys have I seen, but tbis was tbe bes* illusirarion of " Beauty sleep- ing in the lap of Terror." Away, thousands of feet above tbe $now-field, rose on every side black, jagged, splintered precipices. Of these tbe Lincoln Peak is from this |>oint of view the mo«i protninent. A little further cast is the Col£uc Peak, and Iteyond that, due east, is the (ammil itself. The ridge on which we were encamped b two miles in length ; it sweeps Snt roaad to the nonh, then to the east, in- tHMctiag aaother riJge running down from the Colfax Peak. These ridges are evidently the walk of an extinct crater, wiiose vast hol- low is itimc two miles in length bx*- about the same in width. At the ]Miint of intersection of the above-mentioned ridges, but beyond it (• Taut ield of neve tilling the intervening space)^ rtsef the grviat {>eak, entirely snow-cov- ered. Tbe day wa» tine, and so tiioroughly were we sheltered that the thermometer stooil at 80^ Fabrenbeit in the shade. It was only 9 A.X. when we arrived, and Ogiivy, who was a mightf banter, started to try his luck, and found a plaiwl^iii and a sjtecies of white grouse or mowT partridge. Tennent and Strntton went to tiT MMBe creepers (rram/ions) which had been made for tbe oocasin, being doubtful that they woold answer : they also reconnoitred the pro- posed roote. Tiier returned in high spirits froa their ;weliminary CK^ay, declaring that with tha tiunM-iiii they could walk up tiie slopes of HM>w aa Cnnly as on a hill-side. Next moming we started at I've, and about half past six came to the end of the ridge (about two mile*). Here wc put on our creepers and spiked boota. made several packs, and took pro- visioBA for tweoly-foi'- hours. In fact, we j)re- pared to pass tbe night out if need bo. The IndiaRi Inde ns farewell, and were observed to cross themselves and to utter prayers for our safety. Xo sconer bad wc launched forth than a dirisioa of (^linion took place. Acting on the old rale of the Alps, always to follow the "arete" when j'ractirable, I was for following a ridge wbirfa leads to the Colfax Peak. Mr. Stralian, with genuins Yankee "goalieadcd- nesa," and a happy ignorance of the dnngcrN of iimioahd crevasses or chasms and the fniil- tiea of •wnr-bridges, started on a track of his which be had marked out the previous day. Koc having spectacles, he adopted the custom of the Cascade range Indians when traveling on the snow, and blackened his face — particu- lurly around the eyes — with a piece of bumetl stick. Ho thus a|)peared very much like an Ethiopian serenader. Although alarmed for his safety 1 could not refrain from the mirth his appearance occasioned. I was also obliged to compromise with the others and descend on the snow. We then roped oiirselve.s together, and left the ridge, keeping 2.'> feet apart. We went up an elevated valley — (lostiibly an ex- tinct crater — filled with ne've, terminating in two glaciers. The first of these, which is dirty, and scarcely recognizable as a glacier, was named "Discovery." On the oppot>ite side of the valley is a ridge which lends directly to the summit. It looked so jiracticable that on the occasion of the jtrevious journey I at one time entertained the idea of trying it, but after sur- veying the vast extent of treacherous neve', in- tersected with numerous crevasses, which we shoiild have to traverse, thought, in the weak state of my forces, it would not be advisable to trust it ; and it was fortunate we did so, for on reaching the summit we observed that the ridge was covered on the other side with overhanging "seracs;"* and on leaving the mountain, as our route lay on that side, we coidd, with the aid of a glass, see that it looked very formida- ble. The ridge which joins the Colfax to the summit crosses llic head of fhis elevated val- ley. We made for this. The route lay through more than five miles of neve. This was inter- sected by twenty -seven "great crevasses." These were so close that sometimes they were not more than five yards apart. No sooner had wc crossed one than we could see another. Their depths dispinyed those beautiful colors will: wliii h Swiss travelers are so familiar. The lovely mazarine blue prevailed. We crossed them by the bridges formed by avalanches which had fallen in the spring and curly summer. We did not dare to trust these entirely, but. as a precautionary measure, kept fimdy attached to each other by the rope. On the occasion of my first attempt we came to a crevasse on a steep >ilope where the other side was two feet * Seraet.—" The immo of ' Serac' is given in our mouiitnins to a kind of white «nd compact cheei*, whicli is fcpftrnteil (mm the wher *oJ romprvoMHl iutgene»o»oe»», are as rcKUlar as if they had hecn rut with a chisel. One sees distinctly on the face of these great paralielopids the layers of snow accumulated from year to year, and passinK gradually from the state uf raow to that of ice, by the KMrcosslvc Inflltraiinn and cnncelaliun of the water of the rains and of that which rPMilts from the mellinK of the upper layer*."— Dr ^iianifr, i'uywje Uaim lai Aipa, vuL iv. ch. 2. MOUNTAINEERING ON THE PACIFIC. 809 hen traveling face — particu- fee e advisable to ' did CO, for on that the ridge h overhanging mountain, as oiild, witi) the verj- furmida- Colfax to the 9 elevated val- ite lay through Phis was inler- 'at crevasses." ime» they were 1. So sooner Id see another. leauliful colors familiar. The We crofseil alanches whicii ' summer. We ireiy, bnl, as a Illy attached to :he occasion of crevasse on a le was two feet ii given in our compact cbee aiate, if a ttick ids itMir upon a rays happens, t» that, in glidin!; arry, their weight 1 nearly rect«ii>,'u- every fide, and neooane**, are a.> Ih a cbiwl. One Teat paralielopida om year to year, :e of snow to ihiit and conirclatloii bat wlilrh re«iilt» m.'—Dt Hatuntrt, UUKVASSKS I» TIIK KKVk. higher than thnt on whirh wc stood. The dif- ficulty WHS formidiihle, but I iniide a leap, ice- iixc ill hand, with the pick pointed downward, so that I might easily anchor in the ;inow. As I made the »])ring Mr. Bennett pushed ine with his pole, and I managed to alight and catch on to the slope. Fixing myself firmly in the snow with the aid of my pole, Mr. Bennett made a leap, and at the same time I gave him a good tug with the rope, and he managed it also in safety. To avoid the avalanches descending from the Colfax Peak on the one hand, and friini the "Grant" or main peak on the other, we ke|)t on through the middle of this vast tract of ndve. Wo were in considerable anxiety con- cerning Stratton. Divested of ropo and with- out a pack, he had made rapid progress. At one time we saw him crossing a spot exposed to avalanches of ice, and shortly afterward were greatly alarmed to see him take a jump, and then siiddc y disappear, being lost to view bv projecting mosses of seracs. It aiijioiirs thi t he had fcrtimalely fallen in with the tracks tf a grizzly bear, and wisely coiicliiding that whht woidil bear its weight would sustain his also, he had followed it without hesitation across snow-bridges over the chasms. On the |>re- vious joimicy, about the same height, Mr. Ben- nett and myself observed the traces of a young elk followed by a wolf, and also the marks of blood where n scuffle had taken pl.ng thirst. Iluriiig Ht'ouped out il liiilu in thu Hiiuw and ]iliii'oil thuruin HOiiie do'liriM of rock for a iiiiit- (resH, lie c'hoKC tliiit tor his rcstiiiK-|diioc, while I iicrchud iiiysi'lf on ii iiurruw almtiiient uf rock. Sleep wiiH out of the ijuestion, for a.s soon as we dozed, (he cold compelled ux to arise ami experiment on the tlieory of T^n- dnll — " lleat as a mode of motion." IIuviuK now reached this spot, aliout D2G'> feet ahove tlie sea level, we foutui it necessary to refresh. OKil^y pounded some ice, and, with the aid of hraudy, made a cocktail ; it was very accepta- ble, aiul was christened the Mount Uaker (lock- fail. Its fame reached Victoria, where it was reproduced at one of the bars; and. aided by the e.\hibition of a veritalile piece of rock from the summit, attracted thirsty crowds. I had brought an alcuholic apparatus, which was filled with snow, and some tea prepared; fortified by this refreshment ami an hour's rest, we made for the top of the saddle by the northern nide of these rocks. Like gladiators of old, we pre- paied ourselves for the combat by divesting our.selves of every supertluous article of cloth- ing. The slope was steep, and there were cre- vasses immediately below. A single false stej) would probably have been fatal. The last three or four hundred feet of the route lies over a ileposit r:sembling mud; it was ipiite dry in parts and crackeil from the action of the sun. At length wo reached the top of the saddle and stood on the base of the priiu'ipal )ieak. Here we found Stratlon. who informed ns that, when dozing, a large eagle had swooped down upon him with murderous intention ; ho ImU succeeded in beuting it ot!' before it did hiin any injury. If wc had in- dulged any doubt of this being a volcanic mountain, it would have been dispelled by the smell of sulphurous exhalation which greeted us. So nauseous was it that Stratton had vomited while waiting for us. At this point the base proper of the peak may be said to commence. On our right, across a hollow tilled with "neve," is the lip of the crater, indicated by a huge triangular-shaped rock ; and on our left are tremendous preci- ]iices extending down to the track of "neve"' wc had traversed in the morning. Around the summit of the peak is a perpendicidar wall of ice about thirty or forty feet in height, termin- ated on the left or northern end by a knuckle of rock, which can be plainly seen from the Sound. The only passage wo could discern through this barrier is on the left, between the knuckle of rock before-mentioned ami the wall of ice. The face of the )>eak is scored with deep furrows, made by the avalanches of ice which have fallen from the summit. The peak rises about 1(K)0 feet higher. It commences with a gentle slope, and gradually becomes steeper, until near the summit it is about GO''. Hoping ourselves together, we now attempted this, and soon found it necessary to tise the axe. Some fresh snow had fallen, b\it had lupt had time to become consolidated with the ice be- neath, and could not be trusted. We had thus to cut steps. The axe was passed on to Strat- k, Lititulu i'«jik< TUB aOBNIOB. ^mmt 811 IIAKl'EU'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. ihlil TUE riNAL HTBUUULE. ton, who plieil it with vigor niul skill. While thus engii);c(l he got a great fright. Iliiving heard a dull, grating sound, ho looked u|i, and saw a mass of frozen snow, about twelve feet Hquaro, moving down toward him. I'arahzed with terror, he was about to warn us, when it fortunately stoiipcd. Even at tliis height there were crevasses. Into one of these Tennent sank, but he managed to extricate himself. The work of cutting the Blejis is very severe, and our j)rogress was necessarily slow, for some ;J50 required to he cut. When nearing the summit we saw the spot where Mr. Rennctt and myself were stopped on the previous attempt — on the right at the foot of the perpendicular wall. It will be perceived in the sketch on page HIO. Hero wc turned a little to the left, in order to make for tlic passage before spoken of; and in cutting a step Strattcm disclosed a little stream of water. The day was very warm, and our labor made us thirsty ; so the cup was joy- ously i)a8sed, and we nil had a refreshing drink. A>i precipices extended downward from our feet, a single false step would have been fatal. In safety, however, wc |>nssed the most dangerous point, and reached the passage, which, by a gen- tle a.scent of 30or40fect, brought us to the sum- mit. It was now ftmr o'clock. Wo had been two hours making this final climb. The jila- teau on which wc stood was about a quarter of a mile in diameter, and embraced an extent of about eighty acres. The scene was grand in the nakedness of its desolation. The white surface of snow was unrelieved by a single rock. The forests had been on fire for weeks, and a dense pnll of smoke veiled the surrounding scenery from our view. It lay like a reddish cloud beneath us. We felt cut otF from the world wc had left. Overhead the snn jioured down his bright beams from a sky which formed a dome of purplish blue, unsullied by a cloud. We felt at heaven's gate, and in the immedi- ate presence of the Almighty. My compan- ions, to whom for the first time this wonderful scenery was unfolded, were deeply impressed. The jemembrance of the dangers they had es- caped, the spectacle of the overwhelming deso- lation around, ert'ects of the terrible forces of MOUNTAINEKRING ON THK PACIFIC. 818 I % nntiirc which hiul been nt work, thnso I'oinliiiiftl uviiU'iiccN <>( AhiiiKlily ixiwcr lillcil ihcir heurtH with l.iteau that I have not ohserved in the Al|)s. In form it resembled small tongues of flame, all leaning in the same dirocti(M) yanls. As it was possi- ble that it might be a few feet higher, I proposed I that we should also pla.'t a Hag there. We ac- cordingly marched up to it, and (ilaced a thifr, naming it after General ShiTinaii. We found, however, that they were both of the same height — IO,(il;l feet. It may be mentioned that this height, determined by the aneroid, agrees sid)- stnntially with the trigonometrical nieasuro- mcnts iinide by Captain Lawsoii, of the United States surveying ship l-'ntinllnm/ (l(),H\ i feet), as nUb with those set down in the Ku^lish maps (namely, 10,0!U feet). The thermometer stood at 40' above zero, Fahrenheit. While making these observations with the barometer, and sketching the two peaks, my companions left lomake a reconnoissance. They approached the southern sidi! of the Sherman I'oak, and observing a vlighl depression von- tuieil down. Hero they got a glimpse of the crater. As far as they could make out it was about ;10() yards wide, anil api)earcil to exteiul under llio northeastern side of the Grant I'eak. It is tlierefore not impossible that the greater part of this jKjak may di.sappear in the next eruption. Stratton described the spectacle ns one that made him shudder — black walls of rock with streaks of sulphury yellow blending with green and red. No traces of fire were visible by daylight, but smoke was plainly observed. About MX) feet of the top of the crater on the Baker Kiver side is torn out, aiul here vast masses of lava Iimvr vnl'cd out — wave after he most dangerous i,e, which, by n gen- iight u!t to the suin- ck. Wo had been 1 climb. The ida- tibout a quarter of )raced an extent of cene was grand in ation. The white ed by a single rock. ire for weeks, and I'd the surrounding I lay like a reddish It cut off from the ead the sun poured a sky which formed isullied by a cloud, ind in the inimcdi- hty. My comiian- time this wonderful ! deejtly impressed, angers they had es- overwhclming deso- le terrible forces of OBAMTB TEAK— 1HK BDMlllT. 814 IIARPEK'S NFAV MONTHLY MAQAlOfX. i ■TVDIO IN TIIL MODNTAINS. wnvc ovcrlajniiiiK ciich ntlicr ns it cooled. Firo must still he slumbering bcnenth, ns there is no snow on (he Iftvn. My companions retnrned nhoiit five, nnil hnr- ricil me olf before I had an o))portiinity of in- specting it personally. Indeeil, as there was no time, unless we spent the night upon the summit, they concluded not to tell me of their good fortune. Before leaving, Stratton deposited a piece of copper with the names of the party at the flag on the Grant Peak. As a tnie knight-errant, bo also left there the photograph of a lady wlio had interested herself in the expedition. Harnessing ourselves together with the rope, we prepared to desccnoint blanket, I im- provised n very convenient sketching tent. I MOUNTAINEERING ON THE PACIFIC. Bin -A III ^itii «*fv«< ;s of the morninp. 1 niid serncs flroniul ^ routp. ("iillitiK n 1. We resolved to irks were ngain ilis- lilijjlit the fiiot on P(l ever to reccile. 1(1 fiiin linve iimdo lilt my comjinnions o'clock we renchcd re wo lind tnken to Leaving there onr ck np in the morn- icanipmcnt. Stiim- I n» well 118 we could tns very flow. As otit, when the In- At length about 11 Indiims wore over- inctions of Uniptln- [ions the honest fel- nnxiely on onr no- de, and in flowing ventnies to the In- turned in than the d nionned and blew le coming tempest, tnmed round i:i our hat we were not on (I to botanizing and m, and, with the aid |K)int blanket, I im- sketching tent. I \ have not taken nut n patent, and it ii here pre- sonlod to the world. Ogilvy, Strntion, and Tennent were nnxiouii to return to their several duties ; our provisions were also running short, the hunter on whom we depended being either very lazy, or game very scarce. Sn, resolving cm t«o meals a day, we started next morning at 4 a.m., in order to have three hours' work before breakfast. We also shortened our route by crossing on to an- other ridge, which would bring us to our tirst encampment after leaving the "cache." By breakfast-time wo rencheil a boautifid grass- covered vnlley, encircled with lirs, save on one side, where a gap disclosen a small peak with one solitary patch of snow upon it, like an un- welcome intruder upon a festive party. This valley is erossed by two streams, the hanks i>{ which are covei d with lovely pink and yellow flowers (n kind .,f mimiihis). As we sat at breakfast, drinking in the loveliness of the iMie, we proposed to call it "The llapjiy Valley." lint just then our old enemies, the mosriuitoes, found UB out, and made us beat a precipitate retreat. A deer crossed our track, and III rried olf, not without a shot from Ogilvy's gun as a parting memento. We passed through levcral good-sized valleys having plentifid wa- ter and grass. All at once we eamo ujion one of Sipiock's country shooiiug-boxes. It may be mentioned that when the Indians kill an elk lliey dispatch n messenger to summon their wives and relatives to assist in dressing and drying the meat, and to pack it down to their lodges. This is tpiite necessary, as there are often t)()0 pounds of meat on an elk. In cook- ing the meat they first dig a hole in the ground, then build a wood-lire, placing stones on the top of it. As it b\irns the stones become hot and fall down. Moss and leaves are then placed on the top of the hot stones, the Tieat is placed on these, and another layer of moss and leaves laid above it. Water is poured in, which is speedily converted into steam. This is re- tained by mats carefidly placed over the heap. When left in this way for a night the meat is found tender and well cooked in the morning. We had now emerged from the temperate into the summer zone. The hardest part of our work was now over. The consciousness of near approach to the blest abodes of man, con- trasted with the stern and savage scenery we had left, filled us with a sense of Joyous triumph. The grand scenery of the forests became glori- fied, the soft tempered light stole in through the overarching foliage, tiiniitig the mossy car- pet to gold, and the sunbeams falling athwart the gigantic stems, row after row, made them appear like the columned ni«lcs of a cathedral. We were in a grander i-ir than any earthly tem- ple, whoso dome was the blue vault of heaven, and whoso chant of praise was the symphony of falling waters. After a sojourn among the more elevated snow-fields, the return to the fer- tility and plenty of the lower valleys is refresh- ing in the highest degree. The sudden change from eternal winter to the beauty of ipritiK, from spring to summer, from the abodei of overwheluiing chaos to fairer scenes, from death, as it were, unto life, is inexpressibly soolhiiift to the overwrought mind and body. No longer at war with the terrible forces of nature, softer emotions take possession of the breast, and the wearied traveler yields himself up to "the be- nignant touch of love and beauty." 'i'hese emo- tions are realized in a highei degree by the trav- eler who has escapcil for a little while from the weary round of life's harassing cares and daily duties. I had left Victoria jaded and dc|)resscd, sick flf the monotonous round of my ordinary occupation, harassed by the multiplicity of petty details and preparatory arrangements I'diinccted with this expeditics of the kneeling worshipers on the op]X)sito walls. This gave a weird as- ' pect to the scene. Their profound attention to the service, their immobility, the measured chanting, the sudden and regular pauses for the responses, the gentler voices of the women min- gling witli the sterner tones of the men, the con- comitants of wild scenery and savage men, the consciousness that I was the only white man among them and completely at their mercy — all combined to render the sccvie impressive in the highest degree, "and civilized civilization's son." Next morning we took ar. affectionate fare- well with the ohi ^bief, and joyous sped our way. If the journey up had been slow and tedious, we received compensation in tlie re- turn. The current bore the canoes swiftly along, and brought a fresh picture to view at every bend of the river. Iideed, we had all the excitement of traveling by express, while sitting in dreamy and indolent repose, each occupied with thoughts of home and friends. Stifl'ened with fatigue, we unwillingly aroused ourselves occasionall;- to make a portage. While the Indians stopped at one of the en- campments for a " wah-wah" with their friends, Stratton bought a young beaver. It was very beautiful, and became a great i)et. In the af- ternoon we set down Mr. Tennent, and reached Itelllngham Bay at sunset. We tried to make Mr. Eldridge's the same evening, but it blew so hard that we had to stop half-way, where Mr. Allen hospitably entertained us. Next morn- ing wc got to Mr. Eldridge's in time for break- fast, where we were received in triumph by his family. A large party of ladies w'.o were en- joying Mr. Eldridge's hospitality took posses- sion of .Stratton as a genuine hen>, while Ogilvy and myself went on to Mr. Meyer's at Seuhome. There I opened communication with the great worhl beyond through the telegraph, aiul the account of our ex|>ediiion Bi)peared shortly aft- erward in the New Y'ork Herald and other pa- pers. After a few days spent at Seaborne making sketches and arranging notes — Ogilvy having gone on to Victoiia — I went on board the little MOUNTAIXEEUING ON THE PACIFIC. 817 lis for the most part Huarter of iiii hour, tlie first o|ii)ortiini- jttini from the diin- lU need not kuv that ces nindc it jmrticu- cciisioi'. of retiiniiriR IS deejilv iniprt'ssed jrsliip. I hiul for- t at n large finhing n. Seated in the ten from one of the aceful manner that city drawing-room. V all kneeled down, lis, and engaged in i of the fire reflected Jge, and cast gaunt kneeling worshipers lis gave a weird as- profound attention l»ility, the measured ;gular ])aiiBes for the s of the women min- of tlie men, the oon- md savage men, the the oidy while man ;ly at their mercy — (•cciie inipres>ivc in ivilized civilization's an affectionate fare- iril joyous sped our had been slow and [lensation in tlie re- tlie canoes swiftly ]iicture to view at I'ldeed, we had all ig hy express, while lolent rejiose, each home and friends, unwillingly aroused make a ])ortage. il at one of the en- w itli tlieir friends, leaver. It was very eat )iet. In the af- 'ennent, and reached We tried to make cuing, but it blew so half-way, where Air. cd us. Next morn- 's ill time for break- cd in triumph by his ladies w'io were en- pilality took Jiosses- hen), while Ogilvy Mover's at Seahoine. aiioii with the great ich'graph, and the iplicared shortly aft- ald and other pa- nt Sealiomo making Dies — Ogilvy having It on board the little I steamer Kmi/i/ Woodruff'''- In tiie afternoon the steamer reached (^oiipervillc on Whidhey Island, I accepted an invitation from Major llallcr, who was formerly oi. .lie staff of Gen- eral M'Clellan, in the Army of the Potomac, and thus I had the o|)poitunity of a peep into a Yankee home. Wliidhey Island, which takes its name from Lieutenant Whidbey, Vancou- ver's sailing-master, is in many respects inter- esting. It is about fifty miles long, and of ve* unequal width — about ten miles across in ;' e broadest part, according to Vancouver It coiitains fine prairie lands and beautiful arms. Indeed, it has been called the garden of Wash- ington Territory. Already there are the indi- cations of a high state of cultivation, and there is a considerable quantity of stock ranging over the hills. The winters not being severe, these require little or no stall-feeding. The popula- tion has already reached some .si.\ hundred. Among these the temperance cause is firmly established. On the celebration of the Fourth of July two yei re ago Uncle Sam's heal'h was drunk in no stronger beverage than tea and coftee. On a coast where, in common with all new countries, so much drinking prevails, it is a pleasing sjicctacle to see a community thus placing itsel' in liie v.i:? of civilization, and set- ting an example to others. The young ladies of this islaiiil have the reputation of being ac- compli: hei'. a. id fearles'j horsewomen, and there are simic "'hj c.;ri evea handle the rifle. Diana of old ha 1 no f:''rer fields for huntiug, and no fairer fur i" for followers. Making my way to the ferry on the other side of the isl iihl, we went on board a sm:'ll boat and reiH'hod Port Townsend within two hours. This town is the port of entry for Paget Sound. It is built on a spil at the entram-c of this noble sheet of waloi, and the heights behind are dotted with villas which command n agnificent 'lews if Mo'int Kaktr, Mount Rainier, r.nd a large portion of the (^.iscade range. On the last Fourth of July T had here spent one of the most pleasant days of my existence. On that occa- sion Admiral Tliatjher, who bad arrived in the J\nsiicii/tt at Esqiiimalt, determined to cross over anil assist his countrymen to celebrate the day. Heiiig one of a )iarty of excursionists from Vic- toria who went over to witness the festivities, wc had "a good time." A pv.'cession was formed of the officers, seamen, masonic lodge, citizens, and the excursionists, the latter headed hy Allen Francis, Esq., United States Consul at Victoria. We marched through the town up to the hill, when; a collation was spread for 4()() under tlic shade of spreading jiiiies on a beautiful liiwn. S. S. Garlielde, Esq., was the orator of tlie ''.ay, and gave one of the best speeches it was ever mv privilege to listen to. The American Gov- ernment apparently recognize this as an im- portant jioint, and propose to erect three for- tresses in the neighborhood whi- •' will com- mand the entrance to Paget Sound, destined soon to bo covered with tlie fleets of the com- Voi.. XXXIX.— No. e34.-5» mereial world. I now became the guest of Caiitain Scainmon, in command of the revenue cutter Joseph Lane. I also enjoyed the grace- ful hospitalities of Jlr. Barnard, the Deputy Collector, and I must here correct a common error in regard to the rudeness of Western civil- ization. In his house I found a circle which, though small, was refined and intelligent as any to be met with in the greater centres of the world's society. I had also the opportunity of receiving similar kindness from Dr. Calhoun, a graduate of Glasgow Medical School, and at present in charge of the Marine Hospital, who had hssembled an agreeable company to testify their appreciation of my labors. Indeed, I have ventured the previous statement in regard to the society of Washington Territory upon the experience of all whom I met on this and pre- vious journeys. The names of M.. (branny of Utsalady, Mr. Kennedy, Colonel Hobbs, Mr. Wilson, Mr. Seabey, Captain Lawson of the United States Survey, Mr. J. G. Swan, and others can not be forgotten by one who was a stranger among them. Captain Scammon, hav- ing to repair to Victoria, was authorized by Mr. Wilson, the Collector, to convey me thither. On the way we touclied at Protection Island, so highly eulogized by Vancouver for the beauty of its scenery. Here he landed on the 1st May, 1792, and thus speaks of it: "On land- ing on the west end of the supposed island, and ascending its eminence, which was a nearly per- pendicular cliff, our attention was immediately called to a landscape almost as enchantingly beautiful ns the most elegantly finished pleasure- grounds in Euro))e. From the height we wore now upon, our conjectures of this land being an island situated before an entrance on the main land were confirmed. The summit of this isl- and presented nearly a horizontal surface, inter- spersed with some inequalities of ground, which produced a beautiful variety on an extensive lawn covered with luxuriant grass, and diversi- 1 fied with an abimdance of flowers. To the I northwestward was a coppice of pine-trees and ! shrubs of various sorts, that seemed as if it had been jdanted for the sole pur,)Ose of protecting from the northwest winds this delightful mead- ow, over which were promiscuously scattered a few clumps of trees, that would have puzzled the most ingenious designer of jdeasure-grounds to have nrranged more agreeably. While we stojiped to contemplate these several beauties of nature, in a prospect no less pleading than unex]iected, we gathered some gooseberries and roses in a state of considerable forwardness." It still ))resents the same featurcF,, though barren and sandy in some part.s, owing to the introduction of sheep. It is now occupied by Captain .Morgan and Jlr. Harnard. I,ike the Highland chiefs of old. they arc monarchs here of all tliey survey. Having ]'ai('. my respects to the chief and his lady, we took advantage of a fair wind and in due season arrived at Victoria.