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iOiiii 
 

 A TRIP 
 
 TO 
 
 ALASKA: 
 
 BEING 
 
 R REPORT OF R LECTURE 
 
 Given, loiih Stereopticon /Ihis'-otioiis, 
 
 BY 
 
 MR. C. C. HINB, 
 
 ElllTOB OF THE "IM8UKANCK MONITOR,' NkW YoHK, 
 
 BEFORK THE- 
 
 Fire liiiderwritei's' 
 
 of tlie M\m± 
 
 At the Tic'cnfirt/i Annua/ Aftrfinn;, in C/iicai^o, 
 September rjtiu iSSi). 
 
 [COPIED FROM THE PROCEEDINGS.] 
 
 MILWAUKEE: 
 
 KiN<i, Fowls & Co., Hhintkkh, 
 
 18«!l. 
 

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 • J^HK twentieth anniversary was rej^arded asasomewliat festive 
 occasion, and the Association thought it wise to have an evenin^^'s 
 entertainment altogether freed from shop-talk, and Mr. Hine, of 
 the Monitor, was invited to tell the members about his Alaska tour, 
 and to show them the numerous pictures which he had secured 
 in that far-away region. With the aid of a fine .stereopticon this 
 was done, and the patriarch exhibited about one hundred and 
 thirt)' views and spoke for two hours and more to an audience 
 which listened with silent attention, except when they signified 
 their approval of some particular picture with a round of ap- 
 plause. No attempt was made to secure a stenographic report 
 of the lecture, but this was in sub.stance and in part what Mr. 
 Hine saitl ; 
 
 W'c shipped for .\laska at Seattle on tlie good steamer "(leo. \V. 
 Kldcr," ('apt. J.C. Hunter, on the 17th of July a year ago, a comjjany 
 of a hundred and fifteen men, women and children, bent on enjoying 
 the tri]) and getting out of it all that ii would yield — and we succeeded. 
 Jn a galliering of that size it is not an uncommon thing to find a quota 
 of grumblers, and kickers, and fault-finders, hut we were exceptionally 
 fortunate, for there did not seem to be a single conspirator against the 
 public peace on board the vessel. Our captain was kindness itself, 
 
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 i>honrmu-iial for ih-t raiiiy country. Our of 
 
 lif t»-ft». fiftfen « ., fair and many of 
 
 lie Glaciers wj- hati some 
 
 >«» wt.s aB that cottW Ih5 
 
 .11 nracin/'. thv wootM ^Vr 
 
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 and the weather was phenomenal for that rainy country. (Jut of 
 seventeen clays consumed on the trip, fifteen were fair and many of 
 them were sunny. W'liile we were at the Olaciers we had some 
 cold winds, but most of the time th-.' weather was all that could be 
 desired. The water was smooth, the air bracing, the wooded hills 
 along the shore and the snow mountains inland were constantly in 
 sight, and we sailed in a panorama of beauty all the time, and in one 
 of grander much of the time, from the hour we left the Seattle wharf 
 until the hour when we moored at it again seventeen days later. 
 
 1 will not stoj) to tell you about Puget Sound and the thriving cities 
 of Tacoma, Seattle, Port Townsend, Victoria, etc., whose growing 
 commerce is rajiidly r.'iving life to those beautiful waters, but, leaving 
 the Sound, over which magnificent old snow-crowned Mt. liaker 
 stands guard, we will sail along the shores of A'ancouver Island in the 
 ■.vaters of the deorgian (lulf, stoj) at Nanimo for coal, and then s])eed 
 away six hundred miles or more along the coast of British Columbia 
 until we touch American soil again in Alaska, stop to let off mails and 
 freight at Loring, and then run across into Kasaan May, where we 
 make our first stop of any considerable moment. 
 
 15("fore we proceed further, let us look at a maj) and obs^^rve the 
 thousiuuls of islands (if any one should tell me there were ten thou- 
 sand of them I should be prepared to believe him; they have never 
 been counted) which make this route an inside one, so that we sail 
 through waters that seem like the Hudson River or Long Islanil 
 Sounii. Sometimes we were in narrow reaches where a pistol-shot 
 would strike the shore on either side ; sometimes the wati?r widened 
 out so that we seemed to be in a beautiful inland lake; always the 
 water was still, and often it was glassy, reflecting with mirror-like 
 fidelity the wooded hills that lined it. We traveled, going and com- 
 ing, J, 500 mile^^ on the waters of the Pacific Ocean, and we never lost 
 a meal or suffered a single ijualm of sea-sickness. ( )h I it was a land- 
 lubl)er"s paradise in which to go to sea. One of josh hillings' san- 
 
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^' 
 
 ALASKA, ILLUSTRATED. 9 
 
 itary regulations runs, I think, suinctiiing like this: "If you're com- 
 pelled to travel afore breakfast, git some breakfast afore you go," and 
 I paraphrase this good advice to all landsmen : If you are com- 
 pelled to travel on the ocean, always take the inside route. 
 
 We sailed between these islands and the mainland going and 
 coming, and if there could be such a thing as a surfeit of the 
 picturescjue we had ample opportunity to experience it. After touch- 
 ing at Loring and Kasaan, we stopped at Wrangel, where the totem 
 posts are; at Juneau, where the Yukon miners start into the interior; 
 at Douglass Island, where the great 'I'readwell gold mine is located ; 
 at Killesnoo, at New Metlakahtla, and at Tongas. We sjjent a day at 
 the great Muir (ilacier, we visited Sitka, went uj) to Pyramid Harbor 
 in the Chilcat country, and then retraced our way, sometimes passing 
 through the same waters, at other times seeing new beauties as we 
 struck a different route. 
 
 The resources of the country are few, but those few are large. All 
 the coast line is covered with timber, and the 2,500 miles are multi- 
 l)lied many times by the lines of shore created by the innumerable 
 islands. The warm Ja])an current which tones the tem])erature of all 
 that coast, brings with it the most abundant moisture, which is pre- 
 cipitated in rain as it strikes the coast range mountains. One result 
 is a redundant vegetation ; tiie ground is covered with vines, and 
 mosses, anil ferns, and these art constantly soaked like a universal 
 sponge, so that fire cannot travel through them, and although the 
 forests of Fuget Sound appear to be burning cf)ntinual!y in one direc- 
 tion or another, those of the fiir north have never l)een devastated by 
 fire, and api)arently that catastrophe is impossible. Just what an inves- 
 tigation of the interior might reveal I am not ])repared to say, but to 
 the casual observer there appears to be timl)er enough in that region 
 to last the whole country for ages, until the forests of Maine, Michigan 
 and Wisconsin shall grow again. The trans|^ortation question is of 
 
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I 
 
 ALASKA, ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 10 
 
 course an important one, but that will adjust itself when the necessity 
 arises for using Alaska lumber in the States. 
 
 All along the Alaskan shores canneries have been established, 
 and an immense product of canned salmon is sent down every year 
 for domestic and export use. I will say something more in detail 
 about these canneries further along. The cod-fish l>anks of .Alaska 
 contain a source of undeveloped wealth from which we shall doubtless 
 hear large results in the future ; the}' are estimated to be more than 
 four times greater in area than those of Newfoundland ; and the hali- 
 but fisheries are reputed to be jiroportionaily extensive. Kvery now 
 and then we would see a whale s[)outing at a little distance as we sailed 
 along, and here and there a lonely .seal would go swimming by, but 
 we did not go within a good many hundred miles of the famous seal 
 islands, and so I can say nothing from personal observation in regard 
 to the production of furs therefrom. 
 
 The mineral resources of .\laska are as yet pretty much confined to 
 the gold mines, the only one of which we visited was tiie famous 
 Treadwell mine on Douglass Island. This is a large and well-equipped 
 concern ; it is said to have the biggest stam])-mill in the world, and I 
 think it highl\- i)robable that the a.ssumption is a correct one. We 
 spent part of a day examining the ijremises, penetrating the mine and 
 looking at the operation of reducing the ore. Nobody will give any 
 figures to outsiders in regard to the output, but from the (juietness of 
 parties interested it is safe to conclude that the mine is a very rich and 
 profitable one. Douglass Island, on which it is located, is said to be a 
 mountain of gold ore ten miles long by one-half as wide, and other 
 mines will doubtle.ss be in ojjcration there ere long. 
 
 Our stop at the Kasaan fishing village was brief, l)ut full of interest. 
 It was the first native settlement that we had had an opportunity to 
 inspect, and the passengers scattered in e\ery direction looking for 
 souvenirs, which were purchased from the natives in the form of carved 
 horn spoons, bangles, baskets, furs, etc. There is a cannerv here. 
 
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 h a^JiHrared IQ be doing a tliriving l)iismcss. One of the celebritifs 
 illage )H old Paul Jones, known formerly as a famous Indian 
 
 • ihaj.s I >houi.l >:iy pirate, who lost both his eyes tliirty 
 .■ . 1 has lived in «krkness ever sime. He says he lost his 
 
 ■ ount of the sn)a!l-pox, but the bid scamp has not a pock- 
 '■' ir,. and another story which was related concerning him 
 
 iijurc iragic and quite as probatilc, and so I prefer to adopt it- 
 
 its that' years ago while pretendini: ' ' ot vessels through 
 
 I" iter» he wrecked two of il'^ '■> i' 
 
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 'i^ dUii photographing .1 nLHaH,j. ■> • 
 iRtcas of •'-:■;?■ devices. A largr yrini.' 
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 whii h ai)iJt-;irf(l lobe iloing ;i thriving business. One of the celebrities 
 ot" the village is old I'aiil Jones, known formerly as a famous Indian 
 pilot, or perhajis 1 should say pirate, who lost both his eyes thirty 
 years ago and has lived in darkness ever since. He says he lost his 
 sight on account (jf the small-jjox, but the old scamp has not a pock- 
 mark on him, and another story which was related concerning him 
 was far more tragic and (piite as probable, and so 1 |)refer to adojil it. 
 It seems that years ago while pretending to pilot vessels through 
 .-Vlaskan waters he wrecked two of them for plunder. I'lu' sailors on 
 board the second one detected him in his villainy, caught him, tied 
 him and gouged his eyes out of his head, remarking to him in lan- 
 guage more forcible than cultured, that he would not wre( k any more 
 Alaska vessels very soon. 
 
 The true village of K.asaan is inland a few miles. We did not visit 
 it, but it was the scene of the operations of a notable "Id Russian 
 smuggler named Haronovich, of whom many stories are told, whose 
 ojierations were con<lucted so secretly as to defy det'.-ction by the 
 government officers, who would visit his ])lace and be received with 
 open hos])itality and a free invitation to search to their heart's content. 
 .After they had scoured the whole region and found nothing, Baronovich 
 would invite them to dinner and before they got through would set a 
 bottle of smuggled wine or licjuor in front of each man I 
 
 Sailing away from Kasaan through the l)eautiful bay of the same 
 name, we passed the house of an old chief on the shore, and there 
 had our first sight of a totem post. .\t W'rangel the next day we had 
 the pleasure of examining and photographing a number of well-carved 
 and well-preserved specimens of these devices. .\ large yellow cedar 
 tree is used, and on this, from top to bottom, are carved conventional 
 figures illustrative of the crests and family history of the owners. 
 Two of these posts, standing in front of an old chief's place (whose 
 former house has been pulled down and who now is building a new 
 abode, " Host(m fashion," with hij) roof and bay windows), were the 
 
 
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 tmest specimens in Wrao^ni 
 lie totem of his wife, and £i 
 i rows, cftgks, tVo<>;s. lieuvct- 
 ,>hotograp'^ !- liic )iuili".> toii ' 
 loi^ped '• Kili hnt : it- 
 
 his crest, i.^ v .lu; (;,.•• . 
 HI eagle, w hich is i: ■ 
 
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 ■|"he- totem ;it uu icis 
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 .urs to the eyt; oi a 
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 >*Hi4 l>e tsTjdrr;-! ■ ■ 
 
 \ jfv'i»a( deal that i.-. tni, 
 ■■;■' '■.mit \ie [>roperly ustfi 
 ■ ■•■'TV of fhc*;e people, ii-ti|^--. 
 . \n\\'\\ ■ > ilk that tW •'■•■• ■ 
 ire ige of tweK< 
 
 heir> they become, nfni i 
 either, and as inlermftrriAjjc t* 
 
 fheiiviei' 
 • tijcts. Arrangements wHni# 
 ' !it of family wealth 
 
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 ALASKA, ILL USTRA TED. 
 
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 finest specimens in Wrangel. One wis his own totem and the other 
 the totem of his wife, and they were covered with figures of alleged 
 crows, eagles, frogs, beavers, etc. The one shown at the right of the 
 photograj)!! is the man's totem, and is surmounted by his own image, 
 topped off by a tall hat ; next lielow is the crow which ai)])ears to be 
 his crest, next the figure of a child, then some frogs, and at thL. base 
 an eagle, which is the crest or great totem of the man's mother. I am 
 not altogether sure that I have got the nomenclature just right, 
 because 1 think a nian's crest is the same as his mother's, and this one 
 appears to start out with the crow, which is the highest caste among 
 the native Alaskans, while his mother's seems to be an eagle. 
 
 The totem at the left is su])posed to be that of the wife of this chief, 
 and begins with the eagle, which is the crest of her family ; next below 
 comes the figure of a child, then a beaver, then a frog, then an eagle, 
 and at the base more frogs, all of which rei)resent the genealogy of 
 the wife. .Ml the.se figures are conventional, and while they are mere 
 monsters to the eye of a stranger, they are as readily recognizable 
 aiTiong the .Alaskans, who understand them, as our heraldic figures 
 would be understood by e\i)erts among us. 
 
 A great deal that is interesting ( oncerning the home life (if that 
 term can be properly used in connection with the Indians) and the 
 folk-lore of these people, might be introduced if there were time. I 
 will simply remark that the boys, instead of being raised by their ])ar- 
 ents, are at the age of twelve or thirteen years given to their uncles, 
 whose heirs they become, and I think they always go to the family of 
 the mother, and as intermarriages are common among ditil'erent tribes 
 or castes, one singular result of these arrangements is that father and 
 son sometimes find themselves on ojiposite sides in the tribal (juarrels 
 and contlie ts. .Arrangements wliith are strange to us, also occur in 
 the descent of family wealth. .\ lioy does not inherit his father's 
 goods, they go to the ne])hews. while his own sons receive the legacies 
 
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 ALASKA, ILL I STRA TED. 
 
 13 
 
 of their uncles, and, as remarked, 1 think these "uncles" are always 
 the mothers' sisters' husbands ! 
 
 There appear to he three kinds of totems — the heraldic, about 
 "'hich I have just been speaking ; the historical, which would answer 
 in some sense to our own monumental structures, recoriling as they 
 do events in the history of a tribe ; and tlie monumental or memorial, 
 which are erected upon the graves. One notable example of this 
 last sort is exhibited in one of the i)ictures, which crudely represents a 
 wolf carved from a large cedar log. 
 
 The totem is also sometimes eloiiuent in the way of caricature, 
 and its use in this direction is illusfated by an incident which was 
 related to me by Sheldon Jackson, of Sitka. An old hulian chief had 
 been down to \'ictoria on a trading excursion, and had imbibed too 
 freely of the white man's fire-water; the consecpience was that he 
 became roaring drunk and created a disturbance, and was brought uj) 
 before the magistrate, who sentenced him to a fine and imprisonment. 
 This was a degradation to the old chief, and on his return home he 
 " got even " with the judge by carving a totem which represented the 
 magistrate in some contemptuous way or other, which he and his 
 fellow Inilians coukl understand, and which to them was a genuine 
 humiliation of the judge ami an adeipiate revenge for the old chief. 
 I su])i>ose that the same kind of idea must obtain in i onnection with 
 this sort of i)roceeding as that whs h we formerly associated with 
 burning in effigy. While a man cannot really be damaged in soul, 
 body or estate by burning him in efiigy, yet there inheres in the 
 l)opular mind in connection with a man so treated a sense of humilia- 
 tion and injury. 
 
 Mr. Hine then proceeded to show a number of pictures illustrating 
 the general scenery of the coast, calling i)articular attention to the 
 wooded character of the hills and the rank growth of vegetation 
 resulting from the excessive rain-fall. To those of us who are accus- 
 tomed to think of .\laska as an arctic region, these pictures were a 
 
1 1- i 
 

 ALASKA, ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 14 
 
 great surprise, revealing as they did an exuberance of foliage which 
 one would scarcely expect to find outside the tropics. 
 
 Without any attempt at geograjihical seijuence, i)ictures were 
 exhibited giving views along the coast. The visit to Juneau was inter- 
 esting, as that town is a de]jot for the miners who enter the upper 
 Yukon country, and contains a number of stores where furs can be 
 purchased and other articles secured as scnivenirs of an Alaskan visit. 
 (ireat (juantities of garnets are ofiered by the Indians, and a handful 
 can be bought for a dime. Specimens embedded in the rock in which 
 they are found were interesting, and a great many of these were 
 secured by the passengers of the '• Klder." 
 
 Douglass Island is just across a mile- wide of water from Juneau, 
 where the great Treadwell gold mine, before alluded to, is located. 
 Having experienced much difiiculty in getting jjictures of the foces of 
 .\laska women, a little strategy \\ as resorted to at this point. Wherever 
 a steamer lands the women come out with their merchandise, bas- 
 kets, bangles, furs, etc., and sit on the ground with their backs to 
 the sun and their goods spreail out in front of them for sale. They 
 have already become fomiliar with the tourist's camera, and when any- 
 one undertakes to set u]) a tripod in front of them the\ turn away, or 
 run away, or jjull their blankets over their heads. There appears to 
 be an idea among them that in having their pictures taken they lose 
 something of vitality, or of life, or of something else, noboily knows 
 what, but an ill-dehned, intangible notion of hurt or loss apjiears to be 
 as.sociated in their minds with the camera. However, the little harm- 
 less-looking detective which 1 carried resembled a satchel as much as 
 anything else and excited no susjjicion, and whenever 1 found a group 
 facing the sun I could manage to get a picture very readily. On the 
 wharf at Douglass Island a great number of these women were seated, 
 l)Ut their faces were all away from the light. As 1 tame along the 
 wharf I sat down on the railing at a proper distance, and after the 
 instrument was focu.sed and all ready for its instantaneous snap, I 
 
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 opportune in.-itJtt 
 .sf( iired with thi 
 p<)int> more or It 
 of those nali\. 
 in a numljer ■ 
 
 A I JuncaLkw 
 
 Isom a girl wt 
 
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 uith palaver whii 
 
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 tiiiwn luxury «»» 
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A /.ASK. I. I I.I. I SI N.I ir.D. 
 
 16 
 
 streamed at the toj. of my voire. ( )f course everylHxIy turned around 
 to see what the matter was, bringing their faces to the sun, and at the 
 ojiportune instant the little instrument clicked and a picture was 
 se( ured wi' h the faces of a dozen women plainly visible. At other 
 points more or less generalship had to be exercised to catch the faces 
 of these native women, but, as the screen shows, I was fairly successful 
 in a number of my experiments in that direction. 
 
 .\t Juneau we got very good groups, .\rter buying some trinkets 
 from a girl we got her and two others to sit on a big stone liv paying 
 them twentv-five < cuts ajiiece, and one of our i)arly engaged them 
 with palaver while posturing them, and the wily dete( tivc did its instan- 
 taneous work unawares. 
 
 I was much interested in an illustration of the jiertinacitv with 
 which these .\laskan women insist u|)on sitting on the ground, con- 
 tained in a letter from one of our missionaries who had gathered a lot 
 of them to teach them how to sew and read, and learn various desirable 
 things. She insisted upon their occujjying ciiairs. and they were so 
 grateful for her kindness that they di<l tiieir utmost to be polite, but 
 every now and then one and another weary soul would slide ot^" onto 
 the floor for a rest ! In some of the houses of the white people, where 
 Alaska women called while we were visiting, they would invariably 
 l>opdown onto the tloor instead of taking a proftered chair. 1 observed, 
 however, that all these experiments were tried with the ordinary chair; 
 nobody knows what success might be attained with the rocker. 
 
 Pictures were shown of an Indian village at Rasaan, and another 
 at Juneau, giving a very good idea of the common sort of huts occu- 
 l)ied by the Alaskans, but the buildings at both these places were ijuite 
 interior to those at Sitka and Wrangel. where a very fair sort of frame, 
 dapboarded house is in common use. Chimneys, however, are as yet 
 an unknown luxury among the untutored natives. They build their 
 fires in the middle of the floor on a place prepared for that purpose, 
 and the smoke escapes through a hole in the roof. Dogs form a very 
 
ALASKA, ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 16 
 
 important part of the Indian household ; at some places they appeared 
 to be in droves, and their daily experiences were not unmixed with 
 those infelicities which are apt to accompany savage life ; the biggest 
 dog always got the best fish and the little fellow not unfrecpiently got 
 nothing at all — except a shaking up. 
 
 One of the most interesting incidents of the whole tour was our 
 visit at New Medakahtla — " new," because the old Metlakahtla was in 
 British Columbia, where Mr. Duncan, nearly forty years ago, started 
 a mission among the Inriians, who at that time were fierce and war- 
 like ; th^y were cannibals, eating their cai)tives taken in war, and 
 indulging in all the most hoiril)le and beastly ceremonies known to 
 the vilest of barbarians — devil dances, dog dances, and every manner 
 of heathenish i)ractice that was ever heard o" among the savagest 
 savages. He came out under the auspices of the I.onilon Missionary 
 Society, and took refuge at one of the trading posts of the Hudson 
 Bay Company until he learned enough of the Indian language to 
 enable him to ni.ikc himself understood, and then, contrary to the 
 advice and exhortations of friends, who assured him that he would be 
 murdered within twenty-four hours, he went out among these people, 
 telling them the sh.iple st(,ry of the Cross, and convincing them finally 
 that there was at least one white man who had come among them for 
 some other purpose than to make |)rofit out of them. The story is 
 too extended for relation here, but 1 will state in brief that he selected 
 a si)ot, built up a village, established mills and stores, erected a church 
 and school-house and organized a civilized C'hristian community out 
 of this unjjromising material. He made his reports to London at 
 intervals, where, by and by. the work attracted so much attention and 
 was regarded as of so much importance that a Bishop of .Metlakahtla 
 was duly sent out to take charge of the enterjjtise. It is a long story. 
 .\ntagonisms arose, the great bulk of the natives adhering to Mr. 
 Duncan. The narrative reveals an instance of religious persecution 
 such as is hardly credible among Christian people in this enlightened 
 
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 ALA SKA , ILL USTRA TED. 
 
 17 
 
 nineteenth century. The outcome of it was that Mr. Duncan sought 
 refuge on .Vnierican soil with his Metlakahtla Indians, and they have 
 commenced the l)uii(Hng of a new town and the erecting of new 
 industries under the protection of the stars and strijies. 'I'heir former 
 property was withheld, the State siding with the church, and the In- 
 dians were not iiermitted to remove their houses; even Mr. Duncan's 
 private library was confiscated, and their new beginning in that wild 
 country is almost literally with nothing in hand. They have j)ros- 
 pered fairly, however, many friends in the States sending them means, 
 and it is not unlikely that they will reach and in time surpass the 
 prosjjerity which they attained in their old home in British Columbia. 
 The pictures show gr()U])s of cleanly children, and one of them is 
 interesting as revealing the belle of the village, a very pretty, well- 
 dressed Indian girl, dickering with our passengers for the sale of 
 bracelets, of which she had both her wrists full. No less than five 
 cameras went ashore here, and the aggregate of amateur photograph- 
 ing that was done in the few short iiours si)ent at Metlakahtla was 
 very ( Dnsiderable. '■ 
 
 .\t Killesnoo we found a cannery which had been shut down, the 
 enterprise for some reason not having proved i)rofitable. Several 
 families of whites live here in very comfortable houses, but the char- 
 at:ter of the place is an Indian whom they call Saginaw Jake. He 
 hatl been a |)retty iuinl ( ase in his time, but had been down to the 
 States and had accjuired some notions of the white man's su])eriority, 
 and as he was a person of considerable influence in his tribe he was 
 encouraged to take on wiiite manV ways, and he came Iku k clothed 
 not onlv with a naval uniform of blue broadcloth and gilt buttons, 
 et( ., but (formally or informally, or jocosely, as the case may be vieweil 
 1)V those who look at il.) with authority to keep the peace and regu- 
 late things generally among the Killesnoo people. Some wag had 
 procured the painting of a large sign for Jake. wlii< h was duly nailed 
 
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>iten»«vaia.twM) TtiHij 
 
 ALA SKA, ILL USTRA TiED. 
 
 18 
 
 on the gable of his suhstantial (.IweUing. 1 copied the inscription and 
 it read in this wise : 
 
 By the governor's commission 
 And the conijiany's permission 
 I am made tlie great Tyhee 
 Of all this Illahee. 
 
 (KlTCIIKKNAll.r) 
 Prominent in song and story 
 I've attained the top of glory. 
 As Saginaw I'm known to fame, 
 Jake is l>nt my common name. 
 
 At Tongas we niaile a critical and detailed examination of the 
 cannery which was in operation there, antl the result is that we give 
 our verdict in favor of Alaska salmon. We watched the operation 
 from the time the fish was ali\e and flopping on the end of the wharf 
 until he was sealed uj) in the cans ready for shipment within an hour 
 after he left the water. 'I'he fishes were wheeled in harrow-loads ttj 
 the j)lace of e.xecution, where a Chinaman at one end of a table 
 whacked off the head, tail and back fins, and disemboweling him, 
 slid him across to where he fell into a tank of running water. Here 
 he was washed, taken out, scraped and shoved along again into 
 another tank, from the further end of which he was fished out and 
 chopped into three or four pieces, and slid along a platform to the 
 canning machine, whose claws drew him down into what in many 
 respects looked like a large old-fiishioned sausage-stuffer. to which the 
 cans were rapidly fed on an inclined i)lane. -As each came ojjposite 
 the proi)er place it was stuffed full and shoved along to "iiere a man 
 put it under a press and forced hot water into it. From here it went 
 onto a table around which a half-dozen C'hinanten and Indians were 
 engaged with little wooden mallets hammering on the tin top>. When 
 covereil, the cans were run through a trough (-f melted solder, rolling 
 along at an angle so that only the rim of the toi) passed through the 
 
ALA SKA , IL r US TRA TED. 
 
 19 
 
 metal, and whtn a can came out at the further end it was hermetically 
 sealed. A pin-hole was then made in the top and the cans were packed 
 on an iron platform on wheels, about twelve dozen at a time, and rolled 
 into an oven where they were kept until sufficiently cooked. As they 
 were taken out of the oven a drop of solder was ]nit upon each pin-hole 
 and the cans were then ready to be labeled and boxed. The whole 
 process ajjpeared to be cleanly and it was so expeditious that the fish 
 in the cans were certainly fresh, not having been out of their native 
 element more than an hour or two when they were transformed into 
 articles of commerce. 
 
 It was at Tongas that 1 came across an illustration of the naval 
 architecture of the country. They were building canoes, and this is 
 the way they did it. I'he ])ictures show a canoe in process, and 
 several finished boats. A log of the recjuired si/.e and length is 
 selected anil a regular dug-out is made, with this imjjrovement, how- 
 ever, that it is well shajjed outside as well as thoroughly excavated 
 inside. \Vhen the carving and digging have been finished, the boat 
 is braced up and filled with water, the water is filled with red-hot 
 stones, and the whole covered with tent-cloths and left to steam and 
 boil until the wood is soft and pliable. Then the thwarts are ])Ut in 
 and the sides of the lioat sjiread out, so that a four-foot canoe is made 
 out i)f a two-foot log. 'l"he spreading out of the sides tilts up the 
 ends, and the result is the graceful shape shown in the pictures. 
 'I'hese boats are, many of them, among the most symmetrical that 1 
 ever saw. 
 
 One great objective point in the Alaska trip is the visit to the 
 (llaciers. .\s we ai)i)r<)ach (llacier Hay, we come into a region where 
 the United States surveys tell us there is " a glacier in every ravine," 
 and this is true, and the truth becomes more and more emphatic as 
 we proceed, for those who have explored the country say that between 
 ('.lacier Hay and Mt. St. Klias there is a sheet of ice from i,ooo to 
 3,000 feet in thickness, big enough to cover the whole of Switzerland, 
 
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 i^i.furr.s UMluded. It IS lirf>l»,U)|. 
 
 1 In- largest, m tlu) cfrtainly ;i 
 •iriessiblf. of any yet known f'^ i 
 
 A.-, wf borir' t(i tlu- iv-rrii v 
 were- ;i disappointment. I'hf lar^^s! 
 tceloutof.hr u.urr. „.i u. ,,„„untmV 
 out of her course. I'suaiiv ^U,^ .i,.[,f..r,.,! 
 standing a ft-w inches or a few i, , • 
 u:ll. the tide or the glaciaJ rurn < 
 'ht^ .twant line of white whi(h w 
 
 oprcssive. We had Iieen ; 
 ' I in ."^onre instjinre^ i : 
 
 nri^rnitiKjc and ;, . 
 
 M»««K- Mair (ilacier was at fir.tt ^m\h 
 mterestinjf from a .scientific rather thj. 
 
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 Mm h ,ff the surhi.c looks iikr n. 
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 ALA SKA , //, /. LSJ'JiA TJiD. 
 
 20 
 
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 with its mountains and its valleys, and all the rest of its domain, 
 glaciers included. It is probable that the glaciers of this region are 
 the largest, as they certainly are — when you get there — the most 
 accessible, of any yet known to the tourist world. 
 
 As we bore to the north we began to meet the " i( ebergs." They 
 were a disappointment. The largest ont ac saw stood about thirty 
 feet out of the water, and we encountered few that need turn a vessel 
 out of her course. Usually they ajjpeared to be ma.sses of mushy ice, 
 standing a few inches or a few feet above the su.face, floating away 
 with the tide or the gla( ial currents. As we sailed up (ilacier Hay, 
 the distant line of white which was pointed out to us as the Muir, was 
 not impressive. We had been looking at snow mountains 5,000, 
 10,000 and in some instances 15,000 feet high. Compared with the 
 magnituile and the grandeur of the things at which wc iiad been 
 ga/ing, Muir (ilacier was at first simply a pretty, sparkling thing, 
 interesting from a scientific rather than a scenic standpoint, but as the 
 day wore on and wc became better actpiainted with it, our interest 
 increased, and when the afternoon grew late and the time arrived for 
 us to leave, I would have been glad to stay another day — and perhaps 
 another. 
 
 I shall not attempt to make you any scientific dissertation upon 
 (Uaciers, but will give simple desc riptions and ])ersonal exi)eriences. 
 The Muir is about 300 feet in height, and extends clear across that 
 arm of the bay which it fills, say two and a half to three miles. 
 Masses of ice are constantly falling from the face of the glacier. The 
 water is continually cutting away the base and so the front is as contin- 
 ually falling off, leaving the face almost per})endicular, and broken in 
 ten thousand glistening fractures, fresh, clean and continually bright. 
 Much of the surface looks like frozen snow, but here and there are 
 large masses of clear ice of an opaline, greenish-blue color. I walked 
 up the shore close under the southerly moraine as near to the clift" as 1 
 tlareil, taking pictures here and there. \Vhile I was within perhaps 
 
ALASKA, ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 '21 
 
 500 feet of the precipice, an immense fall of ice occurred ; I do not 
 think 1 exaggerate when I say that it was as large in bulk as this great 
 building, the Orand Pacific Hotel, in which we are sitting to-night. 
 The crash was like the discharge of a park (jf artillery, ..ac. tiT water 
 flew into the air nearly to the top of the clift", more than .-'co leet high. 
 The curler which came ashore was more than six feel in height. I 
 observed it, luckily, in time to run up the bank and escape it. but half 
 a mile ftni^her down the beach it caught some members of our party, 
 and one voung lady got an ice-water bath up to her waist. Standing 
 at the nearest point to the ice-clift' and looking up at my right, the 
 moraine seemed to be formed of millions of tons of half-rotted ice, inter- 
 mingled with mud and stones and r/'ifV'/v'.f of all sorts, apj)arently ready to 
 fall at any instant and crush and bury all intruders. My curiosity was 
 very sot)n satisfied, my camera fired oft" two or three times at the most 
 noticeable points, and I retreated in good order. Afterwards we made 
 our way, partly on and partly around the southerly moraine, up on to the 
 top of the glacier. Here we stood on ice i ,000 feet or more in thick- 
 ness, and half a mile back from the edge of the i)recipice we found a 
 " beacon" or tripod of slender timbers, which our captain had set up 
 a cou])le of trips before. On one of the .-.oks a box was nailed and 
 in the box was a memorandum book .ivid pencil. Everybody who 
 visited the spot was expected to register nis name with the date of his 
 visit. Heing followers of the fiishion, we recorded ours for the future 
 admiration of those who might be followers of us. 
 
 The Auk Glacier, which we saw at considerable distance, impressed 
 me as being a very fine one, and the mountains north of the .Vuk were, 
 I think, among the most beautiful, both in outline and color, of any of 
 the snow mountains that we saw. 
 
 'I'he Davidson (llacier and the I'aterson, both of which we saw 
 only a mile or two away as we sailed past them, were i)ronounced by 
 members of our party who had traveled much abroad, to be finer than 
 anything they had seen in Switzerland. 
 
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 Mtt-r leaving Glaciei- liay, »>,■ :„,.■, , 
 111 JU) i)arl of our journey i\k\ wc ,,e i (•,.,.: 
 this neighl.)orhood. The water anms hUI ,.* 
 one oi' the western end of tlie St. I.jwrv;,. 
 M-hoi.l i)i(;ni(:s — ,/,/ infnnliiw. • )r,r loute ai* w, 
 .■-nn|»lv charminu. Mm i,,,.,,, ^-a was 
 
 extinct vol<;ano whose it\ii ■ ,,\ m, mi- 
 
 nietriuU inoiuitain, althouj^h ;i, ; . ,,» 
 Vestovia there was a (li.stinclly-tuni : . 
 which the snovs toil not x^! all meitcd away. ; 
 'hape 
 
 Olt. -i ;,- ..i..L uiiiig-. that attrai • ' 
 he lamls at Siika, is the " old t;astl«, -; 
 the vs iuirf. i' \s thf spot where ol<! Haroiu,:; 
 and (>erh.i|i^ the jneseiii strut lure — ,. lartre r, 
 
 will' h '.- . , upieti t)v the i<v^- ; . 
 
 t : . . 
 
 sonvetivnes niieeu 'i iuoir. >! jhe Russia; 
 s<iuadron would .pen.! ' ■ a part of t% 
 orticcrs '* the-.' ,. •■ ;ticir laniiiies ma<k , 
 iw^iv u^vi;,,,:,^f . ,.;.. aieyt'Peated livdkr i 
 
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 dlv nothing \>\n 
 tne iht 
 'f-t»retd. 
 
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 general busuics.s t.uni 
 excursion steamers, t,oaumi.u« h,, 
 littie either of populatiim wr s»ct)< 
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 ALASKA, JLLUSTRATED. 
 
 22 
 
 After leaving Cilacier Bay, we steamed rapidly towards Sitka, and 
 in no jjart of our journey did we see more attractive scenery than in 
 this neighborhood. The water was full of little islets which remindetl 
 one of the western end of the St. Lawrence River — and of Sunday- 
 school picnics — ad iiijiiiiiiiiii. ( )ur route as we sailed among them was 
 simply charming. Out towards the sea was old Mt. Kdgcumbe, an 
 extinct volcano whose crater is now occupied by a lake — a very sym- 
 metrical mountain, although not a very high one. On one side of Mt. 
 Vestovia there was a distinctly-formed snow-anchor, the ravines, from 
 which the snow had not yet all melted away, furnishing the necessary 
 shape. 
 
 One of the first things that attracts the attention of the visitor as 
 he lands at Sitka, is the " old castle," situated on a great rock near 
 the wharf. It is the spot where old Baronoft" built his citadel in 1799, 
 and perhaps the present structure — a large two-story frame building, 
 which was occupied by the Rus.sian government for its headciuarters — 
 is the same old house. It was the scene of many a gay revel during 
 the time the country was under Russian control. .V large number, 
 sometimes fifteen or more, of the Russian warships of the Pacific 
 squadron wcnild spentl all or a part of the winter at Sitka. The 
 officers (M" these with their fiimilies made a gay company in that iar- 
 away metropolis, and they created livelier times than the present ones. 
 From the top of this old building 1 took three pictures, which, laid 
 beside each other, present a comjjlete panoramic view of the .Alaskan 
 capital. [t is really nothing but a straggling, irregular, wooden 
 village. .\t the time we were there there were about 100 whites, 
 about 300 Creoles or half-breeds belonging to the (ireek church, and 
 900 Indians or native Alaskans. It is the seat of government, but the 
 general business carried on must be very light as, aside from the 
 excursion steamers, communication is unfreipient and there is very 
 little either of ])opulation or activity inland to create trade. 
 
 .Sitka is the location, however, of one notable in.stitution, and that 
 
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 ,» IJ«jpiM""i«<«l|».lf»i I I I III IIIHI 
 
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 ALASKA, ILLUSTRATED. 23 
 
 is the government industrial training school, our visit to which was 
 full of interest, and we carried away pleasant memories of what we 
 saw and heard, and exalted ideas of the possibilities which exist in 
 connection with these natives. We attended an evening exhibition at 
 the school, in which there was not a single word spoken by a white 
 man. With the sound of fife and drum a scjuad of uniformed boys 
 marched in with their guns on their shoulders, and at the word of 
 command from an Indian sergeant went through a sciuad drill, carry 
 arms, present arms, etc., after which they stood their guns in a corner 
 and sat down with the rest of the pupils, 167 of them, all cleanly, 
 well-dressed and fairly intelligent in appearance. \w Indian boy 
 stejjped on to the platform as master of ceremonies, and another pre- 
 sided at the organ. We had solos, duets, (juartettes, and choruses, 
 declamations, dialogues, little children's pieces and other exercises, 
 conducted exclusively by the native pupils, and the performance, both 
 musical and oratorical, was of about the same grade as would be 
 furnished by children of the same age in our primary and grammar 
 schools here in the States. 
 
 Mr. Hine gave pictures and extended descriptions of the notable 
 things to be seen in and about Sitka : the luxuriant \egetation at 
 Indian River, the old block-houses which formed a portion of the 
 Russian system of fortifications, the old mill, the (ireek church, the 
 Indian ranch, etc., which need not be inserted here in full detail. 
 
 From Sitka our vessel turned again to the north and we threaded 
 the great archipelago several hundred miles uj) into the Chilcat coun- 
 try, our farthest point north being Pyramid Harbor, where there is an 
 important cannery, and beyond which, on another arm of the water, 
 is located the Haines mission, where a work similar to the ones 
 alluded to at Metlakahda and Sitka is being carried on. 
 
 The morning that we went up Lynn Canal we encountered one of 
 tlie most magnificent atmospheric displays that it has ever been my 
 good fortune to witness. The night had been foggy and a westerly 
 
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ma^ms 
 
 saassi^aaiaBSSS^BiSsammi 
 
 ITES: 
 
 
 ALASKA, ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 24 
 
 
 breeze was driving the vapor oft" from the water against the (hirk 
 mountains, over whose jagged peaks it was rolhng as the morning sun 
 from the opposite direction was striving to tight its way througli. 'I'he 
 artist, Healy, who was one of our passengers, was on deck l)right and 
 early that morning enjoying the magnificent scenery, and was stand- 
 ing by my side as I took the three pictures which are here exhibited 
 to you. The battle between sun and cloud was stupendous. ( Ircat 
 masses of vapor rolled slowly up the mountain sides, pierced h^re and 
 there by the ragged Chilcat peaks, and penetrated from the east by 
 the strong beams of the rising sun. It seemed impossible thai such a 
 gigantic struggle could progress amid the profound silence which 
 reigned. It was impressive beyond all description ; neither words nor 
 delineation can convey any adequate idea of the grandeur of the 
 scene that was before us. It was one of those i)ictures which stamp 
 themselves upon memory, never to be eftaced. 
 
 The scenery of all this region is very rugged, the mountain i)eaks 
 are sharj) and jagged, and even in late July when we were there, many 
 of them were wholly or partially covered with snow. The pictures 
 shown of the White mountains, the Chilcat range, etc., give a very 
 fair notion of the general appearance of this pictures([ue but inhospit- 
 able region. 
 
 The Chilcat Ciorge presented an opening of singular beauty. 
 Snowy mountains were in the distance, between which and the pa.ssing 
 vessel from which the picture was taken, seven intervening ranges of 
 hills overlap|>ed each other, affording that number of gradations of 
 color and shade. As we came to views like this it seemed a pity that 
 we must pass them by with the rapidity of steam travel. There are 
 times when one longs for rapid transit, but there are others when more 
 leisurely movement with ad libitum pauses would be welconie. 
 
 .-\t Pyramid Harbor there is {|uite a thriving settlement, the l>usi-g5 
 ness i)asis of which is an extensive cannery. 1 was so fortunate as to 
 secure pictures of several groups of natives here, witii less noisy 
 
^ 
 
 1 
 
■JBaaKajLUauOAXte 
 
 "IV w 
 
 ALA SKA, ILL USTRA TED. 
 
 26 
 
 t 
 
 strategy, however, than that adopted at Douj^lass Island. I would 
 approach the wiuatting figures to within the proper distance, which 1 
 would measure with my eye, and then innocently have my ittention 
 called in some other direction, when I would turn my hack upon them, 
 focus the instrument, set the shutter, etc., and then, turning slowly 
 around, would bring them into the field, touch die spring and secure 
 my picture without having them suspect what I was about. 
 
 I cani.jt consent to close this account of our Alaska voyage with- 
 out a brief allusion to our life on the vessel. Among so large and 
 intelligent a company there was a variety of talent. Some of the 
 ladies were e.\(|uisite i)erformers up(m the piano and we had a tine 
 instrument on board. Then there were banjoists and violinists, and 
 we had concerts and tableaux, and one day we had no end of noisy 
 fun in building living totems out on deck, u]) a ladder that led to the 
 roof of the "house." One young fellow would sit on the deck. 
 another would get astride of his shoulders, another on toj) of him. and 
 so on as high as we could build, all hanging on to the ladder, when 
 some sudden infirmity of the foundation would bring the whole struc- 
 ture into hilarious ruin. There were four clergymen on board and we 
 had delightful services on the two Sabbaths which were included in 
 our seventeen days' sail. One peculiarity of the deck furniture was 
 the substitution of rocking-chairs for the ordinary steamer chair. 
 There were perhaps forty rockers on deck and during our whole trij) 
 there was scarcely an hour when thiTc «as motion enough to interfere 
 with the easy occupation of these comfortable seats. One pleasant 
 incident was the raising of a purse among the gratified passengers for 
 the pur])()se of jjrocuring a handsome piece of siber for Captain 
 Hunter. This we afterwartls had manufactured at San Francisco. 
 There were a good many children on board who enjoyed the journey 
 as thoroughly as their elders. The beautiful groujjs which they would 
 form as they sat on deck were, some of them, perpetuated by the 
 cameras which were on board. 
 
Itii 
 
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 I 
 
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1 
 
 i^:3Sf?^,';r'w,ri&^„:j:ii^^ 
 
 ALASKA, ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 26 
 
 Further space cannot well be spared for even a sketcli of Mr. 
 Mine's following remarks. Pictures were exhibited and descriptions 
 given of the scenery on the Columbia River, anil of a week's jaunt 
 through the Yellowstone Park with its boiling springs, its geysers, its 
 wonderful yellow canon, the Obsidion Cliffs, and so forth, and so 
 forth, and the evening's entertainment closed with a few miscellane- 
 ous pictures: the Lick Observatory on Mt. Hamilton, California: 
 some scenes in Colorado, including Helen Hunt Jackson's lonely grave 
 on the (Cheyenne mountain, and a couple of \ lews of magnificent old 
 snow-capped Shasta. »