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' W STANLKY, ^'4.tJW.KVT or THR "»KW YORK UKifALD" 't-LUSTRATJOf,:, AND MAPS /^^^.fi^^ ^fJ^KJs «is.Ai ST. JAMES STREET. 1872. -mtmtu^tmmtmmuit^- \ C\j \nr-^' r I J .f/'^ HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE; TRAVELS. ADVENTURES, AM) DfSCOVERIES JX |i CENTRAL AFEICA; INCLUDING FOUR MONTHS RESIDENCE WITH DR. LIVINGSTONE. BY HENRY M. STANLEY, TltAVELLING CORRESIOVDKNT OP THE "NEW YORK HEIULD." ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS. {^M^f^^^jJ^^^^JsV MONTREAL: DAWSON BROTHERS, 55 TO 59 GREAT ST. JAMES STrLeT. 1872. STAA/i-ey, ^.^, i Kntcred according to Act of Purliaincnt of Canada, in the year 18V2, hy DAWSON BROTHERS. In the Omcc of the Minister of Agriculture. THE I / TO Tilt: 1 f i' I I TO JAMES GORDON BENNETT, ESQ., (PltOl'lUKTOK OF THE "NEW YOKK IlKltAI.Il,"; THIS SECOKU OF THE EXPEDITION PENT IN SEARCH OF DOCTOR LIVINGSTONE, AND OF TRAVKLS. ADVKNTUIIKS. AND DISOOVEUIES IN CKNTIUL AFRICA, |s llcspcttfulljT glfbitiitcb, '^ AS A TRIBUTE TO THE fiENEROSITY AND THE LIBERALITY WHICH ORIGINATEn, SUSTAINED. AND CROWNED THE ENTERPRISE, UY HIS GRATEFUL SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT, HENRY M. STANLEY, I.AfK COMMANDER "NEW VOKK IIERALI)" EXl'KDITIOX. f m^ ^ MM. . A A^jwiaMofeuuMiitM^S •(■ CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. ZANZIBAR. Arrival at Zanzibar— Reception by Captain Webb, U.S. Consul- Life at Zanzibar— System of Trade with the Interior— Tlie town of Zanzibar— Population—Introduction to Dr. Kirk— Bishop ^'"'^^'' Pages 1 to 20 ClIAPTEK 11. OUQAXIZATION OF THE EXPEDITIOX. Difficulty of obtaining information— Engagement of J. W. Shaw and W. L. Farquhar— Mbarak Bombay— Visit to the Sultan's Palace— Embarkation for Bagamoyo— Courtesy and Character of the Sultan Pages 21 to 40 CHAPTER I If. BAGAMOYO. Arrival at Bagamoyo— Hospitality of the Jesuit Mission— Life at Bagamoyo— Ali bin Salim— Dishonest Prowlers— Donkey y stolen— Packing the Bales— Difficulty in procuring Pagazis— t Cost of Ctanuge and Goods— Soor Hadji Palloo— His°pecca- dilloes— Visit to the Livingstone Caravan— Arrival at Bngaiuoj o of Dr. Kirk— Climate of Bagamoyo -Departure of the Five ^^^^^''^ns PagciidltoCS vm (:(K\'n':.\r>: ClIAPTKU IV. THliOUUH UKWKUi;, IIKAMI, AND UIHJK, To USKcJUHHA. Arrival at first Cainp, " Shamba Gouora " — Tho Valley of tho Kingani — I3ullJing Kridgo across tho Kingaui — Tho crossing — Poppcring Hippopotami— Arrival at Kikoka— Route uovcr travelled by a White ]\ran— Rosako, tho Frontier Village of IHcwcro— Impertinent Curiosity of tho Wagogo— My Watch- dog "Omar"— The Insect Tribo — Tho Tsetse Fly— The Chufwa Fly : its voracity — Commencement of tho Masika, or Itainy Season— Death of Arab Horse — Interview with Chief of Kiugaru— Death of Bay Horse— March to Imbiki — Arrival at Msuwa — Jungle troubles — Chained Slave-gang — Kisemo— Tho Belles of Kisemo — ])escrtion of Khamcsi: his punishment — Crossing tho Ungcrengeri — Tho Capital, Uscguhha Simba- mwenni — The Sultana — Stormy Dispute with Shaw— African Ague — Visit from the Sultana . . . Pages G9 to at Trib Man Sulti Muk 1 )ifip ]U*OV Sultil llsh- — Ai 120 ClIAPTHB V TO UOOCiO. The Rainy Season —Innumerable Hosts of Creeping Tilings— Cross- ing the Ungerengori — The Flogging of Bunder Salaam : ho is Lost : his Discovery — Soldiers imprisoned by the Sultana — Tho Makata Wilderness— Desertion and Capture of Soldier — Terri- ble Difllculties in crossing tho Makata Swamp — Encampment at Usagara — Shaw's Letter to Farquhar — Farquhar's Rci)ly — His extravagant Expenditure — Shaw's Dilatoriness — Novel mode of using a Cart — Lake Ugorabo — Shaw and Farquhar at Breakfast — Shaw "measures his length" on tho ground — Asks for his Discharge — He Repents— A kshot fired through my Tent — Farquhar left behind at Mpwapwa — Abdullah bin Nasib — Scenery of Mpwapwa . . . Pages 121 to 17(.| CHAPTER VL THROUGH JIAHENGA MKALI, UGOGO, UYAXZI, TO U^'VANYEMB^:. Arrival at Chunyo — Bitter Water — Maronga Mkali — No Water lor Thirty-six Hours — A Dangerous Fever attttck — Arrival ( ( UXTL'M'.-^. ro usi:(;uHHA. Valley of the — Tho crossing — a — Route never tnticr Village of go— My Watch- 3otso Fly— Tho tho Mivsika, or cw with Chief of biki — Arrival at ; — Kisemo — Tho s punishment — cguhha Simba- Shaw — African Pages G9 to 120 Things— Cross- Salaam : ho is e Sultana — Tho Soldier — Tcrri- Encami)mcnt uhar's licply — )rincs8 — Novel 1(1 Farquhar at tho ground — ed through my -Abdullah bin Pages 121 to 170J '0 UXYANYEMliE. ili— No Water tack — Arrival at I'gogo — Furious Mob-Plentiful SuiijiUcs at Mvumi— Tribute to the (Jnat Sultan -The Sultnu of Malamburu — IMarch to Pihawaua \Vl«i]ii>ing the Wagogo Visit from tho Sultan of Mi/iinza -Tho Wahumba a line Race Arrival at ^rukonduku— Departure -Counsel with Arabs as to Route — Dispute and Separation from them They follow I'gogo lirovcs to be a Land of (lall und Bitterness— Arrival at Kiti- - Sultan bin ^lohammed— Halt at Kusuri— Thief shot Mud- lish — Rubuga in Ruins- Amir l)in Sultan— Crossing tho Mtoni —Arrival in Inyaiiycmbo .... Pages 171 to 222 CHAPTER VII. r.i:0(}RAPHI(;AL and ETIINOGIIAI'IIR'AL hemarks. Pages 223 to 257 CHAPTER VI II. I.I IK IN UNVANYEMBi:. Hospitality of the (.iovcrnor, Sayd bin Salim— Comfortable (Quarters — Tabora, tho principal Arab Settlement- -]Mirambo, Chief of Tyoweh —His Depredations— A Council of War — Tho Ijivingstono Caravan found —Terrible attack of Fever — March for Ujiji — Arrival at Masangi — Shaw taken 111 — Join the Arab Army at Mfuto — Fight with Mirambo — Capture of the Village of Zimbizo — Fever again — Defeat and great Slaughter of the Arabs by Jlirambo — Retreat to Mfuto . . J'ages 258 to 28G CHAPTER IX. LIKE IX UXYANYEMBE. The Arabs Retreat to Tabora— I proceed — Arrival at Kwihara — Try another Route— My Position most Serious — Death of Farquhar reported — ^Dcfoat of the Arabs at Tabora — Khamis bin Abdullah slain — Tabora in Flames — Preparations for Defence — Tho Philosopher Sheikh bin Nasib— I determine to lead a Flying Caravan to Fjiij- Death of Baruii — Men dis- pirited — The little Boy Kalulu — His baptism — Miraml o attacks Mfuto, and is defeated- Sclim Delirious from constant Fevers — Two Guides, Asmani and Mabruki — My Resolution to iind Livingstone ..... Pages 287 to 309 %-'% il CONTENTS. I i CHAPTEE X. TO JIRKEA, UKONONCO. Start from Kwiliara — Bombay gets a Thrashing — Shaw wishes to stay behind — I compel him to go on — Another Fever attack — Livingstone's Letter-carrier missing — Amval at Kasegera — Sha'v gives in, and is sent back to Kwihara— Tlio splendid Forests of Unyamwezi — We reach Ugunda— The IMukungin-u — Description of this Fever — A magnificent Sycamore — A Victim to Small-pox — Numerous Skeletons found on the Eoad-side - Arrival at Llanyara — Dispute as to Tribute with the Sultan — Visit from him — A Dose of Concentrated Ammonia — The Sultan's Astonishment — The Hunter's Paradise — My first Game, an Antelope shot — Zebra-stalking — Adventure with a Croco- dile — Two Days' Hunting — Mutiny — Asmani and Mabruki present their Guns at me — Peace restored — Bombay Thrashed again, and put in Chains — Characters of the Principal Men — Arrival at Ziwani — The Honey-Bird — Utende — Mwaru — Summar \ \ Arrival at Mrera — Shoe-meudin;. Pages 310 to 3G0 ; CHAPTEB XL Oar Sh The Villag at S'u] and W of th Docto Swarn the Li Eusiz still I — Sig: Islets Sultai THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. Departure from Mrera — Camp in tho Jungle — I sink to my Neck in the Ooze of the Uungwa — The Mpokwa Eiver — The Home of the Lion first seen — A Troop of Monkeys — Adventure with a huge "Wild Boar — Ft)lIowcd by a Lion — A Day of great Troubles — A Buffalo shot — A Leopard — Buffalo-stalking — Famine stares us in the face — Welled Nzogera's — Food plentiful — A Donkey sinks in tlio Morass — Embassy to Chief Kiala — Seven Hours of Talk — On the Banks of tho IMalagarazi — Our Donkey " Siml)a " sei/cd and carried away by a Crocodile — Nkws of Livingstoxk! — Halt at Kawanga — Disputes about Tribute — Exorbitant Demands — We cross the Pombwe and the Kanciii:i Bivers — A Midnight JMarch through the Jungle — A Crazy Woman r.imost betrays us by yelling — Thunder from tho Tanganika — On tho Banks of tho Eugufu— Niamtaga — The Tanganika! Hurrah! Unfurl tho Flags! — Susi, Dr. Living- stone's Servant, says, "Good-morning, Sir!" — " Dn. Livino- KTONT, I ruEsr.Mi:?" "I'cs/" — Conversation with the Doctor 1 •1 -Good-night Pages 3G1 to 419 Chat wi Docte Blam thejn Doctc Eemi from cross the Vallc — Ti / CONTENTS. xt -Shaw wishes to ler Fever attack xl at Kasegora — a — Tlie splendid 10 IMiikuugurn — more — A Yictim tlic Eoad-sidc - ith the Sultan — Amr.ionia — The —My first Game, 3 with a Croco- i and Mabruki )mhay Thrashed Principal Men — iide — Mwarn — Pages 310 to I CHAPTER XII. INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI. 5G0i A, TO UJIJI. •I sink to my Sva Eiver — The !ys — Adventnro \ Day of great Yalo-stalking — -Food plentiful Chief Kiala — ilagarazi — Our a Crocodile — disputes about PombwG and . the Jungle — Tluuidcr from — Niamtaga — isi, Dr. Living- Dn. LiviNO- th the Doctor Pages 3G1 to 419 Summary from my Note-book of Livingstone's Travels Pages 420 to 47 J CHAPTER XIII. OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. Oar Ship, a cranky Canoe — Enormous Dog-nosed ^loukoy — The Fishermen of the Tanganika — The Zassi River and Village — Soundings of the Lake — Nyabigma Island — Disturbed at Supper — Hostility of the Natives — War between Mukamba and Warumashanya— A Mgwana asserts that the Rusizi flows out of the Lake — I am struck down by Fever — Nursed by the Doctor — The Mgwana's Report contradicted by Mukamba — Swarms of Crocodiles — Ruhiuga's Information — The Head of the Lake and the Mouth of the Rusizi — The Question, Was tlio Rusizi an Effluent or Influent, answered for ever — The Doctor still believes in an Outlet — Burton and Speke's Extreme Point — Signs of Disturbance in Mruta'b v illagc — " New York Herald Islets " — Cape Luvumba — A Fight about to Commence — The Sultan Pacified — A serio-comic Scene — Return to Ijiji Pages 475 to 515 CHAPTER XIV. 1 tf GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. Pages 51G to 557 CHAPTER XV. OUR JOURNEV TO UNYANYEMBE. Chat with Livingstone over the Incidents of the " Pic-uic " — The Doctor declines to return Home luitil his Work is done — Blames Dr. Kirk for sending him Slaves, and commanding them to bring him back — Recovery of his luifiold Rifles — The Doctor resolves to accompany mo to Unyanycmbc — Attack of Remittent Fever— How wo spent Christmas-day— Departure from Ujiji — Our Voyage down the Tanganika — Arrival at, and I crossing the Liuche — Crossing the IMalaj^arazi — No Current in the Tanganika — Arrival at Urimba — Zebra-shooting — The Valley of Loajeri — Buffalo Cow shot — Confronting an Elephant — Travellers' Tales — Rcd-beardcd Monkeys- IMogdula sighted b 2 7 ■ ^11 'It 1 1 : I xii COSTENTf^. — The Valley of Imrera — The Doctor foot ^orc — Herds of Game in Mpokwa Plain — Two Zebras shot— A Herd of Giraffe — Giraffe wounded — Ibrahim's Slave Ulimengo absconds — Latitude of Mpokwa — Zinc Canteens converted into Bullets- Giraffe brought down therewith — St-art for Misonghi — The Doctor dreadfully Stung by Wild Bees — Mirambo famished — Death of Shaw — Incidents in the Career and Death of Eobcrt Livingstone — A Lion in the Grass — A Triplet of Lions — Arrival at ITgunda — Capture of the Deserter, Hamdallah — Arrival at Unyanyembo .... Pages 558 to GOT CHAPTEK XVL HOMKWARD BOUND. Livingstone's Stores opened — Found to be a Delusion — Asmani found Guilty — White Ants consuming the Brandy and replac- ing the Corks ! — The Goods turned over to Dr. Livingstone — He writes his Letters home — His Letter to James G. Bennett — Native Song — Last Night with Livingstone — His Journal sealed up — Our final Departure — Farewell — Halt at Tura — Letters from the Doctor — Arrival at Kiwych — AVagogo AVar Horns sounding everywhere — Full Fighting Costume — A faUe Alarm — Khonzc Chief resists our Advance — Preparation for a Fight — Mnyamwczi seized by the Throat, and Peace restored — Arrival at Kan yenyi— Visit from the Sultan — The Village of Mapanga — Sudden Rush of Armed Natives — Forty Spears against Forty Guns — Tribute Demanded and Paid — Leucole's Account of Farquhar's Death — The Valley of the Mukondokwa — Privation from the Masika — Awful Floods — Fighting Swarms of Mosquitoes — The Doctor's Despatch-Box in Jeopardy — Dragged through tlie River by Ropes — Arrival at Simba- mwcnni —The Wall swept away — Terrific Storm — Destruction of One Hundred Villages — The Msunva Jungle — Its Horrors — "Hot-water " Ants — News from Zanzibar — Arrival at Bagamoyo — The meeting with the Livingstone Search and Relief Expe- dition r Pages GOB to G57 CHAPTER XVIL I 1. Pun l> A v A V -1. Sim 5. Disc fc ('). Sua The y. Moi D it. We 10. VlE' 11. Ma- 12. The 13. Seli 14. The 15. "Di IG. Qui? 17. At 18. 19. I Pot 20 Dk. 21 On ')•> "H I 23 . Ab 24 . Ai 25 . My 2C . Tn 27 . Syi 2g . "I VAl.KDlOTOUy Al'l'EXDlX . , Pages G58 to C92 . Pages G93 to 71 U 1. Vi 2. Po .3. W mmm t ^ore — Herds of L Herd of Giraffe ?ngo absconds — d into Bullets — Misonghi — The mbo famished— Death of Robert plet of Lions — T, Hamdallah — Pages 558 to GOT slnsion— Asmani ndy and replac- r. Livingstone — imes G. Bennett c — His Journal Halt at Tura — — Wagogo AVar )stume — A fali-o reparation for a cace restored — ho Village of Forty Spears 'aid — Leucole's Mukondokwa jilting Swarms n Jeopardy — al at Simba- Destruction Its Horrors — at Bagamoyo Eelief Exjie- Pages GOB to G57 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. f ull-pugc lUustrutions. ruuiuAiT OF Jamks Goruox Bkxxett, Esm A VIEW oi" Zanzibar o. A VIEW OF Bagamoyo 4. SlMBAMWKNNI "I'llE LlO , ClTV " 5. Discomforts of Afkicax TUAVi:!.— Tin; Makat; Swamp .... (!. SlIAW'h MODE OF MAKClUNCr (. The Lake and Peak of Uuumbo y. Mount Kibwe, and the Valley of the Mukon DOKWA ElVER .... 9. We attack Musambo 10. View of Kwihara 11. Ma-manyaha takes medicine 12. The mutiny on the Gombe IUveu 13. Selim, the Interpreter 14. The wounded boar comes to a halt 15. "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?'' IG. Our levAe at Magala, Uuundi 17. At the mouth of the llusizi IPOT-FOURRI — arms, IMPLEMENTS, AND PIPES lO.j 20. Dr. Livingstone at work on iiis journal 21. On Lake Tanganika— homeward bound 22. "He is shot! He is shot!" — shooting a bui FALo tow . , . 23. a surprise 24. a liox in the grass .... 25. My house in Kwihara, Unyanyembe 20. The Wagogo on the war path 27. Symptoms of a fight .... 28. " Look out ! You drop thai- box — I'll shoo you "...... to face lNTRODL'tT:ON. to face page 3 41 115 » » » » > > 135 152 154 f » > » > > > > » ) > » at pages 544 and 545 to fiice page 503 245 280 310 334 345 352 371 412 404 504 J > 5G7 580 002 012 032 030 ^'.1 Pages G58 to G92 Pages G93 to 719 ^mallei- ^illustrations. 1. View of Bagamoyo 2. Portrait of Bombay and IMabuuki . 3. Woman grinding corn PAcn 41 C'J 100 . y.,v •J. 10. 11. 12. i;:5. 14. 15. 10. 17. 18. 10. 20. 21. oo. 23. 24. L TST OF ILL USTIiA TIONS. roiiTnAiT or SiiAW and Fauquiiar Our camp at Cuunyo Mgogo max and woman . A gate ok a VILLAOt; Wkai'ons of war YoUTHFL'Ii WaSAGARA Bird'.s-kye view of a TiOiiu; View in front of my tkmek Group of Wanyamwezi . Gigantic sycamore and camp . View in Uvisza Village in Uzavira — native pottery Guu house in Uji.ti View on Lake Tanganika SUST, THE SERVANT OF LlVlNGsTONE UjIJI cow, UnYASIWEZI cow, PARIAH DOG, AND FAT-TAILED HHEEr The fishes of the Tanganika . An idol ..... Daggers and spear-heads OuB camp at Urimija Making the siost of a halt The Memorial ^Iap of Ka^tern Central Africa — Fiontispicce. Plan of Central Unyanyembe to face page 259. I'lan of water system in jiage 229. Ski.tch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 449. Survey of northern half of Tanganika to face page 475. Small sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 1. 552 556 558i 000 719 EREATA. 41 (;•_>, 14-' 1G() 171 ■2;J7 •245 3;50 .■J41 .'{70 ;fW ;i!ti 408 l;i.o tt passim, line &c. Sycd for /ilate Iksomoyo . 03 jHissiia O'Heilly et passim, line 13, &c. . Saruiian ■2'.' Ijiiughy . . . ]'.• quahiirv 10 (rol. ]).... :Miinieka . . 20 rc])rcsentnti(iu;; plate l^lukandokw.i . "23 N'f;henia )H 33 33 '2(1 staniiicd O'Kcilly . . its ... . beasts . has not spoken 3 iiiitrt^^oi" at btijliiu read . Seyd. . IJagamoyo. . Keilly. . Sarmean. . banghy. . Kwaheri. . JIunieka. . representatives. . IMukondokwa. . Ngcma. . tamped. . Hcilly. . his . reptiles. . has spoken. "*ht to the [common with almost all other men, believed to be dead, le door of Mr. - have you considered seriously the great expense you Ve likely to incur on account of this little journey ?" y* What will it cost ?" he asked, abruptly. J f* Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost ',ween £.3,000 and £5,000, and I fear it cannot be , AC under £2,500." L M .VI 'I 'r K.I1 I , ; I'! f^ I :ll ifl 1'! XVllI INTnODUCTORY. " Well, I will tell you wliat yoii will do. Draw a thoiisarAcl ^""nds now; n7)d when you have gone through > .1, draw another thousand, and when that is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have finished that, draw another thousand, and so on ; but, I'lND LI^'IXGSTONE. Surprised but not confused at the order, for I knew that Mr. Bennett when once he had made up his mind wfis not easily drawn aside from his purpose, I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and 00ns of the case ; I said, " I have heard that should your father die you would sell the ' Herald ' and retire from business." " Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not money enough in New York city to buy the * New York Herald.' My father has made it a great paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a news pajier in the true sense of the w^ord. I mean that it shall publish whatever news will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost." " After that," said I, " I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone ?" " No ! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first and then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt. Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for « ■** \I1 ich ho 1 do. Draw a )ii huvo gone md when that rlien you have nd so on ; but, der, for I knew de up his mind purpose, I yet scheme, that he id the pros and [ird that should raid ' and retire for there is not buy the ' New ; a great paper, I that it shall be s word. I mean II be interesting ing more to say. Africa to search iguration of the lie Nile. I hear !gypt. Find out .nd as you go up is interesting for f \ INTRODVCTOnr. x\x •* tourists ; and then write up a guide — a practical one — for Lower E,ti:y])t, tell us about whatever is worth seeing and how to see it. " Then you might as well go to Jerusalem ; I hear Captain Warren is making some interesting discoveries tliere. Then visit Constantinople, and find out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan. " Then — let me see — you might as well visit the Crimea and those old battle-grounds. Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea, I hear there is a Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence you may get through Persia to India ; you could write an interesting letter from Persepolis. " Bagdad will be close on your way to India ; suppose you go there, and write up something about the Eu- phrates Valley Railway. Then, when you have come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar ; but if not, go into the interior and find him, if alive. Get what news of his discoveries you can ; and, if you find he is dead, bring all possible proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be with you." " Good-night, sir," I said ; " what it is in the power ^f human nature to do I will do ; and on such an errand ^ I go upon, God will be with me." \l lodged with young Edward King, who is making ich a name in New England. He was just the man ho would have delighted to tell the Journal he was XX jxrnoDUCTOin: "M Mil I' 'i i| I' ;' 1 ,1 f .,1 1^1 '\ ci.gagcd upon wliat young Mr. Bennett was floi';;g, and what errand 1 was bound uj^on. I should liave liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable results of my journey, but I dared not do so. Though oppre.^sed with the great task before me, 1 had to appear as if only going to be present at the Suez Canal. Young King followed mo to the express-train bound for Marseilles, and at the station we parted — he to go, and read the newspapers at Bowles' Keading-room— I to Central Africa and — who knows ? There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central Africa. I went up the Nile, and saw Mr. Higginbotham, chief-engineer in Baker's Expedition, at Phila3, and was the means of preventing a duel between him and a mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Hig- ginbotham with pistols, because that gentleman re- sented the idea of being taken for an Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt. Warren at Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a sergeant of engineers to see the marks of the Tyrian workmen on the foundation stones of the Temple of Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister Eesident of the United States, and the American Consul General. I travelled over the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books for reference in my hand. I dined with the widow of General Liprandi at Odessa. I saw the Arabian tls INTnODUCTOnV. XXl was \/ IM f t! f <■ i 2'.) 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