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 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
M 
 
 ^- 
 
 A- 
 
MIDSHIPMAFS 
 
 FEW NOTES 
 
 EXTRACTED FROM THE 
 
 COCKPIT JOURNAL OF A MAN-OP-WAR ; 
 
 AND DBDIOATBD TO 
 
 SIR JAMES MATHESON, Bart., M.P.. 
 
 »T 
 
 THE AUTHOR. _^liij.,t C^^,,+,^ 
 
 Siondon: 
 
 J. D. POTTER, 31, POULTRY, 
 
 AND 11, KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 
 
 MDCCCLXII. 
 
S10.4 
 
 r 
 
 44.,*^ 
 
 ,.*%*.:.. 
 
EURYALUS; 
 
 TALES OF T H E S E A. 
 
 A FEW IliAVKS 
 
 FROM TlIK 
 
 IISSION) 
 
 DIARY OF A MIDSHIPMAN; 
 
 AVHICIi SMALT. VCHME „ nBD.CATEn (WITHOUT PKUMI 
 
 TO ONE 
 WHO, VmVHRSA..V BK.OVEn POH r„S BOCNXZPV. CHAU.TV. 
 MOST .CST.Y ADMIUKD roH H,8 abt;«i,a«T OENEKOSITV 
 AND HIS riBEHAL HOSPITALITT— 
 
 18 A FHIEND TO THE POOR, AND 
 
 A FATHER TO THE FATHERLESS— 
 
 SIR JAMES MATHESON, BART., MP., 
 
 AMONO WHOSE N.MEHO.S WELL-WISHERS, NONE MORE SINCERE 
 THAN THE AUTHOR OF THESE LEAVES. 
 
 1 i<M). 
 
 58 
 
 ^Z[^3 
 
 Prcjffo N. VV. History Dept. 
 
 Pi=^OV{N"ClAL LIBRARY ' 
 VlOTPpiA, B.Q. 
 
TO 
 
 ^iB, JAMES MATHE80N, 
 
 BART., AI.p. 
 
 DEAR SIR JAMES, 
 
 IN DEDICATING TO YOU THESE 
 FEW SCENES or .V WILD AND .O.THPUD DaVS, I TRUST 
 VOU WEL. ALLOW ME STILL TO SUBSCRIBE MVSELE 
 
 YOUR FRIEND, 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
wmmmm 
 
 ■■1 
 
PKKFACE. 
 
 In placing before immediate friends the incidents of a 
 ^lidshipman's life, the author feels that he has much 
 forgiveness to ask for so great an intrusiou on patience 
 and leisure hours. 
 
 Having, however, two very unselfish motives for so 
 doing, it gives him some encouragement, and even bold- 
 ness, in launching forth his little volume. 
 
 He has only to observe that, should any "r.autical 
 terms" here made use of appear inelegant to the reader, 
 they must be kindly passed over — never being intended 
 to offend. 
 
 He hopes he may also be excused for occasionally 
 giving way to his feelings (and, perhaps, he may imin- 
 tentionally get credit for an excess of g;dlantry). He 
 can assure his readers it is done only to illustrate the 
 sensitive henrt a sailor naturally possesses at all times, 
 and not introduced for the sake of being tliought 
 romantic. As they happened to him when a boy, so 
 they were then recorded in his Diary, and so they are 
 now transferred here. 
 
t 
 
 I 
 
TALES OF THE SEA. 
 
 Mks from tfee Jjarji of a amsppan. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 It was the most pressing portion of my father's advice 
 to me, on being first "launchclon the wide world of 
 waters," to "keep a journal"-if the day of the month 
 only, « to note it," and "never to let it fall into arrears." 
 I have often, very often, heard him say « he would give 
 worlds," anything he possessed, if he had written a 
 diary when young, which would have afforded him many 
 a pleasant hour of a wintry evening to have retraced 
 "byegone scenes," and "fought his old battles o'er 
 again." 
 
 " My boy," says he (a few hours before our first 
 parting), « I'll give you a five pound note* if you keep a 
 journal while you're at sea." I have done so, but need 
 I inform my readers that I have not yet the " five 
 pounds" ! but I have a far greater reward, the satisfac- 
 tion of having by my side, while I am endeavouring to 
 place before my readers the passing incidents of ten 
 years in a midshipman's berth (which embrace a vovaae 
 
 * A.n inducement to one on ^13 a year. 
 
ii 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 M 
 
 i ; 
 
 round the world, and in nearly all parts of the world) 
 I'hree Volumes, measuring four and a lialf inches in 
 thickness, of closely written pages — scenes as they daily 
 occurred ; and more, after the noisy bulkheads of a 
 Diid's berth and a hammock were forsaken for a gun- 
 room and cabin. I have a still larger volume more 
 closely written, from which I hope to gather some in- 
 structive notes, if these *' leaves" on finishing my 
 midshipman's career have not been found tedious or 
 unacceptable. 
 
 It was a very long time before I could be pereuaded 
 to place my notes in print; but as I saw that two objects 
 may be gained (neither of them selfish ones), I was in- 
 duced to give way. The first is to illustrate to my young 
 readers the many changes, uncertainties, and vicissitudes 
 there are in the life of a sailor; h:,vv it is chequered by 
 storm and by calm, by gladness and by sorrow ; and 
 liow he is watched and cared for in the mtmy hair- 
 breadth escapes he has from death by a merciful and 
 overruling Providence ! and how iruly it is said that 
 " Those who go down to the sea in ships and occupy 
 their business in great waters, these see the works of the 
 Lord and his wonders in the deep." 
 
 The second object is, an inducement to keep a diaiy. 
 The gratification every one of my young nautical readers 
 nmst have in keeping a journal for reference years and 
 years afterwards ; if written daily it is no trouble, but 
 if allowed to get into arrears then is the trial ! a great 
 deal is then left to the imagination, and a great deal 
 lost. I always wrote my diary before " turning in," if 
 the month, it was noted ; if a long yarn, 
 
 i 
 
 'ly 
 
 lay 
 
. INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ill 
 
 diaiy. 
 eaders 
 :s and 
 le, but 
 
 great 
 deal 
 111, if 
 
 yarn, 
 
 I had " half an hour's lights ;" if my first watch, then I 
 wrote it in pencil on a spare leaf of my watch bill, until 
 my "watch below." I never trusted to memory. 
 " Memory I found a fickle guardian/' and the moment 
 something interesting takes place, all gone before is lost 
 
 If every one at sea wrote a diary, or kept a journal, 
 what a store of useful and interesting matter we should 
 collect ! Although nothing *' but the blue sky" and 
 " green sea" to behold, I know no place or time more 
 fit for imagination and reflective thought, if those 
 thoughts were then committed to paper ; and nowhere 
 does man appear so alone with his Maker as on the wide 
 and trackless ocean ; and here is the spot for man to 
 contemplate the evidences of design of the great 
 Creator I 
 
 If it were possible to describe the pleasure and grati- 
 fication it affords me during leisure hours to open any 
 page of ray " three volumes," and read over byegone 
 scenes and hours, recalling to memo:ry events that could 
 never otherwise be thought of, I am convinced there 
 are many who would the moment these " leaves" are 
 unfolded to them, say, " I'm going to keep a journal," 
 and go forthwith and note down the day of the month 
 as a beginning. 
 
 I never seriously thought of pulling " leaves" from 
 my journal (although requested so to do) until long, 
 dreary, wintry evenings in a far north latitude became 
 wearisome ; it was then I did think it selfish to keep 
 hidden " scenes and incidents," which, if put in some- 
 what readable order, may while away an hour, at all 
 events on the water. 
 
IV 
 
 IiNTHODUCTION. 
 
 With this prelude, therefore, I do not perceive that it 
 is necessary to offer any apology for these "leaverf." 
 Truth needs none, and truth I intend to be the type of 
 my book. It is not my intention to make a novel of it. 
 Novels are easily written, easily concocted, and as easily 
 sought after. These " leaves" contain nothing of the 
 imagination, the incidents are noted daily, and truthfully 
 extracted; and now, having cleared the "ways" with 
 these few plain words, I knock away the ** dog shores" 
 from under my little volume, and " launch" it on the 
 world, having truth for its guiding star. , 
 
 On opening my MS. journal to extract the first " leaf," 
 I find tiie introduction says : — 
 
 " Dedicated solely to fond and attached parents. 
 
 " An imperfect and scattered diary of a midshipman 
 (their dutiful son), during a miserable existence of ten 
 years within the dreary bulkheads of a cockpit." 
 
 The object of the writer will be fully gratified should 
 the scenes and events of boyish days herein narrated 
 while away an occasional lone and dreary hour of a 
 wintry night. 
 
 " While pots and tiles and chimney tops are flying round, 
 Thank Providence, Bill, that you and I are sailors !" 
 
INDEX. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 • • * 
 
 I. to »v. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 Chap. 
 
 1 . Introduction to the Service 
 
 1 
 
 2. Madeira 
 
 ••• ••■ ••• • 
 
 8 
 
 3. Cape of Good Hope 
 
 4. India and China ... 
 
 ••• ••• •«• 
 
 19 
 
 26 
 
 5. China in War 
 
 ••• •■• •■• 
 
 31 
 
 6. Nankin 
 
 f .*. ••• • 
 
 43 
 
 7. Homeward Bound ... 
 
 • ■ * • • • • • • 
 
 .15 
 
 8. Sick Quarters 
 
 9. Outward Bound ... 
 
 ••• ■•• •(• I 
 
 67 
 
 76 
 
 10. Cape of Good Hope 
 
 11. China in Teace 
 
 ••• fl«* ••• 
 
 !•• ••• ••! 
 
 90 
 
 100 
 
 12. Tenang 
 
 13. Saturday Night at Sea 
 
 14. Homeward Bound 
 
 ••• f*a ••■ 
 
 PART II. 
 
 107 
 
 118 
 
 127 
 
 1. Jack on Shore 
 
 ... ... 
 
 140 
 
 2. Outward Bound ... 
 
 ... ... ... 
 
 147 
 
 3. The Galapagos 
 
 4. San Francisco 
 
 
 
 162 
 
 186 
 
 5. Mazatlan 
 
 ... ... ... 
 
 196 
 
 6. Lima 
 
 ... ... ... 
 
 207 
 
 7. Guayaquil 
 
 ... ... 
 
 213 
 
INDEX. 
 
 PART III. 
 
 Chap. 
 
 1. First Voyage North , 
 
 2. Petropavlovskoi 
 
 3. Second Voyage North 
 
 A Chapter by itself 
 
 4. GuRymas 
 
 5. The Casa Fuerte 
 
 6. Sandwich Isles 
 
 7. The Arctic Ocean 
 
 A Cliapter on Private Theatricals 
 
 8. Homeward Bound 
 
 Last. — St. Helena 
 
 
 Paffo 
 .. 219 
 
 
 .. 231 
 
 
 .. 241 
 
 
 .. 248 
 
 
 .. 262 
 
 
 .. 273 
 
 
 .. 285 
 
 
 .. 291 
 
 
 .. 299 
 
 
 .. 312 
 
 
 .. 323 
 
 
 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 
 Pago 5 line 10, 
 
 Jor 
 
 Potatos read 
 
 Potatoes. 
 
 . 8 
 
 1) Sj 
 
 ), 
 
 8tuddino;8 „ 
 
 studding-sails. 
 
 „ 60 
 
 „ 2), 
 
 » 
 
 washing „ 
 
 washings. 
 
 „ 79 
 
 „ 30, 
 
 )) 
 
 andc ongratulating read and congratulating 
 
 „ 96 
 
 „ 2, 
 
 » 
 
 togqery read 
 
 joggery. 
 
 ,,123 
 
 „ 7, 
 
 dele 
 
 very. 
 
 
 ,,138 
 
 „ 28, 
 
 after 
 
 I insert to. 
 
 
 ,,148 
 
 ,, 17, 
 
 Jor 
 
 form. Wo read foi'm, we 
 
 „ 15.5 
 
 „ 12 
 
 1, 
 
 Alinendral 
 
 „ Almandral. 
 
 ,,186 
 
 „ last 
 
 i> 
 
 atlioms 
 
 „ fathoms. 
 
 ,,188 
 
 ), n 
 
 » 
 
 flainer 
 
 „ flammer. 
 
 „ 198 
 
 ,. 14 
 
 ,1 
 
 temporarily 
 
 „ temporally. 
 
 ,,208 
 
 „ 21 
 
 deh 
 
 the comma. 
 
 
 . -JMtiiaifir hiUi 
 
 
Page 
 219 
 
 231 
 
 241 
 
 248 
 
 262 
 
 273 
 
 285 
 
 291 
 
 299 
 
 312 
 
 323 
 
 ?ratulating. 
 
•^v^h"- 
 
 ..=■■!. V 
 
t. 
 
 M|. 
 
 
 A 
 
 ■ m 
 
 i'i 
 
 I 
 
 t^ 
 
 rj 
 
 i**-. 
 
LEAVES 
 
 FROM TKB 
 
 DIARY OF A MIDSHIPMAN. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTKODUCTION TO THE SERVICE. 
 
 SAM SCOTT — Mr BO^ — ENTER THE NAVY — PIEST NIGHT ON BOARD 
 — APPLE-riE BED — DOCKYARD MATEYS — HOSPITALITY — 
 STRICT OFFICERS — FIRST REBUKE — SECOND DITTO — AT SEA. 
 
 " Cease, rude Boreas, blustering railer ! 
 List ye landsmen all to me ; 
 Messmates, hear a brother sailor 
 Tell the dangers of the sea." 
 
 The first extract from my Journal contains an 
 incident connected with " Sam Scott " the diver, who, it 
 will be recollected, afterwards accidentally suspended 
 himself while endeavouring to imitate (too nearly) the 
 struggles of a dying wretch on the gallows, during the 
 loud and continued applause of the multitude. When 
 they were exhausted they beheld to their horror that 
 he had imitated it too truly, not to life, but death I he 
 was a corpse ! 
 
 On the afternoon of the eventful day that I had been 
 t9 admire the " wooden wall of Old England " that was 
 
2 
 
 SAM SCOTT, 
 
 ! 
 
 in a short time to carry me from tlie land of my birth, 
 Sam Scott was to make a descent from the maintop- 
 gallant yard of a celebrated old Spanish line of battle 
 ship, and he was to fire two pistols and turn a somersault 
 while in the air. Thousands of persons assembled to 
 witness this extraordinary feat ; the working-men of 
 Her Majesty's Dockyard obtained either a half-holiday, 
 or were permitted to retire from work earlier than usual ; 
 the tide was low, but flowing fast ; and the patches of 
 mud held numbers endeavouring to get as near to Sam 
 as possible ; many were wet, myself among the number. 
 Sam appeared at the yard-arm ; all was intense anxiety, 
 silence, and suspense, for Sam had kept us two hours 
 later than was expected. Close by my side stood some 
 dockyard mateys ; some with a plane under their arms, 
 some saws, and some with adzes on their shoulders. 
 One of the latter who had been standing near me (over 
 our boots in water) was considerate enough to look 
 behind, to see his adze did not touch any one. While 
 so doing, Sam leaped : the dockyard matey saw nothing. 
 I never beheld a countenance so blank ! 
 
 By-the-bye, I forgot to introduce myself to my 
 readers, and this must be done to atone for the boyish 
 scenes and tricks that will occasionally be brought to 
 light, especially during the younger portion of my life. 
 
 You can imagine a youth (an Irish youth) just let 
 free from school, thirteen or fourteen years of age, long- 
 ing to go to sea, and expecting every post to bring the 
 acceptable letter. Sharp, cute, and thoughtful ; his 
 outfit already packed in his chest ; the gold band, dirk, 
 and brass buttons on top ; and in hourly expectation of 
 
FIRST ENTRY. 
 
 ist let 
 long- 
 
 ig the 
 ; his 
 dirk, 
 
 tion of 
 
 being sliipped ; rayther inclined to mischief (not unlike 
 every other boy destined for the salt sea) ; and there is 
 but one thing in his favour — he already keeps a Journal, 
 and Mr. Samuel Scott has the honour of occupying the 
 very first leaf. You now see in imagination the author 
 of these leaves. 
 
 About the middle of April, many years since, at 9'30 
 A.M., local mean time exactly, foimd me on board one of 
 Her Majesty's sliips, fitting out for the war in China. 
 At that eventful hour I paced the quarter-deck with 
 no small inward pride. On my walk forward I looked 
 up at the pendant that floated o'er me : on my return 
 aft I unconsciously found myself looking in the glass of 
 the poop windows, which reflected my gold band and 
 buttons. I there stood still and looked at myself, and 
 exclaimed, " Is it possible that I am at last a sailor ?" 
 I could have cried with joy. After being weeks, months, 
 and years, I may say, longing to be on board a '* man- 
 of-war," now duly and regularly installed, the very first 
 thing I do is to ask permission " to go on shore." 
 
 I find nothing of any very great interest noted, 
 although all was new and exciting to me, until my 
 " first night " on board a ship. This I cannot pass 
 without an attempt at description, although mine will 
 give but a faint outline of the reality of the scene. 
 
 I happened to be passing the evening on shore, indeed, 
 as well as all the rest of my messmates who had no 
 watch to keep continually did in the hospitable seaport 
 where we had the good fortune to fit out. Leaving the 
 scenes of gaiety early (eleven o'clock), on purpose that 
 I should enjoy the pleasures and prospects of my first 
 
 b3 
 
AI'PLK-PIK BED. 
 
 ir : 
 
 ii 
 
 night on board, I hurried down to the boat, and I well 
 recollect, and I say it to my shame, (wc could get plenty 
 of boats, but no one to pull them), we took one without 
 oars, and, althongh the tide was running out strong, we 
 managed to paddle her alongside with the wash-boards, 
 shall I confess it ? after we got out, wc let her go adrift. 
 Of course, next morning there was a row, but no per.son 
 knew who did it. ^Ve were too wicked to confess ; but 
 wc were not asked the question directly, or we should 
 have done so. On my way to the starboard gun-room 
 (we were then in a " hulk," and the port gun-room was 
 our mess place), I had to pass the port gun-room, and 
 on the dresser, or buffet, 1 saw laid out, comfortably 
 snoring, one of our young officers on his back, with a 
 tallow candle burning in his mouth, the wick about 
 three inches from his teeth. This, I was told afterwards, 
 was a " preventive for snoring." I gave it an extra 
 screw to steady it as I passed, and on I went to my 
 hammock. The cockpit was all quietness and slumbers ; 
 the sentry was walking faithfully at his post. I dis- 
 robed myself, and walked to my hammock, placed one 
 foot on the handle of the amputation-table drawers, my 
 left arm on my hammock, gave a spring, and jumped, 
 and, oh, horror of horrors ! I found myself in bed with 
 two muskets, (the bayonets fixed), a frying-pan, a sauce- 
 pan, gridiron, skewers — in short, all the cook's " present- 
 use-traps," which had been lent (not particularly new or 
 
 clean) to fit out the raid's mess of H.M.S. . This 
 
 is what is termed an "apple-pie bed," and this was my 
 first night on board a man-of-war. 
 
 We were allowed an hour for our ablutions in the 
 
DOCK Y A ill) MATKYS. 
 
 morning' ; not that we spent all that time in scrubbing 
 onrselvcs. I well recollect our great delight was to sit 
 in the ports after we had washed, with our basins in 
 hand, ready to capsize on the first unhappy dockyard 
 matey who came alongside. The mornings were rather 
 chilly (April), and I believe many of us washed and 
 used more soap, merely for the pleasure of lathering 
 these quiet and inoffensive men. I do not know why it 
 was, but wo had a great *' down on them ;" we also used 
 to collect potair>s from the steward's dinner stock, and 
 pelt these men most unmercifully. Once I recollect 
 hitting the coxswain on the thumb of the hand ho was 
 steering the boat with ; he reported the circumstance ; 
 there was an investigation ; but, as usual, we were tiot 
 found guilty 1 
 
 I now read, until the day of our final departure, 
 almost every page of my Journal remarking on the 
 hospitality, kindness, and attention of those by whom 
 we were surrounded during the three months we 
 were preparing and fitting for our long cmise. I would 
 wish to mention the names of several who would be at 
 once recognised by my naval friends; but this I cannot 
 do, as it would do away with my original intention of 
 naming none, then, none can be offended. 
 
 It was my good fortune, as well as those around me, 
 to have for a Captain one of the strictest and at the 
 same time one of the most just officers in Her Majesty's 
 navy. We all knew how we had to go "straight." (I 
 think there were fifteen youngsters on board.) We 
 well knew that if we turned to the right or to the left 
 from that straiglit path, wo should "])ut our foot in it," 
 
m 
 
 6 
 
 FIRST REBUKE. 
 
 
 V 
 
 and we soon found it more easy and more pleasant to 
 go that direct road, than by an indirect one. 
 
 Wc had one of the kindest and most gentle com- 
 manders ; in spirit a lion, in heart a lamb ; amiable and 
 officer-like, but strict on duty. Our First Lieutenant a 
 pattern of a sailor. My young readers will therefore 
 conclude that our schooling was good, and I do not 
 believe one of those fifteen ever regretted it. 
 
 Our ship was ready for sea, and we were taken to a 
 far off anchorage, to make our final arrangements for 
 starting nnd wean us from the shore ; and while here, 
 our good-natured commander allowed us a boat every 
 evening to pull round the harbour, and learn our first 
 duties in " managing boats, under oars and sails." 
 
 By this time I was fast learning the " ins and outs," 
 and the " ups and downs " of a ship in all her mystery, 
 and indeed there is a great deal to be learned ; moments 
 of thoughtlessness, liowever, sometimes occur, and in one 
 of these I subjected myself to a severe (as I felt it) 
 rebuke. 
 
 During a fine evening some of my young school- 
 fellows had come on board to say ' Adieu,' and in my 
 anxiety and hurry to welcome them, I had forgotten my 
 cap, on coming up our good commander was pacing the 
 quarter-deck, and gathering himself up with a degree of 
 astonishment, placing his thumbs in the armholes of his 
 waistcoat, and throwing tack his coat, says, *' you'll 
 catch cold sir," " Oh no sir 1 " I replied. " I think you'll 
 take cold," says he. " Oh no sir ! " I answered, " I'm ac- 
 customed to knock about without a hat." " Then," he 
 remarked, " if you won't take a hint sir, go below and 
 
SECOND DITTO. 
 
 put your cap on, and never let me see you on the 
 quarter-deck again without one," the hint was to me then, 
 unmistakeable enough. 
 
 A few evenings after this, I was again in grief, and 
 convinced me how many things I had yet to learn re- 
 specting the etiquette of a vessel of war, and how 
 ignorant I still was. I was comfortably and leisurely 
 leaning with both arms on the hammock netting, con- 
 templating Tbj future state, what I should do in this 
 world, and if ever it would be possible for me to be a 
 Captain, when I was puddenly aroused by a voice I well 
 knew, asking '' if he (the Captain) should send his 
 steward up with a pillow for me to lean on ;" that was 
 quite sufficient, I paced the deck without venturing a 
 reply. > . > ■ 
 
d 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 SCENES AT SEA. 
 
 MADEIEA — DON FRITTOS — OPEN HOITSE — NEARLY LEFT BEHIND — 
 PUNISHMENT — A MAN OVERBOARD — CROSSING THE LINE. 
 
 O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea, 
 Our thoughts as boundless, and our souls as free, 
 Far as the breeze can bear, the billows foam. 
 Survey our empire, and behold our home ! 
 These are our realms, no limits to their sway, 
 Our flag the sceptre, all who meet obey ; 
 Ours the wild life, in tumiilts still to range, 
 From toil to rest, and joy in every change. 
 
 Corsair. 
 
 The day arrived for our sailing, and on a lovely 
 summer morning we beat out against a sea breeze, in 
 company with another vessel of war, om* own size, but 
 having left her far behind, a land wind took the place of 
 the sea breeze, and all studdings were set, and we bade 
 adieu to Old England for the first time, many of our 
 hearts sad indeed, until sea sickness compelled us to take 
 refuge in some secluded corner, where all else was for- 
 gotten, glad only to find a place to rest our heads. 
 
 The trip to Madeira, was one of real pleasure, a fair 
 wind and a smooth sea, and in reality nothing to do, as 
 
MADEIRA. 
 
 9 
 
 
 the old saying is, but " sit down and let the wind blow you 
 along." 
 
 We entered Funchal Roads, Madeira, early on a 
 Sunday morning, and it certainly was sufficient to make 
 any one declare they could be nothing else but a sailor, 
 the scene was most enchanting ; we had been trans- 
 ported in a short week from a cold and chilly clime to all 
 the warmth and luxuriance of the trop.es. 
 
 It is not my intention to enter into a description of 
 this or any other place, where so mi ny more able pens 
 have already traced its beauties, but there are one or 
 two " little " incidents which occurred to mc on shore, 
 which I consider would be a lost leaf in my Diary if I 
 allowed them to pass unnoticed. 
 
 Several young fellows, including myself, visited the 
 shore, of course the first foreign ground we had seen, 
 and, midshipman like, *' jumped over a rivulet " and 
 "threw a stone," which every midshipman does on landing, 
 or used to do — I trust they are more refined now. We 
 had walked over all the town, peeped into the chapels 
 and the convents, looked at the Padres with surprise, 
 and purchased some feather flowers from the nuns through 
 the bars, had taken some country strolls, and drank 
 cheap wine at several huts and vineyards, and were on 
 our return to the ship, when we were met by a fashion- 
 ably dressed, and far too polite Portuguese, who handed 
 us a card, having on it : — 
 
 Don FRrrxos, 
 
 No. Rua de 
 
 Madeira. 
 
 and pressed us all to a visit at his dwelling, to which ho 
 
10 
 
 DON FRITTOS. 
 
 ! 
 
 1:^! 
 
 I 
 
 ! II 
 
 conducted us, and to which, heing young midship- 
 men, we said " yea," rather than " nay," that is, much 
 pressing was not necessary We entered an exceedingly 
 nice house, cool, and surrounded by clusters of grapes, 
 hanging even inside the windows; we thought it un- 
 commonly kind, and more than once said to each other, 
 *• well, this is enjoyment, this is worth coming to sea for." 
 We had spread before us deliciously cool melons, grapes 
 of many sorts, varieties of other fruits, and varieties of 
 cooled wines, and to complete, one daughter entered the 
 room, was introduced, and immediately went to the 
 piano; a second entered, went through the same cere- 
 mony, and took up her guitar; both commenced charming 
 us : the time passed too quickly, and although we were 
 * mids.,' we had a little innate modesty, and the same 
 feeling occurred to each more than once, this is so kind, 
 we won't eat or drink much, although the fruit was 
 tempting, and the cool wine more so ; our time had 
 passed, and we rose to depart. Each cast a glance at 
 the other, a glance not to be misunderstood, are we to 
 pay for this ? and who is to propose the question ? a very 
 delicate question indeed. Our host left the room while 
 we were deliberating, but soon again entered, and allayed 
 all our fears and anxieties, by placing before us : — 
 
 To Don Frittos, Rua de , Madeira, 
 
 Fruit and Wines for seven . . 18 pistreens* 
 
 Paul, I). Frittos. 
 
 " Adios !" said he, " happy to see you all again soon.'* 
 Many of my young messmates, sliould this ever fall 
 
 * A pi.-{rcpn is ti'n})oncc. 
 
OPEN HOUSE. 
 
 11 
 
 into their hands, will well recollect the circum- 
 stance. 
 
 The music, I must add, wasg^-atis. . , 
 
 The next day many of us dined at the most liberal and 
 hospitable table in Madeira, it is well known to whom I 
 allude, by all who visit that lovely Island. I don't for- 
 get what surprise I felt at seeing a huge pinnacle of 
 " iced strawberries," brought on the table after dinner ; 
 I could not then have thought it possible that such a 
 dish could have been raised in so warm a temperature. 
 But I do not either forget my surprise and astonishment 
 when we went to walk on the house after dinner, to see 
 my ship with all sail set, leaving the land as fast as the 
 light evening breeze would allow her; I snatched up my 
 cap, forget if I said adieu, rushed to a boat, and after 
 pulling sometime, picked up my vessel nine miles from 
 the land ; in my haste, 1 forget if I was reprimanded, no 
 doubt I was, but in the excitement forgot it all. 
 
 I shall have many more pleasant reminiscences to 
 narrate about Madeira ; I have been there three times 
 since, under more favourable circumstances — have not 
 accepted Mr. Frittos' pressing invitations any more, but 
 have always received the same pressing hospitality from 
 those whose names it is unnecessary to mention, but 
 whom all sailors know so well. 
 
 It was my duty to witness, for the first time, punish- 
 ment in the navy : three men had been found guilty of 
 drunkenness, and sentenced to receive three dozen lashes 
 each, with a cat'o-nine tails, on the bare back. 
 
 The day is fixed for punishment according to circum- 
 stances and convenience. At six bells, 1 1 a.m., the 
 
12 
 
 PUNISHMENT. 
 
 boatswain is ordered to pipe " clear up decks " (this is 
 half an hour sooner than usual) ; the officer of the 
 watch is informed there is to be " punishment ;" he 
 directs the mate of the watch to inform the ward-room 
 officers, and the mid. of the watch to inform the gun- 
 room officers. The master-at-arms and corporals are 
 directed to see the prisoners dressed properly and placed 
 under a guard ; the carpenters are ordered to rig the 
 gratings, to which the culprits are to be seized up ; the boat- 
 swain and his mates to see the " cats " and the "seizings" 
 ready. The officers all dress in undress coats and epau- 
 lettes, cocked hats, and swords; at seven bells (half- 
 past eleven), the mate of the watch reports the time to 
 the commander, the commander to the Captain, who says, 
 *' strike it," and "pipe hands to punishment;'* the com- 
 mander sends for the boatswain, and orders him to " pipe 
 hands to punishment," to which his mates respond, and 
 at the same time the sentiy is desired to " strike the bell;" 
 a few minutes previous to this, the marine officer sees the 
 guard on deck, and reports it so. 
 
 At the time that the hoarse and gruff voices of the 
 boatswain anr his mates call "hands to punishment," 
 all the officers and men in the ship appear on the quarter- 
 deck, the prisoners are brought before the Captain who 
 reads to them (every one with his hat off) the warrant 
 for punishing, which contains every particul?: of the 
 offence noted and signed by the officers who make the 
 complaint and the witnesses ; hats are all put on again 
 and the Captain says " strip," this order obeyed, is fol- 
 lowed by " seize him up" which is instantly done by the 
 quarter-masters ; when tins is finished the man's shirt is 
 
PUNISHMENT. 
 
 13 
 
 thrown over his back by the master-at-arms, when all 
 hats being again taken off, the Captain reads the Article 
 of war which the prisoner has broken and for which he 
 must be punished; all hats are again placed, the shirt is 
 withdrawn from the back and the boatswain who always 
 gives the first dozen is ordered by the Captain to " do his 
 duty." If the man is to be punished for theft, a * thief^ cat', 
 which is knotted at the end of each tail, is used; if other- 
 wise, plain tails. After the tails are placed out, in order 
 that they may be the same length and no twists in them, 
 the boatswain lifts the cat and inflicts the first lash, when 
 the master-at-arms counts " one" aloud, the surgeon and 
 assistants stand close to the prisoner in order to report to 
 the Captain if the man can bear his punishment ; after the 
 first dozen lashes, the Captain says, " boatswain's-mate" 
 who also gives his dozen, and then a third, when the Cap- 
 tain says ** cast him off." The others then take their 
 punishment in the same order; after it is all over, the 
 Captain orders the " pipe down ;" the prisoners are taken 
 to the sick berth where the doctor administers to their 
 sores, they are then placed under charge of a guard until 
 evening, when they are dismissed. 
 
 I have seen some men take their three and four do7jn 
 lashes without a murmur, others I have heard crv and 
 scream, and swear in a most awful manner ; s^me put 
 a bullet in their mouths, and after punishr^ent is over 
 it is bruised to atoms : they fancy it alleviates the 
 pain. 
 
 The fall of the cat with the hep,y arm of the boatswain 
 makes a truly horrible souru on the bare back, which 
 when over is crossed •lud cut in all ways, and the back 
 
m 
 
 MAN OVERBOAHD. 
 
 I 
 
 1 1 111 
 
 ill.'i 
 
 then resembles raw beef, more than the back of a human 
 creature. 
 
 I never can forget the deep impression that witnessing 
 the first punishment had upon me, I thought it so out- 
 rageous, so inhuman, so cmel, so unnecessary. I have 
 since learned human nature ! and it has convinced me 
 how impossible to command or govern hundreds of men 
 (the ship I was then in had upwards of 700) of all 
 tempers, of all dispositions, from all places, of all callings 
 and characters, brought together indiscriminately into 
 the small space of a ship, without something that they 
 will fear, and if laid aside no officer is safe on board his 
 own vessel ; it may be used as a last resource, but never 
 altogether done away with. 
 
 I have not before seen in any book the detail of 
 ** punishment" on board a man-of-war, and I have here 
 endeavoured, as well as I can recollect, to illustrate to 
 those who may be ignorant on this point, that there is a 
 regular system to be observed, and forms gone through, 
 before punishment takes place ; and that it is not, as 
 many suppose and believe, inflicted in a moment at the 
 caprice and temper of the Captain or Commanding 
 Officer, but with deliberate care, for the benefit, dis- 
 cipline, and good order of England's glory — her Navy ! 
 "A MAN OVERBOARD! ! !" 
 
 Of all the exciting appalling cries at sea to which the ear 
 is compelled to listen, that of a man overboard claims the 
 most energetic and immediate action ; none strikes the heart 
 with more sudden awe, and none know but those who 
 have heard that dismal cry what a thrill of excitement it 
 causes ; it has been my sad lot to witness this very often. 
 
 l^. 
 
MAN OVERHOARD. 
 
 15 
 
 and to imagine the voice of Him who watches over all, 
 call on them at a moment when they least expected, 
 " Now is thy soul rerjuired of thee." 
 
 The first time I witnessed a fatal scene of this descrip- 
 tion was on a fine day within the tropics; we were 
 " running d jwn the N. E. Trades," between the Cape 
 Verd and Canary Isles, all sail on, the vessel going 
 thro' the water about four or five knots; every one was at 
 their daily occupation and a party scrubbing the ship's 
 side as it was Saturday, when the cry went through the 
 ship a " Man overboard 1" 
 
 It is fortunate that throughout the service even dur- 
 ing a trying scene of this description that all is regular- 
 ity, order and discipline, instead of every one (700) rush- 
 ing to the ship's-side and boats to see what they may do. 
 All at this moment go to their stations, where they have 
 been long before appointed, some to shorten and trim 
 sails, some to man the boats, one to the life-buoy, which 
 is at once let go, others to the helm, and some aloft to 
 keep their eye on the man ; the ship is now ready for 
 any evolution, and it is now that the nerve and decision 
 of the officer of the watch is required ; before an instant 
 had elapsed, the ship was rounded to, sail shortened, two 
 boats lowered, one dashing fellow (who I regret to say is 
 now no more) had jumped off the poop, and another 
 gallant fellow had jumped out of a port, risking 
 their lives to save that of a fellow creature. 
 They were all late ! for the unfortunate boy had sunk at 
 once, and was never seen again. Thus in latitude 2° 
 north, and in longitude 16° west, is the grave of a youth 
 who, though only a first-class boy, was married, and left 
 
( 
 
 i^ 
 
 16 
 
 ("RoSSIXO THR LIXE. 
 
 11 
 
 a wife and two cliildren to mourn their loss ; and thus he 
 was " called " without a moment's warning, to meet his 
 Maker face to face, and give an account of his past life. 
 
 After an hour's vain search, the boats were hoisted 
 up, sail made, and the ship again running on her course. 
 
 All wore now busily employing themselves for crossing 
 the line ; some making wigs, rigging out 'Neptune's 
 carriage', preparing pills and smelling bottles, sharpen- 
 ing razors, and the barbers trimming off the " Bond 
 Street locks " of the boys, &c. 
 
 The evening before crossing the I'.ne, Neptune paid 
 his children a visit at eight o'clock. We, the uniniti- 
 ated, were called up on deck. The ship was hailed by 
 Neptune, " Ship ahoy 1 " to which the officer of the 
 watch replied, and immediately shortened sail and hove 
 to. Other questions were asked by the god of the sea, 
 such as, " Where are you from ? " " How many days 
 out ? "and ** Where are you bound ? "to all of which replies 
 were given. He then came on board, surrounded by 
 attendants, and with torches lighted. The irstant he 
 put his foot on deck, (all of course endeavouring to 
 got as near as possible,) down came showers of water 
 from the tops, which were fall of men with buckets, engine 
 hoses, &c., playing away on us, until every one was 
 drenched, squirting water in our eyes and faces till we 
 could not see where we were, or where to go. This 
 continued about half-an-hour, when Neptune, after in- 
 forming us that to-morrow he would " pay his respects," 
 left the ship in a blazing tar barrel, which was not lost 
 sight of for some time. The ship then made all sail and 
 resumed her course. . 
 
C'ROSSINO THE LINK. 
 
 17 
 
 It is not my intention now to occupy pages with a 
 description of " crossing tiie line," wliich has so often 
 and so vividly appeared before, but one or two incidents 
 w hich happened to myself may be noted here. 
 
 Wo were all busily and anxiously looking out next 
 mornin<]f with our spy-glasses for the '* line." 
 
 Neptune arrived at ten. The pendant was hauled 
 down, and the ship handed over to his tender mercies. 
 
 It came to my turn. I was brought up by four " police" 
 from the lower deck, where 370 of us had been secured 
 who had not before passed through the ordeal. Before 
 coming on deck, a wet swab, tarry and greasy, not very 
 clean, was placed over my mouth, and around my neck, 
 to prevent my '* getting cold." On arriving on deck, I 
 was asked my name, and on opening my mouth to 
 immediate obedience, a tar brush was put into it, not of 
 tar alone, but all manner of indescribable mixtures. I 
 was led to the platfonm, where I was seated before 
 Neptune, who asked " how 1 felt ? " In attempting to 
 reply, the tar brush was insinuated again. The lather 
 commenced, of the same mixture, grease, tar, &c., put 
 on with something very harsh ; the razor, an iron hoop, 
 jagged, was applied ; the doctor observed, I was rather 
 faint, and the smelling bottle, (a cork with several sail- 
 needles,) recommended, which revived me. I was asked 
 several questions during the operation, but had now 
 learnt to keep my mouth shut. After I had been 
 shaved, I felt a gentle pressure on my breast, and an 
 elevation of my heels ; I was thrown back into a sail 
 full of water, six feet deep, where four " bears" were in 
 attendance, growling, roaring, pawing, and hugging me 
 
 
 
t 
 
 
 18 
 
 <H()HSIN(> TlIK IJNK. 
 
 I 
 
 about under water, until I coultl scarcely breathe, indeed 
 several times I took in both air and water, which was 
 anything; but pleasant ; about this time too, the bears 
 began to f:;et somewhat merry and careless, merry, on 
 the collections they had made from several who were 
 assured a few days previously, that if they came with a 
 " straight arm," that is, with a bottle of rum in it, they 
 were sure to be '* eased off" most gently ; need I assure 
 my young readers that those did meet with the greatest 
 attentiorif and were heartily well scraped and soused for 
 being "so green." After having passed through my 
 ducking, I was permitted to jom those who hnd the 
 privilege of shaving, and I now beheld Neptnne and his 
 wife in all their glory, seated on a carriage, loaning on 
 his trident in solemn dignity Upwards of 370 
 passed through their ordeal that day. The ensign was 
 again hoisted before sunset, and Her Majesty's ship once 
 more on her voyage. There are many most amusing 
 occurrences connected with " shaving," but they are all, 
 I have no doubt, well known. All I can vouch for is, 
 that some who were rather " rusty " were served out 
 most unmercifully ; others were " eased off." Tlie 
 logs and journals of those who said they " had crossed 
 before," were most minutely examined and enquired 
 into, and I am sure not one escaped ; and as I have 
 said before, \ipwards of 370 were that day shaved on 
 crossing tliu Equator. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 ROAD TO CAPE TOWN— CHINA NEWS — AWFUL ACCIDENT — FUNERAL 
 AT SEA — EVENING BAND— OALE OF WIND — MALACCA— SINGU- 
 LAR OCCURRENCE. ^ 
 
 Between this and the Cape of Good Hope, where wo 
 arrived exactly one month afterwards, nothing worthy of 
 note occurred ; and we dropped anchor in Simon's Bay, 
 which appears to us during this season the most deso- 
 jlate, wild, and dreary spot imaginable. 
 
 Here every midshipman drives his " tandem." A long 
 handy road on the water's edge of 25 miles nearly 
 carries you to Capo Town, the capital of the Colony. 
 Che greater part of the road being sand on the left, and 
 rater on the right, enables the unsteady mid. to guide 
 lis " tandem " without fear. I never heard of any fatal 
 iccident except the inconvenience of getting horses and 
 trap into the quicksands, which are in almost every 
 lly, and then having to walk back some miles. 
 This road takes you, after passing the noted half- 
 ray-house of " Farmer Peck," through the attractive 
 id Englified villages of Wineberg and Constantia, 
 Ihe latter famous for its delicious wines and grapes, the 
 
 C2 
 
h1^ 
 
 \ 
 
 20 
 
 OIIINA NEWS. 
 
 former for being the country residence of several wealthy 
 people of Cape Town, who ure most kind and attentive 
 to strangers, if they are fortunate enough to know them, 
 or to obtain an introductory letter to their houses. 
 
 I shall have reasons to speak of these places, by-and- 
 bye, from experience, having had already five or six visits 
 to the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 Here on our arrival, we had China news informing 
 us of its still unsettled state, and which urged us to 
 hasten our departure so as to enjoy some of the rewards 
 and benefits of the war. The moment the weather, 
 which was a continuous S.E. gale, lulled, we put to sea, 
 and we had not departed many days before " Sail ho ! " 
 was descried direct from China, not only confirming our 
 former news, but giving us much more recent. 
 
 SAIL HO ! 
 
 " Wlien o'er the silent seas alone, 
 
 For days and nights we've cheerless gone, 
 O they who've felt it, know how sweet. 
 Some sunny m'>rn a sail to meet." 
 
 So eager were we all to be let loose like the " dogs of 
 war," that most of our spare hours were passed in sharp- 
 ening and brightening our swords and dirks with holy- 
 stones and brickdust, and oiling the locks of our pocket- 
 pistols. Alas I there is seldom a pleasure without a 
 sorrow I and we were now unwilling spectators of another 
 awful instance of sudden death, another appeal to one 
 who had not an instant for preparation. 
 
AWFUL ACCIDENT. 
 
 21 
 
 We were all pacing the deck a few days after leaving 
 Cape Town, talking over our young and gay, but 
 thoughtless scenes, while they were yet fresh in our 
 memories ; our impressions and our feelings passing from 
 one to the other, the evening fine and not a stir but the 
 flapping of the sails against the masts, waiting for a 
 breeze ; when one of our smartest and best sailors fell 
 from the main-top, his head striking on the bits, dash- 
 ing his brains out ; his death was instantaneous ; another 
 of the sudden visitations from Him who holds our lives 
 within his grasp. Here was no warning, no preparation, 
 no anticipation of such an event. Does not this teach 
 us a lesson ? In an instant — Eternity ! 
 
 The next evening at sunset, when everything was 
 calm and silent, and all around seemed hushed in stillness, 
 as if prepared for the melancholy moment, the bell 
 tolled, the lifeless remains of our lamented shipmate were 
 brought to the gangway, the funeral service read over 
 his body, and when the words were repeated, "we there- 
 fore commit his body to the deep," he was launched into 
 the fathomless waters ; a chilling thrill of horror ran thro' 
 every frame, not a trace was to be seen, but a few 
 bubbles, which arose from the seaman's grave. I cannot 
 resist quoting the following lines, they so well describe 
 the awful solemnity of a sailor's funeral. 
 
 I. 
 
 The moon rode high in the cloudless sky, 
 The ship o'er the billows rolled, 
 When silent and slow we bore from below 
 The corpse of our shipmate Jack. 
 
22 
 
 FUNERAL AT SEA. 
 
 On the grating placed, in his hammo k laced, 
 The ensign floated o'er him, 
 
 We thought of hia worth, but no words found birth 
 To tell the love we bore him. 
 
 III. 
 
 We weighted him well with shot and shell 
 
 That far beneath the wave. 
 
 His sleep might be secure and free. 
 
 In the deep, deep coral cave ! 
 
 IV. 
 
 Awhile we stood in musing mood. 
 Then launched him o'er the side. 
 And we moiirnfuUy took a parting look 
 As he sunk in the dark blue tide. 
 
 V. 
 
 Some bubbles arose from his place of repose, 
 And as quickly for ever fled. 
 We shed but one tear, yet that was sincere. 
 One sigh for the honored dead. 
 
 vr. 
 
 Let the sea-bird wail, and the stormy rail. 
 And the roar of the ocean's wave, 
 Sung deep and long a funeral song 
 O'er the seaman's trackless grave. 
 
 i 
 
 This melancholy event took place on the anniversary 
 
 These lines are, if I remember right, from Dibdin'sSea Songs. 
 
GALE OF WIND. 
 
 23 
 
 of the battle of Navarino, and the funeral on that of the 
 battle of Trafalgar. 
 
 The sooner these melancholy events are forgotten on 
 board a ship the better ; a sailor leading so peculiarly 
 isolated and solitary a life, it is part of a captain's duty 
 to keep their spiriid up, and not to allow them to de- 
 spond. This is generally done I believe, and it is astonish- 
 ing, tho' through no want of love or respect for the de- 
 parted, how soon everything is forgotten, and an hour 
 afterwards Jack is passing his joke, as if life were all 
 births and no deaths. 
 
 Our good commander, always anxious that our time 
 should pass pleasantly, has allowed us the band every 
 fine evening to have our dances on deck ; it passes au 
 hour or two agreeably, it affords us exercise, and 
 temporal enjoyment, and between the Cape and China 
 we have had many a jolly evening, although deprived of 
 almost the only source of enjoyment, the "fair;" as it is 
 said, "none but the brave deserve the fair," I am 
 sure if they could only see us whetting our swords all 
 hours of the day, and preparing for action it would be 
 sufficient to command their smile of approbation. 
 
 The first gale at sea after a ship's commission puts all 
 to rights, and puts everything in its place ; " all settles 
 down," but we would rather dispense with the gale, for 
 besides putting everything in its place, many things are 
 displaced, and we all personally suffer in broken 
 glass and broken crockery, and sometimes broken 
 bones. I shall not forget our first gale, scudding under 
 a reefed fore-sail and a storm-staysail, about 50 or 60 
 miles north of St. Paul's and Amsterdam, in the South 
 
 ..V 
 
34 
 
 A CJALK. 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 Seas, all ports barred in, and all hatches battened down, 
 every coming sea threatening to overwhelm us, ham- 
 mock nettings washed away, sashes stove in, and no- 
 thing but a wind- sail giving ventilation to hundreds of 
 unhappy beings, sea-sick between decks. A body had 
 been passed and several casks and portions of wreck, 
 telling how some had suffered. It is in the midst of 
 these scenes that a sailor looks back to home, regrets he 
 ever was so rash as to leave it, would give all he pos- 
 sessed to be landed even on a rock where he would feel 
 steady. 'Tis now that "men see the works of the Lord 
 and His wonders in the deep ;" it is now they are con- 
 t^inced of the existence, (if they doubted it before,) of a 
 Being everywhere present ; it is now they " fly to Him for 
 refuge." "They stagger too and fro like drunken men 
 and are at their wits' ends." "They call unto the Lord 
 in their trouble, and He delivers them out of their dis- 
 tress." "They are carried up to the heavens and down 
 again to the earth, their souls melt within them I " 
 It is now that the mighty hand of Providence may be 
 seen following us, and protecting our frail bark from 
 every threatening wave, until we are brought safely to a 
 "haven where we would be," or left in such tranquility 
 that we forget we were ever in a storm. 
 
 The ship is now approaching the Straits of Malacca, 
 and we know it because of the frequent thunder and 
 lightning with heavy rains and squalls for which these 
 Straits are so proverbial; we are visited during these 
 gusts, when off the land, by handsome king-fishers, 
 white and black, (spotted,) grey on the back, and much 
 larger than the common English bird, but siuiilar in 
 
SINGULAR OCCUllKENCE. 
 
 25 
 
 ^ened down, 
 n us, ham- 
 in, and no- 
 lundreds of 
 ^ body had 
 
 of wreck, 
 le midst of 
 
 regrets he 
 all he pos- 
 would feel 
 P the Lord 
 y are con- 
 fore,) of a 
 Him for 
 iken men 
 
 the Lord 
 their dis- 
 md down 
 
 them ! " 
 ■ may be 
 rk from 
 fely to a 
 tnqiiility 
 
 form and habits ; these are welcome visitors after being so 
 long at sea, and it affords us amusement catching them 
 for one of our officers, who prides himself on taxidermy. 
 
 We had entered the Straits, the "Piratical Straits," and 
 were compelled to anchor for the night, it being danger- 
 ous to move about dming such heavy squalls, and dur- 
 ing such vivid thunder and lightning, to which all sail 
 had to be shortened frequently, therefore we lay snug 
 for the night, and I forgot to say in company with one 
 of Her Majesty"'s Ships from China. 
 
 During the night rather a strange occurrence took 
 ])lace, which nearly proved fatal to one of our warrant 
 officers : perhaps he had been drinking Her Majesty's 
 health, perhaps not; however, he was walking along the 
 forecastle, as he thought, and intended to go into the 
 head, when instead of being on the forecastle, he was on 
 the main-deck, and went out of the bow port, and 
 brought up on the " cat hook," which was overhauled 
 for **catting the anchor," next morning ; had he not 
 fortunately hooked on to this, nothing could have saved 
 him, he would have descended quietly into the stream, 
 and no person would ever have been able to have nar- 
 rated the final act of this deluded warrant officer I 
 
 ^lalacca, 
 Jer and 
 :-'h these 
 g these 
 -fishers, 
 d much 
 lilar in 
 
H 
 
 
 ill i 
 
 ill 'S 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 INDIA AND CHINA. 
 
 SINGAPOBE — BtrOGIES — PALIAWAN PASSAGE — N.E. MONSOON — A 
 BEGULAR MESS — MY FIB8X PUNISHMENT — A 8HABK — STEAMEB 
 IN DISTBESS — nONG KONG CHBISTMAS DAY. 
 
 I«i 
 
 Orang Malayu t' ada jadi baik lagi, bagitu bagitu juga sa-lalu. 
 
 Arrived safely at Singapore, an island only a few 
 miles north of the Equator. The ship had a thorough 
 refit preparatory for the trial we were to have of beating 
 up the China Sea against a fierce N.E. Monsoon. 
 
 This delay gave us many opportunities of walking 
 round the place and seeing the customs and manners of 
 the two countries, which makes the island half Indian 
 and half Chinese, with a dash of Malay, and gives one 
 a very good idea of both the former. Many a dollar 
 was here squandered in " Buggies," neat four-wheeled 
 cars, drawn by smart Timor ponies. The midshipmen 
 could not walk : they must ride. Certainly, the sun 
 was oppressively hot. 
 
 I could hardly reconcile myself to the fact that we 
 were at war with those people by whom we were then 
 surrounded. The first merchant in Singapore is a China- 
 
PALLAWAN PASSAGE. 
 
 27 
 
 man ; and a fine round-faced, laughing, hospitable, and 
 honest fellow he is. He is well known to all sailors 
 who have been here ; if you wish to taste curried 
 prawns and cool claret to perfection take a walk to his 
 country house. 
 
 Sailed from Singapore with at first a fresh and favour- 
 able wind, but to which we gradually shortened and 
 reefed sails as we approached the limits of the Monsoon. 
 It was an intricate and dangerous passage to attempt, 
 especially the Pallawan passage, so little known. Here 
 the boiling " Rob Roy" shoal, and the " Royal Captain ;" 
 there the " Sovereign," with the sea beating and roaring 
 over it in all its fury; but we still felt we had a "Watch- 
 ful Pilot," our " Guide," who had already brought us 
 out of many dangers into safety. 
 
 I have said before we were kept strict and straight at 
 our duties on deck. I must also add we were kept in 
 right and tight order in our mess, the gun-room. "We 
 had a senior Mate whose look was sufficient to strike 
 terror into every one of us, and a caterer who would 
 scarcely allow us the fumes of wine, and certainly not 
 even the look of spirits, and who made us each assist 
 him in a portion of the work which devolved on him 
 as caterer. Punctually at one-bell (half-past eight) the 
 " fork was stuck in the beam," and we all (youngsters 
 who had not been four years at sea) closed our books 
 and retreated to our hammocks, without even a look of 
 disappointment — we knew what we should catch if we 
 did. 'After dinner, on any particular occasion (and, I 
 think, Sundays), we were allowed to drink Her Most 
 Gracious Majesty's health, and then privileged, like the 
 
! 
 
 il 
 
 II 
 
 I i 
 
 I 
 
 as 
 
 MY YinUT PUNISHMENT. 
 
 ladies, to retire. Our schooling was perfect, and we 
 profited by it afterwards. 
 
 My first punishment was for " whistling on the low^er 
 deck." I had been keeping the moming watch (a cold 
 one, too) from four until eight, and had gone to the 
 cockpit to wash and dress myself, to be ready for break- 
 fast at one-bell, to which I was looking forward, hungry 
 and sharp, after four hours' washing decks. While 
 scrubbing my face, &c., I was whistling some quick 
 tune, to assist me in my movements (whistling or 
 humming a tune does often assist, if time is kept to it), 
 and, unfortunately for me, at that moment the com- 
 manding officer was going his rounds. He said nothing 
 then, but, on arrival on deck, called the Quartermaster, 
 and desired him to tell me he wanted me on deck. As 
 quicik as I could arrange my dress, I was before him on the 
 quarter-deck. "You v/ere whistling below, sir." Well, 
 now I did not know whether I had been whistling, or 
 not, but considered it the safest plan to venture " Yes," 
 not knowing what was in store for me. " Yes, sir ! " 
 " Then go on the maintop-gallant-yard, and look out for 
 land, and when you see it, come down and report it to 
 me." We were then two thousand miles from any land. 
 Up I went, and there I gazed patiently and anxiously 
 until four p.m., when, on his coming up from c'inner, 
 I suppose in a better humour, I heard him call out, 
 " Maintop - gallant - yard there." " Sir," I replied. 
 " Come down." Down I came, and touched my hat. 
 " Do you see land, sir." "No, sir," I replied. *'Then 
 never let me hear you whistling on board a man-of-war 
 again." This was a trial for mo ; not the punishment. 
 
A SHARK. 
 
 29 
 
 f»» 
 
 but because I was naturally very fond of music. The 
 trial of going without anything to eat from four in the 
 morning until four in the evening, after being sharpened 
 up by the morning watcli, was also a severe test of 
 patience ; and woe be to the unfortunate individual who 
 was found conveying me victuals under such circum- 
 stances. 
 
 This would have been thought sufficient by some to 
 make me 
 
 ' . . " Curse the fatal day, 
 
 When I from home was led astray, 
 
 In this dark hole to dwell. 
 Had I but at sweet Ireland stayed, 
 I might have learnt some honest trade, 
 And shimned the M'hite lapelle ! " 
 
 But, no ; on me the effect was different. I looked on it 
 as a philosopher, and made a most hearty supper. 
 
 While working up between the islands and shoals 
 with which this passage is strewn, the jolly-boat was 
 lowered, to sound what appeared to us a shoal ; but it 
 turned out to be a baulk of timber, forty feet in length, 
 and surrounded by hungry sharks, two of which followed 
 the ship all day, until a hook was thrown overboard, 
 with a small pig on it, and one of them was caught. 
 On opening it there were found in its stomach a man's 
 shoe (having the heel of the foot still in it), a pig's leg, 
 &c. Some of the shark was broiled for supper, and 
 many partook of it. It is astonishing to see with what 
 avidity and pleasure sailors cut up and tear to pieces n 
 shark. It appears to be their only enemy, and they 
 * torture it in every manner possible ; cut off its tail and 
 
30 
 
 HONO-KONO. 
 
 I 
 
 if I 
 
 fins, put broad arrows* all over him, and send him adrift ; 
 it lives for some time in this state, struggling on the 
 surface of the water. 
 
 On crossing over to Hong Kong from Luzon, we met 
 one of the Hon. Company's steam vessels in distress, 
 having no provisions, no water, and having burned all 
 lier bulkheads, &c., for fuel. We had the pleasure of sup- 
 plying her with all she required, except coals. She had 
 been three months from Bombay, and had undergone 
 all the vicissitudes and trials of a distressed vessel. They 
 must soon have perished if this relief had not so timely 
 appeared. 
 
 Arrived safely at Hong Kong Island, which consists 
 only of a few fishing huts. Our first duty was to keep 
 up a Christmas Day, the first we had passed together ; 
 and it was " kept up," if noise, confusion, eating, and 
 drinking constitute the meaning of keeping up Christ- 
 mas Day. We visited some of the prize junks which 
 had been taken during the war, and were now in charge 
 of prize crews ; then went on shore, and found the 
 town consisting of pigs, ducks, rats and filth. Next day 
 sailed for Chusan, to meet the Commander-in-chief 
 
 Again we had to go through all the toil of working 
 up against the Monsoon. Sometimes it blew very hard, 
 and would only allow us to carry a close reef main-top- 
 sail on the cap and a main-stay-sail. However, we 
 succeeded, and, after one-and-twenty days, were iu 
 company with the Admiral and squadron at Chusan 
 Island. . 
 
 The Queen's Mark. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 CHINA. 
 
 ClirSAN THE WAR — CHINESE NEW YEAK — VALUE OF A HEAD — 
 
 . KIDNAPPING — NAHEOW ESCAPE — INGENIOUS THAP — POOTOO — 
 LETTERS FROM HOME — BATTLE OF CHAPOO — SMALL FEET — RK- 
 SURRECTIONISTS — ACTION OF WOOSTJNG — SHAXOnAI — YANO- 
 
 TZE-KEANG — 8ESIIAN PICTURESQUE SCENERY — CORPORA L 
 
 WHITE — GOLDEN ISLAND — ROCKET HANGS FIRE — CHIN- 
 KEANG-FOn — SUN STROKE — PRISONERS — SUICIDE — LOOT — 
 FALL IN THE lUVER FATAL— BOATS WITH EYES — NEW-KEEN. 
 
 Ai k ! kom to man ngau. 
 
 Having arrived at China in safety after being nearly 
 seven months on our voyage, found war was still pro- 
 frressing, from the indecision and cunning of the High 
 Commissioners, on the part of the Chinese ; all the ships 
 were ready for immediate action, and we were ready to 
 join them, and should have been very sorry if it had been 
 all over without our gaining any of the laurels, after so 
 long and tedious a voyage. 
 
 The description of the " War in China " having ap- 
 peared in so many forms before the public, by skilful and 
 professed writers, I do not intend trespassing with 
 anything like a repetition, it would occupy more space 
 
32 
 
 rillNKHE NKW YKAU. 
 
 -Ij 
 
 I 
 
 and leaves than I am disposed to devote to it, and it 
 would be but telling the same story o'er again ; but there 
 are many interesting and amusing incidents in connec- 
 tion with this war, which I am sure cannot have been 
 described, and one or two of these before 1 have done 
 with China I must narratv , even at the risk of being 
 thought tedious. 
 
 The 1 1 th of February is the Chinese' New Year's day, 
 all shops are closed for nine days, and every one we meet 
 is comfortably drunk with opium and samshoe; fireworks, 
 torches, and lanterns are burning, and Chinamen rolling 
 about all night in the streets, constitute the enjoyment of 
 the New Year. We find that the authorities are kind 
 enough to offer ten thousand dollars for the admiral's 
 head, one thousand for any British officer's, and one 
 hundred for a barbarian's. This is a pleasant notice to 
 greet you on taking your walks on shore, and p'ows our 
 respective values in their estimation. 
 
 During a short stay here of ten days, eight men have 
 been kidnapped, in some instances they have been at- 
 tracted into houses of ill repute, others into drinking 
 houses, and in one place, a lascar was found with a bam- 
 boo thrust down his throat, for convenience in carrying 
 him, with a bag by his side ready to put liim into, for 
 conveyance to the city walls ; the Chinese behaved with 
 frightful cruelty to some of our men. 
 
 One Sunday afternoon, two of my messmates with my- 
 self, were taking a walk through the Chinese burying 
 ground, between the north and west gates of Chusan, 
 where we na^owly escaped being shot. There are 
 ridges about two feet high, running through a causeway. 
 
 
INGENIOUS TUAF. 
 
 .13 
 
 and on one of these wo were walking ** single file," when 
 we lieArd the report of a gun close by ; wo took no notice 
 of it except turning round; presently "ping" came 
 a bullet, and struck the ridge we were walking on, 
 and now all thought it high time to quicken our paces. 
 We were unarmed, veiy thoughtlessly, and the fire 
 came from behind one of the graves. We had a most 
 narrow escape. 
 
 A verj' ingenious trap was laid for our Interpreter, who 
 had been on shore, and which very nearly proved fatal to 
 him. He was accosted by an old woman, who, weeping 
 bitterly, told him her husband had been dreadfully ill- 
 using her. In the goodness of his heart he said he would 
 inquire into it, and she led him to a house, and showed 
 him into a room, begging him to be seated, and she would 
 bring her " wretched husband ' before him. Vcr}' few 
 minutes had elapsed, when up blew the room, with the 
 poor old fellow and his orderly ; flooring, furniture, every- 
 thing went to pieces. He was much burned and bruised, 
 as well as his domestic, and they considered themselves 
 very fortunate to escape with their lives. This is an in- 
 stance of their cunning treachery, and there are many 
 others. 
 
 The Island of Pootoo, or " Worshippers," was visited 
 by some of our people, in the " Nemesis " steamer. The 
 devotees voluntarily give themselves up to all manner 
 of privations, tortures, and self-persecutions, for their 
 Joss' sake. One \ictim was sitting in a recess in 
 the temple, existing on one grain of rice daily. ]t 
 could not be ascertained how long he had been there, 
 or how long that morsel would support life. One 
 
 B ■ 
 
I 
 
 S4 
 
 POO TOO— LETTERS. 
 
 f 
 
 i 
 
 (I ] 
 
 of the visitors put his finder to the cheek and pressed 
 it, and it was some time before the flesli resumed its 
 form again; I was told it was like touching putty, or 
 dough, apparently lifeless. I never could get an 
 opportunity of going to this strange place, but often 
 wished it. 
 
 What a cheering prospect the first letters from home 
 bring over the feelings ; relatives, friends, long since left 
 behind, we have not heard anything of. It is now ninf. 
 months, the mrul is announced, and no one can possibly en- 
 tertain the Ceding, but those who have experienced it, 
 what excitement it causes everywhere, and in every one. 
 The mail bag is taken on board the Admiral's ship 
 (every moment appears now an hour), the letters are 
 sorted, and the signal made, " Send for letters." The 
 boats return, and the letters are again sorted ; every eye 
 is glancing at lettv-^r after letter, as it is passed over; every 
 one with a black edge or seal causes a cold shiver ; at 
 last the fortunate get letters, the less fortunate none, and 
 console themselves that " no news is good news ;" the 
 unfortunate, a letter with black border — a parent, a rela- 
 tive, a friend, is d'jad. Nine months have caused sad 
 changes ; but oh ! to see the blank, disappointed, un- 
 happy faces, almost amounting to grief, in those without 
 letters or news, who had buoyed up all their hopes for a 
 letter; no one knows it, no one can feel it but those 
 only. However, it soon passes over, and good news and 
 jokes ar3 interchanged. "Cheer up, my boy," one says to 
 another ; *' I'll sell you my letter for a penny when I've 
 read it." Letters from home are read over and over 
 again, and replaced in the pocket each time, until their 
 
 >t 
 
 i 
 
 :-«*i-titiMrin7;- 
 
 If 
 
5?- 
 
 m 
 
 ' 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 < 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 CD 
 

CHAPOO. 
 
 35 
 
 worn-out state renders i* impossible to keep them any 
 longer together. 
 
 On the 18th May, the ships were in position before the 
 Forts of Chapoo, and commenced the action at nine 
 in th3 morning ; the guns had been shotted, the boats 
 hoisted out, and the ship cleared for action the night 
 previous. A '•' Chop " was sent to tlie inhabitants asking 
 them, " to suri.'ender;" if they would not, to take all wo- 
 men and children out of the town immediately. 
 
 This was the first time we were under fire. There was 
 no feeling of dread, but ratlicr revenge, at seeing our 
 men ftiU around us. In the heat of the engagement with 
 a glass might be seen, wherever the eye traced, Chinese 
 rolling dead over the hills; others rushing frantically into 
 the sea and drowning themselves; while some were 
 actually cutting their own throats, and blowing them- 
 selves up with powder. 
 
 The result of this battle is well known. The lamented 
 remains of the Colonel of the 55th, who was killed 
 during the action, were committed to the deep next day 
 with military honours.* 
 
 A Captain of the 55th o died soon after of his 
 .vounds. 
 
 The women pse remarkable for their ■^rnal"' feet ; tTiey 
 are compressed during infancy with bandages of linen, 
 vvhich stops the circulation of the blood ; by this the toes 
 are pressed under the ball of the foot, and it ceases to 
 grow. Some say this is done to prevent them running 
 away from their husbands ; others for beauty ; but it is 
 
 • In passing round Chapoo next day I picked up the " (i»i u 
 of Pleayen " in the .streets. 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 KMALL FEKT. 
 
 mi 
 
 painful to see a female AYaddlmg like a duck through the 
 streets, endeavouring to balance herself by keeping her 
 arms extended. Neither the Tartars, nor those millions 
 living on the water, subject their children to such 
 torture. 
 
 The shoes are from two and a half tf> three inches long, 
 and I was some time doubtful whether these were really 
 worn by the ladies, until an instance occurred which 
 made me no longer doubt it. After the battle of Chapoo 
 we passed through the town, and in one house, a very 
 respectable one, yre were induced to go upstairs. On the 
 top step I found a pair of neatly embroidered shoes, two 
 and a half inches long, and quite warm ; they had just 
 been kicked off by the frightened wearer, who thought 
 of nothing but her escape when she heard our entry 
 into the house. 
 
 Cn our arrival off Woosung, a few days after the 
 attack on Chapoo, much to our astonishment, nineteen of 
 the men who had been kidnapped at Chusan and 
 other places were sent to us under an escort of two 
 Mandarins and sixteen soldiers. Many of these we had 
 given up for ever, without the most distant hope of 
 again seeing them. 
 
 The excitement i jw begins to get very great ; all the 
 small vessels and steamers are chasing and taking junks, 
 firing through their matting sails, in the neighbourhood 
 of the Rugged Islands, where we also very nearly lost 
 one of our small steamers, by striking on an unknown 
 rock. 
 
 We find the river crowded with junks, and the forts 
 well manned and armed, to all appearance well prepared 
 
I 
 
 ^ 
 "S 
 
 o 
 o 
 
' 
 
 wmmimim 
 
 itffYf^mf., 
 
 WOOSUNO. 
 
 0f 
 
 for us. There are also several steamer junks with four 
 wheels, worked by manual labour, and mounting four 
 guns each ; at the head of the river are many war junks. 
 
 On the 16th June, the vessels of war were towed be- 
 fore the Forts of Woosung, and at seven the action com- 
 menced. Only 200 yards from the shore, the frigate of 
 the senior Captain had the post of honour, and on board 
 her one of the lieutenants peeping over the hammock net- 
 tings to see how things were progressing, had his head 
 taken completely off by a round shot Our guns at so short 
 a distance appeared to do awful execution ; all their shot 
 passed over our hull, having their guns trained and se- 
 cured by sand-bags, for the buoys outside us, to which 
 they imagined we were going to make fast. Our rigging, 
 masts, and sails suffered most ; and it was curious to see 
 the sails where they had been hit by a shot on the folds 
 completely perforated when they were let fall. After 
 two hours and fifteen minutes' constant firing the forts 
 were silenced. We had only five men killed and ten 
 wounded. 
 
 Shanghai, the great emporium for silks, was also taken 
 without much loss of life on our side. 
 
 After a refit and a short delay, the squadron and 
 convoy ascended the Yang-tze-Kiang river, sixty-two 
 sail of vessels, a sight never before witnessed by the 
 astonished Chinese. We passed Harvey Point, where 
 a young mid. of the Conway, some time previous, met 
 an untimely end, having been murdered by the Chinese 
 while he was on a shooting excursion. 
 
 Nearly all the vessels, including also the line-of-battle 
 ships, shared the fate of gf^tting on shore on a nuul fliit. 
 
\ 
 
 38 
 
 OUAND SCENERY. 
 
 at a sudden bend of the river, opar Soo-clioo-foo, with 
 the dirty and troublesome duty of hauling off again. 
 Next day the Forts of Seshan were taken, after a feeble 
 and ineffectual resistance. 
 
 We now began to feel the serious effects of indifferent 
 water, and a burning sun of one hundred degrees in the 
 shade. 
 
 The scenery of this noble river already assumes a grand 
 and luxuriant aspect. On suddenly opening the city of 
 Chin-keang-foo, which stands at the entrance to the Grand 
 Canal, you pass Silver Island, with Golden Island not far 
 in the distance, both towering with fantastic pagodas of 
 many stories in height among trees and evergreens ; 
 shrubs of the most exquisite tint and verdure, the blue 
 and purple mountains in the distance, backed by a cloud- 
 less sky of azure blue — blue in reality from the clear and 
 rarified state of the atmosphere ; it is as impossible to de- 
 scribe the splendour of the scenery so as to do it justice, 
 as it would be for an artist to paint it ; hundreds of vessels' 
 masts showing above the land, and the sea population in 
 the greatest excitement in their junks and sampans at 
 our approach. On anchoring off Chin-keang-foo, we 
 did not allow even a boat to move ; bang I whiz I went a 
 shot ahead of them, if they persisted, then into them. 
 The tides here are very strong, and require much tact 
 to manage your vessel. 
 
 Our old, but not much esteemed friend, Corporal 
 White, a nick-name given him by the sailors, pays us 
 another visit (our first was at Chapoo), from " Elepoo," 
 and he now comes with the same old story, " 'Spose you 
 put no plum in your gun, then Chinaman put no plum, 
 
GOLDEN ISLAND. 
 
 09 
 
 make great bobbery, and send Chop to Emperor.'" We 
 had by this time begun to know Mr. Corporal White, and 
 it required much tact to evade his cunning proposals. 
 
 At each mouth of tlic Grand Canal, and at every 
 estuary, creek, i4,iid inlet, a vessel of war has been 
 stationed, to prevent the possibility of an enemy's vessel 
 escaping. The Union Jack was planted on the highest 
 story of the Pagoda on Golden Island, by a favourite 
 and gallant officer of the Admiral's ship, an?ld the shouts 
 and cheers of the squadron. 
 
 A capital and funny story is told of this zealous officer. 
 While at Chusan the boats constantly exercised with 
 their guns and rockets. It is a general order, and well 
 understood, that " if a rocket hangs fire all hands are to 
 jump overboard until the roc^ket explodes." They were 
 not on this occasion firing rockets, but merely exercising, 
 in the course of which, the order, " Rocket hangs fire," 
 was given. This officer and his well-disciplined crew 
 immediately go overboard; and soon after return to the 
 ship, wet through of course. I did not see this, but I 
 heard it told frequently, in a very humorous and 
 amusing manner. 
 
 Tlie Chinese being still stubborn, although nearly 
 seventy vessels were at the entrance of their Grand 
 Canal, the near approach to their capital Pekin, and 
 within a short distance of their ancient capital Nankin, 
 threatening immediate destruction ; it had no effect, and 
 on the 2 1st July, the city of Chin-keang-foo was taken by 
 assault. A breach in the wall, and a gateway blown in, 
 soon made an entrance for our troops, which was, how- 
 ever, hotly contested by the enemy. In the streets the 
 
40 
 
 ('IIIN-KKANtJ-FoO. 
 
 (1 
 
 
 Chinese troops were very numerous, and on many occa- 
 sions were only four or five yards apart from ours, wlien 
 of course the slaughter was very great. We had about 
 59 killed and 104 wounded, and many who suffered from 
 the heat of the sun ; 39 fell dead on the field from a 
 coup-de-8oleil. The Chinese actually brought our 
 wounded men down to the boats. The second person 
 who escaladed the walls, (the first having been shot dead) 
 was an ofiicer now high in rank in the service, very 
 dashing and much esteemed. He was saved by his brace 
 button, a bullet having struck it, cut it off, causing a very 
 slight wound. One of the boats suffered much, having 
 been cut off in a canal, and surrounded by the 
 enemy, who wounded 3 officers and 14 men ; one brave 
 young fellow, who had command of the boat when his two 
 superior officers fell ♦vounded, but who, while I am 
 putting together these leaves, I read has finished his 
 mortal career covered with wounds. The men who were 
 not killed were about to desert, when he stood on the 
 stern sheets, cocked his pistol, and threatened to shoot 
 tht first man who left the boat. Their relief soon 
 arrived ; he was then quite a little fellow, still wearing 
 the *' white patch." 
 
 Here also the Major of Marines fell a victim to the 
 excessive heat of the sun. He was brouirht on board 
 the ship, the temple artery opened, but he died in a few 
 minutes. Golden Island became his grave! Several 
 prisoners have been taken, some of importance, at least 
 their dress and button would say so, and the only way 
 we can secure them is in threes, by their tails, fastened 
 to the breechings of the guns. They will not sacrifice 
 
 i 
 
lIoUUIFYLNtJ SC'ENK. 
 
 41 
 
 their tail, it is the greatest disgrace to be without a tail, 
 hut it' they can manage to sh'p, wliich they liave done on 
 some occasions, they go overboard, sink, and rise no more. 
 They prefer this end to an uncertain fate. 
 
 During the engagement the scenes that were enacted 
 in the streets and houses baffle all descrij)tion. Whole 
 families threw themselves into wells ; in many houses 
 were seen fanulics hanging to the beams with a stool 
 kicked down which had formed a drop ; in others were 
 persons — men, women, and children — with the ropes and 
 strings actually round their necks, waiting for a last mo- 
 ment to push the stool from under them on which they 
 were standing. On several occasions women were dragged 
 out of rivers, canals, and gutters by our men, but re- 
 turned at once when released and completed the suicide 
 they were so determined on committing. This was all done 
 fearing they would fall into our hands, where they fancied 
 a worse fate awaited them. The scene the day after, when 
 I walked round the town, was horrifying. Strict orders 
 were given that no "looting" was to take place, but now 
 and then might be seen a pious mid., with a Chinaman 
 carrying a box before him, liis tail twisted round his wrist, 
 and a pistol cocked at his head, walking quietly down to 
 the boat, perhaps carrying his own proj)erty from his 
 own house ! 
 
 Several of our men have of late accidentally fallen 
 overboard, and it is strange, are never seen again ; the 
 under set is so strong they are carried beneath and rise no 
 more. Many have been the instances of persons falling 
 overboard, and I have never known one to ha\e been 
 seen to rise ay;aiii. One dav, I well recollect, thev were 
 
42 
 
 FALL OVEIUJOAUD — FATAL. 
 
 scrubbing the ship's side, and a boy was going over the 
 gangway with a bucket of sand ; he sUpped, fell into the 
 water, I watched with the greatest attention and anxiety 
 to see him rise, but nol he never rose again. 
 
 In the bow of every junk of 700 or 800 tons, down to 
 the smallest san\pan, arc seen very large painted eyes. 
 I was curious enough one day to ask a Chinaman, who 
 could speak English pretty well, what they were for ? He 
 replied without hesitation, "'Spose no got eye how can 
 see?" I was silent. 
 
 We received a very polite message from New-Keen, 
 General commanding Nankin, to ask our demands; 
 "that they wished for peace, but he was determined to 
 defend the rights of his Emperor to the last." 
 
 ifl 
 
 I 
 

 o 
 
 CO 
 
 •-r 
 
 to 
 
4 
 
 I B ' 
 
 nw 
 
 
 }m 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 NANKIN, 
 
 ix r.,flrr,i'TKD in:>rAicn — rKOCi..vMATioN — cnoiXHA — cniNO and 
 
 CHANG — CHOP KKOM >'K\V — DKATH DAII/V — rUKrARATION 
 F<)B. AHSAT3LT---t;LK!'00 ARIUVES — TRKAT FOR PEACE — IIOSTII.I- 
 TIES HUSI'EMJRt) — VISIT OK THR IMl'EBIAL COMMISSIONERS — 
 J'KrSON'KKS liKf^EASED — MV NEW 81I1P — ILLNESS — TKEATV 
 AIM'UdVEI* — Nt MIIEK OF SICK — WATER POISONOUS — PORCELAIN 
 TOWER — EMI'KKOR's PRESERVES — A MIDSHIPMAN DKOAVNED — 
 TREATT FOR PEACE RATIFIED — CHOP— PREPARE tOE SEA — 
 DESCENS- IHK RIVER — CHVSAN. 
 
 The 3<]|uadron anchor off the ancient capital, Nankin, 
 in 25 fathoms, about one and a lialf mile off an angle of 
 the outer walls, l»ut not more than twenty yards from the 
 shor*:!. The emhrusures and lieiohts are swarming with 
 troiips, stiiae on horses, waving their banners in defiance, 
 tii*^ bfilliAfr Porcelain Tower toppintj; far above the 
 hilUi, aii«i s(,: 'Hin^ its shining exterior in the sunbeams. 
 One ot ■; <s intercepted a dosj)atch from Te-chii-pu, 
 
 command. w„ ;., Tartar <farriscn of Nankin, to the Em- 
 peror, and its uamtness andoriginiility induce me to pre- 
 sent it trun.ia„< d, m follows: — "Tl»e troops that escaped 
 from ( 'hin-ke»n^ took shelter in Kiiang-Kin and Tan- 
 yang, nearest dufbrict towns S.E. from Chin keang. The 
 
 ««w«\«. -.y.j ffl B iw'" "'^ * ^' * '" 
 
t 
 
 ''i; 
 
 44 
 
 INTKKCEPTED DESPATCH. 
 
 Licut.-Gen. Hailing died shortly after the loss of the city, 
 leaving a son and dau<»hter, who were concealed by one 
 of his domestics, named Hwang. The soldiers of the 
 Tsing-chow Brigade aiding in the defence of Chin-kcang, 
 also retired to Nankin." He says, '* as soon as the bar- 
 barian invasion is a little over-past, arrangements shall 
 be made for the refugees to come to Nankin, who are 
 now some at Soo-choo, and some at Chang -chow ;" they 
 also say, " that when the rebellious barbarians attacked 
 the city they resisted them with all tlieir strength and 
 courage, and killed many of the foreigners, and that 
 had the reinforcements from other provinces (at that 
 time outsidu the walls), come up to their aid they would 
 certainly have inflicted a very severe chastisement on 
 them. All the best and fresh troops are with the terror- 
 spreading general, Ye-King, who has his head quarters 
 at Chang-chow, 500 le from Nankin." This, I think, 
 will be perused with interest, and not without a smile : 
 the "dying" of Hailing, ihe ''retiring" of the troops, 
 and the severe lesson we were to be taught if the "aid" 
 had only appeared. 
 
 A proclamation was now issued to the inhabitants of 
 Nankin, and an otl'er made to New, Ciovernor and 
 Cliief Afagistrate of Keang-Nan and Se, ottering to 
 accept tlie sum of three million dollara as a ransom, and 
 not cuter the city. An interview was requesteil by 
 ?iew, but rejected on oin* part. 
 
 The cholera is beginning to make a sad inroad among 
 our numbers. Several have already fallen victims to it, 
 living only a few hours after the attack. This, with the 
 disorders ociiasioMcd In the heat of tlie sun, bad water, 
 
 v# 
 
(HOLKHA — (•mN<} AND C'HANO. 
 
 and a most virulent fever and ague, is sorely felt, and 
 droops the spirits of all. 
 
 Again wo had a visit from two white-button 
 Mandarins attended by several brass buttons, with 
 Chops, (Jcc., to say that "the venerable Elepoo had 
 arrived from Pekin, with authority to treat on our 
 terms." This we mids. christened "humbug," a very 
 comprehensive term it will be allowed. In reply to 
 our proclamation, these two wliite-button "chaps," whose 
 names were " Ching" and " Chang," were bearers of a 
 "Chop" from New, Governor-General of Nankin, the 
 three provinces, and Secretary-at-War. lie said, " 1 he 
 money in the treasury was for the payment of the 
 soldiers, and that he could not think of taking that 
 for the purpose of what we termed a 'ransom.'" Then 
 came a long yarn aboui- " good faith and sincerity, on 
 which he plumed himself;" and then a rigmarole story 
 about "peace ;" he then offers to pay us " 100 dollars 
 for each mile, each ship would withdraw down the 
 river," at the same time bringing presents, baskets of 
 fruit. Imperial tea, silks, &c., I forget where thebe 
 presents went to. 
 
 A notation is now made in my journal to this effect : 
 " It is truly awful that scarcely a [)age of my diary 
 opens without a black margin, denoting that death, 
 the " King of Terrors," daily seiz(;8 on his prey ; that one 
 or more during the night or day pass to their long and 
 last homes, a visitation of Divine Providence on those 
 called to obey His summons. If wo had time but to 
 reflect, how thankful ought those to be who arc spared ; 
 and what a lesson to us to " watch and pray," to pray 
 
IG 
 
 DKATM — KLKl'OO AHIMVKS. 
 
 VI' 
 
 II 
 
 1 
 if 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 alway that we may bo among those on His right when wo 
 are called, to have said to them — '*Como, ye blessed 
 of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you 
 from before the foundation of the world." 
 
 The ships had taken up their final positions for the 
 assault of Nankin, the troops were landed, the ])lan of 
 the attack matured; the walls off which the Flag-ship 
 lay at a distance of 1400 yards were actually measured 
 with a bamboo 33 feet high. Joss Hill was formally 
 taken possession of, which commaridod the Tartar portion 
 of the city ; and a council of war held on board the 
 Flag-ship, 
 
 Elepoo arrives, and is the cause of breaking up a 
 grand d inner- j)arty, but is politely informed ** if he does 
 not produce documents to prove his authority before 
 day-light next morning ho will be liandcd over to the 
 tender mercies of the Commander-in-Chief!" 
 
 Sunday intervened, but early on M(mday, before day- 
 break, ''chops" came off, stating that Elepoo and Keying, 
 High Imperial Coramissoners, were duly authorized by 
 the Emperor to come to our terms ; and the fact was, 
 they really were ; the documents were formally peioised, 
 taken to the Emperor for approval and we sh.iU soon 
 see " Peace with China I" 
 
 Hostilities having been now suspended (and I 
 must say some of us were disappointed, ff»r we fully 
 made up our minds to see the interior of Nankin), the 
 High Imperial Commissioners visited the authorities on 
 board the Flag-ship. Having been one of the favoured 
 few youngsters who were allowed to be eye-witnesses, I 
 must say it was a novel spectacle ; every one appeared 
 
 I 
 
IMPERIAL VISIT. 
 
 4T 
 
 in full dress : Ilcr Majesty's Plenipotentiary, the Admiral 
 and (Jeneral, and all Commanding Officers, &c. A small 
 steamer and barges were sent for the Commissioners, 
 and at noon precisely they aiiivcd, and were saluted 
 with a Chinese salute of three guns. Up the accommoda- 
 tion ladder came Elepoo and Keying, the High 
 Imperial Comissionei*s, New-keen, Governor General of 
 Nankin, the Emperoi-'s uncle, and a nun '.reus train of 
 red, white, and blue-button attaches; the Tartar General 
 and his train arrived soon afterwards. The venerable 
 Elepoo had from feebleness and age to lean on two 
 of his attend.mts. They were introduced individually 
 to the heads of each department by the Interpreter. 
 After they got in a good humour in the Admiral's cabin, 
 ward-room and gun-room, for each had a portion to 
 look after and ** stuff," they were shown round the 
 shi}), but expressed not the least surprise, and hurried 
 by the guns very fast. They were asked if they would 
 like to see one exercised, but they would not hear of 
 such a thing ; " they would not give us the trouble for 
 the world." It was five in the evening before they 
 were all gone. The cherry-brandy in the mids.' berth 
 appeared to open their hearts and brighten their 
 intellects, and with those who were of course only 
 the lacqueys of the train, there was some good fun. 
 
 The Chinese prisoners after the visit were all set 
 free, with five dollars in each pocket, and they chin- 
 chinned, bowed heads, and knocked foreheads on the 
 decks for a long time after in grateful acknowledg- 
 ment. (See 2 Chron. vii. 3). 
 
 I WHS now appointed to another vessel going home, 
 
4M 
 
 MY NKW SMI P. 
 
 - : 
 
 :\ smaller ono, and as it luakts you a " lii^jolHcer" goiup 
 t(» a small ship, I did not much rc^rot leaving old and 
 some very esteemed messmates ; and the feeling of joy 
 that I was going to a ship, the first tor England, made 
 me forget almost the novel scenes antl oM friends of 
 my first happy days at sea. Moreover, I nnist add that 
 my removal to another vessel hound for England was 
 in conso(|Ucnco of my health having much sutlcred from 
 a loni; illness. I was the first to take fever after leavinji 
 Singapore, from a boyish and thoughtless indidgence in 
 that delicious fruit for which Singapore is so famous, 
 the j)ine-ap|'le ; and for which you only give one dollar 
 su)d a half for a boat-lond. Many shijw scrub their decks 
 with them, the acid whitening the planks. They can bo 
 eaten t«> any amount before breakfast, but in the sun 
 during noon-day I have learned a lesson ! 
 
 The Treaty of Peace arrived, approved and signed, 
 and a lloyal salute proclaimed that joyful event from the 
 scpiadron. 
 
 I have now led my young and patient readers to 
 Nankin. I have detained them there for some time, 
 longer indeed than I ought to have done, but I am sure 
 that many of the scenes I have endeavoured to describe 
 never before appeared in print, therefore I may be 
 excused for so doing ; and as sickness now is raging to 
 a fearful and fatal amount, and I am among the sufferers, 
 I must take leave of the ancient capital. First I will 
 show the number of suffered in each vessel, and then 
 before I finally start I will take my young readers to the 
 lop of the Porcelain Tower of Nankin. 
 
 The signal wjis made every morning from the Flag- 
 
jrs to 
 time, 
 sure 
 Iscribe 
 ly be 
 Ing to 
 terers, 
 I will 
 then 
 to the 
 
 iFlag- 
 
 NUMnr.u OF airK. 49 
 
 ship, " numbers of sick ;" on the 26tli September it was 
 as follows : — 
 
 Tho ll!i(,'-sliii> 2.'}0. 
 
 A Htoiimor 75 and l)oth doctors. 
 
 A Htciiin-fVi^iito 114. 
 
 A l'rif;iito I. 'JO. 
 
 A corvette .'52 and H ofllccrH. 
 
 The remainder of the shipping in proportion. It was 
 time indeed to leave; one ship liad to borrow men from 
 another to woif^h her anchors. A great deal of sickness 
 was caused by being compelled to drink tho water from 
 alongside, which, passing througli swam])s and decayed 
 vegetable matter, was most injurious. Tho wells on slioro 
 were poisoned, at least we were informed so frequently, 
 and although the truth of it was never practically tested, 
 it would have been a dangerous experiment to have 
 drunk from them ; the Chinese were well tip to all these 
 cunning devices. 
 
 Now for a trip to tho " Porcelain Tower." A party 
 was formed of seven from my ship, which was afterwards 
 increased to nine by our having called alongside a far- 
 famed steamer in this expedition ; and while there, her 
 gallant Captain had added to our stock a half-dozen 
 basket of champagne. Before day-dawn we started, and 
 had to pull 1 4) miles up a canal to tho right of the city, 
 where in the suburbs we found " The Tower." Wo 
 had to pass the city walls within ten yards, which wore 
 here about 40 feet high; on the ramparts of which were 
 hundreds of astonished troops, wondering at our pre- 
 sumption in approaching so near the celestial paths. '1 his, 
 however, did not intemipt our progress. On the right 
 
so 
 
 PORCELAIN TOWER. 
 
 I 
 
 Ui 
 
 •I 
 
 
 bank forming tlio canal were pretty cottages surrounded 
 by evergreens, interspersed here and there by tall rushes. 
 About seven miles up this canal, the heat of the sun 
 compelled us to "heave to" under the arches of a 
 handsome and substantial stone bridge, leading to one 
 of the city gates ; and here we demolished a light tiffin. 
 Three miles further was another bridre, equally good, 
 composed of five arches, and here we first beheld the 
 lofty Porcelain Tower. Here we disembarked and 
 walked up to the city gate, which was immediately 
 closed on our approach, and we returned to our boat. 
 A third bridge was passed about a mile above the last, 
 and here we landed on the suburban side of the canal, 
 and walked about one mile through the streets, which 
 were thronged to suffocation by curious multitudes, 
 trying to get a peep at us. Traffic was going on at a 
 brisk rate, and this was the first time we had seen an 
 uninterrupted town.* 
 
 The compound or square was entered, and we 
 soon found the entrance gate. Several steps led 
 to the doors, and the floor of the first story was occupied 
 by huge corpulent josses, 20 to 40 feet in height (from 
 estimation by our own heights, but we had no means of 
 measuring them.) A narrow winding stair led us to the 
 balcony of the ninth story, which took us all the fore- 
 noon to ascend. The view from this was charming, and 
 quite exceeded all we could have anticipated ; it was 
 
 • The gardens and preserves of the late Emperor are on the 
 opposite side of the river to Nankin, enclosed by walls and bas- 
 tions, 18 miles in extent. We walked to them one fine evening. 
 Wild boars are hunted and speared here. 
 
 d 
 
mnded 
 rushes, 
 tie sun 
 i of a 
 to one 
 t tiffin. 
 Y good, 
 ;ld the 
 id and 
 idiately 
 r boat, 
 he last, 
 u canal, 
 , -which 
 titudes, 
 on at a 
 seen an 
 
 ind we 
 jps led 
 )ccupied 
 lit (from 
 neans of 
 IS to the 
 he fore- 
 ling, and 
 ; it was 
 
 re on the 
 3 and bas- 
 c evening. 
 
 m 
 
 _2 
 
 PORCELAIN TOWER AT NAIMKiNC. 
 
 ..'.uV.» ,'„. , 
 
PORCELAIN TOWER. 
 
 « 
 
 worth Cuming 22,000 miles, as wc all had done, to sco 
 this alone. 
 
 Before we stirred one inch we sat down, drew forth 
 the " half-dozen basket " our kind and well-known 
 friend had presented to us^-cut the stnnj^s, and, amid 
 three true hearty cheers, d/ank Her Most Glorious 
 and Gracious Majesty's health. Long may she live! 
 and may we all be promoted I (you see we did not 
 forget ourselves). We had to drink one more toast- 
 that of our esteemed Captain ■, (I was just going 
 to mention his name, but that would not do), the gene- 
 rous donor of the champagne. 
 
 We walked round the balcony. The exterior of the 
 tower is entirely porcelain, covered with all manner of 
 curious devices, elephants, lions, tigers, dragons, and 
 figures much like " Punch," and other indescribable 
 antediluvian monsters. From this we had a most exten- 
 sive view of the city of Nankin, surrounded by three 
 walls; the outer, 32 miles in circumference, the city 
 enclosed in the inner one. The houses trc thickly packed, 
 with the o::ceptio'h of one or two of a very superior sort, 
 perhaps Government offices, which have a small garden 
 in the centre; the "joss-housea" very conspicuous. 
 We descended, and having laid out our dinner on marble 
 and porcelain slabs, made a hearty meal, and again 
 drank health to our beloved Queen ; we did not appear 
 to care how often it was. 
 
 Englishmen, in particular, have all the bump of 
 destruction very prominent ; they never visit an ancient 
 building but they must have a jnece, a small bit for a 
 relic, and a bit to give away if asked for, and a bit in 
 
 e2 
 
I i 
 
 ! I 
 
 || 
 
 52 
 
 MlDSIIirMAN lUloWNT.I). 
 
 caso tiloy 8houI(l Iobc the other hit; ami so it Ih Binnli 
 bits each, and hits every one. After a phice has hoconio 
 visited frc(Hiently it is perfectly destroyed. Some 
 even take pickaxes, gcolofjieal haiimiers ; arm theinselviM 
 befon! startin<; with the full intention of being di'structive. 
 Tiiis ancient, picturestjue, and l)eautiful biiildinf; was not 
 exempt: visitors had taken, some an elephant's face or 
 dragon's tail; another, a lion's paw; another, i\ whole slab 
 of |)orcelain; until the fiicinga of the upper story luul 
 boon ([uito disfigured. The tower had lately undergone 
 a thorough repair, and I forget the almost fabulons sum 
 wo were told it cost to do it, sjuncthing enormous. Of 
 <!our8e a complaint was soon made, but too late, and 
 visitors afterwards liad to obtain passjwrts before they 
 would bo admitted to view tins celebrated tower. 
 
 Wo returned very late, very fatigued, but very much 
 pleased witli our tour. 
 
 There was a strict and positive order in my late ship, 
 that " no person should sleep about the decks, or in the 
 open air." This was littlo attended to, from the extreme 
 and oppressive heat at night, and the" myriads of mos- 
 quitoes, which precluded all rest. Many chose rather to 
 undergo the punishment for disobedience of orders, than 
 be suffocated below, and the blood taken from them drop 
 by drop, by these constant and attentive pei*secutors. 
 All manner of "dodges'* were resorted to for a "cool 
 billet," and after the commanding officer had gone his 
 last rounds for the night, every mid., and every one w ho 
 coutd not stay below, might be seen with his straw mat 
 and pillow rushing for some bearable spot for the 
 night It was during one of these nights that a 
 
 
TREATY (»F PKACK. 
 
 53 
 
 :c ship, 
 in tlio 
 
 xtrenio 
 r uios- 
 
 Iher to 
 K, than 
 
 |ni drop 
 seniors. 
 " cool 
 ;ono liis 
 fne who 
 \a.w mat 
 Ifor the 
 that a 
 
 most mohmcholy accident occurred to a fine and pro- 
 mising yount^ officer. lie, like some of the rest, had 
 chosen the main chains for a rosting-phico ; and, durin<T 
 the night, ho fell overboard and sank immediately ; of 
 conrse his body was never found. It c|uite cast a gloom 
 over us all. Another suddenly "called" in the youth of 
 liis years to stand before his Maker, and give an account 
 of liimsi'lf, tried and condemned by Ids own works; 
 " Those that do well shall inherit everlasting life ; tliose 
 that do wicked, everlasting misery." Another solemn 
 warning to us to prepare. 
 
 The Treaty of Peace arrives from Pekin, fully and 
 iinally ratified ; the squadron dress and fire a royal 
 salute ; the Lieut-General is invested with the ensignia 
 of a G.C.Ii., at which all attended ; as well as our old 
 friend, To-chii-pu, the Tartar General. He got rather 
 iiKluisitive after his lunch, and asked the Admiral how 
 old he was ? "Sixty-one," replied the Admiral, " fifty of 
 which I have been a sailor." Ho said, " What a bravo 
 man you must be to continue so long in such misery." 
 
 In one of the " chops " accompanying the Treaty 
 was the following quaint and Oriental communication 
 I'lom one of the Commissioners :— 
 
 ^' Good faith is what is held in the highest esteem by 
 " the honourable country (speaking of China) ; sincerity 
 *'is that on wh'ch the Governor-General most plumes 
 "himself. In his ( omnumications there was not a word 
 "other than right fooling and reason, that might not 
 "stand before the bright light of heaven's sun; or be 
 "brought forth into the presence of gods and spirits ! " 
 
 The Flag-j?hip makes the f;ignal to us, ** Prepare for 
 
m 
 
 I'UKI'AUK roK HKA, 
 
 ! ! 
 
 I ' 
 
 ' 
 
 SiMi." Never ^^JV< ih'j't^ i\ sJi.';h;j! so joyrully ivcrlved, or 
 H(j (|iiirkly mhswiTimI um thai ; u thrill <»?" (I<'li*,j;ht rtiu 
 rhr«>js<ili tM'crv OH*' oi' iiM ! luf <tui* uuiuIm'im wfru' iast <h'- 
 I'l'i's^sin,!,' hv sirluicss iuid drath. \\ r (hv'inlci! <he i'onurr 
 alwfiivs MUU'h mow th:ui lht> ctn'ju}. We wryr ^hu] u( 
 ♦h»' rhiin<'c of riskinj,!; our lives itt h;\ttl(', hut Miekm-ss 
 and th>ath niixh' om sjtirils ih"ooj» t*) think oC it ; didly 
 .-•-taruiij nt us, ,«:;<>'m>j; ono afhrr tho othiT, not, Knowinp; 
 >vlh> may ho the lu'xt. 
 
 'VUv ;uu'hor wa.s \voitj;hod ! ihv Miok aituail)' !eavin<.^ 
 tlu'U" hannuockH Uf assist at tho ca{n>tuu ; ihu fiddler 
 |>hiying the appvonriate (jui.k .stejj-— « 
 
 t 
 
 ... \\i 
 
 In 
 
 
 ♦' rrs Tt>Ji; nm us to (jo!" 
 
 •• Odivt jnu h>ai' (hi' inUs aro rijiKWift? 
 It/rt tiiiU" tor u« to fjol 
 lUtn'f you hour tho ix\vh nio »ijighm; ? 
 It'll timo tor list f<> Kol "' 
 
 Many u silent, fervent, and inwfml prayer was uintlered 
 o«t tiiat day ; with individual thanks to Him who had 
 ^vaUhed over those wlio had CKoajwd troni tlio perils of 
 so much sickness, liie ilatij^ern of tho sea, and tlu.i 
 tMicjviy. 
 
 1 have now brought tny paliont followers out of tlu) 
 Yang-tze-Koani.'* a<j;ain jiawsint^ the picturest|m: Golden 
 and Silver lt<!ands, and anivinu; Hafe at (..'hnsan ; and 1 
 )jop<' I have not incnrrod eensuro hy detainin^<j; them too 
 htne;, where all thin/^s were so attractive, so new, and so 
 inlert'»itij»ir to wa all. 
 
 t 
 
 '), 
 
 I 
 
 
 k^ 
 
Aw'tlf or 
 
 ■ 
 
 *,!;!(t risu 
 
 w 
 
 > liU^t <1»'- 
 
 1 
 
 V i'onncv 
 
 1 
 
 j^liKl ui' 
 
 1 
 
 Mi<*klH'S,S 
 
 s 
 
 t ; ilaily 
 
 f 
 
 luiowinp; 
 
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 V K'livlnjjj 
 
 
 10 fitlillci* 
 
 1 
 
 rUA J»TEIl VIT. 
 
 "liOM i: VVA HI) IJOl'M)." 
 
 HOMKWAJsn n0IM> - J'UO«l'Kr:TH— nONO |[0N(»-OM)CtIAI'--CI 
 
 AKTIHTM -IMniWTH — MACAO — WAHII ( I.OTHKH— hINC»* POfcT 
 
 WAKHJNn - AN«»;K UOADM — HI'K)I.I'ANK - TAItt,K MOtNTUN — 
 
 m\ liKl.K.N \ — NAI'OLKOX'h T<iMIJ NAIIKOW Ks<:AI'K- - rM<-Tor 
 
 TltOWSKHS— lirMP (tK UKNTKIjr.TJVJ N'KHH— AHi.'KNMJON — I*VA- 
 1,1 IH — HAItU-IIKAIlTKri UKl.K — HIIOUT At.tOWAXCK — I,A»9 
 Oil! — AI.I.'h WKI.I.! — P0TAT0K.1 AND MAf;K«:KKI--- I'l.VM'HTft — 
 IMI'HKSHIONS — CUl'ISI!; IN A CAH — I'OJOVMOir 111 — HKCIil'- 
 Ht)m — i<V€KK blLVKtt — My ItliUt iMl'il»*«l<»' — I'A V Uf*'. 
 
 vy1h> luvl 
 perils (»f 
 
 :>ut ol'tlio 
 
 IK; GoliU'II 
 
 \n ; and 1 
 Kbeni UK) 
 w, uuil so 
 
 i 
 
 " An]< of the siu'lor youtTi, whm far 
 
 His light, burk houadM o'er -^«-a«'« fvi 
 What, (thurms hun ii.tmt, w1i#!« ♦-\«BJii«'»t »l«r 
 HmiltK o'or the wavt i* 'lo drfjain of home.'* 
 
 Akthk somo refit, lor we came into (Jhusaii withoi^ an 
 anchor, and n.>ccivin!» on boanl many inviili<is, hoioo oi' 
 whom wo were hut taking to{M^^ for ])uria!, wo onornorn- 
 in;^ actually found ourselvos running, with a favoured galo, 
 " ilomewiird iiound." It is iinpossilde to convey tlie 
 fyolingsexix-rionccd at such amconent as '.liisi, to any but 
 tho^' who l;uvc! ah'cady folt them. Although our binp was 
 
<':. 
 
 ft; 
 
 ii! 
 
 I (i! 
 
 o{\ 
 
 HONG-KONG.— OLD CJIAl' 
 
 22, ()()() miles I'rom Eiiglan<l, runnin<i; with only u close 
 Rvled iiiMiii-topsail on tlio vi\\) ; Iwittoiu'd down "Tore 
 and jil't; " evory sea throat i'Min<^ instant dostruction ; our 
 thoughts wore all towards ''home." The happv, i)U'a8inji^ 
 j»rosjH'ets of honjo I Sometinies, whih; pacing tho dock, wo 
 would stand still tor im instant and ask ourselves the<|ues- 
 tion — "Is it a reality? Can wo really bo goin^home?" 
 There are thou;4hts and [)leasure8 about home, that rivet 
 us to it, that we can never forget ; antl although wo arc 
 delighted to get to sea, yi't almost the first wish is to be 
 back again. I shall never Ibrget my impressions at firat 
 lii'iug homowanl bound ; I presume they are the same 
 with all ; they are most enviable. 
 
 We called at Hong-Kong* aDer a (|uiek passage. I 
 was sent away early in the morning witli despaU^hes to 
 the lN).st-()(lice, and to West Point; as our Naval Estab- 
 lishment had been erected there since my last visit. I did 
 not know exactly where it was ; but on reaching tho 
 shore, a respectable-looking, elderly man, in a snug 
 shooting-coat, and a stout walking stick in his hand, was 
 on tho pier, leisurely, but attentively, looking at my 
 biKit's crew, who were not very strictly attired. I jumped 
 on the j)ii'r, and said, " Ohl chap, will you tell uio where 
 th«! Dockyard is, if you pU'asi' ?" " ()h yes," says he, 
 "over there." " Thank you." A minute afterwards, I 
 m(*t some person I know, and asked him who that was 
 srll standing on the pier. "That," he says, in ti low 
 voice, for fear of attnu-ting uttentioji, " That's the 
 
 • Ami licro w«' had flic (j;ratifi<-atiun to li-urn tlmt the thanks of 
 lioth H<mH('s of ParlianK nt wt>rt' votod us for the Mucot'MHful Utuu- 
 uatiou of the \\n\\ and that Wf wcvv to receive nuilals.. 
 
(.IIJNKSK lUlTISTS. 
 
 bf 
 
 Admiral !*' T said not nnotlicr word. This "chap,'' 
 US I had famili.uiy tcnnod liiin, was the .stricte.st Achniral 
 ill Iffn* Majesty's sorvicro; hail Wan taking his morninj^ 
 walk heforo tho sun rose, and was tlien waiting lor his 
 {galley to take hiin on hoard the Flaii-Sliiji. 
 
 We called, also, at tho Portu^aiesc settlonient of 
 Macao, and I was very sorry that sickness still deprived 
 ine oi' the opportunity of visitinij it. 
 
 Tho Chinese arc heautil'ul artists in either likenesses 
 or landscapes, hut in the latter have no idea of perspec- 
 tive ; they will copy a steel enjL^ravin^x perfectly. Many 
 had their likenesses taken at lIon;L^-Kon<^ ; particularly 
 the Connnanders-ia-Chief, and other notahle persons; 
 among whom was a dashing Captain, a tall, fine, good- 
 looking man, hut <leeply indenfc<l with the sinall-pox. 
 .His picture was finished, an adiuirahlo likeness! and 
 having called at the ])aiiJter's one ev«;ning, intending to 
 give final directions ahout it, ho found the artist, with 
 a small hrush in his hand, having on it a light hrown 
 colour, sitting intently over the picture. " Hollo,'' says 
 the Captain (who thought it had hecn comj»leted sor 
 days), " what are you ahout now ? " " I go," says tho 
 inimituhle Chinaman, "I go makeo dot;" at the same 
 time placmg the hrush on the cheek to imitate the pits 
 of tho small-[)ox ; of course tho picture w«s at once 
 rcscucil. 
 
 These fellows imitate anything; the best and most 
 perfect imitists T suppose in tho world ; sometimes they 
 are ahsurdly so ; and many of us lost considerahly hy their 
 imitating too nearly. Once my tailor came off, and 
 measured me fur a camlet jacket, aud directions 
 
"• i !' 
 
 Hi 
 
 58 
 
 WASH CLOTHES. 
 
 given to make It exactly like an old uniform jacket 
 which he took with him for the purpose. In a week the 
 tailor returned the jacket very neatly and very nicely 
 finished ; but on looking over it, I found to my horror 
 that 1)0 Jiad made it exactly like the pattern, and had 
 copied, to a stitch, an old patch that had been put on 
 the elbows some months previously. This, I thought, 
 was canning the joke further than the picture. 
 
 " Wash clothes " is a great event on going into harbour 
 after a long cruise ; your kit is nearly exhausted, as may 
 bo supposed (that is, a midshipman'b kit), and his last 
 clean shirt is on him, which he has kept on purpose for 
 coming into harbour ; and is therefore anxious as to whom 
 he trusts nearly all his " worldly goods," and when they 
 will be brought to him. No sooner is the anchor dropped, 
 than on board rush men, women, boys, girls, holding out 
 handfuls of certificates ibr you to read, from officers for 
 whom they have wasluy' ; and taking care to have on 
 them linen done up to stJirch and perfection. Cries of 
 *' Wash clothes, sir ?" " Yes, sir, I wash your clothes ;" 
 ** I wash for you before, sir ;"" " I know your i'acc, sir ;" 
 '' I no put cliunam, sir ;" " Ah ! Sahib know mo ;" *' I 
 mend clothes, sir ;" " This your ceititicate, sir ;" " I sew 
 on button, sir;'' until you are really compelled to let 
 them exhaust thomsclves, and then quietly choose one. 
 You then provi* their honesty by their papers ; somo 
 are bad, some are good. Not knowing how to read, 
 they treasure certificates that condemn them at once; 
 some run *,hus : — 
 
 ''7 hereby ccrtifij that Alii/ Arum Jvcjecboif is nut to 
 
WVSH CLOTHES. 
 
 50 
 
 jacket 
 euk the 
 r nicely 
 yr horror 
 i,nd had 
 
 put on 
 thought, 
 
 harbour 
 as may 
 his last 
 L'pose for 
 to whom 
 hen they 
 dropped, 
 Iding out 
 fficcrs for 
 have on 
 Cries of 
 othes ;" 
 ace, sir ;" 
 me;" <' I 
 '< I sew 
 id to let 
 )ose one. 
 rs ; some 
 to read, 
 at once; 
 
 is not to 
 
 c 
 
 " he trusted; washes badly, a/id pounds your linen bctxcccn 
 •' two stones to shreds, 
 
 (Signed) "J. S., 
 
 "II. M.S. " 
 
 Another : — 
 
 " This is to certify that liiimsctjve Cowusjvc is a 
 " rascal. 
 
 (Signed) " W. S., 
 
 "H. M. S. " 
 
 Another . — 
 
 " //c can conjldently recommend Mrs. Cnrsetjee as a 
 " yood, honest, and punctual washerwoman," 
 
 Signed by all the Officers, II. M. S. 
 
 When you are satisfied, then comes a job to count 
 linen and make out lists. You svould rather do anything 
 than that, but you are compelled. (Joing over all your 
 dirty clothes again, seven, eight, or nine dozen pieces ; 
 of a hot scorching day, on a lower deck, only a few 
 miles from the e(iuator ; wotting tl«rough your only hope, 
 your last clean shirt on your back, with perspiration. You 
 know not what ordeal some of your clothes have to go 
 through before you again see them; pei'haps your hand- 
 some dress shirts will bo worn over and over again by 
 some greasy nigger fellows ; your under garments also 
 pay a heavy toll for landing. But a capital story is told 
 of a "dubash" who brought off the washing on ono 
 occasion, and on counting them over, the owner, who was 
 n young midshipman, remarkeil, that a pair of his 
 
GO 
 
 SINQAPOUK. 
 
 \ 
 
 stockings, wliic'h were always wliito, were now a brown 
 colour. '* All, Sahib,^ said the wnslior-nian, slapping his 
 forehead, "please, Sahib, niassa strain him coffee 
 through them." " Confound it," said tlie young fellow, 
 nuich annoyed ; but the washer-man endeavoured to 
 compromise the matter by saying, *' Oh, don't be ongiy. 
 Sahib, massa only strain him through dirty stocking." 
 
 N.B. — Always know where your washer-man lives, so 
 that you may take him by storm, it' your ship is 
 ordered suddenly to sea. 
 
 We an'ived safe at Singapore, and all this was gone 
 through. Our stay w.as very short, no clothes appeared, 
 and wc were settin<i studdin«j:-sai!s. Fortunately the wind 
 vas light, and when eight miles (»ft' the anchorage, on 
 board pulled a boat with (mr clothes, I mean our 
 rags ! wet, muddy, and saturated with yellow-ochre. We 
 bad a four months' sea voyage betbro us, and this 
 our kit. " Patieuco is a virtue." 
 
 In most f/f the Indiai) ports the washer-meu and 
 women have brothers and cousins who are tailors and 
 linen -drapiTs. After one or two washing your clothes 
 are beaten to pieces between two l.'irgo stones in a 
 ruiming stream ; when they can be no longer worn, 
 you nre strongly recommeiided to the brother or cousin 
 for now linen. 
 
 At Anger Point, Straits of Sunda, boats came oflF and 
 wo got a sea stock of fruit and turth , and also had 
 the honour of a visit from the post-master in his fidl 
 dress, "langooty and cocked hit." A light and airy dress, 
 well adapted for the climate, except that the paper cocked- 
 liit may collapse in a heavy shower, but the same 
 
 ^^1 
 
ST. HKLFNA. 
 
 01 
 
 sliower would be of bencnt to the rag. I tliourrlit wo 
 should all have split on his first coniinrr on dick, it was 
 irresistibly ludicrous. On our piissa^e to the Capo of 
 
 licroi 
 
 iasso( 
 
 (Jood Hope, passed within the infliuuce of a hurricane 
 on the nuridiau lA' Mauritius. The sky suddenly 
 became cloudy, the clouds were rent by heuvy p(!als of 
 thunder, aeconi])anied by vivid li^htnin^. 'Jhe rain 
 fell in torrents; the baronuter also fell, and all sail was 
 shortened. It had passed near without our sufft-ring 
 I'rom its effects, beyond this, at night wo had a most 
 violent scpiall ; but by tho warning wore well prepared. 
 
 Christmas- day wc passed Table Mountain, but 
 being all anxious for homo did not delay by goijig in 
 there. I should, however, Mke to have gone oik e through 
 Wine-berg and Constantia for many reasons; but 
 "roUing down to St. Helena" was perhaps the better 
 of the two. 
 
 Anchored at St. Helena, on a small spot of ground oil" 
 St. James's Valley; coming in mider double reels, as by 
 Port-orders vessels are not allowed, or are reipiested 
 not to carry much sail, on account of tho sudden gtjsts 
 of wind which come down the valKvs and ravines. 
 
 St Helena ottered great attractions for us — Naj)oleon's 
 prison, his dwelling, his tomb. As our stay was very 
 short, a small party were ott' at once. The landing here is 
 difHcult, and indeed at times dan<ierous, from the rolliuir 
 swell which fetches round the points, brought up by a 
 constant S.E. trade wind. On the landing-place (tlu^ 
 only one on the island) a crane is fixed with a rope attach- 
 ed ; this is swung out to you, and when you lay hold of it, 
 you swing yourself in as the boat rises with the waves, 
 
ea 
 
 NAPOLEON 8 TOMB. 
 
 ii 
 
 and must be well attended hy the crew, who keep her 
 from f»cttin«5 under the overhanpinf» rocks. 
 
 Wo were, however, unfortunjitc, or somebody in tho 
 boat was stupid, for on our approaching the rock the 
 wave raised the boat several feet ; she then fell ; and on 
 rising again her stern ^ot under tho rock, her bows 
 risin<^ with tho swell, and of course leaving half of her 
 whore it was. As a matter of course all were in tho 
 water, but those on shore rescued us one by one. It was 
 a narrow escape. 
 
 "NVe were not, howi'vor, to be foiled in our walk to the 
 tend) ; to have returned on board to put on dry clothes 
 would have cost too much time, as tho ship was to sail 
 in the evening. A kind friend on shore (a very fat one 
 too, I'at people Jire always kind !) lent me a pair of trousers, 
 immensely largo, and tapering down to the lect. I am 
 sure I was mistaken lor a Frenchman, and received much 
 attention ; they were preferable to wet ones, and 
 otf we started all on horse-back. 
 
 We were politely shown over the residence of the lato 
 Napoleon (now a stable), and also the hollow and much 
 dilapidated sepulchre in which his remains laid. Wo 
 were presented with a small piece of the pall which 
 covered his coffin, as well as a sprig of tho drooping- 
 wiilow ; and j)ermitted ns a great favour (for tho pay- 
 ment of half a dollar), to drink from the same well 
 that Napoleon did, or jjorhaps never did. 
 
 This is another sad illustration of tho destructive 
 curiosity of our countrymen ; hero iron bars have been 
 removed, and many have their tops broken and carried 
 off as relics. ' 
 
 f 
 
llAIin TIEARTEl) GALK- 
 
 Wo rcturnod, and I must add, not much orralified. It is 
 difficult to find the tomb, from weeds and long grass ; 
 but there is no difficulty in finding people ready to receive 
 gratuities tor telling you most improbable stories. 
 
 We wore hos[)itably regaled at the Consul's on our 
 retunj, and I had an opportunity of returning with 
 thanks my borrowed hal>ilinients. Called at the sun- 
 burnt Isle of Ascension ; taking on board some unfortu- 
 nate officers an<l men who had been invalided from tho 
 coast of Africa, 
 
 We had hitherto made a good passage, but now woro 
 met by a stubborn and hard-hearted N.E. gale, in which 
 we were compelled to lie-to under storm sails, tho sea 
 breaking completely over us. Our devoted siiip gave 
 one or two hc.ivy lurches, which carried everything 
 away between decks ; mess-tables, bags, including all 
 crockery and glass; these troubles were completed by 
 our being put on half allowance of water and provisions. 
 In this dilemma we exchanged numbers with the uhip that 
 letl Nankin fourteen days before us, having on board tho 
 despatches announcing *♦ Peace with China." This gale 
 lasted for nineteen days ; to us who had been anticipating 
 our arrival so soon, this <vas very provoking; and day alter 
 day passed, and we at last thought it would never end. 
 However, like most things it had an ending, and on tho 
 twentieth day, at eight in the morning, the long-looked-lbr 
 land appeared. A ])ilot boarded us ; it did one's heart good 
 to see a fresh and healthy face once more : we did not re- 
 quire his services, but I piit in his hand half-a-crown, and a 
 letter containing tho only words— ''all's mxW' and well," to 
 drop in the first post-office lie met. 'I'ho next boat which 
 
64 
 
 ARRIVE AT riTMOUTri. 
 
 boarded us was Aill of <* potatoes and inackercl." To us wlio 
 had been niuoteeu ihus on half aUowance of provision'^, 
 and now shai'ijoned up by a <oM onsterly wind, 1 need 
 not say wluit wjus done with this a<'ceptu!)lo ivliof ; frying, 
 boiUng; boiHn<i:, frying, tho wlioloday ; the; hi.ssinfjoftho 
 fr)ing-pan never ceased. A heavy gide again coming on 
 from tlio eastwanl compelled us to bear up for Plynjoutli, 
 where wo anchored in safety. Our feelings of joy 
 at this moment can neither bo imagined, nor well 
 <lescribed. On looking round, and convincing our.selvos 
 of the reality, all exclaimed — ''Thank God, hero we are 
 once more, " 
 
 Wo would indeed have been ungrateful, unthankiid 
 mortals, if wo did not feel our real position, after being 
 carried upwards of forty-four thousand miles over the 
 sea ; through all climates, through sickness, and through 
 war; through storm and tempest; and now brought back 
 to " the haven whore we would be" in safety, by an ever- 
 guidingand overruling Providence. Myself in particidar, 
 who had had three relajises of fover, during tho last of 
 which so far gone was I that my doctor asked mo if '* I 
 was prepared." ^^'ho had been rescued from drowning 
 on more than one occasion ; who had escaped the enemy 
 both by treachery and war ; now found myself safely 
 returned to my native land after an absence of years, 
 to offer up heartfelt and fervent thanks to llim who 
 alone could have broiight me out of all these dangers. 
 
 On landing 1 gave a cabby (No 377) doidde fare to 
 drive doubly fast, and in loss than an h<)Ur after the ship 
 was anchored, I was (juite unexi)ected among all those 
 near and dear to me. 
 
 
POUTSMOITTH. 
 
 05 
 
 L> US wlio 
 ovision'*, 
 , I need 
 ; ii-ying, 
 iirjot'tlio 
 \n\\\** on 
 lynioutli, 
 ( of joy 
 nor well 
 
 DUI'HOIVCS 
 
 •c wc aro 
 
 Uhankl'iil 
 ter l)eiurj 
 over tho 
 I tliroU}»li 
 lirht linck 
 an over- 
 articular, 
 10 last of 
 mo if* I 
 Irownin^ 
 10 cncuiv 
 )lf safely 
 jf years, 
 iiii who 
 Infers, 
 faro to 
 the ship 
 tU those 
 
 Tlic galo, wliifli continuetl for two days, onahlod nio to 
 make many flying visits; and so unexpected was my 
 arrival, that it wjih some time before I could mako myself 
 believed. Tho first abatement of the storm wo were off 
 to Portsmouth ; and, liavin^ one instalment of the Syceo 
 silver, amounting to one million of dollars, part indemnity 
 for tho Chinese war, wo had to go into tho harbour to 
 discharge it. 
 
 I never <'an forget tho lovely spring morning that 
 shone on us as wo were towed quickly by tho Victoria 
 ])ier at Portsmouth. Crowds had asHombled to welcome 
 our arrival ; tho bands played, " See the conquering hero 
 comtii; " "Where have you been roaming?" and '*Af\er 
 very many roving years." This, together with the cambric 
 liandkerchiefs waved by tho ladies iu acknowledgment 
 of their approval, made one not regret going so far and 
 through so much for even the momentary satisfaction 
 of bein^j considered a " hero." 
 
 Wo were lashed alongside tlie dock-yard, and com- 
 menced hoisting out tho silver (one million dollars in 
 Sycee). Of course this attracted many, who came to see it 
 as well as the shot-holes in the ship's side and rigging, 
 and the Chinese trophies collected on tho field of 
 battle. 
 
 Now, I am not going to bo romantic ; nor am I 
 going to deviate from my first intention of writing 
 simply and plainly. I cannot omit remarking that, 
 during the busy occupation of getting out our treas»n*e, 
 my eyes accidentally rested on a face, a form, a figure 
 that I cannot easily forget. I felt myself then and 
 thoro a prisoner ! It was my first impression ! Ihit I 
 
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 (716) 872-4503 
 
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66 
 
 FIRST IMPRESSION. 
 
 was Still a boy, and had not even mounted the 
 " white patch." 
 
 That evening was the most agreeable I had ever yet 
 spent. It passed provokingly fast ; the hour for our 
 parting arrived. I said adieu with a bursting heart, and 
 promised faithfully to return the instant duty would 
 release me. The ship was ordered to the eastward to be 
 paid off, and in the short space of three days and a half 
 the pendant was hauled down. 
 
 Next day I was appointed to another ship. 
 
1 the 
 
 er yet 
 
 ibr onr 
 ,rt, and 
 would 
 d to be 
 , a half 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 ON SHORE. 
 
 THE LAST CHAPTER — A NEW SHIP — COMPASS IN EEEOR — PLEASING 
 REMINISCENCES — OUTSIDE COACH — EXETER — AT HOME — 
 AGAIN AFLOAT — THE DOWNS — FITTING OITT — SLIPPED 
 MY MOORINGS — SOUTH-SEA ROOMS — THE PARTING — MOSS 
 ROSES — DECLINING HEALTH — HOSPITAL — DOINGS THEREIN — 
 ADVICE — PRIMROSE BOOTS — READT FOR SERVICE — APPLY FOR A 
 SHI? — BRUNSWICK — ^AGAIN AT PORTSMOUTH — THE REMEDY. 
 
 The latter part of the past chapter cost me many an 
 hour's reflection. I could not, for the life of me, imagine 
 why so young and so fascinating a girl should have 
 ventured a smile on me. I am sure my outward 
 appearance was not the most attractive ; all our clothes 
 had been hove to the winds to make room in our chests 
 for Chinese dresses and curiosities. The remaining part of 
 our clothing has been accounted for at Singapore. We 
 frequently used to boast of our slack and disreputable 
 rig, and we used to glory in it, for we knew that we were 
 again near our tailors. We all looked withered, sickly, 
 and dispirited, after our trying cruise ; we had not yet our 
 medals on our breasts; and this circumstance was, 
 therefore, to me most unaccountable. And what was still 
 
 F 2 
 
63 
 
 REMINISCENCES. 
 
 more marvellous, after all my prize-money had been 
 spent in another fit-out, of the most approved and stylish 
 fashion, and another ship obtained for me, I set out at 
 once, with the intention of a dutiful and affectionate son, 
 to visit *' home." But, afler travelling many hours, I found 
 myself actually within a few yards of the self-same spot 
 where we had discharged our treasure a few days since, 
 and the poor young sailor was again more deeply and 
 irretrievably in love than ever I 
 
 Two days was the utmost I allowed myself; but these 
 two, short as they were, have afforded me many of my 
 most pleasing reminiscences, and I often look back to them 
 with the pride and pleasure of a young sailor, and the 
 sincerest hopes that these recollections may soon again 
 be renewed. 
 
 I had to travel the remainder of my journey on the 
 outside of a " coach," in company with many other 
 sailors who had been paid off from their vessels, and 
 were about to squander their time, prize-money, and pay, 
 like myself. The jokes and fun we had on that coach 
 amused many land lubbers ai'ound us, who had not 
 been accustomed to the society of sailors. " How many 
 knots do you think she's going Bill?" " Seventeen off the 
 reel." " Just hove the log." " Jack, give us a pull at your 
 pistol ; mine has got the watch below." " Jack, I looks 
 toward you." " Bill" replies the other, **I has your eye." 
 " I expect we shall have to reef topsails and spread the 
 rain-awning before we sight this here land.'* On our 
 arrival at Exeter hot coffee was ordered for eight, but 
 the people took care not to bring it to us until we were 
 about to '' shove off," as Jack said ; however. Jack was 
 
THE DOWNS. 
 
 69 
 
 our 
 
 but 
 
 ■were 
 
 was 
 
 not to be done ; he unshipped the coach lanthom, 
 wiped it out, carefully poured the coffee, scorching hot, 
 into it; the coach "shoved oif," and the boiling coffee 
 was drunk leisurely as we went along the road. The 
 same evening myself and bag arrived safely at home in 
 the west of England; and, before turning in, I hove the 
 window up, and looked around. Ah ! thought I, with 
 an inward satisfaction to myself, no middle watch to keep 
 to-night — no topsails to reef I Pipe down ; the ship is 
 well moored, head and stem. 
 
 I must pass over a short interval at home — ^very short, 
 for I was no sooner on shore than I was anxious to be 
 afloat again ; and one fine morning found me a passenger 
 in an Irish steamer, with 350 pigs, countrymen of mine, 
 on my way to join my new ship to the eastward. 
 
 In the identical spot where we are infonned by un- 
 doubted authority that Black-eyed Susan paid the fleet a 
 visit when in search of her " beloved William" — in the 
 Downs — ^we were compelled to anchor in a dense fog, 
 which lasted twenty seven hours ; and I paced the deck 
 humming to myself these lines of that well known song : 
 
 ** Susan, Susan, lovely dear ! 
 
 My vows shall ever true remain ; 
 
 Let me kiss off that falling tear — 
 
 We only part to meet again. 
 
 Change as ye Ust, ye winds, my heart shall be 
 
 The faithful compass that still points to thee !" 
 
 Next day I joined my ship. 
 
 All the troubles and inconveniences of ** fitting out'* 
 at an eastern port were over ; the ship inspected, highly 
 approved, and we again sailed, but were ignorant of our 
 final destination. It was not very difficult to get under 
 
70 
 
 SOUTH-SEA ROOMS. 
 
 weigh from the "last place created." I slipped my 
 moorings easily ; although I fear, and at the same time 
 I must confess, that in a few more days I should have 
 had a *' foul anchor," and it would perhaps have been 
 difficult to " clear hawse." Parting, however, was not 
 so heart-rending. On arrival at the first port, I was sent 
 to answer a signal from the guard-ship, and I found 
 myself again not one hundred miles from the very spot 
 where not only had the treasure been first landed, but 
 discovered. After "duty" of course thoughts of pleasure 
 revived, and I was once more in the presence of the first 
 one who — 
 
 "South-Sea" rooms and their attractions are well known 
 to every midshipman as being the rendezvous, once a 
 week, of the most agreeable Tertulias. It was my good 
 luck to arrive here on a Thursday, and I enjoyed the 
 most pleasant evening imaginable. All the elite and 
 fashionable of Portsmouth were present ; and with the 
 happy mixture of blue coats and red jackets to enliven 
 the scene, I do not know where can be found more 
 select and attractable rooms. I was too much absorbed 
 to see anything that was going on around me, but I can 
 never forget — nothing can ever erase from my memory 
 — ^the evening of the 18th of May. Fair ringlets (I always 
 had a weakness for ringlets), and a still fairer face, had 
 made sad havoc in my heart. She was the most evan- 
 escent of beings ; her winning eyes, her flowing hair, the 
 beautiful transparency of her face ! she- looked '' as if she 
 had been made out of a rainbow, all beauty and peace." 
 
 The struggle of parting was soon over, but not 
 forgotten, and in a fbw hours afterwards we were in the 
 
MOSS HOSES. 
 
 71 
 
 she 
 
 not 
 the 
 
 wt lit of England. A signal having been made for a 
 mid., I was sent ; and for the first time I learned 
 that we were destined for the coast of Africa or 
 West Indies. 
 
 While on board the guard-ship I heard a witty reply 
 given by a boat's crew alongside, to the mid. or mate of 
 the watch. He hailed one of the many boats which had 
 ai'rived to copy orders, and said, " Are you the So-and- 
 so's boat ? " " No sir," says the bowman, " we're Roses i "" 
 *' Aye SU-," says the coxswain, lifting up a huge beard — 
 ** Aye sir, Moss-Eoses." This was one of the gigs of the 
 "Rose" in which the crew cultivated profuse beards, and 
 christening themselves *' Moss-Roses." Of course we all 
 smiled. 
 
 My health was not yet re-established from the severe 
 shock I had in China, and I often felt the effects of that 
 cruise; and, fearing the additional bad effects of an 
 African or West Indian clime, I am sent to the hospital ; 
 where, after six weeks, I was pronounced by a medical 
 board ready for " any service." 
 
 The sound of an *' hospital " is not very cheering, but 
 during these six weeks I found it, next to one's own home, 
 the most comfortable. You have almost every thing you 
 wish for, plenty of plain but nourishing diet, a comfortable 
 sleeping place in a large clean and airy ward, plenty of ex- 
 ercise, kind nurse attendants, luxuries if in need of them; 
 but the " small " beer — wholesome, but " very small " — 
 you must shut your teeth and strain the beer, leaving the 
 hops outside ; a pleasant prospect around on every side, 
 if you are possessed of a good telescope, and frequently 
 inside also ; many coming in to walk during the day. 
 
72 
 
 HOSPITAL. 
 
 "'I 
 1,1 
 
 Leave twice a week ; do not exceed it ; and do not pick 
 the flowers. ' " 
 
 I must plead guilty to having twice (in a good cause, 
 however) robbed the gardens. The *' Eiot Act" was read 
 in our ward, but I was never found out, for I was wise 
 cnougli to choose a time when all was stillness (10 p.m.) 
 to cull my bouquet — when no one would have fancied 
 invalids so mad as to be out in the night air. It may of 
 course be readily concluded that these flowers were not 
 for myself, or I would not perhaps have run such a risk ; 
 but we were surrounded by kind and attentive friends, 
 friends sympathising with you in your illness, and often 
 sending presents (which, I must add, are prohibited, 
 except they are "innocent and harmless"). We were 
 surrounded, I say, by kind and affectionate inquiries (the 
 west of England is proverbial for attention, hospitality, 
 and kindness) ; and it will hardly be thought that these 
 attentions made no impressions; hence robbing the flower- 
 gardens. 
 
 It is often remarked, that a sailor has in every port a 
 home, in every home a wife. Sailors are undoubtedly a 
 most susceptible race ; but the fact is this, they are 
 frequently at sea weeks, months, and sometimes years ; 
 the first port they enter, the first pretty face they see, they 
 are gone. Their hearts then are so susceptible fi'om being 
 miattacked, and from long absence, that very little makes 
 an impression, and, as I have said before, the first smile 
 " they are gone." It is, however, going a little beyond 
 the real case to say ** in every port a wife." This term has 
 no doubt been used to rhyme with the line before or 
 after ; "sweetheart " would perhaps be giving him credit 
 for all he deserves. 
 
PRIMROSE BOOTS. 
 
 7S 
 
 they 
 
 )eing 
 
 lakes 
 
 smile 
 
 rond 
 
 has 
 
 re or 
 
 redit 
 
 Weil, these attentions from without did, I must confess, 
 (for I am very candid), produce impressions within, 
 although we had not been at sea many years ; codes of 
 signals were interchanged by very simple means, and 
 very easily understood, and many a pleasant and agree- 
 able walk and talk around the grounds the signals 
 obtained for us. 
 
 • »«••• 
 
 I would strongly recommend, th3refore, my young 
 friends, not to allow the term " hospital " to deter you 
 from going there if necessary. You will find all I have 
 said ; you will, next to your own home, find it the most 
 comfortable and consoling in sickness and in sorrow. 
 You will not, perhaps, be surrounded by those to whom I 
 am much indebted, and for whom I have great esteem ; 
 othera may have taken their places. 
 
 Many of our wet days were passed in playing the 
 most delectable and intellectual game, " pitch and toss, " 
 for "rhubarb tarts" and cream — they were allowed, being 
 wholesome diet ; and I must not forget the few days we 
 had '* hay-making " within the walls. Of course only the 
 sick and those belonging to the hospital were permitted 
 to partake of this healthy and innocent enjojrment. 
 
 There was also a " little scene " with the " primrose 
 boots,^' which I dare not say anything of, beyond merely 
 showing that my memory is still fresh. A Dollond 
 detected for me that it required two servant girls to haul 
 these boots off after being wot through. What a tell-tale 
 a spy- glass is, to be sure ! how unconscious your victims 
 are that they are in the " field !" I would recommend all 
 young persons who inhabit front rooms to keep their 
 
Ill 
 
 74 
 
 THE BKUNSWICK. 
 
 curtains down. Curiosity is ever on the wing, and 
 idleness leads to it. 
 
 I have been long enough now at the hospital; I 
 begin to feel the good effects of my native climate, and 
 as I am pronounced by the faculty ** ready for sea," 
 I must be afloat again, particularly as 'Moss of time" 
 is severely felt by a young officer. Every minute is of the 
 utmost importance and consequence, and not a day 
 should be lost. 
 
 I applied for a ship, and whilst waiting a reply I 
 
 felt that I must take a trip to where does my 
 
 reader suppose ? The spot where the treasure was landed, 
 he will immediately conclude. The old *' Brunswick " 
 steamer had the honour of conveying me. I can scarcely 
 believe that I am again en route for a place I had 
 only a few days since bade adieu to for ever I The bare 
 idea is delight itself At Torquay we picked up a very 
 interesting family — ''five girls out of six squinted," or 
 had a *'cast," as it is termed by some more charitably 
 disposed. You could not tell for the life of you whether 
 they were looking at you or not, or whether all were 
 looking, or whether none at all were looking. I am not 
 saying this from any unkind motive, or from one of 
 mimicry ; but really it attracted attention. A sailor who 
 had been twenty years at sea needs no apprehension 
 of an impression in this instance. Perfectly safe, I think ! 
 
 The time appeared without an end. Plowever, it came 
 at last ; and 1 could scarcely believe that the very hand I 
 had pressed only a short time before, and said farewell 
 to for ever, was at this moment leaning on my arm. 
 
 My heart was gradually, yet imperceptibly, lessening ; 
 
or 
 
 tably 
 jther 
 rere 
 not 
 le of 
 Iwho 
 ision 
 ink! 
 
 THE REMEDY. 
 
 75 
 
 altogether going. I could not control it ; it was impos- 
 sible to help it ; no remedy that I could think of was an 
 antidote. However, next morning at breakfast I received 
 a partial cure, and the following was the prescription, for 
 any who may bo suifering in a like manner : 
 
 'Admmtltij, 20th July. 
 
 (( 
 
 Sir, 
 
 *' My Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty havin}? 
 appointed you to II.M.'s ship, the 'Blaze-away,' in China, it 
 is their Lordships' direction that you repair IMMEDLVTELY 
 to join the * Fuzee ' for a passage. 
 
 ** I am, Sir, 
 
 " Your humhle Servant," &c. 
 
 I gazed on the word IMMEDIATELY, witt three 
 rough and unmistakeable dashes made under it. A cold 
 chill came over me. "Go immediately to the 'Fuzee' to 
 join the *Blaze-away' in China, a place I had nearly died 
 in only a short time since," thought I. Can it be true I 
 Oh, yes, too true. I asked for it the day before yester- 
 day, and it was now granted. My portmanteau was 
 packed, and I took an affectionate farewell ; and I could 
 only console myself by the idea, that ** the pangs of 
 parting were soon to be healed by the prospect of 
 returning." 
 
 "g; 
 
I I 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 OUTWARD BOUND. 
 
 OUTWAM) BOUND — SLASHING FllIGATE — PAETINQ — COVE — PIC-NIC 
 — NEARLY LEFT BEHIND — AGREEABLE PASSENOEUS — A PAVO- 
 EITE — ilADEIEA — MY HOBSE BOLTS — PLACES VISITED — THE 
 CIRCUS — A TEA PARTY — CONCERT — THE PARTING VISIT — 
 THE JOLLY BOAT — THE LINE — WHO MANGLED THE MARINE — 
 midshipman's pleasure — RIO JANEIRO — BOMBARDMENT — 
 
 places of resort — the pious mid — your washerwo- 
 man's address — farewell rio — the wager — tristan 
 d'acunha. 
 
 " She walked the waters like a thing of life, 
 Darin^' the elements as if to strife ! " 
 
 I WAS now on board a " slashing frigate," commanded 
 by a gallant and kind-hearted captain, good officers, 
 and a smart crew. I had now been about two years a 
 sailor, and I was proud of saying, "I belong to that 
 smart frigate in the Sound." I began to look aloft with 
 the air and consequence of an experienced " salt," and 
 I really was proud of my profession. I would not have 
 changed it for any other — a sailor's life was the life 
 for me. Parting has always been to me very painful, and 
 I this time avoided it by endeavouring to attribute the 
 accident to the vessel being ordered to sea immediately. 
 
COVE OF CORK, 
 
 77 
 
 Cork— "Cove of Cork" — was our destination first. 
 " Cove " was my native place, tlio eye of Erin's green 
 isle, and I gazed on it with mixed feelings of joy and 
 sorrow. It gave me enough to do, in the short space of 
 time allotted, to see all my friends— at least, relations, 
 friends I had not many— and although but two days to 
 remain here, a pic-nic was immediately formed for tho 
 second day. The Cove girls can get up a pic-nic as quick 
 and complete as any people I know ; and we were all on 
 the Carigoline river early next forenoon. I was quite 
 at home ; the cloth was spread, the substantials laid out, 
 and a pigeon-pie placed before nio, 1 put my knife into 
 it, cut out a V, and looking up to ask who would 
 partake of any, to my horror I saw ray " crack frigate " 
 with the blue-peter flying and sails already loosed, 
 accompanied by a gun, which thundered its echoes 
 around us. Did I say good-bye? I forget. I rushed 
 down tO a boat, made them pull their strongest, and 
 while the ship was in ** stays," making the very^ last 
 tack, I jumped on board. ^* Adieu, old Ireland !" said I, 
 "you nearly had me for a short time." 
 
 " Adieu ! adieu ! my native shore 
 
 Fades o'er the waters blue ; 
 The night winds sigh, the breakers 
 
 And shrieks the wild sea-mew. 
 Yon sun that set upon the sea 
 
 "We follow in his flight ; 
 Farewell awhile to him and thee, 
 
 My native land — good night I " 
 
 •oar. 
 
 We were again fairly at sea, with the pleasure of 
 having the Governor of Hong-kong and his family 
 
7® 
 
 MADEIRA. 
 
 passengers to that place. It is always agreeable to have 
 persons of note on board, for it not only gives an 
 opportunity of talking to them, but talking of them ; 
 and it is particularly pleasant for the midshipmen, 
 for they get a good breakfast every morning-watch 
 they keep, and a champagne dinner once or twice 
 a-week. ' 
 
 T was fortunate in being a special favourite, not 
 from any merit of my own, but from the simple 
 reason that I was last from Hong-kong, and knew 
 all about it ; and the all I did know was the position 
 of the few fishing huts, the post office, and the 
 place the Admiral, or **old chap," was kind enough 
 to show me, " West Point, " when I met him on the 
 pier of a cold morning.* 
 
 This was somewhat later in the season than we 
 made our passage two years since, but equally fine; 
 and a short and pleasant run brought us to that 
 lovely isle, Madeira. 
 
 I began now to know Madeira a little better, and 
 since my last visit, my pay had increased from £16 
 a-year to £31 — a considerable addition. I was, therefore, 
 able to ride instead of walk ; and all the mids. on 
 this occasion, were mounted. Mine was a large cream- 
 coloured, powerful American circus-horse, that had 
 finished his work in that amusing line, and was now 
 earning a dollar a-day by carrying about midshipmen. 
 I was no sooner on his back than he bolted, fortunately 
 up a hill ; a poor old woman was kicked over (I never 
 
 * This admiral was afterwards my final passing officer at 
 Portsmouth. 
 
 ,iVr 
 
THE CIRCUS. 
 
 n 
 
 heard afterwards if she was killed). The horse was 
 unmanageable ; I was unprepared for such an event, 
 but hold on, and he soon became exhausted. These horses 
 are very often taught these tricks. They throw their 
 riders, return to their stables, and are then re-let, at the 
 same price, by their owners. The chaps who are hired to 
 attend these horses are great rascals, and impose on 
 a stranger in every possible manner. With the smaller 
 island horses they hold on to the tails all day, and 
 never leave you, and are helped up and down the 
 hills in this manner, and are constantly imploring 
 and annoying you for a small piece of money to 
 buy wine. 
 
 Nos Senora de Monte and the Pasenora Gardens 
 were visited by us all. The former, like all Spanish and 
 Portuguese chapels, full of mimicry, mummery, and 
 hypocrisy. The latter gardens are very tastefully 
 and prettily laid out, having a large circular fish- 
 pond in its centre. As I was on a circus-horse it 
 occurred to me that he might do a little "circus," 
 and round this pond I started. When about half way 
 a forked branch of a tree took me by the neck off 
 my long-legged animal. He passed on, and down I 
 came, flat, every part of me striking at the same 
 time, from my heels to the back of my head. I was 
 a little stunned, my clothes (a mid. always goes ashore 
 at Madeira in his best clothes), particularly about the 
 elbows, were rather abused, and altogether smeared 
 with a red mud of which the banks are composed. 
 I rose, andc ongratulating myself 'twas nothing worse, 
 shook myself, and mounted my faithful charger, now 
 
' 1 '4 
 
 iiii 
 
 
 T 
 
 80 
 
 A TEA PARTY. 
 
 |:| 
 
 by my side. The ovening was finished at our former 
 hospitable acquaintances. 
 
 Next evening, after visiting some of the best vine- 
 yards, I was invited to a ladies' tea-party, and, by 
 some unaccountable means, I found myself the only- 
 male, in the presence of nine ladies. I was a^ked 
 to be kind enough to "cut bread and butter." I 
 could not refuse. I had never committed myself so far 
 before, except in a mid.'s berth cutting off the best 
 crust, or "coasting," as we knowingly term it. The 
 evening was very warm, the loaf quite new, the 
 butter in ice, myself in a fever ; and I commenced, and 
 a pretty delicate cut I made of it. I thought I 
 should have melted ; all eyes were on me, and they 
 were all strangers except one. This one had no doubt 
 taken me for her protector on her return home. The 
 bread and butter was finished (that is the cutting 
 of it), and by attempting to apologize I of course made 
 it ten times worse. But they all unanimously and kindly 
 assured me that it was "just the thing," as "they 
 had all come firom the country and were lather hungry." 
 
 We all went to the concert in the evening and 
 Rubeno highly delighted and astonished us by his 
 wonderful performance on the violin. His imitations 
 of a canary, a cat, and a donkey — three animals 
 very unlike each other — were inimitable 1 ^^ 
 
 We again leave Madeira — not without some regret ! 
 but before starting we were favoured by a visit from 
 several ladies. The midshipmen's berth, which is always 
 very small in a frigate, was of course peeped into. 
 The sun, fortunately for us, was at that moment shining 
 
THE JOLLY BOAT. 
 
 81 
 
 Iretl 
 
 Irom 
 
 ^ays 
 
 ito. 
 
 through the scuttles, oh I said they, " what a nice snug 
 place you have got, when the sun shines on you." 
 This last was happily added, for I do not recollect 
 tho whole time I was in th"' ship a similar occurrence 
 taking place, therefore their impressions of our " com- 
 fort '* was unfortunate for us ; we got no sympathy. 
 The ladies departed, and so did we; and had soon 
 again nothing but sky and water to gaze upon. 
 
 The jolly-boat, which was hoisted up astern, was 
 covered over, having a small scuttle with a padlock 
 on it to protect vegetables, fruit, &c., from longing eyes. 
 This was the "fruit garden," and a good sea-stock 
 was laid in there, but it always disappeared quicker 
 than could be accounted for; it was impossible to 
 keep the longing eyes of a hungry middle-watch 
 midshipman from them, and he found an ingenious 
 contrivance for extracting the ripest banants, the 
 choicest orange, and the best grapes, without opening 
 the lock or destroying the cover ! We were all guilty ; 
 it was too tempting, we could not resist ; a midshipman 
 is an animal that requires feeding with something 
 hourly; the fresh air he inhales incites the digestive 
 powers, and they must be satisfied. We were nearly 
 found out many times, but always escaped by some 
 good management. One night in particular a number 
 of fine Spanish onions were gone, and the peculiar 
 odour they left after them nearly condemned us. 
 
 We crossed the line again, but on this occasion 
 having important passengers on board the arrangenif.nts 
 were, that the men may shave among themselves, 
 but the officers and passengers must not be interfered 
 
 O 
 
82 
 
 THL MANGLED MARINE. 
 
 i 
 
 i ! 
 
 JP 
 
 m 
 
 with. At this the men got the sulks, and would not 
 shave at all ; Neptune neither visited nor acknowledged 
 us on arriving in his dominion. Instead of shaving, 
 however, directly after breakfast the boatswain piped 
 "hands shift sails.** The day was spent in shifting 
 sails, up and down top-gallant yards &c.j and a 
 hot day's work it was; instead of the water running 
 into them, it was running freely off them ; this cured 
 the sulks ! 
 
 I had a very large sea chest, far beyond the 
 regulation size (every mid. must have a chest according 
 to size and pattern for uniformity and convenience 
 in stowage), and many a time mine was threatened 
 to be " docked/* but always fortunately escaped. Mid- 
 shipmen are generally allowed a marine on board a 
 ship to attend on them as a domestic to polish ^oots, 
 brush clothes, fetch water, &c. Hammocks are scrubbed 
 once a week or fortnight, according to circumstances, 
 and when dried, are, previous to being inspected, folded 
 up and pressed. ITiose servants wbo boast of masters 
 generally place their hammocks under the chests for 
 pressure. My marine was always envied at having 
 a huge chest, but one evening after the hammocks 
 had been "piped'* down, and we were all sitting at 
 supper Cquietly of course), we heard a smothered groan 
 in the steerage. All rushed to the rescue, and beheld 
 my immense chest turned over, and leaving nothing 
 to be seen under it but tlie fingers of two hands 
 and some human hair. We rescued my marine! He 
 had lifted up my " waggon " to put his hammock under, 
 the ship gave a roll, and mangled him and his hammock 
 
midshipman's pleasure. 
 
 83 
 
 ling 
 
 inds 
 
 He 
 
 ler, 
 
 Lock 
 
 at the same time. From that moment my chest was 
 christened the " mangle/' and it was a standing joke 
 against me, "Who mangled the marine t" All inside 
 was of course broken, bason, tumbler, scent-bottles, &c., 
 and it made me unamiable for some time afterwards. 
 
 "Midshipman's pleasure'* consists in putting his chest 
 to rights, or more correctly speaking, ** putting it all 
 wrong f if he has an hour to spare, and is fortunate 
 enough to get a small bit of candle to stick in the 
 comer of the lid, to enable him to reach and to 
 see the bottom, then he makes up his mind for a 
 little "mid.'8 pleasure." The tills are taken out and 
 the chest emptied piece by piece. The great object 
 is to ascertain correctly how many clean shirts, trowsers, 
 stockings, &c., remain for the rest of the voyage, and 
 this becomes a source of anxiety when the voyage is 
 prolonged by unavoidable causes. The chest is emptied 
 and dusted out, the things returned in order, the 
 shirts by themselves, the handkerchiefs here, the 
 waistcoats there, the cloth clothes in that comer, the 
 boots and blacking in this, the bason and soap 
 and night watch-coats on top af all. By this time the 
 domestic marine aiTives : " Hollo, sir, what's up now ? '* 
 " You might have sent for me, sir, before you capsized 
 your chest." Servants do not like to see the chest 
 overhauled without their knowledge ; the next time 
 he comes to the chest he knows not where a single 
 thing is. Perhaps his master will five minutes before 
 send for him, "hurrah. Cheeks, I'm going to dine with 
 the Captain, get me out a clean shirt, clean hand- 
 kerchief, waistcoat, stockings, trowsers, and I'll put 
 
 O 2 
 
8^ 
 
 RIO. 
 
 li 
 
 Oil a clean flannel to-day as to-morrow will be Saturday, 
 and get me some water to wash, and my boots clean, 
 they're a little wet, but never mind." All this in 
 five minutes ; the chest lias to be completely routed 
 out to find these things. It is truly said of a mid- 
 shipman's chest, that *^all is on top and nothing 
 at hand." After this hour or two hours' " pleasure " 
 he rushes into the berth and announces his good fortune. 
 " Hurrah my boys, seven clean shirts, besides this one 
 on, and five pair of trowsers." "Ohl lend us one, old 
 fellow, as I have but two, and you shall have one 
 of my best ones when we get into port." ** Don't you 
 wish you may get it, old fellow I" "Lend," as tb« 
 black fellow says, " bery much like gib." 
 
 Arrived at the spacious harbour of Rio Janeiro, 
 which we find crowded with vessels of war, of all 
 nations, consequent on the eventful circumstance of 
 the arrival and marriage of a Neapolitan princess with 
 the Emperor; a large Neapolitan squadron being 
 present. Scarcely a day passed without a salute of 
 some sort First we had to salute the Brazilian flag ; 
 then the American Commodore ; and at noon fired 
 a royal salute to commemorate the birth-day of the 
 King of Denmark. At eight next morning, being the 
 birth-day of the Princess Januarias, fired a royal 
 salute, and at noon another royal salute to celebrate 
 the Emperor's accession to the throne. The next day 
 the Sritish Minister was saluted ; at noon a royal 
 salute to commemorate the coronation day of the 
 Princess Januarias; next the Emperor afloat, and a 
 royal salute was fired, and this bombardment finished 
 
PLACES OF RESORT. 
 
 85 
 
 ag; 
 
 ired 
 the 
 the 
 
 the 
 
 d a 
 
 bhed 
 
 with all vessels topping their yards, hoisting colours 
 half-mast, and firing minute guns the whole day, for 
 Don Pedro, who died nineteen years since. This firing 
 daily from twenty-four vesssls of war will give some 
 idea of the noise and uproar caused in the calm and 
 tranquil harbour of Rio de Janeiro ! 
 
 The Spanish Opera and the French Theatre were 
 open ; the streets were illuminated and decorated with 
 fireworks and triumphal arches. Each of these were 
 visited by us, but were very tame indeed. We 
 had stalls, and the most agreeable part was standing 
 up between the acts and gazing around the dress 
 circles, where many pretty, yet delicate looking faces 
 appeared. " Soap Street," the Regent Street of Rio, has 
 the most attractions. This is the evening promenade ; 
 and it is most enlivening to pass up and down, and 
 admire the many excellent shons, with their numerous 
 feir occupants, making the most exquisite feather flowers. 
 It is in one of these a purse will soon get light, but 
 the artificial flowers are the most beautiful in the 
 world. 
 
 One of our pious midshipmen, not gifted with the 
 most steady or thoughtful disposition, having had 
 to spend an evening on board another vessel, from 
 which he could not obtain a boat to return, rashly 
 swam from the vessel, came up the chain cable dressed 
 in bojr's clothes, and astonished us all in the berth 
 by narrating his mad exploit. (Rio harbour swarms 
 with sharks.) This is the same quiet midshipman who 
 was one day dared by a soldier to jump off the jioop 
 of a line of battle ship, the ship going eight knots at 
 
 
86 
 
 YOUR WASHERWOMAN. 
 
 the time. He took a chair in his hand, on which the 
 soldier had been sitting, and over he went. The ship 
 had to be hove to, and a boat lowered for him. Having 
 left the servicei or the service left him, I forget which, 
 he is now a Reverend Divine of the Church of England. 
 
 I think I have before said, "get the address and 
 whereabouts of your washerwoman.'* It was ten at night, 
 and we were to sail at daylight next morning, and no 
 clothes appeared. Three or four of us obtained leave and 
 went, determined to redeem our valuable kits. Unfor- 
 tunately this time Mrs. Baker lived in a barracks, and we 
 had to storm the sentries ; with our horses and guides we 
 dashed past every body, sentries, muskets, and bayonets, 
 not heeding the challenge. Brazilian sentries are not 
 prepared for immediate or unexpected action ; they have 
 to think a good deal ! But now all the barracks were 
 disturbed, not before we had rescued our clothes and 
 escaped ; after they had rubbed their eyes, and lit their 
 cigarettos, we were gone. But I am sure if they had 
 caught us, we should have had no mercy shown for our 
 rashness ! 
 
 We passed out of Rio Harbour, all the vessels 
 dipping their ensigns to say "good bye." At that 
 hour the Corco-vado, several thousand feet high, 
 and the Sugar-loaf, stood out in purple tints and 
 imposing grandeur. The forts hailed us; not that 
 they expect, or ever get an answer, for they mutter 
 something most unintelligible. The land breeze took 
 us out early in the morning, and between ten and 
 eleven the sea breeze met us. 
 
 Mids., when they have nothing to do (which for- 
 
 A 
 
THE WAOER. 
 
 87 
 
 tunately for them is not often), are always meditating 
 some tricks or some mischief. The quieter a mid. appears, 
 the more deep is to be the design ; and when he is 
 apparently thinking quietly to himself— then look out I 
 We had on this occasion nothing to do ; we had a 
 spare half hour, and we bet one of our messmates 
 that he would not drink a tumbler of beer with a 
 tea-spoon. He accepted and commenced, and won after 
 a severe struggle. He assured us he would not do 
 the same again for any consideration ; it was the most 
 nauseous dose that can be imagined ; it, however, amused 
 us for an hour, and we were satisfied. 
 
 The solitary, but interesting island of Tristan 
 D^Acunha was passed about twenty miles distant, its 
 summit, which is 800 feet high, covered in clouds. 
 Here we caught a cape pigeon, having a piece of 
 canvas round his neck, but the inscription had washed 
 off; he had no doubt been taken by some other vessel, 
 and was so well treated that he came again to us. 
 Many of these pretty birds were caught, as well as 
 an albatross, but set at liberty again when they had 
 received Her Majesty's mark. • * j 
 
 Tristan D'Acunha is a vast barren rock in the 
 South Atlantic, of which very little appears to be 
 known. After it had been determined by the British 
 Government that St. Helena should be the future 
 abode of Napoleon, it was deemed advisable to 
 occupy it, where, in case of any attempt to rescue 
 the imperial prisoner, he might be placed in still 
 greater security. A company of artillerymen was sent 
 out to this desolate isle, distant at least 1,500 miles 
 
OS 
 
 TRISTAN D'ACUNHA. 
 
 from the nearest continental shore. It was a place 
 hitherto visited only by ships which had been driven out 
 of their course, for the purpose of obtaining a fresh 
 supply of water, or to repair any damage produced 
 by stress of weather. When Buonaparte died, Tristan 
 D'Acunha was evacuated by the company, who were 
 glad enough to return to their native country, after 
 a sojourn of some years upon this inhospitable shore. 
 They were recalled by order of the British Government, 
 who had no longer any motive for continuing the 
 expense of a garrison in a remote region, where the 
 active services of troops would, in all probability, never 
 be required. Having demolished the garrison, they 
 took their departure, after a day of general festivity. 
 There was, however, one among them named "Glass,** 
 who requested that he might be permitted to remain 
 with his wife, to take their chance on this solitary 
 spot It was looked upon as a mad freak, but no 
 objection being made, his comrades left him in charge 
 of an uninhabited island, with only his wife to relieve 
 his solitude, and enliven the dull monotony of a life 
 that promised no future enjoyment. Nevertheless, he 
 was content to brave all chances that might befal him, 
 and when he showed that his request was sincere, it 
 was at once acceded to, amid the banters of his comrades, 
 who called him the "ragged king," but heartily bade 
 him God speed. Glass was consequently left with 
 a stock of provisions, a small crop of wheat, biscuits, 
 fishing-tackle, &c. ; he had a number of goats, sheep, 
 and other necessaries. It fortunately happened, that 
 he and his wife had always lived contentedly together. 
 
THE WIDOW. 
 
 89 
 
 it 
 
 .» 
 it 
 
 It was toward the domain of "Governor Glass" 
 that a boat lately and so unhappily swamped 
 had jeen steering ; which threw a gloom over the little 
 coran unity. A vessel was wrecked near this spot; 
 a few had been saved; among them, one who would 
 not be comforted, he had lost his dearest friend — his 
 brother. For hours he did not utter a word ; he clung 
 to the body of his deceased relative; the bodies of 
 the drowned were cast into one grave ; the bereaved 
 brother was iiot to be consoled. At night he stealthily 
 quitted his louch and pursued his way to the sad 
 spot where the remains of his brother lay. A dis- 
 covery was now made; this person ttimed out to be 
 a woman ; she unconsciously betrayed her sex during 
 her paroxysms of fever; underneath her jacket she 
 wore a loose pair of stays, and within these carefully 
 sewn was a iiarriage certificate, by which it was 
 seen the supposed brothers were man and wife. The 
 youth met his beloved on a Sunday eve (near London), 
 bore her to the ho ise of a female friend ; next morning, 
 by pawning his >vatch, a license was obtained, they 
 were married, the young couple were deserted by their 
 friends, they engaged in the vessel that had been 
 wrecked, and the late happy wife had already become 
 a bereaved widow. 
 
 On a future occatiion I shall have much to say 
 and many novel events to narrate concerning this very 
 interesting spot, if, as I have before said, my leaves 
 do not get too bulky dming my midshipman's career. 
 
/«• 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 BIMON's hay — TlIK BALI. — THE PEA-OUEEX CAKT — WKT TnUOUOH 
 
 — CAPE TOWN — AFFECTIONATE EMBRACE — WINEBKBO — SAIL 
 
 — PROVIDENTIAL ESCAPE — SUNUA — ALCE8TE ROCK — A BOAT 
 ON THE OCEAN — TUE DREAM — THE GALLOWS — N.E. MONSOON 
 
 — NARROW ESCAPE — MAN OVERBOARD — HONQ-KONO — THE 
 BOAT ON THE OCEAN IS SAVED. 
 
 It. .■ W 
 
 At the Cape of Good Hope there is a peculiar flat-topped 
 mount, called " Table Mountain." When this is capped 
 with mist the cloth is said " to be spread," and this is a 
 sure indication of a coming gale. 
 
 Again we found ourselves at anchor in Simon's Ba;y, 
 the marks being "Noah's Ark and Cape Hanglip in 
 one." The anchor was scarcely seated in the mud, when 
 the following invitation was received to a farewell ball 
 given by the Governor, before his departure from the 
 Cape. 
 
 " Government Houoe, Cape Totcn. 
 
 " His Excellency the Governor and Lady , request the 
 
 pleasure of the comprny of the young gentlemen of the Mid.'s 
 berth of H.M.S. to a ball at 9.30 p.m. 
 
 " The aide-de-camp anraits an answer." 
 
 Invitations had been issued a fortnight previous, and 
 
THE CAPE. 
 
 91 
 
 the ball was to take place this evening. We had twenty- 
 five miles to go ; it was already six p.m., and no time was 
 to be lost 
 
 This is why a sailor enjoys the sea so much, the con- 
 trast is so great ; four or five weeks baffling and buffeting 
 the storms, tossed here, tossed there, nowhere at ease, 
 then, the moment he arrives in port made everything 
 of, asked here, invited there, and sometimes literally 
 spoiled. Last night we could scarcely stand on the deck, 
 the winds blew and the waves were mountains high (all 
 sailors know the awful sea off Cape L'Agulbas) ; so 
 strong was the former that the fore-topsail was blown to 
 atoms, the sea so high that the ship nearly rolled her 
 masts over the side, and we were in momentary fear of 
 the guns breaking loose. To-night we were to bo in a 
 ball-room, surrounded by welcomes and happy smiles I 
 
 I have said before, " no time was to be lost." On our 
 arrival on shore, to our mortification, found all convey- 
 ances already gone. Nothing in the shape of a horse, 
 donkey, or vehicle could be had for love or money ; there 
 were none, and it was impossible to walk twenty-five 
 miles over quicksands and through rivers. 
 
 We were not to be done. At half past six an idea 
 occurred, ideas are ever ready with a mid. when in 
 distress. — 
 
 In the small, neat, but scattered town of Simon's Bay, 
 there lived a " baker," who had of course a baker's cart, 
 this was then the idea, and to the baker's shop we went, 
 with our carpet bags on our shoulders, containing our 
 pumps and kid gloves. After a great deal of persuasion, 
 a great loss of time, and a handsome reward, we were 
 
 % 
 
 ! 
 
92 
 
 THE PEA-GREEN CART. 
 
 promised the pony and "pea-green cart" which must 
 be back again by daylight (fifty miles) to carry round 
 the daily bread. We did not care much what it had to 
 do next day, but as quick as possible we got into it, 
 placed the backboard across for a seat, and the pro- 
 prietor of the vehicle took the reins, over a rough, sandy 
 beach, every now and then rolling over a boulder, and 
 of a dark night it may be concluded the ride was not a 
 steady or comfortable one, and we prayed for the finish. 
 It did finish, and without an accident ; and the unhappy 
 owner returned to take out his morning's bread, after 
 leaving us at the hotel. 
 
 " None but the brave deserve the fair," — ■ 
 
 and thus concluded that we had but to "spin this yarn" 
 of our perseverance, and we should not want a partner 
 that evening. 
 
 After rigging ourselves in our new uniforms, we set 
 out for Government House (it was thei.' eleven at night), 
 but had not gone ten minutes before we were washed 
 down by rain. There was no retreat, a^ nouses shut, and 
 we had to wade through it. On arriving at our destina- 
 tion, before being presented, we dried ourselves before a 
 large fire in the waiting-room. 
 
 " Misfortunes they never come single 'tis true." 
 
 We could hardly have supposed it possible, on enter- 
 ing the ball-room, that Cape Town contained so many 
 so pretty and so fascinating a number as were here 
 
 I 
 
i I 
 
 THE BALL. 
 
 93 
 
 collected to say adieu to one of the most popular, 
 beloved, and esteemed of governors. 
 
 Although midnight, we were not a bit late, and were 
 soon sweeping round the room with the rest It was 
 the first time we had met any Dutch people, and the 
 ladies were the most animated " lumps of life," plump 
 little creatures, we had ever seen ; all smiles and habit- 
 shirts. There was much spirit among the dancers, and 
 all was lifr itself. The supper was splendid, and the 
 champagne went flying about in all directions, a minia- 
 ture cannonade. All attempt at conversation was use- 
 less from the cries of '* John, more champagne," and the 
 popping of corks. . ., 
 
 The belle of the room was a lovely girl, daughter of a 
 colonel, whose name I forget ; she was dressed in lace 
 over white satin ; her hair was black, with black piercing 
 eyes, a face of perfect form and whiteness, and a most 
 symmetrical figure. Many an eye was fixed on her 
 that evening. In one of the quadrilles I was vis-a-vis 
 to a very young and pretty Dutch girl, and asked my 
 
 partner who that was ; she replied, ** Mrs. , she 
 
 has been a bride some months." At twelve and thirteen 
 they sometimes marry here ! It is considered a i)as- 
 sable age. She appeared to me to be almost too young 
 for a ball-room. 
 
 It is unnecessary to say we enjoyed ourselves, when I 
 state that it was not until five o'clock, until the daylight 
 had fairly driven us out of the ball-room, that we made 
 our salaam. 
 
 We saw all that was to bo seen of Cape Town, 
 namely, the library, the promenade, and the cloudi of 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 ! 
 
 I 
 
94 
 
 THE EMBRACE. 
 
 red dust, and it was then found almost as difficult to 
 return as to get up here, all traps having been hired ; 
 at an exorbitant fare, however, we got a horse and gig. 
 
 The trip down was going jn very quietly, for we were 
 both very sleepy and tired, indeed, the horse had it much 
 his own way, when suddenly I found myself with my 
 arms round the horse's neck, in the most affectionate 
 manner, and the horse on his knees, having brought up 
 against a boulder in the sand, and nearly smashed the 
 gig. A severe cut on my right leg, a tolerable good 
 shake, and no further injury — we were off again. 
 
 Again passed through that lovely spot, Wineberg ; it 
 brings to your recollection at once scenes of home, of 
 byegone days. In the approach to it the trees meet 
 overhead, and form an avenue often to be seen in 
 England. You cannot help fancying that you have 
 been suddenly brought back to your native home once 
 more, until the white sands, and the arid, barren, sea- 
 wQrn coast, again undeceive you. Were I at all in- 
 clined to be romantic, I might fill a "leaf or two" with 
 thQ attractions that this place afford* a visitor ; but as 
 my young readers know that it is far from my original 
 intention to be so, I must leave to them the privilege of 
 imagination and fiction, for they may know that even in 
 the events of our " last ball " there was ample material 
 for a novel, if I wa^ so inclined, and many a novel has 
 been filled having a less foundation. 
 
 The Cape was sailed from, and fresh westerly gales, 
 after we cleared the L'Agulhas bank, wafted us along at 
 a merry rate, scuddmg-sail, — booms, small sails, and 
 sometimes large sails, carrying ^way and splitting, until 
 
THE ESCAPE. 
 
 95 
 
 one evening late, when rolling along before a brisk gale, 
 the ship and all on board were nearly lost. 
 
 About nine o'clock, the night dark, dreary and stormy, 
 and a heavy sea rolling after us, the hands were sud- 
 denly turned up, land was close under the bows, it was 
 St. Paul's Island, all sail was at once shortened and the 
 helm put down, and the swell off the land was such, 
 when otir broadside got into it, that I thought the noble 
 frigate, with all her valuable freight, would have rolled 
 over on her beam ends. We had not time to trim the 
 yards and sails, every one expe jting the ship to strike ; 
 fortunately she drew off it, and sail was again made ! 
 
 We supposed ourselves to be about twenty -five miles 
 off, but the current and set of the westerly gales had 
 sent us ahead of our reckoning. If we had struck not 
 one could have hoped to be saved, as the sea was lash- 
 ing furiously against a steep and craggy coast, and the 
 ship mu&t have gone to pieces in an instant. Here then 
 let us pause for a moment This is, I think, the first 
 instance of an escape from shipwreck ; a storm, sickness, 
 the enemy, and from drowning, have I been rescued by 
 a merciful and ever-guiding Providence. Now I cannot 
 help seeing the same finger of mercy guiding us from 
 shipwreck, pointing out to us our danger, dragging us 
 from a yawning and watery grave, and placing us in 
 safety. Surely the Lord is with us, the God of Jacob is 
 our reftige. Ought not this example to induce us to fly to 
 Him for refuge, for He says unto us, " If ye come unto 
 me I will in no wise cast you out." 
 
 We entered the straits of Sunda, after making the 
 fastest passage from the Cape to Java Head on record. 
 
96 
 
 THE ALCE8TE. 
 
 On passing Anger, where we obtained a supply of turtle, 
 toggery, and fruit, vivid recollections of the Postmaster- 
 General's visit came before me; we did not see him 
 again, fortunately for the feelings of our aristocratic 
 passengers. 
 
 Going through Macclesfield Straits, passed the " Al- 
 ceste Rock," where the frigate of that name became a 
 wreck On her return from the embassy to China with 
 Lord Amherst she struck and was soon in pieces ; part 
 of the crew went to Batavia in the boats, and the Dutch 
 Government sent and released the remainder. 
 
 Heavy squalls of wind and rain, with vivid thunder 
 and lightning, will always be found in these straits. 
 
 When passing the " Rob Roy" shoal, off Borneo, I 
 was one fine evening leaning on the hammock-netting 
 contemplating, " building castles in the air," when I saw 
 what appeared to me a boat, with four hands, and a fifth 
 standing up waving his hat. I was so sure of it that I at 
 once reported the circumstance to the officer of the 
 watch, and he to the Captain. The helm was put up 
 and a course steered for it, but at the same time all 
 argued against me, and thought it could be nothing else 
 than one of the many logs of wood we had been passing 
 all day, with birds on it ; however, to clear consciences, it 
 was run for, but the night closing in fast, all still fancy- 
 ing it a log of timber, again hauled to the wind ; I was 
 positive my eyes did not deceive me. 
 
 That night I dreamt of the selfsame raft ; I fancied 
 we bore up for it, and came alongside a long, low, 
 Spanish galliot. The first object that attracted my 
 attention was a lovely Spanish female sitting on the 
 
THE DREAM — THE GALLOWS. 
 
 97 
 
 3ied 
 
 low, 
 
 my 
 
 the 
 
 taf&ail, stowing away some things in the lockers near 
 which she sat, as if to conceal them. We came along- 
 side, chains to chains, and went on board, but as I was 
 stepping from one ship to the other, a small poodle dog 
 snapped at me, missed, and fell into the sea ; we in- 
 spected the ship throughout and then returned, hoisted 
 the jib, and bore away. I could describe every particle 
 of dress this Spanish girl had on, and every minute par- 
 ticular of the vessel, it made such an impression on me ; 
 but it would occupy space unnecessarily. I think there 
 was also a female companion with the Spanish girl. 
 
 On our passage across from Luzon to Hong-Kong 
 in the monsoon, I was nearly getting into trouble for 
 doing really what I did not do, and thus it may be seen 
 that poor, harmless, innocent midshipmen, may some- 
 times get credit and get punished for an act which, if 
 the truth were known, never occurred to them. The 
 first lieutenant, or commander of a large ship, goes the 
 rounds every night at nine o'clock, to see that everjrthing 
 is secure, and particularly " all lights out ;" follow- 
 ing him are generally a large train of attendants ; the 
 mate of the deck, the petty officer of the deck, the 
 marine officer, master at arms, corporal, Serjeants, and 
 many others, which there is no occasion to mention, and 
 every deck and store-room, magazine, and tiers, all in- 
 spected minutely. When all over, it is reported to the 
 Captain, " Fire and lights out. Sir, and all's correct." 
 
 Well now, it is not pleasant when an officer is zea- 
 lously performing an onerous, and indeed laborious, 
 duty of this sort, and accompanied by so many beholders, 
 to be suddenly and unexpectedly "hung" in the steer- 
 
 1 
 
98 
 
 MONSOON. 
 
 age on his passage along the decks ; the moment he 
 brought up, of course all his retinue brought up against 
 him, and pushed him further into this very awkward 
 position. 
 
 On this unlucky night I had turned in, I think, for 
 the purpose of seeing Hong-Kong early in the morning, 
 and many others had also turned in preparatory for 
 their night watches, but not at this moment asleep. I 
 had left the noose of my hammock-lashing hanging 
 down (the running noose which goes over the end) ; into 
 this the first luff, had placed his head accidentally, and 
 the motion of the ship rolling, combined with the motion 
 of the body in progression, tightened the noose, and left 
 the officer hanging. It caused an immense sensation, 
 and we in our hammocks endeavoured to suppress a 
 burst of laughter, but it was no use, we relieved our- 
 selves. Now it was difficult, under these circumstances, 
 to persuade my chief officer that this was unintentional, 
 and that I knew nothing whatever of it, and for the 
 whole of the next day I was in bodily fear of being 
 reported to the Captain; but no doubt he concluded 
 what really v is the case. 
 
 The N.E. monsoon came on with all its fury off Cape 
 Bolina of Luzon ; we were rather unprepared, and many 
 ropes parted before it. I was on the poop at the time 
 of its freshening, having an hour's chat with our lady 
 passenger about the pleasures of Hong-Kong, its pic- 
 turesque but unhealthy valleys, our unfortunate selec- 
 tion of it for a depot, and the mild and unassuming 
 appearance of it to me in 1841 ; for, as I have before 
 said, I often was asked to " come and talk about Hong 
 
NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 99 
 
 lady 
 pic- 
 
 3lec- 
 
 Kong." This evening we were sitting on the sdme cot 
 on the poop, looking at th^ crested waves as they camo 
 towards us, and inhaling the first of the monsoon, which 
 was refreshing after the calm and toilsome hours, which 
 were slowly passed while coming up the coast near 
 Manilla. The moment the breeze swelled our sails and 
 tautened the ropes, I heard a crash overhead ; on get- 
 ting up suddenly the cot topped over with the opposite 
 weight, and threw the lady over on the lee side of the 
 skylight ; the peak hauliards had carried away, and the 
 peak fdl between us ; the cot overturning saved the 
 lady's life ! She did not, perhaps, feel her real danger, 
 but if we had both sat still, nothing could have saved 
 either of us. Soon after a man fell overboard, but 
 swimming well, and the life-buoy and boats down in an 
 instant, he was rescued from a watery grave. ' 
 
 We anchored at Hong-Kong, and had not been long 
 here when the "Cornwall" transport arrived, having on 
 board the boat and unfortunate crew that we saw near 
 the Pallawan Passage, at least that / saw, but no one 
 else would see. The unfortunate men said they be- 
 longed to a New Zealand ship (for they were all New 
 Zealanders), and were wrecked on some unknown shoals. 
 They acknowledged " having seen a vessel which ran 
 towards them, but coming on dark ran away again." 
 What must have been their feelings I It wUi be seen, 
 that at the time I observed this boat, it made such an 
 impression on me, that the same night I had it before 
 me in my dreams. 
 
 long 
 
 h2 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 CHINA DURING PEACE. 
 
 THE FLAG-SHIP — AN OLD FEIEND — FLOGGING EOTTND THE FLEET — 
 HONG-KONG IMPROVED — A MIDSHIPMAN'S PIC-NIC — FEAEFUL 
 ACCIDENTS — THE BOOUE FORTS — PILOT SOUEEZED — CANTON — 
 CHIN CHIN JOSS — FLOWER BOATS — MAGNIFICENT SCENERY — 
 THE JITNKS — A CUM8HAW — WHAMPOA — LONG JIMMY — BROKE 
 MY LEAVE — OEiJEEED TO INDIA — MACAO — A SALUTE IN THB 
 SMOKE— OLD SHIP. 
 
 Again we were at Hong-Kong, close off the pier, where 
 I had seen my kind old guide in a shooting jacket and 
 hig stick ; I never landed there without thinking of it, 
 and him. 
 
 I was immediately sent to the flag-ship, to wait a 
 passage to my old vessel the " Blazeaway." Here I had 
 again the happiness to meet an old and much-esteemed 
 messmate ; time, however, had parted us, he was in the 
 ward-room, and I in the gun-room, but this did not part 
 friendship on his side ; he is now at the top of the tree, 
 one of the most distinguished and gallant officers in the 
 British navy, and the brightest ornament to his pro- 
 fession. 
 
A SCENE. 
 
 101 
 
 " FLOGGING ROUND THE FLEET." 
 
 This was the first time I had witnessed this mode of 
 punishment — ^I hope it may be the last 
 
 Two men had been tried by a court martial for deser- 
 tion, found guilty, and sentenced to be flogged round 
 the fleet, receiving 100 lashes each. One was the son 
 of a rich merchant of Liverpool, a youth seventeen years 
 of age ; the other also a young, good-looking fellow. In 
 the launch of the vessel to which the men belonged a 
 triangle was rigged of three capstan bars, to which was 
 seized a grating, and to which was seized the sufierer. 
 The boats of the squadron attended, all officers and crews 
 in proper dress, alongside of their own (the prisoners') 
 ship ; after the hands being turned up to punishment, 
 the warrant read,' and the article of war repeated, " Any 
 one in or belonging to the fleet, who shall desert, or 
 entice others to do so, shall suffer death, or such other 
 punishment as a court martial shall impose." 
 
 Each offender received twenty lashes by the boat- 
 swain's mates of his own ship ; the launch was next 
 towed to the Flag-ship, followed by all the boats, 
 having a guard of marines in each, the hands turned up, 
 the warrant and articles of war again read, and twenty 
 lashes administered to each culprit ; then tow^ed to the 
 next senior officer's ship, the same ceremony gone 
 through, and so on to the other ships, until 100 lashes 
 each had been inflicted. The launch, with the unfor- 
 tunate fellows, towed to their own ship, and all boats 
 returned to their respective vessels, ended a scene to me 
 very revolting. Fortunately, it is not of frequent occur- 
 
 Pacific N. W. History Dept. 
 
 PROVINCIAL. LIBRARY 
 VICTORIA, & 6. 
 
102 
 
 TUE PIC-NIC. 
 
 rence; our service is so improving, that there will be 
 no necessity for this. Again, this was a mitigation of 
 the punishment, which was, by the articles of war, 
 « death" 
 
 Hong-Kong had most astonishingly improved in 
 appearance since my last visit, with many substantial 
 additions. We had now a theatre, hoteis, a site for a 
 church, a governor, and one or two streets forming — 
 Queen Street, Cat Street, &c. Still there was " Happy 
 Valley," the untimely grave of many an unfortunate. 
 The place was still sickly, and many deaths, notwith- 
 standing every precaution ; the town, during the S.E. 
 monsoon of six months, was in a perpetual calm, the 
 miasma and malaria arising and taken up by the in- 
 tolerable heat of the sun during the day, fell again as 
 dew during the night; every one was spiritless and 
 desponding. 
 
 A grand pic-nic was given to-day, to which I, as a 
 stranger, was invited. It was an ebullition of good 
 feeling from the mids. to the Admiral, Captain, and 
 ward-room officers, of the ship I now belonged to. 
 
 All went in Chinese boats, but on shoving off from 
 the ship, a wild and careless midshipman fired a pistol 
 by accident, and blew away all the lower jaw and collar 
 bone of an intelligent little Chinese boy who was attend- 
 ing on us (as he spoke English). He was hoisted in and 
 his wounds dressed ; he was terribly dLsfigured. Away 
 we went to Cowloon, the mainland of China, over rocks 
 and hills, firing our guns at stray pigs, cocks, dogs, and 
 poultry. A pig was shot by one of our young fellows, 
 for which he had to pay five dollars. Arrived at a clean 
 
FEAKFUL ACCIDENTS. 
 
 103 
 
 joss-house, where our dinner was spread, and wliile 
 drinking our after-dinner wine, off went my gun, which 
 somebody was looking at, and tv»v) more Chinese 
 suffered. The shot being small, and some distance off, 
 and their skulls rather thick, they were not killed, and 
 they were led howling to their homes : how they got on 
 we never afterwards learned. We did not return till 
 nine p.m. ; some more wild and wicked than the rest, did 
 not then consider the day finished, went on shore, 
 and concocted a bowl of punch, which made us ready 
 for anything. Every Chinaman carries a neat and 
 light paper lanthorn ; we thought we could carry them 
 instead, and therefore relieved every one met with, until 
 we could not carry any more, when we went down to 
 our boat, decorated her with all the fanciful and gaudy 
 lanthorns imaginable, and returned then to our ship, 
 quite satisfied with our da/s adventures, as well as mis- 
 adventures. 
 
 While waiting here to rejoin my ship, I thought it a 
 good opportunity for seeing Canton and the river, and 
 for which I obtained leave of absence. 
 
 The vessel that I was to proceed in (having very 
 kindly had a passage granted me), unfortunately not 
 only got on shore, but carried away one of her spars, 
 which detained us some time, firing minute guns of 
 distress, and preparing a new spar. 
 
 The celebrated Bogue Forts and " Bocca Tigris" were 
 passed. If these forts were armed and manned by the 
 English, no vessels could possibly pass them. They are 
 built on huge masses of rock, of three tiers, and each tier 
 pierced for seventy-nine guns. 
 
104 
 
 CANTON. 
 
 i 
 
 A pilot was obtained here, a well-known one, who is 
 bribed for a few dollars ; but these are closely watched 
 by the " fast boats," who, when the pilot is discharged 
 with his dollars, is at once " squeezed." We had to dis- 
 guise our chap with an old Chesterfield bat and Taglioni 
 coat, and he was not known ; we also kept the fast boats 
 at a respectful distance with blank cartridge. 'Die pilot 
 conducted us safely to Whampoa, where we anchored, 
 and got him clear during the dusk of evening, his 
 fifty dollars safe in his pocket. 
 
 We were oflf at once for Canton in a hired junk, 
 making some short cuts, which obliged us to warp the 
 boat occasionally over the falls ; at each of these " Falls" 
 there is a small joss-house, in which sits a joss with a 
 small oil-lamp burning, and on passing he is " chin- 
 chin'd," and given a pice.* The difficulty of getting 
 over the fall is overcome by frequently dropping pice 
 before joss, when "joss" deigns to behold you, and you 
 pass on safely. Most absurd superstition ! We had now 
 arrived at such scenery as I have described at Chin- 
 keang-foo ; golden and silver islands. The forts appeared 
 well finished, no doubt the work of foreign engineers, 
 complete, and well situated. The "flower-boats" ex- 
 ceeded in gaudiness and size thp Lord Mayor's barge, 
 and were superbly fitted up ; inside was a grand saloon, 
 hung all over witli lamps, and flowers, and looking- 
 glasses ; filled with elegant sofas and curtains ; outside, a 
 balcony framcid i'l with rails as if of gold. 
 
 Next in beauty are the Mandarin boats, fleet in the 
 
 * Pice, value about one-oighth of a penny. 
 
 
LONG JIMMY. 
 
 ?I05 
 
 extreme. Then the ships, or junks in ordinary, of an 
 immense size, 800 or 900 tons, some more ; huge and 
 ill-shaped, with the eye in the bows, and manned by 
 Cochin Chinese. 
 
 I cannot, however, continue a description of the river, 
 which no doubt has been done before, and by abler j)en8 ; 
 the magnificence of the scenery can only be judged from 
 the rice-paper paintings, which can be purchased in a 
 folio at one and a half dollars each ; these give an idea 
 of the country, the city, the river, and the millions 
 living on it 
 
 A few purchases made in Hog Lane, Old and New 
 China Streets, and an attempt to see the inside of the 
 (nty, which was prevented by closing the gates, finished 
 ; 'lat day. The next was Sunday, of which there is none 
 In China ; prayers are read once a year, after which they 
 all get very drunk ! 
 
 After you purchase an article of curiosity in a China 
 shop, you always ask for a "cumshaw" (present), and 
 you often get one of more value really than the actual 
 article purchased. 
 
 The remainder of my stay off Whampoa was agree- 
 ably spent in visiting the town and pagoda of Wham- 
 poa, the forts in Blenheim Reach, Dane's Island (our 
 burial-ground), and other objects of interest ; not forget- 
 ting, however, " Long Jimmy" and his brother, two of 
 the best, most hospitable, and good-hearted Chinese on 
 the banks of the river. Their beefsteaks and onions, 
 potatoes and champagne, after a long walk or a day's 
 snipe-shooting, are well known to all who have anchored 
 oflF Whampoa. 
 
106 
 
 BROKE MY LEAVE. 
 
 We were but fourteen hours from Whampoa to Hong- 
 Kong, when on going on board mr ship to report myself, 
 it occurred to me that I had as\ed for three days' leave 
 and took twenty-one. However, my good-natured com- 
 mander said, " He was glad to see me back, and hoped 
 I enjoyed myself;" to which, of course, I replied in the 
 affirmative, and walked off. The delay was an accident. 
 
 One of the squadron was now ordered to India, and 
 on board her I had to proceed to join my ship, which I 
 had been so many months in chase of ; and as the log- 
 book says, we ** weighed and made sail," anchoring at 
 Macao next day. I had been here before, but had not 
 an opportunity of seeing it, and now found it a miser- 
 able, dirty hole, half Portuguese half Chinese ; not a 
 building worthy of a name, a few small shops, the land- 
 ing-place crowded with Tanka-boats, and the streets and 
 houses a scene of immorality, mud, and filth. Sailed, 
 and in passing the outer roads saluted a French com- 
 modore, setting all studding-sails in the smoke which 
 followed after us, in a light and favourable breeze. 
 After an eight days' passage, under sky-sails, and royal 
 studding-sails, anchored only for a few moments at 
 Singapore for the mails, &c., when we again started. 
 
 Penang, the garden of India, the most lovely island 
 imaginable, in f iie straits of Malacca, was reached, and 
 here I found my old ship to which I had been appointed 
 immediately y and now joined her after a seven months' 
 chase ! : . i ' . 
 
at 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 
 ■ .' 
 
 
 
 PENANO. 
 
 PENANG — WEICOJIE — A SHIP's BALL — BATH IN A SAIL — FRTOnT- 
 FTTL ACCIDENT — AWKWAED MISTAKE — THE DANCE — SYM- 
 WETIIICAL FIGURES — CONSTANT FEEDING — THE BAGGAGE — 
 DIFFICULT ACTING — RESIDENTS* BALL — AFFECTING POSITION — 
 DEPARTURE — A DEAD CALM — FAREWELL — LEAP YEAR — VERY 
 FAR GONE — AMHERST — KEDGEREE — THE CITY OF PALA-^ES — 
 EVENING AND MORNING — THE BLACK HOLE — GOOD FEELING. 
 
 I TRUST that a leaf or two devoted to a mere passing 
 remark, and acknowledgment of the hospitality and 
 attentions of the residents of this little-known island, of 
 the many happy and pleasant days spent here, of 
 the most agreeable fortnight ever passed by naval 
 officers, will not be considered either tedious or un- 
 interesting to the patient reader. I fear I have long 
 before this, and on ma,ny occasions tested his patience, 
 but I consider it would be both ungrateful and un- 
 friendly to pass unnoticed an island whose happy 
 residents had afforded us so generous a welcome, u,nd 
 so delightful a sojourn. 
 
 During the few days we were here, it was a constant 
 source of daily pic-nics and evening parties, each 
 
108 
 
 WELCOME. 
 
 person endeavouring to out-do the other in giving us the 
 most hearty welcome, and on some occasions our days had 
 to be divided, in order that our pic-nic or dinner-party 
 should be with one, on the express condition that our 
 evening was to be with another; and, indeed, our 
 most difficult task was to accept all without offending 
 any ; we must go to all, or we must not go to any. 
 
 The very evening I joined the old "Blaze-away," 
 every one on board was preparing the ship for a return 
 ball. Few on shore know how a vessel, with only her 
 own means, can be transformed into a " ball, supper, 
 and ante-rooms," with a little ingenuity, manoeuvring 
 and patience. On this occasion, the mids. gave the 
 ball ; the gun-room was the supper-room, Tnd the 
 quarter-deck the ball-room, the officers' ' iitted 
 up for the ladies' bonnets and shawls. The ball-room 
 was closed in with curtains, and flags of all nations 
 inside them, the rain-awning sloped overhead, and a 
 chandelier hung from the centre with one hundred 
 bayonets, each having a candle in it, ropes coiled 
 up, guns cleared away, ottomans and sofas sprinkled 
 around. Our band was always a good one, although 
 we had some losses from sickness in China ; the master of 
 the band had also been Ic >t from a most melancholy 
 accident, and excuse my digressing by an allusion to it 
 here, in the midst of a ball. 
 
 In a tropical climate, all hands after supper arc 
 permitted to bathe overboard; for this purpose the 
 lower studding-sail is spread in the sea from booms, 
 yards, &c, and makes a sort of basin or bath; in 
 this, all those who cannot swim plunge and splash 
 
FRIGHTFUL ACCIDENT. 
 
 109 
 
 i:. 
 
 In 
 
 about, and where sharks (a sailor's only enemy), are 
 suspected to be, the word is passed previous to 
 going overboard, " no person outside the sail/* This 
 is strictly attended to, and as the boatswain pipes 
 ** hands to bathe " you see chaps going overboard from 
 all pai*ts of the ship; jib-boom, yard-arms, hammock- 
 nettings, ou< of ports, and where there are 600 or 700 
 to bathe, this is an amusing sight. The mids. and 
 other officers are allowed the sail a quarter of an hour 
 before the men. On this unfortunate occasion, however, 
 the master of the band went outside the sail, although 
 ordered not to do so. He paid the penalty for his 
 rashness, a scream was heard — a violent struggle seen— 
 he disappeared ! and nothing but a small curl of blood 
 came to the surface ; he had been seized by a shark,— 
 gone for ever 1 His body was never recovered — de- 
 molished at once, no doubt, by voracious sharks, which 
 swarm the bay of Manilla. 
 
 Our friends arrived an hour before we ex- 
 pected them; they could not resist the temptation 
 of coming early, and this was attended by a little 
 mishap that it would be impossible to forget. The 
 mid. of the watch, a young gallant ladies'-man, and 
 ever ready to be attentive, fancied this hour could 
 be wiled away by showing them round the ship 
 while it was yet daylight He collected a party and 
 took them round, forgetting that we were all at that 
 moment dressing in the cock-pit for the evening. He 
 was polite enough to allow them to go down the 
 ladder first, and their astonishment and our surprise 
 at this moment cannot be described I We rushed as 
 
no 
 
 AWKWARD MISTAKE. 
 
 i m 
 
 we were into winj^g, into cabins, and behind posts ; 
 our visitors of course saw the mistake, and turned 
 their heads. Many know wliat a (lueer scene a cock-pit 
 presents, when brilliantly illuminated, and about twenty 
 or thirty mids. are scrubbing and dressing themselves ; 
 if a picture of it could but be drawn, I think it would 
 cause many a hearty smile. 'Twas soon over, and we 
 hoped we should not be recognised during the evening, 
 for midshipmen do boast of a little bashfulness some- 
 times ! 
 
 A quadrille commenced the evening as an intro- 
 duction, and it was not until three in the morning 
 'at a Spanish country dance concluded. I think 
 le manner in which an evening has been passed 
 may generally be concluded by the hour at which 
 it breaks up ; from six until three, nine hours, was 
 not a short evening. I observ^ed the ladies did not 
 waltz ! Now at the same time that I am about to 
 pay a compliment, I sincerely hope I shall not offend ; 
 I would not do so for the world. The ladies of Prince 
 of Wales island (as it is sometimes called) that is, 
 those who are not altogether English, half Indian, 
 half other countries, have figures perfect. Even in 
 the lower orders among the Indians, with only a 
 long calico wrapper wound round them, their figures 
 may be seen without an irregularity, all symmetry 
 and proportion ; from the perfectness therefore of the 
 figure, it is unnecessary to distort the bodies by arti- 
 ficial means, as, I am sorry to add, many of my 
 country-women do. As midshipmen are sometimes 
 apt accidentally, in their eagerness to save from a 
 
CONSTANT FEEDING. 
 
 Ill 
 
 a 
 
 fall or concussion, to pinch or squeeze their partner?, 
 I presume this to be the reason of v.heir not waltzing. 
 This is an assumption of my own, and if wrong, 
 I shall bo glad to find it out; some waltzed, and very 
 gracefully too. I trust I shall be excused this little 
 bit of criticism on ladies' dress (which I should know 
 nothing about), but I do so fearing a more illiberal 
 remark may be made on this subject 
 
 I sat next to an old and respected nutmeg-merchant 
 at supper. He noticed my demolishing (after the ladies 
 retired) a leg and wing of a goose, and many slices 
 of ham. *'My gracious," says he, "how you boys 
 do live.'" "Yes," I assured him, "we required feeding 
 very often, hourly on occasions." 
 
 We had a belle, as in most cases of a large party, 
 but she was entirely monopolized by one of our mids. 
 We really thought it was a case ! she wm an exceedingly 
 pretty, yet delicate girl, dressed all in pink, fair, 
 graceful, a little pensive, and she well deserved the 
 laurel she had won. • 
 
 The next evening we found our " pumps " again 
 doing their duty to the enlivening music of a piano 
 and fiddle — a " regular turn-out, " to which ten of 
 the favourites had been invited. Some person fortunately 
 found out at one o'clock that it was Sunday morning. 
 
 I must here remark that the residents are in ihree 
 societies, upper, lower, and middle circles; first, sicond, 
 and third class; the ones, are soldiers and tip-top 
 people, and sailors, if we were ambitious ; second circle, 
 merchants, medical men, farmers, &c. We had there- 
 fore occasionally a difficult part to act ; if we went 
 
112 
 
 RESIDENTS BALL. 
 
 to No. 1 party, we offended No. 2 ; if we went to No. 2 
 house, dignity was offended; and we therefore did 
 our very best to please all, and offend none. But I 
 have seen the feeling carried so far, that at a public 
 ball, my amiable partner No. I, would not dance 
 vis-k-vis to No. 2. 
 
 "THE RESIDENTS' BALL TO THE NAVY." 
 
 This was an elegant turn-out/given in the banquetting- 
 
 room, to the Admiral, and Lord S on their return 
 
 from the war in China, the bands playing, " See the 
 conquering heroes come," as they entered the ball-room. 
 This compliment I had before paid to me it will be 
 recollected from the Portsmouth jetty, near the sacred 
 spot where the ''treasure" was first landed. I was 
 going to say, in the midst of all our enjoyment, I 
 had nearly forgotten this occasion, but the old tune 
 brought it vividly to my recollection. I am not going to 
 occupy space and time, or weary patience, in endea- 
 vouring to describe the most agreeable of evenings, 
 but one little event which occurred to me (as usual), 
 cannot be passed over, as it is a midshipman's adventure. 
 
 We were dancing a spirited finale, a Spanish country- 
 dance. My partner was an exceedingly agreeable, chatty, 
 animated, good-humoured Dutch girl, consequently 
 rather stout (most good-tempered people are stout) ; 
 it was a ** tearing "dance, and as it was the last, 
 we were all endeavouring to out-do the musicians. 
 We had just completed "hands across," and I had 
 placed my arm round my partner"'s waist to commence 
 " down the middle," when lo ! and behold to my horror, 
 
AFFECTING POSITION. 
 
 113 
 
 and to the delight, I believe, and amusement of every 
 one else, my partner fainted in my arms ! I never 
 was in such a state of perplexity in my life ; I had 
 been under the fire of cannon, in storm and tempest, 
 near to shipwreck, near to drowning : I would have 
 preferred either, or all to this. My presence of mind 
 however did not forsake me now ; I had already one 
 arm supporting her waist, the other I passed carefully 
 around her, and carried her (no small weight) to 
 the ladies* room, where one glass and a half of cham- 
 pagne-punch quite revived her. We were " down the 
 middle " and ** up again" before many minutes, and this 
 ended one of the pleasantest evenings (and indeed morn- 
 ings, for it was now daylight), that we had ever passed. 
 We " turned in " that morning at six, and we were 
 " turned out" at half-past six — a healthy night's rest 1 
 
 On the very evening destined for our departure 
 from this delightful place (of course all leave was 
 stopped, as we were to be off at daylight), we re- 
 ceived a pressing message to say that Mrs. H — &c. 
 were waiting for us on the pier in their palanquins; 
 for ''all to come and have a farewell dance." Some 
 were persuaded to go ; others could not. Tiie thoughts 
 of going so soon made our spirits rather desponding. In 
 addition to our former acquaintances, we had the 
 pleasure of meeting several from two very amiable 
 boarding-schools, a little distance in the country ; indeed, 
 we found that we were only beginning to know all. 
 This, however, is quite a ** sailor's life," and one he 
 must reconcile himself to. You visit a place, you 
 make the most agreeable associates, and the most 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 DEPARTURE. 
 
 I I 
 
 !! 
 
 attached friends ; your hearts are just on the eve of 
 being revealed to each other, when you are ordered 
 to sea, and you part for ever. 
 
 At daylight the ship was unmoored and sail made, 
 but it was a dead calm, even the vessel herself was 
 unwilling to leave these friendly shores. The calm 
 continued all day, and in the cool of the evening a 
 boat filled with our friends came oflF to say adieu once 
 more. Unfortunately the accommodation ladder was un- 
 shipped, and they would not be "hoisted in," so it 
 occupied about one hour to bid a final, a last farewell 1 
 
 "The less'ning boat unwilling rows to land; 
 Adieu 1 she cried, and waved her lily hand." 
 
 Day-dawn we were off I and sighed farewell to this 
 speck on the ocean ; indeed, we could not help thinking 
 that our happiest days had fleeted by ; this day with us 
 was one of gloom and melancholy. Night closed over 
 Penang, and veiled from our view the island where we 
 had passed so many happy hours, perhaps never to see 
 again. 
 
 The day after leaving the " garden of India " was the 
 29th of February, ''leap year." Some began to reflect 
 and think perhaps it was fortunate they had left. I 
 must say if I may be permitted to judge, and midship- 
 men are pretty penetrating, in such matters they can see 
 as far as most people, that some of our messmates were 
 very far gone. I might here give many am\ising illus- 
 trations to corroborate these views of mine, but perhaps 
 they would be found too touching, and instead of 
 making friends, or amusing the careless gleaner, they 
 might make enemies. 
 
KEDGEREE. 
 
 115 
 
 We called at Amherst, the seaport of Moulmein, 
 where our teak timber comes from, on the Kangoon 
 river ; and anchored after a long and tedious voyage at 
 Kedgeree, situated on the banks of the rapid and muddy 
 Hooghly. 
 
 A government steamer was immediately sent for the 
 Admiral and his retinue, and I was fortunate enough to 
 be able to get away by her, and visit Calcutta, " the 
 city of palaces." It was the Governor-General's par- 
 ticular and pressing request that half the officers should 
 come to town and occupy a wing of his palace, for half 
 the period the ship was to remain in port ; after that 
 time, the remaining half were to relieve those. It wao a 
 " city of palaces," in the widest sense of the term ; 
 a second cousin of mine was accidentally turned up, and 
 he made me take up my quarters with him. The city 
 surpassed all I had ever read or heard of it ; you were 
 scarcely allowed to put your feet to the ground, you 
 were gently handed from your boat to a palanquin fitted 
 up in the most luxurious and gaudy style, carried 
 by four bearers, your *' servant " by your side fanning 
 you, and doing all shopping and other laborious work for 
 you. The evening passed on the esplanade, where all 
 meet in the cool of twilight, on the banks of the 
 Ganges, to inhale the refreshing sea-breeze. That 
 night I luxuriated in a feather-bed and mosquito 
 curtains. Early in the morning my servant came with 
 a cup of coffee (your domestic always follows you 
 wherever you go, stands at the back of your chair 
 at dinner &c., and never leaves you ; sleeps on the door- 
 mat at night like a faithful dog.) " Coffee, Sahib," says 
 
 1 
 
116 
 
 CITY OP PALACES. 
 
 he, followed by a black fellow to shave, another to 
 cut the hair and pare the nails, and another to shampoo 
 me. Now I had not a morsel of beard on my cliin, and 
 never had shaved, but I could not resist alic »ving the 
 fellow the satisfaction of lathering and scraping, at 
 which he appeared delighted, as the razor met witli 
 no resistance. Then a bath, then a cup of tea, 
 and until the sun began to peep above the houses, 
 amused ourselves firing from the house-top at jackdaws, 
 vultures, and ravens (the scavengers of Calcutta, for 
 which you are fined fifteen dollars if seen destroying 
 them), and delighted at seeing them fall into a neigh- 
 bour's verandah, or among his grapes, with rather a 
 heavy crash. 
 
 I was taken to a number of interesting places, the 
 Mint, Museum, Fort William, and the Bazaars. During 
 the drive, my friend suddenly pulled up at the corner of 
 Tank Square, and looking round at me, asked "if 
 I knew where I wasl" "This," says he, "is the exact 
 spot where once stood the famous, or rather infamous 
 Black Hole of Calcutta." I shuddered, and well recol- 
 lected having read that horrible story, where so many 
 unfortunates were smothered. It is in the middle 
 of the road, but not a vestige remains by which it may 
 be recognised 1 
 
 Here, as indeed at all other places we had touched at, 
 every one appeared determined to show us that the suc- 
 cessful manner in which the war in China had been 
 concluded was not forgotten, and the public acknow- 
 ledgments, as well as private attentions, fully convinced 
 us of these facts. The Governor-General gave us 
 
 
 ■Mm 
 
THE BLACK HOLE. 
 
 117 
 
 a superb ball ; the residents gave another at Barracpore ; 
 the soldiers also came forward, and the private entertain- 
 ments would rob me of all my *< leaves" in enumerating 
 them. The good feeling towards us all was universal, 
 and will never be forgotten. 
 
 After a stay of three weeks we left Calcutta and 
 Kedgeree, and found ourselves once more rolling in the 
 heavy swell of the Indian Ocean. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 SATURDAY NIGHT AT SEA. 
 
 HATUUDAY NIOHT AT SEA — SWEETnEAUXS AND AVIVE9 — OUT LIGHTS 
 — MADRAS EOADS — COMMODORE COCKLE — CATAMARANS — A 
 CARD — THE Cmn — a cousin — cross the surf — ESCAPE — 
 THE RALL — SINOINO FISH — COCKROACHES — THE RACE — 
 TRINCOMALEE — 80DER ISLAND — DUNGAREE GREEN — " FALL 
 ON MY legs" — THE CHALLENGE — DOGS SHOT — THUNDER AND 
 LIGHTNING — "THE PLAGUE DEPARTS." 
 
 " 'Twas Saturday night, the twinkling stars 
 
 Shone on the rippling sea ; 
 No duty called tlic jovial tars, 
 
 The helm was lashed a-lee. 
 The ample can adorned the board 
 
 Prepared to sec it out, 
 Each gave the girl that he adored, 
 
 And pushed the grog about." 
 
 This is a night seldom or ever forgotten at sea ; a bowl 
 of punch is brewed. I have the following recipe from 
 an old messmate, well able to give an opinion on punch ; 
 ingredients as follows : — two port, one brandy, half pint 
 cherry-brandy, four wine-glasses lime-juice or lemons, 
 nutmegs, sugar, cloves to taste, all water spoils, screech- 
 ing hot in small tumblers. I can assure my readers that 
 after a few " small tumblers" of this insinuating and 
 exciting bev 'vage, all secrets are revealed. The glasses 
 
SWKKTIIKAIITS AND WIVES. 
 
 110 
 
 ni'o filled by ortler of the president, nnd tJie toast, 
 " sweethearts and wives," drank with loud and enthu- 
 siastic applause. This is an evening at sea, handed 
 down from time immemorial ; Jack says, " Before Adam 
 "was an oakum boy in Chatham Dockyard." When all 
 meet to drink to the health of those nearest and dearest 
 to them, they come together with one universal feeling 
 to bring before them, in spirit, those with whom their 
 lives appear to be linked together, and with whom their 
 happiest days have been spent. The evening is com- 
 menced by the "toast;"" a song then from the first, 
 after which the initials only of his object and lier health 
 is drunk by all ; the next in turn, and so on. Woe to 
 the one who cannot sing, the sooner he learns the better ; 
 he has to pay for the ** punch," and it is astonishing 
 how soon he learns. One may, if he pleases, give a sen- 
 timent, or an anecdote, ' lut it must relate to the " one," 
 whose health every one in duty bound has to drink. 
 This soon passes away an evening, until 9.30, when the 
 master-at-arms arrives. " Three bells, gentlemen, out 
 lights." " Oh, if you please, master-at-arms," says the 
 president, " ask for half-an-hour's lights." The master- 
 at-arms does as he is ordered. *' Half-an-hour's lights 
 granted. Sir." Then songs ad libitum, as long as the 
 punch lasts ; perhaps " another brew." "We have found 
 out a " birthday" by some extraordinary means. As I 
 have before said, a few tumblers of " this," the heart 
 melts, all is told in confidence, in strictest confidence I 
 and, " honour among thieves," it never goes beyond that 
 evening. We are now getting noisy ; choruses by all 
 hands have commenced ; a rap at the door, " Please, 
 
i 
 
 120 
 
 COMMODORE COCKLE. 
 
 gentlemen, the first lieutenant's compliments, if there is 
 so ranch noise the lights must be put out." " Oh, all right, 
 master-at-arms, all right I" Singing commences again ; 
 another message ; no use. Four bells 1 rap at the door, 
 " Four bells, gentlemen." " Oh, let us finish this song, 
 master-at-arms ; shut the door.'* The song finishes ; 
 "Past four bells, gentlemen." "All right, all right, 
 what sort of a night is it ?" Another glass; " She was a 
 lovely girl, she looked to me you know like wux." 
 *' Nearly five bells, sirs." " Fair hair, ringlets, in the 
 second circle, her mother — ^" " Come, gentlemen, out 
 lights, I iiiust report it to the officer of the watch. Sir." 
 Five bells strikes, we all decamp. "Lights out some 
 time, master-aty-anns.** 
 
 Ditto, repeated every Saturday night, blow high, 
 or blow low ! 
 
 Arrive and anchor in Madras Roads, after a very 
 tedious, sultry, and disagreeable passage. 
 
 We are visited by Commodore Cockle, the comman- 
 der-in-chief of the catamarans in the roadstead. The 
 catamarans are plain double or single logs of wood, on 
 which the natives paddle through the surf, being only 
 sufficient to kerp them afloat. They are sometimes 
 washed off them, and have frequently to pass right 
 through the wave; and it is wonderful how dry and 
 clean they will bring off" a letter or a parcel to you. 
 They have a piece of water-tight oilskin, in which it is 
 carefully wrapped, and tied round the head. 
 
 The Commodore is a "funny old fish;" he holds a 
 parchment commission from some old admiral (I think), 
 for saving a life, or boat's crew, but I am not certain 
 
THE SUBP. 
 
 which. Before crossing the surf, he has nothing on but 
 a paper hat and lanj['ooty, a facsimile of our old fiiend 
 the Postmaster- General at Anger. When outside the 
 surf he couimences dressing, puts on a secretary's un- 
 dress uniform coat, with e]>aulettes, cocked hat, &c. &c., 
 NO trowsers, and he comes up the side as dry (except his 
 legs, which must in a catamaran dangle overboard) as if 
 he was in an admiral's barge, and makes his respectful 
 salaam! He supplies all ships with oysters and 
 '* cockles "-—hence his name. 
 A card arrives — 
 
 *• The Society of Madras request the honour of the mid.s' mess 
 to a ball at the Banqueting lloom, on Friday next." 
 
 Also — 
 
 •' The soldiers request our company at dinner, and to consider 
 ourselvest honorary members of their mess and club." 
 
 Here, again, it was evident we were to be regaled by 
 a similar attention which has followed us round India. 
 
 I am lucky enough here to find another cousin ; they 
 are remarkably convenient relatives, when the lightness 
 of your purse will not permit of your going to an hotel. 
 
 To-day found me crossing the surf, the " Great 
 Madras Surf;" the danger-flag had only just been 
 hauled down. This is displayed on shore when the 
 surf is considered dangerous for boats to cross. None 
 but Masoulah boats can cross ; these are built of light 
 material (bark), sewn together with strips of the same, 
 pulled by ten or twelve natives, and an accident seldom 
 occurs. The commander of a vessel of war attempted 
 
122 
 
 ESCAPE. 
 
 the surf, in his gig, some years since, was capsized, and 
 all perished I 
 
 At first the prospect when you near the rollers is not 
 pleasant ; the stem, or bow of the boat, is kept exactly 
 on the crest of the wave ; you are over the first (there 
 are generally three great rollers), you are now in a 
 valley beneath two rollers ; there is nothing to be seen 
 but a dark green curtain of sea on either side, under 
 the crest of" the waves far above you j you rise on the 
 second wave, there is now the danger of the boat coming 
 broadside on, if she does, nothing will save you ; you will 
 be hurled over like a cork. The two after oai-s are 
 quickly laid in, and the pullers fall on their knees by 
 you to extort money I am sure. They slap their fore- 
 heads and offer up a prayer (I suppose), the others pull 
 lustily and make a fearful noise, the boat is pointed to 
 the third roller, rises on it majestically, and you are 
 thrown, boat and all, high and dry on the sands; all 
 jump out and haul her away from the effect of the next 
 roller. The sea is alive with sharks between the rollers; 
 you can see their dorsal fin ploughing the wave, and 
 looking out eagerly for you if you should capsize. 
 
 Really the first time I was somewhat timid ; I could 
 not understand their praying beside me : but after I had 
 crossed it fourteen times, it waa to me similar to landing 
 on the breakwater at Plymouth. 
 
 On one occasion of crossing the surf, the boat turned 
 completely round between the rollers, making her stern 
 hor bows, for which they are adapted. And on another 
 going oiF, the crew were all drunk, and nothing but the 
 still- watching hand of Providence could have rescued 
 
THE BALL. 
 
 123 
 
 f 
 
 US. It is no use swiramin|; on these occasions, the 
 moment you are out of tlie boat you are into a i;hark's 
 jaws, always hungry and ready for you. 
 
 This was our evening for the ball ; there was no room 
 in my cousin's carriage, but I was driven to the Ban- 
 queting Room in the handsomest " turn-out" and pair 
 of greys in Madras I Here I met relatives of two very, 
 \'ery old and esteemed messmates of mine (about two 
 years since), and the evening was numbered among our 
 best. I chose to remain long after all my friends had 
 left, and then I found myself without a conveyance, and 
 it was too far to walk. I was soon ** picked up" by a 
 worthy friend, " who assisting a known friend in view, to 
 the utmost in his power," took me to his home, gave me 
 a bed and breakfast, and drove me to " Nan cum Bau- 
 cum," my temporary abode, next day. 
 
 It was the Nabob's birthday ! he was saluted with 
 a royal salute ; and glories in having 100 wives ! 
 
 For the first time in my life I heard a *' singing fish ; " 
 they adhere to the outside of the ship, and the noise 
 exactly resembles a rush of water through a small 
 aperture. I did not see it, therefore cannot describe it ; 
 nor could I find O' any one who had seen one. 
 
 We mailed from, or rather were blown out of the roads, 
 by a violent squall with rain, tlmndor and lightning; all 
 sail had to be shortened, tiie ports barrt ! in, and the 
 ship allowed to blow before the squall. 
 
 All vessels in India suffer from those detestable vermin, 
 cockroaches; it is impossible to keep Hiem away; they 
 3iot only come on board in your provisions, but "fly" off 
 to the ship. The second class boys have eacb to produce 
 twelve every morning, when they a nustered" to 
 
llllll 
 
 124 
 
 EXCITINO RACE. 
 
 see they are cltan. They get a " fanam " for each one 
 short of the dozen; and they may be seen at night 
 vigorously poking out the comers and crevices to 
 obtain their number. A rat will count as twelve, and a 
 mouse as six, for these industrious small boys. 
 
 Frequently have I been ** attacked" when sleeping 
 on deck in the cool air by these desperadoes, regularly 
 attacked, aye, and beaten below too, and had to return 
 when I thought all was quiet to rescue my straw mat 
 and pillow on which I had been trying to sleep. At 
 night, when you are unconscious, they trim your nails ; 
 they are very fond of nails, parchment, book-covers, &c., 
 and books are completely disfigured by them. We have 
 but one punishment that I know of. When unoccu- 
 pied, or a tedious hour happens before dinner, two fine 
 cockroaches are obtained ; those about one inch and 
 three quarters long, having white necklaces, and barbed 
 feet, are preferred ; you back yours against your oppo- 
 nents, to run the length of the mess table in the shortest 
 space of time. Two small slices of wax candle with 
 wicks are obtained, they are securely fixed by melted 
 drops of the same material on the backs of the racers. 
 You select your lunpire, "prepare to start," you light 
 your tapers, the word "ofi^" is given, away go your 
 animals, slowly at first (the battens prevent them 
 running ofi" the sides of the table), they now begin 
 to feel "warm" — move quicker — now they are at the 
 top of their speed — burning — they kick, plunge, as the 
 wax begins to dissolve around them — roasted. After a 
 few convulsive struggles, death follows, and they turn up ; 
 this is the last evolution. The one which has gained 
 the greatest distance is declared the winner. Midship- 
 
 '~!.U'-XI!!I3i'IIC 
 
SOBER ISLAND. 
 
 125 
 
 man's folly ; *' steward, a bottle of wine, put it down to 
 me;" "boy, here are two cockroaches for to-morrow 
 morning.'^ I must add, however, for credit sake, that it 
 is only when driven to desperation by ennui that 
 these cruel amusements are had recourse to. 
 
 Trincomalee Harbour, Ceylon, is a snug and complete 
 port for a vessel's refit, having a dock-yard, with all 
 conveniences, anchor wharf, gun wharf, &c. There is 
 also an island called "Sober Island," from the fact 
 that men can be allowed any amount of liberty without 
 the possibility of getting drunk, and it is also a good 
 bathing-place, being free from sharka 
 
 The very first evening our men had liberty there 
 many came ofi* drunk. Four were flogged ; ** they kicked 
 bottles of rum out of the bushes, they said." 
 
 By the vivid flashes of lightning which almost every 
 evening prevailed, I took a tour round *' Dungaree 
 Green," the aristocratic nucleus of the residents of 
 Trincomalee. Nothing was to be seen but cocoa-nut 
 trees, black fellows, long grass, and lightning I But as the 
 evening grew late I " fell on my legs," and was taken 
 where a most agreeable evening was passed, but had 
 nearly lost us the number of our mess, for early in the 
 morning we were challenged by the sentry while scaling 
 the garrison walls to obtain a bathe in the sea. On the 
 two or three occasions of my again visiting the house 
 (for there were attractions there), it always so happened 
 that no sooner had I sat down to a game of chess, with 
 one not much unlike the object of ray early impressions, 
 on the treasure wharf, " fair hair and ringlets," than 
 instantly down came rain, thunder, and lightning, utterly 
 
!!i I 
 
 lliljf 
 
 126 
 
 THE PLAGUE DEPARTS. 
 
 " .night to go upon tkZZ-.Xt'^ "" "" ''"'^' 
 f «»•- I had therefore tbZtrell "'" "' *" ''""^ 
 « long eve^ng ^th one whTSt ''T °' "^'"^ 
 
 --y stm young and susoe;; tl,"""™« ■» •-<• 
 Trmcomalee beinc* ^^^ ^ "eart. 
 
 of»idahipn,enXTi^:tr''*'-^*--W 
 ^d we latterly (for\re LT T "°°" '^'''^ ^^""^ : 
 
 fevourite dogs, ^U^Z, ',"^*5'"'»''- So-^^ lost their 
 
 ^^ their p^e ^ l^de^ed ^^r"'^'"'' °"'^" 
 »d letters to their youu!. IT • ^ """"y""'"' visits 
 altogether we we«S '' '"'""='^''* ^^I^^; and 
 
 'i-adoftheeon.n.unit'flThrf'': ')" """^^ »<• 
 «tio„aI enjoyment, if wasTmt, M °'"" '"'""6 no 
 '"« day fix.™ the unhea j;" reH th '" ^ ""' '"'™^ 
 
 -o-ande.ngs.e.eo„S::XVo:X 
 
 ■-'^:::?h~irhr--'-^«^«"e 
 
 g-eat was the joy Tr" ""'""»«»'«" departed, so 
 
 Piousthanthe:4fiutt"Lf •";'"'''' ""-^ "»- 
 -h'-'e he congratulateTfhem "" ? ™""™'' ''™ ' 
 Pomted harangue, having 7 !•* '"""^ 'P'"'"!, but 
 hasgoneoutofEOTr.V"'-'''^*^^- "The pl'ag,,, 
 SW- This we were told as a fact I 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 irOMEW^VlU) BOUND — FEELINGS — LEO OF MUTTON — VAIN DOrE — 
 LEE SHORE — SAFETY — CAPE OF GOOD HOPE — NEWS — 
 VISITORS — midshipman's LARKS — ROLLING DOWN TO ST. 
 HELENA — A MELANCHOLY TALE — LADDER HILL — A 8ACRI- 
 FICEi — ASCENSION — "FIVE DELLS, SIR" — ENGLISH CHANNEL — 
 SPITHEAD — THE MEETING — THOSE EVENING DELLS — SUDDEN 
 DEPARTURE — NEARLY DROWNED — PAID OFF — SAi'ELY MOORED 
 — CONCLUSION. 
 
 " 'Tis sweet to know 
 There is an eye will mark our coming." 
 
 Again we had that pleasing and never-to-be-forgotten 
 prospect before us, we were rolling our hammock- 
 nettings in the ever-undulating swell of the Indian 
 Ocean. We are all getting mad with joy at the bare 
 idea of again so soon seeing Old England ; it puts a 
 new life into us, the very thoughts of it, and some 
 of us in our elated moments do strange things. Our 
 dinners are what may be termed " banyan," and very 
 often "low diet," but the prospects of the bum-boats 
 with ** legs of mutton and trimmings" repay us for this. 
 On one occasion there was a leg of mutton for dinner, a 
 rare occasion, and one of our messmates was late at 
 
128 
 
 VAIN HOPE. 
 
 table. Oa his arrival, nothing but the bone was left ; 
 he requested the bone, but the person carving the joint 
 refused, as it was already ** well poli:!:'3d ; " however, the 
 hungry boy insisted on having it, and ^'declared he 
 would eat it." This led to an amusing feud, when 
 the carver of the joint made a somewhat rash and 
 extravagant bet that *' he would not eat it," which bet 
 was accepted. The hungry boy took the huge bone 
 in his hand, flourished it in delight, repaired to the 
 sick-bay, where he obtained a pestle and mortar, broke 
 the bone in small pieces, pounded it up into a pulp, and 
 actually demolished every morsel, winning his wager. 
 It had no bad effect I but I forget if he ever obtained 
 his well-earned bet. 
 
 We had now been some time at sea, it seemed to 
 us longer than usual, I suppose as we were anxious, 
 anxious for home, and anxious for our arrival at the 
 Cape as a half-way house. We were running with all 
 sail, studding-sails alow and alofl, every stitch the vessel 
 could cram on her, within a few miles of the land, and 
 had hoped to be at anchor that self-same evening. 
 " Nothing could prevent it," we t^ "^ught Alas ! how 
 vain is hope, suddenly down came a " north-wester " 
 in all its fury, and all sail was reduced to a storm main 
 stay-sail. The sea rose in mountains, as it always 
 does on the L'Agulha's Bank, and the ship rolled and 
 strained in an awful manner ; we were in dangerous 
 proximity to the land, runners were got over the mast- 
 heads for getting top-masts and lower-yards on deck, 
 and all preparations made for the worst events. We were 
 on a lee-shore. The weather got thick and hazy, and 
 
SAFETY. 
 
 12!) 
 
 that night was passed in most intense anxiety, our only 
 consolation and hope in our distress was, that whilo we 
 were " rocking to and fro, and staggering like dnmken 
 men at our wits' ends," ** He who walks on the waters, 
 and rides upon the storm," was guiding our helpless bark. 
 It moderated towards noon, the sky broke and the sea 
 abated ; and the next day we anchored in safety. 
 
 This, and many amusing incidents connected with 
 this portion of the passage, which, however unwilling, I 
 may be to pass without a remark, I cannot risk the 
 chance of being considered personal. Indeed, scarcely a 
 day or evening pasced without what I would term 
 a " midshipman's event ;" and although they remain 
 fresh in my memory, and in my original ** leaves," 1 
 cannot now commit them to paper. Those alone of 
 the big gun, the court martial, rose cottage, the 
 economical dinner, would fill a volume of themselves if 
 properly and carefully brought forth ; and I must regret 
 not feeling at^iberty or safe in producing them. 
 
 The only news we heard on our arrival was, that the 
 Captain of the Slasher had died — Dan O'Connell was a 
 
 prisoner — and that. Mrs K sends off her card to say, 
 
 "she does up linen in the English style on most 
 moderate terms." On going on shore, I was rejoiced to 
 find "all alivo," though not all happy. Those at the 
 " Crown Inn " (country people of mine) progressing. 
 The "small tea-party house" near the turnpike well, 
 but a mishap in the family. Those at "the wax-candle 
 shop," thriving ; and poor Margaret the chamber-maid 
 at the hotel in " Chokey." 
 
 We had now the pleasure of showing a few of onr 
 
130 
 
 VISITORS. 
 
 !l 
 
 r 
 
 friends (on former occasions) round the ship on their 
 arrival from Winebcrg, chatting and recalling former 
 events in our younger days. 
 
 It is a great amusement to a wicked midshipman 
 to show round a party of people who know nothing of 
 a vessel, in fact, who perhaps never were before on board 
 a shi]> of war. With them it is really no use calling 
 tliG various jind many articles by their nautical terms, they 
 would not understand you ; and it is your duty to 
 simplify them as much as possible. For instance, what 
 would it avail, if they asked you "how you let the 
 anchor go," or " how you fastened it?" If you talked to 
 them of the " shank painter " and cat head stopper, 
 they would imagine you to be talking of a lean long- 
 legged artist, or giving chase to the cat, and calling out 
 ** stop her." Or, how much would they be enlightened 
 by your telling them how the ship was tacked ; if you 
 mentioned stays, braces, and buntlines, they would 
 immediately imagine themselves in a milliner's shop. 
 Therefore it is always better to simplify these terms as 
 much as possible ; and in doing so, the happy mid. takes 
 to himself the credit of making the visitor believe all, and 
 swallow all he is cramming them with. Yet many a 
 laugh and joke have I had while going the rounds, 
 and many an amusing scene enjoyed. Strange- stories 
 we have told of the wings, the cable tiers, the amputa- 
 tion table; all credited by the kind, smiling, and 
 amiable disposition of the visitor. 
 
 We are again " rolling down to St. Helena ;" and 
 while so doing I must repeat a painfully melancholy, yet 
 romantic story, told me after I had recollected that 
 
A MELANCHOLY TALF. 
 
 131 
 
 1 had been staring fixedly and intently on one of 
 the most exquisite figures in Soutli Africa. "Como, 
 my dear fellow, what's the matter with yon, why do you 
 look 80 thoughtful?" says an old and worthy messmate of 
 mine, who happened to pass by, placing his hand on 
 my shoulder just after I had lost sight of her. "Oh!" 
 said I, " that lovely figure I Did you nf)t notice her, as 
 she passed quietly along a minute or two since, dressed 
 in deep mourning, her eyes cast down to the ground, 
 her pace slow and trembling, as if suffering from mental 
 anguish; her form true and faultless, which would 
 attract a far less admirer than myself ; the beauty of a 
 face " — I stopped myself, and said, "Do you know her!" 
 "Oh ! perfectly well," says my "old ship;" "if you will 
 stroll with me along the road I'll tell you all about her." 
 I eagerly seized the chance, and placing my arm within his, 
 exclaimed, "Aliens done men ami." He commenced : — 
 " The steam vessel Heartless, which was at that time 
 attached to the squadron under a Rear- Admiral's orders, 
 and noted for being such a successful slave-catcher 
 (having one or two constantly in tow), was lying at 
 anchor in the bay, prepared for a long voyage to the 
 sickly Zambezi river. One of her unfortunate officers, 
 whose name I cannot at present recollect, was a constant 
 guest at the gallant Admiral's house, and could not resist 
 admiring a frequent visitor to the Commander-in- 
 Chief's daughters, who with her were alike conspicuous 
 for their beauty, their elegance, as well as for their 
 accomplishments. In short, he found himself in that 
 vortex — Love, to which we are all more or less weak. 
 He solicited her hand (for her heart had long been his), 
 
 k2 
 
132 
 
 A SAD TALE. 
 
 which she after short deliberation gave. They were en- 
 ga<^e(l, for they were strongly attached, thinking every 
 moment nought in which they did not enjoy each other's 
 society, and breatlie each other's sighs. A house was pro- 
 cured and furnished, which was to contain the happy cou- 
 ple ; dresses for the occasion were ordered and fitted ; the 
 bride cake, which was to come from a distance of twenty- 
 five miles, was on the road ; and every thing prepared for 
 the apparently happy wedding, when the steamer was 
 ordered to intercept a slaver that had been seen in that 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 "In the mean while his fair object leaves all, and 
 retires to her new house to prepare it for him, on whom 
 all her thoughts were bent, and the forthcoming eventful 
 time. 
 
 " Three weeks elapse, and the steamer returns; and she, 
 who had buoyed her hopes to the very highest pitch, 
 of being that very week wedded to one whom she adored, 
 now beheld him fallen a victim to the fever, which 
 had made rapid and dreadful havoc on his constitution, 
 and in fact scarcely allowed him to be recognised. But 
 the features were too deeply engraven on her memory to 
 forget them ; she swooned, or fainted. He was hoisted 
 out of the vessel in his cot, and sent to the hospital, 
 where she again attended with her usual affection to his 
 wants. 
 
 "But the *king of terrors' had marked him for his 
 prey; and in a few hours he, who wn, to have been 
 married on that very day, was no more. 
 
 " Many, many, were the tears (I was told) she shed 
 over his lifeless remains (which she daily visited), after 
 
 i 
 
ST. IIKLENA. 
 
 \ii.i 
 
 they were consigned to their resting-place. He,, in 
 the goodness of his heart, and in his last words, left 
 her all he possessed. 
 
 **Thi8 was some months before my arrival tnore; 
 and now she was about to bestow her hand on an 
 old messmate of mine, whom she had met in the room in 
 which her late intended breathed his last." 
 
 After he had concluded his painful narrative, I could 
 hardly prevent a tear falling, but which I endeavoured 
 to hide. The only sight I had obtained of her, for an 
 instant, had already made me sympathize with her 
 sad bereavement. 
 
 At St. Helena our stay was very limited. And for 
 the short time allotted to us for a ramble, I took another 
 direction to that on a former occasion, not forgetting the 
 poor impression that "the tomb," and all connected 
 with it, made on me. I visited the Forts and Ladder Hill 
 of 680 steps, which, after once ascending and descending, 
 you are ready to return fagged on board. I was more 
 fortunate in landing than on a former visit. 
 
 We sailed on a Friday, that unfortunate ^^^^ . Sailors 
 are very superstitious in this respect ; the majority of 
 them will never sail on a Friday — will do nothing on 
 a Friday. To counteract this, something must now 
 be done. We must make a sacrifice. We had brought 
 a lady from the East Indies, who was left at one of 
 the ports passed by. She had brought a cat with her ; 
 but we concluded, after duly considerirg the matter, 
 there was not that love for the creature usually evinced 
 between a mistress and her pet, as it was forgotten 
 
"i 
 
 I M 
 
 ■Ml i| 
 
 ?! > 
 
 I !:• 
 
 i 
 
 134 
 
 ASCENSION. 
 
 on board. This tabby caused us (mids.) many a sleepless 
 niglit, by bewailing the loss of its kind mistress. Now 
 was our time for revenge. The tabby was sought for 
 awd found ; placed struggling into a be , after niuc^» 
 scratching and mowrowing ; and in tlus manner silently, 
 and in the dead of night, committed to the waters. We 
 never could find who committed thr last act. 
 
 At Ascension we have the usual unfortunate carpi 
 of sick and invalids- — they are ver^ nimieroua. The 
 coast is particularly unheaitiiy this season, and our 
 decki are crammed with unhappy fellows, in the last stages 
 of isi';kness and fever, hopiT.[»: thai then' native climate 
 will again restore them. One dies shortly after wc 
 sail, and his remains are consigned ^ti a watery grave. 
 
 At five bells (half-past six) every moniing, the 
 young gentlemen's hammocks are pipetl up ; tlie steerage 
 or cock])it liammocks, as they arc ctUled, Each mid. 
 has a " hammct'k man," Avhom he pays f'Vj. shillings 
 a month for scrubbing and keeping his hammock, &c., 
 in order. The one who is last up, or wl\o delays the 
 "towing of the hammocks, is punished. Some mid- 
 sliipnien can sle- p more, ana are happier in their 
 consciences than othc jb ; these recptire more " rousing " 
 and more persuading. Five bells strikes ! ** up all steer- 
 age hanunocks,"" cries the boatswain anil liis mates. 
 Down they oil rush — give you a shake, "five bells, oir;" 
 you pr«tend not to hear it. **Come, sir, five bells;" 
 you go on the other tack, and haul the blanket over 
 yonr head. Another violent shasc— "five bells, sir, the 
 hummocks are piped up this some time;" you turn 
 round and growl, " wliat :.urt of a morning is it, Jinks V 
 
 ,\ 
 
 "'-'***oK»wa\mi«\»iiiM««n«iwi\>iin««ii»»»i«»«aw,v«, 
 
 ^iL_ 
 
FIVE BELLS. 
 
 135 
 
 t sleepless 
 8s. Now 
 ought for 
 
 r silentl}'-, 
 
 its. ^\\: 
 
 to car^ 
 IB. 'Fhe 
 and OUT 
 isf staiires 
 
 climatu 
 ifter wii 
 ^uve. 
 
 :, the 
 steerage 
 ch mid. 
 
 ±, Ac, 
 aye the 
 le niid- 
 a tlieir 
 using " 
 1 stecr- 
 inates. 
 s, ^ir;" 
 bells ;" 
 t over 
 iir, the 
 I turn 
 uks {" 
 
 " Oh I fine morning, sir" (pouring rain perhaps). '* Come, 
 sir, show a leg," "Do you see my traps there ready 
 tor washing, Jinks ?" "Yes, sir, all ready" (never looking 
 at all.) " Come, sir, out or down." " How is it my bed 
 is all on one side, Jinks? you see I'm all over to port." 
 "I'm sure I don't know, sir, I slung it lair enough 
 on Saturday night,," Master at arms and corporals 
 arrive. "Come, sir, come. Hammocks are pi[)ed up 
 this half hour. They're Avaiting to stow yours. I mu.st 
 report it to the commander." " Oh ! all right, do 
 you see my liaramock man there?" "Yes, sir, he says 
 here I am this half hour and it's no use." Perhaps 
 you are now over some one's chest who wants to 
 wash, he comes and rattles at your hammock, knocking 
 your liead against the beams, and throwing all 
 your clothes out on the deck. Still you are loathe to 
 leave your " two yards of canvas ;" and after a stretch, 
 and a yawn, and an " oh dear ! " out you come. This 
 is an every morning oceuiTcnce with some, who, perhaps, 
 have had the middle watch, or who have had their 
 riest disturbed by unfair means. 
 
 A S.W. gale brought us into the English Channel, 
 n^wre we sighted the land of "strawberries and cream ;" 
 but a S.E. gale tiien met us, and for some days kept 
 vw in the Channel under stonu stay sails in a heavy 
 wssL Wo were not manv miles now from all those 
 ii«Mr aiid dear to us, but a hard-hearted gale made 
 every m w e nt appear to us an age. At last the gale 
 alMktes, — taluis (Vjm passion on us, — and allows us to make 
 sail ; tM»d we plough our way proudly and majestically 
 into Spi<lh«r.ad, with our hearts alive with joy, gratitude, 
 
 
M 
 
 u m 
 
 ISG 
 
 THE MEEriNo. 
 
 and thankfulness fhnf - i. , 
 
 fi»m storm anTtemlt 51 ^'^ '"'^" ^-'"J 
 
 We the memen.The 2? "" '"'""'•• ' »'"»'-'• 
 »n shore in the qui'k^t w* . ''""""'• ^ ^^ed 
 «<Ie. Anditwr„otl ' "'•-"■y-boat along. 
 
 /•8o.o„havea.^v.ed:Ua':7w:ra""r""'^ 
 s-nce you last said to me • adi Jf T ""PP^ 
 
 remember those wo^^ChU: J^.-T'' ^^ ^- 
 
 .^o'^youU\:fr,X'^'r„Wdeneetha*: 
 » particuh^ have much to Cdlfff"""'"*- ^ 
 been more than once sJd f "^ '^■'- ^ """^ 
 
 -d swoH. shipwrecrarttetnirTd^"- "^ 
 fyng 'for ever,' and i, wouldt '' . ''° ''"<=''"«'=' 
 had not been guided by Hml' 7' ''''" '*>' '"^ ^ 
 
 but we are notVte Jen"„Xl Tr'''''"^ "=' 
 "y charming Emile are l„!f '"''""'«'«'g« it. You, 
 
 beautiful, i.Ui:: :;:„' t:?. :r '--^ -<• -«' 
 
 't IS the prospect of seeing vou t.l„, ' ."^ "*""'' '"'y- 
 youugi it recalls to me mv "" '' ""• "PP""' 
 
 first moment when I saw ^2 ZT '^''' ""-1 'be 
 flatters me, my Charles." "Not , ^T '"""'■ "•""•»' 
 "<" flatter, 'tis true- but 1, 7 '''" ^""■'"'' ^ d" 
 ";«» »' our old clrercJS/t ^°" "^ ''" 
 ot the sweet song you san^?. ^ ^^ """'"'l "« 
 
 P-baps you wilf n' t S L t '™ "" ""'^ ' 
 
 me tuesomo in asking 
 
NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 1.37 
 
 you to repeat it Emile smiled OBsent ; and I led 
 her to the piano. She commenced that simple, yet 
 beautiful song of Moore's, *' Those Evening Bells." 
 
 "Those evening bells, those evening bolls, 
 How many a tale their music tells 
 Of youth and hope, and that sweet time, 
 When last I heard their soothing chime. 
 
 " Those joyous hours are passed away, 
 And many a heart that then was gay 
 Within the tomb now darkly dwells, 
 And hears no more those evening bells." 
 
 " And so 'twill be when I am gone." " Allien I am 
 gone !" *^ By the bye," said I, interrupting Emile, " have 
 I not told you, dearest Emile, that I have only come 
 to ask how you are, and to say 'good bye,' and 
 to be off again t " Emile hung down her head, and 
 those soft, silky ringlets, were hiding a tear. " Cheer 
 up, my Emile," said I. " You know it is quite a sailor's 
 life — here to-day, and gone to-morrow. You must 
 reconcile yourself to these short and sudden visits 
 in a sailor's wanderings." Emile could not speak, — 
 her heart had burst, — and her eyes overflowed with 
 tears. I led her back to the sofa, — pressed her hand 
 to my lips. — And I was sitting in a boat, going off 
 to my ship, before many seconds had passed away. 
 That evening was nearly my last. The night was 
 very dark indeed, much in unison with my feelings 
 at the moment; and we could scarcely see a cable's 
 length a-head. A man and his young son were pulling. 
 
:!"ii! li'r 
 
 I 'I 
 
 138 
 
 SAFELY MOORED. 
 
 and had arrived as far as Spithead, and I was looking 
 about for my siiip, when the Havre Steam Packet 
 came in through the Needles at full speed; and she 
 was close upon us. Nothing could be seen or heard 
 but her paddle-box lights, and the loud splashing of 
 her wheela The more we pulled away, the more 
 we appeared to be getting under her stem. We 
 imagined she was going up the harbour. All stood 
 up in the boat — she was close on us. We screamed, 
 but our cries were lost in the noise of the paddle 
 wheels, and the steam blowing off. I had my bag 
 in my hand, and was just on the point of jumping 
 overboard, when, by a providential turn, she kept 
 away, and went to sea on her voyage. 
 
 At dawn of day we sailed, and a slashing wind soon 
 brought us in sight of the " Sweet land of the West," 
 where we anchored ; but not before we had a deluge of 
 rain, natural to the West of England, and a smart 
 S.W. gale. The ship was soon paid oflf ; and we were 
 once more at liberty, free as the laik. 
 
 I am now safely moored on shore. I am not going to 
 tire the patience of my young readers, who have so 
 kindly followed on the voyages to India and China, 
 by taking them to sea again for a short time. I have 
 given positive orders to the servant " to call me if 
 it blows hard," which she does. I put my hand out 
 of the window, but I ilon't see it. " All right to-night," 
 think I myself *' No reefing top-sails," although the 
 wind is howling about your house. No beef boat at 
 half-past four in the morning. I press my nose into 
 my pillow, and haiU the sheets, as Jack says, ''flat 
 aft again." 
 
 1 
 
' looking 
 Packet 
 and she 
 or heard 
 slung of 
 more 
 We 
 II stood 
 reamed, 
 paddle 
 wy bag 
 uniping 
 
 kept 
 
 d soon 
 West," 
 luge of 
 smart 
 e were 
 
 ing to 
 ive so 
 ^hina, 
 have 
 ne if 
 I out 
 
 the 
 it at 
 into 
 'flat 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 189 
 
 I am now about to pass my examination for a 
 midshipman; and, therefore,'! shall find employment 
 sufficient for a few days. And this is fortunate, for 
 I should not like to press immediately on my young 
 readers, what may appear to some of them "tedious 
 yams." The few incidents which I have narrated must 
 be considered as appertaining only to a MID. in his 
 young, and, I may say, thoughtk-s aays ; next will follow 
 his boyhood, — then his youth ; in each of which I hope 
 a perceptibly progressi\e improvement will be noticed. 
 Each little incident, however, is narrated exactly as 
 it happened; "truo" without embellishment, without 
 imagination, wlrhout fiction. If any should, howevc, 
 Incnr the censure of the reader for inelegance, or 
 impropriety, they will always have the satisfaction 
 of knowing, that **fact" is their motto and basis; 
 and that they only wanted a little colouring, or a 
 little refining, to make them acceptable. This the 
 mid. of '* two years' standing" does not pretend to do. 
 
 I must here call to mind the fact, and I have 
 no doubt it has been noticed before, that among the 
 very many anecdotes and tricks to which midshipmen 
 are naturally prone from their lightness of heart and 
 flighty disposition, none are malicious, or bad, or done 
 with an evil motive; all for mere fun, fancy, and 
 pastime. And, therefore, I think we may hope for 
 forgiveness from those who no doubt consider some 
 of these tricks, that I have related, " shocking "III 
 

 ill 
 
 ibsr. 
 
 PAET SECOND. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 "JACK OX SHORE." 
 
 TRICKS ON SHORE — THE OMNIBUS — AN INTEBESTINO VOTAOE — 
 FITTING OUT — OFFICERS — TERROIl AND E&EUUS — SAD ACCI- 
 DENT^ — A LONG ADIEU. 
 
 'Lor' how I pity 
 Unhappy folk on shore, sirs," &o. 
 
 Old Song. 
 
 It may not be generally known, and may be better 
 to confess before it is so, that a midshipman is quite 
 as alive to " tricks " on shore, as he is at sea ; and 
 domestic girls suffer sometimes. The sheets, or table- 
 cloths, are reefed when hung out to dry (that is, 
 made up in hard balls which no one can open) ; the 
 clothes lines are " sheepshanked," or tied in true 
 lover's knots ; and the cat frequently suffers. But one 
 good natured trick makes amends for one dozen of 
 these mischievous ones. And I recollect on one 
 occasion after I had come on shore with a little 
 
 jm 
 
 MM 
 
THE OMNIBUS. 
 
 141 
 
 prizo-money in my pocket, — for you must know that 
 it is an old and true saying, '< a sailor and his money 
 soon part," — I had to take a trip in an omnibus (the 
 Green Atlas, if I recollect right) from the Elephant and 
 Castle, in London, to Charing Cross, fare threepence. 
 Now I did not know much of London, as it may 
 be very soon seen. The Buss was ''full inside," and 
 a mighty agreeable collection of passengers they ap- 
 l)eared to be, all chatting, and so polite. Would insist 
 on your taking the upper and most comfortable seat 
 away from the door, out of the draft, every one moving 
 to the doorway when a new arrival appeared. Well, 
 we started full (but lost two on the passage), ten 
 remaining for Charing Cross, our destination. As I 
 was the first in, and sat near the door to be attentive in 
 handing ladies in, I was of course the first out. I 
 counted heads, and found ten ; ten times three, thought 
 I to myself, thirty ; thirty pence are two and sixpence. 
 I'll pay for all hands. The Buss stopped, ** Charing 
 Cross, sir." ** Cross, Ma'am," touching the rim of his 
 hat so polite. Before I alighted, I announced to them 
 inside my intention of paying for "all hands." They 
 said nothing, looked at me, and looked at each other, as 
 much as to say, '* Poor fellow, he's a little gone." 
 Again I assured them of my determination to pay 
 for all, placing "half-a- crown" in the conductor's band, 
 and telling them that if they paid again, they would 
 be paying twice over. Well, they looked harder still 
 at me ; never said " I'm obliged to you." So I was 
 walking away, when the polito conductor placed his 
 
iii 
 
 ^,1 ■ ^! 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 r 
 
 V. 
 
 i 
 
 A '. 
 
 i 
 
 JL 
 
 142 
 
 FAIREST OF TIFK PAIU. 
 
 fingor gently upon my arm, put tho half-crown between 
 his teeth with a knowing twitch of tho eye, hit it 
 to see if it was good. Thank you, sir, says he, touching liis 
 hat smartly, and off I walked. 
 
 On another occasion, I was attracted by a very 
 new and pretty waltz (I was always fond of music), 
 that was playing by a very enlivening band in an 
 enclosed place. My curiosity and love for music 
 induced me to enter. It was then a little past ** quarter 
 • day ;" and I had a few shillings, which were fast burning 
 a hole in my pocket. I entered the enclosure, beau- 
 tifully decorated (not myself, but the enclosure) with 
 flags and evergi'eens, around which were numerous 
 stalls, presided over by the "Fairest of the F«ir;" 
 and that was the name of " the waltz " that attracted 
 me. It was a fancy bazaar in aid of some charitable 
 institute. I paid my shilling, like eveiy one else I 
 suppose, and walked in. I was at once assailed by 
 an irresistible appeal from several smiling faces. "Oh, 
 do put in for this, sir ; we only want one more member 
 for this wax doll ; see it will open and shut its eyes." 
 " How wonderful," said I; " they must have taken me for 
 a * happy* man." "What am I to do with tho wax 
 doll," I asked, " if I should win it ?" "Oh, we'll send it 
 for you, sir." " Oh, I am sure you will raffle for this 
 watch guard." "How much?" said I. "Half-a-crown." 
 " Here's a beautiful chair, worked by the prettiest girl in 
 the town ; you cannot refuse to put in for that." " That is 
 yourself, of course," said I, taking a ten shilling ticket. 
 And, she added, 'Uiere are a pair of baby*s shoes for 
 
 •mSSSt 
 
 naSS^SBSSSB 
 
A FANt!Y PAIIl. 
 
 U3 
 
 tlio second prize." " Oh I charming," thought I. " What 
 name, sir? " " Oh, anything you like, ma'mselle. Please 
 yonreelf, and I cannot but bo pleased." I liad now reached 
 the top of the apartment, and £3 17s. 6(1. liad been 
 devoted to tickets. I had one shilling lofl; and 
 announced the fact to those around me in a touching 
 and affecting speech, which they did not believe one 
 word of. I reached the end of the building where 
 I at first entered, and pulling out my last shilling, 
 handed it to the young ladies, with a hope that 
 they would now allow me to pay my way out. I 
 never hear that waltz, but I think of my £3 17«. 6</., 
 and the black eyes and ringlets by which I was 
 imperceptibly drawn in. 
 
 I must now inform my young readers — that I am 
 a midshipman of four years standing — that I have 
 mounted a clean white patch — that I intend to keep 
 it clean and untamislicd from any of the boyish 
 " tricks " confessed in my former " leaves." I have 
 to thank you, however, for perusing them ; and for 
 following me so perseveringly and so patiently through 
 storm and calm, through tempest and war — during 
 two long, tedious, and uninteresting voyages, over 
 a period of four years — to China, the East Indies, 
 and elswhere. 
 
 I suppose you will n«w expect something more 
 than mere "tricks." Well, I must confess I do feel 
 a little above those now ; although I can still join 
 in what is termed a " sky-lark " with all my heart. 
 
 I am now going to promise you (as a reward for 
 patience) an outline, or a mere cursory view of one of 
 
144 
 
 AX INTEKESTINO VOYAGE. 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 the most delightful, interesting, profitable and successful, 
 yet protracted voyages round the world, over I believe 
 performed by one of Her Majesty's ships. Delightftil, 
 because led and commanded by a good-natured Irish 
 heart. Interesting, because it extended over the " world 
 of waters;" from the Arctic Sea to the South Seas, 
 from the East Indies and China, to Africa, America, and 
 Siberia. Profitable and successful for numerous reasons, 
 particularly for enlightening the world to many places 
 before unknown. Protracted, from unforeseen events, 
 and from zeal and determination to conclude it 
 effectually and creditably. 
 
 To give, in detail, all events connected with this 
 pleasing cruise would fill volumes, and, perhaps, tire 
 the reader before he waded through half of them. 
 My intention is, however, to pass over political and 
 historical ev* s, and profound reading; and to lay before 
 the young reader all that I think likely to amuse and 
 instruct, as briefly as I am able. And in doing so, I 
 shall be compelled to pass over many occurrences, 
 for if I entered into all, my leaves, which were only 
 intended as a "pocket-book," would swell into a 
 a mass scarcely portable. I shall, therefore, confine myself 
 almost exclusively to my own midshipman's ideas. 
 
 The ship had completed her fitting at one of the 
 worst of seaport towns. All the trouble, inconvenience, 
 and bother of preparing for sea, from a mere hulk 
 to an effective vessel of war, was over. And although • 
 it occupied months, we congratulated ourselves on 
 the ship being in every respect perfect; perhaps not 
 perfectly symmetrical in her lines outwardly, but 
 
OFFICEUS. 
 
 145 
 
 inwardly comfortable and happy in ourselves, we had one 
 of the best, gallant, and most good-natured of captains, 
 our first lieutenant a typo of a sailor ; the other officers 
 specially chosen for their amiability of disposition, 
 and their philosophy of temper to meet many of the 
 tr}'ing scenes which wo had to encounter; therefore 
 it all depended on ourselves whether we were ta 
 be a "happy ship " or not. 
 
 The only object of particular notice when fitting out, 
 was our being the last vessel of war to wave our caps to 
 the ill-fated Terror and Erebus, Franklin's expedition. 
 I had many true, warm-hearted and brave messmates 
 amongst them, and I can answer for myself, on that 
 day wishing health anil God speed with all my heart. 
 It was the same day that we were inspected by the 
 Port Admiral, and manning yards answered the double 
 purpose, of respect to one, success to the other. 
 
 The day of our final sailing from the west of England 
 was rendered melancholy by a sad accident : several 
 of the men's wives and fauiilies liad been on board 
 to take a last farewell, and when on their return 
 from final parting (and they in reality said "adieu 
 for ever "), the boat was caught in a squall, four women 
 and two children met a watery grave ; the crew 
 were saved by clinging to the boat; thus our departure 
 had a sad gloom cast over it. However, off" we startec^, 
 and this accident, added to the fact that we were leaving 
 all near and dear to us for many years, made us 
 both desponding and gloomy; many a tear was shed, 
 and many a heart sank within, as tlie white cliffs 
 of old England faded from our view. 
 
146 
 
 A LONG ADIEU. 
 
 " Whilo flew the yessel on her snowy wing, 
 And fleeting shores receded from our sight." 
 
 ^' Adieu then to old England, and farewell to all 
 those who think of us/' said we, turning our backs 
 on the land we might never see again. It was my 
 first watch, every moment appeared an hour, the 
 night closed slowly and drearily over us, and the 
 land had entirely disappeared ; I leaned on the nettings 
 and gazed on the spot where land was last seen, 
 hoping to get one more glimpse of it ; but no, it had 
 gone 1 Then we exclaimed, ** There ! that spot contains 
 all we own near and dear to us, and we are to part 
 for years, perhaps for ever." With these feelings we 
 endeavoured to obtain rest ; our thoughts first vandcred 
 towards home, then on the next sea that was about 
 to strike us, for a gale from S.W. had now raised 
 the waves to a considerable height — wo were in a storm. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 OUTWARD BOUND. 
 
 OUTWAKD BOUND — LAST OLIMTSE — POIITO SANTO — TKNEllIFFK — 
 BRITISH COLOURS — AN ADVENTUHK — A I'lllATE — IN DISTHESS 
 
 — EQUATOR — FERNANDO NORONHA — RIO — MAN OVERBOARD 
 
 — FALKLAND ISLES — BOAT CAPSIZED — ROUNDING THE HORN — 
 EKIIIT GALES — ICEBERG — AN AWFUL GALE — TWO TUIRUS 
 ALLOWANCE — VALPARAISO — AN EXECUTION — SPANISH WAKE — 
 EARTHQUAKE — PAPUDO — SAN LORENZO — CALLAO — TRIP TO 
 LIMA — LIMA — BALL OF GOLD — BULL FIGHT — PAYT.^ — SANTA 
 CLARA. 
 
 ** As slow our ship her foamy traok 
 Against the wind was cleaving, 
 Her trembling pennant still looked back 
 
 To that dear isle 'twas leaving. 
 So loath we part from all wo lovo, 
 From all the links that bind us; 
 So turn our hearts, as on we rove, 
 To those we've left behind us." 
 
 Tom Moohe. 
 
 On passing ''Porto Santo," it was decided we were 
 not to go to " Madeira." With what effect that decision 
 struck me may he concluded, for I had looked forward 
 to meeting old friends, particularly those at whose 
 house I had performed so well on the "bread and 
 butter"; and it also would have afforded me an op- 
 portunity of enquiring after tlie poor old woman 
 
 L 2 
 

 II H 
 
 'n<:M>;jiiii<(<'K. 
 
 m 
 
 J 
 
 i< I'X 
 
 wljn luui HutU'nMJ hy \hv hoMmg^ of Ji y Anu»ncnn »1(*«'(1. 
 I fonsolod i>»yw<'lt', Isows'ViTj with makii),^^ n Mkot«h 
 of iN>! fo 8;iiit(> an<l ih*>w> •ii.Hjiiu) " Wwrtim." 
 
 I Aiw tihuost f;l}ul, on dtojipin^'L^' Rnrhor at 'reacrilTf, 
 tlmi Nvt> had j»jihm<xI Miuleiru, for si. ulVonle*! mo :nj 
 opportUHity ol" swUig a wpof, not Ix-Jor*' viwitotl nm^ 
 which I uiiiy tiot ««h' uj^him; aiul {i« tUvrv aro jujujv 
 intoiVNt.in|j; oveitts <.*onmN't<'d \vit)i it aiul tho inm»or!nl 
 NtifuMn, 1 nuist ilmote u Soni' to it. 
 
 Tho town itsoU' is nustmhh? c»iou;^h, immi Spaniwlii 
 tt>wn» HIV ; i\w unvii'Jit iV).d» juv vurJoUH) aixl th<' 
 btnn hoath HUpply yoii abunilant^y with Ihiit, breas!, 
 
 mui {H't.H. 
 
 The ilji'st Nj)ot J{S.MtU'<l on wm iho i»« inorable fort, 
 whore Nt?l»ou SMot tt jtiU'tilt! <!«'f«L^ut and KKst hh arm. 
 On ivjM'hing tht? rlivuch on which stunds " NcIhod'm 
 TovvtT," ill .soxaxoiuil form. \\\\ rotdd ju>t help being 
 struck with the jK'c«!iarly (hv^^ciuuting figures and tho 
 pierciuj;" oyi?8 of the Spanish Indios, which n\ad»' it 
 fjuito ibm^iferons to oueonnter them. In Nelson's 
 ("hnrch tho iiguro of tho Virgin Mtuy »j>poarcd lifo 
 ilHolf; it was iinposiMbhj to s»a«;o on tlio melancholy 
 face and fi)ritn svitliont fi?eling a gloomy chill at the 
 countonanrc of iitter despair, it was u perfect roja'c- 
 sentaJion. We passed tiu) giasH cjiao containing tho 
 lost British colours, placed in the most conspicnous 
 part of the btiildii^ji; ; and hi doinj^ so I longed to 
 Im.» ono of a fovv who may have a chanco of cutting 
 them ox(t and reH<'\iinj.t thoni, Mhich miglit be a/^com- 
 pUshcd in a "j*>)ty boat." Hero one of onr yonn^ 
 mids, had a ndeualventure with, a '* lance <'orporal," 
 
 
 »iiiHn*\«<<W' «' 
 
A riKATi-: 
 
 149 
 
 a»nl fttHNlxMi nU'wilh No. ^tl watcli-hoiw, Tlio <*«rr«Tt 
 v<'i*sioii of the 8t*)ry w<; vAmhl n«;v<;r |>ro|K!rly fts<"<'rtain, 
 tlH'rt'Jbro f uuiHi uoi irnagino it ; ho hownvfT CMoajwrrl 
 with rM»thii)g ujoro th.in ntiff jointH art'l a Iwadarh*', 
 liiii for whi<'h rfloaso ho was itj<l«'l)tt;<l in wnna manner 
 to an »ri<livi(hiMl about to in- hsm^inl that vary day, 
 l>ut which >vaK |K>stpoin!(l, tm a hanuinjin <-ouM not 
 htt found; a Sparuard, how«!V<r, vohuitfcn^l to "stick 
 liirn" puhllcly tor a dolhir. 'Ihe unfortunato wretch 
 liiid heeu in ]>rison w^venteen yoars, atid had hoeri 
 <'i>ndcuuje(' to (ieuth as a pirate. 
 
 A day or two after leaving Teneriflfo we ha<l the 
 ph'usure to relieve from starvation a sinall SpaniHh 
 M;hooncr with thirty-five rnen» they had been Idown off 
 the htnd, and knew not their whorealjonts ; they were 
 without food, antl hut two pints of water rentaining. 
 If wo had not met them they rnUHt liave faUen -a. 
 sa(Tj fue to iujugor and thirst. Biseuit and water waa 
 sent sufKeiont to carry them to Teneritfe. 
 
 A^ain tlie hue was crossed, and a»,'aii!B Neptune, the 
 j>;od of the sea, visited us. On I- ^iei*tat»ion, bis wile 
 looked <'harmin<ij, dressed in soiw-t- ii-rnale attire l,>rought 
 from the seaport where we fitted out, by one of our 
 "mild tars"; the carriage drawn by six horses %*econd- 
 class boys), an<l the footman the " biH<.'k cook," really 
 all went otf arfuisin«;ly, and amazin<^lj well. 
 
 The sea waa so transparent that a dinner plate was 
 seen at the depth of seventy-oi^ht feet from the surface. 
 
 "Fernando Noronha" was .seen, the peak of which is 
 very peculiar, with its northern face beyond tJie per- 
 pendicular ; the fort was plainly vl.siblo, which is guarded 
 
 
 ■ 
 
l! 
 
 i 
 
 I' 
 
 150 
 
 BIO. 
 
 by Brazilian troops. This is the place of banishment 
 ibr Brazilian convicts, the vilest wretches in the world. 
 
 Rio was reached in safety, but the harbour appeared 
 deserted in comparison to my last visit An evening 
 promenade in Soap Street was all we had to amuse 
 us (luring our stay here, indeed we were too busy 
 to attend to anything, preparing for sea occupied all 
 our attentions; but one day I recollect being sent 
 on what afterwards turned out an unpleasant duty, 
 and it had to be performed in the "rickety skiff." 
 The armourer and blacksmith having some work to 
 perform on shore, did as most sailors do at Rio, go 
 and get very dioink ; I found them after much trouble, 
 buried in mud behind a pothouse, and with great 
 difficulty, not unattended by danger, got them into 
 the skiff. *' Well," says the armourer to his chum, 
 "well dusty (liic), didn't I say (hie) (hie) that I'd 
 stick to you like a brick (hie) now, aye? and haven't I 
 done it, (hie)" (exhausted). I could hardly repress 
 a smile, the only excuse they had was "their inclination 
 led them aj»tray ;'' they were, as a matter of course, 
 " led into irons."" 
 
 We had scarcely got clear of the harbour of Rio 
 when the cry of " a man overboard " was heard ; 
 as quick as thought the ship was rounded to, life-buoy 
 lot go, bail shortened, a boat lowered; the u.xn had 
 scarcely tinie to get wet, he was saved. 
 
 We anchored in Port William, F;ilkland Isles, after a 
 tedious and storm v passage; long before we saw land 
 large patches of kelp- weed and flocks of penguins 
 were passed tlirougli, and it frequently appeare<l to 
 
 i 
 
 il 
 
 *-- 
 
 mm 
 
THE HORN. 
 
 151 
 
 US as if we were running on shore ; some of the patches 
 were very extensive, the branches as largo as a five- 
 inch hawser, and the leaves of this marine plant 
 (laminaHa) spread on the surface. I was in a vessel 
 once which was moored in eleven fathoms by bringing 
 several parts of this weed through the hawse pipes, 
 and secuiiug them to the windlass. 
 
 Only a small v, )a8ting schooner lay in the bay, 
 and it was but yesterday she lost four hands while 
 coming off to this vessel in a squall. The settlement 
 is misery itself, shooting is indeed the only pastime, 
 and there are abundance of rabbits, geese, ducks, teal, 
 and snipe in all parts of the island ; wo frequently 
 went out, and had to return early with all we could 
 carry. 
 
 ROUNDING THE HORN. 
 
 Everything waa now prepared to round the nmch- 
 lircaded Horn, and during a season anything but 
 tempting; all booms and small sails got down, stump 
 to]>-gallaut masts rigged, ports caulked in, boats and 
 everything secured for a boisterou.s puHsag Aiioh we 
 anticipated. 
 
 Our anticipations unfortunately proved too coiTect, 
 we were for one month in hm\ weather, and eight 
 successive gales as quick as they could Ibllow each 
 other, only havii»g an interval of "lull" between, 
 merely to gain renewed effort; to describe one of 
 these gales, therefore, will be to ilescribe all, except 
 that we had to go through all ; the reader will but 
 have the trouble of reading one. 
 
 I' 
 
:. I 
 
 152 
 
 A TERRIFIC UALE. 
 
 We had passed an immense iceberg calculated to 
 be about two miles in length, and were compelled 
 to ** wear ship " to avoid it, and it made the atmosphere 
 and water around it bitter cold ; it was a grand sight 
 when the sun shone on it at intervals, and we could 
 tell for several hours before seeing it that wo were 
 ill the vicinity of one, the air and water having partaken 
 of its coldness. 
 
 The gale commenced, and all sail shortened to storm 
 stay-sails ; it was my middle watch, ** all hands " 
 were " tui*ned up,"" a aca struck the ship on the quarter, 
 and threw the man at ihe helm over the wheel; his arm 
 was broken, but it was a miracle ho was not killed. 
 The next sea stove in a main deck port, floating 
 every deck and cabin before a new one could be shipped ; 
 the sea now rose as high as the necklace on the 
 main-mast. The wind was still increasing, the baro- 
 meter had fallen to 2tt" 69', thermometer at freezing 
 point, forming icicles on the rigging, and rendering 
 it slippen', harsh, and painful to handle ; the quarter- 
 boat was lifted by a sea, the ship was battened down 
 fore anil all, the wind whistled through the rigging, 
 and made the ship tremble again, the oldest sailors 
 say "they never saw it blow so hard." There was 
 a pinkish hue all over the sky, and the sea was 
 a milk white foam, which lent to the scene a very 
 awful appearance ; another sea washed away the weather 
 gangway, every moment we expected our storm sails 
 would blow to atoms, but they were new and held 
 on well ; every sea was now breaking over us, and 
 threatening our destruction, the decks Avere all afloat, 
 
A MAN OVERBOAKD. 
 
 153 
 
 and several sick men were washed out of their 
 lianimocks. The heaviest sea struck us at midnight, 
 staving in the forecastle nettings, starting the fore- 
 channels, springing the fure-mast, and striking the officer 
 of the watch, who v/as some time insensible. We could 
 now do no more I The ship and tUl in her were at 
 the mercy of the gale, our trust was in Him ** Who 
 walks upon the waters and rides upon the storm," 
 and who has but to say to the winds and the waves 
 " Peace be unto you, and instantly there will be a calm.** 
 It soon moderated, it could not get worse ; and as we 
 were about to prepare to make sail, that cry, which 
 strikes the heart with horror and dismay, ran through 
 the ship — 
 
 A MAN OVERBOARD. 
 
 " Now tho dreadful thunder rolling, 
 Peal on peal, contending dash ; 
 On our heads fierce rain falls pouring, 
 In our eyes blue lightnings dash. 
 One wide water all around us, 
 All above us one black sky ; 
 Different deaths at oih'u surround us, 
 Hark I — what means that dreadful cry ? " 
 
 *'A man overboard 1" The life buoy was let go (though 
 very imprudently before the man has passed astern), 
 and a boat lowered ; and it will not be believed, except 
 by those who witnessed it, that one sea washed the man 
 out of the ship at the fore-chains, the next washed him 
 into the ship at the main-cliains ! The boat was saved 
 with much difficulty. Preparations for leaving the 
 gale now conimoiiced, and jokes began to be passed. 
 
154 
 
 TWO TIIIIIDS. 
 
 Quo day while on the ibrecastle I overheard a strungo 
 and ** lon^-wiuded yam" by one of our oldest tars, who 
 was considered a character. *' Those," ho says, '* those 
 were nothing to the waves we had when I was coming 
 round hero in the old Temerario, we had a sneezer 
 once that laid her on her extremities, and blew the 
 buttons off my pee jacket; ono moment I was on 
 the lower deck enjoying my du-doen, when all at 
 once I was taken ofif my logs, and in less than a minute 
 I was sitting on the nether edge of a cloud." " And 
 hov/ did you come down, Jerry t " *' Why, 1 waited 
 fur a rainbow, and got upon it, greased it well, and 
 slid down." " But was it long enough, Jerry ?" ** No ; 
 so I held fast for a shower, and then came down 
 with the stream." This was a yam, but one day 
 the same old salt made a very witty remark, I was 
 within hearing; a sea broke o^er the forecastle where he 
 \\s)s at work and wadhed him down, which made 
 him growl ii little. " Never mind," says one of his 
 coniloling messmates, *• never mind, old Jerry, Britannia 
 rules the waves." '* Ilang it," says he, " I wish she'd 
 iulo them straight." 
 
 A commodore at Kio told us " there was nothing 
 certain i>ut one thing in this worUI," that was " a 
 gule of wind rounding the Horn ; " we found that 
 saying fully verified. 
 
 Just after escaping tho troubles of the last gale, 
 wo found it necessary to go on two thirds allowance 
 of provisions, and barely sufKcient fliel to cook that 
 small (|uantity; this was hard indeed, constant wo;.*k 
 in a cold latitude made us all very hungry. 
 
VALPAttAISO— EXECUTION. 
 
 1.55 
 
 We arrive at Valparaiso, at the foot of Mount 
 Aconcagua, the /♦iant of the Andes, twenty-three thou- 
 sand feet ahovc the level of the sea, after many perils 
 by water, calling on our passage at Valdivia and Con- 
 ception Bays ; the former famous for Fort St. Carlos 
 and neat gardens, the latter for bemg swarmed with 
 "([uebraiite huesos" (bono breakers), a black sea-bird 
 which lay in myriads in the harbour, and appear at 
 first sight like shoals. 
 
 The first unpleasant ftight I was compelled to seo 
 at Valparaiso was an execution (a Spanish one), 
 while walking through the Almendral, where thou- 
 sands of persons had assembled to witness it — more 
 women than mer.. The culprit, a fine stout Spaniard, 
 was led out on the Plaza, seated on a wooden stool 
 fixed to the ground by a stake, and to this ho wag 
 secured ; four soldiers came forward and fired, but only 
 one shot appeared to take effect, and produced but 
 a slight quiver in the prisoner ; five more then pointed 
 their bayonets to the spots they in*jnded to fire at; 
 on firing, one passed through his temple, another 
 through his heart ; his houd dropped, and the rascal 
 who confessed to seven murders was a lifeless corpse. 
 His body was dragged through the town by two mules 
 decorated with flowers and evergreens, and after every 
 one had an opportunity of seeing the body, the head 
 was carried to the spot of the last murder, where it 
 is to bo placed on a pole for public gaze. Not a 
 single authority appeared to be present ot the execution, 
 not even an officer to command the guard, who were 
 a dusty, reckless set of fellows, in much spirits. These 
 
156 
 
 HPAMISU WAKE. 
 
 executions do not appear to have tlie eft'oct of example, 
 for the very same night a man was murdered while 
 playing Mont^, at that liorrid part of Valparaiso called 
 « Almandral." 
 
 "Travellers" they say "see strange things," and 
 so they do. We were taking a stroll around the 
 town, on a very beautiful evening, and the sounds 
 of music attracted our attention ; there was a Spanish 
 wake in the house, as extraordinary a scene as I ever 
 witnessed ; an Irish wake, which is absurd enough, 
 has no chance near it ; we came to the door and 
 were welcomed, and hot liquors passed round. 
 
 The child (which was of course dead) was laid out 
 on a table in the centre of the room, decorated in a 
 profuse manner with flowers, papers, and paints ; polkas, 
 8[>ani8h dances, and Zamba Cuecas were danced with 
 mufih apparent joy round the corpse, and to conclude 
 the scene, each person present was compelled, according 
 to custom, to take the child by the heels and swing 
 it tiirce tiuica round their head ; now whether this 
 was a mad freak incited by drink I cannot say, for 
 I never had a chance of attending another "wake," 
 but I much regretted not knowing the language 
 sufficiently to hear what their several speeches alluded to. 
 
 Two shocks of earthquake were felt here. It will 
 be recollected that in 1832 the town was destroyed 
 by an earthquake, and every three years slight shocks 
 recur ; the houses are built purposely low, and of light 
 material, to avoid the consequences. 
 
 Papudo Bay next finds us at anchor in its waters, 
 the long and continued line of surf reminds me much 
 
CALLAO. 
 
 157 
 
 (on a small scale) of the Madras rollers ; a few small 
 houses, about 100 inhabitants, who are very hospitable, 
 and are delighted to seo a ninn-of-war in their bay. 
 
 The morning wa.s calm and beautiful, not an air 
 of wind disturbed the peaceful bay of Papudo; sail 
 was made, and "we hove in short" to tempt "rudo 
 Boreas " to waft us to Callao. When the sea breeze 
 set in we started; and our young fiiends, who have 
 been so persevering in their attempts the last two 
 evenings bo teach us the stops of the Zamba Cucca 
 and R^feliosa, were soon lost in the haze. 
 
 On my first walk round Callao, the seaport of Lima, 
 it presented to me one or two dusty and sunburnt 
 irregular streets ; with mad dogs, bare chicken, animalH 
 between a monkey and cat (the natives call them 
 "pig-dogs," the most repulsive animals imaginable), 
 howling and chuckling about the gutters. I hope on 
 a future visit to have reasons for giving a more pleasing 
 account of this place. 
 
 We passed San Lorenzo, and anchored in Callao 
 lioads. This extraordinary rock, covered at times with 
 sea lions, and where many a hunt is enjoyed, thus camu 
 to light. In 1 74)6 a dreadful earthquake overwhelmed 
 the cities of Lima and Callao, and they disappeared 
 in six fathoms of water ; ** breakers " now exist where 
 Callao was, and Lorenzo takes its name from a man 
 who happened to be out fishing at the time, and 
 suddenly found himself (with his son and daughter), 
 on the top of this island rock, uplifted at the same 
 instant that Lima and Callao disappeared ; it is 6 miles 
 long, and 400 feet in height. Ancestors of the Lorenzos 
 
158 
 
 LIMA. 
 
 ! i: 
 
 m 
 
 are chaired and carried round the city in procession, 
 decorated with flowers, &c., on each anniveniary of 
 that melancholy yet eventful day of their extraordinary 
 preservation. Callao, from my flattering account, did 
 not hold out much inducement for another viuit, and 
 it was therefore propostid to go to " Lima." 
 
 The "omnibus" (I hope to be forgiven for calling 
 it by that name) was to start at 2 p.m.; we dressed 
 in clothes which most resembled "dust," pepper and 
 salt coat, white hat, and veil, &c., and got into a ** cart" 
 (they call it "'bus") drawn by six mules; "smack" 
 went a powerful whip, and off" we went. The ladies 
 lit their cigarettes, the gentlemen shortly afler asking the 
 ladies for a light, when they took their cigars to smoke, 
 and presented their new ones in return ; it was preferable 
 being smothered with tobacco smoke, even bad, than 
 dust, which now gathered around us in clouds (the 
 trip from Suez to Cairo by van is far preferable, were 
 it not so long). We came to the remains of Bonavista, 
 a to>vn which was some time since entirely destroyed by 
 an earthquake ; the roads about here an, very bad, 
 and the dust in such quantities, that the nostrils of 
 all the mules are cut, some three or four inches, to 
 allow them to respire. The ** half-way-house " stopped 
 us ; you might as well think of passing '* Farmer Peck," 
 at Capo of Good Hope, as passing this house, where 
 the best Pisco in the world is to be had; I think it 
 tastes better because you are parched and choked 
 by sun, dust, and stale cigar smoke. 
 
 Crossed the "grove of the banditti," and really 
 one's blood chills at the talcs of horror told of robberii's 
 and murders, of frequent occurrence hero. 
 
LIMA. 
 
 159 
 
 We were now approaching the capital of South America, 
 and the change of scene improved ; trees, a sort of 
 willow, watered by a rivulet from the Kimac, fonned 
 an avenue to the city gates ; and here it appears 
 strange, to one not accustomed to it, seeing the women 
 riding across the mules — they say they have a very 
 good reason for doing so. 
 
 Horses were now put into the 'bus for the city part of 
 the voyage, and we entered the gates, but I was much 
 disappointed at the miserable appearance of the houses ; 
 the cathedrals are fine, but all filagree work, chalk 
 and paint, and tinselled paper, the shops are neat, and 
 some good ; but the most hazardous of all scenes 
 is to risk a bewitching glance from that one eye, 
 which from the careful and graceful folds of the mantilla 
 is allowed to escape and pierce your veiy heart ; niid 
 oh, my young reader, or perchance friend, let me advise 
 you never even to hazard such a glance ; I have oflen 
 thought if but one eye can do so much mischief, what 
 would both do if allowed their liberty, perhaps it is 
 on this account that one is kept a prisoner. If I were to 
 commence a description of the figures of these fascinating 
 brunettes, I am sure that I should fail in doing them 
 credit, so will leave it to a more skilful pen. There 
 is a portion of the city called the "Almada," that 
 reminds me very much of the Dyke at Cork ; it is 
 a promenade for the evening, and there may be seen 
 the mantilla to perfection. There are sixty-five churches 
 in Lima, and it is beautiful of a Sunday, early and 
 late, to see these attractive creatures going and coming 
 from their devotions ; they give their mantilla a flourish 
 
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 THE BALL OF GOLD. 
 
 as they come out of the doorway, as much as to sa ,-, 
 " Ah ! did you see." 
 
 The <' Ball of Gold," and the French, are the two 
 principal hotels, and if I have called those at Valparaiso 
 "land-sharks" for their exorbitance, I can only com- 
 promise the matter by calling these "robbers"; you 
 are stunned night and day, Sunday particularly, by 
 fellows bawling at the top of their voices, at almost 
 every doorway, "quatre-mille-pesos," which means that 
 a lottery is in progress where you may win your 
 100 or even 1000 dollars, or more if you please ; or 
 perhaps lose it. 
 
 All Lima assembled to-day to witness a bull fight, 
 it was the tamest affair imaginable, although fourteen 
 bulls and one horse were killed ; the unfortunate 
 animals were led one by one into the arena perfectly 
 quiet and harmless, until goaded to madness by darts 
 and fireworks, when the animal makes a rush at the 
 Matador, who lanced him, and down fell the beast, 
 when the cries and applause of the senioritas were 
 deafening, shouting "viva el matador," and throwing 
 dollars and other monies into the ring. Should tiie 
 animal however evade the lance, and at all appear 
 to have the advantage, he is immediately hamstrung 
 by some barbarous and cruel fellow, and is thus put 
 an end to, fighting on his stumps ; thus fourteen were 
 destroyed. " Bull-baiting," which may be seen in 
 Ireland, is far better sport, and more fair play for 
 the beast. As we passed through the city gates on 
 our return, we bade adieu to Lima, hoping soon to 
 
 see it ngaui. 
 
 t\' 
 
PAYTA. 
 
 161 
 
 Off the town of Payta, the seaport of Pura, and the 
 first city bi-ilt by the famous Pizarro, we next anchored. 
 This place has every appearance of an arid, barren, sun- 
 burnt spot, and there is not a drop of fresh water within 
 three leagues of the town. There is some difficulty in 
 landing, as the rollers set in all around the bay, and we 
 had to wait twenty minutes before we could place the 
 boat alongside the mole. The church was first visited; 
 and the greatest object of curiosity seemed to be *' the 
 Saint," saved from the convent which was burnt to the 
 ground by Lord Anson. The bloody marks are still on 
 the throat, where it is told you ** she attempted to cut 
 her head off, rather than die by fire." This was the 
 only relic saved from the burning mass, and is much 
 revered. On lifting what I thought to be the Spanish 
 colours off the altar, but whieh was afterwards found to 
 be the Padre's dressing-gown, or preaching-gown, out 
 fell, unfortunately, a bottle ofpiaco, for which I had to 
 pay two reals. Our guide told us, in confidence, this 
 was for the Fadre, for which I expressed real sorrow I 
 
 Payta consists of five streets, running parallel to each 
 other, and tapering off into a " main top" — which, in this 
 country, is a pot and dancing-house for tars on liberty 
 (at Valparaiso, there are a fore, main, and mizen top) — 
 very few shops, the principal one carried ou by a man 
 from " Galway"" ; there is an apology for an hotel, and a 
 worn-out billiard table. These are all the attractions of 
 Payta. 
 
 The island of Santa Clara, or Amortajada (the 
 shrouded corpse), is seen near the Guayaquil river, 
 which latter we would ascend, but the rain and heat are 
 intolerable, so we go across to the Galapagos. 
 
 31 
 

 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 THE GALAPAGOS. . 
 
 GALAPAGOS — POST-OFFICE BAY — QUITO — DEPLORABLE ACCIDENT — 
 
 THE GRAVE GALLO ISLAND — PANAMA BAT LETTERS — 
 
 PANAMA — PRISON — TABOGA — LONG VOYAGE VANCOUVER 
 
 ISLAND — NATIVES — FLATTERY JACK SALMON VICTORIA — 
 
 FLAT-HEADS — MURDER OF FLATTERY JACK SQUIRREL HUNT — 
 
 RESCUE FROM STARVATION ANOTHER A SCHOOLFELLOW — 
 
 BURIAL GROUND — PORT DISCOVERY — REVENGE — A GAME — A 
 TENDER MESSAGE — SCALPING — CRUISE OF THE CUTTER. 
 
 PoST-OFPiCE Bat, Charles Island, where we are now at 
 anchor, is so called from the fact of the buccaneers 
 under Dam pier, &c., having always placed their letters 
 under a large stone in one part of this bay for transmis- 
 sion. The bay abounds in fish, seal, turtle, and sharks ; 
 in one haul of the seine, there were landed three to four 
 tons of fish, loading the pinnace and whale-boat, half of 
 which had afterwards to be thrown overboard. 
 
 James' Island was found the best in the group 
 for tihelter. Terrapin (land turtle) abound on the 
 islands, and mf.ke excellent soup. The inhabitants 
 have dwindled from four hundred in number to forty, 
 since the revolution at Guayaquil ; and only one Eng- 
 
QUITO. 
 
 163 
 
 lish resident is to be found here, who has married 
 the Governor's sister, and commands a small trading 
 schooner. 
 
 After traversing the Equator for several days, among 
 the Galapagos, which islands are directly on it, we 
 crossed over to the mainland, and had an opportunity of 
 seeing (at a distance) Quito, which city is famous for 
 standing higher above the level of the sea than any in 
 the world. I think it is 9,000 feet. 
 
 It seldom or ever happens that, throughout a long and 
 arduous cruise in unknown places, and along unexplored 
 shores, that it will conclude without some misfortune to 
 damp and depress the spirits of all those connected with 
 it, and throw a gloom and melancholy around which 
 time and change of scene can alone efface ; and now it 
 was our sad lot to experience this. 
 
 All the boats had been away in this new, interesting, 
 and inviting country, taking many of the officers, here 
 shooting, there fishing, some collecting specimens of 
 geology, botany, and conchology, others reaping richer 
 productions. The day had been fine, but it was now 
 threatening ; clouds and lightning were to be seen sea- 
 ward, and a surf had already risen on the beach. 
 
 Towards evening, all had assembled on the shores, to 
 return to the ship, and there was difficulty in rushing 
 into the boats without getting wet ; during this, the 
 report of a gun was heard, a rush to one boat followed, 
 all pulled hastily on board, and our feelings may be 
 a little imagined when our most amiable, most beloved, 
 admired, and accomplished shipmate was handed up the 
 side a lifeless corpse I He was laid out on a grating, his 
 
 m2 
 
 ( 
 
164 
 
 DEPLORABLE ACCIDENT. 
 
 body still warm, and the union jack thrown gently over 
 h\ml 
 
 He was already in the boat, on the point of shoving 
 off; the fowling-pieces were laid below; when some 
 one, rushing through the surf to avoid getting wet, and 
 jumping into the boat, placed his foot on the lock of the 
 gun, and it exploded. 
 
 The ball passing through his temple, he fell over the 
 side without a groan ! Death was instantaneous. His 
 brains were literally strewn about the boat, and over 
 those few in her ; the sea was turned red with his blood. 
 Many near him escaped by a miracle. 
 
 This sudden and deplorable accident struck us all 
 with horror. Thus died a most amiable and beloved 
 messmate, a kind and willing shipmate, a young and 
 intelligent man, who was an ornament to his profession I 
 Such is life ! 
 
 How little did he or any of us imagine that " that day 
 his soul would be required of him ;" and what a lesson 
 it was to us to ** watch,'* " for we know not at what hour 
 the king of terrors cometh." 
 
 That was a mournful and dismal night. It was my 
 middle watch ; the rain poured down in torrents, the 
 thunder pealed forth its deafening sounds, the ligbining 
 flashed its vivid and terrifying streaks all around, lighting 
 up the heavens at short intervals, and displaying to us a 
 scene at once terrible, awful, and truly melancholy I 
 
 His remains were carried next day to their final place 
 of rest, an isolated spot, where we paid the last token of 
 respect to his departed soul ; leaving nothing to mark 
 the spot but a small sheet of copper nailed on a board, 
 
>/ 
 
 >'., 
 
 i 
 
 
 <r 
 
GALLO ISLAND — PANAMA. 
 
 165 
 
 bearing an inscription both short, touching, and simple. 
 We offered up a short prayer for the departed soul tlmt 
 had not one instant's warning to meet its Maker I 
 
 It did not require much consideration to depart from 
 a place that had so suddenly robbed us of a talented and 
 much esteemed friend. Passing some small and unim- 
 portant villages we were oft' Gallo Island, where Pizarro 
 (the Great) first retreated (in America), after an unsuc- 
 cessful attempt against "Quito." Landing at first in 
 " Tecames " Bay, which we have just left, he remained 
 here some time with his troops ; but his associate re- 
 turned to Panama, in hopes of sending a reinforcement 
 to enable them to take possession of the opulent terri- 
 tories, whose existence seemed to be no longer doubtful. 
 He soon after despatched a vessel to bring home Pizarro 
 and his companions from this island, which is infamous 
 for being the most unhealthy in America. 
 
 Anchored in Panama Bay, having gone through many 
 tedious and dreary days, while coming through Choco 
 Bay in light adverse winds, strong adverse currents, 
 heavy rains, thunder and lightning, passing some small 
 and dirty Spanish-Indian towns on the sea coast, with 
 long name&, such as Buenaventura, Esmeralda, Escon- 
 dido, &c., &c. The contrast was great in steering 
 through the Pearl Islands in the Bay of Panama; thickly 
 wooded with lofty, dark green trees, having bold faces of 
 massive purple rock, the sea dashing against them from 
 the broad Pacific, lead you into a scene both charming 
 and enchanting. 
 
 We had now " letters from home," the first for nine 
 long months; and oh, what changes take place in so short 
 

 \66 
 
 LETTERS —PRISON. 
 
 a time. Many had wished they had never received 
 them. In our own small community, one loses a father ; 
 two their mothers; one his wife and child; two othei*s 
 their wives; some their sisters! Others have been 
 robbed of their brightest hopes ; others rejected. Some 
 old messmates promoted, and many dismissed the service. 
 We were all prepared to condole with each other, but 
 passed that evening in solitude and misery : many 
 consoled themselves that " no news was good news." 
 
 The once famous City of Panama is almost in ruins ! 
 As there is a day to spare, we travel over it, though 
 hardly able to, from the extreme heat of the sun and the 
 attentive mosquitoes. It being the season of Lent, 
 which is veiy strictly observed, every one is *' quiet." 
 We met the captain of the port, who had just succeeded 
 to the vacancy caused by a rascal murdering the two 
 sisters of his ** Compromiso," and now lies in prison con- 
 demned to be shot. 
 
 The prison, over which is the military hospital, has 
 about thirty prisoners; one, who calls himself a "Britisher," 
 commanded a small trading vessel, and is condemned 
 for life, for taking away from Panama (innocently, he 
 says) two men who were sentenced to death. Another 
 prisoner to be shot for stabbing his steward. Many 
 were busy making very neat straw hats and other orna- 
 ments. The cathedral, the only one of ten remaining, 
 is a fine building, still hanging together, but will soon 
 fall ; the other nine are converted into stables, barracks, 
 a college, &c., and show how this once famed dty has 
 declined, both in wealth and population. 
 
 On the ramparts were six brass guns, an iron one, and 
 
tahoqa. 
 
 167 
 
 I'eceived 
 father ; 
 others 
 } been 
 Some 
 service, 
 er, but 
 many 
 
 >i 
 
 a mortar, remaining to defend the town, which was at 
 one period strongly fortified — that day has Hed ! The 
 streets are filthy — the poor, lame, and diseased innu- 
 merable, and flock round you every time you stop, to 
 solicit " Un real, por el amor do Dios." 
 
 After completing provisions and water at the pretty 
 little island of " Taboga," of which I shall have much 
 to relate by-and-bye, we sailed on a long sea voyage up 
 the coast of North America, towards the Straits of Juan 
 de Fuca, where the celebrated Spanish pilot of that 
 name imagined he had discovered a passage through 
 the continent.* 
 
 The voyage occupied seventy d.ays, during which time 
 we did not even see land ; four of our crew died from 
 the many privations and hardships encountered on tl at 
 long voyage. The monotony, the dreariness, the scarce- 
 ness of fresh water, with bad provisions, along the burn- 
 ing shores of Western America, were severely felt, and 
 we only found ourselves reviving when the fresh and 
 chilling breezes met us off Vancouver Island. 
 
 Several pieces of broken timber, rugged trees, drift 
 wood, and kelp- weed, told us we were fast approaching 
 the land ; and the joy of all at seeing it was beyond 
 
 * Cook, who passed 
 lieved in the existence 
 says, "Inthislat., 48" 
 Strait of San Juan de 
 itself to our view, nor 
 isted." This, I think, 
 cumnayigator being in 
 
 here some years after its discovery, disbe- 
 of these straits. To use his own words, he 
 N., geographers have placed the pretended 
 Fuca, but nothing of that kind presented 
 is it probable that any such thing ever ex< 
 is the only instance of that celebrated cir- 
 error. 
 

 168 
 
 NATIVES. 
 
 description. The sea abounded in whales, lasliiug and 
 spouting in every direction. Slioala of porpoises, fol- 
 lowed by birds, are close after our wake, and the land 
 appears covcrel with a dense forest of pine-trees. The 
 moment the wind fell light, wo were visited by a hand- 
 some canoe, having eight natives, with a chief, bringing 
 fish, bear-skins, squid, &c., all of which they readily 
 bartered for knives, tobacco, and raint, &c. I quite 
 gained the friendship of the chief by daubing his £ace all 
 over with colours cf red, white, and black, giving him 
 (to us) a most hideous appearance ; but when shown his 
 face in a looking-glass, ho was delighted, frantic with 
 joy. They all wished to be painted the same way. His 
 arms and body were co\ered with "friendly marks," 
 which are lumps of flesh bitten out or cut with sharp 
 shells* by h\& friends; there were seven or eight such 
 marks on him. We very much feared they would be 
 performing their friendly actions on us, so we prepared 
 to repel them. We found they were very loose and 
 filthy in their manner- no pride at all about them— 
 and wear a plain rug thrown over their shoulders, which 
 is cast off altogether at intervals. They existed, while 
 alongside, on long strips of squid, which they " bolted," 
 after chewing a short time, without a wink or struggle. 
 Later in the day, a smaller canoe came off with dried 
 salmon and berries, rather sour and unpalatable. ' 
 
 After getting fairly inside the Straits of Juan de 
 Fuca, and anchoring among a fleet of thirty-eight canoes, 
 
 * Kings, xviii. 28. % , •* " ' 
 
\ 
 
 FLATTKItY JACK. 
 
 100 
 
 each having two, three, or four salmon on board, wo 
 were vi&ited by a personage calling himself " Flattery 
 Jack," who had been spoken of by former voyagers. 
 He said, *'Man' war ship cloosh" (good); "No cock- 
 shittle man war," that is, they would not break or harm 
 lis. This " Flattery Jack " drew a smile from every- 
 one, from some roars ! lie had on his body a long red 
 Yankee coat, a very taut pair of trousers, a black satin 
 waistcoat strained in by one well-fingered button and 
 hole, and covering all (and most objectionable things 
 too) was a very much abused " four-and-nine" hat. He 
 gave us a little information about a Irigale and steamer 
 in Puget Sound, and while doing so, unfortunately for 
 him, the ** Flattery Jack" arrivetl, with hi.; retinue. 
 
 This ** Jack " was a merry, good-humoured, round- 
 laced little fellow, full of fun, and spoke very good Eng- 
 lish ; his rig was ** made to order," but the trousers were 
 a little short, and the hat had seen its best days. The 
 first Jack brought his squaw with him, the first female 
 we had seen ; they are fairer than the men, but equally 
 careless of person, and loose in dress and manner.* A 
 native here purchases his squaw (or wife) for a blanket 
 or a shirt, and is allowed to have as many as he pleases ; 
 and they lend them one to another in the most friendly 
 and accommodating manner. ; x ! 
 
 The canoes with the salmon, &c., came alongside, 
 after cheering and shouting while the anchor and cable 
 was let go, and the sails furling. For an old pocket- 
 
 * It would be impossible to tell the original colour of these 
 people, as they are always smeared with oil and dirt, but I should 
 assume it to be that of a dirty copper kettle. 
 
170 
 
 FLAT-HEADS. 
 
 handkerchief, an old knife, or a few brass buttons, you 
 could get a salmon ** all alive," weighing on an average 
 twenty-six pounds. A salmon that you would pay £1 
 for in London, you can get here for a few strips of 
 tobacco or an old razor that would never cut again. 
 Nothing now but salmon boiled, salmon fried, salmon 
 souscdy is heard and eaten all day long. If we starved 
 during our long and tiresome sea cruise, we are now cer- 
 tainly making up for it. We passed up to Victoria, the 
 Hudson Bay settlement on Vancouver Island, and lay in 
 a calm and peaceful bay, surrounded by a dense forest, 
 with shrubs and evergreens down to the water's edge, at 
 the feet of the lofty mounts Baker and Olympus, per- 
 petually covered with snow. 
 
 Here v/e had visits from whole families; and these 
 tribes are called " Flafc-heads," from the fact of their 
 heads being squeezed into a conical form when young, 
 in the following manner : — When the child is four or 
 five weeks old a case is made of the bark of a tree in 
 the shape intended, or most prefeiTed, for the head ; in 
 this it is placed ; the child is then put into a cradle made 
 of wood, exactly resembling a butcher-boy's tray, and 
 laced down with strips of bark to prevent its moving or 
 shuffling off this "night-cap"; on the head are then 
 placed weights, bags of sand, on the parts which require 
 compression most, to bring it into the required and ap- 
 proved form. This operation is kept up for years, and 
 then the head assumes the enviable form of a " Life 
 Guardsman's hat." It is curious to see the mothers, 
 when the children cry, jig them about in these trays. 
 In many, this compression prodi::ces squint, which is con- 
 
JACK MURDERED. 
 
 m 
 
 ons, you 
 average 
 pay £I 
 strips of 
 t again, 
 salmon 
 i starved 
 low cer- 
 )ria, the 
 d lay in 
 > forest, 
 Jdge, at 
 
 IS, 
 
 per- 
 
 these 
 tf their 
 young, 
 four or 
 tree in 
 ad; in 
 emade 
 r> and 
 ing or 
 
 then 
 Bquire 
 id ap- 
 3, and 
 'Life 
 thers, 
 trays. 
 
 con- 
 
 sidered beautiful ! And many children are made idiots 
 from the distortion and compression of the brain. 
 When I first saw the Chinese children undergoing the 
 painful and tormenting " operation for small feet,"* and 
 the Javanese infant, having all bauds clapped on its 
 nose to flatten it, immediately when born, I thought it 
 cruel, but this far exceeded anything I have witnessed. 
 The children never look healthy; and tears are con- 
 stantly running from their eyes, whicli are painfully 
 tender. 
 
 There is an old saying, of a '* dog's tail curling so 
 tight that he cannot pat his hind legs to the ground ;" 
 and of a young lady screwing her hair so tight in papers, 
 that slic could not shut her eyes to sleep ; but I can 
 really say, that I have seen these children's heads so 
 tightly compressed, that a squint is thereby produced. 
 
 One morning we heard, to our surprise, that our good- 
 tempered " Jack Flattery " was no more ! He had been 
 basely murdered for the sake of a blanket, on his passage 
 across the straits, after bartering his other skins. He 
 was attacked and stabbed in the back, in presence of all 
 his family and several wives. The natives are permitted 
 to kill one another for any individual crime (by their 
 chiefs) ; but, should the person miss his aim, and the 
 other escape, the former tribe rush on him and murder 
 him on the spot ; on the contrary, should he kill him, 
 he is considered a great warrior. Such is the state of 
 barbarism around us. 
 
 '*' The smaller the feet of the Chinese, the flatter the nose of 
 the Javanese, and the more conical the head of the Cowitchins, 
 the more attractive and beautiful the possessor. Truly, " travel- 
 lers see strange things ! " 
 
172 
 
 RESCUE FROM STARVATION. 
 
 Squirrel-hunting, puftin-shooting, as well as snipe 
 and duck, &c., were our principal amusements j and in 
 passing through the wood of Vancouver and the smaller 
 islands, we could not but be struck at the lofty and mag- 
 nificent cedar, pine, oak, and cypress trees, and the 
 blossoms of the yellow laburnum scenting the air; every 
 slope and undulation was a lawn and natural garden, 
 studded with the wild pl'im, gooseberry, currant, straw- 
 berry, and wild onion. Long grass and clover inter- 
 mingled the soil, rich in the extreme, and would grow 
 anything and everything. 
 
 On one of these occasions, when we had been shooting, 
 and venturing farther than perhaps it was prudent to do, 
 I was one day overcome with exhaustion, and had nearly 
 been compelled to give up. But before I narrate this 
 adventure, it will be proper to describe one that pre- 
 ceded, and from which there was very little hope of a 
 return. 
 
 One of the young officers had been out alone, and his 
 not returning caused great anxiety; for we already 
 knew that the tribes were treacherous, particularly the 
 Sokes, Tsclallums, and Cowitchins. All, of course, set 
 out in search. Boats were sent along the coast, firing 
 great guns, which was also continued on board the 
 vessel. All day passed, and our search was vain ; but 
 we did not yet despair. Another twenty-four hours was 
 also passed unsuccessfully, and now serious hopes were 
 entertained for his safety. A party of Indians were sent 
 out, and about nine at night they found him, in a weak 
 and helpless state, und'^r a tree, on the top of a snowy 
 mount. The Indians had given up their search about 
 
ANOTHER. 
 
 173 
 
 eight in the evening ; but the chief or leading man said 
 " he would go a little further," and, after proceeding for 
 a few minutes, he found him. On coining on board, it 
 appeared to us as if he had risen from the dead. He 
 said he had lost his way, and for the iirst night and day 
 took refuge in a tree, where many wild animals came 
 and " yelled " at him. Not being able to support him- 
 self any longer, and the beasts having departed, he came 
 down and laid on the fern quite exhausted, and gave up 
 all his hopes, until seen by the Indians, who deserve 
 much praise for their instinct and perseverance. The 
 last eighteen hoiu^ he lived on a bird that he had shot, 
 eating it raw, but could obtain no water. Another hour, 
 and he must have perished ; certainly that night, if not 
 found. My misadventure was nearly the same — hardly 
 so serious. I had got into a swamp among rushes, duck 
 shooting, and in my anxiety had got too far, without 
 thinking how I was to return. The mud and water war» 
 above my knees, which rendered it tiresome to walk, and 
 the rushes far above my head. When I began to get 
 tired, 1 then thought of returning, but on looking round 
 I could see no opening — nothing but sky over my head, 
 nothing to guide me I After wandering about for some 
 time in search of an opening, I became quite exhausted. 
 The evening was fast closing in. My lips were parched 
 with thirst I was compelled to keep my feet going in 
 new places, to avoid sinking se f^r that I could not 
 recover myself I could see no place of retreat. I was 
 on the point of laying my shot-belt and gun on one side 
 and giving up all, when I made one more effort, and 
 struggled to a more firm footing, where I rested, and 
 
174 
 
 A SCHOOLFELLOW. 
 
 ii 
 
 
 from thence escaped. Oh ! I shall never forget the feeling 
 of that moment, when spiritless, and all hope seemed 
 gone, and T. was fast sinking. When I looked up, and 
 saw nothing but the blue sky overhead, and the rushes 
 obstructing everything like a guide, the dreadful thought 
 of starvation flashed across me ; in an instant all I ever 
 knew, all who were near and dear to me, were before 
 me ; every passage and every circumstance in my life 
 fled before me like a dream. The feelings are almost 
 indescribable. None can know them but those who 
 have experienced them ! 
 
 To-day I was agreeably astonished at receiving a note 
 from a very old and much-esteemed schoolfellow, who 
 was then about seventy miles distant from me. He says, 
 " I send this scratch in the boat that takes you unfor- 
 tunate fellows your * grub ' (sheep and potatoes). I 
 intended at first coming down, but having been so long 
 in harbour, am afraid to undertake so long and dangerous 
 a sea voyage. Moreover, having recently escaped the 
 perils by land and sea of a two months' cruise through 
 the Oregon, I do not like tempting a mercifu! Provi- 
 dence too much." He says, " I have turned into a com- 
 plete savage, and have not an idea above a blanket." 
 He also adds, ** You should have been at ' our races ' 
 yesterday ; everything complete, even to the Punch and 
 Judy show ;" and he ends with saying, ** Give my love to 
 that sweet girl at Victoria :" and then a P.S., in which, 
 in a truly Irish way, he says, " I have a picture of your 
 ship in a gale of wind, and it is the principal ornament 
 in my cabin. I've just got room for another in a cor- 
 responding first chop rosewood frame. Another would 
 look so well I" 
 
GRAVES. 
 
 175 
 
 There is a small island at the entrance of Victoria 
 Harbour, on which all the surrounding tribes bury their 
 dead in this manner : — When a man dies, he is taken to 
 this island, with his canoe and all lelonging to him. The 
 canoe is hauled up on the island, the body laid in it, and 
 all his goods and chattels, such as his musket, salmon 
 spear, bow and arrows, fishing lines, pots, kettles, and 
 even the square wooden bowl he drank out of, are laid 
 by his side, covered over with mats, pieces of timber, 
 and large stones. Several canoes, with their late owners, 
 were mouldering away on this island. Several we saw, 
 also, on the forked branches of trees, at almost every 
 bend of the river.' 
 
 A deformity is .lever seen, the parents destroy them the 
 moment of birth, but we frequently meet natives with 
 several joints of their fingers gone ; on inquiring, it was 
 ascertained that it is customary to express grief for the 
 death of a relative by some corporea,! suffering, and that 
 the usual mode was to lose two or more joints of each 
 finger! ' * 
 
 "We had now passed round the straits, having anchored 
 in those beautiful harbours, Port Discovery, Dungeness, 
 and Port Townshend, either capable of holding the 
 British fleet, with some of less capabilities on Vancouver 
 Island, Esquimault, Port Albert, Victoria, San Juan, 
 Becher Bay, Soke Inlet, and now anchor where first 
 we stayed on entering the straits. Many canoes again 
 
 * The natives consider it an ill omen ever to mention the names 
 of those departed, and never do so; they will never touch anything 
 belonging to the dead, and they fancy the spirit departs into 
 animals, such as deer, bears, &c. 
 
176 
 
 A TENDER MESSAGE. 
 
 come alongside, and we find Flattery Jack, or King 
 George's tribe (who was murdered), preparing to go to 
 war with the " Tsclallums," to avenge the death of their 
 chief. They say " they intend stealing on them during 
 the night, first shooting them and then cutting their 
 heads off." . . . They must use some strange stratagem 
 to effect this, as the Tsclallums exceed them far in 
 numb^s. In a bay, near this anchorage, the seine 
 was hauled, and as one of the men observed, it was a 
 "miraculous draft." Turbot, cod, and soles in abun- 
 dance ; it was not the season for herrings, nor place for 
 salmon. 
 
 There was but one game that I saw the natives amuse 
 themselves with, but they are very fond of gambling. 
 As I was passing in a great hurry at the moment, I 
 cannot tell the process, but it is with seven pieces of 
 stick and two deer's teeth. I was told it was their only 
 game of amusement or pastime ; they play at " pitch 
 and toss" also, for blankets, furs, and even their wives, 
 merely at the chance of turning up one side or the 
 other— head or tail. 
 
 *; 
 
 We were about to leave the straits, but I had one 
 more duty to perform for an old schoolfellow ; and it 
 will be remembered, that he particularly requested in 
 his note that I would, the first opportunity, " give his 
 love to that sweet creature at Victoria." Now, this was 
 a very pleasing duty, I had no doubt, but at the same 
 time one that I was not prepared for, nor did I know to 
 whom I was to deliver so affecting and tender a message. 
 
MARY. 
 
 177 
 
 However, do it I must, as I had promised. We were 
 at anchor off the very place. I devoted a forenoon to this 
 duty. I dressed in my best (which was not at any 
 time very attractive), and I polished up my hair, teeth, 
 and boots, with a little more than usual care, for, it must 
 be added, I intended to put in one word for my school- 
 fellow, and two for myself, when — withering uuder the 
 gaze '>f this lovely object — I set out with the very best 
 possible intentions, not knowing, however, the exact 
 residence. I went to the rendezvous, where I knew I 
 should meet some person who spoke English. I was 
 right. I commenced gently, to prevent suspicion, re- 
 marking on the weather first, which mostly all people 
 do on meeting, then the briskness of trade (of which I 
 knew very little), and finally, coming to the point, 
 asking if he knew where the object of my search 
 resided? He quickly answered in t^e affirmative, and 
 at the same time pointed to the house. How I should 
 know her ? was my next question, how she " rigged," 
 and her style ? (so that I may recognise her if I passed 
 her) with many other very inquisitive and impertinent 
 inquiries. A final query finished the conversation, and 
 nearly finished me, for, to my utter amazement, he 
 said, "8he is my sister.'* I thought I would have 
 shrunk into my boots ; my feelings may be imagined, 
 but impossible to describe. I hurried from the scene, 
 declaring, within myself, never again to enter that 
 stockade. Constant visions of the big brother were 
 before me. Rifles, bullets, scalps, all passed within 
 my imagined gaze, and it was some time before I was 
 able to shake ofif the surprise that I at that moment felt. 
 
 N 
 
17S 
 
 SCALPING 
 
 I broke my word ! A few days afterwards found me in 
 the presence of her for whom I hud so nearly suffered 
 (in mind if not in body). All those, however, were more 
 than repaid by one glance from the light blue eyes of 
 Mary, who dresses also in light blue, dances the polka, 
 is not at all vain, and far from being proud, as I on one 
 occasion found her very dexterously passing a warm flat- 
 iron over a neat and well-bleached chemisette. A few 
 pleasant evenings were passed at that house, and I 
 must acknowledge forgetting all about my schoolfellow's 
 kind and tender message ! 
 
 Before finally saying adieu to the straits, in which we 
 have passed a most glorious three months, I must con- 
 clude with an incident that occurred which must have 
 astonished the numbers of natives who had come along- 
 side to say good-bye before our final departure. We 
 were all assembled in the - gangways, ports, nettings, 
 and chains, during the dinner-hour, which was generally 
 appropriated for bartering. Sail made, and ready to 
 start the moment a breeze sprung up, we were chatting, 
 joking, and exchanging goods with the natives. Two 
 of ours, who were in the gangway port, attracted most 
 attention, as their goods were ** in the market " (beads 
 and fish-hooks). During their eagerness to obtain an 
 article they had purchased, one slipped his foot, and 
 accidentally passing his arm across the other's head, to 
 save himself, knocked his cap off into the canoe — his wig 
 ivaa in it ! Such a roar, such a scream, never was 
 heard; they all concluded he was "scalped"; and it was 
 some time before they were composed, and settled along- 
 side again, when they saw the ** scalp" replaced. They 
 
CRUISE OF THE CUTTER. 
 
 179 
 
 me in 
 
 Lift'ercd 
 
 e more 
 
 Byes of 
 
 polka, 
 
 on one 
 
 •m flat- 
 
 A few 
 
 and I 
 
 fellow's 
 
 lich we 
 ist con- 
 st have 
 } along- 
 e. We 
 ettings, 
 nerally 
 3ady to 
 latting, 
 . Two 
 d most 
 (beads 
 ain an 
 ot, and 
 lead, to 
 lis ivig 
 er was 
 it was 
 along- 
 They 
 
 understand "scalping," and it is practised at no great 
 distance from them ; but never having seen a wig, con- 
 cluded we were as expert as themselves ; it caused much 
 amusement and astonishment. This was onr finale; and 
 having sailed for San Francisco, arrived safe, passing 
 over the bar with a slashing breeze, without di[)ping our 
 " quarter-boats in the water/' as we v ere led to suppose 
 we should do. Two vessels of war were lying here, 
 Russian and American. 
 
 "the cruise of the cutter." 
 
 During the period that the ship remained in the 
 straits of Juan de Fuca, a boat expedition started for the 
 Oregon coast, and as many interesting occurrences took 
 place during this cruise, I must devote a leaf or two to 
 them. 
 
 The day the boats started was beautiful — beautiful 
 almost beyond description; no fog clouded the atmo- 
 sphere ; no winds agitated this lovely branch of the 
 Pacific ; the sun peeped occasionally between small 
 patches of cloud, lending a shade here and there, both to 
 the waters and to the rich foliage, quite charming. 
 
 The ship lay still and motionless; a more than usual 
 number of canoes visited from various parts; in one, 
 the largest, measuring forty-nine feet seven inches, could 
 be seen a **Taihe" (chief) of Neah bartering a quantity 
 of shells for a Galium female, who was no doubt to be- 
 come one of his wives (he had already two with him) ; 
 in another, a mother, carefully wandering over her 
 children's heads, pulling many very objectionable things 
 out of them, an amusement they delight in when they 
 
 N 2 
 
! 
 
 180 
 
 THE CUITER. 
 
 have nothing elso to occupy their time. "While cahnly 
 gazing on such unintellectual scenes, the shrill pipe and 
 hoarse cry of the boatswain was suddenly heard, 
 
 •' Away all boats* crews." 
 
 I was walking the deck in the zealous performance 
 of my forenoon watch, when the captain came up, to 
 whom I lifted my cap : " Young fellow," he said, ** get 
 ready to go away ; I intend giving you a bit of a twist 
 this time." 
 
 At eleven a.m., precisely, five boats started, having 
 previously ascertained that provisions and corresponding 
 liquids were in abundance for twice that period, con- 
 sisting of salmon, potatoes, and mutton, &c. 
 
 We were off ! but could not for some time imagine 
 where the two fine legs of mutton, which were hanging 
 in our mizen rigging, had come from, until one more 
 shrewd than the rest informed us that it was our poor 
 " old pet, Tom," who had been mercilessly slain 1 "Tom" 
 had got so fat that he *' had to be killed to save his 
 life." , :. .,,.,:,;.• , . 
 
 ** Tom" had been with us since leaving England ; he 
 had become quite a pet (sailors always have some pet or 
 other on board ship), and followed the men about the 
 deck lik3 a dog. " Tom" had been taught to smoke a 
 pipe, to drink grog, to chew tobacco, to eat shavings 
 and old quids of tobacco (an economical sheep), and 
 many a dull hour during an evening did Tom pass away 
 for his shipmates. He had now grown so fat that he 
 could with difficulty breathe ; the butcher's knife put an 
 
THE CUTTEU. 
 
 181 
 
 end to '* Tom," and his sorrowing Bhipmntes had to 
 deplore the loss of their amusing pet. 
 
 In the hurry and excitement we had scarcely dreamed 
 of its being Sunday, until, suddenly rounding an island, 
 a native in one of the fishing canoes was heard singing, 
 "Hias makooke saouche" (plenty salmon, buy), when 
 one of our witty marines observed, that it resembled 
 the ninety-eighth Psalm ; the truth of its being Sunday 
 only then flashed across us. 
 
 At noon, with a fair wind, the boats were passing 
 along the Oregon coast, thickly covered with wood, at 
 the foot of the rocky mountains, which were perpetually 
 capped with snow ; the wind, however, soon failed, and 
 the paddles (which had long since superseded oars) were 
 set to work. With these the men could sing and keep 
 time to their old tune, 
 
 " I've got a sixpence, a jolly, jolly, sixpence." 
 
 It was very late before the boats reached the first place 
 of rendezvous, and here we bivouacked for the night, in a 
 small stony bay, the water very shallow. The rain 
 awnings were spread, and the coppers lighted ; and as 
 the vivid sparks arose, they reminded me of those true, 
 yet spiritless lines, ^ - j* 
 
 "As the sparks fly upwards to the sky, 
 So man is bom to misery!" 
 
 From the shallow and rocky state of the bay the boats 
 could not land, and they were anchored off for the night 
 in deep water. 
 
182 
 
 TlIK CUTTER. 
 
 i, i 
 
 i 
 
 Morning dawned, and, if possible, more beautiful 
 than yesterday, which enabled us to beach the boats, and 
 take a refreshing plunge in the cool waters of the straits. 
 An early breakfast was finished, and dinner already 
 under weigh, although on'y eight o'clock. The cook of 
 the party was far above his elbows in flour and water, 
 and was relating rather an improbable "yarn," of his 
 having " seen weovils fly out from the inside of a pud- 
 ding after it had been a whole forenoon boiling in the 
 coppers." ** Yes," he says, " my word, when I broke the 
 * duff,' out flew the weovils." 
 
 About noon the " Callum" canoes began to surround 
 us, and when we reminded them of their murdering 
 King George (Flattery Jack) for the sake of a blanket, 
 they crossed themselves, and pointing to the sun, ex- 
 claimed, " Euklea," looking, at the same time, remark- 
 ably innocent, wishing to lead us to suppose they would 
 not have done it for worlds. 
 
 The morning following had scarcely dawned beforo 
 the wild caw of the crow and the gurgling notes of the 
 raven announced it was time to rise; a very short 
 interval elapsed before all hands were at work, some 
 preparing breakfast, others gathering fire-wood and 
 water for the coming day, while a few were performing 
 their ablutions at some icy stream which trickled from 
 the lofty Olympus, filtered by the crowded pines, 
 through which it rushes before reaching the sea. 
 
 During this day's progress we were overtaken by a 
 dense fog, such a fog as comes tumbling on you like a 
 wall, completely burying you in a mass of vapour. We 
 
THE CUTTER 
 
 183 
 
 endcavourocl to roach an anchoragf, but were conipelloil 
 at last to drop anchor in a miserably aliallow bay, afford- 
 ing no shelter, the rocks numerous, and the swell setting 
 in obliged us to anchor some distance from the shore, 
 and thuG had we to pass a night of misery and anxiety. 
 Rest I cannot call it, for, every moment expect- 
 ing to feel our boats bump on the rocks, which every- 
 where surrounded us, a good look out had to be kept 
 for these, as well as to avoid a surprise from the native 
 Callums, who we had now known to be treacherous. 
 Rain poured on us, but as the day broke, we perceived 
 our ship in the offing, which had already made out our 
 flotilla, but received orders to " proceed." 
 
 This night, however, we were fortunate in having a 
 small vessel to sleep on board, and really enjoyed a 
 night's slumber on a "soft plank," a luxury we had 
 not for four nights ; our dreams were but once dis- 
 turbed, by one of our own party (an Irish boy, of course), 
 who, sleeping in tlie same apartment, and frequently in 
 the habit of walking during the hours he should have 
 been snoring in his two yards of canvas, he has been 
 seen more than once performing most extraordinary and 
 really melancholy antics across the spirit-room hatch, 
 rolling himself up in his blanket, and cruising to sonio 
 out-of-the-way place, with other strange performances.. 
 At this time, during a moment of somnambulism, he swept 
 the table of all on it, among which was a large jug of 
 Mater, placed there expressly, by the thoughtfujness of 
 the steward, for "cooling coppers." This capsized all over 
 us, drenching some, frightening others, who, at least. 
 
184 
 
 THE CUTTER. 
 
 thought the vessel was goiog down in deep water. Miss 
 Romer (the actress) was absent, or the scene would have 
 b-^en complete. 
 
 After seven hours of refreshing sleep (barring the cold 
 water), we were oflf again on our interesting cruise. The 
 first part of the day was screened by a dense fog, which 
 compelled us to put into a small sandy bay, and there 
 amuse ourselves until it cleared. 
 
 Before noon, an hour was passed most loyally in 
 dressing our small fleet in all their gay colours, in 
 honour of the Royal Consort, Prince Albert's birthday ; 
 and our little flotilla, surrounded by a dense fog in a 
 snug bay, formed a scene quite novel and pleasing; 
 added to which were the blazing coppers, and the jolly 
 tars busily preparing their noon-day meal of mountains 
 of salmon, loads of spuds, and heaps of " duff." 
 
 After this, at noon-day, innocently yet loyally cele- 
 brating the nativity of his Royal Highness, we all 
 rambled into the dense forest, which was thickly 
 studded with trees and jungle, down to the water's edge. 
 
 The sun partly dissipated the fog, and again our 
 boats started for false Dungeness, and did not arrive 
 there till very late. 
 
 This evening terminated our week's exploring; all 
 were sorry it was about to conclude, for we had wished 
 it to continue another week, aye, a month. We were 
 kept in constant good humour by the number of meals 
 we had daily (from five to seven); no sooner had one 
 finished than it was time to commence the next. We 
 were no slaves to time, for when hungry, we fed ; when 
 thirsty, drank ; when tired, turned in ; and when re- 
 
THE CUTTER. 
 
 185 
 
 freshed, rose. What more could be desired ? The trip 
 was finished next day by crossing the straits to Victoria. 
 Provisions vrere had in abundance from the natives — 
 salmon, potatoes, and blackberries; and after all the 
 buttons had been bartered from our jackets, and our 
 shirts and pocket handkerchiefs were getting scai'ce, 
 then we learned to polish Brazilian dumps with brick- 
 dust, and by christening them "Pillison dollars,"* 
 obtained from the natives sufficient provisions for one 
 dollar to last the bo.>»t's crew a week I 
 
 * Pillison was the chief HucLson Bay trader; everything bear- 
 ing his name was good. 
 
i 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 BAN FRANCISCO — MOEMONS — WATERING-PLACE — A DESERTER — 
 AMUSINO BALI, — BARBAROUS MURDER — MONTERREY — CEDROS 
 ISLAND — SAN DIEGO — GRAVES — AN OLD FRIEND — MAGDALENA 
 BAY. 
 
 The towu, consisting of about thirty houses, including 
 tents, enclosed in stockades, lay on a level plain of a 
 dark brown sandy appearance, at the foot of a gentle 
 slope, inhabited by Americans and Mormons. The 
 latter are a sect whose religion and customs are some- 
 what strange and remarkable. They are at liberty to 
 have, two spiritual wives and one temporal, and, if the 
 " spirit should so lead," a man may take another's wife 
 unto himself. All dreams, by either sex, are to be 
 realised, upon pain of dismissal should they fail to 
 do so. 
 
 Here we first learned that Mexico had surrendered to 
 American forces, after killing 5,000 Spaniards; that 
 war had been declared some time ; and that the place we 
 were now at acknowledged the "stars and stripes," 
 making all the Spanish community prisoners. 
 
 Anchored the ship in three atho^is, muddy ground ; 
 
SAUSALITO. 
 
 m 
 
 and I mention this to show what a transition took place 
 some short period afterwards. 
 
 Afterwards went across to Sausalito, to complete with 
 water, and while doing so our guns were not idle ; quail, 
 deer, rabbits, and partridges, all fell before them. The 
 plumage of the Californian crested quail is exquisite. 
 
 In this retired and secluded watering-place lives a 
 farmer, who can boast of having a daughter the most 
 beautiful girl in San Francisco Bay. Her mother 
 Spanish, her father English. She was engaged to be 
 married to a Mexican merchant, but unfortunately he 
 had been killed in the late afiray with the Americans, 
 and she was now mourning, her hair brought close 
 over the forehead. In the same dwelling lived a man, 
 enjoying all the privileges and clime of a Spaniard, who 
 had actually been a deserter from a vessel of war, in 
 which one of the officers had been his shipmate some few 
 years since, and who recognised him immediately, but 
 permitted him still to enjoy his Spanish retreat. 
 
 We were on the eve of starting, when the captains of 
 a few whale ships in the port informed us that it was 
 their intention ** to give the Britishers a ball " on board 
 the largest whaler, in return for many services we had 
 rendered them. Not to have accepted it would have 
 been rude— poor pride ; and having assented, we received 
 formal invitations ; and as this was one of the most ori- 
 ginal and amusing entertainments I ever beheld, an 
 attempt at a description of it must find a place here. 
 
 The invitations were issued and delivered to the 
 " Britishers " by a rather weather-beaten third or fourth 
 mate, who was a little confused on delivery (and could 
 
 >^.*: 
 
188 
 
 AMUSING BALL. 
 
 not have known what they contained). The epistle 
 (which was very precisely written on half a sheet of 
 letter paper, when folded, had the corner turned down 
 and the wafer stamped with a button) ran thus : — 
 
 ** The committee of management of the U. S. whale 
 ships request the company of the steerage officers to an 
 entertainment, at nine p.m. this evening." 
 
 At noon, in honour of the occasion, the '' senior whale 
 ship " displayed colours of all naticis at her masthead, 
 and fired reduced charges from two small rusty-looking 
 guns. At this moment the aforesaid third or fourth 
 mate issued from his vessel, with the despatches carefully 
 wrapped in a sheet of hrown paper, and conveyed in a 
 two-oared boat, painted a light peargreen, borrowed 
 from the shore for this express purpose. 
 
 In the evening we all assembled at rather a fashion- 
 able hour, ten p.m., and were agreeably surprised to find 
 so many American, Spanish, and Sandwich Island 
 females, thinly clad in white and other coloured mus- 
 lins, dancing away with Spanish and Russian officers at 
 a great rate. The first dance was a quadrille (I hope I 
 shall be excused for entering into detail, but really all 
 was so truly original, it would be a pity to pass it over — 
 it would be a good thing lost). The master of the cere- 
 monies (of course) the chief officer of the ship. The fun 
 commenced I 
 
 I made a few acquaintances, stood on no ceremony, 
 and did not wait for an introduction, A delicate, pale- 
 faced American youth came up to me, and says, " I'm 
 Montressor I my governor is chief here. I guess you'll 
 like to see our ship. Calculate you'll fii\^ her a fiamer, 
 
AMUSING BALL. 
 
 189 
 
 and no flics. She can go twelve and six on u bowline, 
 and before the wind, she is .* Come on board to- 
 morrow — ask for Montressor ; I'm always in the cabin 
 when the governor's ashore." The moment I could get 
 him to stop, I assured him it would afford me much plea- 
 sure to see so fine a specimen of American architecture ! 
 The master of the ceremonies (whose nane I forget) was 
 very attentive, and repeatedly asked if I wished a part- 
 ner, to which 1 always assented. ** Come with me," he 
 says ; and, taking me face to face to a very pretty Ame- 
 rican, says to her, " Here, dance with this chap. This 
 ^irl will dance with you," turning to me. I asked if I 
 might hope to have the felicity, &c. After hesitating 
 some time, my fair charge drawled out, " What?" I re- 
 peated, if she would dance with me it would make me 
 the happiest of beings. She then appeared to catch the 
 word ** dance," and immediately replied, " Yes, sir." I 
 led my bashful fair one to the quadrille, and demanded 
 of a young curly-headed fellow, with a very pretty girl for 
 a partner, if he had a vis-a-via. " Yes, sir," says he, 
 ** here she is," taking up his partner's hand. I smiled ; 
 I could not help it ; and my chaise did the same. I 
 fancied it all very strange. All my flowery hinguage 
 was thrown entirely away, and I now began to talk 
 " plain" The quadrille formed. On my right was a tali, 
 thin messmate of mine, enjoying the company of an ex- 
 ceedingly fat American-Indian female, who was gaudily 
 dressed in a glazed furniture cotton, and a bright orange 
 kerchief around her nut-brown neck. Her slippers 
 were far gone (at the heels), and at every step went flip- 
 flop. I must not be personal with my worthy and philo- 
 * It would be impossible to mention this expression. 
 
190 
 
 AMUSINtJ BALL. 
 
 i '" 1 i 
 
 sophic messmate; but he and liis partner were tlio 
 happy gaze of the room, and caused many a smile. 
 
 Dancing commenced ; music by three fiddlers and a 
 nigger performer on the tambourine. No regard was 
 paid to figures, and very little to steps. Away we went, 
 every one as they thought best ; some ballancer, others 
 chainS'dea-dames, until the JinaUj when the wearer of 
 the white rosette called aloud for "order," when we 
 instantly obeyed, and were in our places alongside our 
 fair partners. The tune was " Yankee Doodle," but he 
 exclaimed, " Give us something lively — * Life let us 
 cherish.' " " Now, sirs," says he, " do what I tell you." 
 ** Now, ladies, stand still." " Gents, go round hand in 
 hand." *' Chase cross-trees." " Go where you like." 
 " Lead ladies to their seats." " Kiss hands." Thus 
 ended the most amusing, the most noisy quadrille, I ever 
 figux'ed in. The latter, " kiss hands," was the most 
 pleasant figure for some ; but others less fortunate 
 shammed bashful, and " couldn't do such a thing for 
 the world." 
 
 Mrs. Pele was above all others a character ; she was a 
 stout, fair-faced American (truly Yankee), wearing a 
 curious sort of a r ghtcap, and two false grey curls dang- 
 ling at each side of her face. " Sire," says she to one of 
 ours, as he was gazing round the room, as she thought, 
 for a partner, " Sire, 'ave you seen my gals ? " " Lucy," 
 she continued, " here's Jippers." The introduction was 
 over ; Jippers led Lucy to a cotillon. 
 
 I succeeded, after a great deal of persuasion, to gain 
 Mrs. P.'s hand at a quadrille, during which she gave a 
 long account of her " domestic happiness," taking care 
 
AMUSING BALL. 
 
 191 
 
 to frequently introduce the amiability and virtues of 
 " her gals," and to whom she played the piano hours 
 before breakfast. 
 
 Smily and his wife were a couple I cannot pass over. 
 She was dressed like a doll, and figured the Zamha 
 Cueca to perfection. He an Englishman, a prisoner 
 on parole, for taking part in the Mexican affair. Every 
 five minutes or oftoner lie would exclaim, at the very 
 top of his voice, "O my legl" and, limping as if some 
 one had stepped on a favourite corn, out he'd go, and 
 take a " modest quencher." 
 
 Supper was announced. The table (or whatever it 
 was) was laid between the fore and main masts, covered 
 with a lower studdingsail for a table-cloth, and which 
 contrasted well with the loads of pork and molasses, 
 gill and coffee, under which it groaned. The ladies were 
 seated. Mrs. P. looking out sharp for " her gals," 
 divided here and there by a " gent." It fell as usual to 
 my unfortunate lot to have a "Spanish partner," to 
 whom I could say nothing ; but I requested an appa- 
 rently respectable-lookiug chap (who w^is sharing more, 
 perhaps, than an equal portion of my fair partner's 
 glances) to ask her in Spanish if 1 could assist her to 
 anything on the table. " Oh," says he, " she'll look 
 out for herself, and when she has eaten enough she'll 
 stop." The ladies retired, and the gents fed. 
 
 I was fortunate in getting alongside my early pale- 
 faced acquaintance, who amused me with some very 
 original yarns, and the laughing produced assisted much 
 the digestive organs in the attack on the pork and gin. 
 lie says, after we had touched glasses and nobbed, ''You 
 
102 
 
 AMUSINn BALL. 
 
 ■ I 
 
 ! r, 
 
 must know I am the most drunkenest fellow in the * Ohio,' 
 but I never gets found out like the other chiips, and I'll 
 tell you how I do it ; when I comes up the side I shakes 
 myself and locks around, and I don't go up to the com- 
 manding officer and report myself, but I waits till he 
 cornea to me. I shakes myself again; and when ho 
 turns his back to go aft, I says, ' Come on board, sir/ and 
 am down the ladder Uke slick." 
 
 The " gents " fed off huge joints of pork, smeared 
 with molasses, and washed down with gin or coffee. The 
 dancing again became exciting, and the people excited — 
 and Spanish dances were intercepted by jigs and romps, 
 by the gents only 1 
 
 There were some pretty faces present, but one (as 
 is always the case) which attracted most attention. 
 " Mary " was the belle ; that simple and yet sweetest of 
 names, "Mary." Her face was pale, and innocence 
 could be traced in every expression of her countenance ; 
 but she could give a glance with her " light blue eyes " 
 that ran through you in an instant. She was dressed in 
 a " clear muslin " (I think the girls call it), and there 
 were no artificial means used to render the figure perfect. 
 Her foot, which was neat and small, was encased in a 
 primrose sandal, which did almost as much credit to the 
 maker as the wearer. On a head of glossy chestnut 
 hair, was entwined a wreath of snowdrops, which, during 
 one part of the dance (I think, " go where you please ") 
 was disarranged, and it fell to my lot to adjust it to " my 
 own taste," which she flattered me by saying " coincided 
 exactly with hers." 
 
 My next partner was an interesting young girl — a 
 
AMUSING BALL. H 
 
 198 
 
 mother ! — who nursed a fat, noisy, drivelling boy ; and 
 having prevailed on her to allow one of my good-tem- 
 pered and careful messmates to hold the young thing 
 while she danced, off we went, but at the fourth figure 
 the wretch screamed (my impatient friend must have 
 pinched it), and 1 lost my partner. Our conversation 
 was exceedingly interesting — principally on "teething;" 
 and when I told her I did not pity her, as I had five, 
 ** Well," says she, " I do pity your missis, for I have but 
 three." " All boys," says I ; " what a happy dispen- 
 sation ! " 
 
 After this dance the ladies retired to the captain's 
 cabin, to partake of negus and cake ; the remainder had 
 a song, " Sweet Home," ''River Ohio," &c. ; but the girls 
 remaining too long, we began to get impatient, when one, 
 more gallant than the rest, rushed below, and asked 
 *' Where the ladies were ? " *' They're a feedin', sire," says 
 Mrs. P. ; " and when they've a-done grubbin' they'll come 
 up." They soon again appeared, one after another, as 
 they came into the world, and the dancing became more 
 and more enlivening. Waltzing was now carried on in 
 style. Around the fiddlers, who were seated on the car- 
 penter's tool-chest, at the foot of the post supporting the 
 awning, the couples glided along swiftly and gracefully, 
 until down came heavily the "fat Spanish female." 
 Not a turn was taken after this. No one went to the 
 rescue. AU were convulsed, until exhausted, when some 
 exclaimed, " No bones broken," and off they went again. 
 
 Daylight now peeped in on our enjoyments, and, after 
 AjlnaZe, it was broad daylight. 
 
 I retired to the supper-room, where I found my 
 
 o 
 
104 
 
 llAUIIAIUUrM MUUni It. 
 
 pii1nfnoiiil,<|iiilnilliiHtratin^ nil lir litul told inn, Niivtrliml 
 out on iho ini<l(llo of t-lio suppor tiililo, rryin^ont, " \V\nn 
 tiu'kH nml Hlii'otRl" Wo inuvU^d ho whh potting tlio riliip 
 nl»ont. — "Lot j(o tho to' gtilliint howIiiM'H— lilo — nil 
 right, I *' I mw no nioro of him. Wo had not milod iniiny 
 dnys from hnr(» hofon^ wo honi'd that thi« unfortiuitito 
 ycning oH'u'iM'had hooii hnrharously mnrderod hy Imh honl'n 
 ori'w, nnd tho hody tin'own ovorhourd, on thoir paiwiigo 
 up tho Snommonto Kivor, whoro tho orow donort(Hl. 
 
 lV»ats woiv coiiHt^intly on tlui movo, taking tho wuiiriod 
 pnrtios on shoiv ; not iv ripplo waw on tho wntor ; and at tho 
 exact hour of oight T landed th(» lust Imat-load Bafoly, 
 singing, *' Wo won't go homo till morning I " and liaving 
 refused a profwing invitation from a Yankee, " half Heaw 
 over," *' to piu'tako of a (piencher to oonfirm our aninlga- 
 matioo, and strengthiMi the unity of friondHhi[) that 
 existed," I had only time to perform a hurried toilet 
 and keep the forenoon watoh I 
 
 On this "entertainment" no remark is neooflsary. It 
 was given with tho most friendly and hospitahle inten- 
 tions, and tho very fact of our not separating until 
 eight in the morning is a convincing proof of our having 
 enjoyed ourselves mucli I 
 
 *' Monterivy " was a s|>ot we had looked forward to 
 visiting from hefore leaving England. We had constant 
 visions of those evanescent beings, who como off in 
 white satin garments to welcome you to their 
 shores from that " lovely of loving places." On your 
 arrival on shore you were led to thoir homes to partake 
 of coflfee, Bweetoned only by a glance. When they 
 untied your mocassins, and laid warm water at your 
 
MONTKItllKY. 
 
 1% 
 
 fret, Jiucli were our dreaiiiH — iilaii I thoy were only droairiM, 
 ii(»t to l)u realiz(Mi, for wo found wo had Imcn drift«)d 
 Moino tniloH to the noiithwnrd of the port, nii ' it would 
 havocoHt too much tiuio to n-turn. Wi- could, howovor, 
 Hoo an Atnoriciui frigati^ whoHo happy crew were enjoy- 
 ing no (h)ubt theHo drearnH of ouih. 
 
 Wo arrived and nnchortu! at Cadrm Inland, the most 
 doHolate, harrun bloi^k of voloiniR eruption iinaginahio, 
 pansin^ the Hinall and unimportant towns of Han Dio^o 
 and St. Quintin. At thu fonnor the Muxicans had riHon 
 on the Ainuricansy shot a captain, and cut the throaUi of 
 forty otliurB. At the; latter wo had much amuRcmont, 
 fishing, (thooting, &c. A cod fish wan caught 104thn 
 weight; and hares, quail, and duck, fell hcforo the 
 itportamen. 
 
 At this sunhurnt rock two graves were found, in very 
 secluded spots, one of John Sinclair Brown, aged 
 twenty-six, who was drowned from the ship " Harriet," of 
 
 Liverpool| on the , 1819. The other of Justin 
 
 Finch, aged twenty, who de[)arted this life on board the 
 ship *' Shakespeare," of London, 1819. "They rest in 
 peace." 
 
 These head-stones were brought on board and re- 
 painted. In the evening we were surprised and de- 
 lighted to see our old friend who gave us the " enter- 
 tainment" at San Francisco coming into the anchorage. 
 We sent all boats to tow him as the wind fell light, and 
 then had a jovial dinner together, when we talked over 
 all our pleasant evenings again and again ! 
 
 2 
 
li 
 
 1! 
 
 ■t i- 
 
 • > .> 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 MAZATLAN. 
 
 MAZATLAN — THE lUY — AM. IW AHMH — A LIF.nTKITANT LOST — TOWIf 
 — TF.nnY o'kooKK — HAN ni.AH— MOaQltrrOKSANI) HAND-FMEH — ■ 
 TAl'TAIN TAKION PUISONKU — lUtLMCTIN — NAHUOW KHCAPE — 
 GLOOMY DKATII — ACAlTLi-O — KOHT HAN CAUI,OH — cnHfOTTS 
 VlSlTOns — HHAUK'hVKTIM — ClIUIHTMAHDtNNKll — THF.IIUllNINO 
 18ALC08 — KAinHqrAKB — THE NEW YEAR — PANAMA AND 
 TAnOOA — NroilT ON BUOUE — A LOVELY CIIILENO — VT IXL 
 ISLAND — TIORR HIIAIIK — SPANIHII BALL — THE ADMIRaL — 
 QIUMD FUNCION — PAYIA — THE MAN OF QALWAT— CALLAO. 
 
 ■I «■■. 
 
 ;i ■; .! 
 
 |il. 
 
 \ .;>. 
 
 Mazatlan was our next point of destination, and 
 where we anchored in safety, calling;, however, at Mag- 
 dalena Hay, wliero hare shooting occupied our attention, 
 some having bat^ged six during ii day's sport. Mazatlan 
 is as picturesque a bay as nature ever formed, islands 
 covered with low green shrubs, purple masses of smooth 
 rock bursting forth, having large snow white rocks be- 
 tween, the long ground-swell from «he Gulf of Cali- 
 fornia dashing its foam far above their tops ; the town at 
 the head of the Iny, composed of neat whitewashed 
 buildings, relieved l>y groves of cocoa-nut trees, with 
 ripe brown nuts ui der their shade. 
 
 The people are all in arms expecting the Americans, 
 and no person retires to his bed without his gun or 
 
 11 
 •11 
 
NAN lU.AH 
 
 1 97 
 
 pistol under liis pillow. Not ten days since they 
 had a HkinniHh with a corvettf^s boats, which thuy 
 completely ropcllod and drove od'; and, from what I can 
 seoof tlie Htrf<'tfl, there will be dcHperato fighting if thoy 
 como to close (jiiarters. 
 
 Wo are at anchor close to the spot where, only, a few 
 days since, u lientenant of nn English frigate was 
 drowned in the rollers, deeply and desrrvedly regretted. 
 
 The town is pretty, and rather extensive, superior in 
 every way to Panama, Cullao, &c. }3ut thousands of 
 residents had already departed consequent on the war, and 
 it was therefore a little dull. The shops, mostly l*arisian 
 and German, are on an elegant scale, and made one fancy 
 when he saw ** Mons. Beville, Tailor, from l*aris," that 
 he was in New Bond-street Everything was to be had 
 here, as Jack says, from a " cambric needle to a bower 
 anchor." Beds were scarce ; and a good skittle-alley 
 where, for exercise and to avoid the heat of the sun, many 
 an hour was spent 
 
 On sailing from Mazatlan we passed close under the 
 stern of an old friend, where we backed our main top- 
 sail, while the band playorl *' Teddy O'Rooke's the boy, 
 sirs," from as happy a ship as flies the pendant of her 
 Majesty I We filled, and waved adieu 1 
 
 At San Bias water was completed, and any unfortunate 
 mid, who has had the ill-luck to be in charge of a watering 
 party there, will never forget it. The heat is intolerable, or 
 the rain pours. During the day the almost invisible 
 sand flies prey on you, and in the morning and evening 
 the mosquitoes; when one goes the other comes. " Watch 
 and watch ;" you cannot go into the water to avoid them, 
 

 ii 
 
 ii 
 I 
 
 198 
 
 MOSQUITOES— SAND FLIES. 
 
 for in the fresh lagoon are alligators, and in the salt- 
 water sharks, both alike hungry. In vain do you rub 
 your face, hands, and feet all over v,ith lime juice, 
 every trip you make ; in vain do you i^ake your necker- 
 chief and tie it over your face, cutting two small holes 
 to see through ; it is all to no purpose, they will penetrate 
 anything. Your boots, your blanket-frock, where the 
 mosquito cannot insert its proboscis from its size, 
 the sand-fly will find out. You rub, you scratch, you 
 irritate, you make sore every part of your body, although 
 you have declared a thousand times you will not touch 
 a bite, but let them '' bite on." You cannot resist. I 
 have on many occasions not known my own boat's crew, 
 they have been so disfigured, and many temporarily 
 blind ; on one occasion I did not know my watchmate. 
 It is really pitiable in some, and no severer test can a 
 person's philosophy of temper be put to than to send him 
 a " few trips '* in the watering boat. The most amiable, 
 the most patient, the most enduring, will give way under 
 it. The newest comer has the most attention paid him, 
 they follow you off to the ship in myriads each trip, 
 and heartily do you pray when water is completed. 
 
 It will be seen,- when perusing rny journal, that the 
 whole coast of Mexico was in a state of terror of the 
 Americans, who they expected hourly at each and every 
 port to bombard them. This sometimes caused a question 
 and delay on our part, for it was difficult for the 
 Mexicans to tell English from Americans, and on one of 
 these occasions we were nearly suffering a severe loss. 
 
 In a small bay near Acapulco we had occasion to 
 anchor, and where not a living creature appeared to be 
 
CAPTAIN TAKEN I'lllSONER. 
 
 199 
 
 Size. 
 
 located — no house, or anything that would indicate a 
 native's residence. Three or four boats landed with men 
 and officers, on various duties, but no sooner had they 
 entered the bush than four or five hundred Mexican 
 soldiers, with loaded muskets and bayonets fixed, rushed 
 out and took them prisoners, marching them to :: shed 
 inland; and hauling the boats up dry on the beach. They 
 were mistaken for Americans, and all means failed to 
 persuade the Governor that we were I'eally English. 
 This was a most unpleasant predicament to be placed in, 
 and a despatch was at once sent away to the Governor of 
 Acapulco, who is the senior ofliccr ; this, howe\ er, would 
 cause some delay. We were allowed to comnuuiicate 
 with the "prisoners" from the ship once a (f.iy, and it 
 was curious to see the bulletin daily brought on board: 
 
 Id day. The Governor is reported " very drunk," 
 and it is not known what he may do during his fits of 
 distraction. 
 
 2nd day. Governor a little more sober ; his family 
 arrive from Sacatago, and express a ^uish to see the shii). 
 
 P.M. The Governor says, '* that if a favourable answer 
 does not not come soon from Acaj)ulco, he will be com- 
 pelled to shoot them all." '* How can 1 release you ?" 
 says he ; *' if I do, my troi)|)s here will say you are 
 Arrsricans. 1 shall be marched off to Acapulco, im- 
 prisoned, and shot. 
 
 Srd day. Things getting very serious. All thtj 
 prisoners were marched to-day to a spot where a i)it wa« 
 dug (intended as a general grave), and overhanging it 
 the branch of a tree, where the Commandant told ihein 
 all they were to be hung, and then buried beneath. 
 
200 
 
 A GLOOMY DEATH. 
 
 4tth day. The men all came aft to-day to request to 
 be allowed to *' cut out," and rescue their captain and 
 officers; this was, however, impossible, because it was 
 declared by the Commandant, " that at the first sign of 
 an attempt to land, or a boat leaving the ship at night, 
 all on shore would be sacrificed ; " and he meant it too. 
 
 5th day. Late in the evening 180 more troops, " The 
 iZeguZars," arrive as a reinforcement. 
 
 Gth day. An order from the Govornor of Acapulco 
 anives ordering **the immediate release of all the English 
 prisoners," a severe reprimand to the Commandant, his 
 immediate recall to Acapulco, and the sergeant who 
 saved all their lives to be acting Governor ; for I forgot 
 to mention, on our first landing, the Mexicans prese/itt d 
 their arms, and were going to fire at once en is, , =1 
 the sergeant instantly stopped them; he was now 
 rewarded. 
 
 They were al? a little disappointed at seeing us embark, 
 for preparations had been made that we should be hung 
 on the morrow. Some went so far as to touch the 
 Captain's jacket, and say in Spanish, **This is mine 
 to-morrow; " another bespoke his cap, and all had pitched 
 on some part of the uniform as relics. A Mexican 
 officer appeared sorely disappointed; he had travelled 
 three successive days to see them shot. Ladies had also 
 come a long distance from the interior to witness the 
 pleasant ceremony of hanging or shooting a jovial Irish 
 captain and his amiable followers. They all came off 
 very du1;y and very fatigued, having been one week under 
 a shed. -. 
 
 Again death, gloomy death, visits our expedition, and 
 
ACAPULCO. 
 
 201 
 
 we ise one of our most amiable young cadets of disease 
 of the lungs, brought on by sleeping in the open air at 
 night He was buried in an untrodden corner of this 
 bay, 'neath the shade of a bread-fniit tree. How true it 
 is, that *' man hath but a short t'me to live, and is full 
 of misery : he cometh up, and is cut down like a flower ; 
 he fleeth as it were a shadow, as a tale that is told." 
 
 We then sail for Acapulco ; this was the great 
 rendezvous of the buccaneers in days gone by, and 
 many a richly-laden galleon had cast anchor where we 
 now are — a snug land-locked bay, with Fort St. Carlos 
 frowning over us on our right, the watering-place on the 
 left, and the once rich and famous town at che head of 
 the bay. The Governor made '' thousands of apologies" 
 for his brother oflRcer, who "he intended to place in 
 Fort San Carlos, and eventually making an example of 
 him by shooting or hanging." 
 
 Sevsral visitors of note came on board, as it was a rare 
 occasion to see an English ship of war at anchor here ; 
 many came more for the curiosity of seeing those men 
 who were to be shot (for our fame had gone abroad) than 
 to see the vessel. "We had ** cavalry officers" and 
 army officers in ** plain clothes" ; short green camlet 
 jackets, tall white hats, taut trowscrs, no stockings, 
 and Jemima boots, completed the costume of an <* army 
 officer " — in mufty I 
 
 At midnight we were all roused up by screams and 
 shrieks a short distance from where wd lay, and were 
 just in time to hear, **0h I Oh 1 my God ! " •* Lord save 
 my soul ! " A boat was at once lowered and sent to the 
 spot ; nothing could be seen I An incorrigible character. 
 
202 
 
 SHARKS VKTIM. 
 
 i I: I 
 
 m 
 
 IB': 
 
 i 
 
 ? ii 
 
 ! 
 
 who had been a prisoner some time on board, lowered 
 himself down from one of the ports near where he waa 
 secured and endeavoured to swim on shore, but was 
 taken by a shark, and disappeared directly afler we had 
 heard his last words. All next day his body was dragged 
 for, but could not be found. The bay is alive with 
 sharks, and it is to be presumed he was soon torn to 
 pieces. What an awful manner for a being to be 
 ushered, in the midst of sin, to the presence of his 
 Maker I 
 
 A Christmas dinner had been prepared — a substantial 
 one — and, as it was our first favourable one together, 
 ve intended to do justice to it. It was a lovely morning. 
 V TO enchanted with the pleasing scene presented 
 by L .- burning Isalcos mountains, each one forming a 
 perfect cone of itself, many in active volcanic eruption, 
 and standing 10,500 feet above us ! The horizon 
 becomes hazy, the barometer falls, a gale comes on, fore- 
 sail, fore and main toj)sails are split, and all have to be 
 shifted; the sea rose, the boats were hoisted "in- board," 
 and we lay to in almost a hurricane under storm stay- 
 sails, and in this dilemma we eat our Christmas dinner — 
 a turkey flying here, a round of beef there, marmalade 
 tarts in the scuppers, a bottle of champagne pitched 
 into your neighbour's lap, and thus, ** happy-go-lucky, " 
 we went through the form of the day, crossing the Gulf 
 ot " Tehuantepic." 
 
 Bodegas, a small town at the foot of the burning 
 Isalcos, was passed; and here we distinctly felt three 
 shocks of earthquake. It shook the ship, and all imagined 
 she had run on shore. Sounded, and found 38 fathoms. 
 
 ! 
 t 
 
NIGHT ON SHORE. 
 
 203 
 
 I 
 
 On now year's day wc were off San Salvador, which 
 city is situated on a ridgo between two burning 
 mountains. Near this spot we saw the old year out and 
 new year in, with much noise and merriment. 
 
 Realejo, Cardon, and other smaller towns, were in their 
 turns passed, famous only for sugar and distilleries, and 
 again the ship anchored in Panama Bay. Ran over to 
 Taboga for water, visited our friends, embraced Donna 
 Anna, found my little washing girls had the fever, and 
 Lady Mulgrave as fat as ever. All these are characters, 
 but would occupy volumes to bring them forth ; what 
 am I to do ? prudence says, be quiet I 
 
 I imagined that a night on shore at Panama would bo 
 a change, a variety, after six hundred nights on board ; 
 however to any one who has slept, or tried to sleep, in a 
 Spanish town, I wish them joy. I could not do so. I 
 endeavoured in vain to close my eyes ; musicians kept 
 me uneasy until one or two o'clock in the morning, the 
 cock then commenced crowing, which was at once taken 
 up by dogs barking and howling (the howl of a Spanish 
 half-starved dog is not pleasant), then by donkeys bray- 
 ing, and finally at daylight by the unmusical drums and 
 fifes of the soldiers next house to us, which continued 
 until eight o'clock, when I arose ; and just as I had com- 
 menced a polka round the room with black Chincha, a 
 message came to say "the ship was off!" 
 
 There is not much harmony to a musical ear in the 
 combined efforts of a donkey's bray, a soldier's tattoo, a 
 howling dog, and the chuckling of a quantity of cocks 
 and hena One at a time would be preferred, if it 
 must be so ; but all together ! Oh 1 and to which only 
 
304 
 
 A LOVELY <'HIL1;N(». 
 
 I 
 
 tho mimquifcoeB could keep tinio, whicli they did I Tho 
 hotul I was staying at (indeed, the only ono in Panaiim) 
 has a lablo d'lw^lo, at whirh all innrt: and tho ioinl l)ell 
 Hound(>d for bivuldVist at iiino a.m. I wan ropaid for all 
 my ni^hfH' HutVi'ringH by oidy witting at tlii> table with 
 one of (ho uiost iovoly (/hilrnon that imagination can 
 picture or the idea fancry ; a family on their way to St. 
 Jago-de-Chili, their native place, having been on a tour 
 ill Kngland and Paris thi'ee-and-a-half yoar«, wore now 
 returning; (lonoral B., his wife, ami three daughtors, the 
 cldoHt married, the youngest, a lovely Childno, black 
 eyes and hair, and a musical (^astilian voice. All I 
 know is, that I paid six reals for a breakfast, which I 
 scarcely looked at ! and J do not think I was tho only 
 one I 
 
 A cruise roimd the Pearl Islands occupied us somo time. 
 All were visited, in number 1 think, 125. There is but 
 one town, if it deserves the name, of any importance, St. 
 Miguel, on tho island of that name. In many places, 
 the people fled on our approach, fancying we were the 
 " Flores expedition," of whom they had heard, and whom 
 thev were daily expecting. Here we saw tho pearl 
 divers obtaining the oysters, remoining under water 72 
 to 75 seconds, when they came up with their baskets 
 full. Ilei^ also are tho largest sharks in the world. 
 The " tiger shark," — I shall not attempt to estimate its 
 size, for I would not be credited, even were I within 
 bounds. Hero also may be seen the much-dreaded 
 *' Tint^ro,'' or devil fish. It lays on the white sands in 
 shallow waters with its graspers spread, and when it sees 
 its prey above it, rises, clasps it in its fins, and descends 
 
SI'iVNIMII I'AUTr. 
 
 206 
 
 It is a horriblo-luoking fish, inoro drondod by tho nativcn 
 than the Nliark. 
 
 Oil our rrtiirn to tho protty villngo of Taboga, wo find 
 it btirncd to th(i ground — an accidont A fuw dayn were 
 cnlivciHMl here ))y the prouunce of the A(Uiiiral and bin 
 nmiabhj fajnily; tho conNc«|uen(;o i'h, Home ph;aHant 
 parties, pic-nics and (K'joun^'rH. At a Spaniwh party, or 
 ball, you must not expect the company to be very Holect; 
 you must not be mirprised or horrified if you me(jt the 
 young lady who sold you your kid gloves, or your tailor's 
 family, or tho chap that waited on you at your last table 
 d'h6te dirmor, or the youn^ fellow who marked your 
 game of billiardH. TheHe you must expect — any may 
 be your vis-a-vis in a (piadrille or country dance. 
 
 Afterwards I witnessed a "grand funcion," — anew 
 bishop elected in lieu of tho one who died the day of our 
 arrival. Tho Cathedral was crowded with the <3lito of 
 Panama, beautifully and gaudily attired. The cere- 
 mony of kissing hands 1 thought most absurd; the 
 majority kissed a diamond ring which his lordship wore, 
 and which had been handed down from his Holiness the 
 Pope. Their nina were forgiven for a period ofFomrv 
 DAYS, after kissing the ring, and the ceremony ended ; 
 his train-bearers handed him carefully out into the 
 dirty streets of Panama. A "convenient" religion 
 thought I. After many pleasant evenings in Panama 
 at the Admiral's, the Governor's, Consul's, &c., we 
 sailed for Callao, touching at Payta, and passing close to 
 the melancholy spot where we lost our amiable friend. 
 All those sad feelings on that occasion were again 
 revived, and we could not pass it without a sigh. 
 
 
:i.: 
 
 ( 
 
 lU 
 
 C' 
 
 aoe 
 
 OALWAY MAN. 
 
 At Payta, we found our " Galway man ** had been 
 raised to the high position of a consular agent, and had 
 now the Union Jack floating proudly over his premises. 
 We had a queer dance there that evening. 
 
(JHAPTEU VI. 
 
 LIMA. 
 
 I'n 
 
 MMA — OUR CA8TILIAN — JID^BOOM STREET — A DONKEY PIC-NIC — 
 MISS CIIAMBERS — LOVELY EMILY — FINISH — KEEL-IIAirLING — 
 RESORT — SERENADE — THE EMBARGO — ADIEU TO CALLAO. 
 
 Arriving at Callao, on lier Majesty's Coronation-day, 
 we were able to partake in the loyalty displayed on that 
 occasion. Coming down the coast from Payta, several 
 small towns were seen ; Huanchaco, Truxillo, and Santa 
 being among those most worthy of note, all surrounded 
 by extensive ranchas and numerous cattle. By-the-bye, 
 while it occurs to me, I may as well state that, as we 
 are now on a Spanish coast, I shall have occasion to make 
 use of many Spanish terms, so as still to retain the 
 sentiment they contain ; therefore, as they arc from 
 recollection onlyj many may be found misspelt and 
 wrongly accentuated, therefore I must ask indulgence 
 on this point, as I had not time when writing to fly to a 
 dictionary on every occasion. One thing I am con- 
 vinced of, that a Castilian word, or term, will lose none of 
 its " sweet sentiment " by being either wrongly spelt 
 or by the omission of a letter. 
 
 On my last visit to this place, it will be recollected 
 that I was not favourably impressed with my first stroll 
 
I ! 
 
 208 
 
 A DONKKY PICXrO. 
 
 1. 
 
 i 
 
 on shore; besides the mad dogs, naked chicken, and 
 monkey cats, which everywhere surrounded me then, 
 we had now the addition of donkeys, and these latter 
 were turned to a first-rate account. Our first evening 
 here was passed in a most deUghtful and amusing 
 manner. There were many "mids" now in harbour, 
 and all had returned from a long sea cruise ; they had, 
 therefore, some money, which was already ** burning 
 holes in their pockets." All who could be spared from 
 duty assembled on shore, and with two " double-barrel- 
 led organs " and a guitar (although on a rough ground), 
 we passed a very tolerable evening with many whom we 
 had invited from highways and byeways — Fandangos, 
 Refi^Uiosas, and Zamba Cuecas — until a very late hour. 
 Our refreshments were **fisgig and sherry." On 
 returning to the boat at the mole rather late, we 
 presented the faithful sentry, who was "walking his 
 post,'* with a new broom, which some of the party found 
 we had accidentally brought away from a billiard-room 
 in which we had had our dancing party. 
 
 Seventy of the donkeys I have just alluded to were, 
 to-day, collected by the residents of Callao, and a pic-nic 
 given to the officers of the squadron. At noon, we were 
 all mounted, our rendezvous at an Irishman's house> 
 and made a grand start. When we had overcome the 
 excitement of mounting, and settling and adjusting riding 
 habits, &o., and fairly on the road, we looked back on 
 the scene; it was perfectly ludicrous, and no person, 
 under the most painful circumstances, could have resisted 
 a downright laugh. People, of all sorts and sizes, on 
 donkey b of much the same pattern, smothered in dust. 
 
ken, and 
 me then, 
 ese latter 
 i evening 
 amusing 
 harbour, 
 hey had, 
 "burning 
 ared from 
 >le-barrel- 
 , ground), 
 whom we 
 andangos, 
 late hour, 
 y." On 
 late, we 
 Iking his 
 rty found 
 iard-room 
 
 1 to were, 
 a pic-nic 
 , we were 
 I's house^ 
 come the 
 ing riding 
 i back on 
 o person, 
 re resisted 
 sizes, on 
 d in dust, 
 
 DONKEY PICNIC. 
 
 209 
 
 bringing a cloud after their cavalcade ; donkeys 
 breaking down with their loads, ladios rolling oflT in the 
 dust, sailors ridintf, some " st<Tn forpmost," others 
 dragging their animals by the bridles, more coaxing 
 them with pins, was now the scene along the whole 
 road. 
 
 Before starting, three of the very small and good- 
 looking cadets were dressed in ladies' ri<ling habits, hats, 
 bonnets and veils, and but one or two of the party knew 
 of this circumstance ; they looked well, and by acting 
 their part admirably, deceived even their own mesa- 
 mates. As each new comer arrived, he was intro«luced 
 formally to Miss Carpenter, Miss Delaney, and Miss 
 Chambers, who made graceful acknowledgments ; even 
 one of very high rank was taken in, bowed, and raised 
 his cocked bat to the young strangers. A remarkable 
 scene occurred on the road, — these young trio in ladies' 
 attire made themselves so very agreeable (moreover 
 being strangers, and keeping their faces protected from 
 the sun by having down their thick veils), that they 
 received more than their proper share of attentions, and 
 all were vieing with each other who should be the 
 favoured ones. Mips Chambers slipped off her donkey ! 
 all rushed of course, particularly a young doctor ! " She 
 needed no assistance," but some would persist in lifting 
 her on again. Several attempts were made, one on this 
 side, one at the other, to catch her ; 'twas of no use. 
 We had by this time all assembled about her in roars of 
 laughter ; to have lifted her habit, for the purpose of 
 placing her foot on a gentleman's hand, would have 
 revealed the secret. " Stand on one side," says she, for- 
 
"TT 
 
 210 
 
 THE LOVELY EMILY. 
 
 getting her sex, gathered up her habit, and jumped on 
 the donkey on "all fours," and settled herself. We 
 thought this very (jueer. 
 
 On arriving ai the ground all the donkeys were 
 secured, the cloth and lunch laid out, and the several 
 couples — boys and girls — strolled ; Miss Carpenter had 
 her beau, Miss D. and 0. ^heir's; the fonner "pair" 
 really attracted attention, they were, what Jack would 
 call, "quite spooney." However, it was rude to watch 
 them, and they were allowed to " gain an offing," when 
 a circumstance occurred, in which Miss C. throwing up 
 her veil, and dashing her hat off, said to her most par- 
 ticular friend and messmate, " Is it possible you don't 
 know me ? " All the story was then told where she liad 
 dressed, whose clothing they had on, and so forth, which 
 afforded much amusement to all. We dined and 
 danced, danced and dined, on a very liberal scale, — 
 mountains of eatables and rivers of drinkables ; hen we 
 completed the afternoon with donkey racing 'ping, 
 chase the goose, and some songs. 
 
 The lovely Emily Mc Pherson was of our party ! her 
 melancholy dejected countenance could not be looked on 
 without sympathy and even pain ; to see her was to 
 admire her, to admire was to feel yourself irretrievably 
 in love with her. The ca\ise of her despair is a short 
 story. She came out from England not a long time 
 since to meet an only brother, who had advanced so far 
 in business, as to write for her to come and keep his 
 house for him. At considerable expense and a dreary 
 sea voyage overcome, she arrived, and found him dead ! 
 Her grief for some days was excessive, and even danger 
 
 -'s5!H»-. 
 
krf:l iiaumno. 
 
 211 
 
 imped on 
 self. We 
 
 teys were 
 16 several 
 jnter had 
 ,er "pair" 
 ,ck would 
 to watch 
 ng," when 
 owing up 
 most par- 
 you don't 
 •e she had 
 rth, which 
 lined and 
 d scale, — 
 hen we 
 
 >arty ! her 
 looked on 
 er was to 
 etrievably 
 IS a short 
 long time 
 ;ed so far 
 keep his 
 a dreary 
 lim dead ! 
 en danger 
 
 i 4- 
 
 apprehended ; this caused a pale innocence to take pos- 
 session of her cheek, which contrasted well with thfi 
 deep mourning sho had on. 'J'his was the first time I 
 had seen her, and a more lovely expression of coun- 
 tenance I have seldom witnessed. I would not be 
 introduced to her. an indescribable dread came over me, 
 that seemed to say, once to know Emily was never to 
 leave her ; and once to speak to her, was that instant to 
 be a prisoner for ever. She danced gracefully, rode 
 stylishly, and talked of sweet romances 1 
 
 It was a dark night when we came into town, fatigued 
 and smothered in dust ; after about an hour's rest '.ve 
 had a bath in one house, dressed in another, had our 
 shoes polished in a third ; and finished the evening 
 lounging and chatting, drinking innumerable small 
 refreshing cups of tea, and sweet cakes, while gazing 
 in the faces of all our pic-nic p;uty, among whom was 
 again the lovely, innocent and attractive Emily. The 
 lovely Emily was shortly afterwards united to one of the 
 noblest Lieutenants in H. M.'s navy, after only a few 
 days' courtship. 
 
 * KEEL HAULING. 
 
 It may be often heard said, that our punishments in 
 the navy, such as flogging, &c., " are very severe." It is 
 not so, it is trifling when compared with other services, 
 French, American, Russian, &c. To-day we witnessed 
 the process of keel-hauling, which was inflicted on two 
 men belonging to a French brig of war. The men 
 were " spread eagled," that is stretched out, and a thirty- 
 two pound shot tied to their legs. The hands are 
 
 p 2 
 
 -^* 
 
;?**' 
 
 21^ 
 
 JIB-BOOM STREET. 
 
 I 
 
 turned up and the warrants read, the sufferer is triced 
 up to the main-yard arm by " all hands ;" let fall, and 
 kept under water fifty seconds (I think) by a watch, he 
 is then run up again, let fall, and so forth three times. 
 Two days after one victim died ! Compare this with 
 our flogging, and which is worse ? One is the natural 
 consequence of crime, the other barbarous and inhuman. 
 
 There is a street in Callao la}7ing at right angles to 
 the shore, which is named " Jib-boom Street ;" this was 
 the scene of rr.any a noisy evening of dancing and 
 singing, as wAl as a " few rows." At Carmasita's house 
 in particular, two harps, two organs and a guitar, always 
 met us ; and the matting was danced off the room, ami 
 the soles off our shoes, and we frequently remained until 
 past twelve, when the faithful pilot " Ignacio" steered 
 us in the guard boat to our respective ships, passing the 
 three admirals, English, French and Peruvian, whom we 
 never neglected to serenade. Young gentlemen under 
 the age of sixteen were strictly prohibited from going 
 to those evening dances in "Jib-boom Street," and three 
 having outstepped the law, suffered by being sent from 
 a truly hxippy to a very unhappy ship, with a notice 
 of only ten minutes to prepare their kits, the vessel 
 under weigh bound on a long sea voyage ! 
 
 Having bid adieu to Callao, I fear " for ever," started 
 for Payta, arriving in four days, which occupied us 
 twenty-four in coming to Callao. We had only time to 
 give a dinner to the new Consul, "the man for 
 Galway," when we sailed for the Gulf of Guayaquil, 
 and anchored off the city, where dwelt the " Fairest of 
 the Fair." 
 
 — , — J J 
 
er is triced 
 let fall, and 
 a watch, he 
 ihree times. 
 re this with 
 the natural 
 d inhuman, 
 kt angles to 
 t ;" this was 
 ancing and 
 isita's house 
 litar, always 
 le room, and 
 nained until 
 icio" stfeied 
 passing the 
 n, whom we 
 men under 
 rom going 
 and three 
 sent from 
 ,h a notice 
 the vessel 
 
 er," started 
 yccupied us 
 nly time to 
 
 man for 
 Guayaquil, 
 
 Fairest of 
 
 ! 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 (GUAYAQUIL. 
 
 1 
 
 OUAYAQUII, — FAIBK8T OF THE FAIK — BAN08 — BASIL HAU. — 
 GRAND DIVFRCION — TUB VISIT — SCENTS AND FRAGRANT BEADS 
 — FUNA — THE GRAVE — PANAMA — RAINY SEASON — W — 's 
 WEDDING I'REVEXTED — CUl'ICA HAY — SALANO — ESCAPE— SAN 
 JTAN — SUFFER FROM EICKNESS — LETTERS — MY FIRST 
 MOl'RXINQ. 
 
 I 
 
 Wk were a little surprised in the morning early, to find 
 the banks of the river crowded with pei"sons, boys and 
 girls, ladies and old men, taking their bancs, a recreation 
 they are very fond of ; they sit up to their waists in 
 water, and pour it from calabashes over their heads for 
 hours together, until the heat of the sun compels them 
 to retire, and you see no person then until evening, 
 Spanish hammocks are seldom seen now, except an 
 occasional one in a verandah. The " Fairest of the 
 Fair" took umbrage at the remark of Basil Hall, who 
 said, without an intention of r.^ending, " When he 
 entered the drawing-rooms it •vaa with difficulty he 
 tlireaded his way through the many hammocks which 
 were flitting about with fair occupants," it made hira 
 
21 1 
 
 Tin; VISIT. 
 
 " (juito RiiMy, " 'Ui«l "ho iilnioM, rP(jniro<l a |»ilot." They 
 roiiMidorod ihirt a rot1r><Mion on \\w\r intuiconi habit.H ati<l 
 <MiH(omN. ami now noi a haninioi'k is to ho wrn in any 
 of Ihoir "«|nartaM." I Irijgt. ihoy will not conHidor my 
 remark «»n ilirir hoalMiy paHiinin aH rffloriing any 
 dlHcnHlit. 
 
 Tho j^ov»>rnt>r paid uh an ofTirial viHii, aroonipnniiMl hy 
 his ai«lo-«lp-oainp, an«l in tho ov(»ning i\wni was n grand 
 " «livpi(;ion" and proooNPinri, iho militia wrrorallnd out, 
 and rxiMoiso«l, (thoy woro now in iKxIiiy foar (»f " FIoioh' 
 expedition") after which a hullook was ronHt.n<l, and 
 norvetl ot»t with pl(<nty of apiadiont^. Tho proreflsion 
 wnn granil, a(t(>ndnl hy tho oivil arid military hands, tho 
 " wnnt«" «>f tho Kovoral ohapolH olovatod and carried hy 
 men, tho " Virgin Mnry" 08('or(<Ml hy all the virgiiiH, who 
 wore lon}4 hhn'k rihlMuiM, onrryin^jf long lighted tallow 
 candh>H, wl.'oh from th«» hoat of the Htm won> weeping 
 mneh quicker in thfl hiuidH than at the wick. The 
 crowds who aAsendtlod at tho windows and on tho bal- 
 conies, were gandily and heanlifnily dressed, and full of 
 smiles. 
 
 Wovisiled one of tho most ancient, wealthy, and most 
 rtgiTeable of the rt^idents, where we wero priwided, as 
 Basil Hall describes, with ghi«H»iB of fresco, dulicious 
 scents, an«l fragiant ImmkIs, the latter tlio produce of the 
 tire fly on the bean of the laburnum (t think). The 
 thvc sonoriths entered one by one after tlioy had com- 
 fJetod their toi.'ct, sang and played the piano and guitoj- 
 for vfj. The rhlest h.inq tl»o " Somnambula" to per- 
 fection, the others duettos. The amiable mother took 
 the trouble to Loll us more than once the names of her 
 
 I 
 
 f 
 
IMfNA — TirH (iUAVK 
 
 2ir» 
 
 ,l)iiN ruxl 
 I in any 
 i«lor my 
 ng any 
 
 niml by 
 n grand 
 illfMl oni 
 ' FlorPH* 
 ,o«l, an«l 
 ocPHRion 
 indn, (I in 
 rr'wd l)y 
 inH, who 
 I tallow 
 weoping 
 k. Tl.n 
 Llio bal- 
 1 full of 
 
 nd inoHt 
 nAv{\, an 
 luliciouK 
 
 of the 
 ). The 
 id coni- 
 d guiioj- 
 
 to per- 
 ler took 
 
 1 of lier 
 
 daiiglitorH, who wero certainly good HpecirnenH of the 
 " I'airoHt of the fair ;" the yoiingoHt, I thought, the fairest 
 and nioHt beautiful picture of a Spaninh girl 1 hful ever 
 Mcon ; to eneape from I lie piercing rays of thowe oye«, 
 " oonio cHtrelloH," ono dties indeed tleHcrvn credit. 
 
 r rnuHt ncjver paKs over the ffxtrerno hospitality wo all 
 recnivcd from the BritiHh CouhuI at Puna. A more worthy, 
 kind and generouH old English gentleman, it would bo 
 dilHcuit to find ; his was always bachfdor's hall and o|[)en 
 house, 
 
 Puna is the criuntry residence of our friend, an island 
 at the entrance of the Ouaya(pjil river, out of which we 
 «pu«tly and " slyly" kedged very early in the morning, 
 on our way again to Panama, calling at S'Elena, 
 Salango, Manta, and Sua ; this latter is close to the Kj)Ot 
 where the melancholy and never-to-b«j-forgotten ac-cideni 
 occurred two years since. We visited our departed 
 friend's grave ; it was unchanged ! a tree or two wore 
 gradually increasing in size, drooping and weeping over 
 it. And on Sunday, in a deluge of rain, we anchored at 
 Panama. It Wfvs the day of Panamanian tii,(/f'//enden(:e, 
 and a salute of twenty-eiglr iii.s was hrwl from those 
 pieces of ordnHTjot! 1 have bcl' minutely dcscriljod ! 
 
 The town v/as dull, dull in every m i.se ot the tenn. 
 It was the rainy season, thunder, lightr.ing and un 
 without ccjising, and the sic. ly season had carried off 
 many — the mourners still weepnig! 
 
 In my first walk on shore I met my friend Mr. ^* • bster. 
 After introducing himself he said, " he had seen much 
 of the world — his head was broken, his jaw dislo<;at» !, 
 ribs sticking out, right thigh broken, hands la< < ed, 
 
 h 
 
 W 
 
2IG 
 
 WEBST1.K8 WLDDING. 
 
 eye gouged ; on bis thumls were still the marks where 
 he had been strung up to confess to a church robbery, 
 his ancles wounded, having had seventy pounds of iron 
 on them to prevent his hauling himself up." All these / 
 stttf, and it would have made it shorter, if I had at once 
 said, he was literally mangled. Ho was anxious to 
 barter a collection of very beautiful shells for some 
 drawings of mine, hence our acquaintance 1 " The 
 pictures," he told n'e, " were to adorn his house, as he 
 was about to be married to a very pretty Spanish girl, 
 with plenty of money and property, whose brother was 
 to purchase him a vessel which he was to command. 
 There was only otie impediment to his marriage, that 
 was, he could get no person to certify that he had not 
 been previously married in Europe. This was easily 
 overcome ; three mids arranged it ! and "certified that 
 James Webster, son of James and Margaret his wife, 
 was not to the best of their belief previously married." 
 This was after dinner ! we reflected (midshipmen, how- 
 ever, seldom do so), and on second thoughts, fearing that 
 the Bishop of Panama might call on one of us to " give 
 Webster a\\ay," the certificate was cancelled after due 
 deliberation, and poor weather-beaten Webster left to 
 piue. He was a native of Carrickfergus, in Ireland. 
 
 I may say the rains washed us away from Panama. 
 We had already lost some of our best sailors, and many 
 were now suffering, so we thought " prudence the best 
 part of valour," and sailed. Ihis gave us an opportunity 
 of seeing " Cupica Bay," into which it was contemplated 
 to cut the canal thi ough the Isthmus of Darien, from the 
 Atrato River — a grand scheme, if ever attempted. I 
 
SAN JUAN. 
 
 217 
 
 ventured up the river in a canoe, about a mile, and saw 
 that the highest part of land to be cut would be about 
 300 feet in elevation. 
 
 Off the Salano River, another distressing .-Kcident had 
 nearly deprived us of one more shipmate. 
 
 I had just sat down to dinner, when I heard the " boats 
 suddenly called away," and I was ordered to go in one, to 
 rescue one of our smaller boats, which had capsized in the 
 surf. Fortunately, no one was drowned, but everything 
 lost, and the crew had a very narrow escape. 
 
 Chirarabera is at one of the mouths of the " San Juan," 
 which very nearly divides America, The distance to the 
 head of the river, on which sUinds the city of Novdt^, 
 is not known, but it takes a canoe seven days to pole up, 
 and a steamer would do it in twenty hours. From the 
 head of this to the " Atrato," on the other side, is a quarter 
 of a league, and can be passed in an hour, running into 
 the Gulf of Darien, There is plenty of water — eight to 
 twelve fathoms — but the navigation is very intricate. 
 The woods abound in wild boar, the sloth, black monkey, 
 and opossum — the latter having a paw much resembling 
 the human hand — many turkeys (wild), and the river is 
 alive with Hsh. The rains are incessant ; on an average, 
 only thirty days during the year are without them. The 
 "San Juan" has six mouths. A village stands at the 
 entrance, having a spirit distillery ; the inhabitants are 
 Spanish and Indians, and from the Padron of the village 
 I obtained most of this information. 
 
 Our " happy," but, I am sorry to add, " sickly" ship, was 
 now well nigh losing our beloved and much respected chief; 
 and this caused our return in haste to Panama. He 
 
v,,- 
 
 218 
 
 FlUSr M(»UUNIN(J. 
 
 remained ill for in.iny dnys, and waa very nearly despaired 
 of, wbon.tothe nHtoniHhment and wonderof all, wo received 
 orders to proceed to the " North Pole," by Behring'fi 
 Strait ; to the chillinp and refreahinsf idea alone, I 
 believe, wo wore indebte<l for the recovery of onr worthy 
 captain. Wo were all, of course, in high spirits at so 
 wnexj.ected and welcome a change. As for myself, I 
 was delighted ; nothing could bo more charming and 
 novel than a cnfise to the Arctic regions, and in so 
 humane a cause. I wa.s rejoicing within myself at this, 
 when a letter waa handed to me with a deep black mar- 
 gin ! A chill ran through me. I thought I should have 
 fallen on the deck. I had lost a beloved sister ! All 
 I could say was, " God's will be done !" It was my first 
 mourning ; and, being naturally of a vivacious spirit, I 
 felt this now the keener. I was compelled to live on 
 shore for some days, to endeavour to pass away the grief 
 which this sorrowful intelligence caused me. 
 
PART Til IK I). 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 fRRPARE KOBTIIK NORTH — A TERTtTI.IA — RAPIIKUA — HAD TIIOI'OIITS 
 
 HAM»WHII IHI.ES — HIUNH OK I,ANI> — - l'KrilOI'AVM»V»K«»l — 
 
 WATKBY ORAVK 8AI.MON — TOMIIH OF I.OHT NAVKiATORH — 
 
 TIIK TOWN — A 80IRKK OANHAMTK — VISITORh' RK.MARKH — TUB 
 
 CIIARt.KH, A MIHTAKK IlKIIRINri'H IHI.K — NATIVKh' VISIT 
 
 NOBTON 80ITNI) — IIRIIRINO HTBAIT — KUCATK FBOM WBKCK 
 
 UBANH MKTKOB — KOTKRIIIIB BOUND IIMWHOm's MABK — A POST 
 
 — THK HRARCH BAIDABS AND KTAKH NKWH — TUB STUDH — 
 
 IIIKSK BONBg — COLD flinBRfA — FUNERAL AT SKA. 
 
 " Far 08 the eye can reach, and all around. 
 Is one vast icy solitude profouml !" 
 
 AiJi was now excitement, bustle, and preparation for a 
 most interesting cruise, in a humane cause ; an<l it was 
 a strange coincidence that we, who had been the very 
 last to wave our caps, and wish " God speed," should now 
 be chosen to aid in searching for the lost Franklin and 
 his brave associates. We entered on this service with all 
 our hearts and all our endeavours. Warm clothing was 
 preparing, extra provisions stowing away, benevolent 
 
220 
 
 TKKTIM.IA. 
 
 Iioots and soups arriving, prosrntfl for natives collecting ; 
 and all these tomJed much to revive my droopin»T spirits, 
 which had undergone so severe a test. 
 
 Such was the anxiety prevailing, and such the neces- 
 sity for immediate action, that a large and powerful 
 steamer was sent to tow us through the calms into the 
 trade winds, as there is always a difficulty in getting 
 away from this part of the American coast. 
 
 Water and fresh provisions had to be completed at 
 the pretty little island of 'I'aboga, not many miles from 
 Panama, and our last evening being passed here (which 
 may, perhaps, he the very last), wo gave the inhabitants, 
 who had often shown much kindness to us, a parting 
 " Tertulia" (on shore). The white rosette was handed to 
 my charge, and I, therefore, had a busy as well as a 
 responsible day ; and not the least anxious part was the 
 brew, on an extensive scale, of the " Connemara lemon- 
 ade." We were in number about forty-five (for numbers 
 are limited in Taboga), besides numerous gazers from 
 doorways and gallery. The band — three fiddlers, a drum, 
 and triangle ; it was astonishing to see how w^U the girls 
 managed dances, some of which they had never seen 
 before. One exception, indeed, who was perfect, and at 
 the same time the belle. 
 
 Raphdlia was a visitor on the island ; she was beauti- 
 ful ! she was attractive ! Her mother, whom we had 
 before seen, was blind, and the cause was both strange 
 and melancholy. . '^ 
 
 Her husband had been shot a short time since, for 
 taking an active part in the disturbance at Ecuador, she 
 being an eye-witness. The moment his body fell, she 
 
 i 
 
ollecting ; 
 u» spiritB. 
 
 he neces- 
 
 powerful 
 
 I into the 
 
 1 getting 
 
 plcted at 
 liles from 
 re (which 
 labitantS; 
 I parting 
 landed to 
 veil as a 
 b was the 
 I lemon- 
 numbers 
 ers from 
 a drum, 
 the girls 
 i^er seen 
 ;, and at 
 
 J beauti- 
 we had 
 strange 
 
 inee, for 
 dor, she 
 fell, she 
 
 SAD THOUOHTS. 
 
 221 
 
 )':. 
 
 rushed to the spot, and covered it with a sheet which she 
 had prepared, to hide the corpse from a curious and 
 gazing multitude, who had assembled to witness this 
 horrible scene. From this circumstance, her eyes weak- 
 ened, and she eventually lost her sight. Raphelia was 
 the only child, and she was now sent to Taboga, under 
 the care of Donna Anna, to prevent a marriage which 
 was about to take place with one not considered by her 
 mother suitable. She had money and beauty, and to 
 this island she was sent to be saved. 
 
 She was dressed very tastefully, but some one acci- 
 dentally stepped on her flounce, and the skirt came down. 
 The dress was removed, and she appeared in a mere 
 morning costume. At two o'clock next morning, we con- 
 ducted them all to their homes, the band playing " Rule, 
 Britannia," through the quiet streets of Taboga — of 
 course, all assisting at the chorus — and took an affecting 
 farewell. 
 
 All the boats had been hoisted up, for an early start, 
 and small canoes brought us to our ship, one by one — 
 not, however, before some had already fallen into gutters, 
 others in love, and not a few into sleep on the beach, 
 from which it was <liflficult to rouse them. 
 
 Daylight we weie off, and sad thoughts soon filled the 
 vacancies of pleasure ! 
 
 Our ship, very deep in the water, was towed along at 
 a brisk and pleasant rate, through almost a calm, and 
 the nine hearty cheers we received on parting almost 
 made us fancy success was certain. We were now alone 
 — alone on the trackless and dreary ocean, with nothing 
 but the sky and water to gaze on for many, many days — 
 
222 
 
 SIGNS OF LAND. 
 
 and having to pass through the belt of rains ; an idea of 
 the quantity fallen may be roughly formed, when there 
 was collected in one day " eleven tons." 
 
 After passing the Sandwich Isles, where the immortal 
 Cook was killed by the natives, in Karakoa Bay, the 
 tropics were cleared, in which we had been one year and 
 nine months. The time hung on us now very heavily, 
 and we often were compelled to have recourse to the 
 innocent games of "jump-back," and marbles made of 
 pitch. • '* • 
 
 Three months had now elapsed on our voyage, and we 
 longed to see land once more. Fogs, puffins, lummies, 
 gulls, driftwood, and weed now told us land was not far 
 off, and, true enough, next morning opened to our view a 
 scene which none can ever forget. To say it was " grand," 
 would be giving but a ^ry distant idea of its splendour 
 and magnificence. We found ourselves beneath the 
 mountains of Koriatskoi and Yilleuchinskoi, perpetually 
 covered with snow, at the entrance of the Bay of Awatska, 
 on the peninsula of Kamstchatka. The same evening, 
 the anchor was dropped at the entrance of the bay, after 
 being ninety days at sea. We could hardly reconcile 
 ourselves to the fact, that we were in a part of the world 
 so many thousands of miles from England, in a place so 
 unknown, and so seldom frequented ; Petropavlovskoi. 
 On the port hand going in, was passed the spot where 
 the packet from Otchosk had lately been wrecked, and 
 fourteen passengers met a watery grave. The whale-boat, 
 also, iliat went to their assistance was lost, and six hands 
 also perished. Twenty souls from so small a village as 
 Petropavlovskoi was severely felt After anchoring off 
 
PCTROl'AVLOVSKOT. 
 
 223 
 
 t 
 
 k 
 
 the cemetery, a boat came off with salmon, and forty 
 were purchased for one dollar, lleiuler, imagine — three 
 months on salt provisions and rain water; our benevolent 
 soups a failure ; our preserved meats Goldner's ! — what 
 an agreeable welcome this was ! 
 
 My first pleasure on going on shore was to visit the 
 tombs of former navigators — Clerk (Co<jk'8 captain), 
 Behring, and Pdrouse To the latter 's memory the 
 Russians have erected a handsome monument, between 
 the hills on the left of the bay, with an appropriate 
 inscription. It is neatly railed in, and surrounded with 
 sweet-briar and wild roses. Another, equally handsome, 
 was erected to Behring. It stands in the Governor's 
 garden, fronting the gate ; long tussic grass surrounds it, 
 and by its side is a small waterfall. There is a long 
 inscription (in Rus-sian) on this. Nothing remains of 
 Clerk's, but a notch or two cut in a tree wliere the body 
 was laid, the inscription having been removed to the 
 church when the gardens were under repair. Of the two 
 former I made sketches, and could not help feeling with 
 deep emotion that I was tracing the outlines of such great 
 and worthy explorers, who hatl lost their lives in pursuit 
 of knowledge for their country. 
 
 The town is small, but pretty. The houses, which 
 consist of a Chapel, the Governor's, an engine-room, 
 guard-house (fronting which is a battery of small brass 
 guns), and store-houses, are built of logwood. For three 
 months in the year, the weather is fine ; the remaining 
 nine, the snow is above the windows of the houses, and 
 the bay entirely frozen over. We were told that last 
 winter the dogs and sleighs went over the trees in the 
 
 •km 
 
224 
 
 SOIREK. 
 
 gardens, which are as high as the houses. The snow 
 takes about three months to accumulate. It thaws a 
 little, then freezers over, and then is the time for the 
 sleighs. 
 
 The peoj^lf; were delighted at having an English man- 
 of-war in their anchorage — something very new to them — 
 and they commenced to show us every manner of atten- 
 tion. Visits were interchanged, and dinner-parties en- 
 joyed, and a " soiree dansante " given at the Governor's 
 hospitable dwelling, to which latter all went, and found 
 all the ladies (about fifteen) in one room, the gentlemen 
 in another ; the ladies, headed by Madame, looking 
 beautiful. I cannot say they were all lovely, but they 
 had most pleasing expressions, and some really pretty. 
 The little " Green Parrots " (as we called them) danced 
 with ease, grace, and elegance. The elder of the two was 
 an adopted child, whose father (a Russian officer) and 
 mother both died here, and the little girl was taken under 
 Madame's care, who did her benefactress much credit. 
 The evening commenced with a quick marcli, each j;en- 
 tleman taking a lady round both rooms, seating her, 
 then taking another, till all were exhausted ; this was 
 the introduction. Russian country dances and waltzes — 
 the former, a little of everything — were the only ones. A 
 tragic scene was performed in the garden by twenty 
 native Kamstchadales, who sang and acted some bandit 
 affair remarkably well. We imagined the Russians 
 were rather distant to the ladies, but put a chr.ritable 
 construction on the circumstance, and concluded it 
 must have been " making-room for us." A remark 
 made by a French navigator in his narrative hurt much 
 
VISITORS REMARKS. 
 
 225 
 
 tlie feelings of the ladies. He saiil " that the females 
 in dancing imitated bear hunts, which when over, they 
 laid down on the ground and yierspired so profusely that 
 the smell between oil and fish was anything but agree- 
 able to the nasal organa." 
 
 All I can add to this now is, that if such was the case, 
 there is a most wonderful improvement, and they are all 
 following the example of their worthy, handsome, and 
 amiable governess. Another remark was made by the 
 doctor of a whaling ship, which was published in a small 
 pamphlet, and gave great offence when read, that " many 
 of the people (females) bathed in the pond near the 
 town, adjoining the promenade." Tliis, I was assured 
 by many, was not the truth, and entire fabrication ! 
 
 After many pleasant evenings, we were compelled to 
 say adieu ! — the season was fast drawing to a close, and 
 we must depart. At the entrance of the bay our ship 
 was boarded by the master of a whale-ship, who compli- 
 mented us by saying he thought us the " whale ship 
 Charles," and was quite surprised on coming on deck ; 
 and he also " calculated we should find it tarnation cf ' ' . 
 and, if we ventured into Behring's Straits, should not come 
 out again this season." None were much astonished at 
 being mistaken for a whaler, for the vessel was very deep, 
 with grass on the copper, and our small summer spars 
 on deck, and storm sails bent ; but the prospect of not 
 coming out of the ice again was not agreeable to us who 
 had been burning within the tropics for three years, and 
 unprepared for severities, now began to feel the cold in- 
 tensely. Passed Behring's Island, where the great ex- 
 plorer of that name had been cast away, and whose tomb 
 
m 
 
 
 226 
 
 NATIVES VISIT. 
 
 I ^i 
 
 we had lately fseen. With the exf ption of a gale of 
 wind off lh.8 Island, which washec^ way our hammock 
 nettings, made the ship leak throughout, even into the 
 mid.'s iKfth and provision rooms, nothing particular 
 occurred until off Cape Tchoukotskoi, when \\>^ were 
 visited by the Tchutchip, who came off in five baidars, 
 a new one containing four women, the others manned by 
 from seven to thirteen natives ; and +*'(ey came alongside 
 without any hesitation or fear. Their baidars were a 
 framework of light wood covered over with ,x walrus 
 akin laced quite tight, and 'vere both transparent and 
 watertight. Bartering commenced iraKn^jdliately — wal- 
 rus teeth, dresses, and oniaments, for tobacco. The men 
 had all the crowns of their heads shaved, leaving a circle 
 of hair around. We could not understand one word of 
 tbeir language, and therefore could get no information 
 about tlie object of our nussion. They were very merry 
 and very fair barterers, were bold and inclined to sky- 
 lark ; but the women were very timid, and apparently 
 modest, and when they saw me endeavour to sketch their 
 faces, tuniea their heads away (and I was going to say 
 blushed). They were dresseii in skins niatle from the 
 intestines of the seal, and trirnmecl with bird'.s feathers, 
 red and black ; their hair was plaited in two plaits, and 
 they were Sre, healthy, fresh-looking girls, and wore 
 breeches and boots the same as the men. A fog coming 
 on made them depart quicker thai; they |tieased. 
 
 Arrived off the RusM^n settlement of Fort St. Michael, 
 in l^ortcn Soiind, which we found in contmand of a ser- 
 geant. Her? we camo to obtain intei-preters and dogs. 
 Of the former we could only get ;, Ruwsi.'^n, who R[K>ke 
 
ESCAPE PROM WRFCK, 
 
 22^ 
 
 kficltael, 
 f H ser- 
 (i dogs. 
 
 sonr.e Spanish. His wife wished to acooinpaiiy him 
 (natikrallv enough), and the parting scene on the beach 
 was very affecting ; f?nch rubbing of noses and cheeks, we 
 tho'ig'ht it wovild never cease ! 
 
 Passed tiiroMgh the Straits of Behring, the smallest 
 space between Asia and America, not more than forty- 
 five miles ! And here, on *he Diomede Isles, our ship 
 was nearly lost, and Eatmanofl' had well nigh been in- 
 habited, [n a dense fog, on a Sunday, the land was seen 
 towering altx>ve the mastheads, and the surf roaring 
 against the cliffs, not a cable's length from the ship. She 
 was quickly put about, and out of danger; but had it 
 been during the night nothing could have saved her, for 
 no one would have thought of looking for land *' up ia 
 the sky " . - 
 
 A sliort time -j/ier, the grandest meteor tliat I suppose 
 the finnament ever produced shot from N.E. through the 
 planet Venus ; it lit r.p the whole heavens for an instant, 
 burst like a rocket emitting- Roman candles, and left a 
 tpain of light in its track, A grander thing cannot be 
 imagined ; you can only see it to form an idea of it ; to 
 Ae«cril)e it ie impo^ssible, 
 
 ArrivinjT, after a four months' voyage, at Chamisso 
 Island, Kotzebu»? Hound, the marks left there by the 
 Blo8K<>m twenty-four years since were plainly visible. 
 A few natives were teen, but after a short, interview, in 
 which the interpretftr coold not make them iindei'stand 
 him, they decamped, haviivg still, no doubt,, an impres- 
 sion of the la«t, vi«it of the Bhf<^m, when a native wag 
 kill«d in an atfray with oo* of her boat's crews. 
 
 A post was fixed on the highest part of the island, 
 
 g 2 
 
228 
 
 THE SEAKCU. 
 
 •i I 
 
 11 •\ 
 
 bearing an inscription for the guidance of any coming 
 after us. Many carved their names on this post. Mine 
 was on a Spanish real, and others on copper coins, driven 
 between the splits of the wood at the head of tlie mark ; 
 and a bottle was buried ten feet magnetic north. We 
 knew all these would be interesting introductions to any 
 who might first examine it after our departure. 
 
 Our search was now commenced in right earnest. 
 The whole of the American coast was traced, boats sent 
 into every inlet and creek, and every native communi- 
 cated with, to endeavour to gain some information of our 
 missing countrymen. Summer was now on the wane. 
 Snow commenced falling. The natives had left their 
 tents for their " yourts," or winter quarters under ground. 
 Winter was fast approaching, and not much time was 
 left In one of these inlets, " Spafarief," I was sent to 
 find, if possible, some natives ; after tracing the inlet for 
 some miles, seven baidars were espied with natives, who, 
 on seeing us, stood up in their boats, stretched out their 
 arms, gave a " hee," and rubbed their bellies, in token of 
 friendship and welcome. They had been seal-fishing ; 
 but when they saw us approaching the village, followed 
 and accompanied us, racing, throwing their spears and 
 arrows, picking up the birds shot by us, as the boats pro- 
 gressed ; their spears were shod with flints, and they 
 threw them with dexterity and precision, and made their 
 " kyaks " (which are a light framework with a seal-skin 
 stretched tight over, having only a hole large enough for 
 a man to sit in) fly again through the water. 
 
 Our Rushian interpreter was here informed by an old 
 man, that he had heard from a person who had just 
 

 
 < 
 
 a. 
 
HUGE HOMES. 
 
 229 
 
 arrived from the head of the Buckland river, that " he 
 had seen a party of men dressed like sailors, with aa 
 officer, having a gold band on his cap and brass buttons. 
 'Ihey had come from a main body, who were further 
 inland, and had bought up all the venison ; they could 
 not speak, nor make themselves understood to ar^y of the 
 natives ; the spot where they are is ten days' jouniey 
 from this overland, but a boat could reach it in a very 
 short time." 
 
 It was difficult to know what conclusion to come to 
 about this strange story, so " waited awhile." 
 
 Nearly all the natives seen had sore eyes, and wore 
 wooden spectacles with a slit in them, to protect the eyes 
 from sand and snow ; they also had the cheek or lip 
 ornaments of jet black, in the shape of a stud, worn on 
 each side of the lower lip, and really looked horrible, 
 especially when the incisions had been newly made. 
 
 Returned on board immediately to report our story. 
 
 Boats were immediately sent away to gather more infor- 
 mation, and to confirm our former report. 1 hey could 
 not find a single native, but they were fortunate in col- 
 lecting on the Escholtz Cliffs many fossil remains of the 
 mastadon and Siberian ox — tusks, teeth, parts of skull, 
 some with the hair on ; one tusk alone weighed 243 Iba 
 These animals are long since extinct, and, as they were 
 of Siberia, are supposed to have come to the American 
 coast in ice-drifts many years since. 
 
 The cold was now getting very severe. As the water 
 was poured on the decks to wash them it froze. We 
 were all getting benumbed and paralyzed with its inten- 
 sity. After being three and a half years in the tropics, 
 
230 
 
 FUNHRAL AT SEA. 
 
 E! <:' 
 
 and suddenly transported, unprepared, to within the 
 Arctic circle, we felt the change most severely, and now 
 concluded that it was high time to retrace our steps. 
 
 After many arrangements had been concluded we 
 made a. final start, and were literally blown out of the 
 straits in a snow storm, passing close to, but without 
 seeing, the rock on which we wore so nearly leaving our 
 ribs. East Cape and the mountains of Siberia were very 
 grand ; the former covered with a deep red sorrel ; the 
 latter with snow. The deep fissures and caves in East 
 Cape, hollowed out by Arctic gales for years past, made 
 it appear very imposing. 
 
 On our pasfiago to Petropavlovskoi, we had a grand 
 view of all the lofty mountains, perpetually covered with 
 snow, forming the south coast of Siberia, and it is, in- 
 deed, a scene of extreme grandeur ; the evening before 
 anchoring, we had again to perform the sad ceremony of 
 committing to the deep one of our shipmates. He was 
 a great loss to us all. Many a dull, cold, and dreary 
 evening he assisted to pass away. He had many good 
 qualities, with one only sin, which brought him to an 
 early grave. He had lived " a rough life and a merry 
 one." He had now gone to rest — where all must soon 
 follow — as " life is but a span." 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 PKTROPAVLOVSKOI. 
 
 A FUNERAL OlJR TIIKATKICALH — TIIK IlANCK — HAN III.AH — OUB NIH- 
 
 rORTIINE — IMl'tDENT INTRUSION - SCl.BVV — 8ANDWICU I8LE8 
 
 TABOO orr. 
 
 " It seems ns if these regions by the will 
 Of Heaven transfixed, all at once stood still ; 
 And the proud waves, beneath the fatal blow, 
 Had spread into a field of lifeless snow ! " 
 
 Anchored again in safety off the town of Petropav- 
 lovskoi, at the foot of the 8now-cappcd summits of 
 Awatska and Villinchinskoi, which were now found 
 burning and smoking, melting the snow on their sum- 
 mits, and lending to the scene at night an appearance of 
 awe and grandeur. 
 
 The first object that attracted my attention on shore 
 was a child's funeral. The child was placed in a cigar 
 box, garnished with coloured papers, the mother carrying 
 the box, the little brother leading with the lid, the father 
 bringing up the rear, and going along the road at a very 
 brisk pace. These three alone comprised the funeral. 
 Next day the mother died. She had many following 
 her remuns, among whom were three priesti ; the face 
 
ild2 
 
 A FUNERAL. 
 
 
 
 of the corpse was left uncovered in the coffin, so that 
 her friends might see her. All the town followed her to 
 tlie cemetery. 
 
 It was now our turn to show the Kamstchadales how 
 much we appreciated their united efforts on a former 
 occasion to make our visit agreeable. From the Lieut- 
 Governor the largest room in the town was obtained, 
 and furniture, including three fiddles ; for it was feared 
 that the motion of the vessel would spoil the evening's 
 amusement for the ladies. It was our intention to firat 
 jjerform theatricals, and then make the stage into a ball- 
 room, dancing in character. The room was adorned 
 with flags, lanthorns, &c., and sixty names were enrolled 
 on our invitation list, I had endeavoured throughout 
 the day, which was a stirring one for me, to learn a few 
 Kamstchadale words, which might be of use during the 
 evening's amusements ; but when I found out that 
 " pocorum-blodherue " was " thank you," and " devil " 
 was " nine," I gave up all idea of studying the lan- 
 
 guage. 
 
 Long 
 
 before the appointed hour our friends com- 
 menced dropping in; but at seven precisely, the go- 
 vernor and suite arrived, and were seated in the dress 
 box. The national anthem was played, which happily 
 was the same for both nations. The bell mng — prepare ! 
 rang again. The curtain rose ; and there were we, in all 
 shapes, sizes, and dresses, the gaze of a foreign public 
 audience. • 
 
 The play, selected from Fielding's most attractive, 
 was commenced. The three first rows of chairs were 
 occupied by the ladies, the gentlemen behind ; and the 
 
OUR THEATRICALS. 
 
 233 
 
 go- 
 less 
 
 windows of the house, which were low, and purposely 
 left open, were thronged with persons who had never 
 witnessed such a thing before, and most probably never 
 would again. The audience, although not knowing one 
 word .we said, evidently understood the plot, and a con- 
 tinued smile was on their pretty faces. Scene after 
 scene pleased them more and more, and their compliment 
 afterwards was very good i they said, " There was no oc- 
 casion to know the language, for they could tell by the 
 action what was going on.' A Spanish fandango finished 
 the piece, when the Doctor made a concluding speech in 
 French (which many understood), and, 'mid loud cheers 
 anil applause, the curtain dropped. The ladies were 
 handed into the tea-room, and in five minutes our 
 theatre was a ball-room 
 
 The quadrille formed, our worthy and smiling chief 
 leading off with the Governess, when all others followed. 
 The arrival of the packet from Otchosk added two belles 
 to the party ; and also were present the three priests 
 and their wives, one of whom was an immense w^oman. 
 The Governor, seeing I could waltz a little, says, *• Danse 
 avec la grande dame ?" " O yes," says I, " avec beaucoup 
 de plaisir." So myself and Grande Dame had about 
 fifteen round turns. It resembled much walking round 
 with the capstan ! < 
 
 Supper was announced ! They could not imagine 
 where such a spread was obtaincnl. And it surprised 
 the gentlemen to see us sit down the ladies Jirst, and 
 provide for them ; here they are kept at a distance. 
 This occasion convinced them (if such was necessary) 
 how high, in our estimation, were those dear objects of 
 
234 
 
 TUU DANCE. 
 
 f 
 
 I ; 
 
 >.'> 
 
 man's happiest existence. I must be vaiu enough to 
 say that I think the ladies gave us credit for it too. 
 
 I was nearly passin*; over two of my young and 
 amiable friends, and I would never have forgiven myself 
 for 80 doing. Clarissa and Helena, if they were not the 
 belles, they were the most graceful and lady-like ; it was 
 the latter who kindly put my hair in curl-papers before 
 the theatricals (as I had to perform a lady's part, and re- 
 quired " ringlets ") ; and it was her affectionate and kind 
 mamma who made the " bohea," but unfortunately forgot 
 the milk. The gentlemen were left to their suppers, 
 and those who preferred a dance, like myself, commenced 
 again, and were compelled to keep the dances going in 
 quick succession, for, in the intervals, none could talk 
 Russian to their partners, nor they English to us. And, 
 indeed, some often thought it were better we did not, for 
 many a heart may have l i found wanting a small por- 
 tion, and many a promise made in haste that could never 
 be fulfilled. We smiled, and they smiled in return, 
 which was sufficient to convey the feeling of a perfect 
 state of happiness on both sides. At three, A.M., after 
 some quick dances, reels, jigs, &c., all parted — not before, 
 however, they had drunk our healths in a bumper of 
 champagne, with an earnest wish for our safe return to 
 their harbour next season ! 
 
 The happy ship was soon off again on another long 
 sea voyage, with a westerly gale after her ; nothing 
 occurred on the passage but a heavy N.W. gale, which 
 stove our quarter boat, and kept us rolling to such an 
 extent that neither tea nor cocoa could be boiled for some 
 days. We also saw the barren rock of Guadaloupe, and 
 
BAN BLAS. 
 
 235 
 
 again arrived at Mazatlau, and found it decidedly im- 
 proved since last visit, merchants returning, and people 
 living a little more at ease. A Chinese hotel had been 
 commenced ; Smithe was still himself, his pins and 
 ginger-beer good, and in constant practice. Warm baths 
 had been erected ; and at almost every other house 
 dmiug the evenings the guitar or piano were heard 
 inviting you to a *• tertulia." 
 
 The gold diggings had now been discovered close 
 where we anchored at San Francisco,* and several thou- 
 sands were going there through California. Shi})s were 
 losing their crews in great numbers, and it was with dif- 
 ficulty we could keep ours together. This hastened our 
 departure, and we sailed, touching at San Bias, but only 
 remaining sufficient time to allow our old and attentive 
 friends the mosquitoes and sand-flies to gather on us and 
 then take them to sea. They were always on the look- 
 out. " When you kill one, twenty will attend the 
 funeral." 
 
 Passing along our old ground, over whu h we had so 
 often travelled, we arriveil at Cape Blanco, and here all 
 thought we were never going to leave it. Calms, light 
 airs, and adverse currents, made us almost stationary, 
 until one Simday, when we thought we were going to 
 get a squall, all hands were sent aloft to furl the small 
 sails, and, when in the act of rolling up, found it was an 
 immense school of porpoises coming along the water. 
 One impudent fellow on the yard says, " Let us pray. 
 
 * Where the ship anchored in three fathoms, piers were now 
 built, and houses^ stores, &c., run out on them. San Francisco 
 is now a city. 
 
236 
 
 OUR MISFOUTUNE. 
 
 May we never be frightened by a shoal of porpoises 
 again." Another, worse, and anxious to quote the Scrip 
 ture, observed : " The Scripture moveth us in sundry 
 places." "That's not correct," replies Jack, alongside 
 him ; " for last Sunday ut the same hour we had divine 
 service here, and we have not moved from the spot 
 since. I see the same peak and the same bluff." 
 
 Again drop anchor in Panama Bay 1 Always very 
 unfortunate ! AV e go to one place, and find they are at 
 war, and ail gone into the country ; to another, and find 
 them all bound to the diggings ; to a third, and our bills 
 are at a fearful discount ; to a fourth, it is " Lent ;" and 
 now come here, cholera is raging ! No communication 
 with the shore ; no fresh meat ; no vegetables ! Again 
 we had to anticipate the news of twelve months. Our 
 last letters were so full of woe, that we now almost 
 dreaded the arrival of the mail. It will be recollected 
 what fatal news, after several months' absence, was 
 brought to us all ; and we now dreaded a repetition. 
 
 Shifting over to Taboga (the isle where all had passed 
 their last evening before sailing for the north), away 
 from cholera and California gold-seekers. Here we 
 found that the man who had kept a small aguadient^ 
 shop on our last visit, had just been arrested and carried 
 off to Panama prison, recognised as one of the boat's 
 crew who had murdered our friends at San Francisco, 
 my young friend the pale youth, Montressor, and other 
 officers, and then threw them overboard ! He had mar- 
 ried, and set up a small dram shop at the quiet little 
 isle of Taboga. He now awaits his trial for murder and 
 piracy. 
 
 
\_ 
 
 IMPUOENT INTRUSION. 
 
 237 
 
 , Our visit was very short, merely for water, and sailed 
 again on our tour to the Coast of Chiriqui, in Central 
 America, Here, again, we came in for the season of the 
 northers, which blew with much violence for five suc- 
 cessive days ; then a lull ; and tlien another blow ; and 
 so on. 
 
 The town of Pedrigal, at the Port of David, wna 
 visited. It is some distance in the interior, and our 
 arrival very much surprised them all, for the ship had 
 come from Panama, where the cholera was raging, and 
 should have been in quarantine. (A vessel was at that 
 moment at the mouth of the river with the Lord Bishop 
 and many ladies on lx)ard, doing pratique). When 
 the Governor heard of our impudent intrusion (without 
 leave), he was going to imprison us, then to assemble the 
 militia and eject us by force. And this latter we were 
 preparing to repel with sticks and shillelaghs, when it 
 was peaceably and amicably arranged by one of the 
 party handing in a certificate (properly certified before a 
 magistrate) that we had not communicated with Panama 
 last. This was given to the Governor and grand politico, 
 who were satisfied ! (What will the Bishop say, forty 
 miles off, we thought to ourselves.) 
 
 Pedrigal is a pretty town, having a charming, 
 healthy, climate, a temperature of forty-five degrees, 
 8urrou!)ded by ranchas (farms), and cattle innumerable. 
 The people are very hospitable, and had already com- 
 menced making parties for us ; but our time was very 
 short, and could only thank them for their good inten- 
 tions, and then returned through the same intricate and 
 tortuous passage. All mangrove trees ; nothing what- 
 
•238 
 
 SCURVY. 
 
 I " 
 
 :l 
 
 Si 
 
 1>.| 
 
 over for a guido. Our pilot ha<l already jumped over- 
 board when the boat grounded, not ktjowing the 
 Davigation of the rivti-, and fearing being shot. Hftte 
 we were for once fortunate, and obtained plenty of fresh 
 meat, of which all were greatly in want. The scurvy 
 had already appeared, and the efiect on some was such, 
 that on pressing the linger into tlie flesh of the arnris or 
 legs, the flesh woxtid not return to its proper foiTn, but 
 lea\*« an indentation. One nitm in particular used to 
 aitiuso himself Avriting, or rather pressing his name on 
 his ann, and seeing how long it wouKl take to rctiini 
 to its natural form. 
 
 The prosjKict of the Sandwich Islea now gladdexned 
 our hearts, and revived our spirits, and adieu h f^aid to 
 this part, of the coaist <.>f America, with a real ho))e of 
 not. again seeing it. for Gome time. Already we were 
 beginning to feel the effects of Western America; the 
 sudden change to the Arctic regions, and the iengr.hened 
 cririse, all combined, were fast telling on our coB^5ti- 
 tutions ; but we dare not murmur ; oiir search must be 
 continued, and for any of us to leavft it, would be to 
 desert a cause in which the whole woxld v:ere, at that 
 moraent, an.^iously looking. On leaving this coast, our 
 dei'oted ship was twenty days in a oaira. Nearly three 
 weeks all panting for breath, under a burning sun ; and 
 unless shoals of porpoises, albicore, dolphin, atid other 
 fishes had not afforded daily some little amusement in 
 catching then>, 1 don't know what we should have done. 
 The excitement of liarpooning these passed away many 
 an hour. ' 
 
 The moment of our arrival in the lieavy rains the ship 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
.SANDWICH ISI.KS. 
 
 2:iy 
 
 leaked throughout; th^^ro was not a dry sfKjt in her her 
 decks slirunk from the jjorchiiig suns, and now the rains 
 poured through, and our prayers wero constantly for the 
 E.N.E. tradea 
 
 The lofty peak of Owhyhee, the island on which the 
 ilhistrious navigator, Cook, lr>8t his life, cheered us up, 
 and "jor pa<ised Mowee, wher^" cascades falling from 
 high precipices, made it even refreshing to J»eho!d. 
 Soon we anchored off the town of Honolulu, on the 
 lsh\nd of W'oahoa, imd in an instant were surrounded 
 by Kaniks^s imploring " waa'i clothes;' "I first man 
 speak i\ you sar;' "that man not mend hole sar;" in 
 fact, a repetition of the Singapore linen -bleachers and 
 iinen-destroyei-s I 
 
 The harbour is formed by coral en either side, liaving 
 but a narrow passage through. '1 he ships are towed up 
 to this, and then by lines on shore are w»r{,)ed by 
 numbers of Kanakas to the inner anehoiage. 
 
 Ovir visit here was very short, but, nevertheless, masde 
 the very inoBt of, and had an op|K)rtunity of sf^eing tA*e 
 '■'■ taVioo" taken off for a short time, and evfcry giri mlnn 
 is mistress of a tlollar borrows or hires a horst-*, anrl 
 away they all ride nstride for miles in ihe country, 
 decorated with flowers, and dressed in all gaudy ocilours. 
 We all get horses as well, and enjoy the ride also, in 
 clouds of dust. First going to Wiatitti, much celebrated 
 for its syllabub, and then to the Parti which is a deep 
 gorge between two hdls, having a beautiful waterfall. 
 It was surprising to see how madly the females rode 
 through the country, without guardians ; they love to 
 be ot) horselKick, and tlnnr first earnings are always 
 
240 
 
 TABOO OFF. 
 
 devoted to the purcliase of a horse (which are here 
 cheap), and it becomes the first piece of household 
 furniture. In tlio evening the "taboo" again com- 
 mences, when all is as quiet as death, not even a sound 
 is heard ! 
 
 A "lewhow" was given by a celebrated doctor, but 
 unfortunately all were imder sailing orders aird could 
 not attend. We have heard they are delightful partiea 
 
 Again, orders are received for a second voyage north 
 on a similar errand to our last year's cruise ; bidding 
 farewell to the residents of Honolulu, leaving the best 
 impressions on us for their open-hearted, generous, and 
 kind attentions. This second voyage commenced with a 
 repetition of our many deaths, and the service has to 
 mourn the loss of a young and promising officer, who 
 met an early death from fever, caused by exposure to a 
 tropical sun. He was but sixteen years of age, and a 
 special favourite. How truly he may be said to have 
 "faded away like grass," which "in the morning is 
 green and groweth up, but in the evening is cut down, 
 dried up, and withered !" 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 SECOND VOYACK XOUTll. 
 
 KAMHTCHATKA THK HAMJTK SHIP ON A H<HK KXTHAOKIMN ART 
 
 LATITUI>K— I'lIK UABRIKR MAKKNZIK RIVKR A UlttCOVKRt 
 
 BUCKI.AM> RIVER — UX'dK IIONK.H — A V 11,1, \<5K - DANCK - A (MRTII 
 
 TIIK AI'ROKA -HNARKS — NATIVK l)KAWINt;H — I'OHRII.S— THK 
 
 BNO-FEARFIII, ACt'inENT — CVT THE Til AIN — BATTENED llOWN 
 — UNTIMELY EISIJ, 
 
 The strong N.E. trade soon took us clear of tho Sand- 
 wich Isles, and all looked fonvard to a return there with 
 much pleasure. A long monotonous voyage waa again 
 passed through, wuh scarcely anything to amuse but 
 patching together warm clothing, for another search in 
 the ice. The approach to land was again indicated by 
 logs of drift wood, lummies, dovekies, and a land bird 
 or two, and the morning following the peninsula of 
 Kamstchatka was seen in all its splendour, corered 
 with snow. A fresh breeze came oflf the land, bringing 
 numbers of birds to visit us. In the evening it in- 
 creased to a gale, but before mommg was again a calm ; 
 and soon after found ourselves working up the Bay of 
 Awatska ; anchoring oflf the cemetery, near the pretty 
 little town of Petropavlovskoi. Here lay a Thumes 
 Yacht Club schooner, on her way to assist m relieving 
 the Polar Blxpedition, and as she is now alwnt to 
 
 R 
 
g4S 
 
 THE SALUTE. 
 
 I 
 
 accompany us, I will leave her interesting and strange 
 history for another period, and repair to the shore to see 
 all our young and old friends. 
 
 They are all idivu I Jolly as *' sand boys," and as 
 good humoured as ever, but much disappointed at 
 finding our shi[) was to be off so soon again. Tlu^ 
 instantly made us delicious cups of tea, from large brass 
 urns, which are constantly hissing and boiling in l^e 
 centre of the room, with a red hot iron heater inside. 
 Wo had only now, on our third visit, found out the 
 Kamstchadalo "salute," and were soon apt scholars at it 
 The gentleman uD'ers his right cheek to the lady, then his 
 left, then both lij)8 mw3t— the salute is complete. In tip- 
 top society the gentleman kisses the lady's hand, and 
 then offers his right cheek. At this salute, ^>'«f, l)eing 
 Irish, I was a little awkward, l)ut it soon grew on me, 
 and I think I performed it as gracefully and as gallantly 
 as my friends, after a little practice. 
 
 Our stay here was indeed short — How do you do? 
 Good-bye ! in the same breath — but an accident occurred, 
 while working out of the bay, which had well-nigh made 
 us residents for a short period at Petropavlovskoi. 
 
 The ship struck on a rock. Anchors were laid out, 
 but the cables parted ; boats hoisted out ; fresh water 
 pumped out ; and everything done to start her : but she 
 was immovable ! Imagine, then, the feelings of a captain 
 under such circumstances ; on such a mission, and to 
 h >ve his ship lost ! The vessel now bumped heavily ; 
 the false keel and forefoot came up alongside ; every 
 moment all expected a hole in the ship's bottom. Two 
 hours of anxiety were thus parsed ; and auob a two hours 
 
SUIi' ON A UUCK. 
 
 243 
 
 of suspense never can be forgotten. Tlie slightest swtU 
 setting in, we knew the ship must go to pieces that 
 instant. The tide commenced flowing ; tlie hawsers 
 were again maimed ; " Heave, ye devils ! " roared our poor 
 captain ; and, with tears starting in his eyes for joy, he 
 screeched, "She's off!" We were once more in deep 
 water. 
 
 This circumstance compelled us that night to remain 
 at anchor, fearing the vessel had sprung a leak. Next 
 day we were off; and, passing through Behring's Strait, 
 we ha<l plenty of company- — whale ships of every nation 
 and in every situation, " trying out," " cutting in," 
 " harpooning," &c. — and Ratmanoff and Kruzenstern 
 Islands were *^assed under more favourable circumstances 
 than on our Inst cruise, when we so uuarly ran on the 
 former in a dense fog. 
 
 At Chamisso Island once more the ship arrived, and 
 we were overjoyed at finding one portion of our lost 
 friends — not, I am sorry to say, a part of the lost " Polar 
 expedition," but our co-operator in the anxious and 
 arduous search in the Arctic Sea. It was with much 
 pleasure wo filled our consort with provisions and every- 
 thing she stood in need of. , 
 
 Our old friends from Spafarief Inlet came to see us, 
 and to barter their skins and curios for knives and 
 tobacco. They were very friendly, but had no news this 
 time ; and now we were a little cautious, as their last 
 report was a complete hoax to gain a reward. After 
 minutely examining them, no strangers had been sem 
 this season. 
 
 Both ships started for Icy Cape as soon as possible, 
 
 R 2 
 
1- i 
 
 if 
 
 19 
 
 241 
 
 HTBANUE LATITUDE. 
 
 our friend and consort leading, under a tremendous press 
 of sail, bruising tho waters, piougliing the waves up under 
 her bows, and catching them on her forecastle like a 
 " cup and ball." And here, joined by our Thames Yacht 
 Club schooner, all made a fresh start north, and said 
 within ourselves, " May God preserve us ! " 
 
 All the boats now departed to search every nook and 
 inlet blong the shores, to endeavour and trace something 
 of the lost expedition. 
 
 ^.t midnight, all assembled on deck to witness the sun. 
 Semi-diameter above the horizon, it appeared like a 
 " golden ball." Very few have an opportunity of seeing 
 such a sight, and none can imagine the splendour except 
 those who have. We may safely and truly say, the " sun 
 never set." We had now reached the farthest north 
 latitude of any vessel hitherto (Cook, &c.), and next night 
 at midnight obtained the singular fact of a latitude by 
 the meridian altitude of the sun under the Pole, giving 
 the latitude 72° IC North. Thus :— 
 
 o / // 
 
 Iiifirior Mcr. Alt. 1 r,0 30 o 
 
 3 37 Dip. 
 
 1 
 
 32 33 
 
 13 46 Sdr. 
 
 1 
 
 36 47 
 
 20 20 Cor. 
 
 I 
 
 90 
 
 16 27 
 
 91 
 
 16 27 
 00 Dec 
 
 72 
 
 16 27 Nor 
 
THK BARRIKR. 
 
 246 
 
 This was so extraordinary and so rare an occurrence, tliat 
 I quote it in full : — 
 
 " The Arctic sun rose broad above the wave ; 
 
 The breeze now sank, now wliisiiered from his cave ; 
 As on the .Eolian harp, his fitful wings 
 Now swcll'd, now flutter'd, o'er his ocean "trings." 
 
 The whole week was beautifully fine, and we did not 
 progress much, but were visited frequently by baidars of 
 natives, "who embraced and rubbed noaea" — not an 
 agreeable process, by any means. They were very friendly, 
 both males and females. The latter were not bad-looking 
 at all, but required to be well scraped and scrubbed 
 before looking passably clean or pleasing. They had no 
 news whatever for us. 
 
 Arrived off the barrier ; and here the scene was 
 lovely in the extreme, sailing through large masses of 
 ice, disturbing walruses and seals ; eider ducks forming 
 in long and curious lines in the air — the walruses 
 grunting and gambolling among the detached pieces of 
 ice, while the males were fighting and slashing the 
 water, extremely jealous of each other. Whales also 
 spouting in every direction. 
 
 Arriving as far north as it was prudent to go, here 
 our boats were sent on a long, dangerous, and hazardous 
 voyage to the Makenzie Kiver, to search the coast on the 
 north of America. At midnight they parted (though 
 quite daylight at the time), and passing under our stem, 
 they had not only " three cheers," but tliey were cheered 
 till all were hoarse, until there was not another screech 
 left in us. Just as they shoved off, the zodiacal light 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
246 
 
 MAKENZIE RIVER. 
 
 was seen to perfection, oasting a purple and greeninh 
 shadow or glare over everything, the brightest perpen- 
 dicular ray shooting about twenty degrees into the 
 heavens. A dense fog soon followed, and we lost sight 
 of everything ! We heartily wished our explorers suc- 
 cess, for they had to travel 800 miles in open boats. 
 
 Our ship was now closf; against the pack of ice, like a 
 wall, and through which there appeared no opening 
 whatever. Wc were 100 miles north of Point Barrow, 
 and had sailed out of all published charts. The suu set 
 this evening both strange and threatening, throwing a 
 glare all round resembling that of copper leaf. 
 
 All the coast of America, and the icy barrier l)eing 
 searched, stood across to the shores of Asia, passing 
 many dead whales, on which staffs with flags were 
 erected, and holes cut in the animals, in which bottles 
 were inserted, containing notices for the guidance of any 
 of the lost expedition. In cutting into these animals, the 
 smell was most sickening. A sailor's stomach is acknow- 
 ledged to be very strong, and proof against all attacks, 
 but this completely overpowered them. Soon after a 
 gale sprung up, which, in this shallow water, agitated 
 the sea very much, several waves breaking completely 
 over the vessel, and wetting everything through ; and 
 now again the effect of cold was severely felt by all ; it 
 penetrated to our very bonea i 
 
 We were soon repaid for all this suffering ! there were 
 evident symptoms of an approach to an unknown land, 
 flocks of gulls, divers, young puffins, sandelings, and often 
 land birds like linnets, two of which were so exhausted 
 that they were easily taken by the hand. The ice pack 
 
 I 
 
A DISCOVERY. 
 
 2t7 
 
 
 near the American shores was approached, and all our 
 hardships were now fully repaid by the mast head-man 
 singing out as loud as he could roar, " LAND O ! on 
 the lee bow" — a new discovery ! In a few minutes we 
 were all gratified by the sight of two clusters of islands. 
 A party landed on the largest, christened tlie group, 
 hoisted the Union Jack, and drank her most gracious 
 Majesty's health on acquiring newly-disoovered pos- 
 sessions, 'mid the cheers of every one ! The high land 
 observed in the distance is that supposed to be seen by 
 the natives of Jekan in clear weather from the coast of 
 Asia. 
 
 Again the coast of America was reached, passing 
 another whale which had died " on its eye" eight or ten 
 • days' since ; the nose had fallen away, exposing the 
 tongue, which was about the size of a ship's dinghy ; 
 the carcase was about ninety feet in length, and still 
 capable of producing twenty barrels of oil. Steps 
 were cut into it to ascend by, for placing a staff with 
 flag and bottle with notice. We hud to hold our noses 
 most tightly while doing so ; the smell was horrible ! 
 and would capsize the equilibrium of any stomach, how- 
 ever strong I On reaching the coast natives again 
 came off. These smoked pijx?s through the holes (cut 
 for ornaments) in their cheeks. The women bartered 
 their furs freely, taking them off their own bodies to 
 do so, exhibiting not the slightest modesty. After their 
 boats were emptied for knives, tobacco, &c., they 
 returned to the shore highly pleased. 
 
 Again we had to undergo another gale, in which 
 three guns were dismounted from the violence of the 
 
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248 
 
 BUCKLAND HIVER. 
 
 sea, and all the boats had to be hoisted in ; it was very 
 severe, and the cold and wet almost rendered us power- 
 less. The carcases of five whales were passed in one 
 day, convincing us that even for them the severity of 
 the Arctic regions was too much. Some had died on 
 their backs, some on their eye, swelling to an immense 
 size. All the searching squadron were again safely 
 anchored in Kotzebue Sound. Every spot had been 
 searched, and no traces or intelligence of our unhappy 
 countrymen 
 
 All the boats now formed a most interesting flotilla to 
 explore a river running many miles into the interior. 
 The weather being moderately fine, and many natives 
 living on the banks, a few days passed in a most agree- 
 able cruise, but ended in obtaining no information 
 whatever concerning our missing countrymen. 
 
 EXPLORE THE BUCKLAND RIVER. 
 
 As this cruise was attended with many interesting 
 Arctic scenes, it is deserving of a chapter to itself 
 
 The expedition consisted of six boats, well armed and 
 provisioned for eight days, having with us two native 
 kyaks for pilots and a Russian interpreter. The day 
 was cloudy, but every appearance of fine weather ; the 
 wind light in our favour, but soon failed, and the tide 
 beginning to flow assisted the oars. 
 
 Passing through Escholtz bay, and along the curious 
 ice cliffs which contain the great bones of the mastadon 
 and Siberian ox — huge animals long since extinct. These 
 
HUOE BOXES. 
 
 249 
 
 cliffs are dark masses of alternate layers of iee and clay, 
 containing decf^mposed animal matter, and emitting an 
 earthy and sickly effluvia, not at all agreeable ; here and 
 there a huge mass standiiig apart and erect by itself, 
 but gradually thawing and trickling down its sides, 
 fuming a mud flat underneath for the only passage 
 along the foot of these hills, which, from its softness was 
 both tiresome and unpleasant to wade through. 
 
 A.nchored for the night oflf " Eleijhant Point," where 
 there were evident signs of the natives having recently 
 left ; the skin and antlers of the deer were still fresh, as 
 well as the skulls and vertebra of the porpoise oiF which 
 they had been feeding. 
 
 Having an hour to spare before closing our awnings 
 for the night, strolled along the ice cliffs up to our knees 
 in mud, roots, ana decomposed matter. They had 
 undergone much change since our last visit, and were 
 now visibly crumbling into decay. Two molar teeth and 
 a few bones were found ; one of the former I could just 
 carry on my shoulders. (It was intended for the Dublin 
 Museum, where I believe it now is.) Darkness setting 
 in quickly obliged us to return to our boats ; the tents 
 were pitched, and all assembled around a venison pie, 
 to cut our names in it. A light north wind sprung 
 up, the moon rose, and a lovely night was the con- 
 sequence. 
 
 Our Esquimaux pilots amused us very much until 
 near eleven o'clock with singing and dancing. Their 
 song, as nearly as I can recollect, was, "HawS, — hawyft — 
 hoy a — hoia — whoop," the latter accompanied by a scream 
 and jump, the action of the dance imitative no doubt of 
 
i 
 
 250 
 
 A VILLAGE. 
 
 a severe struggle with a walrus, or deer; those who 
 made the loudest " whoop" and the highest leap at the 
 finale, were considered the best dancers. 
 
 The boats hauled off and anchored in deep .irater, 
 the rain awnings were spread, and a most comfortable 
 night passed ; but it was a strange feeling to us all 
 being out of sight of our vessel, having passed more 
 than four years and a half in her. 
 
 At day-dawn (3'40 A.M.) started with the beginning of 
 the flood tide, having a pleasant breeze from the east- 
 ward, freshening as the sun rose. There was much 
 f'ifficulty in finding a channel over the bar of the river 
 for the boats, and it occupied all the day in getting them 
 safely through, after which anchored off the village of 
 Neitawigmeot, consisting of about eleven erangs and 
 sixty natives, eight baidars and twenty kyaks ; but 
 before many minutes had elapsed, there were many new 
 arrivals, and the village increased to seventeen erangs, 
 natives with their families arriving in the baidars ; they 
 were on their way to the Salmon River, to take their 
 winter stock, but pitched here for the present, and when 
 visited by us on shore they were regaling themselves on 
 three seals they had lately taken ; the intestines were 
 blown out and spread along the bushes to dry, many 
 yards in length for holding oil ; the blubber was boiling 
 down to grease their baidars with, the remainder was 
 cooked for present use ; the children had small raw 
 strips given them by their mothers, at which they were 
 tugging and sucking with evident pleasure and satis- 
 faction. 
 
 Next morniDg the village had increased to twenty-two 
 
bcwe who 
 ip at the 
 
 ep '.irater, 
 imfortable 
 to us all 
 ised more 
 
 Tinning of 
 the east- 
 «ras much 
 the river 
 ting them 
 village of 
 rangs and 
 yaks ; but 
 many new 
 jn erangs, 
 lars ; they 
 take their 
 and when 
 nselves on 
 bines were 
 dry, many 
 as boiling 
 under was 
 small raw 
 they were 
 and satis< 
 
 H 
 
 ,wenty-two 
 
/" 
 
 
 
 C 
 
 
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 iX 
 Q 
 
 ID 
 J3 
 
 O 
 
 C 
 
 Li-. 
 CC 
 
4 
 
 QC 
 
 iX 
 
 Q 
 
 i 
 
 Z) 
 
 o 
 
 I— 
 
 UJ 
 
 o 
 cr; 
 
 DANCE. 
 
 251 
 
 erangs ; the natives numbered about 120. They had an 
 adze and saw in their possession, which they said had 
 been obtained from a Russian not a very groat distance 
 from them, who is annually visited by a party from a 
 Russian fuv establishment, with provisions and articles 
 for barter, which is carried on with these people for 
 furs, &c. 
 
 During the dusk of the evening all went on shore. T'ie 
 natives commenced dancing, all the singers formed in a 
 semicircle, the three perfonners being two men and a 
 girl. The words of the song were the same as l,3fore 
 described, with the addition of a very musical tam- 
 bourine, struck occasionally with a light stick, the 
 children chiming in with their tenor voices, and alto- 
 gether a most novel and amusing scene. When the 
 men gi. e a " whoop" they would spring up and see who 
 could jump the highest, bringing their toes almost to 
 their chin, and then, springing across the whole length 
 of the circle, would come to a dead halt, evidently 
 fatigued and profusely perspiring ! Many such dances 
 were good-naturedly performed for our amusement, and 
 it really was hard work, but I have not the power to 
 describe them in the way they were exhibited. 
 
 Next evening a "jumping match" was arranged. In 
 the long jumps we were beaten by foub feet, and we 
 had some active fellows amongst our crew ; but in high 
 leaps beat them. One native jumped (by measurement) 
 nineteen feet on a sandy beach ; they were active, mus- 
 cular fellows, full of frolic and fun, having no care, 
 nothing to think of, but the period when they are to 
 return to their winter " yourts." 
 
252 
 
 A BIRTH. 
 
 r- 
 
 During our rambles on shore we witnessed a most 
 strange occurrence. TTnder a bush not very far from 
 the village was a woman evidently in the pains of 
 labour, or, to express it more feelingly, in an " interesting 
 condition." She was lying on a deer skin, with no 
 covering whatever over her head, her husband sitting a 
 few yards off with a little girl on his knee, apparently 
 quite unconcerned. Next morning, having occasion to 
 walk the same road, the poor woman was still there, 
 having given birth to a fine child ! She had been out 
 all that night without a covering (the thermometer at 
 freezing point), a thick white frost on the ground, and it 
 was most pitiable to see her. But such is their custom. 
 "When near that interesting period the house or erang is 
 shut up, and all the family retire to the bush until the 
 event is over, when they again return to their dwelling. 
 I do not know what they do in the winter under such 
 circumstances — it was now summer. 
 
 All the boats h Adled together for the night, and it 
 was impossible that a more serene and beautiful one 
 could be, not a breath of air, scarcely a cloud to be seen, 
 and the moon just peeping over the hill, at the foot of 
 which stood the village. 
 
 These few people deser\'e a word of praise. Friend- 
 ship would hardly convey the manner in which they 
 mixed with us, as if they had known us for years ; all 
 day they were coming off and on to the boats to smoke 
 their pipes and have a " bit of fun." As for theft, I do 
 not think they knew the meaning of the word ; they 
 were not even inquisitive in their frequent visits, and 
 often appeared to feel as if intruding. 
 
THE AUROKA. 
 
 253 
 
 Not very long after retiring for the night, we were 
 " roused up" to see the " Aurora Borealis" in all its 
 splendour. To me who had not before witnessed it, it 
 was a scene of awful grandeui j tw^o horizontal waves of 
 yellow flame rolled over each other, forming an arch 
 from which shot towaids the zenith ianumerable co- 
 ruscations of liquid fire ; it stretched from Ursa Major 
 to the Pleiades, and underneath the arch was a dark 
 mass, having in the centre the moon. The sky was 
 perfectly cloudless. 
 
 The measured angle subtended by the arch was 122 
 degrees, and the elevation of the arch 38 degrees. It 
 was appropriately likened to the folds of a curtain 
 thrown over the brass arms at either side. It was the 
 grandest celestial scene I ever witnessed, and a feeling 
 of awe came over me when I first beheld it. " How 
 marvellous are Thy works !" thought I, while contem- 
 plating this stupendous scene. 
 
 " The heavens indeed declare the glory of God, and 
 the firmament showeth his handy work," I thought, as 
 my inind became overwhelmed with admiration. 
 
 All again started at daylight, leaving our village 
 friends behind, passing some storehouses in which the 
 natives place their winter stock, to protect them from 
 wolves and foxes, which crowd on the beach during 
 night. 
 
 The river now began to get most interesting, and the 
 scenery attractive. The tide favouring us, we did all in 
 our power to ascend quickly ; trees were getting thicker 
 and more lofty. The entrance of the river commenced 
 with grass and low stunted bushes ; then shrubs about 
 
254 
 
 SNARES. 
 
 the size of a gooseberry tree, a species of dwarf beech 
 and willow, and now trees as lofty as apple-trees were 
 around us. The river narrow and the water quite fresh ; 
 the same storehouses were now seen in many places, and 
 on every prominent point was found a " bird trap," 
 formed of the branch of a tree, with a whalebone or 
 running noose of sinew, and many an unfortunate owl 
 or hawk I rescued from them. Nearly every trap con- 
 tained a bird, some still alive, caught only by the leg or 
 wing-feathers. These traps are made of two upright 
 springs, having a roost across lashed on an elevated pole ; 
 across these two twigs a strong sinew is secured, having 
 three nooses of whalebone hitched to it ; the running 
 nooses are then overhauled, and the slightest touch 
 closes them ; these are also set on branches of shrubs 
 that lie in the tracks of hares, wolves, and foxes. *-' 
 
 The brushwood was now almost impenetrable, and 
 the biinks composed of dark soil easily washed away 
 by iver during heavy rains ; in the interior, level 
 
 countiy interspersed with lagoons. * • ) 
 
 At night the aurora burst forth again in grandeur 
 about twenty degrees more to the eastward; the corus- 
 cations were in the same direction, but shooting at 
 more distant intervals, more sudden and separated ; two 
 horizontal beams arched, suddenly dropping as if cut off 
 by the coruscations at right angles to the beams. As 
 night approached it changed into all manner of fan- 
 tastic shapes, moving in beams and masses to the north 
 and east, giving forth a briUiant light. 
 
 The large boats had now reached as far as was prac- 
 ticable ; any further advance would endanger their being 
 

 ■■)"" 1 
 
 
 o 
 
 L 
 X 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 CO 
 
 < 
 
 3 
 
 Cr 
 
 CO 
 
 LlJ 
 
NATIVE DRAWINGS. 
 
 255 
 
 left behind; so the small boats still advanced, a few 
 pine trees were seen lying among the long grass, 
 about eight to twelve feet long, and the timber growing 
 on the banks were twelve to eighteen inches in dia- 
 meter. A shooting party was made up, and although 
 away all night returned disappointed. 
 
 The small boats on arriving at the " Falls," met an 
 old man, a woman and boy, who were watchuig some 
 fish houses ; presents were given to them, which recon- 
 ciled them to so unusual a sight. 
 
 On our passage down the river the boats grounded many 
 times, and on arriving near the village were met r-' our 
 old friends in five kyaks, who on seeing us lif+,od their 
 paddles, spread their arms and rubbed their '■ victualling 
 offices;" we did the same, and friendship was recog- 
 nised. They came on board and rubbed noses (not a 
 pleasant salutation), smoked pipes and danced ; we were 
 then aground, and a few more kyaks having joined, an 
 anchor was laid out and the hawser manned, a tin 
 fiddle was tuned to concert pitch, a lively air struck 
 up, and the boat gradually came off; for every length 
 of the warp obtained they had their pipes filled, and 
 when anchored in deep water, four blue beads each as 
 a reward, they were highly delighted ! During the 
 intervals I made one of them sketch the game which 
 was hanging on the yard, consisting of hares, geese, 
 duck, ptarmigan, &c., and the following are fac-similes, 
 but invariably (I could not tell why) upside down. 
 . Alter arriving about fifty miles above where the 
 large boats parted, the fur trees increased in size aad 
 height as they ascended, but the river diminished in 
 
r 
 
 256 
 
 FOSSILS. 
 
 depth, and the boats had to be hauled over the falls, 
 on many occasions having only six to eight inches of 
 water. Here on each side of the river were high 
 basaltic columns of granite forming a passage for the 
 river, the tops covered with shrubs and dwarf trees ; 
 at almost ev^ry reach there was a rapid or fall of about 
 eight inches to two feet. 
 
 On arriving off the village, the kyaks parted, and 
 none of the natives could be persuaded to accompany us 
 to the ship, even with promises of axes, beads, knives, 
 and tobacco. Their wives, families, and winter stock, 
 appeared their first consideration. 
 
 On anchoring off the ice-cliffs, several erangs were 
 seen, and about twenty natives on the spot where re- 
 mains of deer and porpoises had been met with They 
 made no approach ; and it was too late for us to pay 
 them a visit, which we regretted extremely. 
 
 The weather was now assuming a rapid change, gloomy 
 on all sides, which hurried our return ; indeed, we could 
 hardly expect more fine weather after the lovely eight 
 days we had experienced. 
 
 Early weighed, and, on passing a sand-spit, saw a few 
 more erangs. None were yet moving, and we gave them 
 a passing "He he — he he — ^he." They were fast asleep. 
 A few dogs outside the tents scratching themselves. 
 
 Anchoring off Elephant Point, where our first evening 
 was passed, a party prepared for " fossil digging." After 
 an early breakfast, and preparation for a " mud lark," I 
 headed a small party. Scarcely a bone was to be found, 
 although search was made, and the face of the cliff dug 
 out with shovels. Our successful collection twelve 
 
 LL-..„. 
 
THK END. 
 
 2.57 
 
 months since had left nothing for us now. And this 
 convinced us tliat a number of years must elapse to thaw 
 and decay the ice and soil to enable the bones to collect 
 on the surface of the mud ; and it would occupy no 
 short period of summer months to melt the huge masses 
 of ice that existed there. The wash of the sea-water 
 appeared to be the greatest cause of its falling; being 
 undermined by it in many places to a consideiable ex- 
 tent. A few bones, three molar teeth, and the horn of 
 an ox, were the only rewards we had amor>g us all. A 
 dead wolf was seen ensnared in one of the traps I have 
 before described. 
 
 The boats assembled together, and all started for the 
 ship, really regretting that this unusually interesting trip 
 was at an end. Everything had favoured us for eight days, 
 the weather delightful, and our boats comfortable; and we' 
 were only sorry that this search was not attended with 
 the slightest trace that would throw a light on the fate 
 of our lost countrymen and brother officers. 
 
 Our ai-rival was hardly announced before it com- 
 menced blowing and raining, bringing most unpleasant 
 and boisterous weather, leaving scarcely time to clear 
 the boats and hoist them out of danger. 
 
 We were now flattering ourselves that this, our second 
 voyage n .;th, was to finish without a mishap, when a 
 deplorable accident occurred which threw a gloom over 
 the whole community. 
 
 As we were on the eve of parting, and it being Sun- 
 

 Hi 
 
 I* ' ■ 
 
 1^ I 
 
 258 
 
 FEARFUL ACCIDT.NT. 
 
 day evening, many of the ships' crews visited each other 
 to say farewell, perhaps for ever ! But as the last boat 
 Avas returning, by some unfortunate and inexplicabrc 
 circumstance, one of the men fell overboard. He re- 
 mained above water several minutes, and, by some mys- 
 terious mismanagement, those in the boat could not save 
 him, and he sank in only six feel water. He was^ buried 
 next day, but we could never ascertain the real facts of 
 this unfortunate occurrence. It was clouded in mystery. 
 'J he severities of winter now again hinted to us to 
 depart. 'J he gales blew strong from N.W., with hail 
 and snow ; and it was with some difficulty the ship was 
 got out of the sound. '1 he same gale concentrating in 
 Behring's Strait, as it were through a funnel, again 
 fairly bleiv us out; the land on all sides frequently hid 
 by snow and hail-storms. Our backs were turned on the 
 straits, we had almost hoped for ever! We had now 
 passed some months in it, mid gales of wind, and ice ; 
 had assisted all in our power those placed under our ca -e ; 
 had also discovered islands, and perhaps a continent ; 
 the barrier of ice had been traced from the shores of 
 America to those of Asia ; we had gained the farthest 
 north latitude of any ship known, as well as sailed the 
 farthest west ; a shoal had also been found in the Arctic 
 Sea; our whale boats had gone a distance of three hun- 
 dred miles to the Mackenzie River; and, finally, the 
 whole shores of America have been searched, including 
 rivers running fifty to sixty miles in the interior ; and if 
 Sir John Franklin or any of the lost expedition were 
 there, we would have found them also ! 'J herefore we 
 left the straits this season, knowing well all was done 
 
Lch other 
 last boat 
 xplicable 
 He re- 
 )me mys- 
 . not save 
 as. buried 
 1 facts of 
 
 mystery. 
 
 to us to 
 ■with hail 
 i ship was 
 Lrating in 
 lel, again 
 jently hid 
 led on the 
 
 had now 
 , and ice ; 
 r our ca "e ; 
 continent ; 
 
 shores of 
 16 farthest 
 sailed the 
 the Arctic 
 three hun- 
 inally, the 
 , including 
 Lor ; and if 
 lition were 
 lerefore we 
 1 was done 
 
 
 
 cc 
 
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 < 
 
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 uJ 
 
 ?! 
 
 IT/ 
 M 
 
; 
 
CUT THE CHAIN. 
 
 2r,0 
 
 that possibly could be accomplislied, and passed safely 
 through the Seguam Passa^^e of the Aleiutian Isles, 
 near Amoutcha and the "Island of the Four Moons." It 
 was a beautiful sight as the vessel " cut the chain," the 
 whole beini' covered with snow. 
 
 There was scarcely time to congratulate ourselves on 
 getting clear of the straits, when the ship was overtaken 
 by a furious gale from the north. Sunday night was an 
 awful one, '^nd the vessel had to lay to. 'J'he seas rushed 
 through the rudder coat and through the gun-room, and 
 the order was given to batten down. The main trysail 
 was even found to be too mv cb sail for the ship ; and such 
 was the fury of the wind, that it occupied all hands two 
 hours to take it in and close reef it. Next day it had 
 not moderated, and the gusts and squalls were terrific. 
 A sea struck the ship abeam, and washed away all the 
 waist netting (like paper stuff), both gangway?, and four 
 upper deck ports ; and it was some minutes before we 
 covdd recover self-possession after the shock to see if uay 
 further serious damage had b' en done. Several seas 
 struck her after this, going completely over all, without 
 any apparent effect except shakin-:: the chains much. 
 
 Once more " bore up," the barometer at 28° i)7', and 
 congratulated ourselves on again escaping the fury of the 
 storm, and offering our humble thanks to Him who 
 alone " can still the raging of the sea ;" for there were 
 '"foments many of us thought our last, in which it ap- 
 peared impossible that the timijers could rcsi.^L the fury 
 of the waves. " We were carried up to heaven, and down 
 again to the deep ; our souis melted within us." 
 
 T'wo lovely days followed, and then, as if to mock 
 
 s 2 
 
200 
 
 IJATTENKl) DOWN. 
 
 tliem, a corresponding galo to that from the north 
 followed from the south ; we lay to under stormsaila 
 and battened tho slnp down, trusting in llim who has 
 but to say, " Peace, bo still," and there will immediately 
 "be a calm." 
 
 Passing not far from San Francisco, but which we 
 were afraid to enter from the disposition of the men 
 to leave the ship for the gold diggings, came down the 
 coast of AN'^estern America, close to Guadaloupo and 
 Magdalena bay, anchoring once more in safety in tho 
 pretty harbour of Mazatlan ! 
 
 Again, as is our usual fortune, find the cholera 
 raging here, so much so, that fresh supplies of beef 
 and vegetables arc not permitted on board. 
 
 Our companion in Behring's Strait, tho Thames Yacht 
 schooner, arrives a day or two before us ; and with 
 grief it will be read that he who had so liberally spent 
 his time, his money, and hazarded his life in so humane 
 a cause, should now be snatched from us by cruel 
 death ! Tho sudden change from heat to cold, and 
 then from a thermometer of 27° to 104!°, a difference 
 of seventy-seven degrees, was more than the human 
 frame could withstand, and he sank under the effects, 
 universally and deeply regretted and beloved by all. 
 He was buried at Mazatlan ; all followed his remains 
 to the grave ; they were placed in the Protestant burial- 
 ground alongside those of the Consul's daughter, who 
 had lately died of fever. 
 
 " Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord." 
 
 His property, " ten thousand a year," was already 
 settled on his auni, and he had only sufficient power 
 
 
UNTIMULY KNI), 
 
 2GI 
 
 he north 
 
 stormsaila 
 
 wlio has 
 
 mediately 
 
 which wo 
 the men 
 clown the 
 oupo and 
 ty in the 
 
 cholera 
 3 of beef 
 
 mes Yacht 
 and with 
 ally spent 
 !o humane 
 
 by cruel 
 cold, and 
 
 difference 
 le human 
 he effects, 
 ed by all. 
 is remains 
 ant burial- 
 fhter, who 
 
 on his death-bod to express a wish "that the yacht 
 
 may be sent to iits builder in England." 
 
 Steamers are constantly arriving from all parts of 
 
 the world laden with persons "going to the diggings." 
 
 Many thousands are also coming overland from America 
 
 on mules, bound to San Francisco through California, 
 
 mcurring great hardships and privations. 
 
 As there wc c no attractions here for us, our stay 
 
 was as short as possible. Water was completed on the 
 opposite side of the Gulf of California, and sail made 
 for Guaymas, the sea-port of Mexico, leaving at 
 Mazatlan one of the handsomest razee frigates in her 
 Majesty's service, commanded by one of the moat open, 
 good-hearted, generous, and beloved men, extremely 
 kind to his officers, and adored by his ship's company. 
 However, there was no occasion for jealousy ; on our 
 part we were fortunate in having one very much of 
 the same stamp and disposition. 
 
 ^s already 
 lent power 
 
r 
 
 CIlAl'TER IV. 
 
 \ II 
 
 E^ 
 
 K 
 
 01IAYM.\S EVENING AMUSEMENTS — T1!K l)I(;GINt;S SMT'riCI.I .N(i 
 
 Tlir 1M-.VZ.\— riRST r.AM4 our I1AM< — MAZATLAN IN TK.UtS 
 
 Bllll' VISITING THE CAS A FUEBTE. 
 
 GUAYATAS, in the gulf of California, is the principal 
 scapoi u of Mexico ; it is a sort of Brighton or Hastings 
 to London ; it is here many come to inhale the pure 
 sea breeze after the burning and dusty city of Mexico. 
 This, however, a passer-by would not expect ; for to us 
 the town appeared a desolate, barren, sun-burnt spot, 
 without a hope of seeing or meeting any one to whom 
 we cou'd open our hearts, and chill them with our icy 
 advent ures. Towards the latter part of our visit it will 
 be seen how this scene was changed, and how wrong it 
 was to condemn a place by its outward appearance. 
 
 This was the holiday season here, and the Plaza was 
 nightly the scene of dancing and gambling. A slied on 
 a large scale was erected over the Plaza, and under this 
 dancing was carried on until two or three in the 
 morning ; an Indian in one corner dancing alternately 
 the pascola, the jaraby, and other Indian dances with the 
 " caskavales" on his ankles. This shed was surrounded 
 by booths and montd tables, at which nearly all 
 
EVKNINO AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 2(]3 
 
 N TIOAUS 
 
 principal 
 Hastings 
 the pure 
 f Mexico, 
 for to us 
 ant spot, 
 to whom 
 1 our icy 
 isit it will 
 wrong it 
 mce. 
 
 Plaza was 
 V shed on 
 mder this 
 in the 
 Iternately 
 with the 
 iirrountled 
 learly all 
 
 Guaymas paraded ; it had much the ajipcarance of a 
 fair, and here we frequently found ourselves prome- 
 nading until fortimately more natural, more sociable, 
 and more asfreea^le amusements attracted us. 
 
 Gambling in these booths was carried on to a melan- 
 choly extent, and many a life was sacrificed after all the 
 rest had been lost ; some of the moute tables were 
 actually conducted by females, and it was truly heart- 
 rending to see their excited ami uncontrollable feelincfs 
 when either winning or losing dollars and doubloons in 
 fives, tens, and twenties. 
 
 Robberies and murders were acted nightly by the 
 Mexican marauders, and it was quite dangerous to pass 
 through the streets alone or without firearms, after 
 the mass of persons had retired, although the serenos 
 were constantly on the watch. 'I'hese robberies took place 
 directly under their musquets ! 
 
 ■ The " nacimientos" were the prettiest and most inno- 
 cent dances I have seen ; three or four houses, with 
 large rooms, were each evening decorated and devoted to 
 these juvenile entertainments. About twenty little 
 Indian girls, beautifully dressed and adorned in ribbons 
 and flowers, danced their native dance, having a rattle 
 in one hand, and a plume of coloured feathers in the 
 other. These all went together like clockwork ; not one 
 could have been more than twelve years of age, and 
 exactly like dolls. Another dance, which I could not as- 
 certain the name of, but which I call the " barber's pole" 
 dance, was still prettier ; each girl took a riband of 
 different colours suspended from the top of a high pole, 
 and danced round it in such a manner that the ribands 
 
2t)t 
 
 True DlUCilNlJS. 
 
 H 
 
 1^1 
 
 laid themselves on tlio pole in the nicest pattenis 
 imaginable; tlie dance was then reversal], and the ribands 
 unlaid ; they sang their own music, and the choruses 
 were very sweet. Tliese lasted two or 'three hours each 
 night, and they were both astonished and glad to see 
 naval officers occasionally intrude on their juvenile 
 amusements. 
 
 Society was a little disorganized, as many parties were 
 forming to start for the diggings through California ; 
 the numbers from Guaymas alone were estimated at 
 5,000, from Petic 5,000,f>'om Loretto 5,000, from Yackie 
 6,000 ; all were to travel on mules, and each having a 
 spare one to carry his provisions, or in case of a break 
 down. They intend to pass the Colerado river at the 
 head of the gulf, and across the sandy plains, which is 
 indeed a case of life or death. If anything happens to 
 your mule you arc gone to a certainty, and the sands 
 are already covered with the bleached bones of those 
 who have left all they possessed for the chance of finding 
 gold in California. 
 
 We could not help witnessing, on many occasions, the 
 manner in which the government is duped. One or 
 two illustrations will suffice for this. A brig had arrived 
 with a cargo of "nnu cotton," an article strictly pro- 
 hibited by the customs. 'I'he officers go on board and 
 seize the ship: the captain says, "Very well, but before 
 you do so, will you have the goodness to read that ?" 
 This is a permit to land his cargo, from one of the 
 principal merchants of the city of Mexico. 'J he cargo is 
 forthwith landed. About 1,000 dollars has done this. 
 Vessels have arrived off the port, the clerks of the 
 
 % 
 
HMU(i(JHNU. 
 
 2C5 
 
 putU'ius 
 ribands 
 choruses 
 urs each 
 I to see 
 juvenile 
 
 ties were 
 lifornia ; 
 nated at 
 1 Yackie 
 laving a 
 
 a break 
 er at the 
 which is 
 ppens to 
 he sands 
 
 of those 
 )f finding 
 
 sions, the 
 One or 
 id arrived 
 ictly pro- 
 )oard and 
 )ut before 
 ad that?" 
 ne of the 
 e cargo is 
 [lone this. 
 is of the 
 
 houses to whom they are consigned have gone on board, 
 and actually made out false bills of lading, calling 
 500 bales 250, half of which is landed on the sly, and 
 the other paid duty for. Another goes to the adminis- 
 trador of the customs, and says, " I have a cargo to 
 land ; there are about 500 bales, but with a little trouble 
 I can have them made up into four in a bale ; now I'll 
 give you 4.000 dollars ("which is the duty on 125 
 bales)." " Very good," says the administrador, and t\w 
 bargain closes. 'Jhe customs make 2,000 dollars, and 
 send the other 2,000 to the city, and the merchant 
 makes, or rather saves, 2,000 more, and thus work into 
 each other's hands. Half a vessel's cargo had been 
 landed (in our presence) by her own boats, while the 
 custom-house officers liad been purpo.sely invited to a 
 ball, and liberally treated. No one knew anything of 
 the occurrence but a few of ourselves, who could not 
 avoid seeing it. These are every day occurrences, and 
 thought nothing of. If the governor is inclined to be 
 " rusty," a petition is sent to head quarters, and he is 
 immediately recalled, and a more vjorthy takes his 
 place. 
 
 The climate of Guaymas is healthy, and delightfully 
 cool, sometimes too much so, at night ; the dew very 
 heavy sufficiently so to lay the dust completely for the 
 coming day ; the sea breeze sets in regularly between ten 
 and eleven in the forenoon, dying away again at five, six, 
 or sun-set ; this is the cool and pleasant season (January 
 and February), but the residents look forward with 
 dread to the summer months, June, July, August, when 
 the heat they say is insufferable, and no person, male or 
 
2(;(i 
 
 TIIK Vh.\Z\. 
 
 is;. . 
 
 l:^ 
 
 ! i^ ' 
 
 i 
 
 r»'inal(!, 1)1(1 or J'oung, daro vontiiro to slei^p under Jhn 
 roof, but bring thoir mats and pillows into tho vcran- 
 <lalis. The day is passed in bathing ! 
 
 Noarly a month had passed away in a most idle, tire- 
 some, and unprofitable manner. Tho scenes at tho 
 Plaza were at an end. The foast-diiys and nacimientos 
 of the new year had passed by. We wore tired cf tho 
 sameness, constantly walking round the booths twenty 
 or thirty times a night, and many of us now almost 
 declared we would ncjver go on shore again, when wo 
 reflected and concluded that as our stay here was to bo 
 longer than anticipated, there were still means of pass- 
 ing some really pleasant and agreeable evenings ; for wo 
 did not pass up and down that noisy Plaza without 
 noticing the light hair and light blue eyes of many a 
 pretty and attractive face. Many a smile was inter- 
 changed, but our innate bashfulness would not permit of 
 our introducing ourselves ; although I must do the 
 Spanish credit for not requiring such extreme formality, 
 yet we never could sum up resolution sufficient to say 
 (in the streets) " a los pieds de usted senorita." 
 
 We unanimously decided that the only way to com- 
 mence an acquaintanceship was to give a general ball. 
 Those thon who wished our friendship would come; 
 those who did not would stay away. Scarcely had 
 we matured our plans, when invitations from the resi- 
 dent merchants came off to invite us to a ball on .shore. 
 Nothing could have happened more opportunely for us. 
 We should get an insight into their manners, customs, 
 habits, &c. ; what they liked, and what they disliked ; 
 it was delightful ! 
 
TlIK FIRST IJAI.L. 
 
 2(17 
 
 TIk; ball was iinlced a tivat — nil wiiit — ami all, 1 iit.id 
 Kcarccly adil, eiijoycd thomsolve.s, and it Hurprlsed us to 
 st'o so many protty, pleasing faces continually (Mitcrin;^ ; 
 whoro tlioy came from, we coidd not imaLjiue. .Vurely, 
 wo thought, Ouaymas coidd not contain all. 
 
 Besides our dances of (piadrillcs, waltz* s, polkas, and 
 country dances, the pascola, the jarahy, and veiiado 
 (Indian dances) were gone through, and anmsod us 
 much, especially the latter, which was danced in part hy 
 a very fat gentleman ! Tt is a very curious dance, hy a 
 lady and gentleman, but I do not think it wo\dd be 
 poi)ular in our drawing-rooms; it is illustrative of u 
 " deer-hunt." 
 
 The supper was a grand one, and champagne without 
 any limit. Some offended ladies?, who imagined they 
 had not suflicient attention .shown them, departed 
 directly after supper; the little i\Iexican pride was 
 plaiidy visible ! 'J'his was acknowledged the fault of the 
 committee, who, not expecting so many, their numbers 
 were insufficient ; hence the unintentional slights ! 
 
 Dancing was continued until three in the morning ! 
 The smallne.ss of the room was the only drawback. 
 Those who did not dance stood in the centre, while the 
 dancing continued around them. There were many 
 belles! we couid not individualize any; but those most 
 justly admired were the Casa Fuertcis (4), the Serpent, 
 Venados, and the Amber Satins (2) ; these are names 
 given them by the mids., for the present, until better 
 acquainted. They dressed neatly and costly, with 
 jewelry in great profusion. We parted that evening 
 with a full realization of all the tales of romance which 
 
I 
 
 
 11 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 \f ' 
 
 2G8 
 
 OUK 15ALL. 
 
 we had heard and read for the last five years, concerning 
 the " fair .Mexicans ! " 
 
 Our ball next followed, but we had so many now to 
 invite, that instead of having it on board ship, it was 
 concluded it should be on shore, on a smooth and 
 sheltered point, not far from the town, and a convenient 
 distance for the boats. Sixty families and forty single 
 persons were invited. 
 
 It occupied one week to erect a dancing booth, sixty 
 feet by thirty, a supper tent, a ladies' tent, and a stew- 
 ard's apartment. All that a ship could afford was 
 devoted to making these as perfect as possible ; but the 
 night preceding the ball a gale came on, and threatened 
 to tear everything from its foundation. Fortunately, 
 nothing very serious happened ; but all were in bodily 
 fear that the tents would have ascended like so many 
 balloons. Next morning, however, all was secured 
 a^ain. 
 
 The day was cool, calm, and beautiful. All the 
 tents were railed in by boarding-pikes, with lines having 
 a boat's flag flying on each, and an avenue formed from 
 the landing-place, of orange branches, lined with lamps, 
 to the entrance of the grand saloon, all protected by 
 sentries, for many had already walked from the town to 
 witness this novel scene, and among them many who 
 required looking sharply after. At noon it was all 
 right. Flags of every nation present were hoisted over 
 each tent. 
 
 The day was most inviting, lovely in the extreme ; and 
 at one p.m. nine boats were at the pier to bring all Guay- 
 mas to the gciy and festive scene ; it was three, however, 
 
cernmg 
 
 now to 
 , it was 
 th and 
 ivenient 
 y single 
 
 ;h, sixty 
 a stew- 
 )rd was 
 but the 
 •eatened 
 .unately, 
 n bodily 
 so many 
 secured 
 
 All the 
 s having 
 led from 
 1 lamps, 
 ected by 
 town to 
 my who 
 was all 
 3ted over 
 
 me ; and 
 dl Guay- 
 
 however, 
 
 en 
 
»M». II|I , ' I" 
 
 OUK BALL. 
 
 269 
 
 beforo they arrived, and the trip in the boats was not the 
 least amusing. At four the ball commenced with a 
 grand quadrille (two sets of thirty-two each). Our band 
 was a h.arp, guitar, fiddle, two flutes, and ^ tambourine, 
 which harmonized well together. We danced until 
 dark, when the supper-room was illuminated, and supper 
 commenced. Seventy-five ladies sat comfortably at the 
 table (the flags alone which adorned the cakes cost eight 
 dollars), while at supper the dancing-room was lit up, 
 put to rights, and the carpet set up taut ; ana it was 
 only now that the evening really commenced. They 
 danced with all their hearts. Quadrilles, waltzes, polkas, 
 gallopades, country dances, pascola, jaraby, and venado, 
 a song between each, not forgetting the quartette of the 
 Ultimo Adios, and the Figaro fc. Twenty-one dances of 
 the former alone were got through. At two there was 
 another supper, and then continued the dancing until 
 three, whoa we could no longer stand. We had now 
 danced eleven hours, leaving only just sufficient effort to 
 get into the boats, and, when full, a blue light and port 
 fire was burned from each prominent point. The boats 
 rowed their precious cargoes slowly along. The night 
 was cool, calm, and beautiful, all was prosperous, and 
 at four our valuable freight was safely landed on the 
 same spot they had departed from twelve hours pre- 
 viously. 
 
 Thus ended our first ball. Ihe ladies were 
 delighted ; they said they had " never seen such a dis- 
 play before," and the only thing they regretted was, that 
 " they never should again." All were " Muy allegria," 
 " Muy contento," and " Mucho sale." The same mom- 
 
i I 
 
 11, 
 
 270 
 
 MAZATLAN IN TFARS. 
 
 ing knives, hatcliots, and marline-spikos were doing thtir 
 savage \York ou our rnarfiuccs. 
 
 Here, a(j(iln, in tlie midst of our pleasiues, we hear 
 of the death of a most estimaljle and kind-hearted man ; 
 and how often wo see those who really are too good and 
 too amiable for this world taken from us to a better one ! 
 'J his is surely an illustration of the chequeicd life of a 
 sailor ; one moment amid all the temporal pleasures of 
 this world — in an instant gone to the next, either to 
 eternal misery or to everlasting happiness ! 
 
 How true it is that " in the midst of life Ave are in 
 death !" The worthy and kind captain whom T have 
 before alluded to at Mazatlan, and whom T could not leave 
 without paying a passing tribute to his worth, "khid in 
 the extreme to his officers, beloved by his men," was now 
 no more. A gloom hung all around, both on shore and 
 afloat ; to quote the melancholy words of our informant, 
 " all Mazatlan were in tears." A party had been given 
 to the residents on board this attractive frigate. Next 
 morning the captain came on deck, was taken suddenly 
 ill, and in t\yelve hours he was a corpse ; " he killed him- 
 self by kindness to others." He died, beloved by every 
 one. All we could hope was, that so good a creature 
 may be one of those select few, who at the last day 
 shall have said to liira, " Come, ye blessed of the Father, 
 inherit the kingdom prepared for you from the founda- 
 tion of the world." 
 
 The ship was now thoroughly refitted, after all our 
 buffeting with storms, rocks, and icebergs, and a little 
 paint made us again proud of our " home on the waters." 
 Many of our friends wished to see an " English frigate," 
 
SHIP visiTixn. 
 
 271 
 
 and, although the day was an unlucky one, their wishes 
 were uratificd, and the boats brought off about thirty 
 of our newly-forined acquaintances, among them the 
 offended parties at the first ball ; and we were so glad of 
 the opportunity of making our ship conciliation hall 
 when all was explained, at once accepted, and as quickly 
 forgotten. We had an afternoon of real fun, which mid- 
 shipmen alone can enjoy. Everything in the ship was 
 shown to them ; and the mids.' berth appeared to attract 
 most attention, not from its apparent incapability of 
 squeezing seventeen unfortunate mids. together, but 
 from the fact of the number of relics collected during 
 our long cruise, which seemed to please amazingly ; as 
 many as could be crammed into the berth were seated 
 (we all remained outside, and looked through the bars). 
 Our desks were opened ; the littl j relics, forget-me-nots, 
 locks of hair of those long since, I was about to say, for- 
 gotten — but forgive me — all underwent a most thorough 
 investigation. We had to account for them all, and had 
 to dress in our theatrical dresses, frocks, and lace caps, 
 which had been made on board by ourselves. If we 
 neve/ lauyhed before, we certainly made up fully on this 
 occasion for any lost time ; the screaming and laughing 
 alternately was deafening, and only ceased when our 
 kind and liberal captain sent down to say that " Lun- 
 cheon was ready, and waiting;" and although the 
 temptation was great, it was with much reluctance they 
 left the dark and dreary berth for the captain's cabin. 
 All now became serious for a short time. 
 
 Darkness only broke up our party, and our friends 
 were escorted safely on shore, and, being invited to a 
 
f 
 
 il 
 
 ii 
 
 n 
 
 272 
 
 THK CAS A FUKRTK. 
 
 house where we had not before visited, could not resist. 
 In it passed one of our most agreeable evenings ; 
 and it happened to be a house of which I shall have 
 much to say, and much to speak in favour of ; but all 
 the pens, paper, and genius, could not speak in sufficient 
 praise of this Casa FuerU ! 
 
 ! I 
 
 r 
 
 f 
 
ot resist, 
 jveninga ; 
 hall have 
 '; but all 
 sufficient 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 CASA FUERTE. 
 
 FAMILY — THE 8ALA — THIRD BALL — PAINFUL SITUATION — LAST 
 
 ADIEU — PARTING THOUGHTS — CONTRAST — PARTING LOOK 
 
 COWARDLY MURDER — HORRID CRIMES — BAILE DE CAMPO. 
 
 " Ah ! hour of parting ! oh ! what words can tell 
 The sad last accents of the wild farewell I " 
 
 This hospitable mansion was situated in a most central 
 and convenient part of the town, in the middle of the 
 Plaza, and close to the landing-place facing the " Gal- 
 latea," having two entrances, and several windows 
 guarded fortunately by iron bars, and through these 
 many a sweet word passed, and many a "Se sal6 " 
 uttered. 
 
 A few years since this hospitable rendezvous was well 
 known to every one who visited Guaymas. Scarcely 
 had a vessel dropped her anchor when a general invita- 
 tion arrived for every one to come on shore to dance, 
 and sup, and enjoy themselves, at the Casa Fuerte. 
 Death has since visited this happy spot, and robbed it of 
 its main branch ; and not until our arrival had it again 
 recommenced its byegone scenes. This interesting and 
 happy family of " light hair and blue eyes" consisted of 
 
 T ' 
 
I' I * 
 
 r iff 
 
 r\ 
 
 ' 
 
 
 27i 
 
 THE FAMILY. 
 
 four; tho eldest married, the remaining three beautiful 
 specimens of "fair Mexicans," One was of a thoughtful, 
 pensive, sweet disposition, being now and then serious ; 
 the second, young, gay, and thoughtless, exceedingly good- 
 natured and sweet-tempered ; the youngest, sedate, and 
 motherly, imparts good advice (gratis), and sweetly dis- 
 posed. First cousins of these, and frequently at the 
 casa when we visited, were the two girls I have men- 
 tioned before as the "Amber Satins;" fine, tall, quiz- 
 zical girls, good figures, and sweet-tempered ; also two 
 other second cousins, lively, larkish, pretty girls, and 
 dance elegantly. 
 
 In the almost constant company of such creatures as 
 I have attempted only briefly to describe, will it be 
 thought unnatural, or contrary to the general disposition 
 of sailors, if I acknowledge that we felt our hearts 
 gradually and perceptibly softening beneath the irre- 
 sistible glances of their soft blue, yet piercing, eyes ? 
 
 Very pleasant evenings were passed at the " Serpents," 
 where we always met the " cousins," and other agreeable 
 companions ; but in the drawing-room of the Casa 
 Fuerte were the " happiest hours that e'er we spent." 
 
 It was the prettiest movement in the world to see how 
 the dances were commenced. Of course we did not 
 wish to introduce the subiect, fearing it might be the cause 
 of trouble or inconvenience. One would shrug up her 
 shoulders, and exclaim, "Tanfrio;" another would rub 
 hor hands, and place them on yours to feel how chilled 
 they were ; a couple more would shift the small marble 
 table into a corner ; and this was a general signal for us 
 to assist. The good-natured " Lola " would commence a 
 
THE 8ALA. 
 
 275 
 
 leautiful 
 mghtful, 
 serious ; 
 rly good- 
 late, ami 
 etly tlis- 
 r at the 
 ive men- 
 all, quiz- 
 also two 
 ;irl8, and 
 
 eatures as 
 vill it be 
 lisposition 
 ur hearts 
 the irre- 
 eyes? 
 Serpents," 
 agreeable 
 the Casa 
 spent/' 
 to see how 
 e did not 
 3 the cause 
 ig up her 
 would rub 
 ow diilled 
 all marble 
 gnal for us 
 )mmence a 
 
 polka, and who then could resist ? Off we went. One 
 dance of each sort, a song between, an Indian duet, 
 and a little chat, passed awa) four or five hours in a 
 most delightful manner. 
 
 After our ball, with which they were so much pleased, 
 the people literally spoiled us ; quite unfitted us for any- 
 thing serious; and when we were seen entering " The 
 Casa," parties from the square soon followed to enjoy 
 new faces and jokes in bad Spanish. 
 
 Such was the delightful manner each evening was 
 passed ; and it was a pleasing sight to those more 
 elderly to behold us, after our dances, "pairing off," 
 some to the sofa, some to the window recesses, to talk 
 soft " blarney " (or, as they called it, " Se sal^ "), and to 
 make apologies for some whose duty prevented their 
 coming on shore. 
 
 To us, secluded as we had been from all that was 
 civilized for now nearly five years, the effect of such a 
 transition is impossible to describe ! The female loveli- 
 ness by which we were surrounded in that never-to-be- 
 forgotten " Sala " was quite sufficient to dnve much 
 less sensitive hearts than ours to utter distractioa 
 
 The time now arrived for another ball ! An attempt 
 to describe or retrace the every day acts of kindness and 
 hospitality received from the residents of Guaymas 
 would utterly fail ; but I must trust to my pen to carry 
 me through a mere outline of our "really last ball." 
 The very invitations were the prettiest things I have 
 seen; given expressly for us, couched in sweet terms, and 
 bordered with wreaths of flowers and loving couples 
 dancing the polka around the margin. 
 
 T 2 
 
270 
 
 THIRD BALL. 
 
 The room (a larger one on this occasion) was ad- 
 joining our " Casa Fuerte," and fitted in the most 
 tasteful manner imaginable, lined throughout with 
 white glazed calico (twenty -five pieces) ; pier glasses 
 hung all round ; the recesses flowered and festooned ; 
 and at the head of the room was a model of our 
 own ship, working by clockwork, plunging and foam- 
 ing in the elements (in miniature imagination only this 
 time), and underneath the name of our " happy vessel " 
 in large gilded letters, a compliment much appreciated 
 by us all. The Mexican and English national colours 
 blended together in graceful harmony over our model 
 ship. A ladies' room, a refreshment room, and next to 
 the supper-room the " Sala," where so many happy hours 
 had passed away ! Mangrove trees, hung with oranges 
 and variegated lamps, formed a pretty entrance. 
 
 The ladies were dressed very tastefully, generally lace 
 over white and coloured satins, green and yellow silks, 
 jewellery in great display, white satin shoes and salmon- 
 coloursd stockings, sashes, and one or two rosettes of 
 artificial flowers. 
 
 Supper was announced for half at one time, after some 
 
 few dances, and when they were refreshed the other half 
 
 commenced. Then dancing began in right earnest. 
 
 " Heel and toe," down the middle and up again, with all 
 
 their hearts and strength, 
 
 " These now danced who never danced before ; 
 And they who always danced now danced the more." 
 
 I several times looked round the room, and I think 
 the number of pretty faces exceeded those at our last 
 ball. 1 do not like being personal, but I could not help 
 
PAINFUL iJITUATlON. 
 
 277 
 
 vas ucl- 
 le most 
 it with 
 
 glasses 
 itooned ; 
 
 of our 
 d foam- 
 )nly this 
 ' vessel" 
 jreciated 
 I colours 
 ir model 
 I next to 
 »py hours 
 1 oranges 
 
 ally lace 
 low silks, 
 salmon- 
 )settes of 
 
 "ter some 
 jther half 
 earnest. 
 , with all 
 
 bre." 
 
 d I think 
 our last 
 not help 
 
 remarking that really the " Fuertes " looked ologaut ! 
 
 irresistibly killing ! Poor pensive, inste E , danced 
 
 her last quadrille with me ; and, if I recollect right, a 
 short waltz afterwards. I breathed (in bad Spanish) 
 vows of eternal remembrance in her ears ; declared that 
 nothing but my bond and attachment to the service of 
 my country, to whicb I was devoted, prevented me from 
 immediately settling in Guaymas, and making a loving 
 and amiable couple happy for life! She clasped her 
 hands tightly aroimd my arm, looked doubtfully in my 
 face, and I heard murmured the unmistakable words, 
 " Se sale." " Run," said she, " from your vessel, and 
 live with us as a dear brother, and lue will make you 
 happy." I endeavoured to explain the everlasting dis- 
 grace of such a rash step, with the risk of losing my 
 head also. When the quadrille finished, I was glad it 
 did. I led my partner to a sofa ; I took a " sortijo" from 
 my finger, and, placing it on hers, prayed her to accept 
 and wear it for my sake alone, and, when she gazed on 
 it, to " pensar di mi." 
 
 One young person, who was evidently a little piqued 
 at not receiving an equal share of attention to my now 
 unhappy partner, when I asked her a question, replied, 
 " She did not know me." " Oh ! " said I, " if you don't, 
 it will break my heart ! " I give her credit for her reply : 
 "Then come to me," she said, "and I will sew it up 
 again \" 
 
 Our second supper was at 2.30 A.M. Here our happy, 
 or now unhappy party again grouped together, and alter- 
 nately eat aod said sweet things, cheered and drank the 
 health of the Casa Fuertds; the girls to our pleasant 
 
278 
 
 LAST ADIEU. 
 
 Dl 
 
 i 
 
 f 
 
 : I 
 
 1 
 
 voyage. Before the supper terminated, the ladies most 
 unexpectedly presented our gallant and wortliy captain 
 with a white satin ensign, the ship's name beautifully 
 worked on its fly. Tlie " Ultimo Adios" was again sung. 
 The sentiment is so beautiful, I must here quote it, and 
 then the reader may conclude how charming must it 
 have been, sang by four fair-haired, blue-eyed Mexicans : — 
 
 "EL ULTIMO ADIOS!"— (THE LAST ADIEU.) 
 
 " Adios Virgen celestial, 
 Que en el tnundo percgrino, 
 Errado yu en mi camino 
 Mee voi & un mundo mejor. 
 
 Qucdate en par en la tierra 
 Entre tus suefios de oro ; 
 A ! no maldigas mi lloro 
 Es el postrero dc amor. 
 
 " Tu fuistcs el primer ensuefio 
 De mi ardiente fantasia, 
 Y tu seras, alma mia 
 Mi postrimero pcnsar. 
 
 Ayer tu amor fue mi vida 
 Tu desumor es mi muerte ; 
 A ! que amargo es oh ! querida 
 Sin ti k los cielos volar. 
 
 " Adios oh I muger que adoro 
 El angel vele tus suefios ; 
 Quidate en par oh ! mi dueno 
 En un mundn de dolor. 
 
 Yo te perdono mi muerte 
 For tus caiicias pasadas, 
 A! en tus horas doradas 
 Ten compasion de mi amor." 
 
 Our last dance was at 5 A.M,, but there were many 
 
TIIOUOHTS OF rAUTIN(;. 
 
 27\) 
 
 who would not attempt it, and preferred rather {MUiHing 
 the few moments left them in pouring the last words of 
 love into their deluded partners' ears. 
 
 Some were very much affected at the thoughts of 
 parting. It would not be proper to commit to paper the 
 affecting lengths to which some of the " adios" were 
 carried. Many could not without difficulty be persuaded 
 to return to their ship and their homes, and in this dis- 
 tracted and heartrending state of affairs, we dragged 
 ourselves away at half-past five in the morning. Our 
 ship had sails hent, ready for sea, and before dark that 
 night all those who had endeared themselves to us by 
 their excessive kindness were far out of sight! Thus 
 were we compelled to take an abrupt leave — perhaps for 
 the best. I can hardly tell what a little coaxing may 
 not have accomplished. 
 
 We had not the least idea we were going to sea so 
 suddenly, and had hoped that this our last evening would 
 have permitted our performing the sad duties of a fare- 
 well ! 
 
 One word, then, at parting, and I shall have said adieu 
 in spirit to them all. Their hospitality, attention, kind- 
 ness, and good-heartedness has given us just reasons never 
 to forget them ; and I am, moreover, certain there is not 
 one amongst us who is ungrateful enough to do so. 
 
 We had scarcely got well clear of the land when a 
 gale down the gulf reduced us to close reefs, and, oh ! 
 what a contrast to our last night this was ! I recollect 
 remarking to one of my partners, that I feared their 
 next picnic and ball would entirely drive us from their 
 memories. " Oh, no," she replied ; " we are not like you 
 
r 
 
 W V- 
 
 280 
 
 CONTRAST. 
 
 
 sailors — the first breeze of wind blows ail away. Our 
 hearts are too sensitive ; when we entertain a 1 jve or a 
 fondness, it is never to be erased. Tears" (cor.iiuued the 
 
 pensive E ) "may flow about your eyes, but ours 
 
 come from our hearts ! " 
 
 " Sail on, sail on, thou fearless bark ; 
 
 Wherever blows the welcome wind, 
 It cannot lead to scenes more dark, 
 
 More sad than those we leave behind. 
 Sail on, sail on ; through endless space. 
 
 Through calm, through tempest, stop no more ; 
 The stormiest sea's a resting-place 
 
 To him who leaves sucli hearts on shore." 
 
 On completing our Jlfth yc r together, we cannot but 
 look back and retrace many of the numerous incidents 
 which have occurred to us, with a mixture somewhat of 
 sorrow, joy, and pain. Many a hardship had we endured, 
 but it had been repaid by such scenes as just narrated at 
 Guaymas ; many a long and dismal voyage had been 
 passed, but all forgotten in our first meeting on shore. 
 Many of our shipmates, young and ol(l,have been snatched 
 away by death, shot, drowned, died suddenly or gradually, 
 from severity of climates ; those who remained, who 
 were still permitted the privi'ege of enjoying life by a 
 kind and merciful Providence, had every reason now to 
 offer a silent and fervent prayer for their many hair- 
 breadth escapes from the jaws of death. 
 
 » # * # 
 
 After visiting several of the small islands in tlie Gulf 
 of California (not forgetting the town of Loretto, famed 
 for [fc female beauties), we returned to Mazatlan. Seve- 
 
 ; 
 
 I 
 
PARTING LOOK. 
 
 >81 
 
 y. Our 
 jve or a 
 lued the 
 >ut ours 
 
 re; 
 
 Qnot but 
 
 incidents 
 
 lewliat of 
 
 endured, 
 
 rrated at 
 
 .ad been 
 
 )n shore. 
 
 snatched 
 
 radually, 
 
 ed, who 
 
 ife by a 
 
 now to 
 
 ny hair- 
 
 « 
 
 tlie Gulf 
 ), famed 
 
 Seve- 
 
 ral of these small islands abound in deer and rabbits, and 
 the bays in turtle, many of which were taken, but were 
 rank and fishy, this not being the proper season (March). 
 We had also an opportunity of seeing the extensive salt 
 lakes in the centre of the Isle of Montserrat^. It had 
 the appearance of a lake of milk, the salt, of the most 
 transparent and best quality, having about one foot water 
 over it. Its surface covering a plain of immense extent, 
 the evaporation of 11° which takes place causes the great 
 deposit of salt, and which is sufficient for the consump- 
 iioii of the universe. A small specimen obtained was 
 like a lump of crystal. 
 
 In passing down the gulf, we had a parting look only 
 at the mountairs whose bases encircled the town v/here 
 our never-to-be-forgotten six weeks had been enjoyed. 
 It fell a dead calm at sunset, and all the familiar outlines 
 of the "Cerros" surrounding our late scenes of pleasure 
 were before us, and we stood and gazed on them with 
 mixed feelings of gladness and sorrow, embracing a vain 
 hope that we may some day again return ! The moon 
 was a little past the full, and the night was a heavenly 
 one ; not a ripple on the waters, and the reflected rays of 
 the moon on the sea appeared like a vast sheet of quick- 
 silver. We pictured to ourselves the joy if we could only 
 be wafted at that moment near the windows of the Casa 
 Fuerte. The screams of " Hoy-ga " would not be called 
 in vain ; one whisper of " Tan frio," and the small 
 marble table placed in the recess, it would not be many 
 minutes before we would all be off " like mad," and utter 
 our " Se sales " o'er again. 
 
 We arrived at Mazatlan just in time to partake of the 
 
rrpm 
 
 i\ 
 
 
 *Zfi'l 
 
 COWARDLY MUlinKU. 
 
 'ill 
 
 '^ 
 
 III 
 
 mclanclioly duty of firing minute guns, with ilrooping 
 ci»l()ura, for our universally belovod Queen Dowager, who 
 had departed this life. 
 
 An American frigate lay in the bay, and, although 
 war had ceased l)etween them and the Mexicans, the 
 hatred of the latter was still carried to great lengths, 
 and a most dastardly murder liad just been perpetrated. 
 'J'ho band of the frigate had been kindly lent to tho 
 theatre for the evening, and a boat sent, in charge of a 
 yoiuig midshipman, sixteen years of age, to bring them 
 otV. They had (as is always the case) too much to drink, 
 and a n»w ensued on the pier, which ended in this young 
 officer being stoned to death by the cowardly Mexican 
 villains ! He was buried alongside the late muci 
 lamented captain as well as the owner of tho Thamoh 
 yacht, who, it will be recollected, died not long since. 
 After the tomb:itone had been placed over tho child's 
 grave, it was found next morning smashed to atoms ! I 
 visited tho tombs of all shortly afterwards. 
 
 Tho cholera had entirely disappeared from Mazatlan, 
 but it was now the r< ligious season, " Lent," and during 
 tho evening in alnost every house may be seen a 
 "Reunion Religiose.," A large recess in the drawing- 
 room was decorated with flowers, oranges, and coloured 
 waters, surrounding iM image of " Inri ;" the piano and 
 other instruments were permitted, with chat, but no 
 dancing or singing allowed, and this was strictly 
 adhered to. 
 
 The Lent season terminated with a grand procession 
 on Good Friday — every one, high and low, rich and 
 poor, naval and military, joined, holding long lighted 
 
 I 
 
UOllUir) CUIMKM. 
 
 283 
 
 drooping' 
 agcr, wlio 
 
 although 
 licans, tho 
 bt lengths, 
 irpetrated. 
 5nt to tho 
 bargo of a 
 ring them 
 1 to drink, 
 this young 
 y Mexican 
 ite mucij 
 le Thamoh 
 ;ong since, 
 fcho child's 
 atoms ! I 
 
 Ma;;atlan, 
 nd during 
 )o seen a 
 drawing- 
 1 coloured 
 piano and 
 t, but no 
 strictly 
 
 procession 
 rich and 
 
 Hg lighted 
 
 
 candles (excepting tho naval and military,) to the bearers 
 of different emblems of the season. Portions of this 
 ceremony wore most absurdly hypocritical ; others really 
 appealed devout ; and I could not help noticing the 
 fact, that from tho extreme heat of the »lay in tho 
 streets, tho candles melted (quicker in the hands than at 
 the burning wicks. 
 
 Scarcely an evening passed without a Mexican mur- 
 dering an American, or an American a Mexican. One 
 of our messmates was engaged late in the evening 
 binding up the wounds of an old grey-headed man, but 
 who bled to death during tho night ; another was phot 
 with his own pistol while examining it. A fine young 
 American was taken for murdering a man in cold blood 
 for no reason whatever. (At San Francisco 5,000 dollars 
 were offered for his apprehension.) Parties of soldiers 
 were daily in search of persons who had during the 
 night committed some horrid crime. A pistol was taken 
 away from a drunken Yankee by one of our shipmates, 
 who had pointed it at him, and was about to pull the 
 trigger — a most providential escape he had. This is the 
 society we aro at present surrounded by, and we are 
 compelled to be very careful where we go, and to go 
 well armed and prepared. 
 
 At one very pleasant ** Tertulia" we met a cousin of 
 f IT dear friend at Guaymas. She was what may be 
 ierm^d melancholy beautiful, but the charming Chonita 
 was a sweet coquettish creature, single, and apparently 
 without an admirer ! From these and others we learnt 
 many pleasing accounts of our late friends at Guaymas. 
 They were all about to be married ! The attentions 
 
1 1 ifc 
 
 f 
 
 284. 
 
 BAILE DE CAMPO, 
 
 of the " men-of. war" had caused some jealousy, and 
 fearing a renewal of our visit (which all had of course 
 promised), some were already married ! others promised, 
 and many not far off the happy state. 
 
 Before our departure for the Sandwich Isles we were 
 favoured by the politeness of the residents to a " Baile 
 de Campo," given in a cocoa-nut-grove a short distance 
 from town. The place was tastefully and elegantly laid 
 out, with every appropriate device that ingenuity could 
 suggest ; montd tables here and there, and at one alone 
 150 oMpces were lost by one person, the president of the 
 table,- - r an unusual occurrence, for the chances are 
 
 generally i his favour. 
 
 I never saw such an opening of bottles, especially 
 champagne ; twenty dozen fled in no time. The music 
 was good and ground bad, but we nevertheless danced 
 eleven hours, and then concluded with a "Naval 
 Quadrille/' determined still to keep up the credit of our 
 cloth. 
 
 This " Baile de Campo" is a good idea of getting out 
 of the heat and dust of a town. The mosquitos are your 
 only enemy, but their attentions are generally attracted 
 by the sweeter blood of the arms and necks of the fairer 
 and softer sex. So much for the good taste of these 
 tormen^jrs ! (the mosquitos are meant). 
 
usy, and 
 of course 
 promised, 
 
 i we were 
 a " Bade 
 distance 
 mtly laid 
 ity could 
 ne alone 
 nt of the 
 ances are 
 
 especially 
 iie music 
 3 danced 
 " Naval 
 [it of our 
 
 -ting out 
 are your 
 attracted 
 ;he fairer 
 of these 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 SANDWICH ISLES. 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK THE LEVEE HALF CASTES — BEIIRINg's CROSS 
 
 GRAND SCENE — A STRANGER. 
 
 The first portion of the Sandwich Isles seen was the 
 snow-capped peak of Mauna Roa, nearly fourteen 
 thousand feet above the sea, presenting a scene truly 
 grand, towering above the bay where the celebrated 
 circumnavigator Cook was murdered. 
 
 It is impossible to pass the spot of this melancholy 
 scene without participating in the universal feeling of re- 
 gret at the sudden loss of so estimable and so renowned 
 an explorer. Those who have passed over his many tracks 
 know how truly all positions are placed, with only the 
 " aid of a quadrant and pocket watch ;" and that his 
 end shoidd have been so untimely and so unexpected, 
 depriving him of all the honours and rewards he was 
 about to enjoy when his task was so nearly accom- 
 plished, fills the heart of those who know what he had 
 encountered with despair and anguish on contem- 
 plating it. 
 
 The wrecks of two ill-fated vessels marked the 
 
2«() 
 
 THE LRVEE. 
 
 Ml 
 
 entrance to the inner harbour of Honolulu ; they were 
 driven on shore about two months since, and now lie a 
 warning to the mariner. 
 
 The Kanakas again laid hold of us, and we were 
 drawn into the inner harbour, and, as usual, we found 
 everything seventy-five per cent, dearer, consequent on 
 the numbers madly and thoughtlessly rushing to Cali- 
 fornia, vessels constantly arriving crowded with deluded 
 persons in most deplorable conditions, and such scenes 
 of misery I never beheld ; one vessel, the Harmony 
 (of all names the most inappropriate) was a floating 
 nuisance ; many had not even room to lay down, and 
 constantly chose the streets all night while in harbour. 
 
 The first levee I was presented at was to his sable 
 Majesty King Kamehameha, where all appeared in 
 full dress. A few years since these people were savages, 
 cannibals ! now a kingdom speaking our own language, 
 and acknowledging the Christian religion. A queer 
 feeling overcame us all. We were received at the 
 palace grounds by a guard of honour, and were pre- 
 sented by the Consul-Gfeneral to his Majesty, sitting on 
 his thix)ne, surrounded by his premier, lord cham- 
 berlain, minist(3r for foreign relations, and the governors 
 of the many islands — it really was a novel sight. After 
 this we visited the palace apartments, and viewed the 
 several paintings of byegone kings and queens, chiefs, 
 &c. A Kanaka cannot be more thoroughly offended or 
 his dignity hurt than by asking him, "Who eat Captain 
 Cook t' His black face will turn pale with rage. 
 
 Our last evening was passed in a most pleasant 
 manner at the Bremen consid's, and we had an oppor 
 
 s 
 
 
 1 i i 
 
HALF CASTES. 
 
 287 
 
 hey were 
 low lie a 
 
 we were 
 ve found 
 t|uent on 
 ; to Cali- 
 
 deluded 
 sh scenes 
 Jarmony 
 . floating 
 lown, and 
 arbour, 
 his sable 
 eared in 
 3 savages, 
 anguage, 
 
 A queer 
 at the 
 vere pre- 
 itting on 
 d cham- 
 tovemors 
 After 
 )wed the 
 is, chiefs, 
 jnded or 
 
 Captain 
 
 pleasant 
 n oppor 
 
 tunity of witnessing the rapid progress made by the 
 pretty and interesting " half caiies " in manners and 
 customs. Really they deserve much credit; and they 
 went through their dances of quadrilles, lanciers, &c., 
 with all the ease and grace of a Parisienne. After we 
 had bade adieu to all those who had done their utmost 
 to make a few evenings pass pleasantly for us, we were 
 again off. 
 
 On her most gracious Majesty's birthday, again 
 started on our third voyage to tho Arctic regions. 
 There were some hopes that we should have been 
 recalled from this trying service, but now there were 
 none ; we were out of all reach, and began to feel it 
 would nevt'v end. What added to our misfortunes was, 
 being without warm clothing ; and the provisions, by 
 Goldner (the villain), worse, if possible, than the previous 
 season, being also one year older ; and altogether our 
 prospects were not to be envied, except that we had 
 another chance of rescuing from destruction our brave 
 companions ! 
 
 Our only amusement (or at least pastime) was pre- 
 paring for the "icy north." Fogs already surrounded 
 us, making it cold, damp, and disagreeable. 
 
 Again we had to undergo the melancholy trial of the 
 loss of another shipmate. These severe tests of climate 
 were too much for him, and he gradually sank, and 
 breathed his last at 6 a.m. To him alone a mother 
 and family looked for support. A few months since his 
 brother, an acting gunner, was blown off the deck of the 
 Cerberus, in Hamoaae, and drowned ; and now his spirit 
 had returned to Him who gave it. 
 
■1 •.:;! 
 
 .1 .j! 
 
 288 
 
 HKHRINOS CROSS. 
 
 The coast of Kainstchatka was again in sight ; but on 
 this occasion the weather was thick, wet, and cold — a 
 most gloomy scene — and the land covered with snow. 
 The season was evidently a backward one, as we had not 
 yet experienced a fine day. Twelve months since lovely 
 weather was enjoyed. 
 
 On passing Mednoi Island, we coidd plainly see the 
 cross erected to Behring, who was cast away on an island 
 bearing his name, not very far distant, in 1745, with 
 many of his brave companions, who miserably perished. 
 Here a ray of sunshine shone on us for the first time. 
 We had been wet with all our clothes iox fourteen days, 
 and were thankful now to have a chance of drying 
 them. 
 
 Spoke an American whale ship " trying out," who in- 
 formed us, consequent on the information we had afforded 
 • to whalers, there were now two hundred sail in and 
 about Behring's Strait. All had been anxiously watch- 
 ing for anything that would lead to the whereabouts of 
 Sir John Franklin and his brave associates. 
 
 On entering Behring's Strait the sea was glassy 
 smooth, with a current setting us to the north two-thirds 
 of a mile an hour. The sunset was at half-past ten at 
 night, and all were turned up to view a scene that had 
 not before been beheld ; and this was the only spot in 
 the world such a sight could be seen. " The continents 
 of Asia and America at the same instant !" It was a 
 grand scene indeed ! — the sky a dark purple, the sea a 
 dead calm, the tops of the mountains white with snow, 
 whales innumerable spouting and fluking in all direc- 
 tions. To the westward lay " Orel," the residence of the 
 
GRANP SCKNE. 
 
 289 
 
 t ; but on 
 I cold — a 
 ith snow, 
 e had not 
 nee lovely 
 
 ly see the 
 an island 
 .745, with 
 J perished, 
 first time. 
 ieen days, 
 of drying 
 
 b," who in- 
 id afiforded 
 ail in and 
 isly watch- 
 eabouts of 
 
 ras glassy 
 
 I two-thirds 
 
 )ast ten at 
 
 that had 
 
 [ly spot in 
 
 [continents 
 
 It was a 
 
 the sea a 
 
 rith snow, 
 
 all direc- 
 
 Ince of the 
 
 much favoured Tippioikoi — of whom I dare not say a 
 word. ' 
 
 Off East Cape three baidars came alongside and 
 freely bartered ivory ornaments., fur shoes, and gloves, for 
 tobacco. From them we could gain no information 
 about our lost companions. They remained with us 
 two hours ; and, after giving them some rum, tobacco, 
 and beads, they paddled off highly delighted. 
 
 Kotzebue Sound was full of icebergs, but in a fast state 
 of dissolution, crushing to pieces underour bows as the ship 
 pressed among them. Five baidars came out to meet us 
 with salmon and venison, the latter very high (not in 
 price). They were most friendly, and recognised us all 
 as " old friends." One of them held a certificate from a 
 friend of ours " that he had, during the winter, been 
 kindly treated by this man," and we of course loaded 
 him with presents ; but it was very curious to see a cer- 
 tificate presented to you in this out-of-the-way part of 
 the world. 
 
 The sound was so densely packed with ice that we 
 could not enter, and therefore stood out again for a few 
 days. During the night a N.W. wind came on, and we 
 again bore up for Chamisso Island, and to our astonish- 
 ment not a particle of ice was to be seen ; it had all disap- 
 peared in a night. We dropped anchor, and our conport, 
 who had passed the winter here, came alongside us, " all 
 well." The only news heard was, that " white people 
 were on Point Barrow building a ship ;" and the 
 natives had traced on paper a correct outline of the 
 coast, and placed the position of the " white people " on it. 
 
 After putting omselves and ship a Httle to rights, 
 
 U . 
 
21)0 
 
 A STRAN(JER. 
 
 again snilcil on our search along the coast ; but, to our 
 utter surprise, found the solid ice- bank one hundred miles 
 south of where it last year stood ! The zodiacal light 
 was now seen magnetic south, with its base on the 
 horizon, and at 11.40 A.M., the sun set brilliantly. 
 
 The weather, thick, foggy, and gloomy, with a strong 
 S.W. wind, obliged us to haul off the pack, which now 
 had the appearance of land, thirty to forty feet high, 
 covered with snow. We returned to Cape Lisburne, the 
 appointed rendezvous, and had not been here many 
 hours before a vessel in the offing hoisted a white ensign 
 (and H. union). She was direct from England, had the 
 last twelve months news on board, and had come through 
 the Seguam pa.ssage, from the Sandwich Isles, without 
 sighting land, in the incredible short space of twenty-six 
 days ! 
 
 A further search in Baffin's Bay by four vessels was 
 in contemplation, making in all twelve ships in the 
 Arctic regions looking for our lost friends. 
 
 No promotions had taken place among us. We were 
 altogether forgotten. " Out of sight out of mind " — 
 the old saying verified ! 
 
 We only remained in company sufficient time to pass 
 compliments. She bore np, hoisting the signaVFarewell!" 
 to which was at once responded "Success!" At mid- 
 night she was out, of sight, intending to take the 
 " pack " at any risks, blowing then half a gale of wind. 
 
 i ! : 
 
ut, to out 
 dred miles 
 iacal light 
 le on the 
 
 h a strong 
 vhich now 
 feet high, 
 iburne, the 
 lere many 
 lite ensign 
 id, had the 
 ne through 
 38, without 
 twenty-six 
 
 kressels was 
 ps in the 
 
 We were 
 mind"— 
 
 me to pass 
 Farewell!" 
 At mid- 
 take the 
 of wind. 
 
 i 
 
 < 
 
 X 
 
 •/J 
 
 
 < 
 X 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 THE ARCTIC OCEAN, 
 
 THE 4t1I of august, AN AWFUIi NIGHT — IMPBODADI.E flTOHT — ^THK 
 WHALERS — A FRIEND IN NEED — ANOTHER — MAN OVERBOARD — 
 SANDWICH ISLES — PRIVATE THEATRICALS. 
 
 *' A hapless sailor here I roam, 
 
 Far from my dear maternal home; 4 
 
 Oh ! shield me from the wintry blast! 
 The nightly storm is pouring fast." 
 
 The 4th of August was a day and night that cannot 
 easily be forgotten ; it was one of the most awful ex- 
 perienced since the ship had been commissioned (now 
 five years). We had previously a few fine and calm 
 days ; the horizon suddenly darkened all round, but was 
 bright over head About one in the morning, after 
 some vivid flashes of forked and slieet lightning, 
 accompanied b^' a strong wind, which shifted to the 
 S.W., there was chain and fork lightning, flashing 
 through our rigging. It commenced like a ball of fire on 
 the horison (similar to a sunset), and then burst forth 
 over the whole heavens, followed by loud peals of 
 blunder and rains. So close did the lightning pass to 
 
 v2 
 
292 
 
 AN AWFUL NIGHT. 
 
 n 
 
 us, that I was about to call the men off the yard, who 
 were reefing topsails, rather risking the loss of yards and 
 sails, than the men ; however, a merciful Provident.? was 
 watching over us, and no accident occurred. 
 
 I was always impressed with the idea that the Straits 
 of Malacca and Suncia was the nucleus of the most vivid 
 lightning ; but having been through those straits many 
 times, I had never seen it so awfully grand as on this 
 occasion, and that night made a deep impression on 
 me. 
 
 The weather soon moderated, and it fell a calm, and 
 the ship anchored to avoid being set on shore by the 
 current and swell. Here our old friends, whom we had 
 seen before this season, visited us ; they were a little 
 dirtier than usual ! 
 
 Here again our consort was seen, she had been to 
 Point Barrow. The story of the white men building 
 boats there was pHogether without any foundation ; and 
 we now began to find the natives were cunning enough 
 to make up these stories for the sake of the rewards 
 promised. This made us somewhat cautious ; however, 
 a further story was now heard, that " a party of white 
 men, in two boats, had been murdered near the Copuk, 
 and were buried, having whales' bones and jaws marking 
 the spot" — "some were still alive!" This was heard 
 firom three separate parties, who were at war with the 
 Ciopuks. These, of course, we fancied could be none 
 other than our boat expedition which started twelve 
 months since ; but the story was rather imi)robable. 
 
 It, however, coincided with one we heard at Micbae- 
 iouski, Norton Sound, last season, that " the company 
 
IMPROBABLE STORY. 
 
 203 
 
 d, who 
 (Ib and 
 \^?. was 
 
 Straits 
 st vivid 
 s many 
 on this 
 ision on 
 
 ilm, and 
 i by the 
 I we had 
 ! a little 
 
 been to 
 building 
 ion ; and 
 enough 
 rewards 
 however, 
 of white 
 e Copuk, 
 marking 
 as heard 
 with the 
 be none 
 d twelve 
 ,ble. 
 
 Michae- 
 company 
 
 had seen natives with fire-arms," and that " the people 
 were all buried in a hole." Now the first, " fire-arms," 
 the fur company will not permit ; and the second is con- 
 trary to the usual custom of burying their dead ! 
 
 However, the subject required altogether most mature 
 deliberation to decide what was to be done. We all, of 
 course, wanted to be off immediately to search the spot, 
 but those who possessed older and wiser heads said 
 "wait awhile !" 
 
 • The probability of the story was a little shaken by a 
 refusal on the part of our native informant to act as 
 pilot, with a temptation of a cask of tobacco and two 
 
 muskets. 
 
 « • • « • 
 
 Before returning from the search of the coast and 
 packed ice, we landed on Point Hope, to place a mark 
 and bury a notice, for the guidance of any one following 
 us. 
 
 The natives were friendly, and did not exceed 
 twenty-four in number. They bartered freely, but 
 lost no opportunity of stealing ! They live in three 
 summer erangs, all their yourts, or under-ground dwell- 
 ings, being shut for the season. Some we opened from 
 curiosity and entered ; they were each about eight feet 
 under ground, sixteen long by ten wide ; some floored 
 with drift wood, others slate stone, and all built of 
 whales' bones, then covered with slate and *^arth, leaving 
 a square hole on top for entrance and erit of man and 
 smoke ; in winter this hole is covered with a slab of ice, 
 which admits light. Four large stakes are driven at 
 each corner of the yourt, standing about twenty feet 
 
fi t 
 
 m 
 
 above the ground, and on these they hang their sledges, 
 tools, harness, &c. 
 
 The yourts were about twenty-five in number, and 
 capable of holding about 300 persons. In one was found 
 a set of masks made of wood, curiously carved, with 
 human teeth stuck in the mouth ; with these they per- 
 form their masquerades in winier. All the tools and 
 implements for housekeeping were still hanging around, 
 but covered with mould, and the whole place had the 
 feeling and smell of a vault— cold, dead, and sickly. 
 Tobacco was exchanged for curios made from walrus 
 and whales' teeth, on very friendly terms ! and no 
 wonder, for we found as fast as it was bartered it was 
 taken again and resold, at the same moment that one 
 on either side were busy picking our pockets, so that in 
 the end we did not gain much, and, indeed, did not care ; 
 our object was to make friends, and not enemies, so they 
 had all their own way. 
 
 While returning to our ship and making all sail, a 
 boat was lowered to pick up a small cask, having marked 
 on it " S mess beef." We were disappointed, for all had 
 hoped it would afford us some information. 
 
 Shortly after hove to in company with an American 
 whale ship, of New Bedford, homeward bound! Full, 
 having 2,900 barrels of oil on board. She had heard 
 nothing of the object of our longing search. 
 
 From her captain, vho brought two sick men on 
 board, we derived much information relative to the 
 " whaling fleet." " He estimated the niimber inside the 
 straits to be 150 sail ; nearly all full. The highest 
 latitude reached was 70' 30' north ; they were much 
 
A FRIEND IN NEED. 
 
 295 
 
 sledges, 
 
 )er, and 
 as found 
 3d, with 
 hey per- 
 ools and 
 
 around, 
 
 had the 
 lI sickly, 
 n wah'us 
 
 and no 
 ;d it was 
 , that one 
 30 that in 
 
 not care ; 
 |s, so they 
 
 ill sail, a 
 marked 
 )r all had 
 
 Lmerican 
 ^l! Full, 
 lad heard 
 
 men on 
 le to the 
 
 Inside the 
 
 highest 
 
 3re much 
 
 
 perplexed with ice ; a great many sail were in St. 
 Lawrence Bay ; one ship had parted her anchor in a 
 S.E, gale, and ran on shore, but was got off by the assis- 
 tance of other ships." 
 
 "Some vessels ran into the ice and obtained many 
 fish. The whales were much fartlier north this season 
 than any other, knowing they had enemies on the coast. 
 Three species of whale were noticed, the smallest and 
 most dangerous being the 'stcple tops' (90 to 100 
 barrels good oil from each) ; they chase the boats and 
 tight much. The whale ships mostly anchor one to 
 fifteen miles off shore, on the coast of Asia, in fourteen 
 fathoms water." 
 
 Passed out of Behring's Strait, during an anxious 
 night, under reefed sails, and prayed that it might be for 
 the last time. We communicated with Norton Sound 
 settlement, hut obtained no information whatever, and 
 then returned to Port Clarence. Here, to our astonish- 
 ment and surprise, and I may say joy, we found one of 
 our ships, which we hjid been chasing for the last two 
 months. She was aground, in ende; uring to get into 
 the inner harbour, and was eighteen inches in the mud. 
 She had been as anxiously looking for us, having been 
 up and fV wn the coast, firing rockets, blue lights, ex- 
 ploding barrels of powder, and setting beacons adrift. 
 She had been eighty miles east of Ponit Barrow, and had 
 reached the latitude of 73° 15' north ! She was now on 
 shore, and it was our pleasant duty to " haul her off," 
 and for which all at once prepared. 
 
 She had to be lightened of everything on board ; 
 anchors, cables, ballast, provisions, spars, &c., all taken 
 

 iRi 
 
 > 
 
 id 
 
 ■ t ' ! 
 
 ^% 
 
 
 296 
 
 ANOTHER. 
 
 out ; purchases placed on the cables, and manned by all 
 hands. She moved, and was soon in three fathoms water. 
 All was again returned to her, stowed, and prepared for 
 sea. This was all done during the most cold and trying 
 weather — squalls of hail, snow, and rain, against which 
 our ship's crew was not prepared. 
 
 Just when we had completed " assisting a known friend 
 in view to the utmost of our power," another consort, in 
 coming out of the inner harbour, ran aground, aud we 
 had again the pleasing prospect of rendering her succour ; 
 however, this task was not so laborious. 
 
 Bitidars constantly visit us from all parts of the bay, 
 bringing fish and small pieces of venison. They possess 
 the same weakness for adopting what is not their own. 
 One was found having two iron chain-hooks in the legs 
 of his boots, and looked very silly on being found out. 
 
 Winter again ! Snow and sleet, with strong north-west 
 winds, compelled us to " be off," and we left Port Cla- 
 rence, running in a north-west gale along St. Lawrence 
 Island, and passing Gore's, which, from the thick state 
 of the weather, could not be seen, and we were sorry, 
 for it was the only island in these waters we had not 
 beheld. 
 
 Before making the Aleoutian Islands, we had the sad 
 misfortune to lose a man overboard. I had scarcely laid 
 'down in my hammock, after keeping a cold, dreary, and 
 boisterous middle watch, when I heard the thrilling cry 
 of a " Man overboard." I threw on one or two of my 
 clothes which were near me, and rushed into the lee 
 quarter-boat, the life-buoy was let go, and the ship 
 rounded to ; but neither the man nor the buoy were again 
 
A MAN OVERBOARD. 
 
 297 
 
 seen, and, as the sea Avas running high, it was considered 
 imprudent to lower the boat, which might only have added 
 to the calamity. Thus, in an instant, was snatched from 
 us one of our shipmates. We had been five and a half 
 years together, got through every danger, and on the eve 
 of returning to his home, when in one moment all was 
 over ; the sea closed on him for ever ! 
 
 When all hope was at an end, sail was again made, 
 leaving in our wake the sailor's uncertain grave. He 
 who, only a few minutes before, had been looking forward 
 with the rest of us (for it was now our only thought) to 
 the pleasures of again reaching our homes after upwards 
 of five years' toil and hardships, was now in eternity ! 
 We endeavoured in vain to forget this awful moment. 
 Oh ! what a lesson to us (and I believe it is part of the 
 wisdom of the Great Creator to show forth these sad 
 examples to us constantly) to prepare ourselves ; not to 
 say to-morrow will do, or there is time enough, but this 
 instant to prepare to meet our Maker ; to " seek the Lord 
 while he may be found ; to call upon him while he is 
 near." (Isaiah Iv. 6, 7.) 
 
 |he sad 
 ?ly laid 
 py, and 
 
 igcry 
 I of my 
 |he lee 
 ship 
 
 again 
 
 " ran" 
 
 In a north east gale, with hail and snow storms, we 
 through the Seguam passage of the Aleoutian 
 group, by the Amoutcha channel. The squalls off ths 
 high land were, very strong, and at midnight we were 
 free from danger, with the wide Pacific once more 
 before us. We knew not whither bound ; it was a 
 mystery. 
 
 But the thrill of pleasure which all felt when it was 
 annomiced that the " Sandwich Isles" was to be our des- 
 
 
298 
 
 SANDWICH ISLES. 
 
 t 
 
 tination ! The men almost jumped out of their clothes 
 with joy, and smiles were over every face, for it had been 
 feared that we should have again to visit the American 
 shores, which woiud have prolonged our voyage home 
 four or five months. 
 
 Soon made the port all were so anxious for. The 
 crew were getting >veak and sickly ; scurvy was among 
 us ; and many would soon have had to " knock under ;" 
 their physical powers were fast giving way. However, 
 the ship was soon again in her old anchorage, snug in 
 the inner harbour, and commenced recruiting ourselves, 
 and refitting the vessel for our homeward-bound voyage. 
 
 Nearly all the whalers had arrived safely. Only three 
 were missing. One foundered at sea, having crammed 
 herself too full ; two were supposed to be wrecked ; and 
 one placed herself on the reef shortly after our arrival. 
 Several hundred barrels of oil were saved from her, but 
 she became a total wreck ; indeed, it appeared to us a 
 business ! 
 
 The residents again commenced to make the time pass 
 as quickly and as agreeably for us as they could, and we 
 enjoyed it with all our hearts. Everywhere there was 
 open house for us. 
 
 The bare idea of being again homeward bound was 
 like a dream to us. Having been so long with the 
 prospect so many times before us, we could hardly realise 
 the fact as even probable, much less possible. However, 
 the morning arrived, and I never saw the anchor torn 
 out of the ground and whipped to the bows as it was 
 that morning. All sail was made, and we were running 
 towards Hong-Kong. The moment the breeze fresliened, 
 
PRIVATE THEATRICALS. 
 
 299 
 
 something went ; our poor old ship was, like those 
 who trimmed her sails and guided her through the 
 waters, fast falling to decay. The merest pufF, studding- 
 sail boom and iron gone ; another puiF, a topmast stay ; 
 another, slings of a yard ; and so on, constantly some- 
 thing breaking. Three years and a half is the term 
 generally appointed to a ship's commission, but we were 
 now nearly six years ; and in such extremes and varieties 
 of heat and cold, wind and snow, nothing could stand 
 such severe tests. • 
 
 A CHAPTER ON PRIVATE THEATRICALS! 
 " All the world's a stage, and the men and women mere players." 
 
 1 have, on two or more occasions, alluded to our 
 having performed theatricals for pastime, and to having 
 displayed the dresses worn on those occasions for the 
 amusement of our frequent visitors, and it is therefore 
 necessary that it should be known by what means the 
 theatricals became formed, and how the dresses came 
 into shape. 
 
 Having among the midshipmen a naturally happy set 
 of fellows (seventeen in number), and among the gun- 
 room officers some ready to assist in making long dull 
 hours pass pleasantly ; and last, though not least, a 
 captain, ever willing to devote anything he possessed to 
 make us all happy, determined us to commence, though 
 under many apparent difficulties, and prepare for tlie 
 stage. . . ^ ; .; 
 
800 
 
 DRESSES. 
 
 There was aiie difficulty presenting itself — a serious 
 difficulty — we were all willing, but had not the mate- 
 rials ; this, however, was soon overcome, for, on our 
 arrival at Petropavlovskoi, there lay (as if waiting forus) 
 an American notion vessel with everything on board 
 from a " cambric needle to a bower anchor." This now 
 urged and encouraged us the more : muslins, paints, 
 glazed calicoes, brushes, lace, needles, satin riband, and 
 various other trimmings, bobbins, &c., which I do not 
 know the proper names of, were purchased. 
 
 The scenes were painted, though under many and 
 unforeseen difficulties ; before half finished, the brushes 
 were lost in a gale of wind, others had to be made, and 
 there was scarcely a soup plate or bason remaining in 
 the mids.' berth that had not been expended or cracked 
 in this purpose. There was a wood scene, a country 
 house and grounds, a room, and a street ; and six side 
 scenes, as well as a drop scene. The room with the fire- 
 place and pier-glass was the masterpiece, and looked 
 brilliant by candle-light. 
 
 'Ihe midshipman's berth was like a dressmaker's shop ! 
 All were employed, even those who could but " sew on 
 a button." There was a blue flowered muslin over 
 glazed calico for an elderly lady ; a white lace over the 
 same material for a bride ; and a pink striped muslin 
 over something shining for a servant maid. All these 
 had to be made, as well as lace caps with trimmings to 
 correspond, for the elderly lady and maid. 
 
 The mess-table was daily covered with tape, scissors, 
 hooks and eyes, bodkins, and other murderous weapons. 
 Some were cutting out the paper patterns after the 
 
 
I'lIAKACTERS. 
 
 301 
 
 n most approved fashion; others the linings ; while those 
 
 who had the advantage of sisters had learned to go 
 through the more critical part of cutting out the dress. 
 The breadths were "run up," skirts drawn in, body 
 stitched together, sleeves sewn on, piped, and trimmed 
 with ribbon of the same colours ; flounces on some, and 
 the dresses complete and tried on, giving entire satisfac- 
 tion, of course. 1'he caps were made. Some feather 
 flowers, purchased from the nuns at Madeira, and a lock 
 or two of hair (old valued relics), were the principal 
 trimmings of the maid's cap, while white Manilla rope 
 formed those of the aged lady. M'ith the assistance of 
 laoe, habit-shirts, white and red paints, mud boots, wad- 
 ding, and other artificial means of puffing, the ladies' 
 dresses may be said to have been complete — and this 
 was a great weight off our minds. 
 
 And we were now to have our first dress rehearsal ! 
 
 The females were attired in the following manner : — 
 The young heroine, a white clear muslin, long green 
 silk scarf, red sash, ringlets of dy*^d Manilla rope, dress 
 trimmed with blue ribbon, looked well. 
 
 The elderly lady. — Blue muslin, trimmings blue, 
 white lace habit shirt, a pillow for a bustle, other pad- 
 dings of wool, no petticoat, white lace cap, red trim- 
 mings, Manilla rope curls (natural colour), mud boots, 
 chequered blue apron, trimmed with red, long sleeves, 
 and peak to dyed dress. 
 
 Lady's maid (who had already been christened by 
 the vulgar appellation of " Sal Gash"), — red muslin, 
 trimmed with white lace ; ditto habit-shirt ; bustle, made 
 of three yards of No. 1 canvas, stretched with a rib of 
 
ft 
 
 302 
 
 THE " OETTINO Uiv' 
 
 whalebone ; blue spotted apron, trimmed with red ; long 
 white socks and sandals; white lace "fly away;" cap 
 trimmed with Avhite satin ribbon ; ringlets (once the 
 property of a Panamanian belle), and a sprig of m3n:ile 
 from a convent at Madeira. Faces of all rouged and 
 whitened, as necessary ; and, as the dresses were " low," 
 all felt rather cool about the neck and shoulders in the 
 "Arctic regions," 
 
 The dresses of some of the other characters were a 
 choice medley. First dress : — One had on a marine's 
 jumper, Yankee axe, Russian boots and corderoys, ruddy 
 face. Second dress : — Tights and silk stockings ; silver 
 buckles on low shoes ; a three-cornered hat ; ruffles and 
 black coat; a well-powdered wig; white cravat, and 
 gold-headed cane. 
 
 Another had on black hoUand tights, black coat and 
 ruffles, powdered wig, silver buckles. 
 ' Two aet'vant lads. — Black holland jackets, trimmed 
 with the gay border of a new pocket handkerchief, 
 white and red neck ties ; top boots and corderoys ; hat 
 and Turkish cap ; and white stockings, &c., &c., &c. 
 
 All now went through their respective parts. 
 
 The " getting up " and " painting " was good amuse- 
 ment "When "Sal," as she had now been familiarly 
 called, was getting painted, some one exclaimed, " Go it, 
 Sal, 1*11 hold your bonnet ! ** " You look like a pointer \" 
 says another, meaning a "north pointer." "Shut your 
 eyes," says one, " while I give you black eyebrows and 
 moustache." The unconscious fellow shut his eyes; 
 and, the cork having been just taken from the lighted 
 candle, was burning, and back went his head against a 
 
ed; long 
 %y" cap 
 once the 
 of myrtle 
 uged and 
 •e "low," 
 3r8 in the 
 
 srs were a 
 marine's 
 ys, ruddy 
 gs ; silver 
 uffles and 
 avat, and 
 
 coat and 
 
 trimmed 
 [kerchief . 
 oys ; hat 
 
 I, &c. 
 
 amuse- 
 
 |familiarly 
 
 \, "Go it, 
 
 sinter !" 
 
 Bhut your 
 
 irows and 
 
 lis eyes; 
 
 [e lighted 
 
 iinst a 
 
 FIHST UKUEAUSAL. 
 
 803 
 
 teak beam, which he acknowledged the hardest The 
 row by this time brought our amiable captain among us, 
 who was as much delighted as any. In one part of the 
 play, where the heroine leans on her lover and " be- 
 seeches him not to go to the wars," to which he was 
 about to reply, we all roared ! No one could contain 
 himself. And this finished our first rehearsal. 
 
 A grand opening night next followed, considering our- 
 selves competent to perform before an audience. Play- 
 bills were issued to this effect, and also announced that 
 the doors would be open at half-past six, and the per- 
 formance would begin precisely at seven, and no admit- 
 tance behind the scenes. The company also " regretted 
 that the lateness of the season, and the urgent demands 
 for them elsewhere, would prevent them from protracting 
 their stay beyond a fortnight, at the farthest." 
 
 The performance did commence at seven o'clock 
 exactly, the band, consisting of two violins, three flutes, 
 and a drum, playing the national anthem, " God save 
 the Queen ;" after which, in compliment to our worthy 
 chief, " Garry Owen ;" at the termination of which the 
 curtain rose, and we were before a public audience. 
 
 The piece went on well, and very naturally. " Our 
 star" carried the palm. His action and performance 
 was perfect, especially where he was endeavouring to 
 convince the footmen (who were drubbing him) that he 
 was not what they imagined he was. Next to him, the 
 " Elderly Lady " did her part well ; she had the " brass 
 of a coal-box ;" the song was excellent. A song im- 
 promptu — "Rolling Mary" — brought forth great applauxo. 
 When " Sal's " part commenced, she had to leave her 
 
301 
 
 THK FINISH. 
 
 musical instinnient (for she was also one of the baud) 
 and rush into the steerage and dress herself, and when 
 " done up " found she had forgotten the portion that gives 
 symmetry to the figure, and had to return and replace it. 
 She was late for entrance, but, by being so, it fortunately 
 happened that the effect was much better, for, instead of 
 one applause for the lady and her maid, they had one 
 each 
 
 A box of boluses was presented by the doctor to the 
 maid " to take hourly " — but if she had opened the box 
 on the stage she mnst have indulged in hysterical 
 laughter, for the pills were as large as nutmegs, and 
 rolled in flour. The Elderly Lady forgot her " prunella 
 boots " in the hurry of dressing, and her flushing trou- 
 sers were observed. 
 
 It ended ! All went off with great Sclat The audi- 
 ence sat for more — a convincing proof it was amusing. 
 A jovial supper in the midshipmen's mess, at which all 
 were kind enough to come, even including our beloved 
 skipper, all in character, until half-past twelve finished 
 our evening scene. Thus did our theatricals assist, not 
 only to pass time for ourselves, but for our shipmates. 
 
 I have already given a brief account of our perform- 
 ance before a Russian audience, and will not occupy time 
 by repeating it But our next attempt was on the second 
 voyage north, when our season was longer, our time con- 
 sequently heavier, and a larger audience to amuse. 
 
 The scenes had all to be repainted, for, as we were not 
 certain of again coming north, they had been thrown 
 aside, and, being chalk colours, were entirely effaced. 
 However, all set to work "hand and heart," and our 
 
ANOTHKK ACT. 
 
 ao.> 
 
 e baud) 
 id when 
 at gives 
 place it. 
 lunately 
 stead of 
 lad one 
 
 r to the 
 the box 
 ysterical 
 3gs, and 
 prunella 
 ig trou- 
 
 he audi- 
 
 .mtising. 
 
 rhich all 
 
 beloved 
 
 finished 
 
 sist, not 
 
 tes. 
 
 erform- 
 tpy time 
 second 
 le con- 
 le. 
 
 rere not 
 [thrown 
 jefTaced. 
 Lnd our 
 
 scenes were again ready. They now consisted of an 
 apartment in lodgings, the exterior of an inn, a captain's 
 apartment in the inn, and au old barn on a common 
 (moonlight). 
 
 It was now necessary to have foui females, and it re- 
 quired some ingenious cutting and cor>triving to change 
 dresses from the last. One was a respectable widow in 
 second mourning, a landlady, a servant-maid, and a bar- 
 maid. 
 
 The Widow was attired in a black velvet skirt 
 (originally intended for a shooting coat) tacked to a 
 body of black cloth (made from an old black coat), a 
 muff and boa made of fox skins, a chequered shawl, a 
 bonnet made by a quartermaster, cut out by a clerk, 
 trimmed and covered by a mate (Royal Navy), bonnet 
 boxes and luggage complete. 
 
 The Landlady, a second mourning cotton dress, long 
 sleeves and flounces ; a pretty under-shawl, a lace cap, 
 silk apron ; and certainly this female attire became its 
 possessor's round, blooming face to a nicety, and he made 
 a nne plump landlady, splitting with laughter ! 
 
 The maid and barmaid's dresses were those worn on a 
 former occasion, with some trifling additions and altera- 
 tions. 
 
 2716 Hero of the Farce was dressed in a first-class 
 marine's jacket, mounted with two navy scales to set it 
 off, and the wearer had to be put through the operation 
 of " bracing up" and " easing off" as his part of the play 
 came round, the coat being very tight and uncomfortable. 
 He wore a pair of naval dress trousers, a broad red sash 
 to cover the vacancy caused between the jacket and 
 
.S()6 
 
 THE HEROINE. 
 
 
 trowsera, and a huge pair of silver spurs, made and 
 brightened up from a biscuit canister, a cap ytuck on 
 three hairs, the chinstay resting on his upper lip, with 
 a profiise moustache, an eye-glass suspended from a 
 button-hole, and a pair of white doeskin gloves. 
 
 A poacher was made np of an old shooting coat, 
 red belcher, white rabbit-skin hat, check w':Stcoat, cor- 
 duroys, blucher boots, and grey purser's stockings, a 
 stick, a bundle, and a hare ; everything belonging to 
 different owners, but in which he looked well indeed. 
 Other dresses of many devices. 
 
 In going through the rehearsal we enjoyed 'nuselves 
 much ; indeed, those are the only parts the actors enjoy. 
 It is rather serious than otherwise, when the curtain 
 rises and leaves you to the ga^e of a multitude j tlien it 
 is their enjoyment, not yours ! I am sure the " hero " 
 will do his part admirably ; and the widow, when she 
 imploringly says, ** My name is E?nma," you eannot, 
 for the life of you, resist a downright laugh. It is too 
 absurd I 
 
 We had bee.i w^aiting long for a fine evening to per- 
 form our second " iheutricals." It now arrived ; and the 
 vessels being in company, we were favoured by the pre- 
 sence of all who cotihl be spared ; and now our ai'dience 
 includeu the "Heroine oi" Point Barrow." 
 
 The play-bills weio issued, neatly printed on blue 
 and red papers, and we were to be patroniM.d by all tho 
 nohiliiy and gentry of the swrroundlwj neighboar- 
 hood. A prcjunble w?s necessary, in which " the com- 
 pany, in retuDiing tfianks to the public »n general for 
 the nnlimitc'd [)aiTonage they njet witii at their la^t visit 
 
 ^!>^ 
 
PLAY BILLS. 
 
 307 
 
 le and 
 
 \ick on 
 p, with 
 from a 
 
 if coat, 
 >at, cor- 
 ungs, a 
 ^itjg to 
 indeed. 
 
 uviselves 
 •8 enjoy. 
 
 cuftain 
 ; then it 
 
 " hero " 
 fhen she 
 
 cannot, 
 
 t i» too 
 
 to per- 
 , antl the 
 Lhc pre- 
 iiidience 
 
 lou blue 
 all tho 
 
 Iho com- 
 lernl for 
 s>i visit 
 
 % this country, iiad now the satisfaction of making them 
 ttcquaintA^d with the following particulars : — 
 
 " In the period intervening since last season, iinprove- 
 Hmts liave been made which must tend to the comfort. 
 of the audience. The dresses, tlioufrh not altoffether 
 new, ha*e undv rgone a thorough adaptation, and the 
 splendid <lecorations of this establishment have since last 
 year been replaced by embellishments of a more mag- 
 nificent and costly description. 
 
 ** The scenery and proscenium have been newly 
 painted, and it is hoped that the effect it produces will 
 display the skill and jud<jn»ent of the artist. 
 
 " The orchestral anangementa have, from unavoidable 
 causes, been the subject t" great anxiety. The ablest 
 that can be proctirod have ttigaged, both in stringed and 
 wind instruments, to attend ; the music when heard may 
 be appreciated, but can never be described. 
 
 " The terms of admission j^arcely rctpure notice, it 
 will be sufficient to mjf tiMt they are on the sfime liberal 
 scale as they were la<if aeawm ; the aim of the proj)rie- 
 tors being rather to secure pleasure and .satisfaction to 
 the spectators than profit, to tr.«»,ni selves. 
 
 ** Doors open at uevew, |;>er1brn!ance8 commence at 
 half-past seven precisely, and uo .idndttancc l)ohind the 
 scenery." 
 
 It occupied all that day adjiw€tng »nd regulating the 
 scenery, which, being new and <lonble in quantity of 
 our 'ast, and a more extensive awnlience to witness it, 
 reijuired more care and time. 
 
 F.xa«:tl\ at the betV>rft-naiued hour the bel! rang, the 
 au'Urncf; arrived — officers and men from tho "Arctic 
 
 X 2 
 
308 
 
 TIIK HERO. 
 
 k 
 
 squadron," tlie fair " Eloisc" and hergimrdian — the band 
 playing " Rule Britannia," followed by " Patrick's Day in 
 the Morning!" The band on this occasion had the 
 addition of a picolo and a tambourine, and during the 
 evening performed twenty-one popular airs, as well as 
 the Koyal Irish Quadrilles, selections from Mozart, 
 "Away with Melancholy," "Auld Lang Syne," con- 
 cluding with '* God Save the Queen I" 
 
 The whole play was got tlirough ^notwithstanding 
 many difficulties to contend against) with much echitf 
 and to the entire gratification of the audience. 
 
 The dress of the " fat landlady" caused much laughter, 
 it was riiliculous in the extreme. The " waiter," all 
 acknowledged to be a " pieman." The " Contraban- 
 dista" was a failure, but was the reason of great merri- 
 ment ; his breeks (which were made of black holland) 
 were so tight that he could not stoop to pick up the 
 bouquet of his fair charmer, and did not think of prac- 
 tising the stoop before entering on the stage ; he was 
 afraid of bursting them. The manager did his part 
 well, and the character in the dress I have described as 
 the " Zero," in the marine's jacket and tin spurs, was 
 admirable ; he was worthy of a grander stage and a 
 larger audience. 
 
 It was delightfully encouraging to perceive the 
 cheering smile of our fair friend among the audience, it 
 spurred us on to banish bashfulness. Indeed, before I 
 ventured on the *' stage," I took a strong and powerful 
 potion of — tea / — no — nor coffee, — I forget the name of 
 it, but 1 found it made me ten times more timid, and I was 
 nearly hiccoughing aloud. All ended well. The good 
 
LAST APPEARANCE. 
 
 309 
 
 [he band 
 s Day in 
 had the 
 rin^ the 
 3 well as 
 Mozart, 
 le,"" con- 
 
 istanding 
 ich I'clutf 
 
 laughter, 
 liter," all 
 ontraban- 
 lat mcrri- 
 holland) 
 k up the 
 of prac- 
 ; he was 
 his part 
 icribed as 
 purs, was 
 re and a 
 
 ;eive the 
 idience, it 
 before I 
 powerful 
 name of 
 and I was 
 The good 
 
 natured captain ordered the " main brace to be spliced," 
 and wo retreated in costume to the gun-room, where a 
 supper awaited us. 
 
 The men continued singing until midnight, when the 
 "grand rounds" interfered; ours did not cease until 
 three in the morning — all sang, even our chief, every- 
 body. Our fair visitor, with all the taste and feeling 
 proper for such occasions, sang " Love's Young Dream" 
 — it would have " melted a heart made of paving stones," 
 and " Erin my Country" completely mesmerised us all. 
 It was not often we were favoured with so charming a 
 visitor, and her society was therefore much sought after. 
 
 At three, all dismissed, very much fatigued, for all the 
 young fellows had been wooding and watering from 
 before four each morning until seven at night, for five 
 successive days ; therefore we " slept" the remainder of 
 
 that night " without rocking." 
 
 • « » • » . 
 
 A day was now fixed for '* positively our very last 
 appearance ;" a brief rehearsal was only necessary. The 
 programme was much the same as on a former occasion ; 
 the " play-bills" were more " spicey," and the decora- 
 tions more " tasty." 
 
 Again we were favoured by the attendance of all who 
 could be spared from our Arctic companions ; at the 
 usual hour, " Rule Britannia ;" at the last note of which 
 up rose the curtain, and the farce oonimenoed. 
 
 In describing one of these plays all are illustrated ; 
 and I will not, therefore, waste time or paper in going 
 through all the detail again and again. Suffice it to 
 observe, that the "hero^* was perfection itself, the 
 
ii! 
 
 £i : <: 
 
 3 J 
 
 
 1 
 
 1; 
 
 1 
 
 f 
 
 ■1 
 
 \K 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 ra 
 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 310 
 
 SUPPER. . 
 
 knighfa part was admirably performed, the manager 
 was loudly cheered, and at the last figure of a coquettish 
 dance the curtain fell, *mid loud cheers and cries of " over 
 again," which time would not pennit. All retired on 
 this occasion to the " cabin," where an impression was 
 scarcely visible on the abundance of everything pro- 
 vided for us by our generous host. "Conuemara 
 lemonade" and songs kept us together until half-past 
 two in the morning, and again the " life of the party" 
 
 charmed us with some of Moore's melodies. 
 
 ♦ ♦ . ♦ • • 
 
 " Our meeting, though happy, was tinged by a sorrow, 
 To think that such happiness coukl not remain ; 
 
 While our parting, though sad, gave a hojic that to-morrow, 
 Would bring back the blest hour of meeting again I 
 
 So warmly we met," &c. 
 
 Just as we separated it came on to blow hard from 
 N.E., cold and wet ; a boat got adrift from the ship, and 
 I had the unenviable pleasure of hunting all the middle 
 watch for her withcat success — a pleasant finish to my 
 evening's enjoyment. 
 
 I have but one more brief association in connexion 
 with our " Arctic theatricals," and as it was given in 
 return for the few pleasant evenings we had afforded our 
 friends in adversity, it ought in justice to them to find a 
 place here with ours. 
 
 A "masquerade" was decided on for many reasonsy 
 but more pai'ticularly as some very comical and amusing 
 fellows were among the sailors, whose assbtance was 
 necessary, the number of officers being few. All were 
 requested to " come in character.'* 
 
MASQUERADE. 
 
 311 
 
 lusing 
 le was 
 |l were 
 
 This short notice required both activity and ingenuity 
 to prepare, and all day was occupied in putting together 
 the most indescribable dresses for characters, quite 
 original ! 
 
 The « Pickle Cock Woman, from Saltash." No per- 
 son knew who it was, he wjis so well disguised. For 
 twenty minutes he sat next to one of his own messmates, 
 and he did not know him. During a lull he went round 
 with the jar, tin plates, and pepper-box, complete — 
 " Buy any pickle cocks 1" — " By'ny pi-ckle cock." 
 
 Many others were in character, or rather out of cha- 
 racter ! Some had their winter dresses and masks on, 
 and did the Esquimaux well I 
 
 The evening passed both agreeably and pleasantly in 
 dancing and singing. Polkas, quadrilles, reels, and 
 waltzes through the ring- bolts, which vividly brought to 
 recollection dancing through the eggs at a fair. We had 
 supper and songs ; songs and supper, alternately, until 
 half-past seven next morning ! Some of the songs, 
 I must say, were not parliamentary. At eight we 
 wished each other a last farewell. It came on to blow a 
 gale from the N.E., the ship struck heavily on the 
 beach ; and, in returning to our vessel, the passage was 
 exceedingly rough and dangerous, and on several occa- 
 sions the boats nearly filled I 
 
 From these very brief notes it will be seen that such 
 evenings were not only amusing to ourselves but abso- 
 lutely necessary to keep uj) the spirits of our crew, who 
 had every reason to despond. 
 
i 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 s, 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOBNl>— PBELING9 — DOUBTrUL GROUP — ASSUMPTION — 
 MONSOON — A CIBCUMNAVIGATOB — FORMOSA — FISHING BOATS — 
 
 THE PILOT — BOAT WITHOUT "eYE" LOSE A DAT — HONG-KONG 
 
 — ADVANCEMENT — SICKNESS — WHOLESALE SACRIFICE — WEL- 
 COME — STEAM TO CANTON — INVALIDS — CONVOY — PIEDRA 
 BRANCA — SINGAPORE — INDIAN OCEAN — A SAD LOSS — SYMPTOM 
 OF A HURRICANE — SIMONS BAY — SENT TO HOSPITAL — DRUNKEN- 
 NESS — ITS EFFECTS — I^^CLININO HEALTH — THE PIGEONS. 
 
 To those only who have been for many years absent 
 from home, from all near and clear to them, can those 
 magic words " homeward bound " touch the heart, and 
 revive thoughts and feelings impossible to be described, 
 or even imagined. We were now actually on our voyage 
 to England; and although twenty-six thousand miles 
 distant, yet every day, every hour, shortened the space 
 between us. The bare thought of having our faces 
 once more turned even towards home made us forget our 
 weak and sickly state; and that we should soon again 
 be clasping in our embrace all who are dear to us, magi- 
 cally revived and made us forget, not only our long 
 absence, but all our troubles, hardships, and dangers ! 
 
DOUBTFUL GROUP. 
 
 313 
 
 MPTION — 
 BOATS — 
 )NO-KONG 
 :K — WEL- 
 — FI£UBA 
 -SYMPTOM 
 DRUNKEN- 
 
 Lms. 
 
 ;i absent 
 m those 
 art, and 
 Bscribed, 
 r voyage 
 id miles 
 le space 
 ar faces 
 rget our 
 )n again 
 s, magi- 
 ur long 
 rers! 
 
 "We purposely passed near a group of islands, said to 
 exist ill 174" E. and 21° N. (north of Patterson's Group), 
 where the master of a whaler had reported to us that, 
 having sent one of his boats on shore, three out of five 
 men were murdered by the natives, the fourth tortured 
 by being tied to a tree naked, and small gunpowder darts 
 shot at him, exploding while in the flesh ; the fifth was put 
 aside to he toiiured at some other time. We endeavoured 
 all in our power to discover the islands, although delay- 
 ing us, but to no purpose, they were not anywhere near 
 the positions assigned to them ; and although wrong in 
 the exact position given, the tale was, alas, too true. 
 
 Assumption Island, the most northern of the La- 
 drones, rising out of the sea, like a sugar-loaf, to the 
 height of two thousand feet, was passed — a barren, soli- 
 tary, volcanic rock ; its ])eak was clouded, and we could 
 not say if it was still an active volcano, as when visited 
 by Perouse. 
 
 The furious " monsoon " into which we had now 
 arrived, reduced us to close-reefed sails, many of which 
 were split and shifted. We were rather unprepared for 
 such rough handling, and our boats and sails suffered. 
 In my three previous voyages here I do not recollect 
 ever having such a troubled sea. 
 
 To-day I complete my first voyage round the world, 
 having sailed through every degree of longitude east and 
 west, and doubled both Capes Horn and Hope. I am 
 therefore privileged to ait on the table, and place both 
 my legs thereon, an indulgence which only those who 
 have circumnavigated the globe are entitled to. 
 
 Passing through the Bashce Isles, or rather rocks, 
 
su 
 
 BOAT WITHOUT EYE. 
 
 lit 
 
 about six in number, the sea became comparatively 
 smooth. "Formosa," the dreaded island where every 
 unfortunate shipwrecked mariner is murdered by the 
 natives, was passed, and next day we found a ^' fresh hand 
 at the bellows."' It was here, in this channel, I was bat- 
 tened down in a small vessel about eight years since, but 
 on the present occasion the sea was not so rough. 
 
 During the night, found ourselves among several hun- 
 dred Chinese fishing-boats in couples, and had much 
 difficulty in clearing them. It was a continual scene of 
 « hard up,'» " hard down," " hard tliis way," " hard that," 
 and we passed so close to some, that we could plainly hear 
 the fishermen chattering. At daylight a pilot boat was 
 under our quarter, out went the '' sampan," and on 
 board came the pilot All news was eagerly sought 
 after. He informed us that " One large vessel, one 
 piecey steam, one piecey brig," were at Hong-kong. 
 
 Several boats were now seen without eyes; and the 
 reason being asked, they had found out that there was 
 "no occasion for boat got eye. " " Man got eye^caii see." 
 
 On the day before arrival at Hong-kong we changed 
 the last day of November for the first of December — 
 having gone round the world, we had of course lost 
 twenty-four hours; and on our arrival on a Saturday, 
 which was of course with us scrub and wash, and polish 
 brass-work, we found all the people going to church I 
 
 On dropping anchor off Hong-kong, I was amazed at 
 the rapidity with which the town had advanced in eight 
 years. I could hardly believe it possible that a place 
 eighteen thousand miles from Europe could have changed 
 its aspects no (luickly, and with such advantage. 
 
SICKNESS. 
 
 810 
 
 'atively 
 I every 
 by the 
 ih hand 
 rag bat- 
 ice, but 
 
 *al hun- 
 1 much 
 scene of 
 •d that," 
 nly hear 
 )oat was 
 and on 
 ' sought 
 38cl, one 
 )ng. 
 and the 
 
 ere was 
 jan see." 
 changed 
 pmber— 
 ^rse lost 
 
 iturday, 
 |d polish 
 
 rchl 
 
 lazed at 
 eight 
 place 
 
 phanged 
 
 The town presented to us one of substantial elegance, 
 the buildings were large and extensive, the church looked 
 grand, and the Qovemment House a palace; the whole 
 face of the hill was a mass of buildings from West 
 Point, to Jardine, Matheson the opium kings.* 
 
 Although it was Sunday, the whole harbour was in 
 animation, the yachts darting everywhere about, junks 
 and sampans coming out to meet us, and every other new 
 arrival. This was indeed to me a change of scene. 
 
 Alas ! sickness here still prevails. One hundred and 
 fifty of the 55th Regiment died last season, and their re- 
 mains placed with many hundreds in that one common 
 grave, " Happy Valley." Two captains had died a short 
 time since, and the morning after our arrival another. 
 We follow his remains to " Happy Valley." A colonel 
 of artillery followed him very shortly ailer. 
 
 An American corvette welcomed us by a champagne 
 breakfast, the smartest and cleanest corvette on the 
 station. They tell us a sad tale ; that, while at anchor 
 at Macao, a day or two since, a large Poituguese fiigate 
 lay close to them, and while in the act of saluting, she 
 blew up, with from six to seven hundred persons on 
 board. Only one remained aUve to tell the awful tale. 
 The corvette's awnings, which were spread ^.t the 
 time, were covered with blood and scattered remains ; 
 the guns blew over her mast-head ; iron bolts and frag- 
 ments fell on board her. No one could tell how it 
 occurred. Some imagined it to be the act of a China- 
 man ; it was, to say the very least, a horrible story. 
 
 * Now, Sir James Matheson, Bart., M.P., the generous and 
 ZDUch respected Laird of Lews Castle, Stornoway. 
 
f: 
 
 II . 
 
 316 
 
 THE CONVOY. 
 
 'J Iiree steamers procoi'd to Canton every other day, 
 returning the next ; and this afforded a good opportu- 
 nity for those who had not seen the " Celestial City." I 
 did not avail myself of it, as I knew it and the river well 
 on former occasions. 
 
 Our stay at this place was short. We were already 
 weak and sickly, and had every reason to dread the 
 Hong kong fever ; and also knew, that if it onco seized 
 us, we had not the power or stamina to resist it, and 
 therefore very prudently sailed as soon as circumstances 
 pemiitted. Advantage was taken to send all the in- 
 valids to England, and when arranged, we sailed, having 
 under convoy a trading junk, which last voyage fell 
 into the hands of pirates, and was robbed of everything ; 
 they were blown to pieces afterwards by two of our 
 vessels, and since that the Cliinese, who are pirates or 
 fishermen, as convenient, ha\ cried vengeance on our 
 convoy. She was very glad, therefore, to sail in our wake. 
 
 The sailor's guide to Sing.apore Roads, Horsburgh 
 Lighthouse, on Piedra Bran'ca, is a grand beacon ; this 
 was erected by the East India Company, to commemo- 
 rate that great navigator in these seas. 
 
 Singapore had improved, and also increased rapidly, 
 being the high road to China. Our stay here was also 
 very limited. We were all anxiety to "be off," to 
 shorten our homeward voyage. Pashing through Mac- 
 clesfield Straits, with no little anxiety for the safety of 
 our old vessel, we again passed " Pulo Leat," the fatal 
 spot where the " Alceste " frigate was wrecked, on her 
 return from the embassy to China, and of which I have 
 before made mention. • ' 
 
A SAD LOSS. 
 
 317 
 
 ther day, 
 opportu- 
 City." I 
 •iver well 
 
 ■e already 
 Iread the 
 ICO seized 
 st it, and 
 imstances 
 
 II the in- 
 id, having 
 jyage fell 
 rerything ; 
 kvo of our 
 
 pirates or 
 ce on our 
 
 our wake, 
 orsburgh 
 
 con ; this 
 
 lommemo- 
 
 pd rapidly, 
 fe was also 
 off," to 
 [ugh Mac- 
 safety of 
 the fatal 
 led, on her 
 Ich I have 
 
 The Straits of Sunda were cleared in safety, and we 
 found ourselves on the wide Indian Ocean, taking care 
 to make every yard of canvas do its duty, to shorten, by 
 every means in our power, the few months that must 
 now elapse l)efore we breathe those sighs which years 
 have not forgotten. AVords want power to trace and 
 confess our feelings at this moment. 
 
 The Keolings or Cocos were just in sight, when all 
 had again to deplore the loss of an accomplished and 
 sincere friend and messmate. It was impos.sil>le that so 
 long and arduous and trying a voyage could have been 
 accomplished except by powerful constitutions. The 
 weak, of course, gave way first ; but, among all \\ho have 
 been torn from us, no loss can be more deplored than the 
 present. A cold was taken in our last voyagr north, 
 and it never left him ; nature became exhausted, and he 
 gradually sank, regretted by all those who had been his 
 messmates, now six years. 
 
 I was, myself, very ill at the time, and was lying 
 close to him in my cot. when, about midnight, I heard 
 the death rattle in his throat, and in a few moments his 
 heart had ceased to beat. 
 
 Next day his remains were committed to the deep. 
 I was too ill to pay the last tribute of respect to his 
 memory ; indeed, I hardly knew how soon I might be 
 following him. 
 
 It is truly distressing to be cut oflf at a moment when 
 all trials and troubles appear to be over, and when the 
 anticipation of " home " is brightening us up ; occurring 
 at the commencement of a voyage, with all our hardships 
 in perspective, we do not think so much of; but now he 
 
i 
 
 318 
 
 A HURRICANE. 
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
 leaves behind many to regret tlio Iors of an amiablo 
 mcssmnte, and a sincere and attached friend. 
 
 My health was still on the decline ; and, ttnpleoAant 
 as it was to me, I was ])laced in the same spot where our 
 estimable messmate had just breathed his last. There 
 was room nowhere else. But I still trusted in II im 
 whose finger had been my guardian through inntunerable 
 dangers, and I frequently and fervently prayed that He 
 would still be with me. 
 
 On passing the Mauritius, there was every symptom 
 of the approach of a hurricane, and it appeared to U8 
 fated that our old ship could not commence her seventh 
 year without some visitation. The barometers fell very 
 low, as much as one-tenth in a few minutes. All sail 
 was shortened ; topgallant masts and yards sent on deck, 
 and the masts secured, and we waited anxiously our 
 doom. The wind came in fearful gusts ; the lurid glare 
 all over the heavens was frightful ; and the scud, close 
 over our mastheads, passed with rapidity. 
 
 " 0, tliere's a holy calm profound 
 In awe like this, that ne'er was given 
 
 To pleasure's thrill ; 
 'Tis as a solemn voice from heaven, 
 And the soul, listening to the sound, 
 
 Lies mute and still." 
 
 In the evening the barometers stood etill, the wind 
 more steady, and the weather settled. The danger had 
 passed. We were on the outer edge of the Imrricane, 
 and thus escaped a peril so dreaded by sailors in these 
 regions, and at this very season. 
 
 Our voyage to the Cape yrofi long and tedious — nearly 
 
HOSPITAL. 
 
 319 
 
 amiablo 
 
 pleoAnnt 
 here our 
 There 
 in Him 
 imerable 
 that He 
 
 lymptom 
 red to U8 
 ' seventh 
 fell very 
 All sail 
 on deck, 
 usly our 
 rid glare 
 ad, close 
 
 he wind 
 ;er had 
 rricane, 
 in these 
 
 -nearly 
 
 two months— nevertheless wo were thankful fur having 
 at last arrived lafely. 
 
 The general appearance of Simon's Bay and town had 
 much improved during an absence of seven years. 
 Several new buildings hnd been erected, many enlarged, 
 and the arrangements of the gardens and grnundu 
 around them very pleasing ; this wjia added to by our 
 having a large store ship, or depdt, moored in the bay. 
 
 I was one of the number of sick ordered to the 
 hospital, to recruit during our stay here, and, having 
 been placed under the care of an old and much esteemed 
 messmate, I had every prospect of recovering, suffi- 
 ciently to luidertake tlie remaining portion of tho 
 voyage. 
 
 There is not a doubt but " Dninkenncss is the root 
 of all evil " on board a ship. If we carefully analyze 
 every error, every fault that is committed, we can trace 
 it to a propensity for liquor ; if a robbery, it is either 
 done under the influence of spirits, or in an endeavour 
 to get at it. Mostly all accidents (and I have witnessed 
 some heartrending ones) are attributable to dioinkenness ; 
 insolence, which can never be tolerated in a well-disci- 
 plined vessel, may bo generally traced to inebriety ; to 
 drunkenness may be traced desertion and leave-breaking. 
 Murders and other heinous offences are mostly com- 
 mitted while labouring under intoxication ; and now we 
 lose one of our best petty ofiicers by a fall down the 
 fore hold while in a state of drunkenness, a steady, 
 faithful person, who has just commenced his seventh 
 year with us ; but when his love for spirits masters him, 
 he is gone ! He has now paid the forfeit by his life. 
 
320 
 
 OHUNKKNNFSM, 
 
 And wliile I tM. in my Imspital window, l\is tanj;'ra5 
 pnspcs l)y ! 
 
 What a temptifig and enticing' service ours would be, 
 if we couid do away witli .i})irits ; if mf>n could hut b« 
 inside to resist the temptation of drinking to excess ! 
 Teetoxat societies are bjid ! men do not like recording 
 their names aruon^ a long list of reformed drunkards^ 
 who are eompelled to n\fike a pled^ri? to save tljemsehes. 
 Some take the liret opportunity to drink, an«l are always 
 longisig until f-atlsfied ; l)ut if we coidd a})[)e,al to their 
 good Kense, their feelings, Jind ha\e no spirits in our 
 shipa, we slsonld tlien have no H(»g<.^ing, jio pijuii>hments, 
 no stopping k^ave ; all woviid he jdea.'jiure suul cow fort, 
 and the aervico woidd ho then, in(h;od, invitinji^. 
 
 There is no <h)viht hut drunkerjness i:> hist on tiie 
 (k'cline, from tlic strict vet necesisarv rei'idations noAv in 
 foree, and from tl)e fjuantify \kA\v^ reduced to half tiie 
 allowance ; but still we have intoxicaiioTi, whieh leadn to 
 criiDe and consotpient punisfnnent. How, then, can wo 
 entirely stop it t 
 
 What credit would he due to anv one, and what an 
 inward consolation to In'niseH', if he could but devise a 
 method for suppressing drunkcMmess in her MnjeKty's 
 service I No n)onument could be creeled of sufficient 
 raagiiitudo to hold forth to the world such a hf.nefit, antl 
 do KutKcieiit honour to the originator, Oilen have 1 
 thought, and as oRen failed, and many wiser heads than 
 mine have ilone t))e same. What hrnefi's, what 
 ble^yings wotdd arise, what hundre'ls of lives woidd bo 
 saved, and what thotiwuids of wives and ehildreri would 
 be saved from monruiriij;' widows and distressed fcniilies! 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 I 
 
DRrNKr.NXKSS. 
 
 321 
 
 Tf an annual statJHtical a/comU were drawn up of the 
 nuiuhor of oases of druiiikenMoss, the crime committei! 
 iiurinj^ moments of intemperance, the puuishintnt con- 
 sequent on this crime, tlje numl»er of accidenis, deatiis, 
 ijijuties, &.'., and the con^e^juent result of mourning, dis- 
 tress, want, and starvation c;iused by these deaths ; this 
 freely circulated throut:^h every \ cssel of war, and indeed 
 all ships, I GUI. not but tliink it wouW impress itself 
 deeply on every truoheartid sailor; ami hi- would in 
 tivtie, \*hen these unliappy oeeurrences took pl.t<'<' before 
 his eyes, sec tlie f<>lly and madnens jf intern jH-rance, not 
 only in his pre'^eiit temporal state, but in that ol'elernitv 
 to come. 
 
 1 might tT'^ <i» pf<J(P ''ifter page dihttinjt; on tlu inmi- 
 merable foiliea and niimitlou ol drtmkenness, but it 
 would not b(^ fiiir to my yomiL!; ivaders, who li;»ve }><>en 
 no doubt already weaned and unprep.u'ed ior >» joiiij: 
 ft yum ou this unp!ea!<a>»t subjict. Ihit when they have 
 witnessed as niunerous sad con^eijuences as I hav** of 
 boai-^ capsizing, dmwjjinu; whole crews, leavini^ \vi<jM\vs 
 and children to na»un> arid starve ; nu-n lidliiii,' ox-r- 
 board and drownine;, faliinj.;; down from aloft ami iheblrr* 
 their brains out ; deserting, and h>avin<4; v(}iirs of Hervj.c 
 and pay behind them; and all these limine- motheix, 
 wives, sisters, and ehildrc!) wholly dependiujL' on ihent 
 for their daily food — then my yonnj; n.'ader will think 
 with me, tluit in no cause could he devote himself niorc> 
 creditably or beneficially to his servi'ee than by \'ndeu- 
 vouring to supjily a remedy a<vainst this fearful evil. 
 
 We all aeain embarked much improved in healtli and 
 spiritH, aiid foiuid ourselves again ''rolling d«>wn to St. 
 
 V 
 
322 
 
 DECLINING HEALTH. 
 
 Helena." Much indebted to a clean and healthy hospi- 
 tal, a kind and tender doctor, with gentle yet nourishing 
 food, ibr being nmde sufficiently stron*; to undertake the 
 voyage ; but our sicknoss hud made so deep an inroad 
 on our constitutions, that it would take a very long time 
 before we could be entirely well. 
 
 Twelve days brought us to Napoleon's late exile, St. 
 Helena. Nothing having occurred on the passage, but 
 (in passing a brig two pigeons left her, and reuuiined 
 with us as passengers until our arrival here, when they 
 returned to their own home. 
 
 fir 
 
CHAPTER LAST. 
 
 »T. HELENA — ASCE^8ION 18I<E — ArOIUENT — Af.niON » SHORES — 
 rKKMNOS — LETTEB8 — I'BOMOTIUN — THE Ol.iBV — A HINT — 
 FAREWELL. 
 
 As we were compelled to remain here for three days, I 
 was determined to sec as mudi of this interesting island 
 as possible. My former visits having been short, I had 
 not opportunities. 
 
 I unfortunately got into t!'o most extravagant liotel in 
 the place, *' The St. Helena," which was objectionable 
 for more reasons than this one, 
 
 I rode over the whole island, to Longwood, Hut's 
 Gate, Sandy Bay, and lastly, to Rupert's Valley, wliere 
 I saw 375 slaves in their innocent simplicity, encamped, 
 under capital management, in clean huts. Thoy turn«jd 
 out and danced their native dance, and gave nic three 
 cheers for some presents I had distributed among them ; 
 and altogether, their superinU'udent deserves much 
 credit for his admirable arrangements. They hml been 
 taken in difVerent slavers, and were now waiting a ])assage 
 to their native countrv, Africa. 
 
 Y 2 
 
3 it 
 
 AS("ENSir-N. 
 
 a 
 
 Tlio anchor was ajrain " tossed up"; we Itadc adieu to 
 St. James' Valley, (jood-ltye, extravagant Mrs. L., may 
 we never see you a<j;ain ! Adieu, Dummies, Munikies 
 and tlie Lumkies ; a long story mi^lit be told of you, 
 and all the scandal, which does not lose any hy being 
 passed from house to house between you. Adieu, then 
 — a last adieu I 
 
 On arrival at Ascension, by the hosj)itality and good- 
 nature of a (jorernor whom all know, and all who have 
 the pi'ivilege of knowing, idolise ; I was supj)lied with the 
 means of reaching " Green Mount." It is impossible to 
 imagine so groat a contrast existing on the same island 
 without seeing it — from a sunburnt cinder, you arc 
 transported to a cool and pleasant evergreen. 
 
 The Couimiulore's cottage, on the summit of the 
 island, is surrounded by gar.lens and green shrubs ; 
 the ravines are alive with rabbils and Guineu-fowl ; 
 the atmosphere clear and cool, and twelve degrees 
 lower in temperature than the town ; altogether 
 presenting a scene as unlike the rest of the island 
 as it is possible to imagine. In the Commodore's 
 room we mad(.' a hearty luncheon, having the key of tho 
 cellar, in which wore cool sherry, ale, and pevter ; a stroll 
 through " Tiove Lane" (alone), and a trip to the com- 
 fortable hospital to See an old messniate, passed an after- 
 noon, a): 1 £ was very loth to leave these scenes of verdure 
 and lur H'ianco, for tho dusty, hot, sunburnt town of lava 
 and cinilers. 
 
 Wii dined an 1 passed an agreeable evening with the 
 hospitable, kind, and generous-hearted Governor an<l 
 Commodore. 
 
AN ACCIDFNT. 
 
 32ri 
 
 uHfU to 
 L., may 
 [umUies 
 of yoii, 
 )y being 
 
 evj, then 
 
 nd goocl- 
 vho have 
 
 with the 
 rjssiblo to 
 ne iahmd 
 
 you arc 
 
 it of the 
 I fthruhs; 
 noiv-fowl ; 
 ! (h'j^i'ecs 
 iilt(\t!;other 
 w. ishind 
 ninodorc's 
 ti«y of the 
 ; a stroll 
 too com- 
 l an aftor- 
 i)f vorduro 
 >wu of hiva 
 
 with the 
 crnoi" an'l 
 
 M 
 
 More invaUds were crammed into us ; and our sliip 
 was now certainly an " hospital " adrift, floating about 
 and endeavouring to resuBcitate unfortunates in their last 
 stagc'H of life, by change of air. The anchor was again 
 weighed — for the last tirae. 
 
 Several vessels were passefl and spoken with, but from 
 none did we get any important, or even interesting news. 
 Passing through the Azores, we struck a iwrjioise, which 
 was indeed a treat ; our provisions were already getting 
 both short and had, hoiliug uway in cooking to less than 
 half their weight. 
 
 Before arriving in th .' Channel, the invalids from 
 China and the Coast of Africa were the best-looking 
 and most healthy men in the vessel ; they looked 
 strong and robust when [daced in contrast by our 
 poor follows, who had undergone such changes and 
 extremes of climate — now in their seccnth year. 
 
 An unfortunate accident occurred to one of the boys, 
 while reefing the mizon-topsail. He fell from th»' yard 
 on the poop — horrihly mangled I When I looked in his 
 face, I reallvclid not know who it was; I could roco^nizo 
 no feature. This was the second, under exactiv siniihir 
 circumstances. 
 
 On Hearing the Channel, with a plea&rtnt W.N.W. 
 wind, and lots of comi)any, vessels of all rigs and sizi-s, 
 our first indication of land was off' the Irish coast, when 
 we rounded to and sounded, in eighty fathoms, bringing 
 up ''fine sand and shells." We gazed ';ven on these 
 particles of the shores of Europe wllh deligat, consiilering 
 ■ mrselves now fairly within roacli of oiu* homes, and could 
 f,hiid\ of nothing el.sr. At dayliglit ntxt morning, heiu'ld 
 
326 
 
 ALIUONS 8H0UES. 
 
 t ': 
 
 tlic Scilly Islands ! Our eyes were rivettcd to tlie spot ; 
 we could hardly believe that we were gazing on Albion's 
 shores. To describe the joy all felt would be impossible. 
 After an absence of six long years, wandering over one 
 hundred and twenty thousand miles of water (five times 
 the circumference of the globe), passing through every 
 degree of longitude, and from 60° South latitude to 73° 
 North, really made us feel overjoyed at the prospect of 
 being so near liorae. West country weather, of course, 
 welcomed us — thick, misty, and rainy — but towards 
 sunset the veil was lifted^ and a lovely evening presented 
 to our view the well-known port of Plymouth. 
 
 The scenes of my boyish days — of my happy wander- 
 ings, when care was but a name — my ever-memorable 
 launch on the ** wide world of waters" — all passed before 
 mo in an instant, the most pleasurable sensations ima- 
 ginable ! 
 
 I could plainly see my old school-house, '' Windsor," 
 where many a day I had played the truant, where 
 many a night I excited my bedroom friends to riot and 
 mischief. A little farther to the westward, the cupola 
 of a public building reminded me of the happy days in 
 Plymouth Hospital, and where oven then my boyish pro- 
 pensities did not leave me. 
 
 As we ran rapidly towards " Start Point," I could even 
 trace the pleasant walks, the happy hours, and almost 
 imagine I saw in spirit the haj)py faces with whom I've 
 wandered— rashly promising all manner of improbable 
 and impossible things (without thought of the conse- 
 quences), which I knew never would, nor never could 
 haj)pen. 1 could see myself, in imagination, proudly 
 
e spot; 
 ilbion's 
 ossiblc. 
 ^rcr one 
 a times 
 I every 
 5 to 73° 
 pect of 
 course, 
 towards 
 esented 
 
 kvander- 
 ntioral)le 
 i before 
 ins iina- 
 
 indsor," 
 
 where 
 
 lot and 
 
 cupola 
 
 days in 
 
 isli pro- 
 
 FEELINGS 
 
 t 
 
 327 
 
 i( 
 
 I oven 
 
 almost 
 
 oni I've 
 
 )robable 
 
 conse- 
 
 r could 
 
 proudly 
 
 pacing the first "quarter-deck" I had ever pTaccd my 
 foot on, taking, now and tiien, a sly look at my shining 
 dirk and buttons, with the air and satisfaction of a young 
 sea officer. 
 
 These days have all now passed and gone, but they 
 recur to me with a ])leasure not easily described. Thoy 
 are still fresh in happy memory, and more so from hav- 
 ing been recorded d;nly in my Midshipman's Diauy. 
 
 We had now taken our pilot, and were running through 
 the Needles as fast as a " Kyde steamer," blowing almost 
 a gale from S.W. 
 
 A largo stpiadron la} at Spitliead, a novel sight for us. 
 On passing one, she kindly incjuired what ship wo were ? 
 We had been so long absent, the pilot had never even 
 heard of our name. We nearly ran down the Admiral- 
 Superintendent in his yacht ; and, when on the point of 
 rounding-to to let go our anchor, up went the signal from 
 the flag-ship, " 40 i Geo. K.G.F.," which, being trans- 
 lated) means '' Proceed immediately to Chatham." This 
 reception could not be termed warm or cordial after so 
 long an absence ; but wc knew the quicker there, the 
 sooner free. All sail was again made ! 
 
 While " wearing,"" the spire of St. Thoinus' Church, 
 the South Sea Rooms, the Dockyard, all in rotation 
 reminded me of bygone days. At each of these had 
 scenes occurred, some years since, that could never be 
 forgotten. Those friends, where are they now? Scat- 
 tered all over the world, never to be seen, or perhaps met 
 again. I therefore turned my back on Portsmouth 
 without much sorrow or regret. 
 
 We had not vet been able to send one line to our 
 
328 
 
 LK/rrKRS. 
 
 
 ? 1 
 
 friends, to nnnotinco our arrival, or s:iy wc were alivo. 
 On passinf; "Hocdiy Head," liowever, a Deal pilot-boat 
 nUiiidi'il UH that opj)ort»inity, and ^ave our most anxious 
 friends a sliort nott'. 
 
 Our ship was towed into Shecrness by two powerful 
 8toani-t«i;^s, in the midst of a north-west ^ale. All our 
 sick, fifly-two in number, were sent to the hospital. l*oor 
 fellows, what d*.'light they led the ship with ; they had 
 improveil in health from the etl'ect of inhalinf^ their 
 mother climate, but many of them were beyond all hopes 
 — walking spectres, oidy held together by Nature's last 
 impulse. 
 
 ihe anchor was scarcely let go when the letter-bag 
 arrived on board. I had been exactly one year and eight 
 months without a letter. I did not know whether all 
 my friends may bo dead or alive. I eajferly tore (ipen 
 my letter. '' Thank God ! " I exclaimed ; " not only 
 alive, but ' all well.' " Not so, I grieve to say, with many 
 
 others. i 
 
 Letters lay unclaimed, unojieiicd, for those long 
 
 since committed to the deep sea — mouldered away to 
 duHt, or torn to fragments by demons of the ocean; 
 others expecting letters from those who had ceased to 
 exist. It was a moment of singular uniting of pain and 
 pleasure. 
 
 We were "mustered" (that is, our names called over) 
 and inspected by the admiral, and (as on every other 
 (tccasion when going tlirough this onleal) highly compli- 
 mented on the general efficiency, cleanliiK'8.s, and disci- 
 pline of the ship. This was exceediugly complimentary 
 anil «»ratitying to all, but tin; credit was wholly due to a 
 
MY I'ROMOTION. 
 
 329 
 
 kiiul, goorl-heartcd, and generous captain, and to a first 
 lieutenant whose better is not to be found in her Majesty's 
 service. 
 
 After tliis, tlie .ship was " paid off," and wc, wlio had 
 been together within tlie small space of a vessel for six 
 years and a half, were now all scattered — perhaps never 
 to meet again ! Such is a sailor's life. 
 
 The morning before the pendant was hauled down, 
 the postman arrived, as usual, with his letters. Among 
 them was an official one for me, which I lost no time in 
 opening, and road as follows : — 
 
 Admiralty, &c. 
 
 Sir, — My Lords Coniinissioners of the Admiralty having been 
 pleased to promote you to the rank of Lieutenant, I have to 
 inform you that your conunission is with the Chief Clerk of this 
 ofHce. 
 
 (Signed) Tiik Skcretary to the Admiralty. 
 
 lone 
 
 This is the last notation in my Midshipman's Journal, 
 and here must conclude, also, my " Tales of the Sea." 
 T fear I have trespassed on the patience of my kind young 
 readers, and hardly know what excuse to offer in my 
 defence. If I have bjcen the cause of inducing only one 
 to begin and to keep a journal, I have nothing to fear, 
 for then one of my great objects is gained ; but I hope I 
 shall have induced many. If they had but the shadow 
 of an idea what real pleasure it affords in turning back 
 the leaves of an old journal of events long forgotten, 
 there would be no hesitation ; but no person can expect 
 that pleasure but those who have journals. Begin, then, 
 and keep a journal ; do not say you have nothing to 
 record — that is the evcrla.sting excuse. Time you have 
 
330 
 
 TIFK niAHV 
 
 i 
 
 hi< 
 
 plenty, and subjects always, if you only look around for 
 tliem. Sec what a stiipid hp^innin*^ I made, wlicn I 
 noted the effect of Sam Scott's leap on a poor '* dockyard 
 matey." See what a still more diy cominoncement our 
 great type, " Hasil Hall," made, when he recorded 
 having gone to Dcptford in a hackney coach, and, when 
 he got there, " he got out of the coach" ; ami many 
 othei^ have just as absurd beginnings. But the taste 
 gradually yet imperceptibly grows on us ; new features 
 attract us, particularly when on the " trackless ocean," 
 and we enter into their description with delight. 
 
 Things do not strike us nil with the same force ; that 
 is, when many are viewir.g the same scene, there are 
 parts in it which delight and attract some, while on others 
 there is no apparent ellect ; and this is why we should 
 all keep journals. One would record what another passed 
 unnoticed ; then what a fund f)f treasure and knowledge 
 wo should be collecting and storing ; for no people havo 
 the advantages that sailors possess. 
 
 Do. tlicn, my young friends, let me entreat of you, for 
 your own sakes, to keep journals, and they will repay 
 you when your ship "pays off," or you go on leave 
 among your friends. When you are seated around your 
 drawing-room fire, with all your family and relations 
 caressing you, you will be able to record your adventures 
 from your journal as correctly and as freshly as if they 
 occurred but yesterday. 
 
 But, in advising you to keep a diaiy, let me, in all 
 sincerity, offer you a necessary warning. It is an error 
 yoii fall into unawares. Never let your remarks be per- 
 Honal, even if in favour of whom vou would wish to 
 
A 11 TNT 
 
 am 
 
 iind for 
 ivlion I 
 )ckyard 
 cut our 
 ?conlo(l 
 1, wlion 
 I manv 
 ic taste 
 features 
 ocean," 
 
 ;e; tliat 
 lere arc 
 n others 
 » sliouUl 
 ■r passed 
 nwlediio 
 )le havo 
 
 you, for 
 
 repay 
 
 leave 
 
 nd your 
 
 lations 
 
 entures 
 
 if they 
 
 , in all 
 111 error 
 be pev- 
 wish to 
 
 Rpcak ; perhaps it may not be as amiably accepted as 
 you intended it, then both are oftended, but alwiiys 
 Hpeak rather in praise of any jxirson or thing, than the 
 contrary. 
 
 Alth(>u<^li your diary should be held, strietly speaking, 
 ''private," do not commence or write it with that imj)res- 
 sion. It must frequently be seen when you are called 
 away hurriedly ; many will be curious en(UJ«jh to peniso 
 it, and, shoidd it tlms fall into strange hands, you havo 
 the satisfaction of knowing that in it you have nothing 
 that you do not mind being made public, and that all 
 you have said therein, as a general rule, has been in 
 praise and in favour. Truth should be the grand basis 
 of your diary. I do not mean, by truth, the contrary to 
 falsehood; but I mean that incidents should be noted 
 carefully and originally, as they are 8€ei\. They can 
 always be expanded or end)ellished afterwards, if 
 necessary. 
 
 Never let your journal be one day in arrear ; if yon 
 do, some more interesting occuiTence may take i)lace, and 
 all idea of the former vanish. 
 
 Your temper ami patience will, perhaps, sometimes be 
 tested by those not pos.sessing your determination to keep 
 a journal ; and you may be taunted by such remarks as 
 "At it again," " Put \\\c down for a pint," " Button your 
 pockets," and many others. Take them all in good 
 part — you will have the advantage by-and-bye. 
 
 There is no doubt a great <leal of this advice is qiute 
 unnecessary, and I merely oft'er it, .as I felt I recpiired it, 
 at times, myself, and is really now o>dy intended ftir the 
 juvavile heginvcrs. 
 
Mi'J 
 
 FAUi:WKLI„ 
 
 I am now, ns you wore informed by the very lust note 
 in my Diary, u Likutknant. I still kcej) n journal, but 
 it is one on a much more extensive scale — one that I can 
 refer to for information. In it aro contained the remarks 
 of " Two Voyages round the World," and I promise, if 
 my "scattered leaves" arc acceptable, to commence 
 forthwith, and prepare a second volume of remarks and 
 incidents which, I hojio, will bo found to combine 
 instruction with amusement. 
 
 ^'rtrttocll. 
 
 IiONDON : 
 YATEa AND AT.BXANDKR, PBINTERA, lIOUKEgllOR CODRT, LDDOATE IIILL. 
 
lust note 
 'iml, but 
 lat I can 
 remnrks 
 omise, if 
 immencc 
 uks niul 
 coiultiiiu 
 
 E IltLL. 
 
 I 
 
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