IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I IIIM IIIIIU IM 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ■^ 6" — ► "/}. <^^ 'cr-l .>> ^m % /. y /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation i\ J.- ^ 6^ •^X <^ #^ <^ signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols V signifie 'FIN ". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmAs A das taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est fiimA A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imagas nAcessaira. Las diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 A Ik" VR * LONE LIFE: A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS BT PARKER G I L L M O R E, Al'TlIOK OP 1»*'I»RATRIE AND FOBEST," "GUN, ROD, AND SADDLE," "AFLOAT AND ASIIOHF^' ••ALL UOUND THE WOULD," "A HUNTKll'3 ADVENTUUES IN THE '; FAR WEST," "PRAiniE FARMS AND PBAIl^H FOLKS," " ACCESSIBLE FIELD SPORTS," &C. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. •« 1876. * * r \031.&^ v.l wmioi Al BlU'KINC * . TO EMILY I DEDICATE THIS WOUK, wrriiouT WHOM tue remainder of mv existence would ^ TRULY BE A LONE LIFE. Atlantic Clob, BlU'KINailAM PALACE ROAD. * , 178169 u ^ day, d pool, send 1 brand' maind strong sessed ther, t enerrre likely i VOL. / > LONE LIFE: A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. CHAPTER I. ; In the month of October, on a peculiarly English ^ day, dull, raw, damp, and dirty, I set sail from Liver- pool. There was just sufficient swell on the bar to send half the passengers to tlieir bunks, and make brandy and soda in great request among the re- mainder. When outside, the timid expressed themselves in strong terms against the utter disregard for life pos- sessed by nautical men, in going to sea in such wea- ther, the objects of their indignation looking rosy, energetic, and far from conscious that they were likely soon to become food for fishes. VOL. I. B LONE life: The further we retreated from the shores of OKI Enfi^land the heavier hecame the seas^ and the winds piped up in proportion ; but in spite of a Tripoli being smashed on the coast of Ireland, a City of Boston foun- derin|r in mid ocean, and the Atlantic having knocked herself into a cocked-hat on Nova Scotia, nothing occurred to break the monotony of our voyage, un- less a mania for draw-poker, and a lottery epidemic, both of which were most virulent and general, cold water being the sole application that appeared to act as a mitigator, for it was only while a blue sea was knocking about the furniture in the smoking- room, that any cessation in these maladies became noticeable. Some inhabitants of London escaped the sting of the plague, neither was Egypt entirely depopulated by the same disease, so we had on board a few that were not affected by the prevailing disorders. These were generally young men who dreamt of collisions by night and thought of shipwrecks by day, who nearly went off their legs from horror when a weatlier- beaten salt was more forcible than polite in language, or listened with elongated pious face and upturned eyes to the latest and raciest of jokes. But in spite of croakers and predictors of evil, Sandy Hook was sighted at sunrise ; in a few hours A YEAR IN THE WILDEKNE88. afterwards New York wns gained, and our Trans- atlantic passage was completed within eleven days. A bath, change of clothes, and good dinner at Del- monico^s took away my sea-legs, and caused me to feel as free from fatigue as if 1 had not been hubmitted to greater exertion than a stroll down Uegent-street. The metropolis of the Western World has been so often described that I will not inflict the reader witli one word upon the subject further than say that it looked none the less busy than in former times, and that the numerous new buildings that had been erected were well worthy to grace any city in the universe. My desire is to escape the bustle and din of traffic, to get where the putting of locomotives, and the sonorous yell of the steam whistle has not penetrated — to be surrounded by the works of Nature, not those of man. To accomplish this in the most rapid and agreeable manner, I take passage via tlie Hudson River Kail- road to Lewiston by way of Albany, for to the North — the far-distant North, region of lakes and rivers, of boundless woods and barrens, of deep winter snows and nightless days — is my destination. When the conveyance deposits me at the train, and the hurry and bustle of securing my ticket and clieck- b2 LONE MFK: in^ my bapgn^c has passed, I fuel that I have earned the riglit to take notice of the different flights that surround me, foremost among which is an immense board witli the novel information indited upon it, " When you liear the bell look out for the locomo- tive." And scarcely had I commenced to puzzle my brain on this gratuitous hint, than a most discordant din caused me to look forth from my car, when I found out that it was a warning to clear the track and give place to the advance of tlie powerful steam horse. For miles wo thread streets bounded on both sides by populous dwellings, still not a rope or ditch sepa- rates the railway from other traffic, yet troops of children on either side play at the various games most in vogue among the rising generation of the Great Kepublic. Doting mothers here, I think, must have an anxious time. Still, I must confess, I did not see any excited females rushing about to look after their progeny. The truth of the matter is simply this : at the age English hopefuls would be in perambulators, or at any event under charge of a nursery-maid, these embryo western citizens are able to take care of themselves. By degrees dwellings become less numerous and 1 more irregular in style of architecture, and our pace increases to fifteen miles an hour, soon affording us a view of the glorious Hudson River, and of the A YEAR IN TUB WILDEIINESS. rocky wuod-clud hci^rhts that surround it. Of all scnsoiiA of the ycnr this is the ono to sec this locnhty in |K»rfL'(!ti()ii, for although never othoiwisc thnn beau- tiful, it is now indescribahly h>vely, recalling far nioro visions of dreamland than stern reality. As wo ad- vance evorj' bend and turn disclose fresh attractions, till the brain becomes bewildered in its embarrassment of riches. Six or seven hours under ordinary circumstances in a train, is certainly monotonous, but in this in- stance it is not so, for the mind has never been with- out food for thought, or the eye objects of admiration. At length wc halt opposite to Albany, city of canal- boats and machine shops, and the greater portion of our passengers hurry off to reach the ferry-boat that is waiting to convey them' to its legislative shades, for know this is the capital of the State, and carpet- baggers, button-holers, and place-hunters haunt their friends in office, as mosquitoes would an intruder into a swamp. At length newspaper boys, hack men, and hotel touts are got rid of, the deep bass whistle grunts a warning, the bell again commences its measured tinkle, and the train is once more under motion. Troy is the next place where a halt takes place ; in size, go-aheadism, and wealth it outshines Albany. To carefully survey the people, and form an estimate of 1 oNr t irtr» \\\<>\)\ rn>»n ihoiv nwutniM, mmi \VMnl<' Hml il •lilllcnli 1o »looi«lo ul\rllwM- i\\t\ {\\o\\^\\\\ Now VimK rilv mIioiiIiI l>o )Nt>^\ijtn\« bnvo no fintitll oflliioulo nl (lioin- linooil woino wol i««»lvt^"«, jn\»l n\ Ihon- Inno MfiV(» prot Known o]\iu't\otor««. llootwn\, iho pri/o li^hlor, Imiloil f\\Mn IwMv, in\«l i(«« yonlh «»f ll\o proqonl jronornllon tnko rts n\n«"l\ ii\lon's( in llu» iVjilonnlv, »•' lln> olo^r l>tv>1o»l nrt(i\o«« of OMl\:\n> woiiM in n Kii'Kinu niith'li Nvnoiv ono ol ll\o ooivlostunn wos t« wlnm^riM', anil worn on Inn oN(\vn\itios |>\»\npi. To d nnll\o of Hh» «Mly of Nt»>v VovK, .\lU:\ny i\\\\\ Tnn ino " ono-liorso pliu'ow," in tl\o\r ow»\ opinion \]\v\ iwv "n fo»n* in hnnd, niul not) \n>jT loss ;V,o;\in ll\o tinKlp linKl* of (ho holl (oIIm (ho honr fov»lo]^'»v(nn\ ;\nvl (InMnnn ooninuMuvs (o niovo ; »(ill Xhc \>n*tlo ;\nr so.Us, nn«l frion«ls luihlin^r n^liou .-wv lo(h (»> ]>;ir(, hn( o\n* spood oondnnoM |o inoivaso. (l\c l;\s( nu>nuM\( (\>r (lisiMnharkudon Imji ji\Tivi\l. nnvl in spi(o of tho prol>Mh\li(ioM of hrokon lo^ A\u\ ho:vls, all tho non-travollors Mi»lii»«|, fui'l for friil*»i wo rolniii it in viow. h*i v)iri>w| |ifiril- jmrtcd. Wliat Ixitlcr pnxif of ilm indnRtry and energy of a great and free ])e,oj»lc ean we desire, than such a wondcjrful transformation a« has been hero effected T 8 LONE LIFE: Ai daylight fades away, moonlight takes its place ; and such a moon I none of your washy crescent-shaped nondescripts, but almost a rival in size and power to the sun. Not that America possesses another ot a better moon than we do, yet there are times in which she show5 to greater advantage on the Western Continent than ever I have known her in England. The change of light docs not prevent a good view of the country being obtained, for when Cayuga and Geneva lakes are passed, the distant boats, and more distant villas, can easily be distinguished. Travelling to me at night always appears more expeditious tlian by day. So when the crowd of baggage men and hotel touts crowd on board the cars before reaching the city of Rochester, I wonder how it is possible that the train has run so far. But if for a moment I imagine some mistake has been made, that it is another town we are approach- ing, the deep dark abyss of the Genesse Falls, the towering flour mills, and the size of the station, set the matter at rest for ever. Here I change carriages, Lewiston on Lake Ontario being my destination, for those I have come thus far in are bound for Buffalo. After granting sufficient grace to enable me to A YEAR IN TUE WILDERNESS. scald myself with a cup of coffee, the warning bell commences to tinkle, and disgusted with its mono- tonous tin-pot note, for I had not taken a liking to it from the commencement, I scramble into a seat, not without having to use considerable energy and force, for like myself many others had delayed ta the last moment, and had no more idea of being left behind than your humble servant. All is said to be fair in love and war ; I imagine that it is deemed so in trying to get into a train in America, after it has ffot under wav. After leaving Rochester the country is none the less rich than heretofore, wheat being the staple pro- duction, while fruit is cultivated to a great extent ; in fact, the apples from this district cannot be sur- passed, and are a large source of revenue to the farmer. The moon is still high in the heavens, so I can see for miles. The ridge in the distance is the commencement of elevated spurs, denominated the Bear liidges, for at one time the bruin family were so numerous on them, that they constituted a large por- tion of the early settlers' food ; but, alas ! they have ceased to know what was once their home, and the only return the sportsman would find for his labour, who tramped over these wood-clad plateaus, would be abundance of ^voodcock, who, strange to say, 10 LONE LIFE: have only discovered this favourite feeding ground within a few years. Lockport is next reached, well meriting the name) for its locks are deserving of the greatest admiration' they being not only large, but admirably constructed. Their elevation and number I cannot say, still both are very great. Many years ago I resided near this thriving place of business ; then it was only a vil- lage, and land was to be purchased within a few miles of its |.recincts for fifteen dollars an acre. After making the American coin into pounds sterling, I doubt if a square foot could now be bought be- tween the canal and Lake Ontario. On leaving the last-mentioned station, farm-yards, orchards, and woodlands are passed in pleasant suc- cession, and ultimately the train slowly enters Lewiston, the termination of the first part of my journey, a pretty town situated upon the banks of the Niagara River, where it mingles its waters with blue Ontario. The dinner gong had sounded before I left my bedroom, for being constructed in pretty much the same mould as other mortals, I was sensible of the fatigue of yesterday's journey ; however, the delay till next morning, when I should catch the steamer for Toronto, was of little moment, so I killed the enemy, time, by wandering about the fort and bastions that once had possessed no small amount of A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. n i .1 .1 1 importance. Like all garrison towns, there is an aristocratic tone about, id est, if the military element is not overdone, but only sufficient of it to give the slightest spice to society — for like garlic in cooking, admirable when not abused, the reverse when over- done. The life of the officers of the United States regular service stationed here, I should think much resembled what it used to be in Great Britain in the good old days of four company depots, before rifle drill, scaling drill, depot battalions, and ever so many more devices were invented by a lot of feather-bed, bad- tempered, stay-at-home, theoretical and not practical old fools, for the worry and annoyance of those whose value in the field in case of war was without price. Before me, as I write, looking back into the log- book of memory, I can see a General who never saw a shot fired in his life except at a review, bullying to death an old subaltern, whose brow was tanned with years of service on the plains of India, whose stalwart figure bore many a scar, and whose heart beat under numerous medals — because whyt he had made a mistake in his addition, and forgot the weight of a bayonet. As long as the door of the Horse Guards is open to sycophants and the rela- tives of politicians, whose influence has to be bought 12 LONE LIFE: ! I over, such tliln«:js will exist, and thus we lose year by year men, one of whom would bo of more use to the country than a brigade of the others. In due time the steam-boat for Toronto sailed. Ontario was on her good behaviour, and looked as blue and calm as the Bay of Naples in midsummer, when not a breath of air moves with sufficient force to swell the lateen-rigged crafts that sleep upon its placid bosom. A few hours and our destination is reached. Ciianged from when I last saw it, yes, changed indeed, for dwellings and structures have i i v n where formerly nothing but waste common could be seen. The old hotel, its name now forgotten, had given place to a structure worthy of • ny capital, but the change is acceptable, for the promise of creature comfort is greater than in days gone by, and while within the pale of civilisation, there are few fonder of luxury than self. The difference between cities of the United States and Canada is very conspicuous, although botli adopt the same styles of architecture ; from this rea- son it is difficult to describe — the nearest simile that strikes me at the moment being, the former repre- sents the strong man under the flush of a stimulant, the latter the same person under the effects of a powerful opiate. Citizens of the Dominion may feel indignant at A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 13 what I havo said ; my answer is, that I do not sco throiigli the eyes of an untravelled fellow-citizon, but through those of a cosmopolitan. Judging from tlio appearance of the principal streets at tlie fashionable hours of the afternoon, there was no scarcity of well-to-do, well-dressed, educated peojde ; hut if I am not mistaken society here is cut up into cliques, ever the bugbear of plea- sant rdujitons, but whore you have professionals and government emjtlot/i'sy a largely represented mer- cantile community unless possessed of unbounded means and lavish in their hospitality, are certain to be looked down upon by that high class of society who serve their country for nominal salaries, which, however, I have never known them neglect to draw — possibly to give away in charity. As I was going into a handsome shop I ran against a straight-haired, clean-shaved, smug, well-fed look- ing man, with a length of skirt to his coat almost rivalling an " Ulster ;" he wore a "wliite neck-tie, and I observed that the buttons on his outer garment were concentrated in a very close single file down the front. The fault was not mine, for I had my eyes straight to my front ; he, on the other hand, Avas a])proacliing the door, althongli his head was turned on one side to give a parting word of instruction to the shopman. Both beino; tolcrablv broad and stout we collided: 14 LONE LIFE: 1; not that any injury was done, for the prominent por- tions of both were soft — very soft, I should say. Of course I raised my hat and murmured a word of apology, expecting a return of the courtesy. How- ever, I was deceived in this nice-looking man — ap- pearances, we all know, are deceptive — for with rather a knock-me-down air he gruffly exclaimed, " Can't you look where you're going, sir t" If I were not a most peaceable person, I believe I should have answered him in his own coin or trod on his toes. Out of curiosity I asked from the shopman this polite gen- tleman's name and profession. I fear he must have made a mistake, or thought I alluded to some one else, for he said, " That is" — well it is better to leave out the name — " a high dignitary of the Church." We have had jovial Father Tom Maguire, of coursing cele- brity, also many a parson who could ride across country or whip a salmon river with all competitors, aye, and preach on Sunday a good orthodox sermon beside, but I never met a teacher of humility with less of the quality in his eye or bearing than this Dominion example of lowness of heart and humble- ness of spirit. In every fold it is said that a black sheep exists, and this was doubtless that one; but why in earth, when the matter is so easy, don't it get weeded out t A TEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 16 CHAPTER II. The Queen's Hotel, my temporary head-quarters, was clean and comfortable, without being extrava- gant. The landlord was a most pleasant, agreeable, well-educated person, while his sister, the house- keeper, was a pattern that any in lier walk of life would have done well to take for an example. In Toronto I remained several days, for here I intended laying in my principal supplies, both for consumption and trade with such Indians I might be thrown in contact. In selecting my stock I was materially assisted by a gentleman to whom I had brought a letter of in- troduction, for, having been long in the fur trade, he was thoroughly conversant with what were the re- quirements of life beyond civilisation. However, I must not neglect one purchase I have made, namely, a terrier. I was turning the comer 16 LONE LIFE: of You^ig street when a lad passed me witli a do^ for sale. I gave tlio animal a carefnl look over, and I was so pleased with it that I determined to bo- come a buyer. For ten dollars it became mine, and when I afterwards, at the hotel, had a more careful and thorough examination of my new accjuisition, I camo to the conclusion that I had obtained a trea- sure. The lad, who had come thus far to deliver over safely my property and to give me a receipt for the money ho received, in answer to my inquiry whe- ther the terrier would kill rats, responded, " Yes, and wood-chucks too, and they aro plaguey tough to handle." The last portion of his sentence he need not have added, for well I knew that it was but the gamest of dogs, especially of such diminutive size, that were able successfully to cope with this mar- mot. " But the name," continued I. '^ Only Skye, sir." " He isn't one of Captain M.'s breed ?" A race of the purest Skye terriers, imported originally by the old gentleman from his own estate in that island. " 'Deed he is ; although father has owned the stock for some time now, he got the breed first from the captain's." If my informant spoke the truth, I had really A YEAIl IX Tlin WILPEUNESS. 17 ^ot ti prize, and when I looked at my new ac<[iii- sition, there was not a single point that wonld denote liiin not to ))0 of the pnre strain. And well I knew them, for in tlio old eaptain's society many years i;one by, I had seen one of this very raee, in less than a quarter of an honr, althontrh ent and slashed across the legs and chest, draw three foxes from the samo earth. At length I was ready for the start — my haggago I liad i»acked up and forwarded to Oriilia by the Ontario, Simcoe, and Huron Kailroad, while I de- tennined to do the first thirty-five miles of my road on foot, for many years ago I had tramped it, and wished again to have a look at scenes familiar to my sight in the days of my youth. Of all long uninteresting roads, Young-street is possibly the most so, for front the time it leaves the shores of Lake Ontario, till it has advanced over twenty miles inland, it is w itliout a turn, the houses I edging it in the lower portion far from attractive, [with a want of trees most noticeable. Seventeen pnlles from Toronto, Richmond Hill is gained — a |)rosi)erous little place and a great improvement upon the part of the road traversed; but it is a long and steep climb to reach it. However, its position is ^vorthy of notice, for the ridge on the summit of VOL. I. la LOUE LIFE: ill >vliich it HtandH is a wntrrshcd, streams rlMin^on cither •ido of wliieh How in reverse direetions, the northern hrooks trnvfllin^ thousands of miles before they reach the hike, that the soutliern onesi ^ain in twenty. In cxphmation of tliis, a watercourse rising at Uich- inond Hill and flowing duo south, would reach Lake Ontario before it had travelled more than eighteen miles, while a similar stream rising at neighbouring springs, from the dij) of the land would have its current directed north ; in the course of time it would enter Holland River, from there into Lake Simcoe, hence through the narrows into Luke Couchachin — then by the Severn into Georgian Bay, a portion of Lake Huron, the waters from which flow through Lake St. Clair, Lake Erie, and the Niagara River, before entering Ontario. Thus we see that the rise or depression of a foot of ground may sever thou- sands of miles streams which had their origin within a few yards of each other. Do not matters often as trivial sever lives for ever ? At a roadside tavern at Richmond Hill, I dined at a famous ordinary ; the other guests were lusty, pros- perous-looking representatives of their class, owing either to Scotland or Ireland their nativity. It was soon apparent to me that I was regarded with inquisitive if not suspicious glances, and although i I'll A YEAR IN TlII^ WILDKRNESS, 10 ficvoral attempts were nimlo during the mcnl to draw mo into convorsntion, 1 courteously declined tlio honour. After dinner toddy or punch was ordered, the dif- ferent names being used according to the country that had ^iven tlie thirsty soul birth. Canadians T knew were accredited with beinrr :il)lo to take a fair ijuantity of ardent spirits, but these farmerH couM do more, and as their demands were gratified, politics were discussed with additional vehotnence. As I had plenty of time, I rested and enjoyed my pipe, yes, and toddy too, for I was much interestetl in the conversation. At length a shrewd-looking old Scot, looking keenly at me, and expressing himself in very measured terms, said : *' Weel, sir, you look a man o' education and a traveller, will you no agree with mo that Mr. Mac will make a better member than that ranting blethering chap Mr. O' ?" At tlio termination of this in([uiry several voices were raised together to dilate on the claims of the candidate of whom the O.' faction was in favour. But the old Scot again got the floor, and with the same ear- nestness of manner repeated the question previously asked — adding in parenthesis to the others : " We ken what we think, but we'd a' like to ken what the stranger thinks." So silence was established and all C2 20 LONE LIFE; looked forward as if anxious to hear \\\y scntiiiunits, l^o I found it iucuudxMit on nie to say sonietliinf^ — >vl\icii 1 did in wrv nearly these ^vor(ls : "Gentlemen, 1 know n(>tliin<; about the matter, so must deeline to e>.i)ress an ()j)inion one "svay or the other." " Weel, there's mair caution about you than folks wouUl \ (In» (li\<» ol !i wild ilmK or Idtni. wliilf op|>osi(o, livlK'Ms lookmjv Kmiiiii \v;i'< t'onMnitunns, iiinl llu> 1 \> o isl;mtls l\;iH \\;i\ M( ro'^4 IooukmI n|», ^MMHtl ill 111 WW np>'- \o nn'oj'ui^i' i\ii\ iin lioiiom- lio Iimm iiovor doiir l>ot\M\' ; \\o is r\i Ml is owe I li;iv(» rcsidotl in bofiMW Inil it has ohMuood hiinds. I jisk omsumIIv :\i\cv A tow ot ni\ old most intimali' iVionds. Soiiio havo d.isaj'poarod ; olhors rost lUhK >• tin* soiuIuh' sha- llows ot tho piiio-troos t hat surround t ho •.'■ravo\ ard. SulVioiont thou. 1 will roinaiii unknown. Al'tor sup- per — n nioal that takos phu'o in Ainorii-a al>out tho tinio niv old hrothor-ollii'ors are assonihlinii; in iho anto-ro(>ui tor moss — 1 go t\M'th on a tour of inspoo- tion. '* What to soo in a (^mailian country viliam'?" I hoar inquired. Woll, to smoke a pipe, yes, and got, the fresh air — 1 may as well eonfess further, to learn i if the house stood where in years gone by one of thcj A viiAii IN 'nil; \vim»i;iini';mh. HA III |i|'( niir III |||(> iiidkI IovmIiI*) tliiil r'lT it \VM'< iii\ lull' |o iii(M>l. Iiiil :ill JM tliiiiiiri'd ; oiil\ IIm' /M'omid on Nvlii' li it, sloiid r !i lied Mn|M«illiioiis, lint. .•nnoiiL'; J'll tli(; iillow on his iiiilMlxTs I did not. I'ccuirMisc (Mk- r;iiMili;ii' hicc, ;nid !i lilllc over twenty yc.'irs liiid doiio ;ill this. \\ li;il \v;is invown rclrosiiccf in tlnit, sjcirc (»(' llnic'? wind, liiid I srrn ? wlicrc liiid I Itccn f Nejirly ;dl over llic t'lirlli, Mild wiliirssiwj llie sti'iiM-^Jcs of iiMtion ;i<.!;;iiiisl!iMlion, t lie li(d(diin^ foi'tli of shot, Miid slioll, r!iniM!Li;(' iiiid dcMtli. And why slioiild otlicrs not, stray from lionic mikI (Viciids as well mm iriysclf"? A more mM^niliceiil, ni^lit if, could not, linve jjos- siblv hocii than it wa.s when I retii'ed to mv room. Feeliiii^ disincliiK'd for rest, [)o.s,sihly to revive; ine- 'ariiMinones o f tl ic k at her handsome, graceful figure. ^' And how did you meet her, and all that sort of tiling r Well, in this way. I was staying at this village ; for several days during my afternoon walk I met an erect, handsome, military-looking old gentleman. The cut of his clothes was certainly rather of an anti- quated date, and exhibited indications that they had endured a fearful amount of brushing, but being ever scrupulously clean, failed to impress you with shabbiness. With the courtesy of one of the old regime, the second time we were thrown in contact he bowed, the third time we met occasion was made to start a conversation. My old friend. Captain , had travelled a very great deal, seen much of life, was a keen observer, and a delightful conversationalist, and when he knew that I was the son of a military man, and one that had served with him in the Peninsula under the great Duke, we became so intimate that he invited me to visit him. A perfect childlike simplicity and a superabundance of the gentlest feelings in human nature were his characteristics ; still he had done everything, from 38 T.ONK T.IFli: : hav'mi; Ills miiu out, to makiiiui; his roii;iiiUMit tlirow away tliuir knapsacks, to lmkiIjIo them to char<^e Letter, when he had tiic hoiioiii' of lea(lin<^ his corps ill one of tlie most hrilliaiit affairs that took phico between tlie Ameriean tn)oj)S and our- selves, wlieii we advanced on Washini^tou ])revious to its capture. For wliich little escapade, viz., dis- cardinur the nieirs necessaries, launhinaly he used to tell how he was tried by court-martial, ac(putted, but informed not to do it aijjain. Ilalf-})ay was all the uieaus he possessed, but even on that moiety was considered by his primitive uei<^hbours "passing rich," as was the curate in Goldsmith's Deserted Village on a much smaller stipend. At length I i)ai(l my promised visit. I was fortu- nate, for I met the old gentleman engaged, spado in hand, among his flowers, to which he was remark- ably attached and unremitting in his attention. Ushcrino; me into his sittiuii; - room, from the abrujitness of our entrance we surprised his daughter sitting in the recess of a window that looked out over the lake, busily engaged in mending her father's socks. Many young ladies would be ashamed if detected by a stranger engaged in such occupation. But she had not a particle of false pride in her veins, but rose with all the grace of a duchess, and met me with that unaffectedness and sincerity of manner A YKATl IX TIIK Wir.Dr.KNKSS. 31) tliat ai once i)r('vonts a ifiicsl from Iiniii'liiinii; tlmt lie is ail iiiti'iidcr. From tliat day fortli my ronjunl for tlio old captain iTivw apace, Avliik; for tlio daui'litcr admiration clianmid into love, wliicli kept increasin;^ with the lapse of time as would veoetation in a perpi'tnal sprinii;, .and really how could it be othernise, for Miss was not only *i;racefnl, as 1 have said, but she was lovely. Her coin])lexion was simply brilliant, but there; was a transparency about it that whisjjered to me tlionn;lits of consiun})tion. She was even more beautiful than distln> " No, I will ; you steer ; I have twice the strength that you have, and you can handle the canoe better than me," I hurriedly said to the lad. VOL. I. E ' ( 50 LONE life: ' !i; So I got the axe and placed it handy beside me, and knitting my teeth, dipped the paddle deep, and we drove our light craft skimming over the lake. I did not much like my task. I would have given anything to have changed my weapon for a gun ; but show the white feather before that little grinning fiend behind me, who would not have halted for even thought, supposing the danger had been twice as great — no ! never ! But a few yards divided us now. I carefully laid my paddle ^n one side ; my hands were hot and trembling from the unusual exertion, so I reached both for an instant into the cool water and took the axe, having got my legs under me so as to be able to get on my feet in an instant. Bruin did not like us ; his lip curled, and his eye looked back towards us, but he did not deviate in his course. " Are you ready, boy?" " Am," grunted the young savage. " Then give way," I said ; and he did, for the canoe shot forward as a sleigh over the smoothest ice- track. One, two, three. I am within striking distance. Slowly I raise myself ; the heavy blade describes a circle over my right shoulder, and comes down with a swing that would have felled a bull, a crunch as of the pulverising of bones telling that my exertion has not been fruitless ; but the power with which I struck not timi our imi for the over an \ We wer "^ hold ad] floating ourselves cork floa Bruin wj or felt t made for most obst portunity However, the lad m. young Lk Next day ceding dea I doubt if pade to ob Joe, wh dicating hi claimed as A TEA.TI IN TUE WILDERNESS. 51 threw the canoe off her balance ; so to save an upset I dropped the axe overboard — yes, overboard. I had not time to do otherwise, for but a moment postponed our immersion : but it was only for a moment, for the bear, when it received the stroke, turned over and placed one of its paws upon the gunwale. We were unarmed, and therefore unable to cut his hold adrift, and in a moment our cockle-shell was floating bottom upmost, with the paddles, bear, and ourselves bobbing up and down around it like the cork floats of a net full of large fish. Fortunately, Bruin was satisfied with the mischief he had done, or felt too weak to attempt further hostilities, so made for shore, leaving us to hang to our craft, the most obstreperous of all its race when it gets an op- portunity of this kind to make itself disagreeable. However, after some exertion we got it righted, and the lad got inside while I held on by the stern, the young Indian soon after paddling into shoal water. Next day the bear was found in the last agonies pre- ceding death, and prime as both pelt and carcase were, I doubt if I should like to go through the same esca- pade to obtain their superior, let alone their equal. Joe, who listened attentively to all I said, only in- dicating his presence by a grunt of approval, ex- claimed as soon as I had finished : E 2 52 LONE LIFE : Jlll *' That all true ; that just so. I know who was with you that clay ; he often tell me all about it ; he old Snake's son. You remember old chief Snake — live in next big house to missionaries' in Kama ?" No, I could not remember my companion's name, and I told him so. "Well, that no matter. Old Snake son, I tell you. Old Snake still alive," then turning very serious in features and solemn in voice, ^' but Jim dead — dead now long time ; he all the same as brother to me, and best hunter we then have. Yes, he all the same as brother to me." " How did he die, Joe ?" *' Oh, ordinary Avay; nothing funny in him's death." (lie doubtless meant peculiar.) " llim coming home from fall hunt one stormy night ; wind blow very hard; so top of pine-tree snap right off and fall on him. Suppose you come to Rama, I show you Irim's squaw and sons." I should have taken Joe with me on my intended journey if he had been as formerly, but his love of whisky had shattered his constitution, and prematurely he had become an old man. He begged hard to go, but I told him firmly but not unkindly it could not be. With tears almost in his eyes, he kissed my hand at parting, exclaiming to himself, " That whisky kill At Co I sliould tlie Nort depart fc down lic] necessarii With f miserable- and it w in a heav supply the and very nesota, wl adhere to ] Many o had dealt, A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 58 me; you afraid I drink too much — that why you no take* me witli vou." 1 feel convinced — well, I would not take away the poor fellow's character without cause — that I saw him enter a grog-shop as the train rolled out of the station, in which he doubtlessly got roaring drunk in ten minutes, and did not leave till all his hard-earned money was spent. Alas, the poor Indian ! he is like a child — more helpless in fact — for he cannot control Ills longings if in his power to gratify them. At Collingwood I found, as I had been informed I should, several families of Indians belonging to the North, far up beyond JMuskoka Lake, ready to depart for their hunting-grounds. They had been down here to trade, and supply themselves with necessaries for carrying on the winter hunt. With few exceptions they were the poorest, most miserable-looking lot that I had ever previously seen, and it was quite evident that they had indulged in a heavy drinking bout, as long as the means to supply the needful lasted. I was quite discouraged and very nearly changing my destination for Min- nesota, when a circumstance arose to induce me to adhere to my original plan. Many of the storekeepers with whom the Indians had dealt, I asked for information regarding them, 54 LONE LIFE : whether they knew thorn, where they came from, and more im])ortant still, -whether they thought they were to be trusted. To all of these queries 1 got most unsatisfactory answers, for their conduct since they had come to the town had been one scene of drunken- ness; moreover, that they were all strangers, and had never been there before. The keeper of one store I liad visited several times had a remarkably kindly expression, with a soft laughing eye, and was less severe upon the unfortunate Ked-skins than any of his neighbours. In his shop I had on two occa- sions seen a sun-burnt, short hairy man, either lolling about or sitting upon a flour-barrel. His manner was evidently that of a person out at elbows, and very anxious to get something to do. I saw that he eyed me closelv, and believe he wished me to enter into conversation with him, which I did not, preferring the advances to come from him. At length one morning I entered tlie store, and while speaking to the host, the stranger came in, respectfully listened to our con- versation, and at its finish told me that he was both a trapper and lumberman, had followed either one or other, or both if circumstances permitted, and would be happy to join me if we could arrange terms. As a further inducement he told me he knew the locality I wished to go to, but that if I would deviate more to the left he could take me to most admirable A YEAR IN TUB WILDERNESS, 55 winter quarters — winter quarters situated in the very best moose, cariboo, and bear country in Canada. I listened quietly to all he had to say, and then asked him if he had a character, or could ho mention any one that could vouch for his good behaviour. No, he had not ; he might have had doubHess if he had ever thouleusnro to yarn after yarn, which I believeil true, becauso there was a probability about them, and a knowh'd^o of the persons anil places who fi(^ured in them, that it was impossible for an uneducated man to con- ceive. Still I made no allusion to his accompanyinr]; mc. At length, when a spirit of hon camaraderie ap- peared to be thoroughly established, he again broached the all-important subject, by saying: " Captain, I'm darned if 1 would not like to go with you ; name your own terms, and, if reasonable, I'll go with you." I had expected this turn to take place, so was not at fault but determined to make him an offer, be- lieving, as an additional inducement, that his yarns would help to kill time very pleasantly of a long, lone winter night. " I'll give you a first-class winter outfit, provide you with food the same as my own, find you in am- munition, traps, &c. You can keep the pelt of all the game you kill, you can trade on your own account as long as you treat the Indians fairly, and I will supply you with articles to do so to the amount 58 LONE LIFE: of thirty dollars store price; and if you beliavo fairly with me, I'll give you every assistance to get your goods out when I break up camp ; in return for this I am to bo boss (head of the party), you are to cut up the firewood, and do a fair share of work either in canoe paddling, camp kee))ing, shanty building, and ])aeking home game. But if you should break your contract, or 1 should desire to be rid of your society on account of bad behaviour, before three months are up, then you shall only retain your winter kit, and obtain from me such provisions and amnmnition as will suffice to bring you back to civilisation, retain- ing also the furs you have trapped in the interim." This, after some demur, was agreed to, so I had a fac-similo drawn out, attested by witnesses, and to which he attached the sign of a cross, for he could not write. Antoine Fortler, however, was his name. I having settled thus much, despatched him among the Indians, who left in a day or two, to learn parti- culars of their destination, and whether, if we joined them, for a liberal remuneration, they would pack my goods as far as our routes continued together. Alone I should have hesitated to trust myself among these miserable people, now that I had a white companion I felt that such a course, although pos- sibly still possessing risk, the chances were very much lessened. A YKAR IN THE WILDEllNEbS. 5U Ainon^ llio Indians I had noticed a bri^lit, plea- sant-faced, lialf-starvcd, almost entirely unclothed boy, about fourteen years of a^e. His miserable state I could n(>t hel|) re^rettin^, so I gave him a few coppers when cliancc threw him in my way. Amon<^ his people he appeared to be without friends, autl, conse(pU'ntly, the drudge of all. One bitter bleak morning 1 nu't him at the tavern door; he appeared to cower luuler the cold blast, and so forlorn and destitute did he look, that compassion for his situation took strong possession of me. So I asked the little one into the kitchen and gave tlio lad a regular blow out, very much to the disgust of the low dirty Irish Biddy who operated as cook, and whom, thank goodness, 1 had not seen before, or my appetite would have been much lessened. Talk of English schoolboys eating, the most voracious of them would not have been a patch u])on my j^^'otcge. And mind, his food was none of your cakes, buns, blanc-mangcs, and that kind of finikin stufF, but regular solid, hard substantial grub. In very truth, I stood and wondered where on earth such a skilla- garec could stow it all; however, I did not hurry him, but waited patiently till he said enough, and nearly choked over the effort. Well, I took quite a liking to that boy, not on ac- count of the powers of digestion he had exhibited, but M i.oNi: life: — nixl wlio would not that fi'lt as tlicy oupjlit to do?— on account of liis desolate wretched condition, and that at an a^e wlion cvorythin;^ should he the rcvcrso, 80 that in tlic trials of after life he nii TnE first four days of our journey was performed on foot. Besides the small packs Antoine, the boy, and myself carried, we had about two and a half hundredweight divided among the Indians, made up in loads of about fifty pounds each. These I took no more supervision of than to see that they left in the mornmg and were delivered up at night. The wea- ther was cool and bracing, and with the exception of the first two days, when the walking was wet and very boggy under foot, the ground was firm and free from other impediments than fallen timber, and where the forest was not dense, occasional clumps of brush. As far as my judgment went, I should say that a good seventy miles laid between us and Collingwood. So far I had done no hunting, for the very reason that I determined, until all were got into thorough working order, pleasure should be sacrificed to busi- 64 LONE LIFE : ness, antl any attempt on my part to set a different example would have been demoralising in the ex- treme, and likely to result in the subversion of disci- pline. I have forgotten to add that, before quitting civi- lisation, almost at the last house 'upon its outskirts, I purchased from a squatter, farmer, or "whatever you choose to call him, another dog, a thorough cur in shape, if my judgment be not erroneous. I was tempted to become the owner from the lowness of price asked and the good looks of the intelligent putative mother, who was unquestionably a veritable ho7id fide col ley. The sire I could learn nothing of — doubtless some stray Indian cur. Ne\'er having had a previous knowledge of such a cross, I hoped that the animal would turn out a perfect treasure. If his excellence ever equals the difficulty there was In catching him, and retaining when caught, never was better value received for a five dollar bill. For safe custody he was intrusted to the care of my Indian lad, who was much de- lighted with the responsibility of so valuable a charge. The first two days I noticed that they had occa- sional differences of opinion ; latterly dislike seems to have retired in favour of friendship, and if such a A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 65 happy state of affairs continues a day or two Ioniser, Poteen, for so I have named him on account of the whisky-loving physiognomy of his late owner, will be released from leading strings and permitted to i)ick his own way. Skye evinces an inveterate dislike to him, so do the three or four curs belonn-infr to the Indians ; doubtless before long his interest will tell him who should be propitiated, for there are two distinct cliques among the canines, the Scotch clement and the Indian, and although the former is very much in the minority numerically, if ever actual hostilities break out, I would lay my money upon the Gael. Anxiety for the first night or two after getting unil«r way, operated upon me much in the same manner as upon the sailor getting clear of land, so my sleep ;vas far from sound or refreshing ; not so now, for I have scarcely finished my doch-an-darras pipe when I am in the arms of Morpheus, little Skye cuddling up, head and tail fashion, on my warmest side, and so watchful is he that not a soul can ap- proach my dormitory without his giving alarm. Antoine he is not partial to — a bowing acquaintance he certainly has with him, but nothing more. The Indians he refuses to acknowledge at any price ; even as to his food, he expects to receive it from me ; ordi- VOL. I. F CG LONE LIFE: nary well-picked bones, such as generally fall to « (loff's lot, from other hands he would not dei^u to touch, unless Potoen or one of the Indian curs cast a longing eye upon it, then ideas of providing for the morrow seem to strike him, when gingerly picking up the despised morsel, on three legs, witli extra turn in his tail he will trot off pompously into the buslt and secrete it. Bless you, he's far too aristocratic to be selfish ; possibly, who knows, but that lie thinks that the scraps he treats thus, by the half-starved canaille that happen for the present time to be his fellow-travellers would be unappreciated. The fifth night we encamped upon a beautiful dry knoll covered with beech, maple, and birch, just sucli a rise of ground as in some future day will be selected for the site of a farm-house, from whence tlie country for miles around can be overlooked. As far as I can form an opinion without breaking the soil, the great difficulty the agriculturalist will have to contend with at first, on settling in this neighbourhood, will be the quantity of stone scattered over the surface. The soil itself appears remark iMy good, and especially suitable for the cultivation of potatoes, hops, beans, barley, or oats ; but I fear it is too northern a climate for wheat to become a stajilc crop. The first wolves that have yet been heard, sere- A YEATl IN THE WILDERNESS. 0)7 niided us to-ni<^]it ; tlicrc must liavc been lialf a dozen in tlio troupe. Their feelings were certiiiidy suffering from some grievous wrong, if the volume and mournfulness of their notes arc to be taken as an index. Of course, the Indian dogs could not re- sist the inducement of chimlnii in the chorus ; even Skve followed suit, a clear case of a prince fiddling among professionals ; however, I overlooked the mat- ter and did not censure him, as it is the first time that my dog has forgotten to be a gentleman. Turning out soon after daybreak, although the Avater was icy cold I could not resist the temptation of taking a bath ; however, a couple of minutes inider a shower of spray sufficed, the reaction making my skin the colour of a boiled lobster; but after I got thoroughly dried and dressed, I felt I had energy to undertake any mortal thing. An old Indian, while I underwent my ablutions, sat upon a bank wrapped in silent wonder; when finished, he rose silently, uttered a single word and walked away ; that word, when translated, meant lunatic. A wo- man that once professed to love me very much, used fre([uently to call me the same ; from her mouth I considered it a term of endearment. It is this meta- morphoslsing the use of words in our language that causes its difficulty of comprehension to foreigners. f2 C8 LONE LIFE : Our route to-day is north-east, so I tlctcrinine to leave the trail and proceed nortli for two or three 'hours, then work eastward by north. When all were started on the line of march I struck off into the forest, half a dozen ball, and a couple of dozen shot cartridges in my pockets, and Skye at my lieels. The little iron-grey beauty evidently had been in the society of a gun before, for lie hunted the cover •around me with all the energy and industry of a spaniel. Soon I found a family of ruffed grouse, out of which I killed a brace, so frequently after- wards repeating the performance that I soon liad as many as I felt disposed to carry. Deer tracks were ex- tremely numerous, but I had not seen their producers; this might have been caused by my devoting myself • entirely to the pursuit of the smaller game, or their 'being frightened by the occasional sharp bark of my do(f. However I was not destined lonji to be denied the honour, for under a beech-tree, evidently picking up mast, I perceived a doe. Substituting ball for shot, I tried to stalk her, but Skye became excited and would not keep to heel, so lost me the shot. A little longer acquaintance with my new companion, and I feel certain, from his intelligent countenance, that he will see the necessity of prompt and thorougli -attention to my wishes. A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 69 Two liours, possibly a little more, I liad travelled so far east by north, that I soon looked forward to • striking the trail of my party. When crossing a fallen tree, around which a tangle of briers had grown, a fawn of the past spring jumped up almost under my feet and bounded off. It was a nice clear casv shot, and when about thirty-five yards off I tumbled it literally in its own track. Taking the heart and hvcr, I pursued my way,, breaking every fifty yards a branch from a tree, or limb from bush, to mark my course ; in half an hour afterwards I struck the trail, where, leaving a bough, I hurried after the baggage party. About half-past three I overtook them preparing to camp for the night on the margin of one of tlie most charming little hikes I ever remember to have seen. Its bosom was as calm as glass, not a ripple to be seen unless when a loon or fish broke water. On its placid surface reposed three picturesque rocky islands covered densely v/ith coniferous and deciduous trees, birch preponderating among the latter, their feathery aerial limbs in many situations drooping down till they almost kissed the water. A couple of months ago, when the foliage was in all the gorgeous colouringof autumn, this sequestered spot must have looked like fairyland, for even under 70 LONE LIFE: present circumstances, with all tlio lari!;er linrclwoocl trees denuded of foliage, and a cold leaden sky over- licad, it looked enchanting. An old s(juaw and one of the younger Indians were sent back for the fawn ; they returned ahout half- past six, looking very nuuili knocked up by their additional exertion. Tn our camp there was feasting that night, and it was very late, I think i)ast mid- night, before the (jourmcts ceased from bani(rnant is to think so. An advantaf^e that eanoe travelling ])088ei8CS over walkiiii^, is that you can niutlle yourself up so as to escape a j^reat deal of the drift, and you are not con- stantly saluted with bouf^hs loaded with moisture, that ap])ear to Imagine their express duty to be to rc- chrision you, and this they do with no niggardly hand. IJut as before, at noon the sun exhibited his jolly roseate face, the fog momentarily after became thinner, and that that would not be absorbed politely floated ofT, doubtless with the hope of escaping de- struction, a hope not to be realised. Talk of laughing waters, lierc they were in perfec- tion ; and so infectious became their exam])le that both canoes and passengers followed the example as wo glided, bounded, staggered, and again rushed onwards. 7G LONE LIFE : It was a wild reckless race : the canoes, although handicapped with a freight, still striving whetlicr they could beat the rapids iu their velocity }>ast rocks, driftwood, and trees. The Indians looked ha})pyj the dogs pleased, and I felt an exuberance of s])irit, a freedom from restraint, a recklessness of danger that was truly delightful. At three hours by sun wo had gone a long way, and the river, which now had become exhausted, and therefore sluggish from its former exertions, in- creased much in breadth. Our paddles appearing to be li.'uidled with scarcely the former energy, I thought of calling a halt, when a turn of a tree-clad point of land revealed the broad expanded surface of a lake, a sea almost in size ; and scarcely had I made tliis discovery ere our prows were turned to shore, ihe cargoes were rapidly transferred to the beach, and ever}' one of the party became engaged in en- d'iavourinc; to unravel some most intricate knot his limbs had got twisted into while sitting in the bottom of the canoe. ToAvards ovcnJniT I took a stroll. Euffcd fjrouse appeared everywhere. So abundant were they, that if I was r.ot awr,re that they did not migrate, I should have thougiit they had assembled for that purpose. Yes, this country is Avell stocked with game, and that A YE.Vn IN THE WILDERNESS. 77 fellow knows it, and lins profited hy his knowlodgo — a bald-lieadcd oniric — or he would not be slttijig there so indolontlv with his cruel, relentless, vindic- tlve eyes fixed on me, although not more than a hun- dred yards sever us. I had a great mind to put a bullet in a barrel and tmnble him from his perch — vou sec two of a trade seldom am'ce — but didn't. I suppose the knowledge that he was first in posses- sion of this demesne, and tlius had a prior claim, prevented me. A bleak cold camp, ajid a sleepless night, did not make me feel either good-tempered or anxious for exertion ; but the Indians are np and doing, a heavy, dark, drop-curtain of a cloud rising in the nordi stimulating them to renewed vigour to reduce the dist incc betveen themselves and home. If I am any judge of the Wf^atlier — which I am not — it will snow before long. Striking across a wide bay, \^e soon caught a nice stiff breeze, such }is amateur sailors — such gentle- men, I mean, as the expression is I'ather ambiguous, who wear blue reefing-jackets and white flannel trou- sers, canvas shoes and loud-patterned shirts, stvaw hats with blue ribbon, on which are emblazoned femi- nine names in gold letters, -who prefer belts to braces, although half their time is occupied In tugging their 1. u. 78 LONE LIFE: netlicr apparel up to prevent it from falling down — yes, just siieli a breeze as tliey would desifrnate a i^^ale when they <^ot on shore and joined the society of cou- sins Lou and P'lorence, or chat Avitli those (;harniin<^ distlnf/iif; girls (^soUo voce let mc say their father was once a nnite, but has lately amassed a fortune as an undertaker). The young ladies simper and look in- credulous, for there has scarcely been a breath of "wind on shore ; however, they are reminded that the most severe gales are local ; the late experience of the gallant amateurs is undoubtedly an instance of it, and from that moment Jones and Smith arc heroes. I am afraid there is a tinge of satire in what I have just said ; if there is not, I intend it, for between ourselves — it need not go any further you know — for a Avhole week I had been paying most devoted attention to such a nice girl, told her all my best stories, discussed typhoons, cyclones, and hurri- canes, adventures among niggers, Malay pirates, and South Sea Islanders — in fact, taken her all over the world, in imagination of course, and introduced her to every rock, nook, or cranny that I had ever visited, and would you believe it — 1 am certain you will not unless I back it up with strong language — by jingo ! she cut mc for such an amateur sailor as I have so feebly almost With duty of rily, aiK auticlpa <ponctl and continued , '■^ O /,. M % / Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14S80 (716) 872-4503 ^ ^.^^ /WJ3 ^ /y,. ^^ C/j » s b8 LONE LIFE ; « I am more than an ordinarily good hand in the woods, still I am not an Indian, and previous ex- perience has taught me that it is better not to be too reliant on my power of finding my way, especially through dense swamp and heavily clad ridges of pine, where everything you see around you appears a perfect counterpart of what you may have passed hours before; so at least for the present I am re- solved not to go far from home without having the reliable company of my compass. I have discovered already that, however good an axe-man Antoine is, that he is but indifferently fond of hunting, for now we are at our destination, in the middle of our preserve, he neither expresses any desire to commence the campaign against the moose and cariboo, but has even ceased to expatiate on his former exploits in their pursuit. He does not even care about accompanying me, always having the excuse that his traps must be looked to, for that trapping "make almighty more dollars than burning powder." In this there is a certain amount of truth, at the same time hunting must be done to enable us to live to carry on trapping, and it is clearly evident that my attendant expects me to supply him with food while he collects a good pack of furs for the next season's market. A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 89 Although this is quite contrary to our arrange- ment, still I suppose it is better to submit to the im- position. As I never expectt:- to make money out of my trip, or even make it pay the light expenses which at most it can only incur, still, if I have a wish in the matter, and I have further the idea that such wish deserves humouring, I would rather for some time to come hunt in society than alone. Of course the Indian boy could be taken, and a clever, smart, obliging lad he is, but some person is required at the shanty when both the Frenchman and self are absent, for our evening meal has got to be prepared, and who knows some visitors might arrive when least expected, who finding no one to protect my property, consider themselves justified in appropriating to their own use what struck their fancy. I have known such things occur before, and experiences of the kind are those dearly learned lessons which ought not to be forgotten. My Indian neighbours I am not mnch afraid of ; they have not mixed enough with traders, or fre- quented the vicinity of settlements enough to have become sufficiently contaminated to be thieves, and if they did so far forget themselves, they reside so close to me that I should sooner or later discover their peccadillo, and either through the aid of a high 90 LONE LIFE: hand, or through the assistance of the chief, who really appears an aristocratic old fellow, be able to obtain redress. No, it is the white trapper, trader, lumberman, or voyageur, that is to be dreaded, for very many, I won't say all that adopt these lives, are the sweepings of society. And although I hope to see none of these worthies, still there is no telling what may cause them to leave their ordinary route, and by chance pass my residence, when they would not fail to land and gratify their curiosity with a " look at the outlandish home, that some half-cracked s(juatter or blarsted Johnny Bull had chosen." Well, " sufficient is the evil for the day thereof," and I have no idea, certainly no hope, to be honoured by a visit till after winter has passed by any one of my own colour. The weather one morninrr beinff admirable for creeping, id est, stalking cariboo, for the snow is soft and the timber wet, I started soon after break of day to see how much luck was in store for me. On my way through the large timber I saw a great many spruce grouse, which I desisted from shooting at from a desire not to alarm the neighbourhood, and so get a fair opportunity to note what stock of large game the locality supported. I also came across the track of a very large moose, who, judging from his stride, must A YEAR IN THE "WILDERNESS. 91 have been on urgent private affairs, so I left him to liis duty, only hoping that we should yet meet. I had gone nearly three miles before I came across cariboo tracks, the first I observed being rather stale, so I disregarded them, getting by degrees into more sparsely timbered land where more and fresher indica- tions were numerous. Pushing duo east for some minutes I came out on a barren, very park-like in scenery, and well scored over with prints, so much so that it was like what might have been expected in a densely populated deer park ; however, I could see no game. Knowing from past experience, if you once dis- turb cariboo, they go right off out of the neighbour- hood, not stopping till they have placed miles between themselves and the object of their dread, I retuined into the friendly shelter of the timber and determined to retain it till I saw my quarry. The reindeer is a large animal, still it is most difficult to see when in a state of repose, so much so that the uninitiated would scarcely believe that possibly the place on which his eyes were fixed, not a hundred and fifty yards off, and not superabundantly stocked with brush, sheltered four or five of these noble animals. Such was almost my case, for I had most carefully inspected a little copse of dwarf hemlock and hazel from the back of a log, and had all but come to the conclusion that it was tenantless, when a deer rose like something that 9S LONE LIFE : had been shoved up through the earth, exactly where I had gazed several minutes and perceived notliing. The trails around had made me cautious, they were so fresh and numerous, yet up to this moment I had sighted nothing, and almost commenced to think that the producers of them had been gifted with the power of turning invisible ; but such fancies were now dis])elled. Being desirous of making certain of my quarry, I changed my situation and advanced under shelter of the side of a largo decayed prostrate tree, to within seventy yards. I had an admirable broad- side shot ; the stricken beast staggered, spun round, and lurched forward on its head, four others, in the mean time, jumping up and making off, all of them nearer to me than the creature I had shot ; still I had not previously noticed them, in fact their sudden appearance on the scene startled me so much, for it was so thoroughly unexpected, apparently im- possible, that they had gone too far before I thought of giving one of them the second barrel. In an hour more I obtained another shot most un- expectedly. A cariboo I had not previously seen, jumped up within twenty yards of me, and I broke his hip before he had gone double that distance, and a smashed hind l((g, not like a fore one, puts a certain stopper on further progression. While examining this ^ beaut specie upo?i fur a J I re result? assiste the gar by one selectee On a the cam would the woe miles, a the lad hours, f wigging, that he Moreove travelling nightly v found he trusted \ landscape Next daughters A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 93 beauty, wliich liad much more wliite about it than tho species usually possess, I observed four cariboos out upoJi the barren, and apparently admirably situated fur a stalk, but having killed enough meat I desisted. I returned to the shanty perfectly satisfied with the results of my exploration, and feel certain that if assisted by two or three companions who would keep the game moving, half a dozen might easily be killed by one gun between mo: »iing and night from a well- selected stand. On arriving at home I despatched the Indian boy to the camp of my red neighbours to request that they would give me assistance to drag the game out of the woods. Although the distance was quite ten miles, and the ground covered with soft damp snow, the lad performed his errand and was back in eight hours, for which amount of expedition he got a good wigging, I never for a moment wishing or supposing that he would think of returning the same night. Moreover, I had my fears for a child of his age travelling over such a long solitary reach, for wolves nightly were heard around the shanty, and the species found here, the large grey wolf, is not always to be trusted when winter has placed her stamp on the landscape. Next morning the old chief, his squaw, two daughters, and a young hunter arrived ; for a portion 04 LONE LIFE: of tlie meat and a plug of tobacco tlicy agi'cod to pack botli the carcases liomo. Their liunters, they said, '^ liad very bad hunt this season, their ]>owder so very bad." This I couhl quite believe, for the trash the traders often foist off on these primitive people is truly disgraceful. For instance, I have known twenty-five pounds of gunpowder transformed into fifty by the addition to it of an equal quantity of charred wood ; the result is that the Indian must, literally speaking, almost be touching his game before he is certain of bringing it to bag. The poor old chief remarked to me so feel- ingly, that I could not help commiserating him, that " My people be very hungry before this winter over, I guess." Not if I can help it, I mentally resolved. As no snow had fallen my back track told them the way. Two trips they made that day, and in them backed home the two cariboos, therefore the party can scarcely have walked less than twenty-five miles, and the greater part of the journey bearing a heavy load, over ground slippery and wet, in every way unsuited for travelling. I think that there are few Englishmen could do the same ; yet these people are slight in their build, impressing one more with an appearance of agility than strength. It was quite evident to me that evening, as we sat A YEAH IN THE WILDERNESS. 95 over our aftcr-suppcr i)Ii)o, that Antoino was smitten with the charms of the youngest daughter, a stout, compact, good-natured, little round-faced girl of about sixteen ; for much of his conversation was addressed to her, and his eyes, when his tongue was silent, seemed to regard her as the centre of attraction. The old squaw did not apparently object, but rather the reverse, possibly being pleased with the idea of pos- sessing a white son-in-law. Thus it will be seen that match-making mothers are not confined to Belgravia, Brixton, and Dalston, but arc to be found in the wig- wams of the redoubted Kcd-man. When it was time to turn in, courtesy did not induce me to give up my bunk, so the chief and his family fell asleep on the green cariboo hides, tlieir blankets with some of mine forming their covering, the remainder of the party finding a sleeping place on the other end of the floor. So many human beings packed in so small a dormitory, I felt convinced was not conducive to health ; in fact, I thought that, if it long continued, we would become like a bait kettle overstocked with minnows ; but, under the circumstances, what could I do but submit, for it was out of the question to send them forth into the snow-clad woods after their exertions of the previous day. «l< 96 LONE LIFE : CHAPTER VII. In tlic morning after all had partaken of an ample breakfast, I discharged in full my liabilities, adding a pound of good gunpowder for the old man, a very seedy wide-awake for the old lady, a string of beads for each of the girls, and half a dozen fish-hooks for each of the others. All departed happy, and pro- mised soon to renew their visit. I wish very much to keep on good terms with these primitive people. Such a desire is not dictated solely from a want of selfishness, for they may be to me of the greatest use ; so if treating them fairly, and never swerving one iota from my promises, will make them friends, I have resolved that they shall be. Antoine, who has been tolerably successful with his traps heretofore, has lately had a run of bad luck. This he accounts for by a wolverine, or glutton, having discovered them, which follows him ; devours i*-. A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 97 all the baits, and fiprings his traps. Tho last part of the story I scarcely believe, although I liavo heard this animal accredited with such malpractices before. Thus he is perfectly disheartened at this contre- teinpSf and actually proposes changing our residence, a thing I will not for a moment listen to. Almost snivelling, certainly in such whining accents as nearly approach it, ho says : " No use for me to set any more traps then ; if I stop here my winter hunt spoiled, for that devil never leave here while I set a trap." " Why don't you trap him then ?'* " Oh I he know too much ; he know enough to keep an hotel." After such an assertion I concluded that the effort would be useless. A few days after he came in whining as usual, and imprecating his bad luck ; it was needless tiying to pacify him, to all I could say he had one retort : " I poor man, my winter hunt spoilt, what do you care?" &c. At length I got him to listen to me. I promised to go his round, with him in the morning, and we would devise some means of outwitting the ma- rauder. His countenance, however, clearly expressed VOL. I. H 98 LONE LIFE: that ho thought I must be a fool to think I could trap a wolverine. It yvM snowinf^ fiently in the morning when we started ; the lino of traps lay for some distance along the river, then ceased for a mile or two till we reached a miniature lake, on the margin of which he had three. True enough the baits were all gone, and several of the traps sprung ; so the snivel commenced to reappear on my conu'ade's countenance when the last was reached. ■ I was rather at my wit's end to devise a stra- tagem that promised success. At length a thought struck me, and I resolved to act upon it. "Pick up your traps, Antoine, and bring them along." Without a question he did so; following our previous course backwards we soon had them all gathered. ** Well, now, where do you get your bait from ? where is it, man ?" In a moment he produced it. " Now," said I, *' set your trap." A look certainly not denoting confidence in my skill as a trapper passed over his countenance ; but he did exactly what I told him, and possibly with more than usual care. " Well, now, take all the other traps, about a dozen in number, and place them at short distances around it." This he did also. " We'll just stop here till the snow covers them," A YEAR IN THE WILDEUKESS. n I contiiiuetl; for the snow was coining down fast by this tiino, and wo did so till Jiot a vostigo of one was to bo seen. Then wo started for homo, I wishing with all my heart that my device would turn out successful. In the morning — I doubting still hoping — we returned. The ground was tramped down in every direction^ while two of the traps were gone. An extraordinary track led towartls the woods ; this we followed, and soon overtook the object of our pursuit; which had a trap on a fore and another on a hind foot, a pair of hoots that did not add to his powers of locomotion. So vicious looked om* foe, and so determined to do mischief if within reach of his pursuers, that I gave liim the contents of a barrel at most destructive short range. He did not rob any more traps, I can vouch for. From that date I was a great hunter in Antoinc's estimation, if credence v/as to be placed in what he said. Over and over again ho narrated the whole affair to the Indians, a dozen times I am sure I listened to it ; but this I will say that, like old and' simple stories we knew in our childhood, it was revived with variations and did not diminish in lustre. Antoine's success was all he could desire after the- above episode, and for the present no further mentioa. was made by him of leaving the shanty. *< u2 100 LONK Lll-'K: Allliou^li tlio rivor is frozi'ii across, wo ftiv ni'vor Nliort of lisl) Nvlu*n tlu* Nvcatlicr is MuiliiMeiitlv mild to ponnit our t^oiii^ out to i-jipturo tlieiu. Our luodos of ]>ro('oo(Un^ U) ac('on»|»lisli our object aro so novel to the IOnpors, at the termination of each Ix.'inp; a liook hailed with a shiner; irn()thin<^else isol)tainahlc, a piece of rind of pork will answer, ^riicse droj)pers are lowered Into the current, and permitted even to drift under tlu^ ice. When a j)luck from a fish is ohservahle each jjcrson strikes, hut does not draw out the lish that has prohahly hecome attached, for its struggles will not intiuiidute its conn)anions from takino\)\f ! up abovo the surface of tlio water lu his imuK'cliato vicinity ; tlic new coiner eviilently liaviii^ (lesi<^ns on tlie pro- jierty of my ac<|uaintance, NVhethcr or not, his arrival was evidently far from a/^reeal>Ie, if 1 may jud;j;e from the nanner of iiis reception. Tiie stranger was much hi/f^er than tlie otlier, and I shouhl deem from his thirkcr coat, ohler, and of course more ex- j)erience(h Kvidently conscious of superior strength, lie avoided parley and ])roceeded at once to exercise a jiioli liaud, hy making a dash at the possessor of the branch. This assault, however, was dexterously avoided, the smaller musk-rat instantly divinix out of sight, the larger taking possession instantly of the coveted prize and using every exertion to direct it towards the side on which I was sittin^x. I thought how broken-hearted my poor little friend Avould be to lose his lawful property, and with what a long and disappointed face ho would confide his woes to the partner of his bosom, when he reai)pearcd again and took hold of the end of the limb, evidently using all his power to counteract the exertions of his antagonist. The struggle lasted but a few moments ; the larger animal let go his hold and made for the other, the isi; i.DNi; lifk: laMtT I'tM'nsin^ tin* (MhUi'nI, a^aiii tlivin^j; !<» rra|»|Ml)tain possos.sion of tlio covctiMl |»ri/,(». My tliis tinii* tlio misappropriator, witli liis spoil, hail ^ot within twi'ntv vaids ot' wluro tho rosidonco nl' Ins vii'tini was hoini; hnilt, tlio (U'sp«)iK«(l doso t<» him with a wati'ht'nl ovo on his lato tivasnro, his wife bnsily on«;a;;oil in hor anhitoctnral pnrsnits. I hoanl a low lon^ whistlo, tlu» fonjaio raisiMl Iut hoatl, lis- tened, looked towards the iKJni^h aiul nois<'lessIv jthded into the water; in a momi'nt or two afterwards she was hesiile her partner; then ensued a short eonfah, and both ilived, reappeariui^ immediately on the snrface on I'ithcr side of the thief. Without an instant's hesitation the intcrlo[)er was attacked , for several minutes a territle battle cnsueil, if just esti- mate eould be formed from the amount of stru^glin^ and splashing that took place, and that my friends were victorious was apparent, for I had the satis- faction of seeiniT them safely moor the contested branch among the other materials that were collected l'^ vveave into their future domicile. A YKAU IN Tin; WII.I»KIINKHH, 127 Hilt iii^tit was closing in, tlio liir^n ( 'unii(liriii owl wjiH InMifiti^ from liis s«»liliiry rrslint^ iilacc uimm;^ tli<* Imiii;^Iih of Hoiiii* Moinlti'i) lM*niio('k, a Niin* si^ii tiiiit roc(H'(I tlic iijrc.'itcr portion of tlic curious, Init none tlk! less melodious notes that, hreak flie stillness of llie sun'onn(lin<^ shadow land. Yes, it is to the ve[)tilia that all this liarniony of sound is due, rejoicing douhtless that a now life to th leni is horn, an( I that a period of captivity ;ind in- activity Is passed. The birds warhle forth their duleet notes in sprin<;, the children of man ci that season seem more joyous in tlieir out-door sports, and f^ivc vent more lre([uently to tiien* pleasure with up- raised meri'y laun;li ; as with tlie "winged beauties, as with the youth of our own race, so it is with the lower orders of tlie animal creation. But to revert to the choristers of the primeval forest of the lone western lands, chief among them, when water is in the vicinity, is the connnon American toad. Although far from attractive in appearance, he Is Tiot nearly so ugly as his English relative. Listen to his strange solemn voice ; it is not harsh or disagreeable, so far in fact from such in its thrilling cadence, that it cannot be imagined to proceed from so unattractive a shape, or so expressionless a visage. Inactive and slugijlsh both bv formation and incli- nation, scarcely changing position for hours, again and again he utters his vibratory notes throughout the livelong niglit. Next among the musicians is VOL. 1. K 130 LONE LIFE: tlie little livo-fro^, ;i tiny Jictivc fellow, not tliivc- ([uartcrs of an Inch long, -svlioso whistle is as joyous as that of the connnon house cricket, only much more voluminous. lie utters his ([nick cliirj), m^ver tirinir, never ceasing, while the sun's rays are not pouring down upon his perch. Another of this hand of choristers is the green- headed frog, the basso profundo of the woodland stream ; ills (lee[)-toned voice may be heard for half a mile of a still evening. As frogs go, l)e Is a pretty crea- ture, with yellow throat, and black-green barred back ; a very bully is he too among the smaller reptilia, who hush in grave respect when lie chooses to give utter- ance. But his life, with all his pomposity of manner, is not without its dangers, for the water adder and the black snake love to make him their prey, and when the hour of hot pursuit by his bloodthirsty foe comes, how rapidly does he change his pompous notes for the timorous squeak of the most insignificant of his ixenus. A close observer of nature can trace a likeness in every animal, however humble It may be in the scale, to some representative of the human family ; thus I have often thought this frog to re- semble a purse-proud, upstart citizen, probably a guardian of the poor, blatant, bullying, and pompous, while he possesses wealth ; sycophantic, grovelling, and pluckless in the days of adversity. A TEAK IN 'i'lIE WILDERNESS. 131 TIic snow-water by tins time luivliiji: l)ecii washed out of Jill the iieivith()iit I'xpivssin^ hinist'lt' mo, apiR'ared sci'[»ti(':il, {iiid ivmarkcd : " 'Phat iimst have heeii in sonic of your lorcigii jsliootiiiii; ti'ips." 1 aiiswi'ivd, " In Iivlaiid." '' J knew it," said he, continuing'; ^* you i'ellows \s'\u) ^o ahroad do most extraorilinary tliini;'s. Why, I never killed a (|uarter of that nundjer in tlie hest j)i'esei've(l covers in Kngliuid, and iiow coukl you make such a hau; wliere there are no i^anie hiws?" Of course, after an arirunient so dincliing, coining from a person wlio called the Emerald Island ahroad, and asserted it did not possess game hiws, 1 said nothing; but there was a titter on every listener's face, and the laugh might have been — I say might — liavo been aixainst me. As none of the snipe here show any indication of pairing, I am inclined to beheve that their great breeding-ground is further to the north; still of a calm still evening, after the sun has gone down, you can hear them giving utterance to that peculiar bleating call, that at home is generally accepted as an indication that they have mated. Thus snipe, like many other birds who are almost silent nearly all the year round, find that their voice possesses a new .« A YEAR IN TIIK WII-DmNLSS. 1 no or h)Uii uiiujkmI nolo in sihIii'', uliidi tliov 'lisron- tiiuic wlioii tired (tf, ns cliildrcn uoiild a toytliat tin;y Ij.'kI perfectly revelled over wlirn first tlicy l)t'eaino its owner. I*o.ssil»Iy it may he tliat the hirds that bleat want a mate, so ceases to kc aiwl nndi.s- turi)i'(l th(>u"^Iit. I ini_i;iit havt* hccn half an liour in fairyhiiii^ niooin, a lon^-le^i»ed niooin, and lie no see mo, so I eonie to fetch yon/' Calling I'oteen, and orderinn- Skye home, I fol- lowed my little ^uido ("oi- nearly a mile; the ^vind ■was in our favour so no detour was necessary. Alter a cautious stalk of a hundred yards we reached where the boy had heen <:5atlierin^ the tama- rack roots, which he pointed out with pantomimic actions, then indicided the position of the log. Lead- ing the way on hands and knees, I soon spied it, but no hear. Examininn; the m'ound, I found it had lately been scratched on the surface, where the dead piece of timber had laid, also the bark was pulled off the decayed wood in several places to enable master Bruin to catch with his prehensile lips the wood-lice and other insects that had obtained a sanctuary underneath. I never doubted that the lad had spoken the truth, but even if I had, the signs I saw before me were most conchisive evidence of his statement. The only thing I feared was that the young Indian in retiring to give me notice was too hurried, and thus had broken a dead limb and so had given warning of his presence to the game. A YEAR IN THE AVILDETIXKSS. m:j Tlio (lo^ expressed such eagerness to l)e let ^o, evif.lently scentiii;^ tlu; ^ame, tluit lit last I pennitted liim, lor 1 liacl no fear for his safety, lie heiiii^ none of your headstrong', reckless animals, hut one that knew most thoroughly how to take care of himself. Still I tliou^ht he would have |)lnek to siuip the hear's heels, and thus di-ive liiiii up a tree — a per- formance any Indiau cur will do with perfect im- punity ; in fact, I am certaiu little >Skye wouM, hut I feared his valour getting the hetter of his discretion, particularly if I should eonie iu the vicinity of the fjuarry before it treed. Waiting for some sound to guide our future move- ments, soon Poteen's voice rung clear and sharp through the woods ; again and again it eclioed over the forest with a vindictiveness I was far from pre- pared for. Sugar and I sprung over the fallen timber, rushed tlu'ough tlio close-knitted cedars, struggled through underbrush and Ijriers, still the further we went the more distant became the dog's voice. At length young lled-skin proposed our (Urect- ing our steps for the river, which was not distant over a quarter of a mile, as the chase appeared to be making in that direction, although further up stream. Acting on the impulse of the moment, although then tolerably out of wind, we briskly struggled through the brush till we reached its margin. The stream 144 LONE LIFE : having fallen considerably below liirpli-watcr line, without serious impediment "sve followed up its course, Poteen still giving vent to his feelings with the most angry barks. At length there was a partial silence, then a few angry half-smotliered notes, when just as I cleared by wading an immense granite boulder that barred my path, I saw the bear leaving the water on the reverse side, about a hundred and fifty yards above me, with the dog close in his rear. In a moment I pitched my gun to the shoulder; with a smoothbore it was but a very slim chance, still I pulled the trigger, giving quite six inches of elevation. At the first report Bruin threw his head up and shook it several times, the ball from the left barrel, although the line of fire was apparently correct, I should think, from it striking the water first, ricocheted over his back. At the first shot I was not impressed with the belief that I had hit my mark, still I believe I went so close as to render it rather unpleasant. As soon as both hound and c;ame were out of the water, the dog's voice rang forth as determinedly as ever, and I commenced to believe that Poteen was a very ill-used animal by my doubting his pluck, and that he would have the noble revenge of throwing my words in his maligner's teeth by ultimately tree- A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 145 11 IV. its ,vitli \\\m'd Bruin is a marauder, a flesh-eater by choice, sheep, hoii's, and even youn«jr horned cattle l)elni;' favourite articles of his diet; antl, althou<;li he will generally avoid human beings, still if his temper has been rulHed, or Ills larder at low ebb, there Is no saylnii;, but just ii possibility that he may force himself u[)on your ac- quaintance. At this season of the year a reason may be that they are prone to forget their good manners^ for they have only h\tely returned to society after a long and protracted fast. The settlers on the outskirts of civilisation know this to their cost, if they permit their calves and sheep to wander far from the homestead ; for if mooin r U2 LONE MFH: comes ncross ihvin ho will not loii^ li(.'>.ItiitL* to provide iiiinsc'ir willi ill! ample iiR'ul. I am Mot fond of llniUiii little jol)s, Imt unless I attend and assist in the canoe mendinl wns offoudod; l\»r Ium* Imst heaved, the hii'^i' ti'nd(»iis of hur iu'(.'k stood out swolU'ii in ivllct*, nliih' 'icr vye .still rt'taiiiL'il the li^lit of suppri'sscd aii^rv rniotioii. Making 8omu lunnhii^r;;iM«5, nieaniugiess excuse al)out Hot deHlrin^ to offend her — tliat she had en- tirely misunderstood me — 1 ordered Su^ar to shove the eanoe on shon.' and slepjied out upon the heaeli. The youn«;er <^irl willingly shook hands with me, the elder turning her side to my advances refused every overture I made for the re-estahlishmeiit of n<)()(l feeling'. At length the youn<;er S(juaw ])roduceil from ini- derneath lier hlanket a basket of swamp craid)erries, a most aceeplahle addition to our cuisine, saying at the same lime, " M\' present." Knowing well that the Indian never ij;ives without expectin*^ a return, 1 .'isked both to the shanty, where 1 had some trillini' Brunnnam'ni triid^ets laid in stock f' • such occasions. The donor of the n-ift followed ine, but ' le elder stood obsthiate and uni'elentln<^, not even deifrnin^ to turn her eyes in the direction Will h we went. After a triflini: search — for what man without a 15G LONE LIFE: l|; petticoat to look after liIs interests ever has his traps ill order ? — I turned out from the hottoin of my valise a couple of rosaries of bright beads, the one having a green, the other an opaque blue o'oss attaehed. These I handed to Antoine's flame, telling her at the same time which was for her half-sister ; and with these, supplemented by a small canister of coarse gunpowder as a present for her father, we took our way back to the landing-])lace. On arriving there the })etulant beauty had dift- appetired, the other girl all smiles and good nature, dashing off at a run into the woods after litr recusant companion. Before getting into the canoe, Sugar said, '- Lock there, Capen — there — on that sapling — don't you see ?" And at last I discovered what he alluded to ; a beautiful pair of moccasins, lined throughout with squirrel skin : left, as the boy said, doubtless repeat- ing the words of the donor, " for the Capen, as he have no squaw to work for him." This rencontre was certainly amusing, to say the least of it, and as I moralised while paddling up the stream on what the dark-skinned daughter of the forest would look like in crinoline, panier, and chignon, I came to the conclusion that the costume of Lady Godiva was far better suited to her graceful form. A YEAK IN THE WILDERNESS. 157 Indian women when old arc excessively nujly, their figures becoming bent and slouching, doubtless the result of the heavy loads they have to carry, for the brunt of transportation across portages, packing home game, and paddling the canoes falls upon tliem, and tlicse restless people are ever changing their quai'ters. But among the young girls, who do little or nothing till mated, one will occasionally see a figure the perfection of human form, and with hands and feet, which for size and symmetry would outrival those of our best bred votary of fashion. 158 LONE LIFE: CIIArTER XI. Two liours* fishing, commencing about a mile above the slianty, was rewarded with nearly two dozen trout, tlic largest being (juitc six pounds, ^fy s])ort was excellent, and when a fish rose he meant it, gulping the fly down with such vigour, thnt you could actually hear the process. One of my captives, a fine deep made fellow that Avould have turned the scales at four pounds, missed the fly in his first break, from the circumstance that I was in the act of lifting the line from the water preparatory to making a fresh cast when he rose. In my second effort, however, I hooked him, not in the mouth, but in the flank near the vent. Fortune, however, favoured me, for the water was comparatively still, the river here being expanded to nearly double its usual breadth. Of course I lost much time before my attendant got him in the net ; but that was not to be grumbled at, for if A vi:au in Tin; wildehness. 1 ;V.) tills little o])Iso(lo hud occumMl In ji rapid, T imist liiive siiiMslu'd sonic of my tacisic. l^'or soino tiino after octtini:^ fust to this fish, I \vu'> uiidci* the im- pression thut he Avus u Icviuthini, for all the struin I dure pnt on the rod und line would not ruise him iin inch fi'om the bottom where he kept eirelini^ round in till! most clockwork like mumier; l)nt it is the last straw thut hreaks the camel's buck, und the name golden-flunked bcuuty ultimutely found that to his cost. Several times while fishintf I obtained a good view of a large otter; he doubtless was well aware of my vicinity, for he confined his marauding exploits to the ])ool above, wdiere his exertions appeared to be indefa- tigable and most successful. This river really swarms with these destructive gentry, and the amount of havoc they commit amongst the fish must be enormous, for frequently I pick up trout of several pounds out of which only a couple of moutlifuls appear to have been taken, and that invariably from the same place, the thick of the back between the extremity of the skull and the first spine of the dorsal fin. The colour of the trout in this river is remarkably beautiful, quite equal to those I have captured in the State of Maine ; in form they are shorter and thicker in proportion to their length, and I am under the ill 160 LONE LIFE: i impression, stronger and more active in conse- quence. The various colourings, lifrhts an^l shadows up this river (which here flows by compass from nearly due south to north), are most beautiful when the sun gets towards tlie horizon, and the perfect stillness that reigns around fairly entitle it to the soubri(piet of the Lone Kiver. It will be many years before the steps of civilisation reach here, for the soil is generally too stony for the agriculturalist to select, while lands without this objection, further to the south, where winter of course is less severe, are still waiting for occupiers. Again, althouo-h the hillsides are clothed witli an abundance of noble timber, the lumberman will long give this neio;hbourhood a wide berth, for without the assistance of dams thev never could succeed in float- ing their logs down to the parent stream, which every stick of timber must reach ere it be convertible into money. But this immunity to the forest mo- narchs will not last for ever, for when the lordly pines have been cleared off from more accessible places, capital and labour will be brought into play, and ugly unsightly barriers will be erected, changing the rapid and eddying pool into sullen ponds and the summer haunt of the moose into a swamp. Then the saw-mill will follow to awake the echoes A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. IGl an with its monotonous and incessant rrroanin^ at the constant labour expected from it by its hard task- master of an owner ; and tlie now clear pellucid water will bear ujjon its fair bosom tons of sawdust, poi- soning with its resinous qualities every hole and reach of the river's course, till not a fish is left where thousands had previously existed. Go on ! go on I thou march of civilisation ; de- stroy all that is beautiful and pure in nature ; chango the untrodden and uncontaminated wilds into a second Black district if you will, where the sons of toil arc as unattractive as the country they labour and sweat in ; where human pig-styes are jumbled together in such numbers that the air stinks of them ; till the day come when the adage of *' dog eat dog" be verified, from the superabundance of the human population upon earth. On our course homewards numerous hooded mergansers (a very scarce bird in Europe) passed us, winging their way westward ; as many were alone, nesting has dc-abtless commenced in earnest. A beautiful bird in plumage, they are remarkably swift upon the wing, but totally unfit for food, except when killed in the flapper state, for the flesli after- wards becomes fishy and tough as fiddle-strings. Paddling a canoe has this advantage over rowing, VOL I. M 162 LONE LIFE: you sit facing tlic direction in which you proceed, enabling you to sec all that transpires in front. Thus Master Sugar, who was in the bow, called my atten- tion to a rock near which we had to pass; on its surface was a large otter, and at his feet a dead trout of several pounds weight. This poacher I have often seen before, or one of his relatives, for the stone on which he rests is not more than three hun- dred yards above the shanty, and frequently to enjoy an out-door pipe I come thus far. Bending forward cautiously, I soon disengage my gun from its cover- ing ; but the loutre, as the boy calls it, is too wide awake by half, for long before we come within shooting distance, he has glided noiselessly under the surface of the water. It is utterly useless to fire' long shots at these animals, for they are gifted with extraordinary vitality ; the trap therefore is the only way to destroy them, for they are so exceedingly wary that it is but by the merest accident you can ever come within short range. " Sugar, I'll give you half a cup of molasses if you ■catch that fellow," I said. " I try very hard ; suppose you lend me trap." This I promised to do, and I am not without hope that ere long I shall see my copper-coloured com- panion dressing the otter's hide, for now the canoe is A YEAH IN THE WILDERNESS. 163 you afloat tlicro is little difficulty in rcacliiiif;; this rock wliicli appears to bo his favourite resting-place. Antoinc's lonij absence bcmns to make me feel alarmed for liis safety; not that he is mueli of a com- panion, and far from loquacious, unless when his tonu!;uc is cansed to wag through tlie stimulating effects of a stron^r glass of "vvhisky, when ho becomes fi new man and will jabber with the volubility of a French Canadian, which is surely saying enough, of the Yellowstone and Yoescmmite Valley, of the Apache and the Blackfoot Indians, of the 8anta-Fe trail, and the Hudson Bay forts, but never a word about his future hopes and aspirations ; no, that sub- ject is sealed to him even when, as the Yankees say, he is as drunk as a biled owd. That he is ar- ranging, if still alive — and he is not a likely man to meet an accident — some grand movement on the chess-board of his future life, I am perfectly certain. Nevertheless, with all his faults I miss his weather- beaten face and nervous unsteady eye. As fishing will probably occupy my attention for some time to come, and as the prospects are that the take wdll be large, after a careful inspection of the neighbouring trees I discovered one wdiich with a little labour could be converted into an admirable smoke-house, for by this process of curing I hope to M 2 164 LONE LIFE: be al)lo to siivo a larfjo proportioii of the ti'oiit wliicli otlierwiso must cortaiiily Iktoiuo lost. Althou^^li I can liandli" an axo fairly for an ol'." Grave and earnest remained my audience. This was reassuring — a titter would have done for me. Then I went through, mind you, wit '.out discredit to myself, the most difficult of any one to please, all the «^hanning, attractive, impudent, yet nice ways of a petulant, saucy girl. I didn't do A YHAIi JN THE WILDEKNESS. 171 I it hy halves wlioii once 1 wiis startfJ, Ijiit iMilcrod into tho .s|)irit of tlio tliinL% At ()n(^ moment I ])rctt!n(lcd will) my left to take tlie ri^i;lit liand, tlion either affectedly drew It away, or smacked tiie ohjectionahle ])aw lor ils attem])ted presumption; tlien I asHumed a countenance as if some one was speaking to me, and shar[>ly turjied my ]>ack as if I desireproach of some invisible stranger. Would you believe it, although a knowledge of the claque has not yet reached this neigidjourhood, I received by look and gesture immense ap})robatio7i, so subsided into a seat and rested complacently upon my Avell-earned laurels. Fatty -pi umpy and Sugar ciiaffed Saucy im- mensely, yet the proud Indian girl took it all in good part, and joined in the merriment with as much gusto as the others. After a fair allowance of time for the effects of my i)revious eloquence to pass off, I again rose to my legs, when my audience became such attentive lis- teners, that their gravity was almost fatal to my 172 LONE LIFE : <;(HKuninlty. " Oli, wliat an cx.implel" I liear he who struts tlic iniinic staj^o oxchuni, if one of such shouKl ever read this hook ; hut I douht it niucli, for I never met II knii!;ht of the soek and huskiii eitlier iu the huntiu'i'-fieid, anuJUL"" tlie lieatlier, or iu thi' ij-ohlen stuhhles, so as a cdass T fear thev are not h)vers of ' %■' rural life, so scarcely likely to see this. ^Vel!, to the younger sister, lot)kinfT steadily iu the girl's face, I said, " Fatty-pluui})y means this ;" I hlew my cheeks out, stuck a representative of a ])illow inside my coat, and waddled uj) and down the limited space that was unoccupied. Again the audience were convulsed, and I, satisfied with my efforts, again took my seat, causing my countenance to assume more than tlio usual seve- rity of expression ; for far from it was my desire to allow my hearers to imagine that a great mind like mine could be in the slightest degree affected by such frivolities. However, I found it hard to keep my gravity, so I braced myself till I looked like adiunant, if such an expression is correct, for although I have heard the simile I do not remember ever to have seen the article. And Avhen the strain upon my muscles required relaxing, I lit a pipe ; for when expelling smoke from your mouth or nostrils any contortion of features is supposed to be necessary to attain the end desired. For some minutes complete silence reigned among m 4i A YEAR IN THE WIIJtHUNESS. 173 mv ;!;u('sts, wlicii tlio elder sister rose, m'kI ;i(Ivan('In design underneath all this impenetv.d)le to my opaque brain, so 1 declined their i^ffers with thanks, protesting that so serious a matter Avould require time for consideration, at the same time I thought it advisable to remind Fatty-plumpy that Antoine was her admirer, at which she snapped her fingers, and with more energy than grace exclaimed, *' That for Antoine." I think, gentle reader, you will pardon me if I confess that I began to imagine that I must be a deuced good-looking fellow, or the two belles of the neighbourhood would not be in love with me at the A YKAU IN Tirr: wildiirness. \7n samo time, juhI not only tluit, sluuv my carossps be- tvvcrii IIkmii ; l)iit fill this spcculalioii was nitlilcssly (lis])('ll('(l l)y Fatty-i)lnm[)y ('xclaimiiiLS lickiii'i; licr alrt'ady wcll-dauhcd lips : " WluMi you take time, Cajx'ii, and I yonr s([uaw, vou ixivc me molasses every day." "(lood-hye gii'ls, l>c virtuous and you will he happy," I ])athetleally loudly hut ralliei* hun-iedly exel.almed, at tlu^ sauK^ time shakinii; my liaiid as if wavinij; a fond adieu, ^vhile I muttered sof.to voce to Suii;ar : "Di]) your paddle deej) you yellow-skiiuicd youuf; scoundrel, and i^ct mc out of this iiei^hhourhood as soon as ])()ssihle." The hist I saw of the l)elles, they were young lady- like, one arm around the waist of the other, saunter- iu_i5 od' into the woods. Would such a mianncr have been assumed if cither had been jealous of the other? Impossible, I mentally ejaculated. Is there not food here for thought ? For among all the young ladies I Jiave had the fortune to be acquainted with, I cannot name one who would be so self-denying as to share her husband with another, au co)itraire resent his paying even a sister more than the most common- place courtesy. Is jealousy, then, the result of edu- cation ? The subject is worthy the consideration of the School Board. r 17G i,i>Ni; 1,1 I'M : Tli(' sliock ihnl inv lUM'vtiU'^ systoin li;i(» lUMcIi lor \\u\ vo\\svi\\w\\\\v I I't'lt I'MtluM* out of s«)rls, Mild willioiil llio iiriloiii' iiiid ru- tl)iisi;ism tu'i'ossurv to I'liiov ni\ lisliin:'- ; ullimiitclv I \os\ inv OMstiniX-Hiic, linullv liroko tlii> tip of mv rod, St) I dt'sistod tVoiM rnrlluM' cn'orls iiii;:ilnst, tlic trout, oonsldoriui;- I li;id *:!^o\\c throuiijli iMioui:;li lliat iliiy for OHO man. Tliat i^vtMiiu^ I liurrirdly ixio my meal aud lookrd forwanl to a louir aud sound uiujlit's ivst, hut rvorvtiiiutr d M \l n|>|>i'ariM diuornniuM to op])()so my \vor to repeat sueli ohje('tionahio conthiet, it refused t(> hurn the tohaeeo evenly, aud per- mitted tlie ash aud essential oil to pass into my nioii th hv \vliolesale. In distvust 1 i nnne( liatel V S(»- leeted another to fuliil its olhee, and the new hrooni happily swept elean : then Sni^ar would chatter, so I snubbed the hoy, and he in eonsetpience pouted, and I felt disgusteil with myself at my heartless con- duct. " T have it," thouirht I ; "I am aboi.t to have my ohl complaint, fever and an;ue." So I forthwith mixed a very strong and hot mun; of whisky-punch. I felt an improvement after it had been drunk, so I turned into mv crib without delav, and was soon in A YKAii IN 'riii: \vii-i)i;uNi;sH. 177 l\\r ImikI dl' (Ircnnis, |»l!iyiii;j; ili<* <'liMrac(('i' of |»;isli.'i ol :iii unliiiiilcil iiiiimImm' of t;iil s uitli .1 liMniii iii'<>iiii«l Jiir iIimI. riiniicil ;i piilrcl <^;ilM\y ol" lic;mty -ulicii lio\v-\v()\v \v«'iit Skjc, Mild I*ulc(ii juiiic(| ill willi ,'ill llic power liis linings would milord liiiii. It \V;is no use li'jin;^ to .silence liieni, e;illiii<.r IJieiii l»V roJMlioii iidod doi's or sliyiii''- wli;itever I could l;iv my li.'iiid upon would not icicify I lie wi'etclies, so most uiiwillinid\ I ''"I u|», my iiiov^niciil Ixiiii' lore- .stnlled hy Sui;'Mr, who was eiideavouriiil) positldii ai'.d tliu sljMilows worcj such tliat I could not shoot with |)rccisi()ii, and I drcadctloidy to ^vou^d the creature for the siiko of my doi;-^. One thini^ certain, he was an enormous fellow, and now that he was in my ])ower I was detcrniined to hare him. Thirteen or fourteen feet from the ground a branch ])rojected from the parent stem ; on reaching this the hear shifted Ins position, as if to take stuck of the enemy, and my little favourite let go his liold and (lrop[)e(l to the ground ap})arently none the worse for his exertions. Bruin evidently did not like our looks, so lie resolved to place more distance between himself and his enemies, so recommenced his ascent. What between tlie uncertainty of the light, the heavy shadows and the foliage overhead, move as I would, I could not ixet a clean shot. So 1 sent Suij;ar to the shanty for my ground rug, blanket, pipe and tobacco, for I determined to delay the battle till daylight, unless forced upon me earlier. In a quarter of an hour the boy was back, ten minutes more his skilful hands liad lit a fire, and we sit down to watch that the foe did not steal a march upon us. Several times I caught myself dozing, but when I pulled myself together I could see the young Indian's- n2 180 LONE LIFE: snaki-llkc ovcs finnlv fixcil upon n dark mass in the ovcrhcail folia^i?, wliilc the two dogs sat restlessly hy the lire, leaving every few niunients its gratefid liglit and lu'at, lo j)revent tlii' inis:ij>|)ro])riator of \\wav master's goods from escaping liis due reward. A fire in the dense forest nt midnight is a j)eeuliar and impressive scene ; one to ho remembered if onee witnessed, not to be imagined if never seen. '^Po do it justice l)y description is impossible, for as vai'ied as are tiic forms of the daneing blaze, as numerous are the wi'lrd shadows that flit around whenever the light becomes uncertain. Time, like many other tilings, Is obstinate, and lags on the way when supplicated to hasten its (lin-ht. On this occasion it behaved even worse than usual. At length I knew daybreak was near, for the owls commenced in loud voice to lament that their noc- turnal forays were near an end for that night. From far, far away, floated a weird-like yell, which even distance had not mellowed. I looked iiKpiir- ingly to Sugar for information. " That," said he, " is the lucifec" {miglici'^ bay lynx). I should not have required to ask the question, for many a tii .e it has made my heart's blood run cold by the suddenness with which this animal would give vent to its un- ^earthly voice. A yi:au in the wilderness. 1«1 " I sus[)ect niooiii llko very imu'li to come down. ScL', Capon, Iio ^'oin<^ to try ;" uiul sure cii()ii;;;li there was every iiiflieiitioM that sucli was the bear's in- tention. " I wish the l»rutc woiiKl remain where he Is lialt* nn hour h)n^er," 1 exehiimed. " So he will,'' said my companion, " If you not liko shoot yet." On which he ])nlle(l a hrand from the fire antl rattled it against the truidi of the tree, and sure enough muoln settled down in his t)riginal position. So iidierent is a knowledge of the hal)its of wild animals in the .Ueil-man, that even their children know intuitively what It Is necessary to do In their pursuit to obtain any desired n-sult. The white man who spends a life in the wilderness, may he able to kill more game tiian an Indian hunter, but it is because he is invariably better armed, ami always superior as a shot; but try which can, nndetected, approach closest to a cariboo or moose, or follow them when wounded throuiih the intricacies of a liendock or cedar swam[), and the snake-visioned aborigine will be so innneasurably su[)eri(n' as to make comparison absurd. Slowly at first, but witli increasing rapidity, the night gives way to day. Bruin's position and atti- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) // z 1.0 I.I 2.5 III IIIIM III 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" - ► Vi ivy, even oxcH'|)tinn; yt)iinii; l»i^. As the canoe iV(|nii'e(.l some eanlk'm^f 1 devoted the iit'ternoon to that purpose. My *^\u\ 1 did not hesitate to take with me, as Skve was mv coni- panion, and I felt douhtful whether the visitor of the morniiiii was not lurking; son)ewhere in the 2iei^hl)onrho()d. 1 had almost completed my lahour when my fa- vourite became uneasy, every few minutes advancing towards the bushes, barkini^ for an instant vehe- mently, and then returnlni^ to my sitle. IVetendinfr to continue intensely occui)ied, I kept my eyes fixed upon the suspicious locality, havinjj; shifted my posi- ticm so as to be able to lay my hands on my double- barrel at the shortest ])ossible notice. However, I could discern nothinij;, but this did not reassure me, for too well was I aware of the stealth v nature of the animal I supposed was concealed close by. I thought and thought, still I could devise no means that promised the desired object of making him show himself, so I resolved gun in hand to make a rush with the hope that the rapidity of my move- ment would take the Intruder by surprise, and thus give me an opportunity to get a siiot at him as he sneaked off. I waited for a few minutes ; Skye, who I'JO LONE MFE : liad :i(lvaiic('(l Hi'ain towards tlio susijicious lu-iMi- Ixmrlinod, still barking \\h\\ more liiirry and ;,nvator iiidicatioiis of fear than heretofore, rushed hurriiMJly back to my side. Now or never I mentally e.\(daimed, and dashed into the brush ; once in it tho under- growth was not so close, and from this circumstance I ]C;ot a ^ood view of the skulker. Han^^, bani^ went both barrels as (juick as tliou^lit, and the object of my aim lay strui,'iL;lin£^ in the (hist — Ijoth barrels had been tired at a ranjro of less than twenty-five vards, and the heavy shot they contained had done fearful execution. Tho position that the animal was in wlicii first covered, caused him to get the cliargo fore and aft, which resulted in the hair and hide beinjx much destroyed. This was one of the largest wolves I have ever seen, the true grey timber breed, and very closely allied to the north of Europe representative of the race. From the very worn and decayed state of liis teeth I should imagine he was quite ii veteran in years, and his plump well-fed carcase plainly said he had been living on the fat of the land. At this season of the year, from the quantity of birds and animals that are breeding, I expect they have little difficulty in obtaining food, but the destruction of life to satisfy the wants of an animal gifted with so insatiable an appetite must be enormous. Illli A Yi:An IN THE wilderness. I'Jl Mv success on this occnslon was most satlsfactorv, for after ^tHoiniiiir aware ot" this wolf's visit I never would have left liouu' without feelin^j inieasy that om.' of the »|of;s would he carried off in luv 5d)sencc, Sui^ar's ileli^ht knew no hounds, and never pre- viously did 1 see a carcase more rapidly skinned than this one under his skilful haiuls. A curious cir- cumstance and worthy of mention is that two por- cupine's rpiilis were discovered in the wolf, one l)uried over an inch in the muscles of the neck, the other nearlv as far, but runnimx lonmtudinallv in the cheek. After all my boy's exertions the hide was not worth the trouble bestowed upon it, for it was sadly deficient of hair and tremendously riddled with tho shot, so both it and the carcase were taken into the rapids and committed to their safe keeping*. The latitude up here is too high for many different families of snakes to be found ; but there is one species very abundant, whose thick form and slug- gish ai)pearancc indicate that at least he is well- fed. In more than colour and proportions it re- sembles the water viper; in fact if it was not that this reptile is not venomous, I should pronounce them to be the same. In length they are from four to five feet, of a dark chocolate colour, large in the head, and do not terminate in a fine-pointed tail. l\\ wet grass land on the margin of water they arc most ll>2 LONE LiFi;: nuinoroiis, in t'.u't, so niiicli .so tliat a ii may be scon in the course of an liour. I am .sure tlu' j)oor fro^s tliat live in this vicinity nuis-t pass an anxious time, fi»i* I suppose tliey are their prinei|»al food, at tho snmu time it appears impossible tliat this sln^rirish reptile can cnj)tnre one of them otherwise than hy surprise. Su<^ar, who is devoted to hait-lishin^', and looks with eyes of contempt on my Jirtilicial (lies, which he calls ''a moscpiito fixing," seldom ivturns after spendin<4 some hours at ins favourite amuse- ment without announcinore of the skin, and the sensation it imparts to the sufferer i.s such as might be imagined to result from being touched with the point of a red-hot needle. The two others, although far from unwilling to pay the wanderer their delicate attentions, ^are much easier avoided from their size. For the last few days I have lived in an atmo^ 02 i\ I' 196 LONE LIFE: sphere of smoke to endeavour to persuade the per- secutors to retire, and my skin in consequence feels Hke that of a mummy ; but all is of no avail, smudges of damp wood smouldering in-doors, out-doors, and in every available place, fail to have the desired effect. So after resisting for ever so long (much against my will, for the process is so dirty) I am com- pelled to smear my face, neck, and hands with oil of tar. For an hour or two after undergoing this process you have comparative rest, but the moment the perspiration commences to remove it, then the patient must undergo a fresh dressing with this filthy un- guent. Friends of mine have frequently, and with the greatest confidence, recommended camphor and penny-royal, as a recipe certain to protect the sports- man ; both I have given a fair trial, and can only say. Bosh ! One thing I have found thoroughly efficacious in the house to expel these minute pests, but it cannot be obtained except by those who have made a length- ened sojourn in the woods, viz., the giant fungus stripped from the tree stems, and dried in the sun till perfectly free from the smallest particle of damp ; this is a very long process, and no other mode of drying will secure the desired result. The fungus then having been properly cured, place a piece as A YEAR m THE WILDERNESS. 19 z lie per- e feels nudges rs, and desired (miicli n com- li oil of ig this lent the patient hy un- id with or and sports- ily say, :ious in cannot length- fungus ;he sun damp ; node of fungus iece as big as an apple on the floor in the middle of your apartment ; after having set it on fire, it will smoulder for hours, emitting rather a pungent smoke, un- pleasant possibly to human beings, but infinitely pre- ferable to the society of the insatiable bloodsuckers. When travelling in China, I was frequently an- noyed by mosquitoes, more especially if our resting- place was in the vicinity of a canal or paddy-fields ;. but when such was the case, the coolies would pur- chase from the nearest shop a substance that smoul- dered like a joss-stick, and which would not be lighted over a few minutes before every insect had fled. Nor are the attacks of these pests of the American woodlands confined to man ; my poor dogs suffered more, I believe, than myself. Scarcely a minute's rest did the unfortunate creatures obtain during day or night, so that from constant worry and want of sleep they became attenuated and low-spirited, while their coats stared and their eyes became bleared, in- dications that invariably precede hydrophobia. So much do the moose and cariboo endure at this season of the year from the same pests, that they spend the greater portiojti of the twenty-four hours in the water, with only the upper portion of the head above the surface. The bears are also not exempt f.l 198 LONE LIFE: from this persecution ; in fact, one day I heard one of these animals moaninl !il li ;•; ' l!: 202 LONE LIFE: eddying river iind our fragile craft danced along with the rushing current. As we doubled the poiiit that shut out tiie last view of our late home, wo bid it a loud but fond adieu, then dipping our paddles deep rushed into the rapids, and bounded on over the surging water that fretted itself to foam over the jagged rock obstructions that barred its course. Schudic liake was our destination. The Indian encampment on its margin was about ten miles from the shanty by land, twenty by water, but so great was the velocity of the current that the time ne- cessary to reach it by either route was about the same. There I wished to leave my canoe for safe keeping, as well as endeavour to obtain among these, my nearest neighbours, a guide for the un- known regions I was about to explore. When we had passed the familiar scenes that we encountered almost daily, and where the navigation was tho- roughly known, Sugar, whose duty it was to keep a sharp look-out for snags, rocks, and invisible dangers, relapsed into perfect silence — even our four- footed companions seemed oppressed with serious thoughts. With such a surrounding very out of place would have been trivial conversation, for on every side was room for wonder and admiration of the works of the Creator of the Universe. Above a clear blue A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 203 sky, biMiciith an emerald transparent water, on either hand rocks or gravelly bays, mar«^ined hy the finest timber that natnro "svith her bounteous hand could grow. The })ine, autocrat of the forest, shuts out the distance; the balsam and spruce, no less beautiful, but of snudler stature, ^ry to rival in height their giant brother, while the birch and majde with feathery branches dip with gentle touch the gliding water, and contrast with wonderful harmony their light-green foliage against the sombre colouring of the darker timber. The pines, the balsams, and the spruces have all the stern grandeur of the male, the birch and maple the soft attractive dalliance of the female. On our way we flush numerous wild-fowl, but my gun reposes in its cover, for I feel disinclined to mar the harmony that here exists, either by blood-shedding or disturbing the latent echoes. Not dreaming, for sharp eye and a quick hand were in constant requisition, but pondering, thinking, we shot round a point, leaving the rapid and entering a placid, quiet pool. Our sudden appearance was so un- expected that a bull moose who was floating with com- pletely submerged body, gazed at us with wondering eyes for several moments, ere it appeared to flash across his brain that the neighbourhood of the new comers was dangerous in the extreme to his safety. With a ? ... ill \^M 1 1 ^^^^^1 ' 1 i «l ' . 1 J i 1 ,1 204 LONE LIFE: lungo forward like a rearing horse ho struck bottom with his hind-feet. A repetition of the action took him into shallow water, when shaking the spray from his glossy dark hide he rapidly trotted off into the friendly shelter of the neighbouring wood. Ample time was afforded me to have killed this deer, but not being short of provisions I let him go, much to the chagrin of my red-skinned companion. In alluding to this animal, I say trotted off : other representatives of the genus would have galloped, or more correctly speaking, bounded away ; but in all my experience I have never seen the moose do so. Their gait is a trot, and a wonderfully swift one when pressed ; but I do not think, from physical formation, that they can gallop. Only one authority that I know of notices this peculiarity. Captain Hardy, of the Royal Artillery, and in a foreign periodical devoted to natural history, I see he is taken severely to task for the assertion— and most unjustly so I think. Without further hap or adventure we reached Schudic Lake. From the entrance of the river into it to the Indian encapment was only a couple of miles, so a strong and deep stroke with our paddles, in half an hour revealed the wigwams, which stood upon some high ground divested of trees, at the termina- A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 205 bottom tion of fi narrow bay. But for tluii linos of circHnf; smoke T should have thought the pliico deserted, for neither cauoo upon the beach, or other insi«rniu, showed signs of human occupation. My companion i)i'oposed a shot to warn them of our coming. Acquiescing in his suggestion, I raised the muzzle of my gun to the heavens and pulled the trigger, and scarcely had the report died away in the distance before a dozen persons of every age and sex, with twice the number of dogs, appeared almost as rapidly as Roderick Dhu's soldiers from their unpre- tending dwellings, and laughing, hooting, and scram- bling, rushed to the landing-place to greet the stran- gers, who by this time had got into sufficiently shallow water to render it necessary to disembark from the canoe, that her frail bottom might not suffer from coming in contact with the pebbly beach. Welcome, most welcome were wo made by these primitive people ; but I must record to their shame, that the Indian dogs were far from favourably impressed with the appear- ance of my quadrupeds, and that moreover they did not hesitate to show it. But the hands of their masters were no way backward in repressing such inhospitable conduct, sticks and stones were abundant and close ; in a moment females and males had each seized a weapon, and the numerous howls and limping • r 206 LONE LIFE: (lops tlisftppcaring over tlio brow, told that skill with such inissilcs wtis part of the education of the Indian. A short examination of the goodly assenihiy disclosed that the majority were women nnd children, tho young and mature men heing away hunting; but this circumstance did not appear in the least to prevent our becoming tho recipients of their hos- pitality. Foremost among those who presented themselvcR to shako hands with me, were Saucy and Fntty- plumpy. Never previously had I seen either look so well ; their dark skins glistened with tlie bloom of health, and their mischievous eyes twinkled with merriment as if they recalled the memory of some- thing unusually droll. Perhaps my countenance indi- cated the same, for every time our eyes met there was a speaking glance, a downward look, and a sub- dued titter. However, the two sisters did not con- sider that they were alone intended for ornament, for my baggage was divided between them, and each with a fair man's load on her back, walked by my side towards the wigwams with as much ease and grace as a Regent-street beauty would with nought but her parasol to encumber her. A point of etiquette now occurred which required finesse so as to hurt no one's feelings, viz., whose A YEAH IN THE WILDERNIOSS. 207 I with ndinn. closed , tho ; but (loinicilc should I occupy. As n whito huutcr, tho chiefs hy right, in whi( li cnsu I should 1»«' ctonmlly under the gazu of those ndseliievnus girls, and who ])ossihly might revert to their inatriinonhil stratagems, HO I proposed, as ncltlier the chief nor his sons were at home, to quarter myself on a (|uerulous, blear-eyed scxigcnarian, with a limp in one leg, and a most diabolical cast of countenance. Hut this would not be listened to ; in fact, I doubt much if tho old man had the power to receive mo after what was said, and I was pushed and hauled into the wigwam of tho parents of the two dark-skinned beauties ; tho wife, and I suppose tho mother of Fatty-] )lumpy, stating in high falsetto all tho time, " That as all their mans had g(me hunt, plenty room for me." I should not like to take away the good lady's churacter, and then I might be mistaken, for her English was far from perfect, and my knowledge of her tongue limited, but as they had no male guardian at home, inclination as well as right made her appropriate the first man that Providence threw in her way. However, the air was too warm and the flics too numerous to enjoy any comfort within their birch- bark residence, so I seized the first available oppor- tunity to escape into the fresh air, and when I imagined myself free from observation, picked up 208 n»Ni; i.iFK : inv fnm, wnd whistlin*^ for l\>liM«n mikI SKv*", sldK* ofl' into tlu' \v«n)(ls. Wlu'lluM' il ln' tliiit l!iis siliiatioii from pn>\imity lo llu» lakr is loss sliollorod tliiiii tlio vloinity of my own sliaiily, tlio cover was iinl iioai'ly so ilonsi\ ainl tlio (looiduous froos appear loss mimoi'ous. l*usluui; dirootly from llio wator, I kopl ascoiulin^ till 1 i^aiiUHl an olovatioii ovoi* tlio lako of y'w or sovoii liiiiulrotl foot. Tliis platoau was onliroly Ircc from lartro (iiiil)or, altlioiitili olotlioil with a oloso jasant hrcoze was pcivoptiblo, aiul tho miisaiioos of tlu» lowlands, the tlies and nuvs(|uitoos, wore absent. The viow from here was niai;nifieent. At my \\\'i ri'posed the hike ealiu as glass, while the shadows on its hosoni reflected the siirnnindlnir liioh ijjronnd and trees with as much tlistinctness as if thev were realitv. Nnnie- rous islands of irrei^nlar shapes ami various sizes, all covered with heavy coniferous timber, added much to the pieturesqueness of the scene, wliile tho hazy green distance of outline, occasionally broken by ii monarch of the forest more stalwart than his fellows, formed a most titting and charming picture. To the left could trace for many .1 mile the tortuous course of the river which we had descended in the morning, A VIlAll IM 'llin Wlf.OKUNFHM. 209 ^rciMi ns nil ciiiornM wlu-ni IIk? |hm»I.^ nrciirrcfl, l)nt wliitc as snow nloii'^ tlic^ siirfnco of IIkj tiirliult'iit rapiils. No iioi'il licrc for ;^H flnshetl a hrace of Oanudian or .sjirucc ^»arlri(I^T(•s, which witii their n.snal indiflerencc to the ])resence of man, lit on the hrancli of a patrlarcliai birch-tree within twenty 3'ards of my position. ln(jiusitivenes?<, as with women, seems to he theit bcsettinir wiN'ikness, and as often hrlnfjs the former to a prcmatnre death, as tlie latter into trouble. 'J'he win<^ of a wonderfully killing trout fly is made from tliis bird's rich ilark chestnut feathers, so 1 felt few qualms of conscience in killing botli. They were in most perfect feather, and would liavs done grace to an ornithologist's case of stuffed birdsi In appearance they very mucli resemble the red grouse of our Scotch hills, so much so in fact, that all but an expert would confuse the two together, for even the scarlet iris around the eye is not wanting. The extreme tameness of the spruce partridge, more properly spruce grouse, is easily accounted for* VOL. I. P 210 LONE LIFE: I .ii- Inliabitinrr as ilioy do tlioso iinincnso nortlioni forests, they seldom or never sec memlu'rs of tlie Inmian family, and thus arc ignorant of his bloodthirsty in- stincts. The fox, the mink, and the eM«:;UM)wl, they are faniilijir ^vith, and possess us mneh subtlety in avoiding their proximity as many birds that ww, sup- posed to be far more wary. I have often advoeated their introduetion into the North of Kngland and South of Seotland, but I fear my endeavours have not been erowned with sueeess, for I have never learned of atrial beinpi; made, still I stick to my idea, and believe the man of means wonld be well rewarded, even snpposing he spent hundreds of pounds to be successful in the pro- ject. Winding down the side of the slope sheltered from the northern breezes, I found wherever the ground was sufficiently open, the greatest abundance of wild strawberries, not large like those that are highly cidti- vated, or even of medium size, as such that have gone wild in an old bed from neglect, but the tiny little mountain berry so delicious in flavour. Their pro- fusion was something remarkable, for in the space of a couple of yards, diminutive as they were, sufficient might have been collected to have satisfied the ap- petite of a growing schoolboy, and that is not saying A YHAIt IN THE WILDKUNKSS. 211 forests, Iniinaii ■sty in- A^ they tlcty in IV, Rup- nto the b I f(*;ir ;ucci'ss, , still I means :^ spent le pro- id from ground f wild y culti- ^e gone y little 3ir pre- face of fficient the ap- saying a little. In the vicinity of Pembina I hud |>n'vi()usly seen strawherries growing in great hixuri.MKu?, but not nuin(!ri('ally to conij)are witb tlic pi'ofiision of tliose now aroniid me. Of eonrse, siicli an oppor- tunity was not to be let pass, so I biy down at length and fell till satiated. 1 was not alone in my feast, for nuuKM'ons peal)iddy- birds (wl lite-throated sparrow) and hermit tlirushes seemed to be as partial to this deh'cMtc.ly flavoured fruit as myself, and so careless did they Mjijiear to bo I of my presence that they darted down among the green vine-like leaves, or hovered over an intended alighting place, frecpiently within a few jjuccs of my couch. This was ratlier surprising, for the hermit thrush is of such a solitary nature, than even in glades and forests where he is known to be ;djundant it is no easy matter to get sight of tliis exquisite songster — exquisite I say, for there are few birds that possess such a charming flute-like note, which it often prolongs in the warm nights of early summer up to even the wee small hours. A month ago, those trees which cast their leaves in fall were as bare as telegraph, poles, now they are covered with as dense a foliage as the most luxuriant of exotics. The rapidity with which vegetable life advances after the snows have become melted, and the p2 212 LONE LIFE : i, > chill frosts of niglit are followed by days of licat, has often been commented upon, but those who have not seen it would never realise it from description. The increase is so rapid, that the difference that occurs in twenty-four hours is perfectly observable. In the short space of a single night, and in little more than a week, some species, particularly the sugar maple, from being absolutely naked will be clothed in a dense and lovely foliage. In my stroll I came across one of my special favourites, for I know few trees more picturesque, viz., a black-birch almost eighty feet in height, and clothed about its stem with the most ragged coating of slate-coloured moss and dis- hevelled bark, so as to impart the idea to the observer that its age must almost be coeval with that of the world. I never look at one of these hoary giants, but the figure of old Father Winter, or Santa Claus, as represented for the special edification of Christmas-keeping holiday-makers, is vividly re- called to my mind. So inflammable is this extraneous substance attached to it on all sides, that a spark will almost ignite it, wdien it will burn with a fierce- ness and rapidity truly alarming, forming a pillar of fire from ground to summit of impetuous, leaping flames, devouring with hungry fury all that will sup- port their existence. A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 213 !at, has [ive not . The curs in In the re than maple, [I in a I across w trees eighty ,'ith the ncl clis- bserver of the giants, Santa ition of lly re- raneous L spark I fierce- a pillai' leaping i^ill sup- Tliis tree, liowevcr, must not he confounded with the wliiti'-birch, no less graceful in its form and droopiug tendrils, or with the papcr-bircli, so much souglit after by the Indian, for from it not only arc tlieir canoes made, but table utensils and orna- ments. On returning towards the wigwams of my hosts, I saw two canoes racing up the bay, doubtless the hunters returning, who having noticed an unknown craft on the beach, are hurrying on, anxious to find what stranger the Manitoo has brought to their camp. The aged Indian is not a man to say much, still I doubt if his feelings of kindness and hospitality are less strong than those possessed by the empty-headed, but fulsome votary of fashion. I know if I had to choose whose word I should place the greatest faith in, ni}^ choice would not be flattering to those of my own colour. In civilised life I would have been expected to leave the wigwam and meet my future hosts on their way from the beach. In associating with Indians, any- thing like an attempt to curry favour with them is to be deprecated. Thus I sat down in the chiefs lodge, lit my pipe, and relapsed in a moody and thoughtful silence. Presently the owner entered, fixing his keen eyes upon me, grunted what was intended for a 214 LONE LIFS: * &■ ■welcome, s((uattL'cl upon his hams, and busied Ijinisell* filling his pipe. Then ensued a long silence. " The white num is sick?" inquired my host. *' No, hut ho is sad," I respouded, eontiuuing, " The brother of my tribe, that came to your woods with me, is lost or dead ; have your "^young men killed him?" Laying down his pipe, leaning towards me and steadfastly gazing in my face, with more of earnest- ness and less of vehemence in his manner, he said : " The children of my tribe kill now only cariboa and moose. Your brother is alive, but in a new hunting-ground away six days' journey, where the pale-face squaw dwells. I know no more." I did not suppose that Antoinc had been killed, but I thought it was necessary for our mutual safety to show an anxiety for the welfare of my com- panion, for they were doubtless aware that I had not communicated with or heard from him since his de- pai'turc now nearly six weeks ago. After a long pause in which I said nothing, and in which the eyes of the Red-man were firmly fixed 'i me, he said, "You are welcome." \en I handed him my pipe, which he took, re- t fi ' .g the compliment by giving me his. Each then smoked, the silence only being broken by the limself A YEAU IN THE WILDERNESS. 215 females enterinir with their hml's ^uii and traps, over the stowlii^^r away of wlilcli they s[)en(l an unneeessary lcn Stately us the monarch on his tlirono T sat, pa- titMitly waiting- fur tho chief to reprove such un- seemly conduct; but relief did not come — taciturn lie continued to remain. What conclusion hut one could I under such circumstances come to, that the poor old fellow was hen-pecked; hen-pecked a>; severely as any city man by aristocratic; wife, as any good-looking idle ne'er do anything for himself by the i)artner of his joys and sorrows, who has several thousands laid out at interest, and considerable ex- pectation loomin<^ in futurity. To escape civili- sation, nuitch-makin^ mothers, would-be married daughters, I liad betaken myself to a life of solitude, and after all to find that the female bosom, though clothed in deer-skin, was actuated by the same im- pulses as those habited in silks and laces — was it not disappointing — fearfully disappointing ? From the head of the family I could not get an- other word that night, no, not a syllable ; but what the chief wanted in powers of speech, was amply made up by his better-half — his superior half, 1 should have said. Not the least amusing, well, annoying portion of the matter was, that 1, the by far most interested person, was not permitted an opportunity to get in a word, either in the way of objection or dissent, edge- wise or otherwise ; evidently it was considered that I had been put up at auction, bid for, knocked down, 220 LONi: i.iFr: and fiold. Ono consolntion T nevorthcK'ss noted, there was a split in the camp, and disnnion ol'ton leads to dpstrnction, tliou^ht I, chncklin^', nnnd yon in- ternall}', for both the youn^ hidies had the argument to themselves, which was conducted in the aii<^riest tones, when the old stpiaw spoke, and after much earnestness, and a considerable amount of patience, pacified the belligerents. All this time tho old chief was dumb ; the only evidence that he evinced of life was the puff, puff, puff of his fondly-loved pipe. And your humble servant followed suit, rivalling in his elTbrts the grandeur of tho old Sachem. However, the aged Indian was not long left to himself, his wife, acting as spokesman for the daughters, harangued him, and he answered in the affirmative by a grunt. Then the old lady addressed her broken English to me. Courtesy forbade me not to listen ; the purport of what she said was that her two daughters desired to appropriate me ; that Saucy was without a rival in paddling a canoe or making camp ; and Fatty-plumpy for packing home game, or making moccasins, was beyond all compeers, and that they botli wished to become my squaws. At this ipeech, whicli I have much abbreviated, the old chief grunted a " humph '* of assent, and the young women in question looked V YHAR IN THE WILDEKNESS. 221 unutterable things at inc, and (lofiantly at eaoh othur. At lon«;tli I felt ready for sleep, so I rolled myself in my l>!aidr an hour or two. The heat felt oppressive, and the mos(piitoes hovered over me in clouds, when 1 awoke; but I was not half refreshed, so craved for more repose. Giving a stretch, I rolled over on the other side, hut. came iii contact with a recliniuf;; figure. Well, why not sleej) with my face turned one way as well as anothei*, thought I, sol tried to revert to my original position, hut my outstretched arms came in contact wit! another human form. Wy degrees I was fully awake. 1 remembered the country I was in, and how in it customs ])revaile(l widely different from those in the land of my birth ; and that the danger in those unknown forests, and among its inhabitants, were universally greater than could be encountered at home. So these noble confiding people, the chief and the sharer of his state, knowing this, had taken up their sleeping place on either side of me, the better to preserve your humble servant from all dangers while a guest in their humble dwelling. Very considerate, doubtless, I thought this, far more than your most devoted host would do for you 222 LONE LIFE: in England. (Oh how selfish society over there has become of late years ; a man's value now-a-days is reckoned by the Ic.igth of his purse. Any snob can marry a pretty woman if the balance at his banker's will furnish her with an indefinite amount of gewgaws, &r., floated through my brain in the course of the subsequent half -hour.) However, it was time again to go to sleep, and douotlcs^ I would have done so, but for those bloodthirsty pests, tlie mosquitoes, who kept singing and biting, biting and singing till I could stand it no longer. For a moment, nervously, I fumbled in my pockets for my match-box ; everything in rotation came to hand but what I wanted; at length I clasped the object of my search, and I looked forward with transport to blowing such a cloud as would make every one of these winged pests as sick as a bride of her marriage tour, such a one as prefers to be able to say that she spent her honeymoon abroad, so gets a taste of a thorough south-western gale crossing the Channel. By the sense of touch I loaded my pipe, then sat up and sharply di*ew the match over the rough edge of the box, there was a splutter, a blaze, and afterwards a doubtful moment whether the lucif er would burn up or not ; the hesitation decided the matter in my favour, and as I sucked into the bowl of my pipe the ruddy blaze I cast my eyes thoughtfully upon the recumbent A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 223 figures on either sick',for I had no desire to wake elderly- people, knowing how important it is that they should have an uninteiTupted night's rest. But is it possible, that on my left is no wrinkled face, that on the right no shrivelled-up arm. In my astonishment I nearly swallowed pipe, stem and all ; and might have shoved the match down my throat, for I extinguished it, and throwing myself back with a groan, stoically permit+o»^i the mosquitoes to drink, if they thought proper, my heart's blood. But all mv fortitude could not school me long to treat these winged pests with indifference, so in anguish of spirit I groaned, and restlessly and unwillingly kept changing ray position. At length a gentle voice asked me if I was ill. I answered not, when another repeated the same query. In an instant I pulled my blanket over my head and commenced to snore vociferously, as if I had never known any other state than somnolence. The result of this last stratagem was different from what I anticipated, for doubtless impressed with the belief that I wished to impart to them, simultaneously each of my flankers came closer to me ; the move might have been prompted by the philanthropic desire to leave less room for the mosquitoes to practice their leech-like proclivities upon me. I, however, in time slept, not soundly ; for I dreamed a dream, which, W' ' 11^ ^.!i 224 LONE LIFE : when I thought over in the morning, reminded me of what I had read of the temptations good St. Anthony had been submitted to. To say that I rose up refreshed would be stating an untruth ; my mind was distrait^ my body demo- ralised, but the old cure served me good purpose. Don't imagine I am going to sound the praises of brandy and soda-water, for I don't believe in them, and if I did, they were not obtainable here ; but a plunge into the clear pellucid lake. During a stroll, afterwards, I found I had an appetite, so returned to :lie wigwam, having tried very hard, and almost satisfactorily, to conclude that the experiences of last night never occurred, but were tlie result of a highly-wrought imagination caused by a disordered stomach. My reception on joining the breakfast was cordial in the extreme ; nothing transpired to mar the harmony of the en- tertainment, so the clouds of future disagreeables which I had fabricated, floated away like mist before the sun. Witli the old chief as companion, after having fed till nature demanded no more, we sauntered out to smoke our morning pipe. My dogs were as usual at my heels, for now that I was among strangers, they never permitted me to be out of their sight for a moment. Indians are seldom, almost never loquacious, A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 225 jd me (1 St. itating demo- 11" pose. ises of them, but a ad an I tried \e that d, but ination ion on treme ; he en- eeables before ing fed out to sual at s, they ; for a lacious. nnd this interview did not belie tlieir character, lossibly we had been torrcther a quarter of an hour, perliaps more, when a remarkably well-bred looking fox-hound came toward? us. From the way he carried his head, I knew that he cither was deaf, or suffered severely from canker in one of his ears. At this apparition I was surprised, immensely surprised, although I doubt if I could have been knocked down with a feather. Was such to be wondered at, for here was an animal that would have done credit, aye, possibly led the van in the best-bred pack in England? In height the hound was about twenty- six inches at the shoulder, and his deep chest and strong couplings spoke of unusual strength and power. When approaching us, my dogs met him half-way, and if 1 dare judge from his manner, he recalled from their appearance memories of a long past life. No growl was on his lip, or churlishness denoted by his open honest face as the strangers advanced and welcomed him. Again and again, as if uncertain that this interview were possible, he inspected Skye and Poteen, and as often would stretch himself, scratching up the grass with his hind legs, and place his deep-flewed muzzle in the air and cause the woods to echo with his deep mellow voice. VOL I. Q 22G LONE LIFE t 1 ,C ;S ! - 1 l!i ii ^^^H^H ' ^^^B 9 i^^^" |ii BHIHP R ! . ' _' -Vs *': If At lengtli tlic old hound came towards me. 1 held down my hand to caress him, but he withdrew his head and sniffed around it for some minutes ; then he raised himself on his hind limbs, placed his paws upon my shoulder, and looking heavenward, gave expression to his feelings by many a deep and long- drawn note of pleasure. *' That dog know you ?" said the old chief. " No, but he knows my race,'' responded I ; " but Avhere does he come from?" I inquired. And the old Indian told me ; it was a long story, but I will do my best to narrate it correctly. '* Years ago there came here a white man. lie was a great chief in his own country the voyageurs told me. With him -were two dogs, that is one ; for two years he lived among us, and each day he spent in fishing and hunting ; day after day he went to the woods or water, and never returned without game. At lengtli a bear killed one of his dogs and he was sad. Months afterwards passed on till summer came, when he bid us good-bye, and started across the lake, for he said he was going to the east, to the land of his fathers. In summer, when the waters are low, the most skilful Indian can with difficultv travel that route ; for the sharp jagged rocks are so close and near the surface that none but those who know the rapids A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 227 intimately can pass tlirour^li tlieni in safety. I feared for this wliitc man ; I even proposed to <:;() witli liini myself, or send one of tlic younf]^ men of tlic tribe, bnt his answer ever ^vas, * I <^o ah)nc.*' The day he dej)arted his canoe ^vas out of sit^ht l)efore noon, and witli its disappearance we ceased to tliink of him, not to forget him. Four days after his master liad left, this dog returned to our camp, not where it is now, but away across that bay, and tlie poor creature was half- starved from want of food, and almost devoured by the flies. A dog will not leave his master while he lives, therefore I saw evil in this, so that nif-ht determined to find out if I had just grounds for my forebodings. They were too true ; we found the canoe with a hole in its side and bottom upwards against the rocks, near at hand the dead nnd disfigured body of our late visitor. On that point (pointing northward), under a hemlock, where the cariboo pass every spring and fall, he is buried." A few days afterwards one of the tribe found his ffun. " I will fetch it for vou to look at ;" and for a few moments I was left alone ; no, not alone, for my four-footed companions were with me, and the old hound, who looked steadfastly in my face, and to every word of petting or commendation I uttered bow-wowed a deep and solemn response. q2 228 LONE LIFE: Tlic cluef was not loiifr alxsent ; on his return lie placed in my liand a modern double-gun, and although it showed evidence of wear and neglect, the excellence of its workmanship could not be disputed. I glanced along the rib that separated the barrels at the oreecli ; rust had as vet done little to obliterate the name of one of the most fashionable West-end makers of twenty-five years ago. But who \i '''r^ stranger? would it over be known? Whe'ii^x .u' not, of one thing I felt cer- tain, that lie P" a n>an of good birth and fair means, or how wouid he lin e possessed a pair of hounds that the Beaufort pack might have been proud of, a gun from the hands of a maker that Royalty woukl have patronised? Looking across intently at that distant point I could distinguish a hemlock, faintly it is true, still my eye is too conversant with the foliage of trees to make a mistake ; and beneath its sombre plumage rests one for whom many a fair acre and an ancestral hall possibly was intended as an heritage. Does no mother ^pine for the wanderer's return? or has watching and hope deferred laid her in an early grave? I look down and the old hound's eye catches mine, and .again he sounds a deep and sad note, truly a fitting requiem to my thoughts. Skye and Poteen, jealous A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 22ir mi lie by nature to an extreme, took no dislike to their fellow-countryman, and the old creature^ would not leave me for a moment ; his attachment was painful, for his blear eyes remained ever fixed on me, as if to lose me from his siglit was to lose all tliat bound him to life, could instinct have told him to the land' of his birth. Later on In the day I found the (diicfs nephew ; he was an active, clean-built youth of three or four-and- twenty. To him I stated in as concise a manner as' possible my future movements, and my desire for his companionship. Like all Indians, till there was a grand pow-wow over tlie subject, he would promise nothing, so another day was lost. On the morrow, however, I became impatient, and vowed I should go with Sugar as my sole companion, if he had not made up his mind by sunrise next morning. That night his services were tendered and ; cepted; and 1 was more than satisfied, for I believed I had obtained a guide in whom I could repose every confidence^ and who would stand to me through every dangei* as long as he possessed life. The ways of the Chinese are pronounced to be strange by a popular modern writer; the same con- clusion I have long come to about the Indians, so commenced to believe that the livelv interest taken 230 LONE LIFE: in me by the (liiughtcrs of tlie liejuls of the cstablisli- ment was only an indication of the value the chief placed upon the friendsliip of the Avhite stranger, and their choice of restin<^-place ininicdiatcly in my vicinity on the last niglit, instead of rc])osin^ as far as possible from who niiike, we thmlded a rocky headland, nnd disomharkod at the niontliof a clear pehhly-hottonuMl stream which entered the lake in a <^dorious r:i|iid. Tinu^ was pre- cious, ns we were anxions to tramp ten miles before dark, or nothing would have jdensed mo better than to have tried how the thousands of trout rising on every side would take ihe artificial fly. Secreting our canoe i!i a dark thicket of dwarf cedar, shouldering our respective packs and startuig in Indian file over an undefined trail, took few more minutes than re([uired to narrate it, and before wo had gone over a quarter of a mile, we had entered as dark and gloomy a piece of woodland I ever re- member to have traversed. such a I, 'Pi 236 LONE LIFE : '°^ il CHAPTER XVI. My new attendant I called Cariboo (not because that was his name, but had some resemblance to it), for the Indian languages have a peculiar guttural in- tonation in nearly every syllable, that even if you remember a word it is next to impossible to pronounce it correctly. Our line of march was in the following order. Cariboo in front, succeeded by Sugar, myself bring- ing up the rear. The heaviest load was carried by the leader. A bout fifty pounds it must have weighed, not including my spare gun and some loose ammuni- tion. My own pack was about thirty-five pounds, while Sugar's was somewhat less. From the spongy nature of the soil our progress at first was very slow, not even a mile an hour, but as we commenced to ascend to more elevated ground, ; because ce to it), ;tural in- 1 if you ronounce [cr order, ilf bring- arried by weighed, ammuni- 5 pounds. : progress hour, but id ground, A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 237 the trees and brush becoming less dense and the footing better, the pace considerably increased. I can carry a gun from night till morning and feel very trifling fatigue result ; but the moment I mount a pack, all energy and strength seem to desert me. I believe most thoroughly that Cariboo would have no more difficulty in carrying a hundred-weight than I wouUl my present load. The Indians are really extraordinary fellows at such a task, and the rapidity that they get over the ground ■when performing it, always providing the walking is good, cannot fail to evoke the admiration of all observers. From cedar and hemlock swamp we got into forests of deciduous timber, here and there mixed with pine ; hare-runs were numerous in every direction, and the dogs kept incessantly flushing spruce-grouse. If it had not been for the flies, which were very trouble- some, and the severe tax upon our strength imposed oy our loads, this walk would have been most enjoyable after we left the lowlands ; but long before I reached our halting-place I felt thoroughly knocked up, pride, and the injury that might ensue from setting so bad an example, alone preventing me from giving in. At length — and I don't think I ever uttered " thank God" with more fervency for anything — we came to a small opening, with numerous lodge-poles stand- lit:: 238 LONE LIFE ing in it. Here Cariboo stopped, and without the slightest evidence of impatience or desire for release, quietly deposited his load. I fear I did not follow the example set me with the same patience and method ; but, oh ! thanks for the relief I got when released from its pressure. A prettier spot for a hunter's camp would be difficult to find. From a brook about twenty yards wide, bound- ing over a rock and gravel bottom, rose an abrupt slope, the summit of which was flat and covered with the closest carpeting of moss and grass. In front, and on either flank, stretched a fine forest of deci- duous and coniferous timber now in all the glory of summer foliage. My companions, after an absence of a few minutes, returned with loads of birch-bark, so blackened with smoke that they had evidently done duty frequently before, and with them soon constructed a capital wigwam. The frying-pan was shortly after brought into play, so that ere darkness set in, there was every prospect of passing a most comfortable night. The morning broke bright and clear, not a cloud upon the sky, not a fleece of mist upon the earth, and far-off ridges, with their fringe of glorious pines, stood forth in clearness of outline, so that the stranger only accustomed to other climes, would have A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 231> it the slease, follow 13 and , when ifficult bound- abrupt id with front, f deci- lorv of linuteSy d with [uently capital Drought re was light, cloud earth, s pines, at the Id have imagined them half the distance from us that they were. And the perfect silence that reigned around was not even broken by the sough of the wind. " Beautiful ! charming ! lovely !" I exclaimed. Confound those flies though ; in my absence of mind the pests had taken advantage of me, and ruth- lessly awoke me from my reverie. The heavy tramp through the swamp, and the climb up the steep ascent yesterday, had made me more than desirous for a dip in the murmuring brook at our feet ; but how to accomplish it I knew not, for to defend my face and hands, let alone my whole body, from mosquitoes and black-flies, was a task I was certain most imperfectly to perform ; but I felt dirty, clammy, and craved for the invigorating^ pleasure of lolling at length in one of the shallow rapids. The more I considered the risk, the less could I restrain my hankering, so I resolved to chance it. To undress and tumble into the water was not difficult, sed revocare gracilis, that was the hitch, for wet or only partially diy drawers, or even trousers, are apt to have a will of their own and resist being rapidly jumped into. Therefore I summoned Sugar and directed him to cut a cedar branch with which to thrash the scoundrels off while I got into the first coating of my apparel. 240 LONE LIFE ill " Arc you ready, boy ?" I exclaimed, when I saw him standing on the bank with the bough in his hand. ** Yes, Capen," lie exclaimed, and I made one rush for him. Vigorously he applied the whisk ; with celerity I struggled to get into my unmentionables, and as ever found the old adage verified, " the greater haste, the worse speed," when the lad ceased suddenly in his efforts, for the little vixen Skye, supposing no doubt he was beating me, seized him by the hand. In an instant I turned round ; the dog was about to renew the contest with total disregard for my voice, so I made a rush at him, and ludicrous to listen to, very painful to go through, I got a fearful cropper, for know, oh reader, that I had only succeeded in getting one leg home in my lower garment. To pick myself up, rush to my clothes and get into them, was only the work of a few minutes ; but I deserved to be pitied, a hundred black-flies, and as many more mosquitoes, were already devouring me with all the assiduity of creatures who never before had known what it was to have a good square meal. Fortunately, the lad was not much injured by the dog's teeth ; still prevention is better than cure, so I made him suck the wound till I could obtain my stick of caustic (a thing that no one should knock A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 241 [ saw hand. Q one rity I s ever te, the in his doubt In an renew 3, so I D, very er, for getting myself as only i pitied, quitoes, iuity of t was to 1 by the ire, so I ain my 1 knock about the bush without), when I cauterised the wound^ and further explained so satisfactorily the cause of the dog's assault, that both the biter and the bitten- were in ten minutes as good friends as ever. Our tramp next day was very pleasant, rolling high grounds covered with birch being the prepon- derating feature. By noon we had made such goodt progress that we considered we had earned a halt of a couple of hours. While taking a stroll around to look for spruce-grouse, I came across a noble speci- men of the great horned-owl. This bird must not be confused with the eagle, Canadian, or horned-owl, for it is a much larger, more powerful, and a far handsomer plumaged bird ; in fact it is to American Strigidce what the eagle is to Falconidiw, It also does not appear to suffer from the effects of daylight, fo? when flushed it took wing with as much confidence as any diurnal bird, alighting afterwards upon a distant tree without the slightest awkwardness. To find them among hardwood timber during the day, I believe to be rare ; for heretofore I have only seen them in the densest cover of spruce and hemlock ; but on mentioning the subject to Cariboo, he in- formed me that in these sequestered districts the birch openings appeared to be their favourite resort. Before starting Sugar joined us with what the VOL. I. R 542 LONE LIFE: lit Americans would call '' a fine mess of trout." He had captured them all with a piece of red cloth tied over the shank of his hook, his rod and tackle being a sajiling and a piece of cord. I do not think I ever saw fish with more resplendent colours, their backs being of the deepest marbled green, flanks like bur- nished copper, gradually running into straw-colour along the stomach, while their sides were covered with the most brilliant of vermilion and ochre spots. By a couple of hours before sunset I should deem that we had made near upon twenty miles, so a halt was called in order that due time could be allowed for getting the camp in order before night set in. During the latter portion of the day cariboo tracks existed in every direction, but not one was to be seen. My elder associate noticed me observing them, and said : " By-and-bye, two three day, you find plenty." Our encampment this evening was no less to be admired than that of last night, for behind us rose some rather elevated and precipitous ridges clothed to their summit with magnificent pines, while beneath lay a lake, not over a mile in length, with a solitary wooded island in its centre. In Scotland it would . have been called a tarn ; with this word I somehow A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 243 5? associate supernatural beings, and few places I have ever seen were more likely to conjure up ideas in the mind of the believer in the mystic world than this lonely sheet of water. Little of the sun's rays ever glinted off its bosom, for the land rose high around its placid surface, and the giant evergreens towered their heads towards heaven from the most elevated crests. An hour after the sun had disappeared a thread-sized crescent moon showed itself in the clear firmament above the feathery tree tops, and as the mosquitoes were less abundant, probably from the elevation of our posi- tion, I took my evening pipe out-doors. Oh, what a wonderful stillness reigned around; even the toad and green-headed frog had grown ashamed of dis- turbing the solitude, and the Canadian owl had de- sisted from uttering its maniac laugh. Home and friends, companions in arms, some of whom had long gone to their resting-place, arose in vision before me. Crimean life, Indian plains, and Chinese joss-houses, passed before the retina of my brain, as if all composed one gigantic panorama. Then London with its innumerable gaslights, its busy thoroughfares, and brilliantly lit places of amusement, occupied my thoughts. IMy pipe had long gone out ; feeling chilly from the night air, 1 r2 244 LONE LIFE: ■it Ifi I; II was about to make a move for my rug and camp-fire^ when a yell as sudden as it was diabolical, rose, was re-echoed, and died away. My blood for a moment ran chill ; but before I had further time for action, the same notes arose from another point ; and my dogs, who were crouching at my feet, rose as if by mutual arrangement, so simultaneous was their action, and elevating their heads, howled most dis- mally. Well I knew what produced such doleful notes, still never do I hear them without a shudder. The strong-minded reader will say how childish ; if he has experienced this wild yell in a suitable situa- tion, I would submit to his opinion without cavil ; but as I deem such to be improbable, I confess my weakness, for after all it was only the voice of the lucifee or bay lynx. For three days we passed onwards, our path where possible being by compass due north, and one day was but a resume of the other; our tramp from breaking up camp in the morning to pitching at night, seldom exceeding twelve or thirteen miles. As Cariboo asserted, we saw his namesakes on the third afternoon ; there were more than a dozen to- gether, all more or less immersed in water on the margin of a flat-shored lake. I did not see them till pointed out, and as fresh A YEAH IN THE WILDEllNESS. 245 np-firc, se, was loment action, ind my i if by their )st dis- doleful ludder. isli; if B situii- cavil ; 2SS my of the where le day from ; night, on the ;en to- on the 5 fresh meat was desirable, after tying up the dogs with in- struction to release them if I waved [my gun over my liead, I resolved to make a stalk. At starting I thought my undertaking easy enough, but soon found I had calculated without my host ; for I discovered, when within three hundred yards of the quarry, that if I persisted in my approach from where I was, that I must cross a bare piece of smooth stony ground, almost a hundred yards in i:rni:ss. 250 way to , rushed lhI«[;(j of om tlio sihly ill broiili;lit stream, itonness lastencd 21' I even the iirst irn-c was I liave twelve lie sun lould be distant lortherii twilight icrieiicc I is the Loiiq; ig cahn greater J quantities from suns(>t to break of (lay than In any other portion of the twenty-four hours. Many may disbelieve this statement; for the saki; of prov- ing the truth of what I slate, let the fisherman in June find his way to the Kiver lU'ide, in the eounty of Cork, let him eonnnenee work at Ivathconnaek about ten in the morning, and use throughout the day all the skill and knowledge he ])ossesses, and 1 will ])ledge myself that he will kill a greater weight of lish in the first hour after sunset, than he does throughout the time the sun is above the hori/on. AVanderer and sojourner in foreign lands as I have been, still can I not recall a more lovely river to fish than the rapid murmuring Bride of the Green Isle of the ocean. The more severe the summer storm, the more invigorating the atmosphere ap})cars after it has passed away ; long and late I sat that night inhaling its fresh balminess. The woods were no longer silent, the depression that for a few nights previously over- powered all animal life Nvas removed, and every rock, log, and tree seemed to find a voice. Even the diminutive chain-mouse, that I had not heard since I sojourned on the banks of the distant Saskatchewan, claimed my attention, with its strange metallic note, so strange, indeed, that listening to it s2 260 LONE LIFE: §h induces wonder liow aught in tlie sliiipc of qujidrupcd, and of so diminutive stature, can produce so unua- tural a call. Those that liave been engaged in logging of a sharp frosty morning can remenihcr the click that the ox-chain nuikes as the various links come to- gether ; the note of the chain-nujuse is similar, but possessed of more reverberation although less body of sound. Oft on a stilly night when moose calling I have heard it ; for many a day I wondered what it could be, till by chance I learned the origin of this (juaintest of animal voices. Whip-poor-will ! who that has spent an evening in American forest-lands can forget this oft-repeated call. It truly has not the melody of the nightingale, still is soft and pleasant to the ear, although apt to be monotonous. To-night it sounded from the dark woods, evidence that this bird (one of the Caprimid- gidce family), although denied a residence by many authorities so far north, does in summer migrate to higher latitudes than supposed. But to bed, to bed, sleepy head, I feel tired and drowsy, so retire. Sugar next day was left in camp to take charge of my worldly wealth, while Cariboo with my se- cond gun proposed hunting eastward, I selecting the reverse direction. In my tramp I saw several A YEAH IN Tin: wilderness. 261 rciiuU'or, but as tlicy appeared wild I did not attempt to stalk them. A wolf gave me a fair but long «Iiot — which I missed — my want of skill not by any means inij)roving my tcMnper. Working my way off tho barren grounds towards the river, I got into a dense swamp of hendoc'k and cedar, the mossy carpeting uf the ground through which these evergreens sprung being cut up with innumerable tracks of the change- able liarc. Convinced that these l)eautiful animals abounded around me, still all exertions to obtain a shot failed, although I practised an artifii^c com- mon among the Indians, and which I have often found successful, viz., walking straight in one direc- tion, and indicating by manner that I am per- fectly indifferent to surrounding objects, or that my attention is directed to something on one of the top- most boughs of a distant tree, then turning suddenly round and looking for such animals in your rear who may have imagined they are safe from the «tar-gazing idiot who has gone by. But the hares here do not yet appear to be educated up to that standard that would make such trickery succeed. At length I gained not the river bank, but ? large extent of overflow caused by beavers. Within a radius of a couple of hundred square yards I counted eight of their dwellings ; and although lately-gnawed 202 LONK i.iFn : wood, niid innuin(M*jil)lo frcsli tracks spoko distinctly of their still iiilialiitiii;:; this sequestered retreat, an hour's jiatient ^\aiting diil not reward luc with a si^ht of the shy architects. I could not lielp thinkiiif; wliat wron*^ itnprossions all are liaMe to iuibihe i'nnn hooks and drawin<(s, as I surveyed the residences of these once valnahio rodents; for instead of their houses looking like the inverted bowl of a soup ladle — smooth on the sur- face and re ila; tin* \iv sur- ii vt'iy >, lioro ^stt'iiia- cstn, oi* h iVoiii ic (Iocs oc's not )lll(l 1)0 once, I lad not ly pro- ugliing lis sur- of his i^ain in ict, be- lieve I lirtvo ii juvtty goo what- ever mischief was promised. The lad having every faith in the professions of fr'.endship hourly ex- hibited by his bedfellow, whistled and called upon the truants to come back, till he was exhausted, but all in vain. Dreading my return, and probably a scold- ing for not keeping the dogs tied up, to bring them home he Avent up the river to where both now were fiercely giving tongue. Fortunately he took with him a club, for excep+ing his knife he had no other arms. On gaining the spot he immediately learned from A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 207 the appearance and niann 'r of the dogs tliat they liad brought to bay in the top of a decayed tree some animal that thev were desirous of iicttinc; at, but couhl not reach. Examination soon discovered a wihl-cat kitten about three niontlis okl. Indians are never at a loss for expedients, so he made a noose, tied it on the end of a pole, and getting above the creature, slipjjed it over its head ^vhile it was occupied in watching the tactics ('\ its two imgry assailants. So far the game was well played — and trium- pl!u,)|]y the lad was preparing to carry home his prize wiifcii he was attacked by the female parent in the most ferocious manner. So sudden was her onslaught, that until the assailant was at his feet she had not been seen ; however, Poteen made a dash at her and gave her a sample of the pattern of liis teeth, but that was all, for as soon as lie discovered the foe was determined to fight, and had received some scratches, he retired, Skye in the mean time coming in for the brunt of the battle. An Indian's courage rarely forsakes him ir the most trying ordeal^ so dropping the captive kitten h rushed for the relinquished club, and with it re- newed the fight. This caused the wild-cat to leave Skye, who by this time was pretty nearly used up, 2C8 LONE LIFEt M\d devote her ciierirles to the boy ; several tunes the agile lad beat her off; but at leugth missing his blow, tlic fiend got inside his reach and fastened on his throat. With characteristic presence of mind Sugar threw himself down, when his sharp-edged knife finished the strufrffle. DO The reader must not think that the North American wild-cat, lucifcc^, or bay lynx is a contenii)tible foe, far from it, for although its weight seldom exceeds two or three and twenty pounds, it is one of the most ferocious, active, and dangerous animals of the New World. Sugar, fortunat'ily, had not suffered as much as his clothes. I believe brin";inff home the kitten and his dead antagonist softened all pains of body that he felt; but Skye was much mauled, one of his eyes being closed, I fear permanently ; even the craven- hearted Poteen had convincing evidence on one leg and along his cheek of how adroitly the foe could handle her teeth and claws. For his mishaps I felt little pity, for if with his superior strength and power of jaw he had assisted the game little terrier, the lad would have been spared, and Skye would have come off with far fewer injuries. Now to Cariboo. He shot one of his namesakes and left it, intending to return for the hide and tit-bits on his homeward journey. After being absent three ■jiSlHL A YEAK IN THE WILDERNESS. 209 -edited or four hours, on approaching ^vhcre lie had left his game, he found an old she-bear with a couple of cubs in possession. Nothing daunted, he determined to dispute the right of property with mooin, on the ground of prior claims, so advanced under cover within twenty yards of the old lady, who was already busy rending the carcase in pieces. The Indian being unaccustomed to the use of a double-gun, in some inexplicable manner discharged one barrel before he had taken aim. This contretempa disclosed the young Indian's ambush, and the old fiend immediately charged. In the hurry of my attendant to fire a second time he got his finger upon the wrong trigger, and of course with no result : at length just as his antagonist was about to spring on him, he pressed the proper one, and believes he wounded the foe ; however, she did not fall, but in the excitement he made his escape and thought himself very fortu- nate in being spared to narrate his adventure. This story was told so straightforwardly that I believed it in every detail, more especially as an Indian seldom, I may say never, exaggerates his own performances, and that a double gun is a rara avi3 among them, and only cccasio:Tally seen in the pos- session of a chief. In spite of skunky smells, the dogs had daily their rrounds well washed in salt and water, and 270 LONE LIFE tlic sores snu'nrcd over witli oil of tar to protect tliein from tlio insects, avIucIi resulted in nil soon tlioron(j;lily rccoverliii;' from their ailineiits. On account of tlu^ cleariii*^ that surrounds it, our camp here, fortu- nately, is not so much troubled witli insect pests as it ^v()uld other\vise be. ^fy heart was lar^^e tliat nin;ht; so assuminu!; tlic duties of medico, J pri'scrlbed for eacli uf my two- footed com])anions, as well as myself — for I had suf- fered many a break ami wound in person as well as in spirits — a nii»;hteap. I can vouch it went down the right way, and that their slumbers, jndi^ino- from my own, were sounder in consequence. Ne>t mornino; Cariboo and I lield a council c-f war on the expediency of visiting the scene of his disaster of yesterday ; tlic result was that we started afhjr breakfast in the hope of meeting Mrs. Bruin mid her progeny. My associate took up the trail of his former track, and at tluit long low pace peculiar to his race, with- out deviation to the right or lo^>, kept it. An Indian when unloaded is a wonderfully rapid walker, and al- though they do no^ appear to be making any exertion, slip over the ground at an amazing gait, so fast, in truth, that it required, and then unsuccessfully, every effort of mine to keep up. However, when I wanted a A YKAIi IN Till] WILI)i:UNi:.SS. 271 few urmutc's' l)roatliin^ tinu', 1 iMv:iri!i1)ly saw some iiiytliical object in tlic distaiu'c that i'L'([uir{'(l coiisi- tloration, ami his oi)inioii on what it wiis. Thus a lialt was ii;aiiKMl, possibly not very rrcMlitahly, hut none tiic loss necessary, for it never does to sliow your weakness, as it niii;lit It'ad to liberties beini^ taken, anvIio or what it was wo wcro not lon^ kept ill doubt, for tlio old l)c:ir with u t'ub showtwl licrself for iin instant, then sho entered the cover from whence the s(>nnd of the stricken animal came. It was now obvious that one of the cubs liad «^'ot the contents of the Indian's fj;un. Cariboo \)y this time liad loadeil tlic empty barrel, so 1 told him to watch for a chance and ^ive the other youngster his ([uietus. 8oon an opportunity occurred, and the cub fell dead. However, the re})ort of the gun brought his dam to the front ; her head was raised lookin*^ in our direc- tion, but not at us, for she had not yet discovered our position. So I took sight and fired for her breast ; the shot was not a good one, still it brought her to the ground ; but recovering herself she regained her foot- ing and charged upon three legs. As ho by this time had reloaded, I retreated behind the Indian to gain time to shovo a fresh cartridge into my gun. Ten, eight, six yards only severed us from the foe, and I was about to step to the front, when bang, bang went both my companion's barrels, and the old vixen was incapable of doing further misc^ief. It was a good and most exciting forenoon's work, and I was more than pleased with my attendant's performance. The old bear was large but lean to an extreme; the cubs, however, were in prime con- A YHAi: i.v Tirr: wit,pi:rnes.s. 275 'ixen >vas lacc we conld discover that appeared fordable. The current was so stron;:; that several times I rei^retted liaviniTim- 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ■f\ 276 LONE LIFE: , '«ifi ' . t, falls, I gained a large meadow many hundre' acres in extent, with a considerable sized pond in the centre. The surface of the water was dotted over* with a number of different varieties of wild-fowl, the preponderating species being the stately mallard and merganser. The margin of this diminutive lake was so swampy that all attempts to reach it failed. One effort I made nearly cost me dearly, for the crust of the surface which had been swaying up and down, almost rolling like miniature waves, broke under the pressure of my right foot, and but for an amount of activity scarcely to be expected from a person of my figure I would have gone in possibly — ^^^es, and probably over my head. Snipe were here very abundant; doubtless this was a favourite hatching- place — for its solitude and nature exactly suited €uch a purpose. On a dead pine of great height, decayed and in many places barkless, sat a bald- headed eagle, solitary guardian of the demesne. Scarcely could he have chosen a more suitable throne, for from his perch he could see on all sides what was transpiring among the animal kingdom that formed his principal , prey. This bird, em- 'blem of the Great Western Republic, is no more ^a favourite of mine than of Benjamin Franklin, f w A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 277 for he is a robber, a coward, and a filthy feeder. Yet it cannot be denied that his appearance is noble and his flight majestic. A.Rhough his appetite is so ravenous that scarcely anything comes amiss to his palate, he mucii prefers to kill his own food; and several times during my observation, with swift and powerful pinion he dashed with the velocity of an arrow on to the surface of the water to seize some thoughtless fish which was- basking on the surface. To kill marauders such as this some deem praise- worthy, but I found him far too wary to ])crmit me within range, even had I desired to do so, which I did not, for they occupy a useful place in the animal creation. After a detour of two or three miles I came upon a lovely little rivulet ; beneath my feet where I struck it was a perpendicular fall of six or seven yards in height, and as I gazed into the rocky recesses of a pool beneath I saw an otter feeding on a trout he had just captured. I got a fair shot at the poacher, but although the distance was short and the animal severely wounded, he managed to struggle into the water. Determined, however, to secure the hide, I ran down to a shallow ford below, which could not be ^78 LONE LIFE : passed without tlie animal aflfordinfr me a second sliot. My supposition that ho would make for this, so as to get down the course of the stream, was correct, for scarcely had I gained my stand hefore it appeared. Blood was flowing profusely from the creature's head and shoulders, still he looked as if he had plenty of vitality left to gain a hiding-place, so I gave him the second barrel. In leno;tli from nose to end of tail this trophy must have measured five feet, a size that is ([uite unusual ; his coat was a beautiful dark chest- nut brown, and although the fur was ratlier short, stiil was in excellent order. The vitality of the otter is ([uite remarkable ; with the exception of the wild- cat I doubt if any animal in the American forests require more killing. For a long time the Canadian otter was consi- dered identical with the European species, but scien- tific men have now decided otherwise ; for inde- pendent of variation in size and colour, they are •discovered to possess osteological differences. On the Pacific coast of North America there is another recognised distinct species to be found. On my route campward I came across a piece of open stony land entirely without trees or brush ; it was covered with the most delicious little wild straw- berries, the only objection being that they were so A YEAR IN THE WILDEUNESS. 279 small that a person could eat much more rapidly than gather them. Got home in good time and found that Cariboo, in my absence, had packed the bear-skins home. He is invaluable on such an excursion, for he is not only an expert hunter, but willing and obliging, and perfectly unassuming. In the course of conversation in the evening he in- formed me that tlicre was a bare bluff, some distance down this side of the river, where a white man had been buried. So I started at earlv day to find it. Tlie weather was not promising, for the clouds were low, and the wind in its feeling spoke of rain. Altliough making the landscape look sombre, still good resulted in two ways; the heat ceased to be oppressive and the flics troublesome, so right briskly I trudged along, passing in my way the rocky hillock where the bears had been killed the day before. Two families of ptarmigan I disturbed ; the young of one brood were able to fly a considerable distance. From their size I should imagine that they must have been quite two months old — rather an early hatching for this neighbourhood. A couple of miles before I reached my destination I felt convinced that I could distinguish the object of mv search, for a mound like a cairn of stones was con- 280 LONE LIFE: ill spicuous on the summit of a knoll which slanted at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the river. After half an hour's further trudge I found my surmises were correct. Stones of all portable sizes and of every possible shape had been thrown together, forming a heap eight or nine feet in height ; by its side laid a rude cross, chiselled out of a slab of stone, brought up doubtless from the river bed. I should have liked to replace this emblem of our faith in its original posi- tion, but all my efforts to move it were abortive Where the upright stem was crossed by the horizontal arms some letters were apparent, but all I could decipher were the capitals. Is it surprising when I say that I sat here for more than an hour, and conjured up all sorts of visions in respect to its origin ? First, I thought it might possibly be a soldier's- grave ; and the muffled note of the drum, the Dead March in Saul, and firing parties, with all the im- pressive ceremonies of such a funeral floated before me; but more mature consideration told me that civilisation had not got sufficiently advanced in this lone land to make that possible. Then I saw, in thought, one who, to preach the Gospel to the hea- then, had expatriated himself from all he held dear, borne up the steep hill brow to be placed in his last^ A YEAR IN THE WILDERNESS. 281 long resting-place by loving and devoted followers, far, so far from the land of his nativity. Or, again, it occurred to me that this out-of-the-way grave might be occupied by some hardy, energetic servant of the all-powerful Hudson Bay Company, who had succumbed under the privation inseparable from their exposed life ; but the cross — why the cross ? From it I was pleased to think that here reposed the mortal remains of one of its servants. 282 LONE LIFE: CIIAPTER XIX. Closeu and closer to earth came the ch)ucls ; a in their absence. Never did 1 sleep more soundly, but my rest was troubled with a thousand strange dreams, so that when I awoke I was as unrefreshed as when I lay down. My head throbbed, my pulse rapidly beat, my skin felt hot, and a sensation of unaccountable languor had taken possession of my limbs. Convinced that I was going to be ill, I yet strug- gled against it with all the determination I could command. Even the dogs, who had sufficiently re- covered to be permitted to run at large, seemed to be aware that something was wrong and to regard me with more than ordinary affection, exchanging their inclinations to roam about for a desire to sit by my side. At length evening came, and with it returned the lads. I welcomed them in the cheeriest manner I could, or at least made an effort to do so ; but their keen eyes soon told them that I was unwell. 288 LONE LIFE Thorouglily prostiatcd I retired to my couch, and two weeks passed before I was able to sit up or recognise my faithful watchers. That period is a dream to me, but how trying must it have been to my atten- dants. July 12th. — About noon my unconsciousness passed away, and my mind's wanderings assumed a rational form. Cariboo entered the shed of boughs in which I reposed; it had been rethatched and strengthened, the better to shelter me. As he gazed upon my face, every lineament of his features denoting the most serious alarm, I spoke. " Thanks, Cariboo," were the words I said. In a moment he knelt by my side, and with a woman's softness took both my hands in his. No tear suffused his eye ; but without it he looked the perfect ideal of gratitude. After a pause he raised his voice, and Sugar joined him in an instant. The lad's features when I addressed him beamed with joy ; silently he came close to me. Exerting my strength I patted him on the cheek, and the poor child clasped my hand and burst into a perfect tor- rent of tears. Struggling to recover himself, with an effort he regained sufficient composure to speak. " Capen, I thought you on the way to meet the Great Manitoo. Suppose he have taken you, I no A YEAU IN TUE WILDEUNESS. 289 wisli to stay Ijeliind ; because I too bad to ^o, ho leave voii with Hie a little time moiv." Until I became convalescent the attention of these two untutored sons of the forest was perfectly touchinnr. They never for a moment left me alone, and their instincts seemed to teach them to anticipate my slightest wisii. 1 liad but to move my hand, when, wliiclicver was near would be at my side ; nor did niii;ht, that period of rest, seem one iota to lessen their vigilance. Generally each day Cariboo went to hunt; and instead of confining himself to large game or fur-bearing aninuds, a squirrel or two, a grouse, or some wild-duck, ho also killed, as he knew my appetite, which had become most fastidious, pre- ferred them. Moreover the meat tea, more pro- ]}erly soup from its thickness, never was permitted to get cold, or the sui)))ly run low, in fact, to this valuable stimulant I credit my rapid recovery of strenij-th. True, it was too strong to take large quantities of, but that did not prevent me applying to it Ire- (juently And such beautiful trout, brought to the camj) alive, were prepared for me with an attention and cleanliness that would have tempted the most fastidious palate. The mode of cooking them by the lads is well VOL. I. 11 290 LONi: LIFE: worth mention, for it is deservin*^ of bein^ fol- lowed in a civilised household. With the aid of a huntinn thi' earll)oo gave evid(Mice of falling, bnt before it liad (piite lost its limbs tlie boy overtook it, and liis knife did tlic rest of tlie work. It was a clever stalk, a gooil shot, and the finale was thorongldy workman-like, and when 1 told the lad what 1 thonght of his perl'ormanee he looked an inch taller at least, and as proud as a pea- cock witii two tails. Having examined a great number of cariboo horns from different ])arts of the American continent, the formation of the antlers of those that 1 or my fol- lowers have killed are almost identical with such as iiave l)een brought from Labrador, loftier, thinner, wider spread, with the palmation more confined to the toi)s than such as I have seen from the island of Newfoundland — the brow antlers ai^ain beiim larger and more j)romincnt than those of the last- mentioned. The flies having entirely disajipeared from the barren grounds, it is Cariboo's o})inion that the reason m«re deer arc seen on our homeward route, is because migration to the south has commenced, and that we have now come in contact with the advance guard. AVhen conversing on the habits of this animal I find mv Indian does not coincide in that most current aoo LUNE LIFK. belief tlmt tlie |)aliiuited antler was inteiidey tliu Creator for eleariii^ away the snow to enal»le \tn owner to ol)tain food in winter; for \nt says, "I never see him do mo bnt with iiis foot, and 1 know cariboo most as well as my own people." This is no exaggeration, the Ameriean abori«;ines uncontanii- nated by frequent intercourse with white men, know the habits of the wild animals as well as they do the features of the members of their tribe. END OP VOL. I. • »' &. 2^4 * '20'q* LONDON C. WHITING. BKAUFORT IIOCSE, DUKH STREET, LINCOLN'S-INN-PIELDH. ^/ Uy till) al)lo it8 ,1) .s, « 1 1 know m is no oiituini- II, know do the IHLDS. ^/