MILITARY JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 COLONEL LESLIE, R.H., of Balquhain, 
 
 WHILST SKRVIXa WITH 
 
 THK 2yTH KEGT- IN THE PENINSULA, 
 AND THE 60TII RIFLES IN CxVNADA, .^c. 
 
 1807-1832. 
 
 >< * . • • * ■ ■ • 
 
 *■ •••• •• 
 
 • • * • » *, • 
 
 ABERDEEN UNIVERSITY PRESS. 
 
 1887. 
 [All RighU reserved.'] 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 This Military Journal appears to begin and end 
 rather abruptly, because only those parts are given 
 which refer to subjects of public interest. It is 
 hoped it may prove both amusing and instructive. 
 The notes at the end were not left ready for press 
 by Colonel Leslie ; it has therefore been necessary to 
 add them separately. 
 
 1st July, 1887. 
 
 KOQ^^K 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Paut I. 1807-8, ... 
 
 „ II. 1800, 
 
 „ III. 1810-11, ... 
 
 „ IV. 1812-16, .. 
 
 „ V. 1817-32, .. 
 NoTKs ON Portugal, 
 NoTKS ON Spain and Poutugal, ... 
 
 Notes on Halifax, 
 
 Ankcdotes of Colonel Leslie, ... 
 
 90 
 183 
 230 
 282 
 
 85 
 319 
 330 "i 
 
PAHT 1.-1807-8. 
 
 Ix Fobruary, 1M()7, I received orders to join tlio depot of my 
 regiment hi the Isle of Wight. 1 took my pussagi; in one of 
 the Ahurdeeu smacks, and, after a stormy voyage, I arrived 
 in London, 1st March. 
 
 On the loth Marcli I reached Southani[)ton. Next morning, 
 the 14th, I went to Uowes and Xew[)ort. On the following 
 day, the loth, I reportetl myself to Colonel liarlow, the 
 Commandant of the Army Depot, at rarkhiirst I'arracks, 
 which was the general rendezvous for all the oflicers and 
 recruits who \ven» under orders to join their respective corps 
 on foreign service. 
 
 Owing to this circumstance there was at times an immense 
 assemblage of ofHcers at I'arkhurst Uarracks. Many of these 
 oflicers i^roved to be very disorderly in their habits. This 
 chiefly arose from a wrong system then pursued of allowing 
 olHcers who had got into scrai)es in their own corps to exchange 
 into other regiments, instead of bringing them to trial in their 
 own, in order to save its credit. These persons always found 
 respectable ollicers belonging to regiments quartered in un- 
 healthy stations who were willing to give them a large sum 
 to exchange. Consequently, a young man, on joining the 
 depfit, required to act with great ])rudence and circumspection, 
 and to be guarded in his choice of acquaintances and associates. 
 Fcnluiuitely for me, I found there tw^o veiy respectable young 
 men, also belonging to the 2Uth IJegimeut — a ]\Ir. Duguid 
 and another gentleman. We formed a little mess, and dined 
 together. 
 
 Two or three weeks after my arrival, .although I had never 
 s 1 
 
2 
 
 done any dntj', and hnd not even nttninod the lonfrtli of the 
 goosG-stoiJ in the way of drill, 1 was onlcicd on (hitacliiiicnt 
 to Niton with a party of the New Sontli Wides Corps, under 
 the command of Captain Cununing. This hero, I found, had 
 tried his luck in several corps, hut had never remained lonjj 
 in any. It appeared that he knew little or nothinj^ of his 
 real professional duties. He asjnred to be a great martinet, 
 especially in petty barrack detail. Nothing would satisfy 
 him but that he must have thi! soldiers' roonis washed and 
 scrubbed out every Uiorning. He issued an order that man, 
 woman, and child, and every article of bedding, furniture, &c„ 
 should be turned out into the barrack-yard every morning at 
 daybreak. This was a sharp order for any corps, but it fell 
 particularly hard on the New South Walers, inasmuch as every 
 man of them liad a wife, and many had two, three, or more 
 children — they having been expressly permitted, as married 
 men, to volunteer from other corps to go to that colony. 
 
 After the second morning the men began to grumble, and 
 on the third, a cold, Ideak day, tliey swore it was all nonsense 
 to be so humbuggi;d. On the fourth day they positively 
 refused to obey the Captain's orders. They put on their 
 accoutrements, knapsacks, &c., and paraded with their arms 
 in marching order, and determined to march back to the depot. 
 I then knew nothing of military afl'airs, but common-sense 
 told me that all was wrong here. I ventured to interfere, 
 first expostulating with the Captain, and then, by a short 
 harangue to the mutineers, I brought both parties to reason, 
 and the soldiers returned to their duty. After ruralising two 
 or three weeks in this romantic part of the island, to my 
 great satisfaction I was released from my post, and I returned 
 to Newport in April. 
 
 Soon afterwards the 56th Eegiment, under command of 
 April, 1807. Coloiiel Keating, arrived, and was quartered at New- 
 port preparatory to their embarking for India. My cousin, 
 Charles Macdonell, was a captain in this regiment. I had 
 never seen him. Happening to go into a shop where he 
 chanced to be, I observed an ofBcer staring at me. He then 
 
3 
 
 exclnimcd, " Oli ! you must bo my cousin, you so much re- 
 8(!ml)Ui Homo of tlic Loslin family I liiive seen!" I plcadi'tl 
 guilty, nud wns (Icli^hU'il to uiiiko hi.s aciiuaiiitivncc, an ho was 
 a most worthy gcutlemau. 
 
 Ono (lay I observed a dashiii<,dy dressed, gontlemauliko 
 young man lirought into barracks haiidcutred under a military 
 escort. A court-martial was immediately onlered to assemble, 
 and the young man was accused of desertion, and was found 
 guilty. I was present in court. The ][i(c and Crij was pro- 
 duced, in which he was advertised under a dozen different 
 characters. He was sentenced to be flogged, ami he received 
 FIVE HUNDRED LASHES. His story was a singular one. He 
 was the natural son of a nol)le lord. He was brought up 
 luxuriously, but having a bent for dissipation and gambling, 
 he spent his all. IJy way of raising the wind, he enlisted 
 with various recruiting parties, the bounty to recruits being 
 at that period very high. He no sooner pocketed his bounty 
 than he deserted, and by his dexterity in assuming diflerent 
 characters, for a length of time he evaded detection. How- 
 ever, one evening he was recognised lounging in the saloons 
 at Drury Lane, and was taken as a deserter, and sent a 
 prisoner to the depot in the Isle of Wight. He was lodged 
 in the guard-room, and retained the dross which he wore 
 when he was taken. He availed himself of this circumstance 
 to eflect his escape, which he did in the following manner : — 
 Soon after daybreak on the morning following his arrival, he 
 pretended to be taken with an urgent necessity of nature. 
 A sentinel, as is customary, was sent to conduct him to the 
 privy. Having plenty of money, he put a few guineas into 
 the sentinel's hand, — in short, bribed him, not only to allow 
 him to escape, but to desert with him. He made the best 
 of his way to Hyde with all expedition, gave out that his 
 rascally servant had robbed him and deserted with all his 
 money, and that he was determined to jiursue him. He got 
 a well-manned boat, and proceeded to Portsmouth. On 
 landing he gave the boatmen money, and told them to go 
 and refresh themselves, while he went to the General to get 
 
nn order for parlii'.s to h((iuc1i for his scrvftiit. IFc then wont 
 to a Jew's sli()]t, Hdld lii.s I'lisliioiii'tli' toj,';,'i'rv, and imrchasiid 
 others of a dill'ertint sort. After this hu took a place in tlu? 
 first coach to London, fairly escaped, and coinnienced a 
 new career. Soon aftcMwards lie was a<,'ain discovered, 
 l)ron.L!;ht hack a prisoner to the Isle of Wi^dit, and was tried 
 and convicted as I liav(! described. 
 
 It was announced to us in May, 1807, that the 20th Rcr»i- 
 nient was to return luune from North Anuirica, and conse- 
 (luently that we were to I'emain at the dejjot till its arrival. 
 ]\ry cousin, Captain Charles Macdonell, (»f the oOth Ucii^inient, 
 introduced nio to Colonel Kc^atinu;, who very kindly odered to 
 get me promoted to a lieutenancy in his regiment. I felt 
 very ^'rateful to him, but I dcclin(^l his oblij,Mn^' ofl'er, because 
 I had always a desire to serve in any campaign that might 
 lake i)lace on tli(! continent of Kuroi)e. 
 
 On the 2Gth -July, 1S07, (.'aptain Nestor arrived at the depot 
 with some invalids (jf the 2I)th Regiment, which had arrived 
 at Spithead, and was waiting there for orders. Lieutenant 
 Gregory and I left the dei>ot next day, the 27tli, with the 
 Captain, to join the regiment; liut on our arrival at Ports- 
 mouth we found that it had sailed for the Downs some hours 
 before. We were tlmrefore obliged to pr(jceed by coach to 
 London next morning. On the I'nllowing day we set out for 
 Deal. On our arrival at Canterliury we found that the coach 
 went no farther. We were transferred to a sort of two-horse 
 carriage of tho most wretched description, and we did not 
 reach Deal until late at night — so bad were the public 
 conveyances at that time. 
 
 On the 30th July I went on board the head-quarter ship 
 sotujuiy, ^"fl reported myself to the commanding officer, 
 1807. Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel White. All were then in 
 
 full expectation that the regiment would be employed in 
 the expedition tiien assembling in the Downs, and which 
 shortly afterwards proceeded to Copenhagen, and took that 
 capital. But to our great disappointment, a few hours after- 
 wards the 29tii liegiuient received orders to disembark, and 
 
occupy the bnrrncks nt Dciil. Wc; nftcrwards Icnrnod tluit tho 
 riMiHon why we wvva onlfit'tl to rciiiuiii was tlint tlii! autlmritios 
 at the ir(»rs(« (luiirds ,su|niiisi<l tin* rcj^iiiiciit coiilil ii<»t bo 
 in a fit state fur iiiiiiit'<liatc service, owini; to its liavini^ been so 
 loii^' in North Anieri(;a. Never was there a greater iiiistako. 
 All theg(!ueral oflicurs who beheld its disenibarkalion declared 
 that it was one of tho finest corps they had ever seen. 
 
 One evening in September, 1807, while \\v. were sitting 
 at mess, wo heard a sharp firing of ninsketry. We went 
 into the barrack-yard, and several shots flew over oui 
 heads. We went to the barrack-gate, which opened towards 
 the sea, there being only the pul)lic road betwixt the gate and 
 the beach. Tliere we found that a largi! Hinuggling b(jat had 
 run on shore, having passed through the fleet then lying at 
 anchor. The smugglers had been observed, and were pursued 
 by the boats of the men-of-war, who fired on them. Tho 
 moment tho smugglers landed tla-y drew ui) and most 
 daringly returned the fire. While b(jth parties were thus 
 engaged, we observed the wives ami children of the 
 smugglers, assisted by their friends, emptying the boat of 
 its cargo of brandy casks and boxes of lace, and hurrying 
 off with them, regardless of the firing, which was still 
 maintained with great energy ; nor diil it entirely cease 
 until the smugglers actually brought down a couple of 
 horses, yoked them to the l)oat, and started oil' with 
 it at a hand-gallop to the country. As we had then no 
 authority or orders to interfere, we could only be silent 
 spectators of this extraordinary scene. The melancholy 
 part remains to be told. On the part of the Itoyal Navy 
 one man was killed, and two or three were severely wounded. 
 It was said that the smugglers lost several men, but as they 
 were carried off by their friends the number could not be 
 ascertained. After the affair was over the custom-house 
 officers applied for military assistance. Our light company 
 was immediately turned out, ami assisted in seaiching houses 
 on the outskirts of the town. Some iifty kegs of brandy were 
 got, but the greater part had been sent into the country. It 
 
seemed very odd that none of the revenue people app eared 
 to seize the goods when landing, or even to prevent the 
 smugglers from carrying thorn off. 
 
 On the 7th November, 1807, the 2yth Regiment received 
 a route to march to Bradborn, where there was one of those 
 low wooden temporary barracks, situated on a swampy 
 common between Hytlie and Ashford, in Kent. In passing 
 through Dover, Lord Forbes, who then commanded there, 
 very kindly invited all the oHicers to breakfast, but owing 
 to my having connnand of the l»i>ggage-guard, I could not 
 partake of his hospitality. This was a tremendously long 
 day's march, being upwards of thirty miles. 
 
 At Bradborn we received intelligence that the expedition 
 to Copenhagen had proved eminently successful, and that the 
 city had been taken, and the Danish fleet secured. Rumours 
 began to circulate that a force was to be assembled to be 
 employed on some secret service, and a few days afterwards 
 a route arrived ordering the regiment to march for Portsmouth. 
 On the 28th November, 1807, the 29th Regiment com- 
 menced its march. Passing through Tenterden, we reached 
 Cranbrooke. Next day being Sunday, we halted. During 
 the day there was a considerable fall of snow. On Monday 
 we reached Tunbridge Wells. They told me at the hotel 
 in the morning that I had slept with my head in one 
 1st Doc, county and my heels in another. On the 1st 
 ^^^'^' December we reached East Grinstead ; on the 
 
 2nd, Cuckfield ; on the 3rd, Horsham ; on the 4th, 
 Petworth. Next day we halted, and availed ourselves of this 
 opportunity to inspect the splendid mansion of the Earl of 
 Egremont, situated in a richly-wooded park contiguous to 
 the town. On the 6th we marched through Midhurst to 
 Petersfield, where General Gordon Forbes, the colonel of the 
 29th Eegiment, inspected us. He afterwards entertained all 
 the officers at a splendid dinner, and informed us that we 
 were to embark next day to be employed on a secret 
 expedition, but that we were not to divulge this to our 
 men. This was glorious news for us. The chance of 
 
seeing active service inspired all us youngsters with visions 
 of military glory. 
 
 We inarched from Petersfield at an early hour on the 
 morning of the 7th December, 1807. On reaching the small 
 town of Coshani, about four miles from Portsmouth, the 
 Honourable Lieutenant-Colonel Lake, who had recently been 
 appointed to the 29th, joined, and took command of the 
 re"iinent. He ordered us to halt, and invited all the officers 
 to breakfast, which he had previously ordered. He likewise 
 treated all the men to a substantial repast. 
 
 The regiment then proceeded to Portsmouth, and, without 
 halting, marched directly to the point, where we found flat- 
 bottomed boats all ready to carry us on board the transports. 
 This was the first notice that the men had of their embarkation 
 for foreign service. They were all instantly in great spirits, 
 and they entered the boats with as great coolness and regu- 
 larity as if they had only been going to cross a ferry. They 
 embarked amidst the cheers of an immense multitude and 
 the sounds of martial music, to which they cheerfully 
 responded. It was, however, very distressing to hear the 
 wailings of many poor women and children, who were thus 
 suddenly separated from their husbands and fathers, and left 
 destitute on the beach. A certain number belonging to each 
 company were afterwards permitted to embark. 
 
 We now learned that a force, under the command of Sir 
 Brent Spencer, was to be employed on a secret December, 
 service, and that the transports were ordered to be secret 
 
 .... , , . . cxpeditidu 
 
 provijjioned tor six months — but our destmation under sir 
 remained a profound mystery. ^Noone could divine siiencer. 
 what was the object of the expedition, or to what part of the 
 world it was likely to go. We only knew that we were to 
 sail under sealed orders with the first fair wind after the 10th 
 December, 1807. 
 
 The force employed in this expedition consisted of the 
 29th, 50th, 32nd, and 82ud liegiments, with four battalions 
 of the German Legion, and some batteries of artillery, all 
 under the command of Lieutenant-General Sir Dient Spencer, 
 
8 
 
 and Miijov-Gencvals bir Miles Niglitingale and Sir Kol)ert 
 Macfai'liiiio commanding brigades. AftLU'wards the Gtli, yth, 
 [list, and a detachment of the Coth Kifles, under the command 
 of Lientenant-General Bowes, joined. 
 
 The 2Utii lU'giment embarked in four transports. The 
 liead-qnarter ship, under Lieutenant-Colonel Lake, took four 
 companies ; the second, under Captain liicliard p]gerton, took 
 two companies ; tlie third, under Captain Nestor, two com- 
 panies; and the fourth, the John transport, under Captain 
 Cauntlett, took one company and the weakly men — this 
 being also the hospital ship. In this latter ship I embarked. 
 We had the pleasure and advantage of having on board with 
 us the regimental surgeon, the eminent Mr. Guthrie ; also 
 Lieutenant Humphrey, a clever, amusing Irishman, and En- 
 sign Alexander Young, who played Scoieli reels on the violin 
 with great vigour, to our amusement. This gentleman had 
 been a captain in the Aberdeenshire Militia, and had volun- 
 teered to serve in the regular army. 
 
 The convoy was detained by contrary winds after the day 
 fixed for sailing. The wind being from the west proved that 
 our destination lay in that direction, and not to the eastward. 
 During this delay an olllcer from the regiment was sent on 
 sliore every day to receive orders from the office of the 
 Adjutant-General of the expedition. On one occasion, it 
 being my turn to perform this duty, I had to take a copy of 
 a code of private signals established for the expedition, and 
 the officers connnanding each transport received three letters, 
 each sealed, marked private, and numbered I., II., III. 
 
 On the 2Uth December, 1807, the wind having chopped 
 round to the eastward, the convo}', consisting of about 
 three hundred sail, got under weigh, and passed through 
 the Needles. On the 22nd we were fairly in the liay 
 of Biscay. Next day the wind failed. It became a 
 dead calm, and the sea was as smooth as glass, so that we 
 lowered our boats and exchanged visits with the other 
 transports. During the night the wind began to rise, 
 coming i'rom the south-west, directly in our teeth. I 
 
9 
 
 hai)pened to be on tliu midnight watch. The night was 
 pitcliy dark ; suddenly I observed a round rod light, and 
 called the attention of the mate to it. lie said, "It is the 
 Commodore's light, but how on earth can it be so near us, 
 for just before dark I saw him a long way ahead ? " While 
 in this wonderment, the light suddenly enlarged, and moved 
 two or three times quickly up and down, and then vanished, 
 leaving us in still greater amazement. It was a meteor, which 
 proved to be a bad omen. The wind increased in violence. 
 All sail was shortened. It was evident that a gale of wind 
 had commenced. The gale was so bad on the 25th o^thDcc, 
 — Christmas day — that we could only get a small ^**"'^" 
 quantity of meat cooked, and we were obliged to eat our food 
 seated like Turks on sails on the cabin floor. This tremen- 
 dous storm continued for some time with unabated fury. The 
 fleet was much dispersed, and we were buffeted about for 
 three days without being able to make an inch of headway. 
 On the 28th December, the Commodore hoisted a blue and 
 yellow checked flag. This puzzled our ship-captain, and also 
 our commander. No one could make anything of it. When I 
 saw that they all gave it up, I suggested that they had better 
 look into the code of private signals, and they would find 
 that it meant to repair to the rendezvous No. I. They did 
 so, and I was right. The sealed order Xo. I. being opened, 
 it was found that the fleet was directed to rendezvous off Lisbon. 
 We were, if possible, more anxious than ever to get on, 
 but we were doomed to disappointment. The 
 
 1 • .-ii ^ ^ 1 c^i ~w^ 1 1 Expedition 
 
 hurricane still raged. On the 31st December only rttnnisto 
 two vessels remained in sight. Our vessel, which stresHof 
 
 1 PI- • • weather. 
 
 was by no means of large size, was straining very 
 much. .No fire could be lighted, and no progress could be 
 made. We were therefore obliged to lay too. The ship- 
 captain represented all the diiliculties to the conmianding 
 officer, and recommended that we should bear up for Fal- 
 mouth. This was accordingly done, and on the i^tjan., 
 morning of the 1st January, 1808, we found our- ^^^^ 
 selves scudding back to England under almost bare poles, 
 
10 
 
 much against our inclination. We were driven past Fal- 
 mouth, and then tried for Plyraovith, but as the storm still 
 blew furiously, no pilot could reach us. We therefore pro- 
 5th Jan. ceeded to Portsmoutli, aud arrived at ihe Mother- 
 ^^"'*- "' bank on the 5th January, 1808. 
 
 Two or tliree days afterwards we received orders to go to 
 F.dmouth. We sailed again from Portsmouth as soon as the 
 wind became fair, which it did on the 18th Ja-iuary — Queen 
 Charlotte's birthday. We reached Falmouth on the 23rd. 
 We found that a considerable part of the convoy had re- 
 assembled there; but amongst many of the tranports missing, 
 there was one belonging to the 29th Eegimeut, under Cap- 
 tain Nestor, After a lapse of some days, we learned that the 
 missing ships had reached the fleet then blockading Lisbon. 
 
 It now transpired that our original destination had been 
 to take possession of Lisbon ; but owing to our delay, the 
 French army had succeeded in occupying that capital, so that 
 our primary object was frustrated. 
 
 While we were lying at Falmouth waiting orders, time 
 passed heavily — being cooped up in a transport in harbour is 
 very tantalising. Many officers who coild afford it lived at 
 hotels on shore, but the state of my finances did not admit of 
 such indulgence. We were anchored on a mass of oyster- 
 beds, embedded on copper-banks, and consequently impreg- 
 nated with that poisonous metal. There was a great tempta- 
 tion to indulge in the poisonous delicacies. 
 
 On the 18th February, 1808, all the officers had gone on 
 shore except myself, who was left in charge of the ship. 
 On hearing the bugle sound for orders on board the head- 
 quarter ship, I sent the orderly -sergeant on board, and he 
 shortly afterwards returned aud brought me the orderly-book. 
 On opening it I was most agreeably surprised to find I had 
 charios ^^^^ promoted to a lieutenancy without purchase, 
 Jbteinsa and had been gazetted on the 10th February, with 
 lotirFeb!"^' several others under me. This was an important step 
 for me, who had neither money nor political friends 
 to rely on. I lost no time in announcing this rise in the 
 
11 
 
 military profession to my father, as an evidence that I had 
 not only got a commission, bnt that I was also getting on. 
 
 Onv destination still remained a mystery. Orders, how- 
 ever, at lenf'th arrived for our departure ; but except xho noot 
 the General and the Naval Commander, no one Gibraltar, 
 knew whither. Our former excitement and expectation of 
 soon entering on some particular service were revived. We 
 were glad to depart, particularly as the whole country was 
 wrapped in a wintery mantle of snow. 
 
 The fleet sailed from Falmoutli with a fair wind on the 
 23rd February, 1808. In two or three days we were nearly 
 across the Bay of l^iscay, which, although as usual very 
 rough, was comparatively smooth to what it was two months 
 before. During one of the nights there was a vessel not far 
 from us firing signal-guns of distress ; but the sea was so 
 rough that no boat could venture to go to her assistance. 
 Fortunately the weather moderated after daybreak, and the 
 vessels nearest the one in distress succeeded in rescuing the 
 troops and crew on board ; and well they did so, for the ship 
 went down head-foremost soon after being abandoned. A 
 heroic action deserves to be recorded ; two ladies, oflicers' 
 wives, on board the distressed vessel sat on deck during the 
 whole night, cutting up flannel petticoats, and made them into 
 cartridge bags. 
 
 We kept a southerly course, and on the morning of the 
 28th February, 1808, we made the Eock of Lisbon ; and in 
 the evening we passed outside the English fleet blockading 
 the port, the French being then in possession of the country. 
 We continued running down the coast of Portugal, and late 
 on the 1st March, 1808, we made Cape St. Vincent. Here the 
 wind became light, so that we made but little way for some 
 days. Then we found that our course was taking an easterly 
 direction. The ship-captain informed us that we were off 
 Cadiz, and that as there were no orders to stop there, we must 
 be going up the Straits, His surmise proved correct. Next 
 day we were off Trafalgar, of glorious memory, and at daylight 
 on the morning of the 12th March we beheld the pillars of 
 
12 
 
 Hercules. There lay the verdant highlands of Spain on the 
 left hand, and the bold blue hills of Africa on the right. The 
 Channel gradually closed, and we were about to enter the gut, 
 when we observed another large convoy bearing down upon 
 us from the southward. This was a fleet of merchantmen, 
 also from England. It was a grand and magnificent sight to 
 see five or six hundred vessels, all imder the British flag, 
 passing in proud defiance within gunshot of the hostile shore. 
 All eyes were eagerly gazing to catch the first glimpse of the 
 celebrated Rock of Gibraltar. On approaching the headland, 
 one more distant, of stupendous magnificence, began to open 
 upon us. All stood mute for a while, and then everyune 
 called out, " That is Gibraltar ! " There it stood before us in 
 all its grandeur. But before we had time to get a good view 
 of it with our telescopes, a loud booming of heavy artillery 
 came over the water on our ears, from the left hand, and we 
 observed large shot plunging or ricochetting on the water at 
 no great distance from us. Our glasses were instantly turned 
 in that direction. We had just passed the old Moorish town 
 of Tariffa, having an island in front of it, on the Spanish 
 coast, when we observed a squadron of Spanish gunboats 
 which had been concealed behind this island. These gun- 
 boats were very annoying to our trade, and even to ships 
 of war. They concealed themselves behind the Island of 
 Tariffa, and in coves and creeks, and when there was no wind 
 they dashed out and attacked the vessels which were be- 
 calmed, with little risk to themselves, as they were mere 
 specks on the water. The Spanish gunboats were pushing 
 along the shore, and blazing away at us. On reaching 
 Cape Cabrito point the fleet was obliged to hug the Spanish 
 shore, in order to enter the Bay of Gibraltar, and to avoid 
 being carried past it by the current. The Spaniards took 
 advantage of this to open their batteries on us, while another 
 squadron of gunboats coming from Alge^iras attempted to 
 intercept us. A heavy fire was kept up for a time, but they 
 hit only two or three of the transports, and the head-quarters 
 ship of the 5Uth Eegiment, commanded by Colonel George 
 
13 
 
 Walker, which suffered considerably, several soldiers being 
 killed and wounded ; the mate of the vessel was also shot 
 dead. The Fpaniards, no doubt, might have done us con- 
 siderable dania,L!;e had not a detachment of our own gunboats 
 come out from (Jibraltar to protect us. The iJritish gunboats 
 formed line between us and the enemy, and the wind and 
 tide being in our favour, we passed rapidly on. We soon 
 entered the bay, wlien a magnificent view of Gibraltar ap- 
 peared before us as a .splendid panorama. 
 
 We came to anchor on the 12th March, 1808, at the New 
 Mole, near the dockyard, and on the 14th all the English 
 portion of the expedition disembarked, and the four battalions 
 of the German Legion proceeded on to Sicily under Major- 
 General Macfarlane. 
 
 I found it a gix'at relief to be once more on terra firma 
 after such a long confinement, having been on board ship 
 since the 7th December, without having slept even one 
 night on .shore during the whole winter. Our duty had been 
 also rather severe, owing to there being only three subalterns 
 on board, one for each watch. We had each to be four long 
 hours on deck every night while at sea — that is to say, for 
 example, I went on watch the first night at eight o'clock in 
 the evening, and remained until twelve o'clock at night ; 
 next night I went on at midnight, and remained till four 
 o'clock in the morning; and on the following night I was 
 called up at four o'clock, and remained till eight o'clock in 
 the morning. No matter how stormy, how wet, or how dark 
 it might be, turn out of your warm berth you must, creep 
 upon deck, and then shiver for hours, having nothing on 
 earth to do. 
 
 We had left England some ten days before buried in snow, 
 and here we were in the Garden of Eden. The transition 
 was very remarkable. The almond and other fruit trees 
 were in full bloom, and the orange-groves dazzling with 
 ripe fruit and snow-white blossoms. 
 
 What our destination was to be was still a mystery. We 
 were not amalgamated with the other troops of the garrison ; 
 
14 
 
 indocd, onr forco Imd so ovevcvowdeil tho place that there was 
 not suflioiont nccommndutioii for all. Two conipiiiiies of each 
 rc;,'iineiit were ordered on board the trannports, ami were 
 relieved every fortnight; all, however, took tlieir turn in 
 the various garrison duties. 
 
 I lost no time in exploring the wonders of this remark- 
 able place, and in making myself acquainted with all the 
 details of its exterior defences. One day, shortly after our 
 arrival, I passed out at the Land-port gate to the neutral 
 ground, in order, if possible, to inspect the Spanish lines 
 and works, whicii were erected across the low peninsula. 
 In my eagerness I got closer up to them than prudence 
 warranted, when I observed a Spanish soldier coming rapidly 
 out towards me. This rather puzzled me. It was too late to 
 retreat, and I had no firearms. So I thouglit it best to put 
 on a bold face, and await his coming close. I was greatly 
 relieved when he held up a couple of dead kids, evidently 
 offering them for sale. We came to a parley. I had acquired 
 a few words of Spanish from my grammar. I was giving him 
 to understand that I did not want the kids, when the 
 officer on duty came out, took off his hat, and saluted me. I 
 returned his salute, and he wished me " buenas dias," and 
 then inquired for news. I said we had not heard from 
 England for some time, and that I was in a hurry. So I 
 made him a bow, and shook hands, and got clear off, well 
 pleased to be out of the scrape, as what I had done was 
 contrary to the garrison regulations, I thought the Spaniards 
 were very civil enemies. 
 
 Amongst the numerous vessels of war then stationed at 
 Gibraltar was the Red Wing, a well-manned, fast-sailing sloop 
 of war. Her gallant commander. Captain Usher, was a most 
 daring and enterprising officer. He was continually cruising 
 along the Spanish coast, dashing at the enemy's ships and 
 convoys going from one port to another. He always 
 succeeded in making captures in defiance of the Spanish 
 cruisers and batteries. We used to watch him when he 
 quitted the bay. He used to stand over close to the Spanish 
 
1.^ 
 
 shore, when tlio Spaniards would pay liim the compliment of 
 salniin<^ him witli hoavy t^mns from the batteries as he dashed 
 alon<^. We could often see the splashes of the shots as they 
 struck the sea, some dropping short, others going over him. 
 
 No place is more worthy of the traveller's notice than 
 Gibraltar, and to a military man it is particularly noHcrfption 
 interesting from its natural and artificial strength. o'tJibraitar. 
 In approaching it by sea its formidable and picturesque 
 appearance is very striking. The stupendous height of 
 the Itock rising abruptly from the flat sandy plain on 
 the north, or Spanish, side, the cragged peaks of the 
 upper ridge, the length of rock extending towards the 
 south, and ending in the lower rocky ground of Europa 
 Point, present a panorama which cannot be rivalled. The 
 town presents a gay appearance, situated as it is on a declivity 
 on the north-west corner of the liock. It is built like an 
 amphitheatre, ranges of building towering one above the 
 other, all the houses being painted various colours. It is 
 surmounted by an ancient Moorish castle. Long lines of 
 fortifications run along the sea-front. The various quays and 
 inoles are crowded with shipping of every size and description, 
 British and foreign. The general bluish-grey appearance of 
 the stem rock is enlivened by the rich verdure of the ever- 
 greens, and various sorts of fruit-trees embellish the neat 
 gardens attached to the various houses, some of which are 
 built on ledges seeming to overhang the precipitous rock, and 
 others are situated on gentle slopes. Such is the external 
 appearance of Gibraltar, 
 
 Nor is it less remarkable within. The diversified nature 
 of the fortifications, their immense extent and impregnable 
 strength, strike every observer. The north front of the rock 
 towards Spain presents an almost perpendicular face. This is 
 pierced with galleries, one above the other, cut out of the 
 solid rock, having port-holes for cannon. These tiers of guns 
 look like the broadside of a man-of-war. On the top of the 
 rock, where it is tolerably level, there are mortar batteries and 
 magazines, high in air. All these batteries command the 
 
16 
 
 neutral piround. Each gun hns its range luaikcd, so that a 
 column approiicliiiig, or l)eiiig in miy particular spot, can bo 
 hit with certainty. Hciicath this coinniencc the regular forti- 
 fications of the Land-port ami Water-port, on the north-west 
 angle, and which arc contiiuuul southwards along the whole 
 sea-front, facing the west, to Kuropa Point, about two or three 
 miles. From the Water-i)ort a long battery, mounted with 
 heavy guns, runs out into the bay in a northerly direction, 
 flanking the neutral ground, and, being on a level with it, 
 sweeping it comi»letely by a. cross lire. These fornndable 
 works are called by the ap]»ropriate name of the Devil's 
 Tongue. This, however, is but a meagre outline of the 
 numerous artificial and natural defences. Viewed as a whole, 
 the rock inspires awe and admiration. The immen.se store- 
 houses, the vast magazines, the piles of shot and shell lying 
 in every direction, the grand reservoir for water, the order and 
 regularity with which everything is arranged, prove that 
 every preparation is made and held in readiness for a 
 resolute defence. 
 
 There are many peculiarities in the town which sti'ike a 
 stranger — such as the various styles of building ; but nothing 
 strikes one more than the motley appearance of the inhabitants. 
 These are composed of all nations from every quarter of the 
 globe. All are dressed in the fashion of their several countries. 
 One sees numbers of Arabs and Turks, in their rich loose dresses 
 and morocco slippers ; dark Muurs, in their white camel-hair 
 cloaks ; multitudes of Jews, in their small sealskin caps, blue 
 cassocks, and with bare legs; Greeks, in their splendid costumes; 
 Genoese women, in red cloaks with black spots ; Spanish 
 beauties, in their native attire, saya and mantilla, pacing 
 gracefully along ; English and French, in every variety of 
 fashion ; military uniforms of every shade, without uni- 
 formity, from the kilted Highlander to the dark--ieen 
 rifleman. In fact, the public square at any time of the 
 day represents the most perfect hal costume that can 
 be imagined. It must be allowed, however, that behind 
 this fancy scene there are some drawbacks. The streets are 
 
17 
 
 imrrovv, and in ^ciRMal by iin means clonn. A liorrid smull 
 of ^iiiiic jn.'1'viide.s tliem diuiii;; the dinnur liour. 
 
 I WiiH imieh gmtilitnl by liaviiii,' beun (lihraltar. It is a 
 place wliicli every military man oui^lit to visit at least once 
 in liis lifetime. I5ut we left it without regret. Owinfj; to its 
 being the tinie of war, all connnunication with tlie country 
 was closed, so that after the first novelty wore off, the garrison 
 became a kind of prison, floating in the bay was a favourite 
 amusement with some, but it was frequently attended with 
 no small risk from the sudden eddies or gusts of wind. 
 Beyond our military circle wo found little or no society. 
 It was not thought proper at that time for the military to 
 associate much with the civilians; nor were the English 
 inhabitants, except those holding public situations, generally 
 admitted to the parties at Ciovernment House, or to the 
 garrison balls. Our greatest resource was the garrison pidjlic 
 librarv, which contained a valuable collection of all the best 
 works on every subject, and the reading-room, where were 
 newspapers from every country in the world. It is a very 
 handsome public building, which also contains the garrison 
 assembly-rooms, and it was in contemplation to erect billiard- 
 rooms and a tennis-court. 
 
 Our expedition still lingered at Gibraltar, now seemingly 
 without any definite object. But we got hints that it was in 
 contemplation that we should make a dash at the fortress of 
 Centa on the opposite coast of Africa, and carry that strong- 
 hold of the S})aniards by a covp de tnain. 
 
 About the 8th May, 1808, we were surprised to hear the 
 batteries of Algec^iras firing a salute. Shortly afterwards 
 the intelligence was promulgated that there had been 
 a tumult at Madrid on the 2nd May, that the Spaniards 
 had risen against the French, and there had been desperate 
 fighting in the streets. The Spanish people were jealous 
 of French interference in their affairs, and resented 
 the occupation of their country. Being animated by 
 just indignation and high national spirit, they nobly 
 rose to resist and to avenge themselves on their op- 
 
 2 
 
18 
 
 pressors. Although at Madrid the gallant jicoplo had been 
 ovci'itowiTed by HUitcrior nuiubi'r.s, and many bail betMi 
 mafssacri'd, yet thu .spirit of rovcngo and patriotism rapidly 
 spread ovi-r the land. 'J'bo .signals of resistance bla/ed on the 
 most conspicuous mountains. 'J'lie banner of freedom waved 
 over every town. The terrible war-cry, "Guerral Oucrra ! u 
 cuchello ! " re.sounded through the remotest valleys, and was 
 eagerly respondtMl to from the surrounding hills. 
 
 The English fleet was then blockading tin; combined fleets 
 of France and S[)ain in the harbour of (.'adi/. The new turn of 
 affairs seemed to afford a fit opportunity of endeavouring to 
 disunite them, and to secure the one as allies and the other 
 as captives. With a view of ])romoting the success of this 
 enter[)ri3e, the services of our expedition were called into 
 play. On the 14th May, 1808, sudden orders were given 
 for our immediate end)arkation, and so complete were 
 all our arrangements, that in less than four hours 
 every man and all the baggage and provisions were on board 
 the transi)orts, ready to sail the moment the wind should 
 become fair. 
 
 On the evening of the IGth May, as the wind appeared 
 to be coming fair, our head-(piarter ship had unmoored, 
 and shortened cable as a preparation to be ready to 
 start, but it seemed that she had taken in too nuich 
 cable, as she dragged her anchor, and before it was ob- 
 served, she had drifted within range of the Spanish batteries 
 at Alge(jiras. They o[)eaed a sharp fire upon her ; she, how- 
 ever, escaped with little damage, only one large shot having 
 hit her, going through the quarter gallery. 
 
 The wind having come fair from the eastward, the whole 
 
 of the convoy got under weigh at daybreak on the 
 
 ibos.— ' 17th May. In passing from the bay into the straits, 
 
 Kxpedaiou , 
 
 BaiiM to many oi the transports got rather close to the 
 Spanish shore. The Spaniards, not being yet aware 
 whether our movements were of a friendly or hostile nature, 
 saluted us from their numerous batteries with showers of 
 round shot. Fortunately their practice was not very accu- 
 
10 
 
 rati!. Allliuu;^li we weii! so close that wo could see tho 
 iirlilli'vymon in the embiusurcs h)U(llii^ their j,nui8 ami point- 
 ing them at us, yet they did us no great daniugo. 
 
 We arrived otV Cadiz next day, the IHili May, and joined 
 tho blockading fleet under Lord Collingsvood and Admiral 
 Purvis. We stood oil' and on tor a day or two, and 
 were then ordered to anchor close inshore. From 
 our position wc could clearly see every ship of the enemy's 
 fleet, because, tVom their lying in the upper harbour, there 
 was ordy the low, narrow strip of land which nnites Cadiz to 
 the mainland between us and them. The cond>ined iluet 
 consisted of five or six French ships of the line, with some 
 frigates, under the command of Admiral liossilly, six Spanish 
 sail of tho line, and some frigates. 
 
 Jieing anchored pretty much inshore, many of tho inhabi- 
 tants came oil' to welcome us, shouting, " Viva, viva, los 
 Ingleses ! " and expressing most earnest wishes to unite with 
 England in driving the French from their town and country. 
 Hundreds of fishing boats now resumed their former occu- 
 pation. Their sharp, angular hitteen sails gave them tho 
 resemblance of an encampment on tho ocean. 
 
 The English Admiral and (Jeneral, taking advantage of 
 this favourable disposition on the jiart of the people, ruo Mar- 
 sent a flag of truce to the Governor, the Manpiess of suiano. 
 Solano, ofForing our friendly assistance and services. But he 
 declined all oveitures, asserting that he had no orders from 
 his government to treat with us. Hence it was universally 
 believed that he was in the French interest. The inhabitants 
 began to get impatient; they urged him to admit the English, 
 and to attack the French fleet, which was cooped up in the 
 inner harbour. He, hoNvever, resisted all applications. The 
 people became indignant ; a largo assemblage of them pro- 
 ceeded to his palace, and called loudly on him to come forth. 
 On his appearing at a balcony, they saluted him with cries of 
 " Peace with England, and war with France ! " In reply, he 
 pointed to the English fleet : " There," said he, " my friends, 
 there are your enemies," and he abruptly retivud, aujidst the 
 
20 
 
 groans and execrations of the multitudes. Tliey then dis- 
 persed for a time, but only to renew the attenijjt with 
 incioased vi^rour of combination. The Governor, notwitli- 
 ■standin^' what had occurred, liad the imprudence to attend 
 the theatre in the evening, but instead of being received 
 with the customary demonstrations of respect, the audience 
 remained seated in a sullen and foreboding silence. When he 
 sat down, he was assailed with loud cries of ""Traitor, traitor!" 
 which was continued during the ])erfoiinance. The unfor- 
 tunate Marquess retired as soon as he could decently get 
 away ; and on entering his house, he exclaimed to his wife, 
 " Dearest ]\Iary, I am a lost man ! " 
 
 Early next morning the mob, infuriated by his obstinacy, 
 rose en masse, and proceeding to his residence, in a tumultuous 
 manner demanded to see him. No one appearing, and their 
 request remaining unheeded, they, with the assistance of 
 cannon, forced an entrance ; but he and his family had fled. 
 The populace ransacked the residence, made a bonlire of 
 the splendid furniture, and left the place in tlames. It 
 appeared that, after sending his family to a place of safety, 
 the Marquess had made his escape by the flat roofs of the 
 neighbouring houses. The city was now in a terrible com- 
 motion — a decided re\'olution had commenced. The French 
 had retired on board their fleet, and put themselves into the 
 best position for defence that circumstances would permit. 
 INIeantime the mob was searching in vain all the houses in 
 the district to find the Marquess; and amongst other places 
 Tiw.Ti„.„i,„. the house of Mr. I'eter Strange, an Irish merchant, 
 ofcu.hz. ^Ijq Ijj^jI married a lady of Irish parentage, but 
 born and bred .;t Cadiz. This remarkable woman here most 
 strikingly evinced the possession of a more than ordinary 
 share of the generosity, address, and courage of her country- 
 women. She had actually concealed the unfortunate Governor, 
 but, with great tact and presence of mind, she had managed 
 to mislead the enraged i)opulace, and to dissuade them from 
 a search of the premises. On their retreat, however, 
 they were met by a carpenter, who exclaimed, " Have you 
 
21 
 
 not found the traitor ? " A tliousaiid voices shouted, " No, 
 no". "Then," said he, " F will." Aii<l iU'iM.rdiii'^Iy he ])]aced 
 hiiusi'lf ill. the head ot the infuriatt'd vahhle, (hivslinu' i'or the 
 blood of their devoted vietiui, and lie ro-condueted them to 
 the house of the iiohh; and devoted heroine. On an entry 
 bein^f Coreed, he iinuiediat(dy h'd tlieui to a certain chamber, 
 and, pointiuLi; to a particular panel, "There," said he, "there 
 he nuist be ; for I but a short time ago fitted up a ])lace of 
 concealment behind that s[)(it". jNIrs. Strange now exerted 
 all the eloquence that anxiety for the preservation of a fellow- 
 creature inspired her with to combat this statement, and induce 
 them again to retreat. But her efforts were . in vain ; they 
 had now more than suspicion to act upon, and became furious 
 for their ])rey. Some of the foremost, therefore, rushed 
 towards the panel. The noble woman instantly threw 
 herself before them, jdaced herself finnly against the wainscot, 
 and, stretching out her arms, boldly faced the assailants, and 
 presented her own body as a bulwark of defence to the lair 
 of the biiitcd Governor. The headh)ng career of the exas- 
 perated mob was not, however, to be thus checked ; they 
 pressed on — a bayonet was thrust through the arms of the 
 devoted lady ; and thus, literally pinned to the wainscot, she 
 continued her endeavours, by struggling a)id supplications, 
 to compel them to desist. Her magnanimous efforts, her 
 sufferings, were, alas! in vain. They drngged her from the 
 spot, and discovered the unhappy Marquess. All instnntly 
 pounced upon him like tigers ; a rope was put round his 
 neck, and they dragged him towards the niarket-idace for 
 summary execution. This disgrace was, however, spared 
 him ; for the maddened insurgents, after hurrying j,„,.,,c,.„f 
 him along for a short distance, commenced striking '^"''""'• 
 at him with their " cuchellos," or stilettos ; and, ere he got 
 half-way to the market-place, he fell jiierced with as many 
 wounds as were the nundier of haiuls that reached him. 
 
 Thus perished the Mariiuess of Sulano, Viceroy of Aiula- 
 lusia, Captain-General of the Province, and Governor of 
 Cadiz, a victim to popidar vengeance. When (quartered, some 
 
22 
 
 years after this event, at Cadiz, I frequently met the noble- 
 minded heroine of this tragic occurrence, both in private 
 society and at tlie ambassador's ])arties ; and often have I 
 seen the scar — the truly honounible scar — just above the 
 elboM', the eircct and evidence of the wound wliich she so 
 nobly received in the elVort to preserve the life of one bound 
 to her by no ties but the common bonds of humanity. And 
 prouder might she honestly be of that so unusual ornament 
 than of the most gorgeous armlet, rich in barbaric pearl and 
 gold, that ever graced an empress. 
 
 On the death of the Man^uess of Solano, Governor of 
 Cadiz, the command was assumed by Don Thomas de Morla. 
 
 As an instance how mucli every class of these noble people 
 felt the degraded state to which their country was reduced by 
 misgovernment, the following incident may be mentioned: — 
 A number of boats came daily from the shore to tlie English 
 fleet, laden with provisions, fruit, &c., for which a ready 
 market was found on board our vessels. One of these boats 
 was lying alongside of our ship, containing a man and two 
 A Spanish Smart boys, Avho acted as liis navigators, while he 
 merchmit. carried on the mercantile department. All on a 
 sudden an alarm was given that the boat was sinking. As I 
 was on watch at the time, I ordered the old man and all his 
 stock to be brought on deck. This was no sooner done than 
 the you). 5 rogues pushed off the frail barls, hoisted sail and 
 decamped. We then perceived that the alarm was all a trick. 
 In fact, the youngsters having got tired of waiting, pulled out 
 a plug in the bottom of the boat, and admitted water enough 
 to frighten the old gentleman. However, here he was left on 
 board, and it being then still doubtful whether we were the 
 friends or enemies of his country, the poor fellow was in the 
 utmost despair, not knowing whether he and his property 
 would be respected. Observing his state of mind, I said 
 nothing to him, but I ordered two boards to be placed on a 
 couple of barrels set on end near the quarter-deck. On these 
 boards he arranged all his fruit, bread, eggs, &c., like a stall 
 at a fair. I then placed the old trader behind his stall, and 
 
23 
 
 with cash in hand we all began to purchase from liim, payin^j 
 him (Tanjnit comptant. The amazement ami deli.uht which 
 he expressed were beyond description when he found tliat 
 not only was his stock fast disappearing, but that he was 
 equally rapidly pocketing ready coin. The soldiers entered 
 into the spirit of the thing, and bought up every article which 
 lie had. When I told him that he should be sent on shore by 
 the first boat that came off in the morning, his joy was com- 
 plete. He made himself quite at home, and became very 
 amusing, singing a variety of songs and dancing fandangos 
 and l)oleros. On entering into conversation with him, we 
 found that he was a very intelligent man. With much 
 I'eeling he described the state to which his country was 
 reduced by having been betrayed by traitors into the hands 
 of the French, and words could not express his indignation at 
 the trick by which his sovereign had been kidnapped. He 
 concluded by saying, "Oh, signer, somos bueno gente, pero 
 mal gobernado ! " — " We are a good people, but badly 
 governed ! " And he spoke the truth. 
 
 After the death of the INIarquess of Solano, the people 
 turned their fury against the French, who, seeing the 
 state of affairs, prudently retired on board their vessels. 
 The new Governor, Don Thomas de Morla, and the 
 magistrates of Cadiz, in compliance with the public wish, 
 immediately entered into friendly negotiations with our 
 Admiral, Lord Collingwood, and our General, Sir Brent 
 Spencer. The Spaniards separated their fleet from tlie 
 French, and stationed themselves at the entrance of the inner 
 harbour, so as to cut off all retreat. They then sunnnoned the 
 French to surrender, which they refused to do, but offered to 
 enter into a capitulation with the English, Having the 
 French now completely in their power, the Spaniards rejected 
 all terras, and demanded unconditional surrender, and even 
 declined the assistance of Lord Collingwood and the English 
 fleet. They took the guns, which had been pointed against 
 us, from the sea-walls, and placed them in batteries all round 
 the upper part of the bay, and the fleet and gunboats got 
 
24 
 
 ready for action on the lower side. The French were thus 
 lieninud in on all .sides. AVc were hcdd in readiness to land, 
 havinj^ three days' provisions cooked, and our arms and knap- 
 sacks prepared to step into Hat boats lying alongside of us. 
 Notwithstanding these formidable preparations, the French 
 admiral, Rossilly, gallantly determined not to yield without 
 a trial of strength in defence of his honour. While matters 
 were in this state, and we were eagerly looking out for theex- 
 lothjune pected signal to disembark, on the 10th June, soon 
 ^^^^- after midday, to our great surprise, a thousand pieces 
 
 of heavy artillery opened iire at once. The two fleets were 
 warndy engaged, while the mortars and gun batteries round 
 the bay i)oured a concentrated fire on the unfortunate French 
 fleet. It was a magnificent spectacle. We now beheld the 
 two fleets, which our navy had so long anxiously watched, 
 actually engaged in sinking, burning, and destroying one 
 another. As there was only a low strip of land intervening 
 between us and them, we had a full view of the combat. 
 Surrender Hard fighting coutiuucd without intermission until 
 at Cadiz. about eight o'clock in the evening, and was re- 
 newed occasionally on the two following days, when the 
 French, after suffering a most severe loss, and eight hundred 
 men, finally surrendered. 
 
 No sooner were the French vessels taken possession of 
 than the port was opened to us, and we were received with 
 acclamations of joy by all ranks, and our fleet was thus 
 released from a tedious and irksome duty. 
 
 General Morla, Governor of Cadiz, having received infor- 
 mation of the French forces under General Avril, requested 
 General Spencer's assistance. Our expedition immediately 
 received orders to proceed to make a movement against the 
 French army collecting at Tavira and Castro Marino, at the 
 mouth of the Guadiana, in the province of Algarve, with a 
 view of crossing the river and entering Spain at Ayamonte. 
 This force, under General Avril, had been despatched by Junot 
 to suppress any attempt at insurrection in the south, and to 
 move on Cadiz to join Dupont. 
 
25 
 
 We left Cadiz on the 12th Jinu\ 1808, and arrived on the 
 ]4tli at the mouth of tlie (Juadiana, whicli liovo ibriiis joj,, j„„g^ 
 thefrontierseparatingSpaiii from Portugal, Theohject ^**"*- 
 of our expedition was to makoa demonstration against the French, 
 and to cover and protect the Spanish insurrection for freedom, 
 which iiad just commenced at Ayamonte, tliat it 
 
 Ayuinoiito. 
 
 might not be obstructed or put down by tlie 1 rench 
 forces in Portugal in that neiglibourhood. As our troops 
 were in want of fresh provisions, the Spanish Governor, 
 anxious to oblige his new allies, promised to procure them 
 for us. Accordingly, the General commanding permitted 
 each ship to send a boat on shore. I had the good fortune 
 to be the officer sent in charge of the one from our ship. 
 But not being aware that the mouth of the Guadiana con- 
 sisted of several branches, and that the enemy was in im- 
 mediate possession of the Portuguese branch, we entered the 
 main channel. On passing a battery which connnanded the 
 entrance, we were challenged, But taking no notice we 
 pushed on and soon entered a branch on the Spanish side, 
 by which we reached Ayamonte. I then learned the escape 
 I had just made of being taken prisoner, as the battery we 
 had passed was occupied by the enemy. The other boats 
 had entered by a channel in the Spanish territory. We being 
 the first English who had landed in Spain since the breaking 
 out of the patriotic cause, were received with the most en- 
 thusiastic demonstrations of joy by the inhabitants, 
 
 mi • • 1 n 1 f«» • Party at the 
 
 The governor invited all tlie omcers to an entertain- Governor's. 
 
 , • 111 ■ \ 1 o 1 -M Spiiiiish 
 
 meat in the evening, and had provided tor us billets peopio mid 
 
 uiauuorH. 
 
 in all the best houses. The Spanish officers, both 
 of the army and navy, almost crushed us in their fraternal 
 embraces, and insisted on carrying us from house to house, 
 and introducing us to all the pretty ladies in the place. 
 These dark beauties gave us the most cordial reception, and 
 sang patriotic songs and warlike hymns, accompanied on the 
 guitar or piano. Some of the naval officers, who had been in 
 England, repeatedly sang " God save the King " and " Eule 
 Britannia". Their admiration of England's prowess seemed 
 
26 
 
 unaffected. In many houses we observed busts of Mr. Pitt. 
 Everyone extolled liini as the t^reatest mnii in Europe, and 
 they ackn()\vl('(lj,f('d Hint his policy was the wisest that could 
 have been pursued, and that his causing the Spanish ships of 
 war bearing treasure from South America to be intercepted 
 showed liis great foresight, although viewed by them at the 
 time as a breach of international law, because they admitted 
 that the whole of the money was destined as a subsidy for 
 France to be employed by Napohion against themselves. 
 The Governor's supper went off with great harmony. Mutual 
 toasts were given, and bumpers were drunk to the perpetual 
 union of the two nations. We took our departure next 
 morning amidst many regrets at our short acquaintance. 
 
 Ayamonte being biit a small town, and the market being 
 but scantily supplied, the number of pati'iots from the 
 neighbourhood then in the town made everything extremely 
 scarce, so that we were able to procure only a few vegetables, 
 fruit, bread, &c. The town was crowded with armed peasantry 
 of all ages, from seventeen to sixty, eager to enrol themselves 
 under the patriotic banner. There is no finer peasantry in 
 the world, they being a hardy race, of robust frames, sober 
 and active habits, high minded, and of generous dispositions. 
 They were armed with any weapons that they could lay 
 hands on : a few muskets, more fowling-pieces, some pikes or 
 poles with old bayonets stuck at the end, and many pitch- 
 forks. There was as little iiniformity in dress as in arms. 
 Yet, had these brave and resolute people been properly 
 directed under good ofticers — had all persons in authority 
 been as well-disposed in their country's cause, a formidable 
 Spanish army might have been organized. Unfortunately, 
 hihabiUntM froui the waut of experience and skill of the officers 
 
 oftowusnot . Ill •Ti • •, J • 
 
 patriotic. in command, and the pusillanmiity or traitorous 
 conduct of many members of the various provisional govern- 
 ments, and of the nobility, who, in order to save themselves 
 and their property, too often betrayed the cause of the people 
 by either publicly joining or secretly favouring that of the 
 invaders, the saddest disasters occurred. The dispersion of 
 
27 
 
 these now levies, and of whole armies, which afterwards took 
 place, attests the fact that the superior orders, notwithstanding 
 their boasted nice sense of honour and pompous gravity of 
 eliaracter, proved cipially destitute of abilities as of moral 
 courage. The inhabitants of towns likewise degenerated 
 after the first burst of patriotism. With a few brilliant ex- 
 ceptions, such as Saragossa and others, they succumbed to 
 whatever authority was in power — friend or foe. Indeed, 
 many of this class are a lazy, indolent set of beings, idly 
 lounging in the streets, basking in the sun by day, wrapped 
 up in their cloaks, smoking cigars, and gambling in the even- 
 ing. These seem to be their great enjoyments. Puffed up 
 with a 'false pride, tliey disdain to work. Few of the master 
 artizans are natives. The piincipal tailors are Germans, 
 watchmakers generally French, innkeepers Italians; and 
 there were many Irish ready for all work. Consequently, 
 numbers of this improvident race fall into dissolute habits, 
 become quarrelsome companious, and, being of warm tempers, 
 and all armed with cuchellos, constantly stuck in their sashes, 
 assassinations were frequent even at noonday. These evils 
 would appear to have originated in the immense wealth 
 formerly imported from South America, and the facility with 
 which fortunes were made there. The natives could thus 
 afford to supply all tlieir wants by importations from foreign 
 countries without any exertion on their own part. Hence 
 trade and commerce came to be neglected ; nor were there 
 manufacturers to employ the people. 
 
 The demonstration we had made had the desired eff'ect. 
 General Avril was comi)elled to make a hasty French 
 
 compelled 
 
 retreat towards Lisbon. The people immediately to retire, 
 rose in the province of Algarve on learning the arrival of the 
 British force at Ayamonte. General Maurin, who com- 
 manded in that province, unable to resist the hostility of the 
 people even with a force of nearly two thousand men, re- 
 treated to Mertola, abandoning his baggage, which fell into 
 the hands of the patriots. 
 
 Our expedition was reinforced by the arrival of some 
 
28 
 
 additional corps. We cruisod tor a f(nv days alone; the coast 
 Exiic.iitinii to Capo St. Vincent, and were rccidlt'd to Cadiz, 
 
 rotunis to 
 
 Ciiuiz. wlien the intelligence airivi'il that a lar<,'e French 
 
 force nnder Dupont had entered the Sierra Morena to invade 
 Andalusia. The whole of our troops were diseinharked on 
 aril July, the 3rd July at Port St. Mary's, on the ojiposite 
 ^^^- side of the town of Cadiz. We had the honour of 
 
 being the first l»ritisli troops who liiiided in the Peninsula. 
 Rocoption '^''^ Spaniards received us apparently with many 
 atcajiz. Difiri^ij of tVii'iidsliii) and gladness, shouting "Viva, 
 viva los Ingleses ! llonipez los Franceses!" But even at that 
 early period of the war, the higher orders seemed to entertain 
 a jealousy of our assistance and undervalued our services. 
 At this season St. Mary's, a reinarkahly neat town, was 
 particularly gay, being much resorted to by the fashionables 
 Society of Cadiz as a summer retreat and bathing quarter, 
 *'^°''"" and having a superb amphitlieatre for bull fights. 
 
 We saw, consequently, a great deal of society. There were 
 numerous tertidias — music and dancing parties. I had the 
 honour of frequently attending those of her Highness Donna 
 M. de Saavedra. This lady was of royal blood, and her 
 husband was at that period president of the grand junta of 
 Seville ; in fact, the head of the then Spanish government- 
 She had two very accomplished and charming daughters. 
 Thus, though then only a young subaltern, I had opportunities 
 of learning, and actually knew, more of what was going on in 
 the country than many of my seniors. 
 
 The unfortunate wife of that fortunate sycophant and 
 Madame uiiuion of the Quecu, Don Manuel Godoy, had 
 Godoy. taken refuge here after her husband's escape from 
 the popular rage at Madritl. She being a member of the 
 royal family, our guards had orders to pay her the honours 
 due to her rank on all occasions of her passing. It must 
 have been galling to her feelings to hear the scurrilous songs 
 sung in the streets, recording her husband's misdeeds. So 
 much had the Queen been infatuated with this man, and 
 so extraordinary was the confidence or insensibility of her 
 
2U 
 
 royal consort, that many couitiurs, wishinj,' to open his eyes, 
 would slip notes under his cover before dinner, disclosin<^ 
 facts, which he on finding would read, and then laughingly 
 toss them to her majesty for her edification. 
 
 From the extreme heat of the weather, wc could do little 
 else after early parade than pore over our Spanish Manners of 
 Kvaminars. Morning calls were not much the their dress 
 fashion, for in this climate the people rise early ments. 
 to enjoy the cool of the morning. The ladies first walk to 
 church ; and after brealvfast, which consists of a cup of 
 chocolate and a morsel of bread, washed down with a glass 
 of cold water, remain at home ; lounging generally in loose 
 deshabille, or seated in the Moorish fashion on mats, working, 
 or playing the guitar, until the dinner hour, which is usually 
 about two o'clock. Immediately after this, man, woman, and 
 child take a sicda for a couple of hours. The ladies then 
 adorn themselves for the amusements of the evening, which 
 consist in promenading, attending the theatre, tertulias, &c. 
 As the day declines, one sees the elegant forms of the pretty 
 signoratas slowly, but gracefully, pacing along, with erect 
 carriage, to their favourite public walk, they being always 
 in advance of their mammas or the old duenna, who follow 
 at a short distance behind. They still adhere to their 
 national dress, which is certainly unique, and most be- 
 coming, being well calculated to display the symmetry of 
 their persons to advantage ; and the fair Gaditanas flatter 
 themselves that they excel in dress, figure, and fortunes all 
 the rest of their countrywomen. Their pretty little Thc.siiy.i— 
 
 p... .... ,, ,. . iimutillii — 
 
 teet, m tight silk hose and the neatest slippers in ^m. I'.iii 
 
 ItiiiijUiiirG 
 
 the world, show advantageously under the black EiiucaUon. 
 "saya," always put on previously to going out over their 
 undress. It is of satin or silk, ornamented with flounces 
 of network, composed of black jet beads and silk tufts or 
 tassels ; the lower hem all round is loaded with small shot, 
 to keep it close to the figure. The bodice, which is likewise 
 richly trimmed with network at the shoulders and cuffs, where 
 there are gold buttons, is closely fitted on. Their fine dark 
 
30 
 
 hnir is tastefully dressed and adorned with choice tlowers, 
 having a iii^h comb inlaid with gold devices. Over this is 
 thrown the graceful white lace mantilla, so placed in the comb 
 as to leave the face and forehead bare. The flowing ends are 
 crossed in front of the chest, and held close by the left arm. 
 In the right hand is held their constant companion, the 
 fan, which they handle with a dexterity peculiar to them- 
 selves, playfully tossing it open, or shutting it with great 
 rapidity, or, at times, courting the gentle breeze by fanning 
 themselves ; at others, it supplants the parasol, being em- 
 ployed to keep off the sun. When closed, if they look at 
 you, and shake it, held upwards, it means "How do you do ?' 
 If held pointing downwards, "Come here; I want to speak 
 to you ". When in a rage they ilirt it open, and close it in a 
 hasty manner, to show their indignation ; in fact, they have 
 a complete fan language. They are unquestionably noble- 
 looking women, possessing, exclusive of elegant persons and 
 deportment, most commanding countenances, to which their 
 dark sparkling eyes give a fine expression. But although the 
 Sjianish ladies are of forms feminine and features delicate, 
 there is something masculine in their minds. Endowed with 
 undaunted spirit and great natural abilities, graced with 
 manner and address, enlivened with vivacity, ready wit, and 
 extraordinary nmsical talents, were their minds cultivated 
 with due care to more serious and useful attainments than 
 tliey generally are, they might be esteemed the most perfect 
 of their sex. But the system of their education is in most 
 cases very deficient. They become more eager to make a 
 disi)lay of their charms by showy appearance and ornamental 
 accomplishments than to attend to the duties of domestic life. 
 
 The patriots having assumed a red cockade, with the cipher 
 Cockades ^j worked upon them, woe to any man who ventured 
 to appear without one. The ladies took a pride in presenting 
 us with this national emblem, embroidered with their own 
 fair hands, as we had been ordered to put them above our 
 black ones. 
 
 We found this a very agreeable cantonment. The place 
 
81 
 
 was well supplied with all llie necessaries, aud with numerous 
 luxiuies, (if lite, at a reasonable rate. Being so near Xeres, wo 
 got excellent wines, and also a pleasant beverage, something 
 like cider, named agraz, made from iniripe grapes. 
 
 We were kept in constant readiness to take the field, and 
 were actually under orders to march in aid of 
 Generals KedinK and Castanos, when information army 
 arrived that they having surrounded Dupont's army 
 at Baylcn, in the Sierra Morena, the latter had capitulated. 
 
 Dupont and his army having become captives, there was 
 no further occasion for our services in this quarter; ii)tiij„i„_ 
 and more important operations being in contempla- ^artoMon. 
 tion on the shores of Portugal, the whole of the uiH^tn'uirks, 
 troo[)S were re-embarked on the 19th July, aud we tho/drco" 
 sailed next day. We were detained otf Cape St. Arthur "^ 
 Vincent some days by contrary winds. On the 31st "^ '''"*^' 
 we joined the ileet cruising otf Lisbon, and kept standing off 
 and on with them. On the 3rd August we 3rd August, 
 received orders to make the best of our way to ^'^°^' 
 Mondego Bay, to join tlie expedition which had arrived from 
 England uuder Sir Arthur Wellesley. After a pleasant run, 
 we came to anchor in iMoudego Bay on the evening f,^^ August, 
 of the Gth August. There we received orders to ^''"**" 
 disembark next morning. All was now bustle on board. 
 Animation shone in every countenance. Our anxious hopes 
 of being employed in active service were now about to be 
 realised. Everyone was employed in selecting the few 
 articles requisite for a campaign, and getting their heavy 
 baggage properly secured. This was effected with no small 
 trouble. A tremendous swell caused the ship to roll in the 
 most violent manner, and everything was slipping and flying 
 about. We got into flat boats soon after midday, but the 
 process of disembarkation became a tedious and dangerous 
 operation. Owing to the swell and dreadful surf, only a few 
 boats could approach the beach, where Portuguese fishermen 
 were employed in wading to meet them and conduct them to 
 the shore. During this we had to remain for hours tossing 
 
32 
 
 and roUinj,' about till our timo caino. Scveriil boata wore 
 upsot, auil one coutiiiiiin<^ a part of our Greuafliors lost arms 
 uikI overytliiny, and the niuu narrowly cHcapud with their 
 livt'9. It was late when wo roachtnl tho army oncamped on 
 the hoi'dits abovo the small town of Lavos. It wa3 so dark 
 that wo had some diiliculty in lindiu},' our tents ; and in 
 regard to food, notliing whatever could bo j,'ot, so we had to 
 cont((ut oursolvos with a morsel of ship biscuit and a <^las3 of 
 rum from our haversacks. Wo tlion wrapped ourselves in 
 our cloaks, and lay down on the benty grass, eagerly seeking 
 repose after our fatigues. Vain hope ! The orderly sergeant 
 disturbed our incipient slumbers by warning us that tho 
 army was to be under arms at two o'clock in the morning. 
 Accordingly, half-an-hour before that time, one of those 
 regular tornufutors of military life, another orderly sergeant, 
 nuide his ai)pearance to give us a hint that it was time to be 
 up. Our toilet was soon made : a comb for tho head, the 
 corner of a towel for the face, and a brush for tho cloak did 
 all that was ro(iuired. 
 
 On the 8th August, without a bugle sounding or the beat 
 8th Augiist, of ^ drum, which might have given notice to the 
 ^^^^' enemy, the whole army was soon under aruis. 
 
 There we stood steady and motionless until an hour after 
 sunrise. Wo now began to feel that wo wore seriously 
 entering upon the active duties and habits of a soldier's life, 
 and we were convinced that although a vigilant alertness is 
 at all times necessary, it becomes indispensable when in front 
 of a victorious and experienced enemy. 
 
 There is something most solenui and impressive in 
 beholding at the still hour of morn so many thousands of 
 bravo and determined men remaining in such silence. 
 There is something in this more than the bare routine of duty 
 of ordinary military life. Under sucli circumstances the 
 youthful warrior feels as if called into a new existence, that 
 he is about to open his professional career, and to take part 
 in events of the most animating kind. Tliis contributes to 
 inspire a martial ardour and exalted soutiments, with an 
 
88 
 
 en^cr hopo nf <listiii}];uishiiiif lilrusdf in tho patli of lionour, 
 Iciuliii'j: t(i liis DWii ailvaiut'inciit, und tu llu^ >^^hn\ and i^lory ot 
 liiH country. I''itti;4ii('s and (liuii^cis un; livM iis mai'^ht. Tho 
 m'oater the hanlships aiul privations, the more iniminont tho 
 risk, tho nioro (Iftorniinod is his rnsolution to enconntor thoni. 
 
 AUliou^ii our Humll army was at tho inonicnt hut litthi 
 exporicnrod in tlic jiractical art of war, jiarticnlarly on tho 
 fjrand scale- on whicli it was ahout to connienco, tho worM 
 did not ))roduce a (iner hody of men. Kvery corps was in tlio 
 highest .state of discipline, every iieavt jmssesscd undaunted 
 coura<j;e, ready to dare anythin;^, as tho result of the {glorious 
 campaign most fully proved. Tho regiment to wiiich I liad 
 the good fortune to belong was at tliis period ono of tho 
 finest in his Majesty's service, not only in point of members, 
 but from the (excellent system establislajd in tho corps. It 
 had attained a hi«^h piteli of perfection witli re[,'ard to dis- 
 cipline, training,', and int(>rnal economy, and these (lualitications 
 were put to tiie test during' several years' constant service in 
 the fiehl in presence of the enemy, and were maintained on 
 all occasions, as will be shown in tlie sequel. 
 
 From our division having landed the last, wo found that 
 every animal in tho neighbourliood had been purchased, so 
 that it was impossilde to get horses or mules to carry our tents 
 and baggage. Ouroflicers were therefore obliged to carry their 
 own haversacks, containing a few shirts, sl\)ckings, shaving arti- 
 cles, &c., witli their cloaks slung on their shoulder on one side 
 and a canteen of rum on the other. The people received us with 
 openarms. Theappearanccof ourbrave fellows, and suchawell- 
 appointed army, seemed to inspire them with great confidence. 
 
 The French army was supposed to consist of about 20,000 
 men, and, after deducting garrisons, there might bo about 
 15,000 to meet us in the field. 
 
 Our army began its first march in tho Peninsula on the 
 10th August, 1808, at 4 p.m. 
 
 But my hopes of glory were nearly being frus- Kxpeduiorr 
 tratcd. After marching about six miles, to my fromMon- 
 dismay I received orders to return with a party of 
 
34 
 
 the most weakly men, to strike the tents which hud been left 
 standing, and to have them packed and delivered over to the 
 commissariat, with further instructions that if I could not 
 get this done by next morning, I was to embark again with 
 my whdle party on board the transport. Knowing that it 
 was not my turn for detachment duty, I remonstrated most 
 strongly, but I was told that there was now no time to settle 
 such queations, and that I must instantly proceed. I lost no 
 time in returning. I liad the tents struck and packed them. 
 I impressed every country car I could lay hands on, and had 
 them loaded and handed over to the commissary. I instantly 
 recommenced my march to overtake the army, which by a 
 forced march I accomplished that evening. I considered 
 myself most fortunate in getting so well rid of an inglorious 
 duty, which might have deprived me of the chance of making 
 a first campaign and of shaving in its triuinplic Tlie Hon. 
 Lieutenant-Colonel Lake expressed liimself highly pleased 
 with the successful exertions I had made to rejoin the army. 
 I found the army encamped in a wood, but as our division 
 had no tents, they were in bivouac, or huts made of the 
 branches of trees. From my not being expected, there were 
 no preparations made for me. It was now too late to have a 
 hut erected for me, and not being able to find my cloak, 
 which in the hurry of moving I had left with an officer's ser- 
 vant, I was obliged to lay myself down at the foot of a tree, 
 without any covering whatever. Corporal Chambers ob- 
 serving me in this situation, very attentively took off his 
 jacket and begged leave to throw it over me, which, although 
 but a scanty covering, enabled me to recover from the fatigues 
 of the day by a sound nap. 
 
 The next morning, the 11th August, 1808, we marched 
 luhAusust, for Leiria, a small country town having a large old 
 
 I808.-Maroh ,_ . , ,i ■ . i i • • . 
 
 to Leiria. Moorisli castlc situatcu on a rocky emmence in its 
 soeuery. ccutre. We bivouackcd in an olive-grove situated 
 on a range of hoiglits in the rear of the town, which with its 
 ancient towers and steeples formed a most romantic object in 
 our front. Wc were now in the land of the vine and the 
 
■ 35 
 
 olive, which form the principal productions of the country. 
 The general features of Portugal are neither plain nor moun- 
 tainous, but rather a succession of undulating wooded heights, 
 with plains intervening, with often largo barren wastes, so 
 that the country in most parts, except in the vicinity of 
 towns and villages, seems as if it were only partially culti- 
 vated. The principal crop is Indian corn, with smaller 
 patches of wheat and barley. The extensive vineyards and 
 numerous olive-groves which cover the richest portions of the 
 land, the orange-groves, orchards, and gardens affording every 
 species of European fruit, give a varied and interesting aspect 
 to the country peculiar to itself. But however beautiful this 
 may be, it was very inconvenient to us, as we had positive 
 orders not to cut any olive or fruit trees; and there being no 
 woods of common forest trees in that particular part of the 
 country, we had no means of constructing huts, and having no 
 tents, we were deprived of all covering except the canopy of 
 heaven. 
 
 Every protection being offered to the Portuguese bringing 
 in supplies to the camp, we got bread, wine, and vegetables at 
 a reasonable rate. Ky this means, and our rations of beef, 
 &c., we contrived to make a tolerable mess. 
 
 At this place an unfortunate French commissary was 
 captured. Not being aware that we were in the vicinity, ho 
 came into the town to obtain provisions. He was surprised 
 by our men, and was brought in triumph into the camp. 
 
 The I'ortuguese army, 5000 strong, under the command of 
 General Bernardin de Freire, arrived at Leiria on 12th Aug.. 
 the 12th August, 1808. But Sir Arthur Wellesley, Army under 
 not having it in his power to supply them with Frciro. 
 provisions. General Freire declined to act with us. He 
 remained at Leiria, and gave us only about 1000 infantry, 
 about 400 irregulars, and some squadrons of cavalry. 
 
 About midnight there was an alert, the alarm being 
 given that the enemy was advancing. Our brigade Alarm, 
 was immediately under arms, and the outposts were ordered 
 to be reinforced. For this purpose two companies of the 29th 
 
30 
 
 Regiment, to one of wliich I belongetl, were sent as advanced 
 p\qnet. We were posted in an olive wood, with a strong 
 chain of sentries in front. However, notliing extraordinary 
 occurred, except that a few men of the Lisbon Polish 
 Guard, who had made their escape from the French army, 
 came over to us. We were relieved in the following even- 
 ing at a late hour. 
 
 Next morning, on the 13th, we marched and bivouacked 
 March to ^^ Cavicro, near Batalha, from which the enemy's 
 Uutaiha, advauccd posts had retired only a few hours pre- 
 viously. We had hitlierto seen but little of the Portuguese 
 people, and still less of their army, but about 200 of their 
 cavalry joined us here. 
 
 The following day we marched towards Alcobago, but 
 Aicoba(;o. soou after commencing the march the column 
 was halted. All the baggage and women were ordered to 
 remain in the rear. The peasants had given information 
 that an advance body of 2000 French were at a short dis- 
 tance in our front. When we had made tlie necessary pre- 
 parations we pushed on, and after a few miles of hasty 
 march, we passed a bivouac which the enemy had quitted 
 only an hour before. 
 
 We were soon afterwards formed in contiguous column 
 of brigade in a good position, while the cavalry and light 
 troops were feeling the way in front. The enemy, however, 
 did not choose to wait for us. We dashed after them, and 
 pushed them through Alcobago in such haste that they left 
 .11 the bullocks which they had killed, but had not had time 
 to serve out to the troops, and also some waggon-loads of 
 stores. As we hurriedly passed through the streets of the 
 town, the inhabitants hailed us with the greatest demonstra- 
 tions of joy, calling out, " Viva ! viva ! " and the ladies strewed 
 flowers upon us from the balconies. We were halted at a 
 short distance beyond the town, and from our position we 
 could trace the retreat of the enemy for a considerable 
 distance by the clouds of dust which they raised. 
 
 We found the heat very oppressive, and the only shelter 
 
37 
 
 I could find was under the shadow of a large spreading fig- 
 tree. Alcoba(^,o is a remarkably pretty town, having a royal 
 palace and one of the most magnificent convents in Europe, 
 all the monks being of noble fitmilics. They most liospitably 
 entertained all the general officers. So friendly were the 
 people disposed towards us, that on sending our servants into 
 the town to procure wine, they returned not only with the 
 canteens full of excellent wine, but they also brought the 
 money back, the inhabitants refusing to take anything from 
 them. The country in the vicinity is very picturesque and 
 well cultivated. 
 
 On the 15th we proceeded to Caldas. In the latter part 
 of the road we descended into a plain of deep 15th Aug., 
 sandy soil. There was on either hand a dark MarriTto 
 pine forest, which had a gloomy appearance. After ^'*'^'^- 
 passing through the town we bivouacked in a most luxuriant 
 vineyard. It was painful to be under the necessity of occupying 
 such a position, and to devastate for a time that which had 
 taken so much industry to cultivate. Caldas is a very neat 
 place. Many of the houses are built in the Italian style. It 
 is a most fashionable watering place, and possesses hot wells 
 and public baths, of wiiich we availed ourselves, and found 
 them most refreshing after our late fatigues. The principal 
 bath-room is a handsome building, and the bath is about 
 60 feet long by 20 broad and 3 feet deep. It has dressing- 
 rooms on each side. I entered the bath suddenly, and 
 without due precaution, and the water was so warm that it 
 made my pores bleed. 
 
 Soon after six o'clock in the evening of the loth, the 
 alarm was given that our outposts were engaged. 15th Aug., 
 Our brigade instantly turned out and marched off oufp^ts 
 to support them. When we had got about two '^"siiged. 
 miles, we met General Sir Brent Spencer returning. He 
 explained to us that a party of our 95th Kifle Corps had 
 pushed on too far, and had got into contact with the French 
 outposts, but that they Lad succeeded in driving the enemy 
 from the long aqueduct and the old Moorish castle of Obidos, 
 
38 
 
 of which they retained possession. Tlie 95th Regiment lost 
 fl lieutenant and some men in this afl'air. We retraced our 
 steps, and remained accoutred the whole night. 
 
 Next day the army remained perfectly tranquil. Two of 
 our men, who were caught in town against orders, were tried 
 by drum-head court martial, and punished. Colonel Lake at 
 the time telling them that they should not have the honour 
 of meeting the enemy, an event which was hourly expected. 
 
 Some thousands of Portuguese troops, under General Friere, 
 Gonerai ioiued US here. They were in a very inditFerent 
 joiiKid. state, and it could hardly have been otherwise, it 
 having been the French policy to disorganise the whole army. 
 
 On the evening of the IGth August I went on advanced 
 post duty. The outlying piquet consisted of fifty men, under 
 Major R. Egerton, Lieutenant Stanus, and myself. It was 
 posted in an open wood, with the chain of sentinels along the 
 outer edge. Stanus and I had to patrol each hour alternately 
 during the whole night. 
 
 Soon after daybreak on the 17th August all the piquets 
 17th Aug., were called in. We joined the army, \vhich had 
 Maroh^to already commenced its march towards Obidos, five 
 obidos. luiieg distant. We reached the plain in front of the 
 town and castle about eight o'clock. Here the whole army 
 was f(jrmed in mass, each brigade in contiguous columns of 
 battalions at half distance. While waiting in this order, I 
 saw an officer dressed in a plain blue frock-coat, a small low 
 cocked hat, and mounted on a white horse, quite alone, 
 without any attendant, coming up from the rear. He rode 
 up to a flank, seeming to cast a scrutinising glance over the 
 whole. He exchanged a few words with General Spencer, 
 and then passed on to the front. I then discovered that 
 this was Sir Arthur Wellesley, our commander-in-chief. 
 
 While we were in this position a careless observer would 
 not, perhaps, have noticed anything particular. He would 
 have seen the arms piled, and the men occupied as they 
 usually are on all occasions of a morning halt — some sitting 
 on their knapsacks, others stretched on the grass, many with 
 
39 
 
 a morsel of cokl meat on a ration biscuit for a plate in one 
 hand, with a clasp-knife in the other, all dohv^ justice to the 
 contents of tlieir liaversacks, and not a few with their heads 
 thrown hack and canteens at their mouths, eagerly gulping 
 down his Majesty's groji, or the wine of the country, while 
 others, whifling their pipes, were jestingly promising their 
 comrades better billets and softer beds for the next night, or 
 repeating the valorous war-cry of the Portuguese. 
 
 But to a person of rellecting mind there was more in this 
 condensed formation than a casual halt required. Prcpara- 
 
 ■ 1 1 •! tioiiB for 
 
 A close observer would have noticed the silence ^iittie. 
 and anxious looks of the several general officers of brigades, 
 the repeated departure and arrival of staff-officers and aides- 
 de-camp, and he would have known that the enemy was not 
 far distant, and that an important event was on the eve of 
 taking place. These reflections were the more impressive 
 owing to our gallant little baud of British Islanders being 
 placed in a most peculiar position by the then present state 
 of the Continent. By the despotic and selfish policy of 
 Napoleon, the ban of Europe was pronounced against us, and 
 not even a single ship in the utmost distress had a friendly 
 port whither it could run for refuge, from the cold regions of 
 the North Sea to the milder clime of the Mediterranean. In 
 despite of this proscription, we had audaciously forced our 
 way, and were now assembled in martial array in a foreign 
 land, ready to hurl defiance at the arms of France, which 
 held Europe as a camp armed at all points to resist us. 
 Whilst musing in this strain I felt the importance of our 
 situation. My breast swelled with honourable ambition, 
 proud to be one of the select number of British soldiers who 
 were first to meet the enemy in the Peninsula, Although 
 hitherto we had been precluded from opportunities of ac- 
 quiring the habits and usages of war on a large scale, yet we 
 felt undaunted, and we were all willing and ready to dare 
 anything against the foe, however much more experienced he 
 might be in the art of war. 
 
 Many officers, un observing our significant preparations, 
 
40 
 
 were led to form various conjoctures, because the enemy 
 liitherto had always retired before us as wo advanced towards 
 them. Our gaHant Colonel Lake, knowiuf; that I kept a 
 journal, and had a map of the country, asked me how long I 
 thought it would be before we readied Lisbon. I replied that 
 if the enemy continued to retire before us as they had done, 
 we would be there in three or four days. Some Portuguese 
 peasants coming up, I inquired if they knew where the French 
 were. Thoy one and all told nie that the enemy was only 
 about one league off, and that they thought they would wait 
 for us. Our surmises were soon cleared up. In a moment 
 the scene became most animated. An order was given for all 
 the women and baggage to go to the rear, and for all the 
 troops to stand to their arms. 
 
 The final dispositions for attacking the enemy having 
 been made, the army was put in motion. The only audible 
 order I heard given was by Sir Brent Spencer, who shouted 
 out, " Bring up four hundred of those ragamuffins here, and 
 let them march off to the right ". He meant our allies, the 
 Portuguese, who, poor fellows, had little or no uniform, but 
 were merely in white jackets, large broad-brimmed hats 
 turned up at one side, some having feathers, and others none, 
 so that they cut ratlier a grotesque appearance. We now 
 had every prospect of having what the army had so long and 
 so ardently looked for— an opportunity of meeting the enemy. 
 
 The army having broken up from the encampment at 
 irthAue Caldas at daylight on the morning of the I7tli 
 1808. August, 1808, was assembled in contiguous columns 
 
 on the plain of Obidos, where tlie liiial arrangements having 
 been made for the attack, the army was put in motion. Soon 
 after passing through Obidos the columns struck off into 
 different routes to reach the ordered points of attack. That 
 under General Ferguson went to the left, and General Hill's 
 to the right. The centre column proceeded on the main road. 
 The third brigade, consisting of the 29th and 82nd Eegiments, 
 under General Nightingale, was in front, and the 29tli the 
 leading regiment. 
 
41 
 
 We continued to niurch direct for the enemy, whom we 
 discovered apparently in tlu'ee colnnms, posted on an n,,ttioof 
 elevated plain beyond the village of JMunied, having """'?"• 
 the connnanding heights of Kolif;a at a short distance in their 
 rear. We made a momentary halt ; the men were ordered to 
 prime and loatl ; we moved forward throngh the village of 
 Mamed ; after crossing a bridge, formed line and advanced, 
 expecting to engage every moment. When we arrived at the 
 position where we first saw the French posted, we found they 
 had retreated. Their right was filing to the rear, masked by 
 a cloud of skirmishers, posted on some rising giound covered 
 with brushwood at the foot of the mountains, and warmly 
 engaged with General Fane's riflemen. Their left had retired 
 through the village of Columbeira, and occupied the heights 
 of lioli^a or Zambugeira, which ran in rear of and commanded 
 that village. 
 
 Our artillery took up a position near a windmill on an 
 eminence to the left of the village, which connnanded the 
 aforesaid rising ground, and opened a well-directed fire on the 
 enemy. 
 
 The 82nd Eegiment being ordered to another point of the 
 attack, the 29th broke into open column, and advanced in 
 column of sections through the village of Columbeira, led by 
 the gallant Colonel Lake. They were now much galled by 
 the enemy's sharpshooters from the heights, particularly from 
 a high pinnacle connnanding the village, and by a cannonade 
 of round shot on the left. It being observed that the regiment 
 was so much exposed, the left wing was ordered not to follow 
 the right through the village, but to niove round it to the 
 left, and hence it did not reach the entrance of the pass nntil 
 a considerable time after the right wing. The light company 
 of the 29th was also detached with those of the 5th and 82nd 
 Eegiments to make a demonstration on a pass farther to the 
 right. On leaving the village the right wing turned to the 
 left through some vineyards, and advanced along the foot of 
 the heights in order to gain the pass, exposed to a flank fire 
 the whole way, from which we suffered considerably. 
 
42 
 
 We now entc^red the pass, which was extremely steep, 
 imrrow, and craggy, being the (h'icd-up bed of a mountain 
 torrent, so that at some places only two or three men could 
 get n\) at a time. The enemy kept up a tremendous fire at 
 point-blank ui)()n us, to which not a shot was returned ; but 
 we kept eagerly pushing on as fast as circumstances would 
 admit. About half-way up there was a snuiU olive-grove, in 
 which we halted to form, and the men were ordered to take 
 off their haversacks, greatcoats, &c., which was done under a 
 continual shower of bullets. The pass turned again very 
 difficult ; we could only advance by tiles, but no disorder took 
 place, the men showing a laudable anxiety to push forward. 
 
 The farther we advanced the more the ravine receded into 
 the centre of the enemy, and numbers were now falling from 
 the continued fire on all sides. 
 
 Colonel Lake's horse was shot about this time, upon which 
 Major Way dismounted, and gave up his horse to the Colonel. 
 
 After clearing the narrow defile, we entered some open 
 ground, thinly wooded, under shelter of which the officers 
 lost no time in forming the men ; the whole then pushed for- 
 ward, and at last gained the wished-for heights ; but we were 
 now obliged, under a heavy fire, to take ground to the 
 right, previous to forming in line, in order to give room for 
 the rear to form as they came up, there not being at this time 
 above three or four companies in line, and these nmch re- 
 duced from casualities. When the enemy, who appeared to 
 have been lying down behind a broken earthen fence, which 
 ran rather in an oblique direction along our front, suddenly 
 rose up and opened their fire, their officers seemed to endea- 
 vour to restrain them, and apparently urged them on to the 
 charge, as we observed them knocking down the men's fire- 
 locks with their swords, but they did not advance. 
 
 Colonel Lake called out, " Don't fire, men ; don't fire ; wait 
 a little, we shall soon charge " (meaning when more companies 
 should come up), adding, " the bayonet is the true weapon for 
 a British soldier," which were his dying words, for, as he 
 moved towaids the left to superintend tlie line being pro- 
 
-i;J 
 
 longed, ha was iiiaiked and killed by a skirmisher (as will be 
 shown), and his horse ^'uUoped into tiie Frencii lines. 
 
 The riglit (in consi-queucc of his death), not receiving,' any 
 oiders to advance, opened their lire, and a desperate engage- 
 ment ensned. Some of the enemy in front of the extreme 
 right, either as a ruse or in earnest, called out that they were 
 poor Swiss, and diil not wish to fight against the English ; 
 some were actually shaking hands, and a parley ensued, during 
 which the enemy's troops, who had been posted on the side of 
 the ravine, finding we had forced it, and that they were likely 
 to be cut off, began to retire, and coming in tiie rear of our 
 right dashed through, carrying with them one major, who was 
 dismounted, as before stated, five officers, and about twenty- 
 five privates. 
 
 Owing to this accident, and the enemy continuing a 
 tremendous fire from all sides, being left without support or 
 a superior officer to command, and our numbers decreasing 
 very fast, lirevet-Major Egerton., seeing the impossibility of 
 making an el'fectual resistance, ordered us to fall back upon 
 our left wing, which was still in the rear. We accordingly 
 retired and got under cover of the wood. 
 
 On observing this the enemy set up a shout, and then, 
 but not till then, advanced upon us, as if with a view to 
 charge; some individuals on both sides got mixed, and had 
 personal encounters with the bayonet; they, however, did 
 not venture to press us, nor to follow us into the woody 
 ground, where we formed on the left wing, which had now 
 come up, being also joined by the 9th Kegiment (which was 
 sent to support the 29th when it was found that they were so 
 seriously engaged). The whole now rapidly pushed forward 
 and cleared the front of the enemy, who, after an ineffectual 
 resistance, were driven from their position. 
 
 The 29th were then halted, and on mustering the regi- 
 ment, there were found one lieutenant-colonel and one 
 lieutenant killed, two captains severely wounded, one major 
 and seven officers and 25 men prisoners, and 177 rank and 
 file lying on the field killed and wounded — making a total of 
 
44 
 
 214, excluaive of .several ofTicers wlio were hit, but were not 
 returned as wounileil. The whole of those taken prisoners 
 belonged to tlu; ',\n\ or 4th ris^ht coiupivnies, and not any from 
 the left win;,'. There were hut three ollicers remaining in 
 the right wing, of whom I was one. 
 
 That Colonel Lal<e was killed by a sharpshooter was 
 ascertained by the ollicers who were taken prisoners. There 
 were two brothers named Uellegarde, forming part of the 
 escort which conducted them to the rear. These brothers 
 were eagerly disputing which of them had the honour of 
 killing the Colonid, one declaring that he was lying under a 
 bush close to Colonel Lake, and deliberately .shot him while 
 he was giving orders and forming the line. The horse, as 
 stated, sprang forward into the French line, where he was 
 taken, and was afterwards returned to the regiment in the 
 most handsome manner by General Laborde, when we were 
 doing duty in Lisbon with the French army, previous to their 
 embarkation, in consequence of the Convention of Cintra. 
 
 To show that the regiment was not in disorder when we 
 arrived at the top, I may state that after clearing the wood 
 where we had re-formed, and were advancing in column of 
 sections, a ball knocked off the steel of a sergeant's halbert, 
 who was leading the section in front of me, which came fly- 
 ing backwards and struck Major Way, who, being dismounted, 
 was walking alongside. Soon afterwards, when we were 
 forming line, I saw his sword broken by a ball, whilst in the 
 act of waving it and cheering the men. When he was taken 
 prisoner, as before related, General Laborde gave him per- 
 mission to retain the hilt of his sword, in which a part of the 
 blade was still remaining ; however, the escort (who behaved 
 very brutally to him) afterwards made him throw it away. 
 
 We afterwards understood that it was not intended the 
 29th should have so soon attacked the strong pass, nor 
 penetrate so far as we did, but were merely in the first 
 instance to have occupied the village of Columbeira, and 
 make a demonstration on the enemy's centre, whilst General 
 Ferguson on the left, and General Hill on the right, should 
 
4fi 
 
 attack and turn \m flanks. By some mistake, howover, the 
 order was niisnndorstnnd, and our t^'allant (Jnlonol pushed on. 
 This account of the l)attlo of Jioli(;a, the correctness of 
 wliich can be established by the testimony of several oHicers, 
 I de.em sullicient t(j prove : — 
 
 I. That the 9th Jlegiinent did not force a separate 
 
 pass ; 
 II. That the 29th Regiment did not arrive in disorder 
 
 at the top ; and, 
 
 III. That the French did not break through the midst 
 
 of the regiment, slaying the Colonel and making 
 
 sixty [irisoners, as was asserted by Colonel Napier 
 
 in his History of the Peninsular War. 
 
 With regard to General Breunier's assertion, that he, with 
 
 only two companies, broke the 29th Regiment, I have to 
 
 observe that it may no doubt be true that he sent two 
 
 companies from his own left, but it ought at the same time 
 
 to have been stated that those com])auies could only have 
 
 come in su])i)ort of troops already defending the debouch of 
 
 the pass, and that ncuther they nor others broke through 
 
 the centre of the regiment ; because, at the time stated, it is 
 
 sufhciently proved that there were not formed more than the 
 
 remains of three or four weak companies, reduced by the 
 
 dreadful fire they had been exposed to, so that he would have 
 
 had no great achievement to boast of, even if correct. 
 
 While we were engaged in this desperate conflict, the 
 enemy's balls which passed through our ranks or over our 
 heads fell amongst the 9th Regiment, which was moving up 
 in our rear to support us. They, not being aware that we 
 were so immediately in their front, because the wood con- 
 cealed us from their view, some of their leading companies 
 opened their fire upon us, nor could this be stopped until 
 they had occasioned serious casualties in our ranks. They, 
 however, soon afterwards rushed up and formed upon our left. 
 We all dashed boldly on. The enemy gave way at all points. 
 They again attempted to make a stand at Zambugeira. We 
 continued to pursue them, but as our cavalry was not up to 
 
46 
 
 follow the pursuit, wc wv.ve at last onlmcd to halt, and 
 tlio ononiy contitiiicd tlmir retreat on the road to Torres 
 Vedras. Wo took uji a "^ood })osition. The army ro-forined 
 in order of battle, and we received orders to remain accoutred, 
 and ready to fall in at a moment's winning'. Strom,' ])i(iu(^t8 
 wore posted in tlio front and rear, and every precaution that 
 was necessary in the circumstances was taken. 
 
 The ba^fifage did not come up till late in the evening. 
 iiici.iuiitH ^^y servant had been -severely wounded by a ball 
 buttio of throuj^di his arm, so I had no one to do anythin*,' for 
 "" ^'*" me, and no means of cookinj,'. I was fain to 
 content myself with a morsel of cold beef and a ration liiscuit 
 which I found in my haversack, wrapped myself up 
 in my cloak, and lay down on the o[)cn heath, and slept 
 somully until before daybreak, when we stood to our arms. 
 The number of oflicers' servants who were hit in this action 
 was very remarkable, there being no less than fifteen amongst 
 the killed and wounded. Indeed, so close had been the 
 hand-to-hand fighting, that Private Millbank, servant of Cap- 
 tain Davie of the company to which I belonged, was found 
 lying opposite to a Frenchman, both killed by bayonet 
 wounds. Two soldiers of my company had been school- 
 fellows with me in tlie same Latin class at the Grammar 
 School of Aberdeen. One of them, Connon, lost his leg in 
 this battle, and the other, Boyle, was afterwards killed in 
 another engagement. One of the men who had been pun- 
 ished the previous day, scorning to remain in the rear while 
 his corps was engaged, gallantly broke away from the hospital 
 sergeant, joined his company, and fought most daringly 
 against the enemy. He escaped unhurt, while his lamented 
 Colonel, who, not twenty-four hours before, had told him that 
 he should not have that honour, was now lying a bloody corpse 
 on the field of battle. When we were moving on to the at- 
 tack, Captain Harding, of the Quartermaster-General's de- 
 partment, was riding with Lieutenant-Colonel Bradford, one 
 of the Deputy Adjutant-Generals, leading the column and 
 looking out for the enemy. The Captain observed a party of 
 
47 
 
 timillcurs posted holiind ft bank, in tho act of preparing' to 
 firo. Tie itnnu'fliatcly stoopcil (U)wii, sayinj?, " Tiik(i earn, 
 Bradford; they ans «,'t)in;,' to firo". Tlio Colonel, instead of 
 3toopin^^ raised liiuiself erect to look out whore they were. 
 At the same instant the enemy fired a volley, and six halls 
 pierced tho yallant Colonel's breast, while Harding escaped 
 
 unhurt. 
 
 On the morning of the 18th we stood to our arms about 
 two o'clock, and as the enemy had entirely disap- istUAinf.. 
 peared from our front, we received orders to march. ^'*"'*- 
 I was on the baggage guard. After having proceeded souks 
 miles, I was engaged in observing whether all the mules of 
 our brigade were keeping well together, when a bullet went 
 whizzing past my head. This shot caiue from the left fiaidc, 
 and must have been fired either by some party of the enemy 
 hovering on that flank, or by some of the peasantry. We 
 learned that we were not f(jll<jwing the enemy, but were 
 merely on the road to the coast to cover the disendmrkment 
 of expect(!d reinforcements. In the evening we bivouacked 
 at Louriidia, a small dirty village. 
 
 On the next day, the 19th, we proceeded to Vimieiro, a 
 small country town situated about a couple miles lothAug., 
 from the coast, in order, as we understood, to cover ^'*'^- 
 the disembarkmcnt of a reinforcement of troops under 
 Generals Anstruther and Ackland. The army was posted on 
 a circular chain of heights, which runs betwixt the town and 
 the sea, and then stretches eastward into the country. The 
 town is situated on a rising ground in front, having a flat low 
 space between it and the foot of the heights, on which were 
 placed the parks of artillery, commissary stores, bullock-carts, 
 oxen, &c. The whole had an imposing and picturesque effect, 
 particularly at night, when illuminated with the glare of the 
 camp-fires on the heights, and those of the artillery and stores, 
 surrounded by groups of soldiers and pf.'asants, drivers, and 
 others, in the low grounds, and the advanced guard beyond 
 the town. 
 
 Hitherto we had slept without any cover, because the 
 
48 
 
 woods wo had passed tlirougli were prinoijjall}' olivo-groves, 
 which we had positive orders not to cut down. Tiut there 
 being a fir-wood in this vicinity, many of the officers got huts 
 erected. 
 
 About eleven o'cloclc on tlie niglit of tlio 20th August the 
 Prcpara- alami was given tliat tlie enemy was advancing. 
 h!"ttwof"'° ^^^ ^^^^' "^lyi"n piquets were ordered under arms, 
 vimioiro. f^j^j j^ ijnrrade was (U'dered to occupy some heiglits 
 on our left, and the rest of tlie army lay down by their arms. 
 Nothing, however, occurred, and wo got a quiet nap. We 
 2istAugust, were on the alert an hour before daybreak on the 
 1808. 21st, and the expected reinforcement under General 
 
 Anstruther marched into the camp about six o'clock a.m., 
 after which we were dismissed. T ordered my servant to 
 have breakfast ready about eight o'clock, and then throw 
 myself down to get another nap. I was aroused about eight 
 o'clock by the bugles sounding the alarm, the drums beating 
 to arms, and the general cry of " Stand to your arms ", This 
 we accordingly did. I had just time to devour a morsel of 
 bread, and swallow a tin of bad tea, while the men were 
 falling in. We then observed a column of the enemy's 
 cavalry on the top of some heights about a mile in our front, 
 and moving to the left. 
 
 Our brigade, consisting of the 29th and S2nd Regiments, 
 under General Nightingale, were ordered to su]:)port the force 
 under General Ferguson, who was posted on the heights to 
 the left of the town, and towards which the enemy's column 
 was pointing. Our men were directed to leave their knapsacks 
 in the camp under charge of the quarter guard. 
 
 On reaching the foot of the heights the road was found to 
 be so steep and heavy that two companies of the 29th 
 Regiment were ordered to assist in dragging the guns up in 
 addition to the artillery horses. After gaining the ascent, the 
 29tb, being the leading regiment, moved along the edge of the 
 heights, which sloped abruptly to the valley below. After 
 advancing some distance we were deployed into line. From 
 this point we had a grand view of the country to our right 
 
49 
 
 below. We could difstinctly observe every movement made 
 either by our own riglit wing-, which was posted partly in the 
 town and alonp; a rising ground to a wood on the extreme 
 riglit, or those made by the enemy, then forming preparatory 
 to their grand attack, while the light troops and riflemen 
 were warmly engaged. 
 
 It was a most inspiring sight to see the enemy advancing 
 to attack. They wore formed in two lines, the ^^^ttioof 
 second supporting the front one. Tiiey moved with vimioiro. 
 great rapidity and admirable regularity, pushing on in the 
 most gallant and daring manner, apparently making a dash 
 to force our centre. It had been thought that the first attack 
 would have be-^n made on the left, where we were, and every 
 preparation had been made accordingly. Sir Arthur Welles- 
 ley and General Spencer were riding through our ranks, but on 
 their observing that the centre was attacked with such vivacity, 
 their attention was turned to that point, particularly when it 
 was found that a column of the enemy emerging from a wood 
 was attempting to penetrate down the valley which separated 
 our heights from the town and our right wing. General 
 Spencer exclaimed, " Can nothing be done to save the centre?" 
 He immediately ordered the Grenadier and another company 
 of the 29th Eegiment, whose right rested on the verge of the 
 height conmianding this valley, to retire to the rear, and 
 brought up two or three pieces of artillery, which opened a 
 well-directed fire. This, with the imposing attitude of our 
 right companies, effectually checked the column of the enemy, 
 who would have been exposed to a flank iire had they 
 persisted in advancing. They went to the right about, and 
 retired in haste. While watching with intense interest the 
 progress of the enemy's attack on our centre, we observed a 
 party of the 43rd Light Infantry stealing out of the village 
 and moving behind a wall to gain the right flank of the 
 enemy's lines, on which they opened a fire at the moment 
 whei) the enemy came in contact with our troops in position. 
 The French had been allowed to come close, then our 
 gallant fellows, suddenly springing up, rapidly poured on them 
 
 4 
 
two or threo volleys with great precision, and rushing on, 
 charged with the bayonet. We soon had the satisfaction of 
 seeing the enemy broken and retreating in the utmost haste 
 and disorder, closely pursued by our small force of cavalry, 
 under Colonel Taylor, whu made a brilliant charge, in which 
 he fell. About this part of the action I first observed Sir 
 Harry Burrard making his appearance. He had just disem- 
 barked, and assumed the conmuind. 
 
 Scarcely was this victorious achievement and repulse of 
 the enemy accomplished by the right wing, when we on the 
 left wing were attacked witli great vigour. The enemy at- 
 tempted to turn the extreme left of our lines, so that the 
 29Lh Ilegiment, being on the right, had at first little to do. 
 Eut the light companies of the 2'Jtli, 82nd, and -lOth liegi- 
 nients were warndy engaged in skirmishing close in our 
 front. Our men were ordered to lie flat down on the 
 ground, yet we lost a considerable number. We found it 
 rather difficult to keep the men still, as they were impatient 
 to get forward, particularly as they were under a galling fire, 
 and were not allowed to return a shot. We at length received 
 orders to advance against a column of the enemy. Their 
 artillery opened a very sharp fire upon us, but as our line 
 was descending, they did little execution, although every 
 shot passed close over our heads. On our approaching the 
 enemy we were not allowed to tire, but we marched steadily 
 on, ready to charge. They began to waver, retired some 
 distance, and fired about. But on our continuing to push 
 on, they rapidly retreated before we could close with them, 
 and abtindoned all their guns. 
 
 We were then halted, and as the enemy appeared to have 
 gone completely off, our men were allowed to stand at ease. 
 While resting in this manner we suddetdy observed a column 
 of the enemy, which, it seems, had remained concealed in a 
 village on the opposite heights, make a dash down as if they 
 meant to attack us, while a body of cavalry at the same time 
 appeared on our right flank, threatening to turn and attack 
 us in that flank. We were instantly ordered to form four 
 
51 
 
 deep, which formation afforded the advantage of showing a 
 front to meet the enemy in line, and at the same time of 
 sufficient strength to resist cavahy. On the enemy ap- 
 proaching the low ground a destructive lire was opened 
 upon him by the 71st liegiment, and the light companies 
 of the 29th and 8th liegiments, which had been lying 
 there concealed by the willow beds and bushes, unknown 
 to us, much less to this column of the enemy, who, after 
 returning an irregular fire, broke and fled in the utmost 
 disorder up the hill again to the village. Our artillery 
 opened a well-directed fire upon them, and we belield the 
 poor fellows scampering off in all directions to avoid the 
 shot and shells continually falling amongst them. They 
 made an attempt to rally in the village again, but our 
 guns made it too hot for them, so they continued their 
 fliglit right over the hill, and disappeared from our view. 
 The cavalry, wliicli had threatened us, on observing the 
 discomfiture of their infantry, rapidly retired. This was 
 the last expiring effort on the part of the French that day. 
 We afterwards observed the shattered remains of their various 
 columns concentrating again at a point nearly two miles off. 
 We now learned that our right wing had been equally suc- 
 cessful, and had defeated the enemy. From tlie description 
 of this battle it will be observed that, from the nature of the 
 ground, it consisted of two distinct actions, both fought 
 nearly at the same time, and about a mile or two apart. 
 
 While we were still halted on the field of battle, I saw 
 Sir Arthur Wellesley shake hands with General incidents of 
 
 T-1 • ^^ , > •. t'"^ battle 
 
 lerguson, sayuig, "lerguson, we have liad a ufvimidi-o. 
 glorious day. Your brigade — the 40th, 71st, and 91st 
 Kegiments — has done wonders. Now I am ready." We 
 all, of course, expected that we would instantly move on 
 to follow up our victory, and prevent the defeated foe from 
 rallying. All were disappointed that we remained inactive. 
 Even tlie private soldiers were making remarks, saying that 
 they wondered that the General did not go ou, and that they 
 were never in better humour for a brush or in better fiohting 
 
52 
 
 trim. Tlie knapsacks had been left in cam)), and wo were in 
 proper li^dit order for a pursuit, and had marched only a 
 short distance, whih^ tlic French had been marching the 
 whole of the previous niglit, and were heavily laden, every 
 man being dressed in long white linen frocks — their shakos, 
 pouches, &c., covered with the same material — and their 
 uniform coats being strapped outside their knapsacks. 
 IMoreover, several men of each company had to carry large 
 mess-tins, and others cooking-kettles. 
 
 After resting some time on our arms, we marched back to 
 our bivouac, with bands playing and colours flying. It was 
 anmsing to see many of the French soldiers who had been 
 taken prisoners, or who had come over to us, marching along 
 Avitli our men, with shouldered arms and fixed bayonets, 
 apparently in the greatest good humour, and all expressing 
 anxious wishes to be sent to England. Two genteel-looking 
 young men who were among the prisoners told me that they 
 were conscripts torn from their liomes, and that when their 
 regiment gave way they threw themselves down, pretending 
 to be wounded, in order that they might fall into our hands. 
 
 Fatigue parties having been left to bury the dead, many 
 of our men had possessed themselves of the French white 
 linen frocks ; and it was grotesque enough to see Highland 
 soldiers strolling about the bivouac in these dresses. The 
 field of battle after the action presented a curious feature 
 from so many lying killed and wounded. There were 
 quantities of letters and papers strewed about in all 
 directions. I picked up a bill for several hundred francs 
 payable in Paris, from which it appeared that the poor 
 fellow who had owned it had gone as a substitute, and 
 had received this bill in part payment. Many of the 
 letters were from parents and friends, but not a word of 
 politics was to be found in any of them. 
 
 We afterwards understood that the reason we had not 
 wiiythc followed the defeated enemy was owing to orders 
 of'viiuiciro from Sir Harry Lurrard. Sir Arthur Wellesley 
 followed up. had intended that, as the enemy had fled in au 
 
53 
 
 easterly direction, part of our army should have marched 
 by their right to the south-west, and tluis {^aiu the pass of 
 Torres Vedras before the French, so as to cut off their retreat, 
 while he with the left wing should continue to follow up the 
 enemy, but Sir Harry Burrard said we had done enough for 
 one day, and that it might be imprudent to push on too 
 hastily. We were all convinced that had Sir Arthur 
 Wellesley been allowed to execute his plan the most splendid 
 advantages would have resulted. 
 
 In this battle the GOth Ilillenien, who were all Germans, 
 showed great tact in taking advantage of tlie ground, lucidont.s. 
 and dexterity in the use of their arms. General Fane, who 
 commanded the light troops, o))serving one of these men 
 successfully hit one or two French ollicers who were gallantly 
 exposing themselves in front leading on their men, exclaimed 
 in the excitement of the moment, " Well done, my fine fellow ! 
 I will give you half a doubloon for every other one you bring- 
 down." The man coolly loaded again, fired, and hit 
 another, then looking at the General, he said gravely, " J>y 
 Got, I vill make my vortune ". 
 
 We stood to arms next morning, the 22nd August, as 
 usual from before daybreak until an hour after 2L>n(iAiig., 
 sunrise. After this, I, with some other ollicers, ^^'^^' 
 went to bathe. We passed through a ravine leading through 
 the heights on which we were encamped, towards the sea. 
 Through this ravine runs the small rivulet Vimieiro, on whose 
 banks are some ancient Koman baths. On our return we 
 strolled into the park of artillery, to look at the French guns 
 which had been captured on the preceding day. We were 
 remarking on the uncouth appearance of their material — the 
 heavy carriages of the guns, the long, narrow, cohin-looking 
 tumbrils, the miserably made harness with rope traces, the 
 large collars and broad wooden hems, and the small, punchy, 
 rough, heavy-heeled horses — and wondering how with such 
 clumsy gear they had kept up such a dreadful lire on us, 
 when we suddenly observed several men and ollicers running 
 past us as if they were mad, shouting out, " Stand to your 
 
54 
 
 arms ! stand to yonr firms ! The French are arlvancing." We, 
 of course, sLarted off to our camp in doulilc time. There we 
 found all the troops getting- under arms. The wliole were 
 soon formed up, ready to meet any foe. We hastened to 
 occupy the same positions on the heights which we had done 
 during the l)attlo tlie day before, and were all eagerly looking 
 out for the enemy, but none could be discovered. After 
 some delay we received orders to march back to our bivouac. 
 It proved to liave been a false alarm. This arose from a 
 party of French cavalry having approached our advanced 
 guard bearing a flag of truce, and escorting General Kellerman, 
 who was sent by Marshal Junot to propose an armistice. 
 
 In the afternoon it was announced that Lieutenant-General 
 Sir Hew Dalryniplc had arrived, and Avas now the commander- 
 in-chief of the army, so tliat within twenty-four hours we 
 had three different commanders. It began to be whispered 
 in camp that the Frencli wished to make terms with us. 
 Being anxious to learn if there was any truth in these 
 reports, I went into Vimieiro, and, sure enough, while standing 
 in the street near the liead(piarters, I heard a staff-officer, 
 who had just come out, exclaim to some of his friends, " Well, 
 Armistice, it is all ovcr ; we sliall have no more fighting". 
 The army did not nmcli relish this news, all being Hushed 
 with the recent victories. The officers were excited with the 
 hopes of reaping more laurels, and gaining promotion ; and 
 the soldiers looked fc^'ward to the prospect of getting more 
 booty. Many of tliem, particularly the light troops, had 
 acquired rich prizes taken from the enemy. Indeed, every 
 Frenchman who was killed or taken prisoner had a good 
 supply of plunder either in money or plate, taken from the 
 Portuguese. Tliey liad not spared even the sacred vessels 
 used in the churches, remains of which were found in their 
 knapsacks bruised or broken up. All ranks and degrees of 
 our army anticipated, moreover, a considerable amount of 
 prize-money, from the immense treasures which it was well 
 known that the Fren(.h had amassed by the contributions 
 exacted from the Portugese. 
 
55 
 
 Several delays occurred in tlie nepiotiatinn of tlie proposed 
 armistice, and it was tlion^lit tliat the French wislied o.^ni Aug., 
 to gain time. On the 23rd Aunnst we marclied to i?;,^^,, 
 Ramalhal. We hivouacked on some sterile J''^'"'''''^'i- 
 heights, covered with heath and struggling clumps of pinc- 
 trees, wliicli, being of little value, we were allowed to cut 
 down, and to hut ourselves in a proper manner for the first 
 time. The men's huts were laid out in strecits like a regular 
 encampment, and those of the officers in a line along the rear, 
 but tliese frail wigwam abodes not being waterproof, we got 
 completely drenclu>d during the night by a thunder-shower 
 and heavy rains. Our only resource was to get up and stand 
 in our cloaks round large fires. 
 
 On the 28th August we marcihed to Torres Vedras, and 
 were encamped on some heights on the north of the .,g„, ^^^^^ 
 town. Torres Vedras (glass towers) is a small old xonx^'^" 
 town, with an ancient ]\roorish castle, situated on a ^*^'''"*'- 
 round height in the middle of a romantic valley, sur- 
 rounded with hills, ornamented with wood. A rivulet 
 meanders through this vale, and passes close under 
 the town, where tliere is a bridge. This was the line of 
 demarkation between us and the enemy, who occupied the 
 lieights on the other side of the place. 
 
 I proceeded towards the town with several other officers 
 with the view of purchasing some of the good things of this 
 life. On arriving at the bridge we were stopped, and were 
 prevented from entering the town by a sentinel. ^ nigijiund 
 He was a Scotclnnan, one of the gallant 92nd ^"'^''y- 
 Highlanders. No art or persuasion would induce him to 
 1( ' us pass. We were returning grumbling and growl- 
 ing, when we happened to meet the quartermaster of 
 the 92nd Eegiment. On learning our dilemma, he assured 
 us that he would manage that we should get over the bridge. 
 So wheeling about we followed him up to the sentry, w^ho 
 again peremptorily ordered us to halt. The following dia- 
 logue then took place : — 
 
 Quartermaster — " Oh ! how is this, Donald ? " Sentry — " Ye 
 
56 
 
 mannnu pass ! I ha'c orders to lat naebody ^M\<f by ! " Quarter- 
 master — " JUit I am tlu! (^luu'Ua'inaster of your ro,[,nincnt, and 
 I must get over to get things required for the corps". Sentry 
 — "Oh, weel, sir, I canna hel)) it; J maun obey my orders — 
 nae person to i)ass the Ijrig ". 
 
 There was no disputing with the sturdy Highlander. How- 
 ever, seeing his quartermaster rather puz/led, the sentry gave 
 a significant glance to some sto])ping-stones lower down the 
 river, and slyly ^\llispered to him, " I ha'e nae orders to stop 
 fouk gaein' that gait". Accordingly we took the hint, and 
 visit to niade the best of our way across the stones into the 
 vodnw. town, where we found but little to recompense us 
 for our trouble. INIost of the houses and shops were closed, 
 and few people were to be met with in the streets. It 
 appeared that the inhabitants, seeing two hostile armies on 
 either side of them, i'eared that the jdace might become the 
 scene of a bloody struggle. Such, however, was not to be the 
 case. We learned from a stall-otlicer the reason why the 
 sentry on the bridge had orders to allow no one to pass. In 
 consequence of the armistice, Torres Vedras was by mutual 
 agreement not to be occupied by the troops of either party, 
 but to be held as a neutral place. 
 
 Wishing to procure a Portuguese grammar, I was looking 
 out for a bookseller's shop. At last I descried something like 
 one. The place ajtpearcd to be fdled up with a counter and 
 shelves all round, iilled, apparently, with books all bound in 
 parchment. On entering I observed an officer in the uniform 
 of the quartermaster-general. He had his back to the door, 
 and was reading a paper. I waited for some time, thinking 
 that the shopman had gone into a back room, and would soon 
 appear. The officer, however, on turning and observing me, 
 very politely begged to know if I wished for anything. On 
 my explaining that I thought it was a bookseller's shop, 
 he laughed and said it was a lawyer's office, which he 
 intended to convert into the quartermaster-general's office, 
 and was waiting for his clerks and paper. This was 
 Lord . 
 
57 
 
 On the 31st August wo moved to Sobral <lo Monte Ovrecn, 
 a small neat town. Having .^ono into the town, 3,,tAug.. 
 I observed a l)attalion of the I'ortuguese Police li'l'^.'.iTto 
 duavds, who had made their escape through the ^S''" 
 French army from Lisbon, march into the public ^''"^™- 
 square. They formed line, and on my going in front to look 
 at them, the commanding otiicer opened ranks, and ordered a 
 general salute. On observing that there was no general or 
 other superior ofHccr on the ground, I enquired at a Portu- 
 guese fidalgo standing near me why they had saluted. He, 
 to my no small surprise, informed me that the honour was 
 meant for me and some other oHicers, as being English. 
 
 The French rear-guard was still close in our front. One of 
 tlieiv piquets, not having leceived proper orders in regard to 
 the armistice, took post in advance rather too close to one of 
 ours. Our piquet rather hastily drove back the French one, 
 but fortunately without loss on either side. 
 
 On the 2nd September we marched towards Bucelles, 
 but on learning that the French rear-guard had „ , „ . 
 
 c a 2nu Sept., 
 
 not yet evacuated the place, we were halted on [o^bucoUm'* 
 the heights above the town. While we were 'Ajftonio^do 
 waiting in this position, we were rather surprised '^"^"^' 
 at hearing what appeared to be a sharp firing, and we 
 were led to imagine that some misunderstanding had 
 taken place with our advance guard. However, we soon 
 learned that it was only the I'ortuguese inhabitants, who, 
 as soon as the French had marched oft', began firing pistols 
 and letting off rockets, in rejoicing for the event, and to 
 celebrate our entry into the town. "We soon afterwards 
 moved on, and passed through the place amidst the cheers 
 and warm congratulations of the inhabitants. We continued 
 our route to St. Antonio de Tozal, near which we bivouacked. 
 St. Antonio de Tozal is a very beautiful village, adjacent 
 to which is the country palace of the Patriarch of Lisbon, 
 situated in pretty grounds, with very fine and extensive 
 gardens. There is also in the vicinity a Moorish aqueduct. 
 This place affords a most desirable sunn,. or retreat for the 
 
58 
 
 citizens of Lisbon, niul we were inforniod thnt in fonnov times 
 many English i)eoplo who canio to Lisbon fur their health 
 resided here. 
 
 The ground on which we were bivouacked was open, and 
 y„o,, liad not even a tree for shelter. However, in rear 
 
 fluiirtors. qI" y^j^, ].(3gini(»ijt tlicrc Were fortunately some wind- 
 mills. My captain, Davy, and myself took possession of one 
 of them, and a capital quarter it made. This was the first 
 time I had slept under any sort ol" cover since we had taken 
 the field. Being in a fine part of the country, we were i)lenti- 
 fuUy supplied witli all sorts of jirovisions and wine, so that 
 we lived remarkably well. A soldier brought us one day a 
 very fine turkey, which he offered for sale at the low price of 
 eighteenpence. As his character was not particularly good, I 
 had my doubts about his having come by the turkey honestly. 
 He swore that he had bought it at a village not far off, so 
 away I marched him, turkey and all. On entering the village 
 we found all the people in great commotion, and a crowd 
 assembled round an old dame, who with loud vociferations 
 was detailing how she had been ])luii(ler(!d, and lamenting 
 the loss of her darling bird, the carei'ul motluu- of a numerous 
 young progeny. To her surprise, and to the delight of all the 
 villagers, the valued bird was restored safe and sound. All 
 were astonished at getting redress in so satisfactory a 
 manner. The soldier looked \'ery blue ; so strictly were 
 the orders against plundering enforced that he was tried, 
 convicted, and punished before sunset that evening. 
 
 During the respite we had from war's alarms, the un- 
 convention toward Coiiveution of Cintra was in progress, and 
 of cmtw. ^yg ^.gj,g rather impatient to know the result. One 
 day all the officers of our regiment who had been taken 
 Officers prisoners at the battle of Eoliga returned into camp, 
 Roii"a"* having been released in consequence of the Conven- 
 roieased. ^^^^ haviiig bccu auiicably concluded. Civilities 
 began to pass between the two armies. One day I saw a 
 French dragoon riding through our camp as if he had been 
 in his own, He had come with a present of fine tea to some 
 
59 
 
 of our c^enerals. On oxaniininf,' his iirms, I found that his 
 carbine was of English nianufactiiro, and was niuikud 
 
 "Tower". 
 
 Our oflicers who liad boon prisoners told us some of their 
 adventures duriii",' their captivity. When they were taken 
 l)risoners a French sohlier made a tlirust at Lieutenant 
 Lan-'ton willi his bayonet, which fortunately hit the buff 
 sword-belt. He was about to repeat tiie thrust when a 
 French olhcer knocked up tlie bayonet with his sword, and 
 thus saved Langton's life. Wlien our ofUcers were conducted 
 to Oeneral DelabonU;, ho very courteously said, "Gentlemen, 
 now that you are prisoners, we are no longer enemies". Major 
 Way, who retained tiie hilt of his sword in his hand, only a 
 few inches of the blade remaining, the remainder having been 
 broken off by a musket-shot, requested the General's permis- 
 sion to retain the hilt, which was very })olitely granted. The 
 prisoners were ordertul to proceed to Lisbon. Among the 
 escort who attended them were two brothers named Belle- 
 garde, one a soitfs-officier and the other a private. Both laid 
 claim to having had the honour of shooting our gallant 
 Colonel Lake. The sous-officier insisted that it was he who 
 did it, and that he was lying behind a bush, and when the 
 Colonel was in front of his men superintending the forming 
 of our line, he had a fair opportunity, and shot him through 
 the body; and when the Colonel fell, his horse, "Black Jack," 
 sprang forward into the French lines. Some of the escort 
 afterwards made Major Way tlirow away the hilt of his 
 sword, which annoyed him very much. 
 
 The French, to intimidate the Portuguese, gave out every- 
 wliere that they had defeated the English, and they paraded 
 the prisoners in great triumph tlirough Lisbon. Marshal 
 Junot, dreading that the Portuguese would learn the truth 
 from the prisoners, ordered them to be confined on board 
 the Russian fleet, then lying in the Tagus, so as to prevent 
 all communication. However, on his return to Lisbon, after 
 having been defeated at Vimieiro, the Marshal was very 
 civil to them, and invited then to dinner every day, taking 
 
GO 
 
 caro to send cnrrinj^os for thein, and to smul tluMii hack in 
 the same munncr in the ovcnini:'. He lived at free inmiters 
 ill ^'orgoous stylo in the si)len(liil |i;dnce of r.aron (^)ueiitillGS. 
 Every luxury was thoro to bo found. On one oecaHion one 
 of our ollicors remarked to another, " What a capital dinner 
 this is. It wants only a glass of Knglish ])orter for our 
 checso to make it perfect." This was overheard l)y a ser- 
 vant, who to their surprise said, " i'ortcM", ))oi'ter ! Would you 
 like some?" and ho (piickly hrought tlusni sonic uxcellont 
 browp st(jut. 
 
 With our oflicers also came haek Lieutenant Wills of the 
 Engineers, who had been taken ))iis()ner at the battle of 
 Vimiero in a most absurd way. Ho was acting on the staff 
 of General Anstruther, and al)out the time the French 
 infantry were giving way, he was directed by the (lenoral 
 to go to the Portuguese cavalry, then on the right, and toll 
 them to advance. Ho instantly rode olf; but being very 
 short-sighted, on observing a body of cavalry a little in 
 .advance of the right, he dashed up to the commanding 
 ofRcer and delivered the order to advance in French, which 
 language was then used as the medium of communication 
 with the Portuguese army. The French otUcor coolly re- 
 plied, " Ah, oui, monsieur, mais on attendant vous etes mon 
 prisonnier," while at the same time our poor lieutenant 
 descried several pistols pointed at his head by the French 
 soldiers. To his utter dismay he found out that he had 
 gone up to a body of the enemy, in whose hands he remained 
 a prisoner. 
 
 About this time the 79th Regiment, which had recently 
 Arrival of finivcd, marcliod into our bivouac. I went with 
 ulfgLiiwit some officers one morning to look nt them. Their 
 Cameron colouel, old Sir Allan Cameron, whose son com- 
 breecbiess mandcd tlic regiment, came with them. He had a 
 ijoys. marquee on the right of the line. On perceiving us 
 
 he came out of his tent, and iiddressing Inmsolf to us, said 
 " Weel, gentlemen, are ye come to see my broechless boys ? 
 Gang up to them, they'll bear inspection. Allan '11 wheel 
 
61 
 
 thom for yo." Thoy wore really a roinarkably line, corps, and 
 llicir worthy rnlonol wns very ]ir(tu<l of tliem. After t'\o 
 puni'lt! was over iio iiiixt'tl witli the olHcers and men, and 
 haviiiu just j,'ot letters from Scothind, he hud something to 
 tell to every one of them. Ho called them all by tlieiv 
 names, Doiiidd, or llanald, or Jtodorick, and he looked like a 
 venerable ])atriareh in the midst of his tribe. 
 
 The whole of our force was marched into the pjardens or 
 park at Campo Grande. We had orders to rest on our arms, 
 and no one wus allowed to <^o outside tiie iron ruilinj^'s. 
 Sentinels were posted at all the f^ates to prevent any of the 
 military from going out, or any of the jjcoplc from getting in. 
 We waited there with great patience. Evening came, and 
 still no orders to move on or to get into quarters. Being 
 reluctant to eat a tough beefsteak in the open air wlien there 
 were such savoury smells streaming IVom the various restaurants 
 and saloons, under })retence of wishing to get some necessary 
 articles for the men, we got an ollicer of the guard to pass us 
 out. We soon had a cajiital dinner at a cana dc pasta, or 
 eating-house. When it was getting late I took a stroll up 
 the street, observing the numerous houses, all well lighted up, 
 and listening to the sounds of singing and music proceeding 
 from them. Soon I heard a voice in broken English say, 
 " How you do, sir ? You please come uj». Come, sir ! " I 
 looked up and saw a gentleman at a window waving his 
 hand to me. So, ready for an adventure, up I went. I was 
 cordially received by some gentlemen who had come out from 
 Lisbon to see us. They insisted on my staying supper with 
 them. There 1 saw for the lirst time an excellent lish called 
 save, something in the taste like a salmon, only the flesh is 
 of a white rose colour. We had plenty of delicious wine. 
 The gentlemen played the guitar, sang, and danced. They 
 expressed their regret that they had no ladies with them, as 
 their families were afraid to venture out in such warlike 
 times. They would not allow me to return to the gardens to 
 bivouac in the cold air, but gave me a mattress and a 
 cloak, and assured me that one of them w uuld call me up the 
 
nioinont the troops began to stii iii the giinleiLS in front, 
 which was done accordingly. I quietly stepped in as the 
 corps was getting under arms about three o'clock in the 
 morning. 
 
 Our brigade, the 29th and oOth Pieginients, marched, on 
 12th Sept., t^^G morning of tlie 12th September, into Lisbon, 
 Ente7 and took post in the Campo St. Anna, a large 
 fricmiV square in the upper part of the town, in which is 
 reception g^tuated the plagci dc torres, or amphitheatre, for the 
 bull-fights. We had positive orders that no one 
 should quit the square, or even enter into the houses, so that 
 we could not accept the pressing invitations of the inhabitants 
 who requested us to come in and take refreshments. They, 
 however, very kindly brouglit out chairs and sofas for us to 
 sit on or lie down upon. Many opened their porte-cocheres, 
 that we might get underneath and be sheltered from the sun. 
 At night I stepped into the amphitheatre, and took a nap in 
 one of the boxes. 
 
 The French occupied all the lower part of the town, and 
 were encamped in all the large public squares. They had 
 loaded cannon pointed down each street leading from them. 
 Constant patrols were kept going to see that all was quiet, 
 the French patrolling up to our posts, and we down to theirs. 
 To the astonishment of the Portuguese, these patrols were 
 constantly meeting and passing one another, neitlier cutting 
 the throats of the other. The truth was that, in conformity 
 French with the Convention of Cintra, the French were 
 
 prepare to ... , . 
 
 embark. now beginning to embark, and as their numbers 
 diminished on shore they were afraid that the people might 
 attack them, so they were eager for us to come and protect them. 
 On the morning of the 13th September, I and another 
 13th Sept., subaltern were ordered with a piquet of seventy 
 (liptarn men, under the command of Captain Clunes, of the 
 ciunas. ^Q\Xx Regiment, to proceed to relieve a French post. 
 As the staff-officer who was to conduct us had not arrived at 
 the hour appointed, Clunes, who was a cool soldier of com- 
 manding appearance, being six feet six inclies in height, and 
 
63 
 
 stout in proportion, said, " It is of no consequence ; having 
 been quartered liere beibre I know the way perfectly ". So 
 oil' we set. Ai'ter passing through some streets we came to 
 a large one leading to the Eocio Square. The French sentry, 
 on seeing us advance, instantly challenged, "Qui vive?" 
 Observiu"' that tlie Captain took no notice, I said to him, 
 " Sir, the sentry has challenged, and is presenting to fire at 
 us". "Let him lire," said he; "my orders ore to proceed. 
 If the staff liave neglected to inform the French, or to make 
 arrangements, it is not my fault." I then saw a French 
 ollicer run up to the sentry and make him recover his arms, 
 at the same time calling to the guard to turn out. We con- 
 tinued right on, and entered the sc^uare. We turned down 
 the left side, the centre being occupied with tents. The 
 guard presented aims, and we passed on carrying ours with- 
 out a word being exchanged between us ; but they looked 
 ratlier surprised. All the other posts did the same as we 
 passed. When we came to a French magazine of stores on a 
 wliarf by the river side, we relieved the French guard with 
 all the lionours. The Portuguese were quite amazed when 
 they saw us on such friendly terms with the French otticers, 
 and more particularly when they saw our men laughing and 
 shaking hands with the French soldiers when they met at 
 the well to get water. 
 
 I was much amused on observing a proclamation of Mar- 
 shal Junot's posted on the walls, announcing that he had 
 defeated tlie English, and that the 29th and 9tli Eegiments 
 had been cut to pieces. 
 
 I saw a French drummer boy. about fourteen years of age, 
 politely assisting two old ladies down rather a steep a Froxich 
 
 1 r> 1 • 1 1 T • 1 1 • -ir drummer 
 
 Slope trom a high ]»athway. 1 said to hnn, " You boy. 
 are a very smart little fellow ". "Oh !" said he, "I am young 
 now, but [ hope soon to have the honour of bearing arms." 
 I then asked him if he had been with the army engaged 
 against us. He replied, "I beat the charge at Vimieiro". 
 " Well, my friend," said 1, " and did you also beat the re- 
 treat ? " " Ah ! " said he, " you were double our number." 
 
64 
 
 "Mnn gavf^on, vous ctes un brave petit homme." "Ah!" 
 said he, " je suis encore jeune, mais j'esp^re bientot avoir 
 I'honneur de porter les amies. Je battis le charge au bataille 
 de Vimieiro." Curiously enough, 1 found that the two old 
 ladies were Irish, and they told me that they had been long 
 resident in Lisbon. 
 
 We ordered dinner at a hotel in the vicinity, and we 
 made up for past abstemiousness by indulgence in all the 
 luxuries which the place afforded. Indeed, to sit down on 
 chairs at a table with a clean cloth and a capital dinner be- 
 fore us was what we had not enjoyed for some months. On 
 calling for the bill, we were amazed at the amount, it being 
 no less than five thousand mil reis ! Not being accustomed 
 to the Portuguese mode of calculation, we were rather 
 puzzled. Our gallant Captain, however, to our satisfaction, 
 assured us that we were not ruined, as each thousand reis 
 was only about five shillings, so that our feast was a cheap 
 affair after all. 
 
 During our wine Captain Clunes related to us the follow- 
 ing anecdote: — Several years before he was coming ^^„oc(iotc 
 from Minorca in a ship of war, on board of which °^ '^""°*- 
 Junot, the present commander of the French army in Portugal, 
 also was, he having been taken prisoner. In a conversation 
 on the subject of grenadiers, Junot, alluding to the British 
 grenadiers, said to Clunes, who was captain of the grenadier 
 company of the 50th Eegiment, " Your men are only called 
 grenadiers because they are great, large men, and i re often 
 awkward fellows. Ours are all choice men, selected for their 
 meritorious service and distinguished bravery in the field." 
 " That may be," replied Clunes, "but I wish for nothing better 
 than a chance of meeting the best of yours some day in the 
 field with our men such as they are." That chance happened. 
 They met on a fair field at Vimieiro. Our fellows charged 
 the men of merit as they came on them, charging bayonets, 
 and dashing forward on the advancing foe. The issue is 
 well known. These choice veterans of France wavered, 
 scarcely venturing to stand the British shock. 1'hey turned 
 
65 
 
 and fled, leaving their front rank to be mowed down by onr 
 sturdy fellows. The Captuin a<lde(l lliat ia the mcU'e which 
 took place he never drew his sword, but witli a shillelah, 
 which he always carried, ho knocketl about him right and 
 left, and warded oil' with it many thrusts made at him- 
 self. 
 
 We were relieved next morning, the 14th of September, 
 and we rejoined our regiments in the Campo St. 
 Aiuia. The whole afterwards marched out to isos. ' 
 
 , r> T • 1 1 Evacuutiiiu 
 
 I'lcoas, about a mile north-east ot Lisbon, where we of usUouhy 
 
 the t'roiicb. 
 
 found the whole army encamped on some heights 
 commanding the town. The army was now under canvas. 
 The following day, the loth September, was that on j,:;,), gent 
 which, as agreed upon by the Convention of Cintra, ^''' ^• 
 the French flag was to be hauled down, and the Portuguese to 
 be hoisted, once more to wave free on the towers of Lisbon — 
 in fine, that the French dominion was to cease, and the castle 
 and all other military posts were to be delivered up to tlio 
 English army. 
 
 A grand guard was formed, consisting of the grenadiers of 
 the 29th, 40th, 50th, and 79th Iicgiments, with a party of the 
 9.'3th IJille Corps and some pieces of artillery, all under the 
 ord(;rs of General Cameron. They marched off at six 
 o'clock A.M., for the purpose of taking possession of the 
 citadel. The gallant veteran headed the guard mounted on a 
 favourite black charger, on which it had been his fortunate 
 lot proudly to enter several captured fortified places, the last 
 of which was Copenhagen. The 29th Regiment, with colours 
 flying and band playing, marched off at the same time, and 
 lu'oceededto thePlar^ode Ptocio, or grand srpiare of Lisbon, which 
 they occupied, relieving all the French posts in that quarter. 
 It was curious to observe the countenances and conduct of the 
 immense concourse of people as we passed through the streets. 
 At first all looked anxious, as if something fearful was going 
 to happen. So great had been the system of terror practised 
 on them by the French, that they seemed to be afraid to give 
 free vent to their joy at our entrance to deliver them from 
 
 5 
 
66 
 
 their oppressors. Some, bolder tlian the otliers, creeped 
 near lis, whisporiiiff softly, "Viva! viva!" others hef^an to 
 call out louder. "We theu auswered with loud shouts, " Viva ! " 
 This aeled as au electric shock. In a moment handkerchiefs 
 were waved i'rom every balcony and window by many fair 
 hands, and showers oC flowers came falling on our heads. The 
 dense masses took up the ciy. All hats waved on high ; loud 
 shouts of " Viva ! " were prolonged on every side. All faces 
 gleamed with joy, and in their excitement the people begau 
 kissing one another. At midday the French flag was struck 
 at the citadel, the forts, and the shipiung, and the Portuguese 
 flag was instantly displayed in its stead. The Portuguese flag 
 was salut(,'d l)y our artillery liring royal salutes at diflerent 
 points, and also by our ships of war which had entered the 
 Tagus. 
 
 Three companies of the 29th Itegimeiit were ordered to 
 
 cover the embarkation of the French army. We marched 
 
 from the IJocio to the small square in front of the 
 
 Sept., 1808. . ^ . ,. ., 
 
 -iiicidciitH naval arsenal, and were ih'awn up in line opposite 
 
 (if tUeeviicii- 1 1 1 • 1 1 
 
 atioiKif the grand entrance gateway, through which the 
 Lisbon. '^ a Jy o _ _ 
 
 French had to pass to get to the boats waiting at 
 the wharf to convey them to the transports. Several columns 
 defiled past us with nuisic playing. After entering the dock- 
 yard they ])iled arms, each corps waiting till its turn came to 
 embark. Many of their oilicers came out again, and stood 
 talking togetlier. The populace, who had been in great agita- 
 tion all the morning, on observing the French fast decreasing 
 ill numbers, and that we were now masters of Lisbon, became 
 emboldened, and very audacious, reviling the French troops 
 as they marched past, and shouting at the officers standing at 
 the gate, calling them the most opi)robrious names. I heard 
 a noise in rear of our line. On looking round, I observed 
 about a dozen of French soldiers, oilicers' servants, carrying 
 hat-boxes, buiuUes, cloaks, &e. They were running for their 
 lives, chased by a furious mob. Pefore I could get up to 
 protect them a I'oi'tugnese lad drew one of the unfortunate 
 men's swords from its scabbard at his side, and stabbed him to 
 
67 
 
 the lieart, before he had time to throw down tlio liirrf^a|,'e ho liad 
 ill his liaiuls, so as to be able to protect himself. We, however, 
 «n)t all the others safe. Soon afterwards several artillery ainimi- 
 uitioii wai^'ifons, drawn by four horses eaeh, eame down the large, 
 wide street, from the right, at full gallop. Tlie mob having 
 attacked tlieiu by firing pistols and pelting them with stones, 
 wo rushed out and drove back the outrageous assailants. 
 Diit man}' of the poor drivers were seriously wounded, and 
 one or two were felled to the ground. Sir John Hope, the 
 (Jeneral of the day, went up to the French officers standing 
 outside, and explained to them how awkwardly we were 
 situated to keep peace between them and an excited mob. 
 lie said to them iu his gentle numner, " I should be sorry to 
 impose any restraint upon yt)U, but may I request of yoii as 
 a personal favour that you would retire inside the arsenal?" 
 This they all did immediately. Hut all the men and otHcers 
 were much enraged, and were almost on the point of rushing 
 out to punish the mob in spite of us. 
 
 One of the French ofiicers said to me, "This is badly 
 arranged. I was captain of the main-guard in the riocio 
 Square, and had only forty-hve men, but not a man in Lisbon 
 dared venture to say 'boo' to me. Look at the cowardly 
 rascals, now that they are under your protection, how they 
 insult us." Another officer told me that, being on duty the 
 previous night, he could not return to his lodgings when the 
 guards were withdrawn, and that consequently all his baggage 
 was still there ; and he said he would be much obliged if 1 
 e(nild do anything for him. I immediately got leave from 
 ]\rajor \Vay to send a corporal and a file of men of th,i 29th 
 Jvegiment as an escort to protect him. ]]ut on his looking up 
 the street and seeing the threatening attitude of the mob, he 
 said with tears in his eyes, " Ah 1 monsieur, vous avez trop peu 
 de gens," and he declined to go with them. Another officer, 
 called St. Albans, was more fortunate. He spoke English 
 extremely well, and had been acquainted with our officers 
 when they wcire prisoners on board the Russian fleet. To 
 one of these officers he gave a description of his baggage, 
 
68 
 
 wliicli lie liad left in liis lodyiiiL^'s. The ollicer tcxjk a section 
 oi' our iiieii and l)r()U;j,lit all the lu^na^o saf(! into the dockyard. 
 The nioiiieiit it was put down the French otUcer hastened to 
 open a particular box. Finding its contents all safe, he said 
 with a joyous face, " This is all ri^ht. I do not care about 
 the others." The truth was, that he had there two large bags of 
 doublooiif "vhich plunder ho had acijuircd when commanding 
 at St. llbc No iisliing-boat was allowed to go out of the 
 harbour w" out a written ])ass froin him, and for this he 
 charged ; .iu. bloon e'ach. Long trains of waggons under 
 French escorts also ]>a8sed into the arsenal, loaded with 
 something termed stores, liaggaye, &c. 1 saw some carts 
 containing wliat appeared to be liars of metal about 
 (iighteen inches long iind two broad. These, 1 luulerstood, 
 were of silver, being plundered ])late melted down. They 
 were detained by us and given oxitv to the rortuguese 
 treasury. 
 
 In the after part of the day 1 was sent in conunand of a 
 detachment consisting of a strong party of the 29th lieginujut, 
 and a party of the (!erman Hussars. My orders were to 
 escort and protect the French fatigue parties employed iti 
 conveying the sick and wounded men from the different 
 hosjiitals to tlu; wharves for embarkation. This was a service 
 of rather a dillieult nature. The; mob was very audacious, 
 frequently pelting us, both foe and friend, with dirt and 
 stones, and often threatening to use violence, notwithstanding 
 that one portion of the cavalry were in advance to clear the 
 way, and another coveied the rear, while the infantry marched 
 in iiles on each side. The whole ibrmed an extensive 
 procession, as each sicl; litter rerpiired four men as bearers. 
 I was under the necessity of making at times demonstrations 
 of using force to keep the mob at a distanee. I had to make 
 several tri])S, owing to the hospitals being in different parts of 
 the city. In the evening, when all the sick were safely 
 conveyed to the boats, the French fatigue parties all assembled 
 at the Estrella Convent, which liad been the principal general 
 hospital. They put on their accoutrements, primed, loaded, 
 
69 
 
 and fixed biivouots. Our of the sons-nfficicrs asked mo liow 
 I wislicd tlioiii Ibrmed. I told liiiii to fovni theiu in eolunm 
 ul' subdivision iit quaitov distauce, uiid to kcH.'p well togetlier 
 durini^' the niarcii. Whm we were iil)out to move oil', the 
 Director-General of Ifospitals cuiue to tliunk niu tor the 
 trouble I had taken, and I'or ailbrding- our protection to the 
 sick. lie requested my permission lo give my men a glass of 
 wine. I opened the ranks, and faced them inwards. lie 
 began and gave each man to right and lei't as the steward 
 went down a small jug of wine, and excellent port it was. 
 
 I then disposed my party to conduct tlie French fatigue 
 parties to the wharf. The Tortuguese seemed (piite lost in 
 amazement when they l)eheld a Ihitish oflicer marching at 
 the head of an armed body of Frenchmen. We forjued rather 
 a formidable appearance, and no one ventured to molest us, 
 so we escorted them lo the boats in safety. I observed 
 numbers of poor fellows lying on the whart, who had been 
 fired at by the I'ortuguese from windows, or liit with stones 
 as they passed. Indeed, it was not safe for any Frenchman 
 to appear, unless guarded by the English. The French 
 soldierii' wives, however, made a good fight of through the 
 crowd. I heard some of them tell the mob, "You shall pay 
 for these outrages; our victorious armies will return again, 
 and we will wash our hands in Portuguese blood," at the same 
 time suiting their actions to their words. 
 
 Several of the French olUcers felt ,so grateful for the 
 protection which we had alforded them, that they made 
 presents of their horses to some of our odicers. (Jiir regiment 
 was most anxious to recover " lUack Jack," our gallant 
 Colonel's chai'ger. A communication was made to Cieueral 
 Delaborde that any sum he chose to name would be paid for 
 him if he would part with him. The General, in the hand- 
 somest manner possible, sent the horse back to us as a present 
 to the regiment, and said that he was hai:»py to have it in his 
 power to gratify a corps which had displayed such determined 
 gallantry against him. 
 
 After the urgent duties of this eventful day were all over, 
 
70 
 
 WG hnd exnectcd sonio respite. We, however, received orders 
 to reiiiiiin in tlic Siniarc in front of llip arsenal all ni^lit, with 
 instructions that no jx-rson was to (juit it, or to go into a 
 house. A ])roprietor of a h\v<^o lious* hpi,'ge(l us to take 
 shelter in his iiortc-rorhrrc , and for oui accommodation he 
 placed on the ground several fine new mattresses, which, he 
 said, the French olUcors had left in his house. On these we 
 took our rest by turns, as we relieved one another of duty 
 every two hours. Ne.vt morning a message came from a 
 French general, begging that thes(^ mattresses nnght he given 
 up to him, as they were his property. We afterwards learned 
 that they were all made of the finest cotton, which he had 
 taken somewhere, and had it made up in this form to get it 
 away. This, however, was a small matter compared with the 
 plunder of church plate, of the ])alaces, lilmiries, and royal 
 niusenm, and of the public arsenals. The Portuguese were 
 indignant, with some reason, at the Convention of Cintra, 
 when they saw that the French were allowed to quit Portugal 
 in so peaceful a manner with all their plunder. 
 
 The Kussian admiral Siniavin, with his fleet of nine sail 
 snrrciuior ^^ ^lic liiic auil souic IVigates, surrendered to Sir 
 KushLi Charles Cotton. The ships were to bo sent to 
 L^bcin. England to be detained during the war, and the 
 ti-oojisHoiit n^en were to be sent to their own country. The 
 tocatuom.i. j^p^^j^jg]^ tvoops wcrc diseml)arked, and had their 
 arms restored to them ; and, after they had been refitted with 
 all necessaries, they were embarked, and sailed for Catalonia. 
 
 We were relieved on the IGth September by the 50th 
 16th Sept Kegiment, and we marched out to our camp, glad 
 1808. ^Q gg^ j^ quiet night after so much fatigue. Our 
 
 repose was not, however, of long duration. Next morning, 
 17th Sept., ^^^^ 17th, we marched into Lisbon and relieved the 
 1808. ij-gjij xjegiment in the ]>lack Horse Square. But as 
 
 the French were now nearly all embarked, our duties were 
 less arduous, and we could sit and dine in the capital cafes 
 which surround this elegant square, the Exchange of Lisbon. 
 We had only to protect some French stores now given over 
 
71 
 
 to our commissariat, an 1 to guard aj^ainst. any disturbaiUM; 
 arising on tlio part ul' tliu poojjk' to avenge tlioniselves on 
 such of tlieir countrynuMi as had been found to liavc taken 
 part with their enemies, the French. On the following day, 
 the 18th, we were relieved, and proceeded to tlie isn, gopt 
 camp, there being no furtlier oeeasion for this daily ^^^' 
 duty, as a garrison had been estalilished in the citadel, and 
 took all the guards and otlier duties dcemeil necessary in the 
 citadel. 
 
 The French being now fairly cleared out of Portugal, and 
 the gloom and dread caused by the tyrannous invadcir being 
 dispelled, the jieople gave themselves up to unbounded joy 
 and festivity. The city was illuminated for several nights, 
 and the theatres were o]iened for free admission. A grand 
 public ball was given at the opera-house, and all the English 
 officers were invited. 
 
 From my having been for some days continually employed 
 in the most harassing duty, without time or ojiportunity of 
 even changing my clothes, with my feet frequently wet, and 
 obliged to take the little sleep 1 got lying on the damp ground, 
 I got a bad cold, and felt very unwell ; and next day, lor the 
 fiist time in my life, 1 was obliged to report myself sick, and 
 to be ])laced on the sick list. One of the gentlemen who had 
 treated me to a supper at Campo Grande brought his family 
 out to sec our cam]), and to pay me a visit. Finding that I 
 was unwell, they most kindly invited me to remove to their 
 house in town, where every attention would l)e shown to me. 
 However, perhaps through a mistaken csp'iYf^c cor^w, being un- 
 willing to leave my regiment while it was still in the field, I 
 declined their friendly offer, and much reason I had to regret it. 
 I got daily worse, and 1 was declared to have got xyphus 
 tyjihus fever, which had attacked many of our '''^'"'"• 
 stoutest men and some of our officers. There being no 
 hc»spital yet prepared, we were obligxl to remain in tents, 
 sick as we were, lying on some straw on the ground. At 
 length, on the 24th Sejitcndjer, the encampment at .vm, «,>pt 
 Picons was broken up, and the troops marched to ^*"''' 
 
72 
 
 anotlier ])()siti<)ii sumn inilcs iVom Li.slmn, whovo the force 
 was vuiy niiicli iiicrcasod by roinforceinoiits wliidi liail arrived 
 some time before, uiidfr Sir Jolin Moore. I, with seven other 
 ollicors, and ahmil one liiuKhcd and lil'ly men of our re_yiniont, 
 all ill of fevei', was removed into a "gentleman's country house, 
 which had been fitted u]) as an hos])ital, under the charge of 
 our able surgeon, Dr. Cluthrie, to whose great skill and 
 attention 1 may, under rrovidence, attrilaite my recovery. 
 After my life having been des])aired of for many days, my 
 case took a favourable turn ; V)ut being left in a most debilitated 
 condition, my progress towards recovery was tediously slow. 
 In the meantime, many of our brave fellows who had escaped 
 the dangers of war had fallen under the cruel hand of disease. 
 What is luost remarkable is, that those who succumbed 
 appeared to be the most rol)ust men in the regiment. ])uring 
 my long convalesence, which lasted for several weeks, 1 was 
 much indebted to the hospit.'d surgeon's wife, INIrs. (iundley, 
 who had been our housekeejier during our long al.iode on 
 board the transport shi}) during the previous winter. She 
 used to make me light chicken-broth and sago nicely 
 prepared. 
 
 1 was Ivini,' one morning on a sofa placed between tAvo 
 windows, while Dr. Cluthrie was sitting writing at a table 
 near the centre of the room. On a sudden I heard a crash 
 of glass near my head, and at the same moment I saw the 
 Doctor start up from his chair, exclaiming, " Bless me, 
 Langton, what the deuce are you about ? You have cut my 
 legs." He evidently imagined that Langton, who shortly be- 
 fore had been standing near him, had played him some prac- 
 tical joke, which he was fond of doing. I soou let him into 
 the secret of what had hajipened to him. He had been hit 
 by a musket-ball. On examination, we found that a ball had 
 entered through the window, passed close to my head, grazed 
 against one of the legs of the chair on which the Doctor was 
 sitting, and hit him on the calf of both legs, cutting through 
 the pantaloons and upper leather of the boot, and slightly 
 wounding his right leg, but cutting only the pantaloons on 
 
73 
 
 tliu It'll out'. Wt! Cdii^viitviliiU'il ciicli utlici' uii oui' narrow 
 I'scnjie. Had tlu; ball not liil tlic Ic^ of llu' chair lirst, it 
 would linvi'goiiu tliro\i_yli botli llic DuctovV Icj^s. On looking 
 out tVuni flic window wo could discover no one. After tlio 
 l'c\cr left nie, 1 still continued wiak, and not lieing able to 
 lake exercine, 1 anmscd myself liy continiuny- my journal, 
 which had been interrupted for some time. 
 
 We found the rortu,!j;uese in a most wretched slate, w itli- 
 (lut leadei'.s or government of any kind. The kinjf statoof 
 and most of the nobility had ileil, abandoninjf the u,Xr'u\o 
 country to the tender mercies of a rapacious foe. "-■'"'• 
 IJonaparte, having successfully cheatt'd Spain out of hei' 
 liberty, had determined to ac(]uire I'ortugal in liJce manner. 
 The Fi'cnch army entered Portugal in lS(t7, accompanied by 
 a Spanish force, under the guise (if friendship. They hoped 
 to surjtrisc! the king in his capital, and to secure him and his 
 fleet also. Indeed, so ra^ud had been their march, that, I am 
 assured, they arrived at Lisbon, oflicers and soldier.s, without 
 baggage of any kind, many even without shoes on their feet — 
 in fact, in such disorder that they might have been cut to 
 pieces in their passage through the country, had any active, 
 determined leader mustered even a snudl force for that 
 purpose. 
 
 The Portuguese, hoping for the best, had received the 
 invaders in a ii'iejidh^ manner, and cheerfully supplied all 
 their innnediate wants. Many gentlemen told me that be- 
 sides inviting French oflicers to take quarters in their houses, 
 they even presented them with shirts and other articles. But 
 scarcely had eight days elajised, when the French, finding 
 that no resistance was oU'ered, and that the Portuguese were 
 lulled into security, one night suddenly surrounded all the 
 variuus barracks in v.hich the Portuguese reuiments were 
 quartered, with troops and artillery ready to open lire upon 
 them. The alternative \\as oilercil either to give up their 
 arms or be cut to pieces. Under such circumstances resist- 
 ance was in vain. Tlie Portuguese afterwards had the choice 
 either to be disbanded, all the ofticers losing their commissions, 
 
74 
 
 or to niiiii'li to I'Vaiu'c, nil tlic oHUims jj;i'tliii<f a stop of prnjiio- 
 tion. Altoiit llJ.OOO of till! troops ucccpteil the latter tcuiiis, 
 l)Ut many altcrwiinls Jiindc thoii uscapo on tliuir road to 
 France. 
 
 'J'Ik; noxt step which llie French took was to disarm all 
 the inhahitiuits. A proclamation was issued piohihilinj^ any- 
 one to carry or possess arms, and a places was appointed 
 where all arms were to be delivered uj). All opposition 
 haviii!,' been carefully ,u;uarded against, the usual French 
 plundering system began. Heavy contributions in money 
 Were imposed under pemdly of martial law. All the shops 
 were visited, and most of the articles which they contained 
 were confiscated, under the pretence that thcsy were English 
 goods, jiarticularly all cloth and coti.m, which were taken to 
 clothe the French army, to the ruin of tlie merchants. Jlence 
 commerce and trade of every kind was at a stand, morc» 
 especially as the English fleet blockading the port would not 
 allow any vessel to enter. IMost of thos(( who held otlice or 
 public emi)loyments \\ere disnussed, and a few oidy were 
 replaced by persons favourable to the French interests. 
 From all these causes thousands were reduced to beggary, 
 and many to absolute wiint. Contributions of grain having 
 been afterwards demanded, and no tishing-boats being allowed 
 to go to sea, from the dread lest they should communicate 
 with our fleet, the poor people were indeed in a state of 
 abs(3lute want and starvation. 
 
 Strong detachments of troops were encamj)ed in all the 
 large public squares, from which loaded cannon were pointed 
 down every street, while i)i(|uets and patrols traversed the 
 streets continually in all directions. The shops were ordered 
 to be closed every evening at nightfall, and no inhabitant 
 was permitted to ai)pear in the streets after the retreat was 
 beat. I'lie citizens could scarcely venture to walk at any 
 time without danger to their lives. They were liable to be 
 challenged every instant by the numerous sentinels, who 
 instantly fired when they did not receive an immediate or a 
 proper answer. ]\lany were killed in this manner, but no 
 
73 
 
 redress could bo <,'(>1 from .Tiin(»t. Itidecd, in sucli dread woro 
 till) French held tliiiL the iicoidc in |ias.siii^' the sentries would 
 take (jfl" their hiits, siiyin^ to them " With your i»eriuissiou," 
 and thu.s pass on hareheatled. 
 
 The Krench exactions were not confined to Lisbon. Every 
 province and town suCl'cred in likf manner. The Portiwii 
 
 uiiilurtho 
 
 church i)late was everywhere seized ; the altars and ricmii. 
 nioinnnents wore broken up to see whether treasure had beiMi 
 concealed in them ; the churches were often made ([uarters 
 for the troops, and sometimes even used us stables, A 
 movable column, untler (leneral Loison, was employed to 
 collect forced contributions antl to amass plunder. The most 
 brutal excesses, too shocking to be mentioned, were committed 
 under the orders of this savage comnumder, when he i)illaged 
 the convents and churches at i'A'ora. He was (Muployed in 
 the sanu! disgraceful missictu in I'ortugal, and was in the act 
 of receiving a jiortion of an exorbitant contribution when the 
 unexpected news of our disembarkation in I'ortugal waa 
 announced. The cash was hurriedly raked from the tables 
 into bags, and five of the princijjal inhabitants were seized as 
 hostages and security for the portion remaining uncollected. 
 The drums beat to arms, and the roblier marched off in 
 great haste, taking with him the very silk hangings which 
 adorned the saloons of the mansion in which he had 
 lived. 
 
 Lisbon swarmed with mendicants of every class and de- 
 scription. 1 have often been astonished at being stt^pped by 
 reiiiarkiibly wcll-dre.ssed people, who, taking otf their hats 
 with a i)olite bow, begged " Alma eozino i)or amor de Dios ". 
 To such a i)itch of distress did the French reduce these 
 people, and with such awe had their severity inspired them, 
 that even on our triumjdial entry into Lisbon as coni|uerors 
 to free them i'rom this odious buntlage of their oppressors, 
 they could scarcely venture to give vent to their j(jy by an 
 open public demonstration. Their " Vivas " were at first but 
 whispered in subdued tones, until they saw that we were able 
 and willing to protect them. 
 
7fi 
 
 Miirslial Junot, for Ids unopposed inroad into rortugal, 
 jiimitin styled a conquest, had the pompous title of Duke of 
 rurtu^'ai. Avrantes conferred upon him by his Coivsican master. 
 r»y force of arms he nded with the must arbitrary sway, in 
 civil as well as in military aifairs, more absolute than any 
 king. There was a Junta, or Council of State, consisting of 
 Portuguese of rank and ability, but it existed only in name. 
 Junot made use of them only as the means of comnmnieating 
 his will and demands to the nation, and to execute his 
 iniquitous measun^s for the ruin of their country. He was 
 wont to attend their sittings, and to treat them with the most 
 supercilious insolence. If anyone attempted to renidnslrite 
 against an unreasonable demand or i)rojcct, he used to repi^^ , 
 " It must be. iS^otre Empereur est tres just mais an mtMue 
 temps tros severe." At another time, if a serious discussion 
 was going on, he would stand at the window, and then call 
 one of the members, a venerable manpiess, or an old conde, 
 and, pointing to some girl passing in the street, say, " Come, 
 tell me, who is that pretty signora?" or he would make some 
 absurd jest. He occupied the splendid palace of Baron 
 Quintelle, where he lived in the most magnificent style. He 
 especially endeavoured to ingratiate himself with the ladies 
 by giving brilliant fetes, hoping by their inthience to succeed 
 in prevailing on the magnates of the land to adopt opinions 
 favourable to the French interest. On one occasion a superb 
 ball was given in the opera-house. It was hinted to the 
 noble and wealthy that it would add much to the splendour 
 of the festive supper-board if they wovdd send their plate for 
 the night. The good, simple souls obeyed the bidding. The 
 supper was eaten, and., it would app' i', much of the plate 
 also. From that night to this more than one-half never 
 returned to the owners. The opera was kept open, and so 
 fond of pleasure was the Marshal, that he even brought ladies 
 with him in his coach when he came to fight us at Vimieiro. 
 
 When the Spanish nation rose in IMay, 1808, and declared 
 war against their oppressors, the I'rench, Junot became very 
 apprehensive that a like proceeding would take place in 
 
77 
 
 Portugal. He enforced with great rigour every stringent 
 pn'cautionarv measure against an outbreak. He was .sadly 
 puzzled liow to dis])ose oi' llie Spanish army which came with 
 liim as allies to Lisbon. He dreaded that they would stir up 
 the Portuguese to resistance against him, or that they would 
 •rive him the slii) and march back to join their brethren in 
 Spain. He determined to outwit them. With seeming 
 liberality, he assured them that he would send them back by 
 sea to their own country. Ships were assigned for this 
 purpose, and a certain day was ti.xcd for the embarkation of 
 the Spaniards. When tlu; day came tlicy were nuxrchcd down 
 to the Black Horse Sijuare. Uuder various pretences they 
 were detained there \\aiting. During this time large bodies 
 of French troops, with guns, were brought down and ra[iidly 
 formed in their rear, while the Spaniards were enclosed by 
 the sea-like river in their tniut. They were then, to tiieir 
 utter astonishment and grief, ordered to pile their arms, and 
 were told that tliey must embark as prisoners, and if they 
 (lid not comply with the order inini^ 1 lately, they would be 
 cut to pieces. The I'ortuguese arms was reduced to seven 
 regiments of infantry and three of cavalry, and of these a 
 large proportion was sent oif to France under the command of 
 tlie Marrpiess of Alorna. The Portuguese, having no leaders, 
 could offer no resistance to their oppressors, but they lon<'ed 
 to take vengeance on the authors of their degradation. (Jur 
 army expelled the invaders, and the people received us as 
 their deliverers. The French were compelled to retire, and 
 the scenes which I have described when they embarked at 
 Lisbon display the deep-rooted hatred of the Portuguese. 
 
 We found the Portuguese, as individuals, a good-natured, 
 kind-hearted people, in many instances showing ^^^^^ p^^^. 
 great hospitality and attention to the oflicers t"«uo.so. 
 liilleted on them. They observe the most strict forms of 
 politeness to one another. Even the meanest persons 
 meeting in the street take oif their hats and bow, and 
 frequently embrace one anotlier. Put taken as a whole, they 
 appeared to us rather a helpless race, displaying no energy, 
 
78 
 
 and possessin<f no dariu^^' or enterprising spirit. Had they 
 followed the cxnniplo of S|»ain, and f(jrnied guerillas between 
 Lisbon and the frontiers, thoy might have forced the French 
 to retire, and have freed their capital and country of their 
 presence, without having left it to us, strangers, to do it for 
 them. For guerilla operations the country, intersected by 
 numerous passeo, is particularly favourable, and the French 
 rear could easily have been threatencvl, and all reinforcements 
 and connnunication with the main army in Spain cut off. 
 
 When we had accomplished our glorious work, and had 
 restored to the Fortuguese tlieir own government and laws, 
 they seemed but little sensil)le of tlie great benefits we had 
 conferred upon them. Some even asserted that they could 
 have driven the enemy out without our aid. They actually 
 appropriated to themselves all tiie honour of having done so, 
 and had the impudence to pul)lish a view of the battle of 
 Vimioiro, in wliich the Portuguese horse and foot were hewing 
 and hacking the French to pieces, while not an English 
 uniform was even represented. 
 
 Lisbon has a very magnificent appearance in beholding 
 it from the water. On entering it one finds the Lisbon, 
 portion which was rebuilt after tlie dreadful earthquake laid 
 out in liandsome streets and two S[)acious squares. But in 
 other parts of the city the streets are generally niirrow, and 
 all are disgustingly dirty. There being no public sewers, all 
 the filth is thrown into the centre of the streets, and there 
 accumulated in a high ridge throughout the whole length. 
 Packs of half-starved looking dogs lie basking in the sun in 
 retired corners, or go prowling about picking up what they 
 can find in the dunghills. The houses in general are con- 
 structed of stone, and each is entered by a large gateway 
 leading to a court within, round which are stables, coach-house, 
 offices, &c., as the lower story is seldom inhabited. 
 
 To get admittance into almost any house, however well 
 you may be acquainted, is an affair of no small difficulty, 
 owing to the numen)us precautions taken to keep out unwel- 
 come visitors. These precautions strike a stranger as if the 
 
70 
 
 Portunuese viewed one another with great suspicion and 
 distrust. In all those houses having gateways, before the 
 wicket is opened to admit anyone, thoy aiv. narrowly examined 
 and cross-questioned through a small square hole covered with 
 an iron grating ; in others you are questioned through a hole 
 in th(! floor above the entrance. On ascending the staircase 
 and reaching the first floor, you are again scrutinised through 
 a strong grating. 
 
 Portugal being now completely liberated from the French 
 yoke, the Ihitish government determined on sending a force 
 to the north of Spain to act in conjunction with ilic Spanish 
 armies. It was notified to Sir Hew Dairy niple, commanding 
 the forces in Portugal, that he was to send a corps of 20,000 
 infantry, two regiments of German light cavalry, and a certain 
 number of brigades of artillery, to join 10,000 troops under 
 Sir David Baiid, wlio would land at Corunna, and that the 
 whole was to be under the command of Sir John Moore, as 
 Commander-in-Chief, he having received his appointment on 
 the 6th October, 1808. 
 
 The army destined for service in Spain, under the com- 
 mand of Sir John ]\Ioore, commenced in October to Annyiuuior 
 
 lit-. • 1 r 1 • • ^''' Ji'l'n 
 
 march towards the Spanish trontier, in separate Mu(jre. 
 colunnis and by different routes. The cavalry, four brigades 
 of artillery, and four regiments of nifantry, under Lieutenant- 
 General Sir John Hope, proceeded the south road, through 
 Alentejo, Padajos, jMerida, Truxillo, Talavera de la Peyna, 
 and the Escurial. Three brigades, under Lieutenant-Geueral 
 Fraser, marched by Abrantes and Almeida. Two brigades 
 went by the north road, under ^Major-General Beresford, by 
 Coimbra and Almeida. Sir John Moore, with his head- 
 quarters, set out on the 27th October, 1808. 
 
 But the 29th Pegiment, owing to the severe loss it had 
 sustained in the actions in which it had been engaged, ,51,5^^ .„ 
 and many wounded and sick still remaining in ^"*^'^"- 
 hospital, was, to our great mortilication, ordered to remain in 
 Por*^ gal, and to be stationed in Lisbon. They consequently 
 marched into the citadel. 
 
80 
 
 The hospital establishment at Picons, where I still 
 remained, was not broken n]) wluni tlio ro^imont moved into 
 Lisbon, llowevei', al'Lcr a [)rotraet(Mi convalesence, I was at 
 lengtii snlliciently re(;()V('reil to b(^, able to be veinoved into 
 the city, and 1 was carried to a billet in the vicinity of the 
 -n V „ castle where th(; regiment was, abont tlie 7th 
 isus. November. This was a miserable qnarter of the 
 
 city. Tlie streets were steep, narrow, and lillliy. The 
 dwellings were but second-class small houses. The cntrr- 
 sol being the only spare i)art of the house; to which I was 
 taken, was assigned to me. It consisted of one room and a 
 small bedroom, miserably furnishi'd, and a sort of kitchen 
 cj^uite unfurnished. The up])(',r ]»art of the house was occupied 
 by the proprietor, a retired tradesman, and his niece, with 
 one servant girl. 
 
 I had intended to endeavour to get my billet exchanged 
 Fever, ague, for a uiorc chccrful abode, but in a day or two I was 
 aysontoiy. attacked with fever and ague, which put removal 
 out of the i[Ut>stion. No sooner had the Tertian left me, 
 after a couple of weeks' suflering, than I was seized with, 
 dysentery. In the meantime, while 1 laboured under this 
 accumulation of illnesss, the 29th liegiment, having recruited 
 its stnnigth by the recovery of numl)ers of sick and wounded, 
 and liaving also received a draft oi' recruits from Kngland, 
 got orders to proceed to join the army in Spain. Accordingly, 
 i-'thDoc. i*^ ^'^'^^ Lisbon about the r2th Decembei', 1808. 
 1808. rj^ij^^ g-^|, j.]^^ women, and baggage wcu'e ordered to 
 
 move to the grand depot of the army established at 
 Bolem. 
 
 I remained for some time in Lisbon. My hosts were the 
 first Tortuguese family T had been (piartei'ed with ; but owing 
 to my illness we had for some time litthi or no intercours((. 
 After I was able to move out a little, the old gentleman and 
 I got occasionally into conversation, and at length he invited 
 me to come up in an evening to chat with him. This I was 
 glad to do, as it alforded me an opportunity of accpiiring a 
 knowledge of the Portuguese language. 
 
81 
 
 My accomplished friend, Lieutenant Crokor, had made 
 mc promise that 1 siioukl dine with him on Christ- i.ie„to,Kuit 
 mas-day, promising mo Englisli fare. Tlie 2ot]i [lut'i'ntas 
 December came. T, tliougli still far from well, kept ''""""• 
 my appointment at tlie hour mentionoil. On arriving T 
 found a note to say that my friend liad unexpectedly 
 been ordered on some duty, but lie hojied to be back by 
 half-past seven. I waited until eiglit o'clock, and there being 
 no signs of liis appearance, I called for his servant. Tlio 
 rortugucso landlady seemed to evade my question. At 
 length she let me into the secret that ho was lying 
 mortally drunk. Seeing all hope of I'oast-beef and 
 plum-pudding vanish, I returned home, ashamed to 
 acknowledge that I had been done out of my dinner. 
 
 My quarters being chill ami dreary, I applied at the 
 district oflice to have my bdlet changed. The secretary, who 
 spoke French very fluently, told me to write to the Minister 
 of Police. I begged that he would have the goodness to 
 write down what I ought to say. He declared that he could 
 not spell a M-ord of French. We both looked puzzled ; but, 
 taking a pen, I requested tliat he would dictate, and to his 
 surprise, I, who could then only chatttu' a few sentences, 
 wrote accurately what he told me. I had learned French gram- 
 matically, but, unlike him, I had never had practical opportuni- 
 ties of speaking it, and ho had learned it by heaiing it spoken. 
 A little before this time we heard of the escape of the 
 Marquis de la liomana and his army of 10,000 men. In 
 January, 1807, Bonaparte had induced the Spanish govern- 
 ment to place at his disposal 14,000 of their best troops to 
 form a corps of observation on the I'rontiers of Hanover, and 
 close the mouths of the Weser and the Elbe arainst the Eno. 
 lish. These troops were placed under the orders of Eomana. 
 They marched through France, and were placed under the su- 
 preme command of Bernadotte. After the peace of Tilsit, 
 in July, 1807, war having broken out between England and 
 Denmark, and Bonaparte designing to invade Sweden, the 
 Spanish troops were ordered to the Danish Islands, with a 
 
 6 
 
82 
 
 view to their forniini:^ the vanguard of P»eriia(lotto's army. 
 non.uims 'J'l'''y landed in Marcli, Ajiril, and iMay, 1S08, in 
 nVulh""'" Zeeland, Jutland, and F.inen. When the Spaniards 
 isiiinaa. j.ygg ayainst the French, the English Government 
 were anxious to withdraw this Spanish corjjs from the French 
 army. But this was an affair of no small dilliculty, as the 
 Spaniards were surrounded by the French, who distrusted 
 them, and no connnnnications from Spain were allowed to 
 roach them. In order to inform liomana of the actual state 
 of affairs in Sjiain, and to induce him to return to his country 
 with this army, tlie F^nglish Government employed the llev. 
 dames liobertson, a Catholic clergyman, and monk of the 
 lioinaim- 'Scotcli monastery at Ifatishon, to open communica- 
 Udbeitson. ^^JQjjg ^yj^j Honiana, and to offer him the services of 
 an English ileet to convey him and his army to Spain. After 
 niairy narrow escapes, Mr. Robertson succeeded in getting an 
 interview with liomana, who willingly seconded the plans of 
 the English Government. His measures were successful. 
 He eluded the vigilance of Bernadotte, and escaped from the 
 Islands with the greater part of his force, which immediately 
 set sail for Spain, and disembarked at Santauder on the 9th 
 October. Romana himself went to London to make some 
 arrangements with the lilnglish Ministry, and did not land in 
 luuNov., Spain till after the battle of Espinosa, 11th Novem- 
 ^'*"*^' ber, 1808, Mr. Bobcrtson gave great satisfaction 
 
 to the English Government by the manner in which he con- 
 ducted his delicate and difficult mission, and he got a grant 
 of a pension of £300 a year. I afterwards met him frequently 
 at my father's house at Fettcrnoar, when he used to recount 
 to us his adventures and hairbreadth escapes. He told us 
 that at that time his portrait was in the possession of the 
 police of every city and town of the continent of F'nrope. 
 
 Before finishing my account of our iirst campaign, I may 
 Mode of •'^tld a short descri[)tion of our mode of living in the 
 duHMKa iield. Xeither olTicers nor men had tents, and 
 huts— Jiavnig been liut raieiy lianed m the vicunty of 
 
 tents. , 1111 
 
 conunon wouils, we Iiad sehlom opportunities ot 
 
83 
 
 hutting ourselves, as it was most strictly prohibited to cut 
 any olive or other fniit trees. "We -svere therefore in general 
 obliged to sleep in the open air. Our only choice of ]»lace 
 was to secure, when it was practicable, a large walnut or 
 other tree with spreading branches, under the shcJter of 
 which to take up our temporary abode. Our beds for tlie 
 niglit were easily made up. Mine consisted of a mat made 
 of sedge, about the size of a heartlirug, .spread on tlie ground, 
 on whicli, wrapped in a large cloak, with a leather cap fur a 
 nightcap, I slept like a top. 
 
 Wlien we were bivouacked in tlie vicinity of a pine or 
 other common wood, we erected huts, which were constructed 
 in the following manner: — Two upright posts, about vseven 
 feet high, with forked ends, were planted in the ground about 
 fifteen feet asunder. On these was placed a ridge-pole, or 
 roof-tree, against wiiicli other poles were placed on eacli side 
 in a slanting position, so as to form the frame of a roof. The 
 wliole was tlien covered with pine brandies, or lieatli, broom, 
 or straw. One end was closed up with poles placed nearly 
 close together, and stuffed in the joints with grass or moss. 
 The other end, which was left open for the entrance, had for 
 a door a movable screen of wicker-work. Where we could 
 find a tree, we always built the huts a little to the north-east 
 of it, so as to have as much shade as possible. Indeed, on a 
 few occasions when under canvas we liad iiuts also, as we 
 found them so much cooler than the tents during the day; 
 but at night, or during rain, the tents, as being waterproof, 
 had the preference. 
 
 Tables and chairs not being portable C(nnmodities, we had 
 none ; but we supplied the place of both by a most primitive 
 contrivance. We dug two parallel trenches about four feet 
 apart, and five feet long. Two persons could sit on each side 
 with tlieir feet in the trenches, while the intermediate space 
 formed the table. When a light was required, we stuck a 
 bayonetintothis verdant festive-board, and placed acanuie in the 
 socket. This made a capital military candlestick. Around it we 
 quailed wine, whiffed cigars,sang songs,and narrated adventures. 
 
S4 
 
 On first starting wo had a very scrambling mode of 
 getting anytliing to cat, but a b'ttb; oxperienco soon made us 
 aufait in providing what was noodful. Tlnue or four oHicers 
 usually clubbed together and formed a mess. One undertook 
 to cater, another to sui)erintend the (.'rection of a hut, or to 
 sec that the tents were pitched in projjer positions, and a 
 third had charge of some other department. Our breakfast 
 generally consisted of chocolate, whicli was excellent all over 
 the Peninsuhi, and very portable and easily [trepared, with 
 ration bread and a morsel of cold meat, with honey sometimes, 
 but butter there was none to bt; liad. How(!ver, we found 
 that the chocolate was very he.'iting and e.xcited thir.st, and 
 that tea was much preferable, as being more refreshing, and 
 a great restorative after fatigue. Oiu' standard dishes for 
 dinner were a certain portion of ration l)eef made into scup, 
 with rice, turnips, carrots, onions, and tomatoes. These being 
 long stewed, the soup was nutritious and the beef was always 
 tender. Another portion of our ration l)eef was made into 
 steaks, fried with onions ; sometimes we had the addition of 
 the tongue or the heart of an ox, which the military butcher 
 had the privilege of selling. iVt other times, when they could 
 be got, we indulged in such luxuries as hares, partridges, or 
 fowls. These we managed to roast by the contrivance of 
 fixing up three ramrods in the form of a triangle, and sus- 
 pending the game or fowl by a worsted thread, to which the 
 cook now and then gave a twirl. 
 
 When dinner was served up, the camp-kettle was placed 
 in the middle as our soup tureen ; another camp-kettle, with 
 boiled beef, was placed at the top ; and a third, with beef- 
 steaks, was placed at the bottom of our table ; and the 
 vegetables, when we could get them, were placed at each 
 side. Our round wooden canteens supplied the place of 
 decanters, and were often Idled witii some of the excellent 
 wine of the country, which we cooled by covering tlie can- 
 teens with wet cloths, and hanging them on a tree. 
 
 No wheeled carriages were permitted to be employed in 
 the conveyance of baggage, as they would have not only 
 
iuipedwl the luaicli, but, \m\v^ ]ial)li! to hiviik down, would 
 hiivc! caused iiiucli inoiti'ity to have be(!n lost. Horses and 
 mules were the only means of transport allowed in the line of 
 march, they bein^f capable of proceeding at all times rapidly 
 and over any roads, however ])reci|)itous in mountainous 
 districts. Mules were found far i»referable to horses for 
 continued hard work. 'I'hey were less delicate, and less 
 liable to sore backs; they require less care, and can live upon 
 less and coarser food ; they can endure more fatigue, and are 
 more sure-footed in rocky paths. 
 
 To campaign with tolerable comfort the follownig equip- 
 ment was found riiquisite, and would answer for NoccHHiirios 
 one, two, or three persons, according to their rank ^"'" '^""'f'"'^ 
 and means. Two good mules ; two pack saildles, with 
 wooden frames and hooks attached ; two stout portmanteaus, 
 with strong straps and iron loops ; two panniers, covered 
 with hide, fitted up as canteens, with straps and loops ; one 
 small marquee or pavilion tent ; two walking-stick camp- 
 stools ; cue waterproof bag palliasse, to hold straw and form 
 a bed ; two blankets, one ]>illow, one waterproof nightcap; one 
 large camlet cloak, well lined, warm, but light to carry, and 
 soon dried after rain ; one l(>atlier bottle to carry wine ; one 
 leather bucket ; one bill-hook, or good small hatchet ; one 
 sickle ; one claw-hammer ; some horse-shoe nails ; two large 
 oilcloth covers, one for each load. 
 
 Articles made of silver are not advisable; those of tin or 
 other metal are easily replaced if lost. Dishes and drinking- 
 cups should be made to fit into one another. 
 
 NOTES FOE PORTUGAL. 
 
 Junot, t-whv^ the rapid si)ieiul of the popular moA'eiueiU, and that 
 
 the coiumuuicatiuu between the diU'erent cui']is of his army j,„„jt. un- 
 
 was interrupted bv tlie hot^tile pupulatiun, dtlerniined to ?"",• I'.'liiiW- 
 
 A -^ 11' ^ tantH riHO at 
 
 concentrate his fiU'ce.s in the vicinitv of Lislioii, leuving (inunia, 
 
 • 1 i> • T 1 I 11 Aluiitojo, 
 
 yanisons at Llvas, Ahnenui, IVniche, and h^L-tubal. licja.Lcivia, 
 
 Loisun, who wua at Guarda, received orders to assiuue the '"" ^"'''" 
 
commnud ol Opoilo. llu lel't iv fjnniHon ut Alnieiila, ami, mi tlio 
 ifilii June, 1^5*1' June, 1808, liu flct nut witli two ref,'iiiu'iitH of Infantry, 
 1808. f^ fg^y dragoons, and a brigade of artillery. But after crossing 
 
 the Douro at l^'^ora, on finding' that the armed ]i()i)ulatiun oci'iipicd 
 the strong country in his iVont, he di'turniincd to retreat. During his 
 retreat, on the 23rd June, he hud an affair with the peasantry at Castro 
 d'Airo, and inflicted considerable loss on them. lie then continued his 
 retreat to ttuarda, where he received ordern from .hinot to return to 
 Lisbon. lie proceeded by Pinhel to Almeida, where he left his sick 
 and a garrison of 1200 men ; and having destroyed the fort, he con- 
 tinued his march to Lisbon. On approaching Guarda again, on the 
 
 „ , ... , 3rd July, he was oniioscd by the iieasantrv, whom he 
 .lri],,1tli, ami •' ' ' ' •' ' ^ " ' 
 
 mil July, attacked and routed, and a terrilde scene of massacre and 
 pillage ensued. Next day he resumed his march, and on the 
 5th July he defeated the patriots at Alpedrinhani (?). After this he 
 continued his march, and reached Al>rantes on the 11th July without 
 niolestiition. 
 
 The province of Alentejo was now also in arms. The jjcoide 
 '.'.'irtl Juno, attacked the French at Villa Viyosa on the 23rd June, and 
 ^**""- compelled them to retire t(j the castle. CJeneral Kellernian, 
 
 who connnanded the district, hastened to relieve the troops driven into 
 the castle, and he took a cruel revenge on the people by butchering 
 many of the inhabitants. The people, however, were not dismaye(l. 
 They attacked and took the fort of Juramenha, which connnanded the 
 passage of the (Juadiana. 
 
 On the 24th June an outbreak took place at Beja. On the 2Gth 
 24th Jinic, General Maransin defeated the peojjle, and then entered the 
 1808. town, which was pillaged and burned, and many of the 
 
 inhabitants put to the sword. 
 
 About the same time a large body of patriots assembled at Leiria. 
 Junot endeavoured to induce them to submit by means of prcjinises, but 
 Avithout ell'ect. General Margaron, with 4000 men and a battery of 
 4th July, artillery, was then sent against them. On the 4th July he 
 1808. dispersed the patriots without difliculty, and then entered 
 
 the city, when a deliberate massacre of the unotfendiiig inhabitants took 
 place, attended with the greatest atrocity. 
 
 At Evora the standard of freedom was raised by General Leite, and 
 Kith July, 01^ the 16th July a Junta was Ibrmed to regulate the patriotic 
 1808. movements south of the Tagus. A body of troops was col- 
 
 lected in the vicinity of the town, but l)efore they were fully prepared 
 intelligence was received that Loison had crossed the Tagus and was 
 28th July, rapidly advancing with a column of 5000 men. On the 28th 
 1808. July, Loison appeared in front of Moutenior Noa'o, where a 
 
 body of patriots was posted. These hastily retired on Evora. A cry 
 
S7 
 
 tif truawm iirtw, aiul the |i(m|,1c Imcjiiuu imicli excited. SuHpicion loll 
 
 upon till! (.'(irrft,'i(lur, wim was supiioscd to Ik; plaviii^,' falsi'. Ho, to 
 
 I'MCiipe iKiimlar M'seiiliiii'iit, llcil I'nuii the city, (^rder wa.s iTHtored on 
 
 the arrival of a reinforcement i>f S|)jinish troops. On the '20lh ^.j^ j^j, , 
 
 July, General Leite, with nearly :iOOO men, took ui) a iMwition iiww.- 
 
 • <•.£•,!, T • .'.111- 1 KvMM tiikon 
 
 in Irniit ot till' town. Ijoi.-on attacked Inm with ^^reat eiier^'V, i«y tUu 
 
 and ordered CJeiieral Solij^nuc to turn the ri^lit, while ^Mar- '^"'"■' " 
 },'aron'H hri^jaile, divided into two bodies, assailed the front and left 
 Hank. The Portuguese iiiiantry made a ;;allant defence, hut were 
 iiverpoweivd. The cavalry alianihiiicd the field in shameful lli^dit. 
 The infantry retired on the town, where an attemjit at resistance was 
 a^'ain iniule, hnt nnsnccessfuUy. (leneral .Soli},'nac succeeded in forcin;,' 
 the place, after meeting a desperate resistance in the streets. The Spanish 
 anil Portui^'UiM' troojis eKoa]ied as best they could. Then commenced a 
 series of the most sanj^tiinary and atrocious cruelties that ever disj,'raced 
 the annals of war. An indiscriminate slanj^hter of the inhabitanta took 
 jthice ; no age or sex was spared, no sanctuary was respected ; the con- 
 vents were broken into, the churches were jiillaged, even the Blessed 
 Sacrament was taken from the tabernacles and trampled umler foot. 
 All who attempted lo escape from the town were cut down by the 
 cavalry placed outside. 800') Portuguese were killed or woundeil. 
 
 I'rom Kvoia, fjoison mavche<l to Elvas, to ilrive oif the Spanish troops 
 on that frontier, and to throw in a sui)i)ly of i)rovisions for j,,,)^,,,, „f, 
 the garrison. He then iiroceeded to Portalejire, in which ''jlvus itml 
 town he levied heavy contributions, but found some dilli- Kuk'liHU 
 culty in collecting them. He ordered live or six of the 
 ]irincipal inhabitants lo remain at the jialace where his heaihiuarters 
 were, to see that the money was duly paid according to lists he had 
 procured. While they were in the act of counting the money already 
 received, a desjiatch arrived announcing to him that the English had 
 landed. This unwelcome news came upon him like a thunder-clap. 
 The drums were instantly ordered to beat to arms, and the troops to 
 march immediately. The money still untold was hurriedly crammed 
 into bags, imd the principal inhabitants, wIkj had been detained in the 
 l)alace, were carried olf as hostages that the remaining part of the 
 contribution sliould be jiaid. He then '.eft the town, and proceeded 
 with his troops l)y forced marches to cross the 'J'agus to Abrantes. 
 
 When .lunot learned that the English had landed, he detached 
 (leneral de Laborde with two brigades of infantry, a f;e„c,.,ji d^ 
 
 regiment of cavalrv, and a brigade of artillerv, by Villa i-'ijui'io 
 
 " ./ ' ./ Kent to 
 
 Franca to Oondieiros, to watch the British forces and to watch tUo 
 prevent Loison's column from being cut oil'. Laborde, '"i^'"- 
 finding that Loison's corps was safe across the Tagus, and that the 
 
88 
 
 En<^li.sh army wan takiiij,' the coast road, piocoedud to Alcobaga, so as 
 to ^(',t l)L'tween llieiu aiul Loisoii, aii<l then to form a junction at Leiria 
 with Lciison, who with (M;,'lit tliousand men was cominj,' by forced 
 marches from Aluantcs. But the heat of the weather, the haste of 
 the march, the want of jtrovisions, and the liostility of the country 
 caused such numbers of his men to become exhausted that he was 
 detained on the road. Time was lost, and Sir Arthur Wellesley had 
 got possession of Leiria. Tlierefore Loison was obliged to change his 
 route to the southward, in order to endeavour to form a junction with 
 Laborde. 
 
 Junot concentrated his remaining forces at Lisbon, having withdrawn 
 all his posts to the south of the Tagus, except Palmela, 
 
 [LETTER BY COLONEL CHARLES LESLIE, K.II.] 
 
 To the Editor of the " United Stviicc Journal". 
 
 Thk 29th Regiment at R0L19A. 
 
 Mr. Editor, — In justice to a gallant old corps, I have to request that 
 you will i.nv(i the following statement a place in your most impartial 
 and excellent journal. 
 
 I observe with much regret, in Colonel Napier's work on the Penin- 
 sular War, several inaccuracies in the account which he gives 
 Uoliva. of the opcral ions of the 29th Regiment in the action of Roli9a. 
 
 Les'lio^s I'J ''•■ regiment jealous of its rejiutation, it is at all times a 
 
 tlie''"9th"^ matter of great interest that its deeds in arms should be fairly 
 
 Eeioment recorded, but infinitely more so that no misstatements, even 
 against .' ■,,■,,■, ■,. . .,. ,1. 
 
 Colonel by mistake, sliould be made tending to its jirejudice and uis- 
 
 ap»««"- advantixge. I feel confident Colonel Napier would not 
 
 willingly hurt the feelings, much less larnish the fame and blight the 
 
 laurels, of a corps which during several arduous campaigns distinguished 
 
 itself in every action that was fought, as testified by his Grace the Duke 
 
 of Wellington's general orders, when that regiment was sent a skeleton 
 
 from the field, in consequence of the severe losses it had sustained in the 
 
 numerous actions in which it had been engaged. 
 
 I have long wished that somebody more capable than myself would 
 
 have undertaken the task of correcting these mistakes. However, as no 
 
 abler advocate has yet ai)peared, and as the Colonel has since, in a reply 
 
 to General Brennier, called upon the ofiicers of the 29th to confirm or 
 
 deny the General's statement, wherein he attirms that he with only two 
 
 companies broke the 29th Regiment, I shall, by simply stating matters 
 
 of fact as they occurred, endeavour to show that both are mistaken, I 
 
8U 
 
 may add that, however iiiadoqunte to the task, I am entitled to do this 
 without much presuinptioii, Iiaviiij,' had tliu hoiiovii' and <^ood fortune to 
 serve in that gaUant corps diiriuy the whole period ol" their service in 
 the Peninsula. 
 
 I have the honour to remain. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Your Obedient Servant, 
 An Okficeu Late of the 29th Regiment. 
 
 Cork, Slat Avgust, ISSO. 
 
 Colonel Napier states that the 29th and 9th Regiments forced the 
 two strongest passes ; 
 
 That the 29th Regiment arrived first in disorder at the top ; 
 
 That ere tney could form, a French battalion broke through the 
 midst of them, slaying the Colonel and many oUiers, and making one 
 major and fifty or sixty men jirisoners. 
 
 I flatter myself that I shall satisfactorily i)rove, by the following 
 extract from a Journal kept at the time, tliat the Colonel has been mis- 
 informed when he makes the above assertions. 
 
PAET II.-1809. 
 
 Having at length recovered my health sufliciently to move, 
 Jan., 1809.- ^ procecdcd to the army depot at Belein, and 
 Bcieni. assumed the command of the detachment of the 
 29th Regiment there, consisting of several officers and about 
 160 men. Almost all the otlier regiments of the army lind left 
 convalescents there, besides all the baggage and women. 
 There were nearly 800 women there. 
 
 This motley assemblage was under the command of General 
 General Soutag, a German, a remarkably little man with a 
 sontag. remarkably large nose. It was said that he had been 
 employed by government on certain secret services, in wliicli he 
 had acquitted himself with great address. But a spy he never 
 could have been, as iio disguise could change his appearance. 
 Be that as it may he had rather a troublesome command, as 
 may easily be imagined, when it is considered that the majority 
 of his force consisted of women. These were quartered in a 
 barrack by themselves, under the charge of a few married 
 sergeants and men, who issued their rations, and were 
 anpwerable that they were all present, and locked up, every 
 night. Instructions having arrived that the most of these 
 women were to be sent to England, where on their arrival 
 each was to receive a guinea and have their expenses paid to 
 their own parishes, the General sent his aide-de-camp to 
 Women anuouncc the intelligence to them. They one and 
 rotuni to fi'll resisted. None would draw lots to decide who 
 "* ^^' were to go. The aide-de-camp said he would report 
 their conduct to the General. They shouted defiance, and 
 all swore that if he ventured to show his nose amongst 
 them again they would tear his wig off' and souse him under 
 the pump. 
 
 Belem is situated on the banks of the Tagus, about two 
 
01 
 
 miles below Lisbon, of which it may be deemed a faubourg. 
 It has rather an elegant appearance. It has a fortified castle 
 which commands the river, military barracks, handsome 
 public buildings and private houses, a magnificent convent, 
 and two royal palaces. When the French were here they 
 had seized all the pictures of any value that they could find, 
 and here they still remained in the packing-cases in which 
 they had packed them to send them to France, when we 
 detained them as public property. Even the royal aviary 
 did not escape the rapacity of the French. One of their 
 generals took possession of all its feathered inhabitants, and 
 when we were there it was empty. 
 
 I was fortunate in getting a tolerable billet. The pro- 
 prietor had been private secretary to one of the ministers, 
 and was particularly intelligent. I acquired much information 
 from him regarding the manner in which the French governed 
 Portugal during their occupation. 
 
 Eeports began to be circulated that the French army in 
 Spain had received large reinforcements, and that Napoleon 
 himself was expected or had arrived to take the command ; 
 and a few days afterwards it was whispered that the English 
 army was retiring. We were not left long in suspense. On 
 the 9th January, 1809, Major Eichard Egerton and ''*Y-Mth 
 Lieutenant Stanhope returned to Lisbon. They J^®^™"^* 
 informed us that the 29th Regiment, after having i^^^^- 
 reached the frontiers of Spain, had been obliged to retreat 
 because a column of the French army had advanced so far as 
 to intercept their communication with our army in the north, 
 and that consequently they had received orders to fall back 
 on Abrantes, and that all magazines and stores which could 
 not be brought off from Castello Branco and other depots 
 were ordered to be destroyed. The regiment arrived at 
 Lisbon on the 20th January, and were quartered 20th jim., 
 in the convents. The officers got billets in the Lisbon, 
 country. I marched next day with my detachment to join 
 the battalion. I had the good fortune to get an excellent 
 billet iu the Eua d'Ourize d'Ouro, in the house of a priest. 
 
92 
 
 This gcntleiiiiiii Wiis iui Italian. lie soomed to liavo some 
 indepeiKlonl iiicans of his own, and appeared to he more a 
 visitor at Lisbon than one of the ordinary clergy of the 
 place. He received mo most kindly, gave me a pretty 
 saloon, with a neat bedroom at one end, and insisted 
 on my breakfasting and dining with him every day. 
 He took me with him when he made his evening calls 
 on several noble families, and he procured opera tickets 
 for me. 
 
 We heard reports that the Spanish armies had been 
 defeated by the French, that Napoleon was at Madrid, 
 and that, consequently, our army, not having been supported 
 by the Spaniards, as was expected, was left exposed, and liable 
 to be pressed on all sides by an ovei whelming foe under 
 Bonaparte himself, and had been obliged to retreat. Soon 
 16th Jan.. afterwards the news arrived of the battle of Corunna, 
 Battle of fought IGtli January, which victory proved what 
 
 ConiMiia. " *" 1 , 
 
 EnjfUsh British soldiers can do under the most adverse 
 
 army 
 
 embarks. circumstauces, and added to the glory of our 
 arms. But from the untoward events which had occurred, 
 the only alternative left was to end)ark, which the army 
 successfully accomplished, without leaving even a gun as a 
 trophy in the hands of the enemy. 
 
 The certainty that our army had returned to England 
 proved rather a damper to us. It was provoking to think 
 that the laurels we had gained were now likely to prove 
 fruitless. We dreaded being ordered home also. Affairs 
 assumed a most gloomy aspect, and rumours were rife that 
 the French were threatening to invade Portugal with a large 
 force, and that Marshal Victor was at Alcantara with a corps 
 ready to advance against 1 ^"sbon. IJeports were also spread 
 that we intended to abandon the Portuguese, so that we were 
 looked upon with great suspicion. They had lost much 
 confidence in the British owing to the Convention of 
 Cintra, and the unfortunate results of Sir John Moore's 
 operations in Spain tended to increase their want of con- 
 fidence. 
 
In consequence of tlie failure of Sir John Moore in Spain, 
 groat gloom and consternation prevailed in Portugal, Disappoint- 
 particularly as it was known that Bonaparte was at i>',?rtuK'«o. 
 Madrid concerting measures lor the entire sul>ju- ^■"'"""-''-''■''• 
 gatix)n of both countries. Napoleon, however, dreading the 
 warlike preparations of Austria, sudd-^nly left Madrid 22ml Jun. 
 on the 22nd January, and took the Imperial Uuard ^^^' 
 with him to France. The citizens of Lisbon were fonning 
 themselves into volunteer regiments of various descriptions, 
 some as infantry, othos as cavahy or artillery, or light corps. 
 After their business of the day was over and their shops were 
 closed, they used to diill in all the public sc^uares. Besides 
 occupying the citadel we liad strong posts in several parts of 
 the city, and inlying piquets every night ready to turn out at 
 a moment's warning, bi^sides patrols. 
 
 The 29th Iti'giment, having received drafts of men from 
 England, and most of the wounded n)en having returned to 
 their duty, became once more a most elective corps. It was 
 received by the Commander-in-Chief, Sir John Crad- 27th jan 
 dock, in the Itocea Square on the 27th Jaimary, and ^'^""• 
 he gave it his most un(|ualitied praise for the high state of 
 discipline it displayed and the soldier-like appearance of the 
 men. Two days afterwards, it was our turn to give the 
 guards for the day. The usmd grand guard mounting had 
 taken place, and just as every man was tiling off to his 
 respective post, the halt was sounded, and verbal orders were 
 given that everyone should repair t(j his barrack, instead of 
 going to his post, and that the regiment had received orders 
 to be in readiness to embark at a moment's notice. We 
 all, of course, hastened to our quarters, and as none of 
 us was encumbered with much luggage, we soon had our 
 tiaps in movable o)der, ready for anything. Our destination 
 was kept a secret, and we could form no conjecture what 
 it might be. 
 
 The force destined for the secret service, consisting of the 
 29th, 27th, and 9th IJegiments, and a brigade of artillery 
 under the orders of General Sir George Smith and General 
 
04 
 
 Mackenzie, embarked at eight o'clock on the morning of the 
 , , . , 31st January. Tho dcijartiin! of this small oxiKHlition 
 
 '**"'•'• nearly produced a serious comiuotion in Lishon. 
 
 The people being aware that our army had retired from Spain, 
 and had returned to England, were led to suppose that all the 
 English troops in Portugal were also going away, and thus 
 abandon them to the mercy of another French army. They 
 rose in a tumultuous manner, and endi-uvoured to stop all our 
 baggage. 
 
 The convoy sailed from the Tagus on the 2nd February, 
 2nd Feb 1801). We tlicu loamcd that we were intended to 
 Hc^mont^ sccurc Cadiz, which, it appeared, was then threat- 
 ti'm going'' ened by the French. We arrived there on the 5th 
 toCadiR. February, and came to anchor in the harbour. The 
 Governor declined our assistance, and we were not permitted 
 6th Feb. to \m\\i)i. In this refusal lie was supported by a 
 iuowwf"* party who were in the French interest. But the 
 to land. inhabitants in general and the merchants were most 
 anxious that we should garrison the place, as it was known 
 that a column of 5000 French, favoured by some Spanish 
 traitors, were secretly approaching with a view to surprise 
 this important city. They likewise discovered that all the 
 cannon on the walls pointing to the land side were loaded 
 with sand. This confirmed the suspicion of the people, and 
 brought matters to a crisis. A connuotion arose between the 
 two parties. The captain of the port, accused of being a 
 partisan of the French, was killed. All the people armed 
 themselves, frequent skirmishes took place between the 
 parties, and many lives were lost. These troubles were 
 attended with considerable effect. They put the Governor on 
 his mettle. The place was put in a proper state of defence, 
 and the French, finding their object foiled, gave up the 
 attempt and retired. But the Governor still entertained the 
 absurd notion that we would take possession of Cadiz and 
 retain it, as we had done Gibraltar. Although the troops 
 ■were not allowed to land, yet the officers individually were 
 permitted to go on shore, and were on all occasions received 
 
9A 
 
 witli great enthusiasm by the people. The Governor's 
 iipprelu'Dsions nnd dread of our j^ainin*,' an entrance continued 
 unal>at(Ml ; und wiien General Sir George .Sniitli, wlio com- 
 manded the expedition, died after a sliort ilhiess, only one 
 company was allowed to land to attend his funeral, and the 
 men ^ver(! permitted only to have side-arms. Wiule we were 
 detained here waiting for further orders, we managed to make 
 our abode on board the transports as agreeable as circum- 
 sLances would permit. We lived remarkably well ; provisions 
 and poultry were iilentiful and cheap, green peas and other 
 vegetables were in high perfection even at this early season, 
 most excellent sherry was to be had at about ninepence a 
 1 Kittle, besides a numerous variety of other wines. Nor did 
 lime pass heivily. Uoating was a favourite amusement and 
 Ity this means a friendly intercourse was constantly kept up 
 with the other vessels, visits being paid and returned. In 
 tlie evening we went on shore to stroll on the Alameida, or to 
 attend the tiieatre. 
 
 As to my.self, I found it particularly agreeable. My 
 gallant friend, Captain Sir Jami^s Gordon, who was sir Jtmios 
 then in command of the line frigate Active, being ""'^^'"»- 
 there, I used to go on board to dine with him. One day I 
 met there my old acijuaintance, his brother, John Gordon, the 
 great wine nieichant of Xeres, and his father-in-law. Monsieur 
 Bigbeder. Captaiii Gordon also introduced me to the Honour- 
 able Mrs. Eawdon and her daughter, who were on their travels, 
 and to whom he had offered a passage in his frigate to 
 England. 
 
 On the 12th February, I paid a visit to Tort St. Mary, 
 and saw the Gordons. I found the place dull and joth Feb 
 stupid. '«""• 
 
 About this time we heard that Zaragoza had succumbed 
 to a siege of two months' duration, and that the zanigoz» 
 garrison had made the most gallant resistance on ''""'""^'^'■'*- 
 record. 
 
 Notwithstanding the discouraging events which had 
 happened in Spain, the British Government determined to 
 
support by fresh exertions tlio nol)le cause of liberty in the 
 reninsula. Tn the tirst ])hmi, the (Icfence of Tortufjal was 
 decided on. Sir Arthur Wt'llesley was appointed to resume 
 the command of the army, and roinforcemcnts were announced 
 as being on th(Mr way fi-om Kiiifland. f Jeneral Bcresford was 
 appointed commander-in-chief of the Portuguese army. Sir 
 Robert Wilson organised a corps of Portuguese troops from 
 the Lusitanian Legion at Oporto, and with this body acting as 
 partisans he occupied a line of ])()stH along the Spanish fron- 
 tier near Almeida, and kept open the comnmnications with 
 Cindad Eodrigo. 
 
 Reports were circulated in February that Marshal Soult 
 Marshal ^^^^ preparing to invade the nortii of Portugal from 
 So tialicia with 24,000 infantry, 4000 cavalry, and 60 
 
 Pouinsuia. guns, and that General Lapisso was to co-operato 
 with him by Almeida, and Cleneral Victor by Alcantara and 
 the line of the Tagus. In the beginning of March we learned 
 that Soult had entered Portugal, and was directing his march 
 on Opoito, We were aware that that city had been prepared 
 for defence, a line of works having been established to cover 
 the line from the Douro to the sea, and was well supplied 
 with cannon, and that a large garrison and the armed popula- 
 tion were determined to make a second Zaragoza of it. So 
 at least said the I'ortuguese, 
 
 Soult continued to advance, but his march was not so 
 rapid as he wished. The peasants and militia were anxious 
 to oppose him, and because General Freire wished to retire 
 on a strong position, they accused him of treason and mur- 
 dered him. Baron d'Eben, a German, holding an English 
 commission in the Lusitanian Legion, succeeded him in the 
 command of this undisciplined force. Soult attacked him and 
 defeated him with great slaughter. The French then pushed 
 26th March ^^ ^^^ Oporto, whicli they reached 2Gth March, and 
 1809. carried by assault three days afterwards. The 
 
 military abandoned the defence and iled, and the inhabitants, 
 seized with terror, took flight also. All hastened pell-mell to 
 the bridge over the Douro, pursued by the enemy, cutting 
 
07 
 
 tluMu (l(t\\n ill all diicclidiis. Tin; fuf^itives <,'(•( jiiimiicd on 
 till! bvi(l<,'i' ; S(tiii(' were piislu'd dviir, ikhic could iulviinco, ami 
 the French ki')tl plyinj; thcni with <,'raiK! nnd musketry. 
 They told us that several thousands of the inhabitants were 
 cither killed or drowned. 
 
 Disastrous news also reached us from Spain. Sebastian!, 
 wo were told, had defeated the S))aniards under Cartoajal at 
 Ciudad Real, and Marshal Victor had defeated the army of 
 Kstramadnra under Cuesta. 
 
 After remaining neaily five weeks at Cadi/, pent up on 
 hoard our trans])()rt',, we at length received ordeis to fith Miinh, 
 return to Lisbon. The convoy sailed on the Oth Kx|.^diti<m 
 
 rctiiniH to 
 
 March, 1809, and alter a stormy passaf^e we once i^i"!"'". 
 more anchored in the Tagus on the 12th. We disembarked 
 next day, and the men were (piartered in a convent, and the 
 oHicers in billets. We were all delighted to get on terra 
 firma again, and no wonder, when it is recollected that from 
 the time we sailed from rortsmouth last year to the present 
 time we had been nearly nine months out of fourteen on 
 board ship. 
 
 The person on wliom I got a billet having rather a small 
 house and a large family, procured rooms for me at a hotel. 
 Many of the officers of the 87th, or IJoyal Irish, Ifegiment lived 
 at this hotel, where they all messed. They had a grand gala 
 on the 17th March, St. Patrick's Diiy, which they kept up till 
 an early hour next morning. There was a constant roinid of 
 toasts and cheers, alleviated with songs and the band playing 
 national airs, nmch to the surpiise and amusement of the 
 Portuguese, who had congregated in vast numbers under the 
 windows. 
 
 The sudden recal of our E.xpedition from Cadiz was now 
 readily accounted for. It appeared that in con- Kii«ii»h 
 sequence of the unfortunate termination of Sir John defend*" 
 Moore's campaign in Spain, Marshal Soult had been *''"■*"«'*'• 
 enabled to enter Portugal with 20,000 men, and was already 
 in possession of Oporto. Great alarm prevailed at Lisbon. 
 Exaggerated reports were spread that Soult was pushing on, 
 
 7 
 
98 
 
 011(1 would soon siuk lli(^ on]titiil. It ap])onr('(l tlint wo wore 
 (lott'niiiiM'd (o defend l'ortn;L;id if jmssiltle, nnd the Coin- 
 inniidcr-iii-Cliief lost no lime in niid<in^ siicli necessary 
 (liHpoHJtions I'or tliiit ])niiK».sc as the small forte and iMCsent 
 circunislances would iiennit, while waiting' for relnf'orcenumts 
 wliich report staled were eouiin*,' from Knj^land. Our whole 
 force in l*or(uj,'al did not consist of more than 7<I0() men. 
 In addition to the re^idar ree;in>ents two i)r»tvisional battalions 
 were formed from llie men at the depot at J'.elem. These 
 consisted of woundc^d or sick men helon;j;injf to the regiments 
 which had gone to Spidn, and of stragglers from the army 
 who had found their way back to Portugal. 
 
 Our little i.rmy marched on the ISth March, and took up 
 i8tu Mnrcii, ('•'iiitonments in the beautiful villag(!S of Loires, 
 ^*'''' Lnmear, and others adjacent, about eleven njiles 
 
 iiorth-east of Lisbon. 
 
 This is one of the linest parts of Tortugal, biiing in a high 
 PorniKticHo stiite of cidtivation, and the country sufficiently 
 KimiuuM. undulating to give it a very ]>icture.s(pie ai>l)ear- 
 nnce. The high road from Lisbon is studded on either side 
 with numerous villas, surrounded with gardens, orange-groves, 
 and vineyard.s. The L*ortuguese are excellent gardener's, and 
 in this warm climate, where much artificial moisture is re- 
 quisite, they manag(( the system of irrigation with great 
 skill. They always select, when possible, ground which has 
 a declivity or slope, on the highest portion of which they 
 have a marble fountain, with a tank or reservoir of water, 
 generally from 20 to 30 feet square and some fi-^t deep. 
 From this the water is conducted morning and evening by 
 longitudinal furrows, intersected by cross ones leading down- 
 wards to the next one, to every plot and border in the garden, 
 and from thence to the orange-grove, which is always open 
 ground, well cleared of weiids. The orange-trees at this sea- 
 son are truly beautiful, being covered with green, yellowish, 
 and deep golden fruit, according to their degree of ripeness, 
 interpersed with pure white blossoms, all variegated with the 
 deep rich verdant shining leaves. Nothing can be more 
 
09 
 
 u^'icijiildy (lL'li:;liiriil lliiin to stinll in the t'lcsli uf llic iiinni- 
 in^' in these j^tovcs. The ^'KhiikI, liehij^' coveicd like snow 
 with the lalK'n hldsscinis, inijtart.s a hahny tVn}j;anrti to tho 
 surrounilin*; atinoMj»here, Then it is (U'lieionM t<i enjoy tho 
 hixury of a refreshing cold hath in the pure crystalline waters 
 of the spacions tanks, ])rotectc(l from the soorchinj,' rays of tho 
 niornin;,' snn l»y the jtleasini^ shade of j^'entle weepiiij^'-willows, 
 which are always an a]>|)enda^'o to the fonntains. 
 
 I had the j^uod fortune to <ret one of those villas assif,'ned 
 as quarters for our coiupany. The men oc('n])ieil the lower 
 part and out-otliees. The proprietor had removed the ^'reater 
 part of th(! furniture to Lisbon, leavin,ij; only a few tables, 
 chairs, bedsteads, and some cookim,' utensils. iUit this was 
 of no consequence, because, ])r'ui>^ so luiar liisbon, we got at n 
 cheaj) rate every necessary or luxury tin* town or country 
 could alTord. We formed a mess at the house of a baker in 
 tlu, villa<i;e, who made j)ies and puddinj^s in p-eat piufection. 
 
 While livin.Lj; in tiusse pleasant cantomnents in seeming 
 quietness, I had reason to know that tho heads of noiwu 
 deitartments looked for the exi^ected reinforcements Kr«!"cu 
 
 wero 
 
 with great anxiety. It was reported freely that the iiavanciiiK. 
 French were atlvancing, iind had such been the case, we would 
 have been in an awkward ])redicament, as our small 
 force would not have been sulUcient even to make a show of 
 resistance. Indeed, we understood that, in the event of the 
 enemy ])ushing on, a plan was arranged for our embarkation 
 at ('astoes J»ay, where some fiidd-works were to have been 
 thrown up to cover our retreat. The Fninch must certainly 
 have had very bad iidbiination not to have advanced on us 
 while we wero in this helpless slate. 
 
 The British Government, seeing that hostilities were 
 likely to be resumed between France an<l Austria, decided on 
 renewing operations in the Peninsula, and hence they deter- 
 mined to increase the army at Lisijon. To the great satis- 
 faction of all, large reinforcements at length arrived, the first 
 under General .Sherbrooke, and in April another under General 
 Hill. Everyone appeared re.is3Ure,(|..'. \Ve all looked forward 
 .'•■'• • . ' • • • • ■ . ' . ' . 
 
10(1 
 
 with ,<,Mcat ardour to the opening of a now campaign. Nor 
 was our own ariiiy aloiif restorod to a figliting condition. It was 
 determined to reorganise and discipline the army of our 
 friends tiie Portuguese, which, as formerly mentioned, had 
 Mnrsiiai ^^^c" hrokeii u}) by the French. Cfencral Sir William 
 offioor'r'' ^''^1"'' Beresford was announced as being appointed 
 voiuutoor. Commander-in-Chief of the Tortuguese army, with 
 the rank of field-marshal, and ollicers from our army were 
 allowed to volunteer into that .service with the understanding 
 that they were to get a step of jiromotion in it. This was 
 understood to be an advantageous ofler. Our captain availed 
 liimself of it, and in accepting it becanu> a major and a field- 
 olllcer, and many ftdlowed his example. Ihit for me, who 
 was then only a young subaltern, the prospect did not seem 
 so brilliant. I should probaljly only have been a super- 
 numerary captain. T.esides, I deemed that the Portuguese 
 force would not be in an efficient state to take the field for 
 some time. Hence I did not (piit my own regiment, which 
 was on the eve of being actively employed against the enemy. 
 Perhaps 1 was wrong, but such at the moment was the feeling 
 of all the ofHcers of our corps. 
 
 Marshal l>eresford established his headquarters at Tliomar. 
 All our arrangements for taking the field being completed, 
 dispositions were made for our advance on Coimbra, This 
 was do.ie by the army marching by brigades in succession, 
 and by difl'erent })arallel routes, for the greater convenience 
 of procuring provisions and quarters. 
 
 We commenced the campaign on the 8th April, 1809, by 
 8tu April marching to Ikicellos. The men were billeted on the 
 cdmmciico iidiabitaiits, and I and three other officers were 
 mS'u>'" quartered in one house. Bucellos is a neat small 
 uucouos. country town, situated in a valley between ranges 
 of heights in front and rear. These ranges are highly culti- 
 vated, being covered with vineyards producing the excellent 
 wine called Bucellos. We visited several of the cellars. 
 The wine is kept in casks or tuns of very large dimensions. 
 We saw it in .djll>.reut imitates of prepfv-atio'i,- both for home 
 
101 
 
 consumption and for the English market. The new wine 
 previoustc being fined appeared sonielliing like wla^y. That lor 
 Lisbon was of a clear amber colonr, rich and mellow, while that 
 for London, being well dosed with brandy, was strong and liery. 
 
 After remaining three days at Bucellos, we marcheil on 
 the 11th April to Sobral de Monte Agra(^'o, On the 
 13th we moved to Marciana, and next day to "w.-"^'' 
 Cadevale, both but indilYerent vilhiges, through a N.iimiao 
 well-cultivated country, and the weather was re- A^'ni<jomia 
 markably fine. We reached the fashionable watering- 
 place of Caldas on the 15th, after having been completely 
 drenched with torrents of rain. However, I got an excellent 
 billet, and availed myself of the warm baths. The bath iu 
 which I bathed was like a large saloon with a cupola roof. 
 The bath was an oblong square, about three feet deep, and 
 had small dressing-rooms all round. The water was of a 
 bluish-green colour, and you could see it bubble up through 
 the sandy bottom. It was so warm that on my entering it 
 rather hastily it made my nose bleed. From this the water 
 passes to another bath for poor invalids, and after that it runs 
 into a place in the open air for horses and other aninuils. 
 
 I took advantage of our halting at Caldas to make a 
 pilgrimage to the Heights of Kolii^'a, of such glorious „„,, 
 memory to our regiment. The tliiy unfortunately '■'-■^''''''^''• 
 proved dull and misty, and was consequently very unfavour- 
 able for a proper inspection of the whole position. How- 
 ever, I went step for step over the grouud and up the steep 
 ravine, which had been so daringly forced. It was melancholy 
 to observe the bones, hair, and pieces of uniform of our brave 
 comrades and gallant enemies lying strewed about, liavenous 
 wolves had scratched up the graves of friend and foe, and 
 had devoured the remains. Although eight months had 
 elapsed since the action, there were quantities of French 
 shakos, pieces of broken muskets and other arms lying 
 .about. Our regiment had a memorial monumental stone, 
 with a suitable inscription on it, ei-ected here in menjory of 
 our gallant Colonel Lake, to mark the spot where he fell. A 
 
handsoiuo monument was also erected in Westminster Abbey. 
 Both of these were defrayed by subscription of so many 
 days' pay from officers and men. 
 
 It being certain that Marshal Soult had pushed his 
 advance posts across the Douro, and reports of the enemy's 
 advancing being rife, we began here at Caldas to establish out- 
 20th April, pi<iuets. We moved on the 20tli April to Alcoba^o, 
 March" to rather a long march. After leaving the vicinity of 
 Monastery Caldas, tlio road passes through a dreary pine wood, 
 there. Qj^ ^ white saudy soil, for some miles, and then over 
 
 some steep heights, down to the vale of Alcobac^o. Part of the 
 troops were quartered in the grand convent. The monks, who 
 were all of noble families, invited all the generals and officers 
 to dinner. This monastery is a superb building, and was one 
 of the richest in Portugal. It had a valuable library and 
 splendid saloons, such as the Sala dos Pees. The kitchen 
 was of great dimensions. The walls were lined with glazed 
 tiles, which gave it a light and elegant appearance. It was 
 fitted up with every attention to cleanliness and utility. 
 Besides the dressers of wood, there were others with white 
 marble slabs. There were one or two fountains of spring- 
 water in it, and at one end a stream of water from the river 
 Alco runs througli, and serves to carry off all refuse. 
 
 I and three other oflicers were quartered in an excellent 
 house. The proprietor very hospitably invited us to dine 
 with him, but not wishing to give him trouble, we declined. 
 However, he pressed us very much, and overcame our scruples 
 by saying to us, " Come, you shall eat your own dinner. 
 Give me your rations, and let me cook them for you." This 
 he did, and many additions he made to the king's own, and 
 plenty of excellent wine of a choice vintage he gave us. 
 
 Next day, the 21st April, we proceeded to Batalha, a 
 21st April, village of no great size, but very remarkable for its 
 Bauiha. magnificent monastery and church. In a side chapel 
 Leina. ^^ ^^^ church, Separated by a curious screen of beau- 
 tiful fretwork, in a splendid tomb raised on four stops, and 
 with a movable lid, lies the body of King John IV., father of 
 
103 
 
 Katherine of Braganza, Queen of Charles IF. of England, 
 dressed in his robes of state. His hands form a .St. Andrew's 
 cross upon his breast. I'eing embalmed, the whole was in a 
 high state of preservation. I'lie features of his face were as 
 perfect as on the day he died (1G55). His suit of armour, 
 two-edged sword of an enormous size, and his battle-axe, 
 with his scutcheon, and coat-of-arms, are suspended on one of 
 the side walls. The monks invited the oflicers to dinner. 
 
 We marched on the 22nd April to Leiria, a distance of 
 two leagues, principally through olive-groves. This 22n(iApra, 
 is rather a pretty country town, and has a pic- ^'^^' 
 turesque appearance, being nearly surrounded by a range of 
 swelling hills, intersected with charming valleys, all higldy 
 cultivated with vineyards, olive-groves, and studded with 
 numerous villas and gardens ; while the old Moorish castle 
 perched on a rocky lieight eonnnanding the town has a fine 
 effect. Lower down is the Episcopal palace, of large dimen- 
 sions, but of no particular elegance. The cathedral, however, 
 is a structure of some note, and the public hospital is a fine 
 and commodious building. Here the corps of the army, which 
 had marched by different routes, concentrated. We were 
 billetted on the inliabitants, and the artillery were posted 
 in the Eoceo, or large public square. We heaixl reports that Sir 
 Arthur Wellesley liad been appointed again as Com- sir Arthur 
 mander-in-Chief of our army, and that he had landed appointed tu 
 at Lisbon on the 22nd April. This was confirmed '^"'"'°*" • 
 by general orders on the 25th April. The news was hailed 
 with great satisfaction, not but that Sir Jolni Craddock, our 
 present General, was an excellent man, but Sir Arthur having 
 already proved a successful General, was a greater favourite, 
 in whom all seemed to have the most perfect confidence. Sir 
 John Craddock was displaced so far in an honourable way 
 that he was appointed Governor of Gibraltar, then esteemed 
 a post of the utmost importance. But this certainly did not 
 reconcile him to giving up the command of an active force in 
 the field, which appeared evident from his general orders in 
 taking leave of the army. 
 
104 
 
 Wo understood that our forces amounted to nearly 30,000 
 men. Sir Arthur Wellesley was likewise appointed a 
 Marshal, and Connnander-in-Chi3f of the Portuguese forces, 
 and was invested with the sup"(Mne command. From this 
 time a new impulse was given to our hitherto tardy operations. 
 Decision and energy became apparent. General Mackenzie 
 was detached with a corps of 4000 men towards Abrantes to 
 watch the Tagus, and Marshal Beresford was sent with another 
 corps to act on the upper Douro. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 29th April we received sudden 
 29th Apru., Orders to march to Pombal. This seemed to 
 MarciTto Corroborate current reports that the enemy had 
 Pombal. made a move forward. After a tedious march of 
 five leagues through rather a desolate country, we arrived 
 very late at Pombal, the approach to which is by a fine road 
 through low ground, having rows of poplars on each side. 
 The town is rather a neat place. It is commanded by a 
 range of heights, on which stands an ancient Moorish castle. 
 On the west side the land is flat and swampy. 
 
 We marched next day, passing through pine- woods, 
 March to o^cr somc heights to Redenhan, and then on to 
 condeixa. Coudei.xa, in all about four leagues. 
 
 On the 1st May we proceeded through an undulating 
 istMay, country, finely cultivated, to Coimbra, about two 
 March to Icagucs. The men and most of the officers were 
 Coimbra. quartered in the convents of monks. I and three or 
 four other officers got a billet on a canon of the cathedral. 
 He had an excellent house, fitted up with many English 
 comforts. He was a gentlemanlike person, and very liberal. 
 He insisted on giving us our dinner every day. We made 
 him, however, take our rations, to which he added many 
 capital dishes, confections, dessert, and wine. 
 
 Coimbra is the Oxford of Portugal. Here the young 
 men of all ranks, and from all parts of the country, resort 
 to study at the university, which possesses great celebrity in 
 the country. Coimbra is a charming place. The view of the 
 town from the hill in approacliing from the Condeixa side is 
 
105 
 
 truly ninguificent. It is situated on a sloping hill on the right 
 bank of the Mondego. The cathedral and numerous churches 
 with their spires, the convents, the university and other 
 superb public buildings, the clean white private houses, with 
 their verdant gardens and terraces, form a fine and pleasing 
 effect, enhanced by the surrounding scenery. The river 
 Mondego dashing out from between stupendous banks, on 
 each side richly cultivated, passes close under the town, 
 where there is a bridge. At some distance below this the 
 valley opens and spreads out into an extensive plain, called 
 the Campi, and celebrated by Camoens for its salubrity. 
 Through this plain the Mondego glides gently along, now a 
 lazy stream. 
 
 The people were much delighted to see us. They had for 
 some time past been in constant dread of a visit from the 
 French ; indeed, so much so that the university, the grand 
 library, the archives, the observatory, the laboratory, and the 
 valuable museum were all in a dismantled state, all the valu- 
 able articles being packed up ready for removal in case the 
 enemy had pushed on, The colleges were all empty. The 
 students had very gallantly formed themselves into two light 
 corps, under Colonel Traut. 
 
 On the 3rd May our favourite Commander-in-Chief arrived. 
 Tlie Grenadiers of the 29th liegiment had the dis- 3rd May, 
 tinguished honour of being selected to form the Arthur 
 
 1 c 1 • n • -TT- Wellesley 
 
 guard or honour to receive him. His entry was arrives, 
 quite a triumphal march, thousands having turned out to 
 meet him. 
 
 Things began to look warlike. We knew that the French 
 had begun to push their advance-guard forward, and were 
 two or three days' march in front of Oporto. We were all on 
 the qui vivc. Our outposts were increased, and were main- 
 tained day and night ; we had also strong inlying ^^j^y 
 piquets. The army was rearranged. Some of the '■•^organised, 
 best disciplined Portuguese regiments, which had English 
 officers attached to them, were now incorporated into our 
 army, one battalion being in general placed in each of our 
 
lOfi 
 
 brigades. The 16th Portuguese Eegiinent, under Colonel 
 John Milh)y Doyle, was placed in our brigade, which now 
 consisted of the 29th Keginient, tlie 16th Portuguese, 
 and the 1st Provisional liattalion of detachuients, com- 
 prised of parties of the 28th, 38th, and 92nd Kegiments, 
 the 43rd and 52nd Light Infantry, and the 95th Kitie 
 Corps. 
 
 We understood that the plan of operations would be the 
 run of following: — Sir Arthur Wellesley was to advance 
 operations. ^[^001 ou Oporto, to attack the enemy in front, 
 while a corps under Marshal Beresford, consisting of Major- 
 General Tilson's Brigade, the 87th and 88th Pveginients, and 
 some squadrons of cavalry, was to proceed by Yizen to cross 
 the Douro, and, in conjunction with the Portuguese under 
 Silveira, to turn the left flank of the enemy and to operate 
 in his rear. Another corps under Major-General Mackenzie, 
 consisting of the 27th, 31st, and 45th Eegiments, a brigade 
 of cavalry, and some thousands of Portuguese, were posted at 
 Abrantes and Santan.'m, to protect the line of the Tagus 
 against Victor, having the Lusitanian Legion and some 
 Portuguese militia at Alcantara in his front, under Colonel 
 Mayne. 
 
 On the 5th ]May Sir Arthur Wellesley reviewed the united 
 army of the British and Portuguese forces in the Campo de 
 Mondego. We learned from the Portuguese that Soult was 
 still at Oporto, but that his advance-guard was at Oliveira, 
 and his outposts extended to the Vouga. 
 
 The first preliminary to the opening of the campaign was 
 the formation of the advance-guard, consisting of our brigade, 
 the 29th Eegiment, the 16th Portuguese, and one battalion of 
 detachments, under Brigadier-General Eichard Stuart, the 
 14th and 16th Light Dragoons under Sir Stapleton Cotton, 
 with a brigade of artillery. This corps was pushed on to feel 
 for the enemy, and marched on the 7th May to Mangaforaz. 
 A division under General Hill marched on a parallel road 
 along the coast leading from Aviera and Ovar to Oporto, in 
 order to turn the enemy's right Hank. 
 
107 
 
 We moved on next morninf,', and passed through Agnada 
 ti) Muveska, a small viHiige near the left bank of the Approach 
 \ ouga, J)cmg r.jw willini a league ot the enemy s outinusu. 
 itdvauced corps, the strength of our piquets was increased, 
 and patrols uf discovery were sent out lo observe the enemy, 
 while the whole force had orders to be ready to stand to their 
 arms at a moment's notice. We, however, passed the night 
 in tranquillity, and to our surprise remained inactive all the 
 following day, the 9th May, as we anticipated that ^^b May, 
 something was about to take place, being aware that ^****''' 
 the piquets had received orders not to allow any of the in- 
 habitants to pass over towards the enemy. As evening 
 advanced, we gave up all hopes of moving forwards, and had 
 lain down in our cloaks to get some rest. About midnight, 
 however, we w ^-e awakened by the orderly-sergeants, wlio 
 came to tell us tliat we were to get under arms, with as little 
 noise as possible— no bugles to sound, or drums to beat — and 
 to march immediately. 
 
 We now understood that wo were about to endeavour to 
 surprise the enemy's advance-guard, under General Fran- 
 cesche. We accordingly marched in great silence, and 
 crossed the river at the Ponte de Vouga. The night was 
 intensely dark, and we kept groping our way with some 
 difficulty, and at last can\e to a stand-still. During this an 
 order was passed from the head of the column, " Send Lieu- 
 tenant Leslie to the front". I accordingly proceeded up as 
 fast as I could, and found that my services were required to 
 act as interpreter. Tlie chiefs, the brigadier and his staff, 
 were puzzled, not being able properly to understand the 
 Portuguese guides, or to explain to tliem the route it was 
 wished to take. I soon put matters to riglits, and we again 
 proceeded. The road was extremely bad, and we had not got 
 very far when we were brought to a halt, as it appeared that 
 the artillery had missed their way. While so detained I 
 crept up a bank on the roadside to rest, and soon lothMay, 
 went fast asleep. It was near daybreak on the ^'**^''' 
 morning of the 10th when we began to move again. We 
 
108 
 
 reached Albergaria Nova about dawn, but the enemy had 
 tied an hour before, leaving a few sick men and lame horses, 
 and occupied a wood at no great distance. We pushed on 
 through the village and entered an extensive plain. Our 
 cavalry, under Sir Stapleton Cotton, were formed in order of 
 battle in two lines to the left of the road, while our light 
 troops and the battalion of Portuguese students pushed on to 
 feel for the enemy. Some warm skirmishing soon com- 
 menced, and a few pieces of artillery got up to support our 
 men. The enemy made no stand, but retired, keeping up 
 their fire. We continued to follow them closely up, drove 
 them rapidly through the town of Oliveira, and ^ook some 
 baggage and provisions. They, however, took up a position 
 just outside the town, where some of their advance-guard had 
 had a bivouac. We were halted in the streets, waiting until 
 the whole of our artillery could come up, previous to attack- 
 ing them. While lying on our arms in this manner, a person 
 asked me if we would like the church bells to be rung to 
 celebrate our arrival. I said, " By all means, if you choose 
 to do so ". No sooner said than done. In a few minutes all 
 the bells struck up a merry peal, and presently the people 
 came to tell us that the French had fled. Whether this was 
 caused by the loyal display, or b'- other reasons, I know not, 
 but certain it is that they retired to a more respectful distance. 
 Our outposts were placed close up to theirs, so that the hostile 
 sentries were within half musket-shot of each other. 
 
 We occupied the French bivouac, which was laid out in 
 the most tasteful manner. The huts were arranged in regular 
 streets, many of them being adorned with evergreens round 
 them, and devices cut out in the grass, such as " Vive 
 I'Empereur!" "Vive la France!" &c., and all were well provided 
 with tables, chairs, and cooking utensils, brought out from the 
 Portuguese houses in the town. Tliis had been a sort of 
 permanent outpost. 
 
 The French exercised great cruelties in order to strike 
 ouveira. terror into the inhabitants, and to prevent them 
 from acting agiiinst them. We observed near the entrance 
 
109 
 
 of Oliveira tliree bodies linnpng on one tree. On inquiring, 
 the people told us that tliev were the priest, the chief 
 nin<^istrate, and the town-clerk. I'liis atrocity was coniniitted 
 because the people had gallantly encountered a French 
 reconnoitering party, the coniniandinrj officer of which had 
 been killed in the skirmish. The Portuguese ])ensant8 
 merited the greatest praise for their patriotism. They, as 
 ordinazas, or resident militia, had enjcted tire-beacons on all 
 conspicuous points, and along the road from CoiniGi'a up to 
 the nearest French outposts. Each of these beacons was 
 guarded by armed parties ready to set fire to it, and thus give 
 notice to the rear the moment the French advanced in force. 
 This precluded the enemy from getting any accurate accounts 
 of our movements. These brave people had no uniform, and 
 were but badly armed, some having only old muskets and 
 others pistols. 
 
 We were under arms long before daybreak next morning, 
 the 11th May. Our piquets reportetl soon after dawn that 
 the enemy had disappeared from their front. "We imme- 
 diately advanced in pursuit, but they had got the start of us 
 so much that we saw nothing of them until we reached a 
 wood about ten miles farther on. Then we observed the 
 enemy's advanced posts. Two companies of the 29th Regi- 
 ment, to one of which I was attached, were thrown into the 
 wood on the right of the road, as a patrol of discovery, and 
 also as a flanking party to protect the Hank of the advanced 
 column, by clearing the wood of any parties of the enemy. 
 We had a Portuguese guide with us, and I acted as inter- 
 preter. We extended a subdivision, and advanced in skir- 
 mishing order, but the enemy's party withdrew guinnish- 
 without any resistance. We, however, held the ^"*'" 
 wood until we were relieved by ritlemen of the German 
 Legion under Major-General Murray, when we were with- 
 drawn and rejoined our regiment. 
 
 The enemy, about 5000 men, were posted in position on 
 the heights above the village of Grijo, which is Qrijo. 
 situated in a valley. The woods in the low ground and the 
 
110 
 
 village were occupied by their lifrht troops, all under (icneral 
 Marinont, who luid l)oi3ii ])nsiiiii^- on for Oporto on his learn- 
 in{5 that the T'ritish were advancing. 
 
 We halted on a height on the side of the valo directly 
 opposite to them, the 29t]i rioginuMit l)eing fcjnned in line, 
 the IGth Porti'guese on our left, and tlu; cavalry and artillery 
 on the right, on the main road, all rfady to move on to the 
 attack. Our light troops, consisting of the light company of 
 the 29th Iieginient, with tlic detiX'hmonts of the 43rd and 
 52nd Iiogiments, and the Ooth L'illo Corps, all under the 
 command of Major Way of the 29th licgimenl, dashed oti, 
 and were soon warmly engaged witli the enemy in the woods 
 below. During this m'c were ordcnnl to lie down. Sir 
 Arthur Wellesley and his staff were immediately in rear of our 
 colours. The enemy's shot was jiassing through and over us 
 pretty thick. One passed between myself and an officer who 
 was in the act of handing me a cuj) of wine, nearly dashing 
 it from his hand, and it fell just in front of Sir Arthur's horse. 
 
 The skirmishing still contimiing witli great obstinacy, and 
 the enemy not seeming inclined to give way, Sir Arthur 
 Wellesley said, " If they don't move soon, I must let the old 
 29th loose upon them". He ordered the IGth Portuguese, 
 under Colonel John Milley Doyle, to move down through the 
 wood, so as to gain and turn the enemy's right, while the 
 column of tlie German Legion threatened tlieir left. This 
 had the desired effect. The enemy, finding both flanks 
 likely to be turned, while we were ready to attack in front, 
 they, after returning a few volleys from the I'ortuguese and 
 Germans, hastily withdrew, and retired with great celerity. 
 The 14th Light Dragoons were immediately sent in pursuit. 
 They attacked the rear guard, and took many prisoners. We 
 moved on througli the villa-.' and were halted in the French 
 bivouac, at some distance in its rear. Tiio huts appeared to 
 have been only recently erected, and the straw in them quite 
 clean, so that it would seem they had not expected us. They 
 likewise left cattle slaughtered in the village, which they had 
 pot had time either to serve out to their troops or to carrry off. 
 
Ill 
 
 We tlms became indebted to our gallnnt foes for food and 
 shelter. We iiiiidi; a I'apilul dinner of thciir beef, and slept 
 well and conif(»rtal)ly in tlie lints they had left standing. 
 
 Our light conij)any sull'ered very severely in this alliiir, 
 owinjj; in some measure to a ruse practised by the French. 
 While warmly enga,i,'ed with them in the wood, the enemy's 
 skirmishers hastily retired and f^ot over a stone wall. Our 
 gallant fellows instantly daslied up after them, when, to their 
 surprise, a French battulicm was lying eoneealed behind the 
 wall. Several of our men, who in the hurry and excitement 
 of the moment jumped over without looking before them, 
 were instantly bayonete'd. Lieutenant Stanhope had got on 
 the top of the wall, and was siMzed hold of by a French 
 soldier, who endeavoured to drag him down, but he was 
 fortunately rescmnl by one of his own men, who succeeded in 
 pulling him back. 
 
 About two o'clock in the morning on the 12th May, we 
 were aroused by the noise of a loud explosion which shook 
 the ground. We immediately got under arms, and soon 
 afterwards learned that the enemy had retired across the 
 Douro, and had blown up the bridge of boats. 
 
 It was now clear that our commander was determined to 
 force the passage of the Douro, and to drive the enemy from 
 Oporto. By some mistake no orders arrived for our moving 
 on, and we were kept waiting for some hours in an anxious 
 state of suspense. However, orders at length arrived, and we 
 proceeded with great expedition to Villa N'ova, which is a 
 suburb of Oporto, situated on the left bank of the viiinNova. 
 Douro. We were halted in the steep narrow streets, and the 
 column of sections well closed up. The inhabitants told us 
 that from the top of their houses they coukl see the French 
 under arms in the streets and squarcis in the town opposite, 
 seemingly without any apprehension that a formidable enemy 
 was so near them. We could not venture to go up to look at 
 them, because in the interim the regiment might have moved 
 on. Word was passed from the rear to open right and left to 
 let the Guards pass, but we resolved that no one should go 
 
112 
 
 hoforo us, and pasaod the word liiuik that we wore so crowded 
 Ihat it was impossihli! to (»|m'ii out to let iiiiyoiu! jiasM, so wc 
 remained at the IkmuI oI' tlw; coliiiiiii, and near tlx; i'.il^v. of tlio 
 water, coiiceiilud from the view of tliu unciiiy only by some 
 houses. 
 
 In the mcantinio Sir Arthur WelhiHloy liad ordered the 
 artillery to take post in the garden of the Convent of St. 
 Augustine, whieh is situated on a coinmanding lu>iglit at Villa 
 Nova, and coininands the city on the other side of the river. 
 Wo soon afterwards heard a {)arlial cannonade, and then 
 volleys of small arms. This, we learniul, procecMled from 
 General Hill's division, which was crossing over immediately 
 above the town, under proteotion of our artillery, while a 
 division of Germans, under (Jeneral Murray, crossed the river 
 four miles higher up at Avintas. 
 
 Soult now observing that the attack became very serious, 
 and that his retreat might be endangered, began to evacuate 
 the town. This being obstM-ved, wo were ready to take 
 advantage of it. Signs were made to the inhabitants, some of 
 whom, availing themselves of the confusion in tiie enemy's 
 army, instantly brought over several boats. The 29th Regi- 
 ment immediately jumped into them, and pushed across in 
 the frail barks, for many of the boats were in a dangerous state, 
 being much shattered by the explosion the previous night. 
 We succeeded in gaining the oj)posite shore with no other 
 opposition than a few straggling shots, as the enemy hastily 
 retired to the upper part of the tovvi on our landing and 
 forming on the quay. We immediately entered the town, and 
 advanced up the main street, amidst the acclamations of the 
 people, and the ladies, who from the upper windows and 
 house-tops kept cheering, waving their handkerchiefs, and 
 shouting, " Viva ! Viva ! " The doors and shops were all 
 closed, and the streets as we advanced were strewed with 
 French baggage which had been abandoned in their haste. 
 On gaining the upper part of the town we observed some of 
 the enemy through an opening. We then turned down on 
 our right where the high road enters from Valenza, on which 
 
1 1 :'. 
 
 the eiiuiiiy \v;i.h ivtiviitini,' to Aiiiiinmtc. Here onr Icudiuj; 
 cninpiniy, tlu^ (trciiiMlicrs, l»("/;iii to liiv iipnii tliciii. Tlicy 
 iiiiul<! little rt-'sistimcc, mid tmnUi oH" in Ii,ist(> and uniifusiot), 
 iibandoiiiii;^' a liri.L;adu of aililliM'V mid soini! ainiiiiinitioii 
 wa^'j^oiiH, luid many wcro kilUul and wounded by our tiro. 
 Wu lull stnitrioM to protect tlus wounded, as the I'Di'tunuoscj 
 mob was threatening' to kill them. 
 
 On j^etlin^M'lear of the town we IuiiumI to our h'l'L into an 
 open space enclosed with walls, in jiassinj^ which, the kukIMi 
 
 1 • I 1 1 • I • 1 iniinli nil 
 
 enemy, wIkj occupied a roeUy heinlit on our ri^dit, oiM.iti>. 
 opened a smart lire upon us. \Vi! did not stoj* to return it, 
 but pushed on, <,'ained an opening', and imniediatidy attackcid 
 the enemy, whom, al'ler a smart skirmish, we drove from the 
 hei^'hts. 'I'liis was their last stiind. AVe now had a splendid 
 view (jf their whole army in lull rc-treat. We r(!-formed and 
 rushed down alter them. Thiiv made no li^ht, every man 
 seemed running for his lile, tliMwinj,' away their kiuii)sacks 
 and arms, so that we had only the trouble of makiii;j; many 
 prisoners every instant, all be;,fging for (quarter, and surren- 
 dering with great good humour. 
 
 The 29tli were the first troops that crossed direct into the 
 centre of the town of (.)\h)vU), and, led on by .Sir T.^uin^r ,.f 
 John Sherbroke, overtook the retreating enemy eve "^'i'""'"- 
 they quitted the town, and opeiKnl a lire on their rear, in con- 
 sequeiice of which several pieces of cannon and ammunition 
 waggons were captured. We afterwards drove them from a 
 rocky height, and continued pursuing them very closely, they 
 running away as hard as they could, cutting off their knap- 
 sacks, throwing away their arms ami ammunition, &c. Many 
 came out of houses and surrendered themselves prisoners. 
 We were now rapidly gaining on the enemy, and those we 
 overtook were begging for quarter. During this mrlee an 
 order was passed from the rear to halt, and then open to right 
 and left, when two S(|uadrons of the 14th Light Dragoons, 
 under the connnand of Major Harvey, led by ]\Iajor-Gencral 
 Charles Stewart, afterwards IMarquess of Londonderry, passed 
 through us and dashed at the enemy, who, on perceiving the 
 
 8 
 
114 
 
 cavalry, immediately got over the fences on each side of the 
 road, and opeiKid a d(>structivo fire on the dragoons, by which 
 Major Ifarvey lost his arm, a)id many of his men were killed 
 or wounded, with little or no loss on the part of the enemy ; 
 whereas, if the infantry had been allowed to proceed, there is 
 little doubt tliu whole of their I'ear-gu.ird would have laid 
 down their arms and surrendered. AVe continued still moving 
 on, when the Duke of AVeilington came \\\) and asked me, 
 " What regiment is this ? Where is Colonel Whyte ? — where 
 is Colonel Whyte '{" 1 wont and found the Colonel, to whom 
 the Duke gave orders to move the regiment up a hcaght to 
 the left of the road, and to form line along a wall on the edge 
 of a wood which was in front, and not to move without his 
 own positive orders. There we remained till about seven 
 o'clock P.M., when we wore marched back into the town. A 
 street was given up to the regiment, and tlse officers were 
 allowed to choose the best houses they could iind. In the 
 one which fell to my lot I found that the French had been 
 kind enough to leave dinner prepared for me. 
 
 I may avail myself of this opportunity of noticing a state- 
 ment which Colonel Xapier has made in his account of the 
 operations of the army at Oporto. He mentions that General 
 Murray did not attack the ilying enemy in flank as he might 
 have done, and that in consequence of this, Major-General 
 Charles Stewart and ]\fajor Harvey, impatient of this inac- 
 tivity, charged witli two squadrons of the 14th Light Dragoons, 
 cutting up the French rear-guard, and making many prisoners. 
 
 It may be very true that General jMurray did not attack 
 the Hying enemy as he might have done in the flank, but the 
 attack made by General Stewart and JMajor Harvey, which 
 was no doiibt a dashing affair on their part, did more credit to 
 their gallantry and courage than to tlieir judgment. 
 
 The passage of the Douro was certainly a daring and 
 dashing entei'prise. There was Marshal Soult esta- 
 
 TncWoiits of , T , 1 !• 1 1 <■ 1 T-i 
 
 the taking blisheu, ouc 01 tlic ocst 01 tiic b rcuch marshals, with 
 
 of Oporto. 
 
 a large and well-appointed force under his command. 
 The town is a very defensible position, having a broad and 
 
115 
 
 rapid river in its front, over wliioli ho had destroyed the means 
 of passage ; and he had secured sill the hoats of (ivery descrip- 
 tion, so tliat a i'orniidable resistance miglit easily liave been 
 made. Notwithstanding all these chances being against us, 
 we overcame every obstacle, bearded tlio Marslial in his den, 
 and in a few hours drove him from liis stronghold, which 
 speedily obliged him to make a hasty retreat, and to evacuate 
 the whole kingdom of Portugal. 1'here is no doubt but that 
 the French had very bad intelligence regarding our force and 
 movements. It would ap])ear that they never dreamed that 
 we would have had the hardihood to attack them in front, 
 and expected that we would liave disembai'ked to the north 
 of Oporto, so as to threaten their rear, and communication 
 with Spain. One of our ofilceis found apian, which a French 
 otlicer had dropped in the road, of a section of the country, in 
 which were detailed all the ])oits and points of defence from 
 the mouth of the Douro along the coast to some distance 
 northward, with the signals to be made should the English 
 fleet appear, and instructions for defensive measures should 
 they attempt to disembark. Indeed, so little was our hostile 
 visit expected, that even the j\Iarshal himself had left his 
 dining-table with his dinner untouched, for the benefit of his 
 more fortunate opponent, our Comnumder-in-Chief 
 
 When we first entered the town there was not a soul to 
 be seen in the streets. All the doors and lower windows 
 were closed up. The people appeared to have gone to the 
 upper stories and roofs of the houses, but as we advanced 
 and gained ground on the enemy, and French baggage of all 
 description was lying strewed aliout, the rabble, urged by 
 hopes of plunder, began to app(>ar and to seize everything they 
 could lay their hands upon; they had also kniv^es in their hands 
 ready to despatch the French wounded, had they not been 
 prevented by us. 
 
 One fellow, a shoemaker, I imagine, came out very oddly 
 accoutred for the fight. He had got a skin of thick sole 
 leather tied on in front as a shield, from his chin to his toes, 
 with a sword in one hand and a pistol in the other. He 
 
116 
 
 marched alongside of us, shouting', " Death to tlie French ! " 
 but Nvlieu llic Frciu^h balls came whistling' ratht;r last about 
 our ears, he, with inon; pruilcuce than valour, quietly dropped 
 to the rear. 
 
 Our gallant commander, Sir Arthur Wellesley, with his 
 usual foresight in making his dispusitious for the campaign, 
 had detached a lurce oi' Ilritish and Portuguese troops, under 
 Marshal IJeresford, to interce])t the retreat of the French. 
 
 Owing to our su]>]tliL'S not having been able to keep pace 
 with the rajjid advance of the troops, and the diiliculty of 
 getting them across the river, it was found impossible to 
 follow up the pursuit of the entjmy. As our brigiide had 
 been for the last i'our or live days continually enij)loyed in most 
 harassing duty, ligliting and mnrching, and having gone over 
 upwards of eiglity mik;-; (jf country in that short period, con- 
 stantly in presence of the enemy, we were allowed three days 
 to halt at Oporto. Tlu' inhabitants received us very hospi- 
 tably. They o[)ened the theatres, aiul invited us to attend. 
 We had also the means of good liviny, the town being well 
 supiilied with provisions, and wine ehea}). 
 
 On being driven from Ojiorto, Soult first directed his 
 Miiy.ison.— I'^'treat u])on Zamora, so as to unite with Loison • 
 of'the'*^ but on reaching IVnatiel at night, he found that 
 I'lcncb. ;Marslial lleresford and Silveira had driven Loisou 
 from his post on the Tamega, so that his retreat wa? cut off 
 in that direction. He theiefore decided to retreat by l^raga, 
 which he did by f(jrced nuirches. Having learned at Guima- 
 raens that we were endeavouring to reach that place before 
 him, so as to intercept his retreat into Galicia, while Marslial 
 IJeresford was marching on Chaves to cut him off in that 
 direction, he was reduced to great extremity, his rear-guard 
 was overtaken at Salamonde, and some made prisoners. How- 
 ever, he determined to save his army at all hazards, so he 
 abandoned his remaining baggage and stores, and availed 
 himself of bye-paths through mountainous districts, and 
 finally made his escape over the frontiers to Montalegre, 
 which he reached on the 17th May. 
 
117 
 
 The tables were thus turned. ]]ut four months previously 
 Soult had been engajfed in active i)ursuit of the I']n,^lish army, 
 without defeatin'f tlieni. Xow l\u\ Ih-itisli, after deteatinsf 
 him, were in their turn pursuing liin), and that so closely as 
 to coMipel hlni to abandon his artillery, baggage, and stores to 
 the victors. 
 
 Our brigade left Oi)ort() on the 15th May, and proceeded 
 to Villa Xova, a snudl village about four leagues i,-,tuMay 
 northward, where we had some dilliculty in iinding ^'*'^'''- 
 cover to protect us from the rain. Next morning, the IGth, 
 we moved upon J5raga, hoping to reach that place before 
 'Soult, but he had succeeded in attaining his object, and had 
 escaped. We halted there that night. Xext morning, the 
 17th, we stood to our arms before daybreak, and left Eraga 
 after dawn. When we had marched three leagues, we learned 
 that the French had escaped across the I'rontiers, destroying 
 the bridges to retard our pursuit. We were innuediately 
 counter-marched, and moved into cantonments at Povo de 
 Lanhoso, a small village in a wooded country. Although our 
 accommodation was but indiflereut, we were well pleased, the 
 weather being very stormy, wet and cold for the season. 
 There being now no enemy to dread in this quarter, we were 
 allowed to take a nap in the morning. Ikit our prospects of 
 repose were of short duration. We got reports that Marshal 
 Victor, with a corjys d'annee, had taken Alcantara, and was 
 threatening to enter I'ortugal by Castello Branco, and that 
 our army was to move with as little delay as possible in that 
 direction. 
 
 We commenced our march southward on the 20th May, 
 and reached IJraga that day. This was one of the .jotujiay, 
 neatest country towns, and the most thriving-looking ^*"''' 
 place, we had seen in I'ortugal. It is noted for its manu- 
 factures of silk and woollen stull's, especially a lleecy sort of 
 shawls and night-caps. 
 
 This part of the country, entir Doiicro y Minho, is 
 remarkably fine, being well cultivated, and the fields laid out 
 in the English style, sonK> with hedge-rows, others with rows 
 
118 
 
 of trees, on which vines iire entwined, pvotluoing excellent 
 grapes. 
 
 Wo moved to iinotlier Villa Xova on tlie ibllowing day, 
 entered Oport(j once more on the 22nd May, and reinstated 
 ourselves in our former billets. 
 
 The army having been now all reassembled at Oporto, 
 the various brigades received different routes of 
 tii'i'nU'ii march to Coimbra, some by the inland road, others 
 o'viir/ " " by the coast road. Our brigade took the latter. 
 vciMiiiNovii, We left the city on the 24th May, repassing the 
 Aia-aiitoH, Doino Ijy the bi'idge of boats to Villa Nova ; then 
 leaving the road we had advanced by, we marched 
 off to the right, and after going nearly two leagues through a 
 fine country, we reached the small village of Municoso. 
 My billet was in a peasant's house. An old man and his 
 daughter constituted the family. We could get little or 
 nothing to purchase in the place. We showed money, and 
 asked for bread, fowls, &c. The only answer from one and 
 all was, " Nao ! the French have robbed us of all ! — all ! " 
 There was, however, a fine promise of fruit. I oljserved in 
 the sujall cottage gardens, almond, peach, orange, citron, plum, 
 ([uince, cherry and fig trees, &c., all in full bloom. The fol-' 
 lowing day we marched to Ovar, a distance of two leagues, 
 through a flat, sandy country. Here we were detained wait- 
 •27th May, ^^^o f^i' boats uutil the 27th, nor did we embark until 
 ^'*"''*- late in the afternoon of that day, when we pro- 
 
 ceeded down the Vouga, and across its mouth, which here 
 assumes the appearance of a lake, or rather an arm of the sea, 
 about seven or eight leagues broatl. We did not reach Aveiro 
 until after two o'clock in the morning of the 28th May, after 
 a tedious and unpleasant voyage. The boats had only a 
 small bit of deck at the stern for the steersman to stand upon, 
 and under this we crept as the only shelter from the rain and 
 cold. 
 
 On the 29th we proceeded four leagues to Venda Nova, 
 a small wretched village, and on the following day, after a 
 march of four leagues more, through a well-cultivated country, 
 
110 
 
 we again entered the fair city of Coimbra, and I lost no time 
 in repairing to our hospitable friend, tlie worthy canon. We 
 left Coimbra on the 3rd June, and marclied two .5^,1 .j,,,,^^ 
 leagues through a beautiful country c(jvered with '*^"''' 
 gardens, vineyaras, orange-groves, S;c., to Condeixa. On the 
 next day, tlui 4th June, we reached I'ombal ; here we left the 
 high road to Lisbon, our march being directed to Abrantes 
 on the Tagus, in a south-easterly direction. After a long 
 march of five leagues through a barren country, we reached 
 Cao de Magao, the land of (q)ples, a small village surrounded 
 with gardens. From this place tlnire is a most picturesque 
 view of the town and old Moorish castle of Urem, situated 
 on a high peaked hill. 
 
 We moved on the Gth to Payalvo, and on the 7th readied 
 Punhete. This is a neat small town, prettily situated on a 
 high ridge or tongue of land at the juncture of the Zeuiiero 
 with the Tagus. 
 
 We proceeded next day, the 8th June, up the right bank 
 of the Tagus two leagues, through a Hat country ^j.^ j,,,,^^ 
 covered with olive-groves, to Abrantes, a town situ- ^*^'^' 
 ated on a conical hill, commanding the passage of the Tagus. 
 Here there is a bridge of boats, hence it is considered a point 
 of great importance. I got a very good billet on a priest, who 
 was very civil, and made his servant cook for me. 
 
 We now learned that the French colunm, under Marshal 
 Victor, which had threatened to enter Portugal in this direc- 
 tion, on finding that we had defeated Soult and driven him 
 out of Portugal, and were marching to meet them, had with- 
 drawn, and had retired to Talavera de la lieyna, and that a 
 Spanish army, under General Cuesta, was on the I'agus 
 watching the motions of the French. 
 
 Our Commander-in-Chief now determined that we should 
 become the assailants, and march into Spain to attack the 
 enemy. For this purpose the army began to concentrate, and 
 preparations were made for the campaign. The men were 
 supplied with shoes and other necessaries brought Irom 
 Lisbon. 
 
As our miinbevs increased by the ariival of reinforcements, 
 I'tii.Tmio the troops were ordered to be encamped. We left 
 Lmv7 Abrantes on th(; 12th June, crossed the Ta.t^us by 
 AbrautcH. ^.j^^ l)rid^e of boats to the left, or soutliern bank, 
 and occupied a position about a Icai^nie distant from it. There 
 we bivouacked and er(;cted huts in regular order. For a 
 camp-life it may l)e saiil tliat we lived liere remarkably well, 
 being })lentifully suppHed not only with the necessaries of 
 life, but witli many of its comforts, as our suttlers had great 
 facility in bringing goods from Lisbon by water carriags. 
 
 The plan of tlie caiiii)aign seemed to he, that we were to 
 rim of advance up the valley of the Tagus on Placentia, 
 campaign. ,^,jj after uuitiug with Cuesta's 8panisli army, to 
 push on to iNfadrid : wliile Venegas was to push across tlic 
 Tagus at the sanu; time, and to advance on the capital simul- 
 taneously with us. Beresfoi-d, with 12,000 Portuguese in the 
 vicinity of Ahneida, and the Duke del Parcpie, with 10,000 
 Spaniards in the vicinity of Ciudad liodrigo, were destined to 
 watch Soult. The passes of Perales and I>anos were to be 
 occupied by a Spanish force, to prevent Soult from attempting 
 to advance against us by Placentia and Salamanca. The 
 French arniie; were so placed that eitlier Soult or Victor 
 would be able to act against the rear of an enemy who should 
 advance against either of them. 
 
 Hence, it was evidently Sir Artliur Wellesley's object to 
 concentrate our and the Spanish armies at Placentia, so as to 
 leave the Frencli commanders in doubt which line of opera- 
 tions he would follow, and then by a rapid march to make a 
 dash at one of them. He, it appears, decided on trying his 
 luck against Victor, as having a chance of also gaining the 
 capital, ]\Iadrid. 
 
 The army broke up from Placentia on the ISth June, and 
 18th Juno, took the line of the Tagus. Sir Pobert Wilson 
 ^^'^■^- about the same time advanced from his position on 
 
 the Tietar, and moving on our left flank, reached Escalona 
 on the 28r(l, and was thus in the rear of the right of the 
 French army under \'ictor. 
 
121 
 
 Wlien Josepli IJonapnrto received at Madrid accounts 
 of this decided move of the Eii^li.sli army, lie immediately 
 liroiij,'lit all llic troo[)S he could sjiarc, aud formed a junction 
 with Victor and S('l)a.stiani near Toledo, while orders were 
 sent to Soult to unite with Xey ami Mortier, whose whole 
 united i'orces were to proceed by forced marches through the 
 passes of I'erales and I'iceto de llanos on I'lacentia, so as to 
 act in rear of the English army. I'y these dispositions of the 
 French armies they had concentrated 50,000 men in I'ront of 
 Sir Arthur Wellesley, and a like number threatened his rear. 
 
 Before the connnencement of our operations in this 
 campaign we understood that the positions of the diU'erent 
 French arnnes were nearly as follows. 
 
 Mar-^hal Victor, with about 25,000 men, was on the Tagus, 
 having fallen back from the frontiers of Portugal on DiHpositiou 
 learning that Soult had been driven from Oporto. Fiomhaiui 
 8ebastiani,with about 20,000 men, was in LaManclia. armies. 
 General Kellerman, with a division of cavalry, was between 
 I'urgos and IMadrid. All these corps may be said to have 
 been in our front. ]\Iar.slials Soult and N"ey, with 00,000 
 men, were in Galicia and Leon. These last would be 
 more or less on (nir left Hank as we advanced into Spain 
 on Madrid. The French had likewise a large force in 
 Catalonia, but these were too far distant and too much 
 occupied to have any immediate effect on our intended pro- 
 ceedings. 
 
 The ]>ritish army of nearly 21,000 men were bivouacked 
 at Abrantes, ready to march into S])ain, The Portuguese 
 army, under Marshal Percsiord, consisting of 12,000 men, 
 with a force of 10,000 Sjianiards, under the Duke del 
 Parque, was in the neighbomhood of Cuidad Rodrigo. 
 The Spanish army of Estramadura, of about 37,000 men, 
 under Cuesta, was on the left bank of the Tagus, and 
 covered the bridge at Almarez, and was thus directly in 
 advance, and between us and the French corps under Victor. 
 Another corps of about 18,000 men, under Venegas, was in 
 the Carolinas. Sir Pobert Wilson, Mith the Lusitanian 
 
122 
 
 Legion and some Spanish light corps, was stationed on the 
 Tietar, ready to act according to circumstances. Koniana, 
 with ahout 15,000 men, was in Galicia, opposed to Marshal 
 Ney; Blake was at Valencia with 20,000 men. 
 
 By a reference to a map of the I'eninsula it will be seen 
 that a broad expanse of mountainous country separates the 
 valley of the Douro from that of the Tagus, and forms an 
 almost impassable barrier, there being practicable roads only 
 at the cast end by the Escural to Segovia, and near the west 
 end by the road from Salamanca to Placentia, by the strong 
 pass of Pice to de Banos, through which cavalry or artillery 
 could be brought. 
 
 The officers of each company of our army got one bell- 
 27th Juno, ts'^t, which held three or four persons. All the 
 iiHb''miirci?" arrangements for the approaching campaign being 
 
 pftin. completed, the army broke up from the encamp- 
 ment and commenced the march towards the frontiers of 
 Spain on the 2'7th June, 1809. 
 
 We proceeded through a barren, undulating count ly of 
 low hills and hollows, covered with green cestos, a plant of 
 three or four feet high, bearing a white flower with dusky 
 green leaves, covered with a sticky, clammy substance, and 
 emitting a sickly smell. We bivouacked at Gavion, a small 
 miserable country town. The next day we passed through 
 the same sort of country and reached Niza, a tolerably-sized 
 town surrounded by old Moorish walls with square towers. 
 On the 29th we continued our march through a desolate 
 district, and reached the Tagus by a steep descent. The 
 river here flows between two rugged mountains forming the 
 celebrated pass of Villa Vilha, being one of the keys of 
 Portugal. We crossed the river by a floating bridge of 
 boats, and bivouacked near the old castle on the opposite 
 bank. The scenery is wild and grand in the extreme. On 
 30th June, ^^^^ followiug day, the 30th June, we marched to 
 ^^°^* Cemadas, a distance of only two leagues, to give 
 
 time to get all the baggage and stores over the river, and for 
 the rear-guard to close up. 
 
123 
 
 On the tbllowiii<,' luovuin^, Ist July, vvu marched to 
 Ciistello Branco, a distance of throe h'ayues. It latjuiy, 
 is rathor a neat t(j\vii, siluated on a hill, and has ^**'"^" 
 an old Moorisli castle with walls and towers, from which 
 there is a splendid view. On the west and north are high 
 l)recipitous mountains, the Sierra d'Estrella, but to the east 
 and south the eye is carried over unbounded plains extending 
 towards Spain. This place is considered as a kind of frontier 
 advanced post. 
 
 On the 22nd July we passed over an open, plain, un- 
 cultivated country, covered with rough grass, and at intervals 
 with brushwood, for four leagues, and bivouacked near the 
 village of I.adoceira. Next day we proceeded four leagues 
 farther, through the same sort of country, to Zibriera, also a 
 small village, at both of whicli places the troops had warning 
 not to enter, as a contagious typhus fever was raging in 
 them. 
 
 On the 4th July we passed under Salvaterra, a small 
 frontier town situated in a commanding position on 4,,^ j^jy^ 
 a hill, not far from the right bank of the river Elga, ^^^'''' 
 which divides i'ortugal iVom Spain. The column waded 
 across the river, which is here of some breadth, but not very 
 deep. After proceeding about two leagues we were encamped 
 at Zarza Maior, a snudl Spanish town. Here several of the 
 soldiers' wives, have jneceded the colunni, had taken the 
 liberty of helping themselves to various articles in the shape 
 of vegetables and other eatables. On coinplaint being made 
 by the injured inhabitants, Lord Hill consigned the delin- 
 quents to the provost, ivho c.ixrcised schuolboi/ discipline on a 
 few as an example to tlie rest. 
 
 The surprising difterence in the appearance of the Spaniards 
 and Portuguese in dress, manners, customs, and habits, is very 
 remarkable, they being such near neigldjours. 
 
 We halted at Zarza Maior two days, and Sir Eobert Wilson 
 joined us with his Lusitanian Legion. On the 6th gtujuiv 
 July we marched on to Moralega, on the 7th to ^^"^• 
 Coria, on the 8th to Galesteo. On the 9Lh we passed the 
 
124 
 
 river Alngoii by a temporary bridge formed by cars, and 
 Mimhof cncaiujxid near l*la('eiitia, a remarkable ancient town, 
 anny to'"'' f^ituatcd (ju tbe south side of tlie high ridge of the 
 iMacoiitu. i,„,,,i,tjiiii which separates Spanish Estrama(hira 
 from Okl Castile. 'J'he town stands in the mouth of one of 
 those ditlicult passes which coiiiniand the two districts. It 
 is beautifully situated on a lising gruund on the verdant bank 
 of the river Alagon. The appearance of I'laceutia is very 
 imposing. The cathedral, the churches, with their spires, the 
 convents, the l)ishop'8 palace, form conspicuous objects, and 
 add to the venerable ajjpearance of the town, which is 
 also ornamented with gaidens, vineyards, and olive-groves. 
 It is considered the capital of High Kstramadura. Near 
 the town in a i)leasant locality Charles V. had his re- 
 treat, 
 
 Tiie people neither here nor at the different places we had 
 passed through since we entered Spain displayed that 
 enthusiasm which might have been expected. We had a 
 plentiful supply of all sorts of vegetables, fruits, and wines at 
 a remarkably reasonable rate. The army was halted here for 
 some days, to give time for the military stores, provisions, 
 and ammunition to come up, and also to wait lor several 
 regiments which had arrived at Lisbon to reinforce the 
 army. 
 
 During our stay at Placentia, a sergeant of our Grenadier 
 An orderly. Company being appointed orderly to the Adjutant- 
 udveuturc. General, the JIunourable Sir Charles William 
 Stewart, afterwards Marquess of Londonderry, he used to go 
 into the town every morning, and returned again in the 
 evening. One day on his way back, just on quitting the 
 town, he was met by two persons, one of whom, spoke Eng- 
 lish remarkably well. They addressed him, saying that an 
 English soldier was lying intoxicated at some distance off, 
 and offered to accompany him to show him where the man 
 was. To this the sergeant agreed. They took the direction 
 to some liigh broken ground, covered with large rocks and 
 brushwood. After searching about for some time, and getting 
 
12.^ 
 
 more and mora into a ri'motc lonoly liollovv, thuy allowed tliat 
 tlicy wuro tired, and sat down uj)()n a lar^^c stouc!. Tiiu .scir^^uant 
 did so likuwiso. Aftiu' s<»me conversation relating; to tlio 
 Enfflish army, in wiuch tlu'V omloavoured to discover its 
 numbers, and what place tlicy were likely to <,'o to next, 
 linding that the scr<,feant evaded their ([uestions, they turned 
 fiercely upon him, and presenting,' pistols, declared they would 
 shoot him if he did not disclose everything he knew. They 
 told him that they were aware that he was employed by the 
 Adjutant-! Jeneral, and that he must know the number of 
 brigades, th(! names of tlu; (lenerals, and the destination of 
 the army, whether going to move on Madrid or go through 
 the passes to the north. 1'hey kejit urging him until nearly 
 daybreak next morning, and on his still refusing to answer 
 their (piestions, they said, " Xi»w we must be off, and wo shall 
 shoot you!" I'oth started up ; one of them presented his 
 pistol, on seeing which the sergeant threw himself back, in 
 doing which his right hand was raised. A ball went through 
 it. Fortunately he put his hand to his face, which being 
 covered with blood, the men imagined that he was mortally 
 wounded, and also, no doubt, dreaded that tlu; report of fire- 
 aims might bring someone to the spot. They ran off in 
 great haste, and were soon out of sight. From the sergeant's 
 description of the two men, one must have been a French 
 oilicer in disguise and the other a regular spy. 
 
 After a few days good wine becanu> scarce, owing to the 
 great demand matle for it by our army. I strapped on my 
 canteen one day, and went into town. While strolling about 
 in search of a place likely to aiford the desired beverage, 1 
 spied an elderly, portly-looking signora peeping out at the 
 wicket of a large gateway. 80 I asked her, " Do you sell 
 wine?" She at first hesitated, and seemed shy of answering 
 my question, but on looking about and seeing no other 
 military near, she stepped back, and making a sign with her 
 hand, said, " Enter, signor," and immediately bolted the 
 wicket. She then led the way across a court, and opened a 
 cellar door. I took off my canteen and gave it to her to fill, 
 
I2r) 
 
 nnd romnined at the door, not wislniif,' to intnido into li(>r 
 secret depot. On iierceiviiifj; tlii.s, she cjviik^ luick- ami In i^'Ljcd 
 111(1 to conio in, siiyin<j;, "I'rny ontiT, sii^nor; do imt ffar any- 
 thing', wo aro old Christians" — Virjox christitnios (not "con- 
 vcrtcil " .Fews). 
 
 iJnring tliis cainpiiign thiTO aiipcarcd in our bivouac a 
 Lcmoim.io l>eculiar race of uxvw, I'dailms of hiuionaih', wlio con- 
 iiiunimntH. t^j,m^,(i jq accouiitany the army throu^^houL the wliole 
 war as regular followers. I'hcy were line large nniscular 
 fellows, of swarthy coin])le\ion, exiiicssive dark cyus, lilack 
 bu.shy hair, all natives of \'al('ntiM, and dressed in a most 
 nni(|uc costume. They had sandals made of a sort of wild 
 grass, or of goatskin, on tlufir feet, their legs bare, short, wide 
 petticoat trousers s(^arcely reaching to the knee, like a kilt, 
 jackets made of some light-coloured cotton stnll' with slashed 
 sleeves to admit the air, large red sashes encircling their loins, 
 their bronzed necks perfectly bare ; a broad-brimmed sond)rero, 
 or hat, shaded their open, maidy countenances. Jvuih had a 
 ticket stuck in front of his hat, indicating his nanui and 
 number, so that no spies under such disguise could enter our 
 lines. On their backs by a cross-belt were slung a sort of 
 long slender barrels of churn form, having a tube and turn- 
 cock near the bottom, and a basket with glasses of vai'ious 
 sizes. This was their stock-in-lrade. They promenaded the 
 camp or accompanied the column on the march, vending at a 
 moderate price their cool and refreshing beverage, bawling 
 out, " Limonada ! Linmnada fresca ! " The chief of each 
 party had a donkey loaded with connnon sugar, &c. Th(!y 
 How wo resorted to the coldest springs before daylight, and 
 pun"h. there prepared their lemonade. AVhen our ration 
 royal. wind was bad, or so hot as not to be palatable, 
 
 which was but too often the case, we indulged in a glass of 
 punch-royal, which was most easily made. We hailed one of 
 these lemonade sellers, and purchased a quart or two of his 
 lemonade, to which we added a portion of his Majesty's 
 ration rum, with a glass or two of suttler's brandy, aud our 
 punch was made. 
 
127 
 
 Alxmt midday on tlic Inth July T was warned for de- 
 taclniK'nl duty, and L'ot orders to proceed ininie- i:.tii .luiy. 
 diately into the town (if I'liieentiii, and to report i.imitoimnt 
 
 , il /-A /I 1 L>' /I I.Osllo MUllt 
 
 myself to tlio (^uarternui.ster-deminu, Sir deorj^c withmi.m.y 
 Murray. On my iirescntin'' mysell, lie told me 1 i> it.hoH t" 
 
 1 • 1 1 1 !• Aviliiilo 
 
 was to prneced with despatches, and directed me to FOrmuH. 
 the Adjutant-(!eneral, Sir (.'harh^s Stciwart, who gave mo a 
 sealed packet of conlidential dcHpatclif's addressed to Captain 
 Human, who was employed in the secret service at Avila do 
 Fornjes, or wherever else I mi^ht find liim. I got likewise 
 an order to the commanding CJeneral to give me a certain 
 sum of money in gold (U)ul)loons, which was also to be de- 
 livered to the Captain. T then had to go to Sir Arthur 
 Wellesley's secn^tary to get an order on the Junta, or town 
 coun(;il, to provide' a guide, and to furnish me with a horse 
 to start with, and others on the road, for which I was to pay 
 eight reals a league. All this being arranged, I returned to 
 Sir (Jeorge Murray, who gave me another packet of despatches, 
 with a written memorandum of the direction in which I was 
 to proceed to Avila de Formes, and the distance, which was 
 stated to be five lejigues ; also instructions that I was to pro- 
 ceed there without delay, and to follow the Captain wherever 
 he might have gone, in order to deliver my despatches, to 
 receive any which he might have to send back, and to return 
 with all possible expedition. I wa..; about to leave the oflice, 
 when Sir George JMuriay very good-naturedly said, " Sir, 
 perhaps you have not dined?" On my replying that 1 had 
 had no time that day to attend to so e-ssential a point, he 
 politely requested me to take a seat at his taljle. There was 
 no resisting so tempting an offer to one who had been living 
 on camp-kettle soup, roasted hearts, and little else, and that 
 too squatted on the ground in a tent, fur nearly two months. 
 It was no small treat to sit down in a comfortable chair to a 
 decently-dressed dinner. 
 
 I then took my leave, and having folded the doubloons in 
 a handkerchief as flat as I could, 1 tied it round my waist 
 under my coat. At five o'clock p.m. I mounted my mule, 
 
128 
 
 that is to say, I found niysolf on a large flat pack-saddle, my 
 legs a niilo apart, and two wooden lioxes dandling one at each 
 side, as stirrups to put my leet in ; but <<{]' we went at a smart 
 pace, my guide leading the way. .Shovtly after quitting the 
 town, a peasant, who was sitting by tlie roadside, started up 
 and kept running alongside of me. I took no notice for 
 some time; but finding that he continued to keep up with 
 me, notwithstanding our going at a good pace, I, having in 
 charge so much public money and important despatches, 
 began to be apprehensive of some danger, so I stopped, and 
 began to cross-question the guide about the man. Ho then 
 informed me that he was the owner of the mule on which I 
 was riding, which had been pressed into the public service, 
 and that the poor fellow, dreading that he would never see 
 his property again, was resolved to accompany it in our 
 expedition. I remonstrated witn him, and told him how 
 absurd it was to give himself so much trouble. I assured 
 him that his mule should be well taken care of and safely 
 restored to him on my return. All arguments, however, 
 proved fruitless, so on we went, and the activity which the 
 poor man displayed was really surprising. Our route was 
 through one of those dilhcult passes which led through the 
 mountains which separate Estramadura from Old Castile, 
 At some distance from Placeutia we entered the gorge or 
 entrance of a large strath or glen, as they call it in Scotland, 
 down which rushes a mountain stream, up which our course 
 lay. On the left bank of this stream stands Aspenilla, a 
 neat village at the mouth of the vale. Tlie grandeur of the 
 scenery in this region was strikingly superb. On casting the 
 eye up the great strath towards the north, you behold the 
 summit of the mountains, which terminated the view, covered 
 with snow. On looking to either hand, you found yourself 
 amidst sweet gardens and orchards of cherries, almonds, olives, 
 and other fruit trees, attached to the neat villages and de- 
 tached cottages, which bordered each side of the liver. Next 
 succeeded rows of rich vineyards, olive-groves, &c., and above 
 them, up to the foot of the craggy rocks wliich cover the 
 
120 
 
 summit of tlie low hills, was rich luxuriant verdure, or these 
 liills were covered witli woods, consisting principally of cork 
 trees or chestnuts, wliich offered food lor herds of swine and 
 "oats. 
 
 The mystery of this delightful landscape was easily ex- 
 plained. The people, invited by tlie constant supply of water 
 in the river, and the rills and fountains on the hill-side, 
 established their residences along the stream. The farmers 
 of the plains had also their habitations here. In October 
 they went down to the plains and scratched up the soil with 
 a rude plough, sowed their ^\'heat or other grain, and harrowed 
 it with the branch of a tree. Then leaving their crop to a 
 benevolent Providence, they hastened back to their charming 
 retreats. When reaping time came in Juno, they, witli their 
 friends and neighbours to assist them, descended to the plains, 
 erecting rude bivouacs or sleeping in the farm-sheds, cut 
 down the grain, whicli was immediately threshed out, put 
 into sacks, and transported by nmles to the several homes. 
 
 My route lay up the course of this river, whicli in some 
 places is still and deep, and at others it rushes over a rocky 
 bed, gradually becoming narrower as you proceed. Our 
 road dwindled into a mule track which frequently crossed 
 and recrossed the stream in its various windings. I reached 
 Mabaconcejo about eleven o'clock at night. On going to 
 the Alcalde and demanding two fresh mules, he professed 
 great willingness to forward the public service, but assured 
 nie almost all the animals had been embargoed for the 
 army, and that as it was so late he could not possibly 
 procure mules for two or three hours. As I had no means of 
 compelling him to get mules, I was obliged to submit. He 
 gave me a billet on one of the best houses. The landlord 
 was very civil ; I got a hasty supper of some sausages and a 
 bottle of excellent wine. I told him to call me in three 
 hours, and turned into a bed, the first time I had enjoyed 
 such a luxury or slept without my clothes for nearly seven 
 weeks. Mine host was punctual. At the appointed hour, 
 3 A.M., he awoke me and most kindly brought me a cup 
 
130 
 
 of capital chocolate whicli I .qladly accoptod. Ho rcfiisod 
 all compensation. I mounted again, and after riding a 
 league, I came to Cabizuelo, and two leagues farther on to 
 Jcrte, both small towns. The valley began to narrow very 
 much, and the road became steep. Wo reached Tornabacos 
 after annther ride of two leagues. This is the last place in 
 Estramadura, and is situated on the mountains at the foot of 
 the pass. The road now became very difficult, being very 
 narrow, ami winding at soine places along the sides of stoop 
 acclivities, at others mounting by zig-zags up most abrupt 
 ascents. Here an action had been fought, as we saw some 
 shot lying about. 
 
 After a tedious ride of three lengues more, we at length 
 arrived at Puerto do Tornabacos, at the top of the pass. 
 Tins is a small desolate place, situated in the region of eter- 
 nal snow, and is the lirst frontier place in Old Castile. I 
 stopped here nt a wretched posada in order to refresh the 
 mules, and to get some breakfast. They prepared for me a 
 mess of black j)udding, eggs and bacon, all fried together in 
 oil, and seasoned with garlic. Hui gry as I was, I could not 
 manage to eat this, so after some delay they procured me 
 some milk, with which and a loaf of good bread I was 
 obliged to be contented. The muleteer, not being so fastidious, 
 regaled himself with the horrid coinpound of bacon, eggs, oil, 
 and garlic. A red coat never having been seen in this part 
 of the world before, I became an object of great curiusity. 
 Crowds of people assembled in front of the hostelry, others 
 pushed their way inside. Many asked various questions 
 relating to ourselves and the French, but most stood mute, 
 gazing at an " Inglese ". 
 
 On resuming my journey, the road rapidly descended 
 into Castile, and the country became more open, and cultiva- 
 tion resumed its sway. Fields were enclosed, bearing crops 
 of hay, &c., so different from the southern parts of Spain. I 
 continued on for about three leagues farther, and at length 
 arrived at the place of my destination, Bario d'Avila, a small 
 neat town situated on the bank of the river Formes. 
 
131 
 
 On approaching the place my guide preceded nie, keeping 
 about ton yards in front. He went cantering briskly along, 
 cracking loudly over his head, by a peculiar knack, his sliort- 
 handled, long-thonged whip, which Spanish couriers use ; 
 wliile the small globular bells which decorated the head and 
 neck of his ambling mule kept continually tingling. The 
 people, as we flew through the streets, turned out to inquire 
 the news. 
 
 I here found Captain Rhuman, a German by birth, who 
 held an English commission in the Lusitanian Legion. lie 
 was a most intelligent person, a capital linguist, and was 
 employed in the secret service, being well qualitied for such 
 an ofUce. I delivered to him my despatches and the money 
 all safe, which was a great relief to me. He was on tiie eve 
 of going out to meet by appointment a chief of a band of 
 guerillas. He wished me much to accompany him, that I 
 might see what sort of gentry these outpost warriors were ; 
 but however anxious to satisfy my curiosity on that head, I 
 felt obliged to decline his invitation, as my orders were 
 peremptory to return without any unnecessary delay. 
 
 After resting three hours, and having got the Captain's 
 despatches, including secret reports and official returns of the 
 French armies in this quarter, Spanish and Paris newspapers, 
 &c., I took my departure, and reached Tornabacos late at 
 night. I immediately went to the house of a family to 
 whom Captain Rhuman had given me a letter of introduction. 
 They received me in the kindest manner possible, and assured 
 me it was impossible to get fresh mules at that late hour, or 
 even at any time, the proprietors of these animals being afraid 
 that if they conveyed anyone to the low country, and par- 
 ticularly to where the army was, their mules would be 
 embargoed for the public service. I also got a hint tiiat the 
 proprietor of the mules I had was, for the same reason, con- 
 templating to make his escape and forfeit all the hire due to 
 him. I immediately had him brought before me, and directed 
 him to be ready to move at 4 o'clock next morning, threaten- 
 ing him with severe punishment in case of failure, as his 
 
132 
 
 name and address were known; but at the same time I 
 pledji'od myself that if he conducted me safe to Placentia 
 again, I wouhl insure him that liis mules sliould not bo 
 embargoed, and that I would give him something extra 
 beyond the public allowance. 
 
 The ladies of the family were most affiiblc, and I passed 
 an agreeable evening. One of them was sadly puzzled to 
 make out what sort of a place England was. .She said they 
 told her it was a country all surrounded with water. She 
 could not understand how this was possible, and even if it 
 were, how was it possible to get there ? She had no notion 
 whatever of the sea, and as little of large ships. She had 
 never seen any sort of vessel except a small ferry-boat. 
 After a few hours' stay, I started on my return to Placentia. 
 I was nnich surprised to meet on the road at intervals herds 
 of cattle, mules, &c., coming up to the mountains. On 
 inquiring, I was informed that the proprietors of these 
 animals, afraid of their being impressei! for the use of the 
 armies, were driving them to a place of security. I likewise 
 passed innnensc droves of sheep. I learned that they were 
 the usual flocks of merinoes in their progressive annual 
 march towards the cooler mountain regions, it being their 
 habit during the oppressive heats of summer to pass that 
 period there. For this purpose they begin to leave the plains 
 in the beginning of June, and gradually eat their way up, and 
 about the early days of September they commence returning 
 again to the open plains. This system, however, proves very 
 detrimental, and becomes a great hindrance to improve- 
 ments in agriculture. The merinoes are under royal pro- 
 tection, and the farmers in the plains are prohibited from 
 enclosing their grounds, so that the sheep may have free 
 pasturage on the grass and stubble lands in passing. Each 
 flock consisted of many thousands of sheep, preceded by a 
 shepherd at the head, with a splendid wolf-dog or two, and 
 tlie rear was brought up with the head-shepherd and his 
 numerous attendants and several of these fine dogs, with fine 
 large asses carrying the baggage, cooking utensils, women, and 
 
1 .1 .1 
 ioo 
 
 chiltlreii. Tliu Hocks kept a iiiilo or two ili.staut from oticli 
 otlior, 
 
 I was mncli plenscd that it liad fallen to lay lot to perform 
 the duty ill which I was now cngngod. It proved a most in- 
 teresting cxciu'sion, the scenery was altogether so ditlerent 
 from whot I had hitherto been accnstomed to. Since our 
 departure from Castello Branco, wc had passed over immense 
 plains, wliere scarcely a habitation was to be seen for miles, 
 and little cultivation, but at intervals small patches of wheat, 
 or open woods of black oak or cork trees, the ground arid and 
 burnt up, the heat oppressive, and water seldom to be found. 
 How different was the contrast in these delightful, romantic 
 regions! There the people, in their charming mountain vales, 
 lived in the most perfect security, enjoying all the freshness 
 of the cooling breeze, and the varied luxuries their charming 
 retreat afforded. There they had the purest springs, the 
 finest fruits of all kinds, the choicest vines, abundance of 
 excellent bread, milk, and honey. The horrors of war were 
 to them unknown. 
 
 I reached Placentia in the afternoon of the ITlh July, 
 and on delivering my despatches to the (Quarter- 17,11 juiy, 
 master-General, Sir George Murray, he expressed Jjl^ii'mt,} 
 surprise that I had not returned sooner, he having ^'''^'■'""'"• 
 begun to surmise that I had been taken prisoner. On my 
 explaining to him that the distance had proved to be nearly 
 double what he had told me previous to my departure, and 
 the obstacles and diiliculties I had in procuring mules, he was 
 perfectly satisfied, and most politely again invited me to 
 dinner. I detailed to him from my note-book all I had seen, 
 and the resources wdiich our commissariat miLiht draw from 
 those retired vales. 
 
 During my absence the army had marched in advance. 
 Sir George Murray gave me a memorandum of their ^^,,,„y 
 route, and an order for post-mules to enable me to tinofigh 
 overtake my regiment. I found that an hospital ?onu"d'l!>I' 
 depot had been established here under the command ^'^'•" "!''■''■'• 
 of Captain Pattison of the 29th, and that there were also one 
 
134 
 
 ov two othei' olUcor.s of the regiment left on the sick list. The 
 brave captain was in great distress at the idea of being left 
 behind his corps, wliicli was expected shortly to come in 
 contact with tlie enemy. .He charged me to request that our 
 commanding-officer would get him relieved. I got a capital 
 billet, and laid in some necessary supplies for future service. 
 
 Next morning, the 18th July, I proceeded. The road lay 
 isthjuiy, through a most extensive plain, bordered on the 
 ^'*"''' north, or left hand, by mountains, and on the south 
 
 by the Tagus and the liills beyond it. In some parts there 
 were detached woods of cork and oak trees, but at such open 
 distance that it gave the plain a pretty, park-like appearance. 
 I passed through Tulaquila and Malpartida, miserable villages, 
 and late in the evening I overtook the army, and found my 
 regiment encamped on the river near Majadas. 
 
 On the following day, the 19th July, we reached Casa de 
 loth July, Centinella, after a long march of four leagues, and 
 i8oi.>. bivouacked in one of the cork woods. On the 20th 
 
 we continued on through the same flat country to Oropeza, 
 which is a neat old town situated on a ridge of land rising out 
 of the plain. This was a most distressing march of three 
 leagues. The heat was excessive, and the want of water was 
 severely felt. ^Ye learned that a body of French dragoons 
 had left the place only a few hours previous to our arrival. 
 The Spanish ^^^^ halted here on the 21st, on which day the 
 *""^' Spanish army, under General Cuesta, formed a 
 
 junction with us. They passed on beyond us, and took 
 ground in advance to our left. In the afternoon we were 
 ordered to turn out at six o'clock in review order. We paraded 
 accordingly, the whole of our arniy forming one continued line 
 of great extent. We then understood that this exhibition was 
 for tlie edification of the Spanish Dons who were to inspect 
 us. After standing at open ranks for a length of time, we at 
 last perceived a crowd of staff-officers moving up from the 
 left of the line. As the cortege approached, I perceived four 
 or five cavaliers riding in advance, one of whom was habited 
 in a sort of fustian jacket and a black jockey cap. Our 
 
135 
 
 oflicers were all asking who lie was, but nolmdy could tell. 
 Therefore, as one of the Spanish oilicers riding with him 
 passed near nie, I asked him who llio gentloiaan i,,,,,, 
 was. He replied, " Es mi lor j\[ac Dui'lee, (Iran ■^'"''' "^■ 
 Signor Inglcsc ". IMy English friends were still in the ''k 
 until I explained that I had the honour of claiming to bo a 
 countryman of that great personage, the descendant of the 
 Thane of Fife, the conqueror of j\Iacbeth. We were under 
 arms next morning by the usual hour, three o'clock, and 
 commenced our march to Talavera de la IJeyna, "the Queen's 
 Pottery". For the first league or so the ground was broken 
 and uneven, but afterwards plain and o])en, with occasional 
 cornfields and patches of cork woods. After advancing about 
 two leagues wc passed the Spanish army formed in two lines 
 in the plain on the left of the road. We continued to advance, 
 and soon afterwards we learned that our cavalry, in combina- 
 tion with some Spanish horse, were skirmishing witli a body 
 of French cavalry, who were retiring before us. As we 
 approached Talavera and the banks of the Tagus, the plain 
 became visibly much narrower. The mountains on the left 
 tended rapidly towards the south, while the range of pre- 
 cipitous hills on our right, on the left bank of the Tagus, 
 enclosed it on that side, so that the open country was not 
 above three miles in breadth. 
 
 The Spanish army, taken as a whole, presented the most 
 motley and grotesque appearance. i\Iany cor])s were legulars, 
 and many more were irregulars. Their uniforms were of 
 every variety of colour, their e(|uipments and appointments 
 of the most inferior description. All were deficient in dis- 
 cipline and regular organisation. One could not but lament 
 these defects, for the men were remarkably fine, possessing 
 the most essential qualities to make good soldiers, being in- 
 dividually brave, patient, and sober, capable of enduring much 
 fatigue, while their officers in general were the very reverse. 
 The infantry regiments of the line were generally in blue 
 uniform with red facings. The provincial corps, styled 
 volunteers, were mostly dressed in the brown Spanish cloth 
 
13ij 
 
 of tliG country, with j^vecu or yellow facings ; sonic had 
 cliiikoes, others hroad-brininicd hats with the rim turned up at 
 one side, and all had cap-] dates of tin announcin;:; their desig- 
 nation. Some liad belts, others had none. They had no 
 pouches, but a broad band of soft brown leather in which 
 was ])laced a row of tin tubes, cacli Iiolding a cartridge, and 
 having a fold of leather to cover them, fastened round the 
 waist. There were several Swiss regiments, also dressed in 
 brown. Two or three regiments, which had formerly been 
 composed of Irish, still retained the name of Ihyimcnts 
 d'Irlanda, iJc Jlihcrnia, Sec, in red uniforiDS with blue facings, 
 and a liarp on the collar of the jacket. They had only a few 
 oilicevs, who were Irish or of Irish extraction, The most 
 edieient corps were the Walloon Guards, who were all sup- 
 posed to be Flemish Walloons, but they were principally 
 German Swiss, with a number of other foreigners. They 
 wore a blue uniform with red facings, bordered with white 
 lace, and they had silver epaulets and ornaments. The 
 cavalry consisted of heavy and light dragoons, with some 
 regiments of hussars. Some were tolerably well dressed, 
 in blue unil'orms with red facings, others in yellow with red 
 facings. Some had boots, but many wore long leather 
 leggings, whicli came up several inches above the knee. The 
 horses in general were small, active, and hardy, of the 
 Spanish Barbary breed. 
 
 Everything indicated the appearance of an antiquated 
 system ; nothing of the new school in the art of war seemed 
 to have been adopted in the Spanish army. The proud 
 Castilians seemed still to believe that they were the same 
 energetic race who mahitained a high degree of celebrity in 
 Europe, and became the conquerors of the new world. They 
 still clung to the ancient customs and prejudices, and seemed 
 to be altogether unconscious of their inferiority. 
 
 As the army kept advancing, so the enemy continued to 
 March to retire, covered by their skirmishers. Our cavalry, 
 Tiiiavoni. howcvor, drovc them from the town of Talavcra, 
 and from the olive-groves in its vicinity, while they, to mask 
 
137 
 
 their rotroat, set fire to the dry stubble, which created a great 
 smoke and concealed tlieni from our view. They succeeded in 
 joiiiiiifi' their main l)ody, wiiicli occupied a jiosition on the 
 oilier side of the river Alborehe, about two leagues beyond 
 Talavera. Thi-ir left rested on the Tagus, and their right on 
 a bend of tlic Alborehe and some broken wooded heights 
 about two miles from where that river unites with the Tagus. 
 Their numbers were said to be about 55,000 men. 
 
 We bivouacked in the olive-groves to the left of the town 
 of Talavera, which is sitiuitcd on the right bank of rni>ivcnmc. 
 the Tagus, over which there is a fine bridge. General '^''i"^'-'™- 
 Mackeu/iie's division was pushed on as an advance-guard to 
 watch the enemy. 
 
 On the 23rd July wc understood that we were to attack 
 the enemy. Wo were accordingly under arms be- o:i,.,ijuiy, 
 fore three o'clock in the morning, but had moved ^^^^' 
 only a short distance when wc were halted, and the men kept 
 standing under arms. Xo one could tell the reason, but there 
 wc were kept for several hours in a miserable state of suspense, 
 all being hungry, and no one having anything to eat. No 
 cooking could be done, as from our not having been dismissed 
 wc expected every moment to receive orders to proceed. 
 However, late in the afternoon, wo were at last informed 
 that the men might cook their dinners. 
 
 We heard that the uncomfortable position we had been 
 placed in was owing to the obstinacy of the old Spaniard 
 Cuesta, who under various pretences declined to assist in 
 attacking the enemy that day, and, among other reasons, it 
 was said that he alleged it was Sunday. He, however, agreed 
 to co-operate next day, the 24th. 
 
 About eleven o'clock at night, I being the officer of the 
 day, was called up to take charge of a fatigue party of six 
 men of each company, with orders to proceed into the town 
 and to have all the men's canteens filled with water. So off 
 we went in the dead of night, each man carrying eight or ten 
 canteens. But the puzzle was, after getting into the town, 
 where to find the water in the obscurity of darkness. We 
 
138 
 
 succeeded in finding one or two public fountains, but as so 
 many from various other corps were on the same errand, the 
 supply was not ecpud to th(! demand. So some knocked at one 
 door, and others at anotlier, all l)ellt)win<:; out, " A(|ua! Aqua! " 
 The frightened inhabitants, delighted to lind that the re([uisi- 
 tion was of so simple a nature, and not for wine, gladly 
 supplied our wants. 
 
 On regaining the bivouac about two o'clock in the 
 24iujuiy, morning of the 24th July, we found the troops 
 ^^^^' getting under arms, with orders to make as little 
 
 noise as possible. No drums were allowed to beat or bugles 
 to sound; it was therefore clear to everyone that we were now 
 about to attack the enemy. After the disappointment of 
 yesterday, everybody was in high spirits. While the 
 parade was forming I had the pleasure to find that my school- 
 sir a. Lcitu fellow, friend and country neighbour, Andrew 
 ^''^'" Leith Hay, who had got a lieutenancy in the 
 
 regiment, had just arrived with our senior. Captain Tucker. 
 
 We moved off in the greatest silence about three o'clock 
 A.M., diverging to our left hand as we advanced towards the 
 enemy. AVhen the column had marched about five miles we 
 were halted. The 29tli licgiment, the leading one, was 
 deployed into line. The next regiment did the same at about 
 ten paces in our rear, and all the following ones did the same, 
 so that the whole division stood in column of regiments in 
 line. We now understood that we were within gunshot range 
 of the enemy's position, and that we were only waiting to 
 hear that our right and centre columns had commenced to 
 attack the enemy's left, for us to dash on and carry the key 
 of his position. 
 
 But we waited in vain ; no firing was heard, no cheer of 
 success greeted our cars — !dl was silence. Day was fast 
 breaking. The men became impatient ; eager murmurings 
 were heard on every hand, " Why don't we advance ? " While 
 we were in this state of suspense, the gallant Lord Hill, 
 commander of our column, came back from the front with 
 evident vexation, and announced that the enemy had 
 
139 
 
 rctrciited and tlicio WduUl be no lighting. This intellij^'cnco 
 was vecuived in niortitied silence. 
 
 Colonel l)e Lauiiey, of Llie Qunrtorniastev-Ciencral's depart- 
 iiioiit, soon afterwai'ds upiicarrd, l)iin<,nnj^' with him a French 
 oflicer whom he had taken prisoner. It a^jpeared that the 
 Colonel, a most dariii^f and enterprising odleer, had during the 
 night gained the Hank of the French army. Finding that 
 they were moving olf, he secreted himself near the road, so 
 that he could observe their numbers as they ])assed. After 
 the whole had departed, this ofliccr, having forgot his watch 
 in the bivouac, returned in search of it, when Colonel De 
 Launey, with his orderly dragoon, pounced upon him, and 
 made him their cai)ture. He was a very handsome young 
 man in green uniform. 
 
 We were shortly afterwards counter-marched, and moved 
 back to our bivouac in the olive-groves, in the vicinity of 
 Talavera. That of my regiment was close on the left side of 
 the main road t(j IMadrid, and only aljout a quarter of a mile 
 in front of the town. On arriving there we found 
 our baggage wailing for us. Our paymaster and his 
 coadjutor, the clerk, were likewise on the qui vive awaiting 
 our arrival, it being the 24th — muster-day. He said 
 with a gracious smile, "Gentlemen, I shall now have the 
 pleasure of mustering you all, which is more than I ex- 
 pected ". 
 
 The great disadvantage of not having attacked the enemy 
 on the 23rd July, as our gallant connnander. Sir Arthur 
 Wellesley, had wished, became evident to everyone. Marshal 
 Victor, with only about 25,000 men, had waited for us : we, 
 on the other hand, had 19,000 F.ritish and nearly 50,000 
 Spanish troops, which could easily have defeated the French, 
 and would most probably have succeeded in opening ^ladrid 
 to us. But owing to the procrastination of Cuesta, this 
 golden opportunity was lost; Victor, learning that Joseph 
 Bonaparte was hastening with reinforcements to support him, ' 
 fell back to meet them. 
 
 Now that the enemy had disappeared from our front, old 
 
140 
 
 Cuesta bccanu! full of lii^ht. Ifo tlcLemiiiUHl to puvsuo, 
 cnwu'H ^^ ^^ ^^^^ enumy had ln'cn boatcu iukI was llyiiii,' in 
 ruimiKo. (lisoidur. He puslunl his army ucrossi the Albcrche, 
 took post at Snntii Ohilla, and established his advanced posts 
 2f)tii July, ^^^ ToiriyoiH on the 'i.jth duly. Sir Avtluu' Wellesley 
 1800. more prudently sent only an advanced guard across 
 
 tlio Albcrche, under General Mackenzie, who occupied Casa- 
 Icguas. 
 
 Duriu}^ the whole day of the 2olh all seemed to remain 
 quiet. There were no movements in our bivouac, and wo 
 mujiiiy, boiu'^1 no reports, but on the morning of the 20th 
 !»"*'• July reports reached us from the front that the 
 
 French had reappeared. L.'ite in the afternoon rpiantitics of 
 Spanish baggage began to pass us to the rear, and soon after- 
 wards many wounded ami numerous runaways, who informed 
 us that the French had attacked their advanced post, which 
 Cuosta had been obliged to draw in, and that the Spanish 
 army was retiring. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th July we, as usual, turned out 
 and stood to our arms an hour before daybreak. Even at 
 that early hour symptoms of the Spaniards being in retreat 
 began to appear. Herds of cattle, pigs, and sheep, moving to 
 the rear passed us, then followed ammunition waggons and 
 baggage, and a few hours afterwards came the infantry, 
 artillery, and cavalry. 
 
 As our tent was within a few paces of the road, I got 
 accounts of what was going on from the Spaniards as they 
 passed. While in conversation with some of them. General 
 Hill rode up and asked me if I could tell him what was 
 going on in front. I detailed all the particulars I had 
 learned. He then said, " All 1 know is this, that if the 
 enemy advance to attack us, we shall occupy the ground 
 from the river here on our right to the pointed hill on the 
 left". Captain Melish, of the Quartermaster-Gcnerars 
 department, told the General that he was going forward to see 
 wliat was going on, and on his return would let him know. 
 
 The truth was, that King Joseph, with a force from 
 
Ul 
 
 Miulrid, had joineil Si'lKislimii, who \vi\;-! nt Toledo, and l\ad 
 thiiii ])ivssi'd on (o unite with Marsliul Victor, The, united 
 French forces had (hen attached Ciie.sta's advanced guard 
 with j^reat vigour, and caused the Sjianiards to retire in 
 great ha.sto across tlie Alherche. 
 
 Karly on the L'Tth July our cavalry were ordered to the 
 front to sni)])()it our advanced guard, and to cover ortiijuiy, 
 the retreat of the S]ianish army. Ahout midday ''"'"• 
 the enemy ait]»eared in front of our advanced guard, which 
 then retired from Casalegnas, tlu'ough a wood, across the 
 Alherche, and drew np at a sliort distance on the right hank 
 in front of an old ruin or wimlmill. While resting in this 
 position with piled arms, the enemy, under cover of the wood, 
 had pushed on so very close that they unexpectedly opened 
 fire on our troops. Some confusion arose from this circum- 
 stance. Our troops were M'ithdrawn iVom tlio wood into the 
 plain, where order was restored, and the whole began to retire 
 in regular order, closely followed by the enemy. 
 
 We now liad certain intelligence that the enemy was 
 I^'essing on in force. Wounded men from our advanced 
 guard began to come in, and the report of cannon announced 
 to us that a battle was at liund. We ordered our dinner to 
 be cooked in all haste, and lost no time in despatching it. 
 We then had our tent and baggage jjacked. This foresight 
 was well-timed, for shortly afterwards the drums boat to 
 arms, the bugles sounded the alarm, and we got orders to 
 move to our left. The Spanisli army began to take up their 
 position on the ground we were ({uitting, forming in two 
 lines with reserves in the rear. 
 
 To understand the positions on the field of battle, it may 
 be stated that our line of defence ran from the Tagus Riiti.su 
 on our right to a conical hill about two miles on tuLivui-.i. 
 the left. The town of Talavera, situated on the left bank of 
 the river, was about half a mile in the rear, and the Madrid 
 road running east from it was parallel to the Tagus at a 
 short distance from its bank. On this road, and nearly 
 half a mile from the town, stood a church, in front of \vhich 
 
142 
 
 field-works were thrown up, and a battery of S])anisli heavy 
 guns placed on it so as to command the road and the space 
 between it and the Ta!:;us. This point l)ecame properly the 
 right of our position. From this, and for a mile towards 
 the left, the country was level, but covered witli gnrdens, 
 olive-groves, and vineyards, and wasmucli intersected l)y (liick 
 earthen walls, which rendered it very defensible. Here the 
 Spaniards were posted. 
 
 From the edge of those wooded enclosures the ground was 
 open, and began to rise gradually, until it readied tlio summit 
 of a conical point of a range of green hills on the left. Ijcyond 
 these hills, which were very steep, on the other, or north side, 
 there was a valley, and beyond that commenced a l)roken 
 rocky mountainous country, impassabh^ for troops, which 
 enclosed the position on that flank. The whole space from 
 the enclosure to the hills was occupied by the Ih'itish, who 
 formed the left wing of the army, while some light troops 
 and cavalry were placed in the village beyond. 
 
 Near the Ih-itish right flank, and just clear of the olive- 
 groves, was a large knoll, on which some works were begun 
 to be thrown up, and a brigade of T'ritish guns was placed 
 there in battery. The bed of adried-up stream, coming from 
 the mountains, ran along the whole fiont of the position 
 down to the Tagus. 
 
 Between four and five o'clock in the afternoon our bricade 
 moved off, left in front, between the Spanish lines. The 
 Spaniards appeared very valiant, and cried out, "liompez 
 Ids Franceses ". 
 
 We could now hear smart musketrv firing; croin" on 
 Battle of between our advanced guard and the enemy. The 
 Taiavera. gouud of canuou and small arms seemed approach- 
 ing us very rapidly. On getting clear of the enclosures and 
 gaining the lower slope of the hill, our brigade, the 29th 
 Eegiment, one battalion of detachments, and one battalion 
 of the 48tli liegiment, was drawn up in rear of the front li'ie. 
 We could now see our advanced guard retiring across the 
 plain, closely pursued by the enemy. A portion of the 
 
143 
 
 advanced guard moved directly towards us, and passed 
 through our lino, and proceeded to the different places in 
 position. Diu'ing this the French kept up a continued fire 
 against []\vu\ of shot iind slicll, which were now falling thick 
 and fast amongst us. While this cannonade continued we 
 were ordered to lie down. As the evening was now closing, 
 and darkness began to prevail, we could discern the shells and 
 time their course from the moment they left the month of the 
 howitzers by their fuses burning like brilliant stars as they 
 rose in the air, then rapidly descending right down upon us, 
 or breaking over our heads. j\Iany of us made narrow 
 escapes, but on the whole no very serious loss was occasioned. 
 The firing ceased, and all seemed hushed and (piiet. We lay on 
 the ground with our arms in hand. The niglit became very 
 dark and gloomy. We had continued in this way nearly an 
 hour, when in a monu'.nt, about nine o'clock, there opened a 
 tremendous lire on the top of the hill on our left, and which 
 seemed to have been taken up and ran down the first line in 
 our front. It was now evident that the enemy had made a 
 dash at this, the key of our position, and were in possession 
 of the top, as we could, by the blaze of fire-arms and the 
 fiashes of light, distinguish the faces of the French and those 
 of our own troops returning the fire. 
 
 The 29th IJegimcnt was immediately thrown into open 
 column, left in front, and instantly moved up the hill to 
 attack the enemy, directing our march between the fire of 
 both parties. Without halting, our left made a dashing charge, 
 and after a short but desperate sti'uggle drove the French off 
 the summit of the position. Wo then wheeled into line, 
 advanced obliquely to our left, and opened our fire on the 
 French reserves which were pushing up in support of their 
 discomfited comrades. Tliis decided the affair ; the enemy 
 was completely overthrown and fled in confusion, leaving 
 the ground strewed with their dead, dying, and wounded, 
 among whom was the colonel of the 9th French Regiment, 
 and quantities of arms and accoutrements. During this 
 affair, when we formed into line, our right companies were 
 
144 
 
 some way clown the slope of the hill. We could see the French 
 column moving up across our front, tlieir drums beating 
 the charge, and we could hear their ollicers giving orders and 
 encouraging their men, calling out, "En avant, Franca is ! 
 En avant, mes enfants ! " F)Ut our well-directed volleys and 
 cheers of victory stopped their progress, and their shattered 
 columns returned in disnuiy. The wounded and the prisoners 
 informed us that they were part of (leneral Iiufin's division. 
 The 29th licgiment took possession of the top of the hill, our 
 colours being planted on the summit. 
 
 It was evident that the troops posted on the hill had 
 been surprised, owing, no doubt, to the neglect of the 
 common precaution of throwing out picpiets and a chain of 
 sentries along their front. We understood that the corps con- 
 sisted of the German Legion. General Donkin's brigade assisted 
 us to repel another attack made during the night on our 
 position. 
 
 How we, the 29th ricgimeut, who were the right regiment 
 of the brigade, got so gloriously into the fight I could not tell ; 
 but this I know, that as we were advancing uj) to the attack 
 we came upon our next left regiment, the battalion of detach- 
 ments, who appeared to have got into confusion, and we 
 pushed our way through them to rush at the enemy. The 
 gallant soldiers of the battalion seemed much vexed; they were 
 bravely calling out, " There is nobody to command us ! Only 
 tell us what to do, and we are ready to dare anything." There 
 was a fault somewhere. We afterwards found, on re-forming, 
 that we had been the centre regiment, the first battalion of 
 the 48th liegiment being on our left, and the battalion of 
 detachments on our right. 
 
 We had the good fortune to rescue our General Hill, who, 
 in leading us to the attack, and being anxious to see what was 
 doing in front, gallantly dashed on a little too far and got 
 into the French ranks. They had seized the reins of his horse, 
 and would have had him prisoner had we not immediately 
 charged on and thus rescued him. But Major Fordyce on his 
 staff was killed, and Captain Gardiner mortally wounded. 
 
145 
 
 As soon as the 29th Regiment had established themselves 
 on the hill, and we had reformed our line in a proper position, 
 a corporal and three men of each company, under an officer, 
 were thrown out as a piquet in front, and a portion formed a 
 chain of sentries, while our line lay down, each man with 
 his arms in his hands, and all upon the alert. Nor wore these 
 piecautions unnecessary. The French piquets frequently 
 during the night ducked up at various places, gave loud 
 huzzaiis, fired a volley, and then as hastily retired again. 
 Indeed, we were so close that we could hear the French 
 sentries challenging their visiting rounds, and calling out, "(,^ui 
 vive ! " On these salutes taking place we always stood 
 instantly to our arms, and when the advanced piquet an- 
 nounced all quiet we lay down on the ground again. In 
 some instances several advanced sentries of some of our 
 regiments, being young soldiers, fired, so that the W(jrd 
 "Stand to your arms" was frequently passed along the 
 line. 
 
 The Spaniards had also their alarm on the right, about 
 midnight, but whether real or imaginary never could be ascer- 
 tained. It was not confined to one spot, for it spread right 
 and left, and they opened a running fire along their whole 
 line, which lasted for some time, until many corps, scared by 
 they knew not what, fled to the rear, and it was only with 
 great difficulty, we were told, that they were brought back 
 into their places in line again. 
 
 From our commanding position on the hill we had a 
 grand and sublime view of this midnight scene. The 
 lengthened blaze of the Spanish fire, running up and down 
 the lines, and the flashing of their artillery had a magnificent 
 effect. While looking towards the enemy in our front, we 
 beheld a kind of illumination moving in advance in certain 
 directions. This was caused, no doubt, by a number of 
 Jlamheaiix which they carried at the head of their reserves and 
 artillery to enable them to find their various routes to their 
 proper places in their position. 
 
 About one or two o'clock in the morning of the 28th July 
 
 10 
 
146 
 
 tlio iiinnn bctfan to oivo some li.i^'ht. As it became sh'onfrer 
 28tii .Tilly ^^'^' ("'''il'^ soe blnnk pnlclies niuvinn- in tlic plniii im- 
 '*"'■ iiUMliiitcly ill front of us, an<l tlion l)Oconi(! stiitionniy 
 
 directly opposite to \is. This wiis no otliev than their columns 
 forming' in mass for attack. We could also hear the noise of 
 wheels nnd the cracking of whips as they brought up their 
 guns to ])laiit them against us. All this Avas extremely 
 sjdendid and exciting, but nature will under all circumstances 
 have her sway. No sooner was any nlert over than we sank 
 down and dropped asleep. Although T had no greatcoat or 
 covering of any kind, and only an old tin pot which chance 
 thnnv in my way for a pillow, yet I got two or three profound 
 naps during the intervnls we were allowed to rest. 
 
 It may be naturally supposed that we looked most 
 anxiously for niorning, and as tlie day began to break all eyes 
 were strained to discern th(} disposition of the enemy. As 
 things became more visible a very imposing sight presented 
 its(!lf to our view. The whole dis])osition of the enemy's force 
 could be clearly distinguished. Tn tlu; first place, immediately 
 beneath us was formed a heavy solid column on the brink of 
 the raviiu>, with reserves in its rear, with field batteries on 
 both fianks, and the guns already pointed towards us, while 
 light ti'oo]"is were thrown out as tiraiUcvrs to cover their front 
 and prepare the way for a grand attack, which was evidently 
 to be directed against us on the hill. At some distance to the 
 right were formed other masses in like manner. Others 
 W(.'re also formed in front of our allies the Spaniards. The 
 columns of reserve, cav.alry, spare artillery, and baggage 
 extended a long way back in their rear. 
 
 Our own lines presented an animated but not so formid- 
 able a]ipearance, owing to the nature of our formation. Our 
 front showed an extended line only two deep, with the reserve 
 placed at various distances along its rear. The disposition 
 made by our experienced commander seemed most perfect to 
 meet the meditated attack, and as, after the enemy's first 
 attempt on the previous evening, all our troops had got into 
 the proper place assigned to them in our position, every- 
 
147 
 
 thing appeared in coniplote reailiuess for whatever might 
 hai>pen. 
 
 As tlie sky hegan to redden witli tlie Hrst bhisli of tlio 
 morning snn, a gleam of animation was (In-own over both 
 armies, which onr ehjvated position enabkul ns to survey. 
 The piquets in front were witlidrawn. and our liglit company, 
 and others of the bi'igade were thrown out as skirmishers to 
 cover our front. The still of the morning was broken by no 
 warlike sound. xV solenni silence prevailed on both sides. 
 Our view was extensive, and the scene befon^ us was most 
 imposing and sublime. While we were contem[)lating this. 
 Sir Arthur Wellesley rode up in rear of our regiment, the 29th, 
 and then going to the front seemed to survey the enemy with 
 great earnestness. Much about the same time we could 
 plainly discern Joseph ?)onaparte and a large suite of staff in 
 his train coming up at full gallop in rear of the French masses 
 in our front. 
 
 All was yet breatliless silence, when we perceived the 
 smoke of a gun curling up in the air, and heard the report 
 of a single cannon. This appeared to be the signal for 
 putting tlic enemy's columns in motion. We were iiot 
 detained long in suspense. In a moment a tremendous 
 cannonade opened upon us on the hill, and on the regiment 
 stationed on the lower part of the slope to our right. We 
 could then see the French skirmishers dash up and push 
 rapidly on, while the columns immediately in front of us got 
 in motion, advancing towards us. It wns now evident that 
 the enemy intended if possible to turn our left, and to storm 
 and seize the hill, the key of our position, which they had 
 taken and lost the night before. General Hill, seeing the 
 overwhelming force that was coming against us, gave orders 
 that the light troops should be recalled, and the bugles sounded 
 accordingly. The skirmishers were closing in and fding to 
 the rear with all the regularity of field-day and parade exer- 
 cise, which the General observing, called out, " 1) n 
 
 their filing, let them come in anyhow ". 
 
 In order to cover the advance of their columns the enemy 
 
148 
 
 continued tlic terrifh? cannonade, whieli bccanio so flestructivo 
 that wc were ordered to lie down Hat on the ground. The 
 shot ihnv thick and fast about us, hut it went principally 
 over ns, tlie trims hoinj,' too nnicli ohivated ; but not so with 
 the 4r)th lieL^inient below us on the right: we could see large 
 ga] s made at times in their rardcs by the round shots. 
 
 At length the French cohnnn of attack, which had pushed 
 vigorously on notwithstanding tlu; well-sewed fire of our 
 artillery directed against them, began to approach us. We 
 took no notice of tlunn, but allowed them to come up pretty 
 close to us, wluni our Ih'igadier-tJeneral, IJichard Steward, 
 said, "Xow, 20th ! now is your time !" We instantly sprang 
 to our feet, gave three tremendous cheers, and immediately 
 opened our fire, giving them several well-directed volleys, 
 which they gallantly returned ; but we checked their advance, 
 and they halted to continue the battle with small arms. We 
 then got orders to charge, which was no sooner said than 
 done. In we went, a wall of stout hearts and bristling steel. 
 The French did not fancy such close quarters. The moment 
 we made the rush they began to waver, then went to the 
 right about. The principal portion broke and fled, but some 
 brave fellows occasionally faced about and gave us an irregu- 
 lar tire. We, however, kept dashing on, and drove them all 
 headlong right before us down the hill into their own lines 
 again. We kept following them up, firing, running, and 
 cheering. In the midst of the exultation, about seven o'clock 
 A.M., I received a ball in the side of my thigh, about three 
 inches above the right knee. The sudden and violent con- 
 cussion made me dance round, and I fell on my back'. I 
 immediately put my hand on the wound, Avhich was bleeding 
 profusely, to feel if the bone of my leg was broken, and, to 
 my great satisfaction, I found that it was not. As I found 
 myself unable to rise, I called for assistance, but from the 
 noise and hurry of battle no one seemed to take notice of me. 
 At length my friend, Andrew Leitli Hay, perceived me. He 
 raised me up, and then, taking the musket out of the hand of 
 Corporal Sharp of my company, he directed him to conduct 
 
149 
 
 me out of action, and to fnid out tliu .sur^oous. With liis 
 assistance, and that of another man, who was wounduil in tiio 
 arm, I hmped oft', In (]uittiug tho lield, I passed near 8ir 
 Arthur WoUesley, the Commander-in-Chief. He looked at 
 me, seeing the hlood streaming down my white trousers, but 
 he said nothing. [ then passed through our second line, 
 whicii, without, of course, being able to take any part in the 
 action, was suffering much from round shot and shells falling 
 amongst them. Indeed, I was nearly knocked over, and I 
 made a narrow escape of being killed even at some distance 
 in the rear. A shell came whizzing close to our heads, and 
 alighted a few feet in front of us, throwing up the earth in 
 our faces, but it fortunately bounded to the left down the 
 slope of the hill, when it exploded. I soon afterwards reached 
 my friend, Dr. Guthrie, who with his assistants were actively 
 employed in amputating legs and arms. 
 
 I have collected from the reports of various Iriends the 
 following account of the continuation of the battle after I was 
 wounded, and obliged to quit the field. 
 
 Our regiment, the 29th, and the battalion of detachments 
 pursued the defeated enemy even across the ravine where the 
 reserve was formed. Our troops were recalled, but in retiring 
 up the hill again they were exposed to a destructive fire fr(jni 
 the enemy's guns. They reformed line again a little in rear 
 of the crest of the position, so as to be covered as much as 
 possible from the effects of the cannonade, which still con- 
 tinued along the whole line for upwards of an hour. How- 
 ever, on its ceasing, men from both armies were sent out to 
 collect the wounded. They intermixed in the most friendly 
 terms. Lieutenant Langton, of the 29th Kegimeut, ga^'e to a 
 French officer two crosses of the i^egion of Honour wliich had 
 belonged to otHcers killed far up the hill. TJie destruction 
 we had occasioned in the French ranks was evident to every- 
 one. The whole face of the hill was covered with the dead 
 and dying. 
 
 All symptoms of strife had now ceased. The enemy 
 liuhted fires and evideuth' commenced to cook, while our 
 
150 
 
 bravo fellows liad (inly tlioir morsel of biscuit ami a iiioutlil'iil 
 of rum or wine. 
 
 About twelve o'clock noon the enemy begun to get in 
 motion again. Their reserve were seen closing up from the 
 rear, it was evident a renewed attack was about to take 
 place. Heavy masses were formed in front of the centre. 
 Two large colunms pointed to the valley on the hift of the 
 hill, and a body of light troops were seen moving to gain the 
 distant range of hills on the other side of the valley, clearly 
 demonstrating that they would endeavour to turn our left 
 Hank while they attempted to force our centre. To cover 
 this disp(j.sition, about one o'clock p.m., they opened a general 
 cannonade along our whole line, and a vigorous attack was 
 made on our centre. The guards aUowed the French column 
 to come up (piite close to them. When the guarels advanced 
 with a hurrah to meet them with the bayonet, they would 
 not stand, but giving a rambling fire, they turned and fled. 
 Flushed by this success, the guards followed them up too far, 
 and left their flank exposed. Of this the enemy took advan- 
 tiige, and opened a destructive hre of guns and small arms. 
 The guards, not having recovered their order after the charge, 
 were in rather a perilous position. Sir Arthur AVellesley seeing 
 this, oidered the LiOth Itegiment down to cover them; but as 
 the regiment had suffered so much during the previous attack, 
 the 48th IJeginuiUt was sent instead. Under cover of this 
 corps the guards made good their way to the rear, where 
 they re-formed, and again took their place in the position. 
 Simultaneously with this attack on the guards, the enemy 
 likewise attacked positions held by the 7th and the 53rd 
 licgiments. 
 
 While these several attacks were going on in the centre 
 and right, the enemy also renewed their attempt on our left. 
 A Spanish corps under General IJasscourt was moved across 
 the valley to keep the column which had outflanked us in the 
 mountain ridge in check. In this they effectually succeeded. 
 After tluMr defeat in the morning, the enemy did not venture 
 to attack the hill again, but they endeavoured to push two 
 
151 
 
 largo columns into tliu valley on its lull, witii a vit;w of 
 tinning our position. To ]»r(^vont tiiis tlireatonud nioveiuent, 
 (Juneral Anson's lirigado of tiic 2;)r(l Light Dragoons ami the 
 (Jcrnian Legion rocoivod (n'dors to chock the advance of tlio 
 French. The cavalry advanced gallantly, regardless of the 
 fire of several battalions of French infantry. L'nl'ortnnately, 
 the front of the enemy was protected by a dee]» ravine which 
 was i'ound impassable for hors(;s, A considerable liudy of the 
 23nl, however, succeeded in crossing it, and fell on two 
 regiments of mounted chasseurs, which at once gave way. 
 The 23rd was then charged by the rolish lancers and the 
 Westphalian light horse, and was surroun<led, broken, and 
 half of them destroyed. However, this desperate charge and 
 brave conduct of our dragoons so astonished the enemy, that 
 seeing our other corps of light cavalry also formed ready to 
 advance in the same manner, they Inwight their colunms to a 
 stand, and no further attempts were made to gain possession 
 of the hill. 
 
 The enemy being thus repulsed and defeated at all points, 
 and having sustained a fearful loss vt men, twenty pieces of 
 cannon, and several thousand stands of arms, towards evening 
 made dispositions for retreating, by drawing oil' their infantry 
 under cover of their numerous cavalry, and before daylight 
 next morning, the 2Uth July, they had all retired across the 
 Alberchc. General Kobert Crawford having joined the army 
 with the light brigade during the night, was instantly pushed 
 on in advance, and he established his outposts on the right 
 bank of the Alberchc. The unetiiy continued their rear-guard 
 on the opposite side until the 3 1st July, when they retired to 
 Santa Ollala. 
 
 The 29th liegiment had the honour of securing two 
 banners, or small silk standards, termed in French /anions, 
 belonging to the column which they defeated. On the top 
 of each staif were plates with screw-holes, indicating un- 
 questionably that eagles had been attached to them. The 
 bearers, on lindiif; their corps routed, had un.scrc'wcd tlu; 
 eagles and concealed them about their persons. The banners 
 
152 
 
 well! jtickctl up lyiiij,' amongst thu dead in front of our 
 rcoimcMit, On their l)cin'' carried to the connuander-in-chief 
 he most handsomely desired that the regiment sliould keep 
 them as a memorial of their gallant conduct. 
 
 The brunt of this hard-fought battle fell upon the ]'>riti3h. 
 Indeed the Spanish army, it may be said, did nothing, with 
 the exception of their artillery, the cavalry regiment del Key, 
 and the liglit corps, who were detached to skirmish and keep 
 th(! I'rencli in check on the rocky hills on our left. All the 
 rest merely occupied their places in the covered ground. 
 
 After the grand attack on the centre, the wadding of the 
 guns, which kept smouldering on the ground, set fire to the 
 dry grass and standing corn. The blazing element spread 
 with great rapidity up and down the intervals between the 
 contending armies. This proved a sad calamity, because all 
 Wdiiiuitd those wounded, who were so maimed and helpless 
 Ji^i'tii. that they could not get out of the way, perished in 
 
 tliis wild tire. 
 
 When the enemy made their grand attack on the hill in 
 the morning, our artillery posted on the summit fired over 
 our heads as we advanced to meet the foe. One shot i)assed 
 so near our Ihigadier-Gcneral liichard Stewart and Lieutenant 
 Duguid of our regiment that the wind of it carried off both 
 their cocked hats. In the hurry of the engagement the Lieu- 
 tenant picked up the General's hat and put it on, thinking it 
 all right. Dut when he returned to our position, after driving 
 the enemy down the hill, he, to his surprise, was accosted by 
 an orderly sergeant demanding the General's hat. 
 
 Just as the action was about to commence one of our 
 incidontsof assistaut surgeons, Dr. Kellv, was ordered by StafF- 
 ofTiihivoivi. Surgeon Guning, attaclied to headquarters, to pro- 
 ceed down to our centi'e, and to inform Sir John Sherbrooke 
 that in the event of any accident happening to him or any 
 of his staff. Dr. Guning would be found at a place 
 indicated in the rear. The young Esculapius hinted that he 
 had no horse, and that it would occupy much time to walk 
 there and back again, during which time his services might 
 
153 
 
 bo urgtuiLly Wiintud in surgical (tiienitiuiis. Tlic ;;u(Hl-iiatured 
 stiiH-Hurj^'LMin instantly tlisiiiountcMl, sayiiij,', " Tako mine, and 
 return without dtilay ". Scarciily had our young medico 
 started when the treniendnus canuonaile burst upon us. A 
 caunot-shot which had passed over our heatls in an instant 
 carried off the head of the horse as he cantered Tiiuhcad. 
 down the rear of the Hue. lie, more friylitened ,uT,i thr" 
 than hurt, gathered liiiiisulf up and ran back as '''"'''"'"■ 
 hard as he couhl to re[)ort what had liai)penetl. This was 
 u sad piece of iuLclligeuce to the good doctor. His holsters 
 had been well crammed with comforts, his ample military 
 cloak neatly rolknl up and strapped over them ; but worse 
 than all, his round valise-portmanteau fastened behind, be- 
 sides a change of linen, contained all liis fund of ready- 
 money. The young medico, not being aware of this, or 
 frojn want of reilection, abandoned all, which of course 
 became a i)rey to the first roaming plunderer in the rear. 
 
 During the grand attack on the centre, the 97th Ilegi- 
 ment made a gallant charge. The French broke and fled. 
 In the ardour of imrsuit and consequent vicle'c, Major 
 MacCarthy got mixed with the enemy. They had hold of 
 his horse's bridle, and in their flight were dragging him along 
 with them. In an agony of despair he roared out, " Shure is 
 there no Connaught man that will save me ? " And sure 
 enough some of his brave countrymen instantly made a dash, 
 with a loud hurrah, and brought him out triumphantly from 
 the hands of the foe. 
 
 When our advanced guard was on the Alberche on the 
 2r)th July, previous to the battle, Mr. Swinburn, one of our 
 commissaries, was at .Santa Ollala collecting provisions. He 
 had gone out in the morning to a village some distance off to 
 procure supplies, leaving all quiet and no immediate appre- 
 hension of the enemy. On his return in the evening, not 
 doubting but that the Spaniards and our outposts were still 
 there, he rode quietly into the town, now in possession of 
 the enemy, and was of course made prisoner. He was 
 carried before Josei)h Bonaparte and Marshal Jourdau, who 
 
questioned liiiu very elusely ivgimling uur ilesi^^n.s and 
 miinber. He evaded imMWeiiiiy in the bent nmiHier ho 
 cuuld. Th(;y Hceineil (|uiU! increilulous when lie mentioned 
 that our commander was Sir Arthur WellesK-y in peison. 
 The next morninj,' he was brouj^dit into the French hues and 
 inudo to uccom[)any -loseph and -Fourdan (hning the battle, 
 sometimes at the risk of his life l»ein<,' (uUen by his friends, 
 for our htny shots were liyinjj; about their ears. They per- 
 sisted in cross-questioning him re^anlinj^' the tlilferent 
 divisions and corps of our army, our strength, and the names 
 of the dill'erent generals. (Jn his declining to satisfy them 
 Jourdan pulled out a memorandum-book and read to him a 
 statement of our force, which on the whole was more correct 
 than could have been c.\[)ected. They treated him, however, 
 very well, and in a day or two they allowed him to return, as 
 being considered a non-combatant. 
 
 When 1 went to the rear after being wounded and found 
 Dr. Guthrie, our surgeon, he examined my wound and pro- 
 nounced it to be very severe, but he trusted that it would not 
 prove dangerous. He could not extract the ball, which 
 .•^ seemed to have taken an obi {(pie direction downwards. He 
 dressed and then bound up my wound, and recommended me 
 to go to the rear where the baggage had been ordered to 
 rendezvous, and not to g(j into the town, as everyone seemed 
 to doubt if the Spaniards would stand their grijund, and pre- 
 vent the enemy from forcing their way into it. So leaving 
 him we fell in with a stray horse, which had either broken 
 loose, or whose owner had fallen. So 1 was lifted upon it, 
 but my blood was now getting cool, my leg very still', and the 
 pain occasioned by the motion intolerable. I therefore got 
 ofl", and hobbled along with my two supporters. On my way 
 I came up to Captain I'oole of the 52nd liegimeut, who 
 belonged to the first battalion of detachments, and our 
 Brigade Commissary, ]\lr. Brook, The Captain t(dd me that 
 he had been seized with a fever during the attack on the hill 
 on the previous evenhig, and had not been able to ascend it 
 with his battalion. Uur dispenser oi bread, a more daring 
 
lo5 
 
 .spiiit, iiukIi! iiiiiny iiuiuiries about wluiL wns yuing on, and 
 aMlvt'd luu if thuiv was any |)ossil)ility of lii.s j^tittiiiy a vinw 
 of the balllf. 1 told liini lio had oidy to iiiako haste up to 
 the peak of this hill, and that ho iidi^ht thou {^ratify his 
 curiosity. Ho instantly started oil'. I'oor soul! to follow 
 such witless advice ! Scarcely had ho reached the top, and 
 yot a jx'ijp of tlu; enemy when he was hit in the paunch by 
 a spent hall. The ball and the l'ri,^lit tinished hinj. Jle pined 
 and died a week (jr two afterwards. The Captain accompanied 
 me in search of our ba^'iLi,aj.,'e. We at length found it at a 
 sinyle house on the hii^h road from Talavera to Oropeza, 
 idjout two miles from the Held. 1 made my way into this 
 empty house. The batman of the company and some women 
 of the rei^inieiit L;ot me some straw, and a blanket beinr; 
 spread upon it, I was laid ilown. The pain of the wound 
 became very acute, but there was no remedy but to grin and 
 bear it. The poor women were in |j;reat distress. All came 
 in to visit me, and nuule many an.xious in(|uiries about the 
 fate of their husbands. 1 had the satishictioii of assurin^^ 
 four or five of them that their husbands were safe when I 
 left them, or only slightly wounded, but many others were 
 forlorn widows. They most kindly made sonuj tea for nie. 
 ]jut the absurd part was their symi)athy with the Captain. 
 They all asked him where he was hit, and trusted that he 
 was not badly wounded. He seemed sadly worried and per- 
 plexed what answer to give. lie replied in a faint voice that 
 he was extremely ill with fever. In about an hour afterwards, 
 perhaps nine o'clock a.m., Lieutenant Stanus of our regiment 
 was brought in also severely wounded. 
 
 Various reports began to sjjread ; some that the enemy 
 had made another attack, and had succeeded in forcing a 
 part of our line ; others that the enemy had sent troops into 
 the mountains on our left, and had succeeded in turning that 
 Hank. Cowardly runaways from the Spanish army continued 
 to pass to the rear in increased numbers, two or three of 
 these fellows frequently on one horse. From seeing this we 
 began to surmise that the enemy might really have defeated 
 
156 
 
 part of the Spanish force ; and as the baggage began to move 
 off farther to the rear, we doterniined to get on to a bullock 
 car, and to make the be^t of our way back to Oropeza, the 
 nearest town in our rear. Our friend the Captain, on the first 
 rumours of adverse reports, without waiting to inquire 
 whether they were likely to prove true or false, started up very 
 nimbly, mounted his pony, and set off in all haste out of 
 harm's way to the rear. 
 
 I should think we left the house about one or two o'clock 
 P.M. When we had got about three leagues we met General 
 Eobert Crawford hurrying on with the light brigade, con- 
 sisting of the 43rd and 52nd Light Infantry and the 95th 
 Eifle Corps. He directed the surgeon of the 43rd to give us any 
 advice we might rcjquire, and made the most anxious inquiries 
 regarding Sir Arthur Wellesley, and what was going on in 
 front. I gave him a short detail of the principal events. 
 He seemed much annoyed when I mentioned that Talavera 
 was about twelve miles off, and that I did not think he could 
 reach it before dark. At this moment Captain Pechell, aide- 
 de-camp to Major General Tilson, came up. He announced 
 that the enemy had been defeated at all points, and gave 
 orders to the baggage to countermarch and to return in all 
 haste to Talavera. He said to General Crawford, "These 
 gentlemen," meaning me and my friend Stanus, " belong to a 
 corps which has had the distinguished honour of charging 
 and defeating a large force of the enemy both last night and 
 this glorious day ". 
 
 We proceeded on our weary way. The bullocks moved 
 but slowly, and it was dark before we reached Oropeza. I 
 got a good billet, and Stanus got one on the opposite side of the 
 street. My servant had me carried in and laid on the bed, 
 and went off' to procure some necessary comforts. Wearied 
 out with loss of blood, and exhausted with fatigue, not having 
 had much rest for the three previous nights, I fell into a pro- 
 found sleep. My man, not wishing to disturb my repose, 
 allowed me to lie too long, and I awoke cold and comfortless, 
 my leg as stiff as a poker, very much swollen up, and the 
 
167 
 
 pain most tormenting. But I got some warm tea, and then 
 was undressed and put properly into bod. I consoled myself 
 with thinking how much my situation was better than that 
 of many others. 
 
 Although I passed rather a restless night I felt upon the 
 whole better than I expected next day, the 29th. 2!>thJuiy, 
 My friend, Lieutenant Htanus, sent over word that ^^" 
 there was good accommodation for another in his billet, and 
 bogged me to get moved across. In the afternoon, Colonel 
 Jenkinson of the Guards was brought to my door in a cart. 
 j\s the people did not seem disposed to admit him, I inti- 
 mated that I would go over to my friend. This was soon 
 accomplished, as they carried mc across mattress and all. 
 The pour Colonel, who was wounded in the knee, took 
 possession of my billet. lie was seized in two or three days 
 afterwards with lockjaw^, and died. A staff surgeon. Dr. 
 Macdougal, announced himself to us as being appointed to 
 take charge of the wounded. 
 
 I found our new billet as comfortable as circumstances 
 would permit. Our landlord, a kind-hearted person, procured 
 everything for us we desired. But our wounds began to be 
 very troublesome. Suppuration was proceeding, and slough- 
 ing took place, so we were obliged to keep applying bread 
 poultices. I however had the good fortune to have a most 
 charming nurse, no other than a daughter of our Nursed by a 
 host. She was a nun of the Order of Saint Clare. ^'«»- 1^''""-"- 
 The French having destroyed the convent, the establishment 
 was broken up, and she had returned to take refuge in her 
 father's house. She was dressed in a coarse grey habit. She 
 was young, extremely beautiful, mild and noble in coun- 
 tenance, had a charming disposition and most engaging 
 manner. She did everything in her power to assist us, get- 
 ting bandages for us, preparing poultices, bringing in choco- 
 late, and amusing us with cheerful conversation, relating to 
 us curious stories of these eventful times. 
 
 Fortunately, I understood a little the dressing of wounds. 
 Our only medical attendant was a Spanish barber, who, 
 
1;-i8 
 
 according to the custom of tlio country, combined also the 
 profession of surgeon. We employe(l liini Id o]i('rate on our 
 cliins, hut dispensed with his nt tendance in liis surgical 
 capacity. After sliaving nic on(> morning, lie ])roduced a 
 case of rusty instruments, and told Vik; lie was going to per- 
 form an operation "mui pelegroso," no less than to take off 
 the arm of a wounded soldier, out at tlu; socket. 
 
 "We heard current reports tliat ^Marshal Soult had defeated 
 the Spanish forces at the Puerto de llannos, had forced that 
 important pass, and waspushing on tolMacentia, threatening our 
 rear. This appeared to us very extraordinary, as we were under 
 the impression thatour victorious army at Talavera was about to 
 push on to Madrid. 
 
 On the morning of the 3rd August, we were not a little 
 3r<i August, surprised on receiving a visit from Andrew Leith 
 1S09. jj-j^y j^j-jj Cj-^ptain Fra, and still more so when Hay 
 
 informed us that the whole army was come back, and that 
 they believed that they were going to give battle to Soult, 
 who, after forcing the pass of Puerto de Pannos, had entcsred 
 Placentia, and captured our military stores and hospital 
 there. 
 
 We remained quiet under the conviction that the army 
 4tu August ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^'^'^ marched on the road to Placentia. 
 i80i». About one o'clock P.Ji,, however, Dr. Macdougal 
 
 came in haste to inform us that all the sick who were able to 
 move were ordered to proceed without delay to the Pridge of 
 Arzobispo. Our paymaster, who had refused to give us any 
 money on account of pay two days before, although it was 
 then some time in arrear, and we were in great want of it, 
 now passed in, and throwing a month's pay into each of our 
 beds, decamped in a hurry. 
 
 We then learned to our dismay that our army, instead of 
 going to fight Soult, had gone off" to their left, and had crossed 
 the Tagus by the Pridge of Arzol)ispo, that the English com- 
 missary was going to leave the town, and the French might 
 be expected to enter it before next morning. It was now 
 high time for us to endeavour to make our escape; not a 
 
150 
 
 moment was to be lost. We sent to our commissary and 
 nlso to the nlealdo, rofiuostini^f to bo sup])Hcfl witli mules. 
 Botli answevod that every aiiiinal liadlioen embargoed for the 
 army, and tliat it was' impossible to afibrd us any assistance. 
 AVe Ijegnn to make up our minds to become prisoners of tlie 
 French, when the Spanisli force under Basscourt, which had 
 been sent in advance on the roail to IMaccntia, began to defile 
 through the town. The Spanisli drummers wore beating to 
 arms, and those inhabitants who did not relish the French 
 were quitting the place in all haste. 
 
 T fortunately observed General Cuesta's coach. I got our 
 landlord to write a note stating that two English ollicers, 
 badly wounded, would feel nnicli obliged to his Excellency if 
 he would issue an order for them to get mules to join the 
 English armv. This was handed into his old lumbering 
 machine of a coach. He immediately sent an aide-de-camp to 
 inform us that orders had been sent to the alcalde to provide 
 us with what we required. The Spanish army continued 
 marching past. It was provoking to observe that the Spanish 
 government had provided plentifully for their own army, 
 while, after having assured Sir Arthur Wellesley of every 
 sort of supplies, they had failed to do so in every particidar, 
 although our commissaries were ready to pay for everything. 
 The near approach of the French caused them to produce 
 stores which they had concealed from us, and most of the 
 Spanish soldiers had some loaves of bread stuck on their 
 bayonets, while others had pieces of bacon. 
 
 After a tedious delay, an old lame mule, the most worth- 
 less animal our good allies could find, was brought to our 
 quarter. There was no time fm- remonstrance. So I prepared 
 to mount the cripple brute, and Stanus his liorse, which had 
 a desperate sore Ijack. Just as we were going to depart, 
 Lieutenant Bagwell of the 87th Begiment arrived from 
 Talaverii, very badly wounded. The ball had entered at his 
 right side, passed round the front of his stomach, under the 
 skin, and coming out again at his left side, passed through his 
 arm close above the elbow joint. On the morning of the 27th 
 
160 
 
 July, when skirmishing on tlie Albercho, as the advanced 
 guard was retiring on the position, Lieutenant Tiagwell 
 observed his Captain, ^laccrengh, knocked over by a musket- 
 shot quite close to him. He caught him in his arms, and in 
 the act of doing so, he received this terrible wound. As the 
 enemy were pressing very closely, ho laid the Captain on his 
 back, and was obliged to retire. The ball had hit the 
 captain's watch, which it broke, and forced into his groin. 
 The French treated him in the kindest manner. His wounds 
 were dressed, ;ind the watch extracted ; and they, seeing that 
 liis wounds were mortal, sent him in next day, with a flag of 
 truce, that he might breathe his last amongst his countrymen, 
 and not amongst strangers. I got Lieutenant r>agwell esta- 
 blished in our billet, and sent off for the surgeon, who sent 
 Anattentivo ^^^^^ word that lie was going to dinner, but would 
 surgeon. attend afterwards. Our amiable nurse, the good 
 nun, provided us with a supply of wine and some excellent 
 bread, with many expressions of kind wishes for our safety. 
 
 "We found ourselves in a wretched plight, owing to the 
 motion of the animals and the hanging of our legs in riding. 
 Our wounds became much irritated and very painful, while 
 the poor hobbling animals were almost done up. After a few 
 miles we fortunately overtook some covered Spanish provision 
 waggons. We offered the driver of one of them a dollar or 
 two to give us a lift, which was accepted. We got on for 
 some miles farther in this way easily enough, but at length 
 the road became so blocked up with artillery, baggage, stores, 
 &c., that the waggon could not proceed. We therefore 
 remounted our Rosinantes, and passed through the Spanish 
 army drawn up in two lines in front of the bridge of Arzobispo. 
 Lieutenant We Continued on and crossed the bridge, then 
 rejoins the tumiug dowu the left bank of the Tagus, we reached 
 
 army at , . i , , > i i ■ i ■ ^ 
 
 oropoza. our bivouac aljout two o clock in the monnng. Our 
 people were just then getting under arms to march off; we, 
 however, secured one of the cars appointed for the wounded, 
 and then stretched ourselves on the ground near a large camp 
 fire. We rested our exhausted frames while our servants 
 
161 
 
 prepared fresh poultices for our wounds, wliicli being dressed, 
 wc continued our route in rear of the army, not in ii triuniplial 
 car, but in a vehicle of the most modest construction. 
 
 We understood that Sir Artliur Wellesley, immediately 
 after our victory at Talavera, had intended to follow up the 
 defeated foe and push his way to Madrid, but that owing to 
 the Spanish government having failed to ail'ord him the 
 requisite supplies which they had promised, he was obliged to 
 dehiy the intended movement. In the interim he received 
 intelligence of Soult's movements from Salamanca, and when 
 the news was contirnu'd that Soult had forced the pass of 
 Puerto de Bannos, and was expected at Placentia, thus 
 threatening his rear, he propf)sed to General Cuesta that he 
 should remain at Talavera to keep the French in check should 
 they attem])t to advance again on that post, and also to cover 
 our hospitals and ])rotect the wounded left there, while he 
 would move back to Oropeza, and give biittle to Soult. To 
 this arrangement Cuesta agreed, and even ordered (fcneral 
 Basscourt's division to march on the 2nd August to Oropeza, 
 preceding the British army, and acting as its advanced guard. 
 
 Sir Arthur Wellesley a])pointed Colonel ]\hu'kinnon to 
 take charge of the sick and wounded in the hospital at 
 Talavera, and on the 2nd August marched with the whole of 
 his force to Orope/a, where he made the necessary dispositions 
 for attacking or receiving Soult, according as ciicumstances 
 might require. During the night he received a o.ii.iiKt ..r 
 despatch from Cuesta announcing various movements ^'""'^^ '• 
 of the French armies, and stating his deternunation to retire 
 from Talavera. And sure enough, before dayl)reak on the 
 morning of the 4th August, Cuesta came in witli his whole 
 army, bag and 1)aggage, thus leaving o\U' rear ex[)ose(l, and all 
 our brave wounded compromisetl. In order to extricate 
 himself from this diiliculty. Sir Arthur Wellesley had no 
 alternative left but to get across the Tagus, so as to place it 
 between him and the enemy, and thus secure his way back to 
 the frontiers of Portugal. 
 
 Not a moment was to be lost. He despatched orders for 
 
 11 
 
1G2 
 
 tliL; I'cLul (tt I'.asscourt's Spuuish division, wliicli had already 
 inovt'd olC ill advance on the road to I'laccnlia, lie then 
 moved oft' to !ii.s left, and aft(n- a inarch of three leaj,'ues he 
 crossed the Tayns at the bridge of Arzobispo. Then he 
 turned to his right, down the left, or southern bank of the 
 river. At a short distance farther the army bivouacked, while 
 the Light Ijrigade under (leneral Crawford was pushed on to 
 gain by forced marches the Uridge of Alniarez, and to support 
 the .S[)anisli trooi)S posted there for its defence. All those of 
 our wounded who could be moved were brought from Tala- 
 vera. 
 
 Thus the perverse obstinacy of a weak-minded man 
 thwarted aW ijic skilful plans of our energetic and e.xperi- 
 c;need commander. As a further proof of this there was a .song 
 current, accounting f(jr our not proceeding to attack the 
 enemy on the 23rd July, after we had marched off for that 
 piir[)()se, as before stated. The reason given was that Cuesta 
 had refusetl to light that day, but on the following day he 
 was full of light when the enemy was gone; that Sir Arthur 
 Wellesley had said thev never had held a council of war but 
 once, and on that occasion there were only three persons 
 present — himself, his Adjutant-Cleneral Sir Charles Stewart, 
 and old Cuesta, and that one of them was a traitor. 
 
 Owing to this untoward turn of aftairs, Soult, iinding no 
 hindrance, got })ossession of I'lacentia without o])i)03ition, 
 and captured our hos])itiils and stores left there. When the 
 commandant. Captain Pattison of the 29th Kegiment, received ' 
 positive intelligence that Soult was about to enter the place, 
 he determined to leave it with all the sick that could be 
 movetl. When about to depart, the staff surgeon who was 
 dcbtiiK'd to remain, and, of course, to fall into the hands of the 
 Frc^nch, having a remarkably fine English horse which he did 
 not wish to share his own fate, recpiested the Captain to take 
 charge of it for him. After the Capttin had got some distance 
 from the town with his convoy, hii began to think that it 
 would be vorv absurd of him to retire without having himself 
 seen the enemy. He therefore, desired the convoy to push 
 
163 
 
 on, while he returned towards Placentia, actin<f with <,M'eat 
 caution; and Ivec'pin;^ a good lookout ahead as he passed 
 through a wood, he at last perceived a cavah'y patrol of the 
 enemy advancing. He instantly wheeled round, and started 
 oil' at speed to get away, but to his great horror, after going a 
 few hundred yards, he found his retreat intercei)ted by a 
 party of French cavalry which had got ahead of him by pass- 
 ing his Hank stealtiiily in tiie wood whih; he was advancing, 
 anxiously intent on reconnoitring the enemy. Kscape was 
 impossible, so he submitted to his fate, and was led back 
 captive, and his friend's horse became a })rize of the enemy. 
 He was ultimately sent to France, and remained a prisoner 
 at Veriluu until the peace in 1814. 
 
 Our route led through a broken hilly country along the 
 left or south bank of the 1'agus, the army ,,,,,1,^ 
 proceeding by forced marches to secure the lloating '""■'''• 
 bridge at Almarez, Sir Arthur Wellesley dreading I hat tlie 
 French might force the passage, in defiance of the Spmush 
 troops stationed to guard it, and, by throwing a cori)S across, 
 intercept his retreat towards the frontiers of I'ortugal. 
 
 I accompanied the army on a vehicle of the most primi- 
 tive construction, being no other than a few ]»lanks oir.sf.n- tuo 
 nauecl on a rutle tramc, with a pole m tront, tO wcmuacii, 
 which oxen were yoked. The frame was placed in two low 
 wheels, each consisting of solid pieces of wood, into which the 
 axle-tree was blocked, so that instead of the wlieid going 
 round the axle-tree, they all went round logethcr, Ihere be.iiig 
 two pieces of wood under the frame on each side scoo})ed out 
 to fit the axle tree. The friction was very great, and occa- 
 sioned a noise when in motion like the drone of the bagpi]ies. 
 On this miserable machine we placed some straw covered 
 with our blankets, and we were then laid upon it, with our 
 small modicum of baugage for pillows. Four sticks were 
 stuck into holes in each corner of the frame, and a blanket 
 iastened on them, to form a canopy to protect us from the 
 scorching sun; and two lean kine with slow and measured 
 steps dragged us along. Such was our equii>age. 
 
1 ('.4 
 
 Tlu! load was extn.'inely bad, ])assiii<r alternately over 
 steep, nii^wod, rocky hei;^lits, or aeros.s ravines and the stony 
 l»eds of (hied-up mountain torrents, so that at times we wore 
 ol>li,i;eil to ^et oCI" and linij) alter them, while the wretched 
 cattle were scrauiblinj^f up such abrupt ascents. Numbers of 
 these frail cars loaded with stores and ammunition broke down. 
 All the horses whether of the cavalry or aitillery which got 
 lame were instantly shot. 
 
 We ])assed through several villages, but not a living being 
 was to be seen. The inhabitants had all tied to the moun- 
 tains. Fntni the slow progress we made with such cattle in 
 such a count r\-, night was fast apiu'oaching. We gave up the 
 idea of reaching the bivouac at I'esetada de (labin, and 
 resolved to lake up our quarters in a smith's shop. For- 
 tunately there was a tire remaining in the forge; we roasted 
 morsels of beef on the point of ramrods, and served them up 
 on a hard biscuit for a ])late. This was the only meal we 
 had that day. We carefully reserved the little bread we had 
 to make poultices of. We then stretched ourselves on some 
 straw in a corner. 
 
 We reconunenced our car march next morning, the Gth 
 •itii August, August, about live o'clock, and proceeded on our 
 "''^'■*" weary way. The road proved, if possi])le, worse 
 
 than what we had already passed. We were stopped on a 
 dreary hill by an oilicer of the 31st IJegiment, who, according 
 to orders from General Hill, had remained there with a 
 butcher or two, with directions to kill some sheep, which 
 were served out to the sick and wounded ready cooked, as 
 they came uj). We had a delicious mutton chop, but the 
 want (if any sort of bread was a great drawback. This was a 
 most kind and humane act of the General. There were many 
 poor fellows who were unable to keep up left destitute on 
 tlie road, (^ne of them. Private Jackson of my company, was 
 walking alongside with his head tied up. I inquired where 
 he was wounded. He produced a tooth stuffed with lead. 
 The ball had entered his left cheek, and passed out at the 
 back of his neck. In passing a village we had feasted our- 
 
165 
 
 selvua with tlii.^ idea ul' bring iiblo to intjiiiii! sdiiu; liifud, but 
 nut a creature was tlioro, not a morsel of food of any kind to 
 bo found. Our only i)ri/i! was a few erund)s in un old basket, 
 wliieii we greedily seized. ()n reaching another villiige wo 
 had the good fortune to lind one of our coin[)anions, Mr. 
 Ogilvio, who very kindly supplied ns with a couple of mules. 
 Wo now got on more briskly. In passing over a high ridge, 
 we observed two large columns of thi; enemy moving in the 
 l>lain on the op])osite side of tiu; Tagus. They seemed to bo 
 on the road from Xoval Moral to Oropeza. We could trace; 
 their route by the glittering of their arms. 
 
 Wo passed through Moza do Ibor, and reached our bivouac 
 in the afternoon. Our surgeon examined our wounds ; tlie 
 dead parts had sloughed off, and the inilammatory symptoms 
 had disappeared, which was a great satisfaction. 
 
 The following day, the 7th August, by means of our 
 mules we passed the army in the march, and reached ~^^^ vn-ust 
 Delito.sa, thinking, as the name denotes, that we '*"''•'• 
 were going into a delightful place ; but disappointment was 
 our lot — it was a scene of woe and misery. l)Oth the Spanish 
 and French armies had passed and repassed this road, and 
 all the places had been ransacked by friend and f(je. We 
 gut into an empty room in a dilapidated house. A little 
 bread and some honey were all that we could procure. There 
 Leing no remedy, we made up a couch of straw blankets as 
 usual, and endeavoured to console ourselves by courting 
 oblivion of our hardships in sleep. Lieutenant I'opham of 
 our regiment, .severely wounded in the leg, and who had 
 made his escape from Talavera, joined us at this place. 
 
 On the morning of the 8th August we received notice 
 that all the wounded and sick were ordered to ^j^^ August, 
 be assembled at a convent about three miles from ^*"'''" 
 Delitosa, and there place themselves under the orders of 
 Colonel Mackinnon. We consequently proceeded cmivuntut 
 in the afternoon to that place. On our arrival, 
 rather late in the evening, we found the greater part of the 
 buildings in ruins, having been partly destroyed by the 
 
166 
 
 Frcncli. All tlio liabiliiblc vooins woro alrondy nrrnpicMl, 
 wliilc llio liiim' clmrcli of tlic rdiivcnt, was lill(>(l to siiflocation 
 with woiukIimI soldiers. Nor ronld wo liml ;my oHicial, civil 
 oi- inilitaiT, to inriniu ii-! wliciv we were to n^o, or what wo 
 W(!r(! to do. We at length t^'ot ])oss{'ssioM of a Hiimll HJdo 
 (;lia|i('l, wliicli was in a iiiiscralilc statu of dila[)i(lation, (;liill, 
 and daiiip. Tluirc wo woio without aiiythiiiif to (>at or to 
 di'ink, not oven straw to rest on, and kcv.]) our ac.liin^t.,' liinl)S 
 from the cold Itari! hrioks. ^\'o madc! the best shifts wo could 
 to su)>|>ly those wants, iind to remedy all inconv(Mii(Mico,s. 
 The lioxwood edi;ii\ifs of tli(> tlower-beds in tlu^ ^'arden of tho 
 nuns, ])luokeil u]" and ]iul head and licatl lo,<,'otlier, serve(l llie 
 purpose of a niattr(>ss. .\ morsel of meat from the com- 
 missary's hntchei', jiut into a camp-kettle lid and fri/zled, with 
 a biscuit the si/(! of a dollar, for eacli, were all wc; coidd procure. 
 r>ut when cooked the ditliculty arose how to Iind it, sinci! it 
 was uow almost ])itcli-dark, and light wo bad nont;. In this 
 dilemma a sergeant of tho (lormiui legion, bearing our com- 
 plaint, most good naturcdly, and very ingeniously, invented a 
 Now kind lanip which was madi; by ])utting a little oil into a 
 "^ '■""•'• small tin, and tluMi tearing a strip off tbe tail of bi.s 
 sbirt, be made a wick of tbe rag. This tomportiry illumination 
 being of course soon extinct, we. wore left in darkness again, 
 ami endeavoured to compose ourselves to .sleep. Vain attempt! 
 Our ears, instead of being saluted, and our minds soothed, witb 
 tbe melodious notes of tlui boly nuns singing their evening 
 bymn in tbe cboir, were stunned witb tbe sbrieks, and our 
 liearts made sad witb tbe lamentations, of tbe brave but unfor- 
 tunate fellows obliged to undergo amputation. Tlie nuns bad 
 tied from their former abode of retirement and peace. How 
 cbanged tbe scone now ! In tbis, tbcir own cboir, was now 
 tbe plac(! wboro all tbe borrors of war were disidayed, 
 as tbe medical oilicers bad made it the surgery where 
 all operations were performed, and they witb many 
 lamps were actively engaged in tbe stern duties of their 
 calling. 
 
 We remained in tbis abode of nn'sery tbe vvbole of tlu; Otb, 
 
1C.7 
 
 wlicii it was aiiiKuniccd that all were t<t Itc ludvcd tci MIvjih, in 
 roit>i,t,'iil. On (lie tulldwiii^' iHoMiiiii,', the KKli, tlu! „„|,,v,ik 
 WDiuidoil and sick lu'iiif^ placod on caiM f)r ninlos, sot '"""■ 
 out for their dostination, hut hy some niischancc no means of 
 transport was jiiitvidcd lor me. This was rathiir awkwni'd. 
 My servant liow(>vor forttmatoly discovoretl a nnih; in u l)fick- 
 yaid, havinf,^ hcen left there in tlie confusion. This made me 
 in(h'i>en(U'nt. Mr. Staims, Mr. roiiluim, and myself deter- 
 nn'ned to kei'j) to,L;(^ther, ami we I'ollowefl llii> ennvoy; hnt 
 owin;^ to the delay occasion((l in my ^etlin,!; an animal, we 
 took a road wliieli varied a little from tlu^ route which they 
 had taken, so we missed Iheni. \\'e therefore resolved to 
 push on and find our way throuj,di tin; country to I''.lvas, the 
 hest way we could. After paswint; (hrouyli (he delilcs at 
 Jaricejo, leadin<;' to the hridi^e of Almarez, on the Taj^us, we 
 turned off to the, lel't in a south-westerly direction, and 
 reacdied 'J'ru.xillo, rather a neat and toleralde sized country 
 town. It is remarkable for some remains of Koman unti- 
 (|uities, and also for I'izzaro's h(ius(> and monument. 
 
 We found the town in a state of great confusion and 
 appreliension, full of detached parties and runaways from the 
 Spanish armies. Accounts had airived that CuesUi, after 
 passing the bridge at Arzobispo, on the (!th August, had left 
 a corps there under the Duke of Albuquer(iiie to defend it 
 against the French, and retired with the remainder of his 
 force to Paraleda de Harben ; that the enemy had on the 8tli 
 August discovered a ford above the bridge, and passed over a 
 body of troops to turn the flank of the Hpaniaids while the 
 bridge was forced in front; that the Spaniards had been 
 surprised, defeated, and lied, abandoning all their artillery. 
 The inhabitants were therefore in great ahirm, thinking that 
 w^e were retiring and that the enemy would shortly follow. 
 The people were very uncivil. We could not succeed in 
 gaining admittance to any house without a billet, and the 
 magistrates were too busy with their own fugitive soldiers to 
 attend to us who had fought and bled for them. 
 
 We were sitting in the pla^a or great square in this for- 
 
loni situation, ooiiHiiltiiiL; what wu liiid best do, when my 
 friciul ('a[)hiin I.aii;,'toii ol" llit- CiiiartcriiiastiT-CfiiUcnirs ckipurt- 
 iiK'iit lia|)|i('ii('tl In coiiii' liy. Ill' iiinst kindly as.snrt'd mo 
 that li(! would ,i;('t us a liilli.'t. AlLcr a cousidtnalth! delay, lio 
 at lun^lli rctniiii'il wiLli one, and inl'oi'nunl nie that it was 
 with no .small dillicnlty that he, had obtained it, l)ecausc on 
 his riMjuirin^f one from llu; .Junta, thi^y seemed to demur, and 
 on his (UimandiuL? one in his eapacity of (i)uiuterniaster- 
 (Jeiieral, they had the audacity to order in the <;uard and 
 wanted to turn him out. lie, however, darod them to do 
 that nt their peril. Tiiey L;av(! way and ohse(iuiously j,'ave 
 A.ivcntm-.^ hlui our l)illet. We immediately proceeded to taku 
 lit Tiuxiiio. poj^mQCjf^i,,!,^ 1ml tills proved a matter of no small 
 diiliculty. Althou^di thi; house ajjpeared toh-rably large; and 
 msat, a. person showcnl us into a small filUiy kitchen. Tins 
 we scttrned to tak(\ and insisted that we sliould .^et a decent 
 room. We made our way ttj one close at hand, but on 
 attemptiu"^' to enter W(! were stoutly opposed by two good- 
 lookinj4 seiioi'as, who, observing' tliat we could only hol)blu 
 ah>n;4, ki'[it us at bay by tlieir Ndciferations and an aninuited 
 war oi' words. We, however, by a vii^orous charge with our 
 ci'utches, at len<,4h succeeded in eriecting' an entrance. Their 
 stormy raviuii; instantly suljsidiul into sullen silen(;e. Hut 
 they were not to l)e defeated. Furious with rage, they seized 
 the bed-clothes I'rom (.)H' tlie IxmI, delei'mined that not one of 
 us sliould make a coiidV)rtid)le lodgment there, and started 
 with them out of tlu; I'oom. Then returning with various 
 domestics, they rai)idly cariied off tlie Iji'dstead, tables, chairs, 
 &c. In sliort, the chamber was strip[)ed of every article, and 
 we were left to our meditations to repose on the cokl bricks. 
 In our disabled situation I'osistance was impossible. Wo 
 submitted to the outrage in contemptuous silence, and with 
 the aid of our pack saddles and blankets, we formed an un- 
 easy sort of couch. We, however, here got bread, chocolate, 
 and some meat to purchase, wliich jjroved great luxuries after 
 the privations we had (uidured for tlu; past week. Our poor 
 wounded, many oj' whom had uudergom; operations on the 
 
1^9 
 
 prec()(liii'4 iliiy, were ubli_mnl tu jeiiiiiiii iu tlio strcuts without 
 iiiiy comt'ui'tH or cover. 
 
 \V(5 wcrt! (li'IiiL^litcil iii'M (liiy, lilt; 1 I til Aumiist, to ijuit our 
 iulioHpitiihUvnuii'tdi's, \[\vv !i joiu'ii<\v ol' ahout llircc nth auk. 
 lt'a;4iicrt over iiii u|H'n cuiiiiiry, we, rciiclicd a Hinall '**""" 
 villaj^i'. \V(> I'oiiiiil the itiliahitanls in ;,'roat consternation. 
 Scarciily had a week ehipstid .since they had returned from 
 the nio»n\taiii.s, where thi'y had lied tVoni dread of the Ki'eneh, 
 when tht\y were now preparing to pack \\[) all their valiial)le3 
 HO as to 1k! ready tor a move, thinkinj,' that as tlioy saw us 
 ^foinj,f towards TortULjal, thev wouUl soon have anotlicv visit 
 from the imi'niy. It was viny afTeetinj,' to witness the distress 
 occasioned hy the invachns in th(! various phices we passed 
 llnoii'^li. We hi'iv Lint iuin a. house, hut liuunl t'cw comforts. 
 No IrmI.s Were lo he had. The people spread out some mats 
 for us. Our cloaks and lihinkets formed all tiio l)e(l furniture. 
 Our Wounds by the continual application of poultices, if not 
 mendin^j;, were at all events kei)t in a healthy state. 
 
 As the weather was excessively warm, wc determined to 
 follow the custom of the ruiiiity, hy setting out Uctimes in tho 
 morning, [o ivpose at the lirst halting place during the heat of 
 the day, and to complete the remainder of our day's journey 
 iu tlif cool uf the evening. Accordingly, next morning, tho 
 i2tli August, we Were on the alert by })eep of day. After 
 j)rocee(.ling some way, we overtook a friend who had passed 
 us on the load, the day of Talavera. On that day he came 
 cantering after us on horseback, in plain clothes, and 
 told us that he was severely wounded, being shot through 
 the arm, that two of his ribs were broken, and with- 
 out further explanation went on, leaving us lost in 
 conjecture who he could be. When we overtook him 
 ixiAY, to our surprise he was tramping on foot at a swinging 
 pace, warbling an Irish tune, accompanied ))y a do.'^en dogs of 
 all descriptions and sizes spurting i'oun<l him, having been 
 attracted by his whistling "View hullo!" On our ex- 
 pressing our wonder that a person who had had his ribs 
 stoved iu should be walking so gaily, he with great naivete 
 
170 
 
 vopliod, "Oh! it wns all u mistake, the l)all duly wcMit through 
 my anil, but it ,L,'avc in(> sncli a conroniidod ia|) on the «i(l(! 
 that 1 thoujiht my ribs were surely hmken". ][o 
 accounted Inr his heini;' on foot hy sayinj^; that he had had a 
 horse hut no saddle, while his iViend had a saddle l)Ut no 
 liorso, so he allowed him his horse; to ])ut tlu^ saddle upon. 
 We thought this a most i^ood-nalurcMl ])ii'Ce of friendship on 
 Ills part. He it ajiiieartul, hiul come out with his friend from 
 Two iiisii li'oland, both with appointments as majors in the 
 uuijxvs. Spanish army, which they had joined only a few 
 days ])rcvious to tin; battle of Talavera, .nd cousecpiontly had 
 not had timi! to furnish tluMuselves with unifoi'iu, but had ])ut 
 tlie distinguishinj^' mark of the I'ank of major in the Spanish 
 service (two strips of silver lace) (Ui the cull's of their blue coats. 
 When the French made their grand attack on our centre, the 
 Spanish n^giment to which they wer(> attached happened to 
 be the one on the left of the Spanish line, and of course the 
 one next tlu; I'ritish right flank, which was the Gist liegiment. 
 When the (uiemy's colunm pressed rapidly on, this Spanish 
 corps, instead of manfully waiting the attack, went to the 
 right-about, and scampered off, leaving our two friends, who 
 gallantly stood their ground. Fortunately, the Spanish regi- 
 ment of cavalry del IJey, ashamed of the conduct of their 
 infantry, immediately dashed forward, and not only filled up 
 the gap left vacant by the dastardly corps, but on the French 
 corps being routed by us, they charged them with great effect. 
 The two majors, disgusted with this sample of their troops,' 
 tore off their sii.or lace, and instantly joined the Gist liegi- 
 ment, each taking a musket, ;ind putting on a cartouch box 
 taken from some of the slain, and they fought most bravely 
 as volunteers until both were severely wounded. We found 
 the major a remarkably good-tempered and very interesting 
 gentleman. 
 
 We reached a neat country town about ten o'clock a.m., 
 and got into a clean house. Here we got for the first time 
 since we had left Oropeza an excellent breakfast of chocolate, 
 eggs, bacon, and fruit. While we were enjoying these luxuries 
 
171 
 
 fi (Inctov of llio rJcrnian T.ogion walked into the room. We 
 offcvcd liiin smiK^ vcfrosliiuoiit, Imt ]u\ lof)kin<,' cnvnestly at 
 tlio ci-ihrnul iiinjov, said, " Ave ytm the schentleinans I 
 afrronted last iiij^ht ?" "Sine, and I am llio self-same man," 
 replied lie ; " and if you have aunht to say to me, here I am." 
 lint the doctor mildly said tliat lie was sorry he had annoyed 
 him. Our friend said there was no offenec at all, at all. 
 "Come, man," he said, "sit down and take something." 
 ]>ut the doetor declined the olfer and retired. The major 
 told us that in the miserable village where he had passed 
 the last night, he had heen so fortunate as to get a billet 
 with a comfortable bed in it, and in which he anticipated 
 the indulgence of a sonnd re])ose. lUit having gone out to 
 forage sonic eatables, he f(nnid on his return that a stranger 
 had taken possession of his snng berth, and was absolutely 
 ensconced in his bed. I'-uf he was not to be done out in this 
 nianniM', so, without further ado or ex[)lanation demanded, ho 
 seize. I the intruder bv the heels and dragged him to the door, 
 where he bundled him out and threw his habiliments after 
 him, neither Icnowing nor caring wlio the individual was. 
 This gentleman, who rejoiced in the name of Hercules "White, 
 and his friend had both been recommended by Sir Arthur 
 Wellesley for commissions on account of their conduct in the 
 action, and the Fird Ga'xtte afterwards announced their ap- 
 pointments as ensigns in the (Ust Ilegiment. 
 
 During the heat of the day we closed the windows, and 
 u[Ktn mattresses laid on tlie brick floor we took a quiet siesta 
 mitil about five o'clock r.M. We tlien proceeded over the 
 same open country for about three leagues to Alvila. The 
 Alcalde, a jolly-looking honest farmer, gave ns excellent 
 billets. We got some capital wine, and passed a most 
 comfortable night. The next day, the 13th August, we 
 reached ]\ferendella, a t(derable village. On the 14th we 
 continued on to Mcrida, situated on the left bank of the 
 Gnadiana, whirli we crossed by the old TJonian bridge. We 
 found it a very neat town. It had f(jrmerly been of some 
 importance. There are, besides the bridge, still some remains 
 
of Iioiimu aiiti([uitius, such as tin; iuiiphillit'ali'u, iuiueduct, 
 and baths. 
 
 Wo started on t]ir follDwiii^ ni(iriiiu;4 at an early hour, 
 i.uh Auh'. breakfasted, ami took our siesta at Lobon, a small 
 country town. We prueeediMl in llic evening to Talavera del 
 Rey, u tolerable town situated on the left bank of the 
 Guadiana, which runs close under tlie sleep acclivity on which 
 the town stands. After a pleasant ride of about three leagues 
 Kith \m' ^" ^^^^ ^^^^^ *-'^' *^'*" morning of tlie JOlli, we came to a 
 ^^^■' view of the foitress of iiadajos, the capital of 
 
 Spanish Estramadura. In ai)proachin_; lladiijos we passed 
 through a succession of cull ivated land, lields of melons, olive- 
 groves, vineyards, gardens, Ov;c. The town is situated on the 
 left bank of the Guadiana, which here runs through a narrow 
 pass, betwixt a height on t)ne side and a range of hills on, the 
 other. 
 
 J]adajos is a place of coiisideralde strength. Its fortifica- 
 tions are very complete, and they seemed t(j be in g(jod r(^pair. 
 The town stands on a slo[)o from the plain to the height on 
 the north, on which stands the castle or citadel, which 
 commands the whole. On the other side of the river, imme- 
 diately opposite the citadel, on the peak of a hill, is Fort St. 
 Christoval, which serves as an outwork on that side. 
 
 ISText day, the 17th August, we passed the biidge over the 
 17th Aug., Guadiana, which runs close under the west side of 
 1809. Ikulajos, and jiroceeded over the plain on our way 
 
 to Elvas. After a ride of six miles we reached the Cayo, a 
 snuill river which here forms the boundary between Spain and 
 Portugal. Eight miles farther brought us to the fortress, 
 which was our destination, a general hosintal being there 
 established for the sick and wounded of the whole army, 
 several convents and other public luiildings being appro[)ri- 
 ated for their reception. 
 
 I was fortunate enough to get a billet in a tolerably 'ood 
 house. The people were very civil, and gave me the upper 
 storey entirely to myself. leaving more room than I required, 
 I accommodated one of the assistant surgeons of our regiment, 
 
1 7:i 
 
 so tliat T had oxcellrnt, moclical attciiilanco at all times. 
 Pnivisions (if all kinds wcvc ])k'iitifal and clu>aji, wines and 
 fruit excelli'ut. 
 
 After all tli(> liardsliips and jirivations wo Jiad endured, 
 tlic quiet repdi^ci of a lixeil residence affordoul us .i^reat relief, 
 although it could (udy he, of a temporary nature. After a 
 time my wound hegan to show symptoms of healing np, but 
 there was still a considerable discharge, so that for nearly a 
 month 1 was eonlined to my quarters. After that I began to 
 hobble about a little on crutches, and to take a drive in a one- 
 horse sort of calash, hung on leather instead of springs, to 
 visit or dine witli my wounded ci>mradcs. 
 
 Elvas is a frontier fortress of great importance, but the 
 nature of the ground on which it is placed ])revents it from 
 being a place of such strength as might be wislied. It stands 
 on the ridgx! (d' a InU rising from south to north. The lower 
 portion of the works are regular and of sullicient strength, 
 having Fort St. Lucia situated on a lower height at a short 
 distance in front, on the road to Uadajos, but on the north the 
 city is commanded by a steep, high hill, separated from it 
 by a deep valley. On this hill stands Fort de Leppe, which 
 commands the city, and, consequently, whoever possesses the 
 fort must ultimately get possession of the city. 
 
 The environs of Elvas are very cliarming, being well 
 cultivated. Many of the orange-groves and gardens are 
 adorned with neat small country houses, which give them 
 a lively a]ipearance. The interior of the i)lace is not so 
 brilliant as nnght be expected. The streets in general are 
 very stee]) and narrow, and liy no means kept particularly 
 clean. The houses for the most ])art are of a second-rate 
 description. All this was [larlicularly striking to one coming 
 from Spain, where the ln)Uscs are of a superior description 
 and of a different style, and the streets always remarkably 
 clean. In the upper part of the town there is a placa, a sort 
 of square, in front of Ihc cathedral. 
 
 AVe had little or no inter'"jurse with the I'ortuguese 
 families; indeed, all the peo[de of any fortune or distinction 
 
174 
 
 had witlulrawn to Lisl)Oii, many of them tlrea(hn,H- tliat in the 
 course of events the place mii^ht stand a chance of beinL? 
 besieged. 
 
 We heard that General Vene^as, wluj liad failed to make 
 a demonstration on Toledo in rear of tlu; French army dnrin" 
 21st All"., ^^^^ battle of Talavera, as had been intended, had 
 i80i). ijyg,^ defeated by Sebastian! on the 21st Angust, at 
 
 Almonacid. Towards the end of Angnst reports began to 
 spread that the French indicated symptoms of threatening 
 Portugal. 
 
 In the beginning of Septemljer, we learned that our army, 
 soptcmbor, ^^^^^' I'^inainiug two weeks in the passes of Jaricejo, 
 1809. where it had taken up a position, on tlie 11th 
 
 August, to guard the passage of the Tagus, at Almarez, had, 
 in conse(|uence of certain nlo^ements made by the French 
 armies, fallen back on the frontiers of I'ortugal. JJuriii"- 
 their sojourn in the wihl mountainous district of Jaricejo, our 
 men suffered much from want of good water and regular 
 supplies of provisions, because the Spanish government had 
 not only failed to procure us all necessary supplies for pay- 
 ment, as had been agreed upon, but, in more instances 
 than one, actually seized what our commissaries had secured 
 for our own army. 
 
 Sir Arthur Wellesley, now created Lord "Wellington, 
 ., , „ . established his headcuuirters at IJadajos, on the 3rd 
 
 .(I'd aGJ)t., ■*• •' ' 
 
 Arti'mr*'" September, which was also garrisoned by a strong 
 Slou.s.-*'' I'^nglish force. An advanced guartl was left at 
 the ih"gii4 Merida, and troops at Lobon and Talavera del Key, 
 miny. ^.j^^, intermediate towns between it and Uadajos. 
 
 General Hill's division was cantoned on the right bank of the 
 Guadiana, in various villages, such iis Montijo, Piiebula, &c., 
 and on the extensiv^e plain ; while another division was 
 stationed on the left bank, dispersed in various cantonments, 
 such as Olivenzes, Albuera, Santa jMartha, &c., on the south- 
 eastern road to Seville. The remaining divisions were moved 
 over the frontier into Portugal and jxi'^ted al ('am[io Mayoi', 
 I'ortalegre, CasLello de Vide, &.(:., on the uorLheiii road leading 
 
1 
 
 ro 
 
 to Ciistollij IJi'iincu, Almeida, and Ciudad JJodrit^o. V>y this 
 admirable arraiii^emeiit every appruaeh to Uadajos from the 
 south, east, or uorlh was protected, while at the same time 
 the heads of uur columns pointed e(|ually in all dii'eetioiis, 
 ready to press forward on any, as occasion or circumstances 
 might re<[uire, or all the; forces could he easily concoutrated if 
 requisite. 
 
 The troops cantoned on tlie low plain bordering cither 
 bank of the Guadiana began early in October to sickno.s.sii. 
 get very sickly, some being attacked with typhus c'unir' 
 fever, others with bilious fever, and many with fever 
 and ague, which occasioned a great mortality. The hospitals 
 at Elvas became crowded to a serious extent from the numbers 
 sent in from the out-quarters. These diseases ap])ear to have 
 originated from a condjination of causes. In the first place, 
 the men had been constantly in the field Ibr upwards of live 
 months, during the various o[)eratious of the campaign of 
 Oporto and Talavera, during the whole of which period they 
 had almost never a night or two in quarters. The excitement 
 which kept them up during these daring enterprises was now 
 gone. Tiiey W(ue crowded into small rooms in small houses, 
 with onl}' their blankets and bare bricks or clay floors to lie 
 upon. In the second place, the wet season had commenced, 
 which prevented outdoor exercise or field movements; and 
 lastly, the damp and chilling mists which prevail at that 
 period along the borders of the river. What was most to be 
 deplored was that the finest and most robust men were in 
 general the first who fell victims to these scourges. Our 
 hrave fellows died in such numbers that the contingent 
 allowances made to captains of companies for all purposes 
 could not cover the expense of coflins, so it was ordered that 
 the men should be interred in their blankets only. ]>ut their 
 comrades who were still in health, with a commendable fine 
 sense of feeling, begged to be allowed to subscribe the amount 
 necessary to procure collins for their unfortunate brothers-in- 
 arms. 
 
 During the whole month of October, the vast number of 
 
17<'. 
 
 fever patients sent in iVoni tin* army to Klvas, and tlie want 
 of snilicient acconiniodatinn, yirevcnted tlicni from heiiij,' ke]it 
 separate from tlie ntlier sick mid wounded. The conta^don 
 unfortunately spread to these also, and many who had 
 narrowly escaped the effects of lion(mral)l(i wounds fell under 
 the ravages of disease. 
 
 While at l)adajos, the Conunander-in-(*liief, T.ord Welling- 
 ton, paid a high compliment to the 20th Kegiment. It had suf- 
 fered great loss at th(! hatth; of Talavera, and Lord Wellington, 
 in a letter to Lord Castlereagh, 12th September, l.S(»9, says : — 
 
 " I wish very much that sonu; measures could be adopted 
 to get some recruits for the 2i)th liegiment. 
 
 "It is the best regiment in tliis army, and liiis an admir- 
 able internal system and excellent non-commissioned ollicers." 
 
 My wound was now (piite healed up, but a general stiff- 
 ness of the limb remained, accompanied at times with con- 
 siderable pain, owing no doul)t to some of the tendons having 
 been injured, or the ball, which still remained in, ])ressing on 
 some tender part. I however determined to rejoin my regi- 
 ment, and accordingly on the oth Xoveniber I proeeeded to 
 Badajos. I g(jt a billet in a handsome liousc, and found the 
 lady of the mansion equally so, being a very interesting 
 pretty young woman. She received me most graciously, 
 showed nu^ to a connuodious apartment, and assured me that 
 her husband would be lia])py to have me in his house. On 
 my inquiring what her luisband was, she replied that he was 
 a coloncVo rcforniada — a colonel on the retired list. On my 
 expressing surprise that one so young as she was should be the 
 wife of an old veteran, as I supposed her husband to be, she 
 with great naivete replied, " Ho is a retii'ed colonel, to be 
 sure, but he is very robust, ;nid very loving, still ". He 
 proved rather a gruff pers(ui, nearer sixty than lifty. They 
 very kindly cooked my dinner lor me, making several savoury 
 additions to my ration beef, anil they sent me fruit and wine. 
 Next morning they provided me with an excellent breakfast, 
 and urged me to pass another day in their house, but duty 
 called me to go on. 
 
177 
 
 I proceeded next day, the Gtli Noveiubci', through Talu- 
 vera del lley, crossed the (iiuidiaiia by a t'urd, and oth N„vvm- 
 reached the head(iuarters of my reL;iniunt at I'uebuha '"''• ***"'•'• 
 de la Caloada in the afternoon. This was a large agricultnral 
 village. The houses, like most otliers in these places, were con- 
 structed of mud, beat hard in frames, afterwards wiiitewashed, 
 and roofed with tiles. They in general consisted of only 
 one storey, with attics above. The inhabitants were chieily 
 farmers and their servants, shepherds, &c. Large tracts of 
 wheat land and other grain, with ticlds of melons, surrounded 
 the village for miles. Jieyond that, on the wide plains, were 
 ilocivs of merinoes, with their numerous sliepherds and largo 
 dogs. 
 
 Here was the iirst place where I observed the method 
 they have in the south of Spain of preserving their sui.tcr- 
 gram m pits. In the vicniity ol each- village a gnuiurio«. 
 place is allotted for this purpose, 'Jlie pits are constructed 
 in the following manner : — A wide ])it is sunk in tiie earth, 
 about fifteen feet deep. Tlie bottom is then laid with thigs ; on 
 this they build a circular wall of brieks about twelve feet in 
 diameter and eight feet high, over M'hich they tlirow an arched 
 dome, leaving an aperture in the top, idjout three feet wide, 
 which is continued up two or three feet more, like a chimney, 
 so that the pit is shaped like a bottle with a neck. This neck 
 does not rise to within two feet of the surface or level of the 
 surrounding ground. Perliaps almndi'eil of tliese arc made in 
 rows in a square portion of land, forming, as it were, a honuy- 
 coinb. Each farmer has one or two, or more, aceording to 
 the size of his farm. When the grain is threshed out in the 
 plain, it is carried in and [)our(.;d into these subterranean 
 granaries. Large slabs are placed on the mouths of each, and 
 the eartli is thrown over them, so that potatoes and other 
 vegetables can be phnted in the ground, and the hidden 
 grain secured from the rapacious hand of the invader. This 
 is one of the many Moorish customs still prevailing. 
 
 About tlie end of Xovember the people appeared much 
 cast down. They informed me that bad news had arrived, 
 
 12 
 
178 
 
 tlmt the Marquess of Av(ji/ii<,'a, who had been appointed to 
 the comniand alter Venegas, of the anuy of La I\Iaiicha, had 
 liithNov ^'^^''1 defeated on the lOtli Nov(;niber, at OcaFia. 
 1800. rj.jijj^ defeat they felt the more because the ^lanjuess 
 
 by ])revi()us boasting had led them tu expect that he would 
 drive the French from ]\Iadrid. "We aflerM'ards learned that 
 he was a young olllcer without any experience, or capacity 
 for a commander. He was vain enough to suppose that 
 because he had a numerical force of 00,000 men, he could 
 defeat the well-disciplined veteran troops of France, and 
 expel them from the capital. With this view he left his strong 
 positi(ju in the Sierra Morena, and advanced in the direction 
 of IMadrid. The Spanish army was attacked at Ocafia on the 
 19th November by King Joseph. The Spanish im'antry 
 fought gallantly, but the whole of the cavalry gave way, 
 creating great disorder in the infantry reserve in the rear, 
 wdiile those who stood their ground in front, being over- 
 powered, the whole Ihid m the utmost confusion, pursued by 
 the French cavalry, who in the disorder f(jund little or no 
 resistance, and saljred the fugitives without mercy. It is said 
 that upwai'ds of uOOO were slain, i;),000 taken prisoners, 
 and all the artillery and baggage captured. This sanguinary 
 battle proved a deadly blow to the Spanish armies, and a 
 sad disaster to the Spanish cause, as it laid open the whole 
 of the south of Spain to the invader. 
 
 Misfortunes never come alone. The news likewise reached 
 us that the Duke del Parque had also been defeated by 
 Kellerman, at Alba do Formes, on the 17th and 18th 
 November. 
 
 In our camp the officers of each company formed a mess, 
 and we lived very comfortably, provisions of all kinds, and 
 wine, being plentiful. We frequently interchanged dinner 
 parties, with a card club in the evening. Sometimes we had 
 horse-races, and frequently coursing matches, this place being 
 celebrated for its breed of greyhounds. The (Jueen of Spain, 
 who was very fond of the sport, used to get all her greyhounds 
 from Fuebula. 
 
179 
 
 The fever contiuucd tu rage, iiotwiLlistaiuliiij,' that the 
 wciithov was becoming more sotthxl and cokl. Captain New- 
 bold, of our cor])S, was carried dii" id'ter a few days' illness, and 
 shortly afterwards, in tlie beginning of J)ecendjer, I was 
 seized with it myself — a most malignant attack of bilious 
 fever ; but however ill I might be, I had great coniidence hi 
 my medical adviser, the clever and experienced Dr. Guthrie. 
 
 Early in December it was reported that the French, 
 having defeated the Spanish armies in various parts, 5,„vi,,neiiiH 
 and particularly the Duke del Panpie at Alba do ;;[4Su'''' 
 Formes, were now collecting a large force at Sala- *^'"""- 
 manca, seeming to threaten the northern frontier of Portugal, 
 by Ciudad IJodrigo. This news appeared corroborated, because 
 on the 10th December an order arrived for all the i,,^,, ^^c _ 
 sick to be removed with as little delay as possible to ^*^"'^' 
 Elvas, in I'ortugal, and for all the troops to march in that 
 direction on the 14th, We further heard that our whole 
 army was destined to proceed to the north of IVjrtugal, and 
 that the troops at I'ortalegre, Campo Mayor, &c., in that 
 country had already marched. 
 
 On tliC 14th December, my friend the doctor told me 
 candidly that he did not consider that I was in a fit state to 
 be moved, being still subject to attacks of fever, and labouring 
 under great debility. He left it to my own choice, either to 
 endeavour to proceed, or to remain amongst strangers without 
 a chance of medical assistance. 1 determined if j)ossilde to 
 get out of the place, which held out no other jirospect than a 
 grave. I had continual hiccup, and nothing would remain on 
 my stomach. 
 
 Next morning, tlie loth December, I was carried from 
 my bed wrapped up in blankets, and idaced on a 1:1th ooc, 
 
 *■ ■*■ ■*- ISO'* 
 
 car with two privates ill of the same maladies, nino'saof 
 wliiie my servant mounted my horse, and rode by lcsUc. ' 
 the side. In this uncouth conveyance we jogged on at a slow 
 rate, and suffered much from the jolting, owing to the 
 many ruts in the track across the plain. In fording the 
 Guadiana I heard the men calling for water. I desired my 
 
180 
 
 Scrvnnt to givo mo some also. Hu al lirst liositati'd, but on 
 my iiifsistiiii;' lio ,u;iivu iiiu a tin full. I took a clrau<,'lit, and to 
 my joyful sui'itiise it remiiincd witlujut any symptoms of 
 vomitin^f, as had liithcrto been tlic case. 
 
 On iiniviny iit 'ralaverilhi 1 was put into bcul, Init 1 
 was unable to take any nourishment. I observed a row 
 of jarros placed alouj^' one .side of the room. These are 
 pitchers mad(; of porous clay. When lillcd with water it 
 oo/es throujfh the pores, and damps the outside of the 
 vessel ; ('\a])oration then takes ])lace, which cools the 
 contents, and the warmer the weather, and the greater the 
 di'aft of air, the cooler the water becomes. During the night, 
 finding myself feverish and parched with thirst, I called my 
 servant, and got a glass of this water, I .shortly afterwards 
 fell asleej), and diil not waken for some hours. I repeated 
 the dose of water and felt nnich refreshed, and was able to 
 take a little sago for breakfast. IJeing again placed on the 
 car, we reached liadajos in the afternoon of the 1-ith ; but this 
 was no triumphal entry, no cavalcade with the glitter of arms 
 and nodding plumes. I was left stretched in my bumble 
 vehicle, exposed in the public S(|uare to the gaze of the idle 
 crowd until a billet was procured. My dilUculties did not 
 end here, for on being dragged to the door of the destined 
 abode, the proud si)anish Don of a landlord scorned to admit 
 a stranger coming in such a guise into his mansion. He 
 ilatly refused to give me admission. I was in no state to 
 stand up lor my right, so I despatched my servant to get 
 another billet, which, although of a humbler description than 
 the foruKu- one, the owner was of a more charitable disposi- 
 tion, and showed me every attention my situation required. 
 
 The change of air and scene worked a wonderful change 
 in my complaint. I got a good night's rest, and felt so much 
 better next day, the loth, that I was able to mount my horse 
 and to proceed to Elvas. 
 
 In consequence of the English army leaving this part of 
 the frontier, it became necessary to increase the I'ortuguese 
 garrison of Elvas. To make rooui for these, all our conva- 
 
Icsccuts, who wpi'i! iihli! to niovt', were ovdcrcd to pvococtl lo 
 Ksliviiios, six l(';t,mu>.s Imck on tln> ro.'id to Lisbon. At"t(>r 
 iviiiaiiiiug a week uL Mlvas, I round uiysrlfso tniu^li ii'covorod 
 that I obtiiiuctl leavo to <,'o thither, when- I was aware that 
 some of my brother oflicurs were. I si't out on Hk? ji^tuce. 
 2 1st, and reached Kstrenios the same diiy. This i,s '*"'■'• 
 a tolerably largo town, once of some inn)orta!ice, but having 
 now the a}»i)earanee of tlceay. It is encompassed willi a wall 
 and ditch, both in a stale of great dilapidation. The 
 environs however are very pretty, and the surrounding 
 country well cultivated. Wo formed a .small mess, and 1 
 passed a merrier Christmas than I had done for the two 
 preceding years. 
 
 The inhabitants told us that the strong fortress of Gerona, 
 after a most gallant defence iVom July, had surrendered on 
 the 10th JJecember, 1809. 
 
 My health being now re-established, f determined on re- 
 ioining my regiment, and T.ieutenant Duguid, also 
 of the 29th Ifeuimcnt, proposed to accompany me. iin.i ivji.iii« 
 
 1.1 til roKiiucnl. 
 
 But where to hnd it was the dilhcnlty. Ail we 
 knew was that our army had marched to the north. We 
 resolved to follow the same route in the hope of overtaking it. 
 We sot out on the 29th December, and reached Ervidal, a 
 small village, the first night, and Ponte do Sor the n.^,, ],^,,.^ 
 following one. The weather was splendid — a clear ^'*"''*' 
 cloudless sky, with genial warm sun. The c(mntry was rather 
 flat, with low undulating heights, in general rather barren, and 
 covered with green cestos, and only partially cultivated on the 
 borders of the streamlets. On the 31st December, we arrived 
 at Abrantes, where, to our great satisfaction, we found our 
 regiment. We learned that while the army under Lord 
 Wellington had proceeded to the north, General 
 Hill had been left to watch the Tagus, and the. mu's 
 
 division. 
 
 provnice of Alentejo, with a corps durmec con- 
 sisting of the second division, composed of three brigades of 
 infantry, two brigades of artillery, and a due proportion of 
 cavalry, also a division of Portuguese, under Major-General 
 
182 
 
 Sir John Haiuiltoii. The following is a detail of the second 
 division, under General Sir Rowland Hill:— 
 
 The first brigade consisted of tlic ;kd DniYs, the second 
 battalion of the 48th, the GGth, and the 31st Ilegiments 
 under tlie Honourable Sir William Stewart. 
 
 The second brigade consisted of the 28th, 39th, and 34th 
 Eegirnents, under Sir William Lumley. 
 
 The third brigade consisted of the 29th, 57th, first 
 battalion of the 48tli Piegiment, under Major-General 
 Houghton. 
 
 Also three companies of the iifth battalion of the GOth 
 Rifles, two brigades of artillery, and some cavalry. 
 
 The Portuguese division, under Sir John Hamilton, 
 consisted of two brigades of infantry, a brigade of artillery, 
 and a force of cavalry. 
 
PAET III.-1810-11. 
 
 Lord Welunoton, having received reinforcements ironi 
 Entjland, made a fresh distribution of the armv, which was 
 now divided into seven divisions, and also a division of light 
 troops. 
 
 The Portuguese army having been reorganised, under 
 Marshal Heresford, some of the best disciplined regiments 
 were incorporated in various English brigades, and the others 
 were formed into divisions and brigades under English 
 otftcers. 
 
 The English army occupied a position in rear of Almeida, 
 and the light division was pushed on to the Spanish frontier 
 towards Ciudad Eodrigo. 
 
 After remaining a few days at Abrantes, our brigade, 
 under Major-CJeneral Houghton, marched on the 5th Qth Jan., 
 January, 1810, to Punhete, two leagues on the road ^^^"' 
 to Lisbon. Punhete is a remarkably neat country town, 
 situated on a high tongue of land at the junction of the 
 Zezere witli the Tagus. This was a very pleasant quarter. 
 We had little or nothing to do. The weather was splendidly 
 fine, bright sunshine. Our great lounge was on the bridge of 
 boats over the Zezere, where we used to watch the fishermen 
 hauling their nets to catch savey, an excellent fish of tlie 
 salmon kind and flavour, except that the tlesh was nearly 
 white. Supplies of all kinds, and even luxuries, were to be 
 had here, as boats were daily arriving from Lisbon. But the 
 difficulty was to get money to purchase them ; of that com- 
 modity we had little or none. Our pay, instead of scarcity 
 
 1 . . 1 1-1 •111 °f iiioiicy 
 
 bemg paid a montli m advance, as is usually tlie case, mid credit. 
 was now nearly three months in arrear, and it was only by 
 borrowing from richer friends that we could get any. Very 
 
1S4 
 
 few could afrovd tlio serious loss attending .uottinc^ cash for a 
 l)ill on ICngLiiid, boenuse tlie ])nyinn!^tors and roniniissaries, 
 instead of paying; llio dollars at four sliillin^^s and Iwojionce, 
 their current value, cliarLjed tliein from five sliillings to seven 
 sliillings and sixpence, and we, althoutfli lighting, bleeding, 
 and starving for our country, were subjected to a deduction of 
 ten per cent, income-tax, stopped out of onr pay. This 
 seemed too bad. Indeed, at this period of the war, English 
 credit suffered much all over the Peninsula, owing to the 
 want of proper arran';ement in the departments of the 
 Commissary-General and T'aymastcr-Oeneral. For instance, 
 I have been told, a contractor went out to a village and 
 bargained with the farmers for cattle. When they were 
 brought in, the Commissary, instead of paying cash down for 
 them, as was expected, gave each owner an order on the Pay- 
 master-General, who in his turn gave them a bill payal)le in 
 Lisbon ! A good bill, it is true, but of no value to the holders. 
 They could not go two or three hundred miles to Lisbon, and 
 theie were no banks in any of the villages or towns to trans- 
 act business. The poor men took the pieces of paper, first 
 looked at one side of it, and then at the other, but could not 
 fathom how tliis was to give them hard dollars for their cattle. 
 They would then proceed to the Vhxca and get some wise 
 head in the market to read the document for them, but this 
 made them no better off No one would give them one 
 maravedi for their bills, so in despair they returned to the 
 commissary and asked what he would give them for the bills. 
 It was said instances were not wanting where certain com- 
 missaries of the lower grades got such bills at a large deduction. 
 They got the dollars for them at Lisbon, with which they 
 accommodated those who wished to draw bills on En"land 
 at the high rates above specified. This glaring oppression on 
 the inhabitants, so injurious to British honour, was soon after- 
 wards remedied by pay ofliees Ijeing established in the 
 various different provincial towns, where the owners of the 
 bills had only to apply to get their money. 
 
 While here, my friend, Andrew Leith Hay, and I lived 
 
185 
 
 together. Onv last dollar was expcndod ; our only resource 
 seemed to mo t(» apply to a Rnviiifj ooinjtatriot, wlio, I knew, 
 liad alwavH a vcscivc fiin<I. To liini I went. On stating my 
 distress, and rcipicsting a loan, his rt!])ly was, "Ouid faith, 
 I've no a penny, T was just coming niysel' to borrow frao 
 you ". This source failed nie. T told Hay that we must go 
 on short connnons, that ration beef and biscuit must be our 
 future fare. He said, "Let nie try my luck". Out he went, 
 and on his return, rattling money in his pocket, he tuo knight 
 threw a handful of dollars on the table, saying, andsHuay 
 "Now let us have a blow-out". On my inquiring """'^' 
 from what friend he could have extracted so much treasure, 
 he replied, " Never mind now, T will tell you after dinner". 
 On my repealing my inquiry while discussing a good bottle 
 of wine, he said, '' Why, from Sandy Young, to be sure". I 
 felt thoroiigjdy convinced that Jiiy friend's power of persua- 
 sion and skill in raising the wind was far superior to my own. 
 Having some friends in the 10th i'ortuguese reginjent 
 quartered at Tiiomar, onlv three leajfues off, we went lotu Jan., 
 
 , ; . , ^ , , -r I810.-Hall 
 
 over to pay tliem a visit on tlie lOtli January. utTiiomar. 
 
 . A lady of 
 
 They, with some of the wealthiest native officers of uiuioubtiui 
 
 unto- 
 
 the corps, had lormed a toloral)ly good mess. After cedents. 
 an agreeable dinner, it was proposed that we should attend 
 
 the soiree of the Marquess and Jlarchiouess of A . To 
 
 our surprise, we ol)served there a great stout fresh-coloured 
 Englishwoman, divssed in a riding habit, and sitting between 
 two young and handsome daughters of the hostess. Colonel 
 Oliver immediately said to us, " This is too bad ; do not speak 
 to her ". We cut our visit as short as decency would permit. 
 It then appeared that this madam was a trooper's wife, and 
 that an English commissary then attached to the Portuguese 
 army, and stationed at I'homar, a natural son of the notorious 
 Lord (Jeorge Gordon, had not only taken tliis soldier's trull 
 under his protection, but had the impudence to introduce 
 her to this and oth(>r noble families, and thus bring disgrace 
 on the British character. The Colonel went next morning, 
 and communicated to the Marquess the whole circumstances, 
 
186 
 
 and begged to express liow luucli the English officers felt 
 the disgrace that a countryman should have been guilty of 
 such conduct. The Marquis was struck with horror, and 
 clasping his hands, exclaimed, " Jesus ! una puta in niia casa ! " 
 She was immediately bundled out. 
 
 Thomar is a thriving handsome town, situated in a valley, 
 near a river, on which are some manufactories of cotton and 
 cloth. On a steep bank, innnediately in rear of tlie towu, 
 stands tiie noble Convento de Christo. The churcli is very 
 magnificent. The canons' seats, the i)ulpit .and the choir, are 
 splendid specimens of carved work, both in oak and Brazilian 
 wood. The walls are adorned with many pictures by the 
 ancient masters. The* organ is remarka\)ly line. They 
 showed us a barrel or pipe standing detached, but which, 
 when attached to the instrument, had such a powerful effect, 
 that it shook the whole of the massive building. It appeared 
 some twenty or thirty feet high, and about a foot and a half 
 in diameter. 
 
 The French, in consequence of their various victories over 
 
 Progress of ^^^^ Spanish armies, were now mastcis of all the 
 thcjrcnch. gQ^^ti^ Qf gpj^ij^ c^Q^II-^ ^yjj^l^ oO.OOO men, forced the 
 
 threaten"'^ passcs of the Sicrra Moi-ena in the end of January, 
 Cadiz. g^j^j pushing on with the utmost celerity, by Baylen, 
 
 Cordova &c., ho appeared before Seville, which surrendered 
 4tQFob., on the 4th February, and King Joseph entered it 
 ^^^^' on the same day. This was a sad disaster for the 
 
 Spanish cause, and it proved of inunense advantage to the 
 enemy, as it gave them possession of the very place where the 
 seat of the chief government was established, and of the great 
 national foundry of cannon. The supreme Junta of govern- 
 ment fled to Cadiz, but several of its members submitted to 
 Joseph, and st ong suspicions were entertained that others 
 were more inclined to favour the French from interested 
 motives, than to support the cause of their country. 
 
 Cadiz now became of the greatest importfiuce, not only 
 as being the seat of government, but as being the great 
 naval station, the emporium of the Spanish trade, and the 
 
187 
 
 port whore all supplies of bullion from South America cOuld 
 most safely arrive. The French, fully sensible of the great 
 acquisition this iiu]>ortant ]>lace would he to them, pressed 
 on a force to seize the prize, which seemed almost within 
 their grasp; but the Duke del Albuquerque, a true patriot, 
 although he had received orders hvin the Junta to proceed in 
 another direction, foreseeing the danger which threatened 
 Cadiz, most prudently determined to save this last stronghold. 
 He hastened towards it l>y forced marches, with a body of 
 12,000 men, and so closely pursued by the enemy that as he 
 passed over the drawbridges on the 3rd February, to enter 
 the advanced posts at the Tsla de Leon, the French troops 
 appeared on the heights overlooking the city, and in three 
 days the jilacc was closely blockaded by a strong French 
 force. The garrison was reinforced by an English and Portu- 
 guese force under General 8ir Tiionias Graham. 
 
 AVhile Soult had moved on Cadiz, General liegnier, witli a 
 co'i^ys d'armee, advanced into vSpanish Estramadura, thus 
 threatening Badajos and our lino of operations on the Tagus. 
 To counteract this movement. General Hill was ordered to 
 move to Portalegre, so as to protect the province of Alentejo, 
 and also to support Elvas and Badajos should they be 
 attacked. 
 
 We left Punhete on the 15th February for Abrantes. 
 Next day we reached Gavion, and on the day following 
 Gaffete, both miserable country towns situated in a dreary 
 district, generally covered with green cestos. On the 18th 
 February we entered Portalegre. Hero General Hill estab- 
 lished his headquarters, and the whole of the infantry and 
 artillery were quartered in the town. The cavalry were 
 posted in advance, in the direction of Badajos and Elvas. 
 The Portuguese division was cantoned in Crato, Castello de 
 Vide, and other adjacent villages. 
 
 In taking possession ol' my l)illet, a ludicrous circumstance 
 occurred. When troops were placed in cantonments, Advonturo 
 the usual mode of taking up quarters was for the PortiUegrc. 
 quartermasters of the several corps to proceed in advance to 
 
188 
 
 the town, wlioro an officer of the f{uartermastov-gencral's 
 department, having divided the place into districts according 
 to the different brigades, gave over to each quartermaster 
 certain streets far liis corps. Tlie quartermaster then selected 
 the best houses for the coinnianding and other field officers, 
 marking the same with chalk ; then the next best for the 
 captains, and so on. Those for the men had the number they 
 were destined to contain also written in chalk on the door. 
 When my billet was pointed out to me, I observed marked 
 on the doorway, which was closed, " One officer and two 
 soldiers ". The soldiers were as servants. I knocked re- 
 peatedly, but no notice was taken or answer given to my 
 demand for admission. After waiting some time, I imagined 
 that the proprietor had gone off. As military men are not 
 very ceremonious after a fatiguing march, I gave orders for 
 the soldiers to force tlie door. Just as they were about to do 
 this, I heard a female voice in the inside say: " Spera, spera, 
 senhor. — Wait, wait, sir ! What do you want?" I of course 
 replied that I had got a billet on the house, and was entitled 
 to immediate admittance. She began to use all sorts of per- 
 suasive arguments to induce me to believe that the house was 
 not fit for the reception of an English oflicer; but these 
 making no impression, and I, getting impatient, again directed 
 the men to force the door; when, to my great surprise, a gruff 
 voice called out, " Hell to your sowl ! What is it ye want 
 here ? Don't spake to me in aney of your gibberish of Portu- 
 guese." It required no wizard to find out that the obstreperous 
 host was a native of the Emerald Isle. So I said : " Good 
 Mr. Pat, no more blarney ! If you are not content to take 
 me and my two servants in, I shall take possession of a 
 neighbouring house where there are twenty-five men, and will 
 transfer the whole of them to yours." This threat had the 
 desired effect. The gateway was unbarred. I entered in 
 triumph, brushing past a little, sharp-countenanced man, 
 looking timid and scared, as if the blue devils had got posses- 
 sion of him. A capital quarter I found it, the rooms being 
 fitted up with many English comforts. There was also a 
 
189 
 
 tolerable collection of English books, which fornied a source 
 of amusement. 
 
 My conjcctui'c proved correct. The })ati'on dc casa was a 
 native of Ireland, who gloried in the patronymic of Pat 
 Maloney. He was u numufacturer of cloth and a dyer by 
 profession, which accounted for the diabolical colour of his 
 visage at my first interview witli him. This place is remark- 
 able for its woollen fabrics, conducted principally by Germans 
 and Irish, A great portion of the blue cloth used as uniform 
 for the Portuguese army is made here. Our host had also a 
 countrynmn as an assistant, who, he told me, had been con- 
 demned and was about to be hanged on the bridge at Wexford, 
 when he was pardoned on account of his youth, on condition 
 of his expatriating himself to a foreign land. His crime was 
 having printed or engraved some manifesto of the rebels in 
 1798, he being then an apprentice to an engraver. 
 
 The situation of Portalegre, as the name denotes, is very 
 charming, and the surrounding scenery very romantic. It 
 stands on a spur of a high ridge of liills, which divides 
 Portugal from Spain. The principal part of the town is on 
 the hill, which overlooks an extensive plain stretching to the 
 west and south, richly cultivated with olive-groves, vineyards, 
 &c., bounded by a range of steep hills which give it a grand 
 amphitheatre appearance. The view of the town from the 
 plain is particularly striking. The large churches, their 
 numerous spires, the other public buildings, and in the back- 
 ground the several convents in picturesque situations on the 
 wooded hills above the city, have a magnificent eifect. As a 
 military position, at this particular period, it was of some im- 
 portance, to render efl'ectual the defence of the Alentejo. It 
 gave us the command of the road from Badajos to Lisbon, 
 while, by an easy communication with the Tagus, we could 
 draw all our supplies from tlie latter without any risk ; and, 
 being a central point, our corps was at all times ready either 
 to move south to protect Badajos, or to proceed to the north, as 
 circumstances and events might require. Indeed, the mere 
 fact of our having occupied Portalegre had the desired effect. 
 
190 
 
 Tho euomy, on loarniiii; ouv arrival tliore, itnincdiatcly with- 
 drew soino leagues back from Piadajos. 
 
 The garrison consi.sled oCton regiments of Knglisli infantry, 
 inKarrison two brigudcs of artillery, and a few squadrons of 
 I'oitnicKio. cavalry. Our sources of amusenumt were very 
 limited, and we had but little intercourse with the inliabitants> 
 as the principal inhabitants had I'ctired with their families to 
 Lisbon, arid many of the young ladies took refuge as boarders 
 in convents, as places of security in these wretched 
 times. 
 
 The rainy season had now set in, the weather being chill 
 and damp, and as there were no fireplaces in any of the 
 rooms in Portugal, they were very unpleasant abodes at this 
 season, however well adapted they might be for the usual 
 genial climate. The only comfortable places were the 
 kitchens. We accordingly, as soon as dinner was over, used 
 to adjourn there, and in front of a blazing fire, sip our wine, 
 roast our chestnuts, and crack nuts and jolces together. The 
 landlord of the billet, where our small mess held their merry 
 meetings, was a blind poet, who had many nourishing names. 
 He styled himself Don Francesco Picanzo Cabrae de Souza 
 Tavaorez. This genius used to squat himself on a low chair 
 in a corner inside liis large kitchen chimney, which, as usual, 
 extended almost from one side of the place to the other, and 
 there spout verses for our edification. During this wet 
 season the light wines of this part of the country afforded 
 little comfort to the inward man. To remedy this we used to 
 put a certain quantity into a pancello or earthen jar, and heat 
 it on the fire, with all sorts of spices, and then, beating up the 
 yolks of eggs, make a capital flip. On presenting our friend 
 with a glass of this, he gave us a specimen of his composition, 
 proposing a toast — 
 
 Efito vinlio es oxcelloule, 
 Esto Copo es e priuiero, 
 Viva e principal Rot^'cute, 
 Et tanibcii tieurge Feriero. 
 
 We occasionally visited a convent of nuud, which was 
 
191 
 
 prettily situated at a short distance from tlic town. Here many 
 young ladies were hawj, educated, and others had convoutut 
 taken refuge to be out ol' liann's way, dreailing lest ^'"■'^''"K"'- 
 tlio enemy sliould pay I'ortalegre another visit. As the nuns 
 looked upon us as protectors, they received us cordially, and 
 relaxed a little the stringent rules regarding the admission of 
 strangers. Their chanting of vespers was particularly fine. 
 
 The people told us that in 1808 General Loison, with a 
 movable colunni of French troops, was on a roving expedition, 
 raising forced contributions. He came to I'ortalegre in 
 August, and demanded a heavy sum from the inhabitants, 
 threatening the town in a savage manner with fire and sword 
 if the sum was not paid within a certain time. He made 
 several of the principal inhabitants attend to receive and 
 count the money over to his agents at the house where he 
 was quartered. One day while the money came pouring in, 
 and before the Frencli had time to count it, the startling news 
 suddenly arrived that the hjiglish had landed. This created 
 a great hubbub. The drums beat to arms. Loison had 
 received orders to march instantcr. The heaps of money in 
 gold and silver on the different tables were hurriedly swept 
 into sacks and packed off, and six of the most respectable 
 citizens carried away as hostages, that the remaining part of 
 the contribution, which was not collected should be paid. 
 He even ordered the rich damask silk hangings, which 
 adorned the public rooms to be taken. 
 
 Where there was so large a garrison, there were of course 
 mnay sporting characters amongst tlie officers. A committee, 
 or miniature Jockey Club, was establislied, and horse-racing 
 became the order of tlie day. A tolerably good course was 
 laid out in the plain, and everything was conducted in due 
 form, under the patronage of our amiable commander. 
 General Hill, who himself was a great amateur in horse-flesh, 
 and had always a capital stud. 
 
 The 17th ^larch being St. Patrick's day, the Irish 
 members of our regiment determined to celebrate i^tu March 
 the anniversary of their patron saint, as wont is in ^^"*" 
 
192 
 
 their native isle. Wo all voluiitcored to make it a general 
 feast. The nsual noisy hilarity on such occasions prevailed. 
 Wine flowed freely. Miectrio flashes of Irish wit delighted 
 the hearers. The band played appropriate tunes, and 
 national melodies were sweetly sung l)y many a manly voice 
 in this foreign land with feeling and effect. The joyous 
 evening passed as if war existed not, nor an enemy in the 
 Peninsula. And yet this proved the last commemoration of 
 this festive day to several of the brave fellows who were now 
 so happy. 
 
 St. Patrick's day having passed off so pleasantly, the 
 2srd April, KngHsh rcsolvcd to make a like demonstration on 
 ^^^°' the 23rd April, St. George's day. Every prepara- 
 
 tion for a magnificent display was in progress. The saloon 
 was adorned with flags and dift'erent devices. The cooks 
 were busy in the kitchen. The wines were cooling, and all 
 was in active progress. To further honour the day, and as a 
 compliment to our gallant Clenoral, several of the great dons 
 and landholders had arranged that there should be a grand 
 Wolf hunt wolf hunt. All the daring siiirits and sportinji: 
 
 propDsod, . lit, 
 
 but inter- charactei'S were astir at an early hour in tlie 
 
 tored with • 1 1 p • 
 
 by move- momiug lull of excitcineiit in anticipation of this, 
 
 ment of tho ^ ' 
 
 French. to tlieiu, ncw spccics of sport. Some were 
 already mounted, and were eagerly pushing on to the 
 appointed rendezvous, when, lo ! an express with despatches 
 arrived with intelligence that the French had suddenly 
 attacked the Spaniards, and had driven them out of Albu- 
 querque, a frontier town a few leagues ofl*. 
 
 Disappointment was depicted in every countenance, but 
 this fit of chagrin was only momentary. The idea of meeting 
 the enemy soon banished all selfish considerations. The 
 scene was quickly changed from peaceful pursuits to war- 
 like preparations. The delicacies provided for the banquet 
 were hastily distributed amongst the subscribers. 
 
 Everyone hurried off to pack up, and all was soon in 
 readiness to take the field. The whole division was in 
 motion by 2 o'clock p.m. After marching about two leagues, 
 
193 
 
 wn W(^ve liiiltwl ncfir Alogvoto. It was now ]>crroctly davk, 
 and we hovo liivnnaeketl in tlio literal senso of the word — that 
 is to say, we wore moved a sliort distance off tlu^ road into a 
 wooded plain. Kacli nian laid himself on the Liround, on tho 
 softest spot ht^ ctndd iind, and slumbered with lii.s arms in his 
 hands, ready to fjtart up, or move, at a moment's notiei\ As 
 ouv l»a<jga,:^c had been ordered to remain in tho rear, onr only 
 meal ecmsisted of a mouthful of cold meat and bi.^euit which 
 our haversacks afforded; and as no firca were allowed to he 
 lighted, wo kept ourselves as warm as we could by smoking 
 cigars. 
 
 Next morning, the 24th April, we stood to our arms long 
 before daylight. Some hours afterwards it was ro- 24thAi.Hi, 
 ported that the enemy had retired. We were then ''*^*'' 
 permitted to light tires, and our baggage having come up, we 
 got some excellent tea to warm us. We, however, remaintnl 
 on the alert all day, until it was positively ascertained that 
 the French had retreated. We returned to Porta- o^ith Mmi, 
 logre, and occupied our former rpiarters on the 25th ^^^^' 
 April. 
 
 During our sojourn in these pleasant quarters, we were 
 rather puzzled, by our pay being kept so much in arrear, 
 how to obtain the comforts of life beyond our actual rations 
 of wine, beef, and biscuits. Fortunately for us, after the pay- 
 master and others had declined to aid us, an extraordinary 
 character appeared amongst us like an angel, to alleviate our 
 distress. This noble-hearted and generous man was not a 
 Christian, but a Moor or IMohammedan, and, except a few 
 words of Spanish, spoke no language but his own. This 
 stranger brought with him a large stock of all the requisite 
 necessaries, and many of the luxuries, of refined life, and 
 opened a store for their disposal. The few who had the 
 means paid him ready money. To the many who had no 
 money he handed a slip of paper with pen and ink. Each 
 one wrote down the articles he wanted, witii a promise to pay 
 for them when the money should arrive. No further security 
 
 was required, so great was his ftiith in Bi-itish honour. Now, 
 
 13 
 
1D4 
 
 considering tliat wc woro all and each of us liable shortly to 
 go into action and be killed, or to die of fever, he really ran 
 no small risk in giving such unlimited credit, and his charges, 
 even under these circumstances, were by no means exorbi- 
 tant. 
 
 One fine evening, the 3rd May, a party of us — military 
 A spaniHh youths — Nvliilc strolHiig about at Portalegre on the 
 frontiers of Portugal, met some Spanish officers who 
 were busily eiigjigcd in making purchases of some articles of 
 ornament, and such a])pliances of luxury as tlie place aflbrded. 
 The Spaniards, to our gn>at surprise, notwithstanding their 
 being such close neighbours to our friends the Portugese, could 
 only make themselves very imperfectly understood; while we, 
 although foreigners, being more au fait at the Portuguese 
 terms for the more necessary articles of lif(5, were iu)t a little 
 amused at the circumstance of having to act as interpreters. 
 The Sjiain'ards, who felt sensible of our attention, informed us 
 that tliey had been deputed on the part of the Governor of 
 Valencia d'Alcantara, as a connuittee of taste, to procure all 
 that was rerpiisite for a splendid ball which was in course of 
 preparation. They most politely requested that we would do 
 them the pleasure of honouring it with our presence. Glad 
 of an 0|)])ortunity which would afford us some respite from 
 our usual nn'litary routine, we readily accepted their friendly 
 invitation ; and on the day appointed we started over the 
 borders, not to surprise the enemy, as our gallant and amiable 
 Commander-in-Chief soon afterwards did near the same place, 
 but to surprise our friends who invited us, they appearing to 
 think that we looked upon their invitation as nothing more 
 than complimentary words of course. 
 
 The road, which was of the worst descrii)tion, passed over 
 a hilly country, covered at intervals with foiests of chestnuts 
 and oaks, or intersected at times with deep and verdant 
 valleys, affording scenery of a varied, romantic, and wild 
 character, such as might well have seemed a most fitting 
 locality for banditti, had not the reality truly existed, for the 
 district was the rendezvous of fierce Ladrones and bands of 
 
mn 
 
 smugglers. Wc, however, escaped with impunity, and late 
 ill the allornoon reached the appointed fortress. 
 
 We now began to take into consideration — what we had 
 not thonght of before — where we Avere to put u]): hotels there 
 were none; we decided, as in duty bound, that we should in 
 the first place report our arrival to the Governor, and trust to 
 his generosity for procuring us accommodation. We accord- 
 ingly proceeded to the Grand Plac^a, where his house was 
 situated. It was crowded with a most heterogeneous mixture 
 of motley military, the garrison being composed of parties of 
 different corps, who had escaped when the Spanisli armies 
 had been worsted and dispersed. ]\Iy companions deputed 
 me, as being reckoned the most proficient in the noble Casti- 
 lian tongue, to announce our arrival, and to request the 
 indulgence of billets for us, as friends and allies of His Most 
 Catholic Majesty. I found it a matter of some ditliculty, 
 owing to the Spanish formalities, to effect an entrance. 
 After a parley with the sentry, and bullying au old porter, I 
 at last succeeded. Ijeing met by an ofUcial [)erson of a non- 
 descript appearance, I was by him ushered into the presence 
 of his Excellency "El Gobernador". This potentate, a tall, 
 gaunt personage, advanced in years, was standing at a table, 
 most eagerly occupied in making punch, towards which con- 
 summation he was in the act of squeezing a lemon, which, if 
 one might judge from his grimaces, must have been a very 
 hard one. He kept grumbling to himself, seemingly Tuicon- 
 scious that a stranger had been announced, while I, in the 
 meantime, was, in my best Spanish, respectfully addressirig 
 him with many flowery compliments, and requesting from 
 him, as a comrade in arms, billets and hospitality. He at 
 length directed a vacant stare towards me, exclaiuung at tlie 
 same time, "Oh, Seiior official! que quiere usted ? " Between 
 surprise at being thus abruptly addressed, and tlie endeavour 
 to suppress a titter, I confess I got rather bewildered in my 
 oratory. I, however, began to repeat my requests, when my 
 ears were astonished by the voice of a female addressing me 
 in English, and in the most refined and polished accent, "My 
 
lor. 
 
 dear sir, pray do not givo yourself any uneasiness ; we were 
 aware of your coming; everything is arranged for your re- 
 ception". On my turning round, with some surprise, I 
 beheld a large, fine, lady-liko person, who had just entered 
 the room. I could not resist giving a look of in({uiry, as if 
 soliciting a solution of this enigma. She seemed perfectly to 
 comprehend the meaning of the look, for, laugliing very good- 
 humouredly, she said, " Pray go and bring up your com- 
 panions: there are orderlies ready to take your horses, billets 
 are prepared for you, and you shall know presently by what 
 chance you meet a countrywoman here". 
 
 I lost no time in returning to my friends, who were re- 
 joiced at the success of my mission. I introduced them all in 
 due form, even to the old Clovernor, wlio, after a few unneces- 
 sary bows and scrapes, resumed his former occupation. 
 Some of his staft' having arrived, they took my friends to 
 show tluMu the lions, while I remained with our I'aii' friend, 
 to learn her history, which was told in a few brief words. 
 
 " I am," said she, " the daugliter of the late General 
 Mercer. My father was stationed at ^Minorca. I was then 
 very young, and I there met Pepe" (poniting significantly to 
 his Exce|lency),"and married him, without even once reflecting 
 that he was a foreigner, and I a stranger to his country." 
 This account of herself interested me very much, because I 
 happened to know several members of the General's family, 
 and a near relation of his was married to a connection of my 
 own family. On my mentioning these circumstances, she 
 seemed much affected. She kindly offered me a seat in her 
 carriage to the ball, and begged I would attend her while she 
 did the honours of the evening. 
 
 The Gobernadora was received in great state, and accepted 
 the homage of the dons and donnas with considerable 
 dignity and grace. The ball was brilliant, and the senoritas, in 
 their singular but most becoming Spanish dresses, were now 
 all animation. 
 
 The assembly was particularly full, because this town, 
 being at that period out of range of our warlike operations. 
 
was considered as a place of security, and many families from 
 the neighbouring towns and country had taken refuge here ; 
 hence, as may be supposed, the appearance of a few English 
 ofticers created some little sensation amongst the ladies, who 
 seemed determined to be agreeable ; and few w omen possess 
 greater powers of pleasing, accompanied with sprightly, ready 
 wit, than the Spanish ladies. 
 
 Nothing would satisfy some of them but that one of us 
 must dance a hornpipe. This, they supposed, was a sine qud 
 non of an Englishman's accomplishments; while we, with equal 
 absurdity, insisted that some of them should dance a fandango 
 or bolero, both parties being ignorant respecting the national 
 feelings and customs severally pertaining to them. We were 
 thus unconsciously victimising each other. While this friendly 
 altercation was carried on in the utmost good-humour between 
 us and the ladies, it was nearly leading to unpleasant results 
 amongst the military dons themselves. Some one of them, 
 out of compliment to us, having very good-naturedly said 
 that they would dance a bolero, others, it seems, insisted that 
 such dances were not proper for public exhibition in a ball- 
 room — that they were only performed by the low and vulgar, 
 and never in good society, except occasionally in family parties 
 as a little piece of drollery. This was denied by others ; warm 
 words ensued ; dcsajios (xVnglice, challenges) were given and 
 accepted ; but, on our understanding how all'airs were going 
 on, we begged to interfere, and had no great dilliculty in bring- 
 ing these blustering heroes to reason ; and happily, or rather 
 unhappily, for us, a Spanisli officer got us out of the dilemma 
 of dancing a hornpipe by volunteering to do it himself. This, 
 to our admiration and dismay, he did to perfection. He set 
 to work with heart and soul — footed, hopped, shullled, and 
 gigged in the true man-of-war style. It appeared he had 
 learned this boisterous dance while a prisoma, having been 
 taken in a naval engagement. This exhibition alforded great 
 amusement to the senoritas, who most wickedly seemed to 
 enjoy our confusion. In vain we solenndy protested that it 
 was not a gentlemanly dance, although a favourite one of old 
 
198 
 
 witli our brave Jack Turs. Our sole remedy was to join in 
 the lauyli at our own expense, which was only interrupted by 
 the announcement of supper. Here refreshments of every 
 kind were in abundance, including the most choice fruits of 
 Spain and her generous wines. Good-humour was the order 
 of the night. The ball recommenced, and continued with 
 great spirit until an early hour in the morning. 
 
 During intervals of this festive scene, I had a tete-ct-tetc 
 with her Excellency la Gobernadora. She seemed bitterly 
 to repent, in her years of maturity, the rash step she had taken 
 when, in her youth, she had given her heart to such a coni- 
 Mr. Pcpo. panion ; for I'epc had absorbed so much punch that he 
 either could not or would not appear. Yet Pepe had been a 
 gay man in his day — had touched the guitar with exquisite 
 feeling, had sung Seguidillas, or lays of love, and had danced 
 to admiration. But Pepe had neglected the cultivation of his 
 mind, and, having no idea of the quiet comforts of domestic 
 retirement which his declining years required, nor any mental 
 resource, he became peevish and unhappy. His unfortunate 
 lady, who by birth and education was deserving of a worthier 
 destiny, was doomed to live estranged from her friends and 
 the society she had been accustomed to, surrounded by those 
 who had no one sympathy in her feelings, and having no 
 communion of sentiment even with her own husband. Few 
 foreign gentlemen have any idea of that domestic happiness 
 which constitutes an Englishman's satisfaction. They seldom 
 dine with their families : the coffee-room and gambling-table 
 are but too frequently their evening resorts ; while the Ladies, 
 under these circumstances, are driven to seek amusement from 
 without. Hence the nightly conversaziones of Italy, the 
 tertulias of Spain, and the loose state of society in France, 
 While I was escorting about our fair countrywoman, little did 
 those who were enjoying the gay scene know or imagine the 
 sorrow which was assailing the heart of her Excellency, who, 
 with all the outward show of one perfectly at ease, was con- 
 descendingly receiving or returning the numerous friendly 
 salutations or demonstrations of respect. 
 
191) 
 
 I have subsequently met others of my country wo men in a 
 similar position, in various parts of Europe; and the Moralising. 
 painful recollections of such encounters have given occasion 
 to these reflections. They are not written in a spirit of preju- 
 dice against foreigners. I have passed nnich of my life abroad, 
 and many happy days liave I spent on alien shores ; but such 
 passing enjoyments do not constitute the happiness of a life 
 — they ought rather to make us rellect that more permanent 
 ones are necessary, and, above all things, necessary for English 
 people. It must never be forgotten that every country has 
 its own peculiar manners and customs. Our countrywomen, 
 whose brightest possession consists in those pure moral feel- 
 ings and that just self-respect for which they are so exten- 
 sively renowned, cannot safely associate permanently with 
 those more than doubtful characters so frequently met with 
 in society abroad. Even let an Englishman bring a foreign 
 wife to his country — she never can accommodate herself to our 
 habits and manners : they are too tame for her, and there are 
 too many domestic arrangements to be attended to — she is 
 continually sighing to return. Yet how often does it now 
 occur that, allured by some empty title — or even, perhaps, 
 by some frivolous accomplishment of foreign growth — our 
 beautiful countrywomen sacriiice theuiselves in forming foreign 
 connections — to reap disappointment and perhaps ultimate 
 neglect. Vanity in a woman is, in many instances, pardon- 
 able ; but when she abandons all that ought to be most dear 
 — friends, home, and country — to satisfy a false taste, then, 
 indeed, it becomes dithcult to hold her blameless. 
 
 We returned next day, the 4th of May, all much pleased 
 with our trip over the borders. 
 
 Intelligence having arrived on the cvenhig of the l-ith 
 May that the enemy were n)oving on Badajos, we j^, 
 received orders to march at daylight next morning 
 for Aronches, which we reached after a miserable march of 
 four leagues. The rain came down in torrents. The smaller 
 rivulets were rendered in a short time almost unpassable. 
 We had to wade, several up to our breasts, the men drawing 
 
 new 
 caiiii«it'ii. 
 
200 
 
 their pouches up to their shoulders to preserve their amniuui- 
 tioii ; the ranks of each section locked arm, and by keeping 
 shoulder to shoulder stennned the current; but notwithstand- 
 ing this precaution, one or two men of another corps were 
 swept away and drowned. The baggage could not pass until 
 the water had subsided, and even then those who were unfortu- 
 nate enough to have their baggage onsniall mules or asses lost a 
 great portion of it. Nor were our prospects on arriving very 
 cheering. Our regiment was put into a large old convent. 
 Each of us got an empty cell for our billet. There, drenched 
 to the skin, cold, and hungry, we were left to our own 
 reflections. We at length managed to get timber from 
 ruined houses, and made a fire in the courtyard and 
 surrounding cloisters. Some ration beef and sour "wine 
 formed our only repast in this wretched place. 
 
 Aronches is an ancient town situated on a Hat hill, and 
 encircled with old jMoorish walls and towers. The whole 
 wore a melancholy appearance of decay ; but the surrounding 
 16th May, couutry Seemed tolerably well cultivated. We 
 1810. remained here the following day, the IGtli, and 
 
 in the evening it was announced that we were to return to 
 Portalegre, because the enemy after reconnoitring Badajos, 
 finding that we were on the alert, had again retreated, 
 carrying off with them all the cattle they could collect in its 
 neighbourhood. We returned to Portalegre next day, the 
 17th May. 
 
 Nothing particular happened to us during the month of 
 June. In July the plot of war began to thicken. It was 
 evident that a deep game was to be played. 
 
 On the 11th July reports were spread that the enemy 
 were again threatening Badajos. We were, as on the former 
 occasion, marched oil in a hurry early next morning to 
 Aronches. This proved a feint on the part of the enemy. 
 CTeneral Hill, from the excellent information he always 
 obtained, found out that, although the French had detached 
 a column towards Badajos, their main body was actually 
 moving north towards the Tagus, with the design of crossing 
 
201 
 
 tliat river, and by a coup dc main to seize Castello Branco, 
 and thus interpose at a most vulnerable point between our 
 corps and the main army under Lord Wellin<fton. Our able 
 General instantly decided on countd'acting the French plans, 
 and by rapid marches to reach Castello Branco before them. 
 We were therefore ordered back to Portaleuire, which i;hu Jxiy, 
 
 ° 1810.— 
 
 we reached next morninjf, the 13th July, and on the Mwchto 
 following day, the 14th, we commenced our march uianco. 
 to the north, and reached Apalao, near which we bivouacked. 
 As it was absolutely necessary that we shoidd proceed by 
 forced marches, and the weather being extremely warm, it 
 was determined that we should always make such marches 
 during the night and allow the men to repose during the 
 day. 
 
 We started again in the cool of the evening of the 17th 
 July, and bivouacked near Niza by daybreak next morning. 
 During this night's march we first observed the splendid 
 comet, which was seen remarkably clear with the naked eye. 
 Having no tents, nor time to erect huts, and there being no 
 woods in this district, we suffered much from want of shelter 
 to shade us from the sun during the day, so that we got 
 little sleep or rest. We moN'ed again on tlie night of the 
 18th, and reached the difficult ])ass of Villa Villia, after a 
 long march over bad roads. We here crossed the Tagus 
 by the bridge of boats, and did not get into our bivouac on 
 the right bank until rather late in the day. 
 
 It being ascertained that we had anticipated the enemy, 
 and that they could not now reach Castello Branco before us, 
 we were allowed to rest here until the foHowdng morning, 
 the 20th, when we proceeded to Cernados. This proved a 
 most oppressively hot day. ]\leii of all regiments fell out and 
 lay gasping on tlie roadside, unable to move ; several of them 
 died, and others dropped down dead. I suffered intensely 
 myself, owing to my horse losing a shoe. I desired my 
 servant to lead him back to a blacksmith's shop which we 
 had passed. I got leave to remain in the rear, thinking that 
 my servant would soon overtake me again, while 1 slowly 
 
202 
 
 trudged on ; but my patience became exhausted, and my 
 strength began to fail, and no signs of my cavallo appearing, 
 I summoned resolution and continued to push on, seeing that 
 the poor fellows who had thrown themselves on the ground 
 were in a sad condition under a cloudless sun. 
 
 On the following day, the 21st July, we reached Castello 
 Branco. We here learned that the enemy, on finding that 
 we had succeeded in occupying this place, had taken posses- 
 sion of Penamacor, a strong post about eight leagues from 
 Castello Branco, commanding the road from it to the north of 
 Spain, and had thus cut off our communication by that 
 frontier route with the main army under Lord Wellington. 
 There was, however, another but less practicable road across 
 the mountains, farther back in I'ortugal. 
 
 After halting a day we were pushed on, on the 22nd 
 July, to Ladricero, and Atalaha, and bivouacked in a wood 
 within two leagues of the enemy's advanced posts. We 
 remained here about a week, constantly on the alert. The 
 country was rather open, and the enemy were much superior 
 to us in cavalry. 
 
 We retired on the 30th July to Finalhas, and in the 
 afternoon of the following dtiy we were suddenly ordered 
 under arms. Eeports reached us that the enemy were ad- 
 vancing. After waiting some time we moved off to the rear, 
 and all the baggage was ordered to precede us. We had 
 marched about two leagues when we were halted, in order, 
 I believe, to give countenance to our small force of cavalry 
 which was covering our rear. As they, however, did not ap- 
 pear, and night was fast coming on, we bivouacked on the 
 roadside, every man lying down with his arms by his side, 
 After daylight our piquets were called in, and we continued 
 our retreat to Sarzades, a small deserted village situated on 
 a hill partially covered with wood. 
 
 This was a position which had been previously fixed 
 upon to make a stand, in case the enemy should attempt to 
 attack us ; and a well-chosen point it was, as it commanded 
 not only the road, leading to the pass of Villa Villia, but also 
 
203 
 
 tlie road to Tlioniav and the centre of rortugal. Our riglit 
 was Hanked by tlie Tagus, from wliencc the bridge of boats 
 could speedily be removed ; our left by a chain of mountains 
 running l)ack from the Grand I'^strelln ; and our cavalry were 
 at Castello Hrauco, three leagues in front, to watch the enemy. 
 
 We erected huts in rear of the position, as bivouacs for 
 the men, and opened communications along the whole line, 
 so that the column or the artillery could easily be moved to 
 support any particular point. A strong advanced guard was 
 also posted at a pnss about three miles in our immediato 
 front. 
 
 We remained perched on the top of this barren hill nearly 
 three weeks, during the whole of which period we were miser- 
 ably ill ofl'. Our friend the ^Nloor had not followed us into 
 these desolate and dreary regions. The stocks of the inferior 
 suttlers wore ([uickly exhausted. The inhabitants of the 
 miserable villages had fled to the mountains, carrying with 
 them any goods they possessed. We frc^quently had literally 
 nothing but scanty rations of beef and musty bread ; no rice 
 or vegetables to make soup could be procured ; we could not 
 even get brown sugar for our tea. 
 
 During this period I was seized with a serious attack of 
 fever and ague. The surgeon wished to send me to the 
 general hospital at Thoniar, biit I declined quitting my regi- 
 ment while the enemy were in our front. He, however, had 
 me removed into the field hos])ital, which was only a dilapi- 
 dateil country church, without doors or windows. There 
 laid in a corner, a little straw, with my blankets and cloak, 
 was my sick-bed, which was only separated from those of the 
 privates by a few boards, which were put up to screen me 
 from their gaze. I, however, thanks be to God and a good 
 constitution, got over it, while others sank. 
 
 During this time the French had obtained several suc- 
 cesses. In June, they had invested Ciudad French take 
 llodrigo, which was garrisoned by nearly live Roiiiigo 
 thousand men under General Herasti. The enemy Aimeiaa. 
 met with a brave I'sistance, but the works were old and 
 
204 
 
 ruinous, and after enduring a siege of a month, the garrison 
 capitulated on the 10th July, 1810. 
 
 Almeida was also besieged and taken. The French hi- 
 vested the place on the liSrd August. On the 27th a maga- 
 zine containing nearly all the amnmnition of the defenders 
 exploded, and destroyed a great part of the town, killing 
 28th Aug., many of the inhabitants. On the following day, 
 ^^^^' the 28tli August, General Cox, who conunanded the 
 
 garrison, surrendered, and the French obtained possession of 
 the town. 
 
 It being our turn of duty for advanced guard, which was 
 onUic taken regimentally, we marched out on the 10th 
 luiirch. September to relieve the former one, and occupied 
 a position on a height commanding a bridge over a small 
 stream which ran along the foot of a range of hills. The 
 point of defence was well chosen, being opposite an elbow 
 of the river which bent towards us, so that field-works thrown 
 up on each side of the road, on which were posted a few 
 pieces of cannon, effectually conmianded the passage by their 
 cross fire. We remained here quiet all the next day, the 11th. 
 
 On the morning of the 12th September we received sudden 
 orders to withdraw, and to proceed after our division, which 
 had already marched to tlie rear. We repassed through 
 Sarzedas and crossed a small river which ran in front of 
 very high hills in rear of it. We mounted these by zig-zag 
 roads ; and at all the most important points which com- 
 manded the ascent we found batteries erected and several 
 furnished with cannon. This proved the great foresight of 
 our gallant Commander-in-Chief, as by providing these defences 
 the militia and peasantry of the country would be enabled to 
 defend these passes in this strong region, through which the 
 road leads on the right bank of the Tagus to Thomar and 
 Lisbon. We aid our division already bivouacked on the 
 mountain above the works. 
 
 We moved the next day to Zibriera Formosa and halted 
 the following one, I believe to see whether the enemy was 
 making any attempt tu follow us or not ; but there being no 
 
•205 
 
 signs of thorn, wo. inarcliod to Corti(ja(la. ?>otli those phvcos 
 are pretty villages beautifully situated in this mountainous 
 range. 
 
 We remained a day at ('orti(;iida. On the 17th September 
 we marched to Cardigas, and on the IRth to Villa de Iiey, both 
 mountain villages, and then bivouacked on the bank oi" the 
 Tairus. In the afternoon there was a most tremendous 
 thunderstorm, accomjjanied with the heaviest rain I almost 
 ever witnessed. This drove the scorpions and Scorpions 
 centipedes into our small tents. I found a pccios. 
 horrible long brute of a centipede under my pillow and 
 several scorpions in the grass. 
 
 We crossed the Zezere next morning and bivouacked in a 
 wood near Villa dos lieys. We here understood that matters 
 were now coming to a crisis, that the enemy under Massena 
 had crossed the iVontiers in great force, that Lord Wellington 
 had fallen back to a strong position, and that we were to 
 proceed to join him with as little delay as possible. In order 
 that there might be no hindrance on the road, all the sick, 
 and even the weakly men, with the women and children, 
 were ordered to remain beiiind, and an olTicer of our regiment 
 was appointed to take charge of them and conduct them to 
 Thomar, where a depot was to be established. After the 
 officer was named and all the arrangements made, our surgeon, 
 aware that I was again subject to attacks of fever and ague, 
 had gone, it seems, to our commanding officer, Major Way, 
 and represented to him that I ought not to proceed. On the 
 Adjutant bringing me an order to that efi'ect I remonstrated, 
 but the Major himself peremptorily ordered me to receive the 
 official papers from the officer already appointed and take the 
 command. I had no alternative Init to obey. Taking a hasty 
 fixrewell of my conn-ades, iVom whom I had never uoutcmuit 
 hitherto been separated when any actual field ch«rgeot 
 
 , . the sick at 
 
 services were going on, i was left alone in my Thomar. 
 glory in a desolate bivouac, having only one subaltern left 
 with me under my orders. 
 
 On assembling my detachment, which consisted of men 
 
206 
 
 belonging to all tlu; diircront roginiciits of tlio division, T 
 found it, amounted to ir)0 of all sorts — tlio sicl<,thn lanio, and 
 the la7,v, besides 50 women and 40 eliildren. After sonio 
 delay the commissary sent mo a squadron of mules, on some 
 of which T mounted thn most sickly men, and loaded the 
 others with tlie knapsaeics, accoutrements, &c., of all that 
 were able to walk. My instructions were to proceed to 
 Thomar and to form a depot for our division. I hastened 
 on to provide the necessary (piarters, and my sub marched at 
 the head of this motley procession and arrived at Thomar late 
 in the afternoon. On a])i)licatioii to tlu; Jui/ de Fora, he gave 
 me two large empty houses for the nun and (piartered all 
 the women and children in the wini^- of a convent of nuns. 
 I went to report myself to an old Tortuj^uese general, then 
 acting as connnander of the place. His staff said he was 
 Catching asleep, and further than that I had no intercourse 
 iisiuoi). With hnn. 1 lieeame the hn<;lish commander, and 
 my garrison increased faster than I could have wished, as for 
 several days numbers of men kept coming in. They reported 
 that in consequence of the division proceeding by hasty and 
 forced marches to the north, they were unal)le either to keep 
 up with their regiments or to overtake them. 
 
 1 was now in for another attack of lever and ague. The 
 fit came on not every third day, but eveiy day, so that I was 
 reduced to a state of extreme weaknes.s. The medical oflicers 
 urged me to take a sick certificate and to proceed to Lisbon ; 
 but having a certain responsible connnand, 1 declined their 
 advice. I received a report on the oOth September that a 
 battle had been fought at Jiusaco on the 27th and 28th. As 
 many wounded would consequently arrive it became neces- 
 sary to remove to Lisbon a portion of the sick now in hospital 
 here ; and the surgeon again representing to me that I had 
 no chance of getting well without a change of air, 1 gave over 
 the command to the next senior oflicer and proceeded on the 
 2nd Oct., 2^^^ October with a convoy of 150 sick to Barquinha 
 ^^^*'" on the Tagus, where boats were prepared for us. 
 
 The whole detachment embarked on the morning of the 
 
207 
 
 ?>vd Octnhcv, and iiumcdialely procoodod down tlio Tiijj;iis, 
 linvinj,' wind and cnircnt in our I'avnnr. Tlio V(>ssols wore 
 lavgo oj)cn boats, slinv)» at, Iiutli ends, liavini,' only u dock nt 
 tho storn of a f(!\v fdct long for the stoersnian to stand on, 
 honeath wliicli was a sort of small cabin ov store-room. 
 Yjdch boat held abont thirty nnin besides the crew. On 
 approaf'hing Santaroni the wAor was nnfort\inately very 
 low. Some of the boats grounded, and it became extremely 
 dark. We were obliged to pass a cold night on the wat(>r, 
 with only a sail thrown over ns to protect us from tho heavy 
 dew. We, however, reached Santareni to breakfast. 
 
 Wo found llie place in the greatest state of alarm. To 
 my surprise the people informed us that reports had arrived 
 that oiu' army M'as retreating. Terror and dismay were 
 dv'pioted on every countenance. All seemed to imagine that 
 the Uritish wen* about to abandon them to the fury of a 
 merciless enemy. I got on lioard again without delay, and 
 in tho evening reached Villa Franca, where everything 
 a])pcared as <piiet and still as in the time of the profoundcst 
 peace; but on going to tho Juiz do Fora for billets, he received 
 me in a state of great agitation, in a very abrupt manner, 
 muttering to himself. As the rortugese are usually very 
 polite and have a bland sort of manner, I inquired what was 
 the matter. lie then told me that he had just received a 
 despatch announcing that our army was actually retiring, 
 and also an order for all the inhabitants to abandon the town, 
 so as to leave nothing but empty houses should the enemy 
 advance. This was rather startling intelligence. The poor 
 man felt great perturbation at having such an unpleasant duty 
 imposed upon him as to connnunicate such disasters to his 
 fellow citizens. 
 
 How changed tho scene at, daybreak on the morning of 
 the r)th October ! Thousands who had gone to bed ,,^1, October, 
 in peace and plenty now rose beggars and outcasts ''*^'*' 
 from their happy homes. It ^vas truly a melancholy sight to 
 behold the poor inhabitants running bewildered about the 
 streets, or crowding in thousands to the quays ; handsome 
 
208 
 
 ladies with helpless infants in their arms; others with baskets 
 of plate in their hands ; some with useless articles of furni- 
 ture ; each one in bewilderment seizing the first thing that 
 came to hand, and all endeavouring to make their escape. 
 The cries of tiie children and the wailings of despair of the 
 women were heartrending. Tn the midst of this distressing 
 scene numbers of M'oi.ien, men, and oHicers were arriving, 
 which added to the calamity, because additional boats were 
 now required to convey tliem and the military stores to Lisbon, 
 so that nundjers were deprived of the means of getting away. 
 Many delicate and interesting senoras kept imploring us to 
 give them a passage, l)ut all the boats were so overcrowded 
 that I found it iuipossible to comply with their request ; and, 
 glad to escape from the sight of so much real human misery, 
 I ordered the fbjtilla to get under weigh. 
 
 Villa Franca is a handsome town, the streets very regular 
 and clean, most of the houses of a superior description, it beiug 
 a favourite summer residence of many of the wealthy citizens 
 of Lisbon. The whole had an appearance of comfort which 
 gave it an English look; and, in a commercial point of view, it 
 was one of the most thriving places in Portugal, because 
 vessels of large size could come u]) close to the quays. The 
 environs were beautiful, being ornamented with orange- 
 groves and gardens of every description. 
 
 I took several wounded ollicers on board my boat, 
 amongst whom was an aide-de-camp of General Sir Brent 
 Spencer. 
 
 About a league below Villa Franca we observed a con- 
 siderable range of heights on the right bank of the Tagus, 
 rising from the town of Alhandra, and stretching towards the 
 west, on which appeared batteries and embankments. I 
 inquired of the boatnum what these were. He answered, 
 " Oh, sir, those are the lines ". This was an enigma to us, 
 but my friend the aide-de-camp solved the mystery. He 
 said, " That is the position Lord Wellington is now falling 
 back upon, and where he means to meet the enemy ". This 
 threw a new light upon us. Everyone wondered, and became 
 
200 
 
 animated. Each one seemed to take an intense interept in 
 examining the littk^ we could see of such works as we swept 
 along. It was unaminously agreed that our valiant com- 
 mander had in this displayed the utmost sagacity. His secret 
 had been well kept. None of us had ever heard of these pre- 
 parations. We reached Lisbon in the afternoon, Return to 
 and disembarked at the Black Horse Square. I ^'*^"- 
 delivered over my sick squad to the Inspector of Hospitals, 
 and had the good fortune to get a billet on a tolerably 
 good house. I felt gratified to find a quiet place after all 
 the marchings, and countermarchings, and toils we had 
 endured for the last four months. 
 
 Nothing surprised me more than the state of Lisbon at 
 this critical period. There appeared no agitation, Lisijonand 
 no tumults of any kind. A stranger coming from a ^°^'^™- 
 foreign land could never have imagined that the country 
 was at that moment invaded by a foreign foe, that the whole 
 population of a great part of the land were driven from their 
 homes, all their property abandoned to destruction, and left 
 a prey to a numerous enemy led by the most renowned 
 marshals of France, and that their allies and their own army 
 were then retiring to take up a position and fight for the 
 lives and liberties of the Portuguese close to the walls of the 
 capital. 
 
 It is true, fugitives were flocking in from the country in 
 vast numbers, but the good citizens opened their doors, every- 
 one offering the unfortunates the best shelter and comforts 
 they could afford. The only real symptoms of alarm were, I 
 believe, shown in the money market. I understood that 
 handfuls of the government notes were offered for a mere trifle 
 for hard money, silver or gold coin. But confidence seemed 
 perfectly restored when it became publicly known that Lord 
 Wellington had determined to defend the lines. 
 
 The general Hospital and Grand Depot for the British 
 army was established at Belem, and Captain John Tucker 
 of the 29th Eegiment had been commandant since after the 
 battle of Taiavera in 1809. He had a billet on the mansion 
 
 U 
 
210 
 
 of the Marquess of ]\Iarcalva, a splendid palace. This noble- 
 man was represented by everyone, and, I believe, most truly, 
 as tlie flower of the Portugese nobility. He had been sent to 
 Franco on a mission, and liad been kidnapped. He was 
 possessor of the principal vineyards which produced the 
 calares, a most excellent wine of rich flavour, and reckoned 
 the claret of Portugal. In the absence of the master, his 
 major-domo sold this wine. 
 
 On the 7th October, orders were issued that all the men 
 nil Oct. ^'^^^ oilicers fit for duty were to proceed to join their 
 1810. respective corps without delay. Feeling rather 
 
 better from the change of air, and excited by the idea of the 
 stormy scenes wliicli I was aware were about to take place, 
 I determined to join my regiment, although I had still three 
 weeks' leave of absence. T accordingly repoiled myself fit 
 for duty, and inimediately received orders to march next day 
 with a detachment to join the army. 
 
 On the 8th October, I went to Belem. While the party 
 was forming on parade to march off, I was seized with a 
 desperate fit of the ague, Imt this was no time to stand on 
 trifles. I liastened to the nearest casa de pasta, gulped down 
 a glass of brandy, and, while still labouring under tlie shivering 
 fit, I with tottering steps moved off the troops in the midst 
 of a heavy shower, which drenched us to the skin. We 
 arrived in the evening at Lumiar, two leagues' distance. 
 Some warm tea and a comfortable bed did wonders for me. 
 We inarched next day two leagues to Cabe^.a de Montecheque, 
 a small village situated on the heights of the second lines. 
 Here the detachments for the different divisions of the army 
 were separated, each taking the nearest route to the part of 
 Lines of the liucs wlucb liis division occupied. 1 being 
 
 Toirca . , , ... 
 
 vedras. the scuior otlicer l)elonging to the second division, 
 got command of those for tlint division. My orders were to 
 proceed to Alhandra. I started next morning, the 10th 
 October, and a very arduous march I had of it, as our route 
 lay generally by bye-roads, which were in a very Ijad state of 
 repair, and it rained incessantly On arriving at Bucellos, I 
 
211 
 
 was obliged to halt, beini^ seized with my usual attack of 
 ague. I however rallied after a lew hours, and reached 
 Alhandra in the afternoon. Colonel White was pleased to sec 
 me because he told me that leave of absence for nie had 
 recently appeared in general orders. 
 
 Every road to Lisbon was covered with unfortunate 
 fugitives of all ranks. Nfany elderly ladies in cars drawn by 
 oxen or on nmlos, and their family walking alongside, were 
 everywhere to be met witli. ^fany had taken refuge in the 
 various village churches, or in the chapels and oratories near 
 the roadsides. T entered one and found it crowded witli 
 people all on their knees in silent prayer. 
 
 Alhandra is a neat country town situated on the right 
 bank of the Tagus, and a place of considerable commerce. 
 Here, as in the other towns which lay in the track of the 
 armies, the miseries of war were displayed in their fidl force. 
 All the inhabitants had abandoned the place, leaving their 
 shops full of merchandise, their cellars full of wines, and 
 their houses open to the mercy of friend or foe. 
 
 The strictest orders were issued that all property should 
 be respected, and that any soldiers found committing depre- 
 dations or getting intoxicated should be instantly punished ; 
 but with so much temptation, and the numerous individuals 
 of worthless character which are found in every army, it is 
 not surprising that a few should have committed themselves. 
 These were seized, all the troops ])araded, drumhead courts- 
 martial were held, the offenders immediately tied up and 
 punished. 8ir William Stewart addressed the men in a, very 
 energetic speech, pointing out how base an action it was to 
 take advantage of the misfortunes of the inhabitants, to 
 plunder their property, and ho^^' cowardly it was for any 
 soldier when the enemy were close at hand to render himself 
 incapable of meeting them by getting intoxicated. 
 
 Lord Hill, in connnand of the second division, had only 
 arrived in the n)orning with his corps, nor had there been 
 time to ascertain the proper positions in the lines so as to 
 assign to each brigade its proper post in case of an alarm or 
 
212 
 
 an attack. Nor was it deemed at the moment so very 
 essential, as it was known that the Light Division were still 
 in front in order to cover the rear of our coluinn entering the 
 entrenchments at this portion of our positions. The usual 
 orders were given, as was always tlie case when near the 
 enemy, that the troops sliould stand to their arms before 
 daylight, and we only thought of getting early to rest in 
 order to be early up. 
 
 I had got a billet on a house, the inmates of which, in 
 common with their neighbours, had fled. Not a living 
 creature, dog or cat, was remaining in it, only myself and my 
 servant. Wearied with my long march that morning and 
 weakened with fever, I had just got some tea and was taking 
 otf my coat to lie down on a mattress, about eight o'clock, 
 when the alarm was given. An orderly announced that the 
 troops were instantly to get under arms. In an amazing 
 short time, each brigade was formed in its respective position. 
 We were then marched out of the town, up to the heights, 
 Aiiigbtin '^^id formed in contiguous close column of battle in 
 ^^,^0^*"^ rear of the lines which ran from the plain to the 
 vedras. ■yvcst, wliilc thc light troops were posted at the 
 entrance in front of the town, and the wet ditches running 
 from the town across a narrow piece of flat ground to the 
 Tagus. W'hilst waiting in this order it became pitch-dark, 
 piercingly cold, with incessant showers of heavy rain. There 
 we were obliged to stand, up to the ankles in nmd, wet to 
 the skin, sleepy as death, no cliance of getting under cover, 
 no possibility of sitting down, not allowed even to move 
 about to keep up a little warmth during the pelting storm 
 of this wretched night. I must confess my resolution was 
 never more severely tried than on this occasion. 
 
 The long-looked-for daylight at length appeared, and the 
 enemy not having dashed on as was expected, patrols were 
 sent out from the town, who on their return reported that 
 the enemy's advanced posts were established about a mile in 
 front. The first brigade, under Colonel Colburn was ordered 
 to occupy Alhandra, where General Hill's headquarters were 
 
213 
 
 established. Our brigade under Major-General Houghton 
 was to move to Sobral Piqueiio, a small village about two 
 miles to the westward of Alhandra, and nearly half a mile in 
 rear of the lines. While waiting for orders, I and a few 
 others had the good fortune to get into a baker's shop, which 
 had been deserted. We lighted a blazing fire with some of 
 his faggots, and standing round it half-roasted ourselves, 
 turning round first one side and then the other, until our 
 soaked clothing became dry as a board. We were then 
 ordered to get into quarters. It fell to my lot to get a small 
 house, where there was only a kitchen and two small cham- 
 bers on the ground floor. These were occupied by twenty 
 soldiers, and my apartment was little better than a loft, to 
 which I mounted by a rude kind of ship ladder. The poor 
 owners had abandoned their home, leaving all their little 
 winter stores hoarded up here. Theie were strings of onions 
 and garlic, pots of black olives in salt and water, heaps of 
 chestnuts, bunches of grapes hung across strings, sacks of 
 Indian corn, jai's of olive oil, black puddings, and morsels of 
 salted pork, loaves of bread of Indian corn-flour, which made 
 a damp, yellowish sort of bread. 
 
 An officer of the navy, Lieutenant Eliot, employed in the 
 gunboats which were stationed in the Tagus to flank the right 
 of the lines, at Alhandra, having an engagement to dine with 
 some officers in the lines, a few miles from the town of Alhan- 
 dra, was proceeding on foot. He observed in a field a fine 
 fig-tree full of tempting fruit at no great distance, in front of 
 one of our sentries. Nothing would satisfy him but he must 
 needs gather some of the fruit. The sentry cautioned him 
 not to make the attempt, at the same time pointing out to 
 him the sentry of the enemy, who was posted on the other 
 side of the field near the tree. The prudent advice was dis- 
 regarded ; on he went, and when snugly perched on the tree, 
 stuffing himself and his pockets with the figs, the French 
 sentry approached, called him down, made him pj^g^ 
 prisoner, and quietly walked him into the French ^""t'"y- 
 lines. He was innnediately sent oil' tu Mussuna's head- 
 
214 
 
 quarters, who, wiisliing to have a near view of our gun-boats, 
 under pretence of obliging our gallant friend by getting his 
 baggage for him, sent him, accompanied by a stafl-ofTicer, to 
 the bank of the Tagus near Yilhi Franca, on board one of 
 the gun-boats. On learning the lieutenant's fate, liis baggage 
 was sent on sliore to liim. Massena treated him with great 
 politeness, and made him dine with him every day, at his 
 own table, and after detaining him a week or two he sent 
 him back. 
 
 There was a heiglit about six or seven hundred yards' 
 distance beyond our lines of defence, where our sentries were 
 ]»osted i'roni daybreak till dark, when they were withdrawn, 
 and the enemy then pushed on tlieir videttes and occupied it 
 until next morning. 1 used often to walk out to this height 
 to look down on the enemy's camp, which was at a short 
 distance on the otlier side, having gardens and vineyards 
 intervening. One day I oljserved a French soldier in full 
 uniform, coming through a vineyard towards us, leading an 
 ass. As he kept dodging and creeping along, I kept my eye 
 A German upou hiui, thinking that he was looking out to get a 
 
 dcHorter , , , , . ' . 
 
 and his .ass. shot at fouv or hvc youug otncers, who, having just 
 joined the army, were standing all together. I recommended 
 them to separate a little, so as to divert his attention, and not 
 present so large an object for him to aim at. While watching 
 him, I observed that he suddenly left his ass, and threw down 
 his arms. He then made a dash right up to us, I instantly 
 knew that he was a deserter. When at a short distance he 
 halted, took off his shako, and waved his hand. One of our 
 visiting patrols happening to pass at the time, I desired 
 the sergeant to send a man dovvn to him, who accord- 
 ingly descended, and brought him up, arm in arm, in a most 
 brotherly manner. He proved to be a German. He told me 
 that he had deserted with the intention of entering our service, 
 as he had a brother in the Hussars of the German Legion, 
 which, he inulerstood, were then lying at no great distance, 
 which proved to be the case. He took an anxious look down 
 the hill, and exclaimed, " yl t7; .' niein U^srl ! mcin EsrI!" I 
 
215 
 
 asked him if he wouhl like to liave his ass, because wo woukl 
 manage to get it for him. He was oveijoyed at the pro])osal. 
 I mentioned to tlie patrol liis wislies. They all volunteered 
 to go down to the vineyard for it. This I would not allow, but 
 ordered one man to try if he could bring it oil', Mliich he did 
 in a very short time, absolutely bringing it oil' from the pre- 
 cincts of the French camp in triiini[)h. Our new friend in 
 an ecstasy of joy kissed and caressed his ]jrute comj)anion. 
 Perhaps fearing that he would not be allowed to keep his ass, 
 he seemed very anxious to dispose of him immediately, and 
 began praising him and describing his excellent qualities. I 
 pointed to a large lump on one of his legs. " Ach ! (^r^« ii^f 
 nichts, class ist nichts," he said, "He is a line aninud." T 
 however told him that he and his iuiimal must proceed with- 
 out delay to the headquarters of the division, as no person 
 was allowed to purchase anything from a deserter until after 
 he had been reported, but that afterwards he would no doubt 
 be permitted to sell Ins ass. He seemed quite satisfied witli 
 this assurance, and mounting his dapple friend, rode off under 
 escort of the patrol, 
 
 Massena first became aware of the lines of Torres Vednts 
 on the 10th October. When he found how strongly we were 
 posted, he retreated after it was dark, and did not mtdce an 
 onward movement for some days. .Several skirmishes and 
 affairs of outposts took place, but the French marshal seemed 
 to think us too strongly posted to be attacked with any \nvs- 
 pect of success. On the 22nd October, a camp was formed 
 at St. Jago dos Velhos, and sve used to go to the lines every 
 morning. Massena remained for more than a month in front 
 of our position. His army sullered very much from sickness 
 and want of provisions, as the country people had either 
 destroyed or carried oil' in their ilight all the necessaries of 
 life. On the 14th November, the Freueh army broke u}i, and 
 entered into cantonments between .Santarem and Thomar. 
 Our army also went into cantonments at Alcoentre, JJio 
 ]Mayor, A/embuja, Alencpier, and Villa Franca, and our liead- 
 quarters were established at Cartaxo. Tiie second division 
 
216 
 
 under General Hill crossed the Tagiis on the 18th November, 
 and occupied the villages of Barcos, Chamusca, and Caregiro. 
 During the remainder of the year both armies remained quiet 
 in their cantoimients, and few occurrences of any moment 
 took place. We were pretty well supplied with provisions, 
 having the connnand of the sea, but the Frencli were reduced 
 to great straits, which gave rise to a saying common in their 
 camp : " Pour etre soldat Fran(;ais il taut avoir le ventre d'un 
 pou et le coeur d'un lion " — a French soldier should have the 
 belly of a louse and the heart of a lion. Another of their 
 sayings was : " La guerre en Espagne est la fortune des 
 generaux, la ruin des officiers, et le tombeau des soldats " — 
 the war in Spain is the fortune of the generals, the ruin of 
 the officers, and the grave of the soldiers. 
 
 One evening, the 13th May, 1811, during the first siege of 
 Badajos, it being our turn for duty in the trenches, we marched 
 about sunset from our encampment towards the town, where 
 we could observe numbers of people and many ladies on the 
 tops of the houses looking at us. The gallant Sir John 
 Hamilton happened to be the general of the day, and Don 
 Don Carlos Oailos d'Espagua, commanding the Spanish troops, 
 ^ege of was also to give a contingent that night for the works. 
 Badajos. "Wliile wc wcrc halted under cover of some heights 
 waiting for their conjunction, it came on to rain, and blew 
 very hard. Ou the arrival of the Don, who understood 
 English very well, and after the necessary dispositions had 
 been arranged, our distinguished General proceeded to give 
 his orders to the commanding officers assembled round him, 
 in his wonted cool, decided, and off-hand way. They were 
 nearly as follows : — " We are going to open the trenches to- 
 night within three hundred yards of the walls of Badajos ; 
 the ground is perfectly plain, there will be no cover; the 
 utmost silence must be preserved, and no firing must on any 
 account be permitted. The wind and rain are in the enemy's 
 favour — they will come out — they will mix with you — they 
 
 will fire upon you, but let them fire and be d d." The 
 
 foresight of our experienced General proved correct ; all his 
 
217 
 
 anticipations were realised, and his orders were strictly 
 obeyed. To have returned the enemy's tire would have dis- 
 covered us, and have pointed out to them where to make a 
 sortie. After giving these orders, the General, turning round 
 to Don Carlos, and addressing him in his u.sual good-humoured 
 manner, said: "Now, Don Carlos, whether would you 
 rather be flirting witli the pretty signoritas in.side, or be 
 opening the trenches outside, in this dark and stormy night?" 
 Don Carlos, whose gallantry was well known, whether in 
 devotion to the sex or to his country, modestly replied that 
 he certainly was very desirous to enjoy the gay society of the 
 ladies, but, as the only chance of being able to lay siege to 
 the fair ones within was to carry on the siege vigorously 
 from without, he would at present prefer the latter, and he 
 felt confident that, by our united efforts, we should not 
 only win the town, but also the hearts of his fair country- 
 women, who were sincere admirers of those who, by noble 
 achievements, rendered themselves worthy of their esteem. 
 
 The two brave connnanders shook hands. We pushed on 
 close under the castle, anil, under protection of some com- 
 panies, who crept on as covering parties, our men began to 
 dig — yes ! many, perhaps, their own graves ! 
 
 We marched in silence to within five hundred yards of 
 the walls of Dadajos ; covering parties were sent on in front. 
 The men piled arms, took off their knapsacks, &c., and were 
 extended at arm's length from one another. One man got a 
 spade, another a pickaxe, and we stole on to within three 
 hundred yards of the walls. The engineers directed the men 
 to dig a trench, and to throw up the earth towards the town. 
 In an hour or two the men got the trench so far forward as to 
 afford some cover. The enemy began to discover our where- 
 abouts and w^uit we were doing. They commenced throwing 
 fire-balls and blue lights. Our men were ordered to throw 
 themselves flat on the ground, so that no shadow of them 
 could be seen. The engineers were urging the men to work 
 hard, as they expected a terrible fire to be shortly opened 
 upon us, but to our surprise we were ordered to leave off 
 
218 
 
 and to return in great silence. We learned that Marshal 
 Soult was rapidly advancing to attack our army, and we 
 received orders to join our army under Marshal Beresford at 
 Albuera. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 15th May, 1811, after a long 
 Kith Mny, luarch, the English army took up their ground on 
 iiattiTof the heights in rear of Albuera ; but, as the Spanish 
 Aibuom. army had not arrived, CJeneral Houghton's brigade, 
 consisting of the 29th, 57th, and 1st battalion of the 48th 
 Regiment, was moved to the right and formed en potence. 
 Tlie Spaniards having come up during the night, our brigade, 
 after standing some hours under arms, was ordered, about 
 six or seven o'clock on the morning of the 16th, to resume 
 its place in the line. We had scarcely time to get a little tea 
 and a morsel of biscuit, when the alarm was given — " Stand 
 to your arms ! The French are advancing." 
 
 We accordingly instantly got under arms, leaving tents 
 and baggage to be disposed of as the quartermaster and bat- 
 men best could. We moved forward in line to crown the 
 heights in front, which were intended for our position, and 
 which may be shortly described as follows. The rivulet of 
 Albuera ran nearly parallel to the front of the heights, at 
 about six hundred yards' distance, which sloped down to it, 
 these being perfectly open for all arms ; but beyond our right 
 they swelled into steeper and more detached ones. The 
 village of Albuera was nearly opposite the centre of our lino, 
 and on the same side of the water ; at which point was the 
 only bridge. The banks of the rivulet were at some places 
 steep and abrupt. On the opposite, or French side, they 
 were rather low, and the ground Hat and open for some little 
 distance ; then gradually rose to a gentle height, covered with 
 wood, particularly at some distance from the bridge up the 
 river, where the French army lay concealed from our view, 
 they having only some detached parties of cavalry in the 
 open ground. 
 
 In occupying the position the army was formed as 
 follows : — The I'ortuguese, in blue, ou the left; the English, in 
 
219 
 
 vcd in the centre — viz., Cicneral Houghton's brigade, the 2(ltli, 
 aTth, and 1st battalion of the 48th Regiment; General 
 Luniley's, 28th, ;3'.)th, and :Utli Regiments; Coh)nel Colbourn'a, 
 the lird, the 2nd battalion of the 48th, the GGth, and 31st 
 Regiments; and the Spaniards, in yellow or other bright 
 colours, formed the right. The whole were drawn up as for a 
 grand parade, in full view of the enemy, so that Soult could 
 see almost every n)an, and he was also enabled to choose his 
 point of attack ; which would not have been the case if we 
 had been kept under cover a few yards farther back, behind 
 the crest of the heiglits, or had been made to lie down, as we 
 used to do under the Duke of Wellington. That part of the 
 4th Division under 8ir Lowry Cole, which had just arrived 
 from BadajoS; were posted in second line in our rear. 
 
 Before we had time to halt in our position, we observed 
 two large columns of the enemy, supported by cavalry and 
 artillery, moving towards the bridge and village of Albuera, 
 which was occupied by the light corps of the German Legion 
 under Colonel Racket. The first attack here conunenced, 
 under cover of a heavy cannonade, upon the village and our 
 line in its rear. The Germans made a gallant defence, and 
 maintained their post ; but as the enemy apparently seemed 
 to make a push at this point, Colbourn's brigade was ordered 
 to move down in support of the troops in the village. 
 
 Soult must have been much delighted on observing this 
 movement : it, no doubt, was precisely what he most wished ; 
 because the colunuis which appeared to threaten the village 
 and our line was only a ruse to distract our attention and 
 neutralise the English force which he most dreaded. Our 
 skilful adversary was, in the meantime, throwing his masses 
 directl}'- across our right flank, or Spanish army, which ex- 
 tended to a great distance from us ; and it was with no small 
 surprise that we most unexpectedly heard a sharp fire com- 
 mence in that quarter. The error our chief had been led into 
 now became evident. We were suddenly thrown into open 
 column, and moved rapidly along the heights to our right 
 flank for nearly a mile under a tremendous cannonade, for 
 
220 
 
 the French had already established themselves on some com- 
 manding heights, which raked us ns we advanced, Captain 
 Humphrey and several men being killed. They were, at the 
 same time, attacking the Spaniards with great vigour, having 
 put them into some confusion when in the act of throwing 
 back their right to meet this tlank attack. Colbourn's 
 brigade also, which had moved to cover the village, as stated 
 above, iiad been recalled and brought up in a hasty manner 
 in column, obliquing to their right towards the heights now 
 occupied by the enemy, and formed line at a right angle 
 perpendicular to the first position. It has been understood 
 that Colonel Coll)ourn wished to move to the attack with the 
 two flank regiments in quarter distance columns, and the two 
 centre ones in one line; but Sir William Stewart, anxious to 
 show a large front, was deploying the whole. The 3rd, 48th, 
 and G6th Eegiments were in line, and the 31st Eegiment still 
 in column ; when a body of French Lancers, taking advantage 
 of the thick weather and heavy showers of rain, got round 
 the right of this brigade, made a dash from the rear through 
 those regiments which were in line, broke them, and swept 
 off the greater part as prisoners into the French lines. The 
 31st Regiment stood firm, and fortunately escaped the 
 disaster ; and the Spaniards continued with some difficulty to 
 hold their ground. Just as this misfortune had occurred ouv 
 brigade came up, the 29th leading. We closed up into 
 quarter distance columns under cover of the heights and 
 deployed ; but before the 57th and 48th Eegiments had 
 coinpleted the formation, a body of Spaniards in advance of 
 our left flank gave way, and in making off ran in our front, 
 and then came rushing back upon us. We called out to them, 
 urging them to rally and maintain their ground, and that we 
 would shortly relieve them. 
 
 On these assurances, with the exertions of some of the 
 officers and of our Adjutant, who rode amongst them, they 
 did rally, and moved up the hill again, but very shortly after- 
 wards down they came again in the utmost confusion — 
 mixed pell-mell with a body of the enemy's Lancers, who 
 
221 
 
 were thrusting and cutting without mercy. Many of the 
 SjJuniiU'ds throw thoniselvos on tliu grouml, others atteinpted 
 to gut through our lino, but this (.ould not bo porniittod, 
 bcciiurio wo being in lino on the sUipe ol' a bare green liill, 
 and such a rush ot" friends and foes conung down upon ns, 
 any opening nuule to let the former pass would have admitted 
 the enemy also. Wo had no alternative left but to stand 
 (inn, and in self-defence to liio on both. This shortly decided 
 the business ; the Lancers bwaight up and made the best of 
 their way back to their own lines, and the Spaniards were 
 permitted to pass to the rear. 
 
 The i'oruuition of our brigade being now completed, and 
 Lumley's brigade having taken post on the left, and all 
 being now ready for the attack, Sir William Stewart rode up 
 to our brigade, and after a few energetic words, saiil, " Now 
 is the time — let us give three cheers ! " This was instantly 
 done with heart and soul, every cap waving in the air. We 
 immediately advanced up the hill under a sharp fire from 
 the enemy's light troops, which we did not condescend to 
 return, and they retreated as we moved on. On arriving at 
 the crest of the height we discovered the enemy a little in 
 rear of it, apparently formed in masses, or cohunns of grand 
 divisions, with light troops and artillery in the intervals 
 between them. From the waving and rising of the ground 
 on which some of these stood, the throe or four front ranks 
 in some cases could fire over the heads of one another, and 
 some guns were posted on a baidc and fired over one of these 
 columns. Notwitstanding this I'ormidable array, onr line 
 went close up to the enemy, without even a piece of artillery 
 to support us ; at least near us there were none. We 
 understood that the nine-pounder brigade had been withdrawn 
 in consequence of the disaster above related. On the other 
 hand, Soult has since stated that he had forty pieces of cannon 
 vomiting death at this point. The 21)th llegiment being on 
 the right of this line, its flank was ai Vair and completely 
 exposed without any strong point to rest upon, while the 
 Fusilier and Portuguese brigades of the fourth division, which 
 
222 
 
 had also been brought up to the new front, were a considerable 
 way to our riglit on the plain below. 
 
 This was the nioinent at whicli tlio murderous and 
 desperate liattle really began. A most overwhelming fire 
 of artillery and small arms was opened upon us, which was 
 vigorously returned. There we unflinchingly stood, and 
 there we fell: our ranks were at some places swept away 
 by sections. This dreadful contest had continued for some 
 time, when an officer of artillery — T believe a German — came 
 up and said he had brought two or three guns, but that he 
 could find no one to give him orders, our superior ofticers 
 being all wounded or killed. It was suggested that he could 
 not do wrong in opening directly on the enemy, which was 
 accordingly done. Our line at length became so reduced 
 that it resembled a chain of skirmishers in extended order ; 
 while, from the necessity of closing in towards the colours, 
 and our numbers fast diminishing, our right flank became 
 still further exposed. The enemy, however, did not avail 
 himself of the advantage which this circumstance might have 
 afforded him. 
 
 We continued to maintain this unprecedented conflict 
 with unabated energy. The enemy, notwitstanding his 
 superiority of numbers, had not obtained one inch of g'.ound, 
 but, on the contrary, we were gaining on him, when the 
 gallant Fusilier biigade was moved up from the plain, bringing 
 their right shoulders forward. They thus took the enemy 
 obliquely in flank, who, although already much shattered, 
 still continued to make a brave resistance ; but nothing could 
 withstand the invincible and undaunted bravery of the 
 British soldiers. The enemy's masses, after a desperate 
 struggle for victory, gave way at all points, and were driven 
 in disorder beyond the rivulet, leaving us triumphant masters 
 of the field. 
 
 To the credit of the troops engaged it ought to be recol- 
 lected that, in all other battles fought either before or 
 afterwards in the Peninsula, our gallant army, under a 
 skilful connnander, had only either to inarch up to the enemy 
 
223 
 
 or to await his attack, and that after a conflict of tnorc or less 
 duration tlie victory was won ; but in this terrible contest, 
 error, confusion, and misfortune attended our first disposition. 
 Victor}' had to be retrieved from a brave and experienced foe, 
 under many untoward and disheartening circumstances, and 
 it seems universally agreed that the annals of war scarcely 
 afford an instance of so bloody a battle having ever been 
 fought in proportion to the numbers engaged. 
 
 Mustering the living and recording the dead became after- 
 wards our melancholy dut3^ On reckoning our numbers, the 
 29th Regiment had only ninty-six men, two captains, and a 
 few subalterns remaining out of the whole regiment ; the 
 57th Eegiment had but a few more, and were commanded 
 out of action by the Ad,iitant ; the first battalion of the 48th 
 Kegiment suffered in like manner: not a man of the brigade 
 was prisoner; not a colour was lost, although an eloquent 
 historian most unwarrantably stated that the 57th had lost 
 theirs. The 57th lose their colours ! — never ! Major-General 
 Houghton, commanding the brigade, and Lieutenant-Colonel 
 Duckworth of the 48th Ivcgiment were killed ; Lieutenant- 
 Colonel White of the 29th liegiment mortally wounded ; 
 Colonel Inglis of the 57t]i and Major Way of the 29th lie<d- 
 nients were very severely wounded. In fact, every field- 
 officer of the whole brigade was either killed or wounded, so 
 that at the close of the action the brigade remained in com- 
 mand of a cajitain of the 48th Regiment, and, singular enough, 
 that captain was a Frenchman, named Cemeti^re (cemetery). 
 
 The field afterwards presented a sad spectacle, our men 
 lying generally in rows and the French in large heaps, from 
 their having fought princii)ally in nias.ses, they not having 
 dared to deploy, as they afterwards told us, from a dread of 
 our cavalry, as they su^jposed that we would not have ven- 
 tured to act in such an open country without a great superi- 
 ority in tliat description of force. 
 
 Tlie French were driven in such confusion from the field 
 that their brigades and regiments lost all order and were 
 completely mixed, so that numbers of our men and several of 
 
224 
 
 the officers who had been taken prisoners made their escape 
 out of the enemy's bivouac during the night, and many 
 deserters came over; but notwithstaniling their great disorder, 
 which must have been known to our chief, we remained all 
 the next day looking at one another, while the enemy was 
 actively employed in reorganising his shattered forces. It 
 struck many people that if only a demonstration of advanc- 
 ing had been made even on the following morning, their total 
 rout would have been complete, because General Hamilton's 
 division of Portuguese were still almost entire, nor had 
 Hacket's fine corps, or even Lumley's brigade, or our cavalry 
 been rendered unserviceable, and the remaining part of the 
 4th division, which had been detained at Badajos, were 
 momentarily expected to arrive, exclusive of the Spanish 
 army. On the third day, even after the enemy had recovered 
 his order, as soon as he observed that we were about to ad- 
 vance, he immediately commenced his retreat without offering 
 the smallest resistance. 
 
 Some affecting incidents which occurred on this memor- 
 able occasion may not prove uninteresting. 
 
 When in our f'rst position Major-Oeneral Houghton was 
 on horseback in front of the line, in a green frock-coat, which 
 he had put on in the hurry of turning out. Some time after- 
 wards his servant rode up to him with his red uniform coat, 
 and without dismounting he immediately stripped off the 
 gveen and put on the red one. It may be said that this 
 public display of our national colour a:id of British coolness 
 actually was done under a salute of French artillery, as they 
 were cannonading us at the time. 
 
 There had been a general court-martial held some time 
 previous to the action. The prisoner, Lieutenant Ansaldo, 
 was found guilty and sentenced to be suspended for six 
 montiis. He, however, instead of quitting his corps during 
 that period, remainetl with the army, and gallantly went into 
 action by the side of his prosecutor. They both fell ; and 
 what is still more extraordinary, the president. General 
 Houghton, the Judge-Advocate, Captain Binning, C6th liegi- 
 
225 
 
 ment, and many of the members and witnesses were also 
 killed and were almost all of them entombed near the same spot. 
 
 A few days after the battle five regiments who suffered 
 most were embodied into one, forming a provisional battalion 
 — viz., the 3rd Kegiment, one company ; the 66th, one com- 
 pany; the 29th, two companies; the 57th, three; and the 31st 
 three companies, placed under the command of Lieutenant- 
 Colonel L'Estrange of the 31st Regiment. 
 
 The Duke of Wellington, on hearing of Soult's advance, 
 used the utmost possible exertions to come up, and to have 
 commanded in person. He arrived the second day after the 
 action, unfortunately too late. Some days afterwards, I have 
 been told, his Grace, while inspecting the hospitals at Elvas, 
 said to some of our men — " Oh ! old 29th, I am sorry to see 
 so many of you here ! " They instantly replied — " Oh ! my 
 Lord, if you had only been with us, there would not have 
 been so many of us here!" — so implicit was the confidence 
 of even the humblest individuals in this great man. 
 
 On I'cferring to the United Service Journal of June, 1832, 
 I find a communication from the gallant ISir William Inglis 
 on the subject of Albuera, in which he has perfectly estab- 
 lished the cool and steady conduct of our brave old comrades, 
 the 57th Regiment ; but as it might be inferred from the 
 complaint then made by a Spanish officer to him, that the 
 Spaniards had been wantonly fired upon, I believe that the 
 above account of the operations of General Houghton's 
 brigade, which suffered such immense loss on that day, will 
 suflficiently prove that the 29th Regiment did not fire on the 
 Spaniards without necessity, and that under the circumstances 
 in which they were then placed they were perfectly justified 
 in so doing. Sir William Inglis has since informed me that 
 he was not aware of the facts at the time above mentioned. 
 
 The 29th, 85th, and 97th having suffered very severely in 
 the recent campaign, were ordered to England to 29th uegi- 
 recruit in October, 1811. In the general orders 3rdere(ito 
 issued by the Duke of Wellington, dated Adjutant- rocnnt. 
 General's office, 3rd October, 1811, is the following: — oriicrs. 
 
 15 
 
22() 
 
 " The Commander of the Forces has received orders from 
 the Commander-in-Chief to send to England the 29th, 85th, 
 and 97tli Regiments. Those regiments have all been dis- 
 tinguished, particularly the 29th Regiment, who have been 
 with the army so long. 
 
 " The 29th Regiment landed with the army three years 
 ago, and they have been distinguished in every action that 
 has been fought in that period. 
 
 " The Commander of the Forces is happy to add tliat the 
 conduct of these troops has been equally regular in can- 
 tonment and camp, as it has been gallant in the field. 
 
 " Under these circumstances, the Commander of the Forces 
 parts with these regiments with regret, but the events of the 
 war and the ditferent actions in which they have been en- 
 gaged, having greatly reduced their numbers, the only chance 
 of recruiting them is to send them to England. 
 
 " (Signed) C. STEWART, 
 
 '^ Major-General, Adjutant-Ocncral." 
 
 Division order?, by Lieutenant-General Sir Rowland Hill, 
 commanding the second division, dated — 
 
 " PoiiTALEGRE, 7th Octohcr, ISll. 
 
 " Considering the length of time which the 29th Regiment 
 has been under his orders, and the distinguished manner in 
 which it has uniformly conducted itself, as testified in the 
 general orders of the Commander of the Forces of the 3rd 
 October, Lieutenant-General Hill cannot allow it to quit the 
 second division of infantry without expressing to it his 
 warmest approbation and thanks for their good conduct, and 
 his regret at being deprived of their services. 
 
 " (Signed) J. C. ROOK, 
 
 " Lt. Colonel, A.-AdjiUaut-Ocncral." 
 
 Battalion order by Lieutenant-Colonel L'Estrange, com- 
 manding Provisional Battalion, dated — 
 
 "Ca.stemo Buanco, 4lh October, 1811. 
 " The 29th regiment being ordered for England, Lieutenant- 
 
227 
 
 Colonel L'KstrangG cannot take leave of them without testi- 
 fying his entire satisfaction in the manner which they have 
 conducted themselves whilst under his command. 
 
 " If his approbation can be considered as a great satisfaction 
 by a corps which has distinguished itself on every occasion, he 
 is happy in taking tliis opportunity of expressing it, as well 
 as his regret at its removal from the Provisional Kattalion." 
 
 On the 2nd November, 1811, the 29th Eegiment em- 
 barked on board the Ar/incouri, 64, commanded by Kmbaru for 
 Captain Kent, Il.N. We had also on board five ^'''^^'"^^ 
 companies of tlie 8oth Eegiment, and about a hundred 
 Germans, who had deserted from the French ai-iny, and were 
 now returning to their own country at the expense of the Eng- 
 lish government. These men were formed into a company 
 and placed under my command, as being senior subaltern on 
 board, and this saved me from the unpleasant duty of keep- 
 ing watch. The vessel was old, and the weather rather 
 boisterous, but our Captain told us to be under no apprehen- 
 sion, as he had been sixty years at sea, and never had been in a 
 storm. He had a pet, an old gander, which walked The 
 
 11 • 1 1 • Till 1 • captain's 
 
 the quarter-deck with him, and had been Ins compa- gander. 
 nion in several vessels, and nearly as long at sea as himself. 
 
 We left the Tagus on the 6th November, reached Ports- 
 moutli on the 1st December, and disembarked next day. 
 We immediately marched to Havant, liaving received orders 
 to proceed to Steyning barracks in Sussex. Major Tod 
 Nestor, who had been badly wounded, and myself, got leave 
 to travel at our leisure. AVe agreed to post it. While 
 changing horses at Havant I went in to warm myself. A 
 person sitting in the room said, " Pray, sir, excuse me, but I 
 am anxious to know if there is a soldier of the name of 
 Saunders still in your regiment. A deed for £500 was sent 
 to him for his signature, and not hearing from him we 
 supposed that he was killed and the bond lost." I replied 
 that the man was not only alive, but was actually coming 
 into the place, as we passed him on the road, he being in the 
 rear-guard. The person started up as if he had been shot, 
 
228 
 
 exclaiming, " He is my brother ! " and ran off in the direction 
 to meet the troops entering,'.* 
 
 In consequence of their gallant conduct in the Peninsula, 
 the 29th Regiment soon afterwards had the honour of being 
 ordered to Windsor to do duty over His Majesty George the 
 Third. Their entry was quite a triumphal march. All the 
 people came out to receive them, barrels of ale were presented 
 to the soldiers, and the officers were feted by all ranks, and the 
 regimental horse "Black Jack" was a great object of curiosity. 
 
 I got leave of absence, and returned to my home after an 
 absence of nearly five years, the whole of which had been 
 spent in active service by sea and land. I left London for 
 Scotland by the mail on the 25th December. On the 
 following day, somewhere in Yorkshire, a primitive, good- 
 Tho officer lookiug Quakcress came into the coach. In the 
 Quakeress, coursc of convcrsatiou she happened to find out 
 that I was a military man, and very earnestly asked me, 
 " Friend, hast thou resigned thy profession ? " I replied, 
 " Certainly not ". She assured me that the time was about 
 to arrive when the swords of men would be turned into 
 ploughshares, in fact, that all the world was to become of her 
 religion, and live as friends and brotliers. I agreed with her 
 that war was a terrible scourge, but on my adding that as 
 the world now existed wars were necessary evils, and at all 
 events a defensive war against a foreign invader, like the 
 Spanish war, was justifiable on every principle of common 
 reason, she denied even this. But on my saying to her, 
 " Suppose you were sitting at your own fireside, and that 
 some vagrants were to come in and snatch up your plate 
 from your sideboard, would you not make some resistance ? " 
 " Friend," said she, " I would rebuke them." I answered, 
 " Such loose characters would laugh at you, and take your all 
 
 * During the march some fine pigs happened to pass, and a soldier re- 
 marked to his comrade, " My eyes, .Tack, them's fine pigs ! " Tliis remark 
 being overheard by a patriotic bystander, he exclaimed, " Pigs ! — would you 
 like pigs ? " and there and then bought them for the men, and the regiment 
 continued its march, driving, not prisoners, but — pigs before (or after) it. 
 
229 
 
 if you did not take some measures to prevent them ". This 
 puzzled her ; she was at a loss for an answer, so tliat I nearly 
 convinced her that the Quaker principle of non-resistance, 
 however amiable for individuals, con' ^ not be adopted by 
 ordinary mankind such as compost he majority in the 
 world. 
 
 On the 1st January, 1812, T arrived in Edinburgh during 
 a horrid riot in which several people were killed. 
 
 On my appearance in Edinburgh in a braided peliss frock- 
 coat, fancy vest with silver Spanish buttons, and a forage 
 cap, which had been our usual morning-dress with the army, 
 I astonished the natives of Modern Athens. So great was 
 the curiosity to see the first specimen of a Peninsula costume, 
 that my friends, the Countess of Buchan and Lady Helen 
 Hall, insisted on my appearing at their parties in what 
 appeared to all an extraordinary dress, nay, in attending a 
 public assembly in my proper uniform of the 29th Regiment, 
 so much had the people taken it into their heads that I was 
 a foreign count, I was absolutely mobbed by all the ladies 
 in the ball-room. An old and worthy General addressed me 
 after introducing himself, and hoped I was pleased with the 
 appearance of his countrywomen. He added that I was 
 lucky in being a prisoner in England, for that when he in 
 his youth had been taken by the Spaniards, he had been 
 kept a close prisoner. I was ill-natured enough to enter 
 into his humour, and maintained the deception for some time, 
 but he was really mortified when he afterwards found out 
 that I was a Scotchman. 
 
 I got charge of a recruiting party at Aberdeen, and 
 succeeded in getting numbers of excellent men ; indeed, in 
 credit to the Scotch, it is worthy of being noted that although 
 the 29th was an English regiment, the majority of its best 
 non-commissioned officers were Scotch, and of five sergeants 
 who got commissions for good conduct in the field, two were 
 from Aberdeen. 
 
PAET IV.-1812-13. 
 
 Major-Genekal David Leslie, brother of the Earl of Leven 
 and Melville, then commanded at Aberdeen ; and many county 
 families living in the town, we had a gay winter, many balls, 
 dinners and supper parties being given. 
 
 The regiment continued at Windsor, and was fast filling 
 up with recruits and volunteers from the militia, and received 
 the greatest marks of honour from the Queen and all the 
 members of the Eoyal family. So high was the character 
 of the regiment, that from one militia regiment alone 
 sufficient men came to have laid the foundation of a second 
 battalion, but owing to the drummers of the 29th being all 
 black, some mischievous person posted a placard asking, 
 
 "Who would be flogged by a black ?" The men retracted. 
 
 and I lost for the moment my chance of a company. 
 
 Having completed its numbers, the corps, in February, 
 February, 1813, received orders to hold themselves in readiness 
 
 1813.— 29th ..,.,, 1 . 1 -r. . -1 1 
 
 Regiment to reioui thcir old comrades ni the Peninsula ; but 
 
 recruited, 
 
 and ordered government, Considering; that the men were nearly 
 
 to the es J o j 
 
 Peninsula, all rccruits, or very young hands, many still in their 
 militia uniform, and not thinking it just to send a corps 
 who had earned a gallant reputation into the field until 
 more completely organised, changed our destination, and 
 ordered us to do duty at Cadiz, much to the mortification of 
 all ranks, particularly the officers. 
 
 I left Aberdeen on the 7th February, 1813. At Montrose 
 a person opened the coach door, it being dark, saying, " Weel, 
 are ye a' fu ? " meaning to inquire if the coach was full. It 
 might have been taken to mean, "Are you all drunk?" In 
 he came, and immediately announced that although he liad 
 
231 
 
 been studying divinity, the glorious despatches frae the Penin- 
 sula describing battles, sieges, storms, wounds, death pivinity v. 
 and glory, had inspired him with a thirst for ^'"'• 
 military fame, and he was going to volunteer his services for 
 his country's cause. I asked him some home questions, and 
 let him into some of the mysteries of a military life in the 
 field, which he had never even dreamed of or taken into con- 
 sideration before. This seemed to stagger his warlike pro- 
 pensities. Poor fellow ! when we were seizing a mouthful of 
 supper, he said he could not partake, but if we would allow 
 him he would take a potato. He was in the act of putting 
 it to his mouth, when a wag called out, "There is the 
 waiter, if he sees you he will charge you for the whole 
 supper ". 
 
 On the 10th February I set out for London, and arrived 
 there on the 13th. I found that the regiment had already 
 embarked at Portsmouth. I consequently, although I had 
 been awake the whole of the two previous nights, set out in 
 the evening to join it. It proved a drenching night of rain, 
 and, as is usual on occasions of troops embarking, so many 
 were going that I could not get an inside place iu the 
 coach. 
 
 Cold and stiff, I reached Portsmouth on the 14th February, 
 1813, The weather was most tempestuous and the wind dead 
 against us, so that many of us remained at the George Hotel 
 on shore. On the 10th March we sailed with a large convoy 
 of vessels of every sort. The vessel in charge was a beautiful 
 ship of immense lengtli, with flush deck. She was destined 
 for the American station. When most of the fleet were carry- 
 ing a press of sail she had no canvas at all, except her main- 
 top sails. The Americans in England had got a plan of her, 
 which they sent to their country before her arrival, and an 
 attempt was then made to blow her up by a torpedo. 
 
 The 17th March being St. Patrick's Day, and several of 
 the othcers being Irish, daybreak was ushered in by " St. 
 Patrick's Day in the Morning," and we had a jollifica- 
 tion. 
 
232 
 
 On the 21st Marcli, 1813, we arrived at Cadiz. The regi- 
 20th Kegi- ment was disembarked and marched to the Isle of 
 at Cadiz. Lcon, and quartered in the Gallineras Barracks, 
 
 Lieutonaut , . , . i • i 
 
 Leslie joins eroctcd uv US duiui}' tlie siece, on some hemhts near 
 
 the Uorin.iii '' n o > o 
 
 Legion. the town. 
 
 Cadiz is a remarkably pretty, neat town. The great 
 Spanish dockyards, naval acndoniy, and all the main depart- 
 ments are here establisliod. It is an island in a sort of island, 
 being separated from the mainland by an extensive swampy 
 marsh, through which runs a narrow branch of the sea called 
 the Rio of San Pietro. The French held the opposite side of 
 the marsh during the siege, and had batteries all along it. A 
 town which has since been named San Fernando is joined to 
 Cadiz by a narrow, low strip of sand about eiglit miles long, 
 where there is a capital road raised about six feet above iiigh- 
 water mark. 
 
 There was at Cadiz a battalion composed of Germans, who 
 had been forced into the French service as conscripts, and had 
 come over to us. They were formed into a provisional batta- 
 lion, and officered from different regiments in the garrison, 
 each getting a temporary step of rank. It had served during 
 the whole of the siege, having been quartered at the Aquada. 
 The 29th Regiment was ordered to furnish five officers for this 
 battalion. Our commanding officer. Sir G. Way, on making 
 this known to us, said he did not wish to order any officer to 
 leave his own corps, and, therefore, he begged that those who 
 had an inclination to go would give in their names. I saw 
 that there was a probable opportunity of making a lucky hit. 
 I immediately gave in my name. At the same time I received 
 a kind promise from the Colonel, that he would strongly 
 recommend me for a company. Four others also gave in their 
 names. 
 
 I then left my old corps, the 29th Regiment, On joining 
 the provisional battalion at Cadiz, I instantly got command 
 of a company of about 120 strong. The men were supposed 
 to be all Germans, but many entered as such were French, 
 Italian, or Poles. They were a remarkably well-conducted 
 
233 
 
 set of men, no (Irunknrds or irllers. The generality of them 
 were always employed, wlien off duty, in making fancy-work 
 of all descriptions, carving in bone, plaiting hair-chains, &c., 
 repairing watches, making busts. They had great power in 
 acquiring languages. My servant, although a (Jerman, t.alked 
 French, Spanish, and Italian, and English at last, remarkably 
 well. He had been servant to a French General who was 
 killed at Barossa, He and many others had been in several 
 engagements, fighting against us, when the 29tli Eegiment 
 had been engaged. Sir George Cook commanded at Cadiz, 
 and froni him and his excellent staff I experienced many kind 
 attentions. 
 
 Cadiz was at this period one of the gayest places in 
 Europe. Soiilt had been obliged to abandon the Gnioticsat 
 siege. It was the seat of government. The llegent, ^*'**^' 
 the Cardinal of Bourbon, the Cortes, all the foreign ambas- 
 sadors, and many noble English families, the whole Continent 
 being shut against English travellers, were here. All 
 the notables of Spain, with their families, had taken refuge 
 here, and all the votaries of fashion resorted to this city, so 
 that the place was very animated. Our ambassador, Sir H. 
 Wellesley, from the nature of our alliance with the Spaniards, 
 had great sway, and was the leading authority. He used to 
 give frequent dinners, and most splendid balls and suppers, 
 but withal, he was plain in his manners and dress. To the 
 astonishment of the Spanish ladies, he wore nankeen trousers 
 and cotton stockings. I used frequently to attend the sittings 
 of the Cortes. The house of assembly was elegantly fitted up 
 with three rows of mahogany seats and desks, in an oval 
 form, and the debates, in the sonorous Spanish language, had 
 a fine effect from the warmth and energy of the speakers. 
 
 I found Cadiz particularly agreeable, as some friends of 
 our family had been long settled here, and at Xeres, a few 
 leagues off. Don Arturo Gordon was a fine hale old gentle- 
 man, although nearly ninety years of age, and his wife was 
 equally active. They were most hospitable. I found 
 their house a home indeed. Many other gentlemen kept 
 
2U 
 
 almost o])on house. T liave (lined iit the table of a Scotch 
 friend, who was in partnership with an Italian gentleman, 
 where the most of the plate was of solid gold, and at many 
 places I was expected to dine once or twice a week. 
 
 We had here free access to Spanish society. There were 
 five or six houses open every night, where grand tertulias 
 were held. A friend had only to present you to the lady, who 
 immediately cordially said, " £lst(t casa da a la disposition de 
 usted" and you had ever afterwards a free entree. At these 
 soirees there is a long saloon where dancing is kept up with 
 great spirit, and another, where a long gambling table is 
 crowded with fashionable males and females, all eagerly 
 engaged in the demoralising amusement ; nay, you might have 
 seen here young misses as busy as the others, and their 
 mammas engaged in the ball-room ; but the society was often 
 rather frugal, which prevented a person playing high, and 
 many persons were admitted who had no reconuuendation or 
 qualification. 
 
 The Alameida generally consists of two or three long 
 walks parallel to each other, all shaded with fine trees, and 
 having marble seats on each side, where the elderly people 
 sit smoking cigars, and exchanging the news of the day, while 
 the young and gay promenade, and bands of nuisic play for 
 the amusement of the people. The Alameida at Cadiz, being 
 on a fortified point which runs into the sea, and commands a 
 beautiful view of the bay, is particularly fine. One enjoys 
 the luxury of a cooling sea breeze. On the Ave Maria tolling 
 all stand up ; a solemn silence prevails ; a few minutes finish 
 the prayer, and all ranks salute one another with, " Good- 
 night". The hum of busy human voices is again heard, and 
 the promenade is resumed. As evening closes the gentlemen 
 invite the parties of ladies to join them in a glass of some 
 cooling drink, in the shops which are fitted up with tables, 
 and look like coffee rooms, where ices, iced water, iced punch, 
 and confections of all kinds were to be had. In compliment, 
 I suppose, to the English, the punch was getting rather too 
 fashionable. After this they usually adjourn to the theatre, 
 
2:^5 
 
 wliich is ft very iicat ono, and at this time all the royul 
 company from Madrid were there. Some of tlie light 
 comedies siu)W(>d a good deal of wit and ready hnnionr. For 
 this they have always a jester, called the Gradoso, or witty 
 fellow, and from the theatre all crowd to conclude the evening 
 at the tertulias of their particular friends. 
 
 The bull fights at Cadiz are the nio.st magnificent in Spain. 
 Tiie I'laea de Toros, or am])hit]u>atre, presents a „„ii 
 splendid appearance when filled with all the l)eauty *"''^'''*- 
 that the country can boast of, in full dress. Its proportions 
 arc fine, and it is like in form to the Colosseum in Home. It 
 has two ornamental strong gateways on each side, the arena 
 is enclosed with a wall about si.\ feet high. Next to this are 
 several rows of benches for those that are particular amateurs 
 of the sport. Then come the boxes, elegantly fitted up for 
 the ladies, and covered in. The back seats and roof are 
 occupied by the common people. The prices are determined 
 not only by the benches, or boxes, but also by sol or somhra, 
 sun or shade. If the bull-fight take place in the afternoon, 
 then the north-west to north-east seats are the dearest, and if 
 it is in the* morning, it is the contrary. 
 
 The proceedings are carried on with great solemnity and 
 regularity. Previous to the commencement, the arena, or 
 interior circle, is filled with the rabble, all engaged in betting. 
 Handbills indicating the breed of bulls, their r( ^fctive 
 colours, and the names of the j;?mf?o?'f.s', the ckulos, iUi i the 
 matadores, whose duty it is to kill the animal, are announced. 
 The performers are all dressed in neat shoes, silk stockings, 
 fancy-coloured silk small clothes and jackets, bedizened with 
 pieces of coin, shoulder knots, and red sashes ; their hair is 
 clubbed in net bags, and they have caps of black velvet. A 
 detachment of troops with a band of music files in, and gets 
 close to the inner wail. At a signal they advance at short 
 stump step, the music playing, and drive everybody before 
 them, so as to clear the arena. It is very amusing to see 
 the imps and urchins giving them the slip and scampering off. 
 
 When the arena is cleared, all the performers enter in a 
 
236 
 
 grand procession, headed by a novello, or young bull. They 
 proceed to the government box, where they respectfully 
 salute, and the young bull is taught to bend on his fore knees. 
 After they have retired, the young bull is put at one of the gate- 
 ways, which is then opened, and the wild animals follow him 
 to the other gate, when each is put into a separate stall, over 
 which there is an opening. Some of the greater beauties are 
 then appointed to place the bows of different coloured ribbon 
 on the shoulders of the several animals to distinguish them. 
 This is done by fastening the bows to a small barbed needle, 
 which is stuck by them on the animal's shoulder. 
 
 On a signal the picadores enter. These men are mounted, 
 and have long strong lances. Their legs and bodies are pro- 
 tected by stuffed leggings and jackets of buff yellowish 
 leather. Their saddles have a high peak before, and a back 
 which rises six or eight inches behind. They post themselves 
 at different distances near the centre of the arena, while 
 several chulos, with coloured silk flags in their hands, stand 
 ready to act as occasion may require to distract the bull's 
 attention. Tiiis is a moment of intense interest. Everyone 
 is wound up to the highest state of expectation. A blast of 
 the trumpet, and the door opens. Out rushes the wild 
 animal, roaring furiously and wildly. On he dashes, perhaps 
 towards a chulo. He looks confounded for an instant, shakes 
 his head, gets a glance of a picadorc, tosses his hinder heels 
 and tail in the air, and away he dashes. The skilful pica- 
 dore, whose keen eye is on the watch, coolly waits for him. 
 Just as the bull stoops to make a rush at him, he manages to 
 get his lance plunged into his neck, which irritates the bull, 
 and will even make him rear on his hind legs. He escapes 
 from this. A chulo runs in his way, shakes his flag, or han- 
 derilla, a barbed dart ornamented with coloured paper flags. 
 The enraged animal makes at him. You think he is anni- 
 hilated, but the nimble chulo leaps right in the air, dropping 
 his bamlerilla on the ground. The astonished animal runs 
 on, and missing his mark, vents his rage on the handcrilla. 
 He may then try another picadorc. W^'ith more caution he 
 
237 
 
 stands staring for an opportunity of attacl<. The picndore 
 keeps his eye on tlie bull's eye. The picadorc nods, and the 
 bull does the same. xVfter some time spent in daring one 
 another, on the bull rushes, and is received as before, but if 
 the picadorc misses his aini, down they come, man and liorse, 
 while the bull vents his rage on the poor animal, goring him 
 in a horrid manner. The cliulo during this scene entices the 
 bull to desist. He will then, perhaps, get in rear of the third 
 picadore, who has not been active enough to get out of his way, 
 or to turn round. He tlien gores the hoise. On the unfor- 
 tunate animal rushes. I have seen the bull thus raise the 
 horse's hind legs from the ground and push him on before 
 him. Sometimes yoa might see the pi^'^^^'^ore riding about, 
 and the horse's entrails trailing on the ground. At trumpet 
 sound the horses are withdrawn, and the chnlos run to face 
 the bull. When he rushes at them, they adroitly fix the 
 darts into each side of his neck, and by leaping either on one 
 side or over his head, escape. The handcrillas have some- 
 times squibs and crackers attnched to them. The moment 
 the darts are fixed in the bull's neck, off go these squibs 
 and crackers, which so bewilders the poor animal that he 
 roars with pain. He has been tormented in the flank at the 
 same time. The last trumpet is sounded, and in walk the 
 maiadores, who are always received with great acclamations, 
 to which they nuike most profound and respectful obeisances 
 all round. The matador is armed with a stout, sharp-pointed, 
 double-edged sword, and a red flag about the size of a large 
 pocket-handkerchief, fastened on one side to a piece of wood. 
 He advances to the bull, holds this before him with his left 
 hand, while with his right he holds the sword pointed over it. 
 The bull stands looking at him for some moments, then 
 dashes right at him. The experienced bravo stands firm, 
 and by a well-directed thrust the sword runs up to the hilt 
 near the shoulder of the noble animal, which instantly drops 
 dead at his feet. The spectators shout, "Viva! Bravo!" &c. 
 Should the matador fail, which is seldom, the ehulos attract 
 the attention of the bull till another opportunity offers of 
 
238 
 
 despatching him. Three lioises, gaily caparisoned, are then 
 introduced, a noose is slipped on to the bull's horns, and he is 
 dragged triumphantly from the arena. Sand is then strewed 
 over the marks of hkjod, and everything is shortly ready for 
 another combat. The same exhibition is repeated until gene- 
 rally six bulls are killed. On particular feast days and grand 
 occasions, figures as large as life, filled with fire-works, per- 
 haps representing Bolera dancers, or guitar players, are placed 
 in the centre of the arena, which attract the bull's attention. 
 He attacks them, and tosses them in the air, when a noise 
 and brilliant explosion take place. 
 
 Should a bull be too tame, and not given to fight, he is 
 proclaimed a coward, and bull-dogs are let loose on him. He 
 tosses some of these, and when others of them pinion him 
 down, a butcher with a round steel comes behind, and by one 
 stab behind the horns deprives him of life. Bull-fighting is 
 certainly a most barbarous and cruel amusement, tending to 
 brutalise the minds of the people. Yet it is a magnificent 
 sight to Ijehold upwards of ten thousand people of all ages, 
 ranks, and of both sexes, assembled in rows of concentrating 
 circles rising head over head, and when evening begins to 
 close, the twinkling light caused by thousands of persons 
 striking flints to kindle their lamps has a most singular 
 effect. 
 
 Although there are no finer peasantry in the world than 
 the Spanish, much cannot be said for the higher orders, or 
 for the inhabitants of towns, who are a lazy indolent race. 
 Their greatest luxury is to stand idly, wrapped up in their 
 large capas, smoking cigars, or gambling in the evening. 
 Assassination is horridly common, many being stabbed at 
 noonday. Some of our countrymen were victims, and Lord 
 Fife saved Lieutenant (-libbon, who was stabbed. I have, 
 however, passed through very suspicious places at all hours 
 of the night, and never was interrupted. 
 
 The Spaniards had a rooted jealousy of the English. 
 They imagined that we had determined to keep possession of 
 Cadiz, and make it another Gibraltar. When the foreign 
 
239 
 
 battalion wag quartered outside the town at the Aqiiada, the 
 officers had permission to go out after the gates were shut. 
 One evening Lieutenant Farquharsou wished to enter to liis 
 quarters. He desired tlie Spanish sergeant to open the 
 wicket, winch the sergeant relused to do, desiring tlie Lieu- 
 tenant to scranibhj over tlie railing on the covered way. This 
 lie declined to do, saying that if they did not open the wicket 
 he would report them. They in a sulk moved open the 
 wicket, and the Lieutenant had no sooner entered than he 
 was shot through the body, of which he died in a few hours. 
 He was so much beloved by the men of his company, although 
 they were all foreigners, that on hearing of the catastrophe, 
 they ran to their arms, and would have stormed and mas- 
 sacred the whole of the Spanish guard had not their officers 
 prevented them. 
 
 It was truly melancholy to see how the Spanish regi- 
 ments were treated. Being in the same barracks spanwh 
 with them, we had every o})i)ortunity of observing M'fNH^&c. 
 their internal economy. The men were remarkably fine, but 
 their officers were not worthy of them. The drum was 
 always beating. The poor fellows would be under arms at 
 daylight, and kept for three or four hours doing nothin<r, as 
 if waiting for orders, but few or no ofHcers ever appeared. 
 What sort of breakfast, if any, they got I could not find out, 
 but at ten o'clock they had a parade for guard-mounting. 
 The drums again beat the alarm, ruiv-dc-dow. Then came 
 dinner time, a jiretty mess ! Camp-kettles containing beans, 
 cooked with red pepper, strewed with morsels of fat bacon, 
 were placed in rows in the barrack-yard. Each company by 
 tuck of drum fell in with a spoon in one hand, and a junk of 
 bread in the other, and formed a circle in single file round 
 the caldron. At a signal one advanced and took a spoonful 
 and retired, and then another, and so on till the whole mess was 
 finished. Evening parade followed, and then some eatables of a 
 very doubtful description. The Walloon Guards, who were 
 all Germans, appeared to have a better system. Their officers 
 were men belonging to many of the first families of Europe. 
 
240 
 
 There being no enemy in Andalusia, and Cadiz being in 
 perfect security, there was only our provisional battalion in 
 garrison, so that the duty merely consisted of a few sub-guards 
 which we had to visit; wo therefore had leisure to amuse 
 Visit to ourselves, and took advantage of this to visit the 
 Barossii. ^^^^^ ^f Barossa. We were entertained at Chicalana, 
 a beautiful country town, the favourite retreat of the Cadiz 
 nobility. Here they have cheery-looking country houses. 
 Next morning we proceeded to reconnoitre the field of 
 Barossa. There were still the skeletons of many brave men 
 to be seen bleaching on the brown heath. One officer, on 
 seeing an old shoe lying, gave it a kick over with his foot, and 
 a bright gold Napoleon tumbled out. 
 
 My friends, the Gordon family at Xeres, were most 
 visit to particularly attentive. I used to pay them frequent 
 xcres. visits, crossiug the bay to Port 8t. Mary's. Xeres 
 
 was only two leagues off. It is a remarkably neat country 
 town, surrounded by a finely cultivated country, having 
 extensive fields of grain and vineyards. My friends and 
 others here had suffered much loss during the French occupa- 
 tion. Mr. James Gordon, or Don Jacob, as he was called, 
 was married to an uncommonly clever lady of French 
 extraction. When the French invaded that part of the 
 country, most of the Spanish inhabitants fled ; but Mr, 
 Gordon, having no house or friends in any other part of the 
 country, resolved to remain and take 'is chance. Marshal 
 Soult, finding him a person in possession of such a large 
 establishment in farms and stores of wine, insisted that he 
 should assume the office of prefect of the district, under 
 penalty of forfeiting his all. Under these circumstances, he 
 had little or no alternative but to comply. He nuide use of 
 the authority invested in him to make the burdens imposed by 
 the invader bear as lightly as possible on the people : but he 
 was plundered by both parties — his n<nv masters, the French, 
 and his old friends, the Spaniards. Tiie French took his 
 stock of wines, which had accumulated, he not being able to 
 export them, and distributed them as rations for the soldiers ; 
 
241 
 
 while the Spanish guerillas came down from the mountains 
 and seized his large flock of cattle as prizes, treating him as 
 an enemy. 
 
 The butts of sherry are kept in long sheds, with aisles, 
 like a cathedral. The butts are on rows on either hand, with 
 the bungs always open. A certain quantity of very old wine 
 is always kept on hand to mix with the new, which makes it 
 sooner ripe and fit for the market. 
 
 When Lord Wellinu;ton came to Cadiz to consult with the 
 government about the future operations of the army, he stayed 
 at Mr. Gordon's house, going and returning. They were 
 astonished at the simplicity of his habits. He had mentioned 
 over night that he wished to be called at seven o'clock next 
 morning. Accordingly, Mr. Gordon had the servants all 
 ready with shaving water, &c., and the instant the hour 
 struck, he knocked at the door, when his Lordship desired 
 him to come in. He was already dressed, and was rolling 
 up his shaving apparatus, himself having performed that 
 operation with cold water, and was ready to mount and 
 depart. They, with some difficulty, prevailed on him to take 
 a slight breakfast. 
 
 It being my turn for detachment, I was sent with 
 150 men to relieve the garrison of Tarifa. We 
 marched on the 2nd July, 1813, the first day isis. 
 through the Isla de Leon, to Chicalana, where I got 
 an excellent billet on a Spanish family of great respectability. 
 The gentleman of the house had joined the French interest, 
 and of course had been obliged to flee with them when they 
 retreated. The ladies told me that they had got letters from 
 him in which he mentioned that the French government was 
 much confounded by the brilliant movement Lo^^d Wellington 
 had made in turning the right flank of their line of operations 
 on the Douro, which stultified and defeated the whole of their 
 plans without the English losing a man. 
 
 On the next day, the 3rd, we passed through Conel, a small 
 place on the sea-coast, famous for its tunny fishery. These 
 are large fish, something like a porpoise, part of which may 
 
 16 
 
242 
 
 be eaten ; but it is caught chiefly for the abundance of oil it 
 affords. Here the most interesting object to an Englishman 
 is Trafalgar. The country lias a wild, open appearance, with 
 herds of swine and slieep. We reached Vejar late in the day. 
 It is an old Moorish town romantically situated on the rocky 
 point of a steep hill, so that no wheeled carriage of any 
 description was ever seen within the place. 
 
 On the 4th we had to bivouac in the open air. We heard 
 the boom of the cannon of Gibraltar. On the 5th we reached 
 Tarifa, also an old Moorish town. The troops were quartered 
 on an island about six hundred yards from the mainland. 
 But during the siege of the place, the British managed to get 
 an embankment made, and formed a road on it so as to connect 
 it with the town. This was an important point gained, for more 
 reasons than one. It facilitated free egress to the works 
 established there ; but it was of much greater natural conse- 
 quences, being the identical spot where all the Spanish gun- 
 boats lay concealed during the war with us and molested our 
 convoys. Tliese gunboats started out, took a position beyond 
 the range of musketry, and blazed away at us. Being mere 
 specks themselves on the water, it was difficult for the ships 
 of war to hit them. They did incalculable damage to our 
 trade, hence it was a good stroke of policy to get this dam 
 made, which, by the sea beating on both sides, soon became 
 a dense bank of accumulated sand, so that no person could 
 ever open a passage again. 
 
 Tarifa had not recovered the effect of the siege. Its former 
 beautiful suburb on the western side was still in ruins. It 
 was a depot for the galley-slaves, who were chained in bands, 
 or in twos and threes. The system of punishment did not 
 seem proportionate to the crimes f the slaves. I asked one 
 of them for what crime he was there. The villain coolly 
 answered : " Un muerto " — a murder. On asking the next 
 one (a fine young man) he, in tears, replied : " Un libra de 
 tabacco". They were employed in erecting a lighthouse on 
 the island, which, by-the-bye, was at the expense of England. 
 Tarifa, renowned for the gallant and successful defence 
 
243 
 
 which a handful of English troops made, when besieged by 
 Marshal Soult in person, is a small old Moorish visit to 
 
 I -111 ••>,i' 11 • 1 r. Tnrifii and 
 
 town, encu'cled by a single thin wall, with a few Tangiors. 
 towers, but without any exterior works of defence. It is 
 situated on a promontory at the entrance of the Mediterranean. 
 The streets are steep and extremely narrow, nor have the houses, 
 in general, any pretensions to an appearance of grandeur. On 
 a cursory view, it might be supposed that there was nothing of 
 a very interesting description to be found within the place. 
 After a short residence, however, the stranger will be agreeably 
 surprised with attractions sufticient to induce him to prolong 
 his stay ; that is to say, should he have the good taste to 
 cultivate tiie acquaintance of the charming Tarifa ladies. 
 The fair Tarifenias are celebrated no less for the beauty of 
 their features and the symmetry of their forms, than for the 
 peculiarity of their dress, when they appear out of doors. 
 They still maintain the Moorish custom of going, on such 
 occasions, with their heads and faces covered, instead of 
 assuming the open mantilla worn in other parts of Spain. 
 This is done in a very singular manner, A piece of silk or 
 other black stuff, about a yard and a half long and one broad, 
 is lined with some coloured silk, and a runner, or drawing 
 tucker, is made along the lower edge. When this is to be 
 used, after the saya, or black upper slip is put on, the tapa, 
 with the lining outwards, is placed behind, and brought 
 round tlie waist, the strings are drawn tight, and tied in 
 front, while the upper edge hangs down to the feet. After it 
 has been neatly puckered all round, the upper edge is raised 
 and brought over the head, and so managed with the hands 
 that only one brilliant dark eye can be seen sparkling 
 through the small opening. The ample folds of this unique 
 costume give a fulness to the outward appearance of the bust, 
 which, contrasted with the slender waist, the small foot and 
 ankle, in silken hose and neat slippers, gives a fine effect to 
 the entire contour of figure. But, however becoming it may 
 be, it is certainly not the less tantalising, as one frequently 
 cannot recognise who the fair incognita may be. Should you 
 
244 
 
 have passed one of these, supposing you knew her, without 
 noticing her, or have omitted the usual sahitations, such as, 
 " A los pies de usted ! " or, " Beso las manos do uated ! " 
 you would get a smart rap at the evening tcrtiilia for having 
 been guilty of such a hetise. Every woman ilatters herself 
 that there is a certain indescribable individuality about her 
 which no man ought ever to mistake when in this dress. 
 The dames of Tarifa trip along at a smarter pace than 
 Spanish ladies usually do. The donnas, on all other 
 occasions, walk with a graceful measured step and erect 
 carriage, which impart a certain dignity such as the generality 
 of women in other countries never possess. Indeed, they are 
 so justly proud of this elegant acquirement, that to take 
 notice of a lady's air and manner is the highest compliment 
 that can be paid. The ejaculation of "Que Gracia !" — Oh, 
 what grace — is esteemed a greater mark of admiration than 
 anything that could be said on the score of beauty or other 
 personal advantage. 
 
 The few English ofilcers of the small garrison were 
 admitted to all evening parties on the most friendly footing. 
 Music, singing, and dancing, with sometimes a little loto, 
 were the general amusements, varied at times by games at 
 forfeits. There was one lady, as elegant and accomplished as 
 she was beautiful, who possessed musical talents of the first 
 order — an absolute queen of song. Never, in any country, did 
 I hear anyone who surpassed her as a private vocalist. Her 
 accompaniments on the piano or guitar were perfection. So 
 pleasing were her manners, and so modest her demeanour, 
 that she was the admiration of the men, and yet a favourite 
 with her own sex. Such was Alphonsita, the fair daughter 
 of a colonel of engineers. Another fascinating Tarifenia, 
 rivalling Alphonsita in charms, but not possessing all her 
 acquirements, so captivated a noble lord, then on an amateur 
 military expedition in these southern climes, but who, of 
 course, had more opportunities of displaying his gallantry in 
 devotion to the fair than in active operations in the field, that 
 he proposed to place his heart and fortune at hev disposal ; 
 
245 
 
 and, on his proceeding to England on urgent affairs, he, with 
 the consent of her parents, placed her in a convent on a 
 handsome allowance, in order to finish her education, or 
 perhaps to place her out of the way of other rivals. His 
 lordship, however, proved no true knight. This Dulcinea, 
 had Don Quixote heen in existence, might fairly have called 
 upon him to redress her wrongs. She, however, most sensibly, 
 took the matter very quietly ; came forth from the convent, 
 and consoled herself by marrying a man of her choice, who 
 being her own countryman, was a more suitable match. 
 
 The stranger ought not to omit visiting Guzman's Tower, 
 famed in historic recollections, and the splendid scenery from 
 this point of view. The blue, deep water, rippling on the 
 beach beneath, appears like an expanded lake, reposing in 
 the bosom of the surrounding hills and magnificent mountains. 
 The traveller, on reflecting that he is standing in Europe, 
 and beholds Africa opposite, with the passing crowd of 
 vessels and majestic ships of war intervening, discovers that 
 appearances are very deceitful — that he gazes on a branch of 
 the ocean — nay, that he is, perhaps, actually perched on one 
 of the supposed jjillars of Hercules, commanding the Straits 
 of Gibraltar. The above tower, as history tells us, de- 
 rives its name from the heroic Don M. Guzman, who was 
 Governor of the place when besieged by the Moors. These 
 infidels having seized his infant son, whose nurse had strayed 
 with him too far from the gates, thinking that the Governor 
 would surrender to save his child, summoned him to capitu- 
 late, with the option of having his son restored, or, in case of 
 refusal, of losing the babe by the infliction of a violent death. 
 The brave Guzman ascended the tower, and from this identical 
 spot, with scorn, rejected the offered terms, declaring that, 
 however distressing to his feelings as a father, he would 
 never sacrifice his honour to save his child. To convince 
 them of his determination, he tossed his sword over the wall, 
 which the barbarians instantly plunged into the bosom of 
 the young innocent, who thus gloriously, though uncon- 
 sciously, died in the cause of his country. 
 
246 
 
 " Having approached so close to the water's edge, and the 
 shores of Africa appearing so temptingly near, we 
 
 T.«.glor8. 1 \ • 1 * f 4. 
 
 may as well make a trip across, and take a peep at 
 Tangiers." Tliis was said to me one day by a gallant com- 
 mander of one of His Majesty's gunboats. My arrangements 
 were soon made. A few hours of fair wind sufficed to waft 
 us across the straits, and in tho evening we came to anchor 
 in the harbour of Tangiers, alongside of a frigate which had 
 brought Mr. A'Court, afterwards Lord Heytesbury, Ambas- 
 sador from His Britannic Majesty to the Emperor of Morocco, 
 on his way to Fez with a large assortment of presents. Early 
 next morning I landed with my friend of the gunboat, who, 
 having liis regular pass, was permitted to enter the town ; 
 while I, having no such document to produce, was detained 
 at the gate by a coarse-looking fellow in a brown woollen 
 smockfrock, having a hood behind. This infidel warder 
 swore that the Jiashaw was asleep, and that no one could 
 enter without his permission. He showed me into a vrulted 
 porch, with iron gratings in front, which gave it the appear- 
 ance of a cage. Soon afterwards, while I was sitting on a 
 stone bench in rather a surly mood at such usage, a fine- 
 looking elderly Moor, in a rich Turkish dress, came in. On 
 observing me in uniform, he snluted me in Spanish with 
 many obeisances, and informed me that he was captain of 
 the port — that his Highness the Bashaw was a wonderfully 
 good man — and there was no doubt but that on his being 
 informed that an English officer had arrived, he would give 
 orders for my being admitted. About an hour afterwards, a 
 swarm of greedy rascals came running down, each declaring 
 that he was the person who had obtained the favour of my 
 being permitted to enter, and all, in a tone of demand rather 
 than of request, prattling for remuneration. I gave them to 
 understand that I had no intention whatever of paying each 
 individual, and, to get clear of the hubbub, threw a piece of 
 money amongst them. This had the desired effect, and 
 during the scramble I beckoned to a Jew porter to take up 
 my portmanteau. He immediately pulled off his black cap 
 
247 
 
 and slippers, putting both undcv his arm, and then, shoulder- 
 ing my baggage, trudged off. As this mode of proceeding 
 was new to me, I inquired the reason. He seemed very 
 reluctant to give an explanation whicli proved humiliating 
 to himself and to his nation. The fact was, we had to pass 
 a mosque, and on such occasions all Jews are obliged to do 
 so uncovered and barefoot ; so, to save himself the trouble of 
 stopping on tlie way, or to avoid doing publicly this abhorred 
 mark of homage, he very prudently arranged beforehand. I 
 was conducted to a sort of hotel kept by an Italian, followed 
 by a concourse of people, who, on the whole, behaved respect- 
 ably enough, there being oidy an occasional salutation of 
 " Perro de Christiano ! " or Christian dog. Several Moors of 
 seeming respectability came in. Some of them introduced 
 themselves by saying they had been in England, meaning 
 Gibraltar. The Moors in general are a fine race of men, 
 many much fairer than tbeir neighbours, the Spaniards, while 
 others are of a brownish-red colour, and a few quite black ; 
 but these Othellos, I was told, were descendants of slaves 
 who had obtained their liberty : indeed, all the rich Moors 
 have still many black slaves. One or two persons very 
 politely offered to show me what was most worthy of notice. 
 I gladly accepted tlieir offer, as a sort of protection from 
 annoyance. Although anyone may walk about the town in 
 safety, no Christian can venture outside the walls without a 
 guard, which the Bashaw always grants if applied and paid 
 for. 
 
 In my hasty departure from Tarifa, I had provided no 
 articles of any value ; and as no visit can be paid to his 
 Highness without a suita])lc present, I was obliged to restrain 
 my curiosity, and refrain from soliciting an interview. 
 
 Here, as in all Moorish towns, the streets are extremely 
 narrow and filthy, the houses in general very mean-looking, 
 and from their having no windows towards the streets, and 
 the shops being only dark cells, open in front, the whole had 
 a triste and sombre appearance. One finds here no redeeming 
 qualities as at Tarifa. Instead of the graceful fair ones in 
 
248 
 
 the black tapada, the only Moorish females to be seen are 
 mitric figures, covered with a dirty white cauiel-hair cloth, 
 hung over their heads all round — so that in order to see 
 where to step they must walk with their arms extended, 
 as if playing at blindman's bull", or gro])ing in the dark ; 
 and if one might judge from their gait, they must be old 
 and ugly before they are peniiittud even to enjoy this 
 indulgence. A few of the Jewesses whom we observed 
 sitting at their doors were, however, particularly good 
 looking. 
 
 We visited the zocco or market outside the gate. This 
 had quite an oriental appearance. Numbers of camels were 
 lying all round, and many Arabs basking in the sun. There 
 was an abundant display of various choice fruits, particularly 
 oranges, which are here delicious, superior to the Spanish. 
 Meat, poultry, game of all kinds, were surprisingly cheap ; 
 but this arbitrary government is so avaricious, that no article 
 can be shipped without the most exorbitant duty. By a 
 special agreement, Gibraltar and our ships of war are allowed 
 to purchase a certain number of sheep, fowls, &c., but an 
 individual is only permitted to carry on board one fowl, 
 or two pigeons, each day, this being deemed a sufficient 
 allowance. By a particular favour obtained through the 
 consul, I was allowed to send off one dozen fowls, which had 
 only cost two shillings. Having advanced to some distance 
 in the zocco, and approached a sort of pillar or monument 
 surrounded with wild-looking Arabs, they, on observing me, 
 became very clamorous. One of ray Moorish friends hinted 
 that it would be prudent to retire ; while he mumbled some- 
 thing about un Santo. He then conducted me to see the 
 lions, not of the place, but real royal animals, which were 
 waiting to be shipped for England, as a present to His Majesty. 
 They were in a low outhouse, with a small open window 
 placed about four feet from the ground, having only a 
 wooden bar across. While looking in at these animals, my 
 companion grasped hold of me, and pulled me hastily away, 
 assuring me that if any accident should happen to me, his 
 
249 
 
 life would be answerable, because he would be the last person 
 in whose company [ should have been seen. I ridiculed the 
 idea of danger, but, to convince nie that there were suilicient 
 grounds for his alarni, he told me that only a few weeks 
 before, a respectable Jew, on one of their feast days, had 
 brought his family to see these very lions, and that while 
 in the act of throwing in a leg of mutton to them as a treat, 
 one of the largest pounced up, and with one pat of his paw 
 knocked the poor man dead in the centre of his children. 
 Indeed, not many days after my visit, I learned that these 
 animals broke out of the den, to the consternation and alarm 
 of the whole town. Tiic natives betook themselves to their 
 houses, and, armed with their long nniskets, took post on the 
 flat roofs, while tiiey ordered out all the Jews, on pain of 
 being fired upon, to catch the ferocious animals. These un- 
 fortunate people managed this serious affair with some address. 
 They killed several slieep, and laid a train of tempting 
 7norccaiuc, consisting of legs, loins, shoulders, &c., at various 
 distances all the way to the den — no doubt taking a hint 
 from "Jack the Giant-killer". This ruse succeeded, and the 
 kings of the forest were again lodged in state. 
 
 The Jews are here treated in the most insulting and 
 degrading manner. None are allowed to wear a round hat 
 without paying a very handsome sum for a licence. They, 
 however, allured by great profits — for all the trade is in their 
 hands — bear all with the most abject servility. The most 
 wealthy amongst them are obliged to put on the appearance 
 of poverty, so as not to attract the attention of the lynx eyes 
 of the Bashaws, or the Emperor ; and indeed, as for that, such 
 of the Moors as venture to sliow too much appearance of 
 affluence, do not escape ; for soon after my return to Tarifa, 
 I learned that my venerable acquaintance, the captain of the 
 port, had tied to Gibraltar. It seems the wonderful and 
 good Bashaw sent a very polite message to him, requesting 
 the loan of some 20,000 piastres. Our friend, being well 
 aware that if he were simple enough to send them, not one 
 would ever return to his coffers, and that if he did not, his 
 
2o0 
 
 head would be the price of his refusal, having secretly sent 
 off part of his treasure, hid the remainder, and accomplished 
 his departure. 
 
 The course which political events were at this period 
 taking in Europe created no small sensation even in this 
 remote corner. The accounts of the French being driven 
 over the Pyrennees, and finally out of Spain, by Lord Welling- 
 ton, afforded the greatest satisfaction to the Moors. They 
 were congratulating one another and exclaiming to me in 
 Spanish, " Gracias a Dios ! Gracias a Dios ! " They seemed 
 to have had great apprehensions that Napoleon, after conquer- 
 ing Europe, would have demolished their empire. Previously 
 to his most astonishing success, all nations in Europe had 
 consuls at Tangiers, who used to display their national arms 
 and flags on their houses ; but as each nation in succession 
 was brought under the dominion of France, the French 
 consul made each of them drop their colours ; so that at one 
 period there were only the English and French flags to be 
 seen. But in proportion as the European States began to 
 recover, the consuls of those nations first freed from their thral- 
 dom began to venture from their hiding-holes, and up went a 
 Spanish flag, next a Prussian, then a Neapolitan, &c., &c., 
 until, when I was there, all were again triumpliantly displayed; 
 while, as an instance of the mutability of human affairs, so 
 great was the reaction, that the French flag w^s torn down, 
 the arms disappeared, and the consul himself was obliged 
 to fly from the place. 
 
 The governor of Tarifa was a good sort of man named Don 
 Tarifa. Dabun, but he had no energy. His garrison was 
 AgHciauirc. composed of a few regular, and a company or two 
 tbreshUiK 0^ rcscrve, troops. Some jealousy having arisen 
 ''°''"" between them and our troops on the island, some of 
 
 our men in passing througli a small square where the 
 Spanish barracks were situated, were insulted and pursued 
 by the Spaniards. Our people armed themselves with stones, 
 sticks, or whatever they could first find, turned round, and 
 heat all the Spaniards into the barracks. These fellows in a 
 
251 
 
 cowardly manner opened a fire from the windows, and our 
 fellows kept pelting them with stones. The Spaniards then 
 opened the barrack gates and poured a regular fire on the 
 defenceless men. On being informed of the circumstance I 
 hastened to the spot, and got between the contending parties, 
 but ere I could stop the fray a poor fellow was mortally 
 wounded, and two others severely, by my side. I got our 
 men drawn off, and went witli them to the island. They 
 were in a state of great excitement, and wished to turn the 
 cannon of the fort against the town, exclaiming, " Ces ne sont 
 pas des soldats. Ces sont des brigands ! " The poor governor 
 got so alarmed at our handful of men that he orderetl the 
 gates to be shut lest we should attack the town. 
 
 The English garrison consisted of nearly 200 men under 
 my command, a party of artillery who had charge of the 
 batteries, and a considerable depot of military stores — the 
 whole under the command of a field-officer of the 29th 
 Eegiment. 
 
 'We made excursions into various parts of the country. 
 The fertility of the soil is remarkable. The French had 
 destroyed all the pasture of the extensive plain adjoining, 
 and had swept away the large herds of brood mares. Before 
 I left the place the plain was again covered with grass, and 
 herds of swine and horses running about in such numbers 
 that sometimes when they were congregated together they 
 looked like regiments of cavalry. Some of the finest horses 
 in Andalusia are bred here. The mares do no work but 
 trample out the corn. For this purpose a clay floor is pre- 
 pared in the plain, on which the sheaves of corn are placed. 
 Five or six mares are put abreast, and a man stands in the 
 centre, making them go round and round, which threshes out 
 the grain, and chops the straw into small morsels at the same 
 time. The operations of husbandry were very simple. A 
 plough consisting of two crooked sticks drawn by two oxen 
 scratched the ground, and a branch of a tree, dragged also by 
 oxen, harrowed in the seed. The crops were wonderful. 
 Still, on account of tiie exhaustion consequent on the war, 
 
252 
 
 large quantities of corn and cattle were smuggled over from 
 Africa. We got supplies of many luxuries from Gibraltar, 
 but the terrible malignant fever or plague having broken out, 
 all communication was cut off. 
 
 The mountains beyond the plain being infested with 
 wolves, which do much mischief to the sheep, and even to 
 the horses, when a person kills a wolf he brings the skin to 
 the Town Council. They pay him a certain reward, and cut 
 a piece out of the ear. He then walks about with the skin 
 in triumph, and receives presents from all the farmers or 
 those that have sheep in the place. The beach abounds witli 
 most beautiful shells of every size, shape, and colour, which 
 are manufactured into artificial flowers, &c. 
 
 The Spaniards have a great horror of consumption, be- 
 lieving it to be most contagious. There was a very clever 
 young man, Dr. Eamsay, labouring under this fatal malady. 
 He had fitted up a chimney in his lodgings. On his quitting, 
 to return to England, no native would enter the house where 
 he had lived. To tlieir astonishment I took his rooms. They 
 all assured me that I was tempting Providence, and that I 
 assuredly would fall a victim. I, however, by having wood 
 collected, managed to enjoy the luxury of a good fire in the 
 wet and chilly evenings during the winter. 
 
 Here a curious reaction of principle took place. In the 
 battalion were many native Frenchmen, while the majority 
 were natives of Prussia, Saxony, Baden, Wirtemberg, Hanover, 
 Nassau, &c., who had been taken from their homes as con- 
 scripts when the Confederation of the Ehine was formed. 
 So great was the awe inspired by the French in these 
 Germans, that they were held in the utmost respect, and it 
 appeared from what transpired afterwards that this feeling 
 was retained by those who promiscuously entered our service. 
 After the tide of affairs had turned against Napoleon, from 
 his defeat in Eussia, when the Prussians and the other 
 German powers were liberated from thraldom, the natives of 
 these countries began to hold up their heads and bully the 
 Frenchmen. Napoleon's reverses increased, and when he 
 
253 
 
 was driven over the Rhine into France, after Leipzig, the few 
 Frenchmen in our battalion sunk into insignificance, and the 
 others triumphed over them. They came to me to complain 
 that they had a miserable life of it. Formerly they were 
 looked up to, but now tliey were humbled. 
 
 Previous to my leaving Cadiz I had forwarded a memorial 
 to Lord Wellington, requesting to be promoted to a company, 
 stating my having served so long in actual service, and 
 having been severely wounded. I had the pleasure to find 
 by the Gazette that the provisional battalion had been incor- 
 porated and made permanent, being added as an eighth 
 battalion to the GOth Rifle Regiment, and that I was promoted 
 to a company ; my commission being dated 5th November, 
 1813. I was made senior captain except one, who, being 
 absent, and only a major commanding, I became from fifth 
 lieutenant in the 29tli Regiment second in command of this 
 corps, no small step for a young man. 
 
 On the 19th March, 1814, I received orders to march for 
 Cadiz. The first night we halted at a farmliouse. After 
 dinner, some English cheese was produced, which created 
 great curiosity amongst the peasant servants. I gave one a 
 bit. He was much pleased, as he had never tasted anything 
 like it, because in this southern clime they make no butter, and 
 only a little goat's milk cheese. T asked him what he com- 
 monly lived upon. He shrugged his shoulders, and replied, 
 "Gaspachoet pan (bread), et pan et gaspacho". This gaspacho is 
 made with garlic, pods of red pepper, pounded in a 
 mortar, to which oil is added, then vinegar, with the addition 
 of some water ; when this is well mixed, bread is sliced in. 
 This simple mixture is the universal food of the peasantry, 
 particularly during harvest. 
 
 We continued our journey on the 20th March. The 
 country was still an extended plain, covered with Hocks of 
 brood mares and large herds of cattle. At some places the 
 land was well cultivated. In the evening we arrived at 
 Medina Sidonia. This town is singularly situated on a sugar- 
 loaf- shaped hill, rising from the plain, which surrounds it on 
 
254 
 
 all sides. The climate is esteemed so fine that convalescents 
 come from all parts for the recovery of their health. 
 
 Next day we found ourselves once more in the great em- 
 porium of trade, fashion, and frivolity, although Cadiz was not 
 now so full as fornu?rly, as the Ilcgent, tlie Government, the 
 Cortes, and all public functionaries had removed to Madrid. 
 The Frencli having been driven out of Spain, and our armies 
 Restoration haviug iuvadcd the soil of France, Napoleon had 
 
 of Kintf 
 
 Fordiimnd. liberated King Ferdinand the Seventh, and all were 
 in joyous and anxious expectation for the return of their 
 beloved king to the throne of his fathers. He did come, and 
 never were anticipations more damped. On going as usua. 
 to visit at some of our friends' houses one evening, we found 
 detachments of troops posted in the streets, and all the 
 portals closed. Astonished at what could be the matter, we 
 knocked as usual. A little wicket was opened, and through 
 an iron grating it was inquired who we were. When they 
 found that we were friends and English officers, we were 
 eagerly admitted. All was sorrow and dismay. Tlie same 
 post which brought the intelligence of Ferdinand's entry into 
 Madrid brought also secret warrants to seize some of the 
 noblest and bravest of the land. Many of their friends had 
 been arrested without a moment's warning, nor were they 
 conscious of having been guilty of any crime, further than 
 having wished for an ameliorated system of government, and 
 that the Cortes should have a voice in making laws for the 
 kingdom. For this they were termed Liberals. The Serviles, 
 or Court and arbitrary power party, were in high spirits. 
 All the public functionaries, generals, &c., in order to secure 
 their places, retracted all their political sentiments which 
 they had entertained for the six previous years. They 
 announced a grand national fete to be held at the Isla. We 
 were all invited with most pompous cards of invitation. 
 
 A kind of orchestra was erected in the pla(ja. All the 
 young ladies of quality and of the best families who could 
 sing, were made to exhibit their vocal powers on the occasion, 
 and amongst them was our fair Tarifenian, Alphonsita. This 
 
255 
 
 was followed by fireworks, and the evening concluded with 
 a good ball at the theatre, which was handsomely decorated 
 for the occasion. A temporary saloon was fitted up of frame- 
 work and canvas, decorated with lla;.^s and ancient arms, and 
 devices of every description. Tiie supper, under the super- 
 intendence of an Italian artist, was truly magnificent. In the 
 midst of this festive scene, by some accident the canvas 
 caught fire, which spread with great rapidity. A scene of 
 confusion and terror ensued. All the ladies took to flight, 
 crowding and trampling on each other. 
 
 At another grand ceremony the Constitution was publicly 
 annulled, and the statue of the Constitution was torn from its 
 place and broken to pieces. 
 
 While these rejoicings were going on, great dissatisfaction 
 reigned amongst the people, and particularly amongst the 
 lower orders. Having tasted the blessings of freedom, they 
 had no inclination to return to their old thraldom. The 
 gallant A^'aldez, who had fouglit agaiust us at Trafalgar, was 
 still governor and captain-general of the province. One 
 evening at the theatre a demagogue shoemaker got up in the 
 pit, and calling for the manager, handed him a Liberal song, 
 and desired him to bring forward all the professionals to 
 make them sing it. On his persisting, the whole house 
 insisted on its being done. A counter revolution took place 
 that night, but the military were in possession of the high 
 works and fortifications on the land side which command the 
 town, and we were in the same barracks, in rather an awk- 
 ward predicament. The populace were outrageous below, 
 while the military on the roof above our heads were pointing 
 the guns at them. After a great deal of talk, nothing was 
 done, and things subsided into sullen submission. A few 
 days afterwards it was anumniced that Don Villa Vicezico 
 had been appointed governor in place of Valdez. On the day 
 of the new governor's entry the streets were lined with 
 military, and a grand gala day was ordered by the public 
 functionaries. Valdez walked out on foot to meet his 
 successor. I saw them enter together apparently on the most 
 
256 
 
 friendly terms. The new governor had an order in his 
 pocket for the arrest of Vaklez, who within ten days after- 
 wards was in a solitary dungeon in the Castle of Segovia. 
 
 Cadiz was no longer the gay place it had been. All the 
 Enciish Wealthy that wore not prisoners of State left the 
 in^dgc^to'"' town. The English troops had been gradually 
 Mth Aug.', leaving this quarter. We were the only regiment 
 ^^^*' that remained, and on the 14th August we embarked, 
 
 with orders to proceed to Gibraltar. On our departure Cadiz 
 was finally evacuated by the English. 
 
 On arriving in the Bay of Gibraltar we learned that the 
 
 malignant pestilent fever had again made its appear- 
 
 20th Auff., ance in the garrison. We were ordered to dis- 
 
 1814. 
 
 embark, which we did on the 20th August, and 
 were encamped on the neutral ground, without the walls. 
 Here we were extremely healthy. It was a melancholy sight 
 to see the dead-carts filled with dead bodies and quicklime 
 hourly passing us to deposit the corpses in a burial ground at 
 some distance beyond our camp About a month afterwards 
 the fever began to abate. The Governor, however, still 
 believed that it was not extinct; but another General, insisting 
 that it was, urged the case, so that we were ordered into the 
 town to decide the dispute and prove who was right. By 
 that hour next day we had an immense number of men ill of 
 the dreadful malady. Many taken ill in the evening were 
 dead and buried before noon next day. And so it continued 
 daily, thinning our numbers. Nor did the officers escape. I 
 met Mr. Duguid in the street, who had just come from his 
 own houSvi, where he had left one of his friends in the black 
 vomit, the precursor of death. Several of our ofticers were 
 seized, myself among the number. The fever came on like a 
 flash of lightning : a sudden chill down the back, a dreadful 
 headache, soon changed into a burning fever, with absolute 
 prostration of all strength. The military medical attendance 
 was of the worst description, in fact little or none. The army 
 medical officers had got permission to attend the civil inhabi- 
 tants. The rich Jews and Moors paid handsomely in gold 
 
257 
 
 doubloons; from us they were not entitled to any such fees. The 
 consequences were evident. We were neglected. In cases which 
 required the utmost medical skill and attention to watch the turn 
 of the disease no one was by. The doctor paid a hasty visit 
 at some uncertain hour, and then handed you over to some 
 young apothecary apprentice who had volunteered his services 
 from home in hope of getting an appointment, or to an 
 orderly corporal, who went his round to deliver medicine. 
 In one of the corporal's visits to myself he said, "You are 
 very bad, sir, but Captain Pym is worse ; he will be dead in 
 half-an-hour ". The corporal was right. Poor Pym died, and 
 was the first buried in a new ground at the ceremony of the 
 consecration of which he had commanded only a few days 
 before. Thanks to God, and a good constitution, I got over 
 the disease, but I was left in a desperately weak state. If 
 you reach the third day, hopes may be entertained of a 
 recovery, but in general aU died on the first or second day, 
 and the dead bodies turned a gold-colour. Major-General 
 Sir Charles Holloway, who was second in command, had 
 taken every precaution to cut off all communication with the 
 town and inhabitants. They were eighteen in family, 
 servants, &c., six of whom were carried off, including a son 
 and a daughter. It was lamentable to see the Moors carried 
 to the Lazaretto, they holding it an abomination to be touched 
 by a Christian. The police sergeant searched all the houses, 
 and obliged those who had not sufficient means of comfort to 
 go to the public hospital. The doctors made a fine harvest 
 of it, as the Jews handed out their gold pieces in the most 
 liberal manner. I knew some realise two hundred guineas 
 per week during the three months the fever prevailed. 
 
 As soon as it was possible I was moved to a healthy 
 barrack in town. Sitting one afternoon in front of the fire, 
 I felt my chair rise with me, and instantly down I came. A 
 loud report followed, the whole building vibrating. I thought 
 it was an earthquake, but it proved that in a thunderstorm 
 a magazine on the highest pinnacle of the rock had been 
 struck by lightning, which caused the whole to explode, 
 
 17 
 
258 
 
 sending masses of rock fourteen feet square to prodigious 
 distances, even as far as the neutral ground. Singularly 
 enough nobody was hurt. 
 
 The history of Captain Pym was something strange. He 
 had been an eminent miniature painter in London, and for 
 his health had taken a trip to Jersey, where the late General 
 Sir J. Doyle then commanded. The General was so pleased 
 with Pym's likenesses of some of his family, that he offered 
 him a commission in his regiment, which was accepted. He 
 was a subaltern doing duty at Cadiz when Lord Wellington 
 came to consult with the Regency. They wanted to present 
 him with his picture set in diamonds, but nobody could be 
 found to do it. Mrs. Strange, who had taken a fancy for 
 Pym, who more or less was domesticated in her husband's 
 house, mentioned his name. He was sent for, and Lord 
 Wellington told him that he had no time to sit to him, and 
 asked him if he could paint his likeness by occasionally 
 coming to him. Pym did so by going two or three mornings 
 to breakfast, and he certainly produced the most striking 
 likeness of Lord Wellington I have ever seen. He was noted 
 for a company, and got it in our new battalion. After his 
 death at Gibraltar, Mrs. Strange sent to claim the most of his 
 effects, alleging that she had presented him with them. The 
 major, who always acts as executor for deceased officers, said 
 this could not be done. She wrote a very angry letter, ending 
 with, "A present can be claimed. See Judge Blackstone." 
 She sent an agent to bid for the articles she claimed at the 
 sale of the effects, and some of the wicked youngsters made 
 her give rather long prices for them by bidding against her 
 out of mischief. 
 
 Having heard much of Roman antiquities to be seen at 
 Ronda, and of the magnificent scenery of the surrounding 
 country, rendered still more interesting by the gallant con- 
 duct of the mountaineer inhabitants of the district, who 
 during the struggle of the Peninsular war had formed them- 
 selves into guerilla bands, and with the most determined 
 courage resisted the superior numbers of the enemy, Captain 
 
269 
 
 C , aide-de-camp to his excellency the Governor, and I 
 
 availed ourselves of the opportunity of Messrs. Donino, the 
 great contractors at Gibraltar, going there to attend the 
 annual horse fair, to accompany them, as being well ac- 
 quainted in those regions. They most obligingly offered us the 
 use of their friend's horses on the way. On the 17th May, 
 1815, our party left Gibraltar at 6 o'clock A.M., nthMay, 
 and, after breakfasting at St. Eoque, we proceeded ^^^^" 
 at 10 o'clock A.M. on our journey, through a woodland country 
 terminating in a forest of cork and oak trees. On emerging 
 from this, and ascending an immense mountain, we beheld a 
 Inost romantic valley of some miles in length. Having de- 
 scended into it by a very craggy path, and crossed a rivulet, 
 we soon afterwards came to the river Guadiano, which being 
 almost dry, we followed the summer road which led up the 
 bed of the river for about ten miles. The stream at this 
 season is small, but it winds about so much that we crossed it 
 at least twenty times. It has high banks on each side. The 
 winter road runs up the right side. We now began to ap- 
 proach the mountains. Having halted at a miserable venta 
 for a short time, we began to ascend, but the ascent was so 
 steep that we were obliged to dismount and lead our horses 
 over rocks and round the brinks of precipices, for two or three 
 miles. We then got a view of Guacin, which had here a 
 most romantic appearance, seeming to form an amphitheatre 
 on the crest of the mountain ridge, having on the left a Fran- 
 ciscan convent with remarkably fine gardens, and on the right 
 a high rock crowned with old Moorish towers which com- 
 mand the place, which we reached about five o'clock, and 
 were carried by Mr. Donino to the house of an acquaintance, 
 who provided a supper of bacon, eggs, black puddings, salad, 
 &c., with plenty of country wine. This being a remote 
 country town, the place itself is small, with narrow steep 
 streets. Many of the houses and churches had been much 
 injured by the enemy during the war, and were it not for the 
 recollections of former scenes which had here occurred, there 
 would be little worthy of note ; and of course the inhabitants 
 
260 
 
 were all nnal people, there beinr; few or none of any wealth 
 or consequence amonyst them. Many friends of the family 
 crowded in during the evenin*:,' to see us strangers, and maJiy 
 remarks did we overhear on the differences of our costuirics, 
 uniforms, &c. As this part of the country is noted for being 
 the rendezvous of daring l)anditti, many people who were 
 going to the fair pre])ared to join our party as a protection. 
 
 The next morning being extremely stormy with wind and 
 rain, we determined to remain. A respectable farmer having 
 begged the pleasure of our company to dinni'r, we, wishing to 
 see the style of living of that class, accepted the invitation at 
 two o'clock. Our party consisted of the parish priest, the 
 superior of the Franciscans, a captain of militia, who had 
 been a commander of guerillas ; the surgeon, cntre nous, the 
 barber, a shopkeeper, and a farmer or two. On sitting down 
 there was nothing on the table excepting a plate, napkin, and 
 a bottle of wine to each. Plates of sliced oranges were 
 handed round. The first dish consisted of vermicelli prepared 
 with milk; then a thin rice soup, made palatable by adding 
 a spoonful of grated cheese. The olla then regaled our 
 olfactory nerves. This usually consists of a good-sized piece 
 of beef, a black pudding, anil a ]")iece of bacon, stewed for 
 many hours, to which is added calabazo or pumpkins, cabbages 
 cut small, peas, beans, tomatoes, &c., seasoned with a few 
 pods of pimento, black pepper, salt, &c., all well stewed 
 together in a small (|uantity of water. The manner of eating 
 it is this: The beef is cut up in slices and handed round. 
 Each person is then helped to a portion of the olla, which, 
 with the bacon and pudding, is served up in a large dish. 
 This, with the addition of an excellent sauce made from the 
 tomato, proves a very savory mess. Our small tumblers, 
 used instead of wine-glasses, were frequently filled, and as 
 often emptied. They seemed to have no idea of taking things 
 quietly during dinner. They must needs pledge us in 
 bumpers, each or any individual who did you that honour 
 touching your glass hob-and-nob with his own. Fowls, sliced, 
 roasted, and boiled, with sauce, were then introduced, followed 
 
261 
 
 by a kind of hasty pudding made of maize flour, milk, and 
 liggs, ornamented on tlie top with lines and figures of pounded 
 cinnamon strewed upon it. Cheese and fruits of all kinds 
 succeeded. During dinner the landlady, assisted by two or 
 tliree pretty girls and her servants, stood around, all jt>ining 
 in tlie conversation and serving us at the same time. The 
 superior of the Franciscans filled a bumper and handed it to 
 one of the young persons, who finislied ii without a halt. He 
 then filled again and pledged her to the bottom. Following 
 the good example of the worthy father, I performed the same 
 ceremony witli another, wlio was particularly hantlsome. 
 Ti\e dinner party having broken u}), and the reverend gentle- 
 men liaving departed, tlie evening was spent in singing 
 national songs, accompanied on the guitar. (Jne old gentle- 
 man exhibited great agility in dancing fandangos, boleras, &c., 
 for our amusement. Marmalada, or cheese made of (|uinces 
 and other sweetmeats, was handed round. Tlie girls dis- 
 played great naivete, and were extremely frank and good- 
 humoured. The captain narrated many of his exploits against 
 the enemy. He mentioned a very narrow escape he had 
 made, and the singular mode of his success. Having been in 
 advance of his party reconnoitring, attended by only a few 
 men, he was surprised and taken. They shot his companions, 
 but reserved him to be made a public example of. With 
 this view they were taking him to the centre of the column. 
 He knew the road well, and that they would have to pass a 
 place on the mountain where the lower side of the road was 
 very steep and sloping. He managed, on approaching this 
 point, to get pretty near the edge of the road, and just at the 
 proper moment he made a dash, overthrowing one or two 
 soldiers, flung himself over the low parapet, and rolled, 
 as he expected, headlong down. They fired many shots after 
 him, but he fortunately escaped unhurt except a few superfi- 
 cial bruises from the stones and brushwood, and rejoined his 
 guei'illas. 
 
 We left our friends next morning amidst many " vivas " 
 and wishes " ad mil annos ". We found our party very much 
 
262 
 
 increased by persons who did us the honour to imagine that 
 their purses and persons were secure when under the protec- 
 tion of an English uniform. The road lay generally over 
 hills, or along the side of mountains, showing deep and ver- 
 dant rich valleys, highly cultivated, and laid out in gardens 
 round the villages here and there to be seen. The lower 
 slopes of the mountains were generally covered with vine- 
 yards and the upper parts with wood, whose dark green 
 foliage contrasted well with the bleak summits and frowning 
 peaks, the regions of eternal snow, and gave a varied and 
 picturesque appearance to the scene. On these mountains 
 the wild goat or ch".mois and the wild boar range with the 
 utmost freedom. 
 
 We passed Benoli, a small town, near which there is an 
 old Moorish square-looking castle, with towers at each corner. 
 As we advanced the country became more wild. "We saw a 
 venta, which had been burnt by the enemy. The road became 
 very steep. We passed along a ridge, bleak and desolate, 
 with high rocks and crags on our left hand. Our friends 
 exhibited great symptoms of apprehension, lest they should 
 become the prey of banditti, which, although perhaps not 
 without foundation, proved visionary with regard to us. 
 Amongst those who had joined our party was the merchant 
 who had formed one of the dinner party on the previous day. 
 He pointed out the several points on the road where skir- 
 mishes between his countrymen and the French had taken 
 place. After the enemy, by the cruel examples they made of 
 many of the inhabitants, had in some measure subdued this part 
 of the district, they began to be less apprehensive of danger, and 
 appeared to have confidence in the inhabitants. On their 
 leaving Guacin one day on some expedition, a French captain 
 had forgot something in his lodgings, and rode back alone 
 into the town. In the act of dismounting at the door of his 
 former lodgings, he was surrounded by several people, when 
 one of them drew his cuchello, or stiletto, and stabbed him 
 dead ; and this person was the very individual merchant him- 
 self. He coolly added that he cut open the captain's cash 
 
2G3 
 
 waist-belt, and took out twenty douhloons. We looked with 
 horror at our travelling companion, and on saying, " How 
 could you commit so murderous a deed in cold blood ? 
 Why did you not make him prisoner and take his money if 
 it pleased you ?" He merely replied that he was a French- 
 man, who had invaded and ruined his country. 
 
 On turning the angle of a high peak, several voices called 
 out, " There is Ronda ! " On looking out we beheld Rondu, 
 this ancient stronghold of the Moors, like a white spot situated 
 on a small sunny plain in the midst of wild majestic moun- 
 tains. But as we descended, Eonda seemed to rise, until, on 
 near approach, we discovered that it stands on a high plain 
 of table-land, or flat rock, united to th(! mountains on one 
 side, but on two other sides encircled by a valley from which 
 the rock rises perpendicularly. On the third side, the one 
 by which we entered, it is separated from the country by a 
 deep, narrow chasm, which has the appearance of the rock 
 having been rent asunder by some convulsion of nature. 
 Through this gap dashes the river Guadiano, and over it 
 there is a most picturesque Roman bridge of one arch of 
 stupendous height. 
 
 The town is rather a neat place ; some of the streets are 
 pretty regular, with good houses. The few miserable posadas 
 being all full on account of the fair, we had to hire lodgings, 
 and engage a cook. The Alamaida, which is situated on the 
 perpendicular rock, is laid out with good taste, and affords a 
 healthy and agreeable public walk for the natives. There 
 was from this a most splendid view of the distant mountains, 
 and of the valley immediately at your feet, through which 
 the river is seen meandering. The Vlaqa, de Toros, or 
 amphitheatre for bull-fights, is tolerably good. In the 
 mountain valleys the finest breed of bulls is reared. 
 
 The horse-fair was well worth seeing. There were some 
 thousands of Andalusian horses, but they made only a poor 
 show, being all young, or very old weakly animals, owing to 
 the French having taken all the best. They even maimed 
 those that remained, putting out an eye, or laming them, so 
 
264 
 
 that they might not be of service to the guerillas. Here 
 the gipsies were in great display. 
 
 Having seen all things worthy of notice, we were greedy 
 to see more, and desirous of verifying the truth of the Spanish 
 proverb, " Qui no ha vista Sevilla no ha vista maraviglia," we 
 determined on seeing this wonderful place. On waiting on 
 the magistrate to have our passports vised, he strongly urged 
 us to take a guard, as from accounts he had received the 
 roads were by no means safe. We accordingly agreed to 
 take two grenadiers with us. We left Eonda on the morning 
 of the 22nd May, 1815. Passing through gardens, descend- 
 Road to ^^S ^''^^^ ascending hills, in some places covered with 
 SeviUe. wood, WO camo to a valley, down which runs a 
 river, with sloping hills on each side and mountains peeping 
 over them in their rear. It came on to rain very hard, and 
 we stopped at a vcnta. We found the stable filled with 
 people, and amongst them was the alcalde of the next town, 
 Algonzales. They informed us that a band of ladrones had 
 been seen close to the place, and that for this reason they had 
 taken refuge there until more people coming from the fair 
 should increase their number, so as to make a formidable 
 party, and they entreated us to remain to give them our 
 countenance and protection. We, however, as soon as the 
 shower passed over, mounted our horses and proceeded. The 
 alcalde very civilly gave us a note to his deputy to provide 
 us with good billets, and we continued our journey without 
 meeting any ladrones. On arriving at Algonzales and pre- 
 senting the order we had for lodgings, the scrivano, armed 
 with a little brief authority, plumply refused to oblige us, 
 alleging his surprise that the alcalde had given what he had 
 no right to give — strangers military billets in the time of 
 peace. Our gallant grenadiers were very indignant at this 
 conduct, and seemed to be thoroughly ashamed of their 
 countryman. Indeed they seemed to feel as if a gross insult 
 had been offered to themselves. We, however, got into a 
 posada kept by a smuggler, a jolly fellow, where there was, 
 as usual, only one table and a chair or two, with nothing in 
 
Zbo 
 
 the world iu the shape of eatables. But the soldiers, on 
 giving them a little money to lay out in provisions, seemed 
 to be good foragers, for, with the assistance of our servant, 
 they provided a capital dinner. 
 
 The road continued down tlie valley, along the right bank 
 of the jiver. At some distance from the left bank we 
 observed the small town of Zara, singularly situated on the 
 rocky ridge of a hill. We were told tliat the roads lead- 
 ing up to it, and several of the streets, and many of tlic 
 houses, were excavated out of the solid rock. This place in 
 times of chivalry had been a strong fortress, as the remains 
 of the walls and the castle, now in ruins, prove. It commands 
 one of the strongest passes at the entrance of the Sierras. 
 The extraordinary manner in which this place was surprised 
 and taken by Muley Aben Hassan, the last of the Moorish 
 kings, in 1481, has given a celebrity to its remains. Tlie 
 country hereabout is bleak and wild, with only a few patches 
 of cultivation near springs or rivulets. 
 
 In the evening, the alcalde ami his friends, having 
 arrived in safety, called upon us, and congratulated us on 
 our escape. He informed us that banditti were seen riding 
 on our flank for some distance on the hill above us, watching 
 our movements. On recollection, there could not have beun 
 a more favourable place for an attaclc. The river, swollen 
 with rain, was on our left hand ; the road was narrow and 
 bad, flanked on the right by a steep hill, so that it was a 
 defile in the proper sense of the word, which would have well 
 answered the usual mode of attack : which is, wliile one party 
 advances in front, another closes in from tlie rear, and a few 
 lying iu ambush on ihe flank render escape almost impossible. 
 They, I suppose, seeing us and our servant well mounted and 
 armed, and having an escort of King Ferdinand''; tmops, did 
 not think it prudent to attack us. 
 
 The country, although still very hilly in the neiglibourliood 
 of Algonzales, is tolerably well cultivated, and in tlie imme- 
 diate vicinity of the place there are many olive-groves and 
 beautiful gardens. A dreadful butchery took place at this 
 
266 
 
 town during the war. A French battalion marched in, and 
 occupied the church as a barrack, without any regard for the 
 sacredness of the place. While the men were engaged in 
 taking off their accoutrements, and arranging themselves, a 
 deadly volley was poured in upon them by the outraged 
 inhabitants and a body of guerillas, who had secretly ap- 
 proached the place. The French, thus taken by surprise, and 
 Punishment ^^^ smoke increasing the confusion, were nearly all 
 of sacrilege, destroyed, and the few remaining were secured as 
 prisoners. But diabolic revenge was taken by the French, 
 who determined on the destruction of the place, and made a 
 simultaneous attack on it from different points, so that very 
 few had an opportunity of escaping. The people resolved to 
 sell their lives as dearly as possible. They barricaded their 
 houses, and defended themselves to the last extremity. They 
 showed us two front rooms where a citizen, with several of 
 his sons, all excellent shots, kept up a most deadly fire from 
 the windows, while others loaded and handed them the fire- 
 arms. The father himself brought down twenty-two of the 
 enemy. The house was forced, and its brave defenders 
 perished. The place was now slowly recovering from the 
 effects of this horrible massacre. 
 
 On the 23rd May we proceeded up the mountain pass and 
 defile to " Puerto Serrana," " the gate of the mountain," where 
 we halted during some showers of cold rain. On leaving 
 this we reached Montellano, and, as the name indicates, the 
 country became more level. Here a fine church had been 
 destroyed by the enemy. The country continued open, with 
 corn and pasture lands. We halted for the night at Coronel, 
 a large open village, at a miserable posada, with empty 
 rooms — as usual, only a table, a chair or cork seat or two, 
 with nothing in the world in the shape of eatables ; but our 
 escort assisted us in providing fowls, sausages, vegetables, 
 and fruit for our entertainment. On the 24th we travelled 
 through a remarkably fine cultivated country to Utrera, which 
 is a neat town, being on the high road from Seville to Cadiz. 
 On leaving this we passed through fir-woods, the road ^eiug 
 
267 
 
 very sandy. We halted at the village of Las dos Hermanas, 
 round which the country is rather barren, and covered with 
 brushwood. But on approaching Seville the country becomes 
 one field of wheat. The plain extends far beyond what 
 human eye could reach, in the middle of which we discerned 
 the steeple of the cathedral rearing its lofty pinnacle to the 
 skies. On nearing the capital of Andalusia, the villas, orange- 
 groves, and gardens have a gay appearance. 
 
 Hotel being a word almost unknown in the Spanish 
 language, we, after roving about in quest of one for Arrive at 
 some time, were recommended to the Posada del ^*'^®' 
 Turco; and a most unchristian place it was, being more a 
 rendezvous for carriers than a place for travellers. 
 
 Having letters of introduction to his Excellency General 
 
 Count de G , and to Don M. Saavedra, whose wife 
 
 was of the blood royal, and whom I had the honour of 
 knowing some years previously at Cadiz, we experienced 
 the most polite and friendly attentions from both these 
 
 eminent personages. Count de G , being aware of our 
 
 anxiety to behold the wonders of a place of which so much 
 had been said, kindly insisted on becoming our cicerone. 
 He daily drove us in his own carriage to all the most remark- 
 able places worthy of notice. The first object of our research 
 was the Alcazar, the old Moorish palace, noted for its 
 beautiful Arabesque style, and its charming gardens, refreshed 
 with fountains sportively playing in the balmy air, heighten- 
 ing the odoriferous fragrance of the sweet orange blossoms 
 strewed on the ground in snow-like purity ; whilst the walks 
 are cooled by water-works so constructed, that on touching a 
 spring near the main fountain, hundreds of jets, artfully 
 dispersed, fall in gentle showers, allaying the dust of the 
 heated gravel. Amongst the numerous wonders visited, none 
 pleased me more than the superb archives of the Indies, and 
 the museum containing specimens of all the ancient splendours 
 of Montezuma, from Mexico, and the various costumes, &c., 
 of Peru and Chili. On visiting the Mint, I had the honour to 
 stamp the impression of the royal countenance on a piece of 
 
268 
 
 silver. In fact, I made a dollar. His Excellency, wlio was 
 a person of a cheerful disposition and pleasing manners, 
 invited us to dinner ; but as few people even of rank in this 
 country keep establislnuents for festive dinners, he rerpiested 
 us to meet him at an Italian restaurateur's. He informed us 
 that his family was originally Flemisli, as liis title denoted ; 
 that he had married a ]\Iiss O'lieilly, a lady of Irish extraction, 
 but who was now dead, learving him a daughter, who expected 
 that we would do her the pleasure of accompanying lier to 
 ride out in the evening. During the repast an incident 
 occurred which serves to illustrate the state of politics and 
 society at this time in Spain. Some letters were delivered to 
 him, one of which was nuirked " Al servicio del IJey ". On 
 observing this he threw it down in seeming agitation. 
 Making the sign of the Cross, he exclaimed, "God knows 
 whether this is to make me captain-general of the province 
 or to send me prisoner to Ceuta ! " On venturing to open the 
 dreaded epistle, he found it to contain many interrogations 
 concerning tlie " Coxo de INIalaga," a cripple shoemaker who 
 had cut no small ligure as a leader in tlie Liberal ranks, and 
 who was then a state prisoner. Ho seemed much relieved. 
 We afterwards adjourned to his house, and were introduced 
 to the youthful Condessa. She was a most lovely and 
 interesting girl, peri'(^ctly English in her aj^pearance, language, 
 and manners. During the Frencli occu])ation and the 
 reninsular War she had taken refuge in CJibraltar, where, 
 from her rank and amial)le ijualities, she had become an 
 inmate in the Governor's family. Having spent some tima 
 in agreeable conversation, the General gave her a hint to 
 prepare, saying the liorses would shortly be at the door. 
 After some little delay she reappeared, but, to our amaze- 
 Avcry mciit, liow metamorplioscd ! Slie ims ahsolutchj in 
 
 uncxiwctcd 1,, 7 I ■,? • T 
 
 si^iit. wh'ic tifjlits, hooted and sjntrrcd, vntli a riding 
 
 habit like our frock-coats, open in front and rear. She 
 mounted her beautiful Andahisian })alfrey en hussar, and 
 away we ambled. However interesting she had previously 
 ap]»eared in our eyes, I must confess this Amazon dress 
 
269 
 
 and attitude on liorsobaclc tohiled uiucli to cOol tlie ardour of" 
 our fornier admiration, and dis[)elled that cliarni wliich a 
 delicate and elegant woman inspires when beheld in that 
 sphere and costume properly her own ; but such was the 
 custom of the country. She seemed perfectly unconscious 
 that there was anything' indecorous in her attire or manner 
 of being mounted. We proceeded out at one of the gates, 
 and rode quite round the city, along the excellent road which 
 runs at the foot of the old IMoorish walls and antique towers. 
 This we accomplished in about an hour and a half, riding 
 leisurely, so that this renowned town is not of the great 
 extent generally supposed. Indeed, exclusive of the magni- 
 licent cathedral, the Alcazar, and some other remarkably 
 fine public buildings, the city in general has a very antiquated 
 appearance, the streets being irregular and narrow. In the 
 course of our ride we observed hundreds of urchins collecting 
 the dust of the road into heaps. On in([uiring the reason, 
 we were informed that this was for the purpose of making 
 saltpetre. The dust is lixiviated at the royal manufactory, 
 and after the solution is condensed, the nitre crystallizes. 
 Strolling one evening in the gardens of the Alca;iar with my 
 companion the aide-de-camp, who was in uniform, we over- 
 heard many of the donnas loudly grumbling and making 
 bitter complaints that only one gate was now open for 
 admission, through which they were obliged to force their 
 way with the vulgar plebeian, while in the days of the king 
 all the gates were thrown open to the public, and free ingress 
 pornn'ited. All were exclaiming, " What a shame ! " while 
 many a scornful glance was cast up to what appeared to us a 
 thick wall running from the palace to a turret in the centre 
 of the gardens. 'J'his we discovered was the roval walk, 
 liaving open arches at each side, and a vaiilted roof. Here 
 his Majesty and the lioyal Family, during their occasional 
 visits, were wont to promenade, while the gardens below were 
 usually filled with the grandees, assembled to greet their 
 majesties. No royalty or courtly dames now graced this 
 elevated princely loung<\ We there observed a tall, wan- 
 
270 
 
 looking person, dressed in Spanish uniform, with a lady or 
 two attended by some plain-looking men, peeping at the 
 crowd below. Soon afterwards, this military personage came 
 hastening towards ua, and introduced himself to the aide-de- 
 camp. After almost shaking his liand off, he got him by the 
 arm, and led him towards the royal turretted summer-house. 
 I followed to see what was to be done with my friend. On 
 reaching the foot of the wall, he called up to a stout, rosy- 
 cheeked fair one, not in the sonorous noble Castilian, but, to 
 my amazement, in guid broad Scotch, '^Maggie! Maggie! this 
 is his UxccUencg's Eddy Cang, tak' care o' him, tak' care o' him! " 
 at the same time making many apologies for being obliged 
 to absent himself on urgent business. The fair one who was 
 playing the role of majesty invited the aide-de-camp to 
 mount by a stair which led up to the private walk. I after- 
 wards learned that his new friend, wlio held some situation 
 under the alcalde or keeper of the Alcazar, was a British 
 subject who had this post of honour conferred upon him for 
 distinguished services during the Peninsular War. On the 
 Alameida, which is beautifully situated on the banks of the 
 Guadalquiver, shaded and divided into collateral groves by 
 rows of trees in luxuriant foliage, we met myriads of the fair 
 Sevillanas enjoying their favourite walk. Although not so 
 richly decorated and adorned as the wealthy Gaditanas, they 
 fully equalled them in the fine symmetry of their persons 
 and elegance of costume. They informed us that when 
 Marshal Soult held his headquarters here, however much 
 they detested the enemies of their country, and however much 
 they shunned all intercourse with them, thic gallant com- 
 mander made them gay in spite of themselves. He ordered 
 a ball at his pleasure as he would do a parade, with com- 
 mands for the noblest ladies to attend, and to be ready at 
 such an hour, when his carriages would call for them, so that 
 they might have no excuse. This was doing the agreeable by 
 a coitp de main. Had they dared to absent themselves, their 
 families would probably have been proscribed and their 
 properties confiscated. But it was likewise a coup d'etat, as 
 
271 
 
 it led the other provincial towns to believe that he was on the 
 best terms with the higher circles in the city, which had no 
 small influence in keeping them quiet. 
 
 After a stay of four days in Seville, on the 28th May, 
 1813, we set out on our return, paying a visit on our way to 
 Xeres and Cadiz, and arrived at Gibraltar on the 5th June. 
 
 There being nothing particular to do at Gibraltar, I got 
 leave of absence to return home. Being intimate Ret„m to 
 with the Honourable John Rous, who was a lieu- ^"e^""'*- 
 tenant on board the Meander frigate, and the other officers, 
 they kindly offered me a passage. I had got leave on condi- 
 tion of taking chai-ge of about sixty of our men, who, being of 
 respectable parents in the different States of Germany had 
 managed, through their different ambassadors, to obtain their 
 discharge from our government. Captain Barton, M.P. for 
 Dartmouth, had the kindness to accommodate them. 
 
 We embarked on the 10th November, 1815, and made the 
 Scilly Islands after an excellent passage of nine days. iot,j ^^^ 
 Here we encountered a violent contrary gale, which ^^^^' 
 kept us beating on and off for a week. We, however, got 
 into Falmouth on the 26th, and on the gale abating we pro- 
 ceeded to Portsmouth, but were nearly lost in endeavouring 
 to pass the Needles at the Isle of Wight in misty weather. 
 We did not reach Portsmouth until the 4th December. I 
 there received a discretionary order to march the men for 
 Harwich. I chose the route through Godalming and Guild- 
 ford by London. The frost was so intense that water left 
 in a tumbler over night was a lump of ice in the morning. 
 The men having no arms or stores, I put their knapsacks into 
 a waggon, so that they marched with perfect ease, and made 
 long marches every day. On the 12th December we marched 
 through London, to the surprise of the natives seeing so many 
 men in green rifie uniform, not one of whom could speak a 
 word of English. When the order was made known at Gib- 
 r Itar, many of the men entitled to go wished to remain, and 
 others who were anxious to return home paid them a hand- 
 some sum to allow them to take their places. 
 
272 
 
 I liud a most amusing scene at Chelmsford. While sitting 
 in the col'ieu-ioom reading a newspaper, I luuird a person talk- 
 iiu;' very fast and luud in the bi'oadest Scotch dialect it was 
 possible to iniagiiio. 1 soon recognised him as a person I had 
 seen in my scIkjoI days at Al)erdeen. He was abusing, in the 
 most opprobrious terms, some native of Colchester who, he 
 alleged, had overcharged him for his passage in one of the 
 Aberdeen smacks, of which he was proprietor, and which had 
 been stranded coming down the Thames. He had offered his 
 bill for half the sum demanded, which was refused. This had 
 nettled his pride, and roused his indignation. He appeared 
 TiioKreat ^^ hiwe bccu drinking, and was publishing every 
 irmn^""" ^^w miuutcs wlio lie was, always r(;peating, "I'm 
 Aberdeen. ^^^^ ^jrfm^ JoJiii CciUo fvom Ahevdccii ! " No creature, 
 1 believe, mulerstood what he was saying but myself. All 
 crowded round to stare and listen to him. Some said he was 
 a Jew, others a Dutchman, so little did they know the great 
 John Catto. I kept looking at the paper, with my ears open. 
 Finally, his antagonist came into the room, where, after a 
 long dispute, my Xorthern friend proposed that they should 
 stand on each side of a seam in the lloorcloth, and take hold 
 uf each other's hands, and whoever should pull the other over 
 should decide the sum to be paid. Some friends settled the 
 matter, I believe, by arbitration, but the great John Catto's 
 pride was nmch humbled that his credit had been doubted. 
 He took a turn round the room to assure everybody at the 
 different tables that he was the great John Catto. Amongst 
 others he attacked me. I said, " My dear sir, I do not doubt 
 it. I know your bill is as good as an Aberdeen bank note 
 signed by J. Brand." He looked at me with astonishment, 
 and said, " D'ye ken me, man ? " "0 yes, Mr. Catto," I re- 
 plied ; " I know who you are very well." This had such an 
 effect on him that he seemed to be instantly sobered. " 
 dear ! " he exclaimed, " I didna think ony buddie kent me here. 
 This sud mak fouk wary hoo they taak afore strengers." 
 
 On the 15tli December I dined with the oilicers of the 
 47th liegiment at the Colchester barracks. On the next day 
 
273 
 
 I left the men at Harwich, and returned to London the fol- 
 lowing uioriiiuL;'. On the 21st I left London by way of 
 Oxford. There was nnicli snow on the ground, and the two 
 leaders of the coach broke loose on the road. I spent the 
 22nd at Birniinghani, inspecting the various branches of 
 manufactures. On tlie 23rd I arrived at Liverpool, and on 
 the 26th at Kendal, where there was n deep snow-storm, and 
 all the coaches were sto])ped. As I w . anxious to get on, I 
 prevailed on the postman and guard to try a post-cliaise and 
 four. They agreed, and we started. We stuck fast on the 
 long and dreary hill of Sha]). After much labour, and 
 trampling with our feet a patii for the wheels, we at last got 
 on to Penrith about three o'clock in the morning. We con- 
 tinued our way through Carlisle, and reached IJumfries on the 
 28th. 
 
 Here I was arrested by a party of many old friends of 
 my mother's family. They described to me a plot D„n,f,.ics. 
 which had been formed against my liberty. There ''^"■'^• 
 lived with the Dowager Lady Caruwath and her niece, Lady 
 Elizabeth Dalzell, a young lady, representative of an ancient 
 noble family, and lieiress in possession of the patrimony of 
 her father, but being a female she could not inherit the title, 
 which went to the male heir of line. Tilings went on satis- 
 factorily for a time, when one evening an old tabby got 
 her! 
 
 One day I received an invitation to dine with a grand 
 climacteric club. I found seated at dinner a party of ladies 
 and gentlemen to the number of about twenty-four. The 
 youngest member of the club pr<-seut was sixty-three years 
 of age, and he was called the Hoy ; many of the others were 
 from that age to nearly ninety. All wore merry and hearty. 
 I was admitted only iov the day, being a stranger. The 
 evening was spent in whist, and capital good players they 
 were, having had years of experience. 
 
 On the 3rd January, 1816, I went by Castle Douglas to 
 Kenmure Castle on a visit to my mother's cousin, Viscount 
 Kenmure. This is a most interesting, fine old place, staml- 
 
 18 
 
274 
 
 ing on a round high mound, which you ascend by a cork- 
 screw road. Loch Ken is at a short distance from the foot 
 of the mound. The grounds and gardens are quite in the 
 okl style, and well wooded with fine timber. There is 
 excellent shooting, especially large quantities of lilack 
 game. Nothing can exceed the trout-fishing in the river and 
 the numerous lakes in the vicinity, particularly Lochinvar, 
 from which Lord Kenmure derives one of his titles. New 
 Galloway is a small burgh quite under his lordship's control. 
 I was elected a burgess, and a ball was given in the Town 
 House in the evening, when my ticket was presented to 
 nie. 
 
 On the 6th January, 1816, I proceeded by Dumfries and 
 Moffat to Edinburgh, and from thence by Laurencekirk to 
 Aberdeen. At Laurencekirk I paid a visit to a famous 
 manufacturer of snuff-boxes. 1 inquired if he had any for 
 sale. He was quite indignant, and replied that the demand 
 was so great that he never had one in his shop for sale, nor 
 could I see one anywhere. However, on passing near some- 
 thing like a plate-warmer standing in front of the fireplace, 
 I by some accident gave it a jog, and out popped some half- 
 dozen boxes. He got over his former assertion by stating 
 that they were all bespoken, and that he had placed them 
 there to dry the last coat of varnish before sending them off. 
 I arrived at my father's house on the 16th January. Here I 
 received a letter from the Secretary at War, enclosing an 
 order for £120, " blood-money " for my wound, which after 
 all he was obliged to grant, as I had made my case appear so 
 clear before the Medical Board. 
 
 Having always a passion for travelling, and never having 
 Visit to ^QQii- in France, I resolved to take a trip to that 
 Prance. couutry, whicli was then particularly interesting to 
 a military man, as our army of occupation had at the 
 moment taken up a position on the frontier after the cani- 
 srdApru, paign of Paris. I sailed from Aberdeen on the 
 1816. ' 3^,^| ^pj,ji^ ^giQ rj^j^g following day was very 
 
 stormy. We observed a sloop running down upon us. It 
 
275 
 
 appeared they were in distress, and were ondeavoiiriniij to 
 run aboard of us to save themselves. Our captain, on 
 observing this, put up his huhn and stood off, to avoid 
 them. As soon as the sloop passed, ho bore up and lay 
 to. Five or six men on board the sloop were screaming for 
 assistance. We tied a buoy to a rope and it drifted under 
 the bow. Wliile some men endeavoured witli a boat-hook to 
 catch hold of it, others stripped off tin ir jackets, preparing to 
 swim. The sloop gave a lurch, and, melancholy to ^f.^^^j 
 relate, in an instant down slic went with every soul »'''pwo(if. 
 on board. We moved about over the place, but all in vain ; 
 we could see no one, and it was blowing so hard that no boat 
 could have lived. 
 
 On the 9th wc reached London, and I was recommended 
 by Dr. Guthrie to go to a lodging-house kept by Miss Inve- 
 rarity in Sackville Street. I loft London with a Frencli pass- 
 port on the 18th April, crossed from Dover on the following 
 day, and in three hours reached Calais. It appeared Franco, 
 to me that the loyalty manitestetl was ni general isio. 
 assumed, and that there was a strong and general, though 
 smothered, feeling in favour of tiie late government. The 
 general feeling of a people may be estimated from small 
 incidents as well as from public demonstrations. On paying 
 my bill on the 21st at Abbeville, I handed two Louis d'ors to 
 the landlady. On receiving them she said, " Mais, Monsieur, 
 est ce que vous n'avez pas des Napoleons ? " 1 said, " Why ! 
 is not your king a very good one ? " She shrugged her 
 shoulders, saying, " Qu'il est bon ! qu'il est grand ! qu'il est 
 gros ! " 
 
 At Amiens on the paper of the wall of the public room, 
 where we waited until tlu; horses were changed were views of 
 Paris, amongst others the triumphal arch of the Tuilleries and 
 the Place du Carousel, in which were represented the Venetian 
 horses. Some English person had written opposite to them 
 with a pencil, " lis sont partis ". A Frencliman no sooner 
 read this than he wrote under it, " Pour retourner sans doute ". 
 I was much tempted to add " J'en doute ". 
 
276 
 
 Paris was at this moment like the lull in a storm. Al- 
 though the winds which had put the waves in motion had 
 ceased, the troubled waters were still in a«^itation. The king 
 was restored; but the revolution only slumbered, ready to 
 break out, as it has done ever since. I stayed a fortnight in 
 Paris, after which, on the 6th May, 1816, I set out for 
 cambrai. Cambrai, the headquarters of the Duke of Welling- 
 ton, which I reached next day. At the table d'hote there 
 were several French gentlemen, some French officers in 
 coloured clothes, and one or two of tlie National Guard. Of 
 course there was great diversity of opinions. Some of the 
 civilians said the English were a stupid, dull set, possessing 
 no gaiety or life. The merchants complained that the 
 English had all their luxuries supplied by their own suttlers 
 from England, and that they took tlicir French additional 
 pay, but spent scarcely a franc in tiie place. The officers 
 maintained a mortified silence, while the National Guards, 
 being Royalists, talked highly of the English strength and 
 power. This so enraged one of the civilians that he ex- 
 claimed : " Notre seul province de Picardie les egorgerait tons 
 dans un moment ! " I passed through an encampment of 
 Cossacks, and arrived at Valenciennes, where I met a fine 
 young man — a French oflicer — who had been dreadfully 
 wounded at Waterloo. I also met a lady who was charged 
 with the important mission of carrying a little cur pet dog 
 from Bernadotte to Louis XVIII. On the 8th May I passed 
 over the field of Gemappes, and entered Mons. I arrived at 
 Brussels the same evening. On the 14th I visited the field 
 of Waterloo. ' 
 
 Even in those early days of the union of Belgium and 
 Holland, great discontent prevailed. I talked with the driver 
 of the cabriolet going to Waterloo. He grumbled sadly at 
 the disgrace suffered by Belgium in not being made an inde- 
 pendent State. He said that when they were united to 
 France, they had only one frontier and only one Custom- 
 house duty to pay, but now they were hennned in between 
 two tires. The Dutch, although supposed to be now of the 
 
277 
 
 same nation, would not .allow them to have an article without 
 passing their line of Custom-houses and paying duty, while 
 Fiance had also established her Custom-houses all along her 
 frontier. 
 
 On the 21st May I passed through Malines to Antwerp. 
 Next day I crossed the Scheldt, and proceeding through the 
 Tete de Flandre, arrived at Ghent in the afternoon. On the 
 2oth I went by canal to Bruges. My mother, ray aunts, and 
 my own sisters having been educated at the English convent 
 at Bruges, and being aware the altar of the convent church 
 was composed of curious marble work, I went to pay a visit 
 to the convent. On mentioning to the lay-sister showing the 
 chapel the circumstance of my family having been educated 
 in the house, she informed the nuns. The Lady Abbess very 
 politely invited me into the parlour, and mentioned that Sir 
 Richard Bedingfeld was going to dine there, and she begged 
 me that I would come to meet him. I, of course, accepted 
 the invitation. The party consisted of Sir Richard, the 
 chaplain, and myself; while one of the nuns, a viemier of one 
 of the oldest noble families in England, stood by to see that 
 the elderly lay-sister treated us with due hospitality. We 
 afterwards retired to the parlour, where the Lady Abbess, a 
 few nuns, and some young lady boarders received us, and 
 where coffee and sweetmeats were served. 
 
 On the 26th May I proceeded to Ostend by canal, and on 
 the 28th set out for Dunkerque, passing through Neuport. 
 At Fumes, it being high water, I was delayed until the tide 
 fell to allow us to pass along the sands. I took luncheon at 
 the table d'hote. The company was composed principally 
 of Belgians and refugee French olficers. From my not joining 
 at first in conversation, they did not know I was British. 
 They were carrying on a curious discussion on the merits of 
 English cavalry. We proceeded on our journey, and on an 
 imaginary line forming the frontier of France, on the sea 
 beach, we were stopped by one or two French Custom-houso 
 officers, who came down from the benty heights, but a few 
 civil words and a few sous put matters right, and we were 
 
278 
 
 allowed to proceed. We arrived at Duukerque at night, and 
 next day, the 29th May, we passed through Gravelines, and 
 reached Calais in the afternoon. 
 
 I had been recommended to go to the Lion d'Or Hotel at 
 Calais, kept by Mr. Oakshott, an Englishman. I found 
 there Major Rogers of the artillery. Captain Christie, who 
 had been aide-de-camp to General Ponsonby, who was killed at 
 Waterloo, and Captain Kerr, formerly of the 15th Hussars. 
 After dinner they were talking about the Honourable Mr. 
 Stanhope of the 12th Dragoons, wlio, having had a gambling 
 transaction at Paris with young Lord Beauchamp of not a 
 very creditable nature, had disappeared from the army with- 
 out leave. In the midst of the conversation, to the surprise 
 of all, the honourable gentleman appeared, entering the porch 
 of the inn yard accompanied by a dashing-looking female and 
 a young miss about sixteen years of age, who was leading a 
 little child by the hand. On the following day we observed 
 this young female sauntering about the passages and corridors, 
 apparently playing with the youngster. 
 
 About two o'clock in the morning of the 30th May I 
 uobbodat awoke, hearing somebody quitting my room. I 
 ^''^"'^- called out, "Who is there?" but got no answer. 
 I heard footsteps descending the stairs, and a door bang as if 
 in the basement story. I kept listening. Soon afterwards I 
 heard someone stepping upstairs again. I then heard much 
 conversation carried on in the room immediately beneath my 
 bedroom. All at once an alarm was given. The house-bells 
 began to ring in the most violent manner, and shouts of 
 " Waiter ! " resounded in the passages. I jumped out of bed 
 and ran to the staircase, where I beheld the honourable 
 gentleman's fair companion e)i dishabille, with lier hair hang- 
 ing about her face, in seeming distress, calling out, " I am 
 robbed ! I am robbed of all my jewels and money ! " Ere I 
 had time to understand what she meant, other doors flew 
 open, and people hastened with surprise from all quarters, 
 screaming, " What is the matter ? What is the matter ? " 
 On our demanding wliat ivas the matter, the lady said that 
 
279 
 
 while she was lying in bed, and the young girl and child in 
 another bed, a man had entered her chamber, taken her keys 
 from the table, and opened her trunk ; but not finding what 
 he expected there, he also opened her portmanteau and took 
 all her jewels, with fifty sovereigns in gold. That although 
 she was awake, she was too frightened to speak, but that the 
 instant he left the room she gave the alarm by ringing the 
 bell. We were much astonished, but not less so on behold- 
 ing one another, for, being midsummer, there was Tableau, 
 light enough for us to discern that some were only in their 
 shirts, some with loose cassocks, some with drawers, some in 
 petticoats, all bare-legged, and heads adorned with night- 
 caps ; but the honourable gentleman came completely dressed, 
 saying he had also been robbed of some crowns and five-franc 
 pieces. 
 
 After sympathising with the unfortunate fair one, I began 
 to have some misgivings lest I might possibly be a fellow- 
 sufferer, remembering the circumstance of someone slipping 
 out of my room, and I hurried back to my room. I remem- 
 bered previously to going to bed putting my purse with about 
 thirty Napoleons on the dressing-table, over which I laid a 
 Russian leather pocket-book, containing my passport, both 
 covered by a handkerchief, and on the top I liad placed a 
 beautiful, fine cairngorm brooch, set in gold. This and the 
 pocket-book were gone, but the purse remained, while a large 
 portmanteau was also carried off. I lost no time in descend- 
 ing to find out the landlord. I found the Swiss porter asleep. 
 On awakening him and relating the circumstances, he said 
 nobody could have gone out, and he produced the key of the 
 outer door, which was concealed under his bedclothes. He 
 opened the kitchen door, and to our astonishment there was my 
 portmanteau and that of the lady, both lying empty, and all 
 their contents strewed about the floor. The kitchen window 
 was raised about a foot. Mr. Oakshott made his appearance 
 by another door. We agreed before anything was touched that 
 the commissary of police should be sent for, as suspicions 
 began to arise that all was not right regarding our honourable 
 
280 
 
 coimtryman, who, beiiij^ the only one of us dressed, proposed 
 himself to go for the police. Some objections were made; 
 however, he insisted on going. Suspicions were increased by 
 the young girl declaring that tlie lady had not lost so much 
 as she had declared. She said, " Oh, no ! she has not. I 
 know better than she. She has not lost so much." I also 
 recollected having heard a long conversation in her room 
 before the bell rang, which was contrary to the statement she 
 had made, and also that the little miss had been exploring 
 all about the rooms on the previous day. The man-servant 
 also stated that she had been very inquisitive. 
 
 On the arrival of the police officer he paraded all the 
 persons in the hotel. The lady and I set to work in his 
 presence, each taking what belonged to us respectively. I 
 found that not an article of my clothes had been taken. The 
 only thing missing out of the portmanteau was a silver breast- 
 plate of the 29th Kegiment, which I had worn in all the 
 actions in which that corps had been engaged during the 
 Peninsular war. The lady still insisted that her valuables 
 were gone. It seemed that the object of the thieves was cash 
 and valuables; and as notes of the Bank of England were 
 then common in France, they had taken my pocket-book, 
 thinking it contained bank-notes. We not seeing Captain 
 Kerr, someone said, " Let us go and tell him ". On entering 
 his room we found it in great disorder, while he was still 
 asleep. On awakening him, he found that his gold watch 
 and valuable chain, his purse, and his pocket-book were gone. 
 The drawer of the dressing-glass, containing many trinkets 
 and his Waterloo medal, was also carried off. While we were 
 condoling with him, the landlord entered with a handkerchief 
 containing one hundred Napoleons, which he had fortunately 
 given him the previous day to keep for him. The Com- 
 missary, on ^.earning all the particulars, also entertained 
 suspicions of these personages, and he placed spies to watch 
 their motions. We all resolved not to quit the house until 
 some solution of this mysterious robbery transpired. The 
 honourable gentleman, however, and liis female friends made 
 
281 
 
 preparations to start for Boulogne, and the police sent off 
 their agents also ; and just as tliey were driving out of the 
 yard they were stopped. The police carried all their baggage 
 into the hotel again and searched it. They found the lady in 
 possession of the valuables which she declared she had lost • 
 but as they found none of the stolen articles upon them, they 
 allowed them to proceed, sending a police agent to watch 
 them. 
 
 [Note by the P. D.-Did nobody think of locking their 
 doors ? Or perhaps there were no keys !] 
 
PART V.-1816-1832. 
 
 I ARRIVED at Dover after a passage of five hours on the 1st 
 June, 1816. The tide not being sufficiently high to admit of 
 the packet entering the harbour, we landed in an open boat, 
 without seeing a Custom-house or Revenue officer of any kind. 
 We might have smuggled to any amount. Next morning, as 
 we were getting on the coach, I observed a smart, active, lady- 
 like little woman busily engaged in superintending the 
 stowing away of baggage in a travelling carriage. The same 
 carriage, with four horses, overtook us before we reached 
 Canterbury. The lady put her head out of the window, and 
 nodded, saying, " I'll give you the go-by, and will be in 
 London before you ". This was the Countess of Clare. 
 
 On arriving in London I learned that the eighth battalion 
 of the GOth Eifles was to be reduced, but by my seniority in 
 the list of captains in the regiment it would only have the 
 effect of removing me to another battalion. I waited on our 
 Colonel, Sir James Kempt, who very kindly arranged at the 
 Horse Guards that my leave of absence should be extended 
 until the reduction took place, as the men were to be drafted 
 to the fifth, or rifle battalion, which had then gone out to 
 Gibraltar. 
 
 On the 13th June I sailed from London on board a 
 smack, arrived at Aberdeen on the 20th, and found my 
 brother James home from Jamaica. 
 
 I got notice to repair to London early in July. On the 
 6th July I sailed from Aberdeen, and arrived in London on 
 the 13th. On going to the Horse Guards, the Adjutant- 
 General was kind enough to give me the choice of any of the 
 seven battalions of the 60th Regiment. I chose the second 
 
283 
 
 battalion, then in Canada ; but afterwards meeting a friend of 
 mine intimate with the Earl of Dalhousie, who was appointed 
 Governor of Novia Scotia, he urged mo to go there, saying he 
 was sure his lordship would show me every attention, as he 
 
 would get the Marquess of H to give mo letters of 
 
 introduction. I accordingly got permission at the Horse 
 Guards to exchange with a captain wlio wished to go to 
 Canada. 
 
 On the 12th August, 1816, I proceeded with another 
 captain to Gravesend, where tlie lioyal Charlotte, His 
 Majesty's ship, was lying. She not being ready to sail as 
 reported, we were obliged to remain at the Inn, We em- 
 barked on the 19th, and sailed for the Isle of Wight. On 
 the 23rd, we arrived at Cowes. The same afternoon the 
 detachment, consisting of a few men and a number of officers 
 and their families, embarked, a large part of the g^yto 
 hold being fitted up for their accommodation. A ^'^*^»''' 
 number of officers and myself, having a choice of quarters, 
 agreed to mess with the captain, and we had a magnificent 
 cabin and a jolly party. 
 
 We arrived at Halifax, North America, on the 26 th 
 September, 1816. I reported myself to Lieutenant- 
 Colonel Bouvere, an old Frenchman, commanding the 
 second battalion, which had arrived a short time before from 
 the West Indies. Never in the annals of military ^ ^^^^ 
 records or arms was such a battalion seen. From '^t'*^""- 
 the regiment having been raised to serve exclusively in 
 America, they were termed the Royal Americans ; and an act 
 having been passed declaring the West Indian Islands in that 
 continent, it became, from there being no chance of ever 
 serving in England, to all intents and purposes a condemned 
 corps. Hence there was no difficulty in anyone 
 getting a commission in it. Young men of money tho second 
 or interest on getting a commission in the regiment, eotu ucgt- 
 or obtaining promotion in it, were always certain 
 that they could effect an exchange into some other more select 
 corps which wished to get quietly rid of a black sheep. The 
 
2ft4 
 
 nunibur of battalions also iucronsod thr evil. When an 
 ollicer committed a misdemeanour, ho was permitted to try 
 his luck by exchanging with an oflicer of another battalion, 
 who, perhaps, was obliged to do so under similar circum- 
 stances. If one might judge of the subaltern ollicer.s of the 
 second battalion when I joined it, the majority seerncd the 
 concentration of all the worst from the others, and the men 
 were old drunkards who had spent their best days in tlKJ West 
 Indies. There were several officers under arrest for every 
 crime in the Calendar of Newgate. These officers dared their 
 
 commanding officer B to bring them to triiil, alleging that 
 
 they would produce charges of embezzlement against himself. 
 
 This was a pretty prospect for me, I could have got 
 transferred to the seventh battalion, which had been raised on 
 the same principle as the eighth, fine, steady, men, and all 
 the officers either persons who had distinguished tliem.selves 
 in the Peninsular War, or of the best families in England. 
 Sir George Murray was the Colonel of this Ijattalion of liitles, 
 and a better appointed regiment was not to be found in any 
 service, but they were under orders to be reduced, as their 
 predecessors the eighth had been. This was a great mistake. 
 Had these two battalions been kept up, by merely changing 
 their numbers to first and second, and the ill-organised bat- 
 talions disbanded, an immense improvement v/ould have been 
 made, and a decidedly more ett'ective force preserved. The light 
 company of the second battalion was a rifle company, and the 
 Colonel, fortunately for me, and without any solicitation on my 
 part, put me in orders as its commanding officer, as the duty 
 and exercise were different from those of the battalion. 
 Being aware that in. a few months the contemplated reduction 
 would sweep away the seventh battalion, I became more recon- 
 ciled to my situation, particularly as the Earl of Dalhousie, 
 the Governor, had been pleased to show me particular attention. 
 
 The first province which I had the good fortune to visit 
 HaUfax ^as Nova Scotia : the very name at once endeared 
 NovaScotia. ^^ ^ ^g gg ^jj qJ^j friend, in reminding me of my 
 native land. Nor was I disappointed on further acquaintance 
 
285 
 
 with my transatlantic country, having the gratification of 
 finding tlint this infant state was making rapid strides in 
 improvement, under the benevolent sway of an excellent 
 nobleman, the Earl of Dalhousie. Trade was rapidly reviving: 
 agiiculture, long neglected, received a new impetus, and 
 started into vigorous activity by the wisdom of his Lordship's 
 measures and the energy of his administration ; while, under 
 tlic inilnenc(i of his amiable and intelligent Countess, society 
 took a higher and more polished tone, and many institutions 
 for charitable purposes or feminine instruction were founded, 
 promoted, or improved. 
 
 I reached these western shores after the intense heats of 
 summer had subsided, succeeded by bright sunshine and 
 serene cloudless skies. This period is aptly termed the 
 Indian sunniier; because during this benignant i,,^,,,^^ 
 season these wild hunters roam their native forests *"•"'"<"■• 
 and more distant prairies, in search of those fierce animals 
 which ailord the richest peltries, ]iy this trade these children 
 of nature supply their wants for the long winter, procure 
 objects of luxury for the nobles of Europe, and comfortable 
 trappings for the natives of all ranks, against the severity of 
 the inclement season. The appearance of the country during 
 this period is remarkably beautiful. The sharp nocturnul 
 frosts, changing the verdant foliage of the extensive forests, 
 produce the richest and most variegated tints, in which 
 orange and red predominate. Winter now advances apace ; 
 the transition is most rapid : to the surprise of the stranger, 
 he finds some night in October that the snow has fallen, 
 covering fields and i'orests to an immense depth, Aft(ir a 
 few days the sky becomes again serene — the sun recovers 
 his wonted brilliancy ; and with the exception of some 
 occasional interruptions, and some additional falls of snow 
 at times, so continues until the month of April. 
 
 A general metamorphosis in the appearance of dress, 
 costumes, and equipages now takes place ; but the Canadian 
 cold, although V( ry intense, is in reality but little ^'"*'=''- 
 felt, so excellent are the arrangements within doors and 
 
286 
 
 without for obviating its effects. Furs in the shape of caps, oar- 
 covers, cloaks, and gloves, in addition to those articles of the 
 material usually worn by European belles, come into universal 
 requisition ; with snow-boots made of carpet stuff of the 
 gayest colours, for driving, or mocassins and creepers for 
 walking. These mocassins are made of a sort of chamois 
 leather, prepared in a particular manner by the Indians, and 
 neatly embroidered in fancy figures, with porcupine quills of 
 brilliant colours. These have the advantage of being light, 
 and at the same time of keeping the feet remarkably warm ; 
 and being in some degree impervious to water, one may walk 
 in the snow without the risk of getting damp feet. The 
 creepers are flat pieces of iron, with sharp prongs under each 
 end, and are fastened on with straps, like a spur, which 
 enables one to walk witli ease on the most slippery paths.* 
 All wheeled carriages are now abandoned. Sleighs of elegant 
 forms are introduced, single and double, handsomely and 
 comfortably fitted up with hanging robes of bear, tiger, or 
 lynx skins, having a large buffalo hide or cover over all. 
 The whole of these are neatly ornamented with scarlet 
 borders, fringes, &c., with the heads and claws of the ferocious 
 animals dangling around ; so that the lover or his rival may 
 literally have a lynx-eyed monster constantly staring him in 
 the face, as if watching his diversions. These sleighs, filled 
 with Mjantes and driven by monstrous-looking exquisites, 
 muffled up to the eyes, are seen dashing along at a wonderful 
 pace, some drawn by one horse, otliers by two, either 
 abreast or tandem. They glide along so smoothly, that, in 
 order to give warning of their approach, bells are attached to 
 the horses' heads, the tinkling of whicli has a lively and 
 pleasant effect. Invalids and families going to evening 
 parties have their close carriages removed from the wheels 
 and placed on runners. 
 
 Many of the best houses, being built entirely of wood, 
 might be imagined to be cold and comfortless ; but, extra- 
 ordinary as it may appear, they are much drier and warmer in 
 
 * Why not introduced into this country ? 
 
287 
 
 winter and cooler in summer than those built of stone, which 
 is accounted for by the stratum of air which occupies the 
 vacant spaces between the outside clap-boards on the frame 
 and the inside lining of lath and plaster. This prevents the 
 great heat in summer from entering, and the warmth created 
 inside in winter from escaping. The plan adopted to counter- 
 act the effects of the intense frost is very effective, and is 
 accomplished by having a large stove in the entrance-ball, 
 the Hues of which are conducted by the staircase to the top of 
 the house. One never feels chilled in goi.ig along passages 
 or from one chamber to another. 
 
 The brilliant winter had now seriously commenced ; 
 society began its merry sway ; feasting and amuse- Society and 
 ments became the only possible occupations. Ihe inonts. 
 labours of agriculture were at a stand — all military exercises 
 had ceased — the course of busy trade and commerce was 
 frozen up, but the stream of warm-hearted hospitality, in 
 seeming inverse ratio to the intensity of the weather, began 
 to overflow. Many of the inhabitants who were very 
 wealthy, kept up a constant round of entertainments, 
 dinners, balls, &c., in continued succession. The festivities 
 at the Government House were on the most liberal and ex- 
 tended scale. His Excellency held levees on certain public 
 days, and gave two public dinners each week, to which the 
 civil authorities were invited in rotation ; while her Ladyship 
 had generally a public night once a week, exclusive of grand 
 balls and suppers on particular occasions. Nor did these 
 public festivities interrupt their own private society: they 
 saw a numerous circle of friends in a constant succession of 
 dinners, musical soirees, quadrille parties, &c. These were 
 very select, including various young noblemen, who happened 
 to be doing duty with their corps, or in vessels of war on the 
 station. Admiral G , with Lady W , the Commis- 
 sioner, the Bishop, the Secretary of the Province, and nume- 
 rous heads of departments, gave frequent and most agreeable 
 parties. Nor did the judges of the land fail to contribute to 
 the general harmony, as everyone well knows who has en- 
 
288 
 
 joyed the aquaintance of the Honourable Judge Haliburton, 
 whose flow of wit enlivened every society. The Military and 
 Navy, resolved not to be deemed ungrateful, gave occasional 
 files de hal, exclusive of frequent entertainments during the 
 winter. The harbour being frozen over, the ships of war 
 were prepared accordingly for the rigour of the season, being 
 brought close to the wharfs, and covered in by wooden sheds 
 erected over them, with stoves placed in various parts, so as 
 not only to render them comfortable habitations, but also 
 scenes of gaiety, by occasional performances of amateur plays 
 and fancy balls. 
 
 All these parties were graced and enlivened by the 
 presence of many of our fair countrywomen and 
 their American sisters. The latter proved as amiable 
 as they are famed for personal charms. They are endowed 
 with great natural abilities and lively dispositions. Many 
 are extremely well-informed — all are eager in search of 
 information ; and though absorbed too much in local ideas 
 and provincial habits, they are, in general, by no means 
 deficient in polite feeling and gentle manners. Many, on 
 returning from visits to England or France, had attained the 
 elegant acquirements and easy good-breeding of the most 
 relined sphere of life. Halifax may justly pride itself on the 
 beauty of its daughters. They have fine complexions, lit up 
 by soft blue eyes. Their peculiar charms of countenance 
 have been attiibuted to the humidity of the climate, which is 
 liable to frequent fogs during summer; and it certainly 
 would appear that this dampness of atmosphere does impart 
 a softness and clearness of complexion to the female features, 
 as may be observed under similar circumstances in the sweet 
 faces of our own Devonshire and Lancashire witches. But, 
 however much the peculiarity of this transatlantic climate 
 may tend to improve the features, it is, unfortunately, not 
 attended with the same permanent effects as in England. It 
 seems rather to have a fatal influence : a premature decay of 
 teeth and youthful bloom indicates that beauty here too often 
 proves, indeed, a fading flower. 
 
28'J 
 
 Intellectual rtiuuseineiits were not wanting during the 
 prolonsed and dreary season. Amongst others, an inteiioctuai 
 exeellent amateur theatre under tlie patronagf! of ments. 
 the Countess of Dalhousie was estahlished for weekly per- 
 formances. It was admirably conducted under the skilful 
 
 management of (Joloncl C . It boasted of many artists, 
 
 whose superior dramatic powers woulil have enabled them to 
 shine as fu'st-rato actors on any stage. .Vmongst the many 
 were the distinguished Sir E. Parry, Captain Ueechy, and, 
 alas ! poor Joe I>owers. He, merry soul ! a miildy in a 
 
 vessel commanded by Lord J. II , possessed talents of the 
 
 most humorous, comical cast. It was said that he was 
 foster-broth<>r to the Princess Charlotte, anil — a coincidence 
 indeed — he was cut off by a fit of apoi)lexy on the very day 
 that closed upon all that was earthly of that lamented 
 Princess. 
 
 The morning amusements generally consisted in large 
 assemblages of fashionables uniting in sleighing parties and 
 driving through various parts of the city. Lady Dalhousie 
 used to patronise this sport very nmch — frequently making 
 up parties to visit some of the romantic lakes in the vicinity, 
 where the ice is generally smooth as glass. These excursions 
 afford such health antl pleasure, that, although the rigour of 
 the season may pinch the toes or freeze a linger — thougii 
 even a nose may be frost-bitten — there are no cold hearts. 
 
 Many a matrimonial union has connnenced on these icy 
 expeditions ; and one case which had taken an un- a uint to 
 
 1 11 i> 1 1 • iiiatch- 
 
 toward turn was brought to a successful conclusion miikors. 
 in an extraordinary manner. A gallant major had been very 
 attentive in offering a place in his elegant cariole to the beauti- 
 ful Miss B : the offer was always accepted. This daily 
 
 attention went on for a great part of tlie season : however, 
 rumours reached the fiimily that the gay Lothario was about 
 to take his departure for England. Tlie mamma became 
 alarmed; the young lady was in despair. The ma_j<jr was 
 called to an account by the sons, who demanded, of course, 
 
 what his intentions were. He declared that his only motive 
 
 19 
 
200 
 
 had been coinmon politeness in return for the many friendly 
 civilities he had experienced from the family. The major 
 was denounced as a false man, abused and cut by the ladies, 
 who unanimously took part with the disappointed fair one. 
 The major'a ^^ happened one day, he having occasion to pass tl»e 
 ijorae. house, that his horse must needs bring up at the 
 
 dooi", according to the established custom. The major 
 whipped, swore, pulled, and tugged, but all without effect. 
 The obstinate brute was determined not to budge ; he could 
 not be flogged out of his sense of the fact that there he was 
 
 on 
 
 to stop. This ludicrous difference of opinion between the 
 liorse and his master brought the ladies to the windows, the 
 servants to the door, and the old gentleman at last to offer 
 assistance. This awkward dilemma and a pitiless snow- 
 storm induced the major to take the prollered shelter. So 
 much kindness awakened his slumbeiing and tender sym- 
 l)atliies. The former friendly intercourse was renewed, and 
 h(; soon afterwards became a Benedict, blest with a lovely 
 wife. Match-makers may take a lesson from the instinct of a 
 horse. 
 
 The ladies in the transatlantic provinces, but more espe- 
 Fiishion in ciallv amougst their neighbours in the United States, 
 
 the New u o o » 
 
 World. have decidedly the advantage of the gentlemen in 
 personal appearance and manners. The lords and masters of 
 these charming fair ones, however acute their understandings, 
 however sharp-witted they may be in driving a bargain, are 
 not endowed in general with any very particular pei'sonal 
 attributes. Mistaking familiarity for easy address, they assume, 
 without, I believe, meaning to be offensive, an abrupt, blunt 
 style of independence'; and, having had little or no experience 
 in the great world, they are often conceited and opinionative. 
 It is needless to remark that they are proverbially inquisitive 
 and curious in prying into the affairs of others, constantly 
 thinking, not only for themselves, but also for you — by 
 eternally " guessing " or " expecting " that you are this or that, 
 or going hither or thither. All these blemishes arise from their 
 secluded situation. Local habits and the democratic state of 
 
society are coiiscqiKMitly tluur misfortune ratlier than their 
 fault, for tliey possess many sterling John T)ull qualities — 
 high patriotism, undaunleil bravery, enter))rising dispositions, 
 and determiiUHl perseverance in overcoming dilUculties ; they 
 are most ingenious in contrivances, liandy at all work, and 
 frequently hosi)itable and kind-heartt'd to strangers. Numbers, 
 however, wlio have visited Kuropc; ii;iv(> ac(iuired more ex- 
 tended notions, and attaini'd the [)olished manners and address 
 of well-bred gentlemen. Many of ihc 15ritish-l)orn inhabitants 
 are no exceptions to some of the above observations: having 
 left the mother country in search of fortune, they ])egiin the 
 world with but small means, and, by industry and enterprise, 
 particularly during the war, as |)rize agents, accumulated con- 
 siderable wealth. J>ut while some retain their former simpli- 
 city of manners, others, not a little [)urse-proud, endeavour to 
 ape those of more relined attainments; their original ideas 
 and habits, however, and their jxirroiKc style are but too 
 evident. The nuMubers of the House of Parliament, who are 
 principally returned from the iliflerent settlements, are ol' all 
 classes. Many are shrewd, well-meaning men, while others 
 are of a very original cast. As an illustration of the manners 
 and habits of the latter, the following may sufhce : — 
 
 At one of the entertainments usually given by the Govern(n' 
 to the members, one of these representatives was dis- 
 appointed at not getting "sling" — cold water and rum — 
 to drink at dinner in place of wine, according to Yankee 
 usage. On the finger-basins being placed on the table, he, 
 immediately imagining that tiiis was his favourite beverage, 
 hastily seized the glass and gulped down the pure contents. 
 Horror-stricken to find tbat it was an entirely aqueous element, 
 and mortified at his mistake, he, with a strong expression of 
 surprise, looked round to the servant, ami, handing Ijack the 
 empty vessel, said: " jVIy friend, when you bring me that 
 again, do not forget to put a little rum into it ". 
 
 In no country does there exist a greater degree of nation- 
 ality nuiintained with more fervour tlian in these; our colonies. 
 This is especially the case with the Scotch and Irish, or their 
 
292 
 
 descendants. The Scotch, imbued with an innate love of 
 country, never forget their native land and its social recollec- 
 tions. They cherish these with the fondest allection ; and the 
 festival day of their patron, St. Andrew, is connneniorated 
 with all due honour. The Scotcli Society, instituted for 
 benevolent purposes, and of infinite benefit to thousands of 
 poor emigrants, celebrates this occasion with a festive dinner, 
 at which his Excellency the Governor and all the authorities 
 assist. None ol the essentials requisite to constitute a true 
 "'Auld Lang Syne" feast are omitted ; nor is St. Patrick's Day 
 less splendidly connneniorated Ijy tlu; warm-hearted Trisli : 
 indeed the enthusiasm displayed on this annivei'sary is not 
 exceeded in old Ireland itself. 
 
 Notwithstanding the rigour of the winter, the innnitioii 
 de hoxichc and all the requisites for good living are in no part 
 of the world more plentifully found, more varied in kind, 
 more excellent in quality, or more reasonable in price, than 
 in this province at all seasons of the year, llidifax being a 
 free port, one may command, in addition to (lie necessaries 
 the country affords and the good things imported from England, 
 the choicest fruits and wines of Erance, Portugal, Madeira, 
 &c., which are the common beverage ; while the West Indies 
 supply numerous luxuries, such as turtle, pine-apples, pre- 
 serves, &c., sutlicient to satiate the palate of the most distin- 
 guished gourmand. 
 
 The gaieties of tlie merry season are unfortunately at times 
 attended with gravities. jMany of the houses, being of wood, 
 are liable to accidents from fii^e. How often after a ball, 
 perhaps at the dead hour of night, have our peaceful slumbers 
 been disturbed by the bugle sounding the alarm, accompanied 
 by piercing cries of fire from the inhabitants. On such dis- 
 tressing occasions the military must instantly turn out, which 
 is done with surprising alacrity; and were it not for their 
 timely and skilful assistance most serious damage to the 
 town but too often might accrue, as not onlv single houses 
 but even the whole side of a street may be in flames ; and the 
 heat is frequently so intense, that even the opposite side will 
 
293 
 
 siuldoiily burst into flames. Tlio .i;'rcat misery is that these 
 calamities ahiiost always occur in winter, owing to the number 
 of stoves and ilucs required in that season. It becomes a most 
 severe duty to the soldiers to hand the water along, often 
 from a great distance, while the thermometer is usually far 
 below zero. I have seen a bucket of water dashed at an idle 
 looker-on who refused to work. He was instantly covered 
 with a crust or coat of icy armour, and appeared glittering in 
 the silvery light of the moon, like an ancient chivalrous knight 
 in his midniglit watchings. 
 
 About April the welcome spring bounds in at a leap. To 
 the frigid cold a genial warmth suddenly supervenes, succeeded 
 by a rapid thaw. This transition and the pleasing change in 
 the face of nature are most extraordinary : dormant vegetation 
 revives, the ground is quickly covered with luxuriant herbage 
 of the richest verdure, trees bud and blossom in an incredibly 
 short space of time, and are in full foliage ere the snow has 
 disappeared from the valleys or places shaded from the sun, 
 which has now a most powerful inllueuce, and before another 
 month has passed over summer has commenced. Sportsmen 
 lose no time in resuming their rural diversions. Picnics and 
 Hshing [)arties to the beautiful sequestered lakes, where the 
 finest red trout inuiginable all'ord excellent sport, become 
 frequent, and were so nnich the fashion that a regular club 
 was established, under the patronage of the Karl of Dal- 
 housie and the gallant Adnnral Sir 1). Milne. Many scions 
 of noble blood, valiant knights and baronets, were amongst 
 
 its members, including Lords 11 , M , John H , 
 
 Frederick Lennox, Henry Th , Schomberg Kerr, (S:c., the 
 
 gallant Sir J. G , Sir <T. L , &c. This agreeable re- 
 union continued for sevp)'al seasons. Never was there a more 
 harmonious or a better regulnted social meeting. A bivouac 
 was erected or a marquee piiched in some romantic spot ; 
 dinners and choice bcveiages were provided, and so much 
 were the vocal powers of the mendjers in requisition that 
 the cognomen of the " Tol de IJol " club was unanimously 
 adopted. One member, the worthy and witty Mr. Lawson, 
 
2U4 
 
 who had in his youth spent niudi of Iiis time when engaged 
 in tlie fur trade with tlie wihl tribes of Indians in the forest, 
 used to entertain us with a rcprosontation of the terrific war- 
 song and dance of death as jiractised by those savages previous 
 to their scalping a victim. So entirely did he enter into the 
 spirit of the exhibition that, in imitating their wild caporings, 
 ferocious gestures, low grunt ings and yells, he worked himself 
 apparently into a frenzy, and, when suiliciently excited to 
 consumnuite the tragedy, would conclude, at the expense of 
 some of the new mendjcrs or strangers, by suddenly seizing 
 one by the hair of the head and running his linger round the 
 scalp, much to their horror and astonishment. A most 
 «n.i„ino-.i ludicrous scene of this kind occurred with a .Scotch 
 inpor. ])iper, who had attended to play after dinner. He 
 
 was exhibiting the musical j)owers of his noisy chanter, and 
 strutting about with much national pride, when Mr. Lawson 
 commenced his savage display. The child of the mountains 
 was at first much delighted, and seemed llattered, thiid^ing 
 the dancing was inspired by his sonorous strains ; but when 
 he himself became the object of the practical part of the 
 scaljjing operation, the poor j^iper, surprised and horror- 
 struck, uttered a piercing shriek, came to the ground as if 
 he had iictually been felled by a murderous tomahawk, and 
 had he not been overcome with faintness through fright, he 
 no doubt would have lied, abandoning his dear ])ipes, bonnet, 
 and all, to the mercy of the good-humoured member who had 
 so unceremoniously assailed him. 
 
 As a consequence of the reduction of the GOth Eegiment from 
 eight battalions to two, I came within the sphere of reduction. 
 ]5eing aboutto be placed on half-pay, myname disappeared from 
 the Army List in December, 1819; and my gallant friend, Sir 
 James Gordon (Wardhouse), who was about to proceed to Eng- 
 iiotiiriito land, had been kind enough to oiler me a passage in 
 i;ii-i:uui. -ijjg cabin, which I gladly accepted ; but Lord Dal- 
 housie said, with his usual kindness, that as the ofhcer had 
 not arrived to replace me, and there were so few captains to 
 do duty, he would take the responsibility of delaying my 
 
295 
 
 departure, as something might turn up in the meantime to 
 my advantage. He had ah'eady sent to the Horse Guards 
 my memorial and statement of services, with a strong re- 
 commendation for their favourable consideration, and he 
 accordingly put me in geuer.al orders to remain. 
 
 However, in a few months afterwards, in June, 1820, the 
 Earl of Dalhousie was appointed Governor-General of Canada; 
 and on his being relieved of tlie command in Halifax by Sir 
 James Kempt, he was kind enough to ask me what I wished 
 to do, or what he could do for me. I then begged to be 
 allowed to go home in the first packet, which was readily 
 granted. 
 
 We sailed in the Cainhdm, Captain Tilly, and although 
 my companions were not numerous, tliey were rather extra- 
 ordinary. One was Ilaniee Samee, the famous Indian juggler ; 
 another was a squat, stout, Irish friar, who had been stationed 
 as a missionary in Newfoundland, but as he had shown a 
 great propensity to hoard up the mammon of iniquity, and 
 had realised a large sum contrary to the rules of his order, 
 tlie bishop had suspended him, and ordered him to refund a 
 due proportion to the poor fishermen from whose earnings he 
 had acquired his ill-gotten wealth. He was on his way to 
 some convent in Europe to do penance for his offence, 
 liamee was very particular in inquiring at the steward 
 every day before he touched any meat, to know 
 whether it was beef or not, that being prohibited food for 
 him. The steward, aware of his religious prejudices, invari- 
 ably swore that every bullock was a lamb, but Rameo, in case 
 of accidents, had laid in a private stock of pickled salmon, 
 fruit, &c. 
 
 After a pleasant enough voyage, as we were approaching 
 the land, I observed that all our common ware was changed 
 into sets of the very richest real china, and that the p^ knowing 
 Captain's wife, who was on board, was daily getting ^'''^" 
 stouter and stouter. She seemed to be rapidly getting on in 
 a most thriving way. We at length arrived at Falmouth, on 
 the 16th Jidy, 1820. Previous to my departure, I called at 
 
2'.)G 
 
 the Captain's house to thank him for his clvUities while on 
 board. I fonud liis wife ania/ingly altered. All her en bon 
 point had disapi)eared. The mystery was explained by luok- 
 infj round the roont. There lay about Indian muslins, &c., 
 and the superb china was displayed. She had managed to 
 pass £500 worth of valuables without any inquisitive Custom- 
 liousn olhcer offering to incpiire for }Iis Majesty's duty. 
 
 We proceeded to Plymouth, through Tenryn and Truro, 
 England. The licatli and stone walls of Cornwall put me in 
 mind of old Caledonia. IJeing accpiaintcd with some of the 
 Engineer otiicers in the garrison, I had been viewing the works, 
 and it being warm, they requested me to enter the mess-room 
 and take a glass of wine and water. On handing me a news- 
 paper, the very first article which I looked at was my own 
 name in the Oazrttc, as having been brought in on full pay 
 into my corps again, in exchange with another captain. This 
 was an unexpected good fortune for me, particularly as it was 
 without my giving a difference. The captain next above me 
 had a short time before given £500 to come in again on full 
 pay. 
 
 On the 25th July, I went to London. On waiting on the 
 military secretary, the amiable Sir H. Taylor, t(^ thank 
 him for my reappointment, he siiid that he was happy in 
 having had it in his power to serve me, but that he was 
 not entitled to all the merit, and that I must wait on H.IJ.H. 
 the Duke of York, as the person to whom I owed my 
 good fortune. Accordingly, the next levee day I did my- 
 self that honour. His lioyal Highness was most gracious, 
 giving me a very ilattering reception, and he said that 
 the report of my services and the reconnnendations of the 
 generals under whom I had served had entitled me to his 
 favourable notice. He was also pleased to give me six 
 months' leave of absence. 
 
 Having it in my choice either to return to the second 
 is-21. battalion of the (JOth Ifegimcnt at Halifax or to join 
 
 the iirst battalion in (A\nada, I preferred the latter, being most 
 anxious to vi.sit that part of America. On the 12th May 1 
 
'J VI 7 
 
 Siiik'd fur TiOndoii, and iivvivcil tliorc on tlic IStli ; I then 
 procuedod to tlio Isle of Wiylit. On llu! '.i(li June, ti troop- 
 sin']) Ijein^' prepared, 1 j^ot the eonmiiuid of liOD men, princi- 
 ])ally (lernians, for our hattalion, and about the same number 
 for tlie other regiments in (Janada, and eml)ar]<ed at Cowes. 
 
 \Vi! saih'd from Cowes on the 11th dune, 1821, and 
 entered tlie St. Lawrenee on the oOth. After entering Ciuiiiau. 
 tlie Crulf of St. r.awrence, and passing the barren Isle of 
 Anticosti, tlu; dark mountains above (laspe are discerned 
 on the left, the iirst oi'i<jinal settlement of the French in these 
 northern regions. As one eontinues to ascend, the shores 
 become percei)tible on either hand, indicating that we arc 
 now on the magniticent I'iver St. Lawrence. iVt intervals we 
 pass numerous rich, fertile, ;ind verdant islands, while the 
 country (jn the left hand, being cleared of wood, and dotted 
 with white villages glittering in the noonday sun, from the 
 roofs of the buildings and the steeples of the churches being 
 covered with tin, presents a smiling and livi'ly appearance, 
 particularly IJaniaraska, which is a fashionalde resort as a 
 bathing (piarter. On rounding the upi)er point of the Island 
 of Orleans, a ]ierfect garden in itself, one beholds one of the 
 finest views that the woi'ld aflbrds. On the right is the 
 stupendous fall of ^lontmorenci, the immense volume of 
 water droi)ping like a curtain two bundled feet perpendicular. 
 In front (^)uebec is seen gradually rising from the water in 
 the form of an amphitheatre, with its cathedral, churches 
 spires, convents, the castle of St. Louis, and the commanding 
 citadel on its rocky site, I'rowning defiance. The town is 
 situated on a point of land formed by the junction of the 
 river St. Charles with the St. Lawrence. From the low 
 marshy bed of the former the land rapidly recedes until it 
 reaches the citadel posted on an elevated rocky summit, 
 which on the other side is almost perpendicular down to the 
 St. Lawrence, which washes its base. The grand river is 
 here much nari'owed by I'oint Le^•i, which juts out, so that it 
 is scarcely one mile broad. On landing at the connnodious 
 wharf in the lower town, the curious traveller threads his way 
 
208 
 
 up the declivities and steep streets to the liiiflier ref,'ions, 
 where the seat of governiiient is, and vvealLli and fashion 
 hold their sway. 
 
 On gaining the citadel, which is constructed on the most 
 approved j)rinciple of fortification, the stranger is amply 
 giatified by a most extensive view of splendid scenery. 
 Looking to the north-east, he beholds the city lying at his 
 feet: on the right hand, far below, he looks down on the 
 grand river covered with vessels, and Point Levi, on the 
 o])posite shore, covered with villas and gardens. On the 
 left hand he surveys in the distance the blue mountains 
 beyond the river St, Charles, covered with elevated forests, 
 while from their base to the environs of the town he con- 
 templates a finely cultivated country ad(jrned with pleasant 
 seats. On turning round and looking west, the scene of 
 Wolfe's triumph lies before him. There are the plains of 
 Abraham, now under cultivation, and at some distance 
 beyond is a capital race-course. In short, the surrounding 
 romantic scenery may be equalled, but certainly not exceeded 
 either by Naples or Edinburgh. The town is also worthy of 
 notice. The fortifications, as far as nature and art can make 
 them, are most imposing, and almost impregnable. The 
 streets are regular, the houses chieily of stone, and 
 painted, which gives a lively appearance to the place. 
 Quebec being the seat of government, the presence of the 
 Governor-General gives a tone and greater Ijrilliancy to the 
 society than what is usually expected to be met with in the 
 colonies. 
 
 I proceeded up the liver St. Lawrence in a steamer, and 
 joined the first battalion, GOth liegiment, on the 19th July, 
 1821, at Montreal. 
 
 Montreal is situated on an extensive island formed by 
 Clubs, the St. Lawrence and a branch of the Ottawa, but 
 
 aiiii'^cero!'''' ill it ppcarauce there is nothing very remarkable. 
 Sinada.- Hospitality has here, as in all parts of America, 
 lontreai. unbounded sway during the winter. But society is 
 on a different footing, as it is in Canada in general, than in 
 
209 
 
 any ntlur piut of llie New WovUl. It is dividoil: there are 
 two distinct races — Canadian French, and Kn;-;lish or Anglo- 
 Anierican. The loiincr, wlio arc descendants of the ori<,'inal 
 French, anil many of tJKMn connected with some of the ohlcst 
 nohility in France, still love to retain the fendal system. 
 Tlu!H(! sei^n(nirs, with their nnnierons vassals, cling with extra- 
 ordimuT jtertinacity to all the notions, hahits, and opinions 
 of the old reijimc. As lords of the soil, they camiot brook 
 the idea of hcconiing traders; nor will they in general ever 
 condescend to mix with the sons of commerce ; while the 
 latter, being active, adventurous, and enterprising, are 
 accumulating wealth, acquiring prosperity, and living ex- 
 travagantly. In all mercantile communities wealth constitutes 
 a })atent of nol)ility : hence all here who are rich, or by a 
 ja'ofuse style of living appear to be so, are deemed fashionables 
 and hdAit ton, and eclijise the old noblcn^c — however inferior 
 in lineage, manners, and address; consef|uently, heart-burnings, 
 bickerings, and jealousy exist to a serious degree between the 
 two races. 
 
 To us, who were birds of passage, it was fun to hear both 
 sides ; we enjoyed alternately their good fare, without mixing 
 in the embitternuMit of party feelings. lUit from this jarring 
 of interests, I regretted to find that the same benevolent 
 nobleman who had done so much good in Xovia Scotia, by 
 whom contentment and jn'osperity were established and 
 ensured in that proviuct;, had been loss successful in Canada, 
 His enlightened views were frustrated and counteracted, and 
 measures which would have proved of incalculable advantage 
 to both parties were thwarted by their mutual petty jea- 
 lousies and unyielding dispositions. 
 
 The cold, after the winter is fairly set in, is most intense. 
 I have Ijoen out when the tem])erat\U'e was upwards of fifty 
 degrees under zero, but M'ithout experiencing any great 
 inconvenience, because tlie air was perfectly still ; but the 
 horses were conqdetely enveloped in a white frosted coating, 
 with long icicles dangling from tlu.'ir nostrils. The beauty 
 of the Canadian sky during this season has been often re- 
 
30(1 
 
 iiiiirkcd — a pure, cli'iu-, cloudless bjiu;, yet liii,i,'0(l with a 
 giddeii hue in the aftonioon ; its richnoss iui<l softness almost 
 rival tiie clianns and lustre of cxciuisite Italy. As usual, in 
 these clinuitcs, sled,L,dn{,f parties {'(instituted one of tli(! [(rineipal 
 iiniusements, and to hci^hlcn the enjoyment, dinners and 
 halls were eond)ined with the diversion, undi-r tin; patronai^o 
 of the heads of raniilies ; the married ladies havin;^' tin; 
 privilege — no doubt in imitation of the hidy patronesses at 
 Almack's — to admit the bachelors by vouchers ; all vying 
 with each other who should furnish the most savoury viands, 
 the choicest fruits, and the most eligible young men. These, 
 tiirmed country parties, were usually held at a hotel in some 
 of the villages within a few miles of the city ; so that we were 
 always certain of a good dinner, a merry dance, and a lair 
 companion in the cariole, during a chilly midnight drive home. 
 
 As spring advances, these assemblies are continued in the 
 shape of shad-tisliing parties. The proper time is indicated 
 by the appearance of myriads of large brown Hies which fill 
 the air ; but this plague is of short duration ; after a few days 
 they begin to die, and the streets are strewed with them. 
 Parties drive out to the branch of the Ottawa ; and there, 
 on the brink of a rapid, the ladies stand to behold the 
 gentlemen with bag-nets attached to a hook, having a long 
 jiole for a handle, scooping out at random one or two of these 
 delicate fishes at a time, each perhaps wi'ighing four or five 
 pounds. Dinner, and dancing in a mill, in some sequestered 
 grove in the forest, conclude the sports of the day. 
 
 The great dons of the place in those days were the 
 " Nor'-Westers," that is, gentlemen who had realised fortunes 
 in the fur trade, or North-West Company. To commemorate 
 the scenes of their youth, they had estaldished a society 
 denominated the " ] leaver Club," and, exclusive of all the 
 luxuries money could procure, they treated their friends to u 
 variety of sylvan dainties in the shape of beaver tails, beaver 
 hams, buffalo tongues, &.c. After dinner, iiulividuals dressed 
 as Indians enter, holding the calumet or pipe of peace, with 
 other symbols of friendship ; one addressed the company 
 
301 
 
 with ii 9|>('('(!li, or "talk," in the Indian livn<:,Mia,i,'e, while 
 another went rouml ])rosontinii[ the pipe to onch ,1,'uost, who 
 
 had to t;ik(^ a whill', to (Iciiiniist rali' hi-; 'uunl rrllowship. 
 Al'ter this, all the niciiihcrs st iiid m|i, in a low (»n cither side 
 of the tahle, each havinj,' ii canoe-pa Idle in his hand, and all 
 join in sin,L,dn'4 the lieanlil'id Canadian voyanenr hoat-sonj^s in 
 l*'i'cnch, keeping' time hy the motion of the paddle to the 
 varied strains of the tune, as the hardy ventnrons voyagers 
 are wont to do when descending;' a I'apid, sienunin^ a cnrrent, 
 or skimminL; the still hosom of a romantic lake. On one (tf 
 these occasions, when the (iovernor-( leiuMal, the l''arl of 
 DallHMisie, was dining at the Club, a member, representing 
 an Indian chief, after a conqiliiuiintary s[»eecli, threw down 
 at his loi'dslii])'s feet a rich full Indian costnme, saying, 
 "Father, take lliat". Thi'^ ma'jnilicent dress was made of 
 whole skins, e.\(|nisitely emhroideii d with stained porcnpini! 
 ([nills, and ornamented with the claws, tei'tli, and nails of the 
 rarest ami most feroeions animals, only found in tlie far 
 interior of tliis vast continent, while the head-dress was 
 composed of most beautiful feathei's, of l)irds 1 believe, still 
 unknown to us. The whole, including tlu; arms and weapons, 
 was valui'd at live hundred pounds ; and, what is more 
 renuxrkable, the tribe fi'<un whom it had been jjrocured were 
 so far ri'Uioved from the haunts of civilised uumi that they 
 had never seen a European, nor connnuiucated with one, 
 until a few adventurous traders had stumbled upon them in 
 exploiing those remote regions. 
 
 ^Vs nothing can demonstrate more clearly the general 
 feelings of a jieojih; than the internal state of society in a 
 country at large, it may be mentioned, to prove h(»w diametri- 
 cally op[)osed parties are to each other, that the French 
 Canadians eom]»laiu that they are kept in the background; 
 that all situations in every depaiiment are grasped at by the 
 British, to the incjudice of their rights and liberties; while 
 the British assert that the Canadians want to be independent, 
 and that they hold the IJiitish who conquered the country as 
 move intrud(>rs. Which party is right or wrong, it is difficult 
 
302 
 
 to rletormiiie ; but from all I have observod, then; is v(!ason to 
 believe that there are faults on both si(l(>s, like all other 
 domestic quarrels; and, it remedies are not aiiplied, the cou- 
 sequences uiay prove fatal to tlie prosperity of tlie country. 
 This, however, is certain. So exclusive was the best French 
 Ficnoh and socicty, aiul so sliy of associatiu'^' with the I-jii^lisli, 
 oiimiiiaiis. that we seldom met any 01 them at uiv. h(jus(.'s of 
 the Ih'itish residents — not even at the selfct ])arties of the 
 
 accomplished Mrs. !> , the lady of a gallant (leneral who 
 
 fell at the head of his lu'igade in the Peninsuhi, and the 
 
 daughter of the brave veteran Sir W J , so filmed in 
 
 all the wars in America, from (icneral Ih'adock's affair in 
 1757, down tu the last rupture with tlie I'^uited States, as a 
 leader having great influence over the Indian uations, of whom 
 he was superinteudent, and who consequently had done much 
 for Canada — with the exception of a limited number of in- 
 dividuals, including the l)eautiful IMadam P , and Judge 
 
 F , a lively chevalier of the old French school, who enter- 
 tained sumptuously persons of all parties. Many of the ladi(!S, 
 both English and French, are in this climate jiarticularly 
 handsome. The latter retain all their native vivacity of 
 manner peculiar to French women ; but they seldom study 
 the English language even as an elegant accomplishment, 
 much less do they ac([uire it as a necessary means of inter- 
 course. Hence all the beaux who speak French are preferred, 
 and become peculiar favourites; but intermarriages with JJritish 
 are almost unknown. The only instances of any note are the 
 liaroness of L'Isle, who married a Scotch gentleman, and the 
 
 charming young JMarquise de T , who gave her heart and 
 
 hand to Mr. B li , a person of great wealth, having a 
 
 large stake in the English funds, and princely possessions in 
 the United States, which perhaps occasioned an exception in 
 his favour. 
 
 The only point of resenddance in manners between the 
 two parties is adopted from tiie French. It is the custom 
 on New Year's Day for the gentlemen to visit all their 
 acquaintances, and the omission of this observance would be 
 
80:^ 
 
 considered a decided insult. The routine is as follows : — The 
 ladies of a family remain at home to receive visits ; the 
 genllemcu are actively en^^aged payini;' them, driving,' in 
 superb sleighs from house to house. Yuu eater, shake hands, 
 and aft(M' giving and receiving the usual felicitations of the 
 .season, talk for a minute or two, and then hurry off as fast as 
 you can. Wine and cake are on the table, and each guest is 
 invited to ])artake. The iniluence of this ceremony on the 
 social intercourse of families is very salutary. The first day 
 of the year is considered a day of kindnciss and reconciliation, 
 on which petty diflerences are forgotten, and trilling injuries 
 forgiven. 
 
 The Canadians were much captivated by a certain Scotch 
 chieftain, whose declining fortui;!' at home induced him to 
 endeavour to estalilish his aiieit ul name, family renown, and 
 clansmen in the new world. 'I'ii' y were impressed with a 
 degree of res})ect for the ancestry which he claimed. Tim 
 very buttons on his tartan jacket were, as he asserted, heir- 
 looms of some centuries old, descending from father to son. 
 The imposing pomposity of his manners, which, however 
 haughty to his inferiors, were to them all polite blandishment 
 and condescension, won them entirely, as the Ii'ish .say. The 
 Mac became a pet lion. It was amusing to observe their 
 eagerness in listening to his many extraordinary stoiies 
 detailed to them in his Scotticised French. One of his .st(jries 
 may be worth recording. 
 
 He hinted that he was employed by Lord (,'astlereagh in 
 some confidential transactions during the Congress at Ai.x-la- 
 Chapelle. Keturning one morning from walking, ab.sorbed in 
 thought, and ruminating on this important alfair, he, in 
 hastily turning the corner of a street, ran against a gentleman 
 with such force as to knock him down. To his horror and 
 dismay, he discovered that this was no less a personage than 
 the Czar of all the Itussias, the Emperor Nicholas himself, who 
 was in the act of recovering him.self, and was actually on his 
 knees, bareheaded, befon; him. Our great Mac, looking most 
 penitent for such an outiage against the sacred person of His 
 
304 
 
 Majesty, exclaiincd : "Jc vous (Icinniidc. iniilc jxirdons ! " 
 The Enipevnr asked: "Qui etos vous?" " ^Foi," r('])liod he, 
 "je su's cliel' de JNTdnta^uards sauvan'cs J*]c(^()ssiiis." ".Tele 
 crnis Lien," said tli(> Knijieror, at tlu! same time piekiui^' 
 up his hat from the iiiiid, " viaimciit bicu sauva'j,-e!" 
 
 ITovvever liospiLa])]t' sdcicl y in ('aiiada may l»e, and liow- 
 liushiifo. (ivei' ai^reealile the amusements, thei'e still lacks 
 niucli of that intellectual I'efinemenl to he found ])revailinff 
 in the enjoyments of lil'e i;i l'an'oi)e. Here, aiv no monunumts 
 of olden times; no remiuns of anti<[uity to he explored and 
 admired; no galleries of paintinns, oi' nuiseums of arts, 
 displaying and recording the genius of man, to lou.nge away 
 a morning in ; no ojiera to attract the lovers of music to be- 
 guiL an evening. Here the reflecting stranger can only 
 contemi)late the wonders of nature in magniliccnt waterfalls, 
 d.angerous and terrific ra])ids, and majestic scenery. Although 
 Canada cannot hoast of famed memorials of former ages to 
 attract the anti(piarian, there is much to interest the curious 
 traveller in the wildness of its scenery. To satisfy his taste, 
 however, in beholding this, or to aecpure a knowledge of the 
 country, he nnist: frequently retire IVom the haunts of nwu, 
 and forego the pleasures of society. He must in some 
 measure become for a time a recluse in the wilderness. This 
 is termed going into ilu; bush. Xay, so great are the attrac- 
 tive charms of this solitary existence to some persons, that 
 many have permanently remained there, and some are now to 
 be found cultivating their lots of ground, having al)andoned 
 gay life, rank and station, friends, country, and homo, to 
 gratify their propensity I'or the life of a settler in 
 the forest. Indeed, with numbers it becomes (piite a 
 passion, although to many, who are n(jt calculated to en- 
 counter diihcuUies, it may prove an infatuation. A sliort 
 excursion in thesi; localities soon proves, alas! that there are 
 contrasts in )'ural felicity. 
 
 The French seigneuries seldom extended to any distance 
 from the banks of the St. Lawrence, or other large rivers; 
 consequently, on the separation of the United States, a tract 
 
305 
 
 of forest wilderness intervened between the French locations 
 and the new frontier of America. In course of time this 
 began to be settled, and the inhabitants to increase. It like- 
 wise became a kind of neutral ground, the rendezvous of evil- 
 doers, smugglers, &c., from both sides of the frontier. Being 
 in the vicinity of the boundary-line, these characters could 
 easily evade the officers of justice. Th(i peaceable inhabitants 
 were much annoyed by these refugees, and the eastern town- 
 ships becoming of importance from the rapid improvements 
 in progress, the Governor-General determined to enforce the 
 laws. A commission, consisting of two judges from the 
 Supreme Court at Quebec, was deputed to hold courts of 
 justice, and in order to give due solemnity and protection to 
 their proceedings, a detachment of troops was ordered to 
 occupy the principal villages of the district. I having been 
 entrusted with the command in this duty, we proceeded by 
 steam down the St. Lawrence to Sorel, a neat small town, 
 where his Excellency the Earl and the Countess of Dalhousio 
 were residing at their charming summer retreat, on the 22nd 
 August, 1822. There having received final instructions from 
 his Lordship, we continued our route through a well cultivated 
 country to Yamaska. On enquiring for the captain of militia, 
 who likewise acted as Justice of Peace and billet-master, we 
 easily found his residence, which was denoted l)y a lofty flag- 
 staff, which likewise served the purpose of displaying his 
 loyalty by having the British ensign flying upon it on His 
 Majesty's birthday, and other jours dc fete. But this military 
 magistrate was absent, and there being no other public 
 authority to provide cpiartcrs, I had recourse to the cure, 
 requesting him to use his influence with some of his parisliio- 
 ners to accommodate the men. He kindly did so, and on my 
 thanking him for his courtesy, he said, " You have not dined ! 
 You must partake of my ik'IU inenr>(/e." The old housekeeper 
 looked aghast, either tliinking that the ])romised fare was 
 very indifferent, or that, if particularly dainty, it would prove 
 scanty for an additional guest. The curi^ good-humouredly 
 
 quieted her alarms, exclaiming that I was a soldier, and had 
 
 20 
 
306 
 
 been accustomed to short allowances, and perhaps worse than 
 he could give me. So down we sat. The first dish was a 
 basin of soup each, which certainly appeared little better than 
 thin barley water. As I vacantly stirred this liquid about, 
 doubtful whether I should venture to prove its quality, 
 I discovered two morsels of meat which kept chasing one 
 another about. Ere I had ventured to cast a glance at the 
 hospitable cure, he had stuffed his porringer with slices of 
 bread, so as to bring the contents to a proper consistency. 
 This was succeeded by a delicate fricassee, but whether of the 
 legs of chickens or of frogs I have not yet been able to 
 determine. It was, however, accompanied with excellent 
 bacon. Then followed apples stewed, and strewed with maple 
 sugar. The repast closed by the thrifty housekeeper produc- 
 ing a double portion of her "fromaxjc rafine," a favourite honne 
 houchc with the Canadians of all classes. This is neither 
 more nor less than a sort of cream cheese preserved until 
 almost putrid, so that the odour might be discerned across 
 the St. Lawrence. Only imagine what the effect must be on 
 the olfactory nerves when placed under your nose, and press- 
 ingly urged to devour it. This was too much. I pleaded 
 the necessity of attending to duty, and notwithstanding the 
 temptation of a cool bottle of claret, I left the curd to enjoy 
 the luxury of the cheese himself. These quiet country cures 
 are much respected by all ranks, and beloved by the hahitants. 
 They seem to follow the even tenor of their way, attending to 
 their duty without, as far as I could learn, mixing in political 
 strife. Indeed, the advantage of religious freedom is proved in 
 Canada. No religious discord envenoms tlie relations of life, 
 however much they may differ on other points. We next 
 day reached the river St. Francis, which we crossed in boats. 
 Here was a tolerably neat Indian village, which certainly did 
 credit to the superintendent in charge of it. 
 
 The following morning we moved up the banks of the 
 river. We began to leave cultivation behind us, and to dive 
 into the forest, through which a track had been cut. That is 
 to say, the trees had been felled about three feet from the 
 
307 
 
 ground. As the stumps remained, we had to wind our way 
 between them. In crossing a marshy valley, we passed ov^- 
 what they term a " corduroy " road, which is made with round 
 trees placed close together. Nothing can be imagined more 
 horrid than driving over such a substitute for a turnpike. 
 The noisy rolling and continued jolting is insufferable. The 
 good-humoured habitants sang and chatted to their small 
 horses to urge them on. It was really surprising how these 
 creatures dragged such loads over these bad roads ; but they 
 are invaluable animals, truly adapted to the particular 
 climate by nature, being a stout sort of punch or cob. How- 
 ever beautiful and sleek their skins are in summer, they 
 become like large bears in winter, getting on a shaggy, rough 
 coating to protect them against the rigour of the season. 
 They are strong, active, and extremely handy, capable of per- 
 forming with sleighs incredibly long joarneys. 
 
 The luibitants retain much politeness of manner when 
 addressing people. One fine morning I heard one of the 
 commonest-looking fellows ask his neighbour — a ditto of 
 himself : " Comment va votre sant(5 ! " to which the other 
 replied : " Superbe ! conmie le temps ". 
 
 The succeeding day brought us to a location which had 
 been settled under the patronage of a distinguished Kastem 
 general (after whom it was named), under the super- ^''''''s^'p^- 
 intendence of a gallant colonel, who had had an active share 
 in the last war with the United States, This gentleman, 
 when the toils of war were concluded, established himself at 
 once in the wilderness, carrying with him many of his old 
 comrades, officers and men. The colonel had a capital man- 
 sion, romantically situated on a lawn near a fine cascade on 
 the river. The embryo of a town had been formed, and 
 churches had been built. For some time matters went on in 
 a prosperous manner, but, unfortunately, the very means taken 
 to ensure the success of the enterprise proved the proximate 
 cause of its near ultimate ruin. Government had generously 
 allowed to the discharged warriors a certain proportion of 
 agricultural implements and rations for a year or two. Hence 
 
308 
 
 the men, not being entirely dependent on their own resources, 
 did not exert themselves in speedily getting their lots under 
 cultiv.ation ; consequently, when the rations were withdrawn, 
 they were unprepared to exist on their own resources. Many 
 of them abandoned the place. The colonel, however, and the 
 other officers persevered, and success had crowned their exer- 
 tions. All seemed highly pleased with their situation and 
 mode of life. After two more days fagging through the bush, 
 we reached our destination. We found a tolerable inn in a 
 tolerable village. The innkeeper (a captain of militia) messed 
 us for a mere trifle, including " sling," if we chose to drink it. 
 The judges were received with all due honour, and opened 
 the assizes in a half-finished church. It was, however, with 
 some difficulty that " respectables " enough could be found 
 to form a grand jury. Nay, so scarce were they that abso- 
 lutely one of the prisoners, who was out on bail, was included 
 in the number. 
 
 A fellow was tried for stealing a cow from Mr. T , 
 
 o 
 
 which he had killed and sold. The evidence was clear and 
 strongly against him. No doubt seemed to be entertained of 
 his being convicted, when, unexpectedly, in answer to a cross- 
 question, one of the last witnesses, a servant of the proprietor, 
 said the cow was one of the best cows " we " had. When 
 asked what he meant by the word " we," it came out that 
 instead of paying wages in money, in order to make servants 
 take more care of the stock, it is customary here to allow the 
 servants a certain share of the produce ; and the calf which 
 the cow was expected to produce was to have been the pro- 
 perty of the witness. This co-partnership proved fatal to the 
 indictment, and saved the culprit from an ignominous 
 end — as he would most certainly have been made an 
 example of, as a warning to the evil spirits infesting the 
 frontier. 
 
 I was waited upon by the Honourable Mr. F , who 
 
 politely invited me to pay him a visit at his domicile in the 
 
 woods. The learned and accomplished Judge B was 
 
 also of the party. It was with no small surprise that we 
 
309 
 
 beheld a charming villa in the Italian style, with saloons en 
 suite, adorned with many objects of vertii, furnished with 
 everything comfort could require or a refined taste could 
 imagine. The ladies were most accomplished, of elegant 
 manners, and finished musicians. All this was accounted 
 
 for. Mr. F had been employed in a public situation in 
 
 Italy, where he realised a certain independence ; but, having 
 a numerous family, he determined on retiring to the far 
 shores of America. Being a person of great taste and a 
 collector of antiquities, he had bought a large and splendid 
 collection of rare articles to decorate his mansion, such as 
 marble chimney-pieces, pillars, statues, vases, pictures, &c., 
 all which he had placed in a temporary wooden house until 
 the villa was prepared to receive them. Most unfortunately 
 the house was enveloped in flames, and the whole of the fine 
 marbles were reduced to lime powder. A few of the pictures 
 and small ornaments alone were saved. He had proceeded 
 in his improvements on a large scale and with great judgment. 
 On surveying the domain from a commanding height, it 
 appeared chequered with clumps of forest, like a chess-board. 
 This was owing, he informed us, to the crown and clergy 
 reserves, every seventh lot being retained for these purposes, 
 which proved detrimental to him as interrupting his system 
 of farming, and prevented liis having a compact property, 
 while these lots were at present worthless. Government, 
 however, expected they would become valuable, as the 
 settlers were obliged to improve and make roads round 
 them. The system seemed to be regarded as a great hard- 
 ship, and undoubtedly it tended to retard the rapid im- 
 provement of the country. 
 
 The assizes moved on to a small town on the frontier. 
 The judges, whom I accompanied, were escorted by a corps 
 of volunteer cavalry, who, although the fashion of their various 
 uniforms was more of the Marquess of Granby's time than 
 those of the present day, were well mounted on excellent 
 steeds, and everyone had a good broadsword in his hand. 
 We tried their horses' mettle by going at a dashing pace. 
 
310 
 
 On the termination of the assizes, we, judges and all, 
 made a trip across the line. In justice to the Americans, it 
 must he allowed that they are a most diligent and thriving 
 people. Immediately on crossing a brook it was observable. 
 Here the people are " at home " — not refugee emigrants 
 driven from their country to seek a chance asylum in a 
 distant land. They seemed as permanently settled and sur- 
 rounded with all the domestic conveniences and comforts of 
 life as in the most flourishing county in England ; indeed, in 
 a general sense, perhaps more so, as every individual seemed 
 to be in easy circumstances. They not being fettered with 
 the reserves above alluded to, the country had a tine open 
 appearance and the roads were capital. 
 
 The object of our expedition being accomplished, the 
 troops were ordered to be withdrawn. We consequently 
 retraced our steps to Montreal. One day during the march, 
 in passing a cottage in the forest, round which a partial 
 clearance had been made, a person, apparently not much 
 above thirty years of age, introduced himself to me, saying he 
 had been in the army ; but the miserable plight of his garb 
 would sorely have belied his assertion, had not his manners 
 and address bespoken the gentleman, and one who evidently 
 had seen better days. On entering the cottage, I was intro- 
 duced to a lady surrounded by a numerous progeny. They 
 informed me that he had been an ofhcer of Hussars. Indeed, 
 they both appeared to have moved in the gayest spheres of 
 life; but pecuniary circumstances, and a rising generation 
 rapidly increasing, had induced him to quit his profession 
 and to emigrate, entertaining the vain prospect of easily 
 finding a comfortable independence in the land of their 
 choice, without reflecting that to people in such circum- 
 stances nothing but prudence, exertion, and industry can 
 realise these blessings in any part of the world, much less in 
 a wilderness. Here they came as strangers, and remained 
 unknown ; by the world forgotten, without they themselves 
 being able to forget the world. Both were totally unsuited 
 for this mode of life, he having no experience or turn for 
 
311 
 
 agricultural pursuits, and she no knowledge of the manage- 
 ment of, or taste for, rural affairs. Tlioy were, to say the 
 truth, in a deplorable situation of misery. This case I 
 deemed infatuation. 
 
 In order to induce such of the scattered tribes of Indians 
 as might choose to locate themselves and reside in 
 domiciles, and to deter them from wandering about 
 or starving in their own now cultivated country, Government 
 had establislied villages for these people in various parts of 
 the colony. These Indian villages consist of neat wooden 
 houses, laid out in regular wide streets. Here the squaws 
 with the children always remain, while their barbarous hus- 
 bands, during the proper hunting season, roam the forests and 
 distant wilderness, returning from thence with their canoes 
 loaded with peltries, on the produce of which they exist 
 during the rigorous winter, loitering away their time in idle- 
 ness, or at times in fishing, wliich they accomplished by 
 making a hole in the ice, erecting a wigwam over it, and there, 
 sitting at their ease, catch fish at their leisure. This race of 
 beings are as lazy and indolent when their means permit 
 them to remain in repose, as they are active and enterprising 
 when necessity compels tliem to exertion, whether for sub- 
 sistence or in war. All these settlements are under the 
 direction and management of the General Superintendent, 
 and in each village there is a resident deputy to preserve 
 order and regularity in its affairs. It is also the custom of 
 the Government to give the Indians presents every year. 
 This is a grand affair, and a kind of holiday time with them. 
 They never fail to assemble at the appointed places of ren- 
 dezvous to receive the donations there distributed. These 
 generally consist of red and blue cloths, fowling-pieces, rifles, 
 blankets, &c., for the chiefs, black cloth and silver trinkets 
 for the ladies, and blankets, hatchets, &c., for the common 
 herd of wild ones. 
 
 In gratitude for favours of this kind, which had been be- 
 stowed a few days previously, a band of about fifty of these 
 warriors from the Indian village of Cocknawaga, situated on 
 
312 
 
 tlic, right bank of the St. Lawrence some miles above 
 IMontreal, cnmo to the latter place in order to do honour to 
 the Su])('rinL('ii(lcnt. They made their appearance in the city, 
 not decked in full costume for a ball, but absolutely in jmris 
 natuvcdihnx, as far as decency would permit. This afforded 
 us an opportunity of witnessing the extrjiordinary sight of 
 the savage exhibition of an Indian dance in the public streets. 
 These wild sons of the woods had striped to the buff. They 
 entered the city as devoid of covering as when they entered 
 the world, exce])t that each had a kind of scarf fastened about 
 his loins, so arranged as to seem like a pair of inexpressibles 
 reduced to the smallest dimensions, tucked short up. Their 
 faces and naked bodies were painted, or rather daubed in a 
 hideous manner. Some had spots, others stripes, generally of 
 black, red, or yellow, each according to his own taste or fancy, 
 agreeable to their wonted usage previous to preparing to 
 attack their enemies in battle. Their breasts were decorated 
 with larg(! trinkets, such as moon crescents, chains of silver, 
 or plated ornaments, and claws of ferocious animals. Many 
 had superb head-dresses of rare and various coloured feathers, 
 while others had their long, shaggy, black hair hanging dis- 
 hevelled about their shoulders in all their native savage wild- 
 ness. All were armed with sabres, tomahawks, or other im- 
 plements of war. And finely formed men they were as ever 
 stepped, displaying great nniscular power, seeming to com- 
 bine great agility with strength. They hurried along at a 
 quick pace, capering and leaping at times, uttering, occasion- 
 ally, wild hurras and shrieks, mingled with the monotonous 
 sound of a dull sort of drum. In this manner they proceeded 
 to the house of the General Superintendent, in front of which 
 they commenced their fantastic exhibition, by dancing and 
 capering through fanciful evolutions in an odd style. Their 
 principal movement consisted of a kind of measured stamping 
 with both feet, and at the same time turning their bodies to 
 and fro, to right and left, and all brandishing their weapons, 
 and flourishing their sabres in the air, accompanied with a 
 grunting guttural, " Heu uch, lieu uch,*' with bursts of shrill 
 
313 
 
 yells. They afterwards adjourned to the residence of the 
 Commandant at Govennnont House, and to those of the 
 other heads of departments, whom they honoured with a 
 repetition of the same compliments. Yet, notwithsliuiding 
 this ferocious display, the Indians have now become a luuin- 
 less set, only noxious to themselves, many of them boinj; 
 addicted to intemperance, an evil which their French Catholic 
 curds, with all their zeal and influence over them, have not 
 been able entirely to repress. 
 
 1 once met a most respectable -looking chief, of a portly 
 figure, near the Falls of Niagara, who was particularly well- 
 dressed — that is to say, liis habiliments were clean and neat. 
 He sported a kind of blue frock-coat, having the seams and 
 edges inlaid with red or white cloth ; a leather belt round the 
 body, superbly worked over in curious devices of various 
 coloured porcupine quills, to which was attached a small 
 pouch adorned in the same manner ; with scarlet pantaloons. 
 He was accompanied by a handsome squaw, whose face, 
 although dark, still displayed sufficient tints of the rose and 
 lily, while her dark brown eyes gave her general appear- 
 ance a soft and dignified effect. She was smartly dressed in 
 richly-worked moggans, black stockings, blue under garments, 
 which did not reach lower than mid-leg, with a gown of the 
 same stuff and colour, the train of which was turned over her 
 head so as to form a mantle, which was fastened in front by a 
 variety of silver brooches, large-headed pins, &c. Her fingers 
 were adorned with rings. They had in their train some 
 Indians, whose clothing was of the same make and form as 
 their chiefs, except tliat the stuff was made up of blankets. 
 On showing some surprise when I observed that the rims of 
 the ears of these grim warriors were cut, aud left lianging pen- 
 dent at the lower point like a ring, and silver ornaments attached 
 to them, the chief stopped and addressed us. " Yes, gentlemen," 
 said he, in French, at the same time pointing to his ears, " you 
 have your fashion ; this is ours. I trust you admire it." He 
 informed us that he had had a command as a leading chief 
 amon^^st his wild brethren during the last war with the 
 
314 
 
 United Stutes, and ho })roduced covtificatcs from several 
 generals of his faithful and gallant conduct. He added that 
 h(3 now had settled on his allotment of land, which he was 
 cultivating, and that his people also were raising good crops 
 of Indian corn, with fruitB and vegetables of all kinds. 
 
 On the 21st July I sailed from Quebec, and reached Eng- 
 Koturnto laud on the 15th August. In 182G I commanded 
 Kngumd. ^Quif, troops during the riots at Manchester ; and 
 from March, 1828, to December, 1832, I served in Ireland j 
 after which I retired from the army. 
 
 There seems no bounds to British enterprise. The globe 
 itself appears almost too limited a sphere of action to display 
 the courage of Englishmen. Not content with the deeds of 
 valour performed in the Peninsula, many ofUcers who had 
 distinguished themselves on various occasions by gallant 
 conduct in the field during that arduous struggle, disregard- 
 ing the ease and indolence of retired life, availed themselves 
 of the advantages held out in the New World by the South 
 American States, then in arms to assert their rights and free 
 themselves from the oppressions and exactions to which they 
 had so long been subjected while under the dominion of 
 Spain. 
 
 Amongst the many who volunteered their services 
 Tbofiitoof to aid these oppressed people in the recovery 
 liberators. ^^ j.|jy-j, fi-ge^Qm y^^^Q three who had served 
 
 in the corps to which I belonged : Captain Eafler, Lieu- 
 tenant Acton, and Lieutenant Koss of the 60th Rifles. 
 The latter, who possessed a very determined courage, 
 with cool judgment, had, by his bravery, particularly distin- 
 guished himself at the sieges of Ciudad Rodrigo and Badajos ; 
 and it was principally owing to his talents on the occasion 
 I am now alluding to that the expedition to which these 
 three officers were attached succeeded in the capture (after- 
 wards reversed) of Porto Bello in the States of Columbia, on 
 the Isthmus of Panama, although this operation was carried 
 
315 
 
 on under the nominal command of Sir Oregor M'Gre^'or, 
 under the high-sound in^,' title of Cacique of Toyais. The 
 said Cacique, deeming this a place of some security, esta- 
 blished here his headquarters, dubbed himself Governor, and 
 in that capacity took possession of an excellent house, lived 
 in luxurious indolence, and had a sloop of war in the otfing 
 at his command. His force, although principally consisting 
 of British, being all new levies, required much drilling and 
 exercise to make them effective, their numbers not being 
 sufficient to admit of a proper distribution for defence and 
 instruction separately. The advanced piquets were posted 
 every night in the principal roads, at some little distance 
 from the town ; and as no movement of the enemy to attack 
 the place was apprehended, they were withdrawn every 
 morning after sunrise for the purpose of being drilled. Tlmy 
 went quietly on in this manner until lulled into a fatal 
 security. 
 
 One beautiful, balmy spring morning the luxurious shrubs 
 ornamenting the neighbouring heights were yielding their 
 fragrance to the gentle breeze, which playfully waved their 
 tops to and fro, while the clear waters of the adjacent river, 
 shaded by the verdant foliage of the acacia and the weeping 
 willow, seemed by their delightful coolness to invito those 
 who had been on the midnight watch to refresh their wearied 
 limbs. The piquets had been withdrawn as usual ; the men 
 had piled arms, and, along with those off duty, were at drill 
 in squads in front of the Government House in the Grand 
 Plaqa, when, before a sound was heard or any alarm given, 
 many of the best and bravest were by a murderous volley 
 laid low. This most unexpected vicissitude staggered the 
 whole for a moment, but they soon recovered themselves; 
 the former piquet seized their arms, and, being joined by the 
 Governor's guard, a stand was made to enable the others to 
 retreat to a fort at no great distance. This was effected after 
 considerable loss. During this disastrous attack the vain- 
 glorious Cacique of Poyais, instead of gallantly heading his 
 troops and sharing their fortunes, on the first alarm jumped 
 
316 
 
 out of bed, leaped out of a back window, plunged into the sea, 
 swam on board his ship of war, got under weigh, and thus 
 saved himself by an ignominious flight, to the horror and 
 mortification of his brave people in the fort, who beheld him 
 making his escape to sea in a vessel which was their only- 
 effectual means of defence. They were thus abandoned to 
 the mercy of a relendess enemy ; whereas, if he had brought 
 the broadside of the ship to bear on the town, so as to give a 
 cross-fire to that of the fort, the enemy would probably have 
 been driven out again without much difficulty. 
 
 The fort, which liad been constructed more to protect the 
 harbour and lower part of the town than to form any defence 
 against an attack from the interior of the country, was sur- 
 rounded by some houses, which the Spanish army got posses- 
 sion of, and picked the men off who were working the guns. 
 Eoss cleverly got some guns turned round and dislodged 
 them. But the place not having been provisioned, any 
 further defence was only maintained with a view of getting 
 terms. They, therefore, offered to capitulate, on being pro- 
 vided with shipping to quit the country and return to Eng- 
 land. The Spaniards readily acceded to the proposition, and 
 further promised to treat them with respect, but the 
 instant the men laid down their arms, upon marching out 
 of the fort, they wei'e surrounded by an armed force, the 
 officers separated from the men, and all divided into small 
 parties, and marched in different directions far up the country. 
 
 The officers were treated in the most degrading manner, 
 being obliged to perform menial offices, and literally to 
 become hewers of wood and carriers of water. Under a 
 pretence that it had been discovered that they were forming 
 a plan to make their escape, their legs were put into stocks 
 every night, so that they could get but little rest after their 
 daily labours. Eoss complained of this to the Spanish com- 
 mander, stating that such usage was ungenerous after the 
 service he had performed for them in Spain. But all the 
 redress he got was a grin, with the repetition of " tan peor," 
 " so much the worse," to every particular action he mentioned. 
 
317 
 
 It was thus implied that if he had fought for the king of 
 Spain then, he had no business to fight against him 
 now. 
 
 One morning, before they were relieved from the stocks, 
 a corporal and a file of men marched up and began loading 
 their firelocks in front of the ofl&cers. On being asked what 
 they meant by tliis, they pointed to Captain Eafler, and said 
 to him, " We are going to shoot you ! " He earnestly insisted 
 that there must be some mistake. They replied that there 
 was no mistake, adding that he was the person who was 
 plotting to escape, and that, in order to frighten the others, 
 he must be made an example of. They accordingly released 
 him, and made him proceed in front of them to some short 
 distance, when they del'berately fired and shot him dead ! 
 
 The fate of poor Acton was particularly melancholy, and 
 so, in its proportion, was that of his favourite poodle dog, 
 Leo. This fine animal had been for years his most attached 
 and faithful companion. Leo had been sheared and trimmed 
 up into the shape and appearance of a most ferocious lion ; 
 but this was only in outward resemblance, for Leo had a 
 kind and playful spirit. He possessed wonderful instinct 
 and sagacity, and performed many amusing pranks and tricks, 
 such as fetching anything from his 'master's room which he 
 desired him to bring. His forte, however, was in aquatic 
 displays, particularly in diving or leaping overboard, and 
 then scrambling up again by a rope thrown over the side. 
 And Leo was the constant attendant on his master on all 
 occasions of bathing. Acton had been an out-picket on the 
 night preceding the surprise, and, on returning, had remained 
 to bathe. While enjoying this luxury after the fatigue of 
 the night, being helpless and defenceless, the enemy came 
 rapidly on — escape was impossible — and these cruel agents 
 of oppression bayoneted him in cold blood. His faithful Leo 
 made a vigorous attack on the barbarous miscreants, and 
 likewise fell covered with wounds, in the vain endeavour to 
 defend his master. 
 
 The successful surprise of this place by the Spaniards was 
 
318 
 
 owing to information of the manner in which the liberating 
 forces carried on the duty, given by spies and those within 
 the town friendly to the old regime. The Spaniards had with 
 the utmost secrecy moved a large force on the fortress, and 
 had concealed them behind the heights, covered with brush- 
 wood, as above described ; and it is supposed that on a signal 
 from some traitor to his country within, and at the fitting 
 moment, they dashed on and obtained their success. 
 
 Lieutenant Ross continued for fifteen months under the 
 control of his hard taskmasters ; when, reduced by ill-health 
 and despair, he was fortunately relieved in exchange for 
 some Spanish officers, on whom retaliation was about to be 
 made. 
 
NOTES FOK SPAIN. 
 
 C11ARLE8 IV. succeeded his father, and joined the European 
 confederacy against the French Revolution, but his efforts 
 were unsuccessful. The army of the Eepublic passed the 
 Pyrenees, defeated the Spanish army, took St. Sebastian, and occupied 
 Biscay and Navarre. Charles sued for peace, and by the 
 Treaty of Basle in July, 1795, he regained the lost provinces 
 on giving up to France the Spanish portion of St. Domingo. He 
 neglected, however, to maintain his army on a proper footing, to 
 repair and strengthen his fortresses, and to improve the military re- 
 sources of the country ; whilst from the weakness of his position 
 he was soon afterwards compelled by France to engage with her in 
 the war against England, in which he lost Minorca and Trinidad ; 
 Spanish trade was destroyed, and great part of her fleet taken. 
 
 Napoleon, on seizing the Throne in France, imposed upon Spain 
 by appearance of friendship, in which he was supported by an 
 unworthy minion, Don Manuel Godoy, then minister and arbiter of 
 the destinies of Spain. This fellow, raised from the rank of a Guard du 
 Corps in 1788, at the instigation of the Queen, whose favourite he 
 was, to the highest posts in the State, acquired an unbounded influence 
 over the imbecile Charles. He was invested with the Golden Fleece, 
 made Principe de Paz in 1795, after the Treaty of Basle, and the weak 
 King gave him his niece, the Princess Maria Theresa de Bourbon, in 
 marriage. Under Godoy the honour and interests of Spain were 
 swamped, the court became degraded and dissolute. In 
 1802 Godoy became Generalissimo by sea and land, and in 
 1807 High Admiral of Spain and the Indies. 
 
 The war with France seemed to have paralysed Spain — her spirit 
 seemed subdued ; and although she took no decidedly active part in 
 the war which commenced between England and France 
 
 1803 
 
 in 1803, after the Peace of Amiens, she only acquired per- 
 mission to remain neutral by paying large subsidies to Napoleon. 
 The British Government, aware that she had thus broken her neu- 
 trality, and that the Spanish Government only waited the arrival of 
 a large amount of treasure from South America to declare war, Mr. 
 
320 
 
 Pitt decided on intercepting these vessels, and accordingly a squadron 
 under Sir Graham Moore went to Cape St. Marys, 4th Octo- 
 ber, 1 804. Spain immediately declared war openly against 
 England, and Nelson at Trafalgar, October, 1805, defeated 
 the Spaniards. 
 
 The Spanish nobility were indignant at Godoy's elevation and 
 jealous of his power. Ferdinand, the heir to the Throne, beheld this 
 scene with tarror and disgust, and a large party was formed under 
 him in opposition to the favourite. Godoy, dreading the hostility of 
 such a strong party and the indignation of an injured people, saw 
 the necessity of endeavouring to adopt some measures in accord with 
 the general feeling of the country. Finding Napoleon deeply 
 engaged in German wars, he entered into some negotiations with the 
 Russian and Portuguese ambassadors at Madrid, that in concert with 
 England a plan should be formed to attack France ; but before 
 matters were arranged in any favourable state, he most perniciously 
 issued a manifesto calling the country to arms. 
 
 Napoleon suppressed his resentment until he had completed his 
 triumphs in the north of Germany by the Treaty of Tilsit, 
 August, 1807. He now determined to persevere in 
 ambitious projects, and to wreak his vengeance on the Spaniards by 
 the subjugation of the Peninsula. He had contingents of her best 
 troops out of the country ; 16,000, under the Marquis of Eomaua, 
 were left in the north of Germany, and he assembled a large army at 
 Bayonne. Under fallacious pretexts he induced Charles to become 
 a party to the Treaty of Fontainebleau, by which the partition of 
 Portugal was agreed on, for which purpose a French army should 
 enter Spain and proceed, in combination with certain portions of the 
 Spanish army, to Portugal. 
 
 In August, 1807, the first part of the drama commenced by the 
 French and Spanish ambassadors at Lisbon demanding that Portugal 
 should close her ports against England, and all English ships and 
 property confiscated ; threatening on refusal that a declaration of 
 war would take place. 
 
 After some ineffectual remonstrance, the Prince Regent of 
 Portugal, overawed by threats and the seizure of Portuguese vessels 
 in the ports of France, was at last obliged to acquiesce. The property 
 of English subjects was seized, and a proclamation issued prohibiting 
 all commerce whatever between the countries ; but these unjust sacri- 
 fices, extorted from the Prince Regent, did not retard the execution of 
 Napoleon's projects against Portugal. Under the pretence of emanci- 
 pating her from the yoke of England, a French army under Marshal 
 Junot, who had formerly been ambassador at Lisbon, crossed the Pyre- 
 nees early in November, and advanced by Salamanca towards Portugal. 
 
:-V2i 
 
 The British Govorniuont saw that Portugal had been coerced to 
 take proceedings against her, but intimated that any further act of 
 aggression would bo considorcd a declaration of war. A squadron 
 under Sir Sidney Smith was sent to cruise off the Tagus, and another 
 proclamation appearing ordering the confiscation of English property, 
 Lord Strangford quitted Lisbon and retired on board the adiuiral's 
 ship, Lisbon being declanid under blockade. 
 
 On 17th November Junot issued a proclamation at Alcatitara, 
 stating that his only object in entering Portugal was to emancipate 
 the Goverment from the yoke of England, and called upon the people 
 to receive the invader as friends. 
 
 On the 19th November the French army and Spaniards crossed 
 the frontier and marched on Lisbon by Castello Branco. On the 23rd 
 their advanced guard reached Abrantes. This rapid advance took the 
 Eegent by surprise. Deceived by the hope that hostilities might be 
 avoided by comijliance with Napoleon's wishes, all defensive precau- 
 tions had been neglected, and it was only when the French were but 
 four days' march from Lisbon that the Rogont became aware of the 
 danger. He at length yielded to the counsel of Lord Strangford, 
 and determined to quit the kingdom for Brazil ; and having nominated 
 a Council of Regency, of which the Marquis of Abrantes was named 
 Presidentjhe embarked with all the Royal Family on 24th November, 1 807- 
 
 The French entered Lisbon without opposition. The suddenness 
 of events by which the independence of the country had been sacri- 
 ficed seemed to have cast a stupor on the nation. Had tlie smallest 
 energy on the part of the Government been exerted to resist the 
 enemy and organise the people to oppose the invader, they might 
 have been effectively resisted Avith undoubted success, because from 
 the haste Junot was in to accomplish Napoleon's intentions, and to 
 seize upon his prey, his army was pushed on by forced marches. The 
 season was particularly inclement, and the roads almost impassable. 
 No magazines fur supply had been formed. These circumstances 
 introduced disorder into their ranks. The men quitted their corps in 
 search of food and plunder. The number uf stragglers and sick or 
 weakly men left along the line of march was immense. Every regi- 
 ment was more or less disorganised, so that had any military force 
 opposed their passage in the difficult parts of the cuuntry, or had even 
 the peasantry attacked them in such places, they must have been cut 
 up in detail. 
 
 When they arrived at Punhete, situated on a point of laijd at the 
 junction of the Zezaro and the Tagus, both rivers were so swollen, 
 and not sufficient boats, the Frqucli were detained two days cooped 
 up in this corner, where they might have been attacked and compelled 
 to surrender without any difficulty. They arrived at Lisbon in de- 
 
 ' 21 
 
'A 9 9 
 
 tached parties, in wretched condition, emaciated and in rags, many 
 X80T— without shoes, and most of the officers without a change 
 
 Ueccrabor. ^f Jinon. 
 
 Jimot affected to conciliate the inhabitants by professions of 
 friendly intentions, iuid the usual system of government was con- 
 tinued ; but when ho had reorganised his army and secured the 
 princii)iil fortresses, ho tlirow off" the mask, and, in accordance with 
 Napoleon's desire, publicly announced that the house of Braganza 
 had ceased to reign ; that the Regent by leaving the country had 
 forfeited all right to the allegiance of the nation. He assumed the 
 chief authority, goveruing in the name of Napoleon, and exacted 
 enormous contributions. 
 
 Although the French had partisans amongst the nobility, such as 
 the Marquis d'Alorua and otliers, still the mass of the people were 
 fidl of noble sj)irit, and f(^lt indignant at the degradation of their 
 country, and the oppression endured from a foreign invader. Junot, 
 in order to render inelTectual all opposition, marched off the flower 
 of the Portuguese army to Fiance, consisting of 10,000 men, under 
 the Marquess d'Alorna. All the officers who went voluntarily were 
 promised a step of promotion ; but many of them, and the greater 
 part of the men, contrived to escape during the march, and returned 
 homo. Many nobility wore, under various pretext?, sent on niissions 
 
 to France ; amongst others the Marquis de Mon , who was 
 
 much regretted by his countrymen. A depiitation, consisting of the 
 Bishop of Coimbra, the Marquis d'Abrana, Don Nuno Caetano de 
 Melle, &c., was sent to congratulate the Emperor, These, 
 under his influence, addressed a letter in April, 1808, to their 
 countrymen, puffing oft" the Emperor's generous policy towards Portu- 
 gal, and urging submission to their great deliverer. 
 
 But the people were not to bo deceived by such false advice from 
 treacherous friends. Tlie exorbitant contributions atid exactions of 
 horses, waggons, &c., levied with great severity ; the extensive confis- 
 cation of property and goods of all descriptions, under pretence that 
 they were of English manufacture ; the churches pillaged of the 
 sacred vessels ; the palaces of the nobility plundered ; the violence 
 and robberies committed by the soldiery on the poor peasants, too 
 clearly proved they were under the iron sway of a foreign despot. 
 Smothered feelings of indignation and revenge reigned in every breast 
 against foreign intruders who had insulted their religion, and carried 
 rapine and oppression into every home. 
 
 Intelligence of the niassiicre at ^ladrid, and the general insurrec- 
 tion in Simin against their conunon foe, soon reached Lisbon. Junot, 
 in vain endeavoured to deceive the people by publishing false 
 accounts of a contrary nature. 
 
On tho 6th June, 1808, General B , coniiuiuuling the corps 
 
 at Oporto, having received directions from the Junta of Gallicia to 
 
 return to Spain, arrested tho French General .and his staff, 
 
 and immediately marched off for Spain, currying them prisoners along 
 with him ! On this news reaching Junot he immediately adopted 
 measures to secure the whole of the Spanisli division then at Lisbon 
 under General CarifFa, and took the stronfj measures to overawe 
 the people. All persons were ordered to giv. their arms, and every 
 householder was declared responsible for all pi tsons in the family. 
 
 On the 18th of June the fenst of Corpus Christi was celebrated 
 with the usual magnificence. The procession was most niuuorously 
 attended by all ranks. Several French generals and a strong body of 
 French troops were also there, for the purpose of imposing on the 
 people. Scarcely had the solemn procession begun to move, when in 
 a moment the crowd became agitated. Cries of " The English arc 
 landed!" i-esounded in all directions. Many in the confusion, not 
 knowing whence the commotion originated, were seized with terror, 
 and apprehended that a massacre was going to occur. Lamentations 
 were heard on every side, ^.nd they overthrew one another in their 
 endeavours to escape. General disorder prevailed, and tho groiuid 
 remained strewed with wax tapers. The French soldiers remained 
 firm. Their ofHcers formed the men, who were leaving the streets, 
 into close order, ready to act as required. Junot, seeing the necessity 
 for the procession going on, in order to show his determination to 
 preserve order, assured the principal clergy and nobles that he would 
 offer every protection. All was again arranged and carried through 
 without disturbance. We were told this was a trick of some people to 
 annoy the French. 
 
 Although matters were thus lulled for the time at Lisbon, not so 
 at Oporto, for on the very same day the flame of patriotism burst 
 forth. The people, encouraged by the appearance of an English ship 
 of war in the offing, rose and declared against the French authority. 
 The governor, Don Luiz de Olivera, who attempted to repress their 
 proceedings, was seized and committed to prison. The arsenal was 
 broken open, and the people helped themselves. Tho bishop ajjproved 
 of the movement, and a Junta was appointed, of which he was Presi- 
 dent, for provisional government. The rising in the Algarves took 
 place about the same time, whilst it spread from Oporto in all direc- 
 tions — from Braga in the north to Coimbra, I,erida, &c., in tho south. 
 The Junta acted with great vigour. Military leaders of good position 
 were appointed, the disembodied military organised in regiments, and 
 artillery trains equipped. 
 
 Viscount B was sent ambassador to England, and com- 
 munication opened with tho Juntas in Spain. 
 
324 
 
 Partial encounters took place in various places between the patriots 
 and detacbecl portions of the enemy, so that the French lost all 
 possession of the country, except the actual military positions they 
 held. 
 
 Junot, on learning the outbreak at Oiiorto, adopted the most 
 severe measures to prevent such occurring at Lisbon, and, to intimi- 
 date the people, fulminated the most cruel decrees, threatening to 
 destroy the towns and villages with fire and sword. 
 
 By the Treaty of Fontainebleau Portugal was to be divided. 
 Entre Minho ct Douro was to be given to the King of Etruria, whoso 
 Italian possessions were ceded to Franco. The Alentejo and Algarve 
 to be erected into a principality for Godoy. That the other provinces 
 should be disposed of as might be agreed upon afterwards. That a 
 French army should be hurried immediately to Portugal, that 
 a corps of 12,000 iSpaniards should tsdce possession of Entre Minho et 
 Douro and the city of Oporto, and that a large French army of re- 
 serve should be assembled at Bayonne. 
 
 Ferdinand, indignant at the favour Godoy enjoyed with his father 
 and mother, came to an open quarrel with his father, and, having 
 joined the paity opposed to that minister, measures were begun for 
 his overthrow. 
 
 In October, 1807, Ferdinand wrote a secret letter to Napoleon, 
 soliciting to be united to one of his family, and begging that he 
 would interfere to remedy the disorders of Godoy's government. 
 Godoy, having found this out, had Ferdinand arrested at the 
 Escurial, on the 28th October, and accused of high treason in 
 having formed a conspiracy to dethrone the King, his father. The 
 people showed demonstrations of favour to Ferdinand and of hatred 
 to Godoy, who got alarmed, and effected a reconciliation between 
 father and son. Charles wrote to Napoleon expressing surprise that 
 the Emperor had not consulted him about the marriage of his son with 
 one of his family, to which lie received no answer. Godoy afterwards 
 prevailed upon the imbecile King to write another letter to the Empe- 
 ror, soliciting that his son Ferdinand might have the honour of form- 
 ing an alliance M'ith a member of his imperial family. He, however, 
 got no rei^ly for some time ; at length the Emperor wrote from Italy 
 denying that he had ever received any proposal from Ferdinand, and 
 that the first intelligence he had of it was from the King's own letter, 
 but expressed his approbation of the proposed arrangement. 
 
 No sooner had the French army destined to attack Portugal in 
 November, under Junot, passed the frontiers of Spain than 24,000 
 men of the army of reserve, under Dupont, were speedily pushed after 
 them, and directed its march to Valladolid in December, thus com- 
 manding both roads either to Madrid or Lisbon. A third army of 
 
325 
 
 nearly 20,000 men, under Marshal Morney, crossed the Bedassoa, 9th 
 January, and took possession of Biscay and Navarre, whilst 
 another army was collected to invade Cataloniuin the east em 
 side of Spain. Junot attempted to justify his pouring such largo 
 forces into Spain on the plea of rescuing Portugal ; but the forces 
 assembled on the north-east frontier offered no such excuse, and 
 evidently showed hostile intentions ; still no measures were taken 
 to prevent the entrance of such invaders. 
 
 In March an army of 80,000 under Murat entered Spain and 
 occupied Vittoria, ready to advance on Madrid, while the fortresses 
 of St. Sebastian, Panipeluna, Terzieras, and Barcelona fell into the 
 hands of these dreadful friends by fraud or treachery. 
 
 In the meanwhile Napoleon kept fluttering Charles, express- 
 ing his anxious wish for the completion of a family alliance, and 
 stated his intention to visit Madrid to settle by personal arrangement 
 all points of difference. He however evaded the promised visit, but 
 sent proposals that he would give the sovereignity of Portugal, which 
 he claimed, to Spain, and get in exchange Galicia, Biscay, and Navarre, 
 and participate in the trade of her colonics, and that the succession to 
 the Spanish throne should be finally settled. Godoy became sensible 
 by these transactions that his hopes of the principality in Portugal, 
 promised him by the Treaty of Fontaineblcau, were at an end, that all 
 his plans of acquiring wealth and honour were thwarted ; and he 
 became anxious to escape from impending dangers. He proposed to 
 Charles to remove his seat of government to his South American 
 states. Charles, despairing of settling the affairs of Spain with 
 Napoleon, agreed to this arrangement, and secret preparations wei'O 
 made for the departure of the court ; but the jilan being denounced, 
 the people made violent demonstrations of discontent. Ferdinand 
 also declared his objection to the project, as he considered that 
 Napoleon would favour his views. 
 
 On the 17th March the populace at Arunjuez, finding that there 
 were preparations for the departure of the lioyal Family, rose, shouting, 
 ^^ Death to Godoy!'" attacked and destroyed bis house. The troops 
 not only refused to fire on the people, but resisted with them. The 
 same scenes were enacted next day at Madrid. The palace there was 
 destroyed. Godoy made his escape, and on the 19th March was found 
 concealed at Ocuna, when he would have fallen a victim to popular 
 fury, if Ferdinand had not interfered and saved his life. Tranquillity 
 was only restored by a proclamation from the King announcing the 
 departure of Godoy. 
 
 On the 20th March, Charles IV., by a public decree, abdicated in 
 favour of Ferdinand, as he said, by a spontaneous act of his free-will, 
 because from infirmities he found the burden of government too much 
 
320 
 
 for hiui. The joy of tho nation was unbouiidccl. Ferdinand was in 
 hif^h favour. Thi' iu>oplo looked to liiai for delivernnco from all their 
 oppressions. lie published an ordcsr for tho confiscation of Godoy's 
 property, and deprived him of his honours, and filled up all public 
 situations with his own adherents. Ferdinand then despatched a 
 letter to Napoleon announcing his accession to the Throne, with 
 assurances that the recent changes should not aft'ect the relations with 
 France. 
 
 Murat, who was already marching on Madiid when these events 
 occurred, continued his advance, and, entering the capital on 23rd 
 March, took military possession of the city. 
 
 Ferdinand entered next day, but the French ambassador and 
 Murat excused themselves from acknowledging him until they 
 had the Emperor's decision. Charles had likewise written to Napoleon 
 aunouncing his abdication, solicited protection, and hoped, that the 
 alliance between tho countries would continue. 
 
 Napoleon availed himself of these counuunications from both 
 father and son, as giving him a right to interfere in the affairs of 
 Spain. His ministers and generals assumed and exercised the direc- 
 tion of all public afl'airs. The command of the capital was seized 
 upon by the intruder, cannon placed in the most favourable positions 
 for commanding the palace and other public places, so as to overawe 
 the people, and no effort was made by Ferdinand to counteract their 
 encroachments or to resent them. 
 
 Napoleon came in March to Bayonne, so as to be at hand to carry 
 out his project of dethroning the reigning family. He was led to 
 this no doubt by finding that Ferdinand, though weak and destitute 
 of abilities, still possessed the affections of the Spanish people, and 
 that he raised tho nation against his father successfully. He 
 gave Charles to imderstand that he considered his abdication had 
 been forced ujjon him, that he would therefore support his cause, and 
 arranged that the place of exile for the dcthroiaed King should be 
 Badajos. Pleased with this, Charles sent a letter to Napoleon through 
 Murat declaring that his abdication was compulsory, and that herelied 
 on the Empei-or to be re-established. These transactions were kept 
 secret from Ferdinand. 
 
 A report was spread that the Emperor intended coming to 
 Madrid, and it was hinted to Ferdinand that if he would advance to 
 meet the Emperor, it would be considered a mark of respect. 
 In tho meantime fciavary arrived with a message from Napoleon 
 assuring him that if his sentiments towards France were similar to 
 those of his father, the Emperor would look over the proceedings of 
 his acquiring the Throne, and would acknowledge him as King of 
 Spain. He likewise informed him that the Emperor had entered 
 
327 
 
 Spain on 2n(l April on liis way to Madrid, and that it would bo taken 
 as a compliniont if he would go as far as Burgos to meet him. Fer- 
 dinand thorel'ore sot out on lOtli April, and was porsuadod to go as 
 far as Vittorin, a jonrnoy of ovor 200 miles, and on arriving tlioro 
 foujid iifi^ (III- Kiiipirii); hut ;i letter from liini in which hf ilid not 
 ticknoninhji: him as King ; hintod his sur{)ri,se at the manner in which 
 ho had iittaiucd the Throne ; debited that tho prosecution of Godoy 
 should cease, as any investigation might cast doubts on Ferdinand's 
 own legitimacy ; and waiTicd him against popular comuiotiona. 
 
 Ferdinand wo\ild fain have returned to Maiiiid ; but dreading to 
 offend Napoleon, and urged by Savary, who assured him that on his 
 arrival at Bayonne he would bo fully ackuowlcdgod as King of Spain, 
 bo continued his journey. 
 
 On 2()th April Ferdinand arrived at Bayonne. Napoleon received 
 him with the greatest respect, invited him to dinner, and treated him 
 as a royal personage ; but, on reluming to his residence, Savary in- 
 formed him of tho Emperor's dc-cision to expel the Bourbons, and 
 urged him to sign an abdication. This base proposal Ferdinand furi- 
 ously refused, and expressed a wish to return to Spain. The only 
 reply he got was that his guards were douhled. 
 
 In the meantime Murat assumed the chief authority at Madrid, 
 Ho denuinded the release of Godoy, and stated that Charles IV. alono 
 would be recognised by Napoleon as King of Spain. The Council of 
 Government, induced by their fears, readily complied : Godoy was 
 sent off under escort to Bayonne, and Charles with his unworthy con- 
 sort followed, by directions of Napoleon, on 24th April. 
 
 On these people reaching Bayonne, 30th April, they became will- 
 ing instruments in the hands of Napoleon for the enslavement of 
 Spain, and deprived their son Ferdinand of the crown. He was no 
 longer treated with the honours of sovereignity, and was denounced 
 as a rebf^l by liis father. Ferdinand attempted to vindicate his con- 
 duct, and expressed his readiness to resign the crown in presence of 
 the Cortes, or to govern tho kingdom as his father's deputy. 
 
 On 0th May Napoleon had a con ft ret ice with Charles and his 
 Queen, to which Ferdinand was summoned and treated as a culprit. 
 His father asserted his usurpation and his mother denied his legiti- 
 macy, and Napoleon, by tlireats and promises, endeavoured to obtain 
 his abdication, to which he at length yielded. 
 
 It afterwards appeared that on the previous day. May 5th, Charles 
 IV. had already conveyed his rights to Napoleon, who, by an edict to 
 the Supreme Junta at Madrid, had appointed Murat to act as Lieu- 
 tenant of the Kingdom and President of the Council of Government. 
 He likewise issued a proclamation to the peoplo assuring them that 
 he was concerting with his allies measures to promote tho interest of 
 
328 
 
 Spain. Charles rotirocl to Compit'gno, Hupportod by a pension from 
 Napoleon. Ferdinand and his brother Don Carlns were sent off under 
 safe keeping prisoners to the Chiiteau of ValunoiL'iiiKvs. 
 
 The departure of Ferdinand spread alarm through the nation. 
 The French hitherto had been regarded as allies. Tlio progress of 
 their armies had bec^ii silent but sure. At IcMigtli, however, the burden 
 of their armies pressed upon tlie people. Tlie French were haughty 
 and ovorbearing. Castilian pride was wounded by the military arro- 
 gance. A spirit of national animation began to spread, to which the 
 abdication of their monarch give additional strciigtli. There was 
 indignation in every heart and d jtianco on every lip. 
 
 The French took the strictest piocautions to provide for their own 
 security and designs. In various places popular tumults and encoun- 
 ters with the French took place, who regaided the partisaTis of Ferdi- 
 nand aa enemies, and were even anxious for a conflict. 
 
 On the 30th April Murat presented a letter from Charles IV. to 
 the Infante Don Antonio, directing him to send the Queen of Etruria 
 and Don Francisco di Paula, brother to Ferdinand, to Bayonno. 
 
 On May Ist, no intelligence having arrived from 15ayonne, and 
 the next day, May 2nd, being fi.\ed for the departure of the royal 
 personages, great multitudes assenxbled early that morning at the 
 Puerta del Sol, waiting in a state of great e.vcitcnnent the arrival of 
 the expected courier, while the square in front of the palace was 
 crowded with women, who watched the preparations for the journey 
 of the royal party. The cortege departed at 9 o'clock ; but two heavy 
 carriages having still remained at the palace, it was reported that Don 
 Antonio was also going off to Bayonne. The populace became much 
 excited. The cry arose : " They are all forsaking us ! The last of 
 the Royal Family are to bo torn from usi " A violent commotion 
 ensued, and the carriages were broken to pieces. One of Murat's staff, 
 having been sent to ascertain the cause of the tumult, was attacked, 
 and would have been massacred, had not a party of the Imperial 
 Guard arrived in time to rescue him. Murat ordered out a battalion, 
 which fired on the people. This only increased the numerous cries of 
 vengeance. "Death to the French!" "Viva Ferdinando!" rent the 
 air, and masses rushed in armed with whatever weapons they could 
 procure. 
 
 RESUME OF SPANISH NOTES. 
 
 Bonaparte having subdued the Austrians, Russians, and Prussians, 
 and concluded a peace at Tilsit, 1 807, determined on sub- 
 jugating Spain and placing one of his own family on the 
 throne. By various intrigues he created dissensions between Charles 
 
329 
 
 IV. and liis son Ferdiniintl, intondiiig to get thorn into his power by 
 pretending to net as mediator bt'twoon theai. 
 
 Meanwhile Bonaparte hud, in October, 1807, made a treaty with 
 the King of vSpain, to whom ho guanuitood hia domain, but by a secret 
 article added the (livinion of the kingdom of Portugal ; and it was 
 resolved tliat a French army under Otnt.Tal .lunot, who had formerly 
 been ambassador at Lisbon, should enter Spain and thence proceed 
 to Portugal, and in a proclamation declare that the House of Braganza 
 had ceased to reign. 
 
 Having determined to seize upon Portugal, he demanded, early 
 in 1807, that the Portuguese should shut their ports against England, 
 to detain all English and confiscate all English property, threatening 
 war if those terms were not agreed to. The Prince llegent of Portu- 
 gal strongly remonstrated against these unjust measures, but finding 
 it fruitless, he at length, on 8th November, very reluctantly signed 
 the order, and announced his intention of retiring from Portugal to 
 the Brazils. 
 
 Our ambassador at Lisbon, Lord Strangford, protested against 
 the decree, and on 17th November retired on board our fleet, under 
 Sir Sydney Smith. He shortly afterwards succeeded in persuading 
 the Prince Regent to embark for Brazil, leaving a regent to act during 
 his absence ; and on the 2i)tli Novembar the Royal Family sailed under 
 an escort of four English men-of-war. 
 
 No sooner had the Portugiiese fleet departed than Junot appeared 
 close to Lisbon with 28,000 French and a body of Spaniards, and 
 entered the city without opposition, o,s he made great professions of 
 friendship. 
 
 French armies were poured into Spain, and succeeded by various 
 artifices in getting possession of all the principal fortresses. 
 On the abdication of Charles IV. by French intrigues in 
 favour of Ferdinand VII., J^lurat rapidly pushed on and enteix 
 Madrid on 24tli March. 
 
 Bonaparte requires the Royal Family to come to Bayonne, where 
 he forced them to resign the Spanish crown, 5th May, 1808. 
 Napoleon artfully succeeded in getting a contingent of 
 7000 Spanish troops, which he marched into France. 
 
 Joseph appointed King of Spain ; entered Madrid 20th July. 
 
 The supreme command at Seville assumed indedendent powers, 
 proclaimed Ferdinand King, and declared war with France. This 
 Junta was acknowledged as superior by the others in various districvo. 
 Peace was instantly proclaimed with England, and six deputies sent 
 to London, who received liberal assistance in money, arms, and 
 munitions of war. 
 
 General Certanas, Spanish commander at St. Roque, immediately 
 
330 
 
 opened friendly communications with Sir II. Dalrymple, Governor of 
 Gibialtar. 
 
 General Morla succeeded Solano at Cadiz. ■ 
 
 Admiral Rossilly surrendered French fleet 14th June. 
 
 English Admiral Purvis at Cadiz. 
 
 Sii Charles Cotton off Lisbon. 
 
 NOTES FOE HALIFAX. 
 
 There are few places so wretched as to be without some attractions 
 of climate. In tropical countries the night is the swoet season ; in 
 colder climes the day, though not exclusively. Of all the varieties of 
 temperature which I have seen, and of all the places where the air 
 breathe:^ health and life, commend me to the " Indian Summer " of 
 North America, and the picturesque drive round the basin of Halifax 
 harbour. The Indian summer is the "latter autumn" of Europe. The 
 frosts have set in, sharp and keen, in the morning and evening — a 
 clear blue sky, without a cloud, pervr.dos all spaco, and overhead the 
 resplendent sun tempers the atmosphere. The face of nature is then 
 invested with supernatural beauty ; the brilliant hues which dye the 
 bright foliage can be likened only to the high transparent colour 
 which tints the cheek of those — the "favourites of heaven" — whom 
 death prematurely claims ; it is also the precursor of the mortality of 
 nature. Yet a few weeks she wears this gorgeous garb, and, lo ! the 
 night- winds come, the heavens descend, and the earth is wrapped in 
 a shroud of snow ! 
 
 But the death of nature in this climate is the life of man. During 
 the glowing autumn his enjoyment is of a contemplative kind ; but 
 when once the winter has set in his energies are excited, and he leads 
 a life of activity. Of this the sledge-driving, which is called sleighing, 
 is the principal feature. Everyone, however limited his means, con- 
 trives to establish some vehicle on runners, whether it be an ordinary 
 truck for wood, casks sawn in two, the bodies of old gigs, indeed any- 
 thing in which a man may sit. But the fashionable sleighs are 
 carriages of no ordinary pretensions, and rejoice in all the splendour 
 that arctic invention can bestow upon them. The winter of 1816 was 
 remarkable for gaiety : the sleighing of Halifax assumed a new 
 character; the "sleigh club" was established. Originating with the 
 naval and military officers, the "Arcadian Union Club" included all the 
 civilians who chose to become honoraiy members. The judges and 
 other grave functionaries of the law, his Honour the President, the 
 official dignitaries of all degrees, the wealthiest merchants, and of 
 
331 
 
 course the whole of the garrison, composed a numerous and striking 
 assemblage. The laws of the club were simple. A president and 
 vice-president were elected every week, whose duty it was — the first, 
 to lead ; the latter, to bring up the cortege. Another duty, no less 
 pleasing, devolved upon the former : on the days of meeting at the 
 general place of rendezvous, in front of " the Province building," 
 after driving in procession through the town, the club drew up at the 
 President's house, or, at a noted pastrycook's, where he, the President, 
 stood the brunt of "gingerbread and cherry-brandy " for the whole 
 party. This was the luncheon de riyueur provided on the occasion ; 
 but if the roads were firm away all started for "ibe Nine-mile House," 
 at the extremity of the Halifax basin. Then might be seen the 
 caracoling of steeds, the waving of plumes, the glancing of bright 
 eyes, and the gorgeous display of gaudy trappings ; then might he 
 heard the silver tinkling of the collar bells, the laugliter of the ladies, 
 the merry cry of the charioteers, and the mellow notes of the bugle 
 as they rang through the frosty air. It was a sight to warm the 
 frozen, to arouse the torpid, to enliven the dullest. First led the 
 way, with four bright bays, th^e sleigh named "The Aurora Borealis, 
 or Northern Light Conveyance". Eacli carriage bore sume appropriate 
 designation, the body of the carriage, open to the sky, with an 
 enormous bear-skin for an apron ; and, wrapped in shawls and sables, 
 the beauties of Halifax were seen, dispensing smiles to all within their 
 view. In the rumble behind were places for two more — one, whose 
 delight was to blow the bugle ; the other leaned beside him, and 
 talked to the ladies. 
 
 Next, gaily decked in scarlet housings and embroidered collars, 
 and scarcely to bo restrained by their no less impetuous driver, came 
 the "Reindeer," with two gallant steeds, in Indian file, or tandem 
 fashion. Then followed a troop of charioteers, in tandem, curricle, 
 unicorn, and single harness ; first, the "Arctic Eanger," then 
 the " Iceberg," and, close following, the " Esquimaux," the 
 "Chebucto," the "Meteor," the "Walrus," and the "Mic-Mac"; 
 some twenty or thirty sleighs formed the general cavalcade, and 
 
 another four-in-hand, the "Avalanche" — which Mrs. A did not 
 
 disdain to drive — brought up the rear of the procession. All was 
 mirth and glee. The signal-bugle sounded, and via ! wo were off at 
 twelve miles an hour on our track through the snow, with no sound 
 to indicate our rapid flight but the quick harmony of the sleigh bells. 
 Here was every motive for high spirits ; youth, health, no care (save 
 for an upset, and that not cared about), dear friends, and dearer 
 objects still I There was also another end besides driving, which Lord 
 Byron says is "the great end of travqi-''— rthere was the Nine-mile 
 House in perspe.itivj^,, 5i,'w ell-known jalioo of. r'R^ort for the newly-wed ; 
 ,.;,,•;..'• 
 
332 
 
 in fact, the Salt-hill of Halifax, where Arcadian honeymoons are 
 passed. We soon drew near the haven of our wishes, where a famous 
 luncheon was ready. Hot turkeys, smoking caraboo steaks, rein-deer 
 tongues, pickled herrings from Digby, bear-hams from Armopolis, 
 cherry-brandy, noyeau, and Prince Edward's Island whiskey. Here 
 was enough to satisfy all tastes and appetites ; a rapid drive and a 
 thermometer 40 degrees below freezing-point were sufficient excuse 
 for a tuck-in. 
 
 Accordingly all ate, drank, and made merry; we filled a health to 
 the ladies, and coupled it with a speedy return to the Nine-mile House, 
 at which some blushed, others tried to look cross, and the "Princess 
 Royal" laughed outright. 
 
 Eeturning, we reversed the order of driving, the lady led ; and 
 
 soon the word was passed for an impromptu party at the E 
 
 Barracks. 
 
 ANECDOTES OF COLONEL LESLIE. 
 
 The Colonel used to relate the following, which seems to prove 
 he was one of the strongest officers in the British army. It was 
 considered a great feat of strength if, after considerable practice, a 
 man could take the heavy Brown Bess of that day by the muzzle 
 and hold it out at arm's length. One day when the subject was 
 being discussed, the Colonel, who had never done such a thing in 
 his life, coolly took up a musket and held it out at arm's length, 
 to the astonishment of everybody. The reputation of this feat 
 reached the ears of the then Lord Kintore, who was a great 
 patron of athletics ; and when Colonel Leslie next came to Scot- 
 land, Lord Kintore happened to have one of the famous prize- 
 fighters on a visit, and sent him to call on Colonel Leslie, who lived 
 only a few miles off. The Colonel on entering the room was surprised 
 to find his venerable mother chatting away with "the gentleman," 
 she not having, of course, the remotest idea of his real character. On 
 the venerable lady quitting the room, the prizefighter stated his 
 errand, and then examined the Colonel's arm, which he declared was 
 the most powerful one he had ever seen in his life in a non-prof ssional. 
 
 In Ireland the horse he rode could be managed by no other 
 person, but Colonel Leslie controlled him by sheer strength alone. 
 The horse, a stallion, felt it had a master. 
 
Jhj mine Author, 
 
 "EMPLOYMENT OE LIGHT TPiOOPS,'" 
 
 ESPECIALLY IXTEXDED FOR RIFLE CORPS, 
 
 2/f) (c<'r>i scarcf). 
 
 "RECORDS OF LESLIE FAMILY," 
 
 3 vuU:, 10 (C'Ji'i/ scarce).