IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7 /. / -v^^ «. .d to nt ne pelure, 9on ct 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 Three Years of Arctic Service AN ACCOUNT OF THE LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION OF 1881-84 AND TIIF, ATTAINMENT OF THE F A R T II EST NOR T II ADOLFJILJS W. (iREELY LIEUTENANT U. S. AIIMV, COMMANDINQ THE EXI'EDITION ( wirn XKAJUA- OXI-; m:\i)i:i:r> lUAsriiATioss madk fuom riioroauAi us TAKES nr TJii'J I'Aun: axd with tuk official MAI'S AXIJ ClfAIlTS ;< VOL. I. L()NDON [iKMIAUD r. EXTLFY A X T) S () X iDulilislirrs in OiDinanj to l)ri- ^Hnirrytn tl)r tOiiirru 188G [Alt ri'jMa I'esirvcd ] Cu. G V.I 'Ci^ Co the 4i' LADY FRANKLIN I5AY KXPEDITION TIII^SE VOLUMES AKE DKDIC VTKU : TO riS DEAD WHO SUl'KEUED MUCH— TO ITS LIVINO WHO SUl-KEKED MOKE. TUEIK ENKIUiy ACCJMI-LISUEI) TUE FAUTIIEST NOliTU; THEIR riDELlTV WKOCGHT OUT SUCCESS ; lIIEIll COUIIAOE FACED DEATH UNDAUNTEDLY; TriEIB lOYALTY AND DISCIPLINE IN ALL THE DVKI DAYS i:vsntED THAT THIS KECOliD OF T lEIl! SEUVICE.! SHOULD liH GIVEN TO THE W^niLD '* It m • m PREFACE. These volumes nppear in response to the demands of the general piiMic for a popular account of the Lady Fi-anklin Bay Expedition ; and in theii- prej.uration I have spared neither health nor strengtli since the ren- dition of my official narrative to the War Department has left me free. The Secretary of War kindly granted me authority to incorporate in this work such official journals, maps, etc., as I might desire. Tiiis narrative, however, is based on my diary, though I have drawn freely, always with credit, fj-om the official field reports, a.id also from the very com- plete journals of Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard, the only regular diaries, w'th my own, kept during the retreat and our subsequent life at Camp Clay. Fearing exaggeration, I have occasionally modified statements and opinions entered in my original jour- nal, believing it better to underrate than enlarge the wonders of the Arctic regions, which have been too often questioned. I have profited largely by the acute criticism of my vi PREFACE. wife, who, stimulated into intense activity by the criti- cal situation of the expedition during its last year of service, a('(iuired a more than cursory knowledge of Arctic work. During the doubtful time she noted with keen perception the vital importance of the re- jected bounty scheme and urged it through sympa- thizing friends to final passage. The engravings arc faithful re})roduction3 of an un- eipialled series of Arctic views, the work of vSergcant Rice, the photographer, except field sketches — always noted — and original drawings made und<'r my suj)er- visioD, for the correctness of which I personally vouch. No pen could ever convey to the world an adetpiate idea of the abjeci misery and extreme wretchedness to which we were reduced at Cape Sabine. Insuf- ficiently clothed, for months without drinking water, destitute of warmth, our slee[)ing-bags frozen to the ground, our walls, roof, and floor covered wdth frost and ice, subsisting on one-fifth of an Arctic ration — ■ almost without clothing, light, heat, or food, yet we were never without courage, faith, and hoj)e. The ex- traordinary sj)irit of loyalty, patience, charity, and self- denial, — daily and almost imiversally exhil)ited by our famislKid and nearly maddened party, — must be read be- tween the lines in the account of our daily life ])enned under such desperate and untoward circumstances. Such words, written at such a time, I have not the heart to enlarge on. The tragic experiences of the party excited such a PREFACE. Til puljlic interest, further intensified by exaggerated and unfounded statements on many points, that I have felt <»l)lige(l to touch briefly upon all disagreeable ques- tions. In so doing I have adhered to the stern facts, while I have modified the acerbity of my judgments, remembei-ing always that I speak of the dead, and be- ing able in comfort and plenty to judge more lenient- ly than when slowly perishing from cold, disease, and starvation. For a quarter of a century a public servant, in war and in peace, ray faults are known. Cruelty and in- justice, however, are foreign to my nature ; and I re- joice that during the nine months I commanded a par- ty of suffering, starving, and dying comrades, I never treated any man other than he justly merited. In this spirit I submit these unvarnished records of Arctic service to the public. A. W. GllEELY. VVasuinoton, January 5, 1886. r- ORDERS AND INSTRUCTIONS GOVERNINO THE ORGANI- ZATION AND MANAGEMENT OE THE LADY EKANK- UN BAY EX1»EDIT10N. SriiXTlAI. OuDERfi, No. 57. HE.\ixiUARTEna OP Tirn Ahmy, ADJl'TANT-GENEliAIi'S OPFIOE, Wasiiinuton, March 11, 18H1. (Extract.) 2. By direction of tho rrosiilont, First Limitonant A. W. (h-celi/. Fifth Cavalry, acting .'*ignal oiliecr, is hereby assiguoil to thi; command of tho expeditionary forco now organizing under tho provisions of tho acts of Congi-ess approved May 1, ISHO, and March ;{, 1881, to oHtablish a sta- tion nortli of the eighty-first degree of north latitnde, at or near Lady Franklin Bay, for tho purjjoses of scientilio observation, etc., as set forth in said acts. During his absence on this duty Lieutenant (Ireehi will retain station at Washington, District of Columbia. By OOMMANU of GKNElSAIi SlIEltMAN : K. C. DRUM, AdjiUant-Uent'niL General Ordeiw, No. a5. Headquarters of tite An^nr, Adjutant-Gexfj{ai/s Oi^ncE, WAsniNoroN, April 12, 1881. The following order, received from the War Department, is published for the information of the Army : In order to carry into execution the act approved May 1, 1880, and so much of tho act approved March IJ, 1881, entitled " An act making appropriations for sundry civil expenses of the Government for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1882, and for other purposes," as provides i <»i:i)i:i:s a.\i» ixstkuctioxs. ix for "observation and cxplomtion in the Arcti.. seas ; for rontinnin- tho work of sciontilio olworvution and exploration on or n.ar tli,. siiores of Lady Franlilin iiay, and f„r transportation of men and supplies to said loeation and return, twvnty-live thousand dollars," it is ordered • 1. First Lieutenant A. 11'. <.>,-,■/-/, Fifth U. S. Cavalrv, acting si.nrd en.eer, havnig volunteered for tho expedition, shall take connnaud of the expeditionary foree now orga.iizinff under said act to establish a station north of the eighty-lirst degree of north latitu.le, at or near Lady Iranklui Vmy, for the purpose of seientilic observation. '2. Lieutenant r/m;/// shall have authority to eontraet {or and j.nrehase withm the limits of the appropriation, the supplies and transportation deemed needful for tho expedition ; and tho appropriation for this 1-urpose, nuido by tho act approved March 3, IS.Sl. shall bo drawn from the Treasury and disbursed, upon pi'oper vouchers, bv tho ivnihir dis- bnrsnig oflicer „f the Signal Service, under the direction of die Chief Signal Olllcer. 55. Tho force tr, or whaler, shall not be hired until it has been insj-ectcd by an oflicer to be d.'tailed bv tlie ..ecretaiy of tho Xavy for that purpose, and found by him lit foV the intend(Hl service. .0. The expeditionary force shall bo assembled at AA'ashin-ton, District of Columbia, not later than May 15, and at St. Jolm not later than June 15, ISHl. (i. During their absence on this duty Lieutenant r/nWv, and the oth, r olhcersof the Army aecomi.mying the exp.Hlition, will I'etain stati.m at AAashington, District of Colun.bia. The enlisted men, who mav volim- toer or be .specially enlisted for this duty, shall receive the pa^ and commutation alloManc^s (except commutation for (juarters and 'fuel) that accrue to men detached for duty in Washington, District of C'Oiumuia. ,4 X oi;nKi;s axd rxsTiiucTioxs. 7. Tho sovoTiil burpiius of tlio War ])(>iiiU'tinont will furnish, on requi- sitions iipprovod by tho Sccri't.uy if War, tlu! ni't'ossary siibsistonco, clothing, cauii) and garrison eciuipago, tninsportation to St. John, X.'wfounaiaud, and return, nii'dii-inos, books, instmrncnts, hosintal Htcvos, arms, and auununition. The subsi.sti'iico stores to be furnished as above dirci-tcd are for sale, not fur issue, to the ollicers and men of the expeditionary foreo. Bl- eO:MMANl) OF GeNEUAL SlIKKMAN : 11. C. DllUM, Ailjitlant-GcieruL Special Otuiees, Xo. ;». ^^■Ar. l)r.rAKT:\iENT, Office of the Ciiu-.f SKiXATj Offtcer, ) ■\VAsiiiN(iTON, 1). C, June 17, 1881. 1. Jiy direetion of tlic^ Secretary of War, the following-named ofHccrs and enlisted men are assigned lo duty as the expeditionary foreo to Lady Franklin Bay : Firat Lieutenant A. W. Cii;i:i:tA-, Fifth Cavalry, Acting Signal Oflieer ; Second Lieutenant FuEDKiurii. F. Kislinoisfuv, Eleventh Infantry, Acting Signal Olllcer ; Second Lieutenant Tajd-s B. Loc'kwooi), Twenty-thii'd Infantry, Act- ing Signal Onicor ; Sergeant Fdwakd Isr.AEr,, Signal Corps, F. S. Army ; Sergeant Winfii'ld S. Ji'.wei.l, Signal (,'orps, U. S. Army ; Sergeant Geouse W. Hice, Signal Corps, U. S. Army ; Sergeant David C. Kaeston, Signal Coi'ivs, U. S. Ai'iny ; Sergeant Hampden S. Gauuineu, Signal Corps, U. S. Army ; Sergeant WUiEiAM II. Cuoss, General Service, U. S. Army ; Sergeant David L. Buainakd, Company L, Second Cavalry ; Sergeant David Lynn, Company C, Second Cavaliy ; Corporal Daniel C. t/rAUK, Company F, Second Cavalry ; Corporal Faul CiuiMM,* Company H, Eleventh Infantry ; Corporal Xk'UOLas Saeou, Comi)any II, Si'cond Cavalry; C'orporal Johefii Elison, Company E, Tenth Infantry ; I'rivate Charles B. Henuv, C\>mpany E, Fifth Cavalry ; Private Mat-uice Coxnell, Company B, Third Cavalry; Private Jacoij Bendek, Comi)any F, X'intli Infantiy ; *r!rimm h.aving doicrtcJ, he was replaced by Private Roderick R. Schneider, Fu'Bt Artillery. mrj ov.nFAi^ Axn iNSTiu'cxroxs. XI Private FijAXfis Lox(!, Company F, Ninth Infantry; Private Wtr.r.r.vM Wiilsm:!!, CDUijiuny F, Ninth Infantry ; Private Hknky Ijikudkuiuck, Company (1, Sovontconth Infantry; Private JuLirs Fuedkrick, Company L, Second Cavahy ; Private Ja5Ies Kvax, Clompany 11, Horinul Cavahy ; I'rivate Willi.ui A. Ellis, Clompany C, HecDud Cavahy. 2. First Lieutenant A. W. Gkeelv, Fifth Cavahy, Acting Signal Officer and Assistant fd the Ciiief Signal Ollicor, is lierehy assigned to the com- mand of the expedition, and is charged with tlie execution of the orders and instructions given below. Ho will «'orward all reports and observa- tions to the Chief Signal Ollicer, who is charged with the control and supervision of the expedition. ^\'. B. HAZEN, Bri'jiulier <(ii'ii'jind Ojfio.r, U. .S. A. Instiuttioxs, ) No. 7U. f \\'.vi; DEl>A^,T^rE^•T, Office of tiii: Chief Sion'.vtj Offic'er, "WAKHixfiToN, ]). C. June 17, ISSl. The following general instructions will govern in the (>stablislnnent and management of the expedition organized un(h'r Special Orders. No. 07, War Dt>partment, oihce of the Chief Signal Ollicer, Wa-hiugton, D. C, dated June 17, 1S81: The iwmfwc/;/ station will lie established at the most suitable point north of the eighty-lirst jiarallel, and contiguous to the coal seau) dis- covered near Lady Franklin Hay by the j'higlish expedition of ]S7,1. After leaving St. John, Newfoundland, except to obtain Esiininmux hunters, dog.s, clothing, etc., at Uisco or Upernivik, oidy such stops will be made as the coi dition of the ice necessitates, or as are essenti;d in order to determine the exact location and condition of the stores cached on the east coast of Grinnell Land by the English expedition of 1875. During any enforcinl delays along that coast it would be well to .supplement the English depicts by such sinall cachets from the steamer's stores of provisions as would be valuabh- 1,, a j.arty r.>treating southward by boats from Ilobeson Cliamu'l Ai each jioint where an old depot is cxamhiedor a new one established, three brief notices will be h'ft of the visit-one to be deposited in the cairn built or found standing ; one to be placed on the north side of it ; and one to be buried tw(>ntv feet north (magnetic) of the cairn. Notices discovered in cairns will bo brought away, replacing them, however, by cojiies. The steamer ihould, on arrival at \\n- p,'r,iht,„'i,l station, discharge her cargo with the utmost despatch and be ordered to return to St. xu OlIDI-niS AND IXSTIJUCTIOXS. John. Nowfoniullaml. After a careful oxainiiiatioii of tlio seam of coal at that point has been iiiadoby tho party, to iletonuiuo whether an ainplo supply is easily procurable, a report in writint? on this siibjeet will bo sent by the returning vessel. In case of doubt, an auiplo supply must be retained from the steamer's stores. By the returning steamer will bo sent a brief report of proceedings, and as full a trnu.-,iript as iiossible of all meteorological and otiier t)b- servations made during the voyage. After the departure of tho vessel tho energies of tho party should first be devoted to the erection of tho dwelling-house and observatories, after which a sledge party will be sent, according to tho proposal mado to the >«'avy Department, to the high la'ul near Capo Josei)h Henry. The sledging parties will generally work in tho interests of explora- tion and discovery. The work to be done by them shoidd be marked by all possible care and lidelity. The outlines of coasts enti^rcd on charts will be such oiUy as have actually been seen by tho party. Every favor- able opportunity will be imiiroved by the sledging iiartics to det(>rmlno accurately the geographical position of all their camps, and to obtain the bearing therefrom of all distant clifTs, mountains, islands, etc. Careful attention will be given to tlie collection of specimens of tho animal, mineral, and vegetable kingdoms. Such cdUectioiis will bo made as complete as ^lossible, will be considered the iiioperty of tho Government of the United States, and are to be at its disposal. Slieeial instructions regarding th(> meteorological, magnetic, tidal, pendulum, and other observations, as recommended l)y tlie Hamburg International Polar Cfniferi'iice, are transmitted herewith. It is contemplated that \\w peniiain'iit station sluill be visited in IHSlJ and in l.SS."> by a steam, sailing, or other vessel, by wliicli supplies for and such additions to the present party as are deemed aei.'dful will bo sent. In case the vessel is unable to reach there in 1SS2, she will cache a ]i()rtion of her stippli(>s and all of her letters and desputches at the most northerly point she attains on the ciist ajus/ nf (irlinn'll Lain/, and estab- lish a small -lepot at Littleton Island. Notices of the locality of such depots will bo left at one or all oi the following jjlaces, viz.. Capo Hawks, Capo Sabine, and Cap(> Isabella. In case no vessel reat'hes the ji'TiinDii-n/ station in 1882, tho vessel sent in 188.'} will remain in Sniilli Sound until tliiM'e is danger of its closing by ice, and. on li-avint:', will land all her suiijilit's and a jiarty at Littleton Island, which ])arty will ho. jirepared for a wintt'r's stay, and will be instructed to send sledge i)arties uj) tln^ '"'is/ sii/': af (iriiniril 1,11)1(1 to meet this jiarty. If not visited in 18S2. Lieutenant Grei'Iy will abandon his station not later than September 1, 1883, and will retreat m «■ ■I ;/, OKDKK.S AXD IXSTRUCTIOX.S. Xlll sontlnvard by hoat, frtllowinp: closely tlio cant coast of Grinnell Land until the relieving vessel is met or Littleton Island is reached. In view of the familiarity of Lieutenant Greely witli tho methods pursued l)y previous expeditions, and of the contidenco reposed in his judgment and discretion, it is not thought necessary to furnish him with more definite instructions than those contained in the following pages. "While ho is left at full liberty to vary the details according to circum- stances, yet the main points here given should be hold in xrow as of predominant importance. W. B. HAZEN, Brlyadier and Uren-t Majnr fioncral. Chief Si'jnul Office); U.S. J. Tfsssaam TECHNICAL TER:\IS USED IX THESE VOLITMES. Boring is the oporation of forcing a ship through erowileil ico by steam or sail. ■Waiu'ing is moving a vessel ahead by means of ropes fustonod to somo distant fixed objeet. A Field consists of pieces of closely aggregated ico covering an exten- sive area. Bay-ii'e or Hakhou-he is that f.nnnally foi'med in closed bays or seas. P.VNCAKE is a piece of bay-ico of considerable size and thickness. FiiOE is a largo piece of bay-ieo (or paheocrystic ice), sometimes miles in extent. Be-set. — The situation of a vessel when closely surrounded by ico through •«-hich it can move with dilHculty or not at all. IcE-r.LiSK, or Ice-sky. — A brightness in the sky caused by large; bodies of ico in that quarter. IIiMMucivS. — T'neven, irregular parts of Hoes ^Yhich rise above the level, as hills above the jilain. L.A.XU-ICE, or Fast-ice.— Ico attached to land either in floes or in heavy grounded masses. Lane, or Lead.— A narrow channel between masses of ice, through wh h a vessel may pass. KirrED. — The situation of a ship when forcibly jjrossed or jammed by ice. Pack.— Largo masses of ico in close proximity covering considerablo area. When the i)ieces are densely crowded it is a cliLto pack, wlu-n water-spaces and lanes aro f reiiuent it is an o/wh pack. Sailino-ice.— A pack sulliciently opoii. to allow a sailing-shii) to pass thnnigh. SruKVMs. — Long, narrow collections of broken ice. Watku-sky.— A dark-looking sky, indicating open water in that di- rection. lii-nr.LE.— Small, sharii, irregular pieces of ice, many of wliich aro loose. Foi'med generally from //<»nii/ ire, which has beou broken or ground \\\) by action or ])ressnre of heavy fiocs. Tidal Ckack.— Cracks formed by the action of tides — gen(!rally a break between the main body of ice and thut which remains fast to tlio TECJIMOAL TERMS. XV lanrl. Thronffh this, during heavy, rising titles, water flows, which IS called tidal ori:rf/oir. Pal-eocrystic Ice is tliat of such character and great thicJcnoss as must have required many years' time for its formation. Its general shape IS in floes, with undulating surfaces, like liills and valleys of a rolling country. ° FLOEnEn(i.-Apal.x.ocrystic iceberg difl-ering from common icebergs in Its regularly cubical shape, level top and bottom, strictly porp.-n- dicular .sides, regular lines of cleavage, and apparent stratified struct- ure. Ice-foot. -Sea-ice wlueli forming against the land remains attached to 1 mimoved by action of tides. It is separated from the main, mov- able ice by a tidal crack. YouNo IcE.-Ice rec.mtly fornunl, in contradistinction to old ice which is at least oi previous winter's formatiuu. i. .v i wwu i u.. w ».. ■ ? : « «»-^» ^mammmm CO]^TE]^TS -VOLUME I. CHAl'TER I. THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUXD, . . CHAPTER n. INTERNATIONAL CIRCUMPOLAR STATIONS, ^q CHAl'TEK in. GREENLAND, . 35 CaiPTER IV. ORGANIZATION AND EQUIP3IENT, CH.\rTER V. THE VOYAGE TO UPERNIVIK. CHAPTER VI. MELVILLE BAY TO FORT CONGER, . CHAPTER VEL THE RETURN OF THE PROTEUS ' ■ * • " • • . oO ■Ill iai«»<{^i^W xviii CONTENTS. CHM'TEll Vm. VAOR FORT CONGER, 87 CHAPTER IX. AUTUMN SLEDGING, 96 CH.iPTEll X. SUNLIGHT TO DARKNESS, .116 CHAPTER XI. OUR SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATIONS, . . . . , . .124 CHAPTER Xn. HYGIENE AND ROUTINE, . . . . . . . . .184 CHAPTER Xm. SLEDGING IN THE ARCTIC TWILIGHT, 147 CHAPTER XIV. OUR FIRST DARK DAYS, 154 CHAPTER XV. CHRISTMAS AND THE NEW YEAR, 171 CHAPTER XVL WINTER EVENTS, 179 CONTENTS. XIX PAOK . «7 CHM^TEll XVII. PREPARATIONS FOR SLEDGING, • • • . FAoa . lOU . 96 CH.\PTER XMII. THANK GOD HARBOR AM) HALLS GRAVE, . . 313 lir . 124 134 M™ CHM^TEll XIX. ESTABLISHING DEPOTS, . 227 * * . 238 CHAPTEll XX. NORTHWARD OVER THE FROZEN SEA, . CHAPTEPi XXI. CHANDLER FIORD, 258 . 147 . 164 . 171 CHM^TEIl XXII. LAKE IIAZEN, • ■ . 273 CPLU^TER XXin. THE FARTHEST NORTH.— CONGER TO CAPE BRYANT, . . 295 CHAPTER XXIV. THE FARTHEST NORTH. -CAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASHING- TON, • • • • 320 179 CHAPTER XXV. LOCKWOOD ISLAND AND RETURN, . • • . 336 w CONTENTS. CHM'TER XXVI. SI'11IN(5TIME AND SUxADIKU, • t TAdl. . ;ir.i CHAPTER xx^•^. SUMMER EXPLORATIONS 30(5 CHAPTEIJ XXVm. SUMMER EXPLORATIONS {('ondmled: 391 CHAl^TEPv XXIX LAUNCH TRIPS, 417 w rA(ii. 300 391 417 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME I. PORTRAIT OF LIEUTENANT A. W. GREELY, U.S.A Fmitispiece. ENOKAVEU on STBEL HV CllAULKS SCULECUT. FULL- PA OE ILL USTllA TI0N8. Enamved, witfimt drawimjs, from plwtouvuplm by Sergeant George W. like, Photographer of the E.vpedition. Face Page. Eskimo Kayakeus off the Coast of Disco i Genekai, View op Godhavn, Gueenland, pbom Adjacent Cliffs. . 29 ME.MUEKS OF Lady Fuanklin Bay Expedition, 1881-84 40 IcEBEuas IN Disco Bay. . . r« oO Mdsk-ox Killed near Fout Congeh jq^ Lake Alexandka, near Discovery Harhor, Looking West 122 Game-stand at Conger, avitii Bellot Island tn Background 138 Making Ready for a Sledge Journey from Fort Conger 152 IcE-FooT and Pressed-up Ice, Cape Murciiison, Robeson Channel. 108 Lieutenant Gbeelv's Corner, at Fort Conger igQ Arctic Clouds over Bellot Island jgg " TuE Arctic Highway "-Rcrrle and Hummock Ice 225 XXii LIST OV ILLrSTUATION'S. Frtrai!atin(i Bk;.lo\vsam) Black Rock Valleys 3(J8 I'l.AN OK Anciiont' Eskimo IIolse _ ;53^ Eskimo Stone Lamp, Foind nkau Cai-k Baiim), si :{()' N 420 ClIANDl.KU FlOlil) LooKlNfi WKSTWAKI), 1I)A IJay TO ExTKEMK LKIT 1','4 /JST OF MAJ'S. Face Parjc. AiuTic RK(ii()Ns, SiiowiNo Location of Ciiufmi-olak Stations, ISHl-KJ 0;j FoHT CoNCEii AM) Vicinity ^-. Em'i.okations isY LikitknantJ. B. Locuwoon, U.S.A., 1883 ;;(M DiSCOVEKlKs MadK IN XoUTll (i UIOKNI.ANl) l!V LlKlTENANT .1. B. LOCKWOOI), I'.S.A ;JO,^ Dl8COVKI!li:s IN GUINNELL LAND MaI)!: IIY LlKUTF.NANT A. W. (llii;!:- i'^'. U.S.A ;.,,! :{:{8 / -^ I I>KIMU KAV\Ki;i'.> nil I III; < I1A~T (;!' 1)1 jl O. 1 Fii'iii 't ljlilllt<;ll 'It'll ■) Sanderson's Hope, \ThtjUi'the.stvJ-JoUn Ikivis^ 158T.J CHAPTER I. TlIK PIONEKUS (»F SMITH SOUND. TUST three centuries ago, on ti fair duy of .luno, 1585, two tiny craft sailed from Dartmouth in (juest of the North- west Passage. Tiiey were conniiandeil by a l)rave man, a (hir- ing explorer and skilful seaman, .lolm Davis, of Sandridge. This venturesome voyage of one of England's most distin- guished seamen resulted in the rediscovery of (irecnland, and may l»e said to have opened the Smith Sound route to the Pole. Davis sighted Greenland July 20tli. He well describes it as a " hiiid being very high and full of mightie niountaincs all covered with siiowe, no viewe of wood, grasse or earth to be scene, and the shore two leagues off into the sea full of vce. The lothsomo view of the shore, and irksome noyse of the yce 2 THREE YEAUS OF AltCTIC SERVICE. was such that it bred strange conceites aiuoiig iis." On July 29th ho was off the west coast, near Godtliaab, having "past al the yce and found many greeno and pleasant Isles bordering upon the shore." Crossing the strait which now bears his name, Davis reached Cape Dyer, and later sailed nearly to the head of Cumberland Sound. lie returned to Dartmouth September 30th. In 15SG and 1587 he visited Davis Strait, and in the latter year reached, on the western coast of Greenland, latitude 12° 41' N. Davis' discoveries M-ere remarkable. They covered the west coa i of Greenland frohi Cape Farewell to Sanderson's Hope, ^ id, on the American side, from Cape Dyer, Cumber- land Inland, to Southern Labrador. Ills descriptions of the Greenlanders are quaint, curious, and instructive, showing them to have been, three centuries ago, the same " tractable people void of craft or double dealing" as we know them to be at the present time. Davis was followed by another able seaman and great dis- coverer, William Baffin, who, in the Discovery, a craft of only fifty-five tons, sailed, March 26, 1616, from Gravesend. He sighted Greenland, May 1-ith, and on the 30th of that month had reached Davis' farthest point, Sanderson's Hope, in 72° 41' N. June 9th ho was stopped by ice at I^affin Isl- ands, 73° 54' N. Leaving his aiu'horage, June ISth, ho took what is known as the " Middle Passage " across Melville Bay, and reached, July 1st, an open sea — the " North Water " of the whalers of to-day. Passing Capes York, Atholl, and Parry, he yet pushed northward, and on July 5th attained his farthest point, within sight of Cape Alexander. His latitude, about 77° 45' N., remained unequalled in that sea for 236 years. Baffin, in quaint language, says he was forced by ice " to stand backo THE riONKEKS OF SMITH SOUND. 8 •n July r " past i-dering reached iberlantl le latter ude 72° sred the iidersoirs Cumber- •ious, and s ago, the g" as we eat dis- of only end. He it month lope, in iffin Isl- he took ville Bay, ater" of lul Parry, is farthest about 77° Baffin, md backo some eiirht leamies to an iland we called Ilakhiits He — it lyeth betweene two great Sounds, the one Whale Sound, and the other Sir Thomas Smith's Sound ; this last runneth to the north of 78°, and is admirable in one respect, because in it is the greatest variation of the compasse of any part of the world known ; for by divers good observations I found it to be above five points, or 5G degrees varied to the westward." A few days later Bafiin turned southward, having in this wonderful voyage sailed over three hundred miles farther north tlian his predecessor, Davis. lie thus added to geo- graphical knowledge Ellesmero and Prudhoe Lands, and Baffiu Bay, with its outlying sounds of Smith, Jones, and Lancaster. Sixteen hundred and sixteen was evidently a good year for ice-navigation, as BaflSn's time to Cape York, in his tiny sailing craft, has not been greatly surpassed by the powerful steam- ers of to-day. Li 1871, Captain William Adams, the veteran whaler, reached the " Koi-th Water " June 3d, and rounded Cary Islands to the north on the 7th. The Arctic, under Captain Adams, reached Cape York June 9, 1873, and in 1883 several whalers were off that point by June 3d. In 1884 the Belief Squadron and three whalers entered the " North Water " June 18th. They had been stopped by ice on the -Ith, near the same point where Baffin had been similarly delayed, June 9, J 010. For two centuries the waters first navigated by Baffin re- mained unvexed by any keel, and the very credit of his dis- coveries passed away. In 181S Barrington, in " Possibility of Approaching the Xorth Pole Asserted," put forth a chart with the legend, " Baffin's Bay, according to the relation x)f AY. Baffin, in 1610, but not now believed." Sir John Barrow, in his " Chronological History of the Voyages into the Arctic Regions," 1818, omitted Baffin Bay f j'om his circumpolar chart. -ip- 4 TIIUKK YEARS OP AKCTIC SKUVICK. The samo year in wliicli these ina^s appeared (ISIS"), Cap- tain John Iluss, comniandiii^, In tlie Jsabolhi, witli Liotiteiiaiit (since Admiral) William I'any, in the Alexander, .sailed I'rum Lerwick, May 3d. They were stopped by ice dune ITtli, just north ot Disco Island. The vessels crossed Melville I>ay v.'ith some difficulty, and remained moored to the land-ice near Jhislman Island, oft Cape ^'ork, for about a week. On August IHh thi'y iirst met the natives of that region, to whom lloss gave the name of Arctic Highlanders. From the account of lloss we learn that the natives at that time had sledges, dogs, knives, spears, and lances suited for tlie chase of land or sea game. Their iron for knife-blades and other purposes was obtained from meteoric blocks near Cape York. They apparently had no idea of other people living to the soutli. lioss pushing on, at midnight August iOth the Isabella was in latitude 76° 54' 'N., the Cary ""^slands bear- ing S.E. This was the most northerly point reached. He considered the sound to the northward a closed bay, and says : "Smith Sound, discovered by I'affin, was distinctly seen, and the capes fornung each side of it were named after the two ships, Isabella and Alexander : I considered the bottom of this sound to be about eighteen leagues distant." It is evident that the points seen were not Capes Isal)ella and Alexander of to-day, as they are from eighty to ninety n;iles distant from lioss' ])Osition. More probably he sighted Capes Faraday and Hubert- son, which correspond better to the estimated distances, lioss in like manner reported Jones and Lancaster Sounds, which he cursorily examined later, to be closed bays. He returned to England in October, having, with his well-found ships, accom- plished results far less striking and important than those wrought by Ijatlin with his frail shalU)p. 1 (if this cut thiit ■1 4 t to-(hiy, 4 in lloss' ■| Kohcrt- ^. lloss vhicli lie iinied to <, iiccoin- , wrought THE I'lOXKKUS OF SMITH SOl'ND. O To the late (Vdiiiiral Ingletiokl, Il.X., hcloiigH the credit «if first detoriiiiiiing tho extent of Smitli Sound. Captain Ingleliold left tho Tiianies, .Inly 5, 1852, in tiie screw-schooner lsal)el, one hundred and forty-nine tons, with tho intention of searching tlie deep inlets of Ijaffiu I'ay for Sir John Franklhi's party, and with the hope of setting at rest the question of an entrance into the great polar hasin through Smith Sound. Cape Farewell was sighted on the ;3()th, and Crystal Palace Cliffs from Littleton Island, with Capo Alexander at tlio "grit. IDiscuvcrcii liij .Ulniiiiil liiii/i ilrlil, /.'..v., lii."it.', j Tpcrnivik reached August 15th. On August 21st the Isabel w;is off Cape York, and the following day Captain Inglefield coinniunicated witli Esldmo, near I'etowik ghicier. lie was convinced that they had never ])efore seen Europeans. They were clad in bear, fox, reindeei-, and seal skins. ^>o European wares were found, nor were any kayaks seen. At Xorth Oinenak caches of meat and winter clothing were found. In summer the natives occupy seal-skin tents, and in winter an underground burrow. In Hardin Bay an Eskimo i ^- 6 TIIUIOK YKAIiS OF AUCTIC SKKVICK. vilhij^o was found, where tlieio wore iiiaiij dogs uiul sledges, l)iit no kay.iks. At 12 I'.M. of the 20tli, rai)c Aloxfinder, tlio farthest point seen hy l»af!in, was passed, and IngUitield says : " Then I belield the open sea stretcliing throngli seven points of tlie compass . . . bounded on tlie east and west by distant lieadlands" (Capo Albert to the west). ( )n the 27th, at midday, lie reached 7S° 21' X, ; placing the Isabel "about one liundred and forty Tiiiles farther than had been reached by any previous navigator, of whom we have any record." A strong northerly gale w.ih low temperature obliged Ingle- ticld to return southward. Thence he ran into tlones St)und, where, on September 1st, he reached S4' 10' W., 7<»° 11' N. ile later visited Sir Kdward Uelcher's s(iuadron, at IJeechy Island, and turning homewujd remained within the Arctic circle until Ociohtr Vltlt. lie reached Stormness November 4th. Sir Francis I'eaufort well called this voyage one of the most remarkable on record. Ingletield laid down nearly six hundred miles of new coast, corrected many errors of position, outlined Smith and penetrated far into Jones Sound, and brought back valuable meteorological and other scientitic data. An American, Elisha Kent Kane, first passed the northern portal of Smith Sound, and entered the sea which bears his name. Kane's vessel, the Advance;, was fitted out at the ex- ])etise of JJenry (Jrinnell and (ieorge I'eabody. She left New York i\[ay 30, 1S53. Fiskernaes was visited, and Hans llen- drik, then a youth, engaged as hunter and dog-driver. Furs, skins, and dogs were gathered up at various points, and IJper- iiivik was reached July 17th. They passed Caj)e York August 4th, and were off Littleton Island on the 7th. Life-boat Cove, to the eastward of the island, received its name fron; the cache of life-boat and provisions there made. ^«^ THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND. t Kano attoinptcd to push noi-tliwiird along tho Grecnlaiul coast, but strong gales ami tho heavy Hoes, with new ico already forming, drove him, August 24th, to tho nearest sheltei-. Van Kensselaor Ilarhor, in 78° 37' N., 70° 40' W. During the autumn several caches v/ero established for spring travelling. Nearly all tho dogs died during tho winter. Scurvy attacked the party, but fortunately no death occurred among them. An unfortunate sledge-journey, in March, 1854, however, resulted in the death of two men, and tho nuiiming by frost of two others. A journey to tho northeast, made by Kano in April, iiad no result. Dr. ILayes, leaving on ^Fay 20th, succeeded, in twelve days' absence, in crossing Kane I'asin, and reached 79° 4J}' X., in the vicinity of Capo Fra/.er. Hayes was tho first explorer to put foot on Cirinnell Land. Morton, on tho Green- laud coast, succeeded, Juno 24th, in scaling tho south side of Cape Constitution, about 80" 35' X. From an elevation of five huiulred feet, ho saw open water as far north as eye could reach, probably to Capo Liober, 81° 32' X^. Ii. other words, he found Keimedy Channel open, a condition which doubtless occurs nine years out of ten. In July, 1S54, the ice not having broken up in Van Rensse- laer Harbor, Kane realized his dangerous position and attempted to reach Beechy Island, some four hundred miles distant, by boat. lie hoped to Hud there an English vessel, and to obtain assistance. He was forced to return, having been imablo even to reach Capo Pariy. On August 2Sth, Hayes with eight others, leaving Kane, started south with the object of reaching Upernivik, preferring the dangers of such a trip to a second winter in the ice. After great suffering they returned in December to tho Advance, in a state bordering on starvation. Kane received them kindly, though Hayes's departure bore to many tho stamp of desertion. Tho second winter brought ro- m^ 8 THIIKK YEAUS OF AUCTIC 8EUVICK. iiowcd and increaHcd scurvy, which \vlt tho party in a doplor- able condition a« tho sprint^ of 1855 approached. Tlio oidy recourrio then waw tho nljandoninent of tiio hri<;, and a boat journey to rpernivik. Tiio vessel was formally abandoned May 20th, and on dune ITtli Kane launched his boats in open water near Cape Alexantler. I'y indefatii;;able efforts the party, with its invalids, records, and most important instruments, had been moved over the intervening eighty miles of rough, difllcnlt ice. One man, ( )hlsen, died en route, from an internal strain, and was buried on Littleton Islatul in sight of tho cape which bears his name. JIaua llendrik, deserting, reuuiined with tho Etah Eskimo. Capo York was doubled by the party duly 2ist, and, following the fast ice of Melville Bay, on August (Jth they reached Upernivik. Kane's search for Franklin was fruitless, but he increased largely our knowledge of .\irtic lands. Ills physical observa- tions were more valuable! and complete than those of any pro- ceding expedition, lie atlded to geogra[>hy lu'w lands, the most northern of his day, and made known to the world tho life and customs of the I']tah Eskimo. His heroic steadfast- ness, restless energy, and manly fortitude did honor to America, and his stirring narrative, unfortunately marred by exaggera- tions, gave a new impetus to Arctic work, and doubtless ex- cited in many a youth his first longings for exploration and adventure. Dr. I. I. Hayes, Kane's surgeon, next attempted the Smith Sound route, to complete its survey's and reach tho " open Polar Sea." He left Boston in tho schooner United States, July 7, 1860, and on August 12th reached Upernivik, where ho added six to liis crew, making its total complement twenty-one. On August 25tli the vessel was off Capo York, and there Hayes connnunicated with the Etah Eskimo. Hans Hendrik, wlio I'lIK IMONKKllS OF SMITir S(U'Nl). is, the tho adfast- iierica, lii'iiera- !ss ex- 011 and Smith i'ohu- July 7, atUled c. On Ilaycs who fivo years previous had (lu.scrti'il Kane on hin retreat, was hero atided to the party, with his Ktah wile and habe. Meetiiij^ near ("ape Ah^xaiider a suceessioM oF furious nortiierly gales which injured his vessel and retarded his progress, Hayes was ohliged to winter south of Littleton Island, in FoulUc Fiord, 78'^ 18' X., 73" W. Durinir the winter Haves lost Ills astronomer, Sonntair, who perished on a sledge; trip with Hans HelidriU in an attempt to coniinunicato with the Eskimo in Whale Sound. One of tho Eskimo, Peter, deserted his jnirty and also i)erislK'd. In !\rar('li. l.S(!l, Hayes, with dog-sledges, made a preliminary journey northward. His slow jn-ogress from rough iee caused him to abandon his idea of exploring the (Jreenland coast, and to de- cide on crossing Kane Masiii and following its western sliores to the north. Hayes started on his final journey with two dog- sledges, April .'Id. A third sledge, hauled by men, carried a boat which was abandoned at ("airn i'niiit. The man-sledge was sent back to tiie sliii> .\pril L'stli, from the middle of Kane JJasiii. On ^[ay lltli, Hayes with the dog-sledges reached Cape Hawks, about seventy miles from 1 lis sliij). Thirty-eight days had been occupied in making that distance, yet he claims to have reached ('ape Eieber, aliout on<' hundred and .sciynf,;/ miles beyond Hawks, .v/,;- days later. It is a thankless and ungracious task to criticise our predece^ sors in exi)loration. Thev ai(! men who have struifirled and suffered under the same trying and adverse circumstances as ourselves, and we appreciate their labors ami dangers accurately. But at times adverse criticism is necessary in the interests of truth and history. Unfortunately no experienced, nay inex- l)erienced critic, who has com])ared his narrative with his astro- nomical and meteorological recorils, can so reconcile them as to substantiate Hayes's claim to have reached, with Knorr, Cape 1 1\ i 10 TIIIIEK YKAUS OF ARCTIC SEUVICE. Lieber, May ISth, 19th, 1861. The topography of Lieber is in- correct, its hititudo two ami a half miles in error, and its longi- tude su' ih'yrees to the westward of the true position. Xo cairn exists at Lieber, and Hayes's picture of that headland bears a striking resemblance to a sketch of Cape Joseph Goode, made by Sergeant Gardiner of my party. Sir George Xares lias j)ointed out that Gape Frazer is placed ten miles too far north by Hayes, and that the latitude of other places are similarly erroneous. Hayes's ship broke out of Foulke Fiord July 10th, and the solid ice of Kane liasin bai'ring his progress northward, he crossed Smith Sound and examined its west coast from Cai)e Sabine southward to Isabella. Jt was thus his good fortune to have been the first known civilized man* to tread the new lands of Ellesinere and Grin- nell. Turning southwiu'd, he reacluMl Boston that autuum and supplenuMited his Arctic career as an explorer by good service as a surgeon during the late civil war. The next expedition to enter Smith Sound was commanded by Charles F. Hall, in the Polaris. She left Xew York June 2l>, 1871, with a complement of twenty-three souls, which was subsequently incrensed in Greenland to thirty-three. The object of the expedition was to reach the ZSorth Pole. The United States Steamship Congress was sent as far as God- havn as a supply-vessel. The Polaris left Godhavn, August 17th, and Tasiusak the 2-lth. ]\Ielville Pay was crossed in thirty-four hours, and the Poljiris was first stopped by ice off Hakluyt Island. Smith Sound was found open, and the voyage northward was delayed oidy by occasional detours west- ward to avoid the main pack. Kennedy ('hannel was navigated *B€iffln laiiiliul ill 1010 at Jones Sound, but it is uucertaiii whether on North Hi'voii, Coburg Island, or KUesnieru Land. TIIK PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND. 11 anded York which Tlie Tho (iod- LUiz;ust ricd in ly ico 1 1 the west- iiiated without tronhle, excei)t from fog. The Pohir Ocean was reached on the morning of August olst; hiiitude 82° 11' to the north- westward of liepulse llarhor. Returning southward the Polaris anchored in Thank God Harbor, where she wintered. Hall with two dog-s'edges reached Capo Brevoort in Octobei', but died of apoplexy shortly afier his return, on November 8th, Hall's death proved fatal to fur- ther advance. The winter was passed without disease or serious discomfort. Kobeson Chaimcl remained open throughout the winter. In the spring of 1872 Dr. Bessels and Mr. Bryan partly explored Peternumn's Fiord and surveyed the coast as far south as Cape Bryan. Chester and Tyson, in June, attempted boat journeys n(.)rthward, but reached only as far as Cape Sunnier ; from which point Sergeant !^[eyer, of the Signal Service, visited Repulse Harbor, reaching 82° 0', the highest hiHtude to that time attained on land. Captain lUidington decided to return home, but the Polaris was unfortunately beset at the mouth of Kennedy Channel, ab< ut latitude S0°, August 14th. The vessel drifted steadily south in the })ack despite all eflfortt to release lior, and on October 12th was in 78° 28' N., not far from Little- ton Island. Oi! October lath, in sight of Northumberland Isl- and, during a violent gale, the Polaris was nearly destroyed. While the crew were landing stores upon the iloe the vessel broke away, leaving nineteen persons on the ice. The Iloe party, among whom were Captain Tyson and Sergeant Meyer, drifted southward that winter and were picked uj) off the coast of Labrador by the sealer Tigress, .Vpril oO, 1872. For one hundred and ninety-six days, eighty-three of which were with- out the sun, tliey had lived on ice-tloes, subject to great pi'iva- tions aiul dangers. They had drifted in the meantime over fifteen hundred miles, and their esfupe from death was almost miraculous. !i 12 TIIUKK YEAUS OF AUCTIC SKItVICE. Captain IJiuliiigton, who remained on the Polaris, sncceeilcd in hoat'hing her in Life Boat Cove. Tlie party wintered there, constructing a liouse from the disabled vessel. They passed the winter in health, and much to his credit, Dr. Bessels, assisted by ^fr. IJryan, not only managed to keep np the regular scien- tific observations, but also attempted surveys northward. I'nder Mr. Chester's direction two boats were built, and on Site of Polaris House. I lUiill III l.if,' lliiiit Ciive III/ I'lilidii Crew, Wliiler. W7l-'A 1 tlune 3, 1ST''3, the party left Life J>oat Cove for Tpernivik. Fortunately they were met and rescued by the whaler Itavens- craig, -lune 23d, off (ape ^'ork. The voyage of the Tolaiis was most fruitful in geographical results. The extension of (ireeidand and Grinnell Land nortli- ward over a degree and a half of latitude, the charting of Hall J'asin and ilobcson Channel, and the discovery of the extensive THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND. 13 1 rnivik. {avcns- pliical north- iif Hall tensive frozen sea to the northward, were all substantial and most im- portant contributions to Arctic geography. The meteorological observations M'ere complete, and the tidal observations established the important fact that the Atlantic tides, flowing to the north and south around Greenland, meet near Cape Frazer. The value of these observations has been greatly impaired by the publication uf eri-oneous means, result- ing from the employment of an unreliable computer. Observa- tions made with such care and under such difficulties deserve a better fate. They should be computed and discussed anew. On May 20, 1875, the Alert and Discover}' left J\)rtsmouth, England, under command of Captain George Xares. J lis orders indicated that '* their scope and prinuiry object should be to at- tain the highest northern latitude, and, if possible, to reach the North I'ole, and from winter (piarters to explore the adjacent coast.'' The complement of the scpiadron was one liundred and twenty officers and men, supplemented by three dog-drivers ob- tained in Greenland. The A'^alorous accompanied the expedi- tion as a tender as far as Jiitenbonk. On July 22d the vessels left Upernivik, and, taking the "middle passage" across ]\[elville Bay, Cape York was reached three days later. A dei)t)t of thirty-six hundred rations with a whale-boat was left on the southeast island of the Cary group. Detained three days in Payer Harbor, a depot of two hundred and forty rations was cached for a ])ossible sledge party. ( ape 8abine was rounded August 4th, and ten days later, after con- stant l)attle with lieavy ice, the vessels reached Dobbin liay. Thirty-six hundred rations were there cached, just north of Cape Hawks, The journey northward was a constant struggle with immense floes, but by improving every chance afforded by wind or tide, the two ships Anally reached Discovery Harbor August 25th. lu 14 TIIUKE \EAUS OK ARCTIC SEUVICE, that harbor the reserve ship, Discovery, under Captain Stephen- son, R. N., wintered within two hundred yards of the sub- sequent site of Ft. Conger. The Alert pushing northward was nioo)'ed August 31st near Cape Sheridan at Floeberg Eeach, 82° 25' K, 61° 30' W., in the highest latitude which has ever been reached by any vessel. Here, on the exposed shores of the J*olar Ocean, the Alert wintci-ed. On the nortliward journey one thousand rations liad been caclied in Lincoln I'ay. Several .sledging parties were sent out by Captain iSares dur- ing the antunni to establish other depots to tlie northward. Eight men of the parties were badly frost-bitten, three of whom suffered amputation. Lieutenant Aldrieh, on September 2Tth, reached latitude S2" 48' N., and saw hind reaching to Capo Columbia, 83° 7' X. Aldrieh thus surpassed the heretofore unexcelled latitude of Parry, attained in 1827, north of Spitz- bergen. The winter was passed in health and comfort by the crews of both vessels, despite the longest Arctic night and severest prolonged cold ever experienced by man. Connnunication was had between the Alert and Discovery in early spring, but at the expense of the life of Christian Petersen, who died from severe frost-bites, notwithstanding the heroic and unseltish exertions of Lieutenants liawson and Edgerton with whom he was making the journey. On April 3d, seven sledges maimed by fifty three men and officers left the Alert for northern ex])loration. One party, un- der Commander Markham, was to push northward from Cape Joseph Jlenry over the Frozen Sea, and the second, under Lieutenant Aldrieh, was ordered to explore the north Coast of Griimell Land. Markham, equipped with two l)oats, was early obliged to ' i I \ 1 THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND. 15 Stephen- tlie sub- sist near )' W., in ly vessel, he Alert i rations ares dur- M'thward. of whom ber 2Tth, to ( "ape leretofore of Spitz- icovery ni Petersen, he heroic Edgerton abandon one, and after indescribable exertions sncceeded, by indomitable energy, in reaching on the frozen ocean May 12, 1876, the highest latitnde to that time attained. That point was 83° 20' 20" N., 03° 5' W, The sea was found to be seventy- two fathoms deep, with clay bottom ; surface temperature, 28.5" ; Ijottom temperature, 28.8°. At that time five of Markham's seventeen men wei-e on the sledges disabled by scurvy. His outward journey entailed two hundred and seventy -six miles of travel, although his farthest point was but seventy-three miles distant from the ship. On the return journey Ids men grew steadily worse, and although tlie second boat was abandoned 'May 2Tth, yet on June 7th it was evident the party would ]K'risli without help. Lieutenant Parr in this emergency made alone a forced march of twenty-four hours, and reaching the Alert, obtained assistance. One of the party died, however, and eleven others of the original seventeen were carried to the ship on relief sledges. Lieutenant Aldrich's journey along the north coast of Grin- nell Land was a most remarkable one, and in my opinion has never been duly appreciated by the general public. He reached. May ISth, Point Alert, near Cape Alfred Ernest, 82° 16' K, 85° 33' AV. ; whence, he says, " the trend was gradually southward and westward." He had surveyed two hundred and twenty miles of new coast. His party, also attacked by scurvy, would not have reached the ship without the assistance which came to them through Lieutenant May. Only Lieutenant -(Vldrich and one man out of the eight were able to haul, when relieved. During this time, Captain Stephenson of the Discovery liad parties in the field. Lieutenant Archer, ordered to explore Lady Franklin Sound, succeeded in defining its limit, and reached the head of the Fiord, wliich now bears his name. it 16 tium':!-; years of aiictic service. Lieutenant L. A. IJoiuimont was detailed to explore the north coast of (Ti-eeiiland. lie left the Discovery with two eiglit-man sledges, April (I, 187('), and lii'.st visiting the Alert, afterward crossed liobeson Chaiuicl to liepulse Harbor, llis supporting sledge nnder Dr. Cop})inger turned back May 4th. Eeaumont reached Cape Bryant j\[ay 11th, and, pushing on, succeeded with one man in reaching. May 2()th, the eastern coast of Sherard Osborn Fiord, S2^ 20' X., 5U° 45' W. Scurvy liad already attacked the i>arty, and their roturn-trip was made under most distressinj'' circumstances. To save their strength Lieu- tenant licaumont maile a depot at Capel»ryant of extra I'ations. liepulse Harbor was reached June loth, by which time the party was in desperate straits, only Lieutenant IJeanmont and Gray being able to wurk. Abandoning everything not abso- lutely indispensable, Lieutenant Beaumont had to decide whether to cross liobeson ChauTiel to the Alert, or ])roceed forty miles to Thank God Harbor, lie soon found that rotten ice and f re(pient water-pools forbade his crossing liobeson Channel, and with but little hope lie turned his face southward. Struggling on with failing strength, his party was saved by the advent of Lieutenant liawson and Dr. Cupj)inger, June 2-ith, who assisted them to Thank (Jod Harbor, which was reached July 1st. Two men, Paul and Hand, died and wei'e buried near Captain Hall. Lieutenant I'eaumont after the recuperation of his party, crossed 'Robeson Channel by boat and sledge with great difficulty, reaching Cape Baird August 12th. In the meantime, Captain Xares had decided in July to re- turn to England, mainly on accomit of scurvy, of which thirty- six cases had occurred on the Alert alone. In addition to the break-down of his sledge-parties from this disease, he was con- vinced of the impracticability of successful luivigation in the Polar Sea, and, from the lack of land to the northward, eipially THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND. 17 Ivoiit l>f tit-sisted Two m Hall. crossed fficiiltv, (l(iiil)tfnl of sledge-journeys over the frozen sea toward the Pole. The Alert left Floeberg lieach July ."l, 1S7<), and through dar- ing seamanship succeeded in retracing her course down Jiobeson Channel. Both ships rounded Cape IJebor August 20th, and ten days later were in Dobbin IJay. In their passage southward the sledging depots at Joe Island, Capes Collinsou and Sabine, as well as the larger depots at Lincoln Jjay and S.E. Cary Island were left untouched. A large portion of the Cape Hawks depot was re-end)arked during an enforced delay. The voyage from Kennedy Channel southward was difficult, tedious, and dangerous, but finally on September 9th both vessels reached the open sea, off Eache Island, and recrossed the Arctic circle October 4th. This expedition, costing three-quarters of a million, com- manded by an officer of Arctic experience, — one of the finest seamen in her Majesty's service,— composed of picked officers and men from the English Xavy, fitted out under the advice of Arctic veterans, thoroughly and efficiently equipped, withstood the experiences and privations incident to Arctic life and ex- ploitations but a single year. They had, however, explored Archer's Fiord, outlined the eiiHre northern coast of Grinnell Land, added nearly a hundred miles to the Greeidand coast, j)ushed an English vessel into the highest known latitiide, and planted the Tnion Jack both on land and sea nearer the TJe than ever before. They brought back an elaborate set of tidal, magnetic, and meteorological ob- servations, which are valuable contributions to the physical sciences. They charted Greenland and Grinnell Land with re- markable exactitude, and depicted the circumstances of their sufferings and experiences in narratives which are notable both for their modesty and accuracy. I r J 18 TIinKE YEAR8 OF AHCTIC SKIIVICK. My own experiences regarding Arctic service sonicwliat le- seniblo those of I'ayer. lie relates: "In the year l!SGS, wliile employed on the survey of the Orteler Alps, a news- paper with an acconnt of Koldewey's first expedition one day found its way into my tent on- the mountainside. In the even- ing I held forth on tlie Korth Pole to the herdsmen and Jligers of my party as we sat around the fire, no one filled with more astonishment than myself, that there should ho men endued witli such capacity to endure cold and darkness. No presenti- ment had I then that the very next year I should myself liave joined an expedition to the North Pole ; and as little could Ilaller, one of my Jihjcrs at that time, foresee that he would accompany me on my third expedition." Surprised, as all the world, at their return, I read one day in London that the Arctic squadron had reached the Irish coast, and with all England I was absorbed in the story they had to tell. It had then for me a deep, altliough impersonal, interest, but never in my wildest fancies did I picture myself as one of the next expedition which should sail northward be- tween the "Pillars of Hercules" into the "Unknown Kegions." 1 .V;. !|; n '■■ \ .\ vi hat rc- r 1^08, •x news- one day lie cven- [1 JiUjcm til niore L cnducil presenti- ^elf liavo tie could ic would one day the Irish story they npersonal, myself as ward be- vegions." '■^^^ :5a<esi't tlio first day aftor leaving ^«ova Zeiid>la in 70' 22' X., the vessel drifted the ensuing year over three degrees northward to the southern >aore of a new land. This new Arctie domain, l''ranz .loset' 1-and. was partly cx})lored by Lieutenant .Iiilius Payer and found to extend at least from 80° to 83° X. and ironi T.o" to (>:) W. Despairing of release from the pack, ^Veyprecht, after a sec- ond winter's iniprisoiiniciit, al)an(loned tlic 'iY'getthoff, ^lay 20, 1S71, and conducted his i)artv safelv bv sledge and boat to the M'est coast of Xova Zendila, where lie fell in with liussian fish- ing-vessels. rndisniayed In' his hardships, ])ut profiting by his experi- ences, ^Veyprecht, at the meeting of the (lerman Scientific and ^Medical Association, at (iratz, in Septendjcr, IST;"), presented a plea for systematic polar exploration and research, lie pro- jioscd that scientific investigations, heretofore subordinated to geographical discovery, be now made the primary object. Insisting on the great importance of Arctic exploration to a bettor knowledge of the laws of nature, he pointed out that mimite topography was com])aratively unimportant, and that geographical discoveries were of marked value only when they extended the fields for scientific iixpiiry. Observation stations, he said, should be chosen, i)articularly with reference to the sub- ject to be investigated, and the series of observations sliould bo continuous and unbroken. A Commission, comprising some of (Jermany's most eminent scientific men, was appointed by Prince liismarck to consider the (juestion. The Commission strongly commended the plan to the Bundesrath and ti) all interested nations. It expressed its convictions as to the great value of the work, and its opinion ''^ ^F INTKKNATIONAI- CIUCUMPOLAU STATIONS. 31 Coiint rcctioii if 'Sox a .:ir ovm" \v liind. ,8t from er a pcc- :M;iy iit», at t(» the siuii iish- s cxperi- iititic ami cseiitctl a lie pro- inated to JL't. ;\tion to a (i\it, that iiid that uMi ihoy stations, the siih- louhl V)e 5t oiniuent u consider the jdan expressed its opinion that the united action of several countries w-.xa essential to a complete solution of the i)rohlems involved. In May, 1^77, Count Wiic/.ek ami Weyi)rcciit drew up a plan for the work, hut the Turko Ilussian war prevented the meeting' of the International Afeteorological Congress to Mdiich it was to he presented. The Congress linally met at Rome, April 22, 1S7!). The Conference was of the " opinion that these ohservations will he of the highest importance in develo})ing meteorology and in extending our knowledge of terrestrial magnetism." It recommended general ])articipatioii, and called an International polar (\)nference, M'hich met at ILunhnrg, Octoher J, 1S79. Ei^rht countries sejit delcirates and three sent connnunications favoring the project. Dr. Xeumayer was elected President. Twelve stations (four in the Antarctic regions) were agreed on, one of which was t(j he in the Archipelago of North America. Pules for oldigatory and oiitional ohservations were fonnulated. An agreement was made that no nation should ho hound until eight stations should he guaranteed. The second Conference met at Pcrne, August 7, 18S0, and I'rofessor Wild was elected President, vice Keumayer resigned. Nine nations Austria, Hungary, Denmark, France, (Jermany, Italy, Xetherlands, Norway, Ilussia, and Sweden, sent delegates. The Conference adhered to its previous decision regarding the general principles and details of tlie plan. Sufficient progress luid heen made to justify the expectation of enough mxtions participating to ultimately make the sclicme successful. Its execution, however, was deferred until 1882-83. In the meantime. Captain Ilowgate, United States Army, had especially interested himself in Arctic matters, and in 1877 sent to Cumherland Gulf the schooner Florence with the view of collecting dogs, skih clothing, etc., for a projected colony at 32 TIIKKK YKAIW OF AIKniO RKUVICK. Lady Franklin Uay. Falling in liis direct plan for a jxilar coluiiy, (/Hptain Ilowgatt; yiiccoeded in having I/idy Franklin Hay designated an the point in the Archipelago ol" North Amer- ica which was to bo occnpied l>y the United Stat nal !Ser- vice as a polar station. The importance of Lady Fraidilin l»ay as a station was nmleniahle, as comparable observations in meteorology and magnetism wonld thus he obtained. Captain Ilowgate's indefatigable exertions linally resnlted iti the Act of Congress, approved ^lay 1, 1880, which authorized the establishment of a temporary station at Lady i-'raidvlin l>ay for scientific observation, etc., and provided for the accej)tance and fitting out for such work of the steamship (iulnare, which he liad purchased. Lieutenants CJrecly, Doanc, and i^owe, I'nited ''■tates Army, were detailed f(»r duty in this service, and J)i hive Favy employed as surgeon. The expedition was to ^ out the ])rogrannne outlined by the J Limburg Folar Conference. The refusal of the Xavy Department to accejjt the CJnlnare for the work caused Lieutenant Greely to decline the connnand of tlio expedition, but the otliers proceeded to Disco, wlience the (iulnare returned disabled leaving Dr. I'avy in (ireenland. Dr. Wild, I'resident of the International J'olar Commission, in Sej)tembc;', 1880, informed the Chief Signal Officer that two stations were yet lacking— Foint liarrow and "some point in the Archipelago of North America."' The Sundry Civil ]>ill of IVrarch 3, 1881, api)ropriated $25,000 for the station at Lady Fi'anklin Bay, already authorized by C^ongress. General W, T>. Jlazeu had in the meantime become Chief Signal OtRcer, and, impressed with the scientific importance of the work and the propriety of the United States doing ii ; part, not only took a personal and active interest in the international station of J^ady .1 wmm :i |)olrtr Knuikliii li Anior- luvl Sei'- iou ^vivs Dgy a 11.1 owguto's Vmgrcss, lislimeiit scientitii; ,cl iittiniii; . lio liiul 38 Army, ivci I'avy out tlu! ce. Tlu; •0 for the ul of the once the liind. ninission, • that two ponit ill di r.iii or I at Lady ml W. Tk Rcer, aiitl, k and the nly took a II of I.ady 1 ' f ■"▼■i '". ~\.e — -i--a3^ L — iJi, TC "«>. i S 1 ' f ■i i Arctic Regions, Showinc; I ocation of Circumpolar Station. 1881-83. i H! INTEKXATIONAL CI UCUM POLAR STATIONS. 23 Franklin Bay, but also established independently the second station, in a nuich lower latitude, at Point liarrow. Eventually fourteen stations were established as follows : Government. Station. Anstrin— Iliingary Di'ninnrk Finland Franco Cloiniiuiy Corniniiy Circnt Uritniii and Caiiaila H(illiinil Ntirway RusHia Unssin Latitude. Swi'don United States United StaU'S .Ian May.n, 70°r>i»'N. Uodtlinali, BI'lTX. Sodanltyln, (17° 21' N. J Ornntrt I'iOi 1 CniH! Hmri, 55°31'S. j ICinguwa Fiord, I Cundjerlnnil Sound, 06° 36' N. j Uoyal Itay, I S. Georyiun Islnnda, S^i' 31' S. Ft. Rap, »i8»39'N. I)i<-l° 28' N. I'oiiit liarniw, 71°1S'N. Lady Franklin Bay. «1° 44' N. Longitude. Chief. 8° 28' W. Lieut. Eniil von WohlKemiUli. 51° -10' W. Asrtt. A. F. \V. Paulsen 2U° at/ E. Asst. E. BiuBO. I 70" 21' W. Lieut. Courcellc-Seueuil. 67° 14' W. Dr. \V. Giese. 36" 5' W. Dr. C. Schrader. 115° 44' W. Caiit. If. r. Dawson, B.A. 81° E. Dr. M. Snellen. 2;^° E. Asht. A. S. Steeu. 124° 41)' E. Xieut. Jiir(,'ens. fi.S" E. ILient. Andrejew. l."!" 45' E. Candidati' N. I'lkliolm. ISii" 24' W. ;Liuut. I'. II. Ray, 8th Inf. 64» 46' W. Lieut. A. W. Greeiy, 5th Cav. ♦ Estimated. To these stations should bo added the Danish exploring steamer Dijniphiia, Lieutenant A. P. Ilovgaard, which, beset by the pack, wintered in the Kara Sea about 71° N., 64° E. Many great observiitorios in lower latitudes co-operated with the I'olar stations, and other auxiliary stations were added, which raised tlie number of stations observing in concert to over forty. Among the auxiliary stations may be mentioned Pola, ]\[iinich, Utrecht, ^NFoncalieri, Velletri, Peking, Tillis, Pavlosk (St. Petersburg), Zi-ka-AVoi (Shanghai), Taskend, Xer- tschinsk, Moscow, Coimbra, Los .Viigeles, Stonyhurst, Naples, Itio Janeii'o, Pombay, and Ppsala. Ju the est.abiishment and relief of these stations some seven hundred men incurred dangers incident to all Arctic service, but such has been the improvement in Arctic ecpiipment that pave in the case of the Lady Franklin Pay expedition no man ])erished. rrrr. V ■5H55re?!3S!-5! wp mtw^ HP 24 TllUEE YEAIIS OF AUCTIC SERVICl':. I . 1 1 -n The scientific work of each expedition was to a greater or lesser extent successful. AVeyprecht died, but the work he planned was carried on and is iinished. Progress in the devel- opment of physical sciences and the discovery of new laws largely proceeds from tentative efforts. The scientitic work of these stations must be justly measured by the filial result. Geod- esy, meteorology, and magnetism may, or may not, profit as fully as sanguine advocates anticijiated. Be that as it may the work of the International Polar (commission will live in history as a great one, if only as an epoch in modern civilization marked by the union of eleven great nations in planning and executing for strictly scientific purposes so extensive and dangerous a work. ill Greenland Coast. [View near fioitfiavn.\ CllArTEIl III. gkp:enland. A N account of explorations iu Smith Sound would be ineoin- plete without a brief descriptitm ot" (ireenland. ^^^gue and indeiinite ideas rcgardinj^ that country prevail, even among intelligent classes, and many know it only as depicted in Ileber's celebrated hynm. The materials of this account have been drawn partly from the standard works of Crantz and llink, although other author- ities have been freely consulted. The contour of Greenland is that of an irregular lozenge, over fourteen hundred miles long and some nine hundred miles wide. Its greatest width closely coincides with the 7Sth parallel, from Cape Bismarck, of Koldewey, westward to Cape Alex- ander. Cape Farewell at its southern extremity, seven degrees south of the Arctic circle, is nearly on the same meridian as Cape Washington, six degrees south of the Pole. t;^ "-*-'!. ^m f^m^ .^-Lfi.J, ,\JLJWI imm ^wi nnm 26 TIIKEE YEARS OE ARCTIC SERVICE. ! i 1 i , 1 I ..'i fxreenlaml might well be called tlie glacial continent, as fully three-fourths of its known ai'ca are covered by an eternal ice- cap, known as the inland ice. Much discussion has been had as to the real extent of this ice and the exact conditions of the interior of Greeidand. Re- peated attempts have been made to penetrate its frozen waste, none of which wei'o \o,vy successful until 1883. Keilson in 183U reached a point eighty miles from llolstenborg. l>aroiv Tsordenskiold, the most famous Arctic explorer of the age, in 1870, reached a point about twenty-two hundred feet above the sea, about 08° 22' JS'., 49° W. " The iidand ice continued to rise toward the interior," he says, " so that the horizon to tho east, north, and south was terminated by an ice-border almost as smooth as that of the ocean."' In 1883 Xordenskiold hinu self succeeded in reaching a point eighty miles from the edge of the ice, and his Lapps pushed on one hundred and thirty miles l)eyond, their farthest being about 69° 30' N., 40° AV. The ice, then over six thousand feet above the sea, still arose gradually toward the east, but no peaks were visible. The con- tinent liiid been crossed more than half way to the east coast vithout any change in the ice-cap being noted, or its sunnnit attained. The inland ice is of an unknown thickness, but Dr. Brown says from one thousand to three thousand feet is not uncommon. The east coast swept by the Spitzbergen ice-stream is l)ut lit- tle known, despite the fact that for over two centuries the sea that washes its shores was annually visited by adventurous whalers.* Steadily and continually an arctic current sets this * Sooresby points out that Ilollaiul in ono hundred and seven years fitted out over I'mirtcen tlioiisand sliips for tlie (ireeiilnnd wliale flsIiericR, only four per centum of wliieli were lost, and took frou. these seas oil and bono to the value of lifty-five luilliou dollars. The aame nation in sixty years draw from 'Vi I GREENLAND. 27 Imtlit- tlie st'ii sL-ts this ice-stream southward from the Polar Sea into the Xorth Athiii- tic. In winter it is a solid pack covering the sea from Spitz- bergen and Iceland to the Greenland coast. In summer, how- ever, southerly winds, higii temperatures, and the warm curro!it to the north (discovered by Xordensiciold's expedition of ISHo, to exist fifty miles off shore), loosens and disintegrates the pack, leaving along the shore an ice-belt varying from twenty to a hundred miles in width. From the 70th parallel successive explorers have indeed outlined the coast as far northward as Cape Bismarck, latitude 77 , but to the southward it is :i blank for over three hundred miles, until from Capo Dan we sight Graah's Islands, reached from the south by that energetic Dane on his fruitless search for the lost colonies. This land is freer from the iidand ice than tlio western coast, and its shores less frequently broken by intersecting inlets, It ])resents several remarkable liords, one of which, Jvaisor Franz Josef, vividly described by Payer, is amoiig the grandest and most beautiful in the world. To the westward of this fiord Petermann's Peak, perhaps the only true mountain of Green- land, laises its head some eleven thousand feet toward the heavens. Sixty years ago a few scattered Eskimo lived near the 75th parallel, but in 1870 Dr. Pansch found the huts desolate, their occupants vanished. Doubtless they had withdrawn toward Cape Farewell, near which, in 1S(!1, Mr. Rosing reported the east coast natives as numbering from eight hundred to a thou- saiul. Kordenskiold who succeeded, August, 1883, in landing on that tlie waters of Davis Strait wealth amountiui,' to nearly tliirt-en million dolliirs. Tliese inconiiiletc ligurcs may convey to tlie reader some faint idea of the solid contributions of the Arctic seas to the wealth of the world. S3: ,imM. 'm !■ I 1 I 28 TIIIiEK VKAUS OK AKCTIO SKKVICK. coast, discovered recent traces of Eskiiiuj in Kiiii:; Oscar Harbor, just nortli of Cape Dan, aliout (id' X., a fact wliicli sliows tliat occasional parties yet frequent that vicinity, prolxibly in search of game. Danisli (irci'iihmd covers tiie westiTii coast from ("ajie Fare- well nearly a thousand miles northward. Its iu)rthern Inspector- ate is divided into seven, and the southern into five districts. Each portion is uovcriu'd liy a rnyal inspector as tlm representa- tive of the King of Demnark. lie has, to a certain extent, su- pervi.-ion of the officials of the lioyal Trade, and acts in a magisterial capacity whenever necessary. The Uoyal Trade monopoly was originally a private corpora- tion, but was, in 1T74, ac(pured by the Danish (Tovernment, of which it forms a special biweau known as the Uoyal (Jreenland lH)ard of Trade. The chief stations, or " colonies," arc generally in charge of an administrator, a chief trader, who is frequently called ( iovernor by the whalers. The subordinate clerks, known as assistants or volimteers accordhig to their grades, are placed in charge of snniller stations. In the southern inspectorate the four most important districts, contaiiutig over halt' the population of Greenland, are without the Arcti(! circle. In these districts are several Moravian mis- sions, established a centinw and a half ago. They were for a time as important as the nussions in our own State (»f I'emi- sylvaiua, which then, strange as it may seem, constituted, with (Jreenland, a diocese, which \vas visited by the same bishop. The face of the earth has changed, and now no Moravian missionarv wends his wav to Peimsvlvania, bearing to its suffer- ing proselytes sympathy and charity from the natives of (Jreen- land. By a cm-ious chance, however, commerce keeps up the coimection, and the cryolite of Jvigtut linds its way through Philadelphia to the industries of the world. 1 1 :xrbor, jwti that u suart'U po J'"aro- uspector- dUtricts. preseiita- >ctciit. s\i- acts in a ; corpora- [luieiit, oi ireenlaiul generally 'rocpiently <^, known ire placed t district !i, ; without ,ivian niis- ere for a oi' I'enn- iti'd. with ishop. Moravian its suffer- of (irecn- )s lip the y through :n'|ii|iliiMi:ii':i'iiiri>'i;ii'i!iliiillii i!J]i|i,i,>l|i!J,l!|ij||||!; I t ^m^t^mmmfmmif^gf^Sji VI P P [M ■ fj ■ Mi i\\liil ■?Vs GREENLAND. 29 Tlio cryolite deposit .it Iviiitnt was discovered by (iiesecku in JS()(). A license to work it was granted in ISoT, and in eit,diteen years, says Rink, eiglity-foiu- thonsand tons were mined, for which Denmark received nearly S530' >,000 royalty. Whalel)one, oil, leathers, eider-down, skins of the seal, fox, hear, and reindeer, form the greater balance of the exports, ag- gregating annually, foi- all Greenland, ^33,000 in value. The coast line free fi'oni inland ice in this inspectorate aver- ages ])crhaps sixty miles in width. Crowberries, bog, and red whortleberries are found in favorable localities. Copses of birches, alders, and willows prevail, the trees attaining occasion- ally a height of ten or twelve feet. The chief colony, (Jodthaab, (i'J' 1 1' X., was one of the Inter- national C'ircumpolar Stations. Its population, including the adjacent mission, is nearly three hundred. It is the residence of the lloyal Inspector of Southern (ii'ceidand; has a bi'ick church, a seminary, and the usual houses for the Danish oilicials. New Ilerridiut and Lichtenfols, the two Moravian com- nunuties, are represented by liink as contrasting unfavorably Avith (iodthaab. Of their population he says they " numbered TT;5 in is.").-), TU in ISC.d, and ~u\s in l,sT2. This striking de- crease is not owing to any accidental cau.se, but merely to a prevailing mortality arising from the misei'able condition t)f the natives belonging to these communities as regards their habi- tation.s, clothing, and whole mode of life." liiidc's iigm-es nuist be accepted, but his opinions can scarcely be considered con- clusive reirarding these missions oC a reliiiious faith differinir from that of the Danish officials. It is a matter of interest that the estimated population of the ancient N'orse .settlements — ten thousand souls — coincides closely with the population as given by Crantz a century « ^ ■■IB mm ■M Tiii:i:i<: yeaus of aiu tic skiivice. Y and a halt" ago, ami as (Ictcrinined liy tlin Daiiisli coiisiia uf l:ito years. Niiiiierous traces of tlie Noisoiiuiii are yet visible in tiiis iii- spet'torato in the shaj)e of interesting ruins, eight of which are churches, the most remarkable being the Kakortok Church near •f ulianchaab. The northern inspectorate is better known from the annual visits of whalers to (ioclhavn and I'pernivik. At the former station, called Licvely by the Knglish whalers, tlie Danish in- spector resides. An excellent lanil-locked harbor insures se- curity to visiting ships. 'i'lie inlaiul ice, which in the southern part of this inspectorate retreats nearly a hundred miles from the outer shores, almost reaches the sea-coast in the extreme north, and delH)uches into ice fiords at .hdcobshavn and Tpernivik. These remarkable Hords yearly send out hundreds of icebergs, many of winch find their way into the Atlantic. As uuglit be supjwsed the Eskimo live pi'incipally by hunt- ing and fishing. Seals, white whales, birds, und lish alVoi'd seven-eighths of their subsistence, the balance being bread, pease, and barley from the Trade. The natives learn quickly the rudiments of a haiulicraft, and iiuiny find employment in government service. As neither industry nor commerce exists in Cxreenland, tlio only outlet for energy and al)ility, apart from hunting and fishing, is in the Royal Trade. About ten per centum gain a livelihood in gov- ermiient service, fifteen by fishing, and seventy-five by seal- hunting. The seal, when caught, affords idubberand skin, wliich is sold to the Trade for the catchers' profit ; but the flesh or meat is by force of ]Miblic opinion almost common property from the obligation of the hunters to shai-e with their neighbors. The i\ (JUICKNI.AXI). ;n 1S\19 (»f this iii- lich !iru rch near .! luimial ; former misli in- gures se- pcetorato js, almost clics into imarlvublo ihich iind l»y hmit- •h ai'tord ;f l)reail, ■rai't, and ,s neitlier •utlet foi- ls in the (id in gov- o by seal- lirh is sold meat is by from the hors. The niojicy received for skin and l)lubber goes for coffee, bread, cotton goods, sugar, and tobacco in tlie order named. Intoxi- cating drinks are not sold. AUhongh nnicli relishing spirituous liquors the (Jreeidanders are not given to intoxication, One-lifth the an.ount paid for articles sold to the Tiade is held as a Poor Fund, whicii is distributed by a council com- ])osed of the missionary, a trade ollicial, and certain elected representatives, only providers being eligible to the juisition. This council determines to whom an divided among hunters and lishers who have imt rerpiired assistance the previous season. The naturally ann'able qualities of the Kskiiuo have been fostered by the (Christianizing inlluences of the Danish pastors and the ^Moravian missionaries. Religious and instructive books liave been printed in Eskimo text, and a largo portion tif the natives read, although but few of them can write. In general they are devout, honest, truthful. Their vices are negative. A gentle folk, violence and theft are rarely known among them, and in twelve years but one nuirder, and that in passion. The municipal council investigate and punish offences, which are generally trivial, but they have no means of enforcing punishment, which is usually light, such as denial of trade privileges, which entails aVtstention from bread and coffee. Occasionally temporary expulsion from the settlemen't is de- creed. Marriages, christenings, and burials conform to Christian usages. Dancing and singing festivals are favorite anuisc- inents, and coffee parties are fashionable for birthdays and other anniversaries. Two-thirds of the houses are miserable, partly underground 1 t 1 i; 1 1 i\ i i: '1 1: •A2 Tiii:i:i; ykaks oi aimviio skiivick. hovels, witli IK) iia-aiiB oi" lit-atiii^ or cuukiiig except the Eskiino Men and women are aliUo clothed with jacket mid troiiseis. The jacket is a hooded jumper with opeiiiti<^s only for fact and hamls. The hood is em,"''j;ed when necessary so as to aduiit of Arctic Bellas. nil infant Iiciiii;' carried inside against the woiiKin's hack The women's trousers are vei'V narrow and exteu'' i Idps to knees, so that a l>it of white ch'' een at tiie waist, and a portion of the ii ilii_ kiii, but i:ow the jumjter is \ w OUKKN'LAXn. 83 Eskiiiio tronsorn. fact and adiiiit <»t" The lii|)ri t'li at knee, ilicd far 'he outer uinper is frcciuently of cotton cloth. The women's hoots, of variegated white, red, and j)iiri)le leather, are elahonitely ornamented with fancy seams. Ijoots, trousern, and jiuniu.'rrt are tiometinies trimmed with fancy fur. Th(! K-skimo hoot is of smooth, well-tanned sealskin, which resists occasional innnersion in water. The soles projecting at lacl and toe are skilfully curved up and nnited to the uppers, in such a nninner tliat no seam is fotmd on a hearing surface. The women gather their hair in tufts on the very top of the head, the central tuft rising an inch or two ahove the outer circlet. The size of the tuft is a nuitter of pride, and in tying the hair up gay rihhons arc niiich in vogue, which hy their ciilor of red, yellow, or green hetoken the woman's condition as maid, wife, or widow. Althougli liard working and industrious on occasion, yet there is an almost universal spirit of improvidence. Tho raternal care of the Danish (iovernment is the onlv thina: which stands hetween the Eskimo and ultimate extinction. The Iloyal Trade indeed forhids free traffic, and purchases the result of the hunt at a nominal price, hut when bad seasons come and starvation impends, the natives are fed at its expense. The charity of the officials, however, is not always effective in warding off starvation. A famine in 185G-57, in Southern Greenland, caused hy the failure of the seal catch, resnlted in the death of a hundred and forty i)ersons, owing to the impracticability of communicating with the supply stations. The mean annual temperature of Soiithern Greenland (33°) is about the same as that of the lied liiver Valley in Dakota, but correspondingly low temperatures are not known, as —50° has never been noted at any Greeidand settlement. The climate resembles much that of Northern Norway. 34 TIIUEE YEARS OF AKCTIC SEUVICE. Tlio mean teinpeniturc at the Jiortlieni stations ra])idly de- creases after crossing tlio Arctic circle, and at I'pornivik is 13° for the rear and — lU.3' for Febrjiarv. Tlie coldest month ever noted was — 2().G° at Upcrnivik, Jannary, iST-t. Tlie highest single temperature recorded ^vas (58° and the lowest — 47°. At LTpernivik the extremes in the past ten years have l)oen +59.':" and -39.6°. Upertiivik. I The must northerly civiiUed settlement in the u-kole n-avld. 1 Sonic further statistics relating to (Jrccnland will he found in the appendices. It is not generally known that two ice-streams exist in J)avis Strait, with a belt of open water 1)etwccn the greater part of the year. The one on the American side carries the Baffin liuy ice steadily southward. That on the (ireenland side is a narrow offshoot of the Spitzbergen ice-stream, which, I'ounding * r!i])idly de- pern ivik is dest moiitli 1ST4. The the lowest years liave GKEKNLAND. 36 Cajic Farewell from the east coast, extends northward to the neighhorhood of (iodthaah. I'orts to the southward of that place are i-cached oidy .hy i)assing to the northward of this stream. It is only after the Arctic circle is crossed that the open sea of Davis Strait is liable to be frozen over, and even then it is not a solid covering, but rather a cemented drifting pack which moves steadily soutlnvard, as sliown by the drift of the Advance, the Fox, ami the Polaris P'li-ty. Greenland, from Cape York northward, is treated of in other portions ot this M'ork, but to that point from the last Danish settlement, latitude T.T 24', extends three hundred miles of un- known coast, probably covered by the inland ice to its very shore. This desolate region has, as far as we know, never been trodden by the for.t of man, and its very outlines will doubtless remain unknown un.il among the Danes another adventurous (Jraah shall rise up, to search out and tell us the mysteries of that vacant land. be found in ;ist in Davis ater part of ; the BatTin md side is a •b, rounduig ':,'! ', English Cairn, S. E. Gary Island, I'-'/S. I lhii)in Uinvova'eil Una iahiiul, lljlij. 1 CILAI'TER IV. ORGANIZATION AND EtiUH'^ENT. fTIIlE organization and equipment of the Lady Franklin Hay Expedition were accomplished under great disadvantages, arising not only from inadecpiate moans, but from the avowed hostility to the work of the Cabinet chief, imder whose charge it necessarily was. Ko friendly board of Arctic experts, with lavish fimds at its command, assisted by its counsel and advice, l)nt the preparation in this case devolved entirely on the com- manding officer of the expedition. The detailed recpiisitions for food, clothing, and other supplies were prepared in seventy- two hours, and imder stress of knowledge that the question of sending the expedition depended very largely on the character and quantity of supplies asked for. Although assigned to com- «IP OKCrAXIZATIOX AXD KQUIPMENT, 37 inaiitl ^larc'li lltli, tlio whole nuittcr was later held in .iheyance by Ml'. Lincoln, then Secretary of AVar, and until April 1st, despite the personal efforts of Senator Conger and the persist- ent labors of General llazen, it was undecided if the expedition should go. Tiie formal approval (General Order i}."), War De- partment) was not issued until April 12th, barely two months ])rior to the departure of the main party. The detailed orders as to the organizatioTi and duties of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition appear elsewhere. The plan contemplated the transportation of the expedition in a chartered vessel from St. John's, Newfoundland, to Lady Franklin l'>ay, where the party was to establish their quarters, the ship returning. A steamer was lo visit the station annually with supplies and recruits. Several designated vessels were care- fully inspected u..der directions from the Secretary of the Xavy, and from those reported to be fit for the service the steamer Proteus was selected. She was a new (7 years old) barkentine- rigged steamer of oak, ^vith two compound engines ; 110 horse- power ; Mi" tons register; hail an iron arni(d prow, and was sheathed with ironwood from aljove the water-line to below the turn of the bilge. She had been built for the sealing busi- ness luulcr personal supervision of her ownci's, and conformed in all respects to the most ajiproved methods of construction for iise in heavy Arctic ice. Her screw was self-lifting, she had spare rudder and propeller, and was in every respect suitable for the projected work. Her mastei", Richard J*ike, had for many years been engaged in the dangerous seal-fishery of the Labrador ice, and was one of the most experienced captains and ice-navi- gators of Newfoundland. His crew were selected men from the hardy fishermen of that island. The charter of this vessel con- suuhhI over three-fourths of the appropriation, leaving less than six thousand dollars for the special outfit of the party. i ! , I I 38 TIHIEE YEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE. I July, This small sum was ecoiioiTiically spent for our supply of coal, scientific instrnnierts, boats, dogs, dog-food, special woollen and fur clothing, pemiuican, liini'-juico, spirits, special articles of diet, natural history supplies, table and household c(pii])age, etc. Xothiug was purchased except after most careful con- sideration as to its necessity and cost. In consequence many very desirable articles were omitted, and in "11 cases the su]>]ily reduced to a miinnunn. The War Department declined to facilitate or make special the re(piisition for the appropriation, whi''h was not available, in any event, until duly 1st. In conse- (pience, rather than abandon the undertaking, it became neces- sary at the last moment to guarantee many bills for special arti- cles purchased. Fi>r friendly sei'vices in this as in other impor- tant rcopects, both the expedition and niysell" weretmder special obligations to ]\lajor Charles Appleby, of New York. The various bureaus of the War Department furnished ex- cellent arms and aiuiuunitioii, clothing, and camp e(piipage (ai'iiiy j^attern only), hospital stores, and the usual iield supply of medicines. Ample subbistence stores, of superior quality, were furiushed on requisition for sale to ofFicers and men. Lieutenant Kislingbury and two men left New York, ]\Iay 31st, to supervise the stowing of cargo. On dime IJ-th the maiii party, under command of Lieutenant James 13. Lockwood, sailol from Baltimore for St. John's on the steamer Xova Scotian. Professor Daniel 0. (rilman, J 'resident of Join s IIo])kin3 Fniversitv, took a decided interest in this scientific work of in- tcrnational importance. His desire to evidence this in some ])ublic mnmier, in conjunction with other j)rominent Balti- n '.vans, wi thoroughly appreciated. The early hour of sail- i;"r ii'id the innited time the party coidd remain in Baltimore, were cogent reasons why his kindly thought assumed no tangi- ble form. 1881.] ORGANIZATION AND EQUIPMENT. 30 I liad lioped to snil from St. John's, XowfomuUniul, July 1?', ])iit tlie coiulition of affairs was such on my arrival at tliat point, on Juno 27th, as to render it impossil^le. Certain essential sup- plies had not arrived, and the stores on board the Proteus were in iMulless confusion. The Secretary of the Navy had kindly ruiiiislied a small steam-launch, hut its holler proved entirely unsuitable for salt-water, and had to be replaced at St. John's. Such results necessarily llowed from a policy which rendered it obligatory to perfect in two months and a half the outlitting of; a party destined for over two years' sej)aration from the rest of the world. Though succeeding experiences jiroved that no article really essential to health or success was wanting, yet other results might have easily followed, and cei'tain deliciences did occur which, in longer time, could have been remedied to our later plcasm-e and comfort. As to the members of the expedition, it is hardly necessary to remark that all were highly reconnni'iiilcd, passed a strict medi- cal examination, and wei'o volunteers. Lieutenant Kislingbury, ill a service ol" over llfteen years, had a fine reputation for field duty. Lieutenant J.oc^kwood had served eight years, almost always on the frontier, and was highly reconmiended as an oflicer of sterling merit and varied at'ainments. Edward Israel and freorge W. 'tice, in order to accompany the expedition, cheerfully accepted service as eidisted men. The f(.rnier, a graduate of Ann Arbo • T'niversity, went in his chosen ])rofession as astronomer, while ilie latter, a professional ])hoto- grapher, hoped to add to his n^putation in that art by service with the expedition. Sergeants Jewell and Kalston had served long and faithfully as meteorological observers; while Ciardiner, tiiough of younger service, was most jiroinising. J^ong and hazardous duty on the Western frontier had inured the greater part of the men to dangers, hardships, and exposure, and de- 1 I 40 TIIRKE YEAirS OF ARCTIC SEIIVICE. [July, 1881. veloped in thorn that (jiiality uf lielpfuhiess so essential in Arctic service. On July 4th, with all on hoard, the rroteus dropped to anchor off (Queen's wliarf, awaiting the final supplies. They came on the 7th, and at Tioon of that day we passed the majestic cliffs which form the narrows of St. Jolni's, and turned our prow toward Greeidand with fine weather, blue sky, and favor- ing wind. There was a touch of sadness mingled with our exultation; for, while we sped on to the icy north, not only were loving hearts left behind us in the sinmy south, but our great nation with bated breath was watching over its dying chief. Hi tmmmmm i i - ? 'J f 'I Ij i ^% 1 ': 'f\W!r^ i I ^ i T? I CHAPTER V. THE VOYAP.E TO UJ'EKNIVIK. July, 1881. "OONAVISTA with its pliiiiiiii? I'nl't '^^'^^ passed tlie evening "^ of the 7th, from whicli point wo lioped — and not in vain — to he rcporto(h A few scattei'od icehoi'gs were seen he- tween Funk Lshmd and the straits of l>elle Isle, the liiiijiering vcinnants of the enormous ice-lields which cover the ^'ewfound- huid waters during the spring months. Xorthwesterly gales and thick weather delayed us, but on the I3th we were in Davis Strait off Frederickshaab, where the iirst ice was encountered. The pack was a loose one and con- sisted of two streams of ice from ten to thirty miles wide, which in IK) way impeded the ship's progress. These Hoes were off- shoots of the great Spitsbergen ice-stream which, drifting down the coast of East (Greenland, are set along the west shore by the ])revailing northerly current. The greater part of the ice ranged from three to five feet above the water, and almost with- out exception each piece was deeply grooved at the water's edge, evidently by the action of the waves. Above and below the surface of the sea projected long tongue-like edges. The novel and fascinating scene engaged the attention of all. The advancing and receding waves along the tongues of ice continually changed their aspect, and gave forth colors Avhich resolved themselves into indescribable hues of great beauty. The most delicate tints of blue mingled quickly and indistin- I'] i| r! I "' m '1 j 1 ! 1 1 1 '1 . 1 5 43 TIIKKK Y1;AK8 OK AKOTK! 8P:ilVI('K. [July, guisliably into those of rare light grcoii, to Ik; siiceocded hitor as the water receded from the tloe's side, by shades tif l)liiish white. Ot'casioiial Hoes were twelve or tiftceti feet high and in these at times the level surfaces gave way f<> iiiiinaclcs {>r Iniimnoeks. The temperature of tlie surface water fell IViiiii I'orty to thirtv-live dcirrces on en- 4/ ~ tering the pack, and rose t<> thirty-eight on passing it. At live fathoms in the pack it was thirty-four degrees. On the 14th, oft' (iodthaal), the fog lifted and permitted our tirst glimpse of (ircen- laiid. The mountains rise Natural Monument near Godhawn. ^Ffom a Photograph.) some three thousand feet, displaying their glacial garb as a fit- ting border to the desolate coast in the foreground. The northerly gale broke sufficiently on the 1-ith to afford ti'limpses of the sun, and our noonday observation — the first of IS«1.] THE VOYAOK TO Ul'KUNIVIK. 4:1 ilio vovajjo — ])]:ice:uiisli llag was displayed from tho station's flagstalT. Our vessel was hardly anchored when a kindly gentleman, evidently of Scandinavian (trigiu. boarded it, and in good Knglish bade us welcome to Disco. It was Ilei'r Krarup Smith, tho fioyal In- spector of Ts'orth (Jreenland, an ollicial of imvarying courtesy, whose helpful kindness and advice was always at tho command of whaler or e.\])lorer. His deatli in ^Fay, 1S82, created a void ill Xortlieni (ireenland which it will be difhcult to fill. Inspector Sniitb was about leaving for his annual tour of in- spection to 1 jHTiiivik, on the Danish bi'ig which lay in the harbor. Jle delayed his departiwe a day that lu; might extend to the expedition all postiible assistance. The usual visits of ceremony were duly made, and later tho otlicers of the party dinc-d with Mrs. Smith. The dinner was a surprise to us all, as we expected but little variety in that part of the globe. A tiny bouipiet <)f cultivated llowers for each, first greeted our vision. The princijjal dishes were fresh (Ireenland salmon of delicate llavoi-, larded eider-ducks, and tender Arctic ptarmigan ; all served with excellent wines. licgarding vegetables, it should bo said that, except radishes, lettuce, etc., they are imported canned, as they will not grow at I I '[|i !i i\ 44 TUKKK YKAIJS OK AllCTIC HKRVICK. [July. (uxlhavn. TliLTo was no irosli nifut there except ii little which wo were able to spare, lleiiuleer (whieli i"i»nuerly loained over Diseo alone of the (ireenhind islands) is the favorite meat with Europeans, thouj^h many relish seal meat. The latter, though tender and juicy, lias a slightly sweetish taste, which is us un- ]>alatablo to some as its coarse dark meat is unpleasiiig to the eye. At (lodhavn it is a case of the mountain and the sea, for as you turn vowr back to Disco ]»av theclilTs surinij: over two thou- sand feet out of the very water. The upper half, a dark beet- liuiT precipice, impresses one equally by its grandeur and des- olation. The lower half is clothed more or less with vegeta- tion, and at one point a break in the cliff leaves a sloping valley, through which glides a sparkling bnxtk, which from above plunges wildly down its bed of rugged rock. This brook hardly seems an Arctic one, as its l)anks and borders are covered with a vegetation which would bo luwiriant I'ven in lower latitudes. The valley is called the '• heath-tiekl," and the visitor well be- lieves the statement that it is the best botanical spot of (ireen- land, ami that over forty varieties oi plants can there bo gathered. The surroundings of (Jodhavn are striking and impressive. The settlement itself is situated on a small syenite island, which is sparsely covered with soil and vegetation. Its highest point is of scarcely a hundred feet elevation, but so mnnerous were the icebergs on that July day, that from it more than a hun- dred could be counted at once. These huge masses of castellated ice broke with their snowy whiteness the monotony of the sea, and as they drifted past, drew after them unceasiniily our thouichts and attention. In general, these white-w-inged ships were silent messengers of peace, but in entering the harbor our gentle swell struck lazily t I iij ^ 1881. J rilK VOYAOK TO UP K UN IV IK. 40 niul softly a boautiliil borg of lofty iircliort, Hlondor pinnacles, and stately colonnades, down the sides of which miniature tor- rents poured. It needed but this slij^ht impulse to destroy it« equilibrium, and in an instant it burst into countless fragments which whitened the sea with foam, and rolled Inigo billows in all directions. The thundering report startled us all, and the re- sistless forco sliuwn by this moimtain of ico inspired tho least imprcssivo with feelings of awe. The external aspects of tho colony of Godhavn icpresent well the principal trading stations of (ireenland. The few dwelling- houses for the Danish otHclals are commoidy wooden structures with thick walls of rough hewn logs, which insure thorougli dry- ness andsutRcient warmth. Tho dark tarred walls are relieved by white or red window-casings, and generally the roof has a reddish tinge quite in consonance with the predominating color of the adjacent rock-masses. It is pcu-haps needless to say that tho interiors of these houses aro Danish liomes, and that in somo of them one would not know, save from tho trim, neatly-dressed Eskimo servants, that it was tJreeidand and not Denmark. Several of the latest books lay on tho table at Inspector Smith's, and we were favored with piano accompaniments for many songs, from The Star Spangled I'anner to Denmark's national anthem. A neat church with spire and bell, the indispensable trade storehouses, with workshops and oil manufactory, con- clude the list of Government buildini's. The Eskimo houses are, as a rule, very poor, generally stono and turf structures lined with wood, and pi-ovided with tho usual wooden, raised platform, serving :as a bench by day and for a bed at night. Tho better class of houses replace the flat roof of dirt and turf by a sloping one of wood, and, besides adding a wooden floor, substitute glass for the old membranous panes from the intestines of the seal. ( I 46 TIIUKE YEAKS (tF AllC TIC SERVK'K. [July, One rarely can stand erect in a lionse, and the odors peculiar to the universal Eskimo lani]>, united to others, ai'o hardly less tryin<; within, than are the strong-smelling luaps of refuse with- out, the doors. A cursory view of their interiors was encugli fur me. and it seems strange that the enforced conditions, under which the inmates of these densely-crowded huts pass the long Aivtic winter, do not cause greater ravages by disease. A very shoi't \'\At ti> an Kskinu) dance, whicli was given in honor of our arrival, was sufficient to conviiK-e me that the natives understand how to enjoy sucli gatherings, but did not awaken any inclination to participate therein, though others of the expedition thought otherwise. In Greenland as elsewlierc*, chacun a son (tout. On landing you are at oiu-e impressed with the number and character of the «logs. The dog is an important animal in Northern (Ireenland, and he seems to kiiow his vantage, lie looks on every stranger as an enemy, who unist be watched aiul harassed. Tiiey are annoying oidy on their own domain, aiid r.re experts in those false attacks whicli are trying to one .-. tt.'m- I^er and digiuty. It is amusi'ig, when not personally interested, to lote how suddenly a snai'ling, yelling pack, snapping at one's heels, will turn pnd ii -c when tliev near the "'round of some other kin«r. lie is r ran dog, indeed, wh. dares travel alone through the entire village of Godha\ n. A stick or stone generally quiets a pack, but occasionally, when very harshly treated, and when long .star\i'd they are dangerous to children, and even, though very rarely, to men. O.ir team purchased at (lodhavu were stout, '-urly animals of apparevitly incurable viciousness, which, as we shall sec 'ater, completely vanished under Lhe benign iitluences of kind treat- ment and irood food. ^ .V. lt*81.I THE VOYA^^"}; TO UPEUNIVIK. 47 Twelve (logs wit a siij)ply of dog-food -were jmrcliascd, and tlie house and })onnnicaii, stored there hy the iiiifortiuiate llow- gate expedition of 18>SU, were taken on board. On July 2()tli ])r. Octave ]*avy arrived from Jlitenbenk, where ho had passed the preceding year as naturalist of the llowgate expedition, lie was contracted with as an acting assistant surgeon of the army for duty with the expedition, and took the oath of service that da}'. The last hours at (Jodhavn Mere given t<> our mail, as two days later a Danish hrig was to sail from Egedesminde, which should "onvey to oin- friends hy the end of August full news of our safe arrival in (Jreeidand. A few hours' steaming on the morning of July 21st, took us along the hold, high coast of Disco Island to the entrance of ^Vaigat Strait. Along this coast for fifty miles to the eastward no shelter exists for ves- sels, and for over iive miles from Godhavu, the most active iiiount:iineer would search in v;un for a foothold to scale its precipitous cliffs. Our passage was a charming one with frowning barren crags to our left, aiul to (tur right the smooth bUu' sea, doited with countless beri;s of endless variety, bright and beautiful under Arctic sunshine. Uut " I)y and by a cloud took all away," for a dense Arctic fog shut (piickly down, and made it dilHcult for our sharp-eyed Immit pilot to guide the I'roteus safely to anchor- age in the narrow docp ilord which separates liitenbeidc fi'om Arveprins Island. The governor bore a name well known in connection with Orceidand, M(irch. Half Dane, half Eskimo, a man of refine^ ment ami sentiment, he luid l)een educated in the nH)ther coun- try, and had coirio to do service in his native clime. lie made us at hfinie in Uitenbeidv. and greeted us with genuine Scandi- navian liospitality. The same old Danish brig, Tialfe, which !l I : i 1 1^ 11^ u mi'. T^T i ■' 48 TIIRKE YEARS OF AUCTIO SERVICE. [July, ' ( Hayes found at Uperiiivik in 1800, was in tlie harbor, ami wo dined with the governor and her ulllcers that evening. At tlic end of the meal the old Scandinavian eustoni of grace, by nni- versal handshaking and the salutation, "^luch good may it do you," iirst fell under my notice. A number of dogs, with additional food and other supplies, were obtained at Ilitenbenk. The new-comers were not at all welcomed by the old r. Pavy in Creeidand. While stores were being ])urchased, dogs brought on board, and accounts adjusted, and as the fog still held, I sent Lieu- tenant Lockwood with a boat's -jrew to the loomery on Arve- prins Island for birds. They were only moderately successful, owing to the height of the lower ledges above the sea, and brought back but sixty-tive Eruemucirs guillemots (Alca arra), which were simply 'Irawn, and hung uj) in the rigging to dry for future food. The bird dilVs on Arvc])rins Ishiinl desor'o a ])assing notice, not for /vrctic travellers, but for the gmeral n-adi'r. For ovi-r a thousand fec;t out of tlu; sea tlu'se .lifl's rise ])er- pendicaiarly, broken only by ikhiow- ledges, in general inacces- sible to man or other I'liemy^ which alt'ord certain kiiuis of sea- fow! secure .nul (Minvenicnt breeding-places. On the face of these sea-ledges of Arveprins Island Hruennich's guillemots, or WfV ! |i i ■■R ^am J ^ (-H.' 1881.] TIIK VOYAGE TO UPERNIVIK. 49 looms, gather in the brceatfin JJay, just as strong wind and rain t'ame. The navigation of the AVaigat is extremelv dand In-fore ns, and had interested himself in the supplies wanti'd. It was found that only ten suits of clothing, made to order for tlie exjtected Danish inter- national station, could be procureih and that boots, which we much needed, could oidy be luid by a week's delay. The two Eskimo dog-i'«-'vented .sailing on the li^th, but the next day, be- fore the storm had subsided. Lieutenant Lockwood starteil, acconqianied by (Jovernor Elbeig. They took the inside pas- sage, between the islands and main-land, but it was necessary at one point to venture into the open sea. Lieutenant Lockwood returned on the 2Sth, bringing two Eskimo, Thorlip Freibnik Christiansen, aged thirty -five, and Jens Edward, aged thirty- eight. These men Avere contracted with, and joined the exjie- ,', iy J , IWI. Tin-; \(»vA(iK TO ii'Ki;m\ IK. 63 (litioii llio s.'uiio (liiy, liriiigiii '% V ;■■ I !' •! M'^l Upefnivik at Midnight CllAPTEK \L MELVILLE BAY TO TOUT CONGER. "XTTE rail northward until Berry Islands were sighted, and, noting tlio entire ahsence of ice, other than the nii- merons bergs from Augpadlarsok fiord, 1 ordered that a direct course be laid for Cape York, believing that the " middle pas- sage " would be both practicable and safe at that late season of the 3"ear, especially as the spring and summer had been so unusually warm. The ship was rumiing at full speed in an ice- less sea as I went to rest at midnight. It should be remembered that we had long been in the region of perpetual daylight, if not sunlight ; for, though the sun sets not in the far north, yet the prevalent Arctic fog hides his face for days at a time. Our run on July 1st was through an open sea, in which no semblance of a jiack was noted until about 5 p.m. It then con- sisted of small ])ieces of jiancake ice, which would in no way interfere with the progress of any steaming vessel ; it was scarcely three miles long, and barely reached a mile or two to tlie westward. ]MELVILL7<: BAY TO FOKT CONGER. 67 As we were passing the northern edge of this pack, a Polar bear was descried on a small piece of pan-ice. lie was busily engaged in eating a young seal which he had just caught, and apparently did not notice the vessel ntitil it was within a half mile of him. He ran a few yards fruu: llu; ■ al, but Liter re- turned to it, and, strangely enough, seemed nnicii disinclined to leave the ice for the water, returning to the Hoe after a tem- porary plunge. A large number of shots were fired at him from the vessel, one or more of which seemed to strko him. The Proteus was stopped and a boat lowered, in which Lieu- tenants Xislingbury and Lockwood, with one or two others, effected his capture. He was killed by a bullet, probably from Lieutenant Kislingbury's ritle, but for many days there were long and unsatisfactory discussions as to whom should be awarded the credit for his death. Our bear was a young one, seven feet six inches long, and probably of some six hmidred pounds weight. His flesh was quite palatable, more so, it was generally considered, than that of the cinnamon of our own C(juntry. He M-as photographed by Sergeant Rice, and skinned by the Eskimos. Iso further ice was met with, and at ■! r.M. of the 31st the mate and quartermaster, through a break in the light fog, sighted land, which must have been the high cliffs of Cape York. The fog grew denser, instead of breaking as we hoped, and obliged the vessel to run at half speed until 8 a.m., when the speed was reduced to steerage-way, as the dead reckoning put us in the neighborhood of Cape York. Later the fog broke for a few moments, and showed land some five miles to the northward, but closed again before it could be identified. We were obliged to remain under steerage-way during the rest of the day, and scarcely ran more than twenty miles. The renuirkably open condition of Melville Bay had enabled \ \s TWPf W : (' ' i 58 TIIllEE TEARS OP ARCTIC SERVICE. [July, I') 1 , I Li. ns to make an nnprccedentcdly rapid crossing, but thirty-six hours' time being occupied in its passage. The icG of Melville J3ay is justly dreaded, but in latier years, steam, experience and modern e(]uipment have done much to insure the safety of its regular navigators, the hardy whalers, who brave its dangers at the earliest moment, and under tlie most unfavorable conditions. For years their vessels have been bt)ldly pushed into the ice in Max, and at least two soa- sons have seen them in the "North Water," near Cape York, as '3arly as June 3d. Discovery- and relief-ships have hazarded nearly sixty times the perils of ice-navigation within its limits, and invariably without loss of life or vessel. This immunity from disaster has arisen from their usual practice of attempting the passage of Melville Bay much later than the whalers, — at a time when navigation is substantially safe, — in July or August. Except the Relief Squadron of 188-J-, and McClintock in the Fox, I re- call no vessels of that class which have entered its ice in June. During the day and evening the compasses unfortunately gave 1881.] MELVILLE BAY TO FOKT CONGEU. 69 US inncli trouble, being very shiggish, and consequently unre- liable. Several soundings, from six to eight miles west and southwest of Cape York, gave no bottom at one hundred and eighty-five fathoms. A layer of warm water was found between the s\u'- face and the greater depth, the temperature of the surface vary- ing from 33.2° to 35" ; at five fathoms, 35.7° to 3G.7°; and at one hundred and eighty-fathoms, 31.5°. iV youTig male square-Hipper seal {Phoca harbata) was killed on a detached ice-ilt)e during the dav. On the morning of August 1st the fog lifted, and the vessel's position Avas found to be about twenty miles southwest of Petowik glacier, which lies just northward of "The Crimson Cliffs " of Sir Julm lloss. A sounding thirteen miles west of the glaciei- ga\o I'ocky bottom at one hundred and ten fathoms, and a temperature of 35° at surface and five fathoms, which re- nuiined steady as we ran inward and oI)tained a second sound- iuff, with mud bottom at seventv-two fathoms, two miles off the glacier front. The heavy sea prevented successful photograph- ing of the glacier. Some patches of snow of a dirty reddish color were observed from the Petowik glacier northward toward Wolsteidiolme Island, being without doubt drifts of the famous red snow, first discovo'ed by Sir John lloss, in 1818. Though desirous of obtaining specimens of Protococeus lurallx, which gives the color to this snow, I was uawilling to land for that purpose alone. The vegetable character of this phenomena has been (piite clearly settled by Dr. Ilobert I>rown. At 10.15 A.M. we were off Wolstenholmo Island, and at 1 p.si, left it behind, as Ave laitl our course for the Cary group. Icebergs, which were rare in the neighborhood of Cape York, were found to bo very numerous near the northern end of Wol- ' \ : |! s 60 TIIRKE YEAHS OF AliCTIO SEUVICE. [July, 1^' steiihoimo Islaiul, Jiiid ii one of these a large spot of the (lee\>- cst and most o.\(^uisite bhie was seen, Avhieh contrasted finely •\vitli the bhiisli-wliite of the main berjj;, and was sutficiently marked to renuiia visible for nearly an hour. The Gary Islands were sighted at 3 r.M., and ibout two hours later the Proteus stoi)ped at tlie north end ut' the southeast island of the group. To the southward of this island, at least thirty large icebergs were soen, evidently grounded, but else- where there was scarcely a particle of ice in sight. Lieutenant Kislinifburv and Dr. Paw examined the cairn erected by Sir George Kares in IS 75, and visited by Sir Alio . Young in the Pandora (afterward the Jeanette) later that year and again in ISTO. The records left by the latter officer were found in good condition, wrapped in a number of the London Oraj}hic. A copy of these records was left, and a short note was also deposited, giving a brief account of our visit to the island. The enthusiastic phot< grapher of the expedition, assisted by Bonie of the men, succeeaed with great difficulty in transporting his apparatus to the summit of the island, which is some five hundred feet above the sea, and obtained a photograph of the cairn. The island is so rough in general that it is with some trouble that an miencunibered man can ascend the greater part of its cliffs. Vegetation was exceedingly scanty. The depot of thirty-six hundred i-ations, left by Sir George Kares in 187."), was found in a small cove at the southern jioint of the island. The supplies were located on a rocky slutulder, some thirty feet above the sea, which connnanded Baffin Bay to the southwestward. The depot was in i^uite good condition, excepting a certain portion of the bread, which was found to be somewhat mouldy, though still eatable. The bread which was bad was in casks which had been left with the head upward, 't,, althoviiih he sailed some eight leagnes to the northward of this point. IngloHeld was hardly fair to the old explorer when he clainiad iSorthund)erland and the adjacent isles as newly discov- " An Hand we called Hakluit's ilo." [Uajlln's Fmllifnt land, July I, IGlfi.l ered, for it is evident that I'aflin must have seen those islands as well as IJakluyt, although the map of his remarkable discov- ej'ies of 1G16 is lost to the world. From Cape Chalon northward a close watcli was kept u])on the main-land, in hopes some Etah natives might be seen and connnunicated with by us. The remarkable tabulated masses of land in the neighbor- hood of Cape Alexander have been made familiar to the world by the vivid descriptions of Kane and Hayes, with whose labors they nnist ever be associated. To the southward of that capo the great Mer de Glace is 1881.] MELVILLE BAY TO FORT CONOEll. 63 nearly always in sight from the open sea, and, Leing a pretloni- iiiating feature in the landscape, naturally conveys a scusc of barrenness and desolation ; but to the noi-tliward the inland ice has retreated far from the sea, leaving the land free from ice or snow, and broken in at many points by fertile valleys, which impress themselves more strongly npon one through their con- trast with the shores just passed. ^ Along the coast only an occasional bit of ice-foot was seen, and in the sea but a single berg and a few pieces of lloe-ice to the southward of Littleton Island. Pandora Harbor was passed at It) a.m., and at noon the Proteus anchored between Cape Ohlsen and Littleton Island. Lieutenant Kislingbury, with a party including the Eskimo, was sent to Life-lioat Cove to examine the winter (quarters of the crew of the Polaris, and open connnunication with the Etah Eskimo, if any could bo found. They brought back the transit instrument, which was found badly damaged about tifteen feet from the cairn in which it had been originally deposited. Polaris house had entirely disappeared, but its site was marked by a cooking-stove, steam-gauge, and many different pieces of metal, but no wood. A thermometer scale was found which belonged to an instrument mamifactured by Tagliabue, scaled from 120° down to minus 100°, and on which tlie name of Hall had been scratched with some pointed instrument. Lieutenant Lockwood improved our stay by landing a quan- tity of coal on the extreme southwestern point of Littleton Island, the only article of our supplies which could well be spared. "While these parties were thus engaged, I thoroughly exam- ined the island for the purpose of finding the mail which had been landed there in 1S76, for the Xares expedition, by Sir Allen Young. Some fifty cairns, great and small, were found, nono H . ! ' ( fl I \ \ i, (! rm I >: i!i ' I 64 THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE. [Aug., of which contained ii record save one, which informed us that the whaler Erik, under Captain Walker, touched at the island Juno 20, 187G. Six hours' fruitless search t)n foot had no rc- sidts ; l)\it later, takiui^ a ])oat, I followed the coast with two men, along the shore from fifty to two hundred yards from the water's edge, so as to cover the entire ground, and eventually succeedeil in discovering the mail at the extreme northern end of the west coast, some thirty yards from the water's edge. Four hoxes and three casks of mail matter were discovered, marked by a very small cairn, which contained no record. ( )u tlie western coast of the island I also found a wet wad of paper, which was carefully dried, and examined a few days later. It seemed to show conclusively that the Xarcs cairn had been opened, probably by the Eskimo, as the paper proved to be part of the London Standard, dated May 17, 1875, in which was contained intact an account of a lecture of Captain Xares on the Arctic expedition, delivered at Winchester Guildhall April 30, 187.5, While at Littleton Island, walrus were found in considerable numbers. The party which visited Life-IJoat Cove encountered a herd near that point. Two of the animals, a fenude and her calf, were fired at and woundeil. The calf saidc, and was possi- bly killed. The female, after one plunge, came again to the sur- face, and, infuriated by her wonnds, rapidly approached the boat, evidently with hostile intentions. The Eskimo, who better than the rest realized tlie danger, counselled a reti-eat, but two shots at a few yards caused the walrus to dive again, and she appeared no more. The boat landing coal had similar experiences, except that the entire herd when fired on rapidly approached the boat with threatening actions, but drew off when very near. Their great strength, enormous size, and ferocious appearance are very trying to inexperienced liunters, and these qualities, added to 1881.] MELVILLE BAY TO FORT CONGKK. 66 foai'lossness and curiosity, m:iko it a dangerous animal to attack in its own element. The full-grown walrus is froin twelvo to fifteen feet in length, has a small, short head, with strong bristles about the size of largo darning-needles. The broad foro and hind paws are about two feet long, and the tusks of adults generally about a foot and a half, although they have been known to exceed thirty inches, in length. The tusks of the female are much more slender than those of the male. They are very gregarious, and seem to find a certain pleasure in frequent bellowing, by ex- pelling the air through their nostrils. The northern poi-tion of Littleton Island appeared to be a favorite resort of eider ducks. Hundreds were found nesting, but from the lateness of the season the eggs were unfit for eat- ing. Tho nests were beds of rich, soft down, which were but partly concealed by adjacent rocks or vegetation. The female birds left their nests with great reluctance, and only when a]iproached within a few yards. Our larder was increased by oidy eleven ducks, as no time was given to hunting. Private Henry discoverc' at a low point on the south side of Jittletun Island, opposite Cape Oldsen, the remains of an Eskimo wonuui buried in an old Eskimo house. The house was carefully examined by me, and evidently had been at some time a permanent habitation. Not only the house itself, but the external surroundings, and the rank and luxuriant vegetation near, were quite conclusive on that point. From the location of the body, it is possible that this was the last of a family. Ingle- field states, that a winter hut at Eardin Bay was found blocked up by a stone, which removed disclosed the dead body of a man within, and he was advised that it was a frequent custom to let the house form the tomb for the last of a family. Au accident had occurred to the wheel just after passing ) H i i ' ' 1 \ 1 \l tii&tA i? i .VE «>«•_£ .11. ^1 1 i iiil '^^^^nu 'i '< i 1 H 66 TIIIJKK YKAi:s OK AlU'TIC SKUVICK. I Alii,'-, Capo Alexiiiuk'r, and tlio stop at LittletDii Islund was iinprovod by piittiiijjj it ill order, wliicli delayed ua until nearly midniglit. 1 olionld have been glad to have visited I Ijiyes' old winter- quarters in I'ort Foulko, a few miles south of liittleton Island, in hopes of seeing Boine of liis old Etah friends, hut lack of time forbade. The view from Littleton Island to the northward some forty miles showed the sea entirely free from ice. <\ware of the ex- treme rapidity with whieli ice eonditions change in that sea, I Port Foulke. \]f'iiitcr-(jii(irtern iif Dr. Jlai/e-i, IsWJiil.l decided not to touch at Cape Sabine to examine the sledging depot at that point, but to shape a direct course for Cape Hawks. Cape Sabine was passed about 2 a.m., ajid shortly after small amounts of floe-ice were seen, but not in sufficient ipian- tities to form even an open pack. To the westward, in Bu- chanan Strait, what appeared to be an ice-foot was seen, but from later experiences I am satisfied that it was a series of low floes, or more probably the unbroken ice of the previous winter. At 4 A.M. a seemingly close pack was ceen to the eastward, 1881.] ^IKLVIIJ-K HAY TO FORT CONOEU. 07 l)iit liilfi- il tIovL'lui)tHl into fitroivm-ico of fiiuall exti'iit. I cMiiie (111 (Iwlc at tliiit tiiiic, and IViuikI our position to \>c off Capo ( 'auipordown. Tlio scuiio tlion was ono ot' roniarkablc beauty, uiKJ, I'atlicr than an Arc^tic nii;-lit, suonieil to recall a Ijracinj^ *Jc- tober morning in New I-lngland. It was proliably aI)out the turn of the tide, us the entire sea was as smooth as a mill-pond. In oecasional places during the night, a bare iilin <>1" new ice had I'orinetl which indicated the approacii of winter. At 4.fjO A.Ai. wo were opposite the centre of Hacho Island, and from its appearance to me at that time, from tlie bridge of the Proteus, I could readily understand how Hayes mistook the single island for two, A long, bro:i(l valley separated A'ic- toria Head from Cape Albert, and its vanishing point was many miles to the westward. The vessel was stopped a few moments, in order to obtain a jihotograph of Dache Island and the land to the westward. The la'idsca[)e at that time was one of unusual interest. The Bun appearetl especially brilliant, the sky was free from all except a few delicate cirrus-clouds, and the air was in that state of visibility which renders the outlines of distant t)l)jects par- ticularly sharp and distinct. The entire coast of Ellesmere and (irinnell Lands was not only visible through the air, but its image was perfectly retle(;ted from the smooth sea. The view of that shore was clear and distinct, from Cape Sabine north- ward to Cape Napoleon. To the southeastward, near Van Ilensselaer Harbor, made immortal by the heroism of Kane, the highlands were plainly visible. Although the e.xpedition, as a rule, was little given to senti- ment or enthusiasm, yet the scene and its conditions caused general excitement and the deepest feeling. But three vessels had ever before attained so high a latitude in those waters, and none with such ease ; and the ai>i)earance of these Arctic lands. m til GS TIIKEE YEARS OF AUCTIC SERVICE. [Aug., devoid, as a rule, of snow, and gloi-iiied by the rays of tlie au- tinini sun, presented a prospect whicli Avas entirely different in its details from anv we had ever anticipated. The stern "-ran- deur and desolation which are marked characteristics of Arctic landricapes were not wanting, but the poetical picturesqueness and delicate beauty of the scene were its predominant features. The absence of ice was particularly marked. The .north end of I'aclie Island was i-eached at 5 a.m., and at that time but few pieces of Hoe- or harbor-ice could be seen i.i Kane Sea, and but two bergs wej'o sighted from Cape Sabine to Cape Hawks. To the northward of 15ache Island, the ice of the ))revious winter still remained solid and unbroken in I'rinccss Alario Bay. A photographic view of Cajie Hawks and the coast to the northward was obtained at a point some eight miles distant from that cape, which, Uiougli not valuable as a photograph, was useful for topographical purposes. Ca]ie Hawks was passed, and the Proteus stopped at 9 a.m. opposite the rocky ledge in Dobbin Bay on which the English depot of 1875 had been caclu;d. AV^hile Sergeant Kice, the photographer, was diligently ply- ing his ])rofession from a large floe of harbor-ice, I visited the depot and carefully exammed its contents. At the time of our visit the tide was low, and at the edge of the land we were confronted by a j)erpendicular ice-wall of eight to ten feet in height, which was scaled with some little ditHculty. Seven casks of l)rcad, aggregating twenty-seven hundred pounds ; two casks of stoarinc, of four hundred pounds ; one barrel of pi-eserved potatoes, two hundi'cd and ten pounds ; two kegs of pickles, and two partly tilled, kegs of rum, composed tlie remains of the depot. These articles wei-e in good condi- tion, except a poi'tion of the bread, which was mouldy, though 1881.] MELVILLE BAY TO FORT CONGEU. 69 generally eatable. The casks had been deposited on a ledge of uneven surface, and the melting snow in sunnner had gathered in pools around, and later had frozen them from an eighth to one- half deep in solid ice. The casks were all cut out of the ice and placed in such location as would better protect them from the moisture. A haU'-iilled keg of rum, the piccalilli, and sam- ple cases of the preserved potatoes were taken with us, as well as the jolly-boat, which was also cached there. Insufficient means had not allowed the proper equipment of the expedition with boats, or this would have remained midisturbctl at Cape JIuwks. The excellent workmanship and litness of this boat for Arctic service was exemplilied by the fact that, despite its six years' exposure to the dry Arctic atmosphei'c, il; was yet in such condition that^, though leaking, it was seaworthy at once. It was named the A^alorous, from the ship to which it formerly belonged. The cache at Cape Hawks, dejiosited by the English in 1875, was one of the two principal dei)ots established under the advice and direction of a board of Arctic experts, who had given the subject of exploration by the Smith Sound route careful and considerate attention. The second depot consisted, equally with that of Cape Hawks, of thirty-six hundred rations, and was the one which had liccn visited by us August 1st, at Southeast Cary Island. The very snuill cache established at Payer Harbor, Cape Sabine, was for use, as Sir George Kares said, of any possible sledge ])arty travelling in that direction. Il contained only two hmulred and iifty sledging rations and a small (juantity of dog-food. It is now evident to the whole world that Cape Sabine is the key of Smith Sound, but such fact was by no means clear to the English Arctic board, while the problem was an unro- il S f' . r m m ^mM m 1 1 , il 1 f i \ 1 !'■ 1 t i' i ^ ■In' 70 TIIIIKK YEAKS OF ARCTIC SKIJVICK. [Aug., solved one. If the English expedition ol' isT.") had lost their pjiips, the i'onr weeks' pn)visi(>ns ;it Cupe Hawks eonld never liHve carried their crews to Southeast Gary Island, except under favorable conditions, which larely occur in Ivanc Sea. This statement, showini:; that the views of the highest and most com- petent Arctic authorities were followed in our original i)lan, by Washington Irving Island. [ f V'/J'"'''"' ' '"/"' //<'"'< v. I no means precludes the admissinn that Cape Sabine should have been jirovi^jdiicd at that time. Five walruses were seen at Cape Hawks, which, in Cdiniec- tion with the observations (if ihe English on Ts'orman Enckyer Island, indicate that these animals yeai'ly iVecpient that part of Kane Sea. The serial sea temperatures at Cape Hawks showed a fall in the tempei'atuic of tlu> water since Cape Sabine had been I 1881. MELVILLK HAY TO FORT CONGER. 71 passed ; that of the surfiice buiiig '.]2.ir, and at thirty fathoms 30.7°. The vegetation at Capo Hawks and on AV^asliington Irving Lsland was scanty and stunted. Tliree varieties only ot: plants were found on the main-land and eight on the island. ^\.s the Proteus passed Washington Irving Island, we picked up our jihotographer, as well as Dr. Pavy and Jiiuutenant Lockwood, who had been searching the cairn on the island. The latter olRcer brought back Captain N ares' record of Au- gust, 1875, and Septendjer, 187G, which gave a brief account of his visit and action. Co]>ies of these papers were left, and a new record added, which gave brielly our experiences to date. The harljor-ice of Dobbin I>av was solid and unbroken. Its margin reached the north end of AVashington Irving Island, so that we were obliged to pass to the southward on leaving Cape Hawks. At 3 I'.jr. Cape Fi-azer was reached, from which Washing- ton Land of Kane was first sighted, the high land to the nortli- ward of Cass I>ay t-howing up clearly. This point, Cape Fra- zer, is a notable one in more than one respect. It was Hayes' farthest ll'irty years ago, while serving as a surgeon with Kane, and it is in the immediate neighborhood of this cape that the Atlantic tide, surging northward through Davis Strait and Smith Sound, meets its sister tide twelve hours older, which lias ]iassed northward by the Spitzbergeu Sea, and rounding Cape Washington has tK)W('(i southward through tlie I'olar Ocean and liobesoii ('liaimel. Ill the neighborhood of this point the first palffiocrystic floe- bergs fell under our observation. Tt> the uninitiated, rough and heavy field-ice, which has been increased in thickness by underrunnlng or doubled up by pressure, nuiy be mistaken for 72 TIIREK YEARS OK ARCTIC SERVICE. [Aug., palieocrystie, but the latter ice once seen the mistake never oc- curs again. Its identity is unmistakable. Four floe-bergs only were seen, two to the nortliward and two to the southward of Frazer, and no paUuocrystic floe was met until Capo I'aird was reached. At 5 I'.M. Cape MeCliiitock was passed and the eightieth parallel crossed. Scoresby Bay was not only full of harbor-ice, evidently unbroken that year, but a delicate fringe of new ice at It 'Marghi extended a mile or more into the sea. Fog and drizzling rain set in shortly after, obliging ns to run at half-speed. It was so dense on sighting Cape Collinson, at 5.30, that I did not feel justified in attempting the examina- tion of the small depot there cached, particularly as its exact location was not known, and the search would have necessitated securing the vessel in Hichardson Bay. At 10 p.m. the fog was so dense that the ves.aird to the Greenland coast above Cape Tyson. These Hoes ranged from twenty-five to fifty feet in thickness, and proved to be veritable islands of ice — tiie true palivocrystic Hoes of \ares. We returned to the neighborhood of Cape Baird, aiul tied 11]) to the pack to await future movements of the ice. Oil August otb, with a small party, I visited and examined carefully Capo Lieber, which was about four miles distant. The precipitous cliffs rise some two thousand feet from the sea, and it is possible to scale them only at one point, through a rugged, rocky ravuie, which the summer stream in course uf aires has worn through the disintegrated rock. The ascent was made only with great difficulty. Lieutenant Lockwood and Dr. I'avy climbed different peaks at the extreme summit, which was entirely barren, save miniature glaciers in two places. No cairn of any kind was in sight, though any present could not have failed to meet the eye, nor were there any other traces of a pre- vious visit. Two small cairns were erected by our party. The Grinnell Land coast was visil)le many miles to the northward, a rug<;ed, bold highland, although its mountain masses presented to the eye very gently rounded contours, with no distinctly rising peak in any direction. Through the pack in ILiU Uasiii there were many lanes of 1881.] MELVILLE 15AY TO FOUT CONOEIt. 75. water visible, and the general movement of the detached pieces showed a southward tendency. That evening we were able to advance about a mile toward Discovery Harbor, through a large number of floes breaking off and drifting slowly southward. During the day a number of schools of white whales {Beluga catadon) were seen, there being as many as thirty at one time. Mr. Korman, the mate of the Proteus, saw with them their active enemy, a sword-fish [O/ra gladiator, Bonn). On tlie 0th a munber of narwhals {3lotiodo)i moiioceros) were seen, and another school of white whales. The two Es- kimo pursued them in their kayaks, and Jens succeeded in strik- ing a narwhal, but after an exciting struggle, during which he came to the surface of the water twice, the animal managed to break the line and carried away the harpoon with him. The white whale is from twelve to eighteen feet in length, and yields not far from a thousand pounds each of meat and blubber. It is a very beautiful animal, with a smooth, un- wrinkled hide, which is of waxy-white color in adults, but of a light gi'ayish brown in the young. They are very active, swim M'ith great rapidity, and usually travel in schools. In (irreenland from five to six hundred are caught yearly, almost all by nets. The skin, called 'Mnattak" by the Eskimo, is esteemed a great dainty in ])anish Greenland when fresh, and that eaten by me tasted like a superior kind of tripe. It is much valued as an anti-scorbutic, and we obtained a considerable quantity oi it dried, in which condition it resembles pieces of inferior glue. The narwhal, or unicorn, is of a yellowish-white color, mot- tled with dark grayish spots in the adult. In the young both ground-color and spots are of consitlerably darker shade than in the full grown. The strikingly characteristic feature in the male is an abnornuxlly long tooth projecting from the left side i :| i I . ( :n f i!l f'f 'If I! !;! i^ii 76 TIIUKK YEARS OF AUCTIC SEItVICK [Aug., of tlio upjicr jaw, its fellow of the right side being alinost al- ways undeveloped. In the females both teeth are immature, as a rule. This tusk is sometimes developed to a length of ten feet, and, as the body is not luuch longer, it gives the animal a most striking appearance. The tusk ])oints slightly downward, is nearly straight, is spirally striated, tapers to a blunt point, and is of a yellowish- white substance, denser and harder than ivory. The spirals Narwhal Skull. [Shiiirimj Ahiuirmat Ih'VdiiimuiU 11/ Toiith in I.cfl Shlt\ I'/iiuy Jair.] terminate some si.x inches from the point, which is smooth and white as if from cctnstant nso. The tusk varies in thickness from two to three inches at the base, and from one-third to one-half incli at the point. Its use is not definitely known, but most probably it serves as a weapon, as but few are obtained in jicrfect condition. The aninuds are quick swinnners, active, gregarious, not easily alarmed, and are often found with tho white whale, which they follow. The tusks and oil are valua- ble, and the flesh palatable. They arc hunted by the Eskimo fi'om the kayak only. The sword-fish, or grampus, is a different species from tho M ^1 SA_^ I ! 1881.] MELVILLK HAY TO FORT CONOKIJ. 77 coinnioii Bword-fish of lower latitudes. It is a fierce, voracious fish of the dolpliiu family, possessing great streugtii and activ- ity, and ])ursue8 whales and seals with ruthless energy. 1 )r. Ksch- richt is said to have taken thirteen porpoises and fourteen seals I'loni iho stomach of one of these voracious animals, who was choked swallowing yet another seal. AVe saw many dovekies, and shot several during the day ; they fre(pient the clili's of Ca])e Lieher, and evidently hreed there. An attempt was made in the evening to reach Cape I'aird over the lloe, hut son»e changes in the ice appearing prohahie, the party was recalled. Sevei'al l.»rent geese, a hoatswain, and a snowy owl visited us during the day. On the 7th a northeasterly wind prevailed, which sent large quantities of heavy ice down Kennedy Chaimel, and obliged the Proteus to frequently change her location to avoid beset- nient, and at 10 i'.m. we were tied up to a Hoe in Kennedy Chamiel, live miles south of Cape Licber. Many of the iloes which passed south were from one to iive miles long, and from ten to iifty feet thick. In order to he on the safe side, the cajitain nuide ai'i'ajige- ments during the day for a possible nip, so that the propeller- screw and rudder coidd be readily hoisted. We were then in a largo, open-water space, ten miles long and from one to five miles broad, with the main jxick to the northward and the detached Hoes to the southwaid. White whales were again seen, and a number of birds, includ- ing the snow bunting, ringed plover, and Ivor}' gull. During the Sth the pack from tlu; northward filled Hall Basin completely, and Tvennedy Channel to the southward of Bessels I'ay, while the detached jiack to the southward appeared to be m I Li >.L IWf 1 1 78 TIIUKIO YKAKS OK AKCTIC SKI'.V ICK. fAub'., caught botwoeii Hans Island and the noith cajio ol' Carl Uitter liny, Iti ciisi) of a licavv northerly gale, it' the main pack had broken, tho only availahlo hlu'ltcr would have; heen at Hans Island, which jutssihly could have heen ])assc(l to the eastwaid. The narwhals i^till remained with us, and several were seen dur- ing till! day, and a iiuMd)er of seals, one of which was sliot. On the Uth the ice opened considerably, but snowy weather ])revented movement in any (lire<'tioii. A sijuare-tlipper seal {Phoca bit rOa ta) Wiia killed; ii falcon, tern, and glaucous gull were seen. Wo were surprised to see on the Inth a harp seal ( l*Jiinu Grocnlandica), winch, as well as dovekics and a nnnd)ei' of gnlls, visited the vessel. Snow still continued, which obscured the land for the greater pan of the day, and with continued in- action was very trying to our spirits. It was true that the situation remained unchanged, and no ground was lost to tlie southward, but our position was by no means encouraging. Since the ■1th of the month we had lost over forty miles of latitude, and instead of being iMght miles from our destination were nearer iifty. U was, therefore, with a peculiar feeling of gratification that we saw the wind, shortly after noon, back from the north to the favorable southwest cpiarter. On the morning of the 11th the sky showed signs of clearing, and at 7 a.m., under the inlluence of a southwesterly gale, the fog lifted to the northward. Very little ice was then in sight, and what there was crowded well to the eastern coast. AVe were then off Hans Island, from which we started northward at full speed, and on roimding Cape Lieber were delighted to see Lady I'^raidclin Bay equally clear of ice. The southwest wind continucil strong, and at 3 p.m., while we were crossing Archer liord, attained an hourly velocity of thirty- six miles. Bft; : 1881. MKLVII.LE 1?AV TO FOUT rONOKI!. 7!) Oil rc'iu'hiiig tlic nitraiicc (if Discoveiy Harbor,;! narrow cliaimt'l free from ice was found, Kopai-atiny tin; main ire of Archer iiord from a conwideralile pack wiiicli was visiMe in Watcr-(\)urBO Uay. Discovery Harbor was in llie same condi- tion as tlie hays to the soutliward — covered w ith heavy liarhor- ice of tlic prcvions ycai-'s formal ion. Eskimo Boys Fishing. The Proteus steamed slowly into the curved water-space to the northward of Dutch Island, the powerful engines stopped, an ice-anchor was tlirown on the luirbor-tloe, and our voyage to Lady Fraidvlin Jlay was prosperously ended. in m npr I ! vi ^ 4i IV .joiR*V«-.- --T^mf. Trie Pfotous in Uiicovury Harbor, ClIAPTEli VII. THE ItKTUllN OF THE PU0TEIT3. A S the Proteus iieavcd the entrance of tlie liarbor, a black "^^ speck apjiearecl liij^h up on the steep sides of Cairn Hill, which was soou «letcriMine(l to be a nuisk-ox. The moment tho vessel touched fast-ice iive or six oaiijer sportsmen started in pursuit of him. Somewhat to the chagrin of the huntsTueu of the expedition, he fell a prize to the boatswain, who beiiii^ in better condition to climb the steep cliffs, ilrst succeeded in getting within gun-shot. At the first ball the bull appeared to start toward the hunter, but a second shot caused him to stag- THE KETURX OF THE TROTEUS. 8t gor and fall for somo two linmlrecl feet down the fttcep cliffs, on the edge of wlilch ho was grazing. Wliilo the nnisk-ox was being sccnred, T went direct to Dis- c'ovory winter-cjuarters, where tlio post-otlU'o cairn of Captain Stephenson was visited. Two copper cases were ol)tained, lahi'Iled " iieeords and (ieneral Tiifonnation," the hitter of wliich, by coincidence, was dated Angnst 11, 1870, jnst live years previous to a day. A Hicks glacial thermometer, set five feet in tlie ground, recorded a t(!mperature of ^0 '. As the unfrozen ground attains its maximum temperature not far from that time of the year, this temperature seems rcasonal)ly the maxinnnn of the earth at that depth. Later observations and experiences show that the earth thaws oidy to a dejith of twenty-two to twenty-four inches, remaining eternally frozen below that point. About twenty-iive barrels of spoiled pork and beef, left by Captain iStcphenson in 1ST(5, were standing near, and numerous empty cans and other debris, such as nsually mark old encamp- ments were strewn around. A lai'ge tlock of eider-ducks hivd settled in an open pool near by, and to the uorthwaril some three-cpiarters of a mile ten musk- oxen were (piietly grazing. The atljacent brook-slo])es and margins were clothed with vegetation, composed of thick beds of Dri/as^ or clusters of Sa.vifmay, owing fo its proximity to a seam of excellent coal. Lieutenant Lockwood was in con- sequence sent to examine the existing conditions in AVater- course I'ay and to report thereon. He returned at a.m. of the I'Jtli, having killed during his absence three more nnisk- cattle. lie reported the coal seam as of ex "'lent ilarly made from August Sth on board ship, and on the morning of the 19th were regularly coTunienced on shore. Two days later a tide- gauge was up, and tiilal observations regularly conunenced. Prom the iSrh the men and ollicers were quartered camp- fashion in tents, but from fourteen to sixteen hours' work daily did wonders on our house, and on the 21st the cook's range was set up. The very low temperature nuide us feel the im- portance of quarters, especially for such articles as would be j'.iuch damaged by frost. Already from August 18th freezing temperatures occurred daily, and at 3 r.M. of the 29th the temperature fell below the freezing point, there to remain for a i)eriod of nine months. In the meantime the ice remained piled up at the eastern entrance to the harbor, and the Proteus, despite almost daily attempts to leave, was ice-bound in sight. Daily a note was .sent to hui-, that the latest tidings might reach our homes. Finally, on August 2Gth, she made a desperate attempt, and bi'oke through the dense, narrow strip of ])acked floes which had cut her off from open water. Archer Fiord was packed with ice, and she was compelled to run northeastward. iVU followed her movements with lively interest, and about 7 i'.m., some miles east of Distant Cape, she passed from our sight, as it proved, forever. # y'lr ll ! ( t \ n ' ' i t i i i. CHAPTER VIII. FOltT CONGEU. TT was but natural that many a longing glance should be sent after the departing ship, but, on the whole, I doubt not there was a certain sense of relief that the ship had actually gone, and that our work had fairly commenced. While the ship remaiued in the harbor it caused a feeling of restlessness and uneasiness, whicli (piite disappeared as soon as she de- parted. The work on the house was pushed with the utmost rapidity, and by August 25th some of the party moved in ; there being a roof to cover their heads, although the tioor and windows were not yet completed. A portion of the party remained a short time longer in the tents which formed our original <|uarters, some preferring to wait until everything was in order, and their places finally allotted to them ; and others because they realized that the (piarters in the house would soon become monotonous, and that it was best to defer their occupation unti] the last possible moment. The lirst Sunday on which I felt justified in resting was August 2Sth, on which day all unnecessary work was discon- tinued. At ten o'clock the entire party were assembled, ^nd the programme for future Sundays outlined. In dealing with the religious affairs of a party of that kind, which included in it members of many varying sects, I felt that ill mw II I'^'i ■ \. : !hJ r i^ 88 TITIIEE YKAIl.S OF AUCTIO 8EUVICK. [Any any regulations which might be fonnulated should rest on the broadest and most liberal basis. I said to them that, although separated from all the rest of the world, it was most proper and right that the Sabbath should be observed. In consequence, 1 announced that games of all kinds should be abstained from on that day. On each Sunday morning there would bo read by nio a selection from the Psalms, and it was expected that every member of the expedition should be present, mdoss he had conscientious scruples against listening to the reading o£ the l»ible. After services on each Suni*l -f'l! > I I 1 m : m ill »|: \-, •p: f ' ■■' 1 90 TTTIIEK YKAUS <»F AUCTIC! SKUVICK. fo n. Two-tiert>tl hniikH. , ItloilorbU'k, Ciiiiiii'll, Henry, Wlilslor. . i:iiMon,HcliiiL'iaor, Cross, rf, Ilonder, Ellis, . Ilniiimi'd, FrciliTlck, Ifiilstdii, lliinliiifr. . Jewell, loroel, Uico. . ('InistliinfM'ii, .Irlls. . Dr. I'livy. . lit. Klsliii^.'-liwrj . . I,t. I,<)i Uwoii'l. . I.t. Grccly. . I'cinhilum Tiers. Jtiilli Till). ( liiiiiiii'ys— ilinililo. , ])csk. [AuR., , Liuldri' to (iiirrct. , ('hldllOKTUI)!! mill AlKMUOIUPtlT ]!(ristor. . ('Iiri)iiimi('t(>rs. , Canvas iuMit ions. . Coal ]'('ii. . Cooking'' Kaiifrc Ilcatinj,' Stove. .Tables. •.AVaterTaiik. rice 'Wall in 'Winter. Plan of House at Fort Conger. .V ((/(-, \ii/eclliil/ie iiif/i. i. > [I . 1 \ 1 I; 1 1H81.] 1"(»IIT CONMUOU. Itl Tho iiccompiU'viiig plan h1i()\v.s the gcuionil arniiigciuciit of llii; liouso aiul tlio location of tho partv. Jt will bu ohscrvcil that the Imth-room abutted against tho chininovf*, bo that this iiidis- j)ensable adjunct of an Arctic Iiouse Mas always comfortable i'or persons \ising it. An tixcollent bath-tub was made, which was ill freijut'iit n>e ; the onlcr I'etpiiiiiig complete ablutions weekly beiiiij; nccessarv only as a nuitter of form. The only comparatively level pai't of tin! country was that in the iuMuediate lu'ighborhood of the house. The Ituilding was conveniently and pleasantly sitiuiteil witiiin thirty yards of the water's edge on a snudl tableland between two brooks, whicii for a I'ew mouths in the year ran into the sea. To the southward, along the steep shore to Dutch Island, which was about two miles distant, and at the very entrance of the liarbor, rose up abruptly a higii bill, whose elevation was over lifteen hundred feet. It was called Cairn Hill from the cairn established by the English. To the eastward a (•om[)aratively low valley stretched, separat- ing Caii'u Hill from Mount Cartmel, which, some two tliousand feet high, was to the northwe.stward of the station. The valley separating ^[uunt (artmel and Cairn Hill led np to a gentle divide, through which AVater-course Creek and tht; coal nniu', .Mjuie four nules distant, were reached, over a country which, though alfording tlu^ best travel of the neighborhood, Mas an exceedingly rough one. Directly to the northward was a sharp break in the high cliffs, mIucIi was known as tlii! north valley. Through that opening rose to view, some live juili's distant from the sea, an elevation of nearly three thousand feet, the Hogback. It received its luime from the gently curving outlines of its sum- nut, the connnon form of most hill-to])s in Grinnell Land; many of which will be mentioned lati'r under that iieneric name. TWT •i 1 , 1 1 i I 1 i 1 I if, j 03 TIIIIKK YKAKS OV AUCTIO .SKUVK'K [Auf. To tlio nortliwx'st, iihimt ji iiiilo iliwUmt, tMiii>tii'lu!i<:o(l (lowmvanl in tho distaiico of a mile over fourteen liinidred feet tln-ough a bare cleft in the solid roek. This creek drained tlin upper plateau around the Sugar Loaf, a pointed elevation of eighteen hundred feet. 18H1.J VOU'V CONdKll. 03 From ("iiscadi! Kiivino westward ti) Freiicli Capo, f(tr a dis- taiico of ttMi miles, clifTs from fourteen liuiidied to twt) tlioiisaiid foot rose so nearly iicrpendicular fnmi tlie harbor that they M'erc inatrossiblc, except possibly at one or two places. About live miles west of the station these clilTs turn sharply to the northward, makiiiL; a larj^o indentation, which is known as ]^Iusk-ox i'ay, into which drained, throunh a break in the clilTs, a scries of fresh-water lakes, the largest of which was named by the l']n<:;lish expcMlition Alexandi'a, after the Princess of Wales. On the western entrance of Musk-ox Hay ^Fouiit Ovibus raises its snow-capped head over two thousand feet. To the northward of l-'rench Cape a narrow ravin*' breaks into the high clilTs, which there are neaily two thou i.id feet in height. I'eyond that cape a bay three miles long . ^y a mile wide, which was temporarily called I'asil Xorris I brought one at its western shore to the only extensive lowland in that vicinity. A gentle slope to the south carries you over a bench of low elevation to Sun I'ay. To the northward a bntad valley about two miles wide, known as the ]')ellows, gradually narrow- ing, extends some twenty miles into the interior. Nearly parallel to the Uellows, with a slightly more westerly cour.se, Dlack Rock vale similarly extends some twenty miles to the westward, nntil it reaches a narrow " diviy 'P IS a thick, Icatherv sid)stanc(\ the surface of which is covered an inch or more with a moi>t, saline etllorescence. l^'autiful to the eye, but which binds and impedes the passage of a sledge nmch the sanu; as wet sand checks the movement of an eiitrine on the rail Tl lis substance coiiiicalini;- onlv at verv low ti'in- pcratnrcs, melts and alur ates the foot-iicar of the traveller! In addition, a light coating of snow frequentlv conceals thin, young ice wlum the serious danger of its breaking umler the sledge, aud the conse<]uent imniersion of the whole party is . 3 'n| nm n it SI 96 TIIREK YEA15.S OF ARCTIC SERVICE. [Aug., encountered. In autuinn tcuipeniturcs the travelling-gear ol" a man once wet, the chances of dangerous frost-bites and disaster lai'gely increase. It is sound doctrine that autunui sledging should be carefully planned, attempted with great caution, and never pushed to great distances. On August 21)th Lieutenant Lockwood was sent, with two men on foot and with packs, to ascoi'tain the practicability of inland travel to and around St. Patrick I'av. He was ijone but two days, during which time he was fortunate enough to kill a nuisk- ox, and unfortunate enough to freeze one of his feet. The temperature at that time was about 25° (-3.0° C), but travelling through occasional pools dampened his foot-gear and frosted his iviot without his knowledge. St. Patrick Bay was found to be fringed with precipitins cliffs of nearly a thousand feet .n ele- vation, Avhich were broken only by a nai'row valley at the very head of the bay itself. Occasionally a narrow ravine woi'n by the summer streams was found, up or down whicli an unencum- bered traveller could pass with great ditficulty. This result "vvas somewhat of a disappointment to me, as I had at that time a small depot of provisions on a wheeled con- veyance, which were to be cached for travelling parties at the most practicable crossing. These articles were left at the head of the bay, and later in the month were removed to Cape Murchi- son. In the early days of October Lieutenant l>ockwo(i(l made a second journey in the same direction, and spent a few days in exploring the valley which extends northward from the head of 8t. Patrick Pay. A mile and a half wide at its entrance, it reached some six miles to the noi-thwest, where the lower level <:^ the valley terminated, but a narro'v ravine enclosing a river- bed still continued several miles farther toward the north. The valle\' through its whole extent was hennned in by precipitous 1881.] AUTUMN SLEDGING. 97 bluffs of groat elevation, rarely brolcen by steep, narrow ravines on either side. To the left a narrow gorge broke into the val- ley, which subsequent explorations two years later showed con- clusively to be the main valley, through which drains the greater part of the Avater which flows into St. Patrick Bay. Of the valley proper Lieutenant Lockwood says : " It has two levels, that of the stream, and a second of level mesa-lands from fifty to a hundred feet above the general level. These mesa- levels seem to be washings from the lofty sides of the valley, and project first on one side and then on the other, like the mud flats of a river. A narrow gorge, the river-bed, illustrates glacial action at some past period, the rocky sides being deeply worn and grooved." In connection with subsequent similar discoveries, I entertain no doubt that within a i-easonably remote period this valley was below the level of the sea, and the glacial ice-cap now with- drawn far from the sea discharged by an offshoot into St. Patrick Pay, and during the gradual retreat of the ice alternate beaches naturally formed from deposits of the muddy stream, as in many other rivers. Ou August 30th I sent the surgeon. Dr. Octave Pavy, and Sergeant llice, the photugra})her of theexpedititm, on an over- land trip northward. Their instructions recpiired them to proceed as fur as practicable toward Cape Joseph Henry, searching care- fully on the way for traces of the missing steamer .Teamiette. In addition, they were to examine the condition of the English depot at Lincoln Bay, and I'eport on the practicability of autumn and spring travelling by sledge along the Grinnell Land coast to the northward. They travelled with packs, carrying a dog-tent, blankets, and sufficient provisions to last them as far as the English dejiot, where their sujiplies could be renewed. They struck across the country from Conger nearly in a straight lino } r i ' ' 1 i |i i\ (i Ml i ' M A > ,^im r ilM 'i ^f^n i i '11 P8 TIIHEE YKARS OF AKCTIC SEUVIOE. [Aug., to the head cf St. Patrick Bay, and thence by a direct course to Mount Beaufort, near Cape Eeechy, where they saw numerous traces of niusk-cattle and foxes. Their route from Shift-rudder Bay to Wrangel Bay was through inland valleys, which were separated at their head by a narrow water-shed of some fifteen hundred feet in elevation. In these valleys were found a number of snuxll lakes, in one of which Sergeant Rice saw a small fish some six or eight inches long. The depot at Lincoln Bay was missed in going north- ward. On September 3d Cape Union was reached, where, at an elevation of one thousand feet, I3r. Pavy found "an horizon as clear as can be possible to find." In Itobeson Chamiel the ice was packed closely to the Greenland coast, while to the north the sea was covered with level ice, broken in occasional places by water-spaces. On the Grinuell Land side a broad channel of open water, two miles wide at Cape Union, stretched as far northward as eye could reach. Ileturning southward, Lincoln Bay was reached, and the depot discovered in generally bad order. The packages were strewn around in disorder, and apparently several which could not be found had been blown over the high cliffs by a violent wind. Nearly a thousand rations of Australian beef, cui-ry paste, onion powder, and matches were in perfect condition, as also six Inmdred rations of stearine. A defective bung had caused the loss of all but a few gallons of the rum. A small (piaiitity of tobacco, chocolate, and sugar were good, the rest having be- come mouldy ; the tea, sugar, and salt had suffered from damp- ness, while the potatoes and bread were spoiled by mould. Water-tight cases of very light tin should be used in protect- ing stores thus cached. I'articular attention should be given to the tightness of bungs, and to securing casks containing liquids t' : pi h'l ■ \ . T im [L 1881.] AUTUMN SLEDOINO. 99 SO that none can bo lost. Of five tlepota examined by my ex- ])edition, there was no case where there was not a poition, and generally a very large portion, of the nun and alcohol lost by lack of proper attention in this respect. Snch of the small stores as were serviceable were repacked in one cask, and all of these supplies were of great benefit the suc- ceeding spring, when a party was sent northward over the Polar Sea. At Lincoln Bay a hare was killed by Sergeant Ilice, and Dr. Pavy found at the head of the bay coal similar to that of the mine in AVater-course llavine. Sergeant llice, who had broken through the young ice and saturated his foot-gear on his way north, was disabled while at Lincoln Pay by an attack of acute rheumatism. His sufferings were intense, and every step caused agonizing pain in his feet, but his indomitable pluck and gr(,>at enduring powers enabled him, with the judicious aid of Dr. I'avy, to proceed slowly homeward. Arriving at the valley near the head of St. Patrick Pay, he was unable to go farther. Light snow had fallen diu'ing the march, and the temperature had fallen to 17° (-8.3' C). The doctor then erected the tent, and, making him as comfortable as possible, returned to the station for assistance, reaching Conger at 4 a.m. of September 9th. I inunediately sent Sergeant Prainard, with hot coffee and food, a bottle of Sauterne wine, and the needful medicines, to make him comfortable })endiug relief ; three hours later a ])arty of four followed, with sled and an improvised stretcher. The sled could be taken only as far as the top of the precipitous clifi's overlooking St. Patrick Pay, and it was necessary to trans- port him several miles to reach that point. Later six additional men were sent, as the original party were iniable to bring him up the steep cliffs, and with tliem a buft'alo-robe to make a warm and more comfortable stretcher. 1lf1 1 11 1 1 ■ » ! ' M I ^ :?»" i' W i> li t 100 TIIUEE YKARS OF AIICTIC SEUVICK. [Sept., AVhilc awaiting additional assistance, tho first party carefully examined the cliffs for several miles for some ravine of gen- tle slope, but none could bo seen. In the search, however, Privates Connell and Frederik found a large coniferous tree on the beach just above extreme high water-mark. It was about thirty inches in circumference, some thirty feet long, and had apparently been carried to that jjoint by a current within a cou]ile of years. A portion of it n-as cut up for firewood, and for the first time in that valley a bright, cheery camp-fire gave com- fort to man. Eventually the party reached C'onger shortly after midniglit ; none too soon, as the temperature had fallen to S'^ (-13.3° C), and a northerly storm followed a few hours later. Sergeant Ilice recovered rapidly, and ten days later was in tho field. "While suffering from this attack he had travelled fifty- five hours in tliree days, and when relieved could scarcely move a limb ; his suffering was so great during' this trip that he lost twenty-four pounds in weight. It is unnecessary to say that no traces of the Jeannctte were fomid, as that mifortunate ship had suidc three months before. On the very day of Dr. I'avy's return, the gallant I)e Long was camped on the opjiosite side of the Arctic Circle on one of tho new Siberian Islands, with only a week's provisions, but cour- ageously hoping, " witli God's aid, to reach the settlements on the Lena Iliver." During Dr. Pavy's absence the fortunate opening of the straits had enabled me to establish a large supply-dei)ot near Cape r>eechy. On August oOth Ilobeson Channel had cleared wonderfully of ice, and I decided immediately on sending a boat-party northward. Unfortunately our steam-launch was cut off by heavy ice from the open water, and the use of the whale- boat was necessary. Sergeant IJrainard, my orderly and commissary-sergeant, was '•1 1 1881.] AUTUMN SLEDOINO. 101 selected for this important work, in consequence of Lieutenant Lockwood's temporary diriubility from a superficial frost-bite. Kearly two thousand ])ounds of jirovisions, fuel, bedding, and other necessary field-supplies were transported to the whale- boat over the harbor-floe, not without difficulty and danger, owing to the rotten condition of the 3'oung ice. Jewell, Cross, Salor, and Connell were detailed as the crew. They left on tlie morning of the 31st, and moved northward under great difficulty, consequent on the violent currents in the vicinity of Distant Cape, which frequently threatened to injure the boat through the small floes, and later drove them for a short time to the shore at Capo Murchison for safety. The falling temperature caused new ice to form rajiidly in ISt. Patrick Bay, and it was crossed only with gi-eat difficulty. They succeeded in reaching Cape Beechy on September 1st, but grounded floebergs, with the great height and crowded con- dition of the ice-foot, rendered a landing at the cape impossible; and, owing to the threatening appearance of the pack. Sergeant Ihainard gave way a short distance to the southward. They landed the stores and haided up the boat through a break in the ice-foot about two miles from the cape, near the base of !Mount Beaufort. A northwest gale setting in filled liobeson Channel with heavy ice from the I'olar Ocean, and precluded any innnediate chance of returning by boat. In consecpience they securely cached the boat, jntched the tent, in which the provisions were stored, and i-eturned t)verland to l''ort Conger, which was reached on the 3d. During their absence the new ice in St. Patrick Bay had increased with such rapidity that it was sufficiently strong to admit of their crossing it. I'rivate Connell killed a fiord-seal at Cape ^lurchison, which was secured and cached muler the boat. Although the temj)eraturc only fell to 10.5^ I , . I , I i. > ' Tf i ^mm. mmmmm ' I ; I 1 1 1 i; i \ ■ \ 1 ) 102 THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE. [Sept., (-7° C), yet the strong wiiuls with moist air caused the party to suffer much more from cold than they did the following spring when exposed to temperatures in dry calm air much below zero (-18° C). Sergeant Jirainurd developed in this trip the (jualities of prudence, energy, and sound judgment which ever characterized his service with the expedition. Sei'geant Gardiner and Corporal Salor, a few days later, ex- amined the foot-hills of St. Patrick J 'ay, to see how far west- ward from Cape Murchison they would he practicable for loaded sledges. In connection with Sergeant Gardiner's report, which showed the impracticability of loaded sledges following the coast for more than a mile beyond Capo Mni'chison, 1 de- cided to establish a depot at the point where a party travelling northward would leave the coast, and so removed, through Sergeant Lymi and party, a small depot previously located at the head of the bay. The depot thus established near Cape Murchison was known as Depot " A.'' During these trijis Sergeant Gardiner found on the shore of Sr. Patrick JJay an eight-man sledge, pickaxe, cooking-lami), and u twelve-foot cedar boat with paddles. These articles needed only slight repairs to make them immediately and thoroughly eerviceable. They had evidently been abandoned by sledging parties from II. M. S. Discovery in ISTO. Sergeant Lynn found on the shore of AV^ater-course 'lay a cart, evidently abandoned by the same expedition. Later, these articles, except the boat which was used elsewhere, were all brought to the station, and proved of service to us. The cart, however, was of too lieavy a pattern to bo of much practical benefit. This cart, or a part of it, was used by Lieutenant Lewis A. IJeaumont, li.X., in his attempt to reach Ilobeson Chan- nel from Discovery winter-quarters (site of Fort Conger), in !. i I 1881. AUTUMN SLEDGING. 103 October, 1875. The experiences of that great Arctic traveller, Sir Edward Parry, were sufficiently fortunate to justify the opinion that for overland travel a sledge may well be replaced by a cart. Lieutenant IJeauniont in attempting to carry out his opinion, sustained by so sound an authority, was unfortunate in having so heavy a vehicle. I thoroughly concur with hini in the opinion that overlaTid travelling, in CJrinnell Land at least, can bo better done by cart than sledge, and that I so held in 1881 contributetl in a marked degree to my successful journey into the interior of that country in the sununer of 1882. On Se])tembcr 7th, the harbor-floe l)cing fit for sledge travel, I decided to visit the entrance to the JjcHows, a valley which was situated some fit'teen miles southwest of the station at the extreme point of Di.scovory Harbor, which I temporarily named r)asil Xorriri IJay. The Dellows Valley received its name from the otlicers of the English expedition of 1875, on account of the iiigh and constant winds which were always experienced in it. It is separated from I>lack Uock Vale to the westward by a high, peculiarly shaped bluff called Bifurcation Cape. I was accom- panied by Lieutenant Kislingbury, and Sergeants IJrainard and lialston, with Eskimo .Fens as a dog-driver. Excellent ice for the sledge was fallen in with, and the trip was made in about three hours, notwithstanding some delay in the centre of Basil Xorris Bay, on our discovery of ten eider-ducks in a water-space sui'roundiiig a pala'ociTstic floe. They were evidently two females, with their full-grown broods, which, incautiously delaying their migration to the southward, the sudden advent of winter had caught and detained. The young ones were killed with pikestaft", but the older ones flew away some distance after being driven from the water, and were killed by Lieutenant Kislingbmy with his rifle. On nearing the shore Sergeant lialston discovered a herd of f" If 1 I i 104 TlIItKK YEAKS OF AUC'TIC SKRVICK. [Sept., I |. I fourteen nmsk-cattle, which were quiotly ur labors, and the steel runners were worn throu";li by rochs nrotrndin*; from the snow. At tho water's edi:e a lariTo n.miber of pieces of drift-wood wore found near or slightly above the high-water mark. Some of the pieces were six or seven feet long, and from four to eight inches in diameter. Nearly all were coniferous woods. We cached a portion of ^>\\v provisions for the nse of future parties, and struck out across the barbor-tloe, which we were able to reach over the ice-foot oidy with ditRculty, owing to tho high stage of the tide and consc([uent pools of water ah>ng the tidal crack. On September Uth. Lieutenant Lockwood's frosted footbeinj; well, acconi])anied by Christiansen ami Sergeant (iardiner, he was sent with dog-sledge to explore the IJellows, and was to bring back as much of the nmsk-meat as could be hauled to the water's edge, lie returneil on tlu; l.'lth, liaviug gone about twelve miles beyoml the point reached by Lieuti'Mant Archer, R.X., anellows appears to be "• .V broad valley, probably two or three miles wide and ([uite level, walled in by high and steep (fliffsand mountains. Its ((j>pareiit ternun: tion i.-. proI)ably seventeen miles distant, and hears \. 34:'' AV." From the apparent end the valley was followed some six miles, turning first iiorth and then about northwest, and ra{)idly narrowing from a mile to w i'ew hundred yai'ds in width. '' Through the gap at the end of the valley," says Lieu- 1881.] AUTTMX SLKOCilNO. 107 tenant Loclcwood, " I conld sec one high peak covered with snow, lie liiid t'.ic r.n,nie difficult experience witli the sledge, while travelling up the valley, as liad been encountered by our Eng- lish predecessors. The level gi'ound was but scantily covered with snow, and the sharp, flinty stones and I'.ard substances which formed the bed of the v.dley rendered travelling exceedingly Entrance to Bellows Valley, October, 1881. [Xdrllii'dsh'fr. Siilc, ihiii' IHeak Vai>e.\ difficult, and (piite wore out the steel shoes of the ruiniers. The last portion of his outward trip was necessarily made on foot. lie found between 15Iack Cape and Devil's Ilick a considerable (piantity of lignite coal in small pieces, but was unable to dis- cover the seam from which it came. It is evident that this coal was JiUcwise seen by Lieutenant Aivher, U.X., who ''found the valley to consist of . . , shingle, . , . mixetl with m $' i '1 I i ' 108 TIIKEE YEAKS OF AIICTIO SEUVICE. [Sept., sonic substanco very luucli like charcoal.'" Tiie coal in every way resembled that which came from the ravine near Water- course Day. One of the interesting results of this trij) was the discovery of a large piece of knotty pine, three feet long and eight inches in diameter, frozen in tlic eai'tli in the bed of the valley, two miles or more from lUack Cape, at an elevation above the sea of nearly one hundred and fifty feet. Two musk-cattle were seen by Lieutenant Lockwood near the head of the valley, but, in accordance with his orders, they were not killed. A'egeta- tion, though scanty in niaiiy places, was yet sufficient in the whole valley for large hci'ds of musk-oxen. The highest point of the valley-bed above the sea was about six hundred feet. The temperature was low during the whole trip, sinking to 1° (-17.2'' C.) on September l-'Uli, and, with the constant wind, which gave the Bellows its name, made the trip a trying one. On September lath 1 concluded that the new ice in Archer Fiord must be sufficiently strong for travelling, and with its ex- cellent condition as seen by me a few days before I hoped that a party could reach Beatrix I'ay in a couple of days' travel, and thus make an attempt to cross the (irrinncll Land coast to the westward, or at any rate establish, for the use of a future party, a cache at the farthest i)oint reached. ])r. Tavy being very desirous of making the trip, he was sent with Private Whisler, Eskimo Jens, and two sledges. He returned the following day, with the information that the late storm had broken up the new ice in Archer Fiord, and that it had been impossible for him to pass around llocky Cape. J le cached his provisions on the shore of Sun Bay, and, visiting the slaughtered musk-cattle, brought to the station about five hmidred pounds of meat. Septendjer lUth, with Seigeant Brainard and Private Bend- I 1881.] AUTUMN SLEDGING. 109 cr, I starterl on a three days' inland journey toward the north- west, in the hope of learning sometliing of tlie physical condi- tions of the interior of Grinnell J.and. My knee, injured the week before, was not suthcieiitly I'ocovered to enable nio to make the journey, and I was obliged to send in my place Pri- vate Council who had accumpanied us a few miles. The party succeeded in penetrating some twenty-tive miles to the north- west, whero they reached a high '' divide," from which they had reason to believe water drained to the westward. A heavy snow-storm springing up prevented uiy views to the westward, and obliged them to return to the station. This journey was made on foot, the sleeping-bag, food, and cooking apparatus be- ing carried in packs. Although the ice of Discovery Harbor, composed of old floes cemented by young ice, was |)racticablo for sleilging early in September, it was not until the end o£ the month that the sea around J )istant Cape was sufficiently frozen to be passable for sledges. The heavy tides and strong currents which 'prevailed off that point caused ice to foi-m late in the autumn, and to break up at an equally early date in tlie spring. This proved unfortu- nate for us, as I had hoped to obtain for use at the station an ad- ditional supply of coal from the mine in ^Vater-course llavine, which, difficult of access overland, could bo reached by sledges over an easy route around Dutch Island and Distant Ca])o. On Se))tendjer 20th I examined the ice aroinid that cape, and found that by crossing the extreme point ovt'rlaiid, and liy using the axe freely, a sledge could be got by the open water at the point of the Cai>e. The following day I sent Dr. Paw and Jens with sledge and seven hundred jiounds of provisions to be taken to Cape Murchison. lie returneil, unable to pass Distant Cape, but later in the day, with Sergeants Drainard and Rice, I got the sled around the Cape ; a nnnier breaking in Watercourse i.i >' I* f I I 1 ) 1 1 1 i 110 THREE YEARS OF AlICTIC SEUVICE. [Sept., 15ay, tlio supplies were not moved to the north side of St. I'litiick Jjiiy until the next day, by Sergeant Hrainard. Lieutenant Lockwood, with five men, started, September 24th, to add stores to De])ot " B '' (Cape ]>eeehy). The eight-man sledge was used, and the l)arty, hauling about one hundred and fifty pounds to the num, made the outward journey, some twenty- eight miles, in two days. Sergeant Rice followed them with a dog-sledge with additional sup])lies. Lieutenant Loekwood's trip resulted most satisfactorily, in adding important supplies to Depot " 13," aud in giving him valuul)le experience in sledg- ing work. During the absence of the party the average tem- perature was -2'^ (-19° C), and one observation was as low as -lO.ir" (-23.S° C). Despite the severe spell of autumn cold, the work was done without disaster or material suffering. Lieutenant Lockwood, in returning from De])ot "E," brought from near the head of St. Patrick IJay a section of a lai'ge conif- erous tree, ])robably ])ine. This section, from the centre, was nine and one-half inches iii diameter. The tree as found was a fiuooth, perfect bole, unworked and but little worn bv tidal action. It was in the same j)osition, just above tide-water, as when first seen by Connell and Christiansen, September J)th. Dr. f*avy believing sledgo travelling practicable along the Grinnell I.,and coast, and expressing his confidence of reaching the vicinity of Cape Joseph llemy, I determined to send him again northward. On this occasit)n he was to be accompanied by Private "Whisler, and use the two dog-teams of the expedi- tion, driving one him.self, while the other was to be under the skilful jiianagement of Eskimo Jens. His orders required them t.o leave September 30th, but, much to Dr. Pavy's disappointment, I postponed his departure, not deeming it prudc.t to send a party into the field in the face of a driving snow-scorm at a temperature of zero, Fahrenheit. B 1881.] AUTUMN SLEDGING. Ill lie left Octoboi 2d, with instructions to proceed to Cape Joseph lleniy, searcliing en route lor drift-wood or othor traces of the Jeannette. In atldition to this work, he svas also directed to lay out along the Grinnell Land coast such depots of jirovi- sions as would facilitate spring travel in that dii-ection. lie took certain supplies from the home station, and was authorized to add the balance from L)epot " I>." To the northward of Cape Eeechy the party found a narrow, broken ice-foot, which was covered i'.i many places by floebergs and heavy pack-ice forced up by the violence of late storms. Farther north the ice-foot was found to have been broken up by the sea in some jilaces, and, becoming worse and worse, finallv failed alto<>;ether, as it had not vet formed for the winter. It was conse(piently necessary to turn back at the southern ter- mination of the Black (Miffs, to the south of AVrangel Bay. The ice to the eastward, in Robeson Channel, was reported by Dr. Pavy to consist of quantities of rubble cemented by new ice, and occasioiuilly broken in by small lanes of water, the presence of which rendered a passage around Black Cliff's over the soa- ice utterly impossible. Dr. Pavy then returned to De])ot "B,"' and attempted an inland passage to the westward of ]\[ount Beaufort. He eventually foimd connecting valleys, which en- abled him with difficulty, owing to the scanty amount of snow on the ground, to reach AVrangel Bay, by passing over the low " divide " which so[)arated the valleys at an altitude of about seventeen hundred feet above the sea. "While crossing the " divide " into the bay, two ptarmigan were seen, one of which Eskimo Jens killed with his revolvei'. Although these birds are without doubt permanent habitants ut" Grinnell Land, and traces were seen later in the season, yet but one other covey of them was seen until spring. The natural coloring, which has been vouchsafed in such a remark- i, il ': I ■'71 I li ) 112 TIIUEK YKAllS OF AUCTIC SKUVICE. [Oct., able degree to the rock-ptarmigan, renders it nearly impossible to see them, except by acute observation iind in very close proximity. Dr. Pavy pushed northward <^hrough Wrangel ]>ay, linding the narrow ice-foot of the same bn^l^en and difficult character as that below, lie eventually reached with bis man a point near Mount Parry, where lie cached a hundred and fifty pounds of pemmican and fifty pounds of bread. Lack of ice-foot fai'ther and the open condition of the floe-ice in llobeson Channel pre- vented advance beyond tl at place. They were obliged to spend one night on an insecure ice-foot but a few yards in width, in ct)nstant danger on one side by falling stones from the high, jirecipitous clift's, and on the other from the effect of the lieavy gale, which, forcing huge paheocrystic fioebergs against the un- sheltered ice-foot, M'as liable at any moment to topple large over- hanging ice-blocks upon the camping party. Some alarm, which turned into amuseTuent, arose from "Whis- ler being attacked by " nightmare," which caused him to be- lieve that the ice-foot, with tent, was being carried into the straits, and to rush with fright from his slee})ing-bag and the tent, awaken intr and alarminij; his comrades. Dr. Pavy reached C\)nger October "Jth, convinced, from his experiences, that travelling northward along the ({rinnell Land coast was rarely ])racticable in autumn. Having made autumn trips and explorations in all other quarters, our attention wastiu'ned toward Capo Lieber, with the intention later of exploring the interior of Judge Daly Penin- sula. Kear the end of September Sergeants Brainard and Jewell made an attempt to reach Cape Baird, which proved un- successful, owing to the unsafe condition of the ice in Lady Franklin Bay. The character of the ice in that direction was exceedingly rough. It was evident that the old floe had not I'' I i . ! jfi ^i iv 1881.] AUTUMN SLEDOING. 113 been firmly united l)y young ice, but was yet liable to separate (luring heavy titles or strong winds. Lieutenant Lockwood tried the ice again unsuccessfully October Tth, but, fuiding conditions more favorable on October 10th, established a small dci)ot near Oape Baird for hunting or exploring parties. Sergeants l^raiiiard and Tlice were at the same time engaged in obtaining ])hotographs of the country ad- joining the J'ellows, and in bringing in the musk-cattle killed and cached near the entrance to that valley. In both these trips the Hudson iJay sledge, constnicted by our carpenters, Elison and Cross, did excellent service. Jjieutenant l^ockwood reported the sledge as satisfactory, and Sergeant Rice said that the work devolving on his i>arty could have been done by no other sledge. These trips closed what I have considered as autumn sledg- ing, and others later are ti-cated as winter work. Autumn went and winter canie with the departure, for four and a half months, of the sun. The beginning of the long Arctic night found the party in excellent health and spirits, and with firm faith and conlidence in their ability to meet the hard- ships of the next season, and to improve in the coming spring on the (pjantity and quality of their sledging work. Our autumn labors, as regarded the Grinnell Land coast, had been successful beyond my anticipations. Four depots had been established to the northward, the condition of the stores at Lincoln Bay ascertained, points previor.sly unknown reached toward the interior, over three tons of fresh meat obtained by the hunt, and much valuable and practical information gained as to the physical character of the country, and as to other con- ditions bearing on field-work in that region. Li ac(piiring a practical knowledge of sledging in such high latitudes, and under trying conditions common to all autumn ■| ' ii' i: \ I •ym 114 TIIRKE YEMIS OF AUCTIO SEllVICE. work, it was gr.itifyiiiij; that no accidout or disaster liad oc- curred. >;ot the least bonelit resulting from tliis experience was tlie development of minor, but none the less important, defects in our sledging-gear and the manner in wliicli the wm-k Avas conducted. Kowliere more than in Arctic sledging do widely varying and quickly changing conditions demand greater sliilts and expedients to insure moderate or complete success. > ' . - CllArTEll X. STTNLKiUT TO DAUKNIOSS. /^ril life at tlio station durinii; tlii.s time was by im moans devoid vii iiiteiTst. Tho coinplotiou of tlio lioiise, tlie placing of our sciciitilic instruments, tlie coiistrnctioii of meteor- ological, astronomical, and magnetic observatories bad ke])t our carpenter force bns\' for many weeks, and until tbe middle id" September no one bad scarce a breatbing spell. Tbe birds bad generally disai)]ieareil before tbe rroteus de- parted, and such game as Avas in our innnediate neigbboibodd bad ])een Becure(l. Twenty-six musk-oxen, ten ducks, a bare, two seal, and a })tarmigan rewarded our bunter's efforts during September and October, wbicb afforded about .'-ix tbousaiid pounds of fresh meat for tbe ]iarty, and nearly an eipial amount of offal for our dogs. I-ieutenant Kislinn'bui-v bunted assiduously in tbe innnediate Hi no TIIltKE YEAUS OK AUCTir aKRVK'K. [Sept., noigliborliooil from the oiul of Aui^ust, but no game was to bo found. The only visiblo lift) notcil by him at that time wero spiders, mosijuitoes, ilies, caterpillars, motlis, and " daddy long- legs" on the hills, and a few chubs and minnow in Lake xVlex- andra. The mos(juitocs, numorous and troublesome at the Clrcenland ports, wore fortuiuitely few. The severe temperatures in August (as low as ir).0° or -d.V C was noted) covered the sea with ice, dried up our running brooks, drove southward the migratory birds, and played sad havoc with the vegetation. The gay, yellow poppies were cut down, but other hardy flowers, purple and snowy saxifrages ami the white daisy, flourished during the early days of September. The summer birds had gone the middle of August — an unusu- ally early date, as Lieuteiumt Aldrich on September 10, 1875, saw a tlock of turnstone on this coast nearly seventy miles to the northward. The fabled instinct of the feathery tribe to foretell a sevei'c season was not needed to explain their depart- ure, which resulteil from the frost cutting off their suj)ply of food. I was somewhat surprised to learn, on September .'id, that the shallow ponds, to which the dried-up creeks drove us for water, were full of animalcuhe of considerable size. The water was strained for a few days, but as otherwise inexi)licablo lieadaches and nausea occurred among some of the men, I had recourse for cooking- and drinking-water to ice obtained from the palieo- crystic floes in the harbor. The first signs of the ccjming polar night were noted on the evening of September !»th, when a grateful change to the eyes came, with a bright moon and the sight of a star of the first magnitude. While the mental irritation and depression conse- quent on the Arctic night ai'e not experienced during the polar day, yet the latter has disadvantages. In some a marked ten- V; r ( ,1 i 1 0«s 1 1881.] RUNLIOIIT TO DARKNESS. 117 (leiicy to sleeplessness developed, and even the most nietliodieal fell into irregular hours and habits, unless routine was imposed on them. •September Cth was marked by Jens killing a fiord seal {Phova hisj)lihi), and l)y Lieutenant Lockwood making a trip over the liarbor-lloe to JJellot Island, the ice being strong and firm the whole distance. Although wc had passed far beyond the confines oi' civiliza- tion, yet the sameotticial routine was necessary in many respects as in lower latitudes. On the lOth of the month IVivate Julius l"'rederick was formally discharged from service for expiration of term of enlistment and as forirudly re-enlisted on the follow- ing day. Sergeant Brainard's discharge and re-enlistment fol- lowed in a like manner a few days later. On September 10th a heavy northerly gale occurred, which, in conjunction with the position of the moon, caused an un- usually high tide. Advantage was taken of these circumstances to cut the launch Lady (Jreoly out of the ice, and haul her np inside of the ice-foot. With the whole force we finally suc- ceeded in getting her to a point where, at the extreme h-igh tide, there was less than a foot of water under her keel. She remained in that condition, undisturbed by the winter gales or the moving ice-foot, until launched again the ensuing sum- mer. Our nsual psalms on the 11th were supplemented by prayer for those who travel, a practice regularly followed whenever sleilge parties were in the field. Much surprise and excitement was caused, September 13th, by the appearance of a large band of wolves upon the harbor- floe near the house. Their gaunt, slight forms showed np in a remarkable nuinner as the light fog, which at that time covered the country to the westward, magnified greatly their ■ !■ 118 TIIKKE YKAIJS OF AUCrrK.' HKUVKnO. lOot., 'f r in M 1 ,! ; - , ^iwi^: ,(|f 1?' kIzo, and fioiiiu of tliciii appeaixul to bo ha lar^o as vnarliiig Tliii'tecii to ciglitucn were counted in tho pack. While they showed no signs of timidity, yet they were very careful to keep a proper and discreet distance, and none of our hiniters were ible to get within gun-shot. This caution, while in keeping witli tlio general habits of tho Arctic wolf, which has been rarely killed by hunters, seems surprising, when we retlect that these aninuils could never have been hunted, and doubtless had never seen anything but a bear wliich could injure them. Tho tenacity >vlth which Arctic animals hold to life was fre- ({uently instanced in our experiences, and it occurred to me whether it did not arise from the survival of the strongest and hardiest in a clime wliere natin-e ever seems at strife with nature's life. A few days later Lieutenant Kislingbury and Private Henry while hunting ran across a small pack of wolves, (if which they shot two, but Iwth escaped. The ball from Henry's riHc went completely through tho body of one of tho animals, which bled profusely. The wolf was closely ft)llowed l>y its bloody trail for several hours, but could not be caught. September 2()th a wolf came within a hundred yards of the house, and in the early twilight was for a time mistaken for ono of the dogs, lie was eventually pursued by Lieutenant Kisling- l)ury and several men, and was shot through tho body by that officer. The wolf, knocked down by the ball, lost at least a cup- ful of blood, and afterward continued to lose it steadily, lie * Thisexag'gor.^Moii » rt vv»'U Ulustratod V)y an incident in Frank- lin's iiucon itu, 1 it patience and caution, had succeeded in stealing ouu' i nd v > ingratulating themselves on their good fortune in gi ni,' withi' ,unshot, when to tlieir auiaz^nient and annoyance, the animals took to wi , auil by cackle and scream left no further doubt as to llieir identity as geese. 1 1S81.J SUXLiailT TO DAIJKNESS. Ill) was chiiHcd for soiiio time witliout any one getting again within gun-Hhot. He wuH let alone for a time in the hope that ho would (lie, 1111(1 pursued by the hunters later, travelled oji, leav- ing drops of blood on the snow, until he fell down dead, with his body suihstantially bloodless. Disturbed by the j)ro.\innty of such a pack, and fearing for tho safety of our dogs, which showed terror and dismay at the approach of tho wolves, I decided to destroy them by j)oison. They showed, with the foxes, much craft and caution in ap- proaching tho poisoned meat, aiul would touch none, though several poisons were tried, until good was mixed with the poi- sonous meat. Even then they avoided it at times. Lieutenant Ivislingbury reported that on one occasion the meat was visited by foxes, who ate all the good meat and left untouched that which containud poison. Eventually four wolves and a fox were p(jisoned, and the rest disappeared for that season at least. Lamps wore first lighted for general use on September ICth, and the next day our bath-room, a warm, well-arranged place, was completed. The iirst birthday at Conger occurred on September ITth, that of Private AVhisler, who completed his twenty-fourth year, Tho occasion was taken to inaugurate a practice, which was in- variably follow(3d during our service at Conger, of exempting the man from duty and of allowing him to select the dinner from our entire list of dainties and provisions. In addition, a (piart of rum was given him for such disposition as he thought lit to nuike of it. The e(iuital)le disposition of it by AV^hisler among the party established a precedent which was regularly followed. The temperature fell below zero on the 20th, reaching —0.9° (—21.0° C.) during the day. This was probably the earliest 1 1 '^f' "^sam niBap ^PMIVi ,'ij ! I i I iflli .P 120 TIIUEE YEAKS OF AIM'TIC SERVICE. [Oct., autninn date on which zero, Fahrenheit (-17.8'' C), had been recorded, the earliest approximate date being that of Parry at Melville Island, ISIO, -1.1^ (-18.3° C), .September 2(;th. Occasional solar haloes were seen during the month, some of which were of very great beauty. That on th(^ lil^t was a brilliant display, which lasted for five hours. Those were parts of two concentric rings, distant 23° and 40° respectively from the dnn, which were marked by five mock suns, where the rain- bow tints were most clearly displayed. This was followed the same evening by our first auroral display — delicate, convoluted ribbons of colorless light of varying intensity, which glowed and burned a short hour south of the zenith till the gathering clouds obscured it.* The halo of the 24th was one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. It was a double halo, there being two perfect con- centric half-circles, distant 23° and 4(i° from the sun, each half-circle having a contact arch of marked clearness. Six meek suns, two on cither hand and two above the real sun, ap- peared during a part of the day, the prismatic colors in each case being as vivid and clear as in any rainbow. For the greater part of the forenoon the heavens were filled with such glory and wealth of color as surpassed any powers of description. Similar magnificent phenomena were observed by Lieutenant Lockwood and his party from Depot " 13." The ci^mparatively short distance between the observer and the phenomena is shown by various observations. At one time a considerable part of the circle of 23° w'ith its mock sun was * Tliis ribbon-like form to tlie aurora appe.ars to bi' an arctic oharactoristic. As far as I know, it was lirst uotud by Wb ymjx'r during liis Alaskan cxperi* euces, ami latur by Narea. It wasi tliy most gouoral form of all during our many am-oral displays. 1881.] SUNLIOITT TO DAnK^TESS. 121 most distinctly and dearly outlined against ('airn Hill, the background of the halo not exceeding three-fourths of a niilo in distance from the station. Captain Kares at Floeberg JJeach, noted u mock moon but two hundred and fifty yards distant. Later our astronomer, Sergeant Israel, a very reliii')le observer, observed a mock sun against our meteorological observatory, at a distanco of less than thirty yards. O'.ir first fire occurred on the22d — a largo hospital tent, pitched near the house and used as a carpenter's shop. Despite prompt efforts, the use of fire extinguishers, and plenty of water, the tent and its contents were a total loss. Fortunately we had duplicates of moL;t of the tools elsewhere. I had made it a point to scatter and divide our stores, and, though an incon- venient arrangement at times, it afforded security against ir- reparable disaster from fire. Carelessness, as usual, caused the conflagration. Early in the month a fire-hole six feet scpiaro had been opened in the harbor-floe, so water was at hand. Later a fire organization was planned, and one or two false alarms made all familiar with their ])laces and duties. Although the straits were jammed with ice, yet considerable open water remained in the neighborhood of JJistant Cape, and on September 2^ith Private Council shot a fiord seal P/ioea /lisjn'(hi), which ho was unable to obtain on account of Me ice. September closed with the entire party in excellent health. In addition to considerable meat eaten in the ilcld, nearly four hundred pounds of birds and fresh musk-meat was consumed during the nu)nth. Our stoves proved unsuitable lor the in- ferior (juality of coal, and, worse than that, burned live tons of coal monthly, nearly double the proj)cr amount. The mean temperature for Septendter was 10.02^ (—11.71° C), the lowest on record, except that of Kane at Van Ilensselaer Harbor, 1^54, which was O.Sr (-12.33"" C). The minimum. 'I ' i) 1 ; r, a!H ' I' 122 TIIllEK YEAKS OF AlICTIO SKllVTOK [Oct., — 11.9° ( — 2-1.4° C), is the lowest on record as far as my knowl- edge goes. Through the effects of this reniarkahle cold the new harbor-lloe increat^ed during the month from four and three-eightlis to fifteen inches in thickness. The last few days of sunlight were filled in Mith hunting trips and short excursions in the neighborhood of the station. The fisherineii then failed in Lake Vlexandra as the hunters by land, but game and fish wei'e to be j-ad, for fish had been seen and glimpses of game obtained. Lieutenant Kislingbury saw seven ptarmigan {La(/oj)i(s riijttsiris) on October 2J, which had replaced their summer plumage of l>lack and brown by a perfect coat of spotless white. These birds beyond doubt are winter liabitants of Cirinnell Land, but these were the last specimens seen that autunm. During the Arctic twilight they could be seen only by accident, for their plumage so resembles the color of new-fallen snow that only a keen eye can distinguish their outlines. A prowling wt»lf visited our meat-caches, and a cun- ning fox was seen near, only a few days before the sun left us for the winter. Sergeants Brainard and llice succeeded in reaching the sum- mit of ^^()unt ( )vibos, but to do so they were ()l)liged to make a long detour to the westward by way of Lake Alexandra. The lake was two hundred and sixty feet and the sunnnit of IVfount Ovibos twenty-two hundred and forty-four feet above the sea. Their labors were rewarded by the sight of a few snow-covered hogback mountains, far to the northwest. The extremely rapid approach t»f darkness is a marked chai'- acteristic of all very high latitudes. Jt will be reniend)ered that the first star at midnight was not seen by w^ until Septejn- ber yth, and yet on October Sth the use of lamps became neces- sary within doors, except for an hour at midday. ' )ur last day of possible sunlight came — October 15th. All M i/ . I 4: 1- ; ■ > ■ ' ■ , li ^ 1881.1 SUNLTOIIT TO DAnKNKSS. 123 had an uneasy, restless feeling while watching and waiting for the sun's appearance, the clouds in the south rendering it un- certain if we should be favored with its rays at the station. I visited high ground some distance to the nortliward for a better standpoint. Just after midday, my journal says, "A few rays' breaking through the clouds gilded to the north the rounded, snowy sunnnit of the Hogback (two thousand and nine hundred feet in elevation), while dense water-clouds, which rose from Kennedy Chaimel to serve as a beautiful background to the mountains of Daly Promontory, cut off all direct rays from lower ground. From time to time the brightly illumined clouds would drift slowly to the south, and as the delicate shades of pearly gray gave way to gorgeous coloring of mellow orange and fiery red, from moment to moment I hoped the curtain would roll back and the sun shine forth. Once for a few moments the red rays of refracted light lighted up the iinier harbor and outer bay. This magic touch of color, blend- ing with the snowy covering, gave a new glory to our Arctic scenery, which was further intensified and idealized by the rosy, curling columns of vapor rising in the dense, cold air from the few water-spaces." The reds faded into yellow, the pearly grays were rapidly replaced by the dull leaden hue, which told that junshine had passed and the polar day had given way to till long reign of twilight and Arctic darkness. . I s 'J .) CIlAPTKli XI. Orit SCIKNTIFIO OUSKUVATIONS. i i ;•' ! 1* i 1 \f r III IK ]>riinary object ol; (ho Lady Franklin l^'iy Expedition lieiiiii; to cany out tlic ticientilic progrannne of tlio liani- biirg I'olar Conference, the utmost care was given to physical observations. The series comnieiiced on July 1, 1881, at St, John, Newfoundland, and terniir.ated Juno 21, 1884, forty hours before tlio rescue of the survivors. Sunnuaries of these, aud such other observations as are of general interest. Mill be fouiul in the appendices of this work. To avoid tediousness and repetition, allusions are made iu the body of the narrative only to such as are of special interest or im])ortance. The observations as to the pressure oi the atnutsphere, tem- perature and dew-point of the air, direction and force of the wind, quantity, kind and movement of clouds, the aurora and the state of the weather, were made hourly after the vicinity of Fort Conger was reached. On the upward journey by vessel the temperature of the sea- water at the surface and when practicable at ten metres (32.8 feet), was noted iirst every four luiurs, and later liourly. On occasion these observations were supplemented by soimdings, with serial deep-sea temperatures by means of the Is'egretti- Zambra thermometer. After our arrival at Conger, serial sea- temperatures were recorded on the 1st, 11th and 21st of each month, at which tiuie the thickness of the sea-floe was also OUR ROIKNTIFIO OBSKllVATIONS. 125 noted. Sni'faco eea-tomperaturos were obsorvcnl the second year at every liigh and low water. Our observations were always made by AVasliington moan time, and reference to that time is invariably meant when only the hour and minute are given. To reduce to Conger mean time, it is necessary to add forty-nine minutes. The temperatures given in this narrative are corrected frt)m tests with frozen mercury, that metal being assumed to solidify at a temperature of — 37.1*° F. ( — 08.8" C). Thermometers having but veiy small errors at high temperatures required large corrections at —40" (—40° C), reading from two to five degrees too low. Some of our alcohol thermometers were so unreliable that they were never used. T could have sent these costly spirit thermometers into the field, from which actual though erroneous readings of -SO" (-()2.l3" C.) to -00° (-(17.8" C.) could have been obtained. Extremely low temperature readings, made in connection with Arctic explorations or otherwise, must be re- ceived with caution, uidess the history and accuracy of the thermometer can be vouched for. Jlonest but inexperienced obseivers, in ignorance of the true f:i"'.s have frequently misled themselves and others. Some excellent standard thermometers, of bisulphide of car- bon, pure spirits of wine, and ether, were made for the expedi- tion, under the careful supervision of Professor Waldo of Yale College ( )bservat()i'v. Tliey were graduated in millimetres arbi- trarily, and so served as an excellent check on other instruments. Their errors at freezing mercury jtroved to be inconsiderable, less than a degree Fahrenheit. Our thermometers were exposed in a large wooden shelter of Louvre pattern, four feet square and seven high, which was sit- uated about forty yards northeast of the house. The instru- ments were fastened to a sheet-iron drum, so made as to revolve. ' U ' \l ■ ] " J' f m i 'i \\ W' H 1 1 1 '■ ': • i J I 1 / i f^ > f 1' ' 126 TlIllKE YKAUS OF AIM lIC SKHVICK. whicli was pliioldi'il liy aiuitliei" sinall .shelter, made alter tliu Louvre }>atterii, of »j;aivaiii/e(l iron. Tiio aiieiiioiiieter and wind-vane were placed on tiie ridge- ])ole of tlco main l)MiIdinii', wliere the exposure was oxeellent. Observer making Temperature Observations at Fort Conger. In order to secure nxist reliable barometric readings, the observer, before making the current ol)servatioii, verified each hour the vernier reading of the preceding liour, and in case a OUU SCIKNTIFTO OMSEUVATIONS. 127 change greuter than .03 inch in the hour had occurred tlie ol)- surver reported it to me, wliether day or niglit. The sohir ami terrestrial radiation tliernionieters i'urnislied the expedition luid sucli limited range to Iheir scales, that the observations Avere necessarily discontinued at tlie most impor- tant seasons, i.e., from thti mitldie of October to March 1st. The magnetic observatory was situati'd about two liuiidrcil yards northeast of the main buiUling. It was a wootlcn structure, aliiiut eight by I'ourtiiuu i'eet in size, wliich \vas secured ami fas- tened by wooden pegs in default of copper nails. A heavy !)aiik of earth and sod to its eaves, su[>plemented by >iiowaiid ice dur- ing the winter, somewhat ameliorated its Arctic temperature, but it still remained an utu'omfortable building the iii'st y-ar. ])uring the term-days of the secoiul year, when the observers remained in it the entii'c day, it was made comfortable by the construction tif a snudl iireplace and chimiuy. The magnetometer was mounted on a stout tripod, its solidity bcinu ensured 1)V freeziiiir the le^s of the stand into the earth. Of this instrument ten readings were made hourly, except on the 1st and l.")th of each month, which were hnowii as term- days. On term-day two I'eadings weie made evei'v 1i\e niimites, except diH'ing oiu; hour, when two readings wei'e made every twenty seconds. Foi' the uninitiated it should be said, that the object of these readings was to note the declination of tlie magnetic needle. In tlie greater part of the world the compass does not point to the geographical pole, and the saying, " true as the needle to the pole," is only an inaccurate simile. The magnetic declina- tion of any place is the difference between the geographical pole and tlie (piarter to which the needle actually points, and is measured in degrees to the cast or west. For instance, where the needle points to the true west, the declination is said to be If I I \i h\ i I h i 1 I I II;! i ^ ff 128 TirUKK YKAUS OF AUCTIO SKUVICE. ; J l;l DO'' W., ami when pointinj^ to tho Bouthwest, to bo 1135° W. At Fort Coiigcr, in lS8i3, the nuignetic noccllo jiointed between the west and southwest, tho decliniition being 100° 13' \V. Jn tiie mugnetonioter a sniall magnet, freely suspended by a single fibre of untwisted silk, swings readily in any horizontal direction. Tliis magnet, at Conger, was never (juiet, not even on what are technically known as cahti days, but swung to anil fro in a restless, imcasy way, wliich at various times impressed iiie witli an uiicamiy feeling (piite foreign to my nature. As it swung to right and left, its movement was clearly outlined on a fixed, illumined, glass scale, which served as a background, and the extreme oscillations, seen through a small telescope by the obsei'ver, -were recorded. In the other etid of the buil0'^ the needle would be erect, while at Conger the inclination was about S5'\ In speaking of this instrument, it is necessary to say that a di)i-circle was especially made for tho Lady Fraidvlin I'ay Ex- pedition, l)ut it was by error shipped to the irnited States Coast JSurvey. On calling for it, when the duplicate instrument or- (k'rclricl< and I'ortland cement bad been purcliased for tlio purpose at St. John's. The site selected was in a lean-to built on the north side of the otH(!crs' room. Holes three feet square were (hig to a depth of about twenty-seven inches, the ground being found frozen at a depth varying from twenty-two to twenty-four inches. Over these holes a tent was ]>itchi'd, and alcohol lamps lighted within it to raise the temperature. On the bottom of the holes dry, liot ashes were spread, and then two courses of bricks wero laid. As the bricks had been previously heated to a tempera- ture of IT)!) , the cement formed before the temperature fell to the freezing-point. In this manner the piers were finally built in a solid, substantial manner. Around the piers a house was erected of ice-slabs, which maintained an almost constant and exceedingly uniform temperature. French plate-glass being set in the front of the ice-house, and in the door leading into the officers' I'oom, the observer was able to remain comfortably in the latti'r room, aiul by a set of reflectors throwing light on the pendulum to read its oscillations througb a telescope. Several setsof maximum and minimum thermometers were so disposed as to show the ranges of temperature at the head, the centre, and the bottom of the pendulum, and one thermometer was so placed that it c(»uld be read at any time by the telescope from the otlicers' i-f)oni. These arrangements were so successful that the range of temperature rarely exceeded live degrees Fah- rcidieit, during an entire set of observations. Forty-eight u T^TT ' \ M w $■ ^ "1 132 TIIUKK YKAKS OF AUC'IIC SllltvrcK. swings of the pciulnluin wita correspoiuling time observations were successfully made, and it is probable that these observa- tions, under Professor Pierce's skilful discussion, Mill prove of marked value to geodesy. Kear the end of November, J.SSl, the observers began to obtain samples of the air, according to instructions furnished bv Professor Edward Morlev. The samples were to have been analyzed l)y that gentleman in connection with his investiga- tion as to the variations of oxygen in the atinosjthere. Unfort- unately for his researches, the samples were necessarily aban- doned, with other bulky a) id weighty collections, on the occasion of our retreat. An. excellent series of observations as to the velocity of sound at low temperatures was obtained, which generally confirm the theoretical law as to the effect of temperature on its velocity in air, as deduced from observations at higher temperatures. These experiments are dwelt on elsewhere more in detail. Experiments were made w'th a view of comparing the actual with the theoretical dew-poim, ; and also many other special and comparative observations were made which need not be here refernid to at length. Tiie number of obscvations made and recorded each day were as follows: ^leteorological, i2.'>4 ; tidal, :i> ; magnetical, iiO-t — aggregating r)2<> daily. On term-days t..e mnnber of lUagnetical observatio'.is were increased to ovei- twelve hundred, so that the observers were always busy. Sergeant Israel had all the astronomical work, and the obser- vations of magnetic intensity to attend to, and was also in gen- eral charge of the magnetic work. Lieutenant Eockwood and i did duty as observers tm term-days. Sergeants (Ja'-dincr, Jewell, and Ivalston were particularly charged with meteoro- logical and tidal work, being occasionally assisted by Sergeant mm OUR RCIKXTIFIC or.SKlIVA'lIONi!. 133 Israel and I'l'ivato Henry. Suriicant Kico, the second year, noted tliu liiyli and low tides and tiea-teinperatures, being at times relieved by I'rivate J.oiii;;. Private ("onnell likewise assisted at times in niakini; nieteorok)gical observations, and dm'ing all pendulum, time, and sound, expei'iments Mas in cliariTO ol the clii'dnoii'i'aiili. The rrog. 1.1 riiiilii'iii III lliiliimiii Chmiiiil, Mail, I'v'i,'. | Fortunately systematic prejtarali(tn and wise previsinn secured the sale rctiu'ii to this cnuntry ol' the observations made at the cost ol' so nuu-h labor and care, thouiiii the bulkv ()riiiinal rec- ords werti necessarily stored at Foil Conger. > I , CHAPTER XII. HYOIENE AND KOUTINE. WOHIIVI rilllE question of tlie lioaltli of any Arctic expedition cannot fail to interest most deeply the comniander, and re(|uires at all times the utmost care and attention on his part. As touching tlio health, but two complaints pertain ehpocially to Arctic service — scurvy and frost-bite; in both of which "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." As regards the (piestion of scurvy, it would seem useless for a layman to dwell on a subject concerning which the doctors so decidedly disagree. The gi'ound taken by the faculty in gen- eral, that it is owing to mal-nutrition, is probably correct, but when they go farther, and attribute it tn "a deficient sup- ply of fresh vegetable fu(iiu from ( umberland (Julf tn I'oii.t ISarrow and the .Mask.m Archipelago. Bread, vegetables, and scurv\ arc equally want- ing among them. The exemption of the Jlndiion Bay and the ^'orth American Indian tribes, similarly non-bread and non- i^S. I IIVOIENE AND IIOUTINE. 135 vci^etable eaters, is equally marked. Ignorant of the subject of medicines and diseases, it seems rash fur me to advance a theory, or even a suj^gestiou. l>ut is not the disease owing to previous as well as continued mal-mitrition, in connection with which the abnormal conditions, checked in the patients by certain sub- stances of their normal diet, develop into scurvy when the de- teriorated physical condition is aggravated by adopting a diet affording less than usual nutrition ( Is not tlie acknowledged fact, th.. men who have been inmioderately addicteil h) the use of alcohol first succumb, a signiticant one ? Its ])revalenco among men from nations wliich are accustomed to daily and systenuitic use ot" alcoholic drinks may be oidy a coincidence. In any event, an oljserver cannot but be struck by the freedom of American expeditions from this disease — Do Long's, Hall's, Hayes', De Haven's {I believe), and my own. Despite the scoi'butic symptoms in Kane's ill-fed party, no man died of it. Nordenskiold, speaking of ]\[aosoe (near Xorth Cape, in about 71° N.) as luiving a raw, moist air, says : " Scurvy, especially in humid winters, attacks the population, educated and uneducated, rich and poor, old and young." The remedy mentioned by Xordenskiold caused me to add cloudberries {Iiiifnis c/uuiui'ino- ■j-ns, L.) to my dietary, but iliey were not obtained in time. The freedom of Nordenskiold's crew from sickness on tlie Vega expedition, though lie wintered on the Arctic Circle, and I a thousand niiies north of it. had an i'ltlueiu'c on my ilietary; the exemption in his voyage seeming to me in a measine due to variety, (piantity, and ouality of food. My dietary list was shaped (»u the assumption that scurvy is a disease residting from malnutrition, which would l)e fostered by dampness, uncleanliness, mental ennui, too strict diseipline, excessive exercise or labor, :ind by rcijidar anfi'ii 130 TIIUKK YKAIIS OV AUC'l'lC SKilVM'K. our exemption from this disease resulted jtoiu my dietary list and hygienic rules, but let who will pass on the vexed (picstion. I believe, however, that our largo supply of fresh meat played a most important role in our freedom from scurvy. From the commencement I considered it of primary impor- tance, that tlie food-supply should be of excellent quality, liberal amount, and of a diversified character. The J'ritish Arctic cx- peditioii of 1S75-1S7<| were fortunate in having such men as Admirals llicliards. Sir L. McCMiiitock, and Slierard ()sl)(>rii as an Advisory (.Vtmmittee, ti) arrange tlie di'tails as to stores and provisions to be i'C(|uired, and a^ t<> the sanitary arrange- ments to be followed. A large and intelligent medical staff waa also at hand to suggest and to I'etnedy any oversights whicli might occur in the requisitions. The experiences of that expedition had shown, however, that in regard to this great Arctic disease the surgeons had been un- able to recommend .--uch diet as would infallil)ly guard against its occurrence. ( )ver forty-eight per cent, of the entire com- plement of the iJritish expedition suffered frcnn scurvy, and, excluding those who did no Held service, the percentage jirobably reached as high as seventy. My surgeon was in (-Greenland at the time of outfitting, and it fell to me in three days' time to complete my list t>f stores, which lack of fimds j-revented my properly supplementing later. T had, indeed, given much attention to the question of equipment and food-supj)ly, but my knowledge was entirely theoretical. It is proper that I should acknowledge my indebt- edness to that most celebrated Arctic explorer. Professor A. E. Nordenskiold, for tin* benetits dei'ive(l from bis varied cxpei'i- ence as given to the world. In selecting articles of food I profited largely from the judicious advice and opinions of liia surgeons and himself. Advantage was also taken of recom- ]IV(iIKNK AND IIOUTINE. 137 inundations made by Sir George Kares in his published com- ments on the articles provided for his expedition. It is natural that one should have ideas and theories peculiarly their own, and such gave direction to certain features of my supply table. Condensed milk, butter, and oatmeal were taken in (piantities from a ton to a ton and a half each, so that the habit of daily use of these articles in middle latitudes should not be discon- tinued in the high iioi-tli. Cheese, maccuroiii, condensed eggs —all considered important — were in liberal quantities. The supply of fruits, canned in as nearly a natural state as possible, was very large, consisting of ap])les, peaches, pears, grapes, quinces, etc., su' '■ aented by rhubarb, gooseberries, etc. Of vegetables tli' ■ •. re camied onions, potatoes, tomatoes, l^eets, carrots, s<]uas. okra, asparagus, corn, beans, peas, etc., of which I coi sidered the first three the most important. In di'ied fruits were apples, peaches (unpeeled), dates, figs, prunes, raisins^ etc. I'r'.'sjrves were in quantities, as also jut-kles, condiments, etc. Tliu amomit of food per man each day actually eaten in our two ycai's at Fort Conger was as follows : Oinicis. Fresli musk-meat Ki.O Fresh liinls ami liaio 0.8 Camiecl meats, souiis, ete 1.(> Canned linli (1.5 I'eiiiiiiipan (1.4 I'oik, bacilli, anil . ( 'ollilellSdd egi,'S (1.4 CliUUoO 0.4 Total— meat, etc 'M.S Canned ve^'etalile.s 10.0 Ounces. Flour T)..") Oatmeal and ecinimeal iJ . 8 Ilaid liiead :!.2 i^laeeardiii 0,4 Farina, corn-starch, ete 0.;j llice and hominy \ ,~t IJeans and }ir:\>i: 0.4 Total — farinaceous , . i;j.a Tan lied ajiples 1 .•? Other c.iiiiied fruits l.,5 Cranlierrv same and rhiiliarl). 2.0 ^1 Total— fresh fruits 4.7 P Sugar (white) 15.5 Syrup 1.8 Total — saccharine 5.:} Dried fruits 0.8 Preserves (iiicliidinLr fiuit-hut- ters) 1 IMckles 11 ■If Mi I 'I i 138 TIIUKK YKAliS OF AIM'TIC SKUVrOK. This uggi'cgrate of ()-t.3 ounces would doiilttk'ss he iiH.'iva.^r a rule each Sunday, and the other on birthday.s and festivals. The influence of the liquor was undoubtedly beneficial, as it in- variably tended to enliven the spirits and increase the cheerful- ness of the men. In addition to an e(iual or slightly larger amount, I would recommend to future exjjeditions that it be supplemented by half a pint of light wine weekly. In no in- stance was rum served riijulad;/ as a ration, either in (piarters or on sledge jnm-neys. Dr. Knvall expresses my opinion, when he .says: " 1 believe spirituous liquors to be (»f great use in small and moderate quantities, but exceedingly mischievous and pernicious in case of the least excess." I took personally twenty- live gaUons of wine, but the ofVicers, deciding at St. John not to follow my example, carried no supply of licpior, a coui'se they especially regretted afterward. E.vcept for a few weeks, and during my absence in tlie field, I made the dietary my per.sonal care. No one knew a day be- forehand (e.xcept in special cases) what the dinner woidd l)e. Every attempt was made to prevent the men from tiring of any food, and a general liking for any article caused it to be served 1 i w f I I ( * li )■,! $,■ 1 10 TIIUKK YKAllS OF AJU.'TIC SEKVICK. spariiijj;]}'. Tlio cooks, as a niU*, wore clianged iiioiitlily, wliicli ifuve varioty to the stylo of cookiiii;, and rai'oly rosiiltod in cause I'or complaint. ^o\\\^ was served daily, ami on alternate week- days the (K'ssiTt was a made one or consisted oi" canned fruits, wliile on Snnday it included both classes. Oatmeal or cracked wheat was served every morning, in addition to meat of some kind. Ki'i'sli liak<'il lircad niulcr Long's skilful niainifacture was always light and sweet, and was served for one meal daily, except during three days in the week of the last year, when it was necessarily replaced l)y fresh corn-bread. Hoth coffee and tea were regularly served, and chocolate once or twice a week . In addition to breakfast at ".;»<> a.m. and dinner at 1 i-.m., two lunches were providetl, which consisted of hard bread, butter, tea, and coffee in mdimited cpumtities. Tlie i'nllowing bills-of-farc lor lour successive days are taken at random from my joui'nal. and give an idea of our table. To avoid repetition, tea, coi'tee. butter, milk, etc., are omitted, as they were always served : Sunday. lirealfdst. — Musk-beef hash, oat-meal, fresh bread, chocolate. Dinner. — Pea-soup, roast musk-beef, baked nu^ccaroni with cheese, rice jiuddiug, fresli peaches. IVroNllAV. Bredkfant. — Corned-beef, oatmeal, fresh bread. Dliiiicf. — Vegetable soup, baked pork and beans, corn-bread, stewed peaches. Tuesday. Jirealfad. — Musk-beef hash, oat-meal, fresh lu-ead. Dinner. — Bean soup, roast musk-beef, tomatoes, fresli ap. pies. # IIYOIENK AND ROUTINK. 141 Wi;r)NKst)Ay. Jireakfant. — Musk-bcot' luisli, Ijiikcd jH)rk ami Ucauri, i'rcsli bread. Dinner. — Vegetablu soup, lujilcd ('(idtisli, hoiuiiiv. and cake. Tlio table uf the otlicerrt was supplied from the sauie disliea lis that of tlu! men, and the only dilfereiice consisted in the oc- casional addition of peaches, pineai)ples, marmalade, etc., oi' a can of shrimps, crabs, or some other delicacy. 1 had selected a (piantity of these stores for the use of the officers, but later decided i? was best to throw them into the j^ciicral mess. There was no artick: which was not shared to a greater or less extent among the entire expedition. This course, while not perh-aps ])racticable in larircr expeditious, should \n'. followed as far as is possible in all. The otficers' meals wen; served by the cook, while tlie .second cook, who was changed I'ach wec^k, waited on the table of the men. Every attempt was made to insure carofid serving of food, and to this c\\(\ reguiar crockery (with sou})-tureens. soup- plates, etc., complete), silver-plated spoons and fork-;, and sev- eral table-cloths were purchased for the men's use. The table- linen, changed twice a week, was kept neat and clean, and the table always presented a tidy, creditable appearance. The room-orderly, detailed daily, assisted the undercook in setting the table and in removing and wa>hing the dishes. The mid- day and evening lunches were not served, but simply set (»ut on a side-table, where each man took M'hat he pleased during a half hour's time. The night ob.server was allowed a midnight lunch. The party was particularly free from prejudices as to the various articles which made up our diet, antipathy to tea and chocolate being the most nuirked. The former was fortunately, on the part of men who did little Held serx'ice, a i)lace where m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) y ^ /. ^/ /1%^ C. V ^^^;% ^< C/j :/- L '^' y^ //I ^-l 1.0 1^ lllli:.2 I.I 1.25 m — »a 1 2.0 111= M 111.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation ,\ # <^ .^N 4^ # 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y 14S80 (716) 872-4503 r^^- <> %^ 4^- ^k ^ I I 142 TIIUEE YKAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICK. ,i i t f $ .. h the use of tliis indispensable und favorite Arctic beverage was obligatory. The experiences of all Arctic expeditions point to a m'cII- planned routine and proper discipline as of the greatest impor- tance in the maintenance of health. At first I was not disposed to insist on fixed ]K)urs for retiring, and none were ever obliga- tory on the officers. The hopes that the novelty of contiiuial day would wear off, and regular hours follow, proved fruitless, and an ordei* was issued requiring the men to retire at 11 p.m., AVashington mean time, whicli corresponded to 11.49 p.m. local time. Breakfast was at T or 7.30 a.m., at which hour all were recpiired to be present, except observers who had night duty. It was strange that the same disinclination to retire or to rise was noticeable during the long Arctic night, as is so connnon in parts of the world where dsy and night are more equally divided. During the second winter the inclination to sleep w-as so marked that an order was issued forbidding the general party from oc- cupying their beds between 8 a.m. anossible by the continuance of slod2;ing work after the sun had left us and the Arctic winter ccnmiencod. The dangers and prixations of this work were und jubtedly gnat, and such action was contrary to precedent. In these matters elaborate and prac- tical suggestions from our predecessoi'S are not to be lightly dis- dained or neglected, but it is equally certaui that individuals suited by temperament and character for Arctic work, after a certain amount of experience, must not follow too blindly prec- edent and theory. Tliey should be able to gauge correctly the critical points of the situation, and the Ihnit of endurance to which their men can safely be subjected. Such sound judg- ment and darins; enerc;y are essential before the best and most successful work can be done. On October 2yd, seven days after the departure of the sun. Lieutenant Lockwood, with Brainard, Connell, und Christiansen, U (! ' I il 1 1 1 1 1 i * 1 ' i '1 ■J 1 1 J :ll f: 148 TIIUKH YKAUS OF AUCTIC SKUVICK. with a well-laden dog-sledgc, left for Depot " B." Their iiiission was to construct a large, commodious snow-hoiifec, which was to he made thoroughly comfortahle, and of siilHcient capacity fin- any sledge-party which would visit it. It is certain that some of the articles selected for house-furnishing were striking, ii not uniciuo. My journal gravely sets forth that, in order to ])rop- erly heat the snow-house, Lieiitenant Lockwood was to take a few joints of stove-pipe, a small coal stove, and four hundred pounds of the host fu(3l which the country aft'ordod — lignite coal from Watercoui'se ^line. It was surely not according to prec- edent, and seemed anomalous, if not ahsurd. Ihit why not coal as well as oil, and a stove as well as a lamj), and so the coal went. It performed admirably then as ever afterward, and if at times the red-hot stove enlarged unduly the roof-Hue, it was none the kssa cheery, delightful sight and comfort to the storm stayed traveller, and in no wise impaired the strength and stabil- ity of the structure. While Lieutenant Lockwood and party wei-e building the snow-house. Sergeant (xordiner and Private Ellis, with Jens, added a half-ton of coal, mined in Watercourse Ilavine, to the supply at Depot " A" (Cape Murchison). The changing conditions of the ice in Robeson Chamiel were sti'ongly evidenced by Lieutenant Lockwood's observations dur- ing this journey, as compared with previous experiences that autunni. From the summit of Mount Beaufort, on October 2()th, Ilobeson C-hannel was seen l)y him to lie open in all di- rections ; tlie only ice to be seen in any (juartcr was small and unimportant. Xo iloebergs could be discerned, save a few grounded along the shore. It was hisoj)inion, that at that time an Arctic vessel could have steamed, with l)ut little if any trouble, direct from Cape Lieber to at least Kepulse Harbor. Previously during September and October the channel had been SLEDGING IX THE AltCTIC TWILKUIT. 149 densely ])acked with ice. Tliis jonnicy liaving resulted favor- ably, 1 later decided on more iinportant ones. One great drawback in the antunni work had been our in- ability to cross ]lobeson Channel, in order to transport to the eastern shore caches of provisions for the use of the party which 1 intended to put in the field the next spring in order to deterniino the configuration of the most northern point of Greenland. It was also very desiiable that we should ascertain the quantity and condition of the stores at Thank (lod Harbor, so as to know what articles and amounts could be drawn from that point for field use, or could be depended on in case a party was detained on that coast. The young ice in September had prevented any attempt to cross JIall J'asin by boat, and although the weather had been nnprecedentedly cold in October, yet the straits were in no ways fit at any time for an attempt at cross- ing by sledge. This was shown conclusively by J^ieutenant Lockwood's observations on October 20th. In the days follow- ing his return the straits jammed with heavy ice, and the temper- ature remaining steady at about —7^ F. ( — 21.7° C), it seemed possible to Lieutenant Lockwood that a crossing to Greenland could be made near Cape Beechy, which, being at the narrowest part of Robeson Channel, is the point where the heavy floes drift- ing from the Polar Sea most readily jam, and, cemented by rap- idly forming ice, afford a safe passage to the (Jreenland coast. I was thoroughly sensible of the extremely hazardous nature of such an attempt, but I consented to the experiment, having full confidence in Lieutenant Lockwood's prudence, and feeling thor- oughly assured that his good judgment would cause him to abandon the effort, as specified by his written instructions, at such time as it might seem dangerous to proceed farther. Lieutenant Lockwood left Isoveniber 2d, the temperature being —6.5° F, (—21.4° C), with calm, clear weather, lie was ac- .;vJt f V' I 1 i ( 1 '. ' 1 1 1,1 1, ' it: ii h 150 TIIUI.K YEARS OF AKCTIC WKUVICE. coinpatiicd by Jirainard, lijiin, Jjiedoibick, 8alci', Cunnell, Ellis, and Frederick, all oi' whom had specially volunteered for the attempt. Fifteen days' rations, Avith complete camping-gear, were hauled on the eight-man English sledge. This party was speedily followed by a second, which, com- posed of Dr. Pavy, Lieutenant Kislingbury, and Sergeant liice, with both dog-sledges and Jens, left on 2sovember -ith to add stores to the depot in Wrangel Bay. The trip from Mount lieaufort to the south of Cape IJeecliy to Wrangel l>ay was made inland, Dr. Pavy thinking that such route would facilitate his movements. The cliffs on the north side of AV'rangel l»ay were still washed by the open sea, showing that the storms of the previous month had broken up the sea-lloe in many places. The quantity of stores which Dr. Pavy was able to add to the depot in AVrangel IJay was so small as to scarcely repay the hardships endured by his party, and the results of the trip emphasized the dithculty and fruitlcssness of autunni sledging overland. Dr. Pavy's party reached the station on Is'ovember Sth, having had no accident, or indeed sufferings, apart fiom the great hardships wiiich are incidental to all winter sledging in such high latitudes. The hardiness of the Eskimo dog was illustrated by an in- cident during this trip. One of the favorites, Clypsy, was in no fit condition to travel, but insisted on following the sledge, and the second da}' out gave birth to four pu]i})ies, which, left in a snow-bank near Cape P>eecliy luitil the return of the party, were brought safely to Conger. Lieutenant Lockwood's party returned on the same day as Dr. Pavy, having been unsuccessful in their efforts to cross Jlobeson Channel, owing to the open condition of the straits. Judging on his arrival at Cai)e Peechy that tlu; crossing by the sledge alone would be imjjracticable. Lieutenant Lock wood de- SLKDCilNO IN^ THE AK( Trc TWILKillT. 151 cided to take with him the whale-boat, but was compelled to abandon that project as impracticable, as the boat was twenty- eight feet lull!;- and the sledge but eleven. In conseijuenco he sent to St. Patrick IJay and brought up by sledge the small, cedar boat Discovery, and on Xovember Hth made a second attempt. The sky at that time was overcast, and the outlines of objects indistinct, in conseartv was evident to every observing person. Naturally no one was inclined to admit that he was personally affected, but no one escaped this intluence. The most marked signs among us were tendency to insomnia, indis- position to exertion, irritability of temper, and other similar symptoms abnormal to our usual characteristics both mental and physical. In my own case, although following a set routine, it was only with ditfieulty that I could limit my sleeping-hours to a reasonable number, or apply myself steadily and success- fullv to continued mental work. While free from mental de- pression, insonmia, and feelings of lassitude which characterized t r- 1 OUR FIIWT DAltK DAYS. 165 some, yet I was at times affected by irritability of temper, which it required a continued mental struggle to repress. But few were exempt fi'om this symptom. ( )ur faces gradually acquired a pale, yellowish-green color, which was disagreeable to view, and the extent of which was not clearly appreciated until the return of light. The sun was last seen at the station October l-ith, and again reappeared on February 2Sth, one hundred and thirty-seven days later. There has been much written about Arctic dark- ness, but the test usually given, that of text legible at noon, conveys to most persons an inadequate idea of its intensity. The sun, indeed, comes near the horizon at midday for a short time, and the cfi'ect is apt to be overrated. At Fort Conger stars were to be seen at local noon seven days after the sun had gone for the winter, and so renuiined visible in a cloudless sky for over four months. In all these days the southern hori- zon lightened up with more or less glow, the effects of which some have perhaps shown a great tendency to exaggerate, while others have shown an eqtud disposition to lessen. It is true, that on December iilst a twiliyht arch of several dea-rees existed in the latitude of Conger, but the practical benefit from such arch is disputable.^^ The darkness of midday at Conger was such, for nearly two months in midwinter, that the time could not be told from a watch held uj) with its face to the south. From this it will l)o readily understood, that in midwinter the light from the sun at noon is far less than that which is re- ceived from the full luuoii in middle latitudes. * This statement is made witli reference to astronomical twilight, whicli ends when the sun is 18 ' below tlie horizon. With reference to wliut is known as civil twilight, which ends at (i below, no twilight existed at Conger during December. Ap irently opposing statements as to Arctic twilight re- sult from au iudiscrimii. *,e use of these standards. ! 15 h i h i I hi s ,1 f 1 i'S 'i ( i ', 150 TIIREK YEAT^S OP ARCTIC SERVICE. m Tlci'ardinf' the Arctic night in <;oneral, the light is very slightly greater than that of clear nights in middle latitudes, and as the sky is uinisnally cloudless at Conger, very dark nights were uncommon. Whether it be, as I suspect, from the great freedom of the atmosphere from dust or not, the stars of one fainter magnitude could be seen at Conger than in lower latitudes. The " milky-way," on very bright nights, was so clear and distinct, that fre(]uently oi •stepping outside the door it gave me the impression of a feeb auroral light, such as is connnonly seen. The snow, too, seems to give out a certain amount of line phosphorescent light. AV'^hether it stores up the light received during the prevalence of the moon or not, and i-eflects it later, I cannot say. Tlie light from various sources was such in amount, that only on a few cloudy, stormy days were we ever prevented bv darkness from taking our regular exercise. The departure of the sun and the coming of winter weather were nearly cohicident. On October 8th the 7ne((/i temperature sank below zero (—17.8° C), there to remain contimiously for six months and a day. For over five months, Xovember to !^[arch inclusive, no .um/le ob- servation was noted higher than —3^ ( — lit. 4° C). Our lowest October temperature, —31.1'^ (— 35. 1°C.), occurred on the ISth, tliree days after the .sun left. The mean for that month was — d.)i2^ (—22.9° C), which has but twice been exceeded. During the month of October the leisure hours of the men were occupied in banking up the house quite thoroughly. A wall of ice, •'^ix feet high, was constructed some three feet from the house, and was i-endered wind-proof by a coating of wet snow. The space between the wall and house was later filled in with loose, dry snow, an excellent protection from its great non-conductivity to heat. The second year we improved on the arrangement of the first year, and carried the wall of ice OUU FIRST DAltK DAYS. 157 and snow up to the very eaves of tlie liouse, a work which atlded much to our winter's comfort. October 25th, ten dujs after the sun had gone, we were mucli surprised by one of the party making tlie startling announce- ment tliat the sun was to be seen in the southern sky. It proved to be a beautiful mock-sun, which remained visible nearly an liour, Its burning colors being watched witli attentive interest as the reflected image that I'cvealed the course of our lost luminiiry. It showed a brilliant disk of blue, yellow, and red, about four degrees above the horizon, with bars of white light extending from its centre upward ami downward. I know Oi no other instance in which this phenomenon has been wit- nessed after the going of the winter sun. Our ])hot<)gi'apher succeeded a few days later, despite the absence of direct sunlight, in making a fair negative, by expos- ing a sensitive dry plate for an hour, and was similarly success- ful seventeen days before the return of the sun. The hunters continued in the field throughout all October, more for exercise than in any M'ell-founded hopes of shooting anything. The existence of game was imdoubted, for, during the last three days of the month, two wolves and a fox were seen, and a hare crossed the iJutch Island trail on freshly fallen snow within a mile of the house. There exists a general impression that the nearer the geo- graj)hical pole is reached the I)rigliter and more frequent are auroral displays. The region most favored with such phenomena is a belt of country in ^'oith America, south of the magnetic polo, in about latitude 00° iS'., over a thousand miles to the southward of our station. Some of our displays were grand and magniticent in the extreme, but in general they were lances of white light, having perhai)s a faint ting'e of golden or citron color, which appeared < I I' I I I I \1 » m ■ I ! . 1 ii > 1 \ ■ ' ! 1 1 ^, 1 '. r i t ¥ ,1) ' I. i \ 1} ins TIIUEK YEAKS <>F ARCTIC SERVICE. as moving shafts or spears under tlie formation known as '* merry dancers." The aurora of Grinnoll F.and is by no means comparable with those of glowing, burning colors, such as are to be seen in Hudson ]>ay country and Siberia, and some of which have been so vividly portrayed by Keiman in his '* Tent Life in Siberia."' ( )nr first winter was marked by displays about twice each week, in which the arch was the most common form after the streamer ; magnetic disturbances were rare during colorless and slowly changing forms. The list of auroras will bo found among the appendices, but the following brief description covers the most remarkable and striking displays of the early winter. The aurora of October 2Sth, although of short duration, was nuirked by heavy magnetieal disturbances, which attained the maxinnnn eight minutes after the last ray faded. The stream- ers were numerous and very brilliant, despite their colorless character. At one time their shining lances of light converged into a beautiful corona, which seemed to rest, a crown of golden light, on the dark brow of the high cliffs to the southwest. November 1-ttli : " In the shape of a nebulous mass, much reseml)li)ig a mass of freshly escaped steam, which appeared to be brilliantly illiuiiinated by reflected rays from a powerful calcium light, (ienerally colorless, it once showed a delicate rosy tinge for a few moments."' Later: "A beautiful and brilliant arch, about 3^ wide, formed of twisted, convoluted bands of light, similar to twisted ribbons, extended from the southwest through the zenith to the northeastern horizon. (Occasionally well-marked and clearly defined patches of light detached themselves, as puffs of smoke from a pipe, and drifted fading to the north-northwest. The arch seemed to be con- tinually renewing itself from the southwest to fade at the op])o- site end."' Perhaps a better idea of this peculiar formation OUR FIKST DAKK DAYS. 159 may he conveyed by likening the display to an arch having the appearance of a revolving, endless sci'ew. This formation was by no means infrequent, but 1 have never seen it elsewhere, or known it to be described. The ribbon shape ^seenis an Arctic and unusual form. It was first recorded, I believe, by Whyui- per in his Alaskan experiences, and later by Xares in 1ST5. December 10th : " A particularly tine aurora, like a pillar of glowing fire, from horizon to horizon through the zenith, showing at times a decideilly rosy tint, and later a Xile-green color." The monotony and unchanging character of Arctic life afford few chances of connected or interesting narrative, so I shall frecpiently quote freely from my journal, as giving the clearest idea of our life by showing how eagerly apparent trities are touched and dwelt on. Other than the departure of the sledge parties which left the station in the early days of November, the most important in- cidents were the l)irths of the two litters of pu])s, live of which came on the "2d and live on the iJd of the month. My journal of November 4th says : " Two of the last litter and one of the first have died, and another was eaten by one of the pack. This evening the remaining pups of the last litter were for a time abandoned by their mother, who left them to quarrel with the mother of the other litter, which were in the same room with her. During tlie tenqwrary absence of the mother, we ])laced one of her pups with the other litter, but it was pushed away by the indignant parent, who declined any ad- dition to her cares. Finally the deserting mother returned to her {)uppies.'' Another litter came a few days later, and one of the mothers, waiting her opportunity, seized one of the pups of the new litter and was about to devour it when discovered, too late to I .1 ' i j.i ? ': 'A' mV i ! i'l i ^ ! I I *«•»; 'Mi, 160 tihm:k ykahs of arctic skuvick. save its life. It was fuiind to Iju a coiuinoii practice for the dogs to seize and devour young pups, but, although the I)itches ate readily the litters of others, it never fell under our notice th;it a mother ever ate one of lier own pups. These dogs were placed in the care of I'rivate Schneider, as our Eskimos were of the opinion that they could not survive. The experiences of our ])redecessors had shown the ditiiculty, if not impossibility, of raising litters born in the early winter. Our original teams, however, had been so thinned by dog-dis- ease that I felt the importance of attempting to strengthen them, for at least the second winter, l)y raising these recruits. Nares also says pertinently, ''An Eskimo is anything but a good uurse, and although Frederick is a valuable man in other ways, he cannot be iuducetl to take sufficient care of the young- dogs." My experiences were the same, and I selected for the work Private Schneider, lie devoted much time and attention to them, and eventually succeeded in raising fifteen puppies, all of which were of great benetit to us in subsequent sledging operations. The disinclination of onr jnqjpies to open their eyes on the tenth day more than ever contirmed their keeper in the opinion that the Eskimo dog is an extraordinary animal. Those raised by Schneider were also broken to harness success- fully, and driven l)y him the following summer. "Onr doii's would now never be reco 1 1 i 1,1 M' S 162 TIIKEE YEAKS OF AKCTIC SEUVICE. In connection with tlio question of tire, I made it a point daily to examine the wuuilwoik in the iiuniediato vicinity of tlio chinnieys, which were so arranj^ed as to render the chance of a lire withont immediate detection almost impossihle. Sudi wood- work as was exposed to the lieat from tlie cliimneys was in- variably left bare, so that its condition mii;ht be readily seen, which wonld not have been possible had it been covered by tin or sheet-iron. Sergeant Brainard's jonrnal of November 11th indicated the opinion of the men as to snitablo clothing for ordinary use. JIo says; "(Considerable attention is being given by the men to the manufacture of blaidcetclothing; it is considered superior to the ordinary issue if stable-frocks and overalls (thin duck) are worn over to prevent snow from adhering to the rough, M'oolly surface."' The expei'iences of the expedition continued the opinion of Xares, Payer, Nordenskiold, and many others, that for ordi- nary use, lirst-class woollen imder-garments, with heavy, woollen clothing, are all that is essential in Arctic service. The monotony of Arctic life conunenced about that time. .Different methods to alleviate its discomforts and depressions were broached, none of which were particularly successful, as, indeed, none can be. A tri-weekly school was connnenced by me during the month, which was kept up through the entire winter with marked benelit to the men attending. In this work Lieutenant Lockwood relieved me by his cheerful and considerate assistance. Arithmetic, grannnar, geograjjliy, and meteorology were taught. For a time Dr. I'avy instructed two men in French. The educational qualifications of the men were very good, and there was but one of the party on its original formation who was unable to write, and he acquired that attainment during our stay at Conger. iir oru I'lllST DAIIK DAYS. 103 Lieutciiiuit L(JcIv\vo(xl, with llio assistuiice of Sergeant JJice and Private lieiiry, edited a Henii-inuntlily newspaper, the ,1 1'dic Jfoo/i. Its pi'uspeettiiii, issued on the 14th, excited curios- ity and interest until it appeared on tlio ii4th. It lived, how- ever, only lor two months, dying for lack of interest, although it served its temporary i)urpose of amusement and diversion. It was not until Xovendicr 14th that the temperature of freezing mercury (—38.3° C.) was noted, and the day following a number of oils and other substances were exposed in a tem- perature of —2.")'' (—31.7° C.) for the purpose of noting the otfect of low temperatures upon them. At a temperature of — 30° ( — 34° C), tincture of hyoscyamus and oil of peppermint were frozen solid. Coal-oil became of the consistency of syrup at — 2."i" ( — 31.7° C), and commenced to show signs of crystalliza- tion in i)laces at —37.4'' ( — 38.6° C). New England rum, ninety per cent, jiroof, ;it —41.7° (—40.9° C.) showed a thin coating of slush, and at —47.4' ( — 44.1° C.)a small amount like syrnp remained in the bottom of the vessel, the balance resem- bling mixed snow and water. At —49.7° ( — 45.4° C.) the ves- sel could be inverted without any liquor escaping. Xovember 17th, the temperature being at —30' ( — 34.4° C), the construction of the pendulum piers, which has been else- where described, was commenced by ns. It was a tedious and trying, thongh successful jol) of masonry. A few days later oin- little dog (^'ypsy, the brightest and most cunning dog of our teams, lost her last pnppy through another mother springing at and killing it. <'yp\V appeared to have maternal instincts to a marked degree, and sorrowed long for her lost litter. For a con- siderable time after this she improved every opportunity, in the absence of their own mothers, to suckle the young in other litters. Although we were separated so far from our country, yet we could not fail to bear in mind the festivals which we knev/ ii! '^ i 1 : liiiii 1 1 f' ! *' i 1 i . , II t • 1 , i !■ 1 lil i 1 , II \i I I \r,{ TI[U1:K YKAltfl OF AltCTir SKIJVIOK. WLMH' being celebrated !)>• our coimtrvmen. Novoiiibci' 2ttli was duly appointed in orders as a ihiy of thanksgiving and praise. In the morning of tinit day, I read to the party, as ap- propriate tor the oeeasioii, \\\v luntb selection of I'salms. Later eanie a series of races and friendly contests for a few snnill jirizes, which were olTered by me to incite general par- ticijiation. There was scarcely a mend)er of the ])arty who did not particijiate actively as judge, manager, or ci>ntestant. The snow-shoe race of four hundred yards was won by Sergeant IJrainard, pressed liard by Kalston and (iardiner. Latev the Kskinio contested with teams of seven dogs each in a race to Dutch Ishunl and return. The half-breed Fredei'ik was iirst in, being, as the nii-n said, too wily and cunning for the simple-hearted native .lens to contend with. A foot-raco of one Inmdred yards resulted in a dead heat between three, which was eventually won by Kllis. In the afternoon ritle-sliooting was tried at a distance of twenty-five yards ; a candle set up in a box being the bull's eye. Tins was won by Trivate Henry, with dens and Cross tied, which eventually resulted in the Eskimo winning. ' ^vt different times durinir the dav a few auroral streamers of varving briiiiitness shot nn and vanished, as if to look on our unaccustomed sports. These niysteritnis and niicai'thly visitors from the far s(»uth had that day to me a weird and spectral aspect, which sadly belied tlicir name of "merry dancers." The accompanying magnetic disturbances seriously interfered with the pleasure of oiu' observer, wlio was obliged to (juit the group of pleasure-seekers to watch for several hours in the cold mag- netic observatory the vibrating needle which swung uneasily to and fro. The day passed quickly and pleasantly, and the un- usual amount of out-of-doors exercise gave all a sharp appetite for the excellent meal which followed. orK FIItsT DAUK \h\Y^. inn The (liiiiior wan tlio Kiuno I'di- tlii; men and utRcerf', except tliat a small allowaiico (•!' Saiiteriie I'rom my ju'lvato supjily ^i'aiiiished tlio otHeers' table. Oy.stei'-Bonp, saliiiuii, ham, eider- ducks, devilled crab, lobstor-salad, iiK])araj^ns, ij;reeii corn, several kinds of cake and pio, ice-cream, dates, tit^s, and nuts com- piiried the vu im. In addition to a small (jnantity of ])uncli at noon, a moderate amount of rum was iiiven to the men in tlio eveniujj;, which contributed much to the merriment of the day. On the 27th, at a temiieratiu'c of — ;5r)° (—37.2° C\\ Sergeant Cross froze his right ear while absi-nt about two hours at exer- cise. This was tlie oidy occasion of any such accident during our regular winter exercise, and if pi'obalily resulted from a lack of care, although the physi(pi(' of this man was such, from his liabits and services, as to mark liim as the individual of the party least calculated to endure hardships and exposure. About live hundred pounds of musk-mcat and birds com- prised the fresh meat consumed during N'o\ ember ; an allowance of about twelve oimccs daily, which during Dccendjcr was in- creased to nearly a pound. The decrease of coal burnt during NovcMubcr was over half a ton as against October; a marked gaiji when considering the greater cold of the latter month, which resulted from the change of stoves in the mcirs (piartcrs and less work in the car- jiciitcr's tent. Tbc; December cold .-f° (1), and the lowest 40° below (-43.3° C). The gt ;i''ral health of the party dm'iug this lime was ex- 111 I f- i i I 1 1,! i^ i't' f Hi '-. 9V t yiii i. I ,% if ■) m I Ui 'i' 1 i } t 1,1 ! ill r j V i. it || ' ni 1 \ l\\\^ 166 TIIKKE YKAUS OF AIJCTIC SKIIVICK. cellent. Private Long, while in tlie coulv-liouso, had paid feuch close attention to his duties that his health sntTored somewhat, and necessitated his relief about the middle of October, but he soon regained his usual rol)ust condition. The next patient was the result of the oidy serious accident which occurred during the stay of the party at Conger. Sergeant (rardiner, on the last day of Xovember, broke his left leg by fall- ing in the pathway while making a tidal observation. The slope to the tide-gauge was a steep one, and in the dim light of his lantern and the rough condition of the ice he made a misstep, which resulted S(j unfortunately. Every attention was given to him. Steward IJiederbick being particularly devoted in his duties as nurse. Sergeant Gardiner's general health remained good despite his enforced confinement for a couple of months, during which the bone united closely but slowly. December opened with evidences that the winter solstice was approaching, for the twilight arch at tkiou was exceedingly tine, though it still afforded an extremely feeble light, which was sutlicient to enable occasional journeys to 1)0 made to the sunnnit of J>ellot Island and to Cairn Hill, in order to read the meteor- ological instruments* there exposed. On the 1st Sergeants Hrainard and Tlalston visited the sinn- mit of ^[ount Campbell on Hellot Lsland for that puri)0sc. They were surprised to lind the temperature on the summit, at an elevation of al)out twenty-one hundred feet, — S° ( — 22.2° C), while that at the station was —27.7° ( — 83.1" C.). A minimum of —28° (—38.9° C.) had occurred upon the uiountain since October 3lst, against one of — 4i».S' ( — 4ti.4' C.) at the station. Thermometric tests wen* made on December 2d and other days, which were based on the assumption that pure mercury freezes at —37.!)'' ( — 38. S° C). From that standard om- mer- cm-ial tnermometers (from (Jreen, X. Y.) rarely showed errors OUR FIRST DARK DAYS. 167 as great as 1" (O.G° C), but the spirit tliermometers read from 2° (1.1° C.) to 4° (2.2° C.) too low. Some instruments showed such great errors (reading invariably too low) that we were un- able to use them, as from selected thermometers readings of —80° (-62.2° C.) or lower could have been made. It seems doubtful if temperatures from alcohol thermometers can be depended on below —GO'' ( — 51.1° C), as at that tempera- ture the standard alcohol from the United States Medical Department, reduced by addition of one-third as much water, showed signs of viscosity, having perceptibly thickened. Oji December 5th a lunar eclipse occurred, which was first noted by Lieutenant Kislingbury and Sergeant Jewell. It had unfortunately escaped the notice of our astronomer, and its ending was but unsatisfactorily noted by him, owing to the presence of clouds at that time. As the eclipse was ending, the tleeey clouds which partly concealed the moon, and sur- rounded it for a considerable time, formed around it to a space of about 8° a most beautiful coromi. The large and marked yellow circle which immediately surrounded the moon changed imperce})tibly into blue, to be followed again by yellow, and that by red. A remarkable lunai' halo occurred the same day ; two almost complete ciix-les of 22° and 4G° radius, with two contact arches, both showing clearly prismatic colors. The second contact arch ■was remarkable in extending beyond the zenith, forming nearly a complete circle. Aliout the 10th of December was the critical period of our life at Conger, as a number of the men gave indications of being mentally affected by the continual darkness. Their appetites for a time failed, and many signs of gloom, irritation, and de- pression were displayed. The Eskimo, however, were more seriously affected than any of the men. These symptoms of I"' i f.j\ 168 TIIUKK YEA15S OF AltCTIC SERVICE. restlessness aiul uneasiness were noted by ine as early as the Stli, and ever}- effort was made by personal intercourse to re- store these Greenlanders to a cheerful mental condition. On the 13th Jens Edward disappeared, leaving the station in early inornini:;, without eating his breakfast or even taking lii.s bcal-skin mittens. The morning was a dark, gloomy one, with threatening aspect, which soon manifested itself in a fall of snow. To ensure striking the right trail, Sergeant Brainard was sent dii'cctly north of the station for nearly a half mile, and Sergeant Rice to the south, both parties being provided with lanterns, which would enable them to describe a lialf-mile circle around the station to determine positively the direction taken by the Eskimo. Ills tracks were fouiul with some difficulty southward toward Dutch Island and liobcson Channel. Ser- geants Drainard and liice, with I'rivate Whisler, pursued liim, followed later by Dr. Pavy and a sledge, lie was overtaken near Cape Murchison travelling i-apidly northward, but returned to the station without objection, and in time recovered his spirits. No cause for his action in this respect could be ascertained other than his intense desire to return to his home, or place himself in some situation in which, according to the superstitions of Green- land, he could have supernatural knowledge of it. Ill the pursuit Sergeant liice, in one of his many falls in the rough ice foot of Ilobeson Channel, seriously injured his shoulder. Jle was sent back by Dr. I'avy in charge of Private Whisler. The latter, in bis extreme zeal to be of assistance, had left the station without orders, and was far too thinly clad for such exposure. The weather was moderately wariri (—2!)° F., — 33.!»'' C'.), but the ove .--exertion, followed by a reaction, so affected him physically and mentally that he would liave perished from cold had it not been for Sergeant llice's judicious and persistent efforts in his behalf. The success of his action iM ! I " 1 'H ■ i 1 ' 1 f * I OUK FIRST DARK DAYS. 169 was uU the more creditable and surprising, as Sergeant Rice's right arm was entirely useless from his fall. Sergeant Rice succeeded in •'cttiiiif AVhisler within about a mile and a half of the station, when the returning dog-sledge fortunately reached them, and he was soon brought to the station. The exposure affected Private Whisler's mental facul- ties in much the same maimer as was vividlv described bv Kane in the experiences of his party, when several men eventually perished. It was several hours after his return to the station before Wliisler was entirely in his right nund. Eskimo Chris- tiansen, a few days later, seemed to have the same intention of deserting as Jens, but fortunately was dissuaded. These affairs gave me great uneasiness until the i-eturning sun and the commencement of spring work engaged the atten- tion of the Eskimo, and rendered them more cheerful and con- tented. In connection with the action of these men, it should be said that the members of the expedition had always treated the Eskimo in the kindest and most considerate maimer, care- fully avoiding any rough pleasantries with or allusions to them. Inspector Smith had kindly advised mo on this subject before leaving LTpernivik, informing me of the facility with which the Eskimo, not well ae(iuainted with the English tongue, mis- understood acts and allusions. The generally received opinion us to the extraordinary appetites of the Eskh.io was not borne out by the actions of our two natives. The excellent, hearty appetites which they had on joining wore never excessive, and were soon ecpialled by those of our own men. As to seal- blubber, they would not even taste it at Fort Conger, and later, during the retreat, ate it sparingly and with I'eluctance. On December lOth our mean temperature for the day was for the "first time lower than -40^ (-40° C), being -40.9° (-40.5'' C'.) corrected. Two days later my journal says : "It is reinarka- |i li ( I l;i !l . '; r- ! ' ( mi 170 TIIUEE YEARS OF AKCTIC SEUVICE. ble how onr little puppies, that are but six weeks old, entluro the cold. They rush out from the lean-to into the open air at a temperature of -40° (-40° C.) and -45^ (-42.8° C), in order to obtain bits from the slop-bucket, and to-night two or three rumiing into the water as it was thrown out, and remaining quiet for a mimite, were actually frozen to the spot, and had to be cut out with a hatchet. They appear none the worse for their misadventure." The winter solstice, although marking our shoi'test dav tech- nically, was by no means the darkest. For a portion of Jie day the air was filled with falling spicuhe of frost, whicl were not sufficient to prevent a view of the stars. The outlines of Proteus Point, four-tifths of a mile distant, could bo seen. A number of the party visited Dutch Island, among whom was Sergeant I'rainard, who, on attaining his twenty-fifth birthday, was, in ac- cordance with the general practice, relieved from duty. The dark- est day of the winter, owing to the thick mist and fog, proved to be December 12th, on which the want of light and other imfavorable conditions did not prevent Lieutenant Kislingbury and others from taking their daily walk toward Dutch Island. ]\Iy journal of December 21st says: "We have long looked forward to the coming of this day, and its advent is a source of blessing and relief to me. It removes all fear that the winter may not pass safely and comfortably, and so lightens my heart and mind most materially. The blessings of contimial health and exemption from serious accidents, except in Ctardiner's case, should cause feelings of gratitude to s{)ring up in our hearts toward that Divine Providence which has us all in Ills keeping. The sun to-night turns northward in its com'se, and in a few days darkness will give place to returning light, which, as with many other blessings, has never been fully appreciated until it took flight." CllAPTEIl XV. CHRISTMAS AND THE NP:\V YEAR. T T appeai'cd surprising that the mere fact of the sim liaving -■- coinineiiced its northward journey should have such a niar]ced effect upon the spirits of the men as was visible in the days immediately following the winter solstice. It was the most strikuig illustration of the many instances in connection with our Arctic experiences as to the powerful influence exercised over the physical conditions of the body by the existing mental con- ditions. The solstice past, the attention of the expedition was drawn to other considerations incident to the season, the most impor- tant of which were the preparations for the proper celebration of the Christmas holidays. It was fortunate that the preparations for Christmas entailed certain work and physical exertion on the })art of some of the party, as Sergeant Brainard, who had systemati- cally kept the men at useful labor, completed the last steady out- door work on the 22d, when the oflicers' (piarters were completely banked up with snow. This lab(M-, with the ordinary routine, sufficed to keep the men from brooding too much over the con- trasted conditions as to the coming and past Christmases, and 3'et kept their minds healthfully on the pleasures of the holidays. in order that the quarters should be especially neat and tidy for the coming celebration, they were overhauled a day or two in advance, and the floor was thoroughly washed and scraped. The fact of washing out our (piarters may seem an ordinary ^M 172 THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE. circiunstancc to a person unacquainted with the peculiar condi- tions of Arctic life, but it was perhaps an uni(pie experience that tlie sleeping-(piarterrt of an Arctic party were tlioroughly washed and scoured in nTKlwinter. Wliatever water is brought into the quarters in this manner must necessarily be taken up by the air and deposited elsewheie in the shape of hoar-frost. The fact that water continuously fi-oze on the floor in all our rooms necessitated scraping the tloor after washing it. This precau- tion, with a slight increase in the fires, succeeded in giving us thoroughly clean quarters for our Christinas exercises, without any inconvenience or suffering following. The preparation of the Christmas diimer was commenced several days in advance, as from its extensive character nnich extra labor was entailed upon Frederick, who was the regular cook. Unfortunately he burned his arm quite badly on the 2iid, but, despite his condition, re(piested that he be permitted to complete his tour of duty, hong, who was considered the especial cook of the party, with his customary cheerfulness, assisted Frederick in the preparation of this important meal. The capacity of our excellent cooking-range, with its large ovens and hot-water boilers, was thoroughly tested on Christmas l^ay. AVhen Frederick, the cook, had planned out a place for cooking the many dishes for the great dinner, he was thrown into a state of dismay on learning that plum-pudding had been added to the list. He came to me, saying that he did not see how he could cook this dish, as his range was taxed to its ut- most; and he was much relieved to learn thiit Mrs. Greely had sent a case of pudding as a Christmas present for the expedition. The quarters thoroughly cleaned, Sergeants Brainard and Rice took upon themselves the task of elaborately decorating the quarters with such Hags, guidons, and other articles as could be used in draping or ornamenting. I refrained from visiting CIIUISTMAS AND THE NEW YEAR. 173 the men's room, until on Christmas evo I was notified that my presence \va>i desired, and on enteriiij:; I was greatly delighted with the clianged appearance of the general quarters. The room, low-studded and uiipaintcd, had never presented a cheer- ful aspect, even in our days of sunlight, and during the winter season the aecunnihition of soot from the soft coal burned in the quarters had given it an air of gloom and darkness, which was largely enhanced through the subtle influence of association by the monotony of the long days passed within it. The room was now well lighted, and witii its elaborate trinnnings had u gay and lively appearance not unlike that presented by army quarters in the far AVest on like occasions. I made a few I'eniarks suitable to the festival we were to celebrate and with refoi-ence to our peculiar situation, apart from and yet a part of the great civilized woild. I had assigned to Sergeant ilice the grateful task of distribut- ing the (Christinas gifts, and lie performed his duty with pleas- ant and well-received remarks belitting each gift and its appropri- ateness for the recipient. We had neglected to provide ourselves with a Christmas tree, and our new country afforded not even the semblance of a shrub, the largest plant — the creeping Arctic willow — being about a foot long and not over an inch above the surface of the ground. In consecpience the presents were spread out on our largest table. Tlie thoughtful consideration of a few friends and well- wishers of the expedition, some of whom were personally un- known to any of us, had resulted in the donation of many articles both valuable and useful. Every officer and man re- ceived a package addressed to him personally, and some were sent for distribution at the discretion of the connnanding officer. The idea was a most lia])py one, and it would have done the generous donors much good could they have known the keen M 71 \ !|l i"^- {;h r i tih I ;! m 174 TiiitKK y?:aus op aijctic seuvick. pleasure their gifts made in the hearts of the nieii who received them. A number of the men, wiio liad lived lives marked by neglect and indifference on the part of the world, were touched even to tears, although they strove man-like to conceal them. The commanding officer received a fan — not needed for Arctic use; and Lieutenant ICislingbury a small dog, which excited the more annisement when he turned away the ridicule by calling out, '* O ! Schneider, don't you want to buy a dog?" I'oor Schneider did not liear the last of it for several days. The prosperity of the joke lay in the fact that Schneider had for many weeks devoted Ids spare time and attention to the successful raising of our Arctic puppies. These gifts were supi)lemented by a nund)er from the com- numding oflicer, which were distributed by lot — some of value and others of an anuisiug character. A plentiful supply of eggnog, and the removal of the restriction as to the hour of retiring, made the evening a delightful one, and long after the Sal)bath and Christmas came together the (piarters resounded to hynnis, chants, carols, and sentimental songs. Christnuis morning came clear and cold, with a temperature of freezing mercury, which moderated later in the day. The calm air, unstirred by wind, made exercise tolerable, and all sought the harbor-tloe for a long walk, in hopes of a marvellous appetite. At 10 A.M. the Psalms for Christmas were read, to which I added as appropriate the second selection, consisting of the 139th and 14(Jth Psalms. This reading was supplemented by the singing of a hymn and the do.xology, led off by Lieutenant Ivislingbury. I remember no service in all our Arctic experi- ences which so affected and impressed the men, unless it was that at our first burial in the winter, at Sabine. Our thoughts and tenderest feelings could not but go out to those wo had left CIIKISTMAS AND TJIE NEW YKAK 178 Itehiiul, witli doubts and fears as to whether it fared well or ill with them, never distrusting but their hearts were with us in our Arc'tie Christnms. ("hristnias falling on Sunday, no anuisements of any kind were attempted, but everyone waited with interest and a certain impatience for the dinner, wliich was as elaborate as our stores would permit. ThG 7neiu(. for the dinner was as follows: Mock-turtlo soup, salmon, fricasseed guillemot, spiced musk-ox tongue, crab-salad, I'oast beef, cider-ducks, tenderloin of nnisk-ox, potatoes, aspara- gus, green corn, green peas, cocoamit-pie, jelly-cake, plum-pud- ding with wine-sauce, several kinds of ice-cream, grapes, cherries, pineapples, dates, figs, nuts, candies, coffee, chocolate. Kgg- nog was served to the party in moderate (pumtities, and an extra allowance of rum was also issued in celebration of the day. The candies, plum-pudding and cigars were the most ap- preciated, not only for the satisfaction they afforded the taste, but as beiui; gifts from thoui^htful friends. The cii^ars came fiom an army lady who know the weakness of the rank and file for the consoling weed, and the candies were from a leading confectioner of New York City. On the 2(5th the men were busy in the preparation for a variety show, which was set for that evening, as (,'hristmas had fallen on Sunday. The Lime-Juice Club announced that they would perform at the Dutch Island Opera House for one night only, and that dog-chariots could be ordered at 10 p.m. The admission fee was in tobacco, the current coin of Grinnell Land. The first act was a representation of an Indian council, which ended with a war-dance. Kine of the party participated in this scene, which was admirably rendered. ]\[ost of the actors bad served in the far West, and some had spent months con- tinuously in Indian camps, and so were thoroughly familiar r' 17<5 'J'lIltKK VKVKS OK Allelic SIlIINrCK. I ■ I ! witli tlio pnrts tlicy purtrayed. I doubt very iiiucli if :i uwvo rcalistii! represoiitatioii of tlio wihl if(l-iii;iii was ovor prnKontctl ill till! Arctic ("irclc, if flhowhcrc. A roiiialo iiiipersuiiatioii followed, hy ScliiR'ider, which aftordcd aniiisiMiiciit for the party, hut particularly so to tho KHkimo. Sclitu'idcr hail provided himself at tin; ( Jreeiiland ports with the entire custuiiie of the Kskiiiio helle, and hein<^ a Kinall man, was able to Kqueezoliiinself into tho j^arnients. As he appeared on the scene with liis elaborate make-up and closely-shaven face, one was struck by tlio excellent resemblance to the Innuit belles whom we liad seen in lower latitudes. In his ainoirf, or woman's hood, he bi,>Ui;lit the larj^est of his char<^es, one of the (Jrinnell Laml puppies, who was nearly frij;-htened to death by the ap- plause which greeted liis first advent into polite society. Iv\- cellent cornier songs by Henry were followed by ecpially amusing imitations of a well-known military character by Connell. Tho entire party were prepared for a delightful and interesting literary treat from Sergeant tiewell, who announced that he would give a select reading, it proved to be a well-received jest, which ended tlio entertainment for the evening. .leweli entered, and after elaborately arranging and oiiening a largo volume, carefully hung up an aneroid barometer and made a special reading of it for the meteorological information of the party. Tho full light of the moon came to us