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32X

Three Years of Arctic Service

AN ACCOUNT OF THE

LADY FRANKLIN BAY EXPEDITION

OF 1881-84

AND TIIF, ATTAINMENT OF THE

F A R T II EST NOR T II

ADOLFJILJS W. (iREELY

LIEUTENANT U. S. AIIMV, COMMANDINQ THE EXI'EDITION
(

wirn XKAJUA- OXI-; m:\i)i:i:r> lUAsriiATioss madk fuom riioroauAi us
TAKES nr TJii'J I'Aun: axd with tuk official

MAI'S AXIJ ClfAIlTS

VOL. I.

L()NDON
[iKMIAUD r. EXTLFY A X T) S () X

iDulilislirrs in OiDinanj to l)ri- ^Hnirrytn tl)r tOiiirru
188G

[Alt ri'jMa I'esirvcd ]

Cu.

V.I

'Ci^

Co the

4i'

LADY FRANKLIN I5AY KXPEDITION

TIII^SE VOLUMES AKE DKDIC VTKU :

TO riS DEAD WHO SUl'KEUED MUCH— TO

ITS LIVINO WHO SUl-KEKED MOKE.

TUEIK ENKIUiy ACCJMI-LISUEI) TUE FAUTIIEST NOliTU;

THEIR riDELlTV WKOCGHT OUT SUCCESS ;

lIIEIll COUIIAOE FACED DEATH UNDAUNTEDLY;

TriEIB lOYALTY AND DISCIPLINE IN ALL THE

DVKI DAYS i:vsntED THAT THIS KECOliD

OF T lEIl! SEUVICE.! SHOULD liH GIVEN TO

THE W^niLD

It
m

• m

PREFACE.

These volumes nppear in response to the demands of
the general piiMic for a popular account of the Lady
Fi-anklin Bay Expedition ; and in theii- prej.uration I
have spared neither health nor strengtli since the ren-
dition of my official narrative to the War Department
has left me free. The Secretary of War kindly granted
me authority to incorporate in this work such official
journals, maps, etc., as I might desire.

Tiiis narrative, however, is based on my diary,
though I have drawn freely, always with credit, fj-om
the official field reports, a.id also from the very com-
plete journals of Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant
Brainard, the only regular diaries, w'th my own, kept
during the retreat and our subsequent life at Camp
Clay.

Fearing exaggeration, I have occasionally modified
statements and opinions entered in my original jour-
nal, believing it better to underrate than enlarge the
wonders of the Arctic regions, which have been too
often questioned.

I have profited largely by the acute criticism of my

PREFACE.

wife, who, stimulated into intense activity by the criti-
cal situation of the expedition during its last year of
service, a('(iuired a more than cursory knowledge of
Arctic work. During the doubtful time she noted
with keen perception the vital importance of the re-
jected bounty scheme and urged it through sympa-
thizing friends to final passage.

The engravings arc faithful re})roduction3 of an un-
eipialled series of Arctic views, the work of vSergcant
Rice, the photographer, except field sketches — always
noted — and original drawings made und<'r my suj)er-
visioD, for the correctness of which I personally vouch.

No pen could ever convey to the world an adetpiate
idea of the abjeci misery and extreme wretchedness
to which we were reduced at Cape Sabine. Insuf-
ficiently clothed, for months without drinking water,
destitute of warmth, our slee[)ing-bags frozen to the
ground, our walls, roof, and floor covered wdth frost
and ice, subsisting on one-fifth of an Arctic ration — ■
almost without clothing, light, heat, or food, yet we
were never without courage, faith, and hoj)e. The ex-
traordinary sj)irit of loyalty, patience, charity, and self-
denial, — daily and almost imiversally exhil)ited by our
famislKid and nearly maddened party, — must be read be-
tween the lines in the account of our daily life ])enned
under such desperate and untoward circumstances.
Such words, written at such a time, I have not the
heart to enlarge on.

The tragic experiences of the party excited such a

PREFACE.

Til

puljlic interest, further intensified by exaggerated and
unfounded statements on many points, that I have felt
<»l)lige(l to touch briefly upon all disagreeable ques-
tions. In so doing I have adhered to the stern facts,
while I have modified the acerbity of my judgments,
remembei-ing always that I speak of the dead, and be-
ing able in comfort and plenty to judge more lenient-
ly than when slowly perishing from cold, disease, and
starvation.

For a quarter of a century a public servant, in war
and in peace, ray faults are known. Cruelty and in-
justice, however, are foreign to my nature ; and I re-
joice that during the nine months I commanded a par-
ty of suffering, starving, and dying comrades, I never
treated any man other than he justly merited.

In this spirit I submit these unvarnished records of
Arctic service to the public.

A. W. GllEELY.

VVasuinoton, January 5, 1886.

ORDERS AND INSTRUCTIONS GOVERNINO THE ORGANI-
ZATION AND MANAGEMENT OE THE LADY EKANK-
UN BAY EX1»EDIT10N.

SriiXTlAI. OuDERfi,

No. 57.

HE.\ixiUARTEna OP Tirn Ahmy,

ADJl'TANT-GENEliAIi'S OPFIOE,

Wasiiinuton, March 11, 18H1.
(Extract.)

2. By direction of tho rrosiilont, First Limitonant A. W. (h-celi/. Fifth
Cavalry, acting .'*ignal oiliecr, is hereby assiguoil to thi; command of tho
expeditionary forco now organizing under tho provisions of tho acts of
Congi-ess approved May 1, ISHO, and March ;{, 1881, to oHtablish a sta-
tion nortli of the eighty-first degree of north latitnde, at or near Lady
Franklin Bay, for tho purjjoses of scientilio observation, etc., as set
forth in said acts.

During his absence on this duty Lieutenant (Ireehi will retain station
at Washington, District of Columbia.

By OOMMANU of GKNElSAIi SlIEltMAN :

K. C. DRUM,

AdjiUant-Uent'niL

General Ordeiw,
No. a5.

Headquarters of tite An^nr,

Adjutant-Gexfj{ai/s Oi^ncE,

WAsniNoroN, April 12, 1881.

The following order, received from the War Department, is published
for the information of the Army :

In order to carry into execution the act approved May 1, 1880, and so
much of tho act approved March IJ, 1881, entitled " An act making
appropriations for sundry civil expenses of the Government for the
fiscal year ending June 30, 1882, and for other purposes," as provides

<»i:i)i:i:s a.\i» ixstkuctioxs.

for "observation and cxplomtion in the Arcti.. seas ; for rontinnin- tho
work of sciontilio olworvution and exploration on or n.ar tli,. siiores of
Lady Franlilin iiay, and f„r transportation of men and supplies to said
loeation and return, twvnty-live thousand dollars," it is ordered •

1. First Lieutenant A. 11'. <.>,-,■/-/, Fifth U. S. Cavalrv, acting si.nrd
en.eer, havnig volunteered for tho expedition, shall take connnaud of
the expeditionary foree now orga.iizinff under said act to establish a
station north of the eighty-lirst degree of north latitu.le, at or near
Lady Iranklui Vmy, for the purpose of seientilic observation.

'2. Lieutenant r/m;/// shall have authority to eontraet {or and j.nrehase
withm the limits of the appropriation, the supplies and transportation
deemed needful for tho expedition ; and tho appropriation for this
1-urpose, nuido by tho act approved March 3, IS.Sl. shall bo drawn from
the Treasury and disbursed, upon pi'oper vouchers, bv tho ivnihir dis-
bnrsnig oflicer „f the Signal Service, under the direction of die Chief
Signal Olllcer.

55. Tho force t<i bo employed in th(. expedition shall consist of two
oth.'r ollicers, who may vcdnntcer their services ; twentv-ono enlisted
men, who may volunteer from the Army or be speciallv i.nlisted f<n' th,.
purpose ; and one contract surgeon. The latter to be contracted with
at such time as ho may be able to join the party.

4. Tho commander of tho expedition is authorized to hire a steam
Hoalor, or whaler, to transport the j.arty from St. John to Ladv Franklin
Uay, lor a fix...! sum per month, under a formal contract that shall re-
lease tho United States from any and all resp„nsibilit v, .,r claim for
damages, in ease the steamer is injured, lust, or destroved. The said
contract shall include tho services and subsistence of the crew of tho
vessel, and shall ivquiro that tlu^ s,ud civw shall consist of one captain
two mates, one steward, two engineers, two linemen, and seven seamen
-not less than lifteen in all. Such steam .seah>r, or whaler, shall not be
hired until it has been insj-ectcd by an oflicer to be d.'tailed bv tlie
..ecretaiy of tho Xavy for that purpose, and found by him lit foV the
intend(Hl service.

.0. The expeditionary force shall bo assembled at AA'ashin-ton, District
of Columbia, not later than May 15, and at St. Jolm not later than
June 15, ISHl.

(i. During their absence on this duty Lieutenant r/nWv, and the oth, r
olhcersof the Army aecomi.mying the exp.Hlition, will I'etain stati.m at
AAashington, District of Colun.bia. The enlisted men, who mav volim-
toer or be .specially enlisted for this duty, shall receive the pa^ and
commutation alloManc^s (except commutation for (juarters and 'fuel)
that accrue to men detached for duty in Washington, District of
C'Oiumuia.

oi;nKi;s axd rxsTiiucTioxs.

7. Tho sovoTiil burpiius of tlio War ])(>iiiU'tinont will furnish, on requi-
sitions iipprovod by tho Sccri't.uy if War, tlu! ni't'ossary siibsistonco,
clothing, cauii) and garrison eciuipago, tninsportation to St. John,
X.'wfounaiaud, and return, nii'dii-inos, books, instmrncnts, hosintal
Htcvos, arms, and auununition. The subsi.sti'iico stores to be furnished
as above dirci-tcd are for sale, not fur issue, to the ollicers and men of
the expeditionary foreo.

Bl- eO:MMANl) OF GeNEUAL SlIKKMAN :

11. C. DllUM,

Ailjitlant-GcieruL

Special Otuiees,

Xo. ;».

^^■Ar. l)r.rAKT:\iENT,
Office of the Ciiu-.f SKiXATj Offtcer,
) ■\VAsiiiN(iTON, 1). C, June 17, 1881.

1. Jiy direetion of tlic^ Secretary of War, the following-named ofHccrs
and enlisted men are assigned lo duty as the expeditionary foreo to Lady
Franklin Bay :

Firat Lieutenant A. W. Cii;i:i:tA-, Fifth Cavalry, Acting Signal Oflieer ;

Second Lieutenant FuEDKiurii. F. Kislinoisfuv, Eleventh Infantry,
Acting Signal Olllcer ;

Second Lieutenant Tajd-s B. Loc'kwooi), Twenty-thii'd Infantry, Act-
ing Signal Onicor ;

Sergeant Fdwakd Isr.AEr,, Signal Corps, F. S. Army ;

Sergeant Winfii'ld S. Ji'.wei.l, Signal (,'orps, U. S. Army ;

Sergeant Geouse W. Hice, Signal Corps, U. S. Army ;

Sergeant David C. Kaeston, Signal Coi'ivs, U. S. Ai'iny ;

Sergeant Hampden S. Gauuineu, Signal Corps, U. S. Army ;

Sergeant WUiEiAM II. Cuoss, General Service, U. S. Army ;

Sergeant David L. Buainakd, Company L, Second Cavalry ;

Sergeant David Lynn, Company C, Second Cavaliy ;

Corporal Daniel C. t/rAUK, Company F, Second Cavalry ;

Corporal Faul CiuiMM,* Company H, Eleventh Infantry ;

Corporal Xk'UOLas Saeou, Comi)any II, Si'cond Cavalry;

C'orporal Johefii Elison, Company E, Tenth Infantry ;

I'rivate Charles B. Henuv, C\>mpany E, Fifth Cavalry ;

Private Mat-uice Coxnell, Company B, Third Cavalry;

Private Jacoij Bendek, Comi)any F, X'intli Infantiy ;

*r!rimm h.aving doicrtcJ, he was replaced by Private Roderick R. Schneider,
Fu'Bt Artillery.

mrj

ov.nFAi^ Axn iNSTiu'cxroxs.

Private FijAXfis Lox(!, Company F, Ninth Infantry;

Private Wtr.r.r.vM Wiilsm:!!, CDUijiuny F, Ninth Infantry ;

Private Hknky Ijikudkuiuck, Company (1, Sovontconth Infantry;

Private JuLirs Fuedkrick, Company L, Second Cavahy ;

Private Ja5Ies Kvax, Clompany 11, Horinul Cavahy ;

I'rivate Willi.ui A. Ellis, Clompany C, HecDud Cavahy.

2. First Lieutenant A. W. Gkeelv, Fifth Cavahy, Acting Signal Officer
and Assistant fd the Ciiief Signal Ollicor, is lierehy assigned to the com-
mand of the expedition, and is charged with tlie execution of the orders
and instructions given below. Ho will «'orward all reports and observa-
tions to the Chief Signal Ollicer, who is charged with the control and
supervision of the expedition.

^\'. B. HAZEN,
Bri'jiulier <(ii</ Jin'rc/ Major Gcn'n-fil,

<'lii<'f >'ii'jind Ojfio.r, U. .S. A.

Instiuttioxs, )
No. 7U. f

\\'.vi; DEl>A^,T^rE^•T,
Office of tiii: Chief Sion'.vtj Offic'er,

"WAKHixfiToN, ]). C. June 17, ISSl.

The following general instructions will govern in the (>stablislnnent
and management of the expedition organized un(h'r Special Orders. No.
07, War Dt>partment, oihce of the Chief Signal Ollicer, Wa-hiugton, D.
C, dated June 17, 1S81:

The iwmfwc/;/ station will lie established at the most suitable point
north of the eighty-lirst jiarallel, and contiguous to the coal seau) dis-
covered near Lady Franklin Hay by the j'higlish expedition of ]S7,1.

After leaving St. John, Newfoundland, except to obtain Esiininmux
hunters, dog.s, clothing, etc., at Uisco or Upernivik, oidy such stops
will be made as the coi dition of the ice necessitates, or as are essenti;d
in order to determine the exact location and condition of the stores
cached on the east coast of Grinnell Land by the English expedition of
1875. During any enforcinl delays along that coast it would be well to
.supplement the English depicts by such sinall cachets from the steamer's
stores of provisions as would be valuabh- 1,, a j.arty r.>treating southward
by boats from Ilobeson Cliamu'l Ai each jioint where an old depot is
cxamhiedor a new one established, three brief notices will be h'ft of
the visit-one to be deposited in the cairn built or found standing ; one
to be placed on the north side of it ; and one to be buried tw(>ntv feet
north (magnetic) of the cairn. Notices discovered in cairns will bo
brought away, replacing them, however, by cojiies.

The steamer ihould, on arrival at \\n- p,'r,iht,„'i,l station, discharge
her cargo with the utmost despatch and be ordered to return to St.

OlIDI-niS AND IXSTIJUCTIOXS.

John. Nowfoniullaml. After a careful oxainiiiatioii of tlio seam of coal
at that point has been iiiadoby tho party, to iletonuiuo whether an ainplo
supply is easily procurable, a report in writint? on this siibjeet will bo
sent by the returning vessel. In case of doubt, an auiplo supply must
be retained from the steamer's stores.

By the returning steamer will bo sent a brief report of proceedings,
and as full a trnu.-,iript as iiossible of all meteorological and otiier t)b-
servations made during the voyage.

After the departure of tho vessel tho energies of tho party should
first be devoted to the erection of tho dwelling-house and observatories,
after which a sledge party will be sent, according to tho proposal mado
to the >«'avy Department, to the high la'ul near Capo Josei)h Henry.

The sledging parties will generally work in tho interests of explora-
tion and discovery. The work to be done by them shoidd be marked by
all possible care and lidelity. The outlines of coasts enti^rcd on charts
will be such oiUy as have actually been seen by tho party. Every favor-
able opportunity will be imiiroved by the sledging iiartics to det(>rmlno
accurately the geographical position of all their camps, and to obtain
the bearing therefrom of all distant clifTs, mountains, islands, etc.

Careful attention will be given to tlie collection of specimens of tho
animal, mineral, and vegetable kingdoms. Such cdUectioiis will bo
made as complete as ^lossible, will be considered the iiioperty of tho
Government of the United States, and are to be at its disposal.

Slieeial instructions regarding th(> meteorological, magnetic, tidal,
pendulum, and other observations, as recommended l)y tlie Hamburg
International Polar Cfniferi'iice, are transmitted herewith.

It is contemplated that \\w peniiain'iit station sluill be visited in IHSlJ
and in l.SS."> by a steam, sailing, or other vessel, by wliicli supplies for
and such additions to the present party as are deemed aei.'dful will bo
sent.

In case the vessel is unable to reach there in 1SS2, she will cache a
]i()rtion of her stippli(>s and all of her letters and desputches at the most
northerly point she attains on the ciist ajus/ nf (irlinn'll Lain/, and estab-
lish a small -lepot at Littleton Island. Notices of the locality of such
depots will bo left at one or all oi the following jjlaces, viz.. Capo
Hawks, Capo Sabine, and Cap(> Isabella.

In case no vessel reat'hes the ji'TiinDii-n/ station in 1882, tho vessel
sent in 188.'} will remain in Sniilli Sound until tliiM'e is danger of its
closing by ice, and. on li-avint:', will land all her suiijilit's and a jiarty at
Littleton Island, which ])arty will ho. jirepared for a wintt'r's stay, and
will be instructed to send sledge i)arties uj) tln^ '"'is/ sii/': af (iriiniril
1,11)1(1 to meet this jiarty. If not visited in 18S2. Lieutenant Grei'Iy will
abandon his station not later than September 1, 1883, and will retreat

«■

■I

;/,

OKDKK.S AXD IXSTRUCTIOX.S.

Xlll

sontlnvard by hoat, frtllowinp: closely tlio cant coast of Grinnell Land
until the relieving vessel is met or Littleton Island is reached.

In view of the familiarity of Lieutenant Greely witli tho methods
pursued l)y previous expeditions, and of the contidenco reposed in his
judgment and discretion, it is not thought necessary to furnish him with
more definite instructions than those contained in the following pages.
"While ho is left at full liberty to vary the details according to circum-
stances, yet the main points here given should be hold in xrow as of
predominant importance.

W. B. HAZEN,
Brlyadier and Uren-t Majnr fioncral.

Chief Si'jnul Office); U.S. J.

Tfsssaam

TECHNICAL TER:\IS USED IX THESE VOLITMES.

Boring is the oporation of forcing a ship through erowileil ico by steam

or sail.
■Waiu'ing is moving a vessel ahead by means of ropes fustonod to somo

distant fixed objeet.
A Field consists of pieces of closely aggregated ico covering an exten-
sive area.
Bay-ii'e or Hakhou-he is that f.nnnally foi'med in closed bays or seas.
P.VNCAKE is a piece of bay-ico of considerable size and thickness.
FiiOE is a largo piece of bay-ieo (or paheocrystic ice), sometimes miles

in extent.
Be-set. — The situation of a vessel when closely surrounded by ico through

•«-hich it can move with dilHculty or not at all.
IcE-r.LiSK, or Ice-sky. — A brightness in the sky caused by large; bodies of

ico in that quarter.
IIiMMucivS. — T'neven, irregular parts of Hoes ^Yhich rise above the level,

as hills above the jilain.
L.A.XU-ICE, or Fast-ice.— Ico attached to land either in floes or in heavy

grounded masses.
Lane, or Lead.— A narrow channel between masses of ice, through wh h

a vessel may pass.

KirrED. — The situation of a ship when forcibly jjrossed or jammed by ice.

Pack.— Largo masses of ico in close proximity covering considerablo

area. When the i)ieces are densely crowded it is a cliLto pack, wlu-n

water-spaces and lanes aro f reiiuent it is an o/wh pack.

Sailino-ice.— A pack sulliciently opoii. to allow a sailing-shii) to pass

thnnigh.
SruKVMs. — Long, narrow collections of broken ice.

Watku-sky.— A dark-looking sky, indicating open water in that di-
rection.
lii-nr.LE.— Small, sharii, irregular pieces of ice, many of wliich aro loose.
Foi'med generally from //<»nii/ ire, which has beou broken or ground
\\\) by action or ])ressnre of heavy fiocs.
Tidal Ckack.— Cracks formed by the action of tides — gen(!rally a break
between the main body of ice and thut which remains fast to tlio

TECJIMOAL TERMS.

lanrl. Thronffh this, during heavy, rising titles, water flows, which
IS called tidal ori:rf/oir.
Pal-eocrystic Ice is tliat of such character and great thicJcnoss as must
have required many years' time for its formation. Its general shape
IS in floes, with undulating surfaces, like liills and valleys of a rolling
country. °

FLOEnEn(i.-Apal.x.ocrystic iceberg difl-ering from common icebergs in
Its regularly cubical shape, level top and bottom, strictly porp.-n-
dicular .sides, regular lines of cleavage, and apparent stratified struct-
ure.

Ice-foot. -Sea-ice wlueli forming against the land remains attached to
1 mimoved by action of tides. It is separated from the main, mov-
able ice by a tidal crack.

YouNo IcE.-Ice rec.mtly fornunl, in contradistinction to old ice which is
at least oi previous winter's formatiuu.

.v i wwu i u.. w ».. ■ ? : « «»-^»

^mammmm

CO]^TE]^TS -VOLUME I.

CHAl'TER I.
THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUXD, . .

CHAPTER n.
INTERNATIONAL CIRCUMPOLAR STATIONS, ^q

CHAl'TEK in.

GREENLAND, .

CaiPTER IV.

ORGANIZATION AND EQUIP3IENT,

CH.\rTER V.
THE VOYAGE TO UPERNIVIK.

CHAPTER VI.
MELVILLE BAY TO FORT CONGER, .

CHAPTER VEL

THE RETURN OF THE PROTEUS

' ■ * • " • • . oO

■Ill iai«»<{^i^W

xviii CONTENTS.

CHM'TEll Vm.

VAOR

FORT CONGER, 87

CHAPTER IX.
AUTUMN SLEDGING, 96

CH.iPTEll X.
SUNLIGHT TO DARKNESS, .116

CHAPTER XI.
OUR SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATIONS, . . . . , . .124

CHAPTER Xn.
HYGIENE AND ROUTINE, . . . . . . . . .184

CHAPTER Xm.
SLEDGING IN THE ARCTIC TWILIGHT, 147

CHAPTER XIV.
OUR FIRST DARK DAYS, 154

CHAPTER XV.
CHRISTMAS AND THE NEW YEAR, 171

CHAPTER XVL
WINTER EVENTS, 179

CONTENTS.

XIX

PAOK

. «7

CHM^TEll XVII.
PREPARATIONS FOR SLEDGING,

• • • .

FAoa
. lOU

. 96

CH.\PTER XMII.
THANK GOD HARBOR AM) HALLS GRAVE, .

. 313

lir

. 124

134

M™

CHM^TEll XIX.

ESTABLISHING DEPOTS,

. 227

* *

. 238

CHAPTEll XX.
NORTHWARD OVER THE FROZEN SEA, .

CHAPTEPi XXI.
CHANDLER FIORD, 258

. 147

. 164

. 171

CHM^TEIl XXII.

LAKE IIAZEN,

• ■

. 273

CPLU^TER XXin.
THE FARTHEST NORTH.— CONGER TO CAPE BRYANT, . . 295

CHAPTER XXIV.

THE FARTHEST NORTH. -CAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASHING-
TON,

• •

320

179

CHAPTER XXV.
LOCKWOOD ISLAND AND RETURN, .

• •

. 336

CONTENTS.

CHM'TER XXVI.

SI'11IN(5TIME AND SUxADIKU,

• t

TAdl.

. ;ir.i

CHAPTER xx^•^.

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS

30(5

CHAPTEIJ XXVm.

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS {('ondmled: 391

CHAl^TEPv XXIX
LAUNCH TRIPS, 417

rA(ii.

300

391

417

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME I.

PORTRAIT OF LIEUTENANT A. W. GREELY, U.S.A Fmitispiece.

ENOKAVEU on STBEL HV CllAULKS SCULECUT.

FULL- PA OE ILL USTllA TI0N8.

Enamved, witfimt drawimjs, from plwtouvuplm by Sergeant George W. like,
Photographer of the E.vpedition.

Face Page.
Eskimo Kayakeus off the Coast of Disco i

Genekai, View op Godhavn, Gueenland, pbom Adjacent Cliffs. . 29

ME.MUEKS OF Lady Fuanklin Bay Expedition, 1881-84 40

IcEBEuas IN Disco Bay. . . r«
oO

Mdsk-ox Killed near Fout Congeh jq^

Lake Alexandka, near Discovery Harhor, Looking West 122

Game-stand at Conger, avitii Bellot Island tn Background 138

Making Ready for a Sledge Journey from Fort Conger 152

IcE-FooT and Pressed-up Ice, Cape Murciiison, Robeson Channel. 108

Lieutenant Gbeelv's Corner, at Fort Conger igQ

Arctic Clouds over Bellot Island jgg

" TuE Arctic Highway "-Rcrrle and Hummock Ice 225

XXii LIST OV ILLrSTUATION'S.

Frtr<i Page.
Lieutenant Oukei.v and J'auty Stautinci koii Kxplohation ok

OaiNNELii Land, Aimim., 188vJ ~<iO

POUTKAIT OK LlF:tITENANT jAMES B. LoCKWOOn, U.S. A '^05

Lieutenant Loikwoop, Hi(Ar\Aici), and Ciiimstiansion Rktuhninu

KUOM 8:5 '24 N :!4T

Eskimo Rhmcs Found at Junction ok llu(;(ii,Ks Rivku and Lakh

IlAZEN, .III. V, 1 883 'Jn((

ILLUSTIiATIONS IN THE TEXT.

{From photograpltH by Sci'fieant Georrjc 11'. llice.)

Pfll/C

Saxdeuson's Hope 1

{The furthist of Jo/in Darin, 1587.)

CiiYSTAL Palace Clikks kuom Littleton Island, with Caim; Alex-

ANDEU at Tin: UlfillT f)

{IJixfornril by Adiniral litijifiehl, H.X., 1853.)

Site of Polaius IIoi^e 13

(IMU<(t fJfe-3)ut Cote by Polaris Crew, Wijiler 1872-13.)

GODTUAAB, GllEENLAND, INTERNATIONAL .SlA llo.N, 1883-8:} lit

{Farthest point reached by DariK, 15S5. j

Greenland Coast 35

( View near Godhavn. )

AiicTic Belles -VJ

Upernivik 34

(The most northerly civilized settlement in the trorbl.)

English Cairn, S. E. Cary Island, 1875 ;J0

(Baffin discacerecl this island, 1(510.)

2or)

:i47
KM!

:$2
U

LIST Ol' ILMLSTKATIONS. xxiii

Page
NATiaiAi. Monument neau Oodiuvn ^o

Heuoeant Hue and O keen land Eskimd 53

Tahfusak r,4

Ci'fic inoul UDrtlicrlij m'ttlevient of Diiniiih h'n/dmo.)

UfEUNIVlK AT MlDMIillT r,(5

CAI'E YOIIK r,y

" An Iland WE ( Ai.i.r.i) IIaki.iit'm Ii,k.' (13

(liiifin's Furthest Land, July 4, 1010.)

Tout Fol'LKK gg

{Winter-quurtcra of Dr. Iluyen, 1800-01.)

Wasiiinotox InviNc. Island 70

(Oiiposilo Cape Jlaw/cn.)

Nauwiial Skull ij-g

(Shiinny ithnormal developmenta of tooth in left side, upper jaic.)

Eskimo Boys Fishino r.{j

The Puoteus in Discoveiiy Haruou sq

Pkoteus Fiust SroiTEi) isY Ice pg

Plan ok House at Fout Conoek 99

An Akctic Buook no

Entkance to Bellows Valley, Octobek, 1881 107

{Northeastern side, near Bleak Cape.)

SUNLIGUT TO DAKKNESS j jj.

Ouseuveu Making Tempekatuke Obseuvations at Fout Conger. . 120
The Fuog .„„

(Ajloeberg in lioheson Channel, May, 1883.)

Xxiv LIST OK ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page
Lunar Halo at Fort Conger, February 1, 1882 1'^"

Hudson Bay Sledoe Pattern 1'"'

( Fivm a jihotogmph by lldkf Expedition, 1 884. )

Hunt's St. Michael Sledoe ^'^'^

(From a photoymph by Bdief Expedition, 1884.)

Greenland Dog Sleixse ^^O

Ancient Eskimo Sledge-Found at Cai'E Baiud, 81 :5l» N 201

TiIREI:-MAN UiEFALO Sl,EEriN(i-liA(l -"-^

Greenland Coast i-kom Cai-e Beeciiy ~1'5

Devil's Head (Tiie Bellows Valley), June, 1883 237

Di:. Pav y's Party Starting North, March 19, 1883 340

Ciiandleu Fiord Looking East i uo.m Cami- :!, Miller Island in

Oft';
Centre ^"-^

Henrietta Nesmitii Glacier ~84

{Shomiifj eaufi'm edge croirding timnnitt the mountains.)

Icebergs '-"*

An Arctic Wolk Killkd nkak Fort Concikr '-Wi

Stephenson Island EiioM Catk Britannlv '■'~'i

(Frum sh-cteh by Lieiittiiant /.orhirood.)

Beaumont Island krom Caim: Britann ia o37

{From sketch by Lieutenant Lockicood.)

Looking into Cnirr Inlet '^'^^

(Froiii sketch by Lieutenant Lockicood.)

Cape Alexander Ramsay 388

{From sketch by Lieutenant Lockwood.)

I'.Hl

liJ!)

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. XXV

JPage
Et.ison Island 340

(Froiti .sketch by Licaknnul LocLwood.)
Facsimile of Lieutenant Bivvumont's Ukcoud mr^

LoNd AM) WlIISLEK RETlIRNlNd KUO.M AUCIIKK FlOIlI), MaY, 1883 '.'M

('(lAL SkAM SlIOWlNd AliOVK WaTKUCOUKHE CllEKK 357

Decouation Day at Conheh, 1883 ;jr)i)

MrsK Oalvks AT CoNcKi!, Fori! Months Oi d ;;(!;}

Bifurcation Cai-h, Si:i>ai!atin(i Bk;.lo\vsam) Black Rock Valleys 3(J8

I'l.AN OK Anciiont' Eskimo IIolse _ ;53^

Eskimo Stone Lamp, Foind nkau Cai-k Baiim), si :{()' N 420

ClIANDl.KU FlOlil) LooKlNfi WKSTWAKI), 1I)A IJay TO ExTKEMK LKIT 1','4

/JST OF MAJ'S.

Face Parjc.
AiuTic RK(ii()Ns, SiiowiNo Location of Ciiufmi-olak Stations,

ISHl-KJ 0;j

FoHT CoNCEii AM) Vicinity ^-.

Em'i.okations isY LikitknantJ. B. Locuwoon, U.S.A., 1883 ;;(M

DiSCOVEKlKs MadK IN XoUTll (i UIOKNI.ANl) l!V LlKlTENANT .1. B.

LOCKWOOI), I'.S.A ;JO,^

Dl8COVKI!li:s IN GUINNELL LAND MaI)!: IIY LlKUTF.NANT A. W. (llii;!:-

i'^'. U.S.A ;.,,!

:{:{8

/ -^

I>KIMU KAV\Ki;i'.> nil I III; < I1A~T (;!' 1)1 jl O.
1 Fii'iii 't ljlilllt<;ll 'It'll ■)

Sanderson's Hope,
\ThtjUi'the.stvJ-JoUn Ikivis^ 158T.J

CHAPTER I.

TlIK PIONEKUS (»F SMITH SOUND.

TUST three centuries ago, on ti fair duy of .luno, 1585, two
tiny craft sailed from Dartmouth in (juest of the North-
west Passage. Tiiey were conniiandeil by a l)rave man, a (hir-
ing explorer and skilful seaman, .lolm Davis, of Sandridge.

This venturesome voyage of one of England's most distin-
guished seamen resulted in the rediscovery of (irecnland, and
may l»e said to have opened the Smith Sound route to the
Pole.

Davis sighted Greenland July 20tli. He well describes it as
a " hiiid being very high and full of mightie niountaincs all
covered with siiowe, no viewe of wood, grasse or earth to be
scene, and the shore two leagues off into the sea full of vce.
The lothsomo view of the shore, and irksome noyse of the yce

2 THREE YEAUS OF AltCTIC SERVICE.

was such that it bred strange conceites aiuoiig iis." On July
29th ho was off the west coast, near Godtliaab, having "past
al the yce and found many greeno and pleasant Isles bordering
upon the shore."

Crossing the strait which now bears his name, Davis reached
Cape Dyer, and later sailed nearly to the head of Cumberland
Sound. lie returned to Dartmouth September 30th.

In 15SG and 1587 he visited Davis Strait, and in the latter
year reached, on the western coast of Greenland, latitude 12°
41' N.

Davis' discoveries M-ere remarkable. They covered the
west coa i of Greenland frohi Cape Farewell to Sanderson's
Hope, ^ id, on the American side, from Cape Dyer, Cumber-
land Inland, to Southern Labrador.

Ills descriptions of the Greenlanders are quaint, curious, and
instructive, showing them to have been, three centuries ago, the
same " tractable people void of craft or double dealing" as we
know them to be at the present time.

Davis was followed by another able seaman and great dis-
coverer, William Baffin, who, in the Discovery, a craft of only
fifty-five tons, sailed, March 26, 1616, from Gravesend. He
sighted Greenland, May 1-ith, and on the 30th of that month
had reached Davis' farthest point, Sanderson's Hope, in
72° 41' N. June 9th ho was stopped by ice at I^affin Isl-
ands, 73° 54' N. Leaving his aiu'horage, June ISth, ho took
what is known as the " Middle Passage " across Melville Bay,
and reached, July 1st, an open sea — the " North Water " of
the whalers of to-day. Passing Capes York, Atholl, and Parry,
he yet pushed northward, and on July 5th attained his farthest
point, within sight of Cape Alexander. His latitude, about 77°
45' N., remained unequalled in that sea for 236 years. Baffin,
in quaint language, says he was forced by ice " to stand backo

THE riONKEKS OF SMITH SOUND.

•n July
r " past
i-dering

reached
iberlantl

le latter

ude 72°

sred the
iidersoirs
Cumber-

•ious, and
s ago, the
g" as we

eat dis-
of only
end. He
it month
lope, in
iffin Isl-
he took
ville Bay,
ater" of
lul Parry,
is farthest
about 77°
Baffin,
md backo

some eiirht leamies to an iland we called Ilakhiits He — it
lyeth betweene two great Sounds, the one Whale Sound, and
the other Sir Thomas Smith's Sound ; this last runneth to
the north of 78°, and is admirable in one respect, because in
it is the greatest variation of the compasse of any part of the
world known ; for by divers good observations I found it to
be above five points, or 5G degrees varied to the westward."

A few days later Bafiin turned southward, having in this
wonderful voyage sailed over three hundred miles farther
north tlian his predecessor, Davis. lie thus added to geo-
graphical knowledge Ellesmero and Prudhoe Lands, and Baffiu
Bay, with its outlying sounds of Smith, Jones, and Lancaster.
Sixteen hundred and sixteen was evidently a good year for
ice-navigation, as BaflSn's time to Cape York, in his tiny sailing
craft, has not been greatly surpassed by the powerful steam-
ers of to-day. Li 1871, Captain William Adams, the veteran
whaler, reached the " Koi-th Water " June 3d, and rounded
Cary Islands to the north on the 7th. The Arctic, under
Captain Adams, reached Cape York June 9, 1873, and in 1883
several whalers were off that point by June 3d. In 1884 the
Belief Squadron and three whalers entered the " North Water "
June 18th. They had been stopped by ice on the -Ith, near the
same point where Baffin had been similarly delayed, June 9,
J 010.

For two centuries the waters first navigated by Baffin re-
mained unvexed by any keel, and the very credit of his dis-
coveries passed away. In 181S Barrington, in " Possibility of
Approaching the Xorth Pole Asserted," put forth a chart with
the legend, " Baffin's Bay, according to the relation x)f AY.
Baffin, in 1610, but not now believed." Sir John Barrow, in
his " Chronological History of the Voyages into the Arctic
Regions," 1818, omitted Baffin Bay f j'om his circumpolar chart.

-ip-

4 TIIUKK YEARS OP AKCTIC SKUVICK.

The samo year in wliicli these ina^s appeared (ISIS"), Cap-
tain John Iluss, comniandiii^, In tlie Jsabolhi, witli Liotiteiiaiit
(since Admiral) William I'any, in the Alexander, .sailed I'rum
Lerwick, May 3d.

They were stopped by ice dune ITtli, just north ot Disco
Island. The vessels crossed Melville I>ay v.'ith some difficulty,
and remained moored to the land-ice near Jhislman Island, oft
Cape ^'ork, for about a week. On August IHh thi'y iirst met
the natives of that region, to whom lloss gave the name of
Arctic Highlanders.

From the account of lloss we learn that the natives at that
time had sledges, dogs, knives, spears, and lances suited for tlie
chase of land or sea game. Their iron for knife-blades and
other purposes was obtained from meteoric blocks near Cape
York. They apparently had no idea of other people living to
the soutli. lioss pushing on, at midnight August iOth the
Isabella was in latitude 76° 54' 'N., the Cary ""^slands bear-
ing S.E. This was the most northerly point reached. He
considered the sound to the northward a closed bay, and says :
"Smith Sound, discovered by I'affin, was distinctly seen, and
the capes fornung each side of it were named after the two
ships, Isabella and Alexander : I considered the bottom of this
sound to be about eighteen leagues distant." It is evident that
the points seen were not Capes Isal)ella and Alexander of to-day,
as they are from eighty to ninety n;iles distant from lioss'
])Osition. More probably he sighted Capes Faraday and Hubert-
son, which correspond better to the estimated distances, lioss
in like manner reported Jones and Lancaster Sounds, which he
cursorily examined later, to be closed bays. He returned to
England in October, having, with his well-found ships, accom-
plished results far less striking and important than those wrought
by Ijatlin with his frail shalU)p.

1 (if this
cut thiit

■1

t to-(hiy,

in lloss'

■|

Kohcrt-

^. lloss

vhicli lie

iinied to

<, iiccoin-

, wrought

THE I'lOXKKUS OF SMITH SOl'ND. O

To the late (Vdiiiiral Ingletiokl, Il.X., hcloiigH the credit «if
first detoriiiiiiing tho extent of Smitli Sound.

Captain Ingleliold left tho Tiianies, .Inly 5, 1852, in tiie
screw-schooner lsal)el, one hundred and forty-nine tons, with
tho intention of searching tlie deep inlets of Ijaffiu I'ay for Sir
John Franklhi's party, and with the hope of setting at rest the
question of an entrance into the great polar hasin through
Smith Sound. Cape Farewell was sighted on the ;3()th, and

Crystal Palace Cliffs from Littleton Island, with Capo Alexander at tlio "grit.
IDiscuvcrcii liij .Ulniiiiil liiii/i ilrlil, /.'..v., lii."it.', j

Tpcrnivik reached August 15th. On August 21st the Isabel
w;is off Cape York, and the following day Captain Inglefield
coinniunicated witli Esldmo, near I'etowik ghicier. lie was
convinced that they had never ])efore seen Europeans. They
were clad in bear, fox, reindeei-, and seal skins. ^>o European
wares were found, nor were any kayaks seen.

At Xorth Oinenak caches of meat and winter clothing were
found. In summer the natives occupy seal-skin tents, and in
winter an underground burrow. In Hardin Bay an Eskimo

i ^-

TIIUIOK YKAIiS OF AUCTIC SKKVICK.

vilhij^o was found, where tlieio wore iiiaiij dogs uiul sledges,
l)iit no kay.iks.

At 12 I'.M. of the 20tli, rai)c Aloxfinder, tlio farthest point
seen hy l»af!in, was passed, and IngUitield says : " Then I belield
the open sea stretcliing throngli seven points of tlie compass
. . . bounded on tlie east and west by distant lieadlands"
(Capo Albert to the west). ( )n the 27th, at midday, lie reached
7S° 21' X, ; placing the Isabel "about one liundred and forty
Tiiiles farther than had been reached by any previous navigator,
of whom we have any record."

A strong northerly gale w.ih low temperature obliged Ingle-
ticld to return southward. Thence he ran into tlones St)und,
where, on September 1st, he reached S4' 10' W., 7<»° 11' N. ile
later visited Sir Kdward Uelcher's s(iuadron, at IJeechy Island,
and turning homewujd remained within the Arctic circle until
Ociohtr Vltlt. lie reached Stormness November 4th.

Sir Francis I'eaufort well called this voyage one of the most
remarkable on record. Ingletield laid down nearly six hundred
miles of new coast, corrected many errors of position, outlined
Smith and penetrated far into Jones Sound, and brought
back valuable meteorological and other scientitic data.

An American, Elisha Kent Kane, first passed the northern
portal of Smith Sound, and entered the sea which bears his
name. Kane's vessel, the Advance;, was fitted out at the ex-
])etise of JJenry (Jrinnell and (ieorge I'eabody. She left New
York i\[ay 30, 1S53. Fiskernaes was visited, and Hans llen-
drik, then a youth, engaged as hunter and dog-driver. Furs,
skins, and dogs were gathered up at various points, and IJper-
iiivik was reached July 17th. They passed Caj)e York August
4th, and were off Littleton Island on the 7th. Life-boat Cove,
to the eastward of the island, received its name fron; the cache
of life-boat and provisions there made.

^«^

THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND.

Kano attoinptcd to push noi-tliwiird along tho Grecnlaiul
coast, but strong gales ami tho heavy Hoes, with new ico already
forming, drove him, August 24th, to tho nearest sheltei-. Van
Kensselaor Ilarhor, in 78° 37' N., 70° 40' W. During the
autumn several caches v/ero established for spring travelling.
Nearly all tho dogs died during tho winter. Scurvy attacked
the party, but fortunately no death occurred among them. An
unfortunate sledge-journey, in March, 1854, however, resulted
in the death of two men, and tho nuiiming by frost of two
others. A journey to tho northeast, made by Kano in April,
iiad no result. Dr. ILayes, leaving on ^Fay 20th, succeeded, in
twelve days' absence, in crossing Kane I'asin, and reached 79°
4J}' X., in the vicinity of Capo Fra/.er. Hayes was tho first
explorer to put foot on Cirinnell Land. Morton, on tho Green-
laud coast, succeeded, Juno 24th, in scaling tho south side of
Cape Constitution, about 80" 35' X. From an elevation of
five huiulred feet, ho saw open water as far north as eye could
reach, probably to Capo Liober, 81° 32' X^. Ii. other words,
he found Keimedy Channel open, a condition which doubtless
occurs nine years out of ten.

In July, 1S54, the ice not having broken up in Van Rensse-
laer Harbor, Kane realized his dangerous position and attempted
to reach Beechy Island, some four hundred miles distant, by
boat. lie hoped to Hud there an English vessel, and to obtain
assistance. He was forced to return, having been imablo even
to reach Capo Pariy. On August 2Sth, Hayes with eight
others, leaving Kane, started south with the object of reaching
Upernivik, preferring the dangers of such a trip to a second
winter in the ice. After great suffering they returned in
December to tho Advance, in a state bordering on starvation.
Kane received them kindly, though Hayes's departure bore to
many tho stamp of desertion. Tho second winter brought ro-

THIIKK YEAUS OF AUCTIC 8EUVICK.

iiowcd and increaHcd scurvy, which \vlt tho party in a doplor-
able condition a« tho sprint^ of 1855 approached. Tlio oidy
recourrio then waw tho nljandoninent of tiio hri<;, and a boat
journey to rpernivik. Tiio vessel was formally abandoned
May 20th, and on dune ITtli Kane launched his boats in open
water near Cape Alexantler. I'y indefatii;;able efforts the party,
with its invalids, records, and most important instruments, had
been moved over the intervening eighty miles of rough, difllcnlt
ice. One man, ( )hlsen, died en route, from an internal strain,
and was buried on Littleton Islatul in sight of tho cape which
bears his name. JIaua llendrik, deserting, reuuiined with tho
Etah Eskimo. Capo York was doubled by the party duly 2ist,
and, following the fast ice of Melville Bay, on August (Jth they
reached Upernivik.

Kane's search for Franklin was fruitless, but he increased
largely our knowledge of .\irtic lands. Ills physical observa-
tions were more valuable! and complete than those of any pro-
ceding expedition, lie atlded to geogra[>hy lu'w lands, the
most northern of his day, and made known to the world tho
life and customs of the I']tah Eskimo. His heroic steadfast-
ness, restless energy, and manly fortitude did honor to America,
and his stirring narrative, unfortunately marred by exaggera-
tions, gave a new impetus to Arctic work, and doubtless ex-
cited in many a youth his first longings for exploration and
adventure.

Dr. I. I. Hayes, Kane's surgeon, next attempted the Smith
Sound route, to complete its survey's and reach tho " open Polar
Sea." He left Boston in tho schooner United States, July 7,
1860, and on August 12th reached Upernivik, where ho added
six to liis crew, making its total complement twenty-one. On
August 25tli the vessel was off Capo York, and there Hayes
connnunicated with the Etah Eskimo. Hans Hendrik, wlio

I'lIK IMONKKllS OF SMITir S(U'Nl).

is, the
tho

adfast-
iierica,
lii'iiera-
!ss ex-
011 and

Smith

i'ohu-
July 7,

atUled
c. On

Ilaycs
who

fivo years previous had (lu.scrti'il Kane on hin retreat, was hero
atided to the party, with his Ktah wile and habe. Meetiiij^
near ("ape Ah^xaiider a suceessioM oF furious nortiierly gales
which injured his vessel and retarded his progress, Hayes was
ohliged to winter south of Littleton Island, in FoulUc Fiord, 78'^
18' X., 73" W.

Durinir the winter Haves lost Ills astronomer, Sonntair, who
perished on a sledge; trip with Hans HelidriU in an attempt to
coniinunicato with the Eskimo in Whale Sound. One of tho
Eskimo, Peter, deserted his jnirty and also i)erislK'd. In !\rar('li.
l.S(!l, Hayes, with dog-sledges, made a preliminary journey
northward. His slow jn-ogress from rough iee caused him to
abandon his idea of exploring the (Jreenland coast, and to de-
cide on crossing Kane Masiii and following its western sliores
to the north. Hayes started on his final journey with two dog-
sledges, April .'Id. A third sledge, hauled by men, carried a
boat which was abandoned at ("airn i'niiit. The man-sledge
was sent back to tiie sliii> .\pril L'stli, from the middle of Kane
JJasiii. On ^[ay lltli, Hayes with the dog-sledges reached
Cape Hawks, about seventy miles from 1 lis sliij). Thirty-eight
days had been occupied in making that distance, yet he claims
to have reached ('ape Eieber, aliout on<' hundred and .sciynf,;/
miles beyond Hawks, .v/,;- days later.

It is a thankless and ungracious task to criticise our predece^
sors in exi)loration. Thev ai(! men who have struifirled and
suffered under the same trying and adverse circumstances as
ourselves, and we appreciate their labors ami dangers accurately.
But at times adverse criticism is necessary in the interests of
truth and history. Unfortunately no experienced, nay inex-
l)erienced critic, who has com])ared his narrative with his astro-
nomical and meteorological recorils, can so reconcile them as to
substantiate Hayes's claim to have reached, with Knorr, Cape

1 1\

TIIIIEK YKAUS OF ARCTIC SEUVICE.

Lieber, May ISth, 19th, 1861. The topography of Lieber is in-
correct, its hititudo two ami a half miles in error, and its longi-
tude su' ih'yrees to the westward of the true position. Xo cairn
exists at Lieber, and Hayes's picture of that headland bears a
striking resemblance to a sketch of Cape Joseph Goode, made
by Sergeant Gardiner of my party.

Sir George Xares lias j)ointed out that Gape Frazer is placed
ten miles too far north by Hayes, and that the latitude of other
places are similarly erroneous.

Hayes's ship broke out of Foulke Fiord July 10th, and the
solid ice of Kane liasin bai'ring his progress northward, he
crossed Smith Sound and examined its west coast from Cai)e
Sabine southward to Isabella.

Jt was thus his good fortune to have been the first known
civilized man* to tread the new lands of Ellesinere and Grin-
nell. Turning southwiu'd, he reacluMl Boston that autuum and
supplenuMited his Arctic career as an explorer by good service
as a surgeon during the late civil war.

The next expedition to enter Smith Sound was commanded
by Charles F. Hall, in the Polaris. She left Xew York
June 2l>, 1871, with a complement of twenty-three souls, which
was subsequently incrensed in Greenland to thirty-three. The
object of the expedition was to reach the ZSorth Pole. The
United States Steamship Congress was sent as far as God-
havn as a supply-vessel. The Polaris left Godhavn, August
17th, and Tasiusak the 2-lth. ]\Ielville Pay was crossed in
thirty-four hours, and the Poljiris was first stopped by ice
off Hakluyt Island. Smith Sound was found open, and the
voyage northward was delayed oidy by occasional detours west-
ward to avoid the main pack. Kennedy ('hannel was navigated

*B€iffln laiiiliul ill 1010 at Jones Sound, but it is uucertaiii whether on North
Hi'voii, Coburg Island, or KUesnieru Land.

TIIK PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND.

anded
York
which
Tlie
Tho
(iod-
LUiz;ust
ricd in
ly ico
1 1 the
west-
iiiated

without tronhle, excei)t from fog. The Pohir Ocean was reached
on the morning of August olst; hiiitude 82° 11' to the north-
westward of liepulse llarhor.

Returning southward the Polaris anchored in Thank God
Harbor, where she wintered. Hall with two dog-s'edges reached
Capo Brevoort in Octobei', but died of apoplexy shortly afier
his return, on November 8th, Hall's death proved fatal to fur-
ther advance. The winter was passed without disease or serious
discomfort. Kobeson Chaimcl remained open throughout the
winter. In the spring of 1872 Dr. Bessels and Mr. Bryan partly
explored Peternumn's Fiord and surveyed the coast as far south
as Cape Bryan. Chester and Tyson, in June, attempted boat
journeys n(.)rthward, but reached only as far as Cape Sunnier ;
from which point Sergeant !^[eyer, of the Signal Service, visited
Repulse Harbor, reaching 82° 0', the highest hiHtude to that
time attained on land. Captain lUidington decided to return
home, but the Polaris was unfortunately beset at the mouth of
Kennedy Channel, ab< ut latitude S0°, August 14th. The vessel
drifted steadily south in the })ack despite all eflfortt to release
lior, and on October 12th was in 78° 28' N., not far from Little-
ton Island. Oi! October lath, in sight of Northumberland Isl-
and, during a violent gale, the Polaris was nearly destroyed.

While the crew were landing stores upon the iloe the vessel
broke away, leaving nineteen persons on the ice. The Iloe
party, among whom were Captain Tyson and Sergeant Meyer,
drifted southward that winter and were picked uj) off the coast
of Labrador by the sealer Tigress, .Vpril oO, 1872. For one
hundred and ninety-six days, eighty-three of which were with-
out the sun, tliey had lived on ice-tloes, subject to great pi'iva-
tions aiul dangers. They had drifted in the meantime over
fifteen hundred miles, and their esfupe from death was almost
miraculous.

TIIUKK YEAUS OF AUCTIC SKItVICE.

Captain IJiuliiigton, who remained on the Polaris, sncceeilcd
in hoat'hing her in Life Boat Cove. Tlie party wintered there,
constructing a liouse from the disabled vessel. They passed the
winter in health, and much to his credit, Dr. Bessels, assisted
by ^fr. IJryan, not only managed to keep np the regular scien-
tific observations, but also attempted surveys northward.

I'nder Mr. Chester's direction two boats were built, and on

Site of Polaris House.
I lUiill III l.if,' lliiiit Ciive III/ I'lilidii Crew, Wliiler. W7l-'A 1

tlune 3, 1ST''3, the party left Life J>oat Cove for Tpernivik.
Fortunately they were met and rescued by the whaler Itavens-
craig, -lune 23d, off (ape ^'ork.

The voyage of the Tolaiis was most fruitful in geographical
results. The extension of (ireeidand and Grinnell Land nortli-
ward over a degree and a half of latitude, the charting of Hall
J'asin and ilobcson Channel, and the discovery of the extensive

THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND.

rnivik.
{avcns-

pliical

north-

iif Hall

tensive

frozen sea to the northward, were all substantial and most im-
portant contributions to Arctic geography.

The meteorological observations M'ere complete, and the tidal
observations established the important fact that the Atlantic
tides, flowing to the north and south around Greenland, meet
near Cape Frazer. The value of these observations has been
greatly impaired by the publication uf eri-oneous means, result-
ing from the employment of an unreliable computer. Observa-
tions made with such care and under such difficulties deserve a
better fate. They should be computed and discussed anew.

On May 20, 1875, the Alert and Discover}' left J\)rtsmouth,
England, under command of Captain George Xares. J lis orders
indicated that '* their scope and prinuiry object should be to at-
tain the highest northern latitude, and, if possible, to reach the
North I'ole, and from winter (piarters to explore the adjacent
coast.'' The complement of the scpiadron was one liundred and
twenty officers and men, supplemented by three dog-drivers ob-
tained in Greenland. The A'^alorous accompanied the expedi-
tion as a tender as far as Jiitenbonk.

On July 22d the vessels left Upernivik, and, taking the
"middle passage" across ]\[elville Bay, Cape York was reached
three days later. A dei)t)t of thirty-six hundred rations with a
whale-boat was left on the southeast island of the Cary group.
Detained three days in Payer Harbor, a depot of two hundred
and forty rations was cached for a ])ossible sledge party. ( ape
8abine was rounded August 4th, and ten days later, after con-
stant l)attle with lieavy ice, the vessels reached Dobbin liay.
Thirty-six hundred rations were there cached, just north of
Cape Hawks,

The journey northward was a constant struggle with immense
floes, but by improving every chance afforded by wind or tide,
the two ships Anally reached Discovery Harbor August 25th. lu

TIIUKE \EAUS OK ARCTIC SEUVICE,

that harbor the reserve ship, Discovery, under Captain Stephen-
son, R. N., wintered within two hundred yards of the sub-
sequent site of Ft. Conger.

The Alert pushing northward was nioo)'ed August 31st near
Cape Sheridan at Floeberg Eeach, 82° 25' K, 61° 30' W., in
the highest latitude which has ever been reached by any vessel.
Here, on the exposed shores of the J*olar Ocean, the Alert
wintci-ed. On the nortliward journey one thousand rations
liad been caclied in Lincoln I'ay.

Several .sledging parties were sent out by Captain iSares dur-
ing the antunni to establish other depots to tlie northward.
Eight men of the parties were badly frost-bitten, three of whom
suffered amputation. Lieutenant Aldrieh, on September 2Tth,
reached latitude S2" 48' N., and saw hind reaching to Capo
Columbia, 83° 7' X. Aldrieh thus surpassed the heretofore
unexcelled latitude of Parry, attained in 1827, north of Spitz-
bergen.

The winter was passed in health and comfort by the crews
of both vessels, despite the longest Arctic night and severest
prolonged cold ever experienced by man.

Connnunication was had between the Alert and Discovery in
early spring, but at the expense of the life of Christian Petersen,
who died from severe frost-bites, notwithstanding the heroic
and unseltish exertions of Lieutenants liawson and Edgerton
with whom he was making the journey.

On April 3d, seven sledges maimed by fifty three men and
officers left the Alert for northern ex])loration. One party, un-
der Commander Markham, was to push northward from Cape
Joseph Jlenry over the Frozen Sea, and the second, under
Lieutenant Aldrieh, was ordered to explore the north Coast of
Griimell Land.

Markham, equipped with two l)oats, was early obliged to

' i

THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND.

Stephen-
tlie sub-
sist near
)' W., in
ly vessel,
he Alert
i rations

ares dur-
M'thward.
of whom
ber 2Tth,
to ( "ape
leretofore
of Spitz-

icovery ni
Petersen,
he heroic
Edgerton

abandon one, and after indescribable exertions sncceeded, by
indomitable energy, in reaching on the frozen ocean May 12,
1876, the highest latitnde to that time attained. That point
was 83° 20' 20" N., 03° 5' W, The sea was found to be seventy-
two fathoms deep, with clay bottom ; surface temperature, 28.5" ;
Ijottom temperature, 28.8°. At that time five of Markham's
seventeen men wei-e on the sledges disabled by scurvy. His
outward journey entailed two hundred and seventy -six miles of
travel, although his farthest point was but seventy-three miles
distant from the ship. On the return journey Ids men grew
steadily worse, and although tlie second boat was abandoned
'May 2Tth, yet on June 7th it was evident the party would
]K'risli without help. Lieutenant Parr in this emergency made
alone a forced march of twenty-four hours, and reaching the
Alert, obtained assistance. One of the party died, however,
and eleven others of the original seventeen were carried to the
ship on relief sledges.

Lieutenant Aldrich's journey along the north coast of Grin-
nell Land was a most remarkable one, and in my opinion has
never been duly appreciated by the general public. He reached.
May ISth, Point Alert, near Cape Alfred Ernest, 82° 16'
K, 85° 33' AV. ; whence, he says, " the trend was gradually
southward and westward." He had surveyed two hundred and
twenty miles of new coast. His party, also attacked by scurvy,
would not have reached the ship without the assistance which
came to them through Lieutenant May. Only Lieutenant
-(Vldrich and one man out of the eight were able to haul, when
relieved.

During this time, Captain Stephenson of the Discovery liad
parties in the field. Lieutenant Archer, ordered to explore Lady
Franklin Sound, succeeded in defining its limit, and reached
the head of the Fiord, wliich now bears his name.

tium':!-; years of aiictic service.

Lieutenant L. A. IJoiuimont was detailed to explore the north
coast of (Ti-eeiiland. lie left the Discovery with two eiglit-man
sledges, April (I, 187('), and lii'.st visiting the Alert, afterward
crossed liobeson Chaiuicl to liepulse Harbor, llis supporting
sledge nnder Dr. Cop})inger turned back May 4th.

Eeaumont reached Cape Bryant j\[ay 11th, and, pushing on,
succeeded with one man in reaching. May 2()th, the eastern coast
of Sherard Osborn Fiord, S2^ 20' X., 5U° 45' W. Scurvy liad
already attacked the i>arty, and their roturn-trip was made under
most distressinj'' circumstances. To save their strength Lieu-
tenant licaumont maile a depot at Capel»ryant of extra I'ations.

liepulse Harbor was reached June loth, by which time the
party was in desperate straits, only Lieutenant IJeanmont and
Gray being able to wurk. Abandoning everything not abso-
lutely indispensable, Lieutenant Beaumont had to decide whether
to cross liobeson ChauTiel to the Alert, or ])roceed forty miles
to Thank God Harbor, lie soon found that rotten ice and
f re(pient water-pools forbade his crossing liobeson Channel, and
with but little hope lie turned his face southward. Struggling
on with failing strength, his party was saved by the advent of
Lieutenant liawson and Dr. Cupj)inger, June 2-ith, who assisted
them to Thank (Jod Harbor, which was reached July 1st. Two
men, Paul and Hand, died and wei'e buried near Captain Hall.
Lieutenant I'eaumont after the recuperation of his party, crossed
'Robeson Channel by boat and sledge with great difficulty,
reaching Cape Baird August 12th.

In the meantime, Captain Xares had decided in July to re-
turn to England, mainly on accomit of scurvy, of which thirty-
six cases had occurred on the Alert alone. In addition to the
break-down of his sledge-parties from this disease, he was con-
vinced of the impracticability of successful luivigation in the
Polar Sea, and, from the lack of land to the northward, eipially

THE PIONEERS OF SMITH SOUND.

Ivoiit l>f

tit-sisted

Two

m Hall.

crossed

fficiiltv,

(l(iiil)tfnl of sledge-journeys over the frozen sea toward the Pole.
The Alert left Floeberg lieach July ."l, 1S7<), and through dar-
ing seamanship succeeded in retracing her course down Jiobeson
Channel.

Both ships rounded Cape IJebor August 20th, and ten days
later were in Dobbin IJay. In their passage southward the
sledging depots at Joe Island, Capes Collinsou and Sabine,
as well as the larger depots at Lincoln Jjay and S.E. Cary
Island were left untouched. A large portion of the Cape
Hawks depot was re-end)arked during an enforced delay. The
voyage from Kennedy Channel southward was difficult, tedious,
and dangerous, but finally on September 9th both vessels
reached the open sea, off Eache Island, and recrossed the Arctic
circle October 4th.

This expedition, costing three-quarters of a million, com-
manded by an officer of Arctic experience, — one of the finest
seamen in her Majesty's service,— composed of picked officers
and men from the English Xavy, fitted out under the advice of
Arctic veterans, thoroughly and efficiently equipped, withstood
the experiences and privations incident to Arctic life and ex-
ploitations but a single year.

They had, however, explored Archer's Fiord, outlined the
eiiHre northern coast of Grinnell Land, added nearly a hundred
miles to the Greeidand coast, j)ushed an English vessel into the
highest known latitiide, and planted the Tnion Jack both on
land and sea nearer the TJe than ever before. They brought
back an elaborate set of tidal, magnetic, and meteorological ob-
servations, which are valuable contributions to the physical
sciences. They charted Greenland and Grinnell Land with re-
markable exactitude, and depicted the circumstances of their
sufferings and experiences in narratives which are notable both
for their modesty and accuracy.

r J

TIinKE YEAR8 OF AHCTIC SKIIVICK.

My own experiences regarding Arctic service sonicwliat le-
seniblo those of I'ayer. lie relates: "In the year l!SGS,
wliile employed on the survey of the Orteler Alps, a news-
paper with an acconnt of Koldewey's first expedition one day
found its way into my tent on- the mountainside. In the even-
ing I held forth on tlie Korth Pole to the herdsmen and Jligers
of my party as we sat around the fire, no one filled with more
astonishment than myself, that there should ho men endued
witli such capacity to endure cold and darkness. No presenti-
ment had I then that the very next year I should myself liave
joined an expedition to the North Pole ; and as little could
Ilaller, one of my Jihjcrs at that time, foresee that he would
accompany me on my third expedition."

Surprised, as all the world, at their return, I read one day
in London that the Arctic squadron had reached the Irish
coast, and with all England I was absorbed in the story they
had to tell. It had then for me a deep, altliough impersonal,
interest, but never in my wildest fancies did I picture myself as
one of the next expedition which should sail northward be-
tween the "Pillars of Hercules" into the "Unknown Kegions."

.V;. !|;
n '■■ \

hat rc-
r 1^08,
•x news-
one day
lie cven-
[1 JiUjcm
til niore
L cnducil
presenti-
^elf liavo
tie could
ic would

one day
the Irish
story they
npersonal,
myself as
ward be-
vegions."

'■^^^

:5a<<fe4e^|^'

^v\V

'— 1^

Godthaab, Greenland. International Station, 1882-83.
\,FarthL'iit puint reattml hij IJuiis, 15,S5. |

CllAPTEIi II.

INTERNATIONAL CIRCUMPOLAll STATIONS.

rilllE establishment of the International Cireumpolar Sta-
tions was due to the exertions of Lieutenant Charles
AVeyprecht, Austrian Kavy. Wey]iret'ht was born in llesse-
Darnistadt in 1838. Enterinji; tlie Austrian Xavy at eighteen,
he was decorated and promoted for c'alhuitry in the naval action
of Lissa, July, 18GG. Prevented by ill-liealth from serving in
the German Polar E.xpedition of 18(58, he began his Arctic career
with Payer in 18T1. That year, in tlio Isj])urn, he opened up
IJarentz Sea to future explorers, reaching, in his small sailing
vessel, latitude 78° 45' jV., longitude 41° E., a point two and
one-half degrees north of Nova Zembla.

In 1872, with Payer, again as an associate, AVeyprecht entered
the Arctic circle in connnand of the Tegetthoif, which had been

TIIllEK YEAUS OF AllCTIC SERVICE

littt'il out by till! Auatro-IIuiij^iiriiiii (lovuriiiiieiit, and Count
AVil('zok, for tlio ])urpos(! of Airtic exploriitioti in tlio dirccrtiou
of the northeast passage. I >esi't tlio first day aftor leaving ^«ova
Zeiid>la in 70' 22' X., the vessel drifted the ensuing year over
three degrees northward to the southern >aore of a new land.
This new Arctie domain, l''ranz .loset' 1-and. was partly cx})lored
by Lieutenant .Iiilius Payer and found to extend at least from
80° to 83° X. and ironi T.o" to (>:) W.

Despairing of release from the pack, ^Veyprecht, after a sec-
ond winter's iniprisoiiniciit, al)an(loned tlic 'iY'getthoff, ^lay 20,
1S71, and conducted his i)artv safelv bv sledge and boat to the
M'est coast of Xova Zendila, where lie fell in with liussian fish-
ing-vessels.

rndisniayed In' his hardships, ])ut profiting by his experi-
ences, ^Veyprecht, at the meeting of the (lerman Scientific and
^Medical Association, at (iratz, in Septendjcr, IST;"), presented a
plea for systematic polar exploration and research, lie pro-
jioscd that scientific investigations, heretofore subordinated to
geographical discovery, be now made the primary object.

Insisting on the great importance of Arctic exploration to a
bettor knowledge of the laws of nature, he pointed out that
mimite topography was com])aratively unimportant, and that
geographical discoveries were of marked value only when they
extended the fields for scientific iixpiiry. Observation stations,
he said, should be chosen, i)articularly with reference to the sub-
ject to be investigated, and the series of observations sliould bo
continuous and unbroken.

A Commission, comprising some of (Jermany's most eminent
scientific men, was appointed by Prince liismarck to consider
the (juestion. The Commission strongly commended the plan
to the Bundesrath and ti) all interested nations. It expressed
its convictions as to the great value of the work, and its opinion

''^

INTKKNATIONAI- CIUCUMPOLAU STATIONS.

Coiint
rcctioii
if 'Sox a
.:ir ovm"
\v liind.

,8t from

er a pcc-
:M;iy iit»,
at t(» the
siuii iish-

s cxperi-

iititic ami

cseiitctl a

lie pro-

inated to

JL't.

;\tion to a
(i\it, that
iiid that
uMi ihoy
stations,
the siih-
louhl V)e

5t oiniuent

u consider

the jdan

expressed

its opinion

that the united action of several countries w-.xa essential to a
complete solution of the i)rohlems involved.

In May, 1^77, Count Wiic/.ek ami Weyi)rcciit drew up a
plan for the work, hut the Turko Ilussian war prevented the
meeting' of the International Afeteorological Congress to Mdiich
it was to he presented. The Congress linally met at Rome,
April 22, 1S7!).

The Conference was of the " opinion that these ohservations
will he of the highest importance in develo})ing meteorology
and in extending our knowledge of terrestrial magnetism." It
recommended general ])articipatioii, and called an International
polar (\)nference, M'hich met at ILunhnrg, Octoher J, 1S79.
Ei^rht countries sejit delcirates and three sent connnunications
favoring the project. Dr. Xeumayer was elected President.
Twelve stations (four in the Antarctic regions) were agreed on,
one of which was t(j he in the Archipelago of North America.
Pules for oldigatory and oiitional ohservations were fonnulated.
An agreement was made that no nation should ho hound until
eight stations should he guaranteed.

The second Conference met at Pcrne, August 7, 18S0, and
I'rofessor Wild was elected President, vice Keumayer resigned.
Nine nations Austria, Hungary, Denmark, France, (Jermany,
Italy, Xetherlands, Norway, Ilussia, and Sweden, sent delegates.
The Conference adhered to its previous decision regarding the
general principles and details of tlie plan. Sufficient progress
luid heen made to justify the expectation of enough mxtions
participating to ultimately make the sclicme successful. Its
execution, however, was deferred until 1882-83.

In the meantime. Captain Ilowgate, United States Army,
had especially interested himself in Arctic matters, and in 1877
sent to Cumherland Gulf the schooner Florence with the view
of collecting dogs, skih clothing, etc., for a projected colony at

TIIKKK YKAIW OF AIKniO RKUVICK.

Lady Franklin Uay. Falling in liis direct plan for a jxilar
coluiiy, (/Hptain Ilowgatt; yiiccoeded in having I/idy Franklin
Hay designated an the point in the Archipelago ol" North Amer-
ica which was to bo occnpied l>y the United Stat nal !Ser-
vice as a polar station.

The importance of Lady Fraidilin l»ay as a station was
nmleniahle, as comparable observations in meteorology and
magnetism wonld thus he obtained. Captain Ilowgate's
indefatigable exertions linally resnlted iti the Act of Congress,
approved ^lay 1, 1880, which authorized the establishment
of a temporary station at Lady i-'raidvlin l>ay for scientific
observation, etc., and provided for the accej)tance and fitting
out for such work of the steamship (iulnare, which he liad
purchased.

Lieutenants CJrecly, Doanc, and i^owe, I'nited ''■tates Army,
were detailed f(»r duty in this service, and J)i hive Favy

employed as surgeon. The expedition was to ^ out the
])rogrannne outlined by the J Limburg Folar Conference. The
refusal of the Xavy Department to accejjt the CJnlnare for the
work caused Lieutenant Greely to decline the connnand of tlio
expedition, but the otliers proceeded to Disco, wlience the
(iulnare returned disabled leaving Dr. I'avy in (ireenland.

Dr. Wild, I'resident of the International J'olar Commission,
in Sej)tembc;', 1880, informed the Chief Signal Officer that two
stations were yet lacking— Foint liarrow and "some point in
the Archipelago of North America."' The Sundry Civil ]>ill of
IVrarch 3, 1881, api)ropriated $25,000 for the station at Lady
Fi'anklin Bay, already authorized by C^ongress. General W, T>.
Jlazeu had in the meantime become Chief Signal OtRcer, and,
impressed with the scientific importance of the work and the
propriety of the United States doing ii ; part, not only took a
personal and active interest in the international station of J^ady

wmm

:i |)olrtr
Knuikliii
li Anior-
luvl Sei'-

iou ^vivs
Dgy a 11.1
owguto's
Vmgrcss,
lislimeiit
scientitii;
,cl iittiniii;
. lio liiul

38 Army,
ivci I'avy

out tlu!

ce. Tlu;
•0 for the
ul of the
once the
liind.
ninission,
• that two
ponit ill

di r.iii or

I at Lady
ml W. Tk

Rcer, aiitl,
k and the
nly took a

II of I.ady

1 '

■"▼■i '". ~\.e — -i--a3^

L — iJi, TC "«>.

S 1

' f

■i i

Arctic Regions, Showinc; I ocation of Circumpolar Station. 1881-83.

INTEKXATIONAL CI UCUM POLAR STATIONS.

Franklin Bay, but also established independently the second
station, in a nuich lower latitude, at Point liarrow.

Eventually fourteen stations were established as follows :

Government.

Station.

Anstrin— Iliingary

Di'ninnrk

Finland

Franco

Cloiniiuiy

Corniniiy

Circnt Uritniii and

Caiiaila

H(illiinil

Ntirway

RusHia

Unssin

Latitude.

Swi'don

United States
United StaU'S

.Ian May.n, 70°r>i»'N.

Uodtlinali, BI'lTX.

Sodanltyln, (17° 21' N.

J Ornntrt I'iOi

1 CniH! Hmri, 55°31'S.

j ICinguwa Fiord,

I Cundjerlnnil Sound, 06° 36' N.

j Uoyal Itay,

I S. Georyiun Islnnda, S^i' 31' S.

Ft. Rap, »i8»39'N.

I)i<-l<sonhaven, 7a«:'(l'N.

DoKs.kc.p. (HtoWi'N.

Lena TKIta, '^3' N.
J Nova /('inltln,

( Karnialnki' Buy, ♦78° KO' N.

Siijlzljcr^'.'n, 7f>° 28' N.

I'oiiit liarniw, 71°1S'N.

Lady Franklin Bay. «1° 44' N.

Longitude.

Chief.

8° 28' W. Lieut. Eniil von WohlKemiUli.
51° -10' W. Asrtt. A. F. \V. Paulsen
2U° at/ E. Asst. E. BiuBO.

I
70" 21' W. Lieut. Courcellc-Seueuil.

67° 14' W. Dr. \V. Giese.

36" 5' W. Dr. C. Schrader.

115° 44' W. Caiit. If. r. Dawson, B.A.

81° E. Dr. M. Snellen.

2;^° E. Asht. A. S. Steeu.

124° 41)' E. Xieut. Jiir(,'ens.

fi.S" E. ILient. Andrejew.

l."!" 45' E. Candidati' N. I'lkliolm.
ISii" 24' W. ;Liuut. I'. II. Ray, 8th Inf.
64» 46' W. Lieut. A. W. Greeiy, 5th Cav.

♦ Estimated.

To these stations should bo added the Danish exploring
steamer Dijniphiia, Lieutenant A. P. Ilovgaard, which, beset
by the pack, wintered in the Kara Sea about 71° N., 64° E.

Many great observiitorios in lower latitudes co-operated with
the I'olar stations, and other auxiliary stations were added,
which raised tlie number of stations observing in concert to
over forty. Among the auxiliary stations may be mentioned
Pola, ]\[iinich, Utrecht, ^NFoncalieri, Velletri, Peking, Tillis,
Pavlosk (St. Petersburg), Zi-ka-AVoi (Shanghai), Taskend, Xer-
tschinsk, Moscow, Coimbra, Los .Viigeles, Stonyhurst, Naples,
Itio Janeii'o, Pombay, and Ppsala.

Ju the est.abiishment and relief of these stations some seven
hundred men incurred dangers incident to all Arctic service,
but such has been the improvement in Arctic ecpiipment that
pave in the case of the Lady Franklin Pay expedition no man
])erished.

rrrr.

■5H55re?!3S!-5!

mtw^

TllUEE YEAIIS OF AUCTIC SERVICl':.

I .

1 1 -n

The scientific work of each expedition was to a greater or
lesser extent successful. AVeyprecht died, but the work he
planned was carried on and is iinished. Progress in the devel-
opment of physical sciences and the discovery of new laws
largely proceeds from tentative efforts. The scientitic work of
these stations must be justly measured by the filial result. Geod-
esy, meteorology, and magnetism may, or may not, profit as fully
as sanguine advocates anticijiated. Be that as it may the work
of the International Polar (commission will live in history as a
great one, if only as an epoch in modern civilization marked
by the union of eleven great nations in planning and executing
for strictly scientific purposes so extensive and dangerous a
work.

ill

Greenland Coast.
[View near fioitfiavn.\

CllArTEIl III.

gkp:enland.

A N account of explorations iu Smith Sound would be ineoin-

plete without a brief descriptitm ot" (ireenland. ^^^gue

and indeiinite ideas rcgardinj^ that country prevail, even among

intelligent classes, and many know it only as depicted in Ileber's

celebrated hynm.

The materials of this account have been drawn partly from
the standard works of Crantz and llink, although other author-
ities have been freely consulted.

The contour of Greenland is that of an irregular lozenge, over
fourteen hundred miles long and some nine hundred miles wide.
Its greatest width closely coincides with the 7Sth parallel,
from Cape Bismarck, of Koldewey, westward to Cape Alex-
ander. Cape Farewell at its southern extremity, seven degrees
south of the Arctic circle, is nearly on the same meridian as
Cape Washington, six degrees south of the Pole.

t;^ "-*-'!. ^m

f^m^

.^-Lfi.J, ,\JLJWI

imm

^wi

nnm

TIIKEE YEARS OE ARCTIC SERVICE.

! i

i ,
1

..'i

fxreenlaml might well be called tlie glacial continent, as fully
three-fourths of its known ai'ca are covered by an eternal ice-
cap, known as the inland ice.

Much discussion has been had as to the real extent of this
ice and the exact conditions of the interior of Greeidand. Re-
peated attempts have been made to penetrate its frozen waste,
none of which wei'o \o,vy successful until 1883. Keilson in
183U reached a point eighty miles from llolstenborg. l>aroiv
Tsordenskiold, the most famous Arctic explorer of the age, in
1870, reached a point about twenty-two hundred feet above the
sea, about 08° 22' JS'., 49° W. " The iidand ice continued to
rise toward the interior," he says, " so that the horizon to tho
east, north, and south was terminated by an ice-border almost
as smooth as that of the ocean."' In 1883 Xordenskiold hinu
self succeeded in reaching a point eighty miles from the edge
of the ice, and his Lapps pushed on one hundred and thirty
miles l)eyond, their farthest being about 69° 30' N., 40° AV.
The ice, then over six thousand feet above the sea, still arose
gradually toward the east, but no peaks were visible. The con-
tinent liiid been crossed more than half way to the east coast
vithout any change in the ice-cap being noted, or its sunnnit
attained. The inland ice is of an unknown thickness, but Dr.
Brown says from one thousand to three thousand feet is not
uncommon.

The east coast swept by the Spitzbergen ice-stream is l)ut lit-
tle known, despite the fact that for over two centuries the sea
that washes its shores was annually visited by adventurous
whalers.* Steadily and continually an arctic current sets this

* Sooresby points out that Ilollaiul in ono hundred and seven years fitted
out over I'mirtcen tlioiisand sliips for tlie (ireeiilnnd wliale flsIiericR, only four
per centum of wliieli were lost, and took frou. these seas oil and bono to the
value of lifty-five luilliou dollars. The aame nation in sixty years draw from

'Vi I

GREENLAND.

Imtlit-
tlie st'ii

sL-ts this

ice-stream southward from the Polar Sea into the Xorth Athiii-
tic. In winter it is a solid pack covering the sea from Spitz-
bergen and Iceland to the Greenland coast. In summer, how-
ever, southerly winds, higii temperatures, and the warm curro!it
to the north (discovered by Xordensiciold's expedition of ISHo, to
exist fifty miles off shore), loosens and disintegrates the pack,
leaving along the shore an ice-belt varying from twenty to a
hundred miles in width.

From the 70th parallel successive explorers have indeed
outlined the coast as far northward as Cape Bismarck, latitude
77 , but to the southward it is :i blank for over three hundred
miles, until from Capo Dan we sight Graah's Islands, reached
from the south by that energetic Dane on his fruitless search
for the lost colonies.

This land is freer from the iidand ice than tlio western coast,
and its shores less frequently broken by intersecting inlets, It
])resents several remarkable liords, one of which, Jvaisor Franz
Josef, vividly described by Payer, is amoiig the grandest and
most beautiful in the world. To the westward of this fiord
Petermann's Peak, perhaps the only true mountain of Green-
land, laises its head some eleven thousand feet toward the
heavens.

Sixty years ago a few scattered Eskimo lived near the 75th
parallel, but in 1870 Dr. Pansch found the huts desolate, their
occupants vanished. Doubtless they had withdrawn toward
Cape Farewell, near which, in 1S(!1, Mr. Rosing reported the
east coast natives as numbering from eight hundred to a thou-
saiul.

Kordenskiold who succeeded, August, 1883, in landing on that

tlie waters of Davis Strait wealth amountiui,' to nearly tliirt-en million dolliirs.
Tliese inconiiiletc ligurcs may convey to tlie reader some faint idea of the solid
contributions of the Arctic seas to the wealth of the world.

S3:

,imM. 'm

!■ I

1 I

TIIIiEK VKAUS OK AKCTIO SKKVICK.

coast, discovered recent traces of Eskiiiuj in Kiiii:; Oscar Harbor,
just nortli of Cape Dan, aliout (id' X., a fact wliicli sliows tliat
occasional parties yet frequent that vicinity, prolxibly in search
of game.

Danisli (irci'iihmd covers tiie westiTii coast from ("ajie Fare-
well nearly a thousand miles northward. Its iu)rthern Inspector-
ate is divided into seven, and the southern into five districts.
Each portion is uovcriu'd liy a rnyal inspector as tlm representa-
tive of the King of Demnark. lie has, to a certain extent, su-
pervi.-ion of the officials of the lioyal Trade, and acts in a
magisterial capacity whenever necessary.

The Uoyal Trade monopoly was originally a private corpora-
tion, but was, in 1T74, ac(pured by the Danish (Tovernment, of
which it forms a special biweau known as the Uoyal (Jreenland
lH)ard of Trade. The chief stations, or " colonies," arc generally
in charge of an administrator, a chief trader, who is frequently
called ( iovernor by the whalers. The subordinate clerks, known
as assistants or volimteers accordhig to their grades, are placed
in charge of snniller stations.

In the southern inspectorate the four most important districts,
contaiiutig over halt' the population of Greenland, are without
the Arcti(! circle. In these districts are several Moravian mis-
sions, established a centinw and a half ago. They were for a
time as important as the nussions in our own State (»f I'emi-
sylvaiua, which then, strange as it may seem, constituted, with
(Jreenland, a diocese, which \vas visited by the same bishop.

The face of the earth has changed, and now no Moravian
missionarv wends his wav to Peimsvlvania, bearing to its suffer-
ing proselytes sympathy and charity from the natives of (Jreen-
land. By a cm-ious chance, however, commerce keeps up the
coimection, and the cryolite of Jvigtut linds its way through
Philadelphia to the industries of the world.

1 1 :xrbor,
jwti that
u suart'U

po J'"aro-
uspector-
dUtricts.
preseiita-
>ctciit. s\i-
acts in a

; corpora-
[luieiit, oi
ireenlaiul
generally
'rocpiently
<^, known
ire placed

t district !i,
; without
,ivian niis-
ere for a
oi' I'enn-
iti'd. with
ishop.
Moravian
its suffer-
of (irecn-
)s lip the
y through

:n'|ii|iliiMi:ii':i'iiiri>'i;ii'i!iliiillii

i!J]i|i,i,>l|i!J,l!|ij||||!;

I
t

^m^t^mmmfmmif^gf^Sji

VI P P

■ fj ■

i\\liil

■?Vs

GREENLAND.

Tlio cryolite deposit .it Iviiitnt was discovered by (iiesecku
in JS()(). A license to work it was granted in ISoT, and in
eit,diteen years, says Rink, eiglity-foiu- thonsand tons were
mined, for which Denmark received nearly S530' >,000 royalty.

Whalel)one, oil, leathers, eider-down, skins of the seal, fox,
hear, and reindeer, form the greater balance of the exports, ag-
gregating annually, foi- all Greenland, ^33,000 in value.

The coast line free fi'oni inland ice in this inspectorate aver-
ages ])crhaps sixty miles in width. Crowberries, bog, and red
whortleberries are found in favorable localities. Copses of
birches, alders, and willows prevail, the trees attaining occasion-
ally a height of ten or twelve feet.

The chief colony, (Jodthaab, (i'J' 1 1' X., was one of the Inter-
national C'ircumpolar Stations. Its population, including the
adjacent mission, is nearly three hundred. It is the residence
of the lloyal Inspector of Southern (ii'ceidand; has a bi'ick
church, a seminary, and the usual houses for the Danish
oilicials.

New Ilerridiut and Lichtenfols, the two Moravian com-
nunuties, are represented by liink as contrasting unfavorably
Avith (iodthaab. Of their population he says they " numbered
TT;5 in is.").-), TU in ISC.d, and ~u\s in l,sT2. This striking de-
crease is not owing to any accidental cau.se, but merely to a
prevailing mortality arising from the misei'able condition t)f the
natives belonging to these communities as regards their habi-
tation.s, clothing, and whole mode of life." liiidc's iigm-es nuist
be accepted, but his opinions can scarcely be considered con-
clusive reirarding these missions oC a reliiiious faith differinir
from that of the Danish officials.

It is a matter of interest that the estimated population of the
ancient N'orse .settlements — ten thousand souls — coincides
closely with the population as given by Crantz a century

« ^

■■IB

■M

Tiii:i:i<: yeaus of aiu tic skiivice.

and a halt" ago, ami as (Ictcrinined liy tlin Daiiisli coiisiia uf
l:ito years.

Niiiiierous traces of tlie Noisoiiuiii are yet visible in tiiis iii-
spet'torato in the shaj)e of interesting ruins, eight of which are
churches, the most remarkable being the Kakortok Church near
•f ulianchaab.

The northern inspectorate is better known from the annual
visits of whalers to (ioclhavn and I'pernivik. At the former
station, called Licvely by the Knglish whalers, tlie Danish in-
spector resides. An excellent lanil-locked harbor insures se-
curity to visiting ships.

'i'lie inlaiul ice, which in the southern part of this inspectorate
retreats nearly a hundred miles from the outer shores, almost
reaches the sea-coast in the extreme north, and delH)uches into
ice fiords at .hdcobshavn and Tpernivik. These remarkable
Hords yearly send out hundreds of icebergs, many of winch find
their way into the Atlantic.

As uuglit be supjwsed the Eskimo live pi'incipally by hunt-
ing and fishing. Seals, white whales, birds, und lish alVoi'd
seven-eighths of their subsistence, the balance being bread,
pease, and barley from the Trade.

The natives learn quickly the rudiments of a haiulicraft, and
iiuiny find employment in government service. As neither
industry nor commerce exists in Cxreenland, tlio only outlet for
energy and al)ility, apart from hunting and fishing, is in the
Royal Trade. About ten per centum gain a livelihood in gov-
ermiient service, fifteen by fishing, and seventy-five by seal-
hunting.

The seal, when caught, affords idubberand skin, wliich is sold
to the Trade for the catchers' profit ; but the flesh or meat is by
force of ]Miblic opinion almost common property from the
obligation of the hunters to shai-e with their neighbors. The

(JUICKNI.AXI).

1S\19 (»f

this iii-
lich !iru
rch near

.! luimial
; former
misli in-
gures se-

pcetorato
js, almost
clics into
imarlvublo
ihich iind

l»y hmit-
•h ai'tord
;f l)reail,

■rai't, and
,s neitlier
•utlet foi-
ls in the
(id in gov-
o by seal-

lirh is sold

meat is by

from the

hors. The

niojicy received for skin and l)lubber goes for coffee, bread,
cotton goods, sugar, and tobacco in tlie order named. Intoxi-
cating drinks are not sold. AUhongh nnicli relishing spirituous
liquors the (Jreeidanders are not given to intoxication,

One-lifth the an.ount paid for articles sold to the Tiade is
held as a Poor Fund, whicii is distributed by a council com-
])osed of the missionary, a trade ollicial, and certain elected
representatives, only providers being eligible to the juisition.
This council determines to whom an<l in what way aid shall be
given, discriminating l)etween the necessities sjiringing from
idleness and those from misfortime. The finul remaiidng un-
distributed each sj)ring •.-> divided among hunters and lishers
who have imt rerpiired assistance the previous season.

The naturally ann'able qualities of the Kskiiuo have been
fostered by the (Christianizing inlluences of the Danish pastors
and the ^Moravian missionaries. Religious and instructive
books liave been printed in Eskimo text, and a largo portion
tif the natives read, although but few of them can write. In
general they are devout, honest, truthful. Their vices are
negative. A gentle folk, violence and theft are rarely known
among them, and in twelve years but one nuirder, and that in
passion. The municipal council investigate and punish offences,
which are generally trivial, but they have no means of enforcing
punishment, which is usually light, such as denial of trade
privileges, which entails aVtstention from bread and coffee.
Occasionally temporary expulsion from the settlemen't is de-
creed.

Marriages, christenings, and burials conform to Christian
usages. Dancing and singing festivals are favorite anuisc-
inents, and coffee parties are fashionable for birthdays and
other anniversaries.

Two-thirds of the houses are miserable, partly underground

1
1

•A2

Tiii:i:i; ykaks oi aimviio skiivick.

hovels, witli IK) iia-aiiB oi" lit-atiii^ or cuukiiig except the Eskiino

Men and women are aliUo clothed with jacket mid troiiseis.
The jacket is a hooded jumper with opeiiiti<^s only for fact and
hamls. The hood is em,"''j;ed when necessary so as to aduiit of

Arctic Bellas.

nil infant Iiciiii;' carried inside against the woiiKin's hack The
women's trousers are vei'V narrow and exteu'' i Idps

to knees, so that a l>it of white ch'' een at

tiie waist, and a portion of the ii ilii_ <i\'v knee.

Formerly tlie womeirs jumper had o fla]i ,uid reached far
hclow tlic hips, hut fashion has changed a that. The outer
clothing was once entirely of seal>kiii, but i:ow the jumjter is

\ w

OUKKN'LAXn.

Eskiiiio

tronsorn.
fact and
adiiiit <»t"

The
lii|)ri
t'li at
knee,
ilicd far
'he outer
uinper is

frcciuently of cotton cloth. The women's hoots, of variegated
white, red, and j)iiri)le leather, are elahonitely ornamented with
fancy seams. Ijoots, trousern, and jiuniu.'rrt are tiometinies
trimmed with fancy fur.

Th(! K-skimo hoot is of smooth, well-tanned sealskin, which
resists occasional innnersion in water. The soles projecting at
lacl and toe are skilfully curved up and nnited to the uppers, in
such a nninner tliat no seam is fotmd on a hearing surface.

The women gather their hair in tufts on the very top of the
head, the central tuft rising an inch or two ahove the outer
circlet. The size of the tuft is a nuitter of pride, and in tying
the hair up gay rihhons arc niiich in vogue, which hy their
ciilor of red, yellow, or green hetoken the woman's condition as
maid, wife, or widow.

Althougli liard working and industrious on occasion, yet
there is an almost universal spirit of improvidence. Tho
raternal care of the Danish (iovernment is the onlv thina:
which stands hetween the Eskimo and ultimate extinction.
The Iloyal Trade indeed forhids free traffic, and purchases the
result of the hunt at a nominal price, hut when bad seasons
come and starvation impends, the natives are fed at its expense.
The charity of the officials, however, is not always effective in
warding off starvation.

A famine in 185G-57, in Southern Greenland, caused hy the
failure of the seal catch, resnlted in the death of a hundred and
forty i)ersons, owing to the impracticability of communicating
with the supply stations.

The mean annual temperature of Soiithern Greenland (33°)
is about the same as that of the lied liiver Valley in Dakota,
but correspondingly low temperatures are not known, as —50°
has never been noted at any Greeidand settlement. The
climate resembles much that of Northern Norway.

TIIUEE YEARS OF AKCTIC SEUVICE.

Tlio mean teinpeniturc at the Jiortlieni stations ra])idly de-
creases after crossing tlio Arctic circle, and at I'pornivik is
13° for the rear and — lU.3' for Febrjiarv. Tlie coldest month
ever noted was — 2().G° at Upcrnivik, Jannary, iST-t. Tlie
highest single temperature recorded ^vas (58° and the lowest
— 47°. At LTpernivik the extremes in the past ten years have
l)oen +59.':" and -39.6°.

Upertiivik.
I The must northerly civiiUed settlement in the u-kole n-avld. 1

Sonic further statistics relating to (Jrccnland will he found in
the appendices.

It is not generally known that two ice-streams exist in J)avis
Strait, with a belt of open water 1)etwccn the greater part of
the year. The one on the American side carries the Baffin
liuy ice steadily southward. That on the (ireenland side is a
narrow offshoot of the Spitzbergen ice-stream, which, I'ounding

r!i])idly de-
pern ivik is
dest moiitli
1ST4. The
the lowest
years liave

GKEKNLAND.

Cajic Farewell from the east coast, extends northward to the
neighhorhood of (iodthaah. I'orts to the southward of that
place are i-cached oidy .hy i)assing to the northward of this
stream. It is only after the Arctic circle is crossed that the
open sea of Davis Strait is liable to be frozen over, and even
then it is not a solid covering, but rather a cemented drifting
pack which moves steadily soutlnvard, as sliown by the drift of
the Advance, the Fox, ami the Polaris P'li-ty.

Greenland, from Cape York northward, is treated of in other
portions ot this M'ork, but to that point from the last Danish
settlement, latitude T.T 24', extends three hundred miles of un-
known coast, probably covered by the inland ice to its very
shore. This desolate region has, as far as we know, never been
trodden by the for.t of man, and its very outlines will doubtless
remain unknown un.il among the Danes another adventurous
(Jraah shall rise up, to search out and tell us the mysteries of
that vacant land.

be found in

;ist in Davis
ater part of
; the BatTin
md side is a
•b, rounduig

':,'! ',

English Cairn, S. E. Gary Island, I'-'/S.
I lhii)in Uinvova'eil Una iahiiul, lljlij. 1

CILAI'TER IV.

ORGANIZATION AND EtiUH'^ENT.

fTIIlE organization and equipment of the Lady Franklin Hay
Expedition were accomplished under great disadvantages,
arising not only from inadecpiate moans, but from the avowed
hostility to the work of the Cabinet chief, imder whose charge
it necessarily was. Ko friendly board of Arctic experts, with
lavish fimds at its command, assisted by its counsel and advice,
l)nt the preparation in this case devolved entirely on the com-
manding officer of the expedition. The detailed recpiisitions
for food, clothing, and other supplies were prepared in seventy-
two hours, and imder stress of knowledge that the question of
sending the expedition depended very largely on the character
and quantity of supplies asked for. Although assigned to com-

«IP

OKCrAXIZATIOX AXD KQUIPMENT,

inaiitl ^larc'li lltli, tlio whole nuittcr was later held in .iheyance
by Ml'. Lincoln, then Secretary of AVar, and until April 1st,
despite the personal efforts of Senator Conger and the persist-
ent labors of General llazen, it was undecided if the expedition
should go. Tiie formal approval (General Order i}."), War De-
partment) was not issued until April 12th, barely two months
])rior to the departure of the main party.

The detailed orders as to the organizatioTi and duties of the
Lady Franklin Bay Expedition appear elsewhere.

The plan contemplated the transportation of the expedition in
a chartered vessel from St. John's, Newfoundland, to Lady
Franklin l'>ay, where the party was to establish their quarters,
the ship returning. A steamer was lo visit the station annually
with supplies and recruits. Several designated vessels were care-
fully inspected u..der directions from the Secretary of the Xavy,
and from those reported to be fit for the service the steamer
Proteus was selected. She was a new (7 years old) barkentine-
rigged steamer of oak, ^vith two compound engines ; 110 horse-
power ; Mi" tons register; hail an iron arni(d prow, and was
sheathed with ironwood from aljove the water-line to below
the turn of the bilge. She had been built for the sealing busi-
ness luulcr personal supervision of her ownci's, and conformed
in all respects to the most ajiproved methods of construction for
iise in heavy Arctic ice. Her screw was self-lifting, she had
spare rudder and propeller, and was in every respect suitable for
the projected work. Her mastei", Richard J*ike, had for many
years been engaged in the dangerous seal-fishery of the Labrador
ice, and was one of the most experienced captains and ice-navi-
gators of Newfoundland. His crew were selected men from the
hardy fishermen of that island. The charter of this vessel con-
suuhhI over three-fourths of the appropriation, leaving less than
six thousand dollars for the special outfit of the party.

i !

, I

TIHIEE YEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

I July,

This small sum was ecoiioiTiically spent for our supply of
coal, scientific instrnnierts, boats, dogs, dog-food, special woollen
and fur clothing, pemiuican, liini'-juico, spirits, special articles
of diet, natural history supplies, table and household c(pii])age,
etc. Xothiug was purchased except after most careful con-
sideration as to its necessity and cost. In consequence many
very desirable articles were omitted, and in "11 cases the su]>]ily
reduced to a miinnunn. The War Department declined to
facilitate or make special the re(piisition for the appropriation,
whi''h was not available, in any event, until duly 1st. In conse-
(pience, rather than abandon the undertaking, it became neces-
sary at the last moment to guarantee many bills for special arti-
cles purchased. Fi>r friendly sei'vices in this as in other impor-
tant rcopects, both the expedition and niysell" weretmder special
obligations to ]\lajor Charles Appleby, of New York.

The various bureaus of the War Department furnished ex-
cellent arms and aiuiuunitioii, clothing, and camp e(piipage
(ai'iiiy j^attern only), hospital stores, and the usual iield supply
of medicines. Ample subbistence stores, of superior quality,
were furiushed on requisition for sale to ofFicers and men.

Lieutenant Kislingbury and two men left New York, ]\Iay
31st, to supervise the stowing of cargo. On dime IJ-th the maiii
party, under command of Lieutenant James 13. Lockwood, sailol
from Baltimore for St. John's on the steamer Xova Scotian.

Professor Daniel 0. (rilman, J 'resident of Join s IIo])kin3
Fniversitv, took a decided interest in this scientific work of in-
tcrnational importance. His desire to evidence this in some
])ublic mnmier, in conjunction with other j)rominent Balti-
n '.vans, wi thoroughly appreciated. The early hour of sail-
i;"r ii'id the innited time the party coidd remain in Baltimore,
were cogent reasons why his kindly thought assumed no tangi-
ble form.

1881.]

ORGANIZATION AND EQUIPMENT.

I liad lioped to snil from St. John's, XowfomuUniul, July 1?',
])iit tlie coiulition of affairs was such on my arrival at tliat point,
on Juno 27th, as to render it impossil^le. Certain essential sup-
plies had not arrived, and the stores on board the Proteus were
in iMulless confusion. The Secretary of the Navy had kindly
ruiiiislied a small steam-launch, hut its holler proved entirely
unsuitable for salt-water, and had to be replaced at St. John's.
Such results necessarily llowed from a policy which rendered it
obligatory to perfect in two months and a half the outlitting of;
a party destined for over two years' sej)aration from the rest of
the world. Though succeeding experiences jiroved that no
article really essential to health or success was wanting, yet
other results might have easily followed, and cei'tain deliciences
did occur which, in longer time, could have been remedied to
our later plcasm-e and comfort.

As to the members of the expedition, it is hardly necessary to
remark that all were highly reconnni'iiilcd, passed a strict medi-
cal examination, and wei'o volunteers. Lieutenant Kislingbury,
ill a service ol" over llfteen years, had a fine reputation for field
duty. Lieutenant J.oc^kwood had served eight years, almost
always on the frontier, and was highly reconmiended as an
oflicer of sterling merit and varied at'ainments.

Edward Israel and freorge W. 'tice, in order to accompany
the expedition, cheerfully accepted service as eidisted men. The
f(.rnier, a graduate of Ann Arbo • T'niversity, went in his chosen
])rofession as astronomer, while ilie latter, a professional ])hoto-
grapher, hoped to add to his n^putation in that art by service
with the expedition. Sergeants Jewell and Kalston had served
long and faithfully as meteorological observers; while Ciardiner,
tiiough of younger service, was most jiroinising. J^ong and
hazardous duty on the Western frontier had inured the greater
part of the men to dangers, hardships, and exposure, and de-

40 TIIRKE YEAirS OF ARCTIC SEIIVICE. [July, 1881.

veloped in thorn that (jiiality uf lielpfuhiess so essential in
Arctic service.

On July 4th, with all on hoard, the rroteus dropped to
anchor off (Queen's wliarf, awaiting the final supplies. They
came on the 7th, and at Tioon of that day we passed the majestic
cliffs which form the narrows of St. Jolni's, and turned our
prow toward Greeidand with fine weather, blue sky, and favor-
ing wind.

There was a touch of sadness mingled with our exultation;
for, while we sped on to the icy north, not only were loving
hearts left behind us in the sinmy south, but our great nation
with bated breath was watching over its dying chief.

tmmmmm

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'I Ij

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'f\W!r^

i I

CHAPTER V.

THE VOYAP.E TO UJ'EKNIVIK. July, 1881.

"OONAVISTA with its pliiiiiiii? I'nl't '^^'^^ passed tlie evening
"^ of the 7th, from whicli point wo lioped — and not in vain
— to he rcporto(h A few scattei'od icehoi'gs were seen he-
tween Funk Lshmd and the straits of l>elle Isle, the liiiijiering
vcinnants of the enormous ice-lields which cover the ^'ewfound-
huid waters during the spring months.

Xorthwesterly gales and thick weather delayed us, but on the
I3th we were in Davis Strait off Frederickshaab, where the
iirst ice was encountered. The pack was a loose one and con-
sisted of two streams of ice from ten to thirty miles wide, which
in IK) way impeded the ship's progress. These Hoes were off-
shoots of the great Spitsbergen ice-stream which, drifting down
the coast of East (Greenland, are set along the west shore by
the ])revailing northerly current. The greater part of the ice
ranged from three to five feet above the water, and almost with-
out exception each piece was deeply grooved at the water's
edge, evidently by the action of the waves. Above and below
the surface of the sea projected long tongue-like edges. The
novel and fascinating scene engaged the attention of all.

The advancing and receding waves along the tongues of ice
continually changed their aspect, and gave forth colors Avhich
resolved themselves into indescribable hues of great beauty.
The most delicate tints of blue mingled quickly and indistin-

I']

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m '1

!
1

TIIKKK Y1;AK8 OK AKOTK! 8P:ilVI('K.

[July,

guisliably into those of rare light grcoii, to Ik; siiceocded hitor as
the water receded from the tloe's side, by shades tif l)liiish white.
Ot'casioiial Hoes were twelve or tiftceti feet high and in these at
times the level surfaces gave way f<> iiiiinaclcs {>r Iniimnoeks.

The temperature of tlie
surface water fell IViiiii I'orty
to thirtv-live dcirrces on en-

4/ ~

tering the pack, and rose t<>
thirty-eight on passing it.
At live fathoms in the pack
it was thirty-four degrees.

On the 14th, oft' (iodthaal),
the fog lifted and permitted
our tirst glimpse of (ircen-
laiid. The mountains rise

Natural Monument near Godhawn. ^Ffom a Photograph.)

some three thousand feet, displaying their glacial garb as a fit-
ting border to the desolate coast in the foreground.

The northerly gale broke sufficiently on the 1-ith to afford
ti'limpses of the sun, and our noonday observation — the first of

IS«1.]

THE VOYAOK TO Ul'KUNIVIK.

4:1

ilio vovajjo — ])]:ice<l im within tho Arctic cirdp. Tlui l)loak
hiiililaiids of Dirtco were liiddeii by aJi Arctic f(»j^, and oidy di«-
cldsed tlieniKt'lves, uftc'r liours ctf tedious waiting on tlie oveiiiiij^
of tho ir)tli, when wo found ourselves l)ut a few niilos from
(iodhavn. Tho south coast of Disco Island rises precipitously
pouio twenty-five liundred feet out of the sea, and in soiik;
seventy miles it breaks only at (Iodhavn, to form a secure ami
land-locked liarhor Tlui entraiu-o is so hidden, liowcvcr, that
in making it one seems to he heafthing \]h\ vessel, until an abrupt
turn leads to the trantpiil cove in front of tlu; \ery settlement.

As we I'utered, a small gun belched forth a salute, and the
T>:uiisli llag was displayed from tho station's flagstalT. Our
vessel was hardly anchored when a kindly gentleman, evidently
of Scandinavian (trigiu. boarded it, and in good Knglish bade us
welcome to Disco. It was Ilei'r Krarup Smith, tho fioyal In-
spector of Ts'orth (Jreenland, an ollicial of imvarying courtesy,
whose helpful kindness and advice was always at tho command
of whaler or e.\])lorer. His deatli in ^Fay, 1S82, created a void
ill Xortlieni (ireenland which it will be difhcult to fill.

Inspector Sniitb was about leaving for his annual tour of in-
spection to 1 jHTiiivik, on the Danish bi'ig which lay in the
harbor. Jle delayed his departiwe a day that lu; might extend
to the expedition all postiible assistance.

The usual visits of ceremony were duly made, and later tho
otlicers of the party dinc-d with Mrs. Smith. The dinner was a
surprise to us all, as we expected but little variety in that part of
the globe. A tiny bouipiet <)f cultivated llowers for each, first
greeted our vision. The princijjal dishes were fresh (Ireenland
salmon of delicate llavoi-, larded eider-ducks, and tender Arctic
ptarmigan ; all served with excellent wines.

licgarding vegetables, it should bo said that, except radishes,
lettuce, etc., they are imported canned, as they will not grow at

'[|i

TUKKK YKAIJS OK AllCTIC HKRVICK.

[July.

(uxlhavn. TliLTo was no irosli nifut there except ii little which
wo were able to spare, lleiiuleer (whieli i"i»nuerly loained over
Diseo alone of the (ireenhind islands) is the favorite meat with
Europeans, thouj^h many relish seal meat. The latter, though
tender and juicy, lias a slightly sweetish taste, which is us un-
]>alatablo to some as its coarse dark meat is unpleasiiig to the
eye.

At (lodhavn it is a case of the mountain and the sea, for as
you turn vowr back to Disco ]»av theclilTs surinij: over two thou-
sand feet out of the very water. The upper half, a dark beet-
liuiT precipice, impresses one equally by its grandeur and des-
olation. The lower half is clothed more or less with vegeta-
tion, and at one point a break in the cliff leaves a sloping valley,
through which glides a sparkling bnxtk, which from above
plunges wildly down its bed of rugged rock. This brook hardly
seems an Arctic one, as its l)anks and borders are covered with
a vegetation which would bo luwiriant I'ven in lower latitudes.
The valley is called the '• heath-tiekl," and the visitor well be-
lieves the statement that it is the best botanical spot of (ireen-
land, ami that over forty varieties oi plants can there bo
gathered.

The surroundings of (Jodhavn are striking and impressive.
The settlement itself is situated on a small syenite island, which
is sparsely covered with soil and vegetation. Its highest point
is of scarcely a hundred feet elevation, but so mnnerous were
the icebergs on that July day, that from it more than a hun-
dred could be counted at once.

These huge masses of castellated ice broke with their snowy
whiteness the monotony of the sea, and as they drifted past,
drew after them unceasiniily our thouichts and attention. In
general, these white-w-inged ships were silent messengers of
peace, but in entering the harbor our gentle swell struck lazily

t I

iij

1881. J

rilK VOYAOK TO UP K UN IV IK.

niul softly a boautiliil borg of lofty iircliort, Hlondor pinnacles,
and stately colonnades, down the sides of which miniature tor-
rents poured. It needed but this slij^ht impulse to destroy it«
equilibrium, and in an instant it burst into countless fragments
which whitened the sea with foam, and rolled Inigo billows in all
directions. The thundering report startled us all, and the re-
sistless forco sliuwn by this moimtain of ico inspired tho least
imprcssivo with feelings of awe.

The external aspects of tho colony of Godhavn icpresent well
the principal trading stations of (ireenland. The few dwelling-
houses for the Danish otHclals are commoidy wooden structures
with thick walls of rough hewn logs, which insure thorougli dry-
ness andsutRcient warmth. Tho dark tarred walls are relieved
by white or red window-casings, and generally the roof has a
reddish tinge quite in consonance with the predominating color of
the adjacent rock-masses. It is pcu-haps needless to say that tho
interiors of these houses aro Danish liomes, and that in somo
of them one would not know, save from tho trim, neatly-dressed
Eskimo servants, that it was tJreeidand and not Denmark.
Several of the latest books lay on tho table at Inspector Smith's,
and we were favored with piano accompaniments for many
songs, from The Star Spangled I'anner to Denmark's national
anthem. A neat church with spire and bell, the indispensable
trade storehouses, with workshops and oil manufactory, con-
clude the list of Government buildini's.

The Eskimo houses are, as a rule, very poor, generally stono
and turf structures lined with wood, and pi-ovided with tho
usual wooden, raised platform, serving :as a bench by day and
for a bed at night. Tho better class of houses replace the flat
roof of dirt and turf by a sloping one of wood, and, besides
adding a wooden floor, substitute glass for the old membranous
panes from the intestines of the seal.

(

TIIUKE YEAKS (tF AllC TIC SERVK'K.

[July,

One rarely can stand erect in a lionse, and the odors peculiar
to the universal Eskimo lani]>, united to others, ai'o hardly less
tryin<; within, than are the strong-smelling luaps of refuse with-
out, the doors. A cursory view of their interiors was encugli
fur me. and it seems strange that the enforced conditions, under
which the inmates of these densely-crowded huts pass the long
Aivtic winter, do not cause greater ravages by disease.

A very shoi't \'\At ti> an Kskinu) dance, whicli was given in
honor of our arrival, was sufficient to conviiK-e me that the
natives understand how to enjoy sucli gatherings, but did not
awaken any inclination to participate therein, though others of
the expedition thought otherwise. In Greenland as elsewlierc*,
chacun a son (tout.

On landing you are at oiu-e impressed with the number and
character of the «logs. The dog is an important animal in
Northern (Ireenland, and he seems to kiiow his vantage, lie
looks on every stranger as an enemy, who unist be watched aiul
harassed. Tiiey are annoying oidy on their own domain, aiid
r.re experts in those false attacks whicli are trying to one .-. tt.'m-
I^er and digiuty.

It is amusi'ig, when not personally interested, to lote how
suddenly a snai'ling, yelling pack, snapping at one's heels, will
turn pnd ii -c when tliev near the "'round of some other kin«r.
lie is r ran dog, indeed, wh. dares travel alone through the
entire village of Godha\ n. A stick or stone generally quiets a
pack, but occasionally, when very harshly treated, and when long
.star\i'd they are dangerous to children, and even, though very
rarely, to men.

O.ir team purchased at (lodhavu were stout, '-urly animals of
apparevitly incurable viciousness, which, as we shall sec 'ater,
completely vanished under Lhe benign iitluences of kind treat-
ment and irood food.

^ .V.

lt*81.I

THE VOYA^^"}; TO UPEUNIVIK.

Twelve (logs wit a siij)ply of dog-food -were jmrcliascd, and
tlie house and })onnnicaii, stored there hy the iiiifortiuiate llow-
gate expedition of 18>SU, were taken on board.

On July 2()tli ])r. Octave ]*avy arrived from Jlitenbenk,
where ho had passed the preceding year as naturalist of the
llowgate expedition, lie was contracted with as an acting
assistant surgeon of the army for duty with the expedition, and
took the oath of service that da}'.

The last hours at (Jodhavn Mere given t<> our mail, as two
days later a Danish hrig was to sail from Egedesminde, which
should "onvey to oin- friends hy the end of August full news of
our safe arrival in (Jreeidand. A few hours' steaming on the
morning of July 21st, took us along the hold, high coast of
Disco Island to the entrance of ^Vaigat Strait. Along this
coast for fifty miles to the eastward no shelter exists for ves-
sels, and for over iive miles from Godhavu, the most active
iiiount:iineer would search in v;un for a foothold to scale its
precipitous cliffs.

Our passage was a charming one with frowning barren crags
to our left, aiul to (tur right the smooth bUu' sea, doited with
countless beri;s of endless variety, bright and beautiful under
Arctic sunshine. Uut " I)y and by a cloud took all away," for
a dense Arctic fog shut (piickly down, and made it dilHcult for
our sharp-eyed Immit pilot to guide the I'roteus safely to anchor-
age in the narrow docp ilord which separates liitenbeidc fi'om
Arveprins Island.

The governor bore a name well known in connection with
Orceidand, M(irch. Half Dane, half Eskimo, a man of refine^
ment ami sentiment, he luid l)een educated in the nH)ther coun-
try, and had coirio to do service in his native clime. lie made
us at hfinie in Uitenbeidv. and greeted us with genuine Scandi-
navian liospitality. The same old Danish brig, Tialfe, which

I :

1 1^

11^

mi'.

T^T

i ■'

TIIRKE YEARS OF AUCTIO SERVICE.

[July,

' (

Hayes found at Uperiiivik in 1800, was in tlie harbor, ami wo
dined with the governor and her ulllcers that evening. At tlic
end of the meal the old Scandinavian eustoni of grace, by nni-
versal handshaking and the salutation, "^luch good may it do
you," iirst fell under my notice.

A number of dogs, with additional food and other supplies,
were obtained at Ilitenbenk. The new-comers were not at all
welcomed by the old <logs, and a series of battles cununencetl
which never ended to the very day of t)ui' retreat.

Mr. Henry Clay joined the expedition at Jlitenbenk, as a
military employe at a nominal salary. The gi-andson of Henry
Clay the great commoner, a cultivated, retined gentleman, aiid
an ardent sportsinan, ho had l)ecome thoroughly ind)ued with a
longing for Arctic experiences. He had joined the Howgato
expedition of 18S0, iuid also obtained authority to accompany
the present one, and, to lit himselt for some part of the work,
he had spent the preceding year with I>r. Pavy in Creeidand.

While stores were being ])urchased, dogs brought on board,
and accounts adjusted, and as the fog still held, I sent Lieu-
tenant Lockwood with a boat's -jrew to the loomery on Arve-
prins Island for birds. They were only moderately successful,
owing to the height of the lower ledges above the sea, and
brought back but sixty-tive Eruemucirs guillemots (Alca arra),
which were simply 'Irawn, and hung uj) in the rigging to dry
for future food.

The bird dilVs on Arvc])rins Ishiinl desor'o a ])assing notice,
not for /vrctic travellers, but for the gmeral n-adi'r.

For ovi-r a thousand fec;t out of tlu; sea tlu'se .lifl's rise ])er-
pendicaiarly, broken only by ikhiow- ledges, in general inacces-
sible to man or other I'liemy^ which alt'ord certain kiiuis of sea-
fow! secure .nul (Minvenicnt breeding-places. On the face of
these sea-ledges of Arveprins Island Hruennich's guillemots, or

WfV

! |i

■■R

^am

J ^ (-H.'

1881.]

TIIK VOYAGE TO UPERNIVIK.

looms, gather in the brce<liiig season, not by thousands, but by
tens of tliousands. Each hvys but a single gray egg, speckled
witli brown, yet so numerous are the birds, that eveiy available
spot is covei'ed with eggs. The sui'prising part is that each
bird knows its own egg, although there is no nest and it rests
on the bare rock. Occasional quarrels over an egg generally
result in a score of others being rolled into the sea.

The clumsy, short-winged birds fall an easy prey to the
sportsman, ])rovided the cliffs are ikjL too high, but nuuiy fall
on lower inaccessible ledges and so uselessly perish. A single
.shot brings out thousands on the wing, and the unpleasant cack-
ling, which is continuous when undisturbed, 1- . ..-s a deafen-
ing clamor when they are hunted.

The eggs are very palatable. The Horfli i., excellent; to my
taste, the best flavored of any Arct c sea-fowl, but, to avoid the
slightly train-oil taste, it is necessar: to keep the bird to ripen,
and to carefully skin it before cooki.ig. The looms obtained on
Arveprins Island and Siinderson's Hope were a great addition
to our table the following spring.

The littte auk {JLiyeUus allc) and the dovekie {U-ria (jrylle)
similarly breed in large mnnbers farther north, and generally
the fulmar yProcellar'm glacialis) and glaucous gull {Lams
(jlaiiCHx) resort for nesting to like cliffs.

If you go to Uitenbenk, you must sec the garden, the most
famous in Xorthern CJrcenland. It is a small pl(,t, scarcely fifty
feet by forty, surrounded by a substantial fence to keep out the
ubi(piitous dog, and on one side has a miniature garden-house
with sashed windows, where the governor sits and enjoys the
growing vegi'tables, which comprise lettuce, onions, I'adishes,
parsley, and turnips. The soil was in large part originally
l»ri)ught from I)(Mimark, and has been supplemented by earth
from old Greenland houses, and so is rich and strong. This

! ,

1
1

11:

THREE YEAKS OF AKOTIC SERVICE.

[July,

liriglitspot of green contrasted most delight fully with the bleak,
brownish syenite of the otherwise barren island.

]t gave nic nnich pleasure, sitting awhile in the summer-
house, to listen to the good governor and enjoy the grand
scenery, while I heard, in answer to an idlecjuestion, that an old
Eskimo over the mountain toward Tnianak had a dozen lions,
which laid eggs a part of the year, and which he traded only for
schnapps. '

The snowy peaks of Ivangek half-veiled in curling clouds the
lovely blue of Disco Bay, and the countless icebergs ever drift-
ing southward from the ice-fiords near, pleased the eye, while
the torrents of Arveprins Island plunging into the sea made
nuisic for the ear. It seeins now to me the most idyllic <if my
Arctic experiences,

Ilitenbenk was foumlcd inlT.")."). It is situated on a small
island of the same name, which lies to the eastward of the more
important Arveprins Island, from which it is separated by a
narrow, deep iiord. The scenery around it was truly grand.
In genei-al bordering the shores arc steep cliffs, broken by sharp,
narrow ravines, all deeply scored by the impetuous Arctic tor-
rents which throughout the short summer rush headlong into
the tiord.

Opposite to ltitenbeid< the twin peaks of Kangek Mountain
raise their heads over two thousand feet above the sea, and af-
ford views of unequalled magi.'Hcence.

To the northeastward a clcai- and iH-nutiful ])rospect is liad
of the Torsukatak ice-fiord (one of tlie iive remarkable tioj-ds of
Greenland), from which, at a moderate estimate, five nnllioii
cubic yards of ice is discharged ^AfiV//. High latid to tlie south-
ward prevents a view of the ice-fiord of Jacobshavn (which dis-
charges more than double the amount of Torsukatak), but the
entrance to it can be noted. This Iiord is interesting, not only

:fS

■a

1881.J

'11 IK VOYAOK TO ri'KUXlVIIC.

as the most rcinarkablo ice-iiord, with its central glacier ])oint
advancing over sixty feet into the sea daily, Itnt as having for
many years been thonght to be the entrance to a strait, which
was believed to extend to tin; east coast, and to divide (Jreen-
land into two parts.

From Ilitenbenk we ?' amed slowly northward through the
AVaigat Strait, which separates J)isco Island from the main-
land. Low clouds covered in many places the high land, which
on either hand rose from three to four thousand feet in precipi-
tous heights, which generally reached the very sea on the island,
but which were abutted on the main-laud by fi'c(|U('iit, gentle
slopes, covered by pleasing verdure. Along tlie.I)isco coast are
a number of coal-mines, which have been hnown a century and
a half, but which are rarely worked. The coal answers indilfer-
eiitlv for steaming ])nrposes, but is excellent fuel for general
use.

The main-land along the AVaigat is the Xoursuak l^eninsnla,
an extensive laud, far from the inland ice, di'ained by one of
the largest rivei's in Greenland, and clothed witli u vegetation
of remarkable luxuriance. Near its extremity is the most
northerly remains which are from othei* than Eskimo hands, a
remarkable ruin, usually called the? IJear Tia[).

AVe were not ill-pleased to sight Hare Island, and enter the
free sea of J>atfin JJay, just as strong wind and rain t'ame. The
navigation of the AVaigat is extremelv dan<rerous in fo<i'i;-v and
stormy weather, owing to the thousands of icebergs which are
ever present in its waters.

Occasionally the clouds broke, and afforded fine views of
the rugged, rock-I)ouud coast, which is of the most precipitous
character. Though much ])leased with Svarte llids;, yet our
interest centred in Sander -on's Hope, that beautiful, command-
ing headland, which was sighted by John Davis three centuries

' i I'

WHP

TIIliKE YEAllS OF AIJCTIC SKHVICE.

[.Tuly,

air*"*. The capriclonsness of an Airtic sumiuer cut off l)y its fog
all view ubovo tliat point, and mo lay many tedious hour.s off
I'pernivik until a favoring wind i-ollc(l baek the curtain, an«l
allowed our natixe pilot to show us the safe way into tlio
vretched cove which is called a harluir.

Our iirst experience was a heavy s(|uall, in cninuH'tidn with
a touch of the (ircenland l'n,Iiii, which caused the chatiui;- and
sulxseipient breaking of (Hie of tlie hawsers, and the I'roteus
drifted against a rock, from which she swung free without
danuige, througli ( 'aptain Pike's prompt nu'a^-urcs.

The liist American soldici- eidlstcd in (ireenland was doubt-
less J'rivate Maurice ('oinu!ll of the expedition, who was dis-
charge(l by cxj)iration of tcini of service, and re-enlistcd !it
r])ernivik.

Inspector Snuth had ai'riv(>d In-fore ns, and had interested
himself in the supplies wanti'd. It was found that only ten
suits of clothing, made to order for tlie exjtected Danish inter-
national station, could be procureih and that boots, which we
much needed, could oidy be luid by a week's delay.

The two Eskimo dog-<lrivers weri^ lacking, but two men at
Proven wei-e highly rccommendi'd, and i decided to send for
them. As Proven was some fifty nules to the south, it was
necessary to put the launch Lady Greely (as Lieutenant
Lockwood has christened hen into the water. A severe west-
erly gale 2>i'«-'vented .sailing on the li^th, but the next day, be-
fore the storm had subsided. Lieutenant Lockwood starteil,
acconqianied by (Jovernor Elbeig. They took the inside pas-
sage, between the islands and main-land, but it was necessary at
one point to venture into the open sea. Lieutenant Lockwood
returned on the 2Sth, bringing two Eskimo, Thorlip Freibnik
Christiansen, aged thirty -five, and Jens Edward, aged thirty-
eight. These men Avere contracted with, and joined the exjie-

,',

IWI.

Tin-; \(»vA(iK TO ii'Ki;m\ IK.

(litioii llio s.'uiio (liiy, liriiigiii<j; witli tlioiii tlioii' kivyaks and
liuiitiiii:; imploiiiciits. They ever proved themselves faithful,
iiuliistriuiis, honest, and truthful, as Inspector Smith })ledged
they wunlil.

Lieutenant J.ockwood ohtained a considerahle quantity of
skin clothini:; at I'roven, and Ser<i;eant liice made several pho-
toiiraphs. On th(: retui'ii ti'ip, a few hours' delay at Sanderson's

Sergeant Rice ar^d Cut. L'/,,jtiJ Eskimo. (From ^ Pliotograph.)

Hope resulted in thr addition of one hundred and twenty-seven
hii'ds to oin- lai'der ; i:uillemots (Bniennicirs) and little auks
{M^ergullus alle). Lieutenant Kislinijbury, at the same loomcry,
had also obtained three hnndrcd and live auks and guillemots.
An Eskimo who accompanied Lieutenant Xislingbury's party
witli his kayak while picking np birds capsized, and not hand-
ling his double-ended ]»addlo M'ith sufficient skill to recover
himself, would have perished bnt for assistance from the whale-

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TIIKEK YEARS OK AUCTIC SEltVICK.

[July.

boat, wliicli was promptly reiulorcd by IScrgeaiitd Uraiiiard and
Coiuiull.

During these days I had an opportunity of seeing Upoi'-
nivik and its surroundings. Tlio name in Eskimo means
spring; but, .although Inspector Smith told nio that in fourteen
years it had not before been so green, it did nut present an at-
tractive api)earance. The ishuid, though not very rocky, yet
had a barren, desolate look, witli but few spots of scanty vege-

Taiiusak.
[T/i£ moat Northerly Settteimnt of Daiiish Eslimo.]

tiition. From the liighest ground there is a view of Augpad-

larsok ice-field, which claimed my <laily attention. The lield

sends out thousands of icebergs yearly, and its glacier front is

a sight to be long remend)ered.

To the northward the projecting, rugged coast cut off the

view of Tasiusak, the most northerly of the settlements of tho

Danish Eskimo, a dreary si)ot difficult of access and rarely

visited.

(rovcrnor Elberg showed much courtesy to the expedition,

1881.]

tup: voyage to upkiinivik.

Ijiit his greed for gain appeared io have overcome that sense of
honesty which is bo general in Danish Greenhiiid. His prices
I'ur supplies were very high, ai d his sale of infected dogs
caused the loss of the greater part of my draught animals, and
latfr seriously affected oim- geographical success. I suspected
disease from a dog hung up by the neck, hut its existence was
denied by him.

The usual < ireeidand hospitality was shown us at TTpornivik,
not only by Inspector Snuth and (Jovernor Elberg, Imt also by
the gentle, kindly-heartud Danish j)riest and his good wife,
(ireeidand hospitality is most fre(piently shown in what seems
to bo the only possible way in that remote country — by the
proffer of every variety of wine or licpior in the larder, and in
urging a most indiscrindnate participation of them. It reipures
nmch tact, judgment, and discretion to avoid giving offence by
refusing, and at the same time to escape unpleasant conse-
quences.

At. last the unruly dogs were on board, the bewildering ac-
counts witli Danisli values adjusted and settled, the winding
channels to the westward between rocky islets antl sunken
ledges safely passed, the iinal farewells and hearty (lod-speeds
uttered, and with high hopes and strong courage we left Fper-
nivik and civilization behind, to adventure the dangers of the
hin'li north.

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Upefnivik at Midnight

CllAPTEK \L

MELVILLE BAY TO TOUT CONGER.

"XTTE rail northward until Berry Islands were sighted, and,
noting tlio entire ahsence of ice, other than the nii-
merons bergs from Augpadlarsok fiord, 1 ordered that a direct
course be laid for Cape York, believing that the " middle pas-
sage " would be both practicable and safe at that late season
of the 3"ear, especially as the spring and summer had been so
unusually warm. The ship was rumiing at full speed in an ice-
less sea as I went to rest at midnight. It should be remembered
that we had long been in the region of perpetual daylight, if
not sunlight ; for, though the sun sets not in the far north,
yet the prevalent Arctic fog hides his face for days at a time.

Our run on July 1st was through an open sea, in which no
semblance of a jiack was noted until about 5 p.m. It then con-
sisted of small ])ieces of jiancake ice, which would in no way
interfere with the progress of any steaming vessel ; it was
scarcely three miles long, and barely reached a mile or two to
tlie westward.

]MELVILL7<: BAY TO FOKT CONGER.

As we were passing the northern edge of this pack, a Polar
bear was descried on a small piece of pan-ice. lie was busily
engaged in eating a young seal which he had just caught, and
apparently did not notice the vessel ntitil it was within a half
mile of him. He ran a few yards fruu: llu; ■ al, but Liter re-
turned to it, and, strangely enough, seemed nnicii disinclined to
leave the ice for the water, returning to the Hoe after a tem-
porary plunge. A large number of shots were fired at him
from the vessel, one or more of which seemed to strko him.
The Proteus was stopped and a boat lowered, in which Lieu-
tenants Xislingbury and Lockwood, with one or two others,
effected his capture. He was killed by a bullet, probably from
Lieutenant Kislingbury's ritle, but for many days there were
long and unsatisfactory discussions as to whom should be
awarded the credit for his death.

Our bear was a young one, seven feet six inches long, and
probably of some six hmidred pounds weight. His flesh was
quite palatable, more so, it was generally considered, than that
of the cinnamon of our own C(juntry. He M-as photographed
by Sergeant Rice, and skinned by the Eskimos.

Iso further ice was met with, and at ■! r.M. of the 31st the mate
and quartermaster, through a break in the light fog, sighted
land, which must have been the high cliffs of Cape York. The
fog grew denser, instead of breaking as we hoped, and obliged
the vessel to run at half speed until 8 a.m., when the speed was
reduced to steerage-way, as the dead reckoning put us in the
neighborhood of Cape York. Later the fog broke for a few
moments, and showed land some five miles to the northward,
but closed again before it could be identified. We were obliged
to remain under steerage-way during the rest of the day, and
scarcely ran more than twenty miles.

The renuirkably open condition of Melville Bay had enabled

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TIIllEE TEARS OP ARCTIC SERVICE.

[July,

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Li.

ns to make an nnprccedentcdly rapid crossing, but thirty-six
hours' time being occupied in its passage.

The icG of Melville J3ay is justly dreaded, but in latier years,
steam, experience and modern e(]uipment have done much to
insure the safety of its regular navigators, the hardy whalers,
who brave its dangers at the earliest moment, and under tlie
most unfavorable conditions. For years their vessels have
been bt)ldly pushed into the ice in Max, and at least two soa-

sons have seen them in the "North Water," near Cape York,
as '3arly as June 3d.

Discovery- and relief-ships have hazarded nearly sixty times
the perils of ice-navigation within its limits, and invariably
without loss of life or vessel. This immunity from disaster
has arisen from their usual practice of attempting the passage
of Melville Bay much later than the whalers, — at a time when
navigation is substantially safe, — in July or August. Except
the Relief Squadron of 188-J-, and McClintock in the Fox, I re-
call no vessels of that class which have entered its ice in June.

During the day and evening the compasses unfortunately gave

1881.]

MELVILLE BAY TO FOKT CONGEU.

US inncli trouble, being very shiggish, and consequently unre-
liable.

Several soundings, from six to eight miles west and southwest
of Cape York, gave no bottom at one hundred and eighty-five
fathoms. A layer of warm water was found between the s\u'-
face and the greater depth, the temperature of the surface vary-
ing from 33.2° to 35" ; at five fathoms, 35.7° to 3G.7°; and
at one hundred and eighty-fathoms, 31.5°.

iV youTig male square-Hipper seal {Phoca harbata) was killed
on a detached ice-ilt)e during the dav.

On the morning of August 1st the fog lifted, and the vessel's
position Avas found to be about twenty miles southwest of
Petowik glacier, which lies just northward of "The Crimson
Cliffs " of Sir Julm lloss. A sounding thirteen miles west of
the glaciei- ga\o I'ocky bottom at one hundred and ten fathoms,
and a temperature of 35° at surface and five fathoms, which re-
nuiined steady as we ran inward and oI)tained a second sound-
iuff, with mud bottom at seventv-two fathoms, two miles off the
glacier front. The heavy sea prevented successful photograph-
ing of the glacier.

Some patches of snow of a dirty reddish color were observed
from the Petowik glacier northward toward Wolsteidiolme
Island, being without doubt drifts of the famous red snow,
first discovo'ed by Sir John lloss, in 1818. Though desirous of
obtaining specimens of Protococeus lurallx, which gives the
color to this snow, I was uawilling to land for that purpose
alone. The vegetable character of this phenomena has been
(piite clearly settled by Dr. Ilobert I>rown.

At 10.15 A.M. we were off Wolstenholmo Island, and at 1 p.si,
left it behind, as Ave laitl our course for the Cary group.

Icebergs, which were rare in the neighborhood of Cape York,
were found to bo very numerous near the northern end of Wol-

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TIIRKE YEAHS OF AliCTIO SEUVICE.

[July,

1^'

steiihoimo Islaiul, Jiiid ii one of these a large spot of the (lee\>-
cst and most o.\(^uisite bhie was seen, Avhieh contrasted finely
•\vitli the bhiisli-wliite of the main berjj;, and was sutficiently
marked to renuiia visible for nearly an hour.

The Gary Islands were sighted at 3 r.M., and ibout two hours
later the Proteus stoi)ped at tlie north end ut' the southeast
island of the group. To the southward of this island, at least
thirty large icebergs were soen, evidently grounded, but else-
where there was scarcely a particle of ice in sight.

Lieutenant Kislinifburv and Dr. Paw examined the cairn
erected by Sir George Kares in IS 75, and visited by Sir Alio .
Young in the Pandora (afterward the Jeanette) later that year
and again in ISTO. The records left by the latter officer were
found in good condition, wrapped in a number of the London
Oraj}hic. A copy of these records was left, and a short note
was also deposited, giving a brief account of our visit to the
island.

The enthusiastic phot< grapher of the expedition, assisted by
Bonie of the men, succeeaed with great difficulty in transporting
his apparatus to the summit of the island, which is some five
hundred feet above the sea, and obtained a photograph of the
cairn. The island is so rough in general that it is with some
trouble that an miencunibered man can ascend the greater part
of its cliffs. Vegetation was exceedingly scanty.

The depot of thirty-six hundred i-ations, left by Sir George
Kares in 187."), was found in a small cove at the southern jioint
of the island. The supplies were located on a rocky slutulder,
some thirty feet above the sea, which connnanded Baffin Bay to
the southwestward. The depot was in i^uite good condition,
excepting a certain portion of the bread, which was found to be
somewhat mouldy, though still eatable. The bread which was
bad was in casks which had been left with the head upward,

't<MH>,<Vl^ V"-**-"*— t^

1881.1

MELVILLE BAT TO FORT CONGEPv.

while that in tlio barrels, which were on their sides, appeared to
be in perfect condition. The cans of Australian beef were laid
m rows on the surface of the bare rock, so that they liad been
alternately exjiosed to the direct heat of the sunnner sun and
subjected to intense winter cold from radiation. Notwithstand-
ing this bevere trial, the cans of meat tested were in good con-
dition — strong proof of their original good quality.

It would if<^em advisable that caches of such kind should be
at least covered, so as to avoid both direct sun and intense
cold.

The whale-boat was carefully examined, and found to be
in serviceable condition, despite the long time it had been
cached.

Quite a number of pieces of drift-wood were found upon
the western shore of the island, among which were a worn but
still serviceable oar, and a charred piece of the ornamental work
of a ship. I am informed that the whaler Xanthus was burned
the previous year just north of Tasiusak. It is probable that
tliL. burnt wood was from the Xanthus, as it evidently had not
been exposed any very great length of time to the action of the
sea. The fragment was in any event of an old vessel, as it had
oi'iginally been painted red and yellow, and later a coat of
white had overlain it.

Tlie presence of this diift-wood is interesting, as showing
that a northwest current extends occasioiuilly this far to the
northward in I'affin Bay. Inglelield mentions iinding near
Cape Atholl a portion of a ship's deck, which was evidently
part of an American whaler which had been lost in Melville
Bay that year. He considered this as giving evidence of the
strong northerly current along that coast, especially as the frag-
ment had drifted so far in a few weeks despite the heavy
northerly gales.

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TIIUKK YEATwS OF AKCTIC SKUVICK.

lAug.,

Sir <Teorge N<aro8, in IST.'), exporieiiced a southerly current,
^vllich is doubtless the prevailing one.

AV'^e left the Vixry Islands at S i-.m., and five hours later
were abreast of llakluyt Island, which is particularly interesting,
as being the farthest land touched by AVilliam i'atfin in 1(U<>,
althoviiih he sailed some eight leagnes to the northward of this
point. IngloHeld was hardly fair to the old explorer when he
clainiad iSorthund)erland and the adjacent isles as newly discov-

" An Hand we called Hakluit's ilo."
[Uajlln's Fmllifnt land, July I, IGlfi.l

ered, for it is evident that I'aflin must have seen those islands
as well as IJakluyt, although the map of his remarkable discov-
ej'ies of 1G16 is lost to the world.

From Cape Chalon northward a close watcli was kept u])on
the main-land, in hopes some Etah natives might be seen and
connnunicated with by us.

The remarkable tabulated masses of land in the neighbor-
hood of Cape Alexander have been made familiar to the world
by the vivid descriptions of Kane and Hayes, with whose labors
they nnist ever be associated.

To the southward of that capo the great Mer de Glace is

1881.]

MELVILLE BAY TO FORT CONOEll.

nearly always in sight from the open sea, and, Leing a pretloni-
iiiating feature in the landscape, naturally conveys a scusc of
barrenness and desolation ; but to the noi-tliward the inland ice
has retreated far from the sea, leaving the land free from ice or
snow, and broken in at many points by fertile valleys, which
impress themselves more strongly npon one through their con-
trast with the shores just passed. ^

Along the coast only an occasional bit of ice-foot was seen,
and in the sea but a single berg and a few pieces of lloe-ice to
the southward of Littleton Island.

Pandora Harbor was passed at It) a.m., and at noon the
Proteus anchored between Cape Ohlsen and Littleton Island.

Lieutenant Kislingbury, with a party including the Eskimo,
was sent to Life-lioat Cove to examine the winter (quarters of
the crew of the Polaris, and open connnunication with the Etah
Eskimo, if any could bo found. They brought back the transit
instrument, which was found badly damaged about tifteen feet
from the cairn in which it had been originally deposited.
Polaris house had entirely disappeared, but its site was marked
by a cooking-stove, steam-gauge, and many different pieces of
metal, but no wood. A thermometer scale was found which
belonged to an instrument mamifactured by Tagliabue, scaled
from 120° down to minus 100°, and on which tlie name of Hall
had been scratched with some pointed instrument.

Lieutenant Lockwood improved our stay by landing a quan-
tity of coal on the extreme southwestern point of Littleton
Island, the only article of our supplies which could well be
spared.

"While these parties were thus engaged, I thoroughly exam-
ined the island for the purpose of finding the mail which had
been landed there in 1S76, for the Xares expedition, by Sir Allen
Young. Some fifty cairns, great and small, were found, nono

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THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[Aug.,

of which contained ii record save one, which informed us that
the whaler Erik, under Captain Walker, touched at the island
Juno 20, 187G. Six hours' fruitless search t)n foot had no rc-
sidts ; l)\it later, takiui^ a ])oat, I followed the coast with two
men, along the shore from fifty to two hundred yards from the
water's edge, so as to cover the entire ground, and eventually
succeedeil in discovering the mail at the extreme northern end
of the west coast, some thirty yards from the water's edge.
Four hoxes and three casks of mail matter were discovered,
marked by a very small cairn, which contained no record.

( )u tlie western coast of the island I also found a wet wad
of paper, which was carefully dried, and examined a few days
later. It seemed to show conclusively that the Xarcs cairn had
been opened, probably by the Eskimo, as the paper proved to
be part of the London Standard, dated May 17, 1875, in which
was contained intact an account of a lecture of Captain Xares
on the Arctic expedition, delivered at Winchester Guildhall
April 30, 187.5,

While at Littleton Island, walrus were found in considerable
numbers. The party which visited Life-IJoat Cove encountered
a herd near that point. Two of the animals, a fenude and her
calf, were fired at and woundeil. The calf saidc, and was possi-
bly killed. The female, after one plunge, came again to the sur-
face, and, infuriated by her wonnds, rapidly approached the boat,
evidently with hostile intentions. The Eskimo, who better than
the rest realized tlie danger, counselled a reti-eat, but two shots
at a few yards caused the walrus to dive again, and she appeared
no more. The boat landing coal had similar experiences, except
that the entire herd when fired on rapidly approached the boat
with threatening actions, but drew off when very near. Their
great strength, enormous size, and ferocious appearance are very
trying to inexperienced liunters, and these qualities, added to

1881.]

MELVILLE BAY TO FORT CONGKK.

foai'lossness and curiosity, m:iko it a dangerous animal to attack
in its own element.

The full-grown walrus is froin twelvo to fifteen feet in
length, has a small, short head, with strong bristles about the
size of largo darning-needles. The broad foro and hind paws
are about two feet long, and the tusks of adults generally about
a foot and a half, although they have been known to exceed
thirty inches, in length. The tusks of the female are much more
slender than those of the male. They are very gregarious, and
seem to find a certain pleasure in frequent bellowing, by ex-
pelling the air through their nostrils.

The northern poi-tion of Littleton Island appeared to be a
favorite resort of eider ducks. Hundreds were found nesting,
but from the lateness of the season the eggs were unfit for eat-
ing. Tho nests were beds of rich, soft down, which were but
partly concealed by adjacent rocks or vegetation. The female
birds left their nests with great reluctance, and only when
a]iproached within a few yards. Our larder was increased by
oidy eleven ducks, as no time was given to hunting.

Private Henry discoverc' at a low point on the south side
of Jittletun Island, opposite Cape Oldsen, the remains of an
Eskimo wonuui buried in an old Eskimo house. The house
was carefully examined by me, and evidently had been at some
time a permanent habitation. Not only the house itself, but
the external surroundings, and the rank and luxuriant vegetation
near, were quite conclusive on that point. From the location of
the body, it is possible that this was the last of a family. Ingle-
field states, that a winter hut at Eardin Bay was found blocked
up by a stone, which removed disclosed the dead body of a
man within, and he was advised that it was a frequent custom
to let the house form the tomb for the last of a family.

Au accident had occurred to the wheel just after passing

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TIIIJKK YKAi:s OK AlU'TIC SKUVICK.

I Alii,'-,

Capo Alexiiiuk'r, and tlio stop at LittletDii Islund was iinprovod
by piittiiijjj it ill order, wliicli delayed ua until nearly midniglit.

1 olionld have been glad to have visited I Ijiyes' old winter-
quarters in I'ort Foulko, a few miles south of liittleton Island,
in hopes of seeing Boine of liis old Etah friends, hut lack of
time forbade.

The view from Littleton Island to the northward some forty
miles showed the sea entirely free from ice. <\ware of the ex-
treme rapidity with whieli ice eonditions change in that sea, I

Port Foulke.

\]f'iiitcr-(jii(irtern iif Dr. Jlai/e-i, IsWJiil.l

decided not to touch at Cape Sabine to examine the sledging
depot at that point, but to shape a direct course for Cape
Hawks.

Cape Sabine was passed about 2 a.m., ajid shortly after
small amounts of floe-ice were seen, but not in sufficient ipian-
tities to form even an open pack. To the westward, in Bu-
chanan Strait, what appeared to be an ice-foot was seen, but
from later experiences I am satisfied that it was a series of low
floes, or more probably the unbroken ice of the previous winter.

At 4 A.M. a seemingly close pack was ceen to the eastward,

1881.]

^IKLVIIJ-K HAY TO FORT CONOEU.

l)iit liilfi- il tIovL'lui)tHl into fitroivm-ico of fiiuall exti'iit. I cMiiie
(111 (Iwlc at tliiit tiiiic, and IViuikI our position to \>c off Capo
( 'auipordown. Tlio scuiio tlion was ono ot' roniarkablc beauty,
uiKJ, I'atlicr than an Arc^tic nii;-lit, suonieil to recall a Ijracinj^ *Jc-
tober morning in New I-lngland. It was proliably aI)out the
turn of the tide, us the entire sea was as smooth as a mill-pond.
In oecasional places during the night, a bare iilin <>1" new ice
had I'orinetl which indicated the approacii of winter.

At 4.fjO A.Ai. wo were opposite the centre of Hacho Island,
and from its appearance to me at that time, from tlie bridge of
the Proteus, I could readily understand how Hayes mistook
the single island for two, A long, bro:i(l valley separated A'ic-
toria Head from Cape Albert, and its vanishing point was many
miles to the westward.

The vessel was stopped a few moments, in order to obtain
a jihotograph of Dache Island and the land to the westward.
The la'idsca[)e at that time was one of unusual interest. The
Bun appearetl especially brilliant, the sky was free from all
except a few delicate cirrus-clouds, and the air was in that state
of visibility which renders the outlines of distant t)l)jects par-
ticularly sharp and distinct. The entire coast of Ellesmere and
(irinnell Lands was not only visible through the air, but its
image was perfectly retle(;ted from the smooth sea. The view
of that shore was clear and distinct, from Cape Sabine north-
ward to Cape Napoleon. To the southeastward, near Van
Ilensselaer Harbor, made immortal by the heroism of Kane, the
highlands were plainly visible.

Although the e.xpedition, as a rule, was little given to senti-
ment or enthusiasm, yet the scene and its conditions caused
general excitement and the deepest feeling. But three vessels
had ever before attained so high a latitude in those waters, and
none with such ease ; and the ai>i)earance of these Arctic lands.

til

TIIKEE YEARS OF AUCTIC SERVICE.

[Aug.,

devoid, as a rule, of snow, and gloi-iiied by the rays of tlie au-
tinini sun, presented a prospect whicli Avas entirely different in
its details from anv we had ever anticipated. The stern "-ran-
deur and desolation which are marked characteristics of Arctic
landricapes were not wanting, but the poetical picturesqueness
and delicate beauty of the scene were its predominant features.

The absence of ice was particularly marked. The .north
end of I'aclie Island was i-eached at 5 a.m., and at that time but
few pieces of Hoe- or harbor-ice could be seen i.i Kane Sea, and
but two bergs wej'o sighted from Cape Sabine to Cape Hawks.

To the northward of 15ache Island, the ice of the ))revious
winter still remained solid and unbroken in I'rinccss Alario
Bay.

A photographic view of Cajie Hawks and the coast to the
northward was obtained at a point some eight miles distant
from that cape, which, Uiougli not valuable as a photograph,
was useful for topographical purposes.

Ca]ie Hawks was passed, and the Proteus stopped at 9 a.m.
opposite the rocky ledge in Dobbin Bay on which the English
depot of 1875 had been caclu;d.

AV^hile Sergeant Kice, the photographer, was diligently ply-
ing his ])rofession from a large floe of harbor-ice, I visited the
depot and carefully exammed its contents. At the time of our
visit the tide was low, and at the edge of the land we were
confronted by a j)erpendicular ice-wall of eight to ten feet in
height, which was scaled with some little ditHculty.

Seven casks of l)rcad, aggregating twenty-seven hundred
pounds ; two casks of stoarinc, of four hundred pounds ; one
barrel of pi-eserved potatoes, two hundi'cd and ten pounds ; two
kegs of pickles, and two partly tilled, kegs of rum, composed
tlie remains of the depot. These articles wei-e in good condi-
tion, except a poi'tion of the bread, which was mouldy, though

1881.]

MELVILLE BAY TO FORT CONGEU.

generally eatable. The casks had been deposited on a ledge of
uneven surface, and the melting snow in sunnner had gathered in
pools around, and later had frozen them from an eighth to one-
half deep in solid ice. The casks were all cut out of the ice
and placed in such location as would better protect them from
the moisture. A haU'-iilled keg of rum, the piccalilli, and sam-
ple cases of the preserved potatoes were taken with us, as well
as the jolly-boat, which was also cached there. Insufficient
means had not allowed the proper equipment of the expedition
with boats, or this would have remained midisturbctl at Cape
JIuwks.

The excellent workmanship and litness of this boat for
Arctic service was exemplilied by the fact that, despite its six
years' exposure to the dry Arctic atmosphei'c, il; was yet in such
condition that^, though leaking, it was seaworthy at once. It
was named the A^alorous, from the ship to which it formerly
belonged.

The cache at Cape Hawks, dejiosited by the English in
1875, was one of the two principal dei)ots established under the
advice and direction of a board of Arctic experts, who had
given the subject of exploration by the Smith Sound route
careful and considerate attention. The second depot consisted,
equally with that of Cape Hawks, of thirty-six hundred rations,
and was the one which had liccn visited by us August 1st, at
Southeast Cary Island. The very snuill cache established at
Payer Harbor, Cape Sabine, was for use, as Sir George Kares
said, of any possible sledge ])arty travelling in that direction.
Il contained only two hmulred and iifty sledging rations and a
small (juantity of dog-food.

It is now evident to the whole world that Cape Sabine is
the key of Smith Sound, but such fact was by no means clear
to the English Arctic board, while the problem was an unro-

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TIIIIKK YEAKS OF ARCTIC SKIJVICK.

[Aug.,

solved one. If the English expedition ol' isT.") had lost their
pjiips, the i'onr weeks' pn)visi(>ns ;it Cupe Hawks eonld never
liHve carried their crews to Southeast Gary Island, except under
favorable conditions, which larely occur in Ivanc Sea. This
statement, showini:; that the views of the highest and most com-
petent Arctic authorities were followed in our original i)lan, by

Washington Irving Island.
[ f V'/J'"'''"' ' '"/"' //<'"'< v. I

no means precludes the admissinn that Cape Sabine should
have been jirovi^jdiicd at that time.

Five walruses were seen at Cape Hawks, which, in Cdiniec-
tion with the observations (if ihe English on Ts'orman Enckyer
Island, indicate that these animals yeai'ly iVecpient that part of
Kane Sea.

The serial sea temperatures at Cape Hawks showed a fall in
the tempei'atuic of tlu> water since Cape Sabine had been

1881.

MELVILLK HAY TO FORT CONGER.

passed ; that of the surfiice buiiig '.]2.ir, and at thirty fathoms
30.7°.

The vegetation at Capo Hawks and on AV^asliington Irving
Lsland was scanty and stunted. Tliree varieties only ot: plants
were found on the main-land and eight on the island.

^\.s the Proteus passed Washington Irving Island, we picked
up our jihotographer, as well as Dr. Pavy and Jiiuutenant
Lockwood, who had been searching the cairn on the island.
The latter olRcer brought back Captain N ares' record of Au-
gust, 1875, and Septendjer, 187G, which gave a brief account
of his visit and action. Co]>ies of these papers were left, and
a new record added, which gave brielly our experiences to
date.

The harljor-ice of Dobbin I>av was solid and unbroken. Its
margin reached the north end of AVashington Irving Island, so
that we were obliged to pass to the southward on leaving Cape
Hawks.

At 3 I'.jr. Cape Fi-azer was reached, from which Washing-
ton Land of Kane was first sighted, the high land to the nortli-
ward of Cass I>ay t-howing up clearly. This point, Cape Fra-
zer, is a notable one in more than one respect. It was Hayes'
farthest ll'irty years ago, while serving as a surgeon with Kane,
and it is in the immediate neighborhood of this cape that the
Atlantic tide, surging northward through Davis Strait and
Smith Sound, meets its sister tide twelve hours older, which
lias ]iassed northward by the Spitzbergeu Sea, and rounding
Cape Washington has tK)W('(i southward through tlie I'olar
Ocean and liobesoii ('liaimel.

Ill the neighborhood of this point the first palffiocrystic floe-
bergs fell under our observation. Tt> the uninitiated, rough
and heavy field-ice, which has been increased in thickness by
underrunnlng or doubled up by pressure, nuiy be mistaken for

TIIREK YEARS OK ARCTIC SERVICE.

[Aug.,

palieocrystie, but the latter ice once seen the mistake never oc-
curs again. Its identity is unmistakable.

Four floe-bergs only were seen, two to the nortliward and
two to the southward of Frazer, and no paUuocrystic floe was
met until Capo I'aird was reached.

At 5 I'.M. Cape MeCliiitock was passed and the eightieth
parallel crossed. Scoresby Bay was not only full of harbor-ice,
evidently unbroken that year, but a delicate fringe of new ice
at It 'Marghi extended a mile or more into the sea.

Fog and drizzling rain set in shortly after, obliging ns to
run at half-speed. It was so dense on sighting Cape Collinson,
at 5.30, that I did not feel justified in attempting the examina-
tion of the small depot there cached, particularly as its exact
location was not known, and the search would have necessitated
securing the vessel in Hichardson Bay. At 10 p.m. the fog
was so dense that the ves.<el was kept merely under steerage-
way.

The fog lifted on the morning of the 4tli suiliciently to al-
low an hour's run, and Franklin Island was passed about noon.
We obtained a sounding of one hundred and thirty fathoms
with no bottom, at a poiiit some eight miles southwest of that
island. To the southeast, a close, hummocky pack was sighted,
which was of such linuted extent that from the " crow's-nest''
open water was visible on both sides.

At noon Kennedy Channel was entirely free from fog, and
both coasts showed up plainly, from Cape Constitution to Po-
laris Promontory to the east, and from Cape Lawrence to Cape
Defosse to the west.

I decided to establish a small depot in Carl Hitter Bay, and
while the Proteus remained in the extreme northeastern por-
tion, I went on shore with a party and cached two hundred
pounds of meat and about two lunulred and eighty pounds of

j, f

1881.]

MELVILLE BAY TO FOUT CONfJER.

73.

bread. The peiniuican and hard bread in water-tight casks,
were placed on a high bench on the north side of a creelc about
a half mile southwest of tlie capo near Mount Koss.

This creek was of moderate size, and drained a valley of con-
siderable extent, which extended to the northwestward. The
vegetation seemed more abundant than at Capo Hawks, aiul
eight varieties of flowers were gathered during our brief
stay.

Lieutenant Ivislingbury travelled up the valley a short dis-
tance, and traces of musk-cattle, hare, and fox were found.

A number of delicate star-fish and crustaceans were ob-
tained in a sounding of forty-two fathoms half a mile off the
shore.

The designation of the indentation at that point as a l)ay
would seem to be a courtesy on the part of our English cousins
toward Dr. Hayes, who located there an inlet some twenty -five
miles deep. The actual indentation is so slight, and the curve
so great, that it is a bight rather than a bay.

On our passage northward, Richardson and Hawlings Bays
were ?iot seen by us, but all indentations sighted were tilled with
unbrolcen harbor-ice. Carl Hitter Bay itself was free of such
ice, which must originally have formed so intimate a part of
the main pack that it must have moved out in the first break
up of the year.

From Littleton Lsland northward tlio number and variety of
birds rapidly decreased, and north of the eightieth parallel oidy
dovekies had been observed until we left Carl Hitter Hay, when
a Greenland falcon {Falco caudlcans) was seen.

At 8 i*.M. off Capo Lieber, a large mimber of heavy iloes
were met with, which pressed against the coast and obliged the
Proteus to make a considerable detour to the eastward. Li pass-
ing the ice near Capo Lieber, for the flrst time in our voyage.

'».;»

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THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[Aug,,

the " ci'ow's-iicst " was of practical boneiit to us. At 9 p.m. wo
entered the extreme stxitlieasteru part of Lady Franklin Day,
about two miles southeast of Cape IJaird.

On ncaring that cape we met a close, heavy paclc, and for
the first time in our remarkable voyage were stopped by ice.
We ran seven or eight miles to the eastward in hopes that a
lead to the northward might present itself. The result of our
observations showed a dense polar jiack of paheociystic Hoes,
cemented together by thinner ice, which extended in a semi-
circle from Cape l>aird to the Greenland coast above Cape
Tyson. These Hoes ranged from twenty-five to fifty feet in
thickness, and proved to be veritable islands of ice — tiie true
palivocrystic Hoes of \ares.

We returned to the neighborhood of Cape Baird, aiul tied
11]) to the pack to await future movements of the ice.

Oil August otb, with a small party, I visited and examined
carefully Capo Lieber, which was about four miles distant.
The precipitous cliffs rise some two thousand feet from the sea,
and it is possible to scale them only at one point, through a
rugged, rocky ravuie, which the summer stream in course uf
aires has worn through the disintegrated rock. The ascent was
made only with great difficulty. Lieutenant Lockwood and Dr.
I'avy climbed different peaks at the extreme summit, which was
entirely barren, save miniature glaciers in two places. No cairn
of any kind was in sight, though any present could not have
failed to meet the eye, nor were there any other traces of a pre-
vious visit. Two small cairns were erected by our party.

The Grinnell Land coast was visil)le many miles to the
northward, a rug<;ed, bold highland, although its mountain
masses presented to the eye very gently rounded contours, with
no distinctly rising peak in any direction.

Through the pack in ILiU Uasiii there were many lanes of

1881.]

MELVILLE 15AY TO FOUT CONOEIt.

75.

water visible, and the general movement of the detached pieces
showed a southward tendency.

That evening we were able to advance about a mile toward
Discovery Harbor, through a large number of floes breaking off
and drifting slowly southward.

During the day a number of schools of white whales {Beluga
catadon) were seen, there being as many as thirty at one time.
Mr. Korman, the mate of the Proteus, saw with them their
active enemy, a sword-fish [O/ra gladiator, Bonn).

On tlie 0th a munber of narwhals {3lotiodo)i moiioceros)
were seen, and another school of white whales. The two Es-
kimo pursued them in their kayaks, and Jens succeeded in strik-
ing a narwhal, but after an exciting struggle, during which he
came to the surface of the water twice, the animal managed to
break the line and carried away the harpoon with him.

The white whale is from twelve to eighteen feet in length,
and yields not far from a thousand pounds each of meat and
blubber. It is a very beautiful animal, with a smooth, un-
wrinkled hide, which is of waxy-white color in adults, but of a
light gi'ayish brown in the young. They are very active, swim
M'ith great rapidity, and usually travel in schools. In (irreenland
from five to six hundred are caught yearly, almost all by nets.
The skin, called 'Mnattak" by the Eskimo, is esteemed a great
dainty in ])anish Greenland when fresh, and that eaten by me
tasted like a superior kind of tripe. It is much valued as an
anti-scorbutic, and we obtained a considerable quantity oi it
dried, in which condition it resembles pieces of inferior glue.

The narwhal, or unicorn, is of a yellowish-white color, mot-
tled with dark grayish spots in the adult. In the young both
ground-color and spots are of consitlerably darker shade than in
the full grown. The strikingly characteristic feature in the
male is an abnornuxlly long tooth projecting from the left side

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i^ii

TIIUKK YEARS OF AUCTIC SEItVICK

[Aug.,

of tlio upjicr jaw, its fellow of the right side being alinost al-
ways undeveloped. In the females both teeth are immature, as
a rule. This tusk is sometimes developed to a length of ten
feet, and, as the body is not luuch longer, it gives the animal a
most striking appearance.

The tusk ])oints slightly downward, is nearly straight, is
spirally striated, tapers to a blunt point, and is of a yellowish-
white substance, denser and harder than ivory. The spirals

Narwhal Skull.
[Shiiirimj Ahiuirmat Ih'VdiiimuiU 11/ Toiith in I.cfl Shlt\ I'/iiuy Jair.]

terminate some si.x inches from the point, which is smooth and
white as if from cctnstant nso. The tusk varies in thickness
from two to three inches at the base, and from one-third to
one-half incli at the point. Its use is not definitely known, but
most probably it serves as a weapon, as but few are obtained in
jicrfect condition. The aninuds are quick swinnners, active,
gregarious, not easily alarmed, and are often found with tho
white whale, which they follow. The tusks and oil are valua-
ble, and the flesh palatable. They arc hunted by the Eskimo
fi'om the kayak only.

The sword-fish, or grampus, is a different species from tho

M ^1

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1881.]

MELVILLK HAY TO FORT CONOKIJ.

coinnioii Bword-fish of lower latitudes. It is a fierce, voracious
fish of the dolpliiu family, possessing great streugtii and activ-
ity, and ])ursue8 whales and seals with ruthless energy. 1 )r. Ksch-
richt is said to have taken thirteen porpoises and fourteen seals
I'loni iho stomach of one of these voracious animals, who was
choked swallowing yet another seal.

AVe saw many dovekies, and shot several during the day ;
they fre(pient the clili's of Ca])e Lieher, and evidently hreed
there.

An attempt was made in the evening to reach Cape I'aird
over the lloe, hut son»e changes in the ice appearing prohahie,
the party was recalled.

Sevei'al l.»rent geese, a hoatswain, and a snowy owl visited us
during the day.

On the 7th a northeasterly wind prevailed, which sent large
quantities of heavy ice down Kennedy Chaimel, and obliged
the Proteus to frequently change her location to avoid beset-
nient, and at 10 i'.m. we were tied up to a Hoe in Kennedy
Chamiel, live miles south of Cape Licber. Many of the iloes
which passed south were from one to iive miles long, and from
ten to iifty feet thick.

In order to he on the safe side, the cajitain nuide ai'i'ajige-
ments during the day for a possible nip, so that the propeller-
screw and rudder coidd be readily hoisted. We were then in a
largo, open-water space, ten miles long and from one to five
miles broad, with the main jxick to the northward and the
detached Hoes to the southwaid.

White whales were again seen, and a number of birds, includ-
ing the snow bunting, ringed plover, and Ivor}' gull.

During the Sth the pack from tlu; northward filled Hall Basin
completely, and Tvennedy Channel to the southward of Bessels
I'ay, while the detached jiack to the southward appeared to be

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TIIUKIO YKAKS OK AKCTIC SKI'.V ICK.

fAub'.,

caught botwoeii Hans Island and the noith cajio ol' Carl Uitter
liny, Iti ciisi) of a licavv northerly gale, it' the main pack had
broken, tho only availahlo hlu'ltcr would have; heen at Hans
Island, which jutssihly could have heen ])assc(l to the eastwaid.
The narwhals i^till remained with us, and several were seen dur-
ing till! day, and a iiuMd)er of seals, one of which was sliot.

On the Uth the ice opened considerably, but snowy weather
])revented movement in any (lire<'tioii. A sijuare-tlipper seal
{Phoca bit rOa ta) Wiia killed; ii falcon, tern, and glaucous gull
were seen.

Wo were surprised to see on the Inth a harp seal ( l*Jiinu
Grocnlandica), winch, as well as dovekics and a nnnd)ei' of gnlls,
visited the vessel. Snow still continued, which obscured the
land for the greater pan of the day, and with continued in-
action was very trying to our spirits.

It was true that the situation remained unchanged, and no
ground was lost to tlie southward, but our position was by no
means encouraging. Since the ■1th of the month we had lost
over forty miles of latitude, and instead of being iMght miles
from our destination were nearer iifty. U was, therefore, with a
peculiar feeling of gratification that we saw the wind, shortly after
noon, back from the north to the favorable southwest cpiarter.

On the morning of the 11th the sky showed signs of clearing,
and at 7 a.m., under the inlluence of a southwesterly gale, the
fog lifted to the northward. Very little ice was then in sight,
and what there was crowded well to the eastern coast. AVe
were then off Hans Island, from which we started northward
at full speed, and on roimding Cape Lieber were delighted to
see Lady I'^raidclin Bay equally clear of ice.

The southwest wind continucil strong, and at 3 p.m., while we
were crossing Archer liord, attained an hourly velocity of thirty-
six miles.

Bft; :

1881.

MKLVII.LE 1?AV TO FOUT rONOKI!.

7!)

Oil rc'iu'hiiig tlic nitraiicc (if Discoveiy Harbor,;! narrow
cliaimt'l free from ice was found, Kopai-atiny tin; main ire of
Archer iiord from a conwideralile pack wiiicli was visiMe in
Watcr-(\)urBO Uay. Discovery Harbor was in llie same condi-
tion as tlie hays to the soutliward — covered w ith heavy liarhor-
ice of tlic prcvions ycai-'s formal ion.

Eskimo Boys Fishing.

The Proteus steamed slowly into the curved water-space to
the northward of Dutch Island, the powerful engines stopped,
an ice-anchor was tlirown on the luirbor-tloe, and our voyage to
Lady Fraidvlin Jlay was prosperously ended.

npr

I ! vi

.joiR*V«-.-

--T^mf.

Trie Pfotous in Uiicovury Harbor,

ClIAPTEli VII.

THE ItKTUllN OF THE PU0TEIT3.

A S the Proteus iieavcd the entrance of tlie liarbor, a black
"^^ speck apjiearecl liij^h up on the steep sides of Cairn Hill,
which was soou «letcriMine(l to be a nuisk-ox. The moment tho
vessel touched fast-ice iive or six oaiijer sportsmen started in
pursuit of him. Somewhat to the chagrin of the huntsTueu
of the expedition, he fell a prize to the boatswain, who beiiii^
in better condition to climb the steep cliffs, ilrst succeeded in
getting within gun-shot. At the first ball the bull appeared to
start toward the hunter, but a second shot caused him to stag-

THE KETURX OF THE TROTEUS.

gor and fall for somo two linmlrecl feet down the fttcep cliffs,
on the edge of wlilch ho was grazing.

Wliilo the nnisk-ox was being sccnred, T went direct to Dis-
c'ovory winter-cjuarters, where tlio post-otlU'o cairn of Captain
Stephenson was visited. Two copper cases were ol)tained,
lahi'Iled " iieeords and (ieneral Tiifonnation," the hitter of
wliich, by coincidence, was dated Angnst 11, 1870, jnst live years
previous to a day.

A Hicks glacial thermometer, set five feet in tlie ground,
recorded a t(!mperature of ^0 '. As the unfrozen ground attains
its maximum temperature not far from that time of the year,
this temperature seems rcasonal)ly the maxinnnn of the earth
at that depth. Later observations and experiences show that
the earth thaws oidy to a dejith of twenty-two to twenty-four
inches, remaining eternally frozen below that point.

About twenty-iive barrels of spoiled pork and beef, left by
Captain iStcphenson in 1ST(5, were standing near, and numerous
empty cans and other debris, such as nsually mark old encamp-
ments were strewn around.

A lai'ge tlock of eider-ducks hivd settled in an open pool near
by, and to the uorthwaril some three-cpiarters of a mile ten musk-
oxen were (piietly grazing. The atljacent brook-slo])es and
margins were clothed with vegetation, composed of thick beds
of Dri/as^ or clusters of Sa.vifm</(i, varied with sedges, grasses,
or the familiar buttercup. 1 1 igher up, on glacier-drift of clayey
nature, countless Arctic poppies of luxuriant growth dotted
with fair yellow the landscape. Surely this presence of bird ajid
flower and beast were kindly greetings on Nature's part to our
new home.

But in Arctic life one grows practical, and, in defanlt of gun
for duck and ritle for musk-oxen, I started to tell the huntsmen
to pursue them, but while I was on the way they were discovered

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TIIUKK YEAUS OF AUCTIC SKltVITK.

[Aug.,

by Licnteiuiiit Lockwood, wlio with Mr. Clay and Trivate Ilyan,
followed thoiu up, and killed all on the :outh side of Mount
Cartmel.

Sergeant lirainard and a party were at onec sent out to dis-
embowel and skin the aninuds, as the musky ilavor, which some-
times marks the otherwise excellent meat, is generally attributed
to the animals remaiiung undressed for some time after their
slaughter. The indefatigable photographer. Sergeant Kice, ac-
companied them, and at midnight made a photograph of the
aninuvls.

The Captain c)(' tiie Proteus was desirous of landing the party
in Discovery Harbor, but i was unwilling to aliandon the con-
templated location at Water-course l>ay, owing fo its proximity
to a seam of excellent coal. Lieutenant Lockwood was in con-
sequence sent to examine the existing conditions in AVater-
course I'ay and to report thereon. He returned at a.m. of
the I'Jtli, having killed during his absence three more nnisk-
cattle. lie reported the coal seam as of ex "'lent <pialitv and
ea.-ilv accessible, and that the shores of the bav were well
adapted for a station. The northern half of the bay was then
tilled with ]iressed-up tloes fi-o;ii the iidluence of the south-
west uale, which yet continued. lie thought it douhtful if a
vessel could ajiproach nearer tlie land than one-eighth of a
mile, and further reported that no sheltered anchorage was
])ossible.

Li view of these coTiditions I decided to land at the I^iscovery
winter-<piarters, where it also .seemed that the observations,
strictly comparable with those of the English expedition, would
better sub.scrve our scientific ol)jects.

The Captain commenced at once breaking up the harbor-ice.
a work which lasted for seven hours continuously imtil we
anchored opposite the post-oilice cairn, and within a hundred

1881.]

Till'; UF/nux OK thk puotkus.

vanKs of it. It was very troublesome to force a passage, as
there was no ])lace for the broken Hoes to be driven to. The
ice averaged sixteen inches in thicknes.s, l)ut in many phices it
was eight or ten IVet. The latter was in moderately rotten co)i-
dition, or the vessel conld never have made its way through
it. It was surprising that she did her work so well.

Proteus First Stopped by Ico.

The Proteus would back stivei'al hundred yards from the edge
of the ice, and fliiMi going ahead at full speed woidd strike
the heavy tloes s([uarely with her iron prow. ller impact was
such that, surging and rising, she would plunge into the solid ice
IVom hair to her whole length. As she moved ahead the entire
crew rolled the vessel, so as to give a motion sideways, wliich

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fW^R

TIIIIEE YEARS OF AllCTIC SERVICE.

[Aug.,

tended to further break up the Hoes and prevent the ship from
being caught and wedged.

Great skill is needed for the proper handling of a ship under
such conditions, for she must be stopped and backed before she
has entirely lost headway, in order to avoid wedging. Despite
Captain Pike's great experience, the ship was several times
caught, thus entailing loss of time and exjienditure of fuel.

A site was immediately chosen for the house, which was ar-
ranged to stand north and south. The men were divided into
two parties for unloading the vessel. All were engaged in this
task except the necessary scientific observers, carpenters, and
one or two who were detailed to secure the nuisk-meat cached
near by.

The station was named Conger, after Senator Conger, who
had interested himself specially in behalf of the expedition.

Mr. Clay informed me on the l(3th of his desire to return to the
United States, saying that he thought such a course calculated
to promote the harmony and interests of tlie expedition.
Though regretting to lose his society I could not but concur in his
opinion, as the surgeon of the expedition had shown at marked
dis])osition to extreme measures if Mr. Clay renuiiued. Our
surgeon was indispensable, and all honorable concessions to re-
tain him should be made. Corporal Starr and Private Uyau
having developed physical ailments, which unfitted them for
prolonged Arctic service, wei'e also ordered to return by the
Proteus, much to their regret.

On the lath the boatswain killed another musk-ox, wliich
•went to the crew of the Proteus, but later the Captain forbade
any of his crew from hunting more, on my representation that
the necessities of our situation, separated as we were from the
rest of the world, demandetl the conservation of these animals
for our future use.

l" \i

1881.

THE RETURN OF THE PROTEUS.

At 6 P.M. of the ISth I finally discharged tlie Proteus.

At that time, in addition to all onr general supplies, one hun-
dred and thirty tons of coal had been landed.

On the Sath Lieutenant Kislingbury ej)ent the day on the
Proteus and the next day, dissatisfied with the expeditionary
regulations, requested that he be relieved from duty with the
expedition. lie was relieved and ordered to report to the
Chief Signal Officer. Unfortunately the Proteus got under
way just as Lieutenant Kislingbury was leaving the station, and
he was obliged to i-eturn to Conger. lie remained consecpiently
at Conger, doing no duty, and with no further re(piirement than
that he should conform to the police regulations of tlie station.
lie at no time requested to return to duty as an officer of the
ex]»edition. An excellent shot and an assiduous hunter, ho
contributed by his skill at various times to our stock of game
and thus to our he'dth and comfort, lie accompanied several
short sledge parties, as will be noted hereafter.

These unfortunate episodes emphasize the necessity of select-
ing for Arctic service only men and ofiicers of thorough military
(|ualities, among which subordination is by no means of second-
ary importance. If in all military commands that element
is of great importance, it is of predominating weight in Arc-
tic work, where isolation and self-dependence impose peculiar
and rigid conditions. If subseipiently the discipline and subor-
dination of the party insured extraordinary success in field-
work and in retreat, it was despite the unfortunate commence-
ment.

The Proteus made an attempt to leave the harbor on the
morning of the IDth, but was only able to reach Dutch
Island, where the heavy crowded ice in Lady Franklin Pay,
driven in by the easterly storm of the ISth, prevented her de-
parture. She returned to the point adjacent, which was named

i .

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86 TIIUKE YEAKS OF AllCTIC SEUVICE. (Aug , 1881. J

I'rotons Point, where the rest of her stay was occnpied in tak-
ing on ballast.

Lieutenant Lockwood, with the launch, attempted to follow
the Proteus as she left her anchorage on the morning of the
10th, but owing to the extremely heavy ice found it impossible
to do so. This was a matter of much regret to us, as, if the
launch could have been got into open water near Dutch Island,
she would have been of great service during that autunm.

Ilourlv metcoroloirical observations had been re<r>ilarly made
from August Sth on board ship, and on the morning of the 19th
were regularly coTunienced on shore. Two days later a tide-
gauge was up, and tiilal observations regularly conunenced.

Prom the iSrh the men and ollicers were quartered camp-
fashion in tents, but from fourteen to sixteen hours' work daily
did wonders on our house, and on the 21st the cook's range
was set up. The very low temperature nuide us feel the im-
portance of quarters, especially for such articles as would be
j'.iuch damaged by frost. Already from August 18th freezing
temperatures occurred daily, and at 3 r.M. of the 29th the
temperature fell below the freezing point, there to remain for
a i)eriod of nine months.

In the meantime the ice remained piled up at the eastern
entrance to the harbor, and the Proteus, despite almost daily
attempts to leave, was ice-bound in sight. Daily a note was
.sent to hui-, that the latest tidings might reach our homes.
Finally, on August 2Gth, she made a desperate attempt, and
bi'oke through the dense, narrow strip of ])acked floes which
had cut her off from open water. Archer Fiord was packed
with ice, and she was compelled to run northeastward. iVU
followed her movements with lively interest, and about 7 i'.m.,
some miles east of Distant Cape, she passed from our sight, as
it proved, forever.

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CHAPTER VIII.

FOltT CONGEU.

TT was but natural that many a longing glance should be sent
after the departing ship, but, on the whole, I doubt not
there was a certain sense of relief that the ship had actually
gone, and that our work had fairly commenced. While the
ship remaiued in the harbor it caused a feeling of restlessness
and uneasiness, whicli (piite disappeared as soon as she de-
parted.

The work on the house was pushed with the utmost rapidity,
and by August 25th some of the party moved in ; there being a
roof to cover their heads, although the tioor and windows were
not yet completed. A portion of the party remained a short
time longer in the tents which formed our original <|uarters,
some preferring to wait until everything was in order, and their
places finally allotted to them ; and others because they realized
that the (piarters in the house would soon become monotonous,
and that it was best to defer their occupation unti] the last
possible moment.

The lirst Sunday on which I felt justified in resting was
August 2Sth, on which day all unnecessary work was discon-
tinued. At ten o'clock the entire party were assembled, ^nd
the programme for future Sundays outlined.

In dealing with the religious affairs of a party of that kind,
which included in it members of many varying sects, I felt that

ill

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TITIIEE YKAIl.S OF AUCTIO 8EUVICK.

[Any

any regulations which might be fonnulated should rest on the
broadest and most liberal basis. I said to them that, although
separated from all the rest of the world, it was most proper and
right that the Sabbath should be observed. In consequence, 1
announced that games of all kinds should be abstained from on
that day. On each Sunday morning there would bo read by nio
a selection from the Psalms, and it was expected that every
member of the expedition should be present, mdoss he had
conscientious scruples against listening to the reading o£ the
l»ible. After services on each Sun<lay, any parties desiring to
hunt or leave the station should have free and full permission,
and such exercise was deemed by mo es])ecially suited to our sur-
roundings, as serving to break in on the monotony of our life,
and thus be conducive both to mental and physical health. Tlio
selection of Psalms for the 28th day of the month was then
read. Although, as a rule, during our stay at Conger, I re-
frained from any comments on what was thus read, I felt obliged
that morning to especially invite the attention of the party to
that verse which recites how delightful a thing it is for brethren
to dwell together in miity. A few words were added upon the
depressing effect which an isolated and monotonous life pro-
duced u])on men experiencing the trials and hardships of a long
Arctic winter. I further exj)ressed the hope, that every one
would endeavor to conciliate and reconcile those who drifted
into any unpleasant controversy instead of exciting them to
further feeling.

That the conditions under which we lived and by which we
were surrounded may be kjiown, a brief description of our
house and the adjacent country is given as follows:

The house was G(» by 17 feet in the clear. Its walls were
double, the two coverings of half-inch boards being separated
by an air-space of about a foot. Great reliance was placed on the

1881.]

FOUT OONOKU.

iion-c'oiuluctivity to heat of tliose air-Hpaccs to contribute to o\ir
waniitli. Tlie inside lining consisted of well-fitted boards, which
M'ere tongued and grooved by our own carpenters, but to insure
freedom from drauglits a covering of thin tar-paper was nailed
upon tlu! rafters before the covering of boards was fastened. A
covering of much heavier tar-paper was placed on the outside
uf the external boards. The external wood was fastened verti-
cally instead of horizontally, and though there was but a single
covering, yet wo managed by strong battening to securely fasten
the tar-paper and prevent serious draughts. The roof was but
the thickness of a single board, and, like the sides, was covered
by tar-paper secured by battening. The paper used foi- outside
covering was of the heaviest character, and, being black, absorbed
during the early spring and sunnuer, when external heat was
most desired, the rays of the sun to such an extent as to
materially contribute to the warmth of the interior. During
the winter the external wall and covering of ice and snow pre-
vented any extreme cold from radiation. The house was ceiled
with tongued-and-grooved boards, which not only contributed to
t)ur warmth, but added also to our room, by affording above an
excellent storage-jjlace for various kinds of articles which would
have been materially injured by exposure to the weather.

The interior of the house was divided into three rooms, one
17 by 15 feet for the officers, which w'as separated fi'om the
large room of the men by an intermediate space of S by 17
feet, of which by S feet served as an entry, and a small space
of 11 by 8 feet was allowed the cook as his special domain.
At the north and south ends lean-tos of canvas and tar-paper
were constructed, which served useful purposes as store-houses,
and also afForded intermediate stopping-places between the
warm quarters and the wintry air. A similar addition was
made in the second year to the west side of the house.

>i*l

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TTTIIEK YKAUS <»F AUCTIC! SKUVICK.

fo n. Two-tiert>tl hniikH.
, ItloilorbU'k, Ciiiiiii'll,

Henry, Wlilslor.
. i:iiMon,HcliiiL'iaor,

Cross, r<yini.
. S.iliir, I,(iii>f,

Ilonder, Ellis,
. Ilniiimi'd, FrciliTlck,

Ifiilstdii, lliinliiifr.
. Jewell, loroel,

Uico.
. ('InistliinfM'ii,

.Irlls.

. Dr. I'livy.

. lit. Klsliii^.'-liwrj .

. I,t. I,<)i Uwoii'l.

. I.t. Grccly.

. I'cinhilum Tiers.

Jtiilli Till).

( liiiiiiii'ys— ilinililo.
, ])csk.

[AuR.,

, Liuldri' to (iiirrct.

, ('hldllOKTUI)!! mill AlKMUOIUPtlT

]!(ristor.
. ('Iiri)iiimi('t(>rs.
, Canvas iuMit ions.
. Coal ]'('ii.
. Cooking'' Kaiifrc
Ilcatinj,' Stove.
.Tables.
•.AVaterTaiik.
rice 'Wall in 'Winter.

Plan of House at Fort Conger.
.V ((/(-, \ii/eclliil/ie iiif/i.

i. >

1
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1H81.] 1"(»IIT CONMUOU. Itl

Tho iiccompiU'viiig plan h1i()\v.s the gcuionil arniiigciuciit of llii;
liouso aiul tlio location of tho partv. Jt will bu ohscrvcil that
the Imth-room abutted against tho chininovf*, bo that this iiidis-
j)ensable adjunct of an Arctic Iiouse Mas always comfortable i'or
persons \ising it. An tixcollent bath-tub was made, which was
ill freijut'iit n>e ; the onlcr I'etpiiiiiig complete ablutions weekly
beiiiij; nccessarv only as a nuitter of form.

The only comparatively level pai't of tin! country was that in
the iuMuediate lu'ighborhood of the house. The Ituilding was
conveniently and pleasantly sitiuiteil witiiin thirty yards of the
water's edge on a snudl tableland between two brooks, whicii for
a I'ew mouths in the year ran into the sea.

To the southward, along the steep shore to Dutch Island,
which was about two miles distant, and at the very entrance of
the liarbor, rose up abruptly a higii bill, whose elevation was
over lifteen hundred feet. It was called Cairn Hill from the
cairn established by the English.

To the eastward a (•om[)aratively low valley stretched, separat-
ing Caii'u Hill from Mount Cartmel, which, some two tliousand
feet high, was to the northwe.stward of the station. The valley
separating ^[uunt (artmel and Cairn Hill led np to a gentle
divide, through which AVater-course Creek and tht; coal nniu',
.Mjuie four nules distant, were reached, over a country which,
though alfording tlu^ best travel of the neighborhood, Mas an
exceedingly rough one.

Directly to the northward was a sharp break in the high
cliffs, mIucIi was known as tlii! north valley. Through that
opening rose to view, some live juili's distant from the sea,
an elevation of nearly three thousand feet, the Hogback. It
received its luime from the gently curving outlines of its sum-
nut, the connnon form of most hill-to])s in Grinnell Land; many
of which will be mentioned lati'r under that iieneric name.

TWT

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TIIIIKK YKAKS OV AUCTIO .SKUVK'K

[Auf.

To tlio nortliwx'st, iihimt ji iiiilo iliwUmt, tMiii>tii'<l into tlic hi';i u
crct'k from Cascailu Jiiiviiu'. This las iiiK was so iianicd Iroiii
its scrit's oC hi'aiitirul cascados, wlicro the Bumincr turruiits

]>lu!i<:o(l (lowmvanl in tho distaiico of a mile over fourteen
liinidred feet tln-ough a bare cleft in the solid roek. This
creek drained tlin upper plateau around the Sugar Loaf, a
pointed elevation of eighteen hundred feet.

18H1.J

VOU'V CONdKll.

From ("iiscadi! Kiivino westward ti) Freiicli Capo, f(tr a dis-
taiico of ttMi miles, clifTs from fourteen liuiidied to twt) tlioiisaiid
foot rose so nearly iicrpendicular fnmi tlie harbor that they
M'erc inatrossiblc, except possibly at one or two places. About
live miles west of the station these clilTs turn sharply to the
northward, makiiiL; a larj^o indentation, which is known as
]^Iusk-ox i'ay, into which drained, throunh a break in the clilTs,
a scries of fresh-water lakes, the largest of which was named
by the l']n<:;lish expcMlition Alexandi'a, after the Princess of
Wales. On the western entrance of Musk-ox Hay ^Fouiit
Ovibus raises its snow-capped head over two thousand feet.
To the northward of l-'rench Cape a narrow ravin*' breaks into
the high clilTs, which there are neaily two thou i.id feet in
height. I'eyond that cape a bay three miles long . ^y a mile
wide, which was temporarily called I'asil Xorris I brought
one at its western shore to the only extensive lowland in that
vicinity. A gentle slope to the south carries you over a bench
of low elevation to Sun I'ay. To the northward a bntad valley
about two miles wide, known as the ]')ellows, gradually narrow-
ing, extends some twenty miles into the interior. Nearly
parallel to the Uellows, with a slightly more westerly cour.se,
Dlack Rock vale similarly extends some twenty miles to the
westward, nntil it reaches a narrow " divi<le," by which it is
separated from Lake Ilazen.

To the southwest of the st;.ion IJellot Island, about three
miles long by two wide, separates Discovery Harbor from
Archer Fiord, leaving to the westward ii broad chainiel between
itself and Sun I'eninsnla. The island is a beautiful one, rugged
and high, with its summit (]\Ionnt Campbell) of about twenty-
one hundred feet attractively marked with eternal drifts of snow.

It is thus seen that our immediate surronndings were on
nature's grandest scale. So perfect was the harmony, and .><o

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TIIKEE YEAllS OF AliCTlC SKUVICE.

proportionate the p rts, that the grandeur at tirst, as of Niagara,
Mas hardly appreciated.

Tlie groat harhor, wUh its twenty S(piare miles of immense
iee-lioes, lienimed in at every point by jirecipitons walls, which
ranged from lunulreds to thousands of feet in heigl i, seemed at
laiuling but a small bay surrounded l)y moderate lulls.

Uut at times our thoughts and eyes tui'iied homeward, and
from the station far to the southward the bold capes of Morton
and Tyson stood forth on clear days, grim sentinels that over-
look the eternal ice-stream which pushes downward from the
interior of Greenland into l*etermann Fiord.

CIlAi'TEU IX.

ill 1.1

AUTITJVIN SLEDGING.

rilllK house was scarcely coinpleted before field-work com-
-*- nicuccil. The difficulties aud dang-ers of such work in
autumn are obvious, tuul have been dwelt on to a marked extent
by nu)st iVrctic writers. The snow gone from the ground ren-
ders laud travel bv slediios impossible, while along the edge of
the sea the ice-foot is similarly impracticable. The sea itself,
especially in very I'igh latitudes, is always more or less full of
ice, which if not dangerous soon becomes so through being
cemented together by young ice, an obstacle the most dithcult
of all lor a boat to pass through.

Tlie sun sbiiu's but little and feebly ; the nights — the bug-
bear of all ^Vrctir travel!''rs who htive endured them — lennthen
M'ith fearful rapidity; the moist, penetrating air readily chills
and stupefies, while the cold steadily increases with the growing
autunm. The vouu"- ice, formed rapii"

a thick, Icatherv sid)stanc(\ the surface of which is covered
an inch or more with a moi>t, saline etllorescence. l^'autiful to
the eye, but which binds and impedes the passage of a sledge
nmch the sanu; as wet sand checks the movement of an eiitrine

on the rail

lis substance coiiiicalini;- onlv at verv low ti'in-

pcratnrcs, melts and

alur

ates the foot-iicar of the traveller!

In addition, a light coating of snow frequentlv conceals thin,
young ice wlum the serious danger of its breaking umler the
sledge, aud the conse<]uent imniersion of the whole party is

. 3

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TIIREK YEA15.S OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[Aug.,

encountered. In autuinn tcuipeniturcs the travelling-gear ol" a
man once wet, the chances of dangerous frost-bites and disaster
lai'gely increase. It is sound doctrine that autunui sledging
should be carefully planned, attempted with great caution, and
never pushed to great distances.

On August 21)th Lieutenant Lockwood was sent, with two men
on foot and with packs, to ascoi'tain the practicability of inland
travel to and around St. Patrick I'av. He was ijone but two
days, during which time he was fortunate enough to kill a nuisk-
ox, and unfortunate enough to freeze one of his feet. The
temperature at that time was about 25° (-3.0° C), but travelling
through occasional pools dampened his foot-gear and frosted his
iviot without his knowledge. St. Patrick Bay was found to be
fringed with precipitins cliffs of nearly a thousand feet .n ele-
vation, Avhich were broken only by a nai'row valley at the very
head of the bay itself. Occasionally a narrow ravine woi'n by
the summer streams was found, up or down whicli an unencum-
bered traveller could pass with great ditficulty.

This result "vvas somewhat of a disappointment to me, as I
had at that time a small depot of provisions on a wheeled con-
veyance, which were to be cached for travelling parties at the
most practicable crossing. These articles were left at the head of
the bay, and later in the month were removed to Cape Murchi-
son.

In the early days of October Lieutenant l>ockwo(i(l made a
second journey in the same direction, and spent a few days in
exploring the valley which extends northward from the head of
8t. Patrick Pay. A mile and a half wide at its entrance, it
reached some six miles to the noi-thwest, where the lower level
<:^ the valley terminated, but a narro'v ravine enclosing a river-
bed still continued several miles farther toward the north. The
valle\' through its whole extent was hennned in by precipitous

1881.]

AUTUMN SLEDGING.

bluffs of groat elevation, rarely brolcen by steep, narrow ravines
on either side. To the left a narrow gorge broke into the val-
ley, which subsequent explorations two years later showed con-
clusively to be the main valley, through which drains the greater
part of the Avater which flows into St. Patrick Bay.

Of the valley proper Lieutenant Lockwood says : " It has two
levels, that of the stream, and a second of level mesa-lands from
fifty to a hundred feet above the general level. These mesa-
levels seem to be washings from the lofty sides of the valley,
and project first on one side and then on the other, like the mud
flats of a river. A narrow gorge, the river-bed, illustrates
glacial action at some past period, the rocky sides being deeply
worn and grooved."

In connection with subsequent similar discoveries, I entertain
no doubt that within a i-easonably remote period this valley was
below the level of the sea, and the glacial ice-cap now with-
drawn far from the sea discharged by an offshoot into St.
Patrick Pay, and during the gradual retreat of the ice alternate
beaches naturally formed from deposits of the muddy stream,
as in many other rivers.

Ou August 30th I sent the surgeon. Dr. Octave Pavy, and
Sergeant llice, the photugra})her of theexpedititm, on an over-
land trip northward. Their instructions recpiired them to proceed
as fur as practicable toward Cape Joseph Henry, searching care-
fully on the way for traces of the missing steamer .Teamiette. In
addition, they were to examine the condition of the English depot
at Lincoln Bay, and I'eport on the practicability of autumn and
spring travelling by sledge along the Grinnell Land coast to the
northward. They travelled with packs, carrying a dog-tent,
blankets, and sufficient provisions to last them as far as the
English dejiot, where their sujiplies could be renewed. They
struck across the country from Conger nearly in a straight lino

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TIIHEE YKARS OF AKCTIC SEUVIOE.

[Aug.,

to the head cf St. Patrick Bay, and thence by a direct course
to Mount Beaufort, near Cape Eeechy, where they saw numerous
traces of niusk-cattle and foxes.

Their route from Shift-rudder Bay to Wrangel Bay was
through inland valleys, which were separated at their head by a
narrow water-shed of some fifteen hundred feet in elevation. In
these valleys were found a number of snuxll lakes, in one of
which Sergeant Rice saw a small fish some six or eight inches
long. The depot at Lincoln Bay was missed in going north-
ward.

On September 3d Cape Union was reached, where, at an
elevation of one thousand feet, I3r. Pavy found "an horizon as
clear as can be possible to find." In Itobeson Chamiel the ice
was packed closely to the Greenland coast, while to the north
the sea was covered with level ice, broken in occasional places
by water-spaces. On the Grinuell Land side a broad channel
of open water, two miles wide at Cape Union, stretched as far
northward as eye could reach.

Ileturning southward, Lincoln Bay was reached, and the depot
discovered in generally bad order. The packages were strewn
around in disorder, and apparently several which could not be
found had been blown over the high cliffs by a violent wind.
Nearly a thousand rations of Australian beef, cui-ry paste,
onion powder, and matches were in perfect condition, as also
six Inmdred rations of stearine. A defective bung had caused
the loss of all but a few gallons of the rum. A small (piaiitity
of tobacco, chocolate, and sugar were good, the rest having be-
come mouldy ; the tea, sugar, and salt had suffered from damp-
ness, while the potatoes and bread were spoiled by mould.

Water-tight cases of very light tin should be used in protect-
ing stores thus cached. I'articular attention should be given to
the tightness of bungs, and to securing casks containing liquids

t' : pi

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1881.]

AUTUMN SLEDOINO.

SO that none can bo lost. Of five tlepota examined by my ex-
])edition, there was no case where there was not a poition, and
generally a very large portion, of the nun and alcohol lost by
lack of proper attention in this respect.

Snch of the small stores as were serviceable were repacked in
one cask, and all of these supplies were of great benefit the suc-
ceeding spring, when a party was sent northward over the
Polar Sea. At Lincoln Bay a hare was killed by Sergeant Ilice,
and Dr. Pavy found at the head of the bay coal similar to that
of the mine in AVater-course llavine.

Sergeant llice, who had broken through the young ice and
saturated his foot-gear on his way north, was disabled while at
Lincoln Pay by an attack of acute rheumatism. His sufferings
were intense, and every step caused agonizing pain in his feet,
but his indomitable pluck and gr(,>at enduring powers enabled
him, with the judicious aid of Dr. I'avy, to proceed slowly
homeward. Arriving at the valley near the head of St. Patrick
Pay, he was unable to go farther. Light snow had fallen
diu'ing the march, and the temperature had fallen to 17° (-8.3'
C). The doctor then erected the tent, and, making him as
comfortable as possible, returned to the station for assistance,
reaching Conger at 4 a.m. of September 9th.

I inunediately sent Sergeant Prainard, with hot coffee and
food, a bottle of Sauterne wine, and the needful medicines, to
make him comfortable })endiug relief ; three hours later a
])arty of four followed, with sled and an improvised stretcher.
The sled could be taken only as far as the top of the precipitous
clifi's overlooking St. Patrick Pay, and it was necessary to trans-
port him several miles to reach that point. Later six additional
men were sent, as the original party were iniable to bring him
up the steep cliffs, and with tliem a buft'alo-robe to make a
warm and more comfortable stretcher.

1lf1

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100

TIIUEE YKARS OF AIICTIC SEUVICK.

[Sept.,

AVhilc awaiting additional assistance, tho first party carefully
examined the cliffs for several miles for some ravine of gen-
tle slope, but none could bo seen. In the search, however,
Privates Connell and Frederik found a large coniferous tree on
the beach just above extreme high water-mark. It was about
thirty inches in circumference, some thirty feet long, and had
apparently been carried to that jjoint by a current within a
cou]ile of years. A portion of it n-as cut up for firewood, and for
the first time in that valley a bright, cheery camp-fire gave com-
fort to man. Eventually the party reached C'onger shortly after
midniglit ; none too soon, as the temperature had fallen to S'^
(-13.3° C), and a northerly storm followed a few hours later.

Sergeant Ilice recovered rapidly, and ten days later was in tho
field. "While suffering from this attack he had travelled fifty-
five hours in tliree days, and when relieved could scarcely move
a limb ; his suffering was so great during' this trip that he lost
twenty-four pounds in weight.

It is unnecessary to say that no traces of the Jeannctte were
fomid, as that mifortunate ship had suidc three months before.
On the very day of Dr. I'avy's return, the gallant I)e Long was
camped on the opjiosite side of the Arctic Circle on one of tho
new Siberian Islands, with only a week's provisions, but cour-
ageously hoping, " witli God's aid, to reach the settlements on
the Lena Iliver."

During Dr. Pavy's absence the fortunate opening of the
straits had enabled me to establish a large supply-dei)ot near
Cape r>eechy. On August oOth Ilobeson Channel had cleared
wonderfully of ice, and I decided immediately on sending a
boat-party northward. Unfortunately our steam-launch was cut
off by heavy ice from the open water, and the use of the whale-
boat was necessary.

Sergeant IJrainard, my orderly and commissary-sergeant, was

'•1

1881.]

AUTUMN SLEDOINO.

101

selected for this important work, in consequence of Lieutenant
Lockwood's temporary diriubility from a superficial frost-bite.

Kearly two thousand ])ounds of jirovisions, fuel, bedding, and
other necessary field-supplies were transported to the whale-
boat over the harbor-floe, not without difficulty and danger,
owing to the rotten condition of the 3'oung ice.

Jewell, Cross, Salor, and Connell were detailed as the crew.
They left on tlie morning of the 31st, and moved northward
under great difficulty, consequent on the violent currents in the
vicinity of Distant Cape, which frequently threatened to injure
the boat through the small floes, and later drove them for a short
time to the shore at Capo Murchison for safety. The falling
temperature caused new ice to form rajiidly in ISt. Patrick Bay,
and it was crossed only with gi-eat difficulty.

They succeeded in reaching Cape Beechy on September 1st,
but grounded floebergs, with the great height and crowded con-
dition of the ice-foot, rendered a landing at the cape impossible;
and, owing to the threatening appearance of the pack. Sergeant
Ihainard gave way a short distance to the southward. They
landed the stores and haided up the boat through a break in
the ice-foot about two miles from the cape, near the base of
!Mount Beaufort.

A northwest gale setting in filled liobeson Channel with
heavy ice from the I'olar Ocean, and precluded any innnediate
chance of returning by boat. In consecpience they securely
cached the boat, jntched the tent, in which the provisions were
stored, and i-eturned t)verland to l''ort Conger, which was reached
on the 3d. During their absence the new ice in St. Patrick
Bay had increased with such rapidity that it was sufficiently
strong to admit of their crossing it. I'rivate Connell killed a
fiord-seal at Cape ^lurchison, which was secured and cached
muler the boat. Although the temj)eraturc only fell to 10.5^

I ,

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102

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[Sept.,

(-7° C), yet the strong wiiuls with moist air caused the party to
suffer much more from cold than they did the following spring
when exposed to temperatures in dry calm air much below
zero (-18° C). Sergeant Jirainurd developed in this trip the
(jualities of prudence, energy, and sound judgment which ever
characterized his service with the expedition.

Sei'geant Gardiner and Corporal Salor, a few days later, ex-
amined the foot-hills of St. Patrick J 'ay, to see how far west-
ward from Cape Murchison they would he practicable for
loaded sledges. In connection with Sergeant Gardiner's report,
which showed the impracticability of loaded sledges following
the coast for more than a mile beyond Capo Mni'chison, 1 de-
cided to establish a depot at the point where a party travelling
northward would leave the coast, and so removed, through
Sergeant Lymi and party, a small depot previously located at
the head of the bay. The depot thus established near Cape
Murchison was known as Depot " A.''

During these trijis Sergeant Gardiner found on the shore of
Sr. Patrick JJay an eight-man sledge, pickaxe, cooking-lami), and
u twelve-foot cedar boat with paddles. These articles needed
only slight repairs to make them immediately and thoroughly
eerviceable. They had evidently been abandoned by sledging
parties from II. M. S. Discovery in ISTO.

Sergeant Lynn found on the shore of AV^ater-course 'lay a
cart, evidently abandoned by the same expedition. Later, these
articles, except the boat which was used elsewhere, were all
brought to the station, and proved of service to us. The cart,
however, was of too lieavy a pattern to bo of much practical
benefit.

This cart, or a part of it, was used by Lieutenant Lewis A.
IJeaumont, li.X., in his attempt to reach Ilobeson Chan-
nel from Discovery winter-quarters (site of Fort Conger), in

!. i

1881.

AUTUMN SLEDGING.

103

October, 1875. The experiences of that great Arctic traveller,
Sir Edward Parry, were sufficiently fortunate to justify the
opinion that for overland travel a sledge may well be replaced
by a cart. Lieutenant IJeauniont in attempting to carry out his
opinion, sustained by so sound an authority, was unfortunate in
having so heavy a vehicle. I thoroughly concur with hini in the
opinion that overlaTid travelling, in CJrinnell Land at least, can
bo better done by cart than sledge, and that I so held in 1881
contributetl in a marked degree to my successful journey into
the interior of that country in the sununer of 1882.

On Se])tembcr 7th, the harbor-floe l)cing fit for sledge travel,
I decided to visit the entrance to the JjcHows, a valley which
was situated some fit'teen miles southwest of the station at the
extreme point of Di.scovory Harbor, which I temporarily named
r)asil Xorriri IJay. The Dellows Valley received its name from
the otlicers of the English expedition of 1875, on account of the
iiigh and constant winds which were always experienced in it.
It is separated from I>lack Uock Vale to the westward by a high,
peculiarly shaped bluff called Bifurcation Cape. I was accom-
panied by Lieutenant Kislingbury, and Sergeants IJrainard and
lialston, with Eskimo .Fens as a dog-driver.

Excellent ice for the sledge was fallen in with, and the trip was
made in about three hours, notwithstanding some delay in the
centre of Basil Xorris Bay, on our discovery of ten eider-ducks
in a water-space sui'roundiiig a pala'ociTstic floe. They were
evidently two females, with their full-grown broods, which,
incautiously delaying their migration to the southward, the
sudden advent of winter had caught and detained. The young
ones were killed with pikestaft", but the older ones flew away
some distance after being driven from the water, and were
killed by Lieutenant Kislingbmy with his rifle.

On nearing the shore Sergeant lialston discovered a herd of

f" If 1

I i

104

TlIItKK YEAKS OF AUC'TIC SKRVICK.

[Sept.,

I |.

fourteen nmsk-cattle, which were quiotly <jra/.ing on a low
]ihitoiui near the* entranco to JJhvck Kuck \'alley, sonic three
miles distant. The party were armed only with one rillo and
revolver, so Lieutenant Kislinghury and the sergeants were
gent to surround the nord, of which I ordered that eight oidy
should bo slaughtered. It seemed then to me, as now, that
unless there was innuediate necessity for the meat, this in-
teresting species should not be extermiiuited by indiscriminate
slaughter.

The nnisk-cattle thus killed, with those already obtained in
the vicinity of Conger, afforded us a liberal and satisfying diet
of fresh meat until the ensuing sunmier. While the hunters
were securing the game, 1 sent .lens with the sledge to the
place selected for the tempoi'ary camp, and proceeded myself
to Sun I'ay, in order to lind anil examine the depot cached near
Stony Cape by Lieutenant Conybeare in 1S7G.

On my way across the low divide which separated the two
bays, I was fortunate enough to lind two nuisk-oxeii, and by
taking advantage of the ground succeeded in approaching with-
in forty yards of them without attracting their attention. For
a quarter of an hour I was able to examine these rare and
peculiar animals, who did not notice my ])rcsence for a con-
6ideral)le time, and when they did so weie not alarmed, as I re-
mained perfectly (piiet.

The circumstances were such as afforded me an excellent op-
portunity of observing the manner in which these animals
obtain their food in winter, as they were feeding while the
ground was covered with snow sutKciently deep to conceal the
scanty vegetation of the valley. ]\[oving from one patch of
Df'l/as or Sascifraya to another, the animal with its hoof scraped
away carefully the snow from the plants, and later supple-
mented this action by the farther use of horns or proboscis as

lii^i^^::}^te-;^K;

I ^ \

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11^

fmvn

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1881.1

AUTUMN SLKDdlNU.

lOfi

circuiiistanccs rccjuircd or convenience (lictateil. In no case did
cither niiiiuul fail tu iir^t reniuvu the bulk uf the biiow with itti
liuof.

Their food at that tinu* was ahiiost entirely Dri/an odnp<t(il(i
and SiUfifraya ojqxmtifolia ', the grasses and licliens were al-
most entirely lacking, and in no case did 1 ever note the nnisk-ox
feeding on the hitter vegcitation, although in many places near
Conger the ground was covere<l with scanty, miiuite lichens for
acres in extent. The animals, although active, agile diinhcrs,
displayed on this and other occasions, when feeding, an awk-
wardness of gait and movement which was ])arti(;ularly striking.

A long and tedious search for the depfit had hut scanty results.
In a thorough search over acres of ])ointed I'ocks overlain hy a
thin covering of snow, I found nothing hut two six-quart cans full
of rum and alcohol. I was iiually forced to the conclusion that
tlie provisions must have been cached in bags, and eaten by wild
animals, as the remains of bags were found near the alcohol
cans, and the lair (jf a wolf was situated ncai- by.

AV'hile hunting for the depot I unfortunately fell in a mass of
loose, pointed rocks, and seriously injured my I'ight knee. Dur-
ing the search I went along the new ice which had formed in
Sun l)ay to within one hundred and iifty yards of Stony Cape.
The ice thence southwai'<l of Archer Fiord was entirely new.
and in perfect coiulitioii for travelling.

On returning to the jiarty I learned that nine musk-oxen had
been killed, ('amp was moved to the foot of the steej) cliffs
where the cattle hail been killed, in order that the process of
skinning and dressing might be the easier accomplished. Karly
the following morning lieutenant Kislingbury killed another
musk-ox, which had been wounded the night before.

The morning proved snowy and stormy, with low temperature,
15° F. or -d.^ C!. T decided in consequence to return to the

' •(

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u^mm

•7"! 17

106

TIIUEK YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE

[Sept.,

station with as iimch of the meat as coald bo sledded to tlio
liarbor-icc over the partially snow-covered gi'ouiul. We were
three lionrs in reachini;- the ice, althongh the distance was only
tw ■ miles and our 1 .1 hut six hundred pounds. Tly that time
we were exhausted by <->ur labors, and the steel runners were
worn throu";li by rochs nrotrndin*; from the snow.

At tho water's edi:e a lariTo n.miber of pieces of drift-wood
wore found near or slightly above the high-water mark. Some
of the pieces were six or seven feet long, and from four to
eight inches in diameter. Nearly all were coniferous woods.

We cached a portion of ^>\\v provisions for the nse of future
parties, and struck out across the barbor-tloe, which we were
able to reach over the ice-foot oidy with ditRculty, owing to tho
high stage of the tide and consc([uent pools of water ah>ng the
tidal crack.

On September Uth. Lieutenant Lockwood's frosted footbeinj;
well, acconi])anied by Christiansen ami Sergeant (iardiner, he
was sent with dog-sledge to explore the IJellows, and was to
bring back as much of the nmsk-meat as could be hauled to the
water's edge, lie returneil on tlu; l.'lth, liaviug gone about
twelve miles beyoml the point reached by Lieuti'Mant Archer,
R.X., an<l, like that olHcei-, he saw in advance a narrow ravine,
which was then thought to be a termination of the valley, but
a yi'ar latiT it was found to extend somewhat farther.

I'l'om lUeak ( "a])e, he says, the I>ellows appears to be "• .V
broad valley, probably two or three miles wide and ([uite level,
walled in by high and steep (fliffsand mountains. Its ((j>pareiit
ternun: tion i.-. proI)ably seventeen miles distant, and hears \.
34:'' AV." From the apparent end the valley was followed some
six miles, turning first iiorth and then about northwest, and
ra{)idly narrowing from a mile to w i'ew hundred yai'ds in
width. '' Through the gap at the end of the valley," says Lieu-

1881.] AUTTMX SLKOCilNO. 107

tenant Loclcwood, " I conld sec one high peak covered with

snow,

lie liiid t'.ic r.n,nie difficult experience witli the sledge, while
travelling up the valley, as liad been encountered by our Eng-
lish predecessors. The level gi'ound was but scantily covered with
snow, and the sharp, flinty stones and I'.ard substances which
formed the bed of the v.dley rendered travelling exceedingly

Entrance to Bellows Valley, October, 1881.
[Xdrllii'dsh'fr. Siilc, ihiii' IHeak Vai>e.\

difficult, and (piite wore out the steel shoes of the ruiniers. The
last portion of his outward trip was necessarily made on foot.
lie found between 15Iack Cape and Devil's Ilick a considerable
(piantity of lignite coal in small pieces, but was unable to dis-
cover the seam from which it came. It is evident that this
coal was JiUcwise seen by Lieutenant Aivher, U.X., who ''found
the valley to consist of . . , shingle, . , . mixetl with

$' i

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108

TIIKEE YEAKS OF AIICTIO SEUVICE.

[Sept.,

sonic substanco very luucli like charcoal.'" Tiie coal in every
way resembled that which came from the ravine near Water-
course Day.

One of the interesting results of this trij) was the discovery of
a large piece of knotty pine, three feet long and eight inches in
diameter, frozen in tlic eai'tli in the bed of the valley, two
miles or more from lUack Cape, at an elevation above the sea
of nearly one hundred and fifty feet. Two musk-cattle were
seen by Lieutenant Lockwood near the head of the valley, but,
in accordance with his orders, they were not killed. A'egeta-
tion, though scanty in niaiiy places, was yet sufficient in the
whole valley for large hci'ds of musk-oxen.

The highest point of the valley-bed above the sea was about
six hundred feet. The temperature was low during the whole
trip, sinking to 1° (-17.2'' C.) on September l-'Uli, and, with the
constant wind, which gave the Bellows its name, made the trip
a trying one.

On September lath 1 concluded that the new ice in Archer
Fiord must be sufficiently strong for travelling, and with its ex-
cellent condition as seen by me a few days before I hoped that
a party could reach Beatrix I'ay in a couple of days' travel, and
thus make an attempt to cross the (irrinncll Land coast to the
westward, or at any rate establish, for the use of a future party,
a cache at the farthest i)oint reached. ])r. Tavy being very
desirous of making the trip, he was sent with Private Whisler,
Eskimo Jens, and two sledges. He returned the following day,
with the information that the late storm had broken up the new
ice in Archer Fiord, and that it had been impossible for him to
pass around llocky Cape. J le cached his provisions on the shore
of Sun Bay, and, visiting the slaughtered musk-cattle, brought
to the station about five hmidred pounds of meat.

Septendjer lUth, with Seigeant Brainard and Private Bend-

1881.]

AUTUMN SLEDGING.

109

cr, I starterl on a three days' inland journey toward the north-
west, in the hope of learning sometliing of tlie physical condi-
tions of the interior of Grinnell J.and. My knee, injured the
week before, was not suthcieiitly I'ocovered to enable nio to
make the journey, and I was obliged to send in my place Pri-
vate Council who had accumpanied us a few miles. The party
succeeded in penetrating some twenty-tive miles to the north-
west, whero they reached a high '' divide," from which they
had reason to believe water drained to the westward. A heavy
snow-storm springing up prevented uiy views to the westward,
and obliged them to return to the station. This journey was
made on foot, the sleeping-bag, food, and cooking apparatus be-
ing carried in packs.

Although the ice of Discovery Harbor, composed of old floes
cemented by young ice, was |)racticablo for sleilging early in
September, it was not until the end o£ the month that the sea
around J )istant Cape was sufficiently frozen to be passable for
sledges. The heavy tides and strong currents which 'prevailed
off that point caused ice to foi-m late in the autumn, and to break
up at an equally early date in tlie spring. This proved unfortu-
nate for us, as I had hoped to obtain for use at the station an ad-
ditional supply of coal from the mine in ^Vater-course llavine,
which, difficult of access overland, could bo reached by sledges
over an easy route around Dutch Island and Distant Ca])o. On
Se))tendjer 20th I examined the ice aroinid that cape, and found
that by crossing the extreme point ovt'rlaiid, and liy using the
axe freely, a sledge could be got by the open water at the point
of the Cai>e. The following day I sent Dr. Paw and Jens with
sledge and seven hundred jiounds of provisions to be taken to
Cape Murchison. lie returneil, unable to pass Distant Cape,
but later in the day, with Sergeants Drainard and Rice, I got
the sled around the Cape ; a nnnier breaking in Watercourse

i.i

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110

THREE YEARS OF AlICTIC SEUVICE.

[Sept.,

15ay, tlio supplies were not moved to the north side of St.
I'litiick Jjiiy until the next day, by Sergeant Hrainard.

Lieutenant Lockwood, with five men, started, September 24th,
to add stores to De])ot " B '' (Cape ]>eeehy). The eight-man
sledge was used, and the l)arty, hauling about one hundred and
fifty pounds to the num, made the outward journey, some twenty-
eight miles, in two days. Sergeant Rice followed them with a
dog-sledge with additional sup])lies. Lieutenant Loekwood's
trip resulted most satisfactorily, in adding important supplies
to Depot " 13," aud in giving him valuul)le experience in sledg-
ing work. During the absence of the party the average tem-
perature was -2'^ (-19° C), and one observation was as low as
-lO.ir" (-23.S° C). Despite the severe spell of autumn cold,
the work was done without disaster or material suffering.

Lieutenant Lockwood, in returning from De])ot "E," brought
from near the head of St. Patrick IJay a section of a lai'ge conif-
erous tree, ])robably ])ine. This section, from the centre, was
nine and one-half inches iii diameter. The tree as found was a
fiuooth, perfect bole, unworked and but little worn bv tidal
action. It was in the same j)osition, just above tide-water, as
when first seen by Connell and Christiansen, September J)th.

Dr. f*avy believing sledgo travelling practicable along the
Grinnell I.,and coast, and expressing his confidence of reaching
the vicinity of Cape Joseph llemy, I determined to send him
again northward. On this occasit)n he was to be accompanied
by Private "Whisler, and use the two dog-teams of the expedi-
tion, driving one him.self, while the other was to be under the
skilful jiianagement of Eskimo Jens.

His orders required them t.o leave September 30th, but, much
to Dr. Pavy's disappointment, I postponed his departure, not
deeming it prudc.t to send a party into the field in the face of
a driving snow-scorm at a temperature of zero, Fahrenheit.

1881.]

AUTUMN SLEDGING.

Ill

lie left Octoboi 2d, with instructions to proceed to Cape
Joseph lleniy, searcliing en route lor drift-wood or othor traces
of the Jeannette. In atldition to this work, he svas also directed
to lay out along the Grinnell Land coast such depots of jirovi-
sions as would facilitate spring travel in that dii-ection. lie
took certain supplies from the home station, and was authorized
to add the balance from L)epot " I>."

To the northward of Cape Eeechy the party found a narrow,
broken ice-foot, which was covered i'.i many places by floebergs
and heavy pack-ice forced up by the violence of late storms.
Farther north the ice-foot was found to have been broken
up by the sea in some jilaces, and, becoming worse and worse,
finallv failed alto<>;ether, as it had not vet formed for the winter.
It was conse(piently necessary to turn back at the southern ter-
mination of the Black (Miffs, to the south of AVrangel Bay.
The ice to the eastward, in Robeson Channel, was reported by
Dr. Pavy to consist of quantities of rubble cemented by new ice,
and occasioiuilly broken in by small lanes of water, the presence
of which rendered a passage around Black Cliff's over the soa-
ice utterly impossible. Dr. Pavy then returned to De])ot "B,"'
and attempted an inland passage to the westward of ]\[ount
Beaufort. He eventually foimd connecting valleys, which en-
abled him with difficulty, owing to the scanty amount of snow
on the ground, to reach AVrangel Bay, by passing over the low
" divide " which so[)arated the valleys at an altitude of about
seventeen hundred feet above the sea.

"While crossing the " divide " into the bay, two ptarmigan
were seen, one of which Eskimo Jens killed with his revolvei'.
Although these birds are without doubt permanent habitants ut"
Grinnell Land, and traces were seen later in the season, yet
but one other covey of them was seen until spring. The
natural coloring, which has been vouchsafed in such a remark-

': I

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I li

)

112

TIIUEK YKAllS OF AUCTIC SKUVICE.

[Oct.,

able degree to the rock-ptarmigan, renders it nearly impossible
to see them, except by acute observation iind in very close
proximity.

Dr. Pavy pushed northward <^hrough Wrangel ]>ay, linding
the narrow ice-foot of the same bn^l^en and difficult character
as that below, lie eventually reached with bis man a point
near Mount Parry, where lie cached a hundred and fifty pounds
of pemmican and fifty pounds of bread. Lack of ice-foot fai'ther
and the open condition of the floe-ice in llobeson Channel pre-
vented advance beyond tl at place. They were obliged to spend
one night on an insecure ice-foot but a few yards in width, in
ct)nstant danger on one side by falling stones from the high,
jirecipitous clift's, and on the other from the effect of the lieavy
gale, which, forcing huge paheocrystic fioebergs against the un-
sheltered ice-foot, M'as liable at any moment to topple large over-
hanging ice-blocks upon the camping party.

Some alarm, which turned into amuseTuent, arose from "Whis-
ler being attacked by " nightmare," which caused him to be-
lieve that the ice-foot, with tent, was being carried into the
straits, and to rush with fright from his slee})ing-bag and the
tent, awaken intr and alarminij; his comrades.

Dr. Pavy reached C\)nger October "Jth, convinced, from his
experiences, that travelling northward along the ({rinnell Land
coast was rarely ])racticable in autumn.

Having made autumn trips and explorations in all other
quarters, our attention wastiu'ned toward Capo Lieber, with the
intention later of exploring the interior of Judge Daly Penin-
sula. Kear the end of September Sergeants Brainard and
Jewell made an attempt to reach Cape Baird, which proved un-
successful, owing to the unsafe condition of the ice in Lady
Franklin Bay. The character of the ice in that direction was
exceedingly rough. It was evident that the old floe had not

I''
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1881.]

AUTUMN SLEDOING.

113

been firmly united l)y young ice, but was yet liable to separate
(luring heavy titles or strong winds.

Lieutenant Lockwood tried the ice again unsuccessfully
October Tth, but, fuiding conditions more favorable on October
10th, established a small dci)ot near Oape Baird for hunting or
exploring parties. Sergeants l^raiiiard and Tlice were at the
same time engaged in obtaining ])hotographs of the country ad-
joining the J'ellows, and in bringing in the musk-cattle killed
and cached near the entrance to that valley. In both these
trips the Hudson iJay sledge, constnicted by our carpenters,
Elison and Cross, did excellent service. Jjieutenant l^ockwood
reported the sledge as satisfactory, and Sergeant Rice said that
the work devolving on his i>arty could have been done by no
other sledge.

These trips closed what I have considered as autumn sledg-
ing, and others later are ti-cated as winter work.

Autumn went and winter canie with the departure, for four
and a half months, of the sun. The beginning of the long
Arctic night found the party in excellent health and spirits, and
with firm faith and conlidence in their ability to meet the hard-
ships of the next season, and to improve in the coming spring
on the (pjantity and quality of their sledging work.

Our autumn labors, as regarded the Grinnell Land coast, had
been successful beyond my anticipations. Four depots had been
established to the northward, the condition of the stores at
Lincoln Bay ascertained, points previor.sly unknown reached
toward the interior, over three tons of fresh meat obtained by
the hunt, and much valuable and practical information gained
as to the physical character of the country, and as to other con-
ditions bearing on field-work in that region.

Li ac(piiring a practical knowledge of sledging in such high
latitudes, and under trying conditions common to all autumn

■|

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114

TIIRKE YEMIS OF AUCTIO SEllVICE.

work, it was gr.itifyiiiij; that no accidout or disaster liad oc-
curred. >;ot the least bonelit resulting from tliis experience was
tlie development of minor, but none the less important, defects
in our sledging-gear and the manner in wliicli the wm-k Avas
conducted. Kowliere more than in Arctic sledging do widely
varying and quickly changing conditions demand greater sliilts
and expedients to insure moderate or complete success.

' . -

CllArTEll X.

STTNLKiUT TO DAUKNIOSS.

/^ril life at tlio station durinii; tlii.s time was by im moans
devoid vii iiiteiTst. Tho coinplotiou of tlio lioiise, tlie
placing of our sciciitilic instruments, tlie coiistrnctioii of meteor-
ological, astronomical, and magnetic observatories bad ke])t our
carpenter force bns\' for many weeks, and until tbe middle id"
September no one bad scarce a breatbing spell.

Tbe birds bad generally disai)]ieareil before tbe rroteus de-
parted, and such game as Avas in our innnediate neigbboibodd
bad ])een Becure(l. Twenty-six musk-oxen, ten ducks, a bare,
two seal, and a })tarmigan rewarded our bunter's efforts during
September and October, wbicb afforded about .'-ix tbousaiid
pounds of fresh meat for tbe ]iarty, and nearly an eipial amount
of offal for our dogs.

I-ieutenant Kislinn'bui-v bunted assiduously in tbe innnediate

TIIltKE YEAUS OK AUCTir aKRVK'K.

[Sept.,

noigliborliooil from the oiul of Aui^ust, but no game was to bo
found. The only visiblo lift) notcil by him at that time wero
spiders, mosijuitoes, ilies, caterpillars, motlis, and " daddy long-
legs" on the hills, and a few chubs and minnow in Lake xVlex-
andra. The mos(juitocs, numorous and troublesome at the
Clrcenland ports, wore fortuiuitely few.

The severe temperatures in August (as low as ir).0° or -d.V C
was noted) covered the sea with ice, dried up our running
brooks, drove southward the migratory birds, and played sad
havoc with the vegetation. The gay, yellow poppies were cut
down, but other hardy flowers, purple and snowy saxifrages ami
the white daisy, flourished during the early days of September.
The summer birds had gone the middle of August — an unusu-
ally early date, as Lieuteiumt Aldrich on September 10, 1875,
saw a tlock of turnstone on this coast nearly seventy miles to
the northward. The fabled instinct of the feathery tribe to
foretell a sevei'c season was not needed to explain their depart-
ure, which resulteil from the frost cutting off their suj)ply of
food.

I was somewhat surprised to learn, on September .'id, that the
shallow ponds, to which the dried-up creeks drove us for water,
were full of animalcuhe of considerable size. The water was
strained for a few days, but as otherwise inexi)licablo lieadaches
and nausea occurred among some of the men, I had recourse
for cooking- and drinking-water to ice obtained from the palieo-
crystic floes in the harbor.

The first signs of the ccjming polar night were noted on the
evening of September !»th, when a grateful change to the eyes
came, with a bright moon and the sight of a star of the first
magnitude. While the mental irritation and depression conse-
quent on the Arctic night ai'e not experienced during the polar
day, yet the latter has disadvantages. In some a marked ten-

(

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1881.]

RUNLIOIIT TO DARKNESS.

117

(leiicy to sleeplessness developed, and even the most nietliodieal
fell into irregular hours and habits, unless routine was imposed
on them.

•September Cth was marked by Jens killing a fiord seal {Phova
hisj)lihi), and l)y Lieutenant Lockwood making a trip over the
liarbor-lloe to JJellot Island, the ice being strong and firm the
whole distance.

Although wc had passed far beyond the confines oi' civiliza-
tion, yet the sameotticial routine was necessary in many respects
as in lower latitudes. On the lOth of the month IVivate Julius
l"'rederick was formally discharged from service for expiration
of term of enlistment and as forirudly re-enlisted on the follow-
ing day. Sergeant Brainard's discharge and re-enlistment fol-
lowed in a like manner a few days later.

On September 10th a heavy northerly gale occurred, which,
in conjunction with the position of the moon, caused an un-
usually high tide. Advantage was taken of these circumstances
to cut the launch Lady (Jreoly out of the ice, and haul her np
inside of the ice-foot. With the whole force we finally suc-
ceeded in getting her to a point where, at the extreme h-igh
tide, there was less than a foot of water under her keel. She
remained in that condition, undisturbed by the winter gales
or the moving ice-foot, until launched again the ensuing sum-
mer.

Our nsual psalms on the 11th were supplemented by prayer
for those who travel, a practice regularly followed whenever
sleilge parties were in the field.

Much surprise and excitement was caused, September 13th,
by the appearance of a large band of wolves upon the harbor-
floe near the house. Their gaunt, slight forms showed np
in a remarkable nuinner as the light fog, which at that time
covered the country to the westward, magnified greatly their

■ !■

118

TIIKKE YKAIJS OF AUCrrK.' HKUVKnO.

lOot.,

1 ,! ; - ,

^iwi^:

,(|f 1?'

kIzo, and fioiiiu of tliciii appeaixul to bo ha lar^o as vnarliiig

Tliii'tecii to ciglitucn were counted in tho pack. While they
showed no signs of timidity, yet they were very careful to keep
a proper and discreet distance, and none of our hiniters were
ible to get within gun-shot. This caution, while in keeping
witli tlio general habits of tho Arctic wolf, which has been
rarely killed by hunters, seems surprising, when we retlect that
these aninuils could never have been hunted, and doubtless had
never seen anything but a bear wliich could injure them.

Tho tenacity >vlth which Arctic animals hold to life was fre-
({uently instanced in our experiences, and it occurred to me
whether it did not arise from the survival of the strongest
and hardiest in a clime wliere natin-e ever seems at strife with
nature's life. A few days later Lieutenant Kislingbury and
Private Henry while hunting ran across a small pack of wolves,
(if which they shot two, but Iwth escaped. The ball from
Henry's riHc went completely through tho body of one of tho
animals, which bled profusely. The wolf was closely ft)llowed
l>y its bloody trail for several hours, but could not be caught.

September 2()th a wolf came within a hundred yards of the
house, and in the early twilight was for a time mistaken for ono
of the dogs, lie was eventually pursued by Lieutenant Kisling-
l)ury and several men, and was shot through tho body by that
officer. The wolf, knocked down by the ball, lost at least a cup-
ful of blood, and afterward continued to lose it steadily, lie

* Thisexag'gor.^Moii » rt vv»'U Ulustratod V)y an incident in Frank-

lin's iiucon itu, 1 it patience and caution, had succeeded

in stealing ouu' i nd v > ingratulating themselves on their good

fortune in gi ni,' withi' ,unshot, when to tlieir auiaz^nient and annoyance,
the animals took to wi , auil by cackle and scream left no further doubt as to
llieir identity as geese.

1S81.J

SUXLiailT TO DAIJKNESS.

Ill)

was chiiHcd for soiiio time witliout any one getting again within
gun-Hhot. He wuH let alone for a time in the hope that ho
would (lie, 1111(1 pursued by the hunters later, travelled oji, leav-
ing drops of blood on the snow, until he fell down dead, with
his body suihstantially bloodless.

Disturbed by the j)ro.\innty of such a pack, and fearing for
tho safety of our dogs, which showed terror and dismay at the
approach of tho wolves, I decided to destroy them by j)oison.
They showed, with the foxes, much craft and caution in ap-
proaching tho poisoned meat, aiul would touch none, though
several poisons were tried, until good was mixed with the poi-
sonous meat. Even then they avoided it at times. Lieutenant
Ivislingbury reported that on one occasion the meat was visited
by foxes, who ate all the good meat and left untouched that
which containud poison. Eventually four wolves and a fox
were p(jisoned, and the rest disappeared for that season at
least.

Lamps wore first lighted for general use on September ICth,
and the next day our bath-room, a warm, well-arranged place,
was completed.

The iirst birthday at Conger occurred on September ITth,
that of Private AVhisler, who completed his twenty-fourth year,
Tho occasion was taken to inaugurate a practice, which was in-
variably follow(3d during our service at Conger, of exempting
the man from duty and of allowing him to select the dinner
from our entire list of dainties and provisions. In addition, a
(piart of rum was given him for such disposition as he thought
lit to nuike of it. The e(iuital)le disposition of it by AV^hisler
among the party established a precedent which was regularly
followed.

The temperature fell below zero on the 20th, reaching —0.9°
(—21.0° C.) during the day. This was probably the earliest

1 1

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"^sam

niBap

^PMIVi

,'ij

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iflli

120

TIIUEE YEAKS OF AIM'TIC SERVICE.

[Oct.,

autninn date on which zero, Fahrenheit (-17.8'' C), had
been recorded, the earliest approximate date being that of
Parry at Melville Island, ISIO, -1.1^ (-18.3° C), .September
2(;th.

Occasional solar haloes were seen during the month, some of
which were of very great beauty. That on th(^ lil^t was a
brilliant display, which lasted for five hours. Those were parts
of two concentric rings, distant 23° and 40° respectively from
the dnn, which were marked by five mock suns, where the rain-
bow tints were most clearly displayed. This was followed the
same evening by our first auroral display — delicate, convoluted
ribbons of colorless light of varying intensity, which glowed
and burned a short hour south of the zenith till the gathering
clouds obscured it.*

The halo of the 24th was one of the most beautiful I have
ever seen. It was a double halo, there being two perfect con-
centric half-circles, distant 23° and 4(i° from the sun, each
half-circle having a contact arch of marked clearness. Six
meek suns, two on cither hand and two above the real sun, ap-
peared during a part of the day, the prismatic colors in each
case being as vivid and clear as in any rainbow. For the greater
part of the forenoon the heavens were filled with such glory
and wealth of color as surpassed any powers of description.
Similar magnificent phenomena were observed by Lieutenant
Lockwood and his party from Depot " 13."

The ci^mparatively short distance between the observer and
the phenomena is shown by various observations. At one time
a considerable part of the circle of 23° w'ith its mock sun was

* Tliis ribbon-like form to tlie aurora appe.ars to bi' an arctic oharactoristic.
As far as I know, it was lirst uotud by Wb ymjx'r during liis Alaskan cxperi*
euces, ami latur by Narea. It wasi tliy most gouoral form of all during our
many am-oral displays.

1881.]

SUNLIOITT TO DAnK^TESS.

121

most distinctly and dearly outlined against ('airn Hill, the
background of the halo not exceeding three-fourths of a niilo
in distance from the station. Captain Kares at Floeberg JJeach,
noted u mock moon but two hundred and fifty yards distant.
Later our astronomer, Sergeant Israel, a very reliii')le observer,
observed a mock sun against our meteorological observatory, at
a distanco of less than thirty yards.

O'.ir first fire occurred on the22d — a largo hospital tent, pitched
near the house and used as a carpenter's shop. Despite prompt
efforts, the use of fire extinguishers, and plenty of water, the
tent and its contents were a total loss. Fortunately we had
duplicates of moL;t of the tools elsewhere. I had made it a
point to scatter and divide our stores, and, though an incon-
venient arrangement at times, it afforded security against ir-
reparable disaster from fire. Carelessness, as usual, caused the
conflagration. Early in the month a fire-hole six feet scpiaro
had been opened in the harbor-floe, so water was at hand.
Later a fire organization was planned, and one or two false
alarms made all familiar with their ])laces and duties.

Although the straits were jammed with ice, yet considerable
open water remained in the neighborhood of JJistant Cape, and
on September 2^ith Private Council shot a fiord seal P/ioea
/lisjn'(hi), which ho was unable to obtain on account of Me ice.

September closed with the entire party in excellent health.
In addition to considerable meat eaten in the ilcld, nearly four
hundred pounds of birds and fresh musk-meat was consumed
during the nu)nth. Our stoves proved unsuitable lor the in-
ferior (juality of coal, and, worse than that, burned live tons of
coal monthly, nearly double the proj)cr amount.

The mean temperature for Septendter was 10.02^ (—11.71°
C), the lowest on record, except that of Kane at Van Ilensselaer
Harbor, 1^54, which was O.Sr (-12.33"" C). The minimum.

' i)

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122

TIIllEK YEAKS OF AlICTIO SKllVTOK

[Oct.,

— 11.9° ( — 2-1.4° C), is the lowest on record as far as my knowl-
edge goes. Through the effects of this reniarkahle cold the
new harbor-lloe increat^ed during the month from four and
three-eightlis to fifteen inches in thickness.

The last few days of sunlight were filled in Mith hunting
trips and short excursions in the neighborhood of the station.
The fisherineii then failed in Lake Vlexandra as the hunters by
land, but game and fish wei'e to be j-ad, for fish had been seen
and glimpses of game obtained. Lieutenant Kislingbury saw
seven ptarmigan {La(/oj)i(s riijttsiris) on October 2J, which had
replaced their summer plumage of l>lack and brown by a perfect
coat of spotless white. These birds beyond doubt are winter
liabitants of Cirinnell Land, but these were the last specimens
seen that autunm. During the Arctic twilight they could be
seen only by accident, for their plumage so resembles the color
of new-fallen snow that only a keen eye can distinguish their
outlines. A prowling wt»lf visited our meat-caches, and a cun-
ning fox was seen near, only a few days before the sun left us
for the winter.

Sergeants Brainard and llice succeeded in reaching the sum-
mit of ^^()unt ( )vibos, but to do so they were ()l)liged to make
a long detour to the westward by way of Lake Alexandra. The
lake was two hundred and sixty feet and the sunnnit of IVfount
Ovibos twenty-two hundred and forty-four feet above the sea.
Their labors were rewarded by the sight of a few snow-covered
hogback mountains, far to the northwest.

The extremely rapid approach t»f darkness is a marked chai'-
acteristic of all very high latitudes. Jt will be reniend)ered
that the first star at midnight was not seen by w^ until Septejn-
ber yth, and yet on October Sth the use of lamps became neces-
sary within doors, except for an hour at midday.

' )ur last day of possible sunlight came — October 15th. All

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1881.1

SUNLTOIIT TO DAnKNKSS.

123

had an uneasy, restless feeling while watching and waiting for
the sun's appearance, the clouds in the south rendering it un-
certain if we should be favored with its rays at the station. I
visited high ground some distance to the nortliward for a better
standpoint. Just after midday, my journal says, "A few rays'
breaking through the clouds gilded to the north the rounded,
snowy sunnnit of the Hogback (two thousand and nine hundred
feet in elevation), while dense water-clouds, which rose from
Kennedy Chaimel to serve as a beautiful background to the
mountains of Daly Promontory, cut off all direct rays from
lower ground. From time to time the brightly illumined
clouds would drift slowly to the south, and as the delicate
shades of pearly gray gave way to gorgeous coloring of mellow
orange and fiery red, from moment to moment I hoped the
curtain would roll back and the sun shine forth. Once for a
few moments the red rays of refracted light lighted up the
iinier harbor and outer bay. This magic touch of color, blend-
ing with the snowy covering, gave a new glory to our Arctic
scenery, which was further intensified and idealized by the
rosy, curling columns of vapor rising in the dense, cold air from
the few water-spaces." The reds faded into yellow, the pearly
grays were rapidly replaced by the dull leaden hue, which told
that junshine had passed and the polar day had given way to
till long reign of twilight and Arctic darkness.

. I

CIlAPTKli XI.

Orit SCIKNTIFIO OUSKUVATIONS.

i i

;•' !

1* i 1

r III IK ]>riinary object ol; (ho Lady Franklin l^'iy Expedition
lieiiiii; to cany out tlic ticientilic progrannne of tlio liani-
biirg I'olar Conference, the utmost care was given to physical
observations. The series comnieiiced on July 1, 1881, at St,
John, Newfoundland, and terniir.ated Juno 21, 1884, forty
hours before tlio rescue of the survivors.

Sunnuaries of these, aud such other observations as are of
general interest. Mill be fouiul in the appendices of this work.
To avoid tediousness and repetition, allusions are made iu the
body of the narrative only to such as are of special interest or
im])ortance.

The observations as to the pressure oi the atnutsphere, tem-
perature and dew-point of the air, direction and force of the
wind, quantity, kind and movement of clouds, the aurora and
the state of the weather, were made hourly after the vicinity of
Fort Conger was reached.

On the upward journey by vessel the temperature of the sea-
water at the surface and when practicable at ten metres (32.8
feet), was noted iirst every four luiurs, and later liourly. On
occasion these observations were supplemented by soimdings,
with serial deep-sea temperatures by means of the Is'egretti-
Zambra thermometer. After our arrival at Conger, serial sea-
temperatures were recorded on the 1st, 11th and 21st of each
month, at which tiuie the thickness of the sea-floe was also

OUR ROIKNTIFIO OBSKllVATIONS.

125

noted. Sni'faco eea-tomperaturos were obsorvcnl the second
year at every liigh and low water.

Our observations were always made by AVasliington moan
time, and reference to that time is invariably meant when only
the hour and minute are given. To reduce to Conger mean
time, it is necessary to add forty-nine minutes.

The temperatures given in this narrative are corrected frt)m
tests with frozen mercury, that metal being assumed to solidify
at a temperature of — 37.1*° F. ( — 08.8" C). Thermometers
having but veiy small errors at high temperatures required large
corrections at —40" (—40° C), reading from two to five degrees
too low. Some of our alcohol thermometers were so unreliable
that they were never used. T could have sent these costly spirit
thermometers into the field, from which actual though erroneous
readings of -SO" (-()2.l3" C.) to -00° (-(17.8" C.) could have
been obtained. Extremely low temperature readings, made in
connection with Arctic explorations or otherwise, must be re-
ceived with caution, uidess the history and accuracy of the
thermometer can be vouched for. Jlonest but inexperienced
obseivers, in ignorance of the true f:i"'.s have frequently misled
themselves and others.

Some excellent standard thermometers, of bisulphide of car-
bon, pure spirits of wine, and ether, were made for the expedi-
tion, under the careful supervision of Professor Waldo of Yale
College ( )bservat()i'v. Tliey were graduated in millimetres arbi-
trarily, and so served as an excellent check on other instruments.
Their errors at freezing mercury jtroved to be inconsiderable,
less than a degree Fahrenheit.

Our thermometers were exposed in a large wooden shelter of
Louvre pattern, four feet square and seven high, which was sit-
uated about forty yards northeast of the house. The instru-
ments were fastened to a sheet-iron drum, so made as to revolve.

' U

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126

TlIllKE YKAUS OF AIM lIC SKHVICK.

whicli was pliioldi'il liy aiuitliei" sinall .shelter, made alter tliu
Louvre }>atterii, of »j;aivaiii/e(l iron.

Tiio aiieiiioiiieter and wind-vane were placed on tiie ridge-
])ole of tlco main l)MiIdinii', wliere the exposure was oxeellent.

Observer making Temperature Observations at Fort Conger.

In order to secure nxist reliable barometric readings, the
observer, before making the current ol)servatioii, verified each
hour the vernier reading of the preceding liour, and in case a

OUU SCIKNTIFTO OMSEUVATIONS.

127

change greuter than .03 inch in the hour had occurred tlie ol)-
surver reported it to me, wliether day or niglit.

The sohir ami terrestrial radiation tliernionieters i'urnislied
the expedition luid sucli limited range to Iheir scales, that the
observations Avere necessarily discontinued at tlie most impor-
tant seasons, i.e., from thti mitldie of October to March 1st.

The magnetic observatory was situati'd about two liuiidrcil
yards northeast of the main buiUling. It was a wootlcn structure,
aliiiut eight by I'ourtiiuu i'eet in size, wliich \vas secured ami fas-
tened by wooden pegs in default of copper nails. A heavy !)aiik
of earth and sod to its eaves, su[>plemented by >iiowaiid ice dur-
ing the winter, somewhat ameliorated its Arctic temperature,
but it still remained an utu'omfortable building the iii'st y-ar.
])uring the term-days of the secoiul year, when the observers
remained in it the entii'c day, it was made comfortable by the
construction tif a snudl iireplace and chimiuy.

The magnetometer was mounted on a stout tripod, its solidity
bcinu ensured 1)V freeziiiir the le^s of the stand into the earth.
Of this instrument ten readings were made hourly, except on
the 1st and l.")th of each month, which were hnowii as term-
days. On term-day two I'eadings weie made evei'v 1i\e niimites,
except diH'ing oiu; hour, when two readings wei'e made every
twenty seconds.

Foi' the uninitiated it should be said, that the object of these
readings was to note the declination of tlie magnetic needle.

In tlie greater part of the world the compass does not point
to the geographical pole, and the saying, " true as the needle to
the pole," is only an inaccurate simile. The magnetic declina-
tion of any place is the difference between the geographical
pole and tlie (piarter to which the needle actually points, and is
measured in degrees to the cast or west. For instance, where
the needle points to the true west, the declination is said to be

I h

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128

TirUKK YKAUS OF AUCTIO SKUVICE.

; J

l;l

DO'' W., ami when pointinj^ to tho Bouthwest, to bo 1135° W. At
Fort Coiigcr, in lS8i3, the nuignetic noccllo jiointed between the
west and southwest, tho decliniition being 100° 13' \V.

Jn tiie mugnetonioter a sniall magnet, freely suspended by a
single fibre of untwisted silk, swings readily in any horizontal
direction. Tliis magnet, at Conger, was never (juiet, not even
on what are technically known as cahti days, but swung to anil
fro in a restless, imcasy way, wliich at various times impressed
iiie witli an uiicamiy feeling (piite foreign to my nature. As it
swung to right and left, its movement was clearly outlined on a
fixed, illumined, glass scale, which served as a background, and
the extreme oscillations, seen through a small telescope by the
obsei'ver, -were recorded.

In the other etid of the buil<ling was placed, on a stable pier,
a dip-circle, fVom which the inclination or dip of the magnetic
needle was hourly (letcriniiicd. A magnetic needle, nicely and
delicately balanced, in the middle latitudes assmnes a nearly
level position. At Conger, however, the needle, adjusted so
that it can move freely in a vertical plane, shows a strong
tendency to assume an upright position. At a dip of !>0'^ the
needle would be erect, while at Conger the inclination was
about S5'\

In speaking of this instrument, it is necessary to say that a
di)i-circle was especially made for tho Lady Fraidvlin I'ay Ex-
pedition, l)ut it was by error shipped to the irnited States Coast
JSurvey. On calling for it, when the duplicate instrument or-
(k'rc<l could not bo had in time, the late ]\[r. Carlisle Patterson,
then Superintendent, promptly promised that it should bo sent
to me at Kew York. < )n the day of my sailing, a dip-circle,
carefully boxed, was received ; but on opening it, at St. Jolm,
an old, I'usty, nm-eliable instrument was found in tho place of
the new circle This resulted in unsatisfactory and incomplete

(tun SCIENTIFIC OIJSKltVATlONS.

IL'9

observations at Conj»er, for the old circle having upright staiid-
nrds instead of transverse ones, as in the new, but one end (d"
tiic needle could be read. It nmst always be a matter of regret
that this unwarrantable and unauthorized substitution by some
person was made, which materially impaired, it not effectually
destroyed, the value of our two years' dip-observations.

Accurate tidal (d)servations in high latitudes have always
been ditRcuIt to obtain. As far as I know, the two years' ob-
servations obtained by the expedition formed tlu; lirst uid)roken
series of any length ever made from a fixed gauge in a very
high latitude. For tlie greater part of the time, the gauges in
use were iron rods, forced as far as possible into the stiff clayey
bottom. T»t keep open the tide-hole re(iuired the constant
labor of two men, and occasionally t)tlier assistance was given
when the gradual, steady nuivement off shore of tlm main-lloe
required a corresponding extension of the tide-hole. The main
Hoc mt)vcd in one winter nearly tweiity-iive feet ojf tihoi'e. To
prevent the rapid formation of ice in tlu; tide-hole, a large
snow-house was built over it. Additions were made to the
original house fi'om time to time as the lloe moved. Despite
this protection, the ice in the tidediou-se formed to a thickness
of eight feet, partly from tidal overflows. The tidal observa-
tions of Conger were supplemented by observations on iixed
gauges at I'lack Horn Cliffs and llepulsc Harbor on the North
(ireeidand coast, at Capes Sumner, Haird, lU'ccliy, Cracroft,
and Distant Cape, Avhicli, being sinudtaneous with those at
Conger, can readily be reduced. These I'eadings have been
submitted to the Superintendent of the ('nited States Coast
Sm-vey, and, united to those of the British expedition at Floe-
berg Beach and Discovery Harbor, in 1875, and by IJessels at
Thaidc God Harbor, in 1871, will probably enable that tidal-
expert. Assistant C'hai'les Schott, to determine satisfactorily the

. ( < I" i

i|i ^

i:{()

TiiuKK YKAKs oK .Mic'i'ic si:i:\- ici:.

oo-tidal curves of IIoIk-hmi and K'cniicdy CliiUiiiels and llii! cii-
tniiK'n to tlio I'olar Sea.

Our tiiiu! observations wero nmdo from a transit kindly
loaned the expedition hy tlie wiperintendeiit of tlie Coast Sur-
vey, which was in iMoih-i'ately servii-eahie condition. The
chrono<;raph, howiver, whicli was furnished i'or tlie especial
piu'pose of rci!;istcrint( the star observations for time in con-
nection witli the pciidulmu observations, was an incomplete,
broken-down affair. It certainly was sent by a careless or
incompetent ])ers()n, whose action camt; Jiear frustrating the
plans of his department for a valuable and unparalleled series
of observations. l'\»rtunately. Sergeant (Jardiner, of the Sig-
nal Corps, was an instrument-maker, and while be with other
aid rebuilt the chronograph, I reconstructed the electrical por-
tion (d' it.

The pendubun observation.s wero due to the intelligcitit and
liberal action of the Superintendent of the Tnited States (Joast
Survey. Under the instructions and supervision of Assistant
Charles S. J'ierce, of that bureau, a beautiful pendulum was
especially made for this woi'k. In defaidt of a brea-k-circuit,
chronometer, for use; with the rliniii(igraj)h in time observations.
Professor Pierce kindly loaned his nun chronometer, which was
used in the penduluin work. As a recogiutiou of this action, I
felt it incumbent on me to see that the instrument was returned,
and so, in all the dark d.ivs of our retreat, that chronometer was
carefully looked after, and has since been delivered to Profes-
sor Pierce.

My astronomer, Sergeant Edward ]srael, bad received from
Professor Pierce careful and detailed instructions concerning
the penduluin w'ork. Professor Pierce bad pointed out to me
the importance not only of uniformity of temperature, but of
determining accurately the temperature of the pendulum. The

OUR SCIKNTIFIf! rmsERVATIONS.

131

proliloiii was not an easy one, from tlu^ stul»l)()rn way in wliicli
lioatt'd air risi's aiul ct>l<l air talis. Tlic nccfssity of piers with
great stal)ility was t)]jvioiis, l)iit tlio eontlitions at Conger ro-
(jiiired tiie construetioii of Hiieli piera on frozen ground and at
tomperaturcs below zero Falirenhoit.

Sergeant (Jardiiicr and I'rivate (Vmni'll, under my direc-
tions, succeeded in building strong, stable piers, l>ricl< and
I'ortland cement bad been purcliased for tlio purpose at St.
John's. The site selected was in a lean-to built on the north side
of the otH(!crs' room. Holes three feet square were (hig to a depth
of about twenty-seven inches, the ground being found frozen
at a depth varying from twenty-two to twenty-four inches.
Over these holes a tent was ]>itchi'd, and alcohol lamps lighted
within it to raise the temperature. On the bottom of the holes
dry, liot ashes were spread, and then two courses of bricks wero
laid. As the bricks had been previously heated to a tempera-
ture of IT)!) , the cement formed before the temperature fell to
the freezing-point. In this manner the piers were finally built
in a solid, substantial manner. Around the piers a house was
erected of ice-slabs, which maintained an almost constant and
exceedingly uniform temperature. French plate-glass being set
in the front of the ice-house, and in the door leading into the
officers' I'oom, the observer was able to remain comfortably in
the latti'r room, aiul by a set of reflectors throwing light on the
pendulum to read its oscillations througb a telescope.

Several setsof maximum and minimum thermometers were so
disposed as to show the ranges of temperature at the head, the
centre, and the bottom of the pendulum, and one thermometer
was so placed that it c(»uld be read at any time by the telescope
from the otlicers' i-f)oni. These arrangements were so successful
that the range of temperature rarely exceeded live degrees Fah-
rcidieit, during an entire set of observations. Forty-eight

T^TT

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132

TIIUKK YKAKS OF AUC'IIC SllltvrcK.

swings of the pciulnluin wita correspoiuling time observations
were successfully made, and it is probable that these observa-
tions, under Professor Pierce's skilful discussion, Mill prove of
marked value to geodesy.

Kear the end of November, J.SSl, the observers began
to obtain samples of the air, according to instructions furnished
bv Professor Edward Morlev. The samples were to have been
analyzed l)y that gentleman in connection with his investiga-
tion as to the variations of oxygen in the atinosjthere. Unfort-
unately for his researches, the samples were necessarily aban-
doned, with other bulky a) id weighty collections, on the occasion
of our retreat.

An. excellent series of observations as to the velocity of sound
at low temperatures was obtained, which generally confirm the
theoretical law as to the effect of temperature on its velocity
in air, as deduced from observations at higher temperatures.
These experiments are dwelt on elsewhere more in detail.

Experiments were made w'th a view of comparing the actual
with the theoretical dew-poim, ; and also many other special and
comparative observations were made which need not be here
refernid to at length.

Tiie number of obscvations made and recorded each day
were as follows: ^leteorological, i2.'>4 ; tidal, :i> ; magnetical,
iiO-t — aggregating r)2<> daily. On term-days t..e mnnber of
lUagnetical observatio'.is were increased to ovei- twelve hundred,
so that the observers were always busy.

Sergeant Israel had all the astronomical work, and the obser-
vations of magnetic intensity to attend to, and was also in gen-
eral charge of the magnetic work. Lieutenant Eockwood and
i did duty as observers tm term-days. Sergeants (Ja'-dincr,
Jewell, and Ivalston were particularly charged with meteoro-
logical and tidal work, being occasionally assisted by Sergeant

OUR RCIKXTIFIC or.SKlIVA'lIONi!.

133

Israel and I'l'ivato Henry. Suriicant Kico, the second year,
noted tliu liiyli and low tides and tiea-teinperatures, being at
times relieved by I'rivate J.oiii;;. Private ("onnell likewise
assisted at times in niakini; nieteorok)gical observations, and
dm'ing all pendulum, time, and sound, expei'iments Mas in
cliariTO ol the clii'dnoii'i'aiili.

The rrog.
1.1 riiiilii'iii III lliiliimiii Chmiiiil, Mail, I'v'i,'. |

Fortunately systematic prejtarali(tn and wise previsinn secured
the sale rctiu'ii to this cnuntry ol' the observations made at the
cost ol' so nuu-h labor and care, thouiiii the bulkv ()riiiinal rec-
ords werti necessarily stored at Foil Conger.

I ,

CHAPTER XII.

HYOIENE AND KOUTINE.

WOHIIVI

rilllE question of tlie lioaltli of any Arctic expedition cannot
fail to interest most deeply the comniander, and re(|uires
at all times the utmost care and attention on his part. As
touching tlio health, but two complaints pertain ehpocially to
Arctic service — scurvy and frost-bite; in both of which "an
ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

As regards the (piestion of scurvy, it would seem useless for a
layman to dwell on a subject concerning which the doctors so
decidedly disagree. The gi'ound taken by the faculty in gen-
eral, that it is owing to mal-nutrition, is probably correct, but
when they go farther, and attribute it tn "a deficient sup-
ply of fresh vegetable fu(i<l," I think tin's opinion shouM be
received with caution, especially as the exact subshmces di;-
iicient are undetermined, and no pusitivc preventive against
tlie disease has been offered by any expert. As agaiii'^t the
fresh vegetal'lc theory may be advanced the Danish Eskimos,
ten thousand in number, who eat no poiuul of vegetable and
not a dozen ])ounds of l)read anmially. Tlicy are substantially
exempt from the disease, as are their l)rethre;' if ( 'ape York,
and the thdusands wh'. occupy the shores of the polar ba>iu
from ( umberland (Julf tn I'oii.t ISarrow and the .Mask.m
Archipelago. Bread, vegetables, and scurv\ arc equally want-
ing among them. The exemption of the Jlndiion Bay and the
^'orth American Indian tribes, similarly non-bread and non-

i^S.

IIVOIENE AND IIOUTINE.

135

vci^etable eaters, is equally marked. Ignorant of the subject of
medicines and diseases, it seems rash fur me to advance a theory,
or even a suj^gestiou. l>ut is not the disease owing to previous
as well as continued mal-mitrition, in connection with which the
abnormal conditions, checked in the patients by certain sub-
stances of their normal diet, develop into scurvy when the de-
teriorated physical condition is aggravated by adopting a diet
affording less than usual nutrition ( Is not tlie acknowledged
fact, th.. men who have been inmioderately addicteil h) the
use of alcohol first succumb, a signiticant one ? Its ])revalenco
among men from nations wliich are accustomed to daily and
systenuitic use ot" alcoholic drinks may be oidy a coincidence.
In any event, an oljserver cannot but be struck by the freedom
of American expeditions from this disease — Do Long's, Hall's,
Hayes', De Haven's {I believe), and my own. Despite the
scoi'butic symptoms in Kane's ill-fed party, no man died of it.

Nordenskiold, speaking of ]\[aosoe (near Xorth Cape, in about
71° N.) as luiving a raw, moist air, says : " Scurvy, especially in
humid winters, attacks the population, educated and uneducated,
rich and poor, old and young." The remedy mentioned by
Xordenskiold caused me to add cloudberries {Iiiifnis c/uuiui'ino-
■j-ns, L.) to my dietary, but iliey were not obtained in time.
The freedom of Nordenskiold's crew from sickness on tlie
Vega expedition, though lie wintered on the Arctic Circle, and
I a thousand niiies north of it. had an i'ltlueiu'c on my ilietary;
the exemption in his voyage seeming to me in a measine due
to variety, (piantity, and ouality of food.

My dietary list was shaped (»u the assumption that scurvy
is a disease residting from malnutrition, which would l)e
fostered by dampness, uncleanliness, mental ennui, too strict
diseipline, excessive exercise or labor, :ind by rcijidar an<l .sy/.s-
ttiiKidi- use of alcoholic bcvei'aiies. I bv no means a-sume that

'J I '

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130

TIIUKK YKAIIS OV AUC'l'lC SKilVM'K.

our exemption from this disease resulted jtoiu my dietary list
and hygienic rules, but let who will pass on the vexed (picstion.
I believe, however, that our largo supply of fresh meat played
a most important role in our freedom from scurvy.

From the commencement I considered it of primary impor-
tance, that tlie food-supply should be of excellent quality, liberal
amount, and of a diversified character. The J'ritish Arctic cx-
peditioii of 1S75-1S7<| were fortunate in having such men as
Admirals llicliards. Sir L. McCMiiitock, and Slierard ()sl)(>rii
as an Advisory (.Vtmmittee, ti) arrange tlie di'tails as to stores
and provisions to be i'C(|uired, and a^ t<> the sanitary arrange-
ments to be followed. A large and intelligent medical staff waa
also at hand to suggest and to I'etnedy any oversights whicli
might occur in the requisitions.

The experiences of that expedition had shown, however, that
in regard to this great Arctic disease the surgeons had been un-
able to recommend .--uch diet as would infallil)ly guard against
its occurrence. ( )ver forty-eight per cent, of the entire com-
plement of the iJritish expedition suffered frcnn scurvy, and,
excluding those who did no Held service, the percentage jirobably
reached as high as seventy.

My surgeon was in (-Greenland at the time of outfitting, and it
fell to me in three days' time to complete my list t>f stores,
which lack of fimds j-revented my properly supplementing
later. T had, indeed, given much attention to the question of
equipment and food-supj)ly, but my knowledge was entirely
theoretical. It is proper that I should acknowledge my indebt-
edness to that most celebrated Arctic explorer. Professor A. E.
Nordenskiold, for tin* benetits dei'ive(l from bis varied cxpei'i-
ence as given to the world. In selecting articles of food I
profited largely from the judicious advice and opinions of liia
surgeons and himself. Advantage was also taken of recom-

]IV(iIKNK AND IIOUTINE.

137

inundations made by Sir George Kares in his published com-
ments on the articles provided for his expedition. It is natural
that one should have ideas and theories peculiarly their own,
and such gave direction to certain features of my supply table.
Condensed milk, butter, and oatmeal were taken in (piantities
from a ton to a ton and a half each, so that the habit of daily
use of these articles in middle latitudes should not be discon-
tinued in the high iioi-tli. Cheese, maccuroiii, condensed eggs
—all considered important — were in liberal quantities. The
supply of fruits, canned in as nearly a natural state as possible,
was very large, consisting of ap])les, peaches, pears, grapes,
quinces, etc., su' '■ aented by rhubarb, gooseberries, etc. Of
vegetables tli' ■ •. re camied onions, potatoes, tomatoes, l^eets,
carrots, s<]uas. okra, asparagus, corn, beans, peas, etc., of which
I coi sidered the first three the most important. In di'ied fruits
were apples, peaches (unpeeled), dates, figs, prunes, raisins^ etc.
I'r'.'sjrves were in quantities, as also jut-kles, condiments, etc.
Tliu amomit of food per man each day actually eaten in our
two ycai's at Fort Conger was as follows :

Oinicis.

Fresli musk-meat Ki.O

Fresh liinls ami liaio 0.8

Camiecl meats, souiis, ete 1.(>

Canned linli (1.5

I'eiiiiiiipan (1.4

I'oik, bacilli, anil .<a!t lieel' . . . t.'.(i

]5uttei- ':.;]

Lanl ().(i

11am (5

Milk !.(>

( 'ollilellSdd egi,'S (1.4

CliUUoO 0.4

Total— meat, etc 'M.S

Canned ve^'etalile.s 10.0

Ounces.

Flour T)..")

Oatmeal and ecinimeal iJ . 8

Ilaid liiead :!.2

i^laeeardiii 0,4

Farina, corn-starch, ete 0.;j

llice and hominy \ ,~t

IJeans and }ir:\>i: 0.4

Total — farinaceous

, . i;j.a

Tan lied ajiples 1 .•?

Other c.iiiiied fruits l.,5

Cranlierrv same and rhiiliarl). 2.0

Total— fresh fruits 4.7

Sugar (white) 15.5

Syrup 1.8

Total — saccharine

5.:}

Dried fruits 0.8

Preserves (iiicliidinLr fiuit-hut-

ters) 1

IMckles 11

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138

TIIUKK YKAliS OF AIM'TIC SKUVrOK.

This uggi'cgrate of ()-t.3 ounces would doiilttk'ss he iiH.'iva.^r<l l^y
coffee, chocolate, tea, spices, condiments, etc.. to nearly "<• ounces.
This amount may reasonably bo assumed as the (quantity of
food necessary for the maintenance of a m:in"s hcaltli in a lati-
tuilo such a«i(.\)nger, where the annual mean temperature is — 4 '
V. ( — 20° C). The above food was eaten, not wasted. The
garbage from the cook-house was but trifling, tliis resulting from
the phm followed — the men receiving a certain amount per day,
from wliich they paid for their food. The (piantity and quality
of food depending solely on my judgment, which guardi'd on one
side against tlie temjjtation to save, as the other plan did against
waste. My avoidance of larger (piantities of cainied meats re-
sulted from my opinion that their nutritive (jualities are materi-
ally impaired by their tastelessness, and I (piite concur with the
opinion put forward by Dr. Envall, of Nordeiiskiold's e\[)e(li-
tion, 18T2-7o, who, speaking of the tasteless condition of cer-
tain of their meat sU})plies, says : '• One gets disgusted with it,
and this effect on the taste prol»al)ly has an inlhience on the
nutrition, and therebv indirectlv on the nutritive value of the
food."

It is needless to say that tlie ai)ove list (»f supplies varies
somewiiat from that which I wouhl now make. This result
is in accordance with the invariable experience of Arctic com-
manders. Even in as carefully a considered undertaking as
the liritish Arctic expedition of ISTo, commonsalt, liy an over-
siglit, was omitted in the Alert's supply. In a list of twenty
articles of fcjoil. Sir (reorixe Xares .•onunents on fullv one-
tpiarter as being, in his opinion, insr.ffi ;ient as an allowance for
Arctic .service. There have been few expeditions whicli have
not found similar deticiencies in tpiantity, variety, and (piality
of their provisions.

Tiie nio^t material changes toward an improvement of my

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own list WDiiId consist in tiu; inci-eiisc! ol" v('<retable8 to 12^
ouiiees, of tlour to D oimccs, iiiid ;i more divorsitiod Holuctlon oi'
canned meats. Tomatoes were found to l)e our best vegetal)le,
our experience being that the hist cans were as good as tlie lirsf,
and no hirge eater of them was otlierwise tliau in health. A{)|)les
and peaches were our best fruits. Of beverages, coft'ee, tea, and
chocolate were in apiple (quantity. Knougli good cider (not yet
hard) was taken to insure a lialf pint once a week for the first
year. Apart from the regular medical supplies of brandy and
whiskey, I took one hundred gallons of New Kngland runi,
which was a modest allowance of one and a half gills iced:/;/.
'riie amount, owing to a number being iinndrinking men, was
about two gills weekly for eat li man. ( )ne gill waN issneil a> a
rule each Sunday, and the other on birthday.s and festivals. The
influence of the liquor was undoubtedly beneficial, as it in-
variably tended to enliven the spirits and increase the cheerful-
ness of the men. In addition to an e(iual or slightly larger
amount, I would recommend to future exjjeditions that it be
supplemented by half a pint of light wine weekly. In no in-
stance was rum served riijulad;/ as a ration, either in (piarters
or on sledge jnm-neys. Dr. Knvall expresses my opinion, when
he .says: " 1 believe spirituous liquors to be (»f great use in
small and moderate quantities, but exceedingly mischievous and
pernicious in case of the least excess." I took personally twenty-
live gaUons of wine, but the ofVicers, deciding at St. John not to
follow my example, carried no supply of licpior, a coui'se they
especially regretted afterward.

E.vcept for a few weeks, and during my absence in tlie field,
I made the dietary my per.sonal care. No one knew a day be-
forehand (e.xcept in special cases) what the dinner woidd l)e.
Every attempt was made to prevent the men from tiring of any
food, and a general liking for any article caused it to be served

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TIIUKK YKAllS OF AJU.'TIC SEKVICK.

spariiijj;]}'. Tlio cooks, as a niU*, wore clianged iiioiitlily, wliicli
ifuve varioty to the stylo of cookiiii;, and rai'oly rosiiltod in cause
I'or complaint. ^o\\\^ was served daily, ami on alternate week-
days the (K'ssiTt was a made one or consisted oi" canned fruits,
wliile on Snnday it included both classes. Oatmeal or cracked
wheat was served every morning, in addition to meat of some
kind. Ki'i'sli liak<'il lircad niulcr Long's skilful niainifacture
was always light and sweet, and was served for one meal daily,
except during three days in the week of the last year, when
it was necessarily replaced l)y fresh corn-bread. Hoth coffee
and tea were regularly served, and chocolate once or twice a
week .

In addition to breakfast at ".;»<> a.m. and dinner at 1 i-.m., two
lunches were providetl, which consisted of hard bread, butter,
tea, and coffee in mdimited cpumtities.

Tlie i'nllowing bills-of-farc lor lour successive days are taken
at random from my joui'nal. and give an idea of our table. To
avoid repetition, tea, coi'tee. butter, milk, etc., are omitted, as
they were always served :

Sunday.
lirealfdst. — Musk-beef hash, oat-meal, fresh bread, chocolate.
Dinner. — Pea-soup, roast musk-beef, baked nu^ccaroni with
cheese, rice jiuddiug, fresli peaches.

IVroNllAV.

Bredkfant. — Corned-beef, oatmeal, fresh bread.

Dliiiicf. — Vegetable soup, baked pork and beans, corn-bread,
stewed peaches.

Tuesday.

Jirealfad. — Musk-beef hash, oat-meal, fresh lu-ead.

Dinner. — Bean soup, roast musk-beef, tomatoes, fresli ap.
pies.

IIYOIENK AND ROUTINK.

141

Wi;r)NKst)Ay.
Jireakfant. — Musk-bcot' luisli, Ijiikcd jH)rk ami Ucauri, i'rcsli
bread.

Dinner. — Vegetablu soup, lujilcd ('(idtisli, hoiuiiiv. and cake.

Tlio table uf the otlicerrt was supplied from the sauie disliea
lis that of tlu! men, and the only dilfereiice consisted in the oc-
casional addition of peaches, pineai)ples, marmalade, etc., oi' a
can of shrimps, crabs, or some other delicacy. 1 had selected
a (piantity of these stores for the use of the officers, but later
decided i? was best to throw them into the j^ciicral mess. There
was no artick: which was not shared to a greater or less extent
among the entire expedition. This course, while not perh-aps
])racticable in larircr expeditious, should \n'. followed as far as
is possible in all. The otficers' meals wen; served by the cook,
while tlie .second cook, who was changed I'ach wec^k, waited on
the table of the men.

Every attempt was made to insure carofid serving of food,
and to this c\\(\ reguiar crockery (with sou})-tureens. soup-
plates, etc., complete), silver-plated spoons and fork-;, and sev-
eral table-cloths were purchased for the men's use. The table-
linen, changed twice a week, was kept neat and clean, and the
table always presented a tidy, creditable appearance. The
room-orderly, detailed daily, assisted the undercook in setting
the table and in removing and wa>hing the dishes. The mid-
day and evening lunches were not served, but simply set (»ut on
a side-table, where each man took M'hat he pleased during a half
hour's time. The night ob.server was allowed a midnight lunch.

The party was particularly free from prejudices as to the
various articles which made up our diet, antipathy to tea and
chocolate being the most nuirked. The former was fortunately,
on the part of men who did little Held serx'ice, a i)lace where

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TIIUEE YKAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICK.

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the use of tliis indispensable und favorite Arctic beverage was
obligatory.

The experiences of all Arctic expeditions point to a m'cII-
planned routine and proper discipline as of the greatest impor-
tance in the maintenance of health. At first I was not disposed
to insist on fixed ]K)urs for retiring, and none were ever obliga-
tory on the officers. The hopes that the novelty of contiiuial
day would wear off, and regular hours follow, proved fruitless,
and an ordei* was issued requiring the men to retire at 11 p.m.,
AVashington mean time, whicli corresponded to 11.49 p.m. local
time. Breakfast was at T or 7.30 a.m., at which hour all were
recpiired to be present, except observers who had night duty.

It was strange that the same disinclination to retire or to rise
was noticeable during the long Arctic night, as is so connnon in
parts of the world where dsy and night are more equally divided.
During the second winter the inclination to sleep w-as so marked
that an order was issued forbidding the general party from oc-
cupying their beds between 8 a.m. an<l .'5 r.M., except on Sundays.
For ten consecutive days during that winter my officers, by ob-
servation, slept from fourteen to sixteen hours daily, and it was
only by effort that I reduced my own sleeping-hours to nine
daily. '

I think it admits of no doubt, that cleanliness and the use of the
bath tciul greatly to promote and conserve healthy physical con-
ditions. The pores of the skin, freed from perspiration and for-
eign substance, and stimulated to activity by the bath, nuist bet-
ter perform their important functions. Most expeditions, housed
in vessels, have been obliged, owing to the trouble from moisture
engendered by the bath, to discontinue the practice entirely or
in part. With us a well-warmed !)ath-room, a large, con\onient
tub, with a plentiful supply of water at any desired tempera-
ture, made the bath a matter of pleasure and luxury rather

IIYGIEXE AND IIOUTINE.

tlian duty and penance. The obligatory rule of a bath weekly
needed tig enforceir:ent, for many bathed oftener, and one of
the officers for many long months never failed to bathe daily.

Xotwithstanding the large amount of moisture from the bath-
room and from the cook-house, it passed away readily and I'apidly
without leaving traces in thick layers of hoar-frost on walls or
floor. The attic-room, which naturally received the rising vapor,
retained such a small proportion, that, wlien the heat of advanc-
ing summer melted the frost on the inner side of the roof, we
had not more than two or three barrels of it to remove. Frost
never formed except on windows, and on the washboard to a
height of a foot or two from the floor. The beds and blankets
were turned down toward the centre of the room one day each
week, and oftener when apparently necessary. The only cases
of frost at the head of the bed and frozen bedclothing were in

connection with the bed of observers, which was almost con-
stantly in use, and in my own buid<, which was in an exposed
corner. Both cases received prompt attention, and no recur-
rence was noted.

The quarters were swept out daily, and every Saturday were
thoroughly overhauled for the coming Sunday inspection, the
only one of the week. The failure to provide more than half
a dozen brooms ^eft us soon without that simple but valual)le ar-
ticle, which was ingeniously replaced by brushes in which heavy
buffalo-skin did good service.

Exercise W'as encouraged among the men, but was very rarely
enforced, ^ly })ersonal distaste to exercise for its own sake
was so marked, that I hesitated to insist on it for others.
Sergeant lirainard, wlio served as the orderly sergeant of the
expedition, was instructed by me to use his ingenuity in finding
sntficient work of seeming value to keep certain of the men
busy in the air an hour daily, lie was usually successful with

144

TIIIIEE YEAllS OF ARCTIC SKUVIOE.

Ill'

these, and others of tlieir own inciiiiation kept out of doors from
one to three hours. The observers in their daily round had
enough, if not too much exercise at times. The rule was eight
hours on duty and sixteen oif, which applied to the three meteor-
ological observers, who were relieved by my astronomer of one
tour Sunday, which changed their hours weekly besides giving
them a complete day's rest.

Long-continued exercise in the open air while beneficial, is not
absolutely essential for all. J3uring the lirst winter, for a ])oriod
of three months successive! v, my out-of-door exercise averaged
but fifteen minutes daily, during which it was generally of a
very active character, as running at a slow gait. I carefully ob-
served my condition, but could see no resulting injury, being
entirely free from sickness. I considered it an experiment, and
later took much more exercise, but in winter never exceeded an
hour, unless I had loork to do. During this time I worked stead-
ily six houi's daily on records, observations, or in researcli.

The placing of instruments on Mount Cami)bell and Cairn Hill
was done with the ulterior motive of sending men to read them
at regular intervals during the winter. In this manner long
walks for some definite object were taken by many of these
men, who, fond of hunting or of work, were disinclined to stray
and stumble around to no purpose over the floe. The obtaining
of ice for drinking and other purposes also insured a certain
amount of daily work, particularly during the time the moon
was above the horizon, when a store of ice was accunnilated for
the dark days in the moonless period.

Some surprise has been manifested that this water did not
have a deleterious effect on our healtii, but none was ever
noticed. For over eighteen of the twenty-four months at Fort
Conger, the only water drank was obtained from the melting of
the paheocrystic ice in the harbor. There is no doubt that the

V 1

HYGIENE AND ROUTINE.

145

ice contained a considerable quantity of saline matter, caused, in
my opinion, by intiltration and etHorescence. The potable ice
\va3 of such color that a practiced eye at once selected it. The
tinge of bluish-white was a shade quite apart from that of the
salt-watci' ice, which had a somewhat deeper shade that bordered
on the greens rather than blues.''^ The ice was melted in a large
tank holding a lumdred gallons or more, which was provided
with pipes ruiming through the upper portion of our cooking-
range. The resulting water was used for cooking, bathing, or
drinking, though melting ice in a pail in quarters was in general
use for the latter purpose. The water, however, contained too
much salt to permit of its use for photographic purposes.

Most of our winter amusements were necessarily of a mental
character, owing to lack of space for much physical exercise.
The library was an excellent one, comprising about seventy-
five volumes of Arctic works, many eucycloptedias, scientific
works, etc., for the studious. There were probably a thousand
novels, magazines, and books of a light character.

Cards, chess-boards, backgannnun, parchesi, and other games
wei'e much in use, but no gambling, save for tobacco, was al-
lowed. One variety entertainment was given, and a semi-monthly
newspaper lived for two months only. Hunting was assiduously
followed as long as light lasted, and skatiiig was practised until
the roughness of the ice rendei'od it difficult.

One of the party had a vidliii ; and an orguinette, with about
fftij yards of nmsic, afforded nuich amusement, being par-
ticularly fascinating to our Eskimo, who never wearied grinding
out one tune after another.

AVhen these anmsements seemed stale, the luoiidtony was

• In travelling, opaque, "^'rauulatcd ice, resembling closely prosseil snow,
could usually l)o found to a depth of five or six inches on piilivocrystic lloea.
10

146

TIIUEE YEARS OF AlICTIC SERVICE.

ill, < y !

broken by a series of lectures coinincnced and generally jnaiu-
tained by nie. 1 lectnred some six times the first winter, on
ISound, Storms, l^Ligiietisni, I'oles (geographical and others),
Arctic Expeditions, and War Ileminiscences, which were sup-
plemented by readings. Lientenant Lockwood delivered two
lectures on Arctic Sledging, and L)r. Pavy one on Africa. The
second winter I was assisted in this work by Dr. Pav}-, who
lectured on 'napoleon, and by Sergeant Israel, wlio gave a series
of excellent and instructive lectures on Astronomy.

In addition to this variety and abundance of food, freedom
from moisture, personal cleatdinesi.., moderate exercise, regularity
of hours and meals, and attempts to promote chee inl annise-
nients, the ordinary medical precautions were followed. The
surgeon made regular exanunations of the party each Sunday,
and reported in writing each month. He was particularly di-
rected to reconunend such special and supplementary diet as he
might deem needful, and to report promptly any premonitory
signs of scurvy. The regulation allowance of lime-ji,'ce, one
ounce daily, was invariably issued, except when replaced by cider
or its discontinuance recommended bv the surgeon on account
of impaired digestion or for other reasons.

4M«iP

CHAPTER XIII.

SLEDGING IN THE ARCTIC TWILIGHT.

i' i '

nnilE disappearance of tlie sun by no means put an end to
our sledging work. After tliat time various parties were
employed in mining coal in Water-course Ravine, and in haul-
ing a portion of it to Depot " A," at Cape Murchison, where
some three thousand pounds were accumulated to serve as fuel
for sledge parties who might pass the night at that depot.
A small quantity was also hauled to the home station.

After consultation with mv officers, 1 deciilcd that the inaction
and monotony of our long winter should bo postponed as far as
]>ossible by the continuance of slod2;ing work after the sun had
left us and the Arctic winter ccnmiencod. The dangers and
prixations of this work were und jubtedly gnat, and such action
was contrary to precedent. In these matters elaborate and prac-
tical suggestions from our predecessoi'S are not to be lightly dis-
dained or neglected, but it is equally certaui that individuals
suited by temperament and character for Arctic work, after a
certain amount of experience, must not follow too blindly prec-
edent and theory. Tliey should be able to gauge correctly the
critical points of the situation, and the Ihnit of endurance to
which their men can safely be subjected. Such sound judg-
ment and darins; enerc;y are essential before the best and most
successful work can be done.

On October 2yd, seven days after the departure of the sun.
Lieutenant Lockwood, with Brainard, Connell, und Christiansen,

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148

TIIUKH YKAUS OF AUCTIC SKUVICK.

with a well-laden dog-sledgc, left for Depot " B." Their iiiission
was to construct a large, commodious snow-hoiifec, which was to
he made thoroughly comfortahle, and of siilHcient capacity fin-
any sledge-party which would visit it. It is certain that some
of the articles selected for house-furnishing were striking, ii not
uniciuo. My journal gravely sets forth that, in order to ])rop-
erly heat the snow-house, Lieiitenant Lockwood was to take a
few joints of stove-pipe, a small coal stove, and four hundred
pounds of the host fu(3l which the country aft'ordod — lignite coal
from Watercoui'se ^line. It was surely not according to prec-
edent, and seemed anomalous, if not ahsurd. Ihit why not coal
as well as oil, and a stove as well as a lamj), and so the coal
went. It performed admirably then as ever afterward, and if
at times the red-hot stove enlarged unduly the roof-Hue, it was
none the kssa cheery, delightful sight and comfort to the storm
stayed traveller, and in no wise impaired the strength and stabil-
ity of the structure.

While Lieutenant Lockwood and party wei-e building the
snow-house. Sergeant (xordiner and Private Ellis, with Jens,
added a half-ton of coal, mined in Watercourse Ilavine, to the
supply at Depot " A" (Cape Murchison).

The changing conditions of the ice in Robeson Chamiel were
sti'ongly evidenced by Lieutenant Lockwood's observations dur-
ing this journey, as compared with previous experiences that
autunni. From the summit of Mount Beaufort, on October
2()th, Ilobeson C-hannel was seen l)y him to lie open in all di-
rections ; tlie only ice to be seen in any (juartcr was small and
unimportant. Xo iloebergs could be discerned, save a few
grounded along the shore. It was hisoj)inion, that at that time
an Arctic vessel could have steamed, with l)ut little if any
trouble, direct from Cape Lieber to at least Kepulse Harbor.
Previously during September and October the channel had been

SLEDGING IX THE AltCTIC TWILKUIT.

149

densely ])acked with ice. Tliis jonnicy liaving resulted favor-
ably, 1 later decided on more iinportant ones.

One great drawback in the antunni work had been our in-
ability to cross ]lobeson Channel, in order to transport to the
eastern shore caches of provisions for the use of the party
which 1 intended to put in the field the next spring in order to
deterniino the configuration of the most northern point of
Greenland. It was also very desiiable that we should ascertain
the quantity and condition of the stores at Thank (lod Harbor,
so as to know what articles and amounts could be drawn from
that point for field use, or could be depended on in case a party
was detained on that coast. The young ice in September had
prevented any attempt to cross JIall J'asin by boat, and although
the weather had been nnprecedentedly cold in October, yet the
straits were in no ways fit at any time for an attempt at cross-
ing by sledge. This was shown conclusively by J^ieutenant
Lockwood's observations on October 20th. In the days follow-
ing his return the straits jammed with heavy ice, and the temper-
ature remaining steady at about —7^ F. ( — 21.7° C), it seemed
possible to Lieutenant Lockwood that a crossing to Greenland
could be made near Cape Beechy, which, being at the narrowest
part of Robeson Channel, is the point where the heavy floes drift-
ing from the Polar Sea most readily jam, and, cemented by rap-
idly forming ice, afford a safe passage to the (Jreenland coast.
I was thoroughly sensible of the extremely hazardous nature of
such an attempt, but I consented to the experiment, having full
confidence in Lieutenant Lockwood's prudence, and feeling thor-
oughly assured that his good judgment would cause him to
abandon the effort, as specified by his written instructions,
at such time as it might seem dangerous to proceed farther.
Lieutenant Lockwood left Isoveniber 2d, the temperature being
—6.5° F, (—21.4° C), with calm, clear weather, lie was ac-

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TIIUI.K YEARS OF AKCTIC WKUVICE.

coinpatiicd by Jirainard, lijiin, Jjiedoibick, 8alci', Cunnell, Ellis,
and Frederick, all oi' whom had specially volunteered for the
attempt. Fifteen days' rations, Avith complete camping-gear,
were hauled on the eight-man English sledge.

This party was speedily followed by a second, which, com-
posed of Dr. Pavy, Lieutenant Kislingbury, and Sergeant liice,
with both dog-sledges and Jens, left on 2sovember -ith to add
stores to the depot in Wrangel Bay. The trip from Mount
lieaufort to the south of Cape IJeecliy to Wrangel l>ay was
made inland, Dr. Pavy thinking that such route would facilitate
his movements. The cliffs on the north side of AV'rangel l»ay
were still washed by the open sea, showing that the storms of
the previous month had broken up the sea-lloe in many places.
The quantity of stores which Dr. Pavy was able to add to the
depot in AVrangel IJay was so small as to scarcely repay the
hardships endured by his party, and the results of the trip
emphasized the dithculty and fruitlcssness of autunni sledging
overland. Dr. Pavy's party reached the station on Is'ovember
Sth, having had no accident, or indeed sufferings, apart fiom
the great hardships wiiich are incidental to all winter sledging
in such high latitudes.

The hardiness of the Eskimo dog was illustrated by an in-
cident during this trip. One of the favorites, Clypsy, was in no
fit condition to travel, but insisted on following the sledge, and
the second da}' out gave birth to four pu]i})ies, which, left in
a snow-bank near Cape P>eecliy luitil the return of the party,
were brought safely to Conger.

Lieutenant Lockwood's party returned on the same day as
Dr. Pavy, having been unsuccessful in their efforts to cross
Jlobeson Channel, owing to the open condition of the straits.
Judging on his arrival at Cai)e Peechy that tlu; crossing by the
sledge alone would be imjjracticable. Lieutenant Lock wood de-

SLKDCilNO IN^ THE AK( Trc TWILKillT.

151

cided to take with him the whale-boat, but was compelled to
abandon that project as impracticable, as the boat was twenty-
eight feet lull!;- and the sledge but eleven. In conseijuenco he
sent to St. Patrick IJay and brought up by sledge the small, cedar
boat Discovery, and on Xovember Hth made a second attempt.

The sky at that time was overcast, and the outlines of objects
indistinct, in conse<pience of which the party experienced many
falls in travelling through the snow and over the ice-tloes.
The party had proceeded but two or three miles into the
straits, when they '• heard very distinctly the groaning of the
moving ice, like a distinct roar or the monotonous groan of a fly-
wheel." Lieutenant Lockwood, seeing in the distance a dark
line which seemed to indicate open watei', moved in advance of
the working party, and passed vn to a level floe, which he soon
found to be in motion. At this point the open condition of the
straits, the increased darkness, and the doubtful prosi)ect3 of
: uccess, wisely determined Lieutenant Lockwood to return to
Depot " B." An examiiuition of Jiobeson Channel on the
subsequent moiuing showed a channel uf open water of vary-
ing width, which was continually changing, according to the
movements of the pack.

His return to the station occurred during the spring tides,
which, forcing water through the tidal crack, had covered
the ice-foot in many places. On several occasions the new ice
which had formed over these pools was not sufliciently strong
to bear the party, and at times they broke through it, wetting
several to the knees. They were frequently obliged to travel
on this dangerous ice-foot, on account of the steep shore, which
was imjiracticable, owing to its occasional drifts and exposed
rocks. In the middle of St. Patrick Bay, after the dry ice had
been reached, the party was halted by Lieutenant Lockwood,
and the greater part of the men changed their foot-gear.

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TIIIM'K YKAltS OF AK( TIC Si:i;\ icK.

On camping :it Depot " A,'' ucfir Ciipo Miircliison, tlicy found
that I'livMtu iJiecloibiik liud frozen (piito Hevcioly ciic ol' his
toes, despite the clianges of fcjot-geai* (hiring the (hiy. As it
gave him imicli jiain, ho uas put into a 8leej)ing-hag, and
ha\ded on tiie tijedge to the station, lie was soon agaii\ lit for
duty, as tlie frost-bite, tliough severe, was I'ortunately sujierlirial.
Sergeants IJraiiiard, Jjnn, and Connell swfiered likewise from
slight frost-bites, though none of them wi'ie serious.

In regard to sledging along the Cirimiell J.and coast north-
ward, Lieutenant Lockwood says: "High, rocky, precipitous
blurt's follow the west contour of the coast-line, broken in by
gradually sloj)ing mountain-sides near Watercourse and Shift-
rudder I Jays. Sledging of any kind is ini{)racticable along this
route at any time, except on the ice-foot or main tloe. The
debris from the cliffs forms an inclined plane extending to the
edge t)f the sea. This slope is oidy occasionally such as to
allow travelling thereon, and even where j)ossible the alternato
bare rocks and steep snow-drifts make it extremely laborious.''

iVlong such a bold coast no satisfactory sledging woi'k can be
done until the bitter cold of winter has boimd fast into a secure
and solid mass the sea-tioes — the only true Arctic highway.

The temperature renuiined (piite steady at about —13"
(—25.0° ('.) during the absence of the party. The lowest tem-
perature noted was -20" (-32.2° C\).

Our sledge trips that autumn stand perhaps unparalleled, con-
sidering our high latitude, as the sun had been twenty-three
days absent when the last party returned to the station.

The results of these winter journeys satisfied me of the in-
advisability of sending sledge parties to any considei-able dis-
tance after the sun has left or before its return. The advan-
tages derived are rarely commensurate with th.e energy expended.
This does not apply to journeys entailing absence of one or

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SLKDGINO IN THE ARCTIC TWILIGHT.

two nights, H'hcre parties liave a certain and comfortable shelter
within reach.

The benefit which came from these journeys was largely
.moral, and resulted, in a great measure, from the fact that the
monotony of our first winter commenced only in the middle of
jSIovember, and not with the sun's departure a month earlier.

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CIlArTEU XIV.

OUlt I'lUST JJAKK i)AYS.

TT is tlie unknown wliicli awes and terrifies, and so, gazing
with a certain dread at the departing sun, the actual ex-
periences of the first dark days came to us as a relief, and not
as a hardship. For a time it then seemed tliat our brooding
imaginations had played us false, and that an Arctic night, un-
broken foi' nearly five months, was not so trying after all.

But, as the rapidly fading twilight gave place to darkness,
and day after day brought only the gloomy sky and growing
cold, we began to realize that it is not so much the conditions of
cold and tlarkness in themselves, which render life in the higli
north So insupportable, as their eternal reiteration and con-
timiing monotony.

That the long-continued darkness exercised a depressing in-
fluence on most of tlie i>artv was evident to every observing
person. Naturally no one was inclined to admit that he was
personally affected, but no one escaped this intluence. The
most marked signs among us were tendency to insomnia, indis-
position to exertion, irritability of temper, and other similar
symptoms abnormal to our usual characteristics both mental
and physical. In my own case, although following a set routine,
it was only with ditfieulty that I could limit my sleeping-hours
to a reasonable number, or apply myself steadily and success-
fullv to continued mental work. While free from mental de-
pression, insonmia, and feelings of lassitude which characterized

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165

some, yet I was at times affected by irritability of temper,
which it required a continued mental struggle to repress. But
few were exempt fi'om this symptom. ( )ur faces gradually
acquired a pale, yellowish-green color, which was disagreeable to
view, and the extent of which was not clearly appreciated until
the return of light.

The sun was last seen at the station October l-ith, and again
reappeared on February 2Sth, one hundred and thirty-seven
days later. There has been much written about Arctic dark-
ness, but the test usually given, that of text legible at noon,
conveys to most persons an inadequate idea of its intensity.
The sun, indeed, comes near the horizon at midday for a short
time, and the cfi'ect is apt to be overrated. At Fort Conger
stars were to be seen at local noon seven days after the sun
had gone for the winter, and so renuiined visible in a cloudless
sky for over four months. In all these days the southern hori-
zon lightened up with more or less glow, the effects of which
some have perhaps shown a great tendency to exaggerate, while
others have shown an eqtud disposition to lessen. It is true,
that on December iilst a twiliyht arch of several dea-rees existed
in the latitude of Conger, but the practical benefit from such
arch is disputable.^^ The darkness of midday at Conger was
such, for nearly two months in midwinter, that the time could
not be told from a watch held uj) with its face to the south.
From this it will l)o readily understood, that in midwinter the
light from the sun at noon is far less than that which is re-
ceived from the full luuoii in middle latitudes.

* This statement is made witli reference to astronomical twilight, whicli
ends when the sun is 18 ' below tlie horizon. With reference to wliut is
known as civil twilight, which ends at (i below, no twilight existed at Conger
during December. Ap irently opposing statements as to Arctic twilight re-
sult from au iudiscrimii. *,e use of these standards.

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TIIREK YEAT^S OP ARCTIC SERVICE.

Tlci'ardinf' the Arctic night in <;oneral, the light is very
slightly greater than that of clear nights in middle latitudes,
and as the sky is uinisnally cloudless at Conger, very dark
nights were uncommon. Whether it be, as I suspect, from the
great freedom of the atmosphere from dust or not, the stars of
one fainter magnitude could be seen at Conger than in lower
latitudes. The " milky-way," on very bright nights, was so
clear and distinct, that fre(]uently oi •stepping outside the door
it gave me the impression of a feeb auroral light, such as is
connnonly seen. The snow, too, seems to give out a certain
amount of line phosphorescent light. AV'^hether it stores up the
light received during the prevalence of the moon or not, and
i-eflects it later, I cannot say.

Tlie light from various sources was such in amount, that only on
a few cloudy, stormy days were we ever prevented bv darkness
from taking our regular exercise. The departure of the sun
and the coming of winter weather were nearly cohicident. On
October 8th the 7ne((/i temperature sank below zero (—17.8° C),
there to remain contimiously for six months and a day. For
over five months, Xovember to !^[arch inclusive, no .um/le ob-
servation was noted higher than —3^ ( — lit. 4° C). Our lowest
October temperature, —31.1'^ (— 35. 1°C.), occurred on the ISth,
tliree days after the .sun left. The mean for that month was
— d.)i2^ (—22.9° C), which has but twice been exceeded.

During the month of October the leisure hours of the men
were occupied in banking up the house quite thoroughly. A
wall of ice, •'^ix feet high, was constructed some three feet
from the house, and was i-endered wind-proof by a coating of
wet snow. The space between the wall and house was later
filled in with loose, dry snow, an excellent protection from its
great non-conductivity to heat. The second year we improved
on the arrangement of the first year, and carried the wall of ice

OUU FIRST DAltK DAYS.

157

and snow up to the very eaves of tlie liouse, a work which
atlded much to our winter's comfort.

October 25th, ten dujs after the sun had gone, we were mucli
surprised by one of the party making tlie startling announce-
ment tliat the sun was to be seen in the southern sky. It
proved to be a beautiful mock-sun, which remained visible
nearly an liour, Its burning colors being watched witli attentive
interest as the reflected image that I'cvealed the course of our
lost luminiiry. It showed a brilliant disk of blue, yellow, and
red, about four degrees above the horizon, with bars of white
light extending from its centre upward ami downward. I know
Oi no other instance in which this phenomenon has been wit-
nessed after the going of the winter sun.

Our ])hot<)gi'apher succeeded a few days later, despite the
absence of direct sunlight, in making a fair negative, by expos-
ing a sensitive dry plate for an hour, and was similarly success-
ful seventeen days before the return of the sun.

The hunters continued in the field throughout all October,
more for exercise than in any M'ell-founded hopes of shooting
anything. The existence of game was imdoubted, for, during
the last three days of the month, two wolves and a fox were
seen, and a hare crossed the iJutch Island trail on freshly
fallen snow within a mile of the house.

There exists a general impression that the nearer the geo-
graj)hical pole is reached the I)rigliter and more frequent are
auroral displays. The region most favored with such phenomena
is a belt of country in ^'oith America, south of the magnetic
polo, in about latitude 00° iS'., over a thousand miles to the
southward of our station.

Some of our displays were grand and magniticent in the
extreme, but in general they were lances of white light, having
perhai)s a faint ting'e of golden or citron color, which appeared

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TIIUEK YEAKS <>F ARCTIC SERVICE.

as moving shafts or spears under tlie formation known as
'* merry dancers." The aurora of Grinnoll F.and is by no means
comparable with those of glowing, burning colors, such as are
to be seen in Hudson ]>ay country and Siberia, and some of
which have been so vividly portrayed by Keiman in his '* Tent
Life in Siberia."'

( )nr first winter was marked by displays about twice each
week, in which the arch was the most common form after the
streamer ; magnetic disturbances were rare during colorless and
slowly changing forms. The list of auroras will bo found
among the appendices, but the following brief description covers
the most remarkable and striking displays of the early winter.

The aurora of October 2Sth, although of short duration, was
nuirked by heavy magnetieal disturbances, which attained the
maxinnnn eight minutes after the last ray faded. The stream-
ers were numerous and very brilliant, despite their colorless
character. At one time their shining lances of light converged
into a beautiful corona, which seemed to rest, a crown of golden
light, on the dark brow of the high cliffs to the southwest.

November 1-ttli : " In the shape of a nebulous mass, much
reseml)li)ig a mass of freshly escaped steam, which appeared to
be brilliantly illiuiiinated by reflected rays from a powerful
calcium light, (ienerally colorless, it once showed a delicate
rosy tinge for a few moments."' Later: "A beautiful and
brilliant arch, about 3^ wide, formed of twisted, convoluted
bands of light, similar to twisted ribbons, extended from the
southwest through the zenith to the northeastern horizon.
(Occasionally well-marked and clearly defined patches of light
detached themselves, as puffs of smoke from a pipe, and drifted
fading to the north-northwest. The arch seemed to be con-
tinually renewing itself from the southwest to fade at the op])o-
site end."' Perhaps a better idea of this peculiar formation

OUR FIKST DAKK DAYS.

159

may he conveyed by likening the display to an arch having the
appearance of a revolving, endless sci'ew. This formation was
by no means infrequent, but 1 have never seen it elsewhere, or
known it to be described. The ribbon shape ^seenis an Arctic
and unusual form. It was first recorded, I believe, by Whyui-
per in his Alaskan experiences, and later by Xares in 1ST5.

December 10th : " A particularly tine aurora, like a pillar
of glowing fire, from horizon to horizon through the zenith,
showing at times a decideilly rosy tint, and later a Xile-green
color."

The monotony and unchanging character of Arctic life
afford few chances of connected or interesting narrative, so I
shall frecpiently quote freely from my journal, as giving the
clearest idea of our life by showing how eagerly apparent trities
are touched and dwelt on.

Other than the departure of the sledge parties which left the
station in the early days of November, the most important in-
cidents were the l)irths of the two litters of pu])s, live of which
came on the "2d and live on the iJd of the month. My
journal of November 4th says : " Two of the last litter and one
of the first have died, and another was eaten by one of the
pack. This evening the remaining pups of the last litter were
for a time abandoned by their mother, who left them to quarrel
with the mother of the other litter, which were in the same
room with her. During tlie tenqwrary absence of the mother,
we ])laced one of her pups with the other litter, but it was
pushed away by the indignant parent, who declined any ad-
dition to her cares. Finally the deserting mother returned to
her {)uppies.''

Another litter came a few days later, and one of the mothers,
waiting her opportunity, seized one of the pups of the new
litter and was about to devour it when discovered, too late to

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tihm:k ykahs of arctic skuvick.

save its life. It was fuiind to Iju a coiuinoii practice for the
dogs to seize and devour young pups, but, although the I)itches
ate readily the litters of others, it never fell under our notice
th;it a mother ever ate one of lier own pups.

These dogs were placed in the care of I'rivate Schneider, as
our Eskimos were of the opinion that they could not survive.
The experiences of our ])redecessors had shown the ditiiculty, if
not impossibility, of raising litters born in the early winter.
Our original teams, however, had been so thinned by dog-dis-
ease that I felt the importance of attempting to strengthen
them, for at least the second winter, l)y raising these recruits.
Nares also says pertinently, ''An Eskimo is anything but a
good uurse, and although Frederick is a valuable man in other
ways, he cannot be iuducetl to take sufficient care of the young-
dogs." My experiences were the same, and I selected for the
work Private Schneider, lie devoted much time and attention
to them, and eventually succeeded in raising fifteen puppies, all
of which were of great benetit to us in subsequent sledging
operations. The disinclination of onr jnqjpies to open their
eyes on the tenth day more than ever contirmed their keeper
in the opinion that the Eskimo dog is an extraordinary animal.
Those raised by Schneider were also broken to harness success-
fully, and driven l)y him the following summer.

"Onr doii's would now never be reco<i'ni/.ed as the same
wolfish, smipping, untamed animals obtained at the Greenland
ports. Good care, plenty of food, and kind treatment bad filled
out their gaunt frames, put them in good working condition,
and made them as good-natured, affectionate, and trustful as
though tliey bad never been pounded, half starved, and gener-
ally abused from their puppyhood upward." Half-starved ani-
mals, M'ho have never been kindly spoken to, and who have
been cruelly beaten on the slightest pretence, necessarily assume

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in sulf-dcfouco !i threiitoiiiiii;' and vickms attitude toward all
coniers. Thoy wcro regularly fed, first on alternate days, and
then once daily, autl we never found it necessary to maltreat
and beat them to ensure fair beliavior at feeding-time. Indeed
feeding-tinio was the otdy occasion on which rival dogs would
not light, for h)ng experience had taught them it was a losing
game; whichever dog won, both invariably k)st their bidil
througli neutral and wiser parties.

For a time annisenient was afforded us by the discoveiy of a
remarkable double echo, which gave l)ack distinctly the seven
syllables contained in the woi'ds •• taking sea temperatures.''

Tlie excitement consequent on the return, Xovenjber 8tli, of
the last sledging party for tlie winter, with Private Biederbick
frost-l)itten, had not died awav, when two davs later our second
fire occurred. It was the carpenter's tent again, which had been
})itclied a sutHcient distance from tlie house to ensm-e the safety
of the latter. The lire was as usual the outcome of careless-
ness, resulting from an atteni})! to fill a gasoline-lamp without
extinguishing it. Sergeant Elison, who was the careless man,
paid dearly for his imprudence, as the flaming oil burned
severely his hands and face, destroying his beard, eye-brows,
and a part of his liair, fortunately without serious after-effects.
The temperature was 32" below zero (—35.0° C.) at the time, but
the fire organization was promptly on hand, and did good service
with the extinguishers. No delay or confusion was experienced
by the men in taking the places or i)erforniing the duties as-
signed them by the written instructions, and good order was
marked. After the extinguishers were emptied, the rcniaimU'r
of the fire was smothered by blankets. The tent was not de-
stroyed, and but few things of importance were damaged.
Fortimately the party engaged in putting out the fire escaped

any serious frost-bites, although the cold was intense.
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TIIKEE YEAKS OF AKCTIC SEUVICE.

In connection with tlio question of tire, I made it a point daily
to examine the wuuilwoik in the iiuniediato vicinity of tlio
chinnieys, which were so arranj^ed as to render the chance of a
lire withont immediate detection almost impossihle. Sudi wood-
work as was exposed to the lieat from tlie cliimneys was in-
variably left bare, so that its condition mii;ht be readily seen,
which wonld not have been possible had it been covered by tin
or sheet-iron.

Sergeant Brainard's jonrnal of November 11th indicated the
opinion of the men as to snitablo clothing for ordinary use. JIo
says; "(Considerable attention is being given by the men to
the manufacture of blaidcetclothing; it is considered superior
to the ordinary issue if stable-frocks and overalls (thin duck)
are worn over to prevent snow from adhering to the rough,
M'oolly surface."'

The expei'iences of the expedition continued the opinion of
Xares, Payer, Nordenskiold, and many others, that for ordi-
nary use, lirst-class woollen imder-garments, with heavy, woollen
clothing, are all that is essential in Arctic service.

The monotony of Arctic life conunenced about that time.
.Different methods to alleviate its discomforts and depressions
were broached, none of which were particularly successful, as,
indeed, none can be. A tri-weekly school was connnenced by
me during the month, which was kept up through the entire
winter with marked benelit to the men attending. In this
work Lieutenant Lockwood relieved me by his cheerful and
considerate assistance. Arithmetic, grannnar, geograjjliy, and
meteorology were taught. For a time Dr. I'avy instructed
two men in French. The educational qualifications of the men
were very good, and there was but one of the party on its
original formation who was unable to write, and he acquired
that attainment during our stay at Conger.

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oru I'lllST DAIIK DAYS.

103

Lieutciiiuit L(JcIv\vo(xl, with llio assistuiice of Sergeant JJice
and Private lieiiry, edited a Henii-inuntlily newspaper, the
,1 1'dic Jfoo/i. Its pi'uspeettiiii, issued on the 14th, excited curios-
ity and interest until it appeared on tlio ii4th. It lived, how-
ever, only lor two months, dying for lack of interest, although
it served its temporary i)urpose of amusement and diversion.

It was not until Xovendicr 14th that the temperature of
freezing mercury (—38.3° C.) was noted, and the day following
a number of oils and other substances were exposed in a tem-
perature of —2.")'' (—31.7° C.) for the purpose of noting the
otfect of low temperatures upon them. At a temperature of — 30°
( — 34° C), tincture of hyoscyamus and oil of peppermint were
frozen solid. Coal-oil became of the consistency of syrup at
— 2."i" ( — 31.7° C), and commenced to show signs of crystalliza-
tion in i)laces at —37.4'' ( — 38.6° C). New England rum,
ninety per cent, jiroof, ;it —41.7° (—40.9° C.) showed a thin
coating of slush, and at —47.4' ( — 44.1° C.)a small amount like
syrnp remained in the bottom of the vessel, the balance resem-
bling mixed snow and water. At —49.7° ( — 45.4° C.) the ves-
sel could be inverted without any liquor escaping.

Xovember 17th, the temperature being at —30' ( — 34.4° C),
the construction of the pendulum piers, which has been else-
where described, was commenced by ns. It was a tedious and
trying, thongh successful jol) of masonry. A few days later
oin- little dog (^'ypsy, the brightest and most cunning dog of our
teams, lost her last pnppy through another mother springing at
and killing it. <'yp\V appeared to have maternal instincts to a
marked degree, and sorrowed long for her lost litter. For a con-
siderable time after this she improved every opportunity, in the
absence of their own mothers, to suckle the young in other litters.

Although we were separated so far from our country, yet we
could not fail to bear in mind the festivals which we knev/

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WLMH' being celebrated !)>• our coimtrvmen. Novoiiibci' 2ttli
was duly appointed in orders as a ihiy of thanksgiving and
praise. In the morning of tinit day, I read to the party, as ap-
propriate tor the oeeasioii, \\\v luntb selection of I'salms.

Later eanie a series of races and friendly contests for a few
snnill jirizes, which were olTered by me to incite general par-
ticijiation. There was scarcely a mend)er of the ])arty who did
not particijiate actively as judge, manager, or ci>ntestant.

The snow-shoe race of four hundred yards was won by
Sergeant IJrainard, pressed liard by Kalston and (iardiner.
Latev the Kskinio contested with teams of seven dogs each in a
race to Dutch Ishunl and return. The half-breed Fredei'ik was
iirst in, being, as the nii-n said, too wily and cunning for the
simple-hearted native .lens to contend with. A foot-raco of one
Inmdred yards resulted in a dead heat between three, which
was eventually won by Kllis. In the afternoon ritle-sliooting
was tried at a distance of twenty-five yards ; a candle set up in
a box being the bull's eye. Tins was won by Trivate Henry,
with dens and Cross tied, which eventually resulted in the
Eskimo winning. '

^vt different times durinir the dav a few auroral streamers of
varving briiiiitness shot nn and vanished, as if to look on our
unaccustomed sports. These niysteritnis and niicai'thly visitors
from the far s(»uth had that day to me a weird and spectral
aspect, which sadly belied tlicir name of "merry dancers." The
accompanying magnetic disturbances seriously interfered with
the pleasure of oiu' observer, wlio was obliged to (juit the group
of pleasure-seekers to watch for several hours in the cold mag-
netic observatory the vibrating needle which swung uneasily to
and fro. The day passed quickly and pleasantly, and the un-
usual amount of out-of-doors exercise gave all a sharp appetite
for the excellent meal which followed.

orK FIItsT DAUK \h\Y^.

inn

The (liiiiior wan tlio Kiuno I'di- tlii; men and utRcerf', except
tliat a small allowaiico (•!' Saiiteriie I'rom my ju'lvato supjily
^i'aiiiished tlio otHeers' table. Oy.stei'-Bonp, saliiiuii, ham, eider-
ducks, devilled crab, lobstor-salad, iiK])araj^ns, ij;reeii corn, several
kinds of cake and pio, ice-cream, dates, tit^s, and nuts com-
piiried the vu im. In addition to a small (jnantity of ])uncli at
noon, a moderate amount of rum was iiiven to the men in tlio
eveniujj;, which contributed much to the merriment of the day.

On the 27th, at a temiieratiu'c of — ;5r)° (—37.2° C\\ Sergeant
Cross froze his right ear while absi-nt about two hours at exer-
cise. This was tlie oidy occasion of any such accident during
our regular winter exercise, and if pi'obalily resulted from a lack
of care, although the physi(pi(' of this man was such, from his
liabits and services, as to mark liim as the individual of the
party least calculated to endure hardships and exposure.

About live hundred pounds of musk-mcat and birds com-
prised the fresh meat consumed during N'o\ ember ; an allowance
of about twelve oimccs daily, which during Dccendjcr was in-
creased to nearly a pound.

The decrease of coal burnt during NovcMubcr was over half
a ton as against October; a marked gaiji when considering
the greater cold of the latter month, which resulted from the
change of stoves in the mcirs (piartcrs and less work in the car-
jiciitcr's tent. Tbc; December cold <lcmand(.'d more fuel, and
the amount burned ainoimteil to eight and a halt' tons.

The mean temperature for the month of Xovemljer, —21.53°
( — 31.4-1° C), is the lowest recorded by any Arctic expedition,
being over two degrees colder than Xovembcr. ISoo, experi-
enced by Kane at Van Rensselaer Harbor. The highest tem-
perature of the month was 3^ below zero ( — lt>.-f° (1), and the
lowest 40° below (-43.3° C).

The gt ;i''ral health of the party dm'iug this lime was ex-

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TIIKKE YKAUS OF AIJCTIC SKIIVICK.

cellent. Private Long, while in tlie coulv-liouso, had paid feuch
close attention to his duties that his health sntTored somewhat,
and necessitated his relief about the middle of October, but he
soon regained his usual rol)ust condition.

The next patient was the result of the oidy serious accident
which occurred during the stay of the party at Conger. Sergeant
(rardiner, on the last day of Xovember, broke his left leg by fall-
ing in the pathway while making a tidal observation. The slope
to the tide-gauge was a steep one, and in the dim light of his
lantern and the rough condition of the ice he made a misstep,
which resulted S(j unfortunately. Every attention was given to
him. Steward IJiederbick being particularly devoted in his duties
as nurse. Sergeant Gardiner's general health remained good
despite his enforced confinement for a couple of months, during
which the bone united closely but slowly.

December opened with evidences that the winter solstice was
approaching, for the twilight arch at tkiou was exceedingly tine,
though it still afforded an extremely feeble light, which was
sutlicient to enable occasional journeys to 1)0 made to the sunnnit
of J>ellot Island and to Cairn Hill, in order to read the meteor-
ological instruments* there exposed.

On the 1st Sergeants Hrainard and Tlalston visited the sinn-
mit of ^[ount Campbell on Hellot Lsland for that puri)0sc. They
were surprised to lind the temperature on the summit, at an
elevation of al)out twenty-one hundred feet, — S° ( — 22.2° C),
while that at the station was —27.7° ( — 83.1" C.). A minimum
of —28° (—38.9° C.) had occurred upon the uiountain since
October 3lst, against one of — 4i».S' ( — 4ti.4' C.) at the station.

Thermometric tests wen* made on December 2d and other
days, which were based on the assumption that pure mercury
freezes at —37.!)'' ( — 38. S° C). From that standard om- mer-
cm-ial tnermometers (from (Jreen, X. Y.) rarely showed errors

OUR FIRST DARK DAYS.

167

as great as 1" (O.G° C), but the spirit tliermometers read from
2° (1.1° C.) to 4° (2.2° C.) too low. Some instruments showed
such great errors (reading invariably too low) that we were un-
able to use them, as from selected thermometers readings of
—80° (-62.2° C.) or lower could have been made.

It seems doubtful if temperatures from alcohol thermometers
can be depended on below —GO'' ( — 51.1° C), as at that tempera-
ture the standard alcohol from the United States Medical
Department, reduced by addition of one-third as much water,
showed signs of viscosity, having perceptibly thickened.

Oji December 5th a lunar eclipse occurred, which was first
noted by Lieutenant Kislingbury and Sergeant Jewell. It had
unfortunately escaped the notice of our astronomer, and its
ending was but unsatisfactorily noted by him, owing to the
presence of clouds at that time. As the eclipse was ending,
the tleeey clouds which partly concealed the moon, and sur-
rounded it for a considerable time, formed around it to a space
of about 8° a most beautiful coromi. The large and marked
yellow circle which immediately surrounded the moon changed
imperce})tibly into blue, to be followed again by yellow, and
that by red.

A remarkable lunai' halo occurred the same day ; two almost
complete ciix-les of 22° and 4G° radius, with two contact arches,
both showing clearly prismatic colors. The second contact arch
■was remarkable in extending beyond the zenith, forming nearly
a complete circle.

Aliout the 10th of December was the critical period of our
life at Conger, as a number of the men gave indications of being
mentally affected by the continual darkness. Their appetites
for a time failed, and many signs of gloom, irritation, and de-
pression were displayed. The Eskimo, however, were more
seriously affected than any of the men. These symptoms of

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TIIUKK YEA15S OF AltCTIC SERVICE.

restlessness aiul uneasiness were noted by ine as early as the
Stli, and ever}- effort was made by personal intercourse to re-
store these Greenlanders to a cheerful mental condition.

On the 13th Jens Edward disappeared, leaving the station in
early inornini:;, without eating his breakfast or even taking lii.s
bcal-skin mittens. The morning was a dark, gloomy one, with
threatening aspect, which soon manifested itself in a fall of
snow. To ensure striking the right trail, Sergeant Brainard was
sent dii'cctly north of the station for nearly a half mile, and
Sergeant Rice to the south, both parties being provided with
lanterns, which would enable them to describe a lialf-mile circle
around the station to determine positively the direction taken
by the Eskimo. Ills tracks were fouiul with some difficulty
southward toward Dutch Island and liobcson Channel. Ser-
geants Drainard and liice, with I'rivate Whisler, pursued liim,
followed later by Dr. Pavy and a sledge, lie was overtaken
near Cape Murchison travelling i-apidly northward, but returned
to the station without objection, and in time recovered his spirits.
No cause for his action in this respect could be ascertained other
than his intense desire to return to his home, or place himself in
some situation in which, according to the superstitions of Green-
land, he could have supernatural knowledge of it.

Ill the pursuit Sergeant liice, in one of his many falls in
the rough ice foot of Ilobeson Channel, seriously injured his
shoulder. Jle was sent back by Dr. I'avy in charge of Private
Whisler. The latter, in bis extreme zeal to be of assistance, had
left the station without orders, and was far too thinly clad for
such exposure. The weather was moderately wariri (—2!)° F.,
— 33.!»'' C'.), but the ove .--exertion, followed by a reaction, so
affected him physically and mentally that he would liave
perished from cold had it not been for Sergeant llice's judicious
and persistent efforts in his behalf. The success of his action

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OUK FIRST DARK DAYS.

169

was uU the more creditable and surprising, as Sergeant Rice's
right arm was entirely useless from his fall.

Sergeant Rice succeeded in •'cttiiiif AVhisler within about a
mile and a half of the station, when the returning dog-sledge
fortunately reached them, and he was soon brought to the
station. The exposure affected Private Whisler's mental facul-
ties in much the same maimer as was vividlv described bv Kane
in the experiences of his party, when several men eventually
perished. It was several hours after his return to the station
before Wliisler was entirely in his right nund. Eskimo Chris-
tiansen, a few days later, seemed to have the same intention of
deserting as Jens, but fortunately was dissuaded.

These affairs gave me great uneasiness until the i-eturning
sun and the commencement of spring work engaged the atten-
tion of the Eskimo, and rendered them more cheerful and con-
tented. In connection with the action of these men, it should
be said that the members of the expedition had always treated
the Eskimo in the kindest and most considerate maimer, care-
fully avoiding any rough pleasantries with or allusions to them.
Inspector Smith had kindly advised mo on this subject before
leaving LTpernivik, informing me of the facility with which
the Eskimo, not well ae(iuainted with the English tongue, mis-
understood acts and allusions. The generally received opinion
us to the extraordinary appetites of the Eskh.io was not borne
out by the actions of our two natives. The excellent, hearty
appetites which they had on joining wore never excessive, and
were soon ecpialled by those of our own men. As to seal-
blubber, they would not even taste it at Fort Conger, and later,
during the retreat, ate it sparingly and with I'eluctance.

On December lOth our mean temperature for the day was for
the "first time lower than -40^ (-40° C), being -40.9° (-40.5''
C'.) corrected. Two days later my journal says : "It is reinarka-

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170

TIIUEE YEARS OF AKCTIC SEUVICE.

ble how onr little puppies, that are but six weeks old, entluro
the cold. They rush out from the lean-to into the open air at a
temperature of -40° (-40° C.) and -45^ (-42.8° C), in order
to obtain bits from the slop-bucket, and to-night two or three
rumiing into the water as it was thrown out, and remaining
quiet for a mimite, were actually frozen to the spot, and had to
be cut out with a hatchet. They appear none the worse for
their misadventure."

The winter solstice, although marking our shoi'test dav tech-
nically, was by no means the darkest. For a portion of Jie day
the air was filled with falling spicuhe of frost, whicl were not
sufficient to prevent a view of the stars. The outlines of Proteus
Point, four-tifths of a mile distant, could bo seen. A number
of the party visited Dutch Island, among whom was Sergeant
I'rainard, who, on attaining his twenty-fifth birthday, was, in ac-
cordance with the general practice, relieved from duty. The dark-
est day of the winter, owing to the thick mist and fog, proved
to be December 12th, on which the want of light and other
imfavorable conditions did not prevent Lieutenant Kislingbury
and others from taking their daily walk toward Dutch Island.

]\Iy journal of December 21st says: "We have long looked
forward to the coming of this day, and its advent is a source of
blessing and relief to me. It removes all fear that the winter
may not pass safely and comfortably, and so lightens my heart
and mind most materially. The blessings of contimial health
and exemption from serious accidents, except in Ctardiner's case,
should cause feelings of gratitude to s{)ring up in our hearts
toward that Divine Providence which has us all in Ills keeping.
The sun to-night turns northward in its com'se, and in a few
days darkness will give place to returning light, which, as with
many other blessings, has never been fully appreciated until it
took flight."

CllAPTEIl XV.

CHRISTMAS AND THE NP:\V YEAR.

T T appeai'cd surprising that the mere fact of the sim liaving
-■- coinineiiced its northward journey should have such a
niar]ced effect upon the spirits of the men as was visible in the
days immediately following the winter solstice. It was the most
strikuig illustration of the many instances in connection with our
Arctic experiences as to the powerful influence exercised over
the physical conditions of the body by the existing mental con-
ditions.

The solstice past, the attention of the expedition was drawn
to other considerations incident to the season, the most impor-
tant of which were the preparations for the proper celebration of
the Christmas holidays. It was fortunate that the preparations for
Christmas entailed certain work and physical exertion on the })art
of some of the party, as Sergeant Brainard, who had systemati-
cally kept the men at useful labor, completed the last steady out-
door work on the 22d, when the oflicers' (piarters were completely
banked up with snow. This lab(M-, with the ordinary routine,
sufficed to keep the men from brooding too much over the con-
trasted conditions as to the coming and past Christmases, and
3'et kept their minds healthfully on the pleasures of the holidays.

in order that the quarters should be especially neat and tidy
for the coming celebration, they were overhauled a day or two
in advance, and the floor was thoroughly washed and scraped.

The fact of washing out our (piarters may seem an ordinary

172

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

circiunstancc to a person unacquainted with the peculiar condi-
tions of Arctic life, but it was perhaps an uni(pie experience
that tlie sleeping-(piarterrt of an Arctic party were tlioroughly
washed and scoured in nTKlwinter. Wliatever water is brought
into the quarters in this manner must necessarily be taken up by
the air and deposited elsewheie in the shape of hoar-frost. The
fact that water continuously fi-oze on the floor in all our rooms
necessitated scraping the tloor after washing it. This precau-
tion, with a slight increase in the fires, succeeded in giving us
thoroughly clean quarters for our Christinas exercises, without
any inconvenience or suffering following.

The preparation of the Christmas diimer was commenced
several days in advance, as from its extensive character nnich
extra labor was entailed upon Frederick, who was the regular
cook. Unfortunately he burned his arm quite badly on the
2iid, but, despite his condition, re(piested that he be permitted
to complete his tour of duty, hong, who was considered the
especial cook of the party, with his customary cheerfulness,
assisted Frederick in the preparation of this important meal.

The capacity of our excellent cooking-range, with its large
ovens and hot-water boilers, was thoroughly tested on Christmas
l^ay. AVhen Frederick, the cook, had planned out a place for
cooking the many dishes for the great dinner, he was thrown
into a state of dismay on learning that plum-pudding had been
added to the list. He came to me, saying that he did not see
how he could cook this dish, as his range was taxed to its ut-
most; and he was much relieved to learn thiit Mrs. Greely had
sent a case of pudding as a Christmas present for the expedition.

The quarters thoroughly cleaned, Sergeants Brainard and
Rice took upon themselves the task of elaborately decorating
the quarters with such Hags, guidons, and other articles as could
be used in draping or ornamenting. I refrained from visiting

CIIUISTMAS AND THE NEW YEAR.

173

the men's room, until on Christmas evo I was notified that my
presence \va>i desired, and on enteriiij:; I was greatly delighted
with the clianged appearance of the general quarters. The
room, low-studded and uiipaintcd, had never presented a cheer-
ful aspect, even in our days of sunlight, and during the winter
season the aecunnihition of soot from the soft coal burned in
the quarters had given it an air of gloom and darkness, which
was largely enhanced through the subtle influence of association
by the monotony of the long days passed within it. The room
was now well lighted, and witii its elaborate trinnnings had u
gay and lively appearance not unlike that presented by army
quarters in the far AVest on like occasions.

I made a few I'eniarks suitable to the festival we were to
celebrate and with refoi-ence to our peculiar situation, apart
from and yet a part of the great civilized woild.

I had assigned to Sergeant ilice the grateful task of distribut-
ing the (Christinas gifts, and lie performed his duty with pleas-
ant and well-received remarks belitting each gift and its appropri-
ateness for the recipient. We had neglected to provide ourselves
with a Christmas tree, and our new country afforded not even
the semblance of a shrub, the largest plant — the creeping Arctic
willow — being about a foot long and not over an inch above the
surface of the ground. In consecpience the presents were
spread out on our largest table.

Tlie thoughtful consideration of a few friends and well-
wishers of the expedition, some of whom were personally un-
known to any of us, had resulted in the donation of many
articles both valuable and useful. Every officer and man re-
ceived a package addressed to him personally, and some were
sent for distribution at the discretion of the connnanding officer.
The idea was a most lia])py one, and it would have done the
generous donors much good could they have known the keen

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TiiitKK y?:aus op aijctic seuvick.

pleasure their gifts made in the hearts of the nieii who received
them. A number of the men, wiio liad lived lives marked by
neglect and indifference on the part of the world, were touched
even to tears, although they strove man-like to conceal them.
The commanding officer received a fan — not needed for Arctic
use; and Lieutenant ICislingbury a small dog, which excited
the more annisement when he turned away the ridicule by
calling out, '* O ! Schneider, don't you want to buy a dog?"
I'oor Schneider did not liear the last of it for several days.
The prosperity of the joke lay in the fact that Schneider had
for many weeks devoted Ids spare time and attention to the
successful raising of our Arctic puppies.

These gifts were supi)lemented by a nund)er from the com-
numding oflicer, which were distributed by lot — some of value
and others of an anuisiug character. A plentiful supply of
eggnog, and the removal of the restriction as to the hour of
retiring, made the evening a delightful one, and long after the
Sal)bath and Christmas came together the (piarters resounded
to hynnis, chants, carols, and sentimental songs.

Christnuis morning came clear and cold, with a temperature
of freezing mercury, which moderated later in the day. The
calm air, unstirred by wind, made exercise tolerable, and all
sought the harbor-tloe for a long walk, in hopes of a marvellous
appetite.

At 10 A.M. the Psalms for Christmas were read, to which I
added as appropriate the second selection, consisting of the
139th and 14(Jth Psalms. This reading was supplemented by
the singing of a hymn and the do.xology, led off by Lieutenant
Ivislingbury. I remember no service in all our Arctic experi-
ences which so affected and impressed the men, unless it was
that at our first burial in the winter, at Sabine. Our thoughts
and tenderest feelings could not but go out to those wo had left

CIIKISTMAS AND TJIE NEW YKAK

178

Itehiiul, witli doubts and fears as to whether it fared well or ill
with them, never distrusting but their hearts were with us in
our Arc'tie Christnms.

("hristnias falling on Sunday, no anuisements of any kind were
attempted, but everyone waited with interest and a certain
impatience for the dinner, wliich was as elaborate as our stores
would permit.

ThG 7neiu(. for the dinner was as follows: Mock-turtlo soup,
salmon, fricasseed guillemot, spiced musk-ox tongue, crab-salad,
I'oast beef, cider-ducks, tenderloin of nnisk-ox, potatoes, aspara-
gus, green corn, green peas, cocoamit-pie, jelly-cake, plum-pud-
ding with wine-sauce, several kinds of ice-cream, grapes, cherries,
pineapples, dates, figs, nuts, candies, coffee, chocolate. Kgg-
nog was served to the party in moderate (pumtities, and an
extra allowance of rum was also issued in celebration of the day.

The candies, plum-pudding and cigars were the most ap-
preciated, not only for the satisfaction they afforded the taste,
but as beiui; gifts from thoui^htful friends. The cii^ars came
fiom an army lady who know the weakness of the rank and
file for the consoling weed, and the candies were from a leading
confectioner of New York City.

On the 2(5th the men were busy in the preparation for a
variety show, which was set for that evening, as (,'hristmas had
fallen on Sunday. The Lime-Juice Club announced that they
would perform at the Dutch Island Opera House for one night
only, and that dog-chariots could be ordered at 10 p.m. The
admission fee was in tobacco, the current coin of Grinnell Land.

The first act was a representation of an Indian council, which
ended with a war-dance. Kine of the party participated in
this scene, which was admirably rendered. ]\[ost of the actors
bad served in the far West, and some had spent months con-
tinuously in Indian camps, and so were thoroughly familiar

17<5

'J'lIltKK VKVKS OK Allelic SIlIINrCK.

I ■ I

witli tlio pnrts tlicy purtrayed. I doubt very iiiucli if :i uwvo
rcalistii! represoiitatioii of tlio wihl if(l-iii;iii was ovor prnKontctl
ill till! Arctic ("irclc, if flhowhcrc.

A roiiialo iiiipersuiiatioii followed, hy ScliiR'ider, which aftordcd
aniiisiMiiciit for the party, hut particularly so to tho KHkimo.
Sclitu'idcr hail provided himself at tin; ( Jreeiiland ports with the
entire custuiiie of the Kskiiiio helle, and hein<^ a Kinall man, was
able to Kqueezoliiinself into tho j^arnients. As he appeared on
the scene with liis elaborate make-up and closely-shaven face,
one was struck by tlio excellent resemblance to the Innuit belles
whom we liad seen in lower latitudes. In his ainoirf, or woman's
hood, he bi,>Ui;lit the larj^est of his char<^es, one of the (Jrinnell
Laml puppies, who was nearly frij;-htened to death by the ap-
plause which greeted liis first advent into polite society. Iv\-
cellent cornier songs by Henry were followed by ecpially amusing
imitations of a well-known military character by Connell.

Tho entire party were prepared for a delightful and interesting
literary treat from Sergeant tiewell, who announced that he
would give a select reading, it proved to be a well-received
jest, which ended tlio entertainment for the evening. .leweli
entered, and after elaborately arranging and oiiening a largo
volume, carefully hung up an aneroid barometer and made a
special reading of it for the meteorological information of the
party.

Tho full light of the moon came to us <agaiu on tho 27th,
affording a clear and excellent view of the surrounding country,
wliicli had been hidden from us for a long time by the intense
darkness of the moonless midwinter. We congratulated our-
selves that this luminary would remain witli ns until the re-
flected rays of the sun would give us again some faint light at
midday.

On December 30th my journal says: "I was glad to hear

CHRISTMAS AM) TIIK NEW YKaU.

177

a very warm and loiifj; dcbato between tlio party an to the rel-
ative nieritrt of the cavalry and infantry ariuK of the service.
This lias been the favorite topic among the men, but the de-
fpond(!nt humor of the dark days has prevented its recent dis-
cussion. The recommencement of these debates proclaims the
return of their former good spirits to some of the party." The
character of these debates may be imagined Irom a pertinent
Btatement of Sergeant Urainard, who said that " no argument
of any tojjic of a theoretical character appears to be settled
until the owner of the strongest pair of lungs in the expedition
is discovered."

December olst, "The nu)nth appears to be ending with very
low temperatures. Yesterday and to-day the mercury has been
fiozen the greater part of the time.''

The maximum for December was — lo^ (—23.8° C.) on the
2d, and the minimum -52.2' (-40.7' C.) on the 2-ith. The
mean of —I52.0F ( — 35.6° ('.) has rarely been exceeded in De-
cember. The thickness of the new ice was found to be thirty-
four inches, an inci'ease of but one inch during the month.

The last day of the year came, and, as at Christujas, the re-
Btrictions ix'garding the hour for retirement were set aside, and
the party determined to watch the (Jld Year out and the New
"^'ear in. The watch was enlivened by songs until midnight,
being followed afterward by dancing aiul by a concert from a
well-organized calthumpian band, in which the tinware of the
expedition played an important jiart.

The spirits of the party were by ".lo means dampened through
an extra allowance of alcoholic li([Uors. A scrub-race was got
lip between ]>ie(lerbick and Schneider to Dutch Island and re-
turn, a distance of nearly four miles, in which a small cpiantity
of rum was the hard-earned pi'ize. The men kept up their

Bongs and anmsements until three o'clock in the morning.
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TIIKEE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

Later in the day Sergeants Jewell and Lynn vi Hed Mount
Campbell to read the in^tnnnents, hut were luisuccessful in
finding them, having taken the wrong ravine on the it^land. An
incident in connection with their return evidenced the great
ivadiness with which, under certain conditions, sounds are heanl
in Arctic temperatures. I went out oi. the cpiarters to listen if
I could hear them coming, and from the sound of their voices
judged them to he within a short half-mile of the house. Al-
though my extra clothing was only a thin jersey and a light pair
of mittens, I concluded I would go out and meet them, the tem-
perature standing at — 2S° (— ou.3° C). To my surprise, how-
ever, T walked nearly two-thirds of the way to l>ellot Jslaiul
(jefore meeting them, and learned on incpiiry that they must
have been on tlu; hill overlooking round Point, and at least
two miles fi-oni the h(.)use when I first heard them.

Of the day my journal says : " Our New Year opens well. It
has been a warm day, fro-n -Id" (-23.3° C.) to -30° (-34.1°
C), with a touch of wind not at all comfortable. I delayed the
service an hour this morning to give the revellers of last night
an opportunity for needed rest. It gave me great pleasure to
see how bright ami cluorv the men were last evenini;. Tlieir
good spirits, (juiot contentment, and increased appetites ensure
us against sciu'vy this p. esent season. Our unbroken numbers,
excellent health, undiminished courage and strength ai'e sub-
jects of deep thankfulness."' S(i, in health, good-will and
comfort l)eii'an uur ^^'ew Year in (Jrinnell Land.

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CHAPTER XVI.

W 1 N T ]•: R EVENTS.

/^UTI Christmas holidays over, matters reverted to the usual
^^^ routine, and anytliing novel or unusual was recognized as
a relief. Sergeants Hrainard and Itice on January 3d repeated
the trip of the 1st, succeeded in finding the instruments on
]\rount Campbell, and made the following report : " The ex-
]n.sed thermometer read, at 4 i'.m., -20° (-28.'J^ C), being 10°
(.■).0° C.) warmer than ;it the station ; maximum temperature
since Decend)er 1st, -IS.;")*-' (—25.3° C.) ; miiiinmm, —14.8°
(-42.7° C), being respectively 3.5° (1.9° C.) lower and 10.4°
(5.8" C.) higher than here."

Such discrepancies always appeared in connection with these
(■(iiuparativo readings. Jsares similarly reported temperatures
(111 Lookout Hill at I'loeberg Beach, four Imndred and eighty
it'ut high, as being on one occasion C° (3.3° C), and on
another 11" (^(i.l" (".), warmer than at the ship. Dr. Moss
at the same place found the temperature some 3° (1.7° C.)
wurmer at the masthead than on the lloe. The cause el' such
(liiferences seems readily ex])lained by assuming it to l)e ladi-
ation which induces the extreme temperatures of (Irinnell hand,
and as the low temperatures are always in calm weather, the
dense cold air has time to seek the lower levels.

If the early days of .lanuary came to us with faint light, they
brought sharp cold. The mean temi)erature fell in two days
li>° (10.0° C), fi-om -31.2^ (;-35.1° C.) the 7th to -50.3°

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TIIKEK YEAIIS OV ARCTIC 8KUVICE.

(—45.7° C.) on the 9tli, and the day following the mininnua
touched -5S.2^ (-50.1° C).

Everything being in readine.-Js, wo connnenced our pendulum
observations on January (!th. During thi.s work regular tiniii
ob.servations were necessary twice tlaily, autl the severe cold
made the work of the most trying character to our astronomer,
ISergeant Israel. lie made the observation,; on the 14th, in
temperatures varying from —54° (—47.8° i'.) to —50° (— 4S.8°
C). A few days later, being exposed for a long time to a
temperature of —48° ( — 44.4° C.) in the open observatory, he
froze superficially one of his feet. Apart from this the pen-
dulum experiments, though tedious, and involving exposure and
sufferiu"', were most fortunatelv aut^ successfullv comluctcd.

In the meantime the entire quarters had been made a.-; com-
fortable as was possible. The house had been well banked up
with both earth and snow, and all cracks in the men's (juarters
had been ])apered over so that no draughts were possible. TIio
men had constructed shelves over their bunks, and had arranged
curtains, which insured a certain pi'ivacy whenever they sought
it. In tlie olHcers'' room such shelves and conveniences had
ijecn erected for each one as were desired. The surgeon had
his l)ooks, instruments, and such medicines as he wished, ou
shelves constructed in his corner.

Mv own (Idiiiain of eight bv einht was in general thrown into
the main I'liuni, but heavy curtains were so arranged that at
night, or whenever I de.-ii'i'd jti'ivacy, tlicy cduid be (.li'awn so
as to cut {){]' my corner from \ic\v. Such little personal
trappings as 1 had taken with me were ari'anged to the best
advantage. On shelves near me were placed my jieisonal
books and the excellent Arctic lib-uy we were favored with.
To save sj)ace, my buidc was built mi the top of an aninnmi-
tion-chest, in which the greater part of my clothing was packed.

WINTER EVENTS.

181

A small desk, a I'ockiiig-cliair, and sonic private cai'petiii<i!; added
iiuich to my comfort us 1 daily applied myself to mental work.
The ink froze nightly at my head, and the water si)ille<l on
carpet or floor at all times turned to ice, hut as a compensation
the thermometer hy day — if day there be withont the sun —
rose to 00° (38° C.) around my head. Despite these and other
drawbacks, it was a comfortable nook to me in that time, and
it will always abide in my mind with ])lcasure, as a place
where I did good work myself and planned better for others.

The 10th of January was a day we long remembered at
Conger. INIy journal says : " We have had to-ilay the most
violent storm I have ever experienced, except a hurricane on the
sunnnit of Mount ^V^ishington.'' The barometer commenced
falling .05 inch hourly at 7 a.m., with calm, cloudy weather. I
watched the barometer hourly, the fall increasing nntil it
reached .10 inch an hour at 11 a.m., with a southwest wind of
eighteen miles. Observations were then made every fifteen
minutes. An hour later the barometer had fallen another tenth
of an inch, and the wind, which had suddenly changed to the
northeast, attained a velocity of over tifty miles an hour. The
air was so full of snow that I ordered the temperature observa-
tion to be made by two strong men together, and the tide read-
ing by two others. It was with ditHculty that they succeeded
in reaching the instruments. It took six of the best men with
ropes to make the 1 j'.m. readings, when the wind was blowiniJt«!t««^
steadily at fifty-two miles from the northeast, in which ipnirter
it renuiincd. At 2 p.m. the barometer still fell with the same
rapidity, and the wind had attained a velocity of sixty-two miles.
It was ([uite impossible to (juit the house, and a thermometer
was read just outside the southwest door. The wind was then
blowing a hurricane, the air full of snow, and the house shook
and creaked in an alarming and ominous manner. Every instant

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THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

I expected that the roof would be twisted or torn off, and tho
whole building blown into the open harbor. Such a catastrophe
would liavc left us in desperate straits, and would ])robably have
proved fatal to some of the party. The violence of the wind
for over an hour kept us in a state of suspense as to what would
be our fate.

The highest registered wind was at 2.1.") J'.m., northeast, sixty-
live miles per hour, but about 2.4o i-.m. the wind, wliich had
been blowing steadily, changed into violent gusts, ■which prob-
ably reached eighty or ninety miles an hour. The anemometer-
spindle broke short off, and the cups blew several miles into the
harbor before they cauglit and stopped. At -3 i'.m. the barometer
was at 20.028, a fall of over liulC an inch (.504) in live hours.
The pressure remained nearly steady for three hours longer,
but at + I'.M. the wind had fallen to about forty miles, and ol)-
sei'vations out of doors were aijain renewed with .some dan^-er
and difficulty. If our builditigs had not been well banked up
witli earth and snow, they would have been torn to pieces be-
yond a doubt. In one respect this storm was an extraordinary
one. Payer, in commenting on a statement of Hayes of a stoi'ui
at —27' (—.'32.8^ C), says it is probably a typographical error.
The general ])rinciple that storms do not occur at very low tem-
peratures is sound, and it is erpially obvious that during storms
the temperature rises rapidly and that observers in the field
overrate the velocity of cold, cutting winds. The wind blowing
fifty-two miles an hour in this storm, at a temperature of —13°
(25° C), is probably unparalleled. Other remarkable winds at
low temperatures occurred .lamiary 23, 1882, southeast, thirty-
four miles at —25.2° (-31.8° (I), and March 0, 1882, east,
twenty-one miles at -27.2° (32.0° C).

The day following my journal says : " Two days of stoi-m
and cloud have passed since the noonday twilight has been

WINTElt EVENTS.

183

Been, and now our eyes note a perceptible change. The sonthoru
sky at noon gave us marked assurunces of the returning .sun.
Fine bands of cirrus clouds on the h;outhern horizon were finely
colored, the dark-crimson streaks of warm color being overlaid
with daffodil-yellows, that shaded gradually into the ])earl-
grays. Though there has been during the winter a moderate
amount of snow, considering the low temperature, yet the hill-
tops are now quite bare anil show less covering than in (October.
Yesterday's storm has stripped every exposed place of its usual
snow, to pack it in dense, hard drifts in the hollows of the
ground and the cracks and other interstices of the harbor-ice,
I'or tlie first time during our experiences, it would now be pos-
sible to cut blocks of snow and build a snow-house. The snow
in these low temperatures has none of the soft, fleecy appear-
ance seen in lower latitudes. Each Hake, hard and separate as
an atom of sand, only unites to its neighbo." under stress of force
and pressure. It is the snow of our western prairies, only in a
more aggravated form, which there, filling a railway cutting,
resists so successfully all efforts of trains or snow-ploughs to
force a passage."

In nearly a month prior to the storm, only two faint displays
of aurora were noted, but in the week follo\^•ing it occurred on
four days. In the display of January lUth there was a beauti-
ful auroral arch from horizon to horizon in the magnetic mei'id-
ian, during the presence of which the needle was greatly
disturbed, swinging repeatedly off the scale. The aurora of
Jamiary '21st was wonderful beyond description, and 1 have no
words in which to convey any adequate idea of the b(>auty and
splendor of the scene. It was a continuous change from arch
to streamers, from streamers to patches and ribbons, and back
again to arches, which covered the entire licavons for part fif
the time. It lasted for about tweuty-two hours, during which

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TIlltKK YKAltS OF AKCTIC SEKA'ICE.

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;it IK) iMoment was tlio phenoiueiia otiier than vivid iviid reinai'k-
able. At ono time tlioru were tliroo perfect arclics, wliicli
spanned tlie southwestern sky from liorizon to liorizon. Tlio
most striking and exact simile, ])crliaps, would be to liken it to
a contlagration of surrounding forests as seen at night from
a cleared or open space in their centre. During the dis-
play Sergeant Rice exposed a sensitive dry photographic plate
toward the auroi'a without any effect, but the experiment was
a doubtful one from the shifting of the light. In general, the
aurora wj's (piite colorless, though occasionally red tints were
reported. Despite the remarkable duration and extent of tlie
aurora, the magnet was but slightly disturbed. J)uring the dis-
]ilay the new moon ajii)eared, a narrow crescent which, strange
to say, was exactly the color of blood.

Sir (Jeorgo !Nares remarks that, " contrary to the ]iopular be-
lief, the aurora gives us no appreciable light." Jn our experi-
ence the light was considerable on several occasions, aiul in this
case I saw my shadow cast, at a time when the brilliant dis|)lay
was in one quarter of the heavens oidy. Trondiolt says on this
point : " The very greatest amount of light which the aurora
borealis emitted, or which, in any case, I was able to ascertain
during m}' entire sojourn in Laj^land, nuiy be compared to that
of the moon two days and a half after full, when 2.")'' above the
liorizon and the sky is clear."

On the li.'Ul, print, such as is nsed for leadeis, could be read
with some ditficulty at noon. This test, however, M'as not a
satisfactory one, owing partly to the ])resence of the moon, but
more to the remarkably vai'ying capacity of eyes for this work.
A brilliant meteor was observed in the north about 7. -'55 a.m.,
which burst into fragments, all colorless except one, which was a
brilliant red. Xo detonation was hoard.

On January 2'Jth Lieutenant Kislingbury gave us much

WINTKll EVENTS.

185

aiixiety by ii vif-it to ("jipe Murchison, during wliicli lie was ub-
Kont fur over weven hours, in tenipeniture ranging from —45°
(-42.8° ('.) to -:.4" (-47.8° C). Owing to a previous alarm
on accomit of Lieutenant Kislingbury, I had requested him to
note the time of his departure, and the intended direction of his
travel, when leaving the house, so as to insure his being found
in case of any accident. Alxnit 4 p.m. Dr. I'avy entered the
station considerably excited, saying he had been to Water-com-so
IJay following the tracks of Lieutenant Kislingbury, who had
evidently gone to Cape Murchison, and that, as a light breeze
was blowing in the outer harbor, he thought the journey dan-
gerous. Lieutenant Kislingbury's record stated that he had left
at 10.30 .\.M. "for Dutch Island and perhaps Distant Cape."
At 5 P.M., as nothing could be seen of him, the dog-team was
harnessed, and a quarter of an hour later Dr. Pavy, with
Sei'geant IJrainard and Eskimo Christiansen, started out. They
met Lieutenant Kislin";burv about two miles from Dutch Island,
suffering somewhat from the trip. He reached the station at 6
P.M. Of course, being warndy clad, he was safe, unless some ac-
cident occurred or a wind sprang up, when he must have neces-
sarily sulfered from the exposure. As no object was gained by
this trip of twenty-five miles in Arctic darkness, T requested
that such a long absence should not be repeated until the retui'ii
of the sun. The road was found to be in excellent condition,
and wolf and fox tracks were observed. It eventually trans-
pired that Lieutenant Kislingbury's nose was frozen during the
trip, caused, as he said, by riding on the sledge after it
reached him.

January 31st : " The presence of a musky piece of beef to-day
gave rise to general discussion as to the causes of this flavor
to our meat. Such pieces are found but occasionally, and the
history of them has been looked into. The weight of evidence

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TIIKKK YKAIJS OF MtCTIC SKUVICK.

favors tlio belief lliat iinmediato (liv8siii<; of the animal obviates
tho dilKciilty." An exuniplo tiio following sniniiier seenifd to
boar out this opinion: An old bull was killed, which, when
runninj;;, was said to have exhaled such an odor of nnisk that it
was ])ereei)til)le at a distance of several hnndred yards. It was
natm-ally supposed, thoiig-h he was innnediately dressed, that
the meat could not be eaten. To .avoid prejudice, I had a (piar-
ter served without the knowledge of any one except Sergeant
IJrainard, and tho meat proved free from taint or musky llav(tr.

Though thcglorv of the sun had gone, with its wealth of color
in halos and sunsets, yet my journal shows that there are othci'
beauties in an Arctic winter than the auroi'us. ()(" the many
beautiful coronas and paraselenu', a lew will illustrate all. A
very beautifid corona, 0' in diameter, was seen the evening (»f
the oUth. It consisted of four coucenti'ic circles around the
moon, tho imier white, the second yellow, th(! third blue, and
the outer red.

On February 1st a luiuir halo of '.ttt^ was I'eported, but it had
disappeared by the time I was able to leave my bed, and 1
found two halos of '22'^' and 4(5^ respectively, which were of
exceptional brilliancy aiul sj^lendor. In the livening of that
day a most remarkable linuir halo was visible, the moon at the
time being about 'J't^ above the horizon. The circles ot' 22"
and 4G' were perfect to the liorizon, and were both tipjted with
contact arches. Six mo:k-moons were present, two (»n eithei-
side of the true nu)on, and two above it, all of which showed
brilliant prismatic colors, very like the clear, distinct colors seen
in rainbows. Spires of light extended from the moon verti-
cally, reaching downward to the horizon and upward to the
outer circle. In addition, a narrow streak of clear, white light
extended from the moon horizontally on both sides completely
around the entire horizon, at an altitude of 25° the same as

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WINTKU KVKiNTS.

Jb7

tlint of the moon itself. At times n, faint moek-moon without
rainbow colors was to be seen W>' distant from the moon, beini^
in the north, while the moon itself was in the east, and a second
faint one under the moon, so that eight mock-moons were visi-
ble at one time. The phenomena, while more marked and of
longer continuance, was aaid to be of the same character as that

Lu'-nr H.ii-i n; r ■• c-

noted in the early morning. The display lasted for over an
liour, the number of mouns vaiyitiu- during tln^ time.

The halo Avas preceded by an aurora, which was unaccom-
panied by magnetic disturbances.

At local noon of February i^d, the thermonioter on the south
side of the tide-houso was read without a lantoni. The sjiirit
thermometer on tlio Hoc, at o.oO v.m. the same day, read cor-
rected — G4.8° (—53.8" C). Regarding extremely low tempera-
tures, I express my opinion that below —00° (51.1^ C.) all

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188

TIIHKK YKARS OF Allf'TIO SKUVICK.

readings from alcohol thoniiometo: < iiiust, Ik; viewed with bus-
picidii uiilesH the alcohol used i-s known positively to he jiurc.
By my ohservations it was idtiiid that thn^o parts jnire alcniuil
to one of water, deposited snhstances the color and consistoney
of lard. At a teniperatnre of -r»0.r (-:>l..r C), fou l«

of alcohol to one of water, assnnicd the consistiMiey of a light
pyrnp, althonnh unchani^ed in color. This would indicate that,
Bay at —SO'-' ur — 1Mi\ pure alcohol niitilit deposit a sediment.

The following interesting experiments were made as to tho
effect of low temperatures on various li(juids: On Fehruary Ud,
alcohol, chloroform, hrandy, glycerine, etiier, nitricr at-id, and
spirits of turpentine, all from standard preparations of tho
T'nited States ^[edical Departtnent, were exposed at a tempera-
ture of — 55°. The hrandy froze solid in less tlian an hour,
and till' nitric acid, heginning to crystallize, formed into a solid
Bubstance resembling lard, although the temperature r( " to
—47". On the 14th of February, in a temperature of ■ "^,

the spirits of turpentine showed a slight solid sediment, \. ..Ao
the main portion of the liquid ai)peared viscous. Muriatic acid
remained undianged. Sid[)huric ether exhibited small crystals
euspended midway in the li(]uid, and a deposit resend)ling
gum camphor partly dissolved. The chloroform .showed small
spiculiv in suspension near the bottom. Concentrated Engli.sh
rum assumed tlu; consistency of a light syrup, but otherwise
remained unchanged.

On the last-named date, medical alcohol and fuel alcohol (tho
latter near proof) were exposed at a temperature of —55° with-
out undergoing change. At the same time three parts of medi-
cal ali;ohol to one of water were exposed in one vessel, and foiu"
parts of alcohol to one of water were exposed in another. In
a few hours, at a steady temperatm-e of —55", tiie first mixture
showed a deposit resembling soft lard in color am', consistency,

WINTKU KVENTS.

189

wlillo tlin latter romaincil imcliaTiijcd to tlio ojc, but had appar-
ently tliic'k(!ii(!(l. Tlio ruUowiug iiioriiiiij;, a toiiiporatiiro of
— (10.4' having boon oxptM-ionced, tho latter lifpiid ha<l visibly
thickeiKMl, altJHtunii no deposit took place. Tho pure aleohol
ronuvined 8eeniin<'lv uiu!han;'(Ml.

Dining this extreme cold weather I observtMl closely our
Eskimo dogs, exj)e('tiiig to see signs of great snfl'ering from
cold among them. Tho only maimer in which a culm cold was
ever seen to affect them was in cau>iiig them at times to lift
fir.st one foot and then another from tiie bare ground as though
it burned them. A tent was erected for them, and later the
surgeon had some snow-huts excavated, but they never entered
the latter, and only sought the shelter of tho tirsi, during severe
wind storms. One occasionally crept into a closed-uj) tent, where
blankets or clothing could bo found.

The favorite slee])ing- place was the freshly strewn ashes, and
many strove fur tho top of the ash-barrel, which afforded room
for but one. Ofti have I seen a <log tempted to leave tho
l)arrel in order to at k a rival, "nly to return with a crestfallen
look to tind his place i^ upied.

Sometimes failing to dislodKo a connmle comfortal)lv en-
sconced on the coveted ban-el, a dog jumped on top of the lirst
conu'r and curled himself up contentedly. The under dog knew
by bitter experience that to (piarrel was to lose his bed, and
renuvined until worn out by the weight of his rival. Others
sought that portion of the ct)al pile which was free from snow.
Unless they had litters, but one ur two of the dogs would ever
sleep under cover, and such as did so were put in Coventry and
liarshly treated by the remainder of the j)ack.

Sergeant (birdiner, nnich to our gratification, returned to duty
early in February, and once again the party of twenty-five were
all for active duty. The broken bone had united slowly.

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but yet much quicker and better tbau tbe surgeon anticipated.
Tlie continuous absence of buuliglit, the lack ot" exercise, and
unvar3'ing monotony of life are all against an invalid in the
Arctic regions, but Viardincr's spirits never failed liini.

Some experiments were made ..t this time regarding the
freezing of sea-water, which, at a temperature of 2S.d° ( — l.T*^
C), was placed in a barrel banked with snow, the temperature
of which was about -40^ (—40" VX ( h\ the day folluwing the
water was examined, and ice was found to have formed exactly
six inches thick on the top, in a mean temperature of — 4S.7^
(—44.8^ C). My journal says: "This result is at variance
with Paver's statement, that he has seen the open sea freeze at
a similar temperature twelve inches in a day." Subsequently
ice formed over the remaining sea-water, from which the cover-
ing of ice had been removed the ]n'evious day, to the thickness
of 5.7 inches in twenty-four hours, at a mean temperature of
-47.8° (-44.r,= C).

February J»d, though not the ctildest day, was that on which
the lowest tem]ierature of the season occurred. The mean tem-
perature M-as — a^.lt" ( — 48. 2" i'.\ with a maximum of —44.1^
(42.3° (\) and a minimum of -(;i>.2° (52.3" C). On tlie liarbor-
iloe a substandai'd, which, undi-r simihir conditions, rea<l with
the thermonie'er in tlie shelter, recorded — O-'i.I" (—52.8"' ('.),
or 0.9" (0.5' C.) below the regular instrument.

The protective iidluence of a snow-lr.it was shown by the fact
tha'' on February 5th, after a mean temperatiir(! below — 5(»°
(—45.0° C.) for live con.secutive day.s the thermometer inside
the tide-house read —17° ( — 27.2 ('.), which was the lowest
touched since a door luul ])een put on tlie now-house.

February (!th my journal says: "The southern sky at local
noon to-day ias filled with colors of the most excpiisite loveli-
•less, a rich, deep red shading into a remarkable purple." l'"eb-

"VVINTEK INVENTS.

191

iiiaiT Gtli Mas the colclo<?t day ; tlie mean temperature being
-53.8° (-47.7° C), although the minimum did not touch -00°
( — oO" C). This unusually cold weather was noted in connec-
tion with the greatest atmo.sphei'ic pressure recorded to that
time. The barometer touched 30.013 during the day. Despite
tlie I'emarkably low temperature, Sergeant Brainard was hunting
lor nearly two hours and saw many haie-tracks.

Jens and Frederik hunted on the following day, seeing hare-
tracks but no game. Onr tirst s]iring animal, a wolf, was seen
by Sergeant liice on the 10th, near Proteus Point. Jens
hunted assicluously, iuit saw no aninuils until the 15th, when lie
succeeded in killing a hare, the lirst game of the season. We
were suri)rised by its weight, which was eleven pounds gross
and six when dressed. Its excellent condition showed that,
despite the severity of the weather, it had found sufiicieiit and
satisfactory food, principally buds of the Rnxifnuja opjMsitifol'ui.
The animal was densely furred, the long hairs being filled in
near the body with a remarkably fine down-like hair. It was
entirely white, except a few black hairs at the very tips of its
eai's.

On the following day Frederik and Jens each shot another
of about the same weight as the first killed. This game was
welcome as a guarantee for the fntnre, but the meat was not
vitallv necessarv, as on Fel)ruarv 17th we had about twenty-
thi'ee hundred pounds of musk-meat and two hundred guille-
mots still on hand at the station, besides two musk-cattlo cached
in AVater-course Pay.

February lOtb, at midday, the southern liorizon showed a
bar of gold resting on the (xreenland hills, above which the sky
was faintly tinged with a Nile-green color, which shaded toward
the clear heavens of the zenith int > a delicate bright blue. Py
contrast the northern horizon, entirely clear of clouds, appeared

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TintKK YKAltS OF ARCTIC SEllVICE.

of a distinctive dark blue, wliieh was alinoet black in its in-
tensity. As the day was so clear, 1 sent Lieutenant J^ockwood
and party to read the instruments on Dellot Island, and busied
niyself in sound experiments at — Gl.l'' ( — ol.T*^ C). Lieu-
tenant Lockwood and men were goiio about five hours, but
escaped any frost-bites, notwithstanding the very low tempera-
ture, lie complained much of the numy falls from lack of
shadows, which prevented them from ti-avelling rapidly, as
without such aid lioUow anil hill are alike to the eye.

The most marked instance of deception from this cause oc-
curred in the experience of Lieutenants llawson and Egerton,
R.X., with a dog-team, when the dogs, unable to detect in-
ecpialities in the ice, ran directly over a precipitous floe and fell
eight feet, the animals evidently thinking the floe to be entirely
level.

At 10 I'.M., February KJth, the mercurial thermometers
thawed out, after having been fro/en continuously for sixteen
days and Ave hours. This is the loTigest time on record during
which mercury has remained frozen. The Alert, in 1870, ex-
perienced a similar spell of cold, during which the mercury was
solid for twelve continuous days. The longest period of similar
temperatures by Kane's record is but Ave days.

Sergeant Rice, hunting on the 20tli, shot at a hare, but did
not obtain liim. lie reported thai the hare travelled for a hun-
dred or more yards at a time by jumping on its hind legs, for
distances of six to eight feet, never touching the ground with
the forepaws. lie said he thought it at lirst an optical illusit>n,
but the tracks conflrmed his eyesight, showing the hind feet
only to liave touched the snow.

Tiie measurement of the sea-ice on February 2 Lst showed a
thickness of fifty-two and a half inches, an increase of eight
inches in ten days, in a mean temperature of —-IS. 5° (— -ilr.T" C).

WINTER EVENTS.

193

This is an unusually large increase, probably the largest on rec-
ord, considering the previous thickness of the ice.

AVasliiiigton's birthday was celebrated by an elaborate dinner
and by races and shooting-matches. The snow-shoe walk was
won by Biederbick, and rille-shooting at a hundred yards by
Private Long. Tlie return of J^ieutonant Lockwood's party
from his successful trip to Cape Eeechy added to the zest of
our celebration. Tlie temperature remained steady at — 44°
(—'1-2.° C.) during the day, which hardly encouraged out-of-
door sports.

The day following Hergeant Elison and Private Whisler were
sent to J)epot "A" (Cape Murchison) witli dog-sledge, to re-
pitch the tent and to put it in good condition for future travel-
lers. Dr. Pavy also accompanied them, and, while they were at
work pitching the tent, carried a small load of pemmican and
alcohol to the nortli side of St. Patrick Bay.

A niiiiinunu thermometer was exposed at Cape Murchison
near the tent, with a view to its being read by all visiting parties.
On the same day Sergeant Linn, Council, and Biederbick vis-
ited the mine and got out some live tons of coal, and hauled
about live hundred pounds on a Hudson Pay sledge to the edge
of the ice-foot in Water-course Bay.

A checker tournament was commenced early in the month,
and after a long contest, which created a pleasurable and healthy
excitement, terminated on the 2-lrth, the prizes being won by
Jewell, AV^hisler, and Elison.

Lieutenant Ivisliiigbury visited the sunnnit of Mount Cani])-
bell on the 25th, and reported that from all appearances the
storm of January l»!th must have been the most severe at that
point for the })revious six years. The cairn erected by the
English expedition in 1S70 was blown over, and the spar sur-
mounted by the iron pipe was broken short off. From Lieu-
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THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

tenant Kislingbniy's account, the spar and cairn had been lifted
by the wind and carried five linndred yards, where wedging
between two roclvs thev were cani>:lit fast.

llunti:ig during the hvtter part of the month was assiduously
pursued with no results. Unfortunately two of the hares, which
had been hung up, as it was supjiosed out of reach of the dogs,
disappeared. Suspicion naturally rested on two dogs, who
accepted their food from the cooks in a nonchalant manner,
which is quite unusual with these animals. This was the lirst
meat thus lost.

February 25th: "The cold weather just passed has been
remarkable for its duration as well as its severity, the mean
temperature for thirty-five days, January 20th to February 2-tth
inclusive, has been —47.1° ( — 43.9'' C). During this time the
mercury had been frozen solid except for sixty-seven hours.
On fifteen other hours the temperature was but a fraction of a
degree above the melting point of mercury, but did not con-
tinue there sufficiently long to thaw the thermometer. Tiie
mercury remained solid for sixt:^eii days and five hours con-
tinuously. Until 10 I'.M. of the 10th the highest temperature
in February was —43.3° ( — 41.8° C.) ; the mean of these six-
teen days was —52.3'^ (—40.8° C). The mean for the same
time of the thermometers exposed at the tide-hole was —54.6°
(—48.1° C), showing that the air on the fioe was about
2.3° (1.3° C) lower than that in the instrument-shelter, where
the thermometers were at a level of forty feet above tiie
sea."

AVhilc hunting, on the 25th, Sergeaiit Erainard found several
cross sections of a petrified tree near the station and about nine
hundred feet above the sea. The several sections varied from
five to eleven inches in diauioter, of which the longest, on the
surface of the ground, was eighteen inches. A few sections

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WINTER EVENTS.

195

projected from the ground a foot or two. Fragments were
strewn around, but no limbs or knots were observed.

Sergeant l>rainard, referring to the grecnisli-ycllow tint which
had come to all our faces, and which the near approach of the
buii rendered very iioticeable, says : " A few of our vainest men
were observing themselves in a mirror by the noonday light.
Much to their gratitication their pallor gave a delicate appear-
ance quite unusual to their smoke-begrimed countenances in
(puirters."

Our last day of winter came, and with it the long expected
return of the suji. Lieutenant Ivislingbury and Private Whisler
climbed Jjellot Island and saw the whole disk, but the rest of
the party, as the temperature was — •iCO'' ( — -l-S.T" C), were
content with a view of the upper limb from the station. Light
clouds veiled its coming as well as its departure, and no shadows
were cast, but we could see that it was there. The scene was
neither impressive nor magniticent, yet I think all our hearts
re-echoed that exclamation of " blessed sun '' from the poor
Italian of Payer's expedition, while thanking God that to us in
health and strength i;ho sun had reappeared, and our first Arctic
winter had ended. *

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Hudson Bay Sleilgo Patlein. Relief Expedition, 1884.

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CIlAPTEIi XVTI.

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IMlEl'AIlATIOISrS von SLKDOINO.

A CTIYE prejiaratlons for spring sledging were conmicnccd
early in February, anil by the niidtlle of the month the
main quarters had been turned into a great workshop for our
saddler, tinman, and carpenters. Sledges, boat, "ooklng-lamps
and utensils, sleeping-bags, foot-geai", etc., were in ])rocess of
invention, manufacture, or repair.

These preparations entailed great circinnspection and fore-
thought before they were linally completed. 1\) send out a
sledge party for a long Arctic journey denumds that careful
planning and thorough outfitting which can be successfully done
only after a certain amount of tiold experiences, supplemented
by thoughtful consideration of the ditliculties to be met with
and as to the means best adapted to overcome them. Indeed,
not oidy the success, but the very safety of a party may bo put
in jeopardy by the neglect of seemingly trifling matters. The
dangers which may arise frotn the dampening of juatches was
illustrated in the experience of oiie of our parties in the early
spring days, and the leaking or loss of the alcohol-lamp or can
in the tield would prove a dangerous if not a fatal circumstance.

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IMIKrAKATIONS FOIl 8LKI)(JINO.

107

The lamps, if not properly made, increase largely the clianccs of
destroying the tent by fire, even if they escape exploding to the
great danger of the party.

Sir Edward lielcher, in his first trip, lost an entire day's ration
iif alcohol, and endangered the tent, hy the nse of a soldered
cooking-lamp, from which the tilliiig-tube fell off the first time
the lamp was lighted. These and other similar defects are such
as can be provided against by care and forethought.

The success of any sledging party depends almost entirely
on two important points : Fii'st, the adaj)tal)ility and the state
of perfection of the entire travelling-gear ; second, the ability
of the chief to reduce the constant weights- to a minimum,
while retaining everything absolutely essential to the mainten-
ance of perfect health and the performance of satisfactory
scientific work.

The retreat oC Franklin's expedition ])n)ved fatal through
these principles being neglected, and, iiulood, the lack of success
in nioft cases can be traced, directly or indirectly, to a failure
to liilfil these conditions.

It had been my original intention that the greater part of
the work of exploration should be done with dogs, of which
three full teams had been ])urchased in Greenland. Of twenty-
seven dogs purchased at the Danish ports, only twelve were
living at the end of 1881. vMl the teams had been attacked
bv disease introduced by the doi"-s sold to me bv the sjovernor
of l'i)ernivik, from which sickness the greater part perished.
Fortunately there were thriH? private dogs in the expedition,
one of which belonged to Dr. I'avy and two had been given
to me personally. This enabled me to put into the field two
teams of seven dogs each, to which Dr. I'avy added to his

* Constant weights are those hauled from begiuning to end, such as tent-
age, sledges, instruments, cooldng and other gear.

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THUKK YKAUS OF AUCTIO SKUVR'K.

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own team his private dog. ("arel'ul attention had resulted in
the saving of nine of the ])uppies horn tlie ])reviou8 Xovend)er,
])Ut their use in the lield that sjiring was (piite out of the (pies-
tion, though I counted, and ])ro])erIy, on making them usefid
hiter in tlio season. Tliis lo.ss of dogs cauaed nic to modify
my origiiud plans, in which I liad intended that the sujtport-
ing sledges, drawn hy men, should never lie ahsent from the
station for more than a week.

The <iuestion of sledges was an imjuirtant and ditllcult one
to settle. The INIeC .lintock sledge, whit-h was so strongly en-
dorsed hy Payer and the English e.xpedition of 1875, was viewed
by me distrustfully, owing to its partial failure witli the latter
expedition, ^vhieh used it cntiivly. Although the enduring
powers and strength of my men were remarkable, yet it could
not be e.vpccted that, as a whole, they should be as strong as tlio
men of 1S75, who were selected from the whole of the royal
navy. "When their picked crews had failed, I could not expect
to succeed if I followed the same methods.

The Hudson 15ay sledges had been strongly recoiumended
by Dr. liae, and 1 liiuiUy di-cidtMl to use that pattern for my
supporting sledges on the North (Jreenlaiid coast, particularly
as Lieutenant neaumont's experience showed the existence of
deep, soft snow, in which the ]\Ic(-lintock sledge would be sub-
stantially useless. In cou.<equcnco four Hudson Uay sledges
were made, which were shod with a light strij) of ash fastened
to the bottom at either side so as to serve in a measure for run-
ners. In one sledge the strip of ash was shod with steel, but
as its use seemed to indicate that the increased friction made
shoeing a disadvantage, I unfortunately abandoned my orig-
inal idea, and sent out the remaining sledges shod only with
wood. I should have remembered that Back's voyageurs liauled
only a hundred pounds on their sledge, yet the rough travel

rUEPAUATIONS FOll SLEDOINd.

1!)!)

wore out the niiinci's, and the sledgcb wcro uourly broken up till
ho bIkmI them with steol.

To future expiororri in lii^li hititudcs, 1 rocomiiiciul Hunt's
pattern of tlio St. Micliaers sledge as made for tlie lielief Ex-
pedition, hSS4-, with the important addition of stoi ri/nncrs,
which should he m) arranged as to he attached or detached at
pleasure; an extra runner hoth steel and Wdodeii to be carrieil
on long journeys. This with the (Jreeidand sledge would ful-
fil aiiy ordinary field conditions, but whiMi a retreat is contem-
plated or lioats are to be hauled, the Melville sledge should
rei)lace the Mut'lintock", of which it is an iinprovenient.

Hunt's St. Michael Sledge. Relief Expedition, 1884.

These Jludsou Hay sledges, with lashings and coverings com-
plete, each weighing about thirty-live pounds, entailed less
weight upon the men than would the ^FcClintock. In addition,
the sledge would wear out and not break, while the McClintock
sledge, with its mortised stanchions and tight rivets, is a .Ntruc-
tiire that cannot remain long unbroken alter its I'igid I'ranie
is subjected to the violent shocks conse(]uent on travel over
very rough ice.

They possessed this further advantage, that as four Hud-
son Bay sledges replaced one McClintock sledge, whenever the
food consumed or placed in caches reduced the weights of the
party to any considerable extent, the constant weights would

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TIIUKK YKAUS <tF AUCl'IC Si:itV K'l:.

lio rppilarly dccruasiul l)y abaiulmiiii^ a slcdrjo as soon as ita
loail coukl bo (llvitliHl between tiiu reniaiiiiiij^ t^ledijcH. In this
wav it pc'cnicd iKtssiblc to niateriallv reduce llie dead weiu'lit to
be baiiled as the party ]»i'uee(Mled, a cdndition essential to
niarlvcd success, as tlic strengtli ol' all slediro parties nnist
necessarily diiniiush as tlioy ii('vaiice. At tlie I'artlie.-'t point
reached, and in the retnrn joiLiiey, but thirty-live poiuids (»f
pledge would be hauled by the party, as agidnst one Imndrcd
and thirty to one hinidre(l and ciiihty pounds weight involved
in haidiug a McCiintock sledge.

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bit'dgu

It was to be expected tliat long experience sliouhl make the
Eskimo of (ireenland coginzant of rhe best pattei'ii to be used
for such j)urposes, and so the (ireenland sledge was adopted as
our ]iattern for the dog-sledge. The lashings of the (ii-eonlnnd
sledge being of seal-skin pernut the sledge to be ban
rougliest possible manner without its being' ' '

The oidy serious danger of l)rcaking tlie (i avi . is i

its runners, whicli split longitudinally throng ilie row of holes
bored to receive the lashings. The upstanders and tl (• runners

rUKrAKATlOXS Foil SI-KI)(1IN().

201

(tf (iitr slcdp's were c.'in'fiilly stroiij^tlieiUMl l»y setting' in i)liiti'.s
of \\roui:;lit iron, ko fli.'it tlm chancort of hjilittin<^ wore i;roiitly
(liiiiiiiislu'd. Tlio pine hints coiiimoiily in iiso in ( Jrci'iiliiiitl
were repliicod hy tlio best Ainorit'jvn asli, hickorv, or oak.
Kvcii with tlu! utmost })rccautioii tlio slats will l>n ifradually
worn out, anil linally broken, l»y tlin constant ))ouiuliii_i; and
friction on the iu1)l)l(( an<l liunmiocky ice. It is conse<iuently
essentiul that two or three extria ulatH should he carried.

Dr. I'avy had e.\i)erinieiited somewhat in roiiard to the
niiMlilication of the (Jrccidand slediie ])att('ni with ill suc-

Aii. lint biniciui bl.•ll^;■.■ ■ ^ uurul ,it Capi- Ba.tcl 81" jo' U.

cess, us lie reduced the leui^th of sled, aiul so added to
its unnianageableness muler difKcult conditions. As the short-
eninii; theory had failed, it later occurred to mo tliat in
the rough ruhlile ice, which all of the parties wei'c certain
of expcriencinjj; to a greater or lesser extent, the chai:ged coii-
ditiotis necessitated a longi'r sledge to avoid the fi'oiit catch-
ing at the bottom of a declivity, and a bi'oadci' one U> prevent
ujisetting. Eventually the sledges were lengthened some six
inches, and were made about three inches broader. This re-
sult, it is true, increased the weight of the sledge from ninety-

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TIIUEE YKAUS OF AKCTIC SEIiVICK.

five to one liundred and five pounds, but it was found that tlie
advant-'.ges derived were so sj;reat tliat, after once ti'ying the
new pattern, no officer was willing to go on a long journey with
the old sledge. Jt is interesting to note that old Eskimo
sledges, discovered later at Cape Uaird, on the shore of Lake
Ilazen and elsewliere in (irinnell Land, were proportionally of
even greater length than our improved pattern.

The question of the sh-lging ration was one of vital impor-
tance. Jt is true that the vhiily allowance of a man should he con-
lined to such amount of food as is barely suthcient to maintain his
health and strength, but it is better to err on the side of safety
than to iiicm- the serious danger of dimiiushiiij' the strength of
men subjected to such arduo\is labor aiul great exposure.

Sir Etlward Tari'v, in ist>7, adopted nineteen ounces solid
food as his sledging ration, an amount which he found to be en-
tirely insuthcient for his men. Dr. Kae in one journey adopted
twenty-nine ounces, which was not enough, and later took
thirty-four ounces, which was supplemented somewhat by
game. Other parties have i'onnd thirty two ounces, when <///
pemmican, enough solids. (Vmvicts at liai'd labor in Kngland
receive fifty ounces solid food — mostly bread and vegetables,
iiowevcr. Payer believes that from forty to forty -iiv(! oinices
solid food arc necessary for a sledging man daily, and he states
that ^FcC'lintock, the great .\rctic sledge travellei', allow«!d from
forty to forty-eight ounces. The ^Vrctic expedition under
Captain >;..res adopted a sledging ration of tiiirty-eight ounces
solid food, an amount, 1 thiidv, inadeijuate for the inainteiuince of
strength in an extended trip, uidess it consists of peimnican or
other highly concentrated substances, such as it is evident nio>t
men cannot assimilate j)roperly. The solids of the Nares ration
were twenty ounces of meat, fourteen of biscuit, two each of pre-
served potatoes and sugar, which, with four ounces of fuel, two

PREPAKATIONS FOIl SLEDGING.

203

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of rum, an ounce of chocolate, a lialf ounce each of tea and
tobacco, with condiments, made a grand aggregate of iGjs\
ounces.

1 concluded to increase the solids to thirty-nine ounces, and
to add an ounce of lime-juice and a half ounce of fuel, by sub-
stituting food, etc., for rum. The sledgo I'ation of 1SS3 was
viewed as a tentative one, aiid, while the parties remained in
perfect health and did remarkable work, vci, owing to the gen-
eral representations, I deemed it necessary, in 1S83, to increase
it and to modify the character of the food by re[)lacing bread
with butter and meat. The ration I finally decided on fur the
latter year was twenty-two ounces of meat, two of butter, four
of vegetables, ten of bread, two of sugar, one-half ounce of
milk, one ounce of tea and chocolate, salt one-fourth, and
pepper one-twentieth of an ounce. The alcohol allowance of
1S82, four and a hali ounces :ifter April Sdth, (five ounces be-
fore), was increased rlie following year to six, as being the
smallest amount on bich a party of three or four could
properly cook thcii' food. The ration of 1SS;{ consisted, be-
sides bevc.ages, of forty and a half ounces of food. Three-
fourths of the meat ration wore aI)out e(|ual <piantitius of
penmiican, bacon, and frozen nuisk-meat, while the balance
was made up of camied sausage and corned beef.

As a result of my experiences, 1 woidd now recommend the
.sime (piantity of solid food, but wo\dd place the vegetable ration
at thrje ounces preserved potatoi's, replacing the other ounce l)y
a half ounce each (■!' milk and of extractof beef. Of the twenty-
two ounces of meat. 1 do not think that more than eleven ounces
should 1)0 ])eiiunican, the balance to be divided between bacon and
fresh meat ; the latter to be sliced line and frozen. In case fresh
meat cannot be obtained, it \vi>idd si'cm to me well to make the
remaining eleven ounces of meat consist of four ounces of bacon

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TIIUKK YKAHS OF ARCTIC SEIIVICK.

and the balance of sansago and canned fresh meat, the latter to
be cooked as little as is possil)le consistent with its preservation.

"With the present means of carrying large (piantities of fresh
meat, it seems nnnecessarv that anv future expedition should be
deprived of these valuable antiscorbutics, and of all men those
in the field should be provided M-ith it. ].iine-juice peinmican
jn'ovod to be very mipalatable, and was only eaten mider j)ress
of hummer.

The use of butter and condensed milk in the Held cannot be
too highly connnended. Tea, the true Arctic drink, should be
used for three-fourths of the meals in the field ; the balance
slundd consist of cutVee in preference to chocolate. It seemed
to be generally admitted by our parties that chocolate could not
be draidv in the field, except at camping, as it seemed to induce
thirst diu'ing the day if used befoi'e the mai'ch. Tli-j use of
extract of tea and extract of coffee would probably reduce the
weight of beverages to onedialf ouncn, and in place might bo
substituted curry-paste or some other powerful condiment. If
extract of tea cannot be used, the tea taken should be com-
pressed.

No I'uiii was ever sent as a sledge ratiou, but a liberal aianiiiit
was always furnished as medicine, with authority for it to be
used on extraordinaiy occasions at the discretion of the officer
in charge. In outfitting another sledge party I should furnish
it with a small (piantity of rum. not exceeding an dunce a dav,
to be \ised under sindlar restrictions.

On the above ration of 1SS2, parties kept the field for forty
days in a mean temperature behnv zero ( — 17.8^ ('. ), and re-
turned in health and strength ; and others for shoi'ter periods
in extreme temperatures did arduous Avork without detriment
to liealth and strength. At depots and on return marches the
parties occasionally liad an opportunity of an extra allowance.

PHKPAU.VTIONS FOR SLEDGING.

205

which probably raised the average solids to forty ounces daily.
It is not to be assumed, however, that the ration oi: IS83 is
beyond criticism ; but, as success commands attention and respect,
our experiences are not to be lightly passed by. The acids of
limes, milk, and raw meat enter into it, and the peculiar quali-
ties of beef extract and of potatoes supplement them. The
variety of diet, and the sntficicncy of fuel to properly lieat the
food, are also important points.

Tobacco was not used as a sledge ration, and each man was
expected to carry on his person such as he desired to use. One
or two of our men regularly abandoned the habit while serving
in the field.

It was a constant practice in establishing supplementary de-
pots for returning parties, to add to them an extra amount
o£ canned fruits, such as pears, apj)les, cranberries, and also
sugar aiul milk. These articles were most in demand by the
hungry and exhausted sledge-men.

Regarding the vexed (piestion of liiiie-juico, no trouble was
experienced in its use as a sledge ration. The amount to be
used in advancing was furnished the party, frozen into small
srpiares, each of which represented a ratit)n. This ration was
most acceptable to the men in the field, and on occasions it
was taken in a frozen condition, much to the refreshment and
invigoration of those who were in <piite an exhausted condition.
My surgeon, however, disapproved of this methoil ol: taking it,
although the immediate result seemed beneficial. The lime-
juice for return trips was sent in rnl)l)t'r bags, which, of course,
froze soliil. but on the return journey the temperature was al-
ways high enough to melt it. In an}' case, as lime-juice thaws
at a temperatm-e of about 14^ (— 10^ C), it could be easily
brought to a li(piid state by keeping it in a sleeping-bag over
night.

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TlIUKli YEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

Alcohol of great slroiigth is the best fickl fuel, and should be
carried in tightly sealed vessels of about two gallons, which
not only insures safety by dividing the supply, but enables
caches to be frequently made for the return journey and the
dropping of empty tins. The soot and smoke from stearine
arc quite unbearable, and entering the lungs must affect the
health in long journeys. A stitficient number of india-rubber
bags to carry two gallons of alcohol were taken for ordinary use.

Our cooking utensils were of the simplest character. The
lamp and all the cooking vessels were tire-proof, made as far as
practicable of single pieces of heavy tin without solder. Care-
ful and systematic experiments caused us to adopt a cooking-
lamj) having jive wicks, but it is evident that the nund)er of
wicks to be used must depend on the extent of the heating
surface to be exposed to its action.

Speed in cooking and economy of fuel by no means go
hand in liand. The successful economy of an alcohol cook-
ing-lamp depends very largely on skilful manipulation of the
wicks, which nnist be pulled up just far enough to aHow the
heat given forth to be entirely utilized, so that the food
is cooked with a mininnun amount of alcohol. The best
lamp, then, is that which does the greatest amount of work
on tlu! allowance of fuel. ()nr experiments were made in
a iield-tent In a temperatiu'e of —'20' ( — •2S.<r C), and the
snow used for melting was a' a temperature of —30^ ( — 31-.1'
C). These conditions were similar to those in later field work,
except that we experimented on snow, wliich recpiires more
fuel than ice to reduce it to water. The held lamp in sixteen
miinites melted enough snow to produce two and a half cjuarts
of water, and ten minu;; ; later raised it to the boiling point.
At the same time, in an upper vessel, there was made one and
a half quart of water, and it was raised to a temperature of

PUEPAUATIONS FOll SLEDdlNG.

207

33^ ( + 0.6° C). Four ounces of alcohol were expcmled in this
work. Tiiis agreed well with the I'esults ol)taiiied by J'ayer,
who boiled three gallons of water from snow at —13° ( — 25°
('.) to —22^ (—38^ C.) by an expenditure of twelve ounces of
alcohol. Payer does not say, but T suppose his experiments
were made in the ticld. ( )ur small lamp for two men boiled water
at an expense of one-eighth ounce alcohol to each pint of water,
a greater expenditiu-e than with our large lamp, in accordance
with the well-known fact that fuel ra-

([^=^

tiou can be decreased as the number
to be cooked for is increased. This
latter lamp, which, with its frame and
cooking-vessel complete, weighed but
sixteen ounces, was called by the men
the '' Tramp's Companion."

The accompanjing illustration shows
the cooking apparatus. A is a stout,
sheet-iron cylinder with perforations
for air to reach alcoliol lain]) K, whicli
fits closely in the bottom of the cvlin-
der. I> and C are tin tire-proof vest^els
with cylinder in centre, which allows
heat to rise to D, where bits of iron,
laid crosswise on top of C, allow th-j
smoke, with some littli! heat, to escai)e. In this way biit little
heat is wasted. D inverted lits into A, covering and protecting
K while packed. Despite the seemiigly frail character of this
apparatus, it withstood all tests, and one vessel and lamp, used
for two months northwani, aiterwai'd did service for many
months through our retreat and life at Sabine. In ]>rcparing
future lamps and cooking vessels, the bottoms should be, I
think, of tolerably heavy co,)per.

Field Cooking Apparatus.

! 1

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ill

(

I i

hl\ •'

208

TIIllEE YEAUS OF AUCTIC SERVICE.

Contrary to the generally received oi>inion8, fur clothing,
even for Held services, was not highly valued by the members of
jiiy party. It was the general experience that complete double
suits of woollen underclothing of the best (piality, with the
outer clothes of connnon, thick, woollen material, was all the
covering that was necessary to insure comfort in the field. It
is important, however, that the surface of the outer garments
should have a smooth finish, so as to ]n'eve7it the adherence of
snow to the cloth. In onler to avuid this result, the army
stable-frocks and overalls, which were made of very light can-
vas, were worn as outer garments, and proved very satisfactory
in this respect ; the men, taking them off at night, were able to
enter their sleeping-bags with their outer garments in an en-
tirely dry condition. Soal-skin teinial'K, or jumpers, were found
serviceable only in windy weather, and were but little used.
Seal-skin trousers were tried by nearly every man in the party,
and were discarded by the majority of us, although some ad-
liered to the use of them.

However prudently a man may work, he cannot prevent
pei'spiration from starting while pulling un the sledge or run-
ning after it. The moisture thus engendered passes readily
through woollen underclothing to finally form as hoar-frost on
the exterior surface of the outer garment, from which it can
be brushed. Ihit when seal-skin is worn the moisture collects
on the inner side, and saturates all the underclothing as well as
the seal-skin itself ; uidess the exertion is steadily continued,
the damp seal-skin freezes, and is about as convenient and
comfortable as a coat-of-mail. AV'hen camp is made, the un-
fortunate sledjie-man is not onlv obliged to thaw out the seal-
skin suit with the heat of his body, but must also dry uj) the
moisture. This operation is not oidy unhealthy, but it induces
cold, nuikes drafts on his strength, and interferes with liis reg-

PKEPAKATIONS FOIl SLEDGING.

209

uliir Bleep. These objections largely disappear when a man
can travel leisurely, and refrain from exertions to such an ex-
tent as to be free from perspiration, conditions which in CJrin-
nell Land are not possible with successful exploration.

The great trouble in Arctic field service is to protect the
person from frost-bite. This is not as difficult as is generally
supposed, and whenever frost-bites occur it will be almost in-
variably found that the officer or men have neglected well-
known and strongly emphasized precautions. Inexperience or
imprudent carelessness causes nineteen-twcntieths of such cases.
These remarks have reference particularly to exposure to tem-
peratures above —?A)° ( — 34.(>° C), as that amount of cold, from
observation, appeared to me to be about the minimum to which
men can be ex})osed for a long time, without tlie man has ex-
traordinary resisting j^owers or is most carefully equijiped.
l\o man should bo i)ut in the field who perspires excessively, or
whose circulation is not excellent.

The whole foot and hand gear must be soft, pliable, and
never tight enough to in any manner impede the circulation.

Pliability permits that easy and continuous flexure of the
joints which in Arctic travel is absolutely essential to maintain
warmth. The inner covering of the foot should be some non
conducting nuiterial, wliich not only retains the heat generated
by the foot, but permits perspiration to pass througii. Notliing
is better than heavy, clostii/ 7,'/i/f, all-wool socks. Oidy one
pail' of socks should be long enough to reach the knee, the
others reaching just to and slightly above the ankle joint.
k?ome ])referred to replace the shortest sock by a blanket
wrapper, which is only the sock In a clumsy shape. The outer
foot-gear may be either moccasins or the Labrador or Green-
land l)oot, which some prefer, owing to its being oil-tanned

and capable of I'esisting, imchanged, occasional inunersion in
14

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\¥ '1

210

THREE YEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

water. The moccasins sliould have light canvas leggings.
Both moccasins and boots should be taken, and should l)e made
to order to insure their being large enough, numbers to run
from nine to twelve. One pair of each is a iiuniinam allowance
for each month of sledging that is to be expected of each man.

Failure to obtain moccasins expected from Canada, and in-
ability to procure many boots in Greenland, obliged us to sup-
plement our supply by home manufacture. Canvas boots did
not prove a success, but the second winter our saddler, Fred-
erick, extemporized foot-gear which answered admirably all
recjuirements. It consisted of an ngsnh skin bottom, so skil-
fully turned up and sewed that no seam was exposed as a wear-
ing surface, with felt-cloth tops. Timer soles of buffalo, bear,
or reindeer skin are very desirable — the hair clipped short —
which, taking u]) the moisture from the socks, keeps the inner
sole of boot or moccasin dry. I cannot reconnnend dog-skin
or other skin inner socks for wear iu travelling. Tiiev uii-
doubtedly are excellent when parties travel very slowly or ride
much on the sledge. They should be furnished, however, with-
out fail, for use as sleeping socks.

Woollen mittens (no gloves), with an outer pair of seal-skin,
answer for the hands, if supplemented by indisi)ensable woollen
wristers, Avhich, extending downward from midway between
elbow and wrist, leave fingers and thumb free fur use. In low
temperatures the bare hand must be always available. The
outer seal-skin mittens should have two thumbs, and lit either
hand equally well. In the field they should be secured to the
coat by lanyards. To lose a mitten is sometimes dangerous.

The head is best protected by a whaler's cap, a leather
woollen-lined cap with a turn-down attachment, but individual
taste can largely be consulted. Xot only is there no satisfac-
tory protection for the face, but face-cloths or preparations,

PKKPAUATlOIiS I'Oli SLEDGING.

211

gnch as glycerine, etc., are dangerous in very low temperatures.
During travel, facing a wind — which should very rartily bo
(lone — the face is largely protected by a seal-skin covering,
which projects several inches in front of the face and resem-
bles a poke bonnet. The projecting portion is kept stiff by
a small piece of bent whalebone. The face, es})ccially the
nose, nmst be kept from freezing by the frequent application
of the warm hand, which is simply placed against the part in
danger of freezing, and is never violently rubbed over it. The
danger of applying snow of a temperature of —40' (—40° C.)
to an already frozen nose, is evident from the mere statement of
the case ; but when it is rubbed, the snow, being like fine sand,
grinds off the cuticle of the nose or face. One of our party, ignor-
ant of this fact, rubbed nearly all the skin from his nose, which
swelled greatly and gave him nmch after-j)ain and suffering.

(toggles of neutral-tinted glass should always be worn over
the eyes during long journeys ; otherwise no man is certain of
escaping snow-blindness, which entails great pain on the per-
son, extra labor on others, and perhaps causes failure of the
journey. It is dilHcult to enforce this rule, which is equally
important on dull or on bright days.

( )ur sleeping-bags were of well-tanned buffalo-skin, which
can be recommended. JSheepskin was tried, and found to make
a warmer bag, but they cannof be recommended for long or
important journeys. They are not only heavier, but they col-
lect moisture very rapidly, and are soon a mass of ice. The
bag should slope gradually, with increasing size from the bot-
tom, which should be large enough to afford comfortable j-oom
for the feet, to a broad Hap, which can be pulled down over the
head bv strings runnina; throuirh rinys, as shown in the illus-
tration, and then into the sleeping-bag. If lightly covered
with strong oiled silk or thin rubber-cloth, it would be nnich

'f I

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212

tiikej: ykaks of auotic skuvick.

improved, thus preventing tlio cullectioii of moisture which in-
ereiises the weight greatly and adds mucli to the discomfort of

the occupants. Eacli
bag shoidd he for two,
or at the most tliree,
men. Men sleeping
.singly suffer much
more from cold than
in dduhle hags. Our
tent-cloths, though ex-
cellent, could have
been well replaced by
light gutta-percha mat-
tresses, which, inllati'd
with air and placed un-
der the bags, would add
much to the waiinth
of the travellers.

Connnon army tents
were used by us for
iiehl service, and in
tliese were spread rul)-
ber tent-cloths, which, made to order for Arctic service, never
cracked or split from severity of the cold, a.s lias sojnetimes
occurred in previous expeditions. Regular tent-poles and iron
pins were made wac of. It seems possible that a rid)ber tent
could be invented which should nnite both tent and cloth,
and wliich could bo kept upright by a light frame; but tent-
age in general is a simple question, in regard to which per-
sonal ])references can safely be yielded to. The dog or shelter
tent should be used when practicable, owing to its extreme
lightness, in late spring or early autunm travel.

Threo-man Buffalo Sleeping-bag.

CIlArTEU XVIII.

THANK GOD JlAKJJOIt A.N1> HAJJ.'s (iUAVK.
LIKUTKNANT LdCKWOOlTs WOUK.

/^UR lirst spriiij:; Blediiiii^- aiiticiputcd llio return of the sun
^^ by toil days. Lioiitfimiit I.uckwoud left on Februiiry 19th,
accoiiij)iiiiied by Sergeant Brainard and Eskimo Christiansen,
with dog-sledge Antoinette. His orders required liini to visit
depot "IV near Capo IJeechy, and to examine the ice in
liobeson Channel, Avith a view of selecting the best route to be
followed in a later trip to Thank (iod Harbor.

Tiic ice-foot from Fort Conger to Cape Ijoeehy was found to
be in excellent condition, the rubble ice being packed with hard
snow. The low temperature, —42° (—41.1° C.), caused the
sledge to drag with great ditliculty, owing tt) the oxtraordiiuiry
amount of friction. The tent at depot '' A " in passing was
found to be blown down, probably by the violent gale of
January 10th.

The snow-house at depot '• J>," constructed the previous
autumn, was completely concealed by drift snow, which covered
the roof of the house several feet deep. In digging out the
entrance to the snow-house, the self-registering thermometer,
from which I had hoped to obtain the minimum temperature
of the winter at Cape Ileech}', was unfortunately broken.

Sergeant Brainard, in his field journal, records: ''Found a
considerable quantity of snow in the snow-house, which had

J l!

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I h

111!

III

214

TIIKKK YKAUS OF AKCTIC SKKVICK.

blown ilowji tlio stovopipo mid formod alxtvo tlic stove ;i cone-
filiapud immnd, whii-li ii'iu'lit'd nearly to the rooF. AVorking
rapitlly, In about an liour we liad the satisfaction of wooing the
hou80 and passayo dear and a ylowiiiij; lire in tin; little stove.
I wonder if wo are not tl»o first Arctie travellers who, on such
a trip, liave had a good ooal-firo and a snow-bousu over it."

On the 2()th Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant T.rainard
examined the ice opposite the depot in the direction of I'olaris
I'roniontorv. Thev found nnich huinniockv ice intermixed with
considerable rubble, conditions which were hardly satisfactory
for sledging. AVbile the party were occupied in this reconnois-
sanco, the temperature at the station was —')'2A\ (—47^ ('.), but
tlioy were so satisfactorily clad that tbey did not suffer exces-
sively from cold, although they were obliged to watch each
other's faces to prevent their freezing \mder the inlluence of a
light nortlieast wind.

The t\)llowing day they examined the ice directly eastward of
Cape Jleechy, and, passing through a strip of very rough ice not
over two liimdred yards wide, reached a level i)aliv'0(;rystic floe
which afforded excellent sledging. They travelled several miles
toward the (ireenland coast, and fi-om a high lunnmock saw
that the road for a considerable distance to the eastward was
erpially favorable. The i>arty returned to Fort Conger on the
22d, in sulFiciently early time to participate in the anuisements
of the day.

The mercury was frozen during their entire absence, and the
mean temperature was —44.7° ( — 42.(5" C.) at the station, and
probably lower in the held. In these temperatures the party
had travelled between sixty and seventy miles in Arctic twilight,
for the snn had not returned to us, without frost-bite or mishap.
This success augured well for longer and more important jour-
neys, February 2Sth was marked by the first appearance of

THANK (iOI) HAItHOll AM) jrALl/s OUAVK.

215

tlio Blui, tliimgh its Blight effect on tlio tcmperatmo wu8 sliowii
by the tlioniiouieter rcconliiig —4!)" (—45° C).

On the following diiy, in obediunco to my instructions, Licn-
tonant Lockwood, with slcdgo Antoinotte, started for Thank
(ind I!iirl)(ir by the way of hepot " 15." His party consisted of
Sergeants .IJrainard, Jewell, and Kskimo Christiansen.

The main clauses of his orders recjidred that " ten days' allow-
ance of provisions, fuel, and dog-food will bo taken from here,
which will be .sui)plenicnted by such additions from Depot " I> "
(Capo Jjeechy) as can be carried without muterially impeding
your ])rogress across Robeson Chiuiiiel. Vour lirst duty will bo
to visit the observatory at Thank (iod Jlarbor, in t)rder to ascer-
tain exactly what supplies are there available for sledge par-
ties. . . . It is important that the boat cam[), in the ravine
about oiH! mile east of Capo Sumner, be visited, and the coiuli-
tion of the wbalit-boat ascertained. AVhile it is very desirable
that the coiulition of the ico across Xewman I'ay . . . should
be determined, . . . it is left to your judgment to aban-
<lon this part of the trip should adverse circumstances arise, or
should you think time could be gained for your spring work by
60 doing. Points should be .selected for future dejjots. . .
You will leave on the (Ireenland coast all supplies not indis-
pensable to your comfortable and safe return to Cape I'eechy.
As Sergeant Jewell will probably be charged with the support
of your i)arty during the spring, you should communicate freely
your views as to the best route and methods to be followed in
such work. ..."

Private Long and Eskimo Jens, with a second dog-team, which
carried supplies to Depot " B," were placed under his orders, to
support him as far beyond Cape Bcechy as would be necessary.

Good travelling and fresh teams enabled them to make the
trip to Depot " B," a distance of twenty-eight nules, in five

■J

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•I ,'

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210

TIIirCE YKAUS OK AUCTK! SEUVICE.

hours and twenty minutes. Tlie night was spent cotnfortahly
in the snow-house, and the following morning Lieutenant Jiock-
wood proceeded on his journey, aerompanied, initil the rubhlo
ice off Ca2)e r>eec-liy was jjassed, by J*rivatc Long. Their stores
having been transferred to t'lo Antoinette, the supporting party
returned that evening to the huuie station, and the other
toward ( Jrocnland.

The load on the sledge Antoinette, on leaving Capo Becchy,
was about seven hundred pounds, which enabled the team of

eight dot's to travel fi ?''ly over the palsfocrystic floe. An hour
and a luiM's ti-avoi hix! igl't i/unitenant i^ockwood to the farthest
poi'it reached by him in his reconnoite-ing trip ten days previous.
iJeing 'oirotful a.s <^o the condition of the ice in atlvaiice, he left
one bag of provisions on a proiiiiueiit Imimnock, and continued
on toward The (i.ip (a marked iiidentatioii central in the bold,
high coast which stretches from Tape laqiton to Cape; Sunuu'r).
Several more hours of sledging over paheocrystic Jloes, varied
by deoj) suow undeilving a weak crust, brought tiie party to

cs
cr

THANK GOD lIAlinOU ATCO HALLS OKAVE.

217

the nibble ice, iiiul an h' mi- later they liad the gratification «£
putting foot on the (ireenland shore at Promontory Point (a
name given to the bold headland just south of The (Jap), where
their tent Avas ])itched for the night.

Five and a half hours' travelling south along the Greenland
cottht. on ]^[arch 3d, brought them to the obserxatury, on the
plateau above Thank (Jod Ilarboi-, occupied by liessel.s and
]>ryan in ISTl-ii. lieutenant Lockwood\s experience that day
convinced him that no ice-foot properly called existed along
that portion of the Greenland coast. In this respect his ex-
periences and opinions were verified !»y the ubservations of later
parties in both that and the subsequent year. Gentle slopes of
snow at times extended to the rows of stranded lioebergs,
affording level travel, but the ditRculty of' reaching it and lack
of contiiuiity rendered it better to keep out well from the
shore. -

Level palix'ocrystic floes oC great extent were at times
fallen in with, and in the vicinity of Thank (iod Ilarlior a cun-
siderable nuiiiber of lioebergs were found, most of which were
probablv grounded, and one ol^ which Serjjeant Brainaril tlioui-'ht
" mi<>;ht well be a remnant of Providence berg."'

Consiilering that it was originally a very light structure, the
observatory was in a comparatively fair condition, the sides and
one end yet stan<ling ; the other end and roof were found l)roken
in pieces, and scattered for several hundred yards in the im-
mediate vicinity. The building aifording no shelter, l.it'iiteiiant
Lockwood di'cideil to construct a snow-honse instead of pitching
his tent. One was dug out of a huge drift, in two hours"
time.

IMareli llli was spent in taking an in\entory of the su]iplics
stored in the dilapidated building. As the temperatnre was
37"^ below zero ( — 3^.3' ('.), and a fiesh northeast wind pre-

I5(^

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218

TIIKEE YEAKS OF AllCTIC SEUVICE.

v.iiled, the work was of the most severe character. Tlie stores
found agreed in no way with those given in llie Polaris record.
The Englisli provision-book gave a careful and detailed in-
ventory of articles found by them in 1S75, as well as of
those consumed by Lieutenant Ueaumont's party the subse-
(pient year.

The following articles of serviceable food were found ; Six
forty-iive-pouiid cans of penunican, about thirty-live poimds of
farina, a half barrel of lime-juice, and a barrel of yellow corn-
meal. Ten barrels of bard lircad, part made from Clraham
flour, Avere found in eatable condition, though some parts were
slightly moulded. There were a nundjer of iinscellaneous
articles in serviceable condition, the most important of which
were hatchets, saws, shovels, lead, shot, gnnpowdei", cartridges
for rirte and ])istol (calibre lifty), and centre-primed shot-gun
cartridges. The English ice-boat was carefully secured, and, as
far as could be detennined without disturbing it, was in excel-
lent coiulition. Two of the coverlets left by Lieutenant Beau-
mont contribnied mucli to the comfort of the sledging party in
their snow-bouse, being a most welcon'o addition as the tempera-
ture fell that night to --51' (-4t;.l C).

The graves of Captain Hall and of the Kngiish sailors JIand
ami I'aul were visited and found IoIk; in excellent order. The
head-board erected by the I'olaris party was so well arranged
orighially lliat it still looked (pate new, and stress of weather
had rendered illegible b\it few of the letters. The handsome
brass tablet erected by the English expedition under Sir George
lS'are<. a; a tiilmte '^o Captain lialFs memory, stood erect and
firm with no signs of decay or weakness in its sujiports. Lieu-
teiuuit I.ockwood carried and displaved the small natioiud lla<;
madi; by my wife, which was invariably carried as a sledge Hag
for th'o Antohiette.

r M

Li M

i i I

111

THANK GOD IIARHOK AND HALL S GRAVE.

210

From tlio adjoining cairn wove obtained anil Ijronglit to Con-
ger the records left by Captain kSteiilnnison, Lientenant JJean-
niout, and other officers of Her Majesty's Xavy in 1875-76.

The dreariness and desolation of the country immediately
adjoining the anchorage ground of the Polaris was com-
mented on, not oidy by Lieutenant I.ockwood and Sergeant
Erauiard, but by all others of the expedition who at any time
visited it. The surroundings, all agreed, were in marked and
disagreeable contrast with the innnediate '^"•untiy around Fort
Conger.

Lieutenant Lockwood deciiied to proceed to Cape Sunmci
over the same route as that followed by Captain Hall in 1870,
by the way of IS'ewman l>ay. ' 'onsetpiently, later in the <lay,
he examined the country in that direction, finding a level plain
whose rocky, gravelly surface was but scantily covei-ed with
snow, conditions which promised to make travelling difficult.

This absence of snow as a covering for the ground, not only
in Xorthern (Jreeidand, but in (irinnell Land, was general in our
two years' experience, and caused much comment as contrary to
expectations.

Sunday, March 5tli, proved a beautiful clear morning, with
keen frosty air and a temperatui'c, at 7 a.m., of —50.5'^
(—45.8^ C). The (Trinnell Lund coast, which had been hid-
den l)y low fog the preceding day, stood out clear and distinct
far to the westward of them as they turned their backs toward
it and started across tlie low country to Xcwmaii Hay. A nar-
row deep ravine was followed, which, rough and broken,
eventually brought thtMu i)ut "on an extensive plain stretching
to the east as far as could be seen. We foujid this little broken
by aTiy dee}) watei'-courses, though the absence of snow was
surprising. The thermometer registered —55.5'^ (—48.0° C),
and there was <|uite a i)erceptible breeze blowing in our faces."'

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220

TIIUEK YKAIJS OF AliCTIC SEUVICE.

li'.

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( .

After only t^ix liours' travelling, owing to the extremely low
temperature (it had not risen above —50° (—45.0' ('.) during
the day) and a rapidly falling barometer, Lieutenant Lockwood
deemed it the most prudent course to go into camp.

Tho deepest drift was searched out in a small ravine, wheic a
hole was dug in the snow, which was so shallow that the ground
was reached in less than four feet. The tent aTid poles covered
with snow formed its roof, and the party passed a Avarm night,
though cramped exceedingly for room owing to th(! snudl size
of the house. They had scarcely entered the hut when 'i
snow-storm with brisk wind sprang up, though the temperature
at that time was -51° (-40.1° C). Despite the storm with-
out, the heat of their bodies .lud the vapor from the alcohol
cooking-lamp raised tlie temperature t(t an micomfortable de-
gree, and from tlie tightness of the house nearly suffocated the

, i---

I'.ii I > .

Sergeant Jlrainard in his notes that evening records: " At 11
A.M. the thermometer recorded —55.5° (— 48.G'' C) while we
were travelling, and a light breeze from the northeast prevailed
at the same time. The temperature has remained below — 50"
( — 45.0" ('.) during the entire day, and at times we were com-
pelled to kee]) the warm hand to the face continually in order
to ])revtMit it fiom freezing < ireat as are our discomforts, we
arc congratulating oui selves upon the wai-mth imparted by our
sung suow-deii. The temperature has b(!en something almost
unknown in the annals of .\rctic exploration, and the snow-
storm Avhich connnenced about the time we entered camp, was
accompanied by brisk wind, which in a tent would probably
have frost-bitten some of the jwi'ty severely."

Payer records a sledge journey, j\Iarch 1.'5. 1S74, when tem-
peratures of -47.2" (-44° C.) and -50.8° (-46° C.) were ex-
perienced, lie says: ''I do not believe that .ve could have

♦ III!

THANK GOD HARBOR AND II ALL' 8 OllAVI-;.

'■221

passed tlironuh tlio night without the help of grog, in spite of
Avliich, boiling hot, wo suffered much all through the night from
cold and our frozen clothes."

Just before going into camp Sergeant Brainard discovered ou
that winter's snow the dung of a nnisk-ox, which he thouirht
could bo scarcely a week dropped. He well says: "Thisshould
be positive proof that the animal docs not migrate south with the
sun and return the following year as the sun advances, as many
assume to be liis habit, but remains in some well-sheltered val-
iey or ravine during the winter darkness, subsisting on whatever
conies in his way." This incident, and my personal experience,
as well as that of the Ih'itish expedition, loaves no d'mbt that
the nmsk-ox is a regular habitant of (Jrinnell i.aii'. A'orth-

ern (Jrceidand the entire year.

The moriung of JVFarch (!th it was nee jssary for the party to
Imrrow out of their lodging through the snow, as the tumiel
liad completely iillod from the drift of the prevailing storm.
The temperature, which had fallen to -52" ( — -i().T C\) during
the night, had then risen to -JJCf)" (-IJS.r C), but unfortu-
nately a fresh wind hail to lie faced in tnutilling.

Despite the continued wind and snow, the party moved on-
ward, and in two hours reached the level expanse of Newman
Bay, which was broken to the eastward only by a group of
rocks which Lieutenant Lockwood thought might be Ilowgato
Island of the Hall expedition. After four houi's' travelling,
the strong northerly wind produced s\ich frerpient frostd)ites tliat
it was deemed best to camp on reaching a favorable siu)w-drift.
They were fortunate enough to iin^l a snow-bank with a vertical
front, into which -i small entrance two feet wide and three feet
high was dug, for four feet, and then the interior was gradually
hollowed out until a largo roomy chamber was formed. The
entrance of the tumiel was covered with the tent, and the

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TIIKKK YKAUS OF AIICTIC SEKVUK.

alcohol-lamp used for cooking soon niised the tciuperatni'c of
the snow-lnit abovo the frcezini;' jH-iiit.

The storm hroko durinu' tliu night, and on tlie morning of
the 7th the sky cleared sufliciently for the sun to ho seen for a
lime, hut later snow reconunenced. After breakfast, at S a.m,,
the temperature outside was — 4!t.r)^ (—45.3^ C), with a brisk
wind I'mm the northeast, and during the day —52° ( — 40.7° C.)
was rcc()rde(h

Owing to the continued wind. Lieutenant I.ockwootl did not
deem it safe to travel, and the day was speiit in the snow-
hut.

The weather still contimied very bad on the 8th, though the
temperature rose to — ;>r/' ( — OT/J' C). An attempt was made
to proceed on the journey, but the wind increasing in strength
caused many frost-bites, as they were facing it, and in conse-
cpience the party were obliged to return to their snow-hut.

Inunediately after returning, altiiough the hut had been
vacated an hour, the following intere>.ting observations of tem-
peratiu'o were noted :

Outside the tunnel, —'.Vo^ { — 3Ck1° C.) ; on floor inside hut,
+ 3^ (1G.1° C); two and one-hall" feet above lloor, -f31°
(—0.(1" ('.). hater, when the alcohol-lamp was Imrning, the
temi)erature reaclu'd ttuly +',](>' (-t-i'.'J" ('.) inside the hut, but a
hole had jireviously been cut into the roi>f, which was covered
only by a piece of light canvas to si-rve as a window ; candles
having been forgotten.

An incident occun'red while in tlie snow-house which illus-
trated how inH)ortant a thing a match may be, and how slight
a neglect may imp(;ril the lives of a sleiige party. Lieutenant
Lockwood ami Sergeant ric well had used up oi- had lost llieir
stock of matches. lioth connnoii and wax matches were
supplied to and carried by sledge-nuMi, in water-tight cases

THANK GOD IIAIIHOll AND HALLS OUAVE.

223

of rubber, Sori^eatit ]>riiiiiar(l in his field- journal says : " A\'e
made the alaruiiiig discovery this evening that 1 was the
only one in the party who possessed nuitches, and those in
limited number. An attempt being made to light the wax
matches, it was found that they would not burn, the damj)ness
of the house having evidentlv been communicated to them,
liecollecting that I had a box of water-]n'oof matches in a
garment which was outside of the snow-house, I jirocured
them, and seating myself on a sleej)ing-bag, surrounded by my
anxious comrades wluj scarcely dared to breathe, commenced a
series of ex])eriments on the new matches. A 11 to no purpose;
they refused to burn, as did the wax, ami \\(tuld just ignite the
sulphur without even charriug the wood. AVe now began to
seriously consider our situation here. We were out of the
usual route of travel betw(!en Thank God Harbor and Newman
l!ay, without light autl lire, and with temperatures of freezing
mercury outside our damp snow-bouse. We were at least sixty
miles from home by the nearest route, and seventy by that wo
had followed. Could we live three, or even two days, without
water, until we could reach Depot "JI" (Cape neechy).:? It
was finally decided that if to-morrow was a favorable day for
travelling we could reach Cape Sumner, and the day following
Cape Heechy, and although we would suffer much from thirst
vet we would be able to make the journev. The I'l'volver was
suggested, and [Kiiier was prepared into which it was to be dis-
charged, but one of the jiarty wanted to give the matches
another trial. This was done. an<l match after match ignited
only to barely flicker auii go out. Jewell finally produced a
love-letter, which was very carefidly worn in some inside gar-
ment, and holding a piece to the next match it caught the flame
slowly and immediately connnunicated it to the alcohol-lamp,
one wick of which was allowed to burn uutil we (put the snow-

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224

rilUKE YKARS OF AUCTIC SEUVICK.

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house." Tlie causo of tlie iiiatchos not lij!;litiiig ovoiitually
proved to be the vitiated, daiiij) atmosphere of the hut.

On the luoniiui;- of the IHli, with a teinperaturo of —34:°
( — .'!<"». 7^ ('.), the party started for I'ohiris IJoat (.'amp, near
Cape iSumiier. In a ravine .sloping toward Newman J'ay
]lrainard and Jewell saw four j>tarnugan in perfect winter
plumane, and Lieutenant J.oekwood shot a hare, which stood
transtixed with astonishment at Jewell's anties as a beater-in.

As .snow was found upon the land the course was at Hrst kept
parallel with tlu' I>av, so that llevnolds Island was not to be
distinii'uislu'd ; but hitei- tluu' took to the lloe. The whole
surface-iee of Newman Hay was smooth and level, evidently
composed (if hari)or-icc of that season, and the snow upon its
surface was packi'd vci-v hard from tiie recent storm. Naturallv
this hard Icvi'l snow would seem to afford easy sledging, but
uidortunati'ly such is not the i'nct. Tlui dry snow at vcrv low
temperatures acts upon steel rumu'rs as dry .saiul, and the fric-
tion is simplv enoi'inous. The snow i-etarded ijreatlv their
progress, but whenever ice was fallen in with their gait was
comparatively rapid. No ice-foot was found along the shore of
Tvewnuiu r>ay.

Eight hours" travelling brought them to Boat Camp, where
the whale and canvas boats were readily f'ouiul. The latter
boat had >ix oais, and was substantially in the condition de-
scribed l>y the Mnglish .\rctic reports. The hole in the whale-
boat was very small, and otherwise it seemed, on careful e\-
umiuatiiiu, to be in excellent order.

The temperature had fallen as they travelled to -39° (-3!t.4^
C), aiul was —40"' ( —in" C.) wlien Cape Sunnier was reached
at the end of lune and a half hours' travel. The route from
J'oat Camp to Suainer was behind a series of stranded bergs,
over a snow-slope which could be made i)racticable for a loaded

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THANK GOD HAUnoU A^^U IIALI/S OUAVE.

225

sl('(l<?c only hy considcraldo work. AVoni out by the ilay's
travol tlio tent was soon pitched, but tlnnv iiiglit and nioiiiinn
were wretchedly passed, as the sleeping-ha^, saturated with
moisture from the lii^h temperature in the snow-hut, was
frozen completely solid durinj^ the day, and it re(]nired tin;
steady exertion of the four men for several hours to unroll it
and force themselves within. It was necessary to thaw o\it
this mass of ice by the heat of their bodies. As the tcnij)era-
ture had fallen to —40'^ ( —40^ C) this tedious operation was
very trying to the chilled, weary men, and their discomfort was
not lessened by the cutting, disagreeable wind experienced by
them from the exposed position in which their tent was pitched
— at the very point of Capo iSunuier.

On the morning of March inth Lieutenant Lockwood, in the
exercise of his discretion, concluded not to visit the north side
of Newman I>ay, as its passage presented no diiricnltics anil
lie was satisfied that the advance depot for future operations
could be established readily either at JJoat ( 'anij>, Cape I'revoort,
or at the mouth of the (iap valley.

The entrance of >«ewman Hay was crowded with heavy, rough
ice. which gave way to small and level floes a few miles inland.
Leaving his tent, sleeping-bag, and other articles of future bene-
fit, Lieutenant Lockwood started later across Kobeson Chamiel,
in a temperatiu'e of —41° (— 40.(;' ('.), and reached I)e])ot
'"15" in twelve and a hall' hours. The journey in places was
slow and laborious, owing to rubble and linininocky ice, and
their discomforts wci'c largely increased by the blinding snow-
storm, which for a time shut out even the nearest land.

As a result of his trip. Lieutenant Lockwood ccmcluded

that the best route to Cape Sumner was to follow his original

tracks eastward until near the Gup, and then follow tiie (Jreeii-

land coast to Cape Sumner.
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THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

Tlie outcome of this journey was particularly satisfactory. The
distance travelled was at least one hundred and thirty-five uules,
in a mean temperature, as shown by their observations, of
—42.3° (—41.3° C.) during their ten days' absence. The party
had perfect health during their entire trip, and no frost-bites
were received except slight and superficial onesoii the face while
travelling. The journey involved extraordinary hardships and
sufferings, which demanded no ordinary powers of endurance to
meet successfullv. The dogs stood the trip very well, except a
young animal, about nine months old, who was somewhat tired
at times. A net unimportant I'csult was to give Lieutenant
Lockwood and the men confidence in their equipment and in
their <.)wn jiowers, as compared with other expeditions. Tlie
iouiiicy from Thaidv (iod llarl)(>r to Cape Sumner was
made over the same route as that followed by Hall to f'ape
Brevoort, and entailed the same amount of travel. The journey
was made by Captain Hall in six marches, by Lieutenar.t Lock-
wood in three, during two of which he was driven by storm to
shelter. This comparison is not intended as any refiection on
Captain Hall, who from eight years' experience was thoroughly
conversant with sledge-work, but to point out the importance
of such field-work being dune by young men in the most active
period of life. Lieutenant Lockwood and his comrades were
about thirty years of age, wliile Captain Hall was over fifty.
The entire distance was travelli'(l on foot by the former party,
while Captain Hall, from lack of vigor and health, was obliged
to keep the sledge.

> ►

CHAPTER XIX.

ESTABLISHING DEPOTS.

(]>H. I'AVY AND SKKGEANT liKAIXARD.)

TTTIllLE Lieutenant Lockwood was yet absent at Thank
' ^ God Harbor the sun returned, so it was rendered possi-
ble to commence the establishment of depots. The small caches
near ]\Iount Parry r..id the hirge English depot at Lincoln Pay
were sufficient for the use of the party that was detailed to
travel nortli ovei- the Frozen Sea. The North GreeTiland ex-
ploring party was uiifortimate in having no nearer base of
supplies tiian Depot "P," which was separated from Greenland
by a broad channel nearly twenty miles wide.

To insure the success of work on that shore, I determined on
establishing a depot at Polaris Poat Camp near Cape Sunx-
ner. To this end Acting .Vssistant Surgeon Pavy, who had
volunteered foi- spring sledging, was sent, with Sei'geant l^ynn,
l"]skimo Jens, and dog-sledge Lilla, on March 5th, to convey
a sledge-load of provisions to as northerly a point on the Green-
land coast as could bo reached in one day's march from Cape
Heechy,

The trip to Depot " P " was comfortably made in nine hours
in a mean temperature of —36" (—37.8^ C). The sledge load
of about seven hundred pounds was dragged by seven dogs.
The severe gale which drove Lieutenant Lockwood to cam}),
after four liours' travelling, likewise detained Dr. Pavy on the

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THREE YEAKS OF AllCTIC SERVICE.

Otli in the snow-hoiise near Capo lieeeliy. The day was spent
comfortably, for, ultliongh the ontside temperature registered
— 34° ( — SG.T'^ C), yet the interior temperature was raised t()
+ 26° (-3.3° C.) by an Eskimo himp.

Ou the 7th, after ten hours' severe work in a mean tempei-a-
ture of —38° ( — 38.9° C), Dr. Pavy pitched his tent on the Hoe
in liobeson Channel, some two miles from the Greenland coast.
During thit; journey he met with a misfortune througli im-
proper packing of the sledge, which resulted in the loss from it
of a two-gallon can of alcohol and the breakage and leakage of
another. This accident also entailed a couple of hours' delay in
an unsuccessful search for the lost alcohol.

March 8th, leaving his tent standing, Dr. Pavy proceeded
with his party to the shore, two miles distant, and cached the
sujiplies in a marked break in the coast, midway between Capes
Sumner and Lupton, which was designated as the "Gap."' Tlie
cache, established behind an erratic block, was marked by a
signal flag, Avhicli Dr. Pavy says was planted " about thirty
or forty feet above the ice-foot, its bright red color forming a
striking contrast with the slab of Devonic limestone of the
neighborhood."

The trip to and from the shore had been made in a stoi-ni,
but as later in the day it abated, ihe tent was struck and the
party started homeward. They camped on a tloo three miles
east of Capo Beechy. This day's trip was very severe and un-
comfortable, as the temperature varied from — 28 ' (—33.3° C.)
to -37° (-38.3° C.) with a northeast wind.

During the night an incident occurred which showed the coii-
siderateness and kind lieart of our Eskimo Jens Edward. Ser-
geant Linn was feeling badly on entering his sleeping-bag, and
liatl fallen asleep before Jens finished his work. The Eskimo,
fearing he was sick, was unwilling to disturb him, and decided

aiLik

E.STAHLISIIING DEPOTS.

229

to sleep outside the l)ag, without covering other than liis fur
travelling suit, rather than awaken his comrade to his dis-
comfort. Although the temperature outside the tent sank to
— 41.7° (— -iO.!*" C), the ability of Jens to endure cold was so
great that he escaped with but one toe slightly frost-bitten.

The party reached Conger in good condition March 9th.
This journey, successfully made in such great cold and strong
wind, reflected credit on ])r. Pavy's energy and determination,
and that officer gave due credit for their assistance to his sub-
ordinates, Lynn and Jens.

On March 13th Sergeant Brainard, with seven men, M-as or-
dered to move the small boat Discovery, with such additional
supplies as could be hauled, to the depot to be used at or near
Ciipe Sumner. His orders recpiired him to follow the route
recommended by Ueutenant Lockwofxl, and, after securely
caching the boat in the Gap, to establish a depot of provisions
at such point as could be reached in Xewman Bay, the mouth
of the Gap valley being preferred. He was aUo to build a
snow-house, if possible, but his absence was not to exceed six
days, llis closing orders read :

" You are cautioned particularly against travelling in stormy
or windy weather, and you will frequently question your party
as to their condition, and avoid over-work. I trust your speedy
and safe return may be soon noted. You must bear in mind
that you start in a temperature of about — 40°, and at aa almost
unparalleled early season of the year."

The main points of Sergeant Brainard's journey are taken
from his lield-journal. They started on a clear, calm moriung
in a temperature of — 37.3° ( — ;>S.5° ('.). The load of over a
thousand pounds hauled very hai-d, " it dragging over the dry,
soft snow with about the same noise and resistance as would
have been experienced over a sand-bank."' In order to make

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TIIUKE YEAKS OF AllCTIC SEKVICE.

iJepot " B "' that day, Sergeant liraiuard dropped two hundred
pounds of peniniicau and moved quite rapidly t. Depot " A."
There they stopped thirteen nniuites to drink some chocolate
taken from tlie station in a ruljher bag \vrupi)ed in a buffalo
robe; the temperature then was -44° (-42.2° C). After
twelve hours' work, during which they travelled twenty-five
miles, they reached Depot " 1> " in an almost exhausted condi-
tion. Sergeant Brainard says: "On our arrival the tempera-
ture vas —53.5° ( — 47.5° C). AVe all retired early, very tired
and in a 'broken-up' condition. A few complained during the
day of terrible thirst, but there being no remedy for them they
had to endure it as best they could. Those wlio are excessive
tobacco-chewei's were the most affected."

The party left the snow-house (near ('ape Beechy) at 7.30
A.M., ^[arcli 15th, the temperature standing at —50.5° ( — 48.8°
C), although it had been down to — (ll'- ( — 51.7° C.) a few
hours previous. A bright, beautiful sunshine with calm air
made travelling quite endurable. Four hours and a half of hard
work brought them to Cape Beechy juid to the rough rubble
ice.

Here the very hard work commenced; the broken, jagged
])ieces of ice afforded a most uncertain ami precarious foothold,
while the irregularities of the surfaces rei.dered hauling doubly
difHcult. By dint of extraordinaiy exertions the sledge was got
through the rubble to a paheocrystic Hoe, but the rough Avork
necessitated the relashing of the boat on the sledge. This was
trying \vork, not so much for the active handy men, who hauled
and pulled at the lashings and so kept warm despite a tempera-
ture of —43.5° ( — 41. '.•° C), but to the unemployed, who
danced around shivering in desperate efforts to keej) their
clothes, damp with moisture, from freezing to the rigidity of
brass. As they moved on, the uneven, rolling surface of the

ESTABLISHING DEPOTS.

231

floe was covered with a light covering of snow, just deep ciiougli
to vequirc tlie men to plongli their way and t(j demand eveiy
atom ot" their strength to pidl the sledge through it. Occasion-
ally a bare descending bit of ice came, just enough in extent to
force the ex'.austed men for a few yards into an accelerated
pace and give emphasis to the jerk which, as snow came to
clog the runners, a moment later brought all np standing. After
nearly nine hours of such travel, Sergeant Brainard concluded
that the condition of the men was such as to render campi?ig
necessary, as continued pulling without food or drink in such
low tenjperatures had quite exhausted them. The temperature,
then at —13.5° (-• H.i)*-^ C), had not been above -4(»° (-4o^
C.) during the march.

An order to camp is obeyed with alacrity, not tliat it is a
comfortable or pleasant thing to do, but because work of any
character is preferable to standing quietly around. The only
continued comfort for an Ai'ctic sletlger is while he is engaged
in the drag-ropes hauling a fair luad at a moderate pace over a
level bit of ice.

With skilled hands tin sltdge is rapidly unlashod, and while
the main party sets up the tent *he evening cook is searching
out a blue-topped berg, from whicli to get his ice for tea and
stew. The tent is well pitched on a j^roper ssito, wliicli ])refera-
bly is a level snow-covered bit of lloe, with a lai'ge bei-g near to
the windward to break the force of any sudden gale. If snow
cannot be found suited for the site of the t'Mit, it is best that
snow be brought and strewed within it. This not only gives a
soft bed, but a conqwratively warm one, for ice is almost invari-
ably colder than snow.

The rubber tent-cloth spread, the sleeping-bags are brought
in and laid down, but to unroll them is a labor of love demand-
ing the strength of a Hercules. The moisture whicli exhaled

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233

TIIKEE YEARS OK AUCTIC SEUVICE.

the iiiglit before from the body, the fulling spicuhv of snow
forniod that morning in the tent, the lingering vapor from the
stew, uiul the drops of spilled tea have all insidiously worked
their way deep into the tangled hair, and, turning to ice, have
bound fast the tightly rolled buffalo bags. Xow they are more
like coils of rolled sheet-iron than the supple well-tanned skins
they arc supposed to be. P>y great e.xertions they are finally
forced apart, and tl'e wise sledge traveller, be Ids wisdom from
book or experience, seeks them at the earliest moment.

The work of erecting the tent and opening the bags has
necessitated the use of the bare hands in a measure^ and han-
dling these articles, colder than frozen mercury, is like handling
hot iron which burns and cracks men's fingers and hands. The
comparatively light work, too, lias checked tlic perspiration, and
with stiffening clothing and half-fro/en fingers the travellers,
other than the cook and conmiissary sergeant, sit down ; and,
carefully brushing the snow from their garments, loosen the
Lishings and take off overalls and foot-gear. They systenuitically
. arrange these in the shape in which they can easiest don them,
for in five minutes after they are frozen solid. The feet are
sti'ipped bare and a pair of fresh socks, warm from the man's
breast, arc put on anil covered at once with a jiair of large dog-
skin or sheep-skin sleeping-socks. Crawling into their bag
tlieh" chilled lindis gradually thaw out the frozen skin, and
later they acquire warmth when hot tea and stew come to
them.

The cook Dieanwliilo has obtained his ice, both for morning
and evening meal, and has received from the sergeant the care-
fully measured allowance of alcohol, which he takes with a dubi-
ous shako (tf the head, as he sees how small the (piantity and
how nnich work it is expected to do. His ice cut too coarsely
oi- mixed with too much snow, and the wicks half an inch too

KSTABLISlIINd DEPOTS.

333

liigh or too low, ami tlio result is a stew niixed with ice, or tea
just steaming and uncooked.

Tlie rations, arranged at the station, arc served out with tlio
same careful exactness. An ounce too much to-day means
shortage to-morrow. The cooking apparatus carefully placed
level on a hoard, he watches it with the utmost caution, for the
arrangement is sucli that carelessness, or perhaps the sudden
movement of a man in tlic bag, may cause a pot to tip and the
])recious allowance, or a part at least, to be lost. An hour is a
moderate time in which to cook tlic tea, and as the frozen,
wretched cook watches it he realizes too keenly the truth of the
adage, " 7V watched pot never boils."

if he has inexperienced comrades they sit up and watch with
or aid him, some through a feeling that they must bear a hand,
and others because they deem it unbclitting soldiers that their
meals should be served them in their beds. Tliev do not realize,
until taught by bitter experience, that it is best that all this
hardship and suffering should be avoided by all save the cook,
and the strength of tlie party thus be conserved.

The pot finally boils, and instantly it is served to the weary
men ; some of whom, overcome l)y the exhausting labors of tlie
day, have dropped (^ff into a sleep, and are doubtful whether to
be vexed or pleased tliat they are recalled to a sense of cold and
weariness. The steaming tea aiul stew are served, the clouds of
vapor change to falling snow; the weary men, refreshed by their
meal, crawl down in their bags, to be followed by the cook as
soon as he can arrange his lamp and pot and tie up the tent
secui-ely.

The night, or rather the hours set for sleep, passes slowly.
Crowded two or three into one bag, all uuist be awakened and
turn together whenever cramp or cold renders one so uncomfort-
able that he nuist change his position. Stiffness, aches, rheu-

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234

TIIIJKK YKAR;^ OK Aliri'IC SKUVICK.

niatic pains, cold, and crainps fall to every one's lot to a greater
or less extent, ^'ooody is sorry, save the cook, when the otHccr
calls that unfortunate ])erson, whose only comfort is the reflec-
tion that his service passes with that meal, as the cooking is
done in turn.

In the morning the same routine is gone through with, modi-
lied at times by some depraved article of footgear, which, frozen
into metal-like hardness, will not l)e coaxed or forced on to the
foot until it has been taken literally to one's heart and thawed
out by the heat of the body. The .slowness with which the
party breaks camp makes everybody wretched and ill-humored
until a sliort hour's march lias thawed travelling gear and hu-
man nature into tractable mood.

With the temperature 75° (—40.7° C.) or more below the
freezing point ot" water, it seems to me sin-prising even now that
men can ever do and endure such work and exposure. Only
thoso of perfect health, iron constitution, and nuirked deter-
mination are capable of continued work under such coiulitions.
This account of a march and camp is a fair description (under-
drawn if anything) of the exjieriences of a sledging party fa-
vored by title weather and ordinary travel. AVhen storm and
snow come to blind, wet, and but't'et the wretched travellers,
their miseries cannot be described in words. Such conditions
as above must be imagined as the common experience of all
-Aretie travellers until zero temperatures ( — ]7.'S'(".) come with
May, bringing other discomforts not much less serious.

On the morning of j\[arch lllth, the temperature, which had
fallen during the night to —H° (-42.2° C), had risen to -40°
(—40° C), but a brisk northeast wind rendered travel danger-
ous. At 9 A.M., howevei', the wind subsided somewhat, and
Sergeant Brainard decided to start. His journal says: "Last
night Schneider was very lame, aiid com])lained of rheumatic

KSTAULISIIINO DEPOTS.

235

pains and inability to sleep. He was a very indifferent traveller
during the entire day. This morning he complains bitterly
of the condition of his legs, and is scarcely able to walk about
the tent. His condition is so nnich worse that I consider it tlio
most prudent course to send him back to Depot ' 1],' accom-
panied by Biederbick, who is a capital nurse."

Owing to diminished force, about two hundred pounds were
left at this camp, including a day's rations for the return jour-
ney. Light drifting snow obliged them to encamj) about five
miles from the (ireeidand coast. Sergeant I»rainard says ;
" Wc fortunately travelled all day over the same pahvocrystic
Hoe as yesterday. Our tent is now pitched in a sheltered
position, which screens us from the heavily drifting snow, but
does not help us with n^gard to our greatest foe, — the low
temperature, which, though at one time as high as —33^
(-35.r C), has fallen again to -od° (-30.4° C.)."

The morning of the Tth was clear and calm, with a minimum
of -43' (-41.7° C). Says Sergeant Brainard, " Seeing that it
is impossible to reach Xewman Bay within the time allotted nie,
owing to the greatly reduced sti-ength of the sledge-party and
the increasing roughness of the ice, I decided to leav our tent
standing, and to transport the boat and supplies to Depot ' E,'
established by Dr. Pavy a few days before in the (iap. That
done he would return to Fort Conger."

A little over four hours' travel brought them to the cache.
Brainard continues : " ^V^i placed the boat beside a huge rock and
fastened her down securely with boxes, rocks, etc., first placing
hard bread, medical knapsack, etc., mulcr her to jirevent them
from being blown away. We began the excavation of snow-
house, but the increasing wind compelled us to abandon the work
and seek our own safet}'." They were none too soon, for '* the
storm meanwhile increasing in violence obliterated entirclv our

l:! J

> VM

r ' I

!Jl

lit

236

TIIUKK YKATIS OK AUCTIO SEliVICK.

trail at times, luul prevented us from Beeiiig more tlian a few yards
ill iidvaiice. Tin; wind was fortunately at our backs, but frecjuent
frostd)ites of nt)ses ami cbeoks were experienced before we
readied the tent, in an exhausted state, after nearly eiyht hours'
absence. r».."*(> i-.m.," says the lield-journal, "we arc now sit-
tiiii; in our sU'ej>iiiii-ba<?s, with all slee[)iii<:;->;var(in, receivin<jliot
chdculate from the cook. We congratulate ourselves on reaching
the tent as we did, for the wind has increased to a gale, and the
air is so full of drifting snow that objects a hundred yards distant
cannot bo distinguished. St. Patrick was lionored this evening
by a few songs from 'The AVild Irishman.'" .Singing songs
when sheltered only by a light tent from a drifting gale and a
temperature lower than — 4<>° (—40° C) was a fair sample of
the indomitable spirit and unvarying cheerfulness of the men
of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition.

On ^Farch IStli, the morning temperature of —43.2° (-41.8°
C.) rose before starting liomewards to —41° ( — 4U.(!° C).
After six liours' travel camp was made, in order that a few hours'
work shoulil be devoted to collecting at that point some scat-
tered stores near by. The drifting snow of the preceding day
had forced itself into their travelling-gear, and Sergeant Urain-
ard says: "Our buffalo sleeping-bags are so badly frozen tliat
at this camp the men were compelled to thaw themselves into
them or go without sleep. They chose the former evil without
giving it nnich thought, and passed a most wretched night in
consequence.'' The next day they i-eached Depot " J>," where
Schneider and IJeiderbiek were found in good condition. On
the 2<>th they returtied to Fort Conger thoroughly worn out,
but in excellent spirits.

This sledge journey was a remarkable one, and exhibited not
only Sergeant Urainard's executive ability and good judgment
in a strong light, but also proved the mettle and strength of the

estahlisiiino depots.

2:i7

general part}-. This joimioy involved an average daily marcli
of about Hcventceii miles for six successive days in a mean tem-
perature of —-1:1° (-40.0" C.). Notwithstanding the inability
of one man to withstand tlie hard work in such extreme cold,
the trip was successful ; and all, including Schneider, returned
well, though troubled with slight frost-bites.

Till' lowest mean temperature experienced by !^[cCllntocl< in
his ten sledge journeys was — i>0°(— Si.-t" (•.), when in twenty-
five days he made, with a dog-team, tin- satne average distance
as this party, and at a correspondingly early time of the year.

""1

Hi jJ ( I'lio Bellows VaileyJ.

[June, IbSJ.)

!i<^

i i

1 ;

9 '

;!f

•- \u

II <

1^1

;. 1

("llAl'TEU XX.

NOUTHWAKD OVEli THE FUOZEN SEA.

(i)i:. i'avy's xoutiikkn .ioikmoy.)

4 FEW (lays later Dr. Pavy was sent northward in an at-
tempt to reach laud to the northward of Cape Joseph
Henry. From his experience gained along the Grinnell Land
coast the preceding autumn, he was convinced that lie would be
able to proceed a long distance northward over the I*olar ( )eean,
and was confident that land would eventually be discovered in
that direction. While doubtful of the existence of land to the
southward of the eighty-lifth parallel, I considered it important
that no chance of geographical success should be neglected, and
consequently assigiu'd one of my dog-teams to Dr. ]*avy for this
special work, lie was given the services of Sergeant Ilice, the
]ihotographer of the expedition, who had also volunteered for
the trip, and Eskimo Jens Edward. These two men, selected
by Dr. Favy as his assistants, were gifted with remarkable
physical powers and such aptitude of resource as particularly
fitted them for the work.

The most important clauses of my instructions to Dr. Pavy
read : " The details of your journey and. the route to be followed
northward from Lincoln IJay are left to your judgment and
arrangement. I deem it important, however, to invite your
especial attention to the route across Feilden Peninsula and
James lioss Hay to Cape llecla. AV'hile overland travel ia

NORTIIWAUD OVEIl THE FROZEX SKA.

2:39

usually objectiouable, the experiences of the Englibli expeditiun,
1S75-70, as well us that ot your own journeys, indicate that
travelling is thus facilitated when the partv can avuid anv con-
siderable distance of the polar pack. . . . 4th. You are to
bear in mind that in no instance must your party be separated ;
that the exact location of depots must he nuide known to each
member ; that no advance nnist he made beyond such time as,
on full allowance, f>ne-lialf of your provisions have been con-
sumed ; and that in case of any considerable movement of the
ice, or on the appearance of any lanes uf water, you must at
once seek the main-land. . . . (ith. In case no land is
reached, one day must be devoted at your most northerly point
to determiniiii;' your position with the <;reatest care, and in ob-
taining deta'led information as to the depth of the sea, the
temperature of the water, the tidal currents, the thickness of
the new ice, and any other available data. Whenever you are
obliged to rest your team a day, similar observations should be
!nade. . . . Hth. A careful lookout will be kept for drift-
wood, and if any fragments that could possibly have belonged
to a ship be noted, it must bo brought to the station . .
for identitication. It is possible that some tidings of the .lean-
nette may thus be obtained. In accordance with vour wishes,
no special anxiety will l)e felt for your party until June 1st.
Trusting that your eai'ues' enthusiasm for polar e\pl(»ration,
united to your practical experience, . . . will insure all
possible success, and wishing beyond all your safe retuiii, 1
am, etc.''

The party left on ISIarch l!)tli with a team of excellent dogs.
It seemed to me, then, an excellent o])portunity of ascertaining
the ca])abilities of a dog-team, by noting the constant weights
of the sledge, the weight of the dogs on going and retuiiiing,
and the foo(l issued to them tlaiiy. Thronuh a mi.-understand-

7 1

240

THREE YEAH> OF AIICTIC SERVICE.

1 !i

• '

ing of my instructions the dogs were not weighed after return-
ing, nor were tlie constant weiglits determined.

Dr. Pavy's team had been used fortlio purpose of facilitating

Or P.^n J Pdity btaiting North, Mji,.n 19, ,a3i.
[Frciit pliiiUiijiiiiiIi hi/ Sit'jI. AVic.l

Lieutenant Lock wood's work un tlie North Greenland coast, and
to assist this section Sergeant Jewell was in turn detached, with
the dog-sledge Antoinette, driven by Eskimo Christiansen, which
was to serve as a sup[>ortiug sledge as far as Lincoln IJay, Mhere

NORTHWAKD OVKIt THE FROZEX SEA.

241

tho remains of the English depot of 1875 served as a base for
Dr. J'avy's subsequent operations. Sergeant flewell, on bis re-
turn, was to bring south to l^epot " ]> " two hundred pounds of
Australian beef and certain small stores.

In order that Sergeant Jewell might carry as large a load as
possible, he was provided with no tent, but was directed to
avail himself at Depot " B " of the snow-house, and while jour-
neying from that point to Lincoln Day and return he was to
sheltci* himself by snow-house or " dug-out."

The party left in a temperature of —25° (—31.7° C), and
tlie trip northward \\as comfortably made in about that mean
temperature, although while at Depot " 15 " a temperature of
—41° (—10.0'' C.) was recorded. From C'ape iJeechy to the
north side of AVrangel JJay the ice was largely rubble and
rough hummocks, which made progress slow and tedious, and
necessitated three days' journey where two had been estimated.

Sergeant Jewell left Lincoln I'ay for Depot "B" on the
23d, having been furnished with but one hundred and sixty-four
pounds of beef instead t)f two hundred as ordered in writing.
Ilis journey southward was maile under very trying conditions
and in very low temperatures. On leaving Lincoln Bay the
temperature stood at about —40° (—40.0° (A), but fell steadily
during the day, and registered —53° (— 17.2" i\) during the
night, lie was fortunate in iinding large snow-drifts just south
of AVrangel Bay, where be passed a tolerably comfortable night
in a snow-hut. The following day, ti'avelling in temperatures
which ranged from -4.5° (-42.8° C.) to -4U° (-45° C), he
reached Depot " 15," where orders had been sent him to carry
out instructions I'lMin Lieutenant Lockwood regarding the trans-
portation of stores from Depot " J> " to the Greenland coast.

From March 25th to 30th Sergeant Jewell, assisted for a

portion of the t'me by Private Ellis, was engaged with his
10

r<'i

■f !

\ 'M

.1!

1 I

( ;

I ,i

I P

TIII'wEE YKARS OF ARCTIC SERVIf

slcnls'e in accnniulatiiii;; stores on the Ciroeiiland coast. Tliere
was no (lay on which tiie tenijjcrature did not fall as low as
—4:(f (-40° C), and on four days -50° (-45.0° C.) and
— 51^ (— 40.1° C.) were recorded. The mean temperature in
which this woi-k was done was about —40° ( — 40° C).

On ]\rai'ch 27th Sergeant Jewell was deprived of the services of
Private Ellis, who, when sent to aid him from the home station,
to Depot" ]>," had unfortunately wet his feet from tidal overflow
during the journey. Not exercising the proper precaution c'"
changing his foot-gear, Ellis' imprudence resulted in his being
seriously, though superlicially, fi'ost-bitton. ]S'otwithstanding
his condition, lie made a journey, j\Iarch 25th and 20th, from
Depot " B " to the Greenland coast and back, and then, in oi'der
not to interfere with the work, in>isted on ISei'geant Jewell per-
mitting him to return to the station alone. Private Ellis showed
remarkable fortitude and determination diu'ing the whole affair,
which was especially creditable to him.

On the 30th, the barometer having fallen below 29.00 and
fearing a violent storm. Sergeant Jewell prudently concluded it
best to return to the station, rather than to venture another trip
to the (Ireenland coast.

In the performance of this extraordinary work Sergeant
Jewell showed an endurance and fortitude which surprised
many, as his pliysicpie was but medium, lie justified every
confidence placed in his faithfulness, energy, and judgment
then and afterward, lie crossed llobeson Channel six times
during March, and ten times during his service — more frequent-
ly than any other member of the expedition, except Eskimo
Christiansen.

In connection with his own trip to Lincoln Bay. Dr. Pavy
reported that north of Cape Beechy the ice-foot l)ecanie so
encumbered with grounded floe-bergs that his i)arty was com-

NORTHWARD OVER THE FROZEN SEA.

243

pellcd to take to the floe-ice, iiotwithstaiuliiig its difficult char-
acter. On leaving the shore they passed footprints of recent
origin, made l)y a well-grown bear who was travelling south.

Dr. Pavy passed his cache in Wrangel Bay without visiting
it, l)ut proceeded to the depot near Mount Parry, on reaching
which tha tracks of the bear were again fallen in with. The
bear had evidently stopjjed for lunch, and had shown discrim-
ination in his selection of the food. The sacks of bread had
been torn open, and the bags torn into shreds, but the bread
was left untasted. The pemmican covering had been stripped
off, and about two-thirds of it (some seventy pounds in (piantity)
had been eaten.

After Sergeant Jewell left, on the '2od. a comfortable snow-
house was built, to serve as their headcpiartcrs until tiie last
load of provisions to be used in the northern trip had been car-
ried beyond Ulack Capo.

.\t this camp Old Sneak — one of the team — disphiyed his
faculty for avoiding work. When in harness he did his duty,
for he well knew that Jens' keen eye was on him, and that his
slackened trace would be followed by the driver's lash, thrown
with such force and precision as to make the thick fur fly from
any selected spot. When the food had been given out Sneak
was on hand, as always on sinnlar occasions, but the loaded
sledge with the team in harness waited on him alone. A
thorough search failed to lind him, and fearing that some article
left behind in the snow-hut might suffer from him, Jens en-
tered the house to secure the food, and there found the truant
(piietly awaiting their departure.

On March 24th, having perfected his arrangements. Dr.
Pavy started north, but a southeast breeze with a temperature
of —36.5° ( — 38.1° C.) drove the party to camp near Cape
Union, where they were storm-stayed for twent^'-two hours.

'«

'•

'! I

If : '

If"

244

tiikp:e yeaks of auctic seuvice.

Dr. Pavy expressed the opinion, that in the vicinity of Cape
Union, owing to the escarpment of the cliffs, the coast could
never he practicable for fall travelling, as in places dogs could
not travel, and in others the conditions were such as to be im-
practicable even for men. Three times in one day his party
was driven from the ice-foot, and once was compelled to lower
the sledge by the dog-traces over a high and perpendicular ice-
foot. Though the ice was level in most places, yet a thin crust
of snow, mixed with the salty efflorescence from the sea-ice, im-
paired the progress of the party by the extreme friction it caused
the sledges.

At 3 P.M. of the Sath the temperature moderated to —27°
( — o2.S° C), and enabled them to resume their journey, but the
ice was found exceedingly broken and uneven, and in one place
for a hundred yards the sledge and load had to be transported
by hand.

In connection with this day's journey Dr. Pavy says : '• I
will farther say, that to my belief the Eskimo are indis-
pensable for extended sledge journeys. Their experience in
managing dogs, and the apparent facility with which they can
drive at once over difficulties whei'e the best of their inexperi-
enced Caucasian pupils will fail or labor for long hours, put the
usefulness of their services out of the (question. Moreover,
their endurance to cold will allow them to perform the many
duties of a driver with bare hands, and in half of the time that
it would take to freeze ours. The histoi-y of Aictic work, from
Wrangel to this day, will bear witness to the fact that all dog-
eledgiug expeditions that lune used natives as drivers, or per-
haps their best substitutes (I mean men trained foryears'to the
work), have succeeded with comparative ease. I think that Sir
George Xares, on his liomeward journey, must have retiected
more fully on the usefulness of dogs and their drivers."

■u

i i

NORTHWARD OVER TJIK FKOZKN SEA.

245

I can scarcely concur in the ideas tluis ]int forward by Dr.
Pavy in Ins official report. My opinion in this respect was also
shared ])y Lieutenant Lockwood and Serjeant IJrainard, who
made the only successful explorations with dog-sledgcs during
our two years' services. The utility of the Eskimo dog as an
Arctic draught animal is beyond doubt ; an opinion in which I
am sure Sir George Xares and his experienced officers will
heartily concui'. But when it is stated that the Eskimo is indis-
pensable for extended sledge journeys, I nuist thoroughly dissent.
The valuable Arctic papers for the expedition of 1875 contain
the upinion of l>arou von Wrangel "On the best means of
reaching the Pole," in which he advocates the employment of dogs
" and active and courageous drivers.'' The note attached to that
})aper, whether Wr.angers or the accomplished editor's, well
says that success would be doubtful with Eskimo or Tchouktschi
drivers — men without courage or activity. Our Eskimo drivers
could not be excelled in their race for bravery, energy, and activ-
ity, but Lockwood and Brainard would never have reached their
farthest point had they depended on the courage and activity of
their dog-driver, whom it was needful to incite to continued ex-
ertions. This is no reflection upon the courage of these men,
who are unable to appreciate the object of these journeys, and
Avho are necessarily depressed on outward marches owing to the
diminishing supply of food, which to them forbodes hardships
and sufferings, if not dangers.

The most perilous and remarkable sledge journeys in con-
nection with the British expedition of 1875 and 1876 were
made without the aid or assistance of Eskimo drivers. At
the very point where Dr. .Pavy's party was then struggling,
and under similar unfavorable ice conditions, was made the
memorable sledge journey, March 12 to 15, 1876, in which those
heroic officers, Lieutenants lia^vson and Egerton, R.X., dis-

itadHHiii

' t

, '

f
1

THIJEE YEARS OF ATICTIC SERVICE.

played such fortitude, endurance, and unseltisli energy in their
efforts to save the life of a Danish dog driver from the (Jreen-
land settlements. These voung English otticers gave of their heat
and life to save this denizen of an Arctic coast. Later the same
officers, with no Eskimo, but with I'riti.sh sailors, made success-
fully, in temperatures as low as —42° ( — 41.1° C), the trip from
Floeherg Beach to Discovery Harbor and back in ten sledging
days — journeys which compare favorably with our own succe.^^s-
ful work.

In our own expedition the successful raising, breaking, and
training for field services of our Eskimo dogs born at ('onger
were due to the intelligent and zealous efforts of Private
Schneider, who, after an experience of several months, drove
nearly as well as an Eskimo.

The ability of the Eskimo to endure privation and hardships
has been greatly overrated. Successful resistance to conditions of
cold and privation by men is not so much a matter of race and
original habitat, but depends to a greater extent than is usually
acknowledged upon the moral force and mental determination of
the individual. The subseciuent experience at Cape Sabine in
the case of Eskimo and Caucasian, with the same food and in
pursuit of the same object — game or relief for the party —
instances this. In the trip toward Littleton Island Sergeant
llice returned in fair physical condition, while Eskimo Jens was
completely exhausted. The same relative difference in their
condition was noted between Sergeant Long and Eskimo Chris-
tiansen on their return from the unsuccessful hunt for game in
Alexandra Harbor. Another illustrative instance between Rice
and Jens occurred in this very trip of Dr. Pavy's.

The 20th to 2Sth were occuiMod in the moving of a second
load from Lincoln Bay to Black Cape, the party experiencing
temperatures from -1 1.-^^ (-24.2° C.) to -44 ' (-42.2° C), and

Wm^l

-- _'*»-"V>»-'

NORTH WARD OVER THE FROZEX SEA.

247

on the 2!>th reiiclied Lincoln Buy iigain. The first glaze on tiio
snow from the heat of the sun was noted on the :i.Sth, the high-
est temperature noted having been —11.5' (24.2° C), and on
the 21>th the party discarded their ju7nj)erii as too warm while
travelling. On Marcli 30th the temperature, which had stood at
-52° (-40.7° C.) the previous niglit, rose to -8.5° (-22.5° C).
As a severe storm with drifting snow prevailed, the party re-
mained comfortably in the lint during the day, improving the
delay by drying and repairing their boots an<l clothing.

On the evening of ]\Iarch 31st the party, in a temperature of
-;]S.8° (-3!».3° C), left Lincoln P.ay with its last load north-
ward, and when within a short distance of Cape Union the
right runner of the sledije broke lon<>itudinallv throuirh the
lashing holes. ISergeant Rice offered to return to Conger
for a new runner, and started at once, accompanied by
Eskimo -lens ; the temperature then being —42° (—41.1° C).
They took a small spirit-lamp to molt ice with, a small quantity
of preserved meat and chocolate for a lunch, and also the steel
shoe of the runner. The journey was made to Depot " IJ,"
about four miles south of Cape Leechy, in one march. Be-
tween the cape and dc\M)t Rice says that -lens, for whom he
had repeatedly stopped, was so exhausted that, despite all per-
suasion, he was oliliged to stop within a few hundred yards of
the depot, and he reached that point fifteen mimites after
Eice's arrival. iSergeant Rice modestly said; " Doubtless Jens'
exhaustion was due to the greater exertions he made, and worry
he had undergone in getting the dogs, with broken sledge, back
to Lincoln l»ay, for I am sure that his powers of endurance are
greater tliau my own." The march from Lincoln J'ay to
" nineteen hours, and involved at least

Depot

miles'' travelling, aTid possibly farther, owing to the extremely
tortuous path they wei-e obliged to pursue. The party reached

; (

liiii

■' I

il!

248

THUKE YEAIIS OF AUCTIC SEUVKM:.

Conger on the Sd, at 7 a.m., iuul, heiiig furnislied with a new
I'unuer, loft on t]M' 4tli.

The presence of Lieuteimnt T-ockwood enabled me to send
the runner to Cape lleechy, relievinjf llico and Jens thus far,
but beyond that point tliey were oblij^od to carry it. In return-
ini;;, the trip was made from Dejiot " 15 " to Lincoln Uay in nine-
teen liours, they following the inside route by the way of Wran-
gel l>ay, where the depot of provisions left the previous aiituinn
was foinul in good condition, unvisited by the bear.

l)r. Tavy, during tlic absence of llico and Jens, travelled a
sliort distance inland over the high hills to the westward of
Lincoln J'ay, in the hopes of discovering whether an inland
route could not be found which would allow a party to travel at
any time from AVrangel IJay to Floeberg l>each.

Dr. l*avy says : " At the highest point reached, which I esti-
niatetl to be about two thousand feet, 1 had a magnificent view,
especially overland. From the head of Lincoln Bay several
valleys could be seen, which, succeeding to each other, ajipeared
to load toward AV'rangel IJay. Li another direction, northeast, I
could distinctly see a succession of sloj)ing hills cut with ravines
and valleys. 1 think it is possible to reach the coast at the
entrance of some <.>f the lunnerous openuigs near Floeberg
Beach."' Hettveen the United States range and a lower chain
of mountains nearer to the coast. Dr. Pavy thought it probable
that along and extensive valley existed trending from the north-
east to the southwest.

Lincoln Day was finally left on the evening of April Gth, the
party selecting night travel, as was generally reconnneiuled to
field parties. High wiiuls drove them to camp part of the 7th
and until the evening of the Nth, when on starting, " the wind,"
Dr. Pavy says, " was blowing such a gale that in places, over
good ice glazed by snow, it pushed the sledge faster than the

Mm I

NOUTIIWAIU) OVKU THK I'UOZKN SEA.

240

dogs could run

Oil this diiy the teniiteniture rose to +4.8°
( — 15.2° C), being the winic day on wliicli the teuipeniture was
first observed to be iibove zero at the home station.

The party was dehiyed by high winds on the lotli, M-hifh
drove tliem to cam]), and on the following day the rough and
diflicult ice obliged them to move their load by hand nearly a
thousand yards. Tlie temperature was so mild on the 10th that
llice and Jens slept out-of-doors, though Dr. i'avy occupied tlio
snow-house.

The Alert winter-quarters were reached on April Jith. ( )f the
approach J)r. Pavy says : " A heavy lead-colored sky, contrast-
ing fearfully with the whiteness of the freshly drifted snow,
lent to the surrounding landscape a gloomy appearance. From
a distance we could see a large cairn on top of the Alert's look-
out, and lower, on the brow ol' a smaller hill, some dark object,
which at first wo took for a cache, but was soon found to be the
tomb of Petersen. ]jeneath the large stone that covers the re-
mains of the Danish inter])reter a hare had taken up his resi-
dence, strangely associating the fact of his presence with the
words of the epitaph engraved on a copper j)late at the head
of the tondj, *■ Uo shall wash mo, and I shall boas white as

snow

t ' "

From the lookout hill at the Alert (piarters, as far as could be
seen, the pack consisted of ci'owded masses of rough and hum-
mocky ice similar to that described by the ollicers of the Alert.
Dr. Pavy was of the opinion that the ice in tluit neighborhood
had broken up and that the coast-water bad been possibly navi-
gable the preceding autunm, l)ut at great risk and danger.

lieferring to the grounded bergs, whicli in 1875-7(5 pro-
tected the Alert from the destructive pressure of the polar
pack, he says : '' This spring no floe-berg could be seen around
the place where the Alert must have dropped her anchor in

\irv^

■i

IT)!)

TIIKKK YKAIW OI' AU(!Trc HEIJVICK.

ls7r>. Js'o signs of piilu'oervrttie ict! wcro obsorvcd closer tlian
about ii mile and a liall" lioiii tlio coast."

The temperature tiien was above zen* (— IT.S*^ C), and i'nr
them, lieavily clutlied, tlie weather was so warm that wht.i
travelling, even in shirt-sleeves, they perspired Ireely.

Iloferriiig to the cairn at the Aleit winter-tpiarters. Dr. Pavy
says: *' About live feet from the grouiul a large iron cylinder,
sealed probably by the engineers of the ship, and in which are
secured the docimients of the Dritish expedition, is so iirmly
held by an enormous weight of stones that it would Ije neces-
sary to tear down half of the monument to get at its contents.
. . . Wo contented ourselves with leaving our record in an
air-tight rubber match-box, well secured with heavy rocks by the
side of the English documents." Tlic party were impressed by
the thick body of snow which coveird the suri'ounding country,
in marked contrast to the ground in the vicinity of Conger
which was scarcely concealed. The signal flagstaff, with at-
tached halliards, at Cape Sheridan, M-as still standing in as firm
a condition as when erected in lS7r>.

The danger of travelling along that coast w.as instanced by
the fact that on returning to IMack Cape for a second load of
stones, not only were the provisions scattered around several
hundred vards from the point where tliev were cached, but the
ice-foot was covere<l witli many stones which had fallen from
the cliffs during a violent gale, and on the place formerly occu-
]iied bv their tent several heavv blocks of slate were lvin<j.
Dr. I'avy says: " l-'rom Cape Tnion \o Floeberg Beach parties
travelling diu'ing the windy days are continually exposed to the
fall of stones from the ragged and disintegrating tops."

The ice contimied as a palixH)erystic pack from Cape Sheridan
to Ilarley Spit, and thence to View Point, so that following a
direct course they found gixxl travel generally, tlniui:li deep

NOKTIIWAIM) OVER TIIK FROZEN SEA.

9fil

tiiiuw sut'toiiod l)y tlio film at times impeded their progress.
View Point was reached on the morniiiu; of the 15th, and J)r.
Pavy says ho was then " more fully supplicid (uitli stores) than I
had expected to bo wlicn leaving Fort Conger." The i)arty for
a coiiplc) of (hiys wore favored with cahn, beautiful weather and
liigli temperatures. At Coniciil Hill, on the KUh, many traces
of niusk-o.xen, and fi(;.sh tiacks of the lenmiing, j)tarmigan,
Iniri', and fox were observed.

From a high hill in !''eilden Peninsula the ice in James Ross
Pay was seen to be in good condition, ^fy instructions to cross
Feilden PeninsiUa not being maiuiatory. Dr. Pavy decided, on
account of the bare ground in some places and soft snow in
others, to follow the const to Cape Joseph IJcmy. This decision,
tliough it seemed wise at the time, eventually proved fatal to
the success of the journey, as had .lames lloss Day been crossed,
and the land <jintted in the vicinity of Cape Ilecla, six miles
north of I lem'y, the party would probably have avoided their
polar drift, which resulted in the loss of the greater part of their
stores and the complete abandonment of their expedition.

These remarks are made not to reflect on l.)r. I'avy's judg-
ment, which doubtless caused him to select the route a])parently
the easiest, but to emphasize the great importance of following,
as far as practicable, a coast line, so that the broken and dis-
torted ice of the Polar Sea may be avoided as long as possible.
My opinion entertained then still holds, that to the northward
of Capes Ilecla, (\)hmd)ia. or 'Slay the ice of the Polar Sea is
not as rough and broken as in the entrance to Robeson Channel
between Capes Joseph Henry and Pryant. Dr. Pavy remarks
of the country near View Point, that it ])resented numerous
signs of animal life, and more abundant vegetation than in any
other place seen by him iu)rtli of Discovery Harbor.

Level new ice affoi'dcd excellent travel from Wvw Point to

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TJIREE TEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

the ncighborliood of Cape Joseph Henry. The character of the
pakeocrystic ice from llarley Spit to Conical Hill was set forth
as consisting of : " Circular, nearly level floes of small dimension,
the largest perhaps a mile and a half in extent, at the edges of
which was a fringe of bergs and hummocks. Between them
were ditches or crevices from live to fifty yards wide, whicli
must have been at some time filled with voung ice. These
hollows, origiiuilly from three to seven feet deep, were now
shallow, and in i>laccs nearly tilled with a mixture of fresh-
water ice and frozen snow." Tliese Hoes showed the powerful
influence of the polar sun for several sunnners, and " in every
place where the recently fallen snow had blown off the ice was
fresh and good for cookinc;."

Near Cape Joseph Henry the new ice showed that when the
sea closed the preceding autumn a belt of open water, free from
heavy ice and at least two miles in width, extended along that
coast. To the northward of Cape Joseph Homy, however, it
decreased in width, and ran along the coast to the westward
toward Cape Columbia as a very narrow strip.

During the IStli and 10th of April a severe storm prevailed,
which courined them to their tent, the temperature varying
from -5.5° ^-20.8" C.) to -12^ (-24.4° C.). There 's but
little doubt that this storm had a marked iiiHuence in the
disintegration of the polar pack which occurred a few days
after.

During the 20th and 21st the party succeeded in transporting
their stores to a point on the polar pack about four miles north
of Cape Joseph Henry, but were forced to desist from their
work by a violent storm from the south-southeast on the 21st,
which contimied as a severe gale during the night, the wind
being estinuited at forty miles from tlie southeast.

At that point they had, from a high tloeberg, an excellent view

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NORTinVAltD OVER THE FROZEN SEA.

263

of the polar pack, the appearance of which was discouraging in the
extreme. "East of the lino of massive clifiS of Cape Joseph
lleniy the Pohir Sea was of such rough appearance that no sledge,
even lightly loaded, could have made any progress over its dis-
ordered suifacc. It was nothing but an inextricable maze of huge
bergs and enormous hummocks, piled up in a similar manner
as when travelled over by Commander Markham. Directly
north of Cape Henry and a certain distance from us, perhaps
three or four miles, the confusion of the ice was the same, dis-
couraging in its compactness. To the northeast this line of
thick-ribbed ice " also prevailed, but to the northwest and due
north of Cape Ilecla seemed to bo of a less ponderous charac-
ter." Indeed, the conditions were so favorable that the route in
that direction was determined on ; as, " besides the advantage of
stumbling over a less dense pack, we could also add the advan-
tage of estal)lishing a depot (at Cape Ilecla) for our return,''
and of determining the exact route after " a good view from
the summit of the high cliffs of Ilecla."

On moving northward on the 23d, Eskimo Jens suddenly called
out " Water ! " which Dr. Pavy thought to be a false alarm ; but
a half hour brought them to a point where, from a high berg, was
seen extending "• to the coast (toward Cape Ilecla) an open chan-
nel a mile wide, in which floated small and rare pieces uf ice. For
three or four miles — as far as the perspective alhnved — the eye
could follow them. Here, on account of the convexity of the
floes, the line of water seemed to close at the entrance of James
Ross Bay against a margin of ice, and about the meridian of
Crozier Island. To the west this o])ening increased in width
past Cape Ilecla, extending, as far as we could see from hum-
mocks, thirty feet high. From the side of the pack where we
stood, following the edges of our floes and several larger ones
above, it took a more northerly direction. Here again, as to the

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TIIUEE YKAUS OK AKCTIC SERVICE.

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southeast, a convex curve of tlic pack . . . closed to the
view its noi'tlieni extension." P^skiino .Fens, notwithstanding
tlieir critical condition, was greatly delighted aiid much affected
by the appearance of a fiord seal {Phoca hupidu\ without doubt
the most northerly seal ever observed.

As Dr. I'avy had left his compass behind in the tent, he
cor.ld not determine the movement of their floe except with
reference to marks on the shore, but it was evident later that the
pack was moving to the northward into an open portion of the
Polar Sea, as new lines of coast gradually opened to the west-
ward, including three capes, the farthest of which was thought to
be Cape Columbia. To the east and northeast, at a considerable
distance, Eskimo Jens declared there were unmistakable signs
of open water. Such a condition of the ice indicated clearly a
marked disintegiation of the polar pack, and in case of a severe
southerly gale and large water-spaces to the northward the
situation would have been critical. Dr. Pavy believed that the
water did not extend farther than the coast of Feilden Penin-
sula, and that the pack was still toucliing Cape Joseph IJeiuy ;
an opinion to which Eskimo Jens objected, claiming that
water extended along the co.asts of .Fames lloss Bay and Feilden
Peninsula.

This state of affairs, as well as the limiting clause of Dr.
Pavy's orders, prevented him from attempting to proceed north-
ward over the disintegrated pack, lie conseipiently decided to
return at once to Cape Joseph Henry. Taking only indispensable
effects, and sufficient provisions to feed the party for a few days,
they started in haste for the cape, but on arriving opposite it,
found open water of three-quarters of a mile in extent between
them and the land. On returning to their old camp for some
farther stores, the water-space toward Cape Ilecla was found to
have increased in width to about three miles, while the water-

NORTHWARD OVER THE FROZEN SEA.

255

clouds to the north and northeast had increased in amount and
distin^-tness.

The farthest latitude attained by this party is given by J)r.
Pavy as 82° 56', it being estimated, as no observations for
time, magnetic declination or latitude were made at any pe-
riod during his absence.

Dr. Pavy then thought of reaching land, and, travelling west-
waril for fifteen days, of endeavoring to extend J.ieutenant
Aidrich's explorations to the southwest.

A grinding, roaring noise, indicated that the pack was
crowding against the lower coast, and in consequence, the
sledge was hastily loaded with the most indispensable effects,
and with food enough to enable the party to reach Ilarley
Spit. Abandoning his tent, provisions, and part of his scientitic
instruments, Dr. Pavy succeeded in i-eaching Cape Henry, where
the puck was grinding against the high, jierpendicular ice-foot.
The })ack stopped motioidess against the shore, which enabled
them to scramble successfully over the rough, high lioebergs
which made the ice-foot almost inaccessible. At the edge of
the ice-foot it was necessary to uidoad, and hoist th'j dogs and
ai'tieles over its vertical edge.

Dr. Pavy concluded it would be unwise to return for the
articles abandoned, as the pack was liable to move northward
again, since in the offing it was drifting south. He immediate-
ly started southward, impressed with the idea "that liobeson
Ohamiel was open, and that great haste was necessary," fearing
that the ice toward Cape Sheridan would also break up and
seriously delay tlieir ]>rogres8 homeward.

At noon, April '24th, t lie party camped at View Point, where
a record was left in the old English cairn, and in the evening
of the following day they reached Ilarley Spit. At 7 a.m. of
the 2()th the party was again in the snow-house at Plack Cape.

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TIIUEE YEAllS OF AllCTIC SERVICE.

" From Cape Sheridan, sovitli of tlie palaeocrystic pack, the ice was
broken, in motion, and in many })laces separated by largo lanes of
water.'' The next morning the wind blew from the south, and
caused an opening to the north of Black Cape '' between the solid
ice of Ilobeson Chaimel and the loose floes above — a space of
about a mile wide, and of which the transversal end disappeared

Or, Pavy and Jens Skinning Seal.
IFoit Viiiiijiif, it(iy, tsti','. J

two or three miles from the coast." The party, however, trav-
elled southward over solid ice to Lincoln I5ay, where for two
days an effort was made to lind an inland route between that
and "Wrangel Hay, which probably failed thn)ugh their going too
far to the west and iioi'tli. The party was favored with excellent
weather, with no wind and high temperatures, from this time
forward.

Depot " J}"' was reached on May 1st, and the following day

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2')7

tlie party arrived at Fort Conifer, having the same oxcellcnt
health during tlieir arduous journey of six weeks' duration they
had always enjoyed, llations of iinie-juico were daily issued
during their outward journe}', until the supply was abandoned
on the pack, and their lield-ration pi'oved sufficient for the
nuiiutenancc of their strength and health.

Dr. Pavy connnended the intelligence, judgment, and per-
severance of Sergeant llice, and the efficiency ;uid faithfulness
of Eskimo Jens Edward.

Despite steady and unremitting labor and the possession of
health and strength, this attempt to travel over the Frozen ISea
failed through natural causes ; but, as Dr. Pavy says, it " de-
termined the important fact that last fall open water could
have been found as far as Cape Sheridan, and from Conical
Hill perhaps to Cape Cohnnbia ; and proved, by our experience,
that even in such high latitudes the pack nuiy be in motion at
an early period of the year, perhaps at any time. T am firmly
convinced that, but for our misfortune in finding open M-ater,
we could, without greatly distancing Commander jMarkham,
have reached perhaps the latitude of 84° ]S'.''

In speaking of the rough character of the ice of the Polar
Sea, Dr. Pavy docs justice to the courage, endurance, and energy
of his gallant predecessors: "If such was the ice over which
the Uritish dragged heavy loads and cumbersome boats, instead
of being astonished at the snudl distances daily travelled, on the
contrary I sympathize with them in their sufferings, admire
their perseverance, and applaud heartily their pluck and
gallantry." Jle farther states his belief that Connnander Mark-
ham in no way exaggerated his hardships, an opinion, it is
hardly necessary to say, which is shai-ed by every person mIio
has ever seen i)akeocrystic ice or known the trials of Arctic

sledging.

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CIIANDLKU riOUI).

T HAD long considered it possible that the interior of Grin-
nell Land could be penetrated succes-sfully ; that the land
itself was of limited extent, and that it could be readily crossed.
This opinion was clearly set forth in my instructions to Dr.
Pavy at the time of his unsuccessful trip, in iSepteniber, ISSl,
into Archer Fiord, whence he was compelled to return by open
water. In those instructions I pointed out the experiences of
Lieutenant Archer, ll.X., in IJeatrix Ijay, and the comparatively
low i!;round to the southwest of Archer Fiord seen l)v that
otticer, as showing the possibility of travel in that direction.

My letter of the preceding September farther said : " The
object of your journey is to determine, if possible, the existence
or non-existence of the tea or other water to the westward or
southward of Mount ^'eville. It seems to me (piite probable
that such water exists at no great distance. Lieutenant Archer,
li.N., who viewed the country from an elevation of thirty-eight
hundred feet, says: ' Xo single high hill or mountain was
visible at any great distance to the westward, while mountain
ranges extended northward from luagnetic bearings 72^ X., and
southward from 72° S.' Sir Edward Delcher found islands about
three hundred miles to the south-southwestward of that point.
Lieutenant Aldrich, U.X., in 85° 33' "\V., reported that the
coast of Grinnell Land turned south as far as could be seen.
These facts, with Sir J. 1). Hooker's disc(nery that 'the vege-

CHAXDLKU FIOUD.

25'J

tatioii of this iiiei'idiiui of the polar area is entirely Green -
laiulic^, showing no inoro I'olatioii than does Greenland it.self to
tlio Uora of the American polar islands,' argue a land, and
especially to the westward, of limited extent."'

There were two possil)lo routes, hoth nearer to Conger than
Beatrix ]>ay, which had been left imtried by Captain Stephen-
son, 11. X. ; one by the way of Conybeare Bay, and the other
through Black llock Yale. In order to gain some knowledge
as to the practicability of the former route, which was preferred
by me as affording travel over the Hoe, I decided on a prelimi-
nary trip.

On April lOth, Sei'geant Cross and Private Bender, with a
Hudson Bay sledge, left Conger with instructions to penetrate
as far into Conybeare Bay as possible, in a journey which should
entail an absence of not exceeding twelve or fourteen hours
from the depot, and to tent on the shores of Sun IJay. They
carried with them, as far as the depot, certain supplies, which
were subsecpiently to be used by any party travelling in that
direction. They returned on the 2:id, having succeeded in
reaching a jwint in Conybeare ]'ay opposite to the west end of
Hiller Island, but, owing to the prevalence of snow and fog to
the westward, they had been unable to determine whether the
bay extended far in that direction. Travelling in tlie bay was
heavy and discouraging.

Although fully impressed with the importance of an Arctic
commander's renuuning at his station or ship, the condition
of affairs at this time was so favorable that I decided to absent
myself for a period of fifteen days. Full instructions were
given to Sergeant Israel as to what should be done in case of
special contingencies in connection with the sledging parties to
the northward.

Fearing the difficulties of inland travel, and believing there was

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TIIKKK YKAKS OF AlU^TIC SKllVIC'i:.

[April,

in sledgo travel a point at M-hicli extra rations became a burden
and bindrance, 1 <loc'idcd to reduce tbe weigbts as far as possible,
and to limit my rations to twenty days at tbe longest. Tbe
means of transportation were to be two Hudson J>ay sledges,
one of wliic'b was to be drawn as far as was convenient and tben
abandoned. Tbe weigbts of tliese sledges were not to exceed,
witb tbeir loads, four buiidred and lifty pounds on leaving tbe
depot at Sun ]'>ay, wbifb would be a comparatively ligbt load
fur myself and tbe tbree men, wbo were to accompany me.

A fdur-maii sbelter-tent. after tbe pattern known during our
civil war as tbe "dog-tent," was made for ns, wbicb, ctunplete,
weigbed about eleven pounds. Our cooking-lamp witb its appar-
atus, including ]ilates, cups, etc., weigbed only six pounds, and
anotber ligbt lamp weigbing a ])ound was taken for tbe use of
any man wbo miglit possibly be detacbed.

Privates J>iedcrbick, (Vmnell, and AVbisler were selected to
accompany me, but owing to Private IJiederbick's suffering ex-
ceedingly fi'om tootbacbe, bo was replaced at tbe last moment,
somewbat against my inclinations, by J5ender, wbo, altbuugb
exceedingly anxious for field services, bad been pronounced by
tbe surgeon untit for it. In order to save tbe strengtb of my
party on starting, Sergeant Cross ami l*rivate Long were taken
one maj'cb beyond tbe deptit in Sun Uay.

At l'2.'M) A.M. of tbe 2<Itb tbe party left Conger, tbe tempera-
ture tben standing at —7" ( — 21.7° C.).

At CIS A.M. tbe tent on tbe sbore of Uasil ]^ orris Bay was
readied, tbe distance as travelled along tbe winding ice-foot
being sixteen miles. Tbe ice proved to be of excellent cbaracter
for travel, liaving recently foi'ined of tbe overflow of tbo
spring tides from tbe tidal cracks. Tbe only difHculty experi-
enced was in crossing occasionally from tbe outer to tbe inner
ice-foot, wbicb, necessitating travel over very rougb ice, was

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1882.]

CIIAiNDLEU FlOKl).

201

exceedingly difficult, and resulted in the injury of one of our
sledges.

At !» I'.M. that evening we started over the low "divide" to
Sun I'liy, where wo were delayed for a few minutes in an attetnjit
to kill a wolf which was seen near. The gun had heen left be-
hind, hut we had two revolvers, with one (jf which Private
Connell fired at the wolf without success. We travelled at a
free gait and soon roinided Stony Cape, where we for the first
time looked into Conybeare I>ay. The ice formed from the
tidal overflow in Sun l»ay afforded excellent travelling, which
contimied until we passed the several spurs of Stony Cape,
when we found the ice-foot very much broken up and in a
difficult condition for travel ; our sledges continually overturn-
ing, at tinies one man had to hold them right side up.

Private Whisler and myself were dragging one of the sledges,
which, being of an improved pattern, did excellent work. The
second. Old Veteran, dragged by three men, was of such an in-
ferior pattern as to cause an enormous amount of friction and
entailed corresponding exertions to advance it.

At 2 A.M. we stopped for tea, on theconii)laint of some of the
men who were exceedingly thirsty. It may well be remarked
here, that during this trip the men who were especially addicted
to the use of tobacco seemed to experience thirst to a greater
extent than those who refraineil from its use. Whether this
was a result of the habit, or was a coincidence, I cannot say.
The cooking-lamp did not work satisfactorily, and it was an
hour and a (piarter before we were again on the road.

While delaying for this tea the temperature fell to —14°
(—25.6° C), the lowest experienced by us during the journey.
It was my own cxpei'ience that the suffering from the cold
while delaying for this lunch was so marked as to destroy the
effects of the tea when obtained. I decided in consetpence of

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TIIHKK YKAI5S OF AUCTIC SKUVICK.

[April,

tills brlrf oxpcn'ciice lliut liiiiclios wore liiadvisaMe, and that tlio
best i»hm tu follow would be to march as far as was practicable
without takinj; food ; and then, ho the distance <;reat or small,
to roj^uliirly encanii) and obtain i)ro])er rest and food before
proceed inu farther.

The surface of Convb(\ire l»ay was covered by deep snow,
which was in that most tryini; condition for a traveller, j:;laz('(l
over by a crust which was just thicU en(»ugh not to bear the
weight of a man, but snlliciontlj so to prevent walkini^ except
by lifting the foot (piito above the snow. A short experience
of that Iciiul of travelling decided us to (piit the snow-covered
tloc ;i'i(l to follow closely the ico-foot, which, though entailing
a greater length of travel, would afford more rapid progress
with a lesser expenditure of strength and time.

The ice-foot proved alternately good and liad, until at 0.35
A.M. we camped opposite a gorge which was nearly due iu)rth
of the west end of oMiller Island. What was thought to be a
low point of that island extended about half a mile to the west-
ward of us, but this was determined later in the year by Lieu-
tenant Lockwood to be a separate i.-^land.

A comfortable camp was made between the shore and a row
of forced-u|> bummoclvs, which left a level space of snow be-
tween them and the higb barren cliffs that roso above us to a
height of nearly two thousand feet, netwecn the cliffs proper
and our canij) was a high ridge of about six hundred feet in
elevation, of peculiar foi-m, which bad evidently been separated
from the main cliffs l)y the erosion of water and the action of
frost. The outlying spur of the ritlge was cut off by ravines
fully two hundred feet deep, which ran one to the east and the
other to the west, leaving a narrow passage-way with high
rock-walls on either side. The distance travelled in this march
was fifteen miles.

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riiANULEii fioi:d.

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Sergeants Cross antl Long, who li;i<l been of .issistanco to uh,
turned back tlie rollowing morning from this eamp, carrying
with tliem ti) tht! (K'jMit in Sun l!ay a two-man sleuping-bag.
'I'iiat evening, the temperature standing at —4.2' ( — '20.1' (\),
arningemcnt.s were made for our fartht-r journey by ecjualizing,
a8 far as praeticaltle, tlic loads lietween tlie two sledges. Wo
cached at that i"iiiit one day's rations fur (i\ir return trip, and
also nearly a gallon of alcohol which we feared wonltl be lost
through a leak in the tin caused by the overturn iiig of the
sledge.

At 9 r.M. we started westward, loiiowing closely the ice-foot,
which was generally good, taking breathing spells of thrte
minutes for each hour's travelling. At 1 a.m. the tenijteratuie
sank to — S" ( — 22.2' ('.), with a clear sky and nearly calm
weather. At :! a.m. we ri'ached a point where tlie shor(> made
u semi-i-ircular bend ti> the northward, more than doubling the
distance to the next point. In the centre of the ciu've opened
u\) a valley whicli e.\tended some distance iidand. Tt> avoid the
long detour by way oi the shore, I decided to strike directly
across the bay to tlie next i)romincnt point. On reaching tlie
centre of the bay a .second valley was seen running at right
angles to the first. From our new stand-pt)int the valley which
ran to the iiorth-noi'thwest seemed to extend about iiftecn
miles, gradually nariowing, while the second, to tlie east-north-
east, soon closed in an abrupt ravine. The twi) valleys united
a few miles from the ice-foot in one broad ojiening soni<' three
miles wide, bounded on I'ach side by liigli hills.

The travelling across the tloe was exceedingly tiresome, owing
to the dee]) snow and thick crust, and, despite several changes
of places in the drag-roj)es and a lunnher of short rests, the
party reacheti the other side in an exhausted condition. This
result sprang ])artly from the continual breaking througli of the

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THKEE TEAKS OF AKCTIC SERVICE.

[April,

crust, and partly from the extraordinary anioaiit of friction of
the Old A'eteran.

We reached the coast again at about 4.10 a.m., and im-
mediately encamped. The distance travelled during this march
was estimated at sixteen miles.

On examining the sledges I decided to abandon the Old Vet-
eran, being satisfied that its farther retention would materially
retard our progress.

While we were at this camp l*rivato Connell visited the
mouth of the valley running to the northwest. He found
vegetation to he abundant, and reported that during the summer
months a river evidently tlows into the bay from the valley.
At that point he also noted four wolves, and with them a nmsk-
ox, the first of the season. Leading to the ^ alley he also found
what appeared to be a nuu-k-ox trail (similar to tlie bui'talo
trails of the '• Far West"), which indicated plainly ihat the
valley was a winter resort for these animals.

While at that camp (No. 3) surprise was expressed by Tiearly
all at the great length of the bay. J.ieutenant Archer, looking
into it from Stony Cape, had judged 't to be ten miles long,
and I thought it to be about fifteen miles. Looking over the
distance we had already travelled, we concludcil it to be fullv
forty miles from Stony Cape to the exti'cnie southwest point,
where we believed the end to be. It was evident that the nearest
land to the westwaid was very high, as its apparent elevation
liad undergone slight change, although we wei'e some sixteen
miles nearer it than at Stony Cape. J)oul;tless the jjoint where
we were camped was thought by Lieutenant Archer to have
been the end of the bay, an opinion in which I woxdd have
concurred on leavinar Stonv Cai)e.

The temperature fell to —4^ (—20" C.) at this camp, ami on
calling the cook it stood at zero (—17.8° C). When i)acking the

TilN,

1883.]

CIIAKJJLKU I'lOlll).

265

single Ilnd^on Jlay .sledge, it was found necessary to abandon
a pair of snow-shoes and a spade ; in addition, we cached a
day's ration for our return journey.

We started westward at 9.30 i'.m. with a falling temperature,
-S^ (-22.2° C), clear sky and light easterly wind.

The deep interest with which we had hitherto pursued our
journey was now greatly intensiiied. The eye of civilized man

Chandler Fiord looking east from Camp 3, Miller Island in centre.
IFiviu pliotoiJluiili.\

had not seen, nor his foot trodden, the ground over which we
Avere travelling. .V strong, earnest desire to press forward at.
our Iii'st gait ;-oizcd us all. As we neared each pi'ojecting spur
of the high headlamls, our eauerness to .-»■(! what was hoyond
liecauic so intense at times as to hr ]r;iinrul. Mach ])oint
reached, and a new lamh-cape in .--ight, we found our plea>ure
not unalloyed, for ever in advance was vet a point which cut

1 \

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TiniKE YEAUS OF AIJCTIC SEKVK'E.

[April,

olV a portion of tlio liorizou ami caused a certain disappoii-t-

lllC'Ilt.

( )ur travelliiii"; was for a tiinc along the ice-foot at the base
of very high and precipitous cliftV, evidently of schistose slate.
They rose as sheer precipices, over two thousand feet above the
level of the hay — solid rock, without a vestige of vegetation to
cover their nakedness. Indeed, the only vegetation seen for
some ten miles, travelling along these cliffs, was on an out-
lying spur of clayey earth at the point where our previous camp
liad been made. In one place a narrow cleft, apparently not
more than a liundrcd fuet wide and over a thousand feet deep,
broke the continuity of the crest t>f the clifts.

It would have been very dangerous to camp at the base of
these crags, as the ice-foot was strewn with many fallen rocks.
Even as we travelled along several masses fell huiulreds upon
hundreds of feet, until checked by the ice-foot at the edge of
the shore. At one place a rock, wliich must have weighed
several tons, was Ivinii' on a larire ])aliv>ocrvstic lloe about a half
mile from the shore. I visited and examined it, thiid<ing it
might have been brought from some other cliffs, but it was
apparently of the same formation as those near by. Tt is
wortliy of remark, tliat this was the farthest point at whicli
paheocrystic floes were seen in this bay — good evidence that they
drifted from the ])olar ocean. After following a Fair ice-foot
neai-ly tlii'i'o hours, we tried the snow-covered lloe, and, tinding
that till' crust would bear us, kept well out from the shore and
turne(l our course to the southwest, which seemed to be the
true end of the fiord.

;\t that time directly in front of us was an abrupt rocky
})romonti)ry, the most prominent headland in the bay, whoso
elevation was nearly three thousaml feet, between tins bold
headland and the clifts along which we were travelling a valley

1883.]

CIIANDLEU FIOIID.

267

seetned to break in to tlio iiurthwiird. To the southwest tliero
was a second prominent niouiitain, witli otlier brealcs to tlio
nortliward o£ it, wliicli sliowed tliat, if tlio main fiord did not
extend in tliat direction, a bay nnist at least exist, wliicli possi-
bly trended to the northwest. Owing to this micertain condition
()£ affairs, and in order to save time, I left the drag-ropes and
directed the party to travel for the nearest headland. ( )n reach-
ing that point orie of the party was to make tea, while another
should travel to the north for half an hour, if unable sooner to
determine the i)rospects for an advance in that direction.

Leaving the party at 12.30 a.m., 1 travelled toward the south-
west. After going some three hundred yards over fair ti'avel-
ling, 1 fell in with smooth and bluish ice, evidently of fresh
water, which was covered with a hard, thin layer of snow afford-
ing the best of travel.

In order not to delay the sledge, 1 took up a slow dog-trot,
hoping to reach the land to the southwest and determine the
extent of the bay in that direction. Just at that time an open-
ing to the north came in view, disclosing a narrow bay, or tioi'd,
which extended a long distance. At its a2)parent head, some
ten or twelve miles distant, a broad band of ii'litterine; ice
showed up plainly, which I supposed to be the front of a largo
glacier. Beyond it were low hills on either >Uk', while in the
distant background snow-clad mountains of the hog-back char-
acter ap[)eared. 'I'he l)ay discovered by Lieutenant Archer,
gradually enlarging, had now developed into an extensive and
inipiirtant iiord. \n attaching to it later the nauit; of ( liaiidler,
1 desired to slunv in a faint way my ajipreciation of the great
energy shown, and serious I'csponsilillity assumed by Mr.
Chandler, in fitting out the Kelief Expedition of lS8-i.

Both sides of the northern arm of the fiord in the foreground
were shut in by h.uge precipitous cliffs. It seemed quite evident

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268

tiiuep: yeaus of auctio skuvick.

[April,

that our lino of future travel would lay in that direction, but J.
hastened on with an increased desire of deterniiiung the extent
of the southern arm of the fiord without delaying my com-
panions. My sj)rin<; exercise, which had almost entirely con-
sisted iu running at a slow gait, now proved of iriarked henefit
to me, and iu an hour's alternate run and walk I must have
travelled, at a low estimate, five or six uiiles. When I stopped
T found myself in the centre of a nearly circular bay, which J
desic-nated Ida Bav. From the south to the northwest the
shore was yet some two miles distant, but to the northwai'd
there was a projecting pohit not nu)re than a mile fum mo.
The bay was shaped somewhat like an elli])so, with the niajwr
axis from the southwest to the northeast, and about five miles
])y thive in size. The bold promontory, which at the bifurca-
tion t)f the iiiird consisted of huge, precipitous crags, sloped
backward to the west intt> comparatively low ground, leaving
gentle valleys of upland between it and the prominent moun-
tains that were seen at the head of the bay. The promontory
first mentioned was abcmt twenty -five hundi'ed feet high, but,
owing to the grandeur of the surrounding scenery, was hardly as
impressive on near approach as at a distiuice.

The ravines to the westward, though narrow, vet gave indlca-
tions of easy gradient, and travelling, if ditHcult, seemed possible
through them. Tiie low land to the southward was a marked
feature of the country, and indicated an easy route for overland
travel. My field jtmrnal says : "In that direction the land was
comparatively low, with several small ravines and valleys until
the hills rose again (to the eastward) in high bluffs, which, facing
the new bay, also cut off from my view any portion of IMiller
Island to the eastward."' (It was evident from Lieutenant I.ock-
M'ood's discoveries of the ensuing year, that the river rnmiiug
through Musk-ox Valley, must empty into Ida Bay through one

I i

1883.]

CHANDLER FIOKD.

269

of the ravines seen by me.) From the point I readied, the coast
line of the bay was seen to be continuons, and no cliance of
farther travel over ice ajjpeared possible.

1 took a few bearings and made a I'ough sketch, which delay-
ed mo a few minutes. During this time I was chilled through,
as my clothing was saturated from perspiration caused b}- rapid
travelling; the temperature M'as —8.5° (—22.5° C). Starting
back, rapid travel soon warmed me up. I met Private Council,
about a mile from the sledge, connng to meet me, as the men
were somewhat alarmed at mv loui^ absence.

The party, on reaching the promontory, had made good use
of their time. As soon as the sledge stopped Whi.sler had
travelled up the fiord to the next point, iinding excellent ice
for travel and the Ijcst of prospects aliead. Connell had
cooked a comfortable lunch for the party. JJender had im-
proved the delay by repairing most ingeniously the sledge,
which had been split by the rough ice. lie succeeded in
rendering it thoroughly serviceable, as Avell as in reducing its
friction. The helpfulness of my men was particularly marked
in this instance, as this work had been done by them without
any special instructions to that effect. On my arrival at the
sledge it was found repaired, repacked, iuid ready for instant
travel, while a cup of warm tea was waitiiig for me. ] delayed
the sledge for a few miiuites to take the warm drink, and then
started to the northward.

AVe kept directly up the arm of the tiord, as the ice-foot was
poor and ill-iuarkcd, and the outer ice afforded perfect travel.
It was evident fi'oni the character oC the ice that we were ap-
proaching the mouth ol' a river, or discharging glacier; for, in
place of opaque, whitish ice, we found tlie surface of the fiord
covered with layers of fresh-water ice of great clearness and
marked beauty. Its delicate blue contrasted sharply with the

W^ k

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270

TIIHEE YEARS OF AljrT[(! SEIiVICE.

April,

underljiiig sti-ata of the sea-ice. In places the overlying fresh-
water ice was at least six feet thick, composed of several clearly
defined strata. There was no douht the river, or glacier, dis-
ciiarging its water at low tide over the snrface and dannning
below, had formed these strata at different periods.

As we travelled np the liord, the cliffs which bounded it grad-
ually decreased in height, and a low hilly country beyond opened
up, while the snow-capped peaks of the T'nited States moun-
tains became more prominently and clearly outlined.

The day was beautiful — with a sky of ]-)erfect blue, no wind,
and a very steady temperature, from —^^ (—18.9' C.) to —8°
{—'2'2.2° C). As we approached the ice a very light wind from
the northeast was e.xperienced, which a2>peared to us as tlie
cold air descending from a glacier.

The glacier front, as we thought it to bo, was scarcely a mile
distant, and we were anxious to proceed, but I deemed it pru-
dent to refrain from overwork.

AVe went into camp at 7 a.m. (Xo. 4) after eight hours' work,
during which we had travelled twenty-one miles, exclusive of
the side trips.

My lielc^ journal says: "To-day's discoveries change ('<>ny-
beare Bay into a fiord (Chandler Fiord). It is (piite certain that
the site of camp iS'o. .'] where the two valleys united, is tliat
which was thought to be the end nf the bay by Lieutenant
Archer's party. Tiiis is evident, not only from the appeai--
ance of the country frt)m Stony Cape, which conveyed the
same impression to me, but also from the bearings given on his
map. Archer Fiord to the southward of Miller Island was
completely shut off by the south side of Conybeare Bay just
after leaving camp No. 3, so that the greater part of to-day's
travel has been over a part of the fiord which couKl not ])0ssil)ly
have been seen by Lieutenant Archer. The arm of the fiord

1883.]

CHANDLER FIOIJD.

271

oj)ens to the north, a direction to an observing eye from the
eastward, the most uidikely. This arm, about live miles
wide at its soutlieru extremity, narrows gradually to three miles
at our present camp. On the eastern side the cliffs are con-
tinuous — sheer precipices — save occasional breaks, or notches,
■which are in no manner practicable. The general elevation is
never less than one thousand, and sometimes as great as fifteen
hundred, feet. On the west side, the cliffs, while attaining a
general elevation ut' about two thousand feet (decreasing grad-
ually from thi-ee thousand feet at Promontory Point to fifteen
hundred at our present camp), have occasional gorges of no
great size, which never attain to the dignity of ravines. Possibly
at one gorge they could be scaled, but it would be decidedly
hazardous. Our journey of twenty-one miles is a remarkable
day's travel, which never could have been made except by
I'cason of the extraoi'dinary conditions of the ice. I have
worked all day in the drag-ropes, except during the time taken
for some eight miles extra travel, and am quite worn out this
morning from lack of sleep through pain in my left foot, caused
by breaking through the snow, covering a tidal crack, into the
sharp-pointed ice beneath, while pulling heavily. The instep
appears to be badly bruised, and I suffer nmch from it to-
day, although at the time it did not appear to be so serious,
I regretted to break in on Connell's sleep after a long march,
but I felt the necessity of getting both latitude and time sights
at this point."

il ).

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CHAPTEF. XXII.

LAKE IIAZEN.

TT was cviflent that wc were at tlie head of Chandler Fiord,
and fartlier progress must be over the ghieier or tliroiigh
some adjacent valley. The evening was a perfect one for Arctic
travel — calm, clear, with a temperature of —4° (—20° C). Leav-
ing a day's rations safely cached on shore near camp Ko. 4,
an hour's steady travel over the best of ice brought us to
wliat Ave had thought a glacier fi-ont. It proved to be an
ice-dam, which rose fifteen feet above the level of the ice at its
base, but, as the constant fornnition of ice at that point hail
raised the base, its top must have been twenty-live feet above
tlie sea. From the vertical front occasional small streams of
fresh water Mere trickling, which afforiled us, for the first time
during tlie trip, sufficient liquid to entirely quench our thirst,

A brief exanunatiou of the ice showed that we were at tiio
junction of tide- water and a fresh-water river flowing from the
interior. The stream runs through a valley about a nnle wide,
hemmed in by high clil'ls, and discharges in sunnner over
gentle I'apids, or at the level of the sea, but the first heavy frost,
forming lu'avy ice over the fiord, creates a dam which is gradu-
ally overflown by the open river behind. Fy the end of winter
results an ice-dam, a mile in width, and twenty-five feet in height.

Tlie river-ice was found level and smooth, affording such ex-
cellent travelling that the traction of the sledge was not felt.
In conseipience I dropped the drag-belt for the day.

\r^\Ti

LAKE IIAZEN.

273

During the first liour's travelling occasional shallow pools of
fresh water were founil on the sui'face of the ice, which were
an especial pleasnre to AVhisler, who fre<]nently dropped llio
drag-helt to enjoy the clear cold water. The ice was a delicate
whitish-hlue, very clear, anil in places so trajisparent for three
())• luwr feet that several overlying strata, twisted and distorted,
could be seen.

The I'iver proved to lie very crooked, and though in most
places we were able to travel directly from point to point,'
some slight detours were rendered necessary in order to avoid
wotting our foot-gear in the occasional water-pools.

Two hours' travelling brought us to a small rocky island in
the centre of the river, which had been prominent for the
previous ten miles, and which lirst seemed to be a projecting
point. It proved to be live hundred feet by three hundred in
size, of about thirty fciet in elevation, with a level, smooth toji.
It had evidently been subiected to glacial action in previous ages,
but showed no signs of such in recent years. Considerable
vegetation, such as saxifrage, dri/ax, a nund)er of grasses, and
occasional willows, was found.

The travelling improved as we advanced np the i-ivei-, and
my field journal says : " The sledge runs very easily, oll'ering
no impediment to the men's travelling freely, and, although my-
self moving at my best gait, I was unable to get two himdred
yards' start of them in an hour's travelling. In many places we
slid along without taking o\w feet from the ice for a hundred
yai'ds at a time. The river tills the entire valley and is of
a varying width h\)\n one and a half to four miles. Hills
are becoming considerably lower on bf)th sides, while the moun-
tains in the background are rapidly rksing into great prom-
inence. Though winding very nmch, the general ilirection of

the river is nearly northwest. AVe cam[)ed at about 3 a.^i.,
16

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274

TIIKKK YKAKS OT AlU'TIC SKUVICK.

[April,

ultur i-oum ciglittien miles' triivi,'! ovit the best road I liavo
ever seen \vitliiii tlie Aretie Cii'cle. 1 Imvo iiiatlo tu-clay".-^ trii)
a short one, partly on acconnt of the i:;rcat pain IVoiii my foot,
and partly hecanse yesterday's long jonrney, with the side
inarches and the little rest owini' to observations, was verv trv-
iug to the party. It seems to me that a long rest will gain time
in the end. ^lany tracks of musk-oxen have been seen to-day
along the river's edge, and a few on the ice, all eomparatively
fresh."

AV^liile liender was cooking, Connell and Whislei", with their
usual energy, Avere out looking over the adjoining country.
AVhisler brought in some conunon moss, which was (]uite green.
Cdunell i-epurted that from an adjacent hill he had a line view
to the northward, in which direction the mountains showed up
very prominently. Jle also saw many musk-ox trails, running
from the direction of the mountains to the southward.

April oOth we started at .'> r.:\t. Tlie temperature was com-
])aratively high, being +4' (—15.0° C.) under tlio intluenee of
the sun, though it had been (hnvn to —8' { — '22.2^ C). A light
northerly wind was accompanietl by a few delicate cirri, the
first clouds of anv character seen since leavinj^ (Jouiicr.

The excellent condition of the ice, and the rapidity of our
travel, was instanced by the experience of AVhisler. who, delay-
ing at camp about live minutes, was unable in an hour's time
to catch us, although travelling at his best gait. AVe were for-
tunate enough to find several pools of water on the surface of
the ice, which were refreshing in the extreme.

At times the course of the liver was very tortuous, and in an
hour we travelled first north, then northwest, afterward to the
west, and eventually to the north again, though my journal says:
" AVc have the great advantage of being able to travel most
of the time from point to point in a straight line, which

Ml '•

1883.

LAKi; IIAZKX.

275

greatly facilitates our progress, for if we wen; obliged to follow
tlie siiores of the river the distance \vould bo inoro than
doubled."

We passed one place where the river flowed between a narrow
gorge of oidy eighty yards in wiiltli with high, precipitous cliffs,
AV'hile resting in this gorge we could plaiidy hear the iioi.-e of
the water Mowing under the ice. Occasionallv we struck siu)w
with liard crust, which, though affording excellent travel, was
so inferior to the ice that it cut our gait down s«nnetinies as
low as two and a half miles an hour. The elevation of the
river above the sea increased more ]'a[)idly during this day than
the preceding one. Fresh tracks of the musk-ox, fox, hare, and
lenuniu"; were seen alonij the shore.

At T I'.M. we were astoiushed bevond measure at reachini'
a point where the stream was o[>en. I was almost inclined to
doubt the evidence of my own eyes, and, indeed, rubbed them
once before answering the inquiry of one of the men as to
what that was. The open river, al)out fifty yards wide and of
clear water, was a rapidly running stream of an average depth
of two feet. Tliis stream was bounded on both siiles by thick,
clear ice of ten feet in thickness.

We travelled alongside the open river, keeping to tlie border-
ing ice-walls, which decreased in tliickness and eventually dis-
appeared entirely at a point where the stream doubtless remains
open the entire year. Jlei-e we were diiven to the hill-side,
where the deep snow and shai'p projecting rocks made travel
slow, and rendered the task of keeping the sledge upriglit a se-
vere one. A couple of hundred yar.is farther and a sharp turn
brought in sight a scene whicli we shall all remendjcr to our
dying day. l>efore us was an immense ice-bound lake. Its snowy
covering retlecteil "diamond dust," from the midniglit sun, and
at our feet was u broad pool of open blue water wliich fed

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270

TIIUEE YKAltS or- AUCTK" 8EUVICK.

[April,

\\iv river. To the iiortliward fioiiici eight or leu luilca— its baso
at the iiortliorii etlge nf tiio lako (Ilazcn) — a partly miow-elad
range oC liigli liills ((tarlielil range) !i])))eare(l, Itoliiiid and aliovo
wliieli tlie ling-hack, snow-clad snuiniits of the Tnitcd States
nmuiitains i-oao witli their stern, unchanging splendi '''■» right
and Ici't nil the southern slutre low, rounded hill,- ic, as a
iiile, of snow, extended far to east and west, until in rcalifv or
pers})eetivo they joined the enrving mountains to the north.
The scene was one of great heauty and inipressiveness.

The excitement and enthusiasm whii'h our new discoveries
had engendered here cnlnnnated, lor our vantage ground was
such that all seemed revealeil and no point hidden. Comu'll,
who hail continually lamented the frozen foot which tnriuul him
hack from tln' tiip to North (ireenlaud, declare(l enthusiastic-
ally that he would not liave missed the scene and discoveries
for all the Polar Sea.

Altlioujjrh the march had not exceeded t(Mi nules oncluded
to camp where water was to he hail, and in ordci* t( 'mine iri

which direction our steps could he turned to hest advantage.
We accordingly bivouacked at the jimction of Uuggles River
(temporarily so called) and Lake lla/.en.

As we were about entering camp, a dark-colored bird, about
tlie size of a plover, ilew swiftly by us from behind and dis-
appeared. It was neither snow-bunting or ptarmigan, as all
agreed. Wolf, i'ox, lemming, liai'e, musk-ox, anil ptarnngan
tracks were all seen during the day.

At this camp. No. 5, 1 obtained a fair set of time observa-
tions, and ijuite woi'e out iny-elf and the rest of the party by
sittuig uj) for latitude observations. I succeeded in obtaining a
set of subpolar observations, which were not perfect, owing to
the prevalence of light cirrus clouds and the altitude of the sun,
which was at midniiilit onlv T^ above the horizon. In the time

188a.

I-AKE HAZKX.

277

Ijetwoen tlii3 two ()l)serviitl(jn.s Private ('oiiiioll travelled iil)()iit
five miles to the eastward aloiij^ the laicc, ami i'loiii his extreiiio
])()iiit, a lull of iiiodenite elevation, hf cnnld see the (iiid (d' the
lake. TIk! iiKiiiiitaiiis in that dircM-tiini, lie saiti, decrea.^cil in
elevation, linally tenuinatinj^ in hoj>'d)ack hills to the south-
ward.

I'rivate J'eiider was sent to the northward to cross the lake
and examine the valley opposite, which s(!enied to he of con-
siderahle size an<l ajqieared to have a <:;Ia('i('r in it.-t noi'thern
termination, lie retinned after i'oin* honrs' tiavei, and reported
the opj)osite valley to he unimportant. ?i'ear the nortiicrn
shore ho had discovered the existence of a loui^, narrow island
(John's islandj of considerable elevation, which, fnjui our c'aiu[i
ai)peared to he part of the main-land.

Tlie nii;ht was a clear, beautiful one, with only a breath of
wind and the temperature —.'3^ ( — ll>.4'^ C), so tliat, while Con-
ncll and myself occupied the sheep-skin bag within the don-
tent, W'hiblc' and I'ender slept on the outer ground.

Xmnerou.- 'lacks of ptarmigan and hares were seen in the
vicinity of on^ nnj), and while I was making the midnight ol)-
servatioiis a ptamiigan came within twenty live feet of us. but
flew away before our work was completed. At .") a.m. 1 was
awakened by the calling of a ptarmigan, which .seemed to be
challenging another bird that answered within a few feet of me.
I called to Whisler. wlio had tlu> revolver, to shoot the bird.
Jle reported that it was pei'ched on thi; ridge-pole about two
feet above my head. As lie was a good marksman, I told him
to take very careful aim and shoot it; l)ut Connell, who was in
the bag with me, disphiyed such a marked lack of conlidence in
Whisler's marksmanship, that in deference to his doubts I di-
rected Whisler not to lire, and so the bird escaped.

My journal of May 1st says: " Early this moi'iiiiig I started

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278

TIIKEK YKAKS OF AKCTIO SERVICE.

[May,

east, .'ind, ascending a hill four miles distant from the camp,
observed to the eastward uf the lake liog-back hills, which
were of considerably lower elevation than the mountains to the
north. Two ptarmigan aliglited on the hill, one of which came
•witl'in ii\ or six yards of me, giving utterance o frequent calls,
which were interrupted every few seconds by other notes sound-
ing like a challenge. I stood perfectly quiet and admired hia
phimago of pure white, spotted oidy by the crimson-red of his
eyelids ; \\hen tired of examining me ho leisurely flew away.

'• There appear to be a nundjcr of glaciers on the north side
of the lake, but the bad light, with the sun beyond them, ren-
dered it impossible to speak with certainty.

"Willow, as well ;is grass, was (piite plentiful. Old willow
shrubs in, small (pumtities were seen, and I doubt not, in case of
necessity, enough for cooking purposes could be found.

'• Tiiere was very little snow to l)e seen over the hills on the
south side oE the lake, but the mountains which separated the
lake on the north side fi'om the snowy range wei'e partly snow-
elad, similar to those in the vicinity of Conger. The lake was
packed with hard, level snow of about a foot in depth, which
Avas covered \\ ith a strong crust. The S(t,s I'ugi shov.'ed prevail-
ing northeast winds.

" Tliere is in the snow-covered mountains to the northward a
twin peak ; two cones running together, that to the eastward
being of slightly lower elevation than the one to the westward ;
both are pure white, distant from thirty -live to forty miles, and
al)out live thousand feet high.

" My attempt to obtain time observations tliis morning were
but partly successful, (twing to obscuriiig clouds. It seems
strange that the heavens ove>' the lake to the westward, and,
indeed, iii every direction except toward liobeson Channel,
are cloudless and bright."

1882.1

LAKE IIAZEiV.

279

Wo got into our sleeping-bags at -4.30 a.m., and turned out
at eleven o'cloc;. for latitude observations, which were again
poor and unsatisfactory, owing to the covered sky.

AV^hile bi'eakt'ast was being prepared, Yviiisler reported that
lie had seen tish six or seven inches long in the lake ; Connell,
with pin-hcok and line, tried lishing unsuccessfully.

Wliisler, who liad visited the hills to the westwai'd of Kng-
gles lliver, rejiorted a number of musk-oxen in s.'ght, with
evidences of a larger number in that direction. While absent
he shot a ptarmigan.

At 2 I'.M., May 2d, we started to the westward along the south
shore of Lake llazen. A\'e were obliged to make a detour into
the lake to pass ai'ound the open water which feeds the river,
and which extends unfrozen for about one hundred and lifty
yards into the lake.

AVhut appeared to be a glacier on the noi'th side opened up
to view, but after a careful examination with the telescope we
decided it to be only snow.

The men travelled along the lake shore, wliilc I left them at
various times to examine the character of the country to the
southward, over which I travelled about a mile distant from
and parallel to the lake. It was found invariably to consist " of
small hills, from none of which was the view extensive."' The
ascent to the southward was very gradual, and no high land in
that quarter was visible. Much grass, many willows, and other
vegetation abounded, while, to my surprise, not more than a
quarter of the ground was then covered by snow. Several
hours of this travelling, from its rough character, proved very
injurious to my lame toot, wliicli was pi'otected against the
stones only by moccasins, and I returned to the lake. During a
portion of the day the men \ ravelled in snow-shoes, which were
of service, although they were not much accustomed to their use.

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280

TlIllEE YKAKS OF AKCTIC SEUVICl':.

[May,

Along the shore wo fell in with two hares, one of which
Wliisler shot with a revolver, wiiile the second, though wounded,
escaped. In pursuing it AVhisler saw a third hare, and struck
a trail over which a rnnnher of nnisk-oxen had lately travelled.

Five hours' march hrought us to a '' renuirkahlo ridge of
pebbles and smooth stones, which extend for a hundred yards
or more along the shore, with their bases at the high-water
mark. In some cases the ridges were twelve feet above the
level of the surrounding gromid. While it is possible that ice
or snow might form a part ot' them, it is hardly probable,
as none was seen anywhere in connection with them, they
being merely high })arallel ridges of pebbles. The direction of
sasti'ugi on the lake shows prevailing northeasterly winds, and
these ridges were situated so that the winds wi>uld luive full
force over them. After a careftd examination 1 have come to
the conclusion that they have been formed during severe gales
from the northeast (juarter, which must force the ice violently
against this shore during the suumier or earlv i.utumn."' This
opinion was contirmed by direct evidence the following sununrr.

After nearly seven hours' travel we camj)ed, having made
probably sixteen or seventeen miles, although the men insisted
that it M'as over twenty.

My tield journal that morning says : " During to-day's travi'l-
ling I found along the intire shore of the lake four distinct
ridges of pebbles, thus affording suitable evidence that the
water has attaineil four different levels in separate years.
The highest ridge was the outside one, nearest the lake,
and is about six or seven feet above the level of the ice, which
is fully fifty yards distant. There is no ice-foot along the lake,
as none is to be expected, but the ice is grounded and fixed fast
to the shore at the very edge, and as the water falls it slopes
gradually toward the centre of the lake, occasionally separated

1883.1

LAKE IIAZEN.

281

fi'oiu the main l)ocly of ice by deep, narrow cracks. The slop-
ing- of the ice rendered it necessary in following the contours of
the shore to keep about a hundred yards out from its edge, where
the snow-crust was stronger and better than elsewhere. Any
attempt to proceed toward the centre of the lake invariably re-
sulted in the party breaking through the crust, which made our
progress slow and difficult.

"Opposite our present camp, on the northwest side of the
lake, we have seen during the afternoon travel what is evidently
a large glacier. It was hidden from view farthei- to the east
]jy a ])roiectic)n of the land on its eastern side, where several
small mountains are situated."

We had a good rest at camp No. 7, where wc spent twelve
hours, being delayed somewhat by the bad behavior of the
cooking-lamp. The temperature sank to zero (—17.8" C.) dur-
ing the night, which, la connection with a liglit wind, made it
uncomfortably cool, but in the early morning the wind died
away, rendering travel delightful.

While the men were i)acking the sledge on May 2d, I
walked rapidly along the shore to the next point, in order to
examine the country, and determine whether it would be best
to proceed westward to the end of the lake, or northward to
the glacier which had been in sight since the prev'.ous day.

On reaching the jioint 1 was not entirely satisfied that 1 could
see the entl of the lake, although the men on arri\'al maintained
that it was in view, ^ly tield journal says: "I feel confident
ivum the break in the land to the southwest, between the
mountain range in the north and the low hills to the south, that
there must be a valley or ]>ass leading westward.''

As the distance clearly seen to the westward was at least
twelve miles, and it was doubtful it" we could reach it I)v the
day's travel, I decided to cross the lake to the glacier and ileter-

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282

TIIKEE YEA US OF AUCTIC SEUVICE.

[May,

iiiiiio sometliiiig of it^ si/o and character. 1 also hoped that
from the adjoining mountains something more satisfactory could
be seen of the to]iograj)hy of the country to the southwest, We
consequently turned north to cross J^ake llazcn. In a shore dis-
tance the travel was found of the worst possible character, the
crust being just too weak to support the weight of a man. In
consequence the men put on snow shoes, of which there wen;
three pairs, while I followed the sledge. After six hours'
travelling, during which wo had marched twelve miles from
our previous camp, we stopped inshore from the lake a .scant
mile and made camp l\o. 8. We were then three miles east
of llem-ietta jS'esmith glacier, which I named for my wife.

The snow-covered ground rose so gradually, from the level of
the lake, that we were not conscious of liaving reached it until
we were some distance inland. I unwisely decided to camp
there, expecting to obtain our ice from the lake near-by. As
soon as camp was reached, Connell and Ijender arranged the
tent and commenced prcparatiuna for supper. We were all
quite exhausted by the dilHcnlt travelling, but I decided to visit
the glacier front at once, fearing that I shouUl be prevented by
some unforeseen contingency the following morning. Private
Whisler asked also to visit it and obtain ice for cooking \mv-
poscs for supper, as the ice near-by was very dirty and unlit for
use. 1 advised him not to do so, owing to the great distance,
lie started directly for the main front by the way of a small
bay, through which the water from the glacier reaches Lake
llazen. 1 decided to follow up along the base of four small
mountains to the eastward of the glacier, as they seemed to abut
against it and afford a route bv which I could reach its surface.

"While I'li route I found a large pasture-ground, where musk-
oxen had broken the crust and scraped away the snow to reach
the willows. gras.s. and saxifrages which grew plentifully at that

1883.]

I.AKK JIAZKX.

283

place. Traces of musk-oxen, from a day to weeks old, were
met with. In different places there were direct signs that some
of the crust hud been broken since the last storm, other portions
prior to the last storm, and still others long before that time.
The evidences were marked and clear that this point was a past-
lu'e-ground much freipiented by these animals.

Hare and wulf tracks were quite freipient in the vicinity, but
there were nunc of the fox, although traces were seen that
morning in crossing the lake. It was a matter of surprise to
me, despite these marked evidences of considerable numbers of
nmsk-oxcii on the Udrth side of the lake, and similar traces of
etjual nund>ers on the south side, that at no place was the track
of a musk-ox to be found at the edge of the lake or on the nuun
tioe. This would seem to show a disinclination to cross any ex-
tent of ice, as was the case along the Kuggles IJiver, where the
foot-tracks on the river-ice were near the very edge.

I had hoped to find the top or crown of the glacier Hush with
and pressing agajist some point t)f the juountains, so as co per-
mit .u examination of it, but such was not the case. From the
central medial line the crown sloped down gradually to either
side, and near the mt)untains the angle of descent was sharper,
but at a distance oi a hundred yards from the mountain it
stopped, leaving a perpendicular wall of ice twenty-five to thirty
feet high. AVitli considerable ditilcully 1 climbed the steep
mountain-side, which was covered with coarse, yielding sand,
until 1 was far above the edge, anil apparently on the same level
as the opposite central crown of the glacier, which was about
four hundred vards from the centre of the main or dischai'iiing
front. j\Iy barometer then read 28.80. Descending the ]ire-
cipitous cliffs, I then stood at the eastern base four hundred
yards lower down the glacier than the point opjiosite my
station on the liill. The barometer then read 21>.49. The

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TIIIJEE YEAUS OF AKCTIO SKIIVK'R.

[y^^y,

difference of the two elevations was not far from five Imndred
and twenty foot. 1 estimated tlic lieij^lit of the vertical front
of the glacier at that place to be one hundred and fifty to one
hundred and seventy-live feet. This gave the glacier a very
large slope of three hundred and sixty to three hundred and
eighty feet in a distance of four hundred yards, which seemed
to indicate an enormous thickness of the ice in rear.

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Heniietta Nesmith Glacier.
[Snuwiii!/ ((istnii nijf iiiitriliiuj iKjuiDHt the iiKiuiildiiit.]

During the day's march the glacier had gradually grown from
a narrow line of ice to a sliarply defined hank, which from camp,
two or three miles distant, appeared to he perhaps twenty-live
feet high. A nearer approach, causing it to tower into enormous
proportions, awakened my wonder and admii'ation, which con-
tinually increased as I exannned it critically from its front, and
came to have a just idea of its nuignitude. The face, convex.

1883.]

LAKE IIAZEN.

285

or crescent-shaped, was about five miles from hill to hill — a mass
of sheer, solid ice, averaging about one hundred and seventy-live
feet in height, though in one place as low as one hundred and
again as high as two hundred feet.

My tield journal says : " The toj) of it was a pure dead-white,
densely opaque, resembling in a niai'ked manner the surface of
loaf-sugar, or broken and unj)olishe(l white marble. Lower
down it s'laded into a color bordering on blue, the whole very
iinich resembling tloebergs. In general, the color of the ice,
which lay in detached }iiles at the foot, was a delicate blue,
shading closely on the white, but in certain places strata of a
faint yellowish color were to be seen. These strata were ir-
regularly coniined to certain points, and I'oniu'd a very incon-
siderable portion ol" the vi^il)le front. Their color while in the
glacier itself gave tlie a[)pearance of a delicately tinted rose-
shade, which, as I have said, changed to a faint yellowish on
close examination. There were three large deeply-worn gullies
or channels on the surface of the glacier, one at the centrfe and
one near each side, which showed tliat in the summer and
autumn very considerable streams of water nuist be discharged
from the surface of the i'-lacier. The side millies were of in-
considerable size compared with the central one. The lowest
part of the crown of the glacier was at a point where watei" of
the largest discharging channel had wi>rn deeply into the ice,
leaving its elevation not more than a liiiiidred feet.

I saw several moraines on tln' sontiiwcstci'ii t-idi", but was too
nnich worn out by ti'avel in the deej) snow in fn)nt of the
glacier to visit tlu'iii. The next mofuiug C'onnell visited ami
examined them. The following descrijition was obtained im-
mediately on his return :

The moraines were three in number, situated near the\yestern
face of the glacier, and nearly parallel to each (.)ther. They

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280

TIIKKK VKAUS OF AUCTIC SKIlVirK.

mny,

were coinposcd of black sand mixed witli i-oarso pebbles and
occasional boulders ol' small size. No large lilocks of stone
M'ere visible. ^>o. 1, al>out twenty yards in leiiirth and fifteen
feet high, extended in a gentle curve from a point within about
five yards of the ghuMor front to a j)oint twenty yards distant
from the base of the high hill to the westward, against which
the side of the glacier pressed. The nearest point of the
moraine was so close to the glacier front that the falling ice
covered a portion of it.

3*0. 2 was likewise fifteen feet high, about seventy yards
long, and generally ]iarallel to and about ten yards distant from
IS'o. 1. ^'o. .3 was about twenty feet high, a huiuli'e<l yards
long, parallel to, and thirty yards distant fi-om No. 2. The
front of each moi-aine was nearly perpendicular, but the rear
portion (that part nearest the glacier) gently slo])ing.

The apj)earance of the moraines seemed to indicate that
within a moderately late period the western spur of the glacier
nuist have advanced and retrograded threo se])arate times, the
jieriod of retrogradation in each case being more marked than
that of progression, as shown by the greater size and importance
of the moraines, as.the distance from the present front increased.

Careful observations resulted in no satisfactory evidence as
to whether the glacier is at present ])rogressing or retrograd-
ing. I think it hardly possible that in late years it could have
extended any considerable distance fai'ther than its present
front. This opiiuon seemed reasonable, not oidy from the
presence of the moraines, but because the hills innnediately
adjacent U) and in front of the glacier, and but slightly above
the level of the lake, showed plants and lichens which were
connnon to the entire country, such as purple saxifrage, Arctic
willow, dryas, and the po];py. Over the lower grounds immense
quantities of sand were scattered, probably deposited from the

1«H3.1

LAKK IIAZKN.

287

suiiiiner streams, which were so intermixed with the snow that
it was impossible to tell where the land ended and the lake
commenced.

No yellow strata of ice, fiuch as had been seen near the centre,
were visible in the western half of the glacier. Wo had heard
masses of ice falling frecjuontly during the night, and a con-
siderable quantity broke a:id fell from the front while C'onnell
was opposite that discharging stream, which is a little cast of
the centre front at the lowest point of the crown.

The ice when undetached had presented at its great height
a light yellow shade, but newly fallen it was found on examina-
tion by Connell to be of a line ])ink tinge, (piite marked in the
masses. A small watercourse runs at certain seasons of the
vcar from the western sido along the front between the tjliicier
and the moraines. Although covered with level ice, no running
water could be heard by Connell, nor could any be obtained by
digging with a hunting-knife. It is possible that this water-
course may come from some discharging brook of main impor-
tance, which, being on the western slope of the glacier, could not
be seen from an exterior standpoint.

Three similar watercourses were discovered by me some
distance in front of the main brook, which discharged from the
centre of the crown of the glacier. It occurred to me as being
possible that the western brook miglit discharge from imdcr
the glacier, as frequently occurs in the Greenland fiords.

This sunuiicr surface-discharge seemed singular to me, and I
exann'ncd all the watercourses which appeared to be entirely
dry and with but little ice, but the deep snow miglit have
easily concealed some stream of water under the surface-ice.

Private Bender left at the same time as ("oiiiicll, with orders
to ascend, if possible, one of the adjacent mountains, in order to
exanune the countrv to the westward, lie was unable to ascend

mrr

288

TIIUKK YEAHS OF AHCTIO SEUVICK.

[May,

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to the suniinit of cither, as tlio haso and side of the niountaiiiH
were covered with soft, yiohliiiii; sand, hijing at Buch an angle
as rendered an ascent to the top l|opelesy. Jt seemed probable
from Ids acconnt that this sand was a deposit resnlting fnmi
the grinding of the nionntain-side by the glacier at some former
time. From the highest point reached by him he was imalile
to see any considerable distance np the glacier, owing to iiitcr-
veninji; mountains. To the southwest he could see some tweutv-
Hve nules or more. The lake appei"'ed to end in a small, nearly
land-locked bay some lifteen miles distant, beyond which nothiug
coidd be seen except a succession of low, rounded hills. The
same description of country existed to the southward, ah hough
the hills were slightly higher. No high mountains were visible
in cither (piarter. There appeared a decided l)reak in the
country to the westward of Lake ilazen, as the ice-dad moun-
tains to the north of us very abi'uj)tly gave place to low hills.
A few mountains to the westward were partly snow-clad, the
iiKJst prounnent of which was a pyranud-shaped mountain some
twenty miles distant, that had been our landmark ever since
the lake liad been reached, and which now bears the name of
AVhisler. Unfortunately I neglected to send a barometer with
JJender, so the exact elevation of the [loint reached by him is
uncertain, but he tliought it to be not far from two thousand
feet.

On returning iVom Henrietta Nesmith glacier to camp on the
north sitle of Lake Ilazen, May ;3d, 1 noticed an atmospheric
phenomenon which seemed to me unique ; it was a beautifid
mock-sun. accompanied by clearly defined prismatic colors, at a
distance of 120"^ from the sun. This phenomenon was seen in
the oidy quarter of the heavens which at that time was covered
with light clouds, being nearly south of the glacier, which was
at mv back.

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1882.1

LAKE IIAZEN,

28!)

I since find this phenomenon luentioneil hy Flmnniarion
as heing especially reuiarkiiblc and rare, lie say.s: ''Some-
times the solar rays experience two successive relloctlons upon
the vertical surfaces of one of the prisma. There is then
visible, at 120^ from the sun, a white image more or less
diffuse, which has received the name of jHtninthcllini. The
horizontal bars of the ice-crystals reflect also the solar light,
but in an upward direction, which prevents the spectator
from perceiving it uidess he bo upon the suimiiit of a steep
mountain, or in the car of a balloon, above the cloud con-
taining the icy particles. It will be rinidily admitted that those
conditions can rarely be fultilled ; but MM. I'arrae and I5i.\io
were fortunately able to realize them on .luly 27, 1S50. The
image of the sun thus reflected appears almost as luminous as
the sun itself. Eravois suggested for this phenomenon, at once
so remarkable and so rai-e, the name oi j)scuiIo/ieli(m."'

May -Ith, we built a cairn on a prominent hill about two miles
east of the glacier, anil three hundred feet above the lake, in
which was deposited a notice of our visit. The cairn is about
five feet high and is quite prominent from the eastward, but
in other directions does not show up imtil near at hand.

1 succeeded in obtaining a good set of time ol)servations, but
did not deem it advisable to wait for latitude. The high tem-
perature of the air at that time ( — 11 ' F., —11.7^ C), and the
fact of the country to the westward being open, decided me to
return at once to Conger and attempt a second trip later in the
year. It was evident that if we turned our faces to the west-
waril we could travel no farther than we had already seen, and
the high temperature caused me to fear that the river would
break up behind us, in which case our return to Conger would
be a matter of extreme ditflcidty, if not considerable danger.

We conseipiently took a direct course across the lake for the
11)

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290

TIIKKi; YKAKS (>F AUtTIC HFUVU'K.

[May,

mouth of Itn^'jilos River, iiiul after eijj;ht hourfi' steady travelling
arrived there in an exhausted condition.

The desire to reach a point where water could ho obtained
and fuel saved was the oidy incentive which eiuihled us to make
tliis juurney in a single march. The lake could have been
crossed in a siiij^le day with no other sledge than a Hudson I'ay,
as, while the surface of ho crust fre(|uently broke under one of
the party, the sledge never stopjjcd during our entire inarch. I
estimated the distance at twenty miles, though the men insisted
it must have been at least twenty-five. ^Xo were obliged to
make occasional detours from a straight line of travel, owing
to the character of the ice and snow fallfu in with.

AVhile crossing the lake a number of cracks were found, and
it fretpiently occurred that the ice sank an inch or two when-
ever the ])arty passing a crack reached other ice. It seemed
evident from this that the glacier streams which discharged into
the lake must be frozen quite or entirely up during the winter.
The sui)ply of the lake being thus cut off, there is a dillcrcnce
between the winter and sunmier levels not far from six or seven
feet, and the ice gradually sinks as the water fails.

The tracks of wolves at the ciinip indicated a visit during
our absence, but the ptarmigan which we had cached under
snow-blocks was still undisturbed.

Time observations were taken, and the ne.\t morning, after
caching fourteen cans of beef, mo started at seven o'clock and
travelled with the utmost rapidity xmtil noon, when 1 stopped for
latitude, and decided to make camp Xo. U at that ])oint. The
distance travelled in this march was estimated ;it sfMcufci uiles.
Our journey lay along the open I'iver for .. . to«k a

number of observations to deternr' '' ' v. o river

at that point was seventy-iive ya >vjde ,. twc cct deep,
with a rock v bottom. From the nicun of lucse observations,

1882.]

LAKK IIAZKN.

291

t'lo current of the river \viin deturiuiiicd to l»o over three liuii-
(Ired ami fifty feet ii minute, or iil)out four miles an liour.

huring the clay, as we were inarcliinj;, four niupk-oxen were
seen on the hill to the cast, and later, after making camp, six
others observed to the southeast. It seemed possible to us
that they attained the sununit of those hills from the valley
visited by ('onnell at camp iS'o. .'5. It is evident that they could
not reach the river directly, as the clilTs were far too precipitous.

A long lest of twelve hours put our feet in good condition for
our next march, which began at midnight of Miiy -ith to .'ith.

A few scattered snow-llakes and a very high temperature of
+ 31° ( — 0.0° C.) seemed to threaten bad weather, the first of the
journey. During the day we passed a very small island near the
eastern shore, which had not been noticed by us on our outward
trip. Another small i.sland was discovered near the western
shore some distance lower down the river. It was some fifty
yards across by a hundred yards long, with an elevation of ten
to fifteen feet above the river. It consisted almost entire!} of
gravel, with but scanty vegetation. The number of water-pools
on the ice had increased since our upward journey, and detours
were occasionally necessary to pass them. They finally drove
us to the eastern shore near the large island discovered in our
outward journey.

We passed the ice-dam on the eastern end, where there were
large ridges of heavy ice in front of and parallel to the main
dam. A careful examination of this ice-dam left me of the
opinion that there were no natural falls at this point, but that it
was simply a dam of ice formed from natm-al causes during the
winter. Bender was here detached with a knapsack to take up
the cache left at camp No. 4, while we proceeded, and after
seven hours' travelling made camp No. 10 on the ice in Chandler
Fiord.

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TIIIIEE YEAKS OF AIICTIC SERVICE.

[May,

After an hour, as breakfast was ready, and Private Bender
not in sight, Wliislcr was sent to meet him. A .slight fog had
risen in the meantime, which was quite thick and rendered
it possible to see only a short distance. Connell, gohig a few
lumdred yards from camp, kept Whisler in sight, while I in turn
kept Connell in sight. Finally Ijcnder arrived, nearly two
hours behind us. lie had lost himself in the fog, and, strange
to say, had turned his face up the stream and recrossed the <lam
before he found out where he was. Finding himself on the
wrong shore, he waited £ov the fog to clear before trying it again.
lie informed me that on the western side tlie river had com-
menced breaking uji, and in one place a water-hole over a hun-
dred feet in length had formed. The ice-dam to the extreme
west was nearly level with the land, which explains why so
nnicli smooth fresh-water ice was found on that side and but
little or none on the east.

The weather was so warm that 1 slept with ojien tent and Hap.

"We left camp Xo. 11 that morning about S.30. Camped at
7.08 P.M., May r)th, between camps 1 and 2. Whisler's eyes
pained him very much from snow-blindness, and he could
scarcely see.

On May Tth we started about 4.;^o a.m., and in live hours
reached the tent at Basil Xorris Bay, where we rested a few
minutes to melt ice for water. Leaving here all ttur supply of
food, except enough for a single meal, we reached F'rench Cape a
little before noon, quite worn out with our seven hours' travel.

Two hours were spent in preparing a meal, after which the
threatening weather was such that I decided to attempt to
reach the home station, although we were very much exhausted.
"We left at 1.4.") p.m., at which time a strong easterly wind pre-
vailed, followed a short time later by occasional light snow.

After a little over two hours' travelling, Connell complained of

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1882.1

LAKE IIAZEX.

293

severe cramps in his legs and knees, and a few minutes after
was obliged to give out and quit the drag-belt. I endeavored
to prevail upon liini to got on tiie sledge, which he begged per-
mission not to do, saying he wa? able to hobljle into camp by him-
self. Stopping occasionally to keep Connell in view, as I was un-
willing to permit him to get out of our sight during the wind
and snow in his exhausted condition, we were finally met a half
juile from the station by Schneider and Henry, one of whom
took my place in the drag-belt, while '.iie other went out to meet
and assist Connell. A few minutes later Doctor Pavy and Jens
came with the dog-sledge, which was sent to bring Connell in.
Y>'e reached (^)nger at ?.:?<• i'.m., having travelled thirteen hours
and a distance of nearly thirtv miles since makinc: our last
camp.

This sledge journey was an exceedingly fruitful one in its re-
sults. It disclosed physical conditions in the interior of Grinnell
Land hitherto unsuspected. The absence of discharging gla-
ciers, which had excited renuirk on account of the extreme lati-
tude of (Jrinnell i.and, was now explained by the discovery of
a hi :^">n, rugged country, intersected by a system of fiords and
lakes, which readily drains, during the short Arctic sunnner,
the inconsideral)le snow-fall. The valleys, bare of snow, give
birth to vegetat'on, luxuriant for the latitude, which serves as
pasturage for considerable game. The presence of the glaciers,
bursting through the Garfield range, ])rov(:d the existence of
an ice-cap on the northern part of Griimull Land, and infer-
entially a radically different topography from the country in
(he vicinity (_)f Discovery ILirbor and Lake ILazen.

This journey involved over two hundred and fifty miles' travel,
whirh was mad<; in twelve days. The rate of travel compares
favorably even with McClintock's most extraortlinary journeys.
The system of reasonable journeys, and innnediate travel after

•I w.

HTf

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-I^AaIH

294

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVTCK.

necessary rest, ample and nourisliing food, exceedingly light
equipment, and smooth ice, all favored and facilitated rapid
progress. To these conditions were united others essential to
successful sledging — the hearty co-operatioii, great persistency,
and untiring energy of the enlisted men of the party.

Icebergs, from a Photograjin

light
rapid
ial to
tency,

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LIEUTli.NANT .lA.MES 11. l.DCKWODl).

(■/'Ac /erti/tv lu the J'liil/icit .Xiirili.)

■' '!

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE FARTHEST NORTH.— COJ^GER TO CAPE BRYANT.

[lieutenant lockwood . ]

'V\7IiII-'E tlie journeys descril)ed in tlio iiiimecliatoly pre-
ceding chapters M-ere being made, the exploration oF
thc Xorth Gi-eenland coast was being conducted under the
efficient and active leadership of Lieutenant James B. Lock-
wood. The advance sledge was to be hauled by dogs, with
Eskimo Christiansen as driver, and one enlisted man (preferably
Sergeant Brainard) was to be selected, at Lieutenant Lockwood's
discretion, from the most energetic of the supporting party at
its farthest. lentil the selection was made, Sergeant Jewell was
to be with the dog-sledge. The supporting sledges— four of
the Hudson Bay pattern — were to be hauled by Sergeants
Brainard, Linn, Balston, Elison, Corporal Salor, Privates
Biederbick, Connell, Frederick, Hcmy, and Whisler.

The weight of these men ave-aged 17»J pounds; ranging fr.)ni
Whisler, 150, to Henry, 2(.»3. The average amount of extra
clothing was ten pounds per man, consisting of sleeping-gear,
extra socks, mittens, and jumpers. The clothing in wear was
generally double suits of underclothing— one woollen and one
blajJcet — three pairs socks, with outer oi'dinaiy wool clothing,
over which a light duck suit was worn to keep the snow from
adhering to the wool. A few only wore outer clothing of skin.
The foot-gear was made up of moccasins, and Greenland, Lab-

1 1

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296

TIIKEE YEAKS OF AUCTIC SEKVICE.

rador, and canvas boots ; enough l>L'ing taken to furnish each
man with two pairs.

JSergoant Hrainard, in cluirge of tlie t^lcdges Hayes, Kane,
Hall, and Beaumont, left the station April ;3d, in a temperature
of —29"" ( — ;U^ v.). They dragged on leaving seventy-eight
pounds per man, which was to be increased slightly at Depots
" A " and '* 15," and on leaving their base of supjilies, in New-
man Bay, was to be as near two lunidred pounds as the state of
the ice would ])erniit them to haul. This accorded with my
views, that the extreme hard work of sledging should be gradu-
ally reached in order to avoid overwoi'k, which is most probable
in the earlv davs of strength and enthusiasm.

A few remarks bearing on the dangers of sledging, and tho
importance of caution and discretion, Avere made to the men on
leaving. A general salute was given the party near the station,
and 1 accompanied them with the pui)py-team as far as Dutch
Island.

Lieutenant J>ockwood had renuiinetl at the station to perfect
some personal arrangements, and left the following day. J I is
team nominally was of eight dogs, averaging sixty-two pounds
weight; but one dog, weighing f(jrty pounds, never liauled the
food she ate.

Lieutenant Lockwood's orders read : '* ^'ou are charged witJi
the full cunti'ol and arrangement of the most important sledg-
ing and geographical work of this expedition — of exploring the
northeast coast of Greenland. I am not unaware of the ditli-
cult position in which you are necessarily placed from our in-
ability to lay out suitable depots to the northeast during tho
past autunm, from the limited number of your supporting
parties, and from your working with a wide strait covered with
ice separating you from your base of supplies and field of
operations. The energy and discretion already displayed, united

THE FARTHEST NOKTII.

297

to your endnranco and experience (tested by nearly two
liundred miles of field work this season, with temperatures
lower than 90° below the freezing-point), give me -strung
assurance of success. . . . Memoranda showing the location
of supplies to the northward will be furnished you. The object
of this work will be to explore the coast of Greeidand near
Cape Bi'itannia. Should you be fortunate enough to pass be-
yond that point, you will proceed iu such direction as you think
will best carry out the objects of the expedition — the extension
of knowledge regarding lands within the Arctic Circle. . . .
At your farthest, one day must be spent in determining your
position . . . and in making such other observations us
will be practicable. It is particularly desired that the period
and character of the tides be noted, if any way possible.
From the farthest land, specimens of the various rocks, vege-
tation, etc., should be obtained. . . . While it is desirable
that Lieutenant Ijcaumont's cairns bo visited, you are to make
no considerable detours for such purposes. . . . The depots
should be carefully noted and secured ; each member uf the
party should be shown their exact location. . . . Your
attention is invited to the danger of pursuiug your journey
beyond such point as your provisions arc half consumed, and t
remaining or venturing any distance from the land after lanes
of water have once shown themselves."

The depot at Cape IJeechy, with those established on the
Greenland coast during March, was sutHciently supplied to
enable J^ieutenant Lockwood's main i>arty to haul their suj^ple-
mentary supplies from Depot " J>'' at one load. Tliis left to
him the collection at Polaris T>oat Camp, in Xewinan I'ay,
of the stores at Depot " E " and on the floe iu liubeson
Channel.

The supporting party camped at Depot " A," near Cape

I' ■, ^-.N,

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298

THUKE YEARS OF ARfTIC SERVICE.

if:

Mtireliifjoii, wlici'O Lieutenant Kiisliiiiibnrv had tlioiiiilitfiilly
preceded them and arranged the tent Um' their rece])ti()n. The
temperature on arrivini;' was —32'^ ( — 3.5.0° C), wliich fell to
— 41° (—40.0^ C), making their first night a severe one, though
it was passed satisfactorily. Their loadri were there increased
to ninety pounds per man.

They reached Depot "■ !>,'' April 4th, in six hom-s' travel, and
camped in the snow-house, at which point they were jctined by
Lieutenant Lockwood, who left Conger that evening, with the
dog-sledge.

On the evening of the ath the entire party left Depot " B,"
liauling a hundred and thirty pounds to each man and a Inm-
divil to eacli dog. Cape Beechy was i-eached after about four
and a lialf hours' travel, as Sergeant Brainard says, comparing
the time with that made in his previous journey: "An hour
and twenty minutes in favor of the Hudson Bay sledge with
one liundred and thirty pounds, as against the ]\[cClintock with
one hundred pounds. The work performed by these (Hudson
Bay) sledges is very gratifying to us, the friction being much
less than with the English sledge."'

"Whisler complaining of illness, the party camped after seven
hours' travel. Here the field sledge-ration commenced, the
alcohol (fuel) allowance (five ounces) of which was not con-
sidered satisfactory, barely melting the frozen meat. The
fuel allowance of the Jh'itish expedition, 1875, was four
ounces. As the Eno;lish allowance had been unsatisfactory at
times, after consultation with my officers T fixed our ration at
four and a half ounces, which was increased, under certain
circumstances, to five. Subsequently six ounces were fixed on
as a proper ration, and that amount proved satisfactory.

At this camp, Brainard says : " Ralston, cook ; temperature
about — 40'^ (— 4(V^ C.) ; his duties were rendered very tryuig

ipl^

THE FARTHEST XORTir.

290

on account of liaving frozen liis fingers during tlie operation of
the niorning meal. Our sleeping-bags were like iron, and sleep
was out of tlie question ; our teeth were clattering and clash-
ing together in a most dangerous manner. Connell froze one
of his toes in the slecping-lxig ; it is very sore and considerably
swollen, but he, however, intends to retain his place in the
drag-ropes ; Henry suffering with rheumatisu), and says he can-
not proceed, and so has been ordered to return to the station.
So nnich for huge men for Arctic service."

The temperature fell as low as -48.8^ {-U.O^ C). The
party escaped serious frost-bites, except Connell, wdio was badly
frost-bitten on the ball of his foot, liieutenant Lockwood says:
'• Henry was suffering from rheumatism, and thought he would
have to be hauled back if ho went any farther, so I directed
him to return to the station. Connell thought he "was able to
go on ; was wilUng and anxious to try at any rate."

They moved forward from this camp on the evening of April
<>tli. After Connell had limped along painfully for an hour, ho
was so done up that Lieutenant Lockwood says: "He had fallen
out of the drag-ropes, being hardly able to get along at all. He
reluctantly agreed to going back. Leaving the main party to
proceed, I left my load and took Connell to <^/iipe Beechy,"
from which point he thought he could proceed by himself.
During the day they fell in with several strips of rubble from
young ice, in wliich the Hudson Bay sledges, entirely unsuit-
able for such ice, were frequently overturned. The rough,
pointed ice damaged the sledges, and other mishaps made
travel corres])ondingly slow and laborious. Lieutenant Lock-
wood being absent with Comicll, Brainard camped, owing to
high wind, after seven and a half hours' travelliTig.

Here Brainard was cook, in a temperature of —'27^ (—.32.8'^
C), with a brisk wind. His field journal says : '• This morning

«iii

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3U0

TIIHKK YKAIJS OK AUCTIO SEltVTCK.

the functions of c'(K)k arc particiihirly (lisagreealde, witli a
strong wind tlircatening to carry away our tent, and in addition
I liavo to face the tJcowling conntcnances of my companions,
who gloomily take their breakfasts in the small pannikins. The
oltvious cause of these iialf-angry faces is the lack of meat, for
whicli hard bread was substituted. Kiteidjenk, the king-dog,
ably assisted by CJypsy, the <jueen, entered tlie tent while wo
were sleeping, and cai-ried away the meat already prepared for
our evening meal. As no allowance for thievinjjr dojis was
made in our scale of provisions, we are compelled to fast until
the next meal.''

From this camp Lieutenant Lockwood started in advance to
do work with the dog-sledge, leaving Sergeant llrainard again
in charge of the supporting parties. This arrangement con-
tiimed until Cape JJryant was reached, as Lieutenant L( ckwood
employed his time, with the more rapid dog-sledge, in alternately
advancint' his own load and in assisting the mun-sledi'es,

Shortly after starting the brisk wind develo[)ed into a severe
storm, which drove Di-ainard to camp in less than three hours.

Salor and Uiederbick, through a misunderstanding, allowed
themselves to become separated from the main party, and had
to be hunted up in the furious storm by Sergeant J'rainard, who
iinally came uj)oii them, burrowed in a snow-bank, with only a
rubber blanket to protect them. He succeeded in bringing
them safely to the tent, where the I'cst of the party were
anxiously awaiting them, alarmed as to their safety.

The storm increased to a violent gale, the wind reaching, it
was estimated, sixty miles an hour, from which they were partly
sheltered by huge bergs inmiediately to the windward, or their
tents would not have stood for a moment. The barometer rose
in twenty-one hours over six-tenths of an inch, and the temper-
ature 26° (14.4'^ C). The wretchedness of the party was e.\-

THE FAIITIIKST NORTH.

'M)]

trt'Uic, as the driftiiij^ hiiow, weiglitinj^ down their aheudy
crowded tents, erainped them exeessively, und rendered the
proper preparation of their meals impossihle.

Finally, on the evening of April i»tli, the storm ahatod, when
Sergeant Hrainard says : " We are anxious to (piit this misera-
ble place at any price. Wo have been in the sleeping-bags
about forty-five hours, suffering discomforts that words would
fail to convey any idea of, and which can oidy be appreciated
by those who have had a similar exjierience."

Lieutenant Lockwood was caught by the same storm near
Cape Sumner. In passing that point lie says:

"Here, instead of the protection I had anticipated from the
liluftV, we encountered a series of blasts and whirlwinds of snow,
disagreeable in the extretne, and making it ditHcult to keep the
sledge from sliding sideways into the pits formed by the snow
adjoining every mass of ice." lleaching a largo snow-drift, ho
continues : " We dug a small hole in the snow-bank and crawled
inside," where "how long exactly we remained 1 don't know;
I was glad to leave even before the storm liad ceased. . .
AVe had no light except from some cracks, which closed and
opened continuously through some unknown agency, occasion-
ally new cracks forming. This movement was accompanied by
a noise which was rather alarming, until I found that our abode
didn't decrease in size thereby. On crawling out when the
storm had ended, the dogs were almost concealed from view l)y
the snow which had drifted over them."

Xear Cape Sumner the supporting party met Lieutenant
Lockwood retunung to their assistance. The travellin<r that
night was fairly good, and the men Merc somewhat cheered by
the sight of the sun, which then was above the horizon at mid-
night. After passing Cape Sumner there was so much rubble
and broken ice that, on arriving at Polaris Boat Camp, after ten

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:{02

tiii:i:k ykaks of auctic sKitvicio.

lionrs' travel, tlie sleclgo IJeuuinont liad bt'cn so badly injured as
to bo useless, the buttom being eonipletely worn out by friction
over Kbarjily pointed ice.

\'ic)lciit sriualls were exjwrienced at I'oat Camp, wliich broke
the pules and blew down the tent, driving the parties eventually
to snow-burrows. The wind was so violent that, while at work,
the men were frequently blown over, and one gust lifted tho
dog-sk'dge, with its load of two hundred ])ounds, b»»dily from
the irround. The sledge struck Ralston on the forehead,
knocking him several yards and injuring him severely. An at-
tempt to cook sujiper resulted only in the loss of the fuel, and
the party lunched on hard bi'ead and frozen meat. Urainard,
who was an nncomj)laining man of great endurance, says: "Wo
imagine that no other party in the Arctic regions lias ever
]»assed through discomforts sinnlar to those experienced by iia
during the jiast few hours, which have left us in a miseraldy
forlorn and dejected condition."

The party were at this camp forty hours before they wero
able to obtain a satisfactory meal. Tho air-holes in the snow-
houses continually tilled with drifting snow, and on an attempt
to cook a meal the alcohol lamp refused to burn on account of
the vitiated atmosphere. As the air-holes tilled up as rapidly
as made, they iimnediately dug out the entrance, when Whisler
fainted, and others suffered wretchedly from tho continement in
such bad air.

As Whisler complained of severe lung paiiis and commenced
spitting blood, and Diederbick was suffering with bladder trouble,
lieutenant Lockwood decided to send them back to Conger.
])iederbick, despite his wretched condition, assured Lieutenant
Lockwood that he would be responsil)le for AVhisler's safe re-
turn to Conger, where tiiey arrived in fair condition April l?Ah.
Connell and Henry had reached the station on the 8th. Dur-

rilK I AKTIIKST NOIM'H.

m:i

\u<f IIcnrv'H return, which whs nliglitly in advance of Connoll,
tlic ou\y i)ersonul cncuimter with a wnil' was experienced, lie
reported tiiat on entering the tunnel to the snow-house a liugo
wolf met liini, and running over Idd buck escaped. Later lie
claimed to have seen three wolves and that two of them fol-
lowed him to Dutch Islanil. Connell met a wolf hetweon Capo
15eechy and Depot " I!."

An Arctic Wuif, killutl nt;ar Foit l-or.gcr.

I /■'idiit mihiiliiuriiiili. 1

The party were employed until the l<Ilh in accuiuulating ut
Boat Camp the stores of Depot '" E " and those on the lloo in
Ikobeson Channel, which was accomplished under very diliicult
and discouraging circumstances.

A succession of violent gales rendered It almost impossible
for the party to do uoik oi' any kind. Their tents were repeat-
edly blown down, their travelling-gear scattered, their sleeping-
bags so badly frozen that at times the strength of foiu' men was
required to open them; and, worse than all. the conditions were
."^uch that the proper ])reparation of their meals was nearly ini-

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304

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

possible. A new peril filso threatened them along the Green-
land coast south uf Cape Stunner. Sergeant Brainard says:
'* From the high cliff, huge rocks were blown which came
crashing down to the very edge of the floe, endangeriiig our
lives and warning -is that travelling un the ice-foot was too
dangerous to be persisted in. In passing a narrow ravine a
beautiful cascade of snow was seen, being formed ])y the wind
rusiiing violently down a narrow, rocky cut in the face of an
abrupt clift', carrying with it a small and constant amount of lino
snow, which leaped from rock to rock, resembling a silver moun-
tain stream falling from a .-eries of ledges."

While this work was progressing, Lieutenant Lockwood, feai*-
ing that tlie runners of the (k)g-sledgo would not last because of
the rough ice, i-eturned to Fort Conger and obtained an extra
set, which were taken along for emergencies.

While at .Boat ("amp violent storms, and the scattered condi-
tion of the stores, prevented constant watch over the dogs, and
they succeeded in stealing about forty pounds of bacon and
beef. Fortunately the large amount of stores transpo'-tcd to
that point prevented any iiiconvenience from this loss, wiiicu
otherwise might have had very serious results. The necessity
of packing the meat for the journey in light muslin bags facili-
tated the theft.

Ex.'i.minin •; ^hc sledges after this work, Lieutenant Lockwood
deeideu tha two were unser\ i''eable, which left but two for
further work, lie expected to o1)tain a third at Cape Beechy,
l)ut, on visiting that depot, discovered that it had been so dis-
placed that, owing to the snow, he was unal'le to find it. In
place o? the injured sledges, the Xares was extemporized from
the extra dog-sled<<:o runnert, and slats.

One of the violent gales v.'renc!ied tho cedar boat, cached bj'
{Sergeant Lrainard at the (rap, from its bed and rendered it un

Hill

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300

Tiii:i:i: ykaiis of akctic sehvice.

serviceable; it must have been lifted bodily ami blown a con-
siderable distance, as it was found on tlie ice-foot.

At 10 j'.M. of A])iil IGtli, tlic i)arty started from Boat Camp
for their northern trip, taking three hundred rations. Lieu-
tenant Ixickwood was in advance, hauling about eight himdred
pounds with a team of eight dogs. Then came, second, tlie largo
sledge Xares, drawn b^' Sergeants Iji'ainai'd and Kalston and
Corporal Salor ; estimated amount drawn by each man, two
lumdred and seventeen pound.-.. Third, the Hudson ]>ay sledge,
Hall, drawn by Sergeant Jewell loid Private Frederick ; esti-
mated amount draggeii by each, one hundred and lifty pounds.
Fourth, the Hudson 15ay sledge, Hayes, dragged by Sergeant
Lynn and ('(Upural I'llison ; estinuited amount dragged by each,
• 'lie hundred a)id lifty pounds.

The average weight drawn by each man was one lumdred and
eighty-two pounds, and by each dog one hundred pounds. The
"constant weights " of the dog-sledge M'ere two hundred and
forty-three pounds, and of the remaining sledges three hundred
and si'venty-iivc jHJunds.

Eight hours' travelling brought the party to what was sup-
posed to be the mouth of (iap N'allcy, but it eventually pi'oved
to be a ravine (Rocky (Jorge) considerably farther to the east-
ward. Here they canijHMl.

Aftei' Irenieiiilous exertions, consequent on the overland
travi'lling, the ontii'c party ivarhcd the sea-coast a little to the
eastward wf lfcpul>e Harbor, <-in the morning of .\pril L'2d,
after Jive *lay.s' travel. Their journey was much prolonged, and
their dilHculties increased, by their eiior in I'egard to the (Jap
^ alley. Tiiey travelled instead through (Jtu-ge C.eek and Lost
IJiver ( 'anons. a series of tortuous, winding raviiii'-^, wlut-h
greatly lengthened their route, as well as taxed their strength
by compelling theiri to cro.-s a ilivide of considerable elevation

THE FARTHEST NORTH.

•M)7

above tlie se;i. On the 2()tli of April the temperature in those
raviues fell to —40° (—40° G.), an unprecedentedly low tem-
pi." rature for such a late season of the year.

The character of the ruute i)asseci over Js shown by the fol-
lowing extracts from Lieutenant Lock wood's diary. On the
ITtli of April he reconnoitred Rocky Gorge, the grade of
which was at first easy. The following day he says : " AVe camo
to the narrow gorge referred to. Its vertical sides were but a
fi'W feet apart ; under foot the stones wei'e exposed. Passing
this the stream-bed widened and ran ' "^tween sloping hills, but
we encountered at the same time deep, soft snow. This was
the general character of the travelling — ravines with soft l-.ow,
varied by gorges at intervals, with exposed stones and frag-
ments of rocks. The stream is very tortuous, but the grade
very slight its entire length, except when interrupted here
and tliei'e by low banks of drifted snow. Its general course, as
near as I could judge, is southwest."

" April 18th we came to a fork of the ravine coming in
from the north ; the first branch of the main stream which
seemed to offer a practicable route to the north. One or two
had been passed, but tliey were so narrow and steep — mere
gullies— as to foi'bid the assumption that they formed part of
Lieutenant Beaumont's route. It was the route of this oficer,
as laid down on his map, that I was endeavoring to follow.
However, I ''ontinueil on. but a few hundred yards beyond, see-
ing the stream bearing decidedly to the east, I left the sledge,
ami, ascending a low slo|)e to the left, soon found myself in a
'divide' very similar to the * divides' of the western prairies.
To the north the 'breaks* of water-courses miming in that
direction could be seen. On the slope alluded to I saw a bird,
to which Frederik gives the Eskimo name for eagle ; was un-
able to get a shot. . . . A short distance beyond found my-

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308

TIIUKK YEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

self on a level plain, its broad expanse stretching ont for miles
all aronnd. The weather was overcast, threatening snow, but I
could see the ' breaks' to the north, and aftei an hour's travel-
ling reached them — the snow affording very good travelling —
to find myself in a water-course quite broad and offering
a very good route ; the snow was generally hard ; but few
stones were exposed to view through it. The general course of
the stream seems northwest ; it is very pietures(]ue. ^Vbout
7.15 A.M. I came to what looks like a gateway opening into a
street, a canon running east and west, and so level that it was
with maiiv doubts I concluded to the left was down stream
(Lost Eiver)."

On A])ril 2(Hh, in a recomioissancc to determine his exact
location, he says: " ^Vf ter proceeding half a mile the cafion
changed into a wide valley, bordered by slophig hills, which, at
a little distance back, assumed the proportion of mountains.
Passing the point of a hill, which hid the view ahead like a
cape, the valley was seen to continue on in a direction a little
north of west until closed up entirely, aj>parently by a low range
of hills. At 11.45 A.M. we reached this place, and found a
narrow gap. I here delayed thirty minutes and ascended a hill,
but could see little save another valley-like expanse ahead, which
seemed to turn to the iiortli. In half an hour more we were
opposite this opening to the north, and saw the iloebergs lining
the long-looked-for coast. On our light and left were low,
sloping points about half a mile distant from each other; be-
hind us v/ai a seMii-circle of hills and mouiitains, ami before us
a level delta of bare stones. A few feet more in the elevation
of the polar basin would make a bay of this place : it was
doubtless the bed of one some time in the past."

Proceeding toward the sea Lieutenant Lockwood says :
"About a half mile from the coast 1 found an old piece of

low,

THE FARTHEST NOKTH.

;?()9

drift-wood iiho\\\ six feet loiiir, four inches wide, and four
inches thick, pine or lir apiKirently, and evidently split from
the body or branch of a tree. It was partially buried.''

Sergeant ]]rainard".s fiekl notes speak of the journey as pain-
fully laborious. April isth he says: "Men all very tired;
Jewell especially appears badly used uj), although he displayed
plenty of pluck in remaining in the drag-ropes to the last
moment." They were obliged to double up their crows, travel
three to five times over the road, and he continued, "to add
to our discomforts, aside from the severe strain of tramping
through snow knee-deep and more, there was a high wind with
snow blowing directly in our faces. . . . Lcsides, the crust
breaks just as we put our weight on the drair s for a strong
pull ; this taxes the strength severely, and ^ • on break down
the hard workers." April I'Jth , "The ; Jge often sinks to
the slats, making it necessary to resort to standing pulls. . . .
Xares, the improvised sledge, d •agging on slats almost con-
stantly, Init Hudson JJays glidf, over snow without sinking
much."

The lime-jnicc jiemmican, so highly recommended by theo-
retical authorities, proved very distasteful, and could t)nly he
eaten raw; and, then, between the frozen lime-juice and solid
meat their lips and mouths became sore.

IJrainard writes : " Tlie majority of the party complain of
sleeping cold, and the rest assert that they obtain no sleep at
all. This no doubt is owing to the condition of the sleeping-
bags, which wei'o frozen so badly on cam[)ing this morning that
three men were requii'ccl to uiu'oll them, and we were obliged to
thaw ourselves gradually into them." April L'lst: "We en-
countered sand-bars and gravel-beds, which could not be avoid-
ed, and necessarily our laI)or was very severe and tedious, and
frtMjuent standing pulls became necessary. This with a north-

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310

TirUEK YKAIIS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

cast wind of about twenty miles an hour, . . . Advanced
the remaining Hudson J>ay sledge in face of a terrific gale,
which drove the living snow against our faces with a force and
power equal to liandfuls of gravel thrown by the strongest arm.
This caut^ed a painful smarting sensation, so intense as to be
one of our most disagreeable e.\])criences. The i)arty is nnu'h
worn out by the extra work. I think eight hours' labor suf-
ficient, and hereafter will coniine myself strictly to that, except
under special circumstances."'

On the morning of April 22d the entire party again camped
together, in the face of a raging storm, on the lee side of some
huge Hoebergs a short distance to the eastward of Repulse
IIarl)or. Lieutenant Lockwood's party, despairing of getting
their large tent to stand, pitched their small shelter-tent, which
would hardly hold them on account of the rapidly drifting snow
which soon covered it. " AVHiile at supper," says JJeutenant
Lockwood, " some of the dogs tiiought my bag a good place to
rest, and we returned to find it covered witii snow. Itemaiued
in bag the rest of the day, missing supper in the largo tent.''
t^ergeant I'rainard, enumerating other discomfort.-;, says :
'• Our position while .sleei)ing {{) is necessarily very cramped,
the sleeping-bags being jit half-mast, i.e., our bodies on the
ground and our legs run up against the tent-pole, and even
then only about half our bodies can be inserted. Wind is esti-
mated at forty miles jier hour. The trials oC an .\rctic cook
arc numerous and irkRome, .sorely trying to the patience and
temper of those called to tliat otHce. After the fierce storm
had slightly abated, 'Shorty' ( l-'ivderick) found the cooking ap-
paratus all correct except the fuel, which was outside under a
liuge drift. The deep di'ifts not only covered the sidi-.s of tlie
tent. l)nt also completely closed the entrance, making it neces-
sary for him to tunnel his wav through to iiet outside, where a

TIIH FAllTIIEST XOIITII.

.311

new diflk'ultv aro-se. Tlio fuel was under four feet of snow,
whicli also covered the sliovel.s. Despite the high wind that,
sweeping around the berg, threatened to blow him away, he
was not a moment discouraged; but, with bare hands, com-
menced manfully digging into the liard drift, occasionally utter-
ing a deep groan, aii<l calling down maledictions on Arctic
work in general. 11 neal, however, was an exceller.L one,
and, after getting warmed thoroughly over the lamp while
cooking, he seemed to forget all his recent troubles, and the
bright side of his usually genial nature came bubbling to the
surface."'

"The storm raged till early morning of the 23d. . . .
The dogs ate up all the bacon left, about twenty pounds, and
about half as much English beef, during our sleep. It was
packed on the Xares, and out of their reach it was thought."

A rumier of the dog-sledge broke near this camp, and in mov-
ing forward, on .\pril 23^1, it was necessary to replace it by e.\-
chanijinir ruiuiers with the Xares. Sergeant Elisou succeeded
in renairinjji; tiie runner for the Nares, l)ut it u'ave wav com-
pletely in a rinigh place, and the; Ii)ad was moved foi'ward by
lashing together the two Hudson May sledges and putting on it
the loads previously carried l»y the three sledges. This im-
provised sledge was hauled uidy with great effort, as it dragged
like a harrow. They camped about a mile west oi I>lack Horn
Cliffs, at a point where they were ilriven fiom the ice-foot to
the iuain tloe, to reach which they were obliged to cut a route
for a half mil(! or more; tlu'ough adjacent rubble-ice.

"At and beyond Drift Point,"' says Lieutenant Lockwood,
"the snow-slopes and soft snow were met with, and it became
necessary to 'double-u]).' /.t'., advance by lialf loads."

SergeaTit Ilrainard's tield notes of the same march record :

"Kot far from canqi 1 I'ouiid a seal-hole newly made, and

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812

TIIKKK YKAIS OF AltCTIC SKRYTn-:

traces of that animal in iIk- t-now wliicli had lately fallen,
showing that he liad liecoiiie alarmed at onr approach, and
liad sought safety under the ice. . . . After passing Drift
Point we encountered snow-slojjes, which made jirogress slow
and tedious, and drove the party in desjtair altei'nately to tho
tangled rnbhle-ice and the sharp, dilHcuit snow-drifts. Tho
slopes are formed Ijv the snow blowing from a rather al)ru])t
hill to a ridge t)f gigantic Hoe-bergs grounded at its base, tilling
entirely the interveniiigspace, except next the bergs themselves,
where the eddying wind prevents the snow fmm drifting in.
These clefts, from liftecn to twenty feet deep, and at a sharp
incline, make tho snow-slopes very dangerous surface tt) travel
over, as the sledge is liable at any move to escape the control
of those who ai'e liauling it and slide into this deep space, even
if it does not drag down the unfortunate sledge-men."'

Sergeant Ih'ainard's experiences illustrate the great distance
at which high land i.:ui be seen on clear days. Fi'om the east-
ern eiul of ];iack Horn Cliffs, on April 24th, he says: "The
clear pellucid nature of the atmosphere was such that Capes
Sheridan, I'nion and Black Cape, as well as sevcial jioints in
the I'nited States range of mountains wore seen, the distance
being nearly fifty miles. . . . Tfiupi'rature 11" ( — 15.6° C).
The hot blazing sun is thawing tho surface of the black, dirty
snow near the cliffs, and in e()nse<]uence our moccasins are com-
pletely wet through."' .

About this time my letter was I'cad to the party by Lieu-
tenant Lockwood, in wliieh I pronused a conditional reward of
5?900 and upward, contingent on making a northing surpassing
any ever before attained. Lieutenant Lockwood offered fifty
per cent, additional i-eward. The amount was to be distributed
in such ])roportions as Lieutenant Lockwood should judge each
inan"s work merited. I doubt if tlie question of reward ever

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TIIK FAHTIIKST XOltTII.

313

entered into ;my man's (Ik mights dnrini;' all the extraordinary
suffering jukI exposure to which this journey subjected liini, hut
it seemed a proper intinuition that success would be in some
way rewarded.

The Appropriation Committee of the House of Representa-
tives, on a statement of the case by me, after my return, )'e-
ported fa'.'orabiy as to the assumption of both these rewards,
and Congress so enacted.

They started on tlieir tenth march, April 24th. I quote from
Lieutenant Lockwood's journal : " Opposite Hlack Horn Cliffs,
and extending a short distance this (the west) side, was a dear,
smooth tloe of ice (formed hist year, I su])pose), over whicli,
with a lieavy wind on our backs, we made rapid progress.
When opposite the fai'ther (eastei-n) end of the cliifs, and some
distance from shore, farther advance was stopped by a consid-
erable nuiss of rubble-ice." Finally, 1 found a route — some-
what circuitous — to the shore without much ditHculty, and con-
tinued on over a smooth, level floe (last year's ['J), which ex-
tended h;ilf way to the gorge. The rest of the way a good
route was found (ju a hard, gently sloping snow-slope, inside the
line of bergs and hununocks which here commenced to fringe
the shore. I saw two ptarmigan in winter plumage along here.
I found no cairn or provisions, though I went half a mile be-
yond the gorge. The violent wind made my return slow and
vci'v uncomfortable.''

They (,'amped east of and close to the IJlack I Kirn Cliffs.

On the morning of April I'.^tli the party were delayed a few
hours by the illness of Eskimo Frederik, who complained of
stomach trouble. Lieutenant Lockwood liiiully managed to get
him as far as llest (iorge, about two and a half miles to the
eastward of ]>lack Horn Cliffs, where he put him in the sleeping-
bag and gave him a drink of whiskey. There they camped.

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TIIKKK VKAi:s UF AltC'TlC SEliVICl':

Serficant IWainanl writes: "Wo have no way of knowing
exactly what ails him, ami lie has no way of making known his
wishes except hy sighs, which is a very unsatisfactory method of
talking. Mot knowing of any other remedy, a huge drink of
liot hrandy was given him, and wo soon liad the satisfaction
of learning that he was sleeping soundly, which report was
afterward contirmcd hy heai-ing Iiiin snore loud and deep
enough to almost cause the ice-foot to vihrate ; hopes were then
entertained of his speedy recovery, . . . The maj) of this
coast made by Lieutenant Ijeaumont is a model of accuracy and
coi'rectness ... as far as we are able to discover. The
two sledges Hayes and Hall arc now almost worn out and very
hai'd to drag."

During the afternoon Ilalston and Jewell succeeded in find-
ing the English cache at Stanton Gorge ; it was marked by a
cairn on a liill .somewhat back from the coast, and in a position
wliirli did not show up well to the westward.

'• nerore starting," (April '2<Uh) says Lieutenant Loekwood,
" we built a caii'n here, and left one day's rations for entire party
and the dogs, and also everything in the way of clothing, foot-
gear, etc., that could be spared.

" At Stanton (iorge, Sergeant Ilalston showed nie Beaumont's
cache, which was situated upon a 'shoulder' of the mountains
about a Inmdrcd feet high. This cache consistcl of I'oi-ty
rations, fifty-six ])ouuds sweet pemmican, ten pounds bacon,
and a metal box coiitaiiung the hard bread, potatoes, etc.; also
a can of rum which Sergeant Ilalston had brought down to
Ilest Gorge the previous day. T built up the cairn again, and
left a record of my movements to date, and took the rations to
the ice-foot, in order that they might be convenient to the dog-
sledge on its return, for I thought it desirable to take them on
to Cape liryant."

TITK FARTHEST NORTIf.

815

That evening the party camped near FrankficUl Bay, wlien
Lieutenant Lockwood records : " Tlie route from last camp led
us, as far as (.'ape Stanton, inside a line of tloebergs on a snosv-
slope quite steep in places, but generally hard on the surface,
and offering fair travelling. As an exception, however, it
should he stated that there is an ice-foot for some little distance
at Stanton (Jorge. Tlie travelling over Hand I5ay was also
quite good.*'

At this camp writes J*rainard :

" Tenq)erature -L>3.5° (-30.8° C). Very few of tlie party
obtained any sleep, owing to low temperature and frozen sleep-
ing-bag, in which much frost and dampness has accumulated the
past few days,"

At 7 A.M., April 'JTtli, the ])arty left their camp opposite
Mount L(jwe and marched to Capo l>ryant.

Lieutenant Lockwood says : " Travelling rather heavy (over
snow-covered ice-foot). At i).25 a.m. reached east shore of Frank-
lield Cay. On the way the snow was generally hard ami good.
From here the only route, or at least the best route forward,
was over the foot of a hill, the ascent ratlicr bleep, and the
slope quite so ; the snow on it had packed hard and smooth.''

" 1 saw four ptarmigan and killed three with the shotgun.
Frederik had, some time before, when by himself, killed two
with the pistol. This pistol, which had a wooden stock, sinu-
lar to a gun's, lixed to it, was habitually carried on the sledge."

"The travelling since leaving Franktield Hay has been along
a low fore shore, excepting two or three indentations of the
coast where we crossed old iioes. Along the shore we travelled
over a snow-covered ice-foot, or what is generally called an ice-
foot (?); sometimes (jood and sometimes Ji^^/, never v,r/'y bad.
Over the tloes referred to it was generally (piite fair."

The main party reached Cape Bryant, b i'..-si., April 27tli,

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THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

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temperature —1^° (—25.6° C), after over eleven hours' steady
work in the drag-ropes. Not only were they all J\early worn
down by the exhausting effects of previous hard work and ex-
posure, but Sergeants Brainard and Ralston had been suffering
from snow-blindness, and Private Frederick from an injured
knee. The party consequently remained at Cape Bi*yant April
28th, recuperating and preparing for further work.

Lieutenant Lockwood decided to send back the supporting
party, and advance with the dog-sledge and two men. lie
writes :

" Personally inspected the Hudson Bay sledges, and was con-
firmed in the declaration of all the men that they were entirely
unserviceable for further use. One I cut up and made slats
for the dog-sledge ; the other was repaired sufficiently to carry
the constant weights of Sergeant Lynn's party on their i-eturn to
Boat Camp."

" After this I built a cairn on the slope of the hill, perhaps
a quarter mile from the shore, and deposited inside the forty
English rations, all our own that were surplus, the gun, etc., and
everything I thought we could do without. I also left a rec-
ord. Sergeant Brainard suffered severely from snow-blindness
during the day and had to remain in the tent."

" Cape Britannia was dimly visible ; later in the day it was
quite distinct. The view is so well represented in Lieutenant
Beaumont's journal, that I will not attempt to describe it. Ser-
geants Brainard, Ralston, and Elison went along the coast to the
south to find Lieutenant Beaumont's cache, or cairn, but were
unsuccessful."

From the sunnnit of Cape Fulford, which was visited by
Sergeants Ralston, Elison, and himself, Sergeant Brainard says :
" The east side of Sherard Osborn Fiord, with its mountains
and capes, was distinctly outlined, and appeared much nearer

THE FARTHEST NORTH.

317

than the distance given on the map. The appearance of the
ice in tlie fiord encouraged us very much. Its surface has an
undulating appearance peculiar to ice which seldom breaks up,
and is studded here and there by small hummocks." The zeal
and activity of the members of this party could not be more
strikingly illustrated than by their tramp of twelve miles on
a resting day, in such a country, in order to familiarize them-
selves with their surroundings.

The journey of Lieutenant Lockwood's supporting party,
which here terminated, was an extraordinary one, considering
the chai'acter of the ice, the loads drawn, the stormy weather,
and the temperatures to which they were subjected. In his
noted journeys, made about six hundred miles farther south and
over ordinary ice, the famous sledge-traveller, McClintock,
averaged only two and a quarter miles daily more than this party.

The experiences of McClintock, more varied than of any
other Arctic explorer, show the advisability of sledging with
dogs. In seven journeys, covering over three thousand miles,
his men travelled eleven and one-third miles daily. "With both
men and dogs he later averaged twelve and a half miles daily,
and with dogs alone twenty-four miles daily. The comparison
between the man-system, under an officer of extraordinary
energy — Lieutenant Beaumont — and the mixed system, which
I follovred perforce, should also be convincing in favor of dogs.
Lieutenant Beaumont made his trip from Discovery Harbor
(Fort Conger) to Cape Bryant in thirty-one marches, travelling
via Floeberg Beach, and with a mean temperature of —13°
(-25° C), ranging from W (-10 C.) to -45° (-42.8° C).
He travelled one hundred and eighty-three miles to make his
distance of one hundred and thirty -four miles.

Lieutenant Lockwood's supporting party travelled from Conger
(Discovery Harbor) to Cape Bryant, via Polaris Boat Camp and

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318

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

Gorge Creek, in eighteen marches, with temperatures ranging
from 14.5° (-9.7° C.) to -48.8° (-44.9° C), and a mean
of -11° (—23.9° C). They marched about one hundred and
sixty miles to pass over their route of one hundred and twenty-
one miles.

The difference between the six miles made daily by Lieu-
tenant Beaumont's men and nine by Sergeant Brainard and his
associates resulted from the contrasted loads, especially the con-
stant weights. It was the unanimous opinion of my men that
they were worked up to their last pound of strength, and that
the weight of two hundred and twenty-five pounds per man,
hauled by Beaumont from Repulse Harbor, would have broken
them down.

Of the two hundred and twenty-five pounds hauled by Beau-
mont's seven men, ninety-five and one-half pounds per man
figured as constant weights, which they not only hauled to
Bryant, but part of the way back. The constant weights of
Sergeant Brainard and six men were sixty-two and a half
pounds on leaving Cape Sumner, which would not have ex-
ceeded seventy pounds per man if Lieutenant Lockwood, with
his baggage, had joined them. The total weight drawn by
each man was one hundred and eighty-two pounds. Conse-
quently on starting Lieutenant Beaumont's men hauled forty-
three pounds each more than the men of Lieutenant Lockwood's
supporting party, twenty-five pounds of which were constant
weights.

The abandonment of one sledge and caching certain useless
articles reduced the constant weights of our men to forty-seven
pounds at Black Horn Cliffs. They were farther assisted on
their totals by Lieutenant Lockwood with the dog-sledge, on
special occasions where bad travel obliged doubling up, which
somewhat reduced their labor.

THE FARTHEST NORTH.

319

Lieutenant Lockwood marched with dog-sledge from Conger
to Bryant in tliirteen journeys. He travelled two hundred and
uiaety miles, although the distance was but one hundred and
twenty-one miles, the remaining travel being in doubling up
or in side journeys. His actual marches averaged eleven hours
each, during which he made twenty-two miles daily.

Fourteen to fifteen hours of daily work and exposure, in
storm with driving snow, or with clear, balmy air, and zero
temperatures, brought them to Bryant at that early day, and
made success seem certain.

^•iii

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CHAPTER XXIV.

THE FARTHEST NORTH. — OAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASH-
INGTON.

JOURNEY OF LIEUTENANT LOCKWOOD AND SERGEANT BRAINARIl.

IITAY 29th Sergeant Lynn turned back for Polaris Boat
•^ "*■ Camp with tlie supporting party, while Lieutenant Lock-
wood, with Brainard and Christiansen, turned his face north-
ward over the frozen sea.

"I selected Sergeant Brainard to accompany Fredei-ik and
myself," says Lieutenant Lockwood, " and made up a list of
seventy-five rations, suflScient for twenty-five days' absence
from Bryant, viz. :

Pounds.

Peininican (lime-juice) 4:0

Musk-meat (frozen in tins) S-t

Sausage and English beef 17

Beans, Boston baked 19

Potatoes, evaporated 5

Cranberry sauce (three cans) -i^

Tea.....' 2

Chocolate 3

Siigar 10

Lime-juice (frozen in cakes} 2^^

Hard bread 00

Milk H

Alcohol 19

Total 227*

"The constant weights, etc., consisted of 1 'A' tent, poles
and pins ; 2 sleeping-bags (one bufPalo and one dog-skin), 1 cook-

war"

CAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASHINGTON.

321

ing-lamp, 1 rubber blanket, 1 axe, 1 spade, 1 hatchet, 1 pistol,
1 sextant, 1 sledge-runner (extra), 1 shelter-tent, 1 small cook-
ing-lamp (extra), 2 '">airs of snow-shoes, 1 catch-all bag, contain-
ing ammunition, cups, plates, spoons, sounding-line and lead,
brush, record-cases, tin funnel, measure cup, chopping-board,
etc. ; 3 clothesbags (individual weights given elsewhere), and
sledge (80 pounds). Total constant weights, 256 pounds.

" Dog pemmican (3 sacks) 300 pounds ; total amount drawn by
^ dogs, 783^ pounds ; or an average for each dog at starting
of (about) 98 pounds.

" At 4.47 r.M. I left with dog-sledge. Sergeant Brainard, and
Frederik (Eskimo), taking a course toward Cape May. The
weather continued delightful. Found the floes quite hard and
level, interrupted only by occasional low detached hummocks,
on which the drifted snow made our progress very satisfactory.
When nearly opposite Dragon Point, however, the snow-crust
seemed to weaken, and the sledge frequently sank to the slats,
requiring our united exertions 1 o niove it."

Brainard's field notes say : " The dog3, not being accustomed
to hauling such heavy weights, sit down aj soon as the runners
cut through the crust, . . . and complacently watch us, with
a puzzled expression, . . . until we lift the sledge bodily
and place it on the firm crust."

On April 30th, Lieutenant Lockwood, at " 1 a.m., camped op-
posite Dragon Point, the dogs being much exhausted by such a
heavy load. The clearest day I have yet seen ; no wind. Tem-
perature lower than usual. 4 a.:m. : Finished supper. 4.20 a.m. :
Thermometer, 1° (—16.7° C.) ; barometer, 29.35. Halts during
march for relashing, about thirty minutes in all. Lieutenant
Beaumont's sketches and descriptions of this section are very
good, as well as I could judge by the eye."

At 5.22 P.M. he again started, and soon found " the dragging
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323

THREE TEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

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very heavy and fatiguing, snow sometimes knee-deep, the sledge
coming to a stand-still repeatedly. On these occasions the dogs
complacently sit on their haunches and observe the operation of
pulling it out, which falls to us. After dropping half the load
the travelling seemed to improve, due, possibly, to a slight change
of direction, which brought us on a line with Cape Britannia.
Sergeant Brainard quite over his snow-blindness. "We find the
lime-juice pemmican very unsatisfactory, and eat it only with
great reluctance. Cape Britannia is very distinct, due, probably,
to the remarkable refraction of the atmosphere. Beaumont
Island pre.' ented the appearance of one island on top of another,
tixe first inverted. 4.15 a.m.: Turned in."

At 4.25 P.M., May 1st, they started with whole load, but
Lieutenant Lockwood soon dropped half with Brainard, and,
going on himself, " stopped at an old floeberg, and, taking off
load, sent sledge back for remainder. Character of the ice
better, so that I have determined to try hauling everything at
once. The floes in sight very large, broken at long intervals
. with ranges of low hunnnocks ; isolated mounds scattered here
and there. All covered with snow. The floes in places are
slightly undulating. 7.48 p.m. : Thermometer, -1°(-18.3°C.)."

Lieuteiuvnt Lockwood diu-ing that march gave up all idea of
visiting Cape May, as he found the roads better to the north,
and travelled direct for Cape Britannia, lie camped " hardly
more than five miles from Cape May. The large floe last re-
ferred to extends north as far as I could see. Supper consisted
of tea, lime-juice pemmican, hard bread, and a stew (?) of beans
and cracker-dust ; the allowance of alcohol only sufiicient to
melt the ice and warm the water ; the stew was cold. 9.15
A.M. : Turned in."

" Brainard and I didn't sleep much. The Eskimo invariably
snores two minutes after he composes himself to rest. Took a

CAPE BUY ANT TO CAPE WASHINGTON.

323

number of compass bearings of different points very carefully,
and was disappointed to find the instrument no better tban bo-
fore. I liad spent some time yesterday in trying to mend it.
There seems to be a want of magnetism."

They started north at 8 p.m., May 2d, but twenty standing pulls
in as many minutes obliged them to drop half the load. Shortly
after Lieutenant Lockwood " attempted a sketch of Stephenson
Island — an island to all appearances from here. Saw wolf and
fox tracks going north some distance back. Noticed a line of
hnmmocky ice extending from Beaumont Island in the direc-
tion of Cape May. Doubled up just m time, the travelling since,

Stephenson Island from Cape Britannia.
[From sketch by Lt. Lockwomt. I

up to this spot, being soft and deep, sometimes nearly up to the
knees. 10.45 p.m. came to a crack in the ice, which seemed to
follow the lines of hummocky ice referred to. This crack,
when first met, was in width the length of a tent-pole, and full
of free water and ' sludge ' about two feet, as I remember, be-
low the level of the edge of the ice. Following it south a few
hundred feet, we found two or three cracks, but only two feet
or a little more wide, so there was no difficulty in crossing.
This place was at the intersection (approximate) of a line from
Cape Britannia to Cape Bryant with another between Cape May
and Beaumont Island. This being a good opportunity to get the

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324

THREE TEARS OP ARCTIC SERVICE.

I (

depth, I sent Frederik back for Sergeant Brainard and the load
— the lead and Ihio not being with me."

" May 3d, 1.07 a.m. : Dog-team back again. The dogs al-
ways travel much faster going back or forward over a trail.
Selecting a good spot, I gave Sergeant Brainard the line ; it ran
out its full length without touching bottom. I then attached in
succession four coils of seal-thong, a long piece of rope, and
finally Frederik's whip ; all with the same result, no bottom.
Having nothing now left but the traces of the dogs, we began
drawing the lino back, while considering if these should be
risked. I had attempted to measure it exactly by arm-lengths
as it went down, but found this inconvenient and decided to
wait till we got it all out. We drew out the whip and part
of the rope, when the latter suddenly parted, and of course the
rest was lost. The rope was about half an inch in diameter, and
would hardly be thought the first part of the line to give way.
The approximate length of line below surface is as follows : Rope,
including whip, 1*18 feet ; four coils thong, 240 feet ; four cod-
lines, ea(!h 108 feet— 432 ; total, 820 feet. "Weight of lead six
pounds. Thus, besides tlie loss of the line, all farther attempts
at sounding were prevented."

Of the tidal crack Sergeant Brainard's notes say : " At this
point (the first reached) the crack opens about six feet wide,
and branches a short distance to the north into three distinct
openings, each of about the same width as the main one. This
would seem to indicate that some strong current from the
Greenland shore existed, for this is firm ice apparently wrenched
apart by some strong movement of the sea."

Lieutenant Lockwood writes : " At 2 a.m. proceeded en route
with half load. In the course of a quai'ter of an hour passed a
narrow line or belt of low hummocks seemingly parallel to the
ice-crack. After this was an immense level floe, which extended

|!| ■;

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4^:

II)

-SIS" 30

Lougitudi*

West «'

CAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASHINGTON.

820

to the right and Inft and ahead as far as I could see ; it was
difficult to perceive the smallest break or uncTenness in its great
expanse. At 3 a.m. met a little mound of snow-ice, which, as it
saved the melting of snow for water, I camped alongside of.
Bearings frjni this camp : Beaumont Island east-southeast ;
Cape Britannia southeast by south ; Stephenson Island south-
west by south ; Cape May northwest by west (all magnetic).
At 5.30 r.M. thermometer 19 (— 7.2°C.)." These bearings were
from a pocket-compass that Lieutenant Lockwood used after
finding the prismatic compass to bo unserviceable.

They started at 6 i'.m., May 3d, and at "8.28-8.35 r.M.
stopped for rest at a lino of very low, hummocky ice, which
sweeps in a curve to the northeast on one hand, and on the
other to the southwest toward Cape May. The floe we now
saw before us was an unbroken expanse of level snow, and
seemed to continue thus and occupy the whole space between
Beaumont and Stephenson Islands and Cape Britannia, remind-
ing me very much of the plains of the West ; crust quite hard
and firm, enabling us to carry everything at once. At 9.35
P.M., intersection of route with a line between Beaumont and
Stephenson Islands."

After fourteen hours' travel, during Avhich they travelled
thirty miles to make good fourteen, the party camped within
about five miles of Cape Britannia.

Sergeant Brainard at this camp records : " Cape Britannia is
now M'ithin our grasp. . . . Wo got into our damp, cheer-
less sleeping-bag with lighter hearts and in a more amiable frame
of mind than for weeks. Even the dusky Greenlander has im-
bibed some of our spirit (doubtless inspired somewhat by Lieu-
tenant Lockwood's recent promise of a hundred crowns if he
reached Cape Britannia), and, sitting up in his dog-skin bag, takes
mental note of everything which passes, with a delighted grin

5 1

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KETCH OF "FARTHEST" FROM THE WEST

J'-A- ,

NEXT POINT BEYOND FARTHEST

CHART OF DISCOVERIES

NOHTH UREKNLAI

J, B. LOCKWOOD, LIEUT„23D INF. U. S. A.

AocDiiiiwii.viinc rv|i<)rt of akiltfi' Jourmy U'twwi
8<1 iiuil .liMu 1st, 1882. Till' iiraat Hue west of Coi)0
ta'tun from Uiut. lUuuiuout's map.

Oiilu\n-d Tnick IMurn —

QCOGRAPHICAl MILC^

Wist 46 1 f'om Uiviuwlrli

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^ "FARTHEST" FROM THE WEST

POINT BEYOND FARTHEST

HART OF DISCOVERIES

UAKK IN

LH (fREKNLAND

3CKW00D, LIEUT„23D INF. U. S. A.

.viiikt niKiit of alutltfi' Jourmy t»>tw<)i'ii April
St, 1882. Till' louat Hue west of CoiJO Miij- 1»
li'iit. lU'UUiuuut'd luup.

\irU ri-ui'fc lieturn-

OeOCRAPHlCAl MILES

To «r

« l.h

i^m

326

THREE TEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

ill !

overspreading his shining, good-natured countenance. . . .
Stephenson Island is a very liigh rocky mass, oblong in shape,
with nearly vertical cliffs, notched here and there by deep ravines,
from two of which pass small glaciers, one nearly discharging.
Tlio remainder of the coast to Britannia is broken and moun-
tainous, with two or three glaciers."

" The dogs during our sleep got at the pemmican, which was
buried as us- .al under the sledge, and ate their allowance for
two and a half days." *

An hour and a half of good travel, on May 5th, brought them
to land before untrodden by man, and thenceforward every-
thing was doubly new.

" At 7.53 P.M. : Reached Cape Britannia ; the line of demarca-
tion between the floe and the shore-ice was very slight, and only
indicated by one or more indistinct cracks. "lAf ter pitching the
tent on the ice-foot, we proceeded to build a cah-n about seven
feet high, twenty or thirty yards above, on the side of a little
ravine just below the cliff. In it I deposited a record of my
journey, five days' rations, three days' dog-food, the extra sledge-
runner, shelter-tent, little lamp, and the snow-shoes. The last
three articles were brought along in case the snow east of Cape
Bryant was too deep to allow the dog-sledge to travel. I now
judged we could get along without them. After this I took an
observation for latitude. Frederik came in with a ptarmigan ;
it had commenced to change its plumage ; some of the feathers
were black."

" May 5th, 1 a.m. : Thermometer, 2^" (— 1G°.7 C.) ; barometer,
29.52 ; calm. Sergeant Brainard and I started for the top of
the cape or mountain. We followed the water-course referred
to ; the ascent was quite steep, with several intermediate crests or

* All quoted passages are from Lieutenant Lockwood's field journal, unless
otherwise stated.

CAPE BKYANT TO CAPE WASHINGTON.

327

ridges, each seeming from below to be the top. At 2.35 a.m.
reached the summit. Thermometer, 14^° (— 9°.7 C); barom-
eter, 27.32 ; windy. We were apparently on an island ; its most
northern limit ended in a bold headland, Cape Frederick, a half
dozen miles distant. Awav to the northeast, or a little south
of itj was a bold headland — some fifteen or twenty miles off —
the termination of a promontoi-y or island stretching to the
north. Between it and me were the projecting capes of three
similar bodies of land, farther to the right — all separated by
great fiords (Nordenskjuld and Chipp Inlets) stretching to the
south, and overlapping one another, so that little could be seen

Beaumont Island from Cape Britannia.
\From, sketch, by Lt. Lockwood. \

to the south of them but a confused :nas8 of snow-covered
peaks. (Tlancing around toward the north and west, the eye
rested on nothing but the ice-pack till Beaumont Island was
reached ; after that the mountains near Cape Bryant.

Stephenson Island is evidently an island (previously doubtful),
for tlio opening of a fiord (I^ares) that separates it from Cape
May can be seen, and on its east is an immense fiord (Victoria)
running to the south. The two fiords are to appearances
connected ; no land visible at the head of the large one. To
the east the coast trends to the southeast, forming with the
south side of B Itannia coast an inunense funnel, ending in a

l»-l

- '.■il 1

•

l\\

828

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

fiord. All to the south is an indistinct mass of snow-covered
mountains. We built a cairn on the summit (one thousand
nine hundred and fifty feet above the sea) and deposited a
record."

Brainard says : " Recent traces of hares, foxes, lemmings, and
older traces of musk-oxen discovered. . . . The abrupt, rugged
nature of the cliffs to the westward would not admit of their
being scaled, so we followed a deep, narrow ravine to the south-
ward. ... In the interior a succession of lofty mountain
peaks were visible, some of great elevation. They were not
arranged in a chain, but formed an irregular, ill-dellned mass.
Deep snow covered their summits, and an occasional glacier of
moderate dimensions could be seen struggling toward the sea
from out of the chaotic mass of snow-capped mountains."

The twentieth march, on May 5th, enabled them to round
Cape Frederick and camp opposite Nordenskjold Inlet. Travel
Avas first along an excellent ice-foot, but heavy ice, crowded
against the high, abrupt cliffs, soon drove them to the main floe.
During their march a deep, grinding noise indicated movement
of the floe-ice, the Eskimo being positive such was the case.
Lieutenant Lockwood going seaward to investigate;, " saw the
tide-crack, evidently a continuation of the one crossed west of
Britannia." Beyond Cape Frederick they struck "last years
ice ; it continued some distance and reached to the north sev-
eral hundred yards from shore. From Cape Frederick the tide-
crack continued toward Cape Emory, curving to the right en
route. It was plainly marked by a line of heaped-up, hum-
mocky ice, and by being the line separating the smooth and
ger.erally level floes inside from the rough pack without.
All inside the ice-crack seems one unbroken floe,
smooth and level, assuming an undulating surface in most places
near the ice-crack, caused by ranges of hummocky ice covered

CAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASHINGTON.

329

with snow-drifts." Lieutenant Lockwood got as the result of
his latitude observations 82° 51' N.

Near this camp Braiuard says : " An exclamation from Chris-
tiansen caused us to look around and halt the sledge. We were
astonished to observe unmistakable signs of open water — the
bright rays of the sun playuig over the lippliug surface of an
open pool. ... At the point we examined, it was about a
hundred yards wide, and looked as if it had been kept open
during the winter, as none of the debris had attained any con-
siderable thickness. Christiansen visited the pool later for seal,
but saw no signs of any. Fresh fox and hare tracks seen by
me near Cape Frederick. After camping, the dogs were run-
ning about like ravenous wolves, gnawing at everything, and
badly chewed and splintered the thermometer-box before it
could be secured. The ptarmigan lately shot was placed on
the ridge-pole for safety. A hasty rush of feet, and a heavy
body striking violently against the tent, caused us to rush out to
investigate this commotion. The ptarmigan was missing. A
few feathers in his bloody jaws marked the king-dog, Eiten-
benk, as the thief, notwithstanding his bland look of innocence."
Brainard's moccasins here gave out, after thirty -three days'
steady wear.

Their twenty-first march carried the party to Cape Bendt, the
western entrance of Mascart Inlet, which was reached 11.33 p.m..
May 6th, after over ten hours' travel, which exhausted both
men and dogs. During the march the tidal crack was fre-
quently seen and varied from one to a hundred yards in width,
being " covered with new ice, except when broken by pools or
lanes." Markham Island was apparently separated from the
main-land to the northeast by a narrow, deep fiord. Brainard
noticed three small glaciers on the shores of Chipp and Xoi-den-
skjold Inlets which nearly reached the sea.

id)

330

THREE YE Alls OF AKCTIC SERVICE.

The following notes of Sergeant Brainard are of interest in
connection with Lieutenant Lockwood's statement, that no dis-
tinctly paloeocrystic ice was seen to the northward or eastward
of Cape May :

" The ice met with on this coast appears to be of an entirely
different character from the large floes and floebergs so familiar
to the traveller on the Grinnell- Land coast. The hummocks
are all of small size, and no large floes or bergs are met with.
Iluf^e masses of ice form a wall which rises along the shore at

Looking into Cliipp Inlot.
[Fivm sketch by Lieutenant l,octwo(xi.]

all prominent headlands. It is most likely formed from large
quantities of rubble-ice being forced up by the tremendous
pressure of the polar pack, and subsequently cemented by the
summer eun iiito a compact mass resembling one immense
block of ice."

This camp proved prolific in aniinal life, thus indicating a
luxuriant vegetation near. Two ptarmigan were flying around,
a hare was captured, and traces of foxes and lemmings observed.

CAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASHINGTON.

331

Tracks of a passing bear, going to the northeast, were seen on
the ice-foot, and " abundant traces of musk-oxen were discov-
ered, proving that these animals frequent this place in consider-
able numbers, though the indications were not of recent date."

" The only excitement and recreation," says Sergeant Brain-
ard, " experienced since leaving Bryant occurred this morning
shortly after arriving in camp. It happened in this way : While
cutting ice for cooking purposes, 1 saw a hare on the slope just
above me, and fired twice without effect. Frederik, evidently
very much disgusted at my lack of marksmanship, took the gun
and wounded him twice, and immediately followed up his ad-
vantage with a shower of stones and Eskimo epithets. After
an exciting chase of over half an hour along the rocky slope, in
which the lieutenant and myself joined, the hare was captured."

Before starting that evening three days' rations were cached.

The twenty-second march carried them. May 7th, to Low
Point, 83° 07' N., which was of equal latitude with the most
northerly land ever before reached — Cape Columbia, Grinnell
Land, by Lieutenant Aldrich, ll.N,, 1876. Soft, deep snow,
sometimes to their thighs, made it the worst and most exhaust-
ing travelling since leaving Brevoort Peninsula. Distant Cape
was passed, " a grand headland of dark-lookjng rocks forming
a huge cliff," and far in advance appeared Cape Ramsay, which
at first was thought to be an island, but the thick snow which
had fallen during the whole march rendered it uncertain.
The only sign of life was a snow-bunting, the first seenj al-
though they had been heard before. The tidal crack was open
along their route the whole day. Lieutenant Lockwood says :
" Brainard and I very tired ; we both remarked a frequent feel-
ing of lassitude and weakness of late."

A fine march (the twenty-third), during which the dogs
trotted at times, brought them, in seventeen miles' travel,- to

I ■

i 's ■'-

hi^l

1 \

jmmiBm

332

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

V ■•

Pocket Bay, east of Cape Mohn, 83° 10' N. The fine travelling
encouraged the travellers, notwithstanding the high wind and
drifting snow. The land, which had been running due east,
now trended decidedly to the north, the much desired direction.
A lemming was caught during the march in Jewell Inlet, about
S3° 9' N".

" At this camp," says Sergeant Brainard, " the thieving pro-
pensities of our canine friends were developed to an unusual
degree. While we were sleeping they burst off the strings,
entered the tent, and stole our provision-bag and hare. They
•were so elated over the success of their raid that they forgot their
caution, and their retreat was not effected without considerable
noise, which awoke us. Everything was recovered, except a quar-
ter of the hare, which Eitenbenk contended was his lawful sJiare
of the game. His control as king-dog was admirable, for the rest
of the half-starved pack watched hiin quietly as he ate the hare."

On May 10th the explorers crossed De Long Fiord, construct-
ing, in passing, small cairns on the northern and southei-n points.
They were able to travel only by the wind, which was directly
at their backs, part of the time, as the coast was hidden by a
violent snow storm. The coast from Cape Hoffmeyer north was
a low, sloping shore, giving place in a short mile inland to a
" grand line of cliffs."

After nine and a half hours' march in high, cold winds and
drifting snow, during which they travelled twenty-two miles,
the party camped on Mary Murray Island, 83° 19' N.,42° 21' W.

This island, shaped like a shoe, proved to be "a nai'row, rocky
ridge projecting a few hundred feet above the level of the ice,
its top inaccessible except in a few places." From it three capes,
the farthest probably Cape Washington, could be seen.

The violence of the gale delayed them at this camp sixty-three
and a half hom-s. Latitude and time observations were obtained.

CAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASHINGTON.

333

Animal life existed, as several snow-buntings flew around, hare
tracks were noticed, and an unfortunate lemming was captured
by the dogs. It was difficult to say whether the party were the
most disturbed through mental anxiety and disappointment as
to farther advance or by physical suffering from cold and ex-
posure. The high wind, with the very low mean temperature
of 8° (—13.3 C), reduced their feet "to a condition," eays Ser-
geant Brainard, " not unlike a cake of ice. We frequently
changed our foot-gear, and rubbed our feet briskly with the
warm hand, but to no purpose." This unprecedented experi-
ence was attributed to camping on bare ice, but it more prob-
ably resulted from insufficient food, as they ate only at intervals
of fifteen, twenty-four, and nineteen hours, so as to enable them
to travel yet farther.

Their twenty-fifth and last march is thus described by Lieu-
tenant Lockwood :

"May 13th, 12.30 a.m.: Thermometer, 11° (-11.7° C.) ;
barometer, 29.30. Korthwest wind and snow, but the cape
ahead could be seen, and anything is preferable to cold feet,
which we have endured for sixty-two hours."

" Started at 1.45 a.m. after building a small cairn near-by. The
north cape of Wild Fiord disappeared from view shortly after
starting, but the travelling was very good near shore over ' blue
top floe,' and at 3.45 a.m. the cape was reached. Here, and
along the line of cliffs beyond which it terminates, immense
masses of bergs and hummocks were pressed so closely to the
foot of the cliffs that it was necessary to get outside on the floe.
A tortuous way was found to the top of this ice-wall, and the
sledge then lowered, by means of the traces, some fifteen feet or
more. For some distance we worked our way slowly through a
mass of rubble-ice, with the constant use of the axe, and crossed
two or three small lanes of water ; and beyond travelled for a

I I

; .,;.,

J'l

334

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

few hundred yards on :i 'clear' floe of last year's ice, when, at
5.30-6.15 A.M., we were stopped l)y imotlior load or lane of water.
The sun being discernible, I took an observation, and at the
same time sent Frederik to find a crossing. (This crossing, says
Sergeant Brainard, was dangerous, owing to thin and rotten ice.)
One being found, we continued over a floe of last year's ice at
quite a rapid gait on a line generally parallel to the clift's.
Presently the weather clearing, a large, wide inlet (Weyprecht
Inlet), with the cliffs and mountains on its farther side, opened
up to view, forming a grand panorama, the most remarkable
yet observed. To the right oblique the line of cliffs ended in a
cape, from which the coast turned abruptly to the south and
then ran in a curve toward the southeast, forming the western
shore of the inlet. Directly ahead was a pyramid-shaped island
(Lockwood Island) of considerable altitude, which ficemed to
touch the line of cliffs back of it, which ran almost north and
south, ending in a capo (Cape Kane) to the northeast of our
position, and on the other hand gradually curving back to the
southeast and forming the eastern side of the inlet, A little to
the right of the island referred to is another (Brainard Island),
apparently of a cone shape. The land to their rear towered
up to an enormous height, and formed a mountain certainly not
less than four thousand feet in height, completely dwarfing the
islands and cliffs beneath. The tide-crack, which we were now
on the outside of, ran in a great curve between the two capes,
at the extremities of the inlet, and was marked by a wall of
ice-huumaocks. Inside was a level surface of snow, covering a
floe which extended from shore to shore, and outside alternate
masses of rubble and smooth floes of last year's ice."

Ten hours' work carried them only sixteen miles, and, worn
out by travel through deep snow, they made their farthest camp at
the north end of Lockwood Island, which, by circum-meridian and

CAPE BRYANT TO CAPE WASHINGTON.

335

Bubpolar observations reduced by Gauss' method, was determined
to be in 83° 23.8' N., the highest latitude ever attained by man.

Of this event Sergeant Brainard's field notes say : " Wo have
reached a higher latitude than ever before reached by mortal
man, and on a land farther north than was supposed by many to
exist. We unfurled the glorious Stars and Stripes to the exhilai--
ating northern breezes with an exultation impossible to describe."

For three centuries England had held the honors of the
farthest north. The latitude of Hudson, 80° 23', in 1007, gave
way to'Phipps, who reached 80° 48' X. in 1773. Scoresby, the
elder, in 1800, reached 81° 12' 42" X. ; and, twenty-one years
later, came Parry's memorable journey, during which he reached
82° 45'. These latitudes were all attained in the Greenland
Sea. Inglefield opened to the world the Smith Sound route,
and in 1871 Meyer reached 82° 09', the highest on land, and
Payer, a year later, almost equalled Meyer by his sledge- journey
to Cape Fligely (82° 07'), Franz Josef Land. In 1870 Aldrich
surpassed Parry's famous latitude, and reached Cape Columbia,
83° 07' N., only to be surpassed on sea, a few weeks later, by
Markham, 83° 20' 20" K, during that journey over the Great
Frozen Sea in which such energy, persistency, and courage
were exhibited by the ofiicers and men of the Royal Xavy.

Xow Lockwood, profiting by the labors and experiences of
his " kin across the sea," surpassed their efforts of three cen-
turies by land and ocean. And with Lockwood's name should be
associated that of his inseparable sledge-companion, Brainard,
without whose efl&cient aid and restless energy, as Lockwood
said, the work could not have been accomplished.

So, with proper pride, they looked that day from their vantage-
ground of the farthest north (Lockwood Island) to the desolate
cape which, until surpassed in coming ages, may well bear the
grand name of AVashington.

< i

Victoria Inlat from Cape Britannia, Nares Land to the left
IFrom iketch by Lieutenant Lockicoml. J

CHAPTER XXV.

LOOKWOOD ISLAND AND RETURN.

r\P liis plans, at Lockwood Island, Lieutenant Lockwood
^^ says : " The rations being almost exhausted, I decided to
make this cape my farthest, and to devote the little time wo
could stay to determining accurately my position, if the weather
would allow, which seemed doubtful. . . . "VVe built a largo,
conspicuous cairn, about six feet high and the same in width at
the base, on the lower of two benches. It is about thirty feet
above the level of the ice-foot, and about the same number of
yards distant from it, and just this side of a picturesque mass of
rocks which crowns the cliffs. In the cairn I afterward depos-
ited a record of my journey to date, and also the thermometer
(minimum registering). I regret that the instrument only reads
to —65° -53°.9. It was set at +14° -10° C. After repitch-
ing the tent Sergeant Brainard and I returned to the cairn, and
collected in that vicinity specimens of the rocks and vegetation
of the country, the sergeant making almost all the collection."

" "We ascended without difficulty to a small fringe of rocks, .
which seemed from below to form the top, but found it only a

LOOKWOOD ISLAND AND BETCTRN.

337

kind of terrace of the iimiu elovntion wiiich lay before us. The
ascent, at first very gradual, bocaino steeper as wo went up, but
we had no difficulty, as for some distance below the summit the
surface is covered with small stones, as uniform in size, position,
etc., as those of a macadamized road. Keached the top at 3.45
P.M. and unfurled the American Hag (Mrs. Greely's) to the
breeze in latitude 83° 24' N. (according to last observation).

, " The summit is a small plateau, narrow, but extending back
to the south to broken, snow-covered heights. It commanded a
very extended view in every direction. The barometer, being
out of order, was not brought along, so I did not get the altitude.
" To the northeast (about) projected a rocky headland (Capo
Kane) to the north, and at its foot I could perceive another low
shore projecting out and forming a cape some distance beyond.
Cape Washington, doubtless separated from the first by a fiord
(Hunt Fiord), as the first was fronx the promontory on which
we stood.* The fiord just to the east of Conger Inlet extended
south till shut out by the mountains south of us, but it presented
every appearance of connecting in that direction with the fiord
last crossed (Weyprecht). The horizon beyond, on the land
side, was concealed by numberless snow-covered mountains, one
profiler overlapping another, and all so merged together, on ac-
count of their universal covering of snow, that it was impossible
to detect the topography of the region. To the north lay an
unbroken expanse of ice, interrupted only by the horizon.
Could see no land anywhere between the two extreme capes,
Washington and Alexander Ramsay, referred to, though I looked
long and carefully, as did Sergeant Brainard. Delayed on top

* On map facing page 325, the sketcli of Lieutenant Lockwood's entitled
" Next Point beyond Fartliest" shows Cape Washington to the left with Cape
Kane in foreground: "Farthest from the West," discloses Lockwood and
Brainard Islands against a high background, the west shore of Conger Inlet.

338

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

11)1

twenty minutes ; left a short record in a small tin box under a
few small stones (there were no large ones)."

Sergeant Brainard's iield notes contain : " Several snow-
buntings seen flying around the tent. The geological and botan-
ical specimens were limited i'l number — the former owing to
their weight, and the latter owing to scarcity of vegetation and
trouble in securing it. Numerous traces of foxes, lemmings,
hare, and ptarmigan at this point.

" The lately fallen snow lias entirely disappeared, except oc-

Cape Alojiander Ramsay.
I From sketch by Lieutetianl I.ueK wt/oU |

casional drifts in ravines, leaving only the bare rocks and scanty
stunted vegetation, which render the aspect a dreary and
desolate one. The peculiar formation of the country, as well as
the rocks, etc., presents certain characteristics, which give rise to
the conjecture that in remote ages volcanic action was not un-
known to these regions. To extend our rations sixteen hours
between meals is at present our established rule.

" We now ascended the summit of the cape (Lockwood Island),

r ,

LOCKWOOD ISLAND AND RETURN.

339

which was from two thousand six hundred to three thousand feet
elevation above the sea, and displayed our flags. About eight
miles to the northeast a point of land (Cape Kane) is visible,
similar to the one on which we are now standing, with an inter-
vening fiord (Conger) which probably communicates with the
one to the westward, making this an island. Another point
(Cape Washington), about fifteen miles away, projects farther
to the north than the intermediate one. In the distance, look-
ing past these points, is a low blue line stretching away to the
northward. Owing to haze in that direction it could not with
safety be pronounced land, although at first it gave one that im-
pression. The interior was a confused mass of snow-capped
peaks, and the country much broken by entering fiords. Toward
the North the Polar Ocean, a vast expanse of snow and broken
ice, lay before us. For sixty miles our vision extended unin-
terruptedly, and within it no signs of land appeared. The ice
appeared to be rubble, the absence of the large palaeoerystic floes
being remarked on."

" As. I awoke," says Lieutenant Lockwood, " a small piece of
pemmican (our only remaining dog-food) was slowly but surely
moving out of the tent. The phenomenon astonished me, and,
rubbing my eyes, I looked more carefully, and saw Ritenbenk's
head without his body, and found that his teeth, fixed in one
corner of the sack, were the motive power. His eyes were
fixed steadily on me, but head, eyes, and teeth vanished as I
looked. He had burrowed a hole tlirough the snow and had in-
serted his head just far enough into the tent to lay hold of a
corner of the sack. The whole pack are ravenous, and eat
anythhig and everything, which means substantially nothing in
tip* 3 case."

On the evening of lilay 16th, Lieutenant Lockwood and party
left for Conger, and in nine marches reached Cape Bryant.

' .1

340

THREE YEARS OP ARCTIC SERVICE.

Apart from snow-blindness and bad travelling, the following
are the most important incidents : Records were deposited at
Mary Murray Island, Capes Iloffmeyer, Mohn, Neumayer, and
Britannia. At the first cape snow-buntings and fox-tracks were
numerous. Weypreeht and De Long Fiords were " of immense
extent and have many lateral branches. The head of the last
could not be seen ; a long way up is an island."

At Low Point, 83° 07' !N., Lieutenant Lockwood stopped " to
observe a glacier some distance inland to the eastward. This
(Buys Ballot) glacier had all the appearance of a large mound-
shaped hill covered with snow, with a continous wall of green

Elison Island.
I From a ■iXeUh bij Lieutenant Luckwood,]

ice all along the side toward the sea. The wall must have been
of considerable height."

Sergeant Brainard says of it : "A glacier with smooth
rounded surface, not unlike an inverted saucer in shape, and
with a nearly vertical face two hundred feet high. We passed
it in a snow-storm, going northward. Temperature low, but a
cached thermome'.;er and broken barometer have simplified our
meteorological observations." At Cape Benet two ptarmigan
flew by, and many tracks of foxes and hares were observed.
Stopped opposite Elison Island and made a sketch of it. Nor-

LOCKWOOD ISLAND AND EETURN.

341

denskjold Inlet " runs a long distance inward, as straight as a
canal — no land visible at its head."

Brainard says: "Lieutenant Lockwood intended going around
Britannia to the eastward, but short provisions and deep snow
in that direction prevented." The extra runner and small
cooking-lamp were left at Cape Britannia for "next year." At
that point old traces of musk-oxen were seen, and geological
and botanical specimens obtained. Snow-shoes were put on on
leaving that camp, and Lieutenant Lockwood says : " Regrets
at leaving them behind haunted me every day while travelling
north. Nothwithstanding it was my first attempt, the relief
was wonderful. We wore them almost continuously afterward,
and had no difficulty in keeping ahead of the dogs to encourage
them." Brainard also says : " Snow-shoes found to be very
advantageous. Unfortunately we have only two pairs of them.
Christiansen frequently breaks through the crust to his hips
and is dragged out by upstanders and dogs. . . . Used
surface ice (fifteen miles northeast of Cape May) for cooking
purposes, it being entirely free from saline matter. Owing to
scarcity of fuel we gnaw our frozen cakes of lime-juice when
thirsty. Crossed tide-crack to-day: it is now frozen so thick
it cannot be broken with a tent-pole. Saw a remarkable par-
helion, five bright mock suns with prismatic colors, and a purple
bar uniting four of them." North of St. George's Fiord many
tracks of foxes going both north and south were met with.

Victoria Inlet, sketched from Britannia, was seen, in passing,
to be abroad deep fiord, with no visible head, which presented a
magnificent aspect, with the high cliffs of Nares Land to the
east.

The last camp before reaching Capo Bryant, Brainard's
notes say : " In their mad rush to secure their breakfast the dogs
nearly upset the tent. Their wolfish propensities M'ere aroused.

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342

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

and neither blows nor Eskimo imprecations were of avail until
food was thrown them."

At Cape Bryant Lieutenant Lockwood attempted to obtain
tidal readings in a crack one-quarter of a mile from shore, in
water from one hundred and three to one hundred and fourteen
foot deep, but finally abandoned the attempt as fruitless. Ser-
geant Brainard's journal says : " Crustaceans were obtained from
the bottom, adhering to the stone. The rock when drawn to the
surface did not appear to have been in contact with gravel or
mud. The strong movement of the line to the eastward would
seem to indicate a current in that direction. Our dogs are
evidently preparing for war. They tore open the ammunition-
bag, bit several metallic shot-gun cartridges through and spoiled
a dozen. I killed two snow-buntings for specimens."

At Cape Bryant Lieutenant Lockwood cached for " next year's
work : " Penunican, 08 lbs. ; bacon, 7 lbs. ; hard bread, 47 lbs. ;
alcohol, 18^^ lbs. ; dried beans, 18^ lbs. ; chocolate, 4 lbs. ; tea.
If lbs. ; stearine, about 15 lbs. ; snow-knife, medicines, and
fifteen shot-f,un cartridges.

The distance from Cape Bryant to Polaris Boat Camp was
passed over in six marches. Sergeant Brainard discovered
Lieutenant Beaumont's cache at Brypnt. The pennnican, spirits
of wine, and tent Avere missing, probably covered with snow;
but an Enfield rifle, cartridges, and a few ai-ticles of under-
wear and sledging-gear were found. Near it Lieutenant Lock-
wood shot a ptarmigan "on a floeberg, quite remarkable for
its size and the regularity of its shape. It was thirty feet high
by fifty long and broad, square in form, with undulating sur-
face to its snow-covered top. Salt icicles hung from its south
side. The ice composing it was very homogeneous. How such
a mass could be pushed up ixntil it touched the ice-foot is a
mystery." Near Cape Stanton he says : "The ice to the north

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LOCKWOOD ISLAND AND KETURN.

343

seemed very rough ; no extensive floes visible. . . . The
changed appearance of the floebergs is a subject of daily re-
mark. Well-known floebergs were so much dwindled down in
size as to be hardly recognizable."

At Kepulse Harbor they opened Lieutenant Beaumont's cairn.
Sergeant Erainard well says : " Poor fellows ! their history at
this period, when the whole party, scurvy-stricken, were turned
back by open water from their attempt to reach the Alert, is
related in this record by Lieutenant Beaumont in a touching
and pathetic manner."

In 1876, Lieutenant Beaumont, after a journey of successful
exploration, pushed with extraordinary energy until the break-
down of his sledge-crew by scurvy on the eastern shore of Sher-
ard Osborn Fiord, found himself compelled to turn backward
with his disabled crew. After a severe and exhausting march
along the North Greenland coast, during which his men sick-
ened and weakened daily, he reached Repulse Harbor with his
party in an almost helpless condition.

With a laudable desire that his work should live after him.
Lieutenant Beaumont left at Repulse Harbor a record of hi?
successful geographical explorations, and further says : " Out of
seven men forming the whole party, two, William Jenkins and
Charles Paul, are absolutely helpless, having to be dressed and
carried to and from the sledge. Another, Peter Craig, is just
able to walk very slowly. Wilson Dobing is gradually ap-
proaching the stage when he will no longer be able to pull, and
Frank Jones, though he has unmistakable signs of the same
disease, has not become worse until the last few days. Severe
work made the stiffness a little more felt ; the two last, together
with Alexander Gray and Lieutenant Beaumont (who, as yet, is
well in health), are the four working hands upon whom the bur-
den of the work falls entirely. Both Dobing and Jones are

n >

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THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

. I

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working with great spirit and determination ; Craig has shown
much courage in holding out so long, and all have done their
best."

Uncei'tain as to the best course to follow in his desperate
strait, Lieutenant Beaumont boldly decided to cross Robeson
Channel to the Alert, where relief was certain, but, in doubt as
to the possibility of making the trip, he wrote :

" I, Lewis A. Beaumont, who wrote the preceding record, hav-
ing weighed over very carefully the whole matter, firmly believe
that, to the best of my belief and knowledge, I have taken the
right course and hopefully trust, with God's help, to carry it out.

" It is my intention, immediately on reaching the Alert, to
procure assistance for those at Polaris Bay (believing that they
are too few to manage the twenty-foot ice-boat), either from
that ship or the Discovery."

Rotten ice and open pools drove him back, but he did not
despair and turned his face southward, adding :

" "We have been out on the ice, and, after having successfully
passed the shore hummocks and the first floe, we came to open
water and last year's ice decaying fast. Though we could have
got round it, I did not feel justified in running so great a risk
as it would be to arrive on the other side eight days later with
three helpless men and more open water ; so, having no choice
left, we are starting for Polaris Bay immediately."

Still later, when afi^airs were yet worse, he wrote :

" Repulse Harbor Depot, June 13, 1876.

" Three of us have returned from the camp, half mile south,
to fetch the remainder of the provisions. Dobing has failed
altogether this morning.

" Jones is much worse, and cannot last more than two or
three days.

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THREE TEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

" Craig ip nearly helpless ; therefore we cannot hope to reach
Polaris Bay without assistance. Two men cannot do it, so wo
will go as far as we can and live as long as we can. God help us.

" L. A. Bkaidiont.''

i I'

This brilliant record of British courage, discipline, devotion
to <luty, and endurance must ever affect deeply all who may
read its full details. To the men of the Lady Franklin Bay
Expedition, who justly appreciated the terrible contingencies
of the situation, and who dared similar dangers, this story, as
told by the gallant Beaumont, was full of deep and thrilling
interest.

The trip from Repulse Harbor through Gap Yalley was
made in a little over eleven hours. A wonderful snow-grotto
was found in Gap Valley, being, says Brainard, " about a hun-
dred yards long with an entrance ten feet in diameter. It was
supported by small columns, and the vaulted roof was covered
with fine, feathery frost-work, more beautiful than any which
had ever before charmed ray eyes." Is ear here he " found
several rocka containing fossils."

Sergeants Lyim, Ralston, and Elison were found well . at
Polaris Boat Camp. They had reached that place in six marches
from Cape Bryant, travelling as rapidly with their light sledge
as Lieutenant Lockwood had done. Frederik, Jewell, and
Salor had returned to Fort Conger. The party at Boat Camp
had experienced a succession of violent gales which made life
wretched and uncomfortable. The only exciting event had been
the visit of two bears. May 17th, which came from Xewman
Bay and passed southward from Cape Sumner while the party
were asleep. A few ptarmigan and a fox were the only other
signs of animal life during the twenty-five days' monotonous
stay.

,at
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LOOKWOOD ISLAND AND RETURN.

347

Lieutenant Lockwood left there four linndred pounds of ra-
tions and some other supplies for the next year's work, and in
fourteen hours' travel crossed Robeson Channel to Capo Beechy
in face of a violent snow-storm. It was quite remarkable that,
travelling on this day in which no sun was seen, the party were
badly affected with snow-blindness through not using goggles.
Two of them had to bo led into Conger, where the entire party
arrived June 1st, after an absence of sixty days. Apart from
snow-blindness they were all strong, healthy, and sound.

This sledge-trip must stand as one of the greatest in Arctic
history, considering not only the high latitude and the low
mean temperature in which it was made, but also the length
of the journey and the results flowing therefrom. The mean
temperature for the forty-three days' outward travel was below
zero Fahrenheit — one of the lowest means on record for an
extended trip. The party were absent sixty days, and ex-
perienced no serious frost-bites, although subjected frequently
to temperatures from -31° (-35° C.) to -49° (-45° C).
During that time Lieutenant Lockwood made with the dog-
sledge forty-six marches, and travelled (one thousand and
seventy statute miles) nine hundred and twenty-eight geo-
graphical miles — an average of over twenty geographical miles
to a march. His outward journey of two hundred and seventy-six
miles entailed travel of four hundred and seventy miles, owing
to the necessity of doubling up and assisting the man-sledges.
The outward rate of travel was 2.1 miles, and inward 2.3 miles
per hour. . .

His discoveries extended to a point ninety-five miles along
the north Greenland coast beyond the farthest ever seen by
his predecessors, to which should be added about thirty miles
of coast-line between Capes May and Britannia not visible to
Lieutenant Beaumont. The results of his journey, then, consist

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THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

^ *!

il.

not in tho mere honor of displaying tlio Stars and Stripes four
miles nearer tho geographical Polo than tho flag of any other
nation, but in adding one hundred and twenty-five miles of
coast (not including several hundred miles of inland fiords) to
Greenland, and in extending tho main-land, over a degree of
latitude, from Capo May northward to Capo Washington.

Tho domain added to Physical Geography may thus be sum-
marily described : From Cape Bryant to Capo "Washington tlio
coast-line is a series of high, rocky, and precipitous promontories,
probably the north projection of islands in many cases, with
inteiTcning inlets. This afforded but little coast-journeying,
and necessitated the constant crossing of fiords with accompany-
ing bad travel.

The inlets, with " no visible land at the head of several of
them, were very much like immense canals, and gave the whole
coast the appearance of Greenland between Upernavik and
Disco." One inlet from tho summit of Britannia Island ap-
peared to run nearly parallel to the coast, making " islands of
all the promontories to the north." As far as seen " the in-
terior seemed very high and was ... a maze of mountain-
peaks, with universal covering of snow, merging into and over-
lapping one another. . . . From Lockwood Island I saw
mountains to the east, perhaps twenty or thirty miles distant,
and a high mountainous country doubtless exists all along this
coast for some distance to the south, the shore-lines of the fiords
invariably being at the base of steep cliffs and moimtains."

The tide-crack, as it was called, is a very remarkable division*
between the somewhat hunnnocky floes of the Polar Ocean
and the level ice of the inlets, varying from a few feet to
several hundred yards in width. It was seen from near Cape
May to Lockwood Island — and later off Cape Bryant— and
stretched from headland to headland in gentle curves. Near

LOCKWOOD ISLAND AND RETUIIN.

340

Capo FrcdcricU moving ico wns detected. I ngico with Lieu-
tenant Lockwood that it was caused by " the outside poUvr pack
having constantly more or less motion." This cause seems
most probable, as the drift of the Tegetthoff, Dijmphna, and
Jcannette in different parts of the Polar liasin, and Norden-
skjold's experiences at Mossell Bay show beyond a doubt that
open water-spaces exist in the Polar Ocean, and its main ico
moves the entire winter. Tho drift of Dr. Pavy near Capo
Joseph Henry, and of I'rainard at J>lack Horn Cliffs, both in
April and in different years, prove tho uncertain unification of
the polar pack, even in early spring when floo-ico is most solid.

The existence of last-year's ice to tho northward of Capo
Britannia indicates that in unusually favorable years there is a
possibility of a well-found ship pushing along the northwestern
coast of Greenland, as Macluro did along Banks Land ; probably,
too, to meet tho same fate as tho Investigator in Mercy Bay.

Tho ago of tho tide at Conger and the exceptional depth of
the sea north of Capo May (one hundred and thirty-seven
fathoms and no bottom) augur to my mind tho inconsiderable
extension of Greenland to the northward (say to tho eighty-fifth
parallel) and tho presence there of a deep sea as compared with
tho shallow basin north of Griiniell Land. Indeed, I doubt
not there is a very considerable land to the north of the Parry
Islands, which, entirely ice-clad, throws off to tho east the im-
mense palaBocrystic floes and floebergs which crowd down on
Grinnell Land and thenco southwestward to Banks Land. In
a limited way tho same conditions prevail near tho North as
toward tho South Pole. This opinion indicates my belief that
Carpenter has advanced the correct theory as to the formation
of this ice, and that Moss was right in believing the salt in
it to be by infiltration and efflorescence.

Lieutenant Lockwood's success might have been greater if

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360

THREE YEARS OP ARCTIC SERVICE.

■i ■'

the dogs, purchased in Greenland, had been ex' mpt from dis-
ease. Other causes militated against him, for which I was re-
sponsible. Had I not been tempted . to send a party north of
Cape Joseph Henry, when the mere honor of the Farthest
North seemed within our grasp, the North Greenland expedi-
tion would have been pushed at least fifty miles beyond Cape
Washington. Had Lieutenant Lockwood carried snow-shoes
beyond Britannia, he would undoubtedly have reached Cape
Washington, If I had sent northward Hudson Bay sledges,
steel shod, a few miles at least would have been added to this
unprecedented latitude. With our wits sharpened by our first
year's experience, and with our energies turned in one direc-
tion Lieutenant Lockwood and I concui-red in thinking that he
could proceed a hundred miles beyond Lockwood Island. His
extraordinary journey to Black Horn Cliffs, when he wus turned
back by open water, in 1883, proves that this opinion had sound
premises. In 1883 Lieuteuai'.t Lockwood's opinions were in
entire accord with my own, and our mistakes, which only add
to his credit for this successful work, are touched on onlv for
the benefit of posterity and our successors in Polar exploration.
This journey has been erroneously thought by some to have
opened up again the Smith Sound Route. Such is not the
case, for no nation will willingly spend ^500,000 for a possihle
chance of planting their national ensign a hundred miles north-
eastward of Cape AVashington. I say possible chance, for on
the coincidence of favorable ice-navigation, solidity of the pack,
perfect outfitting of a sledge-party, good judgment, and in-
domitable energy of leader and men depends the hope of suc-
cess of any party who strive to beat, on the Greei'land coast, the
latitude of Lockwood and Brauiard.

i r

CHAPTER XXVI.

SPRINGTIME AND SUMMER.

/^UR winter had been one of unprecedented severity — the
mean temperature for the one hundred and thirty-one
days without the sun being -32.3° (-35.7° C). Spring
opened, however, much warmer, and its March mean of —29.9°
( - 34.4° C.) was particularly mild.

Apart from the sledge journeys, the following items extracted
from my journal cover tlie most important incidents of our
spring life in 1882 :

" March 2d. — Sergeant Rice and party went to Watercourse
Bay for the two musk cattle cached last autumn. They found
only the bones hanging to the tripod, the meat having been
picked by cunning foxes through the snow-drifts forming by it.

"I have been running for exercise lately, and, from two hun-
dred and fifty yards the first day, now run three thousand yards
without stopping. Shortness of breath and stiffness were at
first experienced, but have now passed away. This experience
varies from the facts noted by Nares, where violent exercise,
even with healthy men, was followed by blood-spitting."

" 7th. — Lieutenant Kislingbury, hunting to-day, wounded a
haro through the hind leg. It hopped steadily away, and was
followed two miles before he got a shot, when a ball was put
through the stomach. In two miles' further chase it lost a cup-
ful of entrails. A third ball broke both fore-paws, when the
animal, jumping to reach a high rock, fell over a cliff for nearly

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352

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

f'l

two hundred feet. When picked up it still showed signs of
life. Such tenacity of life on the part of so timid and weak an
animal was sni-prising."

" March 8th. — I learned to-day that one of the officers had
lately neglected to take his lime-juice regularly. On question-
ing him he said he thought its beneficial effect as to scurvy
would be destroyed if it was persistently taken. I felt obliged
to insist on the same rule in this matter for officers as men, —
no exemption except for medical causes."

" 10th. — The black bulb, in the sun, recorded to-day, for the
first time, 11.8° (-11.2° C.)."

" 23d. — Our first lemming was caught to-day. The ends of
its black hairs were pure wiiite, giving it a peculiar pepper-and-
salt appearance."

"25th.— To-day, with its mean temperature of —40.5° (-40.3°
C), is the coldest of the month. The minimum was —46.8°
(-43.8° C.)."

" 26th. — Private Eender was re-enlisted to-day, his term of
service having expired yesterday."

"29th.— The barometer touched 28.988, the lowest point
reached since our arrival. The day is, however, clear and
calm."

" April 3d. — Sergeant Rice saw icicles pendent upon a floe
and from the cliffs with southern exposure. The highest tem-
perature has been —7° (—21.7'^ C.) lie brought in a fox,
probably poisoned."

" 8th. — The sun is now above the horizon at midnight. To-
day the temperature rose at 5 vm. to 1.2° (—17.1° C.) after
having been below zero (—17.8° C.) for one hundred and sixty
consecutive days. Private lienry saw a wolf at Depot " B,"
April 6th, and two followed Conuell and him to Distant Cape
yesterday."

I i

SPRINGTIME AND SUMMER.

853

"April 11th. — The snow on tlie black roof melted freely
under the influence of the sun. Lieutenant Ivislingbury saw an
eagle, and its scream was heard by Sergeant Gardiner." This
was "probably the same eagle whicli was seen by Lieutenant
Lockwood and Eskimo Frederik in St. Patrick Bay, April 4th.

" 13th. — Long killed a ptarmigan near the coal-mine."

" 14:th. — Gardiner heard a snow-bird, the first of the season."

" 16th. — Cross, hunting to-da}', saw a fox."

" 22d. — The maximum at The Bellows since October 12th
has been 15° (- 9.4° C), against -13.9° (-10.1° C.) at Conger."

" 29th. — Two snowy owls were seen to-day by Lieutenant
Kislingbury."

" May 3d. — An incident, which caused much amusement, oc-
curred while I was in the field, in which Lieutenant Kislingbury
played a part. One of the men had suffered terribly for nearly
a week with toothache, which permitted him neither to eat nor
sleep. Lieutenant Kislingbury was the only oflicer at the sta-
tion, and the man begged him to pull his tootli, which the
Lieutenant consented to do, witli the understandins; that the
afflicted man should himself adjust the forceps. This done.
Lieutenant K., by main strength pulled the tooth, fortunately
without breaking the man's jaw. To their consternation, liow-
ever, the tooth pulled was perfectly sound, while the aching
one still remained. The men have suffered considerably from
toothache during tlie past year." It is especially important that
all recruits for Arctic service should have perfect teeth.

" 5th. — Schneider, with his team of seven puppies only five

months old, made their first long trip at this time. They made

a round trip of over fifty miles in twenty hours, hauling from

forty to sixty pounds per dog. They are now considered fit for

light field worK." These dogs, raised with so much care and

trouble, proved of great value in subsequent explorations.
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354

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

On May 14th, in accordance with Long's request, I sent him
and Whisler to visit the English depot in Archer Fiord. Long
had been debarred from extended trips, owing to the uncertain

Long and Whisler returning from Arther Fiord, iVIay, 1882.
IFrom a plwtugraph.lt

state of his health, and by the advice of the doctor. They took
a Hudson Bay sledge and snow-shoes, and were absent but
four days and two hours, during which time they travelled
about sixty-five miles. Long travelled some distance farther

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SPRINGTIME AND SUMMER.

356

than Whisler and visited Hillock Depot where the rations left
by Lieutenant Archer, R.N., were found in good order, except
the bread which was mouldy.

On May 9th Dr. Pavy was ordered to proceed with dog-team
the following day to Ilepulse Harbor, to communicate with
Lieutenant Lockwood's party, but Jewell, Salor, and Frederik
returned to the station that day bringing a report of Lieutenant
Lockwood's movements. The order was consequently amended
and Dr. Pavy visited instead Sergeant Lynn's party at Polaris
Boat Camp, taking them some delicacies from the station. He
returned on the 16th, coming in accordance with his orders by
way of Thank God Harbor, from Avhich he brought three cans
of pemmican, a grindstone, and several books.

May 16th, seal-holes were observed near Distant Cape, and
two days later a seal {Phoca harhata) was seen. Five of this
species were subsequently killed during the month — four by
Jens and one by Connell. The largest was eight feet two inches
long and weighed four hundred pounds gross. One of the seals
had evidently been injured by a bear, as he was badly scratched
and one of his flippers .had been bitten off. The seals were
flayed by Jens and the skins kept for specimens, but the meat,
except the liver and other choice bits, was fed to the dogs.

Seal-hunting was a matter of pride and interest to Jens, and
he pursued it as long as the condition of the ice would per-
mit. He used a blind, a large piece of white cloth, which was
mounted on a miniature sled so as to cover it entirely from
view. The hunter crawling cautiously on the ice, pushes the
sled before him, watching the seal through a small hole in the
cloth. A support on the sled affords a i-est for his rifle when
the hunter is sufficiently near to be certain of killing the seal.

" May 15th. — I saw to-day a patch of moss quite green ; tem-
perature 16= (8.9° C.)."

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356

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

" May lOtli. — I visited the coal-miiio to-day, going overland.
In the deep, soft snow were many tracks of foxes and lenunings.
In certain places a fox had been digging for lemmings, there
being freqnently holes a foot deep. In one case the fox had
dug down vertically eighteen inches, and then timnelled after
the lennninif for a loni; distance. I obtained from the slate
above the coal about fifty fine specimens of fossils. The work
■was too dangerous to be long pursued, as huge masses on the
overhanging cliffs had been detached by this melting weather,
and were ready to separate and fall. Several fell while I was
present. The coal seam is two hundred yards long and extends
eight feet above the level and an unknown distance below the
surface of the creek which flows by it in sunnner. It seems
probable that the stream has worn its way through the friable
slate and soft coal, leaving the present narrow deep canon with
■walls of slate and coal. Xear by the main seam is another of
less extent. An immense quantity of coal could be easily
mined. I saw what I took to be an Iceland gull {Larus leucop-
terus). I at first thought it the Burgomaster, but it was so snudl
and the pale blue numtle was so marked that I consider its
identity certain. I saw a trickling stream to-day, from which
possibly two gallons an hour were flowing. Several such have
been seen within tlu' past few days in very favorable localities.
Up to this time the maximum temperature has been only 23.8°
(—4.6° C). Connell caught a lemming to-day.

" May 21st. — An Iceland gull, evidently a straggler, was seen
to-day ; probably the same bird observed by me on the 19th.

" May 2oth, — Lieutenant Kislingbury brought in an owl's
egg, which was somewhat larger than, though closely resem-
bling, the white egg of a hen. Sergeant Israel found it very
palatable. The male bird showed signs of fight when the c^y:,
was taken, while the female looked on from about a hundred

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SPRINGTIME AND SUMMER.

357

yards. The first owl observed was on April 29th ; since then
one or more have been frequently seen. The nest is a mere
hole hollowed out on the summit of a commanding knoll, and
furnished with a few scattered feathers, grass, etc.

" Long planted half of the garden to-day." Lettuce, cabbage,

Coal Seam chowing above Watetcourso Creek,
[From (I PlHitorjfiiph. ]

radishes, etc., were experimented with unsuccessfully, owing,
I think, to the alkalies in the soil.

On May 25th I sent Sergeant Israel Council and Jens with
a dog-team to ascertain whether Lake Ilazcn was practicable
by an overland route through The IjcHows.

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358

THREE TEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

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Tho following is a summary of Sergeant Israel's report :

Seven hours' march brought them to the depot at head of
Basil Korris Bay. Traces of game were seen, and several
musk-oxen travelling westward on Sun Peninsula.

Camp No. 2 was made after five and a half hours' work,
about a mile and a half southeast of Devil's Head, in a latitude
which was later determined to bo 81° 46' X. The valley at first
was almost entirely bare of snow, but later they were obliged
to put on snow-shoes. " At this camp," says Israel, " we found
a considerable quantity of coal, some wood, and numerous
pieces of a substance resembling resin. The valley had recently
been crossed by a herd of musk-oxen. . . . Connell found
a musk-ox skull, ajiparently of great age."

Camp No. 3 was made just north of a projecting spur from
the west, which nearly crossed the valley. Longitude, by obser-
vation, 6' 10.4" W. of Conger (in time) ; latitude, 81° 47' N. ;
magnetic declination, 102° 10' W. From an adjacent hill four-
teen imisk-oxeii were seen, of which " Coimell shot two cows
and a yearling. After driving off the rest of the herd we
skinned these." Two hours' travel on May 28th brought them
to a place where the valley narrowed rapidly, with steep moun-
tains to the west. Connell was sent up a mountain, but saw
only an occasional peak to the west, owing to cloudy weather.
He ascended fourteen hundred feet above the valley, which was
at that point about three hundred and twenty feet above the
sea. Israel " proceeded up the valley about three miles. The
valley at this point splits into two narrow ravines, one extend-
ing lip a mountain-side for a mile, and the other terminating
in the same manner after extending to the north about three
miles. As there is no turn in either of these passes there can be
no doubt that the valley ends here instead of communicating
with another running in, from the east as I at first thought."

SPRINGTIME AND SUMMER.

359

Returning to the point where Connell had ascended the moun-
tain the latitude (by observation) was determined to be 81° 5i'
K., longitude (D. R.) 7' 44.4" W. of Conger (in time). About
three miles north of Devil's Head the valley was measured with
the following results: "Width, 4,280 feet; height of cliffs,
west, 1,999 feet; east,
825 feet." In return-
ing, lack of snow
forced them to carry
load and sledge for
considerable dis-
tances. The upper
portion of the ravines,
which were said by
Sergeant Israel to be
filled with snow, must
have been filled with
glaciers, for the
amount of water seen
later in Uellows River
was by far too great
to have come from
any snow in the val-
ley. The musk-oxen
killed by Connell
were later brought to
the station by Ser-
geant Rice, who was sent Mith Schneider and Jens into The
Bellows.

" May 28th.— The temperature at 9 a.m. reached 32.5° (0.3°
C.) having been continuous)" below the freezing-point for nine
months less two days."

Decoration Day at Conger, 1882,
IFrom a I'hotograph.i

*!?

■

i'S

860

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

iMi

\ I

ill I

" May 30th. — It being Decoration Day, we observed it as a
general holiday. Happily we have no graves of our own but
on this occasion, Frederik and Long were inspired with the
thoughtful idea of decorating the head-boards of the dead of
the British Arctic Expedition, set up at this place in 1876. In
default of regular flowers they made an elaborate artificial
bouquet, which, with our camp colors, were tastefully draped
over the head-boards." These uuirks of appreciation and honor
to our dead predecessors must be considered of greater value
thus coming from the rank and file of the expedition than if
the initiative had been taken by the officers.

June was opened by tlie safe return of Lieutenant Lockwood
and his party, who were not long contented to remain at the
station. On June 10th Lockwood, Brainard, and Frederik left
under orders for a trip down Archer Fiord and returned on tlio
loth. In addition to six hundred and fifty pounds of dressed
meat from three musk-oxen killed by them, they brought in tlio
English Hillock Depot of eighty-four rations, the bread being
bad. It was evident that the rations left in bags by Lieutenant
Archer, It.N., had been consumed by animals. Lieutenant
Lockwood was turned back from Hillock Depot by the im-
mense quantity of water covering the floe in Archer Fiord.

Of Eskimo relics Sergeant Brainard says : " I found at the
head of Sun Bay tlie sites of fifteen Eskimo summer tents,
evidently occupied during their hunting season. K^ear the head
of Basil Xorris Bay I discovered fifteen other circles slightly
larger than the first. I picked up numerous bone and a few
wood relics of these hardy people, but nothing metallic was
seen. Those I collected were worked, drilled, and bored, but
large numbers of split bones, probably of the seal and musk-ox,
were strewn around."

My journal says of these relies : " The most important is of

■i-.

»•

SPUINOTIME AM) HUMMER.

aei

worked porous bone, six and one-half inclies wide, one and one-
half inch thick, and eighteen and one-half inches long. Evi-
dently it is a part of a native sledge and of the cellular bone of
the whale, as described by Kane. One side was covered with
lichens (of which I recognized at once seven separate kinds), and
was so affected by exposure as to bo almost luirecognizablo as
bone. The reverse side, however, showed plainly the marks of
the knife. Xo less than forty-two circular holes had been bored
through or into (so as to connect with other holes) this piece. On
both sides appeared mortices into which dowels, extending from
this piece to others, could be inserted. In addition, one end was
thinned down so that it would overlap a second similar piece
without increasing the thickness. Two bones forming a pecu-
liar harpoon were found, which are so fastened together that
when used the head remains in the seal, while the shoulder, as
it may be called, is by a pull separated from it, fgrmiug with
the seal-thong (by which it remains connected with the head)
a hinge by which the animal can be towed without pulling out
the lance. It is like the harpoon of the Danish Eskimo. There
are several other parts of hunting-gear. A dog-trace fastening
(whale's tooth probably) appears much fresher and is in far
better condition than any other article discovered. One very
small article ' . of walrus ivory. Sergeant Brainard says that
fully a ton of bones could be gathered from one of the encamp-
ments. There was only one place resembling a house, about six
feet square, of large flat stones, the roof of which had fallen in,"
Various other signs of the presence of Eskimo encampments
Avere noted in the vicinity of Discovery Harbor. On June 5th
Connell found the bono handle of a skinning-knife at the site
of what was thought to be a lookout on a high cliff above
Dutch Island. I later visited the place, and a careful search re-
sulted in the discovery of a toggle for dog-traces made of walrus

362

THREE YEAllS OF AUOTIO SERVICE.

ivory, a spcar-point of narwliars liorn about nine inches long,
many bones of hare and lemming, and one which might have
been human, though the doctor could not state positively, as it
seemed too porous. In addition, a piece of pine (?) wood care-
fully worked, two inches long, an inch wide, and an eightl
an inch in thickness. In one end and one side were two sui. i
wooden pins, which had evidently been used in fastening other
pieces to it. On Jimo 15tli, I found on a low plateau near Fort
Conger, south of Cascade liavinu an ancient Eskimo cache.
.Tune 20th, Council dug up, near Proteus I\)int, part of a
stone lamp and vari<Mis articles of hunting-gear made from
walrus ivory. One of the most interesting articles we dis-
covered was a piece of birch bark admirably preserved.

Juno 2l6t, I discovered an Eskimo cache on the plateau near
the Sugar Loaf, and two days later Private Henry found at Dis-
tant (Jape, about two hundred feet above the sea, part of a bo^e
shoo of a sledge-runner on which were six or seven diff(
kinds of lichen. July 2(1, Sergeant Erainard found, near L .
Island, the site of an Eskimo sujumcr encampment, where he
unearthed several parts of hunting implements made of the
bone of the whale, and a spear-point of a narwhal's horn. A
few days later he picked up the bone handle of a knife, another
eiDcar-point, and the shoe of a sledge-ruimer.

Though no permanent huts were to be foimd near Conger,
yet the many traces indicate that for years the Eskimo must
have frequented the shores of Discovery Bay, and later dis-
coveries proved their winter residence in the interior.

On June 10th Connell killed two musk-oxen near the sta-
tion, and this led to the discovery of seven others, who, strange
to say, were gathered on the very summit of Sugar Loaf, about
eighteen hundred feet above the sea. A party sent out killed
them all and captured alive four young calves, which were

SPUINCiTIME AND SUMMEK.

303

found with them. Tlio oiilvcs woro brought in by tlio men
on their heads from the top of tlio mountain, at wliich point
Dr. Pavy picked up a fossil shell. Every effort was made to
raise the calves, which soon became tamo and tractable. They
ato juilk, corn-meal, and almost any food that was given them.
They grew iinely, except one whoso throat was torn open by
tho dogs. In a short time they became very fond of Long and
J-'rederik, who generally cared for them, and would follow them
around and put their noses into tho men's pockets for food. I

x..^

Musk Calves at Conger, Four Months Old.
[From a Phutuoraph. |

had intended to send them to the irnited States by the visiting
vessel of 1S82. When the long nights came it was iuipructica-
l)le to give them exercise, and probably from this cause, despite
our care, they died.

On June 19th I succeeded in having the launch moved from
her winter bed on the ice-foot into tho tidal crack.

One of the most surprising peculiarities of Grinnell Land was
the unusually early date on which flowers came into blossom.

June 1st the purple saxifrage {Saxifraqa oj}pos it/folia) was
in bloom, and three days later the catkins of the willow {Salix

!i I

il !l

Vl'A

ii'

iis

I' I

3n4

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

arctica), followed the next day by the sorrel {Oocyria renifor-
mis). On the eleventh Cochlearia fenestrata blossomed, and
ten days later tlie Arctic poppy {Pajpaver nudicaule). On the
latter 'ilate I discovered on the summit of th Sugar Loaf
reindeer moss {Cladonia rangiferina), one of the few places in
which it was found growing near Fort Conger. That 1882 was
not an exceptionally early year was shown by 1885, when, giv
ing personal attention to the subject I discovered six varieties
in bloom by June 6th. At Thank God Harbor, in 1872, saxi-
frage was in bloom by June 3d.

The following are the earliest flowers found in bloom by
Kordonskjold : Pitlekaj, 67° 05' ^., 187° W., Cochlearia fenes-
tmta, June 23, 1879; Treurenberg Bay, Spitzbergen, 79° 57'
N., Saxifraga ojypositifolia, Juno 22, 1861, and ihe same plant
at Wahlenburg Bay, Kortheast Land, 79° 46' N., June 16, 1873.
Kuudein reports that in early July, 1878, at Cumberland Sound,
about 67° N., only four plants were in blossom.

Of the birds of Grinnell Land, the rock ptarmigan {Lagojyus
rtipesti'is) is a winter denizen. The owl {Nydea scandiaca) and
snow bunting {Plectro^yhanes nivalis) had I een with us since
April, while a stray eagle {IlaliieUis albicUla) and Iceland gull
{Za)'ns leucopterus) had also been observed.

On June 3d the ravines connneuced discharging generally
into the bay, and on the same day the geese {Bernicla hrenta)
J) ! lived, accompanied by one of the robber gulls, the long-
tailed skua {Stercorariua longicaudatus). In the order named
appeared later the burgomaster {Lams glaucus), dovekie {Uria
gi'ijlle), knot {Tringa canutus), king duck {Soinateria spectdbi-
lis), long-tailed duck {Ilarelda glaclatis), eider duck {Somateria
mollissivin,), tern {Sterna macnii'a), and turnstone {Strepsilas
interpres).

It was remarkable how wild and wary were the members of

SPRINGTIME AND SUMMER.

365

the feathered tribe which came to us in summer. Only by
great caution and patience could our hunters get within gun-
shot, and then many specimens were lost by falling in the sea
where strong currents and heavy ice prevented their recovery.

In the Appendices will be found papers treating more fully
than is convenient here the subjects of botany and ornithology.

1.1^

,!■■!

CHAPTER XXVII.

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS,

;• i I

[lieutenant greely's journey.]

X ATE in June sledging over the sea-floe was ended, and
"^ nothing but summer routine was possible in the vicinity
of the station.

I decided to personally renew the explorations of the interior
of Grinnell Land. AVith this view Private Biederbick was sent
to the depot at Basil Norris Bay, with orders to penetrate as far
into Black Rock Yale as it was possible foi* him to do, and re-
turn in a single march. He travelled some sixteen miles up
the valley discovering a lake of considerable size, temporarily
named Lake lleintzelman, which discharges into the sea through
a river of the valley. He reported travel to be practicable for
some distance by wagon, the manner in which I contemplated
pursuing this work.

Later Sergeant Lynn with Private Bender were sent into the
valley with orders to ascertain whether the northern end of
Lake Hazen could be reached by that route. They took with
them from the Basil Korris Depot a dog-tent, and light
sleeping-bag, to bo left a day's march outward. They were
absent four days and succeeded in reaching a high hill from
which four glaciers could be seen, and a lake which they be-
lieved to be Lake Hazen. They were doubtful whether a
wagon could be hauled over the country successfully.

SUMMEE EXPLORATIONS.

367

I decided, however, to make the attempt, and left Fort Conger
on June 24tli with Lynn, Biederbick, Salor, and Whisler. I
travelled as far as the depot in Basil Norris Bay with the dog-
sledge Antoinette. The harbor floe had lately bedn covered
with much water, which left the surface of the ice sharp and
pointed. The dogs' feet were badly cut owing to the forgetf ul-
ness of the driver to take sealskin boots for them. These boots
are very necessary in travelling over sharp ice at any season or
hard snow at very low temperatures. Considerable diflSculty was
experienced in reaching safely the southwestern shore of Dis-
covery Bay, owing to the many water-holes in the main floe.

While the party were cooking dinner I obtained latitude
observations, and later examined the sites of the Eskimo sum-
mer encampments, which were on a plateau about twenty feet
above tide-water. There were large piles of bones mostly of
the seal, which had been split evidently for the marrow. A
few pieces of worked bone and wood were found, and also the
slat of an ancient Eskimo sledge.

Our travelling outfit, taken from the depot, was of limited
character and quantity ; consisting of bread, pemmican, corned
beef, tea, chocolate, sugar, milk, salt, pepper, and alcohol, and
sleeping-bags. The plan of march contemplated two men haul-
ing the fore-wheels of a light wagon, on which the main load
was packed. Two othei-s carried knapsacks containing loads of
about twenty pounds, and at intervals these men changed work
with those pulling the wagon.

I carried myself the scientific instruments, including tele-
scope, prismatic compass, sextant, etc., and employed my time
in examining, as fully as possible, the country over which we
passed. At one low ridge, before Black Rock Valley was reached,
1 found by digging that the alluvial soil was composed of various
strata of a fine lignite coal and of sand. The coal evidently

nTl

i ( ;.

fWW

ML,

368

THREE YEARS OP ARCTIC SERVICE.

[June,

had been brouglit to that point and deposited by the floods
from the river in The Bellows.

Kearly three hours' work brought ns to the " Knife Edge," a
remarkable formation on the western side of Black Rock Vale.
On the east side is a high round bluff of peculiar formation
known as Bifurcation Cape, which separates The Bellows and
Black Rock Vale. The river was nearly forty yards wide and

■

::. r *:«-;s^^S. - ::7 -

^ V" ,:*r :_ . ^ I

1 ,

1 . ■•-■•..■■■,.

^^^g^gg

'!*!^i^^ffl^fcw^^'^^B

■J.'. :

^^^-- --««^*^--

^Sss^r^^T "^ ' ^r-- - :_^...j .■_..-:_

^^&^

Bifurcation Cape, separating Bellows and Black Rock Valleys.
I From a J'/idtdijrnph.]

eighteen inches deep at the entrance of the latter valley. From
the very entrance of Black Rock Vale we had virgin ground for
exploration, untrodden by our English ]iredecessors.

After thirteen hours' travelling from our home station we
camped on the northeastern side of Lake Ileiiitzelman, at the
point where the dog-tent had been left by Sergeant Lynn.

On the shores of this lake Biederbick fouivl a pair of rein-

f :

'i !>•.

1882.]

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

369

rein-

deer antlers, and I picked up a piece of close-grained wood,
apparently pine, two and a half feet long and nearly an inch in
diameter. A musk-ox was seen near this point, but at too
great a distance to be pursued. Indeed, lumting was quite
apart from the object of the journey, as fresh meat in great
quantity was yet on hand at our home station.

In a ravine near the camp were two trees, probably conifer-
ous, partly covered by earth. One was ten feet long and six-
teen inches in diameter, and originally had two branches. The
second tree was six feet long and twelve inches in diameter.
They were about one hundred and fifty yards distant from
Lake Ileintzehnan, and fully twenty feet above its level. Two-
thirds of both trees were imbedded in the ground, and it was
only with considerable labor that they were dug out. It seemed
evident from their position that they nnist have been brought
there as drift-wood, and gradually covered wp by the earth
washing down from the adjacent hill-side. Their presence, ft
an elevation probably three hundred feet above and eight or
ten miles distant from the sea, shows without much doubt that
within a tolerably recent period this valley has been an arm of
the sea. Up to this point, and, indeed, for a short distance be-
yond, marine shells on the surface of the ground were quite
common. AV^hile at this camp (No. 1) several flies were noted.

During this march no 8iiow was seen except on the adjacent
mountain- tops. Lake Ileintzolman was covered, except a narrow
margin of water, by thick honeycombed ice. The presence of
such ice in summer indicates the permanency of a lake.

After nearly twelve hours"' rest wc moved onward, and at noon,

stopping a few moments, I obtained latitude observations in the

centre of the valley. At that time a high warm wind was

blowing from the interior, and the temperatiu'e was considerably

above 40° (5° C).
24

I !

370

TIIEEE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[Jwne,

As the wagon showed signs of weakness and the west side of
tlie river was less rough than that on which we were travelling,
wo attempted, just above Lake Ileintzelman, to cross the river,
but found the water too deep for safe fording. Geese, musk-
oxen, and a wolf were observed on the march, none of which
were we able to obtain.

Seven hours' travelling over very roiigh ground " dished " a
wheel, and lunch was taken while repairs were being made.
About this time I saw many musk-oxen, fifteen in one herd,
and three in another. In the vicinity of this spot the remains
of dead willow existed in sufficient quantities to enable us to
cook our tea with it.

About 5,30 I'.si. we again camped, after nearly eight hours'
travel, during which we made about sixteen miles. The valley
at that time was a mile wide with tolerably level ground on
either side of the river, which flowed first to one and then to
the other side of the valley. Above the main level of the valley
Avere occasional projecting jilateaus — mesa lands or benches —
which were some forty to fifty feet above the level of the river,
but apart from these projecting benches it was shut in by
higli steep cliffs, of an elevation varying from fifteen hundred
to two thousand feet. In its whole extent the valley was entirely
barren of snow, and in most places was covered with a compara-
tively luxuriant vegetation. This consisted generally of willow,
saxifrages, and dryas, though where the river widened, in occa-
sional places, grasses or sedges to a height of ten or twelve
inches were frequently noticed.

The only snow visible were drifts near or on the very sum-
mits of the cliffs, which encompassed the valley. In occasional
places these drifts fed inconsiderable brooks, which in course of
years had worn narrow beds through the scanty soil to the rocks
which underlaid it. It would have been possible to scale these

1883.]

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

371

cliffs only at snch points as tlie water-courses liad worn their
way. My journal says : " Lake lleintzelinan is about a mile
and one-fourth wide at its lower, and three-fourths of a mile at
its upper end, substantially filling the whole valley from cliff to
cliff. The river from the lake to our present camp averages
about two and a half feet in depth, and varies from twenty to
forty yards in n'idth."

Twelve houis' rest at Camp No. 2 put us in good condition.
We cached one day's rations for the returning party and moved
on, seeing some skuas and a wolf. A short distarxce farther,
owing to the rough country, we were obliged to cross the river,
which was done with some difficulty, as it was nearly two feet
deep with a soft bottom. Shortly after two musk-oxen were
seen, on the side of the river wo had just left.

My field journal says : " The country now opens into a fine
level valley about a mile and a half wide, covered in the main
by a very considerable quantity of grass, which in its manner
of growth and appearance resembles the bunch grass of our
western prairies. In addition there are many young willows,
saxifrages, dryns, etc. Enough dead willows can be gathered at
almost any spot for the requirements of any sledge party."

A short march brought us to the junction of two streams,
one of which flowed from the continuation of Black Rock Vale
and the second from a valley to the left, nearly at right angles
to that in which we were travelling. I decided to follow the
latter valley, as it ran nearly in a western direction, and so
must eventually bring us to Lake Ilazen.

As travelling was bad and slow, while the ])arty were follow-
ing the main valley, I climbed a high hill, of about nine hundred
feet elevation above the river, which promised a good view of
the western country. Unfortunately other hills of nearly the
same elevation cut off part of the prospect. I was able, how-

1 J i

I J'\

l.w^

372

TIIKEE YEARS OF AKCTIO SERVICE.

[June,

-ii

ever, to see a portion of the hog-backs to the northwest, which
I designated as the United States Mountains, and a partly snow-
covered range, somewhat to the southward of them, which I
had named Garfield the preceding spring.

A fine hare, still in fur of perfect white, visited uie while I
was making my observations, ajid exai: lined mo curiously at a
distance of a few yards. As I was not armed he escaped, but
even had I been, I should have hesitated about killing an ani-
mal which, having such great natural timidity, had placed so
much confidence in my kind intentions.

Crossing the main valley I reached the sunnnit of the hill to
the westward, which proved to be a divide of the water-sheds
of the region, that to the west draining into Lake llazen. The
elevation of this divide was about 1,390 feet. From it I had a
beautiful view to the westward, which showed four lakes be-
tween me and the eastern end of Lake llazen. A glacier on
the north side of Lake llazen was also plainly visible to the
naked eye, and showed up finely through the telescope. I
there caught a butterfly, and saw three skuas, two bumble-
bees, and many flies (of three kinds), which, my field journal
says, " are not as plentiful as yesterday."

A very strong wind with high temperature, about 45° (7.2°
C), interfered somewhat with my success in obtaining a set of
circum-meridian observations, as the hill was totally bare of
shelter. The latitude proved to be 81° 49' N.

As 1 passed down the divide to the westward, other lakes came
into view, making eight in all seen during that day's march.
After eleven hours' travelling, on the shoulder of a hill adjacent
to Lake Appleby we made Camp No. 3, June 27tli.

1 quote from my field notes : " Private Biederbick saw two
tern, of which one was shot, and a long-tailed duck. In addi-
tion, a flock of birds from twelve to fifteen in number, resem-

! : i^

1883.]

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

373

bling snipe, but unlike any other species seen by him, were
observed, and also a butterfly. About a mile southwest of the
divide Biederbick picked up a piece of lignite coal, which re-
sembles that of The Bellows and of the mine in Watercourse
Bay. It seems somewhat remarkable that this coal is so widely
spread over the country and that we should find it on the water-
shed of Lake llazen. I have observed reindeer moss in two
places, of quite stunted growth, however. Private Whisler saw
three long-tailed ducks and killed one, which, with the tern,
flavors excellently our stew.

" I find that we are surrounded by a system of small lakes,
M-hich, draining from one into another, form a complete chain
and finally discharge into Lake llazen. The lake of highest
elevation, temporarily named Eogers, drains into Lake Appleby,
and that into Lake Biederbick.

" The chain of lakes discovered are permanent, as without
exception they have a large central section of ice, the winter ice
having melted this summer only at the edges.

" I have obtained time observations and bearings of the sim,
from which the variation at this point is approximately 103.5° W.
From the summit of the hill above the camp I can see part of
Lake llazen and the west end of John's Island. Quite a num-
ber of glaciers are in view, pressing through the gaps in the
(Jarfield range, and what I take to be the higher part of lle?iri-
etta Nesmith glacier is seen in rear of the mountains.

" Later, Whisler, who had been hunting toward Lake llazen,
saw six long-tailed ducks and shot one. Lynn saw nine musk-
oxen within two miles of the camp."

I decided to examine the small lakes to the eastward, buv in
trying to reach the main ice in Lake Appleby, so as to cross it and
avoid a long detour, 1 broke through its edge, and wet myself
to my thighs, and later sent Biederbick in my place, while

•I { 1

■I

.11

III

374

THREE YEAK8 OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[June,

Ul ■

drying my clothing, lie returned after several hours' absence,
bringing a rongh drawing of the lake system as observed by
him. ' Ho reported having seen about sixty long-tailed ducks,
several flocks of turustoncs, several king ducks, Brent geese,
and a tern.

While at this camp, No. 3, wo obtained but little sleep, owing
to the largo swarms of flies, which worried us very much.
Biederbick and I slept in the dog-tent, brt the great heat and
the annoying flies broke our rest and made us thoroughly un-
comfortable. On rising at 2 a.m. the temperature was found
to bo very high, 48° (S.«J° C), with a minimum of 47° (7.8° C.)
since the preceding evening. We felt certahi the temperature
must have touched 50° (10° C), which is a torrid heat for Grin-
nell Land. Dead willows were very plentiful in the vicinity of
our camp, and wo were able to cook entirely with them, and
so reserve our small stock of alcohol.

In early morning the conditions of light were so favorable
that from the hill-top, the outlines of Ave glaciers were plainly
visible in the Garfleld mountains.

At 3.30 A.M., Juno 2Sth, when we again started westward,
the air was uncomfortably hot, with a temperature of 53°
(11.7 C). During this day's travel I found small pieces of
lignite coal to be quite plentiful along the shores of Lake Kil-
bourne. In this lake also there were many small miimows from
three-quarters to an inch and a half in length, several of which
I caught. We crossed, between Lakes Kilbourne and Craig,
a stream two hundred yards long and thirty feet wide, with
an average depth of nine inches, which connected the two
lakes.

Finding the distance very much increased by following the
shores of the lakes, I decided to strike dii-ect across the country,
and in seven hours reached the mouth of the river by which

:i y

and

the

1883.]

summj:r explorations.

375

the lake system drains into Lake llazen. AVitliin a half mile of
Lake llazcn I picked up a large reindeer horn.

As wo were preparing to cross the stream a pair of long-
tailed ducks was seen in the river, and both birds were wounded
by Biederbick at the first shot. The male being the worst hit
could not fly, and as ammunition was scarce Biederbick waited
to get them together to kill them at a single shot. The female
bird would fly away a short distance and then return to the
mate in the stream. Attracted by her calls a second male
came and settled in the water and was fiercely attacked by the
first. The birds were so carried away by anger and passion as
to lose all fear of man, their natural enemy, and allowed us
unnoticed to approach to the river's edge within a few yards of
them. During the fight which followed between the males the
three were easily killed at a shot.

The river was crossed with considerable difficulty, it being
quite wide with a muddy bottom, and we were obliged to carry
most of the articles across on our backs, which was only done
by wetting ourselves to our thighs. As the temperature of tlie
water was but slightly above the freezing-point, our bath in it
was by no means pleasant. While crossing the river a flock of
king ducks and twelve nausk-cattlc were seen. Our route now
followed the south shore of Lake llazen.

The wagon, in the men's vernacular, was a " man-killer," and
the rough, uneven road not only wrenched the men sadly by
the sudden heavy jerks and joltings, but also threatened to
break the vehicle down completely. By loading the knapsacks
to their utmost capacity, and through the system of caching
each day rations for the return journey the load on the wagon
was considerably reduced. Frequent changes from knapsack
to wagon work enabled fair progress to be made.

Marching a few miles farther two islands, parallel with each

(

■i

■!!'

376

TIIUKK YKAKS OF AUCTIC SERVICK.

[June,

otlicr and with the south shore, were discovered in Lake Ilazeii,
one a mile and the other about lialf a mile long. Opposite
them I made camp No. 4, having travelled about twenty miles
in ten hours.

In order to save fuel, the party scattered to collect drift-wood
ahtng the edjjjo of the lake, whic'i consisted chieHy of dried
willows, but Corporal Salor brought in with his willows two
small pieces of unworked pine wood. Sergeant Lynn, while
gathering fuel, saw six musk-cattle on the northeast side of the
lake, and near Camp IJurgomaster — gulls, terns, geese, tiu'n-
stoues, a purple sand-piper, and many skuas were also oijserved.

During the day's march I noticed considerable reindeer-moss
of somewhat stunted growth. Only very rarely had specimens
been seen in the vicinity of Discovery llarboi', and even these
beds near Lake llazon were insufficient for pasturage.

The weather was so warm that all slept in the open air, dis-
daining our uidy covering — a dog-tent, into which four men
could barely crowd.

On stai'ting, at 12.30 a.m., June 2Sth, the temperature stood
at 53° (11.7° C.), with a nunimum of -Iti.S" (8.1° C.) since the
preceding evening. While travelling along the lake I saw two
ptarmigan, which were shot by IJiedorbick. One was in winter
plumage of perfect white, but the other had slightly changed
its snowy coat, being beautifully marked with delicate hues of
browns and yellows which shaded into black.

Xear by I discovered the former site of an old summer en-
campment of the Eskimos. It was situated about twenty ffct
above the level of Lake Ilazen, and just over the brov
divide which separated the main lake frof 1"
had evidently in years past formed an arm lo , self

Searching carefully about a number of bone, \(>refoi .d, and
also pieces of unworked wood, besides a decayed slec v shit of

^r'\

1883.]

a U M M EH EX I'LO U ATK )NS.

377

l>iiio or fir. Tlio cireleH indicated that four tents had been
pitched at tliis place. The surronndliigs of the encainpnient
were marked by luxuriant vegetation t)t" grass, sorrel, poppies,
and other plants. Some specimens of the sorrel in this locality
must have been from eight to ten inches in height, and they
grew in such quantities that wo plucked tliem by the handful.

A short distance beyond the encampment the party were en-
livened by the appearance of a young hai'o, which we concluded
to catch, as he took refuge in a nuiss of rocks. After quite an
exciting chase by the whole party, I succeeded in seizing him.
The high temperature then appeared, by our feelings, to bo
about 100° (3S° C), though probably about do" (15° C.) by the
thermometer, and these extraordinary exertions caused profuse
perspiration, which saturated our clothing.

A short distance above this point, Avhile passing around the
sandy shores of a bay extending inland from the lake, I found two
bone shoes for the runners of a sledge. There were five pieces
of woi'ked bone (of the whale), and the two runners were con>
plete, except a snuill piece, about two inches long, which w\i8
missing from the end of one. Tlie ruimers were imbedded
about a quarter of an inch deep in sandy loam, which had
gradually been deposited fi\-ouiid them in past years l)y water
from the lake. As found they were about two and a half feet
below the highest level of the lake, as shown by the bordering
fringe of gravel and drift-wood. It appeared snrprising, at first,
that they had not been buried entirely by the sand. While this
might augur their recent abandonment, yet the fact that they
were more or less covered, on their exposed parts, with mosses
and lichens would contradict that theory. It seemed prob-
able that high winds, sweeping along the level beach, Avould
gradually nncover articles once completely buried, especially as
the light covering, when dry, diifteil. The deposit of sandy

;

378

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[June,

loam v^as an extensive and level one, such as, from its ap-
])e?.]i'ance, had naturally formed from the action of the lake
while yet under the surface of the water. The gradual sub-
sidence of the lake in winter and the melting of the ice-foot the
following summer left these articles imd'sturbed, while carrying
away the wood.

In making noon observations at camp No. 5, which I
reached some time h\ advance of the men, I found that my
sextant case had evid(!).tly been stopped on the night before,
and one of the shades broken and the instrument possibly in-
jux-ed. Later, on returning to the station, the injury was found
to be such as did not impair the vdue of my observations. A
poor set of latitude observations were obtained, owing to a very
higli gale, which had suddenly sprung up from tie southwest,
and also to the obscuration of the sun.

Camp No. 5 was established at the junction of Lake Ilazen
and Ruggles liiver, the place discovered by me the preceding
April. The cache then left was found imdisturbed.

On arriving at this camp it presented a delightful and
pleasant aspect. The sky was partly covered with true cumulus
clouds, juite rare in Arctic heavens ; the sun marked with
checkered bars of sunshine and shadow the babbliner river,
the large blue pool, and its noisy occupants ; the temperature
was high, and the gay yellow poppies and other iiowers drew
to them gaudy butterflies. If one but turned his back to the
central ice of Lake Ilazen, and the bursting glaciers from the
ice-clad mountains northward of the Garfield Hange, and gazed
southward to the low brown hills faintly tinged with olive-green,
he could well imagine himself in the roaring forties instead of
eight degrees from the geographical pole. Four long-tailed
ducks were noisily swimming and feeding at the junction of the
river, and many turnstoues, with a few skuas and terns, were

1882.]

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

379

flying about. The whole hills on either side were tinged with
gi-een from the fresh leaves of the young willow and an occa-
sional bed of dryas and saxifrages. At this point, and in its
immediate vicinity, a large number of butterflies were seen, of
which there were apparently three different species. They were
so active and distrustful, however, that I succeeded in capturing
but one during the day.

Having some leisure time before tho arrival of the wagon,
I examined carefully the surroundings of the camp. The flora
appeared to be the same as that existing in the vicinity of
Discovery Harbor, with the exception of two flowers, which
were different from any others I had seen. Specimens were
procured and carefully arranged, but unfortunately were
spoiled during my return trip by being soaked beyond recog-
nition while fording the many streams.

It is to be regretted that I had paid but little attention to
Arctic flora, and in the press of other matters neglected to make
a description of tne ^ -olants. Another plant, of the heath fam-
ily, was found in very large quantities, one or two specimens of
wiiich W'o.e sent back safely to Conger.

I was surpi-ised greatly in discoverhig, against a vertical bank
facing lliiggles lliver, three abandoned Eskimo huts, which
doubtless had beeii occupied in the far past as permanent
abodes. These houses were built from large line pieces of slate,
which were readily obtainable from the adjoining rocks. Many
pieces of this slate, as large as three feet by two feet, were lying
around, the thickness of which varied from three-fourths of an
inch to an inch and a half. The Eskimos had utilized the steep,
precipitous bank, against which the back of the houses rested
and in which the chimuevs were built.

The houses were six feet wide and ten feet long, though pos-
sibly they may have been longer, as the walls most distant from

i ;
(I

^TT^

380

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[June,

the bank had fallen and partly disappeared, through being under-
mined by the river. The side walls of the structure were about
three feet in height. Apparently the whole house had been
covered with large pieces of slate, which served as a roof, for
many such pieces were found in the interior space, which was
partly filled by them. It is probable that the width of the
houses depended on the size of the pieces of slate which could
be used as a covering. Xo signs of a ridge-pole, or a wooden
support to the roof, were to be seen. We carefully removed the
flat slabs, and, digging among the dirt and moss, which was of
considei'able depth, found many relics and bones, which were
most numerous near the chimney, or fireplace. Bones of the
musk-ox, hare, and of various birds (and at least one kind of
fish) were found in great abundance. Among other articles
were three combs of walrus ivory, one of which had ornamental
work on it, and whalebone fish-hooks (?), a bone needle (?), and
pieces of whalebone, a shoe for .., sledge-runner, and a number
of other worked articles of bone and M'ood, the use of which
were unknown. A selection was made from the bones, in order
that it might be determined what species of animals had
been killed by the Eskimos who had occupied this place. A
piece of dog-skin of considerable size was also dug out, which
had rotted to such an extent that it fell to pieces when handled.

The main party arrived at camp at 2 p.m., after more than
thirteen hours' steady work, during which we had travelled about
twenty-three miles.

A southwest wind prevailed all day, with cunmlus clouds
and a very high temperature, which I estimated to be 45° (7.2°
C.) at 6 P.M., just after time observations had been made undfer
disadvantageous circumstances.

At 2.45 A.M., June liiOth, we started westward, with a very
high tenipcratn/-'^ of 50° (10° C). The equal altitudes, for

hi 1 1

1882.]

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

381

which I had delayed so long at the camp, were not obtained,
owing to cloudy weather.

During the night Private Biederbick, from one of the ad-
jacent hills, saw a large herd of musk-oxen, fully thirty in
number, besides many calves. In the morning nine others were
seen on the same divide, but to the west of Kuggles Kiver,
which indicated their being different animals from those seen
during the night. A number of terns and long-tailed ducks
were also flying along the open water. Ruggles Eiver, some-
what to my surprise, was but little higher than in the preceding
May, being knee-deep, with a rocky bottom, at the shallowest
point, where we crossed.

After crossing the stream, about fifty yards from its mouth
and the same distance from Lake Hazen, on our direct route,
the remains of an Eskimo habitation were discovered by Private
Whisler, I think. Its entrance passage, facing to the north
toward Lake Ilazen, was twelve feet long and three in width.
About half way between the mouth of the entrance and the
main hut was an opening to the right, a circular space which
was five feet in diameter. It seems probable that this might
have been the storehouse, or possibly have been hitended for
the use of dogs in winter. The main room was seventeen feet
and four inches long by nine feet in width, being in the shape
of an ellipse, the major axis of which was at right angles to the
entrance passage.

One peculiarity of the house was the existence of two fire-
places, one in the east and one in the south end, both of which
had been built outward so as to take up no part of the space of
the room. The sides of the entire habitation were low walls
of sodded earth, which were lined inside by flat, thin slate, the
tops of which, on an average, were elevated about two feet
above the level of the interior floor. The interior next to the

!li

\ ,*

1 1

III

B l|

"•r

■

^ • ■

, ;

; i

'• ^

382

THREE TEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[June,

walls was raised above the centre, forming a ledge, or bench,
which, covered with flat slabs of slate, was probably used for
sleeping purposes, similarly to the wooden platforms in vogue
among the Danish Eskimos.
An hour was occupied in carefully examining these remains

8 r''- TO AN
IrCH.

Plan of Eskimo House, Junctio-. of Hazen Lake and Ruggles River,
{.Front ilraictng hy Lieutenant (Jrceli/^ June, issa. ]

and iii digging in aiid about them at every place where it seemed
probable that anything could be found.

N^ear this was the jemains of what seemed to be a second
habitation, of the same character, but of entailer dimensions.
Near the end of the house was found what I at first took to be
a grave. It wa? a place about four feet long by two wide,
filled with mosb and other vegetation of luxuriant growth,
around the margin of which Avas a row of rpright flat slate
rocks which projected slightly above the surface of the vegeta-

June,

Jlich,
I for
ogue

lains

smed

cond
ions.
;o be
vide,
wth,
slate
i;eta-

1883.]

SUMMEK EXPLORATIONS.

383

tion. With much trouble we dug out the moss and the hard
earth under it to the depth of a foot, when we found that the
bottom was covered with flat slate stones. One or two of
these were pulled up with considerable difficulty, but the only
object which rewarded our labor was a small piece of worked
bone, which had evidently been left there by accident. The
conclusion to which we came after the examination, was that it
had possibly been the provision cache, which was thus arranged
to secure the meat from the dogs, but of this we felt by no
means certain.

In the two houses and in the immediate vicinity we collected
about forty pieces of wood and worked bone. Among other
articles were one large and two small narwhal horns, two walrus-
ivory toggles for dog-traces, such as are now used by the Green-
landers ; an arrow-head, two bone handles, a skinning-knife with
bone handle and iron blade, a bear's tooth, whalebone shoes for
the runners of two sledges, and a wooden upstander with a care-
fully made and well-litted bone top. Several sledge-bars, some
of bone and others of wood, and a complete wooden sledge-
ruimer, which was very heavy, being five feet long, nine inches
high, and over two inches thick, were also discovered.

Among other pieces of wood was a pole, nine feet long and
about two inches in diameter, of a har^I, close-grained, coniferous
wood, probably fir or hard pine. Tarts of two wooden sledge-
runners were badly rotted, but rue was yet in fair condition.

There were several articles ol" worked bone whose use I could
not surmise, and the character of which were unknown to our
own Eskimo. The bone articles were of walrus, narwhal, and
whalebone, the first being the predominating material, from
which small articles had been made. Musk-ox and hare bones
were very plentiful.

" It appears evident," my journal says, " that these Eskimos

^TN:

im I

I V

384

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[Jane,

I I

i; < ii

;{P 1^

/ .

had dogs, sledges, arrows, and skiiiiiiHg knives, and fed on
musk-oxen, seals, hares, and occasionally tish. While this
habitation does not appear to have been covered with stones,
as were those found by nie on the east side of the river, yet the
arrangements indicate more than a summer encampment."

It is more than probable that these habitations were covered
with skin roofs, Avhich must have been secured in a different
manner from the Greenland method, as no circles of stone were
found. The construction of these houses certainly entailed a
large amount of work. In quitting them, the roof and its sup-
ports must have been entirely removed. It is possible that the
long pole found may have been nsed in some manner as a sup-
port for the roof. It is extraordinary that, in abandoning this
country, they should have left behind the pole and the sledges,
■which were very valuable, unless, indeed, their dogs perished
there. The depth at which the dog-toggles and other bone
articles were discovered indicate their having been left by
accident where found, as they were covered by debris, which
evidently accumulated during the occupancy of these huts.

The surroundings were carefully examined for graves, as dur-
ing the occupancy, covering at least two years, of habitations of
such size it was likely some one must have died. No traces of
any human remains could be found, nor, indeed, of the dogs ;
but, in the case of the latter, their uncared for remains would
have been devoured and their bones removed by foxes or
wolves. It is pertinent to remark that nnisk-ox or other ex-
pected bones were rarely found in Grinnell Land.

Nearly an hour was spent in the examination of these re-
mains, after which we started westward. From an adjacent
hill I plainly saw that the valley north of John's Island, visited
by Bender in April, was filled with a glacier, the front of which,
however, is three or four miles distant from the lake. Exam-

■N

1883.]

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

385

ining the valley with a telescope, it was plain that the glacier
discharges into Lake llazen by a river opposite the eastern end
of John's Island, or behind a range of low hills near by, but
the former seemed to be the more probable point, A second
glacier, a little farther to the westward and about five miles
distant from the lake, probably dischai-ges by a river opposite
the middle of the same island.

During this day's march I found a large reindeer's antler,
and Corporal Salor saw a bumble-bee and a " devil's darning-
needle." Butterflies were very numerous, as many as fifty
being seen during the day. After six hours' travelling I stopped
the party for lunch, during which I took a set of circum-
meridian observations and compass bearings of the important
points. The place where we lunched was also the farthest for
Salor and Whisler, who were turned back to the home station,
as their farther presence would have been of no benefit to iia.
With this view their blanket sleeping-bag had been left at
camp No. 5, to which they returned during this march.

The weather during the day was excessively hot, and we suf-
fered extremely. The attached thermometer of the aneroid
barometer, which was carried always in the shade, stood at 74°
(23.3° C), and the exposed thermometer, though swung repeat-
edly for seven minutes in the air, could not be got to read lower
than 73° (22.8° C). This temperature was certainly a very re-
markable one to be experienced in such a high latitude, but I
am confident as to its reliability within one or two degrees.

After eleven hours' marching we made camp No. 6, on the
eastern bank of Cobb River, a narrow, rapid stream about two
feet deep, whicli drains the country to the southward.

The day's march carried us farther along the shores of Lake

llazen than I had reached in May, and now a new, undiscovered

country was gradually opening to our view.
S5

''TJll

^ I

386

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[June,

■! Ji

While dinner was being prepared I ascended a hill to the
southward, which was by barometer four hundi'cd feet higher
than the plateau on which we camped. From this point 1 could
])lainly see that Cobb Iliver for about four miles Hows from the
south, and by a break in the hills I judged ita upper portion to
come from the east, thus draining the country to the southeast.
To the southward the hills gradually rose to an elevation of two
thousand feet, but in all the extent of country' within sight there
was no snow or ice, except such as was to be seen in the centre
of Lake Ilazen, or visible in the form of glaciers flowing down
through the valleys of the Garfield llange.

On an adjacent hill, about three hundred feet above and com-
manding an extensive view of the lake, 1 found an Eskimo
meat cache, near which were signs of fire, although no burnt
fragments of any kind remained probably having been swept
away by the high winds.

My field notes say : " During our day's travel the wagon-
wheel has dished twice, and is in bad condition, but we hope to
get it a long distance to the westward, though we shall undoubted-
ly be obliged to pack all our effects in returning. Several nnisk-
cattle and a number of hares have been seen to-dav, thoui-h wo
have not been fortunate enough to obtain either. The musk-
cattle did not appear to mind revolver shots at forty or fifty
yards. The birds seem to be disapi>earing, as we have seen
only a duck and a goose durii:g the day.

" At 4 r.M. the temperature of the air was G7° (19.4:'' C.) in
the shade. In order to determine it correctly, I plunged the
thermometer in the river, and was surprised at the temj)crature
of the water being 45° (7.2° C). The only inference to be
drawn is that the river must fiow a long distance from the
supply of snow which feeds it. The thermometer, after bf>ing
taken from the river and carefully wiped, rose slowly in the

1882.]

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

387

i I

shade to 64° (17.8° C), which must be accepted as correct.
The very high temperature of the air to-day explains the tem-
perature of the river, and we cannot do otherwise than believe
that the temperature of the interior of Grinnell Land must bo
considerably higher in summer, and correspondingly lower in
wintei', than the coast regions.*

"Vegetation is ;ery luxuriant at certain spots passed to-day,
but in the innnodiate vicinity of our camp the willow was
scarce, and so supper was cooked with alcohol. We were able
to collect sufficient wood to cook our morning meal."

Longitude observations and magnetic bearings were made at
camp No. C, on Cobb River, from which the declination was
108° "VV. A small cairn was erected at the camp, in which was
cached a day's i-ations for our returning journey, and about -1
A.M., June 30th, we started westward, the temperature of the
air being 49° (9.4° C), and that of the river 45.5° (7.5° C).

Two herds of nmsk-oxen, of four and five heads respectively,
were seen just after leaving camp, and later three other herds,
aggregating thirty-one head. Four revolver shots were fired
into a large bull within a distance of twenty feet, by Sergeant
Lynn, but the animal escaped.

AVe had nmcii trouble with our wagon, the whejl dishing fre-
quently, and after about six hours'' labor, din-ing which frequent
stops were made to repair it, I concluded that nothing was to be
done but abandon the vehicle and travel with packs. With a
view to this contingency, knapsacks had been brought with us.

On one occasion, while the wagon was being repaired, I had a

* In connection with the high teuiperature oxporieuced by us, it is well to
note that on the same date the temperature rose to 51.2 (10.7 C.) at Couger,
which was the highest ever there experienced, except the temperature of 53"
(11.7' C.) two days following. The temperature inland was consequently
about 30" (11' C.) higher than on the shores of Discovery Bay.

i II

!*!

388

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

[June,

fine view of Henrietta Nesmitli glacier, winch was directly
north of its. The glacier was exauiincd carefully with field-
glass and telescope. The iriaiu glacier is formed from five
streams of ice pressing downward from the ice-cap in the rear
of the Garfield Range. A tributary of the glacier flows in from
the west about four miles above the snout, and the second and
third from the northwest about seven and ten miles respectively
inward. The main stream of ice comes nearly from the north,
being separated from the last tributary by a rounded mountain
spur which cuts off the horizon in that direction, but in all other
quarters was an ice-horizon which covered thirteen degrees of
azimuth. A number of bare peaks showed up on its eastern
side, which defined plainly its limits in that direction, at least
near the lake. The discolored strata, observed by me in May,
in the face of the glacier is now fully explained, being the
abraded soil from mountain spurs at the confluence of the main
stream of ice and the tributary branches. Under slightly
changed conditions the faint streak of earthy sediment would
be supplemented by well-defined medial moraines, no traces of
which could be observed, though careful search was made for
them by telescope.

The break-down of our wagon was a great draw-back to our
success. We had travelled over a hundred miles from Conger,
and I expected to make an equal distance farther to the west.
With packs our distance nnist be now quite limited, but we
accommodated oiu'selves to the new order of affairs.

After a hearty lunch I directed Lynn and Biedcrbick each to
take what they thought they could carry, and I did the same.
Lynn took forty-five pounds, Biederbick fifty-seven pounds, and
I thirty-one pounds, as our regular loads. My load was smaller
than the others, through my inability to put anything additional
in it, or on my knapsack, for fear of injuring my sextant. Be-

1883.]

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

389

Bidos tho combined loads, a bag (f hard bread weigliing over
thirty-seven pounds was taken, whicli was to bo carried alter-
nately by Lynn and Biederbick, who were occasionally relieved
by me. By this arrangement Lynn carried half tho time
eighty-two pounds, and Biederbick ninety-four pounds, while I
occasionally carried sixty-eight. These loads, if they could bo
carried, enabled us to start with sixteen days' rations of twenty-
nine ounces solid food — insufficient for proper nutrition, but we
thought wo could make it do. Wo took no tent, but simply a
blanket sleeping-bag large enough for the three, and no cloth-
ing besides that in wear, except dry stockings.

Opposite Wagon Hill, where tho wheels were abandoned,
were two small islands, one of which was named Dyas Island.
Having so arranged the articles abandoned that they would be
safe from foxes, and placed the wagon so prominently that it
could be easily found, we shouldered our ])acks and again turned
our faces to " imknowu regions."

I i^

i n

CllAPTEIl XXVllL

SUMMKK KXI'LOUATIONS {ConclluletT),

WE soon crossed ft vivcr, an iinportaJit tributary of the lake,
about a hundred yards wide and eighteen inclies deep,
flowing witli great ra])idity. "We were wet above our knees,
much to our subsequent discomfort in travelling.

Ten musk-cattlo were seen shortly after, on one of which the
revolver was tried without effect. This lierd was grazuig in
the vicinity of several sunnuer ponds 'which luul formed on the
plateau a short distance from Lake Ilazen. The vegetation was
the most rank I have seen in the polar regions. Grass in con-
sideraljlc quantity grew at the margin of these shallow lakes to
the height of eighteen or twenty inches.

The heavy loads, and the rough character of the country over
which we travelled, exhausted us about ten hours after leaving
camp Xo. G, during which time we had nuirched seventeen miles.
It M-as evident that JJicdorbick, and possibly Lynn, was over-
loaded. The former, ambitious to do his very best, sadly over-
taxed his strength during the day. We accordingly made camp
Xo. T near Lake Ilazen.

Being anxious as to our prospects, I walked some four miles
to the westward to the sunnnit of a very prominent hill, whence
could be seen a break in the low hills indicating a valley, from
which issues a river that empties into the northwest end of
Lake Ilazen. The Garfield Ilange appeared to end a short dis-
tance to the westward, there being seen beyond Mount Whisler

39;.

TIIKEE TEAKS OF ARCTIC SEUVICE.

■l'".:

■ hI I

only one mountain, of considerable less elevation (Mount
Connell).

During this side trip I found a piece of luitanned reindeer-
skin, two incheo by one in'tli in size, with a piece of sinew still
attached to th.e inner side. The hair was lirnil} attached to the
skin, and the whole piece was in an excellent state of preserva-
tion. My journal says : " It does not seem to me that it could
have been in its present place over four or five years. One of
the edges seems to have been cut with a knife. There was no
snow in the valley where it was found."

"\Vc cached at camp Ko. 7 a day's return rations aiid all our
alcohol, as the small cooking-lamp had been lost since leaving
the wagon, and so lightened our load about twenty-three
pounds. AVe readjusted the weights, also, as far as practicable,
Lynn carrying forty-seven to sixty-eight pounds and Eiederbick
fifty-one to seventy-two pounds, there being a package of
twenty-one pounds which was carried by them alternately.

We came to another river, twenty-five yards wide and two
feet deep, which we succeeded in crossing near the lake, where
it was a quarter of a mile wide and so shallow that the water did
not go over our boot-i-ops. Light rain commenced shortly afur,
and, to avoid being soaked, Ave rested under the side of a large
rock and protected ourselves by stret.^hing the sleeping-bag over
our s) oulders for s nne t^venty minuijs. Crossing a high, rocky
hill we came to a broad valley, where a wide, swift river, knee-
dee \ flows into Lake Ilazen from the south. In crossing this
river we were wet to our thighs and left in a very uncomfortable
condition, as the water was icj' cold.

Yfe saw (shortly afterward a herd of fourteen nuisk-cattlo,
wliich were too wild to be easily approached.

Leaving this valhy we reached the summit of a broad, high
ridge, some four hundred feet above the level of Lake llazen.

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

393

This afforded a fine vie of a second valley (Very Valley), which,
though two or three miles wide, seemed narrow on account of
the lofty, precipitous hills which enclose it.

We descended into Very Valley with great difficulty, ow-
ing to the precipitous sides, and made camp No. 8 near the
river which was flowing through its centre, which I had named
Very River. I camped early, after eleven miles' march, as
Biederhick showed signs of illness and was quite worn out with
his heavy load, although I relieved him a little at times. lie
thought that if we rested a while he would be able to proceed.
The work was very trying on Lynn and myself, and we were
but little less exhausted than Biederhick.

My journal says : " We arc camped about two hundred yards
south of Very lliver — a broad stream which divides irto many
channels opposite us, lea\ing an island of considerable size
which I have named Biederhick Island. About four hundred
yards up the river from the camp the streams flow into one
channel, which, in its half mile of width, shows no break or
flats. A second river runs parallel to it, and from the high
cliffs back of our camp was seen to be separated from Very
liiver for six or seven miles by a narrow ridge, which ■•.vas
some three hundred feet in elevation. This second river, named
Adams, rises to the northwestward, and evidently drains the
country in that (piarter, as it flows through a break between the
Garfield Kange and a distant range of mountains to the west,
which I have called Conger Mountains. This unites with Very
lliver a mile or more to the westward of Lake Ilazen. The
valley of Very liiver, as seen from here, is about twelve miles
long and averages ujie and a half miles in width. AVhilu the
liiils southward of Very River are but three hundred feet high,
those to the northward of Adams River rise up sharply to an
elevation of a thousand feet or more. Back of these high hills

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394

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

't'i]

appears the Garfield Range, through occasional depressions of
which are visible the hog-back peaks of the United States Moun-
tains covered with eternal snow or ice,"

Our stay at camp No. 8 was very uncomfortable, as occa-
sional light rain fell for seven hours, which saturated us, we
having no protection except a blanket sleeping-bag covered with
light canvas. I delayed until 6 r.ir., hoping for latitude and
time observations, as well as the improvement of Biederbick,
but was disappointed in all resjiects. I finally decided to send
him to Conger, and proceed with Sergeant Lynn.

Biederbick was ordered to return to the wagon, where ho
could protect himself with the shelter-tent, and was furnished
with a fire-proof tin and cup for cooking utensils. At each
cache he was to leave a note of his condition. " I feel doubt-
ful,'" says my journal, " about permitting him to return alone,
as we are a great distance from the home station, but he insists
upon his ability to reach it safely, and begs that his sickness
may not interfere with the success of my jcurney."

Just as I was leaving the camp the clouds broke, and I suc-
ceeded in getting an indifferent set of time observations. "Wiiilo
at this work we saw five birds, which I examined carefully
through a glass, as did Sergeant J^ymi. We decided that they
were of the plover family, and were not golden plover, but
from the rings around their necks we concluded they were the
ringed species. Their phunage was .'ishy gray, with a well-
marked white band around tlie neck, and I should have con-
sidered them the ringed-neck plover, Aeg'uditis semijmlmuta,
but as that species was nut pi'ubable, I concluded tney nnist
be Aegialitis hlaticula.

Starting from camp Xo. 8, Lymi carried sixty-foin* pounds
and I foi ty-seven. *vhicli gave us ten days' short rations. After
an hour's travelling, while taking bearings, I found thai; the

^Ci«

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

305

fire-proof cup for cooking purposes had been lost by me, through
the strap of the liaversack becoming loose. Sergeant Lynn
went back to find it, and, after an absence of nearly two hours,
returned unsuccessful. Ho found on the way a nest of five
small eggs, which he cached for our return. We supposed them
to be of the plovers seen by us, though somewhat doubtful of
it, as they seemed too large for so small a bird, being over an
inch long.

While he was gone 1 collected a quo'^+ity of dry willows, with
which I succeeded in drying a portion or my wet clothing.

We marched but nine miles, and at 1 a.m., of July 7ti: we
made camp Iso. 9 on a plateau overlooking Very River, where
we were driven on account of quite heavy rain falling, evidently
the western edge of a rain-storm which was well marked toward
Lake llazen. While camping eight musk-oxen were seen on
the northwest side of the river.

Wc remained in our bags ten hours, getting but little gleep,
owing to our clothing, which was very damp and iu places
saturated. Quitting our sleeping-bag, and ascertaining that our
butter-can was fire-proof, we hunted up wood, and in a few
minutes had a warm stew of pennuican.

Cloudy weather interfered with satisfactory cireum-meri(lian
observations at this camp.

At noon of the 2d we travelled along the valley on a broad
plateau, which was about half way between Very Iliver and
the high, precipitous cliffs to the southward. An hour's march
brought us to a point where a fine landscape was in view. My
Journal says: " A broad caiion-like ravine shows up to the north-
eastward, through which flows a river that evidently rises in the
country west of Mount Whisler. Through the low space of the
ravine snow-clad hills and mountains show up beyond Mount
Whisler. The lust mountain rises sharply above the high cliffs

1 ^

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396

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

;'i, i

tc the northward of Very lliver. In one ravine the front of a
large glacier was visible to the westward of Mount Whisler."
"We saw here five herds of niusk-cattlo, aggregating thirty-one
head, one herd of which had several calves.

A few miles farther the valley narrowed, and I thought it
advisable to stop for tea, as we had taken none in the early
morning, and the character of the country appeared about
changing, so that dead willow might eventually disappear.
While tea was being made I walked ahead to a prominent
point. My journal says : " The stones are very sharp and
thick, and the banks of the river very precipitous. In one
place the stream comes up to the plateau, and a fresh landslide
of two hundred yards has recently fallen into the river, which
at that point seems very deep. At the point reached by me
the stream nearly tills the valley, a quarter of a mile in width.
The river flows now from the south, much to my disappoint-
nicjit, and, from the configuration of the hills and country
ahead, it seems to me to derive its source from a second lake
like Lake Ilazen. IJeyond this point we had hoped the branch
would riow from the south and the main stream from the north-
west. At times wo have already been driven to precipitous
hills, atul again, owing to their steepness, into the edge of the
river itself, to make progress."

Tea over, we started southward, with the temperature at 40°
(4.4:° C). As fog had set in we were unable to see the country
to the westwarci. A short distance beyond we met with a large
tributary coming into the river from the east, a rapidly running
stream from two to three feet deep. We followed up this river
for a quarter of a mile, but the chances of crossing did not im-
prove, and we were driven to ford it, which M'as done with dif-
ficulty. The current was so strong, and the bottom so rough,
that thrown on some protruding rocks, I was not only soaked

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

397

to the waist, but sprained iny right wrist slightly. Sergeant
Lynn, crossing iu another place, escaped with few bruises, but
was soaked to the thighs. My journal says : " The stream,
. from its gradient, cannot come from any great distance, although
the volume of water in it is very great."

About a mile beyond this tributary we came to a place where
we were unable to follow the river, owing to the abrupt char-
acter of the banks, and to proceed farther it would be necessary
to scale a very precipitous hill. The fog had turned to rain,
and we were in such an uncomfortable and wretched condition
that 1 concluded it would behest to make camp No. 10, although
wo had travelled less than eleven miles.

We obtained seven hours' unsatisfactory r< this camp,

and after a luncheon of hread and pemmican. .^led down with
ice-water, cached a day's provisions for our return journey and
started onward. My sprained wrist rained me greatly, scarcely
permitted me to make notes, and inl erf ered seriously with my
progress over the crest of the hill, which was so steep that it
could only be climbed with great exertions.

During this march we saw a ptarmigan and heard a snow-
bii'd, the last birds toward the interior.

The day's travel was made over a wretched route, as the river
filled the whole of the narrow valley, except in occasional places
where rapid tributaries entered the main stream. Our path-
way lay either over projecting ledges at the edge of the river,
or along steep hills of loose, broken rocks which were scarcely
passable. Several tributaries were passed during the day, and
at the junction of one we were driven by rain to the sleeping-
bag for a short time.

Six hours' travel from camp No. 10 we put foot on the first
snow found, or indeed seen, by us, except on very high hill-tops,
since leaving Fort Conger. It was a mass of ice overlain with

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398

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIO SERVICE.

snow, seemingly the beginning of a small glacier. A few miles
farther the country was more open, the hills became lower, and
the valley widened. Snow in considerable quantities was now
frequently met with, and, finding a comparatively dry spot on a
high plateau, we made camp No. 11, after over eight hour^'
march, during which we tra'. elled eighteen miles. I was just
in time to get a poor set of circum-meridian observations. Wo
were nuicli exhausted by our exertions, as we had travelled at
our best gait despite the rough road, hoping and expecting
hourly to reach the sunmiit of Grinnell Land.

Frequent rain, which in some places froze as it fell, kept
us in our bag for seventeen hours. The confinement, while
affording us considerable rest, was very severe, owing to the
low tenqicrature, and the fact that sleeping-bag and clothing
had now been constantly wet for three days. We had no fuel
with which to warm our food, but as it was the 4th of July, we
celebrated the day by a half gill of rum and lime-juice com-
bined, and after eating a piece of penunican and hard bread
travelled on, caching a day's provisi(jns for our return. Before
leaving the clouds fortunately broke, and I was able to obtain
observations for magnetic variation, which proved to be 114° W.

Crossing another tributary we found the main river largely
reduced in size, and the greater part of the country covered
with wet snow, underlain with nnid and water. After about
three hours' travel, having reached a dry spot on the summit
of a small hill, which was like an oasis in a desert of snow, we
dropped at that point our sleeping-bag, and everything but
glasses, couqiass, and a lunch, and started to ascend a high moun-
tain which was in view a few miles to the southwest.

We found the walking very heavy, the snow nearly knee-
deep, with water half a foot to a foot deep under the surface
of the snow. Occasionally we were able to find a bare spot

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

399

of ground where soft mud about two or three inches deep was
equally as trying as the snow.

At the base of the mountain, which I named Mount C. A.
Arthur, the river divided into two large brooks, one of which
sprang from a deep ravine in the veiy heart of the mountain,
and the other from a narrow valley between this mountain and
Mount Lynn to the northward. At the junction of these
brooks, which was reached at 11 a.m., the barometer stood at
27.17. After two hours' steady climbing, I reached the sum-
mit of '•he mountain in a thoroughly worn-out condition. The
barometer stood at 25.35, indicating an ascent of over eighteen
hundred feet, and an elevation above the sea of forty-five hun-
dred feet.*

The travelling was of such an exhausting character that
Sergeant Lynn was unable to follow me, and after wading
about a half mile in snow four feet deep, underlain with water
two feet deep, he was so worn out that I sent him back to the
jimctiou of the brooks, where he was ordered to await my i-e-
turn. In my tired condition 1 could never have reached the
top, except as a matter of honor and duty. Frequently I
crawled on my hands and knees a long distance; at one time as
far as a quarter of a mile. At times I threw the glasses ahead
of me, so as to make it cei-tain I should proceed. AVhen about
fifteen hundred feet beli^w the summit of the mountain, travel-
ling improved, as the underlying water disappeared.
" "\Vlien I Avas about a half mile from the top farther progress

* I think Mount Arthur the highest mountain in Grinnell Land, it being by
barometrical measurement fifty foot above the highest peak of the Victoria
Range ascended by Lieutenant Lockwood. Jlount Grant has a greater height
on the late Admiralty chart, but on somewhat doubtful authority, as it was
never visited ; and Nares, on his origii-al map, says, " estimated height about
three thousand feet."

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400

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

seemed impossible. My strength failed me, my eight dimmed,
and my throat became parched and thirst intolerable, while
perspiration poured oft' me profusely. I revived myself by
rest, and by eating snow, a doubtful expedient even in summer.
After that I could walk only a hundred, and later lifty, steps at
a time, but finally the summit was reached.

As 1 had been travelling for over five hours with my boots
filled with ice-water, kept at the lowest temperatiu'C by the
snow, I found, on reaching the summit of the mountain, that
my left foot had lost all sense of feeling, and that there was but
little sensation in my right. Knowing the danger of perishing
by freezing, I kept moving steadily, as that was my only safety.

The sunnnit of the mountain was a level, unbroken e.xpanso
of snow, about a half mile in diameter. I was unable to get
any satisfactory compass bearings, as when sitting down to the
compass no peak could be seen in any direction. I had no
snow-knife or other instrument with which to erect a pedestal.
I attempted to take bearings standing, but all were unsatis-
factory, and in consequence I located everything with relation
to the Sim. When within nine hundred feet of the top, at the
base of the main cone, the surrounding liills were so high that
no view beyond them was possible, but from the very summit
the view was a remarkable and extensive one. There was no
doubt of my being on the crest of Grinnell Land, where the
farther side drained to the western Polar Sea.

My journal says : " The whole country seems spread out be-
fore me as on a map. A second chain of mountains (Conger
Mountains) is seen extending to the westward as the prolonga-
tion of the Garfield Range. They are separated by a break of
eight or ten miles from Mount AVhisler, which is the most
westerly of the Garfield Chain. ^Northward of the Coi-ger and
Garfield Ranges are a confused mass of hog-back mountains, all

I .

StTMJrER EXPLORATIOiS-S.

401

entirely snow-clad, which I include in the designation of United
States Mountains. The valley northward of Mount Whislcr
extends to the eastward about half way to Henrietta JS'^esmith
glacier, and from that point to the eastwai-d the rest of the
Crarfield Ilango is crowded closely against the United States
^Mountains, evidently being the only obstacle which prevents
the glacial ice-cap fron. overflowing the country to the south-
ward. The overlapping, rounded tops of ice-clad mountains
can bo distinguished fo) at least twenty miles to the northeast-
ward beyond the Henrietta i\esmith glacier, which nuist be
nearly forty miles distant itself.

" To the westward the valley between the Conger and United
States Mountains opens out or widens in that direction. The
mountains themselves, after extending a great distance, trend
gradually to the northwestward, probably terminating in the
Challenger i-ange of Aldrich.

" With the following exceptions, there is visible as far as the
eye can reach, say fifty miles, only low, rounded hills inter-
sected with numerous ravines, which, outside of a radius of ten
to fifteen miles from Mount Arthur, are generally bare of snow.
By low hills are meant those from fifteen hundred to twenty-
five lumdred feet high. Did not the countiy in all directions
resemble to the eye that which I had just travelled over from
Lake JIazen, I might think it a plateau country, as was sup-
posed by Lieutenant Archer. The most important exception is
fi-om the west-southwest to southwest, where a depression in
the hills discloses a range of partly snow-clad mountains, dis-
tant not less than, and pei-haps much over, seventy-five miles. I
cannot but think this depression drains the western country
into a channel or strait between the near hills and the distant
mountains, and that the range is situated on a separate land."

The north and south ends of the range were cut off from
26

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!/■: i

402

TllKEK YEARS OF AUCTIO SEUVIUK

view by the liills, but it can not in any way bo joined to tlio
Conger Ivange. Again, due southward was seen, about forty
miles distant, a prominent mountain rising sharply on its eastern
point ami showing a Hat top, whicli extended westward and
gradually (perhaps from perspective) merged into the low hill.

In the southeast there was a prominent ])eak, with a few illy-
defined snow-clad mountains, evidently tlie western slo])e of the
Victoria and Albert llange.

Eastward appeared what 1 took to be IMount Neville, of Archer,
while the very top of a slightly lower peak to its north was
clearly visible, the lower part, however, covered from view by
a pencil or low bank of level clouds, which seemed to lie along
Archer Fiord and extend a great distance to the westwaril.
This low line of clouds was doubtless mist rising from the face
of the southern ice-cap, similar to the veil of mist seen a few
days later in front of Henrietta Nesmith glacier. Its presence
prevented my discovering this ice-cap, which was so successfully
traced by Lieutenant Lockwood tlie following year. Except this
low-lying cloud, the air was very clear, in the condition known
to meteorologists as visibility.

It was evident to me that no sea could bo reached that trip,
and that farther travel would add nothing to our knowledge of
the country, as we could hardly hope to proceed farther than
twenty miles at the most.

During the twenty minutes I was on the summit a cold north-
west wind sprang up, which chilled me through and warned me
to leave. Constant movement was necessary to prevent me
from freezing, and, as it was, my damp clothing was covered
with thick hoar-frost in a few moments.

I had ascended the southeast side of the mountain, where the
gradient was easiest, but I decided to descend on the north side
by a direct route toward Mount Lynn. Near the base of the

8UMMEU EXPLORATIONS.

408

monntaiu I found a ronmrkiiblo lino of almost vertical snow-
banks and di'ifts, the front of which ranged from a hundred to
a hundred and fifty feet in height. Benig worn out with fatigue
and cold, and to save a long detour, I concluded to chance a
bad fall by descending the drifts, and so slid down at a place
a hundred feet high, fortunately landing in deep, soft snow.

The first bare ground reached was about nine hundred feet
below the summit, the barometer reading 20.05, which made the
snow-lino about thirty-eight hundred feet above the level of
the sea. No earth capable of vegetation was seen on any part
of the mountain or at its base, although on the southern side of
Mount Lynn lichens and pur])le saxifrage {Sa,vifi'U<ja oj)imi-
tifolla) were seen.

I rejoined yergeant Lynn at 2.20 i'.ai., and my left foot,
without sensation for a cou])le of hours, was vigorously treated
by Lynn until the circulation and sensation returned.

. Our flag was displayed from the summit of Mount Arthur,
but as the inun and lime-juice were carried by Lynn, we were
obliged to driidc the health of the Tresident, Our Coiintrv. and
the Day at the base of the mountain instead of on the summit,
as we had planned. A small cairn was erected on the side of
Mount Lynn, about forty yards above the junction of the
creeks, and carefully inserted in (^ne of my shoulder-straps was
left a brief record of our visit to the mountain.

We reached the camp quitted that morning, after twelve hours'
absence, exceedingly fatigued by twenty miles' travel and veiy
uncomfortable with wet clothing and cold feet. I succeeded in
obtaining a set of equal altitudes that evening and the following
morning, which, with the latitude obtained near the camp,
satisfactorily determined our position.

I desired to exaraine the country to the eastward before re-
turning to Fort Conger, but the condition of oar foot-gear pre-

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THREE YEAE8 OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

eluded this work. Lynn's boots were in a very dilapidated
condition, and my own were but little better, so, after a few
hours' sleep, we turned our faces toward home. Two hours'
travel carried us beyond the last snow, where tracks and traces
of musk-cattle were observed, one calf being among the num-
ber, and near bv the first live willows were seen. This
proves that the musk-ox crosses at times to the western ehore of
Grinnell Land, even if he has not migrated to Greenland from
the Parry Islands by way of the western instead of the southern
shores of Grinnell Land. Many butterflies were observed during
the day. At one point we were delighted by the sight of four
beautiful snow-clad peaks, visible to the northwestward througli
a break in the low hills, A snow-bunting vvas also heard, the
only species of bird found until Lake Hazen was again reached.

After nine hours' steady and rapid travel we made camp No.
13, " having travelled about twenty-two miles over an exceed-
ingly rough road. Our very light loads have enabled us to pass
by routes impracticable with heavy packs. What is left of our
boots has hardened through alternate soaking and drying until
they are like cast-iron. Lynn's ankles are very badly galled ;
my own less so. "VVe are now camped opposite a large tributary
of the Very River, which was not seen by ixs on our outward
trip, owing to fog veiling it as we passed. It flows from the
westward, and has been temporarily named W. II. Lewis River.
Througli its broad valley a number of partly snow-covered
mountains are visible. We are now enjoying a bright sun,
whicli, for the first time in five days, permits us to dry our cloth-
ing. We are also eating our first warm food in four days.

'• After taking a set of time observations we had dinner, and
since then have devoted some time to repairing our clothing,
which is badly torn. I visited the river-side a short time since,
with a vague idea of crossing and examining the opposite valley,

g. »rrf« li O i ti l J^ . r . -ffli-lnf^^^ B ^ BS^S?

•»«i«

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

405

but Very Kiver was so deep and swift that I dared not venture
into it. It was perhaps as well we could not cross, as our boots
are now worn so thin that the stones seriously bruise oar feet.

" I am much surprised at the large amount and the luxuriant
character of the vegetation in this valley. There are extensive
^ iches of thriving green willow, which cover the ground for
hundreds of square yards. In other places saxifrages, dryas,
Arctic poppies, and bunch-grass are equally abundant. Dead
willow is 10 be found in large quantities, some of which is two
inches thick at the base.

" The steep cliffs on the western side of Very River are shaded
in various tinges of green, which, well marked, prove the exist-
ence of willows or luxuriant mosses on the shoulders of their
sharp slopes.

"We are now stretched out on a spot of dry sand, with bright
sun, no wind, the temperature about 50° (10° C), plenty of
grass and water, and a bright fire before us. The green hills,
fertile valley, and mountains devoid of snow, except upon their
very summits, rather impress me with a feeling that I am
camping in one of our Western Territories, and not in latitude
81° 30'. N."

On July 6th we travelled steadily for over nine hours, and
succeeded in covering the same distance as was made in two of
our outward marches. Our camp was made very near camp
Ko. 7. We passed an unsatisfactory night, however, as we had
necessarily wet our lower clothing in fording the many streams,
and a high cold gale blew all night. I was so worn out and un-
comfortable that I slept only while breakfast was being cooked,
perhaps three-fourths of an hour.

From our camp the Henrietta Nesmith glacier presented a
beautiful appearance. It was concealed from view the greater
part of the time by a veil of rising vapor, which, driven by the

406

TIIKEE YEAES OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

!!•

high wind eastward, allo./ed the ice to show up most pictu-
resquely through the torn rifts of the forming cloud.

July 7tl- we passed the ahandoned wagon, where a note from
Biederbick reported his arrival and departure in fair condition.
"We took what was possible from the wagon, and in twelve
hours, by taking all short cats possible, reached the junction of
Knggles River and Lake Ilazen. We travelled a steady gait up
hill and down, over bad road or good, determined to take no rest
until we should retrace the distance travelled in two days' out-
ward journey.

On reaching that river I found it had risen considerably since
we went west, and now was of such a depth, with so swift a cur-
rent, that it was not pleasant to think of fording it.

During the day Lynn had carried seventy pounds' weight,
and I about sixty-iive. My zeal for science was sadly tried this
day by a patent plant-press, in which were carried botanical speci-
mens. In whatever conceivable manner I arranged the press, it
speedily admonished me that it would carry easier in any other
position. I once turned it over to Lynn, and took in its place
five times its weight, but, after watching his despair for several
miles, received it ba(jk, and did penance the rest of the march.
At the end of the day, sad and bruised, I took out the plants
and laid the press carefully on a boulder, where it probably
remains to this day.

Of the relics at Ruggles River, Salor and Whisler had been
ordered to take as many back to Conger as they could carry.
We found remaining from one hundred and fifty to two hun-
dred pounds' weight, which, unfortunately, was on the wrong
side of the river. Stripping off our lower clothing and taking
about a hundred pounds' weight, I entered the river first, find-
ing the current so strong, that if I had not been weighted down
I could scarcely have crossed. The water reached my hips, and

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SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

407

was at a temperature of 32.6° (0.3° C), just above freezing. I
had intended recrossing the river to bring over the balance of
the relics, but I was unwilling to venture back into such water
and strong current in the face of a southwest gale, and was
equally disinclined to expose Lynn to danger and discomfoi-t.
I orde. 'd him to secure, on a high spot of land, all the relics
he could not carry in one load, and to cross with the rest. In
consequence we left two runners (one of which, of heavy conif-
erous wood, was about six feet long, eight inches high, and two
and a half inches thick), two poles, a reindeer antler, and sev-
eral worked pieces of pine wood.

"We got, at the earliest moment, into our sleeping-bag where
we passed a bad night, getting but little rest and less sleep.
Our wet clothing, the low temperature, and high wind made us
wretchedly cold and uncomfortable. To add to our discomfort,
occasionally dashes of rain wet our sleeping-bag and pi-evented
our clothing from drying out.

I decided to abandon all unnecessary food and other articles
at Euggles River, in order to carry to Conger, a Inmdred miles
distant, the relics we had found. We started about 1 a.m., July
8th, heavily laden with whalebone, etc. At times the route
along the lake-shore was so winding that we travelled inland to
shorten the distance, and, in so doing, discovered several consid-
erable lakes about a mile to the south, which drain into Lake
Hazen through small brooks. During the day several musk-cattle
and ducks were seen, and a young turnstone was caught by me.

The day's work was a very hard one, as each of us was carry-
ing between sixty and seventy pounds, and the country passed
over was quite rough in places. Eain fell occasionally during
the march, wetting our clothing suflSciently to chill us thor-
oughly when clearing weather and strong wind followed.

Several of the small valleys, in the vicinity of the discovered

408

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

lakes, were filled with luxuiiant vegetation, among ■which fre-
quent large beds of heather, with their delicate white flowers,
were particularly noticeable. This species was seen in no other
portion of the country, except in a favorable spot on Bellot
Island.

At one point, I found convincing evidence as to the formation
of the ridges of gravel which had puzzled me in my discoveries
the preceding spring: The main ice of the lake had been
forced by a high northeast wind against the shore, and masses
of broken ice, from twenty to thirty feet high, had been pushed
up on the shelving beach, forcing a ridge of gravel before it.

Nearly ten hours' travel brought us to the river which drained
the chain of lakes into Lake llazen, and there we camped on
the farther side, so worn out by previous hardships, that we had
made but a little greater distance than on a single outward
march. In crossing the stream we were wet to our hips, and
went to our bags in a wretched condition, having barely enough
fuel to warm our tea. The weather had been so bad, that in
eight days we had dry clothing but once, and our camps M'ere
uow situated so that we were obliged to ford streams and wet
our clothing anew just at the end of each march. The tem-
perature of the river was 33° (0.6° C).

From a high hill, adjacent to camp, I examined carefully the
country to the eastward of Lake llazen, which was plainly vis-
ible. I had intended, in returning, to explore in that direc-
tion, but our boots were now in such a plight that it was doubt-
ful if they would hold together until we reached Conger. The
east end of the lake was about six miles distant, and had a regu-
larly defined coast-line, which could hardly have concealed by
its contours any moderately-sized arm of the lake.

" It is therefore evident," says my field journal, " that Ben-
der must have discovered new lakes, which he mistook for the

;< ■■

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

409

extension of Lake Ilazeii. The country east of Lake Hazen
slopes gradually to a high ridge, beyond which is a break which
I now take to be the i;lellow8, but which may be an intervening
valley containing the lakes and glaciers referred to by Bender.
A small stream, which escaped our observation when going
west, now shows up at the eastern end of the lake.

" 1 am extremely puzzled to understand how Gilman glacier
and its neighbor to the east discharge their surplus water. A
well-marked line of low hills, at least two hundred feet in
height, cuts them off from Lake Hazen, but I scanned with the
telescope the entire range in vain, for anything looking like a
break. The hills were but seven to nine miles distant, and the
telescope an excellent one. Lynn usee! the glass with the same
result. It is evident the glaciers must discharge into the lake
in some way. It is possible they feed lakes lying among the
hills, and that they may be those seen by Bender."

On the evening of July 8th we left the sleeping-bag but little
refreshed by our sleep, which had been frequently broken by
our cold and comfortless condition. We took but a portion of
the food, and started on without waiting for tea, eating as we
went. Travelled in a straight line for the head of Black Kock
Vale, in doing which two new lakes wei-e discovered by us, both
of considerable size, with much ice in the centre.

After five hours' travelling we reached a broad sloping val-
ley, well covered with vegetation, through which a small brook
of gentle gradient drained into Black Kock Vale. Fuel being
found, we stopped for tea. While at this camp we endeavored,
without success, to catch a half -fledged duckling, whose mother
could not be seen, and observed a large burgomaster gull fly-
ing toward Lake Hazen.

The broad valley, as we travelled on, narrowed into a small
ravine with such precipitous sides and rocky bottom that we

410

THREE YEARS OP ARCTIC SEKVICE.

could scarcely travel through it. This caflon was a short one,
and led us into Black Itock Vale at a point just above camp
No. 2, which was reached after ten hours' wearisome travel.

Just before reaching this camp a number of places were
passed which evidently had served as sites for summer encamp-
ments for the Eskimos. We were in too exhausted u condition
to make more than a cursory examinatioii, but I noted that
there were about a dozen circles along our immediate route.

After three hours' rest, without sleep, in our bag at camp No.
17, we decided to start for the depot in Jiasil Norris Bay, as
the Vt'cather became very threateiiing. On leaving, we aban-
doned sleeping-bag, beef, hard bread, and hatchet, placing them
in a cairn. When we reached the centre of Lake lleintzel-
man, camp No. 1, we were so worn out that we were obliged
to stop and lunch on the stores there deposited. My journal
says : " Our feet are in very bad condition, as our boots are
almost in pieces. Each sharp stone bruises and hurts my
feet. Lynn's have been in a similar condition for several
days, and he has suffered much moi-e than I from this cause.
One of his boots has only a part of the iimer sole left, and
he has to choose his ground carefully. His ankles are very
badly chafed, and I am certain that every step for several days
must have "aused him pain. lie has never complained, nor
even intimr'ed that he was tired and would like to camp early.
His cheerful spirit and endurance are extraordinary."

Dui'ing this march a violent dust-storm drove us to shelter
under a high bank. The wind was from the southeast and of
a most violent character, and blew in such gusts that at times
we could make no lieadway against it. A good lunch refreshed
us, but, in order to reach Discovery Bay, we dropped every-
thing except our Eskimo relics and scientific instruments. As
we neared the junction of our valley and the Bellows, the wind^

1 \

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

411

which had hilled, icconnnenced blowing in a violent manner,
and the previously high temperature gave place to a falling one.

Wo reached the month of Black Rock Vale in eight hours'
ti'uvelling, but were disappointed to find the river so higli and
the current so swift as to bo apparently impassable. There was
cached at that point certain Eskimo relics and other articles,
from which it was evident to us that Salor and Whisler liad
been compelled to retrace their steps up the valley and pass
around Lake Ueintzelman, a detour of Hfteen miles.

The stream seemed so dangerous that I concluded to try the
Bellows, and see if that river could be forded a mile or two up
the valley. If so, we could take a straight line for Conger
across the mountains, by way of Lake Alexandra. AVc left
everything but my sextant and a lunch, and started up the Bel-
lows ; but, after an hour's travel, the river was yet so broad
and deep, with a muddy bottom, as to render its crossing dan-
gerous. We then returned to the river in Black Rock Vale.
On reaching its banks we were utterly exhausted by our long
march, as we had travelled continuously twenty one out of the
preceding twenty-four hours, and had slept but a few hours for
three days. We were also chilled by the high southeast gale
and low temperatures, and were obliged to lie down under a bit
of sheltering ground, where we were protected from the wind,
for ten minutes' rest, to recuperate our strength before we made
the attempt to cross the roaring torrent.

Stripping off our boots and socks so as to have dry foot-gear
after crossing, Lynn ventured first into the stream, and had
gone but two or three paces when he plunged in up to his
shoulders, and in a second njore comi^letely disappeared, over-
come by the strength of the current. I ran down the bank a
few yards, expecting to plunge in and rescue him, but lie scram-
bled out, fortunately on the opposite side. lie presented such

III

iMi

II;

J lit

412

THREE YEARS OP ARCTIC SERVICE.

a forlorn and utterly comical appearance that I could not kelp
laughing at him, although an instant before I had been appre-
hensive for his safety, and knew that a similar experience was
in store for me. I ventured very carefully into the water in
another place, and by extreme caution succeeded in keeping tiiy
feet until I reached a point where Lynn was able to give me a
hand and help mo out. I was soaked to my breast, and had
been obliged to hold my chronometer and field-book above my
head to insure their safety.

Wo stopped long enough to put on our socks, and started at
our best gait for the depot. The wind was blowing some thirty
miles an hour, and the temperature was about 33° (0.6° C),
just above the freezing-point. I was so chilled and benumbed
that I had to resort to running to keep life in me, but I found
myself too exhausted to continue it. I then tried running
slowly for a hundi-ed paces, alternating by walking an equal
distance. A mile of- this experience reduced me to a slow,
feeble walk. Lynn was so exhausted and worn out that I
feared ho might full by the way, as he had to stop and sit
down every hundred yards. I kept on at my best gait to reach
the depot, so as to have sleeping-bag and warm drink ready for
him on his arrival, or to bring it to him if he should fail.

I reached the depot at 11 p.m., of July 9th, after twenty-seven
hours' travelling, so exhausted that I was scarcely able to stand.
In five minutes' time, however, the alcohol-lamp was heating a
pot of water, and near it stood butter, baked beans, hard bread,
with coffee and milk, ready for the boiling water. I dragged
out the sleeping-bag, and, putting it near the lamp, went out to
watch for Lynn, who was coming along slowly. Learning that
he was yet able to walk, I stripped off my wet clothing, and
when he arrived, a quarter of an hour later, I was in the bag,
with a hot supper ready for him.

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

413

On July 10th wo started for Fort Conger, the weather being
cloudy, cold, and raw, with a northwest wind. To our dismay
Basil Nori'is Bay was entirely open, and wo were very inieasy
until two hours' travelling brought us to a point where we were
able to cross on the floe-ice directly to French Capo, wading
through many water-pools on the way. From that point to
Musk-ox Bay wo followed the shore or ico-foot as opportunity
offered. The rotten ice frequently broke, and the muddy shore,
lined with stranded ice, afforded the worst of travel. Our lower
extremities were soon wet, and a drizzling rain saturated the
rest of our clothing. On arriving at Musk-ox Bay we found it
open, and, to avoid a long detour inward, struck out on the
hurbor-floe, which we found to be in a wretchedly rotten and
unsafe condition. We were obliged to travel nearly half way
to Bellot Island before we rounded the bay, and frequently were
forced to wade through ice-cold water to the depth of our
thighs, and cross many unsafe floes. With great difficulty, and
after encountering serious perils, wo reached the northeast point
of Musk-ox Bay, where snow-squalls and bad weather rendered
our travel uncomfortable until our arrival at Conger.

The outward journey entailed one hundred and eighty-two
miles' travel, and the homeward ten miles less — an aggregate of
three hundred and fifty-two miles in nineteen marches. This
average of seventeen and a half miles to a march may seem
small to those who have vague ideas as to the rough, rugged
character of the country over which we journeyed.

Though Sergeant Lynn was a man of fine physique and iron
endurance, yet my journal shows wo wore in such an exhausted
condition on our return that it was many days before either of
us could do active work. Lynn's feet were greatly swollen and
badly bruised, and his ankles were so deeply galled that it was
a month before the sores healed. He afterward acknowledged

■ I-

414

THREE TEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

m.-

that his feet had pained liim excessively during the last three
days of our trip. My own sufferings came later, for, two days
after our return, when I expected to be quite well, my feet
swelled, and the musclos of the ankles and feet became stiff,
tense, and sore, and remained so for many days.

This July journey was a continuation of my explorations in
April, and the results were :

1. The satisfactory, if not complete, determination of the ex-
tent of ^orth Grinnell Land.

2. The outlining of the extraordinary and previously unsus-
pected physical conditions of the interior of that country.

3. The discovery of numerous valleys covered with compara-
tively luxuriant vegetation, which afford sufficient pasturage for
large numbers of musk-oxen.

The area of newly discovered land which fell under my ob-
servation was not far from five thousand square miles, of which
over one-half Avas determined with sufficient accuracy to enable
me to pass positively on its physical geography. This area
closely coincides Avith that of the entire land discoveries of the
British expedition of 1875-7C.

The question of the physical geography of the interior of
(irrinnell Land was set at rest, and, inferentially, in connection
with Nordenskj old's discoveries, that of Greenland. My dis-
coveries accord closely, though not entirely, with the \ery acute
opinions advanced by Sir Joseph Hooker. The intimate rela-
tions between the physical sciences is forcibly illustrated by
this ability of a highly trained and accomplished specialist to
state from a handful of plants the insularity or continental con-
figuration of a land and its physical condition.

Hooker, in treating of the flora of Grinnell Land, said in
1877 : " These facts seem to indicate that vegetation may be
more abundant in the interior of Greenland than is supposed.

SUMMER EXPLORATIONS.

415

and that the glacier-bound coast-ranges of that country may
protect a comparatively fertile interior. . . . We are almost
driven to conclude that Grinnell Land, as well as Greenland,
are, instead of ice-capped, merely ice-girt islands."

Nordenskjold also believed that comparatively fertile valleys
might be found in the interior of Greenland, and sought for
them nearly seven hundred miles south of the point where
I discovered them in Grinnell Land.

His failure to find such resulted from the unexpected oro-
graphical features of the country, the surface resembling an in-
verted saucer, a nearly level top with a very gradual slope to
the sides. The whole ice-cap question turns on this point, which
explains the reason the borders of Grinnell Land and its fertile
belt are free from inland ice: this fertile belt, one hundi-ed
and fifty miles long and forty wide, extends from Robeson and
Kennedy Channels to Greely Fiord and the western Polar
Ocean. Its iceless condition depends entirely on its physical con-
figurations. The abrupt, broken charn tor of the country makes
it impossible for the winter's scanty snow to cover it. Long,
narrow, and numerous valleys not only offer the greatest amount
of bare soil at favorable angles to the heating rays of the con-
stant summer sun, but also serve as natural beds, with steep
gradients, for the torrents from melting snows. The summer
rivers drain rapidly the surplus water, and long before autumn
and sharply fi-ecising weather come, the land is generally free
from snow, and the largo rivers have dwindled to brooks. The
deep intersecting fiords not only receive the discharging rivers,
but, from their frozen surfaces, furnish large quantities of
saline efilorescence, which mixing with the land-snow facilitates
greatly its disappearance in the coming spring.

Where such conditions, as above enumerated, do not prevail in
Grinnell Land, ice-caps are found similar to the inland ice of

! -!

416

THKEE YEAES OF AECTIO SERVICE.

Greenland, traversed by Nordenskiold. The Garfield Eange
cutting off the snows of the United States Mountains from
draining into Lake Hazen, an ice-cap exists there probably not
far from three thousand miles in area. There is but little
doubt the Challenger Mountains bound this ice-cap to the north-
west, and that its northern face drains through Clements Mark-
ham Inlet and the many ravines which Aldrich speaks of as
running far inland from the bays on the shores of the Polar Sea.

Similarly the mer de glace Agassiz covers the country to the
westward of the Victoria and Albert Range, and its northern
limit coincides with the commencement of a country where
favoring valleys and fiords drain its melting ice. I have no
doubt this southern glacial ice-cap covers many thousand square
miles, and that its offshoots, besides the glaciers of Rawlings,
Dobbin, AUman, and Franklin Pierce Bays, are to be found at
the head of every considerable brook, or its connecting valley,
in Kennedy Channel, Kane Sea, and Hayes Sound.

Similar physical conditions must gov'rn the distribution of the
inland ice in Greenland, and I doubt not that from Thank God
Harbor one can travel eastward to St. George Fiord, and prob-
ably thence, through inlets and connecting valleys, over the coast
of Greenland to the east coast. Such a trip I had planned, but
was obliged to abandon it for want of dogs. The absence of any
coast-glaciers north of Petermann Fiord, the extreme inland
extension of Victoria, Nares, Sherard Osborn, and other in-
lets, as well as the comparative freedom of the bordering coasts
from snow are all significant facts.

The {.ctual determination of the northern edge of the inland
ice of Greenland would have been a valuable contribution to
Arctic geography, which would have fittingly supplemented the
discovery of such extraordinary physical conditions as resulted
from our summer explorations in Gri: lell Land.

CHAPTEIl XXIX.

LAUNCH TRIPS, ETC.

T~\URrNG my absence in the interior affairs had passed
"^^^ quietly at the home station. The liunters had assidu-
ously kept the field, but the scarcity of large game, and the
shyness of the birds, made it profitable only as exercise and
employment. Unfortunately the hot days of June spoiled a
large quantity of meat, which became fly-blown, although care-
fully watched. A future party, by all means, should excavate
a cellar for game, whenever the amount on hand is considerable.

On July 12th winter again threatened, for thin ice formed in
places over the harbor in early morning and late evening.
Although the sun wa? yet above the horizon at midnight, the
temperature fell to 29" (—1.7° C), a very low reading so near
midsummer. The weather moderated, and a genuine rain came
three days later.

On July 6th Schneider shot a Sabine gull, a rare bird, the
first of the species at Conger, and probably the most northern
specimen ever obtained. It was in company with long-tailed
skuas, while the examples seen by Iicssels were with the tern.

Kear the end of the month a hunting party, under Sergeant

Brainard, visited Cape Eeechy. They killed eight musk-oxen,

twenty-four geese, and two goslings. The geese were moulting

in Beechy Lake, and the hunters found it necessary to strip and

Bwim to the central ice to secure their game.

Whisler and Ileury, at the same time, were sent across country
27

418

THREE YEARS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

' 1

If I

I* ;

to bring from Black Rock Vale the Eskimo relics cached by me.
Passing to the westward of Lake Alexandra, they discovered,
some distance beyond, a lake one-half, and a second one-third,
the size of Lake Alexandra, into which they drained, thus
forming a chain. In the two lakes nearest the sea, fish were
seen, the largest about four inches long. A fourth lake exists
near the Bellows, and drains into that valley. They shot dur-
ing their absence two musk-oxen and a hare. As no oflBcer
cared to make the trip. Sergeant Brainard was sent with the
jolly boat to Basil Norris Bay for this meat. Unfortunately
one animal had spoiled, but the other, with two shot by Brain-
ard's party, was brought in.

These cattle, with one killed near the station by Jens, aver-
aged three hundred and seventy-seven pounds dressed, a con-
trast to sixteen weighed in June, which averaged but little over
two hundred pounds.

On July 20th Dr. Pavy's contract as surgeon of the expedi-
tion was renewed, the conditions being slightly changed in his
interest, and at his ret[uest. The oath was formally adminis-
tered, and the contract witnessed by Lieutenant Lockwood.

The ice had commenced to break up on July Oth, on which day
the harbor partly cleared, and later the water increased rapidly
in Hall Basin. Private Ellis, on July 22d, positively claimed
that he saw a walrus off Distant Cape, which indicated much
open water southward, and augured well for the coming of the
visiting steamer. The storm of July 28tli, during which the
wind reached forty-eight miles an hour from the southeast,
broke up nmch of the ice in the straits, and left open water
south of a line drawn from Cape Murchisou to Petermann Fiord.

Discovery Harbor was unusually clear of ice the last half of
July, and boating was much indulged in. Schneider saw, July
29th, near the station, a small fish, resembling a salmon, which

Sll

^"-ss^ssaci-

LAUNCH TRIPS, ETC. 419

may have come down from Lake Alexandra. A few days later
I saw two minnoM's, about an inch long, in the harbor.

The conditions in Hall's basin remaining ;:avorable, I decided
to run the launch southward around Cape iieber, to determine
the state of the ice in Kennedy Channel, and with the hope of
seeing to the southward the visiting steamer, which all expected
daily. We left Conger at 10 a.m., and two hours and a half
later landed Lieutenant Kislingbury, Sergeants JJrainard, and
Israel, who were to explore the vicinity of Cape Baird during
our absence.

As the tide had commenced setting some light ice southward,
I did not care to venture too far, and so landed, about 3 p.m.,
just north of Cape Craycrof t. Here I cached a barrel of bread
and a hundred pounds of meat, which I had brought out to sup-
plement the small stores at Cape Baird, in case of delay.

From an elevation of about two hundred feet Kennedy Chan-
nel was carefully examined with a glass. Cape Constitution
and the eastern half of Franklin Island could be plainly seen,
but no ice, except a rare and occasional floeberg. It was evident
that Kennedy Channel was freer from ice than in Aufust 1881
Doubts were expressed as to whether a ship had been sent, for
it seemed certain that she would have run up during the south-
westerly gales. During an hour's stay the men occupied their
spare time in obtaining fossils, the i)resenco of which had been
detected by Sergeant Gardiner. This place was again visited,
and the report of Sergeant Gardiner on fossils forms .n ap-
pendix. Sergeant Brainard also found later many fossils and a
petrified forest neai- Cape Baird.

On our return, the eastern entrance of Discovery Harbor was
found to be packed with ice, and, i-unning in to the westward of
Bellot Island, wo reached shore near Proteus Point with great
trouble.

420

THREE TEARS OB' ARCTIC SERVICE.

The party at Cape Baird had examined the country thor-
oughly. The only land-game was a dirty yellowish-white fox,
which had also been seen from the launch. Sergeant Brainard,
who seemed intuitively to locate such places, discovered the
sites of eighteen Eskimo summer tents, and gathered near them
a large number of relics. The circles varied from five to fifteen
feet in diameter. There were two upstanders, runners, bone

Eskimo Stone Lamp, Found near Cape Baird, 8i" 30' N,
l/'Vo«i ap/wtoi/nujii.i

shoes, cross-bars, etc., making a complete sledge ; a very large
stone (steatite probably) lamp, fifteen inches across, was broken
in five pieces, and had been still used fastened together by seal
thongs. There was also a bone spear-head, and other relics of
like material, the use of which was unknown to onr Danish
Eskimo.

Our trip to Cape Craycrof t was a disappointing one, in that it

LAUNCH TRIPS, ETC. 421

gave no tidings of the relief steamer. The causes which delayed
her are plain from the report of Mr. Beebe, which shows too
conclusively a misapprehension of the situation. From Beebe's
statements it appears that the Neptune remained about nine
days in Pandora Harbor, the time being partly spent in hunt-
ing. « During our stay there of a week," he says, " riding out
a succession of southwesterly gales, much trouble was experi-
enced, our anchor being lost, etc. ... On August 7th
the water-casks were filled, and we resumed our way north-
ward."

It is well known that strong southwesterly winds insure the
most favorable conditions (indeed, during a bad ice-year the only
conditions) under which Smith Sound and Kane Sea can be navi-
gated. Since the Neptune spent her time in a retired harbor,
losing her anchors under a wind which undoubtedly cleared
from ice the whole west side of Kane Sea, we can now easily
understand why she failed to reach Conger in 1882.

I had still some hopes of the ship, but, as Archer Fiord
was open, I felt obliged to send the launch Lady Greely,
imder Lieutenant Loekwood, to examine the head of the fiord,
with a view to future exploration in that direction. He left on
August 13th, with orders to be absent not exceeding three days.
He followed the southern shore outward, in order to obtain
game. " The north shore," he says, " is at the foot of a con-
tinuous line of steep cliffs, while the southern is a glassy slope
rising gradually to the hills some miles back. Li places, how-
ever, these hills approach the shore, and here and there the
mountain streams have formed great gaps and declivities. . . .
Ella Bay is walled in on both sides by steep and high cliffs,
which, extending inland, form a valley."

Unfortunately, at the head of Ella Bay the launch was run
upon a large shoal at high tide, and was left high and dry.

422

TIIKEE YEAKS OF ATICTIO SERVICE.

This gave Lieutenant Lockwood great uneasiness, and he was
unable to absent himself from the launch more than two or
three hours. As soon as the launch could bo got off he was
obliged to return, which was done without farther mishap. Dur-
ing the trip a large amount of game was obtained, comprising
twelve musk-oxen, weighing twenty-four hundred pounds ;
twenty-four geese, three hares, twenty ptarmigans, and forty-five
smaller birds. In the waters at the head of Ella Bay there were
many large yellow jelly-fish, one of which, over six inches in di-
ameter, was brought to the station.

A large bone, apparently of a Greenland whale, was discovered
at the head, and a very large piece of driftwood at the south
shore, of the bay. The bone was three and a half feet in length,
a foot in diameter, was partly petrified and weighed eighty-five
pounds. A email glacier was noticed in Beatrix Bay, and two
others on the south side of Archer Fiord. Traces of summer
encampments of Eskimo were observed here and there on the
shores of Ella Bay. A visit to Hillock Depot proved that the
provisions cached in bags by Lieutenant Archer, R.N., had been
eaten by foxes or wolves.

About thirty more head of musk-oxen were seen on the south
side of the fiord, but they were not disturbed, on account of the
quantity of meat already on board and the uncertainty of our
coal lasting for the return journey.

Sergeant Brainard, who had charge of the fresh meat, records
that up to this date fifty-two musk-oxen had been obtained in
1882, averaging two hundred and forty -three pounds each of
dressed meat.

Private Long, on August 12th, distinguished himself as a
hunter. My journal of the following day says :

" Long returned at 6 p.m., having been gone twenty-two
hours hunting. His prolonged absence caused much alarm, as

LAUNCH TRIPS, ETC. 423

he was alone. Several parties had been sent out to search for
him, when he was met returning, lie had fallen in with a
herd of musk-oxen in the valley, about two miles above the
head of St. Patrick Bay. He had sixteen rounds of ammuni-
tion at starting, and, shortly after, fired two at an owl. With
the remaining annnuuition he killed eight musk-oxen, and
wounded two others ; four escaped. Ho had delayed to skin
the eight before returning to the station, in order that the meat
should not taint. lie saw three large falcons {Falco candicans\
the first that have been observed by us."

Long's record as a hunter had always been a fine one, but
this success first particularly called my attention to his extraor-
dinary qualities in that direction. He never afterward, even
under most critical circumstances, failed to show the same pa-
tience, coolness, and skill as on this occasion.

My journal says :

" August Ittth. — Lieutenant Kislingbury, having volunteered
for the work, left, with the Valorous, to obtain the meat at the
head of St. Patrick Bay, intending to pass around Distant Cape
to Cape Murchison by boat, but he was obliged to return, ow-
ing to the ice crowded against the shore between Dutch Island
and Distant Cape. He left again at noon, with four men, to put
the meat on tripods off the ground, where it will be safe xmtil it
can be brought in by sledge."

" August 15th. — Lieutenant Kislingbury and party came back
this afternoon, having remained over night in St. Patrick Valley.
The meat is securely cached — hung on poles in stone huts which
they constructed. The three cattle lately killed by Brainard
and Cross were visited, and are in good condition. Falcons
were seen, but not near enough for a shot to be obtained."

On August 19th Lieutenant Lockwood was ordered, with the
launch, to Ida Bay, the southwestern point of Chandler Fiord,

424

TIIUEK YKAUS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

leaving on roiito Dr. Puvy and Sergeant Elison at Capo Baird,
whence they wore to visit Carl llittor Bay on foot, in the liopo
that Bonio signs of a ship miglit bo noted. Tho trip was made
without serious difficulty, until densely packed ico was fallen in
with in Chandler Fiord some miles to tho westward of Miller
Island. The launch reached with difficulty a point within a
mile of the northern extension of the fiord.

Chandler Fiord looking Westward, Ida Bay to Extreme Left.
[From a photograph. ]

Sergeant Israel, our astronomer, landed at several places, and •
made sufficiently extended astronomical and trigonometrical ob-
servations to accurately determine tho configuration of the
southern part of the fiord. A small, rocky islet was discovered
just to the west of Miller Island, which in April had seemed to
me to bo a prolongation of the latter island. Several photo-
graphs were taken, and two nmsk-oxen were obtained.

In a ravine on the southern side of Chandler Fiord wore

LAUNOJI TUIPH, ETC.

430

found many stono caches, ovidently tlio work of Eskimo, and a
number of bone implements, wliich proved the occasional visits
of these folk in former ages.

Other extracts from my journal show the important incidents
of the autumn of 18.S2.

"August 22d.— With Sergeant Brainard I visited the coal-
mine in Watercourse liaviue, and obtained a large number of
iine fossils. Eeturning by the way of Distant Cape, we saw a
musk-ox, whicli was killed by JJrainard. The straits are solid
above Cape Murchison, and from that point, as far below Cape
Lieber as can bo seen, everything is open and clear. I sent Jens
and Connell to Lake Alexandi-a to /isit the nets. They brought
back a Hue salmon, which weighed four and tiiree-fourths
pounds and was eighteen inches long. A net had been set, and
also thirty hooks, but this was the only Hsh obtained so far."

There were many lish in Lake Alexandra, but the meshes of the
net were unfortunately too large to catch them. On the 17th
Dr. Pavy saw a fish resembling the sculpin near the tide-gauge
— the first seen of that variety. A few days later lish of the
same character, which were fi-om two to six inches in length,
were observed near the liead of St. Patrick Jiay. These latter
were seen by Sergeant Brahiard, who was sent,*with five men,
to bring to the station the whale-boat cached the preceding
year at Depot " B " near Cape Beechy.

" August 25th. — Artificial light will soon be needed. I have
quite given up the ship ; as, indeed, have most of the men. 1
hope against hope, and defer going on an allowance of our re-
maining stock of vegetables until September 1st. We have
enough of them, but, in the matter of vegetables, we must live
much more simply than the past year. The straits were un-
usually free from ice to-day, as was Archei- Fiord. I sent
Lieutenant Lockwood, at 5 p.m., with la|incli Lady Greely, to

42«{

TIIUKK YKAKS OF AUOTIC SEUVICE.

Capo Baird to bring back Dr. Pavy. llo atfds to tho depot a
barrel of hard broad, a box of extract of beef, and another of
roast beef, and a small quantity of coal. 1 regret exceedingly
that Sergeant IJrainard is not back, as then 1 could have sent
the Valorous to Capo I'aird and had her hauled up. As it is,
with tho whale-boat at Cai)o I>eecliy, I feel iiisecin-o in sending
our only large boat beyond our reach. Wo should have had a
second whale-boat, but money was lacking in ISSI."

" Augiist i37th. — Mrainard arrived at midnight with the
whale-boat. Considerable troul lo had been experienced both
from old and new ice. They reached Depot ' J> ' in six and
one fourth hours, but were seventeen in returning.

" Lieutenant Lockwood back this morning with Dr. Pavy's
party, which reached Cajio Daird yesterday morning. Dr. Pavy
found that tho valley near l»aircl, down which J'avy river flows,
extends to a divide which is only five miles from Capo Dofosse, to
which capo a second valley, broad and largo, descends. Four
lakes are formed by the eidargement of tho river between Capo
l>aird and the divide. Thoy reached Carl Hitter IJay via tho
coast, and foinid the cache there exactly as it was loft over a
year ago. No ico was seen in Kennedy Channel, nor as far
south as thoy could see from an elevation of seven hundred
foot at Capo Defosse. At Carl Hitter ]>ay tho weather was
foggy and disagreeable. They were fifty hours in going and re-
turning from Baird. Dr. Pavy found some Eskimo relics at
Capo JJaird. Two nuisk-cattle, a cow and calf, were killed by
Elison during the journey."

Tho first serious broach of discipline occurred on August 2Sth,
in tlie case of my engineer, a skilled machinist, whose services
were indispeusable, and of whom I had expected better things.
My journal says : " The engineer is drunk to-day. lie fell from
the launch into tho water, where he would have drowned if he

LAUNCH TRIPS, ETC.

427

liad not boon rescued by JJrainard. lie refused to obey any orders
of the non-commissioned officers until I took him in hand my-
self. I learned from Lieutenant Lockwood that ho had stolen a
portion of the alcohol which was sent with the launch for fuel
on the late trip up Archer Fiord, and was drunk at that time.
Jle evidently avails himself of every opportunity to i)urloin and
conceal a portion of the fuel alcohol sent out with parties."

Lieutenant J^ockwood was ordered, on the 21)th, to the head of
Archer Fiord for exploration. At 7 a.m., however, the tem-
perature fell to 31.0° (—0.1° C), to remain permanently below
the freezing j)oint, as it transpired, being one day earlier tlum
in 1881 ; and, the weather being tlireutening, Lieutenant Lock-
wood's orders were countermanded.

On August iUst my journal says: "The harbor is completely
filled with pack-ice, which opened a little this evening. The
young ice is forming slowly, but it will readily cement the older
floes, jannned together as they now are. I assigned Frederick
to duty as engineer to run the launch. I sent it and the Valor-
ous to-day to Dutch Island, under Lieutenant Lockwood, with
instructions to have them placed in safety, so thai they can be
hauled up for winter quarters.

" Lieutenant Lockwood returned at 1 a.m. Avith the party, re-
porting the launch left in safe condition. I visited Dutch Island
immediately after breakfast, to see exactly how the launch was
situated, and my action proved very fortunate. I found she
had grounded, and, having fallen seaward, her outer taffrail was
about two inches under water, caused by the tide which had just
commenced flowing. I ran to the station as rapidly as possible,
and, obtaining a party with ropes, succeeded in righting the
launch and clearing her of water, though with much difficulty.
I had her moored at a safe distance from shore, and Iiave
ordered her to be visited at every iow tide. The harbor is

428

THREE YEAKS OF ARCTIC SERVICE.

jammed with pack-ice, but there ia as yet no young ice. A
year ago the, young ice was four and three-eighths inches thicfe,
the liarbor freezing over as far as Dutch Island."

The laying up of the launch had been delayed until the last
moment, as that action was a plain declaration that the visiting
steamer was no longer expected, and that a second winter must
be met without the hoped-for arrival of farther supplies, fresh
recruits, and, most of all, news from the outside M'orld. It was
harder to face this misfortune than we had anticipated.

In hauling up the launch at Dutch Island, I realized the dan-
ger of eo doing, for no absolutely secure berth could be found for
her. It was a choice of evils, however, as I looked forward to
the contingency of a possible retreat in 1883. As it happened,
the launch would have been iinavailable the following year, if I
had secured her on the ice-foot near the station as in 1881. In
1883 Discovery Harbor never cleared of ice, a condition which
is not unusual, as is evidenced by the unbroken floe through
.hich the Proteus fo.ced her way on our arrival in 1881.

END OF VOLUME I.

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