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Les diaurammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. irrata to pelure, n A D 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 The EDITH and LORNE PIERCE COLLECTION of CANADI ANA §lueen's University at Kingston m -'spRj ($mmB Ittto^raitg ffitbrarg KINGSTON, ONTARIO r-^1 ■< 4 - .", ..Wi , .T.i,—'- ■*■"- .'i.=„l\ i .i..JV; THE CATARACT HOUSE, NIAGARA FALLS, N. Y. Established 1814. j , I . I ii jj i i ., I ] III V I 1 ' I.; "iiy ytj I II f^-KM •111 i„ A\ -f * t -"^ • .iia*- •.<"'il»» '?<k* ' Ml iHjnrrrrii n i iitKiiir BEST AND BEST KNOWN HOTEL AT NIAGARA. STRICTLY FIRST CLASS. Adjoining State Ressrvation, and dibectlt opposite Goat Island. Only first-class Hotel on the American side conducted exclusively on the American Flan. J. E. DEVLflEUX, Manager. AUENOE UOOSET ^-— . 11 ^Select Family M?I. 17, 19, 21, and 2;t McQiU College Avenue. MONTREAL. Urmirpassed for its central position, being equally convenient for business or pleasure. E. S. Reynolds, Proprietor. Telephone No. 4889. ROOMS FROM $1.50 TO $2.00 PER DAY. Take a Hack and drive direct to the Hotel ; same price as by 'bus. IS THE LATEST ADDITION TO THE NEWS SERIES FAMILY: The Saratoga News, The Richfield News, The Thousand Island News, The Adirondack News, The St. Augustine News, , HANDSOMELY PRINTED, DAINTILY ILLUSTRATED, WHICH HAVE BEEN CALLED Tlie "COORT JODRKALS" of American Heailli and Pleasnre Resorts. $1.00 EACH. FOR THE SFASON. Biohfield Springs, N. Y., Saratoga Springs, N. Y., Alexandria Bay, N. Y Saranao Lake, N. Y., St. Augustine, Florida. * * ^^^^^ Published by FRANK Q, BARRY. THE HOTEL KALTENBACH, NIAGARA FALLS, N. Y. Opposite the Rapids, near and above Cataract Hotel. A select, first-class house in every respect. - , - American Plan. $3.00 per Day. a. KALTENBACH, Proprietor. The Heart o! the Berkshire flllls. ^ THE MAPLE WOOD, PITTSFIELD, MASS. 'Hu largest Hotel in the Berkshire HUls, and the only one surrounded by beautiful grounds. Within easy driving distance of all other resorts, as it is the center of this famous region. Open from June ist to November ist. ARTHUR W. PLUMB, Propbietob. TO ADVERTISERS. The attontion of the proprietors of Hotels and Siiininer Resorts, Railroad and Steamship ..:oinpanies, and all who desire to reach the very best class of Travelers and Tourists, is called to the following publications of I). AIMM.HTON & CO. as admirably adapted for that purpose. ' Full particulars will be niade known by addressing; HHNRY W. QUIN, Nkw York. APPLHTONS' GKNHRAL C.UIDH-BOOKS TO THE UNITHI) STATHS AND CANADA. Illustrated. Two l^olunu's. NEW HNCLANl) AND Minni.E STATES, WESTERN AND SOUTHERN STATES, ^nd complfte in One Volume. APPLETONS' HAND-BOOK OF SUMMER RESORTS. One rolunw. f\jprr Cover. A clear, compact, and readable account of the great Watcring-Places and leading Resorts of th.e Summer Tourist. GUIDE TO CANADA. Giving full descriptions of Fishing and Shooting Grounds, Resorts, etc. ^ new book, tcilb Maps and Itliishations. APPLETONS" GUIDE-BOOK TO ALASKA AND THE NORTHWEST COAST. Including tlie shores of Washington, British Columbia, Southeastern Alaska, the Aleutian Islands, the Seal Islands, Bering Sea, and the Arctic Ocean. By Miss ELIZA RUHAMAH SCIDMORE. IVitb Maps and Illustrations. A most interesting and instructive booh. |THE CLIFTON HOUSE, NIAGARA FALLS. Open from May to November of each Year. I contort Ihe cuisine service and attention un- l>urpassed. Locution directly facing the Falls. POSITIVELY the only hotel commanding .ny View whatever of the FALLS OF NIAGARA. Check baggage to Niagara Falls, N. Y. Leave cars ||t same place. lor apartments and information, address Q- M. COLBURN, Niagara Falls, N. Y. HANDBOOK OF BIRDS OF EASTERN NORTH AMERICA. ^'^^'.w^S*? ^.^P^^Pecies; Descriptions of their Plumages, Nests etc • their Distribution and Migratic is. By Frank M ChapmIm' Assistant Curator of Mammalogy and Ornirhology, America^ Museum of Natural History. With nearly 200 1 lustSns ^HIS book treats of all the birds, some five hundred and forty in number, which have been found east of the Mississippi River, and from the Arctic Ocean To he , Gulf of Mexico. The author's position has not only given him excepUonal but has brought h,m m direct contact with beginners in the study of birds whose wanU ivoided, and by the use of illustrations, concise descriptions, analytical keys dates of teferV 'h r"'^ "" ''^^"'"^•^"' ''^""*^' -^- and characteristL'hlbt the jproblem of identification, eitheHrnhe^leld^r study, is reduced to its simplest terms! For saie by all bookulUrs ; oVZii^^T::;:^^^^ on reZipt of price by the publUkers, D. APPLETON & CO., 72 Fifth Avenue, New York. *THE*QUEEN'S* - HOTEL. Toronto, Canada. I McQAW & WINNETT, Proprietors. * ONE of the largest and most comfortable hotels in the Dominion of Canada, and, being adjacent to the Lake, commands a splendid view of Toronto Bay and Lake Ontario. It is well known as one of the coolest houses in summer in Canada, and is elegantly furnished throughout. Rooms en, suite, with bath-rooms attached, on every floor. THI7 OTIFPN'^ ^as been liberally patronized by royalty and nobility! lll£i \alUijIjll O durmg their visits to Toronto, and among those who have honored it with their patronage are: His Imperial Highness the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia ; their Royal Highnesses, Prince Leopold, I'rince George ; Princess Louise, and the Duke and Duchess of Connaught ; the Marquis of Lome ; the Earl and Countess of Dufferin ; the Marquis and Marchioness of Lansdowne ; Lord and Lady Stanley, of Preston ; Earl and Countess of Aberdeen. THE QUEEN'S is furnished with all tlie latest modern improvements. Pas- senger elevator, electric bells, etc. The Queen's Royal Hotel, NIAGARA, ON THE LAKE, ONTARIO. This hotel and summer resort is located in a beautiful grove opposite Fort Niagara, at the head of Lake Ontario and the mouth of the Niagara River. It is capable of accommodating three hundred and fifty guests. All modern improvements. The drives along the banks of the lake and river are beautiful and refreshing. Application for rooms may be made to the proprietors of the " Queen's Hotel," Toronto, Ontario, up to June 1st ; after that date, to the "Queen's Royal," Niagara, on the lake, Ontario. McGAW & WINNETT, Proprietors. THK CANADIAJN^ GUIDE-BOOK COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME A GUIDE TO (Kaotern (Canaba anb Newfonnbland INCLUDING FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF ROUTES, CITIES. POINTS OF INTEREST. SUMMER RESORTS, INFORMATION FOR SPORTSMEN, ETC. By CHARLES G. D. ROBERTS LATE PROFESSOR OF ENGLISH UTERATURE IN KINO'S COLLEQK, WINDSOR, N. S. AND toestern (t^XiCita to bancatitjcr's lelanb INCLUDING THE CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND NATIONAL PARK WITH MAPS AND MANY ILLUSTRATIONS NEW YORK D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 1895 t '< 'i p f. UP FC5g.C5 l'3S5 r f r « « , C r.. I OoPTRiOHT, 1891, 1892, 1894, 1895, By d. appleton and C0MF\NY. '' t •« « . « * • if/, t it t » I r • fc % COJN TENTS. r Iktboduction I'AOE 1 EASTERN CANADA. PKOVINCK OF ONTARIO. Thk Niagara Kiveh _ Niagara Fallu •-....,.,'' ^ From Niaoaha to Toronto W The Water Koiite ••......* '10 The Grand Trunk Koute .u Hamilton * " JJ Toronto . \ « The MuHkoka DiHtrlct . . . .' . ... 30 From Toronto eastward . . ^ Kingston !!!!"'*' 4? The Tho.iBand iBlands .... . . .' . ' 44 The St. Lawrence Rapids . '47 „ Ottawa .".■.■■'.''■ 49 1 ROM Ottawa to Montreal M PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. Province op Quebec ... .r. Montreal ••..!.!..""" «i From Montreal to St. John •..'!... 73 From Montreal to Quebec ...!!]' -4 By the St. Lawrence River . . . . '. '"a By Rail on the South Shore . . . '. L By Rail on the North . . „, Quebec ■.".'!.*'■ 82 From Quebec to Lake St. John . . o« Lake St. John *'.*.'*" JOO Down the St. Lawrence and up the Sagubnay ! 108 The Saguenay River 107 From Chicoutimi to the Mouth . ', j^j, Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity •..."'' no From Quebec to the Maritime Provinces : By Rail . '' • 110 By Steamship round Gaspe . , ' ,.* The Ga8p6 Peninsula . " Ill 190215 'fr:W~T?»*W?'^ IV CONTENTS. I ! t- PROVINCE OF liEW BRUNSWICK. PAQB The pRovracB of New Brunswick 122 llie Restigouche 128 Fhom the Rsstiquuche to Moncton . . . . . . . .127 The Mfraiaichi 180 Itloncton 132 Trips from Moncton 132 FaoM Moncton to St. John 184 St. John 185 Up the River St. John " 142 Fredericton , 148 From Fefdericton to Woodstock 152 The Upper St. John 153 The Grand Falls of the St. John .156 Above the Grand Falls 158 R0UT3R FOR THE SPORTSMAN 160 Up the Tobique by Canoe 166 Bv Rail from Woodstock 181 Campobello and Grand Manan .184 The Return to St. John 187 From Moncton to Amherst 188 FRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. Prince Edward Island 188 Cbarlottetown 196 Frou Cbarlottetown eastward . . . . . .. . .198 NOVA SCOTIA. Nova Scotia 201 To PiCTou AND Antioonish 204 Cape Breton 208 Through the Bras d'03 Waters to Sydney 200 Badde'k 210 Sydney 212 LOUISBOCRO 213 Frok Nkw Glasoow to Trcjro and HALir-Ax . . . . . .216 Truro p<<j Halifax 219 From Halifax to Bridgewater 240 From Bridoewater to Yarmouth 243 Yaimoiith 246 From Halifax eastward 247 FROTd Halifax to Yarmouth by Rail 248 Windsor .... "MQ From Windsok to Parrseoro and St. John ...... 251 From Windsor to Grand Pr^ 258 CONTENTS. V PAGE Fbom Wolfville to Annapolis 257 From Annapolis to Yarmouth ' . . 260 NEWFOUNDLAND. The Island of Newfoundland ggg St. John's 22g Trips from St. John's ... gg<} Along the Coast _ . 234 Conception Bay and the South Coast 335 The French Shore 000 WESTERN CANADA. Montreal to Ottawa : a. By the Canadian Pacific Ry ggg b. By the Canadian Atlantic Ry 209 Ottawa cjgg Ottawa to Sudbury *. . .270 Sudbury to Sault Ste. Marie . . . , 272 Sudbury to Winnipeg 272 North Shore of Lake Superior 278 Manitoba gyg Winnipeg 277 Winnipeg to Regina 279 assiniboia 281 Reojna to Prince Albert 288 Saskatchewan 284 Regina to Calgary 285 Alberta 287 Calgary to Donald 29q The Rocky Mountain Park of Canada 291 British Columbia . * 296 Donald to Vancouver . , ,. . . 299 Vancouver 3O7 Vancouver to Victoria 20^ Victoria g09 APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN. General Information 3II Lessees of Fishing Rights 812 Close Seasons for Fishing and Hunting 815 :*jM|iWWPW>''ii 1 1 I I ' II Ji ^ n w i »i . !i SALMON -FLIES. I LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. Niagara Palls from Prospect Park .... '^^"'^ ^***J The American Palls Luna Falls and the Rock of Ages .... In the Thopsand Isles Parliament Buildings, Ottawa ... Timber aitloat at the Saw-mills, Ottawa Long Sault Rapids Running Lachine Rapids Fort Chamblt, on the Richelieu River .... Citadel at Quebec .... Cape Gasp6 ..... GAspf Residents returning from Church PBBcfi Rock The Beach at Paspebiac, and View of the Bay . Valley of the Metapedia . A Moose Family .... Curing Fisk at Perc^ .... Caribou Migration .... Cape Porcupine, and Cape St. George ... The Steamer Stanley, Prince Edward Island The Oldest House in Prince Edward Island . [ Old Fireplace at Entry Island The Mail-boat at Prince Edward Island On the Road to Baddeck LouisBouRG Memorial ... St. John's, Newfoundland, before the Fire of 1892 The Monthly Mail Train from Hall's Bay to Codroy Government Houses and Town Pumps at St. Pierre . Cape Blomidon .... Cape Split . . The Sault Ste. Marie Ship Canal (View of the Locks, looking toward Lake Superior) . 8 . 13 . 44 . 51 . 52 . 66 . 58 . 76 . 87 . 114 . 117 . 120 123 126 146 160 168 189 192 194 198 202 210 216 230 233 237 253 255 272 ■■■:' .^: -»v ^^ ^i'S^"'^"' '"' 'v.v^r^^^t^'?^^^ K, ■•/■■■^f?^^f#l-^^ d vm LIST OF ILWJ8TRATION8. FAvlING PAGE Sow EiVKB Valley from Upper Hot SpBiyo' 290 The Great Glacier 801 ^ Indians near New Westminster 306 MAPS. Plan of Montreal 64 The GASpfi Peninsula ... 115 Belle Isle Strait 284 Canadian Salmon Rivers and GAspfi Basin 266 Nbpigon River ...... 274 Rocky Mountain Park of Canada . 291 General Map, Province of Ontario . . . .In Pocket. " " Province of Quebec " " " Maritime Provinces " " " Northwestern Canada ..*... " SALMON. 801 806 . 64 . 115 . 284 . 266 . 274 . 291 Tn Pocket. tt t( INTRODUCTION. The dear home of freemen brave and true, And loving honor more than ease or gold.' AoNEs Maule Machar. Strktchinc. from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from Lake Erie to States aTdAr. TT^ " ""''' '^^"""^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^an the United States and Alaska, hes the great dominion to which the name of Canada now applies, a country whose peopk are engrossed iu the work of na lon-makmg Perhaps nowhere else in the world, at this present day are such m.ghty forces stirring to such gignntic and uncalcuiated issues' ^Wthm a decade there has come about such a change in the spirit of th. Canadian people that outside observers, judging from data of toa IT? 'T" '"'' ^f *^''"''''*'' pathetically astray in their conclu- sions ; for the name of Canada, almost in a day, has become a name to conjur. with, from corner to corner of this confederation which we have mo ded out of the once scattered and half-antagonistic provinces of British North America. To the tourist whose interest centers chiefly m men in mstit '.'ons, in ethnological and political problems, this coun- try with a futur nd not without a significant past offers the strongest possible attractions. To those who look for magnificence or charm of landscape, for an invigorating climate, for the wholesome relish of rod and gun and paddle, this region of the North makes no less active ap- peal. It. deficiencies, of course, are those of all new countries-its fields have not been sown thick with blood and tears, its cities lack the magic of inexhaustible memories, the treasures of a long-established cnvihzation. One city, Quebec, seems old to us, and has gathered about tsdademof ramparts much of "the light that never was o„ sea or land ; but, compared with Old World cities, it is a growth of yesterday The section of Canada which is here designated as Eastern Canada IS in the mam coextensive with old Canada and Acadia. The rich and populous section of Ontario . in.h lies between- Lakes Erie and Huron is z':t:fi^fr2r''''' " '"'^"'"" ^'^^^ '^^ ^^^*^^-" ^«-- -.rontv. torn-s the most convemeut center from which to start west or W UH I 1 1 I IM !« y |l* "J" ! I f " I ¥ 'lll' ff^ ' m, ' .m JiJJ '' ^'';*jj' ' VlV.J ''' i'''sU'4 ' .!|.'.*i?>!{i!!i; '^y ^V*^ "T.^^^^3^^ /" 11 If 2 INTRODUCTION. east The term Eastern Canada includes a large section of Ontario, with the provinces of Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Inland. Newfoundland, and that part of Labrador belonging to Newfoundland, though not attached to Canada, are touched upon m the following pages, for the convenience of tourists who may wish to visit them. The territory to be described may most conveniently be covered in a round trip, offering abundant choice of routes, and oppor- tunity for attractive side-trips from the most important towns along the way It is a small territory compared with the rest of the Do- minion, but it contains the bulk of the population, much of the finest scenery many of the best hunting and fishing resorts, and nearly all the history, tradition, and romance which combine to clothe the name of Canada with something like a savor of antiquity. Here was the center of French power in the New World, and here was fought to an end the contest between France and England. About Quebec and Louisbourg, Annapolis and Beausejour, battled the Leopards and the Lilies for the domihion of half a continent. Quebec is still mighty, the gateway to Canada ; but at Louisbourg the sheep pasture now where stood but yesterday a great stronghold, the "Dunkirk of America. There broods a spell of mystery and romance about the site of this obliterated citv. The magnitude and the heroism of the struggle for New France have been perpetuated for us by Farkman, and the pathos of its termination, as represented in a single episode, by Longfellow. The climate of the St. Lawrence region and the Maritime Prov- inces is in general not unlike that of New England. The climate of Nova Scotia, in particular, is neither so hot in summer nor so cold in winter as that of the neighboring New England States. Summer tourists will need to make such provision against cool evenings and occasional fog as they would make if visiting the seaside resoits of Maine In northeastern Quebec the summers are often chilly, ana down the giant funnel of the Saguenay there blows at times, m mid- summer, a wind which makes the snuggest wraps desirable. As for the fo-s that sometimes roll in on the Atlantic coast, one may escape them by a jaunt of a mile or two into the interior, or face them and experience the miracle which they will work on dull or faded complex- ions It is to the benign ministrations of the fog that the women of the Atlantic seaboard owe the bloom and freshness of their faces. The traveler who is well supplied with American bank-notes will fiad DO difficulty with the currency. American bills are good all over .■mm^imi^ii£i.^j£,,i vr^^>^:i^^!!^''^a^/^^t!!!S^-^ INTRODUCTION. g Canada. American silver, except in the border commumties is liable to a heavy discount, and in some places will be refused alC her The silver coinage of Canada is uniform for the whole nit • J with this the tounst sho.dd keep himself well supplld """' ^°' writX":"' *'' "''"'""'" '" "'"'"^ P"-^^^^^^«' ^ ^-^'^-^ chare 'hitetratit'^f'Se: in tTT'T" ""°^™^'^' ^« «'" P"- a strong, Englisriookin^mSpl? nf f ' f?-*'"^^'' «'" "«"*'»^' g^tling ada; and he"will ave «ftN ncr r^n. n ^""'"'^^T "'«^'' ^«^*^" '^ ^an^ Boston or New Yo?k It s'^of Zr,o ' ! '""'^'' ""'^''^^ Purchased in refer to, but suits made to oVferlTn^rV''"'^^'-'^"^'". ^^«^^ *hat we tweed, durable and s^yli4 mav he lot f ''' « '"'* ^* ^*^«* ^'-^^^^ian to 120; and a faultlel'd'eSn ^f'tsri'e ^^^^^^^ «>« of the smaller towns, such as Truro nml wS • xf ^^^A '" ^"'"^ ful tailors who have learned thX f?^ Windsor, ,n Nova Scotia, skil- abreast of the fashion aTp«! '^^ ^''''^'^^ ""^ '^^^'P themselves taxes, to furnith'torugMv s^a^freto^n^ul ol i°" r^•^"^ ^'"•^" of quiet and correct imttern for J ? ^j! 'I"'' Canadian tweed, n.ake his (or her) purd Lses in tIL J '""^"o"^ ^'""^ ^'" "^ "^^^-^^ g.eat furihops s.iplv IS S>ods in va"^^^^^^^ prices quite unheaid-6f in American cites fn^? ^^'* quality, at bark- and quill-work etc -aro n.n.n^ I .* '^'''=" work-moccasins, the chief hotels and on th7i.o^/° ^^ purciiased at counters in bazaars ' in Mont"4rHa Hf'aT "K T^^^^^^^ T' f/ ^""-^"^^ ' '"d^" a.;e sold in the quaint 'ofdhouiwhe. en ^hehnJv ft?'' ^"^'^^'^^'^ laid out." wneiem the body of Montgomery was win find he be.t of travehng facilities and accommodations The various railroad and steamboat lines bv which he mav make th. • ney are equipped with dl modern conveniences • anrtl ho 'T c..es above named, as well as at many otheT^^es ll n^t t To te^ are first class in every respect. This applies equally well to some of t^e side-trips which will be mentioned in the follo/inrplges bu comtr r ''':"" "■" '^ *"^^^«^^' -h-« - simifar de! ;e o comfort and luxury is not to be expected " In the summer season round-trip tickets are issued from New York * U J. ' ML J^ " mUiSJiS^- " ' •*4«#iM|iqp«4<«|IMfll ^ INTRODUCTION. and Boston and other centers; and detailed information may be ob- tained at the railroad and nteamboat agencies. At a rough CBtinrntc .t niay be said that the round trip from Boston or New York by way of Niagara, Toronto, Montreal, Quebec, Saguenay, Halifax, and St. John, will cost f.om $40 to !j!56 in fares, according to choice ol routes. The plan of the book, its arrangement and classification of matter, and the system of treatment, are based on the famous Baedeker Hand- books, which are conceded to possess in a pre-eminent degree the grand desiderata of compactness, portability, and facility of consultation. As much aid as possible is afforded to the eye by printing the names of places and objects either in italics, or, where they are of sufficient importance, in large-faced type. ... * The very rapid growth of Western Canada since the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway has led to a demand for information con- cerning that section of the Dominion. The traveler or tourist who comes from abroad must now cross the continent. He desires to see the North Shore of Lake Superior and visit the famous fishing-grounds of Lake Nepigon. The new province of Manitoba and its handsome capital of Winnipeg claim attention. Then, the great glaciers aiid snowy peaks of the Rockies are full of interest to those who are seek- ing for the beauties of Nature. The sportsman will desire to pause at some convenient spot, such as the Rocky Mountain Park, and indulge his taste with gun or rod. Finally, there are British Columbia, and Vancouver's Island on the beautiful inland sea of Puget Sound. As a guide or handbook of these and other equally attractive places a de- scription of Western Canada has been added to this edition of Apple- tons' Canadian Guide- Book. \^'^-.^i.^-N ^^ ^'^'^y^ra Falls frnn, p,.,,,,,,,_ spett Park. AIM^LETONS' CANADIAN (JUfDK-BOOK. PROVINCE OF ONTARIO. Nlouai-a Pal In. Shall not NIagara'H mighty v<,ice i'lHplie f„ action hiKli y 'Twor(!oaHy Huch a land to love, Or for her glory djo. K. (). Nelson, Trnvcling i„ .|,M „i,.„,u„„ ^11 * ^iVT:'"'' " ■■*''™ '''™«- opon to l,i,„,wil|, ii, clmrm „ ll, , ; ■''"""'''"°° ''■'"'"»'" may bo |)r„,,orl, »„id to bo-i,, ' ""* '"•'" "^ "-ip qimte to couvev anv in«f ;. ^'^""''cs- Not only are words inado- eye i..„, onXi r b rr;,::'^:;::''''"''"""""'"'' """"• No one c»„ bo ,«id to b.vel« t KamU f"'/" ■»»«'"«»■-■ and the,, p„s8od on To ,«tl v 1„ I T ''°' '"'"" •"" """^ '"»'' -c, u.„ tbo bo, tba. ,„oe.ed L owrritrixrof::::'' „ , "the visible scene Has entered unawares into his mind, With all its solemn imagery." ° the tounst, u,.lo„ a millionaire, „., constrained to 6 NIAGARA FALLS. Krasp hi. purso-strinr an.l tU-e fron. tl.e npot with the Hmalle.t po««t. blc delay. Now, however, all that i- oha...;e.l, and on the.ianad.an and AnuTioan Hide alike the view of the falln is free. One pay« only for Hueh unessential extras as erossin^ the f.'rry or v.s...«K The (.ave of the Win.ls behind the cataraet. Tl.e whole n.ay be done on foot or with the aid of the street-carB whieh run between the Whu'lt^^ol and the Falls, and Niagara need be costly to none but those who des.re to n.ake it 80. Cab charRes arc regulat.'d by law, and hotel rates* are much as elsewhere, varyiu'^ from $1 to *4 a day. The Falls are situated on the Niagara Kiver, about 22 miles from Lake Erie and 14 nnles from Ontario. This river is the channel by whieh all the waters of the four great upper lakes flow toward the (Julf of St. Lawrence, and has a total descnt of ',VM ft., leavu.g Lake Ontario still 231 ft. above the sea. Fr.m. the N. E. extrendty of Lake Erie the Niagara flows in a N. direeticm with a swift current for the first 2 miles, and then more gently wi.h a widening current w nch .livides as a portion passes on each side of Grand Island. As these unite below the island, the stream spreads out to 2 or » nules .n w.dth and appears like a (piiet lake studded with small, low islands. About 16 ndles from Lake Erie the current becomes narrow and begins to de- scend with -reat velocity. This is the commencement of The Rapid8, which continue for about a mile, the waters accon.plishing in this dis- tance a fall of 52 ft. The Rapids terminate below in a great cataract, the descent of which is 164 ft. on the American side and 158 ft on the Canadian. At this point the river, making a curve from W. to N spreads out to an extren.c width of 4,750 ft., en.bracmg Goat and the Three Sister Islands. Goat Island, which extends down to the brink of the cataract, occupies about one fourth of this space leaving the river on the American side about 1,100 it. wide, and on the Canadian side about double this width. The line along the verge of the Canadian Fall is much longer than the breadth of this portion of the river, by reason of Its horseshoe form, the curve extending up ..central part of the current. The waters sweeping down the Bapui.H Lorn. a grand *The best hotels arc-on the American side, the ProsjKct House ine ui.st UUII.IO c:„^«/.,... finusc and KaltenhaciCs ; is ?y ^o' hour, hut it is usually easy to arrange special tcims. All tolls arc Tiai i oy xl»e traveler. NIAGARA FALLS. ^ curve as they fall dear of th.. rocky wall into th„ . In the profound chas... holow the fal^ H '^ ^""^ ''^ ^^'^ ^"«- to leH. than 1,000 ft J tin 'd h' "'?""'' '""'^'^^''"' '" ^'''^h whirlpools and cd.lU a" u7t^::T""^' '^'"'*' ""^ ^-- ^^-^ -.ero.a.Uappear.ti:ir:;:-::-t^^^ Niagara Falls and Vicinity. jards. Tlic nvei- ll,„n emerges at 8 NIAGARA FALLS. Lewiston into a lower district, having descended i04 ft. from the foot of the cataract. Here at Lewiston, where ends the gorge, -vas once the site of the cataract. Instead of plunging into a deep chasm and hiding its grand- eur from all but those who would search it out, the gigantic torrent rolled in fuU view of the world, over the lofty line of Queens- ton Heights, the escarpment of the high plateau of the upper lakes. The recession of the Falls to their present point is thus discusseu by the Duke of Argyll : FORMER POSITION OF THE FALLS. "A very curious question, and one of great scientific interest, arises out of the great difference between the course of the Niagara River above and below the Falls. It has, in my opinion, been much too Sv assumed bv geologists that rivers have excavated the valleys in AiJh tSey rin Th^ cutting power of water is very gieat, but it vanes Tn pro, ortln to the liability c>f floods, and the wearing power of stones Sat mavbe canicd along; much also depends on the position ot the rocks over which a river runs. If the st,-ati Scation present edges whidi are easilv attacked or undermined, even a gentle stream may cut 7anid V f or it elf a deeper bed. On the other hand, when the rocks do S eKPOse anv surfaces which arc ea.ily assailable, a very large body wa^^er mav run over them for ages without being able to scoop out more thin a few feet or even a few inches. Accordingly, such is actu- X the case with the Nia-^ara River in the upper part of its course from Se Erie to the Falls. In all tb. ages durig which it has run into tint course for 15 miles it has rot been able to ren.ove more than a few feet of soil or rock. The country is level and the banks are very ow so low that in looking up the bed of the stream the more distant tree's on I' cr bank seen? to vise out of the water. But suddenly in t,e middle of the comparatively level country the mcr cnco»nt«rs^ a p eci ierand thencefonvard for 1 miles runs through a profound clef oi-'avlne'the bottom of which is not less than 300 ft. below the genera ?ev^l of the country. How came that precipice to be there .^ This w^u d be no puzzle'at all if the precipice were Joined with a sudden change in the general level of the country ou either side of he rl^J-- and there is such a change— but it is not at the Pal s. It is 7 miles Cthe on. At the Falls "there is no depression in the general level of the banks. Indeed, on the Canadian shore, the and rises very con- s dembU just above the Falls. On the American shore it contmues at the same Jlevation. The whole country here, however, is a table-land, anddattaSand has a termlnation-an edge-over which the river must a 1 before it can reach Lake Ontario. But that edee does not run Tco^s the country at Niagara Falls, but along a line much nearer to ? 1 n .,.; whiro it i-^ a con-ni-nnus feature in the landscape, and Sw Qa^nsJoriloi^htrThe „a.«™U.l«ee, the il'.A*^ 4. , °\T-'7'''WPf5 NIAGARA FALLS. 9 fi^tnTtt'JZ'l^TsZlteVr!'' "''' "™« ^ ">a. edge .„a backward in the course ottLl 2- %P<^'>™nce of haviof' cut K' ^„ would have taken 35,000 years oy^'^ ^''^''- ^* thi« rate the 1^^ the present position ^f thSs '''^''* "^ '''"•'-' '^om Queensto™ For a detailed descrinfinn ^* *u M. .he .o„ri,. „a, dcpVd„:Vn'e7;r™- '"'',"' """^'' " *^ ""■■ch go into particular, h a way IhV, "' '~' 8'"<l<^->><'ok», »"ch range as the present rle «?' """ ""' '"' ''™' '" » "* ° fro™ Appletons. General G™de . n :'"°" "■''" ""''""'• "'"•'''"^d crossed constantly by tcavilvl»i "'"'■' P'^*""^' "«*<!. and s fr»n. the bridge i' one t, 'e 1*" "T"- /"^ ™" "^ «'- 4d Boener,. Below the bridge, a tad ."' 'T"^' '"' '"« W»S»™ American Falls, is Ch,pi,Js island „'! "" ""'^'^ "' '"» man who fell )„.„ .^e sLeam whTle'a w „ , T ""'"""^ "' " "»*- on this isle, and was rescued by a m' rI °° ""'""«''■ "" '"^S-^" ta «cuc in a skiff. About „id,y„ T.T'!' """' ^"""""-^ «»' "> Bath Wand. A short walk b i„Is us , ,, 7™ ""' ~'' """"':'' I-»a Island, a huge ™ck.n,ass „TCe . l''! 'T"'""'' '""'"^ «° between the Center Fall, and 11,/ ,° ".""'o 1"Mer, ot an acre, lying rainbows seen at .his poin" wh n' hT'Z -"^ „ '"^ «^"W'-> '-naf naxK i. bears. J„s, beyond Lu„,. 7 ." " '""' '"""= Sivcn it the "Biddle-s Stairs," after ICholat BHdt' ? ■""™' '*""™-' '-"^^ by "hose order they were buil U 1 ' ^"""^ ^"""^ "ank fame *e '00. of the s.ai; wUe " ' eeld tT' "l ""' "■''"■ ^™""' «;-es an, wa.e';:„Ts:r fr:;:;:L':r '-* " "■•' '»''-»"'• the s.airs (fee, t,.5o), and the c™ "f n ' "'• '"' °''"""'"' »' -pass safely i„.„ ^^c recess brnThJ ..::'.""""■. ™""t'- ^«" Mas'cai rainbow pictures are found ;,,k- '" * '"""'""' '>'>y»"' etounda. .h,sspot;so,ne(imesl>ows„f 10 NIAGARA FALLS. entire circles and two or three at once are seen. A plank-walk has been carried out to a cluster of rocks near the foot of the fall, and fr-om it oiK of the best views of the American Falls may be obtained. The up-river way, along the base of the cliff toward the Horseshoe Falls, is difficult and much obstructed by fallen rocks. It was from a point near Biddle's Stairs that the renowned jumper, Sam Patch, made two successful leaps into the water below (in 1829), saying to the throng of spectators, as he went off, that "one thing might be done as well a^s another." Reascending the stairs, a few minutes' walk along the summit of the cliff brings us to a bridge leading to the islet on which stood the famous Terrapin Tower, which having become danger- ous was blown up with gunpowder in 1873. The view of the Horse- shoe Falls from this point is surpassingly grand. It was estimated by Lyell that 1,500,000,000 cubic feet of water pass over the ledges every hour. One of the condemned lake-ships (the Detroit) was sent over this fall in 1829; and, though she drew 18 ft. of water, she did not touch the rocks in passing over the brink of the precipice, showing that the water is at least 20 ft. deep above the ledge. At the other end of Goat Island (reached by a road from the Horse- shoe Falls), a series of graceful bridges leads to the Three Sisters, as three small islets Iving in the Rapids are called. On Goat Island, near the Three Sisters, is the Hermit's IJathing-place, so called after Francis Abbott, " The Hermit of Niagara," who used to bathe here, and who finally drowned while doing so. At the foot of Grand Island, near the Canada shore, is Naw Island, which was the scene of some interestmg incidents in the Canadian Rebellion of 1837-'38, known as the Macken- zie War. It was near Schlosscr Landing, about 2 miles above the Falls, on the American side, that during the war the American steamer Caro- line, which had been perverted to the use of the insurgents, was set on th-e and sent over the Falls by the order of Sir Allan McNab, a Canadian officer. The State of Xew York purchased, in 1885, the property bordermg the Falls, and laid out Niagara Park, to be controlled by a State Com- mission, empowered to remove all obstructions to the view, and to im- prove the grounds. No charge is made for admission to Niagara Park. A " vertical railwav," running on a steep incline, leads from the park to the base of the cliff; and from its foot the river may be crossed in ti.e steamboat the Maid of the Mist. The passage across the river is perfectly safe, and is worth making for the very fine view cf the Falls NIAGAKA FALLS. .^ obtained in mid-stroam \ • a- «"e landing „„ «,e c„„.«.„ liUe "/.ret^'Tl" "''"■'"' '-"' f™™ ton House. By di,„bi„g ove ,1 ' 1 '.t " """■ "*"' "" Clif- American side (,„rn .„ .?,„ fef. T .eH^ "' '*'■ "-r" °' *" ""« »» the ■»t maj. pe„„„«,e .„ a point w ,. 1 ,! '"/ "" ™"""^'' "« '»-•. get what is pe,h,p,, on ,1," Jht" *; ''"f »' '"^ A™*,n Fa,,, „„, The ns„al way of cros, „!^ I, """'' "" <" '' "" »« l-d- Suspension BHdge, wh eT at e tte " f '' °'»^ '"^ "- mile below ae Falls, Ind i, one of ,1, "'"■'"^'" "-e eighth of a .'".•pedestrians, 250.,.' I- JL "n" L'^J^f '^ "^ *e loeality (fee '•' 1,1»0 ft, from cliff to cliff l 268 ftf . ' "' ' """" "' ^''M-Wi above the ..i.e., and it was' Sid nTs :";,'" '""^'' '"" ■"» "' th^tmeture being replaced by i™n i" T^-fT ""*" P""' "' of Jannary ,0, ,889, but has been rebu U Tir,"" '"' "^ '"^ «»'« '"'ie .» too ft. high, and that on the Can ;. T" "" "'" •*™*a" the left from the brid-e termiL , ? '"' "* '»' "• A road to views of .h„ . ■ " t"™"""' leads a ong the eliff .«■ j- views of the American and Center Fall, . i . ' '■"'"*'"« good t«race near the Falls is the sn„r-HM „ . t°''' *"™'= "''°™ the immense overhanging ph.,: J:;'»«' ^'We Reek, though the «mce fallen over the precipice F^ZH- "^ """ """« !>»» '""g ">e Falls is obtained, 'ndThr. of Zp "t"" "^ ''^'' '-»' ™w o1 grand. The concuss on of the f.l,in„ ? '°'' '^'"' '' '"""""Pa-'ably below produces a spray that veilf ft"! ! ' """ '"""^ '» "«' '''-"pths Above this impenetraWe fclrl ,' b r' "™ '""''' "" ''» ""'"«■ *"d of lighter .spray rises which wbe'°;' '" "• """'^ *" J""", a P~por direction, display 'n,?„^i:'?" '" '"" ^'""^^ "l»» it in the Priateness of the name Nia ^1 ,' ^ , T J"""""- '"'"' «PP-^ drat here. At Table R„.. I * Thunder of Waters") is verv evi 'o.' .he .a4t' nr;7e H^zr-''''^,^""" ".ir-pr::;^„t passage (which no nervous pe™""".?, '!' ""' '""■>• ■""» ows by a writer in Picturesque I ,ea ■ Th'e""^ ''I '""*'" "' ^»'- »a™w and steep, but perfectly »!• ,' , "'"°"'™ '""''■"«■" are «» to the bottom. Here we 1 ! ' f """P'" "^ "=i°'"e» brings l>a.dly begun to traverse the p'tllrri"' '""^'^''^ '^ « i""" »"h a mischievous sweep LTT' ! °''™ "'''» »' »'■»!» when 'ion. and fairly inundZ'u" Z It' ' '""^ ^'""-"'•' '" °" Oi- dering noises of the falling' watrs ^'°"' ^''"'"'' ""h "'"^ <*""■ P«'h«^ i. broad, and the wal t e'a,:"""" ""^ °'"' ""'• - '!>« there '"^ n-+i • - '"'*"iR easv, new.po!Por° '^••- - ■ * ,- ^ '° nothing- m it. The tall «foi . -^"•"^- «'^- ^in to think tall, stalwart negro, who acts as guide Tf^j »;, wp J-,-}; Ji w. 12 NIAOARA FALLS. listens with amusement to such comments, and confidently awaits a change in the tone of the scoffers. More and more arched do the rocks become as we proceed. The top part is of hard limestone, and the lower of shale, which has been so battered away by the fury of the waters that there is an arched passage behind the entire Horseshoe Fall, which could easily be traversed if the currents of air would let us pass. But, as we proceed, we begin to notice that it blows a trifle, and from every one of the 32 points of the compass. At first, how- ever, we get them separately. A gust at a time inundates us with spray ; but the farther we march the more unruly is the Prince of Air. First, like single spies, come his winds; but soon they advance like skirmishers ; and, at last, where a thin colunm of water falls across the path, they oppose a solid phalanx to our eiforts. It is a point of honor to see who can go farthest through these corridors of Jilolus. It is on record that a man, with an herculean effort, once burst through the column of water, but was immediately thrown to the ground, and only rejoined his comrades by crawling face downward, and digging his hands into the loose shale of the pathway. Prof. Tyndall has gone as far as mortal man, and he describes the buffeting of the air as indescribable, the effect being like actual blows with the fist." Termination Rock is a short distance beyond Table Rock, at the verge of the fall. The spray here is blinding, and the roar of waters deafening. Below the Falls are several points of interest, which are best vis- ited on the American side. The first of these is the old Suspension Bridge, which spans the gorge 2 miles below the Falls, and supports railway-tracks, a roadway, and footways. The bridge is 245 ft. above the water, and supported by towers on each bank, the centers of which are 821 ft. apart. It was built in 1855 by the late John A. Roebling, and cost $300,000. The fee for crossing the bridge is 25c. for pedes- trians, which confers the right to return free on the same day. From one side of this bridge a fine distant view of the Falls is had, and from the other a bird's-eye view of the seething, tumultuous Whirl- pool Rapids. Three hundred feet above may be seen the new Jlichi- gan Central R. R. Cantilever Bridge. By descending the elevator, which leads from the top to the baee of the cliff near the site of the old Monteagle House, a nearer view is obtained of these wonderful rapids, in which the vvaters rush along with such velocity that the mid- dle of the current is 30 ft. higher than the sides. Three miles below iwaits a do the >ne, and y of the jrseshoe ould let a trifle, st, how- US with ! of Air. oce like i across point of (lus. It through ind, and digging lall has le air as £, at the f waters best vis- ipension supports t. above »f which oebling, r pcdes- Frcm lad, and Whirl- w Jlichi- jlevator, e of the jnderful the mid- :s below Luna Falls and Rock of Ages. 18 ver. NIAGARA TO TOKOXTO. tlic Falls is the Whirl nn«I From Niagara to Toronto. «ho .ive,. bank below .l,e " p tl bl ' °' '"" '"""' -' ">■ ™» «» »i"Sle, *2.«r,; ,.„„„,, fJ^'t^T^TT "-"'"■'■■o«e(farc., t'mity of ,,cc.i„g,h„, ,„„..,„•„ ;,,ii,: "" '°"8'"'. ""-""to an o„„o,.. by the .ivor ,.„„.e (fa,., ,i ^,o t° r/,"' "";"'"""■ " "- »»» boautlc, of ,he Niagara .11^,,^ !„ ' ?'"' *'■'"'' ""' "<"< "'» Q»c.on.„on Ileig,,,,, an,l the H L"""™' "' <'""""". ">'• "o.ied the-Lakc, beoiJe, onjovlng a ctl 1 '"T'' """'" °' N'asara-on. of Ontario. ' " '°°' ""' "' ■"> "'"es across the waters Tllii WATER ROUTE. i.i.n"'T:^*i;t™tF:;;:' ""t •"' '"^■"^■' "■«"■''« """«-<, C™.™1 .0 NiagaLon^b Lt ::L crV'"'" '^>- ">" «-«.- American .bore ,„. ,be ^T„„ y" ™ ' ! ?"'"'" '''''<^' ^ "'""S the ' "!!« fron, the ,„on.l, where ™t n T , '° "" '"""' "' I'"^^"'". Of .i.o "Niagara River U„ • „,a" r ""= ""^ «>*■'"-"' »'™".er t.n,e., each day. A verv nonnl ! ''?"'>-«"">» «cro..s the lake four Qaeen».on on'.be Ni^garr'n rT " "^ ■''»"" f™- Toronto „ ;<;a.ara K„„., P„,„ ,„", ^.t^'j^ ^ --«'-n i., n,a„e with ,he "•e :•!«,. ,0 ebe cataract and tl . i Le o n" °"°"' '"' ""^ .l-nd. This line i, ,„ |„y ■" ™ "S^ "f Ch.ppewa, three n,ilc., '"'-esting .rip_,h, changi! ::„".":! '" "", ">" •-' ""« of thi. phases of the river itself, the „5,i IpoJl "° " """• "" ' ••"■)"•"? by the .stretch of „„ie, vater "Id h ""•"° ' V"'""' """ •^"<^'««"'^ smniounted by Broek\ l.i .. , ' "■'""■ <>' Q-'e^ston Hei"hts aPP.oaeh to L ^^ Z:!:^ Z^T'' "" '"""""-' "^'^^^ the Horschoe Falls and nZt, """'"" *'""'• «°at Island, and -If- Tho ears „n t n" re i „ ''' T "7 °' "" ''""""S -•».■»« it- ^•'"oted that every Passr^^^rlls a e,c7 r"''^' "'''''• '"■» '" -"" Menery on either side. ''°'' ™''l>»'™cted view of the 14 NIAGARA TO TORONTO. The New York Central vims through The Ciorge itself, along a ledge whleh has been carved out of the face of the cliff. Above towers the beetling front of rock, and far below thunders the tremendous tor- rent. In the gorge of Niagara the water does not flow, or rush, or dart, but it bounds and bursts as if belched forth from some hidden vt)lcano. Presently the mad flood is caught and enchained for a time in the sul- len vortex of the Whirlpool. Of this unmvthieal Maelstrom one catches a thrilling glimpse from the cnv window. Then the gorge nar- rows again ; and plunging through short tunnels, swerving dizzily on its airy shelf, round jutting peaks, the roiid threads the windings of the abyss, gradually descending, till it comes out upon the lower level at Lewiston. Here is the head of navigation, and at the dock, to the side of which the railway has now been extended, the toiu'ist steps or board the steamers. The river rests here in a great, slow-reeling eddy. In this eddy the steamer turns, and is grateful for the service of the revolving current. Opposite Lewiston rise Queenston Heights, the most famous battle-field of the War of 1812. Here, for an autumn day, three (juarters of a century ago, raged a bitter struggle between the Ameri- can and Canadian forces, resulting at length in victory for the (Cana- dians, who paid too dear for their triumph, however, with tic death of their heroic leader, General Sir Isaac Brock. May it prove an augury of perpetual peace and good-will along these frontiers that when, two days after the battle. General Brock was being buried in one of the bastions of Fort George, minute-guns were fired from the American Fort Niagara across the river, as a tribute of respect to their illustri- ous adversary ! On the summit of the Heights stands the monument which has been erected in memory of the favorite hero of Canadians. This is the second monument erected on the spot, the earlier and smaller one, built by a grant from the Provincial Parliament in 1824, having been blown up in 1840 by a scoundrel named Lett. The new monument was erected by the voluntary contributions of the militia and Indian warriors of Canada. It is a massive stone structure 190 it. in height, 19 ft. higher than Nelson's Column in Trafalgar Square. At the top, beneath a colossal statue of Brock, is a gallery reached by 235 steps. Standing on this gallery one sees unroll before him a matchless pano- rama, of battle-field and vineyard, of cataract and quiet stream, of dark wood and stcepled villages and breadths of peach-orchard, and NIAGARA TO ToJiONTO. 15 fortresses no lonirer hoqfi1«. „. i r t».e s.„oke of tho^reat'c^Cl ::;;;:- '^ ^'"^ ^^^^ "^ Ontario From Lewiston to Nia'aZ 1 r Z '"' "''^ ''''' rapidly between high, .oode/ C's; l^' '7 """ ^^^ ^ -'- fortuble ho.nes. If the tourist as ;ta' ""' '"''"''' "" """ Michigan Central U. R. ..^es ll U .■ ' to V " " '"'""''" ^^'•''^'' '''« ••«>;te, as it winds down the si.le ,;\ ''".^^^''^''-^'-t'.e-Uke. This Wide range over the fertile Nia-^ura niail T'n ^''^'''''f""^"^ S-'ves a gardens and vineyards, and a s o Idt " '" *''^'- S'ory of peaeh and Crock's n.on.unen . J, u "^^ "^'^'^ "'' <^"-nston If'.VM, •"uch less pictnrcs„„e as it 1? '^.^"'^"-^'-^^^'J that it i: ,, to the American si,,e. ''' ' ^""^""^"^ ^^^^n that b, crossing :<>^^^^:^t^l:::!:::^^^^ ^--- -^ p-pies wer^ A.nericans and Canadians have ::, 'r''^;, "''' "^' ^^"^'^^•' Lake regions, wi.ere the first I'arlian n to I 1" ""'^'"""""^ '^^ ^''^ Canada was held in ancestral fl Ih . ''j' '' ^"'^^'"^^ «f ^Jpper - now but a merr, watering-p,;; "j " '" '''t ""' ^ ^P-«^-« oak, t>eld of Lundy^s Lane, the sTene o . "^f'^^'-hood is the battle- Canadian and American forces The ci/T'"""'* ^^'"^^"^ '-'^--n -n-face of Niagara's sun.mer Jalm are h^f ^Tf" '^'' """ '^^''- "»« the Queen's Royal Hotel, which a 1 atten 1 ^T1'' "''^"'"^ '-'- «t from Fort Niagara opposte ' ' f ' '""""^^^ V the American officers The country rfund 1^^ ^1'^'^''^''' ''''''' ''^^' ^--ti: be had, and the facilities for boatt^J^^^^^^^ capital bass-fishing to In the days of its political and m Uta I in f '" "'* *" '' ''^'^^^^' '"ore business-like name of Newark ^ '"^Portance the town bore the The run across from Niagara toTnr. . -d in the tourist season tlL° ke is ZaM ""'''" ^'""* *^^« ^--^ tario, however, is- ISO miles lo ! „ b:^;;""^'""^^'- ^^ ^ake On-' possesses every facility for an oc. « in , '" "'^''^'^^ "^''^^dth, it proportions. The Chico. a Z^""^ ,t?/ ^^-e Atlan'tic 'o^.ever, are Clyde-built oeean-goit enft of L f'T ^'"^ ^'■-'" lar service in all weathers le'iyL.L! ^'''' ^"^ "'^'"tain regu- ^^••^0 .. .., 12 noon, and '5 40 p "m aid n" "'"' ^"'-^''^^' '' ' - -> hour later. There are officers of the A^ ^ ^^ara-on-the-Lake half an 16 jriAOARA TO TORONTO. ; I lines of Canada and America. Returning f'-ainern leave Toronto 1 A. M., 1 1 A. M., 2 P. M., and 4.45 »'. M. THE JOURNEY BY THE (J RAN I) TRUNK R. R. If one chooses to go by land around the head of the lake his way lies through a fair country. The Grand Trunk Ry. runs from the Falls to Hamilton, wiunce the Great Western division of the same road carries the traveler eastward tt) Toronto. A few miles west of Niagara is Merritton, where the railway plunges into a tunnel which leads it under the Welland (.'anal. Menitton is otherwise known as Thorold Station, as it is there that passengers leave the train for the little town of Thorold on the canal. In this neighborhood is the bat- tle-field of Beaver Dams, which Canadians regard with pardonable pride. During the War of IHl'i, when the Americans were in posscB- yion of Fort George and Niagara and the Rritish troops had fallen back on Burlington (now Ilaunlton), the British general advised the Canadian vohintcers to disband and return to their homes, as he was contemplating the possibility of abandoning all that section of the province to the foe and retiring to Kingston. In this crisis, being thrown entirely upon their own resources, the Canadians proved themselves equal to the emergency. What followed has been thus described by Miss Louisa Murray : " Merritt's militia regiment of light horse, with some other militiamen and volunteers, established themselves at a building known as ' De Cew's stone house,' converting it into a little fortress, whence they harassed the Americans, driving off their foraging parties, and intercepting their supplies, with such success and impunity as only an intimate knowledge of the country could have given them. Colonel Boerstler was sent from Niagara with two field-pieces and 600 men to break up this little stronghold, and one or two other outposts of the British, who, since the decisive battle of Stony Creek, were moving back toward Fort George, and he might have succeeded but for the patriotic spirit and bravery of a woman. Laura Secord, the young wife of James Secord, a militiaman lying wounded at Queens- ton, saw the American troops moving from Niagara, and, learning their destination, set out at night, and walked twenty miles through the woods to warn the little band at the stone house of Boerstler's ap- proach. At any time it would have been a difficidt journey, but in war time, with the risk of meeting some savage Indian or other lawless marauder in thQ lonely woods, only a woman of singular energy and NIAGARA TO TOUONTO. courag,. «.ouI.| have ..n<l,.,tak,.n it Mrs S. i , o'clock la the n.orni.u^ he JJlT "'""' "' "''"^•'"' ^"'"h at « Hccn through the thick foha^.e of ,' " '"" -^^"''^"""-'•l trehled w.u.„ poured volley after voliev/ronrthoi ^ *'*'*'''• ^'•""' """>"g whieh they dered An.eHcanH, ever/ oZ ' '" "'" T "" ^'" •^•"■'"'-"^ "-^ l>-il- dian«. While B^erstl /wa 'nt, ^"r.' "^ ^''« «-- .V^""^ of the In. fvat, Ensign Fitzgibhon luh 4 ? • "" "''''''''■ ^" "''^""^•^ or ro- neighborhood, ar Hved I t r':^?! ^"f -">• ^"•^•^" droops in the With admirable eoun.ge and col J, T, "^ '''' '•^'"^^•"" •»' ""^-o- •"-ket, and, holding i! up ad vat ' " '' ' ^'"'" '"">'Jkerehief on a Uo«n their arnu. and «ur 'Ir ?'"' '""'"^ °" ^'-' --»y to h y that the whole Hntil ;'l X');'''^''' ^^t"^' '^"^"••^^'-' ^'"-i;^ fantry, «o cavalry, 2 field gunTanU ^ 'nlT ;"' ''^ '"""'^ ^' ''' "' and hia 240 men." The victor^ To. ''''"'■"' '^ »''^' ^'"""fc' ensign -nent. with the inscrip:ion.'L^^^^^^^^^^ achievement of Laura Seeord la be „ ' I^""'' ''' ''''"" ''''' '^'"'^ drama by Mrs. S. A. Curvon amlofT " ' "'' ""J^"^'^ o^ a historical from its Lake Ontario outlet Te"' ""' '''"'^'' '^^'-^ ^ '"•'- fertile Niagara region, and " supl;' -.h""''; ""' ^'" '"oxhaustibly n^eansof thecanaUSt cj.a Z ir' ""'""^^'^ "'"*-"— by' eial city. It is purely „ prod of ' - ""^ '" '"^"'^^"* ^•>-«'-' - a city to the IndomLbfe en:;;^ w^^^^^^^^ ^ 7'' '^ ^^^^^^^'^ conceived the idea of the great on.n'nn ^""'*"" ^'«'''". ^^o to completion. St. Cath! n s rT""^ ""' '"'^"^ P"^^'-*^ ^* -chine-works; handson, TubH il IT^ ""r^'''^ ""•'«' ^^ of the best collegiate institute in h' '"'' ''""''''^ '^^ ""« popular health resort, much IZu « T"""''' ^' '« ^'«« ^ very mineral springs rank h" am^^^^^^^^^^ '"""f'^T ^'^ ""^'^^^ ^' 'ts Tl'ere is fishing i„ th^ nethh I ,''"'' ^"^^^''^ "^ the world Piel^el. C.iJboteltXn?i;:j7,,r" '''" '-''' ^^ Ontari: is I ^ ^ZtZ^tZZ:''-'- '' '^'^ ^^^^ ^^ l^'t to the sea for the vast trade of t'r' f ""^ "' "' ^««^ ^" o»t. "^iies in length from Port Colbo ,! o Vl"l '^'^'"- ^^'^ '^-"^ - ^^ Lake Ontario. The differenelt ^ ,'t .^^^^"^ ^^^^ 8 ' ^et^eca the lakes is about 327 rrry-.rw" 'p^wr'i^^r^^ '^' ■" 18 NIAGARA TO TORONTO. * .! •ii Hi ! i ft., which is overcome by a system of 25 lift-locks. All the masonry of the work is of splendid and massive proportions, and is built of an enduring gray limestone. At Welland the canal is led over the Cliip- pewa River by a costly aqueduct. The original feeder of the canal was the Chippewa River, which proving at times inadequate, a branch canal was cut to the Grand River. Of late, however, arrangements have been made by which the canal is always adequately supplied from Lake Erie itself. Along the line of the canal are strung a number of prosperous villages. The first sod of the original canal was turned in 1824. Mr. Merritt's modest conception was a canal " 4 ft. deep, 1 ft. wide at bottom, 19 ft. wide at the water surface, and to accommodate vessels not exceeding 40 tons burden." The present structure has a width at the bottom of 100 ft., and accommodates vessels of 1,500 tons. Leaving St. Catharines our train passes the villages of Jordan and Beamsville, and 27 miles from Niagara we find ourselves at the busy village of Grimsby. Here is the summer resort of Grimsby Park, with its famous M^ethodist camp-meeting ground in a grove of oaks and pines beside the lake. The region about Grm sby is literally one great peach-orchard. It is estimated that there are something like 400,000 peach-trees in the Niagara district, which ships annually over a million baskets of this delicious fruit. The beauty of the peach orchards, whether in bloom or when bending under their wealth of luscious pink aad white and golden spheres, is something that beggars description. The peach harvest begins about the end of July and continues until the middle of October. The peaches are shipped all over Canada in baskets covered with pink gauze. In this favored legion flourish also apples, pears, plums, cherries, all kinds of small fruits, melons, quinces, grapes, walnuts, chestnuts, and even tigs. Beyond Grimsby we have only the stations of Winona and Stony Creek to pass before we come to Hamilton. Hamilton. The chief hotel of Hamilton is the Royal ($2.50 to $4 per day), which is first class in every respect ; but there are many other good hotels, such as the St. Nicholas ($1.60 to $2) and the Dominion ($1 to $1.50), where the toui'ist may be accommodated more cheaply. The city is vcW supplied with restaurants, called coffee-rooms. The chief club is the Hamilton Club. Theatres, the Grand Opera-House, Asso- ciation Hall, Alexandra Arcade. The city is traversed by street-cars, and hacks are to be obtained at the station and the cab-stands as well as at the chief hotels. NIAGARA TO TORONTO. lake, where the northern and LI \ ""' "'" "P'"'^ ""<> «' the .he east »i„„s of een.u ir,;;; Wed 7" ,?"' ""' ' ""'«' »P-' nearly a thousand feet in ^Wth Thi °° f"' " '""« •""■ <" «nJ Beach, and it cut. off f,.„„ o, 'H ' ! ," '''"'""> "^^ BBrllBg,„„ '-»"ton Ba,, the harbor of Ha, LoT /i ! ""' '""°' «"- »' >'»'- oonneets the inner and the outer waters tI ;'""' ""-""sI- ""= &acb raor resort fbr the citizen, of Hamiltol, '"* '" " '''™""' »">■ o4™t"X*f.rchlVS''"'-"»^*-'«»-iV.and aWymart a fonner leve, „t , ^ ;"™''"''.;"» '"-.and pr„h. chosen original,,, by a loyah-s. J^I^^^^ '^' ''%"' ""n-ilton „s of .ts splendid landscape The °m'„ . ^'""'' "" "™"nt Niagara escarpment, which here .... '"""'""■ I" a portion of the form the ainphithea re » chX c .! ' '' "'* ''""' *» '"''' '» «ra.l,, dividing the hei^h s in !,,•? T^' "°»" » S™" "lopin. -, at the foo^of whi:^" w ,e L"? J'r '"™ " «'S'"'- «"'- '- .hat, in rcnotest ages, the wa. s Tif p""'"' =""°S'^'» '^" »elves, instead of at Xi^gaW. " ^"^ 'i''»chargcd them- when BtltaVo7Helrt"bce»''"'° ""' '" "''* '» 'he War of mo one George Hamilton :;' ,,1X7. °' """"'^ °''""'°"'' -^' ling of a c.^nal through BurL^ on Z Ik ™ ""• '" ' «" ""^ «"»- H.on, which, howeve,! w. aX „fc °f 5'^'°.""= P'-P-i'^of Han,. "»^ great fire in ,sk uZtZT::'::!''!'':''''''^ P'"^"- woA again with the pluck and ,nir w, T '!'*''»"™'"'. «nd went to of ".he An,bitio„s City " J{„ al' ■ it "' ""'"'"' '■<^'' *e title save one particular-and in t.atTT k '"" '° "^ ="™"«^'' '" all ho|». Of old, she thougl t :,L7' '? '™^ "'■■"""'■"'«<' ''» "i.h a popniation less than 4 "ooo , 7"' ''"' "'"=»• '^n 1888, Kobablv changed the t.,: o ' he '.thir !°™"'° "''" ""'«'»■ *= ■0 ;ange of possibility. Her anci™ "l r'"'''"' ""•" '"""» -;.. W .0 left utterly behind, ^^hX^rn -r.' "Hn^ i::r:.:?„ra*;:c;;it::V"^^^"" *•'■• •"'* ----• of two dioceses, the A„s:ti p;:7;-."'^'""«"^*»i-..v vatuolie bishopric of Hamilton. The itv h.sT^",'" ""'' "'° '"""»° "e city has handsome public build- 20 NIAGARA TO TORONTO. ings, and stately private residences on the Mountain. Cresting the height are the spacious buildings of the Lunatic Asylum. A stately thoroughfare, dividing the city from the Mountain to the bay, is McNab St., named for Hamilton's hero, the politician, patriot, and soldier, Sir Allan McNab. It was he who, during the rebellion in 1837, shat- tered the power of the rebels at Toronto, and organized the flotilla on the Nia{,tra which cut out the steamer Caroline and sent her over the Falls. On the heights stands Dundurn Castle, where Sir Allan used to live, looking out over the city whose prosperity he had done so much to promote. One of the most delightful features of Hamilton is what is known as " The Gore." This is a spacious and beautiful public gar- den in the heart of the city, with the busiest thorouglifares all about it. The open space, which is cool and musical with fountains and brill- iant with flowers, is triangular in shape, and formed by the converging of York, James, and King Sts. Overlooking " The Gore " are the thoroughly artistic buildings of the Hamilton Provident and Loan Society, the Canada Life Assurance Company, and the Court-Uouse. But 6 miles from Hamilton, and connected with it by a steam tramway, is Dundas. In one thing Dundas can never be outrivaled by Hamilton, and that is in her magnificent landscape, which opens like a dream be- fore the traveler's eyes as he sweeps around the mountain. At the foot of the lovely Dundas \''allcy lies a wide marsh which goes by the nickname of " Coote's Paradise," after an English officer. Captain Coote, who was deeply enamored of the fine duck, snipe, and " coot " shooting there to be obtained. The marsh still maintains its repu- tation ; and in Burlington Bay are good black bass, silver bass, perch, and pike fishing. The pike take the trollmg-spoon freely during the latter part of August, but at other times rise better to the live minnow. From Hamilt(m to Toronto, if wearied of the rail, one may go by the steamers of the Haniilton Steamboat Co., four times daily (fare, I5c.\ a trip of 3!^ miles along a pleasant coast. The boats are fast and comfortable, and call each way at Burlington Beach and at the vast strawberry-gardens of O'^kville. The tourist desirous of visiting the Northern Lakes, or what is perhaps more widely known as the Muskoka region, may branch off by the Northern and Western R. R. from Hamilton via Beeton and Barrie, and leave Toronto till his re- turn, but the fastest train services center in Toronto. Beeton is of interest a§ the center of the great honey industry of Ontario. The TOEONTO. 21 tho ,war,ns are watched ^^2'"''' '''°"'°""- ^^ "^^S-es of bred catllc ^ive to Xir , ?" '■''™ """ '"'"""''"•'' «' "«>™ugh. «f the Wite strain? T e e "nee „;'" -"T '" ""'"'^ ""^ """'^ b.ou«h. .„a „teh degree of "e* !„ ZTT"' "^T" ""' ^'™ we meet the Northern road fr„,n Cl. ™' °" '"""' ^'■""'X'. Toronto. «paci„„, harbor crowded wi* he trnffi f .t '?","'' """ » '='= '"" formed by what i, k„„w„ * The ,,? d 1" *■"• ■""'' '"■'''"^ '' P.oa.ure.gro„„d for the Llll';' °t" llf '"^"7 ™-o^ Toronto what Conev Islanrl an^ \i u ^' ^® Island is to It is really nothin5,„o ^ i" '"'" ''"'^^^ ^--^ ^« ^^-- York. and offseoli.,. ,?o:rr W S^ ^^Us ^ ^'. ^'^ ^^^ ^^^^^ changin- The li .hthousp on ^., y'^%^"d its shape is continually or the water, .tandr:::: dt ^ ri^d'' ":'; "'"■'" - '- '-• Island wa, eonnected with the mai^ and bv ^ t /"'"'' "«" ""= east, but storms having breached tl^.tl^^ " °' "''"* '" ""' "arrow channel was for^ ' with I '"k "' '"''"'"''^'' ""'' " and i8 fringed with li^htiri. d """' """"'"- The W. ceasclcssl/invadcd ° "sa drift '''"», T"''*" """^^ '"'^"""'^^ "» swarm with merry life and the ,b ''"/""""" «l«' "'"'e beaches *c cottages and the 'I ow tt:, t '."oZ: ' "''n ""r ™- "«'■ »-' hotel, which was built bv H.lr ^7 '''"''''' °' » S^at summer world. The . hotel tuounded^i^d"'-''™'"'"' "™"'" "' «"« coasters and merrvgo-rouLs al h , r*"- ''"""°"'' '""' ""'''■ the summer evening Z,2 1 ? "'"' '" ''""' "' " """"Sh pass the uuremitlTferr" s ^ '*"" '"' '"^ *^ P^ "^ - ver,'::::^: ;!;xxt:: «;r- --. 0.1 he. siop. port Hills. The almost levele „ „ '°„f h T "' ""= '""■™- with many spire, and with the grec I, 1 of "" 7'' " '"■°'''" horse-chestnuts. All thro..»h t, , mnumerable elms and Jolieiou^ly shadowed ; ,,„ Ih TT'^I r""™" '"' "'""" "" streams in freely .Hro^gLthenaWb^che':! "'"'"^ "" ™"»'' 22 TORONTO. From the Don's mouth on the E. to the Humber on the W., a dis- tance of 8 miles, the city stretches an unbroken front along the rim of the lake. Between these limits is gathered a population of about 200,000 —a population which is increasing at a rate with which few other cities on the continent can compare. ^\ heady she begins to reach out beyond her containing streams. All Ontario and much of our Northwest, regions giowing rapidly in wealth and population, are tributary to her, and must continue to nourish her growth. No other city on the lakes with the exception of Chicago, has fairer prospects for the future than Toronto. The very name Toronto signifies " a place of meeting," a place where men are gathered together. The first mention of the name is in some French memoirs of 1680, where it is applied to the Portage from the number to Lake Siincoe. In the sheltered harbor at the Ontario end of the trail the French erected a fort, the remains of which .le yet to be seen in the exhibition grounds. To this post, at first cailled Fort ltouill6, the name Fort Toronto was afterward given. THb; HISTORY OF TORONTO. Ontario, as a separate province, is the creation of the United Empire Loyalists, and Toronto was the creation of (iovemor Simcoe, the first governor of the new province. These United Empire Loyalists, whose experiences and whose work in province-buildin,' we shall again refer to when writing of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, were inhabit- ants of the thirteen colonies to the south who remained loyal to the mother-country during the American Revolution. They were an ener- getic and fearless people, possessing fully the courage of their convic- tions, and not unnaturally the feeling between them and their insurgent fellow-countrymen was implacably bitter. When the independence of the Thirteen Colonies was acknowledged, their position was difficult in the extreme. They could not accept the new order, and to the new order they were hopelessly unacceptable. They had staked everything on the triumph of England, and to England they now looked fo.' help. They were given lands in Canada and Nova Scotia ; and their splendid energy and courage carried them through difficulties and hardships un- der which a weaker people would have succumbed. A very large pro- portion of them belonged to the educated and cultured classes. Their great exodus from under the shadow of the new flag took place in the years 1783 and 1784; but when the new province of Upper Canada TORONTO. 23 was organized under the wise supervision of Governor Simcoe, addi- tional parties flocked in. and in the four years from 1791 to 17i^5 their numbers increased in that province from 12,000 to 30,000 Prominent among the United Empire Loyalists were the Indians of the ZZ- tions, under their great and humane warrior-chieftain. Joseph Brant or Thayendanagea. These faithful allies were granted a fertile territory along the course of the Grand River. As we have already mentioned, Niagara-on-the-Lake was the first capita of Upper Canada. Gradually it was borne in upon the pro- vmcal authorities that a town like Niagara, within range of American guns, was ,11 adapted to be the seat of government. Thereupon the capital was shifted to the "Place of Meeting," across the la'ke^and the mfant executive felt more secure. The significant and musical name, however, was changed, and Toronto became York. What are significance and beauty when weighed in the balance against a compliment to the heir-apparent? This was in 1793; but though hearts of the inhabitants. The name of York was worn like an ill- fitting garment "Muddy York" it was called by derisive but not he'rr" Tfr- ''"" "''"' '^ ^''*' '''' ''''''^' '^'^ -to itself the title and the dignity of a city, the name of York, with its contume- lious epithet, was eagerly sloughed off, and the "Place of Meeting" re- sumed its ancient title. In 1794 there weio but 12 houses at Toronto and when the War of 1812 broke out tins provincial capital, now the second city in the Dominion, contained but 900 inhabitants who de*;' ""7^^ f 2 Toronto was twice captured by the Americans, who des royed the fortifications and sacked the town, after a struggle lasting from early morning to ^ndown, when the English general cons,dering the position untenable, abandoned i. when he found him-' self confronted with a vastly superior force. The Canadian militia who bore the brunt of the war, preferred to select some more advan tageous battle-ground than the exposed provincial capital. All through this war the chief honors, in the land battles, fell generally to the Canadian arms On the American side the war was strongly disap- proved of by the best men; its object being thus sarcastically charac- terized by Randolph of Virginia: "The people of Canada are fir to be seduced from their allegiance, and converted into traitors, as a pieparaion for making them good American citizens." The spirit with which the Canadians went into the contest is thus described b^ fr. 24 TORONTO. Colonel (J. T. DciiiHon : « I,, I8|2 '''•«»»"■<"• t(. liK'l.t, I..avi.,g Mh, „|.| „„.„, tho bov ovory ablchodiod iiuiii wont to tho tll(> ti(>l(|8. <) thiit fnnK I'f mij,'li(, tmvi'l It diiv' .•<, imd Mio women to till war wilhoui. nioctinf,' an able bodicl .V H join ncy in this province dm ing WW man, an they were nil on tho III 1SH7 01 ■t'linvd tho rebellion of William I nilled himself " Cliairmai. />/•<) A7«. of the r yon Mackenzie, who Staf.M»f r,,,u.r Canada." The foolish self-stvlod rovisional (lovcMiiment of tho what they called a Trovisidoal ara Jliver; but the rebel ren, ^'omel•y's Tavern," on Y ong(» St. its. With a force of about »{)() but when the "Men of (Jo,c" hands were seatt(«red after a short but si patriots established ■ -Kill on Navy Island in the Niag- was II place known as " .Mont- , u tew miles north of the city lim- men the rebels threatened Toronto; iiiiivcd, under (^)lonel McNab, the rebel took place the destruction of the st iiu'P strii{,nvle. Soon afterward This It 'p exploit has been thus described by Dr. I? Tho Provisional (Jovernment earner Caroline, already referred to. ryce ; in the Nii pira iJivcr, Mberty and K(pialit JlcNab, who held the' Canadian si •VcemlH'r 2 » by Captain Drcw.'u. N."" was now orj^'anized cm Navy Island no patriot (la,,, with twin stars and tile n.,>tto wa.s hoisted, and planted in the face of Ccdonel on I) The i lore. A daring' action was performed nsiirf,'ents had nuule use of a i)iie of McNab's eoi plies from tlie .Viiu-rican si ves.s.'l, the Caroline, in nmand for the nij^ht under tl of the fort !ie ver lore to Navy Island. Tl earrylnpf sup- le vessel lay moored ■y jiuns ..f Koit Schlusser ; indeed, the shadow enveliiped the Caroline. With 7 1 men in ail, wl iMpfnin boarded the ill fated ves.sel lo were armed with pistols, cuti / boats, carrying .some (50 lasses, and pikes, tho on account of the current, to br eiiptured her, but not be tl minn; over the Niaj^'ara Falls. Tl injj; her to the Canad ini; able, ian side, sent her bottom, !ind so Hrit in^^ couhl blot out the b lie vessel proved to be an American am was compels' h> disavow the seizure, but noth- nivery of tlu deed THE TOHONTO OF THE PRESENT " t s i„. , ' . 5 ri';;. d,r".',' '';"';■• '■''";" ^'"' "'■ ''■!'"»•■" ■''«""•« TORONTO. 25 oi«i. ™'i„.., , I 'r:;:;' ':'^,""f - "• " -«>■ '.-i, " lu.,„„K,.,„.„„» a,„l ...„,,,,,;,' " "',"." '"'""■ <■'»<''> »iA "■"".IvHul a..lm.vn„o,„ „ , , ■ ' *'"" '""'' "I"'" » P»«' <" 'i"""^.». i' > «:,":■:,:,::::;:,: ,;;.„"■•;;;■, '•-■';' "i,.!. a.. ,.„». f""" " -M irnii,,,,- „ir,.,. ,v,,.,. r„„i„, ,,":' "" "I"'" »«tT. y-l'ti"S. TI,o,, I„. ; » , ' ' ' ''." """'"'"• "-'"-"i-:. "n,l Wl,c.,.,.„„;„.,„|,';i,';,"'f„ '"'""" :'"•• """ "■'" tl.e llu,„l,er. '>nls that or.o Klizaboth EIH^ conv,Vt<wl / f > • *"'^" '■•'^- -n<len...a to stand In th^^iZ ^ ^^ IXl^^^:^ ""^-"-' -« cessive n,arkot.,lav8. The women of T " "" ^^'^ ™^- gaze of the world hut ut 7. "'" ''•■' ^'*'" ''*^''J »P to the -e <.^ the :;: ; r.: ;x : jztt'^ -- '''^' '''^'-^ Portance to Kin.. St is Vnnrp , " ^'"''''^^' ^'^^ '" ""■ Tl.e obj..e,„r .l,i/„; °„° rl'" ' """""•' '" »-■ "PP- lake,. «»J parsing ,„„lc,- ^UolZf,^r°-'"'' "' "■■""■""''"S '"'l'^' K™ ««. 4« ,„,,:. of , c\ , °4t"''""" 'r "' """"''■ *'»'■ "■« province, an,l „.» ,,,,« mv " J wi M ™'"' '"" '""'" ""-""'^ "^ "■» " ...agnilicont dist,,, "•' of 1^' ;"'' ''"^"'ads. Apropos of ,l,e ."ay be c,„„,ed fro ,1 oL '■ '""■'"«""''-' ""= f"""""'? anecdote ding. o„.kd .. ;,::.:„ 'o'". "7;™ ™'™:;'" »°* ^.^ d^. .sc.«d. - A story IS toid of a tourist, uewly 5f ' 1^! m I la" f i • ^ tem-i 26 TORONTO. I ; arnved at Vork, wishing to utilize a stroll before breakfast by maki,,.. n as be went along the whe,.eal>o..ts of a gentleman to whom he ha3 f the book-keeper, "Can you tell n.e where Mr. So-and-so lives « " along Y onge St. here In town." '' o,,, ,es," was the reply, when the address had been canced r.f " M,. s!,^ „« i i- ,r 25 miles np ! " ' ^^°-''"^-'« '"'«« «° ^onge St,, about At the eorner of King and Yonge Sts. throb, the heart of the eity * Irom King St. northward to the city limits Yonge St. is lined wi"th fine retail ostablishmonts. Fron, King St. S. to the water it is built skirt's b'"r''r '''fT''' This applies equally to Front St., whieh kuts the harbor. At the water-front of Yonge stands the Custon.- Ilouse a piece of elaborately decorated Italian architecture. Between *ront S . and the water to the W. of Yonge lies a low flat known as thefcspU. .ade. Here the various converging railways enter the city aiid here at the foot of York St., where in 1851 the (Lntess of m^ ued the first sod of the Ontario, Simeoe and Huron R.U., stands ttl ^ r"''' ^'"•"""'' '^'"" *« «'^« I"'^^^ ^« the splendid structures which are being erected in Queen's Park. Toronto is a city of churches, there being over 120 churches and chapels within its bor- ders This being the case, it goes without saying that Sunday is reli.^- lously observed as a day of rest. Except when the churches are dra^v- ing m or pouring forth their demurely pacing throngs, the citv seems Ih^anvcs oul a,id hu,k/rom Comer of King and Ymge SM, Dais Klat and ^fN^.^oHsTsT*!-' «» ^--. »°" -d Plea'mrnS-':"""""'' ^°"-"°'*°' ''°" '^''"'J. EsHngto,,, Mount OeorrSt:=6^"S«'' ""'*' ""'' ''"'*• «'"«« «<'»"'■ »'• Albans St., St. S...an7",r;;;-'sfS.f-'^'°°' ''■• '^"""'^'^ "'S" ^ark, Queen milt^"""'"''"^ ^'■' '"''"' ^'""'» "<""'. """'"oi- Bay and back-? TORONTO. 37 -except ., t,.o j:;,i: t,u:,?e "or;'"'^"'^ ^^ "'^ ''^^-"- James's Cathedral at n "" '■°''"^'' "^ ^'onf?^ is st ^;.nai,„ ,., „, r?,™' ;,,r,,;;i/:r :: >;^;;;f "t "'■-"'■ «- "■'- "!»■■ (Jothic. It«»nire so™ri„„ ,„ , ■' '"'°"" "» P<!'-P''iidiu- tio.. .he iofti,., o"l!,Z21t- «" , "" "■■ " "'"' °- "-I- the .„„er ,„ St. Jam " . cLldi " '*'" "' '''-'' "■ ^^'"'i" »o„ the fi« prize at tl,e Vienna Exhibition Th "' "'''"'' <l™l contains nmnn.nenl, to «o,no of fT' • ' '"""'""' "' "'" «'""'■ and to that ,..,.„n, oW " I :i ^ ^ ° I"" "if' »?'*l-i -n» „r Ontario, to., have Wen hate,- aw'r:;: "t:;"";!""? ""T '-'' ""'- are fine examples of the beat Htainnnr , °''"""'^ '''">"«' CatbeUral i, .he fonnl ch cTSr" "* "' **"'"*• ^'- "'"'""•' l»vin. remove,, H. th e ;e t ^"'^^^^^ "" '"""' ""' "" view „,„, be h„U or To-onl t::Z:..:;Z£: '"" ' ■""=""'«'™' .Mr:rtn"Lt;s j, :: -rt r';°"^ °' ^'- "-- «- 'i.h-ably managed Pnblie L b, arv »Th ' "'" "'" ''''^ "»"• ""' »"■ *or. thorongbfa e f; ;,: w\ 's. of T " 'T' °' ''"™""> *' ^ »« .he PoM.OfBee i, tbc Gr™d n r, ■""'"■ "^ ""''■' '° ""= W. of have moved t.,e:o!:\:;,r.X'z:;\;!r:r -^-r "'°^^ "ig capacity of 2 3(;o ' ^^^^ *''<^''^*'"e lias a seat- Jt=:rets!'-:^^^^^^^^ corner of Kino- and SiiTw-no n . ^ Andrew's, at the H.»,e,aha„dJe':;;d7„,„?z~:^^^^^^^^^ trance IS on Simcoe St imrin.. o • «»^" uesign. Ihemamen The garden, are t^:^ CJ^TZ^ ::':::' "T'^ "-''■ throngh them „s once Russell's fee. „ tbi h ■ ' """""^ used to row when the infant nnnr,., u '^ '■overnor Simcoe dining-room at Ooverl '^^ ^L L^ t*',,"'™'"""- '^'■" traits. Permission to v.- .1, •-'^'^^^•n« a fine collection of nor- A. a a 7u"b ' d Grvl' '"?";r ■""' '" ""'"-o f"-"-' Sronnds, are the fd Lpper Card" C n'"' k",'!-'" ""*' °' """^'^ -.™™ their nse.,„-a:"r,^sir:s':;::::'r:? , 28 TORONTO. a...ple and „a*„„e «.„„„. ,Vi„U, ^r^l .^ ^ LT„ h: On Queen Si., between Yonge and College Ave i, o..»„j. ,. .. tV scat of the Snporio,. C„„„1 „{ .„„ Prfvln e of ^e ° V ' battery of Russian cannon, spoils of Sobastopol. Tumin- to the left tb! caiTiase-wav skirta tiia ..a^ ^ . ^"'"'"o i" "le leit the f i: r„f .°:x:r:r z^:;:: ir t-t .■onto Globe. Thi, .tatue i. „ fl„e piece „, .Julp..., and «s dt ^ TORONTO. 29 fyuig proportions. In Convocation Hall was a line "srlTnl i , c, ■.epar.^ent of .he Don.ini^ZZ; L. C „" 1 ^^^T'-f" .-." No. f„. ,„.,„ .he U„ive,.«.y a,, .he ,« I™™,™", h ^l^" a very massive and handsome bioclc of «fn«n /- ""'^'" buihUngn, ..ve chamber a„a .he Dopa.::;^;:." rnl* IT-V^^^^^^^^ he lovely „.,ghborhoo,l. This is the School of Tech„.,,!4 T- ,1 head of the paik is „ «„. structure of brown Cr^i^vT , faced »ith rod brick. This is MeMaste, iZCoTZ^a^l U^' -.one Pile of K„„. Coliego, belo.^n.'^rC r rcL 'Z ^i^ c'hTct'"" "'•""'"'^ """^' ^'--^» I'nitorslty'ofrMeT. Tliough the grow.h of Toron.0 is ehicflv toward the w.„ ,. .u the handsomest residences are probably eas. of Y„„tT ""'■"'• Sherbonrne Sts., and on varions^eross-sl: etnnecX; ZJT'o T corner of Gerard and Sherbonrne ar. the HonrcS™ Card^el," whtei were opened by the Prince of Wales in I860 Tllv ' square of 10 acres, and were presented to the city b '.ho Hrr7- " Ala,. Entrance .o the grounds is free betwce^ ^i^tu^'f sTT and 6 p. M. On the west side of the gardens close to ri„„. i L. ».and.be Pavilion Music Hal, and .l,eCo„se,4. S. Tb pI il^i; T. „ ''°"""™' "I'Pcara upon its stage. The annual fes. vals of .he Philharmonic and Choral Societies 'arc hcluZl I J ' i] 80 THE MIIHKOKA DISTRICT. of the MHho.li.ts. r .X/us , 7'"'" .^''»'«P"''ta„ Chu.ch Ht.-- Al.hov .'iL'. Near M ! ""^ ''' '^"•' ^'"'^ "^ ^^'"■^'•" n- cathedra,, tho . .a ,?"'";? ''T'" ■^^'""'■^ «^- ^ichneP, gullcry (.f paintinpH and statues u .! T ■ "*' *'""''''"'^ " «"« a.-t. Entiancv to the art gull.rios of the V , '"^ '*"''' ""^ ""^'•^'"* days from y A. M. to r. .. mV. »•''''" '" ^'■'^ '" "'^"^'^■ well to visit th. 0x1 ih ioLoo'rsT; :;" "''-'''''' ■" -•* -•" ^^o Kin;^ St., West WhatlrT ! ^"'"'■'" '''''^''•'^*^ ^^ ^''ti^tH, J 4 -^I.tovi^sitth^o IS" " :^^^^^^^^^^ ^: "r-«^-^ '•". they Win' do wiil do wen to pay thL ^^^7:^ :;^:'^:'}^-'^^ ' and thoy bein, played at the Rosedale Uero J ( X I '"^"^"«' »-- - lacking „.ost of the defects of foot-l,al! huZ "' '' " =""'^ nent n.orit.s of that most man y spo t ''^ '77"'"'' "" *''^ ''''■'"^^^ ti.o n.ost ski„f„, Laerosse ^r of cCd' 7 '"'""' ^""'^ "^■ world; and Toronto bovs one nil t .1 "^"""^"-^'''^^ '« to say, of the in their hands. The Tor'on « 21 7r '"'' ''' ''""" "'^'^ *» " «tiek " ton Road. "*' ^'•^'■•"^" ^'''""'^^^ are situated on Kings- The Muskoka District. --; orM:t;ri:;:i^rx::;:rr^" ^^ ^'- ^^ ^-^^ ^-e the Ottawa River. Fa'res"are as f ol ^''"'''" '^''"'^'''' ^ay and -...■n, ...30, p, coe:;::: z^z: tTt "^"^^^'^ --^ turn, .6.20; Wagnetawan and retun ii 95 n"T" ^"^ ••«- turn, 16.95. \ o,,a,.f,.^ ^f ' ^^"^^ ' ^^'"'^ ^ Falls and re- villages „„d ^:mu,o/Cl Z,:^T, ""'"'""' " *'"^'' -'" merablo late, .„ of all ,-J, iTJ'r ^ """"'"■ ■">' '•»»"- ro.ls. All arc clear, deep and cl T '" '™""' ''"'™ '" "" '"«»v trout, black ba., a d pcrih „Me h '""'" "'"' '"■°'''' "''""• '""^ -..— ,.„e,„:dde;r,:;;:r^^^^ THK MlJfiKOKA DISTRIOT. 81 northern watorn may ho takc-n that Hnh ..f „...„,. ./.•„..., the '« Ti.or of «on..hi^ove.«ooh... Th. ..J ::;r;;.r :;.::;;:;: abo t the lovely waters of Lakes Si.nce, Spa.n.w, and Co.a^^ici „ laking the Northern and Xorthwestein R l< . '"^"^"'nf- Grand Tn.nk «ysten, we nkirt thj X^^ ';' v Z^llirT f ^ water-shed, where streams diverge towar.l I uL n ^ ' *'" from the hills the train winds thLl :T, 1 ti: ofT'"'"' with its sweet (,ld-country landsear.es PasHln. V ■ .7 "'""' of Newmarket, we eateh a "li .pse of H ^ ' ' '""""'^ *"^^" !>• u. L glimpse of the infant stream of Ilollmwi R.ver, which „, „t „w .ho „a,h of l,„n,.,„ „„„ 'll^"Zt ju.t made the portago fr„m Toronto, lly Holland KW.T.T ? Gee :mn Hay. The drowsy villajre of IInll>,n.i t „ 7- . b,.. „,a,.. »h.„, hero. ih.. da,^::' "^x a, tiiron:: n„«hc,.„ ,e...,.,,„.n.« pa»,od In h.avy »„,,on, ,h,;;„,h i. C '' ' : 1825 S,r John Kmnklin called at Holland Landin- on his fi„, „ .on overland to the north pole. „„ .he villa *;;c; Zyl Z"" huge anchor, which »a. hronght from the Rov,?! n„ ! , • .. " ...d hauled hither from the mu. bv Vj* of "„ 'J. f" "=""'• M Bradford, a li.tle farther down the river, there i., .ood trollin, for maskmonge, and .here are some fine ™ipe c;,vcrs in the nc "^ '„? hood. At Lefroy we get the first fflimose of T nh^ «.•« "^'=nDoi. .hect of water, 30 mile, long h, U bro^at 1^ !,. 1":^;: iTlt,? r„:rzvra:d ;:::;":': rr-*^^' ^^^^ o^^ *v. n 11- """ ^'"^e iNipissing, the Penetangn shene Urinph and the Colhngwood Braneh. Just N nf \li„«> i t '"". "^ "'^«"<'n. ;^; ii a^ha?mT nTrir'^fth'^rrr-^ '"'"• *'-"•»■ neighborhood and innnmerablc Z; d 'ZukCTT "l "" Ken.penfc,dt Ba, is a great .tnmer hotel arBirBat Toi n^l^ "I^ t' I'j 32 THE MU8K0KA DISTRICT. i I to Lake Simcoe by a channel called the Narrows I,V« .1, . in o„.,„.i„, ,.,„,. „„ ,, „wve"T„,:„ „. X ; :,,j"«''^'" --t"" »■"! I'uic, ainl t|,c waters of .1,,. u< "^"''^ "'"»' black ba ,, |,id,o,d tri , "'■'' •'"'■"""'"y »'"''l<"<l "ith ■ ■, |iii,i(cici, and saliiion-tioiit. At Hanin m, «.:„ i i a .etthMnent of OJibwa.y Indian., the last re nnants of .1 '' '' erful tribe that |,c.or)led the m1 m.nu / '7"^"**^"^ t''<? once pow- o..in.to the nun.L.' Vl^":;n;f Af O '^'"r ^"' '""^'^^■ if 1.0 prefers, take the stea.ner uZL. down " l l' '"""^* ""^' the train at Washn-,, Tin,., . *''*" '''^''' ''"^ ''^Join ..0 seven, ii:::"™,:':; .^ri^rrr:';,"""^' ''-- •" tin-ough wild ,.„,,i,|,, „„,, over SovorMF. ""' S™"'" grounds, ;.ip, for which i„di™ „„d ™„„e,'„,„; j'rj",, ir'/'r "•"■»•' *.i» down the LZlS^^^l'T^rTT^I canoe n,a, be obtained at Ran.a o,- O.^ilia, at co , „ a ont ;f: >" iKiiu, iiu at |,i(^f through f.rnnito Kr-»* 1. . emerges upon tlie hi^ldnnd, of «„ .t i . ,""'"« "otch it t-.'n.i(v cf [..lie Mr',, , ""»''"''»• A' «l'o southernmost cx- • -mill u i„,kc Musliolia, the largest of the series ,t,„„k .!.„ i town of «ravenhurst, ur, n.iles fron, w' V ?' vco- „ietures„uel,. situated on the ingh si Z" f an If In,:' .m;- N_. w rail „,, „„.,„,,,„„, .„„ Musi;:i;'ai«::'r,i ;";""- luvd. A side excursion up the S. branch of the Muskoka THE MU8K0KA DISTRICT. 33 .11 of which are fall of attrr,' '"f""""' ""I "=veral other villa-e, •ho lovelie. of .hose L Be^rma'": TlT """ *""*'■ ""-' hotel situated on To„der„ "TnT T' " ^ ' ^ ' '"'•«'' '"■■ "«""«« small islands called the "Kettle"'" ''"'"""''°"''{ W-'ite is a group „f bridge, the chief tow„°„f .he Mu"koW di , '" "'''«"'""-'>°»<' "' B™ce. k..ow„ a» High Fan, and the olat s' .h S' 'T' '"""^ ™'-«" on the lakes is Per, Carling, „here aU the » k """' °™"'" '"» .nd where Lakes Muskoka^ndrsseL 1 ; '?"'''''' """""-Se, lake Rosseaa has an e.treJe l™r„7"r.f "^ """'• great variety of ehanning land,care r,f , u""""' ""'' P™'™'" • thick with the lovelies, of °s.X t '°""""'" ''°'*'' " '» "«« inhabited, and the dweller, the^on matMn"""^. "' ""'' '"'"'' "-^ 'heir „me in boats, that secZ of.he f I '" '""'"^ "«' '"»« "' Venetia. Into the Lay car ?«>,,' : ""'"^ "" "PP^I"""" «* parable Shadow River, on wh^Z,™ ""; "''"" """ '»-"- suspended midway betwee wolve y worwTor " ""' """^ ^ « small stream stealing into Shador^ ver ^ „ '"rT """'"»• <>» » the Bridal. Veil Pall, . e.„.„- ™""^,™"''"°'ls 'he clear tinklins of 'ho headland of iW Vs NesTTT '"*"*^'' '"' ^'""' K-sea^ ' Lakes, Lake Joseph", w.f . ^ ,^^XZt 1 "' "*■' °' ""•■ "-'o"" «>ming into repuL as pos esZ ! b^H T ""'""'"■ ^'■"' " is Most tonrists „H| probabTy S.h.t fte'd-^"'' "■"" "» '^"«"- 'han of kind, for it wonid be ha.f J'; ZtoU:!" '"' °' '"'"" fairest. An advantage afforded bv ,11 ,t t l *''™ "''"'-''•' is the ;• rongh it .. ehar.i„:,y h". t" c „" f Ir ift' """ '""''' ""'^ "'^ 'he conveniences of civilized life in well L° 'k , '° "''''"' ™W all The traveler who wishes to visi, .f » """s'entations inns. Parry Sonnu win follow the r!iZ V ' '**«»"«'»»'»■' «ters and 'ake the stean.er wllT,o7lT. M '° ""*' ^°"^ "d "«e ;;_h Mic, and "^ahwaskesrure "o^rrerat't"^' ''''''•'• thence down the coast of Geominn R„ I ? "'^ '"«"*h, and Archipelago to histonY. Pen" r.«thf"t ^•^'''■^ ^^-«<^ -'^^ the the hfl.rho,. lie th-^ rpn • ^^/""^"'s'^ene, whore under thp w„tcr" of le th.reni«ius of four British -unboaN n. . - ^«t<'rfe of 3 o^nwoats. H^re is one of the 34 THK MUSKOKA DIHTUICT. finest stimnier resorts and hotels in Canada-" T^A. P.„.ta«^„Mm.." Iho first settlement of the Jesuits in Ontario was established in 1634 at Penetanguisl.enc, then called Ihonatiria, and in commemoration of this the Jesuits have built there one of the finest ecclesiastical struct- urcs on the conf.nent. Of the almost virf^Mn waters of the Maga- netawan, which one traverses on this trip, a writer in Forest and Farm speaks as follows : "If a man can stand outdoor life and live on venison trout bass pnrtndKcs, dud.s, pork, tea, a,.d cracke.s, there is no be?te'r nhice ^oco to .n Amenca that is as accessible. A man can ro there in J.dy lUust heptembcr or October, with con.fort, if he will go in thc",i.rht *wav and shoot deer and catch trout to his heart's content. J me to August for trout; a tcr that for deer. IkMuember the Mawawan f as arge as t^e Schuylkill at Philadelphia or consideraS^w de or deepe than the Hnrlcn. at High Bridge, and that the trout have an unlimited range and are scld,.m disturbed, so that they have a clmnce to S-ow Deer can be bagged in great nun.bers if you choose to do so! WUh a couple of good hounds n.agnificent sport could be had in the fall I have shot partridges ^ith n.y rifle from the canoe while traveling as UK.y wcTe strutting on the shore, and their drunnning was one of the peasantest every-day sounds. Do not try to go wit:hout some guide There are men who know the country, and they^hould be secured fo; If you get ,n there alone you will have little sport and much tSe." IJotween Parry Sound and the mouth of Moon River lie the desert waters of Crane and IJlackstone Lakes, favorite haunts of the maski- nonge. The capture of this splendid fish in these lakes is thus de- scribed by a writer in the Toledo Post : of 'y^^'^*'."'!;'.''^''^ of Crane and I]laekstone Lakes are capital specimens of the primitive wilderness, and long may they so continue' The few who have visited their teeming watcn-s have mostly been genuine S habitatillmr "u^nTT •'"'; 'l'" T^^' '''''' -nventio'naE a„d habitations. But 0,0 clearing broke the majestic sweep of the grand old forests »|t, in the sheltered bays the loons laughid undisturbed and the wild birds splashed in the -marshy edges or upo tl e andv shores with none to molest or make them afraid ^ bass or niXl-Pl"* lT '"'^^^^";«"y«' ""'^ took no account of either black ba.ss or picke el. It seems strange to talk of shaking off black bass an, making disrespectful remarks about these gamy gentry wlien hev "^Slo'me!'^''"^^ '"' ''"'' '"^ *"^'^ ''-'''' ^« "'-*' asrirreallj t« h'?^ ''""l' ?V '"5!''' """''f ^'"■*'' *« ^^t^"'' tJ'« maskinonge it is necessary to be careful lest the maskim.nge should catch him. The nativ" method of taking the maskinonge in the primeval waters of Canada is bv a small clothes- ine, Imulcl in by main strength when the fish bites but we proposed to troll, as should an angle.- with the rod. Ours wore THK MUHKOKA DISTRICT. 35 and finally a good gaff ' '^''- ^ ''1'"''" ^'^h double hooks '^-<^^^^^'d^'^^^^^^^ Lake the first morning' «o that, although plaSdTn o,ftS rtn itr-''^'"!?. '"^'^'^ «"'' '"^d^'' before f^jQ:^:^:^^^ ?r 's3eir^ '' '''•'' "^ "- -*-n> was ,r.ore like a crunch than a bite if toorT'"' "* '^''^ "P^"" ^^at ••O'l a turn that fixed the Unnt. i , ""'>' » ^^^^ond to give the I'aJ hung somethrn,' tircdXa'!? Th" 1 7 '^"^ *« ^''^'^"^^^ that j started. I do not kno; tLt L^^L g 7^^' ^^c line when the fish ^y rapidly from the reol as thorh of! u T^ ^''"' ^"* ^ ^^'^ the line The first run was a long one Kt tilt "" ^«"bmarine torpedo, stopped before the reel was bare Thi wJ"' '^"^*'''' '^"^ *hc fish h;i'l the boatman swing his craft aeroi fh ""^ opportunity, and I «:aek line, I turned hi herowaTtt' d "'"'"' '"^' '^^^^^ Tourists for the upper lakes take the train at 10 •?« . „ lu . Wednesdays, and Saturdays, for Owen Souml t' ' ^'*"'^''^'' Clyde-built steamers awaits f hi f . ' ^'^ ''"^ ^^ *he C. P. K.'s r^eorgian Bay, thTsrl^^ranr^^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^"^'^^^ ^ *^« Mke Superior. Here connection L 7 . '^'"' "^^ *^« head of going to'or coming from tTeTaeificT^^^^ T ''' ^^^'^--t^J train Nepigon and the other famous ! .. ' 'P''*^^'"'" '""'^^ ^^^ the di-n.bark. All Ue e route' "n'T^^ ""''*' °' ^^'^^ «"P^"- «ui^e-Book, Part itwesTerc^^^^^^^^^^^^ '''-'"'' '^ ^'^ ^-^dian From Toronto eastward. •I'rect route between Montreal and nn ^ \^^^^- ^his is the most -ntry than that traver^rby ^ G ^Tru JT ^f ^ "^^^ " lake and the St. Lawrence all fhn ..77 T ^■' '^'"''h skirts the HO). Or a tourist m! t -av" ^ t e^ P Vf T ^'^ 'l "'^"^^^^^ ^^^^^' ' of Quinte road to Killl I^L!' "'v *^ ^^:^^^^' ^^ there take th Bichcl ieu road to Kingston, whe .v^ .-w «.iugbion, Where connnot'np ;= mo^„ .,.;,. .. b.»,.,»hip Co^pan,., bo... He route w^:!,'!*' route we would recom- :\C> PROM TOItON'ro KA8TWAU!). iiuMui, howovor, i8 that by wUor, by the bouta of the Ontario and Ridioheu Niivipition Cmuinmy, whioh tmveiMc almost the whole length ot Lake Ontario, the fairy landse s of the Thon»an.l Islands, and the famed St. Lawrenee rapids (lure, $10, nuMvls an.l berths extra) At Sharbot Lake, on the C. V. !{., passengers for Kin^-ston take the King- 8ton and iVn.broke J{ailw«y, running direet to Kingston (see page 41) Arrived at Montn-al the tourist n)ay go to Ottawa by either of the railroads whieh eonneet the cities, the (^ma.lian Pacific and the (Canada Atlantic, and return by boat down the Ottawa Hiver. The tourist who elects to go to Ottawa by the C. ]\ R. will travel by one of the best-e(,uipped and most reliable railroads in tho world Mi« may take the train at the Union Station, or drive across the citv to tlu> North Toronto Depot. The first town of importance after leading Tcm.nt_o is Peterboro on the Otonabee Kiver, a thriving citv of about S»,(H)0 inhabitants. This is the birthplace of the famous " Peterboro » or '' Kicc Lake" can,.e; an.l tl;c tourist who loves fishing and canoeing will d„ well to linger at this p.,int. The shores of liice Lake have been made illustrious by the resi,lence of three of those Strirklands whose names are so well known in the world of letters-Colonel Strickland, and his sisters, Mrs. Moodie and Mrs. Traill. The countrv about is a tan-de of lakes and water-ways, a fisherman's paradise, and it all lies at tho foet of the skilltu! canocMst. liailway lines center at Teterboro from halt a dozen directions, and the Otonabee atfords an immense water- power which is utilized by many mills and factories. Among the man,.- facturcs of the city are lumber, Hour, cloth, agricultural implements nmclnnery and en-ines, pottery, and leather. The river is spanned by SIS bridges, and the juiblic buildings arc numerous and handsome Ihe best hotels arc the Oriental, Snowdon House, and Grand Central For 100 miles, between IVlerboro and Perth, the road runs throu-h a bi-oken country rich in iron, phosphate, asbestos, and other Aaluable minerals. At the town of Tweed we cross the Moira River whoso waters are freighted with logs from the lumber regions. At Shnrbot Lake, a famous resort for sportsmen, the Kingston and Pembroke I{ li IS crossed. Perth, with a population of 4,000, is a prosperous millin.^ town, with rich <piarries of building-stone and phosphates in the vicin ity. Twelve nules beyond Perth is Smith's Falls on the Rideau River a junction town with population of between 2,000 u.id 8,000 Here the mam hue between Toronto and M-ntreal is crossed by the line of the Ottawa and Brockville division, whose cars wo take at this uoint Thin. FROM TORONTO EASTWARD. 37 teen miles farther on, at (.^.rleton Dace Junction, wo first strike the man. ranscontinental lino of the C. P. it. JVon, ( uloton Plao to Ot awa is a d.Htance of 2H ,„i,os. Before entering the city t.^ Id f' loT T r' 1 '" '"'•^"*^ ^"«-« «--' -^ the 1111; look lown fron. the oar M-indows upon vast st etclu-s of lo4 whToh encliamod in the Ion" circuits if ti.,. "i „ , *= ' Tho (J...n.l T . u """"' *'''"^'^* '»*^« t''e water. fhe (..an,l Trunk Ity. i.et.oon Toronto and Montreal is set thick w h towns an<l ctios from start to fini.h, a„,l gives one a good da „f the gouornl prosj.ority of (Canada. About 23 miles from To nl.l.i road sl...t« a lov.y landlocked mere, on whici; ofol^TtoIdTr I by a growth ol flags and rushes that none knew of its existence save .andtttsetn gon. Here now stands the town of Pickering the shel e..d n.crc has hecon. Pickering Harbor, and the reed-grot'n ntra'ee has beenwdened and deepened to admit the traffic of the lak In ^e neighborhood of Pickering arc son.e fair pike and black bas,: waters Just beyond P.ckering is Whitl>y, the seat of the Ontario La lies' Co ' ege, whence a branch line runs north, past the town of Linds y to ul' Zi:;;7.;d : r"^^^"- ."""'""•^"" ^^^-^^ -- *•>« --^^^ «^ - ^i- a w il r^, ""f, T'T- '""' '^'" "^^ ^^^•-^•^'"« --"^1 the town arc well stocked with brook trout and sahnon trout, which take the fly freely from the middle of May to the end of June. Within easy eaoJ of Hahburton the hunter will find door, bear, moose, a d "1 2 Abt: 4 -I' "'' ^"'•'" "'"' ''''' '"^-^ '^ '--^^ - '^^ neighbor od About 4 mdes east of Whitby is tlio busy manufacturing town of shawa, wuh good fall duck.hooting in the neighborhood.' hI n old days, was the beginning of the portage from Ontario to slC Lake; and the name O.fuu.a sin^ply means the earrying-place' °' wriZ wK;^S:S';^;;;'":':'ir '"^^^'^ ^^'^^^^^ ^^^ -or. Algonquin era ti e of t o T. ^f tlements-those of the Iluron- oecupalion, ; Lose of the Mi J 'H'' ''n"-:"''"'"' '''«^« «^ the French the English occmntion t\TT^l''' ^^i'l'^'y ^^m^i^^t, md those of trace s.frvives o ' L ke Ontar o'b Jlrr"; '^""'^"•" T""^ '^"^ ^'^^ After alternate faXrrsanrZa^^^^^^ the name of the lake itself. St. Louis and lIK U^ llZ? r ' ^"^ rechri«tenod Lake ra.iui; but thotmndo like^Z; 1'"'! I' f ^^"^' """^ Lake Cata- jostic simplicMtv-ot- its anoitnt ? '"'^^ *^ H^' simph-city-the ma- hundred ind skt;^yel"r-t!;r;i.^;;^j,-,,^,^^^^ Ontario, ' the Great Lake.'" " ' *^°^e more .ft m as KK'OM TOIiONTO KAHTWAUf), Of thv Iro,iuoi,s .l,.mii.,iiloii ulsi. hut f.-w ii„oo« ivmHln-u fow nono. m.M n.nuo« liko Nia«nm ,uul Toromo. Tho nuv of «||,1,.„., wlu, lonlo.l It ovor Imir llio ooiiilmMH. whom, iilltaiu'o w«s v»^^,'v\^■ n.utfnl by Kinnoo ami K..Kl«,ul. wo,v. aftor all, i.nahlo lo MMiintain (lu-ir r,».(|„.|,i agninHt n.o ,l,.spiso.l Ojihwavs. Of ,|u.H... 11,0 Mlssissagas l„van,o spodallv umi.onms aii.i .t.w.vsHivo. s,. that tlioir tot,,,,, il». nano, was a faiuiU i««- l»i<'io^lvphon our loivst tivo.. rn.,„ ,|,o i„,^.i„„i„i, of tl.o I«>| n<M- tur.v. 0„o of tho oM..st of (J,voU lotfon.ls volalo.s tho war of iho omuos and pvK.nlos. Though tho foos of our uortlioru nanos woro not p.v-mlo,s iMit KJanls. t|„.v possossr.l not thooraft of (ho Ilitio an- oio.K. who livo.l hy (ho oooanshoro, Tho Mississajjas .s» n.uKlplJoil In (hoir nor(horn nosts thai prosonth. hv moro nun.bors. thoy ovo.>. whohno,i (ho liHMiuois. Most dosporalo n.^htinj? thoro wim. an.i tho Imttio tiohls wow ^>till olourl^v (raooahlo whon Knglish pionoor.s iU<st l>rt»Ko gronntl. Tho Mississaj-aj.. (houK'l> not on.lowo.l with oithor tho Mohawk vorvo vM- intolloot. woro no .ftoiv ,lostitu(.> of pootiy than ..f valor. I'aUo tho nun.osof son.o of thoir ohiofs. Ono ohhlV nan.o si-ni(io,l "Ho who n.akos f,H.(stop.M in tho sky " ; anotlior was Wawanosh, '• llo wlu) an.hlos tho wators." Tho Uov. Potor .louos «as, through his .nothor. dosoomlod f«tMn a t«.u«»us lino »>f pootio warriors; his grandfathor was Wanhuno " Tho Morning Light." On oooasion. tho Mis.issaga oould oon.o dow.i ti» pn»so. Sougtni divsorihos (ho olay lu.ttou. and s.iluuorgod hanks of (hat lako, whioh. taking a stoamor a( I'ort IVrrv. wo travorso on t)tir .>«nn.n»or oxoursion to Lindsay and Sturgoon l.ako. tM.omono aptly Uiunos tho lako whoso tlilo of silt s,)n>otiu,os ovon ivtanls (m.^ oanoo whon wo aro tishing or fowling. OnuMuoo, " tho wild pigoon," has givon its nanio not tMdy to Pigoott l.ako and its ohiof ai^uont, hut to (ho to^n whoiv Pigoou Civok lingoi>s on its oourso to tho lako. "On Kioo Lako, tho ohiof Imlian sottlonuM.t is lUawatlm nannd «»t'M- tho llo,vulos of Ojih«ay n.y.holo.^v. who.n tho .Vn" oa o has nnn,orta!.rod ;n Ins n.olodious t.^vhuios. At Hiawatha and' on Nug,»g l.sland vou n,av stdl hud, in tho ,»niinarv lan-ua-o of tho t»j>'>«ay, fragu.onts of tin.> in,ag,-ry and pioturo-falk. ofton in tho vorv o,>ls wluoh Long^;llow has so happily wovon into his poo.n. V,: tho s^vnorv ol (Ins I ,vnt Valloy ivpnnluoos that of tho Valo of Tawa- sontim Ho.v aro Mlu^ wild ri.v of tho rivor' and 'tho Indian villauV and tUo gixnos ot su»gu)g pn>o-t»vos- ov.>r siuhinu', ovor sin<'in.' ' \t KM>olon hails wo havo tho 'Laughing Wator.' and nut fa.- hoiow is N.ug^HM, Lako. tho ,vahn of tho ' Kin- of ^ishos.' Sturgoon of nor tontous stro aiv yot .not with, though" t-dli.j- son.owhaf short of tho FROM TORONTO KASTWARI). 89 ooiuprohoiiHivr llsh HiinK l)y Lon,,'r..llow, which Hwanowcd lliiiwatlm. otiiioc iinil all I ' " AiiH.!»K' »''•''*«• fon>Hts, too, (Iwolt m\vo Mi'n^\HM(rnm, that 'mjnhti. ONt of inu^'lcians/who. 'Kuar.io.l by fh*. I.Iadt pitch-water, Hcndstho fcvor rn.m the marshes.' 0„r fatluMs an.l Krandlathcrs knew this muKh-lHu (.Illy loo well ; IVIt hiiu, far olV, ati.l shu<.li at his .....uiiiLr. T U'V lounht him, not like Hiawatha will, jasp.-r hca.l.Ml arrows, hut with the woodman's axe. [,ike the Indian hero, our ph.necr was often wounded, weary, aiul desponding, with his mittens torn and tut- I-caving Oshnwa, we pass through nownumvillc, Newcastle, N.w- tonville, and rmch tho important town of I»orl Ilo|i« (chief hotels, .SY. A,rH-m»,v Hull, *1.M) f„ ^'2 ; and (><r;/',s, #|.ftO), picturesipiely situ- utcd in a deep ravine, and busy with a larg<. lako trallic. There urc good Imtels at this point, and within easy distance arc the waters of Kitv Lake, which swarm with maskinoiige, black bass, and f-rocn bass. On Uice l.nko tho Itest month for maskint.ngi' is June; for bass, from July to September. Soven miles beyond Port Mope is the university town of Cobourg, formerly the seat of Victoria ('olh>K», which is now umttlgan.ated with Toronto I'nivorsity. Fortunately for (\)bourg, it is something more than a university town. Cobourg niust rely hence- forth ontlivly on her manufactures and her trad(>, her car-wcirks and hor breweries. Rice Liiko may conveniently be reached from (\)bo»irg by the t^tmvdian Pacitie and Montreal H. R., or by stage to Gere's Landing. The next important p«)int after leaving (V.bourg is Trenton, »»n the river Trent. Here the <Jrand Trunk is crossed by tho lines of the Ontario tVntral, which runs down the beautiful peninsula of Trinec Kdward I'ounty to Picton. The Trent River is the outlet of Rice Lake, and empties into the Ray of (iuinti> at its head. Reyond Trenton lies the city of liolloville, beautiful in its sur- roundings and in its handsonu> and shaded stre.>ts. Relleville has a ju.pulation of about I'J.OOO, aiul is full of activity and enterprise. Its chief hotels are the /u/A- //e»,sr, itSl.r.O; Aiu,h.A,„n'H-a„,^\.hy)', and Vommn-aal, ^\. It has tine public buildings, aiul is the seat of Alex- andra (\>ll,.ge and of the Provincial Institution for Doaf-Mutes. The city was named in honor of Arabella, wife of (iovernor (Jore. It stands on the shores of the exipnsitc Ray of Quinte, whose waters teem with all iiclights for the fisherman, and wlioso changeful and delicious land- scapes will h)ng tielay the traveler. Th.e best way to vit^it Picton, at the extremity of Prince Edward 40 PKf>M TORONTO KAATWAKI). •■' 'he M, ,.i„, which „jr,r "•"'■''"••■'■" """ ■^">«»«lc Ut. lion l>..t»,.,.i, il,,.,,, „,,„, ,f , 'J"'""^""' « "i.y»tmo,„ i,„„ „i,„. "'"lo i» ,. ivmcr of ,h» (l„„r „' j ' """' V'""' """ "'" "V- D->,o. «~< boani, „„,,;.,:' ;',,t''";V''"™ »•■'"•"' "P i"'" plank, nmsin of ,!,„ ;,r™t B,a„t „„,| ,i„. '""'"""<.'''"'' »f "ic ln,t wiituiy, a <^n. cx.T<..„ilv of th,. Read, th.. hlTj , " "''' '" ""-' "•"«'- «».v, «. .h„ head of ,vh 1 '!, 'T:.."™" •"«""■" '» '""« l'i«o.. •1.0 peninsula ia an int..ro,ti,„ ..i, "'" '"l""'".''! «i.io of *•"•»." IV ..n„ ;;:'-;'' rT""",''',"""" •" "- "«•»••- «''...• "Loftv ridf-o, of .am, .1 7"-"' '" ^'"""■^'i"^ Can. -now. were o..i,.i:,all,„ It '''*■' ■"" ° "'*""" "^ »""« - on .h. adjaoone fa™. „. .ho Z'o I.^'^mTV'"" "" """"""•"■"'' •gen. in .ho „,„v,„,en, appoa,! "„ h° h ^^ " ■■™''- ''''"'•'"■'■' '«..gle..hosa„d„„d„,r,.ioli, „,aj' ,,,'"""''' """»■ "''W' ""• be found a short, distance do., '"' ''"'"■" '*''•'' ^o* "'"y «u« points Of th ta„r,;:r',r"''' ''"'■''™'"' "■»'''"• '•■■i- interesting. |, „„s ' ".hi """° '"»•'■. '"». »ig S,„dv Bay is n,o,. •ee« .be Kent, m;z'::~i;:;, T '"'"" ''"' ^^^' «« ^■■ -^^f"'4:r «:: '::;:;::"• .""■"■^, "■■""■' ■^"'"''- '^ "-■ "-^™' »r name is derived frnm ♦!.« ^i- • .V««-^,„.„«,/, „,|ncl, signifies "flonr" 1 k V ^^'^'^'^''^'^ga ^o^d - -P.nee.s .ade, .he",.,; i, t,, a^^r ^ITo^, iX KINGSTON. 41 KingRton. or .hit; :::";L:re;;!rr7r ,"°^ ""° •-» ^'- ---o .0 e».al,li,h a f„„ and t,,uH i^" . " <">™™or>, of New France, 1"8 .™.8 Where now g,„nd the 7a, * /.", .! ,, *'""™°" '"'^l'"-! the fort, which snoedilv ro«n „.,j .u '^'"■' ™nira»nd of nac, w.; .»»i,„ed o t ,e Z« '^^™''-««'" "i-"^'--, of fVonto. paned to ieove; .h r„ e to t, o "„,r7r"' "" ''• '^""« "- h«..ds of a traitor i„ Te,„, n Jl ,1 ° *''"""'' '""^ *•" '•y "-o vine. Fort Frontcnac waslhe *:' !! ,°T""' "' * "'■""'■ part of the French tow.rd ,T T " °' '«»''l>"y on the vengeance «p» New T 1 '""""■^''-h O^'Sh. down terrible pretext of a eonferelce rre^nr T"' °' '™'"'™» ""■'='». """^ loaded with chain™^' ::: ;t T "' '"'' """""^ """^ «- in the galleys. The retort ^fT 7 '""^ "" """"■ »"« "-eir live, JToneh .ettlement, t ,e c p"n« a d H 7T "' ""^ ""''""' »' '"" .1.0 .nidnigh. .nasJacre 1 r wZZ "' f " """"'^"''"' '°<' of De Oenonville had bm„„l„ v I "caknesa and treache.y 0....0 back and Jl'ttLr, r^'r''"^ «rait,, Frontenal «%>oar,of peace b 4n .het tZ ""'" J" '°™"'= '•°«' «»<' ™,"1. The fort was JpIrXXtj n', ^r r"' '" -f "^ J V i..^.aieet ill ivoK. There- i!i 42 KINGSTON. af or the place foil into forgotfuh.oHH, from which it did ,.ot emorffe ill the end of the Revolutio.mry War, wh.n a party of Unitcnl Empire Loyal.st.M chose the fair site for a settlement, and in their zeal Cata- r«(,.n bccan.e Kin^^.town, afterward shortened to Kingston. When the War of 1812 broke out, Kingston can.e into prou.inence as the stron-^. est Canadian post on the lake, the chief rival to the American strong, hold of Sackett's Harbor. Fort Henry was con.menced, and a f(.r- nndable battle-ship, the St. Lawrence, was built in the Kingston Dock- yard. So hard was it for the n.other-country to realize that any good thmg could come out of a colony, that this ship was built, at a cost of tf.()0,().)0, with tiu.bers sent out from England for the purpose. At this period the town was surrounded by a chain of block-houses connected by a picket stockade. These block-houses subsequently were supplanted by stone batteries and martello to—rs which how ever ineffective they might be against modern artillery, nevertheless a^ld greatly to the martial air of Kingston as seen from the water. \\hen Upper Cana<la was erected into a province, Governor Simcoe was sworn into office at Kingston, an<l from this point were issued writs for the convening of the first Provincial Parliament, which met however, as has been already stated, at Niagara. When Upper and Lower Canada were united in 1840, Kingston was made the seat of government, and the Legislature occ.pled the building now employed as the City Hospital. Only for tour years, however, was Kingston suf- fered to enjoy this proud distinction ; and in 1844 the departure of the Government and its officials left the "Limestone City" in a slough of commercial and social despond. Now, however, Kingston has entered anew upon an era of pros- perity. She is the outlet for the traffic of the Rideau Canal, and, which 18 vastir more important, for that of the Kingston and Pembroke R R which opens up a district of immense mineral wealth. She has become a great educational center. Here is Queen's University, which has be- eome, under Principal George M. Grant, one of th. most successful and well-conducted institutions of learning in Canada. Here also is the Ropal MiHtarn College, the West Point of Canada, where the cadets get a trammg the efficiency of which is well recognized in sister colonies and ,n the mother-country. Kingston is also the seat of the Royal Co ege of Physicians and Surgeons, and of the Women's Medical College, both of which are affiliated with Queen's University The buddings of "Queen's" are the chief architectural ornament of Kin^s- KINGSTON. 43 ton The individuality of Kingston i« thus effectively described by a diHtingnished Canadian writer : iHt's" e!il' '^E'ri^;!''''"/ 1 ""''^'^':^ '''••'*' ""* "nplcn«lng to the tour- ist8 e>o. Ihcro i.s the fort crowning the L'Jaoi.s Fiilf in fronf n I mitcu toi arti lory i.s ready to sweep t'le water. Ti,o oinbrasurfM .,f w/:? i"'i"';!r' ¥„!.'"■■ '"""""' r "'° -""'""^ ""«-;;", „ BH| or iiie r.uboi. Iho cannon controntH the loeoinotive • nml «f embh.m of our tin.e a solitary warder guards the de ay ng for? wime 1, loved'" Tho'r'^'"''' '-T-'''' '*"' ^"'^ '''' ■skilled workmen are employed The tower, with its conical red cap and circlin- wall of eonipact ball-proof masonry, looks well. It would ha 4 "c'ued th.! Iro,juo.8 It could have defied the raiders of 18 "2 SnsTmod e n artillery ,t ,8 as good as an argue fnm. Hard bri. the MUitarTvr lege .,th Its 100 on 20 red Wed, whiteheln.eted cadets. Where the ive-gK.en of Catara.jui (Veek blends with the blue of the bav still stand the old naval barracks, where Tom Rowling a. d N^d IJu'n in were won to toast 'sweethearts and wives.' A Httle up the creek is Barn.held Common, once gay with the pon,p and c rcumstance oJ glonous war, but now seldom marched ovel by\„yt InnT™ „ w '*[ than the villagers' geese. Frou, the common a causewav near v L^ a m,le long, extends across the creek to the 71V X pL Ka'k ^ 1 hanks to the gentlemen cadets and batterv-nien, the streets of Klnt 8ton stdl have a sprinkling of red, white, and blue.'' ^' Six miles up the placid windings of the Cataraqui stream we enter a deep gorge, whose . cky banks, almost overhanging, are richly clothed wuh vines. Here we meet the foamy rush of a little cascade and here ,s the entrance to the Rideau Canal, whose sedgy waters' the haunt of innumerable mallard and teal, afford the canoeist an en! chantmg path through the Rideau Lakes to Ottawa. On Long Island m one of these lakes, is erected a fine hotel called the Lake Rideau Fhk Vltib House. The tourist who is not in an inordinate hurry to reach Montreal mil take the steamer at Kingston if he has come thus far by rail • for the river trip between Kingston and the commercial metropolis of Canada IS one of the most attractive on the continent. As the steamer rounds Port Hill, and passes Cedar Island, we find ourselves ^airly in he channel ot the St. Lawrence, at this point about U miles ,n width If one wishes to "do " the Thousand Islands thoroughly, it is best to stop off at the village of Gananoque, around whose shores the islands appear to swarm. The name Ganan,>que signifies " rocks in deep water. The town stands on a small river of the same nnmP ;« wJj 44 THE TIIOUHANI) ISLANDS. supplied with l.otolB, and ha8 good innHkinongc and blaok-bnHs fishing in m neigliborhood. The Thousand iNlandn. The Thousand UlandH are really n.iiny more than a thoiiHand In number, there beiuK about 1,800 of them Iar^;e and wmall, in a stretch of about 40 milen. The Indians call the i . ^Mon Manatoana-" the (iar- den of the Great Spirit." The islands are all of that formation which the Rcolofriats call gray gneiss. Through the inn.nnerable labyrinths that divide them the current of the great river Hows with varying mpidity. In some of the channels it is a fc.aming torrent, while in others the gently- moving tide is as smooth as a sununer pool. The islands present the greatest variety of effect. Some arc high and precipitous, others barely lift their heads above the Mly-pa-is that encii^ cle them. Some are as naked as if their granite frames had just come from the primeval fires; others are topped with pine and fir, or softly rounded with the foUage of vines and shrubbery. Some are dotted with cottages, or the tents of camping parties. Several of the islets are built up with fantastic structures, pagodas, and fairy bridges, till they look as if they had just stepped off an old blue " willow; attern " F>late. Hither and thither among them dart the trim craft of the canoeists, for here it is they most do congregate ; and in many a sluggish eddy or sheltered bay may be seen the punt of him that 'lies in wait for maskinonge. The landscape is like Egypt's incomparable Queen, for "age can not wither it nor custom stale its infinite variety." With every change of sky and cloud the scene changes, and unexpected colors, lights, and shades descend upon the isles and water reaches. But not always were the Thousand Islands such a region of enchant- ment, o- else the eyes of the old French explorers were blinded by weari- ness after their struggles with the fierce rapids farther down the stream. In a report of an expedition against the Mohawks in 1665, M. de Cour- celles asserts that "they have nothing agreeable bevoud their multi- tude," and that tney "are only huge rocks rising out of the water, cov- ered merely by moss, or a few spruce or other stunted woo I, whose roots spring from the clefts of the rocks, which can supply no other aliment or moisture to these barren trees than what the rains furnish them." From this it would seem that the luxuiiant vegetation that now lends the islands so much of their charm was lacking to them two centuries ago. It is certain, however, that the tourist who passes has- li! 2 S til m to BO Tl Pc les Re iih Ka cet 8WI pos hoi anc low Pai the Ba the the out beg Bay Dr. the the This aboi nam exec Cmi laltei salm cock coun THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. 45 tily through the Thousand Islands will miss their chief beauties, ai.d may even find the very numbers of them monotonous. As might be expected, the scenery of the Thousand Islands is touched with the charm of many an old romance. They inspired the song of Tom Moore, and one of them is the scene of Cooper's story, The Pathfinder. Among their mazes a British ship, the Sir Robert Peel, was burned in 1838 by a band of American outlaws under the leadership of one " IJill Johnson," who aspired to establish a Canadian Republic. This romantic desperado was saved from the indignant clutches of the law by a picturesque and dauntless girl, his daughter Kate, who rowed him from one hiding-place to another as each in suc- cession grew too hot for him. On one of the largest of the islands, known as Wells's Island, is the swaiming summer resort of the Thousand Island Park, with its post-office, public buildings, and stoi. 8, and its water-side street of boat- houses. This is the famous camp-meeting ground of the Methodists, and here religion and relaxation are most alluringly combined. At the lower end of the island is the somewhat quieter resort of Westminster Park, also under religious control ; and directly opposite the island, on the American mainland, and not under religious control, is Alexandria Bay, the "Saratoga of the St. Lawrence." Hence, it may be seen that the Thousand Islands stand in little need of the romance of old, for the makers of romance are among them the summer long, and turn out their enchanting though transitory product in an abundance that beggars reckoning. On a promontory, near the landing at Alexandria Bay, stands the villa known as Bonnie Castle, the residence of the late Dr. J. G. Holland. After the steamer emerges from the clustering isles it swings up to the wharves of BrockviUe, the Thousand Island City. Brockville is the river terminus of the Ottawa and Brockville branch of the C. P. R. This beautiful little city, whose gilded towers and spires glitter fairly above the billows of foliage that screen its comely thoroughfares, was named after the hero of Qu(5enston Heights. Brockville is supplied with excellent hotels, such as the ^t. Lawrence Hall, Revere House, and Gra7id Central Hotel In the river, at this point, and in the neighboring lakes of Charleston and Ridout, there is good fishing for black bass", salmon trout, pickerel, pike, and maskinonge ; and duck, plover, wood' cock, snipe, and partridge are fairly abundant in the surroundincv country. ° 40 THE TllorsANI) IKI,ANf)H. I wolvo miles boyoiul Hr.K.lvvill,. stan.ls tl.o town „f VivmM, whence II bnii.eli li„e of the Canadian I'aeilie nins diieet to Ottawa. ()„ « point of land ahout a mile below l»ieHe<»tt Htands the historie "Wind- mill," a white HtoM.« tower pierced with loopholes, and now soivinK as .i liK'hthouse. In November, mi, the "Win.lmill" was the Heeneofa foolish but pathetie tragedy. It was seizc-d by a little band ,»f self- Htvled- Patriots "u„d..r the leadership of a I'olish exiU. named Von MiMltz. Mein- made the to.d of knav,.s ami a.lventuvers in safe refuire aeross the border, N'on Sludtz was deeeived into the belief that ('an- ada was -roanin^ nn.h-r an intol(«rabIe tyranny, and that ho was called t«» delner her fron, tlu' yoke. With his brave but lanu-ntably n.is- KuhUmI foIlow.Ms In. held the null f,u- souu- days „jf,unst the Canadian forces under Colonel Dundas. Duriufr .ho fij^l.t th.. An.oriean shore «»Pposite WHS crowded with spectators, who lent the insurKcnts the safe and cheap assistance of their sympathy. Compelled at length to sur- render at discretion, the unhappy Vou Shultz, with U others of the 110 prisoners, was tried by court-martial at F..it Henry and put to death (m the pillows. Helow Prescott the calm blue reaches (»f the river present little vari- oty till the <Jnl«ups Rnpids are reached. Here the awakening water writhes and foams, ami we feel a tremor in the timbers of our sturdy oratt; but the rapids are not violent, aiul merely serve as a foretaste of those to be encountered farther on. Parallel with the " (laloups " runs a small canal, at the h»wer end of which lies the thriving village of ( nrdimil. l>oon the spires of .Morrisbnrg rise above its embowering trees, and round a curve of the shore, between islands softly wooded with white birch, our steamer sweeps through the low, green, sin-ing waves of the l{apid du IMat. Two miles and a half below the villa-n' near a little promontory, the shore is broken bv an irregular ravine' The country all about is a vision of peace, of orchards and .p.iet home- stcails and meadows deep with grass, ami bits of wooiihuul spared dis- creetly by the axe. Vet the scene is one of heroic memories, and every Canadian heart thrills to look upon it. In the ravine, and ,.n the up- lands ab.»ut it, was fought the bravely contested battle of Chrysler's Farm, on November 11, 18l;{. ()„ the one side was the American in- vad.ng torcc. on the other a litt!e army of Cauad an volunteers with a handtui of Hritish regulars. The issue of the battle was long nncer- tani, but the Hnal result was a decisive victory for the Canadians. THE RAPIDH OF THE ST. LAWUKNCE. 47 The RnpidN of the St. Lawrence. From Cl.ryHlcM'H Kann onward we ,„hh a succcHHion of pretty vil. lagoB and b.ts of peaceful lan.lscape, till, Jn„t as the n.onotony of sweet- .u'HH .H beK.nn.ng to pall upon tl.e eye, ti.c current Muiekens and hi.h .-ocks app,..u- alouK tl.e shores. We are entering the splendid rapid of the LOHK S««,t by far the grandest, if not the nuL excitin, rapid of he ehan.. It ,s a novelty indeed to fin.l a large steau.er t<.ssed to and Iro hke a I.ttle eoekboat, and buffeted by huge billows whieh make !<"'• ,u,ver from sten, to stern. Other rapi.ls have swifter sweeps or sharper turns, but this boars away the pain. fnur. all in the si Jand glory of .ts waves. The roaring channel is divided by a somber and Inel ly wooded island. The northern passage is called Lost Channel a there .s no path th.ough its shouting mbble of high white waves' tha ehunber upon each other and seen, to race up-stream. The steamer dashes ...to the white and eme.ald tu....,oil of tl.e South Channel and drenched nth sp,.ay, plunges with a galloping motion down the Tong neh^u> t.ll .t ..ests .n s.nooth water under tl.e steep sides of the island Ol Ot. JiCglS. Iloab a»c.,.,„ii„„ the St. Lawrono. got a,-„„„,l tl,e Long S„„l, b, :;:":,'" "'■■"""" ''"'""• ■" '"" '""■'■'■ """ "' •"-•'■ '"">•'-"- busy n.anufacturing town of Co.-nwjill AtH.;.. -^ . . „ " v^oinwaii. At this point we pass nto the p.ov.„ee of Quebec, and at this point also the s/. Lawrence .e2 tc fom the boundary between Canada and the United States, for the di- vid.ng line recedes sharply to the eastwanl. The shores ;,f the river sp.-ead apa,.t to forn. Lake St. Francis, with the little town of Lancas- er on the left coast ami the settlements of Dundee and Fort Coving. nils ot tha U-auguay, on which tl.e eye rests with delight after the low TiT:; .;«;■"■ '" "^^ ^"'"'^' •" *""'^^' ^""^ '^^^^ ••- ^'- ^^t. t c-he d of Chateauguay, where De Salaber.y an.l his handful of r or force of American n.ilitia. At the foot of the lake is the .piaint Jrench Camuha.. village of Coteau du Lac, with its stragglin. IZl street us long b.-own wooden pier, its ohl-fashioned b^ats, "an ilie Awl; t?;;:"' ':: r* '^''"" ^""'•^" -^'''''^^ '^ ^'ory over t'he scene Awa> to the outh hes cotton-spinning ValleyHeld, at tl.e head of the Beauharnois Canal. When the lake is fairlv left bohmd the ^hor !' grow more abrupt, the current dips and begins to' dart' and twist- 48 THE RAPID8 OF THE 8T. LAWRENCE. and we plunge through the rapid of " The Cedars," where the rich foliage sweeps down to the flying waters. Then more quiet reaches are traversed, and we come to the beautiful " Cascades," where the clamoring waves flash high and thin among the rocky islets that break the channel. Ere the excitement of the descent has died away we come out on the broad breast of Lake St. Louis, where the St. Law- rence widens to give fitting reception to its mighty tributary the Ottawa. The waters of this great stream, drawn from its somber hills of pine and fir, are of a brown color that defines itself sharply against the clearer and bluer tide of the St. Lawrence. Away to the left is the village of St. Anne, made forever musical by the Canadian Boat Song of Tom Moore : Faintly as tolls the evening chime, Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time. Soon as the woods on the shore look dim, We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. Row, brothers, row ! the stream runs fast. The rapids are near, and the daylight's past I ■Why should we yet our sail unfurl ? There is not a breath the blue waves to curl. But when the wind blows off the shore. Oh ! sweetly we'll rest our weary oar. Blow, breezes, blow ! the stream runs fast. The rapids are near, and the daylight's past I Ottawa's tide ! this trembling moon Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; Oh, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs ! Blow, breezes, blow ! the stream runs fast. The rapids are near, and the daylight's past ! On the horizon ahead rises a bold, blue mass which we recognize as " the Mountain " of Montreal. Soon other purple masses em'erge to keep it company, the summits of Mounts Shefford, Belwil, and St. John, and we reach the Indian village of Caughnawaga, the home of the fa- mous Lacrosse-players. The steamer slows up to take aboard a pilot, and our hearts beat quicker as we realize that the great rapid of Lachine is at hand. This famous rapid is less impressive in its surroundings than the Long Sault ; it lacks the absolute beauty of the chiming and dancing " Cascades " ; but it is far more awe-inspiring than either. It makes one catch one's breath with a sense of imminent peril. The descent IS' OTTAWA. 49 has been thus vividly described : " Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye. Waves arc lashed into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by th^ submerged rocks, which they are dashed agamst m the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools a storm-lashcd sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublim'ity in a smgle rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks which, did your vessel but (ouch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear- did she ever diverge in the least from her coursc-if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid -she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute preci- pice of waters; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches are thrown high into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the scene' the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in J seco.d afterward you are floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of below the rapids.' " ^ Presently we pass the wooded shores of Nun's Island, and the stately city of Montreal lies before us. Ottawa. Toward dayeet, where the journeying sun grown old Hangs lowly westward darker now than gold, With the soft sun-touch of the yellowing hours Made lovelier, I see with dreaming eyes, Even as a dream out of a dream, arise The bell-tongued city with its glorious towers. A. Lampman. /7.«?***®J*>r'^^f r*?".^^ ''''*^'' ^^ 0"^^^ a^e the RmseV, Windsor ff^ouse 'and Grand llmon; rates from $2 to |4 a day. The clubs aJe the Rideau and West End. Chief restaurants : The B^gaCham Thf n I n ■ 5"^'*'^^ « L^i^»'ar>/ and Scmiii/ic SocieUj. Theatre • The Grand Opera-House. Horse-cars connect the city with towns across the nver (fare, 5c.). Population (estimated), 45,000 We will suppose that the tourist has taken the direct route from Toronto to Ottawa-that by the Canadian Pacific, already described If he has gone firs, to Montreal, he may go thence to OtUuva by the Canadian Pacific, the Canada Atlantic, or by boat up the Odaa.. River. We should advise the route up by rail, and the return hy boat, raking the Canadian Pacific, a number of picturesque places »£ 60 OTTAWA. are passed. From Ste. Theresa a branch line runs to the fishing re- sort of Lachute aux Iroquois. The first branch of the Ottawa is crossed at Ste. Anne's, once the home of the poet Moore. Ottawa, the capital of the federated provinces of Canada, is in the province of Ontario, on the south shore of the Ottawa River, 126 miles from its mouth. For picturesque grandeur the nite of Ottawa is second only to that of Quebec. At this point the great river roars down into the terrific caldron of Chaudihe Falk, to whose vindictive deity the Indians of old were wont to make propitiatory offerings of tobacco. At this point also the Ottawa is joined by its tributary, the Hideau River, which flows in over a fall of wonderful grace and beauty. The shifting, curtain-like folds of this cascade give the river its name of Rideau, or the " Curtain." Like Quebec, Ottawa consists of an Upper and a Lower Town. In the double city flows a double life— the life of a rich capital and the life of R rafting and milling center— the life of that society that clusters around iiie governinent and the life of the French-Canadian lumber- man. Ottawa is not only the seat of government but a hive of in- dustry as well. It is the city of laws and saws. Its Upper Town rings with the eloquence of our legislators ; its Lower with the shriek of our unremitting saw-mills. It is growing as no mere bureaucratic center can grow, and has a population of over 40,000, where, forty years ago, there were but 7,000 or 8,000 inhabitants. It is a city of deeps and heights, of sharp contrasts alike in its landscapes and its life ; and both are alike dominated by the truly splendid pile of the Parliament Build- ings, which imperially crown the loftiest point of the city. In the days of the " old regime," when the Ottawa River was the chief path of the fur-trade, on which New France subsisted, the place of portage around the falls of the Chaudi^re had not even a wigwam to mark it as the site of a future city. It was a place of horror and of lying-in-wait ; for here the Iroquois came to intercept the Algonquins of the north country, on their way to Quebec, with their canoe-loads of peltries. In 1693 so closely did the Iroquois bar the stream that a three-years' gathering of beaver-skins was held up at Michilitnackinac unable to make its market ; and it took Frontenac himself, the Deus ex machina of New France, to break the dread blockade. Most of the romantic history of Old Canada, however, wenf by the other way, and left the difficult passes of the Ottawa unhaloed, Not till 1800 did the spot where tiie Rideau spills its stream attract the regard of pioneers. Ol q; I I ^1 I c i s s 01 s e OTTAWA. 51 In that year one Philemon Wright, of Wob«rn, Massachusetts, led a httle colony to the spot, and founded a prosperous settlement, which is now the cty of IMl, on the Quebec side of the river, immed atel op ing el ffs, across the nver from Hull, arose the connnunity of B.to.n named for a colonel of the Koyal Engineers, who had charge o 1 J the scat of government, after having been made the shuttlecock of poht,c.ans and bandied between Niagara and Kingston and Toron o and Quebec and Montreal, was planted here by order of the Queen nd found a secure abiding-place. ' centu y Gothic, and are an admirable combination of simplicity, grace and strength. The material of which they are constructed is a eream.' t^e Tr^'"':'"' "^''""^ "' *^"^ S^«"^ -d- the touch of tune. The door and window arches are of red Potsdam sandstone with dressings of Ohio freestone. The great central block occupies a stone terrace with broad, sloping carriage approaches, and is sur nounted by orm th f T""l 'T'"' "' "''"^^ '''' ^^^*^^" ^"d ^-t^™ blocks form the two sides. In the central block are the two Houses of Parlia- ment, the Commons and the Senate. The side-blocks contain the offices of the varmus departments. Facing the Parliament square building of the Parlucmentar^ Library, its lofty dome supported by flying but resses of admirable design. From a number of points view the buildings "compose" in a way that gives the keene pleasure to the eye. The fii.t stone of the buildings was laid b the Prince of Wales m 1860, and in their present form they have' cost a out 15,000^000 The beautiful grounds of Parlian.ent H 1 , eaTed high above the river and commanding an unrivaled view, are laid out m broad walks, which form the favorite promenade of the citizens Ottawa contains other fine buildings such as the Post.Omce\nA the great Roman Catholic Caaedral in the Interesting French district of Sussex St. and its neighborhood, and some massive and m tn"h cen commercial buildings; but they are so overshadowed bv the noble struetures on Parliament Hill that one is apt to ignore Lm . side of the ample breadth of Cartier Square Is the fine stone On 52 OTTAWA. pile of the JVormal School, and not far nff *i,„ block of the Dn.// 8hr,l. " '"^'''"""' ''^ ^"^^^ tor !!'tl'?-,?""' ""* •"'''^""■^ "' '^' fiovemor-Genoral and the cen. tor of tho bnll,..nt .ocial life of Otta.a, stands about two milen out oi or .vc*^ McHb„rjh. It ,8 a most unpretentious and hap-ha/ard con and home-like place to live in. The season " at Ottawa is durin" gr.,«nds of liideau Hall bo™n,. ,1,. ,ce„c of ,„el, . tvpi.-I CanZ' nu.r,.,. ,„ak,ns .1,.. one .„,,. hardlv .-ealis. that the dL„eIr o 1" regal h„,|„t,, Itie, U not a Canadian, but a five-years' visitLt tZ oversea,. The ,l<a.i„g,,„„d and the Ion, .obog«an.„idc.:rt „ nZ w.thU„a,a'smanhe».„„dfai,e»t, and the vWtor, fro.n the mother country take very kindly t„ the exhilarating Canadian pastime, A ,,«« of snmmer-tobogganing, bnt vastly more thrilling and »Ith onnt. The sbdes are long, flat-bottoraed, sharply-sloping channels of mas„ve stonework and timber. These are built ,1 the pa ™To gn^a. logs whieh have been hewn squa,. in the woods, rdThieh would be damaged b, such merciless grinding and batterin- a^ he ordmary rough logs arc subjected to in their plunge 1"^ fa I, The squared logs are made up, for the descent, into "cribs '- of at u" 21. s .eks, exact y fitting the slides. A, these are but slightly fastened Ihe pace of the descent is eminently exciting. The experience of the i imce of Wales, Pr,„ee Arthur, the Orand Duke Alexis, and the :::::b:,tM:.'rrz:r'* ""-' ^'-----^«^ nr\uu'^''^ ^^ *''® ^^""^ ^^^ adventurous voyageurs hurrledlv emh«.k fhn feet ; the lad.es gather up their ga^ents, as the crib, now beginL^ to e 3 03 3 S m Ml W OTTAWA. 68 compliments tliia offort Kovor min/i V-;*^ •"> ! trom the Indies day's march. AnotheHntervirof "no. tJ n f T!'"' ^""^ f '" ^'''« .vet um>thcr. Aheacl therp i« « Jl / ' "'^ "«**'" '* ^""OP. and which shows the end of the dcscen T °^ 'n*^'* '"^ ^"'"^'^'l ^^t'^''. last wild dip, which sends fhoZV " ■*'" ''*' '""''' ""'^ ^^'^^ one have roacheS' the bo torn oL^^XS^'':' ^V'T' "^ '^'^ ^' wood, called the 'anion ' wl.sl ^ ^ **" * floatmp; platform of oms five.' We ha?e"rVtKliSer' '' '' "" "'""^''^^ ''^^^ ' ^"" f^^*'" rfJ'rr rr"*'.'',"*"' '"^"^ '^**^- '« crowdedabout cL«. rtj^>e Aa//«. This is the lumber region— a eifv nf ,looia k * . dea.« as are to be had in Wall Bt^^h: l' s ftll ^ 't t elu resh cut pine and fir, and the shop-windows are stocked with sw Id 2t: :;rbieT-'''^^^^^^^^ ^"^ .i^antidegb::: nl approach the water our ears tingle under the shrieking crescJo Z ch,n^nnen<io of the innumerable saws. The mills erowdlTf waTrcrlss every pom of vantage are thrust great embankments of stone and tim flour" ,7 7"" ""'^ ""^ '"'^''- «-'d- "- saw-millMhel Te" flour-mills and ce.nent-mills, and wool-mills ; and, on the other Weo? the cataract, reaching out from the Hull shore, a gi^anl str cture where matches are n.ade, and wooden-ware. Thl-ro, alC^ yet o m.l . The great river has been caught and put in harness. AportL of Its wa er is permitted to thunder over the falls, which form a .at onage. ihe rest of the current is forced to labor in the mills ere it may continue its jo„i.ey to the sea ; for a thousand sluices h^ve'be^n " 'I" ^^"'.'''" '""^^^^ "*''<=^' an*! dam bis streams And spht his currents." scriJab!:'!r;f '*'^^!T '' ^'""^^ ^"^ strident noises is inde- day m the yellow gloom, by night in the white alar, of "k. ....l.Z 54 OTTAWA TO MONTREAL. electnc lights, go on the rending and the biting of the saws. In the darlvsawdu.t flecked water about the foot of the dripping sh'des wal- ow the ro,.gh brown logs. Great chains and hooks descend, and the logs are grabbed and dragged up the slide into the dens where the rnynad teeth await them. What are known as the upright saws are ::;l^d':^^^*^*'v'^;r^^ ^^ ^^^^ - *^- cio.en,i„'a%on:bTn:tL called a 'gate" wh.eh keeps darting up and down in a terrible and |r.gant,c dance. Against their teeth the logs are driven ; steadily and .rres.st,bly the steel bites its loud way from end to end; and the logs >ass forth on the other side in the shape of yellow planks and boards. On every .,de, and of all sizes, hum the circulars, revolving so fast that they appear stationary and can not show their teeth. A log or nlank approaches the innocent-looking, hun.ming disk ; it touches, and there rises a soanng shriek which may quaver through the whole gamut The m.ber divjdes swiftly, as if it were some impalpable fabric of a dream and behmd the saw shoots up a curving yellow spray of sawdust. ' From Ottawa to Montreal. Every week-day morning, at 7.25, a steamer of the Ottawa River Navigation Company leaves Ottawa for Montreal, and makes the run .n about 10 hours. The scenery on this trip is strong and picturesque. The nver rolls its brown tide between the stern hills of the Lauren t.ans, over mad rapids, ana through wide, many-islanded reaches There •s no monotony on this trip. The chief traffic of the river is in lumber and we overtake and pass fleets of roomy barges piled high with the yellow deals and towed by gasping and laboring steam-tu4 A mile below Ottawa we run past the mouth of a griat river the (raHn.au. This stream, draining a vast extent of -ountry, discharges an immense volume of water into the Ottawa; but the last 7 miles of Its course are rendered unnavigable by a succession of fierce rapids A few miles below the Gatineay is the mouth of the Uevre, a much smaller stream, yet boasting a course of nearly 400 miles. This is the land where the canoeist, besides all the sport with rod and gun that his heart can wish, may conveniently taste the rapture of running rap- Ids in his frail craft. This is a very different experience from the descent m a great steamer, which lifts you so far above the waves that you fail to realize all their fury. Yet another experience is to make the descent of the rapids on a raft of logs, amid the oaths or pious h OTTAWA TO MONTREAL. 55 i h qacu ations of the P,e„ch tambomen. The men surge desperately on .he,r long sweeps, b« the unwieldy eraft appears to walW ta n.te" helplessness an^d the terrifie surges, and when the descent has bee^ a comphshed the traveler wonders how he came through alive. The i I :;:;'•;" '! ""■""'""'"■ °' ""^ """^ •-' *= o-"-'- OuisTte Ivrb TT" "'"' ""''""'' ■"" '«'™ "^^"""-^ '■"» «■> - quisite lyric by Mr. Lampman: BETWEEN THE RAPID^I. The point ie turned ; the twilight shadow i'lls The wheeling stream, the soft receding shore And on our ears from deep among the hills Breaks now the rapid's sudden quickening roar. Ah ! yet the same, or have they changed their face, The fair green fields, and can it still be seen The white log cottage near the mountain's base, So bright and quiet, so home-like and serene ? Ah, well I question ; for, as five years go How many blessings fall, and how much woe ! The shore, the fields, the cottage just the same. But how with them whose memory makes them sweet f Oh, If I called them, hailing name by name Would the same lips the same old shouts repeat ? Have the rough years, so big with death and ill Gone lightly by and left them smiling yet ? ' Wild black-eyed Jeanne whose tongue was never still, Old wrinkled Picaud, Pierre, and pale Lisette, The homely hearts that never cared to range While life-s wide fields were filled with rush and change. And where is Jacques and where is Verginie ^ I can not tell ; the fields are all a blur. The lowing cows, whose shapes I scarcely see. Oh, do they wait and do they call for her v ' And is she changed, or is her heart still clear As wind or morning, light as river-foam « Or have life's changes borne her far from here And far from rest, and far from help and home ? Ah, comrades, soft, and let us .eat awhile For arms grow tired with paddling many a mile. Blacker and loftier grow the woods, and hark t The freshening roar ! The chute is near us now. And dim the caflon grows, and inkv dark The water whispering from the b'ircuen prow i 'mi i OTTAWA TO MONTREAL. One long last look, and many a sad adieu, While eyes can see and heart can feel you yet, I leave sweet home and sweeter hearts to you, A prayer for Picaud, one for pale Lisette, A kiss for Pierre, my little Jacques, and thee, A sigh for Jeanne, a sob for Verginie. Oh, does she still remember ? Is the dream Now dead, or has she found another mate * So near, so dear ; and ah, so swift the stream I Even now perhaps it were not yet too late. But oh, what matter ? for before the night Has reached its middle we have far to go • Bend to your paddles, comrades ; see, the light Ebbs off apace ; we must not linger so Aye thus it is ! Heaven gleams and then is gone Once, twice it smiles, and still we wander on. The next point of interest below the mouth of the Lihre is the Chuteau c^Montelello, the home of the great French-Canadian Pa. mean This man, whom the stress of a patriotic struggle misled mto rebehon, was one of the ablest and most eloc,..t of'can: a's ml, . T"'^ '' '""='* ^""^ ""''' *"""^P'^^" by constitutional means and h.s name is held now in all reverence. The chateau in winch he spent his days after his recall from exile, is a pictn's^ue France '*"'*""' ""''""'' "' ''""' and savonng of OM he mouth of the mnouffe, the outlet of the enchanting mountain-girt lake Comandeau. This water, which teems with trout, is bes reached by a portage from Granville (the next place at which the steamer arnves) to the river Houffc, which must be ascended in canoes will well repay the tourist who turns aside for this trip At Grenville we leave the steamer and take the train for Carman a7ZJ g'-^t -M^iJ« known as the Carillon, Long SauU, and Chu/e aa Bondcau. These three rapids are further circumvented by three canals, used chiefly for the freight traffic. They were built by the Imperial Government for military purposes, for which it is to be lioped they may never be required. That which passes the Long Saul is known as the GrenviUe Canal, and was excavated for six mfles out o what IS mainly solid rock. The Pa,s of the Long Saull, on the western shore, is to Canadians 1/ Jl II si i 5l -4 . ***» OTTAWA TO MONTREAL. 57 holy ground, for there was enacted a deed of heroi8m than which the pases of history can show nono more magnificent. In 1660 the whole force of the Iroquois confederacy bent itself to the destruction of the French colonies of Villemarie and Quebec. The doom appeared in- evitable. But there were heroes of the ancient type in New France A young nobleman, the Sieur Danlac des Ormeaux, familiarly known as Bollard, gathered a band of six..en comrades, who devoted their lives with the most solemn ceremonial of the Church, to the task ol breaking th. attack of the invaders. They intrenched themselves at the Pass of the Long Sault. With them went some twoscore Huron allies all of whom but two chiefs deserted them when the enemy ap- peared. Hve hundred yelling savages, the best of all Indian warriors swarmed upon the frail barricade; and again and again they were beaten off with tremendous slaughter, till they drew back to await re- enforcements. For three days the handful of heroes held the post sleepless and parched with tenible thirst; and when the last man of them had struck his last blow, the Iroquois had no more stomach for the fight. Their losses had been so heavy that they had to give lip all tho,ight of attacking Villemarie, as Montreal was called ; and Daulac had saved New France. The story has been woven into a glow- Dollar'''' ^^ ^^''' ^"'^''■^"°'^' ""^«'- *he title of The Romance of At Crtrillon where we resume the steamer, the Ottawa ceases to be the boundary-lme between the two provinces, and from this point on we are m Quebec. Soon we enter the Lake of Tivo Mountains, an ir. regular sheet of water from 3 to 4 miles in width and about 24 miles ong. Into this lake flows the Rivihe d la Graisse, pr.st the prettv vil. age of R^ffaud. This neighborhood was the scene of many conflicts between the so-called "Patriots ''and the Loyalists in the difficulties of 1837^ Near Rigaud rises a hill called the Montaffne Stc. Maoda- faine. On the summit is a square field several acres in extent, whose surface IS covered with bowlders. These stones, by some strange fie.k of Nature, have been .et in long, orderly lines, so as to resemble a newly plowed neld, and the name of the place is called Fluie de Gue. rrt. .n tins mysterious spot one can hear distinctly underground mur- ^mr. m of flowing water ; but the digging of curious investigators has iaMou to reveal the cau=e of this phenomenon. Par down the lake is a charraing summer resort, the Indian village of Oka. Some of the Indians have been removed and settled in a new domain in the Mus. 58 OTTAWA TO MONTREAL. koka country There is now a monastery of Trappist monks at Oka to «1..e v,s.tors arc admitted and shown over'the estabHs men ' Zl^r7 ™"r'""' "'^"' «'^^ *''« ^"'^« '*« "'-e, the la g rtas called Valvar, by the pioneers of New Franee. (,„ the ummit o tl.e steep were seven chapels, memorials of the mystic eve o St John^ v..on ; and hither, on many a pious pilgHmage, came peop t she t :;?y"";^ T' "^^ '" ^^'^'^ ^^"^^ "'^^ ^^ey quitteTtle 1 of ^ 7 " "; "^^^^^^'^ ^^'^^^^ T- Mountains is th . d h^t ^T\ "'' ^' '"^ '^ «"^ '^^'^^^"^ «f the Si. Lawrence ep.tome of the p.ctures.iueness of the haLitants, as the French Cana dum country folks are called. At this point Ihe Ottawa HtshL" n .ghty current into three streams, the largest of which helps ftnish the e,p, , ^, ,, ^.Zo.e«, while the^wo smaller flow no^ of r^ava and Montreal Islands. At, St. Anne the steamer enters a Irt -nal of one lock to avoid a dangerous rapid. Here tleG and Trunk c;-es ^ .0 Montreal Man, by a splendili and maL^:;;^:^ "^ wh the .teamer passes with lowered funnel. 0. a point of the island. ^ ttle oc.oad we note the ruins of a castle built after a medi^-a pa tern as a defense against the Iroquois. There are two sucTcrtie Htandang c ose together, with a circular tower on the hill-ton Til ng over their approaches. Within the high walls of the cas leTwas" IZ:r' to shelter all the women and children of the ancient let- MontVal'isTVl 'I'T''"' '•' '^"" '' ^«^'"^^' «* -'^- f-- avoL don h. '''?^*'^ ^^"^' '^^^-h-'h the ZacMne Rapids are avo ded on the upward tr.p. Before the canal was built, Laclle was a. lace of g^-eat commercial importance; now it is chiefly a pLce of summer residence for citizens of Montreal. Its steep cables and !]d fashioned dormpp.win,!.... .,„„.i„ ._ , , .. ^ ^*^'^^ ^^^ ^Id- hicklj about ,. are tho™ of tl,c ,•■«. La Sallo. Its site was "awed b,,hoSul„ida„ Fathers to La Salle that he might estallh t "e a tomliud oatpost for the more effective defense o? the city La iTue named h,s settlement La Chine, thus en.bataing ,,is domi'nant d a IT fi,rr,i ^ -"""r' '° '"^ '»*» '"<■ ''""■^^ ^ «»>^ on"i,il ,/:,," '"''™"'™»' ""' 'he settlement „„ntin„ed to tlouush t,ll the dreadful ma :sacre of 1689, v,hich « referred to in our account of Kingston. The cause whieh leu to this catasflphe hasleen Oka, lent. was it of ■ St. ople the the nee, ! an ma- his lish of ort ink lev id. les ;h- as 3t- ra re IS >f II U •^i ill III PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 59 already related; the catastrophe itself has thus been described by a Canadian writer, Mr. C. V. Rogers : "Nearly two centuries ago, on the night of August 5, 1689. as the mhabuants of Laclune lay sleeping, amid a storm of hail upon the lake, which effectually disguised the noise of their landing, a force of many hundred warnors, armed and besmeared with war-paint, made a descen upon Lachine. Through the night they noiselessly s.mXled every building in the village. With" dawn the fearfuu4rXop awoke men, women and children to their doom of torture and death ,ih! .T '7 u ■"' ' \'-' '*V^''^*' ^" ^'^^ '^^''^y '"«'•". the horror-stricken inhabitants of Montreal could see from their fortifications the nameless cruelties which preceded the massacre. It is said the Iroquois indulged so freely in the hre-water of the Lachine merchants that, had the de- icndcrs of \ dlemarie been prompt to seize the favorable moment, the i7?tl ""■'!;' '"'?'", ''^''' ^^"'" slaughtered like swine. Paralyzed A^f S'h^Ti'iTK ^''^ ''^^ witnessed, the French let the occasion slip. At nightfall the savages withdrew to the mainland, not, however, with- out signifying by yells-repeated to the number of ninety-how manv rnliHZ'lJl T '"l'"^- ''''Tr ^^l?'"" *^" '•^'"P"''t« «f Villemarie and amid the blackened ruins ot Lachine the garrison watched the fires on the opposite shore kindled for what purposes of nameless cruelty thev knew too well. The fate of Lachine marks the lowest point fn the fortunes of ^ew France ; by what deeds of heroism they were retrieved 13 not the least glorious page in Canadian history." PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. Quebec, the senior province of the Canadian confederation, occu- ^pies the greater portion of the St. Lawrence Valley. It has an ex- treme length, E. and W., of 1,000 miles, and a great diversity of scenery and resources. For a long time it monopolized the name of Canada; and for a far longer period its history was practically the whole of Canadian history, save for what was being enacted in the narrower sphere of the Acadian Peninsula. The following extremely condensed abstract of the history of the province is taken from Dr. Stewart's article on Quebec in the Encyclopaedia Britannica : " Quebec was first visited by the French, under Jacques Cartier, in 1535, and a second time in 1536, though it is said that Sebastian Cabot discovered the country in 1497. The regular settlement of the province, however, was not made until 1608, when Samuel de Champ- lam landed at the site now occupied by Quebec City. Here he estab- lished military and trading posts, and it was not long before the new I; I la. 60 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. possession bocamo the seat of the Jesuit and R,5collet missions, which were zealously earned on under tl,c most trying ii-cumstanees for nearly a century and a half. The early settlers endured eountless hardships from the incursions of the Indians, and the frec.uent wars m winch they wero forced to engage with the English and Dutch. In 1759 »he Marqui. of Montcalm was defeated at Qucbe. l)y an Endish army under General Wolfe. A year later the French surrendered all tluju- important posts, and the colony ,,asscd under Englisli rule In _ m'i the Treaty of Paris was signed, by the torn>s of which, and the conditions laid down a few years later in the memorable Quebec Act ot 1774, the French were guaranteed by England their laws, language and religion. In 1791 the colony was divided into Upper and Lowe^ Canada; but in 1841, after a serL s of internal dissensions, includin.^ the rebellion of 1837, and several .olitical quarrels, the count,- was again umted. In 1867 the provinces of Old Canada, under the names ot Ontario and Quebec, were erected, with New Brunswick and Nova hcotia, into the Dominion of Canada." Under the indulgent protection of England, Quebec has grown and prospered, and deveoped a civilization unique in the modern world Ihe province is in many respects a piece of Old France. In its re- ligious homogeneity it is almost medieval; and along with this <roes a conservatism, as far as custom and tradition are concerned, which gives the lite of the habifant a marked individuality and local color. At the same time the French Canadian has grown up under th. responsibility of self-government and British institutions, to which he very readily a Japted himself, and which have given him a certain political alertness, y ividly conscious of his power in the confederation, he is not at all diffi- dent m the exercise of it ; but, underlying a good deal of self-assertive glorihcation of the illustrious race from which he is sprung there is a sound loyalty not only to the flag under whose shelter he has so pros- pored, but also to the young federation in which he plays so important a part. ' To the romancer and the student of character, the province of Quebec offers a field of almost unparalleled richness, which has as yet been but little worked. To the lover of outdoor sports it offers almost virgm woods and waters of unlimited possibilities. To the idle tourist who IS so unfortunate as not to be preoccupied by any hobby, it offers the attraction of novel scenes, unfamiliar customs, fresh experiences and an invigorating climate, ' MONTREAL. 61 JACQUES PARTIER. No flame of war wm he, no flower <>/ grace, No star of windom ; but a plain, bold man. More eurefiil of fhe end than of the plan No inynfory wan he afraid to face ; No Havaye Btrategy, no fiirions Htorm, No Btin-rs of climate, no iinthoiif,'iit disease. His master purpoHo would not bund to these. But saw, through all, aehievement'8 towering form. lie first beheld the gloomy Sagnenay, And Stadacona'H high, forbidding brow ; His ventiirouH vision, too, did first survey ' Fair Ilochelaga, but not fair as now. St. Malo holds his dust, the world his fame. But his strong, dauntless soul "tis ours to claim. Matthew Richky Knioht. JMontreal. Hotels, etc.— The loading hotels are the Windsor, on Dominion ^Z%\^T'T ^"'' ?" '^'- •^^'^'^ '^t- the Hahnoral on Notre hostdj; " ' "" '^"'^"^'^ '^''''''' '^'l"^^^^ ^''« f*-«"te id. Modes of Conve,iance.-YAoQiv\c and horse cars traverse the ci'v in every direction, and afford easy acoes.s to principal poi.Us Oarr a^res rci?^/"^£X;s^:::r'^^"-^'^"^^"««'^»^ -'->-« «^^^'^ _ One-horse Vehicles.— One or two persons, 15 minutes, 25 cents- SO mmutes 40 cents ; the first hour, 75 cent.s, and 60 cents or every ^ub sequent hour. Three or four persons, 40 cents for 15 m'nutjs 60 Xc^t^t^Lr-"^' '' ''' ''' '-' ^-^'-^ ^.centTrrr;^ Two-horse Vehicles.— One or two persons, 60 cents for 15 niinnt..« • 65 cents or 30 minutes, and $1 per hour. For three or four ^esonV 65 cents for 5 mmutes, 75 cents for 30 minutes, and $1.25 per ho ' DorSe;:^''*"^"''*'"' °" ^"'^^'"- "'^" ^""' -d «*• James o^" ¥vom Wind.sor Station the C. P. l{. express trains leave for Toronto Sherbrooke, St. John, N. B., Halifax, Ottawa, Detroil Chica-o S' Paul, Sau t Ste. Marie, Minneapolis, ^tc, Winkiperand Vanmive " 1 rom Balhonsze Station the trains leave for Winn pe? Vancouver In i the G. T. R all leave from the Bonaventnre Depot; as do also the trams for Ottawa boat at Lachine. Steamers r^ninj? down the St .Lawrence to Quebec and intermediate points, as well as for Toronto .;.'.*. %. .ci.;« IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 la K& 12.2 m Si I.I IS 11.8 1-25 1.4 1.6 •< 6" ► V] ^ ^1 %s ''^ ^/ r '# pVintnoranhir Sciences Corporation ^% m \ s m '\^ :\ ,v \ 'f^ % .V 4^\ '^\r^ c<^ I- 23 W ST MAIN STREET WEB TER.N.Y. 14580 (7»t) 872-4503 4f^ /j ^ <^\ <s 62 MONTREAL. gatlon Co'^'''' ^"""" ^'"^ "^"^""^ '^ '^' ^'^helicu and Ontario Navi- Population, with suburbs, 300,000. Montreal is a microcosm of Canada. Here is the Old Canada side bv8,demththeNew; here French Canada and English Canada come n.to c ose and perpetual contact, and yet nmintain their individuality Sne stands between French Quebec, 172 miles east, and English To- ronto, 338 miles west. With a quarter of a million inhabitants, an on- rivaled s.te at the head of ocean navigation, yet in the heart of the continent, with enormous wealth, and with all the resources of the Northwest seeking an outlet through her port, Montreal is the com- fTr T7 "' ''''''''' ""' ' '''' "^*^ *he securest possible future. She has a past also, heroic, romantic, and brilliant beyond that of most cities of tins New World, and a present in which ail Ca.ada akes just pride. To Montreal the trade of the Northwest has been tributary from its beginning. First, it was the fur-trade, whose mer- chant-princes, building their homes on Beaver Hall Hill, gave Canada Its fit emblem, the wise and capable beaver. Then came the lumber grain, and cattle trades, all pouring their wealth into the city's lap • and now the great transcontinental railway, the Canadian Pacific, with Its headquarters at Montreal, reaches out for the trade of "the cor geous Ea.t," and realizes the dream of La Salle and those old explorers' who shattered their forces in the effort to find a route to Cathav nv. K 'Xl^^'' ^'' "*•"" ^'""^ *^' '"«""*''^'" ^^-'^h stands guard over her. The peculiar form of the name, " Mont Real," seems to point to Portuguese influences somewhere in the dawn of her historv In a succession of terraces the streets climb the mountain, all the summit of which IS reserved to the citizens as a matchless park. Business has gradually worked itself back, street by street, from the water-front, till now the once aristocratic exclusion of St. Catherine St is a main artery of trade. ^ MONTREAL IN HISTORY. In spite of the strongly differentiated elements of which Montreal's population IS composed-English Protestant and French Roman Catho- he-race and religious antagonisms are kept subdued by much mutual good-will and forbearance. For some time after the conquest, Protes- tants were allowed the use of a Roman church after the morning mass Montreal. 63 Every Sunda, afternoon, from 1766 to 1786, a Church of England con gregatjon occupied fte Church of .he R^colIcK The sane prtvC was afterward extended to the Presbyterian,, up .„ 1792, „L "Z denommatron .noved to a church of its own. At this time his eUeS ngly Protestant congrejatiou, ,0 show its good-will .nd sense of g7a7 for the h^gh altar and wine for the mass. A few Tears ago the plclur esqr,e and historic Bonsecours Church was about'to be Lrn do™ t^" make room for a railway station, but a few Protestants, holdil n honor the assocations of the building and the memory of the de xttr::;:°:r "■ ^"' - '*'-- --■ - ■-- "» ton'lr '" "I" ""°"'° °* "'' "■" ^'^'"' Carter, with a forty. k" ?,„:"'' '™ °P'" ''°»"' «<^"1»1 'he St. Lawrence to seek the c,ty Hochelaga, of which the Indians had told him at Quebec On hundreds of Indians crowded about them in eager delight and wel corned them with gifts of flsh and maize. The Indian city laysomj way back from the water, at the foot of the mountain Arlnnt rustled fruitful eorn.«eUIs, and around the corn.flelds rose the black masses of the ancient woods. The town was fenced with a trip e r' w of heavy pahsades formed of the trunks of trees. In the c^nl „" the town was an open square, wherein Cartier was received as a demi god and besought to heal the sick with his touch. This he lid „„ afte "this' eouid bestow gifts, which is a seml-divine functTon and afte th,s ceremony he ascended the mountain, followed by a troLn of adonng natives. When the full m,agni8cence „f this unrivaledZid z::" K tai " M't'r-r^ •"'"■ "^ -^^^ ""-^'^ ^-ve thrni re- name of Royal. Not till seventy years after Carticr's visit did Euro pean eyes again behold the site of Montreal. Then Champlain u«lT took the work that Oartier had begun. But he found no town ; Hochelaga. There had been war among the tribes, the maile fields had been laid waste, and the city wiped out by fire. The sto y <rf ts destruction was detailed .0 Ch.mplain by two oid Indians whTgt d^' Hurons and Senecas lived in peace and friendship together at Il«,he quairel, till for some reason, a Seneca chief refused his son permission .0 marry a Seneca maiden. Enraged at the action of the stem" 64 MONTREAL. I I the lady refused all offers of marriage, and declared she would only wed the warrior who should slay the chief who had interfered with her happiness. A young Wyandot, smitten by her charms, attacked and killed the old chief and received the coveted reward. The Senecas, however, adopted the cause of their chief, and a terrible fratricidal war' spread desolation throughout the Huron country, nor did it cease till the Iroquois had completely broken up and almost exterminated the Hurons." In 1611, having founded Quebec, Champlain selected the site for a trading-post at Montreal. It was on a small stream which enters the St. Lawrence where the Custom-House now stands. He called the spot Place Royale. Though coming after Cartier, Champlain is rightly called the father of Canada. Parkman says of him " Of the pioneers of the North American forests, his name stands foremost on the list. It was he who struck the deepest and foremost stroke into the heart of their pristine barbarism. At Chantilly, at Fontainebleau, at Paris, in the cabinets of princes and of royalty itself, mingling with the proud vanities of the court; then lost from sight in the depths of Canada, the ccmpanion of savages, sharer of their toils, privations, and battles, more hardy, patient, and bold than they; such, for successive years, were the alternations of this man's life." On the 14th of October, 1641, Montreal was founded by Maison- neuve, for the Company of Montreal, who had obtained a cession of the whole island. In the following spring the city was consecrated, under the name of Ville-Marie. With the expedition of city builders, numbering 57, went one Mile. Jeanne Mance, of unfading memory' carrying with her, to assist in the founding of the city, a sum that would be equivalent now to a round quarter of a million. This was the donation of a wealthy widow in France, Madame de Bouillon. Xot till 1643 did the Iroquois learn of this nev^ settlement; but then, and for half a century thereafter, the city found itself engaged in an almost in- cessant struggle for its existence. On what is now known as the Place d'Armes, Maisonneuve had a hand-to-hand contest with the savages. All through this terrible half-century of trial the garrison of ViUe-Marie consisted of neve.- more than 50 men. In 1668 ihe rights of the Com- pany of Montreal were purchased by the Seminary of St. Sulpice, which still holds certain seignorial rights over the island. In 1665 the Mar- quis de Tracy arrived on the scene with a portion of the famous Carlgnan Regiment, and broke the power of the Mohawks. By 1672 the population of the city had increased to 1,520, and suburbs began CollegM, HmpIUU, ete. Mo GUI CDitfnitj, E 2 Redpath Muaeum, D 2 Montreftl College, C 1 Higb School (Pro.), X> 2 Viotorl* Ho«pltt1, E i General Hospital, E 4 WeMenino«plUl,B2 Hotel Di(U, F 3 Grey Nunnery, C 3 Notre Dame Hoepital, E 6 HouM of BeAige (Pro,), E S «" «" CharchM. Rohan Catiiouc. 40, Hotra Dame de Lourdei, F i 41. Jciuit'i, £ 8 <a. Bt. Peter'i Cathedral, D 3 i% Notre Dame, D 4 44.8t. Jamel',F4 46. Bt. Patnek'i Cathedral, D .1 EriKOPAU 48. Chrlit Church Cathedral, D 3 4T. Bt. George'i, D 8 4S. Trinity, E 4 40. Grace, B 4 HimoDirr. 10, St. Juie8',D 3 M. BUCharlcf*. E3 62. Weft End, B 3 FHEtBYTtaiaM. 63. St. Andrew's, D 8 64. St. Paul'», D 3 66. Ameriean, C 8 BaniiT. 60. French, E 3 67. OUret, C 3 CoNasiOAnoiiai. 68. CalTary,C3 69. Emmanuel, D 3 SYNAOOaOTf. (SO. Qerraaa and FolUh, D 3 61. Bpaislah and Portugueae, D 3 ■Uecllaneoni. 92. Cu»tom Examlnere' Warehouie, D 63. Harbor Office, D 4 64. Montreal Jail, Q 6 "•v. A W ^^.^» x.a iionian lias loft us an amusing account of thereon- signment of prospective bricies which were sent out in 1684; <' After Hallway nrpatK. I. Dtlhouilt Bquuc, C. P. Rj.DE 3. WlndurBt., C. P. P.j.,C3 3. llonftTcaturCi a.T.Ry„C3 HotAlt. 4, Balmenl. D 4 r>, Exohan;^, D & U. St. Lawrence Hall, D 4 7. Wlndnr, D 3 Theatm, etc. 8. Aotdemy of Muaic, D 3 9. Art Oallerj, D 3 10. Cjclorama, E 3 II. Royal theatre, E 4 12. Queen'a Theatre, D 3 13, Bobmer Park, F 5 11. Victoria Skating Rlok, D S I'ublle liiilidlnip, etc. CIlj Hall, E 4 Court BouM, E 4 Poet Offloe, D 4 Cuitom Itoiue, I> 4 Board ofTraJo, D 4 Fnucr loatltate, D 3 Dink of Hoatreal, F. 4 Merchant* Dank, D 4 Y, M. C. A, BuiUlus, D S NaL ni.1t. Society's Mmeum, D S ArchbUhop'a Palace, D 3 Drill Hall, E 4 Victoria Araory, D 3 Cr7.UlRiiik.C3 Cmontre ; f- ! :i 72 the population of the city had increased to 1,620, and suburbs 'began MONTKEAt.. 65 .0 appear „u.„d. the w.ll,. Bu,, .h„„gh the Moh.»k» had been oruAcd war „, «ill the heritage of .„i, cltj, „h„« foundatl lid bee,, „„der . e a„.pice, of a religion of peace. I„ ,690 . li.Ta™' of 20n Ipench and Indians made an exp^niition from Montreal on,„Z shoe, ,„„,l,wa,J through the wilder„e,«, and laid waste w.h flreTnd s>vord the Dutch settlement at Schencetady. The retort of the t*h eolomes was an expedition in force under Governor Winthrop and f „' fcehuyler, wh.ch advanced on Montreal by way of Lake cZml! wh e . fleet under Sir William Phipps was sen[ a^ « ^..tbeT' 2 ". those days the star of New France was in the Lendan. and b""h forces were triumphantly repulsed. After the victory of Wolfe on the Plains of Abraham Montreal was he spot in which the power of Franee in America ml "7 as •and. About its walls the armies of England closed in swift l„d .Ub''2mofl<X"""""J"°' Mependenee Colonel Ethan Allen, mlh 200 of his "Green Mountain Boys," advanced to the attack of Montreal, but was defeated and taken prisoner by Governor ciriif Later came Montgomery, and forced the cit, to capitul.Te Jkn "i was taken possession of in the name of the Continental Cong^^s" Id Bemamm Franklin came north and endeavored to persuadele Can" d.ans to o„,n m the rebellion, m this attempt he failed sirallv but' he left bel^d him a memorial of his presence by establistol? 'ets paper. Ttas journal, the Gazette, which enjoys ,„ this da^ I prl perous .x,s.ence, is now marked by a sturdy liyalty which be 10'™ e" aid Mon.1.1 °' """'B'^'-J' « Q-'b^". the American forces evaeu. SostiffT ' """'■'"''"■■'« '«- "or streets known the tread of A quaint episode in the early history of Montreal is connected with 1 hlT" 't"™' '"™''^ ■"''■"'°-''- ■"■- -t-aTwhcn tl ■me had expired, were disbanded and settled in Canada. In embrae ng a farmer's life they found themselves in need of many thinl ot' f onnerly deemed essential. Above all, they needed wive, if^r w^a • selected m France and shipped to Canada to supply this lon"-felt want. Baixin La Hontan has left us an amusing alunt of he'con signment of ppective brides which were senUu, in" W4 ""After' ■•I ee MONTR KAL. ( i if the reduction of these troops many vessels loaded with girls were sent out under the direction of some old beginners, who divided them into three classes. These damsels were, so to speak, piled up, the one on the other, in three different chambers, where the husbands chose their wives, in the same manner as the butcher goes to choose his sheep in the nndst of the flock. There was material to content the fantastical m the diversity of girls in these three scraglloi— for there vcre to be seen there tail and short, fair and brown, lean and fat ; in short every one found a shoe to fit his foot. At the end of fifteen days not one remained. 1 urn told that the fattest were the soonest carried off be- cause it was imagined that, being less active, they would have more trouble to leave theii housekeeping, and would better resist the cold of tne winter ;_ but many people who went on this principle were taken in by It. . . . Those who desired to marry addressed themselves to the directresses, to whom they were bound to declare their property and faculties before choosing from these three classes her whom they found to their taste. The marriage was concluded on the spot by the aid of the priest and the notary, and the next day the Governor caused to be distributed to the married a bull, a cow, a hog, a sow, a cock, a hen, two barrels of salt meat, eleven crowns, and certain acres." POINTS OF INTEREST. The tourist visiting Montreal will probably go first to that famous palace hotel, the Wimkor, which is one of the finest hotels on the con- tinent. The Windsor is, moreover, one of the centers of Montreal life and its rotunda is the great trysting-place for Montreal's inhabitants' Before undertaking to " do " the city one should view it as a whole from the top of the mountain, and so possess one's self of the " lay " of the streets and chief points of interest, and equip one's self with a proper realization of the magnificence of the city's island throne Gaining the summit by beautifully winding drives, or more directly by what seems an endless stairway, we stand on what was once an active volcano. Far below, between the mountain and the river, lies spread out the broad confusion of the city roofs and streets and towers, fringed along the shining water-limits with the masts and funnels of its ship, ping. Beyond the water lie great breadths of flat country, bounded on the far horizon by the twin mountains of St. Hilaire. In an- other direction we see a silent city clinging to the steep— the ceme- teries of Cdtcdes-Kciges and Mourd Royal. Away to the westward MONTREAL. 67 over Aun'« hl.nd the surges of iMchim are flittering in the 8un StraigJ,t across the river, almost in the center of the panorama, runs the famous Victoria Bridge, regarded at the time of its con- struet.on as the eighth wonder of the world. Some distance to tho left St. Ihhnh Island divides the giant strcan. ; and in the middle distance, do.ninating the roofs of the city, rise the n.ajestic twin towers of Notre Dame. On the other side of the mount, 'n, fenced l».V the reaches of Back River, lie the opulent villages, fanns and orchards which Imve earned for Montreal Island the title of the (;ar. den of Canada. Descending the mountain and re-entering the mazes of the streets we make our way first to the historic Place d^Armes This was f ,c first burying-ground of the pioneers. Now it is a railed space of trees, cool with the spray of its fountain and with the shade of the stately buddmgs surrounding it. On the south side stands the parish church of Notre Dame, one of the largest ecclesiastical structures on the continent. It accommodates 10,000 people easily, and has been i<nown to contain 15,000 within its walls. Its towers are 22V ft hi-h It has a magnificent chime of 11 bells, of which one, called the G^os liourdon, IS the largest in America, and weighs 29,400 pounds From the summit of the tower which contains ti.e bells a splendid view is obtained. The entire cost of the Church of Notre Dame was in the neighborhood of $6,000,000. Alongside of Notre Dame stands the ancient Seminar^/ of St Sul. pice built more than two centuries ago, its ma.ssive wall, pierced with loopholes, looking grimly down on the thronged and peaceful street. I he seminary shares with the Bank of Montreal, whose pillared abode rises on the opposite side of the square, the distinction of bein^ the wealihiest institution in America. In the immediate vicinity of the riace d Armes throng the splendid structures of the Post-Office the Jacqi^s-Cartier Bank, the Banque Nationale, and the buildings of the New York Life and other insurance companies. As far as situation goes, and perhaps in other respects as well the finest square in the city is Dominion Square. It is high and spacious, and about it gather several fine churches ; the vast pile of the Wind- sor Hotel, the handsome pile containing the station and general offices of the Canadian Pacific Railway, resembling the keeo of a Norman castle; the Y M. C. A. building; and, overshadowing them all, the great Roman Catholic Cathedral, which is known as St. Feter^s in spite f 68 MONTR K A r-. Of the fact that «t. James is Its pation M.Unt. Tt.is n«,bU. «tnictnre l8 a /ae^mite of Ht. Peter's at I{,„„o, with itn (ll,ue„sion« rednc-d •bout one half. The extreme meaHurements of this eathedral are ■ l*«nKth .'133 ft., breadth 222 ft., height 2rt8 ft, circumference of dome 240 ft. Of the other Roman Catholic churchcH of the city the n.oat Jnter- CHting to touriMtH arc the beautiful Church of Xotre Dame de iMunle, on the corner of St. Catherine and St. Denin St8. ; the Jemih^ Chnrch on Hleury St., with its unrivaled frescoes and ex(|uisite music- the Chapel of Notre Dame de Nazareth, with its fine paintings; an.! the famous old Jiomecoura Church, which was built in 1771. Of the Anglican churches the finest, from an architectural point of view, are St. Gcorye\ the Church of St. Jamen the Ap „tfe, and the stately Chrixt Church Cathedral at the corner of Univer.^ity and St Cath erine Sts. This latter structure is, r>crha,,s, with the exception of Christ Church Cathedral at Fredericto.., the most , 3rfect specimen of pure Gothic architecture on the conth.ent. A noble and massive structure IS the new Methodist church on St. Catherine St. The Presbyterians have a number of fine churches, of which the most noteworthy- archi- tecturally, are St. Panl\ the Crescent Street, and the America7i Prexb,,. ierian. The old St. GabrieV, Church, which was erected in n9-> iit the west end of the Champ-de-Mars, is still standing, and now shelters the School of Art. Montreal has three Jewish synagogues, one of which, lately erected on Stanley St., is an impressive structure some- what after the "nes of an old Egyptian temple. Besides the Place d'Armes and Dominion S(,uare, already referred to Montreal has other parks and squares. She is well supplied with breath' mg-places. There is the histoiic Chm,v de Mars, on Craig St. still used as a parade-ground. Near the City Hall is Jacques-Cartier Square adorned by two Russian guns from the spoils of Sebastopol, and by a Co\ umn and statue erected in 1808 in memory of Nelson. At the junc- tion of McGill and St. James Sts. is Victoria Square, formerly the hay- market, presided over by a colossal bronze statue of the Queen On St. Denis St., the aristocratic French residence quarter, are the Vigcr Oardcm. St. Helen's Island, moreover, is now used as a public park though belonging to the English Government. It is the favorite resort o[ the city picnickers, and forgets its martial experiences of old times Champlam's wife, in whose honor the island is named, was the first European woman of gentle birth to cast in her lot with Canada A I MONTREAL. 69 place of resort which the tcmriHt hIiouKI not fiiil to visit h the Bon- iecours Market. The great inaiket-chiyH are TueHilay and Friday when the broad space ih thron-ed with hahilanlH* ,,„,! (,„« comes into clone contact with the quaint materia! of which French Canada is really made up. Montreal is not only a city of churches, but of hospitals and bencv- olent institutions as well. The larf;est and wealthiest of these is the mtcl.Dini, under the mann},'eii.ent of the HIaek Nuns. This institu. tion was foun.led in U\ii. The famous CJrey Nunnery, founded in 1738, is not a convent, but a hospital, undir the management of the Grey Nuns. According to Murray's Guide to .Montreal, " The nauic ♦Grey Nuns' was first },dven them in derision. The malicious reports eirculated against the ladies, especially that of furnishing the Indians with alcohol, and maiving too free a use of it themselves, gave rise to the epithet 'S.eurs (irises,' the word ffrisc hearing a double meaning in French, viz., a gray color, or tipsy." '.i.e "Sisters who were thus cruelly assailed have nuide the once i)pprobriou8 epithet a title of the highest honor. The best time for visitors to call at the Grey Nunnery is at the noon hour, when callers are always made welcome. The liw/at lie lorin Hospital is the gift of two of Montreal's chief citizens. Sir (Jcorgc Stephens and Sir Donald Smith. Just below Ilochelaga, beyond the eastern limits of the city, stood the vast structure of the Lotiffue Pointc Asjilum, which was burned to the ground in the summer of 1890. This institution was in charge of a Roman Catholic religimis order. Sixty of the inmates, including several ol the nuns in charge, perished in the conflagration. Among the educational institutions are McGill Unirersity, the Presbyterian College, the Montreal College or Seminary of t^t. sJpice the Veterinary Colleffe, St. Mary's or the Jesuif^^ Col/ecfe,' tho Montreal branch of Laval [fniversity, whose parent institution is at Quebec the ViUa.Maria Convent School for Girls, and the Girls' School of the JVuvs 0/ the Sacred Heart. Of these the most important is of course McCJill University, which, under the presidency of the renowned Sir William Dawson, has grown to a world-wide fame and influence. The pride of the city, it receives munificent gifts from wealthy dtizens, and is ever reaching out to wider spJieres of usefulness. Its buildings, which arc on Sherbrooke St., the " Fifth Avenue " of Montreal, stand in the midst * French Canadian ccuntry-folk. 70 i ft i ! [' MONTREAL. of f -.e groundH, and contain a good library and the famous. Redpath Museun,. Affiliated with MeCJiil are the Presbyterian, Congregational, Wesleyan, mu Anglican Colleges of Montreal, together with Morrin (.ollege at Quebec and Si,. Frances College, Richmond. The tourist wd 00 well to visit the Art Gnller;, on Phillips Square, and the rooms 01 the AatHvnl Hutor,, Society on University St. The museum of this 8«ei.-'ty IS the best in Canada. Among its treasures are the "Ferrier ( olleetion" of Egyptian antiquities, the most perfect of its kind on the . ont.nent. Here also may be seen the first breech-loading gun ever ioade. We read in Muray s Guide that "it was sent out to this coun- try by the French Government. It was used by the French in one of their expeditions against the Indians of Lake Oka. The Indians at- tacked the canoe in which the cannon was placed and upset it The cannon lay for a while in the bottom of the lake, and one part of it was lost there and never found." The museum ,vlso contains the best exist- mg collection of Canadian birds. One of the clrfef "lions" of Montreal is the famous Victoria Bridge, already mentioned as the " eighth wonder of the world " The engineering genius that spanned the Menai Strait -the genius of Robert Stephenson and Alexander M. Ross-designed this mi-hty structm. by which the Grand Trunk Ry. crosses the St. Lawrence from Montreal to the south shore. VV^ith a length of a few yards less than 2 miles, this is the longest bridge in the world. It is a vast tube supported on 24 piers, exclusive of the terminal abutments. The tube has inside diameters of 22 ft. vertical ana lb ft. horizontal. From the bed oi the river to the top of the center tube is a distance of 108 ft. The current of the St. Lawrence at this point has a speed of about 1 nnles an hour. The cost of the bridge was $6,300,000, and its con- struction occupied five years and a half. It was formally opened by the Prince of Wales In I860. Close by the bridge, at Point St. Uiarle-s, ,s the burying-ground of 6,000 immigrants who died in 1847- 48 of a frightful epidemic of ship-fever. In the center of the buryin- ground ,s a huge bowlder known as the Lnmiffmnts^ Mcm.-ial S^oZ which was taken from the bed of the river and raised on a olumn of masonry by the workmen engaged in the construction of the brid-e In sharp contrast with the gigantic tube of the Victoria Biid'^re is the aerial structure by which the Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the ht. Lawrence at Lachine. This bridge is b-ilt on the most modern design, and is a l>rilliant application of the cantilever principle Its MONTREAL. 71 spans appear like clusters of great steel cobwebs. Tbey offer little resifltancd to the winds, and combine the greatest strength with the least possible weight. Prominent among the buildings of Montreal are the new Victoria Hospital, the capacious Bmavenkire Depot, belonging to the Grand Trunk Ry., and the splendid station of the Canadian Pacific on Wind- sor St. This latter edifice may honestly be called palatial, resembling as it does a palace far morethan a railway station. In connection with the water-supply of Jlontreal there is a point of interest for the tourist. This is the great reservoir, which is hewn out of the solid rock far up the side of the mountain. The reservoir has a capacity of 36,500,000 gallons. It is supplied by an aqueduct which leads the water of the St. Lawrence from above the Lachine Rapids to a point on the western limit of the city, whence it is pumped up the mountain to the reservoir. The tourist who is interested in athletics and outdoor sports will see some splendidly contested Lacrosse matches at the grounds of the Shamrock and Montreal Clubs, and he will do well to visit the admi- rably equipped gymnasium of the Montreal Amateur Athletic Associa- tion and the Y. M. C. A. building on Dominion Square. At the La- crosse Grounds matches are usually being played on Saturday after- noons, or other days as advertised, and admission is by ticket. If he is at all touched with Anglomania he will be enraptured with the Montreal Hunt Club, the best-conducted establishment of the kind on the continent. In respect of sports, Montreal is as well off in win- ter as in summer. Men and women alike are enthusiastic devotees of the iiardy pastime of tobogganing. Perhaps the best skaters and snow-shoers in the world are the sons and daughters of Montreal. Her Winter Carnivals, with their ice castles stormed by torchlight, their gay skating tournaments and masquerades, their unrivaled snow-shoe parades, have become world-famous. The climax of the Carnival is the assault upon the ice-castle, whicli, illuminated within by electric light, flames with a white and ghostly radiance recalling the dream- palaces of Kublai Khan. Down the mountain wind the assailing lines of torch-bearers, their strange costumes more strange in the lurid Ught ; and the spectral citadel is carried with tumult, amid a many-colored storm of rockets, Roman candles, and all the most gorgeous of pyro- technic devices. Last winter the Carnival was held in Quebec, instead of in Montreal. 1^ \ 72 Montreal. me Least Money. «'.^.//, the co„...*^, ivw««;'^, :f;i7.*7'.\''-^- J^resbt/Zerian Church and nnt f ^«""w»2c«^ bt. Gabriel St. old Gill St. to Vi„,„™ Sa„a " ° '"'"■'"■''' '""'er W. Then walk „p Mc Thence retrace vour sten, J., i^ ,,' ''""'"'""= "-"i St. Denis St8. «.ere U the oM^ r^Vrra /"X^^C f '™'^ ^•■' »"'' Brar^hV^;j:'\r;T;°;n'*^^^^^^^^^^^^ museum in connection with the ceS I h'™;:„""' '"'"'"""« payment of a small entrance feel and ,.r k '""^ ™"''' "»' voirs; and if, on don't wir o ;„ cab I. L"" ".^ T "'■'' "'"'" m-ntain, you can g„ „p Uy the eleva. „' * S"en af I'"" 1'"' taken a cood view nf n,o c. j- ' ^rter you have motrntainfand^I^^ed . :;: "^."""'■■y """' ""^ "P "' *e city by the omni;:^!' i;:™:r '°". "" ^""^ ""* '» "-^ oven, Of necessary e.,JX:u^°;^Z:ZrVoT """ T added the fact that thp np«. ni. . • ^" *'"^ '""st be and will carry the trlvel ' . 1 "/"' ''"*"" "" '''' *'' ''''"^««^' di ry me traveler to almost any part of the city. MONTEEAL TO ST. lOHN. From Kontreal to St. John. 73 From Montreal the tourist, who has already visited Oaebee ■„,„ ttr;mo*f "*;fr'"" "' '-^ Canada; pLt^LHi^: (fare, tUM; return, $19) whieh traverses the so-called Eastern Tow^ s^ups, the great hunting and Ashing districts about AkeZZ^i: man rae rtc R. R. bndge KtZachhu:, and run through the Indian villare olCau,,,na„a!,a,M,ere6ne« the remnants of the Iroquois Thefe Iud,.ns arc magniacent boatmen, and in the late E=j.p,i.rX a ba"d N le At t", ' T'""''" '"*^ ""■ •^"Sland i;f t'e rapid of he veiges for the 11 hile Moimlaim. 8oon we come in sirhl of 3/.™ ; -«•. shining waters, watched over b, thrf m f plf7F;: Phant,s and Owl's Head. From Ma„ Nation a steamer dp rtsdf^; reports tor wliieh the region is famous. After passing Ma^oe the „.„ .mportant station is Ska-i^ooke, the me.ropoH of the E«c™ To" ships a pretty cityat the junction of the Magog and St. Frnci Rivers' Sherbrooke has a population of between 9,000 and 10 000 and'; bmlding up a large manufacturing interest. The falls of .hi M j„ , . ^ijui-uti, i^entral ii. h. runs throueh a nnifllv developmg , ,„ y„^^^ ^ ^^^ fre be inter of re ateh of r r^ "°""''"-'' '"" "' ^-"-"'i'l', the scat Col . e*h„„| th"' '""""""' "' '''*°''''' "o"'^"'^ and Bishop's nrt™! , ? '"'""Itions have of late been making very .>reat has lately suffered a severe blow in the destruction by fire of the fine .ertTXr?. '" the neighborhood of Lenuoxville a p'l: „ft thl! 1 I . ■ ""'""""^^ ««l>e<I the Geneva of Canada where we come .:Tv m' ''^=""""" '"^ """ «»"' «■"> i» '-ted ' T Z we come to Lake .Megamic, a body of water 12 miles long from I to 4 :ur;.rr:soTrfi:iinr' -r-™- ''- °"-«" o ""c le&uic oi nbli. 1 here la fair nec"m!"n'i3fmn -i-' ^r u^ «»«»», and competent guide, may be procured ^ the spol 'ITw .1 -- i : 74 MONTUKAI, TO ST. JOHN. nulos hoyond Moj?antlc we cross tl.e l.o.u.daiy.llno, and find ourselves In the State of Maine. Twenty ini!..8 fron. Me^-untie Station we run into tlu. village of l^owvlltovn. Tlu-n e«.n.es (h-vmviUe, on the shore of the giftn(h>st of all Maine waters, the famous M,Hmehmd Lake. This water is 10 miles long and from 1 to 15 wide. Its seencry is mafrnifi- eent and varied, its waters are splendidly stocked with trout of great 8i/.e, and around its shores are a.lmirable shootinK-firounds, where one may bag such game as moose, bear, deer, and earibo.,, to say nothit.g of grouse innumerable. At (Jreenville are guides and eanoes, and sev- eral comfortable hotels, from (hrninUe Jumtion the IJ. k \ R R divergt>s to ()!dt,.wn and Mangor, Me. Steamers run to all the points of n.terest on the lake, including the well-known hlwo //o«.v.. at the foot of Mount Kinco. Moosehead Lake is the source of die Kennehc Hive,' which flows out of the lake at Askwilh Stnlhv. In the 100 nnles of eon.parative wilderness between Moosehead Lake and Matiawamkeap the chief points of interest are IJoarstoue Mountain and the lovely Lake Ouawii. At Ih'ommllr Jwir/ion we cross the line of the Katahdin Iron Works Jtailway. At Mattawamkemi the C. P. R. R. unites with the line eonneeting liamior and St. John. At the same point the track crosses the Peuohscot Rher. Fron. this point to Vmevboro, on the New Rruns- wick boundary, we pass through a rugged country, full of lakes and atrean.s, and dotted here and there with crude little lumbering villages Vanceboro is on the .SV. CroU lihrr, the outlet of the boundary, or Chi- putnetieook Lakes. The region ,)f these lakes is a good one for the sports- man, and Vanceboro is a convenient point from which to reach them Six miles beyond A'anceboro is MeAihrn JmHion, a village whose houses are piMrlunl in such vacant spaces as can be found between the huge bowlders which cover the face of the land. At McAdan) connections are made for II (>(«/.v/,.e/-an.l /WsqneJs/eto the N.,and for Cidah, Ht. Stephen, and the lovely summer resort of St. And,rw\', to the S. Forty ndles be- yond McAduu. is the little village of Fredericton Junction, 20 n.iles irom Fre.lerieton ; and a run of 44 nules beyond Fredericton Junction, through scenes to be described in later pages, brings us to the city of .S^ John. Montreal to auebec by the St. Lawrence. If the tourist has not seen Qurba-, then assuredly he will not take the short lin(> to the Maritime Provinces. By one of throe routes he will eerta.nly betake himself to a city that is perhaps, in many respects, the best worth seeing on the continont X. of Mexico; and from Quebec MONTREAL TO QTTKBKC. n ; ' r' *'' ""''''r "^""'"^^ J^'"^''^'^- ^^ ^^^^ intercolonial U ( « coas . P..o„. Montreal, one n.ay go to (^.ebec either by the U he down the N. shore, or by Htean.er down the :ni.hty strean. itHelf. Ah , ,. t bo preHun,ed that the traveler has plenty of time, and desires pl d.d palaee stean.ers that ply between Montreal and Quebec belon-' l.e luehehen and Ontario Navigation Con.pany. The distance ": 180 nnles; and the first-class fa.e, not including supper or berth i *8 OS A 7 "'"'•^.;"^"^ «^ ^«"t^-''H -ti-n« have their s,!m,nc bod . At Longueu.1, .n 177n, Governor Carloton m^s defeated by tic An.er.can forces. On the N. shoe, a little beyond is I^„„l /^.... with the ruins of the great asy.u'.n already .nTtl.^ X nnles t,.on. Montreal we pass I'oin,au..7WnMes,L. its old Frencl ch....cl., W1..C1. was built in 1704. A little farther „„, and w ear among the «at and .-eedy Isles of Bone.ennUe, where ad.nirabl a e the p.ko-fislnng a.ul duck-shooting in their seasons. Among Lese «hoa s and islands and reaches of slow water, the ice, in the's i ^ Mont., a, hnds ve.-y troubleson.e. Fifteen miles f.-om Montreal is the ha.nnngly situated health-resort of Varennc, u.a6o important by it n n,e..al spr.,.gs. The fields of Va.-ennes are washed in front b/th ^onv7;T' "J." '''' '■'"■ '^ *^" "•••""^ *''^« "f th« '-elv and his- tonc /e.a./.^. Thrty miles beyond Va.-ennes the Kichelieu flows into 1.0 St Lawrence. At this point stands Sard, which has lately been pro- mote to the dignity of a city. Here in 16.5 a fort was esta'blisLTy i)c l.acy. Sorol was for a long time the summer residence of the Gov^ t^rlTfr ''^^" '^ '-''' ««hingamongthe islands whici: dus- anit!u • f • ' "Z'^' "'"' '" ^''''^'' '^'' neighborhood affords cap.tal smpe-shooting. The population of Sorel in 1881 was 5791 nameVof'thToffi"' Tf " ''"^" *'" Richelieu .re perpetuated the na, es o the officers of the old Carignan-Salieres Regi.ncnt, who were ta^oned on se.gnor es throughout this region to guard the Approaches ol^^r an V'- f "*"' P-^"--l-'y puts it, they are picketed ;ound the ancent rendezvous at the confluence of the Richelieu and -. Lawrence, ... as though still guarding the Troq„oi. Kiver-Gate " He..e, besides Va.-enner, we have Berthier.^Lavaltrie; BonchcrrCortre- i! I 76 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. C(Bur and Verchores. One of the mcst illuHtrious c.f Canada's heroines 18 Madeleme daughter of Lieutenant Verchcire.. Verohfires's fort was called Castle Dangerous," being so exposed to the assa.dts of the Iro- quo.s On one occasion Madeleine, with a force of three men and two ht le boys, sustained the attacks of the Iroquois for a whole week till help came from Quebec. TI>e girl was at this time but fourteen y'eavs of age. Her followers, on the first attack, were for killing themselves to escape the torture of the Iroquois, but her dauntless coura«^e and energy gave them new heart, and her wisdom taught them to conduct the defense successfully. The valley of ihe Richclim was for two ccnttiries a pathway of war along which fire and sword, Iroquois and Abenakis, French and Dutch and English, Canadian and American, streamed alterufitely on errands of vengeful hace. The tourist who wishes to travel this blood-stained track will ascend through landscapes of blended sublimitv and peace, and find himself at le:,gth on the bosom of that magnificent lake, no longer Canadian, which jet perpetuates the name of the Father of Canada bamuel de Champlain. Like the war parties of old, he will find him- self m the very heart of the State of Xew York. Unlike those ancient visitors, however, his visit will be not unwelcome. He will have found his ascent of the rushing Richelieu made easy by the Chambhi Canal He will have traversed the rich and lovely Eastern Townships and caught their distinctive flavor. He will probably delay his trip, and inger long and wander hither and thither in this delightful land of lake and mountain. Besides Lakes Memphremacfog and ATcffantic he will visit the lovely waters of Brome and Afrmawippi. Throu-h the wild maple-wooded hills he will trace the path by which, in 1759,°the aven- mg band of Rogers's Rangers swept to the slaughter of the Abenaki's -atter which the homes of New England had peace for a little But the strife of man will presently be forgotten as we mark how the struggles of warring Nature, in forgotten ages, have scored the face of all this region with their gigantic and indelible records. The effects of these ancient cataclysms, together with the sphere of their opera- tion, have been thus well described by Mr. J. Howard Hunter in Pict uresque Canada : * ' ^ "Throughout this land the strata have been much shaken and changed by some Titanic force-seemingly steam heated beyond 'he scale of any pyrometer, and tortured under pressure which would be inadequately gauged by thousands of tons to the square nch sTr Will MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 77 Lake .9 equivalent to a vertical dlsSSJlnrnrr ^l"'""^'''"^ «*r^ Westward of this line of ruSeS Tl'^ *'!0»«'^"d3 of feef. the sedimentary rocks that7ef:"|7eS"V;:^^^^^^^^ ^"-"^"'^ ""«- softened, rearranged their elements Ami .0!^. --o incandescent steam, Under the enormous preZre below 'the si r?J^ \^Y^ "■" «'°"^ P««t^' and sometimes opened w dr Inliantir n?f ;'vf'"***''':*''""*'-^«'-««kcd rushed the pasty rock formincr d^l-l, n/. k ?^ "^^'^^ ^"^ fis^^res the very granite foundat^^sof the woHdT^^*'.'''".'^'""^^- ^^ P'^^es followed the sedimentarrrocks to T}^^ *\^.V" ^°^*^°«d and yielded most, stately nyrimWs of monnt.-''f- ,^^''*"''' ^he ground is to such throes of MoZr Earth J^""*«'°-P»'oV°Plf sm were born. It of Bchul Mountain and r«^S« p'LZ ""T '^/ .^Z^""^"' sisterhood line more intense still must have hopn fil Eastward of Logan's Memphremagog with such soirinf n. I ^^^^i^^^rgy that girdled Lake and Elephanlil With"n ifiStC^^"' ^""'" "^'-^^'^ ^'"''« ^^<^l shaken this area, but even he moS vinTT ''"'''" earthquakes have pared with the elementdwlrs of InloS" ^''T^'^P^'^ P^«*™« <^om. every one was frightened bv these l^}Sl antiquity. To be sure, killed. From the records of h( old 1^-1^ •''.^"* *''«» "« «"« was we learn that on the 5th of kptemif 7So™;f '^ '^^ ^'' ^''^"«i« rudely shaken as to deloy its S tv nf' t' YT ^''"^^e was so are still discernible on both de of ?e\?ver u'" ""''^^^^^ ^''^^^^^ more violent, was the famous earthquake of Ififiq T ^f"''^'' ""^ f^"" ruary began a series of convuIsiZ whthiil V • ^^^ ^*^ ""^ ^'^b- midsuM.mer. Land-slides occrJedaTl^^^^^^ .*^"'*' disappear till blue St. Lawrence ran white a fa' down asVado "^«^-»'t"'^^ ^«d the plained the phenomenon in his own wav At M.. ', ^^"'^ ^"« ^•^■ sciences were smitten for haiin-soM'fir/ . *""*''*'?'' "''* ^ ^^w con- Indians, however, declared thn?%H\r''i^' ^"^ ^^^ ^''^^ans. The struggli'ng to return to the earth v hunting "' "^r ^^''•^^«*hers weJe fully, they kept firing off thcrmus eTs tf f''""''!; "•"^' '"««^ ""^uti- " 'for,' quoth the muslWrs 'it's Sin to J X' *^'^»«q»i«t «i'-es ; on earth for both of us ! '" ^ ^^ **'®'"^^ °o* game enough The earliest recorded name of th^ r;«>,„i- t>. to the land of the Mohawks Th,> ohilfT ' . ""'""-' " '""^ pretty little garri.on oityTfl I, 1 " ^ ""^ '"'■•''*"'"' '^ 'he A few miles belovv the mouth of the Richelieu thp f, r opens out into the gre.. expanse called Zai-o ^SL cttie""™''." th,s water, when first l,e ascended the St. Law^^^e d Y"™ T but slxty-ei<iit vonr<» into,- ;+ • • , '*"^*'"*^<^' ^ac d AngouI6me; Day and na-n ' '"'' '''''*'*^ ^>' Champlain on St. Pp.o..'J l^aj, and namuu m pious commemoration of the festival. The lakeis 1 78 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 23 miles In length by 9 nulcs in breadth, and is shallow ex..ent in the channel, which has been dredged to afford safe passage to the largest ■ ocean steamers. The shallow waters are subject to sudden and violent storms, by which the great rafts on their leisurely way to Quebec are frequently wrecked. The wide waters of Lake St. Peter were once famous for the songs of the raftsmen delayed on the sluggish current At the foot of Lake St. Peter is a sharp bend called Poinle Phton with a httle island over against it whereon of old stood a fort It was called Fort Richelieu, and was established by Chan.plain in 1633 All vestiges of the fort have vanished, but its memory lingers in the name of the swift and broken water below Pointe Platen, which is known as the Richelieu Kapid. A little below Lake St. Peter flows in from the north the great St Maurice River, which will be referred to later on. At its mouth stands the city of Three Rivers, ranking third in importance and population among the cities of the province. This city stands midway between Montreal and Quebec, at the head of tide-water on the St. Lawrence It has a population of about 10,000, and is the center of a heavy trade' m lumber and iron. Around the city lie vast deposits of bog-iron ore and the great lumbering interests of the upper St. Maurice find an outlet through its port. Three Rivers is the see of a Roman Catholic bishop whose cathedral is an imposing structure. The city derives its name from the fact that the river on which it stands enters the St Lawrence by three mouths. It was founded in 1618, and played an important part m the early history of Canada. The smelting of iron was be-un at Three Rivers as early as 1737. The city is rendered the moreln- teresting by the masses of legend and romantic tradition that cluster about it, offering a field which las hardly been touched save by the pen of the French-Canadian author, Benjamin Suite. It will well repav an extended visit. Steamers ply from the city wharves to the adjacent nver villages. Within easy reach are many larjre mountain brooks s varming with trout; and from the city one may conveniently visit the splendid fishing waters of the upper St. Maurice. A stage-ride of 26 miles from Three Rivers takes one to the famous miuemi sprin-s of 8t. Leon. On the south shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite Three Rivers, is the village ot Doucefs Landing, the terminus of the Artha- baska and Three Rivers branch of the G. T. Ry., which connects the city with the Eastern Townships. A short distance below Three Rivers we pass the village of Batiscan, MONTKEAL TO QUEBEC. 79 at the mouth of tho Batinc-an River. River and village are named after an Indian duef famous in the early history of Unada Th nt vllage commemorates the apparently omnipresent Ste. Anne-in "h « case called S^e. Anne de la Penul. Beyond St. Anne's lies the nc '^ Qu beTh °J'77«f --*'-. -'-e, during the final sic^^^ o EnT^H h Tlf'l" "'^^^r™' — "^«- between Froncl' and of m: J. M L m!;:::^' '""^"" " *'''^" ^■^"'" '- — '-^"^ p-^- pa^t three in the Z^^^t^'t^Z^ h'T'^'^' '^'^"^ *>«'^- church in capturing aboutth e^nladir AmoL tZ7 •''"""^•*''^ were Mesdamos Duehesniiv Dp pj„.,« -Vl i ^'"<^"K the fair captives and Mdlle. CouiUaJd JS jl^^S i'ot'a^^ «i«ter, part of them. Thev were treZd with 1 i • ^""?" ''""""'^ ^o^-^ed (General Wolfe heaL) he d . a^m nt ,2r JS^ "^ ■?'''''■ . ^^""g name of her captor ° ' "^^ ' ^°^ "^"P"™ '»■■ "» ''•y bore the young so!dior.„wa;dt"«yllt''t;;*'' Nex". ZM^i"-"'!! l' "■" were bronght home In bo,{, and laSd .,TJ^A^, tT"''' their release, to retire to a plice of safelf Wh ™''"™, """'• "fo"- .759 Madame Wolfe, MadaCfstebo £la™ '^7"°" w'S^t"""', 'l ^::nS:rTyib!!roet;s;it; rr.^^^^^^^^^^ Sh'irbrt^o:^;s^i„feii^~^^^ his spirited though unsLessM deS^thl ;ote1,ir!,fti:i;;tS.^ .„/",',""' P»"/<"'»"«-C'"*'- J?»"-, famous for its salmon-fishins and well stocked with tront. Here the shores of the St. Law enee begm to grow more bold ard picturesque. Lower down ,-. pa-Ito If <a m 80 MoNTHKAr, To yil.IIWJ. tho ol..„r .nnnilMK liKlu.tlio ..I.I v «.. „f Si. , I »,/«./,„, whom- (irnt '•'""•'•I'- l"'ilt ii' I (Mm. ..nj.iy.Ml. .urunlli.n lu tiiMlitloii, a vny |Mriillur .ll^-tlncfl...!. It IH tuM Mint fl.,. .lovil, in tli.. ^nllH,. of h ^iKa.UU. hliirk lioiso uf inonslroiiH hIivii;;,!,, Iiaiilr.l tlic Imi,.c' mLmh-h <if tlii> fmimln. tinii wuIIh. AlM.ut 12 inil.M fi„in Q,,,.!,..,. is tho .n.,„||, „r ,|„. rV,,,,,. </i,Vr AVm-. llowhiK ii« from ll.o H<.iith. Tliis liv.-r m.mm a wil.l ,.<,.,,«„ (.f nimiif KM) t„||,.H, 1111,1 ,.H it iKMUH tlio St. I.uwivnc.. plniip.H ,|.mii ,, iinKuili.rnt Tall of unMy 1«)0 ft. Tl... ciiliiiH.t ih f.M.io.iH for ifn pi.'ti.n.H<|.i.> niiMMlonr. it wuh l»y wiiy of the viil!..v of tl.c ClmudUNi-H timt Uom-dirt Arnnl.l Inl liin tro(.|>H on Hint l...i<.ir h.it .lis,.- |..„ih ex- ix-'lltion (.f his from New Ki.jtIhiuI to giirl,,.,-. Tiu. sloiinl hrij^.tH wlii.h loom on ("itli.T Inind n« wo appi-oacl. tin,.|.i«i' will l.o (loscribcd in HiihsiMpuMit pnniKinpliH. StoaminK iM'twcoii tlio cliirs of I'oint I6v\n nn.l th.. guns of that aiMhil dtad,! which jr„afdH tho ^ato uf I'anada, wo round up to tho wliaivos of (imdioc To Quebec by the South Shore. In poin-x from Mi.utroal to Q.iohoo by tho (hand Truidt, the trav. olor is oMrri...! far south ..f tho St. Lawronco, and throu-h the romantio and rioldy storiod hindscaprs alroady drsorii.od in oonnoction with tho Uioholiou Uiv.-r. It is a K.voly journoy, and sh,)uld ho talvon on th(> day oxpross. Tho or<..ssin- of tho Vicfnria liruhfr is liUo tho passago i)f a lot.« tuniu'l, and oooupios hctwoon four and' tlvo nuinitos. From Montreal to /Mn„o,nf, wIkvo tho Quoboo Hranoli divor^os from tho main lino running throufrh to /'or//a>n/, J/,., tho way is thick with thiiviii},' fown.s, and fnnffnl in histo:io momoiios. Tiio bu.'^y little Fronoh city of Sf. Ihimhihv, on tlio Yammka Uivcv, has some points of intorost for tho tourist, atul a population of about 7,000. It has a oollojjio, two oathodrals, an.l a largo manufaoturinj; intorost in leather, woohMis, and maehiuery. St. IlUmn; about 12 ndles west of St' Ilyaointho, has excelloni ll.uic-bn-s and piko Hshin- ia June, July, and August. At HichmonK i^tio • uit as a junction town, and for tl'io ooppor-minos in its vicinity, ihore is a villa-o poptdalion of between 1,000 Mu\ L',0(H». A few miles beyond Kiehmond is the growing vi»a<ro of D,u,nllc, with several factories. Avthalm.ka village is of impo"-- tauoo chielly as the starting point of tho branch line to Douccrs Land- in,,, already referred to. Near Arthabaska we cross tho river A7cW,7, named for Ohamplaiu's brave interpreter, Jean Niclot the peaeemakeri MONTttKAf, To QITinRO. 81 who ,lw..|t for „l„« y„H,.„ ,„„onK flio wizard NipinHinRH. A llttio l,..yo,„| A,tl,..b..Mkn li..^ Hh. vllla^.. „f sta„fnld. At r,,.trr, wlwr. w« ch.hh tl... //m,».o«,. /,>„,.,, tlH.n, iH u c(msi,|..rahN. l,.,„l„Mi„K iM,Hi,„.HH. Tw-n^y miloH fro,,, A/,./, in a Mtution with tiu, .nuHi.-ul ,uu,.o r,f .V. ^„„;h7 ,/. /A««nmy.. At Chaudihe w. ctohh th.- wild rivrr of tl.. Ha„u. nan., ahvad.v r,.f..r,vd .o Nino ..nl.H fai-thor o„ wo Htop at the Htati<,„ of / mnt lAivtH, wIkuh'O n ft-riy carrii-H uh over to Quebec. To auebeo by the North Shore. The tra!„H of the (.'. 1'. K. run bctw,.,-,. Quoboc and Montreal along thi' north shoio (.f the .St. Law Tl renc'c, in a little over hIx hourn. I''H IS a rapid and liixuriouH trip, for the line in unrivaled I ns;ement and npiipnient ; but in the way (.f land vari(>ty. Lcavinj,' Da/hounir S(juun' Stat Ihcholi Junction n inun- Hfape it offer." little 'ion we pasH the Hf;iii(»iiH of ''V«, Mile End, and SanH mix IUcoIIvIh, and leaeh St. M, \: whenee tlie main lino of the 0. i'. R. swerves iif? journey ucro.sH the eontinent. Paasinf,' the j 'iiriiti'H off for its „ , ... -"•' h ""^ j'lnction, we (TOHs the m..th branch of the Ottawa Jtiver at Terrrboune, whose lin.oHtone <l"arr.eK have built M<,ntreal. bVo.n Jolidte Junction the,-e are braneh lines to a number of small towns-Hueh as Jotiette, St. Fc'ij- de Vahis «.id .SV. (iabricl de lirandon. F,.on, Lanoraic and /iertkier Junction. n.n short bmnoh lines to villages of the .same na.nes on the river-shore Herth.er has a population of 2,«0(). In the neighborhood of I^ui,vilie are the St. Leon Sprinffs, already referred to. All these stations a,e in a level, highly eultivatcd plain, cut up into the long, narrow fields that characterize the older parts of Quebec. This curious arran^^emcnt anscsfrom the French custom of dividing estates equally amon^ the owner s hei,-s, and giving each po,-tion of the subdivided farms a like nve,.-frontage. Leaving Louisville the train runs through Yamachiche ana (omt du Lac, and i-eaches the city of 77<;w liivcrn. The St. A/aurice liiver, third in rank of the tributaries of the St Lawrence, rises in a maze of lakes and streams 220 miles to the north' In the same wild region rise the Ottawa and the Saguenay. It is a region v.s.ted udyby a few Indians and trappers, Hudson Bay traders and the lumbermen who.se axes ring on the banks of every stream' Civilization has as yet but touched the skirts of this wilderness. From the^banks of^the St. Lawrence it has climbed the river about 100 m, ^c „^ „ J. ,. .. p^j^j.jjj„ j^jjy ^^ ^^^ Tumie. Rntween i Tuqi 4J V|lf point 82 MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. and the "Piles," 60 miles farther down, the St. Maurice runs quietly and 13 traversed by a small steamer. The lower St. Maurice is a' successio., of fall, and rapids, which are avoided by a railway run- nmg from the "Piles" to Piles^ Juuction on the C. P. R. Below the "Piles "the land lies in terraces or "benches." Twenty-four miles above Three Uivers are the famous Hhmmncnan Falls, remarkable for their beauty and grandeur even in this country of cataract. The In dian name, Shawenegan, signifies " nee.Uowork," and was doubtle'^s suggested by the beautiful plp.y of colors on the foaming surface Just above the falls the river is ,^plit by a rocky island. The right branch descends with a direct plun.^e. The left, roaring around the obstacle meets the other almost at right angles. Here the reunited torrent finds Its way blocked by a rugged point. Hurled back upon itself, the river falls away to one side, and sweeps down a rocky trough into the swirl- ing bosom of a spacious basin. Into this same basin winds peacefullv between quiet glades of elms and river meadows, the Shaweneoan' River. If one £vscends this stream a little way, which may be done very delightfully in a canoe, he will be rewarded by a sight of one of the loveliest and most romantic of cascades, the Little Shaicencgm Falls Guides to the fishing and shooting of the St Maurice may be obtained at Ihree Rivers and other places. For information as to leased waters for permits, etc., one should write in advance to Joseph Reynar Esq ' Government Superintendent of the St. Maurice District. ' Two miles bejund Three Rivers our train passes Piles Junction already referred to. Then come Champlain, Bathcan, Lachevrotikre and ether villages whose names savor of old France. PoHneuf is a busy httle town, devoted to the manufacture of shoes and wood-pulo Seven miles frou. Quebec is T^rette, a settlement of Christianized Huron Indians, founded about two centuries and a half ago. Beyond Lorette we pass the junction of the Lake St. John R. R., the gateway to that sportsman's paradise which lies about the head-waters of the Saguenay Four miles farther, and our train stops under the c'-del of Quebec. City of Quebec. n i*"*®-!*' etc.-The Chdteau Frontmac ($3.50 to $5 per dav) on Dufferin Terrace ; the Florence (|2.50 to |4 per dayj in St John S? the St. Louis Hotel (f2.50 to $5 per day), in St^LoufJstneai- Dufferin SweVTowl ^ ^^^'"^^ ^^""^^^'^ ^*-' «»nd ^^anc/mVrf'*, in the QUEBEC, second lino run^. alor.^ Ifll S, " °.u'' f^'™'' '» ">« ™'>"*s. A .««-*., rn^iy bo"hwT.11 ' v' -.ab, ^ '„7:;;?h""- .''r'"^' °- the bofols and markpf^ ''vtry stables and on the cab-stands near ratus, ■» the la"" htfe, and SZti^XfllT °"'=i5">"'' ""P"' nee, the city „i,l, Son.h'Q,,cbe?New L vlrpoo" „°"|W 7' ™"- r„To"Lnf TT- ^^"'■™°^' -^ ™n th'celcs ay'^.^'tre 1 le oi urieans. An elevator runs from Chamnljiin ^t f« n. ap ■ Terrace in the summer only ^nampiam tet. to Dufferin 7%ea^re.— Academy of Music. Population of Quebec, 85,000. QUEBEC, 1757. Of 'or^i:IZt^^ ™!ro''^D*'2ttf ''°7^ The 0,„adian, Appleton & Co.) Roberts, and published by D. An eagle city on her heights austere, Taker of tribute from the chainlcs's flood, She watches wave above her in the clear The whiteness of her banner purged with blood. Near her grim citadel the blinding sheen Of her cathedral spire triumphant soars Rocked by the Angelas, whose peal serene' Beats over Beaupre and the Levis shores. Tossed in his light craft on the dancing wave A stranger where he once victorious trod The passing Iroquois, fierce-eyed and grave Frowns on the flag of France, the cross of God. Among the cities of the New World the grandest for situation the mos romantic in associations, the n.ost distinctive and pieturerue in detaU., i. th ,„el eity that keeps the gates of the S . La^ce No hmg could be more impressive than the view of Quebec from a Utle distance down the river, unless it be the n.atchloss ^nora fto be seen from the parapets of BufTerin Terrace, within the citv. Lo kin! which ,s the more impressive view. When one is ascendino- the St Lawrence he sees on his right the milk-white cataract of MontlZne^ descending as ,t were out of heaven over the dark face of the moun t ams that skirt the north shore of the St. Lawrence. On the leTthe U II li H gUllBKO. winto ^\\U^^^vH of hhuVOHmm, with (l.oir f-r-Kliltoiing fril,|,.,| HpiroH noHllo in Ml,. ,l,.op f?,oon of liixiiHniit ki-ovch. In fiont iIhch th« m. HiiintinK Htv, ti,.|- upon lior of Htrcproof,..! Iiouhoh and <pi.iin!, piodpi- 1..M1S sfn>..ts,hmuJ(I.Kof Kn«vrliir-rr,mt,«iul UKain M... roofH an<i towm, HH.I far np, on Ih,. Mnnniit, of M,,. hfijri.f, Ihr kHm. oviio of tl... ancient oUadol. An'OMs fl... faoo of tl.(. p,.,»p|,.,l sL-cp run inryularly tlio n.asH- ivo linos of Mu' olty walls, and on a luitt.ral (oimco n.i.lnav lu'twoiMi the watt.r-front, and the ,^/y,„A7 frown tlu' gutiH of tlio (hond liathn,. Near l)v is (ho piotnivs.pu. (%U,au Frontemv, a n...n„i(i,H«nt. hotel, niodtdod ou t\w plan of tlio .sixfocnili HMitury Kivnoli c/„Ur,n>.r. Tli,« fiourisldng HulMnh of N/. /,•„,/< sw(,.ps otr to tl.o ii-l,t from tin- lower slopes of the eape, luid dwindles into the villaj^es of Vh,u-hsbo,mt and Imi-vUc. A lit- tie lower down the «pdet ennvnt of the St. ChaHrs winds in silver curves thn.ujih the meadows of /,V„«;«„7. On the hij,'h shores beyond the city are (he dark lir-^n-ovesof .s///,r//, " with its niernorh-s of missions and mas- saeres." The water-front of the eity is thronged with ships whose masts and funnels ob.^eure th(> warehouses. Ships are anehored thiekly in mid- ehannel, and between them dodj^e the pidlli»g tu{,'s and the hifrh two- deeker ferries making their hasty way to the lofty and huddling "own of iy,ut Ltns, whose heif,dits resound all day to the shrieks of loeomotivcs. The pieture is one whose sublime lines and masses are brought out to the full by the fresh eolorin- that plays over it. Under the vivid and flawless blue eo.ne out sharply the pale j,May of the citadel, the duller {.'ray of the elltr-face streaked with rust-eoior and splashed with lij^dit Sreen, the black pins bristlin-on the ramparts and batteries, the brown streets, roofs of shininjj; tin, and jjildcd steeples, with here and there a billow of thick fidia-rc, the blue-jrreen Hood of the St. Lawrence, the white and emerald of the tributary farms and villages, and the somber purple setting of the remote surmunding hills. A famous American bishop declares, -Only Heidelberg in (Jermany, Stirling an.l Edinburgh in Scotland, and Khrenbreitstcin on the Khine, can contend with Quebec f*>r grandeur of situation and the noblest l)eauty." The vast promon- tory whii-h the city occupies is called Cafu- Diamomi, from the innu- n)crablc qmirtz crystals which ont-e glittered over its surface. THK HISTOKY OF (^UKBEC. The site of Quebec, when visited in 15ar> by Jaetiues Cartier, was oecupitHi by the hulian town of Stadaeona, which signifies " The' nar- wwing of the river." Cartier was recrlvcd by the indiaus with generous QUEBEC. 85 hospitality, and by tholr nid continued IiIh explorations up the river to Hoi'hclaKa. Mcforc Htartinj,' on Iuh n-turn voyage to France he repaid their kiiulneSH by Iddnappinj,' their head chief Donnacona, with several others of the tribe, to take home as tropliies and proofs of his advent- ure. In irsi 1 Oartier came again with five ships, but found no friendly w»>lconie. His trcfaehery was not to be forgotten in five years. He attempted to found a settlement at Cap Rouge, but the hostility of the Indians lay heavy upon him and the effort was abandon<-d. A little later the attempt was repeated by the Sieur de Koberval, nicknam<;d by Francis I "The little King of Vimieu." This was in 1549. The enterprise of De Koberval, which came to a disastrous end after a win- ter of tvMTible sufl'erings and Strang.; disease, has been made the sub- ject of a pieture.s<pie and brilliant historical drama by the Canadian poet John Hunter Duvar. With the remnants of his little colony De Koberval set sail for France, and nothing more was heard of him there- after. It is supposed that the auii)s went down in a storm off the coast of Newfomulland, The real founding of Quebec was in 1608, when Champlain estab- lished a post at the foot of the steep. Stadacona had j)assed away. Soon a tiny village stood upon its site. Champlain was a practical colonizer, and he succeeded where (hirtier and Roberval had failed. In the winter came the scourge of that strange and dreadful disease, the scurvy, and of his little band of t>8 but 8 survivet' to greet the spring. In the following year Champlain made an alliance with the tribes of the Algonciuins and Hurons, and committed New France to a hundred years of war with the Five Nations. For some years Quebec was but a military and fur-trading post, but Champlain's purpose was to found an empire, and the foundation of that, he well knew, must be laid in farming. He brought out one Louis H chert, with his son-in-law Couil- lard, to till the soil of New France. The families of these men struck deep root into the virgin soil, and now their descendants are to be found all over the province. Two of the quaintest and most mediajval- looking of the streets of Quebec are Hehert and Couillard Sts., which are said to run where ran the first furrows plowed in Canada. They are straighter than those old streets in Boston which follow the devi- ous paths worn by the cows of the Pilgrim Fathers. JIad the farmers come to Quebec in as great numbers as did the R6collets and Jes- uits, and with half the zeal and en-rgy of these latter, New France would have grown as rapidly as Nc. England. As it was, however, 86 QUKBEC. its prowth was ooinpnifttivol.v sU.w, and the policy of tho grcRt fur- trndiiip company wl.icl. oontrollo.) it for a long while checked its devel- opment. In 1«2J> the infant stronghold was captured l.y Hir David Kirko; but it wn.. restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germain-en- Laye, and dian.plain again became its Oovcrnor. In IC.IJB the " Father of Canada" died, and, strange to say, we know not his exact resting. place, for the reei.rds of Quebec were burned in the great fire of 1640 It IS ono.igh to know that he lies sou.ewhere within the city and guebec is his ali-suMicient m(mun.ent. Quebec may be said to have boen born under the auspices of two strangely incongruous powers -rehgion ami the fur-tra,le-and the forn.er. fortunately, got the best of ,t in the long run. It moved rich and devoted women to found such institutions in the new colony as the 116tel Dim and the Urmlmv Couvent The former was established bv the Duchess d'Ai- gtMlloM, with the help of the Hospital Nuns of Dieppe; the latter by a mh and beautiful young widow, Madame de la Peltrie, who devoted her fortune and her life to the welfare of New France. To this day Quebec is f,dl of churches, ecclesiastical establishments, and institu- t.ons of charity. In Um the whole population of New France was not above 2,(K)0, scattere.1 thinly along the river from the Saguenay to Montreal. Of these Quebec contained 800. Then came better days- and Louis \IV, tlcstroying the monopoly of the fur company, took the' colony iin.ler his own control. Immigration was energetiealiv pro- moted, and under the management of the wise Intendant, Talon, Quebec mse into a commercial importance which it took his incompetent and unscrupulous successors a long while to destroy. After Talon's time New *u.nce was ruled by several excellent governors, chief of whom was the great Frontenac; but the business management of the colo' y was m the hands of the intcndants and abominably conducted In October, \m\ came Sir William Phips with an English fleet, and anchoring off Isle d'Orloans, demanded the capitulation of the city' \ cry short war. the answer of the fiery ol<l Governor, Frontenac, and emphatic was his repulse of the hostile squadron ; but New France was ever a thorn in the side of the Knglish-speaking colonies along the Atlanta, seaboard, and the citadel on t'ape Diamond was a wasp's nest by whose stings they were goaded all too frequently. Not unnatural was their demaml for its destruction, and in 1711 the task was a-aia undertaken, this time by Admiral Sir Hoveden Walker. His fl^eet however was shattered by a storm In the Cuif of St. Lawrence ; and fo^ grcRt fiir- <1 its dt'vcl- Hii" David tormain-en- le " Fatlier ct restinp;- e of 1640, ! city, atid id to have us powers ^ got the woiKion to u and tlie liess d'Ai- itter by a devoted 1 this day (I instltu- !e was not juenay to ter days; took tlie aliy pro- n, Quebec !tent and m's time of whom e colo* y -*ted. In ect, and, the city, nac, and iince was long the p's nest, nnatural IS again is fleet, and for m I ^ o- I i: i QUEBEC. sr these two deliverances the parish church in the Lower Town was dcdi- cated to Notre Dame dcs Vidoircs. During the Seven Years' War be- tween France and Enghind, Quebec was finally captured, and the leopards of p]ngland supplanted the lilies of France. This took place in 1759. The splendid victory of General Wolfe against heavy odds has been brilliantly narrated by Ppakman. On the 26th of June came a fleet under Admiral Saunders, with transports carrying Wolfe and the English army. The fleet anchored off Me d' Orleans, which at that time retained the name given it by Cartier, Isle de Bacchus. The French army, of about 13,000 men, under command of the illus- trious Montcalm, was occupying the Beauport shore. General Monc- ton took possession of the Levis HeightK and bombarded the city. On the 31st of July Wolfe effected a landing near the Montmorency River and attacked the French lines. He was defeated with severe loss. Then followed a long and weary delay caused by Wolfe's illness, and not until September could the attack be renewed. Under cover of night the English forces stole up river, under the guns of the cita- del. At dawn of September 13th a landing was gained at a place now called Woljeh Cove, below Sillerfj. The heights above appeared inac- cessi'yle, but they were scaled successfully, Wolfe's Highlanders lead- ing the way. A small French guard on the summit was promptly over- come, and by the time it was clear day the British line of battle was formed on the Plains of Abraham. Montcalm was outgeneraled. He was still in camp at Beauport, on the scene of his victory, awaiting another attack. In hot haste he threw his forces across the St. Charles, and by 10 o'clock the armies were engaged. The battle was short. Wolfe fell mortally wounded, on the spot now marked by Wolfe's monument ; and almost at the same moment the French lines broke, and Montcalm, who had received his death-wound, was carried by the fugitives into the city, where he died and was buried in the Ursuline Convent. The French army drew off to Cap Rouge, and on the 18th Quebec was surrendered to the English. In October the fleet sailed for England, and General Murray was left in the city as governor, with a garrison about 6,000 strong. Now, under the very walls of the citadel, just back of the Dufferin Terrace, stands a monument in joint commem- oration of the opposing generals who fell on the Plains of Abraham. " Montcalm and Wolfe ! Wolfe and Montcalm 1 Quebec, tby storied citadel Attest in burning song and psalm How here thy heroes fell ! " tti< 88 QUKBEO. In the following. Hpring the besiegers beca.ne the bcsi.ged. The French general Do L6vis, with an army of about 10,000 men, defeated Murray on ti.e i>.ains of Abrahan. ; and'the Kngli.i. were nhut u . t »..." the forfhcat.ons till relief can.e in the shape of an English fleet on the ,5th of May. De L6vi.s withdrew ; and soon afterwa .' lad oeame an Knghsh colony. In 11,,, during the An.eriean Kevolutr U.neralHcn.lK.t Arnold, with a snuUl anny, made his fan,ous .nareh by th C/urudurc Valley, scaled the heights at Wolfe's Cove, and la d Hu^c to the c.ty. Two weehs later General Montgon.ery arri'ved. „ the Ust o Deccunber the An.erican forces advanced to the assault, but Here repulsed with heavy loss. The brave Montgon.ery fell before a barncade on Cha,..plain St. The house on Si. Luis Si. to which his body was taken ,s now an Indian curiosity-shop, and one of the points o^^^uuercst of the e.ty. Montgon.ry was buried at the foot of S^/ niii, but the body was afterward removed to New York. J POINTS OF INTEREST. Quebec is often called the Gibraltar of America. The base of the citadel is 33.S feet above the water Tf« f^n^ifi *• m, . """'"^me waiei. Its fortihcations cover about 40 acres. The city ,s divided into the Upper and Lomr Town, which are connected by an elevator ascending the face of the cliff, and by a steep wmdmg street called C6te de la Montagne. The cliff kce is in places' insecure, and not long since an immen.=e mass of rock fell awav, over! whclmmg a portion of the street below. Many persons perished in tins catastrophe; and now, though cosUy engineering operations have been imdertaken to reinforce the cliff, wayfarers who pass alon. Champlam St. do so in fear and tre.abling. Mc .^'ness is HI the Lower Town, by the water-side. The Upper T< , -. :thin the o.ty walls and beyond them to the Plain, of Abraham. Tri '! also the suburbs of St. Louis and St. John: The walls rt . , esV from the citadel to the heights overhanging the St. Charles, and thence around the face of the promontory till they rejoin the cliffs of CaZ Durmond near the Governor's garden, a circuit of nearly 3 miles Some years ago the old city gates, five in number, were removed, bui three new ones, far more substantial and ornamental, have replaced them. These are St. Louis Gate and St. John^s Gate, and theVi' Gate m St. PatHck's St. "The point to which the attention of the stranger in Quebec is first directed is D^cfferin Terrace, which lies along the Lo of the cliff' QUEBEC. 89 toworing 200 feet above the river, and overlooking the Lower Town. Tart of it occupies the site of the old OhAteau of St. Louis, built by Champliiin in 1620, and destroyed by fire in 18;J4 Duffeiin Terrace, which was opened to the public in June, 1879, by the Marquis of Lome , and Princess Louise, is an unequaled promenade over ^ mile long. The outlook frou) the Terrace is one of the finest in the world, and is of itself worth a tiip to Quebec. The Ks/danade, near the St. Louis Gate, is another attractive promenade, and the walk along the Ranjparts between the St. Louis Gate and St. John's Gate, affords prospects rivaled by few in America. The view from the Grand Buftery, near the Ixtvnl UniwrHH;/, is considered by many to be finer even than that from Dufferin Terrace ; and that from the vast balcony of the Univer- sity building is still more impressive. The new holcl, ChAtenu Fron- (mac, must be counted one of the sights of Quebec. The Place d' Amies, or Parade-ground, is a pretty little park adorned with a fine fountain, lying between Dufferin Terrace and the Anglican Cathedral, which is a plain gray-stone edifice surmounted by a tall spire, standing in St. Ann St. on the site to which tradition points as the spot where Champlain erected his first tent. Adjoining the cathedral is the rectory, and the pretty little Chape' of AH Saints. Des Carrieres St., running south from the Place d'Armes, leads to the Govamor's Garden, containinir an obelisk 65 feet high, to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. Des Car- rieres St. also leads to the inner fflacis of the Citadel, a powerful fortifica- tion, covering 40 acres of ground, on the summit of Cape Diamond." * The old Market Square, on which has recently been erected a beau- tiful bronze fountain, is in the center of the Upper Town, surrounded by more or less striking buildings. On the E. side is the Basilica of Quebec (formerly the Cathedral), a spacious cut-stone building, 216 ft. long and 180 ft. wide, and capable of seating 4,000 persons. The extct'or of the edifice is very plain, but the interior is richly decorated, and CO tains several original paintings of great value by Vandyke, Caracci, Lallo, and others. Adjoining the Basilica on the N. are the quaint buildings of the Seminary of Quebec, founded in 1663 by M. de Laval, first Bishop of Quebec. The Seminary Chapel was destroyed by tire in 1887, but it is now being rebuilt. All the rare and priceless works of art were burned. The Laval University, founded in 1852, occupies three very imposing buildings. They are "M * Appletons' General Guide to U. S. A. and Canada. 1 on QlTICllKC. of cut HUmv, ft7H ft. loiif? (the main hulldiiiK •»'•»•« 'i««» ft.), tivo storloB liigh, nnd coHtinK #2 J(),(K»(). Tlu» choiiiioiil liUxn'iitofy \x Hpiu-ioiiH, tlro- pronf, luiil pn»vi(ltd witli o«)nipIotr nppariitus ; tlu' poolo^^inil, inlnor. iilojrioiil, and Itnliiniciil <'(»lIt'i'lions arc very valiiuhlo; the niusi>uni of zoidofry t'i>ntiiin« npwiifd of I.JWK) diircirnt l)irdH and 7,0(>(> inscct.s ; and tlio inus*>inn«>f tlio nirdical dcpailnunt is I'spoi-ially nmiplctf. TI>o l-il>rary numlxMH ncaily »r>,()0(> vohunos, and tlio IMoturo (ialli'iy (always upon (n tho ptddio) Ih om of tlu« i'iclu«8f in Canada, and oontalns nniny important woiks <»f art. On tli»< \V . Hido of MaiUct S(pian> is Mio uito <»f tln> old .frsni/n' Colic,,-' huildin{;s. Mon-in (h/lafc occiipicH tlic <dd stoni< prison at tlio oi»r. of St. Ann and Stanislas Sts. In tltis building ftn> tho library (II, ftOO volinui's) and nmscun: of tin- Quclu'c liitcrary and Historioal Socioty, wiili its ridi oolKu'tion of MSS. rclatinj,' to tho oarly history of tho country. Tho Hiiih Scliool on the Cape has 200 students, an excellent lil)rary, and a small natural history collection. In Donnacounu St., olf (Jarden, is the llrMuliiio Convent, a series of buildings surrounded by beautiful grounds. It was founded in KJHl), and now has 10 nutis, who arc devoted to teaching girls, and also to painting, needlework, etc. The parlor and chapel are open to visitors, anti in tho latter are rare carvings on ivory and some tine paintings by Vandyke, Champagne, and others. The remains of the Manjuis de Mont- calm are biuicd here in an cxcavati )n nuido by the bursting of a shell within the precincts of tho c<»nvent. His sk\ill is preserved in the par- lor of tho chaplain. Tho <;>ri/ Xumirn/ is a spacious building on the glacis W, of the ramparts, and contains about 75 Sisters. The Chaju'l adjtuning tho nunnery is a lofty and ornate (Jothic oditice, with a rich interior. Near by (in St. John St. near St. Clair) tho new Roman Catho- lie church of St. John rephu'cs the largo structure destroyed bv fire a few years ago. The llOtel Dien, with its convent and hospital, stands on Palace St., near the rampart, and in 1875 coniprised 46 Sisters of tho Sacred Hlood of I)ic[)pe, who minister gratuitously to 10,000 patients yearly. In the Convent Chapel are some valuable paintings. The fil<i<'k Xunmn/ is in tho suburbs of St. Roch's. Application to the Lady Superiors will usually secure admittance to the nunneries, Tho Pasl-Ojficeis a handsome stone edilico at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts, On its face is the historic ettigy of " the Golden Dog," I^ ("/lien ,i'0)\ with its menacing inscription — "Jo suis nn chien qni n>nge I'os," etc. (I am a dog that gnaws the bone), commemorating a bitter foud between the infamous Higot and the merchant Philibert QUEBKO. n and Mio lonR-'lclayod vonfrcnnc^ of tlie Itittcr. The tak* has been atnpli- fi»'(l in Mr. Kirhy's loinancc of " Iv Cliion d'Oi." IninnMliatoly oppo.site Ih tlio (^hini il'Or h'rsftinnmf, faniouH for the drciiinHtanfe that tlio nicco of ItH HrHt proprietor oaptivntcd the fancy of NclHon, then captain of the All>cniarlc, whose attcnipled eloiHMucnt with the "maid of tho inn" was frustrated l)y a friendly (inebec nicrcliant. The incident is, perliaps, tlic foiindiition of that roiif^li Hailor.son;j; eaUed "Shan- no(h)r." Neiir by is the CardiunrH PaUtce, u stately iind Ijandsoino stnictnrc. Other noteworthy buildin^rs in tho Upper Town are tho City Mall, tin; Qiiel»ec Aca(h'niy of Music, tho Masonic Hall, and tho (Jarrison (lab, in St. Louis St. On (Jrando Alloc are Hituutcd the Skaliii^'.Hiid{, the hirWmirnt and hrftnrtmvufid liiuldhipii, which wore ben;un in 1H7H, iind the Armory and Kxhibition Ibuldinj,', a beautiful structure. Tlic new (;\)int-l louse, finished in 18HH, is on the corner of St. Louis St. and I'lacc d'Arnuvs. Among noteworthy churches are tho Metliodist (.'hnrch in St. Stanislas St., a Hne spocimon of tho flamboy- ant (Jothie style; St. Matthew's (Episcopal), in St. John St.; St. An- drcw's (Presbyterian), at tho intersection of St. Aim and St. Stanislas Sts., a spacious stone structure in the (Jothic stylo; (Chalmers (Pres- byterian), in St. Ursule St. ; St. Patrick's (Roman Catholic), in McMa- hon St., and St. Sauvcur and St. Roch's, in tho subiu-bs. The fine and spacious Y. M. C. A. Hall ia in St. John St., just without St. John's (»ate. There are a pood library, lecture-room, and reading-rooms, etc., opposite to w liicli is the Montcalm Market Square and Hall. The Jnsti tut (^anadien is in Fnbri(pio St., and in Ann St. is situated the Wom- an's Christian Associati(m. Just N. of Dutferin Terrace is tho head of Mountain Hill St., which descends to the Lower Town. To tho right is a picturesfiue stairway, called the Chainplahi Steps, or Cote dc In Moniacjnc, which leads down to the church of Notre-Damo dcs Victoires, erected in 161)0 on the site of Champlain's residence. S. of tho church is the Champlain Market, a spacious structure on tho river-bank, near the landing of the river steamers. St. Peter St., running N. between the cliflf and the river, is the main business thoroughfare of this quarter, and contains the great connnercial establishments, banking-houses, wholesale stores, etc. St. Paul St. stretches VV. on tho narrow strand between the cliff and the St. Charles, amid breweries and manufactories, till it meets, near the mouth of the St. Charles, St. Joseph St., the main artery of the huge suburb of St. Koch's. On tho banks of tlie St. Charles are the i ' ■i ,i I'l: si 02 QUKflMO. principal nliip ymd^, onw ho tlnlviriK; niul tho niitiioroiiH i-ovoh of tho St. Lhwiviu-o, from Cliuiuplaiu St. to Cap lloiigi., uiv tilled with am-H of viiHt lumlu.i-rafJs. On tlio opposite shore of the St. [.awronce are the popiiloiiH towns of South Qu,t„v, AV«. Uv,rf^,of, luul Point t^n, whi«'h present a seene of aelivit.v searcel.v surpassed l.y the eity Itself! The <')uslo,„-lloi,Hf is reaeheil from St. IVter St. by I.eadeahall St., and ooeupies the vory apex ui the point made l.y the eonlhienee of the St. I.Hwreniv and the St. Charles Kivers. It is an ImposiuK Dorie edifice, with a dome, and a favutle of n(d)Ie eohimns, approaehed hy a lon<,' Hinht of steps. The Marine and KnuKi ants' Hospital, hnilt ,m the modefof the Temple of the Muses, on the hanks of the llissns, is near the St. Charles lliver, nml half a nule farther up the river is the (Jeiieral Jlos- pital. This institution was founded in lOiHJ, and is under the ehargo of the mms of St. Augustine. Overlookinp St. Uoeh's Huhurbs is tho Ji'lVery Hale Hospital. The Finlay .Vsylum is on .^t. Koye road. The suburbs of St. Louis and St. .John streteh S. and W. alonj,' tho plateau ^^' the I'l.per Town, and are constantly encroachin;r on the hia- torie riium of Afnnhnm. They contain numy handsome private resi- dcnce.^ and several Iar}j;e conventual establishments and churches. The best approach to the Plains of Abraham is by (/nnnl,A/i,'r, which com- mences at the St. I.ouis (iate and the Martello Towers, four circular stone structures erected in I807-'12 to .lefend the approaches to the city. t)n the spot where Wolfe fell in the men>orable battle of Scptend.er 18, 17M>, stands ll'(>//V\v Moiiumnif, n modest column appropriately in- scribed. A short distance to the left is the path by which his army .scaled the clilTs on the nif,'ht before the battle; it is somewhat .shorn of its ruirjied character, but is still precipitous and forbiddiii};. On the IMains, near the Ste. Koye road, stands the monument connnemorating the victory won by the (Mievalier do Levis over (Jeneral Muiiay in 17f.O. It is a handsome iron colunni, surmounted by a bronze statue of Hellona (presented by Trince Xapoleon), and was erected in 1854. About ;{ nules out on the St. Louis road are Afomif lln-mon Ccmc/en/, 82 acres in extent, beautifully laid out on irrejjular «:round, sloping down to the precipices which overhang the St. Lawrence, and St. Pat- rick's (H.C.) Cemetery. In its surroimdings Quebec is more fortunate than any city in Can- ada. In whatever direction one tiuns, some point of interest will appear. The great island below the city, already mentioned as Isle d'Orleaus, is rich with history and romance, and is a favorite sum. QtTKBFJO. 88 mer resort for tho citlzoii« of quvhvv. It wftH cillod /«/^ 7. //„rf/i».« by (Jiirti...-, and .l//,,,y„ hy thr I,„li, :;s. Hy tlu- MU|KMHtHiouH hatntnulH it Ih Hlill call<-<l tMff,/<» Sorrow.'^, mui i.s piously bdicvnl to b,. tbc favored roHort of ovory hbi<l of hobgoblin. This supcrsfi,!.,,,, hovvTvor, has not Ininlorod tho fruitful isiaud from Uvaumun tlio m-at <,f many Hourisliinir villagCH, such as ,sy. I'hrn; Si.Jmn, St. hmvmt, St. Firivl, St. Fmnfoin. Tho i;dand is n-aciiod by a forry-stoainer from (Quebec. Tho FallN of MuiBtiiiorency. Krom Quoboc to tlio FhIIn of Montmorency. 1) miics b,.|„w U a doli^'htful driv., ovor tho li.nni.>rl i„m<lo,v, nxuX through an abnoHt contu.uons street of cottages an.l farm-liousoH. Tho tourist wlio i.rofors to mal<c tho trip more speedily and loss expensively may go by tho Queboo, Mcmtmoreney an.l Charlovoi |{. R., which runs 20 miles (h.wn tho St. Lawrence shore to the famous shrini! at .SV. Anur, whither the pilgrin.H flock by thousands every season. Fare to Montmorency 20e.; return, ;mc. To St. Anno, fiOc. ; return, 8Bc. " Tho Montn.oroncy Falls," says Mr. I,e .Moine, in his channing Tourist's Note-Hook "are still known to old Krench peasants as Z« I V/*. (the ("ow) on account of tho resond)ianc<. of their foandn- waters to milk, though others have attributed the name to the noise, like the bellowing of a cow, which i.s made by the roaring torrent d.ning the prevalence of certain winds They present, when swollen by spring floods or by autumnal rains a most imposing spectacle. The volume of water, though nmoh less than that of Niagara, falls froiM ... much greater height— viz., 27fi ft. Heau- port's wondrous cataract may be seen under various attractive a.'^pects. ... I also remember, on a bright, starry night amid winter, coutem- platmg in dreamy-rapt silence a novel spectacle, seldom vouchsafed to guebecers. The snowy ec.ne at the foot of the cataract had been scooped out by an enterprising city restnuratntr, to represent a vast glittering palace, provi.led with icy couches, scats, etc.-a cold bright but fitting throne for the Fn.st King, illumined by Chinese lamps reminding one of Cowpcr's glowing description of Imperial Oatharine\s Russian ice-palace of 1787: ' a scene Of evanescent glory, onoo a stream. And soon to glide into a stream again.' " The Falls should be viewed both from above and from below To see them well from above one must cross the Montnm'cncy Bridye, trav- fv .11 m 94 QUEBEC. erae a field, nnd doscend an intenninablo stairway to a platform which thrusts itsflf out ovor the very lace of the cataract. The view from this point is most elfeetive. To see the Falls from below one must pass through a property formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, and descend the precipitous path called Z,(;fzaff Hill. From the foot of the hill we move along the beach till suddenly we find ourselves in the midst of the spray and tumult of the Fall, and a gorgeous rainbow, so close that we can almost touch it, is flashing in our eyes. The volume of water flowing away from the foot of the Fall seems much less than that of the river before it has taken the plunge. There is a belief current in the neighborhood to the effect that most of the river passes by an nnderground channel beneath the bed of the St. Lawrence, and rises near the foot of Isle d'Orleans. At this point there is a bit of angry water known as Le Tanreau, which is considered very dangerous, and is popularly supposed to be the Montmorency escaping from its sub- terranean prison. On the banks of the Montmorency,^above the crest of the Fall, stand the renniants of a suspension bridge. About forty years ago this structure fell into the abyss, carrying with it an unfortu- nate hahitiuit and his family who were driving over it at the time. The tourist must not fail to visit, while at Montmorency, the famous Nahmil Steps, about a nule and a half above the bridge, where the river rushes madly over a series of cascades, each three or four yards in depth. On each side rises a perpendicular wall of somber -liff whose summits are fringed with pine-trees. Here and there beside the ledges are green and ferny nooks, the delight of retiring picnickers. Between the " Steps " are black and swirling pools whence one may coax a few fine mountain trout. The pcctdiar formation extends for over an eighth of a mile ; and eveiy here and there some vhiife more tunndtuous than its fellows sends up a clond of spray. Hard by is the Fair>/ River, or rE'au Tenue, whose small stream buries itself in the earth to reappear a little farther down. The beach at the foot of .Montmorency Falls is the scene of Wolfe's disastrous attack on July 31, 1759. In at;tcmpting to scale these perpendicular heights, which were defended by the mosl expert of French-Canadian marksmen, Wolfe lost no less than 500 men in killed and wounded. Places of Interest near the City. Four miles beyond Montmorency is the village of PAuge Gardien, with some nice trout streams in th« neigljhorliood, and good snii.c and I QUEBEC. 95 partridge shooting in the autumn months. Yet 5 milo. f„.f' we come to the love,, phm. and apple o.hard of"! 2/"' Here, also, are good snipe-grounds, and there is excellent tZt«h above and belo.v the romantic falls of Sault , la plt *'«"*-^^^»^-g lhera/.o«./VV,.cof the Quebec, Montmorenev and Charlevoi R R :^Z^7^^-;";r '^ Beaupre,other.i;e Icnowln^;:; 1^ «f. .ium. About cislitoen yonra ago tlie parish chiiieli nf S, . was raised by the Pope ,„ . s|,ri„e „f ,|,e L.t o,de of 1 ^ r\::r,irL ei:7Sr "-- --'■'"-- je i„ a„ S..OS. .0,,, ^^:^j::::zi:z:;:iz:'z piteous and supp catin<' dccrenifiifl.. ti i . • ^-^^i^e^'e of lnn„,„er„„lo crLos wWcM ^ " e™ U tT^;: '''"-"^ '"' blind. It IS said, return from the shrinp nt Ht k • , The .nvit rinv f ... -1 • '^^- '^""*^ ^^'th seeing eyes witn Mitli. In the church is a reallv fine nainl n^ l,v r „ n sonting St. Anne and the Vircin 11,!; 'i^" ° ^ ""' ''''P"- ehuroh. in ,6„6, by the Ma' 'de T ay' ^ IITTI '° '"^ village arc the wildlv beantifnl fwis o •* T . ' '" "'" of seven phm-es Tmn, "' , -^ ^""'' """'''' "P "' » ""i'-s below the fullf ■ ' °°" '"'""" "" '»"■'■- """"''''■" above and Cartier, wUh s .eelin 1 1 T.T" •""' '^°' "'"" •'''''"- -d L.En,eri„„„, pai *,; tl^;'* ,';"':;:' "d 'r'" "T'-'- be se , „,„,.„ ,„„„„,, ,„.^ errt^^L'tL:::;- ;'■;;: r ing little company. About 4 miles farther nnt ni ., Hosthe beautim, vi„„,e of C,,l^ EastwaMo 'a.Tb"™'' " ;ta„d the rnin. of a fan,ous, or notoriol ebC 'f "L t K f t^Pe, variously .nown .s ^«„.„„„,, cij;^^; / ^ ^ ,:C f .' I Hi I 06 QUEBEC. Tho ronmnco of this historic stnu-ture has been reproduced for us by such writtM's as M. Anu'uloo I'npincau; M. Marinette, in his story of L'Intoiidant Hipot ; and Mr. Kirby, in Le C'hicn d'Or. It is given briefly as foMows in HoUiwcll's (iuide to the City of Quebec: " At the foot of La Montague des Ormes arc tlic ruins of Oli&teau Migot, ruins which can now but faintly give an idea of what the origi- nal building was, of its grandeur, of its extent, of its secret passages, or its form. Two gables and a center wall, or rather the remnants of them, are visible, and from the fact of there being a sort of clearance, now partly overgrown, we may presume that there was a garden. Ensconced in the midst of a forest on one of tho sloj)es of the Lawren- tides are these relics of the past, and one can not but be impressed with deep melancholy as his eyes rest upon this deserted spot and his fancy repcoples the sliattercd halls and chambers with the giddy and guilty throngs which once crowded them. History has given some few indis- tinct data, and imagination has done the rest for this story of the past. "The Intendant Bigot, whose profligacy and extravagance were tin- limited, and whose rapacity sujiplied his requirements, constructed this cliilteau in the wilils of the mountains; and hither, with companions as graceless as hiujsilf, he was wont to adjourn in every excess of dissi- pation. The intendant was a man fond of field sports, and the ch&teau was the headiiuarters of his hunting expeditions. It is said that on one of these he lost his way, and met a young Algonquin s(piaw of sijigular beauty, who led him to the chateau, and, being induced to enter its walls, its strong doors were closed against her egress, and she renuiined there a j)risoner either to love or to fate. But the intendant was a man of nuirk in the colony, a man to satisfy the longings of any ambitious girl who might wish for powar, and such a one there was in the city of Quebec who was determined to have the intendant as her lord, that she, as his wife, might rule in New France and punish those who had slighted her. Such a one, it is said by Mr. Kirby, in his his- torical romance, The (iolden Dog, was Angelique des Moloises ; and she had heard of the Indian maid at Beaumanoir. Murder is a trifle to such natures as hers, wholly absorbed by ambition; and one night a iiiercing cry was heard echoing through the halls and corridors of Beavinumoir, and Caroline, the mihappy Algoncpun, was found stabbed dead. Not long since was to be seen her grave-stone in a vault of Beaumanoir, with but the letter C engraved thereon. It is said that the mihappy Carolitie was not of full Indian race, l)ut that her father, by marriage, was an officer of high rank in the army of France. Such is the story, not the first nor the last, connected with this place, which has been replete with guilt and caused much sorrow." Q,uebec to Lake St. John. There are two grand side trips to be made from Quebec — that by the Ontario and Richelieu Navigation Co. to Chicoatimi, at the bead QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN. 97 t" (■I.ie,„„i,„i which .ill ,Tu, "'".■"'I'™)' ea-twar,! f,,,m the lake ^» «;*.... .he Jr; J::rt;'; h;:^ " --""'" "»^ the flm,,. nation,, ,,„|j i,; ,, earn „! '^,'^° '""f • ''o feathered, and »oods,of i„yria.l8of daTntv lake, 'm,! l^ , "^ °' ""tl^" tanplod tude of natui „,. the n,us e „f rSlino. , '° '°™" "'o stately soli, absolute Utopia of deli"ht " = "'■^'""' """''> ^>'^ »"d here on uJIfaf S""rS S'Z.;.WT "-f "°'\"- '«" "■■"- n-on messenger back aiul forth and tho n • .• '* '"^'"^^ '*« snortin- caribou, and the runiinai t r i "'P^-^^' the pompous of the brazen fiend ^""^ m^^Hed at the hideous shriek ^^^^;'i^.t they don't stand long-at least, not to any alarming 0.. "ing't!^".ilt.;;J^I:r^;lSfi^;;f i.^^^ ^^^^y-^^^ f-- begm. n.mantic, fantastie spoSc Kr n^ i'" ^"[^^t-^n endless, w^ld, is carved between >naio'l Les iiX m ^H ^''""'^'f '""«« '*« P'^^h' even a hunter's oabin to break rhll "^ "'^i''"^*' "^ '^ dwellin- nor For 4.) nulos it tind" tl c^^Sd u' y aTot'tV' *' ''"'"'"f'' '^^'^t'^"- River, whose turbulent watcrT wZ I"?- *''" '*'"':'''' ^^ ^^e Batiscan ^vith unbridled fie.x-.mess beTwerCrbrrnoT "i'^''^'^'^-^^ dash no indieation of human life is visihlo „W ?. ''■'''^ mountains, while , " It is a Journey to thrilTt^ v ry tf i? I'T '"V^^^'^^^"^'^^' I'oen hemmed by the busy ]mmnffL- ? ^'^'^ ^'^ose days have Pcrfeet breeze that Iwee s in ml. . "«'j^,^''ty, and a breath of the •^">-,l-len with the ^i^JS^f^:''::!:^?-^ through the val- vond measure and price. "•"^■^'"' '» health-givmg and bracing be- In the ear v ev.>i. no xv„ ,1. .1 . "'^/^-P'J. car. per, stroll upon the bluff and gaze ch the journey's end, and, alter sup, aze enraptured upon a magnificent j . 98 QUKBKC T(» LAKE ST. JOHN. Hhoot of clear, white water. Aa far as the eye can reach it rests like a mirror, as quiet and calm as if never a breeze had rimpled its sleeping surfaec. "What a delusion! No more itisolent inland sea can be found upon the continent; none more roarin^r, saucy, and turbulent, none more audacious and tumultuous than this impudent sheet of water, now so bland, docile, and polished, lict but a few careering winds fondle its surface, and the very i>ssence of stormy savagencss holds ferocious carousal. This is Lake St. John, the source of the marvel- ous Saguenuy, and the home — the only home — of the peerless ouana- nish, tiic grandest game-lish, the most prodigious warrior that plows niche water." About 10 miles from Quebec, close to the line of this railway, is the lovely village of India?}. Lorcttc, where dwells a remnant of the Huron tribe. These Indians are civilized and self-respecting, and their vil- lage will well repay a visit. Th(> station for Lorcttc is known as Indian Lorettc. Lorette occupies a bi ozy height 450 ft. above tide, and from this point of vantage we get an unrivaled view of (iuebec, Levis, Isle d'Orleans, and the valley of the St. Charles. Beside the village thunders the picturesque cataract known as the Falh of Lyrdtc. Sixteen miles from (Jucbec we cross the lovely Jacques- Cart! er River, already re- ferred to as famous for its trout and salmon pools. In the valley of this river is the village of Valcarticr, which was chiefly settled by re- tired English officers and soldiers. In the village cemetery, deep in the heart of the liaurentian Hills, lie no fewer than nineteen of the veterans of Waterloo. A few miles farther and we reach Lake St. Joseph, a fair water much frequented by Quebecers in the summer-time. The lake is 22 miles long by 8 miles wide, and the mountains that encircle it, clothed richly in birch and maple, beech and ash, come down to the water's edge. Hither and thither over its bosom, for the delight of the sum- mer traveler, plies the steamer Ida. The waters of the lake, of a won- derful tr:nsparency and depth, abound in black bass, trout, and the voracious " togue "—a species of thick-set lake-trout sometimes reach- ing 30 pounds in weight, and to be captured by trolling. There are good summer hotels on Lake St. Joseph. Five miles beyond, the rail- way touches the shores of Lake Sargeant, once famous for its black bass, but at present spoiled by over-fishing. At St. Raipnond we cross the river St. Anne, whose valley widens here to receive the charming village. St. Raymond is the center of a great fishing and shooting district, and nviy profitably delay for a time the tourist whose passion QUEBEC TO r.AKE ST. JOHN. 99 workshop, „t the railway company. A little l,cl„„ ,he vilh^e Z »»voro and ™lo,.,„l noencry, an tho IMI, &^„„,„, IZ^Tr Z from Qncbo» tl,o railway ontors ll,e valley of iwT^'- , '''' i. follow., for a dintan.^ of S< IZ^^tTZT"' "'■"" ™""" i;..ly .fine, e.peeially a. the point, wherf IL' . rirZoi^d'ri" ;. —. .t tLrenrer:;, :t::^rri: , "'" '"'^- -«• »^««ois, 22 Jabrique St., Quebec Ahnnfiio .:r.:^: tt:;::? r: t r r-' rf ^"-^ -'"— ^ peculiarly fl„, and impettLL:'*: 7 """' '"^''"' "'"■ ° -.. ...own ,y .he „r„e ^n «:t:rr Tr,:!::;^! t:Lrr"r^ii::t "t;"-" i"^™"- -^^ "^ o^«nedr t :: obtained. The wa er, „rtl r,^ .' ° *'' '■'^"'^''' "'"- ">«>• >« I..* deep hay, and inlet.,, a, yet pli^,™ l: C "ilTt""' r„,t ^""/.'■"'. """ ""'■''-''™ "•"« "'on. Q..ebee the railroad ,|,.r.. Of the ,a.e u:i:r!:^:zyZ7 """-^ -" '-^ -- ^^"^ i.i 100 QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN. Lake St. John. The Lak« St. John Territory extends from the head of navigation on the inver Saguenai/, at CViicoutimi, to the northern boundary of the province of Quebec, a distance of 220 miles, and from the sources of the waters flowing into Lake St. John, from tlie oast, to the river St. Maurice, embracing the valley of the river Badsecm, a distance of 200 mil'^', =he wh^lo worming an area of 44,000 square miles, or about 28/,-; ". • acres. Comparatively little is known of this great country, with ■■ exception of the valley of Lake St. John, wliich, within the last few years, has been colonized with groat rapidity, and now contains a population of some 40,.;00. The soil is almost universally composed of rich, gray clay, whoso fertility seems well-nigh inexhaustible. The climate of the region resembles that of Montreal, being more temperate than that of Quebec, and with a much less heavy snow-fall. The lake itself, called by the Indians Pikouagami, or " Flat Lake,'' is 28 miles long by 25 miles broad, but for the most part not more than 80 ft. in depth. There flow into it no fewer than 19 rivers, chief of which are the mysterious Peribonca, 400 miles long, the Misiassini, 300 miles long, and the Ashuapmonchouan, the "river where they watch the moose," 150 miles in length. These are navigable for steamers for distances of from 10 to 20 miles from their mouths, after which they are obstructed by rapids and cataracts. The river Ouiatchouan is famous for its magnificent falls, which lie in a most conspicuous and impressive situation about a mile from the lake shore. This cataract is estimated to possess a height of 280 ft. All these gathering waters find nn outlet by one great stream, called La Decharge du Lac St. Jean, which at Chicoutimi becomes the Saguenay. This stream is divided by Alma Island, for the first 8 miles of its course, into two branches, called respectively the " Grande Decharge " and the " Petite Decharge "—the former of which divides with the Peribonca the honor of being the favorite resort of the " ouananiche." This famous fish, whose name is spelled with a truly Chfucerian breadth of variation, has quite eclipsed in reputation the other denizens of these well -stocked waters. It is thus effectively and exactly described by Messrs. L. M. Yale and J. G. A. Creighton in Scribner's Magazine for May, 1889: " In appearance a fresh-run salmon and a fresh-run ouananiche do not differ nmch more than salmon from difterent rivers. The back of QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN. 101 I on a trout ; i^^o^:^£ i:^:^;:?^^^ te X^, ^'^^ --"^^-- numerous and loss sharply defined • fI,P n.f, i, ' p^ '^-'"''^'■^8 are more green on the gill covers are krlV /I ''.n.''''""'^^ P"'P'e. «nd are several large ronn f bh'cl sSs \"'T ''""''""*' '^"^ ^^'*'' ^^0'" bright hues getllull 3 t o ™i ?. /, .^ *'" '''''''' S''"^'"* "'•*'•"> the lo.*^>r jaw of' the spaCiL ^h^^^ *''" •'"•' V^'^' ««'«•• '"^d hooked the salmon, feeds Sntinum sv ^..f? ^^'i ,^^' '^' «"ananiche, unlike than salmon lie in, U ha a S^m- > "'"^'h /'f"vier and swifter water pound ouananiehe can leap hS and n^^^^^^ and arger fins, so that a five- a te«.puund sal.non. The vaSty of it^t^l^t, 'S-">°"'''^' '"^' ^^^' "^e those of the trout and those of VlLi '''^^'t^'/'''*'^' "'^ » compound of own, give, great charm oouaLnichf""r' ""''^ T'' P^'^"Jiarities of its 3tyle from the ' floati"" ^'Z t?n v hn ?" ."^V""? ?PP«'-t»"ity for every salmon cast. It ?akes°the flv ren Ji v [' '''■^^'\ 1"'^ '''"^ ^'^'' ' «f the trout of the ZTJ^trai:^:„Sie:"z''' "'"? '•"■«" "'»" " inches Ions, twelve hlhe,^ in rirth a d ^^Is^'lT'' ' '" 'T'^"™ salmon. Now and then «n\lij^ « i. V ? "'"' "" cifc'ht-nound - .^. the. are intSl/^ ^ J^t^Ji;^ ^^^^^b^lK^^ absolute sSve feign of the wrterv^I-in.f. ^°^ ^"' ^"P*'"'^' he is the for the first timnmmil h7f^ h^i^-K ^^' 'P.^^'*"'"^ mendous leaps andTc y stn,' oSi s ZV" ^"^'^^'•"d^d at the tre- vigorous contentions arJLouln' whi . '''''*'', antagonist. His turns a complete somersault n' til- - '' ^''' '^ ^^^' *^^ '"'" '^^ fierceness of an enrac^^d S' Th ".'"'^/hakmg his head with the that one seen. t^b^fi'g,;trAhe fish'in Ihe' h '''"^P' T ^^ ^^"*'""-« • • . In the sprinn- they are°bXr1urr, T ""'."' "''^ ^' '" ^he water. suckers, and I wal toW th n todc tho 5 '• '' t''^ ""^ '^'' ^>^'*« "^^^^ «f various kinds of flies I did notle « ' «,\'"/""'' ^"* ^'^^'^'^gh I tried I learned that Jul? was the n^o or tfn^f' "/ ''' "• ''''' ^^fterward the fish rise with avidi y Thc^ S ites fish tJ ^/-/'If^'^g' ^"^ that then two pounds, and the heavies « t.?il i J'""^ *^" ^° ^^ ''"^ weiglied took thirty:eight, and could rldfvh"'^'';^,^" 1^""'^^^- ^" ^^^ ^avs I enough.'" *= ' ""''^ '''^•^'^'^ ^'^^e taken many more, but I had M^^!^^r ''' ^'""^ '' '" '^^^^ ''- '^^hn, is a reserve of ontagnais Indians, a most interesting tribe, of whom Mr. W. H. H. jlK -t^^ ■ 102 QUEBEC TO LAKE ST. JOHN. Murray (Adirondack Murray), writes : " They are the ' mountaineers ' of ancient times and wars, and dwelt among the Laurcntian Hills. They were a brave stock, and they and the Esquinmux of Labrador were never at peace. The mounds of Mamclons, at the mouth of the Su<ruenay, could tell of wars fought on them for a thousand years, could their sands but speak. The Monta^nais at Roberval are very dark of skin. They arc great hunters, skilled trappers, great canocraen, and runners. They are a racial curiosity and worthy of study on the part of the in- telligent tourist, and the sight of them and their peculiarities will be entertaining to all." The tourist who contemplates doing the Lake St. John region and the Saguenay will do well to procure Mr. Murray's romances of " Mamclons " and " Ungava." The accommodations on Lake St. John are all that could be desired. The Hotel Roherval is excellent in all respects. Its proprietor has se- cured from the Provinciixl Government the excli'sive fishing rights of the lake and it« tributaries, with the double purpose of protecting the fish adequately and of affording the guests of the house free fishing facilities. A branch of the hotel, called the Island Home, has been established on an island in the Grande Decharge, in the midst of the fishing-pools. A fascinating and thrilling canoe trip may be taken from the Island House down the tumultuous river to Chicoutimi, to meet the Saguenay stream. This trip— not designed for the timorous- hearted— may be made for |10, which includes the hire of birch canoe and two Indian guides. The Hotel Co. keeps on hand a supply of camp outfits, which may be obtained by tourists who wish to go into the wilderness. Such a wilderness may be reached by ascending al- most any of the inflowing rivers for a very few miles from their mouths. Here are regions where not even the lumberman's axe has gone, and where one may follow no footsteps more civilized than those of the Montagnais trapper. The close season for ouananiche begins on Septem- ber 15th, and lasts till December 1st. The return ticket from Quebec to Roberval costs |7.60 ; and for sportsmen, in parties, there are special reductions made, with certain privileges as to dogs, equipments, etc., to be enjoyed on application to the General Passenger Agent at Quebec. Besides the ouananiche, the fish of the Lake St. John region, speaking broadly, include salmon, maskinonge, speckled trout, great gray trout (or togue, or touladi), bass, pickerel, white-fish. The Quebec and Lake St, John R. R. is a new road, excellently constructed, and equipped luxuriously in the most modern style ; and one may ride in a palace DOWN THE 8T. LAWRENCB. 103 car into the very heart of the.e ancient northern wildernesses, so Ion. magmed to be a region of endless sno.v. The line is now Extended rom iUe ake to Chleoutin^i, enabling tourists to make the round tr p from Quebec and back in twcnty-four hours. Down the St. Lawrence and up the Saguenay. The steamers ot the Ontario and Itiehelieu Navigation Co. leave Quebec at a comfortable hour in the n.orning, arrive at ladou.ac, at the yecnai, mouth, some little time after dark, ascend the mysterious nver by n.ght to ChicouH.n, and then, leaving Chicoutimi in the " y mornmg, descend the Saguenay by daylight and afford the traveler a t'urnt;r; ?• ^?^"«^^^'^'"^^'y- '•'he fare to Chicoutin.i and re- turn ,s $8 The trip .s one never to be forgotten. If the day be fine Toil of '' T' .™ *'""'* "'" '^'^^^ '"^ departure and await the return of sunshme-the journey commences under delightful auspices. The transparent morning light and crisp air bring out the full glory of the enchanting city. Greener than ever appears Isle d'Orleans nLe beryl-bright the St. Lawrence tide, more white and cloud-like T'skvey curtain of the Montmorency Falls. When St. Anne's is passed 'the em .irrr"'-'""' '""'^' ''' "^^"^ f-biddingly upon the north- e.n um of the river, rising hundreds of feet, in places, sheer from the water's edge. These Laurentide Hills are sometimes nUed, sometime lad with somber forests; but here and there they suffer a Httle valley 1 Z/'-'' TV"^ '"''' '"'^ ^'"^-^^ '''' ^'^ '^-y ^'^^^»«h village and glittering chapel spire. It is a sterile corner, indeed, where the hardy and frugal kabi^ant will not make himself a home, aild multiply Thet'rnT " TTl '" ''''^ ' "^^'^'"^ ^■"'^ h'^ '-'^y - the gate The e ht^^^e secluded settlements are pnV.itive in the extreme, and re- p oduee.he Norman-French life of two centuries ago. The atmosphere of the Laurentian Hills is not hospitable to chamxe, and most of the influences of mutability pass by on the other side of the river A little below the foot of Isle d'Orleans we pass, on the^N. shore water s edge. Then come the granite masses of Cap Rouge and Cap vtolntlv d ^!" ' *'" """' '' *'" ^''^^'^^''^ «''-" thev rushed T:^ tZ;^lJ^:!' Penshed in the se, had no s^ch leap £oucharf R u "'^''"^ ^^ 3/aeYforrf comes in the Bouchard R^ver, up whose valley extends the populous village of 8t. ii m ""«i* HiUllltHi 104 DOWN TIIK rtT. I.AWUKNOK. Fraiifoh XitvifW, Aftor puHsing T'd/) l^u/xiir, tin* hU'iuiht lioftvos to, tc iiii>(<( tlic Ixmls wliicli 4'oiii«> out rroni tlu> tliri vilify M(>ttl(<nHMit of >sV, /*im/',v Hill/. Stniu' of tlic liiH'si HociUMy of tlu' liver's iiortlivr!; hIi(»i'o is i\l)«)iil. tills jutiiit. Tli«> viilU'v lU'H oprii lK<fon' (ho truv«'lt>i''n oyos, Tlio rivi'i-H (ioufirfMui Moulin open iuii;;iillin>nt vistas into tlio stmiif^o itmnlry l)iu'l< fn)iu tlio ooiist, wliii'li scorns a sou of niountaiit-pfiilis. Tli(> (iisti'ict is a volniiiic otio, subject to treiiiitliii^s and slioel<s, and ahoniitiiiiu in curious salt ami sulphur springs. It is .^^aid that in I7!U a peak lo the notth of the village vomited smoke and llain«> for S(>vcral days, while the country round about was tormented with eartli(|uaUcs. In llWilt the disturbances of this re<i;ion wurc much more violent and tcrrifyiuj;, anti at /-<.<( /'.'(>oiilniinitn{vn'\\ named), a few miles farther down the coast, nuiy still be seen the tracks of the frijrhtful laiul-slides which n)ad«> such changes in the face (»f the landscape. "The St. Lawrence ran white as milk as far down as Tadousac; ranges «d" hills were thro'vn down into the river, or were swallowed up in the plains; earth- (piakes shattered the houses, ami shook the troort till the litdians said that the forests were drunk ; vast fiss\nrs opened in the ground ; and the iH)urses of streams were changed. Meteors, tiery-winged serpents, aiul ghastly specters were seen in the air; roarings and mysterious voices mounded on everv side; and the confessionals of all the churches were crowded with penitents awaiting the end of the world. ... An earthquake r(u»tcd up a niountain and threw it upon h/r au.r (\uiifn'H, which was nu\dc one half larger than before; and in the place' «)f the mountain there appeared a gulf, which it is not safe to approach." This hh' OHX Coutltrs lies with its head olT />'<///>/. /'on/ and its lower extremity otT /-«•.«{ h'fumfnnaih. Hctwecn its shores and Hay St. Paid is Lr (tonj'ir, where the water suddenly attains a depth oi" 30 fathoms, and where the meeting «>f the Hood tide with the river currents makes a vast scries of etldics and miniature v.hirlpools. Of old, ere Le (tOKj^W had got Hlled vip with sand deposits, there was a mighty whirl- pool, or siiceession of w hirlpools, at the spot, ami it was indeed " not safe to approach," as the ancient chronicle declared. The district is rich in iron, pbnnbago, limestone, and garnet-rock. The island, which is be- tween ft and (» miles long and about half as wide, is thickly peoi)led with a tho\'ougldy laedia'val farming population, t'te (piaintcst of the (puiint. It belongs to the Seminary of Quebec, to which it was granted in 1687. The vilfaffc of Z<w h'boi(leineiih, which we come to next, commands from its lofty peivh a uiagnlficent view up and down the river. Lofty IH1WN TIIK ST.' t.AWKHNCK. lo:> •» it I., ti„, .i„rk „„.», .,f M,. i::i,„„i, , „,,,.|„„|„ ' '"■ ""'-■• '»- "'■ "■"■••«.• m.™ „„„.„ i,„„ u„. „„ „ «■,„;!"• ,"' ' ."";' ""•■'•I''"!' i» 'I'o 1"""' "f Ml. i;:i,.„,i,,,„..,„ ,„,.i „„ it, " row .s . Uw,™..,.. Thol„,visv,.r,.,l,„ll„„, ,„„,,|,..v „,.,„,„ ,. t . I„ ,l,o,, ,.(, ,|„. foot of ,|,„ „|,,,„,i,„ ,,,„„„„„„ „ - .low,, ,„o, ,.|,„„„„„i„ ,,i„,„.|,^ ^„„ ^,^„^,^, .^ «,I t, ;. ' : ""••"'■ """„: - "-™ v.., ,,. u M „ ,i„. ,;,,:;"::" 118 the A/unuu, mvrr aii.l the (.'miwf ami IKH, r ,,. . , ' v.,..luroa, ,1,„,,., of t: ::"' , ° ,,^"'''"''™■*». «l'« Prot.y ,.„,! u,H'oi,i|,i|.|(.,l N»ti,iT ,,„d vi,..,- ,;. i . . ' ■ • ■ ™''.'»rc™viigi)auil tos.sc.d about, hoa pod up in U th fn, ? Z. '' ^^^■'■""''' ""*"''^'' "a-n, uc-ar a Volcano thit fro t o^ "" ,*'" ''*'^' "^ ^''^'"''^d inhabitants.'' *" ^"S»»ten, but not to ondany,,- the ron.antic to ni^i^T'^"" ''" '*'"'"*-*'■ "'""^^''^'^ *^'« «^- Lawrence diagonally to Rivi6re du Loup (so called from the droves of seals oi-Zl --..S that of old frequented its shoals), a distanoo of Z \ Z ' K-ore du Loup is a thriving town of about 5.000 inhabH^:'::, 5 : 100 IX)WN TIIK WT. LAWUKNCK. Ih the point whtTo tlio Intorcolonial R. R. \h joined by the Teminoou- ntii It. U. Tlio town iH pifturc,s(|iu'ly Hifimtcd on lii^^h liind near tlio livor-inoutli. Near (he town arc tlic pit'tur(>M(|no h'iviih'r </u Loup FhIIh, wlitTf till' Htmini niakcH a fine pliin<,'(' of HO ft. into a doep, (pilot basin in tlio rockH. Uivii^ii" du Loiip Is a pUniHai.t Hninmer renort, and Ih wi'll Hiipplicd with hotels and boardinf>-h()iiHi>s. Six nillcH from Itivii^ri' du Lonp is the famous siimnu'i- resort of C'acouna— probably the most famous in Oanada. It lias admirable hotel aecoinniodation, fine beaches and scenery, and a remarkably cool, bracing climate in the hoftcst montlis. The chief hote' of Cacouna Is the St. Lain-mce //nil, which accommodates tmo guestH. The Mamion Home is com- fortable, and very moderate in its chargoH. Still cheaper are the numcr- oiiH summer boarding-hou.ses. Anything but moderate, however, arc the cab charges for the drive from Hivii'ic du Loup to Cacouna, unless one takes the wise precaution to arrange terms before starting. Cacouna stands on a remarkable rocky peninsula nearly 400 ft. high. From Rivi5re du Loup the steamer strikes diagonally across the ;t. Lawrence again, for the mouth of the Saguenay, passing between Hed hi a»«/and the /immhf /his. Tadou.sac, the ancient village at the Sague- nay mouth, lies about 185 miles from Quebec. It was visited in 1536 by Oartier, who saw many Indians fishing off the point, and heard from them a marvelous story to the effect that by " ascending the Sague- nay you reach a country whore there are men dressed like ua, who live in cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." In 1543 Roberval explored the river and left moat of his company in its awful solitudes. The mystery hanging over the fate of Roberval and his brother Achille, who undertook another expedition in 1649, is not lightened by the intelligence that remains of an ancient stockade and post have lately been found on one of the wild rivers emptying into Lake St. John, and that these are supposed by some to mark the last resting-place of the daring but unfortunate explorers. One can under- stand the dread fascination that must have been exerted on those ad- venturous spirits by the Titanic gloom of the great river, together with the strange tales of the Indians and the reputation of one of the tribes, the Nasipiapecs, for marvelous and invincible powers of magic. These Indians are thus described in Mr. Murray's romance already referred to : "The Nasquapees are one of the most remarkable families of In- dians on the continent, and of whom but little is known. Their coun- try extends from Lake Mistassini eastw.ard to La!)rador, and from Un- DOWN TIFK HT. LAWUKNCK. \()^ Kava Httv to the conHt'nioiintnirM r.f t»... g» i in Hizo, fine foHtuml, >v tl " ,| . ul v ''7'""^"^' They are hm.uII nn<l foot. Tlu. uJu'^Sa. :J^^^ ","'' «'Xt.emoly H.null |,«ndH tliat it rivals tluMl...'r sS , ' . i " T"'!' "'^ '*'"•''" ''^ •^" "^'-'te tion. pocuiia,- to ..„ mc^in-'^ ;"&;;": i"fT "'■"""': 'ir'"'''^^''- tl.c... and i.ani,,J t(, huoI. a m1 .,. ..•''*' •"""«^''>">''ally an.o,.- KHatorn oiigin." ' ''"" ''''J't'""" l">int to a remote I" mn) a tm,liM«-po.st was estahlished at Tadousac bv Pontcrn.v/. n. a n.o..e t..adin,.po.st and .iHi.in,-station the plac" ronu . d i i »and.,„„„„ds, which ri,„ i„ ti„, .„ ,:.,i;: ',000 ft „?"""'• the sea-green water of tlie St. Lawrence Pin.*, .n *. ? ° »i. Ml iJitYitiice. i^iose on the wcstom pilim ^f the village yawn the black iaws „f the S>,m» < T " crossiiKT fv.^^ V •' J r ^ngutnnii. A.s the steani'^r c s.ng f.om A..^.v rf„ /..,,, approaches 'Jadon.ac wharf by n,oon I'glit, the .cene is one never to be forgotten. ^ The Saguenay. m THK HAcnrKNAY. (Iio boat ('liml)H mtillnviinl (|«>t«p«>r and docpcr Into this liiiul of nijHtory. NVrapiu'd in one's rnf^ — l'or, though it is July, iiii u'.v wind draws down out of tlio norlli tliroujrii tliis ^voni tiouitli—anii croucliinf,' Id^ii in tho plow, »uu> IVcIs as if lu< were on a journey \u'\oi before attempted by nu»n -us if lu' were about to i'xpi;)i(< llie fabled !al«> of Mistassini, or venture witli ilason and liis i'»<llo\vs on tlie sliip Ar|j;o. Mere and there a jj;reat star peers euriously down tln'(»ut:jli stune Idgli noteli in the river- wall, «)r Home far easeadc, the overllow of ii momitain-pool, llaslies whitely in the moonlif-ht for a monu'ut as it plun;;'es from one darliiiess t«) anolluM-. When the etdossal <;loom and ).;randeur of the scene have be«j(un to oppress the spirit, tlie traveler will do well to turn into his berth, leavinj^ ilireetions to be ealled as the steanu'r apprnnehes (/ll^'^>lltilni. This will be about daybreak ; and as the steamer usually remains an hour or tw(t at the wharf, there is time to go ashore and see the villa>j;e. Tlie best possible thinj; to do is to elimb the roeky heij^ht behind the villaiie, and wateh the sun rise in severe spleiulor over the bald Saj;uenay hill.s. Ibit, before undertaking this, find out from the eaptain cnuf/i/ how long the steamer is going to stay on that partieular trip, lt>st it happen, as it did onee to the present writer, that while you are admiring the sunrise from the hilltop the steamer depart without y«)U, and leavti you, perehanee in marked ih\^hnbiil<\, to linger shivering in ('hieoutin)i till the eoming of the next boat, or to drive wildly over the hill-tops in a Juad Kreneh (-aiuidian " buek-board," to endeav«)r to overtake th(> truant steamer at lla lla liaii. When this nushap befell me, with a friend who was in the sanu' predieament. the latter eourse was ehosen; the drive was a eold one, for our attire was hnsty and ii\formal. and a desperate one, for the road was astouudingly preeipitous and diversified, the Camulian pony as nimlde ami erratic as a goat, and the ''buck-board" driver reganlless of I'onsecpU'nees so long as he earned the prouused fee. Hut the experience was iu)vel and thrilling; and we got thi're in time to sit on tlu' wharf at St. Alphonse and smile at the steamt>r blandly as she eame in. The town of C/iiauitimi, now eonneet*'d with Hoberval, on Lake St. John, by rail, is a center of the lumber-trade. It is a growing phuv and povssesvses good hotel ucv'onunodations. Its trade is largely in the hands of the great buubering firm of the Trices, the head of which, l^enafor Trice, of Quebec, is known as the " King of the Sa- guenay." Close to the town the Chicoutinii Uiver joins the Saguenay by a fall about 50 feet in height. This river is ati outlet of Lake K,- TIIK HAOUKXAV. j^Qj) ^J^<«m; and affordK capital fishing for trout and Balmon. Tho name hioontimi Hignifics dcq, wattT. ^ no name rrom Chicoutlinl to the Mouth. y.i, cleft l,„. nr. ,.„ i|,r.,„„l, tl„. I.i^-l, r„.un.„tian ..lalra,, lt„ Su J... 1.;,. 1 1 • ginn HontudeH are Hhnnnod .i«lr; ,,;::;;■'■ '"" 'i"""" "'■' -""». - »— iitii ginit depth, appear as l)laek as j)iteli vvitli i...,.nl.. „i , " «'l"ti'm l,o,.„„u. o|,|,rwsivo t„ »„rao visit,,,-,. A ,»,1tui- i„ iho '■" ""■il t.. il, (1,0 Dead Soa is l,l„oi,.i„.. " • ',,„ "" '" " """> •'F>, or drannng-anything, i„ short, to alter its morose .n.ie TlZZ Zpa '; -H. t* : "^ '^'-'-^ "'-^ ^'- "- ;>-ii'^ "^oi^ w '^■' "'"■' '""^ " J"^*"'''' «" t''« banks of either would be preferable to one on the banks of the Sa-^uenav " The ,1 Sa"-ueiiiiv i>4 .•.....^^,■ .1., i •^•"^ ► 'iniitnay. 1 lie name NV^'Zf, •';'''.'''''* .."satisfaetorily derived Ircn^ "St. Jean >-/ and from the Indian Sag.ishseknss, n.eaning a "river whose !r r ""■"^"•^•;' ''^^ '^-^ "••^'""••^'^ *"•• ->-^ '^-^-tion, l: r -n -r '•^"'7"-" t'"^t the village of Des Joachims on he Upper Ottawa IS popularly ealled "Swishaw." '^ I'^'om Chieoutimi, as far as the mighty inlet of /fa //, /? .i Japneiout their bare front. A little way below Ila Ha Uay sly; we pass, on the right •"fir I ' ! 110 THE 8A0TTKNAY. slioio, a cIKT 000 foot liifjli, oallcd Lr Tnhlcan from ltn Rrcat, perfectly. 8ino()tln>(l, sciuaio front, liky a caiivaH stretcluHi lor palntiii{?. J'"artlior down on tlu» sanic sliore is l^tatm Point, " where, at about 1,000 f«!et above the water, a huge, loiigli (Jothie areh pves entrance to a cave, in wliieh, as yet, Die foot of man has never trodden. Before tlie en- trance to (Ins bhu-Ii aperture, a «ii'^antie rook, like tlie statue of seme (lead Titan, onee stood. A few years ago, during tlu' winter, it gave way, and the jnonstrous statJie eame erasiiing down through the iee of the Sagueiuiy, and left bare to view the entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages." Cnpe Trinity niid Cnpe IHeriiity. Having left beliind Statue i'oint we ap|»roach the dinuix of Sague- nay seeiu'ry, the twin ('apes Trinity ami l<:t<;rnity. These giant cliffs, the one 1,('.00 the other 1,800 ft. in heiglit, watch each other across the black gulf of Kternity IJay, a narrow liord wherein the soand- ing-Iine must descend 1,000 ft. to rcadi the bottom. The drcadftd sub- limity (tf tliese promontories, springing sheer from the l)lack depths of the mysterious river, compels the reverence of the most inditFercnt. The northermnost cape justifies its name of ('ape Trinity as we ap- proach it from up the river and observe that it consists of three mighty precipices, each noo or tiOO ft. in height, piled one upoi» the other, and fringed along (he beetling top with windblown |)ines. On the side overlooking Htcrnihi liau (lie aspect of the cape is difl'erent and vastly more terrible. The steamer roinids in so close to the base of the preci- pice that one feels as if he could toss a pebble up against the wall of rock ; but for a (ime no one is so hardy as to attempt it— it would seem like sacrilege. The noisy crowd on the steamer's deck is hushed with awe as all eyes strain upward toward the dizzy height which seems (o reel and topple above them, as if it would descciul and close the gap. When the instinctive tremor of apprehension has somewhat passed away, a few of the passengers usually attempt to throw a stone across the in- tervening space. As the unssile is lamiched vigorously into the air, it seems as if it would strike well up on the face of the cliff, but the eye is utterly deceived by the stupciulous mass before it, and the stone cast by the most vigorous thrower falls into the water, as if repelled by the elitf, before it has traveled half the distance. Cajjc Eternity is per- haps '200 ft. higher than its terrible sister, but it deigns to slope a little back from the water and to clothe its sublime pronortions in a THE SAOUENAY. Ill hon oi of Cape Trm.ty ti.e eye rests with delight on the serene and stable ,.ande,u. of its colosnal nmte. lietneon the eapes there i'a 1 .MHO of Wales „p the r.ver, one of her heavy 68.po,uuk.rs was dis charged near Cape Trinity. "Kor ti.e space of hal a minutror o" e. the discharge there was a dead silenee, and then, as if t e r port and concuHs.on were hurled back upon the decks, the e hoes came down eras upon crash. It seemed as if the rocks and erags had aT Zg •nto hfe under the tremendous din, and as if each was firin^^ H8-po Id ers full upon us in sharp, crushing volleys, till at htst the^^-ew hj: "'^ the tale of mvaded solitude f.on. hill to hill, till all tL distant mo mt ains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion " Sf It"! I '"''"\'r'r" ^>« ''^'"-'y ^'- <-'li"« part to make room for St Johr,s By, whK-h has a little village at its head, and water shalh.w with trou and game. Then comes RirUrc am Cananh with a nu ." berof grnn and inhospitable islands clustered off irs mlr I li," «o low land, bordorin, .„e „,„,uh „,■ ,h„ », Margnc.Ue. .^H he S„g„„„ay'. chief „.n„„„,y .,„i „ ,|„,.„,,y ,„|,„„„ ^^ ;;= » the mouth of the St U/utn^^r on,i />>• / ^ ^ assing i?*/V with a littl Till TV ^'''^'' ''^ ""'"^ *« •^''^'- ^^''*^«"^ to!ethl and h " " ""* '^^^ '''"• ""'''' '''' ^'''^^ ^raw closer /^2 , . u ""' ''''^' "^ *"^^'''''"« ^''^P^' «f S'-^nite called Fointc la Jiontr wh.eh thrusts itself out as if to bar our way. Toward du" we pass L'A„«e a L»Ea«, then 7^a,ousac, an.l find onrsehes on L e r:^: :r "^ ^;ea Uwrence, having descended frr(^:.Z and wp t' ^" • r ^"'^''''"'•'' ^^*- i« a distance of 135 miles "r b'kiT" '' ^^"'S^'^'-^ing at Quebec in comfortable time' 1 i 112 QUEBEC TO THE MAEITIME PROVINCES. To the Maritime Provinces by Rail. ''''le favorite route to the Maritime Provinces is by the Inter- colonial Railway, which runs down the south shore of the St. Law- rence as far as Rimouslii, then turns south and follows the valley of the wild Metapedia to the junction of this river with the liesligouche. Ciossing the Restigouche we are in New Brunswick. Another route to be described presently is by steamship via Gaupe and the gulf coa?t.. The three Maritime Provinces of Canada are Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island, and the Intercolonial Ry. traverses them all. It is a government road, admirably built and ecjuipped, an(i most moderate in its charges. It runs through some of the best fishing and shooting districts of the continent and some very beautiful landscapes. The cars on through express trains are lighted by electricity and heated by steam from the locomotive. The head- offices of the railway are at Mondon, New Brunswick, and information may be obtained by communicating with the Chief Superintendent or the General Passenger Agent. The fare by rail between Quebec and Halifax is $14 ; return, $21. Quebec to St. John, N. B., $12.45 ; return, $18.70. From Quebec to Gaspe, via the Intercolonial Ry., $10.30; re- turn, $16.23. Quebec to Moncton, N. B., $10.70; return, $16.05. Passengers for the Intercolonial leave Quebec by the Levis Ferry. As the train runs down the St. Lawrence shore from Point Levis we get a last glimpse of the Falls of Montmorency across the river. Five miles from Levis we pass Harlaka Junction, and 9 miles farther St. Charles Junction. The next half-dozen stations are named for as many saints. The most important of them are the lumbering village of St. Michel, whose church contains some valuable paintings, and St. Thomas, a town of about 2,000 inhabitants, the seat of a convent and of Montmagny College. High over the town towers its great parish church. At this point there is a fine though not lofty cataract, where the Riviere du Snd falls into the St. Lawrence. These falls are the scene of a thrilling episode in De Gaspe's romance. The Canadians of Old.'' The villages of Cap St. Ignace, V Islet, and Trois Sauuions are interesting for their connection with the same romance, the scene of which is laid chiefly about the next stopping-place, the ronuintic little village of Si. Jean Port Joli, 59 miles from Quebec. The next stoppage of importance is at the thriving town of St. Anne de la Poca- fiere, the seat of a large educational institution known as St. Anne's op 8 a. (. fl OI re ar mi Of na I WBBEO TO THE MAKITIME PRoVWCES. 113 College, which is attended bv Bevenl h,„.ii..A . j Agrienltural College and Model 1 ""''"'"• ""' *"' " porpoise «,he,to ^ ZifoZiZ '"""""^ """ "• ^'"^ ""-"""^O already referred .o. He^ tS "iT nT"""--^'""' '»"•■ "-» the head of . band of his Zuhi . °"™ °' '''''*™ ""<■"<■. "' Sir Willia:„ Ph "'"' 3 *;°T' "''T'^ ""' New-Euglanders of .« in sight i„st':r.h:e:s: Tr, eVr^ofr™* *-• Its great church and convent wa« „ . -^ ° '"'"'"'■"*'^^"' ^'^^^ «-n. Of travel ^••rJTh:ZL'ZT.^Z:Z': r"'' ''' nearest to Kamouraska is SI Pa^Aal Th, ? • Inte,eo,onial place is Riviere du Lmm Lui "'" "»P»"ant stopping, town is 1,6 ™Is f 0^ Q ;,:'■* :: "7 "'r^ ''-"Ihed. "Th^ .0 the upper wate^of^ h„ w J ^ X ""h" t'" '° «° ''''^"''^ streams of Lake TemiJZ.rZ .. / ' *' "P'""*" "•"»'- b7.he Rivi.. d„ r„r. ;;eti ::,s:Tt\Th''™'"™*"« the district in question an,l ^ J 7u t '' "^^'''^ »""« thr.ujrh Canadian PaeiSc'.rZrjIlte st" J^h"""? **'"" "'■ '^"^ Riviere dn Loup is (;„««„„, .Ireldvdeltd jh I,' '""" '''^°"'' of importance Is Troi, pLlt. ,il : ""^ °''=" »"'"™ trains su,p twenty minute" t' r^reshrn.™" i^""? "™ *» dining-han of the station one m.v"t„frs,' /? :" "" ""•'''P' trout. The village stands on Irive of Z\ '""' f^^^'-sU tradition in re^rd to thi, ..„ ,?• """' """"=' ""<■ there is a t-o river was ^^ nllt sXv er : t tV".''?'" ""°' "-"^ «olila,7 asherman what he woSd tkl t 7 I " "'"' "*-'* » Pi'toles," was the reply " What T, !. '' ."" '^""'- '"^'■'''' the traveler. " I, has m,n. " , u ""'"' °* ""' ""'" ^ " "'ked Trois Pistoles" lid LT' f" l'" ''""'"™''- '""•- "™e i' franc pieces ' ' '™™'"- T'™' P"'"'- '»™. three ten- «4if :::;;: rn::Tc''e:dt f *'•• "■^ '- ^ --■ or two from the's.ation ^h^L." s Inr^V" ™"" '"'"" ""'' resort of Bio, situated „„ /„"„, ''WnS-Place is at the summer around Ble a. , .^ ft" l^^Z Tf th^""'"' "'■ ""'' """ many cascades, two small ri "er^ ^o „, , ■ ^'^ ''''""'=' '''='''™<'. '■• Off the coast is Bic land „ '! ^^'r""' *« "t«rs of the bay. nable fortress ^ TLl^Ttt " f f "'f *" "' """'' '° ""P«^- 8 """^ °' "''"BO for the French navy, [n 1861, ■fw 114 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCEa. when the Trent difficulty threatened to cause' a rupture between Eng- land and the United States, English troops were landed at Bic. Near by is U Mel aii Afassacre, where once 200 Micmac Indians, while asleep in a cave, were surprised by their inveterate enemies the Mohawks. The Mohawks stealthily filled the mouth of the cave with dry wood, then set it on fire, and slew every Micmac that succeeded in making his escape through the flames. Ten miles beyond Bic is the important station of Rimouski, an incorporated town with a large and growing trade, a poi)ular summer resort, and a port of call for ocean steamers, where passengers and mail from the Maritime Provinces embark or land as the case may be. Rimouski has good hotels, a fine Roman Catholic cathedral, a college, and important public buildings. In the Rimouski River and lakes in the neighborhood of the town there are excellent trout and salmon fishing. Rimouski is the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop, and is sometimes called the metropolis of tlie Lower St. Law- rence. Fiv^ miles beyond Rimouski is ^Si^. Anaclet, the station for Father Point, where outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. A^' Ste. FlaviCy a railway divisional center 198 miles from Quebec, the railway sweeps oif southward from the St. Lawrence. There is excel- lent trout-fishing in July in lakes about Ste. Flavie, Presently it crosses the famous fishing waters of the Aletis. At the station of Liltle Metis, 5 miles back from the St. Lawrence, one is within easy reach of a num- ber of excellent trout lakes. The best months for fishing in these waters are April and July, and the hotel, like the guides, will charge about a dollar a day. Two hundred and twenty-seven miles from Que- bec lies the little village of Sayabec, near which we strike the waters of Lake Metapedia. There ?ve no regular hotels in the village, but board may be obtained of some of the villagers, who also may be hired to act as guides. There is good trout-fishing in the lake, in the winter months through the ice, and also in June. The next two stations, Cedar Hall and Amqui, 8 miles apart, both afford excellent fishing. The village hotel charges are moderate. At Cedar Hall the fishing is in Lake Metapedia and the Metane River, and the best months arc June, July, and September. At Amqui the fishing, both for trout and salmon, is in the Amqui and Metapedia Rivers, and the best months are June, July, and August. Fourteen miles beyond Amqui is the famous fishing resort of Cansapscal. Here there is splendid salmon- fishing in the Metapedia River, which flows close by the station ; and in Lakes Angus, Michaud, and Causapscal the trout are large and ween Eng- Bic. Near liile asleep Mohawks. dry wood, making his important id growing steamers, &rk or land m Catholic ; Rimouski c excellent m Catholic ;r St. Law- station for pilots. A* ! lie bee, the e is excel- y it crosses Aide Metisj of a num- g in these v\]\ charge from Que- the waters Ullage, but ly be hired the winter stations, nt fishing. ! fishing is (lonths arc ' trout and st months qui is the lid salmon- ition; and large and ,11 QUEBEC TO THE MAMITIME PRoVIKCIM. 115 rating mth the A„4m™ Commi«imcr of the IVovlnrc in whkl. tl„. brnjo the a, „, J„„e .„d Aug,,,.. B„„,.<, is ,„ be had h, p,.ivata A» the t,-ah, „h,d» for hoara <!„„„ the ,„„„„„, „„|| , , close be.,de the track, sometimes fa,- .,„,„„, „„ ,„„:, „,„ ""™ .nd darts, „„„ leapin, „ ,„„ ,.11, now swirli;,, slowl, , ad 'and sah„o„.ha„nted ,,„ol, no» h.„gl,i„^, „„d ,.ipp|i;,, „ J ^^l 2JZ ter. Ihe „ver „ f,.,„ge,j i|,„„^,,, ,„„,, „j .,, ,. ddcrand moo,e..ooda„d „,„„„,ai„.a.l, ; and the hill. „,,!;;;"' ■najes ,c slopes on eithef hand, elcft he,c and there h, the eo „e of a w.,.d,ng mcntain st,,.am, are clothed ,.iehlv wi.h fore t, „( bhd c a ers of he mou„ta,„.asl, bcn-ies shine along the water's ed«. i„ v.v,d ve,™ilion. Along this valle, tl,o stations a,, fe. a"d ar be twecn. The nearest to Causapseal is r,ea.a,U Bea^h, and hen l^J Am„,.(,„„^/,»„. Passing Mm «„„„, „ ,.„„,^ ,; J/^l 290 Kestwouche the bcmdar.v between the provinces of Quebec and ^aw Br„ns,v,ck. In cssing the ,.ailway bridges he,. ,ve get" ne v,ew from the car-windows up and down the valley. From ftuebeo to the Maritime Provinces by Steamship around Gasp* and the Gulf Coast. ^«»"'« , but on every alternate Tuesday morning a line boat of the Q.^*ec steamship Co,npan, leave, Quebec for G^jL.i adjacet^t ports and co,,,,,n,esdow„ the New Br,,„s„ick coast to A.V.,/:S Lee to^.m,ner^,le and CharhU„.nm in Wnce Edwa,.d Island and o ^,*» m Nova Scotia, whc-e she arrives on Satur,!„v This is a comfortable salt-water voyage, lying nearly all the '"ray hro. -h waters that are rarelv vnwh tj.« ^ ■^ mrouglx about the wild eiafo;X^ -.X""'" ^■''"■-r"'™'"''' -t-i--. -,K laiC- lu uusp« IS ^lu; return, M \ i |H 116 QIIRBKC TO Tiri<; MARniMK I'Il()VI\0K8. fift. Tho fHre to IMctoii Im |10; return, $24. Those raton Inclmlo iiiciiIh. Tlio voyam* down tho Ht. liiiwn.ni'o an far hh Fnfher Point hitH hocn nliMMuly doHoiihrd A littlo way \wy^m^\ in th«> whaling vllhij^o of Afrtis, Hitiiatfd riglit op|Mmltt» the Htrangcly nhapcd Maiiii-oiia^ian I't-nlri- Hiilii, which lillH up tho HpiioiouH l)ay at (ho inoiithH of tho ,i,'roat Labrador rivors, MuiiiooiuiKaii and Oiitanlo. Iloyoiid Motirt is tho hinidiiK' and huiiboiin^' vina^oof Mafnnr, whoso hroad, Handy hoaoh nifnnU deliKlit- fid opportunilios for l)athin-t. Iloro IIowh in the Matano Uivor, fainouH for itH tn»iit and siihnon. Far olT to tho Honthwost, rising,' out of tho hoart of tho (iaspo wihh'rnoHs, wo noto tho h»fty HUiiiiidtH oaUod tho ('apH of Matano. Tlio St. Lawronoo hore in over JO indos in width, but it luirrows aj-ain to 85 ndloH as we approaoli Cufte Chntfe, ',i\\ nulos oast of Matano. At ('apo Cluitto is an important lij^htliouMo. Near lioro tool* plaoo, in Juno, HS'H), a naval l)attlo botwocn tlio Knf/lish ship Abi- gail and a Fronoh war-ship ooinniandod by Kinory dc Caon, whioh ro- Hultod in a vil-tory for tho Kn},dishnian. Tho Vnpvt is nainod for Kyniard do (llni.sto, (Jovernor of Dieppe, who in 10o« sent out an oxplorinj,' and colonizing' oxpodition whioh was led by Pont^iavd and Lescarbot. Twolvo or 1ft nulos eastward «;> round Capo St. Anne to the village of .SY. Atnu' r/r.s- Moufn, the oontor of (>xtensive mackerel, cod, and halibut fisheries. In tho adjoining river, tho St. Anne, trout and salmon lit- oiiilly swann. A few nulos back from the coast rise the lofty St. Anne Mountains, whoso chief peak reaches tlio height of '1,000 feet. Those mountains are a spur of tho great (Jaspesian range called the Shick-shock or Notre Dame Mountains. The old chronicler Lalemant in KMS wrote as follows : "All those who come to New France know well enough tho mountains of Notre Dame, because the pilots and sailors being arrived at that part of the great river which is opposite to ihose high mountains, baptize ordinarily for sport the new passen- gers, if they do not turn aside by some present tho inundation of this baptism whioh is made to flow plentifully on their heads." From Cape St. Anne to Point PImrcusc, a distance of 28 miles, the coast is but a wall of towering cliffs. Eleven miles beyond is Cape Mafldchuue at the mouth of the Riviere Magdelaine. All this region has furnished themes for the wildest legends. The name Pleureusr is suggestive enough in itself. The superstitious sailors and fishermen of these haunted coasts toll of the piteous lamentations they hear Le BmUlard de la Magdelaine — which they ascribe to a damned soul include nut hitM illiigo of I) I'oniii- >alirH(lnr liiiK und iluli^lit- faiiioiiH t of the lied the (1th, but iloH OHHt >ai' Ihto lip Abi- \k'\\ iT- Gymard itif^ and ■foarbot. 11 ago of halibut ion lit- )fty St. W feet, ed the ilemant i know )ts and ppositc passen- of this les, the 3 Cape region 'eu«e is lennen hear — d soul Il Gaspe Residents returning from Church. i QUEBEC TO THE MARIxmE PROVINCES. U7 seeking to tell its torments, ft is usually supposed to be the soul of a murderous wrecker— for ^nm^ nf n.„ ij ^ . reout»,fon ,= Ki ,, . ' "''' «»'P«»i«" "reekera earned a reputation as black as tliat which clings to tlie wreckers of tKr w J coast 0, Newfoundland. Others againrof a n,„ e ecdcsTsti J turl o .n..g.nat,„„, declare that the wailings are the pcnite,^"rof a pnest who „i„M,,,„ffereJ a little one to die unbapti J The It piteous of the tales is that of a wreck on this iron coast in which It one person eau,e to shore alive. This was a baby boy, who"a^^cry,n' all n.ght m the horrible desolation, and died because n^ help can ef probable explanation of the weird voices mav bo found in he wave oometo C-Woiw, an nnportant settlement,' and the scat of a lar^e branch o the great ashing arm of Robin & Co., which has ts held S^XoTtll st°r"" "'. ":' *»^-«.™-«".es calhd .* J5cyiia ot the St. Lawrence." Here lies the villa<»e of Pnn^ r«.- Which, with the neighboring settlements of ol^^, cJZ.Zn^ Sons A, tins point „c may be said to pass on. of the gates Tf "ht ■St. Lawrence, which is here 96 miles wide. On the cape stLds a li-h, louse of stone 112 ft. high. Due N., like a stern se„«rel ^ua tg middle of the river's giant mouth. The isle is no less than 11^ mil.! in"! ir th'e ' ""'. ■"" 'r "™ '"-' "^ -^'**. °i'pe.™ Within T " P""'""'- "'" °'"°"» <^™«1. *<! soil Sterile i>land , but these, having come to the verge ot starvation were latelv removed ,„ the mainland and kindlier surroundings. N^wX „„t Iw , Tl , '"""« ''■'"'°°' """ 'h" i'lonl streams abound with trout and salmon, r,s do its barrens with feathered game Six miles beyond Cap des So,ie.., we reach the vast proiectln- promontoryo, Cape G«sp€, which thrusts out into the (Mfrf"f i;r?.; '°"'™=' ™p"' •" '^"<'»'»- «w «■ « h "« ^L itltt n'dilr ""l'.'?™" ."' '-^ """'^ "-•' peninsula, Tscrl™ fom the Indian word "Gasepion," applying ,o , lonely detached ,x,ck 1"0 ft. high which oaee rose out of the waves off the e«r...,.i,v ofTle cape, irom its resemblance to a statue the ««;eal ed this i^k ]18 QUEBK! TO TIIK MAKITIME PKOVINCES. ii /.. link. The ,.e„,oIo88 battering of «,„r„„ h„, ,( ,, ^ „ haf S, of („pe fi„,„« ,.i,e, „„ p,„„,„„,„ j ^, « ' between them lie» the deep inlet „f «»//,„„, „|,i„h „^," 'J°f ."laml, and keeps a, its head the secure harbor of gI'I", " r„„7,? "" "" *". ''"■'■ "" ■"""' °" »"' rii-"" '!« Porilou. shore,, of ,„h ",'"•. "■""■" "'" ""' P"" f"™-ly»l.o„ the wind drlw' I «:t i„h fl °-'^'" :'""■'' "' *^ '^"^ ■' ">'■ """"« °f ^''"^'- rhen the bay narrow,, and round the natural breakwater of C; «eh we enter .he harbor of G..p, Town. Thi» is „ gro'in! phee h he„d.p,„rters of i,n„,ense cod and maekorel fineries and the eh ei mvn on the whole Great (iaspe reninsnla. It has between MO and 900 .nln,bj^^a„.s,a„, usnobleand uni,p,escen.,v,„,atch,esss„m„.erdlT and the magmfieen. tront and sahnon fishing of the adjacent M an,i D„rt.„o„,km.er., have attracted the attention of traveZ t"! town ,s possessed of a comfortable hotel, the 0.lf H^^ t flsW opera„ons are chiefly in the hands of the g,.at hrn, of Le fcuS l!ros. Iron, „s wharf a fortnightly mail stean.or runs to K^^ZZ B«„ on the coast of «,W»,.. Its piers are thronged with scl ler" and an occasional whaling.ship. The surrounding fields are Zfu »y boung. On a lull overlooking the town are the guns of Fori Ram ribicJ:;:: ""''-".r'-"'" '"""''*°" ''- -«'"° ■■ad.nad: Lt : e.able .advances n, cv.h^at.on, perhaps from intercourse with the Norse ucieuth t«eltth, and thirteenth centuries. In 1634 Oartier landed ::r ,r;: iT". r'V" '"" ""-^ "' "-^ ^'"^ °' ^^^nZ^T, of 20 f- ;'° "'«/™'-*-'« upon it. In 162V a Fr nch tt^H o 20 sinps of war and transports, carrying emigrants and „ gre, quant, y of sto.es for the colony at Quebec, was driven by a storm to take sbelter in Gaspe Ilasin. Hither they were followed by .^111 o^thVivnir'i •"?""; """^ "'° """" '''"''' ^" "•' ""-' - °a den w th eli "' ""■'"" ""' "' "" """'' """ *'""" «« °*<-. la.len w,th captives and treasure, back to England. In 1760 fiasni was taken by Admirable livim. i. „ •■ . " "o", "aspo J ^luiuii.ioit ti>ioii. At one time the oen nsulq of Ca., z:z::r:' ""■' " 7r° '""•'""'■• -^ °-"^ ■"* '>■- -f account ol its scanty population, was soon reanncxed to Quebec, QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 119 ^schylus called " a 3*^0.0^ to hi ,• i^'r" "^^^'^^ ^hJch stern, and was Por..; .^JTSL ^X^TT^^ Beach and Soutl/L ,/ p oi^^.f^ *"!, ^^"'^'"^^^ '^d Xorth rising behind the vi^::^toX ^^ 7 V'-T'' ^^^^' agates upon its bleak red slopes Ly bf h.d ^ T '""'' ''"' in eastern Canada The mo75 'J^ ^ . ''"' ""^ *''" ^"^'^* ^^«^« sula lies Just off the v l^ ^ P^r Thit""'"V' ^'^ ^''^^^ P^"^"' Rock. Itisthusdeseribed bvMr J GAP '"/^"^^^^ P«'ce Canada : ^ " '^- ^' ^- Creighton in Picturesque endX'iagh tlfe'^cfSs'ofMlTj^^^^ ^f -^ «- to the ture Island, 2 miles out a sea co linS thoT!? '"^' ''^^ °^ ^°"'^^<^"- Denys, that once there was no bre^k in .., "'^''" *''^'^'*'""' S'^'^n by Jich-huod conglomerate, where tKirnnS'K' P«''P^"d'«"''^r walls of bright olives and -ravsonimo«Vl ^^ '^"'''^"^ «f sandstone, the vvhfte quartz, andSp.otn"rstab'o^fT' t'"''f'' P"^P'«« «^ J-P^r! against brilliant blue sky S erne ildsef ^''"'^ *'^°''*'^^''' ^"'^' ^^^^-'^ tion of color; but the^wTves wUh unh.'nl * ''""'^''""^'' "^'"b''^^' ocean, beat fiercely on this marvHm « ""^'"'^«" f «'eep from the open down the three grand arehe Denys aw ^ '"^*'''' "''"^^^^ b^«<^'«d CJhamplain savs there was mil vn^! ^" ^^^^^ ^^^^''^ before Denys Bloop under ful/S TopJ ^^ou^h ' ?/'' ""' '"P «"*^"^'h for'a opening, 40 or 50 ft. hiX MaLv >L/k ^'T^* ^''"'"'^ '« ^ut one which theinimensearch at theoS.. irV!'; *^' ""^'^^^ «'''^s»' with dawn one morning about forty ye rs, "^!v^*^^ '''I' ^«" .^^«t before great monolith that formed iti abutmS' S f '' t "^«""'»«nt the sea are doing their work • hev havl T ^'1^ '*"*^ '''"''^'^>' wind and than a coupl^ of f eet in diameir I-n.f ?" 'Tl^''^ '"^P^^^''''^' »«* '"ore the- eclipsing wave-crestfrhc md f.^l °\r "fJ' '^' ''''^'^"'' ^^'^ «« beach where you can land aUow idl l /^', """^^ '^'^« ^^ « tiny anation to troid on the pH,^ Tj± Tnd i^ ™ ^7- ^.* '^ "^« '^ P^^^" whose oyery roll tosses up mil ion 'of nehhlP '^ ^ f ""'"° '"''^' ""^^'^ rarest jewels. .Alyriads of fnilTl f bWes for the sun to turn into distanci looks so'hid aL wea h^ r worn t/''' '' *'" '"'^'^' ^'"^ '-^^ ^ besque in richest velvet InThh litflT ' I appearance of an ara- sight of everything but he wa e an the ^k^'M" ^^ '^'' ^''^ f'«™ cries of the countless birds St tenJL.^ ^' '''?' ""^ ^'«""d but the of the surf as its thundero ,s b ss 2A •''^' ■'^^''' ^"^ *^" '""«'« est treble of clattering "e^blt'lS" S "-^'^r' '"^""^-^ ^ *-^- d..am td. the great, green rollers, thl^^g^wlSS' a^^l^^^ji;;? ill ' Hi ''I I'! I! fi I' i 120 QUEBEC TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. ^ Everywhere else the roc Lfstr^H?t f^l^ ""f '^'^ '''"'^■ of 'm ft. At its western end if T? ?™ '^'^'^ '^''*^' *« * l^eight straight and clear<.u a he prow of In'L*" " ^'^"" "^ ^^^-^P ^^^ singularly resembles in outlne if Iv "" .^'"'".^n^e ironclad, which it long and SOO ft. wide Its "n is co7p 1h ""i°'"" "'^ •'"^^^''^^ ^^OO ft. visible because of the in n eS flocks n? r" ' ^'""''^ ^"* *^»^ '« barely in serried order. Each Sinhabi s it/nJ'^^f ' ''•"^"'^ ^'™''-^« '"^^S^d morants never mingle wS The S^^^^ *'^« ^lack cor- graceful terns keeiftheir o Jn n lacis ^ f Jnl ' "''"' ^"""*^*^ ^"^ ^^e ders into the ranks of another n bo" thlL"^ P'esum,)tuous bird wan. and flapping of wings tHriveawav th^^^^^^^ f tremendous .creaming incessantly, circling high "vci The chon^ t',; ^-^'^ '^'^^^ ^°d go deep to seize their prey" thev swnnn „ ''!, ""[ ^^''""- ^'^^ Plunging far out on the ban) s; \hov ?ol oTtLTlJr^-^^ '^^ ^'^''' ^' ^'^^hor packers are at work ;tev flit r ?e beach where the silvery mocrHght th^ fisherme ^o^ 'nouest'of ?> T "?^" '" *»'« storm their shrieking is ahnos. Irntr/hl:^ itl t S fo^3.^ AmeLlfp -vX^atfthTB ^T "^ ^^^^' ^^^' ^^^^^ ^ «-* of Which two^f ttrelt^'rwl^^^^^^^^^ ^"^ ^"^--' ^" between Perc6 Rock in,] fl,. / • ? '*^^'"^'" P^^^^^ now Despair. This i, a ™„e of JrccI,, ardTe^H ""'"'"''' "'" '""" times when wind and ,p« ,™ ! . T. «*emen say tliat some- fai wave., r„l n„ L , 11, k ' ""™ """^^ " '''""' °' "^l- quiet again and the sea lies still »„rf -„■!• °!,''"""'°- Then all is eare,iesK,.hin*C„.,vi;^" "ITS; t? """" 'T '"^ i-o™. .fc;«;:/„Xl; *; "i^;f ;•" """se of *.;«., a„d i.„„„d wreelted with the oss Ifal „„ h . '™'"'™->'l'iP Coiborne was uejond Pomt .liaijuei-eau lie the quiet and lovely nd palaces, eal. to a height sharp and J, which it id 1,600 ft. is is barely ies ranged black cor- ts and the bird wan- screaming le and go plunging at anchor ft'hcre the en in the ey rctu-n ?ked mass During a )r miles. a fleet of gence, in sses now ft. high, ne miles 'und the ;he Eng- to Cape It some- f dread- spectral ng ago. ? to his nd roar n all is )m the Gra d round le was of the lovely QDEBEO TO THK MAEITIME PBOVINCEB. 121 arrires on Saturday; tliese nl»,.., „fii . 'I ''.,'"'' ^"'■^' «^m she .no.„er route, and'he," „" T 11 a IhonT, "" '" ™""""°" "'"■ -e ..aee, „. iute-est a,„„, .,e ot; ^ o 1^0:,:;:'"' *"" .mpo,.,a„t fl»hn:;r;o,a?r r, Ttr """■"=" ^"'"">- - locally Paspv Jacks H„!. !"'°" .""" '"'■ab.tants, „ho are nicknamed *e i.,,z'z':) t":'vV:!e' : ra^'p^^i'i'^' """ "••'■ '- jasper known as (iasp« pebbles The Wh "^ "pcc.mens of breakwater i,. the ror^'ofrid^eltt.ri'r 'I,''' f "''''-' tages of the village crown fhp nUff , "" ^''^ *""* ««*- the .reat red ^.^^Z^^:'^^::, 'Cl'.T "T " ratntioncd. The headauartor, nf n • „ ™7 ^""^"^ & Co., so often «.els,e„uersey; Tn^^ri': s' rth^irrrfhls'^J'th' ''' "" are required to live in single blessedness. PaTpebL tldf """ P=rtant post „1 the Le Boutilliers, and its ^r y e«„rt of h "" ""' m TO ue to over «250 oi¥) u ""■' '•""J' "^^P"" of flsh amounts Jlfe".pcdiarLlhTZe2l(lT 7,"""^ '" ""^ Intercolonial at Beyond Paspebi e neTthe 2 Hf th'eB"'' " '"'""" °' '"" "■'"'■ tie town of ku, Oartkl ITT . Bonayenture Klver, is the lit- loyalists. NeT, Z^lTr "" r^'" '" "«° "^ ^"""^ ^^Pire and^.. .,.r::;x:rrr:t:rtr^r^"'r" Mar a flows in tho /a,.««^ i-^ ,. ^^^^^^ to L>alhousie, Near ».os. *a„onVLw o,s inr:r;ir Hr.r "* -'- ^""^ »' "■« Generals of Canada have thdr fill t lod " L^hT ™ "7'°°'- summer resort of thp Pp;„. t • ^ ' ^ ^^'^^ ""'^^ * favorite p.«i.ent AK^uraL" fr:re::rMrLreas.":'V" "r-- ».tebed o^e?; tt VTc'k^rCd" "' ^ '"" '""^^ " vent, and exten'sive herring, "her esr;rn-, V ,'"«" ""- we reach the fertile y.l]»r .ff ,1, v „ '" '"'y'""' Carleton ice-cold watir de ce>,di„! f ""',f o"™"' "i™'- a beautirul stream of for their ^^and etfb TJ .T""'"'-"- "» "»"' ■» f«™ns by an American rZ— . ' ''"""™'" ""^ """ " ''^ased J, , ■J"'!."""'- Continmng for a few miles ov„ . .,„,. ,. .,„_ reach the Eseuminn/. »!..„_ .. ■ .. .. ..ingv or lulls we ii-«.ummac Kiver, a smaller stream than the Nouvelle, which ^^^wl^yW,*! 122 PROVLNOE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. contains trout of unusual size. This may be fished by arrangement with the warden of the river at Escuminac station. A little beyond lies the mouth of the Rtstigouche, and either at Mctapcdia, CampbelUon, or Dnlhousie, we may bring to an end our journey in this direction! The fare by rail from Mctapedia station to Oarleton is $1.62 ; return, $2.81 ; to New Richmond and return, $3.81 ; to Paspebiac and return' $6.31. ' I !: i PROVINCE OF NEW BRUNSWICK. New Brunswick is first of all a lumbering, ship-building, and fishing province. She also has heavy agricultural interests, and her great min- eral wealth is beginning to find development. In shape the province is nearly a square, the seaward sides of which are washed respectively by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Bay of Fundy. The center of the province is yet for the most part a wilderness, threaded and dotted in all directions with lakes and brooks and rivers, and abounding with fish and game. Till about a century ago New Brunswick formed a portion of Nova Scotia or the old Acadian territory. In 178^, on the influx of the United Empire Loyalists, it was erected into a separate province. The history of Canada may be said to open on the St. Lawrence coast of this province, not very far from where we entered it in our descent by rail from Quebec. It began on June 30th, when Cartier sighted Cape Escuminac on the gulf-shore of New Brunswick. Coming from the bleak, forbidding coasts of Newfoundland, which he deemed to be Cain's portion of the earth, this harsh corner of Acadia appeared to Cartier a paiadise. The wide water in which he found himself was MirmmeJd Bay. Not discovering the Mlramichi itself, whose mouth lay hidden close at hand, behind long ranges of sand-spits, chains of islands, and intricate shoals, he landed on the banks of a lesser river, n,> identified among the thousand such that overlace that region with their silver courses. This stream rippled shallow over its gleaming pebbles, and swarmed with trout and salmon. The woods about were of pine and cedar, elm and oak, birch, willow, fir, maple, and tamarack, and the sailors' hearts rejoiced over such unlimited possibilities of ships. Where the woods gave back a little sp?tcc, the ground was covered with wild fruits. Great, melting strawberries betrayed themselves to the lips by their red gleams piercing the grass. The bronze-green blackberry thickets were heavy with their yet unripened fruitage, and the wild pea r ivJ :? provin(;e of new bkunswick. 123 i™.n.nele<l hi, f„„,,,„„s „i.h 1„ rope, „f ,„„.„,„ .„,, p,,,^. .iunu.,al,lo Nock, streamed pa,t and darkmcd th„ air fh" , ay awak. a. „i,.„t a„., ,i.e„„,, „,,, wondc,. .„ .,... , i f .,„"::' w^, ilZ pT"" "", "'"*• *'"■'■ "'■'"'°-=™- --'■ "»- X' 11, r ™'' """ ""■'" "'I""' "'^'-l.'' »''""« 'he >■'!'-■■'> of the 1K.0 . A,„l .he |K.o„lo p„».o,,i„g tl,i, land were friendly an^ fa Beanng n,„H,wa,.<I Carter's woaihe,-.,l„rke„ed sails were soon wat. ."g h,n, over the faires. bay his eyes had ye. rested npon Zvlte': jere clear an green, and searco rippled nnder the , eep s„ o"^ J« y. No roe ft, no shoals, b,u here and there a darlir™ sZd asleep on the sleepy tide. On either hand a long reeedhurCe „f ft -Lores drawing closer together toward the wo's am 'I ,g ' '^S ^ITlhe'^r': T- ,'° ^~' "■" ""' """"=- '" - Cha e„„ ,C I : """ """'■'' "'' """ ^»'''- '"""'^^J " Bale de, l^na ears. Here they passed some days verv sweetlv in indolent ex P oratton ,n trading with the hospitable Miemacs, in feas.i^! on LaT tniy barte ed the clothes they wore for trades and trinkets Then Cartter sailed on to the north to discover the St Lawrence The fir ? ...en,pt at settlement, however, was in the extr^J "n west of t e of Vew fZTT^' '" ' "" "'" ""^"''" ""'"ig^tions of French, reft lilt ol""""""' """ °' *" ""'"•■" Empire Loy,alis.s, w,ll be iticuea to m othei" connections. ^ , ^^ The Restigouche. The name Restigouche signifies the five^ngered rivcr-so called ucbee and x\ew Brunswick like the fingers of an open hand Sf but difficult of access on account of its almost continuous ranids ami ^^«m has had .ts name providentially condensed by the lumberman into Jotn kedgcwick. The cour^n of fi,« ^> .■ / . ""«^"ndn mto bv falls or imn^= V Kestigouche is nowhere broken by falls or unpassable rapius; and its strong, full, unflagging current lL>f TIIK KKSTUJOtrcllK. mnkort it u innyriiilloi'iu stiviim for llio onno)' iimii. Itrt Hiiliiioti.(iHlit>iioi« HIT riiiniMl tlio wiM'M ovi'i', ami iiir for ilu> umM part in tlio lunidri of llMliiii',' i'IiiIm iiiatif ii|) of woaliliv 4'atiailiaii ami Aim-iicaii aii^,'lorH. Tlu' l{i<sii^.uii'lu' Maliiuiii is rt'uiarKaliic for iiin .^i/.(>. Jh- is a very tlif- r««i«'ii( llsh from his follnwH of \,/>ini,f,(if iuu\ .\tir,iinir/ii. Ih> iloos iiioiv of his liKhliiijt umh>r wnlcr, aii<l iisiiallv talirs tlii< tty wlioii it in la-low tli«' SIM Ian', l|<> Ims lufii mntic tho siihjirl of a lniuhl artido III ScrihiHM's Maita/iiif lor Mav, IHSS. ( ■ i^aiilic ami iiiai^iiili«*oiil as he is, ho is «M|»iici..iis ill his appolilc, ami rin|iuMilly wlu.|i hi' is most las (|iiit(' t'rli|is('(| tliat of llu' iiolth' i> roiisoli' tilt' tlisap|)oiiiti'(| waiitt'il he is not tht'r»<. Mis fame 1 l!t'sli,i;om'ln> trout, who is alwavs on Iniml | llsht'inian. 'I'lic Ivillin^' of a Hcsli^'oudif salnioii is thus vivi.lly (Ifsi-rilu'il in liu' ariirlc just ivlViicti to: W «• pass around two curves in the river ami liml the lieati of I lie pool ourselves at the sti'enm, about 'Jo ft. : llie eiim'iit Kirst east. tt» the riv:lil, sliaij^ht across carries tlie !ly down with a sciiiieireular sweep until it couies in line with the how td' tl com! east, to the left, straii'ht across the siieaiu. with the san., motion; the semicircle i.s completed, and the ll.v han;is <piiverin|j; for a le eaiioe. le few seconds at the I •west point id' the arc. Three or four ft. of I ari' drawn from (he reel. Tliird i-asl, to tl ine u' ii_-ht ; fourth I'ast, to th es, le left. Then a littU' more line. And so, wiiji widening halfeiieh llie water is covered ,i;radiiall\ and vcrv carefully, until at len'.;th tl auuler has as much line out as his two-handed rod can lift amfs . . . This seenu» like a very rej:;ular and .s«>niewliat mechanical ,.,„- eei'din;'; as one dcscrilus it. but in the pi'rformancc it is rendered lutcnscly iiitcrestiini lu the knowlcduv that, at any moment, it is lin- ble to be interrupteil by an aj-reeable surprise. One can never tell just when or how a salmon will rise, or just what he will d(» when he has risen. swin}^. pro- Tl IS mornin;;- the interruption I'onu-s early. At tlie Hrst oast t)f tlu s.'oond drop, before the fly has fairly lit. a frreat Hash of silver d from the waves chtso by the boat. I'suall^ r.ithcr slowly, earryini;; it under water before I arts y a salmon takes the tlv H It this one is in n 10 seizes it in his mouti with a rush, and the lino '^xu'S whirri o m«>tui for deliberation. He has hooked himself nu: r.iadlv from the reel as he r U'OS lis own down the pool. Keep the point of the rod low ; he must have 1 way now. I'p with the anchor tpiii'kly, and send (he canoe after Iiini IS reached im ; we 10 current below I a bowman and sternman paddling- with swift strokes, lie 1 the deepest water; ho stops to think what has happened to h have passed arouiul and below him; and now with the ourronl to help us wo can bi',«in to reel in. Lift the point of the rod witi stronir, steady pull. Put the force of l>oth arms into it. The toinrh wooti will s(aml the strain. The tish must be moved; he must come to the boat if he is ever to bo landed. He nives a little and yields n< VI ai all ov 'J) Al sill '!•« TFfK RKt^TTOotrrrrK 126 K.'t .1 Hlaok on 1.: Mm a I a^/'^N -'r «»"• ""■ «""•'•■ i>. i, ? !:".." r"''.'T, ""; '?•'. '<"i'i"K 1.1.1. I«""l"" IH. will smvl .ak ,.;'''"'■■'. '"'■ ". '"' '"'^"^ "" "'•' "H to l.oM hi,,,' H,„ I," '^ 7'-^ T>''' "'" " ^^i" K<' l.unl win. iMck to ,1,0 sl.aiiow ,si,|,. of M,I„o , il i ."" '.•"■:''.""' '••"^' Iwt. Tlio 1,,„, ^,...t ?'"".""'■. ■^"" lu'iH,'!,,,,. „, i|„, Tl„. (i,hi,,, ,■,.,,„ u. „„„,,■ „r ,l„. !„.,, ,„„, , „,, U,.s,iK,.,K.h„ „„. U.M l,v K....(l,.„u.„ „„.„in„ ,l„. ,„|J,„,,,, ,1,,,,,..., ,„„l i, i, „;,„llv ,." l.,„,„ II,.. l„i,lK„ ,!,„ «i!,„,„l r„ll„w, ,|ow„ ,1„. s. „l„„-;. „f II,., |i,„ , , ' :;;,;:r;r;: ;•"■ ; i." .sv-.w, »i,„;; :;;:'':;,;;'•• ■■."•;""■"-' ■"--i>e» o„ ,ii«i,. ,„,,v„ea. „ 'C >i. » on, ,l„. s„„„„„ ,s r,.,„u,kul,ly lino. Vo,„U.,. lie, ,|,„ ,„„.nn , ""■ """ '"''■'■ "' """'1' '" — H..V .„„' ,.i„« „v>,. ,„ ,°„",'' able ,w..,. lull,, ,1,., „„,K, „f s,„„,„.., ,,,„ „„„ si,u..M„„,„„ i, , '","'■"""'' '" '"'■'"• "" '""'■"'™"J- """l"->-' .onnina,!,;, . IKv"lm,,v ,v,,o„,. ».,.,„ .,„.. ,,„t ,„„ „,,,„ ^ c,„„„b I »luiu. Ml III,. l,.„i,s|wi-,.,il utiiiospUcie. '-Hiiil.uuiloii Williiii II,.. „„„„l, „t ,|,„ ,{,,,|i ,„.|,^, ,|,.„.o„„.„, i„ „,,, ,i„,^. CIIJ.I, „„.„ „uie,, /V„V,. ,,«./„«.. Aoios, .lie ..ivoi- f|.„,„ o„„ pW ^ 1.0. the. Uiciiiac ,c,.k.,m.„. of .!/«„„ ^ViW, .hci-e .|,„ ,.„„„„ Jj ™ 126 THE EECTTGOUCHE. French vessels may still be seen at low water. The ^licmac village stands upon a good coal-field. In il&O, when the French Government was seeking to regain Quebec, 22 store-ships were sent out from France under a strong convoy. In the gulf they learned the distasteful in- telligence that an English fleet had gone up the St. Lawrence ahead of them. Thereupon they took shelter in the Bcde des Chalcurs, where they were followed by Admiral Byron, commander of the British naval forces at Louisbourg, The British squadron, consisting of five ships, captured two of the French vessels on the way up the bay. The French fleet, fleeing into the Kestigouche, took refuge imder the batteries of Petite Rochelle, whither the English followed, and after silencing the batteries brought on a general engagement. At length the explosion of a French powder-ship brought the battle to a close ; and the English destroyed not only the whole squadron but the fortifications and the 200 houses of Fedfe Rochelle. On the site of the ruined town relics of various kinds are yet from time to time unearthed. Nine miles from Campbellton the train stops ot Dalhousic Junction, whence a run of *? miles brings us to the lo\ely watering-place of Dalhousie, with its famous summer hotel, the Inch Arran. Dalhousie lies on the beautiful and placid waters of the Bale dcs Chalcurs. It is the capital of Rcsti- gouchc Coimty, and has a population of between 2,000 and 3,000, with a considerable trade in lumber and fish. In the deep sheltered harbor of Dalhousie the boating and bathii:g facilities are all that could be desired. The Indian name of the Bale dcs Chalcurs is Eckctvam Kemaache, which signifies " a Sea of Fish," and is in the highest degree appropriate. The waters of the bay are brooded over by the charm of many legends, chief among which is that of the " Phantom Ship," whose lurid shape is ^'id to appear at times off the coast, and to be associated in some indeterminate manner with the omnipresent Cap- tain Kidd. Here lies the scene also of the brutal deed of Skipper Ireson, the subject of a spirited ballad by Whittier : " Small pity for hnn ! — He sailed away From a leaking ship in C'halour Bay — Sailed away from a sinking wreck, With his own town's-people on Lor deck ! ' Lay by I lay by ! ' they called to him ; Back he answered : ' Sink or swim 1 Brag of your catch of fish ajj^in ! ' And off he sailed through the fog and rain." 1 !l (.'( I{ di Ai de Wil to lal 8ll( tri Tw cor siff THE RESTKJOUCIIE TO MONCTON. 127 From the Restigouche to Moncton. From Dalhousio Junction to Bathurst the traveler gets some noble and spacious views from the car-windows. Ten miles fron. the Junc- tu.n is Charlo, beside the Chado River, a small stream which has not been leased for several years, though it is a capital trout-stream and one may lull a few sahuon on it in the early part of the season Six teen mdes farther on we cross Jac<j>,ct Rhcr, a famous fishin-r strean. winch a few years ago was nearly depleted by poachers, but^which is rapidly regaining its old status under judicious protection. Bcvond Jac(iuet River wo pass th(> unimportant stations of Bellcdune and Pelite Aochr, at the latter of which we cross the little Nigadou River As we approach the fine harbor of liafhnrsf we cross the 7\,fa<fouchc River Then we come to the town of Hathurst, where flows in the NepmefuU Jviver. The name Xopisiguit signifies foaming waters. Resides this river and the Tatagouchc, two other streams empty themselves into the lovely basin of liathurst Harbor-namely, Middle Riv.r and the Lif/le Aepisiyulf. All are fishing streams, but the fame of the lesser three is quite eclipsed by that of the Nepisiguit. The name Tatagouchc IS a corruption of the Indian Tootoogoose, which signifies Fairy RivcM- Ihe town of Rathurst is beautifully >ituated on two high poinis sepa- rated by a shallow estuary. It has a population of about 3,000 and a considerable trade in fish and lumber. The chief hotel is the Keare,, Home. The settlement of Rathurst was begun in 1638 by a wealthv Rasque, M. Jean Jacques Enaud, who took to himself as wife a Mo'- hawk princess. Rut difficulties arose between the French and the Indians, and the latter at length destroyed the infant settlement The district was an old battle-ground of the Mohawks and the Micmacs At different times settlements were begun on the harbor, only to be destroyed by the savages or by American privateers. The present town was founded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas. The reputation of the Nepisiguit as a^'salmon-stream is second only to that of the Restigouche and Miramichi. It rises in a number of lakes in the high central plateau of the province, separated by only a short portage from the head-waters of certain of the St. John's chief tributaries. The course of the Nepisiguit is tumultuous and broken Iwenty miles above its mouth it plunges in four leaps over a ma-nifl- cent cataract 140 ft. in height, known as the Grand Falh of the Kepi siffuit. Below the fall the river glides through a narrow channel be- m 128 THE RESTIOOUrilE TO TVIONCTON. twetMi liipli cliffs. AI)()vo its ih'bo„chrrtm,t ir rolk over a bod of great granite bowlcicrs. Though (he riv-r is leased, and a good doiil of n^ney spent on its i)r()teetion, its sahnon-fisheries arc deteriorating, owing, it is said, to a system of trap-nets below tide-water, so arranged as'to prevent lisli entering the river. This dillieulty, it seems, can hardly be remedied, as tidal waters are not under the control of the provincial authorities. Throughout tlie whole of its upper course, however, the river simply swarms with trout of lurge size, which are rarely disturbed owing to the comparative inaccessibility of the waters tliey occupy. The best way to reach them is from the other side of the province, by a canoe trip up the Tobi(jiir and down the Nei)isiguit from its source. Tins is a trip to delight such bold canoe-men as long for the complete wilderness and a little spice of danger. The sr.lmon of the Nepisiguit arc smaller than those of the Ilestigouehe, but a verv fierce and active fish. Five miles beyond Bathurst lies Gloucrstn- Jmw/ioi,, whence the Caraipu't Railway runs down to the Bale den Chnleurs shore to the inagniliccnt harbor of S/iipjvffan, the port of refuge of the Canadian and American fishing tleet.^i. The fare to Camquet and return is |2.25. This harbor is very peculiarly situated at the extremity of a cape which thrusts itself far out into the gulf. It occupies an important point in a scheme known as the ocean fei-ry, by which it is proposed to shorten the transatlantic passage. The idea is to run a fast express between New York and Shippigan, swift steamers from Hhippigan across the (Julf of St. Lawrence to St. (George's Bay in Newfoundland, thence fast express again across Newfoundland to St. John's, whence it is but l,tMO nules of ocean voyage to Valencia. This scheme is yet in nuhi- buH, and may r-main so; but just beyond Shippigan lies the wide flat island of Mhcou, whose shooting-grounds are perhaps the best in the Dominion. The seasons are August and September for plover, Scp- teudier, October, and November for geese, ducks, and brant. The shooting privileges of iliscou are hold by Lee Babbitt, Esq., of Fred- ericton, who may be addressed on the subject. :\liscou Island is about 20 miles in circumference, and is reached by boat from Cara((uot. Ihe distance between Caraquet and Gloucester Junction by rail is aboul [.' miles. The district about Shippigan was once a favorite reeort o: the walrus. Between Gloucester Junction and the town of Newcastle on the Miramichi, a distance of 39 miles, we pass but three stations, namely, THE RESTIGOUCIIE TO MONCTON. ] 29 /?../ Pirn, Barmo^fuc. and Beam- Brook. Newcastle is at the hond of .leep water navigation on the Mirau.iehi. It is a ship-hnil.lino een.rr w.. h a population of between 2,<.00 and 3,000, and a considerable tnule m inn.her and in canned and frozen fish. The chief hotel is the " "vn-h, ,ve .uiles down the river, on the sonth shore, lies Chat- Lam, the ch.ef town of the ;^«lf coast of New Bn.nswick. AIn.ost -Hlway between them, on the san.e si<le of the river as Newcastle i he lumbering village of I)oru,la.tov,.. Chathan, is about 12 miles from the mouth of the Miran.iehi. Its population is nearly «,<.00, its harbor US safe and roomy, an<l its lumbering, fishing, and ship-^uilding mtcests are arge. It is the terminus of .the Northern and Weslent Radway, winch runs between Chatham and Fredericton, and it is the see town of a Ron.an Catholic bishop. Between Newcastle and Chat- han, one n.ay go by rail by way of Chatham Jrmction ; but n.ueh the ZL "'V"'' pleasant trip is by the stean.ers that ply on the river, though as far as the scenery is concerned the Miramichi, in its lower portions at least, has little to boast of. Th. view ol Chatham is dommated by t^^e lofty piles of the Roman Catholic institutions St. Murefs Cathedral. na College, and the Convent and Hospital. The chK^ hotels of Chatham are the Adan.s Hon.sc and Bomer\. Besules the Mira-nichi itself, to be referred to presentlv, the trav- eler who haUs at Chatham finds himself within convenient "distance of many fine fishmg waters. It is a short drive to the mrti/>offue, whose wide shallow reaches abound in season with splendid sea-trout It is an easy stream to fish, and at the head of tide may be had good sport >v.th the striped bass. Stages run from Chatham to the famous jlbn. sr>dac, the place where two meet," a distance of 34 miles. As a trout- stream this narrow river, full of pools, is almost unrivaled. The sea- trout swarm up its waters, and run very large. A trip to the Tabu- Mutac IS the great delight of Chatham anglers. Fifteen miles beyond this river hes the Bi, Tracadie River, a broad, shallow stream well stocked with salmon and trout, and running through a sandy region. The district about the river is thickly settled with Acadian French whose farming and fishing are alike prosi.erous. The mouth of the Tracadie as of most streams flowing into the gulf along this coast, is sheltered by a long, low, sandy island, forming a shallow lagoon. The<e lagoons are frequented in the autumn by vast flocks of ducks wild goese, and brant. At Tracadie is the famous Lnaretto, an object of anost painful interest, where a colony of lepers is secluded and cared ii S ! 130 THE RESTIGCUCIIE TO MONCTON. for. Some time in the course of last century a French vessel v/as wrecked on this coast, certain of whose sailors were afflicted with the virulent leprosy of the Levant. By close associetion and intermarriage the disease spread rapidly among the Acadians, but it is now being stamped out by the precautions of the Government. From Chatham excursion steamers run frequently down the river to the settlements of Bafi du Vin on the south shore and Burnt Church on the north shore of Miramichi Bay. Both these settlements are on small trout rivers. Burnt Church is the capital of the Micraac Indians, and they gather to the spot in great numbers every summer on the festival of St. Anne. They celebrate the festival with religious cere- monies, sports, and dances. Governor Gordon says, " I was surprised by the curious resemblance between these dances and those of the Greek peasantry." The Miramichi. The Miramichi is the second river in the province, ranking next to the St. John in size and importance. The head-waters of some of its tributaries interlace with those of streams that flow into the St. John. A short distance above .¥ewcasile the river forks into whsit are known as the Nor^wcst Miramichi and the Sovhvest Miramichi^ of which the latter is really the main stream. The name is Micmac, and means " the happy retreat." The Sou'west Branch is the more thickly set- tled, and its valley is traversed by the Northern and Western R. R. as far as Boiestown, The course of the river, as of most of its tribu- taries, is comparatively unbroken, and oifers every facility for both fishing and canoeing. The Nor'west Branch is more difficult of access and has perhaps fewer first-rate salmon-pools. Nearly all these waters, however, are justly renowned for trout and salmon. Particularly famous are such tributaries as the Big and Little Scvoffle, the Bcnous, and the Dungarvan ; and in the latter stream, owing to the rigid sup- pression of poaching, the fish become yearly more numerous. Perhaps the most famous salmon-pools are those on the upper waters of the Sou'west Branch, above Boicsioivn, at the mouths of Burnt Hill Brook, Rocky Brook, and the Clear Water. J'or information as to fishing privileges in New Brunswick generally, one would do well to communi- cate with the Commii'sioner for the Province, J. Henry Pliair, Esq., of Fredericton. An excellent canoe trip may be made by ascendir.p; the river St. John by steamer, canoe, or rail some distance above Woodstock THE RE8TIG0UCHE TO MONCTON. 131 and portaging over by a short carry to the head of the Sou'west Branch whence the run is easy all the way to Chatham. A pood deal of history has been made on the lower portion of the Miramich, and about its mouth. The early settlers were usually unfor- tunate m thejr relations with the Indians. An interesting point is Beauba^r s Mand, at the confluence of the NorVest and Sou'west Branches. Here once stood a flourishing French town, most of whose inhabitants perished by disease and famine in 1758. The destruction of tbe town was completed by a I^ritish fleet in 1759, and now its site IS woods and picnicgrounds. In October, 1825, the greater portion of the river valley was visited by an awful calamity which occupies a very promment place in New Brunswick history under the name of The Great Mtran^rchi Fire. This conflagration destroyed 3,000,000 acres of forest and 160 human lives. Those who escaped only sa;ed then,- selves by uvkmg refuge in the h-kes and rivers. The catastrophe is thus described by Dr. Bryce : For two days precodiitg the 7th of Octohpr iso^ tl^o «;„ i, ^ u Intensely close; t'here was"a dead cdm Sarf e;eni^^^^^ cinders, ashes, and hot sand, so that simultaneously severa hundS of square mdes were wrapped in one blaze. The town of TewcS was swept awav almost entirely. Vessels in the river were cast ashoe Tnd ll^^t^rf' '^""^^^^^ "^" "'^"' ^"^"^^"^ >^"d «hildTen wte over upwa" d of ^2 OoTS/" r T^t ^""^ Go'vernor-General advanced fCni; ir ' 2 ?' '^^'^^' '^^'^^ ^^*« cheerfully assumed by Lower Canada Nova Scotia appropriated £750, and militarv stores tnlZ vah. of many thousands of pound, were sent to S'mSble^I;! The Intercolonial crosses the Miramichi above the forks by two fine bridges. Between Newcastle and Kent Junction it passes the small stations of i).%, Chatham Junction, Barnabu River, and Rogersville. At Kent Junction the Kent Northern R. R. may be taken for the quiet lip"; ..'''' *^' ''P^*'^^ '^ ^'''' ^°""ty' "^'^r the mouth of tho R^ch^bucto R^ver. The neighborhood is interesting to tourists chiefly for the typical Acadian town of St. Louis, with its sacred well and grotto. 7 miles by rail from Richibucto. The fine summer hotel of Richibucto, krown as " The Beaches," is now closed. The name Rich', bucto means " the river of tire," and was applied not only to the river fnit to a fierce inbe of savages that dwelt upon its shores In 1724 this tribe, under the leadership of their chief, the Great Wizard, made t'W 182 ROITTKH FROM MONCTON. I SI an expedition to Canm and captured sovontcen MassachuBetts vcsselfl. With this fleet they were sailing lionieward in triumpii when they were ov(M'talvcn by two ships of war whicli had been scuit in pursuit of Ihern from IJoston, In the strange sea-fight that followed the Indians fought desperately, but were defeated and slain to a man. After leaving Kent Junction we pass the stations of Wcld/nrd, Adamsvil/p, Conl Bt inch, Canaan, and Ji(i'ri/\s MilLs, in the run of 45 miles which brings us to the cjty of Moneton. Moiicton. iHoncton is important as a railway center. It is a prosperous and rapidly growing town of about l(),t)00 inliabitants, but is not a pretty town as regards either its situation or its buildings. It has a sugar refinery, cotton- factory, and the works, and otHoes of the Inter- colonial R. R. It lies in a flat, inexhaustibly fertile farming region at what is known as " The Hend " of the Pcditrodiac liiver, a remarkable tidal stream flowing into the 15ay of Fundy. The extreme variation between high and low tide sometimes reaches 70 ft. ; and the flood tide sweeps up the channel in a foaming wall of water from 4 ft. to () ft. high, which is known as the Hore of the Petitcodiac. The shores of all these tidal rivers emptying into the Bay of Fundy are lined with vast breadths of salt meadows, consisting of an alluvial de- posit of wonderful depth and inexhaustible fertility. They are re- claimed from the sea by an elaborate system of dikes, and produce fabulous crops of hay. There are several good hotels in Moneton, of which the best are the Brnnswiek, the Commernal, and the Ro>/(il, re- cently rebuilt; rates, $2 per day. From M<»ncton a railway runs to 'no town of Budouchc (famous for its oy.«ters), a distance of 32 miles. Return tickets cost $1.50. The chief hotel at Buctouehe is the Bay View. Routes from Moneton. Moneton to St. John, $2.67 ; return, >$4.00. Moneton to Charlotte- town, $3.50 ; return, $5.30. In the way of choice of routes from Moneton the traveler now ex- periences an einbarra{< de ric/iei^KrK. If he wants to do New Briuiswick thoroughly before going outside of the province, his best route is as follows : By Intercolonial (western section) to St. John ; thence up the rivrr Sf. John to Firderidoii, Woxistock, Grand Falls, and the fishing districts of the Tobiijue^ Green Riiwr^ and the Suuattooks. ROUTES FROM MONCTON. 133 From Woodstock or Frodcrioton hy rail to Si. Stephen, Sf.. Andrews, Campohello, and the lovely region of rumima(juod,h, ; thence by bont or the cars of the (Jrand Southern baek to St. John, From St John one may eross the Hay of Fundy to l)},,h,, and thence up the far-fan,ed Annapolis Valhuj, tiirou-h the hmd of Kvan-.line, by the Windsor and Annapolis R. 1{. to Halifax. From Halifax as a center one mav conveniently do the eastern end of the province, witii Pnnce k'dward hland, Cape Ih-cton, and the far-otf ancient colony of Newfoundland • then, when ready to set his face for the land of the eagle, lie may take the splendid steamers City of Halifax and Olivette, of the Canada At- lantie and Plant Line, for Boston. This hitter is a luxurious and delightful voyage, skirting the bold Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia and avoiding the choppy seas of the Hay of Fundy mouth. Another good route is to retrace one's steps from St. John to M(meton after having finished the western portion of New Brunswick H'one intends to do Prince Edward Iskmd &m\ Cape Breton, it will be best to follow the main line of the Intercolonial from Moncton to hackville, and thence across the Mhnms of (Jhi-jnecto to Amherst where one may visit the famous Chiynedo Skip Ji. Ji, From Amherst he will return by Intercolonial, a distance of 4(» miles, to Painscc Junction, whence a branch line runs to the charming little watering, place of Shediac, where there is unrivaled sea-bathing in the warm waters of Northumberland Strait. From Shediac one goes bv boat to mmmerHide, in Prince Edward Island ; thence by rail down .1.; island to the city of Charlottetown, its capital ; thence by boat again to Pidou Aova Scoha, ami by rail from Pietou to .Uuf^rare, where we cross the Uut 0/ Canso into Cape Breton. After having tasted the fishing and scenery of Cape Breton, then back by rail to Pietou and 7V«>-o,and on to Halifax. By this course one misses the country between Amherst and Truro along the line of the Intercolonial, which is, however, neither beautiful nor historic, but interesting mainly for its great coal-mines and iron-works at Spring Hill and Londondcrnf. The latter town however, may be visited by a short run from Truro, and the former by the Cumberland Railway and Coal Co. from Parrsboro on .)rhms Basin Having reached Halifax by this route a traveler n.ay then take the Dommion Atlantic Ry. to Digby, making, if he will, a dl'tour from Muldleton by the Nova Scotia Central to Bridgcwater and Lunenburg on the Atlantic coast. From Digby he may cross the bay to St. John by the City of Monticello, and thence to Boston either by rail or by the 184 MONCTON TO HT. .lOWN. li s|tl(>iitli(l fouKt Hfciiiiioi'H «»f flH» Iiit(>i-inili*)iiiil SloiifiiKhiii ('a. ; or lie may go !»y tlio Doiiiiiiidii Mlaiilir Uy. to tlu« oity of Yantmilh^ iit tho «x- M«<ii»> soiitliwcHj fonuT of Nova S<'oliii, and tlu'inv by ouo of Iho Hue new HttMiinorM of Hio Vaniiiiiitli l.iiic — llic VariiionilMir th«' HokIou - l>y a i>l«>asaiil oit'aii viiyagc »■! nixlci'ii Iioiiim to llw metropolis of Nrw Kiiglaiid. From Moncton to St. John. From Moiit'lon to St. .loliii, a distaiioc of St> milrs, tlii' In(«M <iiial runs for llio most pi\r» thi'ongli a rich farming!; cotuilry, and, as we ap- proach St. .I(»hn, \vc calch many hciiuliful views fiom tlic ,ir-\vindows Tlie far to St. John is *2.<»7 ; return, |l. At, Salishunf, 1!{ ndlos from MoiH Ion, the lntercoh)nial is jctin' d by the Salisbury and Harvey K. H., wliii'li runs If) miles through the ,-imall lishiug and ship-building villages of .Mbert (\)iii\ty to its ternunus mi S/ic/' ihf liaii, an inU't of the Hay (d' Kululy. Hillsboro is an important village (ui this line, and ln»s n heavy plaster trade. .Vt Allu rt .]/tiii's was onee procured tlie ntost valmiblo species of coal which tlie wculd has known. This nun- oral, called Albertite, fetched enormous prices; but tiie supply is now exhausted, and the village is falling to decav. Tlie coast villugc-t of .Mbert fouuty are largely engrossed in th(> shad-lisheites. The peak of iSy«'/)<)(/v .l/r)»';»/(r//(, called originally "Chapeau Dieu" from its crown of clouds, conunauds a truly sublime view. The regiiui it overlooks is rich ill minerals and game. Kiv«' miles from Salisbury is the village of l\>/frft h'hur, with good trout-lishing and fine scenery at Pollctt Falls. Five miles farther we come to the imporlaut village of /'<tif<0(/i<i<' (chief hotels, Mansurd /A)M,sr and Central) in a district settled by Dutch loyalists from I'enn- .•^ylvania. Not far from Petitcodiac arc the famous fishing waters of i\iU'Ui» h'inr. Leaving IVtitcodiac W(> pass small ataticms with the picturesque names «d' A)in(/o>Kr, /'tiioht^tfiis, and /'/niirrisnp. Then we reach the growing town of Siiksix, the center of th(> rii-h agricultural district of Sussex Vale, which contains the head-waters of the lovely h't'ini'.'hecmis, and was settled by loyalists from New Jersey. Hetween Sussex and Ilainpfon, a distance of 'Jl miles, we pass the stations of A/)ofi(t<fui (famous for its mineral waters\ .V<*;7<);/, /i/ooiiifii/(/, and P:iss(lirop. From Norton a new railroad, the Central, runs northward aci-oss tlie Wihsfnu/ciinud- through the coal regions at the head of (iratid J.ake. Hampton is a growing town on tho Keniiebecusis, 22 miles iii., HT. JOHN. 135 fmni St, John, and in ii fuvoiif. «' Hiiiiiiiicr n-Nort f<»r the pooplr nf that ruuHwick riitiH olty. J'Voin llatiiplon »Ii.' (\mtiiil lliiilway (»f New U iilMHif «(> iiiiloM , oiillioaHt t.» thoHmiil) tovvaof tit. Miirfhm or Qnnm (HI the Hiiv of hiiidy. giiiifu h oii(> of the <liicf sliip-liiiildiim mitoiH '" ♦'"' l»''"^' ; '«« li'iilM.r iH «'x wodlnj^ly |)i(|.ir('M<,i„., and Is Hiir- oii<>. Till' proiiionlmy of Qimco Head rniindoil by luny rlilfH of Haiido Olll aiiioiiH is ail iiiiporlatit liindiiiark lo Hay-o| hindy iiavinntois. N.»l, fur fi the town of (^iiaco are I'mn^'s Lakfi and Mount ThmhnUl Lnkv, f for (iK'ir ti'ont. H.twccii IlamptoM and Hi. John tlic KcniH'lu.ciiHiM (»prns out into ii ilccp and wide .'stni.ry of tlic riv.r St. .Inhn, with iH.tl. nlion-s frinK'od with woodi'd uplands in which iu'sM,.s many a (piict villiiL'c. 'riw snin- mor I'lliiifttc about fills hrauliful wiit( r is, likf its lioaling and its bath- K'lr siunnuT uiK, not to he surpassed. After passing the stations of Nnin,'ul,,nm,d\ MoiH Fnnn, and Qni.spamni.t wo eoine to the lovely little town of AWZ/fsa//, wliere nuuiy <d" St. John's wealthy citizens have tl homes. h'oth,.tin/ llall is a ^jood sunun.T liot(.|. Across th»> wide water of the Kennehirasis fnun (ioinhda I'oint lies the secluded and iK'initi- IhI villa^'e of Cli/lon, famous for its strawberries. lA-avin;,' HotlHwiv, the train skirts tlu^ Kennebecasis, passing the Htati<nis of lavenide 'J'orn/hurn, and liroohullr. On the farther kI burn, is the peculiar clilf culled the "M Mouse stands near the famous Keiineb liore, across from Torry- inisier's Face." Torrvburn U Ixicasis Row in;; Course. Metwec Torryburn and St. John, ;)n what is Unuwii as the Marsh Koad, is the racecourse of .]foo.sr.,mfh I'ork. A few miles east of Torryburn,'toward the i-oast, lies the favorite- (ishln^' resort of Ij>rh fAmiond, with ^'ood shoofiiif,' in the neighborhood. Loch Lomond properly c(msists of three lakes, and in their waters niav I trout, but what is k )c caurrht iKtt oiily the ordinary brook- nown as the white trout. linnhr's and DahdVi are hotels on the Inke. The railway keeps alon^r the river shore to within 2 or ,{ niilos of the city, when it leaves the water and runs throu^di a marshy valley, throu^rli the manufacturing' suburb of (hhU brook, and into tl:e splendid new Intercolonial station at St. John St. John. The population of St John ia 39,179. The chief hotels are the Aoi/(t/ and Aew Vidona ; rates from two to three dollars a (hiy. Elec- tric ears (far. 5 cents) traverse the [irineipal streets. The city is well supplied with hacks-fare ;{() cents between depot and hotels 50 cents I ^. s^. Ai 'oa IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) & // y. £/ A^i^. U.. 1.0 I.I 1.25 •^ in A |M 2.2 Jr 140 1. UUU IIIM lU 1.4 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i/.A 136 ST. JOHN. I ii per half-hour Opera-House, the Academy of Music. Chief club the Unic. The ferry and bridge tolls, for carriage, are 16 and 20 cents the foot of Frmcess Sf The up-river steumers of the Union Line leave Indmntown daily for Frederidon at 9 a. m. The steamship Citv of E ticello of the Bay of Fundy S S. Co. leaves ior' Df^t^! aI:^^^ 8 a. m daily m summer ; Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays in win M /^M^'^^^'i ^^ *^^ International S. S. Co. leave at 8 a. m on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays during the summer months. \Z mg the winter they run one and sometimes two steamers a week. On ^randlX ^^^^'^^^^ *^" ^^^^"^ '«^^«« Indiantown at 8 a. m. for The city of St. John, the commercial metropolis of New Brunswick has a population of something less than 40,000, and ranks as the sixth city of the Dominion. As a ship-owning center she heads the list. St John is a creation of the United Empire Loyalists. The site of thJ city is historic ground. The tirst settlements at the mouth of the St John River were ri.ade by the French early in the seventeenth century The most stirriikg episode in the early history of the spot is that of the feud between Charles La Tour, who had a fort at the head of St John Harbor, and his rival D'Aulnay Charnisay, who had his headquarters across the bay at Port Royal. Trading with the Indians, and fishing and hunting, Charles La Tour prospered in his fort in the St. John's mouth. The story of the disasters that at length overtook him has been thus told by the present writer in another work: w.J.'„^"* La Tour's chief good fortune lay in the possession of a woman, who appt-ars to have been in all ways the fit wife for a man nL«n.-. P-^ ?"■ ^bjl'^y-,"« '««« than his own, contributed to his Sfft ^"^. "r"° ^^': ^'^ '•^«* ^'^«' ^«'' t^« «'^<^' '^'l his life-long of T« Toi'Tl 'i*^^^'^• '' '^^^ ''''■^"Sh the vindictive jealousf of La Tours brother-lieutenant in Acadia, D'Aulnay Charnisay that an end came to these fair prospects. Holding undisputed authoritv over half the territory of Acadia, Charnisay had no oy in h s pS sessions while h.s hated rival was in prosperity near him. Craving the .ich trade that flowed through the post on the St. John and conscious of his strength at the court of France, he was soon in 'open hostilities agamst La Tour in Acadia, and intriguing against him at Chw"''- '^^ \''^"^*, ^^ ^""^ "^^ ^^^''f^^d wilh l-eason and Charnisay was authorized to seize and hold him for trial. Dut La lour was behind his walls and secure in the justice of his cause. He mocked at the royal mandates and made ready for a stru-^le The city of Rochelle came promptly to his assistance, while CbarnTsa'v drew re-enlorcements from Paris. In the spring of 1643 Charnisay suddenly with a large force, blockaded the mouth of the St. John. Supplies ST. JOHN. 137 wVentis'r 'v:dt';a\1i ^-ly expected from RocheHe. cloudy night a C TlippT^ent v oZf t^^^^^^^^ «"d one tide. Invisible in the 8^00™ alon ^1 e CnrW ^T" "P"') *^^ ^^^• fhe rocky heights of PartrXe ?S 1 <-a'^>«ton «hore and beneath the t,lockading ships and LaTn^r-'V^''''- "^^^ ^'''^ ^^'■' «""« ^^' the Rochelle vessel THp iT? ? ^^'^ ^'^^ ""''^ "^ ^O"- ^ostor in appearance of Lriour^n the hit' Tr^'i "^. ^^^ ^'*"^*'«'^ ^^s tl.. sh^s; and CharniJa7Va"s*dHv^? ;oltet^^ ^".^'^^ sharply punished on his own ground A rjn? . ^^^'^^^ ^"^ closely investing Fort La Tonf in ?K /S*'",*'^ ^^^ayed the attack, and found t\,A"JZn„Zi C^l'fl"'"".-'"'' ""'""J "•'">"'<!<' pulsed, but through Z Trethcr^°'„,'''r emT 1 r.rZ'.'l^"^ '^^ entrance. Even then thp hmvo ^i^^rv, J^ j ^ f . '*^^* gamed an intrepidly at the hid of her faiST ^J^"l* ^'1^' ^"' '"^^ ^im so honorable terms of XuuLion^h "^^".^ 1^1^ *^^ ^"^^^^^ ^^ered of her brave followers Vo7n'nnorh''frr^'^ *^r' *« '^^^ ^^e lives the garrison laid down thdr arn" tlun GlL7u''''u been signed, and of them but one, whom he forced to ^.f If ^ ^^""""^ ^^"'"^ '"^^ rades; and Lady La TourhHed to thp .«n '" T^' *^ ^'^'^ °°™- her neck, and compelled her to %1 ^1 ''''' '"'^^ * halter round destroyed her husCtinrd and ^""^ill'^rrT .V^"^.'^"^^ her followers ever present in W ZJ ' tJH Zombie fate of gave way and she d^d witWn a few'^TnThs ''/hi^/'^"? 'f>*^ made the subject of a spirited ballad by Whmier." ''"'^ ^^ ^^^" Prom the days of La Tour to 1763 the mouth of the St. John was the latte year the territory of northern Acadia, now New Brunswick ha" sta?;f.' '• ^°""'^"'- "'^^^ '^''^ -^"- ''- James ZndJ had started fisher.es on the harbor, but had been driven away bv the nd a" J: f^'J— ' -th Mr. James White, Captain Peatd'v and a party of fishermen, he repeated his attempt, and succeeded in estabhshmg a little settlement. In 1775, during the Amer ^n Re ol" t>on an expedzt on of Americans from Maine plundered the village aid d troyed the old French fort. Then in the gray morning of ^yZ iV83,took place the "Landing of the Loyalists"; and on the Jim pemnsula of gray rock arose, as it were in a nigh , a city o n e'a ,y •if I 41 f i! 138 ST. JOHN. 5,()0v'.' inhabitants. Its first name was Parrtown, which, fortunately, was soon discarded for the present more dignified and musical appellation. The nursling of the waters and tlie fogs, St. John has found her most relentless adversary in fire. In 1837 she suffered from this scourge the loss of over a hundred buildings; and thereafter like calamities foil upon her from time to time, till the climax was reached in the great fire of June 20, 1877, which wiped out a full third of the city. This catastrophe has been described elsewhere by the present writer, as follows : Nine hours sufficed for the swallowing of 1,612 buildings in the fiery vortex. The rocks held and multiniied the furious heat till the streets glowed as a furnace, and the most massive structures of cranite crumbled to powder, melting away swiftly like hoar- frost. The smoke was vomited up to the tops of the steeples, nnd there, driven on a level before the wind m rolling surges, formed a lurid roof which shut in the pcrishmg city. The ships in the harbor were many of them burned before they co^ld escape from their moorings. Coals and hot ashes were ramed u^on the villages miles about. In Fredericton, 84 miles distant, the sky to the southeast was like a wall of hot copper until daybreak. When the flames died out along the water's ed^-e all the city south of King Street had gone down. In a day or two the'centers ot the streets and open squares were cool ; and as one walked ankle- deep m the soft, white ashes, at eariy morning, the scene was one of most weird and desolate grandeur. The sun shone over the dazzlin- ripples of the bay, over the silvered and soundless spaces which had been streets, and against the unclouded blue the thin smoke-wreaths rising from the cellars and mat^ses of ruin took a soft saffron color Here and there stood bleak, tall chimneys, red and black and ^^rav' or thin fragments of high walls, loop-holed and ragged. At intervals the silence was broken by the crash of some masonry that had held Itself up through the stress of the trial and now toppled reluctantly to Its tall. In the center of the squares, and in fhe open country about the city were hundreds of tents and sorry cabins, wherein reigned a sort of sullen tumult ; and in spots a louder excitement, with piles of bottles and flasks close in view, testified that some treasures had been recovered out of the ruin by the endeavor of willing volunteers On the site of one isolated liquor-store, the debris of which still criowed most fervidly stood a pitiable old figure poking, with a long-handled rake, among the ruins, his eyes gleaming with delight .vhenever an un- bi-oken bottle was resurrected. St. John received prompt and liberal aid in her calamity, and rose from her fall with an energy and vitalitv that were marvelous. All that had been laid waste was rebuilt with added splendor, and the new city will compare more than favorably in its architecture with cities many times its size. But even yet, with so much of her capital locked up in costly blocks, she feels too vivid re- minders of that grievously staggering blow. ^11! ST. JOHN. 139 united 111 ' '^'''" '"' '^' '''^^'"'"« '''y ^' ^-^'^«"^ -e'-e un ted under one c.v.c govcrnn,ent-a step which has given a great im pulse to the city's prosperity. The harbor of St. /ohn Is perf L "v sheltered and kept clear of ice in the severest winters by the treZn dous Jundyc.de and the great current of the St. John River It Js always thronged with shipping of all kinds, from the stub-nosed wood boats-and the httle red tugs that rush hither and thither with a .reat black scow on each am., as it werc-to the stately square-rig^ed ^h ns h.t trade around Cape Horn, and the great iron streamer tl a , lumber across the Atlantic. Occupying a high, rockv peninsTl7 crowned w.th spires, the city shows „p admirabl/a.; one approa he u b old J- „ ' "'"'^ "^' '' ^^'^'"•'^^^ ^^"- Behind it lies tl thetdm n rV^r^r-'^""" "' ''""'''^^ ^«^' — ^^^-h we see olofin" "^AU ^'^'"'"^'^^'•^- The city is remarkable for its sober iTo \- t '" ^T^ '*'"' "' brownish-gray wood, producing a color effect wh.ch ,s good under a clear sky, but dismal enough when the fo" toll I f ---tain over the city, to hang, ^ , netimes, for day^ together, and touch the con.plexions of the St. John women with that br.gl.t yet dehcate bloom for which they are renowned. There is mil to be sa.d m favor of the fog; bu. most depressing is the deep, sep.U chral vo.ce of the fog-horn at th. harbor mouth, whose periodic note «ecms o Kssue with painful effort from a throat which the fo. is chot mg. About the head of the harbor, where all available space by the water's edge, s occupied by shrieking saw-mills, the bank sweeps in a lotty r.dge till ,t seems to n.eet the Carlclon shore. Carleton is a din-.y and busy and superlatively rocky suburb of St. John, occupyino- the western side of the harbor. ^ " One of the most effective streets in Canada is Kinff Street, St. John. i?clLbr; T " ''" """'*'' '"' ""^' ^'^ '^*h ^^^- by fine shops, chmbs straight up a steep hill from the harbor, and ternunates in the dark fohage of King Square. At its water-foot is " Market Slip " where, at low tide, a flock of wood-boats, fishing-smacks, and small schooners, are gathered on the long, black slope of ooze, kxt in im- por ance to King is Prince William Street, running southward at right angles to it to the water's edge at Reed^s Point. On Prince William ^r. r "^"^ «'^!,^""dings, chief of which is the splendid Custom. Hou.e, the finest building of the sort in the Maritime Provinces It is bmlt of a rich-toned sandstone, from the quarries near Dorchester The Posf.OJ,ee, City Hall, and Banks of New Brunswick and ^fontreal 140 ST. JOHN. are exceedingly handsome new buildings, all put up since the fire. Near Prince William, on the corner of Germain and Princess Sts., stands the handsome new building of St. John's chief club, the Union.' On Germain St, and extending through to Charlotte, is the magnifi- cent pile of Triniti/ Church, built of a light-gray store, and rendered doubly effective by the long and steep approach that leads to its main entrance. In the steeple is a remarkably fine chime of bells. Near by is Queen Square, commanding a lovely view seaward, and faced by some stately private residences. Just off this square is a veritable palace of gray stone, the hou.e of one of St. John's wealthiest merchants. This building, in its simple, massive, and harmonious proportions, is, per- haps, from an architectual point of view, the best private house in Canada. A little east of the square is the Wigffins Male Orphan In. stitution, a really beautiful structure of red and gray sandstone. By a short walk southward, toward the water, we reach the spacious Military and Exhibition Grounds, formerly occupied by British troops, but now the resort of ci-icketers and ball-players. King Square, already mentioned, is the most popular of the city's breathing-places. Its three acres are set with shade-trees, and in the center plays a fountain. Just beyond ana adjoining it is the old Bury- ing-Ground, whose tombstones are of interest to the antiquarian and the searchers of epitaphs. North of King St., between Germain and Chariotte, lies the fine, spacious building of the city market. On Charlotte St. also is the Young Men's Christian Association buildin- whose library and reading-room are open from nine in the morning till ten at night. At the head of Germain Street, on an imposing site, stands the old Stone Church, and close beside it Calvin Church and the wooden building of tlie Mechanics' Institute. Some distance east fr i King Square, on Waterloo St., stands the Roman Catholic Cathedral, the largest church in New Brunswick. This is a beautiful structure in pointed Gothic, built in a striking combination of freestone and marble. Its spire soars magnificently over the surrounding buildings. The in- terior is massive and severe, and the stained-glass windows are exceed- ingly good. The length of the cathedral =8 200 ft. and its width at the transepts 1 10 ft. Over one of the great do ,rs is a fine marble bas-relief of the Last Supper. Adjoining the cathedral are the Bishop's Palace and the Orphan Asylum, on Cliff St., and on the other side the grim, brick pile of the Nunnery. By way of Waterloo St. we reach the' conspicuous building of the General Hospital, which occupies the crest ST. JOHN. 141 . Of a rocky hill, overlooking the valley by which the Intercolonial Rams access to St. John. At this point the valley is a deep and thickly, peopled ravine dividing the main portion of the city from the lofty line of Portland Hdghta, among whose harren rocks perch airily many handsome villas, and the ambitious pile of Reed's Castle In the valley he the skating-rink, the Owen's Art School, the brick Church of St. Stephen, and the tall, wooden structure of St. Paul's, familiarly known as the Valley Church. Besides the churches already mentioned there are a number of other handsome ecclesiastical structures in the' city. Conspicuous among the Portland Heights is the bald eminence of Fort Howe Hdl, surmounted by a battery of heavy guns, and command- ing a magnificent view of the city and harbor. On its naked slopes one may conveniently observe the character of the rocks on which St John IS built; and one ceases to wonder that the hand of man has not yet reduced St. John to a level. Many of the city streets, as it is, have been blasted and hewn at great cost out of the solid rock, which in many places towers high and black above the roofs, and greatly re stncts the citizens' back yards. In walking about St. John one is always going up or down hill_a circumstance which most visitors find wearisome, but which perhaps accounts ;n some degree for the elastic and well-balanced figures of St. John women. Carleton, across the harbor from St. John, and reached by way of the ferry, or the Suspension Bridge over the Falls, is interesting for its Lunatic Asylum, its Martello Towers, its sea-bathing, and its unusual ugUness. Far down the Carleton shore of the harbor stretches a Ion- hue of rocky flats, left naked at low tide, and adorned with the Ion- pict"- uresque gray lines of the hcrring-weirs. At the extremity of th" flats rises a \ohy white structure known as "The Bracon," which resembles at high tide a high-decked river steamer. A little way out beyond the Beacon lies the black, steep mass of Partridge Island, the home of the fog-horn a..d the lighthouse, and the bulwark that shields the harbor from the rage of Fundy's waves. The chief business of St. John is ship-building, and the shipping of lumber and plaster ; but besides these industries it has large manu" facturing interests, particularly in iron castings, and the manufacture of nails, boots and shoes, cotton, and cars and machinery. The citv also conducts important herring, gaspereaux, and shad fisheries. From the port of St. John run steamship lines in every possible direction-across 142 UP THE RIVB:k 8T. JOHN. the Atlantic ; along the American coast to Eastport, Portland, Boston, and New York ; around the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia; up the Bay of Fundy to Parrsboro and Windsor; up the river St. John and its navi- gable tributaries. Of these lines, those of special interest to the tour- ist are the International S. S. Co., whose splendid side-whecl steamers run along the coast to Portland and Boston ; the Bay of Fundy S. S. Co., whose fine steamer Citi( of Monticello runs across the bay to Digby and Annapolis ; and the Union Line, plying between St. John Ind Fredericton. The railways centering at St. John are the Intercolonial, the Canadian Pacific, and the Grand Southern. Up the River St. John. From St. John to Fredericton we may go comfortably and expe- ditiously by the trains of the C. P. R. R., a distance of 56 miles ; but the tourist should go by boat to Fredericton, and there take the C. P. R. R. for the upper portions of the river. To Fredericton by water the dis- tance is 84 miles, through such varied and beautiful scenery as has earned for the river St. John the somewhat extravagant and mislead- ing appellation of the Rhine of America. The scenery of the St. John possesses indeed diversity, breadth, and magnificence ; but it lacks the " castled crags " which give their chief charm to the banks of the Rhine. The steamers of the Union Line are the David Westcn and the Acadia, which leave St. John on alternate days. Both are comfort- able steamers, but the David Weston is much the finer and faster boat, and the traveler will do well to await her day. Passengers are taken aboard at the suburb of Indiantoivn above the Falls ; but at cer- tain times of the tide the steamer runs down through the falls to take on freight at the city wharves. It is well worth one's while to find out the hour, varying with the tide, at which the boat goes back to Indian- town, and make the trip up through the gorge and beneath the bridges. The fare by boat to Fredericton ii |1 ; by rail $2, and return $3. The gorge is spanned at its narrowest portion by a suspension bridge and by a splendid new railway bridge built on the cantilever system. Just above the bridges are the Falls. This remarkable phenomenon was described as follows by the pres- ent writer in the pages of Picturesque Canada : This cataract is of interest even to one satiated with cataracts. It is worth gettin"- up at daybreak to become acquainted with, for it stands almost alone UP THE RIVER ST. JOHN. 143 among waterfalls in being rcverBible. At one time it falls in nnn duection, ,n a few hours it is falling in the other dTeetionYl^o anTbXo7:r''thL •''"" ;'*"■•"'"' ^^"'•«^' '^ -"'« the Ser VnaH? het'Z^ 1h' ^"'U'^'' f ^^'^ g«'-S«' y«" «ee aXid srfaooTecke l" ^i^s Ws- f -rti:^^ ^^:^ -^-3 of stone-throws across spanned by a suspension bridge^ wTentheX tide has emptied the harbor, the accumulated rivet waters faU through nver .s so far successful that it holds its freedom, and can 'never ho subjugated ,nto a tidal river with drowned shores 'and banks of o„ze The St. Jolin IS able to guard its narrow pass. Were the -ate to h^ thrown wide open, as are those of other rivers, the babarou hordes New B^utrk.' °"^"''''" """ °° ""^^ °f *^^ low-iyingU:;':? Leaving the wharf at Indiantown, and pa8^.ng the high limestone quarries of Boar's Head, we steam up through the narrows, whose pre- cipitous walls of many-colored rock resemble, in all but hue a some what diminished bit of Saguenay scenery, though the deep river flowin- between them teems with traffic. The cliffs are jagged and splintered and piled up magnificently ; and we recall the theorv that the path we are now following is not the outlet by which the St.'john in old times sought the sea. It is surmised that the river had anciently two mouths the one leading from Grand Bay through the low lands west of Carle-' ton, the other from the Kennebecasis down through the "Valley" be twcen St. John and the Portland Heights. The present channel seems to have been formed by a violent rending asunder of the hills, which was probably accomplished by the same terrific convulsion which raised all the coast west from St. John 30 ft. above its former level The Indians say that the Great Spirit once grew angry with the river for Its arrogance and dosed the passes against it. They have another 144 €P THE RIVKR ST. JOHN. legend to the eflfect that a j;reat beaver appeared upon the earth and In one night built a dam atro.ss the outlet and drowned all the people of the inland regions. The eountry about the mouth of the river (called by the EteheminH "Oolastook" and by the Micmucs "Ouangondy") Irt rich in traditions of the demigod Gluskilp, who hud his ehief abode here and called it Menagwes. MENAVJWE8. (JhiHkflp, the friend and father of bin race, Prom MenaffwcB, his kindly dwelling-place, With help In need went journeying three days' »pace; And MciiaKwee, left empty of IiIb mm, Naked of that wise might, its whleld from harm Leaned on his name and dreaded no alarm. But evil spirits watche<l his outward path- Such enemies a good man always hath— And marked his fenceless dwelling for their wrath. With shock of thundur and the lightning's slings, And flame, and hail, and all disastrous things, They came upon the tempest's midnight wings. When home at length the hero turned again, His huts were ashes and his servants slain, And o'er the ruin wept a slow, great rain. His own heart wept for sorrow; but no word He spent in wailing. With dread anger stirred He cried across the sea— and the sea heard— And sent great whales, that bare him from the strand, And, bending to the guidance of his hand, Made swift and sure his path to Newfoundland. In vast morass, and misty solitude. And high clifl'-cavern lurked the evil brood, Mocking at vengeance in derieive mood. But scarce the hero's foot had touched the coast When horror seized on all the wizard host, And in their hiding-places hushed the boast. He towered before them, gathering like a cloud That blackens day; and when their fear grew loud. His vengeance came about them like a shroud. Tuen seeing that his utmost vengeance kept Nojspell to break the sleep his servants slept, Gluskap returned to Menagwes and wept. w■ *^- ■ leL l ^^H^M^ ■B! . ■ n : UP THE RIVER 8T. JOHN. 145 The St. John River, ho called by Champlain because it was dU. covered on St. John's Day, 1604, has a eourse of about 46.) milen of w^neh the lower 225 u.ile.s he within the province. It h navigabl^ to FreJencto., 84 n.iles from the u.outh, and for light-draught stern, wheel steamers 76 miles farther, to Woocktock. It receives a n.unber of large tributaries, and drains a highly fertile fanning and timber country. " Abo.it 3 miles above Indiantown our steamer emerge^ from the narrows into the 9.miles-broad expanse of Grand Bay On our richt between two high and rounde.l headlands, lies the mouth of the Kenne^ becasjs, on whose splendid rowing-course took place the fan.ous boat- race between the "Paris erew." of St. John (so called from its eon- quest of the world's championship at Paris), and the Tyne crew, from the north of England-a struggle in which Renforth, tlie stroke of the Tyne crew lost his life. Behind us, to the left, stretches the ample basin of South Bay, ever crowded with rafts and set about with saw- QllUs. ■ As we cross Grand Bay the river shores again draw together In the fresh light of the morning wonderfully beautiful is the contrast between the high shores of vivid green, dotted with glittering white farm-houses, the fringing yellow beach, and the deep blue of the ruffled nver. Soon after passing the landing-place, called Hrundaae^s we enter the Ung Reach where, for a distance of 20 miles the river pursues an almost straight course between high shores from 3 to 6 miles apart. These shores consist of beautiful round d hills some cultivated, some richly wooded, diversified by fairy valleys and 'sleepy villages and bits of meadow. The magnificent expanse of the river is dotted with the sails of wood-boats, yachts, and schooner.s; and there are usually several little steamers in sight, busy hauling rafts of lo-s to the saw-mills. As we near a point.of land a boat puts out to meet us, and the steamer, with a hoarse whistle, slackens speed. As the boat approaches, its bow high out of water, we see that it is propelled by a solitary waterman, and carries in its stern a woman, dressed in hor best and holding an ancient, black parasol over herself and a box of codfish, which latter is probably a consignment for some secluded grocery farther up stream. Vigorously our paddles reverse as the little craft closes in perilously beneath our high, white side. Her bow is grappled with the iron beak of a pike-pole, she is held firmly to the gangway for a moment, and codfish and female are nimbly transferred »«* ■fX 146 VV THE BIVER ST. JOHK. to our lower dock. In nnother minute we nre once more throbbing onward, while th.' nkift dnncoa in our wake like an eccentric cork. On the western nhorc of Long Reach, 17 miles from St. John, Iii«H the lovely .summer resort of Wen/field. Two miies farther is the land- ing of (Jreenwich Hill. Six miloH beyond h Oak Point, a hamlet of mo.st unusual beauty. Between Greenwich Hill and Oak Point, on the same shore, is the lofty wooded ridge called the Devil's Hack. At the head of the reach is a cluster of higli, rocky islands eovered with birch and fir. The typical Island of St. John, of which we shall pass so many that we may as well dispose of them all at once, is a large or sniaH fragment of alluvial meadow called " interval," fringed with a'der and Indian willow, and dotted with here and there a splendid elm, and heie and there a haystack. One of these islands which we shall pass is Httle more than the bushy rim to a broad pool, where ducks and herons chiefly congregate. " The Mistake " is a long, narrow peninstda much resembling an island, and when the unwary navigator has traveled 2 or « miles up the inlet which separates it from the western shore he realizes vividly the appropriateness of the name. Just above the Mis- take, on the east shore, is the deep inlet of lielloisle Bay, a mile wide and 14 miles long. An arm of this bay is Kingston Creek, at the head of which among the hills lies the secluded and romantic village of Kingston. Near Kingston is a remarkable little lake called Pickwaa- keet, which occupies the crater of aii extinct volcano. River landings at which the steamer calls after leaving the village ol Tennant's Cove (29 miles) at the mouth of Belleisle Bay, are Wickham (32 miles), Hampstead (36 miles), and Otnabog (41 miles), at the outlet of Otna- bog Lake. Then we pass the Lower Musquash Island, behind which, on the east shore, hides the deep mouth of the Washademoak, which is a sort of a compromise between a river and a lake, and has a rich farming region about its shores. After passing the Upper Musquash Island the steamer turns into a cove on the west shore and draws up to the wharf of Gagetown, 60 miles from St. John. This sleepiest of river villages is the shire town of Queen's County, and seems the exact counterpart of Robert Buchanan's " Drowsy town " : " Oh, BO drowsy ! In a daze Sweating 'mid the golden haze, With its one white row of street Carpeted so green and sweet, And the loungers smoking still Over gate and window-sill ; i : ■I I nwjw<» i i'j i 'j> ' .. 'iw ii, i i »ii .in pi ]% i»nii»n ^ aa i Bi ill'i'r'iii'i' ' -I- IfiilV'';,:" ■':,:, I '1' iiiinii i!|K. J* •- '^i ■ .;*->• - t UP THE EIVEE OT. JOHN. 147 Nothing coming, nothing going, Locusts grating, one cock crowing, ' Few things moving up or down, All things drowsy— Drowsytown." Leavinc Gagetown the steamer heads do*vn river a short distance ordeT to round the foot of Grimross Island, and passes on the cast shore the mouth of the Jemseg River, which the inhabitants call the Jumsack. This deep, narrow, and sluggish stream is the outlet of Grand Lake, a fine body of water 30 miles in length, surrounded by a rich agricultural and coal-bearing region. The shores of the lake abound in fossils. The Jemseg banks are clothed with historic asso ciations. In 1640 a strong fort was erected at the mouth. This was captured by an English expedition in 1654, but restored to the French n \ \ !r V.".^ '^" ^"'^'''''^ "^ '^'"'''^ «^"*^^"^d 116 inhabitants. Under M. de Villebon it was made ihe capital of Acadia, an honor which was afterward transferred to Fort Nashwaak, opposite the point of land now occupied by Fredericton. In 1776 an army of 600 In dians gathered on the Jemseg, to lay waste all the settlements of the St. John Valley ; but the firmness of the Oromocto settlers overawed them, and they suffered themselves to be mollified with presents A little above Gagetown we enter the county of -Sunbury, which once comprised the whole of New Brunswick, but is now the smallest of her counties It is also the most fertile. Its low, rich meadows are cov- ered with water in the spring freshets, when the inhabitants move about in skiffs, the row-boat instead of the carriage is brought to the front door the children explore in wash-tubs the farthermost recesses of the farm-yard, and the farmer sets his nets for gasporeaux where a httle later he will be plowing and planting in a hot sun with no drop ol water la sight save what he carries in his tin bucket. Passin- Mauger's Island we see oii our left the village church of Burton, on our right the white walls of Sheffield Academy, now the County Grammar bchool. A little beyond, on the right shore, lies the scattered village .^rr? ^J^""^ '*' ^*"°^'' '^'' fir«t English-speaking settlement established m New Brunswick. It was planted in 1763 by pioneers from the parishes of Rowley, Boxford, and Andover, in Massachusetts and speedily became a flourishing community. During the Revolution the mhabitants declared for the Americans, and all but twelve of them signed resolutions reoudiatinjr firont nn'taJn lU"— -i------ •.• arms and ammunition, and in an outburst of warlike fervor the Mau- us FREDERICTON. gcrvillians organized an expedition against Fort Cu.nabt'iliind on the Isthnnis of Cliigneeto. There they found a schooner stranded on the mud, and this easy prize they captured ; but the sight of the fort dis- ninycd them, and they altered their intention of carrying it by storm. The schooner they took away and sold. They were afterward com- pelled to make restitution to the vessel's owners ; but, this d(me, a lenient Government indulgently overlooked their folly. Just above Maugerville, on the opposite shore, lies the county town of Sunbury, the village of Oromoclo, at the mouth of the Oromocto River. Here of old stood a fort for protection against the Indians. The Oromocto is a deep and narrow stream, navigable for small craft a distance of 22 miles. On its upper waters, and particularly in Oro- mocto Lake, there is excellent trout-fishing. In its lower reaches pick- erel abound. Off the mouth of the river lie Thatch Island and the great meadowy expanse of Oromocto Island. Here we are 74 miles from St. John and about 10 miles from Fredericton. Five miles farther up the boat calls at the interminable booms of Ghsier^s, where logs from up river are put together into rafts to be towed to St. John. Along toward the middle of the afternoon we catch sight of the smoke which rises over " The Mills," a mile below Fredericton. Then the river widens out, and over its shining expanse we see the long bridges, the spires, and the billowy foliage of the city of elms, Fredericton, which is called by New-Brunswickers, in affectionate banter, the " Celestial City." Fredericton* The population of Fredericton (estimated) is 8,000. The chief hotels are the Quccii\'i and Barker House. Cab fares are 25 cts. for a course within the city. The livery stables of Fredericton are good and much patronized, and the cliaiges very moderate. The fare between Freder- icton and St. John by boat is only |1. Fare by rail to Woodstock, |2; Grand Fulls, |i8.S0 ; Edmundson, $4,80; return, $3, $5.70, and $7.20. Fare to St. Stephen, |3.15 ; St. Andrews, $3.2C ; return, $4.75 and $4.90. The history of Fredericton begins at the mouth of the Nashwaak^ an important tributary of the St. John, which flows in immediately op- posite Fredericton. Hither in 1692 came Yillebon, from the Jemseg, to be nearer bis Melicite allies. Here he built a large and well-stock- aded fort, which in the autumn of 1696 was attacked by the New-Eng- lAiivivFcy uuuci wtvuci xiaTTtuviuc ttiiu uiu x^CujUIIilD V^UUX'Cn. V lil^UOn, PREDERTCTON". 149 beinsc forewarned, was forearmed. That redoubtable ecclesiastic, Father Simon, brought thirty-six of his Medodcc warriors to swell the garrison, and all was enthusiasm within the fort. The New-Englandcrs landed with three cannon near the S. shore of the stream, on a point now much frequented by the schoolboys of Fredcricton in the cherry season. Truly it is a charming spot, and its cherries are marvelously great and sweet and abundant. But the New-Englanders found little pleasure therein. The fire from the fort by day dismounted one of their guns, and suffered them not to work the others with any degree of comfort, while by night a plentiful hail of grape upon ail such watch-fires as they lighted drove them to sleep unwarmed and wet, whence came in the morning much rheumatism and complaining. The undertaking became unpopular in the invaders' camp, and, under cover of the next night, they forsook it and fled. In the autumn of 1698 the garrison was removed to Fort La Tour, which had been rebuilt at the mouth of the St. John, and after Villebon's death in 1700 the Nashwaak fort was demolished. Nothing now remains to remind us of those exciting though uncomfortable times save some green mounds where once stood ViUebon's ramparts, or a few rust-eaten cannon-balls which the farmer gathers in with his potato-crop. In the year following the erection of New Brunswick into a province the capital was, for strategic reasons, removed from St. John to what was then known as St. Anne's Point, now Fredericton. For a long while Fredericton was the headquarters of a British regiment. Now it is the seat of a military school, and the post of a company of Canadian regulars. Being a military, political, judicial, educational, and ecclesi- astical center, Fredericton was for a long time, from a comm.rcial point of view, rather unprogressive ; but within the last few years she has begun to throw off her lethargy, and enlarge both her trade and her population. She has become a railroad center, no fewer than four lines radiatin-from this point; and additional lines are proposed, with every prospect of their construction. She is the distributing point for a large and rich agricultural section, the headquarters of an immense lumber- trade, of cotton and leather manufacturing, and of extensive canning operations. With a population of only about 8,000, Fredericton has a disproportionate share of public institutions and fine buildings, and her society derives special individuality and charm from the influences which there concentrate theniselves. The streets of Fredericton are broad and level, overarched for the 150 FREDEEICTON. most part with elms of stately growth, and wearing generally an air of quiet prosperity. The main business street is Queen St., running the whole length of the city near the water front. One side of this street is lined with shops. The other side has business houses on its upper and lower blocks, but is occupied along its central portion by the Offl. cers' Square with its lawns and tennis-grounds and battery of little cannon, the gray-stone buildings of the Officers' Quarters, the hand- some new Post-Office and Custom-IIouse, the Barracks and Parade Ground, the graceful red brick structure of the Provincial Normal School, and the stiff brick block of the new City Hall, with its clock- tower over the front and a ludicrous little perky appendage, like a rudimentary tail, sticking up on its rear. From just above the Post- Office the long white structure of the passenger bridge runs across the river to the suburban village of Sf. Mary's, on whose outskirts hangs an interesting little settlement of Mellcite Indians, some of whom are famous hunter?,, guides, and canoe-men. Near the lower end of Queen St., where it is joined by King and Brunswick, stands the beautiful little Anglican cathedral of the diocese of Fredericton. This is a harmoniously proportioned structure in pure Gothic, built of gray-stone with window- casings of white Caen stone. It occupies the center of spacious triangular grounds*, beautifully wooded. Just below it the river is crossed by the splendid steel bridge which connects the Canadian Pacific with the North- ern and Western R. R. at the busy village of Gibson on the opposite shore. In the block above the Cathedral stand the new Farliament and Departmental Buildings, taking the place of the old buildings which were destroyed by fire. The main building is a handsome and solid structure of freestone and light gray granite, which would be en- tirely satisfactory but for the attenuated dome which surmounts it and much resembles a pepper-pot. In its rear is the fire-proof library, containing an invaluable collection of the plates of Audubon's " Birds," once owned by Louis Philippe. On the side of the block facing St. John St. is the handsome purple sandstone structure containing the Govern- ment offices. In winter, when the Provincial Parliament is in session this is a busy quarter of Fredericton. At the extreme upper end of the city are the new Victoria Hospi- tal, and the severe stone pile of ixovernment House in its spacious grounds. Scattered through the city are many churches, of various de- nominations. The most noticeable of these are the handsome new stone gtrnctures belonging to the Baptists and the Presbyterians, standing FREDEEICTON. 151 within a block of each other on York St. ; and the exquisite little parish church, called Christ Church, on the corner of George and Westmore- land Sts. This edifice is of an Old English pattern, and carries a silvery chime of three bells. Back of Fredericton rises a line of wooded heights, whereon are some good private residences, and the massive old building of the New Brunswick University, crowning a succession of terraces. This was of old King's College of New Brunswick, estab- lished by royal charter in 1828, under the auspices of Sir Howard Douglas. It is now a Provincial Institution, and is doing good work under the management of President Harrison. From its cupola we get a wide and lovely view. At our feet lies the city in its billows of green, bounded by the broad and shining arc of the St. John. Above and below extends the river, dotted in the one direction with islands, in the other with the sails of wood-boats. Straight across opens the fair Nashwaak Valley, with the village of Marysville in the dis- tance. Opposite the upper end of the city we mark the mouth of the Nashwaaksis, or little Nashwaak, which boasts a pretty cataract some 10 or 12 miles from its mouth. On the outskirts of Fredericton, half a mile above Government House, stands a picturesque old mansion called " 2'lie Hermitage^'' which is rapidly falling to ruin. In the gay old days of British mili- tary and "family compact" rule, "The Hermitage" was a famous social center. Now its deserted chambers are romantically supposed to be haunted, and its ''oacious and well-wooded grounds are a favorite resort of the city's pic ; parties. Continuing on past The Hermitage, a very lovely drive ca. nds up the river shore some 4 m. or more to the village of Springhill. Another interesting drive is across the river to Gibson, and thence up the valley of the Nashwaak about 3 miles to the growing town of Marysville, the creation of the gigantic cotton and lumber mil's of Alexander Gibson. This trip may be made, if one prefers, by the Northern and Western R. R., which runs through the town on its way to the Miramichi and its salmon-pools. After the >'ast cotton-mill, the chief point of interest in Marysville is the gor- geous little church erected by Mr. Gibson. With all the beautiful and accessible waterways that surround it, no wonder Fredericton is the very home of the birch-bark canoe. Her inhabitants easily equal, and often .a -1, the Indians in the manage- ment of this fascinating little craft. An easy and charming canoe- trip may be taken from Fredericton down the river to St. John, an |4: \\'\ I 152 FBEDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. indolent voyage, with no fishing or hard paddling to do, and villages all along the way to supply provisions. Fredericton to Woodstock. In spring and autumn, when the river is high, the " storn-whcel " steamer Florenccville plies between Fredericton and Woodstock, a distance of 60 miles. All the points of interest along this route will soon be accessible by rail, as a line is under construction along the western shore of the St. John. It traverses the populous settlements of Prince William and Queensbury, peopled by descendants of dis- banded loyalist soldiers. The finest scenery on the tnp is at the mouth of the Pokiok River, by which the waters of Lake George find outlet to the St. John. The Pokiok Falls are about 40 ft. in height ; and after this plunge the river roars and leap.i through a g .rgc 1,200 ft. in length, whose perpendicular walls, 75 ft. high, are less than 30 ft. apart. The signification of Pokiok is " The Dreadful Place." Lake George is somewhat renowned for its productive antimony-mines. Near Pokiok is Prince William Lake, and a little beyond the Sheogomuc Lake and River. At Canterbury the road crosses Eel River, the outlet of Eel and North Lakes, from which a famous portage (whose deserted paths are worn deep by the many Indian feet that trod them of old) leads to the Chiputneticook Lakes and the St. Croix, and thence to Passamaquoddy Bay. By this ro-4te went the troops of Villebon many a time to ravage the New England borders. Five miles beyond Eel River is the site of the old French fort Medoctec, beside the rapids and Melicite village of the same name. This district was of old the Seignory of the Sieur Clignancourt, and was held an important center, owing to the necessity of making a portage at this point to avoid the rapids. These, however, the steamer surmounts, as a rule, without great difficulty. The approach to Woodstock, whether by land or water, is picturesque and charming, the high, rounded hills being well tilled and crowned with groves and cottages. Fare by boat 12.50. ' The best route to Woodstock at present, available at all seasons, is by the C. P. R. R. from Gibson. Or we may take the train on the Fredericton side, at the little temporary Bridge Station, soon to be re- placed by a union depot. A mile above the station we pass through St. Mary's, already referred to, and 2 miles farther w$ cross the Nash- FEEDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. 153 waakBis at Douglas Station. For the next 8 or 10 miles we get fine views of river and islands from the car-windows, and at the raouth of the Keswick River (called "Kissaway " by the dwellers on its banks) a splendid expanse of interval country spreads before our eyes. From this point the railroad climbs the pleasant Keswick Valley, passing a number of unimportant stations. Upper Keswicic is 28 miles from Keswick. Beyond the road traverses a rather desolate-looking region, till again it nears the rich St. John Valley at Newburgh. In the wilder' ness it crosses the Nackawic (43 miles from Fredericton) and Falls Brook, both trout-streams. At Woodstock Junction a branch diverges and runs down river a short distance to Woodstock, affording vai-ied and delightful views between the rounded hills. Over the high railroad bridge we steam slowly into the progressive little town of Woodstock, the shire-town of Carleton County, and the chief commercial center ou the river above Fredericton. Woodstock has good hotels in the Wilbur House and the Gibson House. The town is well situated on the uplands at the junction of the Maduxnakeag stream with the St. John, and has a rich farming country behind it supplying a large local trade. Its 3,000 or so of in" habitants are plucky and enterprising, and have recovered bravely from the losses to which they have been subjected by numerous fires. Around the mouth of the Maduxnakeag is a cluster of saw-mills. A short distance above the town are the now abandoned iron-mines, where a peculiarly dense and hard quality of iron was formerly ex- tracted. The village of Upper Woodstock is familiarly and disre- spectfully known as " Hardscrabble." The whole district is peculiarly adapted lo the growth of grain and fruit, and is sometimes called " the orchard of New Brunswick." Twelve miles distant, and reached by a section of the C. P. R. R., is the American town of Houlton, in Maine. The Upper St. John. To continue our journey up the St. John we recross the river and retrace our way to Woodstock Junction, 6 miles distant. Passing Ilartland (13 miles from Wood-stockj and Peel (17 miles) we come to the station of Florenceville (23 miles). The village lies across the river, and is reached by a ferry. Its situation is remarkably pictur- esque, on the wind-swept crest of a high ridge. A few miles southwest of Florenceville rises Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1,200 ft. hi"h. 154 THE UPPER ST. JOHN. which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of controversy during the old border troubles, and its summit was cleared by the commissioners of 1794. Beyond Florenccville the charm of the landscape deepens. The railway keeps close to the river. From the village of Kent, 3 miles farther, where we cross the Shikiti- hauk stream, a portage of 15 miles leads to the upper waters of the southwest Miramichi. Guides and canoes for this trip may be engaged in Frcdericton. Passing Bath Station, and the Brook iMunquauk,'we come to 3funiac, 15 miles from Florenccville, where the Muniac stream, descending through a rocky glen, brawls beneath the track. In this neighborhood there is a peninsula jutting out from the river shore, around which the channel makes a long detour, while the portage across the isthmus is short and easy. The Melicites say that once upon a time, when an army of their enemies was encamped on the shore op- posite the point, preparing to attack the villages below, which had been left defenseless while the braves were off on the war-path, a clever ruse was practiced here which saved the villages. Six Melicite warriors, re- turning down river in their canoos, discovered the invaders' camp and took in the situation. First one canoe paddled swiftly down, keeping to the safe side of the river, Then at a short interval came the second, and after another brief space the third. Meanwhile the two Indians in the first canoe, as soon as they were well out of sight around the point, landed, carried their craft in haste across the portage, and em- barked again to repeat the performance. The other canoes did like- wise in their turn ; and this was kept up the greater part of the day, till the hostile band, looking on with lively interest from the farther shore, were so impressed with the numbers of the returning Melicite warriors that they discreetly withdrew to seek some easier adventure. At the little milling village of Perth, 49 miles from Woodstock, the railroad crosses the river to Andovei- (51 miles), a village of 400 or 500 inhabitants. This is the headquarters for fishermen who are going to make the Tobique trip. There is a snug and homelike country hotel here, whose proprietor, Mr. J. A. Perley, will furnish information as to guides, and so forth. A mile and a half above Andover, on the other shore, comes in the Tobique, an important tributary, about 10 miles in length, famous for its trout and salmon fishing. At its mouth is a large Indian reservation, containing a prosperous Melicite village. Some of these Melicites are exceedingly intelligent and capable as guides and canoe-men, and may be hired at from -$1 to |H a day. MR THE UFPER 8T. JOHN. 155 From the head of the Tobique one may portage to the Nepisiguit Lake and descend tlie Nepisiguit to Bathurst. The Tobique trip will be treated in detail in succeeding pages. Four miles above Andover is Aroostook Junction, whence a branch line runs 34 miles up the fertile Aroostook Valley to the Maine towns of Fort Fairfield (7 miles from the Junction), Caribou (19 miles), and Presque Isle (34 miles). These towns have each from 2,000 to 3,000 inhabitants. The district in which they lie is enormously productive, and was the subject of the boundary dispute between New Brunswick and Maine which nearly brought on a war between England and the United States. Indeed, in the year 1839, there was a little outbreak of hostilities between the province and the State most concerned. This skirmish is known to history as the Aroostook war. Troops were called out on both sides, and a band of Americans, who had gone into the disputed territory to arrest alleged trespassers, were captured by a party of New Brunswick lumbermen and their leaders carried captive, on a horse-sled, to Fredericton. Maine called out her militia. Sir John Harvey, the Governor of New Brunswick, summoned the provincial troops and the few regulars within reach. Nova Scotia voted all her men and all her revenues to the help of the sister province, and Upper and Lower Canada made haste to send aid. There was excited oratory at Washington, and (seeing that New Brunswick was but a colony) more temperate discussion at London, and finally war was averted by the arrival on the scene of an English commissioner, who with easy generosity yielded to the American commissioner, Mr. Webster, all New Brunswick's claims; and the Aroostook Valley, largely settled by New Brunswickers, became American territory. By a similar piece of astute British diplomacy Canada was deprived of broad and rich territcries on the Pacific coast as well. In the Aroostook country there is fine bear, deer, moose, caribou, and duck shooting, and excellent fishing in the Aroostook and Presque Isle Rivers and the Squawpan Lake. There is also available from this point a good round trip through the Eagle Lakes. From Aroostook Junction the main line follows the heights over- looking the river St. John to the village of Grand Falls, seated on a high plateau 12 miles above Woodstock. The village, with its cool airs and the really sublime scenery of the Falls and Gorge, has become a popular summer halting-place. The Grand Falls Hotel is a good hostelry, and there are also the Amet'ican House and Glasier's Hotel, 156 TrrK UPPER ST. JOirN. I! Thionsh the village runs the street ftmbitiously named Broadway— wliicli is indeed ho broad and grassy that it might be mistaken for a meadow. Thoiigli the inhabitants arc few— not more than 700 or 800 —there is stir in the vilhigo, caused bv the busy geese and pigs. There arc several churches ; but tiie chief architectural distinction of the village is the Grand Kails Hotel, already referred to, whicli, with its pretentious front of tall, white, fluted pillars, suggests at first sight that a (Jrcek temple has captured a whitewashed modern barn and proudly stuck it on behind. The Grand Falls of the St, John. In magnitude the Grand FnUa of the S(. John can not be compared to Niagara; but in impressiveness of surroundings they will endure the comparison. A little above the cataract the river loiters in a wide basin, where boats from up stream make a landing. Then the shores suddenly contract, and the great stream plunges into the gorge by a perpendicular leap of 73 ft. At the foot of the fall, in its center, rises a sharp c^ne of black rock on which the descending waters break and pile up magnificently. The scene varies greatly with variations in the height of the river. It is peculiarly awe-inspiring when the logs are running through, and one may see mighty timbers shattered into fragments, while others at times shoot high into the air in the fury of their rebound. From the foot of the cataract the river is volleyed off, as it were, with an explosive force that hurls huge foam-white masses of water into the air. The bottom of the terrific trough is sometimes bared for a moment as the river sways madly up one or the other of its imprisoning walls. The gorge is about a mile in extent, and walled by contorted cliffs from 100 to 250 ft. in height. The rocks are dark Upper Silurian slate, whoso strata have been twisted and turned on end, and their seams filled with white interlacing veins of quartz. Throughout the extent of the gorge there are seveial lesser falls, which are swallowed up in one roaring incline when the river is at freshet. One descends into the gorge by a series of precipitous stairs. On the wild and chaotic floor one may clamber some distance, and visit " the Cave," whose jaws remind one of the mouth of a gigantic alligator; one may get a near view of the curious "Coffee-Mill," where a strange eddy, occupying a round basin beside the channel, slowly grinds the logs which it succeeds in captunug as they dash THE GRAND FALLS OF THE ST. JOHN. 167 past. '• Tlic VVcHh " arc a strange phciionienon, Hinooth, fhculur pits several feot in diameter, bored perjKindioiilarly deep into tlie rock, and leadinji nowliither. It will take Home days to exliau.st the attraetionn of tiie gorge. At its lower end, reaehed by a wonderfully pieturesfpie and preeipitouH road fnmi the village, is the lovely, quiet expanse of the Lower fJitsin, where logs arc caught and made up into rafts for the voyage down to Fredcricton. At low water one may be poled in a lumberman's " bateau " for a short distance up the gorge to the foot of the towering cliff called S<iu(m's Leap, over whose face a small stream falls silvcrly. Over this stiep the Indians used to huri t\mr victims. One of the best views of the cataract is obtained from the old mill, which occupies a rocky ledge thrust out int(. the v<>ry face of the fall. Here one is in the midst of the spray and the rainbows. Another good view may be had from the Suspension Bridye, which swings from crag to crag across the gorge a couple of hundred yards below the falls. The spot has been the scene of many a tragedy. Lumbermen have been sucked down, and never a trace of their bodies found there- after. The first bridge built across the gorge fell into the awful depths with several teams upon it. The most heroic story, however, comes to us from Melicite tradition. An invading army of Mohawks entered the country by the head-waters of the St. John. Their object was to surprise the chief village of the Melicites at Aukpiik, far below Grand Falls. Descending the upper reaches of the river, thoy took a little village at the mouth of the Madawaska, whose inhabitants they slew with the exception of two women, whom they saved to pilot them down the rivor. The women guided them safely through some rapids. Toward evening they told their captors that the river was clear of falls and rapids for another day's journey, after which they would have to make a portage. The Mohawks lashed together their fleet of canoes, placed their captive guides in the middle, and resigned themselves to the current. The falls are buried so deep in tlie gorge that, as you approach them from up river their roaring is not heard until one is close upon them. At the first sound of it some of the watchers in- quired the cause, but were assured by the captives that it was only a tributary stream falling into the main river. As the fleet swept round the point, and quickened for the plunge, and the full blast of the cataract's thunder roared suddenly in their ears, the Indians sprang in desperate horror to their paddles. But it was too late; and the 158 ABOVE THE GRAND FALLS. women raised their slirill wnr-cry as they swept with their captors into the gulf, and saved tlieir tribe. Above the Grand Falls. Just above Grand Falls the railway crosses once more to the right bank of ihe river, and enters the Acadian French county of Mada- wasl<a. About this point the river becomes the boundary-line between the United States and Canada. Fourteen miles from Grand Falls is the Aciidian village of St. Leonard. Four miles beyond is the mouth of Grnud River, where one fnay begin a fine hunting, fishing, and canoe- ing trip. Guides and canoes may be brought from the Melicite village, at the Tobiciue mouth, or they may be hired from one or another of the Acadian settlements. The route lies by poling up Grand River to the mouth of the Waagansis, and up that meager stream through dense and interminable alders to its source in the water-shed dividing the streams of the St. John from those of the Restujonche. A portage of 6 or 6 miles leads to the Waagan, a wretched stream down which one forces his way till he comes out on the lovely and well-stocked wa- ters of the "Five-fingered River." On this trip the present writer heard from his Indians the following picturesque legend, which may be called a Melicite " Passing of Arthur " : THE DEPARTINfJ OP GLUSKAp. It is so long ago ; and men well-nigh Forget what gladness was, and how the earth Gave corn in plenty, and the rivers flsh. And the woods meat, before he went away. His going was on this wise : All the works And words and ways of men and beasts became Evil, and all their thoughts continually Were but of evil. Then he made a feast. Upon the shore that is beside the sea That takes the setting sun, he ordered it. And called the beasts thereto. Only the men He called not, seeing them evil utterly. He fed the panther's crafty brood, and filled The lean wolf's hunger ; from the hollow tree HsH honey stayed the bear's terrific jaws ; Ant. Oi. b: own rabbit couched at peace within Ihr J^iU ■np' r'uidow of the eagle's wings. Ap.v. v.' ;t>i the feast was dot .■ he told them all ABOVE THK fJRANn FALL8. 169 That now, l)ecaii«o their wayn woro evil Rrown, On that name day he muHt <h«part from them, And they nhould look upon hifl face no more. Then all the beaBts v\t re very sorrowful. It was near Hunset and the wind waH Btlll, And down the yellow Hhore a thin wave wawhed Slowly ; and (;iiiHkftp launched hiH birch canoe, And Bpread hiu yellow wail, and moved from Mhore, Though no wind followed, Htreamlny in the nail, Or rou«heninK the; dear water after him. And all the In-aHtH ntood by the nhore, and watched. Then to the west ap|)cared a Umg red trail Over the wave ; and (iluBkfto mailed and Banp Till the canoe grew little like a bird, And black, and vanished in the shining trail. And when the beaats could see his form no more, They still could hear him, singing as he sailed. And still they listened, hanging down their heads In thin ro.7, where the thin waves washed and fled. But when the sound of blnglng died, and when They lifted up their voices in their grief, Lo ! on the mouth of every beast a strange New tongue I Then rose they all and fled apart, Nor met again in council from that day. Thirty-one miles above Grand Falls we cross the rushing emerald waters of Orccn River, which contrast sharply with the amber current of the St. John. This is an unrivaled trout-stream in its upper waters, but somewhat difficult of access, owing to the shoals and rapids that obstruct its course. It is severe poling all the way up, and all the lat- ter part of the journey is through complete wilderness. The trout, however, are large and very fierce, well worthy of the effort one must make to get them. Typically Acadian are the farm-houses, in their fields of buckwheat and flax, along the lower course of Green River. Governor Gordon has thus described the home of the Madawaska Acadian : The whole aspect of the farm was that of a metairie in Normandv • the outer doors of the house gaudily painted, the panels of a different color from the frame; the large, open, uncarpeted room, with its bare shinmg floor; the las.s(,« at the spinning-wheel; the French costume and appearance of Madanie Violet and her sons and daughters, ail car- ried me back to the other side of the Atlantic. , *" i^ar The town o^St. Basil, 34 miles from Grand Falls, has nearly 2,000 •nhahjtants, an iffiinen=e Ro.jjan Catholic church, and the Convent and •^rtfrnimtyiV' 160 ABOVE THE GRAIH) FA1.LS. School of the Sacred Heart. Six miles farther wc cross the mouth of the Madawaska River, and ente; the little town of Edrmindston, gome- times called Little Falls, from the low cataract by which the Mada- waska, descending through a narrow ravine, plunges to meet the St. John. The chief hotels of Edmundston are The Adams and the Hotel Baoin. The Temiscounta R. R. runs 90 miles, along the Madawaska River, l.aki 2'emucounta, and over the divide to Rivifere du Loup. The best view of Edmundston is obtained from the top of the old block- house. At this point the best of fishing waters lie all about us. Within easy reach are the St. Francis, with its lakes Welastookawagamii, Pekaweekagomic, Pohenegamook, well stocked and little fished. Across the river is the round trip by the Eagle Lakes and Fish River to the American village of Fort Kent. Into the Temiseouata Lake flows the Cabineau, a noVtle trout-stream ; and the Tuladi, the outlet of the Squattook and Tuladi chain of lakes. Routes for the Sportsman. One of the best round trips in New Brun3wick, or, I should say, in the Maritime Provinces, is what is known as the " Squattook trip " ; much of which, indeed, lies in the province of Quebec. The route is as follows : Take the canoes (either poling them up stream or putting them on a flat car) up the Madawaska, 15 miles, to a place called Grif- fin's. Then portage 5 miles to the ugly little pool called Mud Lake, with its desolate and fire-ravaged shores. From Mud Lake descend Beardsletf Brook (pronounced Bazzily), catching a few trout by the way, and squeezing through many alder thickets, till the Squattook River is reached. Run with thrilling speed down the rapids of this river, till you come to Big Squattook Lake, where one should stop and fish at the outlet. From this down there is fishing everywhere. Passing through Second, Third, and Fourth Squattook Lakes — Second Lake known as " Sugar-Loaf Lake," from the fine peak that overshadows it — the Hor- ton branch is reached, which should be ascended for the sake of the wonderful abundance and good size of its trout. The Squattook River enters the Tuladi Lakes, two almost contiguous sheets of wilderness water, wherein the great lake-trout, called "Tuladi," arc numerous, and to be taken by trolling. Out of the lower Tuladi Lake flows the Tuladi River, whereon are the Tuladi Falls, round which, except at cer- taiu stages of the water, one must make a portage. The falls are just I ^mM'"k vmm mm XM !, h m K.V' ■m ./■m-y ^iiim-'v , ?:j! 1/ '■■'% 1/ ' :r' 'Hi ■i^r VH!' m •9) CO Bi S •^ V. 3 i ' ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN. 161 below the lake. Thence there is a clo ar run, with swift but not dan- gerous water, to Lake Temiscoiiata, which must be crossed to reach the villa-e of Betimr du Lac. Here one may put up at Clouthur\ Hotel if tired of camping. Temiscouata Lake is 30 miles long, IJ miles in breadth, and remarkable for its depth. There is good Ashing in its waters at times, especially for the great gray trout called "togue"- but it is not as good a fishing water as the streams and smaller lakes' surrounding it THE BIRCH-BARK CANOE. The birch canoe of the Melicite is filled with mystery for the un- initiated, who may be known beyond a shadow of doubt by the way they talk. If a man begins dilating on the perils of the bark canoe you may be assured at once that he is either totally ignorant of his subject, or is making a bid for your admiration at the cost of truth itself. I can not make you love the bark as I do— at least not through these pages-but if you seek out Jim Paul at Fredericfm he'll give you a taste of the dreamy delight for a very small sum. Many men of Fredericton who do not live in a hut and wear moccasins summer and wmter can not be beaten, either in skill or endurance, bv any Indian on the river. The probabilities are that you will be charmed with your first experience, and if Jim is in the stern of the canoe you'll ask'him if it's difficult to paddle— to which he'll say, "Not much," with a grin- and what you'd have to pay for a nice canoe y To this latter question he may answer, anywhere from $20 to $40. It all depends on the im- pression he gets of your wealth and gullibility. If he says $20, you had better offer him $18 and take it. He'll think more of you if you don't give him quite as much as he asks, and you may make your mind easy with regard to the other $2, because he didn't expect $20 anvway. ^ If you have time, it will interest you to watch your canoe being built. Jim Paul builds as good canoes as any one, and he is a good man to deal with. He lives opposite Fredericton, in the Indian village at St. Mary's, already mentioned, and if you walk over the bridge and follow the footpath to your right, along the bank, you'll come toVim's hut before you've gone 50 yards. If he has begun operations on your canoe, he'll be sitting on the ground by his front door driving wooden pms into the ground. He makes a little fence of these, about 8 in. high and inclosing a space the size and shape of your canoe. After ^ 102 ROUTES FOU THE SPORTSMAN. few last pats on the ground inside the inclosure, to make sure it is level and free from stones and lumps, he brings out the bark and lines the inclosure with it putting it inside out. The bark of a canoe runs with its grain from bow to stern, and, if his piece is long enough to cover the whole inclosure, so much the better as far as looks are con- cerned. If not, there will be a scam across near the middle. When the bark is put into the little inclosure it is pressed smoothly and flatly down to the ground and up against the wooden pins and folded over their tops ; and bricks or other convenient weights are put in upon it to keep it in place. Next, long, thin strips of cedar, about 4 in. wide and i in. thick, are laid over the bark, and are fitted so as to cover all the inside of the canoe, leaving only very narrow cracks here and there. Then the gunwales are put on — or at least the inner strips are put in place and bound tightly with cane (he'll use hackmatack-roots if you must have them). This will give the builder a purchase for the ribs, which are next in order. They may be of any light, strong wood— cedar or spruce, usually. They are broader at their middles than at their ends, so that the bottom of the canoe is well floored over while the silvery bark of the birch is gleaming through at the sides. The midrib is the greatest arc, and from the midrib to each end they gradually diminish in size until at last they are bent almost double. ¥ov a short dis- tance — a foot and a half — in bow and stern there are no ribs at all, and the bark of each side is sewed with roots or cane so as to make a sharp neat prow. The cavity is generally stuffed with shavings, and a shin- gle is cut to fit in and close it immediately ahead or behind the last rib. So far the bottom of the canoe is flat and the sides stand on it at right angles ; but when the ends of the midrib are pressed under the gunwales on each side and it is pushed into its proper position and a few of its fellows are ranged in place on each side, we see that the bark has left the ground, except at the center, and the sides are as- suming the curve of the finished canoe. Everything is rather loose till the bars are put in. There are five bars in an ordinary-sized ca- noe — a long one in the middle and shorter ones on each side. They are of maple, and are fitted into the gunwales at each end and lashed in snugly, drawing the canoe to its proper shape. Then the top strips of the gunwales are put on, and the seams on bow and stern and mid- ships — if there be a seam there — are covered with cotton and smeared thoroughly with a mixture of resin and grease, and the canoe is ready m ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN. 163 for trial. It will probably leak, of course, and the leaks must bo found and smeared with the resinous mixture. Then your canoe is done and you must learn to manage it ! ' If you get in and kneel down in front of the sterr-bar and get Jim to s,t m front and watch you, you will, after a few attempts, be able to keep her from wabbling in her coursc-that is, from zigzaggirg-but you will find that after every two or three strokes of the paddle you stop and steer, or else you are inclined to paddle first on one side and then on the other. Both these methods are in nowise allowable No canoeman stops to steer ! No canoeman changes sides-except to rest If you are paddling on the right side, let your right hand grip the pad- dle vevi/ near the top of the blade-the lower down, the more power- a^d the left a couple of inches below the top. Many good canoemen clasp their fingers over the top of the paddle, but it is not so good form nor as good for long work as is the true Indian mode of holdino-_viz with the back of the hand toward the face and the thumb avdffnaeZ reaching around to the front. Dip the whole depth of the blade so that your right hand goes under water, and pull stronglv and slowlv At the end of your stroke, as the blade is rising toward the surface turn the blade on to its edge by twisting the right wrist toward the side of the canoe. No time is spent in this twisting of the blade, but on it depends the mastery of the canoe and the decision of your course Practice alone can show you how to make it effective. By the steadi- ness of his blade in the water and by judgment as to the proper time tor a new stroke, the experienced canoeman can defy a chopping white- crested sea that would make short work of a stout row-boat Be sure and don't sit upon the bar of your canoe unless you are alone or have no room to knrel. Any one on the St. John River will know you are a novice If you are seen perched upon the bar. Kneel, as I said before and kneel rather low. For ordinary light work you will find it con^ vcnient to rest against the ' ar behind you, but when you go making your 35 miles a day on dead water you'll find that you work best " on your hunkers," as the Indians say-that is, sitting on your heels Paddling a canoe is one thing ; propelling it by a pole, even against a moderate current, is quite another. But learn to pole you must if you would explo-e New Brunswick waters and be independent of your Indian. The first essential is the pole. It will be of spruce 8 or 9 ft long, and about the size, in circumference, of the circle made bv your thumb and second finger. It will be dry and light and smoothly fin- 164 ROUTES J OR THE SPORTSMAN. ished, and, if it is free from knots and flaws as it should be, it will be wonderfully pliable and tough. You had better get an experienced poler to give you a few instruc- tions before you try your hand, because, of course, you must stand up to pole a canoe, and you will get no support from the pole, and the length of time you remain in the canoe will depend entirely on your luck if you go at it blindly. Jim Paul poles in good form. Let him take you up the river away while you watch him closely. You will see that he stands with his feet braced apart a little and faces the near shore. Suppose he is poling on the right side, he grasps the pole near the middle with his right hand and puts it to the bottom of the river just behind him, using his left hand merely to direct the pole to its hold in the hard mud. Then he surges steadily and strongly back with his right arm, and, as the canoe glides ahead, the left arm gets a chance to shove too and makes the most of its opportunity. The right hand, so long as he poles on this side, will never leave the pole except in making a long push, in which case the poler will often run the length of the pole hand over hand. He will always lift from the stroke with his right hand and swing the dripping end out ahead of him in a shining half circle, seize it below with his left to plant it for a new shove, and go on as before. By setting the pole on the bottom, at some distance out from the side of the canoe, and, during the stroke, drawing the stern close to the pole, the bow will be swung in toward shore, gradually or abruptly, as the poler may desire. By setting the pole well under the canoe, and pushing the stern off from it, a turn in the opposite direction is made. An experiencad canoeman keeps a perfectly straight course and makes his turns and curves with precision and without wabbling or wavering. Just as a practiced bicyclist does with his wheel. In very deep water, sometimes, the pole must be used, for some of the strongest rapids are deep. But you need not be taken unawares by deep, strong water. You will know whether or not you are going to encounter any, and will start on your trip armed with a pole of ex- ceptional length. This long pole will be found of great service, too, in a short, shal- low rapid of more than usual strength, when you can not afford to take a full, new stroke. You will then find it advisable to " swish " the lower end quickly into the air and " snub " down hard with the other, ROUTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN. 165 1 keeping your pole over ready to gain a step, as it were, by turning a handspring. With a reliable man in the bow and stern, a canoe can be forced up through a foaming, dashing run that looks utterly im- passable. The pole will be indispensable also in shooting rapids-runnin^ down over the.n. On the New Brunswick waters, at many seasons of th^e year there is very little water in the principal fishing streams, and the rocks are so thick in the runs that a paddle is useless. Then tl,e bowman must keep his wits about him, and must kneel high with a short, stout pole held ready to "snub" for all he's worth, so that the bows may not be stove in on some bare rock that the sternman has failed to avoid, owing to his natural inability to keep his canoe headed in every conceivable direction at once, without getting in the least " rattled." If you are going to shoot rapids -full-grown ones— you must be as cool as if your game were elephants. If you are not, you will break your bark's back over a ledge or rip her up with a pointed rock ; and will lose a lot of your load, and have to tramp through the woods to the nearest village. Many a time I have looked from my position by the stern-bar an.l seen a raging incline hissing and snarling ahead of me, with black rocks bobbing up everywhere. Never a word from the fellow in front of me. He leans peering over the bow, and keeps his pole flashino- like a fencer's foil from side to side. He's working like a horse, fpick out the main course and use all the common sense and experience I can lay claim to in choosing the deepest water and keeping clear of the worst rocks. He looks out for the smaller but no less dangerous ones We come to a sharp turn, and I head her straight for a giant bowlder . lat stoops in front of us, surging his way against the roaring stream with frothy, jagged shoulders. The canoe shivers and leaps at him and I give a twist to right, and a side current helps me just in time' and we turn half round and dart for another. The bowman catches her in her jump and holds hard while I slip the stern to the left and we spring through a line of rolling waves and shoot into the rest and calm of a deep, still pool, and "lie easy" a minute to look back and live those last few seconds over again. Our pipes are smoked to the very heel, and we start again, with every sinew and nerve strung tight ready for what may come. ' That is the kind of strengthening medicine you will get in the wilds ^P(!^ 1G6 ROUTKrt FOR TlIK 8POKT8MAN. with 11 biirli-luirk nmof !— strong water thiit will intoxiontc you fast t'noujj;l> and Iohvc no lu'ii(iach(>! If you sirilic the stifain wlu'u tlio wattM- is high— wiy, after the .lui\e fiosliot— youMl find all tlu' rapids full and thf water running deep ami heavy and covering all the smaller hk-Uh, so that there is not half the risk of being " stove in." Then you ean let your bowman sit at his ease, and you ean settle yourself with voin- broadest-l)lade(l jjaddle and keep things straigi\t, and listen to the shouting of the stream. No work for you now ! Nothing but highly-spieed hot jiuddings and the brightest of the bright champagnes! Aiul all digestible as bread aiul milk! And no stint! Try it for yourself, and see whether or not this is exaggerated. Up the Tobique by t'nnoe. A TYPlCAb NKW niU'NSWK'K THIP. Our party consisted of the " Kcdesiastic," the " Artist," and my- self. The Keclesiastic is a veteran devotee of birch and paddle. The Artist was a novice, but, being of frame and spirit fashioned to with- stand the thousand imnatural shocks which the canoeist is heir to, he soon proved himself one of the initiated. Without nuich difHculty, and for a consideration of sf 1 a day, we provided us each with an In- dian, and each Indian provided a birch canoe, warranted unstable but water-proof. Our supplies we laid in nt the Andover grocery. As an essential, they inchuleil an open tin baking-oven— an apparatus with which the Melicite bakes excellent bread at the camp-fire. The start was decreed for Friday morning, but rain and the non- apiicarance of our Melicites postponed it till the afternoon. A word in regard to these Melicites, whon> let me conuueiui to explorers of the lobique. They were Steve Solace, t-hief guide, and his two nephews, Tom and Frank. About l.ao, in a spell of clear sky, we paddled off from Andover and fancied ourselves under way ; but the liulians had a stop to make at their village. Here was a delay of nearly two hours, which left us little of the afternoon for journeying. Not far ahead were " The Nar- rows," thi* toughest piece of navigation which the whole length of the Tobique could bring to bear against us, with the possible exception of Red Rapids. We decided to emi)loy the reuuuxnt of our daylight in UP THK TOIJIQIIK BY CANOE. 167 ► domollshing t]w obi^taolc, that wo might have oloiir poling to look for- ward to on the morrow. A mile oC oasy water, and "The Narrows" were rcachod. Hero the Tol»i(jue liaH cliisclcd itself a canon tiiroiiuh a rang(( of ealeiferous slate whiih had sought to bar its way to tlic St. John. The little dim. eulty, I understand, was settled some ages back, but the river Htill chafes furiously at renienibraiu-e of the opposition ; the gloomy crags still threaten, cs if they brooded over their defeat. Kedly into the gate of the gorge streamed the light of the low, unclouded sun, filling the water with fervent greens and olives and flushing the naked faces of the cliffs. Hut the gorge is tortuous and the sunshine was speedily shut out, while the rocks drew closer ami closer al)ove, as if they would strike their somber foreheads together. The toppling black walls were scrawled over with tracings of white where the thin scams of limestcme displayed themselves. Hero and there we marked the coidial green of a cedar-tree, swung from some scant root-ludd on the steep. Once we came to a spot where the cafion widened, giving roon. for an eddy which served us for a i)reathing-place, and for a queer detaclufd rock- pinnacle which n)ust figure as an island at high wat(!r. At this season the stream was low, or a passage of the Narrows would have been one of the wildest of impossibilities. Instead of volleying down the gorge in an endless succession of great, white, roaring sin-ges, as is its wont in time of freshet, the current now darted on like a flight of green arrows, splintering into a hiss of foam on every point and ledge, and occasi(m- •"nping under a group of thin-crested, stationary " ripples." ihis devioMS chasm is not a mile in extent, we occupied two 1 ' ' more in its passage. For all that, we had little time to de- lig- our grim surioundings. We had to snatch our impressions. With straining shoulders and Hashing padu'es, we aided to our utmost the poles of our sorely-perspiring guides. Soi/'etimes we would grasp a jutting rock, and hold (m like leeches while the panting Mclicites breathed. We thrust and paddled desperately, now on this side now on that, as a spiteful cross-current would tug fiercely at our bow to drag us into some small but malignant Charybdis. All the while our ears rang with the rushing clamor of the rapids, doubled and trebled and hurled back upon us by the chasm's resonant walls. At last the walls fell swiftly apart before us, revealing a far, bright stretch of placid waters, bedded in low, greon shores, with a sundown sky of ing rr TiiK Tonrtii'K hy (Wnor. cK'iir Hoii-}?rcoii iinil iimlu'r wiil(>ninj>; out |M'ai'oriill_v abovo it. lU'liold frttm this til vein of tiiiiiiilt iiiiil glcmiii, t!n> viHioii nuuo to our oyos liko tlu' voritalilo t'liibodiiiuMil of a divam. I'poii a plot of j:rav('lly swanl wo pilrlwd oiir tents. As tlio rains liad drciu'hfd evei vtliinjx, we had Ironhle wilii our lir«' till a dry stomp was fonnd. After supper, while the red u;liire of the lire wrought stran^;e confusion with the niooiibeanis ainont; tho thieUets about ns, and on the misty level of the water that lu'ijjhbored our threslittid, we Kiilheied hu_!;t< armfuls of a fiiant fern whieh j,'rew near by, and diied them for our eouehes and pillows. Tiie Indians, who had their " Kmuj- to" over apiinst the tent-door, preferred their wonted pile of hendoeU- branehes. As we were runiun<^ over with noble lesolulions eoneernin<; an early start, befor(> the morrow's sun should have got his eyes well opened, w»> sat not lonjr thiit ni,u;ht about our (ire. At a modest hour we wore snufi in onr fi'rns and blankets. Fortuiuitoly for the fate of our re.-<olutioiis, the morrow, to idl ap- pearance, Inid no sun. it was rain, rain, iniii; m»w mist, now driz/lo, now "piichforks." When it liappenod to l)o for a little in tho milder form of mist, about «'leven in tlio inorniiifif, wo struck tent and jrot nnder-way. At once came on the rabid form of " pitchforks." With water-proofs buttoned up to the neck, the skirts thoroid' spread «»ut to shed tho tiownfal!, we endured in silence till we hail scored a moist thrct> nnh>s. Then, eominj; to a farm-house set temptin<?ly clo.se to tho stream, wo decith>d to break for cover. The Kcelesiastio was sittin<; in a pool which chilled, l;e sai<l, his most deeply-seated enthusiasms; and wo af^rced that a kilchcn-lirc, with possibilities of buttermilk <r/(' .\/cA, had just now peculiar charms for a canoeist's iinaj;ination. Canoes and dunnage safe beneath tarpaulins, we presented ourselves all drip- ping at tho kitc!»on-door, while the Indians took to the liarn. St)on the weather cleared, and in tho afternoon w*' nunle gttod prog- ress. Hetween tho showers the Artist would be busy with his sketch- book, whipping it under his nuu'kintosh at the first sign of a sprinkle. As for the Kcelesiastio, he is an ardent disciple of the gentle Isaac, and had got his rod spliced as soon as we came in sight of the Tobicpie, Wo two now kept casting fron> side to side as the ciMioc clind)cil on- ward, though on this lower course of tho stream we had no exi)('Otationa to bo disappointed. The largo trout wore lying higher up, or in the mouths of the brooks, and one need not look for a salmon at his tly before ho reaches tho Oxbow. Yet coitain of tho small frv were on ■ r liko ■ L'diihiiii Miiinit iitn. \\ \ i 'i I CP TlIK TOIUQUK BY OANoE. ICO hiind, and wo took enough to supply our pun liboially. Tlie EccIeHiastlo alHo, favored among anglers, struck and skillfully landed a small grilse. The fertile soil along the lower Tobique is being rapidly taken up by settlers, so during all this day's p»ding we were rarely out of sight of some sign (tf civilization. Now it was a latticed red and white bridge, leaping out of a mass of green on either lofty bank, and putting an ftiry limit to some enchanted vista before us. Now It was a white village perched on a hill, with a wall of dark fir-trees behind, and the yellow refuse of its now idle saw-mill covering the low level in its front. Toward sunset the showers ceased finally, and in the cx(iuislte air we grew all too indolent to wield or rod or pencil. We dreamed along between the changing shores, an I were disposed to grumble when the Indians halted for supper. To the halt, however, we grew reconciled when the savor of our browning trout stole out upon the luy-sweet breezes. After supper we pushed (m throu^rh gathering dusk, while the twang and cry of night hawks filled the upper skies with magic, and we caught a fur-off piping of summer frogs, with the lowing of cattle from a farmstead back of the hills. Reaching a wooded island in mid-stream we saw that it was good, and pitched our tents. The camp was on the east side of the island, under a pair of stately black ash. What a mighty fire we built that night to glare across the water I It served at the same time, truth compels me to add, the less romantic puri)osc of drying our socks, etc. We were so wet that one i'hccp.Iah-(juuh-gaH * could not satisfy our needs. The camp was full of cheep-lah-qunh-gms. It was also full of sand-flies— the in>*idious and all-pervasive " biicum-no-sec-um "—and with a fine Tobiqjie variety of the mosquito. These troubled the Artist sorely, while the rest of us, knowing them of old, hid beneath a panoply of tar-ointment. This compound, familiarly known as " slitheroo," is tar and grease boiled down, with some unnecessary chemical stiperadded. The Artist stood in awe of it. He fled to it at last, however, after bitterly inveighing against the Tobique for having brought him "to this pitch." As he stood by the cheep-lnh-qiiah-gan, alternately turning his socks and daubing on the succulent ointment, he became, on a sudden, inspired. He began : This is the Melicite name for the green sapling driven into the ground to stand over the camp-fire, for the purpose of holding the pot and kettle. Clothes, etc., are hung upon it to dry.— Ed. 170 UP THE TOBIQUIC BY CANOK. " T<)l)i(iiio, or not Tobiqiio, thiit in the quontion. Wlu'ther "tin nobler in tlic Hesli to niiffor Tho Htiiifis and arrows of oiitnijrcons niidj^joH, Or to talvo arniH apiinst a siej;o of sand-flies, And by tar-ointnu'iit end tlieni ! " At this staj^o lio was rudely interrupted. liy a lanientahle oversi<^ht our tent was pitched with tho door there- of toward the east. Therefore we awoke too early, and lay long watch- ing the sunrise over the low, thiek-wooded hills. Then the coils of mist, tinged with saffron, pink, and violet, wavered and faded from the up- lands ; but on the water they clung writhing in pearly ropes for nearly an hour longer. The woods all about were full of the " Canada-bird," or white-throated s[)arrow, whose limpid, pathetic whistle lacked never an echo. As we watched the crystalline pageant of the morning a blue film stole between our eyes and it, then a dazzling shimmer, and we knew that the camp-fire was liglited. Soon a smell of pancakes and hot coffee invaded our couch, and sjjringing up with alacrity we were fairly launched out upon a delicious Sunday's rest. We set ort" on Monday early, while the mists wore yet on the stream, and the elm-branches, in the moveless, cool air, were drooping as if asleep. This was tho luxurious time for traveling, anil in the heat about noon wo could indulge ourselves in a shsia. At half-past ten we readied IJed liapids, a spot where tho river revels down a wild incline of retl sandstone. The day had turned out temperate and cloudy. Those rapids being shallow and difficult, we disembarked, and carrying our rods along with us took a sottlemonts-road parallel with the stream, leaving the Indians to navigate the chtites, and appointing to meet them later at the mouth of Trout Brook. l>ut a pleasant surprise was in store for us. We soon came within sound of laughter and singing, the neighing of horses, and tho shouts of young backwoods swains. A turn of the road brought us out i pon a clearing all alive with tethered teams and strolling coui)les. In the midst of the clearing was a barn, in which was being held what I may define as a picnic tea-meeting. From the mouth, from Arthuret, from Andovoroven, they had gathered in hila- rious parties, in a gorgeous but bewildering whirl of fluttering ribbons and many-colored attire. They received us into their midst with the frank- est and heartiest hospitality. It was a gay time for us, till the Eccle- siastic unkindly pointed out that wo had consumed nearly three hours in this Vanity Fair. The Artist and I had made a perfect host of UP THE TOHIQUE BY CANOE. in acqimintances (especially among the maidens), who did not seem to want us to go away. We liad played many games, interesting and more or less««i>e, in the eourse of which (I blush to tell it) it had fallen to the Artist's lot to kiss the prettiest damsel present. We had been treated to the dubious delights of the swing, \vhi<'h made us dizzy ; and wc had laid out a vast amount of precious muscle in assisting to swing fair la lies. This swinging was the darling pastime of the ladies, whose passion for it seemed insatiable, and was indulged with great expeudi- lure of giggling and sn)all shrieks, and with an aitless prodigality of spotless stockings. At length the Ecclesiastic was obliged to remind us of our families, and to point out that the rural beaux were lookin" grim ; so, with pockets full of cookies, conversation lozenges, and other tender tributes, we gathered up our tackle and withdrew. rerhaj)S wc imagined it, but it seemed to us a gloom fell over the company as we left. At the mouth of the brook the Indians were awaiting us. Had we kept ^hem so waiting all day they would never, such is their [latience, have dreamed of complaining. We stayed to fish the last hundred yards or so of Trout Brook, getting fine sport with soiue lively and voracious half-pounders. The brook seemed alive with sprightly and graceful fish, from a tpmrter to a half pound in weight. The Ecclesi- astic said a good many of these would weigh a pound and over; such delicious ambiguity is the safeguard of a fisherman's repiitation. Later on wc halted at a ruined mill, where the dilapidated dam seemed a part of the river's bank, and the scanty stream that had sup- plied it fell over the moss-greened timbers in a diaphanous veil of sil- ver. The mill-pond above was shallow, and muffled in water-lilies, from under which wc lured some large but soggy-looking trout. They had little play in them, for all their vast and ferocious black mouths. For the rest of the day we little cared to fish ; we were content with the dolcefar 7iknte which our tireless Melicites and this peerless rivci- con- spired to make possible for us. Our journeying was after this fashion. Before embarking, the Indian would heap into the cance, aft of the front bai-, a sweet-smelling armful of ferns, or wild grasses, or liem- lock-boughs. This for our seat. For a back thereto he would fix a wide bit of board against the second bar; and over it, for softness, throw a blanket or a coat. Stretched out on such soft couch, our feet m moccasins, our rods tlirust into the bow ahead of us, wc lolled, inoked or (all but the Ecclesiastic), or read, oi- took notes, or chatted 1Y2 UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. lazily across the waters that parted canoe from canoe. Or at times, when we preferred it so, how sweet it was simply or " to watch the cmorakl-colored water falling From cave to cave through the thick-twined vine " ; " hearing the downward stream, With half-rhut eyes ever to neem Falling ael.ep in a half dream ! " We passed the embowered mouth of the quiet Wapskehesan, navi- gable for 20 miles, but said to contain no fish ; and a little farther we discovered what may have been a former channel of this stream. It was a sharply-defined, tortuous green lane, leading from the river's brink back into the wilderness, with alders and poplars and ash-trees dipping into it. Plainly it was not a roadway. It resembled the bed of a river from which the sparkling floods had been shut off, that the influent, liberal, grassy tide of summer might flow in thci by and brighten over the land. Leaving behind the " Wapsky " and its problematical ancient de- bouchemnit, we came to one of the lions of the Tobique, the beautiful " Plaster Cliff." The opposite shore is low and luxuriantly wooded, with a mat of vinos over trees and underbrush. The cliff itself rises so sheer from the water's edge that only in one or two places was it possible to land ; and its face, about 100 ft. in height, is a many -col- ored rock so soft that we could carve out specimens with our knives. The surface crumbles rapidly under the frost and " The stealthy depredations of gray raiu " ; and the settlers, in winter, come from miles about and haul it to their farms as a fertilizer. The naked wall loomed over us, but could not look forbidding with its lovely mixture of cool blues and grays, reds and browns and yellows and umbers, somber purples and rosy or creamy whites. Wheresoever there was a ledge, or fissure, or gen'le slope, theie would be gathered a rich detritus bearing a perfect hang- ing-garden of wild flowers. The pendulous cups of the hai-e-bell swung airily from every crevice, sometimes so thickly as to hang a veil of blue lace- work over many square yards of the rock. From the dizzi- est shelves drooped the twisted pcagreen cables of the vetch, studded with its vivid purple blossoms ; and the white aromatic yarrow flung a Silvery numtle over the lowermost slopes. I have never seen in nature UP THE tobiqup: by canoe. 173 another color-harmony so exquisite. The Artist was enraptured, and wished his pencil were compounded of the rainbow, ratlier than of sober graphite. The Ecclesiastic found a sermon of marvelous elo- quence in these stones. Above Plaster Cliff the river runs through a wide belt of red sand- stone, remarkable for its depth and strength of tone. The next land- mark in my memory— or should I style it a " water mark ? "—is the Oxbow. This is a curious and strongly defined double bend in the river, and we reached it late in the afternoon. Here, instead of the airiness and park-like effects of hard wood shores and grass, wo had a sort of warm and cheerful shadow, deep, quiet, olive waters, rioh-hued, close-drawn shores of fir and cedar, and rocks all muffled in moss.' We paused awhile, in hope of striking a salmon. We tried our most alluring flies, but the salmon, if on hand, were apparently not open to inducements. The trout, however, were very numerous, and rose finely, besides being of a larger size than any we had hitherto taken. The Ecclesiastic chose to fish from shore, whither Steve followed to help land the larger fish ; the Artist also went ashore, to sketch ; but with Tom's assistance I fished from the canoe. Steve had been evinciu"- some desire to try his own dusky hand at the sport ; so at last the Ect clesiastic handed him the rod for a moment, with a few cautionary hints, and betook himself up the bank to a spring he had espied among the rocks. I held my hand to watch Stove, as he stood proudly wield" ingthe unaccustomed lance-wood; and in that posture the Artist im- mortalized him. All the preliminaries the Indian accomplished with skill; but presently a fair-sized trout took one of his flies, and started off up stream with it. Now Steve was in a piteous qi.andary. He had forgotten all that he- had been told to do. He did not understand the reel, and was afraid the rod was going to break. He simply stood and looked, with an expression of profound concern on his mahogany face. When the trout started back, he pulled in some of the slack with his fingers, gingeriy enough, but let it go at once when the fish started off again. No one would go to his assistance uninvited, lest he should wound the Melicitc dignity. At last a variation was introduced. A large fish seized the disengaged fly, as it trailed about the pool ; and then Steve turned frantically and raised a cry for help. The Ecclesi- astic, with immense laughter, ran up and seized the rod; and after a sharp struggle both prizes wo j brought to basket. The two toj/ether weighed a pound and three quarters, and Steve most complacently 174 UP TIIK TOBIQUK BY CANOE. plumed himself on beinc; tlieir captor. For all that, however, he would not touch the rod again ; perhaps dreading lest a more dubious success might cast tarnish upon his piscatorial laurels. Just beyond the Oxbow we came to the mouth of the GuUpiac, of the Tobique's most important affluents. A little below it we saw a deep, eddying pool, in which lay several salmon. They dispersed at our coMjing, but we marked the spot. At the Guhpmc was a small island, treeless and grassy and stcmy, on which we encamped. Then, leaving the Artist to sketch, the ^lelicites to get supper ready, the Ecclesiastic and I took a canoe and dropped down to look for those salmon. They had not yet returned, however; so, promising to call again next morn- ing, we poled back to the Gulquac. This river joins the Tobique in a long, straight, shallow race, just swift enough to dimple and bubble deliciously. The place was alive with trout, of all sizes saving the largest. We used a small, biown fly, and in half an hour took four dozen, ranging from six or seven ounces to three quarters of a pound. As the dusk thickened we put on small moths, and with a lavender- colored fly I killed two fish that closely approached the pound. The Ecclesiastic, just as we decided to reel up, struck a large fish that gave him good fight, and, with his usual slice of luck, brought it safely home. It went a pound and thirteen ounces. We reveled in trout hencefor- ward till we began fm-tively examining our sides and shoulders t( see if little rows of vermilion spots were beginning to come out upon us, or fish-bones to stick through our skin. That night we named our halting- place Camp Mosquito. In the morning the Ecclesiastic and I paid an early visit to the pool, in accordance with our resolve of the evening before. We were fortunate enough to find the salmon at home. Tying the canoe to a projecting branch a little above the pool, we made long and crafty casts right down to the critical spot. We used small, quiet flies, such as are most killing in the Nepisiguit, and played them lightly over the surface. I'resently, as my fly fell softly on the outermost edge of the eddy, there came a strange little whirlpool right beneath it, followed by a screech from my reel. The Ecclesiastic dropped his rod as if it had burnt him, slipped the knot, and seized a paddle to be ready for assisting me. Like a bow of silver the saUnon shot into the air, straightened himself, and fell slap on the s[)ot where he expected the line to be. But it wasn't there— I had dropped my rod-tip in time. Without a pause, another and wilder leap, right toward the canoe ; and ^ UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 175 we saw him fiercely shake at the tiny feather sticking fast in his jaw. Then, after two more leaps, and an attempt to dart under the canoe, foiled by a strong sweep of the Ecclesiastic's paddle, he hummed off down stream, while the reel sang, and the canoe followed as fast as our paddle could urge it. When he had taken off about sixty yards of my line he turned for an up-stream scurry, which was hard on my paddle but still harder on himself. I dared to check him severely while going in that direction. Then came another series of leaps, and another rush, and not till after twenty minutes of fight did the splendid fish seem to grow perceptibly weaker. At last those mighty rushes became short and of little account; he lay half on his side close by us, and the Ecclesiastic lifted the gaff. But the sight seemed to rouse him to one last effort. He whizzed off and brought up blindly in a shallow pool close to shore. We drew in and cut off his retreat. The Ecclesiastic has a just dislike to the gaff, so he slipped overboard into the shallow water, with a swift motion got both arms beneath the fish, and threw him out ui)on tlie grass. Poor salmon, what a gallant fight he had made! We gave him an instant quietus, and gazed upon him with respect and admiration. " How about the favored clergy now ? " in- quired the Ecclesiastic, as we poled homeward. I said nothing; and that salmon went thirteen pounds. This day's voyaging was pleasant, though abo:^t midday the heat was so appalling as to drive us to covert. Early in the day we reached Two Brooks, which is the singular name given to one small brook run- ning through a little settlement. At its mouth was a salmon-weir, running out nearly to mid-stream. To our right rose, in hazy grandeur, the twin sunmiits of Blue Mountain, its nearer slopes a stony and fire- scathed wilderness ; on our left the brawling brook, some rich groves, the gray little village, and fields of charred stumps, all muffled in deep grasses. The fishing here, for numbers, was superb. There was no limit to it, apparently. The Artist built him a lean-to, that he might sketch in shade; and he penciled a masterpiece. This masterpiece, since rendered permanent with ink and Chinese white, depict? the Ecclesiastic with his trousers rolled far above his energetic knees, the skirts of his clerical coat (donned in deference to the neighboring civilization) dragging in the water, established as near mid-streain as wading would place him, while he throws his whole heart into dropping his fly into the very back-wash of the weir. Myself, averse to exertion, conspicuous by my lightness of attire, am fishing from the canoe. The ! I i i 176 UP THE TOBIQUE BY OANOE. Artist himself appears not in the masterpiece, which is so far in- complete. As through the afternoon we continued " Ever climbing up the climbing wave," we narrowly escaped .being run down by a voyaging squirrel. This brave little voyager was making aci-oss current (iJaronally, ai'd seemed to us somewhat exhausted. The Ecclesiastic, -arest, stretched out his paddle to the bushy navigator, who strai-' ^ climbed aboard, and sat up, dripping but " chipper," upon the bow of the canoe. Con- ducted courteously to the other shore, which he reached, by a daring leap, before we had time fairly to land him, he whis^ked off without a word of acknowledgment or a hint of paying his fare. Later we passed a green snake swimming along complacently, and wc concluded the creatures were sanctioning the pernicious practice of bathing in the heat. We accepted his sanction as valid ; and at the next pool, in- stead of fishing, wc swam. Toward sundown we reached a couple of small islands, below which the fishing was excellent and the fish large. The trout rose all around us, took our flies greedily, and it was most re- luctantly that we tore ourselves away. A mile farther on we encamped on a tempting point of dry, sweet meadow, round which the river swept in a narrowed channel ; and Steve, pointing to the deep, rapid curve, said : " Plenty salmon here, mebbe ; ugh ! " We all tried for these straightway, even the Artist, while supper was getting ready; but we took only two or three trout and a wretched chub. Next morning, however, brought us better fortunes. Standing at the lower corner of the bend, I raised a small salmon at n .> second throw ; but there was some flaw in the casting-line, and lie sailed off, to my deep disgust, with two flies and a couple of yards of gut. Thereafter, I suppose, he tried some fishing on his own hook. A few minutes later I heard a shout from the Ecclesiastic on the other side of the point. Rushing to him, I found him busy with what was evidently a first-rate fish ; when brought to book, after a quarter of an hour's excitement, it proved an eleven-pounder. Not far beyond this camp we sighted Bald Mountain, rising some miles back from the river, out of the midst of cedar swamps. Here is the little settlement of Riley's Brook, endowed with the most primitive affair in the way of post-office that I have ever yet discovered. We mailed letters here, exceeding brief ones, consigning them, with certain mis- f UP THE TOBIQUE BY CANOE. 177 yivingfl, to tlie care of the primitive postmaster — a rheumatic old lady. Then we i)ushed on for tlie Forks, bidding good-by to the last of To- bique civilization. The next few miles were through a fire-stripped country. We sighted here a bald-lieaded eagle, which, perched on the top of a bleached pine trunk, kept guard over the surrounding desola- tion. His perch was but a stone's-throw back from the stream, and as we approached he stretched out hia lean neck, his flat, sharp, snake- like head, and surveyed our movements inquisitively. Wiien we had got well past he seemed to repent having let us off so easily, and yelped after us some choice maledictions. Then we came to the Forks. The Forks of the Tobiiiuc— this was one of the chief objective points of the expedition. Here is the trout-ground of the river; and here, too, a favorite resort of the salmon. Three large streams at this point flow together. From the southward comes the Campbell River, more commonly called the Kight Branch ; next, the Mamozekel — " River of Alders," as the Melicite hath it— forming the middle tine of this delectable fork ; and from the northward the Left Uranch, alias the Little Tobique, alias the Nictor. Where these waters gather in conclave the shores draw somewhat apart, inclosing a spacious, deep, sandy-bottomed basin, full of quietly-circling eddies and swirls. The southward walls of this watery amphitheatre are low and rankly wooded, but on the north they are high and bare, forming an airy perch whereon we pitched our tent The tongues of land between the converging streams were, for the most part, of luxuriant weedy meadow, melodi- ously noisy with bobolinks. While dining on the height we gloated over the liberal-bosomed pool spread out below us, and as soon as din- ner was over, leaving the Artist to his pencil, we took two of the canoes and crossed to the side where the Right Branch emptied in. The Ecclesiastic stationed himself upon one side, I on the other, while our Melicites held us in position by thru;,ting down their paddles into the sand. For a time the sport was merely good, not markedly better than much we had left behind us ; and the fish were fastidious, takiiig noth- ing but a smallish gray and yellow fly. Our persevering casts for a salmon elicited no response whatever. Then the breeze moderated, as the sun began to cast lengthening shadows, and all at once the pool became alive. Here and there a magnificent trout, of almost any num- ber of pounds, according to our excited eyes, would leap with the com- plete abandon of the smaller fry ; and the smaller fry themselves seemed to spend a large part of their time in the air. We shifted our flies a 18 i 178 UP THE T0I3IQUE BY CANOE. little, but soon found that the trout of Tobiijue Forks, when bent on niakhi*;,' a meal, wouhl make it of whatever niij^ht eoiue handiest. Each new fly seemed better than the hist. The half and three-quarter pound fish were reeled in with an alacrity which set glisteninjij the eyes of our stoical Melicites. I liad ali'cady, after a series of brisk tijihts, taken several lively one-and-a-half-i)ounders, and in the bottom of my canoe lay a deep-set, solid trout that 1 flattered myself would go over the two pounds. The Keclesiastie, to judge from his joyoiis occasional shouts, was being no less successful. At last, as it drew near sundown, and our wrists had grown well-nigh helpless, I caught a sharp exclamation from the Ecclesiastic, which made me turn to look at him. He was so occupied that I thought he had hooked a salmon. Just then the fish rolled half out of water, and I saw it was indeed a trout, but one of patriarchal proportion" '' A five-pounder ! " I shcuted, frantically ; but the fisherman shut his lips and said never a word. lie had need of all his faculties. This trout gave him the work of a salmon of more than twice his size. The strife was long and desperate, but kept within the circle of the pool, and, when the Ecclesiastic netted his prize at last, it was without having moved a hand-breadth from his post. Just from the water this trout well cleared four pounds. It was the fish of the trip. The Ecclesiastic afterward struck, and lost, one which he consid- ered larger (this was on the following day) ; and one which I am ready to swear to as the historical five-pounder, rose in a dilettante fashion to inspect my " Jock Scott " when I was on the (piest for salmon ; but I can't deny that these weights are problematical. The fish stayed not long enough to permit of my being more accurate. 3fy best trout of the expedition went several ounces short of the three-pound scratch ; but, when we came to brag of salmon, I was away ahead of the Eccle- siastic. We put in two more days at the Forks, in the course of which we discovered that the salmon had a penchant for the lower part of the pool, where I killed three more, good fish, the Ecclesiastic at the same time scoring a couple of grilse. The Tobique salmon do not rise so freely as those of the Nepisiguit or Miramichi. As for the number of trout which we had taken — and early we stayed our hands — the Indians salted them down in birch-bark crates. We imagined the mahogany youngsters at Tobique mouth reveling in the fruits of our prowess ; and we imagined them so vividly that the artist forthwith made a sketch of our imaginings. And thus we felt no scruples on the abundance of our catch. rr THE TOmQUE BY CANOE. 179 Before we set out for up the Nictor we had to endure a break ,n our little party. The Ecclcsia.tie had duties in town whu-h rcpured ll to be back at a eertain day, and .arly on our thud day at the FoTk. '.e took his departure. We supplied bin. with rubber blankelB for a lean-to, and with sundry of the ehoieest delieuc.es frou. on. eon. Lissarlat; and alter a sorrowful farewell we watched hn. and h s faithful Steve glide oft" with the current. As for us who were left be- • d for a whit we fell into a kind of n.elaneholy. Rousn., ourselve at la;t we struck tent, shipped our duunage, and .na e ready to ascend the Nictor. Our ain. was Little Tobi.iue, or Nietor Lake, with 8 guardian mountain. We got off at about eleven, and our htt e flot. la Appeared to us sadly diudnished. We missed the Eceles.ast.c s unflag- g r. ardor, and the Artist could find no heart to sketch, the pen^e^^ to fake notes or flourish his lat.ce-wood. The pohng at hrst was d ffi ul , as the Nietor here flows over a formation of flagstones and slate-ledges, aif rding poor hold to the poles. Passing this we n.de good headway and stopping for b.neh at the mouth of Cedar Brook fon.nd the trou arge, hr^gry, and abundant. The Artist became fisherman here and w?tried lid to shake off our depression. We were stayed more tuu. onee by windfalls, large trees blown right across the channel, and s ^- eral of the rapids we scaled were very shoal, as our canoes bore pamful witness. Throughout the day a fly, wherever cast, was sure to ra.se a fish By sundown we had covered two thirds of our way, and we en- camped where a little nameless brook flows in from the north I sha.l nevr forget how the sand-flies swarmed at this camp. Theybur.-owed into our nostrils, our ears, our hair. They developed a most depraved taste, an actual craving, it seemed, for our tar o.ntment, m wh.eh we hid fairlv soaked ourselves. The evening fishing was utterly spoiled for us We retreated to the tent, which the Indians walled about w.th a chain of " smudges" ; then, when we had recovered from our pa.je^ we began loudly exulting in the discomfiture of our foes. A loai.n fire ot dry pine-logs, the pleasant smell of the cedar smudges a good supper, and a comfortable couch in the glow, soon restored us to some- thhv^ like our wonted cheerfulness. We sang songs, smoked our pipes and^shouted many a warm greeting to the solitary canoe w^.eh had forsaken us, and which we pictured as, by this time, poss.bly shdmg down by the W^apskehegan's mouth. Next day we made ^ever a halt to fish, and in the early afternoon shot out upon the steely mirror of Lictle Tobique Lake. The scene I 1 180 vv Tin-; ToiutiUK nv (^anok. wnH n most <.pprossivc. in its stillnoss an.l its s„„.Ikm. n.aj.sty. non.ul ho I«Iu..sho,.s w... masses ,.f .....k sv..„it.., with ....uallv .lark swa.n,,- forests .„tonn,nKlo.l ; an,l nntr tl.Hak..'s I.a.i ros. Ni;.,,,- Mountain a boHhn. nak,.d cone of feldspar, lV<,„.nin, into snI,je...ion the lesse h.Ils whu.h enMu-he,l an,l hu.kiUHl a.oun.l. The water was of m-ent |H.th, u-e-eoM, a.wl eoIoHess. The woo.is appea....! to harb,!;. no bn.is or s<pMnels, an.! th.. only fan.iliar sonnd whieh K,.....|e,i „s was he p.p.ngof the frogs, which arose towani eve .,.. ^v, seal...! Victor Monntau., which is so.ne 2,..0() ft. hijrh, an.! fron. its s,.nn..it Innl such a imnorama of hills, a.al rivers, an.l lakes, as I have .lescribci elsewhere as seen ron, the peak of Sugar-Loaf. We note.I <.ld Sugar-Loaf on he bnght northwestern horizon. At this place we sp.w.ra day and two n.ghts, hn,hng no lack of sport in the gloou.y waters; bu't the region provo.l too .evore and chilling for us, and its atn.osphere of Htony endurance crept into our very souls. " Tlje HtranKe-scrawlcd rocks, the lorcly sky, If r iniKht lend (licir life a voice, Socni to boar rather llian rejoice." We had not time at our disposal to portage to Nepisiguit Lake and descend that wd.l riv,>r. As we hastened away with the racing current on our downward trip, one n.orning, we seen.c.l to leave behind us a whole nu,untain of vicarious woe. We stopped not till we reached the *orks that same afternoon. After a successful evening's sport in the welMoved pool, we found hat now we had little roon, to spare m the canoes, on account of the Indmns cargo of salt-fish. Thenceforth we killed but enough for each meal. ()„ our down trip we made great progress, and traveled luxuri- ously. My remembrance of it is, for the most part, a confusion of greens and blues and browns, streaming awav behind us as we fle.l with a vu'.d effect in rose an.l while at lied Kapids, and a stu.ly in black, with lightning high-lights, when we made the passage of the Narrows d.uing a thunderstorn,. We ran the Red Rapids about noon m a reckless mood, with enthusiasm and hair-brcadth escapes. At the isarrows we kept our hea.ls level, for the stream was pretty full- and the passage, an.id the roar of the surges, the vollcyings of the ponderous tliunder, the streaming of the rain, and the blue dartings of the light- nin:,^ fron. cliff to cliff; was thrilling enough for all reasonable demands A half-hour later we were in Andover, at Perley's Hotel, donning the " »V It All, FROM WOODHTOCK. IgJ Karl, of dvilizati.,,, with a .l.^ro,. of hu.r,. ,„„,.v..l,M.sly .vr.WvnU.l ly By Rail from Woodstock. l"'.o.n Wo,„|s.ool< ,1.0 C. P. ,t. H. ,„„„, f„, „,., ,„„„^ . w ....... to „,.,,.. n.,,,„. .n,..,.^.., ,,,,,,j . , ^^ . / - N .. ).. ..n. .,.,,,0 .nhal.ita..ts, a,.,l is a p..o«.vHHivv li„|.. tew .. Tn. i " -yon. DH..... J.„u.tio,. is tl... statio.. .,f Widd.a.... Tl... Ia,.,l. a s ., Ma..!!., Ik. call...! ..xli.la.ati,.^?. S.>Mu.ti„M.8 tl.rn. is a little anncar f- dca. .,1 ,..l.|s a,.o patcl...s of swoc.t-H...olli... .....kwhoat. Ah a .-. ho ro..os s oo..s.st e..i..,v of g.-a, ..ow,.... a,.„ the t..n„|.s of „ ad' tru I„ I: ,0 su„..„o.-, how,.v..,-, the l„.i||i.u,t hlosso.ns of the fi.-e VVoo,ls,K.U ,s the statio,. of AW /,/.., ,,,, „„,, ,, „, .^ ^^ ' />^..// Sfano., i„ ,he ..ei,,hho,-hoo.l of th.. fa„.o..s .S/v//.I , " ^ s watc.. .H taken the Ia„,llock,.,l sah„<.,. o.- "shi..e,," a .ln.ine:.,.t "J hsh, ve.., ,....eh like the o..a„a..iehe, hut n.nnh.g'to a la;;^^ e 'Z «" ove.-y way the pee.- of its ,.,0.. ,x.„ow,.e.l .elative, l^.t is at ti nvc,.e,l The statu,,, ol Dee.- I.tke, 42 „.iles f,-o,„ Woo.lstoek is a :"'''""' "'"^ ""'-' ""^.V K«'t •vf.esh.nentH i„ the Btation re8ta..,-ant ;^>ce, p..s.n, the statio.,s of i^u.he.. Da.n an.I r.aw..e,.ec, w^^ i .,/ ,/«.o/.., ,« ...ilos (Vo... >,,AUa...; he.-e a h.aneh di e.-gen to .S .Vry>/i.;,, a (listaiiec of 19 ,„i|,.H. ^ ' he St. C.O.X R.ve.-. It ,s a ce,.t...- of the h,„.be,-t,ade, a..l luts gn,w- "K n.an,.faet,..-es. (;„„ti,„o,.s with St. Stephen is AIMo^n w i h a a.ge c.,tton-,niII. To,.the.. the two towns have a populatio"; o 'e tween 4,000 a..,l 5,000. Ae..ss the .-i ve,-, and fo.-n.m 'pr^Zl y u'o ""•I'/'tan.s. JJotween these eon.nn.nities, though they .liffe,- in their Hllc.g.ance and theh- flag, there exist the closest hannony and most ti. l iTa aa t asi a sB aBW" ■'W*.^ 182 UY I4AII- I-'KOM \V(K>I)ST()(!K. mate mu-ial relations; but the bri(l','e8 eonncetiiif? tlieiii are (guarded by tlie eiistoins ollieials of hotli nations. Nevertheless, the neighbor- hood affords a fine field for interesting and sometimes sueeessfid snuij^gling experiments. In the War of 1812 St. Stephen and ('ahiis refused to eome to blows, jir to re^'ard eaeh (tther as enemies. The eliief hotel of St. Stephen is the Qnnn llotd. In Calais the best are the Ameriean House and St. Oroix Kxeiianf^e. At Milltown the naviga- tion of the riv«'r is elosed by falls. A steamer runs daily in smnmer, senii-vveekly in winter, down the river to aSV. Aiit/rrwH and h'us//)<>rf, eoimeetinij with the boats of the lutri'tiatimial S. S. Co. St. Ste|)hen is at present the western terminus of the (t'rand Sou/hern liailwai/^ wliieh runs eastward to St. John. From Calais a railway runs 21 miles N. W. to the foot of the Sc/toodir Lakes, whenee a small steamer as- cends to the famous fishinj^-j^rounds of (trnud Lakv Htreain, in Maine. Tlie lower lake is oeeujjied by pike, whieh have cleared out the more valuable game-(i!<h ; but the upper waters abound with br(>ok-trout, lake-trout, landlocked salmon, and piekorel. Near the foot of Big Schoodie dwells a tribe of the Quoddy Indians, among whom may be hired guides to the labyrinths of lakes and streams connecting with the Sehoodics. By short portages from these waters one may reach tribu- taries of the Penobscot and Machias. The main line from Watt Junction passes the little stations of Dum- barton (3 miles from the .Junction), Rolling Dam (7 miles), and here we touch the Dlgdiguash River, and follow its course some miles ; Hewitt's (8 nnles), Roix Ro td (12 miles), Waweig(14 miles), Bartlett's (16 miles), and Chamcook (22 nnles). Here the scenery becomes impressive. We skirt l*assania([Uoddy Bay. Chamcook Mountain is a steep and solitary mass, overlooking the bay and the quiet bosom of Chamcook Lake. A few miles above Chamtnaok, on the St. Croix, is the picturesque inlet of Oak Bay. At this point the St. Croix bends at right angles to its course, and forms, witii Oak Bay, a figure much resembling a cross, whence, according to tradition, is derived its name. Five miles beyond Chamcook Station we run into the delightful watering-place of St. An- drews, a village of two thousand and odd inhabitants, and the shire town of Charlotte County. Acadian history makes its real beginning at this point. To the St. Croix, in 160t, came Champlain and the Sifur de Monts, and planted a colony on a little grassy island within the river's mouth. A quad raugle of wooden buildings was erected, with a chapel, and the Govern- " BY KAIL FROM WnoDHTOCK. 183 or'a rosi(l(>nci'. In spite of the lafoncHs of tlio Hcanon, f^raln and vopo- tablcH were planted, anil a garden was laiil out, after the fashion, faintly, of tiiose olil j^anh-ns in Franee, for whieh, it may be, the colo- nists wore now a little lioniesiek. Hut in the hloak days of late autumn their situation was dreary enoufjh ; ami, beeausi; their crojis had failed to ri|K'n, they wen- eompelled to live nuiinly on salt meats, a diet whieh speedily alTeeted their health and s|)irits. At last winter came, and the snow, and the freezing winds; such cold as in their own land they had never learned to dr«'am of. The sleet drove in through the chinks of their ill-made l)nildings. Fuel was hardly to be obtained, and they shivered over their scanty fires, till, in spite of (Ihamplain's indomitable and never-failing cheerfulness, their hearts sank utterly within them. When disease broke out — scurvy in a terrible form, from their un- wholesome living — they fell an easy prey. ()\it of some 80 persons, but 44 survived, and these hardly. When the first warm days came they crawled forth in the sun like shadows. Scarcely could the sick be at- tended, tij dying ministered to, the dead buried. In the spring the island was abandoned, stripped of all that could be canied away ; the fortifications were dismantled, and the poor remnant of the colony fled over the bay to Port Royal. Now, the lighthouse-kec^per is the one man who makes Kt. Croix Island his home. When, in 178;i, the St. Croix River was fixed upon as tlie boundary between Maine and New Bruns- wick, it became a disputed (piesticm as to what was the true St. Croix. The Americans claimed that it was the river now known as the Maga- guadavic, much farther to the eastward ; but after much searching the dispute was laid to rest, and the Hritish claim established, by the dis- covery of the remains of Champlain's settlement, on Doncet's Island, above St. Andrews. St. Andrews is commandingly situated on a peninsula between the St. Croix — at this point two miles wide — and Passamaquoddy Bay. It was of old an important shipping center, with a great West Indian trade, but its supremacy has been stolen and divided by St. John and St. Stephen. The town is well laid out, in squares, with wide and well- kept streets, and, besides its charms of scenery and climate, it has inter- esting remains of old British fortifications. St. Andrews has expectations of a great commercial future, which may or may not be realized, though her harbor is certainly all that could be desired. As a summer resort her popularity is yearly in- creasing. She has her cool sea-breezes in the hottest months, her im- m M 184 BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK. munity from the Fundy fogs, her fresh and salt water fishin- More- over, she has her bathing, joyously indulged in by gay parties of young men and maidens, old men and children. The water, however, is some- • times uncomfortably cool. A favorite diversion at St. Andrews is the sport of lob.ster-spearing. In the cool of the morning, when the tide suits, there is a novel excitement in being rowed stealthily over the transparent green water, while, spear in hand, one peers eagerly into the masses of brown seaweed that dot the level bottom. In these clumps of seaweed lurks our bottle-green prey, closely resemblin- his surroundings in color, but betrayed by his red points. The lobster- spear .s not a spear at all, but a hook. It does not penetrate the lob- ster's shell, but catches under its belly among the small claws ; and one must be neat-handed and swift to land the nimble crustacean The excitement reaches its highest pitch after a few active lobsters have been captured and dropped loose in the boat, to investigate the merry hshei-men's ankles. In the way of hotels, St. Andrews has a reoular hostelry called the Cntral Exchange, also the large summer hotels^ the A>'!j,ill House and the Algonquin. Opposite the town is the American ship building village of Robbmston. Travelers who have come straight t irough by rail, without diverging to St. Stephen, will do well to vtsit the latter town by the up-river boat. They will find good scenery at Oak Bay, already mentioned, where stands the lovely pastoral village of the same name. Leaving Oak Bay, the steamer passes on the left a promontory called Devil's Head, named in somewhat ambiguous com- meu.oration of a settler named Duval who once dwelt thereon Three miles beyond is the ancient fishing village known as The Ledge- and another 4 miles brings us to St. Stephen. ' '^ ' Campobello and Grand Illanan. To visit the summer resorts of Grand Manan and Campobello one must lake the boat to Eastport. on tiie Maine coast. From East- port to Campobello, which is in Canadian waters, a ferrv-steamer runs every hour. The island has a permanent population of 1.100 inhab- itants, dwelling i-i the villages of Welchpool ami Wilson's Beach Cam- pobello is 8 miles long by 3 broad, and is traversed by beautiful drives commanding magnificent views from upland and lofty promontory Its anciont name was Passamaquoddy Island. In mi it was granted to Admiral W. Fitzwilliam Owen, who used to pace up and down in full 7 T BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK. 185 uniform on a quarter-deck which he built out over the rocks The ndmiral was not less peculiar in his death than in his life, for he was buned at night, by the light of candles in the little family church The island IS redolent with romantic memories and legends, and stories of ghosts, pirates, and wrecks. During the Fenian scare of 1866 a num. bar of ardent Irishmen gath.ered at Eastport to invade Campobello, but altered their benevolent intention. Admiral Owen's heirs of the pres- ent generation, becoming lired of the seclusion and quiet of Campo- bello, at length removed to England, and in 1880 the island was pur- chased by a syndicate of American capitalists, who have made it a sum- mer resort of the first rank. The old Owen Manor-IIouse has been enlarged into a most attractive hotel, called the Given, which retains many of the distinctive charms of its earlier days-the Lovers' Lane and the old-fashioned hedges, sun dial, and porter's lodge. Besides the Owen, the Campobello Company has erected two more summer hotels on the island. These are peculiarly handsome and strikin.^ buildings, and rejoice in the equally striking names of the Tiin-^i-Coedd and the Tyn-y-Mah, which signify respectivelv "The House in the Wood " and " The House in the Field." Smali'as the island is, it has variety ot scenery, and points of interest to visit-such as the lio^it- houses, the inlet, of Harbor de Lute, the bold promontory of Eust°ern Head, the beautiful cove and lake of Glen Severn, and the famous .andmark known as Friar's Head. This is a lofty detached mass of rock thrust up out of the sea, and its battered face bears witness to the lact that u has been used as a target for the guns of cruisino- war- ships. " The island of Graud Manan lies about 7 miles off the coast of Maine, but forms a portion of New Brunswick. Its people are quaint and hospitable, its summer climate delicious, its fishing and shootin- are good, and its scenery a well-nigh matchless blending of the beau! tilul and the grand. Moreover, it is not a rec,ular summer resort It lies out of the beaten tra-k, and is as yet perfectly unhackneyed. There are no gigantic summer hotels, and the visitor must as a rule find board in private house., whioh he may do very comfortablv and pleasantly at from 15 to $7 a week. There is the added charm of uncertainty as to when one will get there; and, this accon.plished, as to when one will get away. Grand Manan is reached by steamer from Eastport-verv easily and pleasantly when the weather suits, and not at all when the weather does not suit. There is also communication with St. John by '-fi 186 BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOOK. the steamer Flushing. Its harbors are small and not easy of access, its shores are terrific, and the vaiiety and velocity of the currents which the great Fundy tides succeed in creating in the island channels are something which must be seen to be realized. The island is 22 miles long, with an extreme breadth of 6 miles. It lies in the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, and has about 3,000 inhabitants, who occupy chiefly a thin line of settlements along the E. shore, and devote them- selves to the rich fisheries of the surrounding waters, which simply swarm with cod, haddock, and herring. The island was visited by Champlain in 1605, but for nearly two centuries thereafter it had no inhabitants bat the Indians. The Indians of Grand Manan are, like its white inhabitants, the most daring and skillful of fishermen'. It is marvelous to see them go out in their bark canoes upon the mighty waves that toss about those shores, and shoot porpoises, whose bodies in some miraculous manner they drag aboard their frail craft and carry safely to land. The chief village on the island is Grand Harbor, situated on a shallow bay. This village has a pretty little stone church and a typi- cal country inn. Near by are the small lakes called Grand Ponds ; and off the harbjr lie a number of small islands, connected with memories of Audubon, who spent some time among them in 1833, studying the habits of the gulls. From Grand Harbor a road leads around the S. shore to Seal Cove, and thence along the heights to Broad Cove. Nine miles off the coast at this point lie the Wood Islands and Gannet Rock Lighthouse. From Broad Cove a foot-path leads to Southwest Head, a lofty promontory, amid the grasses of whose summit the sea-gulls build their nests. Around the N. shore, 8 miles from Grand Harbor, lies Whale Cove, with surpassing views, and a beach on which one may pick up jasper and agates. Close by is Eel Brook Cove, where the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, with the loss of all on board. A little farther to the N. is the cape called Bishop's Head, with a pro- file thought to resemble that of a human face. Between Grand Harbor and Whale Cove we pass through Woodward's Cove, Flagg's Cove, and the matchlessly picturesque and artistic village of Sprague's Cove nest- ling under the S. shore of the high and storm-beaten peninsula called Swallow-tail Head. The W. coast is a frowning wall of cliffs from 300 to 400 ft. high, in which are the wild and romantic indenta- tions of Dark Cove and .Money Cove, where the ubiquitous Captain Xidd is supposed to have buried some of his treasure. On this coast "-I- •Ji* BY RAIL FROM WOODSTOCK. 187 also is Indian beacli, where a number of the Quoddy Indians pass the summer engaged in the porpoise-fishery already referred to. The island is in telegraphic communication with the mainland by a subma- rine cable to Eastport. Very lately one or two small hotels have been erected, the most prominent of which is the Marble Ridge House, near North Head. In the time of Charlevoix, if we may trust that ancient chronicler, there existed off the coast of Grand Manan a marvel, the vanishing of which can not be too deeply deplored. " It is even asserted that at three fourths of a league oft" Isle Menane, which serves as a guide to vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost alwnys covered by the sea, which is of lapis-lazuli. It is added that Commander de Razilli broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Denys, who had seen it, says that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." The Return to St. John. To St. John we may go either by boat or by rail. To go by boat we take the steamer Charles Houghton from St. Stephen or St. An- drews to East/iort, and thence the International S. S. Co. boat along the coast to St. John, past Deer Island, through Friar's Road and the Eastern Passage, through wonderful fishing waters, usually dotted with boats and sails, past the West Isles and the grim and terrible rocks called the Wolves, past the far-seen headland of Point Lepreaux, then the landmark called Split Rock, and round the dark mass of Partridge Island into the St. John Harbor. To go by rail, we take the Grand Southern or Shore Line at St. Stephen, its western terminus. It is proposed to continue this line westward through the coast towns of Maine to Bangor. Between St. Stephen and St. John by rail is a distance of 82 miles. The first sta- tion out of St, Stephen is Oak Bay (15 miles); then come Dyer's (20 miles), Bonny River (24 miles), and St. George (35 miles). This pretty little town has an extensive trade iti lumber and in the magnificent product of its red granite quarries. The town is on a high i)lain. Be- side it flows the Magaguadavic (commonly called Magadavy), which plunges into the harbor over a fall of 100 ft., through a chasm not more than 30 ft. in width. On the sides of the gorge cling saw-mills, from which the new-cut deals are sluiced into the foamin? basin below. Near St. George, in a neat among the rounded hills, is the lovely water 188 Tin-; HKiituN •(» HI'. .imiN. onlloil t.oW rfof>i,t, \vlio<i-in oih> iiihv Mini hoiiic ^^uimI (n»iif IInIiIiik. The pninilulioii of Si. (Icoij..- in 1.000 mi,! mlil. \\oyo\u\ S|. (;,Mnj-o luv llio sditioiiM «>r r.'imllcM (Id inlirs), N,mv |{Iv, , ^Ml miles), l,.'|tn'nux <ft8 iiiil«>s), I,(iiu«i»si,M- (0(1 luil.-s), MtiM.niKHli (Yii luil.'M), mill Spnu-.< l.iiico (';t\ milos). Spniiv l,ulu> Is 7 milrs rnim Si .Inliii. It in ii piolly hI»»>«'| or wiil.M', :. miles ill liMivrdi, mi.l „|„im|iiiiily hUioUimI with poirli, ll is (lie Hoiin-e iVimi wliicli ('nrlcloii (linws ils wnlei' siipplv. MiMwecii SpniO(> !,iiK»> iiikI Ciiili-ioii evleinis (lie pieKv diive Known mm (he Miihogiuiy Komi. Tlie lino helweeii St. Sleplieii iiml S(. .lolin \h |2.ftO. From Mowotou to Amherst. l.onvlnit Moiieloii by (lie {/■Jirhx /•.i/.m.* onr lit si M(oppiige Is ii(, I'liiiiMV .Imielioii. u .lislnnee «il' N miles. Tlioiiee, piissiii^v Meiiilow HrooU. we run duwii (lie vnlley ol' (lie .]/nnr<nih',h>l- (o (lie piospentiis At'iuiiiin funning vlllio;e of (lie same mime, (lie seal of Si. .losepli",-* ('.>lle;ve. Mijilil miles l'arlli<>i' on, '27 niil»>s IVom Moiieion. is (lie sleepy Iml lieiuiiiCnl liide (own of /^t/.'/ifv/, r, (Ik- sliire lown oC (lie lieli ooiinfy of Wesinioreliiiul. Doielnsler wiis oiiee ii fireiU sliip-lHiiltiin^ I'.MKor, iiml eniKiiiiis miu'li wimIiIi, lliougli ils liiisimss is (leeiiyin;j;. I(. Ii««< liinuisome priviUo residenei's, impoiliiiK freeslone (piinries, timi (lie ipiesliomihle (Kdiu'lioii of (lie Mtirilime Trovinees I'enilenliiiry, wliieh tinuvs soiiio visi(oi\s (o Doreliesler wlio mighi mil i;o (liere o(li^ er.>iso. From Doivliosler (lie niilioii I nmsiieross (lie lt>p of (lie lon^; peiiiii- sulu belwevMi Sliepody IJiiy iiiid ("iiml.erluml Hasiii, iiml sliiUes (lie Inl- (of lU (lie gnnviiijj; (own of S,u'fii'i'/<\ MS miles f-oin Mom-Ion. Siiekville is no( ii pivKy town, hut it is prespomus iiiui projiivssive. It lias a popiil.Xioii of nearly L',00i». an.l is tliinly spread out over a siieei'SHioii of low lii.ls of v\y'\\ red soil, overlookim; ilie (i)r,if 7\ui/r<tm,n- .U„rs/i,s ami (lie moiilli of (lie Taiilramiir l{iv«>r. The town has foundries and f«o(ones, is (he oontor of a boundlessly rich a^rieuldir.il ref;i«Mi, and tho western (enninus «)f (he (\i/»- 7'oniinifiin h'oihmi/, so ealled, whoso ollieirtl title. The New nninswiik and l'riiiet< Kdwanl Island Uuilwav, is .somowhal larjiv for so small a road, but ;)7 miles in Iimi^Hi. It also has (he important eduealional iiistitiilions of Mount .\llison Col- l»<jjo and Seminary and Hoys' Sehool, muler the aiispiees of the Me;h- odists. The eliief hotels are the firumirivk //,.»,sr ami /ii(fmt/o>ii,i/ Hofrl. Saekville is a ship-biiildin>r eeiiter ; and all aloii^- the pietiuvs<pu« »vmK which Kad^ throu-ih the \ i!!au;es of Westm-k, Woodpoint, and ti J ^M Cape Porcupine. Cape St. George, from Husti nys. ti ":rn~r-~: 1 FROM MONOION TO AMIIER8T. 189 Pvoekport, down the peninsula to North .Io.-i„s one ,n«v «nn i • he t,de returns, red and foaming, and the noisy current Tushesfrlf land, rcstn,g not till the chasm is full to its .ra'ssv hZ V u the e. ,.ng process, which goes on ^lT£:Z^^Zj":: ^Z to the utmost of the ebb T1>p fironf t„ * « tumult are now on the hthm^io /i^* rv • ^ f"']"« *eicn. >v e of the Oulf „, S, I ? ''■ '•' "'''"'• '"''"■<'«" ">« w»to« s.*: r- ;r r-' ' --"*-— ~ = -u. _„Qn,..onng v^eva cfaauueis, or a flooding from the 190 FROM MONCTON TO AMHERBT. tide. The historic interest of the region centers around tlic ohl Fort Cumberland^ or " Ueuusejoiir,'' wliich stands about midway across the isthmus, on a long ridge of uplands just beyond Aulac Station. The old French Fort of Heaus6jour figures very prominently in the enchanting pages of Parknian. It played an important part in those events which culminated in the expulsion of the Acadians in 1755. When Acadie was ceded finally to England, the French claimed that the name applied only to the peninsula, and not to that portion of old Acadie which now constitutes New Brunswick. They made the line of the Missiguash (a tidal stream cleaving the marshes just S. E. of Beaus^jour) the dividing line between French and English territory, and raised the strong fort of Beausd'jour to guard these limits. A little beyond tho Missiguash runs a line of low uplands, on which the English erected the v,-p{><>sing stronghold of Fort Lawrence. Back of Fort Law- rence, on undoubtedly English territory, clustered the thriving Acadian village of Bcaubassiv. Between the rival forts went on continual skirmishings. Bcaus^jour was a center of operations for the unscru- pulous Abbe Le Loutre, who devoted his energies to keeping the sore open between the Acadians of the peninsula and their new masters. Many of these Acadians he forced by threats and actual violenct> to de- sert their farms and rei love to French territory, where many of them suffered every privation. When he saw the village of Beaubassin prosperous and growing content with English rule, he and his Indian followers burnt the settlement, and compelled the villagers to gather about Beausejour. On one occasion, when a party of English, under Lieutenant Howe, were approaching from Fort Lawrence with a flag of truce, they v/ere fired upon by the abbe's Christianized savages from behind a dike, and Howe was slain. For this infamous piece of treach- ery Le Loutre was openly blamed by the French officers of Beausejour, and his unscrupulous policy incurrv'^d also the reprobation of the best of the Acadian parish priests. In lYSS Governor Shirley, of Massa- chusetts, and Governor I^awrence, of Nova Scotia, undertook the re- duction of Beausejour. The Massachusetts troops were led by Colonel John Winslow. The whole expedition was commanded by General Monckton. The French defense, conducted by the disreputable com- mandant Vergor, a tool of Bigot's, was of the feeblest Le Loutre proved himself by far the better soldier. To this day we may see in the vaulted ceiling of the bomb-proof the great hole made by an English shell which came through when the officers were at breakfast, t FROM MONCTON TO AMHERST. 191 ■^ and in its explosion Itilled six of them, toj^ctlier with nn English officer who liad been tal<on prisoner a lew days before. Tiiis settled the contest ; and, in spite of tlie passionate protest of Le Loutre and one or two officers, Verj^or capitulated. In the evening a body of British troops marched in, and Vergor celebrated his brilliant defense by a dinner to the French and English officers — at which, however, Le Loutre was not present, having escaped in disguise. After its capture the fort was rechristened Fort Cumberland. After rounding the slope of Fort Cumberland we cross the Missi- guash and come to Fort Lawrence Station, whence we see a little to our right the works of the Chignecto Ship Railway — which will be most conveniently visited, liowever, from Amherst, a couple of miles beyond. On the skirts of Amherst we cross the little tidal stream of the La Planche, and, quitting the marshes, run into the busy depot, thronged with freight-cars. As soon as we crossed the Missiguash we were in the province of Nova Scotia, which will b*^ referred to more fully in another place. Amherst is a very busy town, whose population of between 4,000 and 5,000 is increasing with great rapidity. It lies 49 miles from Moncton, 138 from Halifax. Its people arc remarkable for their enterprise. It has a number of handsome public end private buildings, along with much of the crudity of a new town. With a rich agricultural and mining country behind it, and its practical control of the traffic of the Ship Railway, now nearly completed, the outlook is very bright for the future of Amherst. It has a short railway running down the coast to the coal-mines of South Joggins, interesting to visitors as the place where the monster rafts of logs are put together to be towed to the New York market. But, of course, the chief " lion " of Amherst, which can not but continue a perennial attraction to tourists, is the Ship Rail- way just mentioned. The originator and promoter of the Chignecto Ship Railway is Mr. H. G. C. Ketchum, M. I. C. E., a distinguished Canadian engineer, who advocated the scheme for years before he could convince people of its feasibility. Ever since the beginning of the century there has been a demand for a canal across the isthmus, in the way of which, however, there have a ways been found great difficulties. All the purposes of a canal, and many more, will be served by the ship railway at a much less cost. Associated with Mr. Ketchum in the enterprise are the great English engineers Sir John Fowler and Sir Benjamin Baker. The ■ ■ " I III lu ll iiiii n I ■«i m »|i n i m i 102 FROM MONCTON TO AMIIERHT. broad roa(l.b,(i, carrying a (loiil.lc track 18 ft. wide from center to center, runs fro... tlie ,„o..th (.f the La Planche to Tidnisl, on North- umberland Ht.ait. A vast dock h being constructed at each ter.n.nnH At the inner end of the dock in a lifting-dock 2ao ft. long by 00 ft' w.de, on which ships of 1,000 ton« will ho lifted by powerful hyd.anlic presses a he.ght of 40 ft. without disturbh.g their ea.-goes o their pas- sengc-s. The sh.p.car.iagc, on which the ship will be hauled by two gigant.c locomotives ha.-nes8ed abreast, so to speak, is called the e.adlc and d.v.do8 the great weight on 240 wheels. The cadle is 235 ft Ion-' and may cany either one large ship or two smaller vessels. IJy this route ships f.-om the St. Lawrence and the Great L.kes for St. John and the Xew E..gland coast, which now have to go thi-ough the Gut cf tanso, or m some weather all the way round Cape Breton, will save in the fo.-mer case 500 .niles, in the latter case 700 ..dies. The amount of tonnage belo.iging to St. Lawrence and Fundy ports, which may be expected t. n.ake use of this ship railway, amounted, in 1888, to not less than 10,182,327 tons, which is exclusive of the lake fleets and the Ame.-,can fishing fleets. The toll o.. the railway will be 50 cents a ton ^^oZww! "w, '' ''"'' " *'" "" '""•^- '^•'^ '-'^"^^•^y ^••" «««* -bout $6,000,000. When .t is completed a line of steamers will run between .V. Jo/m and Charlottdown, and the traveler will have the novel ex- pc-ience of watching tVorn his vessel's decks a lovely landseapo of meadows and orcha.-ds unroll below him as he .noves slowly across the isthmus. The sensation will be unique, as this is the wo.ld's only ship railway. ^ At present we reach Fort Law.ence and the railway works by a dnv. across the n.a.sh from Amherst, but it is p.-oposed to open .shortly an electric railway between the two points. The Tid- nish terminus is reached by stage f.om Amherst. The best hotels of Amherst are the Terrace Hotel and the Amherst Hotel. F.om here we may continue on by the Intercolomal RaUwai/ to Truro a dis- tance of 7»i miles, and thence either to UaHfax or to Pietou P. E. Island, a.id Cape Breton. The ro..te wo propose following at present, however, now takes us back to Fainsec Junction, 8 miles this side of Mo.icton. s o "^ a 1. Ill I PRINCE REWARD IHLAND. 198 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. The faro from Moncton to Charlottetown by way of Point du Chene and Sum,ner.^de in |8.50 ; return. «5.;m. Fro,,. Painsc-c Junction to Po,nt du Chfine Is 12 milos. Nine mllcH f.-on. the Junction we come to the pretty nummor resort of Shediac, a village fan,ous for Its oysters and Its sea-bathmg. Shedluc has a ve,ygood hotel, the WeUon House and .s much frequented during the hot ,„onths by the citizens of JW TZv ""!. V-? 1''"' '*•'''■ ^"'"'^ '>' ' <^'>'»»>i»"tlon of dust and heat. At Shcl.ac the tide flows In over long stretches of red and sun-warmed sand, and its temperature at high water is luxurious. Point du Chcne .B a sandy promontory 3 miles long, running out from Shcdiac into the waters of Northumberland Strait. About its wharves clusters a village From this point the fine steamers of the P. E. I. Navigation Co sail l!hn ^'Lf "T^'-f « «" '^' ^"^^^ «f the morning express from St. John. The steamboat fare from Shediac to ^Mm,»m«/. is $160 The distance Is 36 miles. Our first sight of the Island Is a glimpse of the low red chffs of Cape Egmont, far on our left. Soon afterward we are steaming up Bedcque Ray, at the head of which lies the prosperous and dusty ship-buildmg town of Summerside, with a population of some- thing over 3,000 and a heavy export trade In agricultural produce call Jh tv r' ^r'Tu^" '™'"''* '* '^' confederation. Is sometimes called the Garden of the Gulf. It Is separated from New Brunswick and Nova Scotia by Northumberland Strait, whose ice in winter some- times shuts off the island from communication with the rest of tho with difficulty and danger by means of open boats, which are alter- nately dragged over the Ice-cakes and pushed through the loose ice for a distance of 9 miles between Cape Traverse on the island and Cape Tormentine on the New Brunswick shore. The Canadian Government spends great sums every year in the effort to keep open during the win- ter a ma.1 and passenger communication, and has had constructed a powerful steamer the Stanley, especially designed for penetrating the If thJ n ^""*' ^"l^^^'-' ^'^'^ »«t be said to meet all the requirements of the case. The islanders are demanding a tunnel or a subway be- tween Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and, gigantic as the scheme appears, it will doubtless ere long become an accomplished fact Ine extreme Innot), nt t>j,;v,-,„ pj i r , , . ,_. .—_-.. ..I , r.nve i^unuxa iwland is ifio miles and ita 194 PKINCE EDWAKD ISLAND. greatest width 84 miles. Owing to its numerous bays and inlets it has an enormous extent of coast-line. It has no lofty hills, no rocks, no barrens, but is everywhere cultivable. Its soil is a rich, red loam, mar- velously productive, from the prevailing color of which the islanders get their local nickname of " Redfeet," to distinguish them from the "Bluenoses" of Nova Scotia and the "Buckwheats" of New Bruns- wick. The island is particularly noted for its oats, potatoes, horses, and oysters, and has fisheries of great value. There is some good trout-fishing in the little rivers which intersect the island, and along in June fascinating sport may be had with a scarlet fly, casting in the bays and inlets for the sea-trout, which at that season come in in great numbers from the gulf. These are a magnificent game-fish, running from 3 to 5 pounds in wei^'ht, and are usually taken by casting from side to side while running before a light breeze. One of the best places for this fishing is Sf. Peter's Bay, about 30 miles from Char- lottetown, the provincial metropolis. The history of the island is not exciting, and derives such color as it has chiefly from the Acadians. It is said to have been visited by Cabot in 1497. Champlain considered himself its discoverer, touching its shores on St. John's day, 1608, and naming it, with his usual lack of invention, Isle St. Jean. At this time it was inhabited by the Mic- macs, who gave it the name of Epayguit, or, as it is better spelled, Abegweit, which signifies " Anchored on the Wave." . Early in the eighteenth century, when England had conquered Nova Scotia, a few Acadians moved to the island, where they prospered so that the settle- ment rapidly increased. In 1758, when it was taken possession of by the English, it had a population of 4,100 Acadians. In 1763 it be- came a part of Nova Scotia, and was granted in lots tu 100 English and Scotch gentlemen, who undertook to colonize their grants within ten years. In 1770 the island was made a tieparute province, and its infant capital was captured by the Americans in 1775, who, however, did not hold it long. In 18<^0 it received its present name, in honor of the Duke of Kent, the father of Queen Victoria. In 1803, 800 Scotch Highlanders were settled in the island by the Earl of Selkirk, and the population increased rapidly by immigration. The province entered the Canadian Confederation in 1873. From Summerside, whose chief hotels are Russ's, CampbeH's, and the Mnwlei/ Hume (known also as the Clifton), one may follow the P. E. I. R. R. north through St. Eleanors, Miscouche, Wellington, Port Hi!! U '-'Ba.ly t«; a ■-0 PRLNCE EDWARD ISLAND. 195 8h.p.bm d.ug village on Richmond Bay), Richmond, Northam, Port Hm, Ellersue, Conway, Portage (where the island is not more than 4 or 5 miles wide), Colman, O'Leary, Bloomfield, Flmsdale, all com- paratively uninteresting little settlements, and run into Alberton, 55 miles from Summerside. This is a prosperous ship-building and fish mg village on Cascumpeque Harbor, and has about 900 inhabitants It is interesting as the birthplace of the Gordons, the two mission^ ary martyrs of Eromanga. The chief inn of Alberton is the Albion House Leaving Alberton we pass the stations of Montrose, Kildare .jnd De Blois, and reach the northern terminus at Ti<;nish, 68 miles' from bummerside. This little village of Scotch and Acadian Cath- olics is an important fishing center. It has a village inn called Ryan s Hotel A drive 8 miles northward through the sand-hills brings us to the land's-end of the province, North Cape. From Summerside to Charlottetown, a distance of 49 miles we traverse a pretty pastoral country, whose endless succession of farms and farming hamleto wear an unvarying air of prosperity and com- fort. The journey stands out in one's memory chiefly on account of the curious little railway, with its gauge of only 3 ft. 6 inches, winding hither and thither as if to visit every farmer's door. It is said that a tourist was once startled by what appeared to be a train about to crash mto the rear car of that on which he was traveling. It turned out however, to be only the locomotive of his own train, which was round' mg a peculiarly exaggerated curve. Just beyond Summerside the island IS but a little over 3 miles wide, being almost severed here by Kichmond Bay on the one side and Bedeque Bay on the other Nine miles from Summerside is the station of Kensington, whence a road leads to Princctown, a village on the N. shore, which was laid out in squares as a town, and still awaits the population that never came ^ear by, on the safe harbor of Malpeque, is the village of the same i^T; *,,^'"^'f"* watering-place, with a comfortable inn called the Mrth Shore Hotel. Leaving Kensington we pass the stations of Blueshank and Freetown, and come to EmeralclJunction, whence a rail- road runs to Cape Traverse. The succeeding stations are of no inter, est till we come to Hunter River, a good trout-stream, whence a high-' way leads N. to the villages of New Glasgow and Rustico. The latter 18 a quiot and delightful summer resort, with a small but good summer hotel, the Rmtico Home, on the sands of Rustieo Beach. There are -ood bathing an<! boating iu the harbor, which is rendered unsafe, however I I 196 PRINCE EDWAKD ISLAND. for ships of any size, by its shifting sand-bars, thrown up by the gulf waves. There are also good shooting and fishing in the neighborhood. The village has but 250 inhabitants, yet it was once daring enough to own a bank — the Farmers' Bank of Rustico — whose charter has ex- pired. Along the shore to the eastward lie Shaw's Beach, with a good summer hotel (Shaw's), and Tracadie Harbor (Lome Hotel), which are favorite resorts for the citizens of Charlottctown. The villages of Tracadie and Covehcad are Gaelic settlements, and near by, on French Fort Creek, stood of old a French fortress, protecting the short portage of 1^ miles from the head of the Hillsborough River to Tracadie Harbor. From Hunter River Station we pass North Wiltshire, Colville, Mil- ton, Winsloe, and arrive at Royalty Junction, whence diverge the lines to Georgetown and Souris. Six miles more and we sweep around the city of Charlottctown, and enter the depot on the E., bet»vocn the city and the Hillsborough River. In the depot the train, on its narrow, shining rails, looks more than ever like a toy affair. Charlottctown. The chief hotels of Charlottctown are the Hotel Davies and the Queen. There is also the Osborne, a comfortable house, and numerous smaller hotels. Their coaches meet the trains and boats. There are no horse-cars, but the livery charges are moderate. The steamer St. Lawrence, of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Co., plies between Char- lottctown and Pictou. The steamer Carroll, of tlie P. E. I., Halifax, and Boston Line, leaves once a week for Boston. Fare, 17.50. The fortnightly boat cf the Quebec S. S. Co. calls here. The little steamer Heather Bell leaves Charlottctown for Orwell every Tuesday, Wednes- day, and Thursday. The Southport sails to West River on Tuesdays and Fridays, and to Rocki/ Point every day but Mondays and Thurs- days. The steam-ferry Eljfin plies between Charlottctown and South- pnrt every half-hour from 5 a. m. to 9 p. m. Charlottctown lies on the N. shore of the Hillsborough River. Its harbor is capacious and secure, and is formed by the meeting of the Hillsborough, York, and Elliott Rivers, more generally known as East, North, and West Rivers. The city is regularly laid out, its streets running E. and W., and intersected by streets running N. and S. There are 4 large squares, and the broad streets, 100 ft. in width, seem a shade too roomy for the 11,485 inhabitants. For the most part the buildings are of wood and entirely unimposing, but the Parliament Houses occupy a handsome stone structure on Queen Square, at the head of Great George St. The same building contains the good collection .. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAXD. 197 of the Legislative Library. From its cupola may be had an cxceedinirly attractive.and commanding view of the city and its surroundings. On the same square, which is adorned with a fountain and well kept flower-beds, and where the band plays to the moving crowd on summer evenings, stands the handsome new stone pile of the Post-Office. Near by is the great wooden structure of the City Market, which looks like a weather-beaten compromise between a barn and a country meeting- house. It is the thing for tourists to visit this building on markel days m the morning, when they will see some quaint Gaelic and Acadian types. Around this square chiefly congregate the shops of Charlotte- town. Not far down Great George St. rises the roomy Cathedral of St. Dunstan, the seat of the Roman Catholic bishop. On Hillsborough Square, farther to the W., is the large brick Convent of Notre Dame and near by are the Normal School and Pri7ice of Wales College In tlie same quarte. of the city is the parade-ground, between Sidney and Pownal Sts., presided over by the barracks and drill-shed Still far- ther W., on a projecting point of land, occupied also by the charminn- bit of woodland called the Park, the cricket and foot-ball field, and the delightful lawn-tennis grounds, stands the Government House, with a lovely outlook over the blue and quiet waters of the harbor. Here one realizes that contented note of the Charlottetown landscape which led the discoverers of the haven to call it "Port la Joie." There is capital lawn-tennis and foot-ball playing in Charlottetown, where was h(>ld the first tournament of the Maritime Provinces Lawn-Tennis Association. Whether the city be found a pleasant summer resort or not depends chiefly on the visitors themselves. Charlottetown society is found ex- ceedingly charming and hospitable by those who go there duly accred- ited. To the absolute stranger its attractions are not great, for there IS no very remarkable scenery, and, away from the chief square, the wide streets look all alike, and all equally uninteresting. One's im- pressions of the city may be marvelously changed by one or two letters of introduction. Outside of the city, and overlooking it, in a re-ion of pleasant villas, stand the Wesleyan College and the Roman C^atholic College of St. Dunstan. By ferry one may visit the pleasant village of Southport, on the opposite sh-e of the Hillsborough River in the neighborhood of which is the alleged height called Tea Hill,' with a sweet pastoral view from its low summit. The principal summer resort IS at Grand Traeadie Beach, ]3 miles distant, where the Hotel Acadie IS open during the season. 198 FROM CIIARLOTTETOWN EASTWARD. From Charlottetown eastward. From Royalty Junction, 5 miles out of Cliarlottctown, the traveler wlio wishes to do the island thoroughly may take the train eastward. Passing the little stations of Union, York, Suffolk, Hedford, and Tra- cadie, along the fertile valley of the Hillsborough River, we come to Mf. Stewart Junction, 22 miles from the city. At this point a branch diverges southeastward, 24 miles to Georgetown, on the east coast; while the Tuain line continues along the north shore to Souris, which is also en the east coast some 20 miles north of Georgetown. From Mt. Stewart Junction, a thriving village devoted to ship-building, we traverse a rather thinly-settled country, passing the stations of iisquid, Peak's, JJaldwin's, and Perth, till we come to the village of Cardigan, on the head of Cardigan Ray, whence the high-road leads to Vernon River and Pownal. It n<ay be said here, in parentheses, that the pleasantest way to get to Mt. Stewart Junction is by the little steamer Heather Bell from Charlottetown. Cardigan :■ 18 miles from the junction; and miles farthei-, running down the long promontory between Cardigan Rav and Georgetown Harbor, we come to Georgetown, a prosperous village of 1,118 inhabitants, with a large shipping trade in agricultural produce. The harbor is the best winter port on the island, and least liable to ob- struction by the ice. Steamers from Pictou for the Magdalen Islands call here on their way. The town is well laid out, and is the county seat of King's County, the most easterly of the three counties into which this little province is divided. At the head of the harbor flows in the Brudenelle River. The chief inn of Georgetown is the Com. wercial Hotel. The more northern line to Souris reaches Morell Station 8 miles east of Mt. Stewart. This is a fishing village on the little Morell River. Thence the railway skirts St. Peter's Bay for 7^ miles to the village of St. Peter's, the chief fishing town on the north shore. The bay is famous for its valuable salmon-fisheries, and has been already referred to as the best place on the island for sea-trout. Tourists in search of this sport may stay at the little inn called the Prairie Hotel, or they may obtain board at private houses. The bay is a fine sheet of water, more than 7 miles in length, but its usefulness as a haibor is somewliat impaired by the fact that there is less than 6 ft. of water on the bar that crosses its mouth. Leaving St. Peter's we pass the stations of Ashton, Selkirk, Bear River, Nev^ Zealand, and Ilarmonv, whence roads • » „ V o 5" „ mkmm FROM OITAUI.OrrETOWN EASTWAUD. 199 load inland Houthwontward to the (Jaclic HcttloinentH of Annandale, DoughiH, and Hridgi'town, on (J rand lUvcr, where one may study Homo quaint old eiiHtoniH and a life tliat pntHcrvew itH individuality with great porHirttenco. Sonris itself, H miles Ix'yond Harmony, is a (iaelic village of 7<M) inliabitantH, dc^votwl to fishing and nhip-building. Its harbor, Oolville Buy, is protected by a breakwater. The village earricH on nn oxtenHlvo trade with the French island of St. Pierre, off the cuast of Newfouudlimd. Not far from Houris lie the shallow coast pools of East and North Lakes ; and beyond, the island runs off to a beacon- guarded termination at East Point. At Houris or (Jeorgetown one may take the steamer St. Ola/ (or the Magdalen IisIandH, if the attractions of ren '»teness and sea-trout fishing prevail. The St. Ohif leaves I'U'ton, N. S., every Monday on the arrival of the IliiliCax express, and calls at (Jeorgetown and Souris. Th(^ fare from (i(!()rget')wn is !j^4. The Magdalen Islands are a group of thirte(^n, most of them connected by sand-sjjits bare at low tide. They lie in the (Jiulf of Si, Lawrence, between Prince Edward Island and the west coast of Newfoundland, about 50 miles from East Point, already mentioned. The chief island is called Amhcmt, and this island, with Alright, (Jrindatone, and Entry Islands, partially incloses a roadstead in which the fleets of the gulf, caught in this neighborhood in a gale, take refuge. The if^hinds, however, have no harbors pro[)er that are safely accessible in a storm, and they are a good place to keep away from in bad weather. Their shores arc lined with wrecks. In the dreadful " Lord's Day Gale," celeb'ated in Stednuin's noble ballad, the loss of life about the Magdalens was appalling. Out to sea, off the west of Amherst, lies the dread rock of Deadman's Isle, mentioned in Tom Moore's lines : " To Deadman's Isle in the eye of the blast, To Deadman's Isle she speeds her fast ; Hy skeleton shapes her sails are furled, And the hand that steers is not of this world." Off to the north lie the most outlying members of the group, Bryon Island, rivaling Perce Rock as a nesting-place for sea-birds, and the two desolate Bird Rocks. On one of these, which carries a powerful light, placed there with great expense and peril by the Canadian Gov- ernment, a landing is effected only by means of a great swinging crane projecting from the cliff, on which visitors are hoisted in a cradle. One of the most important and central islands of the group is called Coffin 200 FKoT^r oiiARr.orrF/rovvN maniwak]). IhIiuuI— not fiom its Hlm|M' or any HinintiT asMooiatlon, l)iit in lioiior of Adnil.al Sir iHaac CoHin, to whom, in I7»«, tho islands w<mo granted in fo(« siniplo, and wimse ln'ir, Vilniiral (JolHn, now »i;)lds tljoni. Tho population of (lie island^ -. i.„sv a liftlc ovi-r .S,0()(., mostly Anidian Frt'iifh, and all arc t^^,ull^. ..1" Aianiral Collin, who cxucts the heavy roni of one shilling p.M' acre, payahic at the convenience of tlie occupant. The islands lie within the province of Quebec. A perfect view of thoni may he had from tlie summit of Entry Island, f)H(> ft. above the sea. The Mai'dalens are visited by few tourist-, md those few have to put up with .somewhat primitive tliou^h always hospitable entertain- ment. Among tlie islands one may enjoy the finest of sea-trout fish- ing; and in the small lirooUs, which constitute tlio islanders' river.s, (me n>ay catch nuignilicent trout, that look strangely out of proportion to the waters thoy fn-cpient. During the cod and mackerel seasons the island waters are throng(>d with American and Canadian fishing-fleets, and patrolled l»y tht> Domiiucm cutter La Canadienne to prevent foreign boats from fishing within the three-mile limits. In winter the occupa- tion of the inhabitants is seal-fishing, a perilous business, in which som(> lives are lost every season. The seals arc swept upon the shoies on fields of ice drifting down from tho N. ; and sometimes the ice- fields drift away again, when tlit> wind changes, carrying with them some of the too-venturous hunters. The Magdalens have, pei-haps, tho best lobster-grounds on the con- tinent, and the canning establishments there do an innnen.se business. The chief villag,' is on Jm/iirttf Island, fronting on IMeasimt Ihiy, and contains the unimposing public buildings. Overlooking the settlement is a conical height called " La Demoiselle," from whose peak (me sees a broad and varied panorama. The prondnent landmarks of the group, besides this hill and tlie islands already described, arc the striking enn- ntnwos of Cap (/(.]/(nil<\ /^' 17,»x, and /a I'icilic. The sand-bi>aclics 0(mnecting the islands are at times very dangerous from shifting (piick- sands. In places the sand is covered with water to a depth of several feet, and the fordable spots are marked out bv scant rows of saplin-'S stuck insecurely into the bottom. The communication between the islands by these beaches is perilovis and often impossible when the wind is strong. The group is connected with the outer world by a sub- marine cable running to Trince Edward Island ; but this institution does not s(>em to meet with much patronage, and Mr. S. G. W. Henja- ndn, in an entertaining paper on the Magdnlens, in the Century Maga- r NOVA sc<mA. 201 * «' 'I zinc for Mn.v, l«8^, UAU that at tli.' time of his visit tho operator wuh uway t>nj(.yinfr an cxtciKlcd vanitioii on tlic mainland whih' tlu> nililc rested unused. (Mr. nc-njan.iu's Ixx.k, " The ("niise of the Aliee May," whieii deseiibcs u voyage around the eoast of tiie Maritime Provinces nn<l tho outlyiuf,' i.slands, is publJHli.-d hy I). Appk'ton k c,,.) ()„ ^]^^^ Mi.^'dalens is situated a large nunnery, wiiose occupants (hHd)tless find there the ideal of cloistral seclusion. NOVA SCOTIA. The pi ivincc of Nova Scotia consists of the storied peninsula of OU Amdif and the hhitid of Cnpr Jirdou. It is the most easterly province of tho Dondnion, and is connected witli New IJriuiswiek by the Isf/imm <>/ (Imjnvcio, alieady described. Its length is «()() iniles, its extreme breadth lot), and its coast-line is deeply indented by bays and roomy harbors. Its rivers, of which the more important are the Liver pool, La Have, Shuhniacudir, Avo7>, and Anitapo/in, are not of great length, but are important on account of their large estuaries. The sjnfttce of the province is diversified by long, parallel ranges of hills and valleys running E. and W. No other part of Canada can surpass this province in the variety and abundance of its natural re- sources. In regard to soil and climate its agricultural districts are not excelled by the most favored i)ortions of Ontario. It has innnense lumbering, fishing, and ship-building interests. Its coal, gold, iron, and plaster minea are famous the world over. Other ndncral products of Nova Scotia are silver, tin, zinc, copp(>r, manganese, plumbago, granite, marble, limestone, grindstones; anu the province also pro- duces good specimens of garnet, amethyst, opaz, opal, cairngorm, agate, heliotrope, jasper, and chalcedony. Tlie forests are still fairly stocked with large and small game; and the province contains many excellent < out and salmon waters, though in this respect it hardlv competes ith New Hrunswick. The population of Nova Scotia in 1891 was 450,996. In historic associations Nova Scotia is not less richly furnisli<'d than Quebec. It wa.-» visited by tlie Norsemen in the eleventh century, and rediscovered by Sebastian Cabot in 1498. Attempts were made tocolmiize the country I »y France in 1518; and by Portugal between 1520 and 1530, when a royal commission was given to -Joan Alvarez 202 NOVA HdOTIA. I'' I F«KU«.l..z, Hn,| t«u .ships snih.l r„ ('up.. Mivton with (■..l„nist.s Tlie eurlu-Ht nppn.xi.i.ah.ly n.rnrt map „f N„va Sootia is that ..f u I'ortu. ftr>N. Th»« rditiigiiorto wore gUi'Hf, |)i(.j,'„ ll<.iiiiiii, and lu-ais date <>f j not vi'iy Hiu'i-fHsfuI ill thulr ('oh)ii roUiiii/.iiij; t'fl'oiiM, hut thi'V did i/.in- with nittlo and swin,. the .hvadlnl Hai.d"-ha.,k Ishiiid, t»ir tiic S. I coast of Nova Scdf Miiccccd III of Sable yours iiiaii.v a shipwivi-kctl h( ill— -a dt'cd for which in hitt an with f,'iatitndc. In suci mil has had cansc to icinoinhor th 1 names as Mlomidon, Mi icni <"'•'" ''" ••^' "'"• ""'"'^ •>"• l"<"t"gu,.sc have left on these coasts the nu.moiy of their explorations. The name of Acadio itself is a J .cnn.c word, n.eaninj,- "a region of plenty "_a„.| is the same as the Mehc... word " (iu.Mldy." Shnhenacadie means "a place of plenty of gnmnd-nnts," jnst as I'assama.inoddy means a phice of plenty of hid- «l<H-k. The indi.ence of the French soon became .lonnnant i„ thes,. .VKions ami they ad,.pte.l the. Micn.ac na.ne, which was an^lieize,! by t .c Knj,!,.h clainnmts into Acadia. The first snceessfnl settlement in An.d.e «as that planted in l.l..r. „t IN.rt Royal, by Champlain, after h.s winter „f horn.rs at the St. ('roix month, rnicp.o an.l interesting though a most disastrous faih.re, was the coi.mizimr enterprise of Mar q.us de la IJoehe in l.M.S. Of this atten.pt the theatre was Sable Isla.H , which, as it is more interesting to read about than to visit nuiy be releiml to here. As its luim.. i.nplies, this island is a bank of sand, a deposit of the drift of meeting currents. It lies yo miles S E of Noya Seotia, and is the center of fogs and tiercest storn.s Its s lape is roughly that of a crescent, -> miles long by 2 wide, and a shallow po.,1 diyides it from eiul to end. Its posith.n 'is shifting grad- "ally eastward, an.l the dreadful wrecks of which it is from tinu. to t.me the scene lune won it the nam,, of the " Charnel-hou.se of North An.orica/' De la IJoehe. being made Viceroy of Canada and Aeadie, set sail for his new d..minions with a ship-load of conyicts for colonists Ai.proaclung the Acadian coasts ho conceiyed. in his prudenee tl.J design ol landing his dangerous charge upon the Isle of Sable, till he might go and pivpare for them, on the mainland, a place of safety. The 4. conyicts, selected from the chief prisons of France, were landJd through the uproar of the surf, and the ship made haste away from the IH'nlous shore. Hut she came not back again ! De la Roche reached Acadie, chose a ite for his settlement, and set out for the island to fetch lus expectant colonists, lint a great gale swept him back to 1- ranee and droye him upon the Hreton coast, where the Duke de Mer 4 I s o NOVA SCOTIA. 203 coeur, at that time warring against the king, seized him, cast him into prison, and held him close for five years. Meanwhile those left on the island were delighted enough. They were free, and began to forget the scourge and chain. Besid<i. the unstable hummocks and hills of sand they found a shallow lake of sweet waters, the shores of which were clothed luxuriantly with long grass, and fcntils, and vines of vetch Lurking in any or every portion of the grass-plain ;vere little cup-like hollows, generally filled with clear water. Every su^h pool like the lake, was alive wHh ducks and other water-fowl, among which the joyous ex-convicts created consternation. There were wild ca^le also, trooping and lowing among the sand-hills or feeding bellv-deep in the rank water-grasses; while herds of wild hogs, introduced years be- fore by the Portuguese, disputed the shallow pools with the mallard and teal. The weather for a while kept fine, and the wind, comparn- tively temperate, and the sojourners held a carnival of liberty and in dolenee. But this was not for long, and as the skie. grew harsher theu- plight grew harder. As the weeks slipped into months thov gmw first impatient, then solicitous, then despairing. Their provisions fell low, and at last the truth was staring them in the face-they were de serted. From the wrecks -pon the shore they built themselves at first a rude shelter, which the increasing cold and .storms soon drove them to perfect with their most cunning skill. As their stores diminished they looked on greedily and glared at each other with jealous eyes' boon quarrel., broke out with but little provocation, and were settled by the knife with such fatal frequency that the members of the colonv shrank apace. As they had been provided with no means of lio-htin"- fires, they soon had to live on the raw flesh of the wild cattle, and little by ittle they learned the lesson, and began to relish such fare. Little by little too, as their garments fell to pieces, they replaced them with skins of the seals that swarmed about the beach; and their hut they lined with hides from the cattle they had slaughtered. As the months became years their deadly contests cea.sed, but exposure, and fro.«t and hunger, and disease kept thinning their ranks. They occupied them- selves in pursuing the seal for its skin, the walru. for its ivory. Thev' had gathered a great .store of sealskins, ivory, and hides, but now only twelve men remained to possess these riches. Their beards had cnown to their waists, their skins were like the furs that covered them'their nails were like birds' claws, their eyes gleamed with a sort of si y ferocity through the long, matted tangle of their hair. At last, from "1 204 NuVA SCOTIA. 7 e,.ea.od U,e o,*. „r •• K.:,Us tC of N v'aC".'::;:": In 16<t2 Nova Scotia was relinquished to France ami fn'i , he str,,«g,e, ,c.„en t„ Tonr and Charnisay, airrdr^ef red 7 ! stronghold i„ 7 3 d ;„T: : """1'*'" °^™" '"^ '*-*«° Hiof and h, the Tre ^ 'r;: ?LTm i" ""' "''" "' ""' '" coded .0 England. These str,,.! es and intlrl """"■■'■ "" """" accompaniment of innnmerable r!L,n, ?r°"' "'"' "" "'"' ""^ make the annals of NoTZttaaLrec^n "" ""'""'°'' ""•'■»• In m. was fonnded t„: ^rf IX ""j,:;:-;';::!, f.'" "' »'"r '• between the Treaty of Utrecht ind tl„. i '^/""'' ""'"cning The tragedy of 1755 will be referred to mom fnii with the description of Grand Pre In HsHL ' ^^ •""'''"" province was increased by the in. igr Uon 00';^ 7/ *'^ Loyalists; and in the following year two 1 '^ ^'"P""^ out Of portions of Xo.a Sco:^ Cir _" ITZ: Te: 7"^ wick, p^-^anently, and the other Cape I reton as i n n ^ k porarily. During the War of 18^> V c ^ '''^' ^"* **^"'- depredations of .t^erioan It "^ is^?;!"''^'"^' ''^'^ ''' withQueboc, Ontario, and Xew Brunswi.l? t f *he provn.ce joined known as the Dounnion of Canada " ''" confederation To Pictou and Antigonish saii'nrs'rr rfr rs z "t - ^--t'^ ^'"•^■'■*'> -- sai,i„,n;.\f,:rrt;::ir:5:-rc:or TO PICTOU AND ANTIOONISII. 205 this noble water, whose high and varied shores, well populated in al- most every direction, give it the charm of pieturesqueness, and whose safe and commodious anchorage constitutes it the best haven on the north coast of Nova Scotia. The town of Pictou is handsomely situated on a hill-side overlooking the harbor. Its site was of old occupied by a town of the Micmacs, who called the place "Pik-took," from the gases escaping from the coal-beds underlying the harbor The neighborhood is rich in legends of GUiskap, the MIcmac demigod, who halted here on his journey to Newfoundland to punish the wizards of that island who had slain his servants. Here, too, took place some sanguinary battles between the Micmacs and the Mohawks, and to this day the name of the latter is a terror to the Indians of Pictou. The first settleiPdnt at this point was begun in 1767 by a small party of Philadelphians. It is said that Franklin was interested in the enter- prise ; which, however, made but sorry progress till the arrival of a body of Scotch Highlanders in 1773. The ultimate success of there immigrants attracted many more of the same race ; and these colonists, being intensely loyal, gradually crowded out the first settlers, whose' sympathies were with the Thirteen Colonies during the American War of Independence. The town was founded in 1788; and between 1805 and 1820, when the Baltic ports were closed against Great Britain, Pictou made great progress as a lumbering and ship-building port.' Thereafter the development of the coal industry, of which Pictou County is one of the chief centers on the continent, continued the era of prosperity. At present, though Pictou has considerable wealth, and some mills and factories to depend upon besides her shipping interests, the town is not making much progress, and stands at a population of between 3,000 and 4,000, much of her business being appropriated by her bustling young rival. New Glasgow. Pictou has some fine public buildings, piominent among which is that of the Pictou Academy, con- taining a fine library and museum. This institution has played a'most important part in the education of the province, and counts among its graduates some of the most distinguished of (Canadians— among them President Sir William Dawson, of McGill Universitv, and Principal Grant, of Queen's University. The Young Men's Christian Association Building attracts attention, and the spiritual needs of the towns-folk are supplied by a round half-dozen churches. Around the shore of the harbor, opposite Pictou, are the huge, black wharves of the various coal-mining companies. About the same point the harbor branches 200 TO T»I(TOU ANT) ANTIGONISH. into threo arn.H. the estuaries of Ku.t, West, ami Mid.lle Kivern Tl.o ...« . . .1 seu. ,ath„-.c, Iawu-tr„nis, so.ne pleasant society, and one eom- fortable hotel, the Narrr Home. tVom rietou the raihyay n.ns a.oun.l the north of the harbor 14 n los to Sm^ron where U connects with the Eastern Extension ,>f the n tercnh>n.a K. M. Steilarton is a thrivin, bu. „in,v town <.f ab ) .n abUants, and ha. ,rown up about the fan.ous^^l //.-.„ Coal «. J l>on Jw ... ^o one stops at Str'darton if he can help it; for 2 miles oas ward by rad ,s the energetic and growing town of ^^.^ oi„l^ v.th a population of between 4,000 and 5,000, and three fairly c.^nl Ncu .lasgov ,s a great sh.p-building and eoal-nuning center, and is -PHl y<hne,opi„, a large n,anufaeturing interest, n has ta . e and loundnes and has lately started, under n.osMavor.ble aus,,^^ extensive steel and glass works. (io<,d public buildings are rapi lly' g<nng u,v.nd everything points to a most prosperous future for Ihe t« «n. A coal radway runs down the south of the harbor to the coal wharves and ferry opposite Pietou. At the lower end of the towTa <la-bruige crosses the East River, here a narrow strean, which the -t-zens Of New Glasgow propose to n.ake the Clyde of (^u.ada. Cp •ts nortuern slu>ro runs for a short distance, to the Albion Mines a <,ua.nt raihvay, the oldest in America. The massive old rust..at;n .a. s are of a very curious pattern; but such is the excellence of their construction that thov still do their work ^tr^y r!r" ?'"f'" "' ''''^ '• ^ • '^•' •■""'""S ^« ^^"'"'-« on the Miait of anso,has been still farther extended to run through Cape Breton. Between New Glasgow, which we leave at about 11 o'elocl and 4./.^.«,s/,„ a distance of 42 miles, we get some occasioned bit^ o good scenery; but the nine intervening stations are of little inter- est. A prosperous ship-b.nlding village is Merigomish, 14 miles from Anotlei of these stations ,s son.ewhat interesting, on account of its quaint name of Marshy Hope. As we near Antigonish, descendi ' ^-ou,H the passes of the surrounding hills, the scene changTs! Ant.gon.sh ,s „ beautiful, clean, little pastoral town, se. in a broad g-en amphitheatre, whose meadow floor is watered by a pleasant nver. ts beauty of surroundings is of the restful, q.det kind but undeniably worthy of p.-aise. There are p..etty ddves among Z I I TO PICTOU AND ANTIGONISH. 207 hills, the summer climate is not to be 8urpix:;sed, and though there are no very exciting diversions, the town must be set down as a really delightful retreat for the summer traveler who desires nothing but unrestricted lotus-eating. The village inns are comfortable, home-like country boarding-houses, rather than hotels; and there is pleasant society to be met in this remote corner of the province, Antigouish is the >,liire town of Antlgonish County. It stands at the head of a wide, shallow harbor opening into St. George's Bay. It has.a population of a little less than 2,0(i(>, and carries on an extensive trade in agricultural produce with Newfoundland. It also ships quan- titles of gypsum. The country is settled by a thrifty farming popula- tion of Celtic liigidandcrs. Antlgonish is the seat of a Roman Catholic bishopric, of the fine new Catkalral of St. Ninian (a striking structure of blue limestone dressed with brick, consecrated in 18V4, and carrying on the fa9ade tlie inscription " Tiglie Dlie," which is Gaelic for " The House of God "). The sermons in the cathedral are frequently preached in Gaelic. Near the cathedi-al is the imposing pile of St. Franck A'avicr CoUcgc, a prosperous Itoman Catholic institution imder the presidency of Dr. McNeill. Close by is the building occupied by the (Jirls' School, which H managed by nuns of a Montreal Sisterhood. Quiet as the vil- lage is, it practically monopolizes the whole supply trade of the country, and hence supports some large shops which would do credit to [)laces with thrice the population. In the country about Antigonish, accessible by stage or carriage, the most interesting i)oints to visit are the Anti- gonish Mountains, thrusting their lofty line 15 miles out into the gulf; Cape St. George ; and the romantic village of Celtic Highlanders known as Ai-isaig, behind whose long wooden pier vessels seek shelter in some winds, there being no harbor on this coast between Antigonish and Merigomish. Leaving Antigonish we pass the stations of South River, Taylor's Road, Pomciuet, and come to the prosperous settlement of Heatherton, whence a stage line runs 20 miles to Guysboio. The third station be- yond Heatherton is yet another Tracadh^ a very interesting Acadian settlement 20 miles from Antigonish. Here is situated a monastery of Trappist monki>. ar «. iiiso a convent occupied by Sisters of Charity. The third station bf j-o»\ . Traeadie is Harbor au Bouche, another Acadian settlement, and 10 miles beyond, 80 miles from New Glasgow, the train stops at Mulgrave on the Strait of Canso. On the other side lies the wild and lovely land of Cape Breton. 208 TO PICTOU AND ANTIG0NI8H. Cape Breton. The island of Cape Breton forms a portion of the province of Nova Scotia. Its extreme length is about 100 miles, its width 85 miles, and its population between 80,000 and 90,000, It is marvelous for the diversity of its scenery, being a very chaos of u'ountuins, lakes, streams, and deep bays, and a sportsman'n paradise. The island is all but split in two from end to end by the strange lake-like inlet of the Brus (POr ; and the division is completed by a ship-canal half a mile long connecting the inner extremity of the Bras d'Or with St. Peter's Day on the W. coast. The two divisions of the island thus formed are ex- tremely dissimilar, the southern portion being low and much broken by the sea, and the northern portion vory mountainous and bold. The valleys and plains tue fertile, the coast waters rich in fish, the forests support a large ship-building industry, and, most important of all, the coal-mines are among tlic very best in the world. Besides its vast coal deposits. Cape Breton pio. luces marble, granite, limestone, slate, gypsum, iron, and salt, [ts position makes it the key to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, a consideration which led France to cling tenaciously to its possession when yielding up the Acadian Peninsula. Its delicious and invigorating summer climate, added to its other attractions, make it one of the pleasantest placer, in Canada for summer wanderings. The island takes its name from a cape on its east coast, which was called in honor of its Breton discoverers. It was renamed Isle Iioyale by the French in 1713, and on the cession of Nova Scotia to England its population was swelled by the influx of Acadians who refused to live under English rule. In 1714 was built the strong fortress of Lou- isbo\arg ; and for the next lifty years the story of the island is one of perpetual hostilities between the Eniilish on one hand and the French with their Indian allies on the other, culminating in the second and final capture of Louisbourg and the utter destruction of the fortress in July, 1758. In 1765 Cape Breton was annexed to Nova Scotia. It was made a separate province in 1784, but was reannexed in 1820, Its population is hnost entirely Celtic, being made up of Scotch High- landers and Acadian French. Cape Breton may be visited by boat up the Bras d'Or Lakes, by the new railway, or by boat from Halifax, Mulgrave, already re- ferred to, is a fishing village of about 500 inhabitants, in the moun- tainous, gold-producing county of Guysboro. It has a harbor open I »«' TO PICTOU AND ANTIQONISII. 209 the year round, and is connected with Port Hawkesbury by a steam- ferry. The latter is a growing viMage of perliaps 1,100 inhabitants, and good prospects for more. The steamships plying between Boston and Chnrlottetoivii call at Port Ilawkesbin-y. Through the Bras d'Or Waters to Sydney. From the noble passage called the gut or Strait of Canso we may go by boat or stage through Cape IJrcton. The new railway from Point Tupper, opposite Mulgrave, to Si/dnci/ and Louisbourg has just been opened. It has a length of 90 miles, through much noble scenery, and over one trestle, that crossing McDonald's (Julch, which has the distinction of being the S( cond longest in t'anada. But the traveler, if traveling for pleasure, will probably prefer the absolutely unique sea-voyage through the windless waters of the Bras d'Or. The daily steamers from Port Mulgrave touch at Grandigue, where passengers for Arichat disembark; also at St. Peter's, Grand Narroms, and Baddeck. The fare to Baddeck is |2 ; return, |3.50. The fare to Sydney is $3 ; return, $5. From Mulgrave the course is eastward through the Strait to Isle Madame, an island some 16 miles long by 5 miles in width, peopled by Acadians. The steamer traverses the picturesque strait called Lennox Passage, which separates Isle Madame from the main island. Arichat, the chief village on Isle Madame, lies on the seaward side, and is an important fishing station, with a popu- lation of between 1,100 and 1,200. The town is the county-seat of Richmond County, and does a large business for a place of its size. It is also to some extent an educationivl center, having successful academies for boys and girls. There are other busy little villages on Isle Madame. Leaving Lennox Passage .ve run Up St. Peter's Bay, whose head is separated from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d' Or waters, by a narrow isthmus with the once appropriate name of " The Haulover:' Through this isthmus has lately been cut a canal of about half a mile in length, which has made the Bras d'Or route by far the most desirable for Cape Breton travelers. The village of St. Peter's, with its population of about 1,100, mostly Scotch, was founded as long ago as 1630 by the illustrious Frenchman M. Denys, Throughout all its early history it was a place of importance, and well fortified. Through the eighteenth century it went by the name of Port Toulouse, and was a center of the 14 I i i ii i i i Wi «MIWHlMM 210 TIIROUOTI THE BRAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY. fur-trade. Off the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet is a group of islands oc cupied by the Micmac Indians. On the lar<j;e8t of these islands is held a grand Indian festival every St. Anne's Day, at which many curious ceremonies are observed. The celebrations are well worth a visit. Leaving St. Peter's Inlet we arc on the Great Bras d'Or Lake, which Mr. Warner calls "the most beautiful salt-water lake I have ever seen, and more beautiful than we had imagined a salt-water lake could be." Its shores are bold enough to be striking, rounded enough to be winsvmie, and diversified by every form of headland, estuary, glade, and forest. The woods are of an infinite variety, making a de- licious harmony of colors. The coast-line is of marvelous extent, so many and so deep are the branches of the lake, diverging in every direction between the ranges of the hills. Among the chief of these estuaries and inlets are River J)cm/.s, East Bay or Si. Andrew's Chan- nel, and West Bay or St. George's Channel. Near the head of East Bay is the picturesque Indian village of Escasoni, and everywhere lie snugly nestling hamlets of Scotch Highlanders. From the Great Bras iVOr the steamer enters a beautiful channel, 2 miles long by about a mile in width, called the Strait of Barra or the Grand Narrows, and calls at a settlement of the latter name. The dis- trict is peopled by immigrants from Barra in the Hebrides. Passing through the strait we enter the Little Bras d' Or TMke, whose charm of landscape and climate compels the acknowledgment of the most dis- contented of globe-trotters. Around the lake crowd innumerable shel- tering hills, most of them named with a fine freshness and disregard of the exigencies of pronimciation. To the westward of the lake, for instance, lie the heights of Watchahala-hkt ! The next stoppage is at the village on which Mr. Warner has conferred a certain kind of im- mortality. Every traveler who goes to Cape Breton, it is to be pre- sumed, carries a copy of " Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing," which, if not always quite just in the impressions it conveys, is always good company. Baddeck. Baddeck is growing year by year more popular, more sophis- ticated, more expensive, and better equipped in the matter of hotel and boarding house accommodations. It lies 40 miles from Syd- ney, and has a population, including the farm-houses that gather about it, of some 1,900 souls. The original spelling of the name was Bedeque. The village is of some importance, both as a shipping port EY. islands oc- nds is held my curious a visit. Or Lake, iike I have water lake ied enough id, estuary, kin;? a dc- extent, so ig in every L-f of these i'<?.v;'s Chan- iad of East rywbere lie 'ul channel, Jarra or the i. The dis- s. Passing se charm of e most dis- enable shel- d disregard he lake, for ppage is at kind of im- to be pre- ,ng," which, ilways good lore sophis- ter of hotel from Syd- that gather le name was lipping port THBOUGIT TUE BKAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY. 211 aud as the shire town <>f Victoria County. It ih a thoroughly dolipht- ful watering-place, a very idyll of peace and heaufy and -parkliuf: at- mosphere, removed from aW the bustle of modern affairs, yet within eai^y reach of the pleasant society of Sydnty. In the neighborhood is Middle liivcr, its vaH pt-opN'd with Gaclic-speakiiig Ilit^hlundcrs, and its innumerable tumbling tributaries fuirly alive with trout. T\w curly summer is best for the trout-fishing, when the sea-trout arc running in and stocl{J"'r brooks that seem by far too small for them. A drive of about 30 iiiiles by a lovely road will take one to the renowned fishing- waters of the Mmyarcc Jiivrr, where the trout and salmon swarm. There is good fishing also some distance up the Bifl Buddcck River, which Hows through some of the richest hunting-grounds of Cape Breton. A point of some interest to the tourist not idready satiated with Indians is the AL,,uic Villaye near Baddeck. These red men are in some respects fairly advanced in civilization, and their language, which has been minutely studied and systematized by the life-long labors of the late Dr. Silas T. Ran<l, author of a Micmac Dictionary, has a rich vocabulary and no lack of flexibility and force. No one who reads the Micmac legends guilnied by Mr. Leland will doubt the imaginative vigor of the tribe. The chief hotels of Baddeck are the Telegraph House and Bras d'Or Hotel Gold is found in the neighbor- hood of Baddeck. A magnificent drive is from Baddeck to Whycoeo- maffh, on a branch of the Bras d'Or, through the noblest of scenery all the way. A divergence of 4 or 6 miles from the main road takes one to the great water of Lake Ainslie^ the source of the Margarec. In this region are deposits of petroleum, mari>le, and iron, and there is an interesting cave near the village. Whycocomagh may also be reached by steamer through the splendid strait of St. Patrick's Channel. The pop- ulation of the district, of which the village is the center, is about 2,500. Eighteen miles beyond Whycocomagh is Mahon, on the gulf coast, an important seaport, with rich coal-fields in the vicinity. Ten miles southwest of Mabou is Port Hood, with 1,3('0 inhabitants, the busiest port on the northwest coast of the island. From Baddeck to the mouth of Si/dnei/ Harbor the route varies. Sometimes the boats, or at least the smaller boats, take the channel called the Little Bras d' Or , but ordinarily that of the Great Bras d'Or. These channels lead to the open Atlantic, about 8 miles from Sydney Harbor. They are divided by Bonlarderie Island, which is about 35 miles in length by 8 miles in sxtreme width, and owes its existence as an ^ ■.%, ^»«>, %> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I «- lilM ||M 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" _ ► Vi ^ //, m /^/ 4}? ^M e. %V' M DVio+noTxiriViii 1 iiUU Dgrapmc Sciences CorporatioR 4: ^^^ V « ;\ \ ^9) <^ V V 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 V .<^ ^c fz ^^ 212 THROUGH THE BRAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY. island to these strange and beautiful channels. The Little Bms d'Or IS a deep and tide-swept passage, m narrow and intricate as to be itn- passable for craft of any size. In a samll steamer the journey is very romantic and impressive, and one feels hin.self, at times, imprisoned hopelessly m the rocky clefts. The Great Bras d'Or, forming, the northwest boundary of Boularderie, is a noble passage, ranging in width fron. 1 to 3 miles, and extending about 30 miles. It has cTreat depth, and the scenery of its shores, overpeered by the Mo^^ntain. oj St. Anne, ,s bold and impressive. From this channel the steamer sails out between the surf-beaten headland of Cape Davphin and the promontory of Point Aconi, with its coal-fields. From Point Aconi the course is S. E. for 9 miles to Cmnlen'i^ Head, rounding which we find ourselves in Stjdnci/ Harbor. Running up the harbor we see iu the distance the works of the Sydney Mines-indeed, the whole neighborhood is studd.ed with coal-mmes and at any time we mav be passing over the deep sub- marine galleries in which the picks of the miners are at work with the sea-waves rolling fathoms deep between them and the upper air The coal of this district is among the best the world produces; and amon- the many mines engaged in bringing it to light are, besides the Sydney mines already named, the Victoria, the Lingan, the International, th'e Gowrte and the Link Glace £a.f. These are all easily accessible by stage from the town of Sydney, and some of them have rail communica- tion, for freighting purposes, which will furnish an informal means of transit. Sydney. Sydney, which held the proud position of provincial capital when Cape Lreton was a province, boasts one of the best harbors on all this well-havened coast. Her population by the last census (1881) was 3,667 ; and her trade, not only in coal, but in general produce as well .8 of great and growing volume. The one flaw in Sydney's harbor is the fact that it is ice-bound for the greater part of the winter In summer, however, it is full of life and activity; and being the head- quarters of the French squadron in the North Atlantic, it becomes the scene of a delightful social activity. The harbor is divided by a penin sula into two arms, and on the southwesterly arm is Sydney At the extremity of the peninsula are the ruins of the fortifications and bar- racks, occupied by a British garrison up to the time of the Crimean War. The harbor was originally called Spaniards' Bay, having been tw -^m J» THROUGH THE BKA8 d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY. 2 1 3 usLTtT' !Z *'' ^'^'""' fi«'"ng-floets; and afterward it .as used by the English as a center from which to carry on the struggle for he .s land. Now that England has made good and enduring her tuumph, France retams but a pier and flag-staff at the town of S- dnev representing her coaling privileges. The presence of the French sh'ps and the Prench officers, with their continual and graceful hospitalities, s regarded now w.th anything but hostility by the citizens of Sydney In the matter of hotels Sydney is rather comfortable than modern! But a summer hotel has been erected. The chief are McKen.ie\ the Ameruan Central, Hearr^s, and Mrs. King^s, It is generally easv to get board m semi-private houses, at from $4 to $6 per week of Srii'V''"' ^\^"'^' '"' '''''''^ ^y ^ steam-ferry, i's the town notn fT^ """"'" '*"' ^"* "^'"'^ ^''' ^harm than its rival, and is not hkely to attract the tourist to any prolonged sojourn. It is per- Inevrh T '"' ""^'^"^"' '^ ^ ^'^"^ P'-'^ *« -^^«'he - money that may be more agreeably spent elsewhere-at Svdney for instance. Its population is from 5,000 to 6,000, and it has several tanneries, a boot and shoe factory, and extensive ship-yards. The chief hotels are the Presto Hou.e, VmMme, and Belmont Hotel. The harbor of Sydney, though utterly overshadowed, historically, by Louisbourg, ha. seen some stirring episodes. Here gathered the remnants of Admiral Sir Ilovcnden Walker's fleet afterlts wreck off he St Lawrence mouth in 17ll-a powerful remnant, indeed, seein.^ hat It consisted of 42 ships of war. In 1781 took place, off the har! bor, a gallant battle between two 44-gun French frigates and four light- armed British vessels, which were convoying a fleet of coal-ships. The icsu It was a somewhat unfruitful victory for the French, as the defeated tlf of T-!h ."*'*'" ''''P' ""'^'' ''''' '' °'g^*' -ith the excep- lon of a httle ship ot 6 guns which remained in the victors' hands. In 1785 the site of Sydney was occupied by a party of United Empire New Yoii" ''''' "^ ^'''^"" ''"^'^•"' '^-'^'y'' «^ ^^"^'-y^ Louisbourg. Twenty-four miles from Sydney, by rail, lies the storied site of Louisbourg, now but a little fishing village, whose inhabitants follow Ibout'l 000 "t; ""T' ""'"'^ '' Newfoundland. Its population is rmns of the walled city which it was once the fashion to call the " Dun. mmmm 214 THROUGH THE BRAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY. W/ kirk of America." It is used in summer as a coaling-station. The harbor is spacious, perfectly sheltered, and with a good depth of water everywhere ; but its supremacy has fled to Sydney, and is not likely to return, unless a certain " ocean-ferry " scheme, one of several such, should some day come into effect. This rather hypothetical proposi- tion contemplates a fast train-service between Louisbourg and such centers as Montreal, Boston, and New York, connecting with swift ocean-steamers for the transatlantic voyage. It would greatly shorten the trials of those wliose dreaded enemy is the mai-dc-mer. The special interest of Louisbourg lies in its history, which has been so inimitably told by Parkman that every tourist visiting the spot should take with hiir. the volumes entitled *' Montcalm and Wolfe." The scenery at Louisboiu-g is not bold or striking. The hills surround- ing the harbor are rather low, and without impressive features ; but the land lies in a shape very favorable to defensive fortification. The harbor entrance is narrowed by islands and reefs to a width of about half a mile, and was protected by mighty batteries; behind which, at the southwest point of the harbor, rose the city walls. The opposite side of the harbor-mouth is a promontory called Lighthouse Point, which proved itself the key to the situation, and dominated the main defense, that known as the hiand Battery. Louisbourg arose after the Treaty of Utrecht, and in its building no treasure was spared. The best engineering skill of the time was expended upon it, and when com- pleted the French engineers made the boast that it could be effectively defended by a garrison of women. The landward side was not de- fended with the same degree of care, as only a sea attack was consid- ered practicable. The wild surf of Gabarus Bay, and the bogs inter- vening between that water and the city, were regarded as a sufficient defense against the approach of heavy artillery, and against light guns the walls were adequate. As soon as war was declared between France and England, in 1744, Massachusetts turned her attention to Louisbourg, as a deadly menace to her safety. In 1*745 she decided to undertake its capture. The ex- pedition she sent out was commanded by Colonel William Pepperell, who was supported by Commodore Warren and the West India squad- ron of the British fleet. The New England forces, raw troops, com- manded by untrained officers, astonished the world by capturing the supposed impregnable fortress. Though the British fleet lent valuable aid and support, the main credit for the splendid achievement is indis- i^« taw i|i» w/ THROUGH THE BRAS d'oR WATERS TO SYDNEY. 215 v^« u« i^ putably due to the New England militia and to their sagacious and calla- ble commander. When Pepperell found himself within the walls, and saw the tremendous casemates and bastions and bomb-proofs which his guns had shattered, and realized from the shot-torn walla of the citadel, the convent, the hospital, and the stately cathedral, the wealth and importance of the situation, he was overwhelmed with a sense ot the magnitude of his accomplished task. This feat of the New-Eng- landers settled the contest in Europe. With the Peace of 1749 Louis- bourg was restored to France in return for concessions nearer home ; and all that seemed to remain to New England for her enterprise was the title conferred on Pepperell. But in truth the country had mani- fested her power, not only to herself but to the world. In 1755, when war again broke out between France and England, the English attempted to surprise Louisbourg ; but France had not for- gotten her lesson, and was found alert. In the spring of 1758 England gathered her forces for an eflFort that should be tinal ; and early in June Wolfe appeared before Louisbourg, support by a vast fleet. This trained commander followed almost minutely in the '" jotsteps of Pep- perell, rightly appreciating the old New-Englander's insight. Louis- bourg had been immensely strengthened for just such an emergency, but the result was the same as before, and upon the destruction of the har- bor defenses, and of almost all the JP'rench fleet at refuge in the harbor, the city surrendered, giving up a force of nearly 6,000 men and 230 guns. After the capture, England spent months in the efl'ort to thoroughly erase the fortifications. Of the proud city itself there is left not one stone upon another, but the mighty lines of the earthworks yet remiin, with the grand slope of the glacis, and the enduring arches of the case- mates and magazines. The scene recalls with an almost poignant ap- propriateness the lines of Browning : Where the quiet colored end of evening smiles, Miles and miles, On the solitary pastures where our sheep, Half asleep, Tinkle homeward through the twilight, stray or stop, As they crop, Was the site once of a city great and gay, So they say, Of our country's very capital ; its prince Ages since, Held his court in, gathered councils, wielding far Peace or war. 236 TIIROPOH TKK BBA8 d'oB WATERS TO BYmEY. the last rcstin-plaoe of th- h. v" „ ''''"'' B«""y, ia whose voice .1 :;Z^„, J :;';:f;:,'«"'"8."' «- -ter s„r,, memorial. °"°™'' """" »'"■ "<> more delinlto New Glasgow to Truro and Halifex Truro, a distance of 43 Ti c sf or tL n ? " l'" '"'"«°" "> a..intere»ti„.. couwv tho^r'T ., """■' ""-"'fc'h « rather Shubenaeadic 2" if/ °. '■°'"' ■""'""' *' ""'^ »' "■" -e„er,. Six „i,e, Wyond StlrtlTthe oM XL":;';? "" :,' w.th Its quaint, old-fashioned inn of Hopewell Ho^T ? ' and a prosperous woolen min v "°P™'" ^olel, a spool.factory, oiengafr,, i^ei:ttZui::Ttit:i!:'''''j'^ "'''"-' •- Joch and New lairir Th™ „ , . * *«>«me""8 of Gair. (2. miles), RivtSc amon, T wl ao™"-!" , TJ'^^^' ''=^' ^'"" Va... (3S „iles,. and . ^.n^ Z^VZ^^^i^^oZ S' u^ luiies rrom Halifax, 65 mi es from Picton nnH "« -i from Amherst. It stanrto «» ft,^ «• .-, „ ^iciou, and ,6 miles River, at the hea „, Co e^dd filTwh "™' '"'"'' "' '"^ «""">" Trur„.s„.nufao,„resiS„de elthlts lethe"" 7'"°' "''"" '''"'°- machine,-,, iron caslinn.,!! ? ' **"'' "'°"'™''' ''""'^ '"'' shoos, hotels are .roIdS 7^. / '°^ t'/"" °*" ''™'- '"■'^ "- Of the town, ,ndifr:;f„;^:f:: ::;^^.f "\-'-' ''.-are But there are n,an.v „„re hotels in 4e "„ T™ •' ^I "' '''"'°"- well-conducted educational institution T r. '" ""' "'" "' ' which occupies a hanZl b i H ' k° '"■' ^'""^^ '^'^'' The town is leve^nt ,1^ „ " t "' l\ ""■'''" «™'""'' """" '«' well Shaded, and colinin si '«^° jL'iS™?:' l'""'. "^'^ "" ".e..o„ndint:vr:'-r'trsirfT^^^^^^^^^^ 1 lir i ^h 1 r .'•'»< Lou,s,ounj M.,norua. erect.l ly tUe Society of Colonial nar. This luoiiuinent will supply the lack of a the author. suitable memorial, noted by ^ NEW GLASGOW TO TRUKO AND HALIFAX. 217 wooded ravine traversed by a small stream, which at one point falls in a lovely cascade into a fairy-like chasm. The steep wall of this chasm 18 Imed with winding steps, and nooks containing seats, and lighted by electric lamps swung in the foliage. When these unique grounds are illummated, the effect is enchanting. Truro was originally occupied by the Acadiana, and, alter their ex- pulsion, by immigrants from New Hampshire and disbanded Irish sol- diers. The Shubenacadie River, running past the back of the town is one of the longest in Nova Scotia, and in the lower portion of its course IS a tidal stream, with important ship-yards about its n)outh. The tide at this point is tremendous. Along the course of the Shubenacadie and connecting with the Dartmouth Lakes lies the disused Shubena- cadie Canal, which was built at an enormous cost but turned out a failure. From Truro a stage line runs down the north shorrj of Cobe- quid Bay a distance of between 40 and 50 miles, through the settle- ments of Masstown (where stood the largest chapel of the ancient Acadians, and where now the old poplars and apple-trees remind us of the former inhabitants), Folly Village, Great Village, Highland Vil- lage, Port au Pique, Bass River, and Upper Economy, to Five Islands where stand, off shore, those five great rocks which, say the Indians' were thrown there by GluskAp in his contest with the Great Beaver ' Till we approach Halifax the journey from Truro yields little in the way of striking scenery. The station next to Truro is Brookfield (8 miles); then the pretty pastoral village of Stewi<^cke (IV miles) and the river of the same name. From the busy little village of Shubena- cadie (22 miles) stages run down the river 18 miles to the rich ship, bmlding village of Maitland, which stands on an arm of Cobequid Ba' near the mouth of the Shubenacadie. Maitland ships and Maitland sai ors may be found on every sea. Near Maitland, in the gypsum rock, so abundant in all these regions, there is a curious cave worth . exploring. Its entrance is barely large enough to admit one com- fortably; but It enlarges as you go in, and is some 400 or 500 yards m depth. Stages also run from Shubenacadie, in a southeasterlv direc- tion, to the gold district of Gay's River and a number of villa-es be- yond. The gold of Gay's River is found in the conglomerate rock of a long ridge of heights called Boar's Back. Leaving Shubenacadie we pass the villages of Milford (26 miles), Elmsdale (32 miles), and En- held (34 miles). Enfield has a large and prosperous establishment for the manufacture of pottery, its clay being excellent in strength and 218 NKW ULAHUOW TO TKirUo AND HALIFAX. tnxlnio. Thro.. imIIph h.hiMi of MntloM m„ ||„. rai„„„H OUham (/old Miurn, hImho 1111.111/. vuvV vI..(.|m v.mv li.-li n-HiniM. About 7 iiiilo,' on fll.' Olh.M' «l.|.< of Kndrl.l „,.. Ilio lirnfrar <iol,l Mi,„„^ ,.,|.iHlly fi.nious. Afl.-r imihhIii^ ()iiI(|||.|<I (MH miloH) wo com., to tli.- M.i;,'-stu(ion of (Jiaml •'"'*"• ' '"'""I w"'''!' «»!" M"' Hiinio iiiniu., wlu.ivin may lu< hiul Home oH.'.ll.iil (.oiKIIhIiIiik. „h ill III., ollin- liikoH of tliin "lioiKhborliood. Afl.'f |HiNHlii|r \V..|liii,xlo.Mll rnilcH), iin.l sUirliiif? r.oii^' I,nk.., tli.. tiiiin niiiH Into \Vi,nlmn- .h,„rtio„ (4N milrs), hIku. ((„. Inlomiloniii! R. U. «'«Miii....»H Willi (li.. WliulHOf iiii.l Annapolis IJailwnv. Tli.. junofion con- kIkIh, Iio)*I.|oh llio Mtiilion Inmso, of sonir lialf-dozoinvhitowasliod Awn- Uo^ II llltlo wliHowaHliotl .'ImiivIi. somo pK'diivH.nu. pools of doni- wnlor. a lair s|„iiiKlin^.. of ^oaJs. myri.i.ls of ^mviU, may l...wIdors, mid \\v\v an.i (hoiv in tli,. nvvio.s 11 l.lm.l...in-l»usli. It is a pioturos.iuc jdmv, hut m ono dtopw Ihoio imloss now and tlioii to Imnt for wati-r- lillos itnd to n«.t ti hoti'l ono must nin on to Hodford or Halifax. Thi-oo uilloM h..yond Windsor .Innotlon is Ho.ky l.ako, uonr tlio Wavorly (Jold Minos, uliioli aiv ohaviningly sitiiato.l in a piotuivsinio and narrow val- loy hol««.on two l.ik,.s. Kifty-tlnvo niilos fioin Tn.io wo run ovor a hijrh lu'ldHV. «oix»ss a hoautifiil pooplod valloy, into tho villajro of llodfo'^il t»ud a landsoapo of onohautiKont, Modfoixl Is at tho hoad of tho noble wator oallod Ihslfonl llasiu, .» j;ivat lako-liko oxpansi«>n of Halifax IhnlMu-, it Is i> niilos fi>,un Halifax, with whioh it is muioottHl by !*ub.nK»u trains as «oll as by tho oxpivss sorvi^v of tho Intori-oloniai. lis btxitinj; and lva,hin;r suv not to Iv surpassinl, and its wators an^ doliohMisly mild In tompoiatuiv. Many Halij^nuans havo thoir sununor ivsldomvs hoiv. and thoiv ar.^ also two j^hhI hotols*. tho Ji,xif\mi and tho AVA^t^r. oKvso to tho station. >>hoso mtos art^ ^^J ^n^r day or |H0 por wo..k. lUthor ,vmo tho trim onift of tho Halifax Koval Yaoht fsp»adi>m. It IS a Ivautiful drivo U^txx^vu Halifax and l?iHlfonl. and tho ovad |vasst\s tho quaint Httlo stniotun* of tho PHhi-x's L.>,1^, \>»M>h,>l on tho or,\st of a pn^ity liulo wiHHi»>i knoll and ,<h.^king to tho Ihumlor of tho |%avvinn ti-aius^. This rx^ix at is swix^i with rxMu^tic »uouuvn,\s of tho l>uko of Kont's si>jvMm» in Halitax. and of the lady >»h,vv,v „^.,,^,^ ^^^ {„ ,jj^^^^, ^j^^^ ^^, i«tin>atoly tvnn.vttxi with his. Tho rwih\v^,l skirts tho lNa,Mn. for tho tinvst jvan oUv<o to th<. wator's e^lsw, *ndth<» dt^liJ:^tf\d 'MMts" that jxass in s»k\>vv<hw lvfx>rx^ om>*s ot«>' w«,>^t txm^vwt the ^Md of tW artist. Rw mikv l>e>\>rKi ii^s'-o^' i< K.s^it\jj?3Aw. *ith its hxw?. x^:K\i tho FMir^Mik Mm«v, ami tho fitw lv»^v^ UniKH^Vi* of tht^ v\vnxr^u s^-Jkvj fv>r pHs. «iUt\i M.MUJt Sj. Vln- I NKW GLASGOW TO TliUUO AND HALIFAX. cent. Off Kookin^'hnm is u faiii 2JU I onH HMving-courHc, Tlioti «»• corr c to tito NuirowM, whore the harbor is but u quarter of a ruile in width. Present- \y we enter the crowded freight-yards of tlie dinfry suburb of Uieliinond ; and a mile farther on the train conies to a stop in the depot of Halifax' on North Sfyect. * Halifax. ^<JK?/ ^'T'^^'-'^r'^K "flif'^^ a^coniing to the census of m*\, wan n' ^- J}"!: ''^"i"^ •'"^^'''^ """^ the I/a/ifcu- (*2 to *« pc-r d^y) the J •■ ^A '•'' ^''''^'7; <*^ *" *'-^*^)- '^*'" P""<Mpal streets are trav- ersed by horse-ears (fare S cents). The city is well sur.pli.-.i with eal.H, whose charges are as follows: For each person for any dintano u,. to 1 n..Ie, 2..C ; lA u.ile, 30c.; 2 miles. 4()c. ; 2^ miles', l.^e. ; .S ,„jles, 50t. ; and all other distances m like proportion. One half th.; above ^ate^ to be paid if returning in the same carriage. K..r all eabs or .-ar- riages hired by the hour: For a one-horse carriage per hour 7r„- • for a ovo-horse carriage per hour, ^1 ; and in like pn,portion for Vvery fraction of an hour. To or from any steamer or' passenger vessel, or o or from any hotel or .Iwelhng-house to any stage offiei^ railway ita- turn, or other place, with half a cwt. of luggage .V)c The chief clubs are the f/a/i/ax CM, aiul the 07y C/vA The hoj^af.Uva Sc.f,, } acU Club may also be mentioned.among many oi^ranizations of a similar class, as having a somewhat marked sJal baM>. The chief theatre.* are the Acar/e„u, of Mmir an-l Orph^in thll trom Halifax sail a number of steamboat lines: the Fumess Line to London; Dominion Line to Liverpool ; Donaldson Line to f;ia.-gow^ ^rinW V '? "'iV*'^ Allan Line to Liverpr,ol ; Red «>o«s Line to bt. John ^ Newfoundland : Anglo-French Line to <x IVrre- linen to Bermuda Jamaica, TurkN L^lands. and Havana: the Vam uVh Line o ^armouth: Ha ifax and P. E. I. Line to ("harlottetown ; Halifax and Newfoundland Line (Steamer Harlaw, to Caf* Hreton and the French Sriwl, '"^Tt^''"^= '^^"^"^ "'^^^ Bridgewator Line to Luner.b, rg Bndgewater and Liverpool : and the fine -teamers ff alifax and 011v,.tt;- of tht- Canada Atlantic and Plant Line to B^^ion. T>.ls U a u,i^x >lc- sirable route to Boston. The fare b f 7 : ret.™ ticket, f 12. .«Lu-. ^Hf JAV" *lr ". ^^T- ^•^ ''^°*^" '^"""f? ^he winder .*,! from Hahfax eve^ Walne^ay. at ^ ^ « . arnvin- in Px^,.>n T],r.rvlav at 1 P. M. : from Bo-ton every ijatuniay at noon. arriTing In Halifax .-owJar eTemn|, n p. m. Tbe^ummer .ailinir* are a.. foUr.ws : From B^^t.^; Tne^ay and Fnur^lay, « * ^. m„ and .-^nirday, at 10 r. «. Thtf,n^U rnket.^ *7 1^*-^ ai coM««ion with x\m Mm, ot« n^^x \u:^m*M raii- w^N *xA ttt-^^e cb^ted ihm^^. Tb, \^u are t^ *t/^T *n,i mm»«i Atlanw R*i!»*t aa^i tbe Y*™>yitli .<c«afe*hJp r>«i««i, ^^ J?! 220 HALIFAX. Tl... city of Halifax Ih ^itu«to(l on Ilnlifnx Hnrbor, formerly Che- bmto May, one of tlio fi.u-st ImihoiH i„ the world. TIh' harbor proper whose Indhm nu.iH.HiKnitics -'the diioi haven," is tJ n.ilo.s h.n^, with m average breadth of 1 mile, and has in every portion .eeure aneh«.raRe for the larReHt Hhij.s that float. The history of Halifax h con.para- lively J)rief, but stirrin- It was fo.imh'd in June, 1749, by the Hon Kdwar.l Cornwallis, with 2,rm Hritish inwni-rants. The "ehief pro^ moter of the enterprise was the Karl of Halifax, Fr.-.sident of the Hoard of Tra(h' and Plantations. When winter eame there were nearly 5 000 people within the palisaded wuIIh of the infant city. The buil.ling of Halifax was a proelamation to the French that En-land int.'nd.-d to make the i)eninsula thoroufrhly and pernmnentiv her own; and forth- with the Acadians and their Indian allies, under the direction of a-ents from Quebec and Cape Breton, be-an to harass the new settlement and strive ii every way to compass its destruction. If men went ah.ne into the woo.is to hunt or father fuel, they were cut off by un.seen foes (h.tlyin- houses were raided by ni-ht, and their occupants slaughtered or carried away captive. Children were stolen from the threshold or the cradle. A small village had rai)idly sprung up where now stands Darlmonth, across the harbor. One night the citizens of Halifax, too far away to render aid, had to watch helplessly the burning of this' set- tiement, and li.Uen to the noise of a conflict who.se result they could guess but too well. The case was in some respects a parallel, in others a sharp contrast, to that of Montreal on the ni-ht of the Lachine mas- sacre. When the Halifax contingent arrived with daybreak on the scene they found the scalped bodies of the settlers among the smoking rums of their dwellings. This was in 1751. The new city speedily became a great naval station, whereat the English forces concentrated for the attack of Louisbouig and Quebec; and during the American Revolution Halifax was the chief base of Hritish operations When the independence of the Thirteen Colonies was acknowledged, the popu- lation of Halifax grew suddenly by the immigration of some thousands of United Empire Loyalists. The growth of Halifax since then has been slow as regards population, but n)ore considerable as far as wealth and influence are concerned. The American civil war brought Halifax a short period of remarkable prosperity, when she became the head of extensive blockade-running operations and a center for Southern sym- pathizers. With peace came something like stagnation, from which he city has awakened only within the last decade. 1 HALIFAX. 221 „ J THK FOHTIFK'ATIONH. In the city of thv. present day the chief interest eenterH in the fortifieations, wliieh conntitute Halifax the stronycHt fortress iti the New Worhl. Tl>e defenses beji;in at Sanihro Inland, off the ni.uitli of the harbor, wliieh is oeeupied by a " looiioiit " party of artillery. Two miles b> 'nw the city is Af(ici\ti/»\s /stand, crowned with stone batteries, and carrying a lij^'ht to warn ships off the Thrumcap Shoals. Above and below, stronj; battel ies, of which the chief is York Kedoiibt, lie in wait at i)t)iiits of vanta},'e on txjtli sides of the harbor. In Point Pleasant Park, imniediately adjoining the city, be- tween the harbor and the northwest Arm, are the brtteries of Point Pleasant and Fort Ogilvie. Across the harbor, just below Bar/, mouth, are the frowning works of Fort Cfaretirr, and in mid-har- bor is the grassy cone of (/rnr</e\i htand, with armaiiionts and de- fenses of vast but unknown strength. On this fortrers (Jreat Britain has lately spent and is still spending immense sums, and it may be con- sidered the equal of the citadel, if not its superior in some res|)ects. Of old it was possible to gain admittance to this stronghold, but now its stupendous mysteries are ki-pt obscure, since visitors were found to have made interesting plans and notes in regard to the works. Tow, if any one, peculiarly favored by authority, should gain entrance to a portion of the interior, he would find the green and harmless-looking island swarming with troops, and honey-combed with galleries and arsenals and casemates. From the port-hole of one of these casemates, around whose mouth the grass waves innocently, and behind which lurks the gr'm shape of a great cannon like a beast of prey in ambush, one locks out upon a sunlit scene of peace and human activity. On the ramparts of the citadel (to which it is now almost impossible to gain even the most superficial entrance) one is 22Y ft. above sea-level, and the view is magnificent. The city skirts the citadel hill, its streets running up the height as far as permitted. The works were begun by the Duke of Kent when commander of the forces at Halifax, and almost yearly since they have been changed and strengthened in one way or another, till now the position is regarded as impregnable ; and the barracks within the walls are shell-proof. The armament is largely composed of immenssly heavy muzzle-loaders of a modern type, firing conical Palliser chilled iron shot. Around the narrow entrance gate stands guard a semicircular battery of 11 gun>\ On the citadel flag-staff i"22 HALIFAX. « n flutter gayly the raany-colored signal flags that announce approaching ships. OTHER POINTS OP INTEREST. In no way inferior to the view from the c;tad(.l is that from the decli of boat or steamer as we sail up the harbor. The climbing streets and •oofs, the so-^.ring spires, and the crowning fortifications come together with extpiisitc effect. In a corner of the dark and broken Dartmouth shca-es lurks the little town of DartUiOuth. The coloring of the scene is lovely enough in the broad sunlight ; but when the sun is setting at tb? head of the harbor it becomes simply superb. The masts of the shipping rise black ir. a flood of rose or amber, the win- dows on tlie Dartmouth shore are a blaze of molten copper, and the sky above the hills of the outer harbor, to eastward, takes on a hue of wonderful beryl green. In this divine light the grim bulks of her Majesty's war-ships, motionless at their anchorage off the Dockmnl, rise black and portei.. ^us. The Royal Dockyaid, toward the upper end of the city, extends for half a mile along the harbor front, and is in every respect a thoroughly equipped navy-yard. It is divided from the rest of the city by a high stone wall, and is not c;.n to the pub- lic; but permission to visit it may usually be obtained from the superintendent. A little farther up town, on Gottingen St., is the Ad- mirahn Home, where dwells the Commander-in-Chief of the North American and West India Squadrons. The Admiralty House overlooks, though at some little distance, the costly and massive structure of the Dry Dock, lately completed. This structure is 613| ft. long at the top, 598 ft. long Mt the bottom ; in width 102 ft. at top, 10 ft. at bot- tom ; and has a drauglit al wrter on the sills of 30 ft. This exceeds the dimensions of the Brooklyn Dry Dock by 4tJ ft. in length and 13 iu width. It is built of granite and concrete. A little N. stand the spa- cious WcUinriton Barracks. The general effect of the streets of Hali- fax is somber, from the prevalence of gray stone or gray paint, or in many quarters, no paint at ail. The best portions of Ilou'is and Granville Sts. are well and sol: Jiy built, showing wealth without dis- play. The most important structure on HoUis St. is the massive, dark- gray PaHiamcHt Buihling, which must be regarded, in its severe sim- plicity, as a really good piece of architecture. The Chambess of the Assembly and the Legislative Council are tastefully decorated, and contain some rather notable portraits. A.raong these is one of Sir « n HALIFAX. 223 of Thomas Strange, painted by Eenjamin West. There are also several of England's kings and queens, and such distinguished sons of Nova Scotia as Judge Haliburton, better known as Sam Slick, Sir John In- glis, the defeiider of Lucknow, and Sir Feuwick Williams, the hero of Kars. The building also contains, in the Legislative Library, a valu- able collection of books. Opposite the Parliament Building stands a handsome freestone structure whose lower stories are occupied by the Post-Office and Custom-House, and its third floor by the Provincial Museum. Just S. of the Parliament House are the fine brown-stone quarters of the Halifax Club. Farther along Hollis St., on the E. side, are the chief hotels of the city, the Halifax Hotel and the Queen. The Halifax occupies a historic building, which has been enlarged and mod- ernized to one of the best-equipped hotels in Canada. On the corner • of Granville and Prince Sts. is the Y. M. C. A. Building, with its library and reading-rooms. A good deal of the business of Gianville St. is shifting farther up the hill to Harrington St., one of the most important thorough- fares in the city. This street is peculiarly confusing to visitors, for in its lower portion it calls itself Pleasant St., while its upper or northern section is known as Loekman St. ; and its last extreniity becomes Campbell Road. Only the life-long resident is expected to know the point at which one name ceases to apply and another comes into effect. On Harrington St., at the south end of the Grand Parade, stands the dingy but dignified old church of St. PanVs. This great wooden structure is the oldest church in the city, having been built in the year 1750, at the State expense. It is an exact copy of St. Peter's Oiurch, on Vere St., London. The building is ont of groat historic interest and its collection of mural tablets is richer than that of any other church in Canada. It accommodates about 2,000 peoi)le. The Parade is the central square of the city, and occupies a teirace high above Harrington St. Th« terrace wall is a splendid piece of masonry in gray granite. At the north end of the Parade rises the .- -tely pile of the New City Hall, on the site formerly oc- cupied by the buildings of Dalhonsic University. This progressive and flourishing university now occupies a handsome new structure some dis- tHnce out Morris St. It has made great advances within the last few years, under the presidency of Dr. Forrest. Moving south along Harrington St. from the Parade we pass the efl'tctive new structure of the Church of England Institute, and then the Hi ' 1 I ii wr i it* I r J I t ill' >, 'Rl 224 HALIFAX. building of the City Club. Then comes the pretty little theatre, called the Academy of Music ; and opposite, on the corner of SJpring Garden Road IS the Glebe House, soon to be demolislied, where dwells the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Halifax. A stone's-throw from the corner in a most commanding situation, stands .SV. Mavf/^ Cathedral, bvfar the most important church, architecturally, in the city. It is built of gray stone with a fine front and spire of granite. In the spire is a chime of bells' not remarkably melodious. Beyond the Academy of Music stand. St Matthewh Church, belonging to the Presbyterians. This is a buildin- of some architectural distinction-which can not be said of the majority of Halifax churches. Next to St. Matthew's, on a charming site is the plain freestone structure of G over nmmt House, whose grounds 'ex tend through to Hollis St. Immediately opposite is old St Paul's Cemetery, very notigeable for its fine trees and its striking monument to the memory of t«o Xova Scotian officers, Welsford and Parker who fell before Scbastopol. Continuing along Pleasant St. we pass Morris St., on which lies Dalhousie College, already mentioned ; the Exhibition Building, the Institution for the Blind, and the plain Church or pro-Cathedral of St. Luke's, the see-church of the oldest AnKli can colonial bishopric. Beyond Morris St. we pass the quiet and aris- tocratic Waverly Hotel, and the eminently successful Presbyterian La.hes' College. The next cross-street is South St., at the foot of which is the Roi/al Engineers^ Yard, familiarly known as the Lum- ber Yard. This is a favorite point of departure for boating excur- sions and for the races of the Royal Yacht Squadron. If we con tmue along Pleasant St., we presently find ourselves beyond the houses and skirting the water-side. We are in the beautiful and spacious resort of Point Pleasant Park, with Its matchless carria-e- drives, and winding foot-paths, and secluded dells, and bits of wild wood scenery, and broad sea-views, and every here and there the exhilarating surprise of a strong fortification or an ambushed bat- tery. The park is imperiil property, but leased indefinitely to the city at a shilling a year. For a space of one day in each vear the park is clo.sed to the public to preserve the property against 'a claim of right-of-way. From the seaward point of the park, wherP the bar- bor IS joined by the 'vaters of the Northwest Arm, is commanded a hne view, including the high fortifications of York Redoubt The Northwest Arm is a beautiful water about 3 miles long and half a mile in width, the head of which comes within 2 mWc^ ot Bedford Bmin HALIFAX. 225 Along its eastern shore arc some of the best private residences of Halifax. The Arm is a dcliglitful resort in summer, and is travert^ed by a small steamer^ which runs also to MacXab's Island. Its waters are navigable throughout its entire length, and afford some good sport in the way of lobster-spearing and JBshing for pollock with the fly. Dalhers find its temperature rather low compared with that of Bedford Basin ; and there is the added disadvantage of the possibility, some- what remote indeed, of a visit from a small shark. At the head of the Arm is Melville Inland, once occupied by prisoners of war, now used as a military prison.. At the mouth of the Arm is Pernett's Island, and a short distance above it are two immense iron rings fastened into the rock on each side of the inlet, from which was slung, during the War of 1812, a massive chain cable to bar the ingress of hostile ships. Other points of interest in the neighborhood of the Arm are The Dingle, noted for its fairy loveliness, and Dutch Village, supposed to be interesting. About 3 miles from the Arm is a famous '^ Rocking. Sione'''' of granite, which may be set in motion by a small lever. This peculiar phenom- enon is on the St. Margaret's Bay Road. It weighs something over 150 tons, and oscillates on a base of 12 inches by 6 inches. Nearer town, on the Prospect Road, is a similar stone of much smaller dimensions. One of the chief " lions " of Halifax is situated where Spring Gar- don Road intersects with South Park St. We refer to the beautiful Public Gardens, perhaps the finest in Canada or the Northern States. The grounds cover 18 acres, and are most tastefully laid out and adorned, besides being endowed with great natural beauty to begin with. On the picturesque waters of the pond are interesting water- fowl, including black and white swans. On Saturday afternoons a mili- tary band plays from four till six ; and on summer evenings concerts are often given, when the grounds are brilliantly illuminated. At the western end are tenni.s-courts. In the immediate neighborhood of the Gardens are Camp Hill Cemetery, the Convent of the Sacrod Heart, the grounds of the Wanderers' Athletic Association, Dalhousie College, already mentioned, the vast new pile of the Poor-House, the Victoria General Hospital, and the pretty little church known as Bishop's Chapel, near which has been laid the corner-stone for the proposed Anglican Cathedral. Among the many other churches of the city, the most interesting are, perhaps, the curious circular structure of St. George's (Ang.) on Brunswick St., the handsome Fort Massoy Church (Presb.) on Tohin St., the spacious new brick structure of St. Patrick's 15 22t) HALIFAX. (R. C.) on Brunswick St., the pretty Methodist Church on Grafton St., the quaint little Dutch Church far up Brunswick St., built for the German immigrants in 1701, and the almost equally unpretentious Garrison Chapel on Brunswick St., just below the Citadel. The serv- ices at Garrison Chapel are interesting to visitors on account of the impressive milit-ry display which accompanies them. Among other points of interest are the Great Grain Elevator up Water St. and the Cotton Mills on Kempt Koad. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, in the early morning, the traveler should make a special point of visiting the Green Market, where the country folk, ignoring the stalls of the com- fortable brick Market-House, sell their goods on the broad side- walks surrounding the Post-Office. The characteristic scene is thus described by the Rev. R. Murray : There are Dutch women from along the eastern shore with their baskets of green crops, which have been nourished on the purest ozone and the richest sea-kelp. There are the Blue-nose women, broad and high-colored, fearless alike of wind and weather, as they drive their loaded teams by night, over rough and lonelv roads, to reach the ear- liest Dartmouth ferry-boat. They oflFer, with "a friendly smile on their weather-beaten ^jgages, primrose butter, perdu under cool cabbage- leaves, and pearly eggs, food for the gods. There are lank-limbed countrymen, clad in gray homespun, standing beside their loads of vegetables or salt-marsh hay; not keen and shrewd-eyed, like New England farmers, but bashfully courteous of speech, with the soft lisp of German fatherland on their tongues or the burr of their Scottish ancestry. Here are a pair of Frenchwomen with baskets of knitted goods on their arms. Contrast the withered and yellow grandame, her grizzled hair bulging in a roll above her bushy eve- brows, her claw-like hands plying her knitting-wires, with the' fresh young girl by her side, whose arch black eyes sparkle from out of her smooth olive face, and her white teeth display themselves in full force as we finger the huge mittens in her basket. Old and young are habited alike, in blue or black handkerchiefs tightly knotted under the chin, loose blue jackets with naj)kin-shawls folded over them, and short woolen skirts. Scores of them have been on the road all night, trotting the 26 miles from Chezzetcook on foot, their fingers busily plying the knitting-needles all the way. There squats a negro matron on the pavement, her clouted feet stretched before her in utter disresard of passers-by, a short black pipe between her pendulous lips Her layers of rags clothe her like the fungi of a dead tree ; her padded hood is fashioned to fulfill the office of a saddle for her load. She has luscious wild strawberries in little birch-barks, which she otters you in an unctuous fahelto, stuffing her pipe into her bosom, the better to overhaul her store for a fresh one. You pause in your bargain, won- dering nhcther her teeth hulled the tempting fruit ! HALIFAX. 227 The " noble red raan " and his squaw also attend market. There they stand, a degenerate pair, clad in the cast-off clothes of the white man, their merchandise consisting of flag and willow baskets "ayly dyed, and an occasional porcupine-quill box. The squaw is premature- ly aged. Her broad, copper-colored face is inconceivably wrinkled • her eyes, from their ambush of folds, peer forth with a snaky gleam.' The brave," propped up against the Post-Office wall, dozes with his bunch of rabbits (in their season) dangling in his hand, and, workin" his jaws mechanically on his quid, dreams of— rum. A bronze-tinted papoose is strapped under a filthy basket at the mother's back, and its impassive little face surveys life over her shoulder with a perfect phi- losophy. This trio has drifted from one of the wigwam-hamlets near Dartmouth, and thither they will return when their wares are disposed of, if they do not fall victims to rum and the station-house. The town of Dartmouth, population between ■i,000 and 5,000, is reached by ferry from the foot of George St., or by a railway which crosses the harbor at the Narrows. The town contains some fine pri- vate residences, whose owners do business in Halifax. The chief points of interest at Dartmouth are Fort Clarence, 'ready mentioned, the Sugar Refinery, and the imposing gray-stone ^ granite structure of the Mount Hope Lunatic Asylum. Fort Clarence guards what is known as the " Eastern Passage," which was supposed to be impassable for large ships till the occasion on which the Confederate cruiser Talla- hassee made her escape by it. The Confederate ship was blockaded in Halifax harbor by an American squadron ; which, however, paid no attention to the Eastern Passage, supposing it unnavigable. The Tal- lahassee took advantage of a favoring wind and tide, and made good her escape by the dangerous channel. A few miles from Dartmouth are the Montague Gold Mines, the pleasant summer resort of Cow Bay, with its surf-bathing, and the pretty chain of the Dartmouth Lakes! Dartmouth has some important manufacturing interests, among them a famous skate-factory and a rope-walk. From Halifax as a starting-point the traveler has many pleasant side trips at his command. He may go by boat eastward to Canso and Cape Breton and the west coast of Newfoundland ; to Si. John's, .Vewfoundland, and St. Pierre ; westward along the Atlantic coast to Yarmouth and intermediate ports by boat or stage, or up the Annapo- lis Valley as far as may be desired. If tJ- t.-avcler intends going to Boston via Yarmouth, Annapolis, or St. Jolrn, he will " do " the An- napolis Valley and " Land of Evangeline " en route. If, however he intends taking the steamer Halifax at Halifax, for Boston, he will do well 'fl n i ?f ^ 228 HALIFAX. to make a round trip down the Atlantic coast of the peninsula, by steam- ers Bridyewatcr or City of St. John, or by stage, through Margaret's Bay, Cliester, Mahone Hay, and Lunenburg to Hridgcwator, thence by the admirable new cars of the Nova Scotia Central R. R. across the prov- ince to Middleton on liie Windsor and Annapolis R. R., and thence by the Dominion Atlantic Ry. througli the regions immortalized by Long- fellow, through W'olfriUc and Windsor, back to Halifax. This is in every way a most enjoyable trip, with many points of interest along the journey. A more extended and diversified round trip may be taken by continuing down the coast from Bridgewater to Yarmouth, thence back to Halifax by the Dominion Atlantic Ry., or from Digby to St. John by Bay of Fundy S. S. Company. The places on the Do- minion Atlantic Ry. and the Nova Scotia Central will be referred to later in connection with the trip to Annapolis and beyond ; and the places between Halifax and Bridgvwaler in our account oi the voyage down the Atlantic coast. NEWFOUNDLAND. To St. John's, Newfoundland, one may go by the steamers of the Allan Line or Red Cross Line. The time occupied in the passage is about 48 hours. The Allan steamers sail for Liverpool fortnightly, beginning this year (1891) on May 11th. Cabin passage from Halifax to St. John's is $20 ; round trip, $40. The steamer Portia, of the Red Cross Line, plying between New York, Halifax, and St. John's, makes fortnightly sailings, and charges $18 between Halifax and St. John's; $34 for the round trip. To St. Pierre one may go from Halifax by the steamship Si. Pierre, of the Anglo-French S. S. Co., sailing every alternate Wednesday, or by the coastal steamer from St. John's. The fare from Halifax ii* $15, for the round trip $25, which includes meals and berth ; the fare from St. John's is from $(5 to $7. The Island of Newfoundland, dubbed " England's oldest col- ony," is a self-governing province not connected with the Canadian Confederation. It forms the eastern wall, as it were, of the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; is 419 miles long by 300 in extreme breadth ; and owing to its numerous bays it has an enormous extent of coast-line. Its fish- eries are perhaps the richest and most famous in the world ; its sealing industry is vast and picturesquely perilous ; its climate is almost as harsh and forbidding as its coasts, but there are sections very favor- NEWFOUNDLAND. 229 able to agriculture ; Its lakes and rivers swarm with game-fish, its wil- dernesses with deer and wild-fowl ; like Ireland, it has no snake or venomous reptile; its mineral wealth, hard.'y at all developed, consists of silver, copper, lead, iron, plumbago, manganese, coal, gypsum, etc. ; its Indians, the strange Beothucs, have gone into that limbo whither the dodo and the great auk preceded them ; the va.-t interior is in great part unexplored, and is as full of mystery as the colonial politics. The hutory of XcwfoiiwUand begins with the Norsemen in the tenth century. Its fishing waters were frequented by Xorman Breton and Basque fishermen during the fourteenth century, it was visited by John Cabot in 1497, by the Portuguese explorers Cortereal and Verazzano in ISOl and 1524 respectively, and by Cartier in 1534. In 1 583 it was taken possession of in the name of England by Sir Hum- phrey Gilbert, and settlements were speedily established along the coast. About the end of the seventeenth century and in the"early part of the eighteenth the south and east coasts were the scene of fierce struggles between the Frencli and English. By the Treaty of Utrecht, signed in 1713, the French, while relinquishing all claim to the island, were secured in the possession of the rocky islets of St. Pierre and Miquelon, and of certain fishing privileges along the west coast. The provisions relating to these privileges were very stu- pidly drawn up by the British commissioners, whence arises in the present day no end of difficulty and disagreeableness. The island was formed into a province in 1728. In 1761 and 1796 the French made vigorous efforts to conquer it. In 1632 was convened the first Legis- lative Assembly. By a census taken in 1884 the population was placed at 193,121. Now, in 1891, in quarrels with England and France and Canada, the ancient colony is endeavoring to manufacture history at short notice. Her position as gate-keeper to the St. Lawrence makes it forever impossible that she should be permitted by England to' be- come a member of the American Union. St. John's. The city of St. John's, the capital of Newfoundland, is on the extreme eastern coast of the peninsula of Avalon. It is nearer Europe than any other port of North America. It is 1,076 miles from Montreal, and 1,730 miles from Cork. The approach from the sea is very impressive. The deep, secure harbor is gained by a strongly fortified passage called the Narrows, where the lofty sea-wall of the island is rent asund°er. The city ■■•« k ■Ii \\ •jp-i I i-'Kl 230 8T. JOHN 8. is built chiefly of wood, and is striking mainly from irs situation. Small as the houses are, and dingy as are the streets, the city contains great wealth. The chief hotels are the New Jthndc, a house equipped with all modern conveniences, and the Unio7i, on Water St. Livery charges are very moderate, and carriages may be hired at about 80 cents an hour. The population of St. John's, according to the last census, is 81,142. The chief trade is in fish and fish products, and in seal-oil, for the refining of which there are several establishments; but the merchants of the city do also a heavy local trade in supplyin*^ the " out-harbors," as the other towns of the island are styled. The city has tanneries, breweries, biscuit, shoe, and furniture factories. It also has one of the best graving-docks in America. At times, on the arrival of the sealing steamers, there is stir enough in the streets of St, John's to satisfy the demands of a more metropolitan center, and the wits and sticks of the police are sometimes taxed to keep order. For about a month in each summer the city is thronged to overflowing with people from the north and west coasts, selling their produce and laying in provisions for the winter. The main business artery is Water St., occupied by the wholesale supply-stores of the merchant princes of St. John's, and by a libera) sprinkling of grog-shops and cheap eat- ing-houses. Water St. is unpretentiously but massively built. On its northern portion stands the Custora-House. The Market-House and Post Office occupy a commodious building about its center, and at its south end are the bridge and causeway which cross the head of the harbor. The most important structure in the colony is the great Ho- tnan Catholic Cathedra/, crowning the ridge which overlooks the city and the harbor. The Cathedral, with the Bishop's Palace, Convent, and St. Bonaventure's College, which cluster about it, cost $500,000. The Cathedral itself is a vast pile, built of stone, much of which was brought over fiom Ireland. It has twin towers, an immensely long cloister, and no aisles. In the grounds before it stand a number of statues, among them one of St. Peter. The Irish Catholics form a great majority of the citizens of St. John's. About half-way up the slope stands the not yet completed Cathedral of the Chvrch of England. When finished this will be a very beautiful Gothic structure. It was designed by the great English architect. Sir Gilbert Scott, and its completion is delayed by lack of funds. On what is called the ^Military Road, running along the high ridge occupied by the Roman Catholic Cathedral, stand the old Barracks, and also the f I I lit 1 ■3 f CO i IS I p< in in in th to th or th cl( ab to wl of tir ch thi lai mi Ml an ve; wh foi an< a r ing an( ing we str im] by the eqv difj ST. JOHN 8, 281 Parlinmmt Building, a massive stone structure, with a really fine Doric portico. North of the Parliament House is Government Home, occupy- ing pretty and well-kept grounds. The other important public build- ings are the penitentiary, hospital, Athentcum Building, educational institutions, and poorhouse. The city rejoices in a rickety suburb with the euphonious appellation of Maggotty Cove, through which we pass to climb to the vantage-ground cf SiRiial Hill. On Signal Hill \» the Observaton/, from which, and from many another point of vantage on the edge of precipitous steeps, we look down upon the city and the harbor in their windless amphitheatre. The crest of the hill is clothed with soft, fine grasses. Amid them lies a deep lake 360 ft. above the sea. Passing the great stone barracks we come at length to a little battery, perched on the edge of a cliff 500 ft. high, from which we look down directly into the Narrows, thronged with the sails of its fishing fleets. Immediately below is the place where, in war- time, the harbor is closed by great chains swung from shore to shore. As Paris is called the gayest of capitals, St. John's has been characterized by Warburton as the fishiest. " Round a great part of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there is not much of the former to depend upon." These curious structures, which Mr. Warburton called sheds, are known to Newfoundlanders as " flakes," and are a prominent feature of the landscape of every settlement, con- veying a characteristic odor to the breezes. This is a grievance to which one readily gets accustomed. In the course of her cai oer New- foundland's capital has suffered severely from fires, notably in 1816 and 1817. In 1860 St. John's was the scene of a ferocious riot, when a mob of Irish Catholics took possession of the town and began pillag- ing the stores. The Boyal Newfoundland Companies were ordered out and posted before the JIarkct-IIouse, where they stood for hours mak- ing no reply to the taunts of the rioters. As night fell, however, they were fired upon by the mob ; whereupon they responded with a de- structive volley. At this juncture the bells of the cathedral sounded an imperious summons to the rioters, who flocked thither, and were ordered by the bishop, on pain of excommunication, to keep the peace. Since then, and up :.o the very latest days, there have been other almost equally discreditable disturbances in the island, arising out of religious disagreements. TRII'H FliOM ST. JoiinV. Trips from St. John's. i\Ja,no! T" ^;[;""'-""''« '^'^ ^"«'->* ^ '"'ony iH very n.uch behind the thne . Her HottU-monts are a mere fringe abont the coant, and c«nnnun.oat.on is carried on, for the nu>.t part, with picturesqne i. .esulanty. by nutans of eoasting-vosseln. A railroad run.s f.om St. JohnH around ConrrpHon /?.,/ to IM,roo,i, and /larf.or Grace (85 m. ts). It ,H be.ng continued up the cast coast to the town of THnitu and on to the coppcr-n.ining diHtrict.H of Jlall Bn,>. The experiencoH of the engmeers .n locating this railroad were thrilling enough to have occurrci .n Central Africa. They were attacked at thnes by n.en with 8hot-gunH ami women with pitchforks, who dreaded lest their labors should .-esult .n an inerease of taxation. The train leaves St. John's about 10 A.M., and reaches Ilarbar Grace at 8.45 p.m. (fare, $2 T.o) Ihere is son.e talk of a railroad across Newfoundland to St. OeorJ, Ban which would open up the island to modern influences Around St. John's there a.e some very beautiful and striking drives over hrm and well-kept roads. One of the most charming of these by way of the lovely little QuUkhj-Vidd, Lake and Bally llaly Bo-^ to he deep, wooded lake of Virginia Water, where was once the summer esulence of Newfoundland's (Governors. The drive mav well be Z tended over the high and moss-grown reaches of the -Barrens " to Logie Bay and Torbay, whore one gets a good idea of the Newfound- land coast scenery. This scenery is characterized by an ahnost total riTT, '^'^'•'^f ^^' '^' «''«^«^ ^"»«i«ting of lofty cliffs, about whose bases thunder the ndghtiest surges of the Atlantic. E;ery here and there th.s forbidding wall is broken by a little opening called a < cove ' usually deep enough to serve as a haven for the fishing-boats. At the book n , , '''' T"" '"'"'""" '" ^'"^ *^^ ^'^''ghts a brown trout- brook and here gathers a cluster of fishermen's cottages, in an ideal ^cusmn. Another lovely drive is to the wildly romli^ scene., of ^unrlotT' ". r'"'"" "'^^- ^* *'"^ P«''"* '' ^ comfortable count,> hotel, pa.t whose window.s roars and flashes a white cascade If one ,s fond of coaching, he may go by stage over n.atchlcss roads through the sweet pa.^oral scenes of what is called the Strait Shore it T '" ''"'^'" "' ^'^'^'^^^'^^ ^^ '""«^)' ^'^^ -hieh is Cape Speai the most easterK r>uii.t of North America; Petty Harbor f 10 miles), near which is 1 'Sv 'Uj phenomenon called the " Spout," a The Monthly Mail Train from tLdl's Bay to Vodroy. TRIPS PROM ST. John's. oP» hole m the vaulted roof of a deep sca-cavcrn, through which, durinR stonn and high tides, the water is hurled in a huge fountain visible for m.lcs about; Bay Bulls (19 miles). Witless Boy (22 miles), Mobile (24 miles). Toad Cove (26 miles), La Manche (32 n.i]^), Brigus (34 miles) Cape Broylo (38 miles), with fine salmon-fishing in the- river that flows around th. foot of Hell Ilill, Caplin Cove (4 > miles) ; the important little town of F<,-ryland (44 miles), where, in J 687, Sir David Kirk established himself when he was appointed Count Palatine of New- fo.mdland; A«iuafort (48 miles), Fermeuse (51 miles), Kenewse (54 miles), and the deadly ship-wrecking headland of Cape Race the southeast point of Newfoundland (64 miles). About 60 miles off Cape Race are the famous Grand Banks of Newfoundland, almost as noted for their naval battles as for their cod-fisheries. On the Crand Banks in 1755, the French men-of-war Alcide and Lys were captured, after a turious battle of five hours, b> the British frigates Dunkirk and De- fiance. In the same neighborhood, on August 19, 1812, took place the famous battle between the American frigate Constitution, of 44 gurs and the British frigate Guerritire, 38 guns, which resulted in an over- whelming victory for the American ship. The Banks extend four degrees north and south and five degrees east and west. They consist of vast submerged sand-banks, strewn with sea-shells, lying in water from 30 to 60 fathoms deep. Here, from February to November, feed the cod m innumerable swarms, and the fisheries give employment to over 100 - 000 men of all nations. " Throughout a great part of the spring, sum'- mer, and fall, the Grand Banks are covered by rarely broken fo-s through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. Sonietimes the^se fogs are so dense that objects within 60 ft. arc totallv invisible, at which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be' run down by the great Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sud- den and intense coldness which thoy send through even a midsummer day, by the peculiar white glare in the air about them, and by the roar- ing of the breakers on their sides." The tourist who wishes to visit the A. E. coml of Newfoundland and the shores of Labrador, will need to allow himself a clear month for the trip, and should select the midsummer season. As Newfound- land is not a portion of Canada, this hand-book will do little more t.ian mdiciUo routes, etc. The steamers of the northern coastal line leave St. John every alternate Monday during the summer, and in- 2U TRIPS FROM ST. JOHn's. tending passengers should communicate with the agents, Messrs. Bow- ring Bros., at St. John's, Newfoundland. The fare to the town of Trin- ity is $5, and to Bett's Cove or Nipper's Cove, where the Labrador steamer is taken, about $10. On the Labrador boats the charge, in- cluding meals and staterooms, is $2 per day. The fare is very ''plain, but the steamers are strong and seaworthy. Labrador is an intensely interesting country to explore, but not of much interest to the traveler, who merely takes a hasty look at its grim shores and passes on. It is hardly worth visiting unless one intends to do it thoroughly. Then, it has marvelous and almost virgin trout-and-salmon fishing to offeri and strange landscapes, and wonderful cataracts, and all the charm of the mysterious unknown. Along the Coast. The steamers of the Newfoundland Coastal Steamship Co. maintain a regular fortnightly service between St. John's and the northern out- Cle HtrouVll''""^' ^'■''' '"^ ^^^"^' ^'-''-^ *« ^''' ^«-' ^«5 *- From St. John's the steamer rounds Cape St. Francis, and stops oflP the shelterless roadstead of Bay Verd, an important fishing village Then it crosses the mouth of Trinity Bay, and enters the magnificent harbor of Trinity, one of the best on the American coast. Trinity has something less than 2,000 inhabitants, and is an important center and county town. It lies 115 miles from St. John's. Some farming is carried on in the neighborhood of the town; and opposite, on the S. side of the bay, lies a seaport with the exquisite name of " Heart's Con- tent." The next stopping-place beyond Trinity is Catalina, with a pop- ulation of about 1,500, situated on a secure harbor noted for its peculiar tidal phenomena. The next call is at the ancient town of Bona vista, with nearly 3,000 inhabitants, on Bonavista Bay. The harbor is dangerously exposed to nor'west winds, but the town has a growing commerce. It lies 146 miles from St. John's. Bonavista Bay is 3-7 miles across the mouth from Cape Bonavista to Cape Freels, and its indented shores are set with many fishing hamlets. On the N. shore is the important harbor and village of Greempond, on a small island so barren that soil for the village gardens had to be brought in boats from the mainland. After rounding Cape Freels the steamer sails N. W. across the many-islanded water called Hamilton Sound. The next stoppage is at the town of Foyo. on Fogo Island, 216 miles JO 0^ ': :.'*|1 h 1 ^^I^Hi i^ TRIPS FROM ST. J0HN*8. 236 from St. John's. On Fogo Island are outlying settlements with such curious names as "Joe Batt's Arm," " Seldom-come-by," and "Little Seldom-come-by." Leaving Fogo, the steamer enters a very wilderness of picturesque islands, and stops at the important town of TwilUngate, the capital of the northern division of Newfoundland. The town has about 3,000 inhabitants. It is built on two islands, connected by a bridge. The neighborhood is famous for producing the choicest speci- mens of the Newfoundland dog, jet black with a white cross on the bieast, now rare and costly. Fourteen miles from Twillingate is the Iirge fishing village of Exploits, with about 600 inhabitants. Near by is the mouth of the great Exploits River, navigable in large por Jons of its course. It runs through a low and well-wooded country. The Grand Falls of the Exploits are 145 feet in height. Its length is about 150 miles. Thence the steamer crosses the broad bay of Notre Dame to the famous mining village of Tilt Cove, on the border of a lovely lake. The village has about 800 inhabitants, nearly all miners. The mines are of copper and nickel, exceedingly rich; and an excellent quality of marble is found in the neighborhood. Bett's Cove is an- other important mining center, and indeed all the country about Notre Dame Bay abounds in mineral wealth, and its population has been growing rapidly of late years. A highway lea.ls across the island through coal areas and good farming lands to the Bay of Islands on the W. shore, and the projected railway to the southward will do much to develop this region. Here the coastal steamer turns back for St. John's, and travelers who are going farther N. take the sturdy Labrador boat. Conception Bay and the South Coast. The traveler who has come as far as St. John's should certainly take the railroad around Conception Bay. The first station is the watering- place of Topsail, 12 miles from S^ John's. Then come Manuels (14 miles); Killigrews (18 miles); Seal Cove (24 miles); Holyrood, with a population of 400 (28 miles); Harbor Main, at the head of Concep- tion Bay, Salmon Cove, and Brigus Junction (42 miles), whence we diverge to Brigus, a picturesque town on a lake between two hills. Brigus has about 2,000 inhabitants and an immense fishing fleet. A magnificent view is commanded from the summit of Thumb Peak, 600 ft. high, or from the bold headland of Rrif^ua Lnokfit ^t„+ f„., p„„^ Brigus is the fishing village of Bay Roberts, most of whose male in- 236 TRIPS FROM ST. JOHn's. habitants spend their summers fishing on the Labrador coast. Ten miles from Brigus Junction is Harbor Grace Junction. Harbor Grace (84 miles from St. John's) is the second town of importance in Newfoundland. It has a population of 7,000, and is an important trade center. Its harbor is roomy but much exposed to the sea, except close to the city wharves, where a long sand-bcach forms an excellent natural breakwater. The city is mostly built of wood, and not striking in ap- pearance. liy a fire, in 1 889, it lost its finest edifice, the Roman Catho- lic cathedral. From Harbor Grace a road runs across the peninsula 15 miles to the village of Heart's Content, already referred to, where the old Atlantic cable has its western terminus. The railroad runs on to Carbonear, 8 miles N. of Harbor Grace. This is a town of some- thmg over 2,000 inhabitants, and a great fishing center. From Harbor Grace Junction a railroad runs to the old town of Placcntm, on Tlacentia Bay, 84 miles from St. John's. Placentia was m old times an important French stronghold, and successfully resisted many British assaults. When the French claims were surrendered by the Treaty of Utrecht, the garrison and inhabitants of Placentia followed the French flag to Cape Breton. Under British occupation an impor- tant town speedily arose at Placentia, which has of late years gone rather to decay. Five miles from Placentia is Little Placentia, and 12 miles farther X. are the great lead-mines of La Manche. The S. coast of Newfoundland, from Cape Race to Cape Ray, may be visited by the steamer of the Newfoundland Coastal Steamship Co" which leaves St. John's on alternate Thursdays. The chief points of interest after rounding Cape Race are the little town of Trepassey, on Trepassey Harbor; the excessively dangerous piece of coast between Cape Pine and St. Shot's ; the town of St. Mary's, on St. Marv's Bay with the large village and splendid fishing river of SalmonieV, a few miles distant; Placentia, already referred to (fare, |4), and liurin (fare, |5), on the Burin Peninsula, forming the western boundary of Placentia Bay. The harbor of Burin is perfectly landlocked by cliffs 200 ft. in height, and is the best of all Newfoundland's admirable har- bors. The town has a large trade, and a population of 1,850. The surrounding scenery is magnificently bold, and the tower of Burin light- house is perched 430 ft. above the sea. ^ From Burin the steamer sails to St Pierre (fare, $6.50), a barren rock 4 miles an ess, lying under the flag of France. The town is largely built of stone, and is crowded together on its harbor at the E. of 'the .1 C5 18 TRIPS FROM ST. JOIIn's. 237 inland. It is garrisoned by a company of FrencI' soldiera, and is one of the mo.st pe(Miliar and thoroughly individuulizt-d towns in North America. It is famous alike for Its quaintness and its hospitality, its rare old brandies and ports, its ubiquitous codfish, and the motley crowds of fishermen-sailors that throng its narrow streets. The town is the landing-place of two of the transatlantic cables, which add to its population a large force of operators. The only buildings of any jirc- tension are Government House and the Roman Catholic church and convent. The best inns are the Pemion Hacala and Ho'd JoinviUe. Travelers who intend visiting St. Tierrc should make a point of read- ing an illustrated article on St. Pierre, by S. G. W. Benjamin, in the Century Magazine for June, 1884. Beyond St. Pierre lies the important fishing district of Fortune Bay, with the settlements of Fortune, Harbor Briton, and Belleorom, besides many tiny hamlets in the deep coves. Then come the broad inlet of Hermitage Bay, and the settlement of Ilermitag.' Cove, 9 miles from Harbor Briton. At the head of the bay are the rich salmon- waters of a sheltered inlet called the Bay of Despair, whence old Indian trails lead through the wilderness to the Exploits River and the lakes of the interior. From Hermitage Bay westward to Cape Ray the coast- line is almost straight, but fretted with innumerable small coves. The most important settlement is Burgeo, a village of 700 inhabitants, on one of the Little Burgeo Islands. On the mainland opposite are the salmon-fishcric» of Grandy's Brook. The next settlement is the fish- ing village of La Poile. Six miles beyond is Garia Bay, with several villa-"- on its shores; and then, 9 miles farther, the busy little port of ^^^- Thence the steamer passes Burnt Islands, and then Dead lb.., - ..-, named from their innumerable wrecks. These islands have beeii ... istrious by the heroic deeds of George Harvey, who dwelt on one o. them during the early part of the -century, and by his splendid skill and daring saved many hundreds of i. es. The houses in all this region seem largely built of wreckage, and furnished with the si)oils of ships. The next port of call for the western coastal steamer is the village of Channel, or Port au Basque, 4 miles W. of the Dead Islands. This is an important station for the transfer of cablegrams. It has a popu- lation of about 700, and famous halibut-fisheries in the vicinity. On every alternate trip the coastal steamer runs across the gulf to Sydney, Cape Breton (fare, |14). Around Cape Ray, 3 or 4 miles W. of 238 TSIP8 FROM PT. John's. I Ch«„„,.l lK.» the VMI .trotch of c«a,t !;„„„„ „» ,he We« or French Shore, the »ccM.. of the p.o»o„t un,,k,,«,„„e»«.s l,ol,ve«„ Franco and ^o-vf„„ndla„d. Owing .o ,l,o n„oe«ai„ties and difflouhie, of ^v" tiR u.a» , „l,,»o safe harbors are M-h separated, tl.e region i, little populated and le«» civilized. Yet it l,a, groat natural rcSourJ he n,o,, fert, e «od and fairest eli,.,»te in tl.e e,dony; .„d wl„.„ ,1, .dim c„ .,e, wlneh „„„ haras, it have been broush. to .,„,„e ,ati f "v »olut,on, it will doubtless beco„,e one of the ^..s. prosperous p' 1 of the „la„d^ The ehange tha, would bring most in,„, ediale and pe" manent beneit would be u„io„ with the (Confederation of Canada The French Shore. The Freneh shore is not likely to attract, for the present, anv but he n,„st adventurous tourists, and these will not be Lubled 1^ 1 a^k of sue. conveniences as highways, hotels, and regular eonnn.fni ..on The region may be visited by the fortnightly service of the .Newfoundland Coastal Steamship Co., by the frcp^cnt eoastin! sc o „ ers,or by the steamer Ilarlaw, fron, Halifax ani Cape lireton pT," The otal extent of the French shore, from Cape Ra„ N. to oLZm and down the N. E. coast to Cape S,. John, is a dist' nee of Z^t Three mdes back from Cape Ray is the lofty TMe M^nZVn^ t. ,„ hcjgh. w,.h the summits of Sugar-Loaf and Tolt Peak 'he neighborhood. Eighteen miles N. of Cape Kay is Cape An^uille and Little Codroy Rivers, with a scattered farming population. Xorth of oape Anguille is the great inlet called St. George's Bay runnin . 50 miles inland (fare to Bay St. Oeorge, from St. Jo,;,-,, m). .4™ "d Z and Ciabb s Brook, and some settlements of Micmacs. There are rich coal deposits in this region. From the head of the bav, wher Sis „ .eorge's River may be reached, by diffl..„lt trails, the strange dep .;! K ,.f' ■" ' ™° ''^ ' '" "'■'"'■■ '^^""^ «ters are rarely «een by white men, and are reputed to swarm with fish, as do Teir .hores with game. Toward the close of last century the re took place on Grand Pond a great battle between the remnants of th B„„thu .nd the mva,«ng Mie„i.aes from .Vova .Scotia, resulting i„ the ext rli nation of the Bieo.hucs. The northern gate of .St. Geok-s BavT, rpe TKIPfl FROM 8T. JOIIn's. 239 St. George. Twenty-five miles beyond is the mouth of the vast harbor called Port au Port, penetrating the land southward to within a n.ile of St. George's Hay. Next eomes the Bay of hlnmh, famous for its subhme scenery. The soil and climate here are adaj.tcd to agriculture and such minerals abound as marble, gypsum, and limestone. The villages scattered about the shore contain, in all, abo.it 2,(.00 inhabit- ants. At the head of the bay flows in the Hiimbn' River, 150 miles in length, and hennned about its mouth with towering cliffs of white lin.estone. About 25 n.ilcs N. of the Bay of Islands is Bonne Bay renowned for its herring-fisheries (fare from St. John's, $15). For the next VO odd miles the coast-line is little broken, till we come to the safe anchorages of the Bay of Ingrenechoix. Near its northern bou.idarv called Point Rieh, is the fishing village of Port Saunders. Some 16 nnles farther N. is the beautiful inlet of Bay St. John, at whose head flows in the almost unexplored Castors River, abounding with sahnon in the lower portion of its course. Then comes St. Margaret's Bay with the tiny hamlets of Old Ferolle and New Fcrolle. Then, in succession the inlets of Bay St. Genevieve, Bay St. liarbe, and Flower Cove, with' Its fishing settlement. Beyond are the famous north shore sealing grounds, where the coast is low and gras.sy ; and presently we enter the barren Strait of Belle Isle, 80 miles long by 12 in width, thron-ed with seals and swept by icy currents, separating Newfoundland from Labra- dor. The coasts and islands here are of the utmost desolation At times great herds of ice-bergs may be seen trailing slowlv through the strait. On the desolate Isle of Quirpon is a small sealing hamlet " At the eastern entrance to the strait is the great rock, 9 miles Ion- by 3 broad, called, in strange irony, Belle Me. On its wide circumference there is but one point where a landing can be effected, and here twice a year, are put ashore the stores for the lonely lighthouse-keeper, who has not even a bush on the whole island to cheer his solitude. He has brought from the mainland many boat-loads of earth, endeavorin- to form a garden-plot, but the soil is speedily swept clean off by the te^rri- ble winds. It is not surprising that these islands of Belle Isle and Quirpon were called, of old, the Isles of the Demons, and were repre- sented in the ancient maps as peopled with devils of various specie.« Ihe French explorers dared not land, save with crucifix in hand on these dreadful shores, n'here their ears were assailed with the clamor of demoniac voices. It was supposed, moreover, that the isles were the abode of a malignant and terrible species of griftin. There may have 1 ■ ii 240 TRIPfi FROM KT. JOHN 8. been some niftterial foundation for tlieac tales, an, even so late an tlio rtiminier of 187:5, the coiistd were ravaged by paeks of gigantic wolvert, who (K'voured a number of people and besieged the settlers in their cabins. A romantic legend connected with these islands has been made the subject of a poem called " Marguerite, or the Isle of Demons," by Mr. (loorgc Martin, of Montreal. On the expedition which sailed under Roberval, in 1512, to found a colony at (Quebec, were the Viceroy's ni''cc, the Lady Marguerite, and a yoimg courtier, her lover, whose suit was forbidden by Roberval. Their conduct seems to have enraged or seindalized the Viceroy, for he put his niece ashore, with her old nurse, on the isle of Demons, now Quirpcm. "The lover leaped from the ship and joined the women, and the fleet sailed away. Then the demons and the hosts of hell began their assaults on the forsaken trio, tearing about their Imt at night, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting them in the forest. But the penitent sinners were guarded by 'nvisible bands of saints, and kept from peril. After many months, wearied by these fiendish assaults, the lover died, and was soon fol- lowed by the nurse and the child. Long thereafter lived Marguerite alone, until finally a fishing-vessel ran in warily toward the smoke of her fire and rescued her, after two years of life among demons." The eastern portion of the French shore, from Cape Bald south- ward to Cape St. John, does not call for detailed mention here. There are fishing stations on the harbors of Griguet, Lunaire, Kt. Anthony ; the coaling station of Croc Harbor ; (Chouse Brook on White Bay ; and La Scie, 5 miles from Cape St. John. The most important waters are Hare Bay, the splendid landlocked harbor of Canada Bai/, and the magnificent sheet of water, 45 miles long by 15 wide, called White Bay. This bay has fine fisheries, and little fishing posts are scattered all about its shore. Halifax to Bridgewater by the Atlantic Coast. The steamer Cifi/ of St. John loaves Halifax every Monday evening, and connects with the Boston steamer at Yarmouth on Wednesday ; returning, leaves Yarmouth for Halifax every Thursday morning. The fare between Halifax and Yarmouth by this route is $5 ; return, $8. The steamer calls at Lunenburg, Liverpool, Lockport, Shelbourne, and Barrington. The steamer Bridgewater, of the Coastal Steam Packet Co., sails every Wednesday morning at 8 o'clock for HALIFAX TO BRTDHEWATER. 241 Lunenbtir- and Liverpool, retuniinj? Thursdnv morning. Kvorv Satur day n.ornniK sho sails for Mrid^ewator diroot, rc.tnrninK on Monday morning. I-'au-s: to Lononi.urK or I{ridKOwator, #2 ; rKurn, $3 To Liverpool, p ; round t.ip, ?r,. Meals are not ineluded in these pri.es After passinj; San.bro, the hoat r.ins some distance out to sea before turnin- westward, dreading the perilous San.bro Ledges. On the right lies Pennant Hay, beyon.l whieh is Mars Head, near the seene of the wreck of the S. S. Ai/nnUr in 187H, by which no fewer than y.m persons perishe.l. Here also were wrecked the British war-ships North Helena, and Mars, fron. whhh latter ship it takes its name. Next we pass the broad n.outh of the lovely Si. MarflurcCH B,u,, in whose shel- tered recesses lies the pleasant sunnner resort of the same name reached by stage from Halifax. There are several little Bettieu.ents scattered aro.n.,l the shores of this beautiful water, the n.ost important of which is Hubbard's Cove. From the head of the bay there is a pleasant canoe route, with short portages, across the province to the waters of the Avon and Minas Hasin, with f^ood fishing almost all the way. Beyond St. Margaret's Bay we enter the mouth" of another bay even more capacious than that we have just left, and only second to it for roniantic beauty. In some weathers the steamer sails in to c.mmu- nieatc with the towns of Chester and Mahone Bay, whose harbors are somewhat shoal for large vessels; but more usually she sails across the mouth in the direction of Cape La Have, leaving these towns to be served by the stage-coaches. Chester is 45 miles by stage from Hall- lax ; 40 miles by similar conveyance from Windsor. In summer it is one of the most delightful of watering-places, fre.,«ented by champing society from Halifax and from the Southern States; but in winter it has earned for itself the pathetic sobriquet of " Chester-God-help-us " The town has a couple of comfortable hotels (of which the Lovett House IS the best), and about 600 inhabitants of its own. Its scenery is delicious, its climate perfection ; and one mav row and paddle and sad, catch cod or flounders or lobsters, go in swimming, or loaf and invite his soul, as agreeably at Chester as anywhere else one can think of, in Nova Scotia at least. A delightful excursion from Chester is to Mount Aspotogan, from whose summit one gets a magnificent view Withm easy reach of Chester, beyond Chester Basin, is the unrivaled salmon-water of Gokl River, frequented also by splendid sea-trout All along the drive one has endlessly changing views of Mahone Bay\ countless islands, on some of which are cozv little Dutch 16 cozy farms. In 24^ HALIFAX TO BKIDGEWAl EE. among these islands, in the summer of 1813, the American privateer Young Teaser was chased by two British war-ships. When the Ameri- c>in ship was utterly defeated, her officers blew her up rather than sur- render, and every man on board perished. The largest of the islands in the bay is Big Tancook, with a population of 540. The most inter- esting is Oak Island, one of the best accredited of the innumerable claimants to the honor of having served as a hiding-place for the treasures of Captain Kidd. Treasure-seekers, sinkiiig pits on the island, have found a host of mysteries but no money. Shafts have been dug several hundred feet, through layers of cut-stone and hewn timbers, strange grasses from the tropics, charcoal, putty, and care- fully jointed planks. A great deal of capital has been invested in the effort either to find the treasure or to solve the mystery of these under- ground works ; but at length the toilers came upon great stone drains communicating with the sea, which admitted such floods of water that their pumps could not cope with it ; and the diggings have been aban- doned. The little town of Mahone Bat/ is less attractive to summer visitors than Chester, but is far more business-like and prosperous. It is engaged in the fisheries, and in building small ships for coasting trade. It has a population of about 1,000. Before reaching Cape La Have the steamer turns into a fair and sheltered haven called by the Indians Malagash, or " Milky," from the soft whiteness of its surf, and draws up to the wharves of liUnen- burg. This is a thriving German town of 5,000 inhabitants, with large ship-building and mining interests, and an extensive trade in fish with West Indian ports. The town occupies a steep slope, and shows up most effectively as one approaches it from the sea. Its distance by water from Halifax is 45 miles, and its chief hotel is Kiny^s. The town and county of Lunenburg were settled in 1*753 by Germans and Swiss, and the German language and German customs still prevail in the district. We see women working in the fields like men, and cows yoked with oxen to do the hauling and the plowing. The great point of interest in the neighborhood of Lunenburg is the peninsula of Ovens Head, distant about 10 miles. On this peninsula has been ob- tained, by washings, a large yield of gold. The place is remarkable for the strange caverns in its sea-face, called the '* Ovpns,''^ whence it derives its name. These penetrate the cliffs for several hundred feet, and into their yawning jaws the great seas roar terrifically. There are, not unnaturally, many curious legends and traditions connected with the HALIFAX TO BRIDGEWATER. 243 Ovens, the most remarkable— and least credible— of which is to the eifect that once an Indian, being swept by wind and current into the largest aperture, was sucked into the bowels of the earth, to reappear not seriously the worse for his astounding adventure, amon- the count' less isles of Tusket, at the S. W. en.l of the peninsula. After roundin- the well-named headland of Point Enra/re, the steamer enters the fine estuary of the La Have Rioer, and ascends it, on certain trips 18 miles to the town of Bridgewater. The shores of La Have are rich in his' tory, the district having been an important center of Acadian coloniza- tion. Here the chivalrous knight of Jerusalem, Isaac de Razillv had his headquarters, and here he died, untimely, in 1637, to the incalculable loss of Acadie. Fort La Ileve was the scene of many a well-fought battle between French and English or \ew-Englandei-s, and the lover of anti- quarian research will find the neighborhood a fertile field for his work. The sail up the La Have is very beautiful, and the town of Bridgewater is most fortunate in its situation. At the census of 1881 it had a population of 1,000, but it is growing since the opening of the Nova Scotia Central Railway, which has its offices and works at Bridge- water. Its chief business is the lumber-trade, and its great saw-Miil s are a picturesque feature of the landscape. The chief hotel is the Fairview, $1.50 per day. At this point, or at Lunenburg, the traveler who is not going on down the coast takes the railway across the prov- ince to Middleton, on the Dominion Atlantic Ky. .' Bridgewater to Yarmouth. After leaving Bridgewater the boat rounds Cape La Have, and, after a run of 9 miles from the cape, passes the mouth of Port'lHod- way, a deep inlet, on which stands a lumbering village of the saine name, with some 500 inhabitants. There is a good deal of shin-build- ing at this little town, which often goes by the name of Mill Village. Leaving behind Coffin's Island, the boat rounds into Liverpool Ba>i, a fine harbor with well-peopled shores. At its head flows in the Liverpool River, the outlet of the beautiful Lake Romgnol, the largest lake of Nova F,cotia. The name of this lake is the old name of the harbor, given it by De Monts, in 1604, in honor of a French captain who.-e ship he had confiscated for trading in the harbor without authority— which must have seemed to the unhappy c.«-pt.'iin a somewhat barren compensation. At the mouth of the Liverpool River, on a rocky shore 244 BRIDGEWATER TO YARMOUTH. stands the pretty and well-kept town of Liverpool, with a popula- tion of nearly 5,000 and a thriving trade. liumbering, fishing, and ship- building, the stand-byp of all this eoast, are the chief support of Liver- pool, but she is also developing some manufacturing interests, in the lines of machinery, leather, matches, and iron-castings. The chief liotel is a home-like house, called " The Village Gieen." The town is a pleasant jilace to visit ir^ summer, with some agreeable society, and fine trout-fi.shing in the surrounding waters — whose names are legion. During the War of 1812 Liverpool was a privateering center, and her ships preyed fiercely and successfully on American commerce. In days more ancient, whose history comes down to us with a somewhat more questionable accuracy, the site of Liverpool was the realm of a mighty and malignant sorceress, who was righteously, if ungallantly, attacked by the Micmac demigod (Jluskap, already re- ferred to, and torn to pieces, after a combat which the stars stood still to witness. Leaving Liverpool Bay, the boat passes the bay and settlement of Port Mouton, so named by De Monts in 1604. De Monts was evident- ly impressed by Champlain's lack of imagination and tendency to im- mortalize the members of his family and two or three favorite saints in bestowing names, for his nomenclature is always fresh and striking. The harbor in question received its title from the circumstance that here a sheep jumped overboard and was drowned. This may seem to us a small matter, but at that time and place a sheep was worth con- sidering, and its loss called for commemoration. Leaving out of sight Fort Mouton, the boat passes, at some distance, a number of small fish- ing villages, and comes to the thriving little town of Lockeport, on Locke's Island, 37 miles from Shelburne. This town has a populatioa of 1,918, and is actively engaged in tlie West India trade and in fishing on the Grand Baidis. From Lockeport the steamer crosses the inlets of Green Harbor and Jordan River, with their settlements seen in the dis- tance ; passes Bony's and Government Points, and runs close to the striped black-and-white tower of Cape Roseway light. Then the course turns sharply to the N. E., and the boat steams up the noble expanse of Shdburne Harbor, so perfect in its freedom from winds and cur- rents that it finds its bane in its very perfection, and freezes solid dur- ing the winter as if it were a fresh-water lake. Shelburne is a little town, with its 2,056 inhabitants, but it has a romantic history. In a night it grew to a great city, and again in a BRIDGEWATER TO YARMOUTH. 245 day it fell away to a quiet hamlet, because it had no root in a rich sur- roundinq country. The matchless harbor attracted, in 1783, no fewer than 12,000 of the United Empire Loyalists in their flight from the new republic. Giovernor Parr came in with a fleet, and his batteries saluted the city of Shelburne, which had sprung up like a dream, throwing Halifax into utter insignificance. But like a dream the city melted, for it had nothing on which to support itself. The sealed har bor during the winter, was discouraging. The country around was a wilderness, and not one of the sort that could be made to blossom like the rose. Two and a half millions were sunk in founding the city boon all the money was gone, and then the people went too-some back to the United States, some to more hopeful settlements; and Shelburne was left with a population of 400-and the negro suburb of B.rchtown ! Even now the town, with a measure of returning pros- perity, IS ludicrously suggestive of a very small boy masqueradin- in the garments of a very large grandfather. There are remnants how- ever, of the old loyalist stock in shrunken Shelburne, making society there very pleasant, if not extensive. The chief hotel is the Shelburne House. Sailing out of Shelburne Harbor the steamer rounds Cape Roseway and turmng eastward passes Negro Island, behind which lies the moutli of the river Clyde. The next point of interest is the broad water of I'ort Latour, on whose shores may still be seen the remains of Claude de a four's fort. In the distance, just before rounding the low cane ciilled Baccaro Point, is visible the village of Port Latour. Bevond the point lies Cape Sable Island, 7 miles long by 3 in extmiie width, with about 1,700 inhabitants. The island was occupied of old l?y the Acadians, who in 1758 were carried awav to Halifax after which, m the course of a quarter-century, their places were fill'ed bv loyalists from New England, a vigorous stock. The extreme southern pomt of the island is the ill-famed Cape Sable, from whose conspicuous white sands comes the name.* The currents and fogs and ledges off this point have given Cape Sable its sinister reputation, well justified by the numerous wrecks of which it has been the author-chief of which may be mentioned that of the ocean steamer Hungarian. Off the cape have taken place some important sea-fights, notably that in which, in 17o0, the French ship St. Francis was aptured by the British ship rm m % j r'' 1 * (Jap aux Sables, or the Cape of Sands. 246 BRIDGEWATKR TO YARMOUTH. Albany; and that in 1812, when the American ship Yankee destroyed the British ship Royal Bounty. Between the long shores of Bacoaro and Cape Sable Island is the Barr'myton FaHsayc, up which the boat runs 12 miles to the busy fish- ing settlement of BarrinjS^toii, with a population of about l,fiOO. The district was settled in 1763 by immigrants from Cape Cod, who were joined later on by loyalist refugees from the same section of the republic. A few miles from Barrington lie the Sabimm and Great Pubnico Lakes. Trom Barrington the steamer runs out by the West Passage to the open Atlantic, passes Shag Harbor and Bon Portage hland, and at a distance the outlying rocks of Seal Island and Blonde Rock, notorious respectively for the wrecks of the steamship Colum- bia and the British frigate Blonde. The boat's course is now north- west. She passes the mouth of Pubnico Harbor, where lies the pros- perous French town of Pubnico^ with a population of nearly 3,000 and a large fishing fleet. Argyle, with a population of 750, is near by, on Abuptic Harbor. After crossing the mouth of the harbor, and of Tusket River, we enter the myriad islanded waters of Tusket Archi- pelago. The scene is strangely beautiful. The islands are of every shape and size, rising boldly out of ocean depths. They stand out from the coast, unsheltered by beach or promontory, and the tides and storms sweep furiously through the narrow but profound passages aat sunder them. Some of them are named, but most are nameless. A fanciful explorer might imagine he discovered the origin of the Tusket Islands in the innumerable Tusket Lakes, clustered about the course of the Tusket River. These lakes are of all shapes and sizes, and look like spots whence patches of land were pulled up and cast into the sea to form islands. It is strange that the Micmac genius has not invented a tradition to such effect. These Tusket Lakes, it may be said, offer some of the best trout and salmon fishing of the province. After leav- ing the Tuskets Jebogue Point is rounded, and the steamer enters the estuary of Yarmouth River and ascends the narrow channel to the Yarmouth wharves. Yarmouth. The chief hotels of Yarmouth are the Queen, Grand, and Lome. Liv- ery charges are very moderate, and according to agreement. Fare by steamer : Yarmouth to Boston, !^5 ; round trip, $8 ; Yarmouth to St. John, by Western Counties Railway, |3.40 ; to Middleton, |3.25 ; to Halifax (rail), |6 ; (boat), >i?5. The steamer ^l/(o/trt leaves Yarmouth for St. John every Monday and Thursday, at 4 p. m., returning Tuesday and YARMOUTH. 247 Friday evenings. The Boston steamers leave Yarmouth, during the sunimor season, on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday even- ings, on arrival of Halifax train; leave Boston Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday at 12 noon. During July and Augiist they make five trips a week each way. Fare from Halifax to Boston via Yar- mouth, IT.nO; round trip, $14. The unlimited ticket, allowing one to stop ofi at any place or places along the way, is $9.50. The prominence attained by Yarmouth as a shipping port is rather in spite of than by reason of her harbor, which is straitened and tide-vexed, and troublesome to ascend. Hut she has triumphed brilliantly over these disadvantages, and now ranks fourth among Cana- dian ship-owning ports. St. John, Montreal, and Windsor head the list. The city is developing its harbor, adding steamers to its sailing fleets, and keeping abreast of modern movements. Lately it has shown excellent pluck in inaugurating a first-class steamship communication with Boston, affording, by means of two fine new Clyde built steamers, the Boston and the Yarmouth, a swift and pleasant route to the New England capital. The Boston is one of the fastest ships of her size afloat. Yarmouth has woolen-mills, foundries, and a canvas-factory, and so is not wholly dependent upon her fishing interests. She has many handsome private residences, surrounded by charming and well- kept grounds; and she is noted for the neatness and luxuriance of her numerous hedges. Through the hottest months qF summer the lawns and trees of Yarmouth, and the blossoms of her tasteful gar- dens, preserve a spring-like freshness under the sott touches of the Atlantic mists. This bright and hospitable little city might almost be called a colony of ship-Captains. From Halifax eastward. The steamers Fastnet and City of Ghent rim eastward from Halifax along the coast to and through the Strait of Canso. Places on the strait are more conveniently and regularly reached by the rail route already described, and along this portion of the Atlantic coast there are few points of interest till we come to the great Bay cf Chedabucto, and the little but sanguine town of Canso at its mouth. Intermediate points, such as Chezzetcook, Musquodoboit Harbor, Jeddore, Ship Har- bor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, St. Mary's, and Sherbrooke, are best reached by stage from Halifax. Chezzetcook is interesting as a thoroughly typical Acadian settlement, on which time and progress work no cliangos. Its quaint people afford a rich Held for observation and I i ,v 248 FROM HALIFAX EASTWARD. material for any number of racy genre pictures. Musquodoboit is in- tercsting for its gold-niinos, trout, and salmon. Jeddore has about 2,000 inhabitants, occupied in lumbering and fishing. The whole region is full of trout waters. Near Ship Harbor is a noble lake of the same name. Tangier, 60 miles from Halifax, is a gold-mining center on the Tangier River, or, as the Indians call it, Ahmagopakegoek, which means "Tumbling over the Rooks." Twenty miles beyond, at the head of the fine inlet called Sheet Harbor, is a si ■; . village of the same name, near which flow in the noted salmon-sc: , ailed Middle and ^'orth Rivers. Sherbrooke is on St. Mary's Bay, the mouth of the important stream called ,SY. Mary's River. This is one of the finest salmon- waters in the province, the fish running almost as large as those of the Restigouche ; and it is not less famous for its trout. Within a radius of 10 or 12 miles are the equally noted waters (with salmon, ti'out, and sea-trout running up to five and six pounds) of the Gegoggin, Gaspereaux, and Indian Rivers, whose pools and runs will surely satisfy the most exacting angler. Canso is on Chedabucto Bay, 32 miles S. E. of Guysborough. It has a population of about l,r)00, and is the western terminus of several of the Atlantic cables, whose operators give the town some pleasant society. Near this point a company of Canadian and American capital- ists is proposing to erect a great city, to be called the Terminal City, whence fast steamers are to traverse the Atlantic and lightning ex- presses rush westward. This scheme is pretty fully developed, and may perhaps be carried out, in which case the splendid Bay of Cheda- bucto would emerge from its present obscurity. Th. town of Guys- borough is described in another place. From Halifax to Yarmouth by the Dominion Atlantic Railway. The fare from Halifax to St. John by this route is $5.80 ; to Bos- ton, via Yarmouth, $7.50 ; to Yarmouth, |6 ; to Annapolw, $3.80 ; to Bridgewater, via Middleton and Nova Scotia Central R. R., $4.75 ; to KentviUe, $2.15; IVolfviUe, $1.95 -, Windsor, $1.38. The .steamboat express leaves Halifax in the morning and runs through to Yarmouth in about seven and a half hours, making the time between Halifax and Boston only twenty-three hours in all. An express leaves Halifax for Kentville at three in the afternoon. Under its new management the FROM HALIFAX TO YARMOUTH BY RAIL. 249 Dominion Atlantic Ry. has become a very attractive road to travel over. Road-bed and rolhng-stock have been Improved and handsome parlor- cars added to the fast steamer express, known as the " Flying Blnenose " The railway Is now thoroughly worthy of the country it 'traverses ' ' From Halifax to IVMor Jnnefion the train run.; over the rails of he Intercolonial by a route already described; and Bedford Basin takes on new phases of beauty in the fresh light of the morning Three miles beyond Windsor Junction is the station of Beaver Bank and 10 nnes farther is Mount Uniacke, the seat of the Uniacke estatJ and of valuable gold-mines. The settlement lies between two small rock-bound akes Another 10 miles brl :gs us to the picturesque set- vaZ ^'''.''"••^''"""' ^'-'''^'^ -^'^^ - ^«'-oe-sion of winding hills and val k^s. This was once a very flourishing village, with a pulp-mill and argelun^benng interests, and took its name from its founder a wealthy German of high birth, with the failure of whose business came an end the prosperity of the village. The fine Ellershausen Place is beautifully situated at the head of a romantic glen, .lown which i grounds extend. A few miles inland from Ellershouse rises Anioise muntarn (pronounced Aidice), whose summit is the highest point in the proymce. A short distance beyond the village the train crosses the 8 Crm. /.em. which is at this point a picturesque stream, with the . uns of a mill dinging to its rocky banks. The St. Croix is the outlet of the famous Fonhook Lakes, with fine scenery and excellent trout- Ovving to their comparative inaccessibility these waters are not ovcr- ftshed and they will well repay a visit by e.noe. Three miles from Ellershouse is ^ewport Station, the center of a fertile farming district JVcwpoit he populous agricultural villages, reached by stage. Three miles beyond Newport we pass the way station of Three-Mile Plains iet 3 miles farther and we run out upon the rich marshes between the ^ . Croix and Avon, .weep round the grassy hill of For( Edward, and run mto the excessively unpretentious station of the town of Windsor Windsor is a wealthy little town 46 miles from Halifax, with a population, according to the census of 1891, of 2,90(», but now esti niated at something over 3,000. Its shipping is enoimous, and it ranks a he third ship-owning port in Canada. It is largely interested in the South American trade, and ships great quantities of white and hlue piaster from the Wentworth and other quarries to Boston, New York ■) 1 t \ 250 WINDSOR. iiiid riiiliulclpliia. In tlio lU'i^hhorliood arc the Rold-iiiiiios of Uawthti^ liiti'ly opt lu'tl and proviuj^ very prodiK-livc. Windsor lias also larj^o fottoii, i"urnit\iro, and Icatlu'r farlorics, licsldcs an I'xtciiHivc iron-foun- dry. Its only publio bnildin^s of importance art' the new (?onrt-Ilouso niid the handsome new I'onf-OJ/iW ; Itnt the plain dark pile of Kiiik'n College, though without arehiteetunil |)i'etension, is impressive hy rea- son of its eommandinji site. As seen from the station, Windsor is not striking. .Many of the buildings in Water St., the main business thor- oughfare, are old and dingy ; but the street is rapidly undergoing a reno- vation in this respect, and the shops are beginning to wear a new face. The street itself is usually either muddy or dusty, and tlie visitor who has heard of the beauty of Windsor should lose no time in getting to the toj) of one of the rounded hills on which the town is built. From the top of Ftrn/ Hill, either when the tide is in, or at sunset, when the vast abyss of the empty channel glows like polished copper about the dark piers and wharves and black hulls of straiulcd ships, the scene is one to satisfy the titmost expectations. Quite dilfercnt but ctpially superb is the view from the loftier hill-top occupied by the Tennis Courts, whose i)avilion roof affords a post of vantage. The streets of the town run up and down hill and in unexpected directions, and are well adorned with sluidc-trccs. Behind the lower end of the town flows in the St. Croix, at this point a groat tidal stream navigable for ocean ships to the wharves of Wentworth. The Avon Jiivcr, which forms the harbor of Windsor, is a large tidal stream emptying into the liasin of Miiuis, I'i miles below the town. At high water it is like an iidand sea, amply deep for any ship afloat ; and with the flood- title come shijis, and yachts, and tugs, and steamers, flocking to the ^\harvcs of Windsor. At low tide it is but a rivulet, and fairly justi- fles the gibes of Charles Dudley Warner, who writes of the Avon aa follows : " I never knew before how nnich water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. I should think it would be ctmfusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and then the other, and then vanishes altogether," The ancient name of Windsor was Piziquid, meaning " The Junction of the Waters." Here stood a populous and prosperous Acadian set- tlement, till the great banishment in 1765. After the lands of the Acadians had lain for some years vacant, settlers from Massachusetts and Rhode Island were brought in to occupy the townships of Newport FROM HALIFAX TO YAItMOUTH BY RAIL. 251 an.l Kal.n<,„tl., whil,. WlndHm- itsdf was hIIoIKmI t,. .otlii,,.. Uriti^h oHicMTS, uixl l.miine one of t»io Hocial (M'utorfl of the provi..,., " Kinr-'H ( oII.-Ko, tlu. oldest of |.:nKl.u.,l',s c„|<.„ial nniv.rHiticM, was foun.lo.l in I71X., „„ Oxford iimmIcIh, an.l was f^'ivrn a royal vhnrWv in lH(>2 It ih uiHl.T tlu, patrona-.. of tl.c Arol.hlMl.op (,f CuuWvUuvy, an.l is a Clnncl, of Kn-lan.l institution, though f.ve to all .liMion.inationH aliko. If n-I,.. hratcMl Its ei-ntcnary hiHt year; and, after many vicissitudes, ,.nt..ml on an cni ..f n^newnl prosperity under the n.ana-e.nent of the pn-sent prosuh-nt, Dr. Willets. Some of the most .listiufruished sons of Caua.la have been educated at King's, on whose roll of g.a.h.ates are s.ieh names as those of Jud^.e Haliburt.m ("Sam Slick "), Sir .I.,hn In-dis an.l Sir l-'enwick Willia.ns. At one corner of the eoll..ge p,.op..rty is ihi' Co(l<f;w(, SWioof, a prosperous institution, an.l adjoining them on the E., ,m a n.omy hillsid.', are the groun.ls and buildings of " h;f,,c/nll " the Mcwly-established " Church School for (iirls." A favorite walk U from town out to the college woo.ls, through a willowe.l avenue that crosses the ravine of the .lisuse.l plaster-.p.arries, an.l past the gate- house of Cfi/fon, the ol.l Ilaliburfm estate where "Sam Slick " used to live. This hist..ric estate, with its delightful ol.l country-h.,usp em- bowered in ancient trees, no longer belongs t., the Ilaliburton family but IS always known as the "Sam Slick House." The chief hot..|s of Wmds.,r are the ncwiy-fitted-up and excellently e.piippe.l Du(^h-in Hotel (once the Clifton House), whose roomy structure is the most con- spicuous object near the atation ; and the Victoria (Doran's), an old and popular house, now undergoing extensive improvements which will bring It quite up to the re.juirements of the day. Am.mg the other hotels may be mentioned Mounceh and the Somerset Home. A cab or two is usually in atten.lance at the station, and carries travelers to the hotels or points in town for 25 cents. The livery charges <,f the establish- ments furnishing these cab.s (Townshend's, Jenkins's, and Smith's stables) are very moderate. Windsor to Parrsboro and St. John, by Boat. The steamers of the St. John and Minas Basin Line run between Windsor and St. John, calling at Hantsport, Kingnport, Parrsboro and Spencer\ Mand. The times of departure and arrival change daily with the tide, and are announced monthly in the Halifax, Windsor, and St. John papers. The fare to St. John is $2.75 ; return. $4, includinrr meals. The fare to Parrsboro is $1.50 ; return, $3. J ili 252 WIND80R TO l'AIiK8BuKO AND 8T. JOHN. The run down to the Avon's mouth with the tide is charnunR in fine weather. The ample river can by no strotoli of fancy be called blue ; but blueness is something of which we have by this time prown well-nigh surfeited. The shores arc a succession of rich, rolling hills, set with pr<)S|)erous villages ; for the soil of this region is of boundless fertil- ity. As we run out of the Avon we pass on oiu' left a high bluff, whose face is a mine of fossils and specimens to delight the min('raU)gist. As we cross the 8v,aying expanse of M'uhih Jiaaiii, the ponderous front of B'omidon (described in later pages) is the dominating object, dwarfing the dark brows of rival promontories, and recalling many a romantic tradition. Running past its foot, we find that this giant loses none of his impressivoness on close inspection. Even while we are in broad sunshine, the dark sunnnit towering above may be withdrawn f lom view, wrapped in the fo^'s that roll over it from Fundy. At this point we connnand a magnificent view up the Basin, past tlie quaint masses of Fire Mmuh^ up CoJmpnd Bail, to the very moutli of the Shubmacadie River, while far behind lies the meadow of Grand Pre. From Blomi- don we run across the mouth of the Basin to the village of Parrsboro, on a small river at whose mouth the steamer stops. As we make fast to the mossy timbers of the pier, our view out into the Bay of Fundy is cut off by the near heights of Partridge Inland, an abrupt and somber- wooded hill connected with the mainland by a gravel beach. This island is the center of many Gluskilp legends, and here took place Ghiskilp's famous carousal with the divine Kit-poose-ee-a-goo-no, at which a whole whale was eaten. At Parrsboro Pier, as ihe landing is called, there are admirable beaches, and there stands a pleasant lodging-house close to the head of the wharf, with a home-like air very attractive to the summer idler. Parrsboro itself is reached by a drive of about a mile and a half from the pier. There are several small hotels, of which the most com- fortable is the Grand Central. The chief business of Parrsboro, sup- porting a population of something over 1,000, is the shipping of lum- ber. It is the best center from which to reach the wild back country of Cumberland County, famous for its moose and bears, and its com- paratively virgin fishing-waters. Guides may be hired in the town. A run of 32 miles by rail will enable one to visit the prosperous coal- mining town of Springhill, a thoroughly typical coal town. Parrs- boro lies, by water, just 30 miles from Windsor. Delightful drives may be taken in the neighborhood, to Apple River, Five Islands, and the sublime sea-scapes of Advocate Harbor and Cape d'' Or, in fine ; but l-nigh with ft'itil- whose . As mt of arting lantic none broad view, nt we ilea of icadie ilomi- boro, ast to iintly mber- island ikap's whole re are to tlie mrtier ihalf com- , sup- ■ lura- untry i com- town. coal- i'arrs- Irives ?, and i' •■ UUi WTNDROR TO PAFJRSUORo axD ST. JOKN. 253 Fimii PariHlM.i.) pier tlic bout nitis out into t\w Hay of Fuiuly on tl.o bosom of a tivn„.|„lo„.s tid.^, tluit nm'^ bc-twcon Ca/,< Sharp nn<l IJIo.ni,!.,,, at tlio rati, of 8 (.r \) miles hm hour. Soon wr ,,asH, •Ml our loft, the stnuijrc and impressive piomontorv of ('a/,c Snlii wims.' tnininul dili; about Urn ft. intrli, «, us to"l.avo bmi lifer' ally Hplit away from the main mass, aii.l now rises out of ihc s.-etli- in- ti(l..s in lonely Kran.leur. A>i«rr'« /.s/und is passed about a <lozen n.il,.s from ("ape Split, and then in the distanee loom the ^'lant outlines of ('„f„ .POr, with (\,j,r f'/uf/nw/o far to the N. Per- haps the most interesting poir.t vv(> pass is the lofty elilf-irt island called Isle Haute, in the middle of the bay. The i,-land is less than two miles it. len-th, and its apparently inaeeossible walls are JJr.O feet in hel-ht. On its top is a farm, inhabited an<l eultivated by a family for whom isolation seems to have no terrors. From Isle Haute t<. St John is a run of from ()() to 75 miles, aeeordiu.' to weather and ti,: The eourse is down the open bav, and the shores are too far oil" to be of interest. if » Windsor to Grand Pr6. The train runs slowly through tlu^ baek yards of Windsor to the Avon, and erosses the river on a fine iron brid-e, parallel to which runs the li-ht and cmceful structure of the new passen-er bridge. Then conies the p.-ctty settlement of Falmouth, 1 .1 miles from Windsor sta- tion. The next stop is at Ilantsport, 7 miles fro.n Windsor. This 18 a neat and thrivin- town, and does an immense amount of ship-build- mg. It is beginning to develop manufacturing interests, and has "ood freestone (p.arries in the vicinity. The houses are small, but wear an air of comfort. From this point onward to Avonpori the railroad fol- lows the banks of the Avon, and one gets noble views from the ear wmdows, across the wide Avon, and Minas IJasin, toward the blue line of the Parrsboro shore, with fine glimpses of the mighty shoulder of Blomidoii. Presently this great pronu.ntory comes into full view, and thenceforth remains the commanding feature of the landscape for many miles, until Port Williams is left behind. " This is that black rock bastion, l)ase(l in surge, Pregnant vvitli agate and with amethyst, Whose foot the tides of storied Minas scourge, Whose top austere withdraws into its mist. 254 WINDSOR TO GRAND PRE. " Thin in that nncioiit cupe of tears and ntorm, Whosf towel lii}j front inviolable frowns v O'er vales Evangeline and love keep warm— Wliose fame thy song, O tender singer, crowns. "Yonder, acrosH these reeling fields of foam, Came the sad threat of tlie avenging sliips. What profit now to know if jtist the doom, " Though harsh! The streaming eyes, the praying lips. The shadow of inextinguishable pain, The poet's deathless music— these remain! " Avonport is at the mouth of the Avon, 5 miles from Hantsport, 58 miles from Halifax. Two miles beyond we cross the storied Gaspe- reaux at its mouth, and reach the village of Hortou Landing. From this point, on to beyond Wolfville, we are in the actual " Land of Evangeline." The great body of the Acadian settlement was nearer llorton Landing than to the station of Grand Pre, 1 mile farther on. Close to Horton Landing is the little creek at whose mouth the unhappy Acadians were embarked for exile. At Horton Landing is a pleasant little half hotel, half country-house, by name Dttncdm Cottage ; and visitors may spend some sunmier weeks here very pleasantly, roaming the breezy " dikes," bathing on the beaches of Long Island, or exploring the lovely valley of the Gaspercaux. Close to J)unedin Cottage is Patterson's Agricultural and Business School, where boys are taught farming, with other useful knowledge. Grand Pre itself, from whose station we see close at hand a row of old Acadian willows, and on the hill-side a few gaunt Acadian poplars and gnarled Acadian apple-trees, can hardly be called a village. It is merely a thicker clustering of the fruitful farms and orchards, and ample farm-houses, that make so cheerful the face of all this landscape. Near the station is a great tree by whose foot may be traced the foundatiotis of the Acadian Parish Church. The neighborhood is a delightful one to visit, for many gentlemen from Halifax and other centers have farms here, where they make their summer residence. The visitor who wishes to spend some time in this neighborhood and do thoroughly the whole district over which Longfellow has cast the colored light of romance, will find it most convenient to make his headquarters at Wolfville, 3 miles beyond Grand Pr6, whence the whole region is accessible by pleasant carriage-drives. lort, 58 iaspe- Fiom ind of uearei" farther uth the ng is a ottat/e ; santly, Island, unedin ?e boys ) itself, allows, icadian thicker tioujses, station of the visit, s here, shes to 1 whole mance, rville, ible by 1 .( . f Cape Split, WINDSOR TO GRAND PRE. THE EXPULSION OF THE ACADIANS. 255 It is to be presumed that the tourist will go through this region with an open volume of "Evangeline" in his hand, or at least with a copy of Longfellow in his pocket. Hence, extended quotations from the noble and touching poem, which has immortalized this region and crystallized in men's minds a somewhat mistaken view of the tragedy here enacted, might be considered superfluous. Nevertheless we ap- pend one extract, in which the Acadian village is inimitably described: " In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pre Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward Giving the village its name, and pastiue to flocks without number Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labor incessant Shut out the turbulent tides; but at certain seasons the flood-gates Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows \Ve8t and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and com-flelds Spreading afar and unfenced o'er the plain; and away to the northward Blomidon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountains Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended There, m the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian village Strongly built were the houses, with frames of oak and of chestnut Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries' Thatched were the roofs,with dormer-windows; and gables projecting Over the basement below protected and shaded the doorway There in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirties Scarlet and blue and green, with distaffs spinning the golden Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy shuttles within doors Mingled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the maidens Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, and the children Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to ble^s them Reverend walked he among them; and up rose matrons and maidens Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate welcome Then came the laboieis home from the field, and serenely the sun sank Down to his rest, and twilight prevailed. Anon from the belfry Softly the Angelas sounded, and over the roofs of the ^■illage Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment, inus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers- Dwelt in the love of God and of man. Alike were they free from Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windows-" But then- dwellings were open a^ day and the hearts of the owners- There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance " ' :-i 256 WINDSOR TO GRAND PRE. The pathos jind pppcal of the Acadian story, as told by Longfellow, should not be allowed to blind us to the fact thn^ ^he pitiful fate of the Acadians was a measure of absolutely necessary justice. In spite of the most earnest pleadings, the frankest threatenings, and forty years of unparalleled forbearance, exercised long after forbearance had ceased to be a virtue, the Acadians persisted in a deadly enmity to a government whose subjects they unquestionably were. They refused to allow themselves to be considered as other than enemies, and not only did they engage, along with the savages, in occasional bloody raids upon the English settlements, but their presence in the colony made a point of almost fatal weakness in its defenses, at a time when England was engaged in what was practically a life-and-aeath struggle with her great antagonist. The indulgence of the English Government was repaid by the Acadians with hatred, and sometimes with the seal ping-knife. Undoubtedly these people believed they were acting aright. Iljid they been left to themselves, they would have become, in the course of a generation, loyal and contented subjects. But they were made the tools of French intrigue. From Quebec every effort was continually put forth to keep alive their bitterness against their con- querors, and their belief that Acadia would once more be brought be- neath the sway of France. When they began to show signs of a desire to accept the situation, and when persuasion on the part of Quebec became ineffectual, then threats were employed, and they were menaced with the tomahawks of the savages. The authorities at Quebec had no scruples. Sometimes violence was resorted to, and the exile of the Acadians was begun by Le Loutre before the English had thought of it. Hundreds of Acadians, who were becoming reconciled to English rule, were forced by Le Loutre to move into French territory, where they suffered unbounded hardships. Their homes were burned behind them, and whole villages were thus depopulated, in obedience to a heartless policy. The Acadians were a simple and ignorant people, easily led by their superiors, and hence on a final estimate they must be regarded as more sinned against than sinning. But those who wrought their ruin and deserved their curse were not the English, but their own countrymen. The removal of the Grand Pre Acadians was accomplished with combined firmness and gentleness by Colon ' Win- slow, of Boston, with his New England troops ; and his journal, though full of commiseration for this unhappy people, shows that he did not consider the justice of their sentence in the least degree open to qucs- WINDSOR TO GRAND PRE. 257 tt OuotT T '^'i' "'' ^^^''"'f'"«hed many of the Acadians oscnn .1 to Quebec, where their lot wa.s pitiful indeed compared vMth tC n those who remained in the American colonies. Amon'n'n o , „ speech and faith they were at least humanely treated bu .to t.ey were cheated and starved, and died likrheen ,'.«""«: fn'r" the tender mereies of Bigot and his creatures fl^; re od 'whih annals After the removal of the Acadians their fair inheritance lav vacant for years ere men of English speech entered upon it ' WolfviUe to Annapolis. p.pH^'***'''!"^ '^ '' remarkably pretty little university town embow ered m apple-orchards, and ranged on a sunny slope facin^ the ma" sheT M T ii'^r. r- 1 ''' ^^^"'^'^^"' aLding-to'L::*^ 01 Bill, was 1,6(1.), but in the cenmis now beliiR taken it will ri,o , bettc account of itself. On the other side of the great ridg b h nd the town „es ihe deep romantie Val/e,, of me 6r»«p.L.., wbSi H d by some travelers to resemble the valley of the Dee A T 1 , f^™ Wolfville ever the hill will ta.e oneM'rr; J atnlv" been do,,,. jusUee to by the artist's brush. The upper waters „rtle Gaspereaux afford some geod salmou-fishiug, and the ehain „f 1 l fiom whieh it Hows is well stoeked with trout "e own „;„,•,:! .» donuuated by the Baptist university of J„aia CoCwth^.s a, ciated ,n,.,.„,i ,„, ,,, ^,„^„,,^__ ^^ gW; A .1^ college ,> Dr. Sawyer, who secures a very loyal and vigorous support or the instuution from the denomination under whose aufpiees i s eoT diicted. The university building occupies a fine site on theh 1 s de and hows up very effeetively as seen fro.u the passing train Wolfville has several hotels, the best of which is perhaps theL^nV^^^ ll'"' The great cape of Blomidon, the sentinel of the Evan-eliu.. hnrl tZ :r '' n' t*'""" '™'" ^''"^•"'' - "™ Kentvillf akin he new Cormvalhs Valley li. R. ,o Kiugsport and driving thence U r ;-..i ? ""'" " ^°""' *« *""""' Cornwalli, Valley to the httle town of Ca„„i„,. This valley is indeed the garden of , e province. It is traversed by four river.,-the Cornwallis f.„„,rd r „ ».ng, and i'ereau. Its deep alluvial soil is of quenchless fertimv. u. III 258 WOr-FVILLE TO ANNAPOLIS. 1 climate, protected by the lofty range of North Mountain from the fogs and 9torn>8 of Fundy, has the sparkle of sea air with the softness of the most favored inland regions. In many of its charming character- istics, and particularly by reason of its abounding orchards, it recalls the Niagara Peninsula. Some distance; beyond Canning the road be- gins to wind up the sid(i of North Mouutaiii, and then runs along the crest to the lofty point of vantage called the liOok-ofT, whence one gazes into five counties. The glorious |)anorama seen from this point is something one unist go far to equal. Four ndles farther on the range of North Mountain breaks down in magnificent abruptness of cliff, nearly 600 ft., to the tide-swept Hasin of Miuas. This cliff-front is IJlonndon, and the expert climber may explore its somber ramparts for amethysts and garnets, opal and agate, chalcedony and copper, malachite and psilomelanc, or for that fabled crystal, the Diamond of Bhini'lon, whose radiance reveals itself only to the distant watcher, and evades anything like a close scrutiny. Two miles beyond Wolfville is the station of Port Williams, whence quantities of apples, potatoes, and cattle are shipped. Then we for- sake the marshes for a time, and find them very straitened when we meet them again as we draw near Kontville. Keutville* is a busy town packed into a rcnuirkably lovely little valley, along with a bit of tidal river, a brawling amber brook overhung with willows, splendid trees, and great variety in very scanty room, Eveiything appears on a diminutive scale. Evei-ywhere is close to everywhere else in Kcnt- ville, and the place has a peculiar and distinctive charm in spite of its summer heat. That is a small drawback, however, for when quite roasted out one need turn aside but a dozen paces, climb a hill-top, and cool himself comfortably. Kentville is also dusty; but this matters little, for no wind can get at the dust to make it troublesome. The population of Kentville is something over 2,000. It has several hotels, the most popular of which is the excellent new house Abtvdcen. At Kentville we are 71 miles from Halifax, and here the train stops fifteen minutes for refreshments. From the station we may take the new Cornwallis Valley R. R. for Canning and the apple-shipping vil- lage of Kingsport, on Minas Dasin. The 'fare for this trip is 50 cents ; return, 75 cents. At Kingsport (single fare, $1 ; return, $1.60) will be found a seaside resort which has aptly been named the Newport of Nova Scotia. Between Kingsport and Parrsboro, on the Cumber- lavl shore, the Evaugeliae Navigation Company's steamer Evangeline I i WOLFVILLK TO ANNAPOLIS. 259 makes daily tripH acroHH tl.e BaHin of Minus Ph-nrv,- a- r^M.nnr,. *• /. ; ^c)inc/c{8S miles), famous for its Methodist Aylesford L.,kos H. 1. wilderness waters, called the Ayleslord ,s the rifle range and eamp ground cf AldJr o 't K I <on,es Auburn (90 n.iles), and then Kings! (95 mlet A .1 f ' from /un<;sfon is tlie pretty villa^^e of Alolvem T Vu '"^' noh copper and iron mines in its vicinity and is tL ZVu\ niinii« «f +1 XT r, . »»-iuuj, ana is the northwestern ter- minus of the Nova Scotia Central Railway Its chipf ».«* i ! Anoannlj« m^ra^ tu . . '^ waieis ol the historic ^ nnapolis R ver. There is a hotel here called the mm House Three miles farther is the farming and lumbering settlement of /W <^ with fine granite in the neighborhood. Within eT; reach rj capita! trout-waters. Next we come to Bridgetown ulrlT , Halifax and 14 from Annannlis Ti • .-"""^^/^wn, 116 miles from * 11 om Annapolis. This is a stirring little town of somc- lis Eiv « ovc,. 1,,,0„ i„„„w„„„, ,, ,„^. „^^j ^, ^^^.^^^.^^ ^__ ^^^^ ^ ■t lias gooa .vatei-power, which it utilizes ia Xurmt Lnnapo- ure and 'I'm Ml m •h "O I ' l' 260 ANNAPOLIS TO YARMOUTH. organ factories. The surrounding country is prospcroria end thickly settled, wlilcli gives Uridgetown a large local trade. In the Hvighbor- hood is Blondii Brook, so called from a massacre of New England troops by the French and their Indian allies. The chief hotels of Bridgetown are Chuh'\s and the Grand Central, From Bridgetown to Anna|)()lis is the prettiest part of the journey after leaving Kcnt\ille. The views from the car-windows are full of quiet and varied charm — richly wooded slopes, sunny bits of meadow and winding river, and in the distance the blue hills. Midway between Bridgetown and Annapolis is the station of Roundhill. Annapolis to Yarmouth. At Annapolis we arrive about one o'clock. If wo arc going through to St. John we stay on the train, which presently carries us out upon the steamboat wharf. The old historic town of Annapolis, or Annapolis Jioi/al, has a fair and sheltered site, and we fail to won- der that it attracted the regard of French navigators fresh from the rough breast of Fundy. The Basin was discovered by that expedition of De ^lonts and Champlain, in 1G04, that went on to foinid the ill-fated settlement on St. Croix Isla id. The survivors remembered affection- atoly the lovely shores of the Basin, and fled back thither from St. Croix. The region was granted to Baron Poutrineourt, who named it Port Royal; and in 1606 came a little colony, of whom the leading spirit was one Mark Lcscarhof, who became the chronicler of the set- tlement, lie inaugurated that " Order of a Good 77;/;^," whose high- hearted mirth makes so bright a spot in those annals of strife and privation. The members of the order were fifteen, and their head was the " steward," whose oflice was held for a day at a time by each member in turn. TJie steward's responsibility was heavy. He had to prjvide an attractive bill of fare for the day's dinner — and material for such a task was not always abundant at Port Royal. At each feast it was recpiisite that there should be one entirely new delicacy. To- ward spring the wine ran low, and instead of three quarts to each mem- ber the daily allowance was reduced to one poor pint. This merry order doubtless did much to keep up the heart of the lonely little colony during the long and trying winter ; and only three deaths occurred. In the month of January the order went on a six-mile picnic, to see if the corn they bad sown in ^'ovember had begun to sprout beneath the snow ! ANNAPOLIS TO YARMOUTH. 201 left the colony and osfal.li«),n . ! '' '" *" "'•'""^ time wiuiij' ana established a new sett omenf fnllnW «♦ u Mount Dosort. Wlicn this wa, deMr„n.dTv ! Vi ""■' " speedily laid «st... Tl,„8 l,e"an in 1, n ,,, , °'V"-"''' "'""'' '"» '»"" K 'ill »■■< capture by Xew.En.d.„,L, i„T^, I Z "'" '" Koyal is an endloM 8ucee8si„n r.f ,„ 7 ' ^ "'"'^ "' P"" *:„e.tUr„t.u™;.' ::::::;'ri'".r'r''';''"f''-™'- '■ to; and though fiom thi, d.tn Zl ,"'"'"'■'. '""'I', "'ready referred E"«i the fou„: ;t^ ;:: : r rk'::""'"' "■ '."^ """* °^ "'° -tate of «iego ,,y .he"h„.ti?eCiar; d idir "';r. 'r""":' till 1781, when It was attpc-ked in the ni-I.t l-v m.. * • IV and ai.oVther';:;;.arS I™;,:;: ': iZ:;:: :' -"r '"' "'™- Fort Bdward at Windsor M„,. „V , ' ""'""='■ "» " "'»° .ou..ide Of naiif,,,, ,rrr:„rr r r^: ::;r;tf 'vr-' enunont at the ti.ne of confoderation, in 18W '""'""" ""'■ Annapolis had in 188] a population of 9 son u i • p , the ^«ft*,, A„.eruan, and S™ Th jf ^ '" '""'''' "'" and .outh stretch the sheltering, high green ,v I „t x! ,::* N>uth Mountains, and to eastward opens the magnifioont e™Le „f partly ohstruete., hy Ooat ^^r Si,:: t:JZJ:TlJ: P9fxt,!^-4;rn,:::tf-=t:- tance, 87 miles • farp *9 fin tu„ *i i . ^^"""uin. v\i,- YavmnJfh o ' ' ^ *'"'^""'' *''*'""« ^""^''^^^ Halifax and Yaimouth are a great convenience to tourists. C/emenf snort is a hfn m. Village in the neighborhood of rich deposits of T^tlL These 'r 262 ANNAPOLIS TO YARMOUTn. mines were worked for a time and abandoned, but will probably be reopened ere long. From the village roads run inland to the pietur- esque Blue Mountain (held sacred by the Indians), and to the wonder- ful trout- waters of the Liverpool Lakes. Bear River, 9 miles from Digby, is a busy little shipping port, with saw-mills and a tannery. It is most romantically situated in a deep valley, so sheltered that Spring finds her way thither some weeks before she can be jjcrsuaded to smile on the rest of the province. The time to visit Bear River is emphati- cally in the cherry-season — for her cherries are nowhere to be sur- passed. It is a lovely sail down the Basin to Digby, on the calm tide, be- tween the varied and many-colored shores. The steamer City of Mon- ticello, of the Bay of Fundy S. S. Co., is a huge and luxurious boai. Uigby, which lies on a curve of shore just beyond the opening called Dighy Gnf, is a favorite summer resort, and well supplied with hotels. The chief 6f these is the Myrtle House, followed by the Jioyal, Crozier''s^ Shorfs, ai J Dc Bafiuhard^s. Digby has the invigorating sea air of the Bay of Fundy, which is only 3 miles distant, behind the mountain, and is free from the fog and the chill. The sea-bathing is good, though colder than at Annapolis, and there is good sport to be had in the way of salt-water fishing; while the boating, of course, is all that could be wished. Digby has a population of about 1,2<>0, and is extensively engaged in fisheries. The herring known as "Digby chickens" are famous throughout the Maritime Provinces for their delicacy. A prom- inent object near the station is a field full of little wooden platforms, on which the split cod are dried for export. The pier of Digby is a long and lofty structure, at different portions of which a landing is effected, according to the state of the tide. The fluctuation of tide here is somewhere about 40 ft., and the tremendous currents every now and then work disaster for the pier, which seems forever being rebuilt. The traveler who is bound for St. John turns northwestward from Digby. After steaming a couple of miles along a fair and lofty sloping shore, the steamer enters the fine scenery of Digby Gut, or, as it was called of old, St. George's Channel. This passage is a gigantic cleft in the North Mountain, nearly 2 miles through, and about half a mile in width, with bold, darkly-wooded shores from 500 to 600 ft. in height. On the eastern slope perch a few airy cottages, making up an ideal fishing village ; and the reddish-gray lines of a winding road seem as if they were painted on the istecp iueliiic. Through the " Gut " sweep rihly be pictur- vonder- L-a from !ry. It Spring ,o smile mplmti- bo siir- ido, be- of Mon- is boat. D? called hotels. rozier^s, r of the lin, and thoiifjh the way ouUl be jnsively »s" are V prom- )rms, on J a long (ffected, here is low and lilt. rd from sloping s it was cleft in mile in height, m ideal ?m as if ' sweep •»*fc>>l«»»«4*«fe«««^«.»^ ,...._ 3 a; 3 ;5 2 V 3 3 1 ANNAPOLIS TO ZARMOUTIl. 263 3 a; 3 ;5 2 V 3 3 1 terrific tulcs, boiling and eddyinjr, and tossing violently the flshorracn's boats which dot its surface. The Fundy gate of the passage is usually wh.te with su.f. Digby Gut is satisfying, always, to the lover of the picturesque ; but it is never more so than when one enters it fron, the bay and looks through its grand portals into the favored haven beyond. The fare fron, Digby to Yarmouth is «(2, and the distance 67 mdes. The railway lies son.e .listance back from the coast, along which are most of the eettlements ; and travelers who wish to visit the picturesque Acadian district of Clare may do so very conven- iently from Weyn.outh by driving. Clare is settled by returned Acadian exiles, and maintains its i.eculiar individuality with great per- sistence. It is almost as quaint as Chezzetcook. The settlements are like one long village street, for miles ; and back of the cottages run the narrow strips of the oft-subdivided farms. The district lies alon- the shores of the deep bay of St Ma.y\ whose waters arc separated "only by a narrow isthmus from those of the Annapolis Basin. The bay is divided from the Bay of Fundy by the long line of mountains, a con- tinuation of North Mountain, known as Digby Neck. This curious peninsula, which is only from a mile to a mile and a half in width runs 20 miles seaward, and is continued for another 20 miles by Lonq Island mii Brier Island. The Neck and the Islands are settled by a picturesque and hardy fishing population, whose centers are the quaint out-of-the-world villages of Sandy Cove, Free Port, and Westport reached by stage and ferries from Digby. The most important station on the Western Counties Railway, after leaving Digby, is Weymouth a remarkably pretty little ship-building town at the mouth of the Sk. stboo River, some distance ur. St. Mary's Ray. Wevraouth has a large West India trade, and a population of about 1,800. Two or th-pe miles up the river is the village of Weymouth Bridge. The chief hotels are Jones s and the American Home. A short distance beyond foam the pretty Sissiboo Falls. Soon the railroad leaves St. Mary's Bay and strikes through a rough country dotted with trout-waters, to Yar. mouth. The most important stations on this section of the line are Metcghan, Brazil Lake, Ohio, and Hebron. Yarmouth has been already described. The train stops at Yarmouth Station, and then runs down on to the wharf with the passengers for the boat. Presently the trav- eler finds himself moving slowly down the Yarmouth River, emerg- mg from whose narrow pass the boat heads straight across the open Atlantic fov Boston. ■I 1 1 mmm i^mmmmmmm'i' WESTERN CANADA. II "'•3aKtB«MNw«.i.»... .. WESTERN CANADA. In that part cf this book devoted to Eastern Canada a fall descrip- tion of the rrovinces of Ontario and of Quebec, and of the Maritime Provinces, including Newfoundland, is given. But this is not all of the mightj empire known as the Dominion of Canada. West of Onta- rio is Manitoba, and beyond are Assiniboia and Saskatchewan. Then comes Alberta, and far away on the Pacific Coast are British Columbia and V^ancouver's Island, whl^h serve to separate the United States from its northern territory of Alaska. The journey through these provinces is described in the following pages. The Canadian Pacific Railway is the iron link that connects the East with the West, and we shall follow that route, for the most part, in our trip across the continent. It is the chief means of transportation, and with its branches touches all points worthy of notice. In the text we shall continue the practice of abbreviating its title to C. P. R. Montreal is the great railway centre of Canada. It is the main terminus of the C. P. R., and from it through trains run E. and W. and S. Mileage is counted from it. A full description of it— the chief city of Canada— has already been given on pages 60 to 71 of this book, but for convenience sake mention must be made of the meth- ods of reaching it. From Portland, Me., it may bo reached by the Grand Trunk Ry., and the Maine Central R. R. to Newport, Vt.', and thence by the C. P. R. From Boston there is a choice of the several White Mountain routes, as the Boston & Maine R. R. to Newport and thence over the C. P. R., or by the Concord & Montreal R. R. to Wells River and thence over the Central Vermont R. R. to St. Johns, where the Grand Trunk Ry. is taken. From New York the New York Central R. R. or the West Shore R. R. is available lo Albany, where connection is made with the Delaware & Hudson R. R. to Rouse's Point, and thence over the Grand Trunk Ry. again ; also by the Adi. rondack Div. of the New York Central R. R. by w-av of St. Constant. ill 268 FROM MONTKEAL TO OTTAWA. Montreal to Ottawa. a. By the Canadian Pacific Eailway. The fiimoiis trip down the Ottawa River, with its tiiriliing passage through the Lachiiie Rapids, has aheady been described on page 53, but tlie westward trip by the 0. P. R. needs brief reference at this point. Tlie Pacific Express leaves Montreal daily, except Sundays, for Otta^va, and makes the distance of 120 miles in ',\% hours. The same train makes the distance to Vancouver (2,900 miles) in exactly 5 days and 3 hours. As the train leaves Montreal it passes the long freight sheds, ware- houses, and grain elevators that line the river front, and in 5 minutes reaches Montreal Junction., a fashionable suburb of Montreal, that takes its name from the fact that it is the railroad junction from the Mari- time Provinces, Boston, and Portland, and all trains to the West. An- other 5 minutes brings us to Sauli aux Recolhtu, and the train crosses a branch of the Ottawa. French names abound in this vicinity, and the next station is <SV. Martin Junrtiou, so called on account of the diver- gence of the line to Quebec. The N. branch of the Ottawa is crossed at Ste. Jiosc (17 miles). From here on, the line follows the N. bank of the Ottawa, and frequent views are had of steamboats, lumber barges, and rafts of timber as they are passed on its broad waters. The valley i.-; divided into narrow, well-tilled French farms, mostly de- voted to dai.^ products. Picturesque villages are passed at intervals, and streams coming down from the Laurentian Hills on the N. alford good fishing. At Ste. Thercse three branch lines diverge to St. Lin., LabcUe, and St. Eustachc. At Luclmte (44 miles) there are paper mills, wood-working and other industries, and it is a shipping point for daily products. The Ottawa Valley Ry. runs from here to St. Andrew, There are extensive saw-mills at Calumet (59 miles), and these occur at frequent intervals. On the opposite side of the river are the Caledonia I^Iineral Springs — a health resort, with good hotels and attractive sur- roundings. From Buckingham (100 miles) a branch extends northward to phosphate, mica, and graphite mines. Soon after leaving the station the main line of the railway crosses, by an iron bridge, directly over the magnificent falls of the Lievre River. After crossing the Gatineau River the Government Buildings in Ottawa come into view on a high cliff at the left. At Hidl (118 miles) a branch diverges, keeping N. FROM MONTREAL TO OTTAWA. 2(59 of the Ottawi., and runs through Aylmer to Couh)ns(>. L(!aving Hull, the main line swings round, crosses a long iron bridge, from where li view of the Chaudi5re Falls is obtained, and enters Ottawa. b. Jii/ the Canada Atlantle Ruilway. This route is likewise 120 miles long, and the time oeeupied in making the trip about ^ hours. The train leaves Montreal from the Bonaventure Station and follows the tracks of the Grand Trunk Ry along the banks of the St. Lawrence River to Coteau Junrtion (iil) miles), where connection is made with the Adirondack Division of the New York Central & Hudson J{. R., and with the branch of the Canada Atlantic that extends to Rouse's Point, where it meets the Central Ver mont R. R. and the Delaware & Hudson R. R. At Si. Pobjcarpc June tlon (45 miles) the C. P. ^l. is crossed, and at Sic. Justine (51 miles) the Province of Ontario is entered. The next place of importance is Glen Jiober/.son {r^6 miles), where a branch extends 21 miles N. to Hawvs- bur,/, passing Vanklcek IliU (14 miles), where conveyances may be had to Cabdonia /^^prinffs, a resort where the waters are said to be valu- able for rheumatic co>nplaints. Alexandria (02 miles) is the half-way station. It is a small manufacturing town of nearly 2,000 inhabitants. The remaining stations are of small importance tWl Fas(man\s Spriuffs (KHJ miles) is reached. This resort is much freciuented by the resi- dents of Ottawa. As the tiain approaches the city a «ne view of the buildings may be had from the right, and after crossing the tracks of the C. P. R. and the Rideau River the Elgin Street Station in Ottawa is reached. Ottawa. A full desciiption of Ottawa has already been given on page 49, and in addition to the routes just mentioned as coming from Montreal,' it is directly accessible from the S. ))y means of a l)ranch of the' C. P. R. that extends to Prescott, on the St, Lawrence River. Ogdens- burg, opposite, on the American side, is the northern terminus of the Rome, VVatertown & Ogdensburg R. R., that connects with the New York Central R. R. at Utica, Rome, Syi juse, Rochester, and Bufialo, tlius affording direct access from the chief railroad centres of the United States. There are also Grand Trunk collections from Toronto at IJrock- ville and Prescott, and direct connection from Toronto over the C. P. R. by way of Smilu's Falls and Carietoii Junction. (" 270 OTTAWA TO SUDBURY. I] Ottawa to Sudbury. Leaving Ottawa, the C. V. H. follows the S. l)ank of the Ottawa River for several miles, aiul on its wide stietohes may be seen enormous (juantities of saw-logs held in " booms " for the use of the mills below. The little villages of Skead and Briiaunia are passed, and the river dis- appears as the train contin\ies to the S. Several stations come in sight and are quickly left behind until Carhtoii Pliwe (148 miles) is reached. Here are large saw-mills, railway and other workshojjs. It is also the junction of the main line with the Ottawa and Brockville section that extends 45 miles to Brockville, where, after crossing the St. Lawrence River, Morristown, on the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg R. R., is reached. Sn^ith's Falls, 13 miles S. of Carleton Place, on the Brock\ ille section, is a junction on the Ontario and Quebec division bt;tween Montreal and Toronto. Returning to the main line and after leaving Carleton the route i^ in a northwesterly direction and through the beautiful valley of the Ottawa, which for a hundred or more miles is well cultivated by English, Scotch, and German farmers. Large, clear streams come rushing down to the river from the hills in the W., and in these tine tishing is to be had, especially maskinonge, trout, and bass. At Ahnonle there are large woollen mills, and I'akenham, 8 miles beyond, is another numufacturing point. Jicnfrcir, 69 miles from Ottawa, is the northern terminus of the Kingston & Pembroke Ry., that extends 104 miles S. through a district abounding in iron to Kings- ton on the St. Lawrence River, and is the eastern terminus of the At- lantic and Northwestern branch, that extends 23 miles to Eganville. Renfrew is a lively town of some 3,(H)0 inhabitants. The road then curves to the N. and reaches the river again near Pembroke (224 miles) {CopeUmd Hotel), the chief place of the Upper Ottawa N'alley. It has nearly 5,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of numerous industrial es- tablishments and several saw-mills. The river expands here into a broad sheet called Allumette Lake, and is a famous locality for trout fishing. The scenery in the vicinity is tine, especially at the nariows at the head of the lake. C'hamplain ascended the Ottawa River in canoes as far as this point in U)13. From Pembroke to Mattawa the distance is 94 miles, and the route is almost entirely along the W. bank of the livcr. The chief industry of this region is lumber, and saw-mills occu;' ^vher- ever water power is available, forming centres around which the few iuhabitauts cluster. Aa the couiitry grows wilder the oppovt-aDUies for OTTAWA TO SUDBURY. 271 sport with K»n and rod increase. Chalk River is a divisional pc.int, with engine-house and the usual railway buildiuKH, and also a restau- rant. Rockliffe and Khck are the larger stations. Mattawa, ;n8 miles {Wo^Um Hotel), an important distributing ponit for the lumber regions, at the junction of the Ottawa and Mattawa Rivers (hence its name, signifying " The Fcrks "), was formerly a trad- ing post of the Hudson Bay Co. It is a favourite centre for moose hunters, and guides and supplies for shooting expeditions may always be obtained here. Lake Temiscamingue is 40 miles to the N., toward which a branch of the road is being built, and has already reached Long SauU (31 miles), with a branch to Lake Kippewa. To the S. of the railway is Algoncpiin Park (12 miles), a picturesque tract of land of 1,406 s(iuare nnles, that was set apart bv the (Government of Ontario in 1893 for the preservation of game aiid forests and as a public pleasure and health resort. After leaving Mattawa the route passes through a somewhat wild and broken country, with frequent lakes and rapid streams, towards Lake Nipissing. Callamhr (344 miles) was originally intended as the eastern terminus of the C. P. R., to which connecting roads would run ; but with the transfer of control from the Government to the corporation the line was extended to Montreal. Nlpimng Junction is the point where the Grand Trunk Ry. from Toronto, after passing through the region of Lake Simcoe and the Muskoka lakes, reaches the track of the C. P. R. on its way to North Bay {Pacific Hotel), the terminus of the Grand Trunk extension. This place is on Lake Nipissing, a beautiful sheet of water 40 miles hmg and 10 miles wide, with forest clad shores and islands. Small steamers ply on the lake, and boats for sailing and rowing are easilv procurable. Its waters contain the maskinonge, pike, bass, and pickerel, and good shootmg can be had in tlie surrounding country. North Bay is a rail- way divisional point, and contains the usual repair shops. Tlie route con- tinues along the north shore of the lake past several unimportant stations until Cache Bay is reached, and then turns slightly to the N., passing through a comparatively wild region where forests, meadows, lakes and rocky ridges alternate. The scenery is striking, and at places extremely mterestmg. Bear, moose, and deer abound throughout this territory, and the fisluug in the many lakes and rivers is excellent. The principal mdustry of this region is timber cutting. Sudbury (443 miles), the ter- mmus of the division, is an important centre. The most extensive copper and nickel deposits in the world, perhaps, are in the immediate vicinity. IwfV. < u !i i| jiV^mmf mmmw 272 SUDBURY TO 8AULT 8TE. MARIE. Smelting furnaces have been erected for the reduction of the ores on the spot. It U interesting to note that from these metalliferous depos- its the only known native salts of platinum have ever been found. There is a railroad restaurant at the station, and a hotel in the town. The population is about 1,700. Sudbury to Sault Ste. Marie. From Sudbury a branch extends westward 182 miles to Sault Ste. Marie. The route has no special features, and the stations are unim- portant until Alyoma Mills is reached. Here Lake Huron comes in sight, and the town is one of the oldest and most important lumbering ports on the lake. Thereafter the lake continues in view until Bruce Mines is reached. Formerly the copper deposits existing here were worked. Sault Ste. Marie [Inter iiational Hotel), in Ontario, is a small place, and is; connected by means of an iron bridge a mile long over Sault River with Hault Ste. Marie in Michigan, which is the eastern terminus of the Duluth, South Shore, & Atlantic Ry. running to Du- luth, and with the Minneapolis, St. Paul & Sault Ste. Marie Ry. run- ning to St. Paul and Minneapolis. Through trains from Sudbury to Sault Ste. Marie make the trip in 6 hours, and it is not necessary to change cars for points in the United States. For those who prefer it the steam- ers of the C. P. S. S. line are available for a trip across Lake Superior, connecting again at Fort William with the main line of the C. P. R. Sudbury to Winnipeg. With our faces turned to the W. we leave Sudbury and start on a long journey of 981 miles. As we leave the little town the train passes over the falls of the Sturgeon River, and our direction is to the N. W. Rivers and lakes are passed, and at Lara- :ood (461 miles) we reach Vermilion Lake. As the approach is made to Onaping the high falls (150 ft.) of the Vermilion River come in sight, and an excellent view of thera is obtained from the cars. Cartier (4T8 miles) is a divi- sional point, with a restaurant and various railroad structures. It was once a trading post of the Hudson Bay Co. From here to Biscotasing (532 miles) the scenery is remarkably fine. Biscotasing is on an irreg- ular lake of the same nanie, and although its population does not ex- ceed 500, it has a large trade in furs and lumber. Ever onward the o 3 73 ■^ IS 5 60 ^ •§ I'' "I ^ -2 3 ■0 o o 1) 'f\ m 'k ff I NORTH SHORE OF LAKK fllPERFOR. 273 non Htced hurries, haUi„« I.ero Hn.l tbore for a brief mon.ent at ««,„o obHcure 8t«ti(,n, ,,nic-klv cnmninK brid^os over swiftly running rivers whose strc-an.s rush t,. a.hl thdr waters to th<,se of the Great Lakes and past lonely h.kes wh<.se virgi,, waters still await the white H.hernmn. J-nially Chnnhan ((Ur, miles), on Lake KinojrM.na, is reaehed. It is a divisional point, and has the usual railway workslu.ps, with eottaees for the. „,en and their families. There is a restaurant at the stati(,n. At Windermere (.141 nnles), near Lake Mipissi, there are iron niines, and after crossinj. Dofr L„ke the station of Mi^mnahic (<m miles, is reaehed Tins point was well known loi.f,' hefure the days of the railroad f.,r it was a rcndetvom of the ,-ov«y.«nv who h-m.^ht their furs Iron. 'the N up the waters of .,.e Moose River (that flows to Hudson Hay) and thence by short portage to Dog Lake, whose outlet, the Michipieoten River, leads t.. Lake Superior. Gold mines have rec-ntly been discov- ered to the S. of this point. F..r some distance b<.yond there are no points of spe<-ial interest, although the numerous railroad cuttings testify to the skill of the engineers by whom the railroad was built White River (747 miles) is a divisional point, with the accompanying worksho,,s and railroad restaurant. There are also large cattle-yards here that are used to rest the live stock in on their way to the Eastern markets. The route continues along the left bank of the White River which it crosses at Bremmer (7(i;5 miles), and then passes Round Lake' where good fishing is to be had. The Big Pic River is crossed bv J high iron bridge, and a mile beyond is Heron Bay (802 miles) on the northeast end of Lake Superior. ' North Shore of Lake Superior. For 60 miles beyond this point the route is continued through and around the bold and harsh promontories of the north shore of Lake Superior, with deep rock cuttings, viaducts, and tunnels constantly oc- curring, and at interv Is where the railway is cut out of the face of the cliffs the lake comes into full view. The scenery is an important consideration on this part of the journey and in order that the tourist may enjoy it as much as possible the time schedule is arranged for the westward trip so that the lake views may be enjoyed by daylight Pemmula{U\ mile.s) is a small station on the lake, and then comes the sweep around Jackfish Ray, which is of special interest on account of the scenery. The bay itself is a great fi.hlBg resort, and its water. 18 11 274 NORTH HllORE OF LAKE HUPERIOR. abound in white fish, Hturgooii, and the fanioiiH hike trout. Sclirfiher (K<)5 nnloH) is a divisional pdiiit, and the home of one of the superintend- ents It is also a eonvonient idace to start from on a fishing expedi- tion. The lake turns inward from here to form Nepii^on Hay, which is separated from the lake by a group of ishunls, the largest of which is St. Ignaf'e. Sonie of the heaviest work on the entire line of the rail- way occurs in this vicinity, especially just beyond Jio.suporf {HH{) miles). The constantly changing views on Nepigon Hay are chainiing. All of the streams emptying into Lake Superior contain speckled trout in plenty, and in some of the streams, Nepigon lliver es|)ecially, they are noted for their large size — six-pounders being not uncommon. The river is a beautiful stream, well known to sportsmen, and is crossed l»y a fine iron bridge a little before reaching the station. At its mouth on fhe bay is the station of Ncpi(/(>n, '.»29 miles ( 7ai/lor''s Ilohi). Three miles bey()nd Nepigon the railway turns around the base of Red Rock, a high, bright-red clitl", and, avoiding the heads of Black Hny and Thun- der Bay, takes a straight southwesterly coiu'se, and from the higher elevations doUghtful views of Thunder Bay are to be had. A few un- important stations are passed, and then we reach Port yl /•//«<;•, 99.'} miles [The Not'tJurn), a lake town of some ;i,00() inhabitants, with steamboat connection tri-weekly with Sault Ste. Marie and Duluth. The steamers of the C. P. S. S. line for Fort William also stop here. Besides its oppor- tunities for fishing there is excellent shooting to be had in the neighbour- hood, including bears, deer, and even moose and caribou. Since 1882 some interest has been developed in the gold and silver mines in the vicinity. It is the northern terminus of the Port Arthur, Duluth, & Western Ry. that runs S. to the Iron Range. Five miles beyond is Fort William, 998 miles {Kaininistiqiiia Hotel). It is on the Kami- nistiquia River, a deep, broad stream with firm banks, a few miles above its mouth on Lake Superior, thus affording great advantages foi: lake traffic. The town is pleasantly situated. A long promontory of basaltic rock on the opposite side of the bay, called the " Sleeping Giant," whose Indian legend takes one back to aboriginal days, ter- minates in Thunder Cape, behind which lies the famous Silver Islet, which has yielded almost fabulous wealth. Pie Island, another moun- tain of columna- basalt, divides the entrance to the bay, which is flanked on the W. by Mackay Mountain, overlooking Fort William. Looking W., between Pie Island and Thunder Cape, Isle Royale may te seen in the distance. It is the western terminus of the eastern i m y 1 f ■ 1 1 r ( c }- i C ti t( P tl II Ui 8l St in ni Cl( CO en trti to ue! Du ing are wii tl'O tha usii tior and mill niil< grai witl sigh that NORTH 8II011E OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 275 division «t tl.e C. P. H. and of the V. P. S. S. line, so that „as. sengeps for the extreme W. who followed the route from Smlburv to ^ault Ste. Mane and there took the steamer now return to the tmin The station is oonnecte.l with the wharf by means of a foot-bri.l.re" On the nver banks in recent years three large grain elevators, with^ a capacity of nearly 3,'750,0()(. bushels, have been built. Fort William is the natural outlet for largo quantities of grain that come from Mani- toba and the Northwest Territories to be shij.ped to the various lake ports. The settlement is an old one and dates back to the last cen- tury. In 1801 u became a port of the Hudson IJay Co., to which the Indians came in their canoes down the Kaministi,,uia Kiver and con- necting streams to sell their furs. The fur house of the old fort is now used as an engine-house for the coal docks. West-bound passengers shou d set their watches back one hour in conformity with central standard time, and from here on the twenty-four hour 'time system is in use-that IS, time is reckoned continuously from midnight" to mid- night; thus 1 p. M. is called 13 o'clock. After leaving Fort William the train passes a ie^v miles of partially cleared farm land, and then plunges into a wild, broken region that continues for hun.lreds of miles. The route passes many lakes ana crosses rapid rivers. Forests with valuable timber come and go as the train pushes onward, and mineral deposits, the wealth of which is vet to be developed, fade in the distance as the journey westward contin- ue.s. JIunl/o (1,011 „.iles) is the railway crossing of the Port Arthur Duluth, and Western Ry. that runs to the Rabbit Mountain silver min' ing district. The Kakabcka Falls, formed by the Kaministiquia River are 4 miles from the station. They are i;iO ft. high and 450 ft' wide The railway follows the river for some distance, and excellent trout hshing IS to be had near the stations. It was through this region that Wol.eley led his army from Fort William to Winnipeg in 1870 using the more or less connected rivers and lakes much of the way Sta- tions are parsed at regular intervals, but they are only " water tanks and footprints-little else." Some 'of their names-Mnnark (Um miles), AorMund (1,049 miles). Linkoopbu; (1,059 miles), UjmlanmO miles), and .Xil,!ock (1,096 miles)_indicate their settlement by immi- grants from Scandinavia, fyr.ace (1,146 miles) is a divisional point with a restaurant at the station. The Wabigoon River soon comes in sight, and the train continues along its banks, past numerous lakes that are noted chiefly for the excellent fishing they a.Tord, and their 276 MANITOBA. Stations. At Eagle Rivn- (1,226 mile.s) there are two waterfalls that may be seen, one above and the other below the railway. The route passes through numerous rocky uplifts, and the scenery is often of the wildest description, with deep, rock-bound lakes continuously in sight. Rat Portage (1,291 miles) is an important town of 2,000 'inhabitants, with several large saw-mills, on the principal outlet of the Lake of the Woods. This lake, 65 miles long and from 10 to 50 miles wide, is the largest body of water touched by the railway between Lake Superior and the Pacific, and is the chief waterway to the gold fields of the Rainy Lake district. It is studded with islands, and is a favorite resort for sportsmen and pleasure seekers. Its waters break through a nar- row rocky rim at Rat Portage and Keewatln and fall into the Winnipeg River. The cascades are most picturesque, and have been utilized for water-power for a number of large saw-mills, while at the lower end it connects with Rainy Lake by the Rainy River. Steamers leave Rat Portage nearly every day in summer for Fort Francis and the Rainy Lake Region. The falls of the Winnipeg are seen to the right as the train passes over the open-work bridge on leaving Rat Portage. A steam ferry connects Kceundn (1,295 miles) (noted for its huge flour- mill, built of granite quarried on the spot) and Rat Portage. l7iffoI/ (1,322 miles) is the last station in Ontario, and 2'elford (1,333 miles) the first in Manitoba. At WIdtcmouth (1,363 miles), on the river of the same name, that empties in the Winnipeg a few miles to the N\, are more saw-mills. The country now flattens out and gradually assumes the characteristics of a prairie. Little farms and pastures come in sight. At East Selkirk (1,403 miles) a Government fish hatchery has been established, and here the route turns southward, following the line of the Red River of the North to St. Boniface, where the river is crossed by a long iron bridge, and Winnipeg is reached. Manitoba. This province is bounded on the N. by Saskatchewan and Keewatin, on the E. by Ontano, on the S. by the States of Minnesota and North Dakota, and on the W. by Assiniboia. From E. to W. it extends about 300 miles, and it covers an area of '73,956 square miles. Ac- cording to the census of 1891, it had a population of 152,506, which has since been materially increased by immigration. Its S. boundary being the forty-ninth parallel of latitude, it is therefore S. of Great Britain, WINNIPEG. 277 but, notwithstanding, it suffers extremes of climate. The summer mean .s from 65 to 6r F., but in winter it sometimes falls to 30", and even 50 , below zero. The atmosphere, however, i . bright and dry, and the sensation erf cold is not so >'.npleasant as that of a cold temperature in a hum.d atmosphere. The general features of the province are those of a broad, rolhng prairie, relieved at intervals by gently rising hills and numerous bluffs and '.kelets. Manitoba is therefore essentially an agncultural country. The soil is a firm, rich, black, argillaceous mou d or loam, restmg in a deep rnd very tenacious clay subsoil It is nearly If not quite, the wettest soil m the world, and is especially adapted to the growth of wheat. In 1891 it was estimated that the crop of wheat alone available for export was 20,000,000 bush-Is Small fruits, such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries* cranberries, plums, etc., are plentiful. The prairie farms are weU adapted to the raising of horses and cattle, and since 1891 cattle have been regularly exported from Manitoba to England. The raising of pigs and sheep is attracting attention, and dairy farming is engaging an increasing amount of interest. To the sportsman the beautiful flocks of prairie chickens, and the mallard, the teal, the butter-ball, the red-head and other varieties of duck are among the attractions, while those who fancy larger game find the deer, the b'ack and cinnamon bear, the elk n Vr^r w '\" T'"'"' '" ''""''"^^- ^"'' "^'°^« have been opened' m the S. W. end of the province. Important cities, like Winnipeg Brandon, and Portage la Prairie, offer market opportunities, and Winnipeg especia ly affords educational advantages of unusu 1 ex- cellence The railroad facilities are very good, and Winnipeg-is the chief railroad centre. Besides the C. P. R. and its branches, the North, ern Pacific and the Great Northern R. Rs. afford communication with the a, while the Manitoba and Northwestern Ry. is pushing its wav to tbe N. \\ mnipeg is the seat of government. !m Winnipeg^. Hotels.— The Mnmfoba, over the Northern P..n5fin o u * ^- ffh St %:^{/^^'''.T'\ ^' t^ $^f cCxtptfagf! r 478 Main St railway stations, there is the Criterion, «u be had at the stations, and 25 oents is the charge for te or two 278 WINNIPEG. pasM^ngers for i^liort distances not exceeding ten minutes, as from sta- tion to station. Hy the iiour, 75 <'<'nts. Railway Stations.— The Union Station, on Main St. and 11th Ave., Nortii, is used l)y the ('. P. R. and all roads except the North- ern racific R. R., wliose station is on tlie corner of Main and Water Sts. The Post Office is on the corner of Main and Owen Sts. ; is open from 8 A. M. to 7 v. m. Club.- The Manitoba Club is in Second St., South. Winnipop, the capital of Manitoba, is on a flat plain at the junction of the Assiiiiboine and Red Rivers, both of which are navigable by steamers ; the latter extends about 40 miles N. to Lake Winnipeg, a great inland sea resembling the U. S. (Jreat Lakes, some 260 miles long and from 5 to (iO miles in width. It was the Fort Garry of tlie Hudson Bay Co., and had a population of alxmt 200 in 1870, which increased to 7,98f) in 1881, aiui lo 25,042 in 1801, while now (1895) it has a popu- lation of upwards of 30,000. The name Winnipeg, which it took in 1881, is derived from tua Indian Ouinipigon, signifying muddy water. The streets are wide and well laid out. They were renamed on a nu- merical system in 1890. Many of the buildings are substantial and worthy of notice. Conspicuous among them is the City Hall, on Main St., ni front of which stands a mctnonal coluinii that has been erected in memory of the volunteers who fell in the rebellion in 1885. Near by is the Market, and the Om'm Excknnyc, with the Board of 'Trade, are in the immediate vicinity. The Post q^pce building, the Cuntom House, and the site of old Fort Garry are all on Main St. The Hudmn Baij Co.'s Stores are interesting, and the history of their early trading is the con- necting link between the past and the pi-esent. The Parliament House on Broadway, with the residence of the Lieiitenatit- Uovernor, and Fort Osborne, the military head(iuarters, together with the Court House and the Pnmneial Jail, are in the vicinity. Among the churches are All Suirits\ 'Prinitt/, St. Manfs, Graee, and Knox Church. The institutions for higher education include .}funito(Ht College, St. John's Episeopal Col- lege, and the Manitoba Medical College. The Citg Hospital and the Provincial Deaf and Dumb Institute are conspicuous among the elee- mosynary institutions. Diifferin Park and Elm Park are two small pleasure grounds that have already been laid out, and other plots are in process of being acquired and beautified. Winnipeg is also an im- portant railway centre. It contains the chief workshops of the C. P. R. between Montreal and the Pacific, and the Northern Pacifif^ R. R. have WINNIPEG. 270 their terminal workshops here. It is the chief land office of the Do- minion in the \V., and the principal land olHces of the C P R are in the Union Station. Northward the C. P. R. has a branch running 82 mile-s to West Sc/kirk, also one to the N. W. 20 miles to Slonmall Also to the N. the Hudson Bay R. R. extends 40 miles to Shoal Lake. The Manitoba and Northwestern R. R of Canada follows the track of the main line of the 0. P. R. to Fortaffe la Prairie, where it connects with a branch of the Northern Pacific R. R., and turns to the N. W., finding its northern terminus in Vorl^-iown, Assiniboia 279 miles from Winnipeg. The C. P. R. has two branches leading southward, one on the east side of the Red River to Emerson {Gi> miles) and the other to Grefna (69 miles), on the U. S. boundary, connecting at the latter point with the train service of the Great Northern R R Two branch lines of the C. P. R. go S. W. to Souri^ and A^apinka in south- ern Manitoba, 150 and 221 miles distant respectively, and there connect with the branch line from Iirandn„ (connecting also here with the Northern Pacific R. R.) through to Esfevan, the junction with the new Soo-Pacific line that runs eastward to Saulf S(e. Marie. A branch of the Northern Pacific R. R. from St. Paul leaves the main line at Winmpeff Junction in Minnesota and extends to Winnipeg passing through Grand Forks and Pembina. I! Winnipeg to Regina. A stop of two and a half hours is usually made in Winnipeg and then the train starts westward again. On leaving the city the country seems level and bare. It is unoccupied, becauee the land is largely held by speculators, and the few farms that are p.s..ed are devoted to dairv products and cattle breeding. After leaving Poplar Point (1,464 miles) farms appear almost continuously, and the prairie during harvest time affords the monotonous sight of the wheat that eloquently though silently testifies to the great richness of the soil. The line of trees to the 8. marks the course of the Assiniboine River, which the railway follows for a little over 100 miles. Notwithstanding the apparent flat- ness of the land there is a gradual ascent of 100 feet between Winni- peg and Fortaffe la Prairie (1,480 miles). This place is on the Assini- boine River, and has a population of nearly 4,500. It is the market town of a rich and populous district, and one of the principal grain markets m the province. There are large flouring mills and grain elevators a 280 WINNIPEG TO REGINA. brewery, paper-mill, biscuit factory, and other industries here. The Manitoba and Northwestern Ry. extends 228 miles N. W. to York- town, with blanches at Minnedosa to Rapid City, and at Binscartb to Russell. The Manitoba branch of the Xorthern Paciiic R. R. extends to Portage la Prairie. After passing through a bushy district, with frequent ponds and small streams, the railway rises from Aiislin (1,509 miles) along a sandy slope to a plateau with an area of over 100,000 squan^ miles, forming a fine wheat-growing region. Cavbvrry (1,5S0 miles) is in the centre'of the district, and is its chief grain market. From SeweU{\^mH miles) the route descends again to the valley of the Assiniboine. To the southwest are seen the Brandon Hills. Prom Chater (1,551 miles) the Great North- west Central Ry., running northwestward toward Saskatchewan, is open to Hamiota (51 miles). Pour miles beyond the station the Assiniboine River is crossed by an iron bridge, and the divisional point of Brandon (l.SSY miles) {Lungham and Grand Vim) is reached. This town is beautifnlly situated on high ground, and, although it can almost be said to have come with the railway, it is now the second city of Manitoba, with a population of nearly 6,0u0 inhabitants. It has excellent paved streets and many substantial buildings. Brandou is a distributing mar- ket for an extensive and well-settled country. It is also the largest grain market of the province, having five grain elevators, with a total capacity of 310,000 bushels. There is an experimental farm here un- der the care of the Government officials. The standard time changes from " central " to " mountain " time, which is one hour slower as we go W. Besides being a divisional point it is also an important rail- road centre. The Pipestone branch is open to Reston, 63 miles S. At Mentelth Junction it connects with the Souris branch, that runs S. W. 133 miles through the fertile distiict of the Souris River, which also yields much coal, to Estevau, on the Soo Pacific line, connecting the Canadian northwest with the Middle and Northwestern States of the Union. It is also the western terminus of the Manitoba Division of the Northern Pacific R. R. Beyond Brandon the railway leaves the Assini- boine River, ai.i rises from its valley to an undulating prairie that is well occupied with prosperous farmers, as shown by the thriving vil- lages tbi't appear at frequent intervals. At Kemnay (1,565 miles) the Souris branch diverges to the S,, and Virdin (1,604 miles) is the mar- ket town of a district of rich farms. Elkhorn (1,621 miles) is like- wise a prairie town surrounded by farms. I Nli A8SINIB0IA. 281 Assiniboia. This district lies directly W. ot Manitoba. It is bounded on tlie W. by Saskatchewan, on the E. by Manitoba, on the S. by North Dakota and Montana, and on the W. by Alberta. It has an area of 100,100 square miles, and, according to the census of 1891, had a nonu- lation of 25,278 inhabitants. The surface is rolling, dotted over with clumps of trees, usually found bordering the shores of lakes and meadows. The district is divi.led into two great areas. Eastern Assini- boia and Western Assiniboia. Each of these divisions has its' own pecuhar characteristics, the eastern portion being essentially a wheat- growmg country, and the western better fitted for mixed farming and ranchmg. In Eastern Assiniboia, the great plain lying S. of the Qu'Ap- pelle River and stretching S. to the international boundary is considered to have the largest acreage of wheat land possessing a uniform char- acter of sod found in any one tract of fertile prairie land in the ^1. W. The eastern part of the district is known as the Park Countrv of the Canadian N. W. The Qu'Appelle district contains a large tract of excellent farming country, watered by the Qu'Appelle River and the J^ishmg Lakes. The soil is a black loam with clay subsoil. The water .of the lakes and rivers is excellent, and stocked with fish. It is a coun- try renowned for wild fowl and other game. Western Assiniboia ex- tends to Kminvie, about 40 miles W. of Medicine Hat. At present it IS more occupied by ranchers raising cattle and sheep than by farmers It IS everj-where thickly covered with a good growth of nutritious grasses (chiefly the short, crisp variety known as "buffalo grass"), which be- comes to all appearance dry about midsummer, but is still green and growing at the roots, and forms excellent pasture both in winter and summer. A heavy growth of grass suitable for hav is found in many of the river bottoms and surrounding the numerous lakes and sloughs The supply of timber on the hills is considerable. There is also an abundance of fuel of a different kind in the coal seams that are ex- posed in many of the valleys. The C. P. R. traverses the central por- tion of Assiniboia from E. to W. Regina is the seat of government The district of Assiniboia, the first of the Northwest Terri- tories, ,s entered a mile this side of Fleming (1,635 miles). Soon Moommin (1,643 miles) is reached, and stages run twice a week from here N. to Fort Ellice, and weekly to the fertile Mouse Moun- tain district on the S. Small stations are passed at regular inter. I :i 282 ASSINIBOIA. vain, but they call for no special couirnent, although at nearly all of them the sportsman will fin'l excellent opportunities for shooting —waterfowl and prairie diicken l)eing especially ahumlant. Hroml view (l,(itt8 miles) is a divisional point, with restaurant at the sta- tion. It is at the head of Weed Lakf, and is an important trading town. In the vicinity is the reservation of the Cree Indians, and it is a common sight to see some of the braves at the station, usually under the care of the mounted police. Our course follows a gradually rising prairie, and but few farms are to l)e seen. Settlers lur the most part, in this vicinity, have shown a preference for the line of the Qu'Appelle River, which is some 10 miles to the N. Pheasant Hills, to the N. of the river, is noted for the fertility of its soil. A little beyond Sinhi- luta (1,728 miles) we approach the Government Farm, > n the N. side of the railway, while on the opposite side are the Canaiiian Alliance Farm and the Sunbeam Farm, both of which are portions of Lord Bras- sey'a colony. The gieat Bell Farm, that occupies an area of 100 square miles, lies on the N. side of the railway. In it furrows are ploughed that are 4 miles in length, and at harvest thci regular staff of laborers is increased by various Indians. It begins soon after leaving hidian Head (1,7^8 miles), where its headquarters are. Qu'Appelle (1,748 miles) is a new town, the supplying and ship- ping point for a large section. It has a population of about 1,000 persons. A good road extends northward to Fort Qu'Appelle, the Touchwood Hills, and Prince Albert, over which a stage runs daily to the Fort, which is 20 miles distant. It is an old post of the Hudson's Bay Company, beautifully situated on the P'ishing Lakes in the deep valley of the Qu'Appelle River, where not only is good fishing to be had but also excellent shooting. There are several Indian reservations in its vicinity, and an Indian mission and school that was established in the Fifties by the Jesuits. The country is wooded beyond Qu'Appelle, but at McLean (1,756 miles) the great Regina plain is entered. This is a broad treeless expanse of the finest agricultural land that extends westward to the Dirt Hills, which are the northward extension of the Missouri Coteau, and lie to the S. W. The next station is Z?trtyo»/e (1,765 miles), near where is a farm of the Canadian Agricultural Company, a corporation chiefly devoted to grain-raising, and whose production in 1891 was 40,000 bushels. Pilot Butte (1,772 miles), that takes its name from a rounded hill in the vicinity, is soon passed, and Retina (1,781 raWes) {Windsor)^ UKOINA TO I'UINCK ALIlKFiT. 288 the Crt|, tal of As.*iniboiii, and <,f the Xortlnvest Ttu-iitoiies, is reaclied. This Important liistiiliiitiiifr point hius a popuhiticm of nearly 2,r.()(). It iti the Uieetiii<,'.phice of the Executive Council of the North v. -st Tcriito- ricM, including As-iniboia, Alheiti. Saskutdiewan, and AthahaHca, and the jurisdiction of th. l.ioiK.'nant-CJovcrnoi, whoso residence is here, extends over all these dist „. it is also tlie hoadcpia iters of the North u'A Mounted Police, a l.ody of 1,U()() picked men, that form the frontier array of the Dominion. They are stationed at intervals over the N. W. to look wr the Indians and preserve order generally. J, Regina to Prince Albert. The construction of important branches is a conspicuous evidence of the enterprise of the C. P. I? and the line that was cotnpleted in 18J»3, for the purpose of opcnm- the fertile valley of the Saskatche- wan is an excellent illustration (.f that fact. Whet, valuable farm lands are niade accessible, immigration soon follows, and market cen- tres develo[) into towns and jiuictions become capitals. The Prince Albert Branch of the C. P. R. extends fiom Regina N. for a dis- tance of 241 miles to Prince Albert in the territory of Saskatchewan. It runs in a northwesterly direction through a (as yet) thiidy popu- lated region, passing at first down the valley of the Wascana Creek, and crossing the Qu'Appelle River at Lnmsdcn (20 miles). The route continues through a bushy country for nearly 150 miles, where fiee lands are steadily attracting immigrants anxious to secure farms. The coun- try is well adapted for stock-raising on a moderate scale, suc.i as would be suitable for mixed farming. The climate is healthy, and an average summer temperature of about 60° is recorded. The stations, none of which have as yet accpiired any importance, are passed at inter- vals of about ten miles. Between Dumhini (1SC> niiles) and Gnndlo,/ {WS miles) the frontier line between Assiniboia and Saskatchewan is passed. At Sad-afoon (160 miles) the South Saskatchewan River is crossed. This place is a divisional point, with a restaurant at the station. It was formerly a police post. The route now turns N. E. and follows the fertile valley between South Saskatchewan on the E. and the North Saskatchewan on the W. Buck Lake (2 1 1 miles) is the most important of the few stations that are passed before rrince Al- bcrt is reached. Here occurred the culmination of the Riel Rebellion that took place in 1885. This place is a small farming town on the S, i^>. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A m// ,,V^ ^"^1^ .& &?^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 •iiilM 112.5 - lifi lllllio L" 1^ 1"'^ 1.8 M. 1 1.6 ^. V] <^ /i >% ^C>1 M Phntnoranhlf: ^Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^r. «* ts, i?.. i/.A % 284 SASKATCHEWAN. bank of the North Saskatchewan River, about 30 miles to the W of he junction of the N. and S. branches of the river. It is the chief own of the Territory and the centre of quite a large fanning district It was throughout this district that in 1884-'85 a few dissatisfied French m./^, or half-breeds invited Louis Kiel, the leader of the Red River Rebellion in 1869 (then living in Montana), to aid them in a con- stit^utional agitation for their rights. He established his headquarters m Duck Lake, and in March set up a provisional government. A body of mihtia under General Middleton was sent to subdue them, but owing to the difficulties in transportation did not reach the point of action until early m April. Several engagements took place, and finally in Barouche, not far from Duck Lake, on May 9th, the decisive encounter uccuiTed and Riel surrendered. He was taken to Regina, where, with 8 ot his Indian followers, he was hanged. Saskatchewan. This division of Western Canada is bounded on the N. by the North >vest Territory and Keewatin, on the E. by Keewatin and Manitoba, on the S. by Assmibom, and the W. by Alberta. It has an area of 107 - ton Tr,r« ;,T.^' '''"''°^ *' *^^ ^^"^"^ «^ 1^91' had a popuh- lon of 11,146 inhabitants. The climate is healthy, being both bracing and salubrious. The average summer temperature is about 60° F The reason of the equability of the temperature in summer has not yet been thoroughly mvestigated, but the water stretches mav be found to ac count for it^ The district is almost centrally divided by the main Sas- katchewan River, which is altogether within its boundary, and by its pnnc,pal branch, the North Saskatchewan, most of whose navigable ength lies within the district. There are extensive grazing plains through which the railway passes in the southern portion, but the gi-eater part of it is rolling prairie diversified by wood and lake. In these parts which are well adapted for mixed farming, the soil is gen- erally a rich loam with clay subsoil, in which grass grows luxuriantly and gram ripens well. The crops consist of wheat, oats, barley, and potatoes. Turnips and all kinds of vegetables are raised successfully The country is well adapted for stock-raising on a moderate scale, such as would be suitable for mixed farming, and any portion of the district wil answer all the requirements for dairy farming. The sportsman will find an abundance of wild game, whether of fin, feathers, or furs i REGINA TO CALQAltY. 285 sufficient m variety to satisfy the most fastidious. At present, settle- ment IS chiefly confined to the Prince Albert and Battleford districts Prince Albert is the N. terminus of a branch of the C P R and the ^. E. corner of the district has water connection by the Saskatchewan River and Lake Winnipeg, with Winnipeg. Prince Albert is the chi^f town. Regina to Calgary. We agam resume our route westward. After leaving Regina the resi- dence of the Lieutenant-Governor is passed on the right, and soon after the headquarters of the Mounted Police. The barracks, officers' qua-- ters, offices, storehouses, and the imposing driU-hall together constitute quite a village. Large wheat fields on either side testify to the rich ness of the .. il. At Pacqua (1,814 miles) a branch line of the C P R extends S. E. through Estevan to the international boundary line at Portal, where connection is made with the Soo line for Sault Ste Marie by way of St. Paul and Minneapolis. 3foose Jaw (822 miles) is a divi- sional point, with a restaurant in the station. Its name is an abridg- ment of the Indian name which, on being literally translated, signi- fies The-creek-where-the-white-man-mended-the.cart-with-a-moose-jaw- bone. We have been slowly but steadily climbing the eastern slope of the Missouri Coteau, and the road winds through an irregular depres sion to the basin of the Old Wives' Lakes-two extensive bodies of water that have no outlet and are consequently alkaline The most northerly and wes.3rly of these lakes is reached at Chaplin (1 816 ■miles). ^ \ > '" The country is treeless from the eastern border of the Regina plain to the Cypress Hills (200 miles) but the soil is excellent nearly every- where The.prairies about and beyond Old Wives' Lakes are marked m all directions by old buffalo trails, and scarred and pitted by their wallows. Antelope may now be frequently seen, and coyotes and prairie dogs. Near Morse (1,396 miles) is a salt lake, and not far be- yond IS Rush Lake, a large ara of fresh water and a favourite resort of waterfowl-swans, geese, ducks, and pelicans-which at times conj^re- gate here in myriads. At Bush Lake (1,913 miles), on the N. side of the Ime, is another of the Canadian Agricultural Company's farms There are a number of these in various districts, aggregating about 105,^ 000 acres. Each contains an area of 10,000 acres, and it is the iuten- tion ultimately to have 4,000 acres under cultivation at each point n ■f .Vil y-A 286 REG IN A TO CALGARY. Sioiff Current (1,935 miles), on a pretty stream of the same name, is a divisional point, with restaurant. The little town is sustained by the numerous cattle runcbes in the vicinity. The principal sheep farm of the Canadian Agricultural Company is here, and a large crop of wool is shipped eaetward each year. The well-appointed farm buildings, in- cluding a large creamery, are on the hills directly S. of the station. Near by is the Government Meteorological Station. From here onward the line skirts the northern base of the Cypress Hills, which gradually rise towards the W. until they reach an altitude of 3,800 ft., and in many places are covered with valuable timber. At Crane Lake (2,000 miles) another of the Canadian Agiicultural Company's farms is located, but is entirely applied to stock-raising. There are large cattle-yards at Maple Creek (2,021 miles), and near the town is a station of the Mount- ed Police. There is still another farm at Kincorth (2,030 miles). The C. P. R. have an experimental farm at Forres (2,030 miles). The satis- factory results obtained from working this and similar farms estab- lished at different points on the line have proved the value of the land for farming. This section has been found to be specially suited to stock-raising. It is rich in the grasses that possess peculiar attractions for horses and cattle, while the valleys and groves of timber afford shelter during all seasons of the year. Finally, the many streams flow- ing out of the Cypress Hills yield an excellent supply of water. From Forres to Dunmore rocks of the Cretaceous age are abundant, in which the remains of the gigantic carnivorous and other animals now extinct are found. At Dunmore {2,011 miles) there is still another of the Ca- nadian Agricultural Company's farms, and it is of a mixed character, for not only are capital crops raised but valuable horses and cattle are bred here. A branch of the C. P. R. extends in a southwesterly direc- tion for 110 miles to Lcthbridge, a lively town of nearly fi,500 inhab- itants in the centre of an important coal region. Indeed, it is the chief source of supply for the country E. to and beyond Winnipeg. During 1892 131,000 tons of coal were rained, half of which was exported to Montana. The Great Falls and Canada Ry. extends S. from Lethbridge to CoutU on the frontier and thence into Montana, intersecting the Great Northern R. R. at Shelby Junction, and finally reaching the south- ern terminus in Great Falls, 199 miles distant from Lethbridge. From Dunmore the train descends into the valley of the South Sas- katchewan, which it crosses by a fine steel bridge 1,010 ft. long at Medicine Hat (2,084 miles), a growing divisional station, with a popula- ] I ( c t t ti b t< e: C SI ALBERTA. 287 tion of something over 1,000 inhabitants. The train stops for 30 min- utes, and the repair shops of the railroad are here. Indians .elling curiosities ure seen around the station, and the Mounted Police have a bureau here. There are deposits of soft coal (lignite) in the vicinity, and the river is navigable at this point ; indeed, small steamers have de- scended the river to Lake Winnipeg, 800 miles to the E. Beyond " the Hat the railway ascends to the high prairie plateau, which extends gradually rising, to the base of the mountains. At Stair (2,092 mile«) the route reaches the first of the Canadian Agricultural Company's farms W. of the Saskatchewan. The train then follows a strong un- ^ade to ^o«,^/ (2,099 mile.), after which it makes a descent to .J- «(2,111 milesj, and then steadily ascends again. Across the prairie to the S. occasional glimpses of the Bow River may be seen In the early summer the prairie may be compared to a billowv ocean of grass with cattle ranches spread over it, and farms, like islands, appearing at intervals. Coal beds lie under the surface, and natural gas is found by boring deep wells. At Langevin (2,119 miles) th- gas is used for pumping water into the tanks for the railway supplv *>om this station on a clear day, the higher peaks of the Rocky Mountains, still 150 miles to the westward, may be se^u with the naked eye. A short dis tance beyond the station we leave the great Territory of Assiniboia and enter Alberta. Alberta. This district is bounded on the N. by Athabasca, on the E bv Sas- katchewan and Manitoba, on the S. by Montana, and on the N by Brit ''i^o^or^'?" '' ^'' ''' "'"^ '* ^^^'^^^ ^^"«^^ '""^«' '^^d a population ot 25,278 inhabitants, according to the census of 1891. Alberta is de scribed as having three distinct surface features-namely, prairie lands on the E., which are thickly timbered in the northern part ; then come the rolhng land or foothills, extending some 40 miles from the base of the mountains, mostly heavily timbered ; and lastly the mountains, con- taming quantities of gold and other ores. The climate of Northern Al berta is like that of Manitoba, though not so cold in winter, and the win- ter IS shorter. The Chinook wind reaches the Edmonton country to some extent and tempers the climate. In southern Alberta the action of the Chinook winds is more direct and stronger than in the N., with the re- suit that the snowfall is much lighter and does not remain on the ground for any length of time. Northern Alberta embraces the fertile 288 ALBERTA. I i ! 1 tract of country watered by the Red Deer, the Battle, tlie North Sas- katchewan, and Sturgeon Rivers. It is a country pre-eminently suited to mixed farming. It is well wooded and watered, and abounds with natural hay meadows. As regards water, there are magnificent water courses, innumerable lakes, mountain streams, and creeks and springs. This district contains millions of acres of deep, rich soil, and possesses beyond dispute some of the best farming country in the Dominion. Southern Alberta stands foremost among the cattle countries of the world, and the unknown land of a few years ago is looked to as one of the greatest future sources of supply of the British markets. Great herds of range cattle roam at will over these seemingly boundless pas- tures. There are on the ranges of Alberta hundreds of herds of fat cattle, which at any season are neither fed nor sheltered ; cattle, too, which in point of breeding, size, and general condition are equal to any range cattle in the world. That Alberta possesses untold wealth in her immense mineral deposits is no longer a m.atter of doubt. For years gold in paying quantities has been found on the banks and bars of the North Saskatchewan River. Deposits of galena have been located which are said to contain a large percentage of silver. Copper ore in enor- mous quantities has also been, found. Iron ore has been discovered in various parts of Alberta. A valuable seam of hematite iron exists at the base of Storm Mountain, and other seams are known to exist in Macleod District in the vicinity of Crow's Nest Pass. As to the quan- tity of the coal deposits of Alberta it is impossible to form any esti- mate. The coal mines already discovered are of sufficient extent to supply Canada with fuel for centuries. At Lethbridge over a million dollars have been expended in developing the coal mines. At Anthra- cite large sums have been spent in opening up the hard coal deposit of that vicinity. Hard coal has also been discovered at Edmonton, semi-anthracite at Rosebud, anthracite near Canmore, and vast deposits in Crow's Nest Pass, in the southern district. Soft coal is so plentiful that the certainty of a cheap fuel supply is assured to Albertans for very many generations. The southern portion of the district is crossed by the C. P. R., and a branch extends N. irrm Calgary to Edmonton, while from Lethbridge on the S. a branch excends to the International boundary, connecting there with the Great Northern R. R. Calgary is the chief town. Soon after leaving Bansano (2,182 miles) we reach the large reser- vation of the Blackfeet Indians, some of whom are likely to be seen ALBERTA. 289 about the stations. The reservation lies to the S. of the rnilwav and the hrst station that is on its boundary is Cr.wfool (2,190 miles) named In honour of a famous Blackfoot chief. Here the Bow River comes dose to the railway as it follows its course through the reser- vation which we leave soon after Namuka (2,218 miles) is passed Meanwhile at Oleiclien (2,109 miles), a railway divisional point the mountams come in full view-a magnificent line of snowy peaks ex tending far along the southern and western horizons. At Langdon (2,244 n.iles) the railway turns into the valley of the Bow River and a few miles beyond Shepard (2,254 miles) the river is crossed by 'an iron bridge and the foothills are reached. Calgary (844 miles) (Alhe^^ta Hotel) IS charmingly situated at an altitude of 3,388 ft on a hillside plateau at the junction of the Bow and Elberon Rivers overlooked by the snow-capped peaks of the Rocky Mountains. It is the most im portant place between Brandon and Vancouver, and has a population of nearly 5,000 inhabitants. Already it has been made a citv, and its business portion is compactly and handsomely built up. The banks are rich and the business interests are large. Fine churches, ample schoolhouses, and well constructed residences make Calgary more of a city of homes than a mere frontier business place. It has a history too, for it is believed to be the place where, in 1752, Niowville estab lished Fort Jonqui^re. There " the old Bow Fort " was built in the im mediate vicinity early in the century, and more recently the Hudson Bay Co. erected a little trading house. Last of all came the barracks of the Mounted Police, to which the name of Fort Calgary was given The Hudson Bay Co. and the Mounted Police still have their stations here. Calgary is the centre of the trade of the great ranching coun- try, and it is the chief source of supply for the mining districts in the mountams beyond. Lumber is made from the logs that are floated down the Bow River, and much of the light-grey building stone that IS used m the city comes from the immediate vicinity. It is also a rail way centre. A branch of the C. P. R. extends 191 miles N. to Edmon. ton, in the valley of the North Saskatchewan River. It is the market town for the farmers, traders, miners, etc., in North Alberta. The town IS well laid out, and on a bluff above it is the fort of the Hudson Bay Co. There is a road running 96 miles N. to Athahmca Landinn a store of the Hudson Bay Co. on the Athabasca River, from where, by means of the flat-bottomed river steamers of the company, a trip can be made down the river to Athabasca Lake, thence by the Great Slave River its "1- III; 290 CALGARY TO DONALD. outlet, to the lake of the same name, and thence by the Mackenzie River, its outlet, to the Arctic Ocean. Edmonton is the most northerly railway station on the continent. There is a branch of the C, P. R. that runs S. from Calgary to Mncleod, a distance of 105 miles, passing through a rich ranching and farming country. From Macleod a branch is being built to Lethbridge. (See p. 286.) I I Calgary to Donald. The ascent of the Rockies begins at once after leaving Calgary. For a short distance we follow the S. bank of the Bow and cross it at Keith (2,2'73 miles). Large cattle ranches are passed, and sometimes we may see great herds of horses in the lower valleys, thousands of cattle on the terraces, and flocks of sheep on the hilltops all at once. Soon Cochrane (2,28? miles) is reached, and we are well within the rounded grassy foothills and " view benches " or terraces. Frequent saw-mills are seen in the valley, and here and there a coal mine. Between Coch- rane and Radnor (2,29*7 miles) we again cross the river, and still rising, reach Morley (2,306 miles), and an altitude of 4,000 ft. Then, to quote Lady Macdonald, " the wide valleys change into broken ravines, and lo ! through an opening in the mist, made rosy with early sunlight, we see, far away in the sky, its delicate pearly tip clear against the blue, a single snow peak of the Rocky Mountains ; . . . but as we look, gauzy mist passes over, and it has vanished." Just before reaching the Kana- naskis (2,318 miles) we cross the river of the same name, not far from its confluence with the Bow, on a high iron bridge, and nearly over the Kananaskis Falls, 40 ft. high, which cannot be seen from the train, although the roar of the falling water is distinctly heard. Soon after leaving the station a bend in the line brings the train between two almost vertical walls of dizzy height, and we enter the Bow River Gap, as the gateway by which the Rocky Mountains is entered is called. On the right are the fantastically broken and castellated heights of the Fairholme Mountains that culminate in Grotto Mountain, 8,840 ft. high, while to the left are the massivs snow-laden promon- tories of the Kananaskis range, of which Pigeon Mountain (7,815 ft.) is the most conspicuous. Gap Station (2,326 mile?, altitude 4.200 ft.) is at the east end, from where we obtain a superb view to the left of Wind Mountains (10,400 ft.), and the group called Three Sisters (9,705 ft). On leaving the Gap the train turns northward up the valley to the Bow ! ;i tl R N 8t Ot h( te P« re 8h by roi ca( alt THE BOOK- MOITOTAIN PAHK OF CANADA. 291 tQde 4,230 ft), where „„ obgervatlon car, speeiall, de-iKncd to all™ ,n unbroken v,.,w of .l,e w„„,lerf„l „ n.ain aeener,, I, attached toth^ t«m ,lur,„K the »e.,„„ from May 1 ,„ October 15. From tlLHl . -.nki,,, p^hle o, the Three S.tera „ „bu,i„od, with WM 1 P "1 Monntam, oom mg „p beyond. On a hill behind atand, a g™ p „, ■solated and c„r,ou,ly weathered conglomerate monumenta. One Uher .de of he heautifnl level valley the mountain, r,,e m «,lid m 1 wctwar. untd the great b„lk of Oa.,eade Mountain cl„,ea the leT Good flahrng .„d .hooting are obtained in this vicinity. The Rocky Mountam Park is entered milea beyond Canmore. The Rooky Mountam Park of Canada. This rectang,dar tract of land, 26 miles long and in miles wide is m western Alberta. It was set apart by the Dominion of Canada ^ I n..,o„a reservafon and ple..,ure resort. I. includes the beautiful Dev,l s Lake and part, of the valleys of the Bow, Spray, and Cascade Rivers. No par. of the Rockies exhibits a greater variety of sublime and pleasmg scenery; and nowhere are good points of view and tZ ure of specMl mterest so accessible, since many excellent roads and br,dle.pa.hs have been made. Boatmg may be indulged in on the Bow R.ver and on the lake, in whose waters excellent Hshiog is .„ be had No shootrng ,s allowed within the Park limits, but Banff fs an exceS s artmg.pomt for those seeking .he pursuit of bear, elk, caribou nd other b,g game that abounds in the vicinity, to say nothing of .he' b" horn sheep Permits for camping may be obtained from the super n- rrX:**^ "'"""""" ^-— aln- Asweenterthe park. Mount Peechee (9,580 ft.) rises to the right di. 72ltmn\ ^r'"!'^ "'"""'-^ '-her progress is cLade sheX. f \ ^^' " I»'P<«"i™l«--. n«»ive precipice front, sheathed w,th a thousand colors which glow in the sunshine," is marked by a slender waterfall trailing almost from brow to base. The valley nar S tt 7]' '"^""' ""■* ^^"'^ -"""•' (2.339 miles, altitude 4 2?5 ft ) ,s reached. Still higher we go, following a defile of the Gas- cade Rtver, and on a widening of the valley is A,MracUe (2,241 mile, •teude 4,350 ft.,. Here are coal mines where true anthrleite" an excellent quahty ,s found, and the output is sent as far E. as Wim.ipeg. 292 THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN PARK OF CAN/ DA. ! Soon the Cascade River leads to the right and opens westward past the base of tlie ('ascade Mountiihis, while to the left the How River bends sharply towards the S, W. ♦hroiigh a wiile break that separates the Rundle Cascade line of peaks. In the triangular space thus formed is 5an/f (2,;i4ft miles, altitude 4,500 ft.), the station for the Rocky Moun- tain Park and the Hot Springs. From the station a superb view of the mountains is pos.sible. To the N. is Cascade Mountain ; to the E. are Mount Inglismaldie (9.87ft ft), and the heights of the Fairholme sub- range, behind which lies Devil's Head Lake. Still farther to the S. the sharp cone of Mount Peechee closes the view in that direction. To the left of Cascade Mountaiii and just N. of the track rises the wooded ridge of Scpiaw Mountain (6,130 ft.), beneath which are the Vermilion Lakes. To the W. and up the valley are the distant snowy peaks of the main range about Simpson's Pass, chief of which is the square, wall-like crest of Mount Massive. A little neaier on the left is the northern end of the Bourgeau Range, and still nearer the Sulphur Moun- tain, along the base of which are the springs. The isolated bluff to the S. is Tunnel Mountain (6,B10 ft.), while just beyond ihe station Rundle Peak rises abruptly, and so near at hand as to cut off all view in that direction. There are several boarding-houses and small shops in the vicinity of the station, but the village itself is 2 miles S. W., on a bold bluff overlooking the junction of the Bow and Spray Rivers. A good road from the station soon brings us to the steel 'm'' Jge that takes tho carriage road over the Bow and we reach the Banff Springs Hotel, built by the railway company, near the line falls in the Bow, and the mouth of the rapid !:'pray River. This hotel, with every modern con venience and luxury, including baths supplied from the hot sulphur springs, is kept open during the summer months. The Grand View Hotel, Bcaftie^s Hotel, and BretVs Stinitarium are smaller and less expensive hotels in the little village, where already a pretty church, a town hall, and a schoolhouse have here been built. It has a permanent population of something over 600 persons. Banff Hot Springs is most favorably placed for health, picturesque views, and as a centre for canoeing, driving, walking, or mountain climbing. Large trout are found in Devil's Head Lake, and deep troll- ing for these affords fine sport. Wild sheep (thu bighorn) and moun- tain goats are common on the neighboring heights. The springs are at different elevations upon the eastern slope of Sulphur Mountain, the highest being 700 feet above the Bow. All are reached by good • t t] s] tl B ai tl ta re (2, is no ea^ ri^ th( cer car arr pes squ alir THE ROOKY MOUNTAIN PARK OP CANADA. 293 roads commonding glorioua landscape,. The more imp„rt„„, ,prta^ have been ,mp,„ved by ,he Government, and pietuLue baS house, have been ereeted and placed under the care of .tZdauta "f on OC.1.., ,s a poo, inside a dome-roofed cave ; and, „e.. btanother spring fo™, an open basin of „m,, sulphurous ;ater. S nee the opemngo, .he railway these springs have been largely visted Id tesfmouy to their wonderful curative properties is pL, ifu, The character of .he water is said to be similar to that of the Ho. Lings m Arkansas United States. There are nun>e™us excursions TS made from Banff, among which the ascent of the mountaZ i„ the vie m.y ,s worthy of mention. Some of these require only a few hours whde others are a matter of several days. Competent guidroan be th,s arduous but fascinating pastime. On resuming the railway we attentmn but some new attraction demands recognition. On .he ri-h. he Vernnhon Lakes are skir.ed, and in fron. „, us Mount Massive and the snow-peaks ,„ the crest, enclosing Simpson's Pass, confronts A sharp turn to the right and the great heap „, snowy ledges that Lm theeastem crest of Pile. Mountain (0,130 ft.) come in view. Then Hole.m.the.Wall Mountain (7,500 ft., is quickly passed on the rlh, the sta.r r* f ■''' ■""''• "'■'""^ "'^'^ "■)• ^ »"'« "eyfnd an (8,850 ft) comes m v,ew on the right-" a giant's keep, with tur- re^ bast™, and battlements complete." CasUe Moumin s.a.iol .s on the right. Here was once a mining camp, called Silver City, but each side become exceedingly grand and prominent. Those on the r^ht form the bare, ragged, and sharply serrated Sawback Range On cent snow-laden promontories. A, m.. only glimpses of .he mounLns can be seen .hrough .he .rees, as you look ahead, but soon .he Ion.- Tk of PUo^v""": •" "'"• ''° *" ""' "" "'°'""« """'' "» -« sol , f ! . ,T '" ""'°' '""' " '""""'"g PJ™"'" Wgh above the square-fronted ledges visible before. Next to it is the less lofty but almost equally imposing cone of Copper Mouutoin (8,500 f..), square ly opposLe .he sombre precipices of CasUe Mountain. Beyond Cop- i 294 THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN PARK OF CANADA. per Mountain, tlie gap of Vermilion Pass (so called because of the yel- low ochre, which the Indians found here and used uh paint or vermil- ion) opens through the range, permitting a view of many a lofty spire and icy crest along the continental watershed from whose glaciers and snow- fields the Vermilion River flows westward into the Kootenay. The long, rugged front of Mount Temple is W. of the entrance to the Pasrf, and beyond is the isolated helmet-shaped Lefroy Mountain (11,- 6G0 ft.) that rises supreme over this part of the range — the loftiest and grandest peak in the entire panorama. It takes its name from General Sir Henry Lefroy, who made the first magnetic survey of Brit- ish America. This great mountain becomes visible at Cascade and from Eldon (2,370 miles, altitude 4,'720); almost to the summit it is the most conspicuous and admirable feature of this wonderful valley. Lag- gan (2,880 miles, altitude 4,930 ft.) is at the foot of Lefroy Mountain. During the building of the road in 1884-'85 it was for a time the head- quarters of the construction of this part of the road, but it is now only the station for the three Lakes in the Clouds. Ponies and vehicles are here in waiting for those who desire to visit these picturesque lakes. Lake Louise, which is the first, is about 3 miles from the station by the car- riage drive, but there is a shorter bridle-path across the face of the mountain. Its altitude is 5,800 ft. On the margin of this beautiful lake there is a comfortable chalet hotel where accommodation is pro- vided. There is a bridle-path to Mirror Lake, higher up (altitude 6,400 ft., or 3,500 ft. above the station) the mountain, and a still fur- ther ascent to Lake Agnes (altitude, 6,700 ft.), so-called in honor of Lady Macdonald. After passing Laggan we cross the river and leave the valley of the Bow to ascend Noore's Creek, a tributary from the W., which comes through a gap in the Bow Range. Looking upward through the gap towards Bow Lake and the huge peak of Mount Hector (named after Dr. James Hector), a view is obtained of the first of the great glaciers. It is a broad, crescent-shaped river of ice, the further end concealed behind the lofty yellow cliflEs that hem it in. It is 1,300 ft. above you, and more than a dozen miles away. With the aid of an extra locomotive the train slowly ascends towards the Kicking-Horse Pass, also sometimes called Hector Pass, through which the mountains are crossed, and at the bottom of which runs the foaming Kicking-Horse or Wapta River, As we reach the summit the gradient comes to a level, and on the left we pass a rustic arch marked ■' !i BRITISH COLUMBIA. 295 " The Great Divide," which indicates the highest point on the C P R The station at the summit is Stephen (2,387 miles, altitude 5,296 ft)' and the point at which we enter British Columbia. ' British Columbia. This, the most westerly of the provinces of the Dominion of Can- ada, 18 bounded on the N. by the Northwest Territory, on the E by Athabasca and Alberta, on the S. by the States of Montana, Idaho, and Washington, and Puget Sound, and on the W. by the Pacific Ocean It has an area of 383,300 square miles, and, according to the census of 1891, a population of 98,1'73 inhabitants. The climate varies consider- ably, as the province is naturally divided into two sections, insular and continental. It is much more moderate and equable than any other province of the Dominion. In the S. W. portion of the mainland and particularly on the S. E. pmt of Vancouver Island, the climate is much superior to that of southern England or c-ntral France. In this sec- tion of the province snow seldom falls, anc hen lies but a few hours or days. Vegetation remains green and th. owers are bright through the greater part of nearly every winter; while in spring and summer disagreeable E. winds, heavy rains, and long- continued fogs are un- known. British Columbia is one of the most important provinces of the Dommion, as well from a political as from a commercial point of view. With Vancouver Island it is to a maritime nation invaluable for the limits of its coal fields can only be guessed at, while enough coal has already been discovered on that island to cover the uses of a century. The harbours of the province are unrivalled, and include Victoria and Vancouver. Its timber is unequalled in quantitv, quality, or variety ; its mines already discovered, and its great extent of un- explored country, speak of vast areas of rich mineral wealth ; its waters, comaiuing marvellous quantities of most valuable fish, com- bine to give British Columbia a value that has been little understood. In proportion to the area of the province land suitable for agricul- tural purposes is small ; but in the aggregate there are manv thousands of square miles of arable soil, so diverse in character, location, and cli- matic influences as to be suited to the p-odaction of every fruit, cereal, vegetable, plant, and flower known to ; ,.t temperate zone. W.' of the Cascade Mountains spring and early summer rains are quite sufficient to bring crops to maturity ; but farther E., in the great stock-raising 296 BRITISH COLUMBIA. . I interior, irrigation is generall)' required for mixed farming purposes, Gold has l)ecn found on the eastern side of the Rocky Moimtains, on Queen (-harlotte Island at the extreme W., and on every range of mountains that intervene between these two extreme points. Among recent discoveries is that of a ledge of cinnabar, found at Kamloops Lake, known as the Rose-Bush Mine. The true vein is reported as be- ing 14 inches thick, but there appears to be a large scattered quan- tity besides. Silver has been found in several places, and its fur- ther discovery will probably show that it follows the same rules as in Nevada and Colorado. The best known argentiferous locality is near Hope, on the Fraser River. Great iron deposits exist on Texada Island and copper deposits have been found at several points on the coast of the mainland, Howe Sound, Jarvis Inlet, Queen Charlotte Island, and other points. Bituminous coal has been worked for many years at Nanaimo, on Vancouver Island, where there arc large depos- its and indications of coal have been fotmd at other places on that island. Several seams of bituminous coal have been discovered on the mainland, and some veins have been worked in the New Westminster and Nicola districts, and other indications of coal have been found in several parts. A most phenomenal discovery of coal has been made in the Crow's Nest Pass of the Rocky Mountains. Here no fewer than twenty seams are seen to outcrop, with a total thickness of from 182 ft. to 148 ft. Anthracite coal is now being extensively mined at An- thracite, on the line of the C. P. R., and some comparing favourably with that of Pennsylvania has been found in seams of 6 ft. on Queen Charlotte Island. In respect to timber, there is no other province of Canada, no country in Europe, and no State in the United States that compares with it. There are prairies here and there, valleys free from wood, and many openings in the thickest country, which in the aggre- gate make many hundred thousands of acres of land on which no clearing is required, but near each open spot is a luxuriant growth of wood. The finest growth is on the coast, and in the Gold and Selkirk ranges. Millions on millions of feet of lumber, locked up for centuries past, have now become available for commerce. In addition to the advantages already referred to, British Columbia offers great attrac- tions to the lover of rod and gun. Of game, large and small, there is a great variety. On the mainland are grizzly, black, and brown bears, panthers, lynx, elk, caribou, deer, mountain sheep and goats, heads and skins of which are the finest trophies of a sportsman's rifle. Water- BRITISH COLUMBIA. 297 fowl, geese, duck etc., are very abundant on the larger lakes, and the«e and .evera varieties of grouse are the principal feathered game, and can *rora Stephen the Ime descends rapidly, passing the beautiful Wapta Lake a Beeior (2,389 m.les, altitude 5.190 ft.), and crossing the deep gorge of the Wapta River, just beyond. The scenery is nofv subUrne and almost terrible. The line clings to the mountain-side at the leTt and the valley on the right rapidly deepens until the river is seen a J gleaming thread a thousand feet below. Looking to the right, one o the grandest mountain valleys in the world stretches away to he N with great wh.te, glacier-bound peaks on either side. In front of us the dark angular peak of Mo.mt Field (8.555 ft.) is seen. On the left the lofty head of Mount Stephen (10,425 ft.) and the spires of Cathe- dral Mount (10,285 ft.), still farther to the left, occasionally appear over the tree-tops. This peak has been not inaptly compared io the Duomo of Milan Soon the slope of Mount Stephen is reached, and on its 800 ft ^T: ^''^ T'' ^^"'^*^'' '' ^^«" ^ ^^'•-"S «'•- g>aei tical cliff T Tu "•"' " ^''" -^ P"""'^ ^""^'^'•^ -^ --a ver.' tical chff of great height. Mount Stephen is named after Sir George Stephen the first President of the C. P. R.. and in 1891, when he was ThlTl *^**".P^«^^g«'h« «hose as his title Lord Mount-Stephen. Ihe works of a silver mine are seen on the side of Mount Stephen «ev eral hundred feet above the road. Passing through a short tunnel, and hugging the baseof the mountain closely, the main peak is lost to vie ' for a few minutes ; but as the train turns sharply away it soon reap pears with startling suddenness, and when its highly colored dome and spires are illuminated by the sun it seems to rise as a flame shoot- ing into the sky. Ri.p1: ''TJ'Tll" "^^^^ "'"^^ '^' pathway and by the Wapta Rw r and then F^eld (2,391 miles, altitude 4,050 ft.), a tiny hamlet on Its left bank, named after Cyrus W. Field, of New York, is reached tlTV T' *'' ''' ^''""'"^ ^''"*^' '' ' comfortable stopping! place for those who desire to indulge in the excellent fly-fishing fo^- trout m the pretty lake near by. The station is at the base of the mountain and Its ascent is usually made from here. Two days should be taken for this, and the view from the summit is superb. Lookin. down the valley the Ottertail Mountains are on the left and the Van fr! T TTZ^" "^'''- '^^^ '"^^^ P^^"^"^'^* ^'^^^ of the latter are Mount De VUle, named after the Surveyor-General of the Dominion 298 BRITISH COLUMBIA. and Mount King, mimed after F. Kinp, a topographer of this region. Two miles beyond Field very lofty glacier-bearing heights are seen to- wards the N. The line ris»es from tlie flats of the Wapta, and after crossing a high bridge over the Ottertail River (whence one of the finest views is obtairiod) descends again to the Wapta, whose narrow valley divides the Ottertail and Van Home Ranges. This range re- ceives its name from Sir William C. Van Home, the President of the C. P. R. The line, which has gradually curved towards the S. since crossing the summit at Stephen, runs due S. from here to Leanchoil (2,410 miles, altitude 3,570 ft.), where the Beaverfoot River comes in from the S. and joins the Wapta. At the left, the highest peaks of the Ottertail Mountains, rise abruptly to an immense height, and, look- ing S. E., extend in orderly array towards the Beaverfoot Mountains. At the right, Mt. Hunter pushes its huge mass forward like a wedge be- tween the Ottertail and Beaverfoot Ranges. The river turns abruptly against its base and plunges into the lower Kicking-horse Canon, down which it disputes the passage with the railway. The canon rapidly deepens, until, beyond PalHser (2,418 miles, altitude 3,250 ft.), the mountain-sides become vertical, rising straight up thousands of feet, and within an easy stone's throw from wall to wall. Down this vast chasm the railway and the river go together, the former crossing from side to side on ledges cut out of the solid rock, and twisting and turn- ing in every direction, and plunging through projecting angles of rock which seem to close the way. With the towering cliffs almost shut- ting out the sunlight, and the roar of the river and the train increased by the echoing walls, the passage of this terrible gorge will never be forgotten. Downward we continue and the train emerges into daylight as Oold- en (2,413 miles, altitude 2,550 ft), at the junction of the Wapta and Columbia Rivers, is reached. It is a little mining town, and is the point of departure for the East Kootenay raining district. In the vicin- ity, and especially at the base of the Spillimichene Mountains, there are numerous gold and silver mines. The bi'oad river ahead is the Colum- bia, and a steamer makes weekly trips from Golden to the lakes at the head of the river, iOO miles distant. After leaving Golden the line turns abruptly to the N., and descends the open valley of the Columbia on the face of the lower bench of the Rocky Mountains, while on the right the Selkirk Mountains, rising from their forest- clad bases, and lifting their ice-crowned heads far into the sky, are in full view all the DONALD TO VANCOUVER. 299 way and the paths of avahinches are dearly indicated by the soft green streaks down their sides. Moherly (2,431 miles, altitude 2,650 ft ) is the site of the oldest cabin in the mountains, where a Government engmeenngparty under Walter Moberly passed the winter of 1871-'72 A few miles through the woods, and then several sawn.ills are passed' after which we soon reach Donald (2,448 miles, altitude 2,630 ft )' the terminus of the Western Division and the beginning of the Pacific Division of the C. PR. This small place is pleasantly situated at the base ot the Dogtooth Mountains, and was long the headquarters of con- struction of the mountain division of the railway. It consists chieflv of various railway offices, with the homes of the divisional officers" The mining country about it, and at the great bend of the Columbia River below, obtain their supplies from here. Here also the time changes from Mountain to Pacific time, which is one hour earlier. Donald to Vancouver. Leaving Donald, the railway crosses the Columbia River on a steel bridge to the base of the Selkirks. A little farther down, the Rockies and the Selkirks, crowding together, force the river through a deep narrow gorge, the railway clinging to the slopes high above it. Emev^. ing from the gorge at Bcavermouth (2,459 miles, altitude 2,510 ft ) the line turns abruptly to the left and enters the Selkirks through the Gate of the Beaver River-a passage so narrow that a felled tree serves as a foot-bridge over it-just where the river makes its final and mad plunge down to the level of the Columbia River. Soon the line crosses to the right bank of the Beaver River, where, notched into the moun- tain-side, it rises at the rate of 116 ft. to the mile, and the river is soon eft a thousand feet below, appearing as a silver thread winding through he narrow and densely forested valley. Opposite is a line of huge tree-clad hills, occasionally showing snow-covered heads above the tim- ber line. Nature has worked here on so gigantic a scale that many travellers fail to notice the extraordinary height of the spruce, Douglas fir and cedar trees, which seem to be engaged in a vain competition wi h the mountams themselves. From Six-Mile Creek (2,465 miles a^^titude 2,900 ft.), up the Beaver Valley, may be seen a bng line of the higher peaks of the Selkirks that culminate in a spire suggesting *he Matterhorn and called Sir Donald (10,662 ft.). A few miles be yond, at Mountain Creek bridge, where a powerful torrent comes down la 300 DONALD TO VANCOUVER. from the N., a Bimilar view is obtained, only nearer and larger, and eight peaks can be counted, the last of which U Sir Donald, leading the line. A little farther on Cedar Creek i.s crossed, and not far W. of it is a very high bridge, spanning a foaming cascade, whence one of the most beautiful prospects of the whole journey is to be had. As Hear Creek (2,474 miles, altitude 3,500 ft.) is approached, a glimpse is caught of Hermit Mountain (9,065 ft.). Here we leave the Beaver River and make the ascent of the Selkirks up Bear Creek. Mountain torrents, many of them in splendid cascades which come down through narrow gorges cut deeply into the slopes along which the railway creeps, are crossed by strong bridges. The largest of these is over Stony Creek — a noisy rill flowing in the bottom of a narrow T- shaped channel 295 ft. below the rails — one of the highest railway bridges in the world. Snow-sheds of massive timber work protect these bridges from the snow in winter. Beyond the bridge at Stony Creek the gorge of Bear Creek is compressed into a ravine, with Mount Macdonald (9,940 ft.) on the left and the Hermit on the right, forming the entrance to Rogers's Pass at the summit. The former towers above the railway in almost vertical height. Its base is but a stone's throw distant, and it is so sheer, so bare and stupendous, and yet so near, that one is overawed by a sense of immensity and mighty grandeur. In passing before the face of '.his gigantic precipice the line clings to the base of Hermit Mountain, and as the station at Rogers's Pass is neared its clustered spires appear, facing those of Mount Macdonald, and nearly as high. These two mountains were once apparently united, but some great convulsion of Nature has split them asunder, leaving barely room for the passage of a train. The station of Rogers's Pass (2,479 miles, altitude 4,725 ft.) takes its name from Major T. B. Rogel-s, by whom the pass was discovered in 1883. The Government has reserved this pass with its magnificent mountain scenery as a National Park. A few miles beyond we reach Selkirk Summit (2,481 miles, altitude 4,300 ft.), and then turning to the left we follow in our descent the slope of the Summit peaks. To the right, surrounded by a pyramidal peak, is Cheops Mountain ; and looking out of the pass towards the W., and over the deep valley of the lUicilliwaet, is Ross Peak, a massive and symmetrical mountain, with an immense glacier on its eastern slope. Below is the deep valley of the lUicilliwaet, and for miles away can be traced the railway seeking the bottom of the valley by a series of curves, doubling upon itself n! ■ I « B ;5 «< g DONALD TO VANCOUVBR. 801 ). ^ B ;5 min and ORaln. D.ro,.tly ahond h tl.e (Jreat Olaolcr, a v.«t plnteau of Kleanung uv .'xtondinK um far aH the «je can roach, as large a8 uU those of Swit/...rh,n.| n.n.bined. Ve continuo to draw noaror and nearer, nntil at a/arhr //onm (2,48;{ niilcH, altitude 4,122 ft ) we are ^ withm Hfteen ,„inute.' walk of it. To the left of the station Sir Donald rises, a naked and al.nipt pyianu.l (!(.,««2 ft). This monolith was named after Sir Donald Smith, one of the chief promoters of the (' P R. farther to the left are two or three sharp peaks, second only to Sir Donald. Ro-ers's Pass and the snowy mountain beyond (a n.en.her of llie Hermit Ran^e, which is .alkxl (Jri/./.ly) are in full view. Again to the IcU comes Cheops, and in the forcK'roun.l, and far down anumg •he trees, the Illicilliwaet glistens. Somewhat at the left of (.'heops a shoulder of Ross Peuk is visible over the wooded slope of the mountain behmd the hotel. The latter, resembling u Swiss chalet, has been erected by the railway for the accommodation of the many tourists who desire to stop over ai this point, (lame is abundant throughout these lofty ranges. Their sum.nits are the home of the bighorn sheep and the mountain goat, the latter being seldom found southward of Canada. Bears can also be obtained. Continuing the descent from the (Jlacier House, and following aroun.i the mountain-side, the Loop is reached, where the line makes several startling turns and twists first crossmg a valley leading down from the Ross Peak glacier, touching for a moment on the base of Ross Peak, then doubling back to the nght a niile or more upon itself to within a few feet, then sweeping around to the left, touching Cougar Mountain on the other side of the Hhcilliwaet, crossing again to the left, and at last shooting down the valley parallel with its former course. Looking back, the railway is seen cutting two long gashes, one above the other, on tlie mountain slope, and farther to the left, and high above the long snow-shed, the Summit Range, near Rogers's Pass, is yet visible, with Sir Donald over- looking ill. The Illicilliwaet River, though of no great size, is a turbulent moun- tain stream whose water is at first pea-green with glacier mud, but clarifies as it descends. After passing Iio,s Peak (2,490 miles, altitude 3,600 ft.) we reach lUiciUlwaet (2,499 miles, altitude 3,593 ft.) near where are several silver nunes, from which large shipments of rich ore have already been made. Just E. of the Albert Canoii (2,505 mi]e« altitude 2,845 ft.) the train runs along .the brink of several deep fissures in the solid rock, whose walls rise straight up, hundreds of feet 302 DONALD TO VANOOUVLB. iiln; i on both sides, to wooded craps, above which sharp, distant peaks cut the sky. The most striking of these canons is the Albert, where the river is seen nearly 300 ft. below the railway, compressed into a boil- ing flume scarcely 20 ft. wide. The train stops here for a few minutep, and dolidly built balconies enable passengers to safely look into the boiling caiddron below. The next station is Twin Bnttc. (2,515 miles), that takes its name from the huge double smnmit near by, now called Mounts Mackenzie and Tilley. Beyond the station on the right is the peak of Clach-na-Coodin, so called after the " stone of the tubs " in Inverness, Scotland. As we approach the western base of the Se?- kirks the valley narrows to a gorge, and the railway and river dispute the passage through a chusm with vertical rocky walls standing but ten yards apart. The line suddenly emerges into an open, level, and for- est-covered space, swings to the right, and reaches Rtvchtoke (2,527 miles, altitude 1,475 ft.), a divisional point on the bank of Columbia River. The town is half a mile from the stution, and is a distributing point for the adjacent mining camps. A branch extends S. from here a few miles to Arrow Ldkc, from where a steamboat runs 165 miles down the Columbia River, through lovely scenery, to Robson. Here a branch of the C. P. R. extends to Nelson, or a steamboat may be taken down the Columbia to Northport, where rail connection can be had for Spokane in Washington. After leaving the station at Revelstoke the Columbia is crossed on a bridge half a mile long, end the 'lold Range is entered by the Eagle Pass. We reach the higaest point at Summit Lake, only 525 ft., above the river some 8 '.niles distant. EJere in close succession occur four beautiful lakes — Summit, Victor, Three Val- ley, and Griffin — each occupying the entire width of the valley and forcing the railway to c^srve for itself a path in the mountain-side. The valley is filled with a dense growth of immense spruce, hemlock, fir, cedar, and other trees, and in consequence saw-mills abound. At Craigellachie (2,555 miles, altitude 1,450 ft.) we have reached the val- ley again, and here, on November 7, 1885, the last spike was driven in the C. P. R., the rails from the E. and the W. meeting at this otherwise insignificant flag station. The train passes on through a forest of dense timber, close to the Eagle River, and reaches on the right the Shuswap Lake. In the vicinity of this lake is one of the best sport- ing regions on the line. Northward, within a day, caribou are abun- dant ; the deer shooting southward within 30 miles is probably unex- celled on this continent, and on the lakes there is famous sport in DONALD TO VANCOUVER. 303 deep trolling for trout. We cross an arm of the lake just before arriv- ing at Sicamou9 Junction (2,571 miles, altitude 1,500 ft) on the S bank of the Great Shuswap Lake. It is t'..e station for the Spallum* sheen mining district and other regions up tho river around Okanagan Lake, where there is a large settlement. A branch of the C P R runs S. 51 miles to Okavagan Landing, at the head of Lake Okanagan' a magnificent sheet of water, on which the staunch steamer "Aber' deen " plies to Kclowna and to Petificon, at the foot of the lake Resuming our journey westward, the line winds in and out the bend mg shores of Lake Shuswap, and the outlook " gives a fine reminder of Scottish scenery." Some 20 miles beyond the station we double a southern extension of the lake called the Salmon Arm, and then strike through the forest over the top of the intervening ridge of Notch Hill that gives Its name to the station on the summit (altitude 1 708 ft ) The view of the adjacent country from this point is remarkably fine' Besides the natural features, the fields and farmhouses with herds of cattle and sheep remind one that we are approaching the coast Near Shmwap (2,607 miles) wo regain the shores of the lake and run for some distance along the Little Shuswap Lake, as this extension is called The lake narrows in a broad stream called South Thompson River and we continue along the valley, which as it widens gladdens our eyes 'with signs of settlement and cultivation that so help to relieve that deep sense of loneliness that almost oppresses one in travelling in a wild country. There are Indian villages in the vicinitv, and their half-civil- ised homes and wealth of ponies are frequently seen, as we reach and pass Ducks (2,638 miles), near which is one of the old ranches that dates back to the times of the gold excitement on the Pacific coast Kamloops (2,655 miles), with a population of 2,000 inhabitants is a divisional point and the principal source of supply for the extensive mining and grazing district of the Thomj,son River Valley It was originally a fur-trading post of the Hudson Bay Co. Its nanie signifies conduence in the Indian tongue, and it is at the junction of the N and S. branches of the Thompson River. In the angle formed by the two branches of the river is an Indian village, and the mountain that towers above It IS Saul's Peak (3,570 ft.). Stage lines extend southward to the ranching and mineral districts that are to the S. in the Okanagan and Nicola Valleys. Just beyond Kamloops the river widens into a broad, beautiful hill-girt sheet of water called K.amloops Lake, along the S. bank of which the railway runs for some 20 miles. Half-way a II 304 DONALD TO VANCOUVER. l\:\\ series of mountain spurs project into the lake and are pierced by nu- merous tunnels, one following the other in close succession. At Savo- na^s Ferry (2,680 miles) the lake ends, the mountains draw near, and the series of Thompson River canons is entered, leading westward to the Fraser through marvellous scenery. At low tide Chinamen and Indians are often seen busily engaged in washing the river gravel for gold. Mercury mines of great value have been discovered in this local- ity. From here to Port Moody the ailway was built by the Dominion Government and transferred to the C. P. R. in 1886. Penny's (2,68*7 miles) is an old- time ranching settlement. Ashcroft (2,702 miles) is a busy town, and the point of departure for the stage lines that run to Cariboo, Barkerville, and other gold fields in the northern interior of British Columbia. Frequent trains of freight wagons drawn by yokes of oxen, and long strings of pack-mules laden with merchandise, de- part from and arrive here. There are large cattle ranches in the vicin- ity, and some farming is done. Three miles beyond Ashcroft the hills press close upon the Thompson River, which cuts its way through a winding gorge of desolation, fitly called Black Canon. Emerging, the train follows the river as it meanders swiftly among the round-topped, treeless, and water-cut hills. At Spence's Bridge (2,728 miles) the old wagon-road up the valley to the Cariboo gold country crosses the river ; and the line crosses the mouth of the Nicola River, whose valley, to the S., is a grazing and ranching region. Beyond this point the scenery be- comes very striking and peculiar. The train runs upon a sinuous ledge cut out of the bare hills on the irregular S. side of the stream, where the headlands are penetrated by tunnels, and the ravines spanned by lofty bridges ; and the Thompson whirls down its winding path, as green as an emerald. At times the banks are rounded, cream-white slopes ; next, cliffs of richest yellow, streaked and dashed with maroon, jut out ; then masses of solid rust-red earth, suddenly followed by an olive-green grass slope or some white exposure. Besides the interest of great height and breadth of prospect there is a constantly changing grotesqueness of form, caused by the wearing down of rocks by water and wind iuto strange forms. Beyond Drynoch (2,734 miles), Nicomen, a little mining town, is seen on the opposite bank of the river, where gold was discovered in British Columbia in 1857. The mountains draw together to a narrow causeway, called Thompson's Caiion, and the rail- way winds along their face hundreds of feet above the river. The gorge narrows and the scenery beco-nes wild beyond description. DONALD TO VANCOUVER. 305 At Lytton (2,750 railes), a small trading town, the canon suddenly widens to admit the Fraser, the chief river of British Columbia that comes down from the N. between two lines of mountain peaks. ' It is named after Simon Frasei-, an early officer of the Northwest Fur Co. The railway now follows the canon of the united rivers, and the scene be- comes even wilder than before. Six miles below Lytton the train crosses the Fraser River by a steel cantilever bridge (said to be the first true cantilever ever built), plunges into a tunnel, and shortly emerges at Cisco (2,151 miles). The line then follows the right-hand Bide of the canon, with the river surging f.ir below. The old Govern- ment road to Cariboo follows the Fraser and Thompson Valleys and is seen on the E. bank of the river. It twists and iurns about 'the cliffs sometimes venturing down to the river's side, whence it is quickly driven back by an angry turn of the waters. Six miles below Cisco where it follows the cliffs opposite to the railway, it is forced to the height of 1,000 feet above the river, and is pinned by seemingly slender sticks to the face of the precipice. The caiion alternately widens and narrows. Indians may be seen on projecting rocks at the water's edge, spearing salmon or scooping them out with dip. nets, and in sunny spots the salmon are drying on poles. Often Chinamen are passed who are washing the sand of the river for the precious metal which they crave even more than food. Aorth Bend (2,111 miles) is a divisional point, and a convenient stopping-place for those who desire to explore the Grand Canon of the Fraser at greater leisure than the rapid movement of the train will permit, or perhaps to spend a short time in shooting and fishing. Comfortable quarters can be had at the little hotel near the station. At 4 miles below the principal caiion of the Fraser River begins, and from here onward for 23 railes the scenery is not only intensely interesting but startling, and has been even described as "matchless." The great river is forced between vertical walls of black rocks, where, repeatedly thrown back upon itself by opposing cliffs or broken by ponderous masses of fallen rock, it roars and foams. The jutting spurs of the cliff are pierced by tunnels in close succession' At Spmzum (2,192 miles) the old Government road crosses the chasm by a graceful suspension bridge to the side of the railway and keeps with it for some distance. The road is now seldom used except as an Indian trail. Just before reaching Yale (2,803 railes) the enormous cliffs apparently shut together as if to bar the way. The river then toakea an abrupt turn to the left, and the railway, turning to the m 306 DONALD TO VANCOUVER. right, disappears into a long tunnel, emerging into daylight and re- joining the river as we approach the station. Yale is an old trading- post and fror.tier town, with some 1,500 inhabitants. It is an outfitting point for miners and ranchmen northward. Indian huts are to be seen on the opposite bank of the river, and in the town a conspicuous joss-house indicates the presence of Chinamen, who may be seen wash- ing for gold on the river bars below. Yale is at the head of navigation of the lower Fraser River, and was once the leading place of the province. After leaving this town the river widens and becomes less turbulent. Soon Hope (2,81*7 miles) is reached, with the village proper on the opposite side of the bank. To the S. W. are the Hope Peaks, where rich silver lodes exist, and only await suitable fuel to be worked profitably. The valley continues to broaden, and well-cultivated fields become more and more frequent. Rnhy Creek (2,524 miles) is named from the garnets found in the vicinity. Agassiz (2,835 miles), overlooked by Mount Cheam (11,000 feet), is the station for the hot sulphur Harrison Springn (St. Alice Hotel), on Harrison Lake, 5 miles X. Near Harrison (2,844 miles) the Hanison River is crossed, just above its confluence with the Fraser. Until the opening of the Fraser route, in 1864, the only access to the gold diggings in the northern in- terior of the province was by way of the Harrison Valley. A few miles beyond Nicomen (2,853 miles) the beautiful isolated cone of Mount Baker (13,000 feet) comes into view on the left. From Mission JunC' Hon (2,86S miles), where the Roman Catholic Indian Mission of St. Mary has long been m existence, a branch crosses the Fraser River and runs to the internatioTial boundary line, where connection is made with the Bellingham Bay and British Columbia Ry. for New Whatcom, Wash , connecting there with the Great Northern Ry. for Seattle, thence by the Northern Pacific R. R. to Tacoma, Portland, and all points in Ore- gon and California. At the crossing of the Stave River, 8 miles be- yond, the finest view of Mount Baker is had, looking back and up the Fraser, which has become a mighty river. Immense trees are now fre. quent, and their size is indicated by the enormous stumps near the railway. On approaching Hammond (2,881 miles) extensive brick-yards are seen. At Ne^o Westminster Junction (2,888 miles) a branch di- verges 8 miles S. W. to New Westminster {Queen\'i Hotel), on the right bank of the Fraser River, about 15 miles from its mouth. New Westminster, with a population of about 8,000, is the oldest city in the region, and was once the capiial of the pfoviace. It containB the Fro- illi f "'^"J.^"^ it and re- 1 trading- outfitting ire to be nspicuous een wash- lavigation ce of the ;omes less ge proper pe Peaks, lel to be cultivated t miles) is 35 miles), r the hot e, 5 miles »ssed, just he Fraser rthem in- few miles of Mount ion Jnnc- F St. Mary and runs i with the n, Wash , ;hence bj ts in Ore- miles he- ld up the ; now fre. near the rick-yards ranch di- the right h. New ity in the ) the Fro- DONALD TO VANCOUVER. 307 vincal Penitentiary and Innane Anylum, the Royal Hospital, a public library, and other similar institutions. The leading schools of the province are here also. It is the centre of the salmon industry, and the several canneries in the vicinity represent an invested capital of over $500,000. There are also extensive interests connected with the saw ing and shipping of lumber. It is a terminus of the New Westminster and Southern Branch of the (Jrcat Western R. R. that comes from New Whatcom, and it is connected by an electric railway with Van- couver. Stean:boats ply regularly to Victo. ia and to other ports on the Strait of Georgia and Puget Sound. Returning to the main line our route bends to the right after leaving Westminster Junction, and with a short run through a wooded district reaches Port Mood,/ (2 893 miles), at the head of Burrard Inlet, an arm of the Strait of Georgia It was for some time the Pacific terminus of the railway. The line continues for the remainder of the route along the S. shore of the inlet At mtervals are mills with small villages around them, while in the in' let are ocean steamships and sailing craft of all kinds, loading with sawed timber for all parts of the world. The scenery is fine Snow tipped mountains, beautiful in form and colour, rise above the N side of the inlet and are vividly reflected in the mirror-like waters Soon after passing Hastings (2,902 miles) the Pacific terminus of the route is reached at Vancouvn- (2,906 miles from Montreal). Vancouver. The principal hotel is Hotel Vancouver, built and operated by the C. P. R. It is on high ground overlooking the harbour, and affords a fine view. Leland Home, Manor Hotise, and Hotel Columbia are like- wise well-appointed hotels with modern conveniences. Vancouver pos- sesses an ideal situation. It rises gradually from Coal Harbor, a widen, ing of Burrard Inlet, and extends across a strip of land to English Bay' thus affording it excellent natural drainage, harbour facilities, and com- mercial advantages, while the Cascade Mountains to the N. afford a pleasant vista. The site of the city was covered with a dense forest until May, 1886, when it was accepted as the W. terminus of the C. P. R. In two months it grew into a place of 600 inhabitants and then it was destroyed by fire. This disaster proved a blessing in dis- guise, for the wooden buildings were replaced by those of brick and stone, and in 1891 the census returns indicated a population of 18,709 308 VANCOUVER. which now (1896) probably cxceeila '20,000. Adjacent to the Vancou- ver Hotel iH the C. P. R. Opera House. Fine churches, notably the Presbyterian and the Jlpisoopal, are worthy of mention. Tiie City Hall, the Custom House and Post-Ollice, the Hank of Montreal, ami the pub- lie schools are aiiioufi; the larger civic and commercial buildings. The private residences have handsome lawns and gardens around them, and Stanley Park (060 acres) has been reserved as a |)Ieasure ground. Elec- tric street railways are running, and the streets aie lighted both by gas and electricity. Opportunities for sport are unlimited — mountain goats, bear, and deer in the hills along the inlet, trout-Hshing in the mountain streams, and sea-fishing in endless variety. Besides the C. P. R. there are steamship lines to Australia, Japan, and ('hina, the Hawaiian and Fijian Islands. Also the city has conuectioi.s with all important points along the Pacific coast. Tiie mail service between Vancouver and Japan and China employs three new steel steamships, called the Empress of India, the Empress of Ja[)an, and the Empress of China, especially designed for that trade. The Canadian-Australian line gives a monthly service to Australia, via Honolulu, H. I., and Suva Fiji. There is a fortnightly steamer to Alaska diu-ing the summer months. Steamers ply between Vancouver and Victoria and Nanaimo daily, and connection is made at Victoria for all Puget Sound ports and to Portland and San F^'ancisco. Vancouver to Victoria. The route to Mctoria is by water. A steamer leaves Vancouver daily except Monday, shortly after the arrival of the transcontinental t.aius, and makes the trip in about 5 hours. The sail is usually a pleasant one, and is certainly a picturesque one. Coal Harbor is soon left behind, and the course is down Burrard Inlet. On the N. is Moodi/viUe, an Indian mission village of some 300 or 400 houses backed by the snow-capped hills of the Cascade Range. Vancouver passes slowly out of sight, and we pass the wreck of the Heaver, the first steamer that reached British Columbia, coming around Cape Horn. The Strait of Georgia is soon reached, and it forms the eastern and northern boundary of Vancouver's Island. Our course is to the S., and on the W. are the mountains on Vancouver's Island, while to the E. is the white cone of Mount Baker (10,810 ft.). Soon we reach Hare .Archipelago, and the steamer winds in and out the numerous green VANCOUVER TO VICTORIA. 300 islands along the line of tlie boundary between the United States and >Canada, Honiethnes called Canal de I faro, whieh in 1H72 was decided by the Emperor of (Jern.any to be the line of demarcation. We have been going .lircclly S, and the peaks of Olympic Mountains are seen on the S. shore of theso.uid, with Mount Olympus and Mount (\mstance towering above the rest. Finally, a turn is made to the right and the Harbor of Victoria is entered. On Mondays connection with Vic- tona id by way of New Westminster. (Appx.ktons' (Juide-Book to Alahka contains much information about British Columbia, and also see Part II of Ai'pi.ktons' (Jknkual V,vwk to thk Unitkd Htatks and Ca.nada.) Victoria (DrHinl, Hotel Dallm, Hotel Victoria) is the capital of British Columbia and the residence of the Lieutenant-Governor. Tt IS on a small arm of the sea, commanding a superb view of the Strait of Georgia, the mountains of the mainland, and snow-capped Mount Baker in the distance to the S. E. Originally it was a stockaded post of the Hudson Bay Co., and was then called Fort Victoria. From the time of the gold excitement in 1858 its growth has been steadv. In 1866 It was made the capital of the province, and in 1893 it became the station of a company of Royal Mari.ie Artillery and Engineers Its population in 1891 was 15,841, and it is now (1895) estimated to be over 25,000. The climate is that of the south of England, and the town IS peculiarly English in all its characteristics. Besides the Gov- ernmer.c offices, built in the Swiss style, the city has many fine public anc! private buildings, among them a large and well-appointed opera -ro are churches of all denominations, including an Anglican M. >, .. The mam. facturing interests of the province are centred at V let. . . iH large iron works, several foundries and machine shops and ma ., ..actories. The city has an extensixe trade, especially of furs" and there are many large commercial houses ^ is amply provided with educational facilities, both public and private. The public schools are supported by the Government, and controlled by a school board elected by popular vote. Besides these there are the Ladies' College under the auspices of the Anglican Church, and an academic institution' as well as a primary school, maintained by the Roman Catholic denora^ mation. There are Protestant and Roman Catholic orphanages The city has a public library of over 10,000 volumes, and several of the fraternal and benevolent societies also have libraries of considerable size. A museum, with the products of the province, is one of the sights 310 VANCOUVER TO VICTORIA. of the city. Beacon Hill Park affords a fine view of the waters and mountains on every side. The Chinese quarter ia always interesting to visitors. A railway extends N. E. 70 miles to the coal mines of Nanaimo. Connection is made with Paget Sound ports daily, except Mondays, and steamships depart about every five days for San Fran- cisco. Steamers from and to Vancouver, for Japan, China, and Aus- tralia stop at Victoria for passengers, and fortnightl in summer for Alaska, visiting the wonderful fiords of the N. coast. EitquimaU Har- bour, 2 miles from Victoria, is the British naval station and rendezvous on the North Pacific, with naval storehouses, workshops, graving docks, etc. A number of men-of-war are to be found there at all times. ; APPENDIX FOE SPOKTSMEN. Tourists who seek Eastern Canada for the sake of sport may look for certain general information which has not seemed to find a place readily in the foregoing pages. In regard to supplies, it may be noted that they can generally be obtained in Canadian cities at a much lower price, for like quality, than in the great American centers. The Ca- nadian dealers have the advantage of a lighter tariff, and they do not charge fancy prices. Tackle of all kinds, of the best Canadian and English manufacture, can be bought in Toronto, Montreal, Quebec, St. John, or Halifax, at figures which would be impossible in New York or Boston. The favorite " all-round " rod of the present writer is a heavy trout-rod with which he has killed some fine salmon. It is made of green-heart and lance-wood, nickel-mounted, and with neat basket- work grip ; and it cost but $10. It was made by Scribner, of St. John. Supplies that are obviously personal are usually passed through the customs without demur. But luxuries like tobacco, with eatables and drinkables generally, are pretty sure to be taxed ; and the trav- eler may save himself trouble by waiting till he is across the border before laying in his stock. Canadian tobacco is but American leaf made up in Canada. As for wearing apparel, that is regarded very liberally, and one may take an ample wardrobe without being ques- tioned. No one wants to smuggle clothing from America into Canada, for obvious reasons. Let the sportsman, then, come generously sup- plied with warm flannels (unless he prefers to purchase these en rmite\ for, however hot the days may be on Canadian fishing-waters, the nights are apt to be chilly. A word in regard to board in private houses. This is usually plain, and always inexpensive. It is not often as high as $1 per day or $5 per week. Throughout the Maritime Provinces, at least, good accom- modations may be found almost anywhere at $4 per week. Guides and camp help ask ivom |1 to $1.50 per day, according to locality. On the Tobique River an Indian guide supplies his services and his canoe for $1 or $1.25 per day, and his board. The variation in the ji I m^i 11 i 312 APPENDIX FOR RPORTHMKN. charge Ih dependent on the season, the guide's humor, and the demand for his seiviceH, On the Rcstigoudio a guide with canoe charges $1.50 a day, and finds himself ; or $1.9a) per day with board. To avoid disap|)ointinonts, tlie tourist should bear in mind that in the provinces of Quebec and New Urunswicl< the best salmon rivers, and numy of the best tiout-waters, arc h'ascd to privute persons or fishing elul)S. Lists of the leased waters are issued annually by the Provincial (Jovernments, and full information on the subject may be obtained by application to the Fisheries (^ommissionera of these two provinces, at (Quebec and Fredericton n'.~,pcctively. Armed with such information, the true sportsnutn will find no diflieulty in getting the hospitality of some of the leased waters extended to him, for a longer or shorter period. In Ontario and Nova Scotia the waters are not leased, as a rule, and the fishing rights rest primarily in the hands of the riparian owners, who, indeed, M>inetimcs lease their privileges. In Nova Scotia sportsmen, as a rule, fish wherever thoy find good waters, without making any minute incpnry into riparian riglits. This freedom is a great convenience to the hasty traveler, who does not make up his mind till the last moment as to the direction of his wanderintri. LIST OP LESSEES AND NUMBER OF FISH CAlKillT BY ANGLING IN THE RIVERS OP QUEBEC DURIN(i THE YEAR 1890. (From the Report of the Comtnissioner of Crown Lands.) North Shore. RIVERS. LESSEES. Godbout 'John Alfred Petit. York Saguenay ( part) Little Saguenay Trinity ' Murray Moisic St. Jean (Chicoutimi) A. Mars Laval Ste. Marguerite (North branch ) Sie. Marguerite (West branch) Thomas Murdoch J. G. Ayhviu Creighton. N. Pendleton Rogers . . . . John 1). Gilinour 1). V. Thomson * Johu Hollida;^ Evan John Price Yoarly rent. WesBonncau, etc A la Truite (St. Maurice) . Pebeloganaug , C.W. Philipps ! Walter M. Brackett I Ste. Marguerite Salmon; Club ! R. Kieonan | Henry E. Hart T. V. R.Brown I $25 5.50 25 405 130 CO 105 180 305 91 85 No. of ■alinnus. 15 oua- naniche No Ashing 113 .32 No Ashing No. of trout. 620 None 1 3.55 69 15 i No fishing 15 10 70 690 50 i * Transferred to W. H. Blake, Toronto, No. of trout. s g g ""620 None 1 ■■■76 090 ■■"56 APPENDIX FOR WPt)KT8MEN. NoiiTii f^nnnn.—iOonHniutl,) did RIVERS. Metabetchoiian (ccntrnl part) MaHtljfoiiche MetnlK'tchiiimii (iippor part)... Tt)iirilli and stc. Aiinot Jucqiit'w-CarliiT 8t. Aiimiftin Littlo Trinity Ktainuinloii '. Washei'oootal '. Jcaniiotfc MlHtnMHilli A la 'rriiitf (Hujriicnav) . Hoc Scic (or Sh('I(lral<{') ('orneillf Dickev iKlamlH of (iranil DlHchanre. Metahetohoiian (lower j)art). (Jrand and Little I'cril)()nl<a , Bf)Hton>iaH Klvi^rodu Loup '.', MistasHini (Lake St. John).. Ir-lands of Lake St. .John. . . . NalaHlujnun DeB Envies [ Shawenigan (pt.) ." Ouiatchouan (part) I.ESSKK.S. E(L Hrewer Mix. Eli/. [Jlanehard .' .' ." AnioH H. Little* Tonrilli F. A U. Clul).. LakcH and If. Janincw earlier E. * (J. Clul).. ('. S. Campbell Ed.'^on Eitcli <l. (J. A. Creinliton |(ipn. W. Y. \V. Hiplev.. "OrleaiiH E. A. (i.Cliih" W. II. Parker Ed. Werner Henri Siniard W. W. Watson .".■.■ Rev. A If. Hevnar H. A. Scot I.." E. Wnrtele II. >l. lieenier T. .M. K.vder Co]. Einley Andernon . .. J. P. Mullarky II. J. Beciner. riia.«. 11. Bntler Arthnr I). Kitchie L. A. Boyer P. 11. Diiinais Yearly runt. IRH 1!U) I8K JiO 15 75 45 55 2U) I.jO !.'5 5 15 No, of •■liiioni. No tlHliinK NollMhinj.' No. of trout. 081 2,485 717 2,504 1,340 Nollfliinj; H 2 115 INollsliinn 10 !NollKhinL' ao 775 10 40 25 liJO 20 20 l.W 10 5 8 • Transferred to the " Penn Fishing and Game Club of + Transferred to W. H. Blake, Toronto. No tlsliing .S54 616 (inebec," Oct. 2, 1800. South Shore. Nonvellc Little Cascapedia RcHtigoucho (flrnt j)art) Kestigonche (second part) Uestigouche (fourth part). Ilestigouche (fifth part). . . , Little Pabos , (rrand Kiver , Spider and .Vrnold Bonaventnro Matapedia Grand Pabos (N. S. B.).. Ste. Anne des Monts Dartmouth Grand Cascapedia .'. Benj. Wey W. M. KaniHHV. Dr. F. W. raiiipliell "Ke«tigouche S. Club". Jaine,'* Poljiuson Samuel Davis Louis Cabot L. Z. Joncas, M.P The :Me<:antic F. & G. Club, P. Q W. lI.Thorne Sir (Jeo. Stephen Henry llogan Stephens W. White H. E., the Gov. -General. $105 255 2.5n 2.S0 101 5 410 CO 100 l,2ryO 2(iO 80 2.50 505 1 ' 186 2 30 550 . 24 No fishing 00 (iOfl 101 00 3 72 21 The following list gives the present le.ssees of New Brunswick waters : Restigouche River : From mouth of Upsalquitch to Toad Brook, IT. B, Hoiljns, of New York ; from Toad Brook to Tom's Brook, Samuel mmi 314 APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN. Thome, of New York ; from Tom's Brook to Tatapedia River, Laines M. Waterbury, of New York ; from Tatapedia to Tracey's Brook, Res- tigouche Salmon Club, of New York ; from Tracey's Brook to Qua- tawamkedgwick, Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, New York ; from I. C. R. R. Biidge to mouth of Upsalquitch, Restigouche Salmon Club, New York ; from below I. C. R. R. Bridge to Flatlands, Micmac Salmon Club ; below Flatlands, held by local lessees, Jacquet River, Samuel Street, of Now York. Upsalquitch : From mouth to Forks, Ezra C. Fitch, of Waltham, Mass. ; remainder of stream and branches, Ezra C. Fitch, of Waltham,' 3Iass. Nepisiguit : From mouth to Indian Reserve, C. B. Burnham, St. Louis, 3Io.; from Indian Reserve to Great Falls, C. B. Burnham, St. Louis, Mo.; from Groat Falls to head of river, C. B. Burnham, St. Louis, Mo. Miramichi : Northwest and branches above Big Scvogle, R. R. Call Newcastle, N. B. Pokemouche River and branches, K. F. Burns, Bathurst, N. B. Big Tracadie and branches, Edward Jack, Frederictoii, N. B. Renous and Dungarvan, M. Tennant, Fredericton, Dungarvan Fish, ing Club. Green River, The Tobique Salmon Club, W. T. Whitehead, Fred- ericton. Tocologan (Charlotte), James H. Ganong, St. Stephen. Kedron stream and lakes (Charlotte), E. H. Bradshaw, Boston. Clear Lake (St. John), James F. Hamilton, St. John. South Ocomocto Lake, W. H. Barnaby, St. John. Tobique and branches. The Tobique Salmon Club. Cain's River and branches, A. S. Murray, Fredericton. Tabusintac River, Thomas R. Jones. THE LAKE ST. JOHN COUNTRY. The management of the Hotel Roberval at Lake St. John controls considerable ouananiche fishing, which is open to guests of the hotel. This fishing is at its best in June and early July, although there is a renewal of activity in September. The late July and August fishing is characterized by more than the proverbial uncertainty of piscatorial pursuits, but there is always trout-fishing as a compensation. The following is a list of fishing-clubs along the line of the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway : APPENDIX FOR SPORTSMEN. 315 Little Saguenay. Talbot (open on payment of a fee). Laurentidcs. Tardival. Stadacona. A. L. Light, Large Lake Batiscan. Tourilli. Metabetchouan. Paradise Fin and Feather. Lake Quaquakamaksis. Springfield Club. Riviere Xoire. Lac au Lare. All these clubs are of comparatively recent formation. On return- ing from the Lake St. John country to the St. Lawrence, the sportsman will find that practically all the salmon and trout rivers flowing into the St. Lawrence, and those in the Quebec peninsula known as Gaspesia, are held by lessees. In some cases arrangements can be made for a few days of fishing. It is always best to make careful inquiries in ad- vance, for the sportsman must abandon the idea that he can fish for salmon wherever the spirit moves him. Trout-fishing, however, is easily obtainab!-, as a rule. As regards hunting and fishing licenses from the Government for strangers, experience seems to indicate that they are rarely insisted upon, at least in the case of the fisherman. Close Seasons. The close seasons for fish and game, in the provinces traversed in this hand-book, are as follows : PROVINCE OF ONTARIO. Fishing.— Salmon, trout, and whitefish between November 1 and 10. Fre.'h-water herring, from October if to December 1. Speckled trout, brook-trout, river-trout, from September 15 to May 1. Bass, April 15 to June 15. Pickerel, maskinonge, April 15 to June 15. Hunting.— No quail shall be taken or killed between December 15 and October 15 following. Grouse, pheasants, partridges between January 1 and September 1. Woodcock, January 1 to August 15. Snipe, rail, golden plover, January 1 to September 1. Swans or geese, Mf.> 1 to September 1. Ducks of all kinds, and all other fowl, Janu- ary 1 to September 1. Hares, March 15 to September 1. Beaver, muskrat, mink, sable, martin, otter, or fisher. May 1 to November ]. Deer, November 20 to October 15. Moose and caribou protected en- tirely until October 15, ]89t^. Quail can not be shot fur exportation or sale, and partridge for exportation until October, 1892 :\U] i\rrKNI)lX VOll HI'omXMKN. No poison wlu) 1ms not been a resident, of this province or Qnobpc for three months next before (Mober 15, ean lull deer, except ho hold a permit from the Commissioner of Crown Lands, which may be obtained for *10. No person shall Ivill more than 5 deer; no two, hnntins tof^ether, more than S; and no party of three or more, more than 12. rHOVINCK OK (^UKREC. FisiiiNo.— Salmon (annlinp;), from AMf,Mist i;i to February 1 ; the same (Hesti^ionchc Uiver), Ani,nist 15 to May 1. Sp.'cklcd tront (Sal. )iio foiitiiiafisX brook or river tront, from October I to .Famiary 1. Onananiche,* from September 15 to December 1. Lar>!;e {^ray trout and lnn.c;e from Oi-tober 15 to I)ec(Mnb(>r 1. i'iekerel (.loro), from April 16 to May 15. Hass and maskinon;,^', from April 15 to June 15. White- iish, from November 1(» to December 1. N. H.— An-ilin-:; by hand (with hook and line) is the oidy means permitted to be used for takin;j; lisli. (No person who is not domiciled in the province of Quebec can at any time fish in the lakes or rivers of this province, not actually under lcas(>, without havinfj; previously obtained a permit to that effect from the Connnissioner of Crown Lands. Such permit is valuable for a fishin--; season, and is not transferable.) Hun riNc:.— Caribou, from February 1 to September 1. Deer, from .lanuary 1 to October 1. N. H.— The huntinjj; of moose, caribou, or deer, with dogs or by means of snares, traps, etc., is prohibited. No jierson (white man or Indian) has a ri-iht, durinp; one .reason's hunlinf,', to kill or take alive —unless he has previously obtained a pennit from the Connnissioner of Crown Lands for that purpose — more than 3 caribou and 1 deer. After the first ten days of the close season, all railroads and steam- boat companies and pubi; > carriers are forbidden to carry the whole or any part (except the skin) of any moose, caribou, or deer without being authorized thereto by the Connnission(>r of Crown Lands. Heaver, mink, ottei', martin, pckan, from A])ril 1 to November 1. Uare, from February 1 to Novend)er 1. Muskrat (only in the counties of Maskinonge, Yamaska, Richelieu, and Herthier), from May 1 to April * The original Fiidian name of tliis remarkable fish is ouananiehe. The common pronunciation of the word is " wininish," and this spell- ing is often adopted. The word sometimes apjjears as " winninish " aud '' wananish," APJ'KNDfX J.'()1J HPORTOMKN. .117 ollow.n,^'. VVo,„lc,K.|<, .snip,., par.ri.lj.,, „f „„y |,i,„,, f,,„„ k,,,,,,,,, to S.,>U.,Ml...,. , lUarU .luck, t.ul, wild dnok „f any ki,.,! (.x.-opt u,Mn.kc. and .-ndl), In,,,, May I to S.-pi,..,.!.,.,- 1. (A„d ,tt any tin.o of the year, botwc.n on,. |,o,n- alt,.,' suns,.) an.l o,„. ho,„. b.-Jon. sunris,. and also to kcx-p ...xposcl ,l„nn- s„d. p,„l,il,i„.d |„„„.s, l,„,.s or .hrovs' etc.; «unH of la,^... I.o.v ,|,an No. 8 pn,l.il,i,c.|.) Hinls known aJ IK>rcl,o,-H, s,u.l, an swallows, kin^.i.inls, wa,blc,.H. fly-calchc-H, wocl- IHH-kcrs, wl.,p.poo,.wills, fi,„.|„.s (so,„.spa,n.ws, ....ihinls, indigo hinls c),<.,,w-.„n,n,.s, ,i,,„i,,, f,„ld(i„..l„.s,;,Miv,.s (.ohius, wood.U„ush,.s' etc ), k.n^dets, lmlM,Ii,d<s, ^nakl,.s, f,M„ssl.,.aks, I„„„„m,..|,i,,js ,.„..k..os' owls etc., except ,.a^d,^., falcons, hawks, a„,l oth,.,. hinls of'th. Fa/' connl^r, wil,l pi^,.o„H, kin;.|isl„.,s, c,«ws, nivcns, wax-win^^H (rMUs) shnk,.s, jays, „,a;,n,i<.s, Mpa,.n,ws, an.l sta.linfrs, fn,„. Ma.ch 1 to S.-n- teinhc,- I. To t.ke ncs.s o,- cgj^^s of wild ,h.ck, teal, wil.l goose, ,>r swan iH prohd)it('d. N. H.-Fine of $2 to .$l(,n, o,- inip.isonn.ent in ,lef,i,ilt of payna-nt No pc..son who is not do,nic-il.:.l in the pn.vinc,. of (^nchcc, nor in thai of Ontano, can at any tin.o h.u.t in this p.ovince without havin-^ pr-c- viously obtain,.,! a li,.,.nse to that ellV.-t fn„.. the (Jo.unussio.'ier of Crown Lan,ls. Such p,.,n.it is nut t.ansfen.bl,-. Tl„; export of deer wdd tu,-keys, quail, an,l pa,-tri,lf.c in caicasses or parts then.of f,on. the Dominion at any time is i,n,hibited. Penalty, $loo and forfeiture. PROVINCE OF NEW BIUJNSWK'K. S„ooT.N«.-It is unlawful to hunt, take, kill, or wound any moo.se deer, or red dee.-, chning three years after Ap.il 0, 1888, under a pen' alty ,,ot c.xcee.linf5 #200, nor less than *!.)(). Heaver, otter, mink, .sable, and hsher May 1 to S,.pten,ber 1. Grouse or partridge, December 1 to Septen.bcr 20. Woodcock, December 1 to Scpteml,er 1. Snipe March 1 to Hepten.be.. 1.^.. Hhick ,luck, woo.l .h.ck, and teal. May I to September 1. Other ducks, b.ant, geese, a..d other wate.-fowl shall not be hunted with a,-tificial light, ,ior with swivel nor punt .^uns or t.-apped or netted at any tin.e. Sea-gulls are pn.tected in tl.J' pa.'ish of (..•and Manan at all seasons; song-birds and in.sectivo,-ou8 birds en- tirely p.otectcd. No pe.-.son not having his don.icile in the province of New n.-unswick shall be entitled to hunt ,n- kill anv ga.ne bi.d or animal, or fur.boa.'ing a.iin.al, in tin- province without a license, which n.ay be obtained fn,.n the Provinual Sccretarv. F.-e,Jericton \ I] or iro.n J. De Wolfe tipurr, Bsq., Chief Game Con.missioner, St. John 318 APPIONDTX FOR WPoKTSMEN. N. H., by payment of a foe of $'iO — licciiPo to he in fori-o for one year from tlio 1st (luy of SeptiMubor in ciidi year, Ollleei'S of her Miijcsty'a 801'vico can obtain a license foi 15. NKW IHUTNHWTCK AND NOVA S(;OTlA. f^KSHiNG — Salmon (n('t-fishin<>), Aufi;tist 16 to March 1. Salmon (an<i;linf;), September Ifj to Kcbniary 1. Sabnon (Keslif^onche Itiver), An<?ust 15 to May 1. Speelded trout, October 1 to Ai)ril 1. Large gray trout, lunge, ouananlche, and landlocki'd sahuon, October 1 to April 1. Sea-bass, March I to October 1. Smehs, April 1 to July 1. Lobsters, July 1 to December 81. Sturgeon, August 31 to May 1. Oysters, June 1 to September 15. The use of explosives or poisonous substances for liilling fish is illegal. From the time of low water nearest six o'clock in the afternoon of every Saturday to the time of low water nearest six o'clock in the fore- noon of every Monilay, no one shall fish for, catch, or kill salmon in tidal waters. In non-tidal waters frequented by salmon no one shall fish for, catch, or kill ."^almon or any other fish between nine o'clock in the even- ing of every Saturday and six o'clock on the following Monday morning. THE NET RESULT The Intercolonial Railway of Canada. Wlmt CirAHLKH DlJDLKY WaiiNKR sill' ..l,-.Mf*l ^- Uko. i„ C. Breton .,„„, .hr,XZ;,;;:r,LiX ""' '" "'"' icngii,, „i„,ii„K „,„„,„i (,,„ ■,„„„ ijzzxi So r; I'" • ""''•'" IMint, «c came upon a Bi.'ht llml i„, I „n .1 *" '"' """""li it" wa« tile famous IllaH d'or "'" "''"''' ""' "' <"■ Tins could 1,0. If ,l,„ rlX .i "ke tl ,, T"'" ," '""'^ "' """ *»"■■• e«.u„,.ie», .1,0 ,;,.eat and illf «,t ',' 'S,: '^ J |"' 7";"":'°" Breton on I he lairL'od noitlieimf ,.n,.«f ,>j ' A ^ '""" *^^ ^'"P« flow in, ut Icw-^'th'tlde ^g " u ;« ;.m^^ '^•"J The water seeks ont all tt low Ic'^,^^ "' ""' '"''^"'^• ning awuv into lovely I. h T, d toor^s I ' '"/'''i ""'''''"'•' «•"»■ land Hnd-,,ielures,,uei lands LhS^^^ '""«"«« "^ land, to thi reuu>te^..unS; Sr s J: S i;:;:;^ M '■'«'""" •;' *^'^" and the fi.sh and the n.olluHk.s of L -in v He^ t .' ' ■'!',''''' ^^ "'^">^' ress of a fresh-water lake with aM 1 Lv Ital of a' u P'""'"!*" the strean.H wl.ieh run into it are the speckk m,,t 1. f\ ""''•. f" Balmon ; out of its depth, are hooked the odnnH 1"'^' .''"'' *''"' its bays fattens the oy.ter. S ite 1" ,X • ' "/'-^^ miles long, if you measure it sk llf lit^ -^ '" ''''"'" "^ '"'ndred broad , but so' a, en e it th i ^' "'!'' '" 'T' ^''^^''''^ *«" '""es as we were in o med to ri. e a n .« /"'*,"''" '^"' «"^' "'^"''^ "e«d, ingall itsincursiZlAt^thelld^^^ "'"^'^ *" ^o round it, follow-' " What wo first saw was an inlet of tfw. n,.,^ vf n , . driver Hogamah Bay At its enf .nm./„ ^^ "' '"''"^^ ^y the beyond which ^o .aTtl/oh:X,o^^^^^^^^^^^^ -lands, some poetic seacoast. The bay nanowrtl /i '"'^"'./'K^' ^^e capes of we eame upon it, and ran everal m les in un?l V' '" ^'^^'^ ""^^'^ head of which we must -o Ormosnn l^« fj -n'^ '"'TP' ''«""'' ^^e had my suspicions from the beSi ' rC. th'"""" "^ ""^«'"'^»'- ^ the driver-who was libe allvVrnolf ff this name, and now asked ' Hogamah ' : Wh^-ko kSgl./' ''''^'' ''' ' dr.vcr-how he spelled What the distinguished writer said of the mairnifi..onf tj, t m„.e JaSwh h't ;„t™™i:; "itvr/' 'r'"« ■'" •■™'' - - them iB known as the lat^at hodv^ r f i, /"" '" '''™' ""'« °"« "f lakes of Switzerland, Need we sav fh.t tl, a .' 1" I"'™ »' ">« St, Uwreneef-the nobtet, the pnre«, ""^Tn"^-,", . 'l"'" " "f GkKl'S 'beautiful earth.'" ^-^' — ^ encnaiitin-nver on all The Queen's Hotel. The leading hotel of Toronto is the Queen's. This old-established house is one ot the best appointed and most carefully conducted estab- lishments in tht Dominion. It is located on Front Street, where its windows connnand a line view of Toronto Kay and Lake Ontario. In the rear there is a spacious lawn with flowers, shadf-trees, and fountains. The hotel contains 200 rooms. The space devoted to public rooms is ample, and the upper floors are admirably planned, the rooms being huge, light, and arranged in suites to suit all requirements. In every room of the hotel there is an open flreplace, insuring perfect ventila- tion. The furnishinent is of the most substt. ■'. • ' "pj, ail me standing furniture being of solid walnut and mahogan^, y room has uphol- stered furniture, and the carpets, draperies, L v ;urtains, etc., which go to make the rooms attractive and homehke, are of superior quality. The public rooms, including the office, smoking-roums, parlors, reception- rooms, and dining-rooms, are attractively appointed and well ordered. Niagara River Line. A trip to Niagara Falls is not complete without seeing the Niagara River and its beauties. The noted steel steamers of the Niagara River Line have been specially constructed of the highest class of British design and workmanship, and are the fastest steamers on the lakes, with°cabin equipments designed here and adapted to the modern ideas of this continent. From Toronto, the steamers cross Lake Ontario, a distance of thirty-six miles, and enter the mouth of the Niagara River. The points on the entrance are occupied on the United States shore by Fort Niagara, held during the past three hundred years in turn by French, British, and United States garrisons ; on the Canadian, by Fort Missamuga and Fort GVor^e, taken and retaken in the War of 1812-'14. Niagara-on-the-Lake is a favorite summer lakeside resort with sum- mer hotels, and now, with its many summer residences, become a suburb of Toronto. Niagara Falls station of Mie Michigan Cential Railway is in the Canadian National Park. All trains stop Kve minutes at Falls View, where, from a spacious platform just above the Horse- shoe Cataract, a most magniticent view of the Falls is obtained. After making the first landing at Niagara-on-the-Lake, the steamers then continue for seven miles farther along the river. The Queenston Heights tower high above the surrounding table-land. On the summit stands out the grand column of Brock's Monument, erected to the memory of the victorious general who fell at the battle fought here in 1812. These cliffs form the place where the Falls once were. Through this " Gorge " the confined waters now struggle. Lewiston is the point of connection for the American side of the river, and change is made to the trains at the foot of the Rapids, The New Yoi-k Central Railroad has extended its tracks, and the trains pass along a ledge cut in the side of the cliff, following the wind- ings of the river, and giving unexampled views of the whole length of the rapids aud the weird and "oaderful scerxcry iu the caiion of the Niagara, CARDS OF LEADING HOTELS. By referring to the advertising pages the traveler will find full information of many of the leading Hotels, as also Bankers, Railroads, Stean.boats, etc. BOYDEN, VA. BUFFALO LITHIA SPRINGS HOTEL AND COTTAGES. Thomas w GooDK. First claBB in all ite appSment^' and in a region famous for its iiealtiiful- ness. Open from June let to October Ist H" BUFFALO, N. Y. [OTEL IROQUOIS, r^^..^ 1 *^ooLLEY & Gerrans, Proprietors. The leadmK hotel in Buffalo, fhe only absolutejr flre-proof house in the city • metropolitan m its structure, arraneements' equipments, ana management. American and European plans. Most central location! CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. (n^m??L^^^ MOUNTAIN HOUSE. of thPT^fSi,^''""*'*'."^' e'Fht miles west ?hi .1. ""^"P^'^*^'' ""*^ twelve miles from the vil age of Catskill, N. Y. It has accom- ™«fations for 400 guests, and is the largest and leadmg hotef of the CatslciU region. Open June SOth to September -.JOth. great stftS'lnir^'^'^'A .^T Otis elevator from station to House, bringing the House within SlJr ^^ ^'"■''- ^^°^ ^Of "'f- C. L. Beach, Proprietor, Catsliill, N. Y. CANADA. CLIFTON HOUSE, P«rt ^J^^^^,^ ^^^^^- directly fronting the wt ^servations Sanitary condition per- nor ;i ^^^ ^P'"*^ ^™'" the Falls lieeps the ri^M 'Y*y/ J'"?''^- Th'« Ho»«e, situated di- Sinta es""" ^*"' ^^^^^^''^ s"P<'"or G. M. CoLBURN, Proprietor, Niagara Falls. AVENUE HOUSE, tr«i ^JI:^ *^*=^'" College Avenue. Cen- tral location ; ronvenient for business or per day. ;f E, S. Reynolds, Proprietor. CANADA. OT. LAWRENCE HALL, t£, Montreal, For upward of thirty-flve years the name of the St. Lawrence Hall contiS '"Th '"{; V','^1' travelers"on ?hii continent. The hotel is conveniently sit- of*M,n? *'',*' •»"J"".* "^ the business center erafcrniir'' '^ contiguous to the Gen era Post-Oftlce and other important public iSt afd mW IJf^'*^'^ ^y the eCSc light, and fitted with a passenger elevator Ihe hotel IS under the personaf supervision of the proprietor, Mr. Henry Hoolii. THE QUEEN'S, .r.r. f'^?^^^'^'!- Celebrated for its home and r^n.?!;i-''* *i'"ft' good attendSn™! ?» u u.H. P?cul ar excellence of its aiieine Delightfuliy sUuated near the bay on pS Street, convenient to business center rail- road depot, steamboats, etc. ' McGaw & Winnett, Proprietors. EUREKA SPEINGS, ARK. rpHE CRESCENT HOTEL. -L. It is in the midst of the numerous «pnngs, and is conducted for comfort Sf LENOX, MASS. /CURTIS HOTEL. fhP^mi^*'i^ magnificently located house. In nil tlTJ'^''^ ""^ the Berkshire Hills is open a^l the year round, All modem improve- ments and conveniences. W. D. Curtis, Proprietor. NEW HAMPSHIRE. THE KEaRSARGE, North Conway, N. H. The hotel is iSSr ^ ^\^^' ^'*^^''*t'"" "verlookffihe i}}Z^\l^l^''^.S^^}\>^^<iirig one ol^ the AU fL ^^'^ "^ ^^^ ^^hite Mountain range. All improvements. ( >pen June to October. L. J. RicKBR, Proprietor. Ill CABD8 OF LEADING HOTELS.-(Contlnned.) m iii LEBANON, MO. HOTEL GASCONADE. Flrst-claHs house, with all modem improvenients and conveniences. NEWFOBT NEWS, VA. HOTEL WARWICK, On Hampton Uoade, eight miles above Old Point Comfort and twelve miles Irom Norfolk. A new brick buildina, com- manding extensive marine, river, and in- land views; elegant and complete in its appointment ; elevaton*. steam heat, open fireplaces, artesian well, tliorouah drain- age ; natural park and pleasure-ground ; pier 300 feet long, with handsome pavilion; separate music and ball-room on the bluff; billiardaaiid bowling-alley ; a sloping beach miles in length ; iniereBiing drives. Open all the year. J. R. SwiNEBTON, Manager. NEW YOBK. FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL, Madison Square. The largest, best appointed, and most liberally managed hotel in the city, with the most central and delightful location. Hitchcock, Dablinq & Co. GRAND UNION HOTEL. Passengers arriving in the City of New York via Grand Central Depot save cuiriage-hire and transfer of baggage by stopping at the Grand Uniov Hotel, opposite the depot. Passengers arriving by West Shore Railroad via Weehawken Ferry, by taking the 42d Street horse-cars at ferry entrance reach Grand Union Hotel in ten minutes. tiOO rooms, 11 and upward per day. European plan. Guests' baggagj delivered to and Irom Grand Cen- tralJDepot free. Ford & Co., Proprietors. HOLLAND HOUSE, Fifth Avenue and Thirtieth Street. Positively flre-i)roof. European plan, $2 per day and upward. H. M*. Kinsley & Baumann, Proprietors. PARK AVENUE HOTEL. Absolutely fire-proof. European plan, $1 per day and upward ; American plan, $3.50 per day and upward. Park Avenue, 32d and 33d Streets. W' m. H. Eable A Sov, Proprietors, New York. Free bag- fage to and from Grand Central and Long sland Depots, ^ ST. DENIS HOTEL, Broadway and Eleventh Street, New York, The new addition, with its beauti- ful Colonial Dining-Room, has made this well-known house more popular than ever, and in appointments, decorations, and mod- ern equipments it is now, pai' excellence, one of the leading hotels of the metropolis, William Taylob. THE KENSINGTON HOTEL, Fifth Avenue and Fifteenth Street, European plan. First class, S, J. O'SuLLivAN, Proprietor. NIAGARA FALLS, N. Y. THE CATARA(;T HOUSE. One of the Injst known hotels at Niag- ara. Improvement in its appointment of cuisine and service. Under new and pro- gressive management. Adjoining State Reservation, and directly opposite Goat Ifeland. For terms, address J. E. Devbbbux, Manager. HOTEL KALTENBACH, Fronting State Park and Rapids. American pian. Open the year round. A. Kaltenbach, Proprietor. PITTSFIELD, MASS. rpHE MAPLEWOOD. ± One of the largest hotels In the Berk- shire Hills. Open June to November. SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. r^ RAND UNION HOTEL, vjr W^oolley & GsRRANS, Proprietors, Is the most magnificent summer hotel in the world. It is in the finest location, and ad- jacent to the most famous springs. Splen- did orchestra. Fourth season under pres- ent management. WASHINGTON, D. 0. RIGGS HOUSE, Washington, D. C. Reopened under new management ; refurnished and redeco- rated in first-class style ; table the best in the city, Riuas House Co.. Proprietors, G. DeWitt, Treasurer, WEST POINT, N. Y. TTTEST POINT HOTEL. VV The only hotel on the post, -i Albert H, Cbanbt. 1 street, New ith ite beauti- as made this lar than ever, ans, and mod- fXceUence, one itropolis. itropi M Ti AYLOB. PEL, eenth Street. Proprietor. K. Y. lOtelB at Niag- pointment of new and pro- loining State pposite Goat s, Manager. and Rapids. ar round. Proprietor. B in the Berk- 5, N. Y. Proprietors, is r hotel in the ation, and ad- rings. Splen- a under pres- D. 0. ;opened under ;d and redeco- >ie the best in Proprietors, TT, Treasiirer. r. Y. post, --i H. Cbanbt. THE ITERCOLOML OF CnNflDfl. THE 3HORT LINE BETWEEN QUEBEC, HALIFAX, ST. JOHN, and SYDNEY, C. B AND CONNECTING AT '* POINT DU CHENE, N. B., and PICTOU N S FOR P- E. ISLAND, "The Garden of the Quif " The Popaiar Roiife for Sliuimtr Travel Pure *ir, Splendid SeaBathing, and a Perfect Panorama of Delightful Views A PERFECT TRAIN SERVICE. Cabeful and Poutk Attendants SAFETY. SPEED. AND COMFORT. FAST TIME AND LOW FARES lU high standard of exceUence has been established by years of careful conHd^ration of the requirements of the people. <!onna«ratton of R OUND ^ Tourist Tickets, TRIP * Sk**^^^*" Excursion, and JJUlI VJea-Bathing Tickets, Mat. 1895. MONCTON, N. B., CANADA. DEBEC STEAMSHIP CO MPANY. MONTREAL, aXJEBEO, NEW BBUNSWIOK, FRINGE EDWARD ISLAND, AND NOVA SCOTIA. A Htcamer of thin .ine leaven Montreal and Plctou, Nova Scotia, alternately every Monday, callhif,' at (iut'lHJc, hurther Point, Uasp^, l*erc6, Hummer-Hide, and Charlottetown, Prince Edward iHland. Kxcuraion tickete and conneetionH to all parts of Canada, the United States, and Newfoundland. Ttie route offens special attractionB to tourists during the summer months. BERMUDA ROYAL MAIL LINE. The magniflcent new powerful passenger steanicrs Trinidad or Orinoco, now on this route, leave New York and Bermuda alternately every Tliursday, from January to June. St. Thomas, St. Crobc, St. Kite's, Antiffua, Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, and Barbadoes. The magnificent new powerful passenger steamer Madiana (3.0.''.0 tons), with the Carib- bee, Bermuda, and Muriel, form a line to these islands, leaving New York every ten days. Tickets for Bale at all the principal Ticket OfHces in the United States and Canada, and at Thomas Cook & Son's Ticket Offices, 261 Broadway, New York, and agencies of R. M. Stocking A. E. OUTERBRIDGE & CO., Agents, 39 Broadway, New Vork. ARTHUR AHERN, Secretary, Quebec, Canada. Northern Steamship Company's Exclusively Passenger Steamships NORTH WEST and NORTH LAND, Unequaled, except in size, by anything afloat. EXCURSION TRIPS OUT OF THE BEATEN PATH. In connection with the GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY, the delight- ful and dustless route across the Continent. Summer Travel made Com' fortable. For time-tables, rates, and full information, address L. W. liAKE, Gen'l Agt., 375 Broadway, New Tork G* TlTTrflT TITO rf^m^n A,^*. Oil flTn »Kt^.~A^~ OA "O^*^^. E. D. SPENCER, Geii*l Agt., 48 South Third St., Ph Or of A. A. HEARD, Gen'l Pass. Agt, Buffalo, PANY. I The Eicheiieu & Ontario Navigation Co. PRINCE A. y every Monday, ottetown, Prince ada, the United ow on this route, June. Dominica, with the Carlb- very ten days. 1 Canada, and at jencies of R. M. New Vork. ny's PS LAND, »at. PATH. i, the delight- made Com- GENERAL OFFICES: 228 St. Paul Street, MONTREAL. Cobourir, Kingston, Clayton, Alexandria Bay, and otluT intermedials ports, arriving ROYAL MAIL LINE Botween Toronto, Kingston, Montreal and intermediate ports, composed of the following ttrst-class iion steamers: "Hpartan," "Corsl- ciin," "Passport,"' and "Algerian " Leaving Toronto daily (Sund-^ys excepted) at 2 o'cloclc p. M., call iig at BowmanTille, Port Hope, at Montreal at ti.IW p. m., connecting with hleiiiners lor Quebec and the Sa^r-ienay. All these steamers pass through the enchanting scenery of the .Lalie ot the Ihousand pass Islands and the exciting Rapids of the St. Lawrence. THE MONTREAL AND QUEBEC LINE, Composed of the magnificent large iron steamers "Quebec" and "Montreal." Will leave Montreal daily (Sundays excepted) at 7 o'cloclc p. m., calling "t intemediate points, and arriving at Quebec at 6.30 the following morning, connecting with the steamp'.s for the Saguonay and the intercolonial Railway for places in the Maritime Provinces. SUNDAY SERVICE.— Commencing June 2d, steamers will leave Montreal and Quebec at 3 o'clock p. m. every Sunday, until September 1st. THE SAQUENAY LINE, Composed of the beautiful iron steamer "Carolina," the splendid steel steamer "Canada," and the fine steamer " Saguenay." Leaving Quebec on the mornings of Tuesday, V\ edues- day, Friday, and Saturday, at 7.30 o'clocli. TICKETS and all information may be obtained at the principal railway offices In the United States and Canada. JOB. F. DOLAN, Agent, 2 King St., East, Toronto. L. H. MYEAKD, Agent, Qnebeo. H. FOSTEE CHAFFEE, District Passenger Agent, 128 St. James Street, Montreal. ALEX. MILLOY, C. F. GILDERSLEEVE, Traffic Manager. General Manager. General Offices, 228 St, Paul Street, Montreal. alo, N. N, Familiar Flowers of Field and Garden. By F. Schuyler Mathew.s, Illustrated with 200 Drawings by the author. l2mo. Library Edition, cloth, $1.75; Pocket Edition, flexible morocco, $2.25. IN this convenient and useful volume the flowers which one finds in the fields are identified, illustrated, and described in familiar langiiage. Their connection with garden flowers is made clear. Particular attention is drawn to the beautiful ones which have come under cultivation, and. as the title indicates, the book furnishes a ready guide to a knowledge of wild and cultivated flowers alike. An elaborate so-page index shows at a glance botanical and popular names, family, color, locality, environ- ment, i.nd time of bloom of several hundred flowers. For sale by all bcoksellers ; or will be sent by mail on receipt of price by the publishers, O. APPLETON & CO., 7a Fifth Avenue, New York. DATE DUE A fine of five cents will be charpccl for each day overdue. O.mvlNO NOJ-lDNIMiv A % ■ ■ .> "r5 1, Ik I 5.-L -tf J ^WNp^ ' <f^ ' *-' )- m50 p';?ai1 [^'^1 fe-:^ mi t , J A 'hum »- I j:; ^^^^^^^fl ■ V Hjf^^^r^ ^^^H k:^l "^ i*^*,""" i^H^^^^^^^^^^H Ah^^^^^^^l <: i^l^^^^^^^^^^l ^R^^^^^^^l \>. ^H^^^^^P^^H ^^^^^^H g- "Xt^ 1 i^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H ^H^fi^^^^^^^l ^^^V' n^^^^^^H j^^^j ^plY ^^^^^^^^^^H hbb^^H ^f ii ^^^^^^^^H^^^^^H ^^^^M^^^^H 1^- ^^^^H H^l at-; v»^ >«^^^^^^^^^^^^l I^^H^^^^I ■ 'OT' JB^^^^^^^^^^H l^^H r''#V 1 iv. '^■■^^H X^^^^H St^f' ^gj ^Hj^*i|^^^^^^B ^^^^H^^^^^l ^'' - flKiBHl^^B ^^H^^^B ts^'-'i ^^bI^^^^^^^^^Bh ^^^^^^^^^H Mi H^^H^Hj^fl ^^l^^l ^^^^B M ^^H MB '-' ^K^^^^ ■^^1 k'^'^-MI^^^^H E ^^H ^H Hp?ij»^ ^^^^^^H^^^^^^^H ^^^ij^^^^^i ■p-"^»%^ m. 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