IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ >. (/ «* <it 4^ <i 1.0 1.1 >tt Ui 12.2 no mo IL25 III 1.4 .*>< ^^ Fhotogra{:te Sciences Corporalion 23 WKT MAIN CTRHT WnSTM,N.Y. 14SM (71«)t7a-4503 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHJVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Inttituta for Historical IMicroraproductiont / Institut Canadian da microraproductions historiquas TMhnioal and Bibliographic Notaa/Notaa taeliniquaa at bibiiograpliiquaa Tha Inatituta haa attamptad to obtain tha baat originai copy avaiiabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy which may ba bibliographicalhf uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction, or which may aignificantly changa tha uaual mathod of filming, ara chacltad baiow. D n n D D Coiou^ad covara/ Couvartura da coulaur I I Covara damagad/ Couvartura andommagAa Covara raatorad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura raataurto at/ou palliculAa □ Covar titia miaaing/ La titra da couvartura manqua I I Colourad mapa/ Cartaa gAographiquaa an coulaur □ Colourad inic (i.a. othar than blua or blacic)/ Encra da coulaur (i.a. autra qua biaua ou noira) I I Colourad piataa and/or iiluatrationa/ Planchaa at/ou iiluatrationa an coulaur Bound with othar matariai/ RaliA avac d'autraa documanta Tight binding may cauaa ahadowa or diatortion along intarior margin/ Larciiura aarr6a paut cauaar da I'ombra ou da la diatortion la long da la marga intiriaura Blanic laavaa addad during raatoration may appaar within tlia taxt. Whanavar poaaibia, thaaa hava baan omittad from filming/ II aa paut qua cartainaa pagaa blanchaa ajoutAaa lora d'una raatauration apparaiaaant dana la taxta. mala, loraqua caia Atait poaaibia, cam pagaa n'ont paa AtA filmAaa. Additional commanta:/ Commantairaa supplAmantairaa; Thai toth( L'Inatitut a microfiimA la maillaur axampiaira qu'il lui a 4tA poaaibia da aa procurar. Laa dAtaila da eat axampiaira qui aont paut-Atra unlquaa du point da vua bibliographiqua, qui pauvant modiflar una imaga raproduita, ou qui pauvant axigar una modification dana la mAthoda normala da filmaga aont indiquAa ci-daaaoua. r~1 Colourad pagaa/ D Pagaa da coulaur Pagaa damagad/ Pagaa andommagAaa Pagaa raatorad and/oi Pagaa raataurAaa at/ou palliculAaa Pagaa diacolourad. atainad or foxai Pagaa dAcolorAaa, tachatAaa ou piquAaa Pagaa datachad/ Pagaa dAtachAaa Showthroughy Tranaparanca Quality of prin QualitA inAgala da I'impraaalon Includaa aupplamantary matarii Comprand du matArial aupplAmantaira Only adition avaiiabia/ Saula Adition diaponibia I — I Pagaa damagad/ I — I Pagaa raatorad and/or laminatad/ r^ Pagaa diacolourad. atainad or foxad/ I I Pagaa datachad/ rri Showthrough/ r~1 Quality of print variaa/ r~n Includaa aupplamantary matariai/ I — I Only adition avaiiabia/ Thai poaal ofth filmii Origii bagir thali aion. othar firati aion. or ill! Thai! ahail TINU whici IMapa diffar antiri bagin right raquii mathi Pagaa wholly or partially obacurad by arrata alipa. tiaauaa. ate, hava baan rafilmad to anaura tha baat poaaibia imaga/ Laa pagaa totalamant ou partiallamant obacurciaa par un fauillat d'arrata, una palura, ate, ont AtA filmAaa A nouvaau da fapon A obtanir la maiilaura imaga poaaibia. Thia itam ia fllmad at tha raductlon ratio chacliad baiow/ Ca documant aat filmA au taux da rAduction IndiquA ci-daaaoua. 10X MX ItX 22X MX 30X J D 12X 16X 2DX MX 2»( 32X Ira d4tailt IM du modifier l«r un« filmagc TiM copy fllmsd h«r« has baan raproduoad thanka to tha ganaroahy of: Library of tha Public Archivas of Canada Tha imagaa appaaring hara ara tha batt quality poaalbia conaidaring tha condition and iaglbility of tha original copy and In kaaplng with tha filming contract spaelf icationa. L'axamplaira filmA f ut raprodult grAca i la gAn«ro8ltA da: La bibiiothAqua daa Archivaa pubiiquas du Canada Laa imagaa auivantaa ont 4tA raprodultaa avac la plua grand aoin, compta tanu da la condition at da la nattatA da l'axamplaira film*, at an conformiti avac las conditions du eontrat da fllmaga. «as Original copiaa in printad papar covers ara fllmad beginning with tha front cover and ending on the lest page with a printed or lliuatratad imprea- sion. or tha back cover when appropriate. All other original copies ara filmed beginning on the first pege with a printed or lliuatratad imprea- sion, and ending on the ieat page with e printed or illustrated impreeaton. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — ^- (meening "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever eppiiea. Lee eKemplalres orlgineux dont la eouvarture en papier eat imprimia sent filmAs sn commanpant par la premier piet et en termlnant soit par la darnlAre pege qui comporte une emprelnte d'impresslon ou d'illustration. soit par la second plat, salon la cas. Tous las eutres exemplairas orlgineux sent f iimto en commenpant par la pramlAre page qui comporte une emprelnte d'impreaslon ou d'illustration et en termlnant par la darnlAre pege qui comporte une telle emprelnte. Un dee symboles suivants apparattra sur la darnlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbde -^ signlfie "A 8UIVRE", le symbols ▼ signifle "FIN". re IMaps. pkitas, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included In one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand comer, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames aa required. The foilowvlng diagrams illustrate the method: Lea cartas, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent Atre fllmia A das taux de rAductlon diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, 11 est fiimA A partir da Tangle supArleur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut an bas, en prenant la nombre d'imeges nAcesseire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la mAthode. y errata Id to nt fie pelure, pen A 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 6 6 E duty the! the I hav< izati SIA QHA8. L. QOFmON. SIX YEARS k IN THE BUSH; on EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL ' '5 km OF A SETTLER IN UPPER CANADA. 1832—1838. " Colonization is not only a manifest expedient, but an imperative duty on Great Britain. God seems to hold out his finger to us over the sea : But it must be a national Colonization, such as was that of the Scotch to America : a Colonization of Hope, and not such as we have alone encouraged and effected for the last fifty years — a Colon- ization of Despair. " — Coleridge. LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO. STATIONERS' HALL COURT : CHARLES TILT, FLEET STREET ; ^ AND ROBERT EDIS, HUNTINGDON. 1838. \ • >f> ',t -/ HUNTINGDON: Printed by R. Edis, High Street, .OHAfU L. GORDON. PREFACE. On returning to England, after a residence of nearly six years in the Backwoods of Upper Canada, the author of the following pages found himself an object of some curiosity. His habits of life in the Bush were made the theme of minute enquiry, and familiar and every day occurrences listened to with interest. Having kept a rough journal during his absence, he was enabled to cir- culate it among his friends, several of whom sug- gested that its contents might prove interesting to a portion of the public, and instructive to future emigrants. In compliance with this opinion, he put his note-book into the hands of a friend, to select such extracts as might seem likely to in- terest the English reader, and prepare them for the press. Of himself it may be proper to state, that after he had graduated at Oxford, with a view to one of the learned professions, a strong desire to try his for- tunes in the West came over him. The resolution i, i. ii'i IV PREKACB.,-*'v* "^C* though not encouraged, , was not thwi^rted, by his friends, through whose kind assistance he was enabled to carry it into execution. Pohtics can scarcely be expected to find a place in a mere settler's thoughts, and still less in his journal. The reader therefore will .find no allusion to the present unhappy condition of the province, or the origin and progress of the rebellion. Of Sir John Colborne's firm and paternal government, he, in common with every other settler, must speak with grateful recollection : of his successor he knew less, and of the present appointment, and acts of the supreme legislature, with regard to the colony, he is unwilling to hazard an opinion at such a distance. While these pages, however, are passing through the press, he will be returning across the broad Atlantic, to the home and country of his adoption; where he prays that the measures of the British government may meet with approbation, and be found adapted to the wants and feelings of his fellow subjects. -Mar, 1S:38. 0HA8. L. GORDON. CONTENTS. ^«i^X''^'V^/^^^^V\^^^^^^'V^^^U\^^^%/^' CHAPTER I. Arrival at New York — Courtesy of American authorities — Voyage to Albany — Embark on Grand Erie canal — Night on board canal boat — Frog concert — Yankee Bushman — Kingston — Docks — Hulks of Psyche and St. Lawrence — Irish emigrants — Canada Land Company- Toronto. CHAPTER II. Western tour — Queenston — Sir Isaac Brock — Niagara Falls — Surly Innkeeper — Fourth of June — FroTincial militia — Brantford — Indian reserve — Indian q' arrel — Thunder storm — Inn at Oxford — English gentleman's family — St. Thomas — Colonel Talbot — London — Dun- das street — Return to Toronto. CHAPTER III. Cholera at Toronto — Yonge street — An acquaintance — Bad taste and impolicy of English settlers affecting Yankee «• VI CONTENTS. idioms and habits — Conti'mplation — Visit to a gontluinan Janner — C'obourg — IVrcy — Rivt-r Tront — S(!yinourt<»wn- slnp — Ricu lako — Otanabeo rivor — l*ct('rb(»ro' — JMisissi- •luas Indians — Missionaries — Return to Toronto. CHAPTER IV. Sporting excursion to lako Erie — Long Toint — Various wild fowl — Fish Hawk and Bald Eagle — Wild turkeys — Simple mode of taking — Slaughter of a buck — Return to 'I'oronto — Detention at Cobourg — Canadian Inn — Second visit to Peterborc)' — Indian mode cf lighting a fire — Punhase of an estate — Fasliionublc season at Toronto — (Mose of year 1 832. CHAPTER V. New year, 1833 — Purchase of land — Government plan of sale — Departure for Peterboro' — SherifFs sale — State of thermometer — Dashing settlor — Indian village — Indian mode of fishing — Grievance meeting — March winds and extreme cold — Cobourg ball — Break up of winter — Start for the Bush — Misadventures — Descripdon of Estate — Beaver Meadows. CHAPTER VI. Timber felling — Caracon's Falls — Fish-spearing — Descrip- tion of Log House — Sunday — Ancient Indian habits — Capture of bear on the lake — Necessity of salt for domestic animals — Daily mode of life — Quarrel between English laborer and Indian. ( ON" i;n rs. Ml CIIAI'TKK VII Autuinn — Nmv srlllurs — llunituni! — Surviy t»f hiW lor n village — Aniviil <tf scvi'ml faniilics — Imliiiu camp — ►Sfiuiiivl bavkiijf^ — lutliaii Kunniier — Narrow t'scu|Hi from (ln»v))iug — Chrislnins day — Ciiaut of Provincial I'nrliu- uu'Dt to the towusliip — Anniversary (»f dopartur*' from Ihi^'land — StaUincnl of outlay on 20 ucrt'S of lund, liou.s<'; and appendages. . !'■ I : 1; CHAPTER VIII. Tcttrboro' — Canadian wolf — Dcsli action of Cameron's Falls — Moliawk and (.'hii)puwttb Indians — Erectii»n of a saw-mill — Change of residence — Visit of the Lieutenant Governor. CHAPTER IX. Change of residence — Visit to the Sugar Bush, and descrip- tion of the manufacture — Working ofthe saw mill — Rise and progress of a Backwood settlement — Bush fever — Profits of the mill — Hazardous encounter of a young sportsman with a deer in the water. CHAPTER X. Annual appointment of Township Officers — Bachelors' ball at I'eterboro' — Opening of a Church for public worship — Racoon — Indian marriage — Cold Spring of 1837 — Young wolf — Formation of a Steam Navigation Company — Cost of passage to England — Return home. H SIX Arriva Voy Nig Dm rem Toi May 18 state from hart that tinei intl ligh rep( SIX YEARS IN THE BUSH. «^^^^W<^^^»^y^^^^>»' CHAPTER I. Arrival at New York — Courtesy of American Authorities — Voyttije to Albany — Embark on Grand Erie Canal — Night on Board Canal Boat — Frog Concert — Yankee Bushman — Kingston-^Hulks of Psyche and St. Law- rcnce-^Irish Emigrants-^Canada Land Company^' Toronto. 1 • H May 10, The regularity and despatch of the 1832. New York and Liverpool packets are so generally known, that I need only state, on the thirtieth day after our departure from England we came safely to anchor in the harbour of New York. As the cholera was at that time confined to England and the old Con- tinent, we naturally expected a tedious detention in the quarantine ground ; but, to our great de- light, the medical officer who boarded the vessel reported so favorably on our state of health that B BIX TEARS permission was immediately granted us to land. This unlooked-for courtesy, and the subsequent civil treatment I experienced from the Custom House officers, gave me a very favorable first im- pression of the conduct of American authorities to strangers. The city of New York —its magnificent Broad- way — ^its harbour and hotels — ^have been often de- scribed. I may therefore proceed to say that in less than a week I took my leave of the crowded Wash- ington hotel, and its well-spread board, at which, from the novelty of my situation, as well as the astonishing rapidity with which the viands disap- peared, I had sat like Tantalus of old — ^famished in the midst of apparent plenty — and embarked on board a steamer for Albany. Nine hours termi- nated this once adventurous voyage, formerly un- dertaken by few without prayers for their safe con- duct being offered in the churches by friends at home, and of which the perils were doubtless not a little magnified to the early English settler by their harsh Dutch appellations. Albany has some fine public buildings and excellent shops ; but the practise, also common to parts of the old conti- nent, of taking advantage of the inexperience of a customer, is very disagreeable to an Englishman, and might have proved expensive to me, had not the good-natured captain of the steamer, amongst IN THE BUSH. '■f 1 other useful advice, warned me never to give a store-keeper in the States more than two thirds of his original demand. At Albany we left the "broad Hudson,** and crossed by the railroad to Schenec- tady, where a packet boat was waiting to convey us along the Grand Erie canal to Syracuse, and thence by the branch to the town of Oswego on lake Ontario. At Schenectady, a large hair brush and comb, suspended by an iron chain in the public room of the inn, afforded us some amusement. These useful appendages of the toilet we afterwards frequently met with in similar situations, and as every genuine Yankee who takes his meals at the house makes use of them three or four times daily, their office is no sinecure. The canal boat was over-crowded with passen- gers, otherwise it might have been an agreeable mode of conveyance. It was drawn along by three horses at a steady pace of about five miles an hour, travelling day and night. Below deck was a small cabin fitted up with sleeping berths for the pas- sengers ; but, in the crowded state of the vessel, I thought it expedient to establish myself on deck for the night, though all the rest of the company went below : this I soon found was wrong, as in- deed persons mostly are when they walk out of the course in a strange country. In the early part of the night, the blood-thirsty disposition of a ! ,!'« m SIX YEARS f- swarm of mosquitoes kept me in a constant state of feverish alarm; then the frogs of many tribes commenced their ancient concert, making night hideous with their noise, and effectually banishing sleep. I had heard and read of the harmony, if not the sublimity, of a chorus of frogs on this side the Atlantic, before I left England; but I confess, that in spite of all my poetical associations, the only impres&ion left on me by the visitation was a more distinct conception of the terribleness of the frog plague upon Pharaoh and his Egyptians. Lastly, a cold mizzling rain set in at daybreak, which, after wetting me to the skin, yielded to the influence of the morning sun, just as my fellow passengers began to emerge from their snug berths, and "guess that the young Englisher would have done better below.'* A good breakfast and a fine warm day soon made amends however for the miseries of the night, and put me in a disposition to admire the mighty work of art by which the waters of the Great Lakes are united with those of the Hudson. At Syracuse we left the main canal, and were transferred to another boat which conveyed us to Onondaga, celebrated for extensive salt mines, and thence, before night-fall, to the frontier fort and town of Oswego. There, a Kingston steamer received us on board, in company with a travel- IN THE BUSH. ling menagerie and its keeper, sundry traders and storekeepers, and an old backwoodsman, migrating from the States to the Canadian Bush. He was one of those restless spirits still common on the frontier districts of both countries, who have been not inaptly termed the pioneers of civilisation — his whole life had literally been a pilgrimage, for as soon as he had cleared a few acres of land, with a design to settle, some tempting offer had always induced him to part with them, and take the Bush again. At one time he had amassed some pro- perty, but an unlucky speculation had recently swallowed it up, and thrown him back again on his own exertions, at a time of life when most men look to be cared for and supported. He had never talked with a " genuine Englisher" before, and considered that he ought to hate us cordially ; but a few well-timed attentions, and a disposition to admire the country we had passsed through, re- laxed his enmity, and disposed him to enter into conversation. He had heard much of the advan- tages which Canada held out to persons of his habits, I but entertained serious doubts of the pro- priety of^a free-born American living under a King ; these, however, I considerably relieved, by assuring him that the King would not come into the Bush to trouble him ; a fact which, after some consideration, he seemed disposed to admit. If 4 ' ■H 81X TBAR8 May 23. Kingston. — Here every thing denoted that we were once more under our own king's sceptre; the British colours were flying on the fort — British uniforms glittered in the streets, and the old accustomed signs — ^the King's Arms, the Queen's Head, and the Crown and Anchor, greeted the eye; showing, as far at least as outward signs could do, that Republican principles found little favor on this side the river. Sir John Colbome was now the famUiar name in men's mouths, instead of rough old General Jackson — Sir Isaac Brock superseded Washington, and the deliberations of the provincial Parliament those of Congress. The chief attraction of Kingston are the Docks, now encumbered with the mouldering hulks of those threatened Leviathans of the lake, the St. Law- rence and Psyche, each pierced for 1 20 guns. The latter is especially memorable for the unprece- dented outlay upon her ; she was first cut out in the rough, then sent to England to be shaped, and finally returned to Kingston to be finished, at a total cost to the nation of one million sterUng — The lakes she was intended to navigate are, it is well known, fresh water; and yet, by a truly Irish oversight, she was fitted with an apparatus for reducing salt water into fresh, in addition to a vast number of water casks. Happily these mo- INTHEBU8H. J numents of national extravagance are gradually perishing, and wiU cease ere long to afford the traveller ocular confirmation of the Swedish chan- cellor's quaint though melancholy remark, " with how little wisdom the afiairs of nations are con- ducted." In those days, however, England thought only of glory, and " d — d the expense :** Reform was then a bughear-— Retrenchment an ungentle- manly word — ^and Joseph Hume was not. ^'* ^ Mat 25. Embarked on board the Great Bri- tain steamer for York Town, or Toronto, as it is now more wisely called — ^the seat of government for the Upper Province. Our freight consisted chiefly of poor "exiles of Erin,'' a way-worn and wretched crew, whose evil destiny was drivmg them, under the auspices of one of the agents of the Canada Land Company, into the far West. Perhaps no blame can attach to the Company for endeavouring to people their territory as they best can ; but cer- tainly it should be the earnest care of a merciful and provident government at home to protect from imposition, and provide with safe information, all whom poverty, persecution, or other circum- stances, drive from her shores. These unfortu- nates had never heard of the Eastern Districts, or been informed that in sight of where they were then sailing lay a rich and fertile country, where 11 \ f* - ■ V vl 'K: IH s BIX YBAR8 ml •I 4 they might have found immediate employment and an abundant livelihood, under as favorable a cli-* mate. As it was, they had many hundred miles still to journey in weariness and hunger, to which the burthen of sickness was also added. The men were fine spirited fellows however, for the most part; and I had not the heart to undeceive them, when, in attempting to dry their wives* and chil- dren's tears, they appealed to me for a confirmation of the bright prospects they had been told awaited them in their imaginary Canaan of the West. At Toronto we parted from our less fortunate countrymen. The town lies low, and its first appearance from the water struck us as unprepos- sessing. There was however a good deal of lake craft in the port; and though extremely irregular and unfinished, the streets contain several good shops and private houses, some handsome public buildings, and a certain air of bustle and import- ance which the seat of government must always confer. The day after our arrival we waited on the Lieutenant Governor, the good and deservedly popular Sir J. Colborne, under whose auspices the colony was rapidly increasing in wealth and respectability. He received us with his usual courtesy; and having read our letters of recom- mendation, promised to further our purpose of 'mt INTHEDUSH. settling in the colony, by procuring us information, and introducing us to the most capable advisers, of whom, however, he himself proved the most so. We afterwards had the honor of dining at his table, where we met some of the principal resi- dents, who, during our stay and afterwards, treated us in the most kind and hospitable manner. Calls and invitations also followed from most of the principal inhabitants, to whose attention the Lieute- nant Governor's acknowledgement is always a ready passport. *4 ;,.-v»; 7 vi K 10 SIX TEARS .,.;,, CHAPTER II. Western Tout'^QueemtonF^Sir Isaac Brock— Niagara FallS'^Surly Innkeeper— Fourth of June^—Provincial Militia — Brantford'^Indian reserve — Indian quarrel — Thunder storm^^Inn at Oxford — English gentleman's family ^St, ThomaS'^Colonel Talbot — London — Dundas street — Return to Toronto, May 31. Being naturally desirous to see a portion of my adopted country before I took to the Bush, or decided where to pitch my tent, I started with my former companion and an English servant, who, like old Adam, had promised to follow me **to the last gasp, with truth and loyalty," on a visit to some of the Western Districts. A steam boat conveyed us to Niagara town, where we hired a carriage to take us to the Falls, four- teen miles distant. The road lies chiefly along the river, passing about half way through the pretty village of Queenston, where the brave and much lamented Sir Isaac Brock met his death in the year 1812:—- he had hastily collected a i: ! IN THE BUSH. 11 few troops to oppose a sudden invasion of 1400 Americans under General Wadsworth, and was gallantly driving them from the village, when a fatal shot from a picked rifleman struck him down, and for a moment turned the fortune of the day: but a British reinforcement opportunely arriving, the affair terminated in the surrender of the Ame- rican General and 900 men — an honorable though scarcely adequate compensation for the loss of the British Commander. A monument marks the spot where the hero fell, which we, in common with every loyal subject, visited. The evening of the day was fully occupied in surveying the Cataract. It is idle to attempt to describe the impression produced by the vast volume of falling waters and their concomitants of sound and spray — ^which latter, by the bye, Miss Fanny Kemble, or rather Mrs. Butler, has since so appropriately termed the ** everlasting incense of the waters." .. > June 1. After some altercation, we succeeded to day in purchasing an active little mare and light travelling waggon — the price originally de- manded was 180 dollars, or £36. sterhng; but, on the Yankee principle, the bargain was finally concluded for two thirds of the sum. There were several cleared farms on sale in the neighbourhood 12 SIX YEARS of the Falls, but at a price which climate, soil, and unrivalled scenery, combined to raise far beyond an adventurer's means. lit 1, r June 2. Proceeded to St. Catharine's, a vil- lage situated on the Welland canal, where the ultra American incivility of the innkeeper upset our philosophy, and might have got us into a broil, had not a gentleman of the village come to our assistance and offered us the hospitality of his own house ; he happened moreover to be a magistrate, and after due investigation declared his intention of depriving surly Boniface of his license. Our next stage was Hamilton, a thriving little town at the head of lake Ontario . It was the fourth of June, the grand muster day of the Provincial militia, who were assembled in some force. They were certainly a parti- coloured and curiously equip- ped regiment, and at first reminded us strongly of the "brave army of valiant General Fusbos;'* but in truth the resemblance was only in externals, for they went through their evolutions in a manner which shewed that these citizen soldiers were not met to trifle with their duty; and that, in the event of a new war, they would prove themselves as heretofore, able defenders of their king and country. We were told that they had neither forgotten nor forgiven the excesses committed on their frontier IN THE BUSH. 13 during the last American war, and that an implac- able enmity existed between them and their Re- publican neighbours. Several farms were offered us there, and again at Ancaster and Brantford, a village deriving its name and interest from Brant, the celebrated war chief of the Mohawk Indians — there, on a rich and fertile tract, watered by the grand river, are located a remnant of the gallant and faithful ** Six Nations," over whom the son of the old warrior rules in his father's room : we were furnished with a letter to the chief, but unfortu- nately he was absent from the settlement; we had however a lovely walk to the village, through a wood of young oaks, and lawns carpetted with flowers, reminding us strongly of our own dear country; — as indeed the whole territory and its broad river is said to do the Indians of their old hereditary possessions on the beautiful Mohawk. Those of the tribes whom we met saluted us with much courtesy, and conversed with us in their quiet reserved manner: as we were returning, two of their young men passed us in fierce altercation, which quickly produced blows; the struggle was severe for a few minutes, until one of them was thrown on the ground, where he lay so perfectly motionless, under the cruel kicks and blows of his adversary, that we thought him dead; but the conquerorceasing his chastisement on our approach. •i. 14 SIX Y B A Rl the fallen one jumped up, and sped away to the woods with the swiftness of a deer. Poor fellows! they had both of them partaken too freely of the '• whiteman's firewater," or tliey would not thus have compromised their native dignity. From Brantford our course lay to Oxford, about forty miles west. On this journey we were ex- posed for some hours to the fury of a thunder storm, which on this continent, where the elements, like nature, operate on a giant scale, is truly appal- ling. While the clouds were congregating, the wind lulled to a perfect calm, which we felt more oppressive and fearful than even the storm itself. The whole forest lay still as death, except that occasionally, and apparently without cause, a large dead hmb parted from some neighbouring tree, and fell heavily to the ground. At length a few great drops of rain came pattering down, and then followed a gust of wind, rushing through the forest and bowing the mighty trees like reeds : of the rest I have but an indistinct notion, for self-pre- servation was the prevalent feeling, and I can only remember that we scarcely knew whether to fear most the incessant lightning which involved us in flame, or the huge boughs which, borne on the fury of the storm, threatened us momentarily with annihilation; somehow or other we did manage to continue our route, which was judged safer than to 1 IN THB BU8H. 16 stop, and after an expotmre of three hours had the happiness of reaching Oxfordi half-dead indeed with cold and fright, and somewhat bruised, hut on the whole right thankful to have escaped so well. On arriving at the door of the inn, we had hitter proof that we were in the land of independence : — no ready waiter answered our summons — no careful ostler appeared to take charge of our jaded steed — no bustling landlady, with anxious enquiries after our safety and condition; but every thing silent as death: our plight did not admit of ceremony however, so on the faith of a written assuramce over the door, that Captain , late of the Ur S. Militia, and now of the " Washington's Head,^ did profess to entertain travellers, we groped our way to the bar, where we found the redoubtable Captain occupying all the chairs in the apartment, (one of which supported his legs on a higher ele« vation than his head,) and smoking a cigar : after a cool survey of our persons, which he contrived to effect without moving himself, or removing his hat, he calculated that " we must be tarnation wet, for it did rain almighty," and then continued puffing away as composedly as before ; this we supposed was to impress " us Englishers/' as he immediately discerned us to be, with a due notion of his independence; for when he saw that we neither blustered nor swore, he soon put aside his r 16 SIX YEARS ' f ' 1 .t"i cigar and bestirred himself and his helps so effec- tually, that in much less time than appearances warranted, a huge fire was roaring in the stove, eggs and bacon smoked upon the board, and we were comfortably established in dry clothes, solac- ing ourselves with a glass of hot whisky punch, and talking over the adventures of the day. The next morning a pleasant drive of five or six hours brought us to the riant shores of Lake Erie, where it was pronounced advisable to halt a day or two, to repair the damage done to our horse and vehicle by the late storm. Pork and eggs and dry bread, with perhaps a chance squirrel, or other '* such small deer," having been our portion ever since we left Toronto, we hoped here to mend our fare, with the «vssistance of a gun and fishing rod ; a few pigeons however were the extent of my bag, during our halt ; and my companion succeeded scarcely better in beguiling some miserably small trout out of a distant stream, where a Yankee conducted him, under an assurance that " the trouts there were uncommon plenty, and beat all for eating." During our necessary detention on the lake, we became acquainted with an Enghsh settler's family; they were well connected in England, and had been long enough in the province to have mas- tered the " Res angusta domi,*' which originally i'- ■ i '' IN THE BUSH. 17 drove them from home, and assembled about them several English comforts, and even refine- ments ; the lady, nevertheless, spoke feelingly of the privations and hardships she had endured in the first years of her exile : some of which, though softened by habit and bettered circumstances, still remained; one grievance she particularly dwelt upon, was the difficulty of procuring respectable servants, unless she would consent to treat them as equals, and admit them to sit at table with her husband and children ; at the time of our visit, she was combining in her own person all the domestic offices, and I believe retired from the dining table to wash up the dishes and boil the tea kettle. June 14. Visited Colonel Talbot, at his thriving settlement of St. Thomas. The gallant Colonel migrated from Ireland many years ago, to the extreme surprise of his friends, who deemed him mad. Skill and perseverance have, however, long since proved that there was " method in his mad- ness," for his settlement is second to none in the Province, in situation and fertility, as well as in respectability. We met him returning in high spirits from attending a grievance meeting in the neighbourhood, which he and his friends had, by a series of counter resolutions, converted into a loyal and constitutional one. Report pronounces ^"'i i SIX YEARS him very rich, but habit and taste have confirmed him in the simple mode of life of the Bush; and if happiness consists in wanting but " little here below," he may be pronounced truly happy. JuNB 23. This evening found us at London, on this side the Atlantic; also, the capital of a very large and extended district: it too has its Thames, a petty stream, with just water enough to turn a mill ; yet who knows but that one day it may have its own importance in this growing colony — " et olim parvula Roma /nit P" Here we got on Dundas street, a high road which traverses the Province from east to west; and on it we made the best of our way back to Toronto, where we happily arrived again on the last day of June, after exactly a month's absence. In our tour we had seen some striking scenery, which others before us have doubtless described ; and dwelt with admiration upon lakes and falls, and rivers and forests, which we had read of as in a fairy tale : we had also observed the condition and prospects of various classes of settlers, and traced the progress of civiUzation from the first hard-won encroachment upon the forest, to the cleared and highly cultivated farm ; we had visited also good sized towns, which a few years ago were insignificant hamlets, and beheld thriving villages IN THE BUSH. 19 rising among the blackened stumps of still unde- cayed trees. On the other hand, we had endured all the miseries which unmade roads, uncivil land- lords, uncomfortable inns, and a salt pork diet, could accumulate on unfortunate travellers. Moreover, we had come off losers by several ounces of blood in divers encoimters with the mosquitoes, besides having been in sundry perils by flood and field. The price of land we found averaged from 1600 to 2000 dollars for a lot of 200 acres, one fourth cleared and in cultivation : wild land might then be procured at five dollars an acre, but not very rea- dily, as there was a general disinclination to sell . among holders, owing to the rapid increase of mo- nied settlers, and the general prosperity of the province imder the fostering care of Sir J. Col- borne, whose government will long be remembered by every class of colonists. '¥: ■!T> S '--- :\ -'\ ■j'l'':':-' : !-■--' • " ' V '' - - -r.t I ■ -■'!'. •,. ..-V •' i; C' • " " : . ■'■,.- r- ■::■'■:' ■:=??-t ^Ai r.::i T':^* 0] -'<( ;:■;■ ■ • 1 1 ■ .1 : ' > '■•".■ ', '■ • i'Cs.ar.-, ■ ;: ■ ■V *T ' • ' . - ; V-.^ Jl-.. J.* : bm ^:'<- .( • .- •] y;:- ■t'*;.- ','-■■;■:- ; -'L- 1 .' ' "■' ,'v':i'^h!:*rr]bi^i illi :■;, 'f'/^-; i i-v:;-. ^ . S .0"^ r." 2 20 SIX YBARS CHAPTER III. H' fil ,'i i m Cholera at Toronto'~~Yonge Street— 'An acquaintance — Bad taste and impolicy of English settlers affecting Yankee idioms and habits'— Contemplation — Visit to a Gentleman Farmer^^Cohourg— 'Percy — River Trent— ^Seymour town- ship—Rice Lake — Otanabee River — Peterboro — Misissi- quas Indians— Missionaries^'Return to Toronto . At Toronto, we found the cholera raging so fiercely that all business was at a stand; so we im- mediately resumed our seats in the waggon and set off down Yonge street, on an expedition to lake Simcoe. For some miles the farms on either side the street or road are well cultivated; and here perhaps, of all places in the Province, ought the mere practical farmer to settle, as the proximity to the capital gives him a safe and steady market for his produce, and the means of obtaining in re- turn many of the comforts of life. At an inn on the road side, I met with a young farmer who had lately emigrated from my own county in England; he was altogether hopeless and desponding, a thing in itself by no means uncommon with settlers of his station in life during the first two or three IN THB BUSH. 21 years, their minds being generally too contracted to look far into the future, or to bear with patience present hardship, that good may come : but from what Uttle I saw of my co-patriot, there was no room to hope that his prospects would brighten as time advanced ; for instead of business, he had evi- dently turned all his attention, since his arrival in the Province, to the study of Yankee manners and idioms, which, disagreeable as they are, he cer- tainly contrived to render more offensive by his unmeant caricature ; cool impertinence he mistook for independence ; and a swaggering jaunty air for an easy manner ; of course he * 'guessed and calcu- lated;** but to my inquiries respecting his prospects, and what information he had gained, and where he meant to settle, he was utterly unable to give a straight forward reply : — doubtless he will soon be a bankrupt here, as he probably has been already in England, where, if he has friends or credit left, he will return, "seven times** more worthless than he came out. I do not know any thing more degrading than an affectation of Yankee airs and idioms in a newly-imported EngUsh settler; whether yeomafl, or, as I fear, sometimes ("proh pudor" be it said), gentleman. The EngUsh emi- grant, like the ancient Roman, should carry with him to the colony the manners, habits, and princi- ples of the mother country; he. ought to glory in SIX YEARS the title of Englishman, and esteem it as much a privilege as ever did Roman that of Citizen; but too often the reverse is the case. The Anglo - Canadian copies the worst and most prominent features of the American character, and the British settler in his turn caricatures the copy. I have no quarrel with the manners of the real American, which are for the most part essentially good, inas- much as they are civil, friendly, and obliging ; but they are peculiar, and there is certainly nothing in them for an Englishman to be enamoured of, much less to imitate. Policy also might teach us to avoid this error ; for England, and especially English settlers of the better class, may rest assured, that if they do not their utmost by pre- cept and example to maintain the national cha- racter, and foster a love for British institutions in the colony, the growing amalgamation which this base imitation is producmg between the States and the Province, will eventually unite them in other respects also ; and then, what will our domi- nation be but a name, which the first opportunity will blot from the map ? At present, the hatred excited by the last war in some (Ifegree checks the tendency to republicanism, but with the passing generation this will pass; and then, if the present taste be encouraged, will come the startling ques- tion, what else have we to trust to P No, if we would IN THE BUSH. 23 not realise the American boast that monarchy cannot thrive on the new Continent, let the Eng- lish settler take pains to prove its real superiority to any other form of government; so that when- ever, in the course of years, this thriving Colony is able to go alone, its constitution and form of Government may be modelled on those which have raised the mother country to her summit of glory. July 2. Lunched at Newmarket, with the hospitable family of Mr. R., M.P.P., who gave us much useful information respecting Lake Simcoe and its environs. The neighbourhood of that lake is generally preferred by British officers, who are settled here in great numbers, though I confess I could not see any thing in the character of the country or climate very prepossessing ; nor did the reports I heard of it give me a more favourable opinion : there was indeed an idea in contemplation of connecting the giant lake Huron with the On- tario, by means of a canal passing through lake Simcoe and its adjuncts ; this of course would be a vast public benefit, and must prove of correspond- ing advantage •to the settlers on the line ; but at best, the plan roust take years to carry into execu- tion, and meanwhile it is only among things con- templated. There is no word so tempting, and at the same time so fallacious in this country, as con- if: iV \ ■•"■■«1 fr''i m'm 24 SIX Y U A R S templation ; if you look at a farm with a view to purchase, you are told that something is in contem- plation to make it the finest in the Province ; go where you will, contemplation is always busy ; it is the settler's idol; and, Hke other idols, *'deceiveth those who put their trust in it." In this neigh- bourhood we also passed an agreeable day with one of our fellow passengers in the New York packet; he had been settled some years, and was possessed of a good frame house, a well cleared farm, and handsome property ; his summers were spent on his estate, and his winters at Toronto, or in friendly visits to his neighbours ; from one large field he had obtained, in the past year, forty five bushels of wheat to the acre. All that we saw in that settlement put us in high spirits ; which, how- ever, were in some measure checked a few days afterwards, by the opinion of two intelligent gen- tlemen I met at the Lieutenant Governor's table at Toronto ; to the effect that it was impossible to realize any considerable property by farming in Canada, though an English gentleman of stnall capital and some experience might live in comfort, and bring up a family respectably* The latter is undoubtedly true, but the former statement must be received with limitation, though I noted it at the time out of deference to the authority it pro- ceeded from. IN THK BUSH. 25 July 9. On our return from lake Simcoe, we found the cholera still raging at Toronto, and his Excellency very busily employed in doing all that humanity and policy could suggest to arrest or mitigate the evil. By his recommendation, we again started on an expedition to Se3rmour, a then unsettled township of much reported promise on the river Trent. Our first halting place was Cobourg, a small but rapidly increasing town, situated on the lake, about midway between To- ronto and Kingston. A stage passes through the town daily, and the steam boats always touch. It has also a post office, two bank agencies, seve- ral good stores and private houses, and is in many respects a desirable place to settle near. From hence to Percy on the Trent the road was exe- crable, though we were of course assured it was in contemplation to make it better; and what was of more importance, to make navigable the Trent river, a full broad flowing stream, which would amply repay the expense; indeed the project has been recommended to the Legislature by the Lieutenant Governor, and will doubtless receive their immediate consideration. Cn leaving the growing village of Percy, we were quickly buried in the woods of Sejnnour Township : an entirely new settlement, if settlement it could be called, where nothing was settled; the SIX Y K A RS day was spent in wandering through the forest, and discoursing with our guide on the nature and quality of the land : we were not however tempted by what we saw; and after passing an uncomfort- able night in a wretched shanty, returned to Cobourg in order to visit Rice Lake, and some of the Townships on the Otanabee river. An excel- lent road of fifteen miles in length leads from Cobourg to a tavern on Rice lake, whence a steam boat goes daily to Peterboro'. The lake itself has little to recommend it ; though a bright sun, and the gaily painted canoes of several Indians who followed in our tract, made the scene cheerful — they amused themselves and us with paddUng close under our vessel's stem, and then floating away on the mimic waves in our wake. Occasionally, loud peals of laughter betokened their high satis- faction — a great breach, by the bye, of Indian de- corum — ^but these people were of the Chippewa nation, a tribe lightly esteemed by their brethren of the Six nations. Having crossed Rice Lake, we entered one of the channels of the Otanabee river — a deep clear stream flowing between thickly wooded low banks, up which our heavy barge made weary progress. The clearings were few ; and, judging from the appearance of the settlers we saw, most aguish and unhealthy. At Peterboro', a town of almost IN TIIK HUSH. fp miraculous growth, we found a very comfortable though unfurnished inn, at which were several settlers from the neighbourhood, who freely fur- nished us with information about the different townships. At their suggestion, we crossed lake Chemong, about six miles from the town, to look at Harvey township; but on landing from Buckhom lake, we were fiercely assailed by a host of our ancient enemies, the mosquitoes, who in the end forced us to make a disorderly retreat to the boat. Situated on Chemong lake, or, as the word sig- nifies in the Indian language, the " lake of canoes,'* is a village belonging to the Chippewas, at that time little known to white men. We found the inhabitants very shy and reserved in their com- munications with us; and two boys, whose good graces we endeavoured to purchase by the offer of brandy, uttered a loud shriek of horror at the sight of the poison, as they, perhaps rightly, called it, and fled away from us into the woods. Our guide told us that these Indians had been notorious drunkards, until their conversion to Christianity by the teach- ing of some Methodist missionaries; but that now that vice, amongst many others, was completely eradicated. — It is pleasing to be able to bear this passing record to the success of these zealous men and their pious efforts. On the whole, we were well satisfied with what we saw and heard of the 11 ; If li 8 1 X T & A R 8 prospects of Peterboro' and the adjacent town- ships ; though, in obedience to a resolution made in England, I determined not to make any pur- chase until I had been some months in the country, and had had a fair opportunity of judging whether or not the life of a settler was likely to agree with my tastes and habits. ^li IN THB BUBH. 29 ) iM CHAPTER IV. Sporting excursion to lake Erie — Long Point — Various mid/owl — Fish Hawk and Bald Eagle — Wild turkeys— Simple mode of taking — Slaughter of a buck— Return to Toronto-~-Detention at Cohourg—Canadian Inn-^Second visit to Peterboro'^'Indian mode of lighting a fire — Purchase of an Estate — Fashionable season at Toronto — Close of year 1832. August 3d. As the cholera was still raging in the capital, we determined to pay a second visit to the shores of lake Erie, and take up our abode for a few weeks in some farm house, where we might enjoy the sports of the field, and at the same time acquire a knowledge of the country mode of farming. At Long Point, a narrow strip of land running very far into the lake, a lod^mg was of- fered us, which appeared to combine both these advantages; so we accordingly moved into it just in time to commouce our sports on the morning of the twelfth, when we knew that many of our friends at home would be engaged in the same manner on the moors. Our fare was to depi^nd chiefly on our skill, for tlie house afforded little 1: I I:, 30 SIX YEARS beyond stale bread, and veal dried to the consis- tency of old leather. But this was no great hard- ship, for the lake supplied us with fish of various kinds — the marshes with wild fowl and snipe — the cleared lands with quails — and the woods with partridges, wood-grouse, black squirrels, and occasionally a turkey ; the summer duck we also frequently shot, not less delicate in flavour than in plumage : and sometimes, though not often, a wild swan ; these birds alone, of all the water tribe, we found as wild and shy on the lonely lake as when they visit our English shores. The shal- lows were tenanted by the patient spectre-like heron, whose silent watch we never used to dis- turb, for he seemed associated with thoughts and feelings of home, and we were glad to have, in the midst of all that was new, a memorial of old times and our old country. Of an evenhig, the scene was enlivened by the cry of ^^ "the Bittern, booming from the hollow fen," and of countless others of the varied tribes who dwell in the marshes or frequent the waters. There were the fish hawk, too, and his implacable enemy the bald eagle : we often sat on the shore watching them on a still evening : — ^the hawk would hang motionlesL in the air, or skim lazily along at a con- siderable height above the lake; — then suddenly IN THE BUSH. 31 he would fold his wings, and fall with a heavy plunge into the water, from which he generally emerged with a noble fish in his talons, directing his flight to an old white cedar, his accustomed retreat. — Long before his journey jwas accom- plished however, the eagle (who from the top of some tall pine had been an interested observer of his motions) bore down upon him with an exultant scream, and tore the quarry from his grasp: sometimes the hawk would not tamely yield his prey, but more frequently he declined the unequal contest, and retired cowed and sulky to the nearest covert. ' One morning, a neighbouring farmer brought us an invitation to visit his clearing, and try our luck with a flock of wild turkeys, which were in the habit of committing depredations on his maize or Indian com. We were very sanguine of suc- cess, and started immediately ; but all that we gained by a long watch and very fatiguing walk was the conviction that the wild turkey was not a bird to be shot by mere tyros ; in fact it is very diflicult of approach, easily alarmed, and able to run with the swiftness of a deer; sometimes, when pressed hard by a dog, he will take refuge in a tree, at the foot of which the dog is taught to yelp until the sportsman comes up, who shoots him while his attention is fixed on the enemy below. h^ : ■ t'S 32 SIX YEARS n H Nevertheless the turkey is said to be a dull stupid bird, and is often taken in the following simple and wholesale manner : a small shanty or hut is built near their accustomed feeding place» with an opening in the side large enough to admit the birds, stooping; in and about this place grain is carefully scattered, which the birds pick up with- out suspicion, stooping their heads and feeding until they find themselves in the trap, then they raise their heads and make great efforts to escape at the top and sides, and in every way, excepting that by which they entered. They have less brain in proportion to their size than any other bird, which may possibly account for their stupidity. Another day, our farmer friend brought us ti- dings of some deer having been seen on his farm ; we immediately started in pursuit, and after several hours* chase came up with a couple; they were feeding quietly, and apparently so unconscious of our approach, that I might have had a steady shot, had I not unadvisedly raised my hand to give my companion notice — a movement which, light as it was, awakened their attention, and off they started like lightning, followed, though of course ineffec- tually, by the contents of our rifles. Sept. 15. The maize or corn harvest was now general, and the weather oppressively hot ; never- IN THE BUSH. 33 theless, the swallows have all disappeared within this day or two. One morning, while in pursuit of wild turkeys, a fine buck crossed out path ; each of us poured the contents of our barrels into his side, which he acknowledged by a mighty bound, and dashed away through the forest: — we followed instantly; and at length, by the help of a couple of hounds, borrowed of a farmer, traced him down to the lake shore, where he was discovered deep in the water, and fast bleeding to death: — he proved a noble fellow; fat, and in prime season, weighing upwards of 200ftys. — My companion also shot a wild turkey, so this was a proud day in our annals. ;'>..>! ''■•■■■ W* ' 1 '. ■'.T'la- 7 October. The weather continued mild and open; but as the days were shortening, and winter approaching, I determined to leave my companion, whose sporting ardour was still unabated, and return to Toronto, to see whether anything fur- ther remained to be done before the winter finally set in. On my arrival, several friends recom- mended me to visit more carefully one or two townships in the Newcastle district, which I wil- lingly agreed to. A steam-boat conveyed me to Cobourg, on the last day of October, where a heavy fall of rain and snow detained me a couple of days. An inn in a village or small market town is but a dreary refuge on a wet day in England; m !'? 34 SIX T B A RS but on this side of the Atlantic, where the guest's time and habits are subject to fixed rules, it is almost insupportable. At half-past seven in the morning, a loud bell gave notice that all who in- tended to breakfast should bestir themselves im- mediately : at eight, a repetition of the summons was instantly responded to, by a general rush from all parts of the house and the neighbouring stores; for well the American, whether Yankee or Canadian, knows, that on these occasions "N^ room for lated wight is found." Instantly the work of destruction commenced — plates rattled — cups and saucers flew about, and knives and forks found their way indifferently into their owners* mouths or the various dishes on the table: — ^there was little talking and less ceremony — "I say Miss," (to the lady in waiting) "please some tea" — or, **I say Mister," (to me) "some steak, I guess I likes it pretty rawish," being the extent of both. The meal was composed of tea, coffee, toast, and bread, and the never-failing buck wheat cakes, with a variety of sweet-meats, crowned with a " pi^ce de resistance," in the shape of a huge greasy dish of beef steaks and onions. The company was of a motley description, Yan- kees and emigrants, washed and unwashed, store- keepers, travellers, and farmers. At the top of IN THE BUSH. .•55 the table, enveloped in sundry great coats, sat a large unshaved backwoods' settler, just dismounted from his waggon: — opposite to him, with his hat on, an amusing contrast — a little prim, puritanical, store-keeper, with well-brushed clothes, sleek coun- tenance, and straight greasy hair. Ten minutes sufficed for the despatch of the meal; after which, each and all retired in silence and haste as they had entered, stopping, however, as they passed the bar, for the never failing dram and cigar, which concludes the business. At one o'clock, the same bell rang for dinner. The post of honour at this meal was occupied by our despotic host in person, who dealt out a " Benjamin's mess" to each hungry expectant: — puddings and creams succeeded the substantials, which were conveyed to the mouths of the differ- ent guests with frightful rapidity, on the blades of sharp dirty knives. I ventured to ask for a spoon, a request which only drew from *' Miss " a dis- dainful toss of the head, accompanied by the excla- mation of " my! if the man be'ent wanting a spoon now! " There was no conversation; and as soon as nature was satisfied, the dinner-bolters severally rose from table and quitted the room. Having no books, and being wearied with watching the dull rain, and the equally uninteresting motions of the prim, sleek little gentleman, in his store oppo- J'fi'* 15 1. 1 36 SIX YEARS site, I applied to mine host for a book ; this ex- torted a murmur against the " old country people," who could not smoke their cigar in quiet; but after a while he produced a volume of Johnson's Dictionary, and a '* History of the United States, by an American;" — he had somewhere besides a volume of Extracts from various EngUsh authors, published at Boston, under the imposing title of " British Classics," but this was not forthcoming. These books are the staple, I afterwards found, of most North American inns. The '* History of the United States, by an American," it was clear, was pubhshed for American readers; indet J, it differed so materially in its narrative of events from the commonly received version at home, that it strongly reminded me of the old fable of the ** Traveller, the Lion, and the group of Sculpture: " — ^nay, not un- likely, I thought, it might have formed the study of a certain learned lord at home, previous to his declared conviction, that ''history was an old almanac." At length, six o'clock came, and with it a repetition of the morning meal: — ^there was no new feature in it; and as soon as the weariness induced by a day of ennui gave hope of rest, I retired to bed. In the morning, the sun shone bright, and as we crossed the tranquil lake, and ploughed hea- vily up the still, clear river, I could scarcely be- IN TH& BUSH. 37 1? \ I" 1 lieve that we were fast approaching the close of a Canadian November. At Peterborough, I pro- cured a guide and four boatmen to convey me to Verulam township. As we crossed Pigeon Lake, two Indians came up in a canoe, laden with a quantity of skins and other spoils of the chase, on which two noble hounds reclined. They offered to accompany us on our vovage of discovery, which I gladly agreed to, for my companions said they would prove in many ways a useful and agreeable addition to our party. One of them served as cook and fire-lighter ; which latter office he performed by scraping the inner bark of the white cedar, and rubbing it between the palms of his hands, until it was quite soft ; he then applied a bit of lighted tinder, and fanned it into a flame, which he fed with stripes of bark, and finally with large logs of cedar: all this was the work of a minute or two, and in less time than it takes to describe, we used to have a fire blazing, and a well-filled cauldron hanging over it. Thus attended, I took a careftd survey of Verulam township, and finally decided on purchasing a lot of 3000 acres, as a first investment of capital. This resolution made, we sped merrily back across the Shallow lakes, to Peterboro' — then steamed down the dull Otanabee, and duller Rice lake, and reached Toronto in safety, a few days before Christmas. |f9|' m m 38 IX YEARS My companion had arrived from lake Erie; the last traces of cholera had disappeared, and the terror-stricken families of the town were gene- rally returned from their different retreats in the country. The season, (for Toronto, like other ca- pitals, has its season), was also now commencing, and balls, routs, and dinners, abounded; thus en- gaged, with pleasure on one hand, and the business necessary to the completion of my purchase on the other, I found the year 1832 draw to a close, much better satisfied with the prospects before me than I had anticipated, and in a more easy and contented frame of mind than I could have deemed possible, so far from my family, my friends, and my own fireside. If; IN THB BUSH. * 39 CHAPTER V. New YeaVf 1833 — Purchase of Land-^Government Plan of Sale-^Departure for Peterboro* — Sheriff's Sale — State of Thermometer^- Dashing Settler — Indian Village —Indian Mode of Fishing — Grievance Meeting^^March Winds and extreme Cold—'Cobourg Ball — Break up of Winter — Start for the Bush—Misadventures-~Description of Estate — Beaver Meadows, January, 1833. The new year was ushered in with a fortnight of mild, beautiful weather, such as we sometimes have in England at the latter end of Februar y ; then the wind, which had been South, moved slowly round, and finally took up a determined position in the East ; the sky became overcast, heavy clouds collected, and one morning on awakening I found the streets covered with snow to the depth of several inches. This event was received with general joy by the gay ^orld of Toronto : mutual congratulations passed* and nothing was talked of but the pleasures of sleighing. I had exchanged my travelling waggon ^4 40 SIX YEARS I m for a cutter* before Christmas, so that 1 was prepared among the first to join the animated Ihronp^ in King Street. Meanwhile, the necessary forms for the com- pletion of my purchase in Verulam were proceeding as fast as the Government regulations would per- mit, so that by the end of the month I found my- self proprietor of 3000 acres of wild forest land, at the easy cost of a dollar per acre, or £750 provin- cial currency. All crown lands in the Colony are obliged to be sold by public auction — a system which works extremely ill in practise, though in theory it may seem a safe provision against jobbing and corruption on the part of Government agents. When an intending settler has determined on a lot of land, and ascertained the market value, he must give notice to the Crown agent, who proceeds to advertise the lot for sale in the provincial jour- nals, for one month ; afterwards, at the next Government sale, it is put up to public competition at the price named by the proposed purchaser, to whom, if no advance be made, it is of course knocked down ; but very frequently the public auctions are attended by men of straw, with the 1 ' * A outtur or single horse pleasure sleigh is rather a pretty carriugf*, built in the shape of a slipper bath, and uiouiiieil on iiandsome runners; tlie exterior is generally v rv gaily painted, and the interior thoroughly lined with nus. IN T II K BUSH. 41 express intention of out-bidding the real man, on the chance of transferring their bargain to him at a premium ; or, failing in that, of throwing it up, which they are at liberty to do when the first instalment is called for, thus equally injuring the Crown and the settler. When a sale is completed, one fourth of the purchase money ie required by law to be paid down, and the remainder in four equal annual instalments, bearing interest at 6 per cent.* Happily, Verulp'Ti Township was then too little known to attract the attention of adventurers of this description; and I had so arranged matters, that immediately on the completion of the purchase I was prepared to bid farewell to the capital, and move with all my effects towards the woods. No accident occurred on the road, if I except the upset of a sleigh, with the consequent dispersion of its freight in the deep snow; and on the evening of the sixth day from leaving Toronto I reached in safety the little town of Peterboro', where my head quarters were to be until the spring advanced and the ice broke up on the lakes. f * This regulation, if properly enforced, would be a check upon speculating adventurers, but it is not ; an omission which is again in favor of the rogue and against the honest man. f At Peterboro', I obtained for myself and wolf dog very comfortable board and lodging at four dollars a week. •',j R 42 R I X Y B A R S m t Fbb. 14. Attended a sale of land in the ad- joining township of Ennismore, under a distress warrant for non-payment of taxes. The day was very beautiful, and a fresh fallen coat of snow had made the sleighing excellent. Dr. Johnson has expatiated on the delight of rapid travel in a chaise and four ; Lord Cyrun, on that of being borne along on the back of a fleet courser; but had nther of them experienced the glow of health and spirits imparted by the motion of a sleigh, and the music of the bells, they would have given it the prefer- ence. Uncleared lands are subject to a light im- post of one penny in the pound, which, if not regularly paid., is suffered by Government to accu- mulate for eight years ; but at the expiration of that period, a distress warrant is issued by the sheriff, for the sole of such a portion of the pro- perty as will cover the arrears. Nothing can be more equitable than the process : — ample notice is given ; bud at the time of sale the question is put, for how many acres any one will pay the Crown dues ? The bidder of the lowest number is of course successful, and the acres specified are made over to him, subject always to redemp- tion on the part of the proprietor, within a year, on payment of £20 per cent interest on the money advanced. In this manner considerable sums have sometimes been realised by land speculators, though on the present occasion the extravagant w IN T H K HUSH. 48 sum of £3 per acre was obtained. After the sale, I returned to Peterboro* to dine with the Govern- ment agent, upon a noble maskalongy and a haunch of forest venison, assisted by excellent wine : a luxury which the settler ought rarely to indulge in in this country, where the price of a bottle of wine is about equivalent to that of an acre of forest land. 3d 25 — 30. The theniiometer now stood, with little variation, at about 22 degrees below zero of Fahrenheit : the snow lay deep, and provisions began to grow scarce. Pork sold at £2. 8s., and flour at £1. per barrel respectively : tolerable hay met with a ready market at £2. per ton, while at Toronto, double that price was asked and obtained. One day, I accompanied an acquaintance in his sleigh to the Indian village near Lake Chemong ; he was, like myself, a late import from England, whence he had unfortunately brought more money than wit, and was bent upon astonishing the simple natives of Peterboro*. His sleigh was built after the most approved fashion of Toronto ; and his horses, bedizened with ribbons and glit- tering bells, had cost him £40 each, or nearly double the real value of the animal in any part of the province. As he had to make his own way in the world, and to trade with his capital, I ventured ■il! ill! 1:1 44 SIX YBARS u to give him a few hints on the various means of employing it to advantage ; which he received as schoolboys do doctor's stuff— with a wry face, and determination not to take it. When his purse is reduced to a level with his wits, he will probably return home to England, to abuse poor Canada, and assure his friends that ** it is not the country for a gentleman and a man of spirit to thrive in.** We found several of the squaws in their wig- wams, generally in social parties of three or four, and all industriously employed in embroidery work, at which they are very expert. There were a few men idling about, as they always are, unless occupied in fishing or hunting ; for they have no faith in the Scripture assurance, that man must ** eat bread in the sweat of his face ;** nor have the pious labors of the Missionaries, I believe, hitherto effected any change in their dispositions, in this respect, or taught them to employ them- selves in any useful labor as a duty. They are strong and active ; patient of fatigue and priva- tion, and always willing to accompany the white- man to the chase ; but neither entreaties, bribes, nor threats, will induce them, under any circum- stances, to help him in his farm or garden. On the Lake, we observed some forty or fifty of them in their picturesque, gipsy-like tents, watching for fish. They wiU stand many hours together IN THE BUSH. m over a hole in the ice, darkened by blankets, with a fish-spear in one hand, and a wooden decoy fish, attached to a line, in the other, waiting for a maskalongy or pike, which they strike with almost unerring certainty the moment the bait is seized. In this way, a skilful fisherman will sometimes catch 150 or 200lbs. weight of fish in a day ; though, of course, very frequently they are a long time unsuccessful. m ;m iier 28. The good people of Peterboro' have been in a state of considerable excitement for some days past, in consequence of an attempt on the part of a few low radicals to get up a " grievance'* meeting, as seditious assemblies are here deno- minated. Placards were pasted on the walls, and advertisements in the journals duly announced the expected arrival of an arch- agitator to take part in the proceedings ; but, at the appointed time, the honest and loyal part of the community mus- tered in such overwhelming force, both as regarded numbers and respectability, that the malcontents saw no chance of carrying their resolutions, and fairly slunk ofiP the field with their leader, without shewing fight. There may be some ft w inconveni- ences which want redress ; but I confess I can find nothing like a real grievance in this colony, nor mn m m •r^'./i 46 SIX TEARS indeed room for any other than the most cordial feeling of gratitude and love to the mother country, under whose domination it is so steadily prospering. March. This month set in with clear cold winds, after its wonted custom in £ngland — ^the thermometer ranging from one to fourteen below zero, or occasionally even lower : the cold was cer- tainly very intense, but not so intolerable as might be supposed. On the 3d, the thermometer stood at two degrees below zero, on a south exposure, at midday, with a clear bright sun upon it : I was almost frozen by my fireside ; and on attempting to write, found the ink perfectly congealed. It was, however, some Httle consolation to learn, from the imanimous assertions of my labourers, that it was the coldest day they had ever known ; — ^per- haps though, in Canada as in England, the " cold- est day ever known " comes two or three times every winter. 12. On this day, the first sale of crown lands since December was held, and I had the satis- faction of seeing land in Verulam township, of the same quality and character as my own, sold at exactly double the price. Amongst other signs of IN THB BUSH. 47 improvement in our district, half an acre of eligible building ground in Peterboro' was sold for £55. and a Park* lot of 10 acres for £48. After the sale, a friend offered me a seat in his sleigh, to Cobourg, where he was going to attend a ball, I gladly accepted his proposal, and found myself amply repaid for the trouble, by a lively dance, good music, and excellent supper. The ladies of Upper Canada, like their sisters of the Northern States, are strikingly handsome in early youth, and pleasing and natural in their manners : about tii?r y couple of dancers assembled, who kept up 'all until nearly daylight. The next morning was ushered in with a heavy rain, accom- panied by a change of wind, which so alarmed us for the safe passage of our sleigh that we were obliged to make a hasty retreat. During the next few days the air was very soft, and sun and shower alternated, like an old-fashioned English April. ipr— FTjTT,, ;. ¥;. 01 22 The snow had now so nearly disap- peared on the cleared ground, that I began to prepare for my departure to the woods, having * When a reservation for a town is made by Government, a number of lots are laid out contiguous to the town itself, each of which contains about 10 acres, these are termed ** Park lots, " and prove of great use to the inhabitants when the town hegins to increase in wealth and population. #i SIXTBARS previously made a bargain with a skilful woods- man to clear me 20 acres of forest, (every thing connected with the operation, such as logging, burning, and fencing, included) for £3. 7s. 6d. per acre. He engaged to have two acres ready for cropping early in May, and the remainder by Michaelmas — finding himself in tools,* provisions, and all necessaries. The last week of this month was very lovely ; and spring made such rapid advances, that with the first days in April the forests began to assume their green liveries; bright flowers carpetted the earth, and all nature awoke into life. On the night of the sixth, the ice broke up on the Lakes ; ducks of many kinds arrived in the rivers, and pigeons in the woods. A large boat I had been building was declared ready for launching, and every thing seemed now to invite me to abandon my winter quarters, and take to the bush in earnest. - . , — ^>4 April 8. The anniversary of my departure from home: — a day of many and varied reflections. On the whole, things had gone well with me beyond * There is a manufactory in Peterboro' for axes and all kinds of edge tools, which are sold at a very reasonable rate, and being tempered according to the climate, are every way better than English, which emigrants generally think necessary to carry out. IN THB BUSH. 49 my most sanguine anticipations, and the promise was not less bright for the future. I felt that it would have been ungrateful not to have been very thankful, and alive to the many blessings of my lot ; still there were painful thoughts connected with it. I had renounced the ties of home and friends, perhaps for ever ; and was about to enter on a new and untried mode of life, with rude uneducated men for my companions, to whose level I must bring down my own feelings and ideas. The distance from Peterboro* to the Lake shore was about six miles, over which a friend kindly offered to transport my effects in his waggon. We started about nine o'clock in the morning; I, in my inexperience, beUeving that though the road through the forest was notoriously bad, a couple of hours at most would suffice for the traject : at the end of that time, however, we had scarcely accomplished half the distance, when the wheels sunk so deep in a slough, that two hours more were taken up in extricating them. The next two miles were accomplished with still more difficulty, for we were obliged repeatedly to make a corduroy ^ or in other words, to cut stakes, and lay them horizontally for the waggon to pass over ; but even this scheme failed at last ; and at a mile distant from the lake, our teamster declared F^' 50 SIX YEARS u the waggon inextricably fixed : our only chance was then to loosen the horses, and load them with the goods, which was done ; and in this manner we reached the lake, at six o'clock in the evening, covered with mud, hungry, and exhausted. On regaining the waggon, we made some ineffectual eflforts to draw it out backwards, but in the end were compelled to abandon it for the night, and make the best of our way back to the town. At day break I started again on foot, in company with three hired laborers, to rejoin the baggage at the lake side, where a boat was appointed to meet us. On reaching the shore, no boat was in waiting, nor was there any appearance of one on the whole water ; this was a bitter disappointment, and I fear I lost both temper and patience ; but after a little time, growing more cool, I walked along the shore, in the hope of falling in with some Indians, and procuring a canoe : in this I was unsuccessful ; but just as I was giving up the search in despair, I observed something like a boat beating against a rocky headland, a few hundred yards off, which indeed it proved to be, though apparently water-logged and rotten. Still it seemed a godsend; and when, with the assistance of my companions, who soon came up, we had got it on shore, it was pronounced by one of them, a carpenter, capable of being made sea- worthy in IN THE BUSH. 51 a few hours. It had evidently been ice-bound in the early part of the winter, and abandoned by its owner. We all set to work immediately, the laborers to caulk the gaping seams with clay and moss; I to make a paddle to steer by, and the carpenter to fashion a pair of oars : at length we got off, but my companions were wholly unac- quainted with the use of the oar, and my practise had not extended beyond an occasional pull on the still surface of the Isis, at Oxford, a very different affair from encountering a head wind and a heavy sea on a Canadian lake, in a crazy old water- logged boat : still, by hugging the shore, and alternately cheering and scolding the men, some little way was made ; and when, at night-fall, we landed to light a fire and obtain some rest, the carpenter announced that seven miles had been accomplished. The night was very stormy, and the ensuing morning, if possible, worse ; so that after an ineffectual effort to continue our voyage, it was decided to remain where we were. I took my gun, and wandered into the forest in quest of game, while my companions started off to visit some Indians, of whom they procured a large maskalongy or pike, which, together with a few pigeons, furnished us with an excellent supper. Towards evening the wind lulled ; and the men being now less alarmed for their personal safety. I'' '■ I .' i\ ■',s| I; 52 8IX TEARS exerted themselves with such good will, that before night-fall we brought our boat safely to anchor at Verulam, and I leapt ashore on my own territory. The next morning I was up with the sun, and abroad to visit my land, in the length and breadth thereof, in order to determine on a site for my future abode. A beautiful lake, emptying its surplus waters over a ledge of limestone rock, into a broad river below, formed the boundary of the property in length : and in breadth it ex- tended a considerable way into the forest, inter- spersed occasionally with broad meadows ; the real lawns, or ** saltus, as we used to be taught at school, of the ancient poets — " Where the wild flock that never needs a fold" were accustomed to take their pasture, and the scarce less wild Indian to pitch his summer camp, and breathe unconfined the pure air of heaven. These lawns or openings in the otherwise change- less forest are the workmanship of the beaver tribe ; traces of whose ancient consequence are every- where common, and not a little grateful to the eye in a land where all else is new : formerly, as is well known, these animals used to dwell in large families, labouring together for the common weal, with an appearance of design and providence in: IN T H K BUSH. 53 truly marvellous. On selecting a site for the settlement of a colony on a brook or river, their first care was to dam up the stream, which they contrived to do so effectually as to throw back the waters upon the adjacent country : in this manner, a lake or marsh was formed, varjdng in size according to the nature of the ground : by degrees, the trees thus encompassed rotted and fell; and then, per- haps, after many years, the beavers, actuated by caprice, or assaulted by man, migrated elsewhere, leaving the waters of the stream to force their way through the neglected dam, and find again their ancient channel and limit : the bed of the lake, thus naturally drained, soon became covered with a rich herbage, and in this manner a breathing place was opened in the heart of the forest for the air of heaven to circulate. The labors of man, however, now supersede those of these artificers of nature, who are fast becoming extinct : the few that still remain, unless, perhaps rarely, in the Indian country of the North-west, no longer dwell together in tribes or families; their bond of union is broken, and the beaver, where found, is now an isolated, solitary animal, burying himself in the most ob- scure fastnesses, from a consciousness, apparently, " that every man's hand is against him.** Yet a few years and his place will not be found, unless 54 SIX YEARS among fossil remains in the cabinet of the natu- ralist ; where, for his usefulness in making open- ings in the forests, and thus rendering them healthy, and facilitating the after labors of man, he will deserve a place beside those mysterious pre-adamite reptiles which some suppose to have eaten up the mud, and prepared the old continent for the habitation of mai). One of these meadows on my property is upwards of 100 acres in extent, and will furnish an ample supply of hay for winter consumption. The land lay chiefly on a gentle slope, rising gra- dually from the lake shore, and thickly timbered with pine and hemlock below, and oak and bass above. The Lake, with the fall and river, formed a beautiful prospect ; and I determined to pitch my first tent in the wilderness, so as to command a view of them. Meanwhile, I wandered on, forming plans for the future, and peopling the solitudes around me in my mind's eye, until the lengthening shades of evening warned me to rejoin my companions. A clear tall column of smoke, rising above the trees, marked their posi- tion; and a haunch of venison, bought of an Indian, as usual, which I found roasting at the fire, proved a welcome finish to the labors of the day. In the morning, after pointing out to the > 'il ■f IN THE BUSH. 55 men the site I had fixed on for the erection of a shanty, and measuring a lot for them to commence felling upon, I took leave of my estate for the present, and getting into the boat, made the best of my way back to Peterboro', to superintend the removal of my effects. ?,!- ./■m 1 wm 1 HP m ||: f-'^ i i III h r^ fifi BIX Y R A n 8 CHAPTER VI. Timber felling — Cameron' 3 Falls — Fish -spearing— Descrip' Hon of Log House^^Sunday — Ancient Indian habits — Capture of bear on the lake-^Necessity of salt for domestic animals— Daily mode of l^e-^Quarrel between English laborer and Indian, April 17. Having laid in a good store of axes and other necessaries for the use of the men, I returned to the settlement. The sun was shining brightly on the lake as I crossed, and a number of Indian canoes gave it a very pretty and animated appearance. One of the squaws offered me some maple sugar for sale, which I purchased at about 4d. per lb., and had the satisfaction of hearing it pronounced by my men to be of an excellent quality. As I approached the settlement, the heavy fall of the axe gave notice that the work of demolition was going forward; several hemlock and other soft-wooded trees lay stretched along the shore ; and I confess it was with a somewhat Elnglish feeling of sorrow for their fate that I step- ped out amongst them. A glance at the Falls, however, and the clear blue lake beyond, through IN THB BUSH. 57 the opening, reassured me, and I soon entered into the exultant feehngs of the choppers, aa one after another the noblest among these ancient lords of the soil groaned under the stroke of the axe, trembled for a few seconds, and fell. ml 26. This evening I visited Cameron '. F?ill8, (taking with me one of the woodmen) a grand and most romantic cascade, by which the surplus waters of lake Fenelon are discharged over a broad shelf of limestone rock, into a deep gulf fifty feet below; on either side, the shore was fringed wit i dwarf oaks, and covered with flowers and herbage, rendered more brilliant by ever-rising clouds of spray: above sloped a lofty hill, crowned with pines of giant growth, from the summit of which I beheld the broad expanse of the glassy lake, then lit by the evening sunbeams, and contrasting beau- tifully with the deep shade in which the mass of forest lay buried. I loitered on this lo^ ;ly spot, probably the first white man of higher rank than a wood-chopper who had ever visited it, until the moon was risen, and then, rejoijiag my com- panion, who had busied himself with preparing torches of the birch bark for fish spearing, we re- embarked, and floated lazily down lake Sturgeon, towards our clearing. Having lighted a torch and fastened it to the prow of the canoe, I posted myself J t <* , 'I fil .'^■' l> ^1 m m 58 SIX YEARS there with a fish spear in my hand, while the woodman directed our progress and steadied the boat : the strong Ught threw a glare on the water, under which it was easy to distinguish the dark forms of the fish, as they rose to the light. I was a novice in the art of spearing, but nevertheless succeeded in capturing several fine maskalongy and bass. It was past two o'clock in the morning before we landed; but the fire was blazing cheer- fully, and wrapping myself in a blanket, I was soon asleep by the side of my choppers, who were all stretched before it. The next few days were occupied in building a shanty, or rude hut, which an appearance of change in the weather seemed to render advisable. The month of May set in cold and wet; but I was obliged to go to Peterboro* to lay in fresh stores. The voyage was altogether miserable; and in ad- dition, I had the vexation to discover that my new boat was good for nothing: on returning, how- ever, it was a great satisfaction to find my mansion finished, and ready for occupation. — It consisted of one apartment, 14 feet by 12 feet in the clear, and contained, in the way of furniture, a camp bedstead, a chest of drawers, and a weU-filled bookcase; it had also the somewhat unusual luxury of a chimney, pegs for the suspension of guns and fishing implements, and shelves for my scanty IN THE BUSH. kitchen utensils: a hole in the planks sensed to admit light, and air found free entrance through numberless cracks and crevices; such as it was, however, it served my purpose well; and when the evening closed, I used to light my lamp and sit down to my books with a great feeling of comfort. Several of the classics, which on their shelves at Oxford were rather looked at than into, were now treated with the attention they deserve ; and in the solitude of the Bush, it was no light pleasure to re-peruse scenes and passages, every one of which was pregnant with some cherished association of school or coUege. I once thought, when the resolution to emigrate was first formed, how useless had been the large expenditure on my education, since I was to forego its advantages, and pass my life among those wha would neither know nor appreciate its worth; but I have found it far otherwise, and would say to all of my own rotation in life, whom circumstances or "a truant disposition good*' may hereafter lead into the Bush — ^think no sort of knowledge unpro- fitable, or unsuited to your plan of life, but store your mind with sound wholesome literature, and you will find within you a fountain as grateful as the well-spring to the parched traveller in the deserts Such was my situation within doors — comfortless enough it may be thought — but when on a fine «^i h IJP«— III 60 SIX YBARS Inuf)^ evening I sat at the open door or window, many an admirer of nature might almost envy my lot. Placed on a gentle slope, crowned with a luxuriant growth of sugar maple, the house faces the broad expanse of the lake, just where it discharges its surplus waters over a ledge of limestone rock into a rapid river or torrent, which hurries them along to the sister lake below. On the bank are scat- tered huge masses of stone, covered with lichens, and fantastically wreathed with creepers and wild briers, while the stream itself is broken by a little group of islands, carpeted with spring flowers, and dwarf oak and bass, whose foliage affords an ex- quisite reUef to the white foam occasioned by the fall of the waters. On the opposite bank rises a dark grove of pine, (unquestionably the queen of our forest trees,) which forms a natural and ap- propriate frame for the picture. 25. On calculating the price of my house I found it to be (including the chimney) about £6. 26. This morning I was surprised by a visit from two young Englishmen, who were going to explore the country, but the accommodations I had to offer were so little to their taste, that they took fright at the prospect before them, and determined to make the best of their way back to Toronto. -i; , I IN THE BUSH. 61 27. Sunday. I crossed the lake to visit an English gentleman and lady, recently settled in the Bush, who had invited me to join their family worship on the sabbath; the gentleman read the service of the church and a sermon, and the day was passed (as were many succeeding Sundays) very satisfactorily in their society. •* 29. Having observed a Uttle fleet of canoes on the lake, I went out, and bargained with an Indian for one for a couple of dollars. The canoe is made of the bark of the birch tree, lined with thin cedar laths, sewn together with fibres drawn from the root of the tama^ach, or larch. The length of my purchase was about 14 feet, and it was so light that I could easily draw it from the water, and carry it on my back past rapids or other impediments in the river; while at the same time its buoyancy was so great, that I have crossed the lake on a stormy day with the carcases of a couple of deer in it. June 1. Made a first essay of my canoe in a voyage to Peterboro* ; the wind being fair, I fastened a blanket to a pole and swept gaily across the lake : my return, however, was less propitious ; and after some hours bufl^eting against a head- wind, I was obliged to go on shore, and trespass on the hospitality of an old rough settler, who , ll.;; i!K'S;-^i! r~".^ ii< 62 SIX YEARS lived in a small log house by the water side, sur- rounded with a growing family of half- Indian chil- dren. The two eldest were handsome Veil-shaped, girls, of sixteen or seventeen ; these prepared the evening meal, while the old man related anecdotes of his early days in the wilds, and of the Indians with whom alone he used to associate. They were then unconverted, and had learned nothing from the white man, but to engraft his vices on their own : he described them as fierce, easily offended, implacable, addicted to drinking, even to madness, and capable, under its effects, of the most horrid excesses — even the murder of their wives and children. Thanks however to the Missionaries, these poor men are now actuated by Christian principles ; and are, for the most part, as mild and gentle, and patient of injury, as they formerly were the reverse. Our supper consisted of fried slices of venison, and wild duck stewed with potatoes: when it was concluded, my host pointed me out a corner, and then wrapping him- self in his blanket, as did his children, we all dis- posed ourselves to sleep. On awakening with the first gleam of light, I found my pretty cooks already stirring, and busied in preparing breakfast ; after which I took my leave of my host, and smi- ling farewell to his daughters, who would not utter one word of English, returned to my canoe. IN THK BUSH. 63 m It' m The morning was very wet and chilly, and the wind in my teeth, so that I was nearly starved with hunger and cold before I reached my own clearing. Dry clothes and a good luncheon re- vived me, and I had just taken down a book, when I saw a noble buck crossing the lake, in front of my window. To sieze a rifle and jump into the canoe was scarcely a minute's work; but long before I could get within shot, I had the mortifica- tion to see him reach the opposite shore, shake the water from his flanks, and trot majestically away. On returning, however, I was more fortunate, for I fell in with a bear, following on the same track, and after some exertion succeeded in placing my canoe in a position to enable me to send a ball through his head: this was a great feat, and very serviceable, for his skin was as welcome an addition to my wardrobe as the carcase to my larder. * Ir!''* '■ :.''i:: :j:h,. 13. Purchased a mill seat, and went to Peter- boro* to pick up information about it, and to hire labourers; on returning with four men in my ca- noe, we were all nearly swamped in the middle of Pigeon lake, an event which I looked upon as a warning not to tempt Providence in future. yiM 16. My men having now chopped down a con- siderable quantity of trees, I helped them to log, U ! 64 SIX YEARS that is, to draw them together in lengths for burn- ing. It is a most dirty and disagreeable business, and especially in wet weather; but as it requires great strength both of men and oxen, all hands are put in requisition — I assisted at this work for some days, but a dip in the clear lake at sunset removed all external impurities ; and when I sat down to my supper and book at the close of the day I felt myself again a gentleman. 18. Engaged in setting potatoes among the stumps, and fencing them against the incursions of strangers, whether human or savage. 19. Crossed the lake to assist my opposite neighbour in looking for a stray yoke of oxen. These animals are suffered to roam at will through the forest, which affords them excellent pasture in summer, and soon fattens them, provided they are suppUed with salt, for which they will generally return to their owner's clearing with the greatest regularity. It is said that the air of this central province is entirely free from saline particles, which are essential to the health of domesticated animals — ^but whatever the cause, the fact is cer- tain, that unless supplied with salt, animals do not thrive, and it is a merciful provision for the settler, who could ill afford the time and expense of a a IN THE BUSH. 65 herdsman, that this want compels his stock to keep within due bounds; indeed it rarely happens, where cattle have become fairly domiciled on a clearing, that they stray far. This month has been for the most part wet, cold, and cheerless. 1:1 ' a July 1. I received a letter, stating that I was appointed a Commissioner for the improve- ment of the inland navigation of the Newcastle district, and requesting my attendance at a meeting to be held at Peterboro*, where I immediately went to meet my brother Commissioners at their board : several plans and estimates were proposed and taken into consideration, and one or two impor- tant improvements ordered to be carried into effect. On my return, I visited some recent settlers in Douro township, and also an enterprising young man who was building an extensive saw mill, and laying out the ground plan of a village, which he hoped soon to see erected and peopled on his pro- perty. The site was weU chosen, and very beau- tiful, but not more so than my own ; and I could not help dreaming, that in a few years my own lonely hut might be surrounded with a thriving village, and the now idle waters of the cascade be diverted to turn a mill. It was a dream, perhaps, but Canada is the land of dreams, and what seems a "baseless vision** one day, is a reaUty the next. F I'iA V? hi 66 SIX T B A R 8 8. Returned home after a week's absence. 10. The weather was now oppressively hot in the middle of the day; but the evenings and morn- ings were cool and pleasant. I chiefly occupied myself at this time in the garden, in which I sowed the seeds of cucumber, melon, lettuce, parsley, endive, mustard, and turnip. I also planted some potatoes for seed next year, and picked out cabbages and brocoli. My days were passed in the following manner: — I rose early and worked in the garden until breakfast, then read for a couple of hours; afterwards chopped firewood in the shade, until three o'clock, when I dined, and resumed my studies for an hour: the next two hours were passed with the woodmen, in overlooking their work, and at six o'clock I took tea, and afterwards floated about the lake in my canoe, with or without a gun, until nine or ten o'clock, when I retired to bed and slept most soundly : my health was very good, my spirits even, and I was well satisfied with my condition. 18. The mosquitoes and black flies began to be excessively troublesome. 19. A tremendous storm of thunder and lightning: several large trees were struck on the I IN THE BUSH. 67 edge of my clearing ; and the crash of shattered limbs in the forest was very appalling : the storm lasted six hours. to 20. The air much cooled and very pleasant. Some Indians crossed the lake in their canoes, one of whom brought me half a buck ; I am now becoming acquainted with these aboriginals, and mutual attentions and civilities pass on both sides : they are honest and civil, and always ready to do me any service. On one point alone, that of hunting furs, they are said to be as tenacious as English landholders of their game; and as some white men, who have gone out for the purpose, have never returned, there are grounds for suspecting that they do not always confine their remonstrance to angry words or sulky looks. Each family pos- sesses an hereditary hunting ground, which is marked by bounds, well known to the tribe, and on which a trespass is highly resented. A skilful Indian will sometimes obtain in the course of the season furs to the value of £100. 21. Intensely hot: passed the day within doors. iV..,' i 23. *'Diem perdidi /" literally as well as meta- phorically, "I have lost a day." I believed it Sunday, 68 SIX YEARS hi'i and crossed the water to join in the service of the day at my opposite friend's clearing, when I dis- covered that I had missed my reckoning, and that it was Monday : so exactly does one day follow another, and so even is the tenor of my life, that I may truly be said "to take no note of time save by its loss." I resolved, however, to be more exact in future, and keep a stricter watch upon " the enemy." 23. Having purchased a gill net of an Indian, I set it in the river, and soon took a fine maskalongy of 14^tbs. weight, slices of which fried, with the accompaniment of a salad, my garden's first fruits, furnished me with an excellent dinner. In the evening, a young buck crossed my path in the forest, which I happened to shoot through the head — an opportune occurrence, for my larder was getting very low. 24. This afternoon, on coming off the lake, I found my English servant engaged in a violent altercation with an Indian, who owed him part of a dollar. The Englishman had seized his debtor's canoe as security, a summary mode of proceeding which the Indian did not at all understand, and which called into play all his fierce passions — he t€ l^il IN THE BUSH. 69 rolled his eyes, flourished his tomahawk, and swore he would scalp his opponent ; but my stout yeo- man had siuzed a thick burnt stake, in the protec- tion of which he seemed perfectly secure. On my approach, the Indian ceased his wild gestures, and throwing away his tomahawk, burst into tears, making a most pathetic appeal to my feelings : after hearing the case, I consented to be surety to my servant for the money, which was clearly his due, and allowed the Indian to take away his canoe, though not without a threat of severe punishment if he did not bring the money within a given time. 29. The oxen employed in logging, taking ad- vantage of a high wind which prevented me hear- ing their bell, broke the garden fence, and trampled and destroyed all my young plants — a heavy and, as it appeared at the time, irremediable misfortune. ** Breachy" oxen, as they are termed, are a well- known nuisance in a new clearing, and ought to be destroyed, for when they have once got the habit of trespassing they are never broken oi it. 1 - , August I. A wet morning, succeeded by a bright sunny day — I have never known an entire wet day in this country, and the woodmen tell me that such a thing is unknown. / ^ 70 SIX Y B A RS . t 3, 4, 5. A long excursion, duck shooting, in the course of which I killed 12 couple. 7. The original roof of my shanty being only of rude logs, I thought it expedient to new roof it entirely, after the most approved fashion, with thin pieces of deal cut into squares like slate. "I ' 10. To day, my men commenced mowing the Beaver meadow for hay ; and I had the extreme satisfaction of finding the potatoes and other garden vegetables recovering the rude treatment of the oxen, and making vigorous shoots. 20. Went to Peterboro*; where a rapid im- provem(ent had taken place during the summer — new houses had been built, new shops opened, and a large influx of inhabitants had arrived. I had been so many weeks absent, that I had forgotten to change my half-Indian costume before I left the woods, consequently my old acquaintance recognised me with difficulty, and especially as the sun had sadly changed my complexion, even the boys in the street hooted as I passed. * 21. The hottest day I have yet experienced by several degrees. I INTHUDU.SH. ^ 22. Having sent away all my men to bring a raft up the river, I was left alone in the forest, and felt, in spite of Lord Byron, that " this was indeed solitude." One night I was awakened by a short uneasy bark from the wolf dog at my side. I started up, and seizing my rifle, unbolted the window, out of which the dog sprung over my shoulder ; it was perfectly dark, but by a low short growl, and the silence of the dog, I conjectured that my visitor was a bear, and that both parties were satisfied to retreat without coming into closer contact. 26. Having now been some days alone, I be- gan to look anxiously for the return of my men; about noon, four travellers arrived from Peterboro ; they were new to the Bush, and stared when I requested them to help me to prepare for their entertainment, but they soon entered into the spirit of the thing, and as in the good old patriarchal days, one baked, another attended to the roast, while a third prepared the vegetables. In due time, I set before them a repast of the usual forest fare — fish, fowl, and venison — which my guests pronounced sumptuous, and enjoyed not the less on account of its novelty. Sept. 22. The men returned from their ex- i 72 SIX YEARS pedition, bringing some information requiring my presence at Cobourg. I had been so long in the woods, that I felt uncomfortable at the idea of mixing in society again. There, however, I learned that the Lieutenant Governor was meditating a tour of inspection into the Newcastle district, and that as he wished to survey the improvements con- templated in the navigation of the lakes, I should assuredly receive a visit, for that his Excellency regarded the inconveniences of a shanty as little as the most experienced backwoodsman. J- tf',;' IN THE BUSH, 73 le of ;d a id 1- Id -y le CHAPTER VII. * f Autumn — New Settlers — Htirricane — Survey of site for a Vilhge — Atrival of several Families — Indian Camp — Squirrel Barking — Indian Summer — Narrow escape from Drowning — Christmas day — Grant of the Provincial Parliament to the Township — Anniversary of departure from England — Statement of outlay on 20 acres of Land, House and Appendages. Sept. Towards the end of this month, the heat of the sun had so much abated, that one might pass the whole day out of doors without in- convenience. It was a lovely season — ^for many days together the leaves hung motionless in the forest, and the calm clear lake reflected a sky of deepest blue. At this time a gentleman arrived with a party of workmen, to commence a clearing, on the lake shore ; he continued my guest until his laborers had built him a shanty, and a very welcome relief his society proved to (it must be confessed) the somewhat monotonous character of my life. One evening, two other visitors also arrived, with one of whom I had been previously acquainted : they had come to a resolution to \ ■ ! Hi! \m . ! ' J t 74 SIX YBARS settle in the Township, and were only deliberating on the choice of a situation. Altogether we were a happy party assembled in the wild forest. In the mornings, we hunted and fished, and made excursions into the woods ; and at evening sat down to such fare as our labors had procured, talking over old times and future prospects, and building castles in the air like so many school boys anticipating their holidays. It was a great satis- faction too to see others following so fast on my track in the wilderness, for the settlement of three or four persons of education and capital in a Town- ship always attracts notice, and increases the value of property. . Oct. 2. Very heavy rains during the last day or two. The men being anxious to get the wheat sown, endeavored to bum some logs, but after sundry ineffectual attempts, were compelled to abandon the task. 4. A tremendous storm of thunder and light- ning, attended with a hurricane : the wind raised my canoe, which had been turned over to protect it from the rain, and bore it upwards of two hundred yards through the air to the garden fence. I had the ill luck to be in the forest, where, among falling trees and splintered boughs, I soon became IN THB BUSH. 75 lost and bewildered : the needle of my pocket compass too refused to traverse, and each place I fled to in turn for refuge seemed more exposed than the one I had quitted : the mingled roar of the elements, and the din occasioned by their fury in the forest, was perfectly appalling ; while the pelting of the hail, together v/ith a whirlwind of shrivelled leaves, nearly deprived me of sight, and seemed to render even the attempt at self- preservation hopeless : for nearly six hours I was thus exposed ; until, at length, the storm subsid- ing a little, I had the inexpressible comfort of stumbling upon a familiar blaze, which in due time led me to my own clearing, bruised indeed and very weary, but still most tiiankful to have escaped with life. m 5. To-day again the hurricane returned at intervals : violent gusts of wind swept through the forest, uprooting several tall trees at the edge of the clearing. The lake was one vast sheet of foam, and even the roar of the rapids was drowned in the general tumult. , - 6. A Land Surveyor arrived to-day to lay out the ground plan of a village, which some projected public works on our chain of lakes is likely to i': I 76 SIX YEARS call into existence on my property. We measured several lots, and in many instances had bidders for them immediately. One person proposed to open a tavern; which, if respectably conducted, will be very useful to the infant settlement. The intention of Government, (sanctioned by the Legis- lature,) is to cut a canal between Lake Sturgeon and Pigeon Lake, for the purpose of avoiding the present dangerous river and rapids, and connect- ing the navigation of the two Lakes. Such an undertaking I had in some degree anticipated when I selected my lot of land; but I had not imagined that it would have been so soon executed, or that the interests of our rude district could so soon have attracted public attention. From this time I may fairly consider the value of my pro- perty in the market quadrupled. 24. Yesterday, two large flat-bottomed boats arrived with the families and effects of the new settlers, at the projected village. The sound of the axe and the hammer, and the mixed voices of women and children, fell strangely but deUght- fully on my ear, as I strolled along the shore this evening : a striking contrast to the time, only a few weeks past, when on the temporary absence of the woodmen I was left alone in the howling wilderness. . ^,.. ,.,■ IN THE BUSH. 77 27. An Indian camp has been formed on the opposite shore of the Lake for the autumn hunt : two of the men brought me a present of a haunch of venison, with an invitation to join them in the chase : in two days we succeeded in taking three deer, one of which fell to mv rifle. 30. This morning I was favored with a visit from three Indian ladies, seemingly, however, under the vows of La Trappe, for not one word would they utter, either in English or their own language : what freak took them I cannot imagine, as I afterwards found that they could talk fast enough when they liked. 31. Accompanied an Indian to the forest, to learn the art of barking squirrels : this is performed by striking the bark of the tree with a rifle ball, just under the animal, which is thus killed by the splintered bark, without injury to the fur or flesh. November, The men were now employed in logging and burning, a dirty, disagreeable work, at which I was often obliged to assist. 3. To day I bought some seed wheat at a dol- lar per bushel, and also a yoke of oxen, for which I gave £20, not however without some misgivings SIX YEARS on the score of prudence, having only secured a very small stock of hay from the Beaver meadow. 4. To day, the Indians reported the tempera- ture of the lakes so much reduced that ice may be daily looked for; for some days past the fog iias been extremely thick in the early morning, so much so that no one could move beyond the clear- inp^ without a compass; but now that the tempera- tare of the water is about equal with that of the ai^, we may expect bright weather again. 5. The laborers finished sowing wheat, and oalifcd me to admire the appearance of the clearing. 1 believe it was very creditable for the Bush, but 1 was scarcely yet naturalized enough not to take offence at the black unsightly stumps still remain- ing: time however will reconcile me to their pre- sence, and there is satisfaction in knu>ving that they will disappear of their own accord in a f jw years, quite as soon indeed as I shall have leisure to attend to the picturesque, or be in a situation to enjoy the luxury of a pretty house and gro^iui s. The remaind* . of this month was employed, when fine, in di^-ging, and storing garden roots and vegetables; and when wet, in excavating a spacious cellar for their winter deposit. I also laid in a large stock of flour and pork from Peter- IN THB BUSH. 79 boro', and hired two persons, a man and his wife, as servants, whom I have fixed in a shanty close adjoining my own: the man has engaged to make himself " generally useful, " as the advertisements run, and the woman to perform the usual domestic offices. The weather continued mild and open through- out the month, notwithstanding the prognostica- tions of the Indians. Much rain also fell, which found free admission through my new cedar roof ; in fact the laths were so much warped by the sun that nothing but an effectual soaking could restore them : — meanwhile the house was a perfect vapour bath. ^ Dec. 7. Several days of close, hazy weather, faintly illumined by a pale yellowish, sickly sun — extremely disagreeable and unhealthy. This I lej'rned was the " Indian summer," sometimes so Vcjry beautiful, unless the descriptions of it are al- together poetical. Such as it was however, the Indians pronounced it the close of the open wea- tiier, and began to break up their camp. The men took their departure to the Indian country, far west, to hunt for furs, and the women to the vil- lage of Chemong lake — their usual winter quarters. iWK Commenced underhrushing twelve acres of m 80 SIX YEARS forest, which my men hope to be able to clear during the winter. Underbrushing consists in cutting and removing all the young trees and brushwood, preparatory to their timber fall: it must be done in open weather, and if by contract is readily undertaken for a dollar an acre. If 1 1 . The lake was quite alive to day with In- dians moving up the water in their canoes; the sun shone brightly, and numerous flocks of geese and ducks were sailing about — a rare sight at this late season — so mild and open was the weather, however, that I transplanted several young fruit trees from the forest to my garden. |,<4 >■! 14. The thermometer fell suddenly last night, there was ice on the edge of the lake in the morning, and higher up it was reported to be nearly frozen over . 15. — 16. The frost continued extremely se- vere ; in the afternoon I put on a pair of skaits, and finding the ice apparently firm and good, ventured after a while to stretch across the lake ; about midway, however, the ice gave way in all directions : fortunately a long pole I carried ena- bled me to regain a safe part without much injury ; but it was a rash and foolish adventure and might IN T II 1£ BUSH. 81 have terminated very disagreeably. An Indian told me that the centre of the lake was known amongst his tribe as the " water that never freezes ; indeed it was the main stream of the river, or surplus water of the lake, and is never very secure even in the depth of winter. Most of the lakes and streams of the district are full of eddies and currents, which make their passage dangerous to the inexperienced at all times. The Indian is trained to know the position and cha- racter of these weak places from infancy, so that in their company one is always safe; but among the settlers, loss of life is not uncommon, and narrow escapes very frequent. 25. Christmas day; the second I had ever passed away from friends and home, and out of the sound of the ** church-going bell.'* It seemed very desolate, and unchristmas-like at first; but the recollection of the many advantages of my lot, and its abundant promise, soon rallied my spirits, and disposed me to feel contented and thankful. I ,■ January, 1834. This month was mild and open. Our daily employment was timber felling, which proceeded uninterruptedly. i . i February. Very mild at the commencement, " G ii: V 82 SIX YEARS m then a few extremely severe days and nights, which ushered in a bitterly cold tempestuous March. Provender for the oxen now failed, and I was obliged to procure a supply from Peterboro,' at a great expense of time, toil, and money. March 20. A rapid thaw, under a very hot sun; at night a soft mild rain, which continued through the greater part of the ensuing day. 23d. This morning the ice on the lake broke up with a continued rolling sound, like that of heavy artillery. 25. The ice continued floating about in large distinct masses. Having occasion to cross the lake, I took my canoe, and partly paddled where the water was ppen, and partly dragged it after me across the floating fields. 26. To day, news arrived that the provincial Parliament had granted £100 to our township, towards the expense of erecting a bridge over the river between us and Peterboro*, and in addition £20. towards the formation of a practicable road. This act of liberality will bring us within easy reach of the district capital, and also of the civi- lized world. - .■ . IN THE BUSH. SI . The month went out in the midst of hur- ricane and storm. April 1 . A warm growing day, succeeded by several others of the same character. The woods are beginning to look green again, and spring flowers to appear : pigeons have returned in large flocks to the forest, and wild fowl to the lake; the hoarse shrill note of the blue jay is again heard in the Bush, and the thrush and its pretty congener, the Canadian robin, gladden the clearing with their song. 8. The anniversary of my departure from England: I had now been nearly two years in the Colony, and in many respects my most sanguine expectations had been realized. A fine climate, fruitful soil, and the easy recreations afforded by the lake and the forest, had suited my tastes, and atoned for the seeming monotony of my exis- tence. I had also enjoyed to the utmost good health, and even spirits — ^that chiefest, perhaps, of all blessings — ^the "mens sana in corpore sano,*' and had reason to believe that there was before me a fair prospect of rising in wealth and impor- tance in this land of my adoption. On the other hand, experience and due consideration had con- vinced me that farming was not the road to wealth ,1 \:i>\h I ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^^^t^ 1.0 1 1.1 ||l.25 iJ4U4 6" — FhoiDgraphic Sdences Corporation 23 WIST MAM STRUT WIBSTM,N.Y. MSM (716)S72-4;S3 ^ 84 SIX YEARS in Canada, and that I might employ my capital in many other ways to more advantage. I therefore determined to let my present house and clearing as soon as an eligihle tenant offered, and devote my future attention to general business. Sub- joined is a statement of the outlay expended on purchasing, clearing, and croppmg twenty acres of land, and building a loghouse and other neces- sary appendages — Dollars. £. s. Cost price of 20 acres \ of wild land, j Clearing ditto by con- v tract J Seed wheat, at 1 ^ bush. " per acre, and at one • dollar per bushel,. . Expense of putting in^ seed, J Garden seeds and cul-i tivation, j 20—5 280 -—70 30—7 10 10— 2 10 20— 5 360—90 House and chimney, by \ contract .. } l"0-25 <> Furniture, 20 — 5 Carried forward, 480 — 120 w IN THB BUSH. Dollars. £. Brought forward,.. . . 480 — 120 Cellar, 10 — 2 Root house, 15 — 3 Bam, 200 — 50 Yoke of oxen, 80 — 20 Cow, 16— 4 801—200 One year's Interest at) a 4. 48—12 6 per cent ) 8, 10 15 85 849—212 Of the returns I cannot speak so clearly : a wet harvest, and great scarcity of hands (the usual complaint of a new settlement) having combired to injure the crop, which did not amount to more than fourteen bushels of wheat to the acre, or at the then price of wheat (a dollar per bushel) about £42 for the 20 acres. I do not however give this as a general return, but simply as my own : — doubtless many settlers have been much more fortunate, but stiU the first crop is liable to many accidents and difficulties, and the settler ought not to depend much upon it. With a capital producing from sixty to a hundred pounds a year^ independent of the farm, a gentleman of education kVK U'^ 86 BIX YEARS and active business-like habits may live very com- fortably, and attain to rank and consideration in the colony, which circumstances might preclude him from reaching at home : but with much less than this he will find it hard to get over the first difficulties, and will probably have many years of laborious uphill work to surmount, before he can expect to be comfortably settled. A young man with a moderate command of capital may do ex- tremely well, if he be careful, and possibly realize a considerable property; for money is scarce, and almost any interest will be given for it: but on the whole, the emigrant ought not to go out to Canada with the expectation of obtaining more than a comfortable independence; this he will pro- bably secure, together with the blessings of robust health and many quiet enjoyments, but if his am- bition extend beyond these, let him rather seek his fortunes in the eastern hemisphere, than in the rude inartificial settlements of the Canadian back wood. IN THE BUSH. 87 CHAPTER VIII. Peterboro' — Canadian Wolf— Destruction of Cameron Falls — Mohawk and Chippewa Indians — Erection of a Sawmill — Change of Residence — Vint of the Lieutenant Governor. April 12. The swallows have returned to us again, and their chief attraction, the mosquitoes and flies, begun to torment us. I have sometimes wondered whether the Indians before their con- version had any idol answering to the Syrian ** Baahihuh,** or Lord of flies. 13. This evening I accompanied an Indian on a fishing excursion, for the first time since the autumn : his tall figure, stationed at the head of the canoe, with the full glare of the torch thrown upon it, would have been a fine study for an artist. At the first lunge of his spear, a maska- longy or pike of 301bs. weight was secured, to which several others in turn succeeded, until at length our canoe was quite full. It was too late for the Indian to return to the camp, so he stretched ri 88 SIX YEARS himself before my fire : long before I awoke, how- ever, he had departed, taking with him a scrupu- lously exact partition of the spoil. 24. The necessity of purchasing garden seeds and household stores took me to Peterboro,' where a surprising alteration had been effected during the winter months; many new houses had been built, fresh stores opened, and a large number of set- tlers enrolled among the inhabitants. It then contained a church, post office, bank, agency office, circulating library, and two comfortable inns, with several private houses, where board and lodging might be procured on reasonable terms. May I. The waters of the lake, swollen by the melting snows, were risen to their extreme height, they poured over the barrier of limestone rock and down the broken rapids with a noise that was almost deafening. I amused myself for awhile in floating down the full and turbulent stream of the rapids in my canoe, an exciting but somewhat perilous feat, which I had formerly practised on a small scale on the back waters of the Isis, at Oxford. 13. To cur great dismay, the whole surface \ f ' IN THE BUSH. 89 of the country was thickly coated with snow this morning. 14. — 16. Very cold wintry days, followed by severe nights. I 17. A sudden and extreme change in the temperature. The heat of the sun became quite oppressive, and until the snow disappeared the glare excessively dazzling. In the evening, the near howling of a pack of wolves in chase drew me down to the lake, just as a poor beaten deer was about to take the water before her pursuers. A rifle ball checked her course, and halted the coward pack, who drew up in a formidable line at a little distance, fiUing the air with loud yells of disappointment and rage : occasionally, as I drew ofl^ the quarry, they made some irresolute advances, always stopping however when I turned upon them ; in this manner I reached the shanty, pretty closely attended by the hungry pack, who, after lingering a minute or two, retired, balked and supperless to the swamps. The wolves of Canada, unlike their European congeners, are ar- rant cowards, and have rarely I believe, if ever, been known openly to attack a man: they will follow on his track for hours, in the heart of the forest, trotting after him, and sometimes approaching i- \ I 90 SIX YB A RS i within sixty or eighty yards, but always turning tail when faced, and skulking away. They abound in the woods, and are a great nuisance, inasmuch as they prevent us keeping sheep. On first coming into the Bush, I used to be affected by a very unpleasant sensation, whenever I heard the brutes howling on the Lake shore of an evening, or saw them skulking about the skirt of the clearing, but after a time the feeling of fear wore off ; and, I must say, to give them their due, I have never known them disposed to encroach upon the limits which a proper sense of our respective grades in the scale of creation would suggest to them. 18. Logging and burning the winter's fall, together with the necessary garden operations, chiefly employed this month. On remarking the absence of the common earth worm from the garden beds, I was told by the laborers that it is never observed in a clearing, until the second year of cultivation 20. Two boats, heavilv laden with work people and artisans, passed up the lake to day, on their way to Cameron's Falls, which have been lately'purchased by two young adventurers for the site of a saw mill. Sentiment is out of place in this Colony, where for many years to come the IN THE BUSH. 91 ornamental must give place to the profitable ; the '* TO KotXW to the '*Toflrpiwo»;" but I confess it was not without deep sorrow I learned that in a few weeks one of the loveliest scenes in the pro- vince would be destroyed. It had been a great delight, on the long evenings of the last summer, to sail up the lake in my canoe, and pass a quiet hour or two at the Falls, after the toils of the day were over. The Indians, whose limited vocabulary rarely admits an inappropriate appellation, have given them a name, which signifies " listen, what a sound.** They have however but a faint idea of the sublime and beautiful, and it seemed very sad that this spot, whose loveliness has been wasted upon the heedless eyes of the savage from time immemorial, should be doomed to destruction just as beings capable of appreciating it were beginning to settle in the neighbourhood. I must believe that these master works of nature, though buried in a wilderness, and unobserved or unappreciated by human eye, are not lost, any mv, re than the countless flowers that are "bom to blush unseen.'* In the old world, we should people such a spot with fairy habitants ; but in this cold, dull, matter- of-fact country, there is no room for imagination to work, no cherished associations or ancient re- collections suited to feed and nourish it : all is too new and too real. I have sometimes attempted » ' 1 > 1 ■i f; ;A) m 92 SIX r K A R R to trace back the records of the Indians, but they have Httle to impart: even the forest trees are not ancient, the "gnarled and knotted oak" of the old world is utterly unknown. Tlie lakes and the rivers indeed are of yesterday, and so are the beavers ; but every thing else is of to-day, plain matter-of-fact to-day. 28. A great burn, during which the wind rose so high as to endanger my shanty and ad- joining buildings ; large burning flakes fell con- tinually on the thin cedar roof, which frequently took fire ; fortunately, water was at hand, and the laborers exerted themselves so cheerfully that the menaced evil was warded off. New settlers are often deprived of their all in a burn ; for even on apparently still days, the volume of flame will collect a strong current of air, which scatters sparks and splinters to a great distance ; thus the house is burnt to the ground, whilst the uncon- scious owner and his family are admiring the progress of the flames. 30. Attended a land sale at Peterboro*, at which I purchased a lot of 200 acres of uncleared land on speculation, at two dollars per acre. E June 1. Sunday. My English servant having IN THE BUSH. 93 strolled into the forest for an evening walk, got out of the accustomed blaze, and lost himself: at night, the occurrence of a violent storm alarmed us for his safety, especially as he did not return in the morning. After some deliberation, it was agreed for us all to go in search of him, in dif- ferent directions; which we did, though without success; but at night fall, after the last of the party were returned, and we had given him over for lost, he made his appearance in the clearing, thoroughly starved and exhausted. 8. Having purchased a couple of stag hounds, I went into the forest this morning to prove them. A fine buck was soon started, and went off in gal- lant style, followed by the dogs, whose music was so delightful in my ears that I stood listening to it instead of moving down to the lake shore, as I ought to have done, to intercept his course: pre- sently the dogs turned him, and then I recollected myself, and rushed down to the water side, just in time to see the noble animal swim across to an opposite headland, with a speed that far outstrip- ped that of his pursuers. The sun had now got high in the heavens, so I called back the dogs and returned home to breakfast. l\ If. 12. A millwright came to contract for the I 94 SIX YEARS erection of a saw mill, which he agreed to do for £'MK), exclusive of some preparatory works, which will cost about £50 more. 18. At the Rapids below the clearing, I fell in to day with three Indians of the Mohawk tribe, returning from the chase with a quantity of furs. One of them was Pierre, a celebrated model of In- dian symmetry. Indeed I do not think I ever wit- nessed so faultless a form and figure, whether for strength or beauty; I asked him if he and his com- panions had not been trespassing on the hunting grounds of my friends the Chippewas, to which he rephed, with a scornful laugh, that •' the Chippewas were women, and dare not look a Mohawk in the face:" — in fact, an ancient feud has existed for many generations between the two nations, which even Christianity has not succeeded in healing. The lake country of the district belonged of ancient right to the Chippewas, but some time since a por- tion of it was invaded and apparently conquered by some of the Mohawks. The Chippewas, defeated in many bloody encounters, at length gave up the struggle, and retired farther back into the forest : their quiet however was only the lull of the winds before a storm: for one night, long after their enemy were, as they imagined, securely settled* they came down from their retreat in overwhelming \. IN THE B U R H. J).") numbers, surrounded the wigwams of the slecpina^ Mohawks, and throwing firebrands into the roofs, butchered the startled inmates as they rushed out ; neither sex nor age were spared, and it is said that Bcarcely one of the invaders survived to tell the tale of horror, or exact vengeance from their tribe. This act of terrible, but scarcely unjust retribution, occurred on Rice lake, where a grass-grown mound still marks the Indians' grave. Near it, the set- tlers turn up with the plough, tomahawk blades and arrow heads, with other implements of Indian warfare. Since that dreadful night, the Chippe- was have never been disturbed by any aggression on their territorj', unless, as in the present instance, by individuals; but, nevertheless, the tradition of the Mohawk's prowess in the field has come down to the present generation, heightened by the co- louring of time, and I doubt whether the whole tribe could be brought to encounter my three ma- rauding acquaintance of to day in open fight : the very name of Mohawk is a bugbear to them, and there are few that will not turn pale at the mere mention of it. 25. Returning this evening from Peterboro*, in a canoe with a friend, we espied a spent deer, attempting to cross the lake before us in the moon- light: as we both of us had a well-stocked larder :>■ i i 96 SIX Y K A R S ut home, we could afford to be merciful, and per- mitted her to continue on her course unharmed. The distant howling of a pack of wolves along the shore told us that she had been chased by them, but as she had gained the water she was quite out of danger. July 1. This morning, I accepted the offer of a respectable tenant for my farm and homestead, and removed my furniture and effects into a new shanty, nearer the Rapids, where the saw mill was erecting. 3. All the timbers having been pronounced ready to "fia?** in their places, a **bee/* or gathering of all the neighbours, was summoned to raise the mill; they assembled in great force, and all worked together in great harmony and good will, notwithstanding their different stations in life. When the last rafter was fixed, a bottle of whisky was broken on the top, and sundry others having been distributed among the humbler members of the hive, the party separated, well satisfied with their day's work. The completion of the saw-mill was an event of vast interest to all the inhabitants of the settlement, who looked to exchange their rude shanties in a little time for neat frame houses. il IN THE BUSH. 97 10 Accompanied a friend and an ludiiin on a liunting excursion, to the upper end of the lake, where we encamped for three or four days. Our returns included three deer, besides smaller ani- mals, and a vast number of ducks and wild fowl : on one occasion, our dogs followed a stricken deer into the lake, and we had the opportunity of wit- nessing a chase in the water, a fine and exhilara- ting sight. Our Indian at last became so excited that he could not contain himself, but would swim to the assistance of the dogs, and at length the deer was captured and drawn in triumph to the shore, ivhere we were in waiting. These hunting expeditions are the great charm of the youtig settler's life, and go far to reconcile him to the privations and hardships inseparable from the Bush. 13. The evening being soft and still, I got into my canoe and paddled up the lake, to observe the progr6ss of the works at Cameron's Falls. A very few weeks had elapsed since tiie purchase, but with more than the usual celerity of this wonder- working country, a vast deal had been effected. A broad mill-dam was thrown across the stream at the head of the cascade, to stem the current and conduct it over the wheels of the mill; the green merdow, which for countless ages had :■, 1 ■?' 1 It. ■■. m ^1* 98 SIX YEARS afforded the richest pasture to the wild deer, was now browsed by horses and cattle ; and where the little copse of oak had stood, nothing remained but blackened stumps, interspersed by rude un- sightly log houses: numbers of workmen were plying their respective trades on the ground, and everything bore the appearance of an active and rising settlement. On returning home, I found a party of Indians encamped on my property near the lake. At first, I felt very much disposed to assert my manorial rights, and dislodge them ; but on cooler reflection, it struck me that, in their eyes, / might seem the intruder, and that on the whole it would be politic as well as charitable to leave them in peace, and live on kindly terms with them during their sojourn. 16. An alarming accident happened to day to one of my poor neighbours, who was attempting to blast a rock, without the slightest knowledge of what he was about : the explosion took place before he was prepared for it, and wounded him in the most dreadful manner. Medical advice was unattainable, nor indeed did it appear that anything could be done ; such simple remedies as our united skill could suggest to alleviate his suf- ferings were applied, and apparently with some IN 1 II E 3? U S H 99 MK'Ct's-. On nturnini^ from this Samaritan otticiv I found a niessengrr from the Ijieutenant Govei- nor, announcing his intention of honoring me witli a visit in a day or two — this news put the whole settlement in a fever of loyalty and preparation. At the appointed time he arrived, and after sur- veying the public works, and making himself acquainted with the condition and prospects of the settlement, assisted at my first dinner party in the Backwoods. There was a noble maska- longy, supported by the choice parts of a couple of bucks; then for entremets y we had beaver tails, (a rare delicacy) partridges, wild fowl and squirrels. My garden supplied the dessert, which consisted of melons, raised from EngUsh seed, but far ex- ceeding their parent stock in size and flavour, plums, strawberries, and apples — there were grapes too, rich in hue and beautiful in appearance, but unhappily, tasteless to the palate as the fabled fruit of the Dead Sea shore : the high-bush cranberry, by far the most delicate and admired of all our native fruits, was not yet ripe, but his Excellency was pleased highly to extol the entertainment, and to declare himself well satisfied with his recep- tion. After dinner, he christened our infant vil- lage " Rokeby,'* a name which may one day make a figure perhaps on the charts of the Province. Then, having completed his survey of the works, ;i t f) iif I S. 'i 100 SIX YEARS and enquired, with apparent interest, into the circumstances of the settlers whom he met with, he took his departure in a canoe, under the gui- dance of an Indian, to view the new settlement at the head of the lake, attended with the cordial good wishes of every class of our httle community. ♦ t * i/ A*.- .■e" * . ,jr;- IN THE RUSH. lai CHAPTER IX. Change of Residence — Vuit to the Sugar Bu$hf and des- cription of the Manufacture — Working of the Saw-Mill — Rise and Progress of a Backwood Settlement — Bush Fever — Profits of the Mill — Hazardous encounter of a Young Sportsman with a Deer in the Water. t» ' I i\ Havino completed the saw mill, the next ope- ration was to clear a yard, and fill it with logs, ready to begin work as soon as the season should permit. In this business my two oxen proved very serviceable, their patience and dogged strength rendering them more fit for the purpose than horses ; and their temper and tractabiUty inducing them to take their share of the labor almost with- out guidance. Like most of their brethren of the yoke in Upper Canada, they rejoiced in the names of " Buck " and " Bright." M m 20. The new tenant being anxious to enter on the house and clearing, I was obliged to remove to a ruder and somewhat less comfortable mansion. It possessed, however, the advantage of being situated close to the mill, which enabled me to I};' 102 R I X Y B A R S I ' make myself thoroughly acquainted with its ma- chinery and manner of working : which, together with acquiring a general knowledge of business, and learning the mysteries of the lumber trade, furnished full employment for the winter. Occa- sionally, also, I paid visits of a day or two to neighbouring settlers* families, which served to divert the monotony of my existence and freshen the current of my ideas. It was a severe, but very fine clear season : little snow fell, so that the ice was generally in excellent order for skaiting or sleighing, and the lake was constantly enlivened with groups of Indians, or parties in sleighs, the music of whose bells had a very pleasing effect. Our little settlement continued to improve during the winter ; and, with the exception of the loss of one man by the fall of a tree, nothing occurred to check the exertions of th» inhabitants, or to damp their spirits: this accident, however, caused a deep sensation, being the first case of death in our little community. In consequence of so large an influx of settlers in the autumn, I had thought it prudent to lay in a considerable store of flour and pork, which proved extremely beneficial to my neighbours, and re- turned me a considerable profit. In this country, ^ gentleman may, if he chooses, keep an open ^store or shop without derogation, and it is no IN THE BUSH. 103 uncommon thing to see a man of education and acquirement standing behind a counter. J April 1. A bright sunny day, followed by rain at night, under the combined effects of which the ice and snow began to relax their hold upon us. 3. The thaw continuing, I hung up my skaits to day, and once more brought out my canoe. I also scattered some grass seeds upon the melting snow, according to the most approved practise of the country: they are thus soaked into the light soil, and almost invariably spring up, and yield an ample produce. On reckoning the number of logs in the timber yard, it appeared that the win- ter's exertions had only furnished about 350, a very inadequate supply. In the first season, however, a large number of logs will be brought to the mill by my neighbours; who, according to the practise of the country, leave half their planks in return for the use of the mill. 4. A long continued thunder storm. In the afternoon I collected a quantity of gum from the logs in the yard, and boiled it down for pitch; afterwards I new gummed and fixed my canoe, and in the evening had the satisfaction of seeing her float away upon the water as lightly as ever. The I I Pi. ill' m for 104 SIX YEARS night being calm, I fetched a spear and a torch, and sallied forth amongst the floating ice, with so much success that in about two hours I had captured nearly a hundred weight of fish. The Indians atfirm that the maskalongy rarely or never feeds during the winter moAths ; certain it is, that no signs of food are found in his stomach at that season, during which he is always fat and high flavored; but the moment the ice breaks up he becomes perfectly ravenous, and then his flesh begins to get soft and vapid. As I was slowly moving along, a huge fish made a stroke at the gaily-painted paddle: he took me so entirely by surprise that I lost my equilibrium, and nearly upset the boat; and instead of spearing him, which I might easily have done, I was only thank- ful when he discovered his error and released his hold. \ 6. Having lent a couple of kettles to some Indian ladies for their sugar manufacture, I went to the camp to observe the process. There were several women and girls busily employed, while their lords and masters, as usual, were idling about, or carelessly looking on. It is however but fair to state, that as thev do not assisst in the labor, tio neither do they share in the profits, which arc r'omctimcs considerable, a'ld may always be !il IN TlIK BUSH. 105 looked upon as pretty pin-money for the ladies of the Bush; As soon as the sap begins to rise, which is early in April, the squaws betake them- selves in families, or select parties, to the Maple Groves, or Sugar Bushes, as they are called: there they erect a camp, and prepare troughs and fire- wood, and collect all the kettles they can borrow or hire in the neighbourhood: this done, they begin to tap the trees with a tomahawk, inserting a tube in each incision to receive the sap, and con- duct it into troughs underneath: each family or firm has its own bush, consisting generally of three or four hundred trees; these are visited in turn by two or more of the younger ladies, whose office it is to collect the sap and bring it to the fire. The most experienced among them is there placed to regulate the heat, which ought to be tolerably equal, and round her the rest of the party are busied in watching the process of boiling, and arranging the contents of the kettles; and finally, when by steady boiling the consistency of sugar is obtained, in delivering it over to others, whose business it is to keep stirring the boiling mass as it gradually cools and settles. This completes the manufacturing process: afterwards the sugar is weighed, and packed into neatly sewn birch baskets, ready for the market. A camp will make, u ,(ir >*l*l '.in. :. t i ■'■) f V 106 SIX Y B A R S in a fovorable season, between three and four hundred weight. The yield of sap is however very precarious, and entirely dependent on the season. Sunny days and clear frosty nights set the sap flowing plentifully; dull, cold, or rainy weather, on the other hand, retards it proportion- ably. A large quantity of molasses is also ob- tained, of excellent quality: indeed, whether from habit, or respect for the national manufacture, I much prefer the maple sugar to that of the cane. On. approaching the busy scene, one of the ladies hastily set before me a large basin of raw sugar, which even in my school-boy days I dare not have encountered: fortunately, an Indian who had fol- lowed me observed my dismay, and readily re- lieved me of the mess, and demolished it with high satisfaction. After the season was over, the party brought me a present of ten or twelve pounds of excellent sugar, in return for the loan of my kettles. 8. The fourth anniversary of my departure from England. On this day the saw mill began to work, to the general joy of the settlers, who were all preparing to take advantage of it. The erection of a saw mill is always the first marked event in the formation of a settlement in IN T H K BUSH, 107 the Hush. At first, some one or two adventurers, possessed of a little capital, purchase a few acres of land on the bank of a river or stream, where, in the provincial idiom, there is good water power ; two or three rude huts or shanties are erected, and a small clearing made in the forest ; by de- grees, others are attracted to the spot : the ori- ginal settler, meanwhile, has turned a little money, and embarks it in a saw mill ; this induces many to come into the neighbourhood, from the facility it offers for building. Then, as the settlement increases, some bold man is persuaded to erect a grist or flour mill, which again serves as an attraction ; a growing population requires the necessaries of life at hand ; stores are opened, a tavern licensed, and in a few years a thriving village, or, as in the case of Peterboro', an im- portant town, springs up in the heart of the forest. A gentleman came to treat with me for a lot of land, but having made a resolution not to depart one jot from a named price, we did not come to terms. On this day also I was attacked with an ague, or Bush fever, common to settlers in their second or third season. It is a terrible depressor of the spirits and strength, but for the most part is found to yield very readily to an active disci- pline. In my case, however, the disease was not so easily baffled, for the ice was not sufliciently I i ■^H m * fmii 108 BIX r K A KB broken up to admit of the passage of a canoe, and as yet we had no other means of intercourse with Peterboro', unless in severe frost ; consequently no medical advice could be obtained, and I was obliged to go shaking on, and getting weaker and weaker, until the passage was pronounced open: one day the fever left me delirious for twenty four hours, which so much alarmed my friends and neighbours that they insisted on my immediate removal, and fortunately it was found practicable. At Peterboro*, under proper care and regimen, I soon threw off the attack, but the oomplaint left me so weak that a fortnight's sojourn on Lake Ontario was recommended. On returning to the settlement, I found the saw mill working away in great force : on an average it cut daily full 2000 feet of planks, which I obtained a ready sale for at 30s. a thousand feet. As it may be interesting to future emigrants, I will state the expenses and returns of the mill per day :-«- Six logs, which cut 2000 feet. . One Sawyer, .. . ; One Laborer, £. 5. rf. 15 5 2 6 LI 2 6 Ir IN THK HUSH Profit,. 109 £. .V. tl. Returns, "iOOOtt. nt 30^. ^ lOOO, ',\ Cost as before stated. I 2 G £1 17 ■J This was in itself a very satisfactory return for the outlay expended upon the erection of the mill, but I had become so well acquainted with its management that I could relieve the sawyer very often, and so work it beyond the usual hours, to my considerable advantage. 6. A neighbour offered to exchange a useful milch cow for 3000 feet of lumber, which I readily acceded to, and thought myself a gainer by the transaction. Having little else to do at this season, I took my turn at the mill regularly, until the yard was cleared out, and all the logs of the neighbours sawn up. The principal demand was for deals, though several oak, elm, and cedar, were cut up for furniture, and other domestic purposes. July. This month, like its predecessor, was very fine and favorable for the hay harvest. Ac- cording to the Provincial Game Laws, deer hunt- ing begins in July and ends in February, but this law, like many others in a growing Colony, is only 1^' ii no SIX YEARS m of use inasmuch as it serves as a moral restraint upon the gentleman : the mere backwoodsman regards it lightly enough, and the Indian not at all. Of all the natives of the forest, the poor deer are most persecuted and least protected ; but still, in spite of whitemen and Indians, wolves, and bears, there appears no room to doubt that they do actually increase in the settled districts. After the saw mill ceased to work, I followed the chace of the deer very assiduously, and with steady success. In the hot season, hunted venison will rarely keep more than twenty-four hours, but I had now plenty of neighbours to compliment with half a buck or a fine haunch. On one occasion a young and inex- perienced friend accompanied me, whose ardour led him, despite my entreaties, to follow a buck through the lake in his canoe; for a time the chase was very spirited, but at length the animal, finding his pursuer gaining upon him, became the assailant in turn, and making a rapid charge, transfixed the canoe with his horns, and sent my hapless friend spinning through the water like a teetotum '» luckily he was a strong swimmer, and the deer did not notice him, or he would have paid for his temerity with his life : as it was, he escaped with the loss of a rifle and shooting accoutrements, together with a cooking and camp apparatus, which happened to be stowed in the boat. We M IN T H K BUSH HI had intended to have bivouacked in the forest, but our baggage being thus destroyed, were obhged to return home, under a broiling mid- day sun. August. This month was busily occupied in sorting lumber for the market, and receiving pay- ment. About the middle of the month, a large i^A was despatched down the lake, and in a day or two after I followed in person on board another. Each raft contained about 50,000 feet of lumber, and though of course very inferior in size to the floating villages which descend the Rhine from the German forests, yet they made a creditable appearance, and excited some sensation in their passage. During my absence, a party of Indians had encamped close to my clearing, as had happened once before. On this occasion I could not forbear attempting to dislodge them by a little manoeuvre ; so in giving them an account of the raft expedition, I contrived to drop a hint or two of an expected visit from some Mohawk Indians; the intruders said nothing, and appeared to receive the intelligence with per- fect indifference: but on rising next morning I had the satisfaction of finding the camp broken up and the coast cleared. 14. A summons to serve on the Grand Jury ^ took me to Amherst, where I heard a most useful i: 112 SIX YEARS i, and appropriate charge from Chief Justice Robin- son, a man of high esteem and consideration with his brethren of the Bar, as well as with the public. He presided in a plain black gown, assisted by a bench of wigless barristers. The business of the court was, I believe, conducted after the English fashion, and with equal dignity. The calendar contained a few cases only, and those of little weight or interest. November. I hunted several times this month, though the half frozen state of the lakes made the sport somewhat perilous ; and when at home, the old winter work of chopping and logging for the supply of the lumber yard afforded me exercise. This continued until Christmas, when I accepted an invitation to visit some friends who resided on the upper part of the lake. The passing year had witnessed a striking alteration in my circumstances, and I might fairly hope that if life and health were continued, the next might be still more productive of good. IN T H K B U S IJ . 113 CHAPTER X. Annual appointment of Township Officns — Bachelors' hall at Pcterhoro' — Opening of a Church for puhlic worship — Racoon — Indian marriage — Cold Spring 0/1837 — Young wolf- — Formation of a Steam Navigation Company — Cost ' of passage to England — Return home. January, Logging and fixing, and other 1836. "Bees," having been of frequent occurrence in the township since its rapid increase, it was proposed by a new settler to summon his friends to a ** house-warming bee," on new year's day. The party assembled in force, and hi high spirits, for all of us had parted on kindly terms with the year that was gone, and were full of hope and expectation from its successor. The mansion of our host was rudely built, and more rudely furnished; but if our comforts were few, our cares were fewer; and what with toasting "British connexion — Sir John Colborne," and other provincial toasts, in addition to the old English stock which it would have been sinful to have passed over, I fear the heads of many of us were I i 114 SIX YEARS as light as our hearts before we took our blankets and stretched ourselves before the fire. 4. This being the first Monday in the year, a public meeting was called according to law, to appoint parochial, or rather township officers: no difficulty was raised or party spirit shown, and well-qualified persons were generally appointed to serve. . Among other signs of the growing importance of the township, a court of requests was now opened for the recovery of small debts. I took some pains in having it established, for it seemed to afiford secu- rity both to debtor and creditor, and to save vexa- tious law expenses, for no attorney is allowed to prac- tise in these courts, and the award of the presiding commissioners is always final. A good sleigh road was also operi;-d to Peterboro*, which will make us in future independent of the state of the lakes. 24. A very mild sunny day. I observed a hawk hovering over the clearing — an occurrence as singular here as the appearance of a swallow -would be in England at the same season. In the evening a loud knocking at the door disturbed me somewhat hastily, which on opening I found to proceed from a friend, who, in some little alarm, told me that his steps had been closely dogged IN THE BUSH. 115 for some distance by five or six hungry-looking wolves; he had started to walk through the forest to our settlement by moonhght, without any wea- pon of offence or defence, which probably accounted in some measure for the unusual insolence of the cowardly brutes: I took down my rifle to give one or two of them a lesson for their future con- duct, but they had not ventured within the clearing. February 6. To-day at noon, the thermo- meter on a south and sunny wall pointed at six degrees below zero. A young naval officer, on a visit to my opposite neighbour, had the misfortune, in attempting to cross the lake in a sleigh, to have his horse immersed, in nearly the same place where I had been similarly served; two woodmen wit- nessed the accident, and came so promptly to the rescue that the horse was drg.wn out before he was entirely benumbed: but the driver, having taken off his glove to rub the animal, had his hand in- stantly frozen; they hurried him into my house, where a basin of cold water was procured, and the injured limb placed therein; every few minutes the water was changed, until after a time we had the satisfaction of seeing the circulation return, and restoring the hand to the rightful though somewhat imprudent owner. The remainder of the month was cold, but not % 1 1 116 SIX YEARS painfully so, for there was no wind or downfall, and the air was clear, Hght, and bracing. On the 29th, (being leap year) I mounted my sleigh, and drove along the new road, to assist at a ball given by the bachelors of the district at Peterboro'. •* A ball in the Bush'/* I think I hear my fair partners of former days exclaim ; but let me assure them that the bachelors of our dis- ti'ict are not at all to be despised, and that the ** rank and fashion" of the neigbourhood com- prised nearly 200 persons. ^ March 9. Sunday. A day ever to be marked with a " white bean" in the annals of our settle- ment; for on it an humble building, which we had raised for the worship of God, was opened for divine service. The highly-esteemed clergy- man of Peterboro* consented to officiate, and never I believe was there a more devout or atten- tive congregation assembled within the walls of a Christian church. Some time before the hour of service, our settlers had taken their places, the women seated, and the men for the most part leaning in deep thought against the walls. Several were in tears, and all seemed much affected with the idea of being permitted once more to '• orship God after the manner of their fathers, in the rude IN THE BUSH. 117 wilderness; perhaps, also, they thought of friends separated from them for ever, who at the same hour were about to join in the same services with themselves, and wending their way to more costly but not more sincerely dedicated temples. They who are privileged to live within sound of the church bells, and are in the habit of attending their summons at stated seasons as a thing of course, can scarcely enter into the feelings of the exile on such an occasion as the present, for his habit and mode of life, together with his (in most cases) eternal separation from all his friends, naturally leads him to rely less upon man and more upon his Maker. His undertakings, his successes, even the daily blessings of preservation and food, seem more immediately to flow from a particular Provi- dence, and make him serious and thoughtful. We sang together the Morning Hymn, and then the service was proceeded with. Afterwards, in the presence of the whole congregation, a number of young children were admitted by baptism within the pale of the Church, who, if it please God, shall grow up to preserve the faith as well as the lan- guage of their Fathers in this distant land, and add one more link to the chain which binds the colony to the mother country. There was but one feeling of devotion and gratitude apparent ; and I am sure that not one of the party congregated retired 118 SIX YEARS II without carrying with him home, and thence into his duily practice, a spirit of closer union and bro- therly love. Before the erection of the Church, and since, when no duly-appointed minister can be procured, one or other of the educated settlers have always been accustomed to read prayers and a sermon to the rest : and here I must acknowledge a debt of gratitude to the conductors of *' The Church of England Magazine," whose useful labours have afforded us both instruction and profit, and from whose pages I have often selected a useful and interesting sermon, when it has fallen to my lot to officiate. 23. St. George's day — ^the patron Saint of the Enghfcli settlers, as he was unanimously elected, in imitation of our Irish and ocotch neighbours. We were to have celebrated his anniversary with a dinner at the tavern, but a deep fall of snow de- feated our purpose for the year. 26. A swallow having been observed flitting over the still partially frozen water, I began to prepare to work the saw-mill, though not un- mindful of the old proverb that "one swallow does not make a summer.*' 50. So rapid has been the melting of the snow. IN THE BUSH. 119 that the lakes and rivers have risen considerably beyond precedent : many bridges have been swept away — dams broken up — and serious injury done; amongst other calamities, our new bridge on the road to Peterboro* is reported to have been destroyed. 7. The Gazette announced the dissolution of Parliament and the issue of writs for a new one, under the signature of Sir Francis Head, the successor of Sir J. Colborne, the most useful and right-minded Governor ever appointed to the province. Our township scarcely contained a dis- affected person ; but as some others were said to be less fortunate, it was thought advisable to show an imposing majority on the side of religion, order, and true liberty ; consequently all the freeholders of our settlement, to the number of nearly a hun- dred, marched in procession to the polling booths, to record their votes for the constitutional candi- dates, who were returned by an overwhelming majority. September. At the beginning of the month, a laborer brought me a young racoon, which he had contrived to catch in the woods ; the Httle animal soon became contented and happy, and was a source of great amusement to me by his pla> ful 120 SIX YEARS 11 ways : like a true savage, he showed a great taste for ardent spirits, which he would steal on every opportunity : nay, more than once or twice I fear, when he had emptied the contents of a glass unobserved, he was suspected of being very tipsy. Later in the autunm, when his tribe migrate from our forests, the poor creature, true to nature, became very restless and uneasy ; at length he took to running round and round the room with untiring perseverance ; at first I used to put im- pediments in his way, or upset him, but nothing checked his peripatetic propensities, or disturbed his equanimity, and in a little while I began to have a fellow feeling for him, and to move things out of his way in order to smooth his imaginary journey. ., In the back woods, marriage by ci^ i^ contract, in the presence of a magistrate, is permitted, where a clergyman does not reside within a prescribed distance. Individually, I have always persuaded parties to go to a clergyman from religious scru- ples; but one morning a young Indian of my acquaintance entered my house in the midst of a pouring rain, and sat himself down with great composure : at length he thus addressed me : — ** Well, Mister, I guess you pretty good man to Indian." " Yes, Jacob, when he behaves well." IN THE DITSH. m *' Oh mc! Jacob always behaves well; (after a pause) they tell me you magistrate." ** Well, Jacob, what can I do for you then?" *' Oh, nevermind; (after another pause) I want something." *' Indeed ; let me hear it then." ** Well, then, I believe Jacob wants to get married." ** Oh, that's your behef is it .'' but how am I to assist you ?" *• Oh, Mister a Magistrate — Magistrate marry Jacob very quick, as quick as parson." " Well, perhaps in your case, Jacob, I might, but where is your squaw." " Oh, she outside." And accordingly looking out I beheld the drip- ping beauty, with two young companions, waiting patiently the result of our conference, in the heavy rain. I instantly begged them to come in, whilst I prepared the certificate, and every thing being found proper, the knot was tied. The bride and her friends instantly withdrew, but not so the happy Benedict, who lighted his pipe, and quietly resumed his seat, to wait, as he said, until the rain was over. October 27. A prodigious quantity of snow fell this week, and the lakes were entirely frozen 122 SIX YEARS '*': I over, a circumstance which had not occurred so early in the season within the memory of the oldest settler : early in November, however, it all melted away, and we had fine clear weather to the end of the year, January, The court of requests was held to 1837. day, for the second time in our Township ; I was much disappointed to find the business considerably on the increase, and a great deal of knavery attempted by parties summoned ; indeed its establishment, instead of proving a security to the settlers, threatens to be a vast injury, by tempting store keepers to give credit inconsiderately, and consumers to obtain goods without regarding the means of payment. When redress was difficult and expensive, the trader was cautious for his own sake; but now he appears to give credit without hesitation, relying on the court for recovery. People also thus brought before a court of law acquire a litigious spirit, and I cannot help regretting extremely the haste with which several of us concurred in promoting the estabUsh- ment of it in our neighbourhood. February set in with a heavy fall of snow : the 23d was, I think, the most uncomfortably cold day I had yet known in the province. The pas- IN T II K U U 8 H . 123 sengcia uf a s^leigli were all more or less frozen in coming from Pctcrboro*, and one poor man so badly that his recovery was despaired of. Tlic cold continuing for some time, provisions rose proportionately: ten dollars a barrel were demanded for flour, and eight shillings a bushel for moderate wheat. March 2. The thermometer stood in the shade at 18 degrees below zero — one of our set- tlers was found under a tree frozen to death. April. Almost as cold, wintry, and disagree- able, as the preceding month; there were no signs of spring during its course, and the ground was generally covered with snow. No swallows ar- rived, and no pigeons, ducks, or other birds, made their appearance in the forest or on the lake. About the 8th of May, the temperature of the air rose a little, but the geaeral character of this month was also cold and harsh. Our settlers began to murmur, but their sufferings, though certainl) severe, were so light in comparison with those of earlier adventurers, even in the most ordinary seasons, that there was little room for complaint. 124 SIX YEARS July. The government plans for the improve- ment of our navigation are being rapidly carried into execution. August. A woodman made a capture of a young unweaned wolf, which had strayed from its dam, and was attacking a porcupine, from whose quills he now and then got a prick that sadly dis- composed him: the man brought him to me, and I made much of h m, and tried in every way to attach him to my person, but he had tasted too much of the sweets of libertv to rest contented in a cage, and after some days of a sulky, unhappy existence, he refused food, and I was obliged to have him destroyed: his original captor took the skin to the district treasurer, and obtained the government premium of 30s. for his job. September. In this month a highly important meeting of the influential settlers of the district was held, to dehberate on the practicability of running a steam vessel through our lakes — several spirited resolutions were passed, a committee of manage- ment formed, and a capital of between two and three thousand subscribed in shares. This was a promising beginning, and left no room to doubt that ere another year a steam vessel will regularly pass the very door of my clearing, and the spot, IN THE BUSH. 125 where scarcely six years ago I had first stepped out in the primeval forest, be continually thronged with men and merchandise. Having now established myself pretty firmly in the colony, and become well satisfied with my choice of life and prospects, I began to feel anxious to pass a few months among my friends in England. The saw mill had ceased to work for the year, and nothing appearing to prevent me, I appointed a trusty agent, arranged all my affairs, and stepping into my pretty canoe bade a long and half- reluctant farewell to the friends and companions of my pil- grimage, and the Uttle home of my creation ; and turned my steps once more towards the still che- rished land of my fathers, though no longer mine. As travellers and intending emigrants may be in- terested in knowing the cost of a journey from England to the Upper Province, I subjoin a state- ment of my travelling expenses from Peterboro' to Liverpool, which would equally apply to Toronto : Fare from Peterboro' to" Cobourg, Steam boat to Rochester,. . Canal boat to Utica, Railroad to Albany, Carried forward, .... 2 15 £. s. d. 10 7 6 1 10 7 6 i 12G SIX YEARS IN THE BUSH. £. 5. d. Brought forward, 2 15 Albany to New York, 2 6 Two days detention at % New York, ) Fare to Liverpool, 30 " £33 17 6 Maintenance is included in these prices, which are not likely to vary, excepting the fare from Albany to New York, which a strong opposition had re- duced below a remunerating price. Thus a traveller may reach the capital of Upper Canada, from any part of England within moderate distance of Liverpool, for about £40, allowing himself leisure to see aU that is remarkable in the route : and every year these charges will become less, as greater intercourse excites competition. A leading wind wafted us merrily across the Atlantic, and on the eighteenth day from leaving New York, our gallant bark dropped anchor in the crowded waters of the Mersey. THE END. '«■ f '»