IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // '*'#^. 2f'-,> €<6 '^^r^ ^% '/., 1.0 14 5 I.I 11.25 ■28 150 '''^" 1^ ■ 4:0 2.5 2.2 iiiiiM U ill 1.6 V] <^ ■^F ^^ ^^' Photographic SciencGS Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET f;'3STER,N.Y. 14580 (.^4) 872-4503 ^ V" V c^ ;v \ \ C^\. ^y r *"!;* ■•■..1 PREFACE. H ■f 'J Propofey ini his Volume, an Ac- count of the Tr an/a a ions of this Voyage^ and of whatever during that Time occurred worthy of 03- fervation, either in Relation to natural Hi- Jlory, or other Incidents until the loth of December 17465 ajid an Account of the Manners of the lnd\2ins frequenting the Parts adjacent to Hudfon*j Streights and Bay 5 and thefe Cufoms compared with thofe of the mofl ancient Times, What hath been done by thofe who have formerly gone upon the Difcovery of a North- Weft Pafjage, hath been made publick either by themfehes or others, with the Intent that A the II ti a PREFACE. the fucceeding Attempten might avoid the Hazards and Dangers they had met with, and benefit bj their Obfervations, For the "^ery fame Reafons I think myjelf ohUged to puhlijh a true and plain Narrative of this Voyage, which deferves not lefs, if not more, than any of the preceding ones to be commu- nicated to the Publick. ■'"" *■' ' ' , . \, nofe Gentlemen who fubfcribed to tms Undertaking will here receive an impartial . Account, and, 1 hope, will be fatisfied by the Reafons given for their particular Expedla- tions not being anjwered^ and will re^ ceive a greater Information of thofe almoft unknown Farts of the World, than they could pfjibly have gathered from any Treatife be- fore this-, and from this, and the Juccee ding Volume, will be able to judge what may be expeSiedfrom another Expedition^ T^be Account of the tVeather from the 7ime tj^ Ships went from the Orkneys, to their Arrival on the Weftern Side of Hudfon^i Bay, may be thought tedious, but I hope it will meet with the Excufe of thofe who Jhall think itfo ; when *hey conjider that nothing is more inquired after in a Voyage of this kind^ than thetemperature of the Climates which are ^opd, and that there is no other tV ay of giving an PREFACE. an Idea ofit^ than by fitting down the Wea* ther of every Day in particular, with iti Alterations and Changer^ never thelejs it is put in fitch a Manner, as it may be eajily pa£ed over. By giving a Particular Account of the Ice met with in the Voyage, of the Method ofma?iaging a Ship, %vhen amongfiit, and by infer ting what is obfervahle out of other Voy- Ggers into thefe Parts relating to the Ice, every one will have a clear Idea of the Nature of the Ice infuch Pajj'ages, and from whence the Ice proceeds, by which Ships that make this Voyage are Jo much objlruked. The Account of the Winter I hope will bi to the Reader^s SatisfaSfivn. I have been very Particular in defcrihing the Habitations which the People dwelt in during the Winter^ the Habit they wore^ and Manner of Living, as it may be of Service in any future Expe- dition, and what is obferved as to the Foivl and the Beajl , not being taken Notice of tp any Account before, I thought it might be worth the Reader^ Attention, , As to the Manners of the Indians frequent- ing the Southern Part of H}id(oi^'s Pay, and n A 2 at f.^ ^1 R E F A C E. as to the Efkemaax Indians iJDbo frequent Hudfon'i Streigbts, and the Wejlern Part of the Bay^ I have mentioned what I could attain by my own Obfervation, and that which 1 could rely on as FaSl, from the Re- lations which were made me by others. There being a great Similitude in the Manners of the Indians frequenting the South Part of Hudfon* Bay^ with the Manners of the People in the earlieji Times-, I 'thought an Inquiry of that kind might not be dtjjatisfadiory to the Curious. Father Laffitau, a Jefuit^ hath done this with rejpe^ to the Hurons a?id Iro- quois Indians, and where thefe Indians agree in their Manners 'jjpith the Hurons and Iro- quois, 1 have principally followed the Father^ but where they do not agree in Manners with the I roquois atul Hurons, 7 have there Jhewn the Similitude of their Manners with the Antients upon Refearcbes of my own. • , The many dictations taken from the At^ :ounts of the former Difcoverers^ not\ oii/y make this Accomit mo?c 'mtelUgible, but alfo make it rather to be a compleat Hijkry of all the Undertakings j or the Difcovtry of a JNorth'lVeft Pajjage^ than of one partial- lar Voyage, I was al/o in Part induced to this, as the fortmr Accounts arefcarce, (cl^ dom tukctuin I land, and are in a fair IV a^ ^ /• PREFACE. of being intirely lofi, as in a late Edition of Voyages they were rejected fv make room for Accounts of other Voyages which were more amufing. 7he Publication of this Wdrk in two Volumes injiead of one, as there is n$ Augmentation of Price to thofe who ba*oe Jubjcribedf 1 believe will need no Apology , and the Alteration of the Manner of the Work from what was mentioned in the Propofal, I doubt noty will meet their Excuje when they /hall fee the Reajons for Jo doing in my Pre- face to the next Volume-. There is a Necejpty to mention the Difin-- genuous treatment I have met with after I had fublijhed my Propofals, in having the Work reprefented as afalfe partial Account^ though no one ever read it, orfaw it, and that it was compiled from bad Materials y ds to the Faljhood and Partiality of it, thefe Gentlemen 1 believe will appear now to be as much mijlaken in that Re/peSi, as they were in their Reprejentatiom, that the Work would 7iever come out. ' ti As to the Materials from which the Work is taken^ 1 muft objerve, that, excepting Cap- tain Moor'i Log- Book, and one Report, a Copy of which I have, all the other Papers relating to the Voyage ^ a?jd which are in the Hands *» r» P R E F A C E. Hands of the North-Weft Committee^ 'were written by me ; and are Copies of Originals in the Hands of Capt, Smith, all of which (excepting two) were either drawn folely by me, or I ajjijled in drawing them j and alfo took the Minutes from which they *were com- pojed^ when out in the Long-Boat : What Pretence then hath the Author of the Ge- nuine Account, wh hath only made ufe of my Copies in the Hands of the Gentlemen of the North-Weft Committee, never faw the Originals, or the Minutes, or Jome of the Places referred to in fuch Papers, to boaft the Superiority of his Account over mine, as being drawn from original Papers as Jet forti\ in the Advertifement, and winch Papers he knew at the fame lime 1 was the principal Author of? Bejides all the Informations which I could have from the Shifs Papers, which, as Clerk, could not mifs my Objervation, My Intention to publijli an Account oj the Voyage, caufed me to keep a particular 'journal from ^y fi^ft fitting out i the Author of the Ge- nuine Account had no Intention of writing an Account of a Voyage, until Jome Weeks after the Ships came Home, As PREFACE. m As to the Author of the Genuine Account, betJig Agent for the SubJcriberSy he never was underjlood to he in that Chara6ier during the VoyagL\ he was in the In]iru6liom given the Captains named as a Mineraliji and Ur lift /many and to be as all the Officers above the Boatjwain were^ one $/ the Council. I beg Leave to appeal to the Gentlemen of the North- IFtjl Committee, whether they did not fo file him in the InjtriiBions^ and whether they ordered him to be received in any other Character than Mineraliji and Draftfman ; whether there hath not been a greater Part of the Coajl furveyed by Captain Smithy than ay Captain Moor, whom the Author of the Genuine Account always accompanied- and whether they have not a fuller Account of the Proceedings of the Voyage from the Papers wrote by me^ under Captain Smith'j Direc- tionsy than they have had by the Papers of any ether Perfon^ and whether they fiave found any Reajon to ^eflion their Veracity, 11 1 ' 1 ; I t \ ■ Veritas eft, et Prsvalebit, u ' " ISC ''''' k --,i ■^ir ;i! ^;^ / A N A C C O U IS^ T I O F A yor^GE^^Q, H E Ship California, Capt. Francis m.^ Smith Commander, lluled from the Hope on the Expedition, for the Difcovcry of a North-Well Paf- fage, on Sunday Morning the 26th o^ May 1746, her Confort, the Dcbbs, having iuiled the Evening before. Both Siiips met a^ gain m IIofely^Bay, on Monday Afternoon, and v there jonied the Convoy. The Convoy and Fleet, in which were four Ships belonging to the Hudfon^s-Bay Company, ,, iatled early on ^luefday Morning, arriving in Tar- fnouih Roads that Evening; where the California "nngguig one of her Mails was not ready to fol- ^ low h;j. ■i#rf 1^ D / / 1 \' {ll/ii! > ^rifttjl. til||tNEY ISLES . I ' •'■^E ,X . LAND KtVv^ f O r £ ,/ .^' IK. —- of the ^— [HERN O C E^ N Scotland &C ape Fa«ewbl^ i. I- "it I ii'ir : ^^•' '//rf/afK/j' •Xi/iV [•JPHBTI-^** ^"^ If tZ/ORX'WBT I ^ h V OY AGE for the 'y ^9- low oil mjnc/day Ahcrnoon, when not only the 31ft. June 4:h, 5 th. Convoy and Fleet but alfo the Dobh got under Way i the Wind changing, they returned ; con- tinuing in the Roads until Friday after. On Suftday Niglit were at an Anchor off rinmouib, whither the Httdfon's-Bay Ships had hurried to arrive before the reft of the Fleet, that they might have Time to procure a Pilot for the Convoy, for the Northward, the Convoy not intending to ftop with the reft of the Fleet, had they not been becalmed. June the 4th in the Morning, the Convoy tlien off St. Abb's Head (after feeing fome Pro- vifion Ships into Edinburgh Firth) fpread an ex- traordinary Sail, leaving the California by four in the Afternoon (then in Sight of Peterhead) two Leagues behind her, and the Bobbs one •, and at two the next Morning the California was within two Miles of the Fleet, when, they fpreading the Sail which they had ftiortened on account of the Night, went away again, the Dobbs with them ; at eight in the Morning they were a long Way a Head, fttering as though they intended to go clear of the lilands, and dirc^ly through the Firth between Shetland and the Orkneys^ which, as the Wind was. Captain Smith thought impradlicable, therefore determined not to follow ; and as the Weather was bad, and likely to be worfe, con- cluded to gain Cairflon Harbour in the Orkneys^ a Place appointed for the Bobbs and California to touch lit, and iffeparatcd, for their firft Rcndc- ^'^f^'-'s. The only the ;ot under zd ; con- fer. On 'inmouthy irried to hat they for the voy not ?et, had Convoy me Pro- d an ex- ' four in ad) two i and at 5 within ding the It of the 1 them ; 5 Way a i to go he Firtb , as the 6licable, 3 as the fe, con- 'kneys^ a ornia to Rcndc- Mhe Dt/covery of a North-Weft PaJJ'age, The hazy and rainy Weather with hard Squalls ^""®' of Wind made it fome Time before the Land, which afterward proved the MuUhead, could be diftinguiflied. At three palled Coppinjloa within half a Mile. Before four were by Roffnefs Point, and into Ham Sound ; where on firing a Swivel three People came Aboard, two of them offer- ing their Service as Pilots for Cairfion Harbour, which almoft every one in that Part is qualified for ; which Fact if not known by a Commander, their odd Appearance may be an Objedion to his imployingthem. One of them (laid About d, the other two went to a Ship coming in, which as wc afterwards learned was bound for Jntegoa^ and had kept Company with the Convoy from Tar- mouth, but now being left, would not have dared to come in with the Land, had Hie not Icen the California enter before her. At eight in the Evening we anchored in Cairfion Harbour, in which was the Shirk Slcop of War, Captain Mid- dleton, whom we faluted, and our Salute was anfwered. At Night we had extreme bad Weather, but the Convoy and the other Ships were fecure in Kirkwall Bay : The Convoy having in the Af- ternoon applied to Captain Moor m the Bobbs to know where they were, and whether it would not be belt to go for a Harbour: Captain Moor fpoke to the Captains of the Hudfon~Bny Ships who confented, and one of them led away for Ham ^ Sound ; V %. June. 6ih. I2'.h. 13 th. 14:11. A V o Y A c E /or the Souml ; which the Pilot of the Man of War, whom he Hudfon's-Bay Men had procured at finmouth, l^new nothing of; the Pilot knew only to carry tne Man of War the Conrfe, thcmdjon-BaySKl were appointed by their >nfrr«aions to fteer be- ZZ"^'"'-"'"' l"^ *^ "^'^'"y'- ^^-' «n the next Mornmg they came into the Harbour, where they as httle expefted to fee us as we for to be rc,o,nedby them, they thought that we were loft; If not loft that we had got into fome Port in the North ot Scotland. _ Upon Thurfday June the 1 2th, the Wind com- iiig fair we left Cah-flcn Harbour, our former t-onvoy being exchanged for Captain MMletm m the Shirk. We were in all eight Sail, exclufiv'e of tne Convoy, the four //»^/,„'s. 5^^ ships, one , u/r'"f/' •''"°"''' '■"■■ ^'fi'"' the Doih and the Cahfonia. Were becalmed that Afternoon and fo m the Evening, but with a great Swell, untd about two in the Morning of the i,th • fine pleafant Weather ; at two a light Wind fprun'g up atS. W. whicl, afterwards proved a frcft, G-J thenS W. by W. withMiiling; /MW appea- ring like :;n ; .;:;i,d, at eight bearing S. i': by F ' E diitant about ten Leagues. I„ the Evciiing'tl,e' ^Vind moderated and the plealjnt Weatlier re- turned ■ little Wind and fine We.ither continuing all Mat Night and the ne.x-t Day :. when about two in the Afternoon we faw the liland of Eaft Barra \ W. A W. diftant four or five Leagues ; the Laftermoft Part formed like a Haycock, the reft iikc ,;'?■ f War, whom at Tinmouth, >nly to carry yon- Bay S\n^s to fleer, be- bout ten the rbour, where we for to be ve were loft ; Port in the Wind com- oiir former fi Middleton il, exclufive ^ Ships, one the Bobbs '■ Afternoon $reat Sweli, J^^th ifine fprung up rem Gale, efid appea- byE. ^E. /■ening the earlier rc- :on tinning about two -all Barra ^ues; the :, the refb like ^^fcoveryofaNorth-WeJiPana.e like a Boar's Back • Near fwn T , ** duces, or whif fhn.r . ^'^^"<^^ P^'o- ' ^^^t they can procure by Fifliing. ■'^ -s ;:: t; tir-'i^'^f '^s''t. w,.„ Morning clea,- of Ha e but' bio T '" *"« ■'""• Squalls; at eight lefs Win ''^T,'''^'"'^ '" tl'e Wind again ncrc fiT 'I """' '^^""' ''^ '''" Squal!,, with'-M n ,"J ''"""'"S hard alfo i„ WeatiuT continue "'and'te^r^'""'"'^'' that Afternoon, firin. 1 r^"'°^^ '' ^""^ anfweredwith five . "ft u ^"'\(^'^'^h were Manner as muft I, -l '"S '"■"'>aved in a Whole Fleet. ^ ^'^tisfaclion to the pcSto:;:::^^2";!'^^--e«,one. ehe//.^y-„,,5.,,hips wer f I r.-L" ' '"' "s we, yet we did not imagine rh' ! '' ^•^'" *"i> "s; and on the -:" n r'''"'°"''' '^"^^P .-.h t-ing ourCoorfe, they k " '^^"'■^'"S, weal- '•"'• 'heNislufointi;e,ylt,^^^f to 'i'c- each other for [hat y^^ '■"' '""''^'^''^ The 6 June. 1 8th. 19th.* 20th. 2 III. 22d. A Voyage J or the The Evening of the 17th was fair moderate Weather, with the Sea down, but about Mid- night the Wind S. frefliened with fmall Rain ; at fix blows hard, fqually with fmall Rain ; at twelve the Wind came round to E. and remained fo all the Afternoon with Showers of Rain to eight, when the Dohhs People, it being the firft Evening that we were left to ourfelves, gave us three Cheers, which were as heartily anfwered. 'June the 19th * in the Morning, had fairer Weather, though a frclhWind, in the Afternoon fuch Weather as on tiie 1 8th, but with this Addi- tion, that the Squalls of Wind and Rain brought a Chill with them, which continued no longer than the Squalls •, but on the ^ 20th and •= 21 if, to early of the Morning of the 2 id the Chill continued, and on the Morning of the 2 2d it was Cold, than changed to temperate Weather •, which Chill was probably not only owing to the Wind being between the N. and the E. butalfo to he- lm d^ which we were well to the Southward of, the firft of thefe Days, and which we were running the Length of with a N. W. Courfe, the 20th and 2ifti and the Cold on the Morning of the 2 2d may be attributed to our receiving the Wind at that Time, it being then N. E. over a larger Track of that I (land, and from the Bays to the Northward of I'uch Ifland (which Bays are » ighjaw^, Ix)ng. zi'', 57'/, W. I.ar. ;;9^, i*', N. b 20th "Jum, Long. ^q«, M^, W. Lat. 58", ic,//, N. ^ 21ft Jurj, LMig 29°, 4^^, VV. L-,u. 58^ i^», N, d 22d 7 /.;;f, , ^"cn coJd, Ming until theNooI;ftir"rcMf'''; to Iharp frofty Weathe in F I ] '' "^"'' '^"'• beyond the f%i '" ^«^''''«'^. continued, ofWindatMH f """ '''"' -^''Change vv ina at Midnight, to N. K. We!ltr"w"'"V"" " ^"^ «traordina.v this Year was bt^^'in Xft Par« "?' *V>,™S the Snow beiro- Ain\, T "' *" '''^t ''t'^ of Weil caufe fuch an Effccl. -^^^^onc Evening S AVOYAGE Jof the June. Evening we had an extreme white Fog, which was more difugreeable We.ither than any we had ex- perienced before, not on the Account of the Cold (though cliillcr than any other Part of tlie Day) but as the Fog wetted very much and alfo ftunck. Tlie Fog rofe but a fmall Way above the Horizon, the Sun appearing white tin-ough it, and in the Memifpherc above a blew clear Sky. The Fog cleared about eight. 26ih. The 26th was cloudy with Ibmc Sun-Shine un- til Noon ; at Noon clear with Sun-Shine, but in the Afternoon a Fog, fuch as had been the Evening before, continuing until fix ; then clear pleafant Weather. Captain Moor^ about eight running alongfide, hoilled his Enfign as a Signal of fome- thing difcovered, which, on going to the Mall- head, proved to be Ice, making like Rocks with high Pinnacles upon them, not lefs in Circum- ference than 10 Miles, 6 or 7 Leagues diftant N. W. by N. our Courfe N. W. by W. This Ice was by twelve difcerned from the Deck, and at two there appeared fomething like a high Cape or Point of Land •, but our View was further in- terrupted by the Weather changing to clofe and hazy. 27th. The Morning of the 2 /-rh continued hazy with Mifling, at fix it fell to little Wind at t\ with a fmal; Sv/ell, the Air chill and damp. Soon after ciyl .5 fuddenly cold and a thick Fog, which Circumftances confirmed to Captain Smithy that Ice -5«JWV vhich was e had ex- it of the rt of the 1 and alfo above the gh it, and ky. The Shine un- c, but ill Evening ' pleafunt running of fome- he MaH- )cks with Circum- 'S diftant ^ This :ck, and gh Cape irther in- rlofe and azy with L,. with a )on after , which 'th, that Ice Difcovery of a North^WeJi Pafage, 9 Ice was near, and we foon perceived a large Piece June. a Head of the Dobbss whofe People, on being hailed, flopped the Ship's Way, and the Piece fwam clear, of a fcraggy Form ; the Colour W hite tinged with Azure, the Azure the more prevalent : At eleven faw more Ice, the Fog ftill continuing -, about half an Hour after eleven Pieces ot ice again, which became more fre- quent, large Pieces firft, then large and fmall Pieces fwimming thick and near together, many of the large Pieces ten Yards over and ti^irty round : The fmall Pieces moftly white, but the large azure with an upper Coat or Rind of White, the Sea calm and pcrfedly fmooth, though the' Wind was frefhcned ; the Water making a Roar- ing through Cavities wrought by it in the large Pieces i and a ruihing Noifc as it palTes over, or afide of the fmall and low Pieces, dippinsr, as they fwim, from their being impelled by the Wind or from their Motion not being propor^ tionably fait with that of the Current. Upon Captain Moor\ Defire, we altered our Courfe ; foon after fallmg in witii what is termed heavy Ice, confuting of many lurge and high ^ Pi.ces, fbme equal in Heighth to the Ship's Deck. and fome few higher. Being furrounded by Ice HMl ^fZV' "'''''^ ^^^^^Z^is, between thefe Hills of White and Azure, the Roar and Rufh of the Sea heard on all Parts, the Fog confining our View to a very narrow Diftance, and prefentlng continually irclh Objeds, although it could not ^ but A,ims^^r' - '^-M?lS»i.ti^tmts%>;.~j„^ 10 AVoYAGE jbr the but raife our Attention from the Novelty of the Scene, yet it afforded no Occafion to rj»ife our Fears, there being no real Danger. The Lieute- nant ahead comes to, or diredbs theManatthe Helm how to fteer, and to avoid any Piece of Ice, as it is coming ahead j and if the Ship cannot go clear, but muft engafjje with ftich Piece- then by a proper Management of the Fore and Main-topfails which only are out, her Motion is lb flopped that ihe may go gently up to it, and the Piece is pulhed off with afhen Poles of 1 8 Feet long, (hod with Iron, which from their Ufe are called Ice-Poles. When the Ice would permit, a Signal was made to Captain Moor by firing of Guns (for the Fog ftill continued) for Tacking, which he anfwered i and in about half an Hour fit clearing up) we faw him half a League aftern and ftaid for him un- til he came up. At four tacked, fell in again with more loofe Iflands of Ice ; at half an Hour after four, ftood S. by W. fuppofing thereby to get a clear Sea •, Hiattercd Ice until fix, and at fevcn we were in a clear Sea. To-nigh:, and alfo the Evening before, we law Birds which were of the Size of a wild Duck, either fingle, two or three together, or in large Flocks, fwimming on the Water, and which, when fired at, would juft Ikim above the Surface, and fettle within a few Feel from the Place they role at: They arc of a light Brown from the upper Part of their Beak, uncicr their Eyes, and over the Head, down the hinder Part of their Neck and Wings, excepting the lurLH' elty of the r^ife our ^he Lieute- itthe Helm Ice, as it is ociear but >y a proper )fails which d that ihe 2 is pufhed fliod with Ice- Poles. 1 was made >r theFogj anfwered i ig up) we for him un- again with Hour after ;by to get »d at fevcn nd alfo the were of the ^o or three ling on the Id juftlkim I few Feel ? of a light ?ak, uncitr the hinclei epting the large Bifcovery of a North-Weft PaJJage, ■ 1 1 krge Feathers which are black, and the upper Part J"nc- of cheir Tails : The Breaft and Body are white i and under their Throat to the lower Part of the Beak, they are by fome ftiied Cape Birds, by others Sea-fweepers, and are faid to be feen no where but within a hundred Leagues of Cape Farewell. The Night of the 27th was clofe and hazy, fo 27th. on the Morning of the 28th with MiQing. Wind 28th. at E. met with no more Ice ; and fuppofed our- fel ves to the Weft ward of Cape Farewell in Long. 49*^. is'W, and by Obfervation in Lat. 58"'. 12. N. upon going to the Maft- Head at Sunfct, and feeing no Land, after ten altered our Courfe more Northerly, Steering N. W. Cape Farewdl is the South-weftermoft Point of Greenland^ difcoverable, according to the Butch Accounts, fix or eight Dutch Miles or EngliJhL.tzg\.Ks from the Land, by them called Staaten Hoek or States Point, or Promontory, they giving the Name of Vaarwell (which anfwers in the Dutch to Farewell) to a Cape that lies to the Weft ward of Grm//^W, in Lat. 61. and remark- able by having a Bank off it, on which the Sound-- ings are forty Fathoms ; the fame Cape which Monck(o named in thj Year 1619, when he took his Departure from thence fory/^-ia/V^. This Staa- ten Hoek of the Dutch, and which all Englijfj Navi- gators know by the Name of Farewell, was firft difcovered by Capt. Davis in the Year 1 585 (who was the firft Difcoverer to the Southward and C 2 Wcftward tl A V o Y A 6 E /or the Weftward of Greenland) and named by him Farewell^ from not being able to come within two Leagues of the Land, as the Sea for that Di- ftance from the Shore was full of Ice. The Land was very high and ragged, full of great Moun- tains all covered with Snow-, for fifty or fixty Leagues •, it tends towa'-ds the Weft, and then lies diredly North ; no Wood, Grafs, or Earth to be feen. In a following Voyage made in the Year 1586, the Ice lay then in fome Places twenty, fome fifty Leagues off, fo that he was forced to get into ^j Degrees to double fuch Ice, aixl get into a free Sea. Mr. 7/^// afterwards named the fame Cape, Cape Chrijlian^ after the King of Denmark, in whofe Service he then was ; giving a Defcription fimilar to that given by Capt. Davis^ 'Viz. that it is a very high ragged Land, ^c. and the Ice lay far from the Shore, being thick to- wards the Land, with great Iflands of Ice, fo that it was wonderful : And in another Voyage, which was in the Year 1606, Mr. Hall fell in upon his Return Home with Land to the Weftward of Farewell, but fuppofing by his Obfervation that the Ship was to the Southward of the Latitude of fuchCape(a Miftake which, confidering theThick* nefs of the Air and the Inftruments made ufe of at that Time, might eafily happen) and not being able to judge by the Shore, as it was thick with Ice, whether the Land he then faw was Part of the Main or not: He fo relied on his Obfervation as to conclude that it was not Part of the Main but muft be an IQand diftindl from it, and to the South- ward Lifcovery of a Narth-^Weft Paffage. 13 ward of Cape Farewell, and therefore called the June. Land he MmFroft^TJland, after the Name of his Ship. All other Navigators agree with the Defcrip- tion given, defcribing it as high mountainousLand, theMountains like Sugar-Loafs, and thofe covered with Snow, Ice lying off it the whole Year. The Latitude oi Farewell, which according to the befl: Obfervation and fafeft to be ufed, is 59Q. 45/ and the Longitude 45°. being made, you are thcii fufficiently to the Weftward, fo that you may hawl more to the Northward. All the twenty-eighth, the Sea had appeared of a dirty green Colour, » Mr. Hall obferves that in the Year 1605, Cape Chriflian bearing n! E. by E. by Compafs five Leagues diftant, and ftanding to Seaward from the aforefaid Cape, he came into black Water as thick as though it had been puddle Water, failing in the fame for the Space of three Hours. The twenty-ninth was a dear beautiful Day, .oth. with Sunlhine and little Wind; in the Morning we had a Fog Bank E. N. E. much refembling Land feveral of them arofe in other Parts of the Horizon in the Afternoon. Thefe Banks will dagger a good Judgment to difcern in ^l t^^^^ Land may be expected, whether hey be 1^ og Banks or the real Land, efpecially as iuch Banks will often from the Sun's Refledion .•Ml '..*,.! m Purchaft'sPil, Lib. 4 Ch ap* »4' appear ..'^imM:^ H June. A Voyage Jhr the appear white in Spots, refcmbling Snow on the Mountains fo ufual in thefe Parts. To diftin- guifh whether it be a Fog Bank, or Land, you carefully obferve whether there is any Alteration of the Form, or Shifting of the Outlines, which if there is, as it is not the Property of Land to change the Form, you know it to be one of thefe Banks. We faw this Day, and alfo the Evening before, Bii-ds which fome call Gulls, others Strikers, about the Size of a Gull, a Head white with a black Beak, fome of them had large black Spots upon the right Side of their Head, others not : Their Wings ihap'd like a Hawk's, which, as well as their Body, are of a whitilh grey Colour, much the Colour of a grey Owl in England : We faw alfo Willocks, Birds too well known on the Coaft of Englandy off Flamborcugh-head, and to the Northward, to need any Defcription here. 30. The pleafant Weather continued to the Noon of the thirtieth, then hazy Weather at three in the Afternnoon, a brisk Wind with Milling •, in the Evening a Fog, which wetted, caufing Damp, cold and raw Weather; the Fog lafted until four on July ift. the Morning oVjulyxXxQ firft, when hazy but dry . . i jfc^ag ards -, clear Weather and moift Fogs alter- naft^Tucceed until Noon, with a fenfible Diffe- rence, as to Cold, when the Fogs were on, and, Ar when not, the Noon was cloudy but with fomc ' Sunfhine i and all the Aiternoon liazv with fmall Kain, which was much warmer than the Fogs i the Difcovery if a North- JVefi Paff'age. j^ the Wind alfo increafed ; in the Evening to- July, wards eight was lefs, and the Sea greW down, when the Rain ceafed, with clearer Weather, tho' the Weather foon changed again ; fmall Rain until twelve,and onjuly the fccond fmallRain until three .d Wind moderate, cloudy until eight ; then a thick fog and almoft a Calm ; fmall Rain at twelve, at one Rain over but cloudy ; the Wind fprings up at two, afterwards blowing frefh, and from five to eight fmall Rain, the Gale continuing with mifiing until next Morning, with the Change of Wind •, which was at Noon, to N. N. W from the S. by E. it was colder than it had been any l^ay before, and the Sea, which had continued from the twenty-eighth of a dirty green Colour, now appeared of a very deep Blue ; the next Morning there were Squalls of Rain, and about .j ieven, the Wind moderating, it grew foggy. The ' ' 1^ og loon gone but frequent Mifls between that and twelve J from twelve to fix cloudy, but the Sun breaking out at Times ; from fix to eight a Fog then cloudy and a Calm at Midnight; Wind To S. W. clear W\^.ther, the Morning of July the ,,u fourth until five; from five to eight mifiing, ' ' and from eight to eleven hazy with fmall Rain, which about eleven turned out into a regular tailing Shower, the only one we have had fince the eighteenth of June ; it grew warmer after the bhowcr, and a Calm followed ; hazy in the fore Part of the Afternoon, afterwards cloudy with fome Rain at two -, and at fix regular Showers. The Wind came about to N. by E. and at eight to w t,vS ;; I 1 ■■f'v'l Ha ^v.,. 1.^. i*^- • '.V i6 A Voyage for the July. to W. and at ten to N. W. moderate but caufing it to be colder •, about eight was a Fog, lb again from ten to twelve, and from twelve to two. 5tb. ' July\\\t fifth, a Fog which wetted much-, until four hazy with miOin g -, and until fix foggy, when the "Wind changed to W. S. \V. Saw fe- veral large Iflands of Ice, the Morning being clear until ten ; with an extraordinary bright Whitenefs in fome Parts of the Sky •, the like we alfo faw on the Evening before between nine and ten -, an Indication of Ice beneath. At ten hazy with milling j at twelve cloudy v^ith fome Sun- fhine, faw more Ice •, before one, clear pleafant Weather, it was much warmer than at any Time it had been fince our leaving Farewell, and in coming between Farewell and thai Part in which we now were, we were fenfible of an Augmentation of the Cold, as we increafed our Latitude. J 6ili. The Afternoon continuing clear and pleafant, faw more Iflands of Ice, one equal in Size and much refembling a large Gctbick Church, appearing white by reafon of the Brightncfsof the Afternoon ; but, as the Sun declined, it appeared of a bluilK Caft V fuch Weather as was in the Afternoon con- tinued all that Night, excepting Rain about ten, calm Weather until tv/elve, and the next Morn- ing Rain at four and five o'Clock with light Breezes afterwards-, heard frequently a great Kuili and Roar in the Water from the Pieces of Ice „y* Difcovery of a North-Wefl Pajage. ly Ice which broke off from an IQand of very large Ju^X- Dimenfions near to us ♦, feveral other large Iflands in Sight ; which feemed to be carried in two feveral Currents, the one from N. W. the other from N. N. W. and to unite in a Current we met with the Afternoon before, runnings. S. E.iE. A large Ifland of Ice overfet, or eat through by the Water, the upper Part fell in Sight of Mr. Hud/on, by which he learned not to go near the large Iflands with his Ship. Gatonbe in his Account of Mr. HaWs Voyag, fays, they met with many Iflands of Ice, which were very high like Mountains, fomc of them they judged to be thirty Yards from the "Water, « Bajfyne in his Account of Mr. Bylot's Expe- dition fays, " we failed by many great Iflands of " Ice, fome of which were above two hundred " Feet high above Water (as I proved by one «« fliortly after) which I found to be two hun- " dred and forty Feet high •, and, if the Report " of fome Men be true, who affirm, that there " is but one feventhPart of the Ice above "Water, *' then the Length of that Piece of Ice which I obferved was one hundred and forty Fathoms, or one thoufand fix hundred and eighty Feet, from the Top to the Bottom : This Propor- *' tion I know doth hold in much Ice, but whc- " ther it do fo in all I know not. Howevej: ** incredible this may appear, it mufl: be ad- cc (C 4( PurchaJt\Pil, Lib. 4. Chap. 18, D mitted r Jteft^; - 'fc ,;^ ;}^^. '- ■ ; :^ ,8 h Voyage for the J"'y- mittcd by all who have feen this mountainous Ice, that there are Iflands furprifingly large ; and, if we confider the Size thefe lOands are of, when they arrive on the Banks of Newfoundland, after receiving a great Diminution both from the Air and the Walh of the Sea in a Paflage of fo many Leagues, it will greatly help our Belief as to the prodigious Size which fome of thelc IQands are of at their firft being afloat, or when they are met with in thefe Parts. Thefe Iflands are eafily avoided, as they move but flowly, their Height and Colour make them very difl.inguifli.eable, even in the dark Nights ; they are not fpread in the Sea like fmall Iflands, but often fingle without any other Ifland near them for Leagues, and if there are feveral Iflands in Sight at a Time, they are always at a Diftance from each other. The Noon of the fixthwas foggy, afterwards hazy, theWindN. and, as we paflfed near feveral large Iflands of Ice, they caufed a fenfible Chil- nefs •, at fix cloudy, the Wind N. N. W. and the Weather colder ♦, at nine a Fog, and at half an Hour after eleven a fmall Fall of Snow ; the Morn- '' ingof thefeventh was hazy until two, foggy at four, afterwards pleafant clear Sunfliiny Wea- ther, thougl) very cold , fo the whole Day ; and that Evening we looked out for Cape Refolution, Refolutlon was difcovered by Captain Davis the thirty-firfl: oijuly^ 1587, and the Eafl: End thereof Dtfcovery 6fa North-Weji Pajage, thereof named Cape Warwick^ or lVarwick.\ Foreland, in Honour of that noble Family who had fo greatly contributed to his Undertakings, as well as thofe of Sir Martin Forhijher -, and the next Day, falling in with the Southermoft Cape or Point of theStreights named it Cape Chidky.* fFarwick's Foreland was again feen by Captain George fVaymouth in 1602 \ the Headland rofe like an Ifland, and, when they came near the Foreland, they faw four fmall Iflands to North- ward, and three fmall Iflands to Southward of faid Foreland, The Foreland was high Land, all the Tops of the Hills covered with Snow the 28th of June; the three fmall Iflands to the Southward were alfo white, that they could not difcern them from Iflands of Ice ; alfo there was a great Store of drift Ice, on the Side of the Foreland^ but the Sea was altogether void of Ice; the Land did lie N . by E. and S. by W. fix Leagues in Length. And the twenty-ninth at fix o' Clock in the Morning, they were within three Leagues of the For eland y then the Wind came up at N. E. by E. a good ftifFGak with Fogj and they were forced to (land to the Southward, be- caufe they could not weather the Land to the Northward •, and, as they flood Southward aloncr by Warwick's Foreland,, they could difcern no otherwifebut that it was an Ifland, which, fays Captain Waymoutb, *' if it fall out to be fo, then *' Lumlfs Inlet (an Opening to the Northward of * Punhapt Pilgrim', Lib. 4. Chap. 18. D 2 «' RefoJution) t: 19 U ".*"I m f' fto . v! July. i i" 'A Pi 1 f" «c A VoY AGE/orthe *« Refolution) anJ tlie next Southerly Inlet (by « which he means the Entrance hti^ttx^Refolution « and Cape Chidley)sN\^^xt the greatCurrent fctteth « totheWeft, muftofnecc(ritybeoneSea,which " will be the greateft Hope of the Pafiage that « Way". From what hath preceded,wenn.iy con- clude, thatthofe two, Davis and IVaymouth, were the Luminaries that lighted Hudfon into his Streights, who probably gave theNameof i?^- folution •, for Sir thomr.^ Button, the next after him, makes ufe of fucii Name,' and, as a Name given by fome prior Adventurer, it is now appropriated to both the great and leffer IHes, they being ftiled the lOes of Refolution, and the Name of Warwick is almoft loft in that of Cape Refolution, as they both import the fame. Cape Warwick is rather to the N, E. than, as Captain Davis fays, to the E. according to Baffyne's Defcription, who, anchoring in a good Harbour on the Weft Side of Refolution, had an Oppor- tunity to defcribe it with more Exadnefs. An indifferent high Land to N. having one Hill or Summit to the N. E. but to the S. it falkth away very low. Not feeing Refolution in the Evening, we were gt],, in Expedaticn of making it early the nextMorn- ning •, at twelve hazy, at two a thick Fog, v/hen we met with large Riplings and the Sea fetting twenty Ways, a Confirmation of our being within two or three Leagues of the Streights -^ therefore brought too, as did CaptainM?or, to wait for clearer I Difcovery of a Nortb-Wejl Paffage, 2 1 clearer Weather to go in with : Our Ropes were h^y- now froze with Ice hanging on them, which was the firtt Time; the Weather not only cold, but difagreeably damp from the great Wetting of the Fog. Saw n. Flight of wild Geefc and fome Sea Pidgeons \ few Iflands of Ice paffed us in the Night, there was one large Ifland in Sight with fomething looming near, which we could not make a ri ght Difcernment of it, but fuppofed it a Sail. At five, all Hands were called, the Fog clear- ing fufticiently to fhew the fuppofed Sail to be a Parcel of Hummocks and fmall rounding Rocks, of a brown and yellowifh flakey Stone, with fome Spits or Inlets among the Rocks, which were full of Ice i the Fog hanging ftill on the high Land within, fo that we were prevented from a Sight of that. There was little Snow, fome in Spots or Ridges on the Side of the Hummocks. And upon , this Shore which was the main Ifland of Refolu- Hon (it being ftark calm with a ftrong Swell \) the Swell fat us very faft with little Profpefib of clearing it, though our Boats were hoifted out to tow, and all other Endeavours ufed to pre- vent •, with the Addition to our Misfortune of the Dohbs being feemingly nearer, fo in greater Danger than ourfelves : Had both Ships went Afliore, the mod the People might have expeded was to fave their Lives, and to little Purpofe. as they would have been almoft under an abfolute Certainty never to be taken off, in M At ■ M m •i ■ ^'^ t- .'.'1 'li-'^'. j2 A Voyage for the July. in want of all Subfiftance, nothing there to ercd a Tent with, no Place of Shelter to retire to, but muft remain expofed to the open Air, in fo uncertain and feverc a Climate. To be affured of being without Subfiftance and Refuge is not only the Cafe upon any Accident (fuch as the Ship's going Alhore, or ftriking upon the Rocks) happening at Refolution, but it will be the fame, if fuch Ac- cident happen in any Part oi Hudjon's Sticights, or in tlie Bay to the Northward : In which relpeft thefe Voyages are more dangerous than any other that are undertaken. Coming nearer the Land, we found a Tide which, affifted by a Breeze of Wind, fet us off equally as faft from the Shore, as we had been before fet on by the Calm and the Swell, and entered Hudfon's Streights about ten o' Clock, meeting only with fmall ftraggling Ice, though the Entrance, or between Refolution and the South Main, is often fill'd from Side to Side. The Streights to the Weftwavd of the Entrance are much broader than thcEntrance, and, as the Ice is fet forceably by the Currents from the broader Part into the narrow, by confequence it jams and fills fuch Narrow •, and this at all fuch Times as large Bodies of Ice come down : The Currents alfo as they come out of the Streights, and the ebb Tides, from being ftreightened by the narrownefs of the Entrance, run the more rapidly, and this Rapidity of the iiuc nuu ^ua^nUy i^(^-- and Wapiouth the firft Difcoverers took ibr a certain certain J of their The fomewl Refolut Cloud ; fome S termed Pieces faw the the Lai ing m( lar Rai . a large forM of the more Day ^ poppl a Tin near 1 Land did ni Tl Land and I S. E and bnov wasl W ired: a t muft :crtain being ily the going pening ch Ac- eights, lelpedb y other a Tide t us off id been ell, and • Clock, though le South ;. The mce are s the Ice ; broader it jams :h Times Currents d the ebb irrownefs dly, and )ok ibr a certain Difcovery of a North-Weji Pajage, 23 certain Sign of another Ocean near, and by reafon July. of their Rapidity called this Paffage a Gulf. • The Weather was hazy until twelve, then fomewhat clearer, and we faw the high Land of Refolution^ E. S. E. Ihewing like a dark thick Cloud ; in the Afternoon pleaiant Weather with fome Sun-ihine, met with fome failing Ice, lb ii termed becaufc a Ship can lail clearly between the i Pieces ot Ice without altering her Courle ; and i {aw the Loumings of the Land of both Shores, the Land fhe wing very high. The next Morn- 9th. ino- met with more Ice, when there was a regu- lar Rain that lafted fome Hours, and tack'd for '^' a large Body of Ice feen ahead, extending itfelf for Miles, and appearing juft above the Surface of the Water like a white Cruft or Rind ; faw more Ice alfo in other Parts of the Day : This Day very cold, and in the Evening having a poppling Sea, were aflured that we fliould be for a Time free from Ice, as the Water amonglV, or near Ice, is at all Times fmooth i faw alfo the Land of both Shores, had a Fog about fix, which did not continue, and a Fog- Bank North. The next Morning, July the tenth, faw j^.j^^ LandN. E. clear Sun-ihiny Weather, but cold and at twelve the Land from the N. W. to the S. E by S. the Land S. E. by S. a low Point, and the Northermoft Land high, with Spots of bnow iieing on it ; our Difcance from fuch Laud was fix Leagues. Captain Moor hoifted his En- fign £^ 24 July. I, vri p^ V OY AGZ for t, fign and fired feveral Guns as a Signal for Trade, the Wind being frefh and contrary. This Land feemingly of a brown flakey Stone, is very high but of a gradual Afcent, with the Top level, and is called Terra Nroea^ or Snow Land ; appears as Part of the Main, but fup- pofed an Ifland by Captain Fox and fome others. Having made little Way in the Night, with our Wind fmall and contrary, which continued, to the Morning, very pleafant Weather, when Captain Moor again repeated the Signal for Trade. In the Afternoon it fell ftark calm •, about two of the Clock we heard a Halloing from Shorewards, and with a Glafs faw three Canoes coming; afterwards faw more Canoes, to the Amount of twenty, thofe in the hindermoft Canoes feem- ing to labour extremely hard i they Halloed at Times, as they approached, which was anfwered from the Ships ; when nearer, they called out Chima •, this alfo is repeated by our People, and three Canoes which were forwarder than the reft made a Halt in a L-ine at about the Diftance of a Mufket-Shot; the Perfon in the middle Canoe, Elder than cither of thofe in the other two, tdkes his Paddle with both Hands and holds it over his Forehead parallel to the Horizon, crying Chima^ and lifting himfelf feveral Times from his Seat. the Perfon m theCanoe on the Right-hand fhewcd a Piece of Whalebone, repeating Chma^ and moved hisLeft-hand circularly upon his IcftBreaftj Chlma was anfwered from the Ship, and they ap- proach Difcovery of a North'-Weft Papge. 25 proach nearer, foon after the reft of the Canoes J"'/- came up. The People areof a brown Complexion j broad- faced) with black Eye-brows, and Hair which is very thick, cut regulary round the Forehead* and reaching to their Shoulders \ fome had it tied in Knots of each fide their Temples, fe- Vcral of the Elder ones had Whifkers, and one. a Ihort Beard t Their Eyes are fmall and brown* Nofe and Lips large, have very good Teeth, are tall, lufty rather than fat, ftreight-limb'd, their Hands and Feet fmall 5 cloathed all over, excepting Hands and Face, their Cloathing is Seal Skin, fome few have Deer-Skin •, they wear both the Seal and Deer-Skin with the Hair on, and dreffed fo as to be foft and pliable. They have a Ihort Frock which reaches below their Hips, with Flaps that hang down about eight Inches before and behind, Sleeves that come to the Wrifts, and iiHood or Capuchin which is of one Piece with the Frock, to put over the Head *, the Frock is with- out any Slit or Opening upon the Breaft or behind; there is a Border round the Face Part of the Ca- puchin ♦, there is alfo a Border at the Bottom of the Frock and at the Hands, which Borders are o( Pieces of the Skin of a lighter Colour than the reft of the Frock; the Frock alfo is made of Pieces, and in the putting them together they have Re- gard to the different Colours, fetting them off to the beft'Advantage, but when made up they appear as one Piece. They have open-kneed Breeches of £ the "" '*■ M ' ''11 I ' I'M A • 'I id ! I t V,' >,.«i ^'!1 i 'I , i z6 A V Y A G E for the J"b'' the fame Materials as the Frock, made with a broad Waiftband, and Borders round the Knees^ fewing in the Scams by which the Borders are joined, Ihort black Hairs doubled, making a black Streak; and fometimes two of thefe Streaks at about an Inch from each other ; they alfo do the fame in fewing on the Borders of the Frock; the Breeches have no Slit either before or behind, and there are Strings to the i|" Waiftband which draw it clofe round the Waift : They have Boots which reach the Knees, of Seal or Deer-Skin, the upper Part, but the Feet and Soals of Sea Horfe Hide. They have Sandals of Sealskin, or Sea-Horfe Hide; that hath had the Hair taken off and afterwards been dreffed in Oil. I'heir Shoes alfo are made of Seal-Skin but with the Hair on ; all wear Boots, Sandals and Shoes without Heels, and the Shoes as well as the '*^ Boots and Sandals are fewed together (having Strength and Neatnefs) with the Sinews of Deer dried, and they few their Cloaths with the fame; they put at Times Skins of Willocks or Partridges as a Sock within their Boots or Shoes, with the Feathers inward or next their Foot: Their Gloves are made of oiled Skin, with no Finger-Pieces, only a Thumb ; fome with high ^^ Tops reaching almoft to the Elbow, others with- out Tops not reaching the Wrift, thcfo trimmed I with a Slip of Fox, or (bme other Skin, They have alfo a, Piece of Cloathing which is made of ijlauUv.; o, luul uibliiii. clil vu>. auu jiiauvu, (.iicii every Piece joined to the other with a neat double Seam > V'fi V'l ■M L.>H M'A ,*'>! Difcovery of a Nortb-Wefi Vajjage. a; Seam, there is no Hood or Capuchin nor noj'^- Opening on the Breaft or behind, fo muft be put on over the Head, being fecured from tearing by a Border round the Neck, there arc Arms to it, but reaches only to the Waift, and behind is a Slip of Whalebone fewed, as I imagine to tie to the Rim of their Canoe fo it becomes one Piece with the Canoe, preventing in rough Weather all Water from getting in. Their Canoes (hap'd fomething like a Shuttle, are about eighteen Feet in Length, and near three Feet broad in the Middle, the Prow is wider than the Stern, but both as a Shuttle terminate in narrow Points : They are made of Ribs and Pieces which run fore and aft to hold fuch Ribs together ; the Ribs and Pieces are of Pine and knit together with Strips of Whalebone, and over the Whole is a Cover or Cafe of Skin which the Hair hath been cleared from and is well oiled, looking of the Colour of Parchment, ^nd fuch Cafe is fewed together with ftrong Seams, leaving only one Opening in the Middle of the upper Part of the Canoe for a Perfon to get in to fit, and when in he fills it; their Seat is not upon a rrofs Piece, but at the Bottom of the Canoe with a Skin ufually under them •, when feated, two Parts of the Body will be in the Canoe, and a Hoop or Rim, of about three Inches in Height round the Ooenine thev fit in. Reaches as high to them as the Pit of their Stomach. E 2 Thefe ^1 ■X >• V ft. , ^1 if I 1 I ■ M ''''1 »i I' '■' . ' r' it 28 July. :|i r I ii'' If A VoY AQ^Jor the Thefe Canoes they are dextrous in managing, and will paddle them at the rate of feven or eight Miles an Hour, looking when they paddle the fame way they are going : They ufe no Motion with their Bodies, but lean Backwards, keeping themfelves very fteady, and ? i ' move is their Arms and Shoulders, holding leir Paddle with both Hands, their Paddle being double bladed, or two Paddles the Gripes or Handles fewed together, and the Blades one at each Extreme which they dip alternately, firft, one on the one fide, then the other on the other : The Paddle is about eight Feet long, and tipped with Bone ; a fmall way juft above the Blades of both Paddles, they make two Knobs which not only gives a better Hold by prc-» venting the Hands from flipping, but hath a fur- ther Convenience, as the Water when they lifted the Paddle would otherwife run to their Hands, Cvery unpleafant at Times in fuch a Climate as this,) but by thefe Knobs it is formed into Drops and fo moftly runs oflf. As they paddle about the Ship, they call out Shoot Cock^ which implies, Wlalebone^ a fmall Quantity of this was traded for Hatchets, Saws, Files, Knives, and Needles, which alfo were prefented to them. The People of the Ship bar- tered their Knives and pieces of Iron Hoop for the Skin-Cloaths, the Indians being willing tu difpoie of any Thing which they can get an ex- change for in Iron, fo ufcful for fixing to the Ends Dijcovery of a North*WeJi Paffage, 29 Ends 6f their Darts ; and Harpoons and for many July., other Purpofcs, for which otherwife they only ufe Bone. i Whatfoever they barter for, as foon as they get it they lick it with their Tongue, and then fhout, which the other IndiaTis join in. If there are feveral Canoes alonglide the Ship, and one lying afide the other, all the Indians calling Out to Trade, and you want to Trade with the Indian in the furthermoft Canoe, the reft will imnnediately, as foon as they perceive it, give Way to let that Canoe come nearer. And as they carry moftly their Whalebone within fide their Canoes, and alfo the Cloaths which they have to difpofe of, or to put on in the room of thofe they may part with from their Backs (though they will fell all and go Home naked, if they can have a Market) but as to get thcfe, the In-* dian muft quit his Seat, kneel upon the Top of the Canoe, and take them out by the Hole he fat in, which he cannot do without another Canoe lying alongfide to fteady his, any one of the Indians will readily do this Office for him. One of them who was offered a Barter for his Breeches, took another Indian and Canoe with him fome Diftance to fteady his Canoe while he got his Breeches off, which adl of Decency was the more extraordinary as under their Breeches they wear Skins which pafs from their Hips 11 f \ t ' I .'<- el ki 3 ■ u .'•1 ■ I -i % '-U ^ 1>, <• H 1 *U 30 July. A Voyage for the up between their Thighs, and are fattened be- hind. There is on theOutfidc of their Canoes a Con- trivancc with a fmaU Piece of Whalebone to hold their Harpoon, or Filhing Tackle, and near be- fore the Opening they fit in, have two Strings acrofs to tuck any thing under, and there fome- times fhew a piece of Whalebone for Trade, fomc of them had on their Canoes behind them a Utenfil made of a Piece of Whalebone rounded, about three Inches high, and eight Inches m Breadth, having a Crofs of Wood at the Bottom, one End of which ftood out for a Handle, and on this lay Seals Flefti which they eat raw, others had it lying on the Canoe •, which tafte at Times, however difagreeable to us, is yet ufeful to them, for if they can eat Seal, there is fuch a Plenty of them in all thofe Parts, that they may depend upon Food be their Voyage ever fo long. One of the Indians had a Piece of Board formed as the Flap of a Jocky Cap, about four Inches in the broadeft Part, and eight Inches in Length or in that Part which he put to his Forehead, it being to affift his Sight upon his looking out, it was about an Inch thick, the Part next the Forehead, fo as not to cut the Forehead when tied on, and was paired gradually fo as to be thin ^^ ^1 *..,««J l7^rrA. TKic Vip nnf on to look out for three Boats of Women that were coming, Wh fome Canoes, in which there were young Lads. formed r Inches Length head, it ng out, lext the id when o be thin to look coming, re young Lads. Difcovery of a North-Weft Pdffagtf. % I Lads. Several c r the Canoes went from the Jily. Ships to meet them, and returned with them, as the Boats came near, the Women made a great Shouting and Jumping ♦, they are ftout made, much as the Men, only feem more upon a Cop- per Complexion, their Features Softer, Hair better. Eyes black, fome with their Hair tied* fome not : Their Cloaths the fame as the Men's, excepting that their Hoods are much larger, having alfo large Flaps before and behind i in their Hoods or Capuchins, they put their fmall Chil- dren as alfo in the Tops of their Boots which fome of them have, being very large and reaching quite up to their Hips, they fett the Tops out with Whalebone, and the Boots are made of Sea- Horfe Hide oyled. In each of the Boats ;thefe were from about thirty to forty Perfons, Women, Girls, and Lads, there feemed one Woman about the Age of fifty the others moftly thirty or under, and feveral Girls about twelve or fourteen, fome of the Women having fmall Children- They did not obferve that order in Trading as the Men, all being defirous both Women and Boys of any thing they faw offered for Bartering, Halloing and reaching out their Hands, which the Girls did not, but they fhouted with the reft when any Thing was bartered. The Women trade their Cloaths as the Men •, They had alfo Whale- T?;« . o«^ romp Fnv-Skins which they (hewed a long Time before they came to the Ship, fuch 1 '. »'s";Je<}l '. J .*] v] tpl''^^l -Ay July. A V oY ACE for fie Skins fcafonably killed, would be extraordinary Furrs : The Boys traded fmall Arrows, Models of Bows and of Canoes. Strings of Beads were given to the Women, one to each, which they were extreamely defirous of, when one expeded to have a String, and it was given to another, (he who was difappointed, would roll her Eyes, a Colour would immediately rife in her Face, and 0ie would eagerly lick her Lips: Whatfocver they got, they did as the Men, immediately licked it. :4 mi-. ■ Is hi V^" The Boats they came in were in Shape fteared to an eccentrick Oval, whofe largeft Diameter was about 20 Feet, whofe Ihorteft about 5, the Head rather (harper than the Stern, high fided, and rowed with two Sculls, much fuch as our Fifhermen ufe, fattened to th^ Boats GunneU with a Strip of Deer-Skin, the Boat is covered with oylcd Skin, fuch as covers the Canoes, with Bibs of Pine of about the Breadth of four Fin- gers, at a Foot Diftance the one from the other, and Rails Fore and Aft to confine the Ribs to which they are tied with Stripes of Whalebone, fo are the Pieces of Pine, which run afore and aft, and alfo thofe that run aofe tlie Bottom, and the Skin which covers the Boat leems to have no other Fattening than being fewed to the Rail, which is thcGunnellof the Boat. The Women row, one alfo fteers with an Oar, and r>^J.. tX-yt^Ar, *-UAfA l-ui the great Salvage IHe ; the other two the leffer Salmge IQes, and, one of thefe IHands lying within the Inlet much further than the reft, they are not all feen until you are abreaft of them. This Inlet opens to the Northward, and is fuppofed alfo to run on the Back of Terra Nivea, into Mijlah' Bay, gmd by Lumlefs Inkt to communicate with the Ocean, there proceed from it ftrong Currents which bringdown great Quantities of Ice at Times, and thefe encountering with the Ice and Currents down the Streights cauui **■ ' . *i .1 ' T 1 .1 I '•t t 1' '■'♦mI ■■■;S ■U, ' ■■• ir^ 38 A V o y A G E^r //;A-, P. if 6. i« ; Hi,' 1 1 V ' » * 1 t, * > 'J 1^. -I f " • f' 1' 1 ■■ti ■>.- h^ t i: 40 July. t6ih. AVoYAGtfortbe covered with large Spits of Snow, at about four Leagues Diftance, and the North Shore about nine Leagues, on which we alfo faw fome Snow lying i both Shores are very high, and confift of a brown barren Rock •, in the Land to the North- ward fevcral Inlets, and feveral Iflands off Shore, moft of which in Time have received Appella- tions, by the former Difcoverers more out of Complement to their Employers, than any Ufe that could be collefted from their being fo named, therefore thofc who have gone this Voyage after having negleded to apply thefe Names to the feveral Iflands. It is not now known to which of the Iflands the Names pro- perly belong. Capuin Mcer fired feveral Times in the Morning in Hopes of another Vifit from ihcEJkem 'x» Saw to-day a Number of Sea-Spi- ders, the Whales Food, too well known from the many Defcribcrs to need any Defcription here. Though we had from the fourteenth a^Noon, to the fixteenth, clear pleafant Weather) the Sea Calm, with light Breezes of Wind: it may not be to thefe Circumfl:ances that we muft in- tirely attribute ourCompafs, not Traverfing with- out fl:irring the Box with the Hand or a wooden Rod. At Noon of the fixteenth, it grew hazy and at one we began to pafs amongft Ice which feemed very rotten, the Snow looking of a grey Colour upon it -, continue pafi'ing Ice, which at fix grows much thicker, and meeting with a F' ^^e of Ice, which had Spots of Water within j.t, and the Water to be feen* beyond it we enter and m Difcovery of a North-Wefi PaJJ'age. 41 and pulh through : This Ice and that we faw all J"ly- the latter Part of the Afternoon, far exceeded in Dimenfions the ufual fleaked Ice before men- tioned, there being flat Pieces whofe Surface were not in Contents lefs than forty Acres, and to a Piece the Surface about fix Acres we grappled * at eight. Saw this Morning a Number of Seals, four or five together, aod this Day and Yefter- day more than at any Time before ; Cape Charles bearing South of us in the Evening, difl-ant five Leagues, which was firft named by Mr. Hudfotty Mount Charles, defcribed as Part of the Main, and is fo expreffed in all the old Charts, but in them called Cape Charles ; even called by Cap- tain Fox Prince Charles's Cape on the South Main \ now known ^o be Part of an Ifland which is named the Ifland of Charles, having a high bluff Rocky Land to the N. E. which is the Cape, or Cape Charles ; the Ifland running low tothe Wefl:ward. iV-'i To grapple we ftood, having but afmall Sail out, direaiy for the Midale of the Piece, and came to it as How and eafie as pollible, lowering our Topfail-Yardp : When we touched the Ice, the Lieutenant with two Hands immediately flepping trom ofF the Ship's Head upon the Ice ; one tiand with an Ice-Hoik, which is an Iron ihaped like an S. of about three Feet long, of good Strength, the Lieutenant with an Ax to chip a Hale in the Ice to fix one End of the Ice-Hook in, and the other Hand with a Rope which hath a Thimble, or bit oi Iron Ring at the End, to put over that turn of the Ice.Hook \vhich lies up; and ihe other End of the Rope is Aboard. This is done with all pofTble Agility to prevent the Trouble that might otherwi{e happen, by the Ship's Twinging ofF. When one Ice-Hook is lixe-:, they carry out another Ailcrn, and lome from the Mjdih--s, confineing the Ship to lie AloAgfide the Piece of Ice, lu v.iuetly and dofcjy as if at a Key-Side G The f •,' ' ■ ■J?' i^ft - ■■ ♦« 1 j«i/. w '^pS iii *>■ " ', B' .;^' L ))•" 17*^ A. V y A o E /^r /^^ Thp Piece of Ice we grappled to had a Pond upon it (as many Pieces hav?) the Water tho^ produced from the melted Snow, is extreme good and fit for all Ufcs. We took the Opportu- nity of fiUiJ^S fuch Water-Cafks a$ were empty, but not from any Neccffity that we were under for want of Water, or being any ways fhort of it. Thefc Ponds in Time, work through the Piece %q tljc Sea- Water, which you readily perceive upon tailing, by the Water l?eingBr^kilh, an4 is then upfit for Ufe, Thefe Ponds by thu* working through^ greatly contribute to the Dif- (olutiqn of^helce. Soon ^fter Qrappling, the Ice clofed round us for fome Leagues, which in the Morning was fome-what parted v in the Afternoon the Water made a great Rut, as though pafling through an Arch, being the Flood-Tide with a ftrong Wind which caufed the Ice to feparate more than it had done in the Morning, but the Wind being too fcant, and blowing too frelh for our making any Way : It was to no Purpqfe to un-. grapple. We were warm,er that Evening we grappled ^d the next Day, though furrounded by the Ice, than we had been at any Time fince the firft of July •, the Weather dark and hazy. From N. W. awav to S. the Horizon looked about feven \n the gvening of the feventeenth, extremely > at (extremely black, afterwards Thunder and Light- July* ning from that Quarter with fomd Rain, ^hoili eight that Part of the Horizon cleared fofntf^ What, appearing of a red fiery Colour, ind thtt Flafhes of Lightning feemed to be larger th^ before ; the Thunder died off by t^elV'e, butf the Lightning then at E. by S. continued ; \i alfo biowed hard with Rain. By three in th* Morning of the eighteenth, the Lightning was i8th< round toN. and N. E. Lightrtmg in both Points at one and the fame point of Time, th6 Flafhes long and greait : the Wind then fell littlcj aftd there came on a thick Wet Fog. Excepting atfewinands, at a (malt Diftaffce thd Sea was clear of Ice to the N. and W. The Ice which was nearer, though it furrounded the Ship^ was alfo much fepamtedi but from the Wind being W. by N. and little, afterwards a Calm, we could not prefs through the Ice that was neat to get into fuch clear Seaj driving with the lOand we were grappled to S. E. as did the Ice round us -, fceming to approach a large clofe Body of Ice, and to have another coming downh upon us. The Ifland we were fo fall too was thawed in manyPlaces, thePonds foaked through^ and before fix parted in three Pieces, fetting- the Ship loofe^ but Hie was hauled alongfidc the Bobbs^ our People firft taking in the Ice- Hooks* ■ l-.'iT i,t>' !. 'i-.i At Seven (Cape Qharks bearing S. W. by S^ piftant about five Leagues from our having G 2 drove k :■■ :■■ r,; I ■> ■f „ '4 ■ ■■4. ; It"" . ■■ t , ft ¥■■§1 II' 1 44 July. A y OY AQ'Rjor the drove confiderably with the Ice) we loofed with the Wind, at W. by S. and kept working to the Windward amongll Ice, with a N. W. Courfe until ten, when there was a fall of Sleet •, and it be- coming hazy Weather with a hard Gale of Wind at N. Both Captains agreed to Grapple ; be- fore Noon Snow and Kain, with quite a Storm of Wind at N. The Ship being to the Windward of the Ice, as was alfo the Dobbs, (and the Ice not fetting round with them as is ufual, and laying them to Leeward) they jogged much, beating their Sides againft the Ice : The Piece broke about two in the Afternoon, the Hooks held it together fome little Time-, afterwards, it came into fo many Pieces, that they were forced to caft the Ships off-, before the breaking of the Ice, manv Pieces drove down upon us, which were fet off with the Ice-Poles, one very large and heavy Piece, threatning to unlift or damage the Rudder. ♦ * From the Accident of the Ice breaking, might be feen the Service of the fmall Boats (which are from eleven to four- teen Feet in Length) earned by Ships which go into thele Streights ; they are convenient for carrying out Ropes, fetch- ing the Hooks off the Ice, and the People off the Ice, gone out f.0 get fuch Hooks, but prevented perhaps from returning by the Piece they were on parting and fwimming away ; the Size of the Boats making them PonabTe lo as they can be heighfted upon a Piece of Ice if another Piece is ck-iveing down upon it, or carried over a Piece when there is not Room for paffing between two Pieces, which other Boats from their Size ?TetooCumberfome for, and as they cannot be lifted about, arc liable ever" Minute to b* ftaved by fome of the Pieces of Ice, • which fwim dole and near each other when the Ice is hriV feparated, this Boat alfo at other Times hanging on the (Quarter is ready to lower at Sea, upin any Accident which makes it Neccitary (or to lower a Boat. CaptaiR Difcovery of a North-Weft P off age, 45 Captain Moor call off firft, drove juft clear J"'/- of us, and the fame Weather continuing made faft to another Piece, which not being fufficient to hold both Ships, we grappled to an Ifland at fmall Diftance, but the Dobbs driveing with the Ice to the Leeward, the California ahead, were two Miles diftant in the Morning i nor was it «9-h. poflible to caft off to get nearer each other, when they perceived their being fet with the Ice con- trary Ways : It becoming foon after the Ship's grappling a clofe Body of Ice, with only Imall Spots of Water here and there, for Leagues round, and farther than the Eye could carry from the Maft-head -, the fame on all Sides ; a melancholy Profped was it not known that in a few Hours the whole Scene might change. Such Circumftances as thofe we have laft related, lead Mr. Hudfon into Defpair, fearing he never Ihould get out of, but perilh amongft the Ice * " The Storm ceafing (fays Pricket who gives an " Account of Mr. Hudfon's Voyage) we flood " out of the Ice, where we faw any clear Sea to " go to, which was fometime more and fome- " times lefs. Our Courfe was as the Ice did ** lie, fometimes to the North, then to the " North- Weft, and then to the Weft, and to " the South- Weft, but ftill inclofed with Ice, " Which when our Matter faw, he made his " Courfe to the South, thinking to clear him. " felf of the Ice that Way, but the more he •V-'; .. * . J .,*i si;''i iKt U.-:\ Purcbafe\ Pilgrims, Lib. 3 Chap. 17. P. 598. <« ftrove, ' -I '. k U^ ?.J' ^.vji i 46 A V or AOEfor thi July. *« ftfovc, the worfe he was, and the moref !ri- ** dofed, until he could go no further. Here *• our Mafter was in Dcfpair, and (as he tdd this ♦• Pricket alter) he thought he never /hould have " got out of the Ice but there have pcrilhcd.** The I (lands of Ice which we faw for thefc fe- verai Days paft, as to Colour, they were of a light Blue, moftly covered with a thick Snow< fwimming a fmall height above the Water, and upon their Surface there were Pieces of Ice of a thoufand various forms ; and when thefc Iflands (which feparated, were moftly large, few of them lefs than three Acres) came to clofe and join, thefc different Forms of the kc on the Sur- face, and which you would fee for Leagues toge- ther, made a very ronr-antick Appearance. Thtf Weather though dry altered to be very Cold, the Wind which leffened in the Night, now the next Morning, July tlie 19th abor fix, blowed hard at N. and the Sea which over-night was (b thick with Ice as nothing elfe could be feen : By eight this Morning was fo cleared by the Tide and Current that we could get on our Way, and tvithout Difficulty run Down to Captain Moor^ ■who alfo got on his Way. From eight it fet on Rainingi continuing moft of the Day, and until twelve at Night, with hazy Weather, the Wind lefs. In the afternoon we faw a Part of the South Main through the Haze, with Snow upon it, Vt-TV Hiorh Killv Rrjrl^Q tK" C/N„^Uoj.r«i-.n. P/.***- W. by S. with a Ledge of Ice lying before it, and Difcomery of a North-Weft Paffage, 47 And Cape Charles N. W. by W. k W. five or fix July. Leagues. Therefore reckoned that while amongft the Ice, the Ship had been fet about five Leagues to S. E. We proceeded all Night, and until the Noon of the next Day which was much as jo h. the Night before, cold, rainy, dirty Weather, frequently feeing Ice, but keeping clear from any Body of it. But in the Afternoon then lefs Hain and ha?y with little Wind, paflfcd amongft Ice, and at fi?rin the Evening upon Captain Moor's Signal grappled j Captain Moor giving for a Rea- fon that the Wind was fcanting and a light Fog was come on, The Ice was pretty clofe about us all the Night until the Morning of the 21ft, and freih Windatz'ft. N. but the Weather clear and hazy alternately. At fix in the Morning of the 21 ft. Cape a^rlei bearing S. five Leagues, we had got no Ground fince the fixteenth in the Evening, Cape Charles then bearing the fame •, dofe hazy Weather the reft of the Day, and the Haze thick upon the the Shore until five in the Afternoon, when it cleared 5 and then we were within two Leagues of fuch Cape, having drove with the Ifland wc were faft toQ, three Leagues fince fa jhat Morning. At ten in the Evening we ungrappled from the Ice, were foon in a clear Sea, clear Weather that Night and the Morning of the twenty-fecond sgi. untill tcnj^ then foggy with a ^ark hazy After- Nqqiv ■ M ' in . 4i ' '.V, -m M: ' ' I l' ' ■ ', r ^ 48 July. ajd. A Voyage for the Noon, cold, but a plcafant Gale of Wind, at E. S. E. pairing much Ice at the Tinne, and run during the whole Afternoon by a prodigious Body of flat level Ice, to Southward, which was con- tinual without Break, and feemed to ftretch quite to the Shore, fuch as the Dutch call a Wall of I ce. In the Evening of the twenty-fecond, the Ice we pad amongft fwam much clofcr, or the Pieces nearer each other, then what we had before met with in the Day, and two Pieces which we pafled between, immediately after joined, and hindered the Dobbs from paffing •, upon which we ftood towards her, then having an Opening j but there being a thick Fog, and the Ice coming down very faft, it was thought moft advifeable to grapple ; the Fog cleared about ten, hazy from that Time to four, when the Ice furrounded us on all Sidca. Clear Weather until feven, when the Ice was fet away by the Currents, as the Day before; with little Wind at S. S. E. At eight that Morning July the 2 3d, the Ifland of Salijhury bore N. diftant feven Leagues, high and rocky like the North and South Shore of the Streights, of an Oblong form lying in Latitude 63. 30. and Longitude 73. W. firft difcovered by Mr. Hudfon, who fays in his Account, " * The ** fecond Day of Auguft we had Sight of a fair * furchaj\\Pil, Lil?. 5. Ch?p. 17. P. 597. *« Head- hifco'Oery of a Nortb-Weji Ptijage, 49 " Head-Land on the Northern Shoic, fix J"V- " Leagues off, which I called Salipurfs Fore* *' land:'* After the Rt. Hon. and not to be forgotten (asCapt.F(?x exprefles himfelf ) R oBER-r Cecill, Earl of Salijhury (in the Year 1610) Lord High Treafurer of England. Pricket in his Account of Hudfon's Voyage fays, " To the " North and beyond this, that is, Cape Charles^ " lies an IQand, that to the Eaft hath a fair Head^ and beyond it to the Weft other broken Land^ which maketh a Bay within, and a good Road may be found there for Ships j our Matter named the firft Cape Salijbury:' Captain Fox^ who was within four Miles, fays it is high Land but not clifted. It is now difcovered there are two Iflands, the one fmall to the South-Eaft- ward of the other, which is termed Cape Salifiury^ and the larger IQand is the Idand of Salijbury ; there is alfo another fmall Ifland to the North- ward of 5^///Z'«ry Ifland. We were a^ no Time nearer than feven Leagues. C( (C <( (C , / 1 I* f •;.■ lA Ungrappling at eleven, the Ice was fo parted that with the Affiflance of the Wind right aft, <./e Gould force through: Enjoying fine Weather with Sunfliine, alfo warm. At four could pals the Ice without almoit altering the Helm ; but having a great Wall of Ice on the Weather-Bow. It was obfervable of thefe fmall Iflands we paflied amongft, that they were not fet by the Current any Way, but remained in one Place 5 the Water — ^„«ii „3 in a i.Txiu-ircui) only auw axiu lucu H • 1 }S'l m H 2 Three 52 ■' 1 ■ » ]«ir- j"' m •h ' I »• "i ^' '.f "5' ' asth. til t A VoYAG £ for the Three of the Ship's Company tempted by the Weather, (which continued warm and plealant with Sun- fliine) walked over the Ice in the After- noon to the Dobbs, then at the fame Diftance &i at Noon, more than a Mile oflf, not meeting with above three Openings or Splittings in the Ice, neither of which were above a Foot broad. But they had not been Aboard the Dobh half an Hour before the Ice was opened by the Tide, forming an infinite Number of Iflands, and fo wide a Channel between the two Ships, in the very Part juft before walked over, that the Dobh failed down to join the California: Which Relation is made folely with an Intent to precaution others. In the Night, 7«/jythe 2£th, a large Piece of Ice drove alongfide Captain Moor, fix Fathom and a half in Depth, with a Tong. What is called a Tong is a fharp-pointed Piece, which projects from the other Parts, is very hard, and ufually appears of a light Blue, (which long ran under his Ship, and by lifting her, brought her almofl; on her Careen, or almolV laid her abroad- fide.) It is from thefe Tongs, (which from their being under Water are more concealed, and from their Hardncfs if touched., are capable of pierce- ing a Ship under her Bends, fo foundering her) that proceeds the greatelt Danger amongft the Ire T^iPv fVinnld hp rrjrpfn|lv lnnk-*i1 for. and a£ all 1 imes avoided. ml Difcovery of a Nortlj^WeJi Pajage, 53 July. The Morning of the 26th, we were inclofed 25th. in Ice ; it was cloudy, the Sun feldom fhewing itfelf, with little Wind at N. N. W. the Weather only chill •, at Noon had a fmall Shower of Rain ; in the Afternoon about two, fome Thunder and Lightning, when we were ungrappled, tra- verfing the Ice which was cleared from the Head of the Ship with Handfpikes •, at five grappled again, but to two different Pieces through Ne- cefTity ; which caufed us to be feparated in the Morning of the twenty-feventh, about half a League, The Ice inclofing us on all Sides with- out the leaft Water to be feen, and one of the largeft Pieces of Ice feen fince Entering the Streights, being as high as our Deck, fat clofe upon our Bow, not without putting us under fome Apprehenfions, for fear the Piece would overfet, or break, and fo do the Ship a Damage. The Evep'ng was pleafant, but the Night cloudy with a frelh Gale at W. S, W. and from eleven to twelve Rain. The Morning of the 27th was cloudy, fo till 27th. Noon i had heighfted fome Sail to prefs the Ship forward in the Ice, which was fo clofe that it was to little Purpofe. And in the Afternoon the People were imploy*d, in wrenching the Pieces of Ice afunder with Handfpikes, which ftuck with their Ends jambed the one under another, they ikli T — ...:^u rj- urcuKuig utt uiiu luc ruxttia \ji uic icc wilu iiiit- chets, and going out with Warps ahead to tow. '.♦I - f> 1 .*r!^ 'M .el P.* 'if ■h{ \r' ' i "■f ',1 tii' 1 i 54 ^Voyage /7r tBe^ WY' all with If fs Succefs than their Labour feemcd to deferve ; the Ice clofing very faft, and obliging us to grapple again at nine. What added to their Difficulties, it rained hard, all the Time, and fell very cold, which Weather continued un- aS.:h. til twelve^ the Wind varying from W. S. W. ':o S. W. by S. and W. about one N. W. then a Fog, and the Ice feparating fo much that both Ships drove a-pace to Eaftward, with the Iflands they were fattened to, and Captain Moor by two was within half a Mile of us, firing a Gun» a Signal in the Fog, to know where we were ; the Signal was anfwered, and the Doifh foon after feen, as the Fog cleared a little, which it continued to do and thicken until four, then cleared intirely. But, the Wind being contrary ftill N. W. a frefh, Gale, could nor ungrapplc. Until eight very cold Weather^ fuch ;is we had not felt i between eight and twelve fome what warmer and dry. Between four and fix in the Morning the Ice had inclofed us again, but at two in the after- noon opened, fo that we caft off and prefled through it. Wind about W. Captain Moor al- fo got under Way and, mak-ng an Angle with, our Courfe, met us ; the Ice grew more and more open until fix, when we got into a clear Sea, Cape Charles, S. eight or nine Leagues. In the Afternoon had fome Sun-fiiine, but at five Rain and Wind, at W. S. W. and fqually at fix. At eight Rain, fo again at ten, and hazy with Rain at Times until twelve, the Ship keep- ing iDifcovery of a North-Weft Paffage. j;| ing under Sail, fometimes amongft failing Ice, July, and tacking, to avoid the large Bodies of Ice. The Haze, with Rain at Times, continued till five, the Morning of the 29th, then clearer zgthi Weather, but a wet Fog at fix, which continued for a fmall Time. The Morning was cloudy and dark until eleven, then fome Sun, the Wind round to N. W. the Sun (hot in foon after twelve, and, before two, the Wind W. by S. the Fog came on, and was repeatedly on and oflf until four, very cold. Then cloudy Weather until eight, afterwards Hail with Rairij until twelve. Wind N. N; W. moft Part oi this Day and Night, the 29th oi July, were m a clear Sea j tacking, when near a Body of Ice. Such Weather^ as was in the Evening and Night of the twenty-ninth, continued to the Noon of the thirtieth, with the Addition of the Wind 3otK. blowing frcfher, at N. W. and of the Rain, about fix in the Morning, coming in hard Squalls. The Noon was fair with Sun-ihine, but coldj feeing Salijbury bearing N. N. E. the fame Weather lafted until eight, then cloudyj the Wind falling, it became almoft calm at ten; hazy and cloudy, from that time to eight in thg Morning, 7«/y the 31ft, with light Winds, atjill. S. S. v» . when the Sun broke out, but was foon after veiled with a wet Fog, which continued un- til fix in the Evening -, then clearer Weather. - • p law the ijland or ouiiJc/Ury, and, at the fame Time, the Ifiand of Nottingham, the Weft End of fV '»■.. 1,' s » •''1 ■ ' * i /•' I)} >.'\ I: ii t ^^ 1 W t . :i: ', * ' >l' ■ ( • t I ■■f • ■ rT 56 -^VoVACfe for the July. oi Nottingham, in Sight N. W. \ W.* theEali End N. E. diftant each Point about four Leagues ; and on Soundinghad 6^ Fathom, lights coloured owfy Ground. This Ifland was fo na- med, according to Captain Fox, by Mr. Hudfon, after the Honourable Lord Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham, m 1610, Lord High Admiral of England. The Ifland to the Weftward appeared low and flat -, from which there is a gradual Rife until it becomes high-, this Height continues near two Thirds of the Length of the Ifland, and then . from Gich a Height there is a Defcent to the Eaft Part of the Ifland, which Eafl: Part is not fo low as what the Wefl: part isj the Lat. is 63**. 21". Long 77°. 40'. W. » Upon the North- Wefl: Side of Nottingham Ifland, there are two or three fmall Iflands, which lie off from the greater, which make very good Harbours about this Ifle •, as Mr. Bylot experienced, having fo much foul Weather, and many Storms, from the 19th to the 26th of July, that he fl:aid there. There are alfo many fmall lone Ifles to the S. Point of the Ifland •, without which, Mr. Baffyne Mtxvts, in the Account of Mr. Bylot^s Expedition, there would have been a fit Place to have anchored, to have found out the true Set of the Tide : but the Mafl:er, Mr. Bylot, who had been in the three Expeditions which preceded, ijiz. in Hud- fon*s. Sir. ^'homas Button's, and Gibhn^s, be- ing defirous to come to the fame Place, where ^PuKhafe'iPil, Lib. Hi. Chap. 17 P 597. he hi * \ Difcovery of a North-Weft Pqffage, 5^ he bad rode before, in the Expedition of Sir July. Thomas Button^ ftood along by this Ifle to the Weftward, and came to an Anchor in the Eddy of thefe broken Grounds, where the Ship rode at no Certainty of the Tide ; and on the twenty- feventh in the Morning, it being foul Weather, the Anchor would not hold in eight Fathom ; but they were drove into deeper Water, and forced to fet Sail. The Weather continued clear until twelve at Auguft. Night of the 31ft, then little Wind at S. and a ^^t. Fog, which Fog wetted extremely, lafted un- til four, and then fmall Rain, and very cold. Hazy until after five, the Wind W. having been at two, W. by N. at four W. by S. then clearer until ten, when again foggy, but the Sun fome- times appearing through it ; at twelve the Fog thick and very wet, continuing fo until two, the Wind N. W. by W. then clearing we faw Not- tingham^ the Middle N. E. the W. End N. by E. the E. End E. by N. within lefs than four Leagues, not having, on the Weftern Side at Icaft, fo barren a Look as T'erra Nivea^ or Re- folutioHy feeming to have feveral grafiy Spots, with but little Snow lying on it ; it confifts of Chains or Ridges of Hills, one within another, and Ihews to be broad, the Middle of the Ifland projecting much forwarder, and fo more to the Southward than the Extremes ; which explains what Mr. Baffyne means by the South Point of this Ifland mentioned before. ■ '■■? ' » I.* I' ■ • ■■'! •> < '1 .i' I The ' I l".-i '' , •*• ^:^ <'4 b rl ^8 \A Voyage for the Auguft. The clear Weather continuing, faw Diggs*s inand, as alfo the South Shore, firft difcovered by Mr. Hudfon -, and the Illand named by him after Sir Dudley Diggs, who, as well as his Fa- ther, had been a great Promoter of thefe Difco- veries ; upon this Ifland the EJkemaux were firft met with, when the Mutineers, who had ex- pofed: Mr. Hudfon, returned hither with the Ship, » " The Boat then went to Diggs\Q^.^t, (fays Mr. Pricket in his Account of Hudfon' % *« Voyage) diredtiy for the Place where the Fowl " breed (Willocks) where they faw feven Boats *' come about the Eaftern Point towards them -, but, when the Salvages faw their Boat, they drew their lelfer Boats into their bigger, which when they had done, they came rowing to their Boat, and made Signs to the reft. Our Men made ready for all ElTays •, the Salvages came to them, and they grow familiar one with ano- ** ther, fo that ours took one of theirs into their Boat, and they took one of ours into theirs •, then they carried our Men to a Cove where their Tents ftood, to the Weftward of the Place, where the Fov. i breed 5 fo they carried ** our Man into their Tents, where he remained *' until our Men returned theirs; in our Boat " went their Man to the Place where the Fowl *^ breed; and, we being dcfirous to know how *' the .Salvages killed their Fowl, he (hewed « Pricket' i Account of Hudfgn'3 Voyage, North- Weft, Fox, p. iio« « them (C C( «( cc cc «c ec <( cc (( C( K*i? 'm es came (i (( (( t( n it, << «( (C (( 4( (C (( Difcovery of a North-Weji Pajfage, 59 them the Manner how, which was thus : They Auguft, take a long Pole with a Snare at the End,* which they put about the Fowl's Neck, and fo pluck them down ; v/hen our Men knew that we had a better Way, and fo fhewed the the Salvages the Ufe of our Pieces, which at one Shoot would kill itVQW or eight. To be Ihcrt, they returned to the Cove to receive our Man, and to deliver theirs. When they came, they made great Joy with Dancing, Leaping, and Striking their Breafts •, they offered divers Things to our Men, but they . only took fome Moors Teeth, which they gave them for a Knife and two Glafs Buttons*, fo receiving our Man, they came Aboard, rejoicing at this Chance, as if they had met with the moft fimple People of the World. " Henry Greene^ more than the reft (who was the Principal in the eypofing. Mr. Hudfon was fo confident that we fliould by no Means take Care to ftand upon our Guard (God blinded him fo) that, where he thought to re- ceive great Matters from this People, he re- ceived more than he looked for •, and that fuddenly, by being made an Example for all *■ Men that make no Confcience of doing Evil ; " and that we take Heed how we truft the Sal- *' vage People, how fimple foever they fcem " to be. It (( (( (( (( cc 4 ■ * kk • I,'' ,» ,.. '^^ 't .**l Pi} «( " They madeHafte to be on Shore, and, be- caufe the Ship rode far off, they weighed, I 2 and '<•*■ ■;t! I ■ MX 60 ^Voyage for the Augull. « and flood as near to the Place where the Fowl breed as they could : and, becaufe he (this Writer) was lame he was to go into the Boat to carry rue!; Things as he had in the Cabbin, of every Thing ibmewhat ; and fo, with more hafte than good fpeed, away he went •, as did Henry Greene^ William Wiljon^ John Thomas^ Michael Tierce^ 2LndJnihc'. 7'^otter^ when they " came near the Shore, the People were on the " Hills dancing and leaping *, to the Cove we *' came, where they had drawn up their Boats. *' We brought our Boat to the Eafl Side of the Cove clofe to the Rocks j on Land they go, and make fafl the Boat to a great Stone on the Shore -, the People came, and every one had fomething in his Hand to barter -, but Henry Greene {\7ort that they Ihould have nothing until he had Venifon, for that they had fo promifed him by Signs the laft Day. ** Now, when we came, they made Signs to their Dogs, whereof there were many like Mongrels, as big as Hounds, and pointed to the Mountains, and to the Sun, clapping their their Hands. Then Henry Greene^ John Tho- mas, and JVilliam Wilfon (which two we may confider next after Greene in the Affair of Mr. Hudfon) ftood hard by the Boat's Head ; Michael Pierce and Andrew Motter (who were alfo in the Confpiracy, but under the Dircdion of the others') were p-ot unon fhe Rork«; cr:i- thering of Sorrel j not one of them had any " Weapon C( ire6tion (( irk <; crx- D- ;; (C Difcovery of a North-Weft Paffage. 6i Weapon about him, not (b much as a Stick Auguft. fave Henry Greene only, who had a Piece of a Pike in his Hand, nor faw he any Thing they had to Ihoot him with . Henry Greene and JVilJon had Looking GlalTes, Jews- Trumps, and Bells, which they were fhew- ing 5 tl ' Salvages Handing round about them, one of them came into the Boat's Head to fhew Pricket a Bottle \ this Writer {Pricket) made Signs unto him o get him Afliore, but he made as though he had not undcrftood him : Whereupon he flood up, and pointed at him on.*) hor^ In the- mean Time another ftole be- hind to the Stern of the Boat -, and, when he faw him Afhore that was on the Boat's- Head, he fat down again, but fuddenly he faw the Legs and Feet of a Man by him, where- fore he cafl up his Head and faw the Salvage, with his Knife in his Hand, who ftruck at his Breaftover his Head-, he calling up his Arm to fave his Bread, the Salvage wounded his Arm, and ftruck him into the Body, under the right Pap -, the Salvage ftruck a fecond Blow, which he met with his left Hand, and then ftruck him into the Thigh, and had like to have cut off the little Finger of his left ' Hand. Now this Writer had got hold of the String of the Knife, and had wound it about his left Hand, he ftrivingwith both his Hands to make an End of that he had begun, found the Salvage but weak in the Gripe, and (God enabling him; getting hold of the Sleeve of his 'V' fl w- : it t t-l i'^^- i -v. i" •••''I (( left h\: i I-. ■ ^- a m ^2 ^Voyage /or the Auguft. «« left Arm, he faw his left Side lay open to him •, «* which when he faw, he put the Sleeve of his left Arm into his kft Hand, holding the String « of the Knife faft in the fame Hand, and, ha- ving got his right Hand at Liberty, he fought *' for foinewhat, wherewith to ftrike him, not re- membering his Dagger at his Side •, but, look- « ing down he faw it, and therewith ftruck the Salvage into the Body and Throat. Whilft he was thus aflfauked in the Boat, their Men were fet upon on the Shore •, John « South. This Ifland hath a very fair Head to «' the Eaft, and which our Mafter named " Diggs*s Cape, the Land on the South Side, " now falling away to the South, makes another <« Cape or Head-land, which our Mafter named ** JVolftenholmeCa,]^c,'* AndinthisStreight(now called Bond^s Inlet) at the Mouth with a 1 00 Fathom of Line out. Hud/on found no Ground. t Sir John fFolftenhoIme, after whom Mr. Hud- fon named the Cape, is mentioned by Captain Fox to have been for eight Voyages, the prin- cipal Adventurer in the Stock (and Trcafurer) fupplying the Stock Adventure, when the Stock came (lowly in •, and, if he had been wanting itji this Afliftance, moft of thofe Difcoveries would never have been attempted. The Boat went Afliore, fays Mr. Pricket^ " to *' this Ifland Cape, oxBiggs^^ Ifland -, but to it " we came on the North Side, and up we got *' from one Rock to another, until we came unto ** the higheft of that Part, here we found fome *' plain Ground and faw fome Deer ; at firft " four or five, and after a dozen or fixteen in a " Herd, but could not come nigh them withii^ '' Mufket-Shot. » PunhaJe'iPil. Lib. iii. Chap. 17. P. 6co, ^ North-Weft Fox. P. 226. I '.i > w -1 * «l m ^. K cc Thus J ■:■!■ 66 ^A Voyage for the Augqft. C( * .''-.I" il '1 Thus going from one Place to another, we faw to the Weft of us a high Hill above all the reft, it being nigh us, but it proved further off than we made Account; for when we came to it, the Land was fo fteep oxi the Eaft and North-Eaft Parts that we cquld not get unto it. To the South- Weft we faw that we might, and towards that Part we went along by the Side of a great Pond of Water which lieth under the Eaft Side of this Hill, and there runneth out of it a Stream of Water, as" much as would drive an overftiot Mill, which falleth down from a high Cliff into the Sea on the South Side. In this Place great Store of Fowl breed, and there is the beft Grafs I had feen fmce we came from England, ^ Here we found Sorrel, and that which we call Scurvy-Grafs, in great Abundance. Faffing along we faw feme round Hills of Stone like Grafs-Cocks, which at the firft ttook to be the Work of fome Chriftian ; we paffed by them until we came to the South Side of the Hill, then went unto them, and there found more-, and, being nigh them, I turned off the uppermoft Stone, and found it hollow « Purtha/e's PH. Lib. iii, P. 1 60 b Preferable to what they had fcen at the Orineys, Fair- Mand, or Iceland, all which Places they toachi.'d at, and landed no where in the Streights but upon one of the Ifles of fefli's Merci, which Mr. HufTfin lo named. That is defcribcd as barren Land, having nothing thereon but Water- PlaOie?^ and torn Kocks, as though it had been fubjcft to Earth- ^wikei. «« withiq <( (( (( «c <( 4C c( «t tc «c <* ft i'^ :a nothcr, [ abov« proved >r when » oji the uld not faw that 'e went ■ Water lis Hill, Water, >t Mill, into the :e grea^ :he beft igland, ^ \ we call Faffing one like 3k to be afled by e of the e found rned off hollow le^js, Fair- ] at, and ;he Ifles of i defcribed ;er-Plaflies, to Earth- * withir? «c <( cc Dijcovery of a Ncrih-Weft Pajfage, 5/ within, and full of Fowl hanged by their Auguft. Necks. Our Matter (in the mean time) came in between the two Lands, and Ihot off fome Pieces to call us Aboard, for it was aFog> we came Aboard and told him what we had feen, aid perfuaded him to ftay a Day o^ two in the Place; telling him what Refrelhing might there be had, but by no Means would he ftay, who was not pleafed with the Motion.' *j Vtom the Name of Diggs given by Hudfon to a Cape, Diggs is now become the Name of a Parcel of Iflands which lie near both to Weft- ward and Southward of fuch Ifland to which be- longs the Cape, and which Iflands were formerly called Hackluyt*& Iflands, but they are all com- prehended und.^r the Name of Diggs*s Iflands, which, as well as the Cape, Mr. Hudfon in paffing Southward left Weft of him* The La- titude of the Cape is 62. 42. Longitude 71. 45* The Willocks which are here in great Quan- tities, and feen continually up theStreights, are dif- ficult to kill with fmall Shot except on the Head; and Shooting them is a conftant Diverfion in fine Weather, but for Diverfion only, for they are ieldom or ever eat even by the Seamen ; if you Ihoot one of thefe the others will fwim by it, in-* fcnfible of their own Danger, and of what ha^th happened to the other, giving you Opportunity to repeat your Fire. K a t)iggs'% m ' 1?; K.'.' 'I * > ... * *■ ; ■ I i. •* -I t' wo- 1 Hf ',"■'', ■ s :'■•" i ^ ,:"' .. ■ r -■ '■ v -.'' "■ (I . ' ■ •y ::'K fi' ■ ■: i • 1 *■:•■■ V ■:':■ ... ,,, ' ':^.- I ■■' 'Ira^i-- 68 '-^f V OY AG E for the Auguft. I>iggs^^ Ides are the Termination of Hudfon's Streights to the South-Weft ward, and, as Hud- fen* s Str eights is a Part of great Account in the Voyage, it may not be improper to attempt to give the Reader a further Idea of thefe Streights than can be colle<5ted from what hath been already faid. It is a Channel of unequal Breadths, both whofe Shores are bounded by high, ragged, mountainous Rocks, having Snow almoft at all Times lying on them, and no Wood, Grafs, or Earth to be feen on the Parts next the Water. In fom.e Hollows or Vallyes within Landj there is a ihallow Soil, producing Scurvy-Grafs, Sor- rel and other fmall Herbs with Grafs, and Mofs, but no Wood, Underwood, or any kind of Shrub i and in fuch Valleys or Hollows, there are generally Ponds which are formed from the Waters of the melted Snow. '^ Captain Fox calls both Shores the Irremarkable Land : '* I was (fays he) in Latitude 6i^. 57". and ftood in clofe to this Irremarkable Shore, and fo all the " Land within the Streight may be called, for * * it is all llioaring or defcending from the highelt *' Mountains to the Sea. '* At both Ends of thefe Streights are Iflands, a.- thole of Refolutlon and Button's to the Hart ward. To the "WdH'dvd Snlffiitry :\iM\Nottinghmn^ and more Wcfterly than thofe is Di^gs\ file. There arc many Iflai.ds along both Shores, from one <( C( ■ ■i^'' •V ^BIir-<- i ■■■1; , :• aNoiili-Wtri, fr-A P. 189. F.nJ f^I ftU>llf^ K % :H" '■i'y;: I /v X k'h •\\^-- •/•. ■ <.-... M' I S ') ■'•^'»//yw\ Xl&tinryJ' •i>U'^.9 •''-' i*'". A • »■• //^ C IJ ,^ Ji T of '^^ ~ iHUDS O^'S STR AIT a II il "^ ^-_B A Y, — > Aitor^hich is thought to communicate with Baffym\ Bay • I ■-^ ■I , * , .... » ■;** "a ^■^rvi>•l ,y, ,f\ ■i:--\ ' *i ..*'...■• >■ •'■;f/i ,. ..if r': 'a L^-: ' -T •• ■I I <'«' 70 Attguft. .l-> t' 't,^ AVa ^ AG'S, for the Bay to the North. The Ifle on the South- Ea(t is faid to be feparated from that on the South- Weft by White Bear Bay, which is thought to run into Cumberland Bay. The Ifle on the North- Weft is then namQd Cum berland J[/lan J i that on the South-Eaft the Ifland of Good For- tune i that on the South-Weft, James's Ifland. The South Shore which was named New- Britain by Mr. Hudfon, but is now moftly known by the Name of the Labrador Shore, and Terra CorterealiSy hath feveral Inlets along the Coaft, the principal of which are defcribed to be in a deep Bay, which is on the South Shore imme- diately after entering the Streights j by which Inlets, it hath always been imagined, there is a nearer Communication with Hudfon*s Bay than by Hudfon*s Streights •, and what adds more Proba- bility than there formerly was to this, is a new difcovered Sea on the Weftern Side of tliisX^^r^f (dor Shore, which is open to Hudfon\ Bay. But fuppofe there was a Communication found between this Bay, which is to the Southward, im- mediately after entering Hudfon\ Streights, and lludJorCs Bay •, and fo a much nearer Cut than by H«4/*^»'s Streights i yet it is probable from the great Quantity of Ice which fettles down in this Bay to the Southward, that a Paffage that Way would be both more hazardous, and dilatory, than by the Way of H«^/o»*s Streights. From their Situation it is alfo fuppofed, that there may be a Communicaclon between that Inlet in Lat. s^. whicd Dlfcoven of a Nortb-Wejl Paffage. 7, which is to the Eaftward of this Shore from the A.^mi. Mantick Ocean, and was difcovered by Captain Davts in the Year ,586 (which he failed ten Leagues up two Leagues brtjad, very fair Woods on both Sides) and this new difcovered Sea to the Weftward of this Shore opening toHudf, '■I (I r -r Ik * J*. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) V. &^ vf . ^o '^p ■'^- A. ^^ PhotDgrapbJc Sciences Coiporalion w 2: v;est main street webster, n.y. 14$&0 (7?6) e72-45Q3 ■"^WW 55S s.i 'iM i':j 'A YoY ACt for tbe their Pier was built, an old Man anfwercd, JMarrye at my good Lord Lumley*s, whoft Soul was in Heaven^ before his Bones were cold. This Inlet communicating with the Sea on the Weftcrn Part of Refolutiony which is now called Mftake Bay, is fuppofed to have a Branch of it which runs at the Back of the Terra Nivea, and comes into the Streights by the North Bay. From Refolution toBiggshl^t^ the computed Diftanccisone hundred and forty Leagues -, from Refolution to the upper Salvage Iflcs fixtyLeagues, from the \x^i^tx Salvages to Cd:^cCharles fixty more, and from Cai^Cbarles toZ)/^ f i*s-Ifles 20 Leagues ; the Streight lies W. N. W. and E, S. E. at its firft Entrance is the grcateft Breadth, by Reafon of a great Bay to the Southward 1 then it narrows from the upper Salvages to Cape Charles y the Width be- tween the twoShores not exceeding fifteenLeagues. At Cape C/^ar/M the Streight widens, and between Cd.^I>iggs and theNorthMain it is twenty Leagues The Soundings at the Entrance are two hundred Fathom, and the ordinary Depths in the Middle of the Streights are one hundred and twenty Fa- thom, but the Soundings decreafe towards the Shores and Iflands, at very various Depths. Hudfon*s Streights, and Davis* s Streights, arc Drains by which the Land Waters (the Pro- duce of the melting Snow) empty themfelv^s into the Ocean, at fuch Times occafioning ex- ti-aordinary Currents, into which the Ice fets, after Difcovery tfa North-Weft Paffage. 73 after being loofencd by the Thaw in the Rivers, Auguft. on the Shoal Shores, and out of the infinite Number of fmall Bays, which are in all thofc Parts, and floated out of fuch Rivers, Bays, and off fuch Shores ; and this Ice, fo fetting forward for the Ocean with thefe Currents, is what ob- ftrufts the Paflage up the Streights for the firft Summer Months \ not Ice generated in the Streights themfelves, which, only the Tide con- fidered, would be impoflible. So it commonly happens that in the Month of September^ in pafling the Streights you fee little or no Ice, the Ice of that Year being either melted or gone into the Ocean ; and there being no Ice to come until the next Spring : Therefore it is queftioned by fome, whether it would not be better to pafs the Streights the latter End of Aprils or early in May^ as the Spring would be then ju(l begun to the Southward, and confequently not to the Northward, for which Reafon lefs Ice would be afloat, and therefore lefs to hinder the Paflage up the Streights. What is pradifed by the Hud- fon Bay Ships is no Precedent in the Cafe ; they going at a Time when it is moft fuitable with refpecSt to their Trade, which is not in before the latter End of June, and their Cargoes not ready until July ; none of the Difcoverers (excepting Mr. Bylot) ever entered the Streights until June, Mr. Bylot entered them the 17th of May, at which Time he was forced to return on account L of I m ' •.'??,■ •■♦'J til M.. .^4-1 't,-iJ mU ffil. '. i.ri 74 ji y or AOE fir th Auguft. of the Ice •, not entering the Streights again until the twenty-ninth of the fame Month. Upon the Land are Land Animals, as Bears, Foxes, Deerj Wolves; alfo Fowl, as Partridge. No Fifli have been ever catched in the Water of the Streights, but it is frequented by white Bears, and a great Number of Seals, which are fome- times in the Water, at other times upon the Shore or upon Pieces of the Ice. There are alfo Sea Unicorns, fome of them were feen by Captain Fox, and their Horns are to be bought fome- times of the EJkemaux. A Whale before this Voyage, hath never been feen twenty Leagues up the Streights. There is plenty of Water Fowl, fuch as Willocks, Sea Pigeons, and Gulls. In the pafiing this Straight the North Shore is kept to by all Ships, as being clearell of Ice, the Currents Ihooting over to the South and Eaft- ward, attrafted by a Bay at the Back of Cape Charles^ and of a much larger Bay mentioned to the Weftwar'd and Southward of the Entrance of this Streight. When they arrive at the Length of Cape CharleSy they ufually ftand over to the Southward, as being the neareftCourfe to go into HudforCs Streights ; not that the Streight is not equally Navigable between Salijbury and Notting- ham, and the North Main, as it is to the South- ward. There may be alfo another Reafon, befides the Nearnefs, for the going to the Southward of thefe Iflands, though that is Reafon fufficient, which Tiifctfl3try of a North-Weft Paffage, y^ which is that the Channel to the Northward of Auguft. Nottingham lies fairer to receive the Ice that fhall come down the Namelefs Streight and from Baf- fyne\ Bay, than the Channel to the Southward does. The Ships bound for the Bay may alfo go to the Southward of thefe Iflands as they are mor? in the Tide's Way which goes into //«<:// and found a very fenfible Dif- ference • As to Car/t-Sivan$ Nejf, with Pmbroit, and Souths hamptotit the two Capes, one to the Eaftward, and the other to the Wcftward of Gary' t-Swans Nejf, Captain Fox^ jn his Account, P. 119, fays Sir Thomas Button paflcd from Sir. Dudlty Digg$*s JJle^ to a Cape on the North Side of his Bay's Entrance, which he named Car/s-Swam Neji^ (and his Bay, or Button** Bay M properly all that Part of Hudforft Bay, which is more Northward than D'tggs** Iflands.) Again Captain Fox, P. 198, 1 think fo named (fpcaking of ManftVs Iflc) by Sir Thomas Button^ as alfo Cape Pern- hroke, Southampton^ and Car/ s- Swam Neji, theJaftmoft eminent of the three. Again P. 200, made faft to the Ice, a reafonable Diftance from the low Ifland, as it feemed, for he thought he could fee both Ends.— — The Land lay Eaft and Weft, but be could not fully far It was an Ifland, for it lay like a Ridge, or, to fimily «t, like to theRetyres, in the Mouth of the River of Seine in Normandj, Upon the 21ft of July^ he made M from ■y 'ill tilt I -■'! W' 82 -;/^ Vo Y A o E for the Auguft, fcrcnce, as to Cold, with refpeft to what we had felt in the Streights, or before entering of them j the Afternoon was cloudy, and Wind to E; N. E. though but fmall, at ten to N. N. W. ftill cloudy. The Soundings at Noon were 90 Fathoms foft ouzy Ground. Saw a Plover To-day which was the firft we had feen. At ; f' t( ct <« C( <( «l from the Ice, to (land to the Land; fenf his Bdat Afliore to try the Tide, and concludes, *< AHuibdly this was Gary's- Swans Ne/fj for, both from Eaftto Weft Ends, it ftrctcheth to the North j our Men chas'd Swans on Shore, but got none } they fay there is Earth, ftrange Mofs, Qiiagmires and ' Watcr-plafties. At 4 o'clock I took Leaver and fiood from 6 Fathoms into 30, loflng Sight thereof; and from thence I flood to the Weftward, with a North- Weft ^Wind, clofb hailed ; leaving both the Cape'anJice behind me". — P. 228. 229, — upon his Return Captain Fox fays, *' Being at Noon (September 7th) in Lat. 61, 15. <* the depth 90 Fathoms ; all this Day with an E% S. £, «« Wind, I ftood N. E. by N. clofe hailed, 13 •* Leagues ; this Night, I faw the Land by my Account *• about Cary's-Swans Nt/if from whence I departed ** the 2ift of July. — I think, if I»had not come forth ** upon the Deck, as I did, v/e hadrun Afhore.upon this low Land ; I caufed prefently to tack about, and we ftood off again into 70 Fathoms ; we had but 14, prefently after we had tacked. " We were in 62. 21. the Land true North 6 Miles «* off"; I found it to be Cape Pembroke, 2 or 3 Leagues " diftant N. E. from Cary's-Swans Ne/i\ with this S. ** E. Wind, 1 was fain to ply up for Sea-Horfe Point. «* This Land is ftony, and a good bold Shore; I ftood ♦' off into 90, and in again into 13 Fathoms, and fome- tlmes lefs. By this (that is the 9th) we have plied up another Cape, the Deep of whofe Bay, betwixt the fame and Ope Pembroke, maketh the E; Side tliercof lie near S.- and by E, I was in 7 Fathoms in «( «< Difcovery of a Nortb-^efl Pafage, 83 At two in the Morning of the ninth, the Wind Auguft. was round to N. N. E* and frefti, cloudy until ^ ' ten, then fair and clear-, the Wind N.W. byN. Latitude 62. 13. Longitude 89. 56. Soundings, at Noon foftOuzy Ground, 95. Fathom. The Afternoon cloudy until two, then clear with Sun-fhiqe, the Evening pleafant, at Night fine clear " in th» Bay. ~^ Wh^n I doubled this Cap?, the Land " ftretched to the Ni lii dutiful Rwncmbrance I named «» it Cape Linfey ; the Lapd beyond lay N, E. — Fox «^ in his Account of^ir Thmtis Buti4n\ Voyage, P. 133. «• Ho (Sir Thmas Button) ca^pc to 43. Fatlioms, «« which Sboaling wa& uj^n the North Part of the «« Ifland he watered upon (which was ManfiFs Ifle) and « thi« Ifland, and the faid Cape, Cape Pembroke, where «» his Boat was at the I4tb Day, lie S. S. E. I Eafter- ** ly and N. N. W. f Northerly, about ten Leagues " between both. Captain Jamei*s Voyage for the Difcovertng. a Pajfage « to the South Sea, Auguft the 19th, we continued our «« Couf fe between the N. N. E. and the N. by E. and " by Noon were in Lat. 61. 7. f«me twelve Leagues »* ofF the Shore, I ordered the Mafter, to ihape his «* Courfe N. E. to look to that Place betwixt Caryi- Swam Neji and Ne ultra. The lift, we were m Lat. 61. 45. -the 21ft, the Water fhoal'd, fo that - we did make Account, that we approached the Land, " but, at Noon, the Wind came up at N. E. diredly « oppofite. We loofed as near in as we could, and as it « en'arwd we came toftand E. and E. byN. the 22d, " we fell with the Land to Weft ward oiCary\- Swans- « Nefl, where we had 40 Fathoms, three Leagues oftj « we flood in within a League of the Shore, into 15 " Fathoms, and feeing the Land to the Southward of us, " we compaffed about it, it being Cary S'SwansNeffy « which is in Lat. 62. all the 23d, we failed N. &. «« and for ^he moft Part in Sight of Land. , I\I % Captain ?1 I ■.i • ',. ^-^fi / ''V M mil 'I Ififj ' t? Augift. icth. •^ VOYAG J ^or the dtzv Wmher ; this Day, and the Day before a great Quantity of Sea-weed paffed us, and the Sea though clear, appearing ahb of "a dark green Colour, and was very Frothy, which was fun- pofcd tc be an Inftance of there being no Ice in thofe Parts. The Morning of the tenth was fine and clear, very picafant, and produced the moft delightful Day we had feen fince we left the Orkneys, though a frelh Gale at W. N. W. our Latitude 6, 22 Longitude 91. 18. W. Soundings 70 Fathoms! At three faw the Land N. W. Northerly to the N. E. byE. 3nd at fix the Wefternmoft Point in Sight, W. by N. the Eafternmoft E. Northerly, Captain /?** in his Account of Sir ^mas Button^s Exped^tiouP. 128. ^s to O.^ Southampton, JZ} 5th, at two .n the Morning, he'^ftaids fZ Leagues NE. and until Noon \ven Leagues S 7 W and paft four that Morning he faw Land abou; tZtklTu^'^'c -^'""'"S from £. to S. he writ^th that the S^ht of ,t gneved him much, fo that now ; he madehimfelf a^ured of that which he did bu^ " T"oo:^r:!i^^j;. '""^ "^«^« ^ "-^^ but ** All the Afternoon, he flood alon^ the Shon. " N^E^'^:/ ^^'^^T^ ^"^ crofsa^KhSrS ;; bear from h^n, N. W. by N 70 t'aMie^ "^^^tn fteermgwuhin le/s than o^,e Mile of ^h^Qp^^^^^^^^ 1 " ""T ^u * ^''' °"'= ^f ^ J°^ oneTever he faw, you fliall have o to 10 Fathom »n-4 4U 11 " a very f.fe Bay. The Eie.n T .p.'r/u!?!.^.^!!,^" « from you E. by N. 4 Leagues off"^ "'""'* ""^ ''" fteming IX/cevery of a Nortb-JFefi Pafage. 8 c feeming to be a Bay with Idands at the Bottom, A«g««. and Inlets, a plain level Shore (but no Tude- ment could be formed, the Haze being over I) wT fT'- "P°" Sounding, there was but 35 fathom and Rocky Ground. It was thought beft to ftand out all Night with the Ships, and return m the Morning. The Night wal clear, (o to two in the Morning of the eleventh. ..d, when tf« Wuid was W. S. W. at feven o'clock « was hazy, and at eight a thick Fog which con- nnued untU Noon, then a ftrong Wind at S. W J.antude 63. 22. Longitude 92. ,8. w. Wind « two W. N. W. cauHng it to be cold mo- derating fometimes, and then frelhening. The Morning of th« tewlfth. at four the Wind came ,«h to N. by E. altermg the Weather from cold to warm, the Wind not abated until ten, thenN. by W. Latitude 62. 43. Longitude 92. 30. W. Soundings at Noon 75 Fathoms, Ouze with fome ImaU Sand. The Afternoon clear Weather and ffloderate; in the Evening being alfo clear, wc IW the Land olMarileliU^ about five League, off, the Soundings were 70 Fathoms though fo near this lOand. ^ ■£ •'* •;!A"lft!' ■.. ijJJr'HlFi !.U> •■•^"S W?ali,f ft!iTt -,^^« Morning, pleafant .3th. weather, flood m for the Jfland, but the Wind became fmall, and it was almoft calm ; Captain f^f made a Signal to fpeak with Captain sLf, r-,^* '" o "^ CaUforma^ in wi '-aptain .^/»//^ went, fome little Time after ! which the Boat '• I- k $;*-^ '\iv Aogutfl BSar^^Terit'fortfiedffiCiers, andSurgebn, who wfi^el^embefs' of tlie'CounCili toehold a Coun- cil ori^6'oa«i*tlie 2)^^^^: 'file folding* thel^Cbtincils W^s inlTituted by tfic Irtftruaibift' virliicK the' Captains had^ deli- v^ritd tcJ tlie'rti ih^Wi-iting; before their fetting out; and^ffgned by tHe Ndttti-Wefl^ Committee, Which' cdnfifted'of rtine of dieSilbfcribers to this U'rid'eftalitig; dfe^Oted by the reft for the Ma- nigerff€Ai of it. 1*hdef Counciib by fuch fn- ftriiftlbnrwfeire' tv h^ compofed of thcr Captains of' the tv^b Ships; tfte lieutenants, rfne Mates, the^ufgfebns, tite MHSetaiift or Draughts-man. tftlie Ships ^'ere' (kp^rated, then the Captain, Lieutenant, Mate, aiidf Surgeon 6f each Ship refpe£tivel!y were to compofe a CoundJ on Board luch Ship. Thefe Councils were intended to be held lit all difficurt Cafes, or ^here EToubts might arife to confidcr on the moft prudent Method of proceeding to make out the Difcovery, and to de- termine by a Majority what fliould then be done, and the Minority had a kight to enter their Ob- jeftidns or Rcafons for not Affenting. The Council was held on Board the Dohh, and an A£t of Council drawn up, the Purport of which was, *' That on the eleventh Inftant, ^*' about Noon, we had fallen in with the Land *« between the Latitude 6a. oo. and 62. 20. N. --■ - f ^^ *"* where we intended to fcarch tbe Coaft and try the Tides, but were difappointed therein by *« thick «c « thick Weather, -and,|,ard Q^ksj^f Wmd.fo Auguft. 'S«bat we could w)t.attempt it aXecondXiroe this Seafon, with, any, hopes of Syccefs, and « finding oiM:fclves,.in Sight of ^ooCcpikam «* which .we judged, to be a very favoHrablc « Place to try the true Knowledge of the^Tides, "^we therefore refoMto fend tjiittier .^he ,t;^o « Long-Boats, '». the Inieutenant of fai;h ,S^p was to have the Command of the ^atielonging to his refpedtive Ship, and to fet out with alfco^ vement Expedition fpr theWeftern ^art of, the Ifland, there, to .determine from whence l;he.Tide flowed, theCourfe, Height. Yelopitjr of theTidc, aqd Time of high A^^ater ; and if a fiqpd Tide cam^ from the leftward, and anyppening,.they were. ta. repair to that ?lace, to try'(|e fide thei:e, if fafely'they cquld i they^were to ,fearch for a fecureHarbQi?r, flioyldJt be neceffary^to bring theShip^ tp an.AnchorJor a further ^arch. In.cafe of extraordinary jbad WcatheV the'?pats were to repair Aboard,, on Signal^^ m^e, and Signals were fixed, on for the Ws , repairing Aboard, and for other Purppfes, j^jiich ^iie Lieutenants were to obferve, and an Acco^n£ of them was given in Wri^ng for that jpurpofe/ It, appears froiri Part of this Acl: of Council, which mentions the Opening, the Tide from the Wcftward, and the Harbouring, thaf there was - a particular View therein, to the Pifcoverjes made by Lieutenant Rankin^ when with Captain ■ Middkton in 1742. Lieutenant Rankin having difcovered !ii .if "il'v kmm I \ IP \\k'' '^ i !';^i i^Bii^S W Hii^ 'II BhB'V' '< '''' K||jJ|;! ■ 'i"! iff'S'' ' '■' i lil'i i ''l( 1 ^".'.->ar j \| mi r'' |l|«; '1 "^ Ii 11 fiiifi^ ||?,iij lilfv ^^^^^^ 3'j< ■.•■ ^^^^KHI: !<:>''{ 11 1^ ■ 1 i :r'i Hn l^'' ^Hti 1 '1 H fl nl ^'■!, 1 fiji 1 |i ^ i i ij 1 1^ 1 !( ^1 1 i! fL~l ■ 1! 1 1^ ,; . ^^HiiiM ■■ ^^HsIiM' ^HlK f ^^^^^^IuIkM^ ti u. 88 A VoYXGJ^ for the Aaguft. difcovered a Cove S. W. of this Ifland, which, receiving its Appellation from him, is called Rankin's Cove, and the Ifland is promifcuoufly called Marhle Ifland, or Brook Cohbam, which Cove appeared to be a very good Harbour, he alfo difcovered that there was a ftrong Tide of Flood fuddenly from W. N. W. round the N. W. End of the Ifland, and an Opening to the Weft- ward of the Ifland. About half an Hour after nine, purfuant to the Refult of the Council, the Calif or ma's Long- Boat was ready, the fine Weather which had been all Day continuing, but the lefs acceptable by Reafon of there being fo little Wind : In the Long-Boat were the Lieutenant, the Clerk, fix Hands and a Boy ; the Long-Boat about feven Tun, rigged with Sloop Maft and Sails, well provided with Provifion and all NecefTaries, and thofe in her well armed ; their Arms were a De- fence for them againft the EJkmaux, who alfo are in thofe Parts at this Seafon, though fome- what different from thofe on the Labrador Cod&^ neither do they come from thence. They in the Boat alfo, by the Means of their Fire-Arms, could procure an additional Supply of frefli Pro- vifions to thofe which they already had, and of which there was a Sufficiency (houldthe Boats be feparated from the Ships, to laftthemas long a Timeas it would take them to get to Churchill Fadory, if they ihould be able to attain there. Both Difcovery of a Nortb-Weji Paffage. 89 Both Long-Boats being ready, they fet off; Auguih but, it falling calm, they returned each alongfide their refpedive Ships. At twelve, there being a fmall Breeze of Wind, they fet off again, fleer- ing N. E. for the Ifland, being five Leagues off-, from the Smallnefs of the Wind, we were obliged fometimes to ufe our Oars. Seeing a great Number of Seals, and of a larger Size than any we had feen before, remarkably grey with large Whifkers -, they came very near to the Boat, and were very fportive ; nor did we inter- rupt their Diverfion, not knowing how neceffary our Powder might be. This Ifland which is about feven Leagues long, and three over in the broad-fl Part, lying E. by S. and W. by N. the true bearing Va- riation allowed, was firlV difcovered by Captain Fox to be an Ifland ; and by him called a White Ifland^ and named Brook Cobham, then think- ing of the many Furtherances this Voyage recei- ved from that honourable Knight Sir John Brook, who, together with Mr. Henry Brig^s, the Ma- thematical Profeffor at Oxford, were the firfl that countenanced him in this Undertaking. It is now called Marble Ifland, from being moflly Marble, and appearing at a Diflance, as well as near, of a greyifli white Colour. This Ifland is low to the Eafl:ward, fo ar'*j'^cring to the De- fcription which Captain Fox gives it, as to the Eafl Part where his Boat went Afliore, and where his Ship lay off of, but by the South-Eaft Point N of ■••^1.1 m 'IM A V o\ KGiL far the of the Ifland, by the South, away to the South- Weftern-moft, it gradually afccjids utitil it comes to be a high fteep Point or Scrag of greyifh 3tone, named by Scroggs^ Pitts Mount, with fome Jarge Spots of white near, much rcfembling Snow, and is occafioned by the ScdimentJ of Marble Duft, worn off and lodged there by the Walhing of the Rains and melted Snows. From this Mount it ftretches again away to the Weft- ward, uneven and hilly, and the South- Weftern- pioft Point is a bold high Land. We were at eight in the Morning about a Mile from the IQand, hearing the Rut upon the Shore very plainly. The Eaftern Part about a League to the Eaftward of us, from thence we ftood to the Wcftward in Search of Rankin's Cove, there being a Hollow in the Land about three Leagues off, we fuppofed that Hollow to be it. The Wind falling fmall, we were forced to ufe our Oars, not arriving off the Hollow before twelve ; as we arrived nearer ; it appeared lefs hollow ; when oppofite, quite even, with no Opening, and large Breakers upon the Shore. We then ftood out to round a Headland, which formed a fmall Bay, but rowed with two Oars in half an Hour further, than we could be- fore with our four Oars in the Hour : This we plainly perceived, and attributed it to the Tide of Ebb out of Rankin' % Cove, which had been miffedj and our being fo delayed from eight to |:welve, to the Tide of Flood then coming on. We Difamry efa Nortb-tVefi Pajagi. 91 We proceeded to ftand out from the Shore Auguft. hear two Miles, opening two other Points of the Land to the Wcftward, we had there in View broken Lands, a bluff Point of main Land* which was N. W. by W^W. Land alfo W. N. W. and the Weftetn-moft Land in Sight, a Land which feemed (but looked to be low) like the Head of a Main-Land, between this Bluff and the fuppofed Main-Land, there feemed to to be a large Inlet or Opening, with fome Iflands neai to the high Bluff, the High- Land from the Bluff ran to theEaftward, and was fhutinwith the Weftern-moft Part or Point oi Marhle Ifland. To make a better Obfervation we let go our Anchor^ when our Anchor was gone, we found the Tide, by the Riding of the Buoy came Ahead from the Weftward, running to the Eaftward, and at the fame Time perceived it had fell along Shore fome Feet -, this was a Contradiction to the Tide we had before experienced, and which had carried us to the Weftward before we an- chored, and ftood fo far out from the Shore. Therefore we concluded there muft be two Tides here, the one an Eaftern Tide which we were an- chored with our Head to, for we knew it could not be that Eaftern Tide, that occafioned our be-^ ing fo let to the Weftward, and there muft be confequently a different, or Weftern Tide, under Shore j or perhaps which was more probable, it flowed Tide and half Tide (that is, that the Flood runs ftill the Way of Flood, until it be half N 2 Ebb -, 92 Aiigult. 1 lt!P. A V OY AG ^ for the Ebb on Shore, and the Ebb runs likewife its Courfe in Continuance until it be half Flood upon the Shore) and we were kept in this Uncertainty, weighing foon after in compliance with the other Boat, Handing round to the Weftward of the Ifland. The Water was extremely clear, of a light green Colour, and full of Sea-Spiders. As we coafted along the Ifland, we perceived on the Shore fmgle Stones piled one upon the other i the Pile about three Feet and a half in Height, the Stones, each about the Size of a large Paving-ftone : We faw alfo a white Whale. When we approached the Point to go to the Weftward of the Ifland, we difcovered a Reef of Rocks running out, having at firft fixteen Fa- thorns Water, in two Ships Length but five, and then but three Fathoms, upon which we bore away into better Soundings, as fix Fathoms, fo continued in good Soundings ; as we opened the Land going round to the Weftward of the Ifland, we faw a Point at the Weft End of the Ifland, about two Miles, or two Miles and a half Diftance -, behind which, we were in Hopes of finding a Harbour, if not for the Ships, yet /or the Boats, fo neceflary before Night, and which we had fought in vain along the South Part of the Ifland. When we had this Point open, we faw a level Beach-Shore, with a Deer ftanding on it, looking at us, this made our People eager to land, and, the other Boat confenting to it, we ftood in for this Shore, and ran up to the Head of Difcovery of a North-Weft Pafage. 93 of a Bay which is formed by two Points of Augaft. a Rock i which Rock alfo runs all round the Head of it. Some of the Hands were left to look after the Boats, which they were to keep at an Anchor a fmall Diftance from the Shore, and the others which went Afliore, being armed, were ordered not to ramble far from the Boats, and to keep together that they might not be furprized, but this Order (having feen no Natives within a Quarter of an Hour after that they were Alhore, therefore they were willing to conclude there were none) they foon difregarded ; for when the Officers were going over Land in Search of Har- bours, they heard a Firing of Guns from almoft every Part of the inand, now and then feeing one of the Boat's People on an Eminence, perhaps two on another ; they were all difperfed and ftraggling. The Game the Boat's People met with was Gttk, Swans, Ducks, and a great Variety of other Wild Fowl, with fome fmall Birds: which were moulting and breeding here in great Numbers, In the Swamps about the the IHand. There were young Swans, and Gof- lings in the Ponds, amongft which our People had the greateft Succefs, as they could ford into the Water, and reach them with Cutlafhes, or knock them down with Sticks. This Ifland, which rifes high from the Sea, is chiefly compofed of a cosrfe Marble, it is hilly within. Hi ■ St- Mi mm 1 I ■I 1 li ■ ! : 1 ^^HWH li ii 94 AVo^A&Mfoftk Augoft. within* but not mountainous between thefe Hills^ which are all Rocks of Marble, are pleafant Swades with large Ponds, and the Swadcs produce long Grafs, Mofs, Heath, and fmall Flowers, but no Wood or Brufh of any Kind, only here and there a fmall twig Shrub growing from Clefts be- tween two Stones of the Rocksi you continually fee Stones, fet up one upon another, fuch as we obferved in coming round the Idand ; and ufually on Heights, not only towards the Shores, but many in the inland Parts in Rows at a fmall Diftancc one from the other, fo that it is not readily to be judged what Purpofe they are fet up for -, had they been» on the Heights near the Shores only, they might have been fuppofed as Sea-marks. We faw feveral plain Spots, upon which feem- ingly Tents had been ercAed, with a Quantity ofDeersand other Bones lying together-, here and there rotten Horns. There was alfo a Cir- cle of Stones of about fix Feet in Diameter, raifed about two Feet high lightly pitched one on the other j there was nothing in the Manner of it neai: or curious, only fcrving to fliew that thefe Parts have been frequented by feme People. From fome of the Ponds, which were on higher Ground there are Trenches, caft up about a Foot deep, and two Feet in Width, the Ground being turnedto a Ridge on the one Side, as is done in making a Ditch. The Purpofe of thefe Trenches is fecm- ingly to difcharge the Ponds, when over-char- ged Difcoviry rf a Nortb^Weft Paffage. 95 ged with Water from Thaws or Urge Rains ; fo Auguft. keeping the upper Land dry. One of the Men came to the Officers and told them, that he had fecn fomcthing in the Water roiled in a great Heap together, and a great Length of it, that he had turned it, but could not tell what it was 5 then hafted away fuppofing there were Inhabitants. The Officers having got a Parcel of the People together, they wentwithhim, but in the Purfuit, fell in with what they were before looking for, {Ranking Cove) They being then to the South- Weft Part of the Ifland, faw a fmall IQand juft off the Shore, with aRoadftead on the Infide ; upon which they afcend the Rocks to the left, and faw beneath them a fine Canal, about half a Mile in Length, the Sides high Marble Clifts, not difficult of Defcent; at the upper End a flat Swamp, and half Way crofs the Bottom a high Marble Cliff, as on the Sides, the other Part an Opening, or Entrance, by which this Cove communicates with the Sea. but the Entrance is covered by the Ifland feen before crofllng the Cliffs. After taking a Survey of this Cove, (and Ihoot- ing fome Wild Fowl, of which there were not lefs than two hundred fwimming at the Entrance of the Cove, but with little Advantage, having no Boat there to fetch what was killed) returned over Land towards the Boats, in order to take a View nf M-io Tn1<^ C^f^,^ ^\ tj_:-_i-^^ . o r — -! ^..v. xUi^y. iiOm lac rfcignis at Sun-fet, which m 1 '■■•J,'. 96 A V OY AG z fir the Auguft. which appeared then more promifing. The Land to the Weftward of the high BhifF, trenched away to the Weftward, and the Extream of it at fuch a Diftance as not to be terminated by the Eye : Off this Land there appeared a high Sugar-Loaf Ifland, with fome others, beyond a clear Sea •, and that Land which looked like the Head of a Main Land, forming the South Part of this In- let, appeared at leaft eight Leagues from Marble Ifland, lying North and South, from the North it ftretched but a little Way to the Weftward \ then the Land, feem'd to turn Ihort off, and run away South i and the Sea feemingly ran away S. W. . Returning to the Boats, an Ice-Pole had been fet up on the Beach for to know the Height of the Tide, purfuant to Orders left. And the Dobbs Long-Boat, it beingthen Flood-Tide, went off to try it, but making this Trial of the Tide within the Channel, between the Main and Marble Ifland, they found it came agreeable to the Courfe of the Channel, from the Eaftward, running five Fathoms •, but this Trial, as it was to the Eaftward of the Blufi^, gave no Satisfaftion as to what Tide came out from the Inlet , r whr^t Courfe this Tide took when clear of th' <-'^hani •; j or what Courfe it had before it entered fuch Channel ; though it was difcernablc from the Heights, that, when clear of the Channel, the Tic'e fet round the South End of Marble Ifland ■V.S ih^. Eaftward. This Channel is formed by the Weft End of Marble Ifland, and the Shore running hinningto theEaftward of the faid Bluff i which Auguft. appeared to be a continued Main. The Chan- nel is nine Leagues in Length, and three Leagues Broad^ having an Idand in the Middle^ "While the Boat Was gone^ thofe left behind Were employed in Cooking ; there haVtng been no Vi«5luais drefled fince their leaving the Ships. Befide 1 the Fuel which they had in the Boats, they picked up drift Wood along the Shore* amongft which, they light upon a Piece of Oak about two Feet in Lengthy with luch Trunnel |>^ Holes as are made in Ships Sides^ and an Edge to it where it had been caulked, there was alfo picked up> the Stave of a Buoy, about the Size of a Barrel Stave «, in all probability they were Part of the Remains of the Wreck of the Ships in which Mr. Knight^ and Mr. Barlow^ who Were fitted out by the HudJon*s Bay Company in the Year 1720^ to make a Difcovery, were loft i and it was on this Ifland that Mr. Scroggs^s People^ who were fent from Churchill, to make fome Inquiry after thefe Ships in the Year 1722, faw a Piece of the Lining of the Cabin, the Medicine Cheft* the Ice-Poles, and Part of the Maft in Poffeffion of the E/kemaux, nor would the EJkemaux trade any Iron ; what alfo adds to thefe Probabilities isj that there are few Coafts in the World, upon which (as we afterwards found) an Accident of this Kind could be fooner ill expected. '•MS I! O What .3i. 98 ^Voyage for the Auguft. m :.M 15th. What became of the People is alfo uncertain, Scrc'ggs thought that fome ofthe.n were drowned, ar«d that others had fufFered in a Fray vath the EJkmaux, one of the EJkemaux having a ^arge Scar on his Chtek, like 2, Cut with a Cutiafh, and at that Time a green Wound ; but Captain Smith mentions, that when he traded with the EJkemaux at tVhale Cove, they ufed to Ihew him a young Lad, and call him Engiijh Mane, allud- ing to his being an Engljh Man, whofe Age was feemmgly fuitable to the Time of thefe Peoples Misfortune, the Lad appeared as of a mixed Breed, which makes it probable that one or more of the People might get Alhore and live fome- time amongtt the EJkemaux, after the Accident • as long poffibly as they could with eating their Diet, and the Nature of tlie Climate. Wefupped that Night on the Rock, cold and unpleafant, and went on Board the Boats an twelve; having feen the Height of the Tide which was ten Feet. In the Morning propofed fcarching Rankin's Cove, and two others to the Northward and Eaftward of that in which the Boats were ; afterwards to repair to the Ships which we faw in the, Evening. But there cominc^ on a thick wet Fog, which did not clear until eight and then for fo Imall a Time, as only tc admit us to run into one of the other Coves, and there being little Profpec^ of the Fog clearing on die Water, fo as we could purfue our intended Dejlsn ; Difcovery of a North-Weft Pajfage, , 99 Defign ; we walked over to Rankin* u Cove, and AuguiK from thence to where the Pole ftood, which had been fet up the Night before for the Trial of the Tide. Finding at Rankings Cove that it was about high Water, and where the Pole' ftood that it was Ebb, having flowed as we could conje6turc from the Pole (it not being marked j much about the fame as the Night before •, and high W?xer then, Auguji the 15th at twelve : So it appear' d to be one and the fame Tide at where the Pole ft:ood, and at Rankin's Cove. About one (clearer Weather) returned to the Boats, we heard four Guns on the North- Eafl. Part of the Ifland, as we fuppofed, which was a peremptory Signal for our coming off, and accordingly fet out with the Long-Boats. The Long- Boat of the California fl:anding out much further than the Dobbs Long-Boat, almoft to the Ifland in the Mid-Channel, found a ftronger Tide there, (hoifting to the Eaftward) than was nearer to Marble Ifland. The Boat getting far Ahead of the other. What this Tide was we were incapable of judging, not being nigh enough the Shore of the IQand in the Mid-Channel, to know whether it vas Flood or Ebb, though we knew the Tide under Marble Ifland to be Ebb, but this feemed a difl:in6t Tide from that •, if it was but one Tide, we then fuppofed it flowed Tide llf X l^aV) uii\a i.ittt t !t the Ebb which we were got in, by the Help of which we could have got Aboard the Ships or re and O 2 i|. *■.'%!'-,► 'I i' 4\ ' * -1 ♦ 1 '^y ' '.. i, w ' ^'ikii 100 Auguft^ 1 6th. t'. 'i A VoYAQE/ort&e round to Rankin's Cove. But the other Boat by keeping inShoar could not, and not willing to feparate we ftood back for them, and both Boats returned to the Cove we came from. Where fnot pleafed with the laft Nights Accomodation ha- .vingno better Lodging than in the Sails, which were foon wet with the Fog) we erefted a Tent -, fetting up the Oars, and Ice Poles, and covering them with a Sale, making a Fire in the Middle, there being an opening at the Top of the Tent, where the Oars and Ice Poles met to let out the Smpak, round the Fire, we itrewed'd dry Grafs, which the People cut down with Cutlaihes. Our Situation was under a Rock, which covered us fron^ the Wind, on a pleafant Rifing Swade, that run up a long Way above us, and the Tent had a'fuU View of the Boats, and the Water, about two Hundred Yards below. This Tent held both Boats Company excepting four, who by Lot had the care of the Boats. The Ships were feen in the Evening, three Leagues off t^e Shore, bearing S, W. by S. This Night pleafant agreeable Weather as in in the Afternoon before, was fpent more comfort- ably then the proceeding, at four the nextMornr ing fine pleafant Weather, the Tent ftruck, and things Aboard the Boats, one of which, the Vohl>'s Boat being got fo fav a Ground as not tq be able to get off until the Flood, the other Boa? fct out for liankin's Cove, to make a full Difco- vcry Difcovery of a Nortb-Weft Paffage. loi very of that, and there wait the Arrival of the Augail. J)oibs*s Boat, as foon as the Tide would admit. Two of the California's People went over Land to make Signal of the Heights to the Boat, when off Rankin's Coves Mouth i and to ftiew by which Entrance, either to the Eaftward or Wcfti- ward of the Ifland, that lay off the Coves Mouth, it was proper for the Boat to come in at. They obferved that to the Weftward of fuch Ifland, which lay off the Coves Mouth, there was a flat Shoal, the Tide breaking faft upon it, and that at about a Quarter before nine, and at a Quarter before ten, the Tide came in over fuch a Shoal with a kind of Rulh, until wluch Time there ap- peared no Tide at the Entrance to the Eafl:ward pf this Ifland, as there did immediately after. And then alfo the Flood was perceptible \n the Cove, The Boat, according to the Signal made, en- tered by fuch Eaftern Entrance, which without (uch Signal, it would have been difficuk to have difcovered it, as we had e5?perienced in paffing it two Days before. They entered the Cove, at a- bout a Quarter after ten, founded it, found at the Mouth of it, at going in, not above fix Feet Water, the Entrance very Narrow, not exceed- ing in width the Length of two Ships, and in the Cove found twenty one Fathoms Water, Sandy Rrktto»^ nwinor fn tht^ meltinff Snows and Waters off the Land, not the Influx of the Sea, which that Day flowed but i\% Fee?, ^s m obferved b;^ ' .'. "v'i ** •iff 102 Auguft. -v'lr -^Voyage for fHif the Shore ; and when we came at one o'Glock out of Rankings Cove, in Company with the other Boat (which had before joined us; we then found at the Entrance, and the Tide only upon the Turn, no more then from thirteen to four- teen Feet Water. Two of the People, who had been on the Heights to look out for the Ships, which had hoifted a Signal, for our coming Aboard, faw two Whales coming from the Weftward. The Ships, were about three Leagues off and ly- ing by, at two they faw us, and bore away for us ; at three we were alongfide after an unpleafant Voyage, the Weather being changed to cloudy, with a frefli Gale, and great Surf of the Sea, up- on our firft Handing out from the Shore. Upon our Return, the Lieutenant of the Califor- fiia made his Report of their being no Harbour. The Entrance to Rankin's Cove too (hallow to ad- mit Ships into the Cove, and the other Coves feen to Weftward of the Idand, fit only for anchoring fmall Veffels, which Report he was ordered to put in writing -, together with whatObfervations he had made as to the Tides, to be laid before the Coun- cil, which accordingly met that Evening Aboard the California^ when the Report was produced. But no Report on the Part of the Lieutenant of the Bobbs, who was appointed by Council to aa as Chief in that Affair, but fome Notes read by the Brnftfman as his own, which were agree- able mfcover^f of a North-Wejl Paffage ,05 able to the Report made by the Lieutenant of the Auguft. Cahforma ; and the Draft/man was at more lei- fure, to form a Report from them ; but fuch Re- port if drawn up was never given in. After hearing the Report and Notes It then propofed and forty Hours was that the Ships fhould hold up eight irs, in hoDes of a Ivff-^i.r»^^-.-.^.-_? better Opportuni- contrary try the tyy the Wind being then Inle^ which Captain Smith oppofed. Though the Propofal wasleemingly proper, fuiting with the Service we were fent on, and with the Inclina- tion of every one; yet in reality it wasnotprafti- cable without running an extream Hazard For as It was propofed ; that the Ships Ihould go in amongft broken Lands, where there was a num- her of Shoals and Rocks and all unknown , when he Nights were Dark, and it was a Seafon for thick Weather with Gales of Wind , there would be little or no poffibility of thofe Ships being kept clear, from going on fuch Shoals orRocks. by reafon of the Darknefs of the Nights, the Ihicknefsofthe Weather, or from the Force of Winds ; the Confequence of which would be the Lofs of the Ships, and of all thofe that were in them. There was an Inftance, of this Kind in thole unfortunate Gentlemen iC^;;?/./ 2.ixd Barlow, For to nothing can their Lofs, and of thole that were with them, be fo properly attributed as to their late com i no- \ntr\ ^h-ff P^sr*- -r>-i -u • ! j^ ,„v%j. t-auc x^arcs, una ineir then going in amongft the broken Lands, with their ih'ps, and their Ships being their fet a Ground. or i "^•t % I *.*!;i :-.|.. , .'-.!' 104 ^ V o V A 6 * /^r tht Auguft. or on the Shoals, or Rocks, cither from the Darkntfs of the Night, the thicknels of the Wea- ther, or a Gale of Wind. The Circumftance of the Buoy Stave found at Marble Ifland, as mentio- ned i and the Things found by Scroggs, at the fame Place 5 all make it probable, that this very Inlet j or the broken Lands near, was the Place where the Misfortune happened. It was there- fore more prudent^ not to hazard all, but to de- fer the proceeding amongft fuch Lands, to a more feafonable Opportunity, and to purfue at jjrefent Cwhat was more fuiting with the Time of the Year) the going to Winter Qiiarters, and preparing for Wintering* What Was obferved upon Survey amongft thefe tery broken Lands the next Year-, was an Evi- dence afterwards of the good Judgment with which anOppofition was made. For we were fenfible upon fuch Survey, that had we ventured in with the Lands, agreeable to the Propofal, there was the highcft Probability, had the Weather been any otherwife then moderate, wemufthave perilhed. The Winter was not far off i The Ships muli go to the South Part of the Bay, to feek a Har- bour, if a convenient Harbour was not found in Port Nelfon River, they would then be obliged to go to Churchill, the Ships were to be unrigged, the Stores taken out. Houfes built for wintering* ■ f-; ,'■■ and Fuel provided. All which would be a Work of fowc Timci and if left until the Winter began, would Difcovery tf a 'North-Weft Pajfage. 1 05 would be attended with fome Difficulties •, if the Auguft. Harbouring the Ships was left until that Time, it would be to the great Hazard of them both. But the beft Judgment of what was the right Time for going to Wintering, is to be deduced from obferving what hath been done by others in the like Cafe ; and what was confequent on their Proceedings. Hudfon, Button^ Monk, and James, all win- tered. Hudfon, who wintered in a low Latitude in the South Part of the Bay, harboured his Ship the Beginning of November, and fhe was froze up the tenth. ^ It caufed great Labour to buildaHoufe, wh^chthey did not afterwards in- habit, and fuflfered very much. ^ S'w Thomas Buiton having been drove to the Southward by a Storm, and conftrained to look for a Harbour, got into a Creek on the North Side of Port Nelfoft River (fo named by him after his Mafter, whom he buried there) on the 13th of Jugufi, to re- pair fome LofTes •, after that Time came on the new Winter, with much ftormy Weather-, as he was conftrained to winter there, wintering in his Ship, he fuffering very much according to Capt. Fox's Account, for Want of a proper Provifion of Fuel. Captain Monk wintered at Churchill, La- titude 59. as is evident not only from the Can- non found there, marked with King Chrijiianus'a Mark C4. «^ But from the Relation of theVoyage, a Prkkers Account of HuMtts Voyage, North-Weft. Fcx P. 79. b North-Welt, /o/ P. ii8. p. 248. >= ^2i Vol. K)i Chur.biWs, Voyage*. An Account o! Gruniur.d, W 475. p which ' t •lb 1^ • •! '*■ ■^.♦. :!? w ^ 'f-' p:-«i ■f . Auguft. A VoYAG E forihe which mentions this People's providing Wood - whereas in Latitude e^"", 20". the Place faid to be his Wintering-Place, there is no Wood, and, on the other Hand at Churchill, there was at that Time plenty of Wood, alfo at the firft fettling o Churchill they found Hutts with Human Bones in them, which agrees with the Relation, that fuch of Monk's People as died were forced to be left above Ground, for Want of Strength in the others to bury them. Captain Monk harboured his Ship the feventh of September, be- behind fome Rocks in a Bay at the Entrance of a River (which Defcription agrees alfo with Churchill,) They afterwards built themfelves ttuts, and provided Fuel againft the Winter. And the principal Caufe of the Mortality which happened (only himfelf and two more being left alive out of fixty-five Perfons) was their Want of Provifion to fupport themfelves with, in the Se- verity of the Seafon. » Captain James began his Wintering the fourth of O^ober at Charlton Ifland, by his own Obfervation Latitude 52.00. his Ship in great Hazard, and on the twenty-ninth of November, he funk his Ship as the moft effec- tual Way of fecuring her, he and his People fuffering a great Fatigue in getting the Pro- vifions and Neceflaries Afhore, and providing H.oufes, ^c. In the Travels of the MiJJioners, there is an Account by Father Gabriel Mar eft, a Jefuit, of the Difficulties they met with to har- * Voyage of Captain James, P. 45." bour ; Wood } 2 faid to >od, and, : was at I fettling Human delation, e forced Strength n Monk ber, be- trance of Ifo with emfelves Winter, ty which eing left Want of I the Se- egan his Charlton 52. 00. ty-ninth ft efFec- People le Pro- oviding 'jfionerSy 'areft^ a to har- bour Difcovery of a Nortb-Wefi PaJJage. 1O7 bour two Ships -, the one in Hays*& River by Tork- Auguft. Fortf in Hudfou\ Bay, which the French call St. Terefa •, and to harbour the other Ship in Port Nelfon River, by the French, called Bourbon River. This was upon an Expedition of the French to take Tork Fort, in the Year 1694, he fays (the Ship he was Aboard of having entered Hays's River) the thirtieth of September, " W^c " could not poffibly advance, on the firft of " OSiober we continued in the fame Condition, the Wind being ftill contrary, our Veffel aground at low Water, and there being no PolTibility of Tacking ; in the mean Time, the Wind, the Cold, and Ice increafed every Day i we were within a League of the Place ** where we were to land, and in Danger of not being able to reach it. On the fecond of October (they having pafled the Fadtory, and advanced higher up the Night before) our Ship, fays the Father, had like to have pe- " rilhed. As we were making ready, and ** were in Hopes to be very foon in the Port, " which we could almoft reach, a great Cloud " of Snow took away from us the Sight of the " Land, and a ftrong Guft of Wind at N. W, " caft us on a Shoal where we ftuck at high Water, there we had a difmal Night ; about ten the faid Night, the Ice carried by the Stream, and pulhed on by the Wind, began to beat againft our Ship with fuch a dreadful Force and Noife, that it might have been htard a League off, which Battery lafted four <( (C (( (( {( (t 4( IC (C i( i( 4( 4( < / 4( P 2 «( or ^ « ,« .r -Vt. I iPI ii^ Augaft. c< <( (( cc ( I j4 Vo y a g e yi t\ ^iB :■•♦'• ^ if i: !:!.;■ iio -rf V o Y A G E for the Auguft. for preferring Port Nelfen to Churchill were, be- cause that River broke up fome Weeks fooner than the River at Churchill. Port Ntlfon is in a better Climate, a Country more abounding with Game, greater Plenty of Wood, and, being near Terk Fort, which is the principal Fadory of the Hudfon's Bay Company, there would be a Probability of getting more Indians there to hunt for us than wc fhould at Churchill^ being an in- ferior Fadtory. In neither of thefc Councils had it been put as a Queftion, whether it would be proper to return to England', for there was a fine Inlet, and every one knew from the Trial which had been made in the Boat of the Tide, that a Tide came round the Weft End of Mtfr^/tf Ifland, which they in- ferred was from Inlets to N. W. of the Ifland j and comparing the Obfervafions thofe in the Boat* had made of the Tides when to Southward of the Ifland, and what had been experienced on board the Ships when alfo to Southward of fuch Ifland, the Ships having been carried the 1 5th at Night, then a Calm, greatly to the Eaftward by the Flood-Tide, concluded, that there was (befides that Weftern Tide round the Ifland, and from the Inlets to N. W.; a Weftern Tide likewife out of this Inlet, which they had difcovered to South- Weftward or Rankin's Inlet, and that thefe Tides could be no other than from a Weftern Ocean •, therefore, it would be better lib xj\. xvaui %r\%T 4*.r^ LU pro- Difcovery of a Nortb-Wejt Paffage. i it proceed in Spring ; whereas, if wc returned to Auguft. England, we might be as late in the following Year as wc were in this ; fo equally unable to proceed then as we were now. Thefe feemed to be the Reafons which were conclufive with every one for Wintering, as not the leaft Queftion was made about it, as to whe- ther it was not properer to return to England than winter here. There was one Objedion ftarted as to Wintering, but that was upon a different Account, as that it would not be proper to win- ter, the People not having fuitable Cloathing ; and this was an Objection ftarted by one Perfon only. About One in the Morning, Jugufi the Twcnty.fixth, the Tiae making down, both»6th. Ships came to an Anchor at the Entrance of Hays\ River, in five Fathom, Water ; and the Noon before we had anchored off Port Nel- fon Shoals, the firft anchoring fince our leaving the Orkneys on the Twelfth oijme -, having had but few Hours between the Seventeenth of this Inftant, the Time we bore away for Winter- Quarters, and the Time of our anchoring, either of funfhiny and clear, or moderate Weather ; moftly cloudy and hazy. Rain and Sleet, with feme Snow, ftrong Winds, or Squally ; feeing feveral Flights of Plover and Geefe making to the Southward, the Signs of an approaching Winter in th^ Parts we were pafiing by ; but when , ,•: ' '• ■ « " ,' 1 ' *■-.••.'.. I* -i 't:'. 112 ji V OY AGE for t/je Auguft. when we came near to the Land to the South- ward, feeing a Number of white Whales, con- cluded Winter would not yet begin there. It was very cold all our Way down the Bay, but on our Approach to the Land we had it temperate. The Sea in our Paffage down was of various Colours. ifltf!! •■ H The Place of our Anchoring was in a Bay, into which there fell two great Rivers (Port Nel- fon River, and, to the Southward of that, Hap'i River) which Riv'ers are parted from each other by a low Slip of Land, on which is Tork Fort Fadtory ; and this Land, being an Ifland, is called Hays's Ifland. The Channels of thefe RU vers, after they are pafled Hays'* s Ifland, are kept feparate, until they have run fome Dift:ance into this Bay by Shoals, one of which begins at the Foot of Hays's Ifland, and is dry at Low- Water j other Shoals join that, which are covered at all Times with Water. Thefe Shoals run to the Northward more than three Leagues. The N. of Hays's Ifland is Lat. 570 30". The N. E. Point of this Bay, where it empties into Hudfon's Bay, which is Cape 'Tatnam, is in Lat. 57°. 48" Long. 910 30". The other Point to N. W. of this Bay, which is Port Nelfon Shoals, is in Lat. 580. 00. Long. 020. 40". Thofe Channels, \vhilc divided, are not two Leagues dift:ant from each other in the widefl: Parts of the Shoals, with Cuts through as would admit Ships to pafs from one River to the other. ForS Difcovery of a North-Weji Pajfage, Port Nelfon River v/as at firft difcovered byAuguft. Sir Thomas Button^ and named after his Ma- fler, as mentioned, who died there. "Capt. Fox and '' Capt. James were both here. Capt. Fo-x was firft, and landed, naming the Land New Torkjhire. Was alfo at the Spot where Sir Thomas had wintered, and finding a Crofs which had been ereded by Sir Thomas^ but now fallen. Or pulled down, with the Infcription rafed out, he caufed the Crofs to be new raifcd, and a Piece of Lead nailed on, with an Infcription thereon, purporting, Capt. Fox fuppofed that Sir Tho- mas had firft ereded fuch Crofs, and it was now raifed again by him, in Right and PofTefiion of his Sovereign, Auguft 15, in the Year 1634. Capt James, though not adioar, named this Land the Principality oi Wales, and in the Charts it is called New South- Wales. The French called Port Nelfon KwQV ihtKivtv Bourbon, as mentioned j and Hays' & River, which they were the ftift Dif- coverers of, they named St. Terefa, becaufe the Difcoverer's Wife bore the Name of that Saint. The Morning of the 26th, after Sun-rife, was extreamly pleafant -, and the barren Views we had been fo long entertained with, greatly contributed to make the Land, which we now lay about a Mile and Half off, to look the more agreeable, low Land, with Woods, at fome Diftance from the Shore, looking pleafantly green. Between » North- Weft, Fox, p. 2 17. •• Capt. Jamti's Vojase for 'iifcovering a PalTage to iLe South Sea, p- 25. Q the , ' . " ?•> ' f *■ ill -l.r ■■f.v ki^ I ... " ■ ' V '.' " 1^ l^iuili* 114 ^ V OY A G E for the Awguft. the Woods and Shore a low Marfh. About Six Capt. Sntftb went off in his Pinnace, attended by Gapt. Moor'» Mate in the Dobbs*s Pinnace, to fearch for the Spot where the Ships were to an^ chor, while a Harbour was fearched for ; being to be followed by the Ships, with the Long-boats a-head to found, when the Tide fliould make i the Channel being fliallow and difficult, not to be attempted by thofe who do not know it, as a Miftake may be the Lofs of a Ship, and a Know- ledge of the Channel fome Years before will not do for aTime after, by reafon that the Channel fo often alters from the Shifting of the Shoals ; which Altering of the Channel greatly contributes to the Security of the Fadory a^ainft the Enemy, The Pinnaces lay upon the Spot where the Ships were to anchor, and at Four in the After- noon the California arrived there. The Dolfh touching the Ground about Three, ftruck ; and the Tide being on the Turn, could not, in Spite of all Endeavpurs, both Long-Boats being fent to ^ffift her, get off that Tide. We ''came into this Road with our Enfign out •, and on our Anchoring, faluted the Fadory at about feven Miles off, with feven Guns ; which was taken no Notice off; but while we were in our Paffao-e up, the Fadory fired a fingle Gun. which wc fuppofed to be, as it was, an Alarm-Gun for their People to come in. About Five we dif. cerned their Boat bufy in finking or taking ud a foupie of Buoys j and when that was done, they tytfcvoery of d Horih-tVefi Pafage: 1 1 5 canrte towards the Ship to cut down a Beacon that Auguft. Was fet upon a Pile of Stones at the Edge of the large Shoal before-mentioned to the Northward of Hays*% Ifland, and which dried at Low Wa- ter, and which the Ship now lay off of^ and this Beacon was to fhew the Spot we were then at Anchor upon. Capt. Smith j apprehending this, manned his Pinnace with four Oars, and put in only two Sitters, that thofe in the Factory Boat might not apprehend any Annoyance j giv- ing Orders to his People to defire thofe in the Fadory Boat not to cut the Beacon down until the other Ship came up. But by the Time that Capt. ^w///^'s Boat joined the Factory Boatj two of the Fadory People were got on Shore on the Pile of Stones 5 and thofe in the Boat being de- fired not to let them cut down the Beacon, they faid it was the Governor''^ Orders. Being ask'd if they knew who we were, one replied^ Yes^ I knew it to be Capt. Smith, when I came near enough to fee him ; and it being faid to thatj Why do you cut down the Beacon then ? The Anfwer was. It is the Governor'' s Order, and how did we know but you were French ? You have been in the Offing thefe three or four Days fireing of Guns * we have been forced to keep half Watch every Night. Now it was no way probable, whatever their Fears might prefent to them, that the French would make their Signals for Tacking or Lying by (which was the Mean- ing of the Guns iiieii between the two Ships, and which they heard) when they were fo near ^'^ ilf' -'♦V'^j CL2 their 4 '<■ ■ ; ? 1 6 -^ V OY AG ^ for the Auguft. their Enemies Coaft. Nor would the Governor, had he not been well fatisfied who we were, be- fore they came with their Boat to have a plain View of the Ship, to inform them, have fent them on fuch an Expedition as the Cutting down a Beacon within Piftol-Shot of an Enemy*s Ship of Force. ■■''«(i '-;;■■* ■ };,'•/, ^ ; ■ •II 1 I 1 h 1 ,1 Vm i It was, as we then fuppofed, and afterwards' learned, the Eflfed: of Paffion. The Indians who firft faw us faid there were four Ships, two great ones and two little ones. The little ones were the Long-Boats, which loomed by their Fears and the Weather to be no lefs than Bombketches, the Ships two Men of War. The Difcoverers were known to be two Ships only; here were four, fo it could not be them. The Alarm was fent into the Country for all the Faftory People to come Home, every thing prepared for De- fence, when in the Interim the Governor had certain Intelligence of our being Friends, and angry at the Surprize we had put him into, to vent his Spleen, iffued thefe Orders for taking up the Buoys, and cutting down the Beacon i and at this thofe in the Fadory Boat feemed to hint, when they asked the People in Capt. Smith's Boat (who were defiring them not to cut down the Beacon) why then, fay the Fadory People, had there not been a Boat fent up to the Gover- nor P Which was excufed by faying, that the Long-Boat was fent to Capt. A^oor's Afliftance, and there was but the Pinnace bdides ; but in thc Morar Difcovery of a North-Wefi Paffage. 1 17 Morning a Boat would be fent up. This Con- Auguft. verfation was, while the two Men on Shore on the Pile of Stones were bufy in cutting down the Beacon ; and when they finiihed their Work, they returned to the Boat, and rowed away ; having been firft defired to call aboard the Ship, which they excufed themfelves from, with faying they had not Time. ^rMA We learned from them, that the Hudfon's Bay Ships, bound for that Fort, had been for fome Days gone for England : That the Hudfon's Bay Ships, whom we had parted with on the feven- teenth of June at Night, had not entered the Streights until nine Days after us, but had been more fortunate in pafllng them, having never made faft to Ice but once, that fomewhere about Manfell Ifland. Capt. Smith's Boat returned Aboard with the Beacon in Tow, being a fine ftraight Piece of Pine, with a good Brufii or Broom at the End. We had the Satisfadlion of hearing that Night of the Bobbs being fafe, being on a hard Ground and upright, though it was dry all about her ; they had been Having the Water aboard her, in order to lighten her aft, not doubting to get off the next Tide. Capt. Smith alfo promifed to hoift two Lights at his Fore-topfail Yard-arm, one at each Extreme, as a Dire6tion for her in the Night. The ii8 A Voyage for the I 111 !'*!, ,. Angaft27. The Dohbs got off in the Night, but did not join us. Next Morning Capt. Smith went down to bring her up, and about twelve the Dobbs came to an Anchor, juft aftern of the California ; then faluted ihe Fadtory wii*- -•; Guns, which were notanfwered bytheFac . * but in the Morn- ing the Faftory had fired three fingle Guns, and at a Diftance of Time the one from the other, though on what Account we could not tell. "'i';:"' I •: In the Afternoon a Boat arriving from the Fadory, thofe in her bringing a Letter from the Governor^ a Council was called on Board of the Dobbsy to confider of fuch Letter ; wherein the Governor tells the Commanders, not to come higher with the Ships at their Peril, unlefs (hew- ing a proper Authority from the Government, or the Company trading in thofe Parts. As to the Hudfon*s Bay Company, the Captains had no Authority from them -, what they had from the Aft of Parliament made in Favour of this Ex- pedition no one could tell, not having it with them ; and as to any other Authority, no one of the Council knew whereto feek it, until fhewn by Capt. Smith, in a Claufe of the Commiffions which both Ships had as Privateers, and by which they had a Right to any Affiftance that that Port could fupply them with, and by Confequence, could not be oppofed in going to harbour where the Commanders pleafed ; though it was not the Intention that the Ships ftiould go higher up, being Difcovery of a Nortb-WeftlPaJfage, 1 19 being only to wait there, where they were at An- Auguft. chor, until a Harbour was found in Port Nelfon River. A Letter was wrote, and two Perfons, one from e^ch Ship, went with it, carrying alfo the two Privateer Commiffions. They went in the Fadory Boat, one of the Ship's Boats attending, to bring them back. The Governor fired twice or thrice while they were on their Way, which was a private Signal between him and his People. The two Deputies being landed three Miles fhort of the Fadtory, had a very dirty muddy Walk, and, when arrived, as indifferent a Reception ; which being complained of, the People at the Fadory replied, that the Example had been fet by the Treatment their People received when Aboard Capt. Moor. The Deputies returned about Twelve at Night, with a Letter from the Governor and Council, whereby he invites the Captains to the Fadory, that he might know their Wants, and confult with refped to their Wintering, What He meant by knowing their Wants, and another Exprefllon in his Letter, calling the Ships his Majefty's Ships, I never underftood, un^efs led into it by fome Exprefllon in the Letter the Deputies carried -, 3 Copy of which I never faw, Capt. Moor at all Times re- fufing to give one to Capt. Smith, The next Morning Juguft the Twenty- eighth, ^ath. the Long-Boat of the Caiifornia^ and the Pinnace belongs iA ■f.,;.. III}:. I2D ji Voyage for the Auguft. belonging to the Dobbs^ fet out to fearch for a Channel through the Shoals or Flats to Port Nel- fon River, and to return by the next Tide. The ttvo Captains went up to the Fadory, where the Governor declared, that the Ships ihould not come above the Fadory, and that if they at- tempted it, he would fire at them -, but that the Boats might. Capt. Smith defied him, and told him, that if he fhould fire at his Ship he would return it: And the Governor being alkcd as to his giving his Advice as to a proper Place to winter in, agreeable to his Letter, faid, he muft be excufed -, the Governor looking on it as a certain Confequence, that if the Ships came above the Faftory, they would intercept his Trade, the major Part of which would be come down that River before the Ships could get out ; but, as already mentioned, Capt. Smith had no Thoughts at that Time but of Wintering in Port Nelfon, fo not of going above the Fadory •, but would not be prevented by the Governor if he thought it neceffary. The Boats returned from the Search that Even- ing, thofe in them giving an Account that there was a Channel through the Flats, though not a great Depth of Water, yet a Sufficiency, and a fine Channel when in Port Nelfou River. Capt. Moor and Capt. Smith fet out the next Morning, with both Ships Long-Boats and Pinnaces, to take a better Survey of fuch Channel, and find a Harbour on the North Side o^ Port Nelfon River, where i ri' Difcoi !ry of a North-Wejl Pajfage. 1 2 1 where they might go free from the Ice and the Au^uft. Spring Deluge, which fometimes happens, occa- fioned by the Suddennefs of the Thaw, and the Stoppage of the Ice, with terrible Accounts of which Deluges the People at the Fadlory had entertained our Men, who went with the Cap- tains to the Factory the Day before ; telling them, as though it was certainly confequent, Ihould the Ships winter above the Fad:ory, of their having a Deluge, as there was one annually above the Faftory, no Spring without. The Captains were Abroad all that Night, but the ^jext Afternoon, 3otb. about four, we faw the Boats coming Soon after Sun-fet a Canoe came and lay off a fmall Diftance from the Ship, thofe in her haling us in Englijhy with, IVhat Chear ? They were anfwered, and three Indians came, with their Canoe, Alongfide, telling us, they had Geefe, and when Aboard, brought thrre out of a large greafy Leather Satchel, picked and drefled ; for which they had a Bottle of Indian Brandy, the Name given for two Thirds of Brandy, and one of Water. Said, that they were ztAlbany, did not like the People there, fo were come here, and now they were going from hence Southward, in Purfuit of Winter-Quarters, with their Families •, for they had been imployed by the Governor to flioot Geefe, but the Geefe not coming in Plenty, and there not being a fufficient Employ, he had dis- charged them. Capt. Smith hearing this when he came Aboard, agreed with them to come and Ihoot all Winter, on fuch Terms R they ap- proved 3 :•#, *H JiM'i f.„. ftt hi: Vr l^^;:*." AV OY AC ^ for the proved; though they faid, they muft firft g<3i Southward, and they would foon return j and if they met any of their Friends, as they probably might, they would bring them with them to hunt. They were alfo defired to bring Veiiifon, which they promifed, on fuch Terms as was great for them, a Buck for two Bottles of Brandy. They had Pipes and Tobacco given them, with Liquor, and whatever was thought would pleafe, they behaving very civilly on their Part -, ftaid all Night, lying on the Deck, and until the After- noon of the next Day, feeding on Grout, which is Oatmeal, boiled to a Thicknefs, fweetened with Molofius. They were three young Fellows, one much fuperior to the other two, and better babited, the others very meanly. In the After- noon they went afhore in the Boats, as there was ? fmall Sea, the Canoe towing after, all the Boats going in Search of a Harbour in Harp River, or on tne Shore to Eaftward -, what had been done the three Days before with fo much Fatigue, and the Night the Captains were out at Port Nelfon^ fpending it on the Ground, with only a Fire be- fore them, to protedt them from the Cold, and Mufhettoes, turning out to no Etfeft, by the ob- ftinate Refolution of Capt. Moor, that his Ship lliould not go through the Channel which they had foiind, though Capt. Smith offered to carry his Ship Hrft, and fetch the Bohbs afterwards. Capt. Moor was alfo determined that his Ship Ihould not return over the Shoals the Way (he had come in Until next Year , to proceea upon the lJifcovery» l^ifcpvtry of a North-Wefl Pajjap, 1^3 and not that Year to enter Port 'Helfon River by Auguft. the Mouth of it. And Capt. Smithy though he was fenfible how good a Harbour they had tound on the North Shore of Port Nelfon River, ufually called GuillanC^ Creek, how much better it would be Wintering under this Shore than any where in Hayj's River, was alfo fenfible they were likely to get out fooner in the Year, and fhould have the Governor of York Fort on better Terms than at any other Place, as here they could have a greaterlntercourfe with the/»^w«j,(aThing which the Governor fo much teared) than any where elfe ; yet, as no Arguments could prevail with Capt. MooTy he was forced to comply, thinking it beft that the Ships (hould not feparate. While the Indians Were Aboard, there came feme of the Fadlory People Alongfide, and, after much Perfwafion, were prevailed with to come Aboard, making but a Ihort Stay, pretending, that the Governor knew nothing of this their Vi- fit i though it was rather fufpefted they came to learn what had been done in the lalt: Voyage made in the Boats. When the Boats fet out to fearch for a Har- bour, the thirty-firft in the Afternoon, in Hays\ P^ River, it was agreed that Capt. Moor fhould go with his Boats above the Fadtory, and Capt, Smith to fearch for a Creek he had heard of on the Eaftcrn Shore \ but there was fo foon a Shal- lowing of the Water as Capt. Smith approached R 2 that / * ■ i' ' •;<• mi ■Jr ^H A Vo y A G E Ur the Augull. that Shore, that he was fenfible no Ship could (land ; ", in for a Harbour there •, and putting the Indians >, .. into their Canoe, faw them arrive fatb, take it on their Shoulders, and walk over Land. The Boats then w. re ordered to follow Capt. Moor^ who was gone above the Fadory •, upon our coming near which, the Governor fired a Shot, as we fuppofed to bring us to ♦, upon which Capt. Smith went afhore with one of the Boats, fending the other, as intended, after Capt. Moor. The Governor excufed his firing, with faying, it was a Signal tor the Churchill Sloop to come in, which he thought he efpied in the Offing, and might be fearful to venture in, on feeing our two Ships. The Faftory is placed about three Miles from the Nortli End of the IQand, and, on the Eaftern Side, Hays' % River running clofe before it •, which River, and Port Nelfon, glide in one, until fepa- rated by this Ifland ; then forming two Rivers, one on each Side the Illand, as mentioned. The Ifland but low Land, and, from the Point of the Ifland to the Fadory, a flat, gravel, and muddy Shore, with a Bank within of a biuifli Marie, well covered with Poplar, Pine, and Alder ; the Yellow of whofe Flower, mixed with the Grceu of the Fir and Poplar, looked pleafanter than any Thing that could be expected to be found in thefe Parts. I' 1 t?^ Sept The next Day, September the firfl:, the Cali- fornia (thofc in the Boat having difcovered there • . was Difcovery of a North-Weft 1*011 age, 125 was a Channel fome Way above the Faftory, tho' September, intrici te, and Capt. Moor giving an Account of a Creek which would be fuitable) weighed, and ftood nearer to the Fadlory, there to lighten \ which was imrnediately began upon. The next Morning, September the fecond, the 2d Governor fent a Meflage, defiring Capt. Smith to fend his Boat, with Somebody, to let him know where he intended to lay his Ship. This Meflage was fucceeded by a Letter brought by fome from the Factory, in which the Governor mentions, if we would not winter the Ships above a Place there mentioned, and below the Faftory, he would aflift us as far as lay in his Power, and was con- fident with his Orders from the Company. The Perfon who brought the Meflage had been many Years here, fo it might be prefumed, from his Experience, that he well know the Na- ture of the Country. Under that Pretence he pointed out a Place as from his own Obfervation, fit for our Wintering, which was at the Extreme of the Ifland, and called, the Point of Marjh^ aflerting it better than any Place above the Fac- tory •, as no Accident could be from the breaking up of the Ice, which there always p-oes away af- ter an eafy Manner, nor no Fear fror** a Deluge •, and both one and the other might be expeded, to the Deftrudion of the Ships, in Wintering any where above the Factory. It • ..>1! ": '-■-'■■A .Ti • t -,• . Kit • • *t *' '■h The xt6 jiVoTtAGt firik .t4 ■V l\ lis jl' •,'UIKL'ii jii Si: September. The Meflage and Letter Capt. Smith anfwerecJi for the prefent, with faying, he would fpeak to Capt. Moer^ whom he expecte^' would bring up his Ship that Afternoon j then he would fend the Governor an Anfwer. But, prevented by the Weather^ it was the next Morning before the 3(1 Dohbs could join us ; and that Afternoon the Point of Marjh was viewed by the Captains and the whole Council ; but gave fo little Satisfac- tion, that Capt, Smithy and fome others^ (though Capt. Msor was willing to acquiefce with it, as a proper Place for laying the Ships) that, on the next Morning, September^ fourth, the two Cap- tains fet out in their Boats, to fearch for another 4th Harbaur, firft fending the Govermr an Anfwer to his Letter, which I never faw a Copy of, it being refufed Capt. Stniih ; but, by the Report of the Perfon who carried it, the Governor ex- prcffed hinjfelf well fatisfied, promifed hisAffift^ ance, and that agreeable to Orders received from the Hudfon\ Bay Company. At twelve that Night the Captains returned* having cmploy^xi themfelves in furveying the Creeks^ and obferving the Tides 5 and next Morn- ing the Ships got under Way, in order to proceed nearer the Fadtory, and within the Land. In or- j>t1i der to (hew the Channel, (for the Dircaion of which two Beacons were eredcd^ both noM-* cut down by the Governor's Orders,; two Peopk were fent, one with a Jack, another with a Pendant, to Di/covery of a Nortb-Weji Paffage. itf to ftand at the Spots where thofe Beacons had Sepcembcr* been. The Tide being down, we cime to ati Anchor Ihort of the Place intended \ grounded at low Watei:, in fuch a Manner as it was feared the Ship wouW receive a great Damage, Having again altered our Station, we h^d anotherVifitfrom fome of the Faftorjr j and Capt. Sntitb and Capt. Moor going up in the Boat, the GovernQf fired a Shot, which was obferved byfeveral to pitch in the Sand, The Factory People being asked. If they came on Byfinefs ? They faid. No, they only came to convcrfe Tete a tete \ and as to the Shot no one ever knew what was meant, Capt. Smithy who was bent on Wintering above the Fadtory, as he could not winter at Port NelfoHy not thinking it worth his Time to inquire. That Night the Ship was moved to the Birth intended for her in the Morning. The next Day both the Captains fet out again, g {laying out all that Night, which they fpent in the Woods by a Fire, and at this Time concluded on a Place for Wintering. The People aboard the California were imployed in the Interim iit clearing a high Plot of Ground afhore, carrying Stores there, and ereding a Tent with Sails to keep fuch Stores from the Weather ; built alfo a Sail- Tent for two Land-men to watch in, who alfo took it by Turns to go a Shooting, and from them we had a fm«U Supply of Geefe, Pwcks, and Plover, 45 pill Qn . "I'M"' 'ill! mm •■■'A '!.!■■>! ;. " ■« ,ii 12S [^Voyage for the September. On the Tenth the California being lightened, and in Part unrigged, went up a-brcaft of the Factory, faluting the Governor with feven Guns, which Salute was not anrwcred until two Hours after ; expecting the Dobbs who touched in com- ing up, and did not get off that Tide. The Governor alfo made a Prefent in the Evening of ten frefli Geefe, with a Sallad of Lettuce and CreiTes *, both the Lettuce and Crefles very good of the Kind. The Situation of the Fadory is a clear Space made in the Woods, which furround it on three Sides, the Factory having an open Front to the Water, from which it Hands a fmall Diftance within the Bank •, to the North and Eaftward 9)vered with a good Battery, and to the South-Eaft is a Dock for building or repairing either Sloops ftr Boats •, behind the Battery, and between that and the Dock, there is a Space of Land which they call the Plantation, and here the Indians who come to the Fadory pitch their Tents -, and there is generally a Tent or two of old and infirm Indians, both Men and Women, who get their Maintenance from the Fadory. This Part, which is on the Back of the Battery and Dock, and cal- led the Plantation, is feparated from the Fadory by two Rows of high Paliffadcs, between the firil of which and the fecond, are Store-houfes, the Cookery, and fome Work-{hops, low built, and fo olaced as they would be of little Service to an Enemy to cover an Attack of the Place. Within the Bifcffoery of a Nortb-Wefl Taffage, 1 29 the inner Paliflades are fmall Spots of Turnips, September. Collards, Sallads, and other Garden StufF, be- longing to the Governor and Officers. From the Plantation, or from the firft Entering of the Paliffades to the Faftory, you walk on a wooden Platform. The Fadory itfelf is a fquare Fort, having four Baftions, two Stories high, with a Platform on t|ie Top leaded, and a Parapet, where they have fome Cannon. The Fadory is of Wood, built of large Logs of Trees, plained on three Sides, laid one on the other, and pegg*d together with large wooden Pins -, to the Front they put a plain Side of the Logs, and the Front is painted white. In the Center of each Curtain there projects in the fecond Story a clofe Lanthern, a half Circle ; in which nor in any Part of the Baftions are there any Ports for Cannon, but Loops for fmall Arms. When you go into the Factory there is a handfome Area ; the Fac- tory is much handfomer within than on the Out- fide. • . In the upper Story of the South-Eaft Baftion is the Governor's Apartment, to which there is a handfome Flight of wooden Steps out of the Area. His Apartment confifts of four Rooms, with a Fire-Place in the krgeft ; the Rooms wainfcotted, and neatly fitted up. Under the Governor's Apartment is the common Room for the Deputy-Governor and principal Handicrafts, as the Ship and Houfe-Carpenter, and others, who compofe the Governor's Mefs •, in which is S al^rge X-'m ,t..tti' •* 11 ill Mi :;"'.v| ■■;j '; V ■ ■■»' ■:■■::■!! ill I ,'■»■ *^ K ."- am ti - f ■'; 130 ji V or Aomffr fbe September, a large brick Stove erefted for warming both rfiij and the Governor's Apartment. Afide this Room arc there feveral Cabins, - in each of which there is a Bed-place, and hefides Room for four or five People to fit comrnQdioufiy, and every Cabin hath a Light into it. In th« North-Eaft Baftion, in the lower Part, is alfo a common Room, with a Stove of Brick for warm- ing the Apartments -, and in this Baftion are lodged the Steward and Cooky and all others (excepting the Surgeon) who are not of the Go- vernor's Mefs. The other two Baftions, and the Curtains, are divided into Store^houfes, a Tradr ing-room, a Magazine, ^c. ; The Building hath but a mean Appearance on the < rfide, but it is warni and convenient for the Purpofe it is built for, and the Workmanfhip good of the Kind. From the Platform on the Top of the Fadory you have a Profped over the Woods a long Way, feeing Hills to the South- Eaft, which are about twenty, or five-and-twentj^ Miles diftant. Between which the Country is all low and flat; fq is alfo the Ifland on which the Factory ftands, Thefe Hills are the Spots to form a right Judgment of the Climate of this Country •, but what is perceived in that refped at the Fadory, or within ten Miles round it, or where thofe who belonged to the Ships were obliged to winter, we may reafonably fuppofe bears no more Analnorv wirh HipPllmat^ of fhe * to fecure it during the Winter j on which they proceeded very flowly, having after the firft three Feet, which was a kind of Loam^ met with a frozen Part, that continued as low as they dug. It looked like a lead -coloured fleaky Stone, chip* ped and flew like it when broke by the Pick-axe 1 taken in the Hand was heavy, and cold as a Piece of Ice J but then it foon thawed or crumbled *, the Particles of Sand of which it was compofed quick* ly feparating from each other. The Wood which is on the three Sides of the Fadbory, and fo of the Woods of the whole Ifland, is of Pine and Juniper* both but fmall, the Pine-Trees twenty to thirty Feet high, and abour fifteen or twenty Inches round ; the Juniper-Trees not above thirteen or fourteen Feet high •, and the Trees grow at fuch a Diftance from each other* as the Woods arc no way thick. There is alfo Poplar and Alder, with Bulhes and thick S 2 Bram- »iV''.', -An V .■*"< \v' .' '■ -. -Mi,- l^"^* '•-" If r in Wkm ap. i;i.i|ii-5 il '•^'•-^ ■' ffl r^Wli i ^'"^ '^-^ ■ ■ ^^^HkJ P » '■;■'■*" |l ■.■■>'i|. ^^^kH i ^Ml 1 P3l ?;-( '■•' I ' V ■ '1 ^^mt i ■■' '' ■" lit I ii."^:i ^■R [If ';^: ^^hPf l'^' 'vI ^^Kmm ^^^^U^ u " ' i . a-' \ ^^^R ^s' ■'!"" ' •, ■■": 4., *■■•;"•* ; ^ . B . , i'' ""l! HE Mk ^WK ^n f^.y-' : ^^^^^ :-f ;■ ■ ^ ^^^^Bh I'ii'ir'.'' 1' ^^BHi ilii il ^^^^M||_ iilMi il 132 A V OY Aoz for the Sep:ember. Brambles, and amongft the Bufhes wild Cur- rants, with white and red Goofeberry-bulhes. which bear a Fruit. There is alfo long Grafs and Mofs, amongft which there grows a great Number of Dewatterberries, and alio Cranberries. The Woods are intermixed with open Plains i the Ground of both very marfhy, and in many Places Bogs. 20th. The California^ it being then the Time of Spring Tides, went from the Fadory Saturday September the twentieth, the Dobbs having gone fome Days before, aflifted by the People of the California -, and at Noon of the twenty-third both Ships were in the Birth intended them for that Seafon, about two hundred Yards up a Nar- row that is about four Miles from the Factory and called Ten Shilling Creek, but not properly, it being a Branch of the great River from which it feparatesjAout thirty Miles above this Entrance where the Ships lay, and by which it rejoins the great River again. It is of the Width of about two Ships at the Entrance, which Width it con- tinues not above a Mile up, then afterwards nar- rowing i hath Banks which are rather fteep, and about fifty Feet in Height, thick covered with Brulh, or Poplar, and Alder, from High- Water M^k to the Top •, and on the Top of the Banks zh Woods of Poplar, Pine, and Juniper, which even at the Time the Ships arrived ther^ iOCnecl very agrcenb/lv snu picaiant« The t)ifcovery of a North-JVefi Paffage, i^^ The Ships being fecured, the building a Houfe, September, and providing Fuel, was next undertaken, but the greateft Part of the Hands were imployedin clearing the Spot the Houfe was to be built on, the providing fitting Timber, carrying it thither, and the Sawing of Plank (being provided with Saws which were brought out of England) upon the thirtieth of September four Pieces of Timber were u laid for the Foundation, and a brick Store begun ^° with Mortar and Bricks with which we were fup- plied by the Governor, who alfo fent the Brick- layer of the Faftory to build it ; but there not being Materials to build two Stoves, the Captains were put under aNeceffity to eredt but one Houfe, and live together. The Houfe was twenty Feet in Length, fix- teen in Breadth, and in Height eighteen, confid- ing of two Stories, built of Logs of Wood laid one on the other, with two Sides plain or fayed, that they might be the clofer i alfo between every two Logs Mofs put, and the Mofs of every Seam daubed on the Outfide with a Loam or Kind of Clay, made up of Water and the Soil, which is almoft all a Marie ; which Loam by freezing be- coming folid, prevents any Wind or Air from pafling between fuch Logs. The Roof, which was (helving, was of Planks tightly caulked, as a Ship's Side. The "upper Story had the two Captains Cabins in Front, and the Landing of the Suiijs. Thefe Cabins opened into a Paflage which m -. y*: :.. -'Hi: ."^'s^lil mil U'^-n " . k ■ "■■■ -*' ' ; 134 AVoYAQ^for the September, which reached the Length of the Houfe of more than three Feet in Width, with a Light at each End ; and on the other Side of fuch Paffage were a Row of Cabins for the Officers of both Ships, half to one, half to the other. The lower Story, in the Middle of which was the Stove, wa&aifo divided, one Side belonging to one Ship's Company, the other to the other. In this Story the Surgpon had his Cabin j the Mate, the Car- penter, the Cook, the Captains Servants, and others whom it was ncceflary to have, for faw ing the Wood for the Stove, lighting the Stove, and other neceffary Jobs, were alfo lodged here. And the Cabins were fo conveniently contrived as fourteen of the CaHforma*% People were en- tertained in the Houfe, exclufive of the Captain- This Story had no Light, but what came in by the Doors (as the upper one had) was floored, and each Captun had a Cellar underneath the Floor. The Stove was fupplied, and lighted, one Week by one Ship's Company, the other Week by the other, (b alternately j and was always in Capt. Smitb*^ Week, lighted in the Morning, ac Noonv and at Night. To fire thefe Stoves they artfully, within the Stove^ in about a Foot of the Stove's Mouth, pile up, one on the other. Pieces of Wood about eighteen Inches in Length, three In Circumference, until the Stove is full to the that Wood* to wh they put a Light, Draught Difcovety tf a North-Wtft P^ffagel 13 5 Draught of the Stove foon makes a Pire. WbenStptenber. the Wood is burnt to a CoaJ, they, with a Rake, bring it forward to the Stove's Mouth •, there beat the Coals fmall, and if there is any fraoak- ing Piece, they pick fuch Bits out, and carry them away \ and a Cover being then put on the Top d the Chimney, of the Outfide the Houfc (there being a Ladder always ready for the going up to do it) by fuch Means the Heat is confined iu the Houfc, and it will be warm fome Hours, The Stove which was firft eredled (but afterwards; being ready to fall, taken down, and a fefs ered' cd) warmed the Houfe to that Degree as to to mek the Candles, and not to admit the Lying covered a Bed j and with the other Stove, if duly lighted, thofe b the Houfe couU have no Scnfc of Cold, The Stove which confumed a vaft Quantity of Fuel, was fupplied from two Piks of Wood, that were procured by the Ships Com- panies, each Ship's Company one, and were placed at a fmail Piftance from the Houfe. At fomeDiftance from the Front of the Houfe, and to the Right of it, was the Cookery, which was, as they term it in thefe Parts, a Log Tent, thefe Tents arc built by putting a Pole, four- teen or fixteen i^'ett long, between two Trees, and as high as it is intended the Tent fliould bej ten or twelve Feet % then leaning againft ' this Pole on both Sides, leaving only three Feet on the South Side, for a Door Way, large Logs of Wood unbarkcd, their Tops meeting above the Polci fi ♦ ,".■<♦ • j» '", ■ ■ ' . ^ ' ( ! ,1, * ** ^ > f J 'J: --'-IS im ' . i;^"'>> Jf '» I" 136 '^ V o Y A G E /or the September* Pole •, and thofe on one Side over-fliooting the . other. At Bottom thefe Logs arc extended the Width they intend the Tent, the Shape of the Tent refembling the Eves of a Houfe j and the Ends are alfo of the fame Kind of Logs as the Sides i the Parting between the Logs being filled with Mofs, and daubed over with a Mixture of the Soil and Water. The Height of the Door is "' four Feet and a Half, and above that, from the Logs, to Right and Left, there is a Crofs- Piece, and another near the Top, upon which Logs are laid, fo to fill up the Vacancy which there is above, between the Logs, to Right and Left of the Door ; but the Crofs-Pieces caufmg thefe Logs to lie hollow, fo as not to touch the Ridge- Pole, and as many Logs on the oppofite Side the Tent being alfo hollow, from the Ridge-Pole, by a Crofs- Piece near the Top, thefe Logs do not meet, but leave an Opening, which anfwers the Purpofe of a Chimney \ and is alfo the only Conveyance by which they have any Light. Un- der this Opening, within Side the Tent, they forrp the Hearth of Earth, about three Feet fquarc, and one high, which they build round with Logs to prevent the Earth mouldering or falling away. At about four Feet from each End of the Tent they place acrofs the Tent, Seat high, a Jarge fquare Log*, and from thefe Logs there is an- other paffes Endways on that Side the Tent, op- pofite to the Door. The Ufe of placing thefe Logs fo, is for Seats round the Fire, and the End Logs alfo keep in the Bed-Cloaths i tor in that JPIIIII{ lf« '^P* .i'. ^ 5 :pt ^J:? k, S ; * If ^ * > M» 1 fc 7 • ' ^ ■••: '* 1 * i • 'i - , ' ^« 'k^ ■tV » 1 ■•4 ' • V 'V, *w * ^ fi "f . -s *» . *■ ' ") •■ V t* '>1/ / *.tf ' •■■ V ^ \ k i. 1* >':■• % '. ' 1 > * J 1 iif % .' I i»j| • * * 1 -il '^ «» .U- \? II thatS andtl each 1 tothf Beds aQuJ and f thcG two ] hind I ,Jl!l I (Jr. 1^' theo ing-I tJpoi othei heys Store V\ Teni ofth the] fame the ( off, aM ailii two mod whi( near Jbifcovery of a Nirth-tf^efi Fa/agc, 1 3f that Space of Time, Wct» between thofe Logf Septwnbw* and the Ends arc the Beds put, two at each End, each Bed holding two, they lying with their Hcadi to the Sides of the Tent, and Feet inwards. The Beds are not laid on the Ground, but they gather a Quantity of fmall Pine-Tops, which is laid firftj and fo raife the Bed about a Foot or more from the Ground. I'he Log which runs between the two Logs and Sideways, marks out a Place be-' hind it for their Chefts, their Kettles, ^c. The Cookery was a Tent of this Kind, as to the outward Form and Hearth, but not the Lodg- ing-Part, the Cooks being lodged in the Houfe. Upon the Left-hand of the Houfe were alfo twd other Log-Tents ; but they were without Chim- heys J one belonging to each Ship •, and were Store-houfcs. While the Hoi^fe Was carrying on, thfee other Tents were alfo built for wintiering thofe People of the California who could not be entertained in the Houfe. Capt. Moor built alfo Teni:. af the fame Kind for his People. The Tents built for the California People were, one about fix Miles off, as being a Sporting Country ; another about a Mile -, and a third about a Mile and half off ; all in pleafant Situations, furrounded with Woods j two of them near to the Ten Shilling Creek ♦, the fiioft diftant one near to a Creek in that Part Which they called Frencb Creek. Their Situation near a Creek is requifite, that Ice may be come T a^ }r huh is^iii. i ^ ♦ It, '« m^ 'i \:^' iil ^3^ A V OY A^ E for the September, at in Winter ; and the Creek ferves as a Road! alfo for the more convenient Draught of Provi- fions in Winter. Thefe Tents are placed ii> Woods, not only for Warmth-fake, but alfo on Account of getting Fuel ^ and therefore choofe fuch Farts in which there is moft dry Wood for Firing (by which is meant fuch Wood as is upon the Decay, but not yet become rottep). They ar^ alfo placed at a Diftance from each other, both on the Account of Hunting, as if two Tentsi near to each other would interfere with each other's Game. Xhey are alfp feparated, that they may not fteal each other's Firing, or cut down each other's Wopd -, for there is a kind of ^Property which follows o,n the Ereding of every Tent ; no Man having a Right to cut a Stick within fuch a Diftance of that Tent, as any one in that Tent can carry Home a Stick from or^ his Shoulder without refting. Three Men, with great Eafe, will finilh one of thefe Tents in a (^ouple of Days. The Houfe was fituate in a Wiiod, about Half a Mile from where the Ships lay -, between which and the Houfe, there was a turning Walk cut through the Wood. The Houfe alfo iook'd ijpon a Creek, afide of which it ftood, on a rifing Ground , at a fmall Diftance from it. In the Creek is Plenty of Water, the Shores broad, and of gra- dual Afcent, covered with Poplar ; and upon the Banks fpirlng Pines, for more than a Mile in Length. TliePlenty o^ Water was npt ipatwral to the place, l^ifcdvery of a Nortb-Weji PaJJage, i 39 Place, but owing to its being kept up by DamS, September, the Work of the Beavers •, which Animals had alfo built a Houfe on the Side of this Cr^^ek-. There were three Cams, tr^o bn brie Side the beaver -hoiife, and another beyond on the other Side. The firft of Which was about a Mile off the Beaver-houfe, and reaches a-crofs almoft from one Bank-edge to the other, running high up the Shore ; and is about fifty-fevenFeet in Length. At each End the Dam begins much like to a Turf, or Clod of Earth turned up •, from thence it is continued level, and in a ftraight Line, for about the Length of nine Feet* with an Increafe in the Width, as it grows in Length ; the Defcent of the Shore being very gradual, the exterior Side of the Dam is not at this Length of nine Feef^ exceeding fix Inches in irleight above the Surfcxce, but the interior Side of the Dam, which is made with a Ibarp Sloap, is about a Foot and Half above the Surface, on that Side. And the Rea- fon why the interior Side of the Dam is fo much deeper than the Exterior, is, that all the Earth Which is heaped up for the Dam is taken from the Infide. The Width of the Top of the Dam is here three Feet. The Dam then turns circular, forming a Figure, whofe chord Line is twenty- feven Feet, and Radius nine Feet. And upbn the Top of the Dam, in the Center of it, is a Gut, of about two Feet and a Half in Width, fix Inches in Depth •, by which the Water conti- tiually falls into a narrow Channel of no more T 2 than ilT^' * V .* « ■,,*,'•*' . • • ' ¥ 'IT 1 r '» , 'P j^. ;; 'i: vl '}■; ' 'I'll f >' k ^J I 4 V J ^' 140 A Voy A oz fur fhe September, than three Feet in Width, that vents itfelf in 7V» Shilling Creek i but the Water which fuppUe§ fuch Cut is within fide, and clofe to the Dam twenty Feet brpad -, the perpendicular Height qf the Dam on the exterior Side, neareft either End of the Cut (through which the Water falls) is two Feet and a half above the Surface, but as it is made wjth a Sloap, the Length of the Sloap is three Feet and a half, the interior Side \s more than two Feet perpendicular, then with a Sloap, which on account of the Ice, I could not mea- fure. Where the Form of the Dam is circular, the Top of the Dam is in that Part about three Feet ^d a half broad, yrith a Sloap inward. Xhere is no lefs Regularity obferved in getting this Earth from the Infide, th^n in the reft of their Workmanfliip •, at either End of the Dam, the Earth is taken up within a Foot of fuch End; ^ the Dam widens and heightens, they go further for the Earth, and where the Dam turned off, or at the End of nine Feet, they had gone five Feet to fetch the Earth, and, to fprm that Part of the Dam where the Cut was, they had gone four and twenty Feet to fetch the Earth, as nearly oppofite to it as the Creek would let them -, in taking up this Earth, they did not work level: At the Part next the Dam, they took moft and deepeft, and next to that lefs, and fo leffened in the Depth in Proportion as they proceeded j that which they fetched it, was only ^hick-S wade of Turf. elf in Tin \ fupplie§ the Dam height of itIierEnd • falls) is but as it ? Slpap is J is more 1 a Sloap, [lot mea- rular, the liree Feet 1 getting e reft of he Dam, ich End-, further )d off, or five Feet lit ot the )nc four IS nearJj? lem ', m k level: noft and lened in ;d} that ts ffoir^ vade Of ry(^<- fAo//!//- ' / A'/// rS^ci^^t^ ^ J) E £ Hi AU W^ %! :::::. B W/c' tU^/^tV 1 ' liL.t^w^if /At' fi^r/fr t^rrai^ Qi.K'A'f ^nne/^ K\i/iff m*i,' in/a Difcovery of a NorthWefi Paffage. 141 Turf. The Space from which they fp take it 19 Septtrabw. circular, and, from the Manner of their taking it lip, lies with a Declivity towards the Dam, By taking the Earth up after this Manner on the Infide, at the fame Time they are building their Dam, they are at Work on their Kcfervoir behind it, When they begin to make their Dam, to which, as already mentioned, they take up the Earth from the Infide the Dam, they do not even at the Beginning or Surface work diredly down, but Hopingly, which makes the Sloap of the interior Side ot the Dam \ and, taking the moft Earth t p clofc to the Infide of the Dam to lay on the Surface, the Part they take this Earth from becomes the lower Part of the Dam 5 and fo the lower Pgrt of the Dam is folid Earth, not to be hurt by any Flood, and the upper Part of the Dam which is the Soil, mixed with Stones, and fmall Sticks of Poplar, about three Fingers thick, the Sticks laid flj^t, and others ftick ob- liquely, and all covered on the Outfide with Turf, prSod, upon which there growsGr^fs, can be only overturned or damaged by the Flood i and, if this happens, there will yet be the lower Part of the Dam that will prevent the Water from run-? ning intirely out, The fecond Dam, or that nearer the Houfe, is made after the fame Manner of the firft juft ^efcribed, but is of greater Width, being eighty- ,.^a||.p,! ;.'■ 5 \H ' ••» 1V'»I \ii' ii' U" "til KfV... imi hi Ht jiVoY ACE for de Septemberi four Feet. The moft obfervable Difference }« the Variety of their Shape, this approaching nearer to a ftraight Line, than the firft Danij and therefore the Water fpreads more behind this fecond Dam, thari behind the firft •, but the firft, being more circular^ coUefts the Water more to a Head j and by the Cut, as was obfervable, there was a freer Pafs for the Water, than by the Cut of the fecond, tho* that was more open, being damaged, and in fome Part broken down •, fd that the fecond Dam cannot overflow the firft, as the firft draws the Water from the fecond, in mort or lefs Proportion as the firft can vent it* The Beaver Houfe is about a quarter of a Mile beyond the fecond Dam, fo fituated as to be furrounded about three Parts with Water, the Other Part joined to the Land 5 it is round with an oval Dome at the Top ; the Heighth above the Surface of the Water is eight Feet, about forty Feet in Diameter, and in Circumference about an hundred and twenty •, and this Propor- tion here between a Diameter and a Circle, how particular foever it may feem, was found to be Fadt, after repeated Meafurings made on the Ice before the Snow was of any Thicknefs; The Part which adjoins to the feank is not made out of the Bank, but of the fame Material*? as the reft ; the Bottom Part of the Houfe is Earth or Soil, with Picres of Wood laid in it^ ot about three Inches Circumference t then a Pncel of Ponlat' Sticks which are laid with one End in the Houfe, and lii Jbifcovety of a North-'WeJi Fajage, 143 jind the other flanting a long Way under Water» September, ihen a Layer of Earth, or Soil again j then Pop- lar Sticks and thefe Layers of Earth, and the Pop- lar Sticks do not exceed eighteen Inches in Height j and, quite from theqi to the Summit of the Houfe, there are Soil Stones and fmall Sticks all artfully put together as in the upper Part of the Pams> and the whole covered with Sods, Jong Grafs growing thereon, and on the upper Part Wil- Ipws. The largeft Wood I faw ufed about the Houfe was two Pieces of Poplar, which was pear the Top, with their largeft End out j the one three Inches, the other two Inches Diameter 5 what their Length was I could not judge, by reafon they were within the Houfe* AH the reft was fm^ll Stuff, not above two or three Fingers thiick. The Hpufe is built that the outermoft Part of it doth not ftand further out into the Creek than the Edge of the Shore, but what brings the Water fo much round it (except the Creek in Front) is that the Houfe, being buil| pfthe Earth or Soilclofe to where it Ounds, the taking that Spil hath made twoTrenches, one on each Side, which are in the broadeft Part nine Feet, narrowing as they approach the Bank, an4 eighteen Feet long, receiving the Water of the Creek •, having feeniingly a Depth of Water at their tntrajice, but fhallowing towards the Bank. The Creek, at the Front of the Houfe, is fij^ and thirty Feet broad, feemingly deep, and con- Jinwes deep, though narrower, to the Dam. and. betweea '■5 4'?; I. 144 AVoYA^zfortbe Septembtr. between thefccond Dam and the firft, theWatei* is much (hallower, tho' deeper in fome Parts than others ) and the Creek again narrower, but in no Part Ids than from fourteen to eighteen Feet broad, moftly above twenty j the Houfe is tight and hard put together, requiring an Ax to break into it, and, when the Froft is fei in, almoft im- p-netrable. From «hfc Houfe there were fercral Paths into the Wood, the Track of which much refembiej that of a common Foot-path* the Ufe of which Path is to draw down out of the Wood the Sticks or Trees which they have there got, either for Food or Building -, and they bite off all the Twigs, or Pieces of Willow and Poplar which grew a-crofs, or in the Way, to make a free Paflage. ;.■'■■•.. , ■■., i,.k Ik ,> .;' '* ii It,"?''?. ■ ,„ '' I, t.Lj... i. m ^ The third and laft Dam is about three hun- dred Yards beyond the Houfe^ but the Creek is loft in a Swamp within about fifty Yards of the Houfe, fo that the Water of this Creek is no more than the Drainirr; of thefe Swamps, and of the Land near to it, penned up by the Dams beyond the Houfe t, before you come at the Swamp, the Land on each Side the Creek fails low •, there is no more Pine-W ood, only Poplar- Brufti 5 and the Land here defcends towards the great River, which is about half a Mile off*, be- yond the Swamp a Parcel of Water, then a Swanvp again for fome Length, beyond that a narrow Difcovery of a North-Weft Fajfage. 145 narrow Channel for upwards of an hundred Yards, September: much like a common Ditch, but deep, which, as the Land declines, would empty itfelf into the great River, but it is the third Dam which, runs athwart here that caufes this Colleftion of Water, and, is a Prevention of the Water running off, altering its Courfe and confining it to fup ply the Vent of the Dams on the other Side the Houfe, and the Pieces of Swamp be- tween this Channel and the Creek-head, keep the Water as it drains through them, from going down fafter, than the Dams which are below the Houfe demand it. This third and laft Dam much different from the other, is made on even Ground -, it is in a direft Line for twelve Feet 5 on that Part next the great River, or On the Outfide ; from the Houfe the perpendicular Height is two Feet, Sloap three Feet, four Feet broad on the Top, which ilants towards the great River ; the Infide is three Feet perpendicular, Sloap five Feet -, the Earth from which it is made is fetched from the Infide, as is done at the other Dams, but the further Parts from which it is fetched, not sibove twelve Feet diftant ; and at the Place from which it is fetched there is deep Water •, to the right of this Part of the Dam twelve Feet longj the Dam is continued about ten Yards, and to the left which is a lower Part thirty •, but the Dam falls foon to a Foot and a half, aFoot in Height, and ijp lefs, and then no better than a Plough- u ^•i ri Ridge : if m ^'-". ... .« t ' 146 ^ V y A o E /of the Sejptember. Ridge: This Dam hath no Cut on the Top of it, as the others, to let the Water oflf. This Houfc was faid to have no Beavers in it, by Reafon they had been difturbed; for, when once Beavers are difturbed, they immediately quit that Habiution. The Jrdiam know in the Summer Seafon, whether the Beavers inhabit a lioufe or not, by looking on the Stems of the Poplar, the upper Part, or Branches of which have been bit off, and feeing whether the Marks of their Teeth are frefli or not-, for it is with their fore Teeth, which are fhaped like thofc of a Ra- bit, that they cut down all their Wood, and the Pieces, where cut, look as if they had been cut by a Cooper's Gouge : If the Marks are frefh, they then know that the Houfe is not forfakcn. The Indians alfo know by the Mark which their Teeth leave, what kind of Beavers there are in fuch Houfe, their Age and Number; at a Birth they have from two to five, and not more, and breed Annually. The /«^/^»j fometimes fhoot them, which they do by getting to the Leeward of the Beavers ; and they muft make Ufe of fome Dexterity, for the Beaver is an extreme Ihy Animal, fharp at Hear- ing, and of a quick Scent •, and the Opportu- nities they have of Ihooting them is at fuch Times as the Beavers are at Work, or when Afhorc to feed on the Poplar. They work in the Morning HiKi HrwHing, TTiivij every i ning iS quieC ; WiUlC at Difiovery of a North-Weft Pajfage. 147 at Work they will ftop all of a Sud(icn,andliftcn Sep'frol?«r. if they can hear any Thing, and if they do, jump into the Water immediately, continue in the Wa- ter a Time, and then rife at a large Diftance from where they are at firft feen. They are fometimcs taken by Traps, which is a very fimple Contri- vance ; the Bait is Poplar-Sticks, laid in a Path, and near to the Water ; which, if the Beaver be- gin to feed on, th^a a large Log of Wood falls on their Necks. At the fetting of thefe Traps, the Indians firft wafh their Hands, and ufe all pcflible Mc^ns that the Poplar, with which they ftt thefe Traps, fhall not fmcll of their Hands, for then the Beaver would not come near it. This is the Way of getting them moft ufed, it being eafier than that of fhooting them ; the Gun being apt to tear the Skin, and make it the lefs valuable. V .. ■ii 1 Hi,- J. (1 ■ ► s 1 > ►.'J ,'1 ' The Beaver comes not upon the Land in the Winter, but then they attack him in his Houfe, and his Skin is reckoned in the higheft Perfedion about Chriftmas, To take the Beaver in Winter, they break the Ice at a Diftance from the Houfe in two Places, th -' one behind the other, and in both Places from t : Shore (the Houfe ftanding ufualiy two Thirds in Water,J on one Side the Houfe, to the Shore on the other Side of it ; that is, before the Front of the Houfe, from Shore to Shore : Then they take away the broken Ice with a Kind of a Racket, for otherwife that loofe Ice would hinder them from feeing whereto place U 2 their lit-' ': vl*! m ' ■■■"■■ ^: 148 -^ V O Y A G E /cr //> Jl • ,1 , * " • 'I. ■'"'''l-^l' '•• • -.1-, . ^1 > •('•■*•>''.< ••' .-f' ■'■ .-■> ".',*' •*^-(^i *■■■ iff * ■,• • . ■ ^S -v.::. ■■■■ ■ha ' ••; f " •■■»!. M' rr,: 150 A Voyage fir the September. Beaver Creek, of Stones, Poplar-Sticks, and Earth, mixed together, and plaiftcred or covered with a Kind of Marie, as I perceived by one of them, after clearing away the Snow. There was a Dam alfo crofs the narrow Cut above the Houfe, but in Ruins J for this Houfe, as well as that at Beaver Crceky was uninhabited. As to the Infidc of thefe Houfes, I cannot fay any Thing as to my own Knowledge, by Reafon I had no Opportunity of feeing them, or getting them broke into. By the beft Information 1 could get from thofe who have feen the Infide of Beaver- Houfes, I find that the common received Opinion of their building feveral Stories in them, one a- bove the other, is quite fiditious •, they re- port that K m lir '- ■ I'll Clober. The Weather, now grown to be very cold, be- gan to be more fettled. Between the firft and the the thirteenth of OHoher there were, at Times, Falls of Snow,otherwife fine clear Weather, with Snnfhine •, but, on the thirteenth, there was Rain, with which it grew much warmer ; but, on the next Morning, the fourteenth, the Wind then changing from the South to North- Weft, it grew again very cold, and the Froft very Iharp. The Ships Boats had a free Paflage backward and forward to the Factory, no longer than the fifth of October. Upon the third, as it had done Days before, the Tide brought a great Quantity of thin skim Ice into the Creek, Part of which it left on the Banlcs •, fo on the fourth -, and the fifth the Entrance of the Creek was fo full of Ice upon the Flood, that the Long- Boat of the Cali- fornia^ and the Pinnace, with great Difficulty pufhed through, nor could they for fome Time get to the Shore, the People being firft taken out in the Small-Boat, very cold, and fome of their Jackets almoft covered with Ice, the Spray of the Water being froze on them. Upon the feventh there was a Quantity of Ice on the Shores of the great River, and the Channels upon the Flood were filled v/ith iluQi Ice. By the ninth the Creek was froze over from Side to Side, and could be walked upon, the Shoals as well as the Shores of the great River, as far down as the tending Difcdvery of a North-Wejl PaJJage. i SS tending itfelf fomeway into the Channels j but Oftober. the Channels were yet open. After the thirteenth of October we neither heard nor faw any more Geefe during the Winter, tho' it is ufual for fome few of them to ftay as long as there are any Waters open, the Want of which is a fuffici^nt Reafon for their not continuing in thefe Parts •, to which maybe added another, which is, their not being fufficiently provided with Feathers to preferve them againft the Severity of the Sea- fonj for all the Birds which remain in thefe Parts are extraordinarily provided by Nature for that Purpofe, except the Raven. Amongft thefe Birds, none are a more remarkable Inftance of this than the Partridge, which, in Summer, are brown, much the Colour of an Englijij Par- tridge. Thofe brown Feathers they moult as the Winter comes on, and have, in their Stead, white Feathers, excepting the larger Tail-Fea- thers, which are tipped with black. The white Feathers (excepting the Pinion Feathers, and the large Feathers of the Tail) are double, or lined, every QiuU producing two or double Feathers, one growLig within the other •, the inner one lefs than the outer, and more foft and downy. Thus in Winter they have doiTbie the Number of fmall Feathers to what i.he\ have in Summer. They moult thefe white Feathers in Spring, and rC" affume their brown Feathers (which then are only one to a Quill) againfl: the Summer Seafon. \t\ • 1 X a The 'S6 Cftober. ■..ii I.I' i- , - 1', iW '' '■ -. T, ,: ^ Vo Y A G E for the The Partridge is not unlike to thofe in Eng- land^ as to the Shape of the Head, but their Beaks are rather more fnubbed and fhort. Over their Eyes they have fmall red Combs -, in the Make of their Body Hke a Pidgeon, but much larger •, their Legs are muffled ; they feed when the Snow is on the Ground, on the fmall Twigs and Buds of Poplar, of which you will find their Craws full, having Gravel amongft it. They run much as Englijh Partridge do, and, like them, flock together, but this only during the Winter Seafon -, and it is their Similitude to the Englijh Partridg /, in thefe two refpeds, that gave them their Name. Mod of the Partridge were this Year intirely white by the thirteenth of O^ober ; there were few or none of them which had not moulted their brown Feathers by that Time. As the Birds are provided for againft the Se- verity of the Seafon, fo are the Beaft ; which is evidenced in the Skins of thofe Beads, which are killed in Winter being only of Value, and what we call Firs ; the Skin of thofe Beads which are killed in Summer being of little Value, and ne- ver traded for. The Rabbits are provided by Nature with a warmer Coat than what they have in Summer, having in Summer only a diort fhag Fir, of a brownilh Colour, which they do not died i but on the Approach of Winter it (hoots out into a long Hair, turning white. When tlic Rabbits are intirely changed, fo as on looking ainongd the Hair you do not fee it brown at Difcovery of a Nortb-Wejl Paffage, i $7 at the Root, or half Way up, they are then in Oflober. high Seafon for Eating. In their Skins they ap- pear much larger than our Englijh Rabbits, but, when fkinned are not fo i they have theRefem- blance both of the Rabbit and Hare •, their Head nnd their Ears are like to the Rabbit ; in their Body and Feet they moft refemble the Hare, Upon the Fifteenth we had a Fall of fmall dufty Snow, from Six to Eleven, with a Iharp Air i which was the firft Snow that continued or laid on the Ground, and did not melt as all the former Snows had done. The People were now forced to wear Mittins ; for, if their Hands were bare, the Froft would immediately feize them. They alfo found it neceflary to wear more Cloath- ing. All Iron touched ftuck to the Fingers. Water expofed in the open Air immediately froze ; and Beer carried in a Cafk, between the Houfe and the Ship (though not Half a Mile) would have a Quantity of Ice amongft it. On the Eighteenth, at Night, was the laft Rain we had during the Winter. Between the fifteenth and thirtieth of O^oher, it was much the fame, as to Cold -, fometimes warmer than the othtr, as the Wind was North- erly or Southerly ; the Northerly, and efpecially North- Wefterly Winds producing the coldeft Weather \ frequent Falls of fmali dufty Snow \ hiir at f>tln<»r Tune*; rlear We;}rhpr- ^1 ■' " t . >i\ ' ,f ' V M Several «5» ^Voyage for the W;\ ■'•'*ii ff-^-: ll'l ' ■^> Oftober. Several of the Seamen were about this Time taken ill •, fome while at Work in the Woods; others aboard the Ship, upon their Return from Work. When they came near to the Fire they were feized with a Shivering, and Sicknefs at the Stomach, like the Attack of an Ague Fit, and were very faint. The Night after, they would be refllefs •, on the next Day complained either of Pains in their Heads or Backs, but never, at the fame Time, of both. They were very low- fpirited*; on the fuccceding Night would 0eep better than on the former ; their Pain was lefs on the next Day, and Spirits better, but with very little Appetite. The third Night they would reft tolerably *, and on the following Day would be in a manner well, and free from Pain. On the fourth or fifth Day would be able to return to their Bufinefs. All the Remedies made ufe of, were, either bleeding the Day the Perfon was taken, or, on the next Day ; and fomething given to Sweat i but I could never hear that this man- ner of treating the Diftemper had any fenfible Effea. Novemb. November the firft being cloudy, with fmall Snow, and a frelh Wind at N. E. the Cold in- creafed -, and the next Day, the Wind at N. W. began to be extreme, or very intenfe ; and the Captain, with the Officers and Seamen, being ftill on board the Ship, could not be warm, not even in the Cabbin, though a gveat Fire was con- tinually Difcovery of a Nortb-Weji Pajfage, 159 tinually kept, and Blankets nailed over the Win- Novemb. dows. If any Water poured out of one Veflel into another, fell afide, it immediately froze. Brandy was congealed fo as to look like Oil. Port Wine froze folid. Liquor, one third Bran- dy, froze folid. Excepting what contained in a fmall Cavity, in the Middle, both of the Wine and the Bombo, what remained unfroze in fuch. Cavities was extremely ftrong. All within Side the Ship, the Ceilings, and the Bolt- heads, ex- cepting in the Cabbin or the Galley, were thick covered with a white Rind. Upon Waking in the Morning the Blankets would have Icicles up- on them near to the Mouth, proceeding from the Freezing of the Breath. When we went Abroad, the Eye-laflies, the Dropping of the Nofe, and the Sweat afide the Wigs, froze. In Cutting of the Ice with an Axe, to get at the Water, the Bits of Ice which would fly up, or the Sprinkling of the Water, would immediate- ly freeze, and ftick to the Face or Cloaths. The Fingers could not be expofed a Trifle of Time, without Freezing ; and you were conftantly oblig- ed, every Quarter of an Hour, or oftener, to rub your Face, to prevent the Nofe or the Cheeks Freezing. So that we were now advanced to as fevere Weather, with Refpe6l to Cold, as the Winter would admit of •, and which lafted un- til the Tenth, but then grew more moderate. The Commanders, and the People, were by that Time removed from the Ships to the Houfc, and the Tents. It ■■-"•^-il •s I 1I - I .," '""ft 4'"' I < f: pp (>■ W{ > ./ j.i' ..^..; tK^. K-: 164 A V o Y A G "E for the Novemb. build a Barricade, or a thick Hedge of Pine, to cover them from the Wind •, and with a good Fire before them, as there \z no Thaw or Moi- fture, there is not any thing to be feared as to Catching of Cold, nor as to Freezing, from the intenfe Cold that the Fire proteds them from. By thefe Means can ftay all Night without Harm, and comfortably, if they have any Game in their Bag, which hangs upon their Shoulders by a Strap of Leather, that comes before them a-crofs their Breafl-s, and is ufually called their Partridge Bag. Befides, if any Perfon finds any Part of him freezing, it is cuftomary, immediately, if not near a Tent, to make a Fire, and fet him- ielf down, with that Part which is fo freezing from the Fire, and ufe ftrong Fridlion. So you do in cafe you find your Cheeks, Nofe, or any Part of your Face, tingling, you immediately turn with your Backs to the Wind, rub the Part ftoutly, and the Freezing may be prevented. The Hatchets are alfo ufeful to them for Repair- ing their Traps, and on feveral Occafions. From the Ufe of fo warm a Drefs, it may be eafily imagined, that the Weather is very fevere, yet it is not fo fevere that there is no Subfifting without fuch a Drefs -, fome of the Fadlory Ser- vants themfelves only wear Coats made of Lea- ther, or Moufe-Skin, drefled by the Indians, which are loofe and long, fomething like a Ba- nyan. Blankets, and even a good great Coat, will do as to the Body ; the principal Care required being Difcovery of a Nortb-Wefi Pajfage, i6§ being as to the extreme Parts, as to the Feet and Novemb. Legs, Arms and Hands, thefe muft be fecured, as alfo the Head, and thefe Parts the Indians take principal Care of, both as to themfelves and their Children. This Method of providing by the Faftory People was a Pattern for the Ship's People to do the fame ; fome of the Officers had provided themfelves with Beaver Coats, which are called Tockies. Before they fet out from the Orknyes the Governor of Tork Fort, fent eachShip a Number of Tockies for the "Winter, both for the Ufe of the common Men, as well ?s of the Officers of both Ships, who were not fupplied ; and prefened all the Officers with Beaver-Skin Mittens, and Skins for Caps i he alfo fupplied both Ship's Companies with Leather for Shoes. They were fupplied with Socks and Stockings out of the Ship's Stores. Many of the Men by a former Acquaintance, or one newly contracted, with the Servants of the Faftory, got Beaver Mittens and Caps; others Leather Mittens which they lined with Woollen i or made them Woollen Mittens, wear- ing alfo on their Hands two pair of knit Mittens. They provided themfelves fo well, that no ma- terial Accident as to Freezing happened to any one ; the moft Material was a Finger of one of the Seamen was froze, and the Heel of another, both which were cured ; but as to the others, they ^ -f?'|i,^.- i^- I^ ^^yoYJi^tfir the Nov^b. th^-oiilygot the Tip of their Fingers bliftered, or their Checks, or their Nofe, which prefently difappeared, leaving the Part very tender. "What was the greateft Inconvenience, was the Want of Snow-SIioes, which they had but a few Pair of, and without which it was almoft iri- pofliblc for them to go out and kill Qame upon the Creeks which were levels and where the Snow fell dired ; the Snow was at no Time jibovc a Foot thick, but on the Plains where there is high Grafs, and Brulh, the Snow lying light and hollow, upon every Step taken, you -jink to the Knees. Upon the Sides of Banks and in Places where the Snow is drifted by the Wind, the Snow fhall be fix or eight, in fome Places, fourteen Feet in Depth; and to the Windward it fhall be fo hard, that a Perfon may walk up it without niaking any ImprelTion, and as foon as he is at the Top, it will give Way and let him in, finding fome Difficulty to extricate himfelf afterwards. 4. ' h 1 ^1 The Form of the Snow-Shoes is fomewhat Elliptical, not being a perfed Ellipfis ; the one End round, and the other terminating in a Point. There are fome of thefe Shoes fix Feet long, or longer -, the ufual Size of thofe ufed in the Parts where we were, and of thofe the People had, was about four Feet long, in the broadeft Part about feventeen Inches ; the Outfide is of the Juniper Tree, abput the Thicknefs of an Inch, and half an Difi(mry of a North^Weft' Pafage. i&f an Inch in Breadth, much reremblingthtlnfideof Novttftb: a Kackc^ and pierced through like thatf forpafl ling the Gut through to make the Netting. The Netting that is in the Snow-Shocs, which is worked m the fatttc manner as it is in the Racket: (only theMalhes larger) is of Dfeers Sinewsdried; To keep the Piece of Juniper y^hich furround* the Shoe more firm, and the Sid^s together, there^ are two Bars put a-crofs, which are moftly o^ Juniper, and which Bars dividb the Shoes int•.■ '^ -."t it'" ' , fj >« !■ J- i68 ji Voyage for tbe Noremb. tends to the hinder Bar, this Opening is for the fore Part of the Foot, fo as the Toes do not touch the oppofite Bar, as it would bruife them, the other Part of the Foot is on the Netting, fattened by two Strings or Straps of dreffed Deer Skin which pafs o er the Toes, round the Foot and the Heel, tied in a Manner as to be eafily Ihaken off, without ufing the Hands, the Shoe hangs principally by the Toes, and the fore Part of the Foot, and when the Foot is lifted up in walking, the Shoe hangs Harizontal, and from the Heel, which meets the Shoe again as the Foot is put down, in walking you fhoot your Foot forward, lifting one Shoe fo high as you may not ftrike the other, It caufes a very aukwajd Gate» but is prefently acquired. Thefe Shoes, as well as the Manner of Cloathing in Winter, is after the Example of the Indians, and the Shoes are made by the Indians for the People at the Fadory. There is no pafling the Snow without fuch Shoes, for any length of Way, and where the Snow is not deep, as of about twelve or fourteen Inches you win not fink with them above half an Inch, tut in the Woods and Plains,, or fuch Places in which the Snow is deeper you will fink two or thtee Inches. As there could be but few Snow-Shoes got, for the People, thefe they could procure were aflignedtothofe of every Tent that hunted, the People of every Tent having their fevcral Pro- vince, there being feven Perfons in a Tent (in- cluding Difcovery of a North-Weft Pajfage, 169 eluding the Paetroon, or he who commands, and Novemb. alfo aBoy) two of the People were kept to Hunt- ing, which Term they give to going a Shooting of Partridge-, they alfo fet upRabbits Snares. Two others were employed to cut and bring home Wood, and there faw it, fawing as much every Day as would laft for Firing twenty-four Flours, and having always as much cut down as would ferve for a Fortnight's Firing, that in exceflivc Weather they might only have it to faw. The Saws and Hatchets were brought with us from England. Another Part of the Bufinefs of one of them, befides Cutting and Sawing of Wood, was to go and fee what Rabbits were in the Snares, and new fet themj and of the other was to go on MefTages to the Houfe, and fetch up Pro- vifions on the proper Days, and keep Ice cut ready for fetching. The Place of the fifth Per- fon was to Cook ; he got the Breakfaft by Day- light for the Hunters, then for the others ; after- wards fwept his Tent, cleaned the Things up, made the Cakes and baked them. Flower being allowed inftead of Bifcuit, the Bifcuit being pre- ferved until the going to Sea. DrefTed the Din- ner, the Time for which was Sun-fet, and, if any Game was brought Home, it was his Place to pick it : Twice in the Week he and the Boy brewed Spruce Beer, though they had no true Spruce nearer than twenty Miles, but they made Z ufe i . ,"t i 11"" .'.* t 111'' \ !*■■.■' • M-> '■ ... v-.t Jf V o y A G E for the ufeofthc Tops offmall Pine Trees. • This Beer was much preferable to the Water of thawed Ice, and it prevented the People's being Coftive, which was a general Complaint of every Body during the Winter, and for this Reafon the Fac- tory Servants, when they go to refide Abroad at a Tent, take Molofles with them to mix with their Water : The further Bufinefs of the Boy, befides afiifting in Brewing, is to light and keep up the Fire, bring in the Billets, fetch Ice, make the Beds, and affift in any other Way he could. Juft after Sun-fet was the ufuai Time that the Hunters repaired Home, efpecially if fuccefslefs, by which Time as many Billets were got into the Tent as would be neceflary for the Night and Morning Fire •, the Tent Door was made up. Dinner got, afterwards a good Fire which made the Tent impenetrable to all Cold •, and, as every Man was allowed half a Pint of Brandy a Day « To brew this Beer, the Kettle being near full of Water, cram the Kettle with fmall Pine ; from one Experiment you will judge the Quantity of Pine that will bear a Proportion to your Water, let the Tops of the Pine be boiled in the Water until the Pine turns yellow, and the Bark peels, or the Sprigs ftrip off readily on being pulled ; then take off your kettle, and the Pine out of the Water, and to about two Gallons of Liquor put a quarter of a Pint of Molofles ; hang your Kettle on, giving the Liquor another Boil until a Scum atiles ; ih?n take the Liquor off, put it into a Cask in which you have be? Difcovery of a 'North-Weft Paffage, 1 7 1 with proportionable Sugar, they made Spruce ^'ovemb. Beer, Flip, moft generally, with which tkay fmoaked their Pipes, and about eight o'Clock to Bed i when in Bed they could not be more fcnfible of the Cold, than when up, having a Quantity of Cloaths to cover them j but notwithftanding there would be Ice on the Blankets in the Morn- ing, from the Freezing of their Breath, and Icicles near a Foot long, hanging down from be- tween the Logs at the Ends of the Tent, the fartheft from the Fire ; if there were any Water left in the Kettles, or if a Kettle was full of Water, it would be froze all folid before the Morning, but it had not that EfFed on the Spruce Beer, which being placed near the Fire, there could be no Fear as to its Freezing all Day, and at Night, when the Fire was out, it would freeze but very little. The Tents had each of them three Brafs Ket- tles, two larger, one fmaller ; a Cafk for their Beer ; Bowls, Cans, and Spoons ; a double Saw ; a fingleSaw, alfo fmall Hatchets*, a large Wood Axe ; and three or four Fowling-Pieces. Once every Week they fetched their Provifion from the Houfe where the Captains refided -, but wer^ only allowed five Days Dinners ; three of which were fait Meat, two Filh •, the other two Days the People mull" provide for themfelves. This was intended to make the People exercife them- felves in Hunting, to provide themfelves for thofe two Days i and that it would alfo be two Z 2 Days ■If ' 172 A VoY AQR for the i--'y Novemb. Days in a Week for frclh Provifion i and was a Saving of the other Provifion, The Pcrfon who went to the Houfe for the Provifion, drew it on a Sled -, of which every Tent had one or two. Thefe Sleds were made of Barrel-Staves, ftraightened, and paired, fo as to be very thin. The Sleds were about thirteen or fourteen Feet long, and a Foot and Half broad. Every Length of thefe Staves were knit to ano- ther Length by a Piece of Wood, which went a- crofs the Ends of the two Lengths i and which Piece of Wood was fattened both to one and the other, by Pegs drove through it, in two feparate Rows i fo that in the Drawing of the Sled, as the Ends of the Lengths of the Staves are not fattened to each other, but it is this Slip of Wood, which holds them together, thefe Lengths play and twine over rough Ice, or any Unevennefs on the Surface, as though they were Joints. From one End of the Sled to the other (excepting the Front, where the Sled turns up) they were two Strips of Wood nailed to the Sled, near the Edge, on both Sides. In thefe Strips there were Holes made, to pafs a fmall Rope through, and fo fatten Provifion, or whatever elfe is put on the Sled. The Front of the Sled turns up more than a Foot i and there are two Pieces of Rope, one on each Side, to keep it in that Pofition. The Head of the Sled being thus turned up, it dif- perfes and. turns away the Snow ; for if it was flat or low the Snow would obftruft the Sled, and make DifcoveryofaNorth^JFeftPaffage. 171 make it bury itfelf. The Sled is drawn by a Novtmb. fmall Cord, the two Ends of which arc faftcnM to the two Pieces or Strips of Wood that pafs on both Sides the Length of the Sled ; and the Per- fon who draws the Sled, paffing the Rope over his Shoulder, and under the oppofite Arm, wiU draw the Sled over the Snow, and well loaded, with great Eafc. At the Fadorics they have large Dogs, which they make ufe of to draw their Sleds, having fuitable Hamcfs ; and aU the Carriage which is performed in thefe Parts 'I "^f^' ^y Men or Dogs ; they having no Horfes, or other Animals, which they can em- ploy for this Purpofe. What thofe who go out a Hunting principally kill, m the Winter, are Partridge and Rabbits. The Partridge they fhoot ; but the other the^ moftly take by the Snare. The Partridge, L foon as the Winter fets in, begin to go in Flocks, fometimes two hundred in a Flock, which the Hunter endeavours to get out upon the Plains or the Ice; and he there keeps them conftantly on the Scare, by firing fmall Charges of Powder at them, they rifing and fettling again juft before him, and fo keeps following them unlil they are tired, and he hath made them, as tame as Chickens ; then he kills almoft as he pleafes. Some of the Faftory Servants and Indians ufe a Whiftle, in " which they imitate the Hawk -, and when they fee the Partridge are likely to take a far Flight, will. . ■ ■• 1 ' i ** '■'^■■l I i fe;^.^ I ^S.^^::.:- sw ^■•''' r li-i) ■ 174, jiV OY AGE for ibe Wovemb. will, by their Whittling, caufe the Partridge to pitch. ' The Partridge were in pretty great Plenty until the firft Week of December -, and then that Plenty ceafed ; occafioned as well by there not being fo much Snow upon the Hills, as in the low Lands where we were -, and they could there get to feed on the Cranberries and Dewatterber- ries, which laft all the Winter. They alfo were drove from the Parts where we were, by the Number of People that were inceffantly after them, and would not give them Time to flock. In fevere Weather they yield no Sport, keeping in the Woods. The belt Time, in good Wea- ther, is in the Mornings and Evenings -, then they are out of the Woods, amongft the Pop- lar upon the Bank-fides of Rivers or Creeks, or on the Iflands. - There are Pheafants, though but few, much like to our Englifi Pheafants, which abide during the Winter, and are double feathered. There is alfo, befides thefe, white Partridge, another Kind, which they call a Wood Partridge, much like to an Englijh Partridge in Shape, but differ- ing in Colour, which much refembles that of a Guinea Hen •, or is a mottled White and Grey •, and though thefe Partridge Ihift their Feathers in the fame Manner as the white Partridge do, hav- ing alfo double Feathers -, yet there is no Aiteia- tion Wl- Bifcovery of a Nortb-Weji Pajage, 175 tion as to the Colour, as is mentioned of the white Novtmb. Partridge \ nor is there of the Pheafant, or of the Hawks, or Kites } all which have a Change of Feathers, but no Alteration as to Colour ; and the Hawks and Kites, of which there are various Sorts (as well as the Pheafants) feem to be of the fame Species, in all other Refpedts, with thofe Kind of Birds which we have in England, The Wood Partridge hath a red Comb over his Eyes ; is often killed as he fits fleeping on the Ground ; and at other Times there is more Danger of your coming too near him than of the Bird's getting away 5 for often, when a Hunter lights upon one of thefe Partridges, he is forced to ftep fome Yards back, for fear his Shot Ihould tear the Bird to Pieces. The Rabbits do not burrow as in England^ but get afide Stumps or fallen Trees 5 and in Winter fcratch Holes in the Snow. The Hun- ter obferves their Tracks in the Snow, which they make as they go out a Nights to feed 5 fells fmall Trees with the Branches on, and lays a Tree on each Side the Trad, leaving juft the Width of the Traft open -, and the Trees ftretching eight or ten Feet to the Right or Left, the Rabbit is confined, in a manner, to his Tradt. The Hun- ter fets up two Sticks a-crofs, about five Feet in Height, which are to carry a Pole, one End of which is elevated, and the other made faft to a Brafs Snare, placed in the Opening between the Trees, and confined down in fuch a Manner by three '^ •:* JV.' «^ •J 1,1 1 if^ i - 'i i ^« ff * . r 176 ji y or AOE for t&^ Kovcmb. three Sticks, and tied with fo flight a Knot, that as foon as the Rabbit is taken, the Snare flips, and up goes the Pole -, and, by being thus hung in the Air, the Rabbit is preferved from the Wolves, Foxes, Cats, and lefler Vermin, pre- fently freezes to Death, and mofl: comnr.only muft be brought to the Fire before the Snare can be got off. Where there is a great Run of Rab- bits, there Ihall be a Hedge of forty Trees in Length, leaving Openings where the Trads are, and fetting up Poles. In light Nights little Suc- cefs is to be expeded. After Snows the Snares are generally all to be moved, as the Rabbits will then have newTrads ; and fometimes the Foxes, by frequenting the Hedges, will drive them from their Haunts. It is eafier Trapping them when they haunt amongft the Poplar and Brufli, on the River or Creek Sides. Find out where the Brufli is thick on each Side their Trad •, and this you thicken by fliicking Sticks in amongfl; it •, then you take and bend down a Piece of the Poplar or Alder to your Snare, which anfwers the Purpofe of your Tofling-Pole •, but fetting or redifying of Snares is very unpleafant Work, as you are obliged to hold your Hands fo near the Snow, which will oblige you every two or three Minutes, from the Intenfenefs of the Cold, to put your Hands in your Mittins for Warmth. \ r/> What was killed, either of Partridge or Rab- bits, bore no Prooortion to the hundred Dozen — — — -^ — -. which Mr. Hudfon's People killed, of Partridge •, nor Difcovery of a NortihfFeft Pajfage. 177 nor of the eighteen hundred Dozen killed by Sir Novemb. Thomas Button's People -, nor had the People , ufed all the Induftry polTible, would any thing like either of thofe Numbers, of both Rabbit and Partridge, nor of Partridge only, been kil- led. The People only faw three Deer all the Win- ter, none of which they killed. One of Capr. Moor's Ship's Company killed a Porcupine, Ihooting him in the Tree ; but it is the Cuftom of the Indians, if there is a Porcupine upon the Tree, to cut it down ; and when the Porcupine felis with the Tree, they kill him, by ftriking him over the Nofe. The Make of the Body much refembles that of a Pig ; hath fmall Eyes and Mouth, Feet like a Land Tortoife, with larcre Claws, is covered with a long briftly Hair, and*a Ihorter Hair under that ; and under this Ihorter Hair his Quills lie concealed very thick -, they are white, with a brown Point, the longeft not exceeding four Inches in Length, and which, on ftroaking your Hand upon the Hair, immediately ftick to the Hand -, and as you take away your Hand, they come alfo (licking to it. When the Porcupine finds he cannot get from you, he will fidle towards you, to touch you with his Quills ; which are of fo penetrating a Quality, the In- dians ftick them in their Nofe and Ears, for to cat Holes, for the placing their Nofe and Ear- <:S'^: RinETS Aa Tw9 .78 A V o y A^ E for the ,ii 4^ i'^'* 1" >. fr ;» ■V ' ; Novemb. Two People fet out from Cburcbiil F-A^oryy and at Night built a Barricado to lie under. Nex^ Night returned to the lame Barricado, and there found a Wolf lying dead. Looking upon him could perceive no Marks, in his Skin, of his be- ing (hot, or any ways wounded ; but opening the Wolf's Mouth found it ^ full of Porcupine Quills. . ' The Porcupine moves very (lowly, as he turns the Snow up with his Snout all the Way it goes, which makes his Track very plain j and when his Track is once fell in with, the Porcupine is foon overtaken. The Porcupine gets up into a Pine or Juniper-Tree, and there ftays until he hath bark- ed it both Body and Branches. The Juniper is the moft favourite, and what he feeds on is the Rind between the Bark and the Wood. This Animal is very good Eating. The moft of the Provifion oilr People pro- cured, in the Winter, was the Effed of their own Induftry, By our not going to Pore Nelfon we were deprived of the Afliftance of the Indians^ which w?.s one of the principal Motives urged in the Council for our Wintering there. Thofe Indians who were mentioned to come Aboard us, when the Ship lay in live Fathom Hole, and were to hunt for us in Winter, were of thofe they call Home Indians^ always in Parts ne^r the Factory, not going far up into the Country, and are in- , - tirely %\ I ' I ^ory, and :r. Next and there upon him of his be- : opening Porcupine IS he turns ly it goes, I when his ne is foon 3 a Pine or lath bark- Juniper is on is the )d. This ople pro- their own Nelfon we e Indians^ rged in the )le Indians us, when id were to e they call e Factory, nd are in- tirely Difcovery of a Nortb-W^ Paffage. 179 tirely at the Governor's Diredion. The Story Novemb. which they had related with refped to JIbanyy their being difcharged, and going Southward, was all meer Invention. If they were not Spies employed by the Governor, they anfwered the Purpofe ; for it is highly probable, that it was upon what they faid, or what the Governor learn- ed from them, that the Governor difpatched a Parcel of Indians, then at the Goofe-Tent, which is a fmall wooden Houfe built near the extreme Point oi Hays's Ifland, or Point of Marlh, and who had come down to kill Geefe, \ip into the Country ; laying a ftrid Injundion gn others not to come nigh us (there being many, at that Time, (hooting Geefe for the Fadory) and hur- ried them away as foon as the Seafon was over. This Injundion was not fo ftridly obfcrved, but fome came Aboard us, both before we were in the Creek, as well as aftLT. But what we got of Provifion from them was very trifling; fome few Fifli, a fmall Quantity of Venifon, Ipme few Ducks and Geefe. As foon as the Houfe was in- habited, fome of the Fadory Servants came, and creded a Tent near it i their Bufinefs being to fetch down fome Wood, which had been felled, and fa wed into Plank, about fix Mile,s offi but another Purpofe was, to prevent our having any Intercourfe with the Indians ; and a Tent witli two of the Fadory People was I fpc (to watch that the Indians fhould not come to the Houfe) till tiie TT inter, anu wnife the Smps continued 'n the Creek ; the Indians knowing that there ■i>^. if «i A a 2 was ^ '.• - ',* 180 uf V o Y A G E for the Noveinb. was a Perfon who would give an Account to the • Governor of their Coming, it difcouraged them from coming ; and very little frelh Provifion, for thai Reafon, was got from them. I Ihould have excepted (when I faid that the Indians were fent away) fome few that were de- tained, to drefs the Skins for the People's Toe- kies. And Capt. Smith propofcd to Capt. Moor their fpeaking to the Governor, that fome of thefe Indians might be afterwards employed in killing of Partridge for both Ship's Companies. This was approved of by the Governor ; and he continued three Indians to hunt for the Ships for a Month ; but as they were neither extraordi- nary Sportfmen, or remarkably induftrious, they killed no great Quantity of Birds. At the End of that Time two of them went with a Packet to Churchill Fadtory *, fo then the Hunting ceafed ; and on their Return there was little Game. What thefe few "Weeks Hunting produced was all the Supply of frefh Provifion which we had by Means of the Governor, excepting fome Venifon in the Spring; i which will be fpoke of. * "There are Indians who are at all Times near the Fadories, for which they kill Provifion, and go a Hunting, juft as the Governor gives them Direftion. There are others who come at the Time the Geefe are going Northward, in order to fhooc Geefe for the Factories, continue there in the Summer, fifliing ; kill Gedc again, when going Bifcovery of a Nortb-Wefi Pajfage. ig| going to the South •, and, the Seafon being over, Novemb. return up the Country. There are others who only come down to Trade, and that fcveral Times in the Year ; others who come in large Bodies together, to Trade ; and that but once in a Year. They are all wandering People, live by theChace, and in Tents; incamping as Convenience or Ne- ceflity requires. ' The firft Time the Indians^ who frequent the Southern Shore of Hudfon's Bay, faw any Euro- peans., was as early as the Difcovery of the Bay itfelf, by Mr. Hudfon. * « For when the Ice be- gan to break up, there came a Savage to the Ship, as it were to ! i*y * I ' . ! f' . -• ' '^, It , i IH il lU A Voir AOMfir the «( <( «( Ntwmb. " had given him, and put them again in his ♦* Scrip. Then the Matter fliewcd him, for " which he would have given him one of his ** Deer Sfcins ; but the Matter would have both ; *« which he had, but not willingly. After many Signs, as they underftood of it, of People to the North, and to the South, and Promife, after fo many Sleeps, he would come again, he went his Way ; but never came more •, nor ** could they afterwards meet with any People, " though they were fenfjble .that tlicy were fre- •* quently near them, as they would fct theWoods ^ a Fire in their Sight.** ,iiei^tr'. Sir Thomas ButtaHi norCapt. James^ faw aoyiiaf £ham •, they were not feen from the Time of Uudfon to the Year 1667 i then there was an Expedition for Trading with them ; which fucceeded fo well as to be a Foundation of the Hudfon*& Bay Compa- ny's Patent, which was granted them in the Year 1670. ; The Indians who inhabit the Soirth-Weft Part of Htidf&n*s Bay, and who are properly the Krick Indians^ or Kiliftinons, are much like the other Jmrkans whu .nhabit the Northern Part of Ame- rica^ as to the Make of their Perfons •, they are ftately, tall, well made People, in good Propor- tion, and of a vigorous Conftitution, fprightly^ ilrong, and adive i no way inferior to the Euro- pans in the Make of their Perfons, but have ra- ther the Preference on their Side. They are Peo- ple of a good Underflanding, of a lively Imagi- nation, nation, eafy Coneepcion, and good Memory ; N^vei*. : arc not without the Scnfc of a Dcicv ; condemn Vice i arc kind, affable, and hunnanc to cachr other ; pay a great Rcfpeft to the Aged amongft them, and a Deference to each other ; condudt their Affairs with as much good Senfc as the People of politer Nations da theirs. This Cha- rafter is not juft with reipea to tiiofe Mums which arc called the Home Indians 5 who, as mentioned, conftantly frequent the Faaories,and are always employed in Hunting for the Fafto- ries J but thofe who come occafionally down, and refide at other Times up the Country. Thefc Home Indians being become moftly a dehauch'd corrupted People, ftupid, idle, drunken, and guilty of all manner of Vice. The Indians are born white •, but their going almoil naked when Children, the GreaHng them, the Summer's Sun, th^ir being fo much expofed to the Air, and the Smoak of their Tents, ali .contribute to give them that brown -Gypfy Co- lour which they have. The Greafing themfelves» which is cuftomary with them al', is either with a Piece of Deer's Marrow (which they dry up much after the Manner of Hogs Lard) or Beara Grcafe, Beaver Oil, or Goofe Greafe, which they rub in the Palms of their Hands, then over their Face, and at Times over their whole Bodiesi and they will before a freih Anointing of their Bodies, fit in the Tents with their Barkc tr. i-k- Fire, and with a Stick like a Lath, but the Edges ~'irne(^5 1 m i ill 'il ||IM| Tiisir '; '^ffii 1 Til W^\ iS'f?? m W, >** Wi lliiki 11 • i . ' E. ! •* 14 iS^ A VoYAdt for the • * Noftmb. turned, fcrape thcGreafe olF theiri ; t&isGteafing in Summer is a Defence in fomeMcafure againft the Muskctoes, and is ufed at other Times for no other Rcafon as I could learn, but that it keeps their Joints pliant and fupple •, but on the other hand it makes them ftinking and nafty ; they having not found out the Way, as they refine upon nothing, to corre6b the Ranknefs of their Oils orGreafe, by Eflences and Perfumes, which more polite Nations have a long Time fubfti- tuted in the room of them. .iX The Habitations of the Indians (which we call Cabbins or Tents) are fufficiently wretched ; they are round ♦, probably, as that is the moft capa- cious Figure, and the eafieft ereftcd, with the Materials they make Ufe of -, which are a Num- ber of fmall Poles, that are fet to lean one againft the other, fo as they meet a Top, and extended below •, thefe are covered with dreffed Deer Skins fcwed together •, but the Deer Skins do not go quite to the Top, fo as to cover the upper Part, or to where the Poles meet ; which Part is left open to vent the Smoak, and let in the Light. Their Fire is in the Middle. The Bottom of theTent is ftrewed withTops of Pine- Trees. They lay with their Feet to the Fire, and with their Heads to the Tent-Sides -, and in the Tent they muft either fit or lie down, for there is not Room for them to walk •, nor do they ever walk about, as is the Manner with us. They are at all Times either lying down,OF fitting, uniefs they are a Hunt- Difcovery of a Nortb-Wefl Papge. 1 8 5 Hunting. They are as much furprized to fee Novcnib. the Europeans walk backward and forward in the fame Place, as the People of Spain were of whom Strabo fpeaks, to fee fome Centurions of the Ro- man Army watch after that manner ; they thought they were out of their Wits, and offered to lead them to their Tents i for they thought that they muft either keep quietly in their Tents, or that they muft have a Mind to do themfclves a Mif- chief. You enter the Tents by turning a Piece of the Skin, to which there is a Stick fattened on the Infide it, to make it flap and clofe ; they have no Bolts or Locks : The Tent Door is never made faft but when they are all out ; and then it is by laying Logs of Wood againft it, feemingly to keep out the Dogs more than for any other Pur- pofe. The Door is generally to the S. W. Thefe Tents are feldom pitched in the Mid- dle of Woods, or upon Heights, but upon Creek or River-fides, in Bottoms *, which may be done both for the Convenience of getting Water or Ice V as alfo in refpe<5t of Warmth ; their Cover- ings being but the Thicknefs of one Skin, they muft be very cold •, fo they are under a Neceffity to get all the Afliftance they can from a Situa- tion ; and in Summer their Tents are not habi- table upon the Account of the Musketoes, unlets they are full of Smoak. I' B b Whci '«§' i86 A Voir Ad iL firibi Novemb. I .1? 'I , ■■ 1 it'- > ' '■ mav: When they arc poor, and have not Skins to make a Tent of, they then only make Ufe of t Barricado, which is a thick Hedge made of the upper Part of young Pine-Trees, as is mention- ed to be done by the Fa<5tory People when out of a Night, at a Diftance from their Tent, or the Faftory, with a Fire in like Manner before them i and if there is any Snow, they clear it away from the Spot. Thefe Barrjcadoes are alfo ufed by the Indians, when they are Travelling either alone or two together, from one Part to another. How far Pecency might caufe thefe Indians to cloath themfelves, does not appear ; but it might be that and the Nature of the Climate •, for though the Boys are admitted to go almofl: naked, until they are ten Years old or more, the Girls wear a Frock, fuch as will be mentioned here- after, quite from their Infancy. To make their Cloaths of Skins, was not only a Thing plain and obvious in itfelf, as well as fuitable ; but they are under a Neceflity of fo doing, as thofe Parts fupplied nothing elfe which would anf • ie Purpofe •, and their Induftry taught ^dv:.ih lo make the Skins foft and pliable, and to be clear of that StifFnefs which would make them in a man, uer unferviceable. This Kind of Cloathing was in U^c amongft all Nations in the earlieft Times ; fiiid iuey agreed with the Indians not only in Ufe, put alio the Form they made the Skins up in. The Difcovtry (fa North-Wefi Pajfage. 187 The Indians have a large iquare Outer-Coat, Novemb. much like a Blanket in Shape and Size, made ei- ther of Deer Skin, or a Parcel of Beaver Skins (ewed together. It hangs loofe from the Shoul- ders, trailing along the Ground, and is tied a-crofs the Bread: with two Strings j the Part that is be- hind I 'ie Neck, and on the Shoulders lay in Rolls j fomccimt;> they fet it up hollow behind like a Cope i at other Times it lies flat like a Cape hanging Part down each Arm. It is painted on the Leather Side of the Skins with Strokes of Red and Black, like a Border, near to the Edge or outer Part of the Coat, round the Bottom, and fomc Way up the Sides. This outer Coat is all chipped, or hanging in Thongs of about an inch Width, and three Inches long, thofe at the Bottom % but thofe up the Sides, and nearer die Head, lefs % fomc of which they alfo paint ltd. The beft drefled People, in the earlieft Times, were thofe who wore the Skins of Beaft, V^ich they had taken amongft their Herds, or that they had killed in the Chace. They were a long Time the Royal Mantle of Princes, and the Ornament of Heroes. Hercules was not dreflfed otherwife than in the Skin of a Lion o^Nemea, One f. Lib.rr.Geor. « Ditl Sicul. Lib. I. c. 7. Skins i r' .. r it. M .■ m i: , •^ 4 I II 'M ' d ilil! **« '1' » r iV-r - 1^0 ^ y flf ¥ A o « j>r /i^ Novemb. Skins j as they do with Moufe Skins. Befidcs thus mduiaging the Skins, the Ancients ^ifo* like QjOf indtsm^ u&d to fet ofiT or ornament them ) which confifted either in the Manner of cutting them* chipped or hanging in Thongs as ¥Fe have defcrihfid the xndians 5 or in the Figures whidi they drew upon them, or the Colours i^eh they painted them with> in which alfo they agree with our Indians^ who, as mentioned, have like a red Of black Border figured near the Edge of the Coftt, and paint the Thongs which are at the Bottom, and in Part up the Sides* > The People of I^Ha appear to be the lirft who have fet this Art in Ulige, which wc learn firom Heredotus, when he tells us that the Creeks borrowed the fiabit and thsyEgis of the Statues of Minerva from the l^lnans of Numidia^ mth this Difference, that to the jEgis of die I^inan Women, the pendant Fringes, are noi: Serpents but Ample Thongs ; but, as to the reft, the Drefs is the fame •, and the Name itfelf fhews, that the Habit of the Statues of Minerva is borrowed origipally from the Lybian Drefs *, for the Wo- men of Lybia have, more than of any other Thing their Garments of the ^gees, that is, they are of the 94 ui V o Y AG E/or the If-' , •♦ ■ *:*. Noveinb. ^s to the Fafhion of their Cloaths, they ftill re- tain the fame, but have changed the Materials fince their Acquaintance with the Faaoriesi for their Tockies, they often ufe Blankets, and they who winter near the Fadories have generally Cloath Stockings: They have alfo acquired a Cuftom of wearing Caps made of Woollen Cloth, and of an oblong Form, fewed up on one Side, and at one End with a Piece of Tinfel round the Part next to the Face, or a Piece of Worfted Lace 5 and at the Corner which will be upon the Crown of the Head a Bit of Rabbits Down fewed on, or a red Feather. Thofe /Ww«j who come down to trade will alfo buy Tinfel, laced Hats with a dyed Feather ftuck up in them, they will buy Woollen Coats made after the Englijh Manner, trimmed with Worfted Lace. 1 he Hair on the right Side of the Head they cut quite clofe, and the Reafonfeemstobe, that their Hair might not be in theWayupon their taking Aim. This was the Cuftom of many Nations, but the MaJ/ici, who boafted their Defcent from the Trojans, had their Hair fo cut on the left Side -, there was great Di- ftindion amongft the Ancients as to the Tonfure, and it was expredy forbid the Jews to make any Baldnefs on their Heads, The left Side of the Hair is left long and ga- thered up in a Knot, which hangs as low as the Ear, juft on the Summit of the Crown a Lock is tied up and ftands about three Inches above the Head, Difcovery of a North-Weft Pajfage. 1 95 Head, like a Feather-, but this is rather the Novemb. Fafhion of the yoiing Men, and feldom amongft thofe who are advanced in Years. Some wear round their Heads Fillets as narrow as Tape, made of green or red Worfted, with two Borders of Beads, with which they tie up their Hair alfo that is on the left Side, and the two Ends of the Fillet hang down upon the left Shoulder. Others have Wreaths of Skins, as Cats Skins round their Heads, others a Band made of an Herb like Box which they fmoak with their Tobacco; fome have Birds, fuch as Ravens or Hawks, llit and fpread, fo put upon the Crown of their Head, with the Head of the Bird over their Forehead. Thefe Bands round the Head feem originaUy to be for no other Purpofe, but, as they were with- out other Covering on their Heads, to keep their Hair tight and dole, that it might not be trou- blefome by the Blowing of the Wind ; it is ob- fervable, the Women never wear thefe Bands. The ancient Ufe of thefe Bands is evident from the Fauns, the Satyrs, the Sylvan Gods, and the Followers of Bacchus being crowned with them ; and » Pliny particularly mentions, Fcrunt que\ primum omnium Liberum Patrem impofuijfe ,apiti^ fm ex edera : Bacchus as the firft that wore one of Ivy round his Head. Thefe Bands became in Time a Mark of Diftinaion and Refpea:, and were given as a Recompence to thofe who carried the Prize at the Feafts inftituted in Honour of the • Plin, Lib. xvi. c. 4. C C 2 -,..;.iH !• I t*; Jl Gods.- m fo' ■;■.,) kJ^ J, M (^ IS' ■*'•'*. Ki-.-'f, ■■■•'■■■ 156 [4 y OY AG^ for the Novemb. Gpds. The Romans j the Enemies of Kings, had many Sorts of thefe Crowns, for to acknow- ledge the different Services done to the Re- publick ; this Way of Reward being introduced amongft them by Romulus their Founder, he crowning Hojius Hojiilius^ the Grandfather of Julius Hojiiliusy for being the firft Man that en- tered the Town of Fidena with a green Wreath v and thefe Bands or Crowns at length became the diftinguifliing Mark of Royalty. They will greafe their Hair, ftick Feathers in their Hair, and ornament it with Bunches of Rabbits Hair, or Bits of Firr •, and alfo with Beads, or a Bit of white Stone which they find in thefe Parts, and polifli until it much refcmbles white Glafs. The Women wear their Hair long on both Sides, reaching to their Shoulders, which they part on the Top, and will fometimes tie it up in Bunches on each Side their Face ; at other Times it hangs loofe ; they greafe their Hair as the Men do, ftick Bits of Firr in it and Beads, and paint it red, which is a Practice alfo with the Men. The Women wear round their Necks Neck- laces of three or four R ows of Beads, which hang down almoft as low as their Breafts ; fome wear large narrow Rings of Brafs, and at each Ear will have eight or ten Strings of fmall Beads which fhall reach to their Shoulders, which Beads they procure at the Faftories. The Men as well as Difcovery of a NortlhWeft Pajfage, i^f as the Women have their Ears pierced, as alfo Novemb. their Nofci Men will have frequently a Bit of Firr, which is of fome extraordinary Kind, hang* ing to their Ear by a Bit of String •, others have Ear-Rings made of Beads, of a white Stone, which we have mentioned, polilhcd, and Bits of Brafs. Some will have, through the Grizzle of their Nofe, a String with a Bit of Copper about the Size of a Sixpence hanging to it, of a trian- gular Form i others a Pipe-Bead of about twa Inches long, and two fmall Beads at the End of fuch Pipe-Bead ; this which is fo pendant from the Nofe flaps on the upper Lip, and you may fee them fometimes reach at it with their Tongues. Thefe Ornaments of the Nofe are ufed by many Nations at this Time, and were formerly an Ornament of politer Nadons, as may be feen ex- pxefly in jj/tf/tf^, c. iii. v. 21.—^ Upon their Wrifts the Women wear Bracelets, which they get of Tin or Brafs, fince they have known the Fadoriesi are of about two Inches broad; they carve them themfelves, but thtir Workmanfhip is no Way extraordinary. The Men have Collars made of Cloth, with Beads or Bits of white Stone fewed on them -, both Men and Women have alfo Belts which they girt their Tockie up with, and fometimes wear upon their Frock, of four Fingers in Breadth, made of Porcupine Quills ; alfo of Beads run upon fmall Deer Guts, the OutfideoftheBeltLeathers and thefe Belts have at each End a Parcel of fmall Strips of Leather to make them fail. The 1 ! 11 ^ '"^1 ■ ! -^■•:-m 1 1 -i II 11 III III in j: J' "I*" ' ■ *;' i 'nil If* ...' '^ m M W: *»■■'■■.■'<,•: 198 NoTcmb. ffif '*■;,, iv'- < ' 1 WM "'i ., . ,■(■ i^^H ''''*'' " •^, BP ^^Ki'' ' ' ^R^' ; ... TOf: ■■'■■ "f 111 *'•*■ ' '' ^ V Y A G E y^r tbe The Bracelets and Ear-Rings were very an- cient, Abraham^ Servant prefents them to Re- hecca-, the Jews borrow Ear-Rings of the Egyp- ttans^ but, in the Judgments threatened hylfaiab* againft the Jews, there is Mention of taking away the Chains and the Bracelets, the Head- bands and the Ear-Rings, the Nofe- Jewels. 6ff . The Per/tans wore a Collar about their Necks, and Bracelets on their Arms, and that the Collars were in Ufe amongft the Gauls is evident from the Account given of Manlius Torquatus, who was named Torquatus from Torques a Collar, which Anno U, C. 393- he took from the Gene- ral of the Gauls whom he had killed -, and Pliny ^ tncntions the Roman Ladies wearing Gold Brace- lets, Rings on all their Fingers, Gold Neck- laces, or Collars, Ear-Rings, and other Orna- ments. The Men and Women paint their Faces as well as their Hair, fometimes colouring half their Face with Vermilion, which they procure at the Faaories; Red being their favourite Colour ; at other times only make Strokes with their Fingers dipped in the Vermilion down their Nofe, or crofs their Face, juft as they fancy, without any Order or Method. What keeps the Paint on is the Greafe, with which they anoint their Face before they lay the Paint on; fometimes * V«ia^, Lib. Hi. 19, 70, 31. h pii„. Lib. xxxiii. c. 3. the var:- -y mo^'ry of a Nortb-Weft Paffage. .„ the Men colour their Faces with Ri,.i, i j «/ . wlilch is a Sign of their t ^ ^^' '***"*• of tl>eir Hunfer a^ it "? *"^' ''^ '^ Tk- »^- . 6cr. and when they go to conjure The M.«,um or red Paint was fo much efte^m^ pauued thTs^S'-of 5Zl^ ^»y^;'>^y we uty m Triumph with Minium. >> Thev pam^d m the fame Manner all the StatuI 7f he Gods, of the Demi-Gods, of the H^le^ the Fauns, and the Satyrs : and what is eviS cxpreffed in thofe Verfes of Virgil, ' ' they went to War. to paint their B^LhM white, and half black: It was tlTra rSetfS-^°'''«'^°^*^"-^e^^^^^^ ?;rrtK;ruSrr:d'-^ &W ?ifr r^^^"T' ^-'"Ponthe H'l'd^, and the yellow- haired^|.,^/^"7; \^- ^ ?;; I'rf '* m •■.*; ;< 1*-' It' '•■ ■ ' \.H- i !:.'(>:,■■■ 1 ,^. r'.> ■:->'■; .»i xoo j^ Voyage for the Novemb. Pi^s aiid fcvcral other Nations painted them- felvcs. On the Triumphs of the Romans, which were 35 the Reprefentation of Jupiter in his Glory, the Conqueror, going to the Capitol to facrifice to that God, appeared in his Car, his Face painted with Vermilion. Camillus triumphed in that Sort according to » Pliny, and St. J/tdore of Seville fays it was obferved by all, who were decreed that Honour. This kind of Painting, which we have been fpeaking of, wears off, and requires frequent Renewing, but there is another kind of Painting pradifed by the Indians, whofc Country is North- Weft of Churchill Faftory, whither they come to trade, and the common Appellation given them is that of the Northern Indians ; they will have feveral Strokes in their Cheeks, the Colour being in the Flefh, black and much after the Manner of thofe Marks which are fo com- monly made upon People's Arms with Gunpow- der never to be removed. It is from this kind of Painting the Pi^s had their Name, that Name fays St. I/tdore of Seville, perfeftly agrees with the Figure which their Body makes, which the Workman paints, by Graving many Figures with many fmall Pricks, which he makes with » Needle, and in which he infufes the Juice of Plants that grow in their Country, to the End « Pliny, Lib. xxxiii. c.7, ^\,Motun deSauvages, p. 39- , ' that Difcovery of a North-Weji Pajfage. 20I that, their Nobles being marked upon all the Novemb. Members of their Body, they may diftinguifli themfelves from the Commonality by the Num- ber of the Charafters. Solinus fpeaks of the fame People, much after the fame Manner as St. Ifi- dore^ but the Northern Indians having no Di- ftinftion of Rank amongft them, being all equal, there is not that Diflference in the Marks, as amongft the PiSis ; as to their Nobility, what hath been mentioned is only to fhew a Sort of Agreement in the Manner of their Painting in general. This kind of Painting, which Vsxhtr Lajiiau calls the Cauftick, became difufed amongft the politer People, and only retained by the Barba- rians ; it was looked on infamous amongft the Ro- wans, they Branding their Slaves and Criminals with Marks of the fame Nature. The Indians, whom we have* mentioned to paint their Frocks and their Tockies, ufe no other Art than taking a Stick, the End of which they dip in Goofe-Greafe, and afterwards in the Colour, and then Paint, which remains for a long Time before wore ofFi they only draw Lines of black and red, not attempting to deli- neate any Beaft or any kind of Animal -, the red and black have been the two Colours always in Ufe amongft them, and before they were fup- plied by the Fadtories with the Vermilion and black Lead, they got their red Colour from t) d fome '■ff'M! I ■ Its R.fM' ■' M" : t ■ '■- ml Jl";.'"^"|' ■"Jr.' '• ■ ' •. l.V:«. ' . ao« :4 VpYAG "E forthe Novcmb. fomc Weeds which grew in the Mud, in Lakes or Rivers, and their black they had from a Mi- neral or a Stone, which Stones are frequently to be found by thofe who know them. I believe it will appear from what hath been faid, that there is a great Uniformity in the Ha- bits which the Indians ufe, and thofe which were ufed by the People of the earlieft Times, not in one Part of the Drefs only, but through the whole of it; but as the People became more polite as Kingdoms and Empires arofe, and Arts and Sciences increafed : From thence proceeded an Alteration, both in Cuftom and Drels, from the State of Nature to that which was more fuitable to their prefent Circumftance. But, as this hath not been the Cafe of thefe Indians, they have not made any confiderble Alteration in the Manner of their Life, but trod in the Steps of their Anceftors ; fo they have had no Occafion either to change their Habit or Cuftoms ; as the following them was moft fuitable with their Manner of Life. It is impoflible to conceive that there can be fo great Uniformity of Drefs and Cuftoms, as there is between thefe People ^nd the moft antient, or the People of the earlieft Times, without their being originally one and the fame People; and as the People either in Europe, J/ta, or America, were the firft and earlieft People in thofe Parts with whom they fo ^r*r^P \n tUpW Drpfs- or fhpir Cuftoms ; that IS an Evidence of the early Departure of thefe People Difcovery bf a f^ortihtTeji Paffage. ^q^ People into America. I fpeak as to the Kinjki Novemb'. Indians in particular, whom t apprehend from their Manners to be the firft Comers, and to have been drove to the Northward by later Settle- ments. Marriage is in Ufe amongfl: thefePeop!e> fat as to that chimerical Community, there is no Rea- ion to believe it ever fubfifted. Cecrops, who is I'eprefented in profane Hiftory, might bring it under fome better Regulation, with Refpefb to the People he govered, and fubftitute Solemni- ties at the Cbiitrafting of thefe Alliances, and in- ftitute Monogamy, or the having but one Wife ; but profane Hiftory alfo tells us of Marriage prior, iiiftituted by Jupiter, who hath his Wife Juno. Marriage, with Refped: to thefe Indians^ carries an Intereft with it, which induces thefe Indians, and muft have induced all People in the fame Circumftance of Living ; the fecuring to themfelves Children, who would be a Preferva- tive for them againfl: Waht in their old Age. And, in this Senfe, Children might well be ac- counted Riches. The Indian v/ho hath Children hath fo many to hunt for him, when he is him* felf incapable, and without which he might be liable to ftarve. therefore it is apparent, that amongft thofe People who lived by the Chace, and amongft whom it is pretended this Commu- nity was ufcd, it could never be ; by reafon that appropriating a Wife would have greater Advan- tages. The Community again would be fuch a I^ d 2 State If I,"' i' ^B i Hi lit ' , ( If- •' M J" 'i lil- 1 4J04 ^ Vo y A G E y^r /i&^ Novemb. State as would be quite contrary to the Intereft of the Woman ; for whilft there was a Commu- nity, and no Marriage, fhe would have no Dc- pendance as to her being maintained •, (he could not hunt for herfelf, nor promife herfelf to fharc in that which b catched by another -, but when (he became a Wife this would be fecured to her, and there would be a further Obligation on the Man to maintain her, as the Children ftie Ihould have would belong to her -, and if feparated would go with her, and he would lofe the Benefit of them. This is fufficiently fhewn by the People whofe Manners we are fpeaking of, and which , will be made apparent as we proceed. The poetical Gentlemen and fome ancient Au- thors reprefent the People in the earlieft Times, not only ignorant of Arts and Sciences, but will not allow them common Underilanding, or a Knowledge fuperior to Brutes •, they defcribe them without a Capacity to condud themfelves better than thefe Animals ; they feed them on Acorns and Roots •, lodge them in Dens ; allow them the Enjoyment of the fofter Sex promifcu- ouQy ; make them void of all Virtue and Rea- fon, until there comes fome Law- giver or other, who infufes Virtue and Reafon, and forms a re- gular Society. Had we not facred Hiftory, which flicws the contrary, the leaft Reflexion would deted the Falfhood of it ; would not let • us doubt but that they had Reafon fufficient to dif- cern between what was convenient, and what was not Difcovery of a North-Wefi Paffage, 205 not fo, to diredt them in the Means propereft to Novemb. attain their neceflary Ends, fuch as proper Food and Cloathing, and the other Neceffaries of Life 5 and after that they had found by Experience thofe which were beft, would purfue. And I beUeve this will be found the fame upon Inqui- ry, amongft all People called Barbarous People, not only with Refpedt to th^ Jndians I am treat- ing of, that thofe People who are otherwife cir- cumftanced do not aft more reafonably in their Affairs than what the barbarous People do in theirs. And as this Cafe of Community appears contradiftory to the Way of Life thefe Indians are in, we may judge it was equally the fame with thofe People, in the earlieft Times, who were circumftanced like them. The young Women are intirely, in Refpedb of Marriage, direded by their Parents ; they (hew no Inclination or Forwardnefs to Marriage, or any particular Regard to any young Indian. Pa- rents will often agree for the Marriage of their Children, before one of them fhall be born, con- ditionally 5 that if it is a Girl your Wife is with Child with, my Son fhall marry her. Afterwards if a Girl is born, he who hath the Son will take the Girl Home, and maintain her until fhe is marriageable. Others contrad for the Marriage of the Daughter not eight or ten Years old, and the intended Hufband will take her to his Tent, and keep her until fuch Time as fhe is grown up. A brifk ,jfn , 'km m m IP .11 <\T. m i I 11, 2o6 ^Voyage J or the .;i> !{■■■'' U.1 •. !*■. >' N,!" *4 1 Novemb. ^ ^^ young Fellow, and a good Hunter, never fears the not getting of a Wife. He ap- pHes to the Father of her whom his Intention is itpon, or her Brother, if Head of the Family, afks his Confcnt, and makes him a Prefent, after the Nature of the Country, of Beaver, or other Firs. The Confent obtained, he comes to the Tent at fuch Time as the Woman is there, and tofles into her Lap a Prefent, which, if near the Faftories, is generally of a Piece of Cloth; her Acceptance of this, a Confent. The Marriage is then concluded, and the Contra^ paflcd. Upon which he afterwards comes, of a Night, to the Woman, and lies under her Tockie ; is admit- ted to take hold of her Hand, fmgs to her, and, perhaps, pays fcveral of thefe Vifits before (he fpeaks to him. Sometimes the Man, after the Woman's Acceptance of the Prefent, will take to Hunting along with the Family Ihe belongs to, and continue in the fame Tent. It will be a Month or two before there is a Confummation of the Marriage ; the Time of which is always a Secret to every one but themfelves. It is generally ufaal for the Husband to carry his Wife to the Father's Tent, or where he lived before amongft his own Relations, or fet up a Tent of his own •, though fometimes they ftay with the Wife's Relations. No Feafts are made, "* *-"^ A i"«t ui tuc v^uiiiriici: or iViamage, or at the Confummation. But, fometimes when the l>ifcovery of a fhrth-WeJi Paffage. 297 the Husband takes the Wife away, if he hath had Novemb. an Opportunity to kill any thing, to make a Feaft with, he wilj then do it, to entertain the Wife'jj Relations and Acquaintance. The Simplicity of thefe Marriages are not with- out Example, both in facred and profane Hifto- ry. The Behaviour of Abimelecb to Rebecca ?ind Family have Circumftances fimilar to what hath been mentioned. Tacitus fpeaking of the Man- ners of the Germans^ mentions fomething very pertinent to what has been faid ; Says to theHuf- band the Wife tenders no Dowry, but the Huf- band to the Wife. The Parents and Relations attend, and approve of the Prefents -, not Pre- fents adapted to Feminine Pomp, nor fuch as ferve to deck the new married Woman ; hut Qxen, and a Horfe accoutred, and a Shield with a Javelin and Sword. By Virtue of thefe Gifts fhe is efpoufed. The Woman, on the other hand, makes the Man a Prefent of fome Arms. This is the Whole of the Marriage ; thefe are the only Ceremonies which attend it. Better,. fays the fanie Author, ftill do thofe Communi- ties in which none but Virgins marry, and their Views and Inclinations are only to be a Wife So they take one Hufband, as th/ey have one Body, and one Life, without a Thought be- yopd i no furtiier Defires ; nor is it having the Hufband, but thj? State wfeich they admire. mm 1 The 20S AV OY AG'E for the Novemb. >^-H ;:•.« ■■,«■■'.: ; .H r*.:i The Confequenccs of thefe Marriages are a ftrift Alliance between the Hufband and theWife's Relations; and, reciprocally, between the Wife's and the Relations of the Hufband, as to their af. filling each other. When an Indian finds he is a fufHcient Hun- ter, able to maintain more than one Wife, he will then procure himfelf a Second, and, perhaps, a Third 5 a Number which they feldom exceed. There fcems no Superiority or Diftindtion amongft them, or Difference as to firft or laft married ; all equally contribute to the Work of the Tent ; have no Jealoufies or Quarrels ; but if the Indians go Abroad to vifit fome other Tent, he ufually takes theyoungeft with him. As to their Children there is never any Difference. The eldeft Son (whether by the firft or fecond Wife) at the Death of the Father, becomes the Head of the Family. The principal Reafon of Poligamy amongft thefe Indians feems to confift in the Expefbation of a Number of Children. But it is obfervable amongft thefe Indians, though the Women are of a vigorous Conftitution, that they have not many Children. There is no Proportion in the Num- ber of Children of thefe People to what muft have been formerly in other Parts, and efpecially in the North of £«r<»ptf, from whence came thofe InUndationiQ nf Rarharian?. whn frpniimntltr ratmor- ed, and afterwards ruined the Roman Empire. As hiS'h Difcovery of a North-Weft Paffaga •2091' As to Divorces, if the Perfon whom her Pa- Novcmb; rents have recommended is not agreeable to the Woman, fhe will quit him, and go to her Pa rents, who will never oblige her to return, but marry her to fome other ; and fometimes if the Husband and Wife do not agree, or the Husband does not maintain the Wife, fhe will go to an- other Indian, who will take her as his Wife • and if Ihe hath a Child or Children, Ihe takes [hem with her, as they are her Riches, her Security for future Maintenance ; the Husband muft be con- tent, except (as I am informed) amongft th. Northern Indians, he will go and battle the Man that the Wife is gone to, and if he beats will bring her back again. Sometimes the Husband will leave the Wife, and then fhe muft depend on her Relations. But it is feldom, when once they have had Children, that thefe Divorces happen. The Law of Romulus, that a Wife fhould not leave her Husband, fcems to allude to fuch a Cuftom as here mentioned. The Cuftom of the Wife going to the Relations, when feparated from the Husband, and the Reafon of her taking her Child with her, explains what is faid in facred Hiftory oiHagar, and takes from that Severity which Sarah is fuppofed to be guilty of, in pro- pofing her being expofed to ftarve in the De- fert, no more being intended than a Separation irom the Tent, and her cmmtr i-^^ ^.^^ n-i- tions. The whole Tenor of the Story, the more £ c it ■«i L I '!< I; i "!i!j< 'a"j1 4 rv w "•y. ?J •■■A ^lo A ^ OS h^% for the Novemb. it is confidered, the more it will fupport this Conje^ ^rc^fit ^a Cra^/Zle^. \\-\ i w ^1 t S 4 >.l ' Difcovery of a Isforth-Weji Tajfage, 2 1 3 Their PafTion for Ornament is fo greai:, that Novemb. they do not omit it with relpcd to their Children, a Child of five Months old, will have a Wire through its Nofe, with a Bead fixed to it ; and Strings of Beads upon its Wrifts. When they arc paired the Ufe of the Cradle, the Mother then in journeying from Place to Place carries thqm at her Back; This Manner of letting the Children wear little Cloathing, and the Boys to be in Summer quite naked in the Tents, is the Prafticc until they are grown up. They feem in the fira Part of their Time to be under the Care of the Mother-, they, as foon as able, do little Offices about the Tent, after- wards learn to Trap and Fifh with her, alfo pradife with a Bow and Arrow at the Shooting of fmall Birds, and, as they grow up, become Hunters and afliftant to the Family. This Education, how fimple it may feem, is all that they want -, and anfwers their Purpofe to procure fuch Supplies and Necefl:aries of Life, both for themfelves and others, as they are con- tent with ; and is attained without Correction, for Indians never beat their Children. They have an extreme Tendernefs for them, equal to any Europeans ; but do not exprefs it in fuch Carefles, or other Shews of Affedion, as is ufual amongft fond Parents, efpecially to Children when young. They are docile, behave well to thofc- •-I'il i| J ■ ': 4 1 i ;i 214 lifVoYAOfi for the Novemb. thofe in the Tent with them, and fhew Obe- dience to their Parents j and afterwards for the moft Part turn out in Life, regular and virtuous. The Indians themfelves fay, that as "^ the Fault« they commit when young, they have not Rea- fon, and, when they grow older, they will have Reafon, and will follow its Didates, and corred their Follies. \;\rt I forgot to obferve in the proper Place, that, when an Indian Woman is with Child, fhe ob- ferves no Difference, attends to the fame Fa- tigue. , and fuppofes it alfifts her Labour and ftrengthens the Child •, when the Time of her Delivery is, fhe is attended by others, and the Men quit the Tent, or Ihe is feparated ofF by a Curtain of Moufe Skin : Their Labours are eafy, and the next Day the Woman will be abroad in the Woods with her new-born Child at her Back, to get her Fuel, and purfues her ufual Bufinefs as before. Thefe Indians have no manner of Corn, Pulfc* or Roots in ufc amongft them ; probably becaufe they live by the Chace, which caufes a frequent Removal, and, being in fingle Families, have neither Opportunity to attend it, or Strength to cultivate it ; for it cannot be attributed to the Climate ; wild Corn being to be found even fo high to the Northward as Hays\ I (land, by York Fore. Their whole Subfiflancc is Fiefh, which they chiefly boil fo as to let the Gravy be in it -, the -a,"' Difcovery of a Nerth-JVefi Paffage. 215 the Northern Indians eat it almoft raw, and Novemb. blame the others faying, tbcyleflen their Strength by eating their Viduals fo much drefled as they do. They have now by Trade from the Fac- tories Brafs Kettles in which they boil, other- wife they make ufe of Nockins, which art of Birch-Bark, take a fquare Piece, nalh it at the four Corners fome Way in, then there are four Sides which they can fet up, and they few toge- ther with a Rim, round the Top they put an Edge of Porcupine Quills, thefe they make of various Sizes, and are frequently to be feen in England, The Northern Indians, who are not provided with Kettles, put Water in thefe make Stones .red-hot and put into this Water to heat it, ' and fo drefs their Meat : The other Indians alio ufe them who are not better provided, fetting them over the Fire, and they boil Water very well. They have round Platters made of Wood, which arc Che Knobs of Trees hollowed and fmoothed, both Infide and out, with a Beaver's Tooth, they have Cups alfo, with Handles made out of Knobs of Trees -, the Purpofe of Spoons and Knives is anfwered by their Hands: They have no fixed Times of J^ating, but are led by their Appetite. When they wanted to feparate the Parts of a Deer, before they knew the Euro^ peans, they ufed Inftruments made of Bone, and fliarp Stones, which they fattened with Thongs of Leather at the End of a cUft Stidt. til u 2l6 A Voyage for the ;"■«■?'■ ... V i 1 vV;!* w% Novemb. If they roaft their Provifion, it is by running a pointed Stick like a Skewer through it, and (tick- ing one End in the Ground clofe by the Fire •, they eat the Entrails of all, either Filh or Birds, efpecially if Provifion is fhort ♦, and which they are not very nice in cleaning. From the Meats they boil they have the Advantage of the Broth, which they call SagamitCy and in Winter Weather fet it out in the Kettle to freeze till it becomes Ice, and fo portable Soop. From the Severity of the Winter, they draw the Advantage of having their Provifion froze ; fo it is kept fweet, and is a ready Supply as they want J though it happens amongft fome of the Indians^ that, fo long as they are in PofTefllon of any Provifion, they will not feek for more •, the Corfequence of which is, perhaps, a Falling for a Time, but this they will bear with a furprifing Patience, and without Complaining -, and they have alfo, when they cannot fucceed in Hunting, a kind of Referve, which is their Dogs, of which there are generally fome belonging to every Tent, Thefe they kill, and a Dog is reckoned at all Times as a great Delicacy. The Way of flaugh- tering the Dog is, the tying the Mouth, then taking a ftreight Awl and prick it into the Heart ; afterwards fingeing him, then roafting him intire. Entrails and all before the Fire : It is faid where Dogs have failedy and no Provifion was to be f?"Ot, there have been Inftances, but thefe thought very Decomes Dlfcovery of a North-Weji Pajfage, 217 very extraordinary, of thefr deftroying their Nfivemb. Children, and of Wives deftroying their Huf- bands and eating them -, but thefe Afts are done in Extremity, and through a prefling Necefllty ; fome Times when they can get no Provifion, they will live on the inner Bark of Juniper and Firr Trees. In Summer and in Spring, and Avhen the Weather is not frofty, they have a Way of pre- Icrving their Provifion, by taking out the Bone, then parboiling it, and afterwards drying it in the Smoak ; they will alfo fmoak-dry Fifh. Are never wanting in Hofpitality to each other, ^len they come to a Tent, they will give them of what they have ; but this Ceremony is ob- ferved, that they never go into a Tent, though they are the neareft Relations to thofe who in- habit it, as a Brother or Sifter, but ftand on the Outfide until invited in by thofe in the Tent. If they have great Succcfs in Hunting, and they have Neighbours about them, then they will make a Feaft, upon which a Stick is fent to every one, who it is defired Ihould come j this IS to the Men, every one brings his Difh with him, they all fit down upon the Ground in a round, being there fome Time before the Viftuals is ready, filling that Time with a Converfation of their Country and of their Travels ■, the Sir>- per is prepared by the Mafter of the Tent, Tnd, i-i •*/■ •1 Pi m^ m m m I 1.7'. ViJ; m--p WJh II |l'-" ■ 0-1 K-1 |;4 • :.;? 2i8 A y OY AQ E for tbe Novemb. when ready, he gives it to one of the Company to ferve out, which is a Mark of Efteem 5 per- haps that Perfon gives it to another thinking him more worthy of the Honour v he that ferves, fings, telling them there is Provifion in Plenty, they muft eat heartily, and they are all welcome, or to thatEffedi they then all thank him, which is done by expreffing the Word Obo, the ufual Thanks of thefc People. The Fat is poured amongft the Meat, and afterward they eat the Sagamiie, or what it is boiled in, and eat until they cry out, I have enough -, the Women are fcldom invited, but they come, creep under the Side of the Tent behind their Hufbands, and they get as much as the Men -, what is left of any Man's Eating, it is not returned, but he carries it Hoir They have no Bread as mentioned be- fore, but they have dried Deer's Fat, much af- ter the Manner of Lard, which they eat as Bread, after the Eating, they go to Singing, and then put an old Man in the Middle, clearing the Fire away, who beats on a kind of a Drum, and then they go to Dancing ; fometimes it is a Feaft of raw Meat -, then, after Thanks, they take it up and carry it Home -, they have no Liquor at thefe Feafts but Water, or the Sagamite, which they may as well drink as eat -, fo they cannot be intemperate, they knowing nothing of ftrong Liquors until their Acquaintance with the Ruro- peaans. * As to the Sagamite or Broth, when Gideon entertained the Angel, he is faid to put ^Judgr, Ch. vi. v, 19. the ill .ill; Difcovery of a North-Weji Pajjage, 2 1^ the Flefh in the Balket, and the Broth in a Novemb. Pot. Thefe Feafts are generally made on no other Account but Plenty •, they have no particular Days, no Commemorations, all Days are to them the fame, nor do they regard Births or Marriages, except if the Hufband chance to have a Plenty of Game, when he is going to take his Wife Home, he may make a Treat to her Friends as hath been mentioned, and before they go to War. The Feafts amongft the ^Egyptians were cele- brated with great Temperance, and it was in common amongft other People, as * Father !.«- ftau (hews on good Authority ; and it is certain that the Perfians^ only drank Water in his Time according to the Account oi Herodotus. Thefe Feafts are with that Simplicity as the reft of their Cuftoms •, when their Bellies are full, they are in high Spirits. The Women enliven the Con- verfation, they get to Singing and then to Dancing; there are many who have feen amongft , politer People Feafts determined in that Manner. Their Singing is very Mean, and the Subjed ufually compofed as it is uttered, and confifts of a few Words often repeated, which will be Thanks to the Party who entertains them, or « Momrs dt Sauvages Tom, II, P. 191. F f 2 about ■-i ' 'I m ■• -J ii 111 li M ij!''''.""'! I. .'H* I'!. l-r. ' ' 1 1 i^ 220 .// Vo y A o E /<>r /i&^ NQvioib. about Hunting, or that there will be a good Goofe Seafon, or fomething equally trifling •, and they will all be finging at one Time, then danc- ing ; the Dancing chiefly eonfifts in the Motion of their Feet, fturring them along the Ground, without any- Adivity or Motion of the Body, or any lifting up of the Feet •, the Head is inclined, and they hang down their Arms. The Ifraelites, after they had adored the Gol- den Calf, fat down to eat and drink, and rofe up to play, that is, to dance and fing, according to the Interpreters ; and, we may fuppofe, it was after the Fafhion of the Egyptians whom they were now imitating, as to their Idol, There is a great Similitude between thefe Feafts and thofe infl:ituted by Lycurgus. The Manners he eriablifhed amongfl: his People were thofe of the Ifle of CretCy who were themfelves but Co- . piers from others ' . At thefe Fcafts none but Men were entertained j each contributed, but he who had extraordinary Succefs in the Chace was obliged to furnilh the Feaft with a good Part of his Game. Every one had originally his parti- cular Difli, but that was afterwards altered j and the Perfon who provided, diftrihuted, and gave that which was efteemcd as the moft favourite Pieces to thofe who were moft diftinguifhable, either for their Prudence in Councils, or Bravery * Herol Lib, I. XT ;zo. in ii3 Difcovery of a North-Weji Paffage. ^a i in Adion, or their Exercife in the Schools. And Novemb. the DecUration of the Pcrfon who diftributes, , there being a Plenty of Provifion, ^c. is not un- hke that Proclamation made at the Feaft ofiv* curgus, of the Name of hioi who makes the Feaft, of the Realon of it, and which wa$ for him a Sub- ject of Praifefor his indefatigable Application to the Chace, his Readinefs to bear Fatigue, and that every one was fenfible of the great Affeaion he had for his Country, and his Generofity to his Fellow-Citizens. The Manner of the Mian Feaft will be plainly perceived in this Feaft of the Spartans, with juch Alteration a« the Piffer- e-ice of Circumftance had made j but the ftrong Lines of the other are plainly to be fccn through all the Shading, whence they came : And as the Spartan Laws were copied, in Part, from the Cre- tans, and their own Alterations confidered, it would not have been ftrangc if thefe Feafts had retained lefs of what was feemingly the ancient Manner of Feafting, and by them ufed before they formed themfelvcs into a Government. The Manner of the Singing, and, amongft the Indians, Dancing, is in itfelf mean, and not well to be underftood, but by either the Hearing one, or having the Sight of the other. Their Mufick is equally mean. Their Drum, or Tam- bour, is a Skin ftretched tight over the Mouth of a Kettle, or any thing that will yield a Sound, *nd it is beat with a Stick, 11 •4 n I Father 1 \i\- 22S ^Voyage for the s>r r ,'^'S I > ^ \* b 1 I. J,'*.' J Novemb. Father Lafitau obfcrves that, * " amongft the •* Number of Inftrumeiits invented, it is difficult *« to determine which were.thofe that were firft '« inftituted ; they having had various Changes, •* according to the Times, and the Tafte of the *• People. Moreover, they have had different *' Names, and they continued to give thefe ** Names fuccefliveiy to feveral Inftrumeiits *' which they had fubftituted in the room of the •' former. cc «* But thofe, nevcrthelefs, which they figure in the Orgies oi Bacchus ^ and the Mother of '* the Gods, appear to be but two Sorts, of which ** the moft ancient Authors give us any Ac- " count. i5 -it hit" T Novemb. I/z//w, and Other People of £«r^/>^, the Revival of it is looked on as an cnti^-c new Pi aftice or In- vention, or a* what hath never been done before. Pliny fays ftsfRciently to let us know that the Pipe and Smoaking wtrc not unknown in his Time ; and that they were ufed phyficaUy, on certain Occafions. He inftancesthis in a Remedy againft Melancholy, and his Words are very decifivc » : •* Pimt quoqnearidiy fid pabulowiridi pujio bove^ ^* fumnm arnndint bauflum pndep tradunt,** ThcSmoak of the dried Dung of an Ox fed in a green Meadow, taken into the Mouth by a Reed, will be of great Service. * As to Smoaking, He- rvdvpjz^ rpcdting of the Maffagetes, who dwell by the AfMxiSy they have Trees, fays he, the Fruit of which is of fucti f, Nature, that being put into a Fire which they have madr, aixi which they cfoiii;! rouwS/they will be intoicicatcd by it, as the Grtiks whii Wine, and in Proportion as they caft it ifito the J^rt;, fo they wiu be more and more in- toxttipd, i^^at; Igjl they get up and fing and Gance*, ..,,. ,%. ,.t.- -> "What Hertdmis fays of thefe People, Pmpo- nms M^ sxi^^^oiinm fay tJie fame alfo of the '^^Cerjaii Tipple in . 7%rMe, fays Poniponius ' ,*^do iTojc fciDw the Ufe of Wine. Never- ^;^ thHcffe, >^tti they make aFeaft, they caft fome «. ^m^, Mela, Lib. ii. c. 2, de Thrada. *» Seeds t e Revival ice ot In- ne before, t the Pipe is Time ; n certain iy againft ecifivc * : »Jio bovBy raiunty \ fed in a )r a Reed, dfig, Hf- d^cll by 2 Fruit of ut into a ich they it, as the they caft more in- fing and , Pvmf9- fo of the oniponius Never- aft fome !,N. 2M. Seeds Difievery of a Nmh4Veft Pajfage, 325 Seeds into the Fire which they fit round, the Novemb. Odour of which will caufe a Lightncfs of Spirits almoft like to Drunkennefs. / In their Feafts, fays 5.^», they fit round the !• ire, Men and Women, and cafting fome Seeds of certain Herbs therein, and which they take the Smoak of, thinking Drunkennefs a Pleafure to have the.r Senfes quite gone, as is cuflomary with thofe who have drank too much Wine. J Sttabo, in his Defcription which he makes of the Manner of the Indians, fays, that every one carried always with him a Pouch full of medicinal Herbs. What Straho fays as to medicinal Herbs Car- ried by the Indians in a Pouch always about them It is agreeable to the Pradice c f the Indians, of carrying the Herb they fmoak in their Skippen- Torkin, or the Bag which they have with them, and in which they carry their Pipe, Flint, Steel, and Knife* ItwasChePrafticeofth8fe/„Ji;,„, to fooak Herbs, before they knew the Eur.pans, they 'iavingall their Tobacco from the Fadories with which now, as mentioned, they alfo mix Herbs It IS probable they had Pipes, by which they took ^ « their m My I ■n m i .Vv7 226 J V or AQ E for the Novemb. their Tobacco, before they had Trade with die Factory, as they have the Boles of Pipes, which they make themfelves, of Stone •, and the famous Pipe, or Calumet of Peace or War, or the great Pipe i they have a Tafte, as the T/jracianSy and fhe other People fpoke of, to receive Smoak up the Noflrils, as well as by the Mouth •, not as they break all their Pipes fhort, but as it is a Praftice amongft them to take a large Quantity of Smoak into their Mouths, then fhut their Lips clofc, and let the Smoak to come out by their Noftrils. 1 I. f '« m .AM' ■ ' 'Jli '111 The Pipe Part of the Calumet, is two Feet long, made of flrong Reed or Cane, amongft fome of the Americans j but amongft thefe Peo- ple, of Juniper, adorned with Feathers of all Colours, interlaced with Locks of Womens Hair. They alfo add to it two Wings of the moft ci-rious Birds they can find for Colour. The Head or Bole of this Pipe is of a red Stone polifhed like Marble, and bored in fuch a Manner as one End is for the Tobacco, and the other End faftens to the Pipe. This is the ge- neral Defcription of it i but they adorn the Calu- met varioufly, according to their Genius and the Birds they have in their Country. Father Hen- nepin, in his Account of America, tells us, *' this " Calumet, or Pipe, is a Pafs and fafeConduft »' amongft all the Allies of the Nation who have *« given it ; and in all Embaflies, the Ambulfa- *t dors carry that Calumet as the Symbol of *' Peace, wnitii i^ uiv/a^a rvipv-v^uvi , wi •■•«- — " vJ I 1. . _^ ^_ ^l. inai vjOu, Dciongs not to Vm Lalumec of the In- Gg ^iafjs ; ij N;l 228 ^ ji Yd r AG E for the Noverob. 4iam\ aridi^'bn the other hand, the Pipe, which ■•.•« is fo miterid'aTart iii the Calumet amongft the Indians J istiot known to belong to thcCaduceus. I "have already obferved, that the Indians them- felves Vary in the Ornaments of the Calumet, only agree in what is the moft Effential of it, dnd the Calumet agrees with the Caduceus in like. Manner in the moft effential Part, as the Staff and the Wings, which were all that was • received from Jpello, the Serpents being an Ad- dition afterwards. -• Thefe Indians have no Government ; every . Mafter of a Family is without a Superior. Like Inftances in the earlieft Times are too obvious to : reed any Quotation. But when they engage in a Voyage to Trade, feveral Families together, ' in fuch a mixed Company it is neceffary fonie one - ihould prefide j and alio for them to have a Guide itolhcw the Way. So if an Indian who is dif- tinguilhed for his being a good Voyager, and a •* fkilfui Traders prop®festo.bea Guide tc go down to trade with the Faftary, why then the other ^- Indians 'wWa join him, obey hii Directions during the Voyage, while at the Faftory, and upon their Return •, bu'c no longer does the Obligation con- '' tinue, Th*fe Leaders are called Captains by the Fadory People \ and ivhert. thefe Captains are down at the Faftory are prefented by the Gover- nors with a TJnfel- laced Coat, much like a Drum- mer's, with a Tiirfel-laced Hat, and a painted Treacher ituck in 11 1 win nave jc^^j^^jrj uLuv.n.iiig3 of Difcvoeryof aNortlhUyiPapge. ±2 of two Colours, and, perhaps, an Indian Shoe on Noremh. one Foot, and an Englijb one on the othek\ He is admitted into the Factory, which the other In- dians are not, and fmoaks with the Governor ; alfo is in the Room with the Governor at the Time of Trading, the other Indians receiving their Commodities at the Outfide of the Faftory, through a Window. All which Steps of the Cap- tain's are to make him appear confiderable in the Eyes of his Companions •, and thefe Favours they do not attain gratis. They are alfo Indians who are of diftinguifhed Merit, that are Captains of Rivers ; which is no more than that they are the leading Indianof the Indians about that River, or a Perfon whom the others confult in fuch Affairs as they think his Advice neceflfary in y and they will attend to what he at any Time may propofe, as to going in Par- ties to Hunt, to War, or to Trade ; but he is without Power to enforce what he would effeft ; they arc intirely free, as to any Ob^ience which he can demand of them \ all he can-do is only by the Efteerti which the People have f6r him -, that lefTened, his Authority is gonc'^' Where Murder is committed by one Indian on another, and theyoffeparate Families, there is no Remedy, or any W^y of bringing the Mur- derer to Juftice by^publick Authority -; all the Satisfat5tion that is taken is by a private Perfon, as the nearefl Relation of the Indian killed will feck i f 1!' iW: i \ L," » "I IN ' , I t « ' I ' ' ' 1 n [1. 1 .1> ! 230 . ji'VoY AGE for tie Novemb. feek an Opportunity, from a Bufh, to llioot the other Ifidian who did the Murder. Then a Re- lation of the Murderer will take an Opportunity to (hoot the Indian who killed the Murderer : The Relation of the laft killed will feek a like Opportunity to revenge his Death -, and, perhaps, it becomes, at Length, general, the Men of both Families taking all Opportunities to deftroy each the other ; and the Women, for Want of the Mens AfTiftance, are expofed to the utmoft Hardlhips to fupport the mfelves, and are often ftarved. The Manner of this Revenge bears fome Refemblance of what Cain feared after the Murder of ^<^^/. If the Pcrfon killed was of one Family, or of the fame Cabbin with that Peribn who killed him, thofe of the Family or Cabbin will take an Op- portunity, when the Indian who killed the other is drunk (at which Time all Indians are fuppofed to tell the Truth) to ask his Reafons for the Mur- der J if he fays he did it when drunk, cr can give a Reafon as that it was accidental, or what Ihewed it was not the EfFf^d of his Malice, he is confidered in the Tent as he was before j but if he cannot excufe himfelf, but it appears to be a malicious Aft, he is admitted ftill to live amongft them, but in fuch a defpifed Manner as it makes the R emainder of his Life wretched •, and there have been Inftances where they have not been able to bear with the Contempt, and have made themfelves away. » The Story of the Woman of • Z Sam. ch 14,, Difcovery of a North-Wefi^ Paffage. 231 Tekoa^ fent by joab to David^ to recal Abfalom^ Novemb. when in Exile, after the Murder of his Brother Jmmony fhews us there was fomething of this Law in Pra(5lice among the Jews ; that the Fa- milies had Cognizance of thefe Affairs. She feigns that fhe had two Sons, who quarrelled, and, in fuch Quarrel, one killed the other, and the furviving one, (he a "Widow, was the only- Child fhe had. The Relations they infifted, led by the Profped of the Inheritance, that the Mur- derer ihould be delivered up to them, that they might kill him, according to the Right which they had to do Juftice in this Cafe ; which obliged her to fly to the King, to hinder the Execution of their Intents, which would plunge her in. the greateft Afflidion, and reduce her to the extremell Want. Since their Acquaintance with the Europeans^ that thefe Indians could obtain Brandy, the Vice of Drinking is pretty frequent with them : but whatfoever is done by one to the other wheia drunk, even if one bites the odier's Nofe off, it is excufed, becaufe it was done when he was drunk, and no Malice is bore. Theft is very odious amongft them ; but the Indians will pradife, it when they come down to trade, if they can i and, if deteded, will be afraid that the other Indians fhould know it, on Account of the Scandal. I Befides 2St vf V o y A G E for the if J J'' W0 ■ ■.'« !■;'■"■' m mi J '■»' ■■'■' Nowmb. Befides the Captains there are two other Dif- tin^ons> the Dodors and Juglers. , ■ >■ ^ I I • ■ t- The Do«Stor affeds, and takes Care to fee thj Governor to fmoak with him, as well as the Captain does ; buys a little Trunk of Medj^ines, which Trunk is filled with Sugar-Plums, Spamjh Liquorice, and a Parcel of other Stuff much of the fame Kind, and hath it brought out of the Fadory, after him, by fome £K;f///& Man. The Doftor alfo buys Prints, which he takes Care to Ihew as he proceeds from theFadtory to his Tent. Th^ Indians who are no; in the Secret of the Fee, imagilne that the Do.;;.i Thefe Doaors, if I am rightly informed, are chiefly called upon in chirurgical Cafes-, and they have fome Knowledge of Plants, with which they will do great Cures, though, probably, the Conftitution of the Patient ufcd to Exercife, and unufed to Delicacies, may greatly contribute. It is this their Exercife and Temperance that caufes them Difcavery of a North-Weji Pajfage. J833 them to know few Diforders -, and the moft frc- Novenb* quent Remedy they iife, when ill, is Sweating; which is performed after this Manner ; They cut Alder, or other pliant Sticks, and then take and ftick the Ends in the Ground ; fo the Sticks form fo many Arches interfering one the other, high enough for a Perfon to fit under, or, when upon his Knees ; fometimes made large enough for two. Over the Sticks they put Bea- ver Coats, or other warm Coverings, making a Fire at fome Diftance off, and in that Fire they put large Stoiies ; when thefe Stones are hot, they take and carry them into the Tent, and lay them on Sand ; fo until the Tent is extreme hot. Then goes in the Patient; if V Woman, in her Frock ; if a Man, naked j and there flays until the Tent cools, when tb^y. either. run i^to the Water, or the Covering ^Is^flung^ of i^/ and the Patient will fit ^crapin^^the ^w^t ^ff,; aU ^ Covering lb flun^ off, arjd ytMs iifiit ^1 J%ing Weather ; or when he got^s, ini^nediacely oq^^ the Tent into the Wa&r,' it Ihali be when tte^ ■ is lee in it, receiving no Damage, ' ''*-A^*':? ' ;• * Herodotus mentions the Puri^ijitions of the Scythians y who are fweated after thejame Man* • ner : He fays,. «« that yth^^^Jfcythims \^9 ** interred their Dead, t_^ymi|afyv" as we ^^^^M " mention J ^r^*: %^<^^.B'e3ead"-, as ^0 a. TJ.-.J r .'U :.. v« H l» 75. I •• th# m feu .; I;"!.' ■■' ¥'("'■ 234 A y OY AO E for the Novemb. « the Body, this is what they do : They take *' three Pieces of "Wood, which they incline " one towards the other, and on the Outfide •* they put Coverings of Felt j and they caft " Stones red-hot into a fmall Cheft which ftands " in the Middle; within fide the Pieces of *' Wood and the Covering. * The Lacedemo- *' nians and Lufttanians fweated after the fame ♦ ** Manner as Strabo gives us Reafon to believe; ** rbe People oiLufitania^ fays he, who dwelt '* upon the Borders of the Duero^ have, as we ** are aiTured, abfoiutely the fame Cuftoms and the fame Ufages which were obferved at La- cedemon •, they anoint themfelves with Oil twice ** a Day, they fweat themfelves with red-hot *' Stones, and wafh themfelves in cold Water 5 *' and they have but one fort of Food, living *« with great Frugality. " They praftife Bleeding, which is performed by taking a Knife and fcarifying the Back of the Hand, over a Vein, then put an Awl under the Vein, and lift it up free from the Skin ; cut the Vein with a Knife, and, when it hath bled the Quantity they think proper, they put a Bit of wet Leather over it and tie it up. cc cc #*• They hold in great Efteem the Rind of Pine Tree, or of Juniper, and alfo an Herb which they call IViJeaca Pucca or Bitter Ilerh » Strabo, L. 3. 1 06.. It ey take incline Outfide ey caft h ftands ieces of 2cedemO' he fame believe; lO dwelt ;, as we 3ms and at Lu' )il twice red-hot Water 5 , living rformed :k of the d under :in; cut ath bled ut a Bit of Pine b which It Difcovery of a Nartb-Wefi Paffage, 2 j 5 It is an Opinion amongfl: them, that the Know- Npvenib. ledge of Phyfick is not to be acquired, but is hereditary ; no one can be a Do6tor but the Son of a Dodlor. As to the other Set of People befides the Doc- tors, which are thejuglers or Conjurers. It is a re- ceived Opinion amongft thelndians in thofc Parts, that there are two Spirits, one whom they call Maniiou, to which Spirit, they attribute all the Perfeftions of the Deity, the other Spirit they call Fitfco, and that Spirit they imagine to be the Caufe of all the Evil and Misfortune that happens to them, and concerns himfelf much with them. Thefe Juglers pretend to an Inti- macy with yitico, erea a Tent which will juft hold them, and is Ihaped much like a Butter- Churn ; black their Faces, and then go alone into fuch Tent where they will make a great Variety of Noifes in imitation of Animals, jump about, and make a great Stir. During the Time, all the Indians who are near, keep a profound Silence, and perhaps, when the Conjurer comes out, he will tell them Filico would not come, or he hath feen. him, and tViiico fays fo and fo, as to what thofe Indians want to know who hired him to conjure for them j which will be fome- times private Perfons, or thofe of a Tent, or of feveral Tents -, if fome of his Predidtions chance to be compleatcd, he is then in Reputation -, if not, he fuffers only in his Charader, but not the Art. H h 2 Thefe ^3* A Vo Y A G E for the *> !^^ Novemb. Thefe Conjuters, or Joglers, will alfo prtftcnd that they have fuch an Intereft with Vitko that they can get him to do particular Perfons a Ihrewd Turn, and often will get Prefents from Perfons whom they have threatened, to appeafe them, that they may not make Ufe of their In- teri^ft with Vitko to the Perfons Difadvantage, They alfo pretend they can procure by Conjur- ing whatever they defire. One imagined himfelf fo dexterous, as he undertook to impofc on the People of the Fadbory, telling the Governor of the Fadtory that he could conjure as good Brajil Tobacco as the Governor fold, and appointed him a rime to give a Proof of it, the Governor and two more went agreeable to it, to the Indian* s Tent, the Indian enters the Tent naked, all but the Skin which paffes between his Legs, jumps and dances about, and with great Diftortions of Bo '7) and this for near two Hours, at length L^ whips his Hand under his Arm-pit, takes from thence fome Tobacco which he had concealed there, then rubs his Hai) ; violently on his Breaft, and fays the Tobacco was coming* The Go- vernor and others who had kept a ftrid Eye on him, let him know they faw him take the Tobacco from under his Arm, upon which the Indian was fo much enraged, that they foon quitted tlie Tent. This was told amongft the Indians, but his Chara6ler was too well ^ftablilhed to have anv EfFeft* for unnn a Time after, f thefe Juglers Lifc&very of a Nortb-Wefl Pajfage, 437 Juglers pretending to work Cures by Charms) Novemb. there was an Indian Woman very ill, the Sur- geon of the Fadory took all proper Care of her, but ihe imagined there would be no Cure cffefted without a Conjurer, and pitched upon this fame Indian for the Man, he came to his Patient, fucked her Breads, her Thighs, her Legs, and, after about three or four Hours of this Application, he then faid flie was almoft cured, and foon after pulls out of his Mouth a Parcel of Hawks Claws and Partridge Feet, as many as would lie in the Palm of his Hand, thefe he pretended he had extraded, and that they were aftually the Caufe of her Diforder. The Woman foon after recovered. %- B I N I S.