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BY THOMAS SIMPSON, ESQ LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. ^ublttlijc): m (2^rlftn i<^ CONTENTS. ■I I'.VUB 70 CHAPTER XI. Sorond Sea Voyage. — Difficulties and detentions amongst Ice.— Long circuit in Hathurst'a Inlet Dis- covery of Copper on IJarry Islands IJoats finally arrested near Point Turnagain. . . . ^ o CIIAPTEU Xll. Journey on foot and important discoveries to the East- ward.— Ueturn to the Copperniino, and skilful ascent of that river. — Travc-rse of the Barren Grounds, and ar- rival at Port Confidence. . , ,,«. CMAPTEIl XIII. Transactions at Fort Confidence, winter 18^8-39.— Murder and Distress among the Indians.— Relief afforded ^'"'''"' • • . . ., I < 342 CHAPTER XIV. Second Descent of the Coppermine.— Interviews with Es(|.iimaux.— Passage of Coronation (iulph, and arrival on new ground. • • • CHAPTER XV Stupendous bay, broken into minor bay., and bordered by countless islands. — Discovery of the Strait of Boothia.— Hack's Point Ogle doubled in a fog.— Deposit found on Montreal Island. — Capo Britannia, and dis- coveries to the Eastward.— Progress arrested by gales Iteturn. — Nearest approach to Ross's Pillar and the Magnetic Pole. — Southern shores of Boothia and Vie- toria Land explored.— Passage of a nuignificent Strait Winter sets in.— Re-entry of the Coppermine Kiver. . 359 vi CONTENTS. (IIAPTKIl XVI. I' Vl.R Wintry roturn to I'ort Confidnicc. — PassHfro of Clroat Boar Laki', and asci-nt of tin- Mackcnzio. — Arrival at Fort Simpson, and journoy on tlu< Snow from tlicnri' to lUd Kivcr. ...... .TSf) AIM'KXniX. List of till' Plants collected dining- I lie Art tic Jonrnry of M(>ssrs. Simpson and Dcasc. Hy Sir W. .1. llookt'r, K. n. . . . . . . , 40!) Talilc of the Mag-m-tic Variation and Dij) ol)sorvod liy Mr. Sinipson. . . . , . .419 'i I' Ai.K !)8<) M E M O 1 IJ OF 401) 419 THOMAS SIMPSON, A.M. JJV urn miOTlIEll, ALEX'^ SIMPSON. ■i 'FiioMAS SiMi>s(JN, tho writer of tlie narrative i-oiitaincd in tlio followino- pagos, was horn on the 2n(l of July 180H, at Din-wail in lloss-sliirc, N. 13. His fatlior, Mr. Alexander Sinii)son, thou^di a native of Aherdecnshire, had resided for many years in that distant Highland county, had long exercised the functions of magistrate of his little hurgh, and was well known to its visitors and inhahitants for his hospitality and singleness of heart. lie died in the year 1821, leaving his widow and two sons but very slen- derly provided for. Thomas, the eldest of the sons, was from his childhood distinguished hy a (piiet, tractable tem- /,2 VMl MKMOIU 01' per, ami a steady attt'iitiou to Iiis studies; and, as in tlie case witli most beys in iiis splieir of life ill Scotland who manifest sncli dispositions, it was early determined to educate liim with a view to his becoming a cler<;yman (d* the Scotcli Church. In his boyliood lie was rather of a weakly constitution, having at one time shewn a strong tendi'ucy to consumpti(»n. lie was then consi- dered by his coin])anions as being of a timid disposition ; and, so far from taking a lead in the ganu^s connnon among l)oys, he was remarked for an unwillingness to join in their rougher s]K)rts, and for a hesitation in entering ujjou any exercises that could in the least expose him to personal danger. In these respects wo find a remarkable simili- tude to the early years of another traveller of much repute — Abyssinian Jiruce ; and, indeed, in every matter belonging to their early lives, and some belonging to their after career, there is nnich reseml)lance between these explorers of two very dilferent portions of the globe, liotli were mild and timid in tlieir boyhood : both daring and impetuous in their after-life : both, from an early age, excited nuicli interest and sanguine expectations of future success in every- one connected with them : both profited in- I i >)>. THOMAS SiMPfiON. IX <1, til I, I 1 Hi ■'5 % I «liistrioiis|y l)y tlicir o|»|»ortuiiiti(»s of education : ill liolli an incliimtitMi curly sliuwud itself for the sacred onic(» of the ministry: both were ener;i;etic; uiid their eiier^nes were s of England ; yet the attainment of the highest of them is, at least, a proof of a young man's pre-eminence among his fellow-students. At the end of his four years' curriculum JMr. Simpson carried off the " Iluttonian " prize, — the highest given at King's College, — on an examina- I MEMOIR OF !l tion of comparative merit in all the departments of study during the curriculum ; and at the same time received a degree as Master of Arts. In the winter of 1828-29, Mr. Simpson at- tended the divinity class of the same college. He had, while thus engaged, a repetition of an offer — which had been pressed upon him in 1826, and declined — to join Mr. (now Sir George) Simpson, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company's territories in America. The change which had been gradually going on for several years in his temperament and constitution was now complete: from a deli- cate, timid boy, he had sprung up a strong, brawny youth, with the sanguine disposition generally accompanying a state of high bodily health. On a review of his position and prospects, he saw that, to obtain a settlement as a paro- chial clergyman of the Church of Scotland, he might require to wait for many years, during which he must support himself by the usual resource of probationers of that Church — public or private tuition. His active and energetic mind, which, as a clergyman, would have found an adequate si)here in a zealous discharge of his functions, could but ill brook the irksome and monotonous labour of tuition ; he had high THOMAS SIMPSON. XI expectations of meeting with much of adventure and interest in the distant and savage region to v^^hieh he was invited : he therefore resolved to accept this reiterated offer, and proceeded to America early in 1829. Of the years spent by him in the Hudson's Bay country previous to the commencement of the Arctic expedition, it is unnecessary to say much. His sanguine temperament and buoyant spirits enabled liim to pass through them with- out much weariness or cnmd ; and he strove, and with success, to accommodate himself to the duties and mode of life vvhicli were imj)csed upon him by a residence in the coui.try which he had chosen as his sphere of action. Of the share Mr. Simpson had in planning and organizing the expedition of wdiicli the follow- ing pages are a narrative, he himself speaks modestly and ])i'iefiy in the first chapter of that narrati /e. Although Mr. Sim})Son's name appeu/s only as second or junior officer of the expediti j, — the senior beii:.r Mr. Peter V/urrcn Der-se, an old and expcriencefl officer of the Hudson'^ Bay Company, who co-operated with Sir John Franklin on his last exjiedition, — yet a glance at the narrative in the following pages will prove that Mr. Simpson was really the main-spring of the expedition. He alone was at all conversant Xll MEMOIR OF ■with science : and tlie most arduous j>arts of the service performed by the expedition — the com- pletion of the survey between IVIackenzie River and Point Barrow; the exploration of the country between Great Slave Lake and the Copjiermine River — essential to the transport across that rugged and sterile country (well called the Bar- ren grounds) of the boats and provisions of the expedition ; and the pedestrian journey along the coast, of the summer of 1838, which opened the prospect of a clear sea to the eastward, securing the success of the expedition in summer 1839, — were performed by him alone. The narrative contained in the following pages is so full, yet so concise, that I consider it un- necessary here to give any details in reference to the expedition and its results. I shall merely remark, that every object in view when it was first organized was attained, with the loss of only one man, who died from sickness, not from ac- cident or fatigue. On the return of the party to Great Slave Lake in Sept. 1839, Mr. Simpson drew up a succinct narrative, in a letter addressed to the Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, of the operations of the season, which had been so brilliantly suc- cessful ; which letter was published in most of the leading papers of the civilized world — as i THOMAS SIMPSON. • • • Xlll as were likewise his similar letters, describing the operations of the two preceding years — and at- tracted much attention. At the same time that this letter was for- warded to London, IMr. Simpson transmitted to the Directors a plan for an expedition to com- plete the survey of the coast between the ex- treme east of the discoveries of 1839, and the straits of the Fury and Ilecla ; and, notwith- standing the excessive fatigues to which he had been exposed for upwards of three years, he offered to assume the command of the expedi- tion without a moment's respite, and anticipated that arrangements would be made by which he could again reach the Arctic coast in the sum- mer of 1840. With this expectation, and in order to be personally on the spot to expedite and super- intend the arrangements, he left Fort Confidence, his dreary residence for two long winters, on the 2Gth Sejit. 1839 ; and after a journey of most ex- traordinary celerity, having traversed 1910 miles on foot in sixty-one days, including all stoppages, arrived at Red River Settlement on 2nd Feb. 1840. At this place he remained, anxiously waiting for letters from England, which would authorize his proceeding on his new expedition, and which would convey to him intelligence of the recep- XIV MEMOIR OF ;/ - Mfe tion given in England to the news of his hav- ing completed the survey of the Arctic coast of America between the point reached by Beechey from the Pacific, and that to which Uoss had l)enetrated from the Atlantic Ocean. In both these expectations he was most deeply disappointed ; for the annual canoes from Canada, which arrived early in June, brought him no ratification of his i)lan, nor news of the recep- tion given by the public to the intelligence of the success of the expedition : indeed, his letters (contrary to his expectation) did not reach Eng- land in time to be acknowledged by that op- portunity. Having no authority for fitting out another expedition, the local authorities of the Company declined undertaking the responsibility of doing so, notwithstanding the very limited and econo- mical scale on which it was proposed by Mr. Simpson ; and he, deeply mortified at this delay of his plans, determined upon i)roceeding to England, in preference to remaining a year in idleness waiting for the acceptance of his pro- posal. That acceptance was written on the 3rd of June, 1840, by the Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, to their 8ui>erintendent at Red Uiver, in the following terms : THOMAS SIMPSON. XV op. of )11'S Ucd " Reverting to the subject of the Arctic Dis- covery Expedition, 'he <(allantry and excellent management manifested by Messrs. Dease and Simpson in that arduous and interesting service, and the good conduct of the people under their command, entitle them to our warmest com- mendations. The valuable and important ser- vices of Messrs. Dease and Simpson have been brought under the consideration of her Majesty's Government, who have not, as yet, noticed the subject. " We observe that Mr. Dease avails himself of the leave of absence that has been afforded him with the intention of visiting Canada this season ; and that JNIr. Simpson volunteers to con- duct another expedition, with the view of con- tinuing the survey from the mouth of the Great Fish River to the Straits of the Fury and Hecla. We have much satisfaction in availing ourselves of that gentleman's proffered services : you will therefore bo pleased to meet any demands that may be made by Mr. Simpson for men, goods, provisions, craft, &:c. &c., and to take the ne- cessary measures to give effect throughout the country to that gentleman's views and wishes in reference to the important and arduous ser- vice on which ho is about to re-enter." Had this loiter, instead of being written on XVI MEMOm OF the 3rd of June, reached IMr. Simpson on that date, how different might have been the result ! On the Gth of June Mr. Simpson left Red River Settlement, with the purpose of crossing the prairies to St. Peter's on the Mississippi, and thence making his way to England. On starting from the Colony, he was accom- panied by a party of settlers and half-breeds. Eager to reach England, he got tired, in a very few days, of their slow movements, and went on ahead in company with a party of four men. lie pursued his journey with much ra]»idity ; for, on a chart which was found with his other pa])ers after his death, we trace his day's journey on the 11th of June to have been forty-seven miles in a straight line. Subsequent to that date every circumstance is involved in mystery. All that can be ascer- tained with certainty is, that, on the afternoon of the 13th or 14th of June, INIr. Simpson shot two of his companions ; that the other two mounted their horses and rejoined the larger party, a part of which went to the encampment where JNIr. Simpson was alone, on the next morning; and that JMr. Simpson's death then took place. Whether he shot these men in self-defence. 'ii I TUOMAS SIMPSON. xvil ;ancc Lsccr- iioon shot two Li'ger nent next then Jiice, and was siibscfjnently put to death by their com- |)ani()ns ; or whether the severe stretch to which his faculties had been subjected for several years brought on a temporary hallucination of mind, under the influence of which the melancholy tragedy took place, is known only to God, and to the surviving actors in that tragedy. But it must be noticed, in support of the former supposition, that the depositions of those who pretend to describe the manner of his death are contradictory in the extreme. INIoreover, the North American half-breed is, of all races in the world, that which most retains the odium in loiifjum jaciens. Mr. Simpson had, five years before, incurred the animosity of the half-breeds of lied lliver by inflicting a chastisement on one of them who had grossly insulted him, and they then threatened his life. Three of his companions were of this race. They saw INIr. Simpson returning to England after having achieved an object important in itself, but of which they even exaggerated the import- ance; their long-treasured animosity was likely to have shewn itself in threats and insults, if not in actual attack ; and hence — it is the opinion of many intelligent men who have examined the circumstances, and are acquainted with the cha- ^ '/ fiv. XVlll MEMOIR OF ractcr of the lialf-caste nativos — resulted tlio events wliicli cut sliort tlie career of this enter- prising young traveller. If the other supposition should be true (and there is nothin IN'STUIM TIONS. of 18IU), to vi\\\\\) ail c'X|)o»lition <>ii a small scal«'. iiiidor tlio ordiTM of tlicir own oflicMMs. 'i'lic fa- cilities affortUMl by tlioir cxtcnsiv*' <'li!iiii of posts, tlieir control over tlio Indian trilu's, tlic kiiow- lod^ifo ])oss(>sslm1 l»y tiicir (dliccrs <»f tlic rrsonrcos, and tlicir lialutndc to the lianlships of tlie conn- try, all concnrri'd in pointing out tins modi' as tlic most likclv to cnsnro success. Chief Tactor IVter Warren Dease, who so ably assisted Sir .I(din Franklin at Ins winter fpiarters in lS'2r)-2(). and myself, were appointed by (icjvernor Sim])Son to tlie .jcdnt mana<»i'ment of tlie cxi>edition ; and I was hononred with the (lovernor's commands to draw out a jdaii of ope- rations, npon which onr instructions Mere to be founded. Among various plans considered, that which api>eare(l the most eligible coincided in its leading features, but on a reducecl scale, with one previously ]>roposed by Dr. Richardson. The following co])y of the instructions, which were soon after delivered to us by (Governor Simj»son, will convey to the reader a lucid and compre- liensive \ivjw of the wliole subject. " Norway IIousp, Snd .July, 18.30. " Gkntlemen, "By the 70th and 80tli Resolutions of Council of this season, you will observe that we I }N as of wc LNSTHL'C TIONS. 3 )i.'iv(> <](>t(>iiiiin(': out nii l*A|MMliti<)ii r«»rtli\N ilh, for tin imrposc ^t\' ciHli'uvourin^j to coinplt to tlii^ (lisrovcrv juhI survey of the North- ern shores of this eontiiiillt. " '2. This ohjcct has, for a groat Icngtii of time, I'xcited the most lively interest in the jMihlic mind, and has haflliMl the exertions of many onterprisinuf men, amon«:j whom the names of l*arrv, l''ranklin, Uoss, and IJaek have of lato years aj»|>eare«l conspicnons ; Ijut I trust that tin? honour of its aecomjdishment is reserved for the I fudson's Bay C'onj|uiny throui;h your exertions; and, in selecting you for so important a mission, we give the best proof of the high opinion wc entertain of your abilities and (jualifications for sueh an undertaking. " 3. 'J'he expedition, consisting of twelve men, is now placed under your direction ; and you will he pleased to conduct it without delay to the Athabasca country, and to pass the ensuing win- ter at Fort Chij)ewyan, or Great Slave Lake, as you may consider expedient, although, in my opi- nion, C«reat Slave Lake would be the preferable wintering ground, in many respects, as regards the objects of the expedition. " 4. At the o|)ening of the navigation in June, yon will proceed by boat down Mackenzie Uiver to Fort Norman ; and there leave four men, J« 2 Mf INSTRUCTIONS. i I* with directions that tlioy prooci'd from tliciico to the north-east end of Great Bear Lake, and there erect buihlings, establish fisheries, and collect provisions, for the accommodation and mainte- nance of the party during the winter 1837-8. " 5. You will then go down to the sea with the remaining eight men, and endeavour to trace the coast to the westward to long. 15G" 21', N. lat. 71° 23' 89'', whence Captain Beechey's barge returned. Should your progress along the coast be obstructed by ice or fog, as Sir John Franklin's was, you will either put the boat in a place of security, and i)roceed on foot with all your party, or leave four men with the boat for its protection while you go along shore, carrying a sufficient quantity of provisions ^ith you for the journey. It is desirable to take observations as frequently, and to survey the coast as ac- curately as ])0ssible, without, however, losing time on your outward journey in waiting for the appearance of the sun, moon, or stars, which are frequently obscured by the dense fogs that pre- vail so much on that coast; but devoting as much time to these objects as the season and the state of your provisions will allow on your return. " 0. At the most westerly point you may reach, you will erect, in a conspicuous situation, a pillar [\ INSTRUCTIONS. or mound, and leave deposited in the earth at its base a bottle hermetically scaled, containing an outline of the leading circumstances con- nected with the voyage. " 7. In suggesting that the boat should be left, in the event of your progress being ob- structed by ice or fog, I beg it to be under- stood, that that ought not to be done if there be the least probability, that, by ])erseverance, you may succeed in getting her along shore* as the preservation of the boat I consider to be highly essential both to the accomplishment of the voyage and to the protection of the party; but if there be no ])ossibility of getting on with the boat, I beg to recommend that you provide yourselves with axes and cordage to make rafts for crossing rivers, and some parchment sheeting and oilcloths, to make a couple of small canoes for the conveyance of the party, should it be found impossible to cross the rivers on rafts, and in order to secure your retreat in the event of the loss of the boat. "8. Should you not be able to accomplish the voyage or journey during the season of open water, and that you fall in with friendly Esqui- maux or Indians, as many of the party as can be maintained may remain with them, so as to complete the survi'y in the course of the () INSTUUCTIOXS. '^k-f' \i ■ '■' u ' Ir winter or spring; in this, however, you Mill exercise your own discretion, and be guided hy circumstances. " 9. It is exceedingly desirable, however, that you should return by oi)en water, so as to pass the winter at the establislinient to be formed at the north-east end of Great Bear Lake, in order to make the necessary i)reparations for another voyage of discovery, to the eastward, at the opening of the navigation in the summer of 1838. " 10. The object of that voyage is to trace the coast, from Franklin's Point Turnagain, eastward, to the entrance of Back's Great Fish River. To that end, you will haul your boat across from the north-eastern extremity of Great Bear Lake to the Coj)permine River before the winter breaks up, and at the opening of the navigation i»roceed to the sea, and make as accurate a survey of the coast as possible, touching at Point Turnagain, and proceeding to Back's Great Fish River, if the strait or passage exists, which that officer represents as separating the main land from Ross's Boothia Felix; but should it turn out, on ex- amination, that no such strait exists, and that Captain Ross is correct in his statement that it is a peninsula, not an island, you will in that case leave your Ijoat and cross the isthmus on iN** INSTRUCTIONS. foot, taking M'ith yon mat(!rhils for building two small canoes, by which you may follow tlio coast to Point Jlichardson, Point IVIaconochie, or some other given spot that can be ascertained as having been reached by Captain Back. And you will be regulated in determining whether you will return by Great Fish River or by the coast, by the period of the season at which you may arrive there, the state of the navigation, and other circumstances. "11. In order to guard against privation, in the event of your returning by Great Fish River, it will be advisable to make arrange- ments, at Great Slave Lake, that a supply of provisions, with ammunition and fishing-tackle, likewise babiche for snow-shoe lacing, be de- posited at Lake Beechey, or some other point of that route. " 12. Should you be unable to complete the voyage to the eastward from the Coppermine River in one season, you may, as suggested in reference to the other voyage, take up your quarters with the Esquimaux for the winter, so as to accomplish it the following season. " 13. In making your arrangements for both voyages, I have to recommend that a consider- able quantity of pemican and flour, not less than one hundred pieces, be provided for voyaging ir n t I p > 8 INSTRUCTIONS. provisions, and that you be well sui»pliecl with materials for constructing small canoes, leather for shoes, and snow-shoe netting, likewise with ammunition, axes, crooked knives, fishing-hooks, net-thread, backing and setting lines, and with warm clothing for yourselves and the people. " 14. The necessary astronomical and survey- ing instruments* are provided, to enable you to take observations and to make surveys, in which you will be as accurate as i)ossible ; and you will be pleased to prepare a full and par- ticular journal, or narrative of the voyage, like- wise a chart of the coast; and to take formal possession of the country, on behalf of Great Britain, in your own names, acting for the Ho- nourable Hudson's Bay Company, at every part of the coast you may touch ; giving names to the different headlands, mountains, rivers, and other remarkable objects you may discover. It is also desirable that you make a collection of minerals, plants, or any specimens of natural history you may fall in with, that appear to be new, curious, or interesting. " 15. You are hereby authorised to avail your- selves, for the use of the expedition, of any as- sistance whatsoever you may require, at any of the Honourable Company's establishments you * By Jones, Charing Cross. COLONY OF RED RIVER. 9 iiijiy touch at, or have communication witli, either by letter or otherwise ; and the gentle- men in charge of those establishments are here- by instructed to meet all demands you may make upon them. " 10. In the event of any accident occurring to prevent either of you from proceeding on this mission, tlie other will be pleased to follow up the object of it, and to avail himself of the assistance, as a second in command, of any clerk of the Company he may find within his reach; and such clerk will be pleased to act in that capacity accordingly. With fervent prayers for your safety and success, " I remain. Gentlemen, Your most obedient humble servant, (Signed) George Simpson."" " Messrs. P. W. Dcase and Thomas Simpson." Our complement of men was completed at the same high rate of wages as on Captain Back's overland expedition. We were unfor- tunate only in our fishermen: one injured his leg and was unable to go; another, a powerful man, named Anderson, who had served at Fort Reliance, being seized with a sudden panic, fled into the woods, where he was found, after our departure, disordered in his mind. His place 10 COLONY OF RED IIIVER. :( ii !i; '■■ i was filliMl by a man sul)SC'([uently ciigagccl on tlio route northward. • A supply of trading goods having been got uj) from York Factory, and all the other ar- rangements being complete, Mr. Dease took nis de])arture, on the 21st of July, from Norway House for Athabasca, in company with Chief Factor Smith, the gentleman in charge of that department, who afforded every ])ossil)le aid in transporting the goods and provisions destined for the expedition, during the long and laborious voyage to Fort Chii)ewyan, M'hich they safely reached on the 28th of September. At the same time 1 returned to si)end the autunni at Red River Settlement, chieHy with a view to refresh and extend my astronomical i)ractice, which had for some years been interrupted by avocations of a very different nature. It would be foreign to my purpose to enter into a lengthened description of this isolated colony : I shall merely bestow upon it a cursory glance, to give the reader some faint idea of its peculiar character. Situated under the SOtli de- gree of north latitude, and 97th of west longitude, at an elevation of eight or nine hundred feet above the sea, and stretching for upwards of fifty miles along the wooded borders of Jn Red and Assiniboine rivers, which flow through a level 1 I ^N.i COLONY OV RKD RIVER. n country of vast extent, it possesses a salubrious climate and a fertile soil ; but summer frosts, •••enerated by undrained marshes, sometimes blast the hopes of the husbandman, and the extremes of abundance and want are experienced by an imj)rovident peo])le. Horses, horned cattle, hogs, and poultry, are exceedingly numerous. Sheej) have been brought by the Company, at great expense, from England and the United States, and are reared with success. Wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, turnips, and most of the ordinary culinary vegetables, thrive well. Pumpkins, me- lons, and cucumbers come to maturity in the oj)en air in favourable seasons. JNIaize, pease, and beans, have not been extensively cultivated ; hops grow luxuriantly; flax and hemp are ])oor and stunted ; orchards are as yet unknown. The banks of the rivers are cultivated to the width of from a quarter to half a mile. All the back level country remains in its original state a vast natural pasture, covered for the greater part of the year with cattle, and also furnish- ing the inhabitants with a sufficiency of coarse hay for the support of their herds during the winter. The length of this severe season ex- ceeds five months, the rivers usually freezing in Noveml>cr and ojiening in April, wh len there is a tine sturgeon-fishery ; but Lake Wini- 12 COLONY OF RKl) RIVER. ^ ^ ( ■ 1»L'*^, tlu' gniiul receptacle of the river waters, does not break up till the close of Afay.* The most common sorts of wood are oak, elm, pop- lar, and majde ; pines are likewise found to- wards Lake Winipeg. Firewood is rafted down the rivers, from above the limits of the colony, during the summer, or transported on sledges when the snow falls ; but as this essential article is now, through waste and neglect, growing less plentiful, many of the inhabitants have provided themselves with cast-iron stoves, Avhich occasion a much less consumption of fuel. The two prin- cipal churches, Protestant and Roman Catholic, the gaol, the Company's chief buildings, the bi- shop's residence, and the houses of some retired officers of the fur trade, are built of stone, which is brought from a considerable distance. The generality of the settlers dwell in frame or log- houses, roofed with wooden slabs, bark, or shin- gles, and, for the most part, whitewashed or painted externally. Not a man, however mean or idle, but jjossesses a horse ; and they vie in gay carioles, harness, saddles, and fine clothes. A great abundance of English goods is imported, * Two-decked vessels ply on this lake during the summer between the colony and the entrepot of Norway Mouse, situated at its northern extremity, where the river navigation to Hud- son's Bay commences. COLONY OF RED RlVl.R. 13 '..'if' botli by the Coiii])any and by iiK^'viduals, in the Coiii})aiiy's animal ships to York Factory, and disposed of in the cohmy at moderate prices. Labour is dear, and produce of all kinds sells at a hiare the malt of the inhabitants, who use neither barley nor oats in bread. Of all these mills two only have been ereeted by a Roman Catholie, a fj^en- tleman in the Company's pay as warden of the plains; the rest an^ in the hands of the Protest- ants, who constitute but two-fifths of the popu- lation. It may be remarked that, while not a few of the children, by native women, of the Company's retired European serva-i^^s, who are chiefly Orkneymen, inberit the plodilini;' careful disposition of their fathers, the half-breed de- scendants of the French Canadians are, with rare excc]>tions, characterised by the ])ater- nal levity and extravagance, superadded to the uncontrollal)le passions (rimental farming, erecting cliurclies and other buildings, endoving schools, aflbrding me- dical aid gratis to the ])oor, encouraging (hmies- tic niamifactures, maintaining an armeending the evening of life, with their native families, in 10 lONVKUTKl) INDIANS. tliia oasis of tlio dosort, to returning; to the conn- trics of tlic'ir nativity. I cannot pass over witli- out particular notice the admirable boanlinpf- scliools cstablisluMl bv tlic Kcv. IMr. .Foncs, wlicre about sixty youtb of botli soxos, the iutvlli^cnt and interesting oflspring of tbc CV)ni])any's ofli- cors, are trained up in luiropoan acconij^Iisliinents, and in tlie strictest principles of relicjion. Nor should T omit mentioning the Tudian settlements, founded by the Kev. Mr. Cockran at the lower extremity of the colony. lie has provided school- masters for the native children, and built ]daces of worship where ho regularly ofhciates. IIo lias constructed a windmill for the Indians, as- sists them in erecting their wooden houses, and with his own hands sets them the example of industry. At the other extremity of the colony, M. Belcour, one of the Roman Catholic priests, Avith untiring zeal conducts a location of Saul- teaux Indians on a smaller scale. I wish I could add that the improvement of the abori- gines is commensurate to those beneficent cares. Cut unhappily the experience of Canada, of the United States, of California, in short, of all parts of North America where the experiment of ameliorating the character of the Indian tribes by civilization has been tried, is renewed at Red River. Nothing can overcome their in- i I CONVERTED INDIANS. 17 Hatlable dosiro for iiitoxicatini^ liquors ; ami though they are hero oxcludod froiu tlic use of spirits, aud the settlers are fined when ; yi^|W*»y>,lll|» L t ■ I mnw»» HOSTILE TRIBES. 19 which civilization can never penetrate. Since the coalition of the rival companies, however, and the discharge of the noxious swarm of ad- venturers, who, encouraged by the licence of a hot opposition, overran and well-nigh ruined the country, the precepts of morality and order have been instilled into the minds of the aborigines by many officers of the Company. No stronger proof of the salutary effect of their injunctions can be adduced than that, while peace and de- corum mark the general conduct of the northern tribes, bloodshed, rapine, and unbridled lust are the charncteristics of the fierce hordes of Assini- boines, Piegans, Black-feet, Circees, Fall and Blood Indians, who inhabit the plains between the Saskatchewan and Missouri, and are with- out the pale of the Company's influence and authority. It gives me sincere pleasure to say that a reconciliation has at length been effected be- tween those lately inveterate and bloody ene- mies, the Saulteaux and Sioux nations. Under the safeguard of the Company's people, aided by the settlers, two bands of the latter tribe visited Red River during my residence there, in 1834 and 183G. Presents were given and speeches were made both to them and to the assembled Saulteaux, who upon the first occasion vere very c 2 p r 20 RECONCILIATION OF violent, and were only restrained from l)loodslied by disarming and other vigorous measures; but, upon the last occasion, they smoked the calumet of peace and slept in the same apartments with the Sioux at the Company's head-quarters, Fort Garry. The Sioux seemed highly gratified with the kindness and protection they experienced, and have on several occasions performed friendly offices to the Company's couriers and others passing through their country to the American garrison on the river St. Peter's. They are a warlike, equestrian race, with light sinewy frames and eagle eyes, who pursue the buffalo in the boundless plains of the Missouri and the upper Mississippi. Some of the incidents connected with the first visit of the Sioux may be worth narrating, as illustrative of savage passions. A party of six- and-thirty men, headed by a daring chief, called The Burning Earth, in consequence of some dis- gust which originated across the lines, resolved to brave the danger arising from the implacable hatred of the Saulteaux, through whose country they must pass, and to pay a visit to the British settlement. Being obliged to leave their horses on the way, they marched during the night, and reached undiscovered the woody banks' of the Red River, a short distance above the remotest >I0 ;:Sm :«§■ • i--''.-f. HOSTILE TRIBES. 21 .-■« '^^ houses. There they lay concealed for several days, and, being almost naked, suffered much from cold and hunger. At length one of them, venturing out to the brink of the stream, ob- served on the opposite side a half-breed, named Baptiste Parisien, whom he recognised. This man had travelled through the Sioux territories, and served, it is said, in the United States' ca- valry against the Socs and Foxes. Parisien instantly invited the stranger to his house; and the latter, plunging into the river, swam across to him. He told his story, and Parisien gene- rously proceeded with a canoe to ferry over the whole party. He lodged them, collected his friends to protect them from their enemies, and sent a messenger to the Company's central esta- blishment, at the forks of the Red and Assini- boine rivers, to report their arrival and desire of an interview. Chief Factor Christie, the go- vernor of the colony, acceded to their request, and Parisien conducted them, under a strong escort, to Fort Garry. There a conference was opened with great form and gravity. The Sioux declared that the object of their hazardous jour- ney was to transfer their trade to the British, and, to that end, to make a lasting peace with the Saulteaux. Mr. Christie replied, that, they being American subjects, the Company could not f i r F 22 UK('0N(^IL1ATI0N OF gratify them in the first particular, but was most anxious to promote a cordial reconciliation be- tween them and their ancient enemies. I was particularly pleased with the speech of a grim old warrior, called The Black P^agle. After de- scribing their state of perjietual hostility with the Saulteaux : " In our plains," said he, " every stock, every stone, is taken for an enemy ; these fears can no longer be endured : let the Sioux and the Saulteaux smoke the calumet of peace ; let them hunt the buffalo together, and let them henceforth be one nation." Another orator, of a more lively mien, concluded his harangue by begging " a drink of (rum) fire-water ;" " for," said he, " 1 love it better than ever I did my mother's milk." As second officer, I assisted Mr. Christie during the interview, and officiated at the same time as French interpreter, that being the language of the only capable Sioux speaker at the place. At the close of the " pa- laver," The Burning Earth presented Mr. Christie and myself with ornamented ])ipes, and I handed him the gun I carried in return.* All went on * His people then entertained us in the open air with their national dances, which are more animated than most Indian exhibitions of this sort. The Con/pheux, a humorous little follow, was really amusiug. His place was on the outside of the ring, and, as he moved round the dancers, he saluted each with a smart lash of a thong on the bare back, and immedi- .•ic HOSTILE TRIBES. 23 m plousiintly till the evening, when a large party of kSaiilteanx, from the river Assiniboine, gal- loped suddenly into the court. They were com- pletely armed, and breathed fury and revenge; having lost forty of their relatives by an attack of the Sioux a year or two l)efore. We instantly stationed a strong guard around the building, and despatched messengers, summoning the police and able-bodied settlers to the defence of the strangers who had thrown themselves on our hospitality. A sufficient number arrived in the course of the night to prevent any violent attempt l)eing made. The Saulteaux, continually aug- menting, were so irritated at being repulsed from the windows through which they sought to fire upon the unfortunate Sioux within, that they turned upon some of Parisien's followers, and blood had well-nigh been spilled. The great difficulty now was, how to get the strangers saft';^ home again. We supplied them with pro- visions, tobacco, and some clothing, and also amnmnition for their defence, in case of their being attacked beyond the bounds of the colony. They concealed their alarm, put on a resolute countenance, sung their death-song, and the chief, unsheathing his sabre, smote the bare shoulders ately after sounded a shrill whistle with a look of malicious drollery. 24 RECONCILIATION OF i of each of his followers with the flat side of the blade. After this ceremony, they declared their readiness to depart, and were led out between two lines of the police and the settlers to the boats, which were in readiness to convey them across the river. The Saulteaux, who were on the watch, now endeavoured to press forward ; but we drove them back, and disarmed a great many of them. Parisien and his half-breeds undertook to conduct the Sioux safely out into the open plains, where they might set their bush- fighting foes at defiance. The party had no sooner crossed the river than a number of the Saulteaux threw themselves into their canoes on the Assiniboine, a little distance above, with a view to intercept their retreat. Observing this manoeuvre, I ran towards them, followed by Mr. M'Kinlay and a few others, and, levelling our guns at the men in the canoes, ordered them to turn back. They angrily complied, when the principal man, seeing that we were but a handful, began to vent threats against us; but, a party opportunely riding up to our assistance, we carried the old fellow with us to the establishment, and his follow^ers dispersed. Parisien sent us word next day, that, though some ambuscades were laid, he had seen the Sioux safely clear of the woods; after which they had little diflficulty in • ■Si;'*^-''*'*. 1, "^ HOSTILE TRIBES. 25 returning to their own country, about Lac Tra- vers. I regret to add that this gallant fellow was, three years afterwards, shot through the heart in the melee of a buffalo hunt. On the second occasion, the Sioux came in double numbers, better armed, and led by Ula- neta, the greatest chief of their whole nation. He was distinguished by a sort of coronet of eagle feathers and a necklace of grisly bears' claws, with the unromantic addition of a pair of green spectacles! He is a tall elderly man, with a mild, almost a benignant, expression of countenance; yet he is said to be one of the fiercest warriors in all the plains. He was obey- ed with respect, and some of his people seemed expressly appointed to maintain order amongst the rest. The whole party wore painted buffalo robes. They were, as before, hospitably received, and dismissed with gifts, but under strict injunc- tions not to repeat their troublesome and perilous visits. nmfy m n > )i ** tti ' awKi^„ 2(5 \V1NT1':R JOIRNKY IROM ciiapti:r it. Dcst'rii)tion of a Winter Journey from Red lliverto Athabasca. In the afternoon of the 1st of December, tlie day I liatl fixed upon for quitting the colony on my long* winter Journey to Athabasca, I bade adieu to my kind and much esteemed friend, Chief Factor Christie, to the worthy clergymen, and the otlier gentlemen forming the little so- ciety of the place, all of whom breathed the warmest wishes for our welfare and success. The autumn had been long and beautiful, and the snow had not yet cast its white mantle upon the earth. I was therefore obliged to set out with horses and carts, which conveyed our bag- gage to the JNIanitobah Lake. IMy gay cariole and three sledges followed, light drawn by the dogs, and attended by three drivers — chosen men — who completed the little party bound for the distant north. I started from Fort (jiarry on horseback, escorted by three or four of the young gentlemen belonging to the establishment. \ m^ "■mumi RED RIVER TO ATIIAIUSCA. 27 Our ride WHS ciilivenetl by a spirited wolf-lmiit, one of our ordinary pastimes in tlie plains wliicb environ the colony, where the horses are trained to the pursuit of the buftlilo and wolf, and to stand tiro at full speed. At sunset we rejoined our little caravan, which encamped on a bushy knoll about two leagues from Fort Garry. Af- ter si)ending some hours with me, my young friends retraced their stej)s homewards, and left us to our night's repose. The waning moon shone brilliantly when we awoke ; and, taking an early breakfast, we all started on foot. The morning was cold, but ex- hilarating. The sun, rising in cloudless splen- dour, threw his horizontal rays across the wide plain, and, illuminating the hoar-frost upon the long dry grass, gave to the expanse around us the appearance of a silver-spangled sea. At noon we halted for a short time at a cluster of trees, in whose shade we obtained sufficient snow for our horses and dogs, in lieu of water, a luxury not to be found in these arid plains. The coun- try traversed was studded with a few copses of j)oi)lar and dwarf oak ; but a great part of it having been swept by the running fires, so fre- quent and terrible in the prairies, presented a blackened and dismal aspect. I noticed a num- ber of small natural mounds, on which lay frag- "I ^ 1 •i " III 2H WINTER JOURM-IY lllOM mciits of linu'stoiio, tliu laiii ivj'ion ; [iiul quantities of little siiells were strewed a])()iit in every direction. After travellin^^ twen- ty-seven miles, we took up our quarters at sun- set in a grove on a sli<,dit eminence, which my guide dignified by the name of '* Lo Grand Coteau." On the 3rd we passed Shoal Lake, a place where the half-breed settlers kill a great many wild fowl in the fall and spring ; after which our course changed from north-west to west, winding through a country agreeably varied with woods and plains. The former abounded in white hares {Icpus Amcricnnus)\ and, as our equipage moved leisurely on, we enjoyed an excellent and profitable day's sport. In the afternoon we reached the borders of Manitobah Lake, and procured a .light's lodging in the houses of some " freemen," of whom we found eleven families residen: there. These peoi)le subsist Ciiiefly by hunting and fishing ; they possess a few horses and cattle, and, though separatoHl from their fellow-men, seemed to live quite happily. I ascertained the latitude of this spot, by a meridian altitude of Jupiter, to be 50° 22' 45'' N. I sliall not fiitigue the reader by ahvays recording the result of my observations, which may appear more pro])erly in an Appendix. ■■MHMni.»r>--> ^■. RKD RIVmi TO ATHABASCA. •29 Siitfico it to remark, that, tlirou^jliout the jour- ney iiortlnvard, F took bcariiig-s with a jtoeket compass ; and, at night, determined our situation by altitudes of the planets or fixed stars. The Manitobah Lake had but recently assumed its icy covering, which, as far as the eye could distinguish, rose in huge masses, as if forbidding all farther progress. So formidable was its ap- pearance that the peoj)le endeavoured to dis- suade me from prosecuting that route ; but I resolved to persevere, and, dismissing our wheeled vehicles, we soon had our baggage snugly stowed upon the sledges. The cariole intended for my- self I appropriated to the carriage of my books^ instruments, &c., and preferred performing the whole journey to Athabasca on foot. Two of the young freemen agreed to afford us the assist- ance of their dogs to the Company's nearest post ; and, at each establishment on the route, I, in like manner, procured the aid of a coui)le of fresh men to accompany us to the next. Then began the flourishing of whips, the shouts of the drivers, and the howling of the refractory dogs — all blend- ing together in one horrible outcry. For some distance we found the ice almost impracticable, but on doubling a point the broken rugged masses gave place to a smooth and glassy level. To walk on such a surface, with the moccassins or T :■ i 30 WINTKU JOLUNKY lUOM soft loatlKM- sliors of tlio country, Mas noxt to impossible ; \v(^ yyoiv, liowovcr, |)n)vi(l(Ml with iron <'rani])ot9, whicli wo strappod on in nincli tlio same manner as the Kainschat(h\h's wear their "posluki," or iee-slioes. Thus seeured from many an awkward fall, wo advanced rapidly, hut found it no easy uuHter to keep pace with our doi lakes. They liavo no oiitlct; uiid, on cutting through the ice for water, wo generally found it putrid : such, however, is its scarcity in that level country, that wo were often fain to use it when most nauseous, taking the precaution of imbibing it through snow, which purifies it in some slight degree. Wc now turned west-south- west for eight miles, keeping along a broad and rather winding ridge, which appeared to furnish the bufllilo with a regular road of ingress to the woods. Several tracks of moose-deer were also seen during the day. After sunset we took uj) our quarters in a sm.all clump of poplars. The whole country having been ravaged by fire, wc could net find dry grass, as usual, for our beds, and sjiread our Christmas couch on willow branches ; rough indeed, but rendered smootli to us by health and exercise. Next diiv we continued the same direction for twelve miles ; and, though I remonstrated with our half-breed guide on liis leading us too much to the southward, Pierre persisted in his own accurate knowledge of the route; till sud- denly we emerged into the oi)en plains, where an illimitable snow-covered waste alone met the view. We made for an eminence five miles distant, whence we gained a full view of the •^1 m m wm RED UlVKll TO ATIIAHASCA. 45 I'xtraonlinary (Mmiitry in whicli wo now found ourselves. Wliat are hero called )dains, consist of a collection of barren liills and hollows, tossed together in a wild wave-like form, as if some ocean had been suddenly petrified while heaving its huge billows in a tumultuous swell. Sinclair, one of my men, informed mo that ho had from Fort Polly traversed, in the summer season, a similar country, extending ti) tho bordens of the Missouri. From our elevation we could discern, due north, our eagerly looked-for mark, thr^ Birch Hill, by which lay our lost route, 'ieing thus re-assured, a smart walk of thirte n miles brought us to the external fringe oi underwood, in which we halted at sunset. The loose snow made tho walking this day irksome ; but we had many a capital race, as the sledges shot down the steep hill sides. It was rather dangerous foot- ing on these declivities, garnished as they were with badger-holes, which, being concealed by the snow, repeatedly entrapped our legs, and cap- sized us, though we for\U'?ately escaped without fractures. The country is completely intersected by buffalo-roads : wc saw many skeletons and one or two reccni tracks of these animals; but no living creature, except a fox that started from his burrow on the top of one of the bare hills, n I 'it V' V I 46 WINTER JOURNEY FROM ii: J1 I; 1 1 i and a j>aii of lean ravens, which attended us for the greater part of the day. A strong southerly wind blew during the night. At daylight on the 27th we found that a strong thaw had taken place, which rendered the travelling execrable ; our route was full of deviations, which my guide declared necessary to avoid a rough thickety country. The fact was, the man was again at fiiult : and I was on the point of taking the guidance out of his hands, to shape a straight course for Carlton, when I found him kneeling on a hillock, with what purpose I know not ; but, on questioning him, he said he recognised a low hill before us. On reaching it, we found ourselves in the midst, as it were, of a grand amphitheatre, being on every side surrounded by superior woody ridges. A few miles further lies the " Lake of the jNIoose Deer ;" after passing which we gained the top of a range of round hills, extending across our route, where we lodged in a little hollow at sunset. In the course of the day we saw several tracks of buffalo bulls, and shot some j)art ridges. With the dawn we were again in motion. A light fog overhung the earth, which the rising sun soon dissipated, lighting up its fragments, as they rolled away, with bright and changeful hues. Our route traversed ])atchcs of brushwood, prai- I: ' im&sn -■*■ RED RIVER TO ATHABASCA. 47 ries abounding in small lakes, and two broad low ranges of hills, at the base of the last of which we encamped. Our course all day was west-north- west by the compass. Walking was laborious in the extreme, the snow being soft, the grass long, and the ground lumpy ; so that, though we only advanced twenty-three miles, we were all tired enough in the evening. 29th. — The cloudy weather having prevented me from obtaining observations during the night, I was desirous of taking a meridional altitude of Arcturus in the morning twilight, which placed us in lat. 52° 40' 36'' N. ; then, starting a little before sunrise, we proceeded across the plain. The morning, for the depth of winter, was ex- ceedingly beautiful ; and we had not gone far when we espied, on the top of a little eminence before us, four red-deer, inhaling the fresh breeze. They stood gazing at us for some time ; and two of the party were preparing to creep towards them through a bushy dingle, when tlie beautiful crea- tures took the alarm, and, darting down the de- clivity with the speed of light, gained the -woods and disappeared. At noon wc found ourselves on the lofty banks of the So'ith Branciij or Bow River, which is here a quarter of a mile wide, and well wooded with pr.plar, aspen, and. birch. Descending to the stream, we cnino upon an ' (• m m li. » 48 WINTER JOURNEY FROM open space, where the clear current rushed spark- ling over its stony bed ; and we quaffed an ample draught of the pure element, deliciously refresh- ing after the foul and smoky snow-water of the plains. Then, mounting tlie steep bank on the opposite side, we pushed our way, through thicket and swamp, to the White Hill, a bare elevation, commanding a view of the open plains to the westward, and, to the east, of a wooded hilly country, with the broad river wending its way majestically through it. We encamped at Duck Lake, which is three or four miles long. Next morning, after breakfasting, and making our simple toilet, we set out for Carlton, si- tuated on the south side of the Saskatchewan River. There we were greeted by Chief Factor Pruden with a frank and cordial welcome ; and, at his pressing request, I consented to pass our New-Year holidays with him. There were no bands of the plain Indians in the neighbourhood, and none of the alarms consequent on their appearance. In the course of the preceding summer they had several times fired into the place, whi''h is defended by high palisades, planted with wall-pieces. Provisions were unusually scarce, the great fires in autumn having driven the buffalo to a distance ; but one of the Cree hunters was fortunate enough to kill a female RED RIVER TO ATHABASCA. 49 moose r^d her two fawns witliin a short dis- tance of the establishment. On the 2nd a dance was given in the hall, at which Mr. Pruden's fine family, with all the other inmates, young and old, attended, decked in their gayest attire ; and gave full scope to the passion for dancing inherent in all the natives of the country. The following day was employed in making pemican for our journey, and in getting everything in readiness to resume it on the mor- row. There is some ground in cultivation here, and Mr. Pruden was justly proud of the sleek hides of the cattle and horses in his stable. 4th. — Being now reinforced with fresh men and dogs, we set out at a rapid rate. After crossing the river, which is nearly half a mile broad, we entered an open country, consisting of low, round, grassy hills, interspersed with clumps of poplar, and occasionally of pines, and with many small lakes; a range of hills, called " La Montague Forte," appearing far on our left. We travelled on till dusk, when we encamped in a valley. We started next morning at 4 o'clock. It was exceedingly dark, but we luckily fell upon a path made by some people who had lately passed towards Green Lake. The snow increased in quantity as we advanced, and the country be- 50 WINTER JOURNEY FROM camo more close and woody. After a walk of fifteen miles, we reached Shell River, a little stream ; where we found, near an old Cree camp, several skins of the throat of the moose-deer suspended on poles, which are esteemed by the natives as charms of great efficacy in their con- juring. Sixteen or seventeen miles beyond this rivulet, we passed by Salt Lake, which is nar- row, but of considerable length : its waters are unfit for use. A hill on its east side is clothed with fine birch, and thither the Carlton people resort to procure materials for constructing their sledges. Proceeding seven miles farther, we came upon a streamlet containing fine water, ironically named by the voyageurs " La Grande Riviere," on the banks of which, amongst pines, we halted for the night. We started on the Gth at the same hour. The weather continued mild for the season, and cloudy, as if it would snow. After proceeding a distance of eight miles, chiefly occupied by four pieces of water, the largest of which is denomi- nated Fishing Lake, we entered the boundary of the pine forest, in lat. 53° 30' N. Two leagues of a very rough, uneven path brought us to an- other rivulet, open in several places, and very serpentine in its course, often expanding into small lakes, and originating in one, at the dis- \u i RED RIVER TO ATHABASCA. 51 tance of ten or eleven miles. It traverses a pretty valley, the land rising gradually on either side. Three or four miles through thick woods lead thence to Otter Lake, five miles long, but not exceeding a quarter of a mile in breadth. We saw on the snow several marks of the valu- able fur-animal from which it takes its name. Beyond this we crossed six little lakes, when, finding a fine camping-place, we halted after sun- set, having travelled thirty-seven miles. One of the men had a narrow escape, his gun going off while carelessly fastened upon the sledge behind which he was walking. Next morning we crossed six more " lakelets," separated from each other by very close woods, in passing through which the extreme darkness rendered it necessary to advance in a stooping posture, cautiously guarding our eyes from the low hanging branches : the space thus occupied was five miles. Then followed a hilly tract of fourteen miles in extent, dividing the waters which flow towards the Saskatchewan and Churchill rivers ; about the middle of which we fell upon a streamlet winding through a valley, with elevated woody sides. Along this valley we descended, occasionally crossing the brook, which the recent mild weather had caused to overflow in many places, to our no small incon- B 2 III I 52 WINTER JOURNEY FROM venience. At leiigtii, between 10 and 11 a.m., we reached Green Lake, where we stopped to breakfast, with enviable appetites. This lake is narrow, and its reaches assume various bearings, like those of a large river; its length is about seventeen miles. Finding the ice level, and not much encumbered with snow, we trotted briskly over it, and reached the little post at its extre- mity about sunset. Here we found some Crees, who, having been unsuccessful in hunting, were living for a time on the produce of the abundant fishery made by the people of the place at the commencement of the winter season. A considerable quantity of snow fell during the night, and the morning of the 8tli was very boisterous. At 5 a. m. we started, and, follow- ing a few turns of the stream by which Green Lake discharges itself into Beaver River, we turned off into a very bad, swampy track, lead- ing to the two Duck Lakes, each half a league long, and nearly as far asunder. A short port- age brought us to the banks of Beaver River, which is about the same size as Swan River, and similarly wooded. Descending it for twelve miles, we came to some rapids, which never freeze. Close to the open water we saw three otters, but they plunged into the stream before ■j/li *■• irti^^k RED RIVER TO ATHABASCA. 53 we could approach within shot. We had now resumed our snow-shoes, but the fresh fall made the march very fatiguing both for men and dogs ; and at 4 p.m. the violence of the gale obliged us to encamp. We were again on the river the following morning at 4 o'clock; the weather desperately cold, with a violent north-west wind. We break- fasted at the foot of the " Turned-boat Hill," so called from its peculiar shape. The general thickness of the ice was about eighteen inches ; but there were several open rapids, where the current ran with considerable force, pursuing a very irregular course, and rendering the ice ex- tremely rough and difficult of passage. But up- on the whole we made good progress, and early in the afternoon reached the point where we quitted the river, which describes a long circuit to the right before falling into Lac la Crosse, five miles to the east of the establishment. Perch River, a small stream, joins Beaver River two reaches lower down, and erroneously appears in some maps as " Riv. Lac la Ronge." This lake is fed by the Montreal River, which issues from Lac Assiniboine, a large body of water, extend- ing, it is said, to within a day's journey of Green Lake, and abounding in fine white-fish. We tra- 54 WINTER JOURNEY FROM Irv versed part of the Long Lake Chain, and en- camped in a grove of splendid pines, having tra- velled forty miles. The morning of the 10th was clear, but pier- cingly cold. We were imdcr way at 3 o'clock, and passed the remainder of Long Lakes. We then struck due north by the j)ole-star, and after travelling fourteen miles, including five more small lakes, we reached Lac la Crosse at day- light, and breakfasted. The lake here comes almost to a point, and expands very gradually for sixteen miles; when, having attained the breadth of half a league, this long arm unites to the main body, which is eight miles across to the establishment. There being but little snow on the ice, we ran all the way, and early in the afternoon we were most kindly and hos- pitably received by Chief Factor Mackenzie. It was my intention to await at this place the arrival of an express, soon expected from Atha- basca, in case there should be any arrangements to make respecting the additional supply of goods and provisions required by the expedition. The weather continued mild, with some heavy falls of snow. The " Fort" is neat and compact, the surrounding country low and swampy. The fish- ery, ui the lake close at hand, yields a constant supply of fresh and wholesome food, sunmier and } RED RIVER TO ATHABASCA. 55 winter ; the little farm is productive, and the few domestic cattle maintained were in excellent con- dition. T noticed a number of ravens stalking about quite familiarly among the people and the dogs, and almost making their way into the houses. They are considered useful, during the heats of summer, in cleansing the beach of fish refuse, and are therefore treated with nearly as much consideration as the stork was by the an- cients, and is at this day in Holland. On the 13th I sent back my Carlton auxiliaries, after all hands had been gratified by a " ball," at which one of my companions, who was a capital fiddler, officiated as chief musician. A party of Chipewyans came in with an assortment of furs. They had been living in abundance on moose- deer, and were clothed in the same manner as the people of the establishment. The Chipe- wyans are the most provident of all the northern tribes ; and, since the union of the rival compa- nies in 1821, their numbers are decidedly on the increase. The longitude of the place, deduced from three sets of lunar distances, with stars on either side of the moon, was 107° 54' 30'' W., differing only six seconds from that found by Sir John Franklin in 1825. On the 20th the long-looked for couriers ar- rived, with letters from Mr. Dease, communi- 56 WINTER JOURNEY FROM F! eating the welfare of the expedition. After writ- ing on its affairs to the gentlemen in charge of York Factory, Norway House, and Red lliver, and being most liberally sup])lied, by my worthy friend Mr. Mackenzie, with everything requisite for the journey, we took our departure the same night. At our usual breakfast hour, on the 21st, we reached Clear Lake, a tolerable day's walk on pnow-shoes. Our route thence to Athabasca being precisely that followed by Sir John Frank- lin, scarcely needs the minute description which I have given of the preceding portion. Adher- ing to the general line of the summer water com- munication, the road was not so readily mistaken as heretofore ; and we were able to make a great part of our May during the night, which all ex- j)erienced snow-travellers know to be less wea- risome to the spirits than broad day, when the traverses of lakes, and long reaches of rivers, are seen in all their tedious extent, and the eyes are op})ressed by the glare of the snow. The re- mainder was, consequently, the most rapid part of our journey. The weather was dark and snowy. Three large wolves followed us, and a pair of white owls serenaded ns with their harsh notes during the night, as we lay on Buffalo Lake. Vr/0 RIVKR TO ATHABASCA. 5/ A V Next morning wo set out at 2 o'clock. A dense fog concealed the land, and hid tlie liuflalo Mountain, so dreaded by superstitious voyagers ; but wo took our course west-north- west, across a very wide bay. After a smart walk of eight hours, in which we advanced twenty-eight miles, we landed for breakfast near the extremity of the lake, where we found the ice to be three feet thick. We encamped in the Methye River. On the 23rd we started at 3 a. m. Some time before daylight there was a magnificent display of the aurora bm'ealis^ commencing with an arch of singular lustre in the north, which suddenly flashed up towards the zenith, and re- presented the interior of a stupendous cone, the apex and upper part being of the bright yellow hue, while the lower assumed a very rich car- mine colour. I had scarcely time to admire this resplendent phenomenon, when it disappeared. We pursued as direct a line as the country per- mitted, now following the river, where we found it straight, then traversing the intervening woods. Our moonlight transit disturbed from their sleep- ing-places a couple of foxes, and several large coveys of white partridges. Early in the after- noon we reached Methye Lake, near the middle of whicli, on a long jirojecting i)oint, we en- 1 ui it 3|i I: I 58 WINTER JOURNEY FROM ^*K,' cainpctl, among firs of great size. While erosfi- ing the lake, 1 witnessed an extraonliiuiry ellect of the mirage caused by the rays of the even- ing sun. It covei*cd the land to the west with a mist-like veil; and the ice, even close around us, appeared to dance with a strange undulating mo- tion, as if tossed up and down iyii a heavy swell. I was walking about half a mile a-head of the rest of the party, and, chancing to look back, the people seemed to be seated on their sledges; but on their arrival at the encampment, when I taxed them with their laziness, they assured me that they had been on foot the whole time, and that I had also appeared to them in a recum- bent attitude, borne forward as it were by some unseen power. Our dogs showing symptoms of sore feet, we equipped them all in shoes of white cloth. After I had ascertained the latitude 50° 28' 48'5'' N., we quitted our snug quarters at 3 a.m. of the 24tli. Scarcely had we started when the weather became overcast and snowy; but we took our course, by compass, across the remaining sec- tion of the lake, to the celebrated Portage la Loche. The snow was very . ) I killed a badger, which he was taking lioine. These men were well-clothed, and supplied from Fort Chipewyan with everything necessary for this mode of life. The weather changed, and became clear and very cold. In many places we found the ice covered with water, which had overflowed from tributary creeks, and from oj)en places in the river itself. The snow, too, was soft and deep ; and our progress was much retarded by these circumstances. At dusk we encamped below the upper tar springs, among the huge pines and poplars, which are every- where of a growth worthy of the noble stream whose banks they shelter and adorn. Tt snowed as usual during the night, and the morning of the 29th was piercingly cold, a strong north wind sweeping up the exceedingly long reaches leading to Pierre au Calumet. Our dogs began to knock up one by one, and three were untackled all day. These lagged be- hind, unobserved, in the afternoon ; and I had to send a man back to look for them. He met them just as our pertinacious followers, the wolves, were coming up ; and saved the j)0(jr animals, who were in no condition to resist such powerful adversaries. In the plain districts many horses yearly fjill a prey to their voracity. RED RIVER TO ATHABASCA. 05 Tlie 30th was intensely cold, with a penetrat- ing head wind, and not an incident occurred to vary the scone as we passed down the long monotonous reaches of the river. The cold during the succeeding night was excessive. At the end of sixteen miles we made a land-cut of two miles in length to avoid a detour. The wolves having become very daring, lured on by the prints of the dogs' bleeding feet, I lay in wait for them, after the rest of the party had passed, and fired upon the foremost as they dashed up the bank, which effectually checked the pursuit. We encamped at the mouth of a small creek, thirty miles from Fort Chipewyan. 1st February. — This being the day I had fixed, on leaving Red River, for my arrival at Fort Chipewyan, we were on the move at 2 A. M. The morning was windy, but not cold ; the sky was clear, and a vivid arch of the aurora spanned it to the north, but speedily resolved itself into a thousand flashes and coruscations of extreme brilliancy. Leaving the main chan- nel by which the Athabasca pours its waters into the lake, we struck across the land to a minor branch, called the Embarras. We fol- lowed its narrow and devious course for several miles, rousing the moose-deer from their lairs i> A \^ w 66 JOURNEY TO ATHABASCA. I h ■ if by the noise of our dog-bells. Crossing a short portage, we reached Lake INIamawee, where we despatched the small remainder of our provi- sions. Then continuing onwards with accele- rated speed, at 3 p. m. we were warmly welcomed by Chief Factors Smith and Dcase, who did not expect me for more than a month to come. Thus happily terminated a winter journey of 1277 statute miles.* In the wilderness time and space seem equally a blank, and for the same reason — the paucity of objects to mark or di- versify their passage ; but, in my opinion, the real secret of the little account which is made of distance in these North American wilds is, that there is nothing to pay. Every assistance is promptly rendered to the traveller without fee or reward, while health and high spirits smile at the fatigues of the way. I' ,1 * From Fort Garry to Fort Pelly . . . 394 miles. „ Fort Polly to Carlton . . . 276 „ „ Carlton to Isle i\ la Crosso . . . 23G „ „ Isle a la Crosse to Fort Chii)o\vyan . .371 „ 1277 r*^f' G7 - 1-^ ! e B 1 ', -'.- e it ;s * ^ »s. r4 CHAPTER HI. Occurrences at Fort Chipewyan, spring, 1837 Traits of the Natives. The whole month of February was unusually mild, and at noon the sun not unfrequently asserted his increasing power by a gentle thaw. Mes- sengers were continually arriving with favourable accounts from the Indian camps ; a pleasing con- trast to the preceding winter, which is rendered memorable to the poor natives by the ravages of an influenza — scarcely less dreadful than the cholera — that carried off nearlv two hundred of the distant Chipewyans. I say distant, because all who were within reach of the esta])lish- ments were sent for and carried thither, where every care was taken of them ; warm clothing and lodgings were provided; medicines adminis- tered ; the traders and servants fed them, part- ing with their own slender stock of luxuries* * A few pounds of tea, sugar, &c., allowed to oncers and guides, and purchased by the cotnmon-mon, are called " lux- uries" in Hudson's Bay. The old Canadian " voyageurs," who F 2 Ijl e8 OCCURRENCES AT FORT CIIIPEWYAN. for their nourishment ; till even the cokl heart of the red man warmed into gratitude, and his lips uttered the unwonted accents of thanks. The first point determined, after my arrival, in reference to the expedition, was, that in- stead of one large boat for the coast, we should immediately get two built, of smaller dimensions. The purpose of this change was, to provide for the greater security of the party; to render our craft so light as to admit of their being carried over the icy reefs obstructing the passage along the western coast, and that they might after- wards be transported with facility, across the Coppermine portage, to another scene of opera- tions. This step was the more necessary, as it was extremely doubtful whether the northern parts of Great Bear Lake produced timber fit for the construction of boats of any description, and as we should there be unprovided with a boat-house, forge, and many other requisites for that purpose, which we possessed at Fort Chi- pewyan. It will be abundantly evident, in the course of the narrative, that, with a single boat, the expedition must have terminated disastrous- lament the degeneracy of their successors, are nothing loth to imitate their example in adding these comforts to their fare ; and an encampment of the present day exhibits a r*>gular as- sortment of tea-kettles, pots, and pans. t m vm' TRAITS OF THE NATIVE^. 69 \y. To complete the crows, we required only two additional men, whom Cliief Factor Smith promptly provided from among several volun- teers, the service being now popular with the northern voyageurs. We likewise engaged, as hunters for Great Bear Lake, a Chipewyan family, comprehending an old man, his two sons and two sons-in-law, accompanied by their wives and children. It is with sincere pleasure I take this occa- sion of observing, that the harsh treatment of their women, for which the Chipewyans were, not long since, remarkable, even among the North American tribes, is now greatly alleviated, especially among those who have frequent com- munication with the establishments. At Great Bear Lake I had many oi)portunities of witness- ing the conduct of this particular family, and always saw the females treated with kindness. The present Chipewyan character, indeed, con- trasts most favourably with that of the party which accompanied Hearne on his discovery of the Coppermine River, and who massacred the unhappy Esquimaux, surprised asleep in their tents at the Bloody Fall, A large proportion of the Company's servants, and, with very few ex- ceptions, the officers, are united to native women. A kindly feelijig of relationship thus exists be- ;>l Vv i i. :t f I I- I Vi 70 TRAITS OF THE NATIVES. tween them anil the Indians, which tends much to the safety of tlie small and thinly scattered ^)osts, phiccd, as they are, amon<^ overwliehnin^" num- bers, were those numbers hostile. The rising- class of otticers have begun to marry the young ladies educated at Red River, which will tend to give a higher tone to the manners and morals of the country, without, it is to be hoped, diminish- ing those mutual feelings of good-will that now subsist between the Indians and the traders resi- dent amongst them. The month of JMarch proved as severe as February was mild. The thermometer fell to — 30^ and ranged from — 20° to — 80° for many days. The aurora frequently exhibited its fantastic lights, but only once or twice vividly disjdayed the prismatic colours. An aged Cree hunter arrived witli his family. Feelhig his strength — which had borne him through forest and flood for many a year — no longer equal to the chase, the old man said that he was come to end his days at the Fort. AVith care and attention, however, he soon began to revive; the whole family were furnished with everything necessary, had the same rations assigned them as the regular ser- vants, and continued to live in comfort at the establishment. Many other Indians came in *: ■* f^\ TUAITS OF THE NATIVES. 71 from the diftercnt camps with furs and for sii])i)lics. From some of tho Chipowyans I learned that they had, in the course of the preceding summer, met with a party of Esquimaux at the confluence of the noble Thelew or Thelon River with the Doobaunt of Ilearne, below the lake of the latter name, and not far from f'o influx of these united streams into CliesteriiLid Inlet. This meeting was of the most amicable character, and they spent a great part of the summer together. The Esquimaux even proposed to send two of their young men to Athabasca, inviting the same number of Indians to pass the winter with them. The arrangement was agreed to by both parties, but was frustrated by some petty jealousy among the women. They also informed me that, in 1882, sonn) of the Athabasca Chipewyans accom- panied the Churchill branch of their tribe on their annual meeting with other Esquimaux at Yatli Kyed, or White Snow Lake of Hearne, which receives the united waters of the Cathaw- chaga and the rapid Kasan, or White Partridge River. This remarkable change, from mortal hatred to frank and confident intercourse, is solely owing to the humane interposition of the Company's officers, who neglect no opportunity of H' '4V IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^1^ ui Ef ■** |2j2 1.1 r.-^ia 1 — u 1 1.25 II 1.4 |J.6 rtiotDgraphic Sdences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 c^ 6^ \ 1 72 TRAITS OF THE NATIVES. [H inculcating on the minds of these savage tribes the propriety of their forgiving ancient wrongs, and uniting together in tlie bonds of peace and friendship. By the same influence, the warlike Beaver Indians of Peace River have been, of late years, reconciled to their old enemies — the Thoe- canies of the Rocky Mountains, and the Carriers of New Caledonia. Aj)ril opened Mith the unpromising tempera- ture of 5° below zero, but the weather soon became mild and pleasant. On the 13th there fell a coi)ious shower of rain; on the 17th the first swans were seen, on the south side of the lake ; and on the 21st several flocks of wild fowl flew past the establishment. In the woods the cranberry and juniper disclosed their crimson and ])uri)le fruit, so long hidden beneath the snow; the buds of the willow began to appear; from bush and tree a tribe of little birds twittered and carolled in the glad sunshine; the axes of the woodsmen resounded from the adjacent hills ; while the numerous Indian tents, pitched on the rocks around the Fort, poured forth a swarm of youthful savages, who gambolled in the full ac- tivity of untutored nature. Spring — ^joyous, ani- mated spring — was returned, and the death-like silence of winter was past ! During this month I had the most convincing TRAITS OF THE NATIVES. 73 proofs of that recklessness which pronipts the Indian to prefer a momentary gratification to a substantial benefit. Earnest applications were made by the assembled Chipewyans for the re- introduction into their country of ardent spirits, which had been for many years discontinued by the Company's humane policy. Their attachment to the poisonous beverage, however, remained so strong, that, every season, parties of the tribe traversed the continent to Churchill, on Hudson's Bay, with no other purpose than to obtain it. At length its use was prohibited there also, and the Chipewyans renewed their solicitations. Instead of gaining their point, they were now justly reproved by their benefactor, jNIr. Smith, and obliged to confess their own folly. The following is an extract of the Company's standing orders on these subjects: — "That the Indians be treated with kindness and indulgence, and mild and conciliatory means resorted to, in order to encourage industry, repress vice, and inculcate morality; that the use of spirituous liquors be gradually discontinued in the few districts in which it is yet indispensable; and that the Indians be liberally supplied with requisite necessaries, ]>articularly with articles of ammunition, whether they have the means of paying for it or not." It is equally the Company's inclination, and their H 74 TRAITS OF TIIK NATIVES. interest, to render the natives comfortable. It is when they arc well-clothcil, and amply provided with ammunition, that they are best able to exert themselves in collecting furs and provisions. But, so far is it from the Company's wish to .acquire an undue influence over them, by loading them with debts, that repeated attempts have been made to reduce the trade to a simple barter. In order to effect an object so beneficial to the natives themselves, the arrears of the Chij)ewyans have been twice cancelled since the junction of the two Companies in iSlil ; but the generous ex- periment has signally failed. The impiovidenco of the Indian character is an unsurmountablc obstacle to its success, and in the Chipewyans is aggravated by a custom which (he whites have not yet been able wholly to eradicate. On the death of a relative, they destroy guns, blankets, kettles, everything, in short, they possess, con- cluding the havoc by tearing their lodges to pieces. When these transports of grief have subsided, they must have recourse to the nearest establishment for a fresh supply of necessaries, and thus their debts arc renewed. The debts of the deceased are, in every case, lost to the Coni- ]»any. The Indian debt system is, in reality, equivalent to the i)ractice, in many civilised countries, of making advances to hired servants TRAITS OF TUE NATIVES. 75 [)revious to the commencement of their actual duties. Tills is particularly remarkable among the French Canadians, who can scarcely be in- duced to undertake any work or service without first receiving part })ayment in advance. Their improvidence approaches to that ol" the Indian, and produces similar effects. It is not perhaps generally known that, in some parts of the Indian territory, the hunting- grounds descend by inheritance among tlie na- tives, and that this right of property is rigidly enforced. Where no such salutary law pre- vails, their main source of wealth, the beaver, would soon be exhausted by the eager search of the hunters, were it not for the judicious re- gulations of the Company, whose oflicers have, for many years past, exhorted the natives to spare the young of that valuable animal. In this ])raiseworthy design they have met with increasing success, according as the eyes of the Indians have been oj)ened to their own true in- terests. But the attempt will be understood to be one of extreme difficulty, in consequence of that passion for depriving the animal creation of life, so deeply implanted in the breast of the North American Indian, that it costs him a pang to j)ass bird, beast, or lish without an effort to destroy it, whether he stands in need of it or • i Ti } I' 1 /' 7Q TRAITS OF THE NATIVES. not. Near York Factory, in 1831, tliis pro- pensity, contrary to all the remonstrances of tlie gentlemen of that place, led to the indis- criminate destruction of a countless herd of rein- deer, while crossing the broad stream of TIaye's Kiver, in the height of summer. The iiitives took some of the meat for j)resent use, but thousands of carcases were abandoned to the current, and infected the river banks, or floated out into Hudson's Bay, there to feed the sea- fowl and the Polar bear. As if it were a judg- ment for this barbarous slaughter, in which women and even children participated, the deer have never since visited that part of the country in similar numbers. It is to their own head- strong imin-udcnce, which the example and in- fluence of the traders cannot at all times con- trol, that the occasional deaths by starvation among the natives, and still more rare aban- donment of the aged and helpless, must be ascribed. The quantity of provisions furnished by the Indians to the establishments throughout the northern districts is inconsiderable. In the win- ter season it is generally limited to the rib- pieces of the moose, red, and rein-deer, half- dried in the smoke of their tents, and the bones removed for lightness of carriage; to which a I [! ■'■ I i?f TRAITS OF THE NATIVES. 77 few tongues are perhaps added. In the course of the summer, wlien the animals are easily hunted, and there is water transport everywhere, the more industrious families usually hring to their Fort a bale of " dried meat," consisting of the fleshy parts of the deer cut into large slices and dried in the sun, with a bladder or two con- taining fat ; or a bag of " pounded meat," which, when mixed with boiled fat, forms the renowned pemican. When these scanty supplies prove in- sufficient, with the produce of their own fisheries, and, where the climate is suitable, of the ground cultivated, to support the few people who reside at each of the widely separate posts, two or more young active Indians without family, or with but small families, are engaged as " Fort hunters," and regarded as regular servants. The duty of these hunters is confined to the killing of large animals for the establishment ; and such part of the meat as is not required by them- selves and their families, is transported thither, with dogs and sledges, by the servants belong- ing to the place. To become Fort hunter is the ambition of a northern Indian, for the situation is at once an acknowledgment of his skill, and places the finest and gayest clothing at his com- mand. It is, however, necessary to change them from time to time, as an Indian no sooner forms 11 1 M t 3 « 78 TRAITS or TIIK NATIVKS. tlie notion that his servircs arc imlinponsabhs than from tliat moment ho slackens his exertions. Every ])ru(lent manager of a j)ost endeavours to procure more provisions than the actual wants of his chargfe. He is thus enabled, when scarcity or ill-success overtakes his Indians, to altbrd them a timely, and always a gratuitous relief. I do not speak here of the comparatively mild climate of the Saskatchewan, where the mounted plain hordes often glut the establishments with the spoils of myriads of buflaloes, and threaten their existence by their dangerous visits. Nor are these remarks applicable to the still more southerly districts bordering on Canada, where the natives, as well as the j)eople in the Com- pany's service, are in a great measure fed upon imported provisions, purchased by the Company from the Americans. The principle universally acted on throughout the vast and now admirably governed fur-countries is, that the true interests of the native Indian, and of the white man who resides in voluntary exile on his lands, are in- dissolubly united. All attempts to raise farm produce among the rocks at Fort Chipewyan have proved abor- tive, even potatoes being brought down from Peace River ; but there are never-failing fisheries in Athabasca Lake. The few horses and oxen I fm m •i I i OCCrUUHNCKS AT rORT CIIIPKWYAN. 7J) required for hauling firewood to the place are maintained, during the long winter of seven months, upon coarse grass cut in the swamps, and, when that fails, upon fish. May, like April, was a fine month ; but, till near its close, there was little sultry weather. Swallows a])peared about the houses on the 19th ; and, during the whole month, the geese,* on their northward migration, afforded the na- tive camp food, and the Fort sportsmen amuse- ment. The environs of the lake, for miles, re- sounded with the fusilade, as if bands of skir- mishers, hotly engaged, were scattered over the country. On the 11th we had a smart thunderstorm; and another, more distant, a few days after- wards: these were the only ones of the s]>ring. Owing to the general coolness of the season, and the low state of the waters, the ice lingered on the lake until the 22nd ;f a party of Indians having crossed it, opposite the Fort, indy the day before. It continued alternately driving and stopping for several days. * Thcro were four kinds of {reesc, the Snow, Canada, Laughing, and Hutchin's ; of which the first were by far the most numerous. f The eastern part of the lake, whicli, unlike the western, is traversed by no large river, never opens till the month of June. " » ,( •w*^ I ! ) I' f ' B t »0 OfCURUKXCiCS AT On tlio 23nl the TVacc River boats ronelicMl " English Island," and their cargoes were carriettMl \\ pcarnnce, and with the cohmred earths of the country we manufactured paints for tlieir furtluT decoration. So perfectly alike and admirable were they, that they were ho- noured with the classical appellations of the twins Castor and Pollux ; while the more capacious bateau for Great Bear Lake gloried in the re- doubtable name of Goliah. Each of the sea- boats was provided with a small, oiled, canvass canoe, and portable wooden frame, which proved highly serviceable in the sequel. On the 3()th we had a trial of our boats on the lake in a stiff breeze, and were well satisfied with their respective performances. H l'\ was 4G" lin. were keel ►ards. m H o 82 DKSCENT FUOM ATIIAHASCA )' CHAITKIl IV. Descent from Athabasca to th« Polar Son, IIavino, with Ch'ivi' Factor Smith's kind and liberal assistance, satisfactorily completed every arrangement, the expedition took its departnre, on the eveninjLj of Thursday the 1st of June, from Fort Chipewyan, under a salute, "which wo returned with three hearty cheers. As soon as the first shade of regret at |>arting from so sin- cere a frientl had i)assed away, we warmly con- gratulated each other on being at length fairly embarked in the interesting service of discovery. Our hopes of achieving what far more distin- guished names had left undone were high, ancrytliin<^ being thus settled, wo nil took our departure together at sunset. After a splendid trial at the oar, which served to shew the superiority of the little sea-boats, we came in view of Bear Lake River, at 3 o'clock on the morning of the 3rd. We landed a short distance above it, where Ritcli embarked a su])j)ly of unctuous earth to whitewash our intended residence, and he was directed to pro- cure some black chalk near Port Franklin. Wood-coal was in a state of combustion for several miles on both sides of the Mackenzie, and these natural fires seem to have spread con- siderably since last described by Dr. Richardson. * Three of Back's crew in 1834. f One of Franklin's men in 18!?fi. II I 98 DESCENT FROM ATHABASCA Tlie jets of smoke, issuing in muiiy places from the perpendicular face of the clayey clirts, pre- sented a singular spectacle. Tlie combustion had in many places scorched the layers of unc- tuous earth that interstratify the coal formation, and turned their surface to a lively red colour. After spending some time ashore in the exami- nation of these curious phenomena, we parted from cur comrades with three hearty huzzas, displaying the Britisli ensigns us we launched into the broad, swift stream. On either hand rose the Rocky INIountains and the Eastern Hills, noM' shadowed by floating clouds, now reflecting from their snowy peaks the dazzling sunshine. The scene was to me enchanting, and its excite- ment was increased by our rapid descent of the river. We saw a few Indians during the day, from whom we procured some of the fish called Back's grayling, the " wing-like tin" of the Esquimaux. Our progress was continued, as usual, all night. Early the following morning, a light breeze filled our sails for a while, but soon died away. We breakfosted on the curious madrepore rocks above " the Rapid," which we descended at noon. In the evening we spoke a large camp of Hare In- dians, who were fishing in the eddies along The Ramparts. That singular defile is well named ; but its only garrison consisted of a legion of ^^ii i l\ i --\v im gSttsJ TO THE POLAR SEA. 90 lleil ^^G Dove In Iii- The iicil ; 11 of 4 swallows that nestle in the summits of its rocky precipices. These now echoed with the shouts of the natives, who followed us, with their whole pigmy fleet, to Fort Good Hope, which we reached between 8 and 9 o'clock, and were joy- fully welcomed by Mr. Bell, who is son-in-law to Mr. Dease. The establishment is now placed on the right bank of the river, opposite the upper Manitoo Island, where it stood for several years. The new situation is elevated ; a precaution rendered necessary by the entire destruction, in June, 1836, of the former post, at the disruption of the ice, which rushed down with such overwhelming force as to sweep almost completely over the island, though several miles in extent, cutting down the timber, like grass before the scythe, and burying the place under two fathoms water. The terrified residents took to their boat, and escaped, almost miraculously, into a small lake in the centre of the island. There the ruins of the overthrown wood averted the fury of the inunda- tion ; and in this place of refuge they remained, with the ice tossed up in huge fragments, form- ing a gigantic wall around them, till the danger was past. We found here five Loucheux, from whom we learned the distressing fact, that three of their tribe had been killed, and a fourth H 2 M :.) .' t ' 100 DESCENT FROM ATHABASCA desperately wounded, by the Esquimaux in the preceding month. This unhappy quarrel pre- cluded the prosecution of a design, which we had formed, of taking two of the Loucheux with us to the coast as substitutes for Esquimaux inter- preters ; although the men who had been applied to by Mr. Bell were desirous of accompanying us at all risks. Tliese people are distinguished from every other Indian tribe with which we are ac- quainted by the frankness and candour of their demeanour. Their bold countenances give ex- pression to their feelings, and a bloody intent with them lurks not under a smile. Among the aborigines of North America, the Loucheux alone have never imbrued their hands in the blood of the whites. They amused us during the night with their dances, which abound in extra- vagant gestures, and demand violent exertion. The Hare Indians afterwards exhibited theirs, in which many of the younger women joined ; whilst the old ones got up a crying-match, at a little distance, for some relative whom they had recently lost. On the 5th, we had a conference with the Loucheux, in which we declined tlieir reiterated offers to send two, or more, of their number with us along the sea-coast, assigning the late murders as the cause of this resolution. At the same W W M W HH^ a» TO THE POLAR SEA. 101 had the •ated with rders samo ,iaa ' ^5 time we laboured to dissuade them from their plans of retaliation and revenge. They expressed their sorrow at our determination to expose the lives of so small a party among such a treacherous people as the Esquimaux ; earnestly cautioned us to be on our guard in every meeting with these perfidious savages, especially in the act of embark- ing, the moment they usually select for an attack ; and declared, that if the latter injured us — whom, in common with all the whites, they regarded as their fathers and friends, — the whole tribe would combine to exact a terrible vengeance. To this comfortable assurance we replied, that we our^ selves entertained no apprehensions, and therefore enjoined them to banish all useless fears on our account. It is but justice to the Esquimaux to state, that, from our inquiries, the Loucheux ap- pear to have drawn the above chastisement upon themselves. For several years they had exacted, and received, a gift, as " blood-money," from the former, on account of a Loucheux whom they asserted to have died of his wounds in an old encounter. On this last occasion three of the Loucheux repeated the annual demand, with which the Esquimaux were about to comply, when unfortunately the very man, so long re- ported dead, made his appearance. On this, the Esquimaux, after reviling the Loucheux for their \i 1 F 1:1 I •4 f i l 1 h' m V ; 102 DESCENT EKOM ATHABASCA falsehood and extortion, fell upon them ; and, of the four, one only escaped, wounded, by flying to the woods. The traders have long been at greac pains to effect a permanent reconciliation be- tween these hereditary enemies. For this pur- pose, in 1817, and again in 1819, Mr. Dease gave considerable presents to the Loucheux chief to negotiate a peace, which lasted for several years. We Avaited to obtain some observations, which gave the lat. GG" W N., variation 44° 12' 3'' E. The temperature of the air was 72°. We then took our final departure for the ocean, and soon crossed the Arctic circle. At 9 p.m. we put ashore for supper, and at 10 re-embarked. The weather on the Gth was still warmer, the thermometer in the shade standing at 77°, and rising 80° highcy when exposed to the sun in the boat. The majestic river and its high banks Avere steeped in a flood of light, and, except the diminutive size of the wood, there was nothing in the landscape to suggest the thought that we had penetrated so far into the regions of the north. At 5 p. m. we reached the spot where Fort Good Hope stood during Sir John Frank- lin's last expedition, and landed to obtain the variation ; after which we pursued our route throughout the night. ■i I M ■■A m A TO THE POLAR SEA. 10[} On the 7th the stunted woods were in several places on fire. The river banks were lined with straggling huts of the Loucheux, formed of green branches. The inhabitants of these primitive dwellings came off in numbers, in their canoes, to visit us, and loud were their vociferations as we came successively in sight of their little camps. The aged hobbled after us along the beach, the women whined and simpered after their most attractive fashion, and the children, *' in puris naturalibus," crowded round our gaily painted boats to see the wonders they contained. Wherever we landed, logs were instantly carried to the water's edge, to enable us to step ashore dry-shod. A small present of tobacco to each of the men, with a few beads or needles distri- buted among the women and children, satisfied their modest desires ; and, for a trifling remune- ration, they su])plied us with as much fresh and half-dried fish as we chose to take on board. We remarked among them some knives and buttons, apparently of Russian manufacture, obtained from the Esquimaux during their intervals of amicable intercourse. The deer-skin jackets of the men have long flaps behind, reaching almost to the ground, and shaped like a beaver's tail. Like their neighbours of the sea, both sexes wear breeches ; a distinctive costume from that of the i m 01 \ t' I 104 DESCENT EKOM ATIIAIJASCA m ii: HI ' 1; ■ tn\ other northern tribes. In the afternoon we passed through " the Narrows," where the Lou- cheux chief was encamped, like a brave gene- ral protecting his frontier. We had given a jKas- sage from Fort Good Hope to one of his young men, who seemed to consider himself as not a little honoured by our attentions; and he now explained to tlie chief our intention not to take any of his people to the coast. Yet such was their confidence in or regard for us, that several again volunteered their services. After thank- ing them, and acknowledging their kindness by some small gifts, we re-embarked. We had pro- vided ourselves with an Escpiimaux vocabulary, which we hoped would serve our j)urpose in our intercourse with that singular race ; but, to guard more effectually against danger, wo now issued to each of the men a gun and ammunition, to be used only at our express command. We supped at Point Separation; and, as we passed the mouth of Peel River, had the satisfaction, new to most of the party, of beholding the sun at midnight, more than his own diameter ele- vated above the horizon- Just as our people were almost exhausted with rowing and the merciless assaults of the musqui- toes, a gentle northerly breeze s|)rang u|) h, .he forenoon of the 8th, and for a while cleared the i M TO THE POLAR SEA. 105 '10 the air of our tormentors. We saw, in the course of the morning, two reindeer, and a female moose followed by her fawns, but very few wild fowl. Several fine views of tlie Rocky IMountains open- ed as we passed down the winding western channel. Landing in the evening on an islet in an expansion of the stream, we found a cache of dried fish, wooden sledges shod with bone, reindeer horns, and other articles left by the Esquimaux. We disturbed nothing, but ap- pended to the stage a few trinkets, with a hie- roglyphical letter carved on bark, intimating that the donors were white men, in two boats, on their way to the western sea. After supping we resumed our nocturnal route. On the morning of Sunday the 9th, a strong southerly wind very opportunely arose, before which we made rapid progress, keeping always to the extreme left, in a narrow serpentine chan- nel washing the foot of the mountains. About 8 A. M., on turning a sharp point, we came sud- denly upon an Esquimaux oomiak, containing four women and a couple of dogs. The ladies, throwing off their coverings, leaped ashore, and fled through the willows with the utmost pre- cipitation. We did not land, but passed on under full sail. Finding that there was still no appearance of the sea, we concluded from this 1 • !.. I I 1 lOG DESCENT I'llOM ATIIAIV\SCA circuiustanoe, and from tlie greater distanee to wliich the spnicc-trees cxten|teared to us a stout, well-look- ing |)eoj)le, with comi)lexions considerably fairer . than the Indian tribes. Having finished our transactions with them, and satisfied our curiosity, we told the strangers to return to their village ; upon which they gave us to understand that they wished to accompany us to our encamp- uient, and to spend the evening in our society. To this, however, we had a decided objection. Already had they uiade several unsuccessful at- tempts to pilfer out of the boats ; fresh num- bers would soon have joined them, stimulated by the remembrance of former success; and we had Escape Reef, and a shallow bad navigation, before us. AVe therefore peremj)torily ordered them back, but to no purpose. Two or three guns were shewn, which alarmed them a little. They held up their hands deprecatingly, calling I TO I'KANKLIN'S KLTL'KN Hlil'.r. Ill fl- out *' Caw-cuw!" — but (uTsistcd in followiiitj^ ut a sliort (listance, even after oiio or two blank shots, till I firod with ball over thcin; upon whi -h they instantly ducked their heads, veered round, and, after paddling out of reach, halted to hold a consultation, — more canoes now appear- ing in the distance. 'J'hus delivered, wo con- tinued our course under sail, with a light close, wind, passing tlie reefs and shoals about four miles from the land ; the Meather dark and threatiMiing. At 10 o'clock a violent squall took us, and it was with the utmost exertion that we were fible to gain the shore at midnight. 'I'he tide rose here about one foot on the morning of the lOth, bringing with it great numbers of methy (lota macnlom), many of which we speared with the Esquimaux lances. Jiefore we had time to take any rest, a heavy swell came rolling in upon the beach, and compelled us to look out for aiKjther harbour. After })ull- ing for several hours along the steej> mud-banks that form the coast-line, we reached Shingle Point, lying under the G9th i)arallel of latitude, and there erected our tents, for the first time, since our detention by wind at the head of Mackenzie IJiver. A north-west gale had now commenced, and vaged all day. AN e found at this place a number of winter huts, and of ;»' I k 112 FROM MAOKENZIK RIVKU ^ hi I i graves covered with the iinj)lemeiits used by the deceased. There was also the frame of an oomiak, twenty-four feet long; and a large sledge with side-rails, well mortised, and strongly knit with whalebone, so that our Canadians pro- nounced it made " comme a Montreal," — the very superlative of commendation in their opin- ion.* We enjoyed a very cold bath in the sea. The musquitoes had now finally abandoned us, and there can be no stronger proof of the un- usual severity of this season along the coast ; for Franklin, Beechey, and Richardson complain of the attacks of these insects throughout their Arctic voyages. The wind having abated, we started on the 11th at 3 A. M. To seaward there were some large icebergs in motion, but we proceeded without interruption till 11, when wo landed to breakfast. A fog now enveloped every ob- ject, and already had the temperature fallen thirty degrees since issuing from the Mackenzie. We * French vanity has lost nothing of its point in the New World. The largest sort of ducks in the interior are called "Canards de France;" English tan-leather shoes, " Souliers Fran9ois;" the whites in general, " les Frangois, " as all Europeans of old were Franks ; and one old guide, talking of the place whence the Company's merchandize came, took it for granted that it was from " la vieille France de Londres ! " TO FRANKLIN'S RETURN REEF. 113 soon came to the margin of the ice, which for- tunately was afloat near the shore. We twisted and poled our way through it: the transparent masses exhibiting every variety of fantastic shapes, — altars, caverns, turrets, ships, crystal fabrics, — which changed as we gazed upon them ; and often rolling over or breaking down, with a thundering noise, tossed our little boats on the swell caused by their fall. In the small open spaces, and on the floes, numberless seals were sporting ; one of which would every now and then follow for a while in our wake, rising breast-high to gratify his curiosity, and then giving place to another. I wounded one of the largest size, but he escaped from us by getting within the close ice. Point Kay was doubled with much difficulty in the afternoon. Here we had the mortification to find farther pro- gress impossible, for the ice blocked Phillips' Bay. Our fires were scarcely lighted when we perceived three Esquimaux approaching us along the reef. They halted at a little distance to reconnoitre, and then sat down, apparently afraid to advance. Upon our calling to them, they threw down their weapons, and approached us with perfect confidence. One of them then went away, and soon returned with the rest of the party, consisting of five women, two lads, and I !V I •: , 114 ADVENTURES AMONG ' several children. They seemed poor, but were lively in their demeanour, and, what recommended them still more to us, in no way troublesome or intrusive. Every individual, young and old, was gratified with a suitable present ; and we afterwards purchased from them some fresh her- ring-salmon (coregonus lucidus), and a bundle of whalebone. They left us late in the evening. During the whole of the 1 2th it blew strongly from the northward, with a dense fog and cheer- less weather. Our Esquimaux neighbours paid us another visit, and then took their departure, probably to inform their friends at Ilerschel Is- land of our appearance on the coast. Next day the ice was still more closely packed, and nu- merous masses were cast upon the beach. About noon the gale abated, the thermometer rose as high as 51% and the latitude 09" 18' 19" was obtained ; variation 49° East. We made ex- cursions upon the green hills, which were em- bellished with the brilliant tints of innume- rable flowers : specimens of these were gathered, and some water-fowl were shot. A row of marks was observed extending across the point, evi- dently designed to lead the reindeer to the edge of the steep bank; over which, pursued by one party of hunters, they dash into the sea, where they fall an easy jirey to another party, stationed in ^ ESQUIMAUX AND ICK. 115 1- I f canoes below. There were also a number of old marmot snares set upon the slope, but none of those curious little animals were to be seen. The fog and cold returned in the evening, at- tended with a drizzling rain. The morning of the 14tli was calm, and we ob- served the first regular flow of the tide. At 8 o'clock it had risen eight inches, detaching the heavy field-ice to seaward from the broken ice in the bay, and opening a narrow passage to the opposite land, of which we immediately took advantage. It was, however, a work of labour and some danger to force our way through in many places, and it was noon before we reached Point Stokes. At a stream issuing out of a lake farther on, we found another small camp of Esquimaux, whose conduct was similar to that of the last party, and equally well rewarded. We procured from them some fine salmon-trout, taken in a seine of whalebone, which they dragged ashore by means of several slender poles spliced together to a great length. A tame full-grown seal was playing in the water around the tents, and, while we were there, came to the brink to be fed. We found the strait between Ilerschel Island and the mainland open. While passing through it, we were visited by three men, and two oomiaks tilled with women and 1 2 fll' IIG ADVENTURES AMONG ■ , I children. Tliey received the usual presents, and informed us that there were five more men of their pcirty hunting reindeer on the island. At 9 P. M. we landed on its extreme western point, from whence the sea, except close in-shore, appeared quite covered with ice. Clouds ob- scured the sky, and encircled the mountain tops ; but from the north-west a golden gleam shot down upon the icy horizon. On the beach were found some bones of an enormous whale, pro- bably stranded here, of which the skull mea- sured eight feet in breadth. Another ooniiak, containing a man and his family, came to us shortly after we quitted the island. The even- ing was mild, with a gentle easterly breeze, before which we sailed all night, between the margin of the ice and the land. At 10 in the forenoon of the 15th we halted to breakfast at Demarcation Point, where the lat. 69° 40' 31" N., and the variation 48° 23' 10" E., were observed. In the afternoon the breeze freshened, and we made rapid progress along and through the grounded ice ; fragments of which, occasionally detaching themselves, plunged head- long into the sea with a noise rivalling the dis- charge of heavy artillery. Large flocks of white and brown ducks flew past us ; many floes were covered with the noisy " cacawees ;" while on ,( »i % -^ J-X-T*ittt'i' ESQUIMAUX AND ICE. 117 ^^ the plains between the British chain of moun- tains and Beaufort Bay browsed numerous herds of reindeer. Farther on stood a camp of Esqui- maux, who, after shouting to us, pushed off in their kayaks ; but the fast sailing of our boats, and our disinclination to sacrifice the favourable wind, prevented any communication with them. The weather was cold and dark, and heavy masses of clouds were hurrying rapidly towards the west. The mountains were almost hidden from view; but ever and anon their snow-capped summits glared portentously through the cloudy canopy, whose vagueness strangely magnified their height. We supped at Point Humphreys' and proceeded on till midnight, when our career was arrested, at some distance from land, by ice adhering to Point Griffin, and extending in every direction beyond the reach of vision. With con- siderable difficulty we reached the shore at 2 a.m. of the 16th, and encamped. It was high-water at noon, the rise being nine and a half inches. This insignificant tide did us good service, in opening a lane along the shore, into which we immediately launched. It blew freshly from the east, and we ran among the ice at a great rate, keeping of course a sharp look- out in our bows. The narrow, crooked openings drew us out two miles to seaward, and at length M 118 ADVENTURES AMONG ! 1. terminated abruptly, leaving us completely em- bayed in the ice, which was driving rapidly west- ward. Our only resource was to gain the land, which, after much shoving and cutting, we ef- fected at 5 p. M., near Point Manning. The reef bore numerous recent foot-prints of Esquimaux, probably bound on their annual westward jour- ney to Barter Island. We had in the course of the afternoon seen several people on the shore, but they did not venture oft*. The lofty peaks of the Romanzoff* Mountains seemed to look scornfully down upon the little party that now sat at their humble evening meal. Finding a fine open space of water within the reef, we car- ried the boats and cargoes across it, and again set sail. Steering outside of Barter Island, we saw on its western extremity a single tent, the inmates of which were asleep ; while a large dog stood sentinel, but let us pass without alarming his friends within. The wind increased as we stood across Camden Bay. AVe sailed without material interruption till between 2 and 3 a. m. of the 17th, when a great pack of ice, stretching out to seaward, obliged us to put in near a considerable camp of the na- tives. These soon visited us, to the number of twenty men, and twice as many women, lads, ami children. A place v\as assigned, and a fire made ^ '~mm.*^^jm.- iaf,,,Li^ ■•v^ '^CilS?^' ESQUIMAUX AND ICE. 119 for them, at the distance of fifty or sixty paces from our tents. A friendly communication was immediately opened, in which our vocabularies were summoned to play their part, to the great amazement of the savages, who declared that the books spoke to us. A valuable selection of pre- sents was then distributed among them, consist- ing of axes, trenches, knives, files, and fire-steels, to the men; awls, needles, rings, beads, and scissors, to the women and children. We next traded for a number of pairs of their waterproof boots, sufficient for ourselves and the crews; like- wise for a few of their lip ornaments, on which they set a high value, demanding a dagger or a hatchet for each pair. Those purchased by us were formed of very large blue beads, glued on to pieces of ivory. We did not observe that this kind of labret constituted any distinction of rank, as remarked by Captain Beechey. The rest were made of ivory only, and the boys wore them of a smaller size. Three of the men were remark- able for their good looks, and a stature of from five feet ten to six feet. We asked their names, and wrote them down as follows : Kenaweye- wangha, Koowoknoo, Kooyouwok-chena. Upon observing what we were about, all the men, and two or three of the old women, came forward to get their names similarly honoured; at the ; I 't 1^, m 120 ADVENTURES AMONG same time inquiring and then repeating ours.* One of the Highlanders' Gaelic appellation, Eachin (i. e. Hector), happening to resemble some word in their own language, called forth bursts of mer- riment. At our request, they gave us a speci- men of their dances, accompanied by a some- what monotonous chorus ; and we could not help admiring their activity in leaping from side to side, when imitating their manner of avoiding the weapons of their enemies. In return for this exhibition, four of our men danced a Scottish reel in very spirited style, with which the stran- gers were highly delighted. When the women and children and some of the men had with- drawn, the remainder were permitted to come to our fire, and to satiate their curiosity by exa- mining the boats and the tents. This went on very well for a while, but indulgence rendered them troublesome ; and one fellow, who had re- ceived an axe, seeing a bright tin bason at the tent-door, took a fancy to it, threw down his axe, snatched up the dish, and was making off with it, when he was seized by Mr. Dease, and, some of our people at the same moment shew- ing their arms, the Esquimaux retired with many l)rotestations of good-will. We liad only, how- * The Indian, on the contrary, like Ossian's heroes, scorns tu tell his name. I m If ESQUIMAUX AND ICE. 121 ever, enjoyed about two hours' repose, when they returned; but the check they had received seemed to have cemented our friendship. There were but few cases of ophthalmia among these people. Most of the women wore their hair in lofty top- knots, as described by Franklin ; and they car- ried their infants between their reindeer-skin jackets and their naked backs. Some of them had light-coloured eyes and complexions, which, if cleansed from grease, might have passed for fair in most parts of Europe. It was high-water at 1 p. M., the rise of the tide being eleven inches. The weather, which had been very foggy since the preceding evening, now cleared a little ; and, from an adjoining eminence, we fancied we could discern open water some distance to seaward. We made for it without delay, through a nar- row lane extending outwards, and soon reached its termination. At the same time the ice closed rapidly upon us, before a strong north-east wind. We turned about, but it was too late. The boats were repeatedly squeezed ; and mine, which was foremost, was only saved from entire de- struction by throwing out everything it contained upon the floating masses. By means of portages made from one fragment to another, — the oars forming the perilous bridges, — and after repeated risks of boats, men, and baggage being separated '* i". ' t vl 122 ADVKNTUIIES AMONG lt : l; ; by the motion of the ice, wo at length succeeded, with infinite labour, in collectinp^ our whole equi- pa«]fc upon a small floo ; which, being ])artially covered with water, fonned a sort of wet-dock. There we hauled u]) our little vessels, and, mo- mentarily liable as we were to be overwhc'-u^d by the turning over of our icy support, trusted to a gracious Providence for the event. We were three miles from the land ; the fog again settled round us, and the night was very inclement. At 4 next morning, finding that the gale had abated, and the ice relaxed a little around our hazardous ])osition, we pushed for a lane of water that apjieared at a short distance to sea- ward. After a considerable circuit it fortunately led to the shore, about a league to the eastward of our former situation. There, at the foot of a green hill, near a stream, we ei ?amped to await the chances of time and tide. The tracks of reindeer in the vicinity were innumerable. It was high-waier at half-past 1, the tide having risen ten and a half inches. The evening was calm, with a dense fog and drizzling rain. The 19th was dark and cold, the temperature at LDon rising no higher than 39". We were favoured with another visit from a party of our Esquimaux neighbours, apprized of our return by one of their hunters, who chanced to pass i f 1! ESQUIMAUX AND ICE. 123 near our camp. As a mark of confidence, they laid down their bows and arrows, and long Rus- sian knives, as they approached us; but were with difficulty prevented from encroaching on a line of separation marked out upon the beach. At their earnest desire we purchased a few more articles from them. Their weapons are the same as those often described by other tra- vellers : viz. two sorts of bows ; arrows pointed with iron, flint, and bone, or blunt for birds ; a dart with throwing-board for seals ; a spear headed with iron or copper, the handle about six feet long ; and formidable iron knives, equally adapted for throwing, cutting, or stabbing. Two irregular tides were this day observed : the first, of six inches, at 1 in the morning; the other, of eight, about 2 in the afternoon. In both cases the flow api)eared to come from the westward. The weather cleared a little as it grew late ; and, for the first time since we reached the coast, we had the pleasure of seeing the sun at midnight, about twice his own dia- meter above the horizon. His level rays glanced upon a watery space to seaward ; and, hailing the glad prospect, we instantly embarked. Favoured by a fresh easterly breeze, we round- ed the icy pack at the distance of about four miles from the shore. The fog returned; but if V' tf-t 124 APVENTUUKS AMONG wp Htoorod by compass for Fl.'ixman Tsljiiul, which wc roadiod at 5 a. m. on tlio 'JOth. Tii crossiiiiy the mouth of Caiiiiino^ lliver, audi Mas tho strength of the current it emitted that tlie bt)at nearest the shore was turned almost round be- fore tho steersman liad time to be on his guard. At the entrance of tlic bay wliich receives Staines' River wo conhl distinguisli tlirough tho liaze a very hirge Ksquimaux camj), being, in all probability, the western traders, on their way to meet tho various parties we had passed. Tho ice was closely packed on the north side of Flax- man Island, but we ])a«;sed nnobserved by the natives through the channel that divides it from the mainland. Almost benumbed with cold, wo landed to breakfast near Point Bullen. Tho weather again cleared up a little ; and Mount Coplestone, the western termination of the Ro- manzoff chain, appeared through its robe of clouds. The ice became heavier as we advanced, obliging us to keep within the Lion and Reliance reefs ; and at 1 r. m. it entirely arrested our j)ro- gress in Foggy Island Bay. We had scarcely landed, and secured the boats, when a violent north-east gale commenced, overspreading the sky with lurid clouds, and tossing the icy masses like foam upon the waves. The atmosphere cleared in the evening, but it continued to «?f.: e ?s e o ESQUIMAUX AND ICK. 1 -2.5 l)l()w witli ^n*out fury. An iimiicnso herd of roin- (k'lT lijul iL'ccntly pHSsetl, and we saw freHli foot- prints of the natives in pnrsuit. The country is a orassy flat, interspersed witli little lakes well stocked wii', wild fowl. As on the burninir sands of E^'ypt, t c mirage sometimes converted the wlnde |>lain into the scnd)lanco of one vast sheet of water. The portion of the llocky jNIoun- tains visible from the coast does not terminate, as conjectured by Sir John Franklin, with the Romanzoff chain. After a brief interval, another chain commences, less lofty perhai)S, but equally picturesque ; which, in honour of the distinguish- ed otlicer whose discoveries we were following up, we named the Franklin Range. On the 21st the storm raged fiercely, but wo bore with ])atience the detention on witnessing the havoc made among the landward ice. A few miles out to sea, a continuous white line pro- claimed it still unbroken. The beach was strew- ed with sea-wrack, amongst which we picked up some pieces of delicate branched sponge. An incredible number of seals were seen on the shores of this bay. The gale continued during the 22nd, but with less violence. The morning was darkened by fog, and it was bitterly cold. At 7 we stood out, under close-reefed sails, for Point Anxiety. ^ \' I i ( ri' ;. i 12G DISCOVERY OF Si - When we had nearetl it, by our reckoning, we found ourselves barred from the land by a broad stream of heavy ice, extending out to seaward, and lashed by a strong s\A'ell. The fog was so thick that we were in the danger ere we knew of it, and my boat was driven against the ice. With violent exertion she was fended off till the sails filled, and away she dashed upon the other tack. After a few hours' cruise and a thorough drenching we made the shore in the bottom of the bay, about three miles to the west- ward of our former position. At noon, the lat. 70° 9' 48'' N., variation 45° E., were ascertained. The longitude, reduced from Foggy Island, was 147° 30' W. In the afternoon we enjoyed a distinct view of the Franklin Mountains, extending from S. E. to S.W. by S. (true), the central and highest peak bearing S. by E. about twenty miles distant. They were still partially covered with snow ; and the whole range presents a precipitous front to the coast. The storm again increased durino: the evening, and the hardiest among us were glad to assume the warm dresses provided against a winter residence on the shores of the Polar Sea. Sunday, 23rd. — The weather moderated as the morning advanced, and at 10 we once more set t% THE FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS. 127 to sail for Point Anxiety. The ice again prevented our approaching it, and let us far to seaward, till, in passing Yarborough Inlet, the low coast was only visible from the mast-head, distant about six miles. The ice, to our great joy, then turned abruptly in towards Return Reef, which we reached at 9 in the evening. I may here mention that our early arrival at the point where our discoveries were to commence, is, under Providence, mainly attributable to our inflexible perseverance in doubling these great icy packs, any of which might have confined us a fortnight to the beach, had we chosen to wait for its dispersion, or even till its extent could have been ascertained. Our humble thanks were offered to the Omnipotent Being whose arm had guarded us thus far, and we fervently implored a continuance of His gracious protection. Some Esquimaux had been, not long before, engaged in plundering the eggs of the ducks hatching upon the reefs. After supper we resumed our route, and the regular survey began. fi^ 1' ^ V .r..||-^-. ..i..'-i»,. r V t 128 DISCOVERIES FROM RETURN REEF CHAPTER VI. Discoveries on the Coast from Return Reef up to Boat Extreme. » ': I I I July 24tli. — We coasted along Gwydyr Bay, which proved less extensive than we supposed on entering it. The extreme lowness of the land on this part of the coast is very deceptive to the eye when viewed from any distance, and a highly refracting atmosphere increases the il- lusion. We applied the names of Point Back and Point Beechey to the projections agreeing nearest with the hummocks of land seen by Franklin. I must, however, remark that the bearings are different ; and that Point Beechey, distant twelve miles* from Return Reef, is cer- tainly invisible from thence in any state of the atmosphere. The whole bay is protected from the sea by a chain of gravel reefs, on the out- side of which the ice lay hard aground. The * All the coasting distances throughout the journal are given in geographical miles. ■ JliL ' JU.Mii!! TO BOAT EXTREME. 129 are soundings within varied from a quarter to one fathom — a sufficient depth of water for such light craft as ours. Opposite to Point Beechey, and at the dis- tance of a mile to seaward, the gravel reefs are succeeded by a range of low islands, eight miles in length, to which we attached the name of the Rev. David T. Jones, the faithful and eloquent minister at Red River. From Point Milne we en- joyed a transient prospect of another magnificent mountain range, about fifty miles to the west- ward. In honour of the public-spirited Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, this chain was called Polly's Mountains. The coast from Point Beechey has a westerly trending, for twelve miles, to Point Berens, so named after one of the Company's Directors ; which proved to be the commencement of a very extensive bay, the land from thence turning off to the south-west. Coast- ing along it for eight miles, the beach preserved the same low character, consisting of mud and gravel ; the soundings nowhere exceeding seven or eight feet on a bottom of gravel and sand. At length, at 9 a. m., the water shoaled to from one to two feet, and, after seeking in vain for a deeper channel, we were obliged to stand out to sea. We, however, had the satisfaction of tracing the land to the bottom of the bay, into K \ In fil it -•11 ^ ''I :' 1 I i \'. ' 1. J5 , t) n ■ t £ 130 DISCOVERIES FROM RETURN REEF which n. very large river falls; for the water, even at the distance of three leagues to seaward, was perfectly fresh. We called it Colvile River, as a mark of our respect for Andrew Colvile, Esquire, of the Hudson's Bay Company. The wind now freshened, and with it came a dense cold fog that immediately concealed the land. We had great difficulty in extricating ourselves from the shallows formed by the alluvial deposits of the Colvile ; and, after steering fourteen miles north and north-west, till we approached the edge of the ice, found only seven feet water. We then tacked, and steered south-west ; in which direction a stretch of sixteen miles brought us near to, but not within view of, the shore. We followed along it for four miles, keeping close in among the shoals ; the water still quite fresh. Tired of such tedious progress, and being utter- ly unable to distinguish the beach, though we reckoned it to be no more than half a mile distant, we again stood out, for seventeen miles, to the north and north-west ; the greatest depth during this run being one and a half fathoms, and the water salt. The wind had now veered to the northward, driving the ice down upon us; we had not seen land since the morning, and were quite uncertain what direction it might take. We steered westward at a venture, and, after m PWK" TO BOAT EXTREME. 131 %\ 'ter sailing five miles, at length made the shore at midnight. It was with difficulty we found a landing-place on a large fragment of ice, upon which the boats were hauled up. Having fasted for twenty-five hours, and being moreover be- numbed with cold, it will readily be believed that we eagerly set about collecting wood and making a fire to cook our supper, to which, of course, we did ample justice. In gratitude for these seasonable enjoyments, this spot was de- nominated Point Comfort. Most of the party had caught severe colds from the constant ex- posure and unhealthy fogs ; and all would have been incapacitated for wading through the ice- cold water, had it not been for the seal-skin boots procured from the Esquimaux — an invaluable acquisition on such service. Tracks of deer, and of a man and dog, were fresh upon the beach. During the whole of the 25th it blew strongly from the north-east ; which being right a-head, with the flats around us, and a dense fog shroud- ing everything, we were unable to quit our po- sition. That was now bleak and cheerless, the thermometer standing at the freezing point, and little or no wood to be found. I took advan- tage of a few glimpses of sunshine to obtain the lat. 70° 43' N., long. 152° 14' W., variation 43° 8J' E. It was most satisfactory to find, that K 2 if » 4 I th: ;l ;l i::'i I t: it ii 132 DISCOVERIES FROM RETURN REEF in one extraordinary run ^VG had thus made good three degrees, tvventy-tM'o minutes, of westing, or nearly half the distance between Return Reef and Point Barrow. I ought here to remark, that we were not provided by the Company with chro- nometers, but that the want was efficiently sup- plied by a very valuable watch, generously lent to the expedition by Chief Factor Smith. While in search of wood, a mile or two from the en- campment, some of our people had another view of Felly's Mountains, now south-east of us, and not more than twenty miles distant. The in- tervening country consists of plains clothed with very short grass and moss, the favourite pasture of the reindeer, of which some large herds were seen. The immediate coast-line is formed of frozen mud-banks, from ten to fifteen feet high. About a mile to the northward we discovered another splendid river, flowing from the south- west, and named it after Nicholas Garry, Esquire, whose name has long been associated with Arctic research. It was high- water on the 26th at 6 in the morning ; the wind having raised the tide about two feet, which enabled us safely to cross the shoals. The weather had become clear and in- tolerably cold. We found the mouth of the Garry one mile wide, and its banks thickly co- *1 II' I 1 TO BOAT EXTREME. 133 vered with drift timber, evidently brought down by the stream. Though now full tide, the water tasted fresh for several miles. From thence the land trended north-east, for eight miles, to a small island, separated from the mainland by a channel too shallow for boats. This island ap- peared to be a favourite r^^r^vt of the natives in the spring, for we found a spot where baidars had been built, and picked up an antler cut asunder with a saw. There is little question but these were some of the people whose camp we saw on the 20th near Flaxman Island. The lat. 70° ir 45" N., long. 151° 55' 30" W., were here observed ; and this remarkable point was named Cape Halkett, in compliment to one of the Company's Directors. It terminates the great bay, which, from Point Berens, is forty- three geographical, or fifty statute miles, in breadth. On this spacious basin, which receives the waters of two noble rivers, we conferred the name of Harrison Bay, in honour of the Deputy Governor of the Company, whose attention has long been sedulously directed to the moral and religious improvement of the natives of the In- dian country. From Cape Halkett the coast resumes its westerly trending, and for fifteen miles presents to the eye nought but a succession of low banks of frozen mud. The substratum I ■■ i. m i 134 DISCOVERIES FROM RETURN REEF ^> *!: •v. I consists of a yellow clay, thinly covered with vegetable soil, which nourishes short grass and a variety of mosses. Many reindeer were seen as we coasted along. These swift-footed crea- tures came to the bank in small herds, gazed at us for a moment, and then bounded out of sight. We could not spare time for the chase. The ice was very heavy all along this part of the coast, and but very recently detached from the beach. We made tolerable progress through the narrow and intricate channels, the soundings averaging one fathom, on a sandy bottom. After rounding a point, distinguished by the name of the Right Honourable Edward Ellice, the mud- banks are succeeded by gravel reefs ; which, at a short distance, are intersected by the mouths of a considerable river, named after William Smith, Esquire, Secretary to the Hudson's Bay Company. For ten miles the external line is formed by these reefs, on which large mounds of mud and shingle have been raised by the tremendous pressure of the ice. Several shal- low channels appeared within, but they were not navigable. Point Pitt, the northernmost spot passed during this day's march, is situated in lat. 70° 53', long. 152° 54'. A few miles on either side of it, we observed a stream of discoloured fresh water miim I I i <. .o w iioiii mmimm r li TO BOAT EXTREME. 135 rushing tli rough the reefs, i)robably from a con- siderable lake, but the atmosphere was too hazy for ascertaining the fact. At the last of these streams the mud-banks recommenced. The water becoming much shallower, with numerous sunken masses of ice, we were obliged to stand out from the shore. A fog-bank, looking at first very like land, now came driving on us be- fore a strong north-east wind. After sailing some distance to seaward, we found ourselves em- bayed in the ice ; and, on wearing round, one of the rudders gave way. The weather was dark, stormy, and so cold that the boats were in- crusted with ice. We, however, escaped from this dangerous situation without further damage ; and after a hard tug at the oars, in the teeth of the wind, we effected a landing at midnight on one of the numerous blocks of ice adhering to the shore. The men had to search for wood a good way off, and while so employed fell in with a herd of deer ; but, though our three best marks- men started in pursuit, they returned in the morning without success. 27th. — On examining the vicinity, we disco- vered a large reindeer pound, simply contrived with double rows of turf set up to represent men, and inclosing a space of ground lower than the rest. The inclosure was two miles broad at I \i , t i^ . ,4 i ■ 136 DISCOVERIES FROM RETURN REEF the beach, and narrowed towards a lake of some extent, where the unsuspecting animals are sur- rounded and speared in the water. On the shore were the remains of an Esquimaux camp. The earth was impenetrably frozen at the depth of four inches, so that our tent-pegs could not be driven home. Even this miserable soil pro- duced a few flowers, but nothing new to add to our collection ; and, since entering on new ground, not a rock in situ, or even a boulder-stone, had yet been found. The point of our encampment was about twenty feet high ; and across the deer- pound, at the distance of four miles, the land formed another point of equal elevation. These two points we named after Messrs. A. R. M'Leod and M. M'Pherson, two gentlemen to whose good offices the expedition is under great obli- gations. About noon we observed, with plea- sure, the ice beginning to open, and at 2 discovered a narrow lane of water leading out from the land, and apparently turning again in- wards a few miles farther on. It blew a cuttinff blast from the north-east, and the spray froze upon the oars and rigging. Yet were we now in the midst of the Dog-days, that pre-eminent season of sunshine and beauty in more favoured lands ! Having made our way, with consider- able risk, amongst the ice, for seven miles, we ^ ! n I« »•• miiMiin TO BOAT EXTREME. 137 reached a point, named after Richard Drew, Esquire, of the Hudson's Bay Company, where the land turned suddenly off at a right angle to the southward. We now found ourselves in a large and very shallow bay, which we had much pleasure in naming after our worthy friend Chief Factor Smith, to whose unwearied aid in pre- paring the expedition for sea we were so deeply indebted. Near the middle of this bay a con- cealed reef ran far out, upon which lay a stream of floating ice, lashed by the breakers. We were at the same time partially enveloped in fog, but after an hour of hazardous labour we forced our way through the narrowest part of the bar- rier. Though the boats received repeated con- cussions, and took in much water among the surf, we were delighted to find that, after baling, they continued perfectly tight. We now made the best of our way, north-west and north, through the flats, sailing, poling, or pulling, in the verge of the ice, as wind and water served. Though we kept a vigilant look-out, my boat struck its stem forcibly against a piece of ice, the shock starting the iron fastenings of the foremast thaft, fortunately without doing any other injury. Far- ther out in the bay the ice lay smooth and solid, as in the depth of a sunless winter. So un- broken was its appearance, that some among il i It I ii r ■ • 138 DISCOVERIES FROM RETURN REEF the party 1oii! < » H»n to the westward. A few of us took our stati' u upon hummocks of ice, and shot above a hundred of these largo birds. They formed an acceptable change of diet, being fat, and good eating, though rather oily. At various times we saw along the coast, but in comparatively small numbers, Canada, laugliing, and Ilutchin's* geese, large dun-coloured ducks, gold*^n and red-breasted plovers, boatswains, gulls, u ahern divers, snow buntings, and ptarmigan. The claw of a middle- sized Polar bear was here picked up ; likewise H \ * Called " bruUards" by the voyageurs, from their com- plaining cry. 140 DISCOVERIES FROM RETURN REEF S' some small scattered pieces of light-coloured granite, blueish-green slate, and red sand-stone. Sunday, 30tli. — At mid-day the temperature rose as high as 46", and the fog partially cleared off for about three hours. Tliis interval was em- ployed in astronomical observations, which placed our encampment in lat. 71° 1' 44" N., long. 154^ 22' 63" W., variation 42° 36' 18" E. Little or no change was perceptible in the ice. Just at midnight the opaque misty veil was drawn aside, as if by magic, and revealed to view a party- coloured sky in the north, richly illuminated by the rays of the sun, now almost touching the horizon. The effect was as beautiful as novel to us; but it was evanescent, and only served to aggravate the deep and settled gloom which soon involved that bright vision and everything besides. The ice appearing somewhat loosened on the morning of the 31st, we embarked at 9, and forced our way through the crowded masses for about two miles, with serious risk to the boats. In this sort of progress, to which we so frequently had recourse, it must be understood that, except the bowman or steersman, all the crew were out upon the ice, with poles, pushing aside and fend- ing off the successive fragments. The advance thus effected was always slow, painful, and pre- ) I -* .-*»>« r—**i»' ««j«f>y?!!aie!iJ"JiL?J!Si"---^* TO BOAT EXTREME. 141 carious ; and we considered ourselves particularly fortunate whenever we found a natural channel through the ice wide enough to admit our little boats. These narrow channels were generally very crooked ; and, when carrying sail, it required the utmost tact on the part of the steersman, aided by the look-out in the bows, and men on either side standing ready with poles, to avoid the innumerable floating rocks — if I may use the expression — that endangered this intricate navi- gation. Again were we stopped, and compelled to encamp. From the extreme coldness of the weather, and the interminable ice, the farther advance of our boats appeared hopeless. In four days we had only made good as many miles ; and, in the event of a late return to the Mackenzie, we had every reason to apprehend being set fast in Bear Lake River, or, at least, at Fort Franklin, which would have been ruinous to our future plans. I there- fore lost no time in imparting to Mr. Dease my desire of exploring the remainder of the coast to Point Barrow on foot. In order to secure the safe retreat of the party, he handsomely con- sented to remain with the boats; and, as Point Barrow was still distant only two degrees of lon- gitude, ten or twelve days were considered suffi- cient for my return, making every allowance for -' - 142 DISCOVERIES TO BOAT EXTREME. bays, inlets, and other irregularities of the coast. The men having, to their credit, unanimously volunteered to accompany me, 1 selected live, M'Kay, Tuylor, Morrison, Felix, and Morin, who were directed to hold themselves in readiness the following morning. M t I \r.} MMi|||W|MMW«IWWjW||B!|i^^ 143 CHAPTER VII. c,l Journey on foot, and in an Esquimaux canoe, to Point Barrow. — Conduct of the Natives. August 1st. — My little party quitted Boat Extreme on foot at 8 a.m. Our provisions con- sisted of pemican and flour ; besides which, each man carried his blanket, spare shoes, gun, and ammunition. A single kettle and a couple of axes sufiiced for us all ; and a few trinkets were added for the natives. I carried a sextant and artificial horizon ; and one man was charged with a canvass canoe, stretched on its wooden frame, which proved not the least important part of our arrangements. The whole amounted to forty or fifty pounds per man — about a quarter of the weight carried by the voyageurs across the portages of the interior. The day was dark and dismal in the extreme, a cutting north wind bearing on its wings a fog that hid every object at the distance of a hundred yards. We were, therefore, under the necessity of closely following the coast-line, 144 JOURNEY TO POINT BARROW. ii •. I f .' 1 t' ft I I, which much increased the distance and fatigue. The land is very low, and intersected by innu- merable salt creeks. In fording these we were constantly wet to the waist, and the water was dreadfully cold. We crossed a strong deep river, and a shallow inlet, half a mile broad, in our portable canoe, which transported us all at two trips. The former was subsequently ascertained by Sinclair, after whom I called it, to issue from a large brackish body of water about five miles from our ferry. The latter, to which I gave the name of our other guide, M'Kay, receives a stream at no great distance from where we crossed it, for its waters flowed gently towards the sea, and were nearly fresh. Our route was tortuous in the extreme, and we had ascended M'Kay's inlet for several miles before we could distinguish the opposite shore. We passed during the day many large Esquimaux sledges, exceedingly well put together, and stoutly shod with horn. These vehicles were, in all proba- bility, left here by the people of the great camp at Staines' River, on their eastward journey, to be resumed on their return when winter sets in. We also saw innumerable tracks of reindeer, and the trail of two hunters. Several Canada geese, with their young brood, ran across our path, but I did not allow them to be fired at. The snow 1 1 ^biMW**"* —se P^F JOURNEY TO POINT BARROW. 145 geese {anser hyperborem) do not appear to fre- quent this coast, being replaced by the large white-backed ducks already mentioned. The former retire, in the autumn, south and south- east, by Athabasca and Hudson's Bay; the latter direct their flight towards Behring's Strait. Having accomplished twenty miles at 7 p.m., we found a grassy plat, with a few pieces of wood. Little or none of that essential article had been seen during the day, this part of the coast being shut out from the action of the sea by a chain of reefs. Here then we encamped, half-congealed by the cold wet fog and wind, which incrusted our clothes with hoar-frost and ice, as in the severity of winter. Unfortunately, the spot where we halted was wet beneath the deceitful surface ; and, being quite exposed to the weather, we passed a miserable night. When our march was resumed next morning, the weather had sensibly improved. A dull rain- bow spanned the wet fog, which soon cleared off, and we enjoyed some hours of pleasant sunshine. The land, which so far had led north-westerly, soon turned sharply off to S.S.W., forming an acute angle, well termed Point Tangent. The gravel reefs here separate from the muddy beach, and stretch, as I found on our return, in a direct line of eleven miles to Boat Extreme, enclosing il WWSiSSfeaWWWWOWtMjwiis' ir 14C JOURNEY TO POINT BARROW. I « : \ 1 I the singularly shaped bay, of which we had now completed the tedious circuit, and on which I conferred the appropriate title of Fatigue Bay. After turning Point Tangent, I obtained a meri- dian altitude of the sun, which determined the latitude to be 71° 9' 45" N. ; longitude, by the reckoning, 154° 52' W. We immediately after traversed an inlet, a quarter of a mile wide, in our portable canoe. On the bank three Arctic foxes were sporting, and allowed us to approach pretty near before they ran into their holes. We saw many tracks of reindeer, still pursued by the two hunters, who had very lately been successful, for we found the remains of a fire, beside which lay the head and antlers of a deer. After tra- velling about ten miles, and wading through many a salt creek, the waters of which were at the freezing temperature, the land, to our dis- may, turned off to the eastward of south, and a boundless inlet lay before us. Almost at the same instant, to our inexpressible joy, we descried four Esquimaux tents, at no great distance, with figures running about. We immediately directed our steps towards them ; but, on our approach, the women and children threw themselves into their canoes, and pushed off from the shore. I shouted " Kabloonan teyma Inueet," meaning, " We are white men, friendly to the Esquimaux ;" :a • rsamesoB CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. 147 upon which glad news the whole party hurried ashore, and almost overpowered us with caresses. The men were absent, hunting, with the ex- ception of one infirm individual, who, sitting under a reversed canoe, was tranquilly engaged in weaving a fine whalebone net. Being unable to make his escape with the rest, he was in an agony of fear ; and, when I first went up to him, with impotent hand he made a thrust at me with his long knife. He was, however, soon convinced of our good intentions ; and his first request was for tobacco, of which we found men, women, and even children inordinately fond. This taste they have, of course, acquired in their indirect inter- course with the Russians ; for the Esquimaux we had last parted with were ignorant of the luxury. Our new friends forthwith brought us some fresh venison ; and, concluding, not without reason, that we were very hungry, they presented, as a particular delicacy, a savoury dish of choice pieces steeped in seal-oil. Great was their sur- prise when we declined their favourite mess ; and their curiosity in scrutinizing the dress, persons, and complexions of the first white men they had ever beheld, seemed insatiable. They shewed us, with evident satisfaction, their winter store of oil, secured in seal-skin bags buried in the frozen earth. Some of their reindeer robes, ivory dishes, and L 2 148 JOURNEY TO POINT BARROW. other trifles wore piircliased ; Jind I cxclian<>e(l the tin pan, which constituted my whole table service, for a platter made out of a mammotli tusk ! This relic of an antediluvian world con- tained my two daily messes of pemican through- out the remainder of the journey. It is seven inches long, four wide, and two deep ; and is ex- actly similar to one figured by Captain Beechey at Escholtz Bay, only the handle is broken off. Confidence being now fully established, I told them that I required one of their oomiaks, or large family canoes, to take us two or three days' journey — or sleeps, as they term it — to the west- ward ; after which we should return. These skin boats float in half a foot of water. No ice was visible from the tents ; and, from the trending of the coast, it was more than doubtful that our journey could have been accomplished in any reasonable time on foot. They acceded to my demand, without a scruple. We selected the best of three oomiaks ; obtained four of their slender oars, which they used as tent-poles, be- sides a couple of paddles; fitted the oars with lashings ; and arranged our strange vessel so well that the ladies were in raptures, declaring us to be genuine Esquimaux, and not poor white men. Whilst my companions were thus employed, I procured, from the most intelligent of the wo- •,« im II * i .xMHMMi*! «•" CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. 149 men, a sketch of the inlet before us, and of the coast to the westward, as far as her knowledge extended. She represented the inlet as very deep ; that they make many encampments in travelling round it ; but that it receives no river. She also drew a bay of some size to the west- ward ; and the old man added a long and very narrow projection, covered with tents, which T could not doubt to mean Point Barrow. The first and only rock seen in the whole extent of our discoveries — an angular mass of dark-coloured granite — lay off the point without the tents. We were just embarking when the hunters arrived. After exchanging a brief greeting, we gave each a piece of tobacco, distributed some rings and beads among the women and children, and took our departure. Scarcely had we left the shore when a strong north-east wind sprung up from seaward, bringing back the cold dense fog. We could not see a hundred yards ahead, but steered due west, by compass, across the inlet, which at this narrowest part proved to be five miles wide. I had much gratification in naming it Dease Inlet, as a mark of true esteem for my worthy colleague. The waves ran high on the passage, but our new craft surmounted them with won- derful buoyancy. The coast we attained was from ten to fifteen feet high, and the ground was ■ill in 150 JOURNEY TO I'OINT HARROW. i i t ' I; I.\l 1! solidly frozen within two inches of the surface. Not a morsel of drift wood was tu be found in this land of desolation ; but we followed the example of the natives, and made our tiny fire of the roots of the dwarf willow, between three upright pieces of turf. Our oomiak turned to windward, and propped up with the paddles, formed a good shelter; and under it we stowed ourselves snugly away for the night. The weather clearing a little, we set off at 8 a.m. on the 3rd. We found the ice close-jammed aloiig the shore, which ran out for five miles to the north- ward. The wind blew bitterly from the east ; and, as we had to weather the pack, we were exposed to a heavy breaking swell, which soon drenched us to the skin, and, notwithstanding the admirable qualities of our boat, half filled it with water. Halting to bale out the intrusive element in the lee of a mass of ice, wc found, to our surprise, that the muddy bottom was still impenetrably frozen. We breakfasted at the northern point of land, on a gravel reef, where some drift wood had been washed up. Here I obtained an observation, placing us in lat. 71° 12' 36' N. ; long., by ac- count, 155° 18' W. It afforded me unfeigned pleasure to call this point after Chief Factor Christie, a warm personal friend, and also a zealous promoter of the interests of the expe- >*M»> rONDlCT OF TIIK NATIVEiS. 151 (litioii. Lofty icebergs appeared to weaward ; (lark-coloured seals were sporting among tlio masses in-sliore ; and one of those gelatinous sub- stances called by sailors " sea-bluljber" was, for the first time, seen floating in Dease Inlet. From Point Christie the low coast, consisting of mud and sand, with a facing of ice, again turns west- ward for eight miles. We proceeded through the shallow oi)enings between the detached ice and the shore, passing Point Charles and Point liovvand, and crossing Uoss Bay, so named in compliment to three valued friends, partners in the fur trade. A dense fog again enshrouded us ; and, on doubling Point llowand, an opening, of which we could not discover the extent, led away to the southward. F therefore put ashore at 5 p. M. to sup, and examine the country. The soil consisted of hard dry clay, bearing patches of very short grass, and imbedding some splinters of granite, slate, and sand-stone. Of these I gathered sj)ecimens ; but they were un- luckily lost, together with a collection of pebbles from Point Barrow, through the ignorance of my men in emptying the canoe on our return. In about two hours a bright opening appeared in the east, which speedily extended athwart the heavens ; and at length the sun shone out with cheerful radiance, dispelling the detestable fogs. n\ U!" •»- .. 1'^ i r Is ' ') 1 152 JOURNKY TO POINT HAUR-. ,'••'<'■ and ivst()rin<»" us to the li^^lit of day. I now tiis- covLivd that vvc woiv in the mouth of a scmi- circndar bny, four niilus in diiinietur, which [ iianicd after Chief Factor Roderick Mackenzie. It was soon traversed ; and its depth midway was found to be one and a lialf fathoms, on a sandy bottom. The coast then trended W.N.W., ex- hibitln MmM*H»'~-4»' -M>*'«lM>kJiia^# pq-^ ^^■^- *i li*! CONDUCT or THE NATIVKS. 153 1 ill tlic nioniiiig of tliu 4tli, wlioii this joy- ful Biglit iiK't my oyos. His early rays decked tlie clouds ill splendour as I poured forth my grateful orisons to the Father of Light, who had guided our stejis securely through every difficulty and danger. We had now only to pass Elson Bay, M'hich is for the most part shallow. It was co- vered with a tough coat of young ice, through which we broke a passage ; and then forced our way amid a heavy pack, nearly half a mile broad, that rested upon the shore. On reaching it, and seeing the ocean spreading far and wide to the south-west, we unfurled our flag, and with three enthusiastic cheers took possession of our disco- veries in his Majesty's name. Point Barrow is a long low spit, composed of gravel and coarse sand, forced up by the pres- sure of the ice into numerous mounds, that, viewed from a distance, might be mistaken for gigantic boulders. At the spot where we landed it is only a quarter of a mile across, but is con- siderably wider towards its termination, where it subsides into a reef running for some distance in an easterly direction, and partly covered by the sea. One of the first objects that presented itself, on looking around, was an immense ce- metery. There the miserable remnants of hu- manity lay on the ground, in the seal-skin dresses i^' lit i I \ ! 154 JOURNEY TO POINT BARROW. worn wliilo alive. A few were covered with an old sledge or some pieces of wood, but far the greater number were entirely exposed to the vo- racity of dogs and wild animals. The bodies here lay with the heads turned north-east, towards the extremity of the point ; and many of them ap- peared so fresh, that my followers caught the alarm that the ehokra or some other dire dis- ease was raging among the Esquimaux. We had landed half-way between a winter village and a summer camp of these people, situated about three miles asunder; and, as it was very early in the morning, they were, perhaps, roused from their slumbers by our shouts when the Bri- tish standard was first planted on their shores. It will be remembered by those conversant in northern voyages, that, in August 1826, Mr. El- son, who commanded the Blossom's barge, judged it imprudent, from the hostile demeanour of the natives, to land on this point, and that his obser- vations were taken on an iceberg near the shore. On the present occasion, whether from astonish- ment or suspicion, none of the Esquimaux ven- tured towards us. Trusting to the superiority of our arms, and the effect of a frank and confident bearing, I resolved to antici))ate the meeting. The yourls near the extremity of the point ap- I)eared very numerous, but I could not, through !. r 9'. fi A,.,-. — tia—M^w— www— «ii««iw»« ri'a i i T ii i- ' » i» ■■i • | -r"^ unw iii HW !■■ "" m i» CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES. 163 aside, laughingly dug them out of tlio sand ; and we bade them farewell. No sooner had we ])ushed off, than the men crowded together, as if to hold a consultation. Their countenances grew dark ; and they called out to us to keep along shore, towards the extremity of the point. This could only have been intended to deceive, for wo were at the very narrowest part of the icy bar, where alone it was practicable to reach open water. We therefore disregarded their in- sidious advice, recollecting the warning of the Loucheux ; and, if evil was meant, were soon out of their power. With great labour, and some damage to our canoe, we forced our way again through and over the heavy pack of ice, A\hicli had considerably increased in breadth. Then, re- crossing Elson Bay, we continued on through the narrow channels leading along the shore, till, on rounding Point Rose, the ice became so closely locked that farther progress was impossible, and we encamped to enjoy some rest, having had none the previous night. The evening was calm and fine, but new ice formed on the beach. 5th. — An easterly wind most seasonably loosen- ed the pack of ice this morning ; and, taking an early breakfast, we re-embarked. The day was clear and serene ; and I took advantage of it, as we coasted Imck, to correct the bearings of the M 2 u ii I h'^: i l\ ■ iW ! 164 JOURNEY TO POINT BARROW. liuid, which had boon ohscurcd l)v foix on the outward journoy. Tlio reindrei' soenied ani- mated by tlic unwonted fineness r/i tlio weather, and were grazing in great numbers near the shore. In Dease Inlet three noble bucks stood so nigh the bank, that I landed with Tayh)r to get a shot. The deer could not see us ; but we had not crawled far towards them, when, warned by their acute sense of smell, they tossed up their antlers, whose tips guided our approach, and started off as if impelled by wings across the ])lain. The ebbing tide ran strongly out of the iidet as we traversed it in the evening. The depth midway was two fathoms, on a bottom of mud. Our Esquimaux friends seemed over- joyed at (mr return, and ^^ould fain have de- tained us all night : but, not choosing to lose the fli'.o weather, I told them we must be off immediately ; and, as we still stood in need of their valuable canoe, I invited some of the men to accompany us to Boat Extreme, where they should be liberally recompensed. Four of them accordingly embarked in their kayaks ; of whose speed, with their mode of shooting their arrows and darting their lances, they gave us an ample exhibition. We ourselves struck up some French and Highland boat-songs, which probably for the first time resounded from an Esquimaux i h 1 i •■ tmfMitMiaum.'.s.,. '^i.JM ' Mt!^ CONDUCT OF Tin: NATIVES. IGD oil tlic 'd ani- e.'ithcr, •ar the s stood ylor to but we Avarnod sed up preach, across out of The bottom 1 over- ve de- :o lose be off cod of e men 3 they ' them whose irrows ample 'rench y for maux baidar, aud undoubtedly for the first time as- sailed the ears of our auditory. These evinced tlieir love of harmony, indifferent as it was, by instantly relinquishing their sports, bending their heads down to the water, and beating on their breasts, whilst their little sparkling eyes shewed the gratification they felt. The Loucheux pos- sess the same sensibilitv, and have often en- treated JNIr. Dease to 'tertain them with his violin. The morose dipewyans, on the other hand, seemed almost devoid of this taste, and their only attempts at singing are borrowed from the Crees. We landed for supper beside a brook of fresh water ; a very unfrequent object on this frozen, nmd-walled coast, where our drink was usually drawn from the icebergs. Our savage companions were in high spirits, and repeated to me a number of their words, most of which correspond with those given in the journal of Sir Edward Parry's second voyage, or vary only in the termination ; but a few are entirely dif- ferent. The sun set at a quarter to 11. Sunday, 6th. — Our route was resumed a few minutes after midnight, much against the in- clination of the Esquimaux, who wanted to sleep. At Point Tangent we found two other lodges, which had sprung up since we passed on foot. The inmates had evidently been at our boats, •». IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■" Ki |2.2 but. ^ 11111^4 m /I ^>. V Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0 (716) 873-4503 \ iV [v ■o^ \ c\ />/«. ^''t \ >. ^^' l(i(J JOLKNKY TO TOINT BARROW. I for they wore some of our c.ist-away iiioccassins. Our escort here declined ^oinnf any farther, and demanded an axe for their canoe, the very ])ricc paid for one by Mr. Klson on the other side of Point Barrow. I immediately ^ave them one of our axes, totyether with all the tobacco we had left ; and my bowman was in the act of shovinfT off, when the stranoers, nine in number, seized the canoe, with the intention of dragging it ashore. On my ])ointing my gun at them they desisted ; but quick as thought they snatched their bows and quivers, expecting to take us by sur- prise. AVhen, however, they saw the whole crew ready for the combat, they lowered their tone of defiance ; and I remarked with a smile, that, as sometimes happens in more civilized communities, the most blustering, turbulent fel- low was the first to shew the white feather. The rascal's cojiper physiognomy fairly blanched, and his trembling hand refused to lay the " cloth- yard shaft" to the bowstring, as the others had done. A\'hen the threatened fray was blown over, I explained, as well I could, to the ag- gressors, that the visit and intentions of the whites were altogether friendly ; but we parted in mutual distrust. We followed the outside of the reefs enclosing Fatigue Bay. 'I'hey are intersected by several broad dee]) channels, tliat VK:* CONUICT OF THE NATIVES. lor allow egress to the waters of the rivers ami creeks crossed on our outward journey. The tide l)eing in, we found a suHicicnt passage for our small vessel between the n^^fs and the heavy ice. The morning was bright and lovely, and the rapid dash of our light oars })roved that we felt its exhilarating influence. At 5 a.m. we aroused our still slumbering comrades at Boat Extreme, and received their warm congratula- tions on the early and successful termination of our discoveries. I now learned from Mr. Dease that the natives at the last tents had left him two days before ; and, on departing, had helped themselves to some silver tea-sj)oons, and one or two other articles, out of his travelling-case, while he lay asleep in his tent. Their dread of pursuit or punishment must therefore have been the cause of their dissuading our four comi)a- nions from ])rocceding farther, and of their united attempt upon our canoe, which so nearly led to a fatal conflict. This was the only successful theft that occurred on the whole voyage. INIr. Dease had observed a pretty regular semi-diurnal tide, which rose on an average fifteen inches, and came along the reefs from the noyt/t-west. This coincides with my own remarks at Point Barrow, except that there the tide flows from the south-west, because such is the trending of i 1G8 JOURNKY TO POINT HARROW. the land to Bebriiio's Straits. There can, there- fore, remain no donbt that this western part of the Arctic Sea receives its tides from the Pacific. r obtained astronomical observations, placing Boat Extreme in lat. 71° 3' 24" N., long. 154" 26' 30" W. ; and it gave me peculiar pleasure to find that, since the 30th July, notwithstand- ing all the walking and exposure, my excellent watch had altered only one and a half seconds from mean time. As we no longer required the canoe, which had rendered us such inestimable service, it was laid up securely on the beach for its former owners, uho, we were certain, Mould before long repair to our deserted encampment. -t.. --?5c:r- 100 CHAPTER VIII. Return of the Expedition from Boat Extreme to the Macken- zie. — Ascent of that river. — Boisterous passage of Great Bear Lake. — Arrival at Winter-quarters. August C. — Shortly after noon, the expedi- tion, now liappily reunited, commenced its return to :Mackenzie River. Being favoured by a light wind, and a comparatively clear sea, we steered straight across Smith Bay. In Boat Creek, be- hind Point M'Pherson, M'hicli we entered to sup, we found abundance of drift wood and traces of Esquimaux. Re-embarking, we continued our course all night, under easy sail, along the land. At 11 next day we reached Cape Ilalkett, where we breakfasted, and halted for some time. The weather was unsettled, and several smart showers of rain fell. The wind was light, and now right ahead for crossing Harrison Bay, which, however, we resolved to attempt. After proceeding eleven miles in a direct course for Point Berens, the rai)id driving of the clouds seemed to indicate an approaching gale off the r I [ ' 170 RETURN FROM BOAT EXTRKMK land. We were at this tiiiu' '* >>iiK TO Tin: MACKKNZIK UIVKU. 177 tiring tlio Kignals [hoy uv.uh' us from the t«)ps oftlu'lr woiMk'ii Iiuts; but, wliilo ut breakfast at Doinaroatlou Point, fivi» of the mon joincMl us. After ndvaiiein;^ about two liours lon m ■I I ? in Stainos' River, as we travelled during the night, and often out of sight of land, and they were perhai)S dispersed along the lakes and in- lets, to hunt the reindeer, after ending the trade with their eastern brethren. In the evening the Esquimaux had a le.aping-match with our j)eople, in which one of the former bore away the })alm. A guard was set during the night. It was high- water about 4 o'clock, both p. m. and a. m. ; rise of the tide six inches. The wind having fallen and the ice relaxed in the forenoon of the 12tli, we pushed out through it to gain clear water. The day was bright and fine. The mountains stood forth in all the rugged boldness of their outline, dis- j)laying their naked rocky peaks .and steep de- scents with such marvellous distinctness that they seemed to touch the coast of which they form the bulwarks. The swell being with us, as long as the calm continued we made some progress with the oars ; but a northerly breeze springing up raised such a cross sea that we were in imminent danger of foundering, when we pro- videntially discovered an opening through the ice, leading into the mouth of a small stream — between Backhouse and Malcolm rivers — flow- ing from an inner basin, where we found a se- cure and pleasant harbour. It was now 3 p. m.; m TO THE MACKENZIE RIVER. 179 they lid in- trade g the )eople, palm, higli- ; rise and, incited by the beauty of the weather, I ascended the nearest hill, six or seven miles dis- tant, whence I enjoyed a truly sublime prospect. On either hand arose the British and Buckland Mountains, exhibiting an infinite diversity of shade and form; in front lay the blue boundless ocean strongly contrasted with its broad glittering girdle of ice; beneath yawned ravines a thou- sand feet in depth, through which brawled and sparkled the clear alpine streams ; while the sun, still high in the west, shed his softened beams through a rich veil of saffron- coloured clouds that overcanopied the gorgeous scene. Bands of reindeer, browsing on the rich pasture in tlie valleys and along the brooks, imparted life and animation to tho picture. Reluctantly I returned to the camp at sunset. We were detained next day by the ice and a contrary wind. The latitude 69° 35' 29" was observed, and the thermometer rose to 48"^. The sun set brightly at a quarter past 9. The 14th was likewise fine, but the east-wind blew too strongly, and the ice was in too violent motion for the prosecution of our voyage. AVe made the most of the detention by rambling about tiie skirt of the mountains, Mhere two fine does were shot ; and T almost envied the Indians and Esquimaux, who, dispersed along the rivers N 2 180 RETURN FROM BOAT EXTREME in and in the valleys, were now enjoying the brief season with that zest which perfect freedom alone can give. A few stars were visible to- night ; the aurora also made its first appearance. 15th. — The wind fell, and at 5 a. m. we em- barked. It was one of those glorious mornings whoso enlivening power all nature acknowledges. A copious dew had fallen, the air breathed light and balmy, and the deer bounded across the plains. As we advanced, the mirage played some strange antics on the water, which it elevated on the north and west sides into the similitude of two highly inclined planes, gar- nished with innumerable icebergs, apparently ready to topple over upon us as we rowed through this mimic valley. The high land of Herschel Island assumed distorted and varying shapes, and it was not till 5 in the afternoon that we reached the strait separating it from the main shore. After passing this channel, we encountered a rolling swell that much retarded our progress. A good many natives were seen as we coasted along, some of whom came alongside, welcomed us back from afar (awane)^ inquired about the last camps of their countrymen we had seen, and were no less delighted than astonished when we read the names of some of them from our i ! i; TO THE MACKENZIE RIVER. 181 brief ?dom to- ice. em- note-books. At 10 p. M. the moon, now at the full, and seen for the first time since our leav- ing Athabasca, arose, and, after lowly circling over the eminences next the coast, set again long before the reappearance of the sun. At 1 next morning we reached Point Stokes, where wc supped, and were soon visited by the women and junior branches of several Esqui- maux families, who told us that the men were all hunting in the interior. We asked one or two of the young lads to accompany us, with a view of training them as interpreters for the eastern voyage; but they peremptorily refused. Resuming our route, we at 6 reached Point Kay, where we halted till the afternoon to rest and refresh our wearied men. During this i nterval the thermometer ascended to 54", and a sea-bath was a real luxury. Several native families visited us. They con- firmed what the remarkable clearness of the atmosphere had discovered to us ; that the Bab- bage is at this time of year an insignificant stream, but swells into a torrent in the spring when the mountain snows dissolve. This great reduction in the volume of water discharged into the sea accounts for the fact, that some deep channels in the reefs, through which our boats entered on the outward voyage, were • : ■ fJ il >'i i I) * *i ( V ; ) I* w '\ lli!) 182 KETIJUN FROM BOAT lATREME now completely filled up. Ainonp^ the gravel two pieces of pitch-coal were found. One of the young half-breeds killed a brace of ducks at a shot, much to the amazement of the Es- quimaux, who begged for the birds as a great curiosity. As the twilight drew on, numerous fires blazed along the beach, round which groups of natives were collected, many of whom came oflT to us. Near Point King we had eleven fathoms' water, with a clear sandy bottom, and four small whales were seen in the oflBng. At midnight we once more landed on Shingle Point, where we were much harassed, during the few hours we stayed, by a large and motley party of Esquimaux. While the men slept in the boats, INIr. Dease and I kept gu^ird on the beach, but had the utmost diflficulty in preventing pil- fering, though we had made our unwelcome visitants the usual presents. One hideous dwarf- ish creature was particularly troublesome, and, in spite of our precautions, a frying-pan was miss- ing out of the bow of my boat in the morn- ing. Upon my demanding restitution, the of- fender was pointed out; and I was in the act of going up to him, when he drew his long knife upon me, and at the same moment M'Kay called out that one of his accomplices was bend- ing his bow to transfix me through the back. \ h ' 1 11 m^^ TO THE MACKENZIE RIVER. 183 ' 1 turned round in time to prevent the treach- erous design, and, as our people were prepared to support us, the Es(piiinaux were glad to submit; and an old man produced the bone of contention from under a pile of drift wood.* 1 may here remark, that, except at Point Bar- row, we invariably found the arrogance of the natives to increase in due proportion with their numbers. The moderation and forbearance of the whites are, in their savage minds, ascribed to weakness or pusillanimity; while the fierce- ness of the Loucheux and ISIountain Indians inspires terror. Notwithstanding the deceitful good-humour of the Esquimaux, I have no hesitation in asserting, that, were they in pos- session of fire-arms, it would require a stronger force than ours to navigate their coasts. We gladly re-embarked at 5 in the morning of the 17th. The weather was delightful, but the wind adverse, and our progress consequently slow. The hills still clothed in verdure charmed the eye, and indicated our near approach to the milder climate of the Mackenzie. After several hours' labour in passing the flats of Shoal water Bay, with the ebbing evening tide, we entered * M'Kay afterwards told me that he thrice had his finger on the trigger of his gun, to be beforehand with the fellow who was taking aim at me behind. n f 184 RETURN FROM BOAT EXTREME I i\ [ [', » ii .1 1.1 the western mouth of the river, aiitl there en- camped. AVith the telescope we discovered that the village on Tent Island was abandoned ; from which we inferred that a narration about guns and cutting of throats, with which some of the Esquimaux had entertained us as we came along to-day, referred to an actual or apprehended at- tack of the Loucheux to avenge their slaugh- tered friends, and not to a scheme of the Moun- tain Indians to waylay us, as we at the time imagined. I here had the satisfaction of obtain- ing a set of lunar distances, which gave for the longitude 136° 3G' 45'' W. ; the latitude, by the moon's meridian altitude, being 08° 49' 23" N. The longitudes assigned to the various points in our discoveries have been corrected and reduced back from hence by the watch ; and the results are highly satisfactory, our expeditious return in thirteen days from Point Barrow yielding in- deed little scope for error. Mr. Dease and I watched while the men slept. The night was serene, and not a sound broke upon the solemn stillness, save the occasional notes of swans and geese calling to their mates, and the early crow- ing of the willow partridge, as the soft twilight melted into the blush of dawn. Our ascent of the Mackenzie was performed almost exclusively by towing, at the rate of from TO THE MACKENZIE UIVER. 185 thirty to forty miles a day. The crews were divided into two parties, who relieved each other every hour, and were thus spared all unnecessary fatigue. The weather continued calm and fine ; the sultry heats of the short summer were past ; the nights were cool, and no musquitoes dis- turbed our rest, or assailed us in our woodland rambles. The waters were considerably abated, and large portions of the high mud-banks, un- dermined by their action, were constantly tum- bling down, with a crash that, in the silence of evening, was heard for miles. Up to Point Separation, where we encamped on the 21st, moose-deer were numerous, for there were neither Esquimaux nor Indians to disturb their favourite haunts. Next day we fell in with several parties of Loucheux, whose un- obtrusive manners were pleasingly contrasted with the importunate and annoying behaviour of the Esquimaux. We were glad to learn that their tribe had had no hostile meeting with the latter during our absence. In the evening there arose a sudden storm of wind and rain. During the two following days we continued to meet the Loucheux, on their return from Fort Good Hope. The women, children, and baggage were descending the stream, on rafts formed of two large logs joined by a cross bar thus, A . 18(5 ASCENT OF ' I Oil tlic fore })jirt ivstetl ii raised ])lattoriii, wlioro tlio passengers sat; and the men escorted these primitive vessels in their bark canoes, which, when they choose, are conveniently secureid change from constant day ! On the 24th we encamjied a mile above old Fort Good Hope, on the oj)posite side of the river, under a high cliff of crumbling slaty rock, strongly im[)rcgnated with iron, and containing a great deal of sulphur. There was some thunder with lightning and rain during the night. The navigation became more obstructed by shoals and sandbanks as we ascended. One of the boats struck, and half filled with water, which caused the loss of part of a day to dry the soaked cargo and repair the damage. We saw a good many Hare Indians, who supplied us with fresh fish ; and a couple of Loucheux, on their way to Fort A«~- THE MACKENZIE RIVER. 187 (jood Hope, kept company with us tor two days, at tljo end of which thoy fell behind, being un- able to bear the fatigue of our long hours — from 4 in the morning to 8 or 9 at night. On the evening of the 2Gth there was a bril- liant display of the aurora, which our Loucheux companions called " saung." Ursa major they denominated " euty.T," and told us that its Esqui- maux appellation is " bellic." They mimicked the manners and address of that race to the life. Upon the beach was found the body of a female child about five years old, who, we afterwards learned, had been abandoned by the outer Hare Indians. The poor child had lost both parents, and, having no other relatives to take care of it, was cruelly left to its fate. Our chancing to pass beyond the limit of the traders' travels disclosed a circumstance which these people thought would have remained secret ; for they have been so severely taken to task by the Company's ofl^cers for similar acts of bai'barity, that they are now comparatively rare, and in general carefully con- cealed. The practice of mothers casting away their own female children, which is conmion at this day in China, Madagascar, Hindostan, and other countries more blessed by nature than Mackenzie River, was frequent here, as it was in I 1 if ll \ i I 188 ASCENT OF all parts of America before the settlement of the wliites, and is still a!non«^ a tribe far to tlie westward of Fort Norman, who only descenrevailing and stubborn vice of antiqiuty. It was sometimes proscribed, often ])ermitted, almost always i)racti8ed with impunity by the nations who never entertained the Ro- man ideas of i)aternal power ; and the dramatic poets, who appeal to the human heart, repre- sent with indifference a popular custom which was palliated by the motives of oeconomy and compassion." And immediately afterwards : " The * In a conversation with the Dog-ribs, we afterwards learned that these Mountain Indians are cannibals, and, im- mediately upon any scarcity arising, cast lots for victims. Their fierce manners have been circumstantially described by an old man, who, while yet a stripling, fled from the tribe, and joined himself to the Dog-ribs, in consequence of his find- ing his mother, on his return from a successful day's hunting, employed in roasting the body of her own child, his youngest brother. THE MACKENZIK RIVER. 180 lessons of jurispriulcnco and Christianity had been insufficient to eradicate this inhuman prac- tice, till their gentle influence was fortified by the terrors of capital punishment." * The candid inquirer will also do well to reflect what would proba])ly have been the fate of many of the youthful inmates of the European Foundling Hospitals, had such institutions been unknown. And when he considers, moreover, that these last are generally the offspring of (jnilU the pride of national superiority ought to die within him. Though the Company's posts in the Mackenzie River can barely subsist, the officers do all in their power to maintain poor objects and for- saken children. Were they to give unlimited indulgence to the natives, half the population would be left on their hands, general starvation must ensue, and the surviving whites would have to abandon the country. The following are Sir John Franklin's remarks on this painful subject : " Infanticide is mentioned by Ilearne as a com- mon crime amongst the Northern Indians, but this was the first instance that came under our notice*, and I understand it is now very rare amongst the Chipewyan tribes ; an improvement * '« Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire," vol. viii. page 56. IJM) ASriiNT OF ill tlii'ir nu>ml clianictcr which iimy ho fiiirly at- tril)uto(l to th(5 iiilhuMitM' of the traders rcsiiU'iit anionn;' thom."" * At i) ill the in()fiiin<( of tho 28th m'o reach- ed Fort («o()(l noj)e, wiiere we found Mr. IJell and all the inmates well, hut hiliouriiin; undi'r a scarcity of provisions occasioned hv tlic failure of their summer fishery. We had our wet pemi- can ba<]fs immediately rip])ed up and laid out to dry, for even the dogs reject this invaluable ali- ment when it lias become mouldy. On the 29tli there fell some light showers, but the weather continued mild, the temperature being steady at about 00°. Several Loucheux brought in furs to trade, and were very anxious to obtain, in exchange, the shells called " eye.a- quaws," a sort of cowries, which in the Columbia and New Caledonia form the native currency. This foolish fancy originated in their having seen some of these shells with one of the half-breed women ; and the use to which they intended to apply them was to thrust them through the se])tum of the nose — an ornament of a very grotesque «le- scription. These people prefer such trivial ar- ticles to the cloth and blankets with which the stores are furnished. Their real wants being limited to arms, ammunition, kettles, ironwork, * Second Expedition, page G4. Till-; MA( Ki',N/ii; uivi;u. l!)l n\u\ nitlrry, tliclr furs nrc cliosiply |»ur<'lms(Ml. Tlio spoils »»t* till' iiKMtsc and rcindciM* riiniisli tlicin with meat, clotliin^if, and tents.* This day was allowed our nii'ii for rest, and in the (jvimi- In^ i\\vy celebrated their return from the s(?a hy a (hinco. Jfavin^' coniph^ted our arranarty hein«^ now increased by Mr. Dease's wife, niece, and ^rand-dau<;fhter. The weather was occasion- ally cloudy, with some smart siiowers of rain, while the loftier mountains aj>pearcd newly co- vercMl with snow. On the evening of the 3rd September we crossed the confluence of the transparent waters of Bear Lake Jliver, and encampiMl on its southern side. Here we deposited our cargoes, and placed them under the charge of two men, with the intention of ]>roceeding unencumber- ed to Fort Norman, there to meet our outfit and despatches. A meridian altitude of a Aquihv placed us in lat. (;4'' 54' 48" N. 4th. — A cold frosty night was succeeded by a lovely day. We took an early breakfast at the burning banks, and lighted our fire with coals of * They arc more stationary in winter than other tribes ; and their dwellings arc ])artly nnder ground, like those of the Samoides of Northern Siberia. 192 ASCENT OF f> ', r' i ^' nature's kindling. In the woods that crown this vast hot-bed we found a great profusion of very fine raspberries and gooseberries, which afforded us a rich treat. The beautiful river and mountain scenery of this part of the Mackenzie is already well-known, and at this period the many-tinted foliage of autumn highly embellished the prospect. In the afternoon a very large black bear made his appearance on the opposite side of the river. After reconnoitering us for a while, with a look of great stupidity, he took the water. Sinclair and I then ran to the end of the island, along which we were tracking, in order to shoot him as he landed ; but, on seeing us, he sheered out again, and the signal was given to M'Kay, who imme- diately pursued with his boat, and dispatched him in the stream. His flesh proved excellent. At 6 P.M. we reached Fort Norman, to the utter amazement of the person in charge, who imagined us still on the coast. The boats from Portage la Loche, carrying the goods and provisions for our second campaign, — if I may be allowed the term, — were not yet arrived, but made their appearance on the 8th, when we had the happi- ness to receive tidings from many dear and dis- tant friends. The season had now fairly broken up, and on the 9th it rained very heavily. Wo closed our despatches to the Company, and got I r THE MACKENZIE RIVER. 193 h I everything in readiness for our departure to winter-quarters. The 10th was ushered in by a severe snow- storm and hard frost. At 7 in the morning our express, carried by Taylor and young Wentzel in a small canoe, started for Fort Resolution, and at the same moment we set out for Groat Bear Lake. So strongly did it blow from the north- ward, that we. had to tow the boats down the current ; and it was late when we reached Bear Lake River. For the three following days we continued ascending its clear and rapid stream. Everything wore a wintry aspect ; a good deal of snow fell, large masses of old ice lay undissolved on the beach, and the still parts of the river were newly frozen over. On the 12tli we saw some Hare Indians below the rapids. The path there led along the almost perpendicular face of loose rocky cliifs, and often on the edge of the rapids, where a single false step would have been fatal. It was the most dangerous tracking I had yet seen ; but w^e all passed without accident. Indeed, throughout the fur countries, since the introduction of boats, deaths by drowning are of iare occurrence : during the old canoe system they were but too frequent; though I question whether they ever equalled the proportion of casualties among o 194 BOISTEROUS PASSAGE sailors, fisliermen, Canada raftsmen, and various other hazardous professions. On the 13th we encamped within eight miles of Great Bear Lake. When we came in view of that magnificent sheet of water the following morning, it was violently agitated by an easterly wind. It occupied us two hours to reach the ruins of Fort Franklin ; and, after a cold ducking from the waves, we found a snug harbour in the " little lake," where the officers of the former expedition made their experiments in acoustics. The bateaux, which had been despatched ahead from Fort Norman, were waiting for us here, and we encamped together. Several nets were set, with which we soon drew a good supply of trout, pike, white-fish, grayling, inconnu, and salmon- herring. In the evening I obtained a set of lunar distances ; the longitude resulting from which was 123° 13' 0" W., being sixteen seconds westward of the position previously assigned to Fort Franklin. This difference, equal to two hundred yards, might be about our actual distance from the site of the buildings ; and, though such perfect agreement on a single trial is, of course, accidental, it strengthened my confidence in the exactness of which the lunar method is sus- ceptible, when the distances are carefully taken, and rigorously computed. OF GREAT BEAR LAKE. 195 It continued to blow from the east till near noon on the 15tli, when, the wind moderating, we embarked, and it soon afterwards fell calm. The afternoon, though cold, was serenely beau- tiful. Almost at the moment of sunset the moon appeared, and, while rising, assumed suc- cessively the most singular shapes, shewing the great power of the terrestrial refraction. Next day we made good progress with the oars. The immediate borders of the lake are low ; and the face of the country is mossy and barren, or poorly wooded with spruce-fir. I sounded in thirty-four fathoms about half a league from the shore ; but there are in Great Bear Lake far greater depths than this — descending below the level of the ocean. When we encamped at dusk, a long rolling sw^ell threatened the approach of a gale. On the 17tli we started at 6 ; the weather dark and squally, with a short cross sea, and the wind close. At noon, when within two miles of the eastern side of " the Bay of the Deer-pass," we were alarmed by a cry of distress from Mr. Dease's boat, which had sprung a plank, and was rapidly filling. Providentially, one of the ba- teaux was within reach, with whoso aid we took out the people and the drenched cargo, and towed the injured boat to land, which we gained 2 M i 1^ 196 HOISTEROUS PASSAGE after a tough pull, for it blew dead off shore. The remainder of the day was employed in re- pairing the damage. The evening was very boisterous, and snow fell during the night. We pulled under the lee of the land on the 18th, to the Cape of the " Scented-grass Mountain," where the strength of the north wind obliged us to put back a mile or two, to seek shelter in a little bay. At noon the thermometer stood at the freezing point, and one or two reindeer were seen. During the four succeeding days we were detained at the same spot by severe winter weather, and the country was permanently co- vered with snow. Our canvass tents affording no protection from the rigour of the cold in so exposed a situation, we constructed a leather lodge, in which we Indianized comfortably enough. The nights were extremely dark ; and ice, an inch thick, formed in the kettles. Our hunters killed three fine reindeer, one of which — a supeib buck — ^must have weighed from two to three hundred pounds. From the top of the hills I had the good-fortune to catch a glimpse of the high land behind Cape M'Donell, bearing north-east, on the opposite side of the lake. All the small lakes in the hollows of the mountain were firmly frozen. Alarmed at the near ap- proach of winter, the Indians, who formed half rnnwMiiiwr "'"*'— * OF GREAT BEAR LAKE. 197 the crew of the two bateaux, wished to lea\e us; but we resolved to prevent their desertion, by seizing the first practicable moment to at- tempt the grand traverse to Cape JNI'Donell, in- stead of the safer but more circuitous route by Smith's Bay. 23rd. — The wind moderated, and changed from north to east; the temperature of the air was 26° ; the clouds were black and threatening ; and there was a heavy swell. We determined to make a push ; and, after an early breakfast, stood out for Cape M'Donell, guided by the compass. I led the way in the small boats ; and, to en- courage the people, Mr. Dease followed with the bateaux. The change of wind having raised a dangerous cross sea, we were rather roughly handled. We had to sail within four points of the wind ; the boats and rigging soon became one mass of ice; and five hours elapsed before we got sight of the opposite land, greatly to the relief of the men, who all imagined that I was steering a wrong course. The wind again freshened ; but the sea, though it ran still higher, became more regular, and in three hours more we safely reached Cape M'Donell. At sunset we found a few dwarf pines in a little bay, where we en- camped. The bateaux did not make their ap- pearance, having lost sight of us, and pulled in 198 ARRIVAL AT for the wrong side of the cape. Had it not been for Mr. Dease's presence, they would assuredly have gone up M'Tavish Bay to look for the establishment ; as it was, they had hard work to reach the shore. In the snow around our en- campment the tracks of Alpine hares were numerous. Being joined by our consorts in the forenoon of the 24th, we alternately sailed and rowed among the islands and bays that abound on the east side of this large arm of the lake. A great deal of young ice had formed along the shores ; the weather was snowy, squally, and excessively cold. A herd of reindeer, and many large flocks of partridges, now perfectly white, were seen in the course of the day. We passed, near the Nar- rakazzae Islands, huge lumps of rock, that rise out of the water to the height of a hundred feet. This I ascertained by climbing the highest of them the following spring, wh "^nce I had a commanding view of the whole group, and of the frozen lake around.* On the 25th the weather was rather milder. A solitary Canada goose, the very last straggler of the rear-guard, flew past to the southward. Several loons, and some flocks of small diving * In the Appenui^ of Franklin's Journal, these islands are stated to be seven hundred feet high. f\ <«S9Mi WINTER QUARTERS. 199 rl ducks, still lingered in the open water. As we passed through the strait where we afterwards established our principal fishery, a ravenous trout seized the steersman's oar, and was almost drawn out of the water before relinquishing its hold. We made for the mouth of Dease River, where we were met by an old Indian, who directed us to our future residence, about three miles to the westward. We reached it at 4 p. m., and had the satisfaction of finding our comrades safe and well. Our greetings were cordial indeed ; and, with feelings of sincere gratitude to an Al- mighty Protector, we bestowed upon our infant establishment the name of Fort Confidence. i(i W »■ I II » ..« 200 TRANSACTIONS AT CHAPTER IX. Transactions at Fort Confidence, winter 1837-8.— Death of Peter Taylor. — Winter Discoveries and Surveys. We were soon surrounded by a crowd of Dog- ribs and Hare Indians of both sexes, who hailed with delight our residence upon their lands. They manifested unbounded joy at our return from the terrors of the sea, which their timid imaginations had peopled with monsters and can- nibals ; and it is impossible to depict the eager curiosity with which they viewed the weapons, dresses, and ornaments of the Esquimaux. They told us as a marvel, that, in the barren grounds to the eastward, they had killed a young buck deer with the head of an Esquimaux arrow sticking in the yet soft horn. Our building party had only reached the site of our winter- quarters on the 17th of August, the very day we re-entered the Mackenzie ; and a small store, with the skeleton of a dwelling-house, was all that indicated our destined abode. Ritcli in- formed us that, as he ascended Bear Lake River, FORT CONFIDENCE. 201 K the ice, r ?ntly cleft by the stream, formed two solid walls, in some places forty feet high. They towed their boat with great danger in con- sequence of the strength of the current, pent up and contracted by these frozen cliffs, along the top of which lay their own slippery and in- secure path. The icy masses, in many places undermined and honeycombed by the action of the water, threatened equally the boat that passed underneath, and the men who walked above. In this manner they reached the head of " the rapid" on the 10th of July, a week from the period of our separation. There they encountered the ice from the lake, which had just begun to break up, and came driving down before the easterly winds. They Avere compelled to land their cargo, and haul up their boat with the utmost precipitation; and the Indian hunters lost one of their canoes. The ice continued descending with fearful rapidity, large fragments being often forced upwards by the pressure, and sometimes choking the passage, till the accu- mulated weight of water and ice triumphantly burst the barrier. From the rapids it cost the party a fortnight's labour to reach the head of the river, a distance of only thirty miles. During this interval, the fisherman, with all the dogs, had been sent by land to the lake, where he r-i w„.™ !>••> 202 TRANSACTIONS AT supported his canine charge on the produce of nets set under the ice ; and, from the " little lake" at Fort Franklin, the Indians latterly brought fish every day to the people at the boats. At length they reached that place on the 6th of August. The passage of the lake occu- pied ten days more. From the Scented-grass Mountain nothing but ice was visible, but after a delay of three days they made their way to the Acanyo Islands in Smith's Bay. There they discovered a narrow opening, leading through heavy ice for some distance; but, when it ter- minated, they had to force their way with great labour and risk for a whole day and night be- fore they reached the northern shore. At the mouth of Haldane River they found a number of Hare Indians suffering severely from influenza, which had carried off two old people. They followed the party the same evening; and Ritch was shocked to learn that they had abandoned an orphan boy, about six years old. He imme- diately sent back two of our Chipewyans for the child, whom they brought safely to the establish- ment, where the little fellow passed the winter. From the extraordinary severity of the season, a journey of two hundred and fifty miles occupied forty-five days, and the ice of Great Bear Lake proved no less formidable than that of the Arctic Ocean. FOlli* ( f>V' ilfCCE. •J03 Our first care was to s^ id hncl -Jje Mackenzie River people, who had n l' red us such essen- tial assistance. They started the morning after our arrival, and, being favoured by a steady east wind, crossed Great JJear Lake in three days, and escaped the risk of being set fast. The same day we sent to examine Dease River, in reference to the transport of the boats ; but that stream was ah'eady frozen. The Indians even pretended to assure us that tlie sea, at the mouth of the Coppermine River, is open one moon before the ice breaks up in the northern parts of Great Bear Lake. The singular shape of this inland sea, branching out from a common centre into a number of extensive arms, which act as so many points of support to the body of the ice, conduces in no small degree to its tardy disruption. The situation judiciously chosen for the establishment was a wooded point, on the northern side of a deep and narrow strait, formed by a large island. It commands a fine view of the lake to the east and west, and the rocks form a natural landing-place for the boats at the very door. Nets set in the strait furnished Ritch and his three men with subsistence till our arrival. The fishery Mas likewise of the greatest benefit to the natives, many of whom we found still suffering from the influenza. A l^^ 204 TRANSACTIONS AT few simple modicines wore administorecl, and sonic assistance in food and clothing rendered to the suirerers, all of whom gradually recovered. In consequence of this unfortunate nuilady, no provisions had been collected, and our Chii)ewyan hunters were at this moment lying ill on the bar- ren grounds, twenty miles to the eastward. T paid them a visit on the t30th of September, and re- mained with them several days, in order to af- ford them every possible aid. Those who were in the worst state were brought to the house, and through care and nourishing diet slowly re- gained their strength. The disease afterwards attacked, successively, the women and children, all of whom recovered ; and last of all the old man, the father and grandfather of the party, who, from his age and infirmities, sank under it. His body was decently interred by us on the island opposite the establishment, and this mark of respect to the remains of their common parent contributed, more than all previous be- nefits, to fix the affections of our Chipewyans. We enjoy, indeed, the proud reflection that our expedition, so far from inflicting either famine or disease upon the natives, has, by tlie blessing of Heaven, been the immediate means of pre- venting or alleviating those calamities. To commence a winter within the Arctic ^> FORT CONFIDENCE. 20;"> M r> C'ircle with a considemljle party ilestituto of proviHioiiH, and the Indians upon whom wo mainly dcpondctl for subsistence requiring <)ur aid and support, was an alarming condition, wliich de- manded the utmost exertion of our personal re- sources. More nets were set in the strait ; and, while some of the peojile were employed in erecting the necessary buildings, others wore engaged in converting all the twine last received into nets. The sudden change of food, from pemican and flour to white-fish, affected several of the men with dysentery. The fish, indifferent as we found them, soon diminished in number before the increasing cold. On the oth of October, just fifty days later than Ritch's deliverance from the ice of a former winter, the strait froze over, but broke up again the following day, and finally set fast on the 10th, when the thermometer fir*:;, fell below zero. I took advantage of the interval to pro- ceed with a boat round the island to another and still deeper strait near its southern extre- mity. There was a camp of natives then in the neighbourhood ; and here we established our principal fishery, which, after a temporary failure, and removal towards the Narrakazza? Islands, continued during the greater part of the winter to support from two to four hands, but finally 20G TRANSACTIONS AT (/ i i ceased in March. Mr. Dease placed another fishing-station on a lake about twenty miles to the northward ; but it failed early in November, and was then removed to the sources of Haldane River, four days' journey Avestw^ird, with no better success. We were therefore compelled to place our reliance upon the capricious movements of the reindeer ; and, in order to eke rut our scanty and precarious subsistence, I spent a great part of the months of October and November in hunting excursions with those Indians who had recovered from their illness. The deer fortu- nately began to draw in from the north-east to the country between Great Bear Lake and the Coppermine ; and, as soon as any animals were shot, I despatched a share of the prey by our people and dogs to the establishment. At the same time I highly relished the animation of the chase, and the absolute independence of an In- dian life. Our tents were usually pitched in the last of the stunted straggling woods, whence we issued out at daybreak among the bare snowy hills of the " barren lands/' where the deer could be distinguished a great way ofV by the contrast of their dun colour with the pure white of the boundless waste. The hunters then disperse, and advance in such a manner as to intercept the deer in their confused rotreat to windward, the inni i firmd i ^ i iiiMiwiiM i ir-r i-i FORT CONFIDENCE. 207 direction they almost invariably follow. On one occasion I witnessed an extraordinary instance of affection in these timid creatures. Ha vino- brouo-ht down a fine doe at some distance, I was running forward to dispatch her with my knife, when a handsome young buck bounded up, and raised his fallen favourite with his ant- lers. She went a few paces, and fell ; again he raised her, and continued wheeling around her, till a second ball— for hunger is ruthless— laid him dead at her side. Until the month of Decem- ber we were living literally from hand to mouth, though all, except the men absolutely required to keep the houses in firewood, were distributed at the fisheries and in the various native camps. The excessive cold at lengtli drove the deer towards the shelter of the woods, where the hunters were more successful. The climate of the elevated unsheltered region to the eastivard of Fort Confidence is far more severe than that of the borders of the lake. The winds, too, are more violent; and a bright starlight night is often succeeded by a tempest of snoAv-drift. From the top of a hill in this quarter I disco- vered an unknown arm of the lake, which I had afterwards melancholy cause to examine. In a southerly direction the interior of the coun- try is very hilly, but, except on the higher ele- I -I 208 TRANSACTIONS AT ,.K vations, tolerably wooded ; and every three or four miles occurs a small lake, contained in the hollows between the hills. In these low shel- tered spots, where we generally made our en- campments, the largest trees grow, and I no- ticed two or three that attained a diameter of eighteen inches, which is large timber for such a barren, rocky countiy. The whole region is apparently of primitive formation ; the few rocks, left exposed by the snow, consisting of red and grey granite. In this direction I travelled to within view of M'Tavish Bay with the party of an Indian named Edahadelly, who, to decoy the deer, carried a i>air of antlers before him, with which, and a bundle of willow twigs, he used to imitate the motions of the living animal ; his own dress, made of its hairy hide, completing the deception. But to return to the affairs of the establish- ment. The houses were constructed on a very small scale, to suit our means and the severity of the climate. They consisted of a log build- ing, forty feet long, and sixteen broad, contain- ing a chamber at either end for Mr. Dease and myself, separated by a hall, sixteen feet square, which answered the threefold purpose of our eating-room, kitchen, and an apartment of all work for the Indians. There was, indeed, / FORT CONFIDENCE. 209 the frame of a kitchen erected behind, but we were unable to complete it till the following year, when an observatory was also built. Our men:s house was thirty feet long and eighteen broad, and, with the store, formed three sides of a little quadrangle fronting the south. The whole was habitable in a month after our ar- rival ; but, from the smallness of the timber, and the difficulty of procuring enough of the frozen earth to cover the light roofs, our dwell- ing was miserably cold, the wind and snow having in many places free ingress. The men's quarters were rather more comfortable. On the evening of the 6th of December a few families of Dog-ribs arrived, in the utmost con- sternation, from the bay discovered by me to the eastward. They had seen strange tracks of round snow-shoes and the smoke of distant fires, and, abandoning everything, had fled for their lives— burrowing at night under the snow ; supposing that either the Esquimaux or Copper Indians had invaded their lands. The first idea that^ occurred to us was, that it might be some of Captain Back's party from Repulse Bay, who had been overtaken by winter on the coast, and w^ere now wandering in quest of food and shelter. This opinion was communicated to the Indians, and three of the young men reluctantly P n 210 TRANSACTIONS AT ' ! I I Ml consented to accompany mo, on condition that their families should remain behind tiU the dan- ger was over. Three of our own people, with dog-sledges, attended me, to bring relief to the supposed sufferers, and we started the following day. On the 9th we reached the bay, and made our tire in a conspicuous situation, where it would have been visible during the night from a great distance. In sucli an open stormy coun- try tracks are soon obliterated ; but, when we proceeded next day to make the circuit of the northern part of the bay, we found on a low point the remains of an old fire, and the en- campment of a single person. We likewise dis- covered a cache of deer's meat, with several strips of birch bark for kindling fire, and other vestiges, which immediately proved that the stranger must be a half-breed or Fort hunter, and that, though he might have lost his way, he was in no want of provisions. I concluded it to be the expected bearer of our express from Port Simpson — a Cree Indian in the Com- pany's service, called Le Sourd ; which would account for the appearances that had terri- fied the timid natives. The latter, however remained unconvinced, and, with the exaggera- tion of an alarmed fancy, declared that they I'! FORT CONFIDENCE. 211 had seen a lino of fires stretching along the mountains towards the Coppermine River— here only thirty miles distant. The whole day was occupied in searching for further marks of the stranger, to no purpose; from which I inferred that he had retraced his steps southward. But, in case he should return to the same place, we erected marks to guide him to the Indian lodges, not far removed from the borders of the lake. This new branch of M'Tavish Bay is enclosed by a range of barren rocky hills of consider- able height— the favourite haunts of the shaggy musk-ox. It becomes continually narrower till near its northern termination, where it contracts to the width of half a mile, and again expands into a circular basin three miles in dif.iiieter, which is the nearest approach of Great Bear Lake to the Coppermine River, and is undoubt- edly the part indicated by The Hook to Sir John Franklin on that officer's first expedition. The extensive peninsula comprehended between Dease and M'Tavish bays, and terminating in Cape M'Donell, is the hunting-ground from whence we derived the greater portion of our subsistence during a winter of nine months. On the 29th of December, Le Sourd — the very man who had caused the natives such an alarm — arrived at Fort Confidence, in company with I' 2 r^ J ! 212 DEATH OF illl < / li some Indians, carrying our long looked-for packet. His comrade, Peter Taylor, had died on the way in M'Tavish Bay of an old pulmonary ccmplaint, aggravated, no doubt, by the fatigue of the journey; and he himself, having never heard of the latter arm of the lake, had wan- dered about searching for the establishment, and hunting reindeer, till he fortunately fell in with a camp of our Indians as he was return- ing towards Fort Norman. He had started from the latter place with his ill-fated compa- nion, who was a relative of his own, in a small canoe, and reached the rapids of Bear Lake River, where they were set fajst in October. They then struck over land to the lake, and had fine travelling on the smooth ice, along its southern and eastern shores, the centre of the lake being still open. By the time they reached M'Vicar Bay, Taylor complained of weakness ; upon which his friend, with considerate kind- ness, carried his provisions and spare clothing, and rendered him every possible assistance. At last, when he became unable to walk farther, Le Sourd made a comfortable encampment, and nourished the dying man with venison broth; and, when he expired, carefully laid his body in a grave dug by thawing the earth with fire. He even placed, with Indian superstition, a valuable gun. 1 1 PETER TAYLOR. 213 %^. that tlic grateful sufferer had given him, beside the remains of its deceased owner. Such gene- rous and faithful conduct, woukl do honour to human nature in its noblest state, and did not go unrewarded by us. While we lamented the loss of an active and trusty servant, it was con- soling to know that his death was not occasion- ed by privation or unaccustomed fatigue, but by the progress of an incurable disease, which our care, had he reached the establishment, might have alleviated, but could not have arrested. The packet contained letters from Governor Simpson, and from various private friends. The following is an extract of the Governor's official despatch, dated Norway House, 30th June, 1837. " All we can now say in regard to the expedi- tion is, that both the Government and the Com- pany feel the most lively interest in its success- In regard to supplies, you have a carte blanche ; our depots are open to your demands, and you are authorised to call on the districts of Atha- basca and IMackenzie's River for any facility or assistance in men, goods, provisions, Indians, craft, &c. &c., you may require. It rests with you to apply for and employ those means as you may find necessary ; and we have no farther in- structions to give, than to entreat you will use your best endeavours to accomplish the great •'■«■'* 214 TRANSACTIONS AT ■i object in view, by any means, or in any way, you may determine upon. Tlie season has hither- to been unusually cold. Even here we are now rarely without fires in the sitting-rooms, and to your mission I fear it is very unfavourable. When you started from hence, it was expected that the objects of the expedition could be com- pleted in two years; but, should the unfavour- able state of the season prevent your accomplish- ing the western survey this summer, you had better make another attempt next year, and de- fer the eastern survey until the following, i. e. take three summers instead of two. In short, we are more anxious to accomplish this impor- tant and interesting object than I am well able to describe, and are willing to incur any expense or inconvenience to the service to that end." A previous letter from London informed us of Sir George Back's expedition to Wager Inlet, or Repulse Bay, in the Terror bomb, with the view of prosecuting the survey of the coast west- ward in boats; but that his operations were in nowise to alter our plans. Indeed, it appeared not unlikely that we might meet somewhere about the mouth of Great Fish River, an event which would materially contribute to the safety of both parties. It was highly satisfactory to icilect that we hud already explored the un- %r J / 1** FORT CONFIDENCE. 215 Vi known western coast, contrary to tlio expectation of our most sanguine friends, since even the ca- noes from Canada had been stopped twenty days by ice. Had we failed in our first attempt, and come to winter at Fort Confidence, the whole frozen extent of Great Bear Lake (which sel- dom breaks up before the 1st of August) would have interposed between us and the navigable waters of the Mackenzie. Fishing Island, opposite to Fort Confidence, is for the most part tolerably wooded. The land swells into a diminutive hill, having an elevation of two decrees, due south. Over this little hill the sun, as I had previously calculated, did not rise for forty-three days, from 30th November to 12th January. The very children clapped their hands for joy when the bright orb first flashed above the trees ; and thougli we did not, like the an- cient Scandinavians of the Polar Circle, hold a festival for his resurrection, our feelings were perhaps no less joyful. To cheer us during this long dark interval, the loveliest of planets, Venus, appeared above our horizon in December, and continued to shine upon our solitary dwell- ing with daily increasing altitude and lustre. I afterwards repeatedly discovered both her and Jupiter, with the naked eye, in ])resence of the sun. The intense cold was of extraordinary 21G TRANSACTIONS AT duration. So early as the lltli of Noveinhor, tlio thcrmonieter fell to 32° below zero. The ave- rage temperature of the latter half of December was — 33^°, and that of all January — 30°. The most intense cold was frequently accom- panied by strong vvlrds from the east and north- east, and both men and dogs were severely frost- bitten while traversing the barren grounds for food. Few of the animal creation remained around us during this dreary period. An occasional track of a wolf, wolverene, or marten was met with in woody spots ; a single alpine hare was snared ; a very few brace of white ptarmigan were shot ; and in the barren grounds to the eastward I procured a curious hawk-owl. On the south- east side of M'Tavish Bay the Indians found the track of a stray moose, which they regarded as an extraordinary occurrence, for that animal loves the shelter of thick woods. The only re- gular visitants at the house were the raven and the whiskey-john (garrulus Canadensis). A con- siderable colony of mice hibernated in our store, where they committed some depredations ; and a marmot was found frozen to death near one of the fisheries. The white-fish, which were of a tolerable size in the fall, were succeeded in scanty numl^ers by a smaller and lighter-co- loured species during the winter, when the fish rORT CONl'IDKNCE. 21 retire to the dcptlis of tlic lake. Tn tho early part of winter, and afterwards in the si)rinnf, we took a very few trout of various sizes uj) to fifty pounds' * weight, with lines set under ice latterly seven feet thick. Back's grayling, methy, small sucking-carp, and a casual pike, completed the list of our finny captures ; and a single fine in- coinm was caught in a net, June 1839. Through- out the winter there is a current running (mt- wards, in the straits on either side of Fishing Island. This current is reversed by strong west- erly winds, (which usually send a few fish into tho nets,) though in what manner the waters of the lake are affected under such a covering of ice, it is difficult to conceive. Several currents were also spoken of by the Indians as existing in the narrow arms of M'Tavish Bay. Thep'^ nuist be independent of the tributary streams, which, like Dease River, — the i)rincipal feeder, — arc all frozen to the bottom .f On Christmas and New- Year's days we enter- tained our assembled people with a dance, fol- * One of the largest, taken at Fort Confidence 2d May, wcighe ' forty-seven pounds, length four and a half feet, mid- girth twenty-seven inches (Salmo namaycush). t I had the curiosity, when the thermometer stood at — 49", to cast a pistol-bullet of quicksilver, which at ten paces passed through an inch plank, but tlatteued and broke against tho wall three or four paces beyond it. '^ 218 TUANSACTIONS AT H f M \ lowed by a supper consisting? of tlie best fare we could command. By tliis time wo had, through our indefati«]^able exertions, accumulated two or three weeks' provisions in advance, and no scarcity was experienced during the remainder of the season. The daily ration served out to each man was increased from eight to ten, and to some individuals twelve pounds of venison; or, when they could be got, four or five white-fish weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds. This quantity of solid food, immoderate as it may ap- pear, does not exceed the average standard of the country ; * and ought certainly to appease even the inordinate appetite of a French Canadian. f The Company's servants are not less well clothed and paid than they are fed ; they are treated by * Mr. Dease assured me that under an ancient manager of Athabasca, who passed for a severe economist, and whose assistant he was at the time, the men succeeded in obtaining the exorbitant daily allowance of fourteen pounds, or one stone, of moose or buffalo meat I f Yet was there one of them who complained he had not enough, and did not scruple to help himself to an additional supply whenever the opportunity offered : it would have taken twenty pounds of animal food daily to satisfy him. This man, Framond, being in other respects a very indifferent servant, was discharged the following year; and his place supplied from Mackenzie lliver by a young Maskcgon, or Swampy Crcc Indian, in the service, educated at Red River, and named James Hope, who was engaged by us at the same annual wages as our other middlemen, viz. £iO sterling. 1 IDllT CONFIDENCE. 211) tlioir immodiato masters with a familiar kiiul- iiess surpassing what 1 have ever seen elsewhere, oven in the United States ; and their whole con- dition allbrds the strongest possible contrast to the wretched situation of the Uussiau " Pro- miischleniks," as described hy LangsdorlF. The nature of the climate and long journeys, it is true, demand hard labour at times ; but it is la- bour voluntarily endured, and even jdiysically less severe than the compulsory tracking on the rivers of Russia and China : while a great part of the year is i)assed in comparative idleness ; and, if the voyageur finds the fatigues and hardshii)S too great, it rests witli himself to be released from them at the close of his three years' contract. I may here introduce a curious fact, that this class of men are found to remain longest in the poorer and colder districts ; and that no sooner have they got into the best situations, than they become restless and desirous of change ! It is, perhaps, a kindred feeling that urges the Ame- rican backwoodsman, when he has cleared a farm and made himself comfortable, to sell his im- provements, shoulder his axe, and march forward into the wilderness in search of possessions yet more remote. Now that we were fairly esta- blished, divine service was duly performed on Sundays, at which both Protestants and Catholics *.am:^'^w^m:^-m.- 220 TRANSACTIONS AT '] 1 •M I attended. Our Canadians, like their countrymen in general, were deplorably ignorant; the High- landers and Orkneymen, on the contrary, could both read and write, and tlie contents of the little library we had provided were in great request among them through the long winter nights. During the summer voyage we had laboured suc- cessfully to repress the practice of swearing, so common among voyageurs of every denomination. The natives now began to come in more fre- quently, occasionally aiding our people in the laborious transport of the meat. To some we lent guns ; all were plentifully supplied with am- munition ; and many of the more industrious were furnished with blankets, shirts, and cloth dresses, instead of their own filthy deer-skins. Nothing was easier than for an active hunter to provide himself and family with these comforts; as he received, exclusive of all gratuities, a good price for his meat, which was usually delivered to us several days' journey from tlie establishment. These Indians always experience a kind recep- tion from us. They sit round the lire while we are partaking of our morning and evening meals — in other words, breakfast and supper ; for dinner, that " word of power" in other climes, was unknown at Fort Confidence.* When we * At least as far as Mr. Doase and myself were concerned; for the men and families messed as often as they thought proper^ -'■i FORT CONFIDENCE. 221 have eaten, we present them with the remahis of our repast, which is, indeed, the common cus- tom of the north. After meals we occupy the same fireside, chatting or smoking together ; at night they sleep in our hall, and on winter journeys and hunting excursions side by side with us in the same encampment. Every circumstance indicates a kindly familiar intercourse ; the natural result of which is, that the Indians are attached to the Company's officers, whom in common discourse they style their " fathers" and their " brothers." In our particular case I must frankly confess my surprise at the facility with which we acquired their confidence, for only in 1835 a cruel and unparalleled injury had been inflicted upon them by some half-breeds who disgraced the service. Three of these wretches (two of them Red River Catholics, the third a countryman of the vic- tims,) sought a quarrel with a party of unfortu- nate Hare Indians about one of their women, whom they carried off; and attacking them un- awares, after partaking of their hospitality, bru- tally massacred eleven persons of both sexes. The criminals were taken out for trial to Canada, where the ringleader, Cadien, escaped with the mild sentence of banishment, and his accomplices were acquitted ! It is to be hoped that the Company and were, as usual, much more difficult to please than their masters. If- 222 TRANSACTIONS AT I will persevere in their resolution to send no more of this caste to Mackenzie River. It has, I understand, been sagely proposed by certain theorists to ameliorate the condition of the northern tribes by transforming a race of hunters into a pastoral people, through the do- mestication of reindeer. But the character of the aborigines would alone present an insupera- ble obstacle to the experiment. They entertain a rooted superstition that the taming any of the wild reindeer of their country would banish the whole race for ever from their lands. It was for this reason that, in 1817, Mr. Dea;-^ ' ukl not succeed in obtaining a couple of fawn > m the Copper Indians at Great Slave Lake; nor were our applications at Fort Confidence more effectual. I was not sorry for it, as the poor animals could not long have been preserved from the fangs of the dogs — those indispensable assist- ants to white or red men.* Even were this pre- judice overcome, the Indians would immediately and naturally inquire, " Why should we be bound like slaves to follow the motions of a band of tame animals, when our woods and barren • In May 1839 our dogs drove off a pair of wolves that passed the house in hot pursuit of a large deer; took up the chase themselves ; ran down, strangled, and devoured the prey on the ice a few miles to the westward. «-• •'■•1--1 .'jyl FORT CONFIDENCE. 223 r- grounds afford ns moose, rod-deer, buffalo, carri- 1)00, and musk cattle; wl -^n our lakes and rivers supply us with fish, for the mere trouble of kill- ing them?" On the 1st of February, two servants and two Indians were despatched to Fort Simpson with our spring packet, containing letters, charts, &c. They were directed to take the shortest route, by M'Tavish and M*Vicar bays, and from thence to follow a chain of minor lakes, leading through the woody country to the southward, known to the Indians. From Fort Simpson they were in- structed to return as soon possible, with dogs and sledges, carrying a small supply of moose- skins, and the irons for sledge-runners, required to transport our boats over snow and ice to the Coppermine River. At the same time we wrote to Governor Simpson, stating the probability of our having to employ two summers in exploring the coast eastward of Bathurst's Inlet. To pro- vide for a prolonged residence within the Polar Circle, we addressed the gentlemen in charge of Athabasca and Mackenzie River, requesting an additional supply of pemican, dressed leather, dogs, birchwood for sledges, ammunition, and to- bacco,— articles essential to our subsistence; as for everything else, we resolved to live like the natives. The cold continued excessive, with fre- 224 TRANSACTIONS AT 1 1 \ \ I quent easterly gales, even when the thermometer stood below — 50" ; a circumstance that fearfully distinguishes our winter-quarters from those of former expeditions. West and even north-west winds commonly brought on snow and less severe weather. This is at variance with what obtains over a considerable part of North Ame- rica, but may be accounted for by the situation of the place, in the margin of the woods close to the " barren lands." The appellation of Barrens, or Barren Lands, is given to the whole north- east angle of the continent from the 60th pa- rallel of latitude, because that extensive region is destitute of wood. The winds that sweep over it are therefore more intensely cold than those which traverse the well-wooded country through which Mackenzie River flows. While engaged at various times during this winter in hunting excursions with Indians to the eastward, and in surveying the different routes to the Copper- mine River, I could not help remarking the in- crease in the severity of the cold, and the fre- quency of storms, when we got out into the hilly " barren lands."" The lakes and rivers are there much earlier frozen, and it will be found that they also break up at a later period than those under the same ]iarallel to the westward. The average depth of snow was about three foot, but ■i FORT CONFIDENCE. 225 t 'il 3 :^ •SI s Q t enormous drift-banks lay in the hollows of the mountains. Ritch was sent in quest of wood for new oars, and for planks to repair the sea-boats ; but, after a search resumed several days in different direc- tions, he found only a few pieces fit for the former purpose, none for the latter. I subse- quently fell in with some straight tall trees on the south branch of Dease River. The wood around Fort Confidence is stunted, knotty, and twisted into all manner of shapes— the deformed growth of frozen ages. From the eastern side of M'Tavish Bay, a distance of seventy miles, a quantity of dwarf birch was procured, for ad- ditional boat-timbers, snow-shoe frames, and axe handles. March was scarcely less severe than February, the mean temperature of the whole month being 20" below zero. On the 11th, at 5 a.m., occurred the greatest degree of cold registered during the winter. A spirit thermometer by Dollond (which shewed the /lighest temperature of any at the place, and was that always employed,) stood at 60° below zero; and another, of older date, brought from Fort Chipewyan, at —66°. This intense cold was accompanied by a fresh westerly breeze, which several of our people had to face that Q 226 TRANSACTIONS AT morning, returning with meat from M'Tavish Bay. Spite of their deer-skin robes and capots, their faces bore palpable marks of the weather ; and, when they reached the house, not a man was able to unlash his sledge till he had first thoroughly warmed his shivering frame. The winds were no less constant and piercing than during the preceding months, but blew more frequently from the westward. In the early part of the month our last fishery on the south side of the island entirely failed ; and, after supplying for a time with meat-rations the men who were stationed there, they were withdrawn, and appointed to other duties. Lines were re-set in the strait, but their produce did not even repay the baits employed, and they were again taken up. Fortunately our Cliipewyan hunters and the native Indians vied with each other in amassing reindeer and musk-ox flesh; and our six sledges of dogs, with each a driver, were almost con- tinually employed, bringing to Fort Confidence the means of existence. Le Babillard, an Indian frequently mentioned in the narrative of Frank- lin's last expedition, now approached with his party from the southward, and opened a commu- nication with us. About the same time two young Indians arrived with news from Forts Norman and Good Hope. They were full of a FORT CONFIDENCE. 227 marvellous report, current among the natives, of an approaching change in the order of nature. Among other prodigies, a race of men had sprung up from the earth whose eyes and mouths were placed in their breasts. These monsters prac- tised an unbounded hospitality, having always on the fire a gigantic copper cauldron, con- tu' ung the carcases of five moosedeer! and the appropriate scene of this wild tale was the Horn Mountains, on the west side of Great Slave Lake. The whole story afterwards turned out to have originated in a dream. On the 25th the people despatched with our February express returned from Fort Simpson, having performed the journey in nineteen days. They brought us our letters from home, together with intelligence of the demise of his Majesty William the Fourth, and the accession of our gracious sovereign Queen Victoria ; which news had reached the Hudson's Bay ships before they sailed from the Hebrides, in July. We at the same time received a distressing account of the fatal ravages of the small-pox among the Assini- boines of the Saskatchewan. Thirty men of that tribe had crossed the plains to the banks of the Missouri in the summer of 1837, with the view of stealing horses. They found the unfortunate natives of the Missouri dying by hundreds of Q 2 228 TRANSACTIONS AT that terrible disease, which was introduced by an American steamboat, and, in the mad hope of assuaging the fever, casting themselves into the deadly stream. Under such circumstances they had no difficulty in making themselves masters of one hundred and sixty horses, and with this rich booty set out for their own camp. But the dis- temper had communicated itself to them, and ere long broke out on the way. Two-thirds of the robbers perished, and the survivors were obliged to abandon their ill-gotten spoil. The Company's people at Carlton had been all vaccinated ; yet the contagion was communicated from the Assini- boine camp, and two of the servants fell victims to its malignity. It is with sincere pleasure I add, that the humane precautions taken by Chief Factor Rowand, and the other gentlemen in the Saskatchewan, to vaccinate the Crees, saved the whole of that valuable tribe from the disastrous consequences of the malady, which happily did not penetrate farther north. We afterwards learned that it spread throughout the Plain tribes along the American lines to the Rocky Mountains ; that it broke out on tlie north-west coast, and committed dreadful havoc among the sanguinary tribes from Vancouver Island northward, and at the Russian settlements. Of the Mandans of the Missouri it was said that FORT CONFIDENCE. 229 only twelve renialned, and that a party of Sioux were on their way to extinguish this feeble rem- nant of a once powerful tribe. So much for the gcnerositij of savage warfare ! On the 27th I set out, with two men and four dogs, to explore the barren grounds stretching from Dease River to the Coppermine, and to determine the most practicable route for the transport of our boats, baggage, and provisions. For three days we ascended Dease River, in a north-easterly direction, carefully tracing its course, which is very crooked. The ice-marks visible upon the trees and banks indicated the height of the water when liberated in the spring, but at this period we found it everywhere frozen to the bottom. The woods grew thinner and more stunted as we advanced ; and on the third evening w'e encamped in a small cluster of dwarf spruces, barely sufficient, in number, to yield us firing, and brush for our beds. In the night a gale sprang up from the north-east, with a tre- mendous storm of snow-drift, which almost buried us alive, as huddled together with our dogs we lay exposed to the fury of the tempest. It con- tinued unmitigated throughout the following day, and we sought a miserable screen behind our sledges, placed on edge in the deep snow. To the Arctic traveller it appears almost incredible 230 WINTER UISCOVKRIES how people perish, under similar circumstances, in the climate of Britain! The position of this encampment is in lat. G7° 15' N., long. 117° 50' W. On the 31st the wind was still strong and penetrating; but, the snow having ceased, we were glad to continue our jouniey. As we were now about five miles to the northward of the point where Dr. Richardson and party, in August 182G, crossed a small stream, which I supposed our boats might descend in June to the Copper- mine River, I changed our course to east-south- east, with the hope of falling upon it in the even- ing. The difficulties of the route prevented this ; but, from the top of one of the barren, rugged hills among which we were travelling, I espied a valley to the northward, containing several lakes, and, what was of infinitely more consequence to us, a wood to encamp in. In this oasis we were detained another day by a heavy fall of snow. The night was clear and very cold; and next morning, 2nd April, we had to face a severe easterly wind. We proceeded through a sort of pass among the hills, where we witnessed a whirl- wind, which we all, at the first distant view, exclaimed to be the smoke of a large fire. As wc passed near it, our respiration was almost sus- pended by the rapid motion of the air and the >.*, AND SURVEYS. 231 exce88ivc cold. A high ami stcop doscent broiiglit us siuUlcnly ui)on the banks of the streamlet we sought, where a solitary cluster of trees doubtfully indicated its existence. Here we breakfasted, and I o])tained the lat. G7° 11' 17" N., long. 117° 5' W., variation 49° 30' E.* Start- ing again we travelled sixteen miles, partly along the scarcely distinguishable streamlet, partly on the neighbouring hills, and at 7 in the evening reached some woods, scarcely taller than a man, but the first we had seen since noon. Imme- diately above this spot the stream expanded into a lake, by the junction of a branch from the north- ward ; and was named Kendall River, in compli- ment to Lieut. Kendall of the former expedition. Parhelia were constant almost all day, and fre- quently appeared during this journey. The suc- ceeding day was fine ; and we traced the stream, now somewhat increased in size, but, like Dease River, frozen to the bottom, for fifteen miles, * A stranger would have been sorely puzzled to know whether he was about to descend or ascend the brook. The following was our method of ascertaining this important point : Through the snow, which almost choked up the valley, a few willow tops protruded here and there. To two or three of these were attached little balls of roots and grass, that had been carried down by the high water of the preceding spring. These adhering to the lower side of the twig, proved that our faces were turned down the stream. « ^ 232 WINTER DISCOVERIES when it opened upon the Coppermine through a narrow gorge of pcrpendicuhir rocks. The noble view of the river, with its frozen windings til rough that wild waste of snows and mountains, rei)aid our fatigue ; and we proudly drank of its melted ice, within fifty miles of the northern sea. T procured observations, which place the conflu- ence of the tributary stream in lat. 07° 7' 1" N., long. 110° 21' 15" W., variation 48° E. The temperature at Fort Confidence was — 20°; here it might be — 25° or — 30°. We returned to sleep at our encampment of the preceding night. Some white partridges were shot in the course of the day ; but the deer kept higher up on the hill- sides, where, the snow being carried oft' by the winds, they find least difficulty in getting at the moss — their favourite food. On the 4th we again breakfasted at the place where we had first fallen on the stream. Here our dogs luckily found the half-devoured carcase of a deer, which had been driven over the cliffs by wolves, four of which ravenous animals were scared from their feast by our approach. This was a most acceptable windfall, as our provisions were at a very low ebb. Conjecturing that the brook, by a circuit to the southward, might issue from the lakes where we were stopped on the 1st, (which it approaches, but which f' •^v <\ AND SURVEYS. 233 f\ afterwards proved to be the source of a branch of Dcase River,) T proceeded to ascend it for six miles farther, in a south-westerly direction, and encamped in the last and only clump of j)ines visible from the summit of a hill. The following day was extremely cold, enhanced by a piercing head wind, which assailed us as we tra- versed a bleak, elevated region. T prosecuted ti'O a«;. FORT CONFIDExXCE. 241 M was brought on the 9th, by Indians, via Marton Lake. Not the least vakied part of its con- tents was a file of that excellent paper the New York Albion, with some numbers of the London Times, sent us by our worthy friend Chief Factor Christie. Those only who are cut off from the rest of the world can fully appre- ciate such marks of attention. On the 15th a solitary goose, the first har- binger of spring, flew over the house; followed, two days after, by some Canada, Ilutchin's, and snow geese. A few laughing geese, swans, and northern divers made their appearance some- what later; also ducks of the smaller species. But the whole number of fowl that passed was inconsiderable, more being shot at Athabasca in one day than we procured altogether. On the 18th a man and boy arrived from a camp of strange Hare Indians, whom they had quitted to the westward in a starving condition. We immediately sent them a quantity of pounded meat, which was the means of saving their lives; and on the 27th the remainder of the party, twenty-two in number, chiefly old men, women, and children, came to the establishment. Thev darted like vultures upon a kettle of meat which was prepared in the hall ; but I must do them the justice to say, that, despite their R i ~ 242 TRANSACTIONS AT :J hunger, they made a fair distribution of the food, which is more, I suspect, than Europeans similarly circumstanced would have done. An old man, a woman, and two children had died in the course of the winter; and one blind old man, brought to the house, was hauled on a sledge, or led with a string, and sometimes car- ried by his wife and daugnter. The party had separated from the rest of the tribe ; and the number of men capable of hunting being dis- proportionally small, caused the misery that we had the satisfaction to relieve. Our own stock of food was meanwhile fast wasting away; for Dog-ribs, Hare Indians, and Chipewyans had now all congregated around us, and, instead of bring- ing us assistance, many of them drew rations from our store. Besides such occasional assist- ance, we constantly had some old or helpless persona left upon our hands. No means were neglected to procure subsist- ence for ourselves and the natives. Nets were set in Dease River, but produced next to nothing ; ammunition was liberally distributed, and, to- wards the end of the month, a few straggling deer were killed. About the same period the rapids in the lower part of the river broke up; and our sea-boats, which had been thoroughly repaired and strengthened, were dragged over —iiii m FORT CONFIDENCE. 243 s the ice to its mouth, to be in readiness for the moment that the ascent of the stream shouhl become practicable. A messenger having ar- rived from a lake about a day's jouiuey to the northward, reporting an abundant fishery under the ice, we despatched the whole of the lately- starving Hare Indians thither. The Dog-ribs and our Chipewyan hunters at the same time prepared to separate and disperse themselves for the summer over the best hunting-grounds to the eastward. Their departure in the beginning of June was a twofold relief to us, as we had some preparations to make for our approaching voyage. I must not close this part of the narra- tive without bestowing a just encomium on the generally docile character of the natives of Great Bear Lake. They soon become attached to white men, and are fond of imitating their manners. In our little hall I have repeatedly seen the youngsters, who were most about us, get up from their chairs, and politely hand them to any of our people who happened to enter; some of them even learned to take off their caps in the house, and to wash instead of greasing their faces. Their indulgent treatment of their wo- men (who indeed possess the mastery) was no- ticed by Sir John Franklin ; I wish I could speak as favourably of their honesty and veracity. R 2 * 244 TRANSACTIONS AT FORT CONFIDENCE. The position of Fort Confidence, as determined by a variety of observations, is in lat. GG" 53' 36" N.; long. 118° 48' 45" W. The magnetic varia- tion, in October 1837, was 48' 30' E. ; the dip of the needle (in June 1839), 84" 48' N. i [1 245 CHAPTER X. Ascent of Dease River— Passage of the Dismal Lakes on the Ice.— Dangerous Descent of the Coppermine— Flight of the Esquimaux. Having, after repeated missions up Dease River, ascertained, on the 6th of June, that the first flush of water had passed off, and the ice ceased descending, we immediately put the party in motion. Leaving Ritch and two men at Fort Confidence, we set out with only four men per boat, two having (as already mentioned) been stationed at Kendall River in charge of the provisions for the coasting voyage. Our very limited personal baggage, provisions for the jour- ney to the Coppermine, the canvass canoes, and snow-shoes for the whole party in case of being surprised by winter on our return, were carried over the ice to the mouth of the river, where we encamped. In that sheltered spot the first signs of vegetation had appeared, and the cat- kins of the willow were fully an inch long. On 1 (i LMG ASfT,\r OF DKASE UIVKU. tlio hike, the it was «till from i'our to five feet thick. In the forenoon of the 7tli was commenced tlie ascent of Dease llivor; the weather clear, l)ut cold. Tlio navigation proved a succession of rapids ; and the banks, obstructed by willows and other trees, rendered the tracking very la- borious. Wo encamped at a place where the stream has forced its way through a precipitous chasm, leaving a detached rock in the midst, to which our Orkney-men gave the name of " The Old Alan of Hoy." Several largo hawks and a numerous colony of swallows occupied the cliffs. The latter birds we afterwards found in a simi- lar situation at the mouth of Kendall River. As they are never seen at Fort Confidence, it is probable that, in their passage northward, they avoid the frozen expanse of Great Bear Lake altogether, and make straight for their accus- tomed rocky haunts. 8th. — The fatigue of ascending the rapids, often waist-deep in the water, was aggravated by a hard frost and a piercing head wind. As we ad- vanced, however, we found a good deal of still water, where the oars could be used. Enormous drifts of snow clung to the banks. In one place a fallen fragment had grounded in mid-stream, forming a temporary islet, u|K)n which stood an ASCKNT OF DKASE UIVEH. 247 Tmlimi nmrk, directing us to tlie carcases of two doer placed in a tree. As we approached the spot, another huge muss of snow tumbled - u MUu IL25 1 1.4 2.5 2.2 2.0 1.8 iiiiim 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 873-4503 iV SJ N> L\ ^ s 260 DANGEROUS DESCENT headlands of Cape Kendall and Cape Hearne, the latter blue in the distance. The Bloody Fall it- self was free ; but immediately below it, and from thence to the coast, the river was choked with ice. We found no recent traces of Esquimaux at the fall ; but next day many tracks were seen in a plain to the west of the Coppermine, lying be- tween it and a fine deep stream flowing to the northward. This latter river here approaches within two leagues of the Coppermine, and seemed equally large ; a short distance higher up it bends off to the westward. Its banks are clothed with willows, and its course appeared tranquil. We had much pleasure in naming it Richardson River, after that resolute and scientific traveller. Several old camping-places, sledges, pieces of wrought wood, &c., were found on the adjacent hills. Various flowers were here in bloom ; and, in low damp situations, the verdure of grass and willows relieved the eye, in the midst of ice and barrenness. A female marmot, big with young, was caught, and would soon have become tame, could we have conveniently kejit her. The lively little creature seemed to feel quite at ease under a reversed tin dish, till released to join her mate, who, from an adjoining heap of stones, occasion- ally testified Ills iujjiatience at her captivity by a sharp slirill whistle. I- OF THE COPl'EUMINE. t>01 I f The bar of ice between us and the Bloody Fall having broken up, two men were despatched to the coast on the 27th to examine the state of the ice. On their return, in the evening, they re])orted the river to be still blocked up ; and that the sea-ice adhered firmly to the beach, without the least appearance of decay, or indi- cation of water in any direction. They brought us a fine salmon-trout, which they had rescued from a bevy of gulls, engaged in the act of drag- ging it alive out of the river. The waters were still too high for setting our nets, but on the final liberation of the river, two day,s afterwards, they subsided rapidly. A gunshot below our en- campment, the face of a hill, undermined by the stream, kept falling down in large heaps with a tremendous noise, and obliged us to remove the boats higher up, in shelter of the grounded ice. The remaining days of June were fine,>but cool. Our hunters killed several deer : these, with some geese, which we shot, kept our stock of pemican almost untouched. My observations placed our encampment in lat. 67° 42' 52" N., long, (by lunar distances) 115° 49' 30" W.; variation 54" 17' 30" E. July 1st.— After a halt of five days we de- scended to the fall. The portage occupied six or seven hours, the boats having to be carried ■ I J 1 ,»7 npon two Ksquiniaux, wlio wore t ravel liii,i»- from the eastward towards the IMoody Fall, whore the season for drying salmon now commcnees. He took off his cap and waved it to them, but (as Ik? acknowledged) running away at the same time ; and the strangers seemed as little disi)08ed for intercourse as himself. On the 13th, the suns lower limb almost touched the horizon at midnight. At this ])eriod the banks of the river were adorned with a profusion of flowers, which contributed to enrich Mr. Dease's herbal. The nets produced, during our detention, one hundred and forty fish, chiefly Arctic salmon, large salmon-trout, and tullibee; with a few methy, white-fish, red sucking-carji, and diminutive flounders. I obtained an excel- lent series of solar altitudes and lunar distances, which place the mouth of the Coppermine in lat. 68° 48' 27" N., long. 115" 31' 15" W. ; be- ing 37 seconds to the northward, 5' 34", or about two miles, to tht eastward of the position deter- mined by Sir .John Franklin; but he was en- camped on the west, and we on the east side of the river. The variation was 53° 47' 54" E. ; being an increase of 7° 22' 2' since 1821, or 26 minutes per annum. There was but one diunial tide, and the rise and fall of the water varied from five to seven inches. At this date I find, •208 DANGEROUS DESCKXT by Ritch'a journal, tliat tlu; ioo on Groat Bear Lake was still pcrfoctly solid, and continued unbroken till tho bep^inning of August; "which may be considered the average term of its dis- ruption,* being a full month later than Great Slave Lake, between which and Athabasca there is a like difference. On the evening of the IGth, having observed some signs of an opening in the ice to the east- ward, wo removed to an island lying outside the mouth of the river. Here I had a fine ob- servation at midnight of the sun's upper limb, elevated just four minutes above the visible hori- zon ; the height of the eye being eight feet, tho temperature 38°, and the barometer assumed at 30 inches. The resulting latitude, using Lynn's admirable tables, is 07" 52' 59"; the true posi- tion was 67° 49' 54". On this occasion, there- fore, the actual horizontal refraction exceeded the tabular by 3' 5" ; indeed, during the succeed- ing morning, there was much mirage, indicating a highly refractive state of the atmosphere.f The * The bay of P'ort Franklin, at the head of the grand out- let to the southward, is clear of ice much earlier, but furnishes no criterion of its state ou the main body and northern parts of this immense lake. \ The following year I frequently repeated these midnight observations, between the Coppermine and Cape Barrow, when OV TIIK COIM'KRMINK. 2GD slioroH of thcso islands, ami all tho tioiglibouriii"^ coast, were abundantly stored with small crooked drift wood, brought down by the Coj)permino river. the result, for the most part, fell ton miles to the sonth>caril of the noon latitude, which corresponds with Ur. M'Kay's scale of corrections for the spheroidal figure of the earth. 270 c;iiai»ti:h xi. •Second Si-a Vuy.'igf. — DiHiculties aii«l dclciilions nmun^Ht Ico. — Long circuit in IJatlnirst'.s Inlet. — Disc-ovcry of Copper on Hurry Islands. — Boats linally arrested near I'oint Turn- again. At 12 his. 30 mill. a.m. on tlic t7th of July \vu coiiiinenced our socond vc^ysigo on tlic llyprr- horeaii sea. The morning was cahn and fine ; and, after pnliin;,' two or three miles outwards, round a liehl of ice, wc found an open channel between lierens Isles and tlie main shore. That advantage wouhl, however, have soon l)een lost, had not a gentle 8. S.W. wind sprung up, and, while it detached the ice from the land, greatly accelerated our progress. At several points we had to lower sail and j)ush through the streams of ice, at considerable risk to the boats. To our Indian companions the sea was indeed a new element. Almost the first living objects they saw, two young seals, (which they called sea- beaver,) excited their wonder, and, when we landed to breakfast on an island, they anxiously % t SKCON!) SKA VOYACili. *27I wrttrlii'd un per ore. They were lying amongst the debris at the foot of a crumbling rock, which had evidently fallen fiom the trap hills abo e. The cliffs were evervwhere stained •with verdigris, indicating the presence of the metal, which undoubtedly abounds in these islands. Coloured quartz crystals and vesicles were fre- quent, and I preserved specimens of the lead- ing rocks, both here and all along the coast. Barry Islands contain several fine deep harbours, completely land-locked and sheltered from every .if^ I ON BARRY ISLANDS. 281 wiml. Should tliese seas ever be navigated by sliips, tliis would form a good half-way winter- ing station between Barrow's and Behring's Straits ; and the mines might be wrought from JVIay to August, before the ice would admit of prosecuting the voyage. The tides and currents in the inlet are exceedingly irregular, depend- ing on the winds and ice ; but on no occasion did I notice a change of more than one foot in the water level. Deer were numerous, in- cluding for the first time does with their fawns, now well grown. Sinclair shot two fat bucks ; and, on his return, was followed by a barren- ground bear with her two cubs, attracted by the smell of the meat he was carrying. On his throwing down his burden, they scampered off, before he could get his gun ready. The young ptarmigan were strong on the wing; and herds of seals lay basking on the ice near this island. Stone traps, old paddles, and other ves- tiges indicated the occasional abode of Esqui- maux, who use turf as well as wood for fuel. A small lake not far from our encampment w'as still frozen. 4th. — The ice continuing immoveable on the northern side of the island, and some open water having been seen from the hills in the channel separating it from the eastern mainland, we 282 DIFFICrLTIES AND DETENTIONS i this moriiiiio; went south about the island, which oceupieil ei«^ht hours' incessant rowing. Then crossing the strait, which is three miles wide, we landed to breakfast at Point Everitt. The ice obstructed our passage round this cape, after which we had a clear channel to Fisher's Islands, where we encamped at 9 p. m., having come thirty-five miles. The last of Barry Islands affords a fine illustration of the secondary resting upon the primitive rocks. The horizontal line of stra- tification appeared as accurately drawn as in a work of art. At the precipice from whose face I took away specimens, there were about twenty feet of the base rock above the sea, with eighty feet of trap cliff superimposed. Others doubled these dimensions. Point Everitt, and the whole ransfc of the mainland to Melville Sound, are formed of bare rounded granitic hills of inferior altitude, while all the adjacent islands present a mixed geological character. Our progress on the 5th was not much im- peded till we reached Cape Croker, where the ice was squeezed upon the shore, and obliged us to make a portage. We had a view of Mel- ville Sound quite covered with ice, but an almost clear channel luckily stretched across its en- trance to a low island, four or five miles dis- tant ; the northern side of which being shut up, Of, -^ -4 \ I 1 AMONGST ICK. 283 wo LMicanipetl at 8 i*. m. A pair of brown cranes stalked about — the luulisputecl lords of the isle before our arrival. Many large brown ducks flew past, and " cacawees " were moulting along the shore in great numbers. A very strong current, amounting to a rapid, ran between the south end of this island and an islet lying off it ; a similar appearance was afterwards noticed near Cape Flinders. A narrow channel having o])ened, we re-cm- barked at 4 o'clock the following morning. After advancing for two or three hours, we were again stopped by the ice, but endeavoured to force our way through it, encouraged by the appearance of some water ahead. Thrice we repeated the attempt, and as often found ourselves hemmed in, and compelled to carry both boats and car- goes to the shore, to save them from being crushed. On the summit of a cliff, one hundred and fifty feet high, I found two pieces of wood, almost rotten. They must have been left there many years ago by the natives, who seem fond of encamping on elevated spots. The ice-covered gulph, with its innumerable dark rugged islands, the clouds gloomily gathering over the crescent- shaped mainland, and long files of waterfowl passing aloft to the southward, warned by instinct of some coming change, while around flew several 2S4 DlFKICL'l.TIES AND UKTl-NTIONS large liawks, serejiniing wildly at the danger that threatened their vouiiff brood from the intrusion of man, — these were the objeets that met my view from the heights; and the stern prospeet was lit- tle calculated to cheer our sj)irit8, or to buoy up our hopes. At the same ])eriod in lbi21, accord- ing to Franklin's journal, the ice was either dis- solved or entindy dispersed. The Meather for the ten preceding days had been very mild, and the temperature singularly equable ; the extremes (judging by our feelings) being 40° and 50^ The temperature of the sea, however, continued so low, that new or " bay" ice formed every calm night in the o]>en spots, and cut our boats even more than the old. And I would here remark that the bows of all boats intended for such ser- vice should be partially sheathed with copper. On the 7th the tide and heavy rain opened a channel a gunshot wide, where all our efforts had proved unavailing. We made a farther ])ro- gress of three hours, when we were again ar- rested in the usual way. It will be tedious and dispiriting to us, to sec day after day and week after week pass in a constant and inef- fectual struggle with the same cold obdurate foe. I saw three or four deer on a narrow point, some distance from our encampment; but, on l\ AMONCJST 1( K. 2H5 'r>1 fii my cuttin«]f tlu'in otl' from the land, tliov took to the ire, and soon galloped out of reach. Tlio moon was visihle to-ni<,^ht, but it was a passing glimi>sp, and she soon vanished amidst fog and storm. 'I'lie tbUowing day was marked hy nothing l)ut fog and rain, with a gale from the nortli-west. On the 9th tiie iec in Walker and Riley bays at length broke np, and we crossed them under sail, with a fresh breeze from the northward. The water for the first time tasted truly salt. We landed at Cape Flinders to breakfast, where a lump of galena was found among the rocks. A piece of wood was also picked up, fashioned like a small fish ; an invention probably used by the Esquimaux to lure trout and other fish to holes cut in the ice, where they stand ready to spear them, [mmediately on doul)ling the cape, the ice once more put a stop to out progress. To reach this point, which in a direct line is hardly forty miles from Cape Barrow, we had performed a circuit of one hundred and forty. We should not, however, have regretted this labour, had it not been attended by so great a sacrifice of time, without any melioration of our prospects. The tents were pitched on a beach of sharp stones, the size of a man's fist, and Inrger, which our men humorously styled " north-west t ;) ;! '^ 28G BOATS FINALLY ARRESTED feathers." The poor fellows' stock of tobacco was by this time entirely consumed, and it was amusin^T to witness the shifts and substitutes they employed. Swamp-tea, pepper, salt, cotton rags, and even oakum, were used to replenish their empty pipes. People voluntarily subject themselves to a species of slavery in acquiring such useless and disagreeable habits. Of all the individuals composing the expedition I was the only non-smoker ; and, throughout the fur countries generally, the exceptions scarcely amount to one in a hundred. The tediousness of time, and the absence of the amusements and recreations common in other parts of the world, sufficiently account for the universal pre- valence of a custom so general, even where no such palliation exists. From the 9th to the 19th of August — a long and fatal delay — we experienced an almost un- interrupted succession of violent gales from the north and west, beating directly upon the shore, accompanied by severe frost, with frequent falls of rain and snow. We remained miserable pri- soners in the same ill-omened spot, scarcely able to collect, from a couple of miles on either side, drift wood enough to cook our two daily meals of pemican. Reindeer had become scarce; but ducks and geese passed in large flights to the f 's NEAR POINT TURNAGAIN. 287 i southward. Tlie main body of ice before us, which seemed commensurate with the ocean, remained unmoved, resting upon the very sand ; while the enormous mass that the gales had broken up in the gulph, closed in behind us with a crashing noise, often mistaken for thunder. Not an acre of water was visible from the heights in any direction, except the little cove in which we lay. Even that poor corner was frequently frozen over of a morning ; and, to all appearance, it would now prove nearly as difficult to retreat as to advance. The ice, different from what we had lately seen, was covered with snow, brilliantly white ; and we could have little doubt that it was destined soon to unite with the new formation of the approaching winter. Had these gales oc- curred during the calms of July, our voyage would, in all probability, have by this time ap- proached a successful termination. Speaking of a calm season. Sir John Ross observes, that it is " the most unfavourable weather for navigating these seas, since it is only through the force of the winds that the ice can be opened and dis- persed, as navigators are indebted to the northerly gales of SMmmer for whatever progress they can make." Our short summer was now at an end ; we all wore our winter clothing; and the truth of the remark just quoted was evident on com- i i I i ^ t .! 288 BOATS FINALLY ARRESTED paring the inclement and boisterous summer of 1837, and the success that then crowned our efforts in a higher latitude, witli our present helpless position. That our exertions had even exceeded those of the previous year, the planks of the boats, torn and jagged by the ice, bore alarming proof. It would be difficult to depict our sorrow and disajipointment at being thus arrested at the very threshold of our enterprise. Often did we walk along the coast, and climb the hills; but the prospect was still the same. At 1 in the morning of the 16th I first saw the stars ; had the sky been clear, they would have been visible several days earlier. On the lOtli the sun set at 8 hrs. 30 min. mean time. The period appointed for the re- turn of former expeditions was now arrived. Franklin's farthest encampment in 1821 was about three miles to the northward of us ; but on the 16th of August, in that year, he found here a perfectly open sea. The extreme length and severity of the last winter must have had some share in producing so great a difference. I may here mention that what appeared the natural run of the tides rarely exceeded one foot; but that, impelled by the westerly gales, the water rose twenty-one inches, and fell off again as soon as the wind shifted to the north. ^Vhen- \i- ■ ' T* ' m A W. i I NEAR POINT TURNAGAIN. 289 ever there appeared tlie least regularity, I inserted the results in the annexed table. The flood came from the westward. We certainly found but one diurnal tide to the eastward of the Coppermine River — similar to what has been observed on the shores of Australia. Boathaven — the appellation conferred on our encampment — is situated in lat. 68° 16' 25" N., long, (by capital lunars) 109" 20' 45" W. ; variation 46° E. That this voyage might not prove wholly fruit- less, I proposed to conduct a party of seven men on foot, for ten days, along the coast to the east- ward. Should the winds after my departure un- expectedly blow off the land, Mr. Dease agreed to follow with one boat and the remaining five men, leaving the other boat, with the bulk of the provisions, in security at our present encamp- ment. No better plan could be devised for achieving at least a portion of the discoveries which we had fondly hoped to complete, without relinquishing the chance of pushing them as far as Ross's Pillar, if the winds happily changed, and drove the ice off the shore. My proposition was, therefore, joyfully received by all, and the crews again volunteered with one accord to accompany me. I chose those who had not been with me at Point Barrow in 1837 ; and the necessary preparations were made for setting out u 290 BOATS FINALLY ARRESTED. Signals were next day — the 20th of August, likewise arranged to prevent our missing each other on the way; and, should we unfortunately do so, the last day of August was fixed for the rendezvous of both detachments at Boathaven. I V n. 1 n 1 '%% I '1 1 ffl 291 CHAPTER XII. M- >!- Journey on foot and important discoveries to the Eastward. — Return to the Coppermine, and skilful ascent of that river. — Traverse of the Barren Grounds, and arrival at Fort Confidence. On Monday the 20th of August, at 8 a. m., we set out on our journey of discovery. My com- panions were five of the Company's servants and the two Indians. Each man's load at starting weighed about half a hundred- weight, compre- hending a tent for the nightly shelter of the whole party, a canvass canoe, with frame and cords, to ferry us across rivers, a box of astro- nomical instruments, a copper kettle, two axes, guns, ammunition, and provisions for ten days ; in short, our food, lodging, bedding, arms, and equipage. As for myself, my trusty double-barrel slung at my back, a telescope, compass, and dagger formed my only encumbrance ; so that I might at pleasure ascend the rising grounds, to take bearings and view the coast. The plan of u 2 I it 292 IMPORTANT DISCOVERIES march I adopted was as follows : — We set out at 7 or 8 A.M., after breakfasting (which lessened the loads), and obtaining observations for longi- tude ; and travelled for ten hours, exclusive of a halt of half an hour at noon to procure the lati- tude and variation. With their burdens the men advanced fully two miles an hour ; our daily progress thus averaging twenty geographical, or twenty-three English miles. A fatigue party of three men attended us to our first encampment. About the middle of this day's journey we passed the extreme point to which Sir John Franklin and his officers walked in 1821. A little farther we found several old Esquimaux camping- places, and human skulls and bones were seen in various situations. One skeleton lay alongside that of a musk-bull, in such a manner as ren- dered it extremely probable that the dying beast had gored the hapless hunter. The coast-line continued low ; our road alternt ' '^ly leading over sand, sharp stones, through swamps and rivulets. Large boulder rocks rose here and there upon the shore and acclivities. The ice all along was forcibly crushed upon the beach, the edging of water being so shallow that the gulls waded be- twixt the ice and the sand. During the greater part of the day we v,;-^n' drenched with rain. The land preserved its north-north-east direction f- .11 I ¥ i h TO THE EASTWARD. 293 1 t.; to our encampment — on the pitch of a flat cape — in lat. 68° 37' N., lonrr. 108° 58' W. This spot I named Cape Franklin, as a tribute of respect, from a perfect stranger, to tliat enterprising and justly celebrated officer. Land, twenty or twenty-five miles off, high, and covered with snow, stretched from west to north-east, and raised apprehensions that we were entering a deep inlet or sound. We had no sooner turned Cape Franklin on the 21st than we came in view of a very distant hill, bearing N. 82° E., which I rightly conjec- tured to stand not far back from the coast. The latter is remarkably straight ; but the walking was very fatiguing, the shore consisting chiefly of soft, wet sands, traversed by a multitude of brooks. These descend from a range of low, stony hills, w'hich, at the distance of two or three miles, close the inland view, and were partially clothed with moss and scanty herbage. The ice was everywhere grounded on the shore ; but the weather had by this time improved, and con- tinued so clear and moderate during the rest of the outward journey, that I daily obtained astro- nomical observations. A flight of white geese passed us, led on, or officered, by three large grey ones {miser Canadensis), Numerous flocks of these fowl were luxuriating in the fine feeding 294 IMPORTANT DISCOVERIES i that the marshes and little bays afforded. The young geese were large and strong; but, having not yet acquired the perfect command of their wings, we captured several upon the ice. Two white wolves were skulking on the hill-side, and a brace of Alpine hares were shot. Just be- fore encamping, we forded Hargrave River — so named by me after a particular friend : it is about a hundred yards wide. Our tent in the evening wore the semblance of a tailor's and cobbler's shop, every one being engaged in repairing the injuries his liabiliments had received during the day. At this place we secured, under a heap of stones, two days' provisions, to serve for our return to the boats. The shore next day maintained nearly the same character, and was intersected by many small streams ; none of which, on our choosing proper crossing-places, reached more than waist- high. They flow over a bed of stones or sand : their waters were at this time low and clear ; but their deep and rugged channels shewed that, at the melting of the snows, not a few of them become formidable torrents. The ice grew hea- vier as we advanced, and had been driven ashore with such violence by the gales as to plough up the shingle and raise it in heaps upon the beach. The stranded fragments were from three TO THE EASTWARD. 295 g |1 ir V o 1 d ! o V t ST 8 to six feet thick, but "^o icebergs were any- where to be seen. I hoped, from this strong evidence of winds and tides, that we were not engaged in exploring a bay ; though the northern land still stretched out before us, appearing in some places scarcely twenty miles distant. We found to-day the bones of a large whale and the skull of a Polar bear, and sea-wrack and shells strewed the beach. No deer were seen, but the recent print of their hoofs often appeared in the sand. In the afternoon we passed, at a distance of six miles, the conspicuous hill mentioned yesterday. It is about six hundred feet high, and received the name of Mount George, after my respected relative, Governor Simpson. Drift wood was become so scarce that we made a practice of picking up every piece we could find, an hour or two before camping-time, to prepare our supper and breakfast. Some of the men's legs were much swelled and inflamed this even- ing from the fatigue of their burdens, the ine- qualities of the ground, and the constant immer- sion in icy-cold water. The tide fell sixteen or eighteen inches during our stay at Point Bal- lenden; but, as it had been subsiding for some time previously, I think the whole rise and fall must exceed two feet. Strong new ice formed in every open spot during the calm of the night. '-**• I M m 2i)G IMPORTANT DISCOVERIES On tlie 23rcl the coast led somewhat more to the northward. The travelling was exceed- ingly painful ; the beach and slopes of the hills being formed of loose stones, varied here and there by moss, and an ample number of brooks and streams. We, however, advanced with spi- rit, all hands being in eager expectation respect- ing the great northern land, which seemed in- terminable. Along its distant shore the beams of the declining sun were reflected from a broad channel of open water ; while, on the coast we Mere tracing, the ice still lay immoveable, and extended many miles to seaward. As we drew near in the evening an elevated cape, land ap- peared all round, and our worst fears seemed confirmed. With bitter disappointment I ascend- ed the height, from wdience a vast and splendid prospect burst suddenly upon me. The sea, as if transformed by enchantment, rolled its free waves at my feet, and beyond the reach of vision to the eastward. Islands of various shape and size overspread its surface; and the northern land terminated to the eye in a bold and lofty cape, bearing east-north-east, thirty or forty miles distant, while the continental coast trended away south-east. I stood, in fact, on a remarkable headland, at the eastern outlet of an ice-ob- structed strait. On the extensive land to the I Ir 1 _, ''■4) 4 4. A If % f «!! ^ ■.-*« * — * - TO THE EASTWARD. 297 *j ^* \ north ward I bestowed the name of iir lno^ gracious sovereign Queen Metoria. lt« ramtorn visible extremity I called Cape Pelly, in com- pliment to the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company ; and the ])romontory where we en- camped Cape Alexander, after an only brother, who would give his right-hand to be the sharer of my Journeys. Cape Alexander is a rounded, rocky ridge, covered with loose stones,* four miles in width, and two or three hundred feet high. Its west- ern part is situated in lat. G8° 5G' N., long. 106' 40' W. The rise and fall of the tide here was little short of three feet, being the great- est yet observed by us in the Arctic seas. The weather wns calm, and the tide falling, when we halted. A considerable quantity of loose ice passed to the westward, and floated back again as the water rose in the morning, afford- ing a seeming presumption that the flood came from that quarter. A solitary deer bounded up the ascent, and along the shore ran a path beaten by those animals. Sinclair wounded one of a small herd of musk-cattle that were graz- ing on the banks of a lake behind the cape, * The prevailing surface rock was a conglomerate, while the sides of the ravines hollowed out by brooks were of red sandstone. 298 IMPORTANT DISCOVERIES i U H but it escaped. Esquimaux marks stood upon tlie hel^ljts, but no recent traces of inhabitants could be found. We next morning cut across tlio eastern shoul- der of Cape Alexander, to Musk-ox Lake, M'hich lies in a valley. It is half a mile long, and empties itself by a subterraneous channel, through a steep ridge of shingle, into another basin, about half its si/e, which was frozen to the bottom. Crossing the ice, we forded the little stream below, which, like many others, still retained drifts of snow on its banks. Our rouijh route led amongst large boulders, and through wet mossy tracts producing dwarf willows. The im- mediate coast-line continued flat, but skirted as before by low stony hills. Some ice lingered in the bays, but the sea was quite open. At the distance of nine miles we crossed another bluff cape, composed of trap rocks, where an observation gave the latitude 68° 52' 19'' N., variation 63° East. This was the greatest de- viation of the compass from the true meridian. From Boathaven to Cape Franklin the varia- tion increased very fast, since only nine miles beyond that cape it was found to be 60°. Thence advancing eastward, it fell off to 56" 30', and again augmented as the coast trended more northerly; while from Trap Cape to our i If I k^ i M TO THE EASTWARD. 299 extreme point — only eleven miles in a south- easterly direction — it diminished nearly one and a half degrees. Where the direction of our journey crossed that of Ross's magnetic pole at large angles, the change of variation was rapid; when we travelled nearly in the lino of that pole, the change was slow. The farther east we went, the more sluggish did the compass become; the pocket one especially often had to be shaken before it would traverse at ail, and, when set upon the rocks, would sometimes remain pointing just as it was placed. At G r. M. wo opened what appeared a very extensive bay, running far away southward, and studded with islands. A\ e proceeded on to a projecting point, where we encamped. From thence I could trace part of the western shores of the bay, formed by a bold curve of granitic hills ; other land blending with the horizon in the E.S.E., apparently very remote. As the time allotted for outgoing was now expired, this great bay, which would have consumed many days to walk round, seemed an appropriate limit to our journey. Under any circumstances, the continued and increasing lameness of two or three of my men must have rendered my re- turn hence imperative. I had, indeed, at one time hoped to fall in with Esquimaux, and with ,1 I 300 IMPORTANT DISCOVERIES their assistance to reach Ross's Pillar; but we had already explored a hundred miles of coast without encountering an inhabitant. The site of three lodges, with a little fire-place of stones apart, was found here, but they were not of this year. Cold and famine, I fear, are gradually wasting away that few in numbers and widely- scattered people. A rapid stream discharge 1 its waters into the bay, two miles to the south- ward of our encampment, and was called the " Beaufort," after the learned hydrographer to the Admiralty ; while the group of islands be- yond received the name of the first Lord of the Admiralty, the Earl of Minto. The morning of the 25th was devoted to the determination of our position, and the erection of a pillar of stones on the most elevated part of the point; then, hoisting our union-jack, I took formal possession of the country in her Majesty's name. In the pillar I deposited a brief sketch of our proceedings. It is in lat. 68° 43' 39" N., long, (reduced by the watch from Boathaven) 106° 3' 0" W.; and the variation was 60° 38' 23" East. Our present discoveries were in themsel ves not unimportant ; but their value was much enhanced by the disclosure of an open sea to the eastward, and the suggestion of a new route — along the &. &•-■ mM *;* ^ THE COPPERMINE RIVER. 30;") m 5 m at a distance by Sir John Franklin. Some of the northern passages were blocked up with ice, but everywhere else there was a clear sea among- these islands. They arc all of the trap formation, like those farther down the gulph.* Another traverse of ten miles extends to some islands on the eastern side, within fifteen miles of Cape Barrow. From thence we were favoured with a fine passage on an open sea; but there was a frequent fall of snow, the weather was cold and wintry, and we had some rough sailing during the dark nights. At a rocky cape, where we landed to sup at midnight, I noticed a quantity of phosphorescent substances in the water. We met no natives ; and at 6 p.m. on the 8rd of September we safely re-entered the Coppermine River. The Esquimaux had ventured back during our absence, and carried away everything except their sledge and stone kettles ; leaving marks on the hillock, pointing to the seaward islands as the place of their retreat. To evince our friendly disposition, and compensate the loss of their dogs, we left them a copper kettle, two axes, as many ice-trenches, with an assortment of knives, files, * Being unable to weather the outermost island, which is large and lofty, we ran round its south end, and called it Chapman Island, after one of the Company's Directors. 306 SKILFUL ASCENT hooks, awls, beads, buttons, rings, and a parcel of hoop-iron. This — to them invaluable — gift was secured in a box, on which boats and men were figured with charcoal. Next day the boats were towed up to the Bloody Fall, now diminished to a strong shelving rapid. There, in a deep cleft in the rocks, we secured ten bags of pemican, to meet the exigencies of another season. The masts, yards, rudders, and spare oars were secreted on an island below the fall. No late vestiges of the natives were anywhere discernible, though an eddy at the foot of the fall still swarmed with fish. The few blue berries that grow among the rocks were withered and fallen. On the morning of the 5th the boats were, by M'Kay's and Sinclair's united skill, successively passed up the fall perfectly light, both crews hauling on ropes formed of the rigging spliced together for the purpose. In the lower part, where the descent was too steep, they made a launch over the rocks. In another place, the boat sheering out, the waves broke copiously into her ; and the bowman was on the point of cutting the line, to save the trackers, who, ignorant of their danger, because concealed from view by a projecting point of rocks, would have been jerked into the abyss the instant the boat overset. Her depth of keel, however, prevented a catastrophe I 1 I 41 ^ OF THE COPPERMINE RIVER. 307 m \ wliicli must have hapi)ene(l to any of tlio flat- bottomed inland bateaux in the same situation. It snowed heavily, and ice an inch thick formed at night in the kettles; but our people worked their way up the rapids with equal spirit and dexterity, and we encamped two miles below the Escape. In the passage of that dangerous rapid, the following day, Mr. Dease's boat got broken, in consequence of the line snapping, and the bow- man losing his presence of mind. The injury was repaired in a few hours, and we made good ten miles. The lurking rock, which had so nearly caused our destruction on the descent, now rose high above the shrunken stream, leaving the narrow, perilous channel that saved us almost dry. At the foot of the long succession of precipices which we shot past with such amazing velocity in June, there was now, in most parts, a narrow bank or ledge exposed by the subsiding of the waters. Where this was not the case, all hands embark- ed ; and, if no bottom could be found with the setting-poles, the boats were drawn up by means of the ice-hooks, fixed in crevices and on sharp points of the rock. In this difficult operation it was necessary actually to graze the cliffs, some fending off the boat's side ; otherwise the force of the current must have overpowered our hold, and X 2 i H I \ \ n08 SKTT^FUL ASCENT carried ns down ImokMards. In sonio of tin* worst places short ])ortai>es were made ; in others, the boats took in much water ; and the strain on the lines was often so great, that the trackers, even on all fours, could scarcely maintain their ground. AVhere bars and shallows occurred, the boats were j)oled up in ziz-zag fiishion ; or the men, getting out in the water, handed them over the obstruction. Numerous fragments of rock ke[)t falling from the face of the clitfs as the towing i>arties passed under them, and one man narrowly escaj^cd getting his leg fractured ; theii- feet were at the same time much galled by the sharp stones which strewed their difficult path. The preceding description is equally applicable to our journey of the 7th, when we surmounted the strong rapid where we were detained on the 23rd and 24th of Juno. Nothing but the skill and dexterity of guides long practised, like ours, in all the intricacies of river navigation could l)ave overcome so many obstacles : it is not, therefore, surprising that Dr. Richardson's less experienced crews should have found it necessary to relinquish the attempt, oven with the " walnut shell." We felt a positive comfort in encamping once more among standing trees, though ever so diminutive. We were now above all the bad rapids; the (5V 1 01' 'I'liE coin'KKMiM-; kivi:r. ;]O0 ^ banks bceaino loss stce)), the current regular, but swift and strong. The water had a tine sea-green coh)ur : it was deej), and so clear, that lish were often seen by the boMnien darting along the stony bottom. The weather grew mild under the intlucnce of southerly breezes, to which we had long been strangers; and, in the height of the day, the sandflies even became trouble" some on the immediate borders of the river. Mr. Dease and myself walked across the coun- try, enjoyed some picturesque views of the Cop- per Mountains, and had excellent S])ort among the deer, which were tolerably numerous and in high condition. The towing party picked up several small pieces of copper and galena washed down by the river, and passed the carcases of a number of deer that had been drowned in the rapids. At 1 in the afternoon of the 9tli w^o reached a well- wooded spot, five or six miles below the junction of Kendall River. This being the nearest point of the Coppermine to Fort Confidence, and at the same time an eligible place for repairing the boats in the ensuing spring, we determined to deposit them here. They were accordingly hauled up into the wood, beyond the reach of the spring inundation. Three bags of pemican, two of flour, and everything else not absolutely 'U I 310 TIUVERSK Ol' required for the luiul journey, \vere seciuetl from beasts of prey in a cache of ponderous stones ; all that we carried with us scarcely amounting to thirty pounds each man. On the 10th, striking strniirht out through thin dead woods, and barrens a! ounding in small lakes, we fell upon Kendall lliver at the end of ten miles, about half a league below our spring provision station. It was only knee-deep there, full of large stones, and, like Dease River on tlie opposite side of the height of land, must be quite unnavigable, except in the month of June. I may take this opportunity of ob- serving, that the actual descent of the former stream, though its course be shorter, appeared to us little inferior to that of the latter. The Coppermine, therefore, in its course of seventy miles from Kendall River to the sea. makes a descent equal to that of the whole of Bear Lake River, itself a rapid stream, together with that of the Mackenzie, below their confluence, — a united distance of between five and six hundred miles. In the evening, as we crossed a desolate valley full of lakes, a cloud of snow geese suddenly poured over the brow of a neighbouring hill, and aliglited about the lakes. Deer were scarce ; but, having wounded a small one, we were sur- prised to see the biggest of our Esquimaux dogs. TIIK 15A1111KN GROUNDS. 311 3^ I h though like the rest of tho party they carried buiulles oil their backs, rush forward and throt- tle the poor animal as it strove to escape.* The night was very cold, and our bivouac was on the side of a barren mountain. Next day we traversed a range of M'ild rugged hills of naked rock, to the south branch of Kendall River: then, ascending the valley, we discovered in the evening smoke issuing out of the solitary cluster of pines where I slept on the 4th of April. We marched along the hill- sides, and, when within hearing, discharged our guns ; upon which several fires were simulta- neously kindled. Descending from the heights, we crossed the streamlet, and found a nume- rous camp of Hare Indian women and children ; the men being out a-hunting, or gone to Fort Confidence with meat. These kind peo])ie were delighted to see us, and ofiered us food. The greeting which our two hunters — their relatives — received was boisterously affectionate. The old women closed around them, hugged them over and over again, and, in the transports of their joy, even ! f * These dogs, contrary to our expectation, proved very inferior in the sledge to our own European breed ; their size being considerably smaller, after due allowance for their bushy coats and the shortness of their leg unfitting them for making their way through deep snow. i 312 ARRIVAL AT ! vvt'nt the lonoftli of abstract in "j;" knives and sundry other small articles from their persons — doubtless as memorials of their safe and happy return. The poor fellows themselves seemed rather ashamed of this hubbub in the presence of whites, and looked as if they would gladly have dispensed with the disinterested attentions of the elderly ladies. Wo travelled all the succeeding day over bare mountains covered with loose stones; the wea- ther snowy, and bitterly cold. In the evening wc descended to the borders of some lakes, where the natives had constructed a deer hedge set with nooses. On the 13th, seeing large smokes on the north side ofDease River, we made towards them, though a good way out of our course. Falling upon a deep part of the stream, some crossed it on a raft, others found a ford. We lighted fires in conspicuous places, which were answered ; and at length we were overtaken by two Indians, who, with as many others, carrying a bag of pemican, had been considerately despatched by Ritch to meet us. Fortunately we did not stand in need of their assistance ; and, proceeding on, we encamped at Chollah Lake, which is three miles long, and contains some pretty islands. On the 14tli we traversed a woody tract to Is 10 111 Id (I y I'ORT (ONFIDKNCK. oV3 the iiortli of Dc'jiso Itivcr; and caiiio in view of Grout IJcjir Ijako at noon, from (yranlx'rry I fill, six miles distant from the ostablisliment. Throw- in •»• ourselves down, wo regaled freely on tlu^ ae J fruit, wliicli grew profusely among tlie rocks ; th n, setting out at a quick [>ace, in two hours more wo arrived at Fort Confidence. ;« i I f 314 WINTER TRANSACTIONS : I I' chaptp:r XIII. Transactions at Fort Confidence, Winter 1838-39. — Murder and Distress among the Indians. — Relief afforded them. We had the satisfaction to find the people in perfect health, and everything in good order, on our arrival. The buildings had been ren- dered more comfortable during the summer ; and Ritch had not only purchoL-ied a considerable quantity of dried venison from the Indians, but had also prepared in the same manner several thousand trout and white-fish, taken by his fish- ermen on either side of the island. A serious mis- understanding with the natives had, however, nearly arisen from a very trivial cause. A person at the house caught a little water-insect, bearing, like the root of the mandrake, some faint resem- blance to the human form, and afterwards threw it back into the lake. Out of this incident a story was manufactured and circulated, that the whites had caught and nuu'dered an Indian, and cast hisbody into the water; nor were the natives OF 1838-39. 315 convinced of their foolish credulity till after our return. Supposing, from the stock of provisions on hand, that we might safely dispense with the further services of our Chipewyan hunters, we sent them back to their own country by a boat which came with our supplies from Mac- kenzie River. After being liberally recompensed for all the meat they had furnished us, and amply provided for their journey, they received a present of two hundred beaver-skins payable on their arrival at Athabasca. As it was their intention to hunt a rich fur country on their way from Fort Simpson thither, if they have learned foresight and economy from the whites who brought them so far from their own lands* they may, with such means untouched before them, be among the most independent of savages. Four men of our own, and some dogs, were despatched by the same conveyance to Mackenzie River and Great Slave Lake, to meet the ex- pected expresses, and bring back some articles of clothing, &c. required by our people, which had been kindly forwarded from Norway House by Chief Trader Ross. On the 18th of September an annular eclipse of the sun took place. Its beginning was invi- sible, from clouds ; and the Indians at the house looked on with surprise when they saw me place t \ li '. i 31G W I N TEH TRANSACTION S i myself at the telescope, lint, before noon, tlie heavens cleared, the sun shone out, shorn of half his beams, and the natives were struck with amazement when I pointed out to them the moon-like form of the more glorious luminary. Then their chief conjuror, Zaedhi, confessed that he was but a child in knowledge. This reminds me of a singular coincidence in a prediction of that same personage, at Fort Confidence, regard- ing us, during our absence on the coast. After working himself up to the prophetic pitch with the aid of his drum and other mysteries, lie sud- denly exclaimed, in presence of the inmates, " I am afraid, 1 am afraid — I see Esquimaux dogs in their camp," &c. He afterwards assured his wondering auditory that he had been with us " in the spirit," and exhibited some balls belong- ing to my percussion gun, the first of that sort he had ever seen, which he pretended to have taken out of my pocket while asleep, though he had in reality abstracted them from my apart- ment, probably for this express purpose. The more horrible parts of his prediction were dis- proved by our safe return ; but his single hit, regarding the doffs, was amply sufficient to secure him an enduring reputation among his credulous countrymen. The professions of conjuror and physician are among all savage nations united, OF 1838-39. 317 or ratlior synonymous, for ignorance is the parent of superstition. As the young men who assisted us to Kendall River, and who carri"^d my little wolves to the establishment, were on their way thither, they stopped at the hunting-camp, where they found the blind old man, already spoken of, at the point of death. The singular thought instantly occurred to the conjuring doctor that the skin of one of the poor little animals, taken off and applied, yet warm with the vital heat, to the breast of the expiring man, would reani- mate him and restore his vigour. The experi- ment was tried, but I need not add in vain. This aged man's was the only natural death that occurred within our knowledge durino- the summer, for the natives enjoyed abundance, and were happily free from all sickness ; but, on the 20th of October, we received the distressing news of the murder of two young Dog-rib girls in the direction of the Coppermine, a few days after our return from that river. They had gone out to a little distance from the camp, in order to carry home venison, when they were assailed by some dastardly lurking wretch, who despatched the poor defenceless creatures with a knife. IMany and various were the opinions respecting the perpetrators of this detestable crime ; even the Esquimaux were accused ; but ? ; s ' 318 MURDER AMONG !. ■ for some time suspicion rested upon the Copper Indians. The Dog-ribs and Hare Indians long- groaned under cruel injuries from the latter licentious tribe, who termed them " slaves," and, whenever they met, used to rob them of their women and their most valuable effects. But the " slaves," though to a stranger they appear a mild race, are yet exceedingly treacherous; a quality which their cowardice serves but to augment, for what they dare not attempt openly they effect through stratagem and cunning. Thus, in 1823, they fell upon their persecutors by surprise, and cut off a considerable party, including The Hook and Long Legs, who figure in Sir John Frank- lin's first journey. The terror of this act of retribution is undoubtedly the cause why we were visited by no Copper Indians during our long residence at Fort Confidence. The present suspicion arose from the recent death of Akaitcho, the old chief of that tribe, so honourably men- tioned by Franklin and Back, and a reported declaration of his followers, that their grief and despair could only be consoled by making war upon their unoffending neighbours. At length, however, the suspicion attached to the Copper Indians was discarded, and the guilt fixed by the natives upon an individual of their own camp, named Edahadelly (my quondam hunting THE INDIANS. 319 companion), who had all but avowed the comi mission of a former act of blood. I shall give the reasons which led to this conclusion, as they furnish a favourable specimen of Indian logic; though it is but fair to add that they were the fruit of the united wisdom of the whole camp, extracted by slow degrees, and matured in many long and smoky conferences. Edahadelly, on his return to the camp on the day of the murder, reported that he had seen at a distance two sus- picious-looking strangers, who were never heard of afterwards, nor were even their tracks seen by the other hunters, who were out in various directions the same day. On one of the bodies being brought in by those who went to look for the missing girls, he set about conjuring, which he pretended revealed to him the place where the other corpse lay, and its position ; also that, after being mortally wounded, the poor little girl had applied a piece of leather to her side to stop the effusion of blood. All these parti- culars were verified ; Edahadelly himself leading the way to the fatal spot, and afterwards taking upon him the duty of interring the body, in order, the Indians said, to entitle him, without confessing the deed, to assume certain marks upon the wrists and neck—the same which, by their superstition, a murderer wears. i\ \\ i I i^ ; i M, '' 820 DISTRESS AMONC t > I Whoever was the real assassin, the alarm oc- casioned by this atrocious action had well-nigh brought upon our Indians, and upon ourselves, still greater calamities. The natives abandoned their hunting grounds, and flocked for protection to the establishment, where it was afterwards asserted by the female inmates that a plot was actually hatching against us by the relatives of the deceased, the very people who shared most liberally in our bounty; "because," said they, " if the fort had not been on our lands, we should not have been where we were when the misfortune happened ! " Be this as it may, many of the Indians must have perished from hunger, had it not been for the prompt and extensive relief we afforded them, not merely while they remained with us, but comprehending provisions to take them to places where they might pro- cure their own subsistence. This was done at our own imminent risk ; for, though fall-fisheries were established immediately after our return from the coast, they were unproductive, and the winter fisheries yielded still less than those of the pre- vious season. During the remainder of the year 1838 the natives were a grievous burthen upon us, and rendered us little or no assistance; for the deer had deserted the peninsula, where they were so numerous the former winter, and retired f I THE INDIANS. 321 to the southward of Great Bear Lake, and along the woody borders of the Coppermine River. Most fortunately for all, the present winter was less inclement than the long and terrible one of 1837-8. Finding our resources falling very low, Sinclair was placed, with our two active coast-hunters, Larocqno an ' Maccaconce, who with their bro- thers formed a little party, at the head of IM'Tavish Bay. Animals being very scarce, the supply of meat we received from them in the beginning of 1839 was extremely small: matters, however, might have improved, had not a most exaggerated rumour of their success reached the ears of a number of elderly people and children who were scattered at the various fishing points in our vicinity. Some of these came to the house and received a supply of provisions from Mr. Dease, under promise of returning to their fishing-places, and remaining quiet till we heard certain news from the hunters; instead of which they all collected, and with the very means fur- nished them clandestinely set out to join those poor fellows, though not less than sixty miles off. This they regarded as a master-stroke of cunning, but it had well-nigh cost them dear; for in February Sinclair returned in a very re- duced state, having, in common with the whole Y < \ 322 RELIEF AFFORDED eauii), been for soiiio time subsisting on scraps of skin and roasted leather. The able hunters, he informed us, had been oldiged to separate from the old people who brought this misery u])on them, and proceed south-eastward to the Coppermine River; while tlie unfortunate dupes of their ow^n folly, about twenty in luimber, were left in a i)itiable condition at the head of M'Ta- vish Bay. We lost no time in sending them a large bag of pounded meat, reserved for making pcmican in the spring, which saved them from absolute starvation ; and, with Sinclair's assist- ance, they rejoined our hunters near the Copper- mine, whose services were consequently lost to us for the remainder of the season. Independent of frequent passing relief, we had, in the same month, the satisfaction of saving the lives of two old women and two little girls at tlie esta- blishment. The latter especially, when brought in, were so weak as to be scarcely able to stand ; but by care and kindness they recruited fast, and all remained with us till late in the spring. In short, the winter was one continued term of anxiety on our part for the natives around us; while our stock of food at the fort was, by the opening of March, almost entirely expended, our men having to perform journeys of two and three weeks' duration to the southward, where alone ft-. TO THE INDIANS. 323 reindeer were to bo found. The only persons M'ho actually perished during this miserable win- ter were an elderly woman and a new-born child, which the starving mother cast away. Far be it from us, however, to arrogate any merit for our exertions in preserving the lives of our fellow- creatures. It is a duty conscientiously fulfilled by every officer in the service when the occasion arrives, and was this very winter performed with equal effect by our next neighbour, Chief Trader M'Pherson of Mackenzie River. The cause which leads to the occasional aban- donment of the old and decrepit in the northern districts has never been thoroughly explained.* When a party determine upon proceeding to some distant hunting-ground, they usually leave the refuse of the camp at some known fishery, where they can easily subsist during the absence of the active and the robust. The old folks, however, who are in general noted as grumblers and haters of fish diet, are not always satisfied with this arrangement ; and, in spite of remon- * The Sioux, Assiniboines, and the tribes on the Missouri, according to Lewis and Clarke (vol. ii. p. 421), habitually abandoned their people when no longer able to follow the hunting-camps ; telling them that they had lived long enough, and that it was uow time for them to go home to their relations. \ 2 1 '^fi 324 WINTKR TRANSACTIONS straiicc, will hobble aftar the binitiiig-eanip, often reaching it long past nightfall. They act as a dead weight upon the able hunters, who arc by Indian law — a law founded on the two great principles of reciprocity and necessity — obliged to share their success with all ])rcscnt; and, when the scarcity occasioned by their own obstinacy ensues, thes*^ elderly people are, of course, the first to sink under it. In this very way were the twenty, whom Sinclair rescued from inevitable death, exposed to the last extremities, as already described. No people so soon get tired of any particular diet as Indians ; and their longings for change, even amidst the best cheer, are often truly ridiculous. The flexibility of their stomachs is no less surprising. At one time they will gorge themselves with food, and are then prepared to go without any for several days, if necessary. Enter their tents ; sit there, if you can, for a whole day, and not for an instant will you find the fire un- occupied by persons of all ages cooking. When not hunting or travelling, they are, in fact, always eating. Now, it is a little roast, a partridge or rabbit perhaps ; now, a tid-bit broiled under the ashes ; anon, a portly kettle, well filled with veni- son, swings over the fire ; then conies a choice dish of curdled blood, followed by the sinews and marrow-bones of deer's legs singed on the 'f OF 1838-39. 325 oihImts. And so tho ' him to inake a chart of the inlet on the snow, as our slender Huj)i>ly of pro- visions did not admit of penetrating farther into it, he drew the figure copied in the map (which I have recuced to the ?nodest estimate of twenty miles), with this cs jential difference from his [)rior statement, thut I 'ould encamp half-way the first night — at a mountain . " the shape of the white men's houses, contairiug a cave wherein the In- dians ])ractise '^"ur most "^^ lemn necromancy. The country - )utL eastward of M'Tavish Bay is very hilly, with granite rocks protru* lag through the snow, but becomes l)etter wooded the farther we recede from CJreat Bear Lake. Birch here begins to mingle with the pines ; and at Leg Lake, where we slept, I found the wood close enough to afford some shelter against the piercing winds, for the f^rst time during all my winter journeys from Fort Confidence. Widely different, indeed, are the hardships of such travelling in the baj'ren lands, from those endured in the well-wooded countries of Athabasca and Mackenzie River. During the day our road lies over bare mountains, or on the no less unsheltered and stormy lake— one S28 WINTER TRANSACTIONS i I , 1 traverse of which, thirty miles wide, I now crossed for the third time. The snow too is very rough and granulated, yielding, indeed, superior water to the soft snow of the woody districts, but tear- ing the sledges, and lacerating the feet both of men and dogs ; while the cold endured on the journey, especially during the night in the open, exposed encampment, is excessive, and trying to the stoutest constitution.* On my return to the establishment, I found that it had been visited by a party of eleven Ilare Indians from a remote camp to the westward, who brought a most acceptable supply of half- dried ribs of venison. They reported the snow to be very deep, and reindeer unusually numerous in their quarter ; which we were afterwards glad to find confirmed by letters from Mr. Bell, at Fort Good Hope. About this time also Le Babillard and a small hunting-party, three or four days' journey to the eastward, fell in most oppor- tunely with a drove of musk-cattle, in whose * Cold and comfortless as these bivou:'^s are, the spirit of hilarity generally prevails, when the fire has once been lighted, and the kettle begins to boil. I remember our little party being once convulsed by seeing an old dog snatch out of the fire, instead of a bone which some one had thrown there, the un- kindled end of a burning brand, and deliberately walk away with it in his mouth. Even such trifles will amuse after a long and wearisome day I OF 1838-39. 329 spoils we participated. While thus living from hand to mouth, we experienced the utmost in- quietude on account of M'Kay, Sinclair, and a young half-breed, who were absent with the party already mentioned, near the Coppermine River, for six-and-thirty days, without our receiving the least tidings of them. At last they made their appearance on the 15th of April, having till then barely subsisted among the large party, whose main support were our own two paid coast- hunters, without being able to collect any provi- sions for the establishment. Had it not been for another visit from the distant Hare Indians, ac- companied this time by several of their wives, we should have been ill off indeed. In the latter part of April our baggage was forwarded over the snow to the Coppermine, accompanied by Ritch, who carried with him, from the south branch of Dease River, planks for repairing the little sea-boats, when the weather became suffi- ciently mild for that work, in the middle of May. The mice had penetrated into our cache there, and revelled all winter upon our flour, besides cutting holes in the sails, &c. ; but, upon the whole, they might have done us more damage, had they been maliciously inclined. On the 1st of November we had sent to see if all was safe; at which time the impetuous Cop- I i if! 330 WINTER TRANSACTIONS permine was already frozen to the thickness of half a foot. In the course of the winter we received from London, by way of Canada, a dii)i)ing-needle, made by Jones, and had to regret the destruction of a mountain barometer, ajiplied for by me in 1836. The friendly attentions of Chief Trader Ross supplied us with an assortment of periodi- cals, which served to beguile the almost unsup- portable tedium of a second Polar winter. This season, as I have already remarked, was less severe than its predecessor ; and, as if it were a consequence of the difference, the aurora was more brilliant, displaying on several occasions the prismatic hues ; but the same arched form, from north-west to south-east, predominated. Every clear night, when not eclipsed by the moon, it was to be seen ; but was brightest and most active in the mornings, some time before daylight. At a quarter to 4 a.m., on the 5th of March, Ritcli witnessed a most brilliant exhi- bition. It formed a quadrant, issuing from west- north-west, and extending to the zenith. There it doubled on itself, and terminated in a semi- elliptical figure, apparently very near the earth, in rapid motion, and tinged with red. purple, and green. The half ellipse seemed to descend and ascend, accompanied by an audible sounds resem- OF 1838-39. 331 1 hling the rustling of silk. This lasted for about ten minutes, when the whole phenomenon sud- denly rose upwards, and its splendour was gone. Ritch is an intelligent and credible person ; and, on questioning him closely, he assured me that he had perfectly distinguished the sound of the aurora from that produced by the congelation of his breath-— for the temperature at the time was 44 degrees below zero. I can, therefore, no longer entertain any doubt of a fact uniformly asserted by the natives, and insisted on by Hearne, by my friend Mr. Dease, and by many of the oldest residents in the fur countries; though I have not had the good fortune to hear it myself. The winds in the early part of the winter were less violent, and blew less constantly from the eastward than in the preceding year; but with February the weather became boisterous and stormy, and continued so throughout the greater part of the season. North and south winds are of rare occurrence at any time at Fort Confidence. The east and west are the standard points ; the former, as already remarked, being by much the coldest, though less decidedly so this winter than last. As for quantity, I have never known a country so windy as Great Bear Lake; a calm day scarcely happens once a month. 332 WINTER TRANSACTIONS f. I 4i I had almost forgotten to say anything about my young wolves. At our return, the three sur- vivors were already grown large lank animals, gentle, timid, crouching to and fawning upon everybody. They were particularly anxious to ingratiate themselves with the dogs, but always met a repulse ; and were not unfrequently pur- sued into the woods, where their fleetness saved them from being worried. They themselves soon learned to chase the white partridge ; but, as the snow grew deep, they wandered less and became more domestic. Their appetite was vo- racious, and they growled in true savage style over their food. Sometimes the dogs brought them to bay in a corner ; but, when thus pressed, the wolves shewed such formidable grinders, and gnashed them so fiercely, that their persecutors were fain to stand aloof. When I happened to relieve them from this situation, the poor things would lick my hand, as if grateful for my jiro- tection. To save themselves from nocturnal at- tacks, they had the sagacity to take up their quarters on the top of the wood pile, whence their long melancholy howl arose at night above the clamorous serenade with which the canine species delight to entertain the residents at the trading posts. When any of the dogs followed me in my rambles, the wolves were sure to OF 1838-89. 333 keep out of the way ; but, when they perceived me alone, they soon bounded up, seized my coat or gloves, and nothing delighted them more than a roll with them in the snow. I began early to break them in to the sledge. Moscow — the male — w^as very strong, and at first tolerably will- ing: one of the females was all fire; but the other, — the tamest of the three, — when tackled, threw herself obstinately down upon the snow, and suf- fered herself to be dragged for miles in that state by the dogs before she would condescend to haul like them. At last Moscow, finding his own strength, grew so vicious that we were reluctantly obliged to destroy him. After devouring their brother, the two females betook themselves to the fishery on the south side of the island, where one of them got lamed by an Indian, with whose net she was taking undue liberties. From that time, poor Noma, the solitary sur- vivor, was usually kept chained at the house. She continued gentle, though very timorous ; but a most arrant thief when let loose : having on one oc^^asion filched a shoulder of venison ofi^* a sledge coming to the house; on another, snatch- ed a o-oose out of the hands of one of the women while plucking it ; carried off several baited lines set through holes in the ice to catch trout ; and played various other tricks of the same kind. 334 WINTER TRANSACTIONS b ) i: ^! 1 !( especially to the Indians. From tlic unconquer- able aversion of the dogs to my unlucky pet, I was disappointed in obtaining from her a cross breed, said to have been famous in some parts of the North. As I believe that such details of the habits of wild animals are interesting to naturalists, I shall offer no apology for inserting them here. The expedition received an important acces- sion, this spring, in the person of Ooligbuck — one of Sir John Franklin's Esquimaux interpreters. This man had, in 1836, been Mritten for by Chief Factor Charles, then in charge of York Factory, to the Company's establishment of Un- gava, in Laljrador ; and, having at length reached Red River settlement, was forwarded with ex- traordinary diligence by Chief Factor Christie, and the gentlemen along the route, — the whole journey from the latter place occupying only three months, less eight days. We had hoped that our difficulties would have terminated with April, but in this we were sadly disappointed. In the beginning of May, about thirty natives, from various parts along the bor- ders of the lake, came in half-starved, and located themselves alongside the establishment. We assisted them as far as our means permitted; but it may well be supposed that a party dou- \ J \ 1* OF 1838-39. 335 ble our own number, and too indolent even to look out for their own subsistence, soon became an intolerable burden. They expected to be indulged with as much ammunition as they chose to ask for, as soon as the wild fowl should make their appearance in the middle of the month ; a vain resource, for neither did any number of fowl pass this season, nor had we ammunition to spare for such small game : on the contrary, we were obliged on the 1st of the month to send an express to Fort Norman for a fresh supply of powder and ball. On the 23rd, by dint of persuasion and re- monstrance, the Indians were at length induced to withdraw towards Kasbah Lake — a day's jour- ney to the northward, where we knew that at this period a good spring fishery commences. Scarcely had they been off a few hours, wlien one of the old men was seen returning in great haste. He began vociferating long before he came up to us, his violent gestures denoting some terrible calamity. When sufficiently near to comprehend his harangue, the first words we heard were, " They are all dead ! Blacky (a young hunter) is blown up with gunpowder, and his little brothers are dead also!" and he renewed his clamour. We had at the house a smart, industrious lad, abont fourteen years of age — a I 1 •, I Ui 330 WINTER TRANSACTIONS brother of JNIaccaconce — employed as an assist- ant to our fisherman. "The old man does not lament hard enough," said the youth, "for any one to have died ; I '11 go and see." lie found the Indians about three miles off, all alive and well; our friend Blacky having but slightly scorched his hands. The foolish fellow had laid some gunpow- der — fortunately a small quantity — in an untied handkerchief between his legs, and, with cha- racteristic Indian apathy, began striking fire with his steel and flint, to light the eternal pipe. To us it would scarcely seem necessary to call in the aid of superstition to account for what followed ; a spark flew into the powder, and it exploded : but the old man, as if pursued by all the demons, set ofi* for the fort, to bring us the dreadful news ! It is a general rule among the traders, not to believe the Jirsf story of an Indian. He will tell you, on arriving, that there are no deer, and afterwards acknowledge them to be nume- rous : that he has been starving, when he has been living in abundance : that certain indivi- duals are dead; yet, after he has smoked his pipe and eaten his fill, ask him what is the matter with these same persons, and he will describe some trifling ailments, a surfeit i)er- haps ; for though, at times, these people endure with fortitude, the least sickness makes them ^^H \^: I % OF 1838-39. 337 say, " I am going to die ! " — a trait that also ex- tends to their half-breed descendants. Another striking instance of the native pas- sion for bad news occurred this month. One of the old women, already mentioned as our con- stant house pensioners, had a daughter, and a son-in-law called " Le Grand Blanc," in a camp not very distant. Two old men from that camp, having visited the fort, told Grand Blanc and his wife, on their return, that their mother was dead, after having eaten her deer-skin robe ! The pair immediately began grieving and wail- ing, and repaired to the fort. They found the old beldame highly indignant at her reported death. " Yes," said she, " had I remained with you, I should have been stift' enough by this time; but the whites have acted the part of rela- tions towards me : I have never wanted for meat, or fire, or water; they have provided all that for me. And look at my robe, have I eaten it; don't you see it is as good as ever ? " I do not mean to accuse the two old tattlers of any malicious intention in what they said. It never entered into their minds that such a story re- flected upon our character ; for this simple reason, that they would themselves have acted the unfeeling part they attributed to us, with very slight compunction. z i 338 WINTER TRANSACTIONS :H I have now (Iclailod tlic moans by wliicli wo contrived to subsist during throe-fourths of the year, the most important and enn^rossin^: care of an Arctics resifknit, but which has littk^ to attract or interest the reader. As to tlie weather, it was extremely backward ; tlie thermo- meter in the sweet month of May was as low as — 15°, and the mean temperature of the whole month was 7^° of frost, with frequent gales and snow. Not a drop of water appeared any- where, and on the open lake the snow was so hard frozen as to afford excellent walking without snow-shoes. On the 28th our express-men returned from Fort Norman. Their outward journey, across Great Bear Lake, had been favourable, and they reached Fort Franklin on the Gth. There they found a wonderful change. The upper part of Bear Lake River was open, the willows had be- gun to bud, and all the small streams from thence to Fort Norman were swollen to such a degree, that the journey through the woods, though not exceeding fifty miles of direct dis- tance, occupied a week ; during the greater part of which they were without food, and endured incredible misery, not the least part of which was, that, though wild fowl were numerous in every swamp and pond, they were unable to pro- « I > } ^, 1^ '■ I- OF 1838-39. :]:]}) % cure finy, from having imprudently wasted tlioir ammunition during the passage of the lake, Mhiist they yvt had provisions in abundance. The ice on the MackeTizio had made its first move at Fort Norman on the Gth, but stopped again ; and they crossed it on the morning of the IStli, a few hours before its final liberation. After a halt of four or five days, while the ice continued driving, they commenced their return, liad to carry everything on their backs to Great Bear Lake, and to cross the various streams, as before, on rafts. Arrived at the lake, they found the ice covered with water, and the journey consequently very bad, as far as " the Bay of tlie Deer Pass ;" where they re-entered the realm of winter, and from whence they travelled very rapidly, with their dogs, over the hard dry sur- face of the snow. Thus, while at Fort Norman — scarcely two hundred and fifty miles to the south-west — Mackenzie River was broken up, vegetation had made some progress, and Mr. M'Boath was dressing his garden, perfect win- ter still reigned at Fort Confidence ; a very striking proof of the great disparity in climate between a woody and a barren country. With June came a change, sudden, delightful, and complete. The frosts almost entirely ceased ; the temperature at mid-day attained from 40" z 2 A I I I J ' i t 340 WINV" TRANS ACTIONS to 70° in the sbatits the snow ilisappcarod, ns tliougli by magic, from the surface of the ice and of the ground, forming many brooks and rills of water ; the willows timidly put forth their buds, and the woods grew vocal with the voice of song. Even in the remotest corners of creation, nature has its notes of praise to Ilim who sustains the whole. On the first day of the month I measured the ice in the strait to the eastward, where our nets were set. It was still five feet thick, but in these narrow parts was rapidly undermined by the current caused by Dease River, which broke up on the 3rd. The change of weather brought a few Indians from the eastward with a little meat, and others, from different quarters, begging for provisions. In fact, throughout the entire season, a large proportion of our purchases from one set of na- tives always went in charity to another. The fisb now began to come forth from the depths of the lake, and resort to the mouths of streams, where nets and lines were employed by ourselves and the natives for our daily subsistence. The unwonted fine weather seemed to animate all. Our men and the natives played at ball, and other out-of-door games. In the evening Mr. Dease's violin was oftener heard than during the J « 1 J OF lH3H-;39. 341 as ce lul til ho jrs to rst ho ct. [)W mt on ms ?rs, IIS. rge na- ^ho ths ms, ves rho all. md Vfr. the loiip^ dreary winter, and to its enlivening strains the Indian youths danced and capered in the iiall. With renovated hojies and tliankful hearts wo prepared to try our fortune a third time on tht? Polar Sea. 11 342 SECOND DESCENT i CHAPTER XIV. 'It Second Descent of the Coppermine. — Interviews with Esqui- maux. — Passage of Coronation Gulph, and arrival on new ground. Our excellent assistant Ritch was left this summer, as usual, in charge of Fort Confidence, assisted by Felix and JMorrison, two men spe- cially selected for this important duty, on ac- count of their steady, industrious habits. On the 15th of June the remainder of the party set out on foot for the Coppermine River. The journey was pleasant enough; for, except a little snow one day, and plenty of rain an- other, we enjoyed fine weather, besides a pic-nic party regularly every morning and evening. We crossed mountains, swamps, streams, and frozen lakes; shot two or three deer, and — ate them; and, finding the rapid Kendall flooded, passed over on a raft, and on the 19th had the hap- piness to find the three men left in charge of our boats and baggage safe and well. They informed V i I OF THE COPPERMINE. 343 'i % US that the ice had ceased driving down the Coppermine on the IGth, ten days earlier than last year ; and, being sensible of an equal dif- ference in the progress of vegetation, mutual felicitations passed on the brightness of our pre- sent prospects. The next two days being very bad and boisterous, all we could do was to get the boats ready, and settle other arrangements. Our crews having undergone several changes, it may be as well here to name them over again. 1. James M'Kay, Steersman. 2. George Sinclair, Ditto. 3. Laurent Cartier, Bowman. 4. James Hope, Ditto. 5. Ooligbuck (Esquimaux Interpreter), Middleman. 6. George Flett, Ditto. 7. Charles Begg, Ditto. 8. William M'Donald, Ditto. 9. John M'Key, Ditto. 10. John Norquay, Ditto. 11. Larocque, 12- Maccaconce, i Hare Indians. On the 22nd we ran down to the Bloody Fall, witliout stopping to make a single portage; making, in fact, light of the rapids, which the falling of the river rendered much less formid- able than on the same day of the previous year, though some of them did not fail to initiate our new hands, by poviring a few harmless waves into the boats. The descent occui)ied nearly .1 I ^ r 344 SECOND DESCENT eleven hours, the windings of the river greatly increasing the actual distance. Our deposit of provisions in the cleft of the rock was un- touched by man or beast; but slightly affected by damp, though not nearly to the extent — one half — for which, in arranging our commissariat, we had made allowance. The rudders, masts, &ic. were found safe on the islet below. The sea-ice being still perfectly solid, it was resolved to remain a few days at the Bloody Fall, to afford me an opportunity of exploring Richard- son River, discovered and named by us in 1838 ; this indeed was our chief reason for descending the Cojjpermine so early. On JMonday, the 24th, I set out with the Esqui- maux interpreter and four others, and fell upon the river at the end of seven miles in a west- north-west direction. Some stout willows grow upon its banks, but it is totally destitute of wood. The masses of drift ice and deep furrows in the mud shewed that there had been an inundation of not less than thirty feet perpendicular at the re- cent breaking up ; but since then its waters had fallen with great rapidity, and were still veiy nmddy. From thence to the bottom of Back's Inlet, into which, as I rightly conjectured last year, the Richardson falls, is a distance of only eight miles. We camo in view of the inlet from "^S OF THE COPPERMINE. 345 the top of a range of rocks; and at the same moment perceived at some distance three tents of Ew attract suspicion. I '," 34G INTERVIEWS WITH ESQUIMAUX. an elderly man, named Awallook, who went on crutches from a dislocated joint; a fine young- lad, his son ; and a very stout man, about six feet high, with brown beard, and a countenance that would have been noble, were it not disfigured by a hideous wen on the temple. Notwithstand- ing Ooligbuck's assurances, they approached us with fear and trembling ; and the first words they uttered were, " We are afraid." We caused them to sit down, and made them what little presents we could spare, and offered them some of our own fare — pemican — which they tasted, but immediately rejected as disagreeable to their palates ; though they told us, at the same time, that they were badly off for food. Though the evening wno very cold, they declined drawing close to our fire of drift wood ; it would, indeed, have been contrary to their habits, for, from cus- tom or necessity, these eastern Esquimaux never seem to tliink of fire as a means of imparting warmth. If these poor people were not far mi ire industrious, provident, and ingenious than the In- dian tribes of the interior, tliey could not exist in their bleak and barren country. The information they could give us regarding the coast and inland country amounted to little or nothing ; the limits of their annual journeys being Berens' Isles, where they always pass the winter seal-huntin--, I \i INTERVIEWS WITH ESQUIMAUX. 347 and the banks of Richardson River, to which they resort every summer to kill reindeer. When asked if their river did not, like the Coppermine, abound in fish, they said they had no nets, and indeed appeared poor enough ; yet, for each ar- ticle we gave them, they immediately offered something in return, which was generally de- clined. On being questioned, Awallook told us that he had heard there were Esquimaux far west who wore labrets, but that he had never seen any himself; that he had never heard of Great Bear Lake ; that none of his tribe had been killed by Indians in his time, but that he had been told by his father of the massacre at the Bloody Fall. He soon remarked, from their darker complexions, that two of my companions, Hope and Larocque, were Indians ; and the slender, agile figure of the latter was strikingly contrasted with the square, rugged forms of these natives of the sea. It seemed as if, on the northern confines of a new continent, I had together before me descendants of the nomadic Tartar and the sea-roving Scan- dinavian, two of the most dissimilar and widely separate races of the ancient world. A goose happening to fly past, I thoughtlessly fired, and the bird fell splash into the river ; at the same moment that the Esquimaux — the two younger : il $ ' ^ i / I »% 348 IiNTERVIEV;S WITH ESQUIMAUX. ones at least — tumbled over on their backs, startled at the strange and terrible phenomenon. Ooligbuek informed me that the dialect of these people differs considerably from his own (the Churchill) ; and that, though he understood them well enough, they had much difficulty in com- prehending him, partly, I think, owing to their fears. He readily obtained permission to go and pass the niglu. with his friends on the island, and enjoy Esquimaux hospitality. Old Awallook, it appeared, had two wives ; but the young man's wife and three children were among the run- aways. A score of persons flying at the sight of a single man, though a broad river flo»ved be- tween, gives a most contemptible idea of their courage. The mouth of Richardson River was ascertained by observation to be in lat. G7" 53' 57" N., long. 115° 56' W., variation 52° 10' E. Next day, on being rejoined by the Esqui- maux, we walked up the river together ; and, as we arrived opposite the lodge, two more men came in sight, paddling down the stream. Upon my sending one of their countrymen out to them, they ventured ashore, — a middle-aged man, and a fine frank young fellow, his nephew. The un- cle ])roved quite a jolly character ; and on La- rocque's giving them a specimen of the Hare In- dian dance, to set them a-going, he alone could INTERVIEWS WITTT FSO '^MAUX. 340 ' backs, 3menon. Df these vn (the Dd them in com- bo their go and md, and look, it ^ man's he run- sight of v^ed be- 5f their v^er was 53' 57" Esqui- and, as e men Upon them, an, and rhe lui- oi) La- are In- 3 could bo prevailed on to return the courtesy. In the course of the day T despatched these new-comers to the Bloody Fall with Ooligbuck, the others being still too apprehensive to undertake the visit. Mr. Dease afterwards told me, that, though received with the greatest kindness, they for some time felt uneasy among so many strangers. He took them into his tent, and gave them food to eat. A small piece was first broken off, as a sacrifice or oblation ; and the remainder made the circuit of their faces before passing into their mouths. The senior took Mr. Dease's measure for a pair of boots, in a manner that would not disparage a son of Crispin ; and promised to be at the mouth of the Coppermine in the fall, to de- liver them personally. Maccaconce was never so proud in his life as when the young Esquimaux consented to sleep side by side with him in the same tent. My own Indian companion, La- rocque, had already made strict friendship with old A wallook's son ; and thus, as far as lay in our power, wtis the Company's desire of pro- moting peace and amity between the rival races accomplished. There being now four kayaks disposable, for these people have no oomiaks or family canoes, we lashed them tog^t^thor two and two, and, in- finitely to the delight and amusement of the f , 350 INTERVIEWS WITH ESQUIMAUX. i 'J ' } 12 jmrty, paddled ourselves across the stream in true Esquimaux style to visit the lodf^c on the island. We found in it Awallook's two wives, so terri- fied that they dared not look u]i, but uttered, as we entered, some piteous words, meaninof " Have mercy, have mercy on us !" Their deer- skin tent was so small that a man could barely sit upright. Their effects were all tied up, ready for flight ; and one or two little children, stowed in behind the packages, disclosed their hiding- place by crying and sobbing. After presenting the ladies with some bright buttons cut off our clothes, and patting their fine dogs, which were far handsomer than themselves, we recrossed the river. Before taking leave of these timid people, I may remark that the men were quite equal to Europeans in stature, broad-chested and full- fleshed. They were comfortably dressed in deer- skins, the upper garment terminating in a tail, which in one instance closely resembled in shape that of an English dress-coat ! the others were rounded off at the lower corners. Narrow strips of deerskin bound their short black hair, and they had no tonsure. They wore very curious to know what strange animals produced our various coloured clothing, and seemed much interested when I desired Ooligbuck to explain to them that they were jiartly made of the hair of an ani- INTERVIEWS WITH ESQUIMAUX. nr)i I mill, much smaller than the reimlccu*, spun into thread and then wove, and partly of a kind of long ora,ss manufactured in the same manner. We then reascended the Richardson, which, at a short distance beyond where wo first fell upon it, turns away westward, flowing in a wide chan- nel, with an almost imperceptible current, through a long i)lain bordered on either hand by a range of rocky hills, that slope gradually from the north, and shew an abrupt front to the south, — the gene- ral character of both mainland and highland ele- vations along this coast. The clayey plain and banks of the river are gashed by numerous ra- vines, serving as so many ducts to swell the in- undation when the snow dissolves on the moun- tains, and were at this time so miry, that, in crossing them, we often sank over the knees in the tenacious mud. On the 26th I continued the ascent of the river, till it separated into two branches ; the principal one, as far as it could be traced, main- taining its westerly direction between the op- posed lines of hills, which, at the distance of twenty or thirty miles, seemed to clasp each other, and from that junction the tranquil stream must change into a mountain torrent. Then re- tracing our steps in a direct line to the boats, and indulging by the way in a few " f'.^ing shots'" , . ' I 352 PASSAGE OF l« I H ! at (leer, wc reached tlie Bloody Fall in the course of the nip^lit. The follo\viii!»: day wm s})ent by the whole party in tlie unwonted anuiscnient of angling. The setting-poles were converted into ponderous fish- ing-rods, and with h ioks baited with pieces of fat meat, or fish, we succeeded in taking several Arctic or Ilearne's salmon in the boiling eddies at the foot of the fall. This surprised me, for I had hardly ever heard, whilst pursuing this favourite sport at home, of the common salmon being cap- tured with bait, except when out of season. On the 28th we descended to the island lying just without the mouth of the Coppermine, where we halted until the 8rd of July, when the first slight opening in the ice took place. A single net, set in a narrow channel that a man might almost wade across, furnished more salmon than the whole party could consume. None of these fish exceeded twelve or fifteen pounds in weight, and the largest measured exactly three feet from the snout to the tip of the tail. They seemed to me not at all inferior in flavour to the salmon of our Scottish waters. Ooligbuck and Sinclair went to the river to the eastward, where the latter saw Esquimaux last year. On the banks of a lake some distance beyond it they found eight tents, containing six- in \ ■f Ai. I CORONATION GULPII. 353 Ife' icon men, atul about sixty persons In all; moat of whom took to tlioir heels at first, but by-and-by returneil, au ^ <<^/^ '•^■'^ ^' ! 1 f i u 354 PASSAGE Ol' III happy omen to rally the spirits of our Indian com- panions, M'hich were depressed by an evil dream that had visited one of them. He saw, in his vision, flames issuing from the mouth of a rude monumental figure of stones, erected by our peo- ple at a i)lace where the ice detained us several days, and consuming himself with the rest of the party. When the clif!' broke down, " Ilark," I exclaimed, " the demon that troubled yoU has fallen !" After this we heard no more about him. It would have been in vain to attempt reason- ing down their superstitious belief in dreams. Even the white men of our crews believed in ghosts, witchcraft, second-sight, and other similar absurdities ; and nothing would induce our steers- man M'Kay, though otherwise a bold fellow, to pass a single night alone. From the rugged heights of Cape Barrow we beheld, with equal astonishment and delight, the wide extent of Coronation (Julph j)artially open, whereas long after this period the year before the whole party might have crossed it on foot ! He- sides the inferior severity of the preceding winter, the present summer was considerably warmer than that of 1838, which satisfactorily accounts for the wonderful difTerence in the state of the ice. I'he only drawback to our enjoyment of this improved aspect of affairs was the swarms of muscputoes I CORONATION GULPIl. 355 i that arose wherever we landed, even from the stony beaches and naked rocks; but tlio gales and cold nights soon delivered us from this short- lived nuisance. As to the natives, their caches of blubber, sledges, &c. occupied the very same situations as last year; but they themselves had all passed inland for the summer reindeer hunt. As nearly as we could reckon, the whole popu- lation from Richardson River to Cape Barrow may comprehend about fifty tents, containing from three to four hundred souls, of whom not more than one-fourth were seen by us, as already related. I obtained satisfactory observations at Cape BaiTow for the dip of the needle, which proved to be 87° 13' N. With the benefit of strong winds, and the fa- cilities afforded by the extensive groupe of Wil- mot Islands for evading the principal streams of ice, we safely traversed the broad inlet, and on the 20th supped at Boathaven, the place of our former weary detention. The wind here blowing very fresh off the land, we ran up to Cape Frank- lin, which we reached soon after midnight, just one month earlier than my arrival at the same spot with my pedestrian party in 1838 ; and instead of the grand strait between the conti- nent and Victoria Land being covered with an unbroken sheet of ice, as it then was, we now 2 A 2 j< -^ — — r 11 I I' 350 PASSAGE OF found an open channel, nearly two miles wide, extending- along the main shore. The slopes and plains too wore a greener and more cheerful as]>ect, and the ground was comparatively dry. Besides mosses and dwarf carices, were to be seen flowers of various hues, wild sorrel, and an abundance of the Labrador tea-plant {ledum palmtre)^ of very diminutive growth, but at this time covered with fragrant white blossoms. These yield a beverage less bitter and of a more delicate flavour than the plant itself. For the next four days our progress was arrested by a violent easterly g.ale, which filled our tents and food with drift sand ; but we had the gratification of witnessing the tail of a large body of ice arrive nearly abreast of our encam))- ment, leaving before us a glorious expanse of water, now covered with foam. On the 26th we again encountered the ice at Point Edwards, and encamped the same even- ing at Cape Alexander, alongside of much heavier masses than any we had yet seen, which in the rapid tideway had nearly crushed the boats against the rocks. In 1838, a month later, we found the strait of Victoria Land blocked up, and the sea to the eastward open ; the case was now reversed. It was, however, no little satis- faction to us to observe once more two rejrular II 14 \ \ ^. CORONATION GULPII. 3i>7 daily tides. It was higli-water to-day at noon; the flood came from the westward, but did not exceed two feet; and it was the day of full moon. The hours of the tide at Cape Alexan- der throughout the year, therefore, correspond with those at Point Barrow, fifty degrees of lon- gitude to the westward. The soundings in the strait near the land had augmented from four fathoms at Cape Franklin to eighteen at Cape Alexander. The water was thoroughly salt and beautifully clear, the bottom consisting of sand or stones. Its temperature four feet below the surface was 35", while that of the air at mid- day was 56°. As a substitute for drift wood, of which I well knew from last year's experi- ence that we were no longer to expect any, we now began to use dry seaweed and dwarf wil- lows, which, while the weather continued tem- perate, answered sufficiently well. The dip of the needle at Cape Alexander was 88° 15', shew- ing a great stride towards the magnetic pole. On the 27tli we advanced four or five miles, in imminent peril of being carried away by the driving ice ; and it was noon of the following day before we were able, by the aid of the tide, to get round Trap Cape, when we found a lane of water leading along the shore to the extreme point of my progress the previous year. The )< 'I 358 ARRIVAL ON NEW GROUND. top of tlio cairn erected there had faUen, having been built of round stones : but we only stopped to ^ot sights for the watch, and to raise our l)ortable canoe out of the sand ; which done, we once more entered ui)on ground never yet trod- den by civilized man. Since Point Turnagain, the only indications of man we had observed were some graves, with arrows and other imple- ments. As for our deer and seal hunts, and other exploits of " venerie," I shall pass them over entirely, as they were now become mere matters of course, while our whole thoughts were bent upon subjects of far higher interest. The only fact in natural history worth recording was, that the largo white-backed ducks, of which we had seen none eastward of the Coppermine in 1838, this season extended their range to Cape Alexander ; probably because they now found what was then wanting — an edging of open water betwixt the ice and shore, which it is their de- light to skim along. \ H' yoo CHAPTER XV. Stu|)end()us bay, broken into minor bays, and bordered by countless islands. — Discovery of the Strait of Boothia. — Back's Point Ogle doubled in a fog. — Deposit found on Montreal Island. — Cape Britannia, and discoveries to the eastward. — Progress arrested by gales. — Return. — Nearest approach to Ross's I'illar and the Magnetic Pole. — South- ern shores of Boothia and Victoria l.and explored. — Passage of a magnificent strait. — Winter sets in. — Re-entry of the Coppermine River. Our course was first directed to the highest island of the Miiito groupe seen by me the pre- vious season, from whence we now obtained a commanding prospect of the bold rocky indented shores, running away much farther southward than I could have anticipated, and skirted by numerous islands. I at the same time discovered, that what I had before taken for the opposite side of the great bay that so aptly bounded our l)edestrian journey, was only the outer end of a very large island, which afterwards formed a pro- minent object for several days, and was distin- guished by the name of the prime minister of FT ^-»7 , ^ i 1 \ ■ J f ■A I I 1 ' I ? 1 300 STUPENDOUS BAY. England, Viscount Melbourne. Our first en- campment was near a very bluff rocky cai)e, tlmt afforded another extensive view, an STlJPKNnOUS HAY. strouni. It falls into tlio son in lat. (IH" *2' N., hmuf. 104 liV W., and was iianiod after tlic l{i