IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /.5^:4^^ 1.0 I.I |50 "^ !«■ •^ liii 1 2.2 us 1^ 1-25 1 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► 0% $h '/a / Photographic Sciences Corporation ■^ 4 k •N? l\^ ^ A \ \ 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WHSTIII,N.Y. MSIO (71«) •73-4it03 4^ \ ifi CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques I Technical and Bibliographic Notaa/Notas tachniquaa at bibliographlquaa Tha Inatituta haa attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy avallabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy which may ba bSbliographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imat^^M in tha raproduction, or which may algnlficantly changa tha uaual mathod of filming, ara chaclcaci balow. D Colourad covara/ Couvartura da coulaur rn Covara damagad/ n D n D Couvartura andommagAa Covara raatorad and/or laminatad/ Couvartura raataurAa at/ou palliculAa r~n Covar titia miaaing/ La titra da couvartura manqua |~n Colourad mapa/ Cartaa g*o»!lniK'' ro SAN FRANCISCO BAY FaceTuie 1 .ON OON , .TnsM lim-x' * (k cies. The deficiences will be supplied as opportunity offers, as new ports are opened, and as the increasing traffic of the older ports improves, — as changes resulting alike from physical and human causes occur. the present (third) edition of this Work has been enlarged, revised and corrected up to date by ]\[r. Iloury D. Joiikins. J. F. I. Dec. 1880.- AUTHORirrES. The following are some of the publications oonsnlted io the compilation of thi9 Work:— . South American Pilot. Vol. 2. Dampier'a Voyages. 4 vols. Voyages and Travels by Captain Basil Hall, R.N. Central America; describing the States of Guatemala, Honduras, Salvador, Nica- ragua and Costa Rica, the natural features, &c., by John Baily, 1850. Remarks on the Navigation of the coasts between San Francisco and Panama, by W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871. The Isthmus of Tehuantepec : being the results of a survey for a railroad, &c., to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, by J. J. Williams, principal assistant engineer. A voyage round the world in the years 1740-4, comtnanded by Lord Anson. Com- piled from his papers and materials by Richard Walter. Travels ifi Mexico by Lient. Hardy, R.N., 1826. Report of the reconnaissance of the Gulf of California and Colorado river, made in 1850-61. By Lieut. Geo. H. Derby, U.S. Navy. Remarks of Commander George Dewey, tJ.S.N., on the coasts of Lower California and Mezioo, 1874. Reports of the Itnited States Coast Survey, presented to Congress to 1875. Coast Pilot of California, Oregon, Washington territory. By George Davidson^ ot U.S. Coast Sorvey, 1869. Coast Pilot of Alaska, Part first, from Southern Botilidary to Cook's Inlet. By George Davidson, of U.S. Coast Survey, 1869. Vancouver Island Pilot. Nautical Magazines to 1880. Annales hydrographiques to 1880i . Narrative of an Exploring Expedition to the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean, by Captain Charles Wilks, U.S. Navy, 5 vols. AUTHORITIES. T. Surreys of portions of the coast of California in the vicinity of San Fraiicisoo bay, b^ Gommander Oadwalader Ringgold, U.S. Navy, 1852. Narrative of a voyage round the World performed in H.M.S. Sulphur, during the years 1886-42, by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, R.N. Narrative of a voyage to the Pacific performed in H.M.S. Blossom, under the com- mand of Captain F. W. Beechey, R.N., F.li.S., in the years 1825-28. Voyage of discovery to the North Pacific Ocean and round the World, performed in the year 1790-95 by Captain George Vancouver, R.N. A voyage to the South Atlantic and round Cape Horn into the Pacific Ocean, &c. By James Colnett, R.N., 1792-4. Reconnaissance hydrographique des cdtes ocoidentales du Centre Ameriqne, executee par la corvette La BrilUante, sous le commaudement de M. T. de Lapel>a, 185:2<. Instructions Nautiques snr les cotes ouest du Centre Amerique et dn Mexiqae,. redigees d'apres les travaux de M. le Contro-Amiral de Lapelin, &c. Far M. A.. Pailhcs, Lieutenant de vaisseau, 1879. Renseignements sur le Centre Amerique recueillis pendant le voyage de La Melanie,, 1828', par A. Maire, capitaine an long cours. Reconnaissance hydrographique des cotes occideutales du Centre Amerique, province de Veraguas (Nouvelle Grenade) par M. de Rosencoat, capitaine de firegate, com- mandant L'Obligado, en 1854. Exploration du territoire de I'Oregon, des Californies et de la mer Vermeille executee pendant les annees 1840, 1841 et 1842, par M. Duflot do Mofras, attache a la Legation de France a Mexique. Voyage autour du monde, sur la fregate Ln Venus, commundee par Abel du Petit- Thouars. Par C. de Tessan. Gran Almanaque Mexicano y Directorio del Comercio, 1867. The Alta California, Almanac and book of facts for 1880. Tenueut's Nautical Almanac, Tide Register for the Pacific coast and Marine Digest; ^r 1880. Published at San Francisco. Numerous "Notices to Mariners" and Charts issued by the Governments of the 'Suited States, Great Britain and France. CONTENTS. General Reuabks on Gentbal America — ' Guatemala, San Salvador 2 ; Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Kica B ; lakes and mnustAins 4 ; products 5. fjlULF OF PaNAhJJA Cape Conientes 6 ; Cabita bay, Utria, Solano bay 7 ; Cupica bay, Octavia bay, Pinas bay 8 ; Garachine bay, San Miguel bay 9 ; Darien harbour, Tuyra and Savana rivers 11 ; Trinidad river, Chiman river, Pelado island 12 ; Chepillo island, Cbepo river, Panama 13 ; Perico and Flamenco islands, &c 17 ; Taboga island, Urava, Taboguillo 18 ; Chame bay 19 ; Otoque and Bona islands, Parita bay, cape Mala, Pearl islands 20 ; winds, currents, &c., in the gulf of Panama 24 ; passages to and from the gulf 25 — 26. pAPE MAI4A TO CaPB CoRRIENTES The Frailes, Montijo bay 27 ; Cebaco and Gobernador islands, Bahia Honda 28 ; Monita and Bosario bays 29 ; Pueblo Nuevo 80 ; San Lorenzo bay, David bay 82 ; Boca Chica, Parida island, point Burrica, Coiba island 85 ; Hirrarons, Bancberia, Contreras 87 ; Secas, Montuosa, Ladrones, gulf of Dalce 88 ; cape Matapalo 89 ; Punta Arcnltas 40 ; Golfito inlet 41 ; ppint Sal-si-pnedes 42 ; point Llorena, Cano island 48 ; point Mala de los ludios 44 ; point Ubita, point Quepos, &c. 46 ; port Herradura 46 ; gulf of Nicoya, Punta Arenas 47 ; cape Blanco 48 and 50; Culebra bay 51 ; Murcielagos islands, Elena bay, Salinas bay 52 ; San Juan del Sur 68 ; gulf of the Papagayos 54 ; Brito 55 ; Tamarinda, cape Desolada 56 ; Corinto or Realejo bay. Cordon island 58 ; Corinto 60 ; Manzana or False Cardon island 61 ; Speck reef. Mesa de Holland, point Poseguina 62 ; gulf of Fonseca, Estero Real, Playa Grande 63; Amapala point, La Union 64 ; Farallones, Manguera, &c. 66 ; Amapala 67 ; port Jiquilisco 69 ; river Lempa, Concordia, Libertad 71 ; point Remedios, Acs^utla 78 ; Istapa 76 ; San Jose 77 ; San Geronimo, Tecojate, San Louis 79 ; Champerico, Tonala bay, Tehauntepec lagoons 80 ; Yentosa bay 81 ; Salina Cruz 84 ; Saliua del Marques, Morro Ayuca, Guatulco 85 ; Sacriflcios, port Angeles 91 ; Mal- donado point 92 ; Dulce river, Acapulco 98 ; Sihuatanejo 97 ; Mamata, Manzauilla bay 100 ; cape Giaham 108 ; Navidad bay 104 ; Tenacatita bay, Perula bay 105 ; capo Corrientos 107. CONTENTS. ▼»• Capk Cobrientes to Mazatlan — Band«ras bay, Corralies 107 ; Ylapo barbonr, Penas village 108 ; point Mita, Tres Marietas, Corventena rock 109; San Bias 110; Isabel island, Maria islands 115 — 116; Santiago river, Asadero Sstero, Oamichin Estero, Boca Tecapan, Chamatla river 117 ; Barron river 118 ; Mazatlan 118 — 122. Gulf of Ca^ifornu — Gem:! remarks 128 — 126; Piastla river, Elota river, Boca Tavala, Guliaca.i .iver 127 ; Altata 128 ; Tlaya Colorado 129 ; Boca Navachista, Topol< bampo, point San Ignacio, San Iguacio Farallone 181 ; Abome river, .^n abamp^i Sant:\ Barbara bay 132; Claris and Lobos islands 188; Gnaymas 184 ; Ec 'enad^ de San Francisco 136 ; San Pedro point, San Pedro. Nolasco, San Pediu Martir, Eino bay, Pelican island, Tibnron island 137 ; cape Tepopa, Patos island, cape Lpbos, cape Tepoca, George island 188 ; Rooky and Sboal points, port Isabel, Coloraao river 189 ; San Felipe 148 ; Consag rock, San Lnis island, San Lnie Gonzales bay. Angel de la Gnardia, Puerto Befagio 144 ; Reinedios bay, Angeles bay, Las Animas bay, Sau linfael bay, San Gabi el point, San Lorenzo, &c. 145 ; cape San Miguel, Trinidad point, ca£)e Yirgenes 146 ; Sun Marcos island, San Lucas cove, Tortnga island, Santa Agueda point, Purgatorio 147 ; Santa Inez point, Mulege or Concepcion bay 148 ; Pulpito point. Mangle point 149 ; Coronados island, Loreto 150 ; Puuta Coyote, Car- men island, Salinas bay 151 ; Dunzaute island, Sau Marcial point, Santa Catalina island, Montserrate island, Nopolo point 152; Mechudo bead, San Josef island, Amort^jada bay, San Francisco iBland, Las Animas, San Diego island and Santa Cruz islands 153; Espiritu Santo inland, San Lorenzo chan- nel 154 ; La Paz bay, Pichilinque harbour. La Paz harbour 155 ; Yentaua bay, Ceralbo island 156; Muertos bay, Palmus bay, Sau Jose del Cabo bay 157; Palmia point, Cabeza Ballena, cape San Lucas 168; Sau Lucas bfiy 159. Qape San Lucas to Point Concepcion — • General remarks 160; La Tiuaja, San Pedro, Todos Santos, Santa Mnrina bay, Santa Margarita island 161; Magdalena bay 162; cape San Lazaro, point San Juanico, Ballenas bay 165; Asuncion bay, San Roque point, point Sn^n Pablo 167; San Pablo bay, San Cristobal bay, San Bartolome, Kelp point 168; point San Eugenio, Cerros island 169; San Benito islands 170; Nativi- dad island, Dewey channel, Sebastian Yisoaino bay 171 — 174 ; Lagoon head 172; Santa Rosalia bay, Playa Maria bay, Blanco point and bay 174; Sacra- mento reef, San Geronimo, Rosario bay 175; port San Quentin, San Martin inland 176; Sau Ramon bay, Colnett bay, Sauto Tomas anchorage (south of point Soledad), Todos Santos bay and islands 177; Descanso bay, Bouuiiary Monument (between Mexico and U.S.), Coronados islets 178; point Loma, Sau Diogo 179; False bay, San Luis Rev 182; San Juan Capistrauo, Auaheim point Fermin, Sail Pedro 188; Santa Anna lagoon 184; Monica bay, port Hueuemo, San Buenaventura 185; Santa Barbara 186; point Coucopciou 188. "TIU. Tqe Islands of Oalifobnix- CONTfJNTS, Cortez bank 190; San CIeinentel91 ; Santa Gaialina, Pandora cove, Baperbay 192 ; Santa Barbara ^island, San Nicolas, Begg rock, Anaoapa 108 ; Santa Cruz, Anacapa bay 194 ; Santa Rosa, Becber bay 196 ; San Migael, Cuyler harboar, Ricbardson rock, &c. 196. If Point Concepoion to .Point Reyes — Point Sal ancborage, San Lnis Obispo bay 197 ; Esteros bay 19S ; San Simeon bay, Piedras Blancas 199 ; Carmel bay 200 ; point Pinos, Monterey bay 201 ; Santa Oruz harboar 204 ; Santa Cruz point 205 : Pigeon point, Half-Moon bay 206 ; point San Pedro 207 ; San Fraucisco bay 208 — 217 ; point Bonita 208; point Lobos, Fort point 209 ; Golden Gate 210 ; Alcatraz island 211 ; Yerba Boena, Angel island, Saucelito 218 ; San Pablo bay. East Brother and Mare islands 214 ; Ballenas bay 217 ; Drake bay, point Reyes 218. The Farallones — South FaralloP. 219 ; Middle Farallon, North Farsllones 220; Noonday rock 221. Point Reyes to Cape Classet — Fort Ross, Haven anchorage, point Arena 224 ; Albion river, Mendocino bay 226 ; Shelter cove 226 ; cape Mendocino 227 ; cape Fortuno (False Mendo- cino), Eel river, Sugar Loaf or Haystack 228 ; Humboldt bay 229 ; Trinidad head 280 ; Trinidad bay 281 ; Redding rock, Klamath river, Croscont City bay 282 ; paint St. George, Crescent City rocks. Pelican bay 284 ; Ghet-ko cove, Mack reef 286 ; Rogues river, Roguc Point Bdyea -, South Farallon Point Arena Cape Mendocino Hamboldt Bay . . . Trinidad Head ; . . Crescent City . . . Cape Orford (Blanco) Cape Arago (Gregory) Yaquina Point (Head) Tillamook Bock . ^ Columbia River . . Bhoalwater Bay ^ . -, Cape Classet (Flattery) i Ediz Hook . . . . . New Diingeuess . i . Point Wilson .... Race Islands .... Esquimalt Harbour . . Victoria Harbour Smith Island . Admiralty Head Point No-Point Eraser River « Burrard Inlet . lITanaimo Harbour Cape Beale. » PAGE. Yerba Buena. Fixed; visible 15 miles. Fog- whistle 218 On E. Brother island. Flashes every 80 seconds ; visible 18 miles. Fog-trumpet .... 214 On Mare island. Fur^e^ ; visible 14 miles. Fog-bell 214 Flashes, every 5 seconds ; visible 14 miles. Fog- whistle .219 Flashes every minute ; visible 26 tuiles. Fog-siren 220 Fixed; visible 19 miles. Fog-whistle . . . 224 Revolves (flash 15 seconds, eclipse 15 seconds) ; visible 27 miles 228 Fixed; visible 12 miles. Fog- whistle . . . 229 Fixed [flash red every minute) ; visible 17 miles 281 Fixed {flash every 1^ minutes); visible l5 miles 2B8 Fixed; visible 28 miles ...*.;.. 288 Fixdd {flash every 2 minutes); visible 15 miles . 240 Fixed; visible 19 miles. {See Addenda) . . 245 Light intended 251 On point Adams. Flashes (red and white j ; visible 16 miles; Fog- whistle . . . . ; 252 On cape Disappointment. Fixed; visible 22 miles. Fog-bell ........ i 258 On Toke point. Fixed {flash every 2 minutes) j visible 14 miles ......... 260 On Tatoosh island. Fixed, visible 20 miles. Steam fog-whistle 268 Fixed; visible 12 miles . 280 Fixid; visible 14 miles. Steam fog-whistle . 282 Fixed; visible 12 miles. Steam fog-whistle . 285 Flashes every 10 seconds ; visible 18 miles. Fog-bell 290 On Fisgard island. Fixed {white and red sectors) ; visible 10 miles 291 On Berens island. A small blue light . . . 298 Revolves every half-minute ; visible 15 miles . . 299 Fixed ; visible 17 miles 803 Fixed; visible 10 miles 804 Lightvessel at onti'aL'^e. Fixed; visible 11 miles 824 On point Atkinson. Revolves every minute ; visible 15 miles 828 On Entrance island. Fixed ; visible 14 miles . 881 Revolves every 80 sooonds ; visible 19 miles . . 834 ADDENDA; During the progress of this Work through the press the ToUbwibg corrections aiid ia'dditions became necessary : — ixon. — The population of the city of Leon is about 85,000 not 8500 as given in text. Page 60. ^jk linxoti. — The lighi at Lia Union, San Salvador, is located on the end of the wharf, and not on the Comtnandaut's house. Page 05. jiaxAPAXiA. —A white bn6y how guards the shoal situated 4 cables north-west of t)ie borth-west point of Tigre inland. Page 68. jBMPA bboal. — The following information relating to a shoal on tliis coast ot Salvador, known as Lempa shoal, and considered doubtful as regards its position, has been received by the U.S. Hydrographic' Office from Commander J. W. Philip, U.S.N., commanding U.S.S. Tuscaroru, (1880) : — This shoal (centre) lies in lat. 13° 7' and long. 88° 80'*, and forms a bar off the mouth of Jigdlisco bay. It extends in the form of a horse-shoe across the mouth of the ba^, from side to side, and its outei: edge or bend lies about 4 miles from the beach. At high water in calm weather, or with light hreezc's, the bar is perfectly Smooth, but at all other tidies the sea breaks heavily all over the shoal. The following bearings were taken from the Tuscarora just outside the breakers : — San Mlgud voltfano N. 28" E. ; San Vincente volcano N. 48° W. ; San Salvador Volcano N. 56° W. Pilge '69. KA2ATXUkN. — A lighthouse has recently been ei'ccted on Ureston island at the «htrance to the bay of Mazatlan ; it exhibits n fixed white light, visible 20 miles. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 23" 10' 36", long'. 100°'27'. Page 118. AMO MVBiro i8i:.Aito. — The fog-siguul at Ano Nuovo island, in lat. 37° 0' 42", long. 122° 10' 61" has been altered in character. In future it will give a blast of 10 seconds duration, followed by an interval of 65 seconds. Page 206. •OUYB FABAl^LON. — A steam-siren has been established at a station about 200 yards S. 81° E. from the lighthouse on South Farallon. During fog it will be sounded for 6 seconds at I'ntevvals of 46 seconds. Piige 220. TiBiBBK ovtibH. — Gommtinder W. Coffin, U.B.S. TJassIer, reports a dangerous patch of foul ground off the entrance of Timber gulch, 2^ miles E'.S.E. effort Boss, California. The patch lies irtim One-half to three-quarters of a mile from the shore, and contains *' AflohrdiViR to this InnKitudo nf tho shoal, lliu Appniximuto positit^n uf Port JlgafliBoo gitou iu text ii about I'i niiinitoB too far oast. ADDENDA. XV several rocky heads — one nearly awash at low water, others with from 8 to 15 feet water, with 4 tb 6 &thoms between them, and 9 fathoms close at hand, ontside. At the tinle of thte survtey, October 1879, kelp, extending out from the shore, covered the #dstiammost half of the patch; tt is not often these rocks are marked by breakers^ their i&rea being small. Thirty fathoms of water are occasionally found in this vicinity within half a Diile of the rooks, and it is dangerous for vessels coasting to pass inside that depth. Page 228. TAiQViirA POZMT. — The latitude of Yaquina poiiit lighthouse given in t^xt is incorrect ; accdrding to the latest U.3. List of Lights it should be 44° 48' 80". Page 246. OOZiirasBZA xrvxH.-— The following information as to the state of the Coliinibia iriver bar is fikmished by Lloyd's Agents at Portland, Oi'egon, under date April 29th 1880, in consequence of a report having got abroad that the bar is shoaling : — There ai'e always ^6 feet at high water at this time, upon the shoalest parts of the bar of the Bouth channel ; and the bar being smooth, a vessel drawing 22^ feet Can cross out: This ohanilidl has been shoaling a little ; but these shoal areas, arising frdm sand lui{ipi^ of recent deposit, must wash out in the month of June, when the Columbia river will be much swolleti, or a nei^ opening must be formed, somewhat to the northwatd and west- ward of the piresent outlet. It is in consequence of this shoaling tha^ the North channel has been used more, pilots preferring to cross in smooth water the shoal eastward of B&nd island rather than cross the more exposed parts at the entrance of the South channel. Thd South channel is crooked, and a vessel is much longer iil going out than by the North channel. In the inside of the North channel there are always 22 feet at high water in the shoalest parts across the shoal east of Sand island, but during spring tides this depth is increased to from 22^- feet to 28 feet. To the north-eastward of this shoal to capei Disappointnienti following the line of the channel, there are from 26 feet to 28 feet. Farther seaward, along this channel, the water deepens rapidly to from 80 to 85 feeti nntil the bar proper is crossed. Note. — The latitudes of the lighthouses on point Adams and cape Disappointment giten in text are uncertain: according to the latest (1880) U.S. List of Lights the lat. of point Adams lighthouse is 46° 11' 86" and of oape Disappointment lighthouse 46° 16' 88". Page 258. 1ISQVZBIAZ.T BABBOvm.— Thetis cottage, one of the objects forming the leading fai&rk for entering Esquimalt harbour, has been demolished during recent heavy falls of toow. As a substitute a wooden beacon has been erected on Dyke point ; it is 281 feet above high water, pyramidal in shape and painted white. Note. — Dyke point beacon just open of, or in line with, the Western Inskip rock^ bearing K. by W. j> W>t leads in mid-channel to Esquimalt harbour< Page 291< l)eoember Ist, I88O1 U.P BUOYAGE* tn cohibirtaiity to the terms of the Adt of Congi'ess apjiroved SepteiUber 28th, 1850, prescribing the manner of colouring land numbering the buoys along the coasts and in the bays, sounds, rivers, and harbours of the United States, the following order must te observed, viz, : — 1. in approaching the channel, Sb6., from seaward, red buoys, with even numbers, will be ^oOnd on the starboard side of the channel, and must be left on the sMrboard hand in passing in. 2« Itt approaching the channelj &c., from seaward, black buoys, with odd numbira, will be found on the port side of the channel, and must be left on the pon hand in passing im 8. Buoys painted with red and black horizontal stripes will be found on obstruc- tions, with channel ways on either side of them, and may be left on either side in passing in^ 4. Buoys painted with whit* and black perpendicular stripes will be found in mid- ahannel, and must be passed olose-to, to avoid danger. 5. All other distinguishing marks to buoys will be in addition to the foregoing, and may be employed to mark particular spots. 6. Perches, with balls, cages, Sic., will, when placed on buoys, be at turning points, the Dolour and number indicating on what side they shall be passed. SAILING DIRECTIONS FOB THE WEST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA *** The Bearings and Courses throughout this Work are Magnetic. The Depths are those at low water spring tides. The Distances are in Nautical miles of 60 to a Degree of Latitude. The Nautical Mile is about 6086 English feet, ustially reckoned as 6000 = 2000 yards=1000 fathoms: also the Nautical Mile=1855 metres=V855 kilometres. N.B.—ka the Latitades in this work are North of the Equator, and the Longitudes are West of Greenwich, the distinctive letters N. and W. are smitted. GENERAL REMARKS ON CENTRAL AMERICA. Central America inclades all the territory lying between Mexico on the north, and the isthmap of Panama, on the south. In length 700 miles, and of very variable breadth, it nevertheless contains 164,900 English square miles. It has a population of about 2,600,000, about a quarter of whom are whites (creoles of European parentage), the remainder Indians and Mestizoes, of mixed descent. Situated in the torrid zone, between latitudes 8° and 18°, longitudes 81^° and 93°, it <>^ once separates the Atlantic from the Pacific ocean, and unites the continents of North and South America ; a position as important commercially, as it is geographically remarkable and unique. It includes the independent states of Guatemala, San Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua,* and Costa Rica, with the British colony of Belize, or British Honduras. It is bounded on the north by Mexico ; on the south-west by the Pacific ; and on the east by the Caribbean sea, and the bay of Honduras. * The Mosquito territory, formerly under Britisli protection, is now included in the state of Nicaragua. 2 CENTRAL AMERICA. I The five states of Central America nearly correspond, at the present time, with the " Intendencias," as they existed under Spanish Colonial rale. Their boundaries are pretty clearly defined, and vary but little. They are subdivided into departments, and districts ; the latter applying to the less peopled, though often extensive tracts, covered with almost impenetrable forests. Th« state of onatemaia includes a considerable and populous highland district to the south and west, while to the northward, vast territories, such as those of Yera Paz and El Peten, are but thinly inhabited. It has the largest population (nearly 1,200,000), and fiur sorpasses the other states in importance. Its trade, which is con- siderable, ia almost entirely confined to its port in the gulf of Honduras on the Atlantic side. The principal port on the Pacific coast is San Jose de Guatemala, which is an open roadstead of some importance. The exports are numerous, consisting chiefly of cotton, wheat, cocoa, sugar, cofiee, indigo, metals, mahogany, and cochineal. In 1678 the imports amounted to £619,000, and the exports to £900,000. Great efforts are being made to improve the agricultural resources of the country, which are naturally wonderfully rich, yet the wheat crop of 1878 failed, and the Government was forced to reduce the duty on imported grain by one-half. Coffee cultivation is being largely extended, and liberal terms are offered to immigrants to settle in the country and introduce permanent improvements in the way of irrigation works, roads, ice. Attempts are being made to open the oil deposits on the Atlantic coast in the neighbourhood of the Lampara and St. Vincent rivers. New Guatemala, the capital, is in lat. 14° 41', long. 90° 86' ; the old city was abandoned on account of earthquakes. New Guatemala, though a comparatively mean looking place of one storied houses, may on many accounts be considered as the prin- cipal town in Central America. It is situated on the border of one of the elevated plateaux of the main Cordillera, known as Los Llanos de las Vacas, (the valley of Harmita). This plain is surrounded by bold ranges of mountains, among which stand prominent the two lofty volcanoes of Ar/ua and Fuego, and a third known as El Volcan de Pacaya, ^hich is scarcely, if at all, inferior to them. The plain is about 6000 feet above the level of the sea, and is 15 miles wide and 18 broad. The climate, though considered inferior to that of Antigua or old Guatemala, is mild and salubrious. The thermometer rarely rises above 70° Fahr., and still more rarely descends below 64°. The number of inhabitants, who are chiefly Ladinos, the mixed or Mestizo race, and pure Creole Spaniards, the unmixed descendants of Spanish colonists, is estimated at 40,000 ; and in importance and wealth, it is second, in Spanish America, only to the city of Mexico. Tb* State of San Salvador is situated on the western coast. Its climate is hot, but more healthy than that on the eastern shores — perhaps because the land is better cleared and cultivated. The chief products of this state are indigo, coffee, sugar, and tobacco. The city of San Salvador, 'ts capital, only a few miles distant from the Pacific ocean, was nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1854, prior to which it con- tained 20,000 inhabitants ; but it is now reviving ; daring a short period it was the seat of the Federal Union, and like Washingtoti, it had at that time a certain territory around the city, distinguished as the Federal District. Cojjatepeqae is an important III CENTRAL AMERICA. town with 15,000 inhabitants, and Sonsonate with 10,000 inhabitants is famous foritd distilleries. The principal seaports are La Union, Acajatia, and Libertad ; the first named is a fine harbour, but the others are mere open roadsteads. In 1876 the imports amounted to £721,005, and the exports to £873,817. Tta* Stats of Bondnras takes its name from the bay of Honduras, (signifying depths), which forms its northern boundary. The first navigators so denominated it, because they with difficulty obtained soundings in it. The surface of the ground is, in this state, even more generally uneven than elsewhere. Its population is scanty in com- parison with the two former states ; and, like Guatemala, it still comprises vast districts of virgin forests, partially peopled by Indians. The climate, like that of the other states, is varied, being generally temperate in the interior, which is notable for its mines, — and hot near the coasts, which abound with rivers, from the banks of which much pahogany and sarsapunlla are obtained. Comayagua (formerly Yalladolid), the capital, is a city of some importance, with 8,000 inhabitants. This state possesses two sea-ports, Truxillo and Omoa, which were active as military and commercial depots of Spain, but are now fallen into comparative decay. Tegucigalpa has gold, silver and copper mines in its vicinity. Vh« stmt* of NioaraBna is exceedingly fertile, and generally salubrious ; but, not- withstanding its possessing several advantages over Honduras, it is but little more populous. This may partly be accounted for by the absence of any leading branch of ilidnstry, or any considerable activity in its commerce, but still more by its frequent civil wars. In a land surpassingly volcanic, this state is pre-eminently so. Managua, possessing a population var'^'^sly stated between 6,000 and 12,000, is the present (1878) capital and seat of liovernment ; but Leon, the former capital, with an esti' mated population of 25,000, is the largest city. These large cities once enjoyed great Wealth and commercial prosperity ; but, like all chief towns in Central America, they have suffered much from crime and consequent internal disorganization, as well as from civil wars, political commotions and misrule. They are now in consequence little better than ruins, scantily inhabited, and, where best, affording abundant evidence of both earlier and more recent devastations. Leon, between lake Managua and the Pacific, is said to have contained at one time 82,000 people. Granada, one of the oldest cities in Central America, has about 10,000 inhabitants ; it is beautifully situ- ated on the north-west shore of the lake Nicaragua. Tho town of Nicaragua, about 86 miles south-oast of Granada, though inferior in size and importance, gives its name to the state and the lake. Like Granada, it is advantageously situated on its banks, opposite the populous island of Ometcpee, which is in the lake, and contains an active volcano. Great interest at present attaches to this state and its waters, in connection with the long formed and often talked-of project of connectiug the Atlantic and Pacific oceans at this point. oosta Blea, the Central America state which at present enjoys the greatest degree of tranquility and political pi'ospority, lies to tho southward of Nicarngua. Its isolated position on the nai-rower part of tho isthmus of Piinaina, making communication with tho other'states difficult^, has preserved it in a great measure from participating in the wars that have desolated the rest of the country ; a circumstance which, conjointly b2 CENTRAL AMERICA. with a great aceesaion of commercial vigonr, arising oat of the snccessfal cnltiTation of coffee, has givep it of late an impluse anknown to the sister states. It also yields gold, silver, tobacco, sarsaparilla, indigo, sugar, cocoa, and dye-woods, &c. While other large cities have been decaying, San Jose, its new capital, has risen into importance .within a very few years, and already numbers upwards of 30,000 inhabitants. Cartage, the former capital, and two other towns of some magnitude (Heredia and Alajuela) occupy with the modem capital, an extensive table-land stretching almost across the isthmus. These towns, together with two or three small ports on each ocean, include almost the entire population (150,000) of this compact and thriving state. XAkM. — The principal lake in Central America is that of Nicaragua, whose surplus waters descend to the Atlantic by the river San Juan del Norte. It is an inland sea 90 miles long N.W. to S.E., and about 40 miles broad. In many places the water is 10 to 16 fathoms deep, and it is stated that there are but few shallows. It contains a small archipelago of islands, and on one fertile and populous island, named Ometepee, there is a volcano. This lake is also connected with that called Managua, itself no inconsiderable body of water. The shores of these magnificent lake<- which are likely to afford important facilities for commerce, are of surpassing fertility, and as salubrious .as they are beautiful. It is from the lake of Nicaragua that the canal is proposed to be cat, connecting the lake with the port of San Juan del Snr, on the Pacific. MonntaiH*. — Not far from the western or Pacific coast, the country is traversed from north-west to south-east by a continuous Cordillera or unbroken chain of mountains, unbroken at least as far as the lake of Nicaragua, which are covered with diversified vegetation. This forms a kind of connecting chain between the rocky mountains of . the North, and the Andes of the South American continent. Some of the loftiest sum- mits are 12,000 feet high. Frequent spurs or offsets from the "Sierra Madre," the main ridge, intersect the plains at right angles, and sometimes extend to the sea shore. At various degrees of elevation along the sides and on the summits of the mountains are numerous plateaux or table-lands, like so many natural terraces, some of them of great extent, and all delightfully temperate and luxuriantly fertile. These regi'jiis especially seem to invite the residence of man, and to invite the culture of his hand. They constitute a distbguishing feature of this and some neighbouring countries. Bat none of these countries, and probably no part of the earth, presents a greater diversity of level on a snr&ce of equal extent than does Central America ; consequently, no coantry possesses such variety of climate, or offers such facilities of adaptation to all kinds of productions and to all constitutions of men, from the sun-burnt inhabitants of a tropical plain, to the hardy mountaineer inured to perpetual snows. Most of the highest peaks and isolated mountains are volcanoes. The rooks are of granite, gneiss, and basalt ; but volcanic formatious and ejections predominate. Not less than thirty volcanic vents ai'e said to be still in activity. The traces of remote, as well as recent earthquakes, are clearly di'^cernible in the fissures and ravines that everywhere abound. Extinct craters, rent rocks, beds of lara, scoriot, vitrified, charred, and pumice stones, tog<)tbcr with hot and sulphureous springs, all mark it as the most volcanic region known. Indeed, shocks of earthquakes, generally slight, are periodically felt at the opening and closing of the wet season. CENTRAL AMERICA. ' prodttets. — The productions of Central America are nameroas. Abundant materiala for exchange with other nations are afforded in cotton, coffee, sngar-cane, arrow-root, ginger, tobacco, and even silk Tvorms, though but lately imported ; but especially in " anil " (indigo), and " grana " (cochineal), which, becaase most lucrative, absorb almost all the attention of the planter. Other mai'ketable productions are not wanting; but both known and unknown sources of w<>?.lth decay in the forests, or lie hidden beneath the soil. Besides these, the more temperate regions yield all, or nearly all, the pro- ductions which are raised in Europe. Wheat and barley are cultivated sometimes by the side of the sugar-cane, on the elevated plains ; and the markets of the larger towns are supplied at once with the productions of torrid and of temperate climes ; so that,, at o low as freezing point," GULF OF PANAMA. Variation nhnut Gi" E. in 1879. There is little, if any, rimninl chantfe. The Boathem limits of the gulf of Panama are usually oonsidorod to be point Gara* chine and capo Mala. The coast immediately south of the gulf is not properly included within the limits of the present work, but as many Hliip-masters using it, may make the gulf from southward, it is advisable to commence our description of the coast with cape Corrientos, Now Granada. OAva OOBRIBNTIIS, the south-west extremity of which is in lat. 6° 28' 40", long. 77° 82' 88", may bo easily known by the domo-like peaks of Anana, about 1500 feet high, which rise directly over it ; this is the first high land north of Monte Ghristo (in lat. 1° 8' 40", long, 80° 40') and generally makes like nn island from southward. It is densely wooded from the summit to high water mark, and the almost constant rains give a bright grcon colour to the peaks. At about 8 miles northward of the oapo ii UTRIA; CABITA AND SOLAIIO BAYS. Alnsea point, the northern extreme of the promontory. The water off this projecting point of lapd is deep, 60 fathoms being found close to the rocks, and 100 at a distance of less than 8 miles. In the vicinity of the cape the current appears to set constantly northward. cablta Bay. — On the south side of cape Corrientes is Gabiti. bay, situated eastward of a high rocky point, distant about 8 miles from the cape ; although open to south- ward, there is here good anchorage, with a capital watering place. Vessels may lie in 18 &thoms at about throe-quarters of a mile from the stream in the bight of the bay, with the we'-'^ern horu bearing S.W. by W. At about 6 miles south-eastward from the watering-place is the mouth of the river Jeya, southward of which is a remark- able perforated rock named Iglcsia (or Church) de Sevira. On the eastern side of the bay the high bold land suddenly terminates, and a beach, with low river land commences, extending, with the exception of the cliffs north of the river Buenaventura «■ (in lat. 8° 49') and that of Cascajal point, as far south as the river Esmeralda, a distance of 400 miles. The coast from Alusea point northward trends eastward 14 miles to the river Nnki, a small mountain stream ; the shore between consists alternately of bluffs and sandy beaches, with a few rivulets. At about 8 miles N.N.W. from the river Nuki is a cluster of high rocks, facing, at the distance of 2 miles, the liver Ghim, another mountain stream ; and 8 miles northward of these rocks is the Morro Ghieo, a pinnacle of a similar nature. From these rocks the coast runs in the same direction, high, rugged, and woody, nearly 8 miles to port Utria. vtria. — This harbour is about 8 miles long in a noi'therly direction by half a mile broad, and has an average depth of 12 fathoins. .Tt is formed on the east side by a lofty but narrow persinsula, which has two islets and some detached rocks off its south point. The entrance is south-eastward of these ; it has no hidden dangers, the shores being steep. The eastern side consists of a sandy boach, which runs out to a spit 2^ miles within the entrance ; at this point tho harbour is only a quarter of a mile across, but northward of it, it widens and forms a commodious basin. The situation of port Utria will be easily known by Playa Baia, a beaeh about 4 miles long, fringed with cocoa-nut trees ; this is immediately northward af the peninsula, and the land behind it is lor. At tho north extreme of the beaeh is the mouth of the little river Baia, off which is a rocky islot. ■oiaao Point, in lat. U" 18', luug. 77° 27' 80", about 12 miles northward of the river Baia, is a long, rocky, tonguo-liko projection, on the eastern side of whiah is the bay of Solano. A roof, consisting of rocky patches with deep water between, extends 1| miles from tho point, and has soumlings of 10 to 80 fathoms close to it; it must therefore be carefully avoided. The coast southward of this point is high and rocky, with occasional small bcaolies. Thoro is a patch of rocks 8 cables from the shore, at about G miles southward from tho extremity of the point, and the water i» deep (40 fathoms) within a mile of the coast. ■oiane Bay is a deep but spacious anchorage forn>ed by Solano point on the south- west, and a lofty promontory, which juts out some 8 miles on the north. It abounds in fiah, wood, water and cocoa-nut palms ; and there are oonsiderui^ie groves o£ 8 CUPICA, OCTAVIA, AND PINAS BAYS. .vegetable hrory, a palm-like plant found in low damp localities, in the vicinity of the sandy beaches. At about 2 miles south-westward from the north point of the bay, there is a small chain of rocky islets, nearly a mile long, the centre of which hae a remarkable sugar-loaf form : they are barren and frequented by large numbers of gannets. The soundings i^. the bay are from 60 to 15 fathoms, the latter being oloso to the shore. Cnpiea Bay. — From Solano bay the land trends northward about 20 miles to Cnpioa bay, which is about 5 miles wide, and justly considered one of the best anchorages on this coast. It is formed on the west side by a projecting point named Cmoes, having off it some dotached islets, the outermost of which is distant about 2 miles. Vessels may anchor in any part of the bay in a convenient depth, and find shelter from all winds except those from southward. The approximate geographical position of point Cruces is lat. G" 39', long. 77° 80' 80". When in Cupica bay, the nearest and most convenient mode of access to the Naipe, a tributary of the Atrato, is from Limon bay, on the eastern shore ; the land above it is about 600 feet hi?h, over which is a watorfall named Quebrada del Mar. The bead of Cupica bay is a sandy boach 4 j^ miles long, at the west extreme of which ia the month of the river Cupica ; on its banks there is a village with some plantations from which vegetables can be obtained. It is high water, fhll and change, in Cupica bay at 8h. 80m., the rise being about 18 feet. The current in the offing sots northward. Ootavla Bay. — From Cruces point the coast trends north-westward 15 miles to point Marzo, in lat. 6° 50', long. 77° 40' 80", which is of a similar nature, and also has detached islets extending 1^ miles southward from it. The bay eastward of Marzo point named Octavia, although smaller than that of Cupica, possesses convenient depth for anchorage. In addition to the detached islets off point Crnces there are high barren rooks of fantastic shapes lying about 1 i miles southward of them ; the passage between is deep and clear. Tba OOA8T on the western side of point Marzo is bold, rugged, and thickly wooded ; it runs in a northerly direction nearly 8 milos, to some detached islets, lying one mile from the coast with 10 frtthoms in-shoro of thorn. Thence the coast bonds sharply to the eabtward for 2 milos ; the cliffs ceasing at the mouth of the river Coredo, a small stream easily entered by a boat, from which a coutinuous Hue of beach, with low lands behind it, extends to tho north-wost for 14 miles, as fur as Ardita bay. On this part of the coast are tho mouths of two small stroains, tho Curachichi and the Ouredo, both of which are haired. This whole coast, like that to tho southward, is thinly inhabited, huts being generally found in the bays and in tho vicinity of the numerous small rivers. Ardita bay may be kndwn by a small islet lying off it. From Ardita bay to Pinas point, a distance of R2 milos, tho con»t is high, rugged, and thickly woodi-d, having deep water close to tho shore, with the exception of two small bays situated about 20 miles northward of Ardita ; the northern one, Gusgava, has oouvonimt auohorage ; — there is also a beach dirootly south of Pinns point. rinaa Bay is about ti milos northward of Pinas point. It affords tho best anchorage between Octavia bay and (laraohin*' point. It is 2 milos deep by li miles wid^, with GARACHINE AND SAN MIGUEL BAYS. 9 an average depth of ** '' .titnomB, and is open to south-westward, from which quarter occasional squalls in the wet season, throw a considerable swell into it. The head of the bay, the geographical position of which is lat. 7° 84' 87", long. 78° 9' 50"., con- sists of a beach, little more than one mile in length, with low land behind it; the sidea of the bay are high and rocky. Good water may be obtained from a stream at the west extreme of the beach, which is protected from the swell by a small natural mole on its western side. Vessels may anchor at about half a mile from the watering place in 8 fathoms ; in the wet season they should keep more on the west side of the bay in 12 fathoms, with the end of the mole bearing N. by W. Off the western point of the bay are the Centinelas, two high barren rocks. oaraehin* Bay. — From Pinas bay a high, bolJ, and wooded coast trends northward 88 miles to point Garachine. At about 8 miles sonth-west from this point is cape E^carpado, oiT which is an islet namad Cajualo. The land over point Garachine is lofty, and mount Zapo (5 miles frora the coast) will be noticed as a sharp conical peak, rising to an elevation of abcut 8000 feet. Garachine bay, north-eastward of the point, between it and Patena point, is shoal ; its shore consists of low mangrove land, forming the months of the river Sambo, which is fronted with mad banks extending 8 miles from the coast. At the entrance of the western month is the Pueblo of Gara- chine, a small collection of huts. Fronting the bay, in a direct line between Gara- chine and Patena points is a bank 5^^ miles long, with patches of 15 feet water on it, and 4 and 6 fathoms inside ; and 4 miles N.W. by W. frx»n the former point, is a small patch of 4^ fathoms, with 6 and 8 fathoms close to it. There is anchorage close off either of the points of the bay, the water bnng deep in their vicinity. SAir MxaTrBZi bat is immediately north of Garachine bay. The entrance is 6^ miles wide, between Brava point on the north and Patena point on the south. At about 2 miles E.S.E. from Brava point is Iioreuzo point, off which, within the bay are Iguana and Napoleon islets, the former is about 1^ miles long, and is the larger of the two ; 8 miles northward of these is llie mouth of the river Congo. From Iguana island eastward the bay opens, being nearly 11 miles across, and at 7 miles north-eastward of the island is Pierce point, a rocky projection on the north shore. The western side of the bay between Lorenzo and Pierce points is little known, but is reported to bo shoal. The eastern side has plenty of water along it ; off Patena point, which is just separated from the muiu enough to make it an island, there is no known danger ; at 2^ miles inside this, in a N.N.E. direction, is Colorado point, bold and rocky, with u conspicuous patch of reddish clay on its face, the coast between forming a bay. Thu luud thou fur 1^ miles gradually decreases in height to Hamilton point, when it falls back to the eastward, and beads round again to the north, forming a bay 8} miles across, with low mangrove shores, having a village and anchorage in it ; but as there are some lodges of rocks in this bay that do not always show, great caution is uooessary in using it, and a boat should bo first sent in to point out the deep wator. In the entrance to San Miguel bay, at a short distance from the north shore, there is an extensive bank, named Buey, upon which the sea breaks heavily ; it is miles i i^ 10 SAN MIGUEL BAY. in ciromnferetice, and some of its patches are dry at low water. Its inn«r edge lies nearly 1^ miles south-westward from Lorenzo point ; the passage between shonld not be nsed, as there are only 10 feet least water in it, and generally a heavy dwell. A spit of 12 feet extends H miles from its south-west end; and as only 4| Cathoms are found at nearly 5 miles south-west from the bank, vessels should not stand within that depth. Colorado point, kept oprai of Patena point bearing N.E., is a good mark to dear this bank, and also for running into San Miguel bay. At about 12 miles eastward from Lorenio point, and- consequently within the en- trance of San Miguel bay, is Washington island, an islet 8 cables in length, as many broad, and densely covered with wood. It lies nearly 8^ miles N.N.E. from Hamilton point, and between it and the nearest shore are several islets and rocks. The channel np the bay is northward of this island, between it and Jones island, a coaspicnoas little rock about 20 £aet high, and covered with grass, lying H miles to the N.W. by W. of it. The coast from abreast of Washington island takes a northerly direction for aboot 6 miles to Stanley island ; in this space aru several little bays, lined with mangrove, the points generally being of small elevation, rocky, and covered with bndi. The channel is between the coast and a group of islands on the west, of which the eastern- most is named the Strain ; this little island is about 25 feet high, covered with trees 9nd scrub, and surrounded by a ledge of rocks extending a short distance off it towards the channel, but connected by mud banks with two islands westward of it. At this point Barry rock, an islet 20 feet high, and eovered with eatti, lying about 8 cables from the eastern shore, contracts the channel to one mile in width ; apparently there is deep water all round this rock, but the passage on its west side being by far the widest, most direct, and sounded, there can be no object in using the other. The channel continues of about the same breadth to Virago point, a distance of 2^ mile«. When working through do not go within a line drawn from one island to the other, and avoid Bains bluff, one mile soathwutd of Virago point, where there is a dangerous ledge of rocks at 3 cables from the shore. Stanley Island, a low wooded island 1^^ miles long by ono mile broad, divides the channel into two passages, both lending into Darlen harbour ; the principal one, or Boca Grande, being a continuation of the bay of San Miguel in a northerly direction past the west and north sides of Stanley island, and tho other, or Boca Ghica, between its southern side and Virago point. The latter channel, although much shorter, is too narrow for a sailing vessel to use with safety, on account of the rapid tide in it. Boca Chica. — This has two dangerous ledges of rooks at its outer entrance, one on each side, the passage between them being barely \\ cables wide ; the southern ledge lies uoai'Iy 1 cable west from Virago point and only shows at low-water spring tides. The Trovan rock on the north side of the cutrauoe uncovers at half tide about 2 cables from the shore of Stanley island. Mary island, the northern of the group before mentioned, kept just midway lotween the summit and north-west extreme of Jorey island, bearing S.W., is an oictllent mark fur clearing those dangers, recollecting that if brought on with the summit, the vessel will get on the northern ledge, and if open to the westward sho will be on ilie opposite one; when past these rooks keep in mid- i i ch is CO re 6 DARIEN HARBOUR. 11 channel. A small ledge runs out a short distance from the soath-east point of Stanley island, having passed which the vessel will be in Darien harbour, and may anchor, as convenient, in 5 to 10 fathoms, sand and mud. The Boca Chica is not, however, recommended, unless used at slack water, for during the strength of the tide it runs 6 or 7 knots ; the eddies making the steerage difficult. Boca Grande. — This lies between the rocks, outside the Boca Chica and Milne island on the western shore, is one mile broad, and continues nearly the same width for li miles between Stanley island and the shore. Mter passing the Boca Chica steer north-westward, so as to shut in Mary island by Milne island, and do noi approach Stanley island within 8 cables, as a dangerous rock, showing only at about three- quarters ebb and connected by a ledge with the shore, lies off its north-west point. Milne island just touching the eastern end of the islands connected with Strain island, bearing S. i £., is a good mark for running; and if working, when northward of Milne island ' ■ . directly Mary island opens of it on the one side, and when Edith island is shut iii on the other. The navigable channel at this point is three-quarters of a mile wide, and begins to turn to the eastward round the north end of Stanley, narrowing to half a mile between Ray and Jannette islands on the north, and a large flat rock, nearly always uncovered, and a little wooded island about a cable off Stanley island on the south; following the channel, it bends back to the south-east, and continues of the same breadth between Ellen and Paley islands on the west, and the main land on the east, into Darien harbour. Dwrten Barbonr is a magnificent sheet of water extending 11 or 12 miles in a south- east direction as far as the village of Chupigana. It is formed by the junction of the Tuyra and Savana rivers, and the depth of water in it from Paley island as far as the mouth of the Savana, a distance of 2 miles, is from 10 to 4^ fathoms, beyond which there is not more than 12 to 18 feet at low-water springs. The best place for anchoring is in from 7 to 10 fathoms, off the village of Palma, one mile southward of Price point, at about 8 cables from the western shore. The Vaguila rock, showing at about half tide, lies off the mouth of the Savaua, East IJ miles from Palma point, with a good channel between it and Oraham point, the west point of entrance to the river. The shores of the harbour are almost without exception ono continuous line of mangrove, with densely wooded hills from 100 to 800 feet high a shoi-t distance inland. Palma appears to be situated on the best spot, and has an abundance of fresh-water. The Hirer Tmjrn rises in lat. 7" 40', and enters Darien horbour near the village of Chupigana. Twenty miles from this point, near the junction of the river Chuqunaque, are the ruins of the old Spanish fort of Santa Maria, near which were the gold mines worked by the Spaniards in the 17th century. The river is desciibed as being navi- gable miles beyond the town, " abreast which it was reckoned to be twice as broad as the river Thames is at London. The rise and fall of the tide there was 15 feet." The river Chuqunaque rises in lat. 8" 50', westward of Caledonia bay on the Atlantic. The Savana liiver rises in lat. S" 44', and a few miles from its source meets the river Lara, whore the bottom is level with the half-tide. From this point the depth increases, 8 fathoms at low water being found 8J miles to the southward, and from thence to the mouth, a distance of 12 miles, the depth varies from U to 12 fathomi 12 TRINIDAD AND CHIMAN RIVERS, Ac. oyer a soft mnddy bottom. The navigable entrance is nearly one mile wide between Graham point and Haydon bank, and the shores are low mangrove land, skirted with hills from 200 to 800 feet high, within 2 miles of the banks. H.M.S. Virago anchored in 8| fathoms, one mile to the north-east of Graham point. It is high water, on the days of fall and change of the moon in Darien harbonr at 4h., and springs are said to rise 24 feet. The tides in the narrows run proportionally strong, and great care should therefore be taken. Brava and Lorenzo points, forming the north side of San Mignel bay, are edged with reefs and outlying rocks, on which the sea breaks with great violence ; this fact, together with the proximity of the Buey bank, makes this part of the coast dangerous, and it should therefore be avoided, even by small vessels. ' Farallon Ingles, — ^This is a small but high island, on the edge of the shoal off the river Buenaventura, at about 5 miles northward of Brava point ; there are 12 and 15 feet water on its western side. At 4 miles northward of it is Gorda point, which is bold and woody with a depth of 4 fathoms close to it. The Pajaros are two small rocky islets lying off the coast, 4 miles northward from Gorda point ; there is a depth of 4 and 5 fathoms off their west sides, but only 12 feet between then and the shore. At these islets a shoal commences, with 5 fathoms on its outer edge, which fronts the whole shore of the bay of Panama as far westward as Chame point. BiTor Trinidad, 2} miles northward of the northern Pajaros is'et, has a low rooky projection forming its south point of entrance. A 8-fathom channel was found into this river, extending 1^ miles from the point, beyond which it was not examined. The borthem bank of the river is composed of mangroves, which continue along the coast, with the exception of the bluffs of the rivers Ghiman and Ghepo, as far as Panama, a distance of nearly 70 miles. Shag rock, a barren islet, frequented by birds, with shoal water round it, lies 2^ miles from this entrance. Mangue and Mnjaguay, 7 miles from the entrance of the Trinidad, are high, wooded islets at tide time, but not at low water, being situated on the south-west edge of a large mud flat, which extends from the north bank of the river Trinidad. There are 10 to 12 feet water westward of them. Xlvar Oblman, 4 miles northward of Mangne and Mojngnay, is wide at the mouth, but shoal, being dry at low water, with the oxccptiuu of some small channels deep enough for canoes. Tho entrance is well marked by the islets just mentioned and the wooded bluffs on each side. On the eastern side, under a hill, is the small town of Ghiman. PcUido Island. — At about 4 miles W. by S. from Mangue islet, and directly off the mouth of tho river Ghiman, is Pelade, a small flat island, about GO feet high. It ia steep on all sides, and useful as a mark to vessels bound up the bay for Panama, which should not go eastward of it. The coast between I'uludo and Ghopillo islands, the latter distant 81 miles to the north-west, oonsists of low river land covered with mangrove bushes. In this space are several small streams, the principal of which are the rivers Hondo and Gorutn ; but these are shoal at tho entrance. Tho laud north of those rivers is of some elevation ; PANAMA. 18 Colnmi) peak and Asses ears, about 12 miles north of Chiman, and Thnmb peak, at the vest extreme of the range, are conspicuous. Extensive mud banks, dry at low water, extend from 2 to 4 miles off the coast ; outside these the water is shoal for some distance, hence vessels standing towards the main should tack in 9 fathoms. Chepillo island, in about lat. 8° 26^', long. 79° 7', lies off the mouth of the river Chepo, at about 2 miles from the coast. It is one mile long by half a mile broad, low on the north side, and rises by a gentle ascent towards the south, over which is, or was, a remarkable tree, which forms an excellent mark to vessels bound up the bay. The southern point of the island may be approached as near as a mile, but the other sides are shoal, and a reef runs off its northern point in the direction of the river. Cbapo BiT«r extends some distance into the interior, having its rise near the head of the Savana river. The entrance is westward of Chepillo island, through a 10-foot channel, about 8 cables broad; there is a small hill, with a cliff under it, on the eastern bank, which, if brought to bear N.E. i E. (1847), will lead through the deepest water. At the west bank of this river the mud flat commences, and continues to Petillo point, immediately northward of Panama. It is shallow some distance out, in front of this flat, hence vessels should not approach the coast between Chepillo island and Panama, nearer than the depth of 6 fathoms. TAVAXHA is a regular and was formerly a well-fortified city, standing on a rocky peninsula. It has a noble appearance from the sea, the churches, towers, and houses, showing above the line of the fortifications, stand out from the dark hills inland with an air of grandeur to which there is no equal on the west coast of South America. It is rendered still more conspicuous by mount Ancon, a beautiful hill, 540 feet high, rising nearly a mile westward of the city, to which it forms a pleasant background ; on each side of Ancon are flat hills, with copses of wood and savanas, grassy slopes and wild thickets, while southward of the city the cultivated islets of Flamenco and Perieo complete the scene. The site of Panama has once been changed. Tho old city, built in 1518, which was taken and destroyed by tho buccaneers under Morgan in 1G78, stood at the month of a creek, about 4 miles north-east of the present city. The spot is now deserted, but well marked by a tower, which, together with an arch, two or three piers of a bridge, and some fragments of a wall, are the only remains of a once opulent city. The tower, in the afternoon, is still a conspicuous object from the anchorage. The expectations formed of the modern city of Panama, as seen from tho sea, are by no means realised on landing. The principal streets extend across the peninsula from sea to sea, intersected by the Calle Ileal or Royal street, which runs east and west, and has a quiet and stately, but comfortless, air. Heavy balconies in the upper stories are but little relieved by any variety in the buildings. The houses, mostly in the old Spanish style, are of stone, tho larger having courts or patios : tho public edifices comprise a cathedral, five convents, a nunnery, and a college, but most of these are in ruins. Tho cathedral is a largo, lofty building, on tho west side of the Plaza, but the structure ia hardly worthy of its situation, tho towers olono redeeming it from insignifioanoo, and forming in the distance an ornament to the city. A groat want 14 PANAMA. is felt ia Panama with regard to drainage. This is caused by neglect ; for the eleva- tion of the peninsula on which the city stands, together with the great rise of the tide, offers considerable advantages for cleansing the city, which duty at present is performed by t^a heavy rains of the wet season. The gold discoveries of California and British Columbia, by increasing the coloniza- tion and developing the great agricnltural resources of those countries, have effected a ehange in the fallen fortunes and grass-grown streets of Panama; and comfortable inns and large well-stocked stores have been called into existence by the continuous transit of emigrants from Europe and the United States to San Francisco and Victoria ; this traffic has, however, decreased since the establishment of the railway from New York to San Francisco. The suburb of Santa Ana, situated on the isthmus which connects Panama with the mainland, is almost as extensive as the city, though not so well built. At its northern extreme is the terminus of the Panama railway to Colon or Aspinwall, on the Atlantic, a distance (by rail) of 47 miles. This railroad was only completed in January 1855, since which time the company has been constantly making improvements.* The line * The problem of oonstrncting a canal across the istbmnB of Panama to connect the two great oceans, the Atlantic and Pacific, has lately been again revived. In the spring of 1879 a Congress was held in Paris for th« purpose of discnssing the various schemes which have from time to time been pat forward. At its termination the report of the Technical Committee on the seven schemes which it had conridered was Mad and may be briefly sammarized as follows ; — The Tehuantepec, 240 kilometres, 120 sluices, 12 days transit. Nicaragua, Menocal-Blanchet schemes each 292 kilometres, 17 sluices; cost of cuu-.l^ruction, including sluices, 77O,O00,00Of, total cost O00,000,000f; 4i days. Panama, level «anal, 73 kilometres, one sluice, sis kilometres of tunnel ; construction l,070,000,000f, total cost l,200,000,000f ; two days. Panama, sluices, 73 kilometres, 12 sluices ; construction 570,000,000 ; total cost 700,000,000 ; two days. San Bias, 63 kilometres, 16 kilo- metres of tunnel; construction, l,27O,000,000f, total cost l,400,000,000f ; one dny. Atrato Napuipi, 290 kilometres, two sluices, four kilometres of tunnel ; construction 1,000,000, OOOf, total cost l,130,000,000f ; three days. The expense of working and repairs was set down in each case, oapitalised at 6 per cent., at 130,000,000f. As to the Tclmantepeo route, the committee had no data on which to estimate the cost, but believed it would greatly exceed that of any of the other •chemes. The Nicaragua prqject offered »n inexhaustible reservoir of water, and u port could easily be made on the Pacific side ', but serioqs diiUculties were to be apprcliended at certain poicts. The Panama schemes offered excellent ports at both ends, and the existing railway would facilitate tho transit of material. Subject to tidal sluices at tho Paoifio end and the complete isolation of the ^ters of the Chagres and its affluents, the level scheme was quite satisfaotory. The Darien projects were not acceptable. The committee objected also to the Nicaragua scheme, though technically fiMsible, on account of the volcanic nature of the country and consequent liability to destruction of the work. The Panama route, on the other hand, had long b-sen free from volcanic action, and was decidedly preferable above all others. The choice lay here between a level canal and one with sluices, and the committee decidedly preferred the former. — A report was likewise presented by the President and office-bearers on the Congress at large and those of the various committees. This document cited the Sues Canal traffic and charges as proof of the remunerativeness of the enter- prise, and advocated a flat canal, through which 50 ships could pass daily, and capable of sheltering at least GO ships at a time. It recommended the Congress to adopt the following resolution :— The Comgreit kiddi that the euttinu of an inter-oceanic qanal of uniform level — a work so de$irable in the intereit of commerce and navigation — u practicable, and that the maritime canal, in order to tneet tlie indiipentabU facilities of access and utilisation which ought to be offered by a passage of this kind, should be made from the Oulf of Limon to the Day of Panama." Tho r^ll was then «alled, aud eooh member of the Congress was asked to vote upon tho rssolution. it. do Lesseps PANAMA. 15 ifl only a nngle one bat there are foar eidings, ooe at each of the following places : — GatuDr Barbaeoaa^ Matacbin and at the saminit (263 feet above the sea-level). It is naintained in the greatest efficiency by stations, situated 4 miles apart. The time ooeapied in the transit is about 4^^ hoars, and the fare is (or was) 25 dollars. A telegraph is established between its termini. A regular mail service is established from England to the West Coast of South America, via the Panama railway. After touching at all the principal ports on the coast Valparaiso ia reached in 42 to 50 days. The trade of the isthmus of Panama is extensive ; it is carried on mainly by a large fleet of first-claaa steamers, many of them registering fi'om 2000 to 8000 tons. These steamers, or others on the same lines, make regular semi-monthly trips direct from the isthmus to upwards of 50 different ports, in no less than 15 distinct countries. Panama affords the usual supplies which are to be obtained in tropical regions. Provimons of excellent quality may also be obtained from the United States ; and, whea time will admit of it, getting such from the States is preferable to purchasing in the markets of Colon or Panama. The United States squadron have all their stores and provisions sent across the isthmus. Water can be obtained at Panama from the tank of the U.S. mail steamers ', but it is cheaper at Taboga, where it may be purchased at two dollars a ton. Coal may be bought here at timp'^ from the mail companies, but it is generally dear ; the cost of coal imported into . iuama by way of Cape Horn being 16 dollars per ton, and by the railroad 15 dollars (1860). Consuls of all nations reside of Panama. Large quantities of Peru bark, balsam, cochineal, cocoa, coffee, bides, india-rubber, indigo, logwood, oil (whale and cocoa-nut,) sarsaparilla, vanilla, gold, silver, and hundreds of other commodities of the Pacific, seek a market via this great central route of the globe. The population of the city is estimated to be about 12,000. The geographical position of the isthmus of Panama, the absence of high mountains, and the vast extent of forests and other uncultivated parts, tend to produce a hot and rainy climate, which nevertheless, with the exception of a few localities, as Chagres, Colon, and Portobello, is healthy and more favourable to the constitution of Europeans than that of most tropical countries. The most prevalent disease is intermittent fever, which makes its appearance daring the change of the season ; remittent fever is less frequent, but generally proves fatal. On board ship, Panama is by far the most healthy place on the coast of Central America. The seasons are regularly divided into the wet and dry ', the former commences in the latter end of May and lasts till November. Slight at first, the rain gradually inoveases, and is fully established in June, when it falls occasionally in torrents. voted in ita favour, and Sir John Stokes also voted affirmatively. The reiolutiou wns ooi-ricd bj 74 to 8, there being 16 abseutees. To carry out this gigantio work a Company, under the name of the " Inter-Ooeanio Canal Uni- versal Company " baa been started (August 1879) under the Presidency and Direction of M. Ferdi- nand d« Lesseps, Presideut-Direotor of the Suez Canal. The work is expected by the promoters, to oooupy abgat 8 or 10 yean, bat it is doabted by many whether it will ever be aceomplished. 16 PANAMA. accompanied by thander and lightning ; tho air is loaded with moisture, and calms or light variable winds prevail. The temperature varies from 75° to 87° Fahr. ; still the atmosphere is oppressive, until cooled by the heavy rains and thander storms before-mentioned. About the end of June the rains are suspended for a short time ; and the occurrence of this phenomenon is so regular that it is looked forward to by the inhabitants, who call it the veranito (little summer) de San Juan, probably from its taking place almost simultaneously with the feast of St. John (June 24th.) In December the violent rains cease and the north-west wind sets in, producing an imme- diate change, and the climate now displays all its tropical beauties. Dampier's remarks on the climute of Panama are too true to be omitted : — " There are no woods nor marshes near Panama, but a brave, dry champaign land, not subject to togs or mists. The wet season begins in the latter end of May, and continues till November. At that time the sea breezes are at S.S.W., and the land winds at North. The rains are not so excessive about Panama itself, as on either side of the bay ; yet in the months of June, July, and August, they are severe enough. Gentlemen that come from Peru to Panama, especially in these months^ cut their hair close, to preserve them from fevers ; for the place is sickly to them, because they come out of a country which never hath any rains, but enjoys a constant serenity; but I am apt to believe this city is healthy enough to any other people." The Port. — The port of Panama is formed by Petillo point (a black rocky promontory with two small hills over it, between which is a rivulet admitting boats at high water)^ 1^ miles north-eastward of the city, and the point upon which the city stands, the shore between forming a bay nearly three-quarters of a mile deep, the head of which is of mud fronted by a sandy beach. A great portion of this bay is dry at low water springs ; at its entrance there is a depth of 8 feet. It is here that the terminus of the railroad across the isthmus is situated, consisting of an iron pier 450 feet long, up to which the smaller steamers come for the transport of passengers and merchandise between the shore and the ocean steamers at Perico or Tobago. Large canoes, well fitted for the navigation of the gulf are also employed for the minor trade as they are useful in transporting the various tropical productions of the isthmus to the port of Panama. Light, — A fixed red light is exhibited from the end of the railway pier, which is situated a quarter of a mile to the northward of the city. Petillo point, the north point of the bay, is surrounded by rocky ledges, which ex- tend out li cables, and have a depth of 10 feet at their extremity. Buey point, the southern horn of the bay, is the north-eastern point of the long rocky lodges that surround the eastern and southern shores of the peninsula of the city ; it is only visible at low tide. These ledges extend 8^ cables from the north-east bastion, 5 cables from the south-east bastion in an easterly, and 2,^ cables in a southerly direc- tion, forming a bay southward of Buey point, in which is easy landing after half-flood, on a sandy beach in front of the Monk's gate, one of the principal entrances to the city. The general landing, however, is north of Buey point, at the market place on the northern side of the town. Abreast the suburbs on the southei'u side, another ledge runs off for nearly three-quarters of a mile, eastward of which are Los Hermanos, Fiuw pa^i$ threo blacl water bet\i the rocks, with sand Babstantial works at improveme Guinea round hill^ the town a vated banl Tortolita is hilly proje( garmi islai are Bruja i and Gocovi bay should 7erleo a forming th< parts of Pe high water of the Unit anchorage, have been ( keep close vessels dra tide, with I N.N.W. ; I when Peric passage bet Flamenco a Danaide Panama rot water on th vessels stan manos rock W. by 8., 1 way betweei This spot is vicinity, as Sulphur mile north-1 around it, a centre of Ai PANAMA ROAD. VI three black rocks visible at first qnarter ebb. Detached rocks, with 8 and 7 feet water between them, visible only at low water sp iuga, lie oflf the south-east extreme of the rocks, the outer one being 3 cables from the reef. These ledges, composed of rock with sand patches between, although dangerous to boats, afford evei^ facility for erecting substantial piers and improving the port. As yet (1879) no attempt has been made at works at this description, but the daily increasing trade must ultimately necessitate improvements of this kind. Guinea point, 2 miles south-westward of Panama, is the northern extreme of a large round hilly projection, which forms the western side of Panama road. Between it and the town are the mouths of the Grande, Arena, and Falfan, small rivers, with culti- vated banks. The water on this side of Panama road is shoal as far as Tortola and Tortolita islands, which lie 2 miles southward of Batele point, the south extreme of the hilly projection above-mentioned. One mile E. by S. i S. from Batele point is Chan- garmi island, surrounded by the Pulperia reefs ; and to the south-west of the point are Bruja and Venado points, rocky and projecting, with the outlying islets of Cocovi and Cocoviceta. Although these dangers are mostly above water, this part of Panama bay should be avoided. Tarieo and Flamenco, with the outlying rock of San Jose, are A group of islands, forming the south side of Panama road. Ilenao and Gulcbra, the western and southern parts of Perico, are connected with Perico by an isthmus of beach and rockf? : but at high water these present the appearance of throe islands. Perico is the bead-quarters of the United States mail steamers, the bay On its northern side forming a convenient anchorage, while on the isthmus, which is sandy on that bide, steamers of 2500 tons have been easily beached. Vessels using this anchorage after passing Flamenco should keep close round the noiih end of Perico, and anchor when the isthmus opens. Large vessels drawing over 20 feet may coal at Perico by passing west of the group at half- tide, with Ancon hill (which on that bearing makes like a cone) just open of Ilenao, N.N.W. ; pass about a cable from Ileno.D, and anchor off its noi-th-west end in 24 feet, when Perico opens. In both cases attention must be paid to the time of tide. The passage between Perico and Flnmenco is shoal, and should not be used ; that between Flamenco and San Jose is deep, and both islands are steep. Dandide Rocks. — These patches of conical rocks, lying on the eastern ridge of Panama road, E. by S. %\ miles from the south-east bastion, have only 15 to 18 feet water on them, and %^ and 4 fathoms on all sides. They lie awkwardly in the track of vessels standing for the anchorage; keeping their luif' with the land breeze. The Her- manos rocks, in line with the hill between the rivers Grande and Falfan, bearing W. by 8., lead northward of them; and the south steeple of the cathedral kept half- way between the east and south-east bastions, W.N.W., leads southward of them. This spot is a favourite fishing-place, and vessels should avoid canoes seen in its vicinity, as they are probably fishing on the rocks. Sulphur Rocks. — This dangerous reef, cables long by 3 cables broad, lying one mile north-westward of the Danaide, has a rock awash in its centre, with C and 9 feet around it, and outlying patches of 12 and 14 feet. The railroad flagstaff on with the centre of Ancon, bearing W. ^ S., leads northward of the reef in 15 feet, but this 18 PANAMA ROAD. ( i passage should not be used at low water springs ; and the Hermanos rocks in line with a round peal, over the river Grande, lead southward of the reef in 18 feet. The Knocker and Tahoga are two rocks, with only 6 feet water on them. The Enocker, which is, or was, marked by a red buoy with staff and jiarj on it, lies nearly one mile E. i N. from the south-east bastion ; the Taboga lies a little more than 2 cables south-westward of the Enocker buoy, with 16 feet water between, and 12 feet in-shore of them, but no stranger should attempt to pass westward of the buoy. VABOOA XB&AMD, with Urava and Tabognilla, a group of islands about 4 miles long by 2 broad, are situated 9 miles southward of Panama. Taboga, the largest and westernmost, is 086 feet above the sea, well cultivated, and has a considerable village on its north-east side. Northward of the village is the mono of Taboga, a small hill, connected with the main island by a low, sandy isthmus, covered at high water ; this is the head-quarters of the Pacific Mail Company, who have here a steam factory and coal stores, also a gridiron, 800 feet long, on which H.M.S. Mayicienue, a vessel of 1265 tons, was repaired in 1858. Vessels visit Taboga from Piinama to obLiin waior and supplies, both of which are more readily obtained than at the city ; water can be procured from the Company's tank. The anchorage ofif the village is convenient, being about 8 cables from th<. shore in 10 fathoms, with the peak of Urava on with the high cliff of Taboga, and the church from S.W. i S. to West. vrav* is a small lofty island, separated irom Taboga by a narrow and shoal channel; off its southern extreme is the small islot of Terapa. TaboKoiiia, 710 feet high, is well cultivated, with some islets off its south-west extreme, and forms the uorth-eact island of the gi'onp, with a wide and deep channel between it and Urava, in the vet.' i'e of which is a sunken rock just awash &t low water; the sea seldom breaks over it at high water and it must be carefully avoided by closing either island, both being steep-to, or vessels may pass south of it by keeping the isthmus of the morro open, bearing N.W. by W. i W. Farallon, a small islot, also lies in this channel, but it is steep-to with 11 fathoms between it and Tuboguilla. Tides. — It is high water on the days of full and ohnngo, in Panama road at 8h. 28m., springs rise from 15 to 22 feet, and neaps from 10 to 16 fuet. Tho ebb sots south from 1 to li miles an hour, and is stronger than the flood, which runs to the uor'iii- west. The long swell which occasionally sets into the road always ceases with the flowing tide. It has been remarked by tho oflicers of tho U.S. Pacific mail steamers that there is more rise in tho small b:^y north of the town, and also in their own anchorage off Perico, than in tho more open parts of tho road. Diraotinas. — Sailing vessels bound to Puuaaa shoulJ endeavour to ;:;ot within 8 or 4 miles of Chopillo island, especially between DoL'ombar and Jnno, and ho have all tho advantaged of the prevailing northerly wind. From this poHition Ancou bill will bo Been, and should bo kept a little on the port bow, as tho wind iiauls to tho westward ou approaching Panama. YosboIb drawing over 18 ftet ihould pass south of tho Danaide rocks, by keeping Ban Jose rock* open of tho west point uf Taboga island, * Wo believe i\ light, viiiblo 7 milei, ii exhibilcd ou '^' \n Joi6 rook, when the iteaiuorB from Sau FrAnoiioo are oxpooted. CHAME BAY. Id . 23m., south bearing S.S-.W. i W., until tho cathedral towers are open eastward of /lcou. Having passed tho Danaide rocks the ship is fairly in tho road and may anchor according to her draught; — if no n.ore than 18 feet draught she may have Tortola island just phut in hy Ilenao, bearing S.S.W. J W., and San Jose rock open east of Tahoguilla island. Vessels drawing 24 feet may anchor north of Perico, with the peak of Urava island on with the east point of Flamenco, bearing South, taking care not to open Changarmi northward of Perico. If it is necessary to work up tho road to an in-shoro berth, tack on the western side just before Perico and Flamenco touch ; and in standing to tho eastward do not open San Jose of Taboga island. Vessels drawing 14 feet can pass north of the Danaide and south of tho Sulphur rocks, with the Hermanos rocks on with the right side of the peak, between the rivers Grande and Falfan ; then San Jose rock on with the peak of Tahoguilla bearing S. i E. leads between the Sulphur and Knocker rocks ; and they may anchor north of the Knocker buoy in 10 feet, keeping it between Perico and Flamenco, with Gabilan, a small rocky peninsula west of the town, just shut in by the south-east bastion. During neap tides they may anchor still farther to tho N.W. Panama road, although shoal, may be considered secure ; the ground being muddy holds well. A resident in Panama for live years, stated, that during that time there was no known case of a vessel being driven from her anchor; and with good ground tackle and common precaution a vessel might lie there all the year round with ouo anchor down. Attention to tho tides and soundings of tho roadstead will enable a vessel to lie close in at times for the discharge of cargo. Oeoffniphical Posit inn, — The position of tho south-east angle of the south tower of Panama cathedral is lat. 8" C7' G"-15, long. 79° 82' 12"'8. The longitude was deter- mined by telegraph from Aspinwall, by Lieut. F. M. Com. Groen, U.S. Navy, in 1875. cbama Bay. — Tho coast southward of Panama bet\/ceu Bruja point and Chamo point, a distance of 16 miles, forms a shoal bay, with several outlying banks and rocky islets; hence vessels bound to Panama should keep near the island of Taboga, and not approach this shore within the depth of 5 fathoms. Viqne cove, in which is a small village, is 5 miles westward from Driya point. About ouo mile north-eastward of Vique is a lofty troblo-peaked hill, called Cerro do Cabra, a conspicuous object to vessels bound to Panuuia, and frequently mistaken for Taboga by those coming from eastward. Vacamouto point, tha western side of Vique cove, is the only break in tho mud flat which fronts this laud, and extends out nearly 2 miles from shore. Cliaun' bay, at the hoad of which is a sniuil river of the same name, is nearly filled up by largo banks, tho largest of which, tho Cubra spit, lies in tho middle, and has on it an islet named Tabor. Chuini) point, the southern horn of this bay, is a singular, low, woody proiiioutory, rtj miles long by half a mile broad. Between it and Cabra spit is a convenient harbour, 2 milts in longlh by about throo-quortors of a mile wide, with from 8 to » f;itli;;:ur, water in it, and from 1(5 lo IH fi^et eloso to tho beach of Clliami' point. To tho nortli-wcst (if liio river is a high rungo called Sierra Caprro, and to tho southward are tho Corrj Chamo, a group of wooded hills. Meloiuix Itilinid is a small rocky islot 21 miles north-westward from Taboga, liaving al about hiiU" a mile northward of it, a rock of the same name above w.itcr. Tho inland is steep, but vessels should be careful not to pass westward of it. c2 so PARITA BAY AND PEARL ISLANDS, &o. I ! t Chame Island, with the Perique rock, are of a similar character to Meloncs, and situated about the same distance southward of Taboga. VaUadoiid is a large rock, nearly 2 miles south-westward of Chame island, having 9 and 10 fathoms close to it. otoqas and Bona Xaianda, with Estiva island and tho Bedundo rock lying 6 miles soath-eastward from Chame point, form a group similar to, but somewhat smaller than Taboga and Taboguilla. A village, named Golota, is in the bay on the western side of Otoque. Anchorage, in from 10 to 14 fathoms, may be found in any part of this group, and all dangers are above water. Tliese islands being high and peaked, form good hnd-marks to vessels on this side of the gnlf of Panama. PARITA BAT. — From Chame point t}-i a*..''' ^vm south-westward 45 miles to Parita bay, and consists throughout of a butifL naa/t Playa Grande, which is backed by a low wooded bank. There is a depth c 1 a-d 5 fathoms at about 2 miles from this beach, except S.8.E. i E. of the Cer.'o Chame, where there are only 4 fathoms at nearly 7 miles from the land, tho bank extending from that to Chame point. To avoid this, vessels from Parita bay should shape a couiso to pass about 2 miles southward of Bona until Taboguilla is nearly touching Otoque, bearing N. by E. ^ E., when they may steer up the bay, inside but nearer to the islands. The mud-flats are found again on tho western side of Parita bay, the coast being a low mangrove shore, intersected by tho mouths of no less than five small rivers ; the land to the westward is also low with several hummocks. Al Liso point, on the sonth side of the bay, the hard bank with sandy beach in front ugvn commences and con- tinues as far as cape Mala, a distance of 88 miles, the const irr iJing to the south-east. Parita bay is about 18 miles long north and south, ar '• j 'uiles deep, and has soundings of 18 fathoms at lU miles from the shore, t!:: u:.<^ ■.' '(i>lly decreasing to the Innd. It is exposed to all windii blowing from eastwi V). Iguana Island. — At about 80 miles south-eastward of Liso -n t, 'jr d milos north- ward of cape Mala, Iguana island, which is a little iiighor thuu mo adjacent coast, forms a conspicuous object. A ledge extends about 8 cables from its southern and also from its eastern point, and a reef is said to stretch to tho N.N.E. from its north point, but otherwise the island is stoep-to with 15 falhuuis in tho channel between it and the main. It is high water, full and change, at Iguana island at 4h. ; tho rise and fall being 15 feet. Tho flood sets northward, and tho ebb soutl;-- 1 'wiivd, tho latter being con- siderably the stronger, especially between December o:.J : ■". Cape Mala, which forms the western point of eutrnncu " ilio guif of Panama, is a low but clitfy point with outlying ro'iky ledges, having dot>i) water close to them. The laud from the north-west slopes ;,'vr:!l.iUilv to tho sea at tliis point from ii considerable distance, making tlie oxact k.ij,o diiru-v" ♦a dirilinguish, unltiss tho breakers are seen. On opening tho gulf rom\t this taj^t, a strong southerly sot is generally experienced, especially in tho dry season. FBABXi ISLANDS. — ThoRC form an archipelago on tho onfitorn side of Panama bay, consisting of sixteen iHlands and several roekw, Key is tlio I'lrgesl; San Jose, Oon- zaluM, Canaya, Suboga, and Pachuca are of Hocouilury, and the rest of vxiuot iiuportanco. PEARL ISLANDS. 21 •^ There are from 80 to 40 fishing villages scattered ahout these islands, the inhabitants of which are chiefly engaged in the pearl fishery. The islands are low and wooded, the soil fertile, but not much cultivated, and the numerous cocoa-nut groves, and bright eandy beaches, intersected by small rocky bluffs crowned with trees, give them a pleasant appearance ; most of them belong to merchants at Panama, who employ negroes to plant and cultivate them. Pacheca, Sahoi/a, and Confradora Islands, with the islets of Bartholomew and Chipre, form the northern part of the archipelago, and between them is a good and capacious harbour, well suited as a depot for steamers. Saboga, the largest island, ou the east side of which is a considerable village, has a reef extending 1^ miles in a northerly direction ; Coutradora has 5 fathoms close to its north-west shore, which is low and well adapted for wharves. This harbour, which is about 2 miles long by nearly one mile broad, with an avcrngo depth of 9 fathoms, has Saboga on its western side, Oontradora on its south -cast, and Pacheca and Bartholomew on its north side; it has three entrances, each possessing a 5-fathom channel, which may be used according to wind and tide. The Pacheca channel lies southward of Pacheca, between it and the reef extending from Saboga ; the Gontradora channel is round the northern end of Gontnvdora island; and the Saboga channel is between that island and Coutradora. It is high water, full and change, at Saboga island at 4h., and springs rise 14 feet. Vessels using the Pacheca channel should pass within half a mile of the islet west of Pacheca, and stand southward until the centre of Bartholomew island bears E. by S. i S. ; then keep it on this bearing until T>\ck islet off Saboga opens westward of Saboga bearing S. i E. which will lead to the anchorage. Euteriug by the Coutradora channel, vessels should pass half a mile eastward of Bartholomew island and not stand to the westward before the nearest islets north of Saboga open northward of Saboga ; theso islets kept just open bearing W. by S. lead through. Care must be taken not to open them too much, as there is a 2-fathom patch off the north-east cud of Coutradora. Vessels from eastward using the Saboga cliaunel should steer in with the outer islet ou the reef oxtoudiug from the south end of Saboga bearing W. i S., as this will lead clear of tho Sunk rock, a patoh lying nearly a mile off the south side of Coutradora ; and, when Pacheca is shut in by Siiboga, bearing N. \ W., they should steer northward, and run through tho channel which is stoop ou both sides. There is a ohannol north- ward of the Sunk rock, but that south of it is wider and better. Approaching tho Saboga channel from westward, sail close to tho islet of Santa Cataliuii, which lies about IJ miles south of Chipre, to avoid tiie shoal extending from the latter island. From Catalina steer N.i". for the north end of Chapcra, tho island ne.xt south of Coutradora, until Pacheca louehoH Coutradora, bearing N. by W. ; then steer N.N.W. i VV. for a huiuH liill on Subnga, If.king cure not hi shut in Pacheca with Haboga unlil tlio norlli point of Cbipt',. bears southward of West, and tiiat Pacheca is skill iu before tho south point of SaLogii boars West, thou stand for mid-chauuol as before. Cluiperu and Vnjnros, tho islands immodiatoly southward of those just mentiouod, are separatod by a 4-fttthom channel in which the ground is foul and consuquently not safe to navigate. A shoal with 18 t'o(>t water on it lies one mile eastward of Pujnros, B ri iH PEARL ISLANDS. and Bonthwai'd of that island the soandings are rocky and irregular. No vessel should attempt the passage south of Chapera and Pajaros islands — between then and Rey island. Casaya, Bayoneta and Viveros, are the largest among the numerous islands on the reef extending from the north-west point of Rey island ; the passages between them all are foul, with occasional suong tides. At nearly 4 miles eastward of the north point of Casaya is a bank 1^ miles long by three-quarters of a mile wide, having only 9 feet water on its shoalest part ; and at about 2 miles from the north-east point of Viveros are the Caracoles and Cangrejo islets, with foul ground around them. The whole of these islands may be avoided by vessels bound up the bay, by not approaching their western side nearer than just to open San Jose island eastward of Pedro '.lonzales island, bearing S. by E. ; while on their eastern side, they should not open San Pablo, a small islet off the north-east point of Rey island. Bay, the principal of the Pearl islands, is about 15 miles long, in a north and south direction, by 7 broad ; it has several peaks on it, the highest of which is about CiOO feet above the sea. Numerous islets, having deep water between them, lie 8 miles off its western rfhore, and these ehould no*, be approached by strangers within the depth of 10 fathoms. Cocos point, its southe.n extreme, is a remarkable j^roraontory, 4 miles long by about one wide, the extreme cliff of which was crowned in 1850 by an umbrella-shaped tree. On the east side of this promontory is the bay of St. Elmo, where is convenient anchorage, and a good stream of water at Lemon point at its head ; the soundings in this bay are lU to 6 fathoms, the latter being at a short distance from the shore. The eastern shore of Rey has also islands off it, which may be approached to half a mile, with tho exception of that named Canas. This is an island about 6 miles norths ward from St. Elmo bay, tho larger of two islands separated from the shore by a narrow chauDcI; it has off it a sunken rook at nearly a mile distance, and three- quarters of a mile outside this is a patch of 8 fathoms ; — to avoid these sunken dangers do not open Mongi'i islot, eastward of St. Elmo, until Pablo islet opens eastward of Muerta, a small barren islet lying about 1^ miles north-eastward of Cauas. ■an SHiKn*], the principal town of the Pearl islands, is on tho north side of Roy, It iH of considerable bi^o, and has a conspicuous church, but is bailly situated, landing being difficult at low water. Two hills— the Corro Congo and Cerro Vali — rise south- ward of it, tho former being 481 foot high, Vesnela having to lie off tho town should run In l)otwcon Camcolos and Cangrejo, and anchor in alout (5 or 7 fathoms, when the church is shut in or behind \fuora, an islet lying off tho town, bearing 8.E. by S. The bottom in this anchorage is irregular and locks are numerous, hence more than ordinary cave is required. (jnlern, an islet lying 71 miles E, } S. from Cocos point, tho southern extremity of Roy, is gononiliy the first hind niudo by vessois bound to Panama from Houtii-eastward ; its approximate googniphieiil position is Int. 8" 11. J', long. 78" 45i|'. lis southem side consists of a cliff .sloping down to a beach on the 'lorth, and to tho southward a roof runs off for nearly .i mile. It should not bo approached within the dopth of 10 fi'thoins, but there is a good pasnago botweou it and Cocos point, by uuiug which vessuls will bo dear (if the San Josr bank. PEARL ISLANDS. 28 San Jose Bank lies about 9 miles in an E.S.E. direction trom Galera island, and immediately faces the entrance to San Miguel bay. It consists of a bank of 7 or 8 fathoms, which extends N.W. ^ N. and S.E. J S. 8 miles, ar'l Is m no part more than three-quarters of a mile broad. Close to it all round is a depth of 12 to 18 fathoms, which in a westerly direction deepens to 80 fathoms at less than a mile. In the centre of this bank is the Trollope rock, having only 2 feet water over it at low tide ; it bears W. i S. 16 miles from Garachine point, and E.S.E. 9 miles from Galera island. The shoal upon which this rock stands is one mile long by about three-quarters of a mile broad ; the depth close to the rock is 8^ to 6 fathoms, and there are 7 and 8 fathoms on its outer edge — vessels should not therefore approach it within the depth of 10 fathoms. The rock may be easily avoided, either by keeping on the main shore until Garachine point bears southward of East, or by passing about 2 miles from Galera island, taking care at the same time not to run on the shoal patch and rocks off the southern side of the latter. Fedro aonzaJes is separated from the islets off the west side of Bey by a broad deep channel. It is about 12 miles in circumference, and has on its northern side two small bays protected from the north by the islands of Senora and Senorita. These bays, known as Perry and Mngicienno, are divided by the little peninsula of Trapiche, off the east point of which is a rocky ledge, terminating in a shoal with 14 feet water, at a distance of nearly 8 cables from the point ; inside this, to the southward, there is a small anchorage in i^ fathoms. Magicieune bay is small and shoal; on its western side a stream of water runs into the sea. Perry bay the eastern one, is about a milo in extent each way. Senoru and Senorita, including the shoal off their eastern side, are about ono milo long, and lie nearly the sumo distance northward of Trapiche, with a 7-fathom channel between, steep on both sides. Tides. — It is high water, on the days of full and change of the moon, in Perry bay at Bh. 50m. ; and the rise is IG foot. Tbo tide stream is not felt in the anchorage, but there is a cousiderablo set off the island, tho flood running to the northward, the ebb to the southward, tho hitter being generally stronger. Directions, — Vessels may pass on either side of tho Senora and Senorita ; if on the east side, avoid the shoal oxteuiiii)<^ from them by keeping the eastern point of Gonzalos island, a rocky pouinsula, open of tho point next north of it, bearing S.S.E., until the north end of Senora is shut in by Senorita, bearing N.W. by W. J W. Going into Perry bay, a good look-out must be kept for the shoal running off E.S.E. from Trapiche island. Vassaffo llock. — At nearly 1\ miles S.S.W. } W. from tho rook off tho south end of Pedro Gonzalos, there is a dungorous rock, awash or nearly so at low tide, named Passage rock, lying in almost mid-cbunncl botwoon Pedro Gonzales and San Joso. It has soundings of 12 and 1) fathoms close to it, u..! 7 to 5 fathoms at a short distance northward of it. Iho mark to lead rather more than half a milo southward of it is, — the peak next south of tho highest on llcy island, just open southward of Coco islet, one of the outlying islots off tho west side of Roy, bearing E. by N. J N. Vossols should keep between tho San Joso shore and this mark. 24 WINDS, CURRENTS, &o., IN THE GULF OF PANAMA. I w San Jose Island, four milos South of Gonzales, is about 6^^ miles long by 3 miles broad, and its summit consists of table laud. At nearly 2 miles south-eastward from Iguana point, its northern extreme, is a large waterfall, flowing into the sea, and form- ing an excellent watering place. At the south-east side of the island there is a bay, in which are soundings of 8 to 5 fathoms, but, as the swell sets in there with great violence, it is not convenient for shipping. Off the southern point of the island are a number of high rocks of singular and fantastic shape ; this part of the island should be avoided. The western shore is bold and cliffy, with a small bay near the centre. mrzicDS, ciTBBBnrTS, fte., In til* atrzir or PAirAMA. — The navigation of the ap- proaches to the gulf of Panama, situated as they are in the region of the doldrums, with the land of Central America considerably affecting the northern trade, becomes to a vessel unaided by steam ono of tho most tedious, uncertain, and vexatious under- takings known to the sailor. Stuum power will considerably simplify these difficulties, but tho experiences of a sailing vessel may materially assist tho navigation of the auxiliary screv/ steamer in this portion of the Pacific. winds. — Between cape Corrientes and Panama, the prevalent winds are from north- ward and westward, with frequent squalls and wet weather from the south-west between tho months of June and October. In tho gulf of Panama tho winds are regulated by the seasons ; the prevalent wind, however, is from northward. In tho fine season, commencing in October, these winds are regular and constant, bringing fine dry weather. Southward of tho gulf they blow much harder, and off tho coast of Veragua a double reefed topsail breeze in January and February is not uncommon. In April and May the northerly winds are less regular, and have more westing in thorn, with calms, light sea, and land breezes, with occasional squalls from the south-westward. In Juno tho rainy season sots in, and the southerly winds become stronger. Still tho old north-wc.^it wind is mostly found after noon, and vessels sailing from Panama at all seasons will generally have a fair wind until south of cape Mala. Between tho Galapagos islands and tlie coast, westward of tho meridian of 80°, and southward of the parallel of 5" N., tho winds are between South and West all tho year round, nnd, except between the mouths of February and June, they are of sufficient strength and duration to make tho mivigatlon easy ; but northward of lat. 5° N., between 80° and 110° W., is a region of calm and doldrums, accompanied by rains and squalls of a most voxntious description. The weather met with can hardly be better illustrated than by the facts that in May 1818 II.jM.S. Herald, in her passage towards the Sand- wich islands, although towed for G days as far west as 80° 20', still took 40 days from Panama to 110" W., owing to keeping between tho parallels of 8° and 10° N., and in March of tho following year, in tho meridian of 87", and tho lat. of 8° N., only made BO milos in days. CorrentB. — Tho gulf of Panama is also stilijoct to varying currents, partly caused by the peculiar forimition of the land, and ap[).uent!y influenced in turns by the Poruviau or Mexican streams, according as tho relative strength of each predominates. Thus Malpelo island is surrounded by a strong current, having muuh thu appearuuoe uf I L PASSAGES TO AND FROM PANAMA. 26 m brealters. Here one navigator found the current setting strongly into tlie gulf N.E. by E. at the rate of '2,^ miles an hour, while others describe it as running violently in the opposite direction. That these varying statements should be equally correct is not at all incompatible, considering the position of the island amidst conflicting winds. This ancertaiuty is another embarrassment to the navigation between Panama and the Galapagos. A steady current, however, has generally been found to set northward after passing cape San Lorenzo, extending off shore for about CO miles. This stream runs along the coast of the continent, round Panama bay, and then sets with consider- able force, especially in the dry season, southward down the western side of the bay. After passing cape Mala it meets the Mexican current from the W.N.W. and thus causes the numerous ripplings and short uneasy sea so often met with at the entrance of the gulf. This troubled water will be found more or less to the southward, accord- ing to the strength of the .contending streams. FASSAOBS. — Bound to Panama: — From the foregoing it will be s en that the passage from southward into the gulf of Panama is easily made during the vf'eater part of the year, by keeping about 60 miles from the coast north of Guayaquil, and after crossing the Line shaping a courso for Galera island, at the same time taking care, especially 'n the dry season, to stand in-shore with the first northerly winds. By so doing vessels will most probably have the current in their favour along the coast ; whereas by keeping in the centre or on the western side of the gulf, a strong southerly set will be experienced. After making Galera and clearing the San Jose bank, the navigation between the Pearl islands and the main is clear and easy, with the advantage of being able to anchor, should the wind fail and the tide be against the vessel. As a rule, this passage should be taken, but with a strong southerly wind, the navigator is teupted to run up the bay, in which case he should keep towards the western shore of the Pearl islands, where anchorage and less current will he found should the wind fail, an event always to be expected in these regions. Vessels bound to Panama from northward should make the island of Hicaron, which lies about 50 miles westward of Mariato point, and from this endeavour to keep under the land as far as cape Mala. If unable to do this, they should push across for the opposite coast of the continent, when the current will bo found in their favour. On getting eastward of cape Mala the safest plan is to shape a course for Galera island and to use the eastern passage. At the same time, if tempted up the gulf by a fair wind, vessels should endeavour to get on the western coast of the Pearl islands, which have the advantages already explained. Bound from Panama. — The great dilliculty, however, is the passage out of, or rather from Panama bay. The best plan for sailing vessels, whether br un " north or south from Panama, is to push to the southward and gain tlie South-east tr ulo ; by so doing they will not only avoid the doldrums and vexatious winds before described, but will Lave the additional advantage of salubrious weather, with the sea at a temperature of 75° instead of 88° Fahv. The passage northward has boon made by keeping close in shore after passing cape Mala, and navigating by the sea and land breezes ; but this should only bo attempted by vessels that are well found and manned, unless they are bound to the ports of Central America, when it is their only route. 26 PASSAGES FROM THE GULF OF PANAMA. i ■ n The following directions, especially mtended for eailing vessels, are chiefly by Lient. Maury, of the U.S. Navy : — From the bay of Panama a vessel should make the best of her way south until she gets between lat. 5° N. and the equator ; on this course lot her endeavour, if possible, to keep near the meridian of 80° W. From this make a S.W. course if the winds will allow. Should the wind be S.W. stand to the southward, but if S.S.W. stand to the West, if a good working breeze ; but if it be light and baffling, with rain, the vessel may know that she is in the doldrums, the quickest way to avoid which is by getting to the southward. From lat. 2° N., between June and January, vessels may stand off from the coast to the westward, and pass northward of the Galapagos islands, taking care to keep south- ward of 5° N. As far as 85° they will have South and S.S.W. winds ; but after passing that meridian the wind will haul round to the southward, and vessels bound to the South Pacific may consider themselves fairly in the trade. Vessels bound northward, after passing the meridian of 105° may edge away for the Clipperton rock ; after passing which they may push to the northward for the northern trade. Between January and April it may be better to cross the Line between the Galapagos islands and the coast before pushing to the westward. This may probably take a week, which outlay of time, hnwAver. is far preferable to encountering the baffling weather met in that season north of the Galapagos. In this route it must be remembered that southward of lat. 1° N. the wind hauls to the eastward as the vessel leaves the coast, and in the meridian of 88° it is frequently found eastward of South ; but at the same time, vessels in standing off before crossing the equator, must take care to avoid being driven to the northward of that latitude. In fact, there are few passages in which so much depends on the skill and experience of the pilot as in leaving the gulf of Panama. Vessels bound to the northward in the above season should keep south of the Line until westward of 10o°, when a course may be shaped for 10° N. and 120° W., in which track they will probably find the northern trade. The above difficulties will be easily avoided by auxiliary screw steamers, which vessels may at once proceed to the starting points above mentioned. The best plan will be to steam for the meridian of 85° W. on the equator, from which position a course may be shaped, according to their destination, and to the season of the year. From that point their sails will be found to be as powerful as their engines. The following facts will show the singular advantage uf even small steam power in these regions : — In 1859, an indifferent, old, screw steamer, the Columbut, belonging to the Panama Railway Company, had been running with great regularity for upwards of a year botwoon Panama and San Jose de Guatemala, a distance of about 1020 miles, calling at Puuta Arenas, Rcalojo, La Union, and Acajutla, both going and returning, at each place discharging and receiving cargo and mails, — and sailing from Panama on the 17th of every month, and returning to that port on the Gtli of the following ; thus making the round in 19 days. It is estimated that it would take two months for a ahi..^.- sailing vessel under favourable < nmstances to perform the same work. 27 CAPE MALA TO CAPE CORRIENTES. Magnetic Variation in 1879 —At Coiba Island 6' 50' E. ; Oulf of Nicnija 6" 55' E. ; Salinas Bay T 5' E. ; Oulf of Fonseca 7° 10' E. ; Acajutla or Soiisonate Road T 25' E, ; Oulf of Tehuantepec T 50' E. ; Acapulco 8' 20' E. ; Manzanilla Bay 8° 80' E. ; Cape Corrientes d'E. There is little, if any, annual change. The coast from cape Mala trends sharply westward, and continues low so far as Guanico point, a distance of 22 miles. From this point it gradually rises for 7 miles to the Morro Puercos, a lofty headland, which forms the commencement of a range of high coast land. North-eastward of Guanico point is an open bay, into which two small rivers, the Tomosi and Juera, empty themselves.* From Puercos point the coast trends 27 miles to Mariato point, a bold headland at the termination of the high land of which Morro Puercos is the commencement. This point is a good landfall for vessels boand to Panama from westward, as by keeping under the land eastward of it they will avoid the southerly current setting from the gulf. Frailes. — These are two low barren islets situated 11 miles south-westward from capo Mala, and about 18 miles north-eastward from Puercos point. They are distant from each other 2 miles in a N.N.W. \ W. and S.S.E. ^ E. direction, and are clear of outlying dangers, with the exception that a reef extends out about a cable from the north-west point of the southern islet. The depth within half a mile of them is 20 to 80 fathoms. At 18 miles westward from cape Mala is a projecting point named Raia, off which is an islet and reef of rocks, known as the Benado. At about midway between the rivers Juera and Tomosi, is a patch of rooks at a short distance from the shore. A reef, 8 fathoms under water, lies about 8 miles north-eastward from Puercos point, and another, above water, is distant 4 miles westward from the point ; the latter is at about a mile from shore. Thence to Mariato point, the soundings are very deep, as at 8 miles from the shore the bottom is not reached with a lino of 100 fathoms. From Mariato point the coast trends 5 miles north-westward to Naraujas island, a rocky but wooded islet lying about half a mile off a bluff ; it is steep, with 10 and 20 fathoms at a short distance from it. Northward of this islet the low laud again com- mences, and continues into the bay of Montijo. MOHTZjo BAT.->From point Mariato the coast trends N.N.W. 20 miles to the eastern entrance of a largo bay, named Montijo. This bay extends northward about 14 miles, with an average breadth of miles, and is fronted by two islands, Cobaco and Gobornador, of which the former is the larger and southernmost. Witlin the bay, pear its head, is an islaud named Leones, having on each side of it a river accessible * In this bay vessolB oooasionally anohor, with tho wind from tho land, near the islet Benado, Bud obtain froBh-wator from thu river Juera. As the anchorage is exposed to southerly winds, it can be oousidered uuly u temporary stopping place. 28 BAHIA HONDA. only by boats. The bay is of little value to shipping, the soundings in it being ex* tremely irregular, and over the greater part of its surface only 10 to 12 feet ; hence it is but seldom visited. Oebaeo is an island of irregular shape, 13 miles long in a N.E. by E. I E. and S.W. ^y W. i W. direction, and 3 miles wide at its eastern end, its broadest part. Some detached rocks lie off its western end ; and a sunken rock lies abont a mile from its eastern point, leaving no safe channel between. When entering the bay by this, the east channel, it is necessary on account of this sunken rock to keep nearer to the main than the island, — in steering thus the depth will be 12 to 10 fathoms ; continue now in a north-westerly direction and pass St. Juan rock, distant about 1^ miles from the land, on its west side ; -the depth will novr have decreased to 4 fathoms ; hence to the east side of Leones island the passage is < westward of several rooks lying off the shore, in soundings of 6, 7, and 9 fathoms. oobaraador island, between the west '^nd of Cebaco and the main, is abont 1^ miles in extent, and divides the western entrance of Moniijo bay into two channels, either of which can be taken, although the northernmost is the better, being wider and less ex- posed to the strong outward current from the bay. The depth in the southern channel is 9 to 7 fathoms, and in the northern 16 to 6 fathoms. When the bay ia fairly entered, vessels of light draught may anchor on its west side, and find good shelter from almost all winds. When tacking in Montijo bay the utmost caution is necessary on account of the shoal of 12 feet which extends the whole length of the bay and connects the northern side of Cebaco island with Leones island. This shoal occupies a large part of the sur- face of the bay, and leaves but a narrow channel on each side of it. BAHIA HONDA. — From Montijo bay to the entrance of Bahia Honda the distance is 20 miles in a W. by N. i N. direction, and the shore between is rugged with several islets and rocks ofif it. At the distance of 2 miles from the land the soundings are 27 to 35 fathoms, the latter being in the vicinity of Bahia Honda. In the event of running from one bay to the other,, the coast should have a berth of not less than 8 miles. The bay consists of an inlet nearly 8 miles in extent in a N.E. direction, and about 2 miles broad, in which are soundings of 20 to 10 and 4 fathoms. It affords shelter from all winds, and a birth may be selected according to circnrastances in almost any part of it. The head of the bay, north-cast from Talon Island (subsequently men- tioned) is shallow, but may be safely approached by the lead. When running in it is only necessaiy to keep in mid-channel. The entrance does not stand out with sufficient prominence to be distinguished from a great distance, but a near approach reveals it with distinctness. The north point, Guarida, is bold, with a dopth of 14 to 10 fathoms close to tlie rocks at its base. The south point, capo Jabali, has two islets off it, named Scntinela and Cuui. of which the former is the larger and northernmost ; these islands nro connected by a sunken reef, and there in a narrow passage between them and the shore only suitable for boats.* * TUe French olmrt No. 1703 shows a detached sunken reef at about one-sixth of a mile north- eastward of Scntinela island. Although this rent does nut appear on the English (Admiralty) chart No. 1929, it may possibly exist, and should therefore be carefully guarded against. BAHIA HONDA. 20 Within the bay and immediately facing the entrance is Talon island, having two small islets close to its west side, of which the larger aud nortberninost is named Pueril ; the island close to its south end is named Espuela. Talon island is about 120 feet high, and divides Bahia Honda into two parts, known as Chiuche and Legamo bays ; Chinche bay is west of the island. Only vessels of very light draught can pass round the north end of Talon island. In 1854, the island was inhabited by some Indian families, from whom were procured eggs, fowl, and various kinds of fruits, and as the bay affords abundance of excellent fish, such could also without doubt have been obtained from them. Fresh-water can be procured here in great abundance and especially from a stream named Cobre, which falls into tl j south-east part of the harbour, and can be ascended some distance in a canoe. There is a watering place on the sooth side of the bay, S.S.E. from Talon island ; a boat may in calm weather anchor alongside it and obtailn supplies by means of a long hose. Very good water may also be procured from a cascade outside the harbour, on the north shore, at about 1^ miles from point Guarida. It has been mentioned that anchorage can be obtained in almost any part of Bahia Honda, but that which is perhaps the most convenient for large vessels is westward of Talon island, in Chinche bay, in about 14 fathoms water. The only known dangers in the vicinity of this anchorage are a sunken rock of 8 feet at 1^ cables northward of point Guarida, and a reef at about the same distance north-westward from Fueril island. Tides : — When the French surveying vessel Oiligado was at Bahia Honda, in 1854, the tidal observations showed the flood aud ebb to have nearly equal strength, of the two the ebb preponderating. High water at full aud change 8h. 80m., and the sea rose 1\\ feet. Making Bahia Honda. — Coiba island and the little island Afuera (between Coiba and the main) immediately face Bahia Honda, hence these islands will be first seen from whatever quarter tho ba; is made. At about 2 raWet from the harbour are two islands named Medidor and Pacor ;■ . tuated off the north shore, of which the former is the larger, of moderate height aud nearer the laud ; these islands must be left io northward when running for .he bay. The entrance is by no means difficult, but it is recommended to avoid the southern headland because of the reefs surrounding Seu- tinela aud Cono islands. heaving Bahia Honda. — The most convenient time for leaving Bahia Honda is during the morning, because then advantage can be taken of the East and N.E. winds. If these winds ara weak it may bo necessary to haul the vessel out by the boats. Monita and Bosario Bays. — The coast from Bahia Honda northward, a distance of 10 miles, is very irregular and forms several bays, of which those named Monita, Bosario and Pajaro are the principal. Th« first mentioned bay is immediately north- ward of point Ventana, 2 miles from Medidor island ; it has an islet covered with trees in its northern part close to tho shore, aud affordc good anchorage and shelter only with winds from the land, being exposed to all others. Nortli of Mouita bay is Bosario bay, which will be easily recognised by an islet near its middle, at about a mile from * Named Truoha in Sir Edward fielohor's (R. N.) chart, No. 192'J. !'*' i 30 PUEBLO NUEVO. if tbe shore, named Maela h Caballo ; thia bay is bonndcd on the north by point Maerto and on the south by point Gorda, between which ia a projecting point dividing the bay into two parts, the southern of which takes the name of Pivay, — in each of these little bays is a river. As Rosario bay is exposed to westward, the anchorage is safe only with winds from the land. Pajaro bay, immediately northward of that of Rosario, has a depth of 16^ fathoms, and is also unsafe with winds from westward. All this coast is free from danger at a moderate distance off. The shore from Pajaro bay northward for a distance of 9 miles ia fronted by a bank of 6 to 18 feet which extends out about 2 miles. The edge of this bank being very steep renders the utmost caution necessary in approaching; at night a depth of 22 to 16 fathoms will be quite near enough; — usually, the sea breaks heavily upon it. At the south end of this bank ia the river Lavenia, and at the north end the river Tava- sera; the latter is not barred. WEBLO ifinivo. — At about 8^ miles northward of the Tavasera is point Cayado, the south side of entrance to the river of Pueblo Nn '"o. The entrance to this river may be at once recognised by the peculiar formatio' he hills between it and Tava- sera river, which are 800 to 400 feet high, and app . two islets from a distance. A hill 650 feet high, and having the form of a sugar-loaf, situated close to the shore on the north side of the river, is also a good landmark. In front of the entrance, almost due West from it, are two islets named Silva and Silva de Afhera, of which the latter is the westernmost ; these are also good marks for the river. In the entrance to the river are two large marshy islands formed of the soil brought down by floods; these are named Espartal and Porcada, — the latter is the southern- most. The channel between the islands is too shallow, and too much obstructed by shoals to be navigated except at high tide, and then only by boats, the entrance to the river is consequently south of the islands between them and point Cayado, and is about three-quarters of a mile wide ; the channel north of the islands is also unnavigable. The depth in the principal channel, in 1854, was G to 8 fathoms at low tide, and it was then sheltered on the north aide by the Belitre bank, partially dry when the tide was out, extending westward from the south end of Porcada. Immediately within or eastward of this bank is a rocky islet named Perdono. The best time to enter the river of Pueblo Nuevo is during the flood and with the wind from seaward. Special care ia required on account of the shoal extending aea- ward from Porcada islet, the limits of which are indicated by breakers while there is any sea. Having entered, steer for Perdono islet and pass it on its south side ; the depth hereabout will be 4} fathoms, deepening to G^ and 7 fathoms, fine sand. Good anchorage may be found ioimediately southward \.>i Perdono islet, in 4 to 6 fathoms water. Perdono islet is steep and safe to approach; it may bo rounded (1854), but there will be little occasion to go north of it, the chanuel south of it being wide and the main body of the river. In the event of going north of it, keep close to it on account of the shoal from Porcada island. Tbe depth eastward of the south point of Porcada island is very irregular, and frequently does not exceed 8} fathoms ; hence it is not a con- venient anchorage for large vessels, but for small vessels drawing less than IG feet it PUEBLO NUKVO. 81 offers the advantage of being well shut in and protected from almost all windp. According to the inhabitanta, westerly winds, freqnent from Jane to October, occasionally send into the river a very heavy sea, which caases considerable inconvenience to vespels anchored near Perdono island ; at such times it will be advisable to ran farth( r into the river, and obtain shelter under the south-east side of Porcada, — the best passage is westward of Conejo, an island situated about a mile from Perdono. The village of Paeblo Nuevo is at some distance within the river, and such is the difficulty of the navigation 1>hat it is necessary to be guided to it by a native. Here, although it is but a small place, almost all kinds of provisions can be obtained in con- siderable quantities.* The best time to leave the river is when the land-wind is blowing and a little before the end of the flood. Steer so as to give point Cayado a berth of about a cable, and pass southward of the islands Silva and Silva de Afuera, after which such a course ' may be run as may be convenient. If necessary, a vcoctel may run between the two Silvas, but the channel eastward of the easternmost islet is safe only for those that draw 10 to 15 feet ; an isolated rock off the north-west side of Porcada, at three- quarters of a mile from shore, must be carefully avoided. Tbe north end of Silva island has a shoal extending from it nearly a mile. Tides. — It is high water full and change at 8b. 44m. The tide apparently rises 8 to 9 feet. The foregoing description of the river of Paeblo Nnevo is based chiefly upon the observations of the French surveying vessel Ohligado in 1854. According to the chart of Sir Edward Belcher, B.N., 1859, a spit of 2^ fathoms runs off about a cable from the west side of point Cayado, and on the south side of the point are some rocks close to the shore, named Nueces, which are above water. The shoal extending northward from Silva island has not more than 10 feet on its extremity, and as it nearly joins the sandy spit jutting out from the north end of Porcada island, the channel north of the island cannot be considered safe. The soundings between the Silva islands are 9 to 12 fathoms, the latter being near Silva de Afuera. Sir Edwai-d Belcher says, " the port consists of the outlet of a largo river, which takes its name fr-om a small village of huts, situated on the river Santiago, at some distance from the entrance. It is formed by a neck or island about 8 miles in length, which affords good anchorage for vessels of any class. Three larger streams discharge themselves into the main basin at the western end of this inland, where the apparent great entrance is situated ; but so studded with rooks and shoals, as to be unnavigable for anything larger than boats. It is in fact, an extensive archipelago, as most of the regions towards the Chiriqui territory will be found to be on future examination. Water cannot be procured in any quantity, although it may probably be procured by digging Wills. The principal article of trade was sarsaparllla, that of this neighbour- hood being esteemed of superior quality. The stream runs fresh at some miles up, but we did not either meet it, or succeed in finding the town. Sugar-cano, of good It is said that the serpents in tbe various islands of tbe river, and also in tbo maruhy lanri im- mediately bordering it, ore of a veuomoaa obarooter. 82 SAN LOREVZO AND DAVID BAYS. quality, rii|;e iiliilily woulil be able to ovi'rronio willi ciise. The proposed route was from Almiraiitebay on the north side ol'thi' iHlbnius, to David bay on the smtth nide, taking thn city of David on Mio way ; hence veHsels would have a shcllercd ancliornKf at each terminuH. A lied of coal uf oousidorabij vhIuo Iravcrsea the whole dlHlanoo. W- 1 11 1 • Si BOCA CHICa and PARIDA ISLAND. inlet, known aa Ghneltogal bay. Flaja G^rande has not beea closely examined, and is reported to have many sunken reefs in it ; tho eounflliugs over its surface are probably 4 to 8 fathom?. The country behind Chuchegal bay affords abundaat pasturage for cattle. Boea obioa, the narrow channel between Paino and Yentana islands, is 8^ miles W.N.W. from Juco point, and is the only entrance to the river David practicable for vessels, which must be of very light draught, there being at low tide only G to 10 feet water in some parts of it. Boca Chica may be r^ogniscd by the rocks of Ventana island, which have been pierced by the sea. On the eatit side of the entrance is a rock named Lavandera, an isolated danger visible except near high wat^r, situated about 1^ sable? southward from Saino island, and which must be carefully guarded against, thero being a depth of 4 and 6 fathoms close to its south side. At the village of Boca Chica (also known as Puerto de San Lorenzo), on the north side of the river and 8i miles from the sea, the usual articles of provision can bo procured, such as poultry, eggs, fruits, vegetables, &c. Meat cannot be ohiaincd in any quantity, but cattle can be oought without ditllculty. Fresh water of excellent quality can be got from the stream immediately east of the village. Tiden. — It is high water on the days of fall and cbaugo of the moon at Boca Chica at 8h. 15m. The rise of tide is about lOj feet. During the Ohlii/ado'a visit, the flood at the anchorage outside the cnirauce was observed to Aow N.N.W., and the ebb the contrary, with an average strength of 1 milo per hour, which diminished in foico towards the San Joso and Monitas islands. Within the entrance and in the river, the current was much more violent. When leaving David bay, if obliged to go westward of the San Joso islands, it is recommended to approach nearer those islands than to Palenque, because of the rocks extending from the latter ; the dopth in the channel between is G and 7 f&thoms. In the French chart No. 281G a sunken rock of 11,^ feet is inserted at about half-a-milo westward of the south part of the San Jos«'> islets. Having cleared thi:^ sunken rock, a wide berth should be given to some rocks situated 1 i miles almost due South from the San Josu islets ; the depth throughout is 8 and fiithoms. rarlda islanA. — This is an island of irrc;»ulrtr shape, 8] miles long in a N.N E. and S.S.W. direction, and about 1.^ miles wide in its broiulest part, it is well wooded and there are rivulets affording abundance of wuler. Nuuiurons islets, having among them many sunken reefs, are scattered uhout on its oiiHt and south-east sidci to the distance from it of 8 to 1 miles, the largest (and almost furtliost to seaward) of which is named Boiano ; these islets and reefs make the approach to David bay from south- westward a proceeding of some little risk. Among the islets and reefs there aro doubtless chauuols which might be navigated in boats, but vessels must keep outside them, as they havo not boon closely exnniincd. The only commodious anchorngc near I'arida island is at its north-east end, under protection of uu island which offords shcUer from soiitliwnrd ; the depth is (»i falhonia on mud, and thero is a little sandy bay wliore a landing can bo effected. If from David bay, vessels may pass either on the west or south sides of Han Joso islands ; if the former, it is necessary in the boards to westward to tack iniiiMHliately tlio depth becomoa 4j fathoms. If this anchorage bo approached from seaward, steer for thu Viuda rock, POINT BURRICA AND COIBA ISLAND. 85 aad, passing it at the distanco of aboct Ij miles on the west siJo, direct yonr course for the San Jose islands ; leave these islands to the northward, and then steer for the north end of Parida island, maintaining a dopth of 7 to G fathoms, but decrensing to 8i fathoms as the anchorage is approached ; — wten it deepens again to GJ fathoms, Anchor. The lead should be kept going, and a good look-out kept for any undiscovered sunken rocks. At this end of Ptirida plenty of good water may be obtainoi. Cldmiiio bay, — At the south-west end of Parida island is a little bay named Chimmo, where is a depth of 10 to 2.J fathoms ; good fresh-water may bo obtained here. In front of the bay is a little islet known by the name of Santa Cruz ; the passage in is north of this islet, because some rocks extend from it southward to the shore. A reef also runs off southward a shoit distance from some islets on the north side of the bay^ When Bailing round tho south-woat point of Parida island, it should have a berth of about; a mile, on account of some sunken rocks, half a mile from it, which have a depth of 15 and Ifl fathoms cKise to them. From Purida island northward lo the archipelago of islotsfrontir,^ tho coast, there is» with the exception of a narrow channel of 8 to 3| faJioms close round tlio nortli ud of the island, a bed of rocks through which there may be channels fit for boats. Tho sea usually break- upon these reofn when there is any wind, Point Burrica. — From th<' south end of Parida island to tho extremity of point Buri'i tho bearing and distance are W. by S. i S. 84 miles. Tho coast between forma aliirgt, <,,y which recedes 20 miles from a supnDsed line connecting tbuse points. Tho shore in the nast pnif of the bay oonsists if low islands forming tb. delta of il;3 rivor David. Tho prj'iiupui entrance to the river, tho Boca Han Pedro, is between Hevillia and Bau Pedro islands, and a« alreuiy noticed is impracticablo for vossola. ISovillia is the easternmost island ; it abounds with i;aiuo of various kinds, which can easily be obtained. San Pedro is the wmtorumo!-. ifilio luige islands if the river ; from this island the coant trends westvard and southward to point Burrica, and along the northorn shore are met with in succession the rivers Piodra, Pinos and Bartolomo. In all this bay thero is no sheltered roadstead, nor does it possess any advantage which fihould make it a placo of resort l'<'i- \ ols. OOXBA xsZiAns. — Thi < is t! rgcst island off the coast between ]\Iariato and Burrica points, as it is 19 miles long in a N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. direction, and about 12 miles wide in its broadest part. It is covered with forests, and there ia abnndance of good water in every part. Vessels may anchor off it on all sides '''na( fine weather, but uul'ortunately it possesses no bay nor harbour in which shelter m ,., bo obtained from all winds. As it is at present (1851) uniuhabitod, it is seldom visited. It was suivoyed in IBifl by Lieut. Wood, K.N., and a chart (No. Iij28) of it was subsequently published by the yVdiniralty. To this chart we nmst refer the reader, for tho variou'^ details of its const and outlying reefs. The western coast ofCoiba ishuul appears, from tho survey, to be of moderato height, and bold, and there are no known dangers outside those abutting on lliu shore. At about halfway down thero is an open bay, mimed Uermosa, in which is a depth of 20 to 14. fathoms. Ou the eastern coast of tho island is Danias bay, C ur U miles in extent, which i> 2 80 COIBA ISLAND. affords a good depth of water and excellent shelter from westward. The Bonndings arc from 30 to 15 t'lthoms, shoaling to the shore ; and water may be obtained in the northerL part of the bay. Good holding ground, mud, will be found 5 or 6 mileso AT shore, in 80 to 85 fathoms. Off the southern shore of the bay rocky slioals extend nearly a mile out, so that care is required to avoid them. Tu the middle of the bay the land is low, and hove there is a small stream, named San Juan, at the entrance to which are some sandy flats. Few vegetables or fruits are to bo found hero, but shell-fish may be bad in plenty ; there ore also other fish to bo caught. Whales sometimes frequent these shores, but not in any great numbers. Wild beasts, birds and reptiles ai'c said to abound, hence a visit to the island should bo conducted with caution. In the account of Lord Anson's voyage, by Richard Walter, published in 1776, thero" is a description of Coiba island, in the following terms. It should be premised that the anchoring place of the squadron was in Damas bay : — ■ " The island of Coiba is cxti'emely convenient for wooding and watering, since the trees grow close to the high-water mark, and a largo rapid stream of fresh water mn8 over the sandy beach into the sea : so that wo were little more than two days in laying in all the wood and water we wanted. The whole island is of a very moderate height, excepting one part. It consists of a continued wood spread all over the whole surface of tho country, which preserves its verdure all the year round. Amongst other wood, we found abundance of cassia, and a few lime trees. It appeared singular to ns, that, considering the climate and the shelter, we should soe no other birds than parrots, paroquets, and mackaws ; indeed, of these last there were prodigious flights. Next to these birdn, the animals we found in most plenty, were monkeys and iguanas, and these wo frequently killed lor food ; for, notwithstanding there were many herds of deer opon the place, the ditRciilty of penetrating the woods prevented our coming near them ; so that, though wo saw thorn often, wo killed only two during our stay. Our prisoners assured us that this island abounded with tigers ; and we did once discover the print of a tiger's paw upon the beach, but the tigern themselves wo never saw. The Spaniards, too, informed us, that there was frequently found in the woods a serpent, called tho flying snake, which, they said, darted itself from tho boughs of trees, on either man or beast that came within its reach ; and whose sting they belicvow to be inevitable death. Bosidei these dangerous land auimais, iho sea hereabout is infested with numbers of alligators of enormous size. Whilst tho ship (Centurion > mtiuued hero at anchor, tho Connnodoro, attended by some of his officers, went in a boat to exaniine a bay which lay to the northward ; and they afterwards ranged all along tho eastern side of tho island ; and in the places where they put "on shore, in tho cours(5 of this expedition, tlieylgenerally found tho soil to bo extremely rich, and met with great plenty of excellent water. In iturticuliir, near tho north-east puint of tho island, tlii7 dineovered a natural casr^ule, which Rurpassod, as they conceived, everything of this kind they had over soon. It was u river of clear water, about lOyards wide, which rolled down a declivity nearly 150 feet in longth. All tho uoighbourliodd of this stream was a lino wood, and cvon tho huge masses of rock which overhung the water, and whieh, by their various projections, formed tho iu- cqualitios of tho channel, wore covered with lofty forest trees." HICARONS, RANCHERIA, &c., CONTRERAS. 87 Bear-Admiral Sir Greorgo Seymoar has remarked of Coiba island, " It is about the same size as tho Islo of Wight. Off the points, ledges of rocks generally extend ; but there is an appearance of an anchorlug-place in the intervening bays on tho east side, along which I proceeded in tho Sampson steam-vessel. The soil on the coast is good, bat the interior is nearly inaccessible from tho steepness of the cliffs and tangled vegeta- tion. We found traces of pearl-divers having visited tho shores ; but there ai"e no inhabitants (1847) except at tho small islet of Rancheria, between which and the north- cast end of Coiba there is good anchorage. A Frenchman, of the name of Sorget, is resident on Rancheria ; and this situation, as far as I could judge on a cursory view, seems more favourable for an establishment than any wo saw ou the larger island." Tides. — When Coiba island was visited by navigator Colnett, in 1794, the flood came from north v^ard, flowing seven hours and ebbing Ave, and tho perpendicular riso of the tide was 2 fathoms. Btearons. — Southward of Coiba are tho Hicarons, two small islands lying north and south of each other, being separated by a narrow channel. The small island, the southernmost, about a milo in extent, is entirely covered with cocoa-trees ; and the large one, 3J miles long, bears an equal appearance of leafy verdure, but there are very few trees of tbo cocoa kind. Hicaron is 830 feet high, and tho most extensive look-out, says Captain Colnett, is from tho top of this island, for it commands Coiba and the whole of tho coast and bay to tlio northward. Tho small island is known as Ilicarita. Tho approximate geographical position of tho south point of tho southern- most island is lat. 7" 12' 10 ", long. 81° il.' The channel between Hicaron aiul Coiba is about 4 miles wide, o,nd has an irregular depth of 6 to 10 fathoms. It is cKnir of sunken rocks ; but as there aro somo dangers uoar the south-east point of Coiba, it will bo moro prudent to pass southward of the islands than to attempt the passage within theui. Tho principal danger to be avoided is tho Hill rock, a small patch of feet water, lying 2 miles H. } E. from llarca island, a small islet close to the shore of Coiba, and 5i miles E. ■] N. from David point, tho eastern point of Uicaron island ; close to this rock are soundings of 10 to 15 fathoms, 80 that it is very dangerous. B«nota«ria, ftc. — Oil' tho north-oast point of Coiba island aro several islets and rocks. Tho largest islet, named Rancheria, is IJ miles in length, and lies about IJ miles from tho shore, from which it is separated by a channel of 7 and 8 fathoms, but, as thoro are sovoral rocks in this psissiigo, it will not bo prudent to attempt to run througli. i= North-eastward of this, about 4^ miles, aro two smaller islets, named Afuora and Afuerita, which aro surrounded (for a very short distance) by rocks. A reef extends from tho south-cast point of At'uorti. tho larger island, about 2 cables ; at its extremity is a black rock, almoxt covenul at lii^'li tide. Contraraa. — Tliis group is about it) inilos northward from Coiba, and is composed of two principal islands surrounded by many small islets and rocks. Tho northern island is named Uriucanco, tho southern Pajaros. Among them thoro is no good anchor- i ft • Tliero in good aiifiliornun H.H.1'1. of RuiiolKrm, opiKiHito a munly l)i'n(*li, wlioiicp wood and water OAU be oaitily pruciirud from tliu iBliiiid. Honiu Biiollcr is fiiriiiiilRHl by ii liitjli vumid iHlniid. 88 GULF OF DULCE, Ac. I age. The OlUgado anchored north of Brincanco in 1854, opposite a little bay in which were anchored the boats of some pearl and tnrtle fishers, and foand the battom very bad for holding, although composed of gravel. Vessels may approach the Gontreras without hesitation if due precaution be taken, as it is believed that there are no sunken dangers among them, the positions of which are not shown by breakers. The soundings immediately around them are 30, 85 and 40 fathoms, the latter being close to their south-west side, and there is a clear channel between the two large islands in which the depth is 83, 21, and 84 fathoms. At about 2 miles south from the islands is the Prosper rock, a pinnacle having the appearance of a black tower ; uUhough this roek is steep on all sides, it will be prudent not to' attempt to pass between it and the islands on account uf a reef partially dry at low tide situated about midway in the channel. Peqas. — This group of islets and rocks is situated nearly 15 miles fVom the coast between Pueblo Nuevo aud David bay. About and among them are no known sunken rocks, the positions of which are not usually indicated by breakers. Here there is good shelter for small vessels, and upon some of the islands a landing may be effected, but there is very little inducement to go ashore as no water can be obtained. If the approach of night or failure of wind oblige a vessel in their vicinity to anchor, the best anchorage is in 10 to 12 fathoms on sand. At about 3 miles eastward from the Sooas is a dangerous rock named Bruja, which is almost awash at low tide. T4ie position of this reef makes it a very formidable danger, especially at night ; there are souuJIugs of 20 to 21 fathoms close around it. BKontaosa. — This little island is situated about 22 miles westward from Coiba island, its approximate geographical position being hit. 7° 28', long. 82° 14.J^'. It rises to a considerable height, ami has its summit covorod with cocoa and other trees. A narrow roof, above and under water, extends from it about 3 miles in a north-westerly direction, aud a reef also runs otf from its soutli-oast side. Oaptain Colnett landed here in 1794. He mentions that the bottom on the south side of the island, aud also the shore near the Hoa is rocky. A sandy beach was found behinu iomo little crcoka between the rocks which all'orded a safe landing fur boats. Ziadronas. — These are two islands situated about 15 miles southward of Parida island, their approximate geographical position being about hit. 7° 52', long. 82° 25'. They are barren, of modorato height, aud together are not more than a mile in extent. They should bo approached with caution as sunken rocks may exist in their vicinity. The only known dangers aro some rooks about a mile uoi'thward of thorn, aJid a roof is reported to lie 4 or 5 iniloR from them in the same direction, upon which at low tide is a depth of only Ofoot; as tlie jmsition of this lultor is uncertain, and as it is only shown by breakers when there is a stifl' breeze, it must be very carefully guarded against. ovi^r or DULOB,— Point b..«i»«, tiio extremity uf the laud on the south-east side of the gulf of Dulce, appears like uu island at adlstanco, and maybe readily recognised, whether seen from south-westward or south-eastward. It advances seaward consider- ably from the main hind, and its summit rises into three hills of apparently equal height and distance from eacli other. A nearer approach brings into view the low point which tecniinatus it ; this also rcsemblus an island from a distance. At rather uuoro than a GULF OF DULCE. 89 mile from its extremity is a high isolated rock, serving as an excellent object for recog- nition when making the laud from seaward ; in the channel between, and also around this rock are breakers, upon which account it will be prudent for vessels to give it a wide berth. Point Burica is sufficiently lofty to be seen in clear weather from a distance of about B5 miles ; in its vicinity the flood tide sets N.W. with some strength, hence it is recommended to avoid being becalmed on its south-east side. From point Burica the coast trends about 12 miles in a north-westerly direction to point Platanal, at the entrance to the gulf of Dulce. It is bold throughout, especially at point Platanal, where the mountain immediately over it rises to the height of 2,330 feet, and faces the sea in an almost perpendicular' cliff. This mountain is succeeded in a northerly direction by a moderately flat country, not visible from a distance, hence the cause of the land between points Burica and Platanal appearing like an island from seaward. It is said that in all this coast there is but one place where a landing can be effected, and that is in a little rocky creek into which a rivulet falls. With a westerly wind it will be advisable to give the coast just described a wide berth. Although not absolutely unsafe, the sea in its vicinity is very deep and rocky. At 2 miles from the land the lead fails to touch the bottom, sounding 80 fathoms, and with a strong wind from south-westward breakers of extreme violence are to be met with in-shore. For these reasons, vessels bound into the gulf of Dulce are advised to bear away for cape Matapalo, the western side of the gulf, after making point Burica ; within the cape is good anchorage and a more moderate depth of water.* The gulf of Dulce extends into the Innd about 40 miles in a north-westerly direction, with an average width of 14 to 10 miles. It is but little fretjuented, and until 1852 was almost unknown to Europeans ; at that time its population consisted only of 12 to 15 families located at point Arenitas, on the west side of the gulf. Its soil is extremely fertile, and it is asserted that its navigation is by no means difficult. It possesses numerous excellent anchorages, and there are no known sunken dangers at a greater distance from the land than a mile, with the exception of the bank facing the river Goto, on the east shore, at about 15 miles within the entrance ; this is the principal danger in the gulf, but as the sea almost always breaks upon it, and its position is well indicated by the soundings in its viciuity, there is but little difficulty in avoiding it. Cap* Katapaio, on the west side of the entrance to the gulf of Dulce, is high, pre- cipitous and covered with trees ; whore the trees have fallen on the steep slopes the soil has a reddish appearance. This cape is the south-east'^rn termination of the high laud Sal-si-puodes, which can be seen from a considerable distance ; hence, with the high land terminating at point Burica, the situation of the gulf of Dulce is well marked. At about a milo from the capo in an E.S.E. direction there is a rock 10 to 12 foot high, known as Matnpalo rock, which stands out promiuently from the coast, and when viewed from south-westward or north-eastward, appears very conspicuously ; it is safo tu approach, but as there are breakers between it and the land, vessels should always i * It is probable that the width of the eutrdii e to the gulf ia not bo great as represented ou the charts. The distance between point Platanal and capo Matapalo is reported by many observers to bo not more than 10 miles. 40 GULF OF DULCE. pass it on its south side. The coast on the opposite side of tho gulf is bolioved to bs clear of all outlying dangers, but what are visible. All the western shore of the gulf consists of a flat well wooded country, sandy to tho village of Arenitas, and afterwards alluvial. At about 6 miles northward from Mata- palo rock is point Sombrero, from which a reef extends about half a mile ; and 8 miles farther in the same direction is Tigrito point, also having a reef from it to the distance of three-quarters of a mile— these reefs are the only known dangers on the western side of the gulf which vessels have to fear in the approach to Arenitas from southward. Punta Arenitaa. — At about 9 miles from Tigrito point is Punta (or point) Arenitas^ a low sandy projection of the coast, the greater part of which ia covered with trees. The houses which formerly stood on its extremity have been destroyed by an earth- quake, and the inhabitants, numbering about 400, have established themselves a little iarther north and have named their village Santo Domingo. At about a cable east- ward from the point, is a coral bank, which partially di'ies at low tide ; this bank has an extent of only 2 cables from cast to west, and as its eastern edge is so steep that Boandings of 14 to 12 fathoms may be obtained close to it, more than ordinary care is required when approaching the point. Small vessels may pass between this bank and the shore, the narrow channel having a depth in it of IG to 13 feet ; it is necessary to use tho lead. When approaching Punta Arenitas from cape Matapalo, tho sea is too deep for anchor^ age until point Tigrito is approached, tho average soundings being 35 to 80 fathoms. Oflf this point (Tigi-ito) is anchorage in 13 to 16 fathoms, sand and sliolls ; or farther out in about 20 fathoms, green mud. At Punta Arenitas thei-e is anchorage either N.W. or S.E. of tho point ; tho latter is preferable if it be intended to remain only a short time, on account of its exposure to the sea breeze and the consequent freedom from the excessive heat felt northward of the point. The best position for anchoring south-eastward of the point ia at about a mile from the laud in 10 to 12 fathoms, green mud, with the flagstaff (1852) bearing W. by N. i N., and point Tigrito S. J E. The anchorage north-westward of the point is very good, and convenient for efitcting general repairs; but, if it be nooessai'y to heel tho vessel over, tho Golfito, on the eastern side of the gulf, will bo found a far more suitable pluco. Tho depth is 16 fathoms at a third or half a mile from the laud, on greeu mud ; eastward and north- ward of this position the soundings are 33 to 55 fathoms. The landing place at Punta Arenitas is on its north side, at tho entrance to a little creek which is dry at low water. The point is almost as steep as a quay. No water can bo obtained hero to supply a vessel, but suflicicut may bo got from tho river Tigre, 5 miles north-westward from it ; when oft" this river it is advisable to send ashore at half-flood, that tlie stream may bo ascended as far as possible, and it is recommended to leave tho river at halt'-obb ; because tho sea fulls rapidly. It is high water at Punta Arenitas on the days of full and change of the moon at 3h. 15m.; tho highest rise of tide observed was 12 feet. When the Ihillinute was at Punta Arenitas in 18C2, a small quantity of fresh pro- visions was obtained from tlie village. Cattle could only be procured from the hacienda of Tigre. Tho neighbouring forests were ascertained to bo rich in spars, and timber BUttablo for building purposes. Fish was abundant. GULF OF DULCE. 41 Point Tif/re. — From Areuitaa to point Tigro the distance, as before observed, is 5 miles in a north-westerly direction; the coast between, covered with mangroves, is so steep that at about a quarter of a mile from it the depth is 15 to 30 fathoms, on sand. This point is formed by a mud bank, dry at low water, which extends out about half a mile. It is on the north side of tho point that the little river Tigre, already alluded to, falls into the sea. From point Tigre to ElRincon, the head of the gulf, the distance is 17 miles, along a shore destitute of any objects sufficiently remarkable to be mentioned. At 5 miles from the point is the little river Agnja, which has, or had, a hut at its entrance; and 9 miles fi'om this is Palma point, a very slight projection of the land, recognised by its two cocoa-trees, which are the only trees of the kind on all the coast from point Arenitas. The river Rincon is 8^ miles fi'om Palma point; it has two entrances which can only be entered by boats. The soundings between the rivers Tigro and Agnja are not so deep as those south- \rard of Tigre point; but they increase in depth as Palma point is approached, and also towards El Rincon, the head of the gulf. At El Rincon the coast suddenly turns N.E. by E. \ E. and trends in that direction 11 miles, when it changes to E.S.E. and maintains that line of bearing throughout almost the whole of the cast side of the gulf. In a very considerable part of this coast the mountains rise almost from tho sea, and are covered with impenetrable forests ; this description of coast prevails so far as tho GoJfito, when the mountains roccJo from the shore, and are succeeded by an almost flat couutry. At tho head of the gulf, at not more than half a mile from tho north shore, arc some islets, surrounded by coral banks. Eiver Esqmnaa. — On the north-east side of the gulf, distant 4 miles from tho islets just mentioned, is tho small river Esquinas, which falls into the sea through a marshy plain. Fronting it is a bank of mud and eand (soil brought down in rainy seasons), which extends from the shore about 1 ^ miles and is for tho most part dry at low tide. A channel into the river has been reported as existing across this bank, but in 1852 tho bank was dry over tho whole of its extent; there may therefore bo a channel only during £oods in tho interior. From the river Esquinas tho coast trends 4 J miles south-eastward to point Esquinas and is bold all tho way ; tho soundings met with in succession aro 8 to 10 and IG fathoms at a very short distance off it, the latter being close to the point. From this headland to point San Joso the distance is 9V miles in an E. by S. ^ S. direction, passing at about midway a bold projection of tho land ; around point San Joso aro rocks, oif which is a pearl fishery at the depth of GJ to 10 fathoms. From this point to tho entrance of the Golfito the distance is about 4 wiles. When running down the coast from tho islets to the Golfito, it is advisable to give tho shore a good berth, as it has not been very closely examined. The soundings close to the land aro represented as deep, which the mountainous nature of the country in its immediate vicinity would lead one to infer. GoljUo. — This is an inlet of irregular shape running into the coast about 8^^ miles, tbo upper or bouth-oustorn part of which is very shallow. Tho entrance is well defined At 42 POINT SAL-Sl-PUEDES. f on the north side by point Golflto, a high bold promontory having a depth of 6 fathoms close o£f it, and ou the south side by a hill 790 feet high having at its base a low sandy peninsula ; the latter is veiy narrow, andlhas, or had, a few cocoa trees upon it. The entrance is about a third of a mile wide, and is in the direction of N.E. by N. ; at first the depth is 18 to 7 fathoms, being shallowest o£f the southern shore, and thence it gradually decreases to ^ fathoms as the extremity of the sandy peninsula is approached. Immediately within this sandy spit, ou its south side, the soundings are 4^^ to 2 fathoms, and vessels may enter, if caro be taken to use the lead frequently to avoid any shallow spot that may have escaped the detection of the surveyors. If unfortu- nately it be necessary to heel the vessel over to repair, it may be done in the Golfito, as there are many places suitable for that puq)ose. Squalls and heavy rains are very prevalent here. The regular winds of the gulf make the navigation of the channel leading into thd Golfito comparatively easy, and with the land-wind vessels can leave it without diffi- culty. There is anchorage in mid-channel in about 4^ fathoms. If desirous to anchor eastward of the peninsula, it will be advisable not to do so northward of the house on its extremity bearing W. by N. J N. River Colo. — From the Golfito the shore trends 7J miles S.E. by E. to the river Goto, and afterwards 1 5 miles south-eastward and westward to point Banco, the latter portion of coast forming the bay of Pavon; it is low and sandy throughout, and backed by a flat well timbered country. The river Goto is the most considerable stream that falls into the gulf. It is said to have two entrances, C to 6 feet deep with sufficient water therefore for the admission of boats, but fronting it is a bank, already alluded to, which renders approach to the river difficult ; this bau'- extends from shore about 2 miles, and lines the coast northward as far as the entrance to the Golfito, its breadth gradually decreasing as it approaches the sandy peninsula into which it ultimately merges. The sea, even in calm weather, generally breaks on the bank ; hence, although its outer edge is very steep, it can usually be avoided without difficulty. In Pavon bay the soundings at a mile from the shore are 5 to 3 fathoms on sand. Vessels may anchor there, but only in very fine weather, and with the wind from eastward. Point Banco is bold and steep, but not so lofty as point Platanal miles south from it. It is well wooded, and at its base are some rocks too near the laud to be dangerous except to vessels close in shore. At about a mile south from it is a little stream, named Claro. It is advisable to give the coast between points Banco and Platanal a good berth, as it is believed that rocks extend off it a short distance. Point 8ai-Bi-puedes.— From cape Matapalo the coast trends W.N.W. 16 niiljs, and then westward about 4 miles to point Sal-si-puedes, a high precipitous point. It it* low and sandy all the way, but immediately behind, it is high land, visible from a con- siderable distance. Except in very fine weather it is unadvisable to approach this coast closely, tho sea off it being deep, and there being usually extremely heavy breakers upon tho beach ; in somo parts there is no bottom, sounding 60 fathoms, at less than half a mile from the shore. Chonclia relonu . — At about a mile southward from point Sal-si-puedes there is a POINT LLORENA AND CANO ISLAND. 48 iroitnd bare rock nameil Ghoncha Pelona. It is possible that there may be a clear pas- sage between this rock aud the shore, but as such has not been ascertained it will be advisable fur vessels to keep outside it ; it is believed that deep water exists at a very short distance from its south side. Corcovado Rock. — From Sal-si-puedes point the coast trends in a north-westerly direction 14} miles to point Llorena. At about midway between the headlands is the Corcovado rock, which is 88 feet high, and viewed from a moderate offiug, stands oat very prominently from the coast ; it is apparently joined to the shore by a sunken ledge which is probably the seaward termination of a bank fronting the small river Sirena. It will be prudent when passing the Corcovado to give it a wide berth, as the locality has njot been closely examined ; at 1} miles south-westward from it the depth is 14 fathoms, and it is said that there is no bottom at 30 fathoms at a short distance southward from it. When approaehing the Corcovado rock from north-westward, it is strongly recom- mended to avoid the coast between it and point Llorena, as the bottom is extremely irregular, and the low sandy coast presents no prominent marks to prevent a vessel getting too near. Foiat iiiorena. — This is a high, steep, and almost perpendicular headland, well wooded, and partially covered with a luxuriant vegetation ; it will bo easily recognised by a fine cascade which falls from one of its dill's. At a short distance from it are some islets and rocks, some of which are well covered with slirubs. From point Llorena the coast runs miles iu a northerly direction to point San Jose, a bold, bluff headland, having it is believed, deep water at a moderate distance from the rocks at its base ; this point may bo recognised from a good offing by a spot on it bare of trees. At about midway is point San Pedro, a cliffy projection having rocks about it under water. At nearly 1^^ miles from this part of the coast is a little rocky islet, named San Podro, which is covered with trees and has sunken rocks about it extending seaward a cable or more. As this little islet is probably joined to the shore by a rocky ledge, it will be ]>rudeut when running down the coast to keep west- ward of it, giving it at the same time a wide berth. The islet aud reef snelter a little bay under poiut San Pedro, the situation of which, in 1852, was further distinguished by a rock with a single tree on it, and also by the huts of the native Indians. The beach on the south-east side of poiut Sau Jose is bordered with cocoa and banana trees. Boats can land here under the rocks extending from the point. canoialand. — Off this part of the coast, at about 10 miles distance, is the island of Oauo, which is about a mile in extent from E. by N. to W. by S., aud half a mile across. It is covered with trees, and the surfiico of the island is so level, that their sununits present from a distance tlio appearance of almost a horizontal line. Its west extremity is surrounded by a reef under water, extending out, it is considered, about half a mile ; upon account of which, and also because the current sets strongly upon it, vessels should give this end of the island a wide berth ; — so steep is this reef that close to its edge is a depth of 15 fathoms, and at a cable from it 88 fathoms. The north- oast poiut of the islAud has also some rocks about it, above and under water. The lauding place on Cano island is on a sandy beach at its north-west side. Iq e^WMWMiVM. am Ai POIXT MAL\ DE LOS INDIOS. 8t<>rniy woiitlier, with a strong wind from westward, it will be impra-lent to attempt to go on shore, as these winds always bring a heavy sea. In the channel between the island and the shore thero is no known danger. The depth midway is aboat 85 fathoms, which diminishes gradually eastward and westward ; it is perhaps less deep nearer the hmd than the island. When steering from the island southward towards point Llorena the bottom hecomes Tery irregular, as the soundings change suddenly from 27 to 32 faf^oms ; but near the point it again becomes regular. Northward of a supposed line joining the island to point San Jose, the lead brings up a green compact sand ; southward of the line this sand is mixed with fine sand and broken shells. River Aijuja. — Following the shore from point San Jose ahont 3 miles, we meet with the little river Aguja, which can be entered by boats. This is the only stream ca the coast between the gulfs of Dulce and Nicoya, whence water can be obtained with facility. Sierpe Bay. — From the river Agnja, a high wooded shore, trontod by a narrow beach, trends northward 5 miles to Sierpe bay, where is a little river. Thr lay is surrounded by high land, and can be recognised from an offing of 8 miles " " 'arge bare part called the rastrado. The soundings across the entrance to the buy are 16 to 13 fathoms, on green sand of considerable tenacity. The north point of Sierpe bay, named Violine, is a bold and rugged projection of coast. Off it is an islet covered with trees ; around this islet is a sunken rocky ledge, which may possibly extend to the shore, — hecce, vessels "-jliould always pass this islet on its west side, giving it a wide berth. Sacate Islet. — At about 2 miles from Violine islet in a N. by W. direction, is a little islet named Sacate, which is distant nearly 3 miles from the nearest shore. It is believed to be surrounded by a rocky ledge. Voint Mala de loo indios. — From point Violine the coast bends sharply round east- ward and forms the little bay of Violine, into the north side of which the rivers Gunjumal and Matapalo fall. It then trends northerly 19 miles, suddenly turning to the westward near point Mala de los Indios. All this land is low, well-wooded, and in the interior marshy ; it contains several rivers, which, in succession from the Matapalo, bear the Dames of Brava, Chica, aud Goronada. The coast is believed to have no sunken dangers off it, and it is asserted that the soundings in its vicinity are regular, averaging 15 to 10 fathoms at 3 to 2 miles from shore ; the bottom is, however, as might bo expected, ehallower in the immediate neighbourhood of the rivers.* Point Mala de los Indies is bold aud rugged ; at a mile south-westward from it tho depth is 16 fathoms. This pciint is the commencement of some high land, tho Cerro de Ubita, which extends along the coast in a north-westerly direction ; from this circumstance it is easily recognised, and especially too, as tho land eastward and south- ward of it is low. From point Mala de ios Indies the coast trends 7 miles in a north-westerly direction • It is probable that all the rivers on this part of the coast are in some way connected in tho interior, ns it is stated by the natives, that u cauoo outeriug tho river Sierpe, at point Violine, coii rejoin tho roa at point Mula do los Indios. POINTS UBITA, DOMINICATi, QUEPOS, &a. 45 to point Ubitft, niTii is in general bold iimi cl'iffy. At r.ithor more than 9 miles from point ^i.ila do los Indios, ii cluster of rocks iibovc water, named Bullenitn, will be recognised by their pecnliar form, being slender in sh-.ipe and pointed. Outpide these, at a mile more to seaward, is a large i-ock, the Ballona, covered with guano ; it is surrounded by a rocky ledge, w}iich extends from it some little distance in n W.S.W. direction, and should consequently be iipproached with care ; — it is said that the sea always breaks upon this ledge. Point vbita has sonio rocks jutting off from it, and these are followed by a reef, nnder shelter of which, in what is called port Ubita, vessels of any size, it is said, may obtnin shelter. Boats can land here without difficulty, and water may be procured from a river which hero falls into the sea by two mouths, one eastvard and the other westward of the point. Foint sominieai, distant 6^ miles from point Ubita, is easily distingnished by its dark appearance, owing to the peculiar vegetation that covers it. The various projecting points between are well wooded, and there are several creeks of little importance. A wide berth should be given to the coast hereabont as sunken rocks exist, as far out as IJ miles. At 2 miles westward from point Dominical the depth is 20 fathoms, muddy bottom, and here vessels may anchor in fine weather, or nearer the shore, according as it may be convenient ; the ground is good for holding. Foint Qnepos, Aw. — Point Dominical is succeeded by a low sandy coast which trends 17 miles in a W. by N. i N. direction to point Naranjos, a bluff projection, and this again is followed by a low coast for a distance of 4 miles to point Quepos. Ir, this extent there are four rivers, namedDominic&l,Barru, Savagro.and Naranjos, the last mentioned being on the east side of the point of that name ; none of these can, we believe, be ascended for any distance even by canoes. The Saragre is the most important of the rivers, and its banks are the most visited by the Indians. The coast between points Dominical and Naranjos is believed to be clear of sunken dangers. It is stated that vessels may run along it at the distance of 2 miles in a depth of 19 to 24 and 27 fathoms, green mud. A nearer approach than this should not be made, the locality having been only very imperfectly examined. lu the vicinity of Naranjos point is a group of islets, having sunken rocks about them; the largest and easternmost is c^ reddish colour. At a mile outside these islets the depth is 25 to 27 fathoms, mud. Quepos point is of moderate height and covered with trees. On its west side are some rocks situated some distance from the land, under shelter of which boats may anchor. In the immediate neighbourhood of this point, between it and Naranjos point, are some islets of similar character and appearance to those described in the preceding paragraph ; the largest, Manuel Antonio, shelters a umall sandy creek, which is occasionally a resort for turtle fishers. There is no passage between these islets and the land. Point Mala. — Fi'om Quepos point to point Mala or Judat<, the coast trends westerly about 24 miles, and is low and flat the whole distance. At about a mile from Quepos point is the little river Veija ; 2 miles from this ia that of Las Damas ; and 55 miles farther westward is the river Pirri. These rivers are of no value to shipping. Upon 46 PORT IIERRADURA. the wbole of this coast the surf beats with great violence, rendering a landing almost impossible with a strong southerly wind. The soundings at 2 miles from shore are 12 to 10 fathoms, fine sand, which increase as point Mala is approached, and the sand becomes mixed with mud. Point Mala is very low, and covered with trees and mangi'oveS. A reef extends from it in "^ R'^ntberly direction about 1^ miles, upon which are some islets and rocks. The bottom in the immediate vicinity of this reof is very irregular, changing suddenly from 18 to 11 fathoms on a bottom of coarse sand and broken shells. When rounding the point, more than ordinary care is required, there being no objects on shore by which the position of the outer part of the reef may bo known ; the current off it is always •westerly, but varies in strength from 1 to il miles an hour, according to the wind. It will be prudent not to get into u loss depth hereabout than 80 to 25 fathoms. From point Mala a low sandy coast continues in an almost straight line GJ- miles in a N.W. by W. direction to a bold headland known as point Guapilon, the termination of the high land which at only 3.^ miles N.E. by N. from it rises to the height of 2172 feet. All this coast has a slioal extending from it Home distance, causing breakers in blowing weatlier. At about hnlf a mile olf the headland there is a dangerous rock, awash at low water, known as Escolio rock ; on account of which it will be prudent not to approach the coast hereabout nearer than tlie depth of 24 fathoms. At 2 miles north- westward from point Mala is the little river Tusulubro, the position of which is readily recognised. Fort Berradnra. — Fron point Cruapilon the coast maintains tho direction of N.W. by W. for 8i miles to a little bay named Hfirradura, v/here good shelter may be obtained from all winds except those from westward. It is formed on the north side by a bold rooky point, from which a reef extends nearly 3 cables ; and on the south side by a similar point of iand, but bolder, as it consists of a rounded hill with very high land immediately behind it. Attached to t'le south point by a reef dry at low tiJe is an islet, named Gano, which is nearly of tho same h(jight as the point ; this islet has also a reef extending about a cable from it on all sides. When the bay was surveyed in 1852, the islet was covered with trees. Port Ilerradura has an extent oast and west of about IJ miles, ;ind is IJ miles wide from shoro to shore. Tho soundings decrease from 20 fathoms at tho entranco to 5 and 4 fathoms close to its head. It in, or was, nninhabilod, nnd as it offers but few inducements tor a visit, vessels soldom resort to it. Good witor in great abundance may be obtained from a stream which fulls into its north-east part ; it is said that 20 caskn may bo filled at a time, if they are rolled into the basin. Communication with tho interior is very dithcult. Tho only known danger in port Herraduni is a rock, named Havannah, situated in uuL.'ly tho middle of tho bay, upon wliich the sea breaks at hulf-tido. It has a depth over it of only 2 feet at low water sprlnj^-tides and is sometimes visible when there is a swell. It lies witii a house on the beach bearing N.E. § N. yVi "f i^ mile, and Cnno pmnaole B.W. by B. ^% uf a mile. A.t full and change of the moon the tid<« rises Ui feet. Whim running iut;> joi^, Uerradura, it should bo remembered that tho roof on caclt GULF OF NICOYA AND PUNTA ARENAS. 47 side is very steep. Having entered, the nsual place of anchorage is off the watering place, in about 5 fathomr. The approximate geographical position of tho watering basin is lat. 9° 38' 30", long. 84° 36'. ovZiF OP NZOOY A. — This large gulf is one of the most important places of resort on tho west coast of Central America. It extends about 50 miles into the land in a north-westerly direction, and is 25 miles wide at tho entrance — between port Herraduia and capo Blanco, bat it soon begins to decrease in width and at its head is only 6 miles across. It contains numerous islands, all lying olT the western shore, some of which are of con- siderable extent ; most of these are covered with trees, and in 1852 were uninhabited. Chira, the largest island, is at the head of the gulf ; vessels of very light draught of water can sail round it, but as the channel is intricate, it is necessary to obtain the assistance of some one having a knowledge of the locality. Ban Lucas island, im- mediately opposite Punta Arenas, has good anchorage on its north sido, to which vessels may run with facility. At present, 18G7, the only place of trade is Punta Arenas, oa the east coast, at about half-way up the gulf.* East coast of the Gulf. — From Ilerradura point tho coast trends northward about 2^^ miles to point Sucia, off which a rocky ledge extends westward one mile, and partly shows at low tide ; close to the outer edge of this ledge, there is deep water of 18 to 25 fathoms. Thence the coast turns round to N.E. 5 N. 4^ miles, and then trends north-westword, 10 miles, to Calderas bluff, a high rocky point, eastward of which is port Calderas, formerly the principal port in the gulf, but now deserted. Calderas was generally considered to bo unhealthy to all new residents, and tho higher author- ities usually managed to excuse residence. Vonta AransN. — From Calderas bluff the coast trends round to tho north-west- ward 8 miles, to Arenas point, off which a bank of 3^ and 4^ fathoms extends 2^ miles in a southerly direction, havkig a small spot of 10 to 12 feet upon it ; this spot lies with the extremity of the point bearing N. J W,, li miles, and the Pan de Azucar W.S.W. ^ S., 8J miles. Tho bank is very steep on the western side, deepening suddenly ii'om 7 to 22 fathoms ; but not so on the eastern side, the soundings from it to the eastern coast being 5 to 8, aud 7 fathoms. Arenas point has a shelf of mud extending about a mile westward from it, which is awash at low water. It forms the south bank of a small stream, which has its outlet immediately northward of it. On tho north iiide of this river there is another shelf of mud, which also becomes dry at low water. Upon this point there is a small fijccd light, the visibility of which is reported (1878) to bo very feeble. Punta Arenas was ouco a free port; but siuco January 18G1, customs' duties, i^c., have been oolloctod. It is (or was) tho most important eomniorcial place on tho Pacific coast of Central America; and it is tho only port of tho State of Costi\ Rica, on tho Pacific, frequented by vessels. During recent years it has greatly deteriorated, owing to the partial filling up of tlio harbour and the roHtriutivo policy of the pruKcut Govtiriuneut. I i * When bound into tlio gulf of Nicnya, flljipinaHtorH al)nul(l proviilo theinBolvcs with the Ailiulralty oJinrt No. IttUl, a» it ihuwB tho tmvigntioii on n largo gonlo. 48 GULF OF NICOYA. Tho village of Punta Arenas, has, wo believe, n population of about 1500, The inner anchorage, named the Estcro, situated northward of the point, admits at high tide vessels d'T.vmg 10 to 13 feet, and can be entered only with a pilot's assistance. The outer anchorage, south' .ard of the point, will accommodate all ordinary vessels, tho depth being 5 to 7 l^ithonis; but this anchorage, being exposed to southerly winds, can be considered safe only during fine weather or with tho wind from the land. The anchorage usually selected during tho fine season, from November to June, ig immediately southward of the point, with the Pan de Azucar bearing about S.W. \ W., or Aves islet S.W. The vessel will hero br' at about a mile from tho beach, in 5^ to 6^ fathoms on fine muddy sand, and in a position to communicate freely with the village. In winter it is necessary to anchor farther out, on account of the incon- venience occasioned by tho heavy rollers sent in ironi the south-westward, which tend to carry the vessel on shore. Tho position recommended is in 5i to Oj fathoms, mud over sand, with tl'o custom-house bearing N.W. by N., or the lighthouse N.N.W., and the Pan do Az'icar about W.S.W.* It should bo rcniarkcd that the soundings which in tlio passage from tho Nigrctaa islets to tho anchorage decrease gradually from 20 and 17 fathoms, to 4.y fathoms on tho bank bounding the anchorage, increase again towards tho eastern coast to 10 and fathoms. In the immediate vicinity of Calderas blufl", the depth is 15 to 12 fathoms. When at anchor it is recommended to moor S.E. and N.W. Tho holding ground lA not good, and tho anchors are liable to be fouled by the flux and reflux of the sea, and by tho moving of the vessel during tho sea and land breezes. It is high water on the days of full and change of tho moon at 8h. 10m. The tido rises about 10 feet. Water for shipping is obtained at tho river Baranca, 7 miles eastward from tho anchorage. Tho bar can bo crossed only at half-flood, or a little before half ebb. Tho best water is obtained at about a milo from tho entrance. Only boats can ascend tho river, and tho channel is very tortuous. The vessel should be anchored at about H miles from the river, in Oi fathoms. We believe, abundance of fresh provisions can he obtained at Puuta Arenas, but Bome difliculty may bo experienced in obtaining cattle. WesL const of the (iiilf. — Cape lUiuico, tlio west extremo of tho gulf of Nicoya, is of moderate height and covered with trees even to tho beach. 'J'he land, of which it is tho southern termination, is safHcieutly liigh to bo visible from a distancs of about 25 miles, especially when bearing about N.N.W. At a considerablo oiling it somewhat resoniblcs an island, but a nearer approach reveals some wliito spots which help to distinguish tho cape from the back land. At about a mile southward Irom it is an ish^t, of light colour, without V(U-dure. This isli't is Kiirroundod by a rocky ledge, which dries at low tide, and has deep water of 10 to J'.O laUi'.nns ininiediately southward of it ; between it and tho shore tho depth is 'ij to !) fathoms. • Mr. Hull, n.N., II. M.S. llavniui, 183!) sayH " llin liulit ixt, I'unta Arnnnii iBplnliily visible m)ntli- ward of the Hni! rock, ll.v nut liriiiKiiif? It cnHtwanl of N.N.W. vomtiOn will lui olnir of nil ikiij^or till tlin niicliorni^o liu rcncliiMl. Wti ctmio tu in I'lillioniu, willi tlin li^lilliouHii lioiiriiig N.N.W. 1 W., tliitniit U inilva. Dotli olih and lloud Rot Ktrongly uvor tlio I'utita Arenas liniik," GULF OF NICOYA. •19 From cape Blanco, the western side of the gulf trends 11 miles to the N.E. by N., and is free from outlying dangers, except that at about 2^ miles from the cape, a ledge of rocks, partly above and partly under water, runs one mile oflf the shore, and has deep water of 17 fathoms close to its outer edge. At the end of this distance, 11 miles, the coast bends a little inwards, forming a small bay, named Bullena, where are soundings of 18 and 9 fathoms, shoaling gradually towards its head, which is low land covered with mangroves. The north side of Ballona bay, Ballena head, is of moderate height, and steep, having H fathoms at a short distance from it. Thence the coast trends N.E. i N., about 8 miles io the Nigrt-tas islands, and there are, at about midway, two islands separated from the shore by a narrow channel navigable by boats, named Jasper and Alcp'.raz, of which the former is the easternmost. The Nigretas are two islands close to each other, wliich run off 2i| miles from the coast ; from the eastern one a ledge of rocks extends a quarter of a mile eastward, and has near its extremity a largd rock known as the Sail or Ship rock. From the Nigrutas islands the coast trends to the N.N.W., 6^ miles, and has several islands off it, lying more or less near the shore ; of these, the largest, about two nuius westward of Nigretas islands, is named Cedro. At the end of this distance are the islands Aves, Pan de Azucar, and Sau Lucas ; these are surrounded by shoals to a short distance, but separated from each other by soundings of 7 to 11 fathoms. The channel up the gulf northward of San Lucas islands, between them and the bank extending from point Arenas, has a considerable width and depth of 18 to 27 fathoms, muddy bottom. Thence up the gulf, and failing a pilot, the eye and steady use of the load will be the best guides. Directions. — The entrance to the gulf of Nicoya is so wide that no difficulty whatever is experienced in making it. It is usual to steer for cape Blanco, keeping a little east- ward of its moridiau, and afterwards to direct the course into the gulf; but it appears probable that some advantage would be gained if the land about Horradura were mado instead of the capo, as the effect of the westerly current would thereby bo to some extent neutralised, — a mile or two would also be saved in the subsequent route to Punta Arenas. Having entered tlio gulf, keep along the oastorn shore, as it is shallower tlian tho opposite coast, and also because tlio oll'octs of the ebb stream, which southward of tho Nigretas islands flows south- westward, will not bo so strongly felt. The soundings, although great, are not so deep, but tliat the anchor can be let go in tho ovc ut of being overtaken with a calm and a contrary current. Ths Hood has occasionally considerable strength, and requires to bo guarded against as its tendency is towards the Nigretas islands, in tho vicinity of which tho water is very deep ; close to tho south sido of tho Bail rock the depth is 21 fathoms, deepening rapidly seaward to 3G fathoms. Tho courso tbouco to Punta Arenas is direct and clear of any known sunken danger. Tho bank extending southward from tho point has already been mentioned. Tho following iuHtructioiis wero written in 1813, und are added because they supply Bome useful hints : — " The entrance of the gulf issalo ; the tides, h(nvever, at times run ntrongly, eiqiecially at tho full and change of tho moon. There is ebb and Hood, I it tho fornjor is of longer continuance and much strongcir than the latter. To run in, keep eastward of tho meridian of cnpe Blanco, which is tho westerly part ? 50 GULF OF NICOYA. of the gulf; and should you round the cape at the distance of 1 to Smiles, the course will be about N.E. ; or, if you should be about half-way between the cape and port Horradura, the eastern side of the gulf, it will be a little more northerly. Having sighted the Nigretas, on the port bow, a rocky point will be observed a little eastward of them, having the appearance of a vessel, and hence called the Ship rock, to which give a good berth, leaving it on the port hand. Haul then over to the starboard coast, that in the event of it falling calm and an ebb tide, you may anchor in shallow water ; whereas, if becalmed, with an ebb tide, when near the Ship rock, it would be difficult to find anchorage, at leasii la not less than 20 to BO fathoms ; and if unable to anchor, the ebb tide, which is very strong in this part of the gulf, would drive the vessel back again past cape Blanco. Steer along thu starboard coast, so as to pass the extreme points at a distance of from 2 to 3 miles, and you will soon perceive the custom-house of Punta Arenas, towards which shape your course, and as soon as the village is seen, bring the custom house to bear N.N.W., or the middle of the village N. by W., when you will bo in from 18 to 8 fathoms, and see in the distance the point named Punta Arenas. Farther out there is a heavy breaking of the sea, occasioned by some sand banks, which run out a great distance, and partly dry at low water. Westward of these banks are the islands of San Lucas ; eastward of wliich, between them and the banks, there is good anchorage, but in deep water. Merchant vessels prefer lying closer in, on account of the proximity of the landing- place and stores. The course indicated above loads ships to tb'° anchorage. The leading mark is the custom-house on with the flng-staft' of the port. The depth is about 8 fathoms, muddy bottom, at from a half to 3 cables fi'om the shore. The banks above alluded to have a tendency to augment BE'i change their position, and the safest course is to keep the custom-house a little open eastward of the flag-staff, keeping the lead constantly going ; and should the water shoal, to haul immediately to starboard. If desirous to come to anchor on heaving a ship to, at some 2 or 8 miles from the port, in order to obtain a pilot, it may safely be done, until one comes off and carries you to the place desired. The custom-house is easily known by its white painted roof ; but it should be care- fully borne in mind that, from the rapid progress the soa appeared to be making upon this spot, it may soon be removed and another built clBOwhcrc." It has been stated that sliips from southward should make cape Blanco, to obtain a frosii departure for their intended port. Such is the course recommended by the writer of the foregoing directions, who considers it better than to make a direct course for the volcano of Beija, because in winter the winds are light, variable, and attended Avith Calais, and it is froqticntly llie case that tlie high lainl is obscured by mists or haze, which ronilors navigiilion diHicult even to tlidse well uciiiiaiiited with the coast. iiciii/riijiliirdl l'ii('8 to a point run along the coast about 20 miles in an \'\. by t:). dirocllon, we discovered Unit {\a laud tlioa trended S.K. to capu lUanco. All this coast is steep nad covered with trees; the liil.s were seldom more lofty than those id' the eountry behind tho enpe ; nnd tho sandy bcnth intcispi rscd ill many jilaccB by rotky poiuts which formed In lie sheltered bays, olTorcd (treiit facilities for a landing." k2 62 MURCIELAGOS ISLANDS, ELENA AND SALINAS BAYS. II \\i i which woald render these two ports important. When this portion of the country becomes settled, civilized, and more populous, I little donht but Colebra will be better known, and probably the cliief port of the state of Nicaragua. Water, fit for consumption, was not found at the beach, but may be obtained a short distance up the creek, which a boat may enter at high water. If wells were dug, doubtless it would be found at the N.W. side, and the surrounding country is moun- tainous. Another indication in favour of this is the thickly wooded sides and summits, as well as bright green spots of vegetation throughout the bay. Brasil wood is very abundant. Mahogany and cedar were observed near the beach, but, as people have been employed cutting the brasil, probably all the mahogany and cedar, easily attainable, has been taken." Prom port Culebra the coast trends to the N.N.W. about 20 miles to cape Elena, northward of which are Elena and Salinas bays. All this shore is quite unknown and as usually represented in charts is believed to be very badly delineated ; it is said to have some islets off it of considerable size. Cape Elena is an elevated promontory of ft triangular form, the ridge of the promontory being veiy iiregular in outline, having ft somewhat serrated aspect, while its northern side is an unbroken steep escarpment without any indication of verdure. ixnreieiagoB Islands. — On the southern side of the remarkable cape just described is a cluster of islands, known as Murciclngos or Bat islands. They are but imperfectly represented on the chart, as little is known concerning them. Two rocks extend sea- ward of them more than a mile in a westerly direction, hence they must he cautiously approached. These islands form almost two distinct harbours ; in the inner one vessels can anchor in 82 fathoms, with a hawser fast to the shore. Springs are numerous and there arc tolerable rivulets, where fresh-water can be obtained ; but the surf is very great, and gulf squalls are frequent and violent. About 8 miles north-eastward of cape Elena is the point of the same name,' whence the coast trends easterly and then northerly, forming tlio bay of Elena. Biena Bay. — Elena bay is an open bay having an extent from north to south of about i miles; at its head in its south-east corner, is a small inlet of 11 to 4] fathoms, named Tomas bny, in which vessels might perhaps bo able to anchor and obtain pro- tection from westerly winds, — but this is nncortaiu. Elena bay is quite open to all winds from westward. Off the entrance of Tonias bay, at about a mile from the shore, are some rocks above water, known as Viigares; and at about 2 miles N.N.E. from these is the small island, Juauilla, insidn of which is a depth of 7 to 11 fathoms. Tho north shore has also an islet off it, named Despciisa. The water in this bay is very deep, there boing 80 futlioms at 2 miles from its head; whence it shoals gradually to Juanilla inland. As there is good anchorage in Salinas bay vessels seldom enter Elena bay. BALirvAa BAY, northward of Elena bay, is separated from it by a hold headland, terminating in point Dcscarte. It in a littlo more than iJ miles in extent, with sound- inffi of 12 fathoms at tho entrance, wliicli decrease gi-adnally to 4 J and 2 fathoms nt its head, ou sand and mtul. Tlio northern Klioro is highland; tho southern is com- paratively low and flat. In the south part of tho bay, at a short distance from the SAN JUAN DEL SUR. 68 beach, aro some roclcs above and ander water; and near the centre of the bay is a little island, named Salinas, auder shelter of which vnssels anchor during winter, and find protection from westerly winds. The geogmphical position of Salinas island, according to the determination of Capt. Sir £. Belcher, Ii.N., is lat. 11° 2' 50", long. 85° 89' 9". Whan bound into Salinas bay it is advisable to give a wide berth to point Desearte, because reefs are said to run off from it, in a westerly direction, npwards of a mile. A {;ood mark is the north peak of Orosi, 5200 feet high, situated about 12 miles inland, bearing E. } S. (S. 83° E.), as this will lead to the bay. The depth on the south- east side of Salinas island is shallrw for nearly half a mile. The Coast from Salinas bay to San Juan bay trends 12} miles in a N.W. i W. direction; it has not been surveyed, and should have a wide berth given to it. Cape Nathan, in lat. 11° 8', has some rocks off it above water, and there are ali^o soma similar rocks at about midway between this point and San Juan ; all these rocks lie off the land at a considerable distance, and as there may be suukoa dangers ia their vicinity, it will bo prudent to avoid approaching near them. Moantaina. — In approaching from seaward considerable assistance in discovering port San Juan is afforded by the mountains Mombacho (4182 feet high), Ometepo (5050 feet), Madera (4190 feet), Orosi (5199 feet), and Miravalles (4700 feet). Mombacho, in lat. 11° 48}', long. 85° 54}', bears a strong resemblance to the volcano San Salvador (in lat. 13° 49', long. 89° 10'), but is not sufficiently lofty to be seen from all directions by an observer at ouly a few miles from the land. The pointed sam- mit of Ometepe, in lat. 11° 32', long. 85° 84, and the large saddle-shaped summit of Madera, in lat. 11° 27', long. 85° 27}', can bo seen in clear woa her abovo the hills between them and the coast. The volcano Orosi, in lat. 10° 59', long. 85° 25', is frequently obscured by clouds ; when not so hidden it will be recognised by its double pointed summit, which resembles the pointed roof of two towers, connected by a vast ridge. Mimvulles, in lat. 10° 39' 40", long, about 85°, can also bo seen from almost all directions seaward. • From San Juan, the summit of Ometepe bears N.E. by N., and that of Madera N.E. } E. SAN JV&xt BSZi BUB. — The bay of San Juan del Sur is small, being only about luilf a mile across. It is situated in about Lit. 11° 16', long. 85° 49', and is by no mean esasy to find, even when running down the coast, tho little bays being all of similar character and apponrnuco. High land sarroands the bay on every side, excepting towards tho S.S.W. and W. by S. quarters, in which directions it is open to tho ocean. At its head the beach is low and sandy, and on each bide the luud juts out towards the eea, forming promontories of 400 to 500 feet high,. Tho entrance from tho sea is elear, with a depth of water of 9, 8, 7, and fathoms, decreasing gradually to 3 fatboma at the distance of 800 yards from tho beach. In every part there is moderately good anchorage, geuenilly on a muddy bottom; and the rise of tide is from 10 to 14 foot. Tho prevailing wiuds on this part of the coast aia North and N.E., which blow occasionally with considerable violonco ; and when such is tho case, vessels may some- times oxpcrieuce some difficulty in making the bay. Fresh-water can bo obtained at a short distance from tho beach. Tho nearest town ii Nicaragua which is distant 7 or 6 leagues. S4 GULF OF THE PAPAGAYOS. Directiotts. — Vessels approaching the port of Juan should bring the conical peak of Ometepe (which rises 5050 feet out of lake Nicaragua, 22 miles distant from the coast) to bear N.E. by N., and run in on that bearing till the peak is hidden by the coast range; they will then have the harbour ahead, distant about 5 miles. Coming along the coast from the southward, when within 5 or 6 miles of the port, three isolated rocks will be observed standing oft* the coast, apparently about one mile apart, and when near the entrance, which is bold on either side, a small house near a large tree may be seen on the hill over the right-hand side of the bay. The usual anchorage is in 6 to 6 fathoms near a large iron buoy moored in 5 fathoms opposite the town.* At the distance of less than a mile from San Juan del Sur, there is another port named Nacascolo, which is of nearly the same size and figure ; and, as the land between them is lowand nearly level, they might be united by a cut, were it thought necessary.f M. de Lapelin, 1852, does not write favourably of the bay of San Juan. " It is usual to anchor outside the port in 8i{ to .11 fathoms, nearer the south than the north side of the bay, and always close to a little bed of rocks which reduces the breadth of the entrance. The bottom, consisting of sand and broken shells, is a very indifferent holding ground against the violence of north-east squalls, and its sharp declivity towards the sea still further increases the difficulty of the anchor retaining its hold ; this declivity is, however, of some advantage during the prevalence of West and S.W. winds, which Bometimes in winter blow with considerable violence. At this outer anchorage, with on-shore winds, the loss of a vessel is unknown, although instances have occurred of vessels dragging their anchors. The port consists of a little buy open to all winds from seaward. The bottom, of the same description as the exterior anchorage, does not hold better, and as the anchoring ground is very limited in extent, it will be prudent not to enter the bay but remain outside. Except perhaps in winter, small vessels may, however, obtain shelter behind the rocks of the north point. It is not difficult to effect a landing, as boats ground at some little distance from the beach and the surf is not very heavy. Water is obtaine(^ from a well, and is of indifferent quality ; it is small in quantity and not easily got. With the exception of fresh provisions at an extravagant price, wo could obtain no supplies." ovz.r or the papaqayos. — The portion of coast described in the preceding paragraphs, from Port Culebra to the bay of San Juan del Sur, or perhaps as far north- ward as cape Desolad, (see page 5G), is known as the gulf of the Papagayos ; these are violent winds, which blow with such considerable strength as frequently to cause the loss of spars and rigging. They commence about the meridian of Leon, long. 80° 50', and when approaching • Oapt. G. F. Emmons, U.S. etonmer Oesipee, 1869. t Tho povtriimont of NioarnRua decreod iu about tho year 1840, tlio erpction of lionsrB ami tlio buililiiiRB neccBBary for making Han Juan bay a port of oommorcc, but in 1852 tliore wore only a few wooduu buildinga pompously called botels. ■■n GULF OF THE PAPAGAYOS. 55 from westward, are first lelt off cape Desolada, about 10 miles eastward of Realejo. They decrease about sunset, and attain their greatest force about uiuo or ten o'clock in the morning. Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., says of this wind or breeze, that its limits may be considered to be iucladed in a line drawn from cape Desolada to point Yclas ; aud it is rather a curious phenomenon, that its strength seldom ranges so far as this chord, but eeems to prefer a curve at a distance of 15 to 20 miles from the land. Captain Marie says "In this part of the coast and as far as the entrance of the gulf of the Papagayos, the winds are very light, with frequent calms ; the tides setting strong from the N,W. Custom recommends steering along the coasts in the gulf, as by so doing it is thought that the squalls are less severe, the winds more steady, and the sea much smoother. I have frequently crossed the gulf, sometimes close in shore, and at other times been forced, by strong winds from N.N.E. to N.N.W., to keep the offing. In the summer time I have navigated in this locality both near to, and at a distance from the coast, and in both cases met with strong winds, accompanied with sudden and heavy squalls, which are almost immediately followed by calms ; great care is therefore necessary. I have always taken the precaution to keep from one to three reefs in the topsails, taking care promptly to shorten sail when the squalls came on, and then keeping as close to the wind as possible, with a good full sail, so as easily to make cape Desolado, and have thus been enabled to cross the gulf with this sort of weather in about 12 or 15 hours. The winds generally enable ships to make a N.W. course, but in order to keep in with the coast itii desirable, as the squalls subside, to steer, if possible, a little to windward of that point." M. de Lapeliu states " la the gulf of Papagayos, and on other parts of this coast, northerly gusts come without any announcement, being felt suddenly with a cloudless sky equally as when there is a calm or fog. In accordance with the opinions of most navigators, I consider that it is better to keep along the land at the distance of 5 or 6 miles than to get out to sea, because at this distance the gusts, although perhaps more sudden, have less strength and have not such long intervals between them — sometimes indeed these intervals did not exist at all, and instead of them is met a continuous breeze freshening every moment. If the opinion of Sir E. Belcher, Il.N., be correct that the gusts prevail most at the distance of 15 to 20 miles from land, it follows that if the shore cannot bo coasted at the distance of 5 or C miles, it would be better to keep outside at about 30 or evcii 45 miles from land ; the gusts will there to a considerable extent lose their force and become less sudden, the sea also will not be so heavy and trying. As the vessel advances nortlierly towards the coast, the direction of the wind becomes more easterly, and it is often possible to reach Realejo in a direct course withouttacking." Th« COAST. — From San Juan del Sur to Tamarinda river the coast trends about N.W. 3 W. 76 miles ; it is somewhat bold but remarkably little undulated, and it contains hero and there sandy creeks* and clills against which latter the sea breaks with violence. This coast is very imperfectly known, but it is believed that, with the exception of the • Drito, a small bay about 8 miles nortliward from San Juan, hns been proposed as a terminus of a caual from tlio lako of Nicaragua. Northward uf Urito arc sovoral Himilar Bmall bays of littla importance. ^^m 66 TAMARINDA, CAPE DESOLADA. r. i Industrie rock, a 15-foot patch lying 3i miles off shore, in lat. 12° 4' 40", long. 86° 43' 10 ", there are no detached sunken dangers, beyond the distance of one to 1^ miles from the coast. In the vicinity of Tamarinda the coast is described as drowned land, being of a much lower elevation than that to the southward or northward. Within the coast just described are the great lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, and near the bead of the former will be seen the volcano of Mombaoho whicli bears a close resemblance to that of San Salvador, being a rounded mountain whose Bunomii rises to a peak. TABKABiNnJi. — The river Tamarinds, situated in lat. 12° 9^', about 28 miles B.E. ijy E. {true) from Corinto (Ilealejo), is oue oi the principal places in Nicaragua, whence Cedar wood is shipped. The depot, composed of a few huts, lies G or 7 miles within the entrance of the river. It can be reached at high water springs by vessels drawing nearly 20 feet, but great caution is requiretl as the bottom is rocky and very in'ognlar. Out- side the entrance the depth is 4 to 6 fathoms ; hero vessels may anchor, but only daring fine weather, as it is extremely dangerous during the bad season. The entnince-cbannel is considerably narrowed by sand-banks, also by two rocks, the north^n of which is covered at high water. If intending to enter the river a vessel should first moor close in shore, and, while waiting for wind and tide, place buoys, &c., to indicate the channel. When proceeding up the river it will be necessary to tow or warp to the trees. In the channel the least depth is 15 feet ; the rise of tide 8 to 12 feet. At springs the flood-tide isvery violent. Supplies. — Besides fresh meat, which can be obtained only once a week, do provisions are obtainable, and water cannot be procured without much difficulty. Tho COAST. — North-westward of Tamarinda the coast becomes gradually more elevated, forming an extensive escarpment ^riV/m unknown as Cos/rtTosca, which has the appearance of having been scorched by a tropical sun. Costa Tosca is succeeded by a low sandy shore, which continues until the cliffs of cape Desolada are reached in lat. 12° 21', long. 8G° 58' 51".* The whole extent of this coast is noted to be extremely unhealthy. Between Tamarinda and cape Desolada 11161*0 arc throe small loading places, the most important of which is that named San Martin. This small port is about 10 miles from Tamarinda and consists simply of a few huts, abreast which vessels can anchor in 10 fathoms water, good holding ground. Communication with the land is very difficult in consequence of the surf which exists continually. Abreast the coast at Tamarinda the soundings appear to indic-ate the existence of a flat bottom of 16 ftithoms depth. At 6 miles off Costa Tosca, tho bottom, consisting of mud, has a depth of 10 to 18 fathoms, fulling suddenly to 22 fathoms a short distance further off. Northward of Tamarinda as fur as San Martin, rocks extend off shore to the distance of a mile. (Description of coast here yiven is uncertain.) Cape Desolada may be recognised by its desolate appearance. Its rocky cliffs, though * This position of cape Desolada ia in accordance with tho duacriptiou of the ooait given by French navigators. According to English charts cape Desolada is situated about 30 miles farther sootbward, in about lat. 12^ 1', long. 86° 37i'. See Instructions Natttiques {I'M)) mr le$ colea oumt du Ci-ntrc-Amerique et du Mexique, by M.A, Pailliig, 1879, pp. a3~36 ; also AfinaUi Ilydrogra^hiquttt vol. xl., 1877, pp. 893-397. MARABK)S MOUNTAINS. S7 not of great height, are steep ; and, as rocks extend seaward from them a distance of about 4 miles a wide berth should be given them by passing vessels. On the western side of the point is (or was in 1852) a little plateau, with stunted trees upon it, and its south-east side is of reddish colour and bare of vegetation. As cape Desolada is approached the sand beach will bo observed to be bounded in some places by little wooded cliffs, while in other parts rocks extend out a short distance into the sea. From cape Desolaia to Castanon bluff the coast is very low and sandy, but well wooded. It is believed that there are no detached dangers lying off it, with the exception of the Conway,* a dangerous reef situated about three miles south-eastward of Castanon bluff, in about lat. 12° 25', long. 87° 5'. In this locality the bottom, which consists of sand and mud, is much deeper the same distance from shore than to the northward of port Corinto (Realejo), there being soundings of 10 to 22 fathoms at a distance of only 2 to 6 miles from the shore. asonntains. — The mountains in the vicinity of Realejo are very lofty and visible from many miles at sea ; they are known as the Marabios mountains. Commencing with Mumotombo on the !-' ore of lake Managua, which is said to be 6000 feet high, they advance almost parallel to the coast and terminate in that named Coseguina, on the south-east side of the gulf of Fonseca, which is estimated to have an elevation of 3800 feet. AVhen viewed from the sea off 1 ^ealojo, at an offing of some miles from the land, at least eight of these remarkable mountains can be seen at one time, supposing th^ weather to be favourable ; of those Viejo and Momotombo are very conspicuous and easily recognised not only by thoir great height but by their form and position. The peaks in succession from Momotombo are Axusco, Las Filas, Orota, Telica, Santa Clara, aii.l Viejo. Viejo mountain appears in the ofiing opposite Realejo as a magnificent cone, having a perceptible cavity at its summit ; it is 5557 feet high, and apparently rises from other mountains, of which the smallest and westernmost has a well marked conical form. Momotombo, an active volcano, is a lofty mountain whose sides are at a very sharp angle ; it rises from lake Managua, forming as boldly and well defined as a pyramid, and hence cannot fail to be recognised at once, especially as it terminates the chain of mountains in an easterly direction. When viewed IVom the sea at some distance south- ward of Realejo, Momotombo appears as an immense isolated mountain, but when seen from Cardon island it is joined to Axusco, a volcano of less height, the two mountains then revealing themselves as perfect cones.f Las Pilas, 8015 feet high, has two rounded Buiumits of almost equal height which give its top a saddle-shaped appearance ; it is not sufficiently lofty to be seen from the ofling ; this volcano became active in 1850, after remaining quiet many years, a crater having then opened at its base. Telica is • Tho Couway reef should Imvo a wide berth piveu to it, as the bottom in its immediate vicinity la BO very irregular tiiat there may bo dauRcrons sunken rocks near it. If the west point of Cardon island bo kept open of Castanon bluff, about N.W. i W., it will clear it in 7 fathoms on its south Bide; this is quite close enough to approach the reef. + In the lake Matiagna, near Momotombo mountain, is an island which rises into a mountain of oouical form, named Momotombita. Tliia is of iniich less elevation than Momotombo and not visible from tho port of Realejo, but it is very distinctly seeu over tho land, when advancing southward along tho coast. The two mountains are similar in shape. 58 PORT CORINTO OR REALEJO. the most remarkable of the mountains between Las Pilas and Viejo ; it is a cone of extremely regular outline, which appears to beconnected to Viejo, of which it has aboat half the altitude, but from which it is in reality separated by a wide interval containing the mountain Santa Clara ; — on the eastern side the mountain Orota is between it and Las Pilas. Having obtained sight of and recognised these monntafns, it ia easy to make the port of Corinto (Realejo), even from a considerable distance in the offing, for both Viejo and Momotombo are visible at about 60 miles from land. If Viejo is brought to bear N.E. by N., and kept thus in approaching the coast it will lead to Gardon island, which ia sufficiently high to be visible from a distance of 7 or 8 miles, where are soundings of 88 to 45 fathoms. When Viejo is recognised, if it should be on a bearing eastward of N.E. by N., a course should be steered to get Momotombo on the bearing of E. ^ N., or Telica N.E. by E. i E., either of which will also lead to the port. If it shonld so happen that the mountains are hidden by clouds, it is necessary to make the land south-eastward of the port, somewhere in the vicinity of cape Desolada, because of the current which is almost always to the N.N.W.* The coast should then be followed in about 10 fathoms water, and care should be taken as Corinto (Realejo) is approached, to keep the west point of Cardon island well open westward of Castanon bluff, to avoid Conway reef ; on getting nearer the port the same end of Cardon island should not be brought westward of North on account of the Castanon shoals. co&XHTO (BBAZ.iurO). — Port Corinto, or Realejo, formed by the outlet of two rivers named Realejo and Telica, is situated in about lat. 12° 28'. It is without doubt one of the best harbours ou the whole Pacific coast of Central America. It is protected from the force of the sea and winds by the peninsula of Castanon (on the southern side) ; also by the islands of Cardon and Asserradores. The beautiful basin (estero) within has soundings of 4 to 8 fathoms over the greater part of it. The land ou each side of the entrance for some distance is low and wooded ; that south-eastward of it, close to the sea, is higher than that to north-westward, but its elevation is not more than 80 feet, and Castanon bluff is only 40 feet high. Cardon Island, iv front of the port, divides the entrance ^'ntotwo channels, the Cardon on the north and the Barra Falsa ou the south. This islai d is abou^ three quarters of a mile long and a cable broad at the south end, .whence io increases a little in width towards its other extremity. Though its greatest elevation is only 80 feet above the eea, it appears high v.'hcn compared with the surrounding low lauJ. Its north-west part, cape Ponente, appears of a brownish red colour ; on the side towards the land are cliffs, which are almost perpendicular. When viewed from some distance in a S.S.B. direction the north-west extremity of the island has the appearance of a huge rock separated from the island by a narrow ch.'unel. Viewed from seaward Cardon island appears not unlike a wedge, of which the higi^cst part will be the cliffs just alluded to. Its western end consists of a sandy beach, and at its southern extremity are some * This is chiefly neccBsary in the months between November and May, as the usual winds are then from uorth-oastward and blowoccaaioually with considerable violence out of the gulf of the Fapagayos ; at such times a strong current sets along shore to the north-westward. PORT CORINTO OR REALEJO. 59 detached rocks. In 1852 there were only a few trees on its north and east parts, the remainder was covered with little shrubs. These trees formed a valuable means of distinguishing the island from Manzana, an islet off the coast a few miles north-west of Corinto, which otherwise so closely resembles it as to be called the False Garden. The lighthouse, lighted in 1875, also affords an excellent means of recognising the true island. Light, — k fixed white light is exhibited from an octagonal wood lighthouse, painted white, erected on Cardon head, the north-east point of Garden island. The light is G4 feet above the sea and visible 12 to 15 miles. Its geographical position is lat. 12° 27' 55" long 87° 7' 4'.". Barra Falsa. — This, the southern channel into Bcalejo harbour, is now partially filled up (1875) aud only fit for boats ; it lies between Cardon island and Gastanon bluff. The latter will be easily recognised because it is the western part of three islands running off from the main and connected to it and each other at low wtter by dry sand. This channel is three-quarters of a mile wide from shore to shore. Oardon ObAiin*!. — This is now (1875) the only navigable entrance into Gorinto (Realejo) harbour. It lies round the north end of Garden island, between it and Asserradores island, and is nearly three-quarters of a mile wide from shore to shore, but the breadth of the channel way is only one cable, being contracted to that width by the Sawyer bank, a shoal running off from the south-west end of Asserradores island ; the channel is consequently close under Garden head. The depth on the shoalest part of Sawyer bank is only 8 feet, and its edge is very steep, the lead at once falling from 3 fathoms into 9 and 10 fathoms ; sometimes this edge is indicated by breakers, but more frequently not, for which reason and also because the tendency of the flood is towards it, additional care is required when in its immediate vicinity. Shoal water, having a dangerous patch at its extremity named Gorgon shoal, extends out a short distance from the north-west side of Gardon island. This patch lies nearly a cable North from the rock off Ponente point, and there is a depth of about 6 fathoms close to it.* Gardon channel should not bo attempted without p pilot, and especially because there are reasons for believing that considerable changes in it have taken place of recent years. It is reported that soundings of 28 feet are to be found at low water on the bar in the channel, and it is not considered safe then for vessels drawing over 20 feet to enter. The leading mark for making the channel is, the low south end of Asser .-adores island well open of Garden head, until Ponente point bears S. by W., when it is necessary to change the course to south-eastward in such a manner as Ko sail close round Gardon head. Having entered the port through Gardon channel, soundings rf 6 and 7 fathoms will • Gorgon shoal or rock was discovered in 1849 by Commander J. A Paynter, B.N., of H.M.S. Qorgon. It had then 11 feet water upon it, and from it the south point of Aserradores island bore N 80° E. ; Cardon head S. 87° E. ; aud point Pouente S. 14° \V. (Variation 9° E.) To avoid this rook, steer towards the entrance with Cardon hoaa touching Icacos point, and when distant a good cable from point Ponente stand out N.E by N. until Caatanon bluff opens out from Cardon head, then round Oardon head at a short dislanoo, remembering that the current flows over Sawyer bank. !«" Bi 60 CORINTO. ! I Ml! II i' \" i ; 't^ be found for some distanco withiu. There is complete protection from all winds, and Curdou iHland and the shoaln at the entrance keep out all heavy seas. Pilots. — A pilot will proceed to sea as soon as a vessel is signalled from the look- out on the north-west part of Cardoa island. Pilotage is compulsory, unless there in unreasonable delay on the part of the pilot coming off. Corinto, the present settlement, from which the port takes its name, is situated, we believe, about 500 yards northward from point Icacos, the south-eastern extremity of Asserradores island ; it does not come into view until the point is doubled. The village of Realejo, about 4 miles higher up the river, was formerly frequented by vessels; it is now, however, superseded by Corinto, in consequence of the river having becomo shallow and unnavigable. Corinto possesses a custom-house and several other build- ings ; a dagstaff will also bo observed which is used as a mark for anchoring. It is iu communication with Leon, a city having a population of about 8500, distant about 18 miles eastward from the port. The road leading to it, is on the opposite side of the estero, and faces the village. Since the establit hment of Corinto, the town of Chinendega, G miles northward of Realtgo, has deteriorat^ ". knot per hour. The COABT.* — From Canlon island the trend of tlio coast is about N.W. by W. along Asserradoves isliuul, which is low and well wooded, and has a sandy beach. A wear approach to this shore is not rccomniended, because, if the wind should subside, t.i current and swell would soon drift the vessel on shore. A safe distance is 5 miles, in not less than 10 fathoms water. During winter, when tho wind sometimes blows from South to S.AV. with rainy weather, there is also danger in remaining at anchor oft" it, as the sea runs very high. xtzanzana, or False Ciu-don imland, about 12 miles N.W. by W. from Oardou island, is a small low island covered with trees, aud encircled by a beach (of gravel) of a whitish colour.+ The island is only 1(5 feet high, but the trees upou it render it visible at the distance of 8 miles; as these trees are almost of equal height their tops form nearly a level line. It terminates in a very gentle declivity, especially on its south side, where its extreme point is connected to Asscrradores iHland by a rocky bank under water, apon which the sea almost always breaks, and over which there is such little depth that it completely closes the channel. It is dangerous to attempt this passage, p?en in a boat, unless in very fine weather aud at nearly high W! ter. Between Manzaua and the main is-, another passage, even more dangerous than that just mentioned; for, although the sea i\y it brer.ks less, and consequently does not 80 readily show the rocks and sandy shouls, there is much less water upou them than is found in the southern passage. It has been already stated that vessels bound to Corinto (liealejo), and unacquainted with the bearings necessary to make the entrance of that port, have occasionally mis- taken Manzana for Cardon, and Asserradoros for Castanon, and the passage mentioned for the entrance to liealejo, hence navigators should be cautions to avoid being decnived in the appearance of tho land, and should remember that, whereas Manzana is very low and completely covered with trees, Cardon island has only a few trees oa its north and east parts and a lighthouse on its north -oast head. M. T. Do Lapolin of tho I'ninch surveying vessel Ihilliniile, 1852, remarks: — "lu the event of the 'nountaius being seen it is almost iujposfliblo in mistake Mauzana for Cardon, for Viejo boars E.N.E. from tho former island and N.E. by N. from the latter. Viejo is so lofty that its summit i» often hidden by clouds; in such an event, tho volcano jf Tolica, a perfect cone south of and not very far from it, wliose tummit is rarely concealed from view, is very useful as a mark,- -from IVIanzaua it bears East, aud fr >ni Cardon E.N.E. ; " Tho false entrance of Manzana, in which so many ships have been wrecked through the mistake occurring mentioned above, is fronted by a reef known as tho Bubosos, • Tho ooatit bctwoi'ii llonlrjo aiul tlio gulf of Ponseoa hna not been Bnrvpjed, and ib known to bo Tery imperfectly tlolincntcil in clmrtn, licnoo op.r 'luBcrirtion of it id nocoBBarily uuBatisfnotDry. t Tlio iHiniiil of Mnn/nnn iu onlliul by llio iiilots of tlin country AHserrnilorcH isliuid ; nnd tho latter i* known to them i\a Corinto isldtiil (Juilnirticnn NdiUi'ino, No. .'iltil, p. -Kt, 1H7'.)). { If the volcano of Toliua ig corrootly i)laocil uu the Adniiiatt) chart ^2117) thoso bcariugs muat be true. G2 MESA DE HOLLAND AND POINT COSEGUINA. wliich extends senward from the island more than i) miles. At its extremity arc somfl dotathed rocks which never uncover. To clear this danger it is recommended not to approach the coast nearer than 5 miles, uor to go into a less depth than 11 or 12fathoms. Between the false entrance of Manzana and the Boca del Padra Ramos, the entrance of which is divided h)' an islet, the coast is skirted by a line of reefs which extend sea- ward a distance of 2 to 8 miles, and in which there are several passages for boats. At 4 miles from this part of the coast the soundings vary from 11 to 14 fathoms. spock Roof. — About 7 miles N.W. by W. from Manzana island and 20 miles B.E. by E. from Coseguina point are some dangerous outlying rocks collectively known as the Speck reef. There are in fact two distinct rocky shoals, the outer oi which is distant about 8 miles from the shore and separated from the inner by a channel half a' mile wide and fathoms deep. The direction of tliis channel is S. by E. and N. by W. [true). The outer reef is known by the nali\es as the SequedaJ de Pf^'^"nUepe ; it was explored by the French surveying vessel VaiidreiiU, in 1872, which is ; .nchored in the channel between the two shoals. The Scquedad de Petacaltepe is said to be ex- tremely dangerous, as at half-tide, with a heavy swell, there are no breakers upon it, whilst the sea breaks furiously at that time on the inner reef, which uncovers at low water. Some rocky heads of 16 feet water have been found on the outer reef and the pilots state that at low water springs three small pinnacles of rock are visible, awash. At the anchorage of the Vaudreuil, in 6 fathoms water, in the passage between the two shoals above described, the following true bearings were taken : — the centre of Manzana island B. 51° E. ; Viejo mountain N. 80'^ E. ; the Mesa de Roland N. 83° E. ; and point Coseguina N. 49° W. These bearings place approximately the position of the vessel's anchorage in lat. 12° 40', long. 87° 22.^'. Mesa do xioUand, in about lat 12° 46', is the extremity of a little mountainous chain, which runs from the interior in the direction of the sea. It is easily recognised by the plateau of which its summit consists, and by the largo reddish-coloured spots which 0. -cur in parts whore there are no trees. Similar spots may also bo observed upon a lother Hat topped mountain, situaled a little more in the interior."*' North-westward from the Rolland the land becomes very depressed and flooded, so that it has the appearance of a largo csicro (or estuary) when viewed beyond a depth of 8 fathoms water. The shores of this apparent breach in the coast are lined with breakers, towards which the poundings dicreaso gradually from 10 fathoms water, which depth is distant C miles from tlie breakers. Proceeding in a north-westerly direction this drowned land is succeeded by a sandy beach, which, at 6 miles from Coro- guinii point, gives place to steep cliffs, rising gradually in elevation as point Coscguiim is reached. Point cotiegulnn. the soutli-oast point of the gulf of Fonseca, in its western and southern parts presents to the sett moderately liigli and almost perpendicular clillH; its northern part is, on the contrary, very low, as it consistH uf a Hiiiidy beacii. VohsoIs may safely approach it from all directions, even to within the distance of a mile, if a depth of H to (5 fathoms bo muintaiued; but during the flood, this ofllng would not bo • If tlu'Bo peculiar Hppcarauoes aro ocoaiioiiod by drought, they will most probably he green durijiB tlio rainy Boaioii. GULF OF FONSECA OR CONCHAGUA. G8 sufficient, aa it might carry them into the Estero Eenl, towanlii which it flows with n strength of IJ to 2 knots.* nds round N.N.W., about 80 miles, to the head of the gulf, and has soundings of H to 3^ fathoms, at 4 miles from the shore ; some dry patches lie in the direction of E. by N., 6 miles from Monypenny point. Amapala Point. — The western side of the gulf, point Auiapala, is of moderate height, and bordered by a reef of rocks and sands extending some distance into the sen, and causing heavy breakers ; thus enabling it to be easily avoided. Outside the point, at a short distance, is a depth of to 8 fathoms. From point Amapala the shore bends in north-westward to the outlet of a small rivp»', and then turns north-eastward, 9 miles, to Chicareno point, round the no; in side of which is port La Union. The volcano Amapala, the summit of which is 1^ miles inland in a W.S.W. direction from Chicarene point, rises to the height of 4340 feet. It has not the conical form so characteristic of the volcanoes in this part of Central America. It is a large mountain, with two summits contiguous to it ; of which, the highest has a gradual slope and is in parts crowned with trees, — whilst the other, of a very rounded form, is covered with the herb named Sacale.]- The second summit is the true crater of the volcano, and has been extinguished for many years ; it differs little in elevation from the first. Zia vnion. — Immediately northward of point Chicarene is the bay forming port Ln Union. It extends 8 miles in a north-west direction and is about 8} miles broad, reckoning from shore to shore, but the whole of this is not available for anchorage, as extensive oyster bods and mud flats, dry at low water, lino tho northern shore, and contract the space in which shipping can be accominodatod to not quito half that extent. The western and northern shores of tho bay are low. Tho town, or village, stands on tho southern shore, at about 4^^ miles from tho entrance. From the foregoing paragraph it will bo seen tiiat tho doopost water in the port is off tho south shore. The depth from point Chicarene to the town is (or was) 8 to 84 fathoms, and vessels may iiuclior in almost any part of it if jdccaution bo *,akon not to got 80 close to the mud Hat as to ground whou tho tKio falls. It is cominon for very 'I' * : * The flumiiiit of the volcano fell in ; until thini the numiitHiii was almost nn lofty as \i(jii. It now |)rt>B(iits BO roniiirknblo an appoiiranci', that coupltMl with itf mat vlcitiit) to tho »i'.ii it cannot bo mistaken I'nr other nioiiutainH on th. ciniist. JlchOior givRS tliu hclglit of Cuti('f{ntiui volcano a» 8800 feet, and of Anm|>ala voicauo iiu HHliG fout. f The horb SacaU covers the whole oninitry ctxoopt where there are truvB. It ho* a lun({ and Htron),' flbri!, ami in thr dry Bcasun (;iv( » the landn cuvcrod li\ it a (vi'ciiliar.vftllow appearance, Bothnt, wore it not for ihnir (;roat extent tluty might bo niistakcn for Jli'ldo of ripr Torii, Ah tlio termiuatiuii of tbo dry Beasoi. ni>proaoheB the whole oontitry covered by it in |»»rclied and arid to a degr»«, and then nppourN of n reddish colour ; nnniodiatoly after tho oomnioncemunt of the raiiii, this chaagM to u jmlo Ijreen colour uiul prcKuuts ILc appearanou of j/jung lugar oiiiriiij{ a Iiiuoko from MuHwnril iviid nt u\\\ »w\ cliftiiR.' of tlio moon, wat«r can bo obt!»!noil with ilfc^My either by tliu hoso or by lllliiiK tho barrvU oil Bhoro. Tlio wafer it »«ry aaperior in (niNlity to ib«t obtiiiiu'.l from Hio wi IIh of U Uuiou. 66 GULF OF FONSECA— LA UNION. it h W' tho appearance of breakers, — In the vicinity of the town the rate is seldom more than 2 knots. Directions. — When bound to the bay of La Union, steer for the islanr' Conchaguita, (subsequently mentioned,) and pass it at a short distance on its west side, as you will thus avoid getting into the bay on the north side of Amapala point, towards which the flood tends. If obliged to tack there is plenty of room, but Amap;ila point should not be approached nearer than the depth of 10 or 9 fathoms, because of the reef which iiurrounds it, the edge of which is steep ; as the sea usually breaks on this reef it is not difficult to avoid. It will bo prudent to preseiTe an offing from the land at least 1^ miles when in the vicinity of this point. When passing through the channel between Conchaguita island and the coast it is rncommended to keep over towards the shore of Amapala volcano, to obtain the advantage of tho flood which here flows northward ; and, this course should be followed even as far as Chicarone point, because immediately Conchaguita is left astern the flood divides into two streams, one flowing northward iuto the bay of La Union, and the other north- eastward batween Punta Sacate and Perez islands. Some care is required to avoid a dangerous reef extending southward a third of a mile from tho south-west end of Punta Bacate ; but which, as it is never entirely covered, presents no great difficulty. The channel here is but little more than half a mile wide, and has a depth in the middle of 14 to 20 and 28 fathoms ; having passed through this, the bay of La Union opens to view, and such an anchorage can be selected as may bo convenient. Faraiionea — On the eastern side of the fairway to the bay of La Union, and just within the entrance to the gulf, is a dangerous group of rocky islets, named the Farallonos, among which aro some rocks under water. They lie with Monypenny point bearing East 5i miles, and the centre of Cosoguina volcano S.E. by E., 9 miles ; close to them all round is a depth of 8 to 10 fathoms. XManguera. — Of the islands in the gulf of Fonseca this is most to seaward, it is consequently tho first mot with in the approach to La Union from southward. It is oval in form, and its extent from N.N.W. to S.S.E. is about 8^ miles, its breadth being 1} miles. Its shores are clifly, and its suran>it has an elevation of about 000 feet. Close to it on tho south, west, and north sides, ia a depth of to 8 fathoms ; but its eastern side has a sandy flat of 12 to 15 feet extending from it half a mile, beyond which aro soundings of 1 and \\ fathoms. A small rocky island, named Manguorita, lies about half a mile fi'om its south-east point ; in tho channel between is a depth of 10 to 18 fathoms. Ooacbagulta is tho name of tho ialnnd situated 2 miles north-westward from Manguera. Its extent is 1} 'nilr vA its form is almost circular. This inland rises to the heighi. of about 500 feet, jd may be safely approached on all sides except tho north-east, wlience a fli\t 10 feet under •■ .ttor, extends halfway over to Perez island, and 18 succeeded by other slmllo',\j of similar depth, Tho chainiol to La Union bay is westward of this island, aud has a ilopth of (! and 7 fathoms ; while tlie channel cast- ward of it, betweou it and Manguera (that which is usually followed by .< jhoIs bound to Amapala in Tigro island), has a depth of 11 to 9 fathoms. yam. — At 2i miles from Conchaguita in a norlh-casierly direction is Perez islund, tiituatcdon tho vostoru odgo of a 2i-fathom flat which extends from Conchaguita in a GULF OF FONSECA— AMAPALA. ^ ttOtili'easterly direction to Disposicion island, and thence to tho Bhoro. Close to the western side of this idhind is a depth of about 1 fiilhoms, which increases to 9 and 10 fathoms towards the shore of Puuta Sacate. As Perez island is joined to Conchaguita by a flat of only 10 to 15 feet water, vessels approaching La Union bay (the eastern side of tho ajiproach to which is bounded by the islands and flat) must take care that they do not get too far eastward, especially at low tide. The flood hereabout sets north-eastward, and therefore has a tendency to carry vessels towards the flat. Panta 8aeat« is the name of tho island north-westward of Perez. It bounds tho channel into La Union bay on tho east side, and is of irregular shape. A reef, already mentioned, extends a short distance south-westward from its south-west point. Between the island and the shore northward of it, is no safe passage, almost the whole space being occupied by a mud flat which dries at low water. At a short distance from its east side is an islet named Chiquito. Oarova, Ingleaera, Sisposlelon, Valasqnez and Tlgre are islands eastward of those just mentioned. Of these, Valasquez is the most extensive ; it is close to the shore, and its summit has an elevation of 2220 feet. These islands are all, more or loss, situated on the extensive shallows which prevail in tho northern part of the gulf, and among them are many islets and rocks of which special mention need not be made. On the north-west side of these islands is Cismuyo bay at the head of which is port La Brea, of little importance. Disposicion is the name of tho island off the south-west side of Valasquez, and about 1\ miles north-westward from Tigre ; it is recognisable from a distance by its rounded summits, of which tho highest has a height of about G50 feet. Tigre, the island most to seaward, has an extent of about 8 miles, and is almost circular in form. It is the highest of the islands of the archipelago just mentioned, as its sum- mit has an elevation of 2590 feet. A bank of 2^ fathoms extends 2 miles from its south-west side, in the direction of Manguera, leaving between it and that island a ch'knnel 2 J miles wide, and about 4 fathoms deep ; the east sido of the island, in the direction of San Lorenzo bay, is so shallow that it is only for a short distance that vessels can got near it ; its north side is unapproachable ; consequently, it is only along its west sido that an approach can bo made to tho port of Amapala, whicii lies on its north-western shore. Amapala, since being made a free port, has rapidly grown in importance and is now more frequented by vessels than La Union. It belongs to Honduras and is the only port of that state on the Pacific coast. Its anchorage is extremely good, being sheltered from almost all winds and having good holding ground, green mud. Tho usual auchorago is in 7 or 8 fathoms about 4 cables distant from tho shore, abreast the village, with the flagstaff bearing S. 41A° E. [tnii]. Provisions are moro easily obtained at this pltico than at Lii Union ; a kind of market is held. Water of questionable quality can be obtainwl froui a ciisteru near tli« shore. Among its vegetable products Iho chief are colVoe and Indigo. Tho exports consist principally of cattle, MwUm, dye woods and other fancy woods. In gmioral th«l climate is healthy, and, altliough intermittent fevers sometimes prevail, lliere is no hospital to go to. Loading and discharging cargo arc carried on by means of lightora :„e^!Kii;!i*i^?.l cd GULF OF FONSECA— AMAPALA. I) i' f and in general there in very little delay. Landing is easy, as the beach is sand abreaei the village; it will, however, bo greatly facilitated when the proposed mole Is con- Btracted. Directions. — If, when bound to Aniapala, it be intended to nse the chamcl hetweeit Conchutjnita and Mantjnera, steer as mach as possible midway betv/een these islands, as thereby the deepest water will bo preserved; the deplh will be 9 to 11 fathoms. As the north end of Manguera is rounded, the second hill of the summit of Tigre should be brought on a N.E. by E. bearing and continued thus until the shore of that island is distant about half a mile, when the channel to the port will become open ; in this latter course the soundings will gradually decrease from 10 to 8 J fathoms, on mud mixed with sand, — the lead should be kept going, especially when nearing Tigre. The channel to Amapala is along the west shore of Tigre, between it and the ex- tensive bank of 6 to 15 feet upon which are seated the islands Conchagnita, Perez, Inglesera, Disposicion Ac, and which extends northward to the land. It is not quite three-quarters of a mile wide, and in it are soundings of 4^ to 8 and 10 fathoms; as the channel is so limited in breadth, the lead should be freely used, and especially because the edge of the bank is steep. When running through the channel, a little islet will bo observed close off the west shore of Tigre, to which it is connected by a Sana bank dry at low water; it is named Caracolita, and upon it are shrubs and a few trees. A dangerous rock lies close to the westward of this islet, which must be cau- tiously avoided ; it is (or was) guarded by a buoy. From Caracolita islet to Amapala the distance is about 1 } miles, and the course is along the coast of Tigre, keeping off it a moderate distance; there is no other danger but what is close in to the shore.* The channel eastward of Manguera, between it and the bank extending south-west- ward from Tigi'e, is also occasionally used, especially by vessels under 16 feet draught. From the little islet Mangaerita, off the south-east end of Manguera, steer in a N.N.W. direction and keep the lead going to avoid getting on the bank extending from Tigre island, and as soon as Disposicion island bears N. \ W., steer for it on that beanng until Caracolita comes into view. When the latter bears N. \ E., the channel is open and may be entered and followed as before. Tides. — It is high water at Amapala on the days of full and change of the moon at 2h. 56m. The rise of the highest tide observed was 11 feet. At the north end of Manguera the flood flows in an E.N.E. direction with a. strength of about a milo per hour ; the ebb, on the contrary, flows between Conchagnita and Manguera, S.S.W., at the rate of \^\ miles. It is high water here on the days of full and change of the moon at Bh. 15m.; the rise of tide is about 10 feet. The best time to leave Amapala is at the end of the flood and with a breeze from tho land ; no further instructions are necessary than to reverse those already given for entering. nionntaina. — The mountnins nninnd tho gulf of Fouscca are very conspicuous from the sea. Some have been mentioned in tho course of the procedinj» remarks on tho gulf, and it now only remains for us to allude to those named Viejo and San Miguel. * When npproQoliitiK tlin port ttio diroctinn and influence of Ibe tidal stream muBtnot be forgotten. Tlio (loud itU nuitLward and towarUu Ibe bauks. POKT JIQUILISCO. «» n 10 Towering above all other mouutaius eastward of the gulf, will be seen iu clear weather the volcano Viejo which lias an elevation of 5557 feet. This mountain cannot be mistaken for others, its height is so great that it bounds the view iu the eastern horizon; hence in clear weather it is a valuable landmark. When inside the gulf, in the vicinity of Manguera island, it will bo observed over the bay of the Estero Ileal on a bearing of about S.E. by E. i E. San Miguel, in about lat. 13° 24^', long. 88° 5', is north-westward of the gulf of Fonseca. It rises to the estimated height of 6520 feet, and is a perfect cone having a very large base. Its summit (the crater) is almost a level, there being only a very slight concavity in the middle. The great elevation of this mountain causes it to be conspicuous above all the hills in its vicinity; when viewed from westward it appears detached from the surrounding land. It was in full activity iu 1852, when its summit ,was frequently hidden by a white cloud. The COAST. — Point Amapala or Candadillo, the western limit of Fonseca bay, is encircled by a bed of rocks and sand which extends seaward about one mile. This danger is easy to avoid as the sea breaks continually over it. From Amapala point the coast trends in a westerly direction about 26 miles to port Jiquilisco, and is for a few miles fronted by a sandy beach, which is succeeded for a further distance of about 10 miles by a bolder coast, cliffy in some places ; this ceases on the bearing of San Miguel mountain N. 18° E., and is followed by a low shore as far as port Jiquilisco, These sandy beaches give a very deceptive appearance to the land, especially at sun- rise and sunset, at which times it does not seem to be at the distance &om the vessel that it really is, and the surf also apparently breaks farther from the coast than it actually does ; hence it must bo approached with extra care, and especially too as it has not been surveyed, and is almost unknown. The soundings fi-om a distance of some few miles in the oflSng are believed to decrease gradually to the shore, and it is stated that vessels may anchor off the coast if overtaken by a calm, which it is perhaps most prudent to do, — the currents being variable, sometimes to eastward and some- times to westward, with a strength of about 1^ miles an hour.* At a mile distant from the shore the soundings are 8 to 10 fathoms until San Miguel comes on a N. 4° E. bearing, when they diminish to 7 aud 5 J fathoms at 1^ miles off the coast. PORT jiQViLisob, named also Espiritu-Santo and Triunfo do loa Libres, consists of a bay situated iu about lat. 1^" 10', long. 88° 18'. It has not been examined, and the few particulars wo possess of it are not of a reliable character. It is scarcely known in San Salvador, and it has no trade whatever. Its entrance is intricate and much obstructed by sand-banks, upon which the sea breaks heavily. These shoals extend about 4 miles seaward and are dangerous to passing vessels.! Within the * Voynge of the SMeuse, in the Annalcs Ilydrognqihiqucs, Vol. 10. t A iliviif?«r(ni8 glioal, witli about 12 feet water over it, lins been report-oil as existing oflf this linit of tiie couHt, in lat. 13" 2', k)n^'. 88" I'J' ((iii|iroxiuiatt). Aceonliiig to tlio Btatcmont, it is a miles lou« in a N.K. and S.W. direction, and from its centre San Mif/uel volcano beiirn N.N.E. Two vessels are asserted to Imve struck on it, at au estiiuatod distance fr^m tbo shore of about 10 miles. It is known as the Leiuiia shual. The existence of this rciioited shual is discredited. Tlio rxuniinatiouB of this locality made by w PORT JIQUILISCO. '■/! entrance are some islands, one of which, named, Pajaros, divides the bay into two parts. The average depth in the channel is stated to be about 8 fathoms; honce, if this be correct, there is water sufficient for large vessels. When intending to enter, it Trill be prudent to send a boat ahead to sound the passage, should it so happen that a pilot cannot be obtained. M. Jamin of the French ship Genie wrote thus a few years ago : — «' On the evening of the 25th January wo got under way from the river Lempa, with a good S.S.E. breeze, which enabled us to I'un along the coast in about 8 fathoms, and at sunset we observed fiome breakers opposite us which appeared to extend a considerable distance from the land; we then anchored in about 8^ fathoms, soft mud. The next day we got under way again, and it was then easy to see the breakers, which extend across the Estero in the form of a horse-shoe, in such a manner that the bay can only be entered by going round them ; the sea broke over them with considerable violence, but there are places among them where in fine weather there are no breakers, which might con- sequently be easily traversed by boats. The depth in the deepest part of the channel at low water is 15 feet; the rise is about Of feet. It is therefore possible for vessels of considerable tonnage, to get within the breakers, where there is a much greater depth of water, with the exception that in two or three places there are some small banks ; those may, however, be easily avoided. The ebb current leaving the Estero forms eddy streams in which there is a good depth of water, and these eddies are also to be seen in the deepest places on the reef ; hence the position of the navigable channel is well indicated. The current flows in an opposite direction with the flood, — at the rate of 2 or 8 knots at full and change, when the bar is very dangerous, except at the time of high water." M. Lapelin of the French ship Brit nte, 1852, says "The coast between the river Lempa and port Jiquilisco is low and wooded, but the beach, which in the neighbour- hood of the river is of very white sand, becomes here of a well determined gray colour. The soundings ofl" it at the distance of a mile are regular, the depth at that offing being 7 fathoms, on a bottom consisting of sand covered with a very tenacious slimy mud, good for holding; apparantly there are no sunken dangers. Near Jiquilisco, the coast (similar in appearance to that immediately westward of it, being backed by some wooded hills, and fronted by a beach so low as frequently to be hidden by the heavy surf that breaks on the bar) is intersected by several rivers. The bay of Jiquilisco, unliko what may be remarked of the rivers Lempa, Paza &c., has not about it large mangrove trees BO conspicuous with their white trunks, but clumps of thickets of a dirty pale green colour, or great bushes comparatively leafless. Wo approached the breakers as near as half a mile, coasting them from West to M. Lapolin of the French ship Brilliante in 1852, also by M. Lefevre of the French ship Vaudreuil, in 1872, establish tlio fact that uo danger exists beyond the diatanco of 4 milca from the coast. It is couBe'iuently considered probable that the reported shoal is one and the same as th,; which ia known to extend about i miles off the entrance of Jiquilisco bay, — an opinion which is not only held by the last numcd surveyor but also by tho Spanish pilot at San Job6 de Guatemala. T IMAGE EVALUATIOM TEST TARGET (MT-S) 4$ 1.0 I.I 1.25 m Hi s la 1 1 2.0 Photographic Sciences Corporation 14 111.6 ^ l^ 4 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WHSTIM,N.Y. MSIO (716) •73-4S03 T 7.1 I fiutp siderable distance. The heavy seas which break upon the beach have formed a dangerous bar, which is distant more than 100 yards outside the extremity of the mole, rendering lauding exceedingly diflioult at tiuios, 74 ACAJUTLA. Liyht. — k fixed light, visible 7 or 8 miles, is exhibited from the extremity of the mole. It shows red to southward, green to northward and a irAt'te sector between. The direc- tion of the best anchorage is in the sector of white light. To clear the danf^ers off Remedies point do not bring the light to bear to the northward of N.N.E. ^ E. Baoys are moored 60 yards from the mole-head, one on each side, to fiMilitate communication. Direetioju. — ^When bound to port Aoigntla it is recommended to get sight of the volcano Isalco, and bring it to bear N.E. by N., as that bearing leads directly to the anchorage. The mountain is situated about 12 miles from the coast, is 4972 feet high, and behind it are others of much greater altitude ; it is easily recognised, although there are peaks in its neighbourhood very similar in appeararce, because it is an active volcano. The column of smoke and steam constantly ascending from it and the frequent eruptions of molten lava, render it conspicuous both day and night,— it is also not of sufficient height to be so frequently hidden by clouds as are the more lofty mountains in the interior. From these circumstances it is a very useful landmark to vessels seeking the ports of San Jose, Acf^utla and Libertad. The usual anchorage in fine weather is abreast the extremity of the mole in 7 to 10 - fathoms, sand and mud, abqnt half a mile from the shore, with mount Isalco bearing from N. 88° E. to N. 80° E. During the rainy season, when the swell of the sea is very great and the winds from S.S.E. to B.W., occasionally very violent, it will be necessary to anchor farther out, in not less than 12 fathoms. A good mark when running for the anchorage is the flag-staff in one with the large door of the custom-house store. If it be necessary, vessels may tack without hesitation as there are no sunken dangers, with the exception of those already mentioned aroond point Remedies, and the soundings are an excellent guide. The anchorage cannot be considered convenient on acconnt ofthediffioalty of loading and unloading eargo ; it is however safe in fine weather. Unless oironmstances compel a visit it is as well to avoid it during the months from July to October, because at thaft time very heavy seas are sent in by strong winds from seaward. Nor, can the holding ground be considered good, for the Heroine when anchored in 16 fathoms mod, dragged both her anchors although the chains nere 142 fathoms long. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at 2h. 85m. The rise of tide is about 9 feet. The set of the current is variable ; during the fine season, however, it is generally E.S.E., at the rate of V^f of a mile per hour. SupplUi of fresh provisions, as well as cattle, wood, sugar, &e. &c., can be obtained at Sonsonate, at reasonable prices ; it is necessary, however, to give two days' notice if a large quantity of provisions is required. Coffee, sugar and indigo are cultivated in the locality. Water may be procured at the mole-head, whither it is carried by meana of iron pipes. Actgutla was visited in 1869 by H.M.S. Havana, Captain T. Harvey. " Starting from San Joso do Guatemala on May 24th, we worked down to Ac^jutla. Between these places a ship may stand in safely by the lead, as it shoals gradually and regularly to 10 and 12 fathoms at 8 miles from the shore. In the afternoon of the 20th we anchored at Aoc^ntla, with point Itemedios and the shoal from it ahelteriog as from south- ACAJUTLA. 75 OMtward. Here we found a Babstantially bailt wharf, at which there is generally a fiiur landing, although at times the surf is suzh as to prevent any approach. Merchant ships discharge and receive cargo by their own boats. On the 27th the breakers on the shore were so trifling that our cutters landed on a wooding expedition in parts of the bay without the slightest difficulty ; but on the 29th the surf was so heavy that it was extremely hazardous even at the wharf, and four hours were occupied in watching oppor- tunities to embark supplies. Beef, stock, vegetables and fruits may be obtained in any quantity from Sonsonate ; but two days' notice must be given to secure any consider- able amount. The pier, happily, is provided with cranes, which we had to use in getting off bullocks. We anchored in 12 fathoms with the landing place beanug N. 66° E. A vessel should not stand nearer to Remedies reef than the depth of 20 fathoms, unless with a good breeze and clear weather. The volcano Isalco was burning during the whole of our stay, — no lighthouse gives a better light. This volcano bearing N.E. by N., is a good mark for the port." Captain W. H. Parker, F.M.S.S. Go. (1871) gives the following instructions for Ac^jntla : — " In making this port from the westward you can run the coast from San Jos6 2 or 8 miles off-shore. The low land and beach extend to Actgutla, which is on a moderately high bluff. As you draw near yon will make the custom-house and wharf on your port bow, and point Remedies and reef on your starboard bow. The reef shows well out of the wcter and breakers extend some distance beyond the rooks. Actgutla is on a bluff, as already observed, and from the town to point Remedios there are strips of sand-beach showing much whiter than the beach to the westward of the bluff. At the back of the town and point the land breaks in moderately high hills, which will be seen when the mountains and volcanoes are obscured. In the dry season there are so many fires on the mountains that Isalco cannot always be distinguished. The land, though, to the eastward is high down to the sea — to the westward low, with many huts on the beach — detached and in groups. Making the port from the southward you will see the custom-house 12 miles off, with a good glass. Keep 4 miles off point Remedios and anchor as hereafter directed. In making Ac^jutla from the eastward, you will open the white house on the wharf as you round point Remedies. Having cleared the reef, steer about North along the land, until you open the old custom-house clear of the bluff, and having the wharf bearing about E.iN.E. run directly for it, and anchor in about 10 fathoms water. I anchored here in 9} fathoms, sticky bottom, and lying with 80 fathoms of chain out, with the ship's head to the southward, I took the following bearings : — Old oustom-hf use, N.E. ^ N. ; end of wharf, E. J S. ; point Remedios, S.S.E. f E. ; wharf distant about three-fourths of a mile. When the ship swung with her head to the northward, I had the street leading to the wharf in view. Keep the old custom-house open vtith the bluff to avoid some rocky patches." «»• OOABI.— From Aciyutla to Istapa the distanoo is about 66 miles in a W.N.W. direction. The coast oonsistd of a beach of greyish-coloured sand, backed by a well- wooded shore, interrupted in a few places by some rivers among which are those named Grande, Oaota, Santiago, Paza and Esclavos ; the entrances to these are generally indicated by the white trunks of mangrove trees, but none are of importance. The 76 ISTAPA. land at a few miles from the coast rises into moontains, among which will be noticed th«r Table of Apaneca, 6709 feet high, sitnated a little westward of the meridian of Aet^atla, and the Morro de los Esclavos with its ronnded summit, the elevation of which is estimated to be 4828 feet ; between this latter and the meridian of Istapa are moautains of even greater altitude. Agua rises in the form of a perfect cone to the height of 18,468 feet, and it apparently connected on its west side to Fuego volcano by means of a ridge of eon*' siderable altitude ; the hitter mountain has two peaks at its summit, of nearly equal size and appearance, one of which is always surmounted by a panoply of smoke ; — the height of this volcano is estimated to be 14,000 feet. It is only in very olear weather that the lofty volcano westward of Fuego can be distinguished ; it is either Atitlan or T^jamnlco>i< ; if the latter, it has a height of about 11,480 feet, and its summit formi three peaks, one of which, the middle and highest, is active. Paeayo, eastward of Agua, is 9694 feet high, and easily recognised by its jagged and irregular sommiif which conveys the idea of a crater fallen in. The surf upon all this coast is extremely heavy, especially when a strong wind has prevailed a few days from southward. It is believed that no sunken dangers exist off it, and the soundings obtained indicate great regularity in the bottom, which consists apparently of muddy sand. The depth at about half a mile from the beach is 18 fathoms, and at from 1 to 8 miles 22 to 28 fathoms ; in the neighbourhood ot A' ;\intU the bottom is not so steep. The usual direction of the current appears to be bom West to East, following the coast, at the rate of a half to 1 mile per hour. XsUpa. — Istapa, formerly a port of some importance but now quite deserted, is an open roadstead, exposed to all winds from southward. The usual anchorage is at half a mile from shore, in 16 to 18 fathoms, muddy sand. In 1862 the BrUliante anchored with the volcano Agna bearing N. 8* 21' W. ; right peak of Fuego N. 16° 81'- W. ; volcano of T^amulco N. 84° 68' W. ; left summit of Paeayo N. 12" 48' E. ; and the left summit of Esclavos N. 79° 16' E. (Variation 7* 89' E.). The depth at 4 miles from the land is 20 fathoms, mad, whence it gradually decreases to the beach.f If mount Agua is brought to bear N. i W., Fuego N. by W. i W., or Picayo N. by E., it will lead directly to Istapa. When on any of these lines of direction the depth at a few miles from the land is 80 to 26 fathoms, whence it diminishes gradually to the beach. A low sandy shoro, covered with wood, at last comes into view ; and among the trees will be seen a few grass huts, forming the village of Istapa. The bar at Istapa is so bad during July, August aud September, as frequently to prevent a landing. The bottom at the anchorage at this season is so much influenced by the heavy seas sent in by the strong on-shore winds, that much dependence cannot be placed upon the anchor holding. The coast being very steep, the bar is not fax frv>m the beach. With a northerly wind and at the period of full aud change of the moon the bar is frequently impracticable. * T%|«mnloo is tituatod in lat. 14" 86', aud is about 38 miles weitward from latopa ; AUtkm la in about lat. 16° I'i'. t Istapa Las boon clusod as a port for foreign vessel* siuoe 1853, whan it wu mpersaded bj Baa iotti, tlie t^resent port of Quatemala. ltb« utla, !h is are d it eon>' qnal -the hther A or >rmt ■dof unit, iha« it off siBts a 18 jtitla from isan lalfa lored W.; i the miles eaya a the iialif and ly to meed IDDOt from moon lanfai y8«n Faapagtll SAUNA CRUZ ROAD Mnitic me loCablH (Soundings in rathoms ) SAN JOSE ROAD H«lf y«ntic Mil« 1**4 kOkbUf (Sounding! In FiEthoms) n ji a M 14 u 4c*. \ n u a S3^.^fl^«^al:|^/ Obf^Spct* {i^.^°||.'8" ^1 CXrP«»-— ) LONDOH. Juntii Imii^StSon. 8AM JOSE OE GUATEMALA. 77 The edrrent follows the line o' coast, flowiag from West to East, at a rate of tV to l-rV miles per honr. SAW joaa. — ^From Istapa the coast treads abont 8 miles in a westerly direction to San Jose de Guatemala or Zapote, bat which is better known nuder the name briefly of San Jose. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 18° 56', long. 90° 45' (Nav. Officers, H.M.S. Tenedos, Fantome and Petrel, 1874). ' San Jose has a popolation of 800 to 1000; it is a port of some importance as the only landing place for goods on the coast of Guatemala; with this exception, it has no olaim to the name of a port, being merely an open roadstead. The few grass honses composing the town are bnilt among the trees on a high dark sandy beach ; a large white storehonse, which can be seen at a distance of 6 miles, forms the only mark on the coast for the port. San Jose is in telegraphic communication with the capital. The anchorage is opposite the white house, in 8 to 18 fathoms sand, distant about I or 1^ miles from the land. An iron pier, 8Su yards in length, furnished with all the necessary appliances for loading, &c., has recently been constructed; at its extremity the depth is 6i fathoms. .A steamer from Panama calls here once a fortnight. A strong wind from southward sends in so heavy a sea that at times a landing cannot be effected, and at the same time disturbs the bottom so much that the anchors fre- quently drag ; hence it can be considered a safe anchorage only during the fine season. There is some difficulty in finding the anchorage of San Jose, the cobst line in the neighbourhood being one unbroken line of beach and trees ; the best marks, however, on coming from seaward, are the remarkable volcanic peaks of Guatemala, generally visible at dawn ; four of these peaks can be seen from the anchorage on the following bearings: — Tiyamulco N.W. } N., El Fuego N. by W. i W., La Agaa North, and Pacaya N. by E. i^ E. El Fuego and La Agna being the nearest and most con* spicuous, the former may be known by a deep notch in its summit, while the latter being brought to bear North, forms the best guide till the white storehouse can be distinguished. Light. — kJUced white light is exhibited from the custom-house, visible about 10 mileii ; it is not, however, to be depended on. At the end of the pier a small iron tower stands which was intended for a lighthouse, but no light is now shown from it. The mark for the best anchorage is the light at the custom-house eclipsed by the tower on the pier-head. Approachbg San Jose from eastward or westward the land for a short distance from the port may be coasted at a moderate offing, as it is believed to be free from sunken dangers, but it must be borne in mind that, as it has not been surveyed, more than usual care should be exercised ; giving the shore a berth of 2 or 8 miles will be as dose to the beach as a prudent shipmaster should get, and he will then have soundings of 22 to 15 fathoms, — if this distance is maintained the land breezes will be of con- siderable advantage. In the event of the wind prevailing from S.W. or W.S.W., it will be safe in the boards to get as close to the land as one mile, in soundings of 10 or II fothoms, but not nearer. The lead should be frequently hove, the soundings being an excellent guide, as they shoal gradually. If the sea wind fail without being suc- ceeded by a strong land wind, it is recommended to anchor for the night, that the jprQgreuiJuind doriDg the day may not be lost. 78 BAN JOSE. If the port be approached directly from touthward, the volcano Agaa sbonld he brought to bear North, or that of Faego N. 14° W., as either of those bearings will lead to it. When these monntains are hidden by haze, it is recommended to make the land about Istapa, and thence approach the roadstead until the flagstaff of the eostom's establishment bears N. 20° W., when the anchor may be east in the depth most eon- ▼enient. The nsnal supplies for shipping ean generally be obtained at San Jose bat only in small quantities, and at high prices. Beliance should not, however, be placed upon getting them, as the village consists of but little else than a few hots i.ihabited by the staff of the custom-house ; even water has to be fetched from some distance in the interior. The winds at San Jose, as on other parts of the coast c! Central America, are, from November to May, generally from S.S.E. by South to West, frc>m lOh. a.h. to 8h. or 9h. P.M., a short interval of calm then follows, which is succeeded by a light wind from North to N.E. From June to Novjmber a vessel should not anchor here nnless at a distance from the shore snfScient to permit her to beat off with ff.eility when the winds are from South and S.W. which often blow with very great force and raise a very high sea. Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., makes the following remarks on San Jose (1871) : — " Approaching San Jose a large white house will first be observed on the port bow, after which yon will make out a long wharf extending into the sea, with launches moored off it. Keep the buoy off this wharf a little on your port bow, - ound to off the end of the wharf, 100 yards outside of the buoy, and anchor in di or 10 fathoms water and you will then be about one-third or one-half mile from the end of ihe wharf. Do not go to the buoy as it is rather dose in. You will find tolerable holding ground, generally mud and sand. The Oommandante informed me that there is 81 feet water at the end of the wharf, and 7i fathoms at the buoy at low water, but you should not go into less than 9i fathoms. At this anchorage the flagstaff on the custom-house (large white house) is in one with the end of the wharf, and will bear about N. i W. The wharf at San Jose is built with iron screw piles, and is, I believe, 900 feet long. All freight is pat into the boats or taken from them by cranes at the end of the wharf, outside the breakers. A railway runs from the cnstom-houso to the end of the wharf, with cars moved by hand. There are many launches here and the Captain of the Port sends them off as soon as you anchor. San Jose ie in lat. 18° 58', long. 90° 49'. There is a light here on the top of the custom-house (not in the lighthouse at the end of the wharf), hnt it cannot he depended on. I have never yet found it lighted when making the port at night. I believe it can only le seen 6 or 6 miles at sea. As a general rule no work is done at San Jose (nor at Acojutla nor Libertad) at night. Leaving Aoapulco for the former place, if yon find it impossible to reach there before night, it is better to slow down, and aim to reach there at daylight. In this way you economize in coal, avoid unnecessary risk, and save yourself much anxiety. If the weather is good, however, and the night moonlight, they will sometimes worhi SAN GEHONIMO, TECOJATE, AND SAN LOUIS. 70 as the last time I was there nnder these circomstanees, I took in 898 sacks of cuffuo and 110 of sugar, between 6 p.m. and 7 a.m., detention thirteen hours, working two lannches. In the rainy season it may be better to anchor a little farther ont from San Jose, bnt yon will be governed by the weather. A sooth-easter brings in a heavy sea, and sometimes communication is impossible. This whole coast is at that season subject to very violent squalls ot wind and rain, attended with heavy thunder and very vivid lightning. These squalls are called Chubascos." Currents. — No reliance can be placed on the sei oi' the currents oo this coast. Off Sbci Jose it will sometimes ran west for three day i, vind then east for the same length of time. I have been set in both directions ;t dilT(M-«nt times when running for the anchorage from the southward. I think generally tbo eaFlorly set proTaiis. When apnroaohmg the coast for the Gralf of ToLrrtntepeo yon will frequently be set in towards the shore, and you must be on the lookout for this, particularly in dark nights. Keep the lead going. I have been set to the eastward a knot ox uiore an hour from the Gulf to San Jose. When making this anchorage from the S.E., the only safe way is to be sure and make the land to the eastward of the port. The beaiing of Agaa volcano is of great tssistance to yon here, if it can be taken." Tb« OOAST from San Jose to the frontier of Mexico is very little knovni, hence we are not able to describe it satisfactorily. It is reported to be low, sandy and inter- sected by lagoons, which communicate with the sea by means of narrow passes, accessible only by boats. The mountains lying behind this flat coast are of great elevation, many of the voloanio peaks being visible at the distance of 40 miles from the shore. San OMTonimo. — This village, distant about 26 miles westward from San Jose, is situated at the mouth of the river Guacalate, on which are the towns of Ghimaltenango and Antigua, in the interior. It consists merely of a collection of huts, with one large house, where sugar is stored ready for shipment. Its approximate geographical posi- tion is hit. 18° 62', long. 91° 16'. There is good anchorage off the village, in the fine season, in 6 to 8 fathoms, with Agua volcano bearing N. 17° E. Being an open roadstead it is exposed on all sides, and should be avoided in bad wer.lher. The port of clearance for this port and for the other small ports of this part of the coast, is San Jose de Guatemala. TMojat*. — This port, situated nearly 8 miles north-west of San Geronimo, is very inferior as an anchorage to the other ports of Guatemala, because the bottom is com- posed of sand of a shifting nature which necessitates the anchor being raised eveiy day. Teoojate is built on the right bank of the entrance of Coyolate river; on the opposite side stands the village of Tiquisate. The nearest town is Santa Ana Mixtam, distant about 10 miles in a north-westerly direction. man iMoiM. — This place is known by two large sheds (probably storehouses for coffee) with huts on each side. It in situated at the entrance of the river Samala, and its ap- proximate geographical position ialat. 14° 13', long. 91° 47' (Oapt. Parker, F.M.S.S. Co.). rw^m 80 CHAMPERICO, TONALA BAR, &c. Daring the fine soanon, ft-o'.n the middle of Octoher to the end of May, vessels can anchor here without risk ; but at other times of the year the anchorage shonld bo avoided, ns dangerons. This port is connected by road with tho principal towns of the province ; namely — Maz^tengo, Retaluleu, and Qaezaltenango. Cbamperteo. — Champerico, 12 miles north-west fiom San Lonis, may be known from seaward ly a large white bouse, a white flagstaff and a number of hnts. Its approximate geographKiuI position is stated to be lat. 14° 20', long. 91° 57' (Captain Parker, P.M.S.S. Co.}, and it is distant about 76 miles from San Jose. During the dry season many vessels load coffee here ; daring the wet season, from July to November, the anchorage is extremely bad, as the sea then breaks fnrioasly a considerable distance froin shore. The anchorage may be fonnd by steering directly for the flagstaff until the lead indicates a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms From this anchorage Fuego volcano will bear N. 65° E. ; and Agaa volcano, distant about 80 miles, N. 68° E. The merchandise exported from this port, which is increasing in importance, comes chiefly from tho towns of Retalulec and Quezalteuango, which are 20 to 80 mil(>s inland. Ttaa COAST. — From Champerico the coast trends north-westward and westward about 200 miles to the entrance of the great lagoons of Tehuantepeo, named the Boca Barra, also known as the San Francisco bar. Of all this coast we possess little or no information, and we believe that it contains no ports that are frequented by foreign vessels. It is said to bo low and sandy, and to contain many lagoons vhich communi- cate with the sea by means of narrow channels navigable only by boats. The mountains behind this low flat shore rise to a great height, and many of the volcanic peaks are snfliciently lofty to be visible when at the distance of 40 miles from the land. The soundings off this coast are regular, and no known danger exists at a greater distance than one mile off shore. The whole coast from Tonala bar to San Jose can.bA run at a distance of 8 miles, in abi^ut 7 or 8 fathoms water. In lat. 14° 48', long. 92" 30' we are informed there is a village known as San Benito, where vessels visit in the dry season, to load hides and India rubber. In lat. 15' 61', long. 98° 89' is Socontusco bluff, at the back of whioh, in the interior, is a volcano about 6000 feet high, known as Soconusco volcano. Toaala Bar, in about lat. 16° 10', long. 94° 10', extends out a few miles seaward and it is advisable to give the shore in thirj locality a bnrth of at least 4 miles Westward from Tonala there are many detached huts along the shore, and there is a village, in lat. 16° 18', long. 94° 40', on tho beach near Ban Francisco bar, distant about 80 miles from Tonala bar. It is statod that in lat. 16° 13', long. 94° 87', about 2 miles east of San Francisco bar, is a remarkable hill or morro, marked with white strips of sand : it has high land in its rear and moderately high bluffs to the right and loft, with very low iuad intervening. In lat. 16° 14', long. 94° 47' there is a village with a conspicuous church having a white cupola and backed by tho beach. There is another similar village 9 miles to the westward, in lat. 10° 15', long. 94° 50'.* TBHvaifTBFBO lAoooivS: — Tlioso lakes extend into tho land about 12 miles and have an extent east and west of nearly 40 miles. They are, wo believe, useless for the ♦ Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871. ' " Il' i ' f 1 » "" VENTOSA 6At. 81 p>i»|>ose8 of navigation and are mentioned chiefly because at a few miles westward from them are the thriving towns of Jachitan and Tehuantepec, having populations respectively of 6000 and 13,000; at the latter town are sixteen churches, and a college was estab* lishcd in 1850. The apprbximate geographical position of the entrance to the lakes* known as the Boca Barra, is lat. 16° 18', long. 94° 52'; the latter is too shallow to admit vessels even of moderate size. On the bar breakers constantly prevail, which add greatly to the difficulty experienced in running in. Within the entrance aro numerous shoals of shifting sand. The soundings immediately outside the Boca Barra are 2^ to 4 fathoms, fine clayey sand. The current from the lakes through this boca, in November 1850, flowed at the rate of 7i miles per hour. From the Boca Barra the coast trends westward about 22 miles to the bay of Yeu' tosa, and is throughout low and sandy, consisting for the greater part of this distance of a narrow beach separating the Tehuantepec lagoons from the sea. The soundings at 1^ to 2 m'las from it are 5^ to 8 fathoms, on clayey sand. viiNTOSA BAT is situated in about lat. 16° 10^^', long. 05° 16', or about 1^ milea south-eastward from the town of Tehuantepec. It is not very extensive, being only 2 or 3 miles across ; but it presents seme advantages which the other bays on this coast do not possess. Although open to southward and eastward, vessels may safely ride at anchor in it, as the holding-ground is excellent, and the depth of and 7 fathoms which prevails over almost all the bay, is very convenient. The soundings are gradual from 8 fathoms at the distance of 100 yards from the beach, to 7 and 8 fathoms at 1000 yards; and the anchorage is on a muddy bottom extending E.N.E. from Morro point, its south-west extremity. The western shore consists of low sandy land, en- closing some lagoons, which receive the waters of the river Tehuantepec. This bay has been proposed as the Pacific termination of a railway across the isthmus of Tehuantepec from the Gulf of Mexico, the construction of which is reported to present no difficulties of greater magnitude than an engineer of ordinary ability would be ablo to overcome. VciEkt ventosa, the western extreme of the bay, is a high sandy point; it is easily recognised as it is the last of the high land when coming from northward. Eastward of Ventosa the land is very low. On Ventosa point (know ^ also as the Mono) is a tolerably high Htuuo tower, roofed in and with windows near the top; near it is a flag- staff. Thin tower cannot bo seen to the westward of North ; consequently to vessels going eastward it comes into view as they pass the point. It should also be borne in mind that to the westward of the point the water is very deep, while to the eastward there aro regular soundings. Mr. Temple says "I aw of opinion that Ventosa bay is not only the best, but Iho point for a hurb.mr on the Pacific coast of the isthmus. It is a fur hotter nud safer port than either Valparaiso or Monterey ; ports in constant use the year throughout. I speak from personal observation, as well as from an oxiiiuiiiatiou of the several charts, and the similarity of outline has suggested the comparison ; for, although tho indentation of the coast is possibly a little deeper at each of those places than at Ventosa, yet they are both open to northward, and as tho general trend of tho coa^^t is IfTT VENTOSA BAY. nearly oorth and south, the prevailing gales blow directly along shore and into these harbours, creating a heavy swell, and often forcing vessels to slip and go to sea for safety: whereas, at Yentosa the trend of the eoast is east and west, so that the f northers" blow directly off-shore, and create no swell whatever. The danger being from the fudden strain brought npon a cable by the surging of a vessel in a sea-way, and not from tue steady strain caused by the wind, it follows that "northers" may be disregarded in an estimate of the safety of this anchorage, as was satisfactorily shown in the case of the Gold Hunter. But "northers", although frequent during the winter, and seldom occurring at other seasons, are the only gales that blow in this region. The southerly winds, characteristic of the summer and autumn, are said to be nothing more than thunder squalls of short duration, and incapable of raising a sea. Even the fresh and steady sea-breezes that prevailed during the latter portion of our stay at Yentoua bay were unaccompanied by any increase of swell." The following is an extract from the report on Ventosa bay by the engineer, P. E. Trastonr, Esq. : — " The western extremity of the bay is formed by the Cerro Morro, an isolated rock of obloog shape, rounded at the summit, about 160 feet high and 2600 feet in circum- ference ; and a little more to the south by a pointed rock, separated from the former by an interval filled in with sand, and forming an angular projection into the sea, known UuJcr the samo of the point of the Morro. On the west, the point of the Morro is contiguous, by its base, to an uninterrupted series of rocky hills, lining the beach and covering an extent of 6000 feet. They cut perpendicularly the fiank aud rear of an agglomeration of moderate heights, somewhat rugged and precipitous at their summits, and forming together a thick cluster of grani- toidal structure disposed in stiata wherein feldspar and amphibole are predominant. It is the last link of that chain which, detaching itself at the uorlh-wcst from the Cordillera of Ouxaca, descends by an irregular series of decronsing heights, passes to the north of Huamolula, turning it p.t the south-east, and tormiuatcs nt the Pacific ocean, whore it separates the bay of Ventosa from tbo bay of Sulina Cruz. The snndy strand of Ventosa commences at the foot of tlie lateral portion of the Cerro Morro, facing the east, and describes from the south to tho north-east an arc nearly 2J miles in length ; then takes an easterly and almost rectilinear direction, but drawing a little towards tho south, extends on about G miles farther, where it runs into tho sea ; after which it turns back again abruptly and inclines towards the north, tliough trending all the while in an easterly direction. From tho summit of the Cerro Morro looking towards tho east, tho beach loses itself in a distant horizon, and uui'ohls to the eye a long bolt of white sand from 200 to BOO feet wide, terminating inland by a vast plain, scarcely broken upon by the isolated hillocks of Huazoutlan. This plain, of a sl'ghtly undulating nature, is composed of sand, clay, and vcgoluble earth. It is covered with trees of niodorato size, which grow both thinner and Kuiu'.lcr, as one advances towards the east. But in the direction of the Cordillera which separates the isthmus into two parts, north and south, this alluvial country is generally fiat, presenting at rare intervals detached heights, easily avoided in tho planning of a road of any character whatever, oiToring to the view fields of corn, VENTOSA BAY. 88 indigo, sngar-eane, palm-trees, nopals, bananas, orange-treos, cocoanat-trecs, and plants of which the vigoar and variety bear witness to the great fertility of the soil. The sandy beach of Yentosa itself is cut by lagoons of little depth, having several outlets into the sea, and by the bed of the Tehuantepec river. At the time of the periodical overflow, this carrent flows over a low country .before reaching the Pacific ocean, in which it then empties itcelf, not only by its mouth, but also by means of those lagoons, its sole outlets during the dry season. The volume of the water of the river is subject to very great variations in the course of the year. In the rainy season it reaches 12 feet depth, in years of an extraordinary character. The rainy season usually commences in the month of June and finishes in the beginning of October. The isthmus, in general, ofiers as many different climates as localities, differing from one another by their situation, the nature of their soil, the atmospheric phenomena, and the position of their mountains in respect to the cardinal points. Advantatjes. — The immense basin of Yentosa presents a safi and commodious har- bour to vessels of cU sizes. Closed at the west by the heights of the Morro, it is open at the south and east. This configuration of the bay allows vessels to have ingress and egress, irrespective of the quarter from which the wind blows. Throughout its great extent, and on entering it from the sea, no shoals are to be met with ; eveiy* where a good anohort^o is to be found. The bottom is of compact sand, and a groat proportion of it is mixed with clay. The depth is almost regularly graduated ; it presents at from 850 to 8000 feet distance from the shore, a progressive running from 17 to 58 feet, and averaging, for the first 1000 feet, 2 feet increase per 100 feet, and about 6 inches per 100 feet for the following 1000 feet. The greatest difference that has been observed in the level of the water was 6} feet. Winds. — Besides the variable winds, which are rather light, and the land and sea breezes of the morning and evening, ... ; provalent winds, the N.N.E. and S.S.W. winds, reign during a great portion < P the year on the southern coast of the isthmus. The first of these two atmospheric currents is not felt at GO miles east of Yentosa, beyond the Barra do Tonala ; nor at 62 miles west, beyond the mountain of Ghahube, which bounds on the west the lagoon of Tengulunda. The N.N.E. wind usually begins to blow about the 16th of October and OMtses In the fore part of April. In the month of November it blows without interruption, and nt that time it reaches its maximum. Towards the middle of December it ooases during intervals of from 10 to 12 days, and then begins anew to blow one or two weeks. These alterations or interruptions and renewals are reproduced at short and unequal periods. But the length of tho period of discontinuance goes on gradually increasing till tho wind only blows one day, ami flu vlly coiisos couiplotely. T] fndians of Santa IMiiriii del Mur arc fainiliiu' with the iudicntions lumonuciug tha coming of tho N.N.E. winds. In tho ovouiug ut about sun-down, if the Hunimita of tho mountains of Guichicovi and San Miguel Cliinialapa (seen from the eoasl) are concealed from tho view by quantities of slato-coloured vapour, it is indicativo timt tho oil •w 84 BALINA CRUZ. "northers" will blow tho day following, and will last as many days as the sammits of those Cordilleras continue to be covered with similar clonds. Yaponr of a correspond- ing hae, seen at the same hoar, at the horizon of the Pacific ocean, announces that the R.S.W. wind will blow on the day following. The S.S.W. wind, which in winter socceeds the North wind, daring one or two days at most, is the only general wind prevailing daring the months of Jnne, Jaly, and Angast. After some gales of more or less intensity, which may be compared to the violence of the North wind, and not exceeding 1^ to 2 hoars' duration, the soatberly wind is definitely fixed. Towards evening its intensity decreases till the next morning, when the same phenomenon is renewed. Still, this wind is subject to more interruption than the North wind, and the intervals of repose last longer. The B.S.W. wind, passing over the ocean, reaches the coast of the isthmus laden with vapours, which at certain boars of the day resolve themselves into abundant showers. In winter and in summer, during the prevalence of the southerly and northerly winds, the current of the sea is firom east to west; its greatest velocity is about 1| miles per hour. This continual moveiuont in the waters of the Pacific is only dis- cernible at a distance of about 6000 feet from the shores of Yentosa. The bay of Yentosa is much safer than the harbonr of Yera Craz. Yiolent tempests frequently render the latter inaccessible during several days, and even when the North wind blows, the communication between the town and the vessels in the harbour is interrupted. During our sojourn at the isthmus of Tehuantepec, we never had to record one tempest or hurricane on the Pacific ocean. In December 1860, while we were at Yentosa, the N.N.E. wind blew (off shore) with extreme violence from the 7th to the 17th of that month, and we remarked, with surprise, that the sea was not agitated. To enable one to appreciate the condition of the sea at Yentosa, such as it actually is, it would perhaps be well here to mention that our soundings were effected by means of an open boat, 6 feet beam by 18 feet long, which wo had brought from New Orleans, and which was conveyed across the cordillera ; with this boat we were able to sail oat 8 miles into the open sea." 0ALXNA CRVZ. — This bay lies to the westward of Yentosa point; from this point the sandy beach of Sulina Cruz trends westerly for about 2 miles and bending to the southward terminates at Baliun Cruz point, a rocky projection, off which are several clusters of rocks, above and under water, to the extent of a cable ; outside those rocks the water is deep, the soundings being 8 and fathoms. In the bay the depth increases from 4 fathoms near the shore to 8 and 10 fathoms at 8 cables from the gaudy beach. The village lies on the westorn corner of the bay, and on tho side of a hill to the right of tlir ' mttme direc- tion; and, though it blew heavily for three days, with the wind at times to the westward of North, the sea kept up until some time after the " norther " had censed blowing. This is not generally the case, for a strong "norther" (and particularly if it veers round to N.N.W.,) beats the sea down ; at which time the landing is attended with little or no risk, which was the case when we had the last two " northers ". I was informed (and, judging from appearances, I think correctly,) that very often when the wind is North or N.N.W., close in-shore, it is N.E. in the offing, which makes it impossible to land on the coast. I remarked whilst lying here, at the full and change of the moon, and when no " norther " was blowing, that, although the surf ran so high that no boat could land, the vessel lay without any motion. We were moored at less than 800 fa- thoms from the shore. The surf appeared not to be caused by a swell rolling in and agitating the sea at the surface, but to rise from below, and without any apparent cause, as we had light winds and fine weather the most of the time we lay here. On another occasion, I was caught on shore with a boat's crew for three days. In attempting to get off to the ship, the boat was capsized and stove. It was then, and had been for a week previous, nearly a calm. The heavy ground-swell invariably hove in from the S.S.W. We fortunately escaped from this beach without losing any of our people, which was more than I expected, having had three laid up at different times, who were saved from being drowned by a mere chance. In addition to what has been said about this part of the coast, it can be known by the low land at the back of the beach of Bosario, which runs in from 1 to 2^^ leagues before there is much rise in it, and is thickly covered with trees. Prom North to N.W. of Morro de las Salinas, nearly 2 leagues from shore, the rising ground is formed by a number of small barren hillocks. From our anchorage, at the place where we loaded, the following bearings were taken, lying in 9^ fathoms, sandy bottom. There are two large patches of a whitish appearance, the farthest range of the Cordilleras ; the eastern is the lowest, and bore N. 69^° W. The appearance cannot be seen, unless from a little to westward of Morro de las Salinas. This has every appearance of being a m QUATULCO, Ac. ■; ^i^ hi waterfall, and rises from the other patch in a N.W. direetion, at about an angle of 46°. It issues from a small valley in the Cerro del Ghonga. The highest point of this range has but a small elevation above it, and is covered with trees. The waterfall inclines towards the south, and can be seen for several hundred feet descending, before it is lost sight of amidst the forest below. Cerro de Zadan bore N. 89° W. ; the extreme bluff of Morro de las Salinas, S. 86° W., 8^ miles ; the eastern point well within the bear- ings, and Panta de la Lagnna Grande, N. 71° E., 6 to 7 miles ; the rock on the beach, mentioned as being 40 feet high, N. 65° E. ; and the galena or shed, nnder which the cargo was piled, N. 26° W., half a mile. At the western part of the bay are four palm trees, close to the beach. The distance from the Morro de las Salinas is about half a mile, and between these trees and the Morro is a large cluster of palms. Between these two clusters is, at all times, the best place to land, as a boat can beach here with comparative safety, when, at every other part of the bay the sea runs very heavy. At the neaps we found the place quite smooth, with the exception of a sea heaving in about every 10 or 15 minutes ; but it causes no risk to a boat, provided she is kept end on. At the south-western part of the beach, and where a small pathway leads to cross the Morro de las Salinas, close to the sea side, in the cliff of a rook is a small spring of excellent water. We always found it clear and cool, even at noon ; my consignee said we could fill the ship's stock of water from it with dispatch, but I soon found out that he knew nothing about it. The quantity that could be filled in a day did not exceed 80 gallons ; and, after having landed all our water-casks, we had to te-ship them, through a great deal of surf, and land them at the galena, abreast of the ship. We filled our Virater at a well about a mile from the beach, but the supply was very limited, it being the only well that had water in it up to the day of our sailing. We did not complete our stock. Near the Morro de la Lagnna is a large lake, from which the headland takes its name. A few miles farther eastward is the Morro de Santiago de Ystapa (in the chart it is called Morro de Aynta), near which is the entrance of the small river Ayuta, the Btream that runs by Haamiluin and Ystapa. There is a bar across the entrance. The canoes land on the beach in preference to going over it, as it is attended with danger." The following remarks are by Captain Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871 : — " Port Guatulco, in lat. 15° 45', long. 96° 4', is recognized by the Bufadero. All this coast, from Washington bluff to port Sacrificios can be approached within two miles. The current in the dry season (winter) is generally to the S.E. and East along the land ; during the summer months (May to November) with southerly weather it is supposed to run to the N.W. and west. As you are constantly in the influence of the tides yon will find it very variable at all seasons. You will now enter the gulf of Tehuantepec, and if in the summer or rainy season, a course should be shaped for the coast of Guatemala if bound for San Jose ; or for capo Blanco, if to Panama via Panta Arenas. If bound to Panama direct from Tartar shoal, shape a course about E. by S. } S. for Montuosa island ; in the months of May, June, July, August and September by doing so you avoid the heavy rains and squalls found closer in-shore. ; J ; J 1. PORTS SA.CR1FICI03 AND ANGELES. 91 Yoa will find it necessary to keep more to the sonthward, say E.S.E. after the first day, as from that time nntil passing cape Blanco a strongN.W. or W.N.W. carrent will be experienced. In the winter season (from October to April) it is advisable to haul np round port Sacrificios towards the head of the gulf of Tehaan tepee ; the object being to keep under the lee of the land, in smooth water, in case it blows from the northward. I would here remark that, a gray mist hanging over the mountains and a red sunset, — the red extending toward the zenith, — are sure indications of a norther ; and if on entering the gulf, either from the eastward or westward, you meet with a north-westerly swell, a norther will surely follow. Sometimes double-headed clouds are seen to the northward, with clouds or mist hanging over the tops of the mountains ; at others it will blow a fresh gale without a cloud in the sky. The barometer does not indicate them, nor does the temperature of the water. These winds commence from the N.E. or N.N.E., veer round to the northward, and as you advance into the gulf veer to the N.W., and finally die out at West as you approach the coast of Guatemala. From Sacrificios to Ventosa you can follow the land at a distance of a mile. The whole coast between these points ie put on the chart about four miles too Jar to tho westward. Estrete island lies in lat. 16° 58', long. 95° 29' ; it is a large white rock. In about lat. 16° 59', long. 96° 20', is a remarkable sand down, a high bluff, visible a long way. It is about 16 miles from point Ventosa, and tho first after passing Sacrificios, though there are one or two between it and Salina Cruz. About half a mile off the first bluff to the N.E. of Estrete island, and between it an-' *he sand down there is a rock awash, the only known outlying danger." ■aeilfloioa is a little port situated about 10 miles south-westward from Guatulco. In front of it is an islet, about a quarter of a mile in extent, which shelters the bay from easterly winds ; this islet is surrounded by ro'sks, and the shore of the bay is also lined with rocks to a considerable distance. The depth of the anchorage is about 4 fa- thoms on sand. The approximate geographical position of the bay, according to Capt. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871, is lat. 15° 48', long. 96° 12'. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at Sb. 16m. f.h. ; the rise of tide is about 6 feet. A rock, on which the U.S.S. Tuscarora touched three times when attempting to get an anchorage off the entrance of Sacrificios bay, is stated to be about 1^ cables S.S.E. i E. from the south-west point of Sacrificios island. The rock has 11 feet water on it at low tide. Port Sacrificios is difficult to recognise. It is recommended therefore always to take your departure from White rock, an excellent mark, lying a mile off shore about IQi; miles to the westward of the port. White rock, according to Capt. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., is in lat. 15° 40', long. 96° 80'. Port Ancciu is a small harbour suitable only for schooners, &c., lying about 16 miles westward of port Sacrificios and li miles eastward of the White rock mentioned in the previous paragraph. It is a port of entry for the city of O^jaca, and has been open to foreign commerce since February 1868. The landing here is said to be bad, M MALDONADO POINT. behmd soma rocks, and the sarf is very violent. We have no instrnotionB of recent date relating to it. Tb« COAST westward of port Angeles, as far as Aeapnlco, a distance of about 200 miles, is very imperfectly known ; it shonld, therefore, have a wide berth given to it. It is stated that in lat. 15° 50', long. 97° 8' there is a high bluff with hats on it among the trees, and 8 or 4 miles eastward of this, a river, probably the Rio Sioaleta, 6 miles eastward of which is another river, the Rio Colotepeo. In lat. 15° 55', long. 97° 21' are two white rocks, known as the Aleatrazes ; to the westward of these are a few hats. Aboat 11 miles westward of the Aleatrazes is a large high blnff, 6 miles wide, known as Monro Hermoso, the geographical position of which is stated to be lat. 15° 68', long, 97° 82' ; 7 miles farther westward a smaller blnff (Little Motro) will be observed, close to the eastward of which is a reef and at the back of it a large lagoon. In lat. 16° 59', ' jng. 97° 48' is a river known as the Rio Verde ; in rainy weather the water in the neighbourhood of this river is frequently much discoloured. There are a few huts midway between the Littli Morro and the Rio Verde.* anodoiutdo votnt and adjaoant Bboaia. — Maldonado or Escondido point, the western extremity (El Reeodo) of which is in lat. 16° 18' 40", long. 98° 82' (U.S. Government Survey, 1878) is a tolerably well defined point, but cannot be recognised from the west- ward except when close in-shore, and when coming from eastward it disappears after passing the bearing of N.N.W. The shore trends from the point S.E. by E. } E. on one side and N.W. on the other. Close under and westward of the point is a small bight in which is a good boat landing, one mile from which fresh-water is found in abundance. The coast to the westward of Maldonado has a sandy beach, and for a distance of six miles is composed of a series of sand cliffs, 200 to 800 feet high, divided by ravines, which render them good landmarks. The coast to the eastward is rocky for a distance of 2 miles, with the exception of two small spots, each of which has a sandy beach. Within a distance of one siile from the point are several sand cliffs, about 260 feet high, which are prominent and show white to the southward. The entire country in the vicinity of the poiut is 800 to 400 feet high and thickly wooded. Gnacanl peak, on the eastern side of the point and close to the sea, is 400 feet in height ; the Bee Hive, 8 miles north-west of the point and nearly a mile inland, is of similar elevation. As the high land and land near the coast are frequently obscured by smoke at the close of the dry season, navigators are apt to be deceived as to their distance from the coast. Hence it is considered prudent at this time of the year to keep the liead going and not pass inside the 20-fathom line. About 2 miles south-westward of Maldonado point is a cluster of dangerous rocky patches known as the Tartar shoalsf. They have recently (1878) been examined by • Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.3. Co., 1871. t Captain Miguel Gurcier, coast pilot at Aeapnleo, statea, that from 2 to 8 miles off CnaoanI poiut (about 12 miles S.E. of the river Dnlce and the first break in the sandy head to the eastward) there is deep water and anchorage in 8 to 10 fathoms ; thence a shoal extends upwards of 4 miles seaward, breaking in the rainy season with 8.W. gales, and having as little as 10 feet water on it,— and this ioformation has been eorroborated Ly the evidence of the captains of several coasting •chooners. Faa page 92 \ 1 LOMDOir. Jamel Imra-V ^ Son ACAPULCO. 9i» the U.S. sarreyare (see plan on Admiralty chart No. 587, 1879) and the following in- formation is derived from their report . — The shoals lying off Maldouado (Escondido) point, regarding 20 fathoms as the ont- side limit of danger, '-rd inoloded between the bearings from the point of S.S.E. ^ E. 4 mile?, and W. J N. 5 miles. Within these limits the most dangerous rocky patches may thus be described : — A 8-iathom patch, extending E. by S. and W. by N. three- quarters of a mile, lies S.W. by S. 2 miles from the point, and near its western extremity are two rocks which have respectively 7i »eet and 13i feet water over them. A 8-fathom patch less than half a mile in extent, with a rocky head, on which there is only 16 feet water, lies S.W. by W. i W., 2 miles from the point. These two patches lie within a 6-fathom curve, with 9 fathoms all round. At about 1^ miles W.N.W. i W. from the point and about the same distance from the shore abreast is a shoal with 2 to 8 fathoms water over ii and about half a mile in extent. On the southern extremity of this shoal lies the wreck of the steamer City of San Francisco. For a distance of about 8 miles westward of the 5-fathom line the depths are irregular, varying from 6 to 11 fathoms, but beyond that distance the soundings increase gradually in a W. by S. diireetion to 40 fathoms, and in a southerly direction to 100 fathoms. Note. — The actual dangers to navigation are situated between the parallels of 16° 17' and 16° 21' and the meridians of 98° 85' and 98° 40', but to ensure safety the caution not to pass inside the 20-&thom line should be carefully observed when passing these i^hoals. Curfent. — The current sets in a sonth-easterly direction, varying between E. by S. asd StS.E., with a velocity varying from a half to 2 knots an hour ; strongr.bL on tii.<) ebb, E.S.E. Clv^vo into the point the flood sets to the northward and westward. It is said that during the wet season the current sets W. by N. About 6 miles S.W. of Maldonado point very heavy tide-rips were observed by the surveyors ; the depih in their locality was 18 fathoms. Dale* iuv«v lies about 12 miles north-west of Maldonado point. A sunken rock is inserted iu some ch&rts opposite the river Dulce, on the authority of the ship Clio, at about 8 milet; from the shore, in about lat. 16° 28', long. 98° 44' ; the depth around it is stated to be 6 fathoms. AOAPTyz.oo. — The port of Acapuico consists of a bay about 1^ miles deep and having an extent from East to West of about 8 miles, in which are soundings of 20 to 10 and 7 iuthoms. It is considered to be one of the finest harbours on the west coast of Mexico ; and, for its size, one of t^A most complete in the world. It afi'ords sheltered and land-looked anchorage in 16 fathoms water, over an extent of about one mile square. The bottom is sandy at its surface, but clayey beneath, and holds well. All round the harbour, on every side are high mountains, which, on the north and east sides, range itom 2000 to 2700 feet in height, and on the west side from 800 to 11 II.M.S. Tartar, when Blandioff aleug thia part of the ooaat on the 4th March, 1863, ground'ol on a sboal Bouth-oRBt of the river Duloe, in lat. 10° 11', long. US" 82'; the veaRel's draught was 18 feet, but the least water obtained was 0| fuitiouiH. 94 ACAPULCO. t I 1 600 feet. They afford considerable shelter to the harboar, and may be seen at a great distance at sea. Eastward of the port, and just outside the entrance, is a little bay named port Marques, having an extent of about 1^ miles in au easterly direction. The soundings in it are 20 to 6 fathoms, mud, sand and rook, and there is good shelter from all but \tresterly winds, which blow directly in. Its southern point, named Diamante, has a reef extending from it a short distance ; there is also a small islet or rock on the north side of the bay at about a cable from the shore, and at nearly the head oi the bay is a sunken rock ;^these can be easily avoided. Vessels seldom enter port Mar(|nes, the bay of Acapulco possessing superior advantages. Westward of the port and also immediately outside the entrance, is an island named Boqneta or Qrifo, which extends nearly East and West one mile and is of very irregular shape, but is about a third of a mile across in its broadest part, the middle. Its eastern and western extremities have each a reef extending seaward nearly 1^ cables, parts of which are above water ; in other respects the island is clear of any known suuken danger beyond a moderate oiSng. At a quarter of a mile from the island, there is a small islet or rook, 60 feet high, named Morro, outside of which is a depth of 20'fa- thoms. The passage between Boqueta island and the shore is about two cables wide, in its narrowest part, and has >i depth of 16 to 20 fathoms ; it is known as the Boca Chica, while the channel between tho east and west points of the harbour is termed the Bocp Qrando. At a third of a mile almost due east from the Morro islet, is a rock only 4 feet above the water, and having a depth slose to it of 10 and 12 fathoms. Its position is a dangerous one to vessels making Acapulco from westward, and rounding Grifo islabd rathor closely. Tho town of Acapulco is on the west side of the port, and has long been in a state of decline, owing to the bad custom-house regulations, which cripple the energies of its merchants, Its market is but indifferently sapplied; but fowls, and excellent fruit and vegetables, are readily obtained. Its position, according to the Admiralty chart No. 1944, is lat. 10° 60' 60", long. 99° 62' 15". In tho north part of tho bay are somo rocks named San Lorenzo, situated at a shoi*t distance from the shore, between which is no safe passage. About half a mile eastward of these is uuother rocky islet, called Obispo, of a white colour, and about 148 foot high. Tho depth on the seaward sido of theso rocks is 7 to 10 fathoms. <•> Somo mountains north-westward of Acapulco bay, named the Paps of Coynca, are considered to be a good mark by wliich tho situation of the bay may be known. The following remarks uro by Captain G. H. Richards, U.N., of H. M.S. Hecate 1808 : — " Tho port of Acapulco is 90 miles in an E. by S. i S. direction from Mangrove bluff, subsequently mentioned. In approaching it from westward tho Paps of Coyuca are :; good guide ; they are two distinct conical summits, and tho mountain is about • A rock, noarly Bwtish at low tide, wasdiacovcrod Bome years uro in tlie nortliorn part of Aoapuloo bay hy tlie Frniich «)iip Serteute Rtriking upon it. Tho depth over it was IS foot (?) and the position assigned to it was, 1000 niotiep or 101)8 yards N. 70" E., true, from fort Son Diego, which places it nearly on a supposed line from tht> fort to Obispi- islot. }■ AOAPULCO. 95 4000 feet h!gb ; it lies N.W. by N. nearly 80'' miles from Aoapnico, and 20 from tho coast. Tbe land westward of Acapulco is high. At the distance of 10 or 12 miles from the coast two distinct ranges are seen ; the nearer one about 2500 feet high ; and the TP'jte distant one, of which the paps form a portion, over 4000 feet. When the Paps of Coyuca bear N. by E. ^ E., a red stripe, or land-slip will be seen on the coast right nnder them. A square table-topped mountain rises just westward of Acapulco, to be- tween 2000 and 8000 feet. When within 8 or 10 miles of the port, Boqueta island is seen, which has a high, yellow, cliffy coast ; as also the point of the main land northward, forming the entrance of the Boca Ghica. Diamante point, which appears as the eastern extreme of the land, shows as ^u island at the distance of 7 or 8 miles ; the head of port Marques, of which it forms the south point of entrance, being low. Making Ac)>,pulco, from the sonth-wer;!; or south- ward, the entrance is remarkable, from the yellowish cliffs of Diamance point, and lloqueta island which may be seen at a considerable distance. The Paps of Coyuca are also seen, but the eastern peak appears cut off. There is also a white wooden tower on the summit of Boqueta island, which is used for a lighthouse and seen 6 or 7 miles off. The light is only exhibited when the Pacific mail steam company's vessels are expected."' 8ir Edward Belcher, B.N., says "I cannot persuade myself that the Paps of Coyuca are nseful for making the harbonr, although in the offing they may be if not obscured. Acapulco may be approached from southward or westward, by keeping the western cono open of the land, which will lead up to the Boca Cbica entrance, or until Acapulco port is so close under the lee, that no Airther marks are necessary. There is not any hidden danger in the entrance to Acapulco. Keep a moderate distance from either shore ; 6 fathoms will be found alongside all the rocks, and 25 to 80 in mid-channel. Bound point Qrifo (the western point of the harbour) sharply, rather than stand over to San Lorenzo, as the wind, generally westerly, heads on that shore. If working, taok when the rocks on the south point of Town bay show in the gap. The two best berths are off the rocks alluded to ; that outside is preferable, but in either case let the outer rock bear W.S.W. or W.N.W., so that a hawser fast to the rock may keep your broadside to land or sea breezes, and prevent a foul anchor. It would naturally be inferred that, as tho harbour is surrounded on every side by high mountains, tho breeze would scarcely be felt and the heat be intolerable. This is confined to the town limits ; at our^ observatory, and at the port, San Carlos, we enjoyed a constant breeze. In all harbours there may bo objectionable berths, but in that of Acapulco, if care be taken to keep in the line of what I have designated the 'West Gap,' or neck of the peninsula, open of the south point of the town bay, both laud and sea breezes will be felt in their full strength, and free from causes which would heat thorn before entering the port, the nock being but a few feet above tho soa-Iovel. Water of good quality was found at several points between the fort and Obispo rook ; but the two best streams are between the fort aud San Lorenzo." The following remarks are by Capt. W. H. Parker, P.M.S.B Co. (1871) :— •* Making Acapulco from westward, toko your departure from point Tejupan and i 06 ACAPULCO. White Hock point, and steer for Morro Petatlan^ Pass this point at a distance of 2 miles, and point Teqnepa one mile. Bun along the beach 1| miles off, and verify your position by taking the time when the bluff, 29 miles from the buoy at Acapulco, is abeam, and again by the ridge and peak 18 miles from the buoy. The light if shown will make a little on the port bow. Pass one-third of a mile from Grifo island, and with the starboard helm follow round to the buoy, keeping close to Grifo point. The only outlying danger is the rock lying N.E. by E. i E., three-eighths of a mile from the outer edge of Grifo inland, in a line with point Guitarron. If very dark steer about E.N.E. (heading about for point Bruja) until point Grifo is abeam — then haul up sharp for this point and you will clear the rock whether you see it or not. Yoa will be pretty snr j, however, to see the breakers on it. If there is no light on the buoy, steer midway between the two gaps in the land to the right of the Company's coal-sheds and you will find it. If running for this port from eastward, take a departure from the White rock off port Angeles and shape a course to pass just outside of Tartar shoal ; verify your position, and ascertain the vessel's speed by noting time of passing Morro Hermoso. Having passed the shoal, haul np about W. by N. J N. for Potrero point. The current frequently sets strongly to the eastward, and yon may be set in with the land about, the river — 21 miles from the buoy — in this ease haul out, and remember that the trend of the coast thence to Petrero point is about N.W. by W. i W. When the light bears N.W. by W. i W. run for it, and you will clear Potrero point. Pass one-third of a mile from Potrero, haul np and pass close to Bng'a point, and then run across and pass close to Grifo point, and so to the buoy. These points are readily distinguished in the darkest nights. There is no difficulty in leaving this harbour at any time." M. de Petit-Thouars of the French surveying vessel Venus, 1838, says "The currents are not felt in the road, but, outside it they run to the S.E. with a strength varying from a half to 2 miles. This current is more rapid during the ebb. In the fine season, that is to say from December to May, the land and sea breezes are regular enough. They are feeble during the night, coming from N. to N.E. and E. ; and from S.W. to W.S. W. and to N.W. in the day. In the other months of the year this coast is dangerous, and but little frequented. The usual anchorage is to the south of the fort, and before the town, in 11 to 18 fa- thoms, muddy bottom ; it is perfectly safe. In case of uocossity, anchorage can also be obtained in the Boca Grande." It is high water at Aoapulco on the days of full and change of the moon at 8h. Cm. ; the rise of tide is about 1 ^ feet. Wo believe that a small light is shown near the south-east end of Grifo island, when the steamers of the Pacific Mail Company ate expected. Tb« OOABT. — From Acapulco bay the coast trends about 80 miles in a W. by N. i N. lirection to point Tequepa, on the eastern side of which is the river Coyuquilla. We have ud information of this part of the const until wo got to Morro Potatlan, 20 miles farther to the north-westward, off which are some rocks named the Wliite Friars from SIHUATANEJO. 07 tlieir finpposed resemblance to a cross. They have been described by Lord Anson, in iho following manner :— <'The hill of Petatlan may be at first mistaken for an island, although it is in reality ft peninsula, joined to the continent by a low and narrow isthmus, covered with shrubs and small trees. The bay of Sihuatanejo extends from this hill a great distanoe to the westward, and has, at its entrance, just off the hill of Petatlan, an assemblage of rocks, white with the dung of boobies and other tropical birds. Four of these rocks are high and large, and, together with several smaller ones, are, by the aid of a little imagina- tion, made to resemble the form of a cross, and hence are called the White Friars." BiHVATARfiJO Is about 7 miles westward of Petatlan. It is a small but excellent harboar, of aboat a mile in extent, and open to all winds from south-westward. At its entrance are soundings of 10 fathoms, decreasing gradually towards the head of the bay, where there are 2^ to 1^ fathoms. T^ : 'n been surveyed by Captain Kellett, B.N., who places it in lat. 17° 38' 3", long. iJl" 80' 52". Lord Anson has described it in the following terms : — "It is about 80 leagues westward of Acapulco, and may easily be found by keeping well in with the land, especially if sailing down the coast from Acapulco. There is a beach of sand exteuding 18 leagues from / capulco to the westward, against which the sea breaks so violently that we found it impossible to land with our boats ; yet the ground is so clean, that, during the fair season, ships may anchor in great safety, at the distance of one or 2 miles from the shore. The land adjacent to this beach is generally low, full of villages, and planted with a great number of trees. On the tops of some small eminences there are several look-out towers, so that, altogether, the face of the country presents a very agreeable aspect ; for the cultivated part, which is the part here described, extends some leagues back from the shore, where it seems to be bounded by a chain of mountains, which extends a considerable distance on either side of Acapnico. The beach described above is the surest guide to those seeking Sihuatanejo ; for 6 miles westward of the extremity of the beach there is a hummock, which at first makes like an island, and is in shape not much unlike the hill of Petatlan, though much smaller. Three miles westward of this hummock is a white rock near the shore, which cannot easily be passed by unobserved. It is about 2 cables from the shore, and lies in a largo bay about 9 leagues over, tbe west point of which is the hill of Petatlan. The harbour of Sihuatanejo is easily distiuguishcd by a large rock, 1^ miles S. i W. from the middle of the entrance. I may add that this coast is no ways to be dreaded between the middle of October and the beginning of May, uor is there any danger from the winds. In the remaining part of the year, there are frequent and violent tornadoes, heavy rains, and severe gales, from all points of the composs. These are the marks by which the harbour may be known by those who keep well in with the land ; but there is no mark for those who keep at a considerable distance at sea, who must, consequently, make it by the latitude ; for there are so many ranges of mountains rising one upon another inland, that no drawings of the appearance of the coast can bo at all depended on, every little chaugo of distance or position bringing new mountains into view, and producing an iufluity of different prospects, which render all attempts at delineating the appearance of the land impossible. u I 96 SIHUATANEJO. The entrance of the harhonr id bat half a mile broad ; the points which form it, and which are faced with rocks almost perpendicular, bear from each other S.E. and N.W. The barboar is surroanded on every side, excepting the western, with high mn^n^ttimfi covered with trees. The passage in is very safe, on either side of the rock that lies off the entrance, though we, both in going in and out, left it to the eastward. The gronnd withoat the harhonr is gravel mixed with stones, but within is soft mad. It is neeessary, when coming to an anchor, to make a good allowance for a great swell, which fireqaently causes a great send of the sea ; as, likewise, for the ebbing and flowing of the tide, which we observed to be about 6 feet, and to set nearly East and West. The watering-place is at the head of the bay. During our stay it bad the appear- ance of a large standing lake, without any visible outlet into the sea, from which it is separated by the strand. The origin of this lake is a spring, which babbles oat of the gronnd nearly half a mile inland. We found the water a little brackish, but more considerably so towards the sea-side ; for the nearer we advanced towards the springs head, the softer and fresher it proved. This hid us under the necessity of filling our casks from the farthest part of the lake, and occasioned us some trouble ; and would have proved still more difficult, had it not been for our particular management, which, on aecount of its convenience, deserves to be recommended to all watering at this place. Oar method consisted in making use of canoes drawing but little water; for, on loading them with a number of Bmall casks, they easily got up the lake to the spring-head, and the small casks being there filled, were in the same manner trans- ported back to the beach, where were some of the hands to put them into casks of »- larger size. Though this lake, daring onr risit, appeared to have no outlet to the sea, yet there is reason to suppose thai in the lainy season it overflows the strand and commuuicatea with tha sea, for Dampier speaks of it as a large river. Indeed it is necessary that a Tast body of water should be amassed before it can rise high enough to overflow the strand, since the neighbouring lands are so low that a gi-oat part of them must be covered with water before it can run out over tbe beach." Vh« OOabt. — From Sihaatanejo harbour tbe coast trends north-westward and west- ward about 66 miles to a low, well-defined point of land, named Mangrove bluff, situated in let. 17° 54' 5", long. 102° 12' 41", and forms thereby a largo open bay, at the head of which are what are termed in tbe charts, tlie Canuta or Salt-pits. Over the east side of Salt-pit bay is a high and very roniarkablo mountain. '*■' At a short distance from the north-west side of Sihiiatanejo harbour, are throe white islets or rocks, known as the Tlancos islets, of which the easternmost is the largest ; they are square in form and not unlike a haystack in shape ; and are very oonepioaous from the offing. The depth at nearly 2 miles immediately south of Mangrove bluff is only 14 fathoms, * A little river, tlie Bncatnla, ia repreeented in an old clinrl as fnllinf; into the sea on the eaat aide of Mangrove bluff, but Captain Riclmvdg, R.N., Bays tliat if tlicro h a stream it muat be n very imall en*, for Doihiug of the kind oonld be dieting iehed from the uiait-liead at the diatance of 1} milea. MANGROVia BLUPF, &ti. M t>tt a bliingle bottoii), and this depth continnes eastward of the blaff ut the same distance from the shore, for about 8 or 4 miles, when it suddenly deepens. At 8 miles west- ward of the blufif, singularly enough there is a depth of 1B2 fathoms, on mud, at scarcely 2 miles from the be«ch. From Mangrove bluff the coast trends W. by N. about 50 miles to a low cliffy headland, named Lizard point, in about lat. 18° 11', long. 108" 5', and is throughout Dearly straight and without any remarkable feature. Some of the mountains close to the sea are llOO feet high, and at 6 miles eastward from the point is one which rises to the height of 1500 to 2000 feet. The soundings at miles westward from the bluff, and 8 miles off shore; afe 60 to 70 fathoms, mud, which soon decreases to 40 and 85 fathoms, and this latter depth is maintained as far as 8 miles eastward from Lizard point at a corresponding distance from the land, — namely 8 miles. From Liaard point, the coast (which is generally steep and rises abruptly to thd height of 2000 feet) trends W. by N. ^ N., a distance of 27 miles to Tejupan bluff, a low point, with several large rocks or islets off it. Vessels frequently anchor here in the dry season, close inshore and inside of the islets. At 10 miles before reaching the bluff there is a bold projecting point of land, known as White Rock point, from the circumstance that three white rocks lie off it in an S.S^E. direction; inside of these rocks is a fertile looking spot with a village, and probably landing and shelter for boats. At about 11 miles from the sea, and nearly midway between Lizard point and Teju- pan bluff, is the mountain named the Paps of Tejupan. It is 6800 feet high, has a double nipple summit, and appears conspicuously to a vessel passing up or down th0 coast, but not so distinctly when viewed directly from seaward, as it is then over- shadowed by the ranges of mure lofty mountains behind it. From Tejupan bluff, the coast, composed alternately of sandy beach and high cliff, trends about N.W. to Black head, a distance of 18 mileSi The hills rise in successive ranges parallel with thd coast-line ; those near the sea have an estimated height of 1500 to 2000 feet, while those farther inland are much higher. Black head, in lat. 18° 8B' 18", long. 108° 41' 61", is a cliffy peninsula, connected to the shore by a sandy neck. A small white rock, 47 feet high, lies half a mile NAV. of the northern extreme of the peninsula, and a bay (where there is anchorage in fine weather in 14 fathoms at Ij- miles from the shore) lies northward of the rock. There is also anchorage in 10 fathoms at about 7 miles south-eastward from the head, at one mile from the shore. The depth at 8 miles off Tejupan bluff is very great, as the bottom was not reached by the Mtfe^fora with a line of 172 fathoms, and this deep water was found to exist, at a similar distance from shore, foi* 20 miles eastward of the bluff or aS far as Lizard point. Northward of the bluff, this deep water is succeeded by soundings of 55 to 40 fathoms, decreasing as Black head is approached, off which, at 2 miles due West^ is a depth of 88 fathoms, sand. The mountains in the interior of this part of Mexico Are very lofly. That named Colima, 12,000 feet high, the summit of which is estimated to be in lat. 10° 24' 42"« long. 108" 88' 1", is very remarkable when seen distinctly ; but the hazo, which generally hangs over the distant land, renders this seldom the case, and it therefore cannot be counted Upon as a land-mark. It is a saddle-shaped mountain, having twei u2 100 MANZANILLA BAY. '! tiharp conical summits, of apparontly nearly the same height ; the borizolitfll measure* ment between them from ofl' Tejnpnn bluff is 45 miles. Mttuaxa, a new Mexican port, about 5 miles no .ih-westward from Tejnpan blnff, is situated on the nortb side of a creek commnnicating with a larg? lagoon and the sea. The village consists of the castom-hetise (a hut made of palm leaves) and four or five Indian huts. Its approximate geographical position, according to Commanders Main' waring and Long, R.N., 1875, is lat. 18" 27', long. 108° 83'. The anchorage is bad, being exposed to all winds from seaward except N.W., and the shelter from that quarter is indifferent ; the bottom is loose sand. Coasters anchor in Si fathoms about 200 yards from the shore. Food is scarce and water bad. The locaGty is unhealthy. Communication with the interior is by bridle-paths only ; the nearest town of importance is Colima, 150 miles distant. Brazil-wood is shipped daring the fine season occasionally. Gold diggings exist on the river Ostula, about 15 miles northward of Mamata, and silver mines near Coalcoman, a town situated 120 miles in the interior, and con- taining about 1500 inhabitants. From Black head to the Sail rock, off point San Francisco, the eastern point of Manzanilla bay, the distance is about 43 miles in a W.N.W. direction. The coast between is low, being not more than 20 to 27 feet high, and is fronted by a sandy bdauL KAXVSAiffXXiX>A 8A-r. — ^Manzanilla and Browning bays (the latter a small bay immediately north-westward of Manzanilla bay, from which it is separat"a only by » little narrow projection of coast, named Pelican point) have an extent together of about 5 miles in a nwrtb-westerly direction ; from a supposed line connecting the outer points of these bays the coast recedes 3.} miles. The soundings at the entrance are about 40 fathoms, and these decrease gradually to the beach, off which at a moderate dis- tance is a depth of 5 to 8 fathoms. The village of Manzanilla is in the south-east part of the bay, and consists of only a few huts. Behind it is a large lake which, with the marshy land surrounding it, makes the port very onbealthy, especially in the fine season. In Manzanilla bay there is good shelter from southerly winds but not from those directly from westward. Browning bay is open to southward, and is consequently safe only mth off-shore winds. The anchorage in Manzanilla bay is at about a third of a mile northward of the houses, in to 10 fathoms, and it is said that the ground holds well. When approaching either of the bays from westward, a good look-out must be maintained for the Sisters, a cluster of rocks above and under water, situated rather more than half a mile S.S.E. from Gowllaud point, the west extremity of Browning bay. Manzanilla is the port of Colima. a large city about 90 miles in the interior, which is reported to have 80,000 inhabitants. It has been open to foreign vessels a great many years, but is still far from prosperous. Manzanilla bay was surveyed by Captain O. H. Richards, R.N., in 1868, and the west end of the village ascertained to bo in lat. 10° 8' 18", long. 104° 17' 41". He observes "The bay may bo known by White islet, 2i miles westward of its western MANZANILLA BAY. 101 point of entrance.* A high rock liea close off this point ; and another white rock (100 feet high), resembling a sail, at a quarter of a mile off the eastern point. From the westward they are both remarkable. Approaching Manzanilla from westward, the Vigia Grande, a remarkable cone-shaped hill, will also be seen just inside the Sail rock; it is 740 feet high, and rises immediately over the anchorage. As neither the houses nor shipping can be seen from seaward, this is a good mark to steer for, passing from 1^'to 2 miles outside the White islet, and the same distance from the west point of entrance, when the Vigia Grande will bear E. i N., and may be steered for. This course will lead more than a mile southward of or outside the Sisters, a gi-oup of five rocks, the largest of which is 10 feet high. They lie in a direct line between the west point of entrance and the Yigia Grande, distant from the former 2} miles. A very remarkable table-topped mountain, 2G00 feet high, rises over the western point of the bay, and is an excellent guide for the port. The anchorage is immediately ander the Vigia Grande, about a third of a mile from the village, in 9 or 10 fathoms water ; over mad, and good holding ground. The bay is safe with all winds except gales from West or S.W., which do not occur between the months of November and June, — the dry season, and singularly enough, the least healthy ; fevers and ague prevail, more or less, at all times, but are more fatal during the dry season. It is not recommended to lie here more than four or five days at a time, and to take an off-shore berth, where the sea breeze will reach. Fresh beef and vegetables, as well as other necessaries, can be obtained here. Fresh water should on no account be received on board ; it is desirable that the crews o( vessels should land as seldom as possible, and not be exposed in boats when avoidable." The following remarks on Manzanilla bay are from the work of M. Duflot de Mofras, 18-1<1 : — " Manzanilla or Salagua port is infinitely superior to the open roadsteads of San Bias and Mazatlan. It contains four excellenl anchorages, and vessels of considerable draught of water can anchor in it s,t ail times. To find the bay, when at a distance from the land, it is ueoessary to get into its latitude and then steer in for the coast, having as a kuilmark the double peak of the volcano of Colima. When near the port, the entrance of which is wide, it will be seen that it is divided into two bays by Pelican point which runs to the southward ; the eastern bay is named Manzanilla ; the western. Browning, and it is in this latter that the best watering place is to be found. When the wind is from southward, it is preferable to anchor in the eastern bay, which may bo reached from the entrance by stucring in a N.E. ^ E. direction ; the anchorage is in Oi to 9 fathoms opposite Sau Pedrito rock. The wexlent bay may be reached by steer- ing N.E. i N., and passing the Frailes rocks, which surround the second point of Jiiluapan, the anchor should be cast in 5 or 6 fathoms behind the hill, at a short • Known as Piedra Blanoa, an islet 300 feet liigli, and in lat. 19" 6", long. 104° 27' 30", according to the chart of Captain G. II. BiohardB, 11. N. It is il miles westward from tlie anchorage in the bay, and lies about one mile bom the shore. It is n quarter of a mile long, appenrJng wpdge-shaped when seen from westward, and remarkubly white, being the resort of nmuerous sea birds. This islet is the mark for Manzanilla bay, and may ho seen from westward iramodiattly on rounding Navidad bead, a distanoe of nearly 20 miles ; it then appears just inside the extreme of the land. It oan be seen easily from a vesBers deck at a distance of 15 miles, when bearing from E. i S., round 1^ north to W.N.W. 102 MANZANILLA BAY. li § distance from the shore.')' To attain the anchorage in this bay with a leading wind steer North a little easterly or westerly to avoid Pelican rock off Pelican point, which point it has already been observed is directly opposite the entrance. The tide ocoars every 24 hoars, the flood in the morning and the ebb in the evening; it rises aboat 7 feet, and the current runs to the southward. Manzanilla is at abont 20 leagues from the city of Golima, the capital of the territory of that name. The road from the sea is sufficiently good for carts, and the distance might be considerably diminished by means of a short cut which wonld place the port in commanication with the salt lagoon of Cayutlan, navigable by large flat boats. With the exception of frequent earthquakes (and goitres, with which the inhabitants of Golima are affected) there is nothing remarkable in the city ; the population amounts to about 20,000, who are wholly occupied in agriculture and commerce. At 8 leagues from Manzanilla bay in an E.N.E. direction is the yoloano of Colima, the most western of the Mexican volcanoes. Its summit is 11,995 feet high ; it is in activity and emits sulphureous vapours, cinders and stones, but no lava has flowed from it for a long period. The diameter of its crater is 492 feet, and its edge jagged. The sides of the mountain are barren and cliffy. The sulphur on it is of bad quality. At ft league northward of the volcano there is an extinct crater, the summit of which is covered with snow ; this is 690 feet higher, and consequently has an elevation of 12,690 feet. The great height of these mountains renders them vinble from a con- siderable distance at sea, hence in clear weather they form an excellent means of recognising the land when approaching Manzanilla. The valley in which Colima is situated is apparently formed of volcanic products and decomposed lava. No minerals are found in it, but only very beautiful specimens of porphyry. The vegetation of the plain consists of palms, aloes, pomegranates and fine orange trees. Upon the higher lands are forests of sombre pines, covering the part of the Sierra Madre which extends almost to Yalladolid." The following remarks are by Mr. G. H. E. Horn, of the Hamburg barque Colima, 1860 *. — " When making tbe port of Manzanilla, the white rooky island of Piedra Blanoa is an excellent mark, as it is seen from a considerable distance, standing out in contrast with the darker hue of the coast behind and of the rocks near it. Having sighted this islet, bring it to bear about N. by W., when a lofty peak in the interior will bear N, ^ W., you then have Manzanilla, behind point San Francisco, about N. 80° E., on which course steer for the port. Approaching the coast you will obsen'e the heads of several islets and rocks that lie about 1 or 2 cables off shore and around which is deep water. From off point San Francisco, the bay has a regular decreasing depth from 27 fathoms outside to 5 fathoms within a cable's length of the shore. Give this point a good berth, as off its extremity, at the distance of about 80 yards, there are teveral rocks, above and under water ; it is also advisable not to carry more sail than necessary to keep steerage way on the vessel, for the harbour of Manzanilla being small you must anchor almost immediately you have passed the point. When at the anchorage * The Bisters rooka appear to be in tbe way o( this course. See the plau of Mansanilla bay ia tb« Admiralty chart No. 610, MMMMi MANZANILLA BAY. 108 vessels can moor in perfect safety within half a cable of the beach ; — it will be much in your favour to bring up as near the shore as possible, as you can then discharge and load with greater rapidity. Making the bay you must not expect to see an inhabited place of importance ; to the westward, in the small harbour of San Antonio,* there is a rancho of eight or nine huts, while to the eastward, in the harboar of Manianilla, is the town of the same name, containing a few houses and about fifty huts, but these are not visible until you have rounded point San Francisco. The harboar is quite safe in both seasons. The crews of vessels frequently suffer from sickness here, occasioned by exalations from the great swamps near Manzanilla ; added to which there is no good water to be procured in the harbonr." Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co (1871) gives the following directions for making Manzanilla : — " In making Manzanilla from the westward it is better to get hold of the " Frailes," then Navidad head, Cape Graham and White island — passing about one mile from these points. The only out-lying danger is the Sister rock, about half a mile off Gowlland point. If very dark or thick, you can easily make sure of avoid- ing this rock by keeping over towards the starboard shore — run five miles from White island and then haul up, bringing the Sugar Loaf (Vigia Chico) on your starboard bow ; as you pass this close to, the lights of the town will open. Should there be no light on the buoy, it may be found by steering (about E. by S. i S.) directly for a high peak with which the buoy is in line. Bound into Manzanilla from the eastward pass point Tejnpan at a distance of two miles, and verify your position by taking the time when Black head is abeam. You have then but 42 miles to run to Manzanilla point, and there is nothing to excuse your ininning by the harbour. Manzanilla point is a bluff headland, and yon will be sure to see it if you keep close enough to the shore. Sail rock will make out to the left of the point, unless you are set off, in which case it will be on with the point and cannot be seen. Pass one-third of a mile from the rock and point, and follow the land round with a port-helm to the buoy. It is all a bold shore." Tbe COAST. — From Manzanilla bay the coast trends W. by N. about 20 miles to cape Graham, the south point of Navidad bay, situated in lat. 19° 10' 80", long. 101" 40' 30". Throughout nearly the whole of this distance (for 13 miles eastward of the cape) it consists of a low s'lore, not moro than 15 or 20 feet high, fronted by a sandy beach, and having behind it a lagoon. In the interior the land rises in distinct ranges to between 8000 and 4000 feet. On this sandy beach boats may generally land during fine weather, and there is safe anchorage in 18 fathoms at half a mile from the shore. Cap* orabam is about 700 foet high and has a high peaked rook close to it, as well as a smaller one, which, ho-.vever. do not readily appear as detaohedfrom the land from any position that a vessel would bo iu. There is also a small rock (12 feet above low water and always visible, being a few fuet above the surface at high tide) at about half * Wo suppose that this is Bi'nwniii^ uay uf Captain Itioliards' chart. 104 NAVIDAD BAY. a mile S.W. from tlm cape; on account of tbia rock, some caro is required vrhea approaching Navidad bay from south-eastward. JVAVZOAS BAT is formed by cape Graham and a very white projecting point of land named Harbour point, 2^ miles N.N.W. from it. It has soundings shoaling from 25 fathoms at the entrance to 6 and 5 fathoms at a short distance from the beach, or sand. The anchorage is in the north port of the hay, in 6 to 7 fathoms, under Harbour point, which protects it from south-west winds. At nearly 6 miles westward from the anchorage is a bold headland, named Navidad head, which is a conspicuous point of land especially when viewed from north-westward. Navidad bead and bay are thus described by GaptainG.H. Richards, B.N. ; — " Navidad headis awedged-sbaped summit, about 400 feet high, falling in shore to a low neck, and is remarkable when seen from any direction. On approachibg it within 8 or 4 miles, it is. seen to be an island, separated from the main by a low locky ledge, which the water rises over. Off the head are three remarkable rocks, extending in a south-west direction ; the centre one being white with a smooth round top, covered with vegetation, and about 70 feet high. These rocks give the head some slight resemblance to Farralone point, with the Frailes rocks (9 miles westward from it) when seen from the north-westward ; but the peculiar shape of the wedge island would prevent the possibility of a mistake after the first glance. The White rock of Navidad has been mistaken for the White islet of Manzanilla by strangers, and accidents have occurred in conseqneDce, but this mistake could only have arisen in the absence of any chart. The Navidad rock is small, the centre of three, and stands off a prominent headland. The White islet of Manzanilla, 20 miles to the south- eastward, is very much larger, remarkably white, and stands alone, a mile from the shore, but, being rather in a bight, cannot be seen projecting from any iv»<"'tion a vessel would be in. Besides the three high rocks off Navidvi head, there is a sunken one, which occasionally breaks, and lies S.E. i E. fioia Wiute rock, distant a short mile. After rounding Navidad head from the north-,\i»nl at the distance of 2 miles, the white sandy beach of Navidad bay will be seen, bearing E. by N., distant 7 miles. At 2 miles southward from the White rock of Navidad there are 60 fathoms water, and steering thence for the anchorage it gradually shoals to 40 and 80 fathoms. The north beach of Navidad bay is in lat. 19° 13', long. 104° 41' 25". As the bay is approached, Harbonr point, a very remarkable high white point, will be seen on the northern shore. Immediately round and inside this is the anchorage, a very fair stopping place during the fine season, but it is not recommended for a sailing vessel at other times, as there is a difficulty in getting out with a S.W. wind ; — the best berth is in 7 fathoms water, sandy bottom, with Harbour point bearing S.S.W. a quarter of a mile, and the same distance from the eastern shore of the bay, — sailing vessels may anchor farther out, with the point bearing West, in 10 or 11 Mhoms, but there will bo more swell. A single house stands in the north hook of the bay, and a lagoon within a few yards of the beach, where the water is fresh, and the natives say good, but it is not recommended to use it unless a vessel is in distress. At the south-east end of the bay is the north-west end of a long lagoon which here opens into the sea ; a strong stream runs out of it, and there is sufficient depth fur boats at half tide. There is a small TENACATITA AND PERULA BAYS. 105 village here, aad some supplies of fresh provisions may bo obtained. The anchorage o£f this end of the bay is not recommended." TBHAOATZTA BAT. — From Navidad head the ccast turns sharply northward fur about 4 miles, and then trends westerly about 5 miles to Brothers point, tlie coast between these headlands forming a large bay named Tenacatita. The direct bearing and distance of Brothers point from Navidad head are N.W. by W. ^ W 5 miles. Brothers point has a rather remarkable double hill immediately over it, which from northward appears like an island; off the point is a high, square, perpendicular rock, and there are also some smaller ones about it above water, and others farther out which from their position are dangerous. The most dangerous of the known rocks are the Porpoise, 7 feet above water, lying 14 miles W. by S. from the point ; and another, upon which tbo sea breaks, S.E. by S. 8^ cables from the point. On account of these rocks. Brothers point should have a berth of 2 miles, Tenacatita bay is about 2^ miles deep, and is said to contain one or two rocks in its north-west part. It has not been minutely examined, and should consequently be entered with caution. It is asserted that there is good anchorage in its north-west comer, where protection may be obtained from winds from north-westward. Sheltered anchorage may be found off the village, on the east side of the bay, during the wet season, and in West bay during the dry season. Tamarinda bay, on the east side, also affords a secure anchorage, but there is more swell than off the village. Tenacatita bay is considered preferable to Manzanilla as an anchorage, and is said to be more healthy. It is easy of access, and appears free from hidden dangers, with the exception of the rocks off Brothers point. The soundings are regular and the rocks appear steep-to. After passing the line joining Brothers point and Tenacatita head, do not approach the west shore within half a mile nor the eastern shore within a quarter of a mile. If bound to West bay, pass eastward and northward of Bird islet, which is 10 feet high and has 8 fathoms water close-to. A good berth off Tenacatita village is in 10 fathoms, with the village open north- ward of the outer rock off Breakwater point avA Flat rock (3 feet high, and having 8 fathoms close-to) showing a little inside Tenacatita head. From the berth recommended the water shoals regularly toward the shore, and a vessel loading may, if desii'ed, anchor closer in 7 fathoms. Water may be procured either near the village or in Tamarinda bay. Fire-wood is abundant. Cattle abound in the vicinity of the bay. Coquita nut shells are abundant.* FBBUXiA BAT. — From Brothers point the coast trends about 18 miles in a i orth- westerly direction to Flat . Top point, the south extremity of Perula bay, which may be easily recognised by the remarkable flat-topped mountain, 1100 feet high, which rises over it and is conspicuous from northward and westward. When running along this shore, the Frailes, situated about 6 miles from Brothers point, will present them- selves to view as two needle-shaped rocks from 80 to 100 feet high ; and at about 7 miles from these is a low projecting point named Farralone. Perula bay is formed by Flat Top point and a projection of the coast nearly 7 miles * The above information respecting Teuacatita bay is mainly derived from a report by Com. B. Long, H.M.S. Fantome, 1876. 106 PERULA BAY. north-westward from it, named Rivas. In its north-wbat corner there is excellent anchorage ia 8to 9 fathoms, sand, but nnfortanately it is directly open to southerly winds, which frequently send in a very heavy sea. According to Captain G. H.Richards R.N., whose description of the bay we subjoin, the position of Rivas point is l»t. 19° 84' 81", long. 105° 6' 38". " Ferula bay, a spacious and convenient anchoi'age, is easily recognised from any direction by two islands, which lie in the centre of it ; the northernmost of which, Fassarera, 130 feet high, is remarkable from its perpendicular white cliffs which are seen from a long distance. Colorada, the southern island, is rather lower, and has a slightly reddish appearance. The best anchorage is in the northern part of the bay. The entrance is between Rivas point and Fassarera island, and is a mile in breadth ; the depth of water from 15 to Id fathoms. Rivas point is bold and cliffy, with some dotached rocks 1^ cables off it, the onter one of which is 80 feet high. From this rock a reef^ 2 feet above high water, and on which the sea always breaks, lies East, distant 1^ cables, with deep water close to it. There is anchorago iinywhere within a line between Rivas point and Fassarera island, in from 10 to 14 fathoms water, but the most sheltered is with the high rook off Bivas point bearing S.W. by S., distant about half a mile, or midway between it and the sandy beach on the eastern side of the bay, where there are 4 and 5 fathoms at 1^ cables from the beach. Small vessels may anchor in the northern bigh» of the bay, and be more out of the swell. At the south-east end of the bay, nearly 4 miles from Rivas point, is the village of Chamela. Vessels wishing to anchor near it should enter between Golorrda 'slandand the small islands to the south-east of it ; this channel is two-thirds of a mile wide, and free from danger. Large vessels may anchor in 8 fathoms, with the south point of Cclorada island bearing S.W. by W., and the viUiige of Ohamela just open of San Fedro islaud, midway between the island and the shore of the bay. Small vessels may anchor in 4 fathoms inside Cucina iHland, whore they will bo two-thirds of a mile from the village ; insido this it shoals rapidly, and oil' the village there is only one fathom water. From Fassarera island a bar extends to the opposite sandy point of the bay, distant two-thirds of a mile ; the lea^t depth of water on it is 8 fathoms, so that vessels of greater draught cannot pass from the northorn auchorago to the southern part of the bay, but must go outside the islands. The bottom is sandy, but good holding ground. Duriug the fine season, from November till June, the sea breeze from N.W. is regular during the day, and the laud wind at night, and the anchorage is perfectly safe ; but with S.W. or S.E. wiudfi a heavy swell sets into every part of the bay. Supplies of fresh beef, putiipkius, and water-melons may be had at the village, by giving a day's notice ; thnro is also good water from a stream close tu it. Dy6-wood is exported, but of an inferior quality." Tu« COAST.— From Rivas point the count trends N.W. | N. about 60 miles to eapa Oorrioutes, and tho land throughout is lofty, rising into peaks of 500 to 1100 feet elevation* Whou sailing down tliis Co., ♦ from north- westward, it will bo observed that a sandy beach connnuucus inunodiately southward of the cape. Soundings of 45 to 65 fathoms may bo obtained at 3 miles from tho laud, whei< 4 miles southward of the capo, and wbeuovor a sandy beach liuu is mot with, a depth of 10 or 20 fathoms water will CAPE CORRIENTES. 107 generally be found within a mile of it, where vessels maj' anchor if necessary. This coast is not considered safe between.June and the erd of November, during which time S.E. and S.W. gales are prevalent, bringing in a heavy sea. Between 5 or 6 miles southwai'd of cape Oorrientes is a rather dangerous reef, known as Cucharitas. That part of it above water projects from the land westward about 1^ miles, and consists of three or four small rocks, against which the sea breaks heavily. Two sunken rocks are stated to exist about half a mile outside these ; hence the coast hereabout should not be closely approached. The land is somewhat low about Cucharitas, but rises at a short distance from the beach. CAVii COBBXBNTB8 is a bold and lofty headland, with rather a flat summit, which rises to the height of between 2000 and 8000 feet ; hence it is visible from a gieat distance at sea. Its extreme point is estimated to be in lat. 20° 25', long. 105° 89'. From northward and westward it does not present a remarkable appearance, but firom southward it is bold and projecting. There are no known sunken dangers off it, and the sea ie very deep in its immediate vicinity, as the surveyors when 4 miles westward from it failed iu touching the bottom, although sounding 106 fathoms. CAPE CORRIENTES TO MAZATLAN. Maijnetic Vanatkm in 1879 x—At Bamieras Day 9° 10' E.; San Bias 9° 20' E : Tres Marias Islands 9° 25' E. ; Mazatlan 9° 40' E. The annual increase is estimated to be ^ or "i minutes. n BAMDBRAB BAT. — At capo Corrieutcs the coast trends N.E. by E. ^ E. 28 miles, then northerly ;ibcuf, 8 miles, and afLerwards almost West to a narrrow projecting point of land, known as point Mitn ; the bearing and distance from the cape to the point being N. by E. ^ E. 24 miles. The space included within these limits is the buy of Banueras, which may bo considered to ha^e an extent of about 20 miles from West to East, and to bo 17 to 9 miles broad. The southern coast of the bay as far as the river Real at its head, a distance of 28 miles, is high and precipitous, with occasional valleys, through which small frosh-wator streams descend to the sea. From this river to point Piodra Blanca, about 11 milos to the northward and westward, the shore is low, sandy and covered with bushoH; it then rises into broken bluffs 10 to 20 feet high, with occasional sand-beaches, which coutiuno us far as point Mita. The bay in nearly every part is ntposod to the full force of westerly winds, the only places of shelter being in CorralieiJ hnrhour, aud off its noithoi-n ^'.loro under point Piedra Blanca. At a very short distance from its soutlicrn coast there is no bottom at 60 fathoms, but a bank extends from its northern nlioro a cousidoruMe distau^e, the depth being 22 fathoms at about 8 miles south-westward from point Piedra Blanca. It is believed to be clear of any sunken rocks exrept tliu roofs off poiui Iglesia, mentioned subsequently. Oenraiits. — At about & milos oustwurd from cape CorrioutcH is the little harbour of 103 YLAPO AND PENAS. ll Corralies, in which vessels can anchor and ohtain shelter from all winds except those from north-westward ; bat as only fine breezes ever come from that quarter, its pro- tection may be considered complete. The entrance is free from danger beyond a few yards from the shore, and there is deep water almost close to the rocks or coast ; the harbour also so singularly resembles a basin or slip in its perfect smoothness and safety, that a large ship could anchor near the laud and get oat fasts, thus lying in perfect security. The land rises abruptly around it, particularly to the southward and westward. There were no inhabitants in 1869, and it was believed to be destitute of fresh water. The country in its vicinity is heavily timbered. The depth in the middle of the basin or inner harbour is about 80 fathoms, and within an oar's length of the beach t fathomi ; near the rocks within the same dislo^noe, it is 7 fathoms, sandy bottom. The water is wonderfully clear, conseqnently any sunken rocks can be readily seen. The only disadvantages of the bay are, it is small and very deep.* Point Iglesia, about 4 miles N.E. f £. from cape Gorrientes, may bo easily recog- nised by a castellated rook which stands out from the land nearly a mile, and viewed from westward appeat-s like an irregular cube. Outside this rock, perhaps a mile, are two reefs 9 feet under water, over which the sea breaks occasionally. On account of these reefs it is advisable to give this part of the coast a berth of at least 2^ miles. Tiapo. — From point Iglesia tho coast trends 1^ miles N.K. | E. to point Obimo, then E.N.E. i E. 4} miles to point Teioniala, and afterwards E. ^ N. 3J miiee to Ylapo harbour, at the mouth of a small river of the same name, which is only a break in the rocky shore extending into the laud about half a milo. From seaward the har- ''our appears broader than that of Corralios, and its depth of water is probably not so '» iiderable. It is stated to be free from sunken daugorH, and to afford good shelter V, ^>n S.W. gales. Vessels anchor in 15 to 20 fathoms, and obtain supplies of water irom the river. From Ylapo harbour the coast trends E.N.E. J E. 3} miles to Quemisto, a bight with a sandy beach in which partial shelter from south-wuHtcrly winds can bo obtaii el. Here are, or were (18G9), numerous lar}:;e houses or barracks which are used as (|uartora for the men employed to load ships with log-wood. From Quemisto to the Boca do Totnutlan tho distance is about 8 miles E. A B. This harbour is very small, being merely a dock or slip in tho rocks at the mouth of the little river Tomatlau. It is of more liiiiitod extent than Corralies harbour, and quite as deep ; it will consequently accommodate only very small vuhhoIs. About 2 miles eastward of the Boca do Toniutluii are thrco rocks near the shore, named ArcuH, the largest of which is 210 feet high. The others aro 20 and PO teot high respectively. r«nas. — Four or Ave mites northward from the Arcos rocks is t>;e mou-h ' . U.9 river Ileal, whoro is the village of Ponas, which in frcqiioutod for dye-nood. Here • Ooniniander Qeori^o Dewey, U.S. NHvy, doc h not re])iirt mi favourably of Onrrnlicii liarbonr. He Bays " it ll itnpotiible to Riiohor there, A BuiiktMi rock, on wbieh tlie boa lirrnki in roiiKli weather, liei off the haibour about U oablee from the ihorti." Probably thia ii cue of the reufi off poiut Igloila. w m up?-- ."!■■■* TRES MARIETAS, &c. 109 vessels anchor dating faTonrable weather close to the beach. Excellent fresh water can be obtained from the river. From Penas the coast trends 4 miles northward and north-westward to the Boca de Tomates, the outlet of a lake which receives the river Valle or Piginto ; and, then, north-westward 7 miles to point Piodra Blauca, under which vessels occasionally anchor in 4 to 10 fathoms daring north-westerly winds. From this anchorage to point Mita the distance is about 8 miles. Veint auta. — Point Mita, a low, narrow, prcgecting point, is dangerous in con- sequence of the numerous outlying rocks and reefs in its proximity, one of which (under water) lies half a mile southward from it, and occasionally shows its presence by breakers. About a mile inland from the point is a prominent hill, 590 feet high. Vessels frequently anchor in about 7 fathoms on the south-east side of the point, at about 1^ miles from its extremity, and obtain shelter from noiih-westerly winds ; it is considered to be an excellent anchorage. ir«» BKarietas. — About three miles S. by W. i W. from point Mita, and ' separated from it by a clear navigable channel 8 to 24 fathoms deep, through which vessels may safely pass by keeping nearer the islands than the const, are the two largest Marieta islands, neither of which is so much as half a mile in extent. The eastern of these is 179 feet high; the western 182 feet. The third islet, a white rock 40 feet high, is distant 7 miles S.W. by S. from the point. A small rock, only 16 feet high, lies half a mile westward of the last-mentioned islet. In the channel between the second Marieta islet and the third islet, the outermost, there is a very dangerous rock, only one foot above the surface at high water, which must be specially guarded against. It lies in nearly midway, being rather nearer the second islet than the third. oorv«nt«aa Book. — The Corventena, believed to be the outermost of the rocks to seaward of Banderas bay, is distant 17 miles W. by S. i S. from point Mita, and 21 miles N.N.W. } W, from cape Corrientes; it is 8 cables in extent, east and west, of whitish appearance and only 25 feet high. Its geographical position is lat. 20° 44' 10", long. 105° 47' 80". From its western side a reef extends a short distance.* Th« COAST. — From point Mitathe const trends N.N.E. i^E.22 miles to point Raza, and is bold, with occasional sand beaches. Off it at a moderate distance is a depth of 9 to 22 fathoms, the latter hoing about a mile from the land. Between points Mita and Raza, and 9 miles distant fvoni the latter, is Monterey point, off which is a sunken rock. The coast range of hills, rising 800 to 1000 feet, borders on the sea throughout • Much to our atirpriso, in tho aflornoon wo npproncliod a small blaok (? white) rug^jud .ook, or, more properly Bppakiii);, a closely connected clustsr of hninll rocks. The space they occupy does not npponr to exceed the dhn('n< of Cbncola, in whirh small TCP lols occasionally anchor; a c ales N. by \V. from this is point Custodios< where a river falls into the sea. From point Gustodios the coast trends N.N.E. 7 miles, and for the greater part consists of bold cli£fs 75 to 100 feet high ; it then sweeps round in a curve to the N.W. by W. i W. to point Gamaron, the eastern point of the Estero San Christoval. The bay thus formed is known as that of San Bias. It is an open bay, exposed throughout its whole extent to westerly and south-westerly winds, and we believe con- tains no safe anchorage. The mountains immediately behind it rise to the height of 1000 and 1500 feet, and 10 miles in the interior, in the direction of N.E. by E. ^ E. from point Gustodios, is the saddle mountain of San Juan, which is 7550 feet high. When viewed on the bearing of E. by S. the two peaks of this mountain are strikingly oonspicnous. Port San Bias is within the entrance of the Estero de Arsenal. BAIT BLAB. — ^The town of San Bias is on the summit of a rather steep hill about 450 feet in height ; it is now of little commercial importance, the increasing trade of the neighbouring port of Mazatlan having caused the principal merchants to remove thither.')' Eastward and westward of the town is a stream ; that westward of it, known as the Estero del Arsenal, is fronted by a bar of 7 to 8 feet waterf, immediately within which is a depth of 12 to 18 feet and it is here that small vessels occasionally anchor; — that eastward of it, the San Christoval, is almost dry at low water. The west point of the Estero del Arsenal has a reef extending from it along the coast in a north-westerly direction nearly three-quarters of a mile, parts of which are above water. As the depth close to this reef is 12 to 18 feet, rapidly deepening seaward to 4^ fathoms, care is necessary to avoid it when approaching the port from north-westward. Piedras Islets. — At nearly a mile S.VV. from the port of San Bias is a rock or islet 55 feet high, known as the Piedra Blancade Tierra, near to which are two smaller rooks, the whole lying in a N.E. and S.W. direction and surrounded by shoal water, immediately outside which is a depth of 5 fathoms. And, about 11 miles W. } N. from the Piedra Blanca do Tierra ia the Piedra Blanca del Mar, a small white rock 145 feet high and 420 feet long, in the immediate vicinity of which is a depth of 9 to 12 fathoms. These rooky islets are excellent marks for the port of San Bias. The last mentioned * In 1805 the town of Ban Bins was in rttins nnd the popniatinn hnd almoBt diisppoared. t Tbo depth on the bar at the entrance to tlie Gstcro del Aracnat at low water is 13 feet, and 10 or 17 feet at high water. VeiRrls mnst mnnr Iicnd and stern in tlie Eflt)>rn, tlie ohannnl baing very narrow ; ooce inaide, ihipi are iheltered frmn every wind. Commander Ueorye Dewey, U.S. Navy, 1874. ■Mi SAN BLAS, 111 islet is in lat. 21" 84' 45", long. 105° 27'; from it monut San Juan is distant 80 miles in the direction of £. i S., and the month of the river Santiago 5 miles E. by N. i N. Directiong. — In making the port of San Bla-i tbo saddle-peaked mountain of San Juan (7550 feet high), 18 miles E. by S. from the town, is an excellent mark. It should also be borne in mind that the land to the southward of the port is high, while to the northward it is low. Vessels spproaching San Bias from southward should keep westward of Corventena rock, although the wide channel between it and the Marietas may probably be safely traversed, as it is believed to be free from sunken dangers beyond what are represented on the .hart. Approaching from north-uestward, they should pass the Piedra Blanca del Mar on the south aide, and steer thence for the Piedra Blanca do Tierra, pass it also on its south side, and thence steer for the anchorage, where a birth may be selected at convenience. The reason for the recommendation to go southward of the islets is that a shoal extends about 8 miles from the coast in the vicinity of the Santiago river, on parts of which is a depth of less than 8 fathoms. Anchorage. — The usual anchorage at San Bias is in 4^ fathoms, sand, at nearly half a m'^e eastward of the Piedra de Tierra, or farther out in 6^ fathoms at about the same distance south-eastward from that rock. If the former anchorage be preferred, a good spot is at half a mile S. ^ W. from the low rocky point of the harbour, with the two Piedras in one. The roadstead is very much exposed to winds from S.S.W. to N.N.W., hence ships should always be prepared for sea, unless it be in the months in which northerly winds are settled. In the event of the wind veering to westward, and a gale from that quarter being apprehended, no time should be lost in slipping and endeavour- ing to get an offing, as a vessel at anchor is deeply embayed, and the holding-ground is very bad. In case of necessity, a vessel may cast to westward, and stand between Piedra de Tierra and the Fort bluff, in order to make a tack westward of the rock ; after which, it will not be necessary again to get northward of a line connecting the two Piedras. The anchorage should not bo frequented between the months of May and December, because, during that period, the coast is visited by storms from southward and west- ward, attended by heavy rains, and thunder and lightning. It is, besides, the sickly season, and the inhabitants having all migrated to Topic, no business whatever is transacted at the port. Supplies of fresh beef, vegetables, wood, and water may sometimes be obtained here. The latter, of excellent quality, is found in the Eusenada Matenoheu, 2i miles eastward of San Bias. (1874). I'idea. — It is high water at San Bias on the days of full an J change of the moon at Oh. 45m. Spring tides rise about 0^ feet. The following notes, made on a passage to San Bias, are by Lieut. Sherard Osbom, R.N., 1846 r— " Supposing a vessel, bound to the western coa^t of Mexico, safely round Cape Horn, and rounding before the southerly gale which almoijt constantly blows along the shores of South America, she ought to shape a course so as to cross the Equator in about 08" or 00° W. long., so that when she gets the Nurth-eaat Trade she will bo at least i: ■fi: . !i 112 SAN BLAS. G° or 7° eastward of her port, — San Bias or Mazatlan ; and have at the same time a saiScient offing from the Galapagos islands to avoid their currents and variable winds. We crossed in 105° long., having been recommended to do so by some old merchants at Valparaiso, and were consequently, although a remarkably fast-sailiug ship, a lamentably long time making the distance. Our track led us to be exactly in the same longitude as our port, when we got the 2'rade, and it hanging well to the northward, we were consequently increasing our distance, nntil in the latitude of San Bias, when an in shore tack, of course, shortened it. iBnt, by the course I have recommended, the ^rs^ of the North-east Trade will drive the vessel into the meridian of her port, and she will thus daily increase her distance. Care mutit be taken when standing in for the land not to go to leaward of San Bias, as there is a strong southerly cnn'ent along the coast, especially off cape Corrientes.=^< If pcssible keep San Bias on an E.N. E. bearing. The Marias islands, off the port of San Bias, are convenient points for making ; and here a master could leave his vessel in perfect safety to water, while he communicated with his consignees, or got his over- land letters from his owners at home. There is a safe mid-channel course between tho middle and sonthem islands ; — we brought a saddle-shaped hill on the main a little south of San Bias, one point open of the south island, and steered by compass N.E. by E. The two Piedras are excellent t^irks for the roadstead, which, by Beechey, is in lat. 21° 82' 20", long. 105° 15' 15". A good anchorage for vessels awaiting orders (for which purpose San Bias is now almost alone visited, except by English men-of-war, and Yankee clippers), will be found with Piedra del Mar, N. 70'' W. ; Piedra de Tierra, N. 43° W. ; and the village in the Kstero, N. 26° W. Since the days of Hall and Beechey, the town of San Bias has vei^ much changed. Its population of 20,000 has dwindled to 8000 residents, and their unwholesome appearance fhlly accounts for the decrease of residents ; and nearly all its trade has been transferred to its rival — Mazatlan. The large town of Tepic, in the interior, with a small factory, owned by an English merchant, causes a small demand for European luxuries, and a cargo or two of cotton ; which petty trade is carried on during six healthy months in the year. A great deal of smuggling is carried on from the neighbourhood of this port, the extensive bay, to the southward affording great facilities to tho men-of-war's boats in that employment. The town is built on the landward slope of a steep hill, which is almost perpendicular to seaward, and has its crest crowned by the ruins of a custom-house ; but as this is about three-quarters of a mile from the beach a large assemblage of huts has been formed at the landing-place, in the Estero del Arsenal, for the convenience of supply- ing tho shipping ; the occupants being, for the most part, grog-venders, fishermeDi and an agent to the harbour master. • In reference to tbe cnrreuU In the nciglibourhood of CKpe Corrientes, Commander W. H. Parke^. r.M.S.B. Co. (1871) says : -" I must cnuUon you against one of tlie moat marked curranti on the ooaat ; tho enrrent runnhig from cape Oraham (tho east point of Novidad bay) along tlie coaat, towards cape Corrient«8, generally about N.W., but aometimeB Retting North, with conaiderable velocity into Navidad, Tenacatita and Pernia bays." This statement would lead one to eipeot a northerly onrrent in tlie vicinity of cape Corrientei. BAN BLAS. 118 In the Estero del Arseiial, siflall craft, of less than 10 feet drattght, will find con- venient anchorage, means of heaving down, &c. The watering-place is, at least, 8 miles from the above anchonigo ; and to assist the boats in this heavy work, it ia always advisable to shift the vessel into such a position that they may make a fair wind off and on whilst the daily sea-breeze blows. The watering-place is at the northern extremity of a large open bay, south of San Bias ; the beach is shoal, and the casks have to be rolled 800 or 400 yards through the jangle to a stream of water. This stream, during the spring tides, is occasionally brackish ; but we succeeded in obtaining supplies, by immersing the empty cask with the bung in such a position that only the fresh water (which, of COursCj]^ Would be on the surface) could enter. i By rigging triangles with spars in such a position that the boats could go under them to load, we snccceded in embarking daily B2 tons of water. Many Useful and ornamental woods are to be procured on shore, for the mere trouble of cutting, especially lignum vitas. Fresh beef we found good in quality. Game moderately plentiful; oysters good and plentiful; vegetables scarce and «xpen8ive4 The climate may be summed up by the word 'execrable.' On November Ist, the dry season cou^mences; the tempetattire rises steadily, and the land yields all its moisture, until, by the month of May, the heat of the atmosphere resembles that of an oven, and the air swarms with musquitoes and sandflies. _ ^The sky is cloudless, the laud and sea-breeze regular, but not refreshing. Eftvly in June, heavy banks of dark lowering clouds, charged with electricity, collect on the high lauds in the interior, lowering masses of clouds hang to seaward. The change is fast approaching, and before the 16th of June the rains commence and deluge the land, iiccompanied by heavy squalls and a tumbling swell from seaward. All vessels now have the coast unless able to take shelter in the estero j though of late, inen-of-war, in eager search for freight, have held on, and found that the gales do not, iu the winter, 'blow home.' At this season all the inhabitants, whose means iitTord it, quit the coast for the interior. For tli(! first inoutli, or six wooUs, the parched land absorbs the rain'; but, by the niiiltllo of August, it becomes moist and swampy ; — the haunts of alligators and aquatic birds. In September the action of the sun on water soddened land generates fever of the most violent nature, and it behoves these who arrive early in the dry season to bo cn'efil of exposure to the malaria." The following notes on San Bias are from the work of M. Duflot de Mofras, 1844 : — The roadHtead of San Bias is open and exposed. The anchorpge is safe in the dry season and less dangerous during the rainy months than that of MaJiatlan. The extent and configuration of tlie roadstead renders an appionch to it easy, and when leaving it the prevailing current often aftbrda coiisidoiable assistance. It is recommended to avoid remaining in it during the scoson of the cimloiiazos. The harbour has the great advantage of being a little bay, called pI }>n:.o, which is closed in and sheltered from the sea by a natural jetty of rocks. In this harliour there is considerable nccommoda* tiuu for careening ; it is however to be rrgrctled that there is not room for more than five or six vessels, which should not be of n greater draught than 10 feet or they will lie Duablc to cross the bar. I i \'i\ r; I :' 1 114 SAN BLAS. It is very easy to make San Bias, so many landmarks serve as gaides. After having doubled the Marias islands, which are about 60 miles to seaward of the port, a course may be steered for the land, and mount San Juan will be seen to the eastward. This mountain is about 7550 feet high and situated in about lat. 21° 20' ; behind it is the town of Tepic. When steering for the mountain, the Piedra del Mar or Afuera cannot fail to be recognised as it is an enormous white rock about 150 feet high, and soon after passing it at a short distance on its south side, another white rock will come into view, named Piedra de Tierra or Adentro; this latter is the smaller rock, and exactly marks the anchorage. It is eastward of the Piedra de Tierria where the anchor should be cast, in about 8^ (?) fathoms. The anchorage may be run for either during day or night. The two Piedras are nearly East and West from each other, distant about 11 miles. All the coast of the bay is quite clear from reefs and the soUndings are regular. While under sail it is necessary to take notice of the direction of the current, which runs southward, some- times with considerable strength. San Bias is very unhealthy, especially during the rainy season when malignant fevers prevail. There are clouds of mosquitoes and gnats whose stings often cause painful eruptions, ophthalmic complaints, and serious inflamatory disorders ' — hence shipmasters should not permit the sailors to sleep on deck, on shore, or in any place where they will be exposed to these disagreeable pests. Merchandise discharged at San Bias supplies the district of Colima. Some goods are sent to Mazatlan, Durango, San Luis Potosi, and to Zacatccas. The vessels usually retui'n in ballast, but occasionally go either to Mazathin or Banderas bay for brazil-wtfod. If they arrive at San Bias in July, August or September, or even later in the year, the cargoes are more easily disposed of than in the earlier mouths, as they are then forwarded to the fair of San Juan de los Lagos and are privileged with a dis- count of 58 per cent upon the charges of entry. San Juan de los Lagos is situated upon the road from Mexico to Guadalajara, at 40 Icfrgues from the latter city; it is a small place, but its fair is very important, as it coutimies 8 days and roeeives goods not only from Mexican territory but also from Guatemala. Seasons, Winds, dc. — The J'eor is divided into the dry and rainy seasons, the changes into which take place generally and at variaMo periods. During the dry season the weather is constantly fine. The winds prevail regularly during the day from N.W. to West, following the direction of the coast and are replaced at night by a light breeze from the land or by a calm. Tito rainy season, which commences in June, is at ftvai indicated by calms and slight showers; as the season advances the sbowurs become heavier and more frequent, and instead of prevailing only at night they commence in the afternoon and terminate in very violent tempests accompanied by thunder and lightning and violent winds from all quarters of the horizon. This went 'er continues till the end of September and it fre- quently occurs that the season is terminated by a violent hurricane, vivh usually takes place from the Ist to the 6th of October, the period of the fete of 8:»:ut Francis. These xtorins, which always prevail from S.E. to S.W., are of short duration; but their violeuoo is bo great, and the sea which accompanies thou e > high, that nothing eau Makia Islands. lis Insist their innuen'ce ; — whence they are known in the country by the term cordonazos di San Francisco de Asis.-^ When overtaken in the roadstead by one of these storms the anchor should be immediately raisedj or the cables cut, and the vessel run ashore (sic)* At the approach of the cordonazo the offing should be run for^ or if obliged to anchor in the roadstead it should be at such a distance from the land that it will be easy to get away on the first intimations of its commencement. These observations are not applicable to roadsteads entirely open, fur such should be avoided during the months of September and October. Occasionally the cordonazo, contrary to the experience of seanlen, occurs later than St; Francis' day; for instauccj on November 1st, 1889, twelve vessels supposing the season to have passed, were surprised in the port of Mazatlan and were almost entirely destroyed. On November 1st, 1840, three vessels, under a similar error, were lost in the roadstead of San Bias, and several people were drowned^ without it being possible to render them any assistance^ Although this coast is within the region of the N.E. trade, yet such is its configuration that a S.W. wind occupies its place in the Gulf of California ; it is not however felt on. the coast northward of lat. 28°." z«ab*i xsiantf. — This barren islet is situated in lat; 21° 52' 80", long. 105° 50', or about 40 miles W.N.W. from San Bias. It is nearly 2 miles in length, N.W. by N4 and S.E. by S., 280 feet high, and about half a mile wide. There are several detached rocks near it, the most conspicuous of which are two pinnacle rocks, nearly white, near its uorth-eastei'n side. On the eastern and south'eastern sides of the islet are sand* beaches, where boats may laud in good weather; The soundings in its immediate vicinity are 15 and 21 fathoms and it is believed to be clear of sunken dangers beyond the distance of a quarter of a mile from the rocksi'^' BZARiA isXfANDB. — These islands lie about 70 miles to the westward of port Sad Bias, between latitudes 21" 10' and 21° 40', and are three in number, — but really four, if San Juauito, a large low rock of table form, situated about 4 miles northward of thei northern island, i.*) included. They are known to the coasters as the tres MariaSt Among nnd around thiun are many small rocks, whose heads are just above the water. Maria Madr*, the northernmost of the large islands, is 11 miles long, and 8 to 6 miles broad. It lies in a S.E. and N.W. direction, — which is also nearly the line in Vrhich the islands lie from each other. Its height is sufficiently great to render it visible at the distance of nearly 18 leagues. Its highest part, near the middle, is estimated to be 1094 feet, whence there is a gradual descent to the north-west ex- tremity, a low projecting point. Off this end of the island a dangerous reef extends ■early a mile toward San Juanito ishind. Its south-eastern extremity also tormiuates in a low projecting point, with some rock.s lying off it. There is tolerable anchorage off the south-eastern part of tliis island, and a bench to the eastward of the south point, where boats may land in good weather. : 1 i m -hi • Cordonazo — Spanish — Siroko with a cord or ropo. t Tsftbol island is of moderate hoiplit, iicarlv Imrrrn, nnd its herbage and grasses ran Boarcoly bii ifistinguiHlied. Neitlier wood nor water rtro to lie obtiiined from it. The bcacli is lined witli rocltSj Willi tlio esoeption of a small H»ndy cove open to westward, wliere boats may bo hauled up on th« atiora. The inland is only frccpiented by sealei.i. Ihi Petit Thouars, tomo 11< iH ■J 'ht 118 MARIA ISLANDS. ' San JuanitOf tlio northcrumost and smallest of the group, lies 2 railes north-west- ward of Maria Madre island; it is 2^ mibs long, N. by W. and S. by E., aud 150 feet high. A reef extends oflf its south-eastern aide nearly a mile toward Maria Madie, rendering the channel between them very dangerous. A white rock, 150 feet high, lies a mile off its western side. Between this island and Magdalena island, the next to the southward, is a passage about 6 luiles wide, with soundings of from 12 to 22 fathoms, sandy bottom, which is believed to be free from sunken dangers. MagdaUna island is about 8 miles long, east and west, and 2 to 4 miles wide; on its southern side are several detached rocks. The shores, in general, but more «o on its northern and eastern sides, descend gradually from the centre of the island (whose summit is 1C90 feet in height), and terminate at the water-side in a fine sandy beach. This island is more verdant than the other, as its vegetable productions exten J from the more elevated parts to the sea, and grow with some luxuriance, although it'i soil is principally of a sandy nature. The chief valuable production is lignum vitte; besides wliich there is an almost impenetrable thicket of small trees and bushes of a thorny nature, together with the prickly pear, and some plants of the orange and lemon tribe; the whole growing as close to the water-side as the wash of the surf permits. A variety of fish, common to the tropical regions, abound about the shores. cieopba, the south-easternmost island, is nearly circular and only about 8 miles in diameter. Its highest peak has an altitude of 1820 feet* A pinnacle rock, 100 feet high, lies about three-quarters of a mile oH" the south-east point, and a white rock, 225 feet high, half a mile off its western side. When navigating around these islands, some detached rocks are visible about their shores, but all are sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided ; and there is reason to believe, from the regularity of the soundings, that secure anchorage may be obtained against the prevailing winds, at a convenient distance from them. These islands are of volcanic origin. The western sides of all of them consist of high inaccessible cliffs, perfectly barren, while the eastern sides are geuernlly low and sandy, with plenty of vegetation. Of these islands, Captain Boechey R.N., says : — "The Tres Marias, situated 1° 15' west of San Bias, consist of three large islands, steep and rocky to the westward, and sloping to the eastward, with long sandy spits. Off the S.E. extremity of MiigJulena island (the centre of the group), we found the soundings decreased rapidly from 75 fathoms to 17; and that after that depth thoy were more regular. At 2 miles from the shore we found 10 and 12 fathoms, bad holding-ground. There is nothing to make it desirable for a vessel to anchor at these islands. Upon Magdalena there is said to be water of a bad description ; aud the landing is in general very hazardous. There are passages between each of the islands. The northern channel requires no particular directions; that to the soutlnvard of Magdalena is the widest and best; but pare must be taken to avoid a reef lying one-third of a mile from its S.W. point, and a shoal extending 1^ miles from its south-eastern extremity. I did not stand close to Cleopha island, but cocld perceive that there were breakers extending fully three- f MARIA ISLANDS. Ill quarters of a mile from its S.E. extremity; and I was informed at San Bias, that some reefs also extend 2 to 4 miles from its south-western point. There is an islet off the north-west part of this island, apparently bold on all sides ; but I cannot say how closely it may be approached." The COAST. — From San Bias the coast trends about N.W. ^ N., 120 miles to Mazatlan, and is for the most part low, and covered with trees. It is believed to be clear of sunken dangers beyond a moderate distance from the beach. In the vicinity of Mazatlan the sea is said to be deeper at a corresponding distance from shore than it is near San Bias. SanUago Bivor, 8 miles W. by N. f N. from the entran. e to San Bias harbour, has off its mouth a dangerous shoal which extfiuds nearly 3 miles toward Piedra Blanca del Mar, leaving a safe passage by keeping near the rock. Asadero Extero.- -Four miles northward of Santiago river is the entrance to the Asadero estero. Here vessels come for cedar, dye-wood, &c., and anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms half a mile from the beach. camichin Estero, about 8 miles farther northward, is also resorted to by vessels for cedar, dye-wood, &e. The anchorage is in 5 or 6 fiithoms water hall a mile from the shore. Boca Tecapan. — From the entrance of the Camichin estero the coast trends in a N.N.W.-Iy direction 45 miles to the Boca Tecapan, the barred mouth of an extensive lagoon, into the northern part of which the river Bayona flows. The auchorage is about 2 miles off the entrance to the estero, in 6 or 7 fathoms- The approximate geographical position of the boca is lat. 22° 30', long. 105° 41'. There are two channels leading into the estero, with 2 fathoms in the northern and 2i fathoms in the southern, at /ii;/h water. The sea breaks over the bar even in moderate weather. The best time to enter is in the early morning before the sea- breeze springs up. There is a small Indian village near the entrance, where tolerably good fresh-water may be obtained, Chamatia River. — This river is distant 24 miles N.W. ^ \V. from Boca Tecapan; in the dry season it is navigable only by small boats or canoes. Its west point of entrance, according to Lieut. E. Belcher, R.N., is in lat. 22° 47' 80", long. 105° 58'. Near the mouth of the river arc llio Charaatla hills, 500 to 800 feet high. A lew miles up the rivor are the small towns of Chamntia and Rosario. The anchorage is in G or 7 fathoms, a niilo off the eutranco. Tho depth on the bar is, wo bulieve, usually about 4 feet at low water. About 18 or 20 miles from tho coast is a mountain range from 2000 to 3G00 feet high and behind it another still higher. From the entrance to Cliamulta river the coast trends N.W. ^ W. 34 miles to Maza' Ian. All this coast is low and saiuly. and cut red with bushes. There are no know outlying daugeiB, the water dcipjuiiig gradually from the shore to 10 or 12 fathoni - 2 miles distant. Midway between Mazatlan and Chamatla river, and 9 or 10 mil- from tho coast, is a remarkable sierra, from 1200 to 1760 feet high, known as Lt. Cabeza de Caballo. -■■ i r. t'l 1 1 1X8 MAZATLAN. Jti'wn, 10 miles southward of Mazatlan, like the Chainatla, iu the dry seasoii is only n);vigable by small boats. The moath of this river is in lat. 28° 6', long, 106° ^5'. ^ ¥'hen beating up the coast between San Bias and Mazatlan, the lead shonld bo fre([uently hove, as the soundings are an excellent guide and give a good indication of the jiear vicinity of the land. Some of the low hills npon the shore, 27 miles fronj Mazatlan, are shaped like cones. The current has a southerly set, at the rote of IB to 20 milos per day, but its direction and velocity are much affected by the prevailing wind. WAZis Til AN. — The river Mazatlan is about half a mile wide at the entrance where the harbour is, and so very shallow that it can be entered only by small ve«sels at high tide. The sands are nearly all dry at low water, at which time the depth over the ba» is only about 6 feet, and in the channel within 9 to 12 feet.* This port is easy of recognition, in consequence of the many islands with lofty conical peaks in its vicinity, there being no other port on this part of the coast which is fronted by a group of islands. In 1827 the harbour of Maaatlan was surveyed by Captain Beechey, U.N., since '^(hich time it is believed that considerable changes have taken place in the depth of water, hence a piict's assistance is indispensable to vessels entering the port. Large vessels anchor outside, iu 4 to 6 fiithoms water, to the southward of Creston island, hereafter described. This anchorage is sheltered from N.W. winds, but the bottom is said to be hard and not gQod holding. Mazatlan has of late years supplanted the harbour of San Bias in its commercial importance. The town stands on the west bank of the river, about a mile within thQ entrance. During the busy season it has a population of 14,000 to 15,000, but less at other times of the year. To the southward of the town is a pier extending off the custom-house. Between the pier and the fort there are several dangerous sunken rocks, hence it is necessary to give the shore a good brrtb here, and ipake for the head of the per. A si;,-""! station is established on the hiil (200 feet high) behind the fort, Lighters are employed for loading and unloading, the charge for which is 20 to 60 dollars. Custom-house dues &c., are high. The wants of a ship can be supplied but the prices are exoessiye ; and only rain water is obtainable. The balhitjt consists of sand ond shingle. The principal exports are silver and other minerals. A large quantity of the former is sent to San Francisco, coined and in bar. There is a hospital at the town, which is of great utility during the rainy season, as seveie fevers are then common. Creston Maud is small but lofty r.nd of roundish form ; its seaward side rs perperir dicular, giving it the appearance of a white cliff. Near its southern extremity it liscg to a conical peak, 484 feet in height. Bluff point, its southern extreme, is, according to Captain Beechey, K.N., in lat. 23° 11' 40", long. 10G° 2B'. In the rocky channel • BhipmnBtcrs bound to the port should bp provided with the Ailitiiralty chart by Captain Bcpchey, R.N., (l^o. 1876j, uud to this chart we must refer our readers, as a written description wilj not convey so good an idea of thp port as an inspection of the chart. T Taa pagt JIB. ■hiiinttSilUP^apm. Vf. ct \Ci£rvo I dtarsBlossanWf 06'25'6;BW. MAZATLAN Halt' !«au.tic Mile o 1 2 s 4 b Cables Soundings in Tathoms. LONDON . Junu Imiiv & Son. wi m s !l! MAZATLAN. im between this island and the mainland to the northward is Azada island, with reeks adjacent. Blacic Rock, 7 feet high, lies aboEt three-quarters of a mile S.E. fro;n the summit of Creston island, and about the same distance S. | W. from Ciervo island. The latter, 2.'>0 feet high, is situat-d on the east side of the harbour's cutrauce, and has shoal water, over which the surf breaks heavily, between it and the mainland. About half a mile eastward cf Ciervo is Gama island, 162 feet high, having numerous rocky islets and shoals in its vicinity. Blossow Uocic, distant about a quarter of a mile S.W. by S. from the higliest point of Ciervo island, has only 10 feet water over it. It is (or was) guarded on its north side by a ilag-b'^ )y. At two-thirds of ii mile north-west of Creston ishxnd, are two rocky islets known as the North and Sanlh Hermanos, lying N.E. and b.W. of each other and a quarter of a mile apart. The latter has several rocks about it and at a quarter of a mile W.N.W. from it is the Tortugas rock, about 5 feet above water. The soundings between these islets and Creston island are and 7 fathoms, Pajaros and Venado islands, 800 and 510 feet in height respectively, are situated about 4 to 5 miles N.W. of Creston island. Venado is of irregular shape, and distant about two-thirdh of a mile from the shore, to which it is joined by a flat of 2 J fathoms. It is not so lofty as Creston, but 1ms a very similar appearance, and both islands can be seen from pjaward a considerable time before the laud behind the town of Mazatlan comes into view, hence they are good marks when approaching the port directly from southward. Pajaros island lies about a mile N.N.W. from Venado, and is also con- nected to the shoro by a flat of 2j fathoms or less. All the coast within these islands is low and satuly. The low beach commenGca at the blull' point of Mazatlan river and extends some miles north-w« oL>vard from the islands. Uctwccn these islands and the main is a roadstead where v jssels occasionally anchor. This anchorage is considered preferable during the rainy ieason to that southwar'' of Creston island, as, unlike the latter, it is sheltered from southward and Houth-wept\uird. Winds. — During the summer or rainy season, • , .'lich genorally lusts from the middle of Juno to the end of October, the prevalent winds are from the South and S.W. ; they frequently blow with great violence, rendering the anchorage otV Creston island highly dangerous. During the winter or dry season N.W. winds are the most common and it is at lliis season that vessels are able to visit port Mazatlan with safety. The direction and strength of tlio current greaily depends on the wind. During the stay ol'tlie sloaincr \' (xom the pnncity of supplies, both finimal and vegetable ; and from water being both bad ' nee. Mazatlan is now the outlet for the products of the vaiuublc mining district of San Bebastiau, and imports directly and indirectly large cargoes of Knglish go^iiia. The general healthiness of the climate, as compared with its more ancient inij.'' imr San Bias, has materially tended to an increase of its population. The town, from being built on the crests of some heights, clear of mangrove and swauij , had an air of .cleanliness and pure ventilation rare in this part of America. Vessels must invariably moor in the roadstead, open hawse to the W.S.W. but too /olose a berth to Creston island is not advisable^, as tlio sijualls sweep over di great etrongth. The ('(illiiu/ivodj drove, though slio hail »")() faliionis on each raole. Watering is attended with great risk at all tinios at this place, especially at full and iclmnge, the boats having to cross the heavy surf of tli(^ bar, formed between a long spit which runs down the centre of the river, and a b ink Joining it from the south shore, fievenil boats and li\.<8 are annually lost here. Wiien puiiing in care should bo taken to cross the surf pretty close to the middle ground ; ami when through the first rollers, to pull over to the south shore, and keep it on board up to the watering place. In /coming out, no casks ought ti. bo allowed in the head sheets, everything depending upon the buoyancy of the bout ; inattention to this point, caused the loss of two lives, to my own knowledge. The water is protiured from a number of wells dug by seamen, on alow alluvial island, formed on a quick sand in the bod of the river ; none of thorn are consequently mort) than 10 feet deep. The water is 1^ no moans sweet, but merely sea water, whicljL nndergoei a partial purification in filtering through the soil. ii i2d MAZATLAN. Supplies of all sort come from Oie neighbourhood of San Bias ; and as the bullocks are driven that long d'" mce, and as on arrival they are instantly killed, from the want of grass, the beef is necessarily lean and bad. Pork, fish, and oysters are however plentiful ; vegetables are scarce. The river abounds in turtle of excellent quality ; wood of various descriptions, principally hard, was plentiful, and at a short distance oak and cedni might be obtained. Old Mazatlan, which lies about 20 miles up the riv«r, was well known to ancient navigators, as far back as 1587. " Master Thomas Gavaudish in the talle shippe Desire, 120 tons, refreshed his gallant company before cruising off cape Lucas, for a Spanish galleon ; and Don Sabastian Vizcaino, in an expedition to convert the Californians to the Catholic faith, recruited his squadron iu the Bahia de Mazatlan." The following remarks on the anchorage at Mazatlan are by Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.S.S. Co., 1871 : — A good berth is iu 8 or 9 fathoms water, with South bluff, Greston island, hearing W. by S. i S., Black rock S.S,E., and tiie town of Mazatlan N. by W. i W. To pick up t.Ms anchorage from the westward, pass Creston island at the distance of half a cable, and steer E.N.E. Giervo isknd will then be a little open on the port bow ; and when Black rock is abeam (S..S.E.) and the town of Mazatlan two-thirds of a point forward on the port beam (N. by W. J W.), drop amshor^ Thie town will come into view only a short time before it is time to anchor. To pick up this anchorage from the douthw^rd, pass west of Black rock distant one cable, and steer N. *} W. The town will then be in view, a little on the port bow. Stand on until Greston island (South bluff) is half a point abaft the port beam (W. by B. i S.) and ike town of Mazatlan about half a point on the port bow (N. by W. ^ W.), when anchor. In both cases, be sure to keep Monte Siila well open westward of Ciervo island, so as jto keep clear of Blossom fock. The above, I think, will be found a good anchorage during the greater part of the year, and with the marks I have given can be taken up witb great facility. ■Should you wish to anchor nearer the town, steer about N, ^ E. from the position above given ; but the lead must be kept going, and he sure not to open Azada island with Pala point. The objection to going too close iu, is the dilBculty of getting under weigh in a large ship, as there is but scant room fm- manoeuvering. During tlio bad season, September and October, you may wish to auiUor further out ; but you will be governed by the weather and tlio length of your stu- It is not popsiblo to mistake the port. Creston i« a small but very high island, running to a sharp point— a very remiukablo coue. Ciervo umi tiaijua iulauds uro very small, iu fact, huge, conical white rocks. The current between Isabel igland and Mazatlan is probably geuorally to the southward. Off Mazatlan, the soundings are vtiry bold. I have sounded with (iO fiitlionis line — po bottom — 15 miles offHliorc, Should you arrive off the port at i»ight you will see the lights of tbt town to the ^ttorthwftfd of C>'eHto» isjaud," m !■ i- ':i GULF OF CALIFORNIA, fS/agnetk Variation in 1879 ; — At the entrance of the Gulf about 0° 50' E, ; Guaymas Harbour 11° 80' E,; mouth of Colorado Biver 13° E. I Ballenas or Whale Channel 12° E. ; La Paz Bay 10° 20' E,, The annual increase is estimated to be 2 to 8 nunutes, emitmAX, nuta^LKKfi. — Tl\e entrAnce to the (>ulf of Ctjilifornia may be consider^^ ^0 be betijreeii Ma^atlan on tbe east, and cape Sau Lucas (at the south extremity of thd palifornia Peninsula) 09 the west. It was designated bv the Qrst Spanish navigators Jhe Red or Vermillion ^ea (ikf«r Ifvyo, Mar Vennejo), on account of the colour of its water, and its resen^blance to the Red sea. The learned Jesuit Qissionaries, who traversed it froi^ epd to en^i called it Seno Mar Lauretaneo, which me^ns gulf p^ sea of I^oreto.* The length of the gulf i^ about 700 miles ; its greatjcst breadth is 180 miles at its entrance ; but tbroughout its extent the distance from one side to the other varies froiQ 60 to 120 miles. Beyond the thirty-first parallel, its breadth rapidly diiQinishes to the Rio Colorado, >yhich falls iuto it at its head. '|'he con^gurt^tion of tb^ Adi'iAtlc give^ fi very good idea of th^t of the Qulf of California, It has been often remarked, that a singular phenomenon occurs here, which science does not explain, and of which we possess but fevy examples ; — it is that of rain falling >vhen the atmospbere is (][uite clear, and the sky perfectly serene. Humboldt and Capt. Beechey have ^elated the fact ; the ^rst having testified as tp it^ occurring inland, jthe second }n the open sea, The two coast? of the Gulf of California run almost parallel with each other toward jbhe N.W. ; they p.re fpr the most part low and full of salt marshes, tenanted by alligar tors, reptiles, and iusoct^. The general aspect of the country is said to be naked and desolate. There is an entire want of water and vegetation ; only piangroves, and some J,horny plants, such as tlje cactus, maguoya (aloes), or acacias, beiug visible, Orango trees or palms are rarely mot with, and one must proceed some Ici^gnos into the country to find vegetable moi)ld. Tlio sho^'e is formed by sand and lauds (|uite unfit for cultiva|>ion. In addition to a great nijmber offish, of various species, two kii^ds of immeuso shark are found in tjie gulf, wbich often seize the pearl jfishors. Whiijes are also met with in contsiderublo uuii)bers, i^ud on the islauds are numer nis seals and sea-calves, the fur^ pf which are very tliick, The poar| fisjiiory is, or nitber wi)s, carried on |n the gulf. 1 ! I' n I ,' i r Tlierfi nro apparoiitly only two rcasonB wliy the gulf of California was called tlie Vermillion Sea | tlioHo nro indliably — l8t, tlio colour iiiiiMirlcd to tlip watejf during tlio rainy Kf asoii 'ty tlio rjvorH ilmining a IVrruninoiiB country, the river Colorado CBpccijilly, and— iiiuily, llic bcantiful purple colour wliicli the wavL'B take at punset and sunrise. In the day time the waters arc blue ot ^roon according as tlip cIduiI.h intorccpt or modify the solar rays, conjointly with the nature and depth of tlic i>oltoni of tne ^en. It is also possible that the colour may W nmn\i to banks at its surl'^oo, cumpusod of niyrii^dg (if piiiBtacea louiewhat similar to the prawns of the coasts of Europe. 124 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. At the entrance of the gulf, on the eastern side, may be seen in the distance, the Bummits of Sierra Madre ; these separate the provinces of Jalisco, Sinaloa, and Sonora, and those of Nuevo Mexico, Chihuahua, and Diirango. The coast of Lower California presents, without interruption, a aeries of rugged peaks of volcanic origin, and'^without any vegetation. This mountain chain, which comes down from the North, and extends throughout the whole peninsula, gradually decreases in elevation as it approaches cape San Lucas. The eastern side of the Gulf of California, between latitudes 28" and 82°, consists of the coasts of the departments of Sinaloa and Sonora, which are divided by the river Fuerte. The population of these two provinces is about 800,000, of whom perhaps 00,000 are Indians. The climate is temperate, and the lands in the interior are fertile, but the principal sources of wealth are the mines of gold and silver ; it is said that upwards of two hundred places have been explored and worked, and that these precious metals are met with everywhere. In these two departments are some considerable cities. The most important are in the province of Sinaloa, CtiUacan, where reside the governor, bishop, and the prefet of the province kc, population aboiit 10,000, — Rosario, having a population of possibly 3500, and where the general commanding the forces ojf Sinaloa and Sonora resides. In the province of Sonora is Aiizpe, the capital until the year 1839, when in consequence of the incursions of the Apache Indians the seat of govorameut was transferred to the ancient mission of San Jose de los Urea, 40 leagues to the southward, — population 7000. In this province the port of Giiayvins concentrates all maritime commerce, but Hermosillo is the centre of its trade and riches. Besides these towns there are in these two provinces many large villages or pueblos. In no part of the many miles of coast between Mazatlan and Guaymas is there a town. At a short distance from the beach there is a depth of 7 to 8 fathoms, and at ] 5 to 20 miles from it 44 to 55 fathoms. The principal rivers, sailing northward from the port of Mazatlan are the Pia^tla ; the Elota ; the Tavala ; the Culiacan, with a small port named Altata (the sea in front of this river is so shallow that large vessels ought to give the entrance an offing of 5 or G miles) ; the Tamasula ; the Macapule ; the Sinaloa, — to the north-westward of which is point San Ignacio, whence a reef extends seaward about 8 miles. North of point San Ignacio is the river Fuerte or Santa Maria do Ahome, It is said that at the river Fuerte, it is necessary when anchoring to get a mile north or south of tho ontnmco to obtain a depth of 5 to 6.J fa- thoms. About 50 miles northward from Fuerte river is the mouth of the river Mayo which \i almost closed by a bar. In the vicinity of Guaymas is the river Yaqui, the banks of which are inhiibitcd by an Indian tribe of tho same uanio. Although none of the rivers, just mentioned, arc nnvigablo, their eutrancoa will receive coasters, which bring mcrcliaudise from Mazatlan, Guaymas and sometimes oven from San Bias. Tlio goods are carried thonco on the backs of mules to Culiacan, Villa Feliz de Tamasula, Sinaloa, Villa del FucrLo and Alamos, Ofl" the coast of Sonora northward from Guaymas there are some islands which bear the names of San Pedro Nolasco, San Fedro Martir, and in about lat. 20" that of Tiburou. The last mentioned island is inhabited by the Seris tribe of Indians, who have some huti on this main laud ; it is 10 leagues long, nnd is the only island in th« GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 125 gnlf whicli 18 inhnbited. The channel eastward of the iaianu, between It and the shore, is narrow and dangerous, and is fronted at its northern end by Fatos island. All this part of the province of Sonora is banxu and inhabited only by stoma miser- able Tepocas Indians. As far as the river Colorado the coast is for the most part very low and barren, and the wind continually raises from it clond» of very tine sand. The Colorado river has its source in United States torritoiy, in about hit. 40° ; its length is estimated to be about 1 500 miles, of which aboi>t 000 miles is navigable for vessels of small draught. When descending the ueatern side of the gulf, from north to south, we pass the watering places of San Felipe, San Fermin, Santa Ysabcl, La Visitacion, San Estanislao, the bay of San Luis de Gouzaga, San Juan y San Pablo, Los Remedios, the bay of Los Angeles, San Rafael, capes San Miguel and San Juan Bautista, the islet of San Barnabe, cape Trinidad, Santa Anna islet, and the eape of Las Yirgcnes, which ia the last extinct volcano in Lower California, and which, according to the Jesuits, was still in activity in 1746. There is much sulphur iu the neighbourhood of the crater of this volcano. Upon the parallel of the volcano of cape Las Virgenes, at 5 and 8 leagues in the interior, are the missions of Santa Maria Magdalena and Nuestra Benorade Guadalupe. In lat. 29° ia the island of Angel de la Guardia which ia long and narrow, and forms with the coast the Balleuas channel, where a great number of whales have been met with. Opposite the island, at 9 leagues from the shore, is the mission of Sftu Francisco de Boija. Opposite the island of San Marcos, in lat. 27° 12', but at 6 leagues inland, there still exists the mission of San Iguacio. That of Santa Rosalia lies half a league from the sea on the banks of the river Muloge, Pearls are, of were, found here, and oq the banks of the river fruits and grain are grown. From Mulege bay to Loreto there ia always, near the land, a depth of 20 to 80 fathoms, and the coast contains several good anchorages ; the points met with are Concepcion, Santa Teresa, Pulpito, San Juan,, Mereenarios, point Mangles, and San Bruno cove. At 8 leagues northward of Loreto the little island of Coronados offers shelter from the north-eastward. Near the beach of the mission there is a depth of 4 fathoms, and under the lea of the island of Carmen 18 to IG fathoms. The mission of Real de Loreto, opposite Carmen island, was ooee the capital of Lower California, but in 1844 it had only about 200 inhabitants ; it was then so much decayed that the authorities had transferred to the Real de San Antonio. The presidio, the mission, and the church, were iu ruins. These buildings, very substantially built by the Jesuits, were intended to serve, iu case of attack, as an asylum to the inhabitants. They are surrounded by a thick wall, which turns the waters of a torrent that descends from the mountains ; and which several times washed away the houses and the vegetable earth. The presidio was defeuded by some small bronze artillery, which was never used. The church, for a long time after its decay, contained many pictures, pilver tossels, and dedicated jewels of considerable value, which, though left quite exposed, were considered safe from s^. liation. 1 ■ 126 GULf' OF CALIFORJIiA. At 15 leagues in the interior, westward of Loreto, are the missiotaa o^ San ^ose dti Comandn and San Frandsco Xavier. Southward of Carmen island are the iTanzantes islands, the Pearl hanks', the Galefaa islands, Catalana, (3 leagues in length), Monserrate, &c. The only points visited hy shipping are the harbours of La Piiz and San Jose del Cdbo'. La Paz (where Cortez landed, May 8rd, 1535, )ris in lat. 21% long. 110''(appi'oximate)^ It iff the most c^ommercial port of Lower California, and the seat of the terri- torial government. Vessels from San Bias, Mazatlan, and Guaymas, often come here to purchase shell ect from IG to' 18 piastres' thequinfal, ftUd nrother-of-pearl shells at d piastres the hundred-weight. At La Paz, the Bio Yaqtfi, and Guaymas, small vessels of 20' to 46 tons each, ate, at were formerly, fitted out for the pearl fishing. Hie divers afe all Yaquf Indiaas, who often descend to a depth of 10 or 12 fathoms. The fishing begins la M^, and ends in October. The principal pearl banks in the giilf afS iff th6 bay of La PaZ, neaf Lofeto, the S.W. point of Carmen isla!n'd, Puerto Escondido, Los Coronados, Los Dauzautes, San Bruno, and San Marcos islands. tvinda. — The ^evailing winds in the gulf of CalifoVnia, fifbm Novembeif to May, Are frow the north-west, afid froni May to K^ovember, from the south-east. During the season of thef north-west winds the weather is always fine; though, toward the head of the gulf, during the months of Decrenlber, January', and February ,t moderate gales- from the north-west are frequently experienced. During the rainy season, or from May to November, south-easterly gales may be expected at any time below Guayrtas, tfnd occasionally a local htfrricane or cyclone, known as "El Cordonazo," blows with great violence. This latter is generally toward the end of the rainy season. After this the weathei* clears, the Eforth-weist witid sets in, and fine weatfeef for six or seven months follows. Cfirrents and Tides. — The currents depend in a great measure u'pon ibe prevailing winds. Between Guaymas and San Bias they ai'e strong atfd ifi-egfttlar during the rainy season. Tides are felt throughout the Gulf of Culifornia; their height varies with the direction and force of the wibd, artti the coufigUraltion of the coUstsf thus it is 7 feet at Mazatlan, the road of \»hich is open; and at Guaymas, the port of which is strewn with islets, and bheltered fronif the wind, it does not exceed 5^ feet. In the ipper part of the gnlf, nbovo Gunynias, the tides ebb and flow regularly, increasing in strength until tbo month of tho Colorado is reached, where the ebb tide frequently flows at the rate of 5 or C knots per hour. Th«i OOA8T. — The coast between Mazatlan and Gaaym:as is low and daftgerous and should only be approached with the greatest caution. During the rainy season the currents are strong and variable, particularly off the mouths of the small rivers and esteroa. About 8 miles N.N.W. from Pojafos island is Camftron point, a roeky bloff 60 feet high, with a hill 885 feet high about n mile inlands Thence the coast trends N.W. i W« BOCA TAVALA, CULIACAN RIVER, Ac. 127 2ij^ miles to Punta Piasthi, ti rocky headlatxl, 110 feet high, T,Vith a reef extending ofif a sboi't distance to the southward and westward. The coast between these two points is low and sandy, except at Grueza point ; midway between them lies a rocky bluff surmounted by a hill 90 feet high. Nine miles to the nortbv/ard and eastwaM of Grueza point is a double peak/ 2120 feet high ^ 5 miles to the westward of which is a solitary table -peak 1220 feet high. FUstia R*ver, 8 miles northward of the point of the same name, is a mere creek until the rainy season converts' it into a torrent. Vessels which come here for dye- wood anchor in 5 or fathoms, half a mile from the beuek and abreast a pier and some huts on the shore. The approximate geographical position of the entilaBce of the river is lat. 28° 42' 20", lonj?. 106" 45'. Biota Btvdk', 15 miles north-west of Punta Piastla, like the Piastia, is merely a creek in the dry season, but during the rains a turbid torrent. About 80 miles up the river is the village of Elota. The approximate geographical position of the entrance of the river is lat. 28° 54', long. 106° 5a'. BvD* Ta^aia. — From Panta Piastla to Boca Tavala, or entrance to Ban Lorenzo river, the coast trends N.W. f W. about 60 miles. The coast between tbem is low and sandy, but free from outlying shoals. About 15 to 20 mile? inland 19 tbe Sierra de San Sebastian, from 1000 to 5000 feet high,' and extending for 80 miles almost parallel with the coasts The approximate geographical position of Boca Tavala is lat;, 24° 15', long. 107° 21' 80". The anchorage outside the entrance is in c or 7 fathoms water, 2 miles from tbe beach, with tbe round-topped peak of the distant range of mountains bearing N.E. by N. This peak is 4700 feet high, and distant &1 miles from the anchorage. The San Lorenzo river in tlie dry season is onfy navigable for coasters' drawing 6 feet. The distance from the mouth of the river to the village of Quila is 17 miles;> Ships come here for dye-wood.' ouuaoan Biv'Ai^. — From B>ca Tavala tlie trend of tbe coa«t i^ 1*1 ,W. by W. i W* 89 miles to the entrance of Altata estero and Guliacan river. All this coast is low and sandy, the low land extending many miles inland to moderately high ranges of mountains. The channel into Ctfliaea'n river lies between heavy breakers which extend nearly 8 miles seaward of the entrance. The depth on the bar between these breakers varies,- averaging 2^^ to 4^ fathoms. The anchorage off Altata estero is in 6 fathoms, 8J mihes from the entrance, with the saddle of El Dorado (2G21 feet high), in range with the distant Double peak (6897 foot high, 55 miles inland), bearing N. 43° E. Tliis is, or was (1873), also the range for entering the estero, with 2i fatlioms on the bar at low water. Small vessels find excellent anchorage, sheltered from every wind, off the village of Altata, inside the esterov Schooners and vessels of 50 or 100 tons can enter tbe river at any time, provided they have sufficient wind in their fn'our to enable them to stem the tide, which has o- ■trength ocoasioually of 4 to 5 knots. The obb tide carries discoloured water several iJii •< i 128 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. t I: II miles to sea; this is often mistaken for shoal water. The eonndings from seaward to the bar decrease very regularly ; at the bar the depth decreases suddenly. The river' above Altiita is reported to be navigable for a distance of 10 or 12 miles, with an average depth of 5 fathoms. Altata, the seaport of Culiacan, is a small village near the Culiacan river, which empties into the ostei'o about 3^^ miles from the mouth of the latter. The approximate geographical poi^ition of the village (assuming Creston island, Mazatlan, to be in long. 106° 23) is lat. 24° 30' 30", long. 107° 63'. It is high water on the days of full and change of the moon at lib. 80m<; spring tides rise about C feet. Supplies. — There is but a poor supply of drinkable wafer, and provisions are scarce. Cattle can be procured from the rancho of Tule, at 6 miles from the landing place. There is a good road from Altata and also from Salina to Culiacan ; it runs along the river Culiacan which fulls into the cstero of Altata. On both banks are Indian villages, the inhabitants of which cultivate maize, beans, &e. The distance from Altata to Culiacan is 3U miles. Provisions and various means of conveyance can be obtained at Altata. Culiacan is the capital of the province of Siualoa. It was founded in 1634, thirteen years after the taking of Mexico by Cortez. In 1853 the town was pillaged, since then its importance has greatly diminished, so that it contains now (1867) only about 8000 inhabitants. If a time of tranquility were to return it would in all probability soon regain prosperity, its geographical position being excellent. Its corameree is chiefly in dye-woods, cotton, and maize. The following instructions for Altata are very imperfect, and are added because they may be of use in the event of the services of some one having a knowledge of the locality not being obtainable ; — a pilot should be got if possible. Captain Horn of the Hiirnbnrg barque Culima, 1860, says : — "As it is difficult to rucoguise the locality of Altata, particularly in the dry season, a coaster with a dull craft, well acquainted wiUi the coast, may possibly make a quicker passage than a stranger in a fast clipper. Leaving Manzan- la in the dry season, which is best done with the land breeze, it is advisable to make long tacks and carry as much canvas as possible to stem the current, not doubling cape Corrientes too closely, the current there being very strong. Having reacbed the parallel of 21", stand in for the coast, and make the land in the vicinity of Piedra dtl Mar, in order to anchor, if it should fall calm, as it generally does at night. lu the Cnliuia (JtSO tons) we brought up with the small hedge (2J cwt.) and a 6 inch warp. The depth of water between Tecapan river and Mazatlan, at about a mile from sIkwo, varies from 9 to 12 fathoms; there are no known dangers but what are visible, tlio lead showing the distance from the land ; — the vessel, beating to windward, should never leove anchoring ground, as the cun-ent runs southward at a rate of 80 to 40 miles in 24 hours, and it would in a calm, drift back a considerable distance. On leaving Manzanilla in the rainy season, a passage to Altata ia very easily made, carrying a fair wind all the way; but in the dry season when the N.W. wind is blowing, much difficulty is experienced, as strong winds and currents are against you at thai ALTATA, PLAYA COLORADO. 12» tiftie. It ifl advisable to hng the Mexican coast, in order to anchor, in case it bLonld fall calm, as it generally does at night ; — by standing out of anchoring ground it is probable that the vessel will drift back in the calm, nearly as much distance as ^ras gained when beating up. On the passage, sight will be obtained of the Sierra de San Sebastian. Having approached about lat. 24° 89' or 2i° 10', long. 108° 10', the saddle-shaped hill of Tamasula will bear N.N.E. ^ E. and the vessel will then be W. by 8. from the anchorage, distant 7 miles. Steer E. by N. and anchor as soon as in 8 fathoms water, muddy bottom. On steering for the anchorage of Altata, if the lat. of 24° 85' be passed, take care not to approach the shore too much, as there are reefs stretching out several miles to the southward. It is by no means safe to anchor too near the shore. In case it should come on to blow it is requisite to slip anchor and stand out to sea until the weather moderates." Captain Clemenceau of the Bordeaux vessel Elizabeth, 18.58, srtys of this river,* "The anchorage of Altata is in lat. 24° 42', and a little north of the entrance to the river Culiacan. When approaching it from seaward, the first land seen is the moun- tains of Agua-pepe, which are situated some miles in the interior of the country; these present four detached summits, and it is the most northern of them that has to be kept in view when running for the laud, — it should be kept eastward of N.N.E. in order to avoid the bnks southward of the anchorage, which are said by the coasters to extend 8 miles to seaward, but this distance there are reasons for believing is exaggerated. As all this coast is excessively low, it would be impossible at night to see any part of the shore before striking on the banks just alluded to ; hence the lead must be freely hove, especially if there be reason to suspect that the vessel is in their proximity. The soundings are an excellent guide, and it is recommended not to get into a less depth than 15 or 13 fathoms. The coast at the anchor;ige trends S.E. and N.W. inclining a little to westward. At a little more to the north it forms a point known as point Baradeta, off which are some shoals which extend out a considerable distance, piiliaps 5 or miles. The anchorage of Altata is between these shoals and others situated 4 miles to the south- ward. The fine season for visiting this coast commences in November and continues till June. Daring this time vessels are in complete security." From the entrance of the estero of Altata the distance to Boca Playa Colorado is about 89 miles in a N.W. direction. All the intervening coast is low and dangerous, as shoals extend off a long distance, particularly otf Tule estero, 10 miles above Altata, and as far to the northward and westward as Altamura point, 9 miles above Boca Tule, where shoal water (4^ fatlioms) is found 8 miles from the land. riaya Colorado. — The entnince to the estero of Playa Colorado lies between two lines of bhoals on which the sea breaks oven in moderate weather. The depth of water in the channel is usually only 9 feet, but during the rainy season there is' said to be 12 feet water on the bar. ■i • Annalei Hydrographiquei, Vol XIV., Page 309. IM GUI/F OF CALIFORNIA. The anehontge is in 6 or 6 faihoms about 4 nileR from the motith of the estero, snd at the head of the banks or shoals making oiT to the southward and westward. To enter the estero make for the beach to* the eastward of the entrance, to within half a mile of the shore, and then proceed parallel to the shore-line, passing between the two lines of breakers, and carrying from 9 to 12 feet at low water. The tides rise 6 feet. The little town of Playa Colorado is 4 or 5 miles from the month of the estero, and contains about 200 inhabitants. Its approxinnite geographical position is lat. 25° 15', long. 108° 16'. Large quantities of dye-wood are annnaflly shipped from here. The following observations on making Playa Colorado are by Captain Eisenmenger, 1969: — " Sailing for Playa Colorado from M&zatlan, I should recommend keeping the Mexican coast on board as far as Tavala nvountain in about lat. 24° ; the coast thus far may be considered tolerably clear, but always keep the lead going when standing inshore to take advantage of land and sea breezes. Then stand across to the Lower California coast, — where you ought to be able to make the south end of Ceralbo island, but there is a strong current setting to the southward in mid-channel; then beat up till abreast the north end of Espiritn Santo island, and you will probably be able to fetch your port on the port tack. When in lat. 25° 10' or 25' 15', — or better still, having sighted the Faralione of St.^ Ignacio (a conspicuous white roek in lat. 25" 26', long. 109° 21'), steer due East inland, always keeping the lead going, till in about 6 fathoms; if you are then too far to the northward, run in this depth and at this distance from the shore to the southward, till you see the breakers on the Altamura banLs far out to sea in a S.S'.E. and almost South direction from you; yen may then anchor in 6 or 6 fathoms, with the entrance of Playa Colorado inlet bearing obont N.E., and about 5 miles off the breakers on the bar. There is a difficult bar before the entrance to this inlet ; part of it is a dry sand bank, separated from the main land to the northward by a shallow channel, and on which the sea continnaHy breaks. The entrance to the inlet is weH to the southward of this sand bank — where you will find an opening in the breakers; having entered, the channel' leads in smooth water in a northerly direction along the breakers on tho bar, and the south bank which fronts Saliacca island (south of the entro.nce). When up- with the above-mentioned dry sand bank, you may keep away and steer for the furthermost point of land to the northward, where yon wiH fitid yotfrself in a beautiful wide bay with- 6 to- 7 fathoms of water, p>;otected from all winds. The bay would Meommodate hnadreds of ships. Coasting' vessels always enter over the bar, on whicb there is about 18 feet at high water ; rise and fall of the tide about 7 feet. The bay extends some' distance inland, nnd there is a channel' inr/ide Saliacca island and the main by which small coasters and boats are snid to go to Altata. The mainland fronting this bay is an extensive mangrrve swamp, cut through by many riverlike inlets, which stretch a great way inland and then terminate suddenly where the country begins to rise. These inlets are called estei'os ; and the latgiest of them leads to two places whence the dye-woods come, Colorado and £1 Manglon. To find the mouth of this estevo, after entering over the bar, follow tho north shore of the bay as far as a high sandhill, which stands close to the shore ; then steer across the kay, nearly midway, or latber uefM:«r the north shore, just keeping the northernmost P^AYA COLORADO, Ac. 181 bush on Saliacca island open; this will lead yon (in a channel between two shallow sand banks) up to the mouth of tho es'rro; follow the branch to the right; after passing some bends you will find anothor branch to the right, which you must not enter, but tho next fork beyond branches off to the tWo places, and yoii are then within a short distance of either, — the branch to the right leading to Colorado, tho one to the left to El Munglon. The right branch of the estero leading to Colorada is very crooked, with many little creeks And openings in it, and now you mnst follow your own judgment, keeping in general towards the feft hand ; from a boat's mast or a tr6e ou shore, you: can see the masts of the small coasters 6r lighters, or even the houses and piles of dye-wood at Colorado. The custom-house and port-captain's Office are at La Bregha,'. about 12 miles from; Phaya Colorado, but rather nearer El Manglon. Vessels from Mazatlan generally take a pilot at about $60. Boca Navaeaista is distant 25^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from the entrance to Playa Colorado. The tfnchotage otitside the eat'ero is in 6 fathoms, between 2 and 3 milesT from the shore. The etitranc'e is* narrow and intricate, with 7 feet on the bar at low water. It has become so shallow that the town of Navachista is fast becoming depopu- lated, and its* rival, Playa Colorado, increasing to a corresponding extent. (1874). Seven miles to the northward and westward, in the lagoon, is a remarkable white' rock, 75 feet high. On the small sand-island of Yitiorhmtf, wTiich lies b'etween the islands of San Ignacio' and Macapule, tolerable good ft'esh-water may be obtained by sinking wells. Thsre are several cotton farms or ranches on this island. About 16 miles eastward of Boca Navachista is the nioiith of the riter Sinaloa,- useless for navigatiotr. Topoiobampo. — This harbortr Kes 2^^^^ filile^ W. by N. ^ N. from Boca Navachista. Its entrance is between two lines of breakers and is exceedingly narrow and intricate. The depth is (or was in 1874) 2i^ to" 3 fathoms on' the bar at low' water, b ' as the shoals constantly shift no dependence Can be placed on the same depth being maintained any length of time. Before entering this fine bay with a vessel drawing more than- 12 feet, it wouM be nebessary to soimd tmd buoy the channel. The approximate geographical positiorr of the entrance to Topolobampb' harbour iff lat. 25° 32', long. 109° 7'. The FarallOne of San I^acio (hereafter described), a small ban-en lotsk, 10 miltds S. by £. fronr San Ignacio' point, and the highlands of Topolobampb and San Ignacio, are excellent landuiarks for making the anchorage off the mouth of the harbour. Inside the shoab there is excellent anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, sheltered from every wind. Foint San zgAaeio, in about lat. 25° 30', long. 109^ 20', is distant I'H miles W. i N. ft-om the entr'jce to Topoiobampo harbour. The intervening coast forms an open bay known as the bay of. San Ignacio. There is good anchorage in this bay in' north-west winds, but to southerly winds' it is entirely ex^wsed. A dangerous shoal extends off the point 3 or 4 miles to the westward, also to the southward about a mile > close around this reef the sbundiugs are 19 and 20 fathoms. San zgnacto Faraiione.-^At about 10 miles S. by E. from San Ignacio point is a- tmall rocky island (perhaps 1^ miles long) of the same name, which rises to the height' M lii 18SI GULF OF CALIFORNIA. : i of 465 feet, and is the resort of numerous seals, sea-lions and birds; its position is about lat. 25° 26', long. 109° 21', and its situation in the gulf makes it a prominent object to such vessels bound northward as may get too far over to the eastern shore. From point San Ignacio the coast turns sharply to the northward and for about 20 miles consists of a low shore with extensive lagoons (or esteros) behind it. Abom« iilT«r. — The entrance to Ahome, or Fuerte. river is in about lat. 25° 55', long. 109° 24'. Shoal water extends a long distance off the mouth of this river, so that it is only navigable by small coasters. The village of Ahome is situated about 10 miles from the sea ; from this village a road rune along the left bank of the river to Fuerte, a distance of about 80 miles. In the rainy season large quantities of dye-wood are floated down in rafts and flat-boats. The anchorage is ofi' the entrance in 6^^ fathoms water. About 11 miles N. by E. from the mouth of Ahome river is the entrance of Alamos river, which is only navigable for the smallest coasters. Four miles to the Bouthwatd of this river is a remarkable hill, 406 feet high, known as Alligator hill. This hill serves, with mount Alamos, ns an excellent landmark f()r finding Agiabampo. Agia^' •npo. — Agiabampo estero is distant about 10 miles to the uortliward of point San Ignacio. The southern or main entrance channel is narrow and iulricato, being between shoals and sand bars, upon which the sea breaks. The least depth on the bar in this channel in 18GG was 6 to 12 feet, but it is subject to change. The depth immediately outside this channel is 4 to G fathoms. On the souchem side of the entrance of the port is, or was, a cross standing on a sand-hill 75 feet Ligii. To enter the estero bring this cross, or hill, to bear East, asid steer directly for it until iuaide the northern shoal, then haul up and run parallel to the shore. (1874), The town of Agiabampo is 9 miles from the crosa. Dye-wood, silver-ore, and treasures are shipped from this port. Tho distance from ihe landing place of Agia- bampo to Alamos is 45 miles, and to Fuerte 47 iiiiles, along carriage roads. The geographical position of the cross on the hill is considered to be lat. 20° IG' 18", long. 109° 15'. In 18G9 there were two navigable channels in use; the northoiii channel, round the north-east extremity of the sand-bar fronting the port, then carried G feet water in flne weather. Captain Townsend, ll.N., who visited the harbour in 18GG, says "Agiabampo is difficult to find as the coast " . composed of one loug lino of low sand-hills covered with bushes ; mount Alamos to the north, and Alligator hill to the south are the best guides to it. The best anchorage is in about 7 or H tathoms, with Alligator hill bearing S. i "W. ; mount Alamos N. by E. .} E. ; and the cioss on the hill E. ' H. The sound- ings decrease very regularly until ndr the bar, wiien from fJJ fathomn the water shoals suddenly to 9 loot. The best timr for boats to outer in the morning, before or with the first of the sea breeze. Schooners of 50 to 100 tons go in ftud out with tho sea and laud winds. Treasure fi'oui Alamos Is uow shipped hero ; it is, ounKcqueutly, much frequented." Santa Barbara Bay. — From Agiabampo tho coast trends northerly and then westerly tu tlio euiiaucc of £Iayo rivor, a distauue of about <15 miles ; 10 miles tai thur westward CIARIS AND LOBOS ISLANDS. 188 is a low reddish point, known e.s Panta Rosa, the western limit of Santa Barbara bay. The approximate geographical position of Punta Kosa is lat. 26° 40', long. 109° 38'. On the western side of Sunta Barbara bay, and about a mile insido Puuta llosa, is an excellent anchorage in north-west wi)}ds, but entirely open to those from the south- east. The best anchorage is iu or 7 fathoms thi-ee-fourths of a mile from the shore, with the ruins of an Indian house on the beach bearing N.N.W. The country in this vicinity is fertile and well watered, and quite thickly populated. About 8 miles from the mouth of the Mayo, and on its right bank, is the Indian town of Santa Cruz. The Moyo, like all the rivers on this coast, is closed by a bar, leaving a narrow channel on the eastern side of 2 fathoms in the dry season. About 82 miles north- east from the mouth of the Mayo, is mount Alamos, 1980 feet high, an excellent land- mark in navigating the coast. Santa Barbara is the port of Alamos, which is distant 82 miles along a carriage road. Provisions are, or were, plentiful. From Punta Rosa the coast trends W.N.W. 12 J^ miles to Arboleda point and is fronted by shonl water to a considerable distance. A few miles inland of Arboleda point is a remarkable clump of trees, the only trees in this locality, and an excellent landmark. Claris laiand, separated from the main by a narrow estero of the same name, forms the coast-liBo to the northward of Arboleda point, as far as the entrance to the estero. It is a low island about 12 miles in extent and is distinguished from Lobos island, farther to the northward, by the absence of the palm-tree. From the north-western end of Ciaria island to Lobos point, in about lat. 27° 20', long. 110° 85', the distance is 42 miles and direction W. by N. ^ N. This coast is low and sandy, covered with bushes and cut up by lagoous, oft" the entrances to which shoal water extends from 1 to 2 miles. Lobos point is the south-west extreme of LoboS" island; a dangerous shore makes off nearly 2 miles to the northward and we'jt- ward of iliis point. laoboB Island, about 4^^ miles in extent, is low and sandy, and is separated from the inaiulaud by the narrow Estero de la Luna. The highest part of the island is a remarkable grocu tnouiul, 75 feet high, about a mile south-eastward of Lobos point; it is iaiown as Monte Verdo. lUtwoon the hill and the point is a solitary poun-tree, by which the locality is recogiiistul by the caiiHtors. About 40 miles E.N.E. from Lobos point, and to the south-eastward of Sierra Yaqui, is the siuiill range of Buroyeca, the highest peak of which has an altitude of 8298 feet. From Lobos point the coast trends northerly for about 82 miles to Cerro Yaoicoris ; it is vorj low, cou.-iiHting nuu'oly of a narrow stoop of saiul, separating the sea from the numerous lagoons boluud. Midway of the above distance is the inouth of tho Now Yaqui river. 'J'ho entrance of the Yaqui is filloil with shoals and sand-bars, and in the dry season is only navigable for tlio smallest coasters. All tho country watered b;, tlio rivers Yaiiui and Mayn is exclusively inhabited by Indians. Formerly the mouth of Yaqui river was just to t!ic iMislward of Cerro Yacicoris. About 20 miles inland, and to the eastward of Corro Yaoicoris, is u range of moun- 4 J94 GULF OF CALIFORNIA.. !■ J iaina known as tke Sietis, Yaqui, the highest peak of which, mount Bacatele, has an altitnde of 8842 feat. From Gerro Yaeicoris the coast, consisting of a smooth sand'heaeh, trends westerly Aboat 18 miles to Morro Inglese, at the entrance of Guaymas ha^'bour. ocTAYasAS, the most important harbour in the Gulf of Galifornia, is situated on the north-east side of a hilly peninsula, of which cape Haro, 5 miles South {true) from the town, is tl]« extremity. Gape Uaro, according lo Cnpt. Kellett's observations, is in lat. 27° 50' 80", long. 110° 51' 40". The harbour is 8 miles in extent, is protected by several islands, and has a depth of 6 to 2 fathoms, the latter being immediately off the town. The population in 1874 was about 4000. The outermost island, Pajaros, is 212 feet high, and connected on its northern side to a low sandy neck of land, th£ Playa de los Dolpres, by a shallow flat of 15 feet ; the proper passage into the harbour for large vessels is consequently westward of this island, between its south end and the coast, through a channel half a mile wide .and about 6 fathoms deep. The island of Trinidad, to the westward of the entrance, is now known as San Vicente. When within, vessels are sheltered from all winds, and anchoi'age may be selected according to the ship's draught of water. This port, although small, is one of the best on the coast of the Pacific. It is perfectly sheltered from all winds, and is sufficiently deep to accommodate frigates. Vessels of light draught can approach the mole, which is in a bad state, and if the water in front of this were dredged so as to increase the depth 9 or 10 feet, almost all commercial vessels could get to it. (1867). Supplies. — Fresh-water is of indifferent quality and expensive ; the same may be said of the wood. Excellent flour, fresh bread, and beef, may be obtained in any quantity and at moderate prices. No salt provisions or ship's stores can be purchased. At present (1874) the Golorado River Steam Navigation Company has a small quantity of coal for steaming purposes deposited here. Tides. — It is high water on the days of full and change of Ihe moon at 8h. and the rise of tide is about 4 feet, but dependent upon the winds which sometiiqes in rease it to 10 and 12 feet, Some of the hills immediately over the town are lofty, of these mount Vigia, having an estimated height of 1585 feet, is considered to bo the highest. Mount Ban Rafael over capo Haro is probably 1310 feet high. The following notes on Guaymas are extracted from the work of M. Diiflot de Mofras, 1844 : — " The port of Guaymas may bo recognised from tiie offing by a mountain surmounted by two peaks which are supposed to ri'somblo the teats of a goat ; hence the mountain is named by the Moxifians Lns Tetus do Ciibra. Wlien tliis is distinguished, run along the coast, leaving it a little to port, nuJ Pajiivos island, on the east side of the entrance, will soon bo seen ; steer new so as to leave this iHland to starboard, and you will pass through tlio channel which it forms with the shore, nnd soon gain sight of the town and port of Guayn^as. It is neceflsary to pass westward of rujarits island because a bank runs from it northward to the blioro. Tiio rntranre of the harbour once doubled, two islands are seen ip tlie inuer part of the buy, and the pasHiige in between these to roach the anciiorage, near or otf the land, according to the vessel's draught of water. Vcnsels under 100 tons make fast to the landing place, and ^^ GUAYMAS. 1S5 those drawing 12 to 16 feet anchor a quarter of a mile off, in 8 or 4 fathoms. Large vessels should cast anchor ontside these islands in 6 or 7 fathoms water. This harbour, which would hold a considerable number of vessels, is very safe in all seasons ; the bottom is good holding ground, aud it is sheltered from all winds, and forms a large basin, strewn with islands, which prevent any heavy swell from reaching it. The bank in front of the entrance is tbu only danger to shipping but it is easily avoided with leading winds, by keeping along the laud, A vessel obliged to beat in, must be careful not to touch this sboal. The town of Guaymas has usually about 5000 inhabitants during the fine season, — during the rainy season about 2000 return to the small towns in tbe interior. The port possesses neither fovtifications nor garrison. There are numerous military aiii naval oflScers residing in this town, but as for the vessels of the latter they exist only on paper. Tbe low price and excellent quality of the flour at Guaymas offer considerable advantages to shipping requiring such. The merchants export the flour to Mazatlan, San Bias, Loreto, and La P^*.?. Bnllocks are sold for about 12 piastres. Vegetables ar.'i very scarce and dear, and the water in the harbour is so bad that it is usual to send boats for it to the river Yaqui r.bout 12 miles eastward of the port. Guaymas is surrounded by high mountains, hence the heat is very great in the rainy season. Tbe same fevers prevail here as at San Bias and Mazatlan." Guaymas was visited in 1850 by Captain A. H. Wilcox, of the U.S. Transport Jnvincible, who anchored in 4J fathoms ; his remarks ou the harbour are as follows : — " The harbour is one of the best upon the coast ; it is perfectly land-locked and pro- tected by its numerous islands from every quarier. It,, has been so often and so well surveyed, that it is unneetssary for me to enter into a minute description of its merits. It is to be regretted, however, that it has not more water, from 4 to 5 faihoms being the average depth, which is insufliciont for a ship of the line, or even a first class frigate. We found Guaymas a dirty place, with a dirty population of about 1500 or 2000. The houses being built of adobe witli the roofs sloping towards the interior, have a very unfluishcd appearance, and from the harbour the town presents the appearance of having been abandoned when half built. There aro two small piers in a ruined condition ; and near the lauding a largo pile of eartii, suuuounted by two or three crumbling walls, over which float)* from a lofty staff tho flag of Mexico, marks the sight of the adobe fort knocked down by the guns of tlio Dale during the late war. There aro several wealthy individuals in Guaymas, who monopolize the whole of the business with the interior of Sonora, but tho mass of tho population aro in a state of wretched poverty. Ono or two small vessels from Ban Fraucisco wore lying in tho harbour, the proprietors of which had purcluiHod everything ju the shapo of Irosh provisions to bo obtained. Sheep in large numbers thoy had purchased from tho interior of Sonora with the intention of lauding them at IMoloxo, on tlio California coast, thence driving them overland to San Francisco. FowIh, tuila,ys, duclis, goats, everything that could be purchased for one real and sold for twenty had diHiippuaied, causing us no little dijljculty in obtaining fresh provisions, even atconipnrutivoiy high prices. Tho water at Gnaynms is obtained from wells, aud is slightly brackish. Excellent oysters (ire brought from tlio river Yaqui, which omptioH into the hay about 20 iiiiKm south of tho town, and 8ol(( to tho •hipping at n dollar a bushel ; the Mexicans, however, make no use of them, ? M ■I n m 3186 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. I ii I The time of high water at full and change of the moon at Guaymas is not very accurately determined ; it is, however, hetween 8 and 9 a.m. The ordinary rise of spring tides is G feet, neap tides 4 .feet. The phenomena of four tides in 24 hours has repeatedly occurred here, as I am credibly informed. The prevailing winds in May, June and July, are from the South-east and South-west. The thermometer during the summer months ranges fi'om 92° to 98° Fahr., the maximum 119° ; during winter fiom 56° to 60°, minimum 45°. Guaymas is in lat. 27° 54', long. 110' 49' 10".* Captain Henry Trollope, R.N. gives the following directions : — " Guaymas once having been seen cannot, with ordinary attention, be mistaken ; the whole coast is so jremarkable that one is only at a loss to say which is the most prominent landmark ; nevertheless, as Pajaroa island lies right before the entrance when 10 or 12 miles to the eastward, it is a blind harbour ; a stranger without a chart might well be in doubt as to the entrance. Cape Haro, a bold blufl' headland, jutting out duo South to sea- ward, and rising with a wall-like clifl' 200 feet from the water, is the best mark for the harbour ; it has 14 or 15 fathoms touching the rocks, and the entrance between Trinidad (an island so caJlod from the distinct manner in which it is formed in three divisions united at their base^ and Pajaros is clear and free from danger, only taking care to give the points, particularly Punta Baja, a berth of half a cable ; the lead is quite Bufficiont guide for going in. Secondly, the white smooth beach of Cochore, extend- ing uninterruptedly from the Morro luglesc, at the entrance of the harbour, 12 miles to the eastward, and terminated sudvlenly by a still more remarkable hill, called Cerro Tordillo, or as wo termed it, Mori o Afulva, lies in such contradistinction to the extra- ordinary mass of hills forming the peninsula, out of which the harbour of Guaymas is hollowed like the crater of a volcano, that it is from the contrast almost equally re- markable. Further to the northward are the remarkable peaks callad Tetas do Cabra (goat's teats). Some have recommended these to bo made, as the prevalent wind is from N.W. and there h certainly no advantage to bo gained by getting over on the Cochore shore, while by making the land to the windward of cape Haro a ship will have the prevalent breeze and current in her favour. The Tetas de Cabra are about 10 miles N.W. by W. of capo Haro ; they stand on the west shore of a largo deep bay, which hns povcral patches of rocks and islets in it. Pajaros isle forms of itself an excellent harbour: in fact, the space between Trinidad, Pajaros, and Morro Inglese is equal as far as security, and superior as to depth of water, to the harbour itself ; the advantage the latter has, is in there being a better access into the interior. The tides are very irregular, except at full and change ; there appears to bo only one tide in the twelve hours, but tlien llio usual interval occurs between liigli and low water. The greatest rise and fall wo observed during 'lur stay, was 4 fout. High water 8h. a.m." Bnaenada da Ban Franeiaoo. — Westward of cape Haro, distant about 4 miles, is capo Arco, 970 feet high ; 8 miles beyond which is point San Antonio. The coast between the two latter points forms a bay which is known as the Eusonada de Francisco. i' f This nhiioit oxnotly n);rooi with tbe obnflrvationi of M. FiBiiunt of Ihu Frciioli covvette I. a Daniiidi;, IHIO, who pluoflB tlio inland Alinagrito, oppoalto thi town, in lot. '27° 5U' f)0", loug. 110" 4y' 26." »^ 1. p i ■ TIBURON ISLAND, &c. 187 'There are several islets in this bay from 10 to 15 feet in height. On its east side is the anchorage of Bacochibampo, sheltered from south-east winds. Here fresh-water, fresh beef, fruit, &c. may be obtained. About one mile i\orthward of this anchorage is the cerro of the same name, 1 1 "lO feet high. Two and a half miles to the ea ^waid of point San Antouio is the entrance to Puerto de San Carlos, or Escondido. This small port is complately land-locked, and affords an excellent anchorage for small vessels, there being B and 4 fathoms water inside. About one mile eaitwiird of point San Antonio are the remarkable peaks. Las Tetas de Cabra, already alluded to. Two mi ' s northward of point San Antonio is a group of small islands, known as the Algodones, the outer Venado island being about one mile from the shore. Ban Fedro Point. — N.Y7. by W. J W. 10^ miles from point San Antonio is a bold rocky headland 515 feet high. To the southward of the point is a small open bay of the same name, in which a ship may find shelter in a nortii-west wind. San Pedro Hoiaseo is about B miles S.W. i S. fronr San Pedro point. It is a barren rocky islet of volcanic origin, about 2 miles in leng .h parallel with the coast, and 500 to 1000 feet in height. There is a sunken rock lying off its south-east end. It is inaccessible on every side. The approximate geographical position of its north-west extremity is lat. 27° 5!)', long. Ill" 22'. From San Pedro point the coast trends N.W. \ W. about 16 miles to Morro Oolorado ; a remarkable headland of a reddish colour, 560 feet high. This part of the coast is high and barren throughout, affording neither shelter nor anchorage. Six miles S.E. | E, from the latter point, is a white rock 60 feet high, distant about 1^ miles from the shore. This and three others close in-shoro are known as Las Piodras Blaucas. Northward of Morro Colorado distant 4^^ miles is the small estero of Tastiota, at the bottom of which fresh-water may bo obtained. San Pedro Martir.—This islet bears from Morro Colorado W. i S. 49 miles, and from the south end of Tiburon island S. J E., 22i^ miles. It is 1052 feet high and Btumls nearly in midohannel. The approximate geogi'uphical position of its centre is lat. 28" 23', long. 112" 17'. From the entrance of Tastiota estero the coast, which is liw and sandy, trendy westerly for about 14 miles and then north-westerly for 22 mijds to Kino point. AIJ this part of the coast is known as the San Juan Bnutista flats. Kino Bay. — Northward of Kino point is an opou Imy of the same name, in which email vessels can find shelter from north-west and south-east winds. At the bottom of this bay is the entrance to La Ornz lagoon. Peiioan Zaiand. — About 2| miles N.N.W. from Ki'40 point is a small island kuowo as Pelican, lying closu to the mainland : it is 540 feet in height. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 28° 48' 80", long. 111° 57'. TIBUAON I8I.ANO. — 'j'he souUi-east end of Tiburon island bears W. by 3. J S, 16 miicH from Pelican island. Tiburon Ih 2!) miles long, H. by E. and N. by W., and 10,1 miles wide; it is high and rugged, its peaks varying in height from 1000 to 2500 feet. It is separated from the main land by ft narrow intricate chauuel, knqvvn us E\ luferuillo, about 2 miles wide. i'! u 188 GULP OP CALIFORNIA. Off the northrwest side of the island is a svall ensenada, aaiped Fresh Water bay. Here ships may find shelter from sonth.-east winds^ Off the southera end of Tibaron island, abpat 1| miles distant, is a small barren island abont one mile in length and 800 feet high, which is named Turner island. Between it and Tiburon is a small rocky islet, 150 fe^t high, leaving a clear channel 8 cables wide between the two last. A dangerous rock, awash at high water, lies 6 cables B.S. W. f W. irom ibis rocky islet. Cap* T«pepa, 8 miles N.N.W. i W. from the northern end of Tiburon island, is a bold headland, 1857 feet high. It forms the north side of the entrance to El Infemillo channel. Fatea zaiand Me^ S. by W. ^ W. 5^ miles from cape Tepopa. It is small and low except on the north-west side, where it rises in a conical bill to the height of 810 feet. It is nearly white from the deposits of guano and entirely barren. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 29° 16' 80", long, 112° 26' 80". Th£re is a tolerable anchorage, in a north-west wind, on tbe southern side, Iq 6 fathoms, sandy bottom, a quarter of a mile from the beach. Spring tides rise 10 feet, neap 7 feet. From cape Tepopa the coast trends N.W, f N. 89 miles to cape Lobos ; it is low and sandy, the coast-range rising to an elevation pf 600 to 2800 fe^t a short distance inland. pimt ^<^pf, off which are some sunken rocks, is the e^treniity of a rocky promontory the summit of which is 11 BO feet in height. Immediately to tbe south-eastward of the cape is the anchorage of Libert^d, where a vessel will be well sheltered from north-west winds. This anchorage is in 8 or 9 fathoms water about half a mile from the head of the bay. Spring tides rise about 12 feet, neaps 9 feet, CapeTapeea is 800 feet high and of a reddish colour. When first seen from north- ward it appears as an island. Another higher hill, of 640 feet, just to the northward of the cape, of a dark red colour on a yellow bed, is an excellent guide to the anchorage in Tepoca bay to the southward of tbe cape. The extreme western point of the bay is low and rocky, with a reef covered at high water, extending off a short distance to tbe southward. Qood anchorage may be found inside this point, in 5 or fathoms at low water, well sheltered in a north-west wind. Spring tides rise about 15 Coet and neaps about 12 feet. About 18 miles N.W. by "S. from cape Tepoca is the entrance to San Ignacio river, in lat. 80° 86', This river only breaks through the sand- bar at its mouth during the rainy season, but frosh-water may be obtained at all times just beyond the sand-hills. Thence to the north-westwaril the coast is of less elevation and consists, as fur as Shoal point, of low sand-hills, and )vith the eiiicoption of some Iqw stunted buslujs, is entirely destitute of vegetation, acorga xaiand, iu lilt. 81° 0' 80", long. 118" W, is merely a barren rpck, 206 fee high. Rocks extend about 1^ miles to the northward and westward of the islet, some of which are above water and others awash at low watfir. A tolerable anchorage in a south-east wind may be found on the northern side of the islet, off a small sand-beach covered at high w^ter, lyhiob connects the islet with the pearest rook. COLORADO RIVEK. 189 The coast northward of George island carves roaod in a westerly direatlon and forms an open bay, known as George bay, off the shores of which shoals extend a con- siderable distance, almost filling the bay. The whole coast thence southward, as far as cape Tepoca, is fronted by shoal water to the distance of 1^ to 2 miles from the sandy beach. Soekyro|«t, a low black point 24 miles N.W. J W. from George island, forms the eastern limit of a small open bay of the san)e name. About 5 miles westward of the point is a headland 408 feet high, known as Rocky bluff, which forms the western limit of Rocky bay. Westward of this bluff is an extensive open bay, named Adair bay, which is BO full of dangerous shoals as to be nnnavigable by the smallest class of coasters. Shoal Point, a low rocky point distant about 40 miles W. ^ N. from Rocky point, is on the eastern side of the entrance to Colorado river. Fort z«ab«i. — Above Shoal point there is a channel, with 2 to 5 fathoms water in it at low water, as far as the slough of port Isabel, which is situated on the eastern side of the river's mouth. The only safe guide is the lead, as the flats and shoals are constantly shifting. Tides. — The tide runs with great strength at the foil and change of the moon, at times as much aa 6 miles an hour. It is high water at port Isabel (F. & C.) at 2h. 80m., and an hour earlier at Shoal point. Spring tides in summer rise 82 feet, in winter 28 feet. 'Jl Hi '■ U w OOLOBASO BTimK. — This river, now in United States territory (except near the mouth), rises on the western slopes of the Sweetwater mountains and the Sierra de las Grullas, between latitudes 40° and 44°, It divides the State of California from the territory of Arizona, Its length from the upper sources of its tributaries is about 1500 miles, — the country in its vicinity being inhabited chiefly by Indians. It has but little depth, especially in the dry season ; its banks, also, are so low that after heavy rains and the melting of the snow on the hills at itq sources its waters overflow and inundate the flat country through which it passes. Its month, at the head of the gulf, is nearly 6 miles wide and divided into three channels by two small islands, named Montague and Gore islands. The main channel is eastward of the islands ; it is narrow aud dangerous and has only 5 or 6 feet water in it. Within the river are many banks dry at low tide. Near the mouth there is no vegetation, but higher up, the shores are thickly lined with rushes, willows, &c., and the interior country is clad with a coarse sharp grass. At about 70 miles in direct distance from its entrance the Colorado receives the Rio Gila, which falls into it from the eastward, after it is increased in volume by the Rio de la Ascencion, formed again by the junction of the ll'os Verde and Salado. All these rivers rise in the branches of the Sierra Madre, have but little depth, and during the rainy season overflow their banks. The country in their vicinity is very fertile, and furnishes abundant evidence of the existence of gold ; it is inhabited by Yunms, Axuas, Coconiaricopas, Apaches and other Indian tribes, in number about 20,000. On the southern side of the, junction of the Colorado and Gila rivers is Arizona citji Ii : I 140 GULP OF CALIFORNU. and on the northern side is fort Ynma, the first station of the Colorado Steam Naviga- tion Company. At this place the sammers are intensely hot (rising to 126" Fahr. in the shade) ; hat the winters are mild, the thermometer never registering below 84° Fahr. ; there is scarcely any rain. The Colorado is navigable for small steamers and barges drawing under 2 feet, as far as Colville, in lat. 86° 18', a distance of about 600 miles from the river's month. Throughout this extent it varies in \nith. from a half to 1^ miles, and its depth aver- ages 4 to 8 feet ; there are no serious obstructions from rapids or other causes. Above Colville the Colorado runs through a wonderful natural phenomenon, the Grand or Black Canon, a gorge 8 to 10 miles in length. Through this, it is said, the river flows with a deep current, and has an average width of 200 feet. The water is smooth and unbroken, and no rocks obstruct the passage. A large portion of the distance perpendicular walls rise to the height of 1000 feet on either side, in some places almost shutting out the light of day, and awaking in the mind of the voyager, the most profound admiration and awe. In solemn grandeur and native sublimity, it is said, no spot on earth equals the Black Canon of the Rio Colorado. Tides. — At Shoal point, near the entrance of the Bio Colorado, the tides rise 25 to 80 feet at springs and 16 to 20 feet at neaps : high water full and change at Ih. 80m. The tidal currents are very strong, running 5 or 6 knots per hour, or oven more. At about 40 miles from the river the tidal motion ceases entirely. Captain Wilcox, U.S. Navy, 1850, gives the following description of Colorado river: — "We landed on the 25th, both on Montague island and the main, and found the soil clay detritus, and the vegetation scanty. The two inlands situated in the mouth of the river, Montague and Gore, are low, flat and sandy. They are separated by a channel about one mile in width, and extremely shallow. They are evidently formed by the accumulation of the sand and detritus from the river, and are gi'adually increasing in size. We commenced the survey of the river upon the 2Sth, which we continued from day to day as we ascended. On the 27th, by taking advantage of the tide, we had succeeded in reaching Uuwin point, off which we anchored. The log gave ns at this point a current at ebb tide of ii miles per hour, which we found to be the average velocity, except at spring tides, when it is much increased. On the 28th we left our anchorage at 7h. a.m., and beat up with the flood tide until about 9h., when we grounded off Charles point. The soundings had been from 1^ to 8j fathoms. At this point we found the water devoid of any brackish taste, but ex- tremely muddy, resembling iu its character that of the Mississippi river. We continued daily up the river, sounding the channel at low water, and marking it by stakes, starting with the flood tide and floating with it until the i.bb set in, when wo anchored and went on shore to continue the survey. The shores of the river (here from 2 to 4 miles wide) continue of the same character, the grass growing somewhat more thickly as wo ascended, however, and upon Grequhithe point, off which we anchored upon the 1st of January, wo found a thick growth of aitemkiu. We had experienced no little difficulty in crossing from CharloH point to Gretuhithe point ; the channel is extremely narrow, and nearly at right angles to the direction of the river, and we had twice been $wept from it by the tide, and grounded upon the bank above. Upon the 1st, however, COLORADO RIVER. 141 we were favonred with a strong breeze, taking advantage of which we soon crossed and anchored in the channel upon the southern side. We landed upon Greenhithe point, (formed by two small indentations in the crumbling clayey bank,) and found the land on the south bank to be a perfectly level plain (the soil clay detritus), extending to the south and west for miles, and intersected by numerous sloughs, apparently filled by every spring tide. The river westward is bounded by the high hills of the Lower California chain, at the distance apparently of 15 or 20 miles. Trunks and limbs of large trees, some recently deposited, others in an advanced state of decay, are thickly scattered about, evidently left by the fresuets. The river bank is abrupt, and about 20 feet in height; the water is gradually undermining it, and large pieces are con- tinually dropping off, falling into the water with a sound as loud and not unlike the distant report ef a musket. We discovered two new islands in the reach above Green- hithe point ; they are low and sandy, separated by a small channel and covered with coarse grass ; they have undoubtedly been formed within a few years. The bed of the river is filled with (]iuickfiand, and its current at the time of spring tides is so strong that the channel is continually changing. I named these islands Gull and Pelican respectively, from the numerous flocks of these birds continually hovering or afloat in their vicinity. We discovered the remains of a rude Indian hut near the shore, and observed many tracks of horses in th« vicinity. During the night of the 1st the vessel grounding sit ebb tide, s>vung around upon her heel, and thumping violently was carried by the tide (draging her anchor) some 2 or 8 miles, grounding finally upon the shoal of Gull island; at flood tide sail was made on her as soon as she floated, and we succeeded in getting her back into the channel. As the vessel grounded at every ebb tide, and on the return of the water was violently swung around, thumping on her bottom, and swinging on her anchor, I began to see that it would be neither prudent, nor in fact possible, to ascend the river much higher, and we accordingly commenced making preparation for a boating expedition ; the tides were now on the increase and on the 2nd I observed, with the log, the velocity of the current at ebb tide to be 6i miles per hour. We observed on the 2nd, for tiro first time, the singular phenom- enon of the tide coming in, in a bore or wave, while tlie ebb was still rushing past the vessel towards the Gulf. On looking in the direction of Greenhithe point, a bank of water some 4 feet in height, extending clear across the river, was seen approaching us with considerable velocity ; it moved steadily onward, occasioualiy breaking as it rushed over the shoals of Gull and Pelican islands ; passing the vessel, which it swung around on its course, it continued up the river. This phenomenon was of daily occurrence until about the time of neap tides, and shows the truth of Hardy's assertion, that "there is no sueh thing as slack-tvater in the river Colorado." I took the whale boat on the afternoon of the 2nd and proceeded up the river with the flood-tide ; rounding Howard point, {so called by Hardy) wo found ourselves in a broad but shallow bay about 4 miles in width. At the north-east and north-west extremities we found the two branches of the river, the former of which he mistook for the Gila; this is in fact the main channel of the river, the other being merely a slough which divides the river, about a mile from its entrance, into two branches, one of which terminates in a aipall lagoou about 4 miles from its mouth, the other communicating with the rivev in !i ;J1 im Ui GULF OF CALIFOMU. above. As ther^ is ndt water enoagh in either of these branches to tfoat & whale boat' at low tide, it is evident that the river must have altered entirely since Lient. Hardy's visit, or that he never ascended it as he says be did with tbe Brijd, a schooner of 25 tons. We Aoanded right across the' bay and found a depth of 2^ to 7 feet. As tbe schooner was drawing 8 feet* this settled the question as to her navigating the Colorado above this point/' After somd interesting remai'ks apon tbe Indians who inhabit tbe Country bordering ott the rrver. Captain Wilcox continues " The bar at the mouth Of tbe Colorado is about 10, possibly 16 miled in width ; the soundings upon it are from 10 feet to 4 fathoms; it is a very loose, muddy bottom, and with a' stiff bi'eeze a vessel could force her way over it, even if drawing a f6ot or more thafr the lead would indicate. The distance from tbe junction of the Gilai and Colorado to tbe motftb of the latter, by watet, is about 104 miles, owing to the many bends of tbe river, though the difference of latitu'de is biit little inbre than half that distance. The navigation of the gulf of California presents none of those difficulties which we bad been led to anticipate. The wind we found invariably from the north-west, Whicb, at this season of tbe year, is its prevailing direction ; it is only during tbe months of Jan'e, July, and August that the gales from the south-east are prevalent ; except in Wh^le channel we noticed none of the strong Carreats so frequently men- tioned as eitstiug in the Gulf.' It would be difficult to mistake th« entrance to the Go'lotiido, it being in fact the heia^ of the gulf, which gradually narrows froin 40 to 8 miles when it is joined by tbe liVer^, whose tufbtd stfeam di&'Coloui's the gnlf for many miles to the southward, in BdtmdiDgs of 12 and 14 fathoms. On the Sonora coast,' bo^vevcr, exists an indentation some 15 or 20 miles in depkh, called by Hardy, Adair bay; the shoals of this can he seen ffom the mast-head, a view from which would prevent one falling into the error which we did of sifpporing it a nrouth of the Colorado. The angle at the junction of ther sfongh and the main river is culled Arnold point, and from the mouth of the river (after crossing the bar) to this point, the channel varies in depth from 15 to 80 feet, at ordinary high tide, ami muy, as we have practically demonstrated, be afwsewded by a vessel having a dramght of 8 or 9 feet, by taking advantage of the flood, which has a velocity of fronr 3 to 5 miles per hour. It is impossible to sail up, however, for although the river varies in width from 8 miles to- 600 yards', tbe channel is narrow and the navigation elsewhere obstructed by the numerous sand bars. Tbe proper method, after passing Gore and Montagae islands through tbe western channel of the river, iff that which we adopted, to drift with the flood tide, keeping close to the highest bank, sounding contioually, and anchoring before the time of high water; in this way we progresued slowly but steadily, making, perhaps, 4 or 5 miles per day, uutil we arrived at the point where we finally landed tbe stores, and whieh I have named Invincible point. Above Arnold point tbe riVer is very circttitouff, the swell of the tide rapidly decreases, the channel becomes narrow, and the water has less depth. At this season, therefore, Arnold point may be considered the head of navigation for vessels of 9 feet draught ; above this point we found always from 8 to 16 hei of watev i» the channel^ whoa» COLORADO RIVEH. 143 width varir^ from 60 > 800 ytrds; and as the river at thdt time was at its lowest stage, I ha^ d no hesitation in saying that it may be navigated at any season of the year by a steam-boat 6f 18 to 20 feeb beam, drawing 2^ to 8 feet of water. A small steru- wheel boat, with a powerful engine and thi^ik bottonr, I would respectfully suggest to be a proper deseription of vessel for this navigation, where a strong cmreui has to be contended with, and the channel (somewhat obstracted b small snags and sawyers,) is quite narrow in several places. At the present season (January, February, and March,) supplies from vessels arriving from the Galf may be lauded near Arnold point, upon the eastern bank, and a road being made from the post (a work of little difficulty over a level sandy plain) they nright be transported by waggons across in three days. It would be preferabie, however^ to establish a depot by anchoring a hulk near Charles point, laden with storesy from which a small steam-boat could can7 more to the post in 24 hours than a hundred waggons eould transport in a week. Either of these methods would be far preferable to the present slow, laborious and uncertain mode of supplying by waggons and pack ranles across the desert from San Diego. The time of high water at full and change at Arnold point is 8h. 20m. p.'M., and the rise of ordiAmry spring tid«s about 12 feet ;• but during the >a«on of freshets the river throughout its extent (judging from the statement of the iuciians and the iodicatioDS' upon the banks)' is at least 15 feet h^her thna at the tim« of otrr visit, and the velocity of the corrent whicb, above the efiFect of tbe tide, was from' 1 to 3 mile" an hour, iff nearly doubled ; the action of the tide ceases about 40 miles from the month ; the banks of the river' are k>w, fliat, and cither sandy or of cmmbling elay which appears to have been deposited in successive strata. Near the mouth there is no vegetation, but higher up the shores are thickly lined with eane, rushes, small willows, acacia and cotton wood, and the country iA tho interior covered with a coarse sharp grass. Invindble point is in lat.- 81° 50* 26", tong. 114° 46' 43". The large shoal south of the point is an island, except at spring tides, and is gradually increasing in size and height."')' WBtaTiiHii AZDB OV ^ttB ol^Zir.' — The doast on' the western side Of the entrance of Colorado' rrver as far as poiat San Felipe, in about lat. 31° 2 J', consists of low plai' i rising gradually towtn-ds a range of mountains, 1600 to 2006 feet high, several miles inland.- Mud flats aad shoals extend nearly to the Sonora shore, having a narrow channel, with 2 to 6 fathoms water, between the flats and the mainland. Southward of point San Felipe,- which rises to a height of 600 feet, is the small bay of the same name,- in' which sonw shelter can be lojnd in a north-west wind. W. by S. } S. from point Felipe is the mountain of Calamahae, 9180 feet high, :!| * Sftn Fmucibco raerohants are much interested to secure tbe trade of the Upper Golorado. whicli- opena a navigable route to GolviUe, 420 miles from Salt Lake, and is fast acquiring commercial impoftaAffe. Two different companies, eieh owning tliree steamers are engaged in a brisk business. Cargo for tlie Colorado river is delivered from San Francisco at fort Isabel', at the head of the Gulf of Calitornia, where it is taken- up by the small steamers aud carried to its different points ef desti- nation. Between Colville and Salt Lake is a good waggon road, along which there are no less than fbrty^ two thriving townrand villagn. Nev York Journal of Gommeree, April a4tb, 1€G7'. 144 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. said to be the highest in Lower Culifornia. It is nearly white on the top and jagged in appearance. conaae Rook bears N.E. by E. from point San Felipe, distant 19 miles. It is small, 286 feet high and nearly white, and is sometimes called Ship rock from its resemblance to a ship under saih There are several rocks extending nearly half a mile from it in a south-westerly direction. The coast from point San Felipe to abreast the island of San Luis, in lat. 29° 58', trends about S.S.E. ^ E., and is low and sandy the whole distance, the coast-range rising to a height of several htindred feet a few miles in the interior. The water is shoal, there being from 12 to 15 fathoms 5 ur 6 miles from the shore. Ban ZMi» Island, distant about 2^ miles from the coast, which is here low and sandy, is of volcanic origin. Its highesf peak is 729 feet. A sand spit extends nearly a mile from the southern end of the island, leaving a safe passage of a mile and a half between it and the mainland. Good anchorage for either of the prevailing winds may be found here; on the southern side of the sand-spit for a north-west wind, and on the northern side for a south-east wind. About 2 cables from the northern end of Sa'n Luis, and connected with it by a reef covered at high water, is the high rocky islet of Cantada. There are several rocks covered at high water in this vicinity. To the north-westward of these are three small islets, 800 to 600 feet high, lying parallel to the coast and distant from it about 3 or 4 miles. Btta ZiTti# Ooniaies Bay/ to the southward of ^n Lais island, affords good anchorage during south-east winds but is open to northerly winds. Its eastern limit is formed by Final point, from which San Luis island bears^N.W. distant 12 miles. From point Final to point Eemedlos, in about lat. 29* 15', the trend of the coast is S.E. by E. i E. and the distance about 46 miles. All this part of the coast is high, rocky, and precipitous, affording uo shelter or anchorage the entire distance. Remedies point is low and sandy,' with tbtj high coast range a short distance back. ANOBi. DB X.& OVABDIA. — Off this puit of the coast is the great island of Ange- les, or Angel de la Guardia. It extends 40 miles parallel with the coast, and is high, rocky, and perfectly barren. The whole western side is inaccessible and without anchorage ; but on the eastern side there are several open bays where anchorage may be found in north-west winds. Off its northern end are several small islands, the largest of which is known as Mejia island. The channel between Augeles island and the mainland is known as Ballenas, or Whale channel. The tide seta through here at times with great force. A current of at least 3 knots per hour has been experienced. rnerto Befagio. — Between Angeles and Mojiu islands is a fine harbour called Puerto Refugio, in which vessels may anchor, sheltered from every wind. AboUt 1} miles south-westward of the entrance to this harbour is a remarkable white rock l')7 feet high, known as the Sail rock. To enter the harbour from the westward it is nt essary to pass to the northward of Sail rock, as there are several dangerous rocks, c )veTed and awash at high water, bearing N.E. by E., distant rather more than a mile from Sail rock, and 4 cables from the shore. There are also rocks lying off the southern extremity of Mejia island, about a cable from the cliffs. ANGELES AND SAN RAFAEL BAYS. U6 The approximate geographical position of the south-east point of Mejia island is lat. 29' 33' 7", long. 113° 82'.* B«in«dle« Bay, southward of Rcmedios point, affords shelter during north-west winds. The best anchorage is in 10 fathoms a third of a mile from the beach, off a red hill 200 feet high. AasaUs Bay, 22 miles S.E. from Remcdius point, is about 6 miles wide at the entrance and 4 to 5 miles deep. It is fronted by no less than fifteen islets, the largest of which, Smith island,is nearly 4 miles in length and one mile in width. This island ia high, flat-topped, its greatest altitude being 15r>0feet. To enter Angeles bay from northward, follow the coast, passing between it and Smith island, keeping about a mile from the shore, until the ^priug is opened, to the southward of the sand-spit mentioned below. To enter the baj from southward, it is better to follow the coast, passing in between the first island oia the mainland. On the western side of the bay is a small cove formed by a Sand-spit extending to southward and eastward. Here excellent anchorage may be found, in 7 or 8 fathoms water, sheltered from all winds. Spring tides riso about 12 feet in this bay. Fresh-water may be obtained from the springs near the anchorage. These springs are at the foot of a high round-topped mountain, 3420 feet in height, and are marked by reeds and bushes in their vicinity. x>aa Animas Bay,' {be next bay to the south-eastward, is about 6 miles deep, and affords good anchorage for either of the prevailing winds. Its entrance lies between two headlands, the eastern of which is known as cape Las Animas. Three miles southward of this last-named cape are two dangerous rocks known as Barnabe rocks. They are rather more than half a mile from the shore, and have but 2 feet on them at low water. There is a tolerable anchorage southward of the reef which unites them to the shore. San Bafael Bay.' — From cape Las Animas the coast trends southerly about 20 miles and then curves to the eastward, forming the open bay of San Rafael. The eastern termination of this bay is point San Francisquito, which is low and rocky. San aabrtal Point, aibout 4 miles eastward of point Francisquito, is low, with high volcanic hills just behind it. It is distant 30 miles S.E. i E. from cape Las Animas. Immediately to the westward of San Gabriel point is the fine bay of San Francisquito, in which a vessel may find shelter from either north-west or southeast winds. Islands of Ban Lorenzo, Eateban, &c. — Off the part of the coast just described lie the islands of San Lorenzo, Sal-si-puciles, Isla Raza, and Ishi Partida. The passage between these islands and the mainland is known us the Sul-si-puedes channel. San Lorenzo, the southernmost and largest of these islands, extends 12 miles W.N.W. and E. S.E. It is between 1^ ""ni San Gabriel point. It is a barren triangular rock less than 2 miles m extent, the highest part having an altitude of 1052 feet. There are three small iskta off its southern ond, the smallest being half a mile distant. The coast, from San Gabriel point to capo San Miguel, in lat. 28° 12', « distance of 1'1;| miles, is gouerally low, being formed of low bluffs and sand-boaches, the ecK.si rMgo being a short distance inland. A inilo to the southward of San (iabriol point is tbe small open bay known as Santa Teresa bay, v.hore oxoellcnt anchorage iu north west winds may be found in 7 or R fathoms a third of a mile from tbe beach. c»v« San mxisuai is a bold rocky blulf, iT-i feet high, with several ontlying rock? a she L distance eastward of it. Southward o*. this ciipo is an o.xcelJent anchorage iu north-westerly winds, iu 7 or 8 fathoms, half a mile fioiii tho small sand-beach, a milo inside tho cape. Trintdad Point, about 21 miles S. by E, ;'; E. fronj capo San JMigiiel, is a moder- ately lugli blulV, with a hill 137 feet high just behind it. Close to tho uorthwiwd of this point is tho open bay of Sati Carlos, on the novlhern side of which is San Curios point. This latter point is low, with a small open buy northward of it, known aa San Jaan Bautista bay. Onv virfsenea, 200 feot high, is distant about 27 miles 'A.iL b' T. J E. from Trinidad point. Tho intervening coast is low, the mouutain-range be .■,• several miles in tlie interior. About 11 miles westward from capo Virgenes is Santa Anna poiut, b(«youd which is an open bay of the uauic name, where shelter may be found iu a uuuUi- I: ' SAX MABCOS ISLAND, PURGATORIO, Ac. 147 east wind. A suiiiU fiosli-wuter creek eiuptios into the sea hero; it may be recognised by the grass and trees on its banks. From 12 to 11 miles inland iiro tlie three remarkablo mountains known as Las Tres Virgcnes, the highest having an altitiido of (')517 foot, lietwcon the Yirgcnos and tho coast is Santa Miina mountain, iJiOi? loot high. From caie Yirgenes the coast trends south-easterly to abreast San Marcos island and then curvt's to the eastward, ter.i'nating in point Chivato, in lat. '27" 5', San ns.ircod Island lios 2.1 to li.,;lesolV this part of tho coast, its contro being in about lit. 27° I'd', long. 112" 2'. It is about j") miles long, nearly parallel with tho coast, and is from 1 to 2.^ miles wide. The highest peak has an altitude of 891 feet. Lobos rock, 20 iwi high, lies half a mile ofl' the south end of tho ishiiid, and a reef, with one fathom water on it, extends a mile farther to tho southward, leaving a clear and safe channel of 5 and G fathoms, about a mile wide, between the island and tho mainland. llucks above water extuud about a mile northward from the north end of the island. Tliere is exfellont anchorage for small vessels under tho south end of San Marcos island. Fresli- water may be obtained. ,\n excellent quality of gypsum is found hero in large (piaiititios. In the vicinity of San Marcos i-;lanil is a pearl fishery which in former times was fished with eoiisiilerablo success, ()p^)^lsi^o the island, or in the vicinity of cape Sau ]\r,ircos (wliicli capo is in latitude about 27 28 j, and at tho distance of two leagues trom the co.ist, are what reumins of the mission of San Ignatio, establiuhed in the year 172,->. Ban Lucaa Covo. — The entrance to San Lucas cove lies nearly n)iles W. by S. from tlie northern end of Sau Marcos island. It aftbrds excellent anchorage in all winds for vessels di'awing 7 or H feet. Tortuga iMand.— About 11 miles N.E. by N. from the north end of Kan Marcos island, is the highest peak of Tortuga. This island is about 2 miles long, oast aud west, and its highest peak is 1210 feet. Santa Aguoda Toint lies N.W. by W. i W. H miles from the north end of San Marcos island. It is low, with a small lock 10 feel above water, lying half a niilo northward of it. Santa Maria covo is distant about 10} mih:s N'.W. { N. from this point. There aro several canons along the coast, known as I'rovidencia, Purgatorio, Solo- dad, and Santa Uosalia, and extensive copper-mines at each one a few miles from tho coast. Sandi Maria cove all'ords shelter "n nortli-west winds, but is open to tin; south- easters. jPur;iatorlo.--This (loit is in hit. 27" 2!C, and is disiiuil about 20 miles S.W. by W. from Tortuga island. It is an open roadstead, and in winter, which is tho best season to visit it, vessels anchor in about fathoms water, bottom of conrso sand. Thero nro no inhabilants, the port being sinijly a depot for the copper (uo which is extracted in great abundanci from tho copper mines already alluded to. Water is tho only commoility obtainable here, but it is necessary to search for it about milea in the m lulurior. l2 I u» GULF OF CALIFORNIA. Santa ln«z Point, 2 miles southward of Chivato point, is like the latter low and sandy. About 2 miles distant from it i.s the largest of a small gi'oup called the Santa Inez ialandg. These islands extend about 2 miles, nearly north and south. They are Burrounded by shoals and sunken rocks, leaving a narrow but safe pasiage between them and Santa Inez point, where a ship may anchor and find sheltor in north-west winds. Southward of this group of islands is the bay of Santa Inez. KUXiEOB or coivcxiFCXOXV BAT. — The entrance to this extensive bay, in about lat. 26° 53', long. Ill" 50', is between Gallita and Concepcion points, and is rather less than 2 miles in width; it faces the north. In nearly midway of the entrance points are some rocks with deep water close to them ; on account of which care is required when running in. The bay extends south-east about 22 miles and varies in width from 2 to G miles. There are numerous smuU islands scattered over its surface, and several small harbours where vessels may anchor sheltered from every wiiul. Near the bottom of the bay, on the west side, is a remarkable well of fresh-water, which rises and falls with the tide. »Kuiese. — The anchorage off Mulege is about 10 miles southward from Santa Inez point, and as little to the northward of Sombrcrito rock ; it is in 9 or 10 fathoms, half a mile from tli« beach. Sonibrerito rock, which is 119 feet high, is at the northern entrance of the smnll Rio Santa Rosalia, on the banks of which, 2 miles from the sea, is the village of Mulege. Behind Sombrerito a short distance is a high hill of a reddish colour, known as Colorado mountain, 880 feet high. The entrance to the river is narrow and shallow, with several rocks in the channel covered at high water. There are never more than 9 feet at the mouth at high water. The tide rises 5 feet. In standing in for the anc'.orago off Mulege, do not bring Sombrerito to the west- ward of S.W., as there is much foul gi'ouud between that rock and Gallita point. Mulege contains from 800 to 1000 inhabitants. Wood, water, and excrllont fresh beef may bo obtained at all times, and several varieties of vegetables and fruits in their season. There are several fine pirdena on the bat'ks of the river, and a (^eat deal of enterprise is shown by the inhabitants. In reference to Santa Rosalii do Mulogo, Lieutenant Hardy R.N., 182G, says :— " Being abreast Sombrerito, with the wind easterly, we bore up, and stood directly for the coast, with our bond about a quarter of a point to the southward of that hill, in order to avoid a reef of rocks that riniH off from it for some distance. When within 150 yards from the shore, Stmibrerito then bearing oil' us N.N.W., and being in-shoro of the roof, we hauled up, and stood for the centre of the hill, till within H5 yards of it, when we dropped our anclmr, and run out warps to the shore on both sides of u«, to prevent the vessel from cither drifting or swinging, for which there ia no room. The water on the bar is so shallow, that wo touched twice in going over it ; but as it was composed of only soft sand, the vessel received no injury, although it blew fresh from the eastward, with a heavy swell on the shore. In the situation where wo ultimntoly moored, there are 3 fathoms close by the hill, and it is well sholterod from wind and sea. * ► MULEOE OR CONCEPCION BAY. 149 There is a small rivulet here, extending above the mission, wliich is at the distance of 2 leagues from the coast. From the sea, the hill of Sombrerito hides all appearance of the ravine ; but from the shore, the date, olive, and peach-trees, as well as planta- tions of vines and maize, present a cheerful show of verdure by no means common in Lower California. About the distance of a league frouj the mouth of the rivulet, tho water is fresh, aud I took advantage of it to refill our empty casks."* The mission of Santa Rosalia de ilulogo was established in tho year 1700 by the Marquis do Villa Puente, as it is supposed, and its distance from Loreto is about 45 leagues. It produces wine, spirits, and soap, which are exported chiefly from tho capital ; besides grapes, dates, figs, and olives, all of good quality. These form the principal branches of its commerce. About G or 8 leagues from Mulege, at some distance from tho shore side, is the mission of La Madalena, established about tho same period as tho former ; but by whom is not known. Its productions are tho same as those of Mulege ; but tho quality of the spirits which are made from the mczcal, growing wild about tho moun- tains in its neigh'^ourhood, is said to be tho best of any made in Lower California. Ita population is about equal to that of Loreto. From Concepcion point to Santa Teresa point the trend of tho coast is about S.E. by E. 20 miles. The latter point is low and rocky, with many outlying rocks in its vicinity. Thence to Pu.'pito point tho coast trends south-easterly for 12 miles and forms a large open bay, known as San Nicolas bay. The land about this bay is low, the coast range being farther inland tliau to the southward. Abreast this bay and distant 6 miles N. by W. from Pulpito point is the small islaud of llilu/oiiso, 887 feet high, a mere barren rock. Fuipito PC .nt, so called fruni its imagined resemblance to a pulpit, is a bold headland 470 feet high, aud when first seen from the southward appears like an island, the land connecting with the coast-range being low. To tho southward of this point is an ex- cellent anchorage, in 5 or fathoms, half a mile from the beach, where a ship is well sheltered from north-west winds. Mangle Point, about 15 miles S.S.E. } E. from Pulpito point, is a moderately high bluff, with dill's of variegated colour, 200 to SOO feet higli, to tho northward. Between these two hcadlauds are several bays, the largest of which is San Basilio, a few miles to • It appears from the fullowiiiR that laeut. Iliirdy oximricncf-il aoiiio difflciiUy in loaviiiR tlio liarbour of tl)c mission of Mulrnc " Not Imvi' ;; hccii ciiciu'ssfijl in my siurci'i fordivors, I dctt-rmiuoil to prococil to Hra. Tlio wiinl wan Rtill di 'nl itpon tlio alioro ; niiil iisi it wiis not poHHibIn to attempt taking tlio vcsatil out tlii'uiigli tliu channel. wiMioiit lur hning iui;vitahly drivtm ou to the boach, I Rent tiio biiRl alioad with a rope, and we tol fiiirly outride of them, we eliippnd on Hail, shaped our coiirBe Blunt;; "hare, nud in two hour* time went tlirongh tlio pintitage formed on the left by tiiu low point of Santa Inez, and on the ri^fht by the iuiand iiiimi'd ufter the finnic saiiil, carrying 4 and .'> fathoniR water, llitving iloiiblid the point, we c.inio to imohor oii tlie south- weHl hide of tho iHiand of Han MarooH, roniid wiucli I hred been given to undoiBtiitid I'eiuls had been formerly lidiud, We found, however, only a few unproductive sliellH. ()u thiH inlantl Ihuru are uumberK of wild goata, and 1 aout thn captain and a park of the crew to hunt them." This part of tho Uulf of California Ih bo rarely visitod Hint it i.^ but littlo known. 150 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. ill ii ■ ft* the southward of Pulpito point, and Lstween it and Basilio point. About '^ miles northward of Mangle point is Mcrcenarios point, a rocky cliff of dark sandstonn, sur- mounted by a red cone, 519 foet high. Above this latter point the coast recedes, forming, with Basilio point, a small open bay known as San Juanico cove. There are several rocks above and under water in .liis bay, and it should be used with great caution. San Basilio point is a low rocky cliff, about 50 feet high, formed of red sandstone. To the southward of Mangle point is a good anchorage in a north-west wind. The only dangers to be apprehended are some low rocks, 2 feet above higii water, at about 2 miles south-east from the point. In standing in for this anchor:igo, it is better to pass close to the point, whore is plenty of water and no hidden danger. coronados Island, tlie centre of wliich bears S.E. g S., distant 10 miles, from Mangle point, is of small extent, rising to an altitude of 928 feet. A low sand-spit extends off sotno distance from its south-west side, leaving but a narrow clianuel between the island and the mainland. It is only safe for small vessels. Northward of this sand-spit is an excellent anchorage in a south-easter. The shore between Mangle point and Coronados island is bold, and immediately behiml it the land is 1500 to 2000 feet high. Xioreto. — This is a small villiige situated iu about lat. '20"; it is distant 5 or miles southward from Coronados island. Above Loreto tho coast sweeps to tho northward and eastward 31 miles to!the low sandy point of Terra Firma. In this bay tlun-e is an excellent anchorage sheltered from every wind except from the northward and eastward. In good weather tho best anchorage is off Loreto, in 8 or 9 fathoms, half a mile from the beach. In standing in from the N.E. bring the church and Sugar Loaf peak in range, and anchor as directed above. Loreto contains about 150 inhabitants. There are two or throe line gardens, where oranges, iigs, '.iates, &c., and in their season, vegetables, arc raised. Fresh beef, wood and water may be obtained at all seasons. (1871). In former days Lor( to wiis n place of considi;! iili)(! ti iul(s luit tliis wiis many years ngo ; it is now in a state of decay. It was founded in tli'> year lODH by i>()ii Juan Caballero y Osis, who wrote a long iiceount of it, and eiuisiilcred its lo<'iility us one of groat importance, and 8ulisr(|uciitly it bocaiiK! the eiipital of Lower ("aiii'iiniia. The ftuchoiago is open to winds from North, N.!'".. and S.I''.., and when these prevail with any fitrongtli, so heavy a sea is sent in, that it is lemlered by no nuinis snle lor a vessel not well founl in ground tackle. Carmen island affords h1u'II( r IVom i asiwiud, and tho mainland from westward. Tho following description of Tioreto wus writlcn in 1820 by Lieutennnt Jlurdy, B.N. : — " Loreto stands in a valloy of about 2000 or liOOO feet wide, surrounded by wild and sterile mountains, of which tliat called Laltiganta is the highest and least piclnresquo.* There are two gardens in the place in wliicli the vine, p('ach, fig. i|;iiini'e and dgt* * 'I'liis iiKiinilniii iH CRUnintfid to 1 e ")"'.»( IVct liinli. ll in oi volcuiiic oiigiii, iis is all tlic rtst ot tlio uliiiiii wliicli I'liiiH tlii'«)iiKli tliu Ciilil'urniiiii lu'iiiiisula. amuHH 1 -mfim i Fact pc^* 161 ^ -^1 I CiVRMEN ISLAND. 151 I « \ I are cnltivaleil. A. considerablo quantity of wine is annually inado, noiwitlistnndingtlio fruit is conimou property to all the inhabitants. Peaches uuJ pears are ilr.'ed us well as figs ; the dates are preserved ; and these fruits are afterwards exchanged for wlioat and Indian corn, brought to the mission iu small schooners from the port of Guayniiis. The hills whicb surround the town are chiefly composed of primitive roclv, granite, and hard sand-stone, all iutcrmiuglcd, witli scnrculy any appearance of soil upon them. They are thus capable of absorbing but little mi»isture ; and during the heavy rains, which happily do not occur more frequently than ouce in 5 or G years, the rush of water through every part of the town, as it comes down the ravine, is so great, that instances have been known of some of the houses having been actually carried away. Although the natives arc perfectly sensible of thuir perilous situation in cousequcnco of these floods, the love of their dwellings is so great as to extinguish all fear for tho future, and all desire to change their resideuce. The inhabitants of Loreto are of a dingy, opaque, olive-green, which shows that there is no friendly mixture in the blood of tho Ri)aniard and the Indian ; or it may bo that by degrees they are returning to the colour of the aborigines. They appear to bo, the same squalid, flabby, mixed race, which is observed in almost every part of tho Mexican coasts." Pnnta Coyote, about 11 miles southward from Loreto village, forms the eastern side of a small bay, known as Puerto Escondido, a perfectly secure harbour for small vessels in all weathers. Just above Punta Coyote is another small bay, named Chuenque. From Punta Coyote the coast trends easterly and forms an open bay in which there are many rocks above and under water. Off the easternmost point of this bay several detached rocks lie to the northward and westward. Eastward of this bay is a pro- mineut point, off which are several detached rocks lying to the northward and westward ; three of these, 70 to 80 feet high, and pinnacle-shaped, are known as Los Candeloros. OARmEN I8LAIVD. — About 4 miles eastward of Punta Coyote is the southern extremity of Carmou island, situated in about lat. 25° 47' BO". This island is 10 miles iu length N.N.E. and S.S.W., and its breadth gradually increases until it becouics 5J~ milos wide near its northern end. It is of volcanic origin and bus a range of peaks its onliio length, from 100 to 1500 feet Iiigh. Its shores are steep, there being a depth of 7 to 10 fathoms at a very moderate otling, wliich increases to -10 fa- thoms at i.OdUt a mile from the cliff-;. Saltnaa nay, on the eastern sido of C^ai'iU.Mi island, near its nortliern end, is a fine har- bour, in wliicli proti'<'ti(»n may lio (il)lained in nil winds except tlioso from the south-east. Tho best anchorage is in 5 (tr fathonis, ouij mile south of tho white house with a cupola, at tho heail of the bay. A salt-mino is situated at tho head and about half a mile from the beach. The goographical position of tlie head of this bay, according to the Admiiiilly chart No. 2'Z\H (lH7i»), is lat. t>iV 59' Jit", long. 111° 4'. Mok. point, known also as i'untii, do Perico from its supposinl resemblance to a parrot's beak, tornis the eastern limit of the bay ; it is a sliarji, rocky cliff, surmounted by a peak of reddish colour, 400 f(!<'t high; close to the ptinl is around detached rock, southward of which, distant one cable, lies a dangerous sunken Vock, , x.obos point, the northern extreme of Carmen ihland, is a niodcnitely high rocky point Burroundi'd by dolachod rocks. 152 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. Between Lobos and Tintorera points is a small open bay known as Paerto de la Lancha, in which protection may bo obtained from southerly winds. A small low sand islet, named Cholla, lies off the north-western end of Carmen island and near to it. Southward of this islet is a small bay known as Puerto Ballandra. Sanzante Island. — About midway between the south end of Carmen island and the mainland is the islanl of Danzante. It is 3^^ miles long, nearly parallel with the coast ; in form it is slightly crescont-shaped, very narrow, and 100 to 450 feet in height. There is a clear passage nearly a mile wide between it and Carmen island. San axarelai Point, g. moderately high rocky cliff, surmounted by a peak 600 feet high, is distant about 25 miles S.E. ^ E. from Pjinta Coyote. The interyening coast is of the same general character as that to the southward, rising rapidly from the sea to a height of 100.0 to 2000 feet. San Marcial rock lies about one railo N. by E. from San Marclal point, and is sur- rounded by reefs and shoals ; it is of small extent and 25 feet high. There is a boat- passage between it and the point. Three miles r tward of San Marcial point is the small bay of Agua Verde. There is good anchorage here in ordinary weather, and fresh-water may be obtained from the rancho near the beach. Distant 3^ miles above this ii San Cosme point, a rocky cliff about 225 feet high. The small rocks San Cosmo and San Damien, the former 75 feet high and the latter 45 feet, lie about a mile to the northward of San Cosme point. About 7f miles N.N.W. i W. from San Cosme point is a small white rock, 30 feet high, lying about 8 miles from the mainland. Southward of San Marcial point is the small bay of San Marte, where a vessel may find anchojage in good weather. There are 10 to 12 fathoms water within a third of a mile from the small sand-beach at the bottom of the bay. A dangerous reef extends off about a mile south-east of the point, on which the sea breaks in nearly all weathers. Santa Oatalina Island. — The south end of Santa Catalina island bears N.E. by E. i E. about 15 miles from San Marcial point. It is between 7 and 8 miles long, north and south, and from GOO to 1500 feet high. The approximate gQographical position of its north extremity is hit. 2')° 42', long. 110° 44'. Montserrate Island. — The south end of Montscrrate island bears N.byW. J\V. 8 miles from point San Marcial, and about the same distance from the mainland. It is about 4 miles long, parallel with the coast, and 1 or 2 miles wide. It is 200 to 700 feet high and presents a more inviting appearance than Santa Catalina. It is, however, like all the other islands hereabout, of volcanic origin and perfectly barren. Three miles north of the island arc two low rocky islets, known as Las Galeras, northward of which is a dangerous rock only one foot above high water. From San Marcial point the coast trends S.E. J S. 38 milps to Nopolo point, abreast which, distant 2i| miles, is the northern extremity of San Josef island. About midway between the above points, in lat. 25" 1(5,J ' ('? 14'), is an isolated rock, 55 feet high, about amileoff the shore, known as Black rock. Other rocks lie off the coast to the southward of the lllack rock ; one of those, the Habana, DO feet high, is situated in lat. 25" 7'. Hopolo Point is a rocky cliff with a rugged peak 1G50 feet high immediately behind r h ■l^'MWfrAl&BJ^fWMiil HAN JOSEF ISLAND. 153 r h it. From this point to San Evaristo point, a distance of Gj milns S.E. J E., tho luiul is high and precipitous. About 2 miles southward of San Evoristo point, a low sandy point makes out, south- ward of which is good anchorage in 5 or 6 fathoms, half a mile from tho beach. BXaetando Head, 12 miles S.E. by S. from San Everisto point, is a bold perpendicular cliflf of variegated colour,about 200 feet high, surmounted by a dome-shaped hill 750 feet in height. Behind this hill, and a short distance inland, is mount Mechudo 3000 feet in height, and the highest land in this vicinity. . SAir JOBEF ISX.AND. — The south end of San Josef island bears N.E. ^ E. about 6 miles from Mechudo head. It extends nearly 18 miles nearly parallel with the coast, N.W. i W. and S.E. i E., and is from 2 to G miles wide, the northern end being narrowest and terminating in a narrow, sharp point. It is rather higher than Espiritu Santo, several of its peaks having an altitude of over 2000 feet, and is of volcanic origin. It is separated from the mainland by a deep channel 3 to 5 miles wide, except abi'east of Nopolo point, where it is 2J miles in width. Here, a low sand spit makes oflf fi'om the island toward Nopolo point. Amortajada Bay. — There is a good anchorage in Amortajada bay, on the south-we§t side of San Josef island, in 7 or 8 fathoms, where a ship is sheltered from every wind, particularly the dreaded " cordonazos " or south-easterly gales. In the centre of the bay, about 1^ miles off the entrance of San Jose river, is an islet, named Caijo, with a dangerous reef extending off its northern extremity about a quarter of a mile. Fresh- water may be obtained here. The position of the north-west point of tho bay is lat, M" 54' 80", long. 110° 85' 40". (See the Admiralty Chart No. 2248, edition 1879), San Francisco Island. — Several rocks and islets lie off the south-western end of San Josef island, the largest of which, San Francisco, lies nearly 2 miles south of it, This is 600 feet high, nearly 2 miles long, and about one mile wide. The passage between it and San Josef is dangerous, as it contains many rocks above and under water. There are two dangerous rocks, about 5 feet high, known as Seal rocks, lying off San Francisco islet, about 3^ miles from tho mainland, with the following bearings : — - north-western end of San Francisco, East nearly 2 miles ; Salinas point, N.W. by N, 5^ miles. In using tho channel between San Josef island and the mainland at night or in thick weather it is better to keep the mainland close aboard, as there are no known dangers on that side. i.aa Animas. — About 9 miles E. by N. ^ N. from tho north end of San Josef island are tho rocky islets of Las Animas, about 90 feet in height. Thcro is a deep passage between them and San Josef. Ban siego Island lies N. J W. 5^ miles from the north end of San Josef. It is nearly a mile long, N.E. and S.W., and its highest point is 722 feet. A reef makes off about a mile from its south-western point, ending in a small rock awash. There is another reef Ij miles south of tho highest peak, witli from 4 to 5 fathoms on it. A reef also makes off about half a mile from tho northern end of San Josef, leaving a clear passage, about Smiles wide, between that island and San Diego ; but it should bo used with caution, as there may be other rocks in it which tho surveyors were unable to find, Santa Cruz Island lies 4^^ miles N. by W. from San Diego island. It is about I IH GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 8 miles long north and Roath, and about 2 miles wide. It is 1500 feet high, and extremely barren and rocky. ESFiniTTT BANTO ISI..^ND, about 20 miles S.E. by S. from the south end of San Josef island, lies in the entrance to the bay of La Puz, and is separated from the mainland by San Lorenzo channel, which is 3.i miles wide. The island is 9 miles long, N.N.W. and S.S.E., and from 2 to 1 miles wide. It is of volcanic origin, and from 200 to 1200 feet high. A remarkable red cone, 197 feet high, near the south-western end (Dis- pensa point) of the island, is an excellent laud-mark in navigating San Lorenzo channel. The approximate geographical position of Lupona point, the southernmost point of Espiritu Santo, according to the Admiralty Chart No. 2248, edition 1879, is lat. 24° 24' 13", long. 110" 17'. Several detached rocks and islets Ho off the western side of Espiritu Santo island, the largest of which, Ballena (or Gallo), is about a mile northward of Balleua bay. There are also two or three off the northern end of the island, known as Los Islotes. At the south-west end of Espiritu Santo island there is a little bay named San Gabriel, in which vessels may anchor in about 10 fathoms, and obtain shelter from northerly and easterly winds, but they must not go fixr in because the depth suddenly decreases to 8^ and 2 fathoms, whence to the shore it is very shallow. In the middle of this shallow part there is a ledge of rocks, which extends out 4 cables from the beach. The western limit of the bay is known as Piieta point. At about a mile northward of Gabriel bay, and cfu the same side (the west) of Espiritu Santo island, is an anchorage in what is known as port iJallena. It consists of an open bay fronted by two small islets, named Gallo and Gallina, of which the first men- tioned is the largest and most northward. The auchorago is at about midway between the islets in 5 i to G fathoms, and shelter is afforded against eastcrl}' winds. £an Lorenzo cbannel. — The channel south-westward of Espiritu Santo island, between it and San Lorenzo point, is 8 J miles wide and has a depth of 5 to 8 fathoms, the depth of 5 fathoms being on a bar which connects the island to tho shore. Upon this bar is a reef of 12 foot (in some few spots less than 7 feci) water, situated in nearly mid-channel, but nearer the island thiiu the shore, known as San Lorenzo reef. About half a mile north-east of the latter are the Suwanee rocks with 9 feet water over them. Shoals also extend off the southern shore of the channel, the outermost of these was discovered by the officers of H. M.S. Snuil in 1808. Tliis rocky patch has a depth of 9 to 12 feet water over it, is distant nearly lA miles from the south-cast shore of the channel, and discoloured water was oljscrved to extend soiue distance northward from it allhougli a depth of not less than 0! fathoms was obtaini^d. From it, the centre of n gap next southward of the highest peaks of Ceralbo island bore E, by !^. : tho eastern extreme of Espiritu Santo N. \ E. ; North rock (breakers N. tJ E. ; and the highest land on the California shore just open north-eastward of tho redmound on Dispenaa point, the southern end cf Espiritu Santo. Tlieso bcariiij^'s place it N.W. ^ N. 1 1 miles from Arranco Cabella point, N. by E. j E. 21 miles from San Lorenzo point. Scout shoal is guarded by a buoy on its northern edge. This channel should be used with great caution, as other dangers may exist, its hydrography being buji imperfectly known. It is liigh water on the days of full and change of the moon at Hh. ;}()ni. ; s))iings rise feet. ftux otuff L'*'t 5 1 ] I LONDON, .liimos hurav i' Son T^ ^t*.^.'^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // <, a 1.0 I.I 1-25 1.4 j 1.6 < 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTIR.N.Y. MSIO (716) S72-4S03 T 4is -^^Vqp^pii^^M^wW* LA PAZ BA^. 155 Directions, — Toenter the channel from the southward and eastward , stcor W.X.W. ^VV. for the red mound on Espiritu Santo inland, giving Coyoto point a berth of halt' a mile. When Lohos point bears N. by W. and San Lorenzo point S.W. by S. stocr W. by S. until you open Lobos rocks beyond Diablo point ; then the red nioiuid will bear N.W. i W. and you will be clear of all dangers. There .'s another channel with 4 fathoms water near Espiritn Santo island, between it and San Lorenzo reef. Arranco Cabello point is low and sandy, sloping back gradually to mountains 1000 feet high. San Lorenzo and Diablo points are moderately high blutl's. XiA FAZ BAV. — The bay of Ija Paz, the largest on tiie eastern side of Lower California, is nearly 40 miles deep and 16 to 20 miles wide. The western side, from Mechudo head to the bottom of the bay, presents a bold shore with precipitous cliffs or high mountain-slopes, affording no anchorage or shelter for ships ; thence IG miles to El Mogote point, the coast is low and sandy, with shoal water making off one or two miles. At about 5 miles within the bay on its east side is the harbour of Pichilinque ; and farther on, near its head, is the harbour of La Piu,.* A pilot's assistance should bo obtained to enter either of these harbours. Plohlllnquo Barbonr. — The entrance to Pichilinque harbour lies about 4 miles south of Diablo point. Colorado point, to the southward of the entrance, is low and of a I'ed colour. Pichilinque harbour, though small, is one of the best on the coast. It is formed by the island of San Juan Nepomezcino, which is about 1^ miles in extent N. by W. and S. by E. and about a quarter of a mile broad. The islaud is distant from the shore only about a third of a mile, but in this space there is a depth of 4^ to 7 fathoms on mud and sand ; hence it forms an excellent harbour, where shelter may bo obtained completely from all winds. The entrance is from southward, because the north end of the island is connected to tlic shore by a shallow flat of less than 10 feet at low water ; in this entrance the depth gradually decreases from 10 to fathoms. Old writers speak of the excellent pearl beds to be found in this harbour. The south end of San Juan Nepomezcino, according to the Admiralty Chart, No. 2248, edition 1871), is in lat. 24" 15' H5", long. 110" 17'. x.a Fas Harbour. — Priota poii't, the entrance to La Paz harbour, lies S.E. by S. 2 miles from Colorado point. It is a sharp perpehdicular bluff, about 50 feet liigli, the land sloping back gradually from it. lia Paz is situated about .'hniles southward of Prieta point. The harbour of La Paz is formed by a projecting point of low marshy land, known as El Moffote, from which a slioal of only B to 4 feet water, extends about 2)t miles in a north-easterly direction, or nearly to Prieta point, the north point ()f the harbour; the channel in is, consequently, dose under that point. A ship drawing 10 or 17 feet may enter at any state of the tide, but should take a pilot, as tiio channel is narrow and tortuous. The bar has upon it a depth at \>,\ fathoms at low water, and innnrdiately outside it are souiulings of 5, and 7 fathoms at the some period of tide. The harbour • Liratfniiiit R. Odborn, R.N. Imn nl>s(>rvi>il tlmt a vtssrl iiii\iiiin to korp on tlui oonut of Mexico, or its nci^'liliourliixul, iluring tlin bnd nciiitnii, cnniiot dn l» tier lliiiii run over to tlio b»y of Ija Par. ; he ipenki of it on a diilcmiid harbour. 1" 150 GULP OF CALIFORNIA. consists of a narrow channel of 8| to 4 and Bi fathoms, between the shoal jast referred to and the eastern shore, and vessels at anchor off the town are sheltered by the shoal from seas sent in by north-westerly winds. The best anchorage is half a mile to the southward of the wharf in B.J fathoms water. The depth in the channel-way opposite the town is 8^ to 4^ fathoms. The geographical position of La Paz, according to Com. Dewey, U.S.N., 1874, is lat. 24" 10' 9", long. 110" 10' 58". The harbour is protected on its western side, as already observed, by a low marshy peninsula called El Mogote. There is a boat pansage to the bay near Mogote. La Paz is the seat of the territorial government of Lower California, and contains about 2000 inhabitants. The climate is said to be healthy. Supplies of various kinds, such as fresh beef, bread, wood, and water may be obtained in small quantities, but they are very dear. Coyote Folnt, the south point of the entrance to San Lorenzo channel, is moderately low, with a small out-lying white rock a few feet from it. About 16 miles S.E. by E. f E. from this point is Gorda point, a bold rocky bluff with high land behind it. Between these points the coast is bold and rocky, with occasional sand-beaches, the country at the back being broken and mountainous. In some parts sunken rocks lie close off the shore, v«nt«n» Bay. — From point Gorda to point Arena de la Ventana, a distance of 12 miles E.S.E., the coast recedes, forming the largo open bay of Ceralbo, about 5 miles deep in its deepest part ; it is called by the natives Ventana. To the southward of the bay lies an extensive plain covered with cacti and stunted bushes. On the north- western side of the bay, the high coaf^t-hills rise abruptly from the water's edge. Anchorage may be had in any part of the bay near the coast. Ventana, a small settlement, lies about 9 miles to the westward of a low sandy point named Arena de la Ventana, and at tlie bottom of the bay. Fresh-water, cattle, hogs, poultry, &e. may be procured hero. OBKALBO ZBLANB, of volcanic Origin, high and barren, lies off this part of the coast. Its highest peak has an altitude of about 2500 feet. Tho island extends about 14 miles N.W. and S.E., and its greatest widtli is about 4 miles. The geographical position of tho northern extremity of Ceralbo island, according to Com. Dewey, U.S.N. , 1874, is lat. 24° 21' 35", long. 100" 50' 3". There is a fine channel between this island and tlio mainlaud, 5 miles wide at point Arena de la Ventana, and 0^ miles at point Gorda. It is apparently free from al| dangers. Anchorage may bo had on tho south-wost side of tho island to the northward of a »and point. Tho tides set through this clianncl witli considorablo force, at timea 2 knots per hour. Thete is a small dangerous rook (named Hoiil rock), about 12 feot high, 6^ miles N.W. I N. from the northern ond of (Jcnill)o island ; and a nnnkoi) rook, known at Montana, lies about 100 yards south of iU south-oust extremity, with oply 12 feat water on it, volat rorioo, about 8 miles south-eastward from point Arena, is bold and rooky ; the coast between thoso points is low and sandy, broken 'roriueutly hy rooky patchfi 10 to 20 feet high. f1 JIJ Fact poft 1S7. CO en SAN JOSE DEL GABO BAT Nanlic MUe o 1 t > 4 t loOaUu Soundlnrt in Fathoms :.onif.l09'37 52"W: LONUON. Juuti \mytj t i{) is sheltered from northerly winds and nsposcd to those from snutli-onstward, but must be on the north side of the oape ; it is not mentioned on uuy churls uf the coiist we have met with. He says " We ran into the little harbour of capo San Luc:is anchoring in IG fathoms water, within a cable's length of the shore. The harbour is but 2 miles in width, protected from the south-east by a high rocky bluff, but perfectly exposed to the north and west. It is an extremely dangerous anchorage, as a heavy surf is continually rolling in, and no bottom is found at 100 fathoms, till close into the beach." Ban Xineas Bay is on the cast side of the cape ; the anchorage here is very limited, being conQned to the north-western side, f'.d deep water exteuding almost up to the beach. In entering the bay steer about W.N.W. for Ritchie's, a large white house of two stories and the first object seen in making the anchorage. Have the anchor all ready, as the bank is very steep, and come to in 6 or 7 fiv.homs, a third of a mile from the beach. This is an unsafe anchorage in the summer or wet season, as south-easterly gales are both frequent and heavy. Siqyplies. — Excellent fresh beef and vegetables can he obtained here at moderate prices, and there is also an abundance of tolerable fresh-water. The best water is obtained at the wells sunk in the bed of the arroyo, about half a mile from the beach. Wood can also be had. The settlement consists of about a dozen houses, with a population of l.'SO. In reference to the bay of San Lucas Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N. observes " they were nearly making a sad mistake, after shortening sail, by finding after they cast in 10, they had no bottom with 88 fathoms, just as they were about to let go the anchor. This shows the necessity of keeping the lead on the bottom before letting go an anchor. This bay was first named Aguada Segura by the Spaniards, and afterwards altered by Yizcaiuo to that of San Bai'nabe, it being the festival of that saint when this navigator entered it, in IGO'2. It is the same bay in which Cavendish lauded his prisoners, 190 in number, when he anchored there with his prize, the Santa Ana, taken from the king of Spain, in 1587. Some Amei'icans and Californians now reside there, who supply the whalers which annually resort there with water, wood, cattle, vegetables and fruit. The country is mountainous and sterile about the cape, and the supplies are brought from the valley of San Jose, about 20 miles to the northward, which is well cultivated. The water, which is procured from the wells, is sweet when dra\\'n, and is very bright, but is impregnated with muriate of soda and nitre, which pervade the soil. It consequently soon putrifies on board." It has been remarked in Captain Rogers's account of his voyage round the world, in 1710: — "This port is about a league eastward of a round, sandy, bold headland, which some take to be capo Sau Lucas, because it is the southernmost land. The entrance into the bay moy be known by four high rocks, which appear like the Needles at the Isle of Wight (England) when seen from westward. The two westernmost are in the form of sugar loaves, and the innermost of them has an arch, through which the sea makes its way. Leave the outermost rock about a cable's length on the port hand, and steer into the deepest part of the bay, being all bold, where vessels may anchor in from • i 160 GULF OF CALIFORNIA. 10 to 25 fathoms depth. Here you may ride land-Ioeked from all winds, save those between E. by N. and S.E. by S. Yet it would be bnt an ordinary road if the wind should come strong from the sea. The starboard side of the bay is the best anchoring ground, where vessels may ride on a bank that has from 10 to 15 fathoms depth. The rest of this bay is very deep ; and near the rocks on the port side going in there is no ground. This is not a good recruiting place." CA^ SAN LitCAS TO POINT CONCEPCION. Magnetic Variation in 1879; — Off Cape San Lucas 9" i")' E.; at Magdalena Bay 10° 20' E. ; Ballenas Bay 11° E ; SebuKutn Viscaino Bay 12° E. ; Colnett Bay 18° E. ; San Dleyo Bay 14° E. ; Point Concepciuri 14° 60* E. The annual inrreate is estimated to be about 2 minutes. OBHBBAli latnaKAmKBr^llie entire coast of Lower California, from the United States boundary-line to La Paz, with the exc^eption of San Lucas bay and the valleys of Todos Santos and San Jose del Cabo, is barren in the extreme. The land is generally high aind precipitous and its approaches bold. There are many places where a ship may anchor and find protection from the prevailing coast-wind. During the suiilmer months, strong south-east gales of short duration are frequent in the vicinity of cape San Lucas, but they rarely extend so far north as Gedros island. During the months of June, July, August, and September, winds from northward and westward are experienced on the Pacific coast of the peninsula. The nights are ordinarily calm, with heavy dews. The breeze springs up from the westward about 9 a.m., hauling gradually to the northward as the day advances, and attaining its greatest force about 8 p.m. Occasionally there are light southerly winds ; but the pre- vailing winds are from northward and westtrard. Between San Diego and Gedros island, during the month of September, the weather is said to be misty and foggy during the night, cleairing up every morning about 10 a.m., and for the remainder of the day it is clear and pleasant. Southward of Cedros island fog is mucli less frequent, the mornings clearing earlier, the temperature lower, and the winds lighter. The tides are infiuenced by the prevailing wind, and sot from one-quarter to three- quarters of a knot per hour. A strong current has been observed setting to the east- ward aroand cape San Lucas. Til* ooABT. — Cape San Lucas has already been described (see page 158). The coast thence to the westward is a succession of sand -br aches and bold rocky blufis, against which the sea breaks heavily even in the finest weather. About 8 miles west- ward of cape San Lucas is cnpe Falso (or False San Lucas), a rocky blufi*, with many detached ftnd outlying rooks in its vicinity. Here the coast bends round to the north- iweatward and the first point met with is SanCbristobal, distant 7miles N.W. by W. iW. iront oape Falso. I SANTA MARGARITA ISLAND. 161 FelaY BAi Oiurlatobal is a bold rocky blaflf, about 50 feet high, with many outlying rocks around it. About 5 miles northward is the Cerro do las Playas, a conical hill about 500 feet in height. Xik TlnaJA (the pitcL^r) is distant about 10 miles North from point San Christobal. It is' a rocky bldff of moderate elevation, so called because of a cavity or basin on its summit, which, filling with water during thu wet season, affords a watering-place for the cattle of the neighbouring raiicho. San Pedro Point, 80 miles northward of San Christobal point, is the eastern extremitjf of a rocky promontory about 200 feet high, of .u. >'h Lobos point is the western extremity. Th^ intermediate coast consists of a successio. uf sand-beaches and rocky patches (forming slight projections in the coast-line) and is in general low, rising to a height of 600 to 1000 feet a short distance inlanr *hv i^adro is a small settlement, situated on the bay of tliat name, 2 miles fi'om San' Pedro point. Landing is said told practicable here ir or>aaary weather. Seven miles to the southward of Lobos point is the open bay of Pescaderos, having a small fishing village half a mile from the beach. Todoa Bantoa. — Northward of point Lobos, distant about 2 miles, i'^ point La Poza, the end of a table-land extending from the vicinity of point Lobos. It is a peqiendicular bluff p.bout 50 feet high, with numerous outlying rocks. At this point the river Todos Santos empties into' the sea ; it is a small stream flowing the whole year and watering the fertile valley of the sfaiue name. Todos Santos village, containing about 800 inhabitants, is situated about three- quarters of a mile behind the beach. This is an excellent place for a ship to get fresh provisions and water. This Valley is' said to be one of the most fertile on the peninsula, there being an abundance of water for irrigating purposes. The gardens and fields are many acres in extent. Figs, oranges, and sugar-cane are produced, the last being by far the most important,' many thousand pounds of sugar being manufactured every year. About 3 miles northward from point La Poza is a grove of palms situated quite near the beach. Point Bxiurqais, in latitude 28" 56' 30", is low and rocky, forming a sharp projecting point on the coast-line, and is the first rocky formation seen after leaving Rio Todos Santo§.' m con«Jo Point, ih' latitude 24° 'i '. 47 miles N.W. by W. J W. from point Marquis, is'on the eastern side of the bout passage, which leads into Santa Marina bay.' The east extremity of the low sand island, named Cresciente, about 10 miles in extent E.N.E. and W.S.W., forms the western side of this boat passage. El Conejo point is" low and rocky, backed by a dome-shaped mound about 50 feet high. Thfe coast bfets^een Lobos and El Conejo points, is low, sandy, and barren, with table- lands, 100 to 200 feet high, a mile or two back, rising gradually to an altitude of 2000 feet 20' miles iuland. A ship may anchor oft' any part of this coast in fine weather, in 8 ot 10 fathoms, a mile or two from the beach. The soundings are regular, shoaling gradually toward the beach. I'ASOAKXTA zBZiAND. — From Santa Marina point, the south-west end of 162 LOWER CALIFORNIA. Crescieute island, to cape Tosco, the southern extremity of Margarita island, the distance is nearly 4 miles and bearing S.S.W. ^ W. Between these points is a passage into Magdalena bay, named Rehusa channel ; it is, howevor, too shoal and intricate for anything bat boat-navigation. Margarita island is about 20 miles in extent, W.N.W. and E.S.E., and 2 to 4 miles in width ; it is high and barren,, and of volcanic origin. It presents a bold rocky face its entire lenpth, except nliout midway where the Coast falls away somewhat, forming an open h ly called Pequena ; here the land is low and sandy. Mount Maigarita. near the southern end of tLo inlaud, is 2000 feet high. The two remarkable peaks just soutli of Pequena bay, about 1000 feet high, ore known as the Sisters. On the southern end of the island there is a spring of excellent water. Cape ToBco is a bold rocky point, with a reef of rocks extending off S.S.E. about 3 cables, over which the sea breaks constantly. Cape nedondo is a round rocky headlnnd, nearly 100 feet high, the land rising rapidly behind it to a height of 500 or 600 feet. A reef extends off to tbe north- west about 8 cables from the cape. BKAaDAiiBNA BAT. — This extcnsive inlet lies between longitudes 111" 80' and 112° 15'. It is protected from the sea in a south-westerly direction by the large island of Margarita, and has soundings over nearly the whole of its extent of 20 to 10 and 4 fathoms. Its principal entrance is at the west end of this island, through " channel 8 miles broad, and here the width of the bay (from the entrance to the main land opposite it) isabout 12 miles : consequently there is ample room for the accommoda- tion of nlmost any number of vessels. Entrada point, the western point of the entrance, . is a (lomo-sbaped hill about 200 feet high, connected with the mainland by a narrow strip of sand and rock but a few feet above high -water. There are several out- lying rocks from 10 to 12 feet high quite near it, and a reef making off south-east about 3 cables, over which the sea generally breaks. The channel between the reefs ofl" capo llcdondo and Entrada point is at least 2 miles wide aud free from all dangers. I'he tide runs with considerable force through this channel, at the rate of one to two liriots per hour. Capo 8an Lazaro, which may lie considered the north-western bound- arv of the bay, is 1800 feet high. Magdalena bay was surveyed in 18)7 by ('a])tain Du Petit Thonars of the French K.'ivy, uud in 1839 by Captain Sir Edward Helchor, R.N. To the chart of the latter iitifier, published by the Admiralty (No. 1930), we must refer our readers, as a written Ivrription of the bay will necessarily convey a very inadequate idea of the advantages .1 poSKCHSOS. 'I'lie Rlioro on both sides of the bay is lined with rocks, so that it is recommended to ■■■.w]) as near the middle as possible, where will be found 12 to 18 fathoms water, rocky ' "Hum, with shclLs. When within, there is a similar depth on saud and shells. At • ■ head of the bay, iu its north-west corner, are numerous sand-banks having between thoni a channel 5 fathoms deep, which runs up the coast past capo San Lazaro as fur iiorth as lat. 25° 80' or even farther ; northward of the capo this channel is divided (Vnin tlte sea by a very narrow bolt of low land covered with sand hills. The land < lii lin Mjo north side of the bay is so little above the sea level that when off the \ t cud of Satitu Margarita iuland it cannot bo scuu from the deck, Ftu»pa0t 2S2. ff rSBST Soimdi ■^P' 'rm w^ mmm l.oNliKN .Uti\«i liiirav Jl' illMMU* Ut. I.ONIioN ,I«iim Iiin»v *• r^nii . Magdalena bay. 163 Captain Da Petit Thonars says : — '■ The high land of cape Sau Lazaro affords an excellent mark for making the land, as it can be seen at the distance of 10 or 12 leagues. The entrance of the bay is 8 miles wide and very brief. It presents no difficulty, if only care be taken not to go too near the sonth point, becaase of a detached rock, on which the sea breaks, situated about half a mile from the point. In tacking, when within the bay, care must be taken co avoid the Venus bank ; it is necessary also to keep sufficiently far from the low land to the East and N.E. Anchorage can bo obtained in the north-west part of the bay, or in the south part of it, according to the prevailing winds. The holding ground is moderately good. The bay offers no resources, as there are neither houses, wood, nor water. Outside the bay, the current rui^s southward, with a strength of about one-third of a mile per hour. The tides are regular, and occasion very strong currents at the entrance of the bay. It is high water, on the days of full and chango of the moon, at 7h. 87m. The tide rises about 6| feet. The following remarks on making Magdalena bay are by Captain W. H. Parker, P.M.8.S. Co., 1871 : — In entering this bay keep over towards point Entrada. The best anchorage, at all seasons, is probably abreast the spot marked "Obs'y" on Belcher's chart, about 7 miles N.W. from point Entrada. To reach it you have only to follow the land around from tho point, at a distance of three-quarters of a mile and anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms water. During the prevalence of northerly winds the best anchorage is, perhaps, at the head of the bay. It is here I have generally seen whalers at anchor. To reach it, run about N. by E. } E. from the entrance to the harbour, and anchor in 7 or 8 fa- thoms ; observing not to bring point Entrada to the eastward of S. by W. J W. This will insure your being clear of Dupetit spit. The anchorage on the eastern side of the bay, towards Mangrove island, is more e-^'^ed to the winds. At present, when we have passengers for Magdalena ba^, they are met by a boat off point Eutr.iila. It is not yet determined where the anchorage for our steamers will be when wo outer tho bay. This will depend upon the permanent location of the colony. There is not tlio loiist difficulty in entering the bay by day or night. You will, of course, keep tho lead going." Sir Edward Belcher, ll.N,, observes, " I was fully prepared to have found, as the name imported, un extensive bay ; but on entering the heads, which are about 2 miles asunder, no Uuul could bo discerned from tho deck, from N.W. to N.E. or East ; and even after entering, it was quite a problem iu this new sea where to seek for anchorage, our depths at first, even near tlie shore, ranged from 17 to 80 fiithoms. However, ns the prevailing winds appeared to be westerly, I detorniinod on beating to windward, in which it eventually proved I was correct. About 4h. p.m., wo reached a very con- venient berth iu 10 fathoms, with a very sheltered position for our observatory. Pre- parations wore immediately made for tho examination of this extensive sea, or what I shall in future term tho gulf of Ma;;;daleua. It is probable that this part of tbo coast formerly presented three detached islands Ma \ 164 LOWER CAtiromiA. viz., San Lazaro range, Magdalena range, and Margarita range, with one nnnamedsaod island, and nnmerous sand iBlets. It is not improbable that its estuaries meet those from La Paz, forming this portion of sontberu California into an imiuv«ase archipelago. The tirst part of our expedition led us up the northern branch of what held out soma prospect of a fresh-water river, particularly as frequent marks of cattle were noticed. In the prosecution ef this part of cur »urvey we noticed that the San Larazo range is only coDBeeted by a Tery narrow belt of sand between the two bays, and that the ■ommit of soma sand-hills were covered in- a most extraordinary manner, by piles of fragile shells, which resembled those recently found in the gulf. The cliffs tbroagbonfe the Gulf also abomid in organic remains. Having explored the westernmost estaary, about 17 miles northward of onr observa- tory, until no end appeared to its intricacies, I resolved on attempting a second, whicb afforded a wider entrance, and afforded deeper water. This was examined about 4 miles beyond the last, and it still offered ample scope for employment, the advanced boat being at that moment in i fathoms, and distant heads iu view ; but coudderiug that sufficient had been done to show that no hope offered of reaching fresh-water, and that th« still^ unexplored state of the gulf would engross all our spare time, I determined' on adhering to- its raai.v outlines, which eventually offered so many intricacies as almost to baffle our patience. One circumstance connected with the exflmiuation of the second estaary afforded tery strong proof that no fiesh-water streams were in the vicinity. It was the fact of iinding near onr advanced position many large specimens uf the asteria n>odu9n, or enryale, an asteria seldom found but in pure, and genoruUy deep salt water. At least twenty were taken by the dredge. By the 9th of November we had reached the eastern end of the first gulf, when the ship was moved into the second, the channel or strait connecting thorn being not more' than a quarter of a mile wide. I had been very Bauguine in my expectations that we' should have discovered a safe channel out by the eastern end of the island of Margarita ; but until satisfied upon that point I took t^to Stiniiii;/ and boats to explore. I found that our boats, and, upon emergency, the Starliui/, might have passed out, but it was far too doubtful and ii.tiicalo for the ship. After all the time expended (18 days) on this immense sheet of water, it will- naturally be enquired, \shat nrivautagos docs the port offer ? The reply is : at the present moment, sholter ; and irom several water-courses nearly dry at the time of our visit, it is evident that very powerful streams scour the valleys in the winter season, Vlhich in this regi(m is reckoned botwen May and October. Fuel (mangrove) can be easily obtained in the pwtoros. As a port for refit after any disaster, it is also very oonvcnient ; and for this purpose' either our northern or southern observatoi'y bays may bo selected. Tlio latter would afford bettor shelter, but the former is certainly more convenient, and less liable to' difficulty of navigation, the access to it being entirely free from shoals. In war it would bo a moat eligible rendezvous, particularly if watching the coasts of Mexico or California, as no one could prevent the formation of an establishment, with- out adequate naval force ; and the nature of the country itself would not uiaiutaiu an opposing party. CAPES CORSO, SAN LAZARO, kc. 165 The island of Margarita woald afford an excellent site for a deposit for naval stores. Martello towers on the heads of the entrance would completely command it, and, ex< cepting on the inside, no force could he landed. Water would doubtless flow into wells, of which we had proof in spots where the wild beasts had scraped holes ; but from some (no doubt removable) causes, it was intensely bitter. There is nothing in the geological constitution of the hills to render it so. The ranges of hills composing the three suites of mountains, vary from 1600 to 2000 feet." Cape Oorao, 10^ miles N. W. by W. from Estrada point, is a bold rocky point, fronted by a white sand bluff, which nearly encircles it, the coast between being a succession of rocky points and iuterveuiug sand-beaches, the laud rising abruptly to a height of 500 to 1600 feet. Mount Isabel, the highest point, is 1592 fe«t high. CapaBontazaro is a high remarkable-looking headland of volcanio origin, which can be seen for many miles, and when first made out has the appearance of an island. It extends about 4 miles N. by W. and S. by E. and is 600 to 1300 feet high. Its southern extremity is distant about 7^ miles N.W. i W. from cape Corso. The coast recedes between these two points, forming the bay of Santa Maria, 8 miles deep, where good anchorage may be found in 7 or 8 futhoms, a mile from the beach. The land around the bay is low and sandy. From capo San Lazaro the coast trends nearly North 77 miles to San Juanico point, in about lat. 26° 3', From the former point to within 10 miles of the latter the coast is merely n low sand-beach, with high land many miles in the interior ; thence north- ward the laud is higher a short distance back. In lat. 25° 16' there is a shallow entrance to the lagoo called Boca Soledad, and in lat. 25° 30' another called Boca de San Domingo. Neither of these entrances can be used except by boats or flat-bottomed vessels of light draught. Shoal water and breakers extend off all these entrances, as indeed off the whole of this coast. Tho soundings are 7 to 12 fathoms 2 or 3 miles from the beach, the entire distance between the points. Foint San Juanieo is low and sandy ; south-eastward of it is an open bay where ships may anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms, a mile and a half from the beach, and find shelter from the coast wind, avoiding the sand-spit which makes off about a mile to the southward of the point. Here is the entrance to the Sun Juanico lagoon, which is used by the small coasters, carrying or 7 foet, at the highest spring tides. The lagoon extends inland several miles, but is very shallow. Foint San Domingo, 27 miles N.W. by W. i W. from point San Juauico, is a re- markable perpendicular rocky cliff, of dark colour, the cliff extending several miles above and below tlio point. The coast between points San Juauico and San Domingo is formed chiefly of sand- hills, 100 to 200 foet high, with high tabio-liiuds a few miles in the interior. About 15 miles north-west from point Sau Juauico is a small cove, known as Peq^uena bay, where a vessel may find shelter from the coast wind. Sauanaa Bay. — From San Domipgo point the coast trends N.W. by W. -J W. for 166. LOWER CALIFORNIA. about 40 miles and then bende ronnd to the westward and southward, forming Ballenas bay; this coast is low and sandy with several lagoons close behind the beach. Ballenas bay is so named on account of its being a favourite resort of the hump- back species of whale. The western limit of the bay is formed by Abreojos point, here- after described. The soundings in it are reported to be regular and to extend a considerable distance from the shore ; at less than a mile from the beach the depth is asserted to be 8 fathoms, whence they increase gradually seaward. The bay affords no shelter, as it is quite exposed to southward and south-westward, from which quarters a heavy sea is sent in when the. wind blows with any force. In the eastern part of Ballenas bay, in about lat. 26° 45', is the entrance to a ve^ extensive lagoon, which is probably deep enough in some parts to admit vessels drawi not more than 12 feet at high water ; it is known as the San Ignacio lagoon, principal branch is abon^^ 2 miles wide at its mouth ; after running northward for 8 miles, it turns a little to westward and doubles its width at C miles from the bar, then gradually contracting it ends at 8 miles farther up, making the whole length 14 miles. A small branch, making from the south part of the entrance and taking a more easterly course, rni' ■ through a low flat country 12 to 15 miles when it reaches a high table land. Another small estero, 15 miles farther south, emptying into the sea, joins the southern branch of the main Ingoon. Near the head of this sheet of water are two islands, not more than 4 miles in length and 1 in width ; both are very low. The upper island, on its highest part, has a growth of trees and low bushes, which gives it a pleasant contrast with the surrounding country. The southern island is quite barren. The face of the country, immediately in the vicinity of this inland water, on either hand, is low, quite level, and extremely barren ; a few stunted shrubs and trees are now and then met with, and a species of rush grass is found in many places, but so scattered that no appearance of anything but a sandy desert plain is seen a short distance from the shore. To the south-eastward rises a long table-land, to the height of 1000 feet or more, and then comes a wild mountainous country as far os the eye can see. It is stated there is trail leading from this lagoon to another, called Ojo de Lievre, the distance being 70 miles. The native name of this lagoon is Sana Maria. In a northerly direction from its head, distant B5 miles, I'ises a mountuiu, showing three swells of land at its summit ; it is called San Ignacio, and at its foot is a mission bear- ing the same name. As this mountain is viewed from the coast, a still higher elevation is seen, standing aloue, with rounded peak. At its base are hot sulphur springs. The entrance to this fine body of water is shoal, narrow and extremely dangerous, on account of the strong currents running in different directions at different stages of the tide. A depth of 7 feet of water only is found at low tide ; the rise and fall is about G feet. A heavy swell usually rolls on the bar at full and change of the moon, and it is only practicable for small vessels of light draught. =« At the head of the bay is the entrance to another lagoon which extends inland about 8 or 10 miles in a northerlv direction. * See tlie Mercantile Marine Magazine, Vol. for 1860, from wliioh the description of tliio lAgoon is chiefly taken. All the coast between Hagdalena bay and San Diego, io lat. 82° 41', is rery little known, and is believnd to be very imperfectly delineated in the charts. ABREOJOS POINT, &o. 167 The entrances to all of the lagoons above described, with the exception of that to the San Ignacio lagoon, are narrow and shallow, being merely boat passages in smooth weather ; heavy breakers and shoals extend off the mouths of all of them. Abreojoa Point, the western point of Ballenas bay, is low and sandy ; its approximate geographical position is lat. 26° 42', long. 118° 82'. A reef extends a short distance south of the point, and many detached rocks on its eastern side. A dangeroas reef is situated about G miles W.S.W. from Abreojos point ; the passage between the reef and the point is dangerous and should be used with great caution. A small rock known as the Whale rock, about 4 feet high, is on the inner end of the reef. Shoal water makes off 2 or 8 miles south-east from the point. Indeed, the whole locality is dangerous, and no vessel should approach this part of the coast nearer than 8 or 10 miles except by day, and then with caution. About 6 miles north-westward of Abreojos point is the entrance to a small lagoon. Ban Bipouto Point, W.N.W. 27 miles from Abreojos point, is low and sandy, with a shoal making off to the southward and westward about a mile. Ban Hipolito bay, immediately to the eastward of the point of the same name, is formed by the coast falling away 3 or 4 miles between the points. The coast is low and sandy, rising gradually to a height uf 200 feet, with table-lands of considerable eleva- tion a few miles inland. AsnncionBay. — From San Hipolito point to Asuncion islet, in about lat. 27° 6', long. 114° 16', the distance is about 19 miles in a north-westerly direction. This islet forms the western limit of Asuncion bay ; its north end is distant one mile S. by E. from Asuncion point, a low bluff with a cone-shaped mound, 75 feet high at its outer extremity, and moderately high hills a short distance inland. Asuncion islet is about one mile in length, N. by W. and S. by E., and half a mile wide. It is entirely barren, and is highest towards its southern end, where it reaches 100 feet. It is surrounded by detached rocks and kelp, and a reef extends nearly half way across the passage between the island and the opposite point. This passage carries 5 fathoms water, but should be used with caution and only in cases of emergency. Asuncion bay is 3 to 4 miles deep and is said to afford good anchorage. The coast is low and sandy between the points, table-lands of moderate elevation rising a short distance inland. - ' San Boque Point, 7^ miles W. by N. ^ N. from Asuncion point, is a light-coloured bluff 80 to 60 feet high. Between these points is the open bay of San Roque, the shores of which are low, with table-lands a few miles inland. Two miles soutli-east of San Roque point and about the same distance from the bottom of the bay lios San Koque islet. It is a low rugged rock, about 10 feet high, partly covered with gravol and light sand. It is about a mile long, N.W. and S.E., and a third of a mile wide. The passage bciwocu the island and the luainiaud is lillcd with rocks and reefs, and is Bnl'e only for bouts. Point Ban Pablo, 5 uiiles N.W. } W. from San Roque point, is a dark slate-coloured bluff, 636 feet high. In its vicinity a few miles in the interior are extensive table- lands. To the northward and near it is a remarkable range of bare peaks 2000 to 2600 feet high, of variegated colour and great beauty, probably the range of mountains named Sierra Pintada by Sebastian Viscaino, iu 1590. ^68 •LOWER CALIFORNIA. i Table mountain, 12 miles eastward of San Pablo point, is about 2200 feet high, and jcan be seen many miles at sea. Ban Pablo Bay, between points Ban Roque and San Pablo, is about 2 miles deep, apparently free from all dangers, and affords good anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms, half a mile from shore. Ban crutobai Bay. — From point San Pablo to Morro Hermoso, a bare rocky cliff in lat. 27° 82', the distance is 25 miles in a N.W. ^ W. direction. Between these points the coast recedes several miles, forming the open bay of San Cristobal, and consists generally of bluff? and sand-cliffs, 50 to 100 feet high, the coast-range rising to a height of several hundred feet, a short distance inland. The soil is of seyeral colours, brown and gray predominating. Thnrioe Head, 7 miles north-west of Morro Hermoso, is a long cliff, high, rocky, and steep on the western side, with a more gradual slope on the south-eastern side, and many outlying rocks and kelp in its vicinity. BAIT BABTOZiOMB. — This bay, or harbour, is situated close to the northward of Thurloe head ; it is 3 to 4 miles iu diameter; circular in its general form, and perfectly land-locked in its south-eastern part, which is called Turtle bay. A reef of rocks runs in a north-westerly direction about a mile from cape Tortolo, its eastern part of entrance, eastward of which a ship may anchor in 5 to 8 fathoms, sheltered from every wind. Cape Tortolo is a rocky point about 20 feot high, rising rapidly to an elevation of 425 feet. Mount Belcher, a mile south, is 436 feet high. The land about the bay consists of high bluffs and is entirely barren, the Santa Clara range rising to an altitude of 3000 feet a few miles in the interior. There is no indication of fresh water here. It is high water, full and change, at 9h. 10m. ; springs rise 7 to 9 feet. Kelp Foint, the north-west limit of the bay, is about SO feet high, with many out- lying rocks, the whole surrounded with kelp. Mount San Bartolome rises to a height of 850 feet a short distance from the point. The geographical position of Kelp point, according to the observation? of Com. Dewey U.S.S. Narrafjansett, 1874, is lat. 27° 3i)' 85", long. 114° 54' 27". Respecting the bay of San Bartolome a writer in the Mercantile Mating Magazine, 18G0, says — " In the southern part of the bay of San Bartolome there is a fine anchorage sheltered from all winds. The harbour is much frequented by the whalers, who resort thither to cooper their oil, — or to pass a few days in fishing or catching turtle. It is usually called ' Turtle bay,' by them. Wood may be procured here, in case of extreme necessity, by searching for low green bushes in the level land about the shores ; the roots are found running near the top of the ground and are 8 or 10 foot long and often 6 inches through ; they burn readily, and produce the required heat. At the time sailing vessels were plying between Panama and San FranoisQO, occasionally some oftho number, in actual distress for many of the nepessary articles (jf provisions, put into port San Bartolome, hoping to have their wants, to some extent relieved. One vessel is said to have anchored hero with nearly all her crew dowgwith the scurvy, and several of them died. Numbers of hapless adventurers have founii a final resting-place along the shore of the inner bay, and on an islet that breaks the pcean swell in front of the harbour. Hero are found grave-boards, some rudely (carvcd, tarn GKRROS ISLAND, 169 giving the date of interment ; Qther graves are only marked by rough stones, and countless nnmbers of sea-birds nightly cover the ground above them." Abont 6 miles north-westward from Kelp point is Breaker point, about 20 feet high, off which are many detached rocks, over which the sea breaks heavily. Thonce the coast trends north-westerly about 10 miles to Ban Eugeuio point. Point BanBngcnio is the extreme west point of the lofty promontory which forms the southern side of the great bay of Sebastian Yiscaino ; its approximate geographical position is lat. 27° 50' 80", long. 115° 3'. Point San Engenio is low, dark and rocky, projecting toward Natividad island ; from it a reef extends a quarter of a mile W.S.W., and another somewhat longer of rocks above water in a N. by E. direction. A small rock, covered with guauo, and known as Chester islet, lies about a mile noiihward of the point ; another smaller rock is situated between it and the point. CBBBOs zsZiAND. — From point San Eugenie to Morro Redondo, the southernmost point of Cedros, or Cerros island, the distance is 12^ miles, and direction N.W. i N. Morro Redondo is a rocky cliff about 80 feet high, with many outlying rocks, and a round hill or cone of moderate elevation just behind it ; its approximate geographical position is lat. 28° 2', long. 115^ 9'. There is good anchorage northward of Morro Redondo, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, sandy bottom, half a mile from the beach. About 5 miles northward of Morro Redondq on the east side of the island, is an excellent watering place. It may be recognised by a patch of tall rank grass behind a sand-beach about 250 feet in length, and the only one in that vicinity. It is about a mile southward of the easternmost point of the island, and the first arroyo to the southward. The depth at less than a mile from the island is about 40 luuuoms, with the excep- tion that a bank of 5 to 10 fathoms extends 8 miles south from its south-east point in the direction of the west end of Natividad island, and to nearly the middle of the channel between, them. Cedros island is 18 to 22 miles in length, N. by W. and S. by E., and 8 tq 8 mile^ in width. It is a high, barren island, of volcanic origin, and evidently contains much mineral wealth. Occasionally in the valleys there are a few stunted bushes and a little coarse rank grass. The highest peak, near the spnthern partof the island, is 8955 feet high, and may be seen on a clear day 60 miles. In the Mercantile Marine Mayasine, Vol. for 1800, is the following account of Cerros island : — '< Cerros is an island of mountains throughout its whole extent, being a mass of high, abrupt peaks, the highest of which is 2500 feet above the level of the sea, and may be distinctly seen, in clear weather, 60 miles. On a near approach, t'ae sombre barreq appeaiauco of all brought to view is anything but inviting. Many of the southern slopes present a dark red hue, interspersed with high variegated cliffs, that give a little change to the otherwise dull scene. On lauding, one is at once fully sensible of the extreme dry atmosphere prevailing; still there must be, occasionally, heavy rains, produciug mountain torrents, which have cut their way through the sand and grave| bottoms that skirt the Bouthern bases. These, however, are of rare occurrence, for 170 LOWER CALIFORNIA. whalers best acqaainted with the island, who have been living temporarily there, or along the noighboaring coast for the last 6 or 6 years, have never known it to be visited by anything more than light rains, and those at long intervals. On the N.E. side, at about 8 miles from the extreme north end, a low sandy point . makes out ; southward of this is good anchorage during the prevailing coast winds. In a ravine near it, is a small stream of fresh water ; and likewise in several of the valleys leading from the shore line, to the southward, water rany be found within a mile of the beach. At one of these places it is of excellent quality. The only practi- cable place, however, for a ship to obtain a large supply, is on the S.E.^side, where there is a spring running among rushes at the foot of a high peak close to the shore. Tbe jasks are filled by placing them within a few feet of the running stream, and con- ducting the water into them by means of a rough wooden spout, on the side of which are the words: — 'Whoever uses this will please to put it in its proper place, for the benefit of those who may come for water.' Anchorage may be had off this spring, within two cables of the shore, in 20 fiithoms of water; but a mnch better place for a ship to lie is 2 m'les farther south, off a low shingle beach — where it is not so deep, and the gusts that come down the mountains, when the wind is from the west, are not nearly so heavy as at the other anchorage. A vessel can always find shelter from the N.W. winds on the south side of tbe island, in depths varying firom 6 to 25 fathoms ; these winds blow with the regularity of a ' trade,' from May to October, and the only precaution to be kept in mind in choosing an anchorage is to avoid fixed kelp. From October to May the winds are generally light and the weather delightful. Occasionally s strong 'norther,' or a light S.E. gale, blows the first part of the winter, and strong gales from the N.W. again set in about the Ist of May. It is said by those well versed in such things, that there is every indication of ex- tensive mineral deposits, in the shape of quartz rock and copper, scattered over many parts of GerroG island. Whether they really exist there remains to be proved." Ban Smito Island*. — Nearly 20 miles N.W. by W. from cape San Augustin, the south-western extremity of Gedrcs island, are the San Benito islands, a. group of three small barren rocks, extendinr^ about 8 miles east and west, and one mile noiih and soath. The westernmost is the largest; it is a circular, flat-topped island, about 200 feet high, with a mound in the centre about 650 feet high. At its north-east end is a low point running out a quarter of a mile to the westward. The middle islpnd is low, and about two-thirds of a mile long, east and west. There is a narrow passage filled with rocks between this and the western island. The eastern island is about a mile long, north and south, and has a peak on its northern end about 500 feet high. There is a boat passage between this and the middle island, a quarter to half a mile wide,^with several rocks, some above water. The islands are surrounded with kelp and detached rocks. The geographical position of the summit of the largest (western) San Benito island, according to the observations of Com. Dewey, U.S.S. Narrayanaett, 1874, is lat. 28" 18' 8", long. 115° 86' 10". There is^anchorage south-east of the western island, in 12 fathoms, sandy bottom, SEBASTIAN VISCAINO BAY. 171 ontside the kelp; and a good landing on tbe north-east side of the same island on a shingle beach northward of a red rook. Two sharp pinnacle rocks, with only 6 feet water on them, are situated 1^^ miles W. by S. from the monnd on the western island. They are about SO feet apart N.E. and S.W. ; the southern one about 80 feet and the northern one 10 feet in length on ton, and 2 to 4 feet wide. The sea breaks on them in all weathers. At 100 feet east of the rocks the depth is 12 fathoms, and no bottom at 20 fathoms at any other place around them at the same distance. HatlTidad Island. —From Monro Bedondo the eastern point of Natividad island bears S. by E. } E. 10^ miles. There is a clear passage 8 miles in width between Cedros and Natividad islands, with 16 to 80 fathoms water (excepting the 5 to 10-fathom patch already alluded to). This passage is kno vn as Eellet channel. Natividad island is about 4^ miles in length N.W. and S.E., and half a mile to a mile and a half in width, being widest at the south-eastern ( xtremity. It is of moderate elevation, hilly, entirely barren, and surrounded with keip. The highest part is near the western end, and is about 500 feet. This part ii- very rocky, having a reef running rut, mostly under water, connecting it with an islet known as Maria rock. In fact, the channel is almost entirely surrounded by rocks above and under water. E.N.E. from the southern part of the island is a square flat-topped rock, about 25 feet high, connected with the island by a reef, upon which the sea breaks continually. Sail rock, 40 feet high, lies about 2 cables ofif the southern point of tbe island ; ofif it a reef, on which the sea breaks occasionally, extends S. by W. half a mile. s«w«T Obumai, between Natividad island and the mainland, is 4 miles wide. On the Natividad side there is much foul ground. A 8-fathom shoal, having 9 and 10 fathoms around, lies about 1^ miles East from the south end of Natividad island. The sea breaks over this shoal only at long intervals in fine weather. A large field of kelp stretches off for several miles southward of point San Eugenio. In using this channel, keep about a mile and a half from the point, until the kelp- patch is passed, then steer parallel with the coast. sxsBAsTi&i? xnsOAXSto BAT. — At point San Eugenio, already described (pagel69) the coast suddenly turns eastward and after continuing in that direction many miles, gradually curves northward and north-westward and forms with Cerros island tbe great bay of Sebastian Yiscaino, the entrance to which, between Cerros island and the north- east coast of the mainland, is aboct 50 miles in width. Tbe coast immediately eastward of point San Eugenio is rocky and mountainous, the mountains being near the shore. As the entrance to Scammon or Ojo de Lievre lagoon, about 40 miles eastward of the point, is approached, the coast gradually becomes lower and more sandy. The mouth of this lagoon is in about lat. 27° 54', long. 114° 16', it is recognised by white sand-bluffs on each side, SO to 40 feet high. Extensive shoals extend off hereabout in a northerly direction, only 4 fathoms water being found 6 miles from the land. From the mouth of Scammon lagoon the coast, consisting of a low sand-beach, with numerous hillocks 10 to 80 feet high, trends N.E. by N. 16 miles to the entrance of the Black V/arhor lagoon. Shoals make off for a long distance north-west of the 172 LOWER CALIFORNIA. entrance of the lagoon, the depth at 5 miles from the land being only 4 fathoms, with heavy breakers within. Another lagoon, known as the Mannela or upper lagoon, lien a few miles farther northward, having its entrance about 4 miles southward of Lagoon head. Xiagoon H«ad, in about lat. 28° 14', long. 114° 5', is a lofty headland; its highest peak is 474 feet above the sea, and visible at a distance of 30 or 40 miles in clear weather. When viewed from a distance of a few miles at sea it looks like an island, as the low land inside it cannot be seen. From Lagoon head the coast turns abiiiptly to the eastward about 2 miles, B'veeping gradually to the southward, and forming a small op«n bay, which affords good anohorag* anywhere near the land, in !3 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom. High land extends about 2 miles east to a point near the northern end of the upper lagoon ; thence, to the eastward and southward, extensive plains and marshes stretch away to the great lagoons, high mountain-ranges being visible in the interior. The following description of the lagoons in Sebastian Yist; ''no bay 's extracted from the Nautical Magazine, I860; — "The coast of Lower California, from San Geronimo island to the great lagoon, trends Li.E., presenting a nearly unbroken range of rugg«d mountains, scantily clothed with cedar trees, but in many places barren of all verdure; and, to judge by the appearance from seaward, unfit for human habitation. For about 30 miles the sierra closes on the sea, throwing out bold rocky promontories, offering no shelter for vessels, although promising deep water close in shore. Hero and there long stretches of white sandy beach appear, on which the surf rolls heavily. Following the coast down to where Cerros island bears about 8.W., a headland will be observed in the main land, known by the name of Lagoon head, from rising abruptly out of a low country which is passed after leaving the mountain ridges already mentioned. This headland is high find black like a hummock, but appears to have no other elevations inland from it. Immediately southward of this is a lagoon about 10 miles long by 7 broad, to which no name has yet been given. It was entered by whale-boats, and partially explored; but there is not depth enough for a ship to pass over tho bar, ou which a heavy surf breaks in westerly winds. The land subsides again into a low marshy country from Lagoon head for about 12 miles, when, in following the coast to the S.E., the mouth of a second and larger kgoon is opened. This is about 15 miles long by 8 wide, and has depth of water suthcient to ffoat a ship ; but the bar is very dangerous. It is known as the Ban Domingo lagoon. Navigators will bo very apt to mistake this or the first one for the big or whaling lagoon (that named Ojo do Lievrc); but care should be taken to pass by two entrances before standing in for the land. The whaler Black Warrior was lost at the mouth of this second lagoon, wliilo uttumpting to enter, haviug uiistaken it for tiie largo one, whicii is kIiII turthor soutliward. On leaving Lagoon bead, a ship may stand along 3t a distance of miles from the bei^ch, keeping ii^ about 7 fathoms water. After passing the second Ingonn, al)ont 10 milos from the head, the outer breakers ^t the entrance of the big 'iigoon may bo plainly seen, as well as those on the bar, jltretohing 4 or 6 miles seaward ; keeping inside pf il^ese the inner breakers wiU apptwiF SEBASTIAN VISCAINO BAY. 178 iti siiore, aod the chaDnel lies midway between the two lines. This channel may be plainly seen, it opens gradually, shoaling until on the bar, which has 2 fathoms at low water and 8 at high water spring tides, and is from half a mile to 1 mile wide. The bar is about a quarter of a mile across, a.ud when passed, the water rapidly deepens to 4, 6, and 6 fathoms, xhe entrance is then plainly visible, formed by two sandheads, about 80 feet in height. The deepest water is midway between the heads, after passing which the right hand shore should be kopt aboard, and with the lead going there will be no difficulty in running into the lagoon. This lagoon (Ojo de Lievre) was first entered by Captain Scammon in the spring of 1866. While whaling in Magdalena bay, a Mexican informed him of it, but never having been there, he was unable to describe its situation, although he judged from the low character of the country and the receding of the mountains in that direction, that the lagoon must be there. Ho accordingly set out on an exploring expedition, and first struck the small or northern one, which with the next, he partially explored, and was three days getting down to the big one, the approach to which looked very dangerous to a stranger. Having sounded the channel with his boats, ho took his ship in. The explorations which have thus far been made lead to the supposition that these three lagoons weiO, at one time, a single body of water, and it is thought that, owing to the marshy character of the country, there may still be, during the rainy season, communication by sloughs or branches ; but this is not known. The mountains, with their serrated ireaks, traversing the Lower California peninsula, generally close with the coast, either within a few miles of the beach, or from jutting headlands washed by tbu waves of th« ocean. The chain opposite to where the lagoon is, turns inland about 20 luiles, u);t>ning a sort of amphitheatre, forming the bed of the lake, whicb id tilled from the ocean, lud the only inlet or outlet to which, thus far discovered, is the entrance already described. A small space of rising land intervenes between the western border and the foothills of the mountains, which are wooded in a few places, but appear generally to be sterile and valueless. Around the borders of tlie lugoou are ranges of sand hills, extending in every direc- tion, being apparently the collection of agos, drifted in from the ocean. This feature gives to the vicinity an aspect somewhat similar to that of the ocean beach opposite San Francisco, but without tiio rocks and headlands. These sands are ever moving, ftnd changing, in consequence of being thu^ driven by the fierce ocean winds. A boat which was left for a few days near the southern border of the lagoon was completely filled with sand, and would, in another week, have been entirely hidden from sight by it. Of course no trees nor herbage c*" any kind exists there, nor can any kind of eultivatiou be carried on. Changes in tiie face of the country are going on constantly. Logs of redwood, 8 or 4 feet in diamator, are even found half covered over by sand, and sometimes several miles from the water. Those are evidently of Oregon growth, and have either been tlivowu into th« ir present position by the surf, in some tremen- dous storm, or being onee lodged on the beach, the sands have encroached on the water, leaving the logs far inland in the course of time. Their presence is accounted for by flurrents setting down from the northward. Fresh-water and wood are very aoaroo, atul should an unhap^v wayfarer chance to get lost in these trackless wilds, •tArvation would bo inevitable. Sevarnl iustanoeg of this are very well known. 174 LOWER CALIFORNIA. The lagoon from its entrance expands at once into a vast sheet of water. In every direction nothing is to be seen on the shore but scrab bnshos and stunted grass. To tue southward, a small lagoon, about 8 miles in extent, is connected with the larger one, and is navigable. It is known as fort Lagoon, but whales seldom go into it. The iagouu contains several islands, covered with stunted grass and weeds, with the ex- ception of two, which are supposed to contain guano, although this conclusion is not yet well established. The distance from the bar to the western border is between 80 and 40 miles, but counting the northern lagoons already described, and which are believed to have been at one time a portion of the main one, this body of water would be upwards of 70 miles in extent. The breadth is between 20 and 80 miles. In every part, except close to the shore, may be found from 2 to 6 fathoms, and good anchorage everywhere." Santa Boaaiia Bay, about 20 miles northward of Lagoon head, affords good anchorage with northerly winds. The point forming the southern limit of the bay is low and dangerous, rocks and shoals making off from it at least a mile ; its approximate geographical position is lat. 28° 84', long. 114° 7'. A short distance northward of Rosalia point is a small bare rock about 40 feet high known as Elide island. There is a little guano on it, and it is covered with sea-fowl and seals. It lies about half a mile from the mainland, and there is an anchorage on its south-east side. From Rosalia point to Maria point, 22 miles N.W. i W., the coast is moderately low, with high ranges of hills a short distance back. It is a succession of points with shallov bays mterveniug. l»aTla''Foint is low and rocky, with sand-hills rising to a height of about 80 feet a quarter of a mile inland ; when seen from southward it appears as a dark low point, with a red coue (Gone point) above it. Its approximate geographical position is lat. 28° 54' 80", long. 114° 29'. Tiaya Maria Bay. — This bay lies to the south-eastward of Maria point, between it and Bluck point; it is about 6 miles in width and 2 miles iu depth. Black point is a low dark rock, backed by white sand a short distance inland. The land about the bay is low and sandy, and as barren as most of this coast. A hill, known as Station peak, 260 feet high, is situated near the head of the bay. There is good anchorngo iu G fathoms, about a milo from the beach, where a nhip mny lind'sholtor from the northerly coast winds. It is high water, full and change, at Uh. 20m,; springs rise 7 to 9 foot. Gone Point' •i\ niilos N.W. by W. J W. from Maria point, is a r.imarkable red cone 200 foot high, with.niuny detached and outlying rocks extending of about half a mile to the southward. When first seen from the northward it looks liko an island. Falsa bay lies between Coue and Maria points. Blanco Point, 17 i miles north-westward of Cone point, is a perpendicular sand-cliff about 100 feet. high with the coast rongejust behind. The intervening coast is a succession of points and bays, one of which, Blanco bay, affords good anchorage with a northerly wind. In about lat. 20° 11' ia a rock, 20 feet high, situated close to the shore. Oanoaa Point is about 24 miles W.N.W. iVom cape Blanoc ; it is a porpondicnlar SAN GIlRONIMO ISLET, &c. 175 sand-bluff about 224 feet high. The const between thes" ^.vyiuis recedes about 5 miles, forming an extensive open bay, known as Cauoas bay. San Antonio Point, in about lat. 29° 45', long. 115° 40', is distant about 85 miles W.N.W. f/om Canoas point. The intervening coast consists of sand-bluffs, and is vaf1>er iower near San Antonio than at Canoas point. High table-lands rise imme- diately from the coast to a height of 1000 to 2000 feot. Sacramento Beef, on which the P.M.S.S. Co. steamer Sacramento, was lost in 1878, bears S.W. by W. i W. 8^ miles from point San Antonio. It is about a mile in length, north-west and south-east, and half a mile wide. The aijproximate geographical position of the centre of the reef is lat. 28° 44', long. 115° 44'. There are several rocks awash and above water, and the sea constantly breaks over them. The reef is surrounded by thick kelp, which extends nearly to San Gcronimo island (8^ miles N.W. i N. from it) and about half way to poini San Antonio, between which and the reef there is a passage with 6 to 12 fathoms water. Although there if shoal water for many miles southward of the island, there are no indications of ro'^ks or reefs; still there may be many bidden dangers, and a vessel should not approach this part of the coast without using grtat caution and sounding before running through the thick kelp. San aeronlmo. — This islet lies about 5^ miles W. by N. i N. from point San Antonio, is about a mile in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., and a third of a mile wide. Seen from northward it shows three hills of moderate elevation, the highest 170 feet, and it is low at both ends. The island is covered in many places with a mixture of sand and guano. It is surrounded by kelp and outlying rocks, except on the south- east side at the foot of the higkust peak, where there is a small shingle-beach. There is a passage about 4 miles in width between the island and the mainland ; but it should not be used, excopt in cases of great emergency, as kelp covers nearly the entire space, and no doubt covers many hidden dangers. The geographical position of San Gcronimo island, according to the observations of Com. Dewey U.S.S. Xdmii/nnsett 1874, is lat. 29° 47' 5", long. 115° 47' 44". Roaario Bay. — The coast betwccu point San Antonio and point Baja, 14 miles N.W. i N., recedes a few miles and forms near the latter point an open bay named Rosario. Here vessels may find protection from the coast winds. The country about the head of the buy near point Diija is fertile and cultivated, and supplies of vegetables, fresh beef, and water may be obtained there. The old mission of Rosario is a few miles inland. There is a reef and line of kelp extending a short distance southward from point Baja, and vessels entering the bay of Rosario sliouid givo it a good berth. Oapa San Quentin is distant 251 miles N.W. by N. from point Bnjn. The interven- ing coast is for tlio most part low and sandy, especially in the vicinity of San Quentin bay ; tliore aro high hills a slxirt distance inland. Mount Mayo, tlie highest part of the cape, is 210 feet in height, and is in the centre of the peninsula forming the western side of port San Quentin. Entrada point, the eaateruniost point of the peninsula, is low and rocky but may bo approached within a quarter of a mile. Thcnco westward the coast is of similar character with numerous projecting points and outlying rocks ovor which the sea breaks heavily. Reef point, the westernmost point of tho head, is dangerous to approach, as numerous rocks, above and under water, lio off it. 176 LOWER CALIFORNIA. Fort Ban Qnentin. — The land about port San Qnentin is low and sandy, and entirely without vegetation. The five remarkably placed mountains qf volcanic origin, on the north side of the bay, caused one of the early navigators to call this the " Bay of Five Hills." These mountains are from 800 to 1100 foet high, except the western end previously mentioned, which has an altitude of 4^60 feet.* No vessel drawing over 12 feet should attempt to enter this bay without either buoy- ing the channel or sending a boat ahead, as the channel usually shifts with every south-east gale, and i^ narrow and tortuous with not over 8 fathoms on the bar. For omall vessels it is a most excellent harbour, affording perfect protection from every wind. To enter the port, steer for Entrada point (the last rocky point passed in entering), giving it a berth of a quarter of a mile ; then steer N.W. about 4 cables, until you pass a sand-spit making out between Entrada and Sextant points ; then head up forthelatter point W. by N., passing it close to, as the channel at this place is very narrow. Sextant point is low and sandy. After passing it, follow the shore-line, and anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms half a mile inside the point. The approximate geographical position of Entrada point,- on the western side of the entrance to San Quentin bay, is lat. 80° 22', long. 115" 57'. Ban Martin Zalan .. — About 10 miles north-west of cape Sun Qnentin and 2.^ miles off the coast (which is here cliffy, 200 foot higli) is San Martin island ; there is a clear passage between it and the mainland, carrying 10 to 15 fathoms water, apparently free from all dangers. San Martin island is of volcanic origin, nearly circular in form, and is about 2 miles in extent in an east and west direction. It is quite barren, producing nothing but the prickly pear, and a little stunted brush growing among the rocks. The highest peak is 600 feet and is the crater of an extinct volcano, its diameter being 850 feet and its depth about 40 feet. There is good iineliorngc on thesouth-cast aide of the island, off the mouth of a small lagoon ; and a bettor ouo on the north-oast side, in a snug little cove, named Hasslcr cove, where a ship may anclior in 8 or 9 fathoms protected from all winds except those from north. The eastern side of the cove is formed by huge boulders which extend off to the northward, making an excellent breakwater. The geographical position of the anchorage on the north-east side of San Martin island, according to the observations of Com. Powey U.S.S. Nnrnv/nnsftl, 1874, is lat. 80° 29' 4", long. 110° 0' 80". Jienn Itock lies S. \ W. 8^ miles from the eastern end of San Martin island. It lias from 9 to 12 foet water on it with 5 fathoms close to, and no bottom at 17 fathoms 2 cables from it. The sea does not break on it in moderate weather. The coast between San Martin iHliind and Reef point (the western point of capo San Quentin) is formed of low sand-hiilH, except at about 5 miles to the northward of the point where one of the "Five HIHb " borders directly on the sea. * Tbig port is of no couniieniial importftiico, and in very rnroly viRitod. It was surveyed in 1889 by Captain Sir £. Bolohor, R.N., and a plan (No. 1U'J4) of it waRsiibipquontly publielicd. /a« page 111 TODOS/ SANTOS ^ ■•% ^ " :« Solidadllff'iPD' „ ^ • %,ri.ofMhin\.i«± Santo Tomas F? _-,^_ — — ANCHCKAGE OK SANTO TOMA.S ^SSk Nautdc MU« I.ONUOK, Jiuucti Inirftv X- Sou. TODOS SANTOS ISLANDS, &c. 177 ' Ban samon Bay. — Foar miles northward of San Martin island is the bay of San Bamou, formed by a slight indentation in the coast-line, which is here of low sand-hillg 50 to 100 feet high. At the soathern extremity of this bay, extending 2^ miles, is a remarkable perpendicular cliff of dark rock 150 to 200 feet high. The coast northward of San Martin island for about 20 miles is low and sandy ; the water shoal, with heavy surf off the part northward of Ramon bay. Thence to cape Goluett the coast is skirted by numerous fields of kelp making off 3 or 4 miles from the land. Cape ooinett, distant 30 miles N.W. f N. from San Martin island, is a remarkable headland, nearly semicircular in form, with perpendicular cliffs 100 to 350 feet high, of a dark-coloured rock (nearly black), on a bed of light saudstuue, the coast retaining the same appearance for about 10 miles northward. The cape bearing E.N.E., distant 7 miles, shows dark with yellow sand beyond. Ooinett Bay. — From cape Goluett the coast trends north-eastward for a short dis* tance, forming Coluott buy, where good anchorage may be found in to 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, sheltered from northerly winds. The geograpliiciil position of the head of Colnett bay, according to the observations of Com. Dewey, U.S.S. J^arragansett, 1874, is lat. 30° 57' 30", long. 110° 17' 22". Point soiedad is distant 41 miles N.W. by N. from cape Colnett. The coast between these points recedes several miles and is generally low, rising rapidly inland. Point Soiedad is low and rocky, rising abruptly to a height of 500 feet. Southward of the point, near two houses, there is good anchorage in fi'om 8 to 10 fathoms, sheltered from the coast wind. Soiedad rocks, one mile west of the point, arc of small extent. They are 20 feet high, and surrounded by kelp. There is a clear passage between them and Soledud point, keeping clear of the kelp on both sides. Point Banda, 12 miles N.W. ^ N. from poiut Soiedad, is the extremity of a pro- montory forming the southern side of Todos Santos bay. It is high, the highest peak being 500 feet, with outlying rocks extending three-quarters of a mile iu a north- westerly direction. The coast between point Holcdad and Danda point is high and precipitous, with deep water close-to. There is a whaling-station about 3 miles eastward of Bauda point, in the bay, with a good uncliorage sheltered from all winds, except those from westward. The channel between poiut Banda and Todos Santos islands is about 3 miles wide and free from all dungors, except the outlying rocks off poiut Banda mentioned above. Todoa Santos lelanda, diistant about 3 miles N.W. ^ W. from Banda point, front the buy of the snnie name. Tliey extend about 2 miles iu a north-west and south-east direction. The western one is about one mile iu length, cast and west, a quarter of a mile wide, and 30 to GO feet high ; the eastern one is about the same length, north- west and south-east, half a mile wide, and 250 feet high. Both are -surrounded by detached rocks and kelp ; there is a boat-passage between them. Todos Bantoa Bay. — Cape San Miguel, the northern limit of Todos Santos bay, is high and bold. Thence to Euceuada poiut, a distance of about miles E. by S., the coast is bold, with cliffs 60 to. 200 feet high. There is u largo field of kelp near Euoeuttda poiut, with IU fathoms water at its southern end. 178 LcrwEft oaliforkia. From Eaeenada pomt, which is 870 feet high, the coast recedes id a north-eastefly direction, forming a snng little anchorage, where yeRsels may anchor in 9 to 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, perfectly sheltered from all winds, except those from tbcr Boath-west. From the west end of the ssnd-beaeh, where it joins the bloffs of Eucenada point, the land sweeps aronnd to the sonfhward and westward to point Banda, which i^ 8| miles distant, and is the southern limit of Todos Santos bay. The land at the head of the bay is low and sandy, and the soundings, at the distance of one mile, artf 8 to 6 fathoms. The geographical position of the anchorage at the noi-th-east eofner of Todos Santotf bay, aocordmg to Com. Dewey, Uescanso bay^ Sngar-loaf rock in the middle of the bay bears S.E^ i E. 2^ miles from Descanso' point ; it is a small low rock about 15 feet bi,^, and aj^arantly the only danger here- about. There is an anchorage southward c^ the roek which i» often used by the smal) coastenr. Boundary Monument. — About 16j miles N.W. by N. from Descanso point is a table bluff rising from the low land south of San Diego bay, upon which is a monumeni marking the western point of the boundary between Mexico and the Biiited States. It consists of an obelisk of white marble, about 20 feet in height, resting u[)on a pede8tal.r It stands near the edge of the bluff, about 200 yants frooa the shore, and its position is lat. 82° 81' 58", long. 117° 6' 11". Theuce the const is low aud A\t, running N. by W. for about 7 miles, and then curving gni-Tuitlfy westward until it is nearly East and West at the entrance of San Diego bay. lu tint interior arc high mountains^ Between Descanso point and the mominieut the coast is gcncmlly bl'ui)', 50 to 80 feet high, with a range of hilU about 500 feet high » few miles inland and a range of moun- tains at the back of tbem. One of these, the Table mouutuin, 2800 feet high, \9 remarkable ; another, a triple-peaked mountain a few miles south, is 2700 feet high. OOBONAOOB xsaTS. — These roeky islets, belonging to Me»iee,'lie about 7 miles frony the coast ; the largest of them is ia lat. 82° 28' 4(V', long. 117° 18' 21 '. They fornr a group of high, botd, and abrupt roeks and islets, of which thclttrgeBt(16 miles S. by E, fi*iHn ]>oiut Loma, San Diego) is aboat 2^ miles in length by a third of a mile in breadth, lying in a N.W. and S.E. direction. It is a wedge-shaped mass, 800 feet high, entirely destitute of treeti. At about a quarter of a mile eastward of the islet there is anchorage ; and, there is but one landing place upon it, which is difficult. On the west and north-west sides of the large islet, half a mile distant, are twv SAN DIEGO. 179 stuailer ialets, or rather masses of rock about 50 feet high, and destitute of vegetatidu. Bxcellent anchorage is said to exist in the vicinity. Another islet, the outermost, lies N.W. by W. distant 2^ miles from the large islet ; it is a hugh barren rock, about a mile in extent; tvith a very sharp summit. Point Loma and XAght. — Point Loma is the termination of a remarkable narrow spur of coarse, crumbling sand-stone, which rises South of Puerto Falso, or False bay, and west of the town of San Diego, to the height of 800 fe6t, and after stretching south for about 5^ inilesi gradually increasing in height to 422 feet, terminates very abruptly; It is covered with coarse grass; cacti, wild sage, and low bushes. Upon point Loma is a lighthouse, consisting of a dark grey tower, from which is exhibited a. fixed white light, at 492 feet above the Sea, visible 25 miles. Its geographical position is lati 82° 40' 14", long. 117" 14' 88".* BAN Dmoo. — The port of 3an Diego is formed on the nest side by a bold projecting point of land, of which the southern extiremity is named point Loma ; and, on the east side by low flat land covered with thick bushesand grass, named the ' island ', although it is really a peninsula — being connected to the eastern shore by a very low and narrow strip of beach.f Next to that of San FrunciscU, no hai^bour on the Pacific coast of the United States approximates in excellence that of the bay of Sau Diego. It is readily distinguished^ easily approached, and a depth of 22 feet can be carried over the bar, which is three- quarters of a mile east of the southern extremity of point Loma, and between it and the tail of the Zuniuga shoal: The width of the bar is about 8 cables from the outer to the inner 5-fathom lines; Vessels coming from ndrth-westward make the ridge of point Loma as a long, flat- topped island, when about 25 iniles distant. This appearance is occasioned by the bay to thd south-west, by the low land to the north-east, and by the Puerto Falso at the north; A thick field of kelp lies along the western shore of point Loma; the inner edge being but one mile ofi* shore, and having a breadth of half a mile; The outer edge marks the line where the depth of water suddenly changes from 20 to 10 fathoms. The field couiraencre oft' the b.ar at the entrance to False bay, and stretches southward *i'i miles south of point Loma; Approaching the south end of Loma, along the outer vd^e of the ktilp, puss through a ])artial break in it, and when the point bears N;Ei Ih- l<)., distant U niiieSi keep tilung the northern edge of the kelp in 4^ fathoms, and about half n niilu from the point; I * The longitiKlo above ion Qiispar de Zuaiuga, Ooaut de Monterey, despatched th* expedition. SAN DIEQO. 181 I at New San Diego, after contracting to a trifle over half a mile, it again expands to about 1^ miles, with low shores and extensive marshes and flats. Tides. — At La Playa the corrected establishment is 9h. 88m. The mean rise and fall of tide is 3*7 feet ; of spring tides 5 feet ; and of neap tides 2*3 feet. The mean direction of the flood is 6h. 25m. ; of the ebb 6h. ; and of the stand Oh. 30m. The following remarks on San Diego harbour are by Mr. Davidson, Chief of the U.S. Coast Survey on the Pacific Coast (1871). " There is a depth of 22 feet water on the bar at the mean of the lowest low waters. The average rise and fall of tide is 3*7 feet. The average rise and fall of spring tides is 5-0 feet ; of neap tides 2-3 feet. The width of the channel over the bar, carrying the foregoing depth, is about 600 yards ; the distance across the bar, between 100 and 200 yards. San Diego compares very favourably with other harbours on this coast. On San Francisco bar there is a depth of 5.^ fathoms ; on Humboldt bar, generally over 8 fathoms, but sometimes not over 15 feet ; on the Umpqaa bar, 12 to 18 feet ; on Coos Bay bar, 7 to 12 feet; on the Columbia river bar, 4^ fathoms ; on Shoal water Bay bar, 4^ fathoms. All these bars change much, except that of San Francisco; and although the Columbia River bar has more water than that of San Diego, its advantages are partially counteracted by the frequently heavier swell, and the greater difficulty of running iu by the landmarks. The depth of water on San Diego bar compares favourably with the depth on the entrances to Atlantic harbours. Boston has about 18 feet; New York, 23}; Phila- delphia, 18} ; Charleston, Mobile, and New Orleans, less than 18 feet. There is a noteworthy fact in relation to the depth of water on the bar of San Diego bay ; a comparison of the surveys of Dalrymple, in 1782, and Vancouver, in 1793, and the last United States Coast Survey examinations, shows no change to have taken place since the former date. The bottom is uniformly good. No rocks have been discovered in the bay or approaches. The position of San Diego bay with relation to point Loma is such that there is rarely much swell on the bar; in summer there are not many days of heavy S.E. weatlicr. As a rule there is less swell on this bar than on any other bar on the Pacific coast. I consider the approaches, the channel, and the facilities of entering and leaving, good, at all ordinary seasons, for all vessels not drawing over 20 feet of water, and at high water for vessels drawing 22 feet. Large vessels can go about 7 miles up the bay — reckoning from Ballast point — with an average width of channel of 4 cables between the 4-fathom lines at low water. This indicates sufficient capacity to accommodate the wants of a large commerce. The course of the channel within the bay is a regular curve, and buoys are needed on each side of the channel, from La Playa to Kimball's wharf. There is less rain, fog, and thick haze, and more clear weather in this vicinity than at all points to the northward, and the entrance is less difficult to make and enter on that account." (Met: Mar. Mag., 1871, p. 282). Captain Sir E. Belcher, R.N., has obierved "Port San Diego, /or thelter, deserves m COAST OF CALIFORNIA. all the commendation that previons navigators have befltowed on it, and with good tackle, a vessel may be perfectly land-locked. The holding groand is stubborn, bat in heavy southerly gales I am informed anchors 'come home,' owing to the immense volume of kelp driven into the harboar. It was stated to me by an old sailor in this region, that he has seen the whole bank of fucus ^aniens (which comprises a tongna of 8 miles in length by a quarter broad) forced by a southerly gale into the port. This, coming across the bows, either causes the cable to part, or bring the anchor home. No vessel, however, has suffered from this cause. Th« chief drawback is the want of fresh-water, which, even at the prosidio, 8 miles from the port, is very indifferent." Commander Wilkes, U.S. Navy, observes as follows — " Port San Diego is of con- siderable extent, being, in fact, an arm of the sea. It is 10 miles long, and 4 miles wide, and, from being land-locked, is perfectly secure from all winds. The entrance is narrow and easily defended, and has a sufficient depth of water, 20 feet at lowest tide, for large vessels. The tide rises 5 feet. The tongue of kelp off the entrance uf the bay must be avoided by large vessels, but small ves:>el8 may pass through it with a strong breeze. During gales, this kelp is toni up and driven into the bay, where it becomes troublesome to vessels by the pressure it brings upon them, ^ther causing them to drag their anchors or part their cables. There are many drawbacks to this harboqr ; th^ want of water is one of them, the river which furnishes the mission with water disappearing in the dry season before reaching the bay; and, the surrounding country may be called a barren waste of sand- hills. The town is situated on the north side of the bay, on a sand flat 2 miles wide. The mission establishment is 7 miles from the town, up a valley to the nnrtheast ; and hore, there is a good supply of wate^ the year round. This river, in the rainy season, discharges a considerable quantity of water into ihc h»y, bringing with it much sand, which has already formed a bar across a part of Win bay, rendering it useless, and well grounded fears may be entertained that it v'\\l eventually destroy this harbour also ; this occurrence, however, may he prevented at slight cost. The whole country around San Diego is composed of volcanic sand and mud, mixed with scoria. The land is unfit for cultivation, and covered with cacti, one of the many evidences of the poorness of the soil ; this leaves the port of San Diego little to recom- mend it but the uniform climate, good anchorage, and security from all winds." raise Bay.— At the north eua of the ridge of point Loma is an extensive shoal bay oalled Puerto Falso, or Fals?i bay. The bar at its entrance lies N. by W. i W., distant 5^ miles from the southern extremity of point Loma ; and having but 8 feet of water, it can be crossed only in the smoothest weather. The entrance just inside the line of heavy breakers is about a quarter of a mile in width, but rapidly contracts to )ess than half that width. The northern point of this bay is about 2 miles in length, Yeiy narrow, and covered with low sand dunes. To the north ai^4 ^yest of this the flhore becomes compact and unbroken, except by the valleys of San Lui^ I^ay and pan Juan Oapistrano. From the southern extremity of point Loma the coast rons N. by W. for 22 miles j WHNxee to the east point of San Pedro bay, N.W. by W. i W. nearly 60 miles. p%^ %vAu Bay. — Tn the above extent of coast occurs themisvonofSanLuis Rey, the ^ree|t in Californii^, situated in about lat. 88° 17', long. 117" 29'. It is in a part q{ Face pa^eJ83. J' to a 11 M n III 17 liONDOM .JuaiH imrv ^ Son SAN PEDRO. IM 'tiid ooantty nnequalled for salubrity ami produetiTenesa, but the scarcely of rain a an insuperable drawback to its prosperity. The anchorage is very restricted and Kcarceiy ever vieited, as it is quite open to westerly aid southerly winds. Ban Jaan Oapiatrano, a mission similar to that of San Luis Bey, is situated in ' about lat. 88° 27', long. 117° 43'. The anchorage is rocky in soundings of less than 6 fathoms, and is unprotected *- the landing is also bad. The bay is formed by a high cliffy head to the north-west, and terminates in a southerly direction in low sandy beaches. It is stated that when entering it from north-westward some care is required to give the bluif point a wide berth, because some dangerous rocks lie off it to a con- siderable distance. Commander Wilkes, U.3.N., says " This bay has at its head a fertile valley, in which is situated the town and mission of San Juen. The bay is entirely unprotected and is a bad roadstead, the bottom being very foul inside of 5 fathoms, and the landing at times impossible, on account of the surf. It can be safely visited only during the fine season. Provisions and water are easily obtained ; the latter from tho icountain streams, which empty into the bay, and also enable the inhabitants to irrigate their lands by which mode of cultivation they are made extremely productive. The shore hero becomes quite bold, making the communication to the northward by the land very ineoiiveniout." From San Juau Capistrano to point Fermin, on the went side of the bay of San Pedro, tho distance is about 80 miles in a W. by N. i N. direction ; in the space between, known a^ tho Bahia dc los Troinblores, are several rivers (tho Santa Anna, Bolsas, and San Gabriel rivers), ulso tho landing wharf at Anaheim, a place rapidly rising in importance. Tho cliffs along this side of the coast are steep. Only very little water is to be obtained here, and tlie little that is required for the supply of the inhabit .nts has to be brought (\m a di.stauce in the interior. San Pedro hill, over point Fermin, is 1600 (eat high. volnt ruvmin Ught. — A fln^hing light is exhibited from a lighthouse on point Fermin, showing nUernato ,-fil aud white Jiashes at intervals of 10 seconds, each flash being followed by au eclipse. The light is 151 feet above high water and visible 19 miles. Tho t«»\ver, GO feet high, is square, of a light buff colour ; its geographical position is lat. 83° 42' 19", long. 118" 17' 87". Near the point is a rock with only 7 feet water over it. ■AW PBDRO. — This bay is formed on the west side by the high bold land of which point Fcrntiu in tho oxtreiuity, uud on tho oast side by the low coast of the main land. It is open to all poini.8 from S.W., by the souihwaid to S.E., and is consequently exposed to tho full foroo of tho winter gales ; but during spring, summer, and autumn, it is an exodlcut roadBload. A litllo ir,lot named El Moro, lies half a mile from the beach, and h,is close to its oast side a depth of 18 to 12 foot ; between it and the shore there is no passage. At about 20 miles in the iulerior, almost North from San Pedro, is tho town of Los Angeles, which is tho eonti-o of an oxteusive grazing, agricultural, and grapo growing country. Tho quantity of grapos, and fruits gonerally, shipped from San Pedro to San Francisco during tho proper season, is very largo. Puri»s tliA y»tivr 1875 the exports of San Pedro atnouutcd to 14,600 tons, among II n ■! -l IBi COAST OF CALIFORNIA. which were 7,000 tons of grain, 1000 tons of fruit, and 1500 tons of wool. The im- ports amounted to 21,000 tons (exclusive of 12,000 tons for the railroad). From point Fermin a line of bold bluff runs exactly north and south for about 2 miles, and averages 60 feet in height. Point Yiucente, the western point of the high land of San Pedro, is also bold and has deep water in its immediate vicinity. Vessels approaching San Pedro bay from westward through the Santa Barbara channel make Sai' Pedro hill, as nn island projected against the mountains to the southward and eastward. Approaching point Vincente, which is the south-west point of the hill, vessels can keep it close aboard, there being frcsi 50 to 80 fathoms within a mile of the shore ; round point Fermin within half a mile, in from 6 to 10 fathoms, and open the small island El Moro, run for that Island, and when abreast of the landing (readily recognized by the houses on the bluff), about one mile north of point Fermin, anchor in 8 fathoms, hard bottom, at half a mile off shore. Vessels must anchor a mile off to get 5 fathoms. Coming from the southunrd with northwest winds, beat in boldly until abreast of the landing ; keep the lead Roing imd anchor anywhere in its vicinity. Do not approach the low shore, to the north and east uf El Moro, closer than 1 mile, at which limit 4 fathoms water will be found. In winter, anchor farther out, and moro to the southward, in order to be able to slip the cable and go to sea should a heavy south-easter spring up. The waters of the lagoon, inside of the low sandy beach, and a mile or more north- ward of El Moro, find their principal outlet bet ween that island and the bluff point half a mile west of it. The entrance is very narrow and crooked, and has or had two buoys, about '^-OO yards apart, to mark it. In 1850 it was stated that the " bar at the r'Ai-Mic/o .o "jhe creek remains about the same, as it did in 1852. At moan low water, ij ..wuig -ii the half tides, only 2 foot of water can be carried over it." A small tow- boa- uow, wo bolievo, used for taking vessels to New San Pedro, situated about d miles inside the bar. Wood and tvatcr are not readily obtained, and charges are high. The beef raised here is remarkably tongli. The position of the lauding place, W.S.W. 5 8. from El Moro, is considered to bo lat. 88° 48' 20", long. 118" 10' 8". The conoctod establishment of the port is Oh. 89m. The mean rise ami full of the tides is JJ? foot ; of spring tides 4*7 feet ; and of neap tides 2-2 foot. Santa Anna lAtiioou. — At about 15 miles from San Pedro in an E. \ S. direction, 2*8 the Santa Anna lagoon wliicli roocivos the waters of tho Santa Anna river. Wlion examined in 1801 it >»iis found to bd 5 miles long, nnd separated from the oceaw by n, narrow strip of low saud boacli, over wbicli waslios dm hoiivy swell from tho no.'li 'vst and south-east. The lagoon has a breadth of onl} a li w hundred yards, and i mout'i about 60 yards in width, with a narrow bar, upon wiiieli it is Hupposed 10 or 12 feet of water might bo found at high tide. On this bar tliero is a very heavy break rt all fltngos of the tide, rendering it dangerous to cross in boats of any kind. There is said to bo no safe anchorage off tho entrance, and tho low straight beach, with a trend nearly east and west, affords no protection whatever. Tho Kan Pedro wind gap liee between San Pedro hill and the Sierra San Juan, to the Mutb-oa^t of the Ha'ta Anna, PORTS MONICA, HUENEME, &c. 185 and the snmmer winds di aw directly on the land, causing the north-west swell to roll upon the boach with great force. In winter the swell breaks square upon this wholo line of coast, and would prevent any vessel passing into or out of the lagoon, or riding at anchor near it. In summer the Santa Anna is said to frequently dry up before reaching the lagoon. Santa Anna lagoon is also known as Newport bay. 9Kontea Bay. — From point Vincento the coast trends N. by W. i W. 16 miles ; thence W. by S. to point Dume, in lat. 34°, long. 118° 42'. The curve in the coast thus formed is known as Monica \>^y ; at its head, in about lat. 34° 2', long, 118° 28', is a port bearing the same name. The trade at port Monica is small; in 1875 the exports and imports did not exceed 1000 tons respectively. Point Dume rises into a dome-like form 202 feet high ; the land immediately behind it falls away, so that in making it from westward it rises into view as an island close under the high mountains. Eastward of point Dume the mountains spring directly from the water. From point Dume to point Hueneme the coast trends about W. by N. 22 miles ; nearly midway between these points is Mugu point. Two miles westward of point Mugu is Laguna point, close under which is very deep water, the 10-fathom line running within 250 yards of the shore. Port Huenemo. — This port lies, we believe, a short distance southward of the point of the same name. It carries on a considoi'ablo trade ; in 1875 its exports figured a,t 10,500 tons. Foint Huenoma Light. — k fixed oaA. Jlashbifj light is exhibited from a lighthouse on point Hueneme, at an elevation of 54 feet above high water, visible 12 miles. It shows a fixed light for one iniitute, followed by six consecutive flasli.es of 10 seconds duration each. The tower, 4G feet high, is painted light buff colour ; its geographical position is lat. 84° 8' 39", long. 119° 12' 30". Being of slight elevation it shows very nvomineiitly against distant hills, I3etween point Mugu aud Buenaventura the coast is low, flat, and sandy, being the opening of the valloy of Santa Clara, through which flows the Santa Clara river ; this stream is nearly dry during the summer, and tormiuates in lagoons and marshes, but in the rainy season a volume of water is brought down having sulfloiout force to break throuah tho narrow sand boach and flow into the ocean. Tho eastern entrance to tho Santa Barbara channel lies between tho eastern end of Anacapa island and point Hueuonir-, which is about half-way botwoon point Mngu and Buenaventura. From Anacapa, point Iluouemo boars N.E. by N. J N., distant lOJ miles. Directly oft' this point is found a ronjarkablo example of a sub-marine valley, commencing with a depth of 10 fathoms, 2 cables from the boach, increasing jta 50 fathoms in about luilf a mile, and to 113 in loss than two miles. Its gonoral.dire* dot» is South, with a width of a milo, and bounded on oitlior side by depths of 12 and 15 fathoms. Tiio bent landing is directly on the point ; landing in the bight eastward and leeward of it is inipraticablu. Ban Duanavantura. — There is excellent holding ground ofl* Buenaventura in 10 fathoms, but tho landing is not good. The 3fathoin lino lies about a quarter of a milo oiT-shore. Tho mission of Buenaventura, situated at the foot of tho dividing ridge of tho valleys of San Buenaventura aud Santa Clara, about half a milo from the shore, was founded March fllst, 1782. Its position is about lat. H4" 15', long. 119" 15', J80 COAST OF CALIFORNIA. In 1675 the trade at San Buenaventura was as follows: — exports/4, 500 tons, imports 8,200 tons. The climate is temperate and the soil is remarkably fertile. At about 15 miles westward of Buenaventara, on the coast, there is a rich deposit of sulphur, surface specimens of which have yielded 60 per cent. Around the locality we ashes and scoria. The ground is hot, and the gas emitted is almost suffocating. 8&NTA BAXBABA. — From San Buenaventura the coast trends nearly W. by N. 23 miles to Santa Barbara. This roadstead is open to all winds except those directly from northward ; it is however i : i '^^ha^ sheltered by the islands Santa Cruz, Santa R' ^a, and San Miguel from tur - swell sent on the coast by south-west winds. The depth at half a mile from the iuh is 6 fathoms, and it is believed that no sunken dangers exist in the kelp which prevails in some provision along the shore. When there is any swell the surf is very bad. not falling square on to the beach but cutting it at a sharp angle ; at this time landing is difficult. There is anchorage within the line of kelp in about 4 fathoms, which is resorted to in summer, but not in winter, because at the latter season the gales detach and dri''3 it shoreward in such vast quantities that, coming across a vessels' hawse, it helps to bring home her anchors. We believe tiiat vessels generally put to sea when there are indications of a gale coming on from south-eastward. >:< A dangerous sunken rock lies 12 miles westward of Santa Barbara and one mile off shore ; it has only 15 ieet water over it with a depth of 7 fathoms inside it. The shore at Santa Barbara consists of a low sandy beach, which is terminated to the westward by a bold bluff, named point Castillo. The hill over this bluff is kuowu as La Vigiii. The usual landing placo is at about half a mile eastward of point Castillo. The shore is low and flat as far as the town, thrce-qniirters of a mile distant, but grad- ually rises to the mission, a prominent object about 2 miles inland.f The town is of considerable importance ; It is situated in the midst of a rich agricultural district, running east and west at the southern base of the Sierra Conoepoion, but of limited breadth. The trade with San Francisco Is not extensive ; but this being one of the greatest stock-raising districts on the const, vasts droves of cattle pass through and are sent to San Francisco and the mining districts. In 1875 the exports amounted to 2800 tons, and the imports to 5,500 tons. Regular communication by steamers and sailing vessels is maintained with Sun Francisco and other ports. Wood and provisions in abnndance can be obtained hero. Water is plentiful, but not so readily procured. Light. — As a guide to vessels approaching Santa Barbara fVom westward and south- eastward, a liglithouso has been erected on tho point, at about 2 miles Bouth-weotward from the landihg place. It stands 183 yards trom the edge of the bluff, and shows a fired white, light at 180 feet above the soa, visible 17 miles. Its position is cousidorod to bo hit. 84° 23' 44", long. 110* 48' 16". If approaching Santa Barbi^ra from uostunni and noitth-wMlunird, tha uill La Vigta VM (WiJ * See the plan of Bnnta Barbara on the chart of tho coait of Catifurnla, publiihcd by Mcsara. lUnAT JIMB SOK. t This mission ii abottt 200 feet above the sea. It was founded Deoember 4tb, 1786, and soon beoanie one of tlie largest and best establiahmontB of the kind in California, and in tlie gardeni Itttaoiied to it the gri\p« and oHre were ouUivated with great snooeu. „) * t.F. (180*»I .^tiiiMvSvtft^^ 2SS. la 14 .) I- 'I i^iy V i V ^ y t^vy.' •//Av^\jj^V.'i^^ SANTA BARBARA tV*!** {TUttmJ ja l« JS 14 M Iff ta HA. 17 ■ •X.i 'tf-^f 't^^ ^ LONDON _Jun»« liuriy «• Son. lac* pag€ 188. j^ti^lte^'i'V'^^^ 21'25'IT. '■A n r.ONUOM Jnim liurny * Son, SANTA BAIIBARA. 187 will be a prominent object. Steer for the hill, and upon approaching the anchorage keep ontside the line of kelp (here nearly half a mile wide) : gradually ronnd the point upon which is situated the lighthoase, and keep along the kelp until abreast of the town, off which anchor in 7 fathom?. Or, pass through the kelp and anchor inside of it in 8i fathoms, hard bottom. Ontside the kelp in 9 or 10 &thoms, the bottom is sticky ; vessels oooasionally anchor here. The approach to Santa Barbara from Mstimrd or sonth-mstward requires no special remarks. Vessels may pass either eastward or westward of Anacapa island. Captain John Hall's experience of Santa Barbara agrees with the foregoing — " this bay is only sheltered from the N.W. winds, being exposed to the South and S.W. The anchorage is not very good, being hard sand, and overgrown with sea-weed. We had such a quantity of this on our anchor when we hove it up, that it entirely impeded the ship's progress until we got it clear. We found no tide or currents, but there appeared to be a rise and fall, in-shore, of about 2 fVet. All kinds of provisions are cheap here, as also fruits, viz. — grapes, pears, apples, and plums, in the season." Vancouver has remarked of Santa Barbara, " To sail into the bay requires but few directions, as it is open, and without any kind of interruption whatever ; the soundings on approaching it are regular, from 15 to 8 fathoms ; the former, from 1^ to 2 miles, the latter within 1^ cables' length of the shore. Weedi were seen growing about tho roadstead in many places ; but, so far as we examined, which '^as only in the vicinity of our anchorage, they did not appear to indicate shallower water, or a bottom of a different nature. The shoros of the roadstead are far the most part low, and terminate in sandy beaches, to which, however, its western paint is rather an exception, being a steep cliff, moderately elevated." Th« COAST. — From the lighthouse at Santa Barbara the coast trends W. by S., Q7 miles to point Goncepcian. At a very short distance behind the coast is a range of rugged hills, over 2(J00 feet high, farming part of tho Sierra Conoepcion (sometimes called the Sierra San Inez), whoso sides are sparsely covered with timber, and through some of whose gullies and gorges pass small streams abounding in the finest trout ; from others issue warn^ springs having a temperature of about 117° Fahrenheit, and highly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen ; — these springs are behind the village of Montecito, eastward of Sapta Barbara, and by barometric measurement are about 1200 feet above the sea. At about 8 miles westward of Santa Barbara is a large bitumen pit, which empties directly into the sea, and the bitumen, floating on the water, works offninst the summer or north-west winds even beyond point Goncepcion. Very frequently, in calm weather, a great extent of the surface of the channel becomes iridescent from the thin film of bitumen spread over it. The rocks along the shore, even westward of point Goncepcion, are covered with it. Sulphur, in large bods and of superior quality, also exists along the seaboard, and manifests itself in all the warm springs. xi ooxo. — At about 2 miles eastward of point Goncepcion is the anchorage of El Coxo, off the entrance to tho valley of that name. This anchorage is better than that off Santa Barbara, and the kelp is not so compact. When approaching it from westward, pass poii^t Goncepcion at the distance of about three-quarters of a ntile, steer {), b^ N. and gradually round the bluff w!iich is a mile East from the point, givirg it 188 COAST OF OAUFORNIA. . a berth of half a mile ; run on a N.N.E, course for three-quarters of a mile, \rhen the valley will open with a sand beach o£f it. Anchor outside cr inside the kelp, according to the choice of depth ; 5 fathoms baing obtained within a quarter of a mile of the shore, with hard, sandy bottom. At half a mile from shore the depth is 10 fathoms. 7here is a large ri^noho ^t ill Coxo, and it is one of the very best tracts for grazing. The beef has a finer flavour and more delicacy than any on the coast. At the head of the valleys and in the mountains is a species of large live oak, very brash when newly cut, but growing hard by seasoning. Willow, for fuel, and water can be obtained here, but neither in abundance. The water is disagreeable to the taste. voiHT coircsvoxoif is a remarkable headland, rising to the height of about 220 feet. It is so conspicuous and prominent an object, that it is said, when once seen it will never be forgotten. When made from northward, or from eastward, it rises as an island, but, a nearer approach, discovers it to be a high promontory, stretching boldly into the ocean, and terminating abruptly. The land behind it sinks comparatively low, and at first gradually, but soon rapidly rises to the mountains, which attain an eleva- tion of about 2500 feet. Between 800 and 400 yards south of the face of the cape is a large rock nearly awash, upon which some of the California steamers have struck in very foggy weather. Vancouver says of this point — " It is remarkable by its di£fering very much in form from tbe headlands to the northward. It appears to stretch out from an extensive tract of low land, and to terminate like a wedge, with its large end falling perpendicu- larly into the sea, which breaks against it with great violence. Off the point tbe current sets to tbe north in the early spring months." UKht.— The lighthouse upon point Concepcion is 35 feet high, and shows a light revolving every thirty seconds at 250 feet above the sea, visible 28 miles. The building is white, stands near the pitch of tbe point, and is considered to be in lat. 84" 2G' 52", long. 120° 28' 8". A steam fog- whistle, stationed seaward of the lighthouse, is Bounded in thick weather for 8 seconds every minute. From the lighthouse, Bichardson rock, off the west end of San Miguel inland, bears 8. i E. distant 22 miles; the east end of San Miguel island S.E. by S. i S. 26 miles; and the south-west end of Santa Cruz island S.E. by E. ^ E. 40 miles. Mr. Davidson of the United States Coast Survey says — "Next to the islands of the Santa Barbara channel, point Concepcion is the most prominent and interesting feature between San Francisco and the peninsula of Lower California. It has very justly and appropriately been termed the ' cape Horn ' and the ' Hatteras ' of the Pacific, on account of the heavy north-westers that are here met with on coming through tbe channel, with a great change of climate and meteorological conditions ; the transition being remarkably sudden and well defined. An investigation of the temperature of the ocean, north-west and east of the cape, would be highly instructive, as some character- istics would naturally be expected from the abrupt change in the direction of the mountains and coast line. We have frequently seen vessels coming from the eastward with all sail get, and light airs from the north, in a very little time reduced to short oanvftd qpon appcoaching the cape, and vessels from the north-west coming before a spanUing breM» Iqoso it within a few miles after passing the cape into the channel. I \ i ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA. 189 These last would be fortanate in reaching Santa Barbara in a day. We have knovrn a vessel to be 8 days working firom San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara, whilst a ten- knot breeze was blowing west of point Goncepcion. During some summer seasons the fog is almost interminable, but more particularly among the islands. For the space of sii weeks, with clear days and nights at the cape, the islands have been invisible ; rising, however, to an elevation of 1000 or 1500 feet, the observer plainly sees the summits of the islands over the sea of fog which envelope them. When the fogs prevail, they generally roll in from seaward at sunset, and clear away about 10 o'clock next morning." THE ISLANDS OF CALIFORNIA. Magnetic Variation in 1879 ; — At San Clemente, 14° E, ; Santa Catalina, San Nicolas, and Santa Barbara 14° 20' E. ; Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miijuel 14° 40' E. The annual increase is estimated to be about 8 minutes. These islands commencing with the southernmost are named San Clemente, Santa Catalina, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel. They are separated from the northern shore by the Santa Barbara channeli which is about 20 miles wide. When making Santa Barbara channel from northwestward, shipmasters readily estimate their approach in thick foggy weather by the peculiar odour of the bitumen which, issuing from the large pit already mentioned (page 187) as situated on the shore about 8 miles westward of Santa Barbara and floating upon the water, v • 'ci. against the summer windr. far beyond point Concepcion. This set westward is found to exist for about 4 miles from shore, and it runs at a maximum velocity of 1^ miles per hour; further out the current is variable, but oven there its greatest velocity is attained when running westward. From point Concepcion its direction is southward and westward, being doubtless influenced by a current from the upper coast. Vancouver directs attention to this bitumen, as follows — "The surface of the sea, which was perfectly smooth and tranquil, was covered v.ith a thick slimy substance, which, when separated or disturbed by any little agitation, became very luminous, whilst the light breeze that came principally from the shore brought with it a strong smell of tar, or of some such resinous substance. The next morning the sea had the appearance of dissolved tar floating upon its surface, which covered the ocean in all directions within the limits of our view, and indicated that in the neighbourhood it was not subject to much agitation." Sir Edward Belcher, in October, 1880, also observes — "Off this part of the coast, westward of Santa Barbara, we experienced a very extraordinary eensation, as if the m ISLANDSl OF* CALIFORNIA; ship was on firO. and ifter a very close investigation attributed it to a acent from th^ tbore, it being moro sensible on deck than below ; and the land breeze confirming this, it occurred to me that it might arise from naphtha on the surface." Among the islands, as far as San Nicholas, the current runs southward. On the Cortez shoal ft frequently runs against the N;W. wind at the fate of neaHy 2 miles per hour. At other times it has been found to run in an opposite direction with nearly as much strengths The rainy season here commences in the early part of November, and continued until the middle of March. The quantity of rain that falls does not average over 15 inches, but some seasons are marked by excessive drought; During the winter 8.E. gales prevail, and sometimes during the summer months southerly weathe'r will bring up hedvy raini oortes Banki— This bdlilc, ^Hthin the depth df 50 fathoms, has aH extent of about l5 miles ib & W. fay N. and E. by S. direction, its east end being in lat. 82° 24'i long. 118° 59' 80", and its west end in lat. 82° 82', long. 119° 17' 80". It has aii Itverago and nearly uniform width of 8^ miles. The bottom is hard, composed of white Band, broken shells^ and fine coral at the south-east portion; and sand, with broken shells, at the north-w<^8t. The shoalest and mont dangerous part is that known as the Bishop rock) which is 5 miles from the south-east tail of the bank, and has but 2i fathoms of water upon it. Around this danger the depth increases gradually, and in an extent of 2^ miles in the general direction of the bank reaches but 15 fathoms. Tbo rock is Considered to be in lat. 82° 25}', long. 119° 5', and from it the north- west end of the island of San Nicolas bears N.W. by N., distant 57 miles; and thd south-east end of the islpnd of San Clemente N.E. i N; 46 mileSi A shoal spot of 10 fathoms is also situated in about the middle of the bank; it is of limited extent, being only half a mile square within the 16 fathom curve. Its position is considered to belati 82° 26 j', long. 119° 10^', and from it the north-west end of San Nicholas bears N.N.W< i W., distant 54 miles; and the south-east end of Sad Clemente N^E. J B., distarit 50 miles. From the Bishop rock it beai'S W. J N., distant 6 miles. North-westward uf this shoal spot the depth is uenrly uniform at 49 fathoms for 7^ miles, and between it and the Bishop rock tbo depth is tiuifurm at abotit 48 fathoms. Upon the 6orleE bank the current is vaHable, frequently settiiig against the strong ~ N.W. winds with a velocity of nearly 2 miles per hour, and producing at all times a heavy swell, and even in moderate weather breaking heavily upon the rocks. When passing over the bank ut night its locality may be known bt the inCrtiesed swell. Id the detailed examination of 1856 it was found that the general set of the current wad southward and eastward, and the greatest velocity 1. J miles per hour; but no statement was made concerning tbo prevailing wind. The Cortez bank lies in the direct route now followed by the Panama and San Francisco steamships, and was discoverod by Captain Cfopper, of the steamship Cortez, in March 1858. His position was determined by bearings of San Nicolas and Sad Clemente, and was very close, being within a mile of the later and best assigned plaoe. He says that the water around it was in violent commotion, and thrown upf 911 CORTEZ BANK Nantieldet n 4 i ) 1 » » Soundings in Fathom LongU9'5'10"Vr. faa pug* 190 '53 58 LOUDON Jaiiies Imray 8; Sou SAK Oti^MENTE; m thidddnly in columns at regular intervals of 4 or 5 minutes. At ^rsi he thoug'il lid saw breakers ; and occasiunally the water broke as on a I'eef, but lie became confident that the disturbance was owing to submarine volcanic ageucj. The speeimeus of the bottom negative this ideai He found his depth of water reduced from 42 fathoms to Ui from whieh it is evident that he was on the shoal spot in about (he middle of the bank, and saw the water breaking upon the Bishop rock; — the same appearance thut he witnessed having been seen many times since by others, and the nature of the rocky bottom and depth of water supporting the assumption. The position of the bank was afterwards more closely determined by the commander of the steamship Pacijic; but in the Coast Survey operations the 10-fathom spot was found, and the survnyiug schooner used in that duty was anchored on it 5 days. Attention was subsequ itly called to a more extended exauiinatioin of the vicinity by the clipper ship S.S. BisliDp, of Philadelphia, striking (1855) upon the rock since called by her name, andy under unfavourable circumstances, two points of rock were supposed to exist, to which approximate positions were assigned. In 1856 the bank was sounded over to the extent of IBO square miles ; and from a consideration of the highly favourable circumstances under which this last survey was made, confidence is expressed that the point of rock above moLtioned is the only one existing ; but as it ia very difficult to find detaehed single points of roek below the surface in a sea-way, it will not be supprising if others be eventually found. At all events a prudent navi- gator will give this bank a good berth. Its existence forcibly suggests the probability that other submanne ridges lie parallel to the coasti 8AM CLuauiiiTa is a lofty bold island, the south end of which is in lat. 82° 49' 80", long. 118° 24' 15". From this point it extends 16 miles iu a N.W. by W. direction, with an average breadth but little exceeding 8 miles, and at the same time gradually decreases in height; its greatest ele I'ation is estimated to be 1500 feet. From ita south extremity point Loma, San Dirgo, bears E< \ N. distant nearly 60 miles. The island is very barren and neither vood nor water can be procured from it. The soundings around it show a depth of 80 to 180 fathoms ' )8e in shore^ except off the north-west point, from which a reef makes out about a .