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Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 873-4503

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32X

Vl>VKRTI»SEMfc)NT.S.

JOHN S. BOWEN,

No. U BUADK STBEET,-

CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST,

IMPORTER OF

Genuine English Chemicals and Drugs, French and English
Perfumery, and all gcnuinePatent Medicines of repute.

AGENT FOR PIESSE & LUBIN'S PERFUMERIES AND

TOILET ARTICLES.

PhyBicians' Prescripticus and Family Recipes care-
fully compounded from the finest materials.

ATTENDANCE AT ALL HOURS.

Canada Truss Factory.

GROSS & CO.

INEVNTORS AND MANUFACTURERS OF ALL KUTDS OF

INSTRUMENTS FOR PHYSICAL DEFORMITIES

WOBEBBS IN

BRASS, STEEL, AND IRON OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

22 St. JOHN STREET, WITHIN,

QUEBEC, C.E.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

JOS. LACHANCB,

Dealer in all kinds of Groceries,

AND ALSO IN

WINE & SPIRIT MERCHANT,

]¥APOLi:0]¥ YTHARF,

AND

NO. 3 FINLAY MARKET,

LOWER TOWN, QUEBEC.

lEi

Wholesale & Retail Grocers,

COMMISSION MEROHAMTS,

AND

MANUFACTURERS OP
SMIJFF, TOBACCO, &C., AC,

9 ST. JOSEPH STREET, & 17 CRAIG STREET,

ST. ROCH'S, QUEBEC.

I-

ADVERTISEMENTS.

G. & C. HOSSACK,

Grocers, Wine & Spirit Dealers,

CORNER OF

AWM AI«» CJARDEM STREETS,

UPPER TOWN MARKET,

e. E. FARE & BROTHER,

26 Craig Street,

QUEBEC.

Chemical Yeast,
Ground Spices,

Ground Coffee,

Roasted Coffee,

Snuff, &c.

Cut Tobacco,
Leaf Tobacco,

ADVERTISEMENTS.

MKIUJrlA^NT TA.ILOR,

No. 13, BUADE STREET,

Opposite the French Cathedral, Upper Town. Quebec.

1^" All ordore executed in the latest style, and at uuiderate pricoi.

PRIIVCE'8 HAIR-DR£I»S^ER.

NO. 10 ST. JOHN STI^EET, QUEBKC.

The largest and finest stock of Fancy Goods in one house

in Canada.

LOOK HERE !— SHAVING MADE EASY.

Have you evcr tried the finest and best razor strop in the world ?
Tr J those imported by W. & H. BANSLEY — the greatest strop cf
ihe age to keep razors in fine order. Try and judge for yourselvts.

REMEMBER No. 10 St. JOHN STREET !

THOMAS BICKELL,

IMrORTEll OF

China, Glass and Earthenware.

NO. 33, ST. JOHN STREET, U.T.,

QUEBEC.

ALEXANDER FRAZER,

GROCER,

CORNER OF ST. NICHOLAS k YALLIER STS.

Has always on hand a select assortment of Teas, Sugars,
and Liquors of the best quality, at the lowest possible
prices for cash, or on approved credit.

N.B, — All kinds of Syrups constantly on hand.

ADVSRTI8BMENT6.

ANTOINE RACINE,

MARCHAND EP ICIER,

VIN, THE, SUCRE, CAFE,

etc., etc.,

EN FACE du MARCIII^: JACQUES CARTIER,

Q UEBEC,

OPPOSITE THE CHAMPLAIN MARKET, CUL-DE-SAC,
(Near the Grand Trunk Depot.)

These premises were expressly erected for a HOTEL, and is
capable of accommodating One Hundred Boarders.

The SLEEPING ROOMS are large, well-ventilated, and are
furnished with every convenience.

The PARLOR and DINING ROOMS are v-ry commodious, and
fitted up in elegant style.

The OFFICE and RESTAURANT, on the giound floor, is sup-
plied with the choicest Wines, Cigars, &c., that can be procured.
Meals can be procured at all hours during the day.

5Ci"A Barber's Shop, conducted in first-class stylo, in connection
with the Hotel.

jr3-HourB of Meals :— Breakfast from 8 to 10 A.M. ; Dinner from
Iialf-past 12 to 3 P.M. ; Supper from half-past 6 to 8 P.M.

CAHD.-SAMl,.LArRisE flatters himself that the BIlITrSII AMERICAN HOTEL
M-ill be conductod in such a manner as to givo general satisfaction. Its central
Ijcatiun is also another advantage, being only a few minutes walk from the
Hanks, Custom-house,' the principal places of business, the Steamboat Landing
aud Grand Trunk Railway Depot. '

ADVERTISEMENT!?.

Incorporated hij Act of Parliament^ 1857.

ROYAL MAIL LINE,

BETWEEN

QUEBEC AND MONTREAL.

THE NEW AND SPLENDID STEAMER

Capt. 7. B: LABELLE,
WILL LEAVE THE NAPOLEON WHARF,

FOR m:ois5^tr:ea]i.,

EVERY

Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

AND THE

Cuptain F. E. COTE,
Every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday,

JLT :FO■u■I^ O'CXiOCk:.

^3^ Calling at BATISCAN, THREE RIVERS and SOREL. ^^

^ ^ I

FARES :— Cabin, $1.50

Steerage, 100

MBAIiS AND BBBTHS KXTKA

The arrangements of this Line are most complete, and the advau-
tagea presented to travellers unequalled.

Further information may he obtained at the Freight 0£3ce on the
Napoleon Wharf.

QuBBKO, May 11, 1864. J. E. DESCHAMPS, Agent.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

ii»i«mini.,

ST. LOUIS HOTEL,

NEAR DURHAM TERRACE, UPPER TOWN,

AND

RUSSELL'S HOTEL,

PALACE STREET, QUEBEC.

HOURS OF I![EAL8:

Breakfast, 7 to 11. Luncheon, 12 to 1.

Dinner, 6. Tea, 8 to 9,

Dinner in the afternoon for ladies and gentlemen
Mrno depart by the steamboats and evening trains.
A commodious Billiard Room attached to RusselVs Hotel.

OPPOSITE THE COURT HOUSE,

ST. LOUIS STREET,

^SJIgliOc

R. E. ABBOTT, Proprietor.

ADVERTISEMBNTH.

THOMAS POSTON,

Llxijf

WINE AND SPIRIT DEALER,

No. 25, BUADK STREET,

OPPOSITE JESUIT HARRACKy,

UPPER TOWN MARKET PLACE,

J- WHITE,

DEALER JN

COAL OIL, LAMPS k FIXTURES.

FRENCH CEMENT,

For mending Glass, China, Marbleware, &c., &.,

COTE D ' A B R A H A M ,

. QUEBEC.

ADVEIITISEMEN'ES.

LOUIS BOURGET,

No. 10, Corner of La Place and Union Streets,
Opposite Finlay Market Place,

AND CTIIKU fclTORE

CORNER Sr. PETEK ST. AND CIIAMPLAIN MARKET PLACE,

XjovLToa." ■X'ox^sT^jLaL, C^xitolooc

J. B. MOIilSSETTE,

No. 49 PETEll STREET,

GROCERIES OF ALL KI18

'S*

WHOLESALK AND KETAIl^.

i'l

ADVERTISEMENTS.

TADOUSAG HOTEL.

The above-named Hotel, the property of the TADOUSAG
HOTEL AND SIilA BATHING COMPANY,

Situate in the beautiful Bay of Tadousac, at the
entrance of the Eiver Saguenay,

WILL BI .Qi^IilB, f SI Tffl MMBM,

On the 15th JUNE next.

A STEAMER will ply DAILY between Tadousac and River
du Loup, in connection with the Grand Trunk Railway.

(1:;J» Through and Return Tickets, from all parts of Canada and
the United States and Tadousac, can be obtained at any of the
Stations of the Grand Trunk Railvray Company.

Qiiebce, May, 1864.

^ i,

>-.

THE TOURIST'S QXJIDE.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

SHEFFIELD HOUSE,

3, Fabrique Street, Quebec.

^ ■

HENRY SMEATON & CO

Direct Importers from tlie Manufacturers of

GOLD AND SILVER WATCHES,

CLOCKS, TIMEPIECES, &c.

Fishing Tackle,

Archery and Cricketing Materials,

Cabinet Goods,
Toys,

St)aps and Perfumery,

TABLE AND POCKET CUTLERY, SPOONS, FORKS, &a
Wholesale and RetaiL

♦

X^t£ xii

TOURIST'S GUIDE

TO QUEBEC.

BY GODFREY S. O'BRIEN, P.L.S.

♦

QUEBEC :
PRINTED BY HUNTER, ROSE & CO.

18G4.

Entered, according to Act of the Provincial Parliament, in the year
one thousand eight hundred nd siity-four, by Godfrey S. O'Brien,
F.L.fe., m the office of the registrar of the Prorince of Canada

CONTENTS.

Historical Sketch of Quebec ^^^V

Population ^

The Citadel , "f

The Esplanade .V..'.' '.'.'.'.',',[,] J 1

Stadacona Club House ..'.*.'.*.* it

Church of the Congregation .'.'.'.".*.."! \k

Laval Normal School f?

National School :J

St. John's Gate t^

The Baptist Chapel "*"• iJ

St. Patrick's Church '.'.'.'.'".'. !«

Catholic Institute .'..*.**.*.*.' 17

Chapel of the Holy Trinity .....*!!!.'....'.. \l

Congregational Chapel '. f i

Hotel Dieu ll

The figure of General Wolfe *.'*.'.'.*.'.'! J 2

Palace Gate '"] ^a

Artillery Barracks '.*.!..'.*...*.*.!! o?

Market Square *.'.,!.*.* o]

Roman Catholic Cathedral !!!!*..'.*.**.'.'.* 1 * "' * 0,

Jesuits' Barracks **.*.*.*.*.*.'.*.*!*,.'.* oi

Quebec Seminary and Laval UniversVtv*. '. ol

t^nglish Cathedral .....*. ol

Ursuline Convent '.'...*.'.'.*. ofi

Governor's Garden .*..*.'..*.*.'. 90

Monument to Wolfe and Montcalm 00

Place d'Armes ^^

Chateau of St. Louis .' o?

Court House ^?

The Recollets ^X

St. George's Hotel ' ^J

General Post Office t^

Bishop's Palace \'.'.'."\'.'.'.'.'.'.'.\\ or

Parliament Honse .' *, .*'.*.',' ok

Laval University ' f ^

Hope Gate *.!'..*!!*. 07

Wesley an Methodist Church . ' .* ,..,',', * .*,' [ * .* ' .' .' .* ' * * ] .' ] [ * [ * ' 3!

(

Vlll

CONTENTS.

rage.

The Jail 38

St. Andrew's Church . , — , 39

The Lecture Hall 41

The Music Hall 41

Theatre burned 42

The Masonic Hall 43

Quebec Literary and Historical Society 43

Morrin College 43

Chalmers' Church 44

St. Louis Gate '. 44

Skating Rink 44

The Glacis 46

('unada Military Asylum 47

Ladies' Protestant Home 47

St. Bridget's Asylum 47

The Plains of Abraham 47

Wolfe's Monument 48

The Battle of the Plains 48

The Martello Towers 50

The New Jail 50

Chapel and Convent of the Sisters of Charity 51

St. Matthew's Chapel 51

St. John's Church 53

Finlay Asylum 54

Monument " aux Braves " 54

St. Peter's Chapel 55

St. Roch's Church 55

Jacques Oartier Market 55

General and Marine Hospitals 55

Intendant's Palace-ruins 55

Church of Notre Dame des Victoires 55

Custom House 55

The Banks 50

The spot where Montgomery fell 56

Champlain Market Hall 56

The Drives 56

The Falls of Montmorenc y > 56

Indian Lorette 57

Lake St. Charles, Charlcsbourg 57

The Hermitage 57

Cap Rouge 58

Point Levis ^ 59

Ice Bridge 59

Chaudiere Falls 60

St. Anne's Falls 60

Trip to the Saguenay 62

1
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THE

TOURIST'S GUIDE

IX) QUKBEO.

. '^~'\^^^-^\^'\^'-'-\,*^j'-^\.

Quebec, the Dresciit Capital of Canada, is situated
inN. lat. 46" 49^ 12'', W. long. 71" 15' 45'', on the
left bank of the River St. Lawrence, about 400 miles
above the Gulpli, and 180 miles below the City of
Montreal. No place in Canada, perhaps in America,
is better worth a visit from the tourist, so beautiful and
varied is the scenery of the neighborhood, and so rich
is the city itself in historic recollections. Excepting
Jamestown, Va., Quebec is the oldest European settle-
ment on this continent, having been founded in 1608
by Samuel Champlain, a native of France ; Jamestown
having been founded by the English in 1607. Con-
cerning the origin of the name there have been various
surmises, some endeavoring to trace it to the Indian
tongues, others maintaining its derivation from the
Norman-French. Its site was discovered by Jacques
Cartier, the celebrated French navigator, who sailed
from St. Male, in Britanny, in May, 1535, with a fleet
of three vessels, the ffermma, the Little Hermina

TOURiaT'b GUIDE

and the Tlcrmcnllion, I JO, ()0, anil 00 tons respec-
tively. After crossing the Atlantic, he proceeded up
the St. Lawrence as far as the present City of Mon-
treal, then an Indian village called Ilochelaga, having
first stopped to visit another of their villages, called
Stadacona, which, at the junction of the Rivers St.
Charles and St. Lawrence, occupied a portion of the
site of the present City of Quebec. On his return
from Ilochelaga, Cartier resolved to winter in Canada,
and laid his vessels up on the banks of the St. Charles.
In the spring, finding his numbers greatly reduced by
scurvy, he abandoned the Little Ilermina, and returned
to France with his other vessels. During his stay in
Canada he met with great kindness from the natives,
who freely supplied his wants and attended his men in
sickness. These kindnesses they ill repaid by carry-
ing oif several of the Indians when they departed for
France. Despite its manifest advantages as a place
of settlement, no further notice seems to have been
taken of Quebec till 1608, in which year, July 3rd,
Champlain laid the foundation of the present city,
and erected a small fort close to the foot of the pre-
sent Mountain street. Under his judicious manage-
ment the young colony throve, and in 1620 he laid the
foundation of the castle of St. Louis, which for more
than 200 years continued the residence of the gover-
nors of Canada.

The following year saw the birth of the first native
Canadian of European descent, the son of Abraham
Martin and Margaret Langlois, christened, on the
24th May 1621, Eustache.

During this time Champlain had visited France,
and, returning to Canada in 1615, brought with him
four priests of the RecoUet order, whose convent,
erected 1620, was the first building of the kind in
Canada. The Recollets were followed, in 1644, by
a small body of Jesuits, five in number ; but for some'

'?■

•*

TO QUEBEC.

time the two orders did not agree. Strange to say,
the Recollet order was the first to become extinct in
the province.

After the declaration of war between England and
France, in 1628, Charles I. gave to Sir David Kerkt,
a French refugee, a commission to conquer Canada.
In July of that year, having previously taken
Tadousac, Kerkt appeared before Quebec, and de-
manded its surrender ; but receiving a spirited refu-
sal from Champlain, he did not attack the town, but
contented himself with cutting off its supplies. At
last, reduced to five ounces of bread per day for each
man, and seeing no prospect of aid from Europe,
Champlain capitulated. Kerkt then took possession
in the name of the British Crown, and installed him-
self as governor, July 21)th 1629. At this period,
Canada was deemed of but little value, and was
readily restored to France by the treaty of St. Ger-
main-en-Laye, 1632, and Champlain was once more
sent out as Governor. Dying in 1635, deeply lamented
by the colonists, his second term of ofiice was of
but short duration. Champlain displayed as Gover-
nor not only great talents as a ruler, but zeal for the
spread of the gospel, and a common saying of his was
" the salvation of one soul is of more value than the
conquest of an empire." It -was just about this period
that many of the religious establishments were founded
in Canada, which, as Janet Roy has well remarked,
" though they did little for the immediate improve-
ment of the colony, yet they formed the foundation
on which arose those morals and habits which still
characterise the French Canadians, and which demand
our admiration."

In 1663, the colony was visited by earthquakes
of a most fearful nature, which lasted for more than
six months. The descriptions by old writers would
lead us to think that by these convulsions many of

TOURIST'S GUIDE

the natural features of the country were changed,
new rivers and lakes formed, and old ones obliterated.

In Canada, as in till new settlements, the male
population increased much more rapidly than the
female ; ^and about 1665, a cargo of ladies from old
France were sent out on speculation. The collection
consisted of " tall, short, fair, brown, fat and lean.
It must have answered well, as, in less than a fort-
night, all of them had contracted matrimonial alli-
ances."

In 1672, Louis de Buade, Comto de Frontenac,
was sent out as Governor. lie was, perhaps, the
most able and energetic man ever entrusted with the
management of the colony. Unable to work in har-
mony with the other authorities in Canada, he was
recalled in 1682, but though several parties were
tried as governors, none proved equal to the task, and
de Frontenac was again sent out in 1689.

During the revolution in England which drove
James II. from the throne, the French having
espoused the Stuart cause, hostilities began between
the colonists of the two nations. In 1690, at an
expense of X15,000, a two-fold expedition against
Canada, by land and by water, was undertaken by the
English colonists. The fleet destined to attack Quebec
sailed from Boston under the command of Sir William
Phipps, an American by birth, and reached Tadousac
before De Frontenac was aware of their approach.
On the 16th Oct., the fleet appeared below Quebec,
and Phipps, in the names of William and Mary, sum-
moned the garrison to surrender. The young officer
by whom this summons was conveyed on shore was
received by De Frontenac and his full staff* in the cas-
tle of St. Louis, and received from the Governor a
most spirited refusal, with a declaration that they
acknowledged no king of England save James II.
The envoy asked for an answer in writing, to which

TO QUEBEC.

De Frontenac replied : "I am going to answer your
master by the cannon's mouth ; he shall be taught that
this is not the manner in which a person of my rank
ouglit to be summoned." No sooner had he returned
to rhipps' vessel than the fort opened fire on the fleet.
A sharp action followed, in which the flag was shot
away from Phipps* ship and fell a prize to the Cana-
dians, a party of whom, regardless of the fire from the
ships, swam out into the river and rescued it from the
stream. It hung for years in the church of the
Recollcts, till the building was destroyed by fire dur-
ing the great siege in 1760. The English were com-
pletely worsted in the action and forced to return, and,
to add to their mishap, lost, through ignorance of the
channel, eight vessels in descending the river. To
celebrate this victory a medal was struck in France.
De Frontenac died, November 1698, and his body
was interred in the Recollet church at Quebec. The
population of the city at this time was about 4,500.
In 1709 a plan for the conquest of Canada was
again projected in England, but was given up ; and
another expedition despatched against it in 1711 met
so many disasters on the way that it never reached
Quebec. This fleet, under Sir Hoveden Walker,
lost in one day, at Seven Islands, eight vessels and
eight hundred and eighty-four men. The fortifica-
tions of the town had hitherto been but rude, and in
1712 the merchants of Quebec presented the Gover-
nor with fifty thousand crowns to aid in strengthening
them. The population was now about 7,000. In
1769 was opened the memorable campaign which
ended in the surrender of Canada to Britain. The
daring and chivalric Marquis de Montcalm being in
command of the French troops, and General Wolfe in
command of the English. Wolfe first attempted a
landing at Montmorenci, where some French troops
lay intrenched. Here he suffered so sharp a repulse

TOURIST'S GUIDK

that ho despatched word to England that he despaired
of reducing Quebec that season. Afterwards he made
his bold attempt to land just above the town. In
this he fully succeeded, landed and scaled the heights
on the night of September 12th, and on the morning
of the 18th was fought the Battle of the Plains,
which decided the fate of Canada and terminated the
lives of both Montcalm and Wolfe. On the 18th the
city capitulated, and General Murray assumed the
command. In the following April, General Levis,
who succeeded Montcalm, marched against Quebec,
defeated General Murray, the English commandant,
close to the city, and laid siege to it ; but succors
arriving to the English, his efforts proved abortive.
By the Treaty of Paris, 1703, the possession of
Canada was confirmed to Britain. The population
had by this time increased to over 9,000. By the
terms of the treaty, the free exercise of their religion
and a continuance of French civil law were guaran-
teed to the French colonists. On June 21st, 17G4,
the first newspaper was published in Quebec. It was
called the " Quebec Gazette," and was printed half
in English and half in French, its subscribers at first
numbering only 150. This paper is still in existence,
and is one of the few really impartial papers in the
province.

During the war of independence, Quebec was again
a point of contest between the contending parties,
being attacked by the Federal forces, under Generals
Arnold and Montgomery, in 1776. Their design,
though bravely carried out, was rashly designed, and
resulted in the defeat of the Americans and the death
of both Arnold and Montgomery.

In 1806 a second journal, the " Quebec Mercury,"
was started, and it, like the " Gazette," still thrives.
From a number of it, published in 1809, we take the
following notice of the first steamer seen in Canada.

TO QUBBEf'.

In this age of univeiHul .stcain travelling it may provo
amusing :

"On Saturday morning, at eight o'clock, arrived
here from Montreal, being her first trip, the steam-
boat Aceonwiodafion, ^vitb ten passengers. She ia
the first vessel of the kind that ever appeared in this
harbour. * '^ She left Montreal on Wednesday

at two o'clock, HO that her passage was sixty-six
hours, thirty of which she was at anchor. « * *
She has at present berths for twenty passengers,
which next year will be considerably augmented. No
wind or tide can stop her. She has 75 feet keel and
Hi) feet on deck. The price for passage up is nine
dollars, and eight down, the vessel supplying provi-
sions. The great advantage attending a vessel so
constructed is that a passage can bo calculated on to
a degree of certainty in point of time which cannot
be the case with any vessel propelled by wind only.
The steamboat receives her impulsive power from an
opeft, double-spoked, perpendicular wheel on each
side, without any circular rim. To the end of each
double spoke is fixed a square board, which enters the
Avater, and, by the rotary motion of the wheel, acts
like a paddle. The wheels are put and kept in motion
by steam operating within the vessel."

Until 1791 Canada was governed as one province,
under the name of Quebec, but was then divided into
two governments, styled Upper and Lower Canada;
which division continued till 1841, when they were
again united, and the capital removed from Quebec to
Kingston. The sea c of government was subsequently
established at Montreal, but being driven from thence
by the riots in 1849, the "alternate system" was
agreed on by the legislature, and in 1851 the govern-
ment returned to Quebec for four years. At the
expiration of other four years it again returned to
Quebec, where it has remained till the present time.

TOUUIST'8 iiVllfk

In the months of May and Juno, 1845, Quebec was
visited by two most disastrous fires, which consumed
over 2,000 houses, and left many thousands of people
homeless. Government promptly aiforded aid to the
sufferers, and handsome subscriptions were raised for
them not only in the province, but in Europe and the
United States.

In 1848 gas was first introduced into the city, and
the water pipes laid in 1853, and this was accompa-
nied by a complete system of drainage ; and it is
worthy of notice, that since these improvements the
per centage of mortality in Quebec is less than in any
city of Canada or the United States, while previously
it was very high, especially in the summer.

The impressions produced on the visitor who ap-
proaches Quebec from the westward will differ widely
from those felt by the tourist from the east. To the
former nothing of the city is visible save the long,
straggling line of Champlain street, a small portion
of the Lower Town, and some few buildings of the
Upper Town — even the noble bluff on which the
citadel stands is not seen by him to any advantage ;
while to the latter are presented at one glance the
lovely valley of the St. Charles, the densely popu-
lated suburbs of St. Roch and St. John, and the Upper
Town, rising superbly tier above tier, and crowned by
its imposing fortifications, fully realizing the idea of
a "a city set on a hill which cannot be hid." The
principal divisions of the city, in common parlance,
are — the Lower Town, comprising that portion which
lies below the cliff and faces the St. Lawrence ; the
Upper Town, which includes all within the walls ; St.
Roch's suburb, containing all on the low ground
facing the St. Charles ; and St. John's and St. Louis
suburbs, which include all without the walls on the
high ground in rear of the city. For municipal pur-
poses it is divided into eight w^rds, each of which

TO QUEBEC.

returns three members to the City Council. The
Mayor is now elected by the city voters, and not
chosen, as formerly, by the City Council, from their
own body. Quebec returns three members to the
Colonial Parliament, denominated members for Quebec
East, West, and Centre.

The total population of Quebec, according to the
census of 1861, was 51,109, of whom 28,750 were of
French origin or natives of Trance, 11,346 natives of
Canada not of French origin, and the remainder
immigrants from various nations, of which Ireland
has furnished the most, i.e.^ 7,373, and Switzerland
least, 8. The French and English languages are here
spoken indifferently by the greater portion of the
people. Now and then, among the working classes,
may bo met a Jobin, or Lachance, who speaks English
"with a brogue and knows nothing of French ; or an
O'Brien or Kennedy, who speaks good French and
broken English ; and, stranger still, we have heard of
a farmer Avhose only language was French, though
his name, "Blackburn," and his horse, "Dundee,"
clearly indicated to what country he owed his origin.
The Roman Catholic Church musters by far the
largest number of followers. Of their proportion to
the other creeds we shall have occasion to speak when
noticing the various churches of the city. Within the
city the streets are narrow, short, crooked and in
many cases steep, John street, the principal business
thoroughfare, not being more than one thousand feet
in length, forty feet in w^idth, and its side walks only
three feet wide. Of late years, the Corporation have
tried to increase its width by purchasing ground
whenever a fire or the removal of a building has
afforded them an opportunity ; but houses here are
so substantially built, and fires so raro, we fear it will
be a long time before they succeed in carrying out
their praiscAVorthy object. We have said the houses

TOURIST'S GUIDE

are in general solidly built, Jind think that in this
respect no city in the province can compete with
Quebec, except Montreal ; but we regret we cannot
say as much for their beauty. For some time past
more attention than formerly has been given to the
appearance of buildings, both public and private, but
in general their appearance would lead to the idea
that, in past generations, the only emulation among
the designers was wlio -could construct the ugliest
mansion.

Such information as, wc think, may interest the
tourist, in regard to the trade and manufactures of
the city, we shall lay before them at those points
where they will probably prove of greatest interest.

The principal export of Quebec is lumber, but
large quantities of grain are also exported, and the
late improvements candied out by the Harbour Com-
missioners will, we doubt not, give great impetus to
this important branch of trade. Ship-building is also
carried on to a great extent, find gives employment
to large numbers during the winter months. At this
time, the navigation being completely closed, but
little business is transacted, the business of the year
being compressed into some six or seven months.
This produces a very marked effect on social inter-
course and the price of labour. During the sum-
mer all attention is devoted to business, and the
winter is devoted to gaiety ; and the labourer v;ho, in
summer, may sometimes obtain four dollars per day,
in winter often cannot get work at half a dollar, and
frequently has difficulty in finding any employment.
Much is often said by visitors of the non-progression
of Quebec, but its municipal revenue and trade returns
will show that, though it cannot compete with some
of the more newly-settled towns, it is now as pros-
perous as most of the older cities of the continent.
No mercantilo community has a smaller percentage

^f'

TO QUIBBC.

of failures, and its banking institutions have stood
unshaken in the various crises which have, from time
to time, convulsed both the eastern and western con-
tinents.

To its iniportanco us a fortress, Quebec, without
doubt, owes its greatest celebrity ; and the citadel of
this *' American (iibraltar" should be among the first
places visited by the tourist. For this purpose, he
must provide himself with a pass, which may easily
be procured from the office of the Totvn Major^ in the
Jesuits' Barracks (though usually they may be had at
any of the respectable hotels). The citadel is situated
on the highest portion of the rock, and is three
liundred and fifty feet above the river, and two hun^
dred feet higher than the Upper Town. The only
approach to it is by a winding road cut through the
glacis, which leads from St. Lewis street to the
" Dalhousie Gate." On presenting his pass hero, the
visitor will be furnished with an escort, under whose
guidance he may visit the works. We need not men-
tion the various buildings within the citadel, as they
will be pointed out by the guide on the spot. We
cannot, however, avoid calling the visitor's attention
to the magnificent view obtained from the vicinity of
the flag-staff. The extent of country taken in by the
eye, with the beauty, richness and variety of the
scenery, render this one of the most noble and striking
in the world. From the glacis o-f the citadel, on the
land side, tlie fortifications of the city — consisting of
a massive w\all about 35 feet high, covered by various
outworks, with a wide dry ditch and glacis — extend
to the cliff overlooking the St. Charles. Here, the
nature of the ground renders such massive works
unnecessary, and along the margin of the clifif the
works are of a much lighter character. A wall of
solid masonry, loop-holed for musketry, and with
embrasures for cannon, extends from this point round

TOdlllST'S OUIUE

tlic north and ou.st of the L'ppci' Towii, hii'l out in
such a manner ;is the jutting portions of rock have
rendered expedient. The ramparts inside these walls
afford delightful walks in most places, giving very
varied and beautiful views of tlie Lower Town and
the surrounding scenery, particularly on the west side,
and from the Grand Battery near the Prescott Gate.
These irorks have a circuit of about two and a half
miles, and arc pierced by five gates. One of these,
the St. Lewis Gate, is at the foot of the steep road
which leads to the citadel. Descending from the
citadel, may be noticed, on the left, the Military
Prison, and within the enclosure on the right, the
offices of the Royal Engineers. Close to this spot
the remains of General Montgomery were interred in
1776, and there remained till removed by his widow^
to St. Paul's Cathedral, New York, where the Ameri-
can Government have erected a magnificent cenotaph
to his memo^3^ This gallant officer had fought by
the side of Wolfe at the "Battle of the Plains", but
marrying an American lady, daughter of Judge
Livingston, he espoused the cause of the colonists in
the war of independence. The following account,
taken from Christie s History of Canada, of his burial
and the removal of his body, cannot fail to bo of
interest : —

" The remains of the late General Montgomery,
which had reposed within the walls of Quebec since
his fall before it on the night of the 31st of December,
1775, were this year, at tlio request of liis widow,
exhumed, by His Excellency's orders, and given up
to Major Livingston, a relation of that lady. The
exhumation was made on tlic 16th of June, 1815, in
presence of Captain Freer, one of His Excellency's
personal staft*, Major Livingston, and -a few other
spectators, under the direction of Mr. James Thomp-
son,- of the Engineer Department, who, forty-two

I i

TO QUEBEC.

years before, had laid the remains of the general in
the ground, with the bodies of his two aides-de-
camp, Chescman and MePherson, one on each side of
liim. The place of interment had changed its appear-
ance very consid(irably since 1775. * * * yij.^
Thompson, however, retained sufficient recollection
of the whereabouts he lay to dig for the coffin, and on
removing the earth it was inmiediately found where
lie had stated it to be. The following statement was
also made by Mr. Thompson: — *I, James Thompson,
of the City of Quebec, in the Province of Lower
Canada, do testify and declare that I served in the
capacity of assistant engineer during the siego of
this city, invested during the years 1775, 1776, by
the American forces under the command of the late
Major General Montgomery. That in an attack
made by the American troops in the night of the 31st
Dec, 1775, on a British post, at the southernmost ex-
tremity of the city, near Pres-de-Ville, the general
received a mortal wound, :ind with him were killed
his two aides-de-camp, MePherson and Cheseman,
who were found in the morning of the 1st January,
almost covered with snow. That Mrs. Prentice, who
kept an hotel at Quebec, and with whom Gen. Mont-
gomery had previously boarded, was brought to view
the body after it was placed in the guard-room, and
which she recognized, by a particular mark on the
side of the head, to be the general's. That the body
was then conveyed to a house immediately opposite
the President's residence, by order of Mr. Cramah<S,
who provided a genteel coffin for the general's body,
which was lined inside with flannel and outside of it
Avith black cloth. That in the night of the 4th of
January it was removed by me from the house, and
was interred six feet in front of the gate in a wall that
surrounded a powder magazine near the ramparts
boundiniij on St. Louis street. That the funeral ser-

TOUKIST'g GUIDE

rice "vras performed at tlic gruvo hy the Rev. Mr. de
Montmollin, then cliaplain to the garrison. That his
two aides-de-camp were buried in their clothes, with-
out any coffins, and that no person was buried within
twenty-five yards of the general. I am positive, and
can testify that the coffin of the late General Mont-
gomery taken up on the morning of the 16th of the
present month of June, is the identical coffin deposited
by me on the day of his burial, and that the present
coffin contains the remains of the late general. I do
further testify and declare that, subsequent to the
finding of General Montgomery's body, I Avorc his
sword, being lighter than my OAvn, and on going to the
seminary, where the American officers were lodged,
they recognized the sword, which affected them so
much that numbers of them wept, in consequence of
which I have never worn the sword since.

* Given under my hand, at the City of Quebec, Pro-
vince of Lower Canada, 19th June, 1818.

(Signed)

James TiioMrsoN.'

The tourist may now descend to the town. After
passing St. Lewis Gate, his most pleasant walk will be
along the ramparts, from Avhich he may still keep be-
fore him much of the view seen from the citadel. The
large, level, grassy inclosure, intervening between him
and the extensive range of houses, is the ^'Esplanade,"
used on many occasions as a parade ground, and al-
ways open to the public. During the summer months
the colors are trooped here once a w^eek. This cere-
mony occupies about half an hour, and affords the
visitor opportunity of seeing a large portion of the
troops under arms, and of hearing their fine regimental
bands. " Tattoo " also is beat here, three evenings in
the week, from nine o'clock till half-past nine. It
may aiford a pleasant stroll to those who do not dis-
like the music of drums and fifes.

TO QUEBEC.

On the Esplanade hill, at the corner of Ann street,
may be noticed the " Stadacona Club House," and, at
the corner of Dauphind street, the " Church of the
Congregation," in charge of the Order of the Jesuits.
It is a neat and plain building, of modern construction.
In rear of it, and facing Dauphind street, is the lofty
and spacious Laval Normal School, a perfectly plain,
but solidly-constructed cut stone edifice. This, like
many other educational institutions in Quebec, is un-
der the management of the Roman Catholic clergy,
from whose revenues it is chiefly supported. Lower
down the hill is the "■ National School," devoted to the
interests of the Protestant community. The gate at
the foot of the hill is called St. John's, and is the
great channel of communication between the city
proper and the populous suburbs beyond. Such a
narrow passage has long been felt insufficient for the
great traffic passing through, and last year consent
was given by the military authorities to enlarge the
gate. According to the new plan there will bo two
passages for vehicles, each nine feet wide, and two for
foot passengers, each seven feet wide. These. passa-
ges will be divided by pillars, supporting a groined
roof, and some greater architectural pretensions will
be given to the facing of the wall. Wo. hope soon to
see this much-needed improvement carried out, and
this inconvenient eyesore rendered an ornament, in-
stead of being, as heretofore, a nuisance to tlio city.

Crossing John street, and following the line of for-
tifications to St. Helen street, we pass the Guard
house and the numerous storehouses ond magazines of
the military dep6t. A short distance from the Guard
house stood the military Laboratory, till destroyed by
an explosion of powder a few months since. From
what cause this fearful accident occurred must remain
for ever a mystery, as all those at work in it were
instantly destroyed, save two, and they have never

tourist's guide

been able to account for it. From St. Helen street a
gate leads into tlie Artillery Park, in which are the
barraeks for that branch of the service. Another
street leads into this enclosure from Polace street, and
from this the best view is obtained. Almost opposite
this gate is the small chapel of the Baptists. This
sect has, during the last ten years, trebled its numbers
in Quebec, being returned in the census of 1851 at 51,
and in that of 1861 at 154. In this street (St. Helen's)
also stands the Roman Catholic church, dedicated to
St. Patrick. It was erected some years since, chiefly
through the exertions of the Rev. Mr. McMahon, to
supply a want greatly felt by the Irish Roman Catho-
lics of Quebec, of which boiiy he was then in charge.
The expense of constructing the building was defrayed
by members of the congreg-atioii. It was commenced
in the fall of 1831, and completed on the 7th July,
1833, in which year it was first opened for divine
service. Its front has no architectural pretensions,
being quite plain. The steeple, which is well pro-
portioned, measures one hundred and twenty feet in
height and contains a large bell, which was conse-
crated August 29th, 1841. The interior of the
church is well finished, the body containing a nave
separated from the aisles by pillars of the Ionic
order. A spacious gallery extends round three sides
of the building, and in the transverse portion is a
largo organ. This fine instrument was purchased
with funds subscribed by the Protestants of Quebec,
who, in Dec, 1834, raised X250 for the purpose.
This act speaks well for the kindly feeling which
exists between the various portions of this mixed
community, and shows in what high estimation the
Irish Romanists are held by their fellow townsmen.
The altar-piece, representing the Crucifixion, is from
the pencil of a Canadian artist named Legard. The
original dimensions of the church were one hundred

1
t

TO QUEBEC.

and forty-fivo feet in length by sixty feet in breadth,

but the rapid increase of its congregation soon required

its enlargement, and in 1845 its length was greatly

augmented. It contains seats for over fifteen hundred

persons, but on some occasions over four thousand have

been at one time within its walls. In the rear of

the church is the " Catholic Institute," established by

the congregation on much the same plan as the

Mechanics' Institutes so well known elsewhere. The

presbytery, or residence for the priests, attached to

the church, is a handsome cut-stone building facing on

St. Stanislaus street. The reverend gentleman throug]i

whose exertions these were built, died in 1851, deeply

lamented by all who knew him, both of his own and

other creeds. He is buried in the vaults beneath the

church. A fine full length portrait of him hangs in

the sacristy of the church ; it has been lithographed,

and there are few Irish Roman Catholics in Quebec who

have not a copy of it on their walls. A large plate let

into the flooring commemorates his name. On St.

Stanislaus street, also, stands the Chapel of the Holy

Trinity, belonging to the Church of England. It is a

plain cut-stone building, erected at the expense of the

late Hon. Jonathan Sewell, for years Chief Justice

of Quebec. The corner stone was privately laid in

1825, and the building opened for service on the 27th

November of the same year. It is 74 feet in length

by 48 in width, and, with the galleries, will hold 700

persons. It contains a nice organ. Its revenues are

derived chiefly from the pew rents, and the living has

been held, since its erection, by the Rev. Edmund

Sewell, a son of the founder. At the junction of St.

Helenas and Palace streets is the chapel of the Con-

gregationalists. The corner stone of this neat Gothic

edifice was laid July 29th, 1840, by the Rev. T.

Atkinson, then ministering to the spiritual wants of

that body. The interior is well finished and contains

TOURIST'S GUIDE

a good organ, and will accommodate 800 people. Its
frontage, on Palace street, is 58 feet, and on Helen
street CO, the height of the building 40 feet. The
numbers of this persuasion were, in 1851, 95 ; in
1861, 234. Passing into Palace street, we come to
the Hdtel-DieUy a large hospital under the charge
of the religious order of the Hospitalieres. Three
nuns of this order landed at Quebec, from France, on
the 31st of July, 1039 ; and the oldest of them, 29
years of age, was clioscn lady superior. Funds had
been provided in 1G31 for the support of such a con-
vent by the Duchess d'Aguillion, a niece of the cele-
brated Cardinal Richelieu. She and her uncle
endowed the convent with a rental of 1500 livres,
which donation they afterw^ards doubled. The day
on which these ladies landed was observed by the
colonists as a fite. The shops were closed and a
salute fired from the port as the Governor, at the head
of the troops, received them at the landing place.
They at once applied themselves to the study of the
Indian tongue, and commenced their labors of attend-
ing the sick by receiving several invalids, both French
and Indians, under their care. Their firet building
was a small house belonging to the mercantile commu-
nity, who then controlled the colony. In 1640, they
removed to Sillery, where they remained for four
years. They then erected their hospital on its present
site, and, until its completion, resided in a building
lent them by the Governor. On the 16th of March,
1646, they consecrated their chapel. This first
building was of wood and only 14 feet wide. Through
the donations of various parties, both in France and
the colony, the nuns were ena,bled, in 1654, to build
a solid stone edifice, which forms part of the present
building. In 1762, it was again much enlarged by
M. Talon, who, to show his respect for the original
founder, inserted in the foundation stone a plate

TO QUEBEC

f'"^

setting forth the circumstances of its 4i8tit ition.
Since then, it has received various adntions, " itil at
length it assumed its present form. Tii'^re arc ^*\vr%]
pictures throughout the building, among them the
following originals: — **The Virgin and child," b
Coypel; "The Nativity," by Stella; and "St
Bruno," by LeSueur, who is often called the Raphael
of France.

At the corner of St. John and Palace streets, a
small figure, purporting to represent General Wolfe,
may be seen over the second story of the store on the
right hand side of the former. When it was erected wo
cannot say. Hawkins says of it : — "It was set up in
honor of Wolfe, by an individual of more patriotism
than taste." The erection of monuments of a very
different nature have rendered it an almost forgotten
thing, few regarding it as anything but a sign post.
It is confessedly not an ornament to the city, but it
has stood there so long that every one who knows its
history would regret its removal.

Some five and twenty years have passed since it was
missed one morning from its elevated position. The
police in vain tried to discover who had made off with
the general, but all that could be ascertained was, that
in the evening he was there, in the morning he was gone.
The following is the outline of the facts, as told us by
one who knew something of the matter. A transport
was then lying in the river which was under orders for
the West Indies ; and her officers being on very good
terms with some young men of the city, resolved
to pass their last evening in Quebec with one another.
They met for dinner, and the small hours saw them all
happy together. Some one then proposed they should
do something to commemorate the night. But what ?
They were no new hands at removing knockers and
scrapers from doors, but such exploits were too paltry
for this carnival. They resolved to carry off General

TOURIST'S GUIDE

Wolfe. It was no easy matter, but in silence and
secrecy he was lowered to the ground. Having got
him down, like the man who won an elephant in a
lottery, they did not know what to do with him, but
concluded at last to send him to Barbadoes. Politi-
cal troubles had rendered the military cautious, and
the gates of the town were then closed at dark each
night, after which no one was allowed through them
without a pass, and it would not be easy to get him
past the sentry. A naval officer, however, even if rot
able to walk steadily, might go through ; so throwing
a cloak over the figure, two of them took hold of him,
and imploring him to "keep straight," got him in
•safety to the water's edge, and next morning the
Vesta sailed from Quebec.

Some few months afterwards the Mayor, while en-
tertaining a party of his friends, was informed that a
box had arrived for him from Barbadoes. The worthy
magistrate, having no friends there, was not a little
puzzled, but rightly concluded that the shortest way
to solve the mystery would be open the box. The licl
was raised and a coffin found within. Perplexity in-
creased ! AVhat horrid deed was to come to light ?
In haste the coffin lid was raised and the long lost
general was discovered. The right arm, which is ex-
tended, had been cut off to fit in the coffin. A full
account of his travels was also deposited beside him,
from which it was found that he had, meanwhile, been
elevated on a public house in Barbadoes, much to the
astonishment of the people there, who knew not from
whence he came. From Barbadoes he departed as he
had come ; none knew how I ! The Corporation of
Quebec had his arm restored, gave him a new coat,
of paint, and restored him to his former elevated
position.

At the foot of Palace street is Palace Gate. It is
by far the most elegant of the five exits from the city,
?ind has a very light appearance.

TO QUEBEC.

From Palace street, also, is the main entrance to
the Artillery Barracks. These buildings are about
600 feet by 40, and were partly erected by the French
in 1750 on the site of others which had stood there
previously. Passing along John street and up Fabri-
(jue street, we come to the large irregular open space,
now known as the Market Square. On the east side
of this ^pace stands the Roman Catholic Cathedral,
and on the west side the Jesuits' Barracks. The
former of these was built under the auspices of Mon-
seigneur do Laval, first Bishop of Quebec. Its length
is 216 feet, its breadth 108. Very little, if any, of
the original building now remains, it having been
altered at various times, and suffered much during the
siege under Wolfe. The iirst building on this site
was constructed in 1644, and was 100 feet by 30. A
steeple was added in 1655. The present front was
erected in 1644, at which time the interior was also
remodelled entirely. It has room for 4,000 persons.
In the organ loft is a fine organ ; and the choir is
furnished by the pupils of the Seminary. The follow-
ing pictures are hung in the building : " The Con-
ception," "St. Paul," by Carlo Maratte.; "The
flight of the Holy Family into Egypt ;" a delineation
of the Saviour on the Cross, by Vandyke ; " The
Nativity," after Annibal Carracci ; " Saviour mocked
by the Soldiers," Fluret ; "The day of Pentecost,"
by Vignon ; "Holy Trinity," by Blanchard ; and
two or three others. As may be supposed, the mem-
bers of the Church of Rome are very numerous in
Quebec. In 1851 they numbered 32,934; in 1861,
41,477. With the following remarks, culled from the
Leader, of Toronto, at the time of the publication of
the last Census, we quite concur : — " The Catholicism
of.Lower Canada is of an exceedingly mild and tolerant
type. If every people were as free from bigotry as
the French Canadians, the amount of religious rancour

TOURIST'S GUIDE

in the world would be sensibly diminished. This does
not arise from indifference, for there are few people
more truly devout than the French Canadians. A
superficial glance might k id a stranger to the conclu-
sion that the religious subdivisions of Lower Canada
presented excellent materials for chronic quarrels.
With the preponderance of the Church of Rome in
presence of so many denominations, there is less sec-
tarian bitterness in Lower Canada than in most
countries."

• The *' Jesuits* Barracks," as they are now called,
but more correctly known as the Jesuits' College, was
erected by that powerful order, subsequent to 1720.
The first members of this body who settled in Canada
arrived here in 1625. They were three in number,
named Lallemant, Le Breboeuf and Masse. Energetic,
persevering and talented men, they and their succes-
sors proved of great value in forwarding the settle-
ment of the country, and spreading the light of Chris-
tianity among the Indians. Nothing daunted these
self-denying men, and several of them suffered cruel
and lingering deaths at the hands of the savage tribes
among whom they so fearlessly ventured. The great
political power obtained by this body in Europe gave
great uneasiness to many of the States, and the order
was suppressed in Franco, by order of the king, in
1764. Their property afterwards became vested in the
Crown, and for many years the building has been used
to quarter troops in. L^ngainly as the great pile of
building erected by them appears to us, it was, no doubt,
thought by the colonists a magnificent structure. Over
the main entrance may still be seen the I. H. S., sur-
mounted by a cross carved in relief, and on the sum-
mit of the building the old iron vane, representing
the crown of thorns, still stands. A large garden
formerly occupied the place of the parade ground in
the rear, in which, until cut down, stood several of the

(

TO QUEBEC.

original forest trees ; and it was with deep regret the
inhabitants saw these noble trees, untouched by time
or decay, thus wantonly felled. The last member of
the order established in Canada died in 1800. In this
building is kept the Garrison Library, and the Town
Major's office is also here. On a portion of the ground
fronting on Anne street is the Commissariat bakery,
and several storehouses.

The '' Quebec Seminary " and the Laval University
should receive a visit from all strangers. The Semi-
nary was established by Monsigneur De Laval do
Montmorency, first Bishop of Quebec. Twice during
the lifetime of this worthy man it was burned, he es-
caping from the fire on one occasion but half-dressed.
The first fire took place in May, 1701, the second in
October, 1705. The last years of his life were passed
within its walls, after his resignation of the bishopric.
The chapel contains several valuable paintings by well-
known European masters. * * The flight of J oseph into
Egypt," by Vanloo, a French artist; "The interment
of our Saviour," by Hutin; "The adoration of the
Magi,"byBourieu; " The Ascension ; " "The Day of
Pentecost ; " "St. Jerome," by Philip Champagn($ and
his nephew Jean Baptiste ; " The trance of St. An-
thony," by Panocel d'Avignes ; " St. Peter's deliver-
ance from Prison," by De La Fosse ; " The Baptism
of Christ," by Claude Guy Halle; "The terror of St.
Jerome at the recollection of a vision of the day of
Judgment;" " The Virgin ministered to by Angels,"
by De Dieu ; " The Saviour and the Woman of Samaria
at the well," by Legrende ; a large painting of " The
Saviour on the Cross," by Monet; and "Uwo of the
Egyptian Hermits at Thebais." The present Semi-
nary is a large irregular pile of building, in some
places four stories, in some three stories high. Three
of the wings enclose a fine court, and a fourth faces a
large garden, which overlooks the Grand Battery, and

tourist's auiDE

commands a noble view of the river. The institution
was at first intended as a place of education for those
wishing to enter the Roman Catholic priesthood, but
afterwards its benefits were extended to all branches
of the community. Ever since its foundation this
institution has increased in usefulness and prosperity,
owing to the judicious management of its governing
powers.

Passing from the Market Square, by Garden street,
we next come to the Cathedral of the Church of
England, a large and substantially constructed edifice,
but built when less attention was given than now in
Quebec to the appearance of buildings. The steeple
is neat and extremely well proportioned, and in
general design similar to those on the churches of
St. Patrick and St. Andrew — of the three, that of
the English Cathedral is the most fir ished ; the height
of the spire is about 150 feet. The bell tower con-
tains a peal of eight bells, purchased some years since
by the congregation. The English Government pro-
vided funds for the erection of this church, which was
consecrated in 1804. His Majesty George the Third
presented it with the books for service, the altai'
cloth, the hanging for the reading desks and pulpit,
and the communion plate, which was first used on
Christmas Day, 1709. The length of the building is
135 feet and the breadth 73. H. K. H. the Prince
of Wales attended service here while in Canada, and
presented it with a Bible, with the inscription :

"To the Cathedral of Quebec.

la memory of

Snudar, August 19, 1860.

Albert Edward."

Several handsome monument have been erected within
the building, of which we can only notice that to the
memory of the Rev. Jacob Mountain, D.D., first
Protestant Bishop of Quebec, through whose ex-

TO QUEBEC.

9r,

ertions the cathedral was built. The monument
stands within the communion rails, over the spot
where the lamented prelate was interred. It is of
white marble, upon a marble ground, and the prin-
cipal object in it is a bust in full episcopal robes, said
to be a most faithful likeness of the bishop. Beneath
the altar, the remains of Charles Lennox, Duke pf
Richmond, Lennox and Aubigny, and at one time
Governor General of British North America. His
death took place Aug. 28th, 1819, from hydrophobia,
while on a tour through the upper province. By some,
this attack was attributed to a bite from a tame fox,
with which he was playing ; by others, to his suffering
a pet dog to lick his chin, which he had cut while
shaving. This last event took place five months
before his death. Within the enclosure of the church
railings, near Garden street, stood the last old forest
tree left in Quebec, until blown down by a violent
gale in July 1857. In the cathedral grounds stan Is
the Rectory of the church, the corner stone of which
was laid by the Bishop, July 12th, 1841. Attached
to, and communicating with the Rectory, is the
Chapel of " All Saints," used for occasional services,
when the congregation is not so large as to require
the larger cnurch. It was consecrated November 1st,
L844. The interior is neat, though plain. It is one
of the very few churches, if not the only one, in
Canada in which the reading-desk carved as an eagle
with outspread wings is to be seen. This is emblem-
atical of St. John, and such desks in England, mostly
of the fifteenth or seventeenth centuries, are usually
of brass.

The members of the English Church numbero<l
3,489 in 1852 ; they have since then increased to
5,740, according to the last census. Besides the
cathedral, there are four chapels belonging to the
English Church in Quebec, of which we shall speak

TOURIST'S auiDii:

at length when near their respective localities. The
cathedral is built on ground formerly the property
of the Recollet or Franciscan order.

Proceeding towards Louis street, by Parloir street,
we next come to the extensive buildings of the Ursu-
line Convent. This establishment, like that of the
Hospitalieres, owes its foundation to the bounty of
private parties, of whom the chief was Madame de
la Peltrie, a young widow of rank and fortune ;
who, in company with three other members of the
order, arrived in Canada in the same fleet as the first
nuns of the Ildtel-Dieu, whose landing, in 1639, we
have already spoken of. Their original intention had
been to instruct the children of the native Indians ;
but this they found impracticable, and after some
time they reluctantly abandoned the work. In 1641
the Ursulines built their first convent, which stood
close to the present building, and was of wood. This
building was destroyed by fire during the winter of
1650, and the nuns had for a time to take refuge
with those of the Hotel-Dieu. The convent was
rebuilt as quickly as possible, and was again des-
troyed by fire in 1686. On this occasion the nuns
were again sheltered in the H6tel-Dieu. The present
building, which fronts on Parloir street, has in the
rear extensive grounds, occupying most of the block
enclosed by Louis, Anne, Ursule, Parloir, and Garden
streets. The chapel, which opens on Parloir street,
is ninety-five feet long by forty-five feet broad, and,
though perfectly plain without, should receive a visit
from all strangers. It contains a few good pictures.
The " Mater Dolorosa," by Vandyke; " The Saviour
at meal in Simon's house," " The Saviour," by
Champagnd ; and " The capture of Christians by
Algerine pirates," by Restout. In this chapel, after
the siege of 1760, the remains of the gallant though
unfortunate Montcalm were interred ; and in it two

TO QUEBEC.

monuments have been erected to his memory : one
by Lord Aylmer, when Governor General of the
Province — a plain marble slab, let into the wall, and
bearing the following inscription : —

Honneur

Montcalm !
Le destin en lui derobant

La victoire

L'a recompense

par une mort glorieuse !

The other is a handsome mural monument, erected
by th^ nuns of the order, and placed over the very
spot where the hero died. The ladies of this order
devote themselves to the instruction of girls, of whom
they have under their charge, at all times, a large
number from all classes and creeds of the community
in general ; some as day scholars, others as boarders.
Here, a first-class and highly-finished education is
given for a sum for which the merest rudiments could
hardly be obtained elsewhere. The Ursuline nunnery
is cloistered, that is, its members are not permitted
to go out from its walls, nor are men ever admitted
within them. We know of but two cases in which
one of the sterner sex has penetrated within its pre-
cincts. One was the present Prince of Wales, who,
as one of the royal family, was privileged to visit the
institution, and who, during his visit to Canada, was
received most cordially by the ladies of the order and
their young flock. We regret that our space will not
permit us to give the details of his most interesting
reception. The other party to whom we alluded is a
gentleman of our acquaintance, who found an oppor-
tunity to get within the gates on this wise :

During the rebellion of 1837, several political pris-
oners were brought to Quebec and lodged in the cita-
del for safe keeping. On the night of October 15th,
1838, two of them, Theller and Dodge, executed a

TOURIST'S aUIDE

V 1

most daring and successful escape from the fortress.
On their absence being discovered next morning, it
Avas soon ascertained they had not got beyond the
walls, and an active search was made for them through
the city. Some parties who resided on St. Ursule
street were known to be not over loyal to the govern-
ment, and as the convent grounds joined the rear of
these buildings, it was resolved to search the gardens,
lest they should have hidden there. For this purpose
II body of troops were admitted, and our friend being
short and boyish-looking, slipped in among them. Once
in, he concealed himself among some shrubs until the
soldiers had departed, and then issued forth to inspect
the unknown regions. He got into the building, and
rambled through some passages without seeing any one.
Growing bolder, he ventured into a room ; some fe-
males were at work, but on seeing him, fled screaming.
He retreated rapidly, but soon lost himself in the pas-
gages, and, as none of the females he met remained
after seeing him, he began to fear he should never get
out. At last, some more courageous than the rest
ventured to approach the strange monster, and being
taken before the Lady Superior, he was dismissed,
with a warning not to intrude uninvited into such
buildings again.

The next spot to which we direct the tourist's at-
tention is the " Governor's Garden," a favorite resort
of the citizens during summer. The grounds are
neatly laid out, and the military bands generally per-
form here during the summer. A very handsome
monument, to the joint memory of Wolfe and Mont-
calm, was erected here in 1828. The erection of this
noble column is due in a great measure to the exer-
tions of Lord Dalhousie, who contributed most hand-
somely to its funds. Its dimensions are as follows :
to top of sur-base 13 feet ; above this the sarcophagus,
7 feet 3 inches ; the obelisk, 42 feet 8 inches ; the

TO QUEBEC.

i
ll

1 /

J
r

apex, 2 feet 1 inch; making a total altitude of
65 feet.

It had long been felt that some such tribute to those
heroic men was due from the citizens of Quebec, and,
in November, 1827, Loi'd Dalhousie called a public
meeting at the Chateau, to consider what move could
be made in the matter. Subscriptions to the amount
of <£500 were raised on the spot, and the work was
completed the year following. The first stone was
laid with Masonic honors on the 15th November, 1827,
in presence of the Governor General, the troops then
in garrison, and a large concourse of spectators.
Among those present none created a deeper interest
than Mr. Thompson (the same who interred Mont-
gomery), the only one remaining alive in Canada of
the gallant band who fought with Wolfe in 1760.
This gentleman, then in his 95th year, was a member
of the Masonic body, and as P. Dy. G. assisted in the
Masonic ceremony. He died in 1830, aged 98, and
by strange coincidence, the senior regiment in garri-
son, which furnished the band and firing party for his
funeral, was one of those which had taken part in the
battle of the Plains. The design for the monument
was by Capt. Young, 79th Highlanders, and the

inscription —

Mortem, Virtus, Communem,

Famem, Historia,

Momentum, Posteritas

Dedit.

was from the pen of Dr. Fisher. The marble slabs
on which the subscriptions are cut were presented by
Lord Dalhousie, and we must not omit to mention
that at the meeting held to consider the erection of
the monument, his lordship stated that a handsome
sum in aid of the funds had been offered from Ncav
York, which he had accepted. We regret we cannot
learn the amount thus tendered by our *' American
cousins."

tourist's GtJIDE

Leaving the garden by thfe small gate south of the
monument, we descend Des Carrieres street to the
Place d' Armes, first noticing, on the south side of the
street, the lower garden with its battery of light guns
commanding the harbor.

Among the buildings surrounding the Place d' Armes
we shall first notice, on the east side, the remains of
the Chateau of St. Louis, a large pile of building
three stories in height, perfectly destitute of orna-
ment, and at present occupied by the oflSces of the
Crown Lands Department. The building which
Champlain erected near this spot in 1620 was meant
to supply the place of a fortress as well as a State
residence, and, for many years, the principal fortifi-
cations of Quebec were those surrounding the castle.
Gradually these defences have been extended until
now nothing remains to show that this was once the
strongest position in the city. Of the Chateau Haw-
kins says : —

" During the weakness of the colony it was often a
scene of terror and despair at the inroads of the per-
severing and ferocious Iroquois, who, having passed
or overthrown all the French outposts, more than once
threatened the fort itself and massacred some friendly
Indians within sight of its walls. Here, too, in inter-
vals of peace, were laid those benevolent plans for the
religious instruction and conversion of the savages
which at one time distinguished the policy of the
ancient governors. At a later era, when, under the
protection of the French kings, the province had
acquired the rudiments of military strength and
power, the Castle of St. Louis was remarkable as
having been the site whence the French governors
exercised an immense sovereignty, extending from the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of that noble
river, its magnificent lakes, and down the course of
the Mississippi to its outlet below New Orleans. The

»/►

'XO QUEBEC.

'4-

banner which first streamed from the battlements of
Quebec was displayed from a chain of forts which
protected the settlements throughout this vast extent
of country, keeping the English colonies in constant
alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations.
During this period the council chamber of the castle
was the scene of many a midnight vigil — many a long
deliberation and deep-laid project to free the conti-
nent from the intrusion of the ancient rival of France
and assert the supremacy of the Gallic lily. At
another era, subsequent to the surrender of Quebec to
the British armies, and until the recognition of the
independence of the United States, the extent of
empire of the government of which the Castle of Que-
bec was the principal seat, comprehended the whole
American continent north of Mexico. It is aston-
ishing to reflect for a moment, to how small, and, as to
size, comparatively insignificant an island in the
Atlantic ocean this gigantic territory was once subject.

" Here also was rendered to the representative of
the French king, with all its ancient forms, the fealty
and homage of the noblesse and military retainers
who held possessions in the province under the crown.
A feudal ceremony, suited to early times, which im-
posed a real and substantial obligation on those who
performed it, not to be violated without forfeiture and
dishonor. The king of Great Britain having suc-
ceeded to the rights of the French crown, this cere-
mony is still retained."

Of the building erected by Champlain no vestige
now remains, the present edifice having been con-
structed towards the close of the last century, the old
building being found much decayed. In 1809, the
ancient castle was put in thorough repair, and again
occupied by the Governor General, and was thus mis-
named the New Chateau, Avhile the more modern
building has, with equal incorrectness, been called the

TOURIST'S GUIDE

I •

old. The ancient building was destroyed by fire in
1834, despite the great eftbrts made to save it. So
intense was the cold that day that, though the confla-
gration occurred about noon, the water froze in the
engines, and even supplies of warm water could not
render them serviceable. Since then, the ruins have
been completely cleared away and the site converted
into a spacious promenade, which was first thrown
open to the public in October 1838. Here the
stranger may gain some idea of the number of ships
which annually crowd this harbour ; and on a warm
evening in summer it would be hard to find in any
city a more agreeable and attractive spot than this,
its proximity to the water and great elevation
enabling one to enjoy a freshness of air and extent
of view not often obtainable in a crowded town. To
Lord Durham, at one time Governor General of
Canada, Quebec is indebted for this noble walk.

On the opposite or west side of the Place d'Armes,
we have the Court House, built in 1804 ; its main
entrance, under a triple archway, facing Louis street.
It contains, on the ground floor, apartments for the
Quarter Sessions, and other inferior courts, and
offices for the different clerks ; above is the chamber
in which the Superior Court, Court of Appeals,
Criminal Court, &c., hold their sittings. Of its
appearance we can say nothing in praise. Had no
ornament been attempted by its designer it might
have passed unnoticed by strangers ; but as it is,
there is sufficient in it to attract the eye, and cause
the observer to exclaim, " How very ugly !" One
consolation we may have is that it must decay, and
when replaced it will, no doubt, be by a building
more befitting the improved taste of the community.
We regret to say that it is too substantially built to
give us any hope that it w'll speedily crumble away.
The cost to the province of its erection, ungainly as

(

' I

TO QUEBEC.

it i^, was .$120,000. Its length is one hundred and
thirty-six feet, and its brcadtli forty-four. Like the
En^^hsh Cathedral, it is erected on property "svhich
once belonged to the Ilecollet order.

Without a notice of this religious body — the first
established and the first extinct in Canada — no de-
scription of the city of Quebec could bo complete.
Tlie first members of this order arrived from France,
with Champlain, 1615, and received an addition of
three to their number in 1620. Their first monastery
stood on the banks of the St. Charles, near the present
(leneral Hospital. They returned to Franco on the
capture of the city by the Kcrkts, and political
inliuence prevented their re-cstablishment in the
colony till 1670. They Avent to their old possessions
on tlie St. Charles, and there remained till 1690,
when they removed to the Upper Town. Here they
erected, in 1603, their monastery and church, which
were destroyed during the siege under General
Wolfe. The flag taken from the ship of Phipps,
when his unsuccessful attempt was made on the city,
had been placed in this church, and was destroyed in
the conflagration. Two plates, deposited under the
corner stones of the buildings, were discovered by
workmen employed to level the ground. The first
was found on the 23rd of July, 1834, and the second
in August of the same year. Having already noticed
the English Cathedral, nothing remains for us to
mention at this spot save the St. George's Hotel, at
the corner of St. Anne and Fort streets. It was
erected by a joint stock company many years since,
to supply the city with a good hotel ; but the specu-
lation failing to prove remunerative, it was sold. The
purchaser, the late Hon. J. Scwell, leased it to the
government ; but on the removal of the legislature it
was again converted into a hotel. Since the return

TOUUIPrH UIMDE

• i

of tho govorniacut, it luis agaiji Ixmmi iixmI Msi otfit'Cs
for some of tho public drpartinonts.

liCMvin;; tlio IMacu; d'Anncs, by Fort street, we next
come to JJiuule street, the name of which is all that
eomnieniorates the talented and heroic Louis Buade
dc Frontenac, once governor of the place. In this
street is situated the General Post-office, only ren-
<lered worthy of notice by n figure of a dog gnawing
a bone, whicdi is sculptured in relief on a stone above
one of the windows. It is richly gilt, and commonly
kuowii as the '' Chien d'or." The following legend
is related concerning it : —

*' The house was built by a Mons. Philibert, a mer-
chant of Bordeaux, wlio came to Canada in 1712.
Some misunderstanding having arisen between him
and Bigot, then '' Intendant," and Philibert being
unable to obtain redress in the colony against so
powerful a rival, revenged himself by placing over
the door of his residence the figure alluded to, with
the following lines cut beneath :

" ' Je siiis un chien qui rouge I'os,
En le rongcant je prends mon repos.
lln temps viendi.a qui n'est pas venii,
Que je mordi-iii qui ra'aura mordu.'

The threat conveyed in these lines was easily nnder-
stood by Bigot, who, to revenge the insult, did not
scruple to use the sword of an assassin. One day,
when descending the hill to the Lower Town, Phili-
bert was run through the back by an officer of the
iiarrison. There is no doubt that this was done at
tlic instigation of Bigot, who permitted the murderer
wlio had thus disgraced his profession to leave the
colony unmolested. A brother of Philibert's arriving
in Quebec to settle his brother's business, discovered
that the murderer had exchaniijed into a re<i;iment
serving in the east. He followed him, and met Avith
him in a street of Pondicherry, where, after a severe

TO QUEBEC.

conflict, the :i.s>sassiii died by the sword of i\w
avenger."

From Buade street, wo may proceed to the ''■Bislio])'s
Pahice," a liandsomc cut stone building, occupied by
the Roman Catholic bishop as a residence. It is a
lofty building, solidly constructed, and ornamented
in front with Doric pillars. It was erected in 184'J,
but the interior has, we understand, never been
finished. Accommodation is provided in it tor up-
wards of one hundred of the clergy, many of whom,
from country places, have occasion to visit Quel)iH!.
In the ante-chamber are suspended portraits of the
bishop's predecessors. The ground on which it is
built is a portion of the fabrii^ue, or churcli land.

Close to the site of tlie present palace, and ficiiig
the road which leads through Prescott Gate, arc the
buildings now temporarily occupied by the two Houses
of the Legislature. The buildings themselves, of
white brick, have no pretensions to arrdiitectural
beauty, and were erected to supply a place oi meeting
for the legislature till its' removal to Ottawa, and
afterwards to be converted into a Po«t-officc, the
present building being found too small for that pur-
pose. On the site of these buildings Champlain built
his first fort ; and, at a later date, the Bishop's Palace
was erected here. This was a very spacious and
handsome building of cut stone, and is described by
a French writer as being eiiual to any of the episcopal
residences in France, if it were finished. According
to the oriixinal design it was intended to form three
sides of a scjuare, but it remained a long time without
being completed. It was afterwards selected by thi*
government as a place for the meeting of the legisla-
tive chambers, and an annuity was accepted by tlie
Roman Catholic bishop in exchange for it. In 1854
it was destroyed by fire, and parties sent to examine
the state of the ruins reported the walls unsafe for

li^

I <l

TOURIST'S GUIDE

V ,1 '

re-building. The materials were sold to the Corpo-
ration for $100, and from them the Champlain market
hall has been principally built. When the first
attempt was made to remove the walls they were
found to be so firm that gunpowder was employed to
expedite the work, a circumstance which does not
speak too highly for the accuracy of those who
reported them to bo in such a shattered condition.
During the visit of the Prince of Wales to Quebec,
these buildino;s wore fitted ud for his residence. The
greater portion of the library of parliament is con-
tained within the building, and is well worthy of a
visit from strangers. In tlie halls of the Legislative
j^.ssembly and Council arp suspended the portraits of
the various Speakers of the two Houses. In tlie rear
of the parliament buildings is the Grand Battery,
mounting twenty-two thirty-two pounders, command-
ing the whole basin and river opposite the city. From
the small platform close to tlie north-east corner of
the enclosure, a very fine view is to be had, to which
we recommend the stranger's attention. Following
tliis portion of the ramparts, westward, we arrive at
a small gate, opening into the grounds of the Laval
University. This institution, an offspring of the
Laval Seminary, was incorporated by Royal Charter
in 1852, and has faculties in arts, law, and medicine.
The present university building is a massive cut stone
edifice, five stories high, and contains offices for the
use of the managers of the institution, lecture halls
for the classes, and chambers for convocation, etc.
Its length is three liundred and five feet, its breadth
sixty-six feet, and height fifty. The roof is fiat, and
surrounded by a light though secure iron railing, and
forms a most admirable promenade ; and the view,
from its great height, and projecting so far beyon<l
any other edifice, is one of the very finest about the
city. The length of the space thns railed in is sixty

TO QUEBEC.

icet longer tiian tlie Durham Terrace, and its lorel is
thirty feet ahove it. In the topmost story is the
large hall used for the public celebrations of the
Universit3\ This room is one hundred feet in length,
forty feet in width, and twenty-five feet in height ;
a large gallery runs entirely round it, greatly
increasing the accommodation. We may remark
that at the festivals held here gentlemei:^ ^i'® admitted
without cards, but ladies by ticket only ; and the sexes
are not permitted to mingle, the gallery being reserved
for the fair onen and the body of the hall for the lords
of creation. The other large building, at a short
distance from the university, is the boarding house
attached to it, five stories high, one hundred and five
feet long, and forty feet broad. Each boarder is
provided with two rooms, well lighted, and in winter
comfortably heated. A large smoking room, and a
well-furnished drawing room, containing a handsome
piano, are among the comforts provided for tliose
lodging in the establishment. On the opposite side
of the gravelled walk is the medical school, containing
lecture and dissecting, rooms for the students in that
branch of science. Like the other buildings, it is of
cut stone, is three stories high, seventy-five feet long,
and fifty feet broad. Following the gravel walk, we
emerge into St. Famille street, more commonly,
though less correctly, known as Hope street, at the
foot of which stands Ilopij Gate, the last of the five
which wo have mentioned. At this gate, as at the
others, is a guard-house, and a sentry always on duty.
Leaving Famille street by Couillard street, the
stranger in a moment or two finds himself in St. John
street, having thus eompleted the circuit of the city
within the walls.

There are some few buildings in the interior of the
city which we have not mentioned, as they did not lie
in the route we have taken. First among these is the

TOURIST'S aUIDE

f '.1

church of the Wesleyan Methodists, a very elegant
structure of white cut stone, situated at the corner of
Stanislaus and Dauphine streets. It was erected by
the Wesleyan Methodists in 1848. The style is
perpendicular Gothic, the interior being handsomely
and tastefully finished. A wide gallery surrounds
the whole interior, and a good organ has been built
in it. The roof has no supports from the gallery,
being built in one span, which adds greatly to the
light and graceful look of the interior. In the base-
ment, well-finished and comfortable rooms are set
apart for class-meetings, &c. The congregation is nt
present under the care of tlie Rev. Mr. Young.
According to the Census of 1850, this body then
numbered 1G8 souls, since which time, up to the last
Census, they have increased to 1075, a greater pro-
portional augmentation than any other religious sect
in the city has received in the same space of time,
The main entrance is from Stanislaus street, while
die basement is entered, in the rear, from Angele
street.

On a line with the AVesleyan Church, and also
facing on Stanislaus street, is the Quebec Jail. This
building and its outhouses occupy the entire block-
enclosed by St. Stanislaus, Ste. Anne, St. Angele, and
Dauphine streets. The main entrance is from
Stanislaus street. On Anne street is a guard-room,
and a special body, called the '^ Jail Guard," is
maintained by the Corporation for its protection.
The cost of erecting this jail, ) 60,000, was defrayed
by the provincial government. The corner-stone was
laid by the Governor-in-chief, June 17, 1809, but the
building was not occupied till 1814. Its breadth is
sixty-eight feet, and its length one hundred and sixty.
Behind the main building, and separated from it, is
a House of Correction for females, and betweon, the
court yard of the male prison. The jail lias been

TO QUEBEC.

found inadequate to the wants of the city for some
time, and a new buikling, of much Larger dimensions,
is in course of erection on the celebrated Plains of
Abraham. The present building and its site have
been purchased ])y the trustees of the Morrin College,
who propose, we believe, erecting in its place a
University building for their own use.

In the triangular space contained by Stanislas,
Ste. Anne, and Dauphine streets, opposite the jail,
are situated the church, manse, and school-house of
the established Church of Scotland. To IlawJchu^'
I'ielure of Quebec we are indebted for the following
information concerning the progress of this body in
our city : —

" It is believed that a regularly ordained clergyman
of tlie Church of Scotland has officiated to the Pres-
byterians of that persuasion ever since the conquest
in the year 1759 ; but it is certain that an apartment
was assigned, by the king's representative, in the
"^(Suits' College, as a place of worship for the mem-
'=rs of the Scotch Church, previous to the year 1767,
and occupied as such until 1807, when Colonel Isaac
Brock requested the congregation to be prepared to
remove thence on the shortest notice, as it was found
necessary to appropriate it to the accommodation of
tlie troops."

In consideration of their being thus disturbed, the
Govcrnor-in-chief granted the congregation perjnis-
sion to hold their Sunday services in the Court-house,
in tlie chamber in which the justices of the peace held
their sittings, until a more permanent provision
could be made for their accommodation. On 30th
November, 1808, a grant was made, by letters patent,
of a portion of the present site to certain parties,
"in trust," and in February 1809, the committee
appointed t(^ solicit subscriptions reported that the
sura of X1547 had been subscribed. From this fund

TOURIST S GUIDE

'' St. Andrew's Clnirch '" was built, its dimensions
being sixty feet by forty, within the Avails. Dr.
Spark was then officiating for that body. The site
of this building and the English Cathedral gave much
mirth to some parties — the latter having for its nearest
neighbour the court-house, and the former the jail, at
that time in course of erection. Among many squibs
let off' at the time, Ave find the following :

" IjO, sanctity to save can nought avail ?
The pious Kirk is sent from court to jail,"

the concrreaiation of the Scotch Church then holdiuir
their meetings in the Court-house.

In 1821, the church accommodation being found
too small for the congregation. Lord Dalhousie granted
an additional space to the trustees, to cnaldc them to
enlarge the church, a petition to that eflect having
been presented to him. This enlargement Avas com-
pleted in May 1824, and the church as it noAV stands
measures ninety-five feet by forty-eight, Avithin the
Avails, and can accommodate thirteen hundred sitters.
The School-house Avas erected in 1831 by the trus-
tees, government aid for the purpose being granted
them to the extent of <£400. A grant of ^30 yearly
is still given to the school fund by the legislature.
The interior of the church contains monuments to the
Rev. Messrs. Spark and llarkness, Avho have had, at
different times, charge of the congregation. They
are erected one on each side of the pulpit — tluit to
Mr. Spark being on the right hand, that to Mr.
Harkness on the left. During the last ten years the
members, of this congregation have increased from
three hundred and fifty-six souls to one thousand tAvo
hundred and fifty-three. HaAvkins, in his Avork pub-
lished in 1834, gives the number of communicants
attending this cliurch as about 300. The apparent
non-increase from that time till 1851 is accounted
for by the fact that the separation of the Free Church

l i- r TW i»»

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from the Established Church of Scotland took place
during that interval. The Rev. John Cook, D.D.,
now officiates in the church. His name is well known
to all Presbyterians in Canada, he having been more
than once chosen Moderator of the Synod of his
Church.

The Lecture Hall, on Anne street, was constructed
in 1816, to serve as a place of worship for the Wes-
leyan Methodists. The erection of the handsome
building in the same neighbourhood by the Wesleyans
rendering this chapel no longer useful to them, it was
sold to some private parties, who offered to present it
to the Church of England, provided the nomination
of the officiating clergyman should rest with them ;
and it is even said that, without consulting the bishop,
they had already made arrangements with an English
clergyman to officiate. This the Lord Bishop refused
to agree to, and much fault was found with him by
some parties for the course he pursued ; but the cir-
cumstances which subsequently transpired proved
clearly that he acted with great discretion and prudent
foresight. The building is now used as a place of
public entertainment, lectures and exhibitions of
various sorts being held in it from time to time. It
is perfectly plain both in exterior and interior.

The Music Hall, St. Louis street, is, decidedly
more handsomely finished, and, with the excep-
tion of the Bonsecours Hall in Montreal, can accom-
modate a greater audience than any public hall in
Canada. It was built in 1852, by a joint stock com-
pany, from designs furnished by Mr. Chas. Baillargd.
The hall is seated for about fifteen hundred persons,
and has a false flooring, so that it can be used as
either a ball room or concert room at pleasure. The
stage, by far the largest in Canada, is provided with
a very good stock of scenery, and all the appliances
requisite for a theatrical company. Besides the main
G

tourist's guide

hiiW, the building contains n spacious supper room,
ample cloak rooms for ladies and gentlemen, a saloon
and apartments for the housekeeper. Wc doubt if
any building on the continent has the same facility
for egress as the Music Hall, for with any ordinary
care, even "vvhen most crowded, the audience could
with safety make their exit in a few minutes. All
the doors in the building open outwards, with the
exception of. two, of which the whole frame work
slides into the masonry, thus effectually providing
against the cause of so many fearful accidents in
similar places, viz., inability to open the doors.

The citizens of Quebec were awakened to the folly
of using doors opening inwards, by a fearful catas-
trophe which happened among them on the 12th of
June, 1846. A panorama was then being exhibited
in the building used as a theatre, and just as the
entertainment had concluded, the canvas took fire
from one of the lamps used to illuminate it. The
building was so densely crowded at the time, and the
confusion became so great, that between forty-five
and fifty persons perished in the flames. Among
them were an aged couple named Tardiff, who had
never before been in a theatre, but who had been
induced to visit it to see this panorama of religious
views. Lieutenant Hamilton, of the 14th, and a
young lady whom he was to have married in a few
days, also perished. She had that morning been
arranging her wedding things with her sister, who
was with her in the theatre. The sister was saved
by a Mr. Hardie, of the city. Hamilton and his
betrothed were interred in the same grave. Sir
James Alexander, who witnessed the conflagration,
says : *' The Avooden lining of the walls quickly
caught fire, also the sloping floor and benches. Black
and stifling smoke from the camphene rolled down
the fatal stair, and hid the victims for a moment, and

TO QUEBEC.

drove away those courageously assisting outside ;
then it would roll back an'l disclose the agonised
countenances of those doomed to destruction. Once
a stream of flame ran down from the top to the Lottoni
of the stair, and every head seemed on fire, and they
were painfully and helplessly moved about, the swollen
tongues preventing utterance. Again another cloud
of smoke, the roof falls in, and forty-five human
beings, lately in health, have ceased to exist. The
Reverend Mr. O'Reilly, a Roman Catholic priest, in
the conscientious discharge of his sacred office, stood
in the door way and prayed over them to the last.
To the la^t they were sensible. How fearful must
have been their agonies." We would not have dwelt
so long on this most painful theme w^ere it not for the
frequency of accidents arising from a similar cause
in so many places, and the unwillingness people seem
to have to correct this great and most important fault
in the construction of public buildings. As it is, we
regret space will not permit us to give more fully Sir
James Alexander's thrilling relation of the accident.
The building thus destroyed stood near the Old Cha-
teau, and had formerly been the riding school of Sir
James Craig.

The Masonic Hall is a large edifice of cut stone,
situated at the junction of St. Louis and Garden
streets, and presenting a handsome front on both.
It was built by the Masonic fraternity but a short
time since. A portion of the building is used by
them for lodge rooms, &c., and the remainder rented
as offices. The rooms of the Quebec Literary and
Historical Society are here, as also the lecture rooms
of the Morrin College. This last named institution
is as yet in its infancy, the foundation of it having
been made by the late Dr. Morrin, of Quebec, who,
at his death, about two years since, left the sum of
,000 to endow such an institution. Wo have no

TOURIST'S OUIDE

doubt that, under its present energetic managers, it
will rapidly rise in public estimation, and bring forth
the fruits intended by its generous founder.

The last building within the walls, which we have
to mention, is the Chalmers' Church, belonging to
the Scotch " Free Church." It is a very elegant
cut stone building, with a lofty tower and spire. It
is situated at the foot of the citadel glacis on St.
Ursule street. The whole edifice is well designed,
and all its parts in perfect keeping ; and we regret
that a building which shows such taste on the part of
its designer, and liberality on the part of its erectors,
is not placed in a more conspicuous situation. It is
decidedly the most elegant building within the city,
and the finish of the interior is carried out in a very
handsome manner. It was erected in 1850. The con-
gregation is at present presided over by Rev. W. Clark.

Having thus briefly brought before the stranger's
notice those buildings and places likely to interest
him within the walls, we now turn to those of a like
nature in the suburbs and on the outskirts of the city.
Among those objects the first which naturally claims
our attention is the ''Plains of Abraham." To
these, then, let us pass, noticing those few places
worthy of mark which we may encounter on our road.
Passing through St. Louis Gate, and issuing from the
narrow way which winds through the outworks and
pierces the glacis, into ''The Grand Allde," or St.
Louis road, we notice on our right hand a large barn-
like structure of wood, nearly two hundred feet in
length and about sixty feet in width. Unenticing as
it may appear to strangers, few places in Quebec are
more fondly regarded by the youthful portion of the
community than this unpretending structure, " the
Skating Rink," and thougb deserted and lonely dur-
ing the summer months, it resounds with gaiety and
laughter during winter. Those unacquainted with

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i i

the glorious northern sport of skating, can form no
idea of the fascination it exercises over those who
indulge in it. After once the frost sets in suflficiently
severe to form the ice, the rink is seldom if ever
empty until the spring returns. It is open to mem-
bers every day, and lighted for their benefit three
evenings during the week. The military bands also
perform here frequently. Besides these regular
"lightings up," balls arc given during the winter,
and of the scenes which then take place we can give
no adequate idea. The numberless lamps suspended
from the rafters, the gay bunting which decorates the
walls, the stirring strains of the music blending with
the merry voices of the skaters, combine to render it
more like a palace of fairy land than of earth. And
the skaters; they too are well worth attention. For
a lady, what can be more decorous or becoming than
the furred caps, short jackets and skirts, and the
Turkish trousers in which most of them are dressed V
What ball-room could give the same healthy color they
now have ? In those who are expert in the exercise
what ease and elegance there is in every movement !-
Those who speak of the poetry of motion in connec-
tion with the ballet, can never liavo witnessed good
skating. In skating there is a grace and ease, an
absence of apparent muscular exertion, in even the
most intricate and rapid movements, which can not be
obtained in any other exercise. We can compare the
movements to nothing save the descent of a bird with
motionless wings, so purely do they seem effected by
the will alone. All, however, are not thus gifted ;
and in general ladies make the most graceful skaters.
We never saw one of the fair sex run wild on the ice.
With the men, however, such things do happen — now
and then a figure with bent body, outstretched head
and legs, and arms which seem to endeavor to cover
the whole area of the ice, shoots by with the rapidity

TOURISTS GUIDE

and noise of a lightning express ; anon a tall figure
may be seen performing a painful pilgrimage from
end to end of the building, after the manner of Hindoo
devotees who measure the whole distance of their
journey with the length of their bodies. His age
prevents us supposing him to be a native, and as wc
witness his great perseverance and disregard for the
hardness of the ice with which his head comes in
forcible contact, we cease to wonder at the heroism
of the British officers in India or the Crimea. The
rink is erected on ordnance property, by permission
of the military authorities, and cost $2,500. It con-
tains dressing rooms for the skaters, galleries, &c.,
for spectators, and apartments for tlie rink-keeper.
A curling rink is also erected in rear of it.

On our left hand may be noticed the glacis of the
citadel, extending to the margin of the precipice over-
hanging Champlain street and the coves. The visitor
should not fail to ramble over to the river side, as he will
be well repaid for his trouble by the magnificent view
he will obtain of the river and the coves on each side,
where the ships usually load with timber. There, he may
also distinctly trace the remains of the French for-
tifications, and perhaps may find some of those quartz
crystals from which the spot derives its name of Cape
Diamond. These slopes, and the plain below, called
in common parlance the " Cove fields," were, till
skating drove tobogan sliding out of fashion, a favo-
rite winter resort. There, on a frosty moonlight night,
hundreds might bo seen enjoying this popular sport.
The tobogan is an Indian sled, made of a very thin
piece of wood, without runners, from eighteen to
twenty inches in width, and from three to eight feet
in length. Even when heavily loaded it will not sink
in the fresh fallen snow, owing to the superficial ex-
tent it covers. The front is curved upwards, and, when
moving rapidly, throws the fleecy snow before it like

TO QUEBEC.

)

■

foam from the bow of ii ship. Though not forming
so brilliant a scene as the rink, to our mind it was
one much grander. Below lay the river, not calm and
silvery, as beneath the summer sun, but inky black,
.^avc where the masses of ice, with which it is at this
season filled, reared their white heads in wild confu-
sion, while the sleds rapidly descended or Avere lazily
drawn up the slopes ; here and there an occasional
overturn, which caused nothing save additional mirth,
or perhaps some absent-minded individual carried ott'
his legs by some mischief-loving parties to whom he
was a complete stranger. Here, each laughed as long
;jnd loudly as he would, without the fear of incommo-
«ling his neighbour, and every figure about you stood
out with clear distinctness against the snowy plain,
which lay sparkling like a bed of crystals in the soft
moonlight.

On the St. Louis Road, is situated the Canada
Military Asylum, a good sized stone building, main-
tained by the forces in Canada, to afford a refuge to
the widows and orphans of those in the service dying
here. Also the " Ladies' Protestant Home," a char-
itable institution, supported by voluntary subscriptions
obtained through the exertions of some benevolently
inclined ladies. It is a good-looking building, is of
white brick, but has nothing of originality in its de-
sign. Close to the corner of De . Salaberry and St.
Louis streets is the St. Bridget's Asylum, maintained
as a refuge for the destitute by the congregation of
St. Patrick's Church, and close to it is a small
cemetery, now but little used, and commonly known
as the cholera burying ground. Should parties feel
inclined to visit these buildings they will find no
difficulty in doing so, and will, on the spot, receive
more full and accurate information than we can give
them here. Passing through the toll-gate, and turn-
ing to the open fields on our left, we are at once on

ioUiaSTS (lUIDE

the scene of the Battle of the Plains. Close beside
us, a stone column, surmounted by a Roman sword
and helmet, marks the spot where Wolfe breathed his
last. The following inscription, copied from it, indi-
cates by whom and w4iy it was erected : — " This pil-
lar was erected by the British Army in Canada, A.D.
1849, His Excellency Lieutenant General Sir Ben-
jamin D'Urban, G.C.B., K.C.IL, &c., Commander of
the Forces, to replace that erected by Governor
General Lord Aylmer, G.C.B., in 1832, which was
broken and defaced, and is deposited beneath." The
monument referred to as erected by Lord Aylmer,
was a half column of the Corinthian order, about nine
feet in height, cut from a single block, and finely
polished; the sub-plinth, by Avay of contrast was simply
cut. The column was supported on a pedestal formed
from granite boulders found on the ground, and among
them Avas firmly imbedded the remains of the rock on
which the dying hero was supported. The inscription,

Here Died

Wolfe,
Victorious,

which was cut on the column, has been copied on the
pedestal of the present monument. The design was
Lord Aylmer's own, who himself defrayed the cost
of its erection ; the ground on which it stands being
given by the proprietor, Mr. Hammond Gowen.

The campaign of 1759 was opened by operations
both by land and sea. Canada was to be invaded by
three bodies ; of which one, under Gen. Wolfe, was to
proceed by water up the St. Lawrence to Quebec.
Wolfe's army consisted of about eight thousand men,
which were landed in two divisions on the Island of
Orleans, on the 27th of June. Wolfe's first attempt
was on the intrenched position of the French at Mont-
morenci, where he met such a severe repulse that, in
his despatches to England, he expressed great doubts

To QCEIJI'C.

41)

ot" his being able to reduce tlic place. On llie 11th
September he landed his troops on the south shore,
marched up the banks and re-embarked them abo\ (j
the town. Tl»e fleet then saih-d up the river near to
Cap Kouge, and Montcahn, tliinkiiig an attem[)t
might be made there, despatclied DeBourgainvilie
with two thousand men to meet the British. During
the night the fleet dropped down with the tide, and
eluding the sentries and challenge boats, anchored
opposite Wolfe's Cove. The steep hill side was scaled
v.ith considerable dif'nculty, and a small body ol"
French troops on duty there dislodged. Word was at
once conveyed to Montcalm of what had transpired, but
before he could move to the spot the whole British
i'orco was drawn up in order on the riain.-;, where ho
determined at once to give battle, without waiting for
the return of DcBourgainville. The Frencli troops,
though more numerous than tlic English, were mostly
raw militia men, and, though they advanced with ail
enthusiasm and courage to the encounter, they wor<!
soon found unable to cope with the veteran forces of
the English. When the action commenced, Montcalm
and Wolfe led their favorite troops into the field, and
during the heat of the contest both fell. Wolfe, at the
head of theLouisbourg Grenadiers and 28th Regiment,
received a wound in the wrist, but simply wrapping
his handkerchief round it, pressed on ; a second ball
struck him in the groin ; still he remained at his post,
and just as the French gave way before the Grena-
diers, a bullet, which struck him in the breast, inflict-
ed a mortal wound. He was conveyed to the spot
where the monument now stands, and on the informa-
tion being conveyed to him that the French had given
way, he exclaimed, ''Now, God be praised ! I die
happy ! " and expired. Such was the death of Wolfe,
at the early age of thirty-five, when but few men be-
gin to appear on the theatre of great events. —

TOURIST'S GUIDE

Montcalm, wounded during the heat of the action,
when told his wounds wore mortal, expressed his
thankfulness that he should not see the surrender of
the city. He died, and was buried, as we elsewhere
stated, within the Ursuline Convent. The battle was
scarcely closed when DeBourgainville came in sight.
He saw the uselessness of advancing, and retired,
first to Poiiite aux Trembles, and finally to Montreal.
On the IStli the capitulation was effected, and Gen.
Murray took tlie command. Of the courage and ability
of Montcalm it is impossible to speak too highly.
Ilis powers ot generalship had often been proved
against the British forces in the New England colo-
nies, and had he on this occasion acted with his usual
prudence, and awaited the return of DeBourgainville,
we may almost doubt if even the courage and superior
training of the British troops would have availed any-
thin*]: to their heroic and youthful commander. The
total number of English engaged was four thousand
eight hundred and twenty-six ; their loss, sixty-one
killed and six hundred and three wounded. The
French force numbered seven thousand five hundred
and twenty.

On the Plains we may also notice one of the four
Martello towers which were some years since added
to the land fortifications of Quebec. Their circular
shape renders it difficult to bring artillery to bear ef-
fectively on them, and the masonry of which they are
constructed is very heavy on the exposed side and light
on that facing the garrison, so, that if abandoned they
would easily be rendered useless to an enemy. Before
leaving the Plains, we must notice the new jail, now
being constructed. This edifice, built entirely of
stone, fronts towards the St. Lawrence, and consists of
a main body and tAVO wings, the former four stories
high, the latter three stories high. It contains cells
for 276 prisoners, apartments for the jailor and

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other functionaries, besides hospitals, ehapels, work-
shops, &c. The cost of the building, when complete,
will be $32,000, defrayed from the provincial re-
venues. The w\alls are all loopholed for musketry, by
desire of the military authorities.

In Saint John's suburb, the first place we shall notice
is the Chapel and Convent of the Sisters of Charity,
or Soeurs Crises, situated on St. Olivier street, opposite
the foot of St. Frangois street. The convent is a
large building of cut stone, very simple, but by no means
inelegant in design, and its interior is well hiid out.
It is, however, to the chapel we would particularly
direct the stranger's attention ; the interior surpasses
in elegant simplicity any building of a like nature in
the province. Though very small in area, it is carried
up to the extreme height of the building, which gives
it a much grander appearance than is usually o])tained
in small churches. Three tiers of galleries, supported
by clustered columns, surround the sides and one end
of the building. The edifice is of very recent con-
struction ; the noble mass of buildings which formerly
stood there having been destroyed by fire in May,
1854. The former church was 80 feet in height, to
the roof, and surmounted by a dome whose height v,as
200 feet. Besides attending to the sick and desti-
tute in the city, the sisters of this institution support"
and educate within its walls a large number of child-
ren. St. Matthew's Chapel, belonging to the Estab-
lished Church of England, is a' simple gothic building
standing in the old Protestant Cemetry. This block
of land was granted, many years ago, by the British
Government, as a place of interment for the various
Protestant sects ; its management being in the hands
of a board of trustees. The growth of the city hav-
ing rendered it inexpedient to permit any longer
interments to jtake place in such a populous district,
terms were arranged with the trustees by wliich the

TOURIST'? GUIDE

cemetrv Tvas closed, and tlic duty of keeping it in
proper order devolved upon the Corporation. The
erection of* t\ie chapel is due to our late energetic and
lamenicd Bidiop, Dr. Mountain. In the cemetry a
small house once stood, wh ch -was occupied by the
sexton, un apartment being set aside for reading the
funeral service at burials. In this room the Bishop,
by permission of the trustees, instituted a Sunday
eveninf]j service for the benefit of those rcsidin*^ in the
suburbs, and for a long time conducted the services
himself. Finding his efforts attended v.'ith success he
obtained the use of the whole buildlr.g, providing the
sexton with another residence. During the great fire
the chapel was destroyed, and afterwards the present
structure was erected. As the patent for the ground
was not taken out until long after the grant was
made, the Bishop was enabled to obtain the insertion
of a clause which gave permission to the members of
the English Church to erect a chapel on the ground,
provided the use of it was granted to the Prosby-
terians for burials, in virtue of which the ground on
which the chapel stands belongs to the first named
body. In 1853 morning service was first held in the
ci-jpel, and the congregation of it has steadily in-
creased, until now it is inadequate to their wants.

Until the death of Bishop Mountain, the ciry of
Quebec was but one parish, of which his Lordshi[»
was Rector. It has since then been divided, and the
various chapels constituted several parishes. Until
his death the Bishop never lost interest in the Hock
which had thus grown up under his care ; Iw} fre-
quently visited it, and from his own purse paid yearly
the greater portion of the clergyman's stipend. The
present building will seat about four hundred, and
the scats in it arc all absolutely free. An endowmcni
fund, raised by subscriptions among the congrega-
tion, has been raised of late to ensure the continual

f I

TO QUEBEC.

freedom of the seats, by thus providing a revenue to
defray the expenses of supporting a clergyman as
Avcll as the building. Under the present incumbent
a daily morning service in summer, and evening ser-
vice in winter was instituted and is still maintained.
A- Sunday school also established by him has been
most successful in its results. The interior of the
church is very plain, and it contains a very fair organ.
Here, we are in the midst of that large district which
was devastated by fiie in June, 1845. So fiercely
and rapidly did the flames spread that all efforts to
subdue them proved unavailing, and the destruction
only ceased, we may say, when nothing more was left
to de^itroy. One thousand three hundred and fifteen
houses v»ere consumed, and their inmates turned into
the streets in a state of destitution. AVorse still, the
fearful devastation was not witlutut loss of several
lives. At some distance westward, along St. John's
street, we nndthe large church, St. John's of the lloman
Catholic congregation of the suburbs. Tbis building,
erected in 1848, though very handsome, is by no
means equal to what it would have been had the de-
signer's origiiuil plan been carried out. It was intend-
ed that it shouhl have stoo<l above a flight of steps
which would have raised it above the road, thereby
adding greatly to its appearance : and the lofty square
towers of the orir^inal would have looked more statelv
than the present f-pires. When the funds of the
church will permit, a handsome portico will occupy a
]>ortion of the vacant space in iVont of tlie building.
The ceiling is very handsomely finished, and the nave
divided from tlio aisles by graceful Corinthian columns.
It contains seats for about -2,000 persons. The church
contains a yQYy fine organ, and in one of the towers
are four large bells. Tnc white brick building in rear
of the church and coimected Avith it,is the Presbyter3^
On passing the toll-gate, which is one mile from the

il t!

TOUIIISTS (J;UIDE

town, the road takes tlic name of St. Foy's Road. A
sliort distance outside the toll-gate is the Finlay
Asylum, a charitable institution, maintained by the
members of the Church of England, as a refuge for
the infirm of that communion. The origination of it
is due, in a great measure, to the far seeing thought-
fulness of the late Bishop, and partly to the generosity
of certain private individuals in Quebec. The first
sum o])tained for it, §800, Avas left as a bequest from
a Miss Finlay, to be applied as the Bishop might see
fit, in affording relief to the poor. Rightly judging
it would be more advantageous to devote the whole
sum to some one charitable institution, his Lordship
invested the money, and some time since it was found
to have increased to §2,0C0. He then proposed the
erection of the present building, which was formally
opened on the fifteenth anniversary of his Lordship's
ordination. Hearing of the proposed building, another
lady contributed §2,000, at tv*'0 diftcrent times. The
main building is used for the infirm, and the wings
are rented by the Male and Female Orphan Asylums,
both of which are corporate bodies, independent of
each other and of the Finlay Asylum. Daily service
is held in the building. The design was furnished by
Messrs. Stent and Laver, and the building erected
by Mr. Archer of Quebec ; the cost was §14,000.

From hence we proceed along this picturesque road
till we reach the scene of the second battle of the
Plains, which we have already noticed, and where the
last great stand was made for the rights of the French
Crown in Canada. The monument which now marks
the spot has been some time in erecting, and was in-
augurated in 1862, in presence of the Governor-
General, the troops, the civic authorities and national
societies, and a large concourse of people. The statue
of Bellona by which it is surmounted, was the gift of
Prince Napoleon after his visit to tbe city about two
years since.

TO QUEBEC.

■

In St. Rocli's there is but little to attract a visitor,
most of the large buildings being of modern construc-
tion and of no extraordinary architectural merit. In
Vallier street, there is the small Chapel of St. Peter,
erected in 1842 by the members of the Church of
England. In St. Joseph street are two large Iloman
Catholic Churches, that of St. Iloch being, perhaps,
the largest in the city. The Jacques Cartier market
is also in the same street. The General and the
Marine Hospitals shor.ld receive a visit. The former
is an offshoot of the Hotel Dieu, and in charge of the
nuns and Ilospitalieres, of whom we have already
spoken. The Marine Hospital was erected by the
Government in 1834, at a cost of $92,000. It is a
handsome cut stone building of the Ionic order, and
is most complete in its internal arrangements. To
support it, a tax of one penny per ton is levied on all
vessels from sea ; the object of its erection being to
provide a refuge for invalid seamen arriving in Quebec.
Close to this place Jacques Cartier wintered ; and the
spot has been identified by Mr. Hamel, the city sur-
veyor, who discovered a portion of the abandoned
vessel in the mud. The ruins of the Intendant's
Palace, just outside Palace gate, are of historic in-
terest. Bigot, whose name w^e have mentioned, was
the last who resided there ; and if we credit his history,
his style of living was more profligate and extravagant
than that of any Bourbon prince.

In the LoAver Town, is the small Church of Notre
Dame des Victoires, the oldest building of the kind in
the city. The date of its erection is not known, but
mention is mado of a mass sung in it after the defeat
of Sir William Phipps. Another mass was celebrated
in it after the failure of the expedition under Sir
lloveden Lowe, whence its name Notre Dame des
*Victoires. The Custom House is a fine building of
cut stone, fiicing the St. LawTcnce ; its length is 105

I'.l

tourist's guide

M S

I; '

feet ; its Avidtli in the centre, 100 feet ; and width of
wings, 50 feet. The centre is surmounted by a dome
30 feet in diameter ; the front entrance has a hand-
some portico of the lloman Doric order ; its cost was
$240,000. Several of the banks are also good speci-
mens of architecture, among them we may mention
the Bank of Montreal, the Quebec Bank, and the
Banque Nationale, all situated in Peter street.

Should the stranger feel inclined to visit the spot
where General Montgomery fell, he must pass along
Champlain street to '- Pres de Ville." A board placed
on the rock indicates the spot. For some time the
whereabouts of this spot was not generally known,
and the thanks of the travellin«j communitv are due to
the late JNIr. Hawkins for having placed a tablet to
mark it.

The Champlain Market Hall, situated in the Lower
Town, is a very large and fine building ; as we before
stated, it was principally constructed from the con-
demned walls of the Parliament House.

As yet, we have not spoken of any of the charming
drives which abound in the neighbourhood of Quebec,
and Ave shall only be able to refer to them in a brief
manner. Of one thing the visitor may rest assured,
that, no matter Vy'hich of the villages he may wish to
visit, the scenery he ^si\\ encounter on his route will
be varied and pleasing. In the lakes and streams
good trout fishing may generally be found, though
the fish have sulfered much from the want of good
protective laws.

The Falls of Montmorency will doubtless receive a
visit from our readers. They are situated about eight
miles frem Quebec, at the junction of the Mont-
morency and St. Lawrence rivers. They are but 60
feet in width and over 240 feet in height, and though
not possessed of the grandeur of Niagara, are, in their
own way, ijuite as attractive. During the winter,

■}i

ro QUEBEC.

the spray congeals and forms a large cone, sometimes
over 100 feet high, wliicli is a favourite resort of the
lovers of traineau sliding. At the Falls, the Natural
steps, the large mills, and the summer residence of
the late Duke of Kent, will prove of more or less in-
terest to visitors. On the road between Quebec and
Montmorency may be noticed the Beauport Lunatic
Asylum, a most admirably conducted institution, and
the handsome Parish Church of Beauport. During
the greater portion of this drive, a beautiful view of
the city is enjoyed.

At Indian Lorette there is a small but picturesque
w^aterfall of the River St. Charles. The place is
worthy of a visit. The Indian villagers are descend-
ants of the Huron tribe, once the most powerful on
this continent. Here, for many years, they had a
small church, which, we regret to state, was destroyed
]>y fire two years ago. A paper mill, worked by the
water power of the falls, has been in successful ope-
ration for some time.

Lake St. Charles, situated about twelve miles
north of Quebec, is a charming spot ; it is about four
miles long, and one broad, and divided by projecting
ledges into two parts, called the Upper and Lower
Lakes. On the road to it, about four miles from
Quebec, the visitor may pass through the village of
Charlesbourg, one of the oldest settlements in
Canada. It has two churches, one of which is the
centre of the surrounding farms, that radiate from
it as their centre. The reason for this is obvious in
a newly settled place, in which the inhabitants were
constantly exposed to attacks from hostile Indians.

The Hermitage, about four miles from Quebec,
may interest those fond of romantic stories. It was
built by Bigot as a residence for a squaw who was his
mistress, a fact of which he supposed no one to be
aware. Despite the seclusion of the place, his wife
I

TOURIST'S GUIDE

II'

discovered the whereabouts of the building and the
use to which it was devoted. She planned a pic-nic
to the vicinity, and leaving the company unobserved,
poisoned her rival. The story is so precisely a coun-
terpart of " Fair Rosamond " of English history that
at first we can hardly credit it, but it is related as a
veritable truth by the hahitans of the neighbourhood,
who believe the spirit of the frail damsel still haunts
the place. During the siege under General Wolfe,
many ladies of Quebec took refuge there. For a good
description of this and other legends, we would re-
commend to the tourist a small work called Maple
Leaves, WTitten by a gentl'^iuan who possesses great
knowledge of, and feels deep interest in, all things
connected with the early history of the country.

A drive round Cap Rouge the visitor will find
pleasant. He may leave by either St. John's gate or
St. Louis* gate, and passing through the suburbs,
continue his journey to Cap Rouge, The distance is
about eight miles, and along the whole route the
scenery is most attractive. ' At Cap Rouge are ex-
tensive stone quarries, a great deal of the stone used
in Quebec being from that place. It is held by some
geologists, that through that valley the St. Charles
once flowed before it had its present bed. In going
or returning, the traveller, we suppose, will pass the
Mount Hermon Cemetery, on the St. Louis road.
Near it is the small Chapel of St. Michael, a neat
Gothic edifice of cut stone, belonging to the Church
of England. The ground on which it was built was
the gift of the late Dr. Morrin of Quebec, and his
wife; the cost of the building was about $10,000,
which sum was raised by private subscription; the
chancel was the gift of the late Bishop Mountain and
his family, by whom the corner-stone was laid on the
6th of May, 1854.

On the bank of the St. Lawrence opposite Quebec,

TO QUBBEC.

the new town of Levis, or South Quebec, is rapidly
growing into importance. The depot of the Grand
Trunk Railway being on the south shore, and the
difficulty of crossing the river during the winter
months, have greatly contributed towards rendering
Levis the active, bustling little place it now is. It has
a large and well finished church belonging to the
Roman Catholics, and a smaller one, equally tasteful
in design, belonging to the Church of England. Of
late, gas-works have been erected there, and for a
time the gas was manufactured from resin, but the
war in the United States having caused a great in-
crease in the price of the article, coal is now used
instead.

To those who have not resided in Quebec during
the winter it is hardly possible to convey an idea of
the interest which is felt in the formation of an ice
bridge. When the ice does not "take " between the
two shores, there is often much difficulty in crossing
the river. The stream is then full of masses of ice,
varying in size from a few feet square to many hun-
dred feet, through and over which the traveller is
taken in a heavy canoe. Should the canoe men be
fortunate enough to strike a good crossing and get
clear water, the journey is quickly made and is not
unpleasant. This, however, is not always the case,
and sometimes the victim of circumstances is carried
about some hours on the ice, and landed at last some
miles from the place he set out for. We know of one
gentleman who arrived at Point Levi in the afternoon
train, and left for Quebec in a canoe, and at the end
of five hours he was landed some little way down the
river, on the Island of Orleans. Despite the apparent
danger of the traverse, we very rarely hear of a canoe
being lost, and wc have never heard of any fatality
resulting from an accident. Conveying passengers
and goods from one side to the other aflfords employ-

H!!

TOURIST'S GUIDE

I)''

mcilt tu many at a time when it is difficult to obtain
work, and if there is any likelihood of the ice
"taking," the men use their utmost endeavours to
prevent it. When it "takes," or freezes across, a
road is quickly formed over it, which is soon crowded
by vehicles and foot passengers ; it then generally
holds till the latter end of April, and now and then
till after the 1st of May, when May poles have been
erected on it. Last year, a very powerful screw-
steamer was placed on the river, with the intention of
keeping her running all winter. During that season
and the one just closed, she has been so far successful
as to make us sanguine that a regular steam commu-
nication may bo kept during the winter between the
two shores. During the summer, a ferry-boat crosses
between the two places every ten minutes.

About eighteen miles from Point Levi are the Falls
of the Chaudiere, a river which flows through the
gold fields, now attracting so much attention in Lower
Canada. Throughout its whole course of over one
hundred miles it flows over a rocky bed, and is full
of rapids. At the falls, its width is about 350 feet,
and the height of the cascade is about 150. "Instead
of descending in one continuous sheet, it is divided
by large projecting rocks into three channels or
cataracts, which, however, unite before reaching the
basin below. A globular figure is imparted to the
descending volumes of brilliant white foam, in conse-
quence of the deep excavations of the rocks, and the
clouds of spray produce in the sunshine a most bril-
liant variety of prismatic colors. The dark green
foliage that overhangs the torrent forms a striking
contrast with its snow-white foam.

A day spent in visiting the Falls of Stc. Anne and
the Church of the same name, will, we feel assured,
not be regretted by the tourist. The village may be
reached by steamer, or, should the visitor prefer a

TO QUEBEC.

horse and vehicle, he may proceed thither, passing in
his route the villages of Beauport, Montmorency, and
Chateau Richer. This church, dedicated to La bonne
Ste. Anne, is much venerated by the Roman Catholics,
who believe many miraculous cures to have been made
at its shrine. On the walls may be seen crutches
and other helps to the deformed, who, having been
cured of their infirmities, have presented thus their
useless aids as offerings to the saint. It is also stated
that one man who thus left his crutch behind him, was
persuaded to return for it, lest his cure should not be
lasting, and as a punishment for his want of steadfast
faith, his lameness returned as soon as he demanded
his crutch. The villagers of Ste. Anne arc said to be
very expert in catching the wild pigeons, which often
visit that vicinity in large numbers ; they do not shoot
them, but by means of nets, cords and pulleys, trap
them in quantities when they settle among the trees.
The precise method we cannot describe, having never
witnessed it, but from what we have heard, it seems
to be the same as described by Reach in his work,
Claret and Olives, as in use among the peasants of
the south of France. There is a comfortable inn close
to the bridge which crosses the river, where the
stranger will find "good entertainment for man and
beast." The Falls of Ste. Anne are two or three miles
from the bridge, a portion of which distance must be
traversed on foot, as it lies through the woods ; a
great portion of it is up hill, and at various spots fine
views of the river, up to Quebec, may be obtained.
Of the falls themselves and their surroundings, we
can convey no proper idea, the volume of the water
in the stream varying greatly according to the season
of the year. Like Niagara, it will strike different
people in various ways, according to their precon-
ceived ideas of the spot. There is about it a wild and
magnificent grandeur, which Niagara has not, and

TOURIST'S GUIDE

E fc

which can only be found where nature, in her grand
works, is not brought into immediate contact with
civilization, but left to reign undisturbed by the puny
efforts of art. Some few miles below is Lake St.
Joachin, where very good trout fishing may be had.
On the road to the lake some tiresome ascents have
to be made, but once the height has been gained the
lover of fine scenery will not regret the trouble he has
taken. From some points on the road, the whole
Island of Orleans and both channels of the St. Law-
rence arc visible, as well as the country on both sides
of the river for many miles above Quebec. Cap
Tourment, a lofty bluff further on, is thirty miles be-
low Quebec, and those who have visited its top speak
of the view thence obtained as truly superb ; one
friend also highly praises the blue berries he found
there as remarkably fine both in size and flavour.
We doubt if the latter would be sufficient to induce
many to make the ascent of this '' Cape of storms."

Formerly, most tourists from the West made Quebec
the ne plus ultra of their trip ; now, however, many
extend it to the watering places below, and with a
notice of these and the places intervening, we shall
leave him. We regret that want of space has pre-
vented our giving more than a hasty glance at most
things ; but should our first effort be favourably re-
ceived by che travelling public, we hope to present
them, another season, with a much more extended
Cruide.

Leaving Quebec by the steamer which traverses the
route between the city and the Sagucnay, we soon
are out in the stream, having a fine view of Quebec
and the valley of the St. Charles. A few miles below
the city, the fleecy foam of the Montmorency Falls is
before us, as the water, broken into spray, dashes down
the high rock into the St. Lawrence. The steamer
now nears the Island of Orleans, and taking the south

TO QUEBEC.

f33

»>

cliannel, which ia the one usually traversed by ships,
the left bank of the river is soon hidden from view.
The island is about twenty miles in length, and in
breadth between five and six. The greater portion
of it is under cultivation, and as the north channel is
always frozen over during the winter, the farmers
have communication with Quebec nearly the whole
year through. Near the west end and on the north
shore of it, are extensive rifle ranges for the use of
the troops, a portion of whom is usually stationed
there during the summer months.

St. Patrick's Hole, about eleven miles from
Quebec, is a fine anchorage ground, on the Orleans
coast. Here it was that the OolumbuSy a large vessel,
built solid, was constructed about thirty-six years
ago. She was the largest vessel ever built, and w*as
broken up and sold as timber when she reached Eng-
land. The fruit grown on the island is considered to
be about the finest in Canada, the blue plums, in
particular, being held in high estimation. Passing
the lower end of the island, we again come in view of
the dark range of the Laurentian Mountains, among
whose peaks the Mountains of Ste. Anne and Cap
Tourmente rise most conspicuous, the latter rising
over 2,000 feet above the stream, its lower portion
bare and rugged, and the loftier part covered with
stunted trees. Madam Island is now passed, and
almost opposite Cape Tourmente, we notice the Quaran-
tine Station of Grosse Isle, where all vessels coming from
sea are obliged to call. Here there is an extensive hospi-
tal, and important facilities are afforded to emigrants
for washing and cleansing their bedding and clothing
after their voyage. The establishment is in the hands
of the Government, and an efiicient staff is kept up
during the navigation season. Forty miles below
Quebec w^e come to the active little village of St.
Thomas, situated at the mouth of the South River.

TOURIST S GUIDE

Six miles further down, and we pass Crane Island ;
and five miles below, Goose Island, the property
of one of the orders of religieuses, and farmed
by their tenants. Wo next reach The Pillars,
sixty miles from Quebec, a small group of rocky
islets, on one of which the steamship Canadian struck
in 1857. A ligjit-house has been erected on one of
them. The well known and remarkable channel
called the Traverse is soon passed, and in the same
vicinity we see Isl^aux-Coudkes, or, the Island of
Filberts. Jacques Cartier anchored here during his
first voyage up the river, and bestowed this name on
it from the number of hazel nuts he found there.
The habitants of Isle-aux-Condres, it is said, retain
the type and manners of their Norman ancestors in
greater purity than any other of the French popula-
tion in Canada. The old French salutation, kissing
on both cheeks, is not uncommon among them. At
this we iko not wonder, as they have comparatively
little intercourse with strangers. The island itself is
a very fertile and beautiful spot. Ste. Anne, on the
south-east shore, on a bay of the same name, is a large
settlement, about seventy miles from Quebec. A
Roman Catholic College is established here.

Murray Bay, eighty miles below Quebec, on the
north-west shore, is at the mouth of a river of the same
name. It was at one time a favorite summer resort
of the Quebec and Montreal people, but has never
risen in favor to the extent that Kacouna and
Tadousac have. Among the population here many
ocotch names may be found, and the Celtic type of
face, though they are all French in language.

Kamouraska, on the opposite shore, is about ten
miles lower down the river, and contains about 2,000
inhabitants. A considerable number resort here
from the towns during the summer months, to enjoy
the salt-water bathing.

TO QUEBEC.

RiviERi: DU Loup, or Wolf's River, is a settlement
110 miles below Quebec, containing some 1,800 in-
habitants. The river, from -which the village takes
its name, is the largest tributary of the St. Lawrence
in that vicinity, on the south shore. At a bridge
which spans the stream, near the village, it is about
300 feet wide, but so shallow that canoes can hardly
navigate it. '' Near the village, the river is preci-
pitatcd over a ledge of rocks, forming a very beautiful
fall. The surrounding di^-ttrict is a fine farming
country, whicli gives food to the lumbermen who ply
their toilsome business in the forest-wilderness a little
way l)ack." Kacouna, which, as a fashionable resort,
has far outstripped the other bathing places we have
mentioned, is six miles from liiviere du Loup. It has
now several hotels, and some few families have summer
residences there. The Telegrapli Company have an
office there, and a daily mail has been established
between it and the upper portions of the country. It
is now very much the custom for the habitant families
residing in Kacouna to rent out their dwellings to
visitors for the summer season, they betaking them-
selves for the time to some less commodious building.
Kacouna is at present the favourite resort for salt-
water bathing, but a formidable rival to it is springing
up on the opposite side of the river, at the village of
Tadousac. .

Near the mouth of the Saguenay, the St. Lawrence
appears tinged with the black waters of the for-
mer. The village of Tadousac, near the mouth of
this extraordinary stream, is one of the oldest settle-
ments in Canada; and hero may still be seen a small
chapel, the lirst sacred edifice erected in the country.
''It is a frame building, about 25 feet by 80 in size
inside the walls, with a handsome altar and appur-
tenances placed partly in an octagon alcove in the
rear. The altar-piece represents the Crucifixion ; on
K

TOURIST S GUIDE

the left are two paintings, one of them a portrait of
the first priest who visited Canada, the other a scrip-
ture scene ; on the light is a representation of an
angel leading a little child. The roof is arched ;
there is a small gallery at the end, opposite the altar.
On one side of the church is a burial-ground, in which
are many graves." In the church is a bell with an
inscription which has hitherto baffled all attempts
made by the curious to decipher. A large and well
finished hotel has just been erected at this delightful
place, and we feel sure Tadousac will rapidly rise in
the public estimation as a summer residence. The
hotel has been built by a joint-stock company, and
the leading shareholders arc well known as men wlio
push forward in a vigorous and satisfactory manner
the enterprises they engage in.

At Tadousac, a trading post of the Hudson's Bay
Company has been long in existence. At a little
distance from the buildings of the trading post, a
clump of fir trees marks the place where the fortifica-
tions erected by the French once stood ; and in the
same vicinity may be seen the remains of tlie first
stone building erected i.n Canada. This was the
residence of Pcre Marquette, the explorer of the
Mississippi. Tadousac is about 180 miles from Que-
bec.

" The lliver Saguenay is formed by the junction of
two outlets of Lake St. John, which lies nearly 150
miles to the north-west of Tadousac. For some dis-
tance below the lake, the river presents some magni-
ficent cascades, where the water rushes between rocky
banks from 200 to 1,000 feet in height. Between
Ila Ha Bay and its mouth, the average width of the
stream is about one mile ; notwithstanding its great
depth, the ciuTcnt is swift when the tide is low, and
its effect is felt in the St. Lawrence for several miles.
More than thirty streams are tributary to it, and its

TO QrEBEC.

(37

color is so dark that, to the voyageur looking into it
from his vessel, it appears like ink ; it is also very
cold, and the seal is sometimes found here. The
distript of the Saguenay is very thinly settled, and
the population consists, in a great measure, of parties
in the employment of the Slessrs. Price, who have
large saw-mills on most of the streams and do a very
large business in the lumber trade. Some years ago,
these gentlemen had thirty-six lumber establishments
in this district, giving constant employment to up-
wards of four thousand men. Mr. D. E. Price, in 18G0,
stated before the Legislature that he considered the
Climate better than Quebec, though the extremes of
heat and cold are more felt for a few days, owing to
its nortiiern position. ^'But the Saguenay, being a
valley between very high mountains, is sheltered from
the spring blast of raw Avinds from the nortli, north-
east and east, so that our spring vegetation is almost
equal to the Eastern Townships, and in advance of
Quebec and the borders of the St. Lawrence in May
and June, when these raw winds prevail." The fol-
lowing remarks on Saguenay farming we extract
from the notes of a friend : — '' The farms vary in size
from 40 to 100 acres, and for the most part are well
fenced oft*. All kinds of grain, such as wheat, rye,
corn, &c., are raised on them, as is also tobacco,
which, when mixed with ^ Virginia,' is not unpleasant
to smoke. There is an abundance of wild fruit in the
country, and there is no reason why orchard trees
should not be introduced. Every liahitant has his
horse, and he takes peculiar pride in turning him out
in good condition on Sundays and fete days. All
Canadian horses can bear a great amount of fatigue
and travel great distances on consecutive days vrithout
sustaining injury. The Canadians of the Saguenay
do not seem to have any idea of the importance of
improving their cattle by crossing them ; the result

TOURIST'S ouiDr:

I !

'■>

is, that the animals yield poor milk and buttei> and
■worse beef. The breed of pigs is poor, and the sheep
diminutive. In spring, tlie cattle in many places are
little better than walking skeletons, and tlie sight
they present is shocking to human eyes ; in some
cases, almost too weak to stand, they are dragged
from their stalls to breathe the air and extract what
nourishment they can from the scanty herbage. If
they live, c'est ho)i : if tliey die, nimi^orte ! In the
latter case, their liidei are converted into inoccasins,
and our farmer and bis sr>ns dance hoK-s in them witli
all the anig-froid and ch'gance of the descendants of
the most accomplished of mankind.'"

The French Canadians of the Saguenay make all
their own cloths, kc-., and one thing wiiich must strike
an Englishman when, he sees a niunbor of the rural
population, is the absence of that l^oorishness of dress
and manner which stamps tlie same class in England.
In general, they are intelligent, ])olite and good
natured. There is comparatively little vice among
them, and were thev not l)oriie down ])v the pressure
of circumstances, there is no reason why tlie district
might not become as prosperous as any in Canada.

On enteriii;^ the S;'-gtienay, a magnificent viovr is
presented to the visitor, and sliould not be lost. h\
a short time the mouth of the St. "Marguerite is befori^
him= This river is v.ell known as a salmon stream,
and here the Prince of Wales tried his skill at an2;lino-.
though witliout success, during his recent visit Xo
Canada. Tl.c whole scenei-y of the Satj;uenay is of a
most imposing and peculiar character, and cannot
fail to impress the beholder with the littleness of man
and his works compared with those of nature. Jielow
lies the great river, se.veM hundred feet deeper than
the St. Lawrence, into which it flows ; and on each
side rises the immense granite walls which form its
banks, sometimes over-hanging the vessel in which we

TO QUEBEC.

1.^

I i

1 I

are borne along. About annile from the mouth of the
river, wc encounter La Boule, a peak on the north
shore, Avhicli rises, a round and solid mass of granite,
more than a thousand feet above the stream. Thk
Two Profiles, so called from their resemblance to
the human face, are specimens of nature's colossal
statuary, and are several hundred feet above the river.

5Vbout thirty-four miles from Tadousac we come to
the two grandest peaks of the Saguenay, Capes
Trinity and Eternity, both on the southern shore,
which stand like giant sentries at the entrance of
Trinity Bay. Trinity Bay is a semi-circular estuary,
about a mile wide at its entrance, which is flanked by
these peaks, nearly 2,000 feet in height. Cape
Trinity received its name from its three peaks, which,
though quite distinct, all form a portion of the same
great mass. The name of its companion, Cape
Eternity, was suggested by the ever-enduring ap-
pearance and almost imperishable material (primitive
granite) of the rock. At the foot of these capes the
river is said to be over 2,000 feet in depth ; and s(»
close do vessels pass, that tlie traveller may almost
grasp the branches of the trees which grow upon the
sides of these mi<i*hty rocks. Fortv miles from the
mouth of the river, we pass Statue Point, another
lofty, rocky mass. In this bluft*, there is a large
niohe, about 800 feet above the river, which looks as
though roughly hewn, to receive a statue, and in
which a rock resembling a human figure stood until a
few years ago\ It has since been displaced by frost
or some other natural cause, niche and statue being
alike inaccessible to man.

We next pass Les TAiiLE9vux, or, TJie Pictures, a
light- coloured rock, variously tinted, which rises
almost perpendicularly from the river, to a height of
several hundred feet, in some parts fully a thousand
feet above the water.

*■"■

I 1

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TOURIST'S GUIDE

Fifty-eight miles from Tadousac, we enter Ha Ha
Bay — in the Indian tongue, ** Ha Ha " meaning
laughing. This is also called Grand Bay, but we
prefer the Indian name. In this vicinity the moun
tains begin to disappear, and a good country opens
up. Upon each extremity of Ha Ha Bay there is a
small village, settled mostly by a Scotch and French
Canadian population. From Ha Ha Bay to Chic^u-
timi is a distance of twelve miles. Here there is a
small Roman Catholic Chapel, erected in 1727. The
steamboat navigation of the Saguenay ends here, the
river above being full of rapids and falls. A post
house of the Hudson's Bay Company has long been
in existence here; and in 1800, at o^fete, so numerous
was the gathering of the Indians, that thirty gallons
of shrub were drunk by the squaws in glasses. As
none of the "dames" became "elevated," we may
form some idea of the numbers present. The post
house was the birth-place of the late Peter McLeod,
Esq., one of the earliest settlers in this district, and
whose name is connected with many romantic stories
of the country. He was of an old Scotch family by
his father's side, but always took a vivid interest in the
Indians, from whom he was descended by his mother.

During the proper season very good salmon fishing
may be had on the Saguenay. This, as in most other
streams, became nearly destroyed for want of pro-
tective laws for fish ; but since the establishment of
a fishery inspector and proper laws, the numbers of
fish are again fast increasing.

.jf^

ADVERTISEMENTS.

•

COMMERCIAL

-"♦■■^»--*-

Cor. Sti Peter & Arthur Streets,

Immediately Opposite /^"Tl Cn"D"T^/^

The Bank of Montreal. ' ^ ^ " i r>JGjVy

Table D'Hote, Daily, from 11 a.m., to 4 p.m.

Meals Served at all Hours.

D. NOONAN, Proprietor.

HUNTER, ROSE & CO.;

26 ST. ■U■I^S"U■IL.E ST^^EET.

1 I

ADVERTISEMENTS.

Hurrah ! for the Gold Fields !

HOLMES & DAVIDSON'S

CtI^NF^TJAT.-

T o

Opposite the 6. T. Eailway Depot,

UliVERf^ will find a I.AIIGE A8S011TMENT of

Mining Tools, among which are the celebrated

SAi.iiF®tim !fic

5Eiy

-ALSO-

BOOT8 ArVD NiBOE^,

CLOTHING, PRESERVED MEATS, SPICED HAM,

LIQUORS, WINES, &c. &c. &c.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

EPICIERS EN GROS I EN DETAIL

54 & 56 RUE ST. PIERRE, DASSE-VILIE,

QUEBEC.

nm\m be tabac m m\m et a fdmer

45 Rue Richmond, Faubourg St. Jean.

WOODS & GO.

WINE & SPIRIT MERCHANTS

No. 22 FABRIQUE STREET,

UPPER TOWN MARKET PLACE,

DEALERS IN ALL KINDS OF

Spices, Pickles, Italian Sauces, and
Preserved Fruits, Meats, &c.

ADVERTISBMENTS.

Ti. FRECHETTE,

QUEBEC BATH HOUSE & RESTAURANT,

17 PALACE STREET '(opposite Russell's Hoto ).

OrEX DAILY FROM G A.M. TO 12 T.M.

■MKALS TO BE HAD AT ALL, HOUIIS

On hand, Fresh Oysters in Shell, Sardines, Lobsters, Sfc.

^N.B. — A Hair- dresser'.^ Shop is attached to tho above E^Ja-
blishment.

®, fowm'i i®f II

iUg

NO. 51 PETER STREET,

(Near Steamboat Landing)
QUEBEC.

nOARDIJWO ON ]?IODERATE TERlfl^

Fvert/ kind of Liqiiors always on hand,

NO EUNNERS EMPLOYED.

H. STOEBE,

No. 15 St. JOHN STREET, OPPOSITE PALACE [STREET.

IMPORTER OF

GEMIJI]¥E HAVAJ^A ClCi^AR!^,

Virginia Plug, and Fine Cut Chewing and Smoking
Tobaccos of every description.

Also, constantly on hand, a largv^ and selected stock of Meer-
chaum and BriarJPlpes, with -i great variety of fancy {^.■'ods ap-
ertaining to this line.

AI>VERTI^*EMENTS.

WM. MILLS' RESTAURANT,

OPPOSITE TUE POST OFFICE,
IPrKK TOIVJV,

QUEBEC.

ESTABLISHED 1816.

REYNOLDS' RESTAURANT,

NEXT TO THE TELKJRAPH OFFICE,

And opposite Montreal Ocean Steamship Go's Office,
ST. PETER STREET, LOWEll TOWN,

QVEBEC.

DINING UOOM OPEN FROM 6 A.M. TO 8 P.M.

FISHER, BROTHERS,

SPECIE Sl exchange BROKERS,

38 Bl. Peter Street, and 2 Buade Street, U.T.,

NKAHLY OPPOSITE THE POST OFFICE,

QUEBEC.

Uo:iiCrs in United States' Bank Notes, Colonial and all kinds

of Foreign Gold and Silver.

ir.urisn and ambrican silver bougut and sold at best rates.

OLIVIER GIROUX, M.D.,

No. IS EABRIQUE STREET, UPPER TOWN,

AND

.^2 ST. PETER STREET, LOWER TOWN,

QUEBEC.

Always on hand a large assortment of Drugs, Chemicals, Patent
Medicines, Perfumery, &c., &q.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

11.25

^^l

Ki |2.2

Wuu

11=

U III 1.6

- 6"

-3

PhoiDgraphic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 87i-4S03

ADVERTISEMENT.

•I

Manufacturing Jeweller and SilversmiHi,

22 COUILLARD STREET,

QUEBEC.

•0-

Jewellery made to order. Repairing done
with neatness and despatch.

STONES OF EVERY KIND SET.

MEERSCHAUM PIPES MOUNTED AND

REPAIRED.

GILiDinrG AIVD ElifiCTROPLATING

IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

ALL WORK WARRANTED TO GIVE SATISFACTION.

;:^ll orders attendtti to luUljout bela^.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

i t

P. SINCLAIR & SON,

Booksellers, Slalionefs, Printers and Bookbinders,

ST. JOHN ST., UPPER TOWN, QUEBEC,

Have always ou hand a largo and ■vrell-solocted Stock of

^lain anil jfmn] Itattnmni, tmh, ^c.

They receive regularly, by Steamers and Express, English
and American Magazines and Newspapers, together with the
latest publications as soon as issued.

a^^Special orders for Books, &c., sent weeldy to England
and daily to the United States.

SMEATONS'

^jjatngrttpliir ml %x\. fattes!

Opposite Russell's Hotel, I Opposite Bank Buildings,

Palace Street. I St. John Street.

Photography, in all its variety of styles, from the smallest
miniature up to the full length life-size

PAINTING in OIL or WATER COLORS.

VIE1¥S

Of all the principal points of City and environs.
PARTICULAR ATTENTION PAID TO CARTES DE VISITB.

ADVHlTlSEiME^Tr^.

•I I'

1^ 1

t):

ri^

i>i

WM. WEBB,
PORTRAIT AND LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHER,

40 St. JOHN STREET,

QUEBEC.

Portraits and Outside Views taken in the most approved
styles of tlic Photographic art. Colored in oil or water colors.

FAMILY DRUG STORE,

ST- JOiiN S GATE, WITIJIN.

JOHN W. McLEOD,
Apothecary, - Chemist & Druggist,

IMPORTER OE

Genuine English Drugs, Chemicals, Patent Medi-
cines, Perfumery, Fitncy Combs, Soaps, Brushes,
ttc, &c., &c.

Prescriptions accurately dispensed at all hours.

N.B. — Fresh Garden, Field, and Flower Seeds imported
every Spring, from the best English, French, and American

houses.

Attendance on Sundays, from 1) to 10 a.m., and 2 to 4 p.m.

Next door to the Express Office, and opposite to Messrs.

Tessier & Lcdroit's,

Sault-au-Matelot street, Lower Town,- Quebec.

THOMAS CARR, Proprietor.

Always on hand a large assortment of the choicest Wines
and Liquors, together with a good stock of the finest-flavored
Cigars,

ADVERTISEMENTS.

H. BMBATON,

No. 28, ST. JOHN STREET (wrniouT),
q U D B E € .

G. & C. l-IOSSACK,

GROCERS, WIIE fiHD SPIRIT DEALER.

CORNER OF

ANNE AND GARDEN STREETS, UPPER TOWN,

AND

36, Cittle €l)amplaiu ^tvttt, fioiocv QIoxdu,

Have always on hand a choice assortment of every tliina;
in their line.

1^1^ Country orders promptly and carefully attended to.

JAS. HOSSACK & Co.,

iMANUFACTUREllS AND IMl'OUTERS OF
niOPRIETOKS 01'

Pt(Jprc0ijr*s Wioxm ^o^ch^cp, ^ Jila^sath's |)ulmoiuc (Trochrs;,

No. 22, NOTRE DAME STREET, QUEBEC.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

GEORGE NOREAU,

EUE ET FAUBOUKG ST. JEAN,

BOWLTO

R. aLUNZ & CO.,

IN REAR OF QUEBEC BATH ESTABLISHMENT,
53" Always on hand — Liquors and Cigars of best qualities."^^

W. H. MICHAUD,

DEALER IN

TEAS, GOFFEE, SUGARS, LIQUORS,
AND ALL KINDS OF GRAIN AND FLOUR,

CORKER OF GRAia AND QUEEN STREETS,

ST. ROCH'S, QUEBEC.

N. B.— COAL OIL and LAMPS always on hand.

AN,

'ill J

CO.,

JHMENT,
[ualitie3.''^a

[JORS,

9 FLOim,

STREETS,

rs on hand.