4f
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TRIFLES FROM MY PORTFOLIO.
BY J. M. LKMOINK,
AUTHOR OF " MAPLE LEAVES."
BiBiid
Philea:
SQACNON,r
'I' K I F L E S FRO M M \' V O R T F 1. 1 O
BY J. M. LEMOINE, AUTHOR OK " MAPLE LEAVES.
iriE (;i;lf steamers — father loktus —
GASl'E — PERCE — PASl'EBIAC ALIAS
PASPY JACK, ALIAS POSPILLAT — MAL
BAY — DOUGLASTOWM.
On the 12th Sept., a soft and hazy after-
noon, the good steamer " Gaspe," Com-
mander Baquet, was gliding noiselessly past
the many lovely isles of the St. Lawrence^
past' the/Fraverse, past the Pilgrims; so
noifielessly,fin fact, that, to one standing on
short it might have seemed that she had
returend to her old trade, viz : secretly
carrying cotton from the land of Dixie to
the white cliifs of Old England, in spite of
thej screeching .of the American Eagle.
Though a good sea boat, she is not by any
means a last one; and as blockade runners
are expected to show at times a pair of lieels,
and this she failed to do, she was forced, on
receiving two shot holes in her ,bovv, to
alter her ways. It is owing" to this that
she became a respectable Canadian craft —
one of the Gulf Port .Steamers. After en-
joying a substantial meal, the passengers,
one and all, ascended to the deck; some to
smoke — some to talk politics — some to
r-ack jokes — a motly assembly from every
part of the Dominion, and some foreigners.
Amongst the latter was a, big-fisted fadre.
who persisted in cracking tremendous
jokes. There was in his behavior some-
thing peculiar, some made him Jout an
American — others said he belonged to
the Greek dispensation. As he was fierce
at times — as fierce, in fact, as a Greek
when "Greek meets Greek" — we all
agreed a Greek he should be, and such he
remained to us, under the historic name of
suggested to " wait until morning." No
clergyman was thrown overboard, and
next morning — why, it was calm. At 9
a.m. a boat came alongside, ami took
ashore the passengers for Father Point and
Rimouski, including a most jovial Quebec
broker.
On all that day our brave steamer kept
her course, under steam and sails, amidst
the gorgeous scenery of the St. I>awrence.
In the distance were visible the blue peaks
of mountains bathed in autumnal sunshine,
their wooded valleys and green gorges all
aglow with the bla/e of colors which .Sep-
tember drops on the foliage of our maple
and oak trees, — gold, crimson, red, maroon,
amber, jiale green, brown — a landscape
such as neither Claude Loraiiie nor I^aiid-
seerever dared to attempt in theii' bright-
est day dreams ; a spectacle which invests
the most humble Canadian cot with hues
and surroundings denied ro the turreted
castle and park of the proudest English
nobleman. On we steamed, past Cape
Chate, a name borrowed two centuries back
and more from the Commander de Chate,
a French nobleman, and mentioned as
such by Champlain in his map as early as
1^)12. Antiquarians will please take note
that it has nothing to do with a cat,
(whether a rhat or a chatte) the learned
dissertations to the contrary notwithstand-
ing. A beacon for ships was lighted on it
on the iith August last.
On tlie opposite side, where the Lauren-
tian chain seems to end. is Pointe des
Monts (the Point of the Mountains), and
not Pointe Demon (the Devil's Point) as
some geographers have been pleased to in-
" Father Loftus." * * ♦ * *' scribe on the charts; some, however, will
Soon the wind sprung up; the ship she have it that M. de Monts, more than two
rocked; a storm was brewing. Was it centuries ago, bequeathed it his name,
owing to having clergymen on board .!■ An Antiquarians, there is a nut for you to
irreverent joker advised to throw one of't^iack!
them overboard ; it was, however, mildly I The trip was truly delightful.
Trifles from My Portfolio.
We hail on board some "choice Bpirits"
of an enquiring turn of mind — constantly
making experiments to ascertain which
was the best cure for !sea-sickneK!>. As the
steamer rolieci consid Tabiv at times, the
eiu]uiry had a practical bearing. Whs
"hot Scotch" a specific in all cases i" Or
was Irislj potheen to he resorted to when
the patient felt a kind of sinking sensation
at the pit of the stomach? Here, as well
as at the Vatican, the opinions were divided
us on the cjuestion of intallibility. After
steaming thirty-eight hours, the " Gasp^"
was securely moored at Lowndes wharf,
(iaspe Basin, one of the most snug harbors
in all British North America.* The beach
below is occupied by stores, warehouses,
olTices ; the heigh Is where the (J' 1 1 arras, Per-
chards ami .Arnolds fonneriy lived, are now
held by the modern aristocracy of (iaspe,
and otlicials on both sides of the Basin. (Jn
the south side, amidst trees, frowns Kort
Ramsav with its cannon. The new and
substantial residence of Hon. John LeBou-
tillier, M.L.C.. is conspicuous iVoni afar,
amongst the less >lu>wy ilwellings of
several other members of his clan.
On the corresponding shore, sits the
roomy dwelling of the respected Collector
of the port, |. C. Belleau, Esij., a Irue-
hearted patriot of 1S37, who. with the
Vigera, DeWitts and other men of note,
were consigned to dungeons most dismal,
for having dared to suspect that under the
Family Compact there were some abuses
in Canada. Adjoining the Collector's
residence, and facing the spot where the
Royal sipiadron anchored in i860, with the
Prince of Wales on board, riourishes the
temple of Roman Catholic worship. They
were grand times, indeed, these gala days
of [S6o, when Albert of Wales visited his
Royal mother's lieges, the Gaspesians.
The oflicials. military and civil, turned out
in tremendous force. Plumes, cocked hats,
^ong-tailed coats, short-tailed coats, coats
• tJiispp Bay is well descrilx-il liy Cliampliiin, p.iyt-
'<*>.S — iXJ &c.; tilt ii.mit: it.MjII, it is .suf,'ncslcil by hi-,
intniiientalors, is, horrowi'il t'rom tiie pirtiirtj,i)uc
irifk, diLRlied IVom the shnix- ihrco miUs hiyhcr Ui.ii\
Cape (l.Tspc, known tn ^c.lrn(;^ ,is "Ship I Uad, ''or tin-
'• Old ^V'oiii ui." IrciMi ihe sinjj;iil.ir ir.i n?,!i;i ination t(i/-(;/i' ( ihridt'i'd into ^'t.^^ni.)—S,■,•Clu)m■
I without tails, spurti, swords, helmets, every
I device, in fact, calculated to lend <'c/(// to
I the pageant.
I Amongst other items of news, we heard
it talked (if to restore to Gasp^ an office of
I high rank and ancient creation — the
I olfice of Lieut.-Governor of Gasptf . Major
1 C(jx, in 1775, appears to have been the
I resident Lieut.-Governor. We were shown
a hickory chair that belonged to him.
This seat did not seem firm, nor very dur-
able, though it was a century old; we felt,
on sitting down on it, just like a Governor
— pardon, a Lieut.-Governor — as Lieut. -
Ciovernors ,/ less secure and luxuriously.
In the good Tory da>s many ollices exist-
ed with emoluments well defined and
duties very problematical. The Lieutenant-
Governorship of Gaspd. with a salary of
i' 1,000 and perquisites — why, there were
many things worse than that!
Should a Lieut.-Governor be now ap-
pointed for Gaspi — amongst the residents,
no one at the Basin can doubt who it will be.
Messrs Joseph and John Eden own ex-
tensive wharves and stores on the beach;
but, alas, the Free Port system, which
crammed the Gaspe stores with goods and
deluged the coast with cheap gin and St.
Pierre de Miquelon brandy, is a dream now
— a melancholy dream ui the past. We
have to thank the afoiesaid active Govern-
ment olVicers for their courtesy to .strangers*
The old Coflin Motel, now much enlarged,
is beautifully located on the hill, and
merely reipiires an experienced "Russell"
to retider it profitable, and a source of
pleasure to the many tourists wiio will
iiereafter wind their way each summer to
Gaspe Basin.
Higher up than their wharves, the
Messrs Lowndes have in operation an ex-
tensive saw-mill, which provides daily
bread for many, many Gasp(i families.
Let us hope it tnay tlourish.
One of the chief amusements at Gaspe
Basin during the summer months, is
yachting and bobbing for mackerel, just
outside the Basin, in the Ba}'. It is a most
exciting and itivigorating pastime. The
worthy American Consul counts on num-
erous American craft entering the basin
so soon as the new Washington Treaty goes
in force.
Trifles froiH My Portfolio
ClIAPTKU II.
GASl'E BASIN — UOlMiLASTOWN — PUINT ST-
I'KlIiR'S — MAL BAY — NKW CAKLISLK—
rASl'EBlAC;— TKi: <.KI.\I ir.K>ii-.v KIKMs.
There is sonietliinL; siiiitiihiily striking
when, on a briglil SiUiiiiJav inommg, ul
break of day, with the far-reaching I>ay ol
Gaspi before you lit up wilh golden sun-
shine, your ear catches th- boom of the
heavyguns fired by thetwoCiulf Port steam-
ers — the one from I'lclou, tlu- oilier from
Quebec; their usual signal on Hearing the
placid waters of the IJasiii. They an; so well
timed that both freipiently arrive logether.
Hark! to the wild eclu) boumling over the
waters, and then leaping from peak to
peak in this wierd, mountainous region.
Three centuries ago and more, otiier echoes
no less wild disturbed the ipiiet of this tbrest
home — the shouts of joy of jacijues Car-
tier's adventurous crew, wlieii plain ing a
cross on the sandy |)oiiU a! the entrance, on
the J.jth July, 15,54 ; 'i"^' when taking po' ses-
sion in the name of Francis I of l''raiice:
not, however, without an energetic protest
being then aiul there niaile by a great
chief, "clad in a bear ^kin. and standing
erect in his canoe, followed by iii^ numer-
ous warriors." Ilakluyt tells us that the old
chief was enticed on board the French
ships, and on his sons TaiguraL: n v and
Dom.igaya being decked out in most gor-
geous raiment, he was prevailed to let the
vain youths accompany the French cap-
tain to the couit of the French King. I'cjor
vain lads! had vou been wisi.' yon would
have jum]>ed overlx^anl ami svvain upbore
when you passed Ship Head.
Where are no'v the (.lescendaiits of the
tierce Imliaiis who th>n grei-ted Caitier, amt
whose huts were loi'ated on 'lie lockv ledge
where I now stand.' There vveic Ihen no
swiftsteamers churning th'se ghid wattis -
n(j golden wheat-fields, as iIiom- 1 can now
see at Sandy Be.-ich ; but e\'ei\wher<' the
torest primeval — its ghjom— its inukless
wilds — its us.;les<;ness lo civili/eu man.
On we s|)cd, with Nteam and sails Soon
opened on us the extensive old selllcin'iit
of Douglastowu. It was not named alU r
any tierce lllaek Dougla.-,. celebi ileil in
song, but bv an unas^ninin.; l.itul>ur\''y' t
I of that name. Numerous descendants of
I the first settlers, of 17.S5— the U. E. Loyal-
ists — still survive : the Kennedys, Thoinp-
! sons, Murisons, biz., industrious fishermen
Jail. The wli )k I5a> is studded with fishing
stations and small villages, in which gene-
rall\' the R. C church is the most conspi-
cuous object. Alter parsing Grand Grave
, and Chien IJlanc, both the scene of awful
I marine disasters, the steamer hugs the
' shore towarils I'oint St. Peter's, a large
I and important fishing settletnent, and
, creeps through a deep channel between the
' rock> ledge calletl Plateau and Point St.
Prlei's. and another thriving fishing loca-
tion called Mai Hay. According to Champ-
lain and hi.- commentator, the origin of
I the name is taken frotn Molue.s or Monies
Bale (Codfish Hay) — which the English
turned into M;d Hay.
I lowevi'r, tlon'l be surprised at any trans-
I lormation in these wild regions, as Cat
! Cape (Cap Ciiatte) and Devil's Point
(Point des Monts) suHiciently testify, I
might add another (p;eer transmogrifica-
tion. At St. l-uct» thi.'re is a deep cove
and jutting poirit; in spring it is in-
tested with muscl'.'s, which the French call
(fcs Coci/iits: hence tlie F'rench name
/.' Aiisr iiiix Coa/iiis. Hut the English will
ha\e a cock instead, and have named it
Cock Point. I know I shall make the
mouths of aiuii|uariaiis water when 1 tell
ihi-m 1 ha\e at last, alter a deal (jf research,
got hold of the origin of the name of Father
Point, a little higher up than Cock Point;
but of this hereafter. Let us hurry on to
the great, grand, and growing capital on
tin; Canatiiau side of Haie des Chaleurs
I New Carlisle!. All know why the Bay
was called Haie des Chaleurs by Cartier,
thouj^h all of u- on board the '• Gaspe'
tbuiul the place extremely cold.
On -.1 high bank, with a southern exj^o-
suie, lii;s a line champagne country laid out
in -quale blocks of four acres each, for a
tow n— chiefly inhabited by English and
I Si'.'icli. with an ICpiscopalian church, a
\ Uoman Catholic ciuirch. a new court-
! hon-c and jail, and no le-- than two judges,
( living within view of each other. Two
I rc-ident judges in N';j>v Carlisle remind
lone ol the two rival Roman Catholic
rliurche- s'ariii 2 ,it )ii ■ aiv")tn.;r at Trois
6
Trifles from My Pirt/nlio.
Pistoles— one cvidi-ntly will have to knock I
under, the |)liice cannot afford such a
luxury. It is said there Ik hereenough litiga-
tion to fatten three resident lawyers, and
that there are three physicians in the place.
It is healthy notwitiistanding, and some of
the inhabitants have been known to attain
great ages. Little or no fishing is done at
the shire town. I had not time to find out
whether it derives its name from an Earl of
Carlisle, or from Thomas Carlyle the Es-
sayist, a great coiner of words. From the
readiness with which words and names are
altered, one would fain believe it hails from
tlic great essayist. One case in point: that
of the neigiiboring fishing settlement — its
commercial emi^oriuin — Paspebiac. This
is an Indian name — the English-speaking
population have altered it into Paspy Jack.
Thev call themselves Paspy Jacks, and the
French, who get their backs up readily,
especially since they liave had I'arliamcn.
tary elections to manage, call it Pofpillat
and themselves D^■^ Poxfiillufs. In Bishop
Piessis's account of his mission here in
iSii, we read that in jnany instances the
maternal ancestors of the Pospillats were
Micmac sqiiaws. much to the disgust of the
neighboring settlements. These half-breeds
were then accounted fierce and revengeful.
Tom Carlyle must have hatl something to
ilo with this wori! coining. But let us re-
turn to the county town. The view from
the heights is mo-t im()osing. \'ou notice
here and there a better style of dwelling,
trim flower-gardens interspersed with the
scarlet clusters of the mountain ash or roan
berr\ — comfortal)le old homesteads, like
that of the Hamiltons — splendiil new resi-
dences, like that of Ur. Robitaille. M. P. *
"New Cirlislp \v;is fust >otllcoy:ilisls.
tli;il is, hv persons wln'sc Inv illv Inline liritisli Crown
iimIuckI thcin to lc:ivf the I'tulicl Sl:iti-s al the period
ol the Kcvolutioii. Tlu'si' persons oliliiini'd true
j^rants nf land, iijjricii.'tural implftnciits, sci'd and pro-
visions for one year. Lieut .- of XS.ijixio
>terlinir, a hirsje amount wlieii we consider the little
proirre^s made in I'ither locality. The .Mdw Ferhind
.slater 111 It |ud'_T Thoaij>son once joculaiU oh-erved
There are several educated families
located at New Carlisle, which renders it a
most pleasant residence, especially during
the summer months; but beware how you
utter the word " Election," and keep a
dignified reserve on this explosive subject
until you are at least past, on your return.
Ship Head or Fox River. Talking of fierce-
ly-contested elections reminds one of the
great election o*" Eatanswill, mentioned in
" Pickwick." Forty-fi e green parasols,
jiuliciously bestowed, had turned the scale
on that eventful day.
In Canada, barrels of flour are said to be
moreeflective. However, let us hope that in
Bonaventure, the election was carried with
that lofty patriotism and excjuisite purity,
the shinitig characteristic of all Canadian
elections in June last ! 1 1 Hem ! !
F'or tourists in quest of healHi, sea-bath-
ing and good fishing, I know few places
more eligible than Baie des Chaleurs and
Gaspc Basin.
Paspebiac, with its roadstead running
out to a point in the Bay, is the seaport —
the great fishing stand of the Messrs.
Robin and the Messrs. LeBouthillier
I5iothers. The fishing establishments — a
crowd of nice while warehouses, witli doors
painted red, comprising stores, ofilces
forges, joiners' shops, dwellings for fisher-
men, even to powder magazines — are on a
low beach or sand bar, connected with the
shore by a ford for horses, and a trestle-
work bridge for foot passengers, which is
taken down each fall and restored each
spring at tlie expense of the Messrs. Robin.
It seems singular that the business and
wealth centered here cannot afford a bridge.
Crossing by ford al night, when the tide is
high, is anytliing but an agreeable pros-
pect. Perhaps when «ome of the magnates
ol tiie place are found drowned in the ford,
the i?ri(iL(c question will assume a more
tangible phase.
I'aspebiac is three miles east of New Car-
lisle. Here the Custom House is located.
I'lie Collector is J. F\aser, Esq.. an active,
well-informed old .Scotchman. The baron
to the Roman Catholic Hishop of t^ii hei , that '' this
sum can only have been spent in making excavations
nndcrtrround, nothinu appearinjf on the snrlace to
ju--tifv such an cjutlay!"— /^rcVv (liisf<,- Siiiiii-y.
Trifles from My Portfolio.
whicli ilie fishing warehouses, stand, is | thfiugh a worthy rival of its neighbors, it
a regular triangle formed by sand and is not so ancient as the great house of C.
other marine lir/n'tus. The interior of the R. C. (Charles Robin & Co.) N -ne of the
triangle isgradually filling up. The fisher- Robins, however, reside here. C. R. C.
men dwell here in summer, and remove to is a mighty name on the Gaspe coast. It
their winter quarters on the heights in rear has existed more than a hundred years,
in December. | Whether the "Co." is represented by
It was in 1766 that Charles Robin. Esij., sons, as formerly, I cannot tell; perhaps,
first landed at Paspebiac and explored tlie like the great London house immortalized
coast in a small brig called the '• Sea- ' by Dickens, C. R. C. might now mean
Flower." Forty-six years previous (17J0) daughters — it is well known " Dombey it
other explorers were landing a little to the : Son" turned out a daughter; but who
south in the "May-Flower." On nth June, ! cares.' C. R. C. amongst the CJaspesians
1778, two American privateers plunder-^d represent millions; seven vast establish-
Mr. Robin's store of all his goods, furs, and ments rejoice under this mystic combina
seized his two vessels, the " Bee" and the
" Hope," which were moored in the Paspe-
biac Roads. But the " Bee " and the New
England privateers were all recaptured in
the Restigouche,by II.B.M. vessels " Hun-
ter" and " Piper ;" and the heavy salvage
tion.
It would be akin to sacrilege to say, at
Paspebiac, that they could be alTected by
hard times. No one can fathom their
resources: no one dare dispute the princi-
ple on which each establishment is carried
Mr. R. was called on to pay, viz : one-eighth, on. The poor clerks and managers, 'tis
caused him to fail, and he left for Jersey. In ' true, cannot own wives or families at their
1783 he returned, sailing uniler French ] residences at (iaspe; the founder of the
colors and continued to accumulate wealth
until 1803, when he left for Europe.
On the green hills in rear, the , MI(-MA(
ACqiAINTANTK— NOl \ KI.I.K — t Mli.orAl
— PORT DANIKI.— riM-; (II.DISI MA^(>K
IN THF. DOMINION.
The Mic-Mac and other liuliaiis li.ni'
jjfradually deserted many points of Uic
Gasp^ coast, which swarmed wilii them
rormeriy. Some ^cx) or (\vnt have i-oni(i-e-
jjaled at Mission Point, on tiie Re^tis^ouche.
up Hay des Chaieurs, Douhtless the lierci
Vospillats will also gradually decrease in
numbers as the admixture of Indian l)li)f)d
is not favorable either to morality oi- loln-
nization. [..eft to their unbridled instincts,
what delightful drinkiny-bouts these lazy
mountaineers, the Mic-Macs. must have!
What wholesale slaughter '»f the lordly
.salmon, at all seasons, wliether it is spawn-
ing or not ! I low many moose and caribou
are left in the close season to rot mi the
mountains, with their fomjue, nioullli' or
hide alone removed' This indix riminatt-
slaughter of our tinest uianie b:is already
rendered extinct the majestic Wapite,
■which one hundreii and thirty years atjo
roamed in countless droves oyor a i^reat
portion of l^ower Canada. Now. you have
to go all the way to the Kockv Mountain'-
to get a sight of the Wapite. 1 am no ail-
tnirer of the red man, tboui,'h I'cniniore
Cooper can make a lieri^ of him : those I
have inet so far, with some exceptions, I
felt inclined to see them improved — as
Brother Jonathan improves them — nlVthe
face of the earth. Om; of these except ions
is Peter Jiaskel. ICsC]. of Restigouche.
Peter Basket is the name of the L;reat
Mic-Mac chief who visited (.^leen Victoria
and the Prince Consort, about iSso. and
returned loadeil with pres^-nts. As lu'
seems to delight in courts ami ^reat folks,
may I ask whether he or some ancestor of
his was one of the orators who fortnerlv
waited on His Excellency, Lord Aylmer.'
eral, he once went on an excursion to
(lasp^. Amongst others who Hocked there
to welcome the representative of royalty
were Mic-Mac Indians, numbering some
500 or ^KK). When Ills Excellency landed
with a brilliant statV. he was met by this
n^pectable deputation of the aboriginal
race. The chief, a line powerful man, sur-
rounded by his principal warriors, at once
commenced a long oration delivered in the
Usual solcnin, sing-song tone, accompa-
nied with fretiuenf bowing of the head. It
happened that a vessel had been wrecked
some months previously, in the Gulf, and
the Indians, proving themselves ready and
adroit wreckers, had profited largely by
the windlall. Among (jthei' ornatncnts
which they had seized, was a box full of la-
bels I'or decanters, inarked in conspicuous
character. Rum. (jin, Brandy, iVc. The
chielhad his head liberally incircled within
ornament-, of the usual kinil. and, on this
occasion, had dexterously atllxed to his
ears and nose sgiuc of the labels. At the
beginning of the inte'view, these were not
particularly discerni!)le amid the novelty
ol the spectacle; and it was only while lis-
teniiig to the lengthened harangue of the
sax age chief that His ICxcellency began to
-crutini/e his appearance and dress; and
then bis ears and nos(! with the labels in-
scribed Urandy, (iin. Rum, iVc. (jlancing
toward his stall', he coidil no longer main-
tain his gravity, and was joined in a hearty
but indecorous burst of unrestrainable
laughter. The indignant chief, with his
t"ollowers. immediately withdrew, and
would neither l)e pacified nor persuaded to
return, although the cause of His Excel-
lency's ill-timed merriment was explained
•o him.'
The road, on leaving Paspebiac beach
reaches the heights — some nicelv-wooddd
heights formerly the property of Mesrs. Rob-
in \Co., now called llojietown, a thriving
settletnent of industrious and economical
Scotchmen, llantlsome cottages are rapid-
ly taking here the place of the forest. The
village of Nouvelle comes next; then a set-
tlement called Chigouac, with a good mill
stream, and two grist mills erected on it.
When being jolted in a two-wheeletl post
stage, without springs, over these vihain-
Trifics from My Poriftuio. 9
ou« road«, tlir traveller will do well to lix I any larj^t; size; but there is jjoud anchorage
before liaiul tlie stoppinj,' places (for meals) \ under the Cape. (Jn this, the ea»l side ot
a«i hoRtelriex are tew and fnr between, j the river, just at the harbor'> mouth, snusuvory of its products! The "Ga^iie Fishery and Coal Mining
— fresh li«l.— always at coniniand. .Such Company'' coruivienced an ehlablishment
would he a licliision and a snare. On my and built a couple of small vessels on thi»
coinplainiu;,' once of this deprivation, my ; river— and their so-called coal-field, a Ifctl
th()Ui;hlfiil landlndy informed me that hhe ' 0/ s/uile, is about three miles up the strciim.
hud refr.iined from -^ivini; me two days in | Crossini^ the I'erry about a (piarter of a
Mieccskion, fi«!»h macliC'rcl trom fear of, mile further, is another river, on which
hurting my feelings, and lesi f should .^o tiicie is a small saw-mill." — /-|>c'.v (rUs/>(!
away with ttieidea that no olher diet could Siiw/rrv.
hf. hal i)iit a li-.h diet. As a rule, you can ! must conl'ess, thi> picture»[|ue sunlit
count oil the perpirtual •• Ham ;tnd Egt;s," i landscapi- will dwell loii^ in ir.y menior\.
for breakl'avl. diiiniT and sup|)er; but in Possibly, some sfiols you visit for the
»(>ine portions of these latitudes, the hens, lirst time, seem to \(Hir enchanted eye still
it appearii. on strike either tor le»s work, inore lo\ely, from the jjleasant associations
or better food, bad decidctl not to lay, and wliich linger arounii them. A slight ai-l
J had to m-'.ke the mostof"lJain" .vf/z/i. i of kindness where _\ou e.vpectcil but the
This ham regime, when protracted, gels irk- j cold iiulillerence of the world ; a hospitable
sonic; you l(;ng tor the eg<; cOLintiN , where welcome; the hanil of good I'ellowshii),
hens aie not on »triki'. An omelette lei me cordially exteiuleil by an utter slrant^er;
tell you is not a thing to be lightly talked i the exchange of cultivated ideas ami intel-
of or despised, my sherry - sipping and lectual converse where, at best, you count-
plum-pudilingcating travelling friend. An ' ed merely on the rude and unsympathi/ing
epicure ol' mv acciuaintanee hold.-, as an 1 gaxe of tlie boor or the stranger : such in-
axiom that i! reipiirci. three pcrbons to cidenls, no doubt, contribute to cre.nte vivid
serve up an omi;lette properly; one to mix \ lasting aiul pleasurable emotions, which be,
it — another to try it — a third to turn it in ing identitied with the landscape itself, leave
the pan, withouL lodging it in the lire. a doli;^hllul I'ccord in the chambers of
Hut on thjij iioini 1 I'ound nothing in ' memory. It v,;is n.y good fortune to ex-
llaekluyt nor in I'urehar.. great I ravellers perience this welconue at I'url Daniel. The
though they be. Chief Magistrate of Port Daniel, William
An lioiir'*, liriv; iroin i.'lii^ou;u- brings ■ .Macpherson. K.sq.. is a well-int'ormed and
you to a beautilul farmin.; ctuuitiy, a deep, warm-hearted \V'orsJiii)t"ul Mayor, I should
picturcstiuc bay— called Port D.miel in s.iy the Prince and Nestor ot' Mayors on
the Township of Port D:uiiel. wiiicli begins the C.uspe coaM, as 1 Icarii iie has graced
at Poiute au Ma4|iu-reau, a rocky p,)ini jut. the ci\ic chair twcnly-six years, lie is a
ting in ihe sea. W'nen you reach the sum • Scot, a true .Scot. L'luier what portion of
mil of the range ot' Cap au Di:d)le, the , the vault of Heaven will you not find a
beautit'ul Uay of Port Daniel siiddvuly uu'i'l^ Ciiniiy .Scoi. prospctous. high in place,
tiie eve, and :t upleiuiid aiul varied ])!ino- well-to cio.'^ The great tea-in*;rchants in
raina lies bel'orr \()u. As yt>u descend the ;C!>ina are .Scodli ; the greatest philoso-
luoiiiilain on a fine »uniini-r al'ternoon. an pliers in the I'nited Kingdom of Great
intere>.ling and iir.iuKing scene .)fien pre- , Britain are Scotch; the wealthiest corn-
sent* itself. The innumerable ^►hing boats panic* in Cnnada are .Scotch — Allan, iv:c.
having returned, men, women and chil- j At the Council Board in the Dominion
dren are all busily engageit in laiuiing. j Government ; in ( )ntario ; (juebcc — Mac
•plittin;; >ki\d conveying the tish to the 1 Donalds. MacDonald*., RohertRons, all
• tagtt*. At the mouth of Port Daniel Riv. ; Scots. Am i not then justified in quoting
«r we have again the u«ual lagoon, aiul iar from the i)ria;e poem read at the St. Andrew'*
whicli prevauts the entrance of veh»eU o j Meeting in Montreal, Halloween, iS()6: —
lO
Trifles from Mv Por/folio.
" An' sac it i* the wide woi " o'er
On fair or bnrren spot
Krae Tropic isles to Arctic »liore
Ye'U fin" the canny S«ot
All post* (;' lioniir weel he tills,
I i.ai snbjeirt o' his C|ii«en ;
For liiyalty an' honcMy
L'l»ini kin \vi' ll.Tllowcen ;"
So loiiij life to llii WoKhIp ot IVirt
Daniel!
/LiUoivent. 1S71 .
Cii\i'Ti;u I\ .
brave men, so many lovint^ young hearts.
On my way down 1 had been shown, in the
churchyards at Paspebiacand Port Daniel,
the graves of the lliidsons, of Cap. Kent,
and of se^' ;.i' other victims of that ship-
wieek.
IJelore the era of liijht-houses, fog-whis-
tlcs, beacons. iVc., the coast of Gaspc was
particularly dreaded by English inariners
bouiul lor Montreal or C^^iebec. Many and
heart- rend i Hi: wore the tales of marine dis-
astel•^, starva:ion and death, in these loca-
lities: hut none left a lieeper impression
than tin; loss of the ill -fated barque " Col-
borne," stranded at Pointe-aii-M:ii|ueroaii
on the i6ih October, 1S3S.
'i'lie exlraonlinai'v value of her cargo. —
THE sui:'wm:i K-
THE I_)IS.\STI:K.
HI- OWN" \T KSH)N Of
; some .>-)(X).oof) worth of silks, wines, hard-
HARIUNOTOX COVE - P. ,ixTK - Ai.-M v.i.1 K- ^^..^,.^^ ^,,^.^,,. pi.^,,., .p^.^j,., drifting ashorc
KEAU— THE LOSS oE THE '" coEHoRXE " ' at Harrington's Cove and Port Daniel, a
IN iS.^S — AX L'XExrEcTEi) KEXcoxTRi: N'astluap of confusion; the spoils picked
WITH OXE oE Tin: EEW suKVivoKs oE "P ''-^' ^vrcckcrs; the sale by auction of such
ur.told wealth, which built up the fortiuies
of many a nobby family; the apjialling
loss of life, exposure and siiflerings of the
few survisors, all convpired to render the
shipwreck of the Montreal trailer a most
haridwiiig, ;i memorable occurrence. It
now com iiiem(>rates an '.-r.-i on the (iaspe
Coa^t.
.After crossing l)y the fortl at Port Daniel,
the patii wiiuf^ round a cape of very rug-
ed aspect. l>y some it is called Cap
d'lCnler, by others Cap an Diable, and to
The 2ist .September 1N71, was indeed a
bleak, glriomy day o" t!ie sea I'oa-'t:
the ;uitumnalequini)x \\ a- r.'i_;ing. .Scrauib-
ling over mountain gijrge^ ;ind tlark gul-
lies in a s[)riugie>s. two-wheeled ]iost st:ige
is not cheering at any time, still less with
a raw ea->terly wind and i!riz;'.l i iig rain
switching your face. One leature of the
landscape was in piarvi-llou> keeping with
the surrounding gioom — the ceaseless roar <>nc a!-cending these dreary heights, at the
of the surf on tlu' iron-ijoiuu! coa.^t I w:is
skirting.
gluaming, on a bleak autumn evenii^g, it
tloes seem a haunt not uncongenial to His
Satanic Majesty. An artist might httingly
dejiict ti e .Spirit ol" Evil hovering over
Pointe-au-Maciuereau, under the guise of
the •'Flying DiHchman," looking out for
^ome storm-tos>ed bark to revel in the
de;ith-groans ot' the drowning mariners.
I On we jogged. o\er rough roads and
grander tones— never in inoie impressive i rougher bridges, unti 1 the sombre outlines
iTiajesty. 1 cannot say it had exactly a de- of the trees in the vallev bent-ath, were
" A hollow, lioilow, hnllov.' sound,
A^ is that (liwuny ri>:n-
Wlien ilistallt hillo\s'> lioil and hoiniil
Aloni; ;c sliini;ly ■-I'ort."
- /f<,Hl.
Never had 1 heard ohl (')ct'an's vciice in
seaicely visible at all. lAenino bad fairl\'
set in; tlu- rain, winil. ;nui moaning ol'the
pressing inlhience : it made one thoughlful.
Closing in with the dark r(jcks of I'ointe-
au-Mac|uereau, bristling with their silvery 1 sea increased. Seein- no dwelling, I at
crest of foam. I nalnr:illy tiioughi. o( (he la^d a-ked the jelui. svho was rather of a
horrors of tluit awful nigiit of October. l.il)nhuis turn, "Where are we then to
1S38. which, at this \ery spot, consigtu-d stop to-night .'" I was told, jocosely, that
to the •■ chambers of the deep" so many we were rapidly nearing rAiise-au-Gascon ;
7 rifles froDi My Portfolio.
II
that the hospitable roof oC Ji-. loiu's Acte-
son, Esq., J.F'., woulil soon shclti'r us.-
"Are thiMw tluwi, no lo^uho- liott;l.-> on
this coiinI V 1 fiiqiiiicil.
'•None, sir. 1 am vorrv to -aw 'I'r.u i Hers
have to depend on the nooii-w ill oi' tip in-
habitants tor I'ndd. '^roL', and slu Her; how-
ever, 30U are. I eonsidei," lie added,
" ratiier in liicU"s war, \ou w Ihj .ijqiear so
keen after loeal traditions — hu-al lii-iorw
and general inl'oiinalion. \ 011 will soon
ha\e an o[i|>ortnnit y of eonversinsj; with a
tlioroii^h-<:(oin,i,' ICns^h^linian — the lather of
a iniinerous t'auiiiy- -probably the sole sur-
vivor on this side ol' the Atlantic, of the
54 hniiian heiui^s who, in I'^^jS, eon ill-starred
ship." I wi- lire irdiii'^l V inlMuluced to
Squire Acteson. J. 1',, and though he ^ull'er-
ed at tlu' tune from a kick (;f a lior-c.
he turiu'd o;il so i:ominnnicati\e that, tea
beins dispatched. I asked hini for lull par-
ticulars of the si
lipwreck. and with hi.^
consent eominilled them ''n his jiresence to
papei'. as lollows ; —
IIII'. LOSS Ol- IIIF. ■■COI.HOKM-." \r MAKTRKl.
r riirsfl
tiiulit,
I've Sfcri a lliousaiul lioniil sli.i|i. ■■ Ituo! ot lii ni-
extremes
I >!' fever, and jiio^t lil^iiUul liiin:.' - l..n 1 i;aii:iiiil in
my ilrcains."
( rUr l\ ■)!, ■II- Si, !/• — //•':■. i.\
" The ' Coll-'oi lie' u a>. a hark of about :; v >
tons, owned by parlies in lluli. and ciin-
iiiaiuied by Captain Kent, an t \[h-i ienccd
seaman. She had sailed iVom l- pi-rm
(jil, spices. There w.is al.-o on iio.ird \-alu-
able silver plate i'.)r .Sir John Colboriie ;
I ornaments for R. C. churches, and a n;.iii-
ber of boxes of specie tor the hanks, each
box containinji about Ci.o'i.i. The cievv
consisted ot seventeen men, and some
thirtj-eijiht jiasseni^ers, .amongst whom 1
I remember Capt. James Elliott Hudson, of
I the British Aiiun, and lady, with live
I liaiighti-rs anil six sons; Mr. Win. Walker,
I of the Royal Na\ \ . h' other-in-law to Capt.
i Hudson ; Mr. W. .Scobell, of Hamilton,
i
I I'. C. ; .Mr. j. Seohell, f;f Devonshire, wile
I and six children, and also lour children of
ibis sisier, a De\(mshire widow; Capt.
I Hiicket. wile andchihl; Mr. Gilbert, father
j of a ])ersoii 01' that name in Hamilton;
"vlis. Wilson, wife of — ^Vilson, E'-ep. Ham-
jiiton: Mrs. Keast, mother • if Mr. H;nvkins,
I of Toronto; M". IJairows, of Devonshire.
j and Mr. George .Manly, ipletl with iu^t time to iuiiip on hoard, as we left the
boat-hooks for their liulc Ixidie--. And Londun docks. It i^ now lhirt\-three
fishetl Them ii|> i)etweeri tin' iiatcli;-.. I \ ears a'^o since 1 hearil his cries of desp.iir
coutii shed tears as if ihe whole thni:^; had atid manv a time have 1 woke in tny sleep
happened Inil vesterdaw I wa- voiinu; and liorr]fu>l. lancvini^ I hi'ard tiiesanie awful
active then, and an i 'm i-lli'iit -winimer: >cieanrs. At five o'clock next iuoriiin'4 our
five seamen and m\-clf had man.-e^iii to louij-hoat was towi-d by the natives into
ij;et in tlie joll <. -boat, which \\ :i~ am id^h ips ' ,\n -•-aii-fi iscou. Sotne of us were i(uite
and liad served as a root to protect --oiiu" ' iiisiiisihU- ; but the un rcniitl i iii^ attention
livestock deposited oi I'lc Ion t;'- boar. A siiowii toiisbv t!ie French and ICns^'lish
hui^je green billow -truck iier. and making ' (isbcmcn. in'ii-r some hour■^ hroughlus all
her turn o\er a -omer-.auU. i I'cll i;i \ si'lf round, 'fiic " Colbornc " drifted about,
sinking to a gi-eat d'-[)tli. At ihat inonii'iit i watcr-loggt-tl. from Moiulav nigiit to the
1 thought it was ail up: ! laiicied I could following Saturdav. when the numerous
see tnyriad- of itars hi^ii above -nv head, i boat-- wtnidi the news of iier shi])wreck had
shining Ihrou'/li the wa'a'r- — tiie most attiactcil. succeeded in towiiig her ashore
secret thoughts oi' !n\' wliole lite ei'o wded in I lari'ir.gton Covi.'. a mile ami three-
before m\- miml . a- it' 1 werelookinu in a qiuorers dl-.t ;uit tVom I'ort 1 )aniel 1 larbor.
ndrror. I'ossihl \- tie- siar- . -eri nr'^^'it ha\'e Some of the ci'cw were foum.l intherig-
lieen tile pliospnorn^ i.mu it ted h\' i he wa\ es | ging ^piite dead: some quite exhausted.
dLii-iiiLr the stor:n. n- riie wbide •-!.■. i -.ei'Uied | L':ipt. Ihnlson w.:is I'ished up with a b(jat-
on lire th:U ,i!v,''nt. ! _o-:uiuail v ro-e to tlie ! hook Irom the wreck, also two children
surface; my first tliou_;''.t w:i- to i-id mv- and .Mr. \V';dker;one s:iiloi-. the l)Oiiy of
selt'of my coat, iiut it w:f- tio i.i-.e tr\ing. 1 L':ipt. Kent and auotlier weie i)icked up
m;ide t'or tlie siup"> yard. :t^ --lie w;is on Iter • ;imongst the rigging — .all were l;d11\' notif C'lu'ter, Ivcp, where ti'.e inipiest was held,
when slu- c;ip-.i;^e:l, 1 g^•^ into i.jn.- long- < )|' the 5.] souls (.)n boiird, tiie second mate.
bo;it, wdu>.h was befsv -en tiie ma-t- in I'le- i.-i',du -.eiimen. two -ons of t.":ipt. Hudson,
water. :i.iid after cle.u'oi'^ iier tVom thenv,- :uul one steerage passenger were :i!one
ging, we trietl to re;icii the wi-eck to pick >,i\>-d. 1 am now 57 years of age and have
up soni'.' of the eresvor pa- -en ,'■:- : fmt, r.-ijed on tjie ta).i.-t e\er since. h;iving
Iniving lo.-t Llic ^)ar-. we ii;ul to ilrilt :it tin- m.irried ls^d)ella ChediU', the tiaughter ol"
mercy 01" tiie \\:i.ve-. \\'it'i .-ome iiM:irds 1 he m:in who re-cued me tiie nuiining a Iter
which wo found in iier, we rigged :i kind of . liie shipwreck.
:lfl->.iil by sitting with our b;icks to them ; ■ •• Several iiodus wire jnckeii up. It was
this kept tile boat.'s iie:id t.) the -e:i. Thus reported tliat the l)odv of Mrs. Iludson. on
we drit"teii aij'mt al! 'ught. wi.ich w.is whom was tbuiid ,t(>oo in biink bills, had
intcn-ely cold, ;uui two (/i' (.':i;it. llndsoifs heeri I'ouml. tlie same having dril'ted across
sons will) were on i)o:iid wouid likely h.ive tin- i;a\. :inii a number of vessels had been
peri-lied from cold, wet and e\h:uistion, -i-in picking up the goods flouting in the
h:id we not protei'ti'-d I h -m i)v sitting ilown . l'>ii\- aiul (iull'. 1 coiiLi mention to von
on thi;m. We ■vei'.' in t!ie neigiilxirliood man\' olhei- detai Is. but it is gi'tt ing bite."
oftlieship. and ewuld h^arall nigh' p;irti- It Vvas iuiieed. as .Sipiiie .\cteson well
cularly lou.i .ind meiancholv crie- on ob-erved, jetti iii; bite and I retired to mv
ho;irii : ihi- wa- .1 poweiful \o.ing sailor, :^K'epi ng-qmirter- fai iiiu' the bea(di, from
who never >-i .i-- ' ni'i.iriing until he sank which broke forth like a moiirntnl dirge,
pxhau.sted about morning, utteiing even | the ceaseless io:ir of the -ea; that rident-
from under the waves a loud scream tor I l..-s sea whose f )am like a shroud had
/ rijJcs from My Portfolio.
n
rlostd ovtT poor Capluin Kent ;uul Jiis
luckless p;isseiii;crs.
■' W'iMt wtTc thi' will! w.ivc.'. >,iyiiiy ?"
Ni'vL m()rnin<,' mv host ic. Id me rill aboiil
llie exlnioidiir.irv iiiipi-aniiK-e of 'he bav
aiul beacli. Nti-ewn witli Ilie valuable mer-
cliaiuiise ol r.lie straiuled sliip when she
broke up; silver plate put uji to auction,
and few bidilers; church ornaments of
tfreat value Used by the natives as wearing
appari 1 : costly wines ami silk liresses
knocked liown for a truie ; Tue boxes of
s|>f.'cieof .t;i.(xx) were saved. In spite ofthe
ellorts of the auctionver ami authorities
valuable lots disappear! ii'^' as if b\- magic.
Tlie $4oc).()CX) ol" the ••C'oli)orne " did in-
deed enrich manv wreckers and some that
were net wreckers.
C lAl'lKU \'.
NK\\' Poic r (ovi; — r.Mios — (,K \M) ki\i;k —
rrs Ku KKiT'i- (.1.1) liRrix.i — c.\ri; lovi-:
—CM' u'i:.si>i)iR— ciKiors i kansicjk-
M.\rioxs or .NAMi:s — siii.i. MomotiRi-
<)i:s Li:(;i;.vi)s.
The leadei- ha> no doubt. enj()\ed as
much as I did at !.he time, the .i,'rapi>ic des-
cription of flu; lo-s i)f the •• Colboiiie," as
It fell from ih.e iips t.if my iiospiiable host,
S(;uiri! Acteson : this Icti us at Anse-au-
(jascon, not \-ery far distant tVom Pointe-
au-Ma(|uereau, the western boundary of
t lie Countv ol" (iaspe. l'oi'ili;-au-M:ique-
reau marks the eniranci.' to the ISav lies
Chaleurs, the isl.ind
.\ii-c.n, distant
.. abtjut flit. 'en miles, hijin^ tlte bnumlarv ol'
M. the ba\', on the \^w 'Jrunswick si. the
road leaves the .-Imie. and passes tlirouijh
m the woods. 'I'liesi- Island.- .ue twu patches
% of rock where, w ._• were tokl. Captain
V* Philii) Dean, of J 'rs,-y. unci- had a fishiniV
stand. I'ointe-an-Maiiueii.'au is not visible
irom the rond. so iljat the tr.neller passes
the boundary between the two counties
without Ijcinn' aware of it. 'I'he land
tiiroip^h this porta-.;e is rockv and scarcely
fit for setllenii'iit.
•'The seii,niiory of I'abos joins that of
(irand River (to I lie east). Next cotnes
Great I'abos where a chartered English
company, untler the name ot the ' Ga.spd
Fishery and Coal .Minintf Company,' for-
inerly established their lieadciuarters, and
squandered the moneys entrustedto them
by the duped shareholders. I'nder the
French rule this appears to have been a
well-settled locality.
" On a small island, in the middle ol the
lagoon, traces could be lately seen of what
once constituted the foundations and cellar
of a Iar>,'e house, said to be that of the
(ioveriKM- or Intendant. The remains of
thre>' mill dams on the north side of the
river were also visible, and the various
articles founii from time to time prove that
a considerable number of families must
ha\e once occupied the tVoni.
'• l^abos is a bar harbor and very dilli-
cult of access. There are two rivers wliich
empty themselves into the lagoon, at a
short distance from each other. A large
portion of the iand in great I'abos is unfit
I for cuituie.
" Next to (ueat I'abos is Little I'abos
with a river of the same name, which was
bridgeti by tlie fjovernmcnt in 1S4.1. The
I'abos as well as (the next settlement of)
I (irand River, are the resorts of large (locks
i of wild towl in the spring and fall. The
I inhabitants are all sportsmen. The dis-
I tance I'rom I'abos to Grand River is about
: eight miles— from Newport to I'abos,
three."
I'abos the Great, seemed to me an ordi-
I nary French-Canadian parish, with a
respectable-looking chuii-li. .\ telegraph
otllce has recently been opened here, in
! tlie house of a Scotchman, bv name of
; .Vrchibald Kerr. l'"rom this house, on t!ie
heights, where I -topped I'or dinner. I
could notice a point behjvv wnere the sea
fowl (tile Monmriis, I fancied) seemed to
congregate and feed in countless numbers.
I was told that they never left the s]iol
from May till November, and slept at
night (jii the waters.
Grand River will be memorable to me
on account 01" its long and ricketty old
bridge. •• ll was built out of a loan from
the ' Municipal Loan l-'und," and is a stand-
ing monument of what local dissension
can do. Grand River was conceded, on
the jrst May, 1697, by Louis de Buade,
H
Trifles 'from My Portfolio.
Mr. RoiiO lluhort, cxteiuiini; ti>w:ir(ls Cjijh'
Hope, rK'sir tlie Ijihtiui of Plmci^.
" This Seii^niorv was purchased bv tho
laic Mr. Charlfs Robin from Mr. Duncan
Aiuierson on the ;Sl.h Juno, 179.V J'"^'
Ca|)e nientioin'cl in ilio concession as Cape
Hope is the L'a|>e Despair of our (ia\."'
'l"hc Ahbe I'crland, in his Journal, speaks
\erv hiyhlv ot'Cirand River, ncl; onlv as a
v.iluable lishin,:;' station, but as re>5ards its
soil anil as^ricu lural cajiabilities. lie also
slates ••thai i 1 cori-.e(|uence of the iui-
niense ciuantiiv of wild fowl resortintj to
this vicinity every sprini; and tall, all tlie
men are sportsmen; t\iat if shootins^ has
its deli.t^hts, it has aNo its dan^'ers, as
many hands are seen minus a finger 01
thumb; and that. l)v a remarkable coin-
cidence, accidents of thi^ kintl have uni-
versally happenid on a .Sabbath or otlur
liolv day.""
Tiie Messrs. Robin are .-.till iIil- owiw rs
of tlie soil. Wmv few ol' the settlers en
their estate have i>aid tor tlie land, and ihe
majoritv can only be \iewed in the lij^htof
tenants. The land is ^ood, l"''i' tiie m«-i
part level, and well-adapted for a'^ricnltur-
al purposes. Hut here, as alonj^ the whole
coast tVom New Richmond to Cap Chat,
ai;riciiiture is ;t mere secondary considera-
tion when comiKireil witii thelisheries. The
owners have, nevertheless, set the iniiabi-
tants a ijood c.\;imple, lia\inLra line tarm
\vhicn is well cultivated and \ields abun-
liant crops; next to Perce. every season li-hiiiL;' on this
establishment. . . IJesides ibis firm
there aie three oiher mcrcanlib' establish-
ments in (jrand River, namely Messrs. [.
(). Sirois, Thomas 'I'remblay. andThoinas
Carbeiy.
This, like all the ri\ irs on the coast, has
a bar which makes it i)oth ditricnlt ;ind
dangerous oi' kci..-- ii, iiuu ^•.^ .uhei-. .Small
schooners can enter the hartjor at high
water and remain in pertect security. 'I'he
population of the seigiiiorv anil township of
Grand River, which, by the last cen.sus ' ol
Count do Frontenac ('Governor ,, ami John I 1S61) wan. SyQsouJK, Ir rapidly increasing,
P>ocharl f [iitemianl), to Mr. James Cocbii, 'and a perceptible improvement has taken
of (irand River, — ccMiimi ncini; I'rom the 1 place in the ajipearance of the buildings
SeiL,'iiiorv of (ireat I'abos, bolonuin;; to j within the last few years.*
• The distance from (irand River to Cape
Co\'e, .1 large settlement, is ten miles, and
eiLjIlt fi-)in thence to I'ercd; it forms part
of the towiisbii> ol tint name, which ex-
tends about eighteen miles along the »ea-
cou-t.
•Tlie population of this settlement is
chietly J^-otc'-tant. the cluirch torming a
prominent object in the view. There is also
a large Roman Catholic cluirch at Cape
Despair to the west of Cape Cove.
Cape Cove, like Perjc, is an important
tishing station. 'J'here are three commer-
cial houses. >ressrs. De la Parrelle
lirothers, Tl.os. Savage, and Amice Payne,
("he two t'lrst-named tlrins are also ship-
owners, and all are njitives of Jersey.
There is eKcellent land and some good
tarms in the \ icinitv. Mr. Savage has an
extensive t'arin, and a very tine grist-mill,
whicli is 111 a hollow half a mile beyond
iiis barn. The mill is by far the best of its
kiiul in ihedistricl; but. unfortunately, the
siipplv of water is not suincient for such a
combination of machinery, which includeh
all the latest iniprovements.
Ca[)e Despair, which shelters the Cove to
the westward, is acomparati\ely low head-
land, and is said to have been originally
called <"(// ir/£.>(>/r. or Cape Hope. The
lugubrious changt of name ii reported to
have been caused by the total loss thereon
(it an Knglish man-of-war, or transport,
carrying troops, forming portion of Sir
llovenden Walker's squadron.'"!
Shortly alter the repulse before (jj^iebec.
in i''m)o, (;f .Sir William Phipps (whose e.v-
pedilion had cf)st the British £100.000),
the Karl ol' Sunderland, then .Secretary of
State, determined to make another attempt
to dislodge the French from their strong
])osiiioii at C^iebec. The armament in-
tended for this object, in 1707, was entrust-
ed to General Macartney; but the det"eat
of the allied forces at Alanianza compelled
(^ieen Anne to help her ally, Charleb III.
King 01 .Spain, and General Macartney,
'/'iv".« Gaffr Sf entry.
t ihi. lit).
Trijies from My Portfolio.
15
instead of sailing for Qjiieboc, was sent to | &c." The Minerve next gave this news as
Portugal. ilirect from St. Albans, as follows : " Tho
Four years after (171 1) General Xichol- Protestant Bi^hop of this city shot his
son, a i)rovincial oflu-er, who had just wife and liimsclf. He was killed, and
taken possession of Nova -Scotia, having his wife is not expected to recover." And
suggested the plan of the campaign, live the Daily Nev-'s hrouglil up tiu- rear with
thousaiul troops from England and 1 wo the curious version that "a murder and
thousand Provincials were jilaced under
the command of General Hill, brother to
the Q^ieen's favorite, Mrs. M:isii;iiii. tiie
naval ibrce being commanded by Admiral
suicide took place yesterday at St. Albans.
In u fit of jealousy, a man kiUed himself
and afterwards killed hi- wife."
I.egendary as well as antiquarian lore
Walker ; a dash was made for old C^iebec : surrounds th..- hoary and frowning Cape
the great disaster which lietell, was caused with a ma/e of romance,
chielly by fog on the jjnd August, 1711. (.^lecn .\nn sent in 1711, as aforesaid, a
Let us say a word of this famous spot : — powerful lleet, witli seven or eight thou-
Our readers are, no doubt, aware that tl is sm,,! troops, to kill off forever French
stormy cape has fiuMiished footl for mar •■ power in Canada. /V most violent storm
antiquarian disciuisitions. On some old arose, disjjersed the Armatia, and eight of
maps it is nuuked as Cape Hope. .V/'V — on tne vessels were lost, with every soul on
more recent ones as Cape Desj^air. It cer- board, in the Ciulf of St. Lawrence, chietlv
tainly turned out as sucli to Aduiiral on Egg Lshjmi. It is supposed that the
Hovenclen Walker's distracted tleet. in 171 1, fragments of the wi-eck. generally Known
The English Armada, which that yeai" was ;is the \ted that they belonged to a by-gone
savs
age. C)n her bow is seen tiie tall figure of
one who-e mien and dress denote that he
is a superior olhcer. One toot resting on
The French-Canadian papers made bad
work of the late Bishop tragedy in St.
Albans. Finding the announcement in ' the bowsprit, in an attitude as though he
English that "John Bishop, of St. Albans, j were preiiared to spring ashore, with his
in a fit of jealousy, shot his wife and him- '■ right hand Ik; appears to point out the dark
helf," one of the French papers translated cape to the helnrsman, whilst on his left
it lor its own cohunns as follows : " ycd/i arm be supports a female figure clad in
Evcijue, de St. Allurtis, (inns iiii acces f/r white ll<->wing robes. With wild and light-
falousie. a iiie sti fcinine .'" The Franco- j ning sjieed the doomed bark rushes to des-
Canadien took this up, and as it would trnction, as though urged o\\ by some in-
nevei d(j to have it supposed for an instant I visible and supernatur.-d ageney. One
that a bishop of the Chun'h of Rome was ! might\' i-rash— a wild cry of despair in
married, made all plain by making it reail.
"The Protestant Bishop of St. Albans, a woman- and :ill is over. The phantom
which is plaiiil\- distinguished the \-oice of
i6
Trifles from My Portfolio.
ship with her liviny freight; has disiippcar-
cil benciitii tlic roaring surge."'
CMAPTIiK' VI.
rm: i-.\Rr.v iiisioKV oi' immjck — riiE uock
\> vri;wi.ii i;v naimk m.ists — r\vo
uiv\L KKi'ur.i.ics — \vH\r M.w i.i;,\i)
ro \v,\i<.
A Nhort drive over lolerable road^- aiul
rutiier dangerous bridges hrougiit nie iVoni
L'ai)e Cove to Perce — the shire town, or
chi/'licu, of the (jaspc district.
This is a verv onavenlure Island,
which chai)el was called .Saiute Claire.
To the two first missionaries succeeded, in
1675, l''atiier Chretien Le Clerccp who
I wrote on Can.'ula two works now \erv
scarce : ''/. destroy the
French settlements in America, and to
I
; attempt to seize on Canada. Peice w;is
■ attacked without a moment's warning.
I'atlier jumeau relates as t'ollrnvs this i:-])!-
J sod'.' ot tile war, which t(n)k jilace in
: .\ugusi. 1690 : — .
I '"Two British men-(jl'-war appeared
under French colors in the ro.idstead of
j Honaventure Island, and by this stratagem
I easily captured tive lishing-vi'ssels, whose
I captains \\\\i\ crews, entirelv engaged with
the tisherw had to make lor (.Jj^iebec, not
I being able to ilefend their shii)s. 'l"he
' enenj\' landed .... pillaged, sackeil
j and burnt the liousjs of the inhabitants —
i some eight or leu families, who, for the
; most part, had already taken reluge in tlie
woods .... I am seized with horror
at the bar^' nuMuory of the impiety
which ihosc miscreants committed in our
I churcli. whiili ihe^' had converted into a
■ guard- hoii^e. Tlie\' broke and trampled
i under Iret oui images. 'flu; paintings
j rcjiresi'ii I i iig the llolv \'iru;ii) and St.
I Peter we'e both pi.-rci'd iiv mori- than one
hundrett and tillv ■j;un shots ....
1 Not a cross escaped their fury, with the
! exception ol the one 1 Iku! toriiierl_\' planted
on Rolland's 'liable, which, from its height
on a iiearl\' in.accessi'nle mountain, still
subsists as a moMUinent ot our Chris-
tianity .... Tiiev set lire to the
foui' corni'is of our cliurch, which was
soon consumed, as \vell as the church ol
our BoiKiventure Island Mission."
The historian, l'V>rland, to whom I am
indebted for these interesting details,
draws a liveU sketch ^d' the death-liki'
Trijles from My Portfolio.
'7
iitillTresc which pervade* the ccttlcment
tluring the lonely winter months, and the
awakening buhtle, stir, luui cheerCiilni'ss
which the return of the hhips brings with
it in May- A poet's fancy miglit. indeed,
revel in the sight, and lind thennn a con-
genial theme.
"At peep of il.iy you see the shore swarm-
ing with .stalwart Jersey latis, in their bine
smocks, or shirts, worn over their ])ants,
busy launching their liglit barges ibr a
long and sometimes a dangerous day's
cruise; in a minute or two the sunlit
ocean seems all studded with wiiite speeks ,
— a whole Heet of swilt fishing-sniacks, with
their white sails filling to the last breath
of the hind breeze, like a tlork of \ernal
birds winging their flight o\er the glad
waters towards some fairvland in the blue
distance — the return of the venturesome
crew from the dreaded Orphan's Hank* —
some three or lour hundred, with the last
of the sea breeze, at eventide, each pro-
claiming his success witii boisterous mii'th,
loud shouts, love ditties watted — thev
would wisii — t(i that bright isle, their
native land, their Eden, tar in the East,
where more than one 'black-exed .Susun'
sighs for their return, they liope."
IJut enough for Perce; as may be ob- '
served, it has its lights and shades. !
Let ns again translate t>om our old
iViend's Journal — the Abbe I'eriaud. Here
is one ol' his delightt'ul chromos of Percd
Rock and its airy inhabitants — the gulls '
and cormorants. More than once have I
my sell watched these curious proceed-
ings:—
•• From the windows of the priest's resi-
dence one can see distinctly the green
plateau of Perce Rock. It is streweil with
conspicuous objects, which at times seem
to move, at others are stationary — the
winged denizens of this retreat; some are
busy hatching their eggs, whilst others are
on guard to protect tiie lunvly-born vonng.
This airy city is divided into two wariis : one
isoccupied by the Gulls (the Herring Gull),
and the other by the Cormorants. If anv
member of one tribe presumes to wander
beyond the boundary of those ot his feather,
such an encroachment is not silentlv borne
A formidable outcry, formed of one thou-
sand voices, pervades the air, and is heani
some times at a distance of several miles. .
A cloud like a heavy storm of snow hovers
over the spot tainted by the i^resence of the
Istranget. If the invaders should be in
j numhers, a column detaches itselffrom the
• innumerable inhabitants ot the threatened
territory, iind describing a half circle
: rushes to attack the rear of the enemy. As
the defenders of the country are always
formidable and fierce on their native soil'
• the strangers have to withdraw and shrink
' from the blows and maledictions of their
' ailversaries."
This border warfare causes frequent en-
counteis; scarcely a quarter of an hour
elapses w'thout one's being aware from
the loud I ries that Discorti has let fly her
shafts.
The two republics, whose territory com-
bined covers about two acres in superficies,
• were olyore protected by the steepness of
tlie rock 'awkX lived soiiire far from the reach
ol' man.
The paternal ne-t was bequeathed from
one generation to the next. The Gulls and
Cormorants educated their chiKiren at the
identical spot where ilicy tlu-tnselves had
sprung from the shell into this wicked world.
This workl. however, was imdergoin"'
changes. It >vas, 'tis true, alwavs above
the same sky: around the same sea, roar-
ing and lashing the solid foundations of
their citadel, and covering with the foam
of its mountainous waves the beaches of
the twf) adjoining coves. I5ut. close bv, a
few luindreii vards away, the world was
not the saine. The forest was cut down;
smoke rose over roofs inhabited by the
white man; the shore had ceased "to be
solitary; the surf bore on its crest, vessels
witli white sails and long masts. The
republic was in danger; her fi'-heries were
invaded by barbarians, who, on more occa-
sions than one, had shed the blood of the
ancient denizens of the rock. After all. if
it did become prudent to go and catch fish
at a greater distance, cormorants and gulls
could equally eat it in safety from the in-
accessible summit of their habitation.
Fallacious hope ! — for gulls no more than
for men. Nothing on earth exists free from
change. About the year 1S05, some thou-
sand of years after the establishment here
of the descendant of the first gull, two fool-
hardy fishermen resolved to scale the fort-
ress which so far had been considered im-
• The Orphan's liaiiK, wincii is lai out at soa, is
not visited l>y all. A violent wind iVnin tin: lain! may
blow nut the hoats to sea. Tlii' fate nl niaiiy in llic
past— ■ watery g-ave— niunt tje tlie itsuit. llenre the
name.
pregnable. • • • A single point seemed
to offer a chance of success. \ear one of
the archt's. about forty feet above the base,
the rock forms a point, and underneath the
ascent seetris more practicable. But the
fearless fishermen chose another through
braviido; it might have scared a chamois.
With oars lied together, and leaning on
the surface of the rock, they managed to
climb the most steep portion of the rock,
and then by hanging on to projections and
shrubs, they actually got to the top.
It was indeed a glorious feat, this ascent
of the rock by Dtiguay and Moriarty— for
iS
TriJUt from My PortfoUo.
the first time. It is true tlien- was a vaj^i.e
tradition that on certain occa.sion^ a youth
ot' horiiilt-an proportions and pp'ternatur-
al ajipearauce had bt.-en seen on the top;
but these supe'rhtitious tales merely served
to exhibit in uiort! vivid colors the ven-
turesome sjjiril of tiie mortals who iiad
dared to brave tin; genius of I'erce Rock,
and beard him in his inaccessible den.
The leat sii^.i^ested to these two men by
the love of distinction, was prompted in
others by motivi^s of 'nlerest :uui the rage
of imitatio.i ; once the i)ath was kno\. n. one
half of tlic ditliculties disappeared. Each
^e.ir llieeLjysund young birds were robbed.
At first tlie presence of man dislii.bed the
. old birds so iiule that they often remained
on the nest until removed. Fortunately
a bv-la.v of the matfistrates ot Perc(*. pro-
hibiting' these [>ractices. has restored the
peaceable inlialiitants of the Rock to their
hearths and iioines. The loud cries of
these birds, heard from alar, have more
than once been of ureat help to boats or
ships cauj.'ht in the fog near Perce; they
were cxccUent fog-whislles and beacons
to tiie benighted marine-.
Chapter VII.
PERCIC— THE PHKCE ROCK— MOUNT JOLI —
liONAVENTURE ISLAND— CAPTAIN Di;-
VAL — THE CEJ,I::BKATED PRIVATEER
" VLLTURE."
'•The Village of Pt^rcd, which derives its
name fiom the Rock, is most advantageous-
ly tiuiated for the cod fishery. It consists
ct' two small coves, called North and South
Beacli. TliP principal part of the population
reside at North Beach, which also contains
the co'jri-liouse, jail, and Roman Catholic
church, bouth Beach is chiefly occupied
by the important fishing establishment of
Messrs Charles Robin & Co., who own
the principal parlo: 11. e land on that side.
The two coves are separated by a headland
called Mont Joli, supposed by some to
have been once united with the Rock. On
this promontory formerly stood the Pro-
testant Episcopal church, and the grave-
yaid still mark.-, the spot. Tne population
of Percd does not exceed live hundred
souls. excei)t during the summer months,
when It I- more than doubled. It is the
shire town of the County of Gasp^.
" Few spots, if any, on the sea-board of
Canada possesses 'greater attraction for the
artist iiiii iovir ol wild ami romantic
scenery than Peic6 and its environs.
Mont Ste. Anno, m rear of the village, rising
I almost abruptly to the height of 1300 feet,
I ih, the liist land sighted by all vessels
coming .ip the Gulf to the southward of
the Island of Anticosti. In clear weather
if may be seen at a distance of sixty to
'seventy miles, and it is even confidently
' asserted by shipmasters worthy of credit,
I that it has been seen by them at a distance
of seventy-five to eiglitv miles.
"If you a. cend the highroad towards
the f^ettlement called ' French Town,' and
stand on the rising ground in rear of
Bellevue, you have beneath you, and all
around, one of the most magnificent pano-
ramas the eye can wish to rest upon. Ste.
Anne rising in all its towering majesty on
your left, and extending to the eastward,
lorms within Barry Head a portion of an
amphitheatre, almost enclosing the village
on two sides. The Roman Catholic church
is a striking object at the foot of Barry
Head. Over and beyond this, at a distance
of six miles, is seen Point St. Peter and
I Plateau. To the right of this, nothing is
I seen but the sea as far as the eye can reach.
'- Then comes the Rock, which you overlook
I from this point. The birds (gulls and
cormorants) on its summit can also be
distinctly seen."
A romantic legend, alluded to by the
j Abb^ Ferland, attaches to the Percd Rock
I I have myself seen the snow-white gulls
j resting on their nests on this green summit
I in July. You might have imagined the
froth of the sea or gigantic snow-flakes
spread amidst verdant pastures — a most
attractive spectacle to the eye of a naturalist.
" The Island of Bonaventure then forms
the foreground. But to the westward of that
again the sea meets the eye, until it rests on
Cape Despair, and you get a bird's-eye view
of Cape Cove and L'Anse aBeau Fils. From
this point you have a most extensive sea
view down the Gulf and to the entrance of
the Bay of Chaleurs, the light on the
Island of Miscou, New Brunswick, distant
about thirty-two miles, being often seen on
a clear night.
" Leaving thosi.' lower regions, if you
undertake to ascend Mont .Ste. Anne — no
' very di'ficult task tor those who are free
( fro'n gout and asthma — a view presents it-
I self to the astonished eye, grand beyond
i dcscri])lion. All that we have just de«-
7 rifles from My Portfolio.
'•
eribed lies in one vn»t panorama at our
feet. In rear, ttiat is. frfun west to north,
the variegated green f)f the primeval forest
met;ts the eye, which seeks in vain some
oasiK. as it were, in tlie boundless green
pipnnst^ on wliich to rest. 1 lill .-ind liule,
monntain and valley, all v\:\<\ in the same
verdant garb, extend as tar as the luiinar.
ken can ratige. Casting voureye gradually
eastward, you see ovei- thi; land into the
Gaspd Bay. ami buyond Ship Heacl into
the month oi' tli' St. Lawrence; then, far
away to seaward, down the Gulf; to the
right, up the Bay of Chaleurs. If the
weather is clear, besides a number of large
vessels, the white sails of a lleet of
schooner.s, chicilv American, of from 40
fo 150 tons, and anionnling sometimes to
some two or three hundred sail, may he
seen engaged in the cod and mackerel
fisheries. From this point nothing ob-
structs the view, which extends over Bona-
venture Istaml and all the headlands on
either side, and on a fine calm day two
hundred open boats, spread .over the
bosom of the treaclierous deep, look like
.small specks upon the surface of a mirror.
Taken as a whole, we know of no scenery
in the British Provinces to equal thib.
"The drive or walk round the mountain
to the corner of the beach is most romari-
tic, as well as the sail round tlie r-l.md of
Bonaventure, and should on no .nccount
be omitted by tlir excur»ioni>t. The road
through the mountain goig>;, wl.ich is tlip
highway connecting Perce with Gaspd
Basin, must have some resemblance to
many portions of Swiss scenery.
" Percd possesses two places of worship.
That of the Church of England is situated
on an eminence at the foot 01 the mountain
on the Irish Town road. It is built in the
Gothic style, and though very small, bi-ing
only capable of containing one hundred
persons, yet it is t)ne of the neatest and
most complete village cluuches we have
Been on this continent. The Protestant
community arc mainly indebted to .Me.-srs.
Charles Robin 5: Co. for its erection.
The Roman Catholic Church is a large
building, and when the inteiior i» finished
off it will be a very handsome structure.
" Percd is strictly a large lisliing-stand
— tfas best in Canada — and it is here that
the Messrs. Robin have their most exten-
sive fi..hing establishment. We believe
we are justilV'tl in stating that there is no-
thing to equal it, as ;i whole, in Canada.
New Brunswick, or Nova .Scotia. Thin
establi-hment collects yearly from 14. 000
to 15 O'jT qu'nials of codfish, tit for ship-
nifiit. including wiiat they receive Iron
tlu'M pianler^ uitl dealers throughout the
tnvs n-.liip of Percd.
'• I'.rcc' was for ~ome time the risi lencc
of Lieut-Governor Cox, who was ap-
pointed Governor of Gaspf* al>'>ut 17S1;.
Tlui" site ol' the Government House mav
still 1)0 seen." — Pve's Gafpe Scenery.
The fori'L'ong is certainly a glowing,
and. ';> far as I know, a truthful picture of
Pi-rcc with I he exception as to u hat relates
to the date ol' a()pointment of L'cut.-Gov.
Cox. According to Colonel Caldwell's
letter* to General James Murray, bearing
date 15th June, 1776, Major Cox, formerly
of the 47th, was at that time Lieut. -Gov.
of Gaspc.
Pcrc^. nol withstanding its picturesque
scenery, never 1 ad for rne one-half of the
attrac'ions of G. >p^ Basin. It must, how-
ever, have had some nttractions, even in
an.'.ient days, siiic^ Morrseigneur St. Vjii-
licr, who f t >pp!:u tlicre on hi^ vovagc frorn
France to Ojehcc in 1685. wis induced to
revisit if in t'se spring of t6S'S. One is
q'lii'^snfe in considering it a lari,'e fi^iiing-
stand — in •'act the grandest on tlie coast —
the king'.iom of cod. herring, and train oil
— the Elysium of fishermen. During the
busy mos'ths. coJfish in everv shape, in
every stage of preservation or pu'.ref.iction,
scents the air — e^fjecially in Auijust. The
pebbly beach is strewn and begemmed with
codli>h drying, the tl.ikes glisten with it in
the tnornipg sun, whiNt underneath ple-
tlioric- maggots attain a wonderful size.
The shore is stud. led wilii fi^h heiul" rnd
li-ii otTal in a lively -tate of decomposition.
Cod heaiis and canlin are liberally used
to inanure tlie potato fields; the air is
* Tliis Old lettu., published in 1S66, tinder tiie aus-
pices ot' t!iL' " Liti^rr.ry and Historic:ii Socii.'ly of
Quebec''— p.i<;rf 10— coiit.iins the fol lowing passage ; —
" On my w:iy I pa-.sed hy the pic'iet drawn itp
ui'.der the Field Officer of that day, who was Major
Cox, torineily of tho4Tth, and now I.,ieut.-Goveruor
of Vrasps."
30
Trijles from My Portfolio.
tainted with the efnuvia, the land breeze
wafti you odorM which are not those of
" Arnby the Blest." The houses in some
localities have a fishy JiUicll. The churcheN
are not proof ugiiinst it. Not nianv years
back, the R. C. IJisliop, vibitint; the chapel
on a fishini^ station, on enterinij, exclainit;(J
to the pastor, " Is the chapel used to dry
and cure oodtisli.-' The stnell here is posi-
tively iireaiiful I" " No, my lord." the pas-
tor replied; "hut at the news of your
approach my parishionerb had the floor
carefully washed with soap. Unfor-
tunately, the soap was made from fish oil."
The historian Ferland relates the anecdote.
Even potatoes chime in with the ^enera!
honiaife to the llniiy tribe ; some have been
known to j^row with botiet. in them. A
lady frieiui of mine m;ide tliis her princi-
pal grievance against Percii. Slie left it in
high dudgeon. She was a juilge's lady.
I have often wondered why she did not
apply to the Court for an iniiinciion
against this intolerable nuisance.
The sialest place to be out of the reach ot
the fishy aroma Is Dut at sea. But thou.ifli
there be fish everywhere — in the .^ea — on
the land— in the air — vou may feel like itie
Ancient Marinei,
" W.itcr, water, every wlu-re, nor .my ilroj, to druiU."
It wa.s my ill-iurtunc once to see liah
everywhere, and still iione to eat.
My landlad}- met my repeated caipiiry
for fre.-.li iisii tor dinner, with st to get Iresli codiish
for dinner at Perce.
It is, notwithstandinsf, a iieallliy loca-
tion ; strong smells, though tiiev may i)res>,
hard on the olfactory nerves, don't kill.
The citizen* of Petrolia, 'tis said, are long
livers.
Hon. John LeBoutillicr, M. S, C, and
Mr. Frs. LeBrurr tiuve itninense t'isher\-
establishments here. Hon. y. LeBoutillier
resides at Gaspe Basin.
Perc6 ha.«; laterlv been sclccred in prefer-
ence to Ga»pe Basin a* the ^hire-town
(^Che.f-lieH). .\ new court-houKC and jail
are m process of erection, and the mo»t
pro>y highwJi/tnan or debased murd«r«r
I once duly convicted, will enjoy the pri-
( vilege of being duly hanged in view of
I all the magnificent scenery just mentioned
; by Mr. Pye. I am sorry for it, on account
j of the geniul and educated sheriti of the
I liistrict, whose acquaintance I had not tKe
' good fortune to make.
I D(»\A\ EN niKh. ISL.\ND.
"Till* island, in the depth of winter,.
has the appearance of a vast iceberg, and'
like the Rock, is one of Nature's wonderful
productions, torining a natural break-water-
between the South Cove, Perc^ and the
! Gulf. The whole is one vast mass of red-
! ilish conglomerate, trcjin which the term
Bonaventure Formation has been derived.
j It appears as though it had been uphove
I from the bottom of the ocean, forming on
I tlie seaside, towards the Gulf, a stupen-
I dous wall 3cxi to 500 feet high, with no less
' than fitly t'athonis of water at its base. It.
, slopes gradually towards the mainland,
I and is well settled, there being a R. C.
j church, school-house, and some twenty
I dwelling-houses. It is two and a haW
J ifiilt-o long, atid three-quarters of a mile
bread, and is distant two and a half tniles
I (rom the mainland. The depth of
water is siiHicient for the largest ships
! alloattobeaf through the channel. Messrs.
I LeBoutillier Brothers have a large fishery
! establishment on tiie island, at which
i thirty-ei^ht boats and :ihout lio men are
einploN'ed. This was once the property
! of the late Captain Peter Duval, a native
of tlie ishmd of Jersey, and one whose
deeiis and prowess would not disgrace the
annals ot England's history. Yet, strange
to s;i.-, there appears to be no record pre-
served by the family ot a feat scarcely to
be surpassed. The grandson of our hero,
who still resides on the island, knows
nothing of the leading tacts, which are as
follows : —
• TowanU the close of the last war
between Kn 'land and France. Captain
Duval commanded a privateer, lugger-rig-
ged, mounting I'our guns, with a crew of
tweiily-scven hand*, himself included, and
owned by the M..>«sr."i. Janvrin, of Jersey.
She wa* a small vessel, under loo tons.
And appropriately named the 'Vulture,'
having bii«n th« l«rror of th« Fr«ncb coast
or iHK PAM' -UlCLLE ANkE — UOUCil-Ai-
ruwN i'uig Scvmry.
continually lioveiin.,' along the cosist, |
cnptiirini vessel alter vessel. Tlie port of | Ch.xptbk VIII.
Bayonne luid KutVered severely f'nip. the'
continued depr.datious .f the [ersev pr>y- ^^^^^ ". FETiCKS-THK moht of other
»teer offits entrance, and the n;.MvhaMt> of ^'^V. TH« ikke I'KK^.suiLtt mcmokies
the place resolved to make an etVoi-t to cap-
ture their tormiMilor. A joint stuLkcompanv
WAS formed, nnd a M.itable vo.el obtained. a*'" '1"' i-KtitNO».
a brig of about t8o ton*, which being The pichMiihlt- mode of travel from
mourned with sixteen gun*, and manned ; Perce to Ga«>pii Uakin is ilecidedly by water
by acrewof eighty men. awaited tlic return ' in liummer — the l.ind route being of a
of the ' Vulture.' Thar vessel having been ; peculiarly primitive order, trying alike to
»een olf the port one tine 'itieriioon. the , man and beast. On leaving the great
brig slipped out during the night, disguis- j shire-town, the highway winds round the
ed as much as jxjstible, so a.'* to be tuken I hills in rear of the Ste. Anne range — adis-
(or a mt-rciiant-vessel, and being sighted ' tiince of several miles— until you reach a
early on the tollowing morning by the i sand bank, .vhich divides the sea from the
lugger's look-out. the latter iinniedialely ' lagoon. It is called the corner of the
gave chase and soon came up with what j beach ; vittiro, •• Corny Deuch."
nhe supposed would be an e;isy prize. The j Thescenery through the UKJuntain gorge
reader, however, may conceive her aston- j is truly grand, and the contemplation of
ishment when, on running alongside of j it» beauties will more than compensate the
the brig, the ports were opened and every | tourist for the dilFiculties of the road,
preparation m;ule for action. On seeing I About n mile from the higi^iest point, you
this the fu-ot, lieutenant of ihe • N'ulture,' ; iia.s immediately by the base of a ^tupen-
Captain LeKeuvre, told C.iptam Duval i dous wall of conglomerate, which jippears
that having no chanc-e against such pe-fect ' as though it had been upliove by another
odds, their only alteru.'itive was to strike. Atlas. There an; indications all round
' Strike !' he exclaimed with an oath. ' So ! Perce that, at home distant period, the
long as I have a leg to stand on we shall , mountains havi- i)eea rent, and vast masses
fight. If T am knocked off my pins, yon dislodged from their original position bv
take command, ami do as* vou please.' ^omc violent convui*ion of nature.
The vessels iinniftiiaUdy engaged, the | A few miles out of Perce the country ns-
' Vulture ' keeping so close to lier aiitago- sumes a level appearance. The mountain
ni&t that the shrjt from the latter could ranges giadualiy disappear from the back-
not take elToct owing to her great length, grrnuni Tiie roads in the
Meantime the lugger conliniiod to pour i Township of P^■•rce are decidedly the
into the brig a well-direcJ.''d fire of' grape- '. worst in the County of Gasp4, and most
shot, cutting her rigging and killing and of the bridges are in a very dangerous
wounding half of the French crew. The state, being without railings or guard of
captain of the brig, knowing the determin- ; any kind to prevent 'he traveller from
td characterof hisopponerit. and expecting i being precipitated into the abyss below,
that he would attemiit to board, made for The bay, at Mai Bay. is a splendid sheet
Bayonne. The lugger gave chase, but night , of water, bounded tiv Perce on the one
coming on, the brig reached port in satety. side, and Point .St. Peter on the
Of the lugger's crew, only one was killed i other liefore reaching it.
and twoof them slightly wounded ; Captain I one ha« to cross the Mai B.iv stream — a
Duval stating that with ten hands he would ; good river for salmon and trout-fishery —
have taken the brig by boarding, but he { by means of a scow.
feared to attempt it against such fearful i At Belle Anse, in Mai Bay, the high
M
Trifltx from My PortfoHn.
Toiid lc«di to the portage «t riffht «nglf-i.
bmnrhinfi; off to Point St. Peter ofn the
right and towards Dou^^lastown on the lirtt.
The same drizzlv wcaiher followed iiic
through this Avcrnian ii»emie, called the
Portage — a dismal drive during the siletit
hoiirti of niijht.
Reluctiintly li.id I to fiiri':,'o the sweet,
though at titiies iin'laiioholv satisfaction,
of leviKJting old and f;iini!i,ir places:
Point St. Peter and its iujspjtnhlc liotm-s.
The irre[)reNNihle inemories oi' otiR-r (I:un
•till persisted in enshrininij it in a bright
halo. Right w.'ll can I recall Point St.
Peter; its pebbly beaches, its Kyminelric
long rows of boats, at anchor, ;it night-
fall, in a straight line — in viewed each li>h-
ing-stalion — all dancing nierrilv on t!ie
crest of the curling billows, its fearlfss.
«ong-loving, blne-sliirted (ishermen. Can
I ever forget iu storm-laslu-d rr^f: its
crumbling cliffs; its dark ca\cs. in.ide
vocal at each easterly blow with the wild
discord of the sea.' Plateau, its foam-
crowned ledges, surrounded by noisv sea
'fowl! Where now the leading men of
Point St. Peter I knew of yore.' Where
the Johnstons, Creiglitons, Packwoods,
Collas, Alexanders of thirty years ago.'
Gone, one and all, or nearly so, to their
long home. Some reposing in vonder
churchyard on thi"- brow of the hill in rear;
others, placed by loving hands, in their
marble tombs under the shade of their own
fairy island of Jersey, sleeping the long
sleep. Of sotne scarcely a trace left
amongst men ; of others, stalwart sons
worthily perpetuating the names of their
respected sire.s. Possibly some yet for-
gotten behind on this green earth of ours
— a few, a very few.
Point St. Peter brought back vividly to
my mind a most harrowing memory of my
youth — fheuntimel-, death, under peculiar-
ly painful circumstances, of an early friend ;
it reads thus in my diary :
It was the hour of noon on a dreamv
August day. A loving father was detail
ing to me. his friend and guest, long-pon-
dered domestic arrangements, cherished
hopes, cai-el"ully laid-out plans of family
ailvancement. One above others, in the
happj family group, he seemed to m^ to
doat on — though it was not expressed — a
I bright hoy of eleven «ummer», venturesome
i full of spirit and intelligence, my daily
companion in the boat or with the gun.
though b\' several vears mv junior. Of
the five blooming children who then lighted
up his home, on this one seemed to centre
\ all the hopts of the fond parent.
The light-hearted youth, humming a
I song, shot past me — whiNt I remained con-
' versing with his t'ather— on his way to our
, ol't-freiiuenteii fishing-ground, near the
wharf, beckoning to me not to delay; but I
[dill ilelay. I tairii-d as I was \;oiU. listen-
ing to the frank iliscourse of his excellent,
true-hearted father. I tarried behind.
Alas! why had I not lollowed on. An
hour later and I wis re-entering the por-
tals of this once happy home, helping to
carry a stifTcned. Ii\-id corpse — that of my
late companion.
I had myself discovered him — dead,
quite dead, reclining on his side — softly
sleeping beneath the transparent waves,
at the spot where he and I had so often en-
joyed our favorite pastime of angling for
cod and halibut. A trusty servant and
mvsell. in silence, laid on a little bed, in
lull view of the horror-stricken but not un-
submissive father, all that now remained
I of so much bright promise, youth and
' hope. All this did happen at this very
spot. The sorrowing father was the late
' Henry Bissett Johnston, a highly educat-
i ed Scotchman. I can recall it all as a
' scene of yesterday, though it occurred close
: on thirty years ago ; but let us hie away.
I The portage ro.id from Mai Bay toDoug-
I lastown, on a murky September night, re-
minds one of the Cimmerian gloom with
which Virgil surrounds the abodi'sof souls
in Hades. If you are of an enquiring turn
of mind, kind reader, gifted with a robust
constitution, unappalled by jolting, it will
be worth your while to go and see for your-
self. At midway a dark bridge spans a
I brawling brook still darker in aspect.
' White foam floats about the black pool at
i vour feet, at the sight of which your horse
I snorts and draws back. More than one
goblin story is told of this dreary spot. On
' my asking tny companion whether he could
'discover the bridge through th« gloom
j which the shadows of the tall surrounding
'trees deepened into absolute darkness, —
Trifles from My Portfolio.
*i
" No," Raid he, " but [ can lionr the roar I
of the brook, and my hortif know^ tli'> »\:iy. j
though hoTHes have been more .han once |
scnreil by some awhil scrL•:uTl^ ht n- at nii^h', |
I can assure you." said he.
'• You have," 1 replied, " been tiie mail- |
carrier for some time, have you not?
Have you ever heard these noises.'"
"Never," said he, '* but my uncle's horse
did, Bome years ago. A murder, tis related,
occurred at this bridge many years ago;
and you know." he added, with emphasis,
" horses at night can see things which are
hidilen froin men.
" I cannot," I replied. • charge my me-
mory with an instance of the kind hap-
pening tome during my travels ;"8oI found
that Superstition could assert her sway at
the Douglastown Portage as well as on
Hounslow Heath, near London — wherever
a deed of blood dwells m the memory of
man.
Chapter IX.
THE MAGDALEN ISLAND GROUP— ADMIRAL
ISAAC COFFIN — DEAD.MAN's ISLAND —
TO.M MOORE, THE IRISH POET.
The voyage to the Magdalen Islands is
performed in a sailing packet which leaves
Gaspd Basin the 5th, and Pictou the 25th
of each month. This singular group of
islands — thirteen in number — lie at tlie
entrance of the Gulf. The chief ones are :
Amherst, Entry, Grindstone, Alright,
Coffin's, Grosse Isle, Bryon, Deadman's,
and the Bird Rocks.
Amherst is called afler the distinguished
General Amherst, who, in 1759, took such
an active part in dislodging the French
from their colonial possessions. It is
about eleven miles in length and four in
breadth, contains excellent soil, and from
its shores a most extensive cod. herring,
«eal, and mackerel fishery is carried on.
The island is annually visited by hundreds
of English, French, and American fishing
vessels. The harbor, which is entered
from Pleasant Bay, iscapableof containing
»everal hundred vessels (drawing not over
twelv; feet of water), and aftbrds shelter
from all winds. In the back-ground is
»een the long sand beucij, which divides
Plt»a«aat Bay from the wutor« of the Gulf,
and extend* to Sindy Hook Channel,
which forms the rntrnnca to Pleix^nnt
Bay. .Vmi»t'r-t is a port ot entry and a
warehousing port. It is sixty miles direct
from Capi.' North, in Cape Breton, one
hundred ancJ tiuv miles from Gaspd, in
Ivosver Canada, one hundred and twentv
mi It's from Cape! Ray, Newfoundland, and
fifty miles from the e:i-t jtoint of Prince
Edward Island.
They were granted in 1798 to Captain
(afterwards Sir Isaac) Cofiin. It is said he
became possessed of them in the following
manner: He was conveying out in his
frigate the Governor-General of Canada.
Lord Dorchester; a furious gale of north,
nortii-west wind compelled him to seek
shelter under the lee of one of those islands,
wiiere the English man-of-war rode another
gale in safety. Lord Dorchester, grateful
for his escape, and'desirous of marking his
gratitude, asked Captain Cotlin whether he
would not like to possess these then insig-
nificant islands, to which he having assent-
ed, the patent was made out on his arrival
at Quebec. Adiniral Coflin was born in
Boston in 1760, entered the navy at the
early uge of thirteen, and passed through
the various grades of rank until the mid-
shipman became full admiral in 1814. He
died in 1839, ^""^ '^'^ ^^*^ islands to hi*
nephew, Captain John Townsend Coffin, an
officer in the British N'avy, now an adtniral.
They are an entailed estate in his posses-
sion. Both the late and the present
possessor have in a variety of ways testi-
fied their interest in the welfare of their
tenants, the inhabitants of the islands.
The income derived from them is merely
nominal, and is always expended in im-
provements designed to promote the wel-
tare of the inliahitants.
At the time the grant was made, the
population was about 500 souls. In 1861
tiie total population was found to be 3,651.
Amherst Island contains about 1,000 inha-
bitants, and is the inost iinportant of the
Magdalen group. Let us mention the
island styled " Deadman's Island," which,
on a dark September evening, in the year
1804, when he passed it, inspired the poet
— Thomas Moore — with some harmonious
verses, in connection with the old •uper-
stition amongst sailors about the phantom
ship called the "Flying; Dutchman."
H
Trifles from My Portfolio.
DKADMAN'S ISUAXD.
" Tlit-re lietli a wreck nii thf ilifnin! shore
Of cold and pitik-ss Labrador,
Where, umlertlit; niooii, upon iiuiiints ol froit,
H'ull iiianv a inariiiur's lioncs are lotsad.
" Yon shadowy bark halh been tothst wreck.
And the dim blue *lrc tliat liulils her duck.
Doth play on as pale and livid a crew
A« erer vet drank tlie churchvnrd dew.
" To Deadnian's Isle in thr eye of the bln»t.
To Deadiuan's Isle she spetdk licr f.i.->t;
Bv skeleton sliapes her sails are I'url'a,
And the hand that «teer« 'i not of this world '"
Ours is. however, no suprrruiUiiitl craft,
but rt phiiii tiitspd cousttT. :niNr;int. of l^oston, who visited
these rocks on the aist June, 1S60, for orni-
thological parpr)^es, thus liescnbes them ;
— '-Thev ar« two in number, called the
Great Uird oi- Gannet Rock, and the Little
, or North Bird. Thev are ahem., three-qiiar-
, tens of a mile apart, llie water between
I them vcr\' shoal, sh.owing that, at no very
distant epoch, thev lonnt.'d a single island,
iriiev are composed entirely of a sott, led-
I dish-brown sandstone, the strata of which
are verv regular and nearly horizontal,
dipping ver\' slightly to the S. \V. The
I North Bird is mucli the fimallcsl, and
ithoiujh the base is more accessible, the
i summit cannot, I believe, be reached — at
I !.;'ast. I was unable to do so. It is the
\ mo-t irregular in its outline, presenting
j manv enormous detached fragments, and
I is divni'.'d ill oik; place into two separate
j islands at high water— the northerly one
! several times iiiglvr than broad, so as to
1 present the appearance of a huj;e rocky
j jiillar. (jannel Rock is a cpiarter of a mile
I in its longest tiiameter tVom S. W. to N. E.
!The higiiest jioiiit of the rock is at the
I northerly end. where, according to the
j cliart. ir is 140 feet hiuWi, and from which it
jirradualiv i-lojies to tiie soutlierly end,
I whiTe it is fr.)ir. So to 100.
j ■■Th"siiles aie nearly vertical— the I'lun-
I mit ill manv places o\-erhangi ng. There
! are two heachei at its base, on^the south-
|eriy and westerly sidi> — tlie most westerly
i one <.'Oinparat I vel v smooth and composed
'; of rounded ftone*. The easterly one, oil
he contrary, is verv rou^h and covered by
rregular blocks, man\ of large «i«e and
still angular, showing that they have but
recently fallen from the clilli above. This
beach is very ditRcult to land on; but the
other preients no great dirTuulty in or i-
ufirv weather. Tlie top of the rock can-
not, however, be reacheil from either o!
them. The only spot from wiiich at pre-
s«nt thii ascent cnn bs miide, it the rocky
-I t
Trifles from My Portfolio.
25
point between the two In-aches. This has,
probably, from the yielding nature of the
rock, altered materially since Audubon's
visit. At present it winild be impossible
to haul a boat up, from want of space. The
landing is very diHicult. at all times, as it
is necessary to jump from a boat, tiirown
about by the surf, on to the inclined sur-
face of the ledge, rendered slippery bv the
fuci wiiich cover it, and bounded "lovvards
the rock by a neaiiy vertical face. The
landing once elTected", tin; first part of t!ie
ascent is comparaliveiy ea-v, being over
large fragments and broad led'^-^es: but the
upper part is botii diilicuit a,.d dangerous,
as in some places ihc hu-e of the rock is
vertical for eight or ten feet, and the pro-
jecting led'.ics very narrow, and the rock
itseliso^oit that it cannot ijc trusted to,
ami in addition rendered ,-lipperv bv the
constant trickling from abo\ e, and the ex-
crements of the birds tiial cover it in everv
direction.
"Since .Vudubon's time tlie fi-.liery,
which was curried on extcnsivelv i;i the
neigiiborhood of IJryon l,,land. lias failed
—or at least is less |iroduelive than on the
North shore; and I am inclined to luink
that at present the i)irds are but liitk dis-
turbed. and that co.iserpientl v their num-
ber, particularly of the Guillemots, ha.
much increa-sed. There was r.o appcaraner
ol an_\- recent visit on the top of tiie rocl^.
and though after making the accent it \v is
obvious that others had preceded us, still
the traces were so taint that it was several
hours before we succeeded in lindin'>- the
landing-p!
ace.
The birds breeding there.
at the tune of our visit, were (J innets. Puf-
fins, three species of (iuillemots, Razor-
billed Auks, and Kittiw.ikes. These birds
are all mentioned b\- Audubon, with the
exception of Hriinnieh's (Juillemot, con-
founded by him witli the common species.
No other breeding-|)lace on our shore is so
remarkable at once for the number and
variety of the species occupving it.
"Of the seven species mentioned, I am
not aware that three, namely, the Kittiwake
and the Bridled and Bniunich's Guillemot,
are known to breed at xnv other i)lace
south ot tiie ytrails of Belle Isk- ; of the
remaining four, two, the Foolish (iuillomot
and Razor-billed Auk, are ibund at many
other places and in large numbers; the
Pulhn 111 much greater abundance on the
North shore, particularly at the Perroiuiet
Islands, near .Mingan and Bras d'Or; the
Gannet at only two other |)oiiits in the
Gull" — at i'erce Rock near (i.ispe, which i.-,
perhapseven more remarkable than Gannet
Rock, but is at j)resent inaccessible ; and
at Gannet Rock near .Mingan, which will
soon be deserted' by those binis in conse-
quence of the depredations of the fisher-
man."
Chapter X.
TIIK MACJUALKX ISL.\NI).S VHiWED UNDER
TIIICIR HISTORICAL, UTILITARIAN AND
CO.MMICRCIAL ASPECTS.
In the preceding chapter this group of
islands were viewed chielly as a land-
grant to Sir Isaac Cotlin. •' Deadman's
Rock" — so called in consequence of its
I striking resemblance when seen from a
certain point, to a corpse covered by a
sliroud — came in for its share of notice,
aiul also as mentioned by Tom Moore;
the sketcii was closed by \i\-. Bryant's
excellent orniLliologieal report of the Bird
Rjcks. which however, possibly-, will be
relished by students of natural history
alone. Let Us portray these valuable
i-lanJs under tlieir most noticeable leature
— a seal tishing-station of apparently inex-
haustible wealth. I shall quote tVom
Comm.mder Foilin's excellent report for
1S64: —
"Tiie Ma.'dalen Ul.mds are about forty-
live miles iu length; tiieir greate.-t width
is thirteen n:iles. They lie near the
souLlierii point '.li the Guif of St. Lawrence,
facing the principal entrance to that inland
sea. between the 47th and 4Sth degrees of
north latitude ; their most southerlv
extremity being only twenty-five mile's
lurther north than the Citv of (4j_iebec, and
between the 6i.>t and 6jnd degrees of
longitude west iVom Greenwich.
" Discovered by Jacques Cartiei on his
first voyage to tin. 'fulf of St. Lawrence
'" Lrvf- these islai.^.s received the names
of Ramees, Bryon ;uui Alezay ; and it was
not until a later period that they acquired
the names which they now bear.
^ " Situated as they are at the mouth of the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, and in the sailing
line of vessels on their way to Canada, thev
were ircquently visited by the French trad-
ing ^and tishing vessels a'fter the discoverv
of Canada. But it does not api)e;ir that at
that time any considerable settlements were
made upon them previous to their conces-
sion in 1663 by the comjiany of New France
to FraiKj-ois Doublet, a s'hip captain of
nonlleur. who in the following \ear asso-
ciat.eil witii himself Fram,:ois" Gon de
C^iime and Claude de Landeinarc. lor the
purpose of irauing wmX fishing there. But
there is reason to Ik lieve that in 171^ the
islands again became the property oi the
French (Government, as the latter, accord-
ing to Charlevoix, conceded them to Le-
compte de .St. Pierre.
" In 1763, at tlie time of the cession of
Canada and its dependencies to the British
1 rifles from My Par tf olio.
Government, Ihey were only inh.ibited bv
some ten families of Frcn.-.h and Acadiiin
ori-in, who enL(a^a'ci in wulni-^ and seal
hnnlinif, and to a small extent in the her-
ring' and cod fishery. Sub-equently, an
American shippjr. Gridley i)y name, i
t'onnded, on Amhor^l. Mand. near tlie
entrance to tlie harbor of t';at name, a .
tralim; and lishin'jf cstahli-~h!nenl. t iie i
rnins of which still exi-t. He took i:r" ;
his service families of Freneli oriijin resid- j
in'.^ on the islands, in o'tier speeially lo
carrv on, upon a large scale, th,- ImnMnu'
of the. walrus and the seal, tiie oil obtained
from wliicii !)rou,'ht ."^ -400 1 price in ilie
markets of the New E'l-^land colonies, a-
did also tile skin-, whicli \iL'Kle'i a very
thick leallicr, ami ll.e tnsks wliich served
as a siibslit'.ite foi- ivory.
'• Tne property of Mr. Gridley and his
apparatus was 'parllv de-tro} .■ti liuring
the American War by tlie pnv:.leer.v()(
the revolted colonies, but oa tiic conclu-
sion of peace he resumed his irade .md
his labors; but the walruses, who^e habits
of coming in lierds ui)on the beach had
exposed them to the con-ianl attacks oi
the hunters, to whom tliey had become a
valuable prey, had already almost com-
pletelv disappeared from tlie vicinity ot
the island.-. On llie other liand. the seals
did not appear in as large numbers near
the shore, and were not as easily captured
as formerly, and in consequence ilie es'.ib-
lisiiments of Mr. Gridley and of other
shipper^ engaged more especially in the
luinling of amnhibious animals, rapiiUy
decreased in importance and prosperity.
•• i must here observe that besides the
fishermen of the Magdalen Ishmd-.a laygi
number had alto come from tlie ICu'^ilish
Colonies sine the coni lest of Canada.
to engage in walrus-lmnting. Tney had
carried it on with tli.it iierseverance and
energ',- tor w'lich tliev ai-e so celebrated.
and to them, in great measure, is to be
attributed the evlinction in our waters ol
tliis amphibiou.s animal, wliicli i~ secoiul
in importance only to the wliale.
'• 15. ittlie inhabiiaiits settled on Amiierst.
Grindstone, and AUriglit I-lands had al-
reatiy begun to engage in a inoix' -tea ly
manner in tiie ccjcI and herring lislu.'ry, the
produce of which they liarteieti with ihk-
traders of the other British I'.ovinces, and
even of Jerse}-, I'or provi.-ions ami iner-
ciiandise, and this yielded them umioubted
benefit. Moreover, the cultiv.-itiou ot' the
soil which, howe\'er, the}- by lar too much
neglected, as their destxiulants do at tlie
present da}', yielded them some certain
supplies, and at the time of the conces-jon
of all the Magdalen Islands, by tiie British
Goverumenl to Admiral Isaac Collin in
1798, as a reward for the services which he
had rendered to the English Crown during
the American war, the population of the
I^iaiuN was estimated at one hundred
t'amilies; but from information I was en-
abled lo obtain at Amher.st, I believe this
amount to be a little exaggerated. In iSji,
according to Col. Bo'icbette, the number of
fan. dies ha.l in rea-ed lo one hmidn.'d and
lirrn -tiiree, and i;i 1831. to one iiun higluM- \\\< ihan (Ja-pe Cape to tr}- their
iiiutunein the River St. Lawrence. It is
' rtitiier upon the North shore of the Gulf,
iie.'.r tlie I-iand ol Anticosti. ami at the en-
1 trance of the Straits ot Belleisje, that the
i n.'Ki- of ice are met with u|ion which are
generally found the greatest number of
-eals. It is hardU necessary for me to
repeat, tiiat tlie female sea!.-, which jiene-
j trat ' the (julf of St. Lawrence in enormous
herd- ill the month of December, '■'= get up
I * I-t'ii- ;i satisf.iet iry n.'|ily tu the question pro"
i p.)ui.ii' il l\v an Amciiciii wviU'r as lo Lliv hyliuniaou-
' ii:-n if the Atiska .-o.ils, as ri)llo\v.s; —
I I'll,' i^i.iiiis '^'( .Vlaska arc lliu -uinmiir rcsurl
' ni .-1 ,il- i:i iinmtiisu iiiim|ii'r> ; but where tiny sp'iul
'.I'.cir '.viniiTS is an uiiinlveil iiivsturv. SuHiiii.'nt
t'lreli 1 as !)ct:n iiiaiU' Inr llieir wiiitLT aiiodos — with a
'. i( w f> t.iUmj lluir ^Mns — lo show Dial llii'y iln not
I iiul in aiiv cnsiJcialili' iimnbcrs on any known
(i;i"un(l. 1 hey bcijin lo Iravc llio islands carlv in
0,;t'ili(.i-, ami by the niiililUMif Diciriiber liavc all left
I .:ihI noiiu .nit M'L-n a;;aiii until April or .M.iy. .\ few
i luruiricl, mostly yomiL; pups, are taUrn i'V the In-
I lil.nis .ircpinul Sitka, 1,200 miles east of Ihc i-lamls,
. duinm Ihu 111. mill of Dcttnnlicv, auam in M.ircli on
Uair relnrn to the isl.uuls, and in I'ubniaiy oil' tlie
I coast ol" Urilish Columbia; biit in sneh smaHnmiibors
I a^^ 10 niakr no apprcieiabk- dillcreiirc in the Imnuinsc
nimibi'r liiatvi-il tin. iilauil.- annu.illy. It i- elaiincd
' by till' natives that the seals return invariably the
ML- ind year to tluir pi. ices ol' biiih, aiul, when not
i toil 0tu.11 d is tin bud by driving, continue to ilo so. In
1 order lo test the truth of tliis story, Air. Ilyrant,
Trifles from My Portfolio.
27
on the floating ice about tlic middle or end I ir.cals, and to siipplv tlieni with hot drinks
of March to bring fortli their young, wliich ; in order to protect them from tiie eilects ot
they nurse with great tenderness and suckle \ tlie cold and d:nn;i. to which they are in-
for the three or four weeks, or perhaps cessantly exposed. With their clubs they
more, which time they [)a~s upon the ice \ stun all tlie '^eais wl:ich ih,:y come upon,
without going into the w.iter. It is during \ and then u-e llieir kuive-. to dispatch 'Jiem
that period that our lur.Uers have to use ' and remove the skin and lat. When they
their endeavors t > got ili in into tii'ir po,->- \ iliink tlifir harvc'-t hirgi; enough, thev tie
session by killing them cilJier wit'.i club- ] tiget'e.er with a rope, with which they are
or by shojtin_;; for vubsLC|'i:-nll v wi-.cn piov'doil. as much of their ^jjoils a^ will
they have attained -ulVicieiit --ti-.iigth. tiiey : ^iilliee to make a i)urthen of from three
take to the water and the hnnt.r-. see them j hundred to three hundreii and lilty pounds,
no moi-i;. l>ut the il mating ice al-.() serves 1 find they then drag tlii- va!ual)le loail from
for a habitation for the ad. ill seals— cspe- | ""<■' pi<^ce of ice to another to the shore,
cially the females— u liile ihey are lending 1 where thev leave it in safety, and relm-n to
their young, and o\w huiitcr- purine them j the same ground to gather a fresh harvest.
eagerly where il is in their power to do so— j This (aligning and often dangerous labor
that is when they can approach them with- (continues throughout the whole day, and
out being perceived, or else when these oven th.> night in clear weather, so long as
amphibious animals are upon ice so closely there are any -,eals on the ice near the
packed togetiier that tliey can find no open ; shore, and the ice has not been driven away
place through which lu plunge into the ' b\ the laml breeze, [have been told that
vvatei-, and so escape pursnU. Tiien our ' foi merly. when t'.e seals were more nuiner-
hunters make great slaughter anxMig them, I ous than at present in ll:e water.s of the
and crews of seven men iiave been Mime- i Gulf, the inhabitants of the Magdalen
times known to kill hundreds.
"Coiuinues high wiiuls, biowirig tVom
the saine quarter lor some ieiv^th of time.
drive the fields of ice covered with seals
towards the shores of the l>lanils. an.d
Islands had taken as many as from one
thousand live hundred to two lhous;ind
seaK. nearly all young on the liekls of ice
aground near the shore. I5ut since I have
been xisiiing the islands, the results pro-
keep tiiem aground near the coast until a : duced by seal-hunlilig have been less
change of wind supervenes, anil at such
times great [iri/^es tail to the Islanders. In
an instant the news is spread thrcnigh all
the Islands by the ringing of bells and the
filing ol gun.";, and soon the whole pojiula-
tion rushes to the shore, whence may
easily be seen the seals scattered rner the
ice as far as the eye can reach,
" Wnmgandold men. each armed with a
abundant, and have sometimes amoiuUed
to hardly anything. This year(iS64) by
a happ\ conciuTence of circumstances, it
was ])roductive. having yiehled at least
six thousand seals, which cannot be \alued
at less than three dollars each, thus giving
a total value ot' eighteen thousanti dollars.
This excellent hunting took place on the
jylh. jS.h. ami pan of the ::9'h April,
large Knife, a rope, and a club, -pring on [having consequently lasted but two days
to the lields 01 ite, while the women remain I •1"'-' '^ I'^l'"- The ice driven by a : iiong
on the siiore within reach, to prepare their | o^'-t wind drifted out to sea. cairying with
i it thousands of seals be\oiui the icaeh of
„ . , . . r .1 T r^ . . . t.-. ^ 'li"-' hunter-, who-e disappointment may be
Speciiil Aj-ciit (if Uic 1 rc.isiiry DLiiarlmcnl ;U St. ' ' •
Paul's Isl:iiul, liiis iiistittitcd an tx|ii'rimciit of an ] more easily imagined than ilescribed.
oininoiitly pniclical cliaraclcr, altliniii;li it nii.'ht not
i-Diiimainl till' I'litirc approval ol Mr. licr^li, whose
"Tills hunting is very often allended with
jiirisdk-tioM, lunv.'MT, clorsiir.icxieiul to .AiasU.i. lie ijanger, for the currents or the wind some-
had one liu lulled male pups siltelid ln-toro kaviny;, | . ' ,. , .
on arookcivono mile iioithoitiK- vill.iLrcandiiiarUcd ' times drive Oil tile ICC felore tiic liunters
l,yeuttini;olltluHeltear,nounted in number
this year to J5."
Thi- navigation of these crafts amongst
the icc-tloL's, ill early spring, amid-t snow-
storms and hurrican-.'s. i.-. atlendcii witii
considerable danger. Thns perished the
"Emma" and tlie '• Hreez^.'"— the crew^
leaving 13 widows and -] 5 nrphans. ()l the
herring, maciverel and cod lUlieries, ^cc..
ol the^e island-, impoctanl and remunera-
tive pursuits thoiigii they he. \ will, for
want of space, merely give Commander
Fortin's olHcial return-^ lor 1864: —
Seal limiting.
6,000 seals killed bv t'ne inhabi-
tants on the ice. at .$3 00
a seal, - - - .$iS.ooo 00
1,633 seals i.i!iy li.is licrn
fonm-'l in MintrcMl, |).irt of the c.ipil.il licliiy suh-
scrih.; t iicro, t'.)r the prosecution m" t!ie slmI fishery.
Twd fine iiuw steamers, the '' Iceland" and " Green-
land," are no.v oil tlie p.issaife iVoin .Vljerdeen, liav-
io;^ luen liuilt by t'ais IJoinpiny. It is reported thai
Sir lliirli Aliaa lias a considerable interest in this
adventure. Another new steamer for tlie feaHisherVi
called the " Wolf" has jnst arrived to \V. Grieve it
Co. *'rhe " I'i'^ress," a Ibiirth new steamer, owned
by some of our own luerchauts, and Iniilt in (^lebec,
was unfortiin.itely locked in the ice, in consequence
"fan " oarly closin;^ inovement" on t!ie part of the St.
Lawrence, last Xoviinber, .S.he is, of course, pre-
cluded from bharing in ;lii.s year's lisliery.
Summer Mackerel Fishery.
1,400 barrels of mackerel, at
$10. 00 a barrel,
$14,000 00
IV/ialc Oil.
360 of whale oil, at 70 cents a
gallon, . - . . 25^ 00
$86,590 05
Alright Island lies to the north-east of
Amherst Island, and forms the north-east
boundary oi Pleasatit Bay, which has a
width of about twelve miles. The island
is about totir miles long by two broad, and
it- surface is almost entirely a succession
of small hills and \-alleys. Grindstone
IbL'iiul is so called from a lofty conical cape
of sandstone on its south-east shore, called
by the French Cap de .Mcale. This i.sland
ibi'iiis the north-east boundarj' of Pleasant
Bay. and is almost live miles in length.
Its soil is ricii, and agriculture is prose-
cuted with vigor. At its western limit is
the thriving village of L'Etang du Nord.
The Jutige of Bonaventure District holds
!us court e.icli year at the Magdalen Is-
lands in September, and I had the pleasure
of recognizing in this dignitary a worthy
Q^iebec Police .Magistrate of ancient days
— His ilonoi- Mr. Jtistice Maguire.
From the Magdalen group, the sailing
packet takes you -ither to Gaspe Basin or
to Piclou, and the Gulf Port steamers con-
vey the traveller from the latter place to
Paspebiac.
, Cri.\PTER XI.
NEW RICII.MOND — M\UI.\ — ITS MYSTERIOUS
LIGHT— CARLKTON — ITS ROTHSCHILD,
J(JIIN ME.VGHICR, ESq^ — THE HOME OF
THE .VC.\DI.\NS.
There are several other points of interest
in the Bay which I had not an opportunity
of visiting. For the following notes on the
same 1 am indebted to a well-informed
ollicial of Port Daniel : —
" On leaving Black Cape you travel over
hills and valleys of fertile, well-cultivated
lands settled by Scotch and French Cana-
dians, until you arrive at the little river,
the homestead of the Pritchards on the
(lat lands.
Trifles from My lurlh li'n.
29
'•'rtu- tirstsctllLTs of New Riclm-iOnd were '
four Frencli-CiuKulian ramilies — Biiikels,
I)e2fousJC, Saver. Cormier — and in 17S3
t:iree families of Loyalists, viz.. Pi it chard,
^\■illol, DulTev — tiie head of one, Captain
i'ritchard, was rather more than a Loyal-
i>-l — being an ollicerin the Atnerican Army,
he Wiml o\er to the Britisli. lie received
liair nay until his ilealh in 1827, ami was
to the last a ^t()ut, darini^ olii man.
• On crossing tlie little river, lording at
low walerorby scow at high, yon arrive at
the hj-iness part of it. There are here
two charches — a Presbyterian and a R.C.
churcii witliin hall a mile of each other;
two mercantile establishments ; mills where
the ijiisines.-. of the townshiji is centered. ,
Here Wm. Cnthberl, of Ayrshire, e.<:tab-
lishrd hiin-rlf in iSjo, By dint ol energy>
enteiprise an ! honesty he accumulated a
t'oriune of $400,000 as -partner ot Robert
Cuthhert. in Greenock, on the Clyde; and \
dieii recerill}', much re'peded. Robert;
Moniuomerv and son have i-ucceeded him
in \'-\v Richmond, and do a large bu>incss
in m;i:^•. timber, \'c.
•• 'I'ne p jpnlation is Scotch and French-
Caiia.iian interniixed. One mile and a
hall fr)u Mrs. Cuthburl"!- bring- you to the
biu i:\-r ot New Richmond, in Indian
iaiiguage. Ca.'-cniieJiac, tin- di\i>;.>n line
ot the town.ship of Muria. on crossing the
b.g ri\'er by scow, lot it aj'pe.ars we are
never destined to have bridge.-,, ie>;>-"epl on
the dawn of elections, ti'Cy are ne\er
sjioker, oil.; The east point of Maria i.s
an Indian res^Mve rie«l of the mission. Point
Re.sligouche, twice a year. These Indians
arc of the lowest cnnnillc of the genius, red-
skin. ]-.-aving the Indians one iniie, yon
get into a prosperous settlement of t rench-
Canadians for one mile and a half, when
you ariive at the snug residence of Harvey
Manderson, Esq., J. P.. a clever and origi-
nal character. In rear of Mr. Manderson,
there exists a prosperous settlement of
Pallanders, formed twenty- five years ago.
Two miles further brings you lo the R. C.
church, and to the residences ol tlic
numerous and patriarchal family of Au-
dettes. One must not forget the harth old
Anticosti trajijier. R.Camiibell. Esq., now a
successful merchant in Maria. On the
Cape of Maria shines nightly the my-teri-
oiis light which disappears when aji-
proached. It indicates the presence of a
treasure buried here in days of yore — 'Bu!
don't tell it to the Marines.' Five mile---
further is Carleton, the home of liie
Acadians ui' old, tlie Landry, Atl.ird.
Aliain, Le Blanc, Jacpie, Caisy familie'^.
One of the formei" industries of the Buy.
the smoking of herrings, has cpiite di.-ap-
peared, as it did not jiay. At the foot o''
the loft^- mountain range known as the
Tracadegetche Mountains, is built the ri.-
mantie \iilat(e of Carleton in a shellercJ
nook. In 1S61, the population of the enti'e
townsliip was nine iiundrcd and fifty-eig'it
souls, of whom twenty-six were Proti .-
tarits. This portion of the coast was fi-'
settled b_\ Acadians, \viio, coniing fro n
Tracadie, named thi^ .siiot Tracadigcletfe,
or little Tracadie.
"The Bay of Caileton is a fine shec (f
water formed by Mlgouacha anil T:;' ,i-
digetche points. The I'iver Xouv- '.:■.'
empties itself in tiiis Bay. Tiie anchora.:-.'
is good, and the Bay atifords a safe reU.^e
for shijiping from northerU- and east'iiy
gales. It is a 1V.\ .■.!-i;i.' i-e.-oi-t ol th.e her-
ring in >]iring a- a spawning-groiuu!. .1". I
immen.-e qiantitic- are cauuhi. wiiich ..r^
u-ed not only a-- food, but ai-^'i as mrvuM;.'.
Ili're resides the wealthy and I'espcc'vd
member of the count} . John Moagiier, E- q.,
the fallie--in-law of our young friend at
Qj.iebec. P. Chauvi.'au. Escp Here our
much-re-pected townsman. Dr. Landry of
(.^lebec), ha.^ b.iilt himself a snug \illa, '■>
spend thereat llie sumnici- m.-jnths.
"New Richmond is a 1 ic!i agricuUur.'il
country lor many \ears back, expc)rtin:'
largely to Halifax ari^! New Ibundiai'.d, a-
well as several cargoes of timber and deaii
to Britain. Maria and Bonaventure export
agricultuial produce to some extent. Carle-
ton is a stirring place, with ;i baniv
agency and consideiable bu'^iness. A few
>ears ago this place threatened to ri\ai
Rimouski as the seat of the EpisCO|Mc\
lor this district. There is a hands, )'ne
con\-enl at Carleton, founded main|\ hv
the liberality of Mr, John Meagher, A 'ow
miles from Carleton the line of the IiiJ.i-
colonial Railroad comes out, and liie
village of Matapedia will much bcn-.Mit
thereby. Here lies the beautiful farm of
Big Dan Eraser, the prince of Ga pe
fanr.ets and good fellows."
3®
Trijics from My Port folic
LANMAN,
TEUR.
A WASHINCiTON LITTKRA-
•\Ve walked silent iilong the slioix- (il llie nsouiuliiig
«ta."'
CiiAr-TKR XII. side of the Atlantic lor his adventurous
I ''Gil Bias''— fresh froni the groves of
AN IICOSTI — I LOrSA.M AND |ETSAM — DIE , BlarnCV.
I
PIRATE OK THE ST. LAWRENCK (oA- ' The historian f\*rhind has left us in
MACHE) DELINEATED Bv CM ARLES i 0"^ of hls light and huHiorous papers a vcry
j good pen-and-ink photo of the pirate,
j whose den he visited in iS.^i. Amongst
! the implements of warfare which orna-
mented the walls, he noticed twelve fire-
arms, chiefly double-barrel guns, and a
! small cannon in front of the house. The
1 can recall Anticosti in its palmiest days Abbe's sketch, no doubt, guided our friend,
forromance. and in its darkest era for sea- Charles Lanman, in his delineationsof the
faring men, before the epoch of fog- celebrated sea rover, who was indeed
whistles, lightships, and beacons. Fond !
. , VI.. II " A man 01" loneliness and niysleiv."
memory takes me back to a well-remem- ■'
bered sea voyage, prescribed in 1843 by At the time I visited Anticosti for the
doctors, in quest of health, and made in a first time, the particulars of the melan-
well-known Gaspe whaler — tlie •' Breeze," choly fate of the "Granicus" were >till
Captain Arbour. In that year I visited for fresh in every mind.
the first time the desolate isle which The brig -'Granicus" was stranded at
Gamache — the legendary and dreaded ' Fox Bay, on the east end of the Island.
wrecker— had selected as a secure retreat in November, 1828. There are yet at the
lor his plunder, if not for a happy home, tiine I write, living witnesses amongst us
'I'he redoubted pirate was then in the zenith I of the "Granicus" tragedy; amongst
of his fan:e (if fame means lawless deeds) others Captain Jesse Armstrong, Harbor
— encounters with Her Majesty's Revenue Master at Q^iebec, who having sailed from
officers— predatory attacks on the for- that port un the 24th Oct., iSi8, for the
lorn crews which the autumnal storms i West Indies, was in company with the
might, perchance, cast on the God-forsaken "Granicus" and a dozen other vessels, at
^hores of Ellis B.ay. , Pointe de Monts a few days before the
Louis Olivier Gamache, delineated by an j accident which befel those vessels. Tiie
adept of the new sensational school, would greatest number were cast ashore; some
have exhibited in his person the imprint of , were never heard of afterwards. The
a full-blown htros de romcins. What rich j passengers and crew of the "Granicus"
vistas of feeling, bravado, and remorse, \ safely arrived on land to meet a more
this master spirit of evil might have re- hideous and lingering fate. All perished
vealed under the magic wand of Alexander
Dumas, Wilkie CoUins, Eugene Sue, or
Fenimore Cooper ! It was, doubtless, from
tluring the ensuing svir.ter, and when the
Government schooner called at the Island
in th« spring following, to stock the light-
Gamache that Leever borrowed some of i house with provisions, &c., the decayed
the dark traits of his "Black Boatswain " j remains of these unfortunate men were
ill "Con Cregan," selecting at the same j discovered in a rude hut. They had liter-
iuK- Anticosti as the landing-place on thi ^ ■ ally starved to death. In a pot over a lire-
Trifles from Xh Portfolio.
3'
placi \v,is lami.iii ihsli, revealing- tlie |
awful fact that in tlieir last extremity tliey
had resorted to tiiis horrible mode of pro-
loiiginy life. Amongst the passengers,
there was a Montreal lady and her two
• •hildren. The old residents of Anticosti
must more than once have had duties to
perform, such as those described by
'I'horeau, at Cape Cod :—
" Once." says he, •• it was mv business
to go in search of the relics of a human
body mangled by sharks, which had just;
been cast up a week after a wreck. Having '
got the direction from a lighthouse — I
should find it a mile or two di»tant over
the sand, a dozen rods from the waiei,
covered with a cloth, by a stick stuck up —
I expected that I must look very narrowlv
to find so small an object: hul the sandy ;
beach, half a mile wide, and stretching
farther tl»an the eye could reach, was so
perfectly smooth and bare, and the mirage
towards the .■lea so magnifying, that when i
1 was half a mile distant, the insignificant i
sliver which marked the s[)ot looked like:
a bleached spear, and the relic> were a^
conspicuous as it' they lay in slate on that;
sandy plain, or a generation had labored ;
to i)ile up theii- cairn liierc. Close at:
hand there were simply some bones with a
little tlesh adhering to them ; in fact. oel conihined. Tlie intellijfcnce he e iiimuni-
eates respectiu;^ trie ^vealllcr he expericiiced, is put
in llie to|l.)u'iri luase is not of ,i melaucliolv turn.
Instead o( complaini!!-.; of the breezy, free/y, snowy,
l)!owjr weather, he ■;i!oi;iy.',s ill t!ie sulijoined stanzas
our liiihtliouscf , aiut delic.Ucly points out in the two
last verses a deticiencv ttiat exists at M.inieouay^an,
which we h.ppe. al'ier Captain Cruielic tlicre's some in >i)i:lit
Like .miidin' star,
0:i rock :in' headhin", or in biifht,
Tliat shines alar.
" 'Sour pilots now niiiy work tor ever
I'lie liahts are placed for tliem ^o cle\ei ;
To keei> them all their side the river.
Seen s wide awake;
s.niat An-ton-ey bless the jifiver,
IC'en lor their sake I
" liut list ye, sirs, to a lady's prayer —
Could you not your bounty s!iai<-,
And anither lantern spare
I'"or Maiiicouas^an ?
.\ bi^lil is inuckle wanlit tlitre
'l"o save a (lairgon.
•' I'"or, sirs, I'll whisper in your e.ir.
Us inony :i bottom's scrubbed, I fear;
K\ en mine, alas I it made feel i|ueer
An' rumpled sairly ;
Therefore I hope my words ye'll hear.
An" h'trlit it early."
S2 Trifles from My Portfolio
wiis concctlcd ill 1680 to Jean Jollict. i iliifled iIowti the rivei> oi ihc main land,
'I'iii- island is i^j miles long. 30 broad, '• and pailiculaiiv Iho St. Lawrence. Some
and 270 miles in eireiimf'erence. and con- of the scinared timber mav have been de-
laine nearly 2,cx3C),ooo acies of land. Its lived from wrecks. Anticosti, frotn its
neaiCNt poiiil is about .};n miles beh)w position at the entrance of the Gull', from
CJjKbec. its natural resouree>. and the teeming life
The limehlone rocUs on the coa^t are of the sea which surroutui'- it. has attracted
covered with a thick a:ui often impenetra considerable notice of late years. Kllis
ble lorest of dwarf s|)ruce. wiiii ynarlcd Hay miglil heconic an important naval
branches so twisted and malted IOi,'elher station. The isl.ind originally formed "
that a man may walk for a considerable part of tic country called Labrador. \\\
distance on their summits. 1SJ5 U wa- rc-ai:nexed to Lower Canada
In the interior some liin- timber exists, by an act of the Imperial Parliament. It
l'ur>li. who visited the I.~land in 1S17. i.- nnw i/, tlu 1. ami- of a considerable num-
fmind the jiond pine ;//;,v/.>- , t!ic coast Mr. Lanman's sKi^tch ol its «elebrated
abo'ind with trout anJ salmon in the sum- wiicker. Gamache. iVom the \'civ York
mil -oa-on. Ti:e chie'' ones are Jupiter yoin-iuil 0/ Coviiinrci- : —
River, Sahnon Ru-er ami Schalioii Creek.
hea.- licqiicnt Ihi hal J;nu'.- tone rocks in
vast numbers. ^L'lckerei in imnvMi'^e Lonel_\' and desolate are the shores of
shoa!.coni;regate around all part . o; the ^^^X'"'''^'' /" ;^;;"'^- '/'"f^ ="-^' '^'^^l^ed u,i
-' == ' , Willi ice and wh.itened with snow, — and in
coa-t I>ear.s are very numerous; foxes summer aiinosl continually enveloped in
and nartens abnmlan: . ( Jlters. and a tew lo^t;s. To all mai incrs who have occasion
mice, complete tl;. known li-t of cp.i.uiru to sail the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Ihev are
,,,,,1 v,;m,,,. ...1 , . 1 . '^ perpetual terror, and the main- shii)-
jiei)-, .Neithei snakes, toads iif>r -.'jl^s. ' •' • .1 1 ■ .,'
■^ wrecKs occurring there have L"ven to the
are ki. >wn to exist on this desolate island. Lland a mournful celebrity. Two li^jhl-
Tliere are no good natural haibois on liouses, lighted from March to December.
Antici.-^ti. Provision posts have been ii"'-' !\^<' P''^^'--'"" 'i^'pol-sare tiie onl c locali-
cstabn-hcd by the Canadian Government, l'*"' "".^'"^' V''''"'' '''''^''^ ^''"=''' ^^''" '"'S'
lor the reuet of ciew> wrecked on the
' have escaped a watery grave can obtain
.-uccor from famine and cold, and the mos!
Islam;, and three lighthouses are . now noted of tliem is the Bay of Gamache. It
mainl;rncd at the wot. east and south- '^ 'iboi'L 'ive mile.- in circuni ference, the
west p..ints. When 1 vi.-iied tlie south- ■ °"';' , ''''.'">■ .:'''-"'"^" ''-^'-'J"'' /» the region
„ , ,. , , and derives its name Irom the strange man
west point in 1S43. the lighthouse was ^vho there first made himself a ' liome.
kept b\ :;n old Waterloo soldier of the name From C^^iebec to Gaspc, — from Gaspc to
o( MctJi'.vrav. so I'ar as I can recollect Pictou. not a name was better known, and
Mr. Pope was in cliaige ol one of the "'^ '"'"-''''''rf '^t^'-iC'^ picked up by the writer
ciiiei' 1-yhthouscs for manv' vears. Tlicsc > v • , , ■ ,
,. . , " " .\otiti IS liirL'liv ;iiven, tlml a))p!it;iliiiii will lie
llghthon-es are about 90 teet high, most >n.-u!c to tl.c l>.,rliae. be saw a sti.lwait Indian di^. embark
fiom ills (.ante, aid witti :l !k ttl. in his
haijd. march directly lor the dwellim,'.
T);e mcvements of 'be s;c\age. bis fond-
ness fcr liquor, aid Lis well-known
charticter for fii^bti'}i(. poi tended trouble.
As he approached, Gamr.che planted him-
self at tbe ib.reshold of bis casile. ritle in
hand, and exclaimed, '• One step further,
and I will fuel" Tbe step was t:, ken. but
it was the last, fc r a builet shattereil the
thiiib bone of the savage. Thus reduced
to helplessness, he was gratified to find
that Gamacbe carrier! bim 'nto tbe bouse,
placed him en abed, doctored his wound
and took <.\oons. bis fears were ex-
cited to the highest pitch. Gamacbe ob-
served this, but onl ■' eiijove'il tbe stranger's
r.nsternation. A smoking suppi r was
-pread upon tbe table but even the
moolle aid tbe beavers tail wi.re only
tasted by cne of the party — the e} c of the
ether quivereil with exci emei:t, and his
thoughts were bent upon tbe tale that
wouKl circulate rei-pecting bis late. He
matle a di-play of gayety ; when the even-
ing was waxing on, he lose to depai t and
with many expressions of thankfiillness be
offered his band to bislu.st, " Nc , no, my
iriend," said Gamacbe, ''jou must not
leave here; tbe sea Is roui'h, and the night
is dark and wet, and you cannct leave the
bay. I have a comlortable bed upstairs,
and to-morrow you may leave if still alive."
These wonls sounded like a knell, and up
in the ebrniber ol death, as b.e supposed,
asceuiied tbe pilot. "You may sleep,"
continued Gairacbe, a? bo handed bis
guest a lamp •• as lorg and soundly as you
can. Your bed is soft; it is made with the
down cfb-rds I m\ self have kil'ed ; for I am
a good >.bot. and \ ne\ er miss my game."
For a while the pi'ot bad found it impos-
sible to cjuiet bis never certain s'eep : but
nature finally gave way, and he UU into a
doze which was anything but relresbing.
As tbe clock struck twelve he was startled
by a noise, ami opened his eyes. There
sTood Gamacho by the bedside wi!h a
candle in one bantl and a gun in the other.
•• I see you are awake," saiil be, '-but why
so very "pale } You have beard, undoubted-
I ly, thatl am in the habit ol mirdering every
one who tarries at my l;ouse, and — banging
the gun on the two w^ooden pegs — "I have
c( me to give you a settler tor t\;e night!"
With this remark be displayed a bottle of
brandy and tumbler, and alter drinking
the health of tbe pilot, banded bim tbe
glass and continued— '' There, take a good
pull ; it will make you sleep soundly, and
if Gamacbe comes to attack you during the
niglit, you can defend yourself with the
loaded gun banging over your head," and
thus the joke ended. "When morning
came, the storm bad disappeared; and the
pilot and bis host were quite as happy as
the day was bright.
Trifles from My Portfolio.
35
And thus was it, as the iiiooti catrie upon
him, that Gatnache eiuloavorcci to relieve
the monotony of his self iiiHicteti exile. II is
ntllietiotis seemed to have eiiaimed his
charaeler; tiiough certainly witliout j,aiile,
a kind o( passi(M) lor doiiit^ out-ol-ihe-way
thintj;s lollowed him to the close ol' his lite,
and j^ave liim tl.e uner.viahlc reputation
he possessed. lie died in iSv| Ironi the
ellects of exposiiie to cold, anil the [ileasant
Bay with his name is ahout the only memo-
rial he left hehind.
And now for a tew authentic particulars
respeclini^ the (general character of the
Islaiui ol' Anticosli, as develoiieil hy recent
explorations. It is one luuuiied and lliirty-
six miles long, ami thirty-six miles wiile;a
large part of the coast has a lielt of lime-
stone reels that are ilry at low water; the
south side ol the Island is generally low,
but on the northern coast there are hills
and dill's that attain an elevation of three,
foiu' and live hnmired lei'f. The only
attempts at cultivation that have heen made
are at Gamache Uay, South-West Point
and Heath Point, and the chief agricul-
tural productions are potatoes, barley and
peas; the forest land is abundant, but-the
trees are commonlv small, and even dwarf-
ish, and peat or mossy bogs abound in
every direction. Fruit- hearing trees and
shrubs are ipiite plentiful, hut one of the
most valuable natural proiluctions is a wild
pea growing along the shore of the ocean.
The two principal rivers are the .Salmon
and the Jupiter, and all tl.e streams as well
as the lakes, which are numerous, are said
to swarm with salmon, salmon trout and
trout; the wild animals are the bear, the
black, red anil silver fox, and the marten.
In the hogs and moie sheltered [larts of
the coast seals are extremely abundant.
Hesic'es the harbor named after Gamache,
I hut originally called l^llis Bay, there is a
I Harbor called Fox Bay, but neither of
! them would shelter vessels of more than
I live huiulred tons burden. The Inland is
I under the Jurisdiction of Lower Canada,
but is the jirivate property of a family
residing at Q^iebec,
36
Irijlea from My Portfolio.
C'llAI'TKK Mil.
"THE VOIfKS Ul' rilli SICA "— \ '^HIKM
WITKOIT WIND — SOMr. <'! J MH^L'ES
lAKTll It's \N1> >. II \KI.I A i'I\ lOllill
VAKN; Till-; I.r.(iKNliAUY H>KI. dl ITIE
ST. I-AWKKNCK — I.K IlK \ 1 1. 1. \K l< I)K
LA MAlit>KI.KINi:.
The reliini trip irom A'.Uicosli wa-
murkeii by a lingular incident — a lieav\
swell witlioiU a breath of wind. The
" Breeze" having no lieadway. would not
steer, and rolled helplessly in the trough of
the sea: so much at times, that one might
have expected her masts to snap like reeds i
— a mo.st radiant sunshine during all this
while. No noise caut;lit the ear except cer-
tain low luul'.erings in the distance, which'
chimed ;n niournt'ully with the creaking oi'
the vards as the vessel rose and tell lo the
billows. A school oi whale-, and some
])orpoibes, disported themselves north of
Us, the former spouting from their nostrils
the briny surt. Did these munnuring-
proceed from these ie\iathans oi the deep.'
It lecalled those '■ mysterious noiscs ol
the ocean " .>o excpiisitely des.'riheil by
Chateaubriand, and likened by liim to ihe
'voices ot birds: — " Ces oiseau.v ;ivaieiit
des voix extracjrdinaire^. v. mine ceiles qui
sortent de nier-. Si I'ocean :i sa Klore. il a
aussi sa I'hiloinele : lor-qu'au voucher du
soleil le courlis sitlle'sur ia pointe dun
locher, et que le bruit des v:i:;ue> r;uom-
])agne. c'est une des harmonies le- plus
jiiaintives que Ton puisse entendre." It
^va.1 not. however.
* ^ " A wild, |lll>lllia^.■U')ll^ >ouiid,
I.,iUe l)ioki.ii lluiiidtTS Unit ;it dis\;nicf roai ,
'')r iiillow.s inuniuiring on the liollow shoro,
The eccentric Thoreau depicts thus,
those peculiar utterings of Old Ocean which
are at times heard in tlie midst of a calm
or before a storm :—
"The soiindH which the ocean makes
must be very significant and interesting to
those who live near it. When I was leav-
ing the shore at this place (Cape Cod) the
next summer, and had got a quarter of
a mile distant, ascending a hill, I was
startled by a certain loud sound from the
sea, as if a large vessel were letting dff
steam by the shore, so that I caught my
breath and felt my blood run cold for an
instant, and I turned about expecting to
see one of the Atlantic steamers thus far
out of iier course, but there was nothing
uni:su;il lo be seen. There was a low
bank at tlie entrance of the hollow, between
me and the ocean, and suspecting that I
might have risen into another stratum of
air in ascending the hill, which had wafted
to me only the ordinary roar of the sea, 1
immediately descended again, to see if I
lost hearing of it: but without regard to
tn\ a>eending or descending, it died away
in a minute or two. and }et there was
scarcely any wind all the while. The old
man said that this was what ti»ey called the
• rut,' a peculiar roar of the sea before the
wind changes, which, however, he could
not account for. lie thought that he could
tell all about the weather from the sounds
wliicli the sea made.
■• Old Joselyn, who came to New England
in ifJ^S, has it ;imong his weather signs
that 'the resounding of the sea from the
shore, and murmuring of winds in the
woods, without apparent wind, sheweth
wind to follow.'
•' Being on another part of the coast one
night since this. I heard the roar of the
surf a mile distant, and the inhabitants
said it was a sign that the wind would work
round east, and we should have rainy
Trifles from My Portfolio.
37
weather. The ocean was heaped up some-
where at the eastward, and this roar was
occasioned by its eflort to preserve itsequi-
libriiim, the wave reaching the siiore be-
fore the wind. Also the captain of a pack-
et between this country and England
told me that he sometimes met with a
wave on the Atlantic coming against the
wind, perhaps in a calm sea, which indi-
cated that at a distance the wind was blow-
ing from an opposite quarter, but the un-
dulation had travelled faster than it. Sail-
ors tell of 'tide-rips' and 'ground-
swells,' which they supi)ose to have been
occasioned by hurricanes and earthquakes,
and to have travelled many hundreds, and
sometimes even two or three thousand
miles." (Cape Cod — Thoreau — p. 39.)
How many thousand miles away was
brisk Eurus stirring up his domain? and
this unuxplicable tide-rip, or ground-swell,
from whence had it travelled?
The caption to this chapter leads the reader
to exp"ct, inter alia, some " tough yarns ''
from old travellers; the reader must not
be disappointed.
Charlevoix, the historian, relates that
Jacques Cartier, on the 15th May, 1534,
on visiting the Bird Rocks recently describ-
ed, had an encounter with *" a white bear
of the size of a cow, who sprang into the sea
on seeing Cartier 's boats. The day after,
the great discoverer captured Bruin whilst
swimming near the coast of Newfoundland
— fourteen leagues distant!" Heugh !
what a swim ! Leander's feat on the
Hellespont was a mere joke to this; the
Arctic stranger may also have been swim-
ming for love! Who dares deny? This
seems tough, but what Charlevoix says of
the flesh and habits of the Canadian horn-
ed owl is even more so.
t " This bird," says be " is good eating,
♦ " De la il (Cartier) rcmnnta aunord,ct ijagna ilcs
iles qu'il appc'la dans sos Mtiunircs Ics lies aiix Ois-
eaui. EUes sout eloignces de Terreiieuve de qua-
torze lieues, et il fut bien surpris d'y voir un ours
blanc, de la jjrosseur d'une vache, qui avail fuit ce
trajct a la nage. Dis que cet animal eut apercu les
chaloupes qui allaient a terre, il se jetta a la mer et le
lendemain Cartier I'ayant reinnntre assez prfes de
Terreneuve, le tua et le prit." (Hist: Nouvelle
France, Vol. i, p. 8.)
t La chaire du Chat Huaot Canadien est bonne a
inanfrer, et bien des gens la prcfirent a celle de la
many prefer his flesii to that of chickenw.
lie lives in winter on groimd-mice, which
he has caught in the previous full, breaking
their legs first (a most usi'fid precaution,
to prevent their escape) and then fatten*
them up with care, for his daily use."
This, no doubt, is pushing to its extreme
limits the privilege of great travellers.
I, for one. will unhesitatingly claim tlie
right of accepting this " white bear story"
and owl anecdote, cum ^rann salis, or, as
the Frenchman says, sous benefice (Vint'en-
tairc. At page 16 of Charlevoix's Htsloin-
de la Noiivellc France, sve find something
else spicy. Everyone is aware of the popu-
lar tradition which goes to explain the un-
gainly appearance of the EsqiiitJKiux tribe,
viz., that the Esquimaux are the otr>priiig
of tsvo seals, who, having beconu tired of
the liquid element, resolved, like C ipt.iin
I Cuttle, to spend the remaiiuler of their
lives on shore, and in their old ago had
several children who iiad lost all taste lor
the sea, and became the ancestors of the
Esquiinaux. This is startling enough with
regard to our unctuous, oleaginous, and
aromatic brethren of the far North,
but the peculiar organization which Jac-
ques Cartier lends them is still more
worthy of note. Cartier was told by Dona-
cona that there existed in a distant land
(nothing like distance to lend enchant-
ment to objects), human beings who did
not eat, but lived by what they drank
(Neal Dow has discovered many such,
even in our own country) ; that in another
place the men had but one leg, a veiy
large one; one arm, witli two hands on it
— and a variety of other peculiarities of
lively interest to Profe-ssor Owen and
coinparative anatomy. But rez'enon^ a
nos moutons : tlie " storm of calm," as our
captain called the troubled state of the
waters without wind, lasted a few hours,
during all which the brightest of noonday
suns lit up the scene. The currents and
winds wat'ted us then higher up than Little
Fox River, and we anchored close to the
River Magdeleine. so famous for its wild
Poule . • . Sa provision pour I'liyvcr sont des
Mulots, auxquels il casse les pattes, et qu'il engraiss
et nourrit avec soin, jusqu' a ce qu'il ait en besoin."
(Lettre de Charlevoix a la Duchesse de Les Piguircs
721,)
3«
Trijlas from My Portfolio.
legends amongst the seafaring people a
Gasp^.
The " Br«eze " was riding at anchor in
the vicinity of the spot wliere the famous
Braillard de la Magdehine is heard dur-
ing the great storms which sweep the
coast.
Before setting fortii the version whicli an
old dame — a second Bessie Millie, and who
also possibly "helped out her subsistence
by selling favorable winds to mariners" —
gave us, on landing, I shall quote from
\.\\& Soirees CanadteH/ies (or Octobiir, iS6i,
the humorous description of the Braillard,
b) our late and lamented friend, the histo-
rian of Canada, Abbe Ferland.
" We are opposite the River Magdeleine, |
famous in the chronicles of the country i
for ghost stories connected -vith it.
' Where is the Canadian sailoi:, familiar >
with this coast, who lias not heard of the !
plaintive sounds and doleful cries uttered I
by lao Braillard dcla Magdeleine? \Vhere \
would you Mui.i native seaman who would I
consent to spend a few days by himself in |
tills locality, wherein a troubled spirit <
seeks to make known the torments it en- |
dures.' Is it the soul of a shipwrecked i
mariner askin^f for Christian burial for its j
bones, or imploring the prayers of the ,
Church for its repose? Is it "the voice of I
the murderer condemned to expiate his j
crime on the very spot which witnessed its i
commision.^ . ". For it is well known j
that Gaspd wreckers have not alwavs con- \
(ented themselves with robbery and (lillagc, '
l)ut have sometimes sought concealment j
;(nd impunity by making away with vie- '
(ims,- convinced that the tomb is silent I
and reveals not its secrets. Or else, is this i
(he celebrated Devil's Land mentioned by j
(he cosmographer Thevet. where, accord- \
ing to him, Roberval (in \-^\i) abandoned :
his niece, la Domoyselle M, rguerite with!
her loverand with her old Norman Duenna.
The ancient chronicler places this land i
somewhere in tlie Gult of the St. Lawrence, '
and relates that after the deatli of her two 1
compar.ions. the Lady Marguerite had to
contend with devils, wlio, under the dis-
t'jiise of white bears, tried to frighten her
with tiieir claws and their growls. On
this legendary topic, Thevet might have
found a match in one of our sailors, who
certainly knew naught ot the Lady
Marguerite, but was particularly well post-
ed in all matters referring to the Braillard
de la Magdeleine. He felt ill at ease in
this neighborhood and whistled for wind,
were it even contrary: anything to him
seemed prefeiable to remaining in the vici-
nity of the Braillard." i^Log of the schooner
Sarah, during her (i ip from Quebec to
Gaspe in 1836.)
On the other hand, the resident cicerone
thus held forth : "An awful shipwreck once
occurred at this place. A father and
mother, amongst crowds of others, here
found a watery grave. Their infant son,
by some miraculous interposition of his
guardian angel, wassaiely washed ashore."
Whether in this jase the guardian angel
assumed the form of a Newfoundland dog,
or the more orthodox appearance of a
winged cherub, tradition has failed to say.
"The darling boy was safely landed on
the pebbly beach, and soon made it vocal
with his grief and moans for the loss of
his best friends. His infant wailings,
bleniled with the swelling storm, struck
the ear of some belated ti>herman whose
boat was parsing the entrance o( the River
Magdeleine. Hence the name " Le Brail-
lard de la Mag leleine." The noise is still
heard in stormy w.iather, and may be ex-
plained either by the action of the surt roll-
ing into one of the many hollow caverns
along the Gasjxi coast, and vvhicli has as-
tonished all observers, or by shelving
rocks over which it moans like an unquiet
spirit. It would, howevei'. be doing an in-
justice to my venerable and pious cicerone,
were I to conceal the tact that she admitted,
albeit hesitatingly, that the moanings of
the ' Braillanl ' mi^ht be caused by the
action ot high winds on two large pines
which overhang a neighboring cape, and
whose trunks grate ominously on one
another. Alas I alas! for the marvellous!
The Abbe Casgrain tells a tale about the
Braillard des lies de la Magdeleine, in
which a bad priest became, through grief,
reduced to a skeleton, for having refused
to christen a child, who subsequently died
unbapti/.ed, and was heard to moan con-
stantly allerwards." Gentle reader, you
have your choice of these explanations.
Trifles from My Portfolio.
.^9
Chapter XIV.
i
THE LOWER ST. L.WVRENCE — RIMOf SK I— i
:\IETIS— M.\T.\XE.
Business liaving brought me recently
amongst the happy and prosperous pea- i
santry who inhabit the Lower St. Law- i
lence, a few rough notes on this locality ;
may not be unacceptable, especially at a i
time like the present, when the Intercolonial
Railway is being constructed. I may first i
premise that I am neitlier a railway con- i
structor. nor a railway engineer, nor a
holder of any lantl in the said locality; my
sole motive in penning these lines is to
call attention to the beauty and resources
of this fertile, healthy and picturesque
portion of the Dominion. Nor have I any j
hesitation in saying that ere longCacouna \
will be in agreat measure deserted, whenever i
a regular and daily intercourse is estab- j
lished between Q^iebec and these remote I
spots on the Lower St, Lawrence, scarcely
known at present. At a fare of two dollars
and a few hours of railroading you land
safely at Riviere-du-Loup, where a sub-
stantial first-class hotel is ready day and
night to receive you. The host's kindness
to travellers is proverbial, one is mostly
reminded of Shenstone's utterance :
"Wlio'or h;is travelled life's dull round
Where'er his staije.s may have lieen
May sigh to think he still has found
The warmest welcome ai an inn '
Such is Monsieur Larochelle's unremit-
ting attentions. Excellent stages are con-
stantly in waiting at the hotel door, and
those who like speed can count on reach-
ing Rimouski early the same day, provided
the\' select one of the spanking tandems
constantly on hand. The distance is sixty-
six miles; the scenery, especially that of
Bic, the mo5t mountainous and beautiful
on the whole south shore. Bic, with its
lofty crags, land-locked bays, and green
fields, reminds one of the Highlands of
Scotland.
Rimouski has become so populous, so
ambition.' of late, that steps have recently
been taken to have it incorporated as a
town. Tiie R. C. Cathedral, a noble Gothic
structure, cost $50,000; it has a Bishop —
Bishop Langevin, the brother of the respect"
^d Secretary of State — a convent — a college
for young men, numbering some 200 pupils
— a court house and jail — and some half
dozen resilient lawyers. The Goverment
wharf is about j,ioo feet long — one of those
solid structures on which the late Mr. Baby
left his mark. Tlie teU'graph wire runs
some thirty miles lower down to the point
of .Metis.
Rimouski itself is a ricli parish, dating
from 1 701, settled for some miles back, with
a fine river running through. The parishes
lower down than Rimouski, though much
more recently settled, arc progressing very
fast — the country merchants making little
fortunes' varying from $50,000 to $100,1x30 in
a few years,— such as Ste. Luce, ,Sle. Flavie,
Metis, Sandy Bay, Matane, &c. I knew
an auctioneer in Q^iebec who left the city
— some years back — not over-burthened
with the good things of this world; he is
now one of the "merchant princes" of
Matane, with some $So,ojcj to back him, a
nice house to live in, and an air of well-to-
do in all his liemeanor. The harvest has
been excellent this year, and it is not sur-
prising that the country merchants pros-
per, — they get as much as $1.10 a bushel
for their barley ; one has 8, ooobushels, an-
other 5,000, another 4, (xxj, and another,^, 000
for sale, and I wish I were permitted to
give names. Wheat has given good returns
also; some farmers, especially in the in-
terior, have from 500 to 1,000 bushels.
bo\vlin<^ green, on the edge of the roaring
St. Lawrence — so broad here that th*'
opposite shore cannot be seen. The back
^o Trifles from My Portfolio.
That portion of the population which | for more than forty miles, runs level like a
gave up their fishing pursuits for farming,
are thriving the most; some, however, still
stick to their boats and nets, and look after
codfish and herring instead of wheat and ground is diversified by hills, meadows,
barley. j rivers and valleys.
Some twenty years ago, the most flourish- { I shall retain a long time the vivid
ing settlement was a wilderness— Sandy ! impression which Metis made on me,
Bay : now it is inhabited to the Sixth Range I whilst travelling through it on the 15th
or Concession, and the cure has a res- j November last. It was the first winter
pectable rent-roll — as a rule a fair indica- 1 roads ; the weather was bright and frosty,
tion of the fertility of parishes. Some of the I Amidst the breaking of the surf on the
villages, like Ste. Luce. Ste. Flavie, Metis, j beach, the tinkle of our sleigh-bells was
Matane, are built on beautiful deep bays, ; i^carcely audible. Merrily we bowled along
in which a winding rivulet or rapid river | in the solemn silence of a Sabbath after-
discharges. On the majority of them, sub- j noon, to where duty called. On our right
stantial saw-mills, surrounded by bright ' stood the Kirk, lit up with the last rays of
pine and spruce deals, proclaim that Eng- ; the setting sun, whilst a bevy of rosy-
lish enterprise dwells therein. Echo still cheeked, youthful worshippers poured out
repeats the respected name of the "King of of its portals, homeward bound; and far
the Saguenay." Wm. Price, Esq. Most ' away in the blue east, a mere speck dancing
of these mills are managed by George on the bosom of the greatriver, a noble ship,
Sylvain, M. P. for Rimouski. the '• Xestorian," also homeward bound,
At Little Metis, a curious spectacle greets canying Lord Monck and his fortunes.
the eye — an entiie settlement of Scotchmen, One of those radiant sunsets with which
imported from the Land of Cakes some autumn occasionally consoles us for the loss
thirty years ago. by the Seigneur of Metis, of summer, was pouring on the waters
the late Mr. McXider. numbering about 100 westward its purple light, whilst a pair of
(':imilies. They have pushed their settle- hardy fishermen were striving, tugging
ment to the third Concession, and seem to lustily at their oars to make the entrance of
prosper. I was surprised to find they could j the bay. What a scene for an artist!
bupport two churches of the Protestant ' At Matane the traveller finds a comfort-
faith. Can it be possible that they vary able boarding-house, kept by a Scotchman
the duties of husbandry with a spice of named Grant, who speaks French and has
theological quarrels.' Ti -fiildren looked married a smart French-Canadian girl,
well clad, rosy and contei. I asked one The Matane river, a splendid salmon and
wee lassie, where she was bound for.' " To trout stream, washes the bank in frontof the
see my mither, ayount the hills"' she civilly house. The steamers "Gaspe" and "Secret"
replied, with charming simplicity. make Metis and Matane stopping-places
I hear they speak Gaelic in the settle- and there is little doubt that, in addition to
ment. No French-Canadians live there. ' the Montrealers who enjoyed sea-bathing at
Their lands are not as much mortgaged as Matane last summer, several Qiiebecers will
tl)0se of the French-Canadians, and thev 1 deviate from over-crowded, over-dressed
do not intermarry with them. I heard it | and noisy Cacouna, to try Gaspe and the
stated that though they belonged to a { lower parishes as bathing-places. One of
better class, and brought several agricul- the greatest boons to this portion of Canada
tural books and implements with them, \ is tlie opening up of the interior by colo-
they gradually fell back to the style of cul- j nization roads ; not those, of course, made
ture of the Canadian peasant. Some, 'tis ' mileby mile, such as had been previously the
said, have sold their farms and removed to ' case— so that the first mile was rendered
Greenbush, Wisconsin— 'tis a loss for ' impassable by the underbrush which in
Metis. As to scenery, nothing on the south ! couple of years springs up.
shore of the St. Lawrence ecjuals that of | The Tache road, when completed, will be
Bic, Matane, and Metis. The high road, | of immense service. It runs parallel to the
Trifles from My Portfolio.
41
St. Lawrence, about thirty miles inland
from Beauce to Rimous>ki and lower down,
and cross roads are being opened towards
it from each parish.
A wonderful change has come over the
Canadian peasantry since the construction
of the Grand Trunk Railwpy. Intercourse
with the cities and the United States — the
spread of education — colleges, court-houses,
convents, opened in all the large centres —
such is the spectacle which all through
greets the eye, even in the remote parishes.
I can assure you that I tried in vain to
see that " ruin and decay" of which our
croakers >im1 tault-finders are unceasingly
prating. I found the lower parishes
rapidly filling with an industrious and
prosperous population. No doubt when
the Intercolonial Railway and Lower Port
steamers open a constant communication
with the District of Rimouski, the march
of intellect and of progress will penetrate
still lower down.
PROFESSOR morse's GEUCiRAl'HY.
Just as I was returning from one of my
winter trips on the Lower St. Lawrence, of
which 1 have furnished some notes, my
little daughter, an elfish rogue of some ten
summers, who reads the newspapers, as all
progressive Canadian children do, gretted
me in the following words: "Papa, either
Professor Morse or you must be telling
stories in what you both have written. Just
read in my school Atlas the Professor's
account of the parishes lower than C^nebec :
" Below J:^nr/>rr, on the St. Lawrence, there
are few setllements except snuill fishing x'il-
lages." Some lines lurther, llie Professor
informs his readers that " Canada was Jirst
settled by French in 160S." This remarkable
work contains about one hundred plates
and letterpress, edited by Harper and
Bros., N.Y., and compiled by Sidney Morse,
A.M. In the preface, in large text, the
reader discovers above the Professor's signa-
ture that "the whole woik is the resul^
of long and careful study." The Yankee
savant has the hardihood, not to say the
ignorance, to lead one to expect merely a
few fishing villages in these populous 300
miles of country which line the St. Law-
rence from Qiiebec to Cape Chat ! How is
he bornt; out by facts and figures.' .Seven
flourishing counties, viz.. Levis, Bellechasse,
Montmagny, Islet, Kamouraska, Temis-
couata, Rimouski, comprise within their
limits the parishes spread over the
beautiful south shore valley of the St.
Lawrence, from Quebec to the County
of Gaspe. Rimouski alone one of, if not
the laigest county of the Dominion,
is one hundred and fifty miles in length. It
extends from Bic inclusive to Cape Chat,
and lower. Seventeen parishes,* of which
six or eight are on the banks of the river,
and the remainder in the interior, consti-
tute this fine county, together with seven
townships. t
We are safe in averaging fifteen parishes
to each county, which would give one
hundred and five parishes, each with a
spacious parish church (sometimes two),
school-houses, mayor and councillors, post-
ollice, iiic. Some, like Montmagny, the old
home of one of the A.D.Cs. to the Queen,
the late Sir E. 1\ Tache, since it became
the chef-lieu (ocunty towns), with resident
Judge, Court House, Jail, have sprang into
importance very rapidly. The same might
be said of Rimouski. In addition to the
Court House, Jail, and District Judge, thi^
locality supports a large college and con-
vent, under the spiritual cr re of the new
bishop, whose magnificent Gothic cathe.
dral merely requires an episcopal palace to
complete the see. The course taught at
Rimout-ki comprises a commercial course.
Belles Lettres, Pvhetoric, the Classics,
Natural and Moral Philosophy, Chemistry,
Malhomatics, Astronomy. In mentioning
colleges, one must not omit saying a word
of the beautilully located College of Ste.
Anne, County i,f Kamouraska. This noble
pile, built on the slope of the mountain,
covering several acres with its well-wooded
parks, gardens, chapels, museums, was
founded in 1S27, by an enlightened R. C.
priest, the Revd. Mr. Painchaud, of Crane
Island, a brother to the late Dr. Painchaud,
of Qiiebec. .Ste Anne College has an addi-
* St. Simon, St. Matliicu, St. Kabicn, St. Cecil
Bic, Town or St. Germain, Parish of St. Germain
St. Blandine, St. Anaclct, St. Donate, Ste. Line,
Ste. Flavie. Ste. Aiifjelc ilc .Merici, St. Octave
Metis, L'Assomplion, McN'iilcr, St. I liic.
t Township of Matane, St. Jerome de Matane, St
l''elicite, Townships of Cherbourg, Dulebert, Roniien
42
Trifles from My Portfolio.
sonal intercRtfor all the friends of agricul-
ture, as it gavi birth, under the superin-
intendence of the Revd. Mr. Pilote,
its Director, to the model farm and
agricultural course which has now been
flourishing there for several years. It does
one good to see carried out, year after year
under the eye of the professor, by sturdy
young Canadian lads, the system of rota-
tion crops, deep-ploughed, well subsoil-
drained fields, with no end of Berkshires,
Durhams, Ayrshires and Cotswolds in the
farmyard and stables. A semi-monthly
p.»pfr. in connection with agriculture,
// Echo des Campagnes, something like
the Toronto Farmer, has been in existence
there for some seven or eight years. May
it continue 'o prosper! Little remains for
me, after what I wrote previously, to add
respecting Rimouski.or rather the Town
of St. Germain, for suci» is the name fixed
on in its Act of Incorporation. I feel sorry,
however, to think of the old name Rimouski
— of Indian origin though it be — dropped
and forgotten : Rimouski, which in former
years so nobly responded to the call of the
venerable Robt. Rnldwin, left out in tiie
cold by his Upper Canada constituents.
Rimouski, by its progressive character,
wealth and extent, was, indeed worthy of
the honor of restoring to public life and
usefulness the father of Constitutional
Government in Upper Canada. The county
also was, lor many years, represented in
Parliament by one oi its ablest sons, Dr.
Chas. Titch^, Djputy Minister of Agricul-
ture.
An additional wing to the government ,
wharf at Rimouski, on which lar^'e steam-
ers might land at all hours of the tide, such
as the "Secret" and "(ieorgia" together with
the completion of the Intercolonial Rail
way, whose line nearly skirts the shore, is
wanted. These two things effected, Rimou-
ski will, no doubt, in a very few years, double
its wealth and resources.
I presume Professor Morse's "few fishing
villages" have been suHiciently disposed of.
As to hib grave assertion of Canada having
been first settled by the French in 1608, I
would recommend the Professor to read up
a little more; he may then get more accu-
rate knowledge for his next edition. One
reason induces me to attach to his state-
ments more importance than one does ot
those of several recent tourists. There is a
class of itinerant libellers and penny-a-
liners, who come amongst us in quest of
sensational anecdotes and spicy discoveries.
One of the fraternity, a sixteen-tumbler
man, had not long since to apologize over
his signature, in order to escape the horse-
whip, for some printed libel perpetrated on
ex-Councillor Kirwin; another saw recently
in our market places " old dames in white
caps and wooden shoes, selling apples and
plums," and made the extraordinary dis-
covery that carters, as a class, were noisy;
others, again, make no hesitation in com-
mitting in our midst literary piracy on
the grandest scale. This literary banditti,
however, with all its mean lies and shanie-
lessness, cannot do near so much harm as
a grave book circulated in our schools,
which are misled by the high-sounding
titles A. M. and F. R. S., &c. This is
why I should wish our own Educational
Bureau would publish and offer for sale,
at reasonable prices, correct geographies
of America. Our children would escape
being victimized by men like Professor
Morse ! More anon.