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1 2 3

'■-■.-w»'/n3^-f^^^'iWK''e. "*T'?:

^:i

A PERSONAL NARRATIVE

OF THE DISCOVEEY OF THE

NORTH-WEST PASSAGE;

WITH NUMKIIOUS

TNCIDKNTS OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE

BUIUNG KEARLY FIVE YEARs' COyTINlIOIiS SEHVICE IN THE ABCTIC KEQIONS
WHILE iN SEARCH OP THE

EXPEDITION UNDER Sill JOHN i'EANKLlN.

'■4

r 1

BY ALEX. ARMSTRONG, M.D., R.N.

FELIXIW OF THE ROYAL GEOGKAFIIICAL SOCIEl -
LATE 81JKGE0H AND NATURALIST OF H.M.S. 'INVESTIGATOR.

rUBUSHED WITH THE SANCTION OF
THE IJOUDS COMMISSIONEUS OF THE ADMIRALTY.

LONDON:
IIUUST AND HLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,

SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN.

13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1857.

Thf right of Translation is rrvireff.

,. ■Jl!j%5^^£i'i'^'^>^'S*iT«iJ^***'S'

QtMi^. iS^o C7

'Vn[;;*1 }•*!■; l.lUlli?^ftK-*if.

_ /^^ •

LONDON ; •

Printed IpiiilMhii— i fli i m. Pi

I'lliLD MARSHAL
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, K.G.

*c., &c., Ac.
THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARK,

. WITH ma ohacious permission ok
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS.

MObT RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,

IN ADMIRATION OF

"IS DISTINGUISHED TALENTS AND VIRTUES,

AND OF

TUB POSTERING PATRONAGE

UK HAS EVER EXTENDED TO

SCIENCE, LITERATURE AND ART,

AS WELL AS

IN OIUTEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT

OF MANY ACTS OF CONDESCENSION AND KINDNESS

RECEIVED AT TUE HANDS OF HIS ROYAL IIIGHNESS,

WHEN FOHMBHLY SERVING IN

HER majesty's YACHT, *

HIS ROYAL UIGHNESS'S

MOST OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT,

THE AUTHOR.

r tt K F A C E.

The delay which has arisen in the publication of
this Narrative, has proceeded from circumstances over
which I had no control.

On my return, from Arctic Service, at the close
of 1854, my health was so much shattered, that I
was unable to undertake any literary labour. Early
111 the following year, as soon as it was recruited,
the exigencies of the war in which this country was
tlien engaged, called me again into active service.
After taking part in the Baltic campaign, the ship
to wliich I belonged was ordered to the West Indies,
from whence I have but lately returned, and until
very recently have been unable to devote any time
to authorship. I still hope, however, that a faithful
Personal Narrative of .the circumstances attending
this memorable voyage, may not prove uninteresting.
It possesses the advantage of having been compiled
from a Journal in which I daily noted events precisely
as they occurred, and now pubhsh at the request
of my former shipmates.

My principal object in writing this Work, has been
to do justice to every one engaged in a voyage which.

I'UKFAC'K.

for its (Inmtion nntl privntions, is, I !)cHovc, un-
pnnillcled in Maritime annals; and to place l)efon;
the world an accurate account of deeds, which, for
heroism, devotion, and endurance, liave never been
surpassed ; feeling assured that all employed in this
Expedition arc entitled to the admiration and the
gnititude of their country. Agreeable as this duty
has been to me, it has not been without its alloy.
I have f-jlt that I could not, consistently with the
imj)artial discharge of my duty as the; Historian
of the North-West Passage, record some of the
events, without giving them what I know to be
both a just, and an honest criticism. That wt;
conuuitted errors in our voyage, it is vain to deny ;
and, unpleasant as it has been to me to point them
out, I should consider myself unworthy the title I
have assumed, had I shrunk from doing so. I trust,
however, my remiirks will be received in the spirit
which induced me. to make them, and that others
may avoid the errors wc committed, shoidd they
ever be engaged on a similar service.

It has been stated that our Discovery of the Pas-
sage was secondary to that of Sir John Franklin's
Expedition, This, in the present state of o\ir know-
ledge regarding the fate of that Expedition, 1 cannot
admit. I should feel happy, not only to concede the
point, but to announce it, in my reverence for
the memory of such a brave and intrepid band,
could I be convinced any prwf existed oi'

PRErACK.

vii

their having reached the Coast of America in the
summer of 1850. That they did reach this Coast, I .
freely admit, and, assuming tliat they did so by Peel
Sound— thereby establishing the existence of a Passage
in that direction— there is no evidence which can pos-
sibly be rehed on, that it mxs prior to the period of
our Discovery, (October, lb50). In the absence of
this proof, therefore, I must reserve for H.M.S.
' Investigator ' the priority of the (fiscovery. But shouhl
the fact be ascertained to the contrary, I shall be
the first to acknowledge it, with undying admiration
for those who sacrificed their lives in its attainment.

I have to regret that the department of Natural
History, in connection with our voyage, is not so full
or satisfactory as I could have wished, from the fact
of my entire collection having been left in the ship,
nmch to my regret, on her abandonment. I have,
however, endeavoured to supply the deficiency, as far
as lay in my power, from my notes.

I am indebted to Dr. J D. Hooker, F.R.S., of
Kew, for the information, liit he had described and
published an account of the plants collected by my
late friend, Robert Anderson, Esq., Surgeon of
H.M.S. 'Enterprize,' (by whose death the Navy lost
one of its ablest and most accomplished Medical,
Officers). As these specimens were obtained on the
same lands as my own, and as they are identical
with them, I have placed a list of them in the
Appendix.

VIII

niKKACK.

To Will. M. Ui(v. Ks(|., ol" VV(X)lwicli DiM^kymd, I
am gn;atly indebted lor Imving ol)li<,nn{T|y t'liriiished
me with beaut ifully-executed drawings illustrative of
the plan by whieli tlic • Investigator ' was streiigtli-
eiied for the ice, and warmed by means of Sylvester's
Heating Apparatus, together with two valuable Papers
on the subject :— that on the Warming Apparatus
was compiled by S. Kgan Itosser, Ksq., C.E. I
regret, however, that the drawings came too late to
be at present available. The Papers will be found in
the Ap|)cndix.

I beg to express my grateful acknowledgments to
Sir James (Uark, JJart., IMiysician to Her Majesty the
Queen, for the personal kindness and valuable advice
and assistance I have received from him in connec-
tion with this Work.

From Dr. M'Cormick, R.N. I received a very in-
tcrcsting account of the (ieology of Kerguelen's Land,
and for which I beg to return my sincere thanks.

To Alex. Carte, Ksfj., of the Royal Dublin Society,
Captjiin Wjishington, Hydrogmpher of the Admiralty,
John IJarrow, Ks.j., F.U.S., Richard King, Esq., M.l).,
and other kind friends, my best thanks are due, for
their handsome otters of jussistancc when preparing
this Narrative for the Press.

Luiidoii, Murch, |H.'>7,

CONTENTS

CFIAPTEII I.

I).>pnrturc from Englan.l-Weathcr-First Disaster at Soa-Onr Crew
-Heavy Oalc-Sh.p Lviaky-Hcsults-Part Company with our
Consort-Change of Weather-Means adopt.-.! for dr/ins Ship-
Cause of Lcakage-lksults of our llasiy Departure frL Wland

-cZd^r'sT;? "'" ['•« T^rV'^emperat'ure of Air audXk,
—Crowded btate and Results— Even mm in the TroDi(!s— Thn

— Stomiy Petrel- 1 am and Incidents-Thunder-Porpoises—
Bathmp-Strange Sail-Cross the Equator-Ships-Thd? Susni-

-WeatC""AirT*'"''" jhe 'lWs-Te,nperate Zone-Suns^et
-Weather-Albatross and other Birds-Character of Winds on
either 8i.ie of Equator- Diseolouration of Water-South-west Gale
-lucuients-South America-Moth, Flight and Capture-Chanuc

ings—Hiids— Double Pay comnienc-cs— Lai.d-Cupe Viririns—
Waiter Straits of Magellau-Guauaeos-Patagoniu Ll Terra del
Fuego-Appcaranccs of J^ind-Meet H.M.S' Gorgon '-Another
u'rr'"^n ■'' p'^'r%.*^' ' Enterprise '-Taken in Tow-Sight I
vtv C"'f -I'-'H-onians-Fuegiau Coast-Ten.peraturc
J..rt I-amine-Altered Aspect of Laud-Eortescuc Bay-Meet
r Consort anil Incidents. . , "' j_29

our

ClIAFrEK 11.

Preparations for leaving the Strait-Medical Survey-Specimens ob-
aintd-Departure-Aspect of the Land-Fuegian^Tlieir Ap.
|.earanee &c -Enter tte Pacitic-Weather-Towinc-Part ooni-
E.S 7f''^'T ' ^i'^^'Son '-Heavy Gale, driven to the
Latitude of Cape H..rn-State of Ship-A Spar seeu-Damagc
sustained-Disaster-Loss of Masts-Sdan overboard-Whales-

r I """"'o*' „• """ Aeniperature ol Water- Loss of Bread from
Leakage-Ketlectious on the Voyagc-Tropio Birds-Enter the

S '7 "'^'w-^'f'%'^^'" "w»'^'-"«-i''-ogress-Cross the Equator

Kam-lrade Wiuds-leniHiiature of Air aad Water-Sight of

.iU.d-M„„a Koa, Us height, app.a.an.r, and ci.anicto,-Kt"-Iings

on seeing it - Islands of Mowec and Morotoi— Appeatuncca— Bliu.)

CONTKNTS.

— Ofthii— Hyiri},' Fish— Arrival of rilot-IiitelliRpncc of onr Con-
sort— Anrlinr ill the Kojids — II.M.a. 'Swiff— Appearance and
Character of Islami— Kntrnnce to Harbour— Prenurat ions for Sea

— Honolulu, Govrmmeiit, *c. — Missionaries— Their Laws and
Innuonce— Protectorate of Great Britain— Commerce— Supply and
Demand for all Articles— Houses, Natives, Appearance, Dress, and
tharacter— Laws existing— Incidents attcndjig Excursions— Cha-
racter and Appearance of the Island— U'^eud of its Conquest—
--Our Crew— Arrival of 'Cockatrice'— Letters and Despatches
from hhgland— Conipiction of Work— Senior Officer's intentions
— Jbffect protluccd— Climate of Islands. . . 31—60

CriAPTEU III.

Departure from Honolulu— Completion (.f Stores and Provisions and
facilities u(rur|led— Orders of Captain Collinsou— His intended
Koute— \ aluable Intelligence received respecting the Winds-
Adoption of It iiud Success which followed— Incidents and Events
— hhter the Tempemle Zone— Progress and Soundings— Currents

- Change of Temj)eraturc— Pass the Aleutian Islands, and enter
tlic Kainlsehatka Sea--Sca Birds— First Seal seeii— Gore's Island
Currents and Temperature— Difficulties of Navigation— Weather
—King's Island— hvoundinp— Pass Lk-hring's Strait- Cross the
Arctic Circle— Incidents— Whales— Temperature of Air and Water
—Steer for Cape Lisburne— Issue Warm Clothing— Meet the

Hover —Lnfavourablc Ileport of the Ice— Incidents— Crow's
Nest- Capo Lisburne— Birds and Drift-wood— H.M.S. 'Herald'
--Non-arrival of ' Kiiter|,rise '—Determination to cuter the Ice
alone-Aspeet of the Cupe— ()bj,.cl of Visiting it— Signal from
. ii^'""'' I > ." '■"•'^"''^ I'oaition of • Kiitcrprise'— Part company with

llenU.l —Admiralty Oulers to keen Coiimauv- Proceed to the
Nurlh—Keflect ions— Value of Two Ships in Polar N avigation—
Ueather— Sunset. ... CI— SO

CIIAITEU IV.

Eater the Ice— Its Appeinince-Walruses— Progress and Incidents—
—Currents— Temperature— Approach the Land -Meet 'Plover'
—Esquimaux (Jrnves— Point Burrow rounded — Position and Ai.-
|>earaiice of lee-Tides and Currents— Aspect of Ice— \n Icy
Scene— Cruising in the Pack-Difficulties and Incidents- Kegain
the Coast— Its Difficulties luid Dangers- Boats towing— Encoun-
ters with the Ice— Heneetions— Ice and Water— diaracter of
former— Sunset over lee— Point Drew— First Interview with Es-
quiiiiaux-Their Visit to the Ship— Incidents— Barter— Women—
Bo:its-Ineideiitsand Character of Esquimaux— Visits from severai
Iribes— Aporoach Point Pitt — Unding— Deposit a Record—
Alounds-Shij) gnninded— Difficulties of our position-Colville
Kiver- Jones Islands- Visit to them-KMpiimaux— Interview-
Incidents— Thieving, and Visit to the Ship Means mhipted for
recording our Visit— Progress— Temperature of Air and Water.

M— 112

CONTENTS.

Gl— SO

CHAPTER V.

DiUiculties in working to the Norfh-East— Ship secured to Floc-Ice—
Archery— Cast off from Floe— Progress iiml Incidents— An Island
(hscovered— romt Anxiety— Critical Position— Our Difficulties-
Shin on Shore— Means adopted in consequence — Results — Again
under Sail and Incidents— Boat capsizes— Los«i of 33441bs. of Mf>at
—Weather— An Ice Scene— The Pack— Our Position and State
of the Ice— The Resolution adopted— Fail in effecting our Escape
—A Thunder Storm— Rain and liesults— Endeavour to regain the
Mainland— Towing— Incidents— The Ice— Its Difficulties— Opera-
tions-Success attending tlieni— Ship secured to Ice— Appearance
—An Ice Scene— The ^ew Island— Its Features and Character-
— Inndents and Observations— A H- r Track— Whales' Skulls—
Shij), her Appearance- Wcalhcr- ( off from Floe— The Ice—
Its Aspect— Heflcctions— Incidents— I'rogress, Brighter Prospects
and Better Results— Hopes of reachina: Banks' Land— Reflections
-Appearance ot Ice-Open Y/ater-Course to the Northward
arrcsted-Soundings-Position-Thc Pack -Alter Course-Wea-
ther-Make the Land- lowing- Results of running into Pack-
-hohtudc of our Position-Staud in for the Land-Tidal Linc-
f W"'-"-— Alluvial Reposition and Results— Islands-Weather
and DiHculties ol Navigation-' Plover's' Boats -Mackenzie
Hiver — Remarks . , _ ij^o jty

CHAPTER VI.

Weal hor-Point Warrcii-Esr,uiinaux-Tlieir Encampnient-Appear-

aiK-cof a Kur..p..au--L.iuliug on the Beach-A Grave-Ilustilo

kccption h.y the N at ives-lucidcnts— Peace established-Tlie

Vyornen-Sick Man ami lueideiUs- Aupeaianceof the Men— Their

liul— (,oii>teriiation prmlueed by the St.ip- Rosults-Flight of the

lribe-lnt.Teuur.-,e with the Iiulians- Fire Water- Discovery of

a Button and Results- Report ed Murder of a European ami a

larty on t lie Coast— Boats seen— Appearance of their Iluts-
— llicir liit(>ri(ir — Pi-iwimiU l>.'.^.>;o: t .»

-Their I nterior — Presents
for the Shiii — Arrive on Boar

— Provisions — Language — D<:j)artur(
lil— Remain oif the Point— Reland-

-•••I- "•'•■-""/'"'""— "i;"Huu ou me roini— itelancl—
-Nareii lor tiie Hut— Results— Construction of Huts— Incidents
--•Return on Board— Progress— Observations Harrowby Bay-
Lund ai, Point Maitland-Ueposit a Record— Incidents— ApiKar-
aueeot Laud-^atives- Visit to the Shore and incidents attendiu-'
It— Return to the Ship— Baillie Islands— Birds . 15S— IGU

(CHAPTER VII.

Weather— Revisit the Shore— lucidcuts— The Coast— Cape Bathurst—
Kneaiiipmeiit— Liuid on liie Isthmus- Advance to hncampmcnt—
hMpiimaiix— interview .ml Ineich'iits -Tluir Hostile Aspect—
Altcied Demeauoui— Appearance of Men and W omen— incidents

XII CONTENTS.

Fire Water— l?ftrter—l)fspntclios—Nej,'(ttijaiou for their traiisiiiis-
sion— IkHurn to tlui Jkwl— Proscnta to tlic Natives— A Gun— A
Thief— Their Rude Behaviour— War Whoop— UiHicultv in chuir-

_iiou( Aground— -Ksquiiimux Ka-
I attendiiiif

, - — •- V..C Eiicnmp-

-Ucpjirture from Biullic's Islands— Visits from Esquimaux
and Incidents— Their Account of other Expeditions— A Visit— Ex-
pectation of a Ship w ith Presents— Their Departure from the Shin
—Esquimaux, thcjr liabits, Manners, and Customs. 170—11)0

inp the Hoat— licavc the Shore — lioat ..e-v,......— .,cnmiiinn

yaks— Their Wea|M)iis— Mode of using them— Incidents att(
our Ilchim— Their Visit to the Ship— Invitation to the Er
ment— Departure from Baillic's Islands— Visits from Esnu

cHAFrEK vm.

Departure from Cape Bathurst— Aurora Borealis— Ice— Currents-
Franklin Bay— Rain— River Ilorton— Aspect of Land— A Bear-
Refraction— Strange Ap|K;aranccs on Shore— Report of the Ice
Mate— The Ice— A Boat dcsi)atchi'd to the Shore— Whales and
Seals- Cause of Strange Appearances — Volcjioio Mounds — Wea-
ther-Difficulties — Character of Coast— Incident on IJoard— The
Evening— Ship Besets— Cajic Parry- Land discovered to the N.E.

— Opinions — Position at Evening— Sunset — Aspect at Morning

Possession of liand— Name Ixistowed- Its Character and Incidents

— Ap|>cara«cc of llwidhmd and Coast — Birds seen — Progress

Incidents— Siia|)c a Course to North-Fast— Weather— Difficulties
—Sight of Laud— Ilo))cs and Coniectures— Currents— Tempera-
ture — Discovery of Prince AllMirfs Land— Discoverv of Islands

Ap|H-aranc« of Sea— Position— Weather — Siiip ik'set— Gloomy
Evening— Occupation— Change of Prospects— Attempt to force a
Passage and Failure— Position— Amusements— Altered Aspect of
Ice— Secure to Ground Ice— Sudden Departure — Difficulties-
lairds. ..... 200—228

ClIAFrER l.\.

Young Ice— Its Formation — Our Position— Barrow's Strait— Opinions
resjM'ctiiig the Exi.stcnce of a Passage— Drifting in the PacK— In-
cidents and Dimgcrs— Etjuinootial Gales— Critical Position of the
Ship— Increa-siiig Dangers— Preparations to meet Casualties — As-
pect of ice-Pressurt."— Continue drifting — Arrangements for aban-
doning Ship — Assault of the Ice — Hawsers and Life-buoy carried
away— Abatement of the Gale— Cliangc of Weather— Temp<'rature
—Position — Collisions — Ap|)roaeh Princess Royal I.-«lands— Cri-
tical Position— t^cape— Conclusions arrived at -^ Last Day of Sc-p-
teinher— Preparations for Wintering— I'arhdion and Parusellenu;-
—Birds— FJirly Days of October and Occupation— Ice in Motion
—Heavy Pressure— .Alteration in Appearance of Ice— Experiments
with Gun|)owdcr in bliisling- Aurora Morealis— Coniph;titm of
Winter I'npanitions- Daily Routine and Exercise- Ice in Motion
— Its AsiK.ct— Retlectious — Weather. , . 2liy— 248

rONTKNTS.

XIII

CriAPTER X.

Ap,,oun.nctt of Wcftthcr-Dcparturo from the Ship-Journey across the
Ice-lleiich W Albert's I^ud-Takc Formal Possession of it
m the Queens Name-Ascend the Mountain-Incidcnts-Appear-
!!"k .K w'**'"'^ I'^c-Our View from its Snmmit-Existence of
. North- West Passage established — Descent — Refreshment —
.louruejr across the Ice arrested-Critical Position— A Night's Ad-

r""V""^r ."•'"'n'^Tr^T^'*' "f Uelief-Iletum on Board-Ilal-
kctt 8 Boats-Results of the Day-Celebration of taking Posses-
sion of Prince Albert's Land-Ship Stationary and Position-
reparations for a Journey to the Northward- Visit Princess
Koyal Islands and take Possession-Appearance of Ice gmnnded-
Cieological Character of Islands. . . * 249—270

CHAl^ER XI.

Departure of the TravelUng Party-Passage over Rough Ice-Fatigue
c.yr^''Ti^*^^<'»»^ Return— Accident to Sledge— Despatch
a Sledge and Party— A Shooting Partv-Five Musk Oxen killed
—Measures adopted— Animals brought on Board— Quantity of
Meat obtained-ketum of Captain McClure-Connrmltion of the
Previous Discovery of the North- West Passage-View from Mount
Ubscrvation— Parry and Richardson— Pomts Peel and Russell—
Homeward Journey- A Night on the Ice-Reception of the Party
—Difliculties and Hardships of the Journey— Food consumed—
I emmi^ and Oatmeal— Housing in— Ventilation and Warming
Miip— liiarly Days of November— Occupations of the Men— De-
parture of the Sun— Aspect of Winter— Weather— December— A
n"'^ p.V°*T^''*' Solstice-Christmas- A Seal-Weather-Laat
Day of the Year. ... 271—294

CHAPTER XII.

The t'irst Day of 1851-Our Health and Efficiency-Inspection of Crevr
— lUickness of Ice— Reindeer seen and pureued— Temperature of
lu ., "", 'r'^^"™ °^ ^^^ Riivcn- Re-appearance of the Sun— A
VU.Ifand Incidents— Effects of Sun's Rays on Ice— First Spriiiff
Operations— A Fox— A Hare killed— A Bear seen and pursuit—
V isit to the Western Land— J?ariiig Island and Incidents— Ap-
pearance of Land— Removal of Snow Embankment— Temperature
ol the Month— Survey of Provisions— Sudden Rise of Temperature
— 1 reimrations for 'iVavelling— Despatch of Searching Parties—
Ihcir Direction— ImjKirtance of Visiting Melville Island— Captain
Austin s Expedition— Pursuit of a Bear— Snow Bunting— A Seal
kileil— Report of Game on the Land— Return of Mr. Wynuiatt
aiui his subsequent departure— Shooting Parties— An Incidfcnt of
^|M)r^— Success in the Chase— A Bear shot-Incidents and Events.

296—325

XIV

CONTENTS.

c:iAITKIl Xlll.

Au Unexpected Arrival— Casualties— llesults of the Journey— A Bear
killed— St^lu^'^! Discovery- Despatch of a Party— Queen's Birth-
day— Klucidation of a Mystery- (lulls— A Bear— Discovery of
Cam] Formation- Iletiiru of Travollin-? Party and Incidents— Es-
(|nunaux— A Visit to them— Deer— Uaiu— Ducks— Kctum of
(^aptflin McClurc— Results of Travelling— Intelligence received
from Esquimaux— Incidents— Frosl-Bite— Bears— Ikturn of Mr.
Wynniatt's Party— Results— Necessity of ComDincd Action— Cha-
nicter of Land— Incidents- Return' of Lieutenant CressweU's
Party— Progress of Thaw— SUtc of the Ice— Temperature and
Weather. ..... 320—350

CHAITEK XIV.

SUle of the Icc—Mosquitocs— Water— Ship Liljerated- Incidents-
Drifting— 'Hie Islands— Our Floe— Make Sail— Position and Dif-
ficulties— Critical Situation of Shi|) — Reach Point Armstrong—
Reindeer— Drifting to the Northward— Ellccts of Gunpowder on
Ici— Point La.ly Ross— A Fox— Musk Oxen— Weather and Tem-
|>erature— August— Iiicidenls-Ilain — Drifting — Currents — As-
pect to the Northuird— Position on the lOth— Sujjposed Appear-
ance of I^ind— OiH;n Water— Make Sail— Fog— Its Difficulties-
Ship Aground— Iler Safety— Strange Coincidouce— Aspect of the
rx)ast— Conical Hills— Their Formation— Blasting with Gun-
powder— Its Etrects—Weather— State of the Ice to the North-
ward—Run off Shore to South-West— Spanker Boom carried
away— A Gale— Drifting— Unpleasant Position and Prospects.

351— 37t
CUAPrKR XV.

Dcjtarturc from Prince of Wales' Strait -Chances of passing through it
— (^urse to the S<juthward— Itound Nelson's Head— Course to
the Northward -Cliaracter of Coast -Islands discovered and In-
cidents Alltsr Course to E.N.E. -Prospects -Land and Ice-
Progress arrested —Dangerous Position— Aspect of Land -Disco-
very of W<mxI Hills -Recent and Fossilized Wood -Its Character
Pitrifactions Presence of Iron and Sulphur Woody Stratifi-
cation - Barn and Wood disctjvered in other localities Geological
Causes (Jriginal Character of the Land Inferences deduced from
the Discovery -Critical Position of the Ship -A Bear Shot-
Habits of these Animals Esquimaux Mode of killing them.

376—411

CHAin'ER XVI.

Weather and Prospects - I.rfikes- Fish A Musk-Ox Hunt and Inci-
dents -State of the Ice -Traces of Esquimaux- The iJOth of
August I'erilous Position and Miraculous Escape Incidents -
Position on the 3Utli Bhistin^' Ice Preparations for Winter —
Collecting Ballast -A Jerfalcon shot Black Fox seen Bears -
State of the Ice— Sudden Disruption -Drifted ofT from the Shore

CONTENTS.

tTpI^ ?, . ^ "^'^-Op^'rat'ons for our RcInase-BlastinR-Cri.
fical Stuatum Our Kscapc Hcach the Shore -SlSsafdv
agaiu thrc..ene(l- State of Ice -Opcratiot.s by Bli«t rand Rc^
8ult8-0,.cnUater- Incidents State of Ice. fl2--r3G

(.'IIAPTIOR XVII.

Weather- Favourable State of tlie lee and Water - Preparations to

.start An Opportunity lost and l^esults-DeparturSn tKlJe

-J'rogress an.i Retrcat-Currcnts-lce in Motion Citkrairo

s.t.(m Pressure-- Its Ktr-.cts -Point Colquhoun-ProJ ess and

Meidents on the 20th- Drifting -Perilous^ I)ri»ting-Cane W?ot

te8ley--PosU.on-Oapc Austin-^- l)iffieulti,.s---Ship"secured^^^^^^^^
Croz.er~Prospeets~(ieoiogical Character of CoaSt-In cLces-

iSf Te,S r" 7 1 ''f^ ^o-^t^Progress on the 23rdllnei-
(icnis-- Weather -An Ice Barrier- Our Passace through it— As
pcct of Lycnmg-Ship on Shore -Mcasues !dopted-f^^^^^
cess-Fortunate Escape - The Night. . ^ . 437L4G0

CHAPTER XVIII.

^'''' mL? ^?'' ^'rP'^^er-Kesolution adopted-Enter the Bay of
Paek'";;^^';'" '^"l?^ so-leasons advanced tor entering 'the
l^ick-Heflections— Results of our Voyage— A Second North
West Passp^ discovercd-Dismantle Shi|,_State oTthe Ie[^"
Reduction of Provisions-Observations on Polar Dict-Nreessity
o largo allowance of Food-State of the Ship-Cold between
Decks-Party despatched to the North and their return-State of
Ice-Large Expanse ot Water seen-Our inability to enter it-
Pleasing Intelligence-First Reindeer killed-Evidence Sf Gme
on the Land-Remarks on Iteindeer . mZ^si

CHAFIER XIX.

The Hunting-Incidents of Sport-Wolves-A Night Adventure-
KoT," i ' ''"?"'^' J^'^'-V^-P'-^duce of the Chtse-Its Saluta^
EjUcts- Inspection of the Crew-Weathcr-Lightning-Change
of enipeiature-peparture of the Sun -Winter PreSirations-
Uccupatious --Arctic Currency-Barometric Changes-Veather-
Deccml)er Gale Christmas Day • . 483—495

CHAPTER XX

First day of 1862- Health of the Crew-Appearauce of Reindeer-
Oue kiUed-An Incident of Snort and Results-Return of the
Lned Th ir T"^ invents- Absence of three Men-Fears entcr-
iw£^- '« '■•f""'T^''°'^'^'" Hunting-Its Hardships and
Difficulties-Samtary State in April-Acfventure with Wolves-
Departure of a Party for Melyillelsland-Incidents-AppearSce
of Scurvy--- Weather-Return of the Party-Their Journey and
Results Oisappomtinent-State of the Ice-State of the Men
on their Return -^Weather-Results of the Hunting-Appearance
of bnow-Geese-Othor Birds-Order of their Arrival ind De-
P''""'"'^ • • . . . 496—522

XVI

rONTKNTS.

CnAPTER XXI.

I^bonjiis Occntrntion of the Crew Its Effects -Thickness of Ice—
Hirds- \V<.lvosnn(1 Keindeer -Incidents of Siwrt lled-thnmted
niver-Stiite of the Ice and Weather -Health of tiio Crew-
General Appearance of Scurvy - Recommendations made to prevent
It 1 leasuiR lutellijfcnce - Two Musk Oxen killed and Incidents-
(ircat Northern Diver shot Bears Presenec of Hirds Ice
reported in Motion Seals killed -Open Water seen to the North-
ward -Sorrel and Scurvy Grass— Their Effects State of Ice-
Mercy Bay-Its Aspect - Young Ice formed - Ship Frozen in-
Glooiny Prosneets-Further reduction of Provisions -Plan pro-
posed for almndoning the Ship-Results likely to follow its
adoj.Uon-Our Ncct^ssities Cold and Hunger -Its Effects and
Inadcnts— Hunting, its DifBeulties Close of the Year. 523— r.SjJ

CIIAIIER XXIi.

The Year 1S53 --Intensity of the Cold in early months -State of things
°'\ ™i, ,^^aPR«^'"a"ce of the -Sun -Preparation for Travelling
-I wo Wolves shot and Incident -Hares and Lemmings- Their
IlabiU-larty told off -Opinions of their litness- Increase of
Tr J°' F."'''^''?. ^^' Effccts-Tho Sick List-The First-
I)ca h on lk)ard- Unexpected Arrival of Lieutenant Pim-Joyful
Intelligence of Relief -ilffcct produced -Refleetions-A Funeral
-State of our Crew -Two Deaths occurred -Want of Remedies
-Kctum of Lieutenaut Pirn -His kindness to U5 Captain
McClure proceeds to Melville Island -Departure of one-half of
the Crew -Return of Captain McClure~R«..uit8 of Journev-
-7*' ? "« ^''^" o» *rrivine at MeWilie Island-A Suircy
ordered on lioard • Investigator^-Rciuits -Ship to be abandoned
.1 reparations- Depot formed- Abandonment of the 'Inves-
tigator Journey to Melville Island-Its Difficulties- Incidents
-HJur Amval on lk)ard the ' Resolute * and Incidents. 553-582

CHAITEU XXIU.

The

sil^!! P^- c''^"**, |X'mved--Improvement in Health-
Tu^\r 'r ^'"^'" "'^.V'" ^'f ^''^'^^ "'T »''« I^»"«J Jleleasc
\ViM<.n ''V "n"^'.v^''''''>""*'^ '" -^»"»K Ice -Drifting-
U .. Quarters Our Disappointment Death ol Mr. Sainsbury

of t ofifrv ^''r }^'?K ^'"^ ^'^^ ^^5* Commencement
St' \«^„of Arctic Service Departure of our Crew to
Ikedicy Island Mode of Travelling and fncideuts of the JourncJ
s7ir^ n Ik >'n'l.^^*' Spruig- Arrival on Board H.M.S. ' North
ami mS ^V^ t'*'°T ^*"'»^" Abandonment of 'Resolute'
tn .K. I *'"!• 7"*?"T"^.'**^''^'^'^ of 'Enterprise '--A Visit
Wid. r" ff^"'. ^^^' '!? ^'"*^'' «'"= *«• f«»»'l Inference,
/Trrivl n " ^,'^""''""'«ent of ' Assistance ' and • Pioneer ' -

Fnla, V '■''*'^^*^' '"''" '^"'^*'^ Island -Incidents -Arrival in
''"°""^'* • • • . . 583-596

Al'PEKDlX

. 697 file

-554

■■■■■■■I

'i!

jJC

INTRODUCTION.

It 18 not my intention, nor, indeed, do I consider
It necessaiy, to offer any remarks on the Progress of
Arctic Exploration and Discovery, in which this Coun-
try has at various times been engaged, during a
period of three hundred years, in endeavouring to
discover a Passage between the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans, which, until 1850, had been sought in vain
History has already done justice to the great and
persevering efforts of the earlier Arctic Navigators •
ami the deeds of daring, skill, and enterprize whicli
characterized the more recent Expeditions, are yet
too fresh in the memory of the Nation to call for any
observation here. They must ever remain an im-
perishable record of the prowess and energy of British
seamen and marines. It must not, however, be for-
gotten that the earlier Navigatoi-s-our Pioneers in
those icy seas-are entitled to share in the honoiu-
of the Discovery of a North-West Passage, having

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Illustrating the J) iscovery of

TTfK NORTH WEST PASSAGE

BY H.M. SHIP INVESTIGATOR

Arran(]ierl and Comrtft^ limn
OFFICIAL CHARTS ANnlWCVMmTS

B* ARMSTRO]VG,B.]V._F.R.G.S.

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xviii

INTRODUCTION.

indicated the way, that led us to solve the difficult
problem.

The efforts so nobly and perseveringly made by
this country, in search of Sir John FrankUn and his
companions, must form one of the brightest pages
in our history. Proud may a country feel, on turn-
ing to a record of the deeds of heroism and en-
durance in connection with this unparalleled search,
affording as it does unquestionable evidence that the
advance of civUization and refinement has produced
no enervating influence or deterioration on the cha-
racter of her sons. Nor, in connection with this
search, must I omit to mention the noble and spirited
efforts made by our Transatlantic brethren, efforts
which have excited in this country so high an ap-
preciation and such grateful feelings.

I must also mention the name of a Lady,* who
has elicited the admiration and sympathy of the
world for the devotion and constancy she has dis-
played and the eflPorts she has made in endeavouring
to ascertain the fate of her heroic husband and his
brave followers.

It is needless to revert to errors that may have
been committed in directing the search, which led
to a failure in the object of these Expeditions.
For these, we were not res -onsible — officers
and men obeyed orders, and' did their duty.
That our efforts met with entire approval, we have

* Lady Franklin.

INTRODUCTION.

XIX

the proud gratification of knowing — our Most
Gracious Sovereign having marked Her sense of
our services, by bestowing a Decoration on aU en-
gaged in Arctic Service from 1819 to 1855.

Deep interest and anxiety were felt, not only in
this country, but throughout the civilized world, for
the fate of Sir John Franklin and his companions,
at the close of 1849, on the return of the Ex-
pedition under Sir James C. Ross, in 1849,
without discovering any traces of them. The
Government then determined on prosecuting the
search m an opposite direction, in the hope of
meetmg with the missing vessels towards the ter^
mmation of their voyage. An Expedition, therefore,
consisting of H.M. Ships 'Enterprize' and 'In.
vestigator,' was immediately fitted out, and ordered
to proceed to Behring's Strait, and enter the Polar
Sea from the westward. The command was en-
trusted to Captain Richard Collmson, C.B. That
ofiicer hoisted his pendant in the ' Enterprize,' and
the command of the 'Investigator' was given to
Commander Robert J. Le Mesurier M'^CIure. To
this ship I was appointed.

These vessels had but recently returned from the
Polar Sea, where they had sufiered much in their
conflicts with the ice. They were now thoroughly
repaired, and fitted for further service with all pos-
sible dispatch, and on the 18th of December were

INTRODUCTION.

commissioned at Woolwich. As they had a seven
months' voyage in perspective, it was necessary that
they should leave England early in January, so as
to ensure reaching the ice in good time. So
rapidly did their equipment proceed, that, to the
credit of all engaged in it, be it recorded, on the
10th of January, 1850, three weeks only from the
date of their commission, both ships were ready for
sea.

The perilous nature of the service, to say nothing
of its popular and philanthropic character, was quite
sufficient to call forth a host of volunteers.

The selection of men for Polar Service is a
duty of the greatest import, for on their phy-
sical capabilities and moral endowments must
depend not only the efficiency of the Expedition,
but its safety in the hour of emergency. This
duty, therefore, demanded ray greatest care and
attention. Men, for Arctic Service, should be of a'
cheerful disposition, free from disease, "without
blemish and without spot," inured to the life of
a sailor, or, in other words, regiUar " man-o'-war's
men," in age varying from twenty to thirty or thirty-
two years, of middle stature, well-proportioned bodies,
strong, and active, with a well-developed, capacious
chest, sound heart and lungs— organs which, under
any circumstances, are th-. most severely taxed—
of stout, muscular liiribs, with a liglit, active gait, and

INTRODUCTION.

XXI

free from any constitutional or hereditary predisno-
sition to disease. A list of the Officers and crew of
the ' Investigator ' is subjoined.

Although the above requisites were not all com-
bmed m each man, the result has. I think, proved-
from the privations and hardships they so long sus-
tamed, and the unprecedented circumstance of their
number remaining undiminished by death for a
penod of nearly three years and a half-that they
were a most efficient and able body of men, well
adapted for the service, on which their powers were
so severely tested.

The preserved meats could not be got ready in
tune to receive them at Woolwich, and we were
ordered round to Plymouth to await their arrival
from Ireland. They were supplied by the Messi..
Gamble, of Cork, and reflect credit on that firm, both
from their excellent quality, and from the dispatch
used in their preparation, owing to the short notice
they had on taking the contract. We met with
considerable losses in this valuable article, but from
causes for which the contractors were not responsible
The salt-beef and pork were of the same exceUent
quality ; nevertheless, this department of victualling
admits of much improvement.

The clothing, with which we were liberally sup-
plied by Government, was well suited for Arctic Ser-
vice, and contributed largely to our comfort; but our

xxu

INTRODUCTION.

experience suggested several improvements which
might be advantageously made in future equip-
ments.

On the 10th of January, 1850, we took our
departure from Woolwich, and after encountering
very boisterous weather in the Channel, reached
Plymouth on the morning of the 14th, where we
found the preserved meats awaiting our arrival. The
utmost dispatch was used in getting them on board,
and everything was completed for sailing on the
evening of the 19th of January, when the ships were
reported ready for sea.

A List of the Officers and Men of H.M.S. 'Investigator,' who
Discovered and Made the North-West Passage.

Name.

[Robt. J. L. M. McClure
Wm. H. Haswell .
[Samuel G. Cressifrell
I Alex. Armstrong, M.D.
Robert J. Wynniatt

Hubert H. Sainsburr

I Henry Piers . ,
I Stephen Court ,
I Joseph C. Paine.
I George J, Ford .
I George Kennedy
IWilliauj Newton
iHenry May .
■Michael Jliun

|George Brown

Sdward Pawcett
IenryBIu£f .
Toseph Facey.
Isaac Stubberfield

lohn Kerr

James Williams
John Calder .
Peter Thompson
Robert Tiffeny
games Evans .
^enry Stone .
lenry Gauen. ,
pomelius Hulott
Fm. Whitfield
[ohn Wilcox . .
peorge L. Milner
Jeury Sugdeu
'icliard Ross

Rank or Ratiug.

Commander.

mutenant.

Ditto.

Surgeon.

Mate.

Ditto.

Assistant-Surgeon .
Second Master.
Clerk in Charge.
2nd-Cla8s Carpenter.
Actiujg Boatswain.
Ice-Mate.
Quartermaster.
Ditto.

Ditto.

Boatswain's Mate.
Ditto.
Sailmaker.
Ship's Cook.

Gunner's Mate.

Captainof the Hold.

Ditto Forecastle.

Ditto Fore-top.

Ditto Main-top.

Caulker.

Blacksmith and Armourer
Carpenter's Mate.
Captain's Coxswain.
Carpenter's Crew.
Paymaster's Steward.
Officers' Steward.
Ditto Cook.
Able Seaman.

Bcmarks.

Died on board H.M.S.
'Resolute/off Cape Cock-
bum, NoF. llth, 1853,
. from Consumption.

f 5**^"* Quartermaster,
( Dec. 24th, 1850.

/ pied Apriliath, 1853, on
1 board the • Investigator '

I in the Bay of Mercy, from
\. the effects of Scurvy.

tjl

List of the Officers and Crew of H.M.S. ' Invegtigator^— {Continued).

Name.

James McDonald
Wm. Batten .
George Qibbs

Thomas Morgan

John Davies .
Samuel Mackenzie
Charles Steel .
David Harris.

John Ames .

Charles Anderson
Fredk. Tavlor
James Nelson
William Carroll
George OUej .
Mark Bradbury
John Ramsay

John Boyle .

Thomas Toy .
Samuel Bounsall
Ellis Griffiths.
John Keefe .
Mark Griffiths
Thos. S. Carmichael
Samuel Helfe

John Woon .

John B. Earquharson
George Parfitt
Elias Bow. .
James Biggs .
Thomas Bancroft
Thomas King .
James Saunders
John A. Meirtsohing

Rank or Rating.

Able Seaman.

Ditto.

Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

Ditto.

Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

Ditto.

Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

Serjeant Royal Marines.

Corporal Ditto.
Private Ditto.

Private
Private
Private
Private
Private

Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

Remarki.

Died on board the • North
Star,* at Beechy Island,
May 22nd, 1854, from
the eiTeots of Scurvy and
. Scrofula.

'Died on board the 'In-

I vestigator,' in the Bay of

I Mercy, April 11th, 1854,

from the effects of Scurvy.

Died on board the 'In-

vestigator,' in the Bay of

Mercy, April 6th, 1854,

^ from the effects of Scurvy.

Promoted to be Colour-
Serjeant
Promoted to be Seijeant.

Esquimaux Interpreter.

atov' — {Continued) .

PERSONAL NARRATIVE

THE DISCOVERY

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England-Weather-First Disaster at Sea-Our
Crew-Heavy Gale-Ship Leaky-Results-Part Company
wxth our Consort-Change of Weather-Means adopted for
Drymg Sh.p- Cause of Leakage - Results of our hasty
Departure from England-Lime-juice-Enter the Tropics-
Temperature of Air and Decks-Crowded State and Results
-•Evemngs m the Tropics-The Tropic Bird-Flying Fish-
Their Flight. &c.-Change of Weather-Stormy Pe^l^I
Bainandlnddents-Thunder-Porpoises-Bathing-Strange
Sad-Cro. the Equator-Ships-Their suspicious !ppearauS
-Leaee the Tropics-Temperate Zone-Sunset-wLher-
AJbatross and other Birds-Character of Winds on either
side of Equator-Discolouration of Water-South-west Gale
^hlr Tw f ^'"«"— Moth, Flight and Capture-

^d S':u:7 :• f -^ ^^^'-P-gress-TempLture
and Somidmgs-Birds- Double Pay commences-Land-

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Cape Virgins-Euter Straits of Magellan-Guanacos-Pata-
gonia and T.rra del Fuego-Appearances of Land-Meet
il.M.S.' Gorgon '-Another Steamer - InteUigence of
Enterprise '-Taken in Tow-Sight a Wreck-The Coast-
Patagomans-Fuegian Coast-Temperature-Port Fambe-
Altered Aspect of Land-Fortescue Baj-Meet our Consort
and Incidents.

Ii* i

On Sunday morning, the 20th of January, 1850
Her Majesty's Ships 'Enterprize' and 'Investigator'
stored, provisioned, and fuUy equipped for three
yea^ service in the Arctic regions, weighed anchor
in Plymouth Sound, and with a fair, fresh breeze
from the East South East, proceeded to sea
steenng a course West by South. The ships'
had previously waited for a few minutes the
arnval of several boats, that were making aU speed
towards us, and we had the gratification of receiving
our letters, the last communication we were destined
to have with the civilized world for many a long day
As the western extremity of the breakwater was
rounded, the ships of war at anchor in the Sound
dipped then: snow-white ensigns of St. George, and
hoisted the signal of "Success and Farewell" to
cheer us on our way. With the aid of a fair wind
and a crowd of canvas, the white cliffs of merry
England graduaUy faded from our view, and as night
dosed m, and the shades of evening fell, the land of
the brave and free was no longer visible. With stout
hearts and m high spirits we thus bade adieu to our

DISASTER AT SEA.

country, and with a strange, instinctive feeling that
our cruize would ^irove an eventful one, there ap-
peared amongst all a determination, that whatever
human efforts could achieve to promote the success
of the philanthropic service on which we were em-
ployed, would not be wanting, when the time arrived,
for commencing operations in the icy regions of the
North.

For the next few days the weather became thick,
foggy, and otherwise unfavourable, rendering it neces'
sary to fire signal guns at intervals during the day,
and rockets at night, to keep up with the ' Enter-
prize,' as she maintained a decided superiority over us
in sailing.

On the morning of the 24th, when about 140
miles from land, the weather having become still
more boisterous, and when under a press of sail in
the hope of overtaking our Consort— of whom we had
lost sight during the prevalence of a fog— we encoun-
tered our first disaster, a squall having carried away
several spars, including fore-topmast, fore and main-
top-gallant and royal masts, flying-jib-boom, and
sprung the topsail-yard— thus rendering us for a
time a partial wreck, and, as a natural consequence,
in a state of great disorder and confusion. As
morning advanced and the fog partially cleared away,
the 'Enterprize' hove in sight, bore down, as we
supposed to our assistance, wore under our lee
quarter, and kept company for the remainder of the

* TJIE NOHTH-WEST PASSAGE.

day, but made no communication with us by signal
or otherwise. Indeed, had she hoisted the immortal
Nelsonian signal, substituting "ship" for "man,"
that " England expects every ship to do its duty,"
we could not have had a more practical iUustration of
It. Throughout the day all were employed iu clearing
away the wreck, and towards evening we 1 ad re-
trieved oiu- disaster, and were gratified to see the
ship once more under canvas.

This was the first opportunity we had of judging
of the mate'riel of which our crew was composed, and
the zeal, activity, and fine seaman-like qualities which
they displayed on this occasion, fuUy justified all the
anticipations we had formed of as fine a ship's
company as ever left England.

The tempestuous weather which set in on the 25th
blowing a south-west gale, with rain and heaw'
squalls, caused the ship to strain much, and she
consequently became leaky, making from fifteen to
twenty mches of water daily in the hold; thus adding
considerably to the discomfort and confusion pre-
viously created, the remedying which still continued to
occupy our crew. On the night of the 26th we lost
sight of our Consort during a squall, and it was not
untU dayhght on the morning of the 81st that she
became again visible. She, like ourselves, had been
struggling with adversity since we parted company.
The gale continued to rage with unmitigated fuiy,
and a heavy sea running with all the colossal force

LOSS OF CONSORT. 5

and magnitude characteristic of the Atlantic Ocean,
the incessant pitching and rolling strained the'
ship so much, that the leakage increased, rendering it
necessary to work daily at the pumps. The water
likewise streamed through the ship's side and upper
works to such a degree, that our cabins had at times
several inches of water surging to and fro, which
coupled with her extremely crowded state both
above and between decks with stores and pro-
visions, the necessity of having the hatches frequently
battened down, and the impure atmosphere thus
generated below, established a state of things by no
means desirable, and led us ardently to hope for a
change.

On the morning of the 2nd of Februaiy we finally
lost sight of our Consort. The weather having, at
length, assumed a more propitious aspect, the wind,
abated m force, had become more westerly, she made
aU plam sail and stood on her course to the south-
west. We also did the same, but despite our best
efforts could not keep up with her. However, we
were m some degree consoled by seeing H;M.S. ' In-
vestigator' once more under full sail, with a fine
favounng gale, steering her true course to the south-
ward, and the misery and discomfort we had lately
experienced were soon forgotten under the exhila-
ratmg mfluence of this auspicious change in the ele-
ments.

The hatches were removed, a fi-e current of air

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

admitted between decks, Sylvester's stove for heating
the ship was lighted, and other means adopted to dry
the dL?k? throughout, after their late partial inunda-
tion, and all the evil results of the recent gales were
thus remedied as far as it lay in our power then to

do 80.

We failed to discover the source of the leaking,
but aiiributed it chiefly to the service on which the
ship had been but recently employed in the Polar
regions ; the great pressure and straining to which
she was then subject from the ice would readily
account for it. We had her sides and upper works
recaulked as soon as the weather admitted, with good
results. >

The continuous fine weather which then set in,
enabled us to direct our attention to the re-stowing of
the holds, and putting things generally in order, from
the great state of confusion they were in on leaving
England, owing to the short period allotted to us for
fitting out, and the hasty way in which everything
was put on board from want of time— fears having been
entertained that the season would be too far advanced
for commencing operations in the North, were we not
to leave England before the middle of January.

On the 13th February, the ship's company were
placed on a daily allowance of lime juice in accordance
with the regulations of the Naval service ; but owing to
the special character of the service on which we were
employed, double quantity was issued, viz. : one ounce

one ounce

ENTEll THE TROPICS. 7

daily instead of half an ounce ; the latter, the usual
allowance issued in the N; vy. As great care was
taken to procure for us lime juice of the very best
quality (some complaints having been made of that
supplied to a recent expedition) we were furnished
with two kinds, one of which was prepared with a
tenth part of brandy, and the other, the simple acid
boiled and containing no spirit. It was intimated to
me by the then Director-General of the Medical Depart-
ment of the Navy, that I should be called on to report
on the relative merits of the two kinds of acid, and
their efficacy as antiscorbutic agents on my return to
this country. It, therefore, became necessary, to adopt
means, whereby I might be enabled to arrive at
results as accurate as it was in my power to obtain.
In furtherance of this object, I therefore represented
the necessity of each' half of the crew partaking of
one preparation, and it was determined that it should
be mixed in separate tubs, where each man should
drink his allowance in presence of an officer.

The weather continued generally fine, wind vari-
able, chiefly east and south-east, with a gradually
increasing temperature, not only in the air, but also
m the sea-water. We had on several occasions, in
obedience to our orders, thrown overboard from time
to time a cask or bottle containing a scroll with the
position of the ship, &c., and this practice was strictly
observed throughout our long voyage, untU we
reached the confines of the ice.

TIIK NORTII-VVKST J'ASSAdK,

I (li|

On Sundny morning the I7t,h February, we crossed
the northern limit of the Tropic of Cancer, in long.
26° 30' \V., and at noon, were in lat. 22° 10' N.

We had for some days jjrevious been in expecta-
tion of meeting with the North-easterly Trade wind,
but it was not until the 19th February that we first
felt its cheering influence, its advent having been
preceded by calms, variable winds and rain. We had
then reached the lat. 18° 4' N., long. 26° 57' W., and
the morning being fresh and fair, with a curling
white sea following in our wake, sparkling in the rays
of a bright Tropical sun, could not but produce an
exhilarating effect on the minds of all, as we felt we
had now completed the first stage on our journey.

As we continued to decrease our latitude in our
southerly progress, the heat became daily more op-
pressive, temperature varying from 76° to 80° F., but
between docks 5° higher. We were still occupied in
clearing and re-stowing the holds, the foul emanations
from which, arising from the damp, confined air,
created by the extremely crowded state of the decks,
were now being gradually dissipated, as heat and
light were admitted to exercise their salutary influ-
ence in removing a great cause of unhealthiness and
discomfort.

Nothing can surpass the feeling of quiet, indeed I
may say luxurious enjoyment, however monotonous it
may be, which one experiences after sunset in
Tropical latitudes : for, exhausted more or less with

KLYINO FISH. Q

the oppressive heat of the day, the sun's depnr.
^ ture 18 succeeded by a delightfully cool breeze, most
grateful to one's feelings, and refreshing in its influ-
ence, which generally continues throughout the night
and gradually dies away at sunrise. It then becomes
variable in force throughout the day, freshens a little
after noon, but is deprived of its delicious coolness, un-
til the close of day restores it to us again. The passive
enjoyment of these delightful evenings was much en.
hanced by a lovely moon, shining with increased
brightness in a cloudless sky, and tinging with her
silvery reflection, the pretty, undulating surface of a
placid sea, through which we continued steadily to
wend our way.

On the 22nd of February, in lat. 12° 26' N we
were favoured with the first appearance of the beauti-
ful Tropic Bird {Ph<Bton Candidus) which hovered
for some time about the ship, as if to welcome us to
the regions of his dwelling, but they are generally met
with much further to the northward near the limit of
the Tropic. The Flying Fish {E,ocitus VoHtans) those
beautiful little denizens of Tropical seas had lately been
very abundant ; their flight through the air is rapid but
short, describing a graceful curve in their course, and
faUmg m the water from an apparent inabUity to con-
tmue on the wing. The height of the cmre formed
does not appear to exceed a few feet ; some had flown
and were caught in the main chains, which were only
four feet out of water. They are generally pursued by

( 1;

(

1 ^

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the Bonito (Thynnus Vulgaris) or some other equally
ferocious enemy in the sea ; and the Frigate Bird
• (FregataAquila) in the air — thus affording small chance
of escape. The latter in the pursuit of their prey, came
close to the ship, and with wonderful dexterity and
quickness, picked up the object of their chase without
being arrested in their course : occasionally seizing
them in their flight, and at other times barely touching
the surface of the water, as the beautiful little fish
emerged from it in their short but fatal aerial journey.
The effect produced in their flight by the silvery
reflection of the sun's rays from their delicately fonned
wings, is extremely beautiful, and one of those com-
pensating sights that repay a visit to the Tropics.

On the 26th ofrebruary,inlat.4° 21' N., Ipng. 24°
15' W., we lost the north-easterly Trade wind, which
was succeeded by calms and light variable winds
chiefly from the southward. The barometer had pre-
viously foretold the change, and the appearance of the
Stormy Petrel {ProcellariaPelagica) or Mother Carey's
Chicken, confirmed it in the minds of sailors and led
them to expect what they denominate "the other
Trade," meaning thereby the south-east. The sky
from its previous lovely, cloudless aspect, assumed a
dark lowering appearance, the air became close and
oppressive, temperature 85°, and the southern horizon
afforded every indication of coming rain. In the ab-
sence of wind our sails flapped sluggishly against the
masts, and our progress through the water had become

TRADE WINDS.

quite arrested. Presently water descended in torrents
with its characteristic tropical force. It was really
amusing to see all hands, officers and men busily
engaged with every available utensil, exercising all
their mgenuity to make the most of their opportunity.
The rain did not continue more than ten minutes, and
m much less time we had succeeded in obtaining a
good supply. Immediately afterwards aU hands were
piped to wash clothes. The subsequent change in
the atmosphere was most genial to our feelings-it had
become cooler; although the temperature only fell P
yet we were wonderfully refreshed, and a light breeze
spnngmg up from the south-east, the ' Investigator '
previously becalmed, was again under the influence
of her canvas. Thunder was heard after the rain had
ceased, and lightning was but very faintly visible in
crmsequence of the dazzling brightness of the sun
which now shone forth with surpassing splendour
Poipoises made their appearance in great shoals, and
the surface of the sea was still further ornamented
by the beautiful iridescent tints reflected from num-
bers of the Portuguese Man-of-War (Physalia Pela.
gica) ns if they, too, had felt the influence of the
bounteous shower.

The weather for the next few days assumed a cha-
racter ever variable-thunder, lightning and rain
ocoasionaUy with light winds and f^quent calms Z
generally took advantage of the latter to bathe, bu
the presence of sharks, rendered some precautions

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

necessary for our safety, and a sail was accordingly
rigged from the swinging boom, and suspended in
the water sufficiently deep to allow of a good and
safe bath.

On the 2nd of March, in lat. 2° 35' N., long. 24«
2' W., the south-east Trade wind became fully esta-
blished, and w*5 were gladdened by the sight of a
strange sail (the first seen since leaving England)
which hove in sight, but at too great a distance for
any communication. On the following day we
were still further favoured by two strange sail, one of
which subsequently hoisted the colours of one of the
Hanse Towns, and their presence, contributed largely
to enliven the dull unvarying aspect of all around.
As we approached the Equator, the heat had
become very oppressive, temperature from 80° to 86°
and between decks several degrees higher — in the Sick
Bay aa high as 94° caused from the circumstances I
have previously mentioned, preventing free ventilation.

At noon, on the 5th, we crossed the Equator in
lat. 28° 6' W.J and, as the breeze had freshened
considerably during the night, it had become somewhat
cooler. Temperature of air fell to 81°, and that of sea-
water to 82°, with a density on examination of 1027,
and much more saline to the taste, as it was like-
wise of higher specific gravity than I found it to be
frr»m my observations in the higher extra-tropical
latitudes through which we had passed.

The usual customs were observed on the occasion

LEAVE THE TROPICS.

e occasion

of crossing the Line, which are much too absurd and
ridiculous for narration.

Our progress for the next few days was un-
marked by any feature of interest. The sight of an
occasional sail, and an increase of temperature, which
rose to 86°, as the sun became vertical in his cJurse to
the northward on the 4th, in lat. 4° 47' S., are the
only events to be recorded.

As we reached the latitude of Rio Janeiro nu-
merous vessels crossed our path, with some of which
we exchanged colours. One or two of them presented
a very suspicious appearance; and from their build
ng, and being without cargo, opinion waa unanimous
m pronouncing them slavers. They glided swiftly
through the water, steering a course for the coast of
Afnca. The excitement of watching their progress was
a very acceptable interruption to the ordinary pro-
ceedings of the day.

As we approached the limit of the Southern Tropic
(Capncorn). which we crossed on the 19th of March,
m long. 36° W., the weather assumed an unsettled
appearance; and a steady faU in the barometers fore-
told a change. The temperature had decreased to
79°, which proved particularly pleasant, after the
intensity of the equatorial heat to which we had
lately been subject. I have seldom witnessed a more
beautiful sunset than that which ushered us into the
Temperate Zone of the Southern hemisphere. The sun
dittused the gorgeous effulgence of his rays through

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

a mass of dense clouds that hung heavily on the
western horizon, producing the most brilliant and
varied tints of colouring it is possible to conceive.
As we viewed this splendid spectacle, we gladly bade
adieu for a time to the regions of the Torrid Zone.

For the next few days the state of the weather
was fully confirmatory of previous indications.
Occasional squalls with rain, thunder and lightning,
were present, and the storm birds made their ap-
pearance in considerable numbers. On the 29th,
when in lat. 35° S., we first saw the Wandering
Albatross, {Diomedea Exulans), the Cape Pigeon {PrO'
cellaria Capensis), and Shearwater {Puffinv^ Major),
having visited us two days previously. The wind,
at the same time, veered gradually round to the
northward, and finally north-west, from whence it
blew with the force of a gale, and with a great
increase to our speed, being directly fair for us. We
averaged upwards of seven and a half knots, which
we considered wonderful performance for the 'In-
vestigator.*

These strong northerly winds we found very dif-
ferent in the southern hemisphere from the general
efiects experienced by their presence in the Nor-
thern. They have the same character generally
as the southerly winds in the noithem hemisphere
from the great change they undergo in their course
through the Tropics. During their prevalence, the
atmosphere becomes moist, warm and oppressive.

SOBTH-WKST GALE. Is

conveying the peculiar sensations experienced ftom
southerly mnds in our own climate. The barometer
become depressed, the temperature elevated, and
heavy dews are deposited at night ; whUe the southerly
<nnds, coming from the Antarctic Ocean, have an
effect precisely the opposite; are cool, diy and invigo-
rating, and a rise in the barometer with a faU in the
thermometer invariably foretel their coming

On the 30th of Mareh. we were off the entrance
to the River Plate in long. 50' W W., as was evi-
denced from the altered appearance of the water, its
deep blue colour having been exchanged for the
peculiar greenish, muddy hue, caused by the admixture
of fresh water. Its density had decreased to 1023
and we ascertained at the same time, that we had a
current setting to the southward, in our favour, at the
rate of twenty miles per day.

oU^Tt^,' *"' 'l'*' ""^ '""^ ««"'''» ">» latitude

^Tesf. TJ"^"'' ''"' "ortl'-'-'em extreme
of he Straits of Magellan, which then bore S 42 W
distant 979 miles. The momingwas ushered S
a dense, hazy atmosphere, occasional rain, and a heavy

r™:r- /'■ir^'-P^^betokeiedachtS

takerahi Tk " '"• ""^ ^'"^ ^'^ ^^dedy
taken aback by a squall irem the south-west We

for a heavy gale from the south-west, which obliged

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

US to steer several points out of our course. Towards
evening, the gale gradually increasing in force, with
every indication of a wild tempestuous night, the ship
was "hove to" under close-reefed main-topsail, and
her head to the north-west, making from five to six
points lee way in an hour, with a very heavy sea
running from the southward. Previous to the change,
the barometers fell ; but when the wind finally settled
into the south-west, they each gradually rose, viz.,
Marine barometer. Aneroid, and Sympiesometer. The
thermometer fell eight degrees; sea- water underwent a
like reduction ; and the wind carried with it all that
bracing, invigorating influence which never fails to
accompany a southerly wind in the southern hemi-
sphere.

The birds which had been about us for some days,
became more numerous, apparently revelling in wilder
enjoyment with the increasing gale. I could not' but
admire the truly noble appearance presented by the
Wandering Albatross, as he soared aloft with marvellous
ease, dignity, and grandeur, in defiance of the fury of
the blast, occasionally descending with electric mpidity,
and gracefully alighting on the white crest of a moun-
tain billow, was borne majestically along on the
foaming bosom of the sea. The Stormy Petrels
and Shearwater appeared wonderfully excited, and
much more rapid in their flight than I had hitherto
observed them ; evidently delighting in the boisterous
fury of the elements, then so mercilessly assaihng us,

OALK MODERATES.

as the towering seas, in rapid succession, broke with
terrific force on our devoted ship, now struggling
for every inch of ground in the fierce conflict, but
in which, despite of all our efforts, she was driven
far to leeward of her true course.

At the onset of the gale one of the Lepidoptera
flew on board, a large species of the South American
moth, which was secured and added to ray collection
How a creature so delicate in its structure, and so iU
adapted for a flight of some three or four hundred
miles from land, could have reached us even under
the most favourable circumstances, it appears difficult
to conceive. Night closed in wi(h heavy rain, thun-
der and lightning, and presented an appearance as
wild and tempestuous as the most vivid fancy could
pourtray. On the following morning, April Ist, there
was no mitigation in the force of the gale, which con-
tmued to rage with unabated fury, the ship proving
herself an admirable seaboat. We had made much
lee way, and upwards of a degree of Northing, so that
we had lost ground considerably since the previous
day at noon. The clouds had assumed the circo-cu-
mull and strati-cumuli character, having a white
hardened appearance, apparently of dense structure
and ascending in their course, from the haze on the
southern horizon contributing to their formation ; and
appeared to foreteU a change for the better. The air
was cold, clear, and invigorating, which together with
the sea-water had fallen two degrees in twenty-four

TIIK NORTH-WKST PA88AGK.

hours, and the barometers were steadily in the as-
cendant. At noot), we found our position to bo in lat.
8S° 4'. S. long. 52° 1' W., having thus lost nearly two
degrees since the commencement of the tempest.
Towards evening the gale had evidently diminished in
force, and throughout the night continued steadily to
moderate. On the morning of the 2nd, it had nearly
subsided, but a heavy sea still remained to remind us
of the past, rolling sluggishly along from the south-
ward, which rendered the ship very uneasy. The
storm birds had nearly deserted us, (a favourable
indication of the weather) and those that remained
appeared evidently much more sluggish in their
flight.

On the 3rd, the wind had gradually come round
to the northward, which enabled us to shape a course
once more for Cape Virgins, then S. 40°, W. 1075
miles distant, but our progress was much retarded
by a strong current against us from the south-west.
With the change of wind, the barometer and
thermometer had undergone a corresponding change
of depression and elevation ; sea- water likewise became
more elevated in temperature. We picked up several
pieces of sea-weed (Alga) and found it beautifully
studded with groups of the " Cirrhopoda," young but
healthy; the pedicle by which they were attached
quite clear and gelatinous in appearance.

Several Whales (Physeter Macrocephalus) were ob-
served at some distance, going to the southward ; they

APPROACH THK LAND.

rather enlivened the dulness of all around, as they dis-
turbed the surface of the now tranquil sea, with their
huge cawdal fin, and the picturesque jets of water, which
they spouted into the air, as they sluggishly pursued
their onward course. We also saw a small butterfly
fluttenng about the ship for some time, but failed to
secure him, as a victim to science.

Our progress to the southward, notwithstanding
the fair wind with which we were favoured, was slow
owmg to the existence of a strong current against us'
the power of which was, however, fortunately anta'
gonized m the curse of thirty-six hours by the
contmuance of the northerly winds that blew with
variable force, attended by the deposition of heavy
dew at night, and all the other characteristics I have
previously alluded to. On the 5th of April in lat
4P, S., long. 54° 36' W., the deep sea lead,' with a
self-registering thermometer attached, was sent down
to the depth of 150 fathoms, and no soundings ob-
tamed : the temperature of the water was found to
be 40°, and at the surface 59°, with a density of 1 025
The weather continued changeable, occasional squalls
with ram, thunder and lightning, but the wind for-
tunately, was for the most part fair; and as we steadily
increased our latitude, we experienced a daily diminu-
tion of temperature.

On the 9th, we were afforded the pleasing evidence
of om: gradual approach to the land, although Cape
Virgms was stUl 379 miles distant, having obtained

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

soundings in sixty futhoms fine sand, for the first time
sea-weed and diift wood were likewise met with in
considerable quantities. Gulls and Albatrosses again
made their appearance, accompanied by representatives
of all the Petrel family. Although the weather was
wild and unsettled, it was less so than on fonuer
occasions when these birds were about us ; our guns
were consequently in requisition, and although our
success was not great, we managed to procure a few
specimens by firing as they flew over the ship, so
that they fell on board. Trifling as these events
were, they proved a most agreeable interruption to
the routine of the day, and imparted, for a time,
a degree of pleasant excitement, of which we
heartily wished a daily repetition. When one of
the Cape Pigeons, then the most numerous, had been
shot and fell in the water, the rest suddenly collected
around it, and commenced pecking at its yet scarce
hfeless body. These birds generally approached the
ship more closely than any others, with the exception
of the little Storm Petrel, which with rapid, swallow
like course, darted closely and fearlesdy about the
vessel.

On the 1 2th, we had reached within 200 miles of
Cape Virgins, the weather had become cold and
foggy, temperature had fallen to 49° and sea-water 47° ;
but we continued to make good progress, and sounded
daily in water varying from 60 to 70 fathoms. The
number of birds continued on the increase, and we were

CAl'E VI110IN8.

more fortunate in our sport tlinn usual, having shot a
fine specimen of the Magolianio Swnn, {Cygnus
Anatoides) a well known inhabitant of these latitudes
together with the Sheathbil! (Chionis Alba) a bird fre-'
quently met with, at a great distance from land and
remarkable for the whiteness and purity of its
plumage, as well as forming from its habits the
connecting link between the wading and flying birds
{GrallcB and Passerince.)

At noon on the 14th, having reached within ninety-
one miles of the entrance of the Straits of Magellan
and in long. 67° 57', W. we became from this
date entitled to double pay, in accordance with the
orders of the Admiralty, that it should commence on
attammg the meridian of Cape Horn, which we had
then reached. The weather had become still colder
and more foggy, as to lead us to supposn we might
be in the vicinity of some masses e drifting from
the Antarctic Ocean. As evening advanced, we were
anxiously looking out for any appearance of land; but
the sun took his departure without disclosing it to our
view.

It was therefore considered judicious to shorten
sail, and alter course to West, the direction of the
land, and stand in under easy sail, to await for
daylight.

At six o'clock on the morning of the 15th, to our
great joy, we observed the land, the first we had
seen smce leaving England twelve weeks before, and

I '« l:

•niK N«)«TII-\VKHr I'AHHAnM.

t\\c long mul imxionRly lookml-for Oiipo VirginH, i\w
mutU'VmUww vxUv.uuty of Pntngoniii, with itK flno
hoU\, Hiul \V(!lU(l«'liii(«(l (Mitlitui imd wliito cliffs,
opnuod to om viinv ns diiyliglit. mmlo iU ni)i)oiimrico,
and nt 8 a.m. Wd luid fiiirly cntorcd the Strnit of
Magrllmi. Unlorfunatuly, howovor, wo cnooiintnrod a
foul wind imn i\w Nouth-wcRt, and for tlio roniaindor
of tlu? day oontimuMi tacking from tho Patagoiiian
shoro to the o|)|>o8itc linul of 'IVrra del Fucga
alternately.

The gonrral m\wvi of the land on tlu? I'litagonian
or northern »u{v. of the Strait, rnneli rc8ond)le8 the
DowiKs of the south coast of Kngland ; the headlands
aiv bold, prominent and of considerahle elevation, with
nmuerous indtntations on the coast line, skirted here
and thei-e by a fine sandy beach. We could observe
fmm the ship immense herds of the (Juanaco, or
Sotith vVmerican IJanm {Anrhmia Llacma) grazing
on the heights, or corn-sing along the beach ; they
appeai-ed «piite the si^e of nnl <leer. when viewed
tlnx)ngh a telescope ; but wo were too distant to be
abl(> to makt> jnon> accurate observation— their num-
bers, however, astonished us. Hinis were likewise con-
girgated on the beach in gnmt abundanctv— the
towering t>utline <)f the Kmeu {Rhea Amerirma) 8to()d
forth in bold relief amongst njyriads' of "the feathered
tribe that surrounded them. The nu\jority appeared,
fmm their plmujige and genend character, to belong
chiefly to that fannly with which we had been

MKKT TIIK '(JORGON.'

SO long fiimilittr (Palmipidcs) and that had afforded
UB, on oin- long cruise, sonic sport and much cheer-
ful oxcitomont.

Wo could not discern any trace of habitation, or of
the remarkable inhabitants of this part of the world,
and the feeling of evident security, which the Guanaco,'
an animal romorkablo for its shyness and timidity,
appeared to experience, and collected in vast herds]
lod us to suppose that they were far removed from'
the haunts of mon, and but seldom disturbed by
travellers.

The coast of Terra del Fuega, in this part of the
Strait, appeared in its outline somewhat similar to that
of Patagonia, but we did not approoch sufficiently
near to make accurate observations.

Early on the following morning, the 10th, at
3 A.M., the strength of the tide setting to the east-
ward, and adv(>rse winds, compelled us to anchor off
Cape Possession.

At 7.30, wo were again under weigh, and took
advantage of the first turn of tide setting to the west-
ward, soon after which we observed a steaiicr at
anchor m Possession \hy ; and much to our satisfaction
exchanged numbers with Her Majesty's steam-sloop
'Gorgon,' awaiting our arrival, to lend us all possible
assistance in our passage through the Strait. S^^e had
been dispatched from Valparaiso especially for this
purpose by the Admiral, on receipt of orders from the
Admiralty-a wise measure, as the passage, through

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

i I

the Strait, by such a ship as ours could not otherwise
have been undertaken with safety. She had pre-
viously towed the ' Enterprise ' some distance, and
returned for the * Investigator.'

After communicating by signal with 'Gorgon,'
we stood on, when she immediately lighted fires and
made all preparations to foUow. Soon afterwards another
steamer was observed following in our wake, and
having closed with us, much sooner than we expected
from her great speed, she proved to be the "New
World" of New York, bound for Valparaiso and CaH-
fornia, last from Rio Janeiro, and as we were informed
only ten days out~m announcement we received
for as much as it was worth, and with much amuse-
ment. She was freighted with a cargo of adventurers,
about as wild and motley looking a set of feUows as I
ever saw, headed by a captain worthy to be the
leader of such a band ; after a verbal interchange
of compliments, she proceeded on her voyage at a
rapid rate, carrying American colours.

The ' Gorgon ' closed with us, about three o'clock,
soon after which the tide having turned, she took
us in tow, and proceeded onwards at a speed from
five to six knots an hour. From her we learned
of the safe arrival of our consort ' Enterprise,' six
days before, and that she was waiting our arrival at a
more distant part of the Strait. On passing through
the first narrows, as they are called from the proximity
of land on either side, we observed on Point Barranca

PATAGONIANS.

the wreck of a vessel, high and dry on the beach, and
a tent pitched a few yards distant, both of which had
been deserted. We were sufficiently close to see the
interior of the tent, but no sign of any of the crew
of the ill-fated ship. The existence of the tent,
and the ship not having the appearance of being
broken up in hull, aflPorded pretty strong evidence
that she had not been visited by the natives.

The appearance of the coast did not differ
materially in its general character, from that before
mentioned— it was well defined by an outline of
rich-looking land; its uniformity interrupted occa-
sionally by a few • -oal shaped hills, of volcanic
origin, intervening i.„tween which and the sea, a
narrow strip of soil, presenting a low undulating
surface, affording apparently, the finest pasturage
to the herds of Guanacos which we saw grazing on
it; butlhey were not near so numerous as we
had seen elsewhere. As we advanced towards that
part of the Strait, marked on the chart Indian Cove,
we observed a dense volume of smoke ascending
between a low range of hills ; this was found to
proceed from a Patagonian encampment, as seen from
the masthead, and around which the natives were
sitting. Soon afterwards, but further on, we observed
the smoke of a fire kindled on the beach— the usual
sign of a desire on the part of the natives to com-
municate for the purpose of barter, and with the aid
of our glasses we discovered four horsemen and a few

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Others on foot, advancing towards an encampment
stoppmg occasionally to watch our movements, end
ascertam any sign on our part of communicating.
Ihe distance was too great to enable us to judge
accurately of their stature, but they certainly appeared
much above the average size of ordinary men The
advance of night did not allow us to continue
our observations, as we still kept on our course
and remained but little enlightened on the much
talked of subject of Patagonian stature ; nor were
we subsequently afforded an opportunity of solvinc.
the problem. *

We observed the outline of the Fuegian coast, in
this part of the Strait much more irregular in ap-
pearance and character, and the soU which is sandy
more and, and barren than elsewhere ; on it we saw a
few Guanacos, grazing on a pasturage, evidently much
mfenor to that of the opposite coast, but no trace of
habitation, or inhabitants whatever.

The novel excitement of the day was most accept-
able to us all. The temperature had assumed that
of an English winter, having faUen to 40° but the
presence of sunshine rendered the day pleasant and
otherwise agreeable.

We still proceeded in tow of ' Gorgon ' during
the night of the 16th, and anchored at an early hour
on the following morning oif Port Famine, a small
Chilian settlement, inhabited by a Governor and a
{e^. soldiers. The few houses of the settlement were

JOFN OUR CONSORT.

built of wood, and close to each other, surrounded by
a stockade, very ancient looking and partially dilapi-
dated, being the original houses of the old Spanish
settlement. The place is well deserving the name it
bears, from its bleak desolate aspect ; although situated
on an eminence gradually inclining from the sea, it
presents every external feature of poverty and starva-
tion.

We communicated with a view of procuring fresh
provisions and vegetables, if possible, for our crew ;
and found that the governor (Captain Dunn of the
Chilian service) was an Irishman. We were surprised
on hearing him address us in his native language,
which had lost nothing of its purity and richness
from his long expatriation; but we had evidently
come to the wrong place for provisions, for not one
particle could Port Famine afford us. We here
learned, however, that 'Enterprise ' had passed two
days before. At 9 a.m. we were again under weigh
in tow of steamer. The general aspect of the
country from this point was quite different from
what we had previously seen ; it presented an appear-
ance wild, bold and picturesque to a degree— the
mountains rose almost precipitously from the waters'
edge to a height varying from 1000 to 3000 feet,
wooded towards the base j but the trees (pine) appeared
small and stunted in growth. They had already
assumed their wintry garb of snow, imparting a
dreary, cheerless character to all around.

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

The course of the cataracts, produced from the
thawing of the snow in summer, is well marked on tie
rugged face of the mountain, and the well defined
channels, afford ample evidence of what must then
be the force and grandeur they impart to the pic-
turesque beauty of the scene.

At three o'clock in the afternoon, as we still pro-
ceeded in tow, and as we approached the large and
commodious anchorage of Fortescue Bay, we there saw
to our great delight, our long lost Consort, quietly at
anchor, in expectation of our arrival. Some of us
immediately repaired on board, and after a mutual
interchange, and narration of incidents and adventures
during our long cruise, we found that both ships had
crossed the Line on the same day, and within thirty
miles of each other. Her passage was otherwise
much like our own, and we were happy to find all in
good health and spirits like ourselves. They also
informed us, that had we not made our appearance
that evening, the senior officer, (Captain CoUinson),
intended to have gone to sea on the following morning,'
and after reaching the Pacific, to have sent * Gorgon'
back to assist us through the Straits— so that we
had just arrived in time to rejoin our Consort.

We immediately commenced procuring a supply of
water, and made every other preparation to sail at da),
light on the following morning ; all hands were, conse-
quently, employed the entire night with their usual acti-
vity and zeal. The ' Enterprise' had luckily obtained a

WANT OP VEGETABLES.

few small bullocks, after great difficulty, at a small
Chilian settlement on Sandy Cove : one half of these
were immediately sent on board to us, with a good sup-
ply of fresh fish, which their labour and industry had,
by the aid of nets, succeeded in catching in the bay,'
and both were very acceptable to us. I regretted!
however, that no vegetable food could be procured,'
the want of which was much felt after a twelve weeks'
voyage.

We passed at anchor in the bay, three American
vessels, all bound to Cahfornia; notwithstanding
repeated eflForts to get to the westward, they had
been detained here no less a period than three months,
owing to the prevalence of adverse winds. We
therefore had good reason to feel thankful, that wisdom
and foresight had placed a steamer at our disposal.

U- If.

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

CHAPTER II.

Preparations for leaving the Strait— Medical Survey— Specimens
obtained— Departure— Aspect of the land— Fuegians— Their
appearance, &c.— Enter the Pacific— Weather— Towing— Part
company with ' Enterprise ' and • Gorgon ' — Heavy Gale,
driven to the latitude of Cape Horn— State of Ship— A Spar
seen— Damage sustained— Disaster— Loss of Masts— Man
overboard— Whales— Recover Life-buoy— State of the Crew

—Storm Birds — Incidents — Wandering Albatross Their

capture— Sooty Albatross— Deep Sea Soundings, and Tem-
perature of Water— Loss of Bread from leakage— Reflections
on the Voyage— Tropic Birds— Enter the Tropics— Shape
course for Owhyee— Progress— Cross the Equator— Rain-
Trade Winds — Temperature of Air and Water — Sio'ht of

Land — Mona Roa, its height, appearance, character, &c.

Feelings on seeing it— Islands of Mowee and Morotoi—
Appearances, &c.— Ship— Oahu— Flying Fish — Arrival of

Pilot — Intelligence of our Consort — Anchor in the Roads

H.M.S. 'Swift' — Appearance and Character of Island

Entrance to Harbour — Preparations for Sea — Honolulu,

Government, &c. — Missionaries — Their Laws and Influence

Protectorate of Great Britain — Commerce — Supply and
demand for all articles— Houses, Natives, Appearance, Dress,
Character, &c. — Laws existing — Incidents attending Excur-

ASPECT OP LAND.

sions— Character and appearance of the 'Island— Legend of
its Conquest— Our Crew— Arrival of ' Cockatrice '—Letters
and Despatches from England — Completion of Work —
Senior Officer's intentions — Effect produced — Climate of
Islands.

On the following morning, the 18th, the order for
sailing was countermanded, owing to the prevalence
of a strong breeze from the westward, which would
have rendered the towing of both ships impracticable.
The day was, therefore, devoted to the completion of
watering, receiving provisions from ' Gorgon,' and
making other preparations for sea.

A medical survey was ordered at my request, on
three of our crew, whom, from the manifestation of
weakness during the voyage, and other causes un-
necessary here to allude to, I considered unfit for the
peculiar duties of the Expedition. They were accord-
ingly invalided, and sent on board, ' Gorgon,' for
passage to Valparaiso, en route to England.

The delay Hkewise enabled me to make several
additions to the Natural History department; a few
geological and botanical specimens, three species of
Passerinae (Lanius, Oriolus and Muscicapce), together
with some specimens of the Crustacea, and Zoophytes.
We much regretted that time did not admit of our
seeing more of this wild but interesting country, as
our service admitted no delay. All were equally
eager and anxious to press onwards to the scene of
our future operations, as we had reached our present

:iii

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

position in what" we considered good time ; and thus
completed another important stage on our voyage.

On the morning of the 19th, at 4.30 a.m. both
ships 'were taken in tow by * Gorgon,* and proceeded
at a spr<^d varying from one to six knots, influenced
by the tide, which we considered runs through this
Strait at the rate of four or five knots an hour. As we
advanceu to the westward, the scenery became still
more wild and grand, with an appearance of gloom,
dreariness, and desolation, seldom presented else-
where. The coast appeared everywhere almost inac-
cessible, from the bold, precipitous front presented
by the stern outline of the rocky mountains, as they
rose precipitously from the water's edge, rearing their
snow-capped summits in an atmosphere rendered
dense and chill by the icy blast from the southern
ocean. No trace of vegetation was perceptible, no
evidence that the foot of man had ever trodden the
wilds of these inhospitable shores, and there was nothing
to indicate that the wretched, and uncivilized Puegian
had ever dared to explore this dreary waste. Glaciers
existed in the gorge of the mountains, apparently
their perpetual occupants, which rendered complete
the general effect of gloomy grandeur in the sterile,
and uninhabited wilds of this part of Magellan's
Strait.

In the early part of the day, previous to our an-
proaching the " Land of Desolation," as it is called,
we observed, on the coast of Terra del Fuega, three

ESQUIMAUX.

canoes issuing forth from a small bay- all glasses
were immediately pointed towards them, every one
bemg excited, hy more or less curiosity, to see the
inhabitants of this remote part of the world. There
. were four in each canoe, two women paddling, and
two men sitting, one at either end, the former, ac-
cording to the custom which exists amongs' savage
nations, do the greater amount of manual labour, and
on them principally devolves the management of the
canoe.

These poor creatures were of low stature, dark olive
complexion, with long hair streaming in the wind, and
a painfully striking, animalizcd expression of counte-
nance; their only covering for the body, consisted
of a piece of seal-skin, thrown partially over the back
and shoulders, and fastened in front. I never saw
the race of man before in such an abject state of
degradation. They made sundry signs and gestures
from the canoes— which, by the dexterous use of the
paddle, were now pretty close to the ship— manifest-
mg a desire to communicate, but we could make
no delay, and I regretted much not having had an
opportunity of a closer inspection of specimens of
the human race, apparently amongst the lowest in
the scale of intelligence. Further on, the presence
of others were indicated by fires lighted in a small
mdentation of the coast, and we saw several of them in
a state of complete nudity, notwithstanding the cold-
ness of the weather, standing on a rock, waving their

'i: l!'

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

ill

arms, and making otlier rude gestures in the air —
evidently showing ti desire to communicate, as we
observed a canoe coming out from the Uttle bay ; but
our onwn^d course soon left it far in the distance,
having cousidcrably increased our speed.

We continued in tow of ' Gorgon' throughout the
night, and next morning, the 20th, a heavy swell
from the westward betokened our proximity to the
Pacific. About 8 a.m. Cape Pillar was rounded,
and the broad expanse of the Pacific Ocean broke
fairly on our view.

We had now entered on, what was to many of us,
a new domain, which certainly did not present a very
propitious aspect ; for the heavy sea which we met
with, caused towing to become a matter of some
difficulty, and as we were placed astern of ' Enter-
prize,' the strength of the towing lines was fully
tested. We had not proceeded far, when the inces-
sant pitching and rolling of both ships carried away
one of the halsers, and our Consort, as we thought,
unnaturally enough shpped the other. We were
thus suddenly cast adrift on our own resources ; she
proceeded still in tow of the steamer, we made all
sail and followed in the same course. At 1.30,
however, we observed 'Enterprize' then consider-
ably ahead, part company with the steamer, and
the latter immediately bore down towards us; the
cutter was rhen sent to her, taking our last letters
and dispatches for England, but soon returned with

'the GORGON.'

two halsers, and the ' Gorgon' once more took us in
tow, and proceeded to follow our Consort; at 3
P.M. wc finally lost sight of her, and we never met
afterwards.

The weather in the early part of the day presented
a very threatening appearance ; the barometers had
been gradually falling for the previous thirty-six hours,
and there was every indication of a r-voing gale'
which, towards evening, had fairly s ;t ,n ,.om the
north-west with a heavy sea; the ' Gr rg u,' ho -'ever,
led us clear of the rocky bound coasi of Scatheni
America.

Early on the morning of Sunday the 20th, 1 a.m.,
the towing Imlsers were carried away, and we were
again fairly adrift. We fired rockets and hoisted lights
&c to show our position to ' Gorgon,' and it being still
dark and tempestuous, we lay to under easy sail.
At dayhght ' Gorgon ' was observed some distance on
our weather quarter, and we made efforts to com-
municate by haUing, writing on a board, and
finally by signal; but the heavy sea which was
then runnmg, rendered our attempts abortive ; nor
could we possibly have sent a boat with her towing
haJsers, which we had on board, and which she
evidently sought to recover. She dropped astern
and was last observed in the afternoon at a great
distance on our lee quarter, as we supposed in search
of the • Enterprize.'

Permission having been accorded to us to caU at

D 2

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Easter Island, one of the most eastern of the Pacific
Islands ; at noon we shaped a course for it, which
then bore N. 44° W. 2145 miles distant. The gale
continued to increase in force, with every prospect of
its duration ; the storm birds were about us in num-
bers ; and nothing was wanting to heighten the wiidness
of the tempest.

At 1 A.M., on the 32nd, a blue light and rocket
was observed in the south-west, which we answered ;
but morning failed to reveal the source from whence
it came. From the onset of the gale we were utterly
unaule to contend against it : it being directly foul for
us, we continued to make much lee way, and were
drifted at the rate of from fifty to sixty miles a
day to the south-west, until we reached the latitude of
Cape Horn, where the wind having become more
westerly, enabled us to pursue a more direct course ;
but no mitigation took place in its force, which
continued to rage furiously, and with terrific squalls,
rain, hail, thunder and lightning at intervals.

The weather steadily maintained this character,
without, I may say, an hour's intermission, until the
22nd of May, when in lat. 26°. 34' S., long. J 02°. 28'
W., it suddenly fell calm. The lull of the tempest
was of short dura' on, and it appeared tc have ac-
quired fresh power during this temporary cessation ;
for on the following morning, it . again blew with its
accustomed violence, and it was not until the 26th,
when we had crossed the limit of the southern

BAD WEATHER, 37

Tropic (Capricorn) in long. 100°. 49' W., that it
finally abated. Next day, to our inexpressible joy,
we found ourselves once more under the influence
of the long looked for, and now welcome south-
east Trade wind.

During this bad weather, that for a period of
five weeks had thus assailed us, and which for its
duration and power, was quite unprecedented to
the oldest of us, we felt assured no ocean in the
world had less claim to the term Pacific, than the
one on whose waters we had been so ruthlessly
tossed. We had reason to remember this part of
our voyage ; indeed, it formed a memorable chapter
in our naval experience. It is difficult to form
an idea of the general state of the ship through-
out this trying period. The hatches were, for
the most part, battened down, dead-lights fitted
on, excluding the light from above— ventilation
almost arrested, and th. decks saturated with wet,
the sea-water at times, being several inches deep
on the lower deck, from the heavy seas which
incessantly broke over us. Cascades of salt water
occasionally made their way through the several
creeks and crevices in the hatchways, whUe the
piteous moanings and creaking of the poor old
ship's timbers, weeping from every pore— and the
atmosphere between decks loaded with moisture and
noxious effluvia, emanating from so many persons bei.ig
congregated in a confined space, added largely to

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

h r.

the general discomfort. Apprehensions were enter-
tained at one time, that we should be driven on the iron
bound, inhospitable coast of south-western Patagonia.
On Monday, the 28th of April, a spar was observed
with some rope attached floating near us, with
about twelve or fourteen feet of it upright in the
water, conveying the idea of its being maintained in
that position by some heavy mass attached to it below
water, such as rope, or cordage. It had doubtless
been carried away from a ship during the gale, or was
a portion of a wreck. Speculation was rife amongst
us as to possibilities, as we knew our Consort could
not be far distant, and her loss of a spar by no
means an improbable event.

On the night of the 2nd of May, a sail was
observed on our weather beam, but it being
dark and cloudy, her form and distance could not be
very accurately distinguished with the naked eye.
With the aid of a night glass, she proved to be a
barque steering to the eastward, and shewed a light
which we ansAvered with another. We first thought it
was ' Enterprize,' but from the course she was
pursuing, we had reason to alter our opinion.

We sustained considerable damage on our upper
deck on the night of the 10th, during the raging of the
storm ; the head and waist hammock netting having
been carried away with some other minor mischances.
These were speedily repaired as well as our re-
sources enabled us then to do.

A SQUALL.

On the morning of the 15th, a disaster similar to
that which we encountered soon after leaving
England, again befel us. At 6.30 a.m. (the Senior
Lieutenant being the officer of the watch) a squall
from the west-south-west suddenly took the ship,
which carried away her fore and main top masts, and
top gaUant masts, together with the jib-boom— a
direful casualty under the circumstances of our
position. All hands were suddenly, to our great
amazement, called to shorten sail and clear the wreck.
Luckily for us the squaU was of short duration, and
the wind subsequently, for a short time fell light.

The spars with the rigging attached were hang-
ing over the ship's side, and four of our men in
their activity and zeal, had got out on the jib-
boom before this was carried away, (which it was
subsequently to the topmasts,) and with it were
precipitated into the water— the ship pitching heavily
at the time. The cry of "a man overboard" had its
usual thrilling effect, when all the crew were in
immediate activity to save their messmates, the hfe-
buoy was at once let go, and a boat manned in
less time than I have taken to narrate it. They
were found clinging tenaciously to the rigging
attached to the spars, and were soon picked up under
the bows, having fortunately sustained no injury;
and had only the discomfort of their temporary
submersion. Our smallest boat, the dingy, as it is
termed, was dispatched to recover th^ life-buoy then

THE NOllTH-WEST PASSAGE.

floating at a short distance from the ship. As several
whales had appeared about the ship, and were still
close to us, spouting with a loud blowing noise, their
graceful curves of water into the air, we became
somewhat anxious for the safety of the little boat, as
one of those huge monsters rising under her keel, or
a stroke of its powerful tail, would inevitably have
capsized her; she regained us, however, in safety.
During the remainder of the day, all was bustle and
activity in repairing the damages of the morning.
Nothing could exceed the zeal with which our men
worked, and before the sun had taken his depai-ture,
we had the satisfaction of seeing the ship again under
sail. Fortunate, indeed, was this lull for us, for within
twenty.four hours afterwards, the gale had increased
to hurricanic force, to which we dared not show a
stitch of canvass, and we were driven at its mercy
under " the bare poles."

The admissions to the Sick list had at this time
undergone a considerable increase, from the almost
constant exposure of the men on deck to the fury of
the elements. The working the ship frequently re-
quiring the whole strength of the ship's company,
and the Sick Bay shared equally with other parts
of the vessel, in being wet, leaky, and otherwise un-
comfortable : nor was there any appearance from the
nature of their diseases, of a diminution taking place
in the number until the advent of more favourable
weather. I could not but admire the fine spirit our

STORM BIRDS.

men displayed under the worst circumstancss, and the
cheerfulness and readiness with which they ever
obeyed the caU of duty ; there was only one feeling
of regret expressed amongst them, that the continuance
of the tempestuous weather, might so far delay
us in our voyage as to prevent our reaching the ice
m time sufficient for active operations that season.

Throughout the long period of these gales, the
storm birds were our constant companions, in
greater or lesser numbers, and in addition to those
formerly alluded to, we observed the Sooty Alba-
tross, (Diomedea fuliginosa) and Fulmar Petrel (Pro-
cellaria glacialis). Either pressed by hunger or
emboldened by the fury of the storm, they flew
with wonderful impetuosity within a few feet
•of the ship; darting almost with the celerity of
lightning at the slightest object they saw floating on
the water, and uttering that remarkable shriU noise so
peculiar to the storm birds of the ocean. Fishing
lines, with hooks baited, were in great requisition,
and were floated astern with a piece of corkwood
attached. These they seized with voracity, and in this
way we procured from time to time many specimens.
On one occasion, we hooked one of the large wandering
Albatrosses, and it was quite wonderful to witness
the instinctive feeling of self-preservation which he
displayed. When conscious of being caught he
immediately dived, and on rising with wings
expanded to their utmost extent, 4hrew himself

Ill;

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

partially on his back, thereby adding increased power
to the great surface of resistance presented to
our efforts in hauhng, and by this means bent
the hook, which finally escaped from his mouth, and
was drawn on board perfectly straight. The bird
rose proudly, shook his head, and flapping his
wmgs as if conscious of success in the rcemt canHkt,
betook himyeif to flight.

Two of these creatures, which we sul-sequentiy
caught, wert- brought on board with some difficulty
measured 10 an<I II ft.., ^„ ^^^ ^.^^^^^^ ^^ ^^J

weighed 19 and 21 lbs., .^.pe.fively. Tnay were really
magnificent looking birds ; fir plumage was white, with
a mottled grey back, und c.arK wings-head and legs
of a pmk colour. They, together with all the other
■species of the Petrel family that were caught, ejected
a large quantity of yellow oily matter, as if sickness
had niddenly supervened on their change of
element The Sooty Albatross is smaller, and
appears m flight, habits, and general distinctive
character similar to its more powerful confKire the
young bird of this species. It has the plumage of
dark grey colour gradually merging into the darker
hue of the parent bird, with white chalk-like eye-
brows. We caught one, and it also became sick
Ike the others whbn b^-ought on board. We only
lost their company as we approached the Umits
of the Tropics.

On the 22nd of May, in lat. 26° 34' S., long.

L088 OP BREAD.

101° 28' W, the deep sea lead Avith the:aiometer
attached was sent down to the depth of 186 fathoms,
when we found the temperature 53° F., and again tJ
1 ! fathoms, it was 66° ; the temperature at the surface
btuiig 72°. and that of air 71° E, which might perhaps
be considered to establish the existence of a deep
.southerly current from the Antarctic Ocean.

During the prevalence of bad weather, we found that
water had found its way into the bread-rocm, from
the constant straining and working of the ship, and
as soon as circumstances admitted, its contents
were brought on deck for survey, when no less a
quantity than 986 lbs. was condemned as unfit for
use, and thrown overboard. This great loss would
have been a matter of serious consideration had it
occurred at a later period of our voyage, but we
were consoled with the knowledge that we should be
able to supply the deficiency at the Sandwich Islands,
which we subsequently did.

It is scarcely possible to describe with what pleasure
we hailed our re-approach to the Tropics, as we were
wafted steadily on our course by fresh and fair Trade
breezes from the south-east, after the long period of
bad weather we had lately experienced, with all its
attendant discomforts and disasters; to say no-
thing of a dull, irksome feeling, inseparable from a
long sea voyage, that still continued to be ours
despite the cheering influence under which we
wended our way to the northward. There was

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

nothing present to enliven the scene, nothing broke
on the view, but the broad expanse of the placid
sea, with its slightly ruffled surface sparkhng in
the sunshine, except the flight of the Flying-Fish
the dash of the Dolphin, or the croak of the'
Phaeton, as he proudly soared aloft in an atmo-
sphere pure and serene, beneath the canopy of a
cloudless sky. Enlivening and agreeable as these
sights at first were, their interest was now gone
and we indulged in the hope that a fair wind and
a crowd of canvas would soon bring us to more
varied scenes.

The Tropic Birds were met with at a higher
latitude than in the Atlantic, we having seen two on
the 18th May, in lat. 27° 50', long. 97° 48'; and
from the time we entered the Tropics, they 'were
seldom a day absent. They are remarkable pretty
are about the size of a Gull, and when on the wing
they utter a peculiar shrill whistle; their plumage is
entirely white, with the exception of a little black
surrounding the eyes, and extending in a delicate
crescentic line towards the back part of the head •
the primaries, or larger wing feathers, are also tipped
with black. The tail feathers are exceedingly
pretty, two are prolonged from its centre, vaiying
in length from 6 to 10 inches, of a most delicate
pmk colour, which contrasts beautifully with the
satiny lustre of its snow-white plumage. In the
young birds I observed but one, the other could be

CROSS THE EQUATOR.

seen on examination shooting forth from its parent
nucleus. The feet and legs are short, and the wings
long, rendering the creature capable of very prolonged
flight. In confirmation of this, I may state, that on
examining the stomach of one I found it to contain
nothing but a few small masses of blue clay, the
existence of which appeared very strange, as we
were at the time 2000 miles distant from the
South American coast, and about 600 miles from the
nearest island.

On the 26th of May, on entering the Tropics, we
shaped a course for the Sandwich Island, Owhyee
which then, bore N. 53° W. 4140 miles distant, and
from that date continued to make uninterruptedly
good progress until it was reached, carrying every
stitch of canvas it was possible to crowd on the
ship. Under circumstances so favourable, we made an
average daily speed of upwards of 100 miles, and on
one occasion 186 miles in twenty-four hours, the
greatest performance the slow sailing 'Investigator'
ever made.

On the 15th of June, we crossed the Equator for
the second time in the space of three months, in long.
131° W. but without meeting with that heavy rain and
the other atmospheric changes I had occasion to
notice in the Atlantic ; the weather being beautifully
clear and serene.

When ten miles south of the Line, I was surprised
to see a solitary little Storm Petrel, fluttering about

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the ship in a state of apparent exhaustion. I hoped
it would have sought a refuge un Iiom^i, but in vain,
as it was soon lost to view, w hat cool J have brought
the poor thing so far from the usual regions of its
abode, it appears diflScult to conceive, as this could not
then be attributed to the force of the wind, whif'h
had been long light.

On the 19th and 20th, we were favoured with

heavy rain— as anxiously looked for and welcomed as

on former occasiojis— the wind at the same time

having freshened and become variable with occasional

squalls ; and on the 23rd we were gratified by feel-

ing the influence of the north-east Trade, in lat. 8°.

14' N., long. 139°. 56' W. My observations on the

temperature of air and water, did not vaiy very

materially from those made in the Atlantic. I

remarked, however, that they were both one degree

higher than we had registered on any former occasion,

when five degrees north of the Equator.

At six o'clock on the morning of June the 29th,
the joyful report of land was proclaimed frr a the
mast-hetd, which soon brougi us ^n dec! The
snow-covered "Mona Roa," in the .sland of
Owhyee, could be faintly discerr d in the distmce,
and most gladly was it gazed on by us all,
although the island was still forty miles distant. As
we approached the land, this lofty mo> nin he
height of which is about 1500 feet, preseii 4 b my
fine, picturesque appearance, for as the day advanotd

OWHYEE.

the 811 I's rays gradually dispeUed the mist that
enshrouded it, through which its conical tops now
peered, disclosing their high lands in the purest
snow-white garb, and beautifully reflecting the scorch-
ing rays that illumined the chilling loveliness of
the scene.

This island is of a purely volcanic character, as was
fully evidenced by its general aspect. It is of great ex-
tent as we continued to run along its coast the entire
day, and wight did not free us from it ')oundaries.

I cannot express the delightful feelings with which
we viewed the land, fter a sea voyage of upwards of
15,000 miles, and as the ship continued to near the
port, our impatience and anxiet evidently increased.
On the following day, Sunday, 30th, the other
islands of the -rcvp came into view, Mowee and
^orotoi, both oi v/hich were grand and lofty in
their gener'^ outUne, and truly picturesque. Deep
gorges an valley? a wl ich we observed numerous
huts, interrupted t.. j continuity presented by the
bold precipitous coast line ..hich the eastern aspect of
these isl ads presented, both of which were of volcanic
origin. Judging from appearances, ^ese gorges and
valleys are quite secluded and isolai> d from each
other, walled in, as it were, by the Jotty mountains
which sm rounded them; appareitly thev were weU
cultivated, and the huts comfortable andc mmdiaus.
We were favoured wit1< the agreeable sight of a
fellow voyafe'T, for the irst time^ T may say, smi;e

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

if '

leaving the Straits of Magellan, with whom we ex-
changed colours. She proved to be an American, and,
like ourselves, bound for the Island of Oahu,'
which was visible at sunset, but as night soon
afterwards closed in, the ship was hove to, to awuit
for a pilot.

From the time we approached these islands, we
observed the Flying-Fish more numerous, in greater
shoals, and larger than we had at any time before
seen them ; they were likewise difierent in colour,
being of a reddish brown. Several flew on board,'
one was no less than sixteen inches in length.

At 4 A.M., on the morning of the 1st of July, we
made all sail for the harbour of Honolulu, and
alter firing two signal guns, a pilot came on hoard.
We much regretted, owing to wind and tide he
could not then take us into harbour, and were, there-
fore, obliged to anchor in the roads, outside the reefs,
where we found several merchant vessels, and the
French corvette ' Bayonnaise, ' whose gallant Captain
politely sent an officer on board, immediately we had
anchored, with offers of assistance and congratulations
on our arrival. We had previously exchanged num-
bers with H.M. Brig, 'Swift,' at anchor in the
harbour.

Our first enquiry was for our consort ' Enterprize,'
whom we learned, with deep regret, had only left on
the morning preceding for the North, having arrived
here on the 25th of June, and after replenishing

DIAMOND ISLAND. aq

proWsions slorca, &c., her Captain. „ot considering it

hav.„ left .nstmctions for our guidaneo with t ,e
senior offacer, Captain Aldhu.„, of the 'Swift' No
t.me was therefore lost in making the necess^
preparations for following her. ntcessaiy

The appearance of the island of Oalm as we an.
proached, was like the others, of voleanic org'
P.curesque and beautiful, intersected by vZ"'

«1 h the flounshmg town of Honolulu is situated

beadf™ ;""■""' "°''°^-"''"- ^"ter-melons
bread.fnnt and every variety of other tropical frui

"■ «'f "'?»'"''»'-• Ther. is a re^arkaWeTooZ
™o„nta,„ situated south-east of the town, and 5
ta shape and isolation, standing alone n the Mn
close to the beach, the name of " Diamond Isl»d"
has been given to it. p,«„ n, f„„„2„ iT

tT '" ''"""'' '' '^"«'- ag™™°t;,ow

two thu..s a.^ formed of distinct volcanic cones "n
wh.ch .s super.i„,posed a stratified depositioTwh-ch

tz :l:t r-^^^'*"''^'' ^weneet:

water, when the volcanic cones shot through the bed
of e ocean, or deposited after they had bee'n form '
but m either ease, long previous to their acquiring
terrestrial existence. acquiring

At six o'clock on the morning of the 2,.J, we got
-nder weigh, and proceeded to the entranc; of fhe

.50

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

harbour, where we were safely warped by the
natives; and anchored. This is narrow and dan-
gerous, as sand-banks run out on either side on
which we saw the remains of several ships
that had, perhaps, journeyed far over the globe,
only to deposit their timbers here. On enter-
ing the narrow channel, an acute angle must
be rounded, which, in certain states of the wind,
is attended with danger. It is then that the
warps, having been previously laid out, are seized
by the natives, who, in great numbers rush into
the water, and by the united power of their
muscular frames, ships are warped in safety to
their anchorage.

No time was lost in replenishing stores and provi-
sions, and making all other necessary preparations for
again proceeding to sea. Captain Aldham and his
fine, noble-hearted crew cheerfully lent us every
assistance, which enabled us to allow our men leave
to go on shore and enjoy themselves after their own
fashion, for they had earned every indulgence that
could b.3 granted to them, by their exemplary a ..d
admirable conduct. We commenced a thorough
exploration of the island, and mounted on very in-
different horses, soon exhausted " the lions" of the
place from end to end.

Honolulu has lost almost everything pertaining to
its ancient character, laws and customs, and wears
now an aspect truly mongrel, half native, half foreign.

AMERICAN MISSIONARIES. 51

The government is vested in the King and his minis-
ters ; the latter were, I think, with a solitary exception
ehosen from the Missionaries who appear to exLise
sovereign power in the island; the exeeption being
that of the Mmister of Foreign Affairs, (Mr Wy e^
wo IS, I believe, a Seotohman. They nearif^
belong to a braneh of the Boston Missio'naf
Society, and shame to om- country be it told the.;
was not at this time a single BriLh missiona^T
the en irc group of Sandwich Islands. All the good
work for the spiritual, and it would also appeal for
the emporal welfare of the people, has bL a^
.. complished by the zealous labours of the citizens"
a country to which these islands may not improbably
at a period perhaps not distant, own their allegiance
I was certain'y su^irised to find that this fine gLp of
.a ands daily growing in importance, from the geogra-
Phical position they occupy on the globe-situated as
they are on the direct highway between Asia and
Amc ica, and through the latter to Europe-which own
&eat Entam as their protector, and eany her Union
Jack in he upper canton of their flag, were then so en-
•r ly under American influence, while the number of
active and enteiprizing adventurers f™„ the States
fai exceed those of any other nation. They ecrtainlv
deinand inore of our fostering care and pr I^
o herwise the "Meteor Hag" may in time be s'uppl^cd
by the Stars and Stripes" of the New World

there were a great number of ships i„ the h.arbour,

E 2

lirt i '

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

many of thera whalers, which resort hither from their
cruising ground in the north, to refit and recruit
the health of their crews. The majority of the
others were traders chiefly engaged in the carry-
ing trade between China and California. Ab^..^.t
the principal wharves there is a great bustle— vessels
are in process of taking in cargo, and discharging ;
passengers bound for California are congregated in
groups; numbers of the natives are employed,
whose harsh, discordant sounds of voice, by no
means added to ihe tranquillity of the scene.

Trade is very b>isk not only with these places, but,
with other parts of the world, and during the pre-
vious twelve months, it had increased to a wonderful
degree. In consequence of which, the call for
native produce far exceeds the supply, and it
would appear that the resources of the islands were
unequal to meet the heaviness of the demand. I
was informed that the prices of articles of every
description had risen a hundred per cent., within a
few months. English, American, and European
manufactures and produce can be procured with
facility, but at an enormous price. The markets
are poorly supplied from the rapidity with which
things are bought up; fruit and fish oven are
scarce from the same cause, and exorbitantly high in
price.

There are many very fine houses in the town
and neighbourhood belonging to merchants of the

NATIVES.

place, built apparently with great regard to comfort
and coolness. The native huts are numerous, and
formed of a wooden frame-work well put together,
and densely thatched with straw, that renders them
not only cool, but hkewise impervious to rain ; they
generally possess but one apartment, on the floor
of which mats are spread, where the occupants eat,
drink, and sleep. The natives appear a fine athletic
race, well formed, tall and muscular, erect in their
gait, and of a dark brown or copper colour. I believe,
they enjoy a great immunity from those direful
evils, that civilization frequently carries in her
train, and which have contributed largely to the
degeneration of the natives of many of the more
Southern iilands in the Pacific. They are clad, for
the most part, in a modified style of European
dress, of light fabric suitable to the climate, consist-
ing of short trousers and shirt; but in the coun-
try both are frequently dispensed with, and the
"maro" substituted; a hat being often worn with
it, as if to supply the want of other portions of dress,
and this apparently imparts great dignity to the
wearer.

They are uniformly civil, courteous, and obliging,
many instances of which I had an opportunity of
observing in my rides through the island; for it
not unfrequently happened to myself and companions,
where roads did not abound, that wc went astray.
This was no sooner observed, than we could dis-

uw w

"* THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

cern a lightly clad guide hastening over the plain to
our assistance.

These remarks are equally applicable to the women
on whose beauty I regret to say I cannot bestow un-
qualified praise ; nor on their dress, a long loose robe
drawn closely at the neck and extending down to the
feet— this is, I believe, the only garment worn, and was
generally made of printed cotton of gay colours, into
which yeUow entered largely. This appeared to me,
as they evidently thought themselves also, the tint
most becoming to their complexion ; other articles of
dress are, of coui-se, superadded according to the wealth
and position of the individual. They are exceedingly
fond of dress, and love to display bonnets gaily decked
with ribbons. Veils and umbrellas are also articles much
coveted, and worn even by some of the poorest class,
who make great Gacrifices to obtain them, while their
huts afforded ample evidence of poverty and want.
From the abundance of horses, they may be frequently
seen mounted and riding like the men, which had
rather a curious appearance ; on these occasions I re-
marked the dress was prolonged foi some distance over
each foot, forming a sort of miniature habit on either
side. The higher orders of females were generally
attended by a female servant sim^'' .dy caparisoned.

They are under very severe missionary disciphne,
and the savage "taboo" is extensively in force, witli
the laudable view, I believe, of promoting a' high
standard of morality in the islands; but as far as I

ABSURD LAWS.

could ascertain, this rigour not only defeats ita
purpose, but tends largely to promote and foster a
great amount of secret sin and infamy, which are the
worst of evils. The absurd laws then in force aim
to establish such a moral code, as exists amongst
no people on the face of the earth, and this is
largely and secretly violated by those who are
obliged openly to profess it, under fear of the pains
and penalties its violation entails.

I may here adduce an instance of some of the
absurd, puritanical laws which exist— the uise
of wine and spirits, is totally prohibited, under
pain of being denied the rites of baptism, and other
privileges pertaining to the Christian religion ; and
I was informed that a respectable American merchant
was anxiously looking out for the arrival of a British
man-of-war, bearing a chaplain, that he might have
his child, then many months old, baptised—a rite the
clergymen of his own church had refused, because he
allowed wine to be drunk in his house. Such is a
specimen of the missionary code, and, for the good
of the community, the advancement of that Holy
religion, of which the law-makers are ministers, the
sooner it is repealed the better.

Amongst the pleasant rides this island affords,
one is deserving mention, no less from its beauty than
its historical interest. It is thronffh the delightful
and picturesque valley, thr-t ri^cs with a gentle
ascent to the westward of Kk lown, and intersects

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the lofty chain of mountains extending from end to
etid of the island, whose towering proportions impart
much grandeur and beauty to the scenery. They are
wooded to their summits, and the luxuriance of the
foliage and richness of the verdure, presented a truly
beautiful appearance, as the rays of a departing sun,
falling on its irregular surface had from the effects of
light and shade, revealed to view the most varied tints
of the richest green. In the valley, and extending up
the sides of the mountain, are the summer resi-
dences of the King, and of the missionaries and
merchants of Honolulu; all prettily situated, where
the mango, banana and palm, with every other variety
of tropical produce, luxu'-iantly abound. The mansion
of the King is a plain quiet looking house, with no
particular indication of its being a Royal residence.
Ihose of the missionaries have all a substantial
comfortable appearance, which together with their
well stocked farms, afford another illustration of
their hvmg in the enjoyment of the fat of the
land.

This vaUey abrnptly terminates in a ledge of high
nearly perpendicular rv ks. About five miles from the
town, a winding path descended to a rich plain below
skirtmg on the western side the longitudinal range'
of mountains, and corresponding to that on the
opposite side of the island, whose shores were washed
by the sea about a mile distant from where we
were standing.

1KVA8I0N.

A few huts were interspersed through the plain
and aroun.' them reigned an air of quietude and
repose, delightful to eontemplate. The high roeks on
which we stood were classic ground, for there the lost
battle was fought that placed the Sovereignty of
th,B and the other islands of the group, in the
hands of the ancestor of the present king, (his grand-
father Kamehameha,) and at the base of the rock may
8tUl be seen the bones of the gallant defenders, now
whitened by years of long exposure.

The story is told that when the invader landed

he was met by the natives in great numbers on the

plam of Honolulu, who there gave battle. Thev

were ultimately obliged to retreat up the vaUey I

have mentioned, gallantly defending their soil as they

re .red untd they reached Its top, whe,^ they made

a last final stand, but were i^.erly vanquished; the

conquerors driving them over the roeks i,ao the pre-

cipice beneath, and left few, if any, to Kco.d thei.

disaster or teU how their island had pas. d Vto th-

hands of the invaders.

King Kamehameha III now rules, or rather is
ruled by the missionaries, and they have no doubt
done much in former years for the country and
IS inhabitants; it is, thei-efore, earnestly to be hoped
that a more enlightened system of legislation will
soon prevail.

During our stay, I heard that an old woman

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

survived in a remote plirt of the island, who originally
belonged to Owhyee. She had a clear recollection
of the death of Captain Cook, and could narrate the
circumstance with great accuracy. I regretted much
that time did not enable me to visit her.

It was gratifying to witness the great enjoyment
our men appeared to experience in their short run
on shore; they were to be seen everywhere, some
mounted on horseback, others running along the
road in expectation of their turn to ride. All,
I believe, had more or less violated the existing
missionary laws, and a few gave unmistakeable
evidence of indulgence in fluids stronger than water.
It was only wonderful no casualties occurred, from
the fearful pace at which they galloped through the
country.

Nothing could exceed the fineness of the weather
during our stay, and although the temperature
varied from 75° to 80°, yet from the uniform
regularity and steadiness of the refreshing sea
breeze, the heat was by no means oppressive— the
insular position of these islands tending so much to
modify the effects of the high temperature which
generally prevails. From all the information I could
collect, the climate may be pronounced a salubrious
and delightful one, as evidenced in the high standard
of health enjoyed by its inhabitants, and the degi-ee
of longevity generally attained.

J 'f.

CAPTAIN COIUNSON.

Ontl,e3rd,H.M. Brigantinc 'Oockatrice' arrived
from Ma^atlan-the Adn,iral i...i„g ve,y kindly
dispatched herwiththe latest letters an.l dispatches
from England ; but as few of the former were received
we assumed they had been sent on to Valpamiso, iii
the hope of meeting us there. We had originally
."tended to call at that port on our way to the norti;
ward; but as our passage had been so much delayed
IbLoned ''""'"' ^™ ^^P^^-o^d, the idea was
On the evening of this day. we had nearly com-
pleted our work, and continued uninterruptedly
throughout the night making preparations for our
expected departure next day. AH participated in the
teelmg of an.xiety that no time should be lost as
we had heard that Captain CoUiuson had expressed
h.s mtenfon, (mdecd his orders to us were to that
effect as we learned subsequently,) to take the • Plover'
into the ice with him, in the event of our no't reaching
Belmngs Stra.t in time. This intelligence was
received with manifest dissatisfaction-nor could we
understand why we, who were all volunteers for
service in the ice, should be thus thrown aside to
rcmaui in listless inactivity, while others would
assume the place in this philanthropic service we
could not concede to any, and which it was our
undoubted privilege to occupy.

Had a stimulus been required for increased exertion
It was at this time present; and a general determi!

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

nation was taken, without oui then exactly seeing thn
mode in which it was to be carried out, that Behring's
Strait must be reached in the proper time, to prevent
what we all individually and collectively would have
considered a misfortune no less heavy than unde-
served—our being debarred from taking our proper
place in prosecuting the search for Franklin and his
brave associates.

DEPARTURE . JM H« OLULU.

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Hoaolulu-C.mpletion of Stores and Pr
Bions, and facilUiea afforded-Orders of Captain Colli.
-His intended Route - Valuable intelligence received
res. ,ng the Winds - Adoption of it and success which
foaowed- Incidents Events - Enter the Temperate

one -Progress, Sou ..^s, &c. - Currents - Change of
''emperature-Pass the Aleutian Islands, and enter the Kamt-
bohatka Sea-Sea Birds-First Seal seen -Gore's Island
Currents and Temperature — Difficulties of Navigation —
Weather-King's Island-Soundings-Pass Behring's Strait
-Cross the Arctic Circle-Incidents-Whales-Temperature
of Air and Water-Steer for Cape Lisburne-Issue Warm
CIothmg-Meet the ' Plover '- Unfavourable Report of
the Ice-Incidents -Crow's Nest -Cape Lisburne-Birds,
Dnft-wood, &C.-H.M.S. ' Herald '-Non-arrival of ' Enter
prize '-Determination to enter the Ice alone-Aspect of the
Cape-Object of Visiting it-Signal from ' Herald '-Probable
position of 'Enterprise' -Part company with T rald'-
Admiralty Orders to keep Company-Proceed to :he North

wrr wt"""^ '' "° ''''' '^ '^'- ^^«-^-i-

On the 4th of July, the last portion of our provisions
and stock was taken on board. We failed in obtain-
mg an ample supply of fresh meat, owing to several

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporation

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23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

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THE NOUTH-WEST PASSAGE.

bullocks having been drowned in attempting to land
them from one of the native boats, and our stock was
consequently reduced to one bullock and twelve sheep.
The supply of fruit and vegetables was likewise short,
from the scarcity consequent on the briskness of
demand. It consisted of water-melons, bananas,
pumpkins, cabbages, and other fruits and vegetables j
but we could not then procure a single cocoa-nut,
abundant as they are on the islands, all having been
bought up a few days before.

The ship was again, therefore, much crowded,
every available spot occupied above and below, as
we had completed provisions for three years, and
nothing further remained to detain us. For the
rapidity with which we were thus equipped and made
ready for sea, we were much indebted to the facilities
aflforded by the merchants, and the kind and able
assistance we received from the Consul-General Mil-
ler. Captain Aldhara and the officers and crew of
the ' Swift.' I am sure the latter gallant and es-
timable officer, should these pages ever meet his eye,
will not readUy forget the visit of the ' Investigator,'
and the circumstances which led to his acquaintance
with her officers.

At 6 P.M., on a lovely July evening, the * Investi-
gator' was again under weigh, and standing out to
sea, with the same light and fair breeze which had
brought us to our anchorage, steering a course to the
north-west.

IMPORTANT INTELLIGENCE.

I may here pause to mention a circumstance that,
above all others, exercised the most important in-
fluence on our future destiny, and which was mainly
instrumental towards making the Discovery that dis-
tinguished this Expedition.

The orders of Captain Collinson stated his inten-
tion to run down in the latitude of the Trade-
winds, until he reached the meridian of 174° E., in
the expectation of there meeting with westerly winds,
that he expected would carry him clear of the
Aleutian group of islands into Behring's Strait.
This being the course generally pursued and recom-
mended by former voyagers, and which we, no doubt,
should also have foUovred, had a fortunate circum-
stance not occurred to prevent it.

On the day previous to our leaving Honolulu, we
heard from the inteUigent captain of a merchant ship
(I think an American) who had just arrived in har-
bour, and who had had much experience in navi-
gating the seas to the northward, that he had met
with nothing but easterly winds for some weeks,
which were the prevailing winds at this season of
the year, and he strongly advised us, instead of
following the course I have mentioned above, to
steer direct to the northward. This he told me
and several other officers, at one of the hotels
where we met him, and he was most energetic in
denouncing the folly of pursuing any other course.
I am sorry that I am not in possession of the name

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I I
if

of this fine intelligent old sailor, to enable me
to record it, that he might be aware of the
important results that foUowed the adoption of his
advice.

On the following day, the 5th, we had finally
got clear of the most northerly of the islands,
and pursuing the counsel we had received, had
shaped a direct course to the north-west for the
Aleutian island of Atoka, which then bore N 72°
W. 1790 miles distant. We had thus entered on
nearly the last stage of our voyage under very
favourable circumstances, much refreshed by our
recent visit to these lovely islands. We were
in excellent health and in high spirits from the
mteUigence we had but lately received, and
were now acting upon, in ardent expectation of
reachmg the scene of our future labours in good
time. °

Before leaving the Sandwich Islands, I took ad

vantage of the last opportunity I expected to have

to mvahde three men as unfit for the service of the

Expedition, but who would be quite available for the

ordmaiy duties of general service; and they were

discharged into the ' Swift ' for passage to Valparaiso.

Their places were filled up by three volunteers,

two from the ' Cockatrice,' and one from a mer-

chant ship. The general state of health of the crew

was excellent, although several admissions to the

sick list had taken place since our departure but

LEAVE THE TROPICS.

With affections of no greater importance than those
generally resulting from sailor's indiscretions on
shore.

On the 6th, we finally quitted the balmy regions of
the Tropics in long. 160° 10' W., and again entered
the northern Temperate Zone with a fine fresh breeze
from the N.E. which bore us steadily onward, our
speed averaging each successive day considerably
upwards of a hundred miles.

As we continued our northerly advance, the tem-
perature of air and water sensibly diminished, the
atmosphere gradually lost its pure, serene character
and became dense and foggy, but the win. remained
still steadily m our favour, occasionally varying a point
or two, but fully verifying the intelligence we had
previously received. The fog was on several days so
dense that we were unable to obtain a meri.'
altitude of the sun, nor could an object be seen any
considerable distance ahead of the ship ; but we still
held steadily on our course. O the 19th, our
observations told us of our near approach to land •
several flocks of ducks and other birds were seen!
which afforded us corroborative indications. The
deep sea lead was sent clown with thermometer to the
depth of 180 fathoms, but no soundings were
obtained; the temperature was ascertained to be
40°, that of the surface water being 51°, of air
50°, and the current setting to the southward
was estimated at the rate of ten miles per day

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

At five o'clock on the evening of the 20th, land
was reported on the port bow, and the bold, stem
looking outline of the eastern extremity of the island
of Amlia could be faintly discerned through the
dense haze which enveloped it, then distant about
ten miles. An hour afterwards, the western ex-'
treme of the island of Tchunam was observed
on the starboard bow; indistinctly, it is true, but
equally bold as its confrere on the opposite side.
About the same time we passed through a rapid
tide, and cleared the Strait between these islands, in
which we obtained soundings in thirty-five fathoms.
The hazy state of the atmosphere did not enable us
to make any accurate observations of these islands,
as the general aspect and outline of either could not
be seen ; but a smaU rock oflF the eastern extremity of
Amlia, might be considered a good mark whereby
to identify it.

With the sun's departure this evening, we quitted
the northern limit of the Pacific Ocean, which
we had entered exactly three months previously.
Smce leaving Honolulu on the 4th, our progress
speaks for itself; having entered the Kamschatka sea
on the evening of the 15th day— a passage remarkable
for the favourable circumstances under which it was .
made, ihe wind never once being otherwise than fair,
and this too in latitudes where the experience of
the old voyagers would have led us to expect a very
difi-erent state of things : and the result exceeded

th, land
d, stem
5 island
gh the
t about
3rn ex-
bserved
lie, but
e side.
I rapid
mds, in
ithoms.
able us
slands,
iildnot
nity of
hereby

quitted
which
iously.
'Ogress
Ja sea,
rkable
it was
n fair,
ice of
a very
ceded

ALEUTIAN ISLANDS.

the expectations of the most sanguine amongst us.
We had yet another difficult stage to pass before
entering the Arctic Circle, and one which could
not be thought of without apprehension, from
-the imperfection of the charts, and the foggy
weather known to prevail. While passing the
Aleutian Islands, numerous flocks of sea birds
were about us, they doubtless frequent them
in myriads— embracing, I beheve, all the famUy
of the Palmipides. Two little Auks {Alca Alle)
flew on board at night about 10 p.m. evidently
exhausted, and were speedily captured. On the
21st we shaped a course for Gore's Island, which
bore north, 396 miles distant— being then in the
latitude of some parts of England, (53° 44') and
the height of its summer, we found a great
difference in the relative temperatures of the two
places, the mean of the day being 47°, which under-
went a daily decrease for the remainder of the voyage.
As we continued our course, we felt the effects of
the southerly current in a more marked degree,
carrying with it sea-weed and drift wood in con'
siderable quantity, and the birds likewise became
more numerous : the Albatross had ceased to visit us
before leaving the Pacific, one species only (Diomedea
Puliginosa) had attended us so far; but their place
was supplied by a great variety of Ducks and
Divers, the King Eider {Anas Spectabilis) and Loon
(Uria BrumicUi) were for the first time seen.

F 2

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

■In

The Seals had likewise paid us their first visit,
and one of them was fired at and wounded. These
circumstances together with the increasing daylight,
afforded cheerful evidence of our progress, which
was still uninterruptedly good, although the weather
had become so dense, raw and foggy, that at times
we could scarcely see the ship's length ahead.
Early on the morning of the 25th, we were
fortunate in getting a glimpse of what we supposed to
be Gore's Island ; it was passed during a dense fog,
and with a fresh south-westerly breeze we shaped "a
course for King's Island, off the end of St. Lawrence
Island, which then bore N. 29, E. 156 miles distant.
The frequent use of the lead became now absolutely
necessary, and we sounded constantly each day in water
varying in depth from fourteen to thirty-seven
fathoms, fine sand and mud ; in one instance only
did we find a rocky bottom, near lat. 63° 11' N.
long. 168° 3' W. The navigation of the ship had
become a matter of no ordinary difficulty, and could
not but cause an intense degree of interest, not
free from apprehension, amongst us. The con-
tinuous foggy state of the weather had prevented
us from obtaining such accurate observations as could
be relied on, and the sun being almost constantly
obscured, we had but little to inform us of our pro-
gress, except the log line. Guns were fired at frequent
intervals to warn any ship of our approach, and as
the chart of this sea was considered more or less

ENTER THE POLAR SEA.

mperfect, the greatest care and vigilance were had
recourse to on board to watch for aught that might
indicate an approach to land: under these cir-
cumstances we still fearlessly stood on. On the
morning of the 27th, King's Island was faintly
visible about eight miles distant, where we found
a strong easterly current setting into Norton Sound.
We altered course a little more to the west-
ward, to keep clear of the land ; the soundings varied
from twelve to twenty-five fathoms, fine mud, and
broken shells— the first time the latter were met
with. At 11 P.M. still surrounded by the same im-
penetrable fog, and stiU speeding onward in the
darkness, we suddenly passed through a strong
tidal race into a smooth water, which from the noise
caused by the opposing wind and current, gave one
the idea of its being a well marked wateiy barrier
existing between two different seas. On the following
morning, Sunday, July 28th, at seven o'clock, we
quitted the northern limit of the Temperate Zone
crossed -that of the Arctic Circle, and entered the ,-
waters of the Polar Sea— an event joyfully hailed by
every soul on board. We were now favoured with
a clearer atmosphere than we had known for many
days, which was also less moist, and although cold
was pleasant and agreeable; the sea .had likewise
assumed a most tranquil aspect, and we had thus
entered on our new domain under auspicious ap-
pearances at least.

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

In the course of the day we exchanged colours with
two American whalers, which were apparently full
and homeward bound. Several whales were also
seen spoutmg at a distance, and the crang of one
(the name bestowed by the whalers to what remains
after the blubber has been removed) floated past us
on which myriads of sea birds were regaling them-'
selves. We were subsequently afforded ample
evidence of the number of these monsters fre-
quentmg this sea, which enables us to testify to its
excellence as a cruising ground for whalers ;. and this
IS, I believe, entirely in the hands of the Americans
The temperature of sea-water on entering the Polar
Sea fell three degrees in four hours, remaining a few
tenths above freezing point, which led us to expect an
early appearance of ice, that of air 41°. Depth of
water vaiyed from seventeen to twenty-four fathoms.

On the 28th, still favoured with a light south-
easterly wmd, we shaped a course for Cape Lisbmne
the proposed rendezvous, which then bore N. 25
■Ci. 51 miles distant.

The first issue of the warm clothing supplied by
Government for our use, was then made, embracing
one complete suit of blue double milled box cloth, boots
stockings, boot-hose, comforters, mits and caps; all
of exceUent quality, and well adapted for Polar service,
of this I shaU have occasion to speak hereafter.

Ihe days had now attained such a length, that at
the hour of midnight we had very good twilight.

H.M.8. ' PLOVER.'

the sun being but a short time below the horizon.
At 8 P.M. a sail was observed, bearing down towards
us which we soon recognized, gladly welcomed
ii.MS 'Plover,' and immediately communicated.
She could afford us no tidings of our Consort, having
just returned from the ice, which she sighted on the
27th, and afford us a most unfavourable account of
its state and condition, it being quite impenetrable.
As she had viewed it some three or four miles
distant, not deeming it prudent to make a nearer
approach, we were nothing daunted by the report
but mdulged in the hope that the reahty of mat^
ters would prove less appaUing than the description.
We took advantage of her presence to forward our
last letters and dispatches for England, then parted
company, and proceeded on our course. They
informed us that they were regularly supplied by the
natives with reindeer and birds, a large number of
which was suspended from the rigging, but we were
not afforded an opportunity of verifying their opinion
of the excellence of such diet.

Our men were now daily emp oyed in occupations
novel to many, in putting in order, and preparing all
necessary implements for ice navigation ; ice anchors
and chisels, hatchets, saws, whale lines, &c., were
all duly overhauled and got on deck in readiness for
use. The crow's nest had been hoisted to its aerial
position, at the fore-top-gallant mast head. This
weU known emblem of Discovery ships, and of others

THE N0UTII-WE8T PA»J»A(}E.

employed in the navigation of icy seas, from the novelty
of Its appellation may, fi.r the unprofessional render re-
quire a short description. It is in form like a baiTel
from which it is generally constructed, with a trap door
at the bottom sufficiently large to admit one person, and
IS hooded over at the top with canvas, so as to afford
protection from the wind to its occupant, who is
generally the ice master or mate : from this position
his observations are made on the state of the ice

The number of birds appeared daily on the increase
as we advanced, driftwood was obsemd also in
greater abundance, and the sea appeared full of
ammal life; I had the dredge overboard, and added
to my collection numerous specimens of the
Crustaceous and Acephalous animals.

On the morning of the 31st, when about twenty
n^iles distant from Cape Lisbume, a sail was observed
to the N.W. standing down towards us, when
opinions were freely hazarded as to the probabihty of
the stranger proving to be our long lost Consort, or
otherwise. The question was decided as the gay
ensign of St. George was unfurled to the breeze
and her number simultaneously flew at the mast head'
which speedily informed us that H.M.S 'Herald'
was about to join us. We soon closed, and as she
rounded under our stern in good style, she manned her
nggmg, and welcomed us with three hearty British
cheers, and one cheer more, to the Polar Sea-a
comphment we immediately returned, and pro-

H.M.8. 'HEHALD.

ceeded in company towards Cape Lisburno, tlicn
visible. Captain M-Clure presently went on board,
but soon returned accompanied by Captain Kcllettand
some of his officers, who manifested a great desire to
afford us every facility to our onward progress; and
off-ered all the assistance it wao in their power to give
as far as the 'Herald's' resources would allow!
We gladly availed ourselves of their proffered
assistance by completing deficiencies in our stores
and as we were still three men short of proper
complement, we received an equal number of
volunteers— strong muscular looking fellows ap-
parently well suited for hard service-and as we could
have no hope of meeting with another ship, we
dispatched a few hastily written letters— our last-to
England.

We learned with regret that nothing had been seen
or heard of our Consort, and having now arrived at
the rendezvous, there could exist no doubt that she
was stiU far distant behind us. Captain Kellett
informed us that it was he who advised Captain
CoUiiison to pursue the course which I have before
narrated, and which he himself had done for three
successive summers, the average passage being fifty
days to Cape Lisburne. It could not, therefore, for a
moment be supposed, that the ' Enterprize,' (a much
slower sailing ship than the ' Herald,') could even,
under the most favourable circumstances, have made
the passage in much less time ; nor did any of us

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

! ' t

believe it possible for her to have done so, despite the
opinion that was then advanced to the contrary

We received no orders from our senior officer
(baptain CoUinson) as to our course of action in the
event of reaching the rendezvous before him; the
pcMsibility of such a contingency occurring, evidently
had never been for one moment entertained We
were consequently obliged to adopt a coarse of
action for ourselves. One of two only were left for
us to pursue-either to remain at the rendezvous untU
the arrival of the ' Enterprize,' with the uncertainty
of then meebng her, owing to the foggy state of the
weather, and thus lose the season in the ice; or at
once proceed to the northward, and enter the ice
single-handed. We .^solved on the latter, and
cheerfolly prepared to encounter aU obstacles
^d dangeis, with a finn reliance on a mercifiil
Providence, and fuU confidence m our resom.es.
Never did any body of men enter on a hazardous
enterpnze with stouter hearts or finer spirit than the
brave crew of the • Investigator' then manifested, and
mamteined throughout every subsequent stage of our
eventful voyage.

did^l't f f "'.f .''""g"' «•" ««™r officer present,
did not feel himself justified in detaining us. From
this date, we formed an expedition in ourselves, and
parting with the 'Herald,' after an interohange of
comphmeritapr signals, stood in for Cape Lisbunie-
the 'Herald stUl in company astern of us

CAPE LISBURNE.

Cape Lisbume is a fine, bold headland, some 800
or 900 feet high, and is well represented by the
sketch in the published chart of this locality It is
of limestone formation, with a range of hills extending
to the eastward ; is conical in form, with a line of strati-
fication dipping at an angle of about 15° in a south-
eastern direction; but the more permanent headland
had the Ime of stratification nearly horizontal. The
hills were all surmounted by a mass of loose grey
sconse, and were separated from eaci ^ther by partial
gorges, which sheltered on either side, presented an
appearance of verdure that contracted pleasantly
with the general barrenness of its aspect. On the
top of the most elevated headland, which is likewise
the most southerly, a number of conical-shaped points
or pillars were discernible, partially enveloped in
mist, with masses of snow strewn about ; and this, from
Its fine bold appearance, may be considered the Cape
To the southward, the low, sandy promontory of
Pomt Hope could be seen, running parallel to the
range of hills extending eastward from the Cape, and
between which a fine bay intervened.

Our object in thus approaching so closely to Cape
Lisbume, was with a view of ascertaining if a cairn
or any other landmark, had been erected that might
m any degree affect the resolution we had arrived at
of proceeding onwards to the ice ; but nothing was
visible to afford any indication that it had been visited
at any period eitherr ecent or remote. We, therefore,

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Shaped a course at once for the ice, and stood away to
the N.W. ^ W., with a fine fresh north-easterly wind.
The ' Herald' stiU kept ominously astern, which did
not at aU contribute to our comfort ; for, it may now
be confessed, we still feared that Captain Kellett would
detam us, and that on reflection, he might see the
necessity of keeping us at least some days to await
the chances of our senior ofiicer's arrival; but as
the truth must be told, an opposite state of the case
was urged on him. Captain M^Clure maintained
that the ' Enterprise' was a-head of us, and in sup-
port of which, retained the private letters he had for
Captain Collinson for early delivery. The impossibility
of such being the case I have akeady shown-of course
no person could truly entertain an opinion to the con '
trary, and I am sure Captain Kellett had too much
sagacity not to see the true state of things This
I must confess we all rejoiced at, as we were anxious
to get on, from a general feeling entertained that our
Consort had neglected us. But he was evidently un-
willing to assmne the responsibUity of detaining us.

Our worst fears were excited however, when in
the evening we saw the ' Herald' make aU sail to-
wards us, and rapidly closing from her superior sailing
qualities, she mode a signal recommending us to wait
forty-eight hours for the ' Enterprize,' to which
Captain M'Clure signaUzed in return, «' Important
service. Cannot on my own responsibility !"

This not behig clearly understood, Captain Kellett

1 away to
ly wind,
lich did
aay now
tt would
see the
await
but as
the case
ntained
in sup-
liad for
Jsibility
course,
lie con-
) much
This
mxious
lat our
ily un-
us.

len in
lil to-
sailing
3 wait
which
irtant

:ellett

OUR EXPEDJTION. ^7

Med from the poop, desiring us to repeat the signal
which was accordingly done. She then gradually
dropped astern, made no further reply; and at 11.30

This afforded us an inexpressible degree of relief, as
we then considered ourselves free from aU control, and
the object sought had been attained. Such is a truthful
narration of the circumstances attending the bold pro-
ject conceived and acted upon, of entering the ice alone,
an event hitherto viewed by Arctic navigatoi. with the
greatest apprehension, and one which is certainly
attended with extreme risk as weU as great danger.
Hence two ships have always been sent on Arctic
Ji-xpeditions,for mutual succour and support,and for the
s^utary controlling influence, no less than the social
effect they cannot fail to exercise on each other, when
m company. Our expedition, from the period of
leaving England, was not a combined expedition, as
may be seen from the foregoing pages, although the
Adnairalty orders admitted of but one interpretation
on the subject, which ran as foUows:— "PTc deem it
right to caution you against suffering the two vessels
placed under your orders to separate, except in the
event of accident or unavoidable necessity."

Notwithstanding the positive nature of these
orders, 'Enterprize' left us twelve days after leaving
England ; and it was by the merest chance we caught
her in the Straits of MageUan-it being her intentL •
to sail the followhig morning. Hence we could feel

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

III

but little regret at losing the cc ripany of a Consort
that had hitherto proved so faithless. She
manifested a desire to get rid of us altogether, by
taking the 'Plover' with her into the ice, in lieu of
her legitimate Consort, had she arrived before us.
Under other circumstances, her loss could not but be
a matter of regret to us ; and I am sure I truthfully
represent the feeling entertained by my late mess-
mates— the officers of the * Investigator,' when I state,
that for Captain CoUinson and bis officers, we had
learned to entertain feelings of esteem and regard
from our intercourse when fitting out the ships'
The special character of the service, the mutual
interests existing, and that strong feehng which ever
exists amongst men engaged in a hazardous enterprize
had strongly bound us together, and it was to us a
matter of regret throughout the voyage, that the
conduct of our Consort was so much at variance
with the kind feeling existing between the officers of
the two ships. In support of an opposite view of the
case, it may be stated that ships make a better
passage when not in company, which I am not at all
disposed to admit as a rule ; but assuming it were so,
it could not in our long voyage have made a differencJ
of more than a few days. This is a trifling cir-
cumstance, when compared with the good results
likely to accrue from that hearty co-operation
and mutual support, which ships in company can
afford to each other; and its necessity in Polar

Consort
She
tther, by
I lieu of
fore us.
t but be
uthfuUy
3 mess-
I state,
we had
regard,
ships,
mutual
ch ever
erprize,
to us a
at the
ariance
cers of
of the
better
i at all
2re so,
erence
g cir-
■esults
ration
Y can
Polar

POSITION ATTAINED. 79

We were all, therefore, naturally much elated at
the .„g„iar g^a fortune that had befaUen us t

had mfr'4'V'P''^ *•"= °"-y -^fortunes we

than ^ tif • ""'" '" ■""« •'""^ -^^ "•" --
than aU, that was expected bom m. We had now

attained a portion which the AdmmJty, ™d Z

most sangu.ne of our friends inEnglJ'4 h 1

ar^en ,y w.shed for, but the. exiLd little' pC

the 1st of August. We therefore indulged in the
He that, with such favourable prospects^befo^ S
and so tunely an arrival in the Polar Sea we
could not faa to do much towards advaudng Z
object of our noble expedition. ^

On the 1st of August, the breeze had fehened to
the force of a gale, and was not qmte favourable for us
but towards moramg it had entirely subsided ,^ h

ookmg out for the first appearance of the icei
the crows nest, therefore, was seldom without an
occupant; and as daylight was then pe:.istent "L™
was no pcnod of darkness to inteLpt ou^^ "T
or the anxious interest we felt, m houl rf

=eek repose. Th.s was to me, the most enjoyable

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

period of the day-all work on board had, of course
ceased-everything was still and quiet-the watch
only on deck reclining leisurely about, ready for
action at a moment's notice ; all, in short, hushed to
silence, save the low murmuring of the wind, and the
wash of waters from the ship's progress : it was there-
fore difficult to conceive that midnight had arrived.

As the sun approached the horizon, towards mid-
night, the aspect of the heaveni was truly beautiful
when at twelve o'clock, his lower lim^ partially
• dipped, and again slowly ascended on his course •
or rather, our orb revolving on its own axis
around him. The sky to the eastward, at the
time, presented a most splendid appearance— a wide
belt of refracted light extending along the horizon
resolved into its prismatic colours, imparted a degree
of beauty to the heavens I had never before wit-
nessed, and from the gorgeous and brilliant yet
varied tints of colouring so wonderfuUy displayed
to view, could not possibly be surpassed. The
moon, at the time, was rising slowly in the same
quarter, but quite obscured by the smpassing
brilliancy of the novel and beautiful phenomenon I
have mentioned, which can only be seen in this way
in the frigid regions of the north.

of course,
le watch
tJady for
ushed to
, and the
as there-
•rived.
^ds mid-
•eautifuJ,
partially

course ;
tTi axis

at the
-a wide
horizon,
t degree
re wit-
nt yet
splayed
The
e same
passing
3non I
is way

ENTER THE ICE.

CHAPTER IV.

Meet 'Plover' P,. '""P''^*"'^^ApP'-oach the Land-

iJai.„ers_ Boats tcwmg _ Encounters with the I-^

Record - Mounds -1 Shin ^'"-^'''"ding-Deposit a

mounas — fcjhip grounded — DifficultiPs nf «,
pos,t,„n-CoIvme River-Jone,-. Islands- "it to thL
Esqi..m.ui_ Interview _l„eid„,, Thl! ■ .

•he Ship_Me.. adopted ^l^l" ij T^J, ""^ J^' '»
Temperature of Air and Water. ''""-Progress-

"ict'Jwd^*"'' *''^"°™™S»f «'e2„d of August,
ice a-head was reported from the crow's nest-I

the white hue, then visible on the northeru horizon •
-d as, we advanced towards it, the sea preseZ lu'

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

aspect truly novel to the majority of us, as the de-
tached masses of ice, in forms the most picturesque,
were majestically floating down in our direction. As
we stood on, the breeze gradually became much
lighter, and the temperature fell several degrees— that
of air to 38°. The masses of loose ice became more
numerous, and in proportion considerably greater than
before. Large pieces coming in our course were
cleft by the ship, producing a slight shock, a
grating noise, and an equaUy strange sensation
amongst us, as the fragments having been partially
submerged, were dashed on either side, while the
breeze bore us steadily along.

The main pack soon became visible ; and chilling •
as was its aspect, I am not sure that we did not hail
it with a cheer. It was reached about noon, in lat
72° r N., long. 166° 11' W, And thus were aU our
ardent hopes at length reahzed, which caused a degree
of cheerful excitement amongst us not easy to be
described. It certainly presented a formidable ap-
pearance, for this lofty, impenetrable barrier extended
across our path in a line from N.W. to S.E.,
much heightened by the refractive power of the
atmosphere, together with the uniformity of surface
which ice generally presents from the fragments not
being entirely clear of each other, although it may be
quite navigable, and what is termed loose-sailing ice.
This, however, can only be determined on by a near
approach. We continued tacking to and fro in loose

WALRUSES.

the de-
uresque,
on. As
3 much
38 — that
ne more
ter than
'se were
lock, a
3nsation
martially
lile the

chilling •
aot hail
in lat.
all our

degree
to be

jle ap-

tended
S.E.,

of the

surface

its not

lay be

ig ice.

a near ,

t loose

ice until the edge of the pack was reached, which
was much more distant than we at first supposed.
Ihe mass had lost nothing of its heavy impenetrable
character on actually reaching it The wind having
become light and variable, as we had got into one of
the mnumerable indentations of the pack edge, we
might have some difficulty in extricating ourselves,
were it suddenly to change to the southward. It was
therefore, considered judicious to work the ship out
again, and for the rest of the day we continued
tacking along its edge.

We were surprised by seeing numerous herds of
^^^ImseBiTrichecusRosrmrus) grouped together on the
large detached masses of ice, drifted off from the pack
apparently asleep or basking in the sunshine. The
novelty of a sight so unexpected was gladly welcomed
and various and amusing were the opinions given by
he men who had never seen them before, as to what
they could possibly be, while they gazed in mute won-
der and amazement at the strange sight before them.
They did not exhibit any feeling of alarm as we
approached , one or two could be seen dropping into
he water, but it was not until we had got- within a
i^ yards of them, that, as if by preconcerted signal,
they roUed or tumbled into the sea, and for a time
became invisible. They appeared to live in perfect
harmony, and as they lay huddled together, a lazy
listless au- characterized the whole. 1 could not but ad-
imre the affection displayed by the dam for her young,

G 2

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

which were crawling on the maternal back as we
approached ; but the moment the mothers perceived
the danger, they seized them under their arms and
disappeared ; nor did we see them again at the surface,
until there existed no cause of alarm. We might
readily havj shot or captured several, and a six
pounder gun was loaded for the purpose, but was
not fired— one was, however, 'wounded by a rifle ball.
The meat of these animals is excellent, called by the
old sailors "mam. 6ee/ "-a supply of which would
have been not only acceptable, but very beneficial to
our crew ; and we regretted our not delaying a little for
what might have been so easily obtained.

For the next few days we continued following the
trending of the pack in loose sailing ice, in an east or
south-east direction, in the hope of om: turning its
southern extreme, and thus making way to the north-
ward ; but numerous were our disappointments, as
takmg advantage of every opening that was presented
we followed its course only to be arrested by the
impenetrable pack, at the bottom of the deep indenta-
tions so frequent along its edges.

At times we came heavily in contact with detached
pieces through which the wind did not enable us
to force our way. On the first occasion when it
became necessary to send some of our men on the
ice to assist us, great was the rivalry manifested as to
who should first touch its surface; but after a
considerable display of agility, the honour was

CURRENTS.

claimed by the Boatswain. The Walruses were still
very abundant, but as we proceeded to the eastward
gradually disappeared; the depth of water which they
frequented varied from 24 to 37 fathoms. Since
leaving Cape Lisburne, we ascertained that a current
set N. ^ W. about fifteen miles in twenty-four
hours ; and it became a question amongst us, how far
it would aid us, were we to proceed along the
northern shores of Siberia, and make our exit from
the Polar Sea vid Spitsbergen; but we had no
intention of trying the experiment, indeed, even
at that early period of the voyage, freely indulged
and expressed the hopes we entertained of quitting
Polar Sea by the more legitimate route of Barrow's
Strait and Baffin's Bay.

On the evening of the 3rd, the temperatms feU to
freezing point for the first time. Throughout the
day it varied much, together with sea water— from
eight to twelve degrees. Light ice formed on deck
and in the rigging; although the navigable season in
these regions is considered to commence about this
period, and in some seasons even much later.

From the general state of the ice, and the frequent
abortive attempts we had already made to get to
the northward, that had cost us much time and
trouble, it was determined to pursue a course
towards the American coast— thus, following the
trending of the pack edge, round its southern
extreme, there being every probability from the direc-

THl! NOBTH-WUKT PA»«4CE.

•■ Of tl,e wind«. that ™ter intervciK,,! between it
•no Uif shore.

On the ujorning of the uth, it W^w a gale from the
•ouii.-w.»,, which soon brought n. in sight of the
coast. Abom the same time a sail was observed on
our weather beam, standing to the westward, and
although the morning was foggy, she was suffieiently
near to enable us to recognise and exchange „umbe«
again w,th the 'Plover ;' but we were too anxious to take
advantage of the fair wind, to stop to communicate.
She was doubtless, cruising in expectation of the
return of her boats, which she had previously informed
u» had gone along the coast, with a view of ascertain-
ing the truth, concerning a rumour they had heard
of a party of white men being engaged in building a

^rlT K """' *" '^' ""'"'""''' ^bsequentlv
lound to be mcorrect.

We soon approached the land, that presented the
appearance of a continuous bank of shingle, having
an outwork of dark rocks hero and thero along thf
water s edge, near one of which on the coast north-
east of Pomt Franklin, (that takes its name from the
brave anu gallant officer of whom we wero in search )
we observed sevend momids. into each of which
poles wero inserted; to account for this strange
appearance our ingenuity was severely taxed. It
first, we supposed them to indicate provision depots,
but the mterproter pronomiced them to be graves,
.t bemg the .,t.m of some tribes of Esquimaux to

THE ICB.

mark tlicir places of sepulture .n this manner. We
were then pursuing a north-east course running for
Point Burrow, having previously sighted the Sea-
Horse Islands, and the various points of coast laid
down on the chart. At this time high, indeed, were
onr expectations, and ardent our hopes that ere many
hours could elapse the dreaded Point Barrow would
be rounded in safety. The passage around this well-
known and remarkable feature of the coast, had been
but recently pronounced impracticable for a ship,
by Commander Moore of the ' Plover,' in a published
dispatch to the Admiralty, the accuracy of whose
observations and judgment we were then about to test.
At 1 P.M. the ice was reported from the mast-
head, as extending right across our path, but
sufficiently loose to sail through. On approaching
we found it a stream of floe ice detached from the
main pack, but forming an ineffectual barrier to our
progress. We entered it with a fine breeze, and a
crowd of canvas, and after receiving sundry hard
knocks, and inflicting destruction on all the decaying
fragments that came within our reach, we again
entered clear water, and altered course more to the
north yard, following the line of ice.

During the remainder of the day, we were sailing
through a field of loose ice, but as the breeze had
fallen light, our progress had much diminished since
the morning. We anxiously looked out for the land,
which we had previously lost sight of j towards mid-

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

III

!'l

mght, It could be discerned from the mast-head:
the low Point Barrow far in the distance, but still
indistinct from the fog then rising on the eastern
horizon.

We had on this day felt considerably the effects of
the tides or currents, and in clear water streams could
be observed well defined by a rippling outhne. The
latter appeared to set at times in different directions
S.W and N.W., and at 8 p.m. we found it setting
steadily to the south at the rate of two miles Jv
hour; doubtless influenced much by the physical
aspect, not only of the land, but likewise of the
numerous projecting points or promontories, and also
the mdentations that the widely extended ice pack
everywhere presented; between which and the land
and through a highly picturesque field of loose ice a
light breeze from the westward still bore us along
Several Whales (Balc^na Mystketus) and Seals {Phoca
Vituhna) were seen during the day, and soundings
varied from 14 to 73 fathoms in mud and sand, with
broken shells at intervals.

Throughout the night we had kept away to the
N.N.E. and more off the land, which, early the
foUowmg morning, (the 6th) was still faintly discernible
Sailing through loose ice with a tide or current
at the same time setting us to the northward, with
greater force than was observable, we found our-
selves by meridian observation in lat 71° 35' N
long. 155° 12' W. We were thus farther to the

ICE SCENERY.

northward of Point Barrow than we intended to go
and to our great joy, had successfully rounded this
hitherto much dreaded point of coast, the alleged
impracticability of which we had then fuUy refuted
Ihe 'Investigator' then floated in strange waters
where no ship had ever preceded her, and commenced
the navigation of a hitherto unknown and unexplored
sea. '^

The wind had entirely forsaken us as the day
advanced, and we lay becalmed, surrounded on all
sides by loose ice, in which there was every probability
of our being beset, should a fresh breeze from the
south-east not come to our rescue.

The position from whence these fears were enter-
tained, could scarcely be supposed to have existence
m the frigid regions of the north, from the picturesque
beauty and loveliness of the scene which then met the
eye ; but when I say that ice and water alone contri-
buted to form the landscape, it must be equally difficult
to fancy that these elements could so closely imitate
true lacustrine scenery. We lay with all our canvas
set, hanging sluggishly from the yards on the
glassy surface of a sheet of watei some two or three
miles in diameter, apparently ice-locked. The sun
shone forth brilliantly, imparting to us all the
delightful warmth of his rays, and to the icy
regions in the distance, that peculiar splendour pro-
duced by their reflective power in a highly refractive
atmosphere. Masses of snow-white ice, in form

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

resembling little islands were interspersed around, with
intervening spaces of water. Numerous as they were
there was light sufficient to display the outline of each
as they floated motionless on the surface of the sleeping
sea, with the distant and uneven pack all around, form-
ing a land-like but ice-locked boundary, resembhng one
of our own northern lakes in its wintry garb. There a
vivid imagination might readily have taken a flight
far from the Polar Sea, in contemplating the icy scene
which surrounded us, the novelty of which was only
surpassed by its beauty.

We were then fairly in the pack, with a sea of loose
ice floatmg everywhere around, as far as the eye
could reach from the mast-head. It was our object
to make the land again if possible, and the obstacles
which then presented themselves were of no ordinary
nature. A light air had sprung up from the south-
ward, that compeUed us to tack to and fro in the
narrow channels between the floes. It soon after-
wards freshened considerably, and ultimately increased
to the force of a moderate gale from the south-east.
Our situation then became very critical, as the wind
blowing ofi' the land, and aided by currents, brought
all the loose floe ice rapidly down on the main body
m which there was but too much reason to fea^
we might become beset. We, therefore, took ad-
vantage of the breeze, anc' stood on our course to the
E.N.E., through heavy, loose fragments, but were soon
obliged to t^k to W.S.W, owing to the obstruction

1 1 «l

t-3 istm

A GALE IN THE PACK.

Offered by a great field of impenetrable ice, which, to
have come m contact with, might have been our destruc
tion. We continued working the ship close-hauled,
alternately to the N.E. and S. W., endeavouring to make
the land, and get clear of the perilous position in
which we were placed, from the rapidity with which
the ice was then setting down on us.

It was quite appalling to observe immense floes
coming on towards us, as we sped our way through the
narrow channels of water that separated them from
each other; some of which were almost magicaUy
closed as we approached them by the junction of these
ponderous masses, propeUed onward as they were by
the united power of wind and currents. It became
therefore, a matter of no small consequence, not only
to direct the steerage of the ship, but demanded
tne utmost alacrity and expertness in working her as
the delay of a moment might have been attended
with consequences fearful to contemplate. We had
the most convincing evidence how formidable was the
character of these huge floating masses, and what
the result would have been, either of striking them
or, stiU worse, of being caught in their embrace!
borne fragments it was impossible to avoid, and as
the ship struck them from time to time, the shock was
tremendous, and vibrated through every timber of her
solid framework-even endangering the safety of the
masts ; and it was only by an effort, that any one could
maintain his equilibrium on deck. Towards midnight

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

our satisfaction was great, on finding ourselves in
more open water, and in observing the floes less
numerous. At this time the loom of land was
reported from aloft. The force of the gale had
evidently passed. During its continuance, accom-
panied with rain and sleet, it imparted an appearance
of grandeur and wildness to the scene difficult
to conceive; but so perfectly ice-locked were we,
and so circumscribed was the area, that it could not
exercise its power. Its surface was barely moved by
a ripple; and anxiously did we watch for the shghtest
. swell of the sea, or heaving of the ship, as evidence
of our approaching the open water.

In the course of the following morning (the 7th),
the wind had quite died away, leaving us again
becalmed, and surrounded by heavy ice still drifting
to the northward. This was considered favourable,
as we hoped to find a greater space of water in
shore, and to reach it were making the most
strenuous efforts. All our available boats were at
once called away to tow— the first time we had recourse
to this tedious operation— there being only a few men
left on board to work the ship along the narrow and
tortuous channels through which we wended our way.
All cheerfully lent their aid, wherever it could be
available, to facilitate our progress, and free us from
our difficulties.

The boats were of great service, and never did men
work with more zeal or energy. It was quite delight-

TOWJNG.

ful to see each boat's crew exciting the other to
increased exertion, when they saw the slightest ap-
pearance of the stroke of the oar being less vigorous
than before, by some amusing, jeering observation,
generally received with a loud laugh, or a hearty
Cheer. Nor were we less occupied on board, it
requiring the exercise of all our skiU, not only in the
steermg, but m tacking and trimming almost inces-
santly to keep clear of the ice, with which, despite
our best efforts, we frequently came in contact. We
thus continued our slow advance throughout the day
when at 8 p.m., the low land of Point Drew became
visible to the N.N.E., five miles distant ; and about two
hours later, we had cleared the limit of the ice, and joy-
fully hailed our return to the coast, between which and
the ice there was then a considerable space of water

There was now a universal feeling of pleasure
expenenced as we found ourselves thus far in
an unknown sea, having escaped from the perilous
position we had been placed in during the few pre-
ceding days ; and as it was the first time we had come
m actual conflict with the foe, we had good reason
to be pleased with ourselves.

It was generally remarked that the character of the
ice was much more heavy than that generally met
with on the eastern side of the Polar Sea. A few
small icebergs were met with, formed in a great
measure from packed ice, that seldom exceeded thirty
or forty feet in height, floating amongst the floes

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Since rounding Point Barrow the water gained in
temperature, but steadily decreased in density, having
fallen from 1012 to 1008 in twenty-four hours, as
we approached the land; and it had likewise become
brackish and discoloured from the admixture of fresh
water flowing from the numerous tributary streams
along the coast. As the sun touched the icy horizon
towards midnight, he presented the most splendid
appearance I have ever witnessed, and one on which
the naked eye could barely for a moment rest, owing
to a dazzling brightness surrounding the disc. It
was free from those gorgeous and varied tints I have
previously noticed, and now presented one vast sheet
of silvery flame, illumining the horizon with a degree
of magnificence to be seen in no other region of the
world. It is one of those compensating sights icy
regions alone can furnish, as the beautiful effect was
entirely produced by the reflection of the sun's ray's
from its snow-white surface.

About one o'clock on the morning of the 8th,
having reached within three miles of the shore, the
depth of water being then only five fathoms, it was
not considered judicious to go much nearer. It
was then resolved to record our arrival off" this part of
the coast, and erect a landmark on the most promi-
nent point. Accordingly, Mr. Court (second master),
myself, and the interpreter were despatched in the
third whale-boat for this purpose. The morning was
cold, clear and fine as we approached the land,

ESQUIMAUX.

when, about a mile distant, we saw an object which
we thought was a beacon, and pulled steadily towards
It. Presently a second appeared in sight, and subse-
quently a third, which left no doubt on our minds
that we were approaching an inhabited land ; but
whether these objects were Esquimaux, or some of
our lost countrymen, created a feeling of extreme
anxiety amongst us, and our men gave way at their
oars even more lustily than before, that the question
might be speedily solved.

This was soon accomplished to our entire satis-
faction, by the three figures suddenly taking to flight
which left no doubt of their being Esquimaux; we
therefore prepared ourselves for this our first meeting
with these people, not knowing whether it might
assume a friendly or hostile aspect. The poor crea
tures still continued their flight, occasionally stopping
m evident amazement not only at our approach, but
apparently stiU more so at the 'Investigator' in the
offing; until, in one of their pauses, we stood up in
the boat, and held up our axms-the usual sign of
friendly intentions amongst them. We had no sooner
done this than they assembled evidently in con-
sultation, and answered the signal without delay
remaining stationary. ^'

We at once landed, and having called out to them
words of peace in their own language, we approached ;
they timidly met us, and in a few minutes we were
rubbmg noses—the customary mode of friendly

Sbss

SKawaeaa

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

salutation with them— about the most filthy race on
the face of the globe. We won their hearts by
presenting a Httle tobacco, and then commenced
conversation. They were cheerful and good humoured,
answered questions readily, but could not keep their
eyes from the ship, which was to them an object of
the greatest wonder. They had no word in their
language to express an object of such magnitude, and
from seeing her move, thought she was a great living
island. From the time of being seen, the ' Investigator'
had caused extraordinary consternation amongst the
tribe, encamped but a short distance, as they said, from
where we were.

We could not obtain much satisfactory information
regarding the ice, owing to their inability to compute
time, and their having no more knowledge of its periods
than what is expressed by the cold and hot season j
but we understood there would be open water on
this part of the coast for two moons. They had seen
the boat party from the ' Plover,' the previous year,
on its way to the Mackenzie — and this was all the
information we could obtain j no other white men
had been seen on the coast. Their trade is carried
on through another tribe of Esquimaux, with the
Indians, who are in direct communication with the
Russian Fur Company ; but they had never seen any
people like us before. They had only been there
a few days, having come a journey of five days
duration from the south, as they leave the coast on

POINT DREW.

SI ould v«u thcr encampment, and offered to procure
ZTjTrf """" "'^"^"^ '^"y " -th'the"
as one „f them drew a piece from his breast tha
to eat " contact with hia skin, and offered it to „

Having ewted a mound, in the centra of which

Torth ! "" P™"f ''■"^'' '^ f^^' '» "-^ -"agnotic
"orth; a gun from the ship told ns of their impatience
» our return, that advantage might be take If a
%ht favourable breeze which had then sprung „n
We^ade the Esquimaux a friend., adieu, an'd in'vitTd
them on board-some of our men again indulged in
the. taj for rubbing no.es. evidentifasc-r;;

witht' ?T '" "1°" ""' P'^"'<"'t<»y. the soil blue clay

wl int "''"P""' ^''P-"'P-'"1 f~- 'en t' ,
twelve mches aeep; ,t was found frozen about fifteen

nehes from the surface. The country appea^d g^Ie
with occasional pools of water interspersed over I

find a t M ^ ""P' ™ "^^^ ""«='' ^"^P^ed to
Esanil u"' """^ ''°'" "'""g^'de, and seve«d

Esquimaux on board, both men and women who
had arnved d,m„g the period of our absence xley

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

were a lively party, appeared wonderfully surprised at
what they saw. Nothing seemed to excite their
admiration so much as the gong which was beaten
for their amusement ; and some of them went up the
"gging quite fearlessly as if accustomed to it. We
distributed presents amongst them consisting of
knives, scissors, beads, and tobacco ; they gave us in
return a few skins, and some articles of dress, coats,
mits, &c.' Bows and arrows, with barbed ivory
spears, appeared plentiful, and with that ardent
desire for novelty which sailors ever exhibit, they
met with ready and liberal purchasers. They took
their departure evidently much pleased with their
reception, having promised to be friendly to any white
men hke ourselves who might visit their country.
The baidars appear well adapted from their hghthcas
and buoyancy, for river or shallow water navigation,
such as the coast presents. They are flat bottomed,
constructed something in the form of a yawl, with
skins from which the hair has been removed, over a
frame work of wood— when this cannot be procured
whalebone is substituted. They are in length about
twenty-four feet, with a breadth varying from three to
four, with seats across as in our 07'n boats. They
manage them with much skill and dexterity, and the
paddles which are always in the hands of the women,
propel them with great celerity through the water.
They had not long left us when a second party came
alongside to barter, but were much more timid than

ESQUIMAUX. gg

opened, in which ,h t , ''"''" "'"' ■" »n<=e

tenacit in :X X ^^w/'^^ ~- "n"
presents, and they left T . ""''" """" '»™«J

in-p-sed With I': :?:fr;irr '"™™^

evinced nothing whatever „f„7„- n ?""' "" *'^
desire of gain In/!!. ^ ""^'^ "'"^''"- = "le

The winTwrvr"!: *° '"""^^^ *"-•
^equently very dl 7. °" P"^'''' '"'» "O"-

people who stepped onToldlnr V*' '"" »'

if accuston^ed fship vi«iti" "2^"'*'"^ ' "
their obiect whi.h , ■ ' *" '"'' evidently

Tobacc^td't^teTZTtriTf "^ """"'^
P-ed. It wa, singnirt wi:::'V:t "'"^
r' *% manifested on aU occi /l™;

eare to acknowledge on our part thenVhtJ ^
ship— numemii. .„j • '"""Sht of owner-

—rr ortheTZ ::r::: t^'^
w purc;rd,'i:is: "" "'"^^ ^"'*^ ^^

a" engaged, and r:ritt\r:~:---
- Whom, I believe, a similar trierrptlri

H 2

100

THE NOllTH-WRST PAS8A0F.

ultirnntdy it pnsscd into tlic hands of ft third pnrty.
Ilnving been thrice sold at more than treble its value,
it imd rciiliseil u handsome profit for its owner. The
circuinstance was not discovered until the two first
pm-chasers came to look for their property, which
uftbrdcd nnicli amusement j and the boats having
previously left, there was no redress. Indeed, we
all required to exorcise the utmost vigilance, os the
Esquimaux made every possible attempt furtively to
regain what had previously belonged to tliem ; and
no doubt could exist as to their strong thievish
propensities.

The women had their infants with them ; but a
casual observer would fail to discover them. Their
presence was only revealed to us, when the mother
carelessly untied a cord which encircled her waist,
allowing something, which we supposed was an article
for barter, to slip down her back, and hfting the short
jerkin which covered her body, seized it with the
right hand, drawing forth by the feet a naked infant;
adroitly giving it a turn, she placed it on her knee, and
covered its body with a little fur jacket similar to her
own. The poor little thing could not have been more
than six or eight months old. It never cried in the
least at this rough usage, but sat in perfect quietness on
its mother's knee ; and how it remained there I could
scarcely conceive, for in the eagerness of barter it was
entirely unheeded. In due course, the infant was di-
vested of its little covering, and placed in its former

■"^^■t

KHQUIMAUX WOMEN. jQ^

position, on the, .other's back. tl,o cord tied and

J^ToT^r '"'''" "''"•' ™"'™'''' -o-"™ only,

nr^^- 1i """"'"''' ""'' •""■^ intelligent ex-
proton than we had aeen other, of their se'poss^ .

.nallt rT '''^P'''y °f "''-f"'— . conversing

"er„ro :L— T'^r^*- ^"'-^

submitted "'^rtainmg the.r stature, they readily

Z^T^ { """""""« "'«■»• ^'hich appeared to

afford he™ n,„el, „™use,nent. They were fioed on
the eh„„ having a vertical line about half an inch broad
.« the cent,., extending from the lip, with „ pa^„S
namwer one on either side of it, „ lit„e ap^ Ime
had two vertical lines protruding from eit'er angle of

ofmanud t' "?'"'"'^'»''-g 'he great amount

oJ manual labour to wh.eh they are subject, were beau
■fn lly smaU and well-formed-a description Z;
«Pl.hcable to their feet, and their teeth, whi e 2
regdar, were displayed to considerable aivl 1 "„

«.earty^aughi„ which they fre,„e„t,;::X"
AS these women formed a party of themselves
UBaccompanied by men, they' deluded 71'
pohteness and gaUantry. We ma<le each of th^m

102

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

presents, with which they seemed much pleased.
One of them was good enough to present me with
one of their Fetishes, an ivoiy badge which the
i^sqm„,aux ever carries with him in his hunting and
lishmg excursions, as the only power they acknow-
ledge of being able to afford them success ; for I
regret to say, they are utterly ignorant of the existence
ot a Supreme Being. It is about four inches long
and has generally some rude carving of birds or
ammals on it. They left us with every demonstration
of friendship, and paddled their baidar with great
alacnty to the shore. We observed that the knives
they had were made out of files, which we presumed
were obtained in trading with the Indians. Some
of the men had labrets, a disgusting ornament worn
on the lower lip.

The wind still remaining light and unfavourable,
we contnnied working the ship to the eastward,
between the ice and the shore, in water varying from
nve and a half to three fathoms. The latter codd not
be approached within two or three miles, as the ship's
draught of water was upwards of fifteen feet. The
difficulties of the navigation may be easily imagined
we having no charts with the soundings marked to
guide us ; the ice on one side, and the lead-line on
the other were all that we had to depend on.

At 8 P.M., when working up for Point Pitt, which
bore S.S.E., ^E. the ship took the ground, the water

POINT PITT.

103

havmg suddenly shoaled to two fathoms and three
quarters and plentifully stirred up the mud ^
was a soft bottou,, ^p,^,,^^ J^^ situlnta^

thmg to be feared was, a sudden change of wind
bnngmg the ice down, which was then olZj

2jt T ^^P^^'io^^'y "s possible, and hove
on with all our available strength at th^ calten
»d we presently had the gratifiltion of seZ o^;
*rts attended with success, and the ship ait
_ As we approached this point, several conical-shancd

m bold relief, with a fine clear sky for a background
ieavmg no doubt in our minds as to their S
ongm, when contrasted with the uniformity of^W
fla surface everywhere areund. When about t^I'
mdes distant, Lieutenant CressweU and my^l^ ^Z
despatched in the second whale-boat to examinctC
On reaching the Point, wc found it dctachedTrem ire
mainland, a nan^w channel separating them,?hTsS
rather swampy, and vegetation less luxuri^t th^
elsewhere. The mounds that presented such X
appearance at a distance, graduaUy diminild £
comparative insignificance as we appr,^™Ied Tx

104

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

On examination, they proved to be nothing more
than Esquimaux store-houses for the products of the
chase, containing the bones of animals, with other
evidence of the locality having been at one time their
resort. Old traces of encampments still existed in
many places.

A mound of earth was erected, in the centre of
which we placed a board with the broad arrow
painted on its surface, and a record of our visit
deposited ten feet to the magnetic north. While this
was in process of erection, I proceeded to the oppo-
site side of the point, where I found an indentation of
the coast, forming one of its numerous crescentic-shaped
little bays. I was surprised at the vast quantity of
driftwood accumulated on its shore, several acres
being thickly covered with it, and many pieces at
least sixty feet in length, the trunks of fine trees. 1
made a hasty examinaticii with a view of discovering
any remains of a boat or wreck, but without success"
Our work being completed, we reached the ship in
safety soon after midnight. Our return was rendered
pleasant by contemplating the magnificent appearance
of the sky to the westward, tinted as it was by the
most brilliant crimson I ever beheld.

In the next few days, the difiiculties of the navi-
gation were much increased by the addition of fog,
together with foul wind and currents. We had not
even the land always in sight ; yet we crept along,
reached Harrison Bay on the 9th, when the altered

COLVILLE RIVEB.

105

appearance of the water, which had nearly lost it8
salme character, having only a density of 1000, told

ColviUe'"" ^'"^ '^^^'" ^^^ ^^'"'^'"^ °^ ""^ ^"^'
On the 10th, we were off the entrance of this
nver; and the wind which had increased to the foiw
of a gale, with rain and snow, was then anything but
acceptable, as we coiJd see but little distance before us
We were constantly coming in contact with grounded
P^ces of ice; the only evidence of their pmximity

Although the area of open water had then increased
ye we knew not the moment that our progress mighi
not be arrested by some hidden shoals in this un-
known sea. The temperature was barely above
Hwang pomt, usually ranging from 34° to 37° and
everything wore an aspect tempestuous and dreaW as

we still, surrounded by difficulties, continued on our
way. ^

Early on Sunday morning, the 11th, an island was
observed E by S. of our position, which proved to
be one of Jones' islands; and, as we approached,
something resembling a cairn, with a pole in its centre
was discernible. At 4 a.«., Mr. Court and myself
were dispatched, when about three miles distant, to
exammeit; and the morning being boisterous, cold
and foggy, we had a long and cheerless puU to its
shores. On reaching it, we found the island to be about
hve hundred yards long, and about half that in breadth

106

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

entirely composed of sand and shingle, with great
quantities of driftwood strewn on its surface, which,
together with the combined action of the ice and
currents had doubtless led to its formation. What
appeared to be a cairn when viewed from the ship,
was nothing more than a small pile of driftwood^
with a spar, about twelve feet long, placed vertically iii
its centre, which left no doubt in our minds of its
being the work of human hands. As we approached
in the boat, I fancied that I saw two figures in motion j
but distance and the fog then present did not enable
me to speak with certainty; nor could I discern any
footmarks on the sand in support of this opinion.
On ex&minmg a large piece of ice, some twelve or
fourteen feet high, which, from the efiects of pressure,
had been forced on the beach, its surface having the
appearance of being trodden on, with sand strewn on
it, left no doubt on my mind of there being Esqui-
maux in the vicinity.

After thoroughly exploring the island without any
satisfactory result, we erected a mound of earth, and
having deposited a bottle containing a record of our
visit, we took our departure and returned to the ship.
We saw numerous flocks of ducks at a distance, and
the several pools of water in the island were the resort
of the Little SanderUng {Calidris Armaria)— we shot
s« reral specimens. Soon after coming on board,
several Esquimaux were seen approaching the island
in baidars, who in all probabihty had been watching

BARTER.

107

ZZr '^""'""^ '^^'^ "»"«' "f »•« heavy
grounded ,ce in ,t, vicinity-confirming the opinioT
I had entertained of their presence. Tht we~
observed in swift pu„„it, ^,, ^ we C th"n
s an Jng out toward, the pack, we were in wS
ing ice before they reached ns. They were at oZ.
subject to the usual interregatories 4h ::; c^
the appearance of white men off the coast, but nothing

class of people than those met off Point Drew Thev
said that on hearing shots fired in the dire^tio?:'
he .sand, they m,mediately left their encampment
on the mam land, and proceeded to it, where they
saw our footmarks, and the ship in the offing. Th«
people supposed we had come for trading purposr
-d appeared to doubt our ven^ity when inWd
hat we were then in search of lost bi^the... whom
t% were desired to assist should they appea; on Z

Love of barter, and an avaracious spirit alone
prevaJcd amongst them, and they had evidLy ^Z

r W 1 'IT^'f •" *'"' *^y '■«<' ^ *- boats,
the best of which they concealed that the worst migh
be firs disposed of. We procured from them a^od
quantity of fish, wild ducks, a few furs, bowsTd

a^ws. he former wereatonceissued to thecre^.d
proved a welcome addition to their daily fare
Tobacco ,s an article much coveted amongst them, a

108

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

piece about two inches in length, was considered
equivalent for a fish, but observing some of us cut a
stick into two pieces, the wUy Esquimaux immediately
cut his fish into two portions, and offered them for
barter on the same terms. A dense fog coming on,
they were afraid of losing their way, and speedily
betook themselves to the shore, from which they
seldom venture to any great distance.

For the remainder of the day, we continued
working our way under the same adverse cir-
cumstances as before. Towards evening, the fog having
partially cleared off, a low flat island was observed to
the E.S.E. and as we approached, a number of
Esquimaux could be seen running to and fro in evident
consternation and amazement. We stood in as close
as we could, intending to communicate, in the hope of
obtaining a supply of reindeer; the number of people
justifying the belief that their encampment might be
on the island. It was considered judicious that every
precaution should be taken to guard against treacherjr
or surprise ; a cutter and whale boat were accordingly
manned and armed, in which Captain M-'Clure,
Lieutenant Creswell and myself, accompanied by the
interpreter, proceeded to meet them. As we ap-
proached, they made the usual signal of peace, which
we duly returned ; when we leaped on the beach, they
came down to receive us, and we had to go through
the customary operation of rubbing noses. They
manifested a friendly disposition, and informed us

JONEs' ISliAND.

109

that tlieir encampment was on tlie main land, so that
we ^ere disappointed in our hopes of procuring a
supply of venison. They were evidently in conduct
and appearance the best tribe of Esquimaux we had
yet seen ; they were also cleaner and better dressed.
Their chief, Attawa, was a fine specimen of his race
above the average stature and generaUy intelligent!
To him we entrusted a letter in a canvas bag. to be
forwarded to one of the Russian Fur trading posts
but were obliged to tell him its contents, before he took
charge of it-by way of reward for this we presented
him with a white ensign hoisted on a boarding pike
which had excited so much of the wonder and
admiration of his people, and made several presents to
others. We had before remarked how seldom it was
that we saw any articles of European manufacture in
the hands of the several tribes we had met with
and were, therefore, rather surprised to see a gun
with one of them, which was carefully wrapped
up m skins. On examining it, the words 'Barnett
London, 1840,' was engraved on the lock, and we
were informed they had received it in trading with
other tribes to the southward. Our conference had
been carried on close to a large fire of driftwood they
had kinaled on the beach, to which they had invited
us on our landing. When we left it, they escorted us
to the boats, where the friendly nasal salutation again
took place ; they at the same time promising to visit
the ship on the following day. with a supply of

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

venison. These people, like aU others we had seen,
were most astonished at the appearance of the ship,
and entertained the same idea of her being a great
living island. They watched us for some time, then
took their departure for their encampment; the chief
m the midst carrying the flag, with evident pride of
bemg the bearer of so valuable a present.

Our progress during the night being inconsiderable,
the island was still in sight on the morning of the
12th, when four baidars came alongside, fiUed with
men and women. They came on board, and barter
at once commenced, but instead of the supply of
venison they had promised us, all we could procure
from them were a few ducks, some fish, and skins of
an inferior quaUty-all those of value I observed were
kept m a mysterious looking leather bag, in strict
charge of one of their party in the stem of the boat.
Ihe majonty were strangers. That they are a
thieving, cunning race there can be little doubt, and
they would be equally treacherous and deceitful, were
their cupidity excited by anything in the hands of a
weaker party, notwithstanding the friendly demon-
strations they might evince. Although several were
yesterday the recipients of our bounty, two of
them made most adroit attempts at theft, by taking
articles of no less magnitude than the pump-winch
and an ice-anchor. Our observation was attracted
to this, by seeing a fellow stealthily leaving the
ship with one of the winches partially concealed

THIEVING.

Ill

His boat was immediately examined, and the
other was found concealed from view by
woman sitting on it. The thief was evidently an
accomplished one, for we were all closely watching
their conduct, and the sentry at the gangway had
special orders to that effect ; but their cunning and
dexterity had quite baffled us. The feUow who
attempted to possess himself of the ice-anchor, was
caught in the act, it being rather unwieldy (about'fifty-
six pounds weight) to move readily, but he was not dis-
mayed when detected. He was sent into his boat,
and not again allowed on board. They took their
departure for the shore, after continued attempts
at thieving obliged us to send them out of the
ship.

Considering it a desirable thing that some perma-
nent record of our communication with the various
tribes we had visited should be placed in their hands,
as proof of our having gone along the coast, for ou^
Consort or any other ship that might foUow us, I
suggested, on first meeting them, that the ship's
name should be stamped on aU articles we gave them,
as far as our resources could effect it. I accordingly
wrote it in large letters on the knives, with
some corrosive agents in my possession; and the
interpreter was instructed to inform them, that their
success in the chase would much depend on its
preservation. The carpenter (Mr. Ford) had also
very ingeniously made some copper medals, similarly

112

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

marked, for distribution, and had likewise with a
diamond written it on all the small looking-glusscs-
the latter being much prized, and an object of very
great astonishment.

Our progress to the eastward being much retarded
by bafflmg winds and currents, we seldom averaged
more than twenty or thirty miles a day. It may
therefore, be easily supposed how ardently we hoped
for a leadmg wind; and, as it fell calm towards
evenmg, fancied it might prove the harbinger of a
change. The boats were lowered to tow, bi t were
soon recalled, as we found the ice setting towards the
shore, and through this we continued our slow advance
We sighted another smaU island in the course of
the evening; and with the aid of our glasses saw a
numerous herd of reindeer, and several birds, which
from their size and appearance, I considered to be the'
North American Crane (Grus Canadensis), the first
ol either we had seen.

Since we advanced beyond the influence of the
ColvUle River, the sea-watcr had again become more
salmc, and risen in density to 1017. The temperature of
an- generally varying from freezing point to 40»-y„unK
ice formmg nightly on the pools of water

POSITION or snip.

118

CHAPTER V.

DifficultM ""'"'""-I""'"' A„x,rty-C,iticl Position-Our
Kefu "* If -r "r/ """"'^^ " -"-"—

Rai» and b11 E ? °" '^'^^^ Thnnder S,„™_

Sncce.? ...e dt" Vel s^ ^^ "f -■fe-Opera.ion,-
An Ice Scene-Tl, NTT^^rr "" '"'-'^PP'-nee-
- Incidents and Ob!eT ''"'«'-""''«<"« and Character
SkuIU-Shp herTn °°'~* "'" Track _W1,J«-

Progre,, brirtte t ^■"— R'^a«'i"n= - Incidents _

-tin;\'::t\LrB:;irr "™'"-"°''' °'

Onen Wnf^r n '^^°^*'"0"s— Appearance of Ice —

land-TowinglueTiT ' *'°""'^^''™«'er-M.ke .he

our Position-lta "d L tlTaL"^ rtfr'-T""" "'
-Alluvial DeDosifnn .'"^^^^"'^-Tidal Line-The Water

fiiver— Remarks. ^^oats — Mackenzie

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Our position on the morning of the 13th was by
no means improved. Our hopes of a fair wind had
not been reaUzed ; we were .urrounded by heavy
floe-ice, and through its intervening narrow channels
were incessantly tacking in vain endeavours to work
to the north-east. As we could make no headway,
and the weather towards noon becoming thick and
liazy, it was resolved to link our fate to a large
piece of fioe-ice, towards which the ship was
warped and secured for the remainder of the day.
Our first object was to obtain a supply of fresh
water from one of the numerous pools on its surface.
In one of them a small fish was procured, the water
bemg perfectly fresh, and the pool only a few inches
in depth, on the surface of a floe which averaged, at
least, thirty feet in thickness. It was probably
entangled while the ice was in formation.

We were all extremely glad to take advantage of
the exercise which this icy field aflbrded us, after
being so long confined on board, rou-h and uneven as
was its surface, for there was scarcely a square yard of
level space. We amused ourselves at archery with the
bows and arrows prociir d from the Esquimaux.
This was practised with a degree of zest equal to its
novelty, for, I believe, there was not an arrow
left in the ship in the course of a few hours. The
evening closed in gloomy, dense and foggy. The ice
to which we were attached having drifted very slowly
to the N.W., we cast off' from it on the foUowing

POINT ANXIETV.

morning, and made snil to NNW *(.„ i j-

in which wecoiddao ,1 .""""""''y '^'"»"'on

congealed ma.es c:Jy2^ZoJ:T'' !"*"«
« shoal was ohscrved S SI" p f ,, ^7"''» "«>"
« W sand bank, „„ ll' i, '""'' "'" f°™ »£
beeoming an island in ! '" P""*'' "f

We n.:„.ioneri;"rr riS^^^^^^^^^
"""'cs. We still stood on taekl f .'"""'

avoid the frozen barriers thlt',t^ """"""y «»
-hich we fre^nentinre L"! .;"°"""'^"''"'

«>"ld exist bu little .louuZ;™""' ""'' "'^™
meshes of the nac^ ! >, , "^"'^ "8"™ » "-e

-tting towards thele" '"' ""^ ^"""^
1'he depth of water varied fmm f

'^thorns and shoals were e::det,.t:el":: " "T
of the ice was affroun.' numerous, as much

■jeeoming more eiC: hJ' J^f '^^^\^-
tlie crow's-nest told that the h. , «Port from

on all sides. A low! ,, T''^""^ '""*''™<'''' »»

^- o». posii^r i reri"°"^'

whe.disceJb. dt::?"'^°"'^-«'-»^
likely to be furn shed Z T T "' ""^ ^'^
of navigating an u kni:; J^^f r"] "^^^"^^
position at this time Z off v T" '"*• °"
between Point Anxiei/^d te^'^-f ^"'^'-
niorablo narf r.f +k . ««tum Reef— a me-

^P-' of the coast, where the gallant Franklin

I 2

116

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

had some five and thirty years previous, cast his
longing eyes to the westward, in vain expectation of
succour, and from whence he commenced his return,
baffled in the hopes he entertained of reaching
Behring's Strait. That it was a Point Anxiety to us
likewise, we soon became aware, to the increase
of our perplexity. The water having been gradually
shoaling, we found ourselves in three and a half
fathoms, with not a shadow of hope of the pack
moving off on either side for the present ; our only
chance of escaping the danger which threatened us,
lay in our being able to round the northern extreme
of the island 1 have mentioned, and anchor under its
lee, until the ice afforded us an opportunity of getting
again between it and the shore, and clear of the
dangerous position in which we were then placed.
With a view of ascertaining our ability to accomplish
this, the second Master was dispatched to sound, and
I accompanied him in the whale boat; we found
water sufficient for the passage of the ship, and
returned on board with this pleasing intelligence.
The ship had been hove to for our return, sail was
made and we proceeded towards the main pack as
far as we could, so as to make a good stretch across
for the island on the next tack— a boat at the same
time sounding ahead of the ship— when from some
cause or other, having deviated a little from the
course indicated for us to follow, suddenly the ship
struck on a sand-bank and grounded in two and a

SHIP ON snoiiE.

117

top of a bank from the soundings obtained ahead, an

Istl"", "'t ™' ^^'"' ""'' '"'- ™ fr- the
Fers t,ng ,n this course, would only have increased
he labour and difficulty of getting her off, as we
tound . impossible to move her over the bank and
were only fi,i„g ^er more firmly in her position, it
opposite course was, therefore, adopted. We at once
s ortened sai,. anchors were laid ou't astern, and h^

iffioult to say what we might not be compelled to
do, or how prolonged would be the labour and
exertion necessary for again floating her, and as we
had been for five hou. incessantly af work, t bi::
necessary to refresh the men for the nigl t>s laW
now before us. A ration of bread, meat and spin"
was issued, and it being then ten o'c ook. fifteen

Te :Lr ir '"' ^^''"« "*-''™ »» S

were p ped on deck-with cheerfulness and alacrity
the call was responded to. officers and men we,^
n|.n actively at work, and no hand in the ship wa!

cast!o?tir?'T "." '"''' '""^'^""S of ""''y-five
h bo I \ "*"* ™'S'" ''"'^- "-"^ hoisted into
tended to r rr"'«"^ -"- "'^o taken out, which
tended to lighten her a little. While thus engagcl

118

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I !

the ice which had been for some time setting down
towards us in huge detached pieces, came in contact
with our cables, and then fairly on our broadside,
requiring the most strenuous efforts to keep them'
clear of the boats with the provisions, which might
have been readily crushed between them and the
ship. What was most to be feared, happily did not
occur— the main body of ice setting down— as we knew
that a slight impulse would determine it towards
lis, and the result under the circumstances would
have been our total destruction. Orders were now
i?iven to have all in readinesr for pumping out the
water, about twenty tons of which we had in the
tanks J but previously, the capstan was again manned
by all hands, and the powerful effort which was then
made, brought a cheering report from the leadsman
astern, that she had taken two inches of the line, and
had consequently moved.

This was sufficient encouragement to renew our
efforts, and after their frequent repetition, we had the
satisfaction of seeing success attend them, and our
good old ship once more afloat and lively as before.
Our labour was not then ended, the provisions,
anchors, &c., had to be hoisted in and re-stowed ; but
having experienced the effects of a strong south-
westerly current, it became necessary to set sail, to
render the ship manageable, and better able to resist
its effects which might again bring us into the same
difficulty. While doing so, the boats heavily laden

LOSS OF BEEF,

119

fathoms water. Wo i,„j iv , / ™

3344 lbs of »l » ! *"' '""* "° '«'« than

oviated had the suggestion of one of the Officers

i ;T ' / r-^ ""^ "<"" -* ^

ship but f ™"'" "'*" "• -'■"»''»'' »f «■«

xln If ■" ''""'' ""^ "»' - -»y power to
exp m„, this was not aeted on, and bitterly did we

untU4' , ,w " ™'*'™'^- I* was not
(-4^:;X.?L7'^*'''"\-^ -% on board.

o»fexer^rr:;;:s:rtrf-^^"^

witrd:;:;^^:::re:?f'^'^-^'-<''»

that of the few nrrr,.,; "'''"^ '■'"•"'"^ ^''h

n.i'^- bein;r:r jvi'r^^^^^

even in the height of ;/ *''^'^ '*g"">«

forth brillianSfir/—- ™-™ ^"one

which rendered ^„ Z ''"'°™' "^ ^'^"'l'
JJhtness.evenforaC^.htSirfe'lt

prisoner we then wel "I/f T.^"'' """^^

presented by the Ilw f ""'''''''' W^^^e

oy the ice was mueh heightened by the

120

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

wonderfully refractive power of the atmosphere,
which, added to the extreme fineness of the day,
produced an a,^pect of grandeur and peculiar beauty]
that, even in our then forlorn position, one could
not but view with feelings of intense admiration.
The large floe pieces detached from the main body,
presented a beautiful appearance from the spotless
whiteness of their picturesque and singular surfoce.
Such huge masses piled on each other could only
have been effected by the most colossal force. On
the more distant pack, refraction had exercised all its
distorting power, making it appear a lofty, impenetrable
wall of crystal, and, its outline, required but little
effort of the imagination to trace out the forms of
churches with towering spires, castellated mansions and
edifices of various kinds, reflecting from their icy sides
tints of iridescent hue : all produced by the larger pieces
of packed ice, thrown together by a power that sets
all human efforts at defiance.

We had not moved more than a few yards from
our position of the previous evening, unless slightly
to and fro by the partial currents which existed.
Indeed, it would have been highly dangerous to have
done so, from the shallowness of the water— only
three fathoms and three quarters ; or we might have
had a repetition of our disaster. We were still close
to the island we had discovered, when about 10 a.m.,
the Second Master, Mr. Court, in the third whale-boat,'
was despatched to sound, and endeavour to seek for

CRITICAL POSITION.

121

a pnasage that might lead m out of our unpleasant
position. On his return about noon, his report was
not eheenng ; and to run the risk of moving without
some definite plan to act on, surrounded by shoals as
we then were, with the ehance of the iee settin.
down on ns. would have been highly injudicious. One
ot two courses only remained for adoption, neither of
.which promised any cheering results. First, either to
attempt to retrace our steps through the heavy loose
ice we had so much difiiculty in passing the previous
day but which might now be impenetrable, with the
pmbabihty there existed of a change of wind setting
the ice o« shore, and immoveably fixing us in its
grasp ; or, secondly, to anchor even in the shallow
. water we were in, being in sight of the mainland, as
the my range of the Franklin Mountains were
diseermble, and await whatever change might occur
in he elements, to drive the ice off shore, and enable
us to get between it and the land once more, which
certamly appeared the mast advi,,able course for
adoption. About 1 p.m.. the Captain and the Second
Master proceeded in the third whale-boat, with a view
ct seeking „ passage, through which our escape might
be effected, but returned in the course of a couple of
hours with no better intelligenee-when it was finally
determined to anchor where we then were ; and the
best bower anchor was let go in three fathoms and
three quarters, thus to await whatever fate
befall us.

might

W ii

122

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

The progressive faU in the barometer for three
successive days, led us ardently to hope for a change
of wind with the anticipated change in the weather,
which we then anxiously awaited. Towards evening'
the clouds hung heavily on the windward horizon,
the sky became overcast and lowering, and had
assumed a highly electric appearance; and the air
was close and oppressive. This state had scarcely been,
estabhshed, when vivid flashes of sheet lightning shot
orth, preceded occasionally by thunder, neither
loud nor prolonged; rain fell heavily; and the
vane at the mast-head told us that the wind had
shifted into the south-west quarter. The lightning,
appeared to but little advantage from the presence of
the sun ; otherwise it would have been so much more
effective m heightening the wildness of the scene.
I could not but think that lightning with darkness
in these regions would have presented an appearance
of rare grandeur. With this change of wind, the
temperature of air rose from 34° to 45° • and the
water, from my last examination off" Jones' Islands

1025 '" *^'' '^""'^ '^'''' '"'"''"'''^ ^" ^'""'^y *^

On the morning of the 16th we were stiU at
anchor, the contiguity of the ice preventing us from
taking advantage of the fair wind which had fa-
voured us but for a short time, when it gradually
died away. It had, however, set the inshore ice in
motion, and materially altered its aspect-the loose ice

DIFFICULTIES.

123

wa, nothing TZllZ r """"'' '"^^
packerf ip. w ! '"^''y """penetrable

tage of the change, and endeavour to reeain tl.„
»ore .f possible The anchor was weighefand t
boats cdled away to tow_a work of no light ^atl
under the c.c„n.stance3-and by their afd w ^

became so close and neavy. and the channels of open
water so narrow, that the continnance of the toX"
be ame .^practicable. The boats we,., theX

^nner and been further refreshed with an extra allow!
ance of sp.nts tl,e struggle was again ..newed. tL
pieces of .ce then around us were so large and pop
derous, that naany of them had grounded; between

section of the pack, we,, smaller pieces floating
and amcst enti«,ly obstructing the Harrow chan,S
of water, that rende,.d other operations nece Zv
for our advance. We, therefore, commenced fo^
a passage by boring and warping the ship thigh'
tl.em. Ice anchors, poles and hooks were had
~e to; the former laid out and well secured
.n the ,ee, were hove on from the capstan, the p".^
and hooks, at the sa,ne time, were in req;isition t!
remove the smaller floating pieces that reS do
snaU-hke progress, while the Ice master, from the

124

THE NOnUI-WEST PASSAQE.

crow s-ncst, directed us into those channels or leads
of water whieh appeared to present the greatest
faedifes for getting dear of our very awkward nosi-
tion. Thus we advanced through narrow, zig-zag
channels, none of whieh were sufficiently lar °c to
admit a boat even without oars ; and through narrow
passes where the ship was forcibly thrust by
he united power of us all. We, at len^'th, got within
thirty or forty yards of water much clearer than
any other space that could be observed around, but '
with little hope of our being able to reach it, from
the heavy and closely packed character of the ice
which was still setting down and eurtaiiing yet
further its already veiy limited area. Our difficulties
then, indeed, appeared to augment as we gazed on
the msuper..blc obstacles that lay in our path; but
we went boldly and resolutely to work to grapple
with them, and by a patient and persevering use of
the means I have spoken of. and the zealous, ener-
getie efforts of all, v.e had, at length, the satisfaction
of seemg our exertions attended with the success
we had hoped for, but could scarcely have expected
alter seven hours incessant toil.

We had reached a small space of open water,
tl. ough which the ship was then waiped, by layi,,:
out ice-anchors, until we had got as iiir as it the,!
seemed ju.lieious to advance, and made fast to a
huge mass of snow-white ice, grounded in four
fathoms water, yet from fourteen to fifteen feet

-zag

AN ICE SCENE. JgS

high from the water's edge-the effect of pressure
having thus forced it much above its line of floata-
tion. It had a surface of about half an acre in extent
with a remarkably fine imposing outline; and here
we rested after our recent conflict, being then unable
to make further advance.

The evening was mild, clear, and serene, with not
a breath of air, and the lovely yet frigid scene around
us appeared to wonderful advantage ; for an ice-
bound sea presents, at times, features of peculiar and
picturesque beauty, such as can only be seen in the
cheerless regions of the Polar Ocean. There was a
deathlike stillness and solitude, but associated with
subhmity and grandeur reigning everywhere around
as I walked out on the ice and gazed in admiration
on the icy scene before me. But there we were
surrounded on all sides by regions of frozen water
shut out apparently from that arm of the sea that we
yearned so much to reach, without any visible hope
of escape, unless the aspect of affairs should wonder-
fully alter. The numerous inequalities of surface
and irregularities of the pack added variety to its
beauty; many ice islets floated about, and one
not of a different character, lay in our immediate
vicmity. They were beautifully reflected in water of*
a mirror-hke smoothness, apparently forming the
margin of a great a^thereal basin, for the canopy of
heaven with its rich blue sky, lofty and well-defined
Cirn, found there an equally truthful and picturesque

126

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

reflection, and appeared as if contained within
It. But what a peculiar feature the presence of our
ship imparted to this scene as she then lay
secured to a gigantic mass of that element
which had lately so often endangered her safety!
She appeared as if a captive in its icy grasp, as no
trace of our entrance into this isolated pond, nor any
path whereby to effect our exit, was anywhere to be
seen. So rapidly was the ice setting down on us,
that we determined to remain in our present position'
without attempting any further effort to advance ,'
indeed this would have been utterly futile, until the
morning, when we hoped for a fair wind and more
open sea to facilitate our onward progress— the delay
likewise affording us that rest, so much required,
after a day of most laborious exertion.

Our contiguity to the island which had not been
far distant at any time for the two previous days
induced some of us to forego sleep and explore it.'
From the great number of seals we had seen, we
concluded that fish was plentiful ; and, with a vie'w of
procuring some, we resolved to haul the seine. The
third whale-boat, with a crew of volunteers from
the ship's company was sbon manned, the fishing gear
in readiness, and a party of us proceeded to the
shore. On landing, we kindled a huge fire of drift-
wood; some commenced preparations for fishing,
while others proceeded to explore the island, and took
our guns in expectation of meeting with some of the

NEW ISLAND.

127

numerous flocks of ducks that had been observed I
found this island, Hke others I had visited, entirely
composed of sand, shingle, and driftwood; its greatest
elevation was not more than six or eight feet above
water, its outline irregular, about three or four miles in
circumference ; in the centre was a lagoon of shaUow
water, and the beach was slopii.^, with the greatest
elevation near the water, from the pressure of the ice
forcing up the sand. The water was most shallow on
that side nearest the coast of America, with which it
will,m the course of time, doubtless, become continuous
It was quite devoid of verdure-a few tufts of saxi-
frage and stunted grass, the only trace of vegetation.
Ihe pebbles were chiefly of granitic character, with
porphyry, clay-slate, mica-schist, ironstone, &c., aU
smooth, and much water-worn. We found two
crania of whales, one lying on the surface, and the
other partly imbedded in the soil; saw traces of
foxes, and came on the recent track of a bear, where
he had been feasting on the body of a seal but a very
short time before. These we followed up in the hope
of meeting with Bruin, as they were the first traces
we had met with ; but he had betaken himself to the
ice. We came on a well-trodden bear path, which
led us to suppose this island was a frequent resort of
these hoaiy denizens of the north, with some of whom
we longed to have an encounter. As it was approaching
midnight, we retraced our steps towards the boat-the
blaze of the huge fire burning brightly in the distance

128

THE NOBTH-WRST PASSAOE.

nffordinnr us a good guide across the sandy waste, on
which the foot of man had never before trodden
Tlie fishermen had no success ; and we had only shot
a few Ducks, the Eider ai d Long-tail.

We soon embarked, and proceeded to the shin
distant about half a mile, uiid found a film of ice on
the sea, which was the first appearance of salt water
freezing we had seen, and evidenced an advancing
season ; its density was then 1014. The air had
become cold, dense, and humid; and it was sur-
prismg the distance the voice could be heard, through
an atmosphere that had become wonderfully re-
fractive, distorting, in a surprising degree, every
object in our view.

At 4 A.M. on the 17th, the ship was cast off
from the floe, and we again commenced our advance
by warpmg as before ; but in the course of a couple
of hours, having only made a few yards, the weather
had become so foggy r.id the ice so close, that it was
mipossible to proceed, and we again made fast to a
floe to await a more propitious state of things
Large quantities of ice having set down during the
night to the north-west, we expected to find that
which was the day before quite impenetrable, now
loose sailing ice— but as yet in vain.

So fettered does the aspect of aff^airs become in a
short time from slight causes in ice navigation at- this
season of the year, that the delay of a few moments
may cause a ship to be immoveably fixed in drifting

IMPROVES PROSPECTS.

145

fragments or a section of the pack without any means
of escape ; or, on the other hand, a change in the
wmd or m the direction of the current, may in an equally
short space of time cause such an alteration in the
character and disposition of the pack, that instead of
an appearance terrific and formidable, loose streams of
ice become detached, and narrow channels of water
formed-so varied and ever . .rving is its aspect.
Ihus fond hopes are indulg d in, or,'y to be bhghted,
and the bitterness of disap )o:.tmeyr keenly felt, that
the germ of reviving hope ny,y be more gladly
nurtured and made welcome when it comes. Feelings
of anxiety, hope, joy, disappointment and terror, often
follow each other in rapid succession, and thus keep
the mmd in a state of constant excitement. Ice
navigation is, therefore, the school for testing the
powers of patience and endurance, and calling into
activity all the perseverance, energy, judgment and
danng that men are possessed of.

As there was every probability of the ship bein^
momentarily placed in such a position, that the rud!
der might become damaged or rendered useless by the
pressure of the ice ; the crew were practised in unship-
ping It, so that on any sudden emergency, they might
accomplish this with dexterity.

About 2 P.M. we weru again under weigh, and
made sad with a light variable wind from E.N.E.-the
ice havmg become sufficiently open to admit of our
making a few short tacks to clear the island. In the

145

!'! (

If!

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

course of an hour, tne wind to our great joy veered
round to the north-west, enabling us to pursue a
course to E.N.E., the water at the same time
increased in depth to six fathoms, and the change we
had so anxiously looked for had at length taken
place. The pleasure which we all derived from
havmg the ship under canvass as a propeinng power
the first time for the previous three days, became
enhanced, as she made good way through a loose
,pack with a favourable wind, in water as smooth as
a pond. Thus a formidable barrier that existed
but a few hours before, and one which no earthly
power could overcome, was now happily removed by
that Dmne power who wills the course and might of
aU elemental forces, and cheerily did we the. wend
our way through heavy packed ice, heartily ^rateful
tor that mterposition which had enabled us^ to do
so.

We continued our progress for the remainder of
the day, the impediments still diminishing; the ship
occasionally sustaining some heavy shocks as the
ice came across oar path, causing all the beUs
to nng. This was then a source of amusement,
elated as we were at our happy deliverance, par-
ticularly on custmg a glance astern, and beholding the
position we had occupied-an uninterrupted field of
heavy packed ice. in which we would have inevitably
been beset.

Several smaU islands were passed in process of

THE MAINLAND.

147

formation; some a few feet above water, and others
just appeanng above the surface ; shoals evidently
abounding on all sides. Evening closed in with a
change of wind to a still more favourable quarter
south-west, which had the effect of setting the ice off
shore, and consequently of increasing the a.ea of
open water, and of further favom-ing our progress
to the eastward.

On Sunday the 18th, the weather had become
loggy with occasional rain and sleet, the usual con-
comitants of a south-westerly wind; several small'
islands were seen, and about 10 a.m. we passed that
beanng the name of ' Flaxman,' discovered bv the
brave Franklin in his early exploration of the coast of
America. Towards noon, the low coast of the main
i«nd was to our great satisfaction again visible, with
a lofty range of snow-capped mountains in the
distance ; the sea was everywhere clearer of ice the
wind was steadily freshening, and there was eveiy
reason to hope that we were on the confines of that
expanse of water which that accomphshed and dis-
tmguished Arctic traveller. Sir John Richardson
mentions, as extending off the coast in the vicinity
ot the Mackenzie river every summer. High were
our hopes, and ardent our expectations at the
tavourable circumstances that now enabled us to
shape a course for Banks' Land; and as its western
hmits were unknown, none could say how soon it
might be reached, the ship going seven and a half

K 2

148

u'i

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

knots. The pleasure we then experienced com-
pensated us for all our previous anxiety.

There was, at the time the course was altered
• tor It, a gentle heaving of the ship-a sure
mdication of a large expanse of open water before
us, and It had gradually deepened to sixty fathoms.
The masses of floating ice we had passed during
the day, appeared to have assumed more of an
architectural character, so accurately as almost to
afford evidence of design-tunnels, columns, facades,
pediments, and temples, which in the accuracy of
their proportions would have reflected no discredit
on a rising architect. Grottoes too there were, so
beautiful, as if nature had exhausted her best skill in
their formation.

The morning of the 1 9th wore a wfld and gloomy as-
pact, for the wind had freshened to a gale, and changed
more to the westward ; snow fell uninterruptedly
and more than aU. we had again encountered the
pack, then ninety mUes from land, with immense
floes mtervening, and could obtain no somidings in
1 95 fathoms. We still, however, pressed on wherever
the slightest opening appeared, and were graduaUy
gettmg farther into the meshes of the main pack
untJ at length our progress was arrested, and a
urther advance became quite impracticable. The ship
had already sustained some heavy shocks, and
brought up, with all saU set frequently, in our
endeavours to penetrate and force a passage through

PERILOUS POSITION.

149

the loose stream ice that lay in our waj. It was
therefore, quite impossible to pursue our course and
we stood along the pack edge ready to take advantage
of any circumstance likely to favour our northerly
advance. But our position had become very perilous
owmg to the certainty of being beset, on the least
change of wind to the southward, for all the heavy
floes, which had streamed oflFfrom the main body of
ice, were in motion and would speedily have closed
the narrow channels of water in which we moved
and fixed us in an everlasting grasp, should a worsJ
late not instantly have befiillen us.

It was quite evident we had run on our northerly
course into one of those deep indentations of the ,a
so frequently met with, and had penetrated as f;r as
It was possible; as the ice master could not observe
from his aerial position, a trace of water throughout
the wide extent of the dreary .vilderness which lay
exposed to his view. Our attempt, therefore, to
reach Banks' Land in this direction having failed
the only course left for us to pursue was to follow
the pack edge towards the mainland, where our
chances of effecting more might ptobably be greater
could we reach the kfiown longitude of its northern
outline; besides which, we were escaping from a
critical position, where in a moment our efibrts might
have been irretrievably paralyzed. We therefore kept
away to the south-east ; and later in the day had to
pursue a southerly course, to keep clear of those

150

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

formidable barriers which opposed our progress, but
with whose colossal power and might we dared not
attempt to cope, having so often tried it in vain. The
deep sea lead was sent down in ninety fathoms
but obtained no soundings ; the temperature was found
to be 29-5 J but towards midnight, having been
rapidly approaching the coast, we got soundings in
twenty fathoms— mud, and we were getting once more
mto a more open sea : our anxiety to reach which was
great, as the vast floes we escaped from were all
closmg on the parent pack, and we could not but
feel deeply grateful for that Providential goodness
Thich had again safely delivered us from our perilous
position of the moniing. This ice was unanimously
pronounced the most stupendous we had yet seen-
from Its heavy, terrific appearance, it must have
been the growth of ages ; and, was doubtless, that
pack which extends uninterruptedly from shore to
shore of tlie Polar Sea, except where the presence of
land may intervene.

Night closed in with the same wild, tempestuous
aspect as the morning— cold, raw and foggy. The
temperature of sea^water had fallen to 29°, !nnd that
of air ranged from 33° to 34° ; the decreasino-
density of the water 1010, told us of our coming
withm the influence of the Mackenzie River. As
there was then some hours of partial darkness
the absence of the sun rendered cveiythii.g more
cheerless.

SIGHT OP LAND.

161

Early on the morning of the 20th, after having
sailed through seventy miles of heavy floe-ice, a low
pomt of land was observed to the southward, with
the range of Buckland Mountains in the distant
background, but it was was soon lost to view from
the dense haze formed over it. Towards noon there
bemg an appearance of open water to the northward
we agam stood towards it, unwilling to relinquish our
cherished hope of reaching Banks' Land, and stiU
anxious that no opportunity should possibly escape
us of forcing a passage through the ice, if this was in
the power of human efforts to effect. We had not
proceeded far, however, when the same impenetrable
front presented itself, and sailing through loose ice
against which we struck heavily from time to time,'
we again found ourselves surrounded on all sides'
The wind having fallen light, as it generally did, when
we were advanced in the pack, our progress became
qmte arrested, and we were drifted in a current found
setting to S.E. A calm subsequently intervening
the boats were lowered to tow, and continued doing
so for four hours, counteracting in some degree the
power of the current. They led us round a pro-
jecting point of ice, where the water appeared more
open, we having been obliged to do this with the ship's
head to the south-west-diametrically opposed to our
course. It would have been injudicious to exhaust
the strength of the men in towing us further in a
retrograde course, and we had reached a position

152

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Where we might for a time anchor, at considerable
nsk It IS true, and hope for a breeze before morning
which would do more for us m an hour or two than
the prolonged eflPorts of the crew throughoiU the
night. The boats were accordingly called alongside,
and a kedge anchor let go in seventeen ar^d a half
fathoms-mud. We were still on the edge of the
pack, and in the midst of ice. Every precantion wa,
consequently taken, in tho event of our being beset
or m our position becoming more critical during the
mght, that the pi : per m-ms to obviate either might
be at ODce had recot^rfui to.

Thus again bad i; c completely failed in attempting;
to penetrate tlie pack, and shape a course for Banks'
Land, which, after repeated, toilsome, and hazardous
tnals, we fcnmd an utter impossibility from that part
of the Polar Sea. No earthly means of any magni-
tude or power, aided by all the best appliances of art
and guided by the judgment, ingenuity, and best
energies of man, could avail in the slightest
degree, m surmounting the overwhelming obstacles
which, on these occasions, opposed our progress It
was to be regretted that we had again lost our fair
wind, which we calculated would ere this have taken
us to the eastv/ard of the Mackenzie, as well as much
valuable time, by running into the pack, and making
another fruitless attempt to proceed to the northward
alter the experience we recently had ; but our motive
in domg so was a laudable one, and we consoled our-

GARRY ISLAND.

153

selves with the reflection that we had left nothing
undone. Although we did not obtain success, we
fancied that we deserved it.

For the few preceding days, we had been quite
forsaken by all the feathery tribe, whose frequent
appearance in flocks was gladly hailed, enlivening as
they did, the cheerless aspect around. Not a seal
even was visible, nor a trace of animated nature
anywhere to be seen. Nothing was to be heard but the
sound of the ripphng current a^rainst the neigh-
bouring floes, which, together with the measured
stroke of the oars in the boats towing, as it feU faintly
on the ear, alone broke the dreary, solitary stHlness
which everywhere prevailed. Snow falHng heavUy
contributed much to the gloomy and cheerless aspect
01 the evening.

At 5 A.M., on the morning of the 21st, a light
breeze spmng up from the N.E., when M'e weighed
anchor, made saij, and stood away to the southward
that we might get clear of the heavy, loose ice which
surrounded us ; and pursuing this course for a few
hours, we got into water comparatively free; and
land was again seen from the mast-head, which
subsequently proved to be Garry Island. About
10 A.M., we passed through a distinct line of tide
running N.E. and S. W. The water, at the same time'
on the mshore boundary of the line, rose in tempera-
tm-e from 31° to 39°, that of air rose suddenly from
<iO to 38°. The former became discoloured and

154

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

brackish, and sank in density from 1018 to 1012;
and there could exist no doubt that we had at length
arrived within the influence of the Mackenzie River :
this, our position, ascertained at noon, fully confirmed.
As we approached the land, we found the water
shoaled rapidly, until we got into four fathoms, when
we were obliged to work the ship from shoal water to
the ice, tacking incessantly in from seven to four
fathoms. This shallowness was doubtless owing to the
proximity of the islands, as we were then forty miles
from the shore of the mainland ; but recent experience
of shoals elsewhere fully justified our not attempting
to approach nearer than in four fathoms. The ap-
pearance of the water, loaded with mud, causes the
abundant deposition of alluvial matter in the neigh-
bourhood of those islands laid down in the chart, and
fovours the opinion that they are still increasing in
extent, or that new ones are springing into existence.
Indeed, this part of the coast appears to be still in
process of formation from the vast amount of dluvium
brought down by the larger rivers, Mackenzie and
ColviUe, together with numerous smaller ones ; and the
streams and rivulets that course through the country
m the season of thaw, and empty themselves into the
Polar Sea, all surchaged with the material which is
to add still further to the extent of this great conti-
nent. The quantity of driftwood strewn along the
coast is enormous, particularly in the bays— form-
iiig a ready nucleus for the deposition of alluvium

DIFFICULTY OF NAVIGATION.

166

held in suspension ; and tho barrier presented by the
ice to seaward, and that grounded along shore,
lacihtates the deposition in a remarkable degree ; so
that considerable accessions of land must, in 'the
course of time, be made to this part of the American
coast, from the gradual encroachments it is making
on the limits of the Polar Sea.

In the course of the day the Pelly Islands were
seen ; but of these as well as Garry I am unable to
give any description, on account of the distance and the
dense haze generally present. They were more ele-
vated than any we had yet seen. These, with the
several other islands at the mouth of this great river
were the earlier discoveries of Franklin and Richard-
son ; nearly all were visited, and of one (Richard
Island) the former narrates a most affecting incident
Heavy fog with increasing wind set in towards even-
ing, and the surface of the water was more agitated
than we had for some time seen it, caused in a great
measure from the antagonizing influence of winds
and currents. The difficulties of navigating the ship
were extreme, at no period of the voyage were they
greater, and we were surrounded by islands, shoals and
ice. The lead line was our pilot on one side, and the
ice on the other, but as the latter could not be
observed on account of fog and increasing darkness,
evidence of its presence was conveyed in the heavy
shocks which the ship from time to time sustained.

156

Thus

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

3 continued our w^y under circumstances,
which led us to expr.i ^^smtoi every moaient ; nor
did the following uiormng, tne 22Dd, reveal to us a
more favourable sL-.e of things.

The weather still remained of the same fog^y
character, and the wind still obduro^^iv . -le from
the north-east, which obliged us to tack incessantly
as before. In the course of the day, Kendal,
Richard, aiid the Whale islands were observed to the
north east, and we subsequently learned that about
the same time the boat party of the ' Plover,' which
had proceeded along the coast to the eastward, was
then crmsing amongst these islands on their return
to the Mackenzie River, and strange to say we failed in
seemg each other. Could our advance so far to the
eastward have been anticipated, it would have been
an important matter to have preconcerted a plan for
meeting with this party at an appointed rendez^ ous
or at least to have left a record of our proceeding, .ur
mutual guidance. Combmed operations on such a
service cannot but be considered esser lally necessary
to ultimate success.

Towards evening, the fog gradually dispersed, the
weather became generally clear and serene, and
maintamed the same character throughout the sub-
sequent day. We still continued within che influence
of the Mackenzie River, advancii. ur r the same
circumstances as before, in a sea o w, -. fully con-

MACKENZIE RIVER. 157

firmatoiy of the recorded observations made by Sir
John Ricliardson in his early explorations of this
part of the coast, and more recently in his able and
mterestmg account of a boat voyage from this river to
tne boppermine.*

* (I

Richardson's Boat Voyage through Rupert's Land.'

158

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I in

'fi

CHAPTER VI.

Weather, &c.-Point Warren-Esquimaux-Their Eneampment
-Appearance of a European-Landing on the Beach-A
Grave-Hostile reception by fl . Natives-Incidents-Peace
established-The Women ^Sick Man and Incidents-Appear-
ance of the Men-Their Ilut-Consternation produced by
the Ship-Results-Flight of the Tribe-laurcourse with
^le Indians-Fire Water-Discovery of a Button and Results-
Reported Murder of a European and a Party on the Coast-
Boats seen-Appearance of their Huts-Their Interior-
Presents-Provisions-Language-Departure for the Ship-
Arrive on Board-Remain off the Point-Reland-Search
for the IIut-Results-Construction of Huts-Incidents-
Return on Board-Progress-Observations-Harrowby Bay
-Land at Point Maitland- Deposit a Record-Incidents-
Appearance of Land-Natives-Visit to the Shore, and Inci-
dents attending it-Return to the Ship-BaiUie Islands-
Birds.

On the 24th, the general character of the weather
had undergone but little change, the wind stiU blew
fresh, but a little more northerly than before, and we
continued working our way between the ice and the

POINT IVARBEN.

150

jor.. mMo to „|,,,roach the latter nearer than t«o
or , roe m, es ; .o sl,ullow is tl,c entire of thk eoast

by he great nvers. and the numerous smaller streams
to the shores of the I'olur Sea.

Early in the morning, the low bcaeh of Point
Warren was diseemible, the extremes bearing F N E

rrtgnlar, lof y, and varied charaeter than what we
had previously seen more to the westward

As we approaehed it, an Esq«in,aux encampment

funy estabhshed ; and human forms eould bo diseerned
though a teleseope. As we advanced nea., within
three or four mjes, there wer« marked signs of great
eonsternat.on in the eamp. I was busily engaged Z
wntmg a few hasty hnes for transmission to England
when the report of a European being seen spread
Jdly throughout the ship. 'l ^^hed I deck tdtr

but I confess I was unable to verily the fact by mi
own obsemifons. However, I musi do the o/giZ
observers the justice to say. that aUhe time I ook
the glass m han.l, they informed me the object had

About 12.30 the first cutter was manned and
armed, when Captain M'Clu. and myself accompaniL

160

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

by the interpreter, proceeded to the shore in the
direction of the encampment, then distant about three
miles, which with the aid of sail and a fresh breeze
we soon reached ; but when about fifty yards 'distant,
the boat grounded and a surf, heavy for the Polar
Sea, broke over her, which obliged us to be carried on
shore on the backs of the men.

As we approached, we were surprised to see only
two men and a woman — the latter running about
and shouting out lustily in their native language —
the women in the back ground carrying something
which we found out afterwards were arrows. The
huts four in number, appeared deserted. A mound
was likewise discernible about 100 yards from them
in which a pole was placed, and a piece of skin or
some such thing suspended from its top ; this, the in-
terpreter pronounced a grave, probably of a European,
which coupled with the previous report increased our
anxiety in no slight degree. Captain M'Clure then
expressed a wish that I should examine it, to which I
ge-ve a ready assent, considering it of great in lortance.
Aij we were about to land, the men continued to
utter the most discordant yells and threats to deter
us. We had previously made the usual friendly
salutations with the extended arms repeatedly, but
instead of the customary recognition, we were greeted
with wild gesticulations and more angry denunciations
than before.

The Captain and myself being the first on shore

HOSTHE BECEPTION. 145

proccded towards them, I carried my gun and a

the" oT ;«"'•"'■ •"" "^ ^«" '"l™"-d with

'» uy signs, ihe two men wth" bended
bow and qu ver full of arrows " „ j "enuea

in tl,» „„; f ' »PP«™<1 momentarily

in the act of commencing an assault. They took
mm w,h han. streaming in the wind, agitated'bjt
the fierce and ang,y passions of their nature and
boundmg to and fro. brandished knives, with d. the
ghtness and agihty of expert hunte.. and the
avage wddness of enraged. uncivUized man I

than tins display of courage and determination on th,
part of two men. to resist the approach of twelve to
th ir encampment. wUch they appeared «,solved 1
any hazard to defend. AU our efforts at pac fical '
hanng proved useless, we stood fronting fl em afew

% whtnl' '" r ^^P^*"°" "f -^^ » -w
fly, when the mterpreter. who had been the last

o leave the boat. J„i„cd us. wearing a ^t eo
fashioned after the style of that tvorn Z tl
Esquimau,, which at once attracted their attTnti™
He ad rcssed them loudly to overcome the no™'
but in friendly terms Ti,;c , "oise,

:n.tothegu„Ica„.ic,andthatbor.febytlirn
Tl.e inteipreter again vainly addressed them.

146

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

They would hold no intercourse, or allow us to
approach nearer, unless we removed the guns, for
which they appeared to entertain a great horror, and
no less dread of the ship then in the offing, to
which they frequently pointed. The guL:j were at
once placed on the ground, but that would not
satisfy them. I then handed mine to one of the men
a short distance behind me, with no better result.
They still resolutely repelled any advance until the
guns were placed in the boat, then about one hundred
yards distant. We could have been under arms in a
few minutes in case of treachery or surprise, so acting
on the advice of the interpreter, they were removed.
Having given them proof of the friendly character
of our visit, of which we again in words assured them,
at the same time presenting a piece of tobacco to
each, the whole aspect of affairs underwent a complete
and sudden change. The Esquimaux approached,
T am happy to say, without rubbing noses, and in
their altered expression and demeanour, evinced a
desire at once to cultivate friendly relations, allowed
us to examine their bows and arrows, and by our
desire fired at a mark — a piece of driftwood
fixed in the soil about eighty yards distant — when
they elevated their bows in an instant without
apparently taking aim, and pierced its centre ; affording
us ample evidence of what good targets we should
have made for such unerring marksmen.

We then offered them several presents with which

PEACE ESTABLISHED. J 47

they appeared greatly delighted : a little scarlet and
blue cloth we gave them, wa. particularly valued.

had .to„^ • irl . ^ "'°"™' ""ho hitherto

qufve^'f '"'^•"'^ *** " ''°- »" -veral

quivers of a^ows, m expectation of an encounter, that

no t" r """ ''""'' P"""''- A fourth and
shrt'Jrt ;"'""""« '"'^•^^' «f ae g™„p, had a
attended fv ""'"'' ""' »' ""e of the huts, and
attended by the woman (his mother) sat before it,

Tri tied stT """ '"^' '" ""' ''^ -- - "^
cnppled state, as we perceived on inviting him to

when LI ""''"'"''"^ ™ """PP'"' 0" t™ sticks,
when he dso was concUiated by our bounty. On

.nqmnng, though the interpeter, I was informed thai

Us m!r r "" "J"^ ^<'»^'-'' ■» hunting;
h^3 mother at once came forward, and removed Us

ir;::hV: "^" t p'^^^ °' '■'- ->■-'' -ered his

pi'cfe d in '"' r '"'* g»«™- not always
pmct,sed .n more cvUized life. I „as .hooked at

senteTTr/'f ""' P"™ ^^''-'^ '™b Pre-
sented- the foot and lower part of the leg bemg in an

fromw^te, never having been used ; and the only cover

.ng wa. a piece of hard skin in the same filthy 71
As the d,, ,^, i„^^;^^y^.^^ ^^^^^^^^ > ^^t.

to le h " ' ""u T "'"''^ "^ «'^*™-' I -as anxious
to get hm on board, that it might be at once removed,

I. 2

148

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

with the view of saving his life. To this proposition
they were at first disposed to accede, but it was
subsequently declined. I, therefore, recommended
what was best to be done, but with little hope of its
being attended to. In time, no doubt, he wdll be a
victim to the savage custom of his race, described by
the interpreter. As soon as the tribe leave the
encampment for a trading excursion, the parents will
take him to the summit of the highest land in the
neighbourhood, and there leave him to perish. From
the parental care I saw manifested in this case, I was
unwilling to believe they would subject him to such a
fate; one, however, which is, I believe, generally
received with resignation.

I v/as^greatfy interested in this poor young fellow,
as he was much the finest specimen of his race we
had seen ; in stature tall for an Esquimaux, about five
feet eight inches, and quite unlike them in his general
features and aspect— M^hich led us to suppose that
Indian, or even better blood, ran in his veins. He
had an aquiline nose, large black eyes, a most
pleasing expression of face, and his faint smile on
being questioned, displayed his regular well formed
teeth to much advanta r, . The interest we felt in his
fate was much increased, by his quiet subdued
manner—making no complaint as he appeared to feel
no pain— and from the determination he evinced to
defend his fireside to the last.

Notwithstanding the savage fury of these Es-

■ Jiff : .. K

Es-

ESQUIMAUX CUSTOMS. I49

quimaux on our arrival, their subsequent conduct
was kind and gentle, to a greater degree than we had
before observed in people of the same race. Their
dress was of the usual character formed of reindeer
skm-the fur next the body. They were of middle
stature, strong and muscular, and the fierce ex-
pression of their swarthy countenances, was increased
by the long dishevelled hair flowing about their
shoulders. They looked the lords of the dreaiy coast
on which we stood. I was glad to perceive the
ndeous labrets were not wcrn by these people, as
1 beheve the custom is peculiar to the tribes
inhabiting the lands westward of the Mackenzie. I
also observed that the tatooing on the chin of the
women, was different to what we had previously seen •
instead of one broad line and two smaller paraUel
ones, a series of dotted lines extended from the lower
lip to the chin, forming one band about an inch in
breadth; their feet and hands were of characteristic
beauty and smallness.

At their request wc adjourned to a newly erected
hut, entirely composed of wood. It differed from
those of Esquimaux, more closely resembling those
of he Indians, being formed of stakes placed upright
m he ground about six feet high, either circulai or
ovahn form, from .vhich others inclined so as to form a
s opnig roof. O. entering, we found a large fire of
driftwood bmning m die centre of the floor, on which
were pieces of reindeer's flesh being cooked, but

150

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE,

as black as charcoal: our visit having evidently
led to its being neglected. Here we learned the
following intelligence through the medium of the
interpreter.

The elder of the three men was the chief of the
tribe, the two younger were his sons, and the woman
his principal wife, as polygamy exists amongst them.
The first was a fine active lookix:^';^ man, much re-
sembling his crippled son in feature ; he wore a stunted
beard, and a moustache represented by a few grey
hairs; conveying to me the idea that he had seen
some fifty winters in this dreary clime. The ship
having been observed at an early hour in the morning
ofi'the coast, her appearance had caused the utmost con-
sternation amongst the community, which in numbers
amounted to about one hundred. They could not
form an idea as to what she was, but frequently
pointed to her, shouting aloud as if conveying inteUi-
gence to others of the tribe— who not being visible,
led us to suppose that they might be concealed in
our neighbourhood. On the approach of our boat,
all the men, w nen and children, from their account,
had taken to the boats.

We obsei-ved, in the direction they pointed out,
two baidars, filled principalis with women, as well as
we could discern, waiting, in a deep inlet to the
eastward, the result of what was going on at the en-
campment. The old chief said they had left all their .
property, and that he and his family would have fled

i !

FIRE-WATER,

151

a.-o, were it not that his crippled son could not be
removed ; and they resolved not to leave, but defend
him to the last, had we given evidence of any hostile
intention They were at war with the Indians to the
southward, and their brethren to the eastward ; so that
these savage subjects of our most Gracious Queen
earned on war pretty extensively on their own account.'
feome of their arrows were double-barbed, ^.ith ser-
rated edges ; and bore evidence of recent conflict
ii-om the presence of blood-marks; but whether
ot man or the reindeer could not be determined.
They said they often fought, and some of their
enemies might be killed; but that they were seldom able
o ascertain the fact. They reside at this place
throughout the ^..r, do not go inland where their
^lemies reside, no. d. they cariy on trade with
he Hudson s Bay Company, or their traders;
the ony mtercourse they have, bemg ^^ith that
ribe of Esquimaux whom we a.' with at Jones'
Islands, and whom they travel ovev ti.c ice to meet
m the spring, midway between their respective en-
campments, for purposes of barter. Through this
channel all their trade is carried on with the Russians
and not with the Company in whose territoiy they
reside. The reason they assigned for not doing so
when questioned, was, that some of the Indians had
been killed by fire-water (spirits), which some traders
had given them to drink ; and they feared that they
might be treated in the same way. This statement
IS given as nearly as possible in the words in which it

162

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I ■

was uttered; and, if such a practice exists, it is
reprehensible in the highest degree. They appeared
much pleased when we mentioned the name of " Atta-
waa" the chief of the tribe with whom they traded,
and of whom I have previously spoken. Our having
seen and communicated with him, as we informed
them, increased our intimacy to a considerable degree,
and, on the interpreter presenting the woman with a
string of beads, she said she would become his mother
offered to get him a wife, if he would remain with
them, as they looked on him as one of themselves,
from the mode in which he was dressed.

As I stood at the fire next to the old chief, I ob-
served a button suspended from his ear, worn as
an earing, which, on examination, I found to be a
flat metal button of Enghsh manufacture, with the
word " London" stamped in a circular form on its
inner surface. I immediately directed Captain
M'^Clure's attention to the circumstance; and in-
quiries at once began as to the mode in which it
came mto his possession, when we heard the startling
mtelhgence that an Indian, like ourselves, as they said"!
had been killed not far from where we stood. The
name of Indian is applied to all people dissimilar to
«iemselves ; and the interpreter concluded it was a
European ; but when the deed was done, it was im-
possible to determine, from their inabihty to compute
time with accuracy. The son who was about twenty-
seven years of age, said, on being questioned, it might
have been last year, or when he was a boy ; but on this

EUROPEAN MURDERED.

153

point we could not

peared that

ir. u.iy way ascertain the truth.

ap-

and were left in a state of painful anxiety. It

had

landed on the extreme ^^
Point Warren, distant from where we were some three
or four miles, continuous with the main land, where
they erected a hut similar to the one we were in, of
an oval form, nine paces in length and six in breadth
formed of wood cut with a knife ; and they expressed
great desire to have an axe or hatchet, of which they
appeared to know the use. The old chief expressed his
wilhngness to accompany us to the locality, and, indeed,
appeared anxious that we should visit it ; but his off«r
was declined. The alleged Indian had approached
their encampment alone, was guilty of some indiscretion
which excited their fury, and led to his bt.ig mur-
dered and interred in the mound, which the interpreter
had nghtly judged to be the grave of a European. They
also informed us that the man who had killed him had
fled from the encampment that morning in his " kayak "
on first seeing the ship, fearing that we had come to
chastise him or his tribe for the oiFence, in accordance
with their own savage custom of revenge. Could
this circumstance have accounted for the appearance
of a man in European costume, as reported by several
persons on board ; the only vestige of which that Ave
could discover, was the button I had noticed ? An
examination of the grave, as originally intended, might
have cleared up this very mysterious story ; for the
preservative powers of frozen soil would keep the

164

TM N0RTH-WE3T PASSAOE.

body for years in ,a state of freshness; and I re
gutted then as I still do, that this was not permitted.
The reraamder of the party had gone inland after the
oeenrrenee , but we eould not learn if they wero
aware of it To visit the hut they had ereeted.
became an object of great interest : that the locnlit;
m.gh be explored for a.y recent traces of voyage,.,
and that the truth or falsehood of the staimen
mght be established; but of the murder there eould

M Clure deeded on returning to the ship. They
told us of their having seen two boats the provioul
summer (1849) going to the eastward, and again soon
returnmg to the westward towards the Mackenzie,
but more we eould not ascertain, as neither had
commun,eated. It „.„st have been the party of Sir
John Rrehardson .„ ruat of the 'Plover.' The former
d.d not, how(..,.r, voturn to the Mackenzie, having
piweeded overland irom the Coppermine River

We visited their huts, eight in number, all of
which, w,th the exception I have mentioned, were
composed of skins supported by poles. One end was
of a conreal form, like that of our ordinary field tent
lh.s was the sleeping apartment, and was separated

frorn the otlrer by a skin curtain of a quadrangular shape;

he last filthy and disorderly to a degree, a, it was used

for aU purposes except sleep. The family congregate

together m the conical part of the tent, like animals

for repose, on a couch formed of reindeer skins spread

LANUTJAGE.

155

OP the frozen soil. As a proof of their sagacity, this
end of the tent was always pitched to windward, as
prese- tmg less r.-.stance thnn the other to the force
of the blast. I observed the only rooking utensil
waslh wed out of stone, and fish hud bee. recently
boiled m it. All their implements ".. ,ng

and fishmg were strewn carelessly aboi j,cing

a hasty de])arf.u-e of its occupants. filth of

these huts was truly disgusting, and the or arising
from it such as seldom assails the olfactoiy nerves
The pashiran^e was rich and luxuriant, and animals, no
doubt, pic. 'Iv abound ; of this the ground in the
vicmity auui.ud ample evidence; and their great
success in the chase, from the number of bones that
were strewn about, chiefly of the reindeer, whale
and seal, was fully confirmed by the quantity of
provisions that we saw, consisting of dried reindeer
meat, fish, whale blubber and ducks, buried in large
holes in the ground. We procured a good number
of ducks (pintail and eider) from them, and made
many presents in return. They were particularly
pleased with a saw we gave the som— the old chief
teUing us that he and his son ' hared alike in all
things ; and from the events of die day, I could not
but conclude that a stronger attachment existed be-
tween the members of this family than is usual
amongst these wild, uncivilized people. The language
IS nearly identical with that spoken by the natives of
Labrador, and somewhat different from that of the

IMAGE EVALUATSON
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

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1.25

biy£ 12.5

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u 114

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li£ 2.0

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«r -^

156

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

tribes to the westward. It is a pity that the laudable
eflForts of the class of Missionaries that spread Chris-
tianity amongst the former, cannot be traced along
this coast.

We took our departure at 3.30, leaving the
party highly gratified by our visit. Having got
safely through the surf, we reached the ship, then
"lying to" in the offing, thoroughly drenched. It was
then determined to steer as near Point Warren
as possible, that we might make a search for the
hut. But the fog increasing, the land was shut
out from view for the remainder of this tempestuous
evening. Our visit was consequently deferred; and,
for this purpose, the ' Investigator' stood oflF the Point
for the night.

On the following morning, Sunday 25th, at 3 a.m.
we again left the ship in the first cutter, and pro-
ceeded to the shore in the immediate vicinity of
the Point— a cold northerly wind blowing ofi^the ice,
and the sky cloudy and overcast, imparted a cheerless
aspect to the morning. We soon reached the shore
and encountered the same shallow water and surf as
yesterday, through which we waded to the beaoh.
Immediately on landing, some marks were observed
on the sand, much resembling those of a boot, but
they were so indistinct, and not being elscvvhere
observable, I am not disposed to attribute any degree
of importance to them. We met with no Esquimaux,
but saw two deserted huts about five hmidred yards

EXCAVATION.

167

from the beach, which were assumed to be those we
were in search of j an inlet intervening, obliged us to
describe a considerable circuit in our approach.

We had thus found two instead of one, and I
began to doubt if this was the exact locality, for an
Esquimaux point might have a more extensive
signification than we attach to the term. It was,
therefore, much to be regretted, that we did not
revisit the encampment and take the Esquimaux chief
for a guide.

The huts were constructed of driftwood, turf
fiUiug the interstices, and were similar in form to the
one already seen, but less capacious and lofty ; the
architect had evidently much improved on the original
design— assuming these to have been the structures
alluded to. One was in a more dilapidated state than
the other; neither of them presented an appearance of
having been recently occupied, nor was there any-
thing by which we could establish the fact of their
having been the residence of Europeans. While our
party proceeded along the coast for a short distance,
I remained with two men, to examine thoroughly the
most perfect, but failed to discover any trace of
civilized man. The floor sounded hollow under foot,
and on removing some wood, we found an excavation
beneath, which had evidently been a carjie or store-
house, as it contained a few bones of animals, a
portion of an old wooden Esquimaux utensil, and a
small piece of ivory pieiced with holes, similar to

158

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

what they wear about their person. These and the
remains of an old kayak lying outside, proved their
former occupation by Esquimaux, which of. course
might have been subsequent to the original occupiers,
but there was no proof that we had reached the
proper locaKty. Nothing further was discovered.
In an excursion along the shore on the opposite side
of the point, a fishing net indicated one of the fishing
stations of the natives. The soU was generally
swampy, with numerous ponds of water interspersed
over its surface— a pecuUarity of aU the points of coast
we had visited; some were worthy of the name of
lakes.

On our return to the boat, we found that she had
become imbedded in the sand, and as the water had
receded a little since we landed, it had much increased
our difficulties in getting her again afloat. This was
only accomphshed by our united efibrts and perseve-
ranee, when we again got safely through the surf,
made sail, and reached the ship after four hours'
absence.

As we continued our progress along the coast,
under circumstances similar to those I have men'
tioned, there was marked evidence of an advancing
season. The temperature had become lower, and
had a less^ extensive range during the day, 'from
30° to 35°, together with, cold northerly winds, sleet
and snow. The sea-water had increased in density
to 1020, with a temperature from 33° to 35°. The

LAND MARK.

159

birds were less numerous, and appeared generally
going to the southward— unmistakeable proof that
summer was drawing to a close.

On the 26th, we sighted the low land of PhiUip's
Island, close to wljjch we saw two Whales; and were
enabled to tack fifteen miles to seaward, when we
reached loose sailing ice. Much of a heavy character
was observed grounded along the coast, and shoals
appeared to abound. Cape Brown was passed in the
evenmg, and on the 27th we had reached Cape
Dalhousie, to the eastward of which we found a
current setting to the south-west eleven miles in
twenty.four hours. A tidal line was also ol - rved
extending from N.E. to S.W. but there was no
difference m the density of water on either side; it
decreased to 1018, however, some hours afterwards.
Nothing of any consequence occurred to call for
observation, or enliven the cold, cheerless character of
the weather, until the 30th, when we sighted
Nicholson Island and entered Harrowby Bay. When
at 8 A.M. a mark having been observed on the land
Mr. Sainsbury (mate) and myself, accompanied by the
interpreter, proceeded in the third whale boat, with
orders to examine it, and deposit a record of our
arrival, &c., the ship laying to, about two mUes offshore
to await our return. On reaching and examining
the object which had attracted our attention, we
found It to be nothing more than a small mound of
earth with a pole in the centre-one of the usual

••l^w»w«W"W"PI»!ii

I! A

160

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Esquimaux marks to identify locality, as we had
frequently met with them on other points of the coast.
Close to it, we saw the wood belonging to two
sledges, carefully placed together for future use — near
them were a few spots, where the aoil appeared to have
been lately distiu-bed, and on seizing the turf it
readily came up, revealing to our view an excavation
containing a great quantity of fish and ducks, which
we left untouched, having carefully replaced the earth
as we had found it. There could exist no doubt
that we had reached the hunting ground of a
tribe of Esquimaux, whose encampment might be
either distant or remote, but as our orders were
imperative to return at once to the ship on the
completion of our duty, we had no time for further
exploration.

We erected a mound and deposited a bottle con-
taining a record of our proceedings ten feet to the
magnetic north. We failed in procuring a piece of
driftwood of sufficient size, to make the mark con-
spicuous, and were reluctantly obliged to take a
portion of one of the sledges for the purpose; the
native marks on which we removed, and cut a broad
arrow on its surface, together with the ship's name.
While this was in process of erection, I made a hasty
run over the land, procured several new botanical
specimens and a few small birds, viz. Sanderling
{Calidris Arenaria), Snow Bunting {Emheriza Nivalis),
and TiUTistone (Strepsilas Collaris), several of each

POINT MAITLAND.

161

were seen. The land was more elevated than any
we had previously visited, but flat, forming a con-
tmuous plain , the soU was of rich loam, with peat
supenmposed in depth from twelve to fourteen inches
and the pasturage everywhere huuriant and abundant
—no doubt a favourite resort of animals. I also
observed several smaU lakes or ponds on its surface
contammg good fresh water.

Soon after our return to the ship, we stood in, as
Close to the land as was compatible with safety, along
■ts north-eastern coast, proceeding towards Baillie
Islands Two figures were seen standing on the
high plam we had visited in the morning, a few
mUes mor,. to the northward. Considering them as
evidence of the presence of others, it was determined
to close the dispatches, and commit them to their
charge, as we might not again have such an oppor-
tumty; assuming that they were a portion of the
tnbe we expected to meet at Cape Bathurst, to which
we were then proceeding. Accordingly, at 1 p m
the first whale boat and first cutter were manned and
armed. Captain M-Clure and myself, with the inter-
preter, proceeded in the former; orders being left that
the latter, which was to convey some of the officers
who wished to take advantage of whatever sport the
countiy afforded, should not leave the ship untU we
had reached the shore, lest our numbers should cause
any unnecessary alarm amongst the natives. The
interpreter was placed standing, a conspicuous object

162

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I i

ii 1

in the bow of the boat. His costume so closely
resembled that worn by the natives, that they could
have no difficulty in its recognition ; and as we knew
that our flag had before waved over this icy sea, we
unfurled the white ensign of St. George, in the hope
of its also being recognized ; feeling certain it would
remove whatever apprehension our approach might
create. As we neared the shore, the two figures
disappeared, but soon again presented themselves,
attended by several dogs. They proved to be two
women, who joyously returned the signal of friendship
which we then made. The boats grounded a short
distance from the shore ; and we were again afibrded an
opportunity of testing the qualities of oiu water-boots,
by wading. We landed on a soft mud beach, and as-
cended a bank of about 80 feet high ; in some places
quite perpendicular, at others inclining at an angle
from 15° to 20°. They formed gullies which facihtated
the ascent. Wo reached the summit of the wide
extensive plain on which the women stood, and trod
on the same luxuriant soil we had visited in the
morning. The women, the younger of whom carried
a child on her back, about fifteen or sixteen months
old, after the fashion of her country, received us with
demonstrations of gratification, as if accustomed to
the sight of Europeans, but without the nasal salu-
tation, with which we could very gladly dispense.
We commenced an animated conversation through the
medium of the interpreter. They appeared intelligent.

ESQUIMAUX WOMEN. Jgg

daughter m^ f ' ^'"^^*^'- "'» Srmd-

i f IT r """ '"'^»- »d-ted. uZ

"m^h "'" '""'^ ""8 *»'' huntiug some
mstonce, and they pointed to the north. We assum^H
that they meant Cape Bathur^t Tk "^^ *'™"'«<1
living in a hnt „„i f ''""^'- These women were

very jocular and am™i„g 11 ^''T"'™ "^"^
ample evidence of ThT , "'"°''' ""■ g»™

compact, or much h^tf./f "^f "^ fi"™«r. more
of their ex bZ The h T u^^''*'^ " ^^
P.ain.y.howedtrocitiSiSvt'!;^ "■-•<=

thft U «" n' f "-P'^ "^ "«> -ft mud.
only with the If f^ *■' r '''""'"«'^' '^'J *»

y mbedded. On observmg him afterwards take

M 3

164

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

a small quantity of spirits from his flask, to counteract
the chilling effects of his immersion, seeing it was of
a clear colour, they at once pronounced it poisonous,
and similar, they said, to what the traders to the
southward had given the Indians, which killed them.
•This was the second time we had heard a similar
story, since entering the Hudson's Bay Company's
territories. On our informing them that the officer
only took it as a medicine, the younger immediately
' complained of pain, and requested to have a little.
Her taste was gratified. She took but a small
quantity, which she again spat out, and expressed her
great dislike of it.

We soon found that they had not a very accurate
idea of distance. They had at first assured us that
their encampment was only at a short distance ; and
the same story was repeated after walking about four
miles ; but, in the hope of soon reaching it, we con-
tinued our advance. From them we learned that a
party consisting of two boats and ten Europeans,*
had been on the coast two years before — meaning
two summers — doubtless, the one under the com-
mand of Sir John Richardson — and that they had
pitched two tents and stopped two nights a short
distance further on. As I was rather curious to see
where my friend Sir John had bivouacked, I requested

* We could not clearly understand the exact number from
their inability to reckon above ten. The party was, I believe,
arger.

A BIVOUAC.

]65

the interpreter to tell them to be very particular in
pointing out the exact spot. As we proceeded along
the coast, its regularity of outline was occasionally
interrupted by shallow indentations, forming little
crescentic-shaped bays, well sheltered on either side
by the high land, which steadily increased in elevation
as we advanced ; and in one of these httle sheltered
bays the party had passed the night. The site of
their bivouac is now marked by an irregular-shaped
mound, formed of earth, driftwood and stones, be-
neath which is buried their winter stock of provisions.
The Esquimaux women entertained a perfect recol-
lection of the Chief (as they said) and his party ; told
us several amusing stories connected with their visit,
and showed us beads, rings, and other articles which
they still wore in fond remembrance of tb-. intrepid
voyagers, who had evidently left a most favour-
able impression, as they laughed heartily when we
mentioned them.

On being informed that Captain M^Clure was a
great cbie^ and that I was a gut medicine-chief
from a far country— being the only two of whom
they made enquiries- they allowed us to proceed
m front, and maintained every sign of respect for
such distinguished characters as we should have been
accounted amongst the tribe. We still continued
om- march, without observing the least trace of hut
or habitation of any kind, until one of our men

166

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

whom we had sent on as avant-courier, carrying the
ensign unfurled, waved it as a signal of success.

I was much struck with the sagacity manifested by
the native dogs, and the vigilance displayed by them
m watching our movements on thia short journey.
Captain M'^Clure and myself being a short distance
in advance of the women and the interpreter, were
guarded on either side by one of them ; two attended
the women, one advanced to the hut, and the sixth
brought up the rear; and, as we approached the hut,
they took up a position in front of it, evincing every
desire to aid in its defence, if necessary — proving how
truly valuable they are to the Esquimaux.

We, at length, reached another of those little bays,
about five miles distant from our original starting-
point, and found on the inclined plane of its southern
aspect, one solitary, miserable-looking hut, instead of
the encampment we had been led to expect. Our
standard-bearer having found it without an occupant,
had quietly taken possession of it, and hoisted his
flag on its summit, where we saw it waving as we
approached. This was one of the smallest and most
wretched-looking habitations we had seen, merely con-
sisting of skins, chiefly of reindeer and bear, thrown
over a few poles united at top, in form of a triangle,
and not more than six or seven feet high. It was
extremely filthy inside, with a plentiful supply of fish
(salmon), and dried deer's flesh strewn around, which

INCIDENTS. '

167

apparently assisted to form a couch for its occupants.
To afford a proof of the exceUence of this diet, one of
the women took up a fish in a semi-putrid state, and
ate It m our presence with zest and avidity. Fish
plentifully abound on this part of the coast, which
they caU Salmon land. Several nets were set on the
beach, made very ingeniously from the ham-string
tendons of the reindeer, about twelve or thirteen
inches long, knotted entirely by the hand. We
obtained a considerable quantity of fish in return for
the presents we made. Captain M^Clure being desirous
ot obtaming a white bear skin which covered their hut
bought It for a copper kettle.

Nothing could exceed their civUity to us They
appeared surprised we did not indulge in raw
fish as freely as themselves, and were exceedingly
anxious that all our party (twenty-five in number)
should stop for the night in their wretched hut
Ihey offered us many inducements to do so, and among
others that they would summon the rest of the tribe
to meet us and make merry. I was much struck with
the appearance of the child, who was evidently more
European in features and appearance than any I had
yet seen amongst them. They did not evince the
same degree of surprise at the great oomiak, as they
called the ship, as the other tribes we had met with
They gave us to understand that the boats of Sir John
Richardson had similar great cloths like ours, which
doubtless prepared them to feel less astonishment at

168

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the appearance now of one of so much greater
magnitude. They then told us that two other
European boats had been seen a few days before.
These we thought they confounded with, and were
Sir John Richardson's party, but I subsequently
learned that the 'Plover's' boats had been along this
coast a few days prior to our arrival, and had
returned on their way to the Mackenzie, as I
have elsewhere mentioned, and Lad evidently landed
in this neighbourhood. Captain M'Clure did not
consider it judicious to trust the dispatches to these
women, but determined to return to the ship, remain
oflP the coast during the night, and seek the encamp-
ment of the men further to the westward early the
foUowing morning. We then took our leave, the
women still regretting our non-acceptance of their
hospitality. They waded off with us to the boats,
then grounded some distance from the shore. After
we had got afloat, the two poor creatures could be
seen running along the beach, holding up fish as an
inducement to return. They had previously expressed,
m the most piteous tones on parting with fish in
barter, that they should aU die in the winter from
starvation.

We reached the ship at 6 p.m., and worked up
along the coast until darkness set in. We anchored
for the night off Baillie Islands, in four fathoms, the
weather looking wild and unsettled. The temperature
of air had fallen to 27°, and sea-water to 28°. Young

BIRDS.

leg

ice formed in the rigging which was showered about
us plentifully in working the ship.

When on shore several Ducks and Gulls were shot
and the Great Northern Diver (Colymbus Qlacialis)
was seen for the first time; several flocks of Ducks
were also seen all going to the southward^increasin.
the unpleasant evidence, that the short Arctic sum-
mer was drawing to a close. .

170

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

CHAPTER VII.

Weather— Revisit the Shore— Incidents— The Coast— Cape
Bathurst— Encampment— Land on the Isthmus— Advance to
Encampment-Esquimaux— Interview and Incidents— Their
Hostile Aspect— Altered Demeanour— Appearance of Men
and Women— Incidents— Fire Water— Barter — Despatches
—Negotiation for their transmission— Return to the Boat-
Presents to the Natives— A Gun— A Thief— Their rude
Behaviour— War Whoop— Difficulty in clearing the Boat-
Leave the Shore— Boat aground— Esquimaux Kayaks— Their
Weapons— Mode of using them— Incidents attending our
return— Their Visit to the Ship— Invitation to the Encamp,
ment— Departure from Baillie's Islands— Visits from Esqui-
maux and Incidenta— Their Account of other Expeditions-
Visit, &c.— Expectation of a Ship with Presents— Their
Departure from the Ship — Esquimaux, their Habits,
Manners, Customs, &c.

The morning oi the Slst of August wore a cold
and cheerless aspect ; the land, instead of the rich and
verdant appearance it presented but a few hours
before, being everywhere covered with snow. We had
anchored between BaiUie Islands and the main land,

CAPE BATHURST.

171

about four miles distant from each, and it having
been determined to seek the hunting grounds of
the Esquimaux further to the northward, early that
mornmg, at 7 a.m., the first cutter was again manned
and armed, and provisions taken for twenty-four
hours. Captain M^Clure and myself, with the inter-
preter, once more took our departure. It was the
coldest day we had yet experienced within the Arctic
circle, ^ith a fresh biting blast from the westward •
the wind having a few hours before forsaken that quar'
ter whence it had so obstinately blown against its

We resolved on running along the coast of the
mam land as near as possible to the shore, and stood
in accordingly towards a small bay, which proved to
be the one we had left the evening before~a good
starting point from whence to commence our search
for the tribe. The boat grounded as we approached
the shore, and the surf breaking pretty heavily at the
time, we were obliged to anchor. After some
exertion we were again soon afloat, and as the wind
was blowing directly on shore, we had to pull out
some distance, the water being very shallow. No
sooner was the boat observed approaching, than
our two friends of the previous day made their
appearance, and by word and gesture earnestly
besought us to land. Our duty lay in another quarter ;
hey, however, ascended the heights and watched us
tor a long time. #

As we advanced on our way through loose ice, our

172

TllK NORTH-WEST PASSAdE.

progress was arrested from time to tunc by several
little mishaps. Tlie wind having increased con-
siderably in force, it carried away our main-yard, then
sprung the mizeri mast, and we grounded repeatedly
amongst the ice. The const line presented a suc-
cession of lofty headlands, as if encli, on becoming
exposed to view, was the last, until we got some
eighteen or twenty miles to the northward, when that
which appeared to be, as it really was. Cape Bathurst,
broke fairly on our view. No trace of a human being
was Miywhere discernible along the coast, with the
aid of a glass ; and our last hope rested on the Cnpe we
were rapidly nearing. We were about to relinquish
the search, supposing the tribe had changed their
encampment, and perhaps gone farther inland, when
the glass being in my hands, I thought I could
discern a figure in motion near the extremity of
the Cape. Soon afterwards, a number of huts and
many people were discernible; and the anxiously
soujrht for encami)ment was, at length, discovered on
the extremity of the Cape, much to our delight.

The shallowness of the water would not admit
of our steering direct. We, therefore, kept on
our course towards what appeared a large floe,
extending between the Cape and neighbouring island,
but which we found on landing to be a narrow sandy
istlnuus on which the snow was deposited some five
or six inches. The boat grounded some distance
from the shore, but we tracked her in as near to it as

HOSTILE APPEARANCES.

173

possible, and at once made our dispositions for
advancing to the Cape. As it was difficult to say
what attitude the Esquimaux, from their great num-
bers, might assume towards a party consisting only
of eleven persons, and as they had manifested no sign
of friendship as yet, but stood silently on the verge of
the Cape watching our movements, the muskets
were loaded and ammunition served out; five men
being left to guard the boat, with orders not to allow
any kayaks to come alongside. We landed with three
men, one of whom carried a white ensign, and a bag
containing the presents, and boldly advanced towards
the Cape, then distant about 700 yards. We had
got about half way without observing the least
movement amongst them, and matters wearing rather
a hostile aspect, we considered that our fearless
advance, in numbers so few, would convince them of
our friendly intentions. Suddenly one of them
was observed to descend the cliff, at the base of
which were several oomiaks and kayaks, seized one of
the latter, launched it in a small channel of water,
separating the isthmus from the Cape, which was in
some places quite fordable, and made way towards us.
In a moment, all the others, as if by preconcerted
signal, followed the example, and in a few minutes the
whole tribe advanced rapidly towards us. They left
the kayaks at the stream, and ran wildly along the
beach, yelling loudly— their long black hair streaming *
in the wind. Carrying their bows ready for use, they

174

THE NORTH-WEST PA8SA0E.

unslieathcd thoir long bright knivoa, nnd brandished
tlunii in the air ns tliey advanced. All the women
followed witli supphos of arrows, presenting a picture
of liostility, whicii left little to be understood of their
intentions. We halted in a line to receive them, our guns
being ready for use, if n(;ccssary, and made the signal
of i)oaco— the interpreter at the same time calling out
lustily that we were their friends, which induced them
to pause when a few yards distant, still vociferating
loudly as to our intentions. Their numbers rapidly
increased, several oomiaks filled with men and women
having left the shore to reinforce them, all armed. Some
of the latter carried long spears, and there being then
not less than ninety or a hundred present, with an
evident desire on their part to close around us, we
drew a lino on the snow across which neither party
were to pass. This mode of preserving order they at
once understood, as if the custom existed amongst
themselves; but while they evinced a readiness to
comply at one moment, in the next, the lino of
demarcation was passed, and we became nearly sur-
rounded by them as before. This went on from time
to time, requiring the utmost trouble on our part to
keep them back ; the interpreter being all this time in
conversation with the chief and principal men of the
tribe, assuring them of our friendship, and the
peaceful object of our visit— being in- search of our lost
brothers. As the interview progressed, we observed
several of them return their arrows to the quiver;

THE ESQUIMAUX.

176

Others handed their bows to the women; but the
knives were retained. Wc then considered that the
indications of hostihty they had manifested were at an
end, at least, for a time.

The guns we carried were evident objects of attrac
tion, and a japanned botanic.d case shing- across my
back much excited tlieir wonder and admiration-its
reflecting surface adding, no doubt, greatly to their
surprise. A clever attempt was made to steal a
brace of pocket-pistols it contained, and I was
obliged forcibly to wrest them from the thief.
They made several playful endeavours to get the muskets
out of our hands but this was firmly resisted • and
other attempts at familiarity also required us to main-
tain an appearance of determination.

The information they gave us was similar to
what wc had received from the women on the
previous day; and nothing additional was then
elicited. The tribe appeared to be composed of
young, active, muscular men, and the women were
decidedly bctter-looking, with more vivacity and
cheerfulness than any we had met with. I fancied
that I could trace the outline of Indian features in
several of both sexes; the dress of the women par-
ticiUarly partook in some degree of that worn by
the Indian tribes, and differed from the costume of
their race along the coast. In the men, there was an
absence of the labrets ; but several had the septum
ot the nose pierced and transfixed with a piece of

176

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

ivory, some three or four inches long, a blue bead
ornamenting either end. Sundry emblems of their
success in the chase were worn suspended from their
deer-skin coat; chiefly the head and neck of
the Great Northern Diver, skins of the stoat or
ermine, and other small animals— all intended to con-
vey an idea of their individual prowess. Tatooing
was common amongst themj and the captors of
Whales were each honoured with one line extending
i)ut\.rards from the inner angle of the eye across the
cheek; for each one taken, the captor became
entitled to an additional mark. They had caught a
Whale only a few days previous, and had been busily
engaged in feasting on, and flensing it, on our
arrival. The captor was pointed out to us. He had
received his line of tatooing; it was the first he
had taken, and was evidently very proud of the
honour, and the high position he now occupied among
the tribe. He was one of the finest and most in-
telligent-looking among the young men ; and, on the
strength of his capture and general success that
season, had taken to himself a second wife; the
number being proportioned to the wealth of the
husband, and his ability to maintain them. They all had
the appearance of expert hunters, and ran with great
celerity. They said they were about half as many at
the encampment as were present ; so that we estimated
the strength of the tribe at one hundred and fifty per-
sons. They would all leave the Cape (except one family.

!ii

BABT£R,

177

which remains throughout the winter) iu about
three weeks, as soou as young iee covers the sea.
Ihey then proceed to that part of Harrowby Bay
whe„ ^e had discovered the sledges, birds and

admit f I T '"^''^ ""^"S* ^ffl"'™' to
admit of then- travefling, when they go west-

ward to meet a tribe from the Mackenzie, with whom

aey trade, the latter trading with the^Indians,

who are m direct communication with the Hudson's

Bay Company s agents. They repeated the accusation

of he fire-water having been given in barter, and

fatal results. On inquiring as to the value of a

sdver fox-skm, and the amount it realised in barter

they confirmed a story we had heard from the women'

the d«y previous, that for three of those precious

skins they had got from the traders cooking utensils,

which we estimated at eight shillings and sixpence

I may mention that the skin of the silver fox k one

of the most valuable furs, and at the annual sale of the

being as high as twenty-five or thirty guineas, so that
an Idea of their profits may be formed when we con-

c»dit?„' Tr' "^ "" ''"«'™' ^'- How much the
under the influence of /ree «ra*

met a Point Warren, and with some tribes of Indians
to the south, which quite corresponded with the
accounts ..ceived at the last-named locality; »d I

182

THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE.

joined to escort us back to the ship — as the water
was very shallow, one of them in his tiny craft,
piloted us clear of the grounded ice and shoals. It
was beautiful to witness with what tact and dexterity
they were managed, and rapidly propelled through the
water. They are elegantly and ingeniously con-
structed of seal skin over a whale-bone frame work,
the former being sown with the tendons of the rein-
deer, and a bone needle, when no other can be
procured. They are extremely buoyant, propelled by
a single paddle, are generally about sixteen or seven-
teen feet in length, and weigh about forty-five pounds,
so that they can be carried on the shoulder with ease.
They contain all the implements of war and the
chase, everything in its place, so that an Esquimaux
in his kayak, is provided with all he can possibly
require, and has ample room for a good supply of
food.

They were resolved to proceed to the ship, then
distant about ten miles. Several preceded us, and it
was beautiful to witness the regularity and order of
their advance — maintaining a proper distance between
each, which did not vary in the least as far as we
could observe. We were anxious to witness a display
of their skill] when in chase of the Whale, in the use of
the spear and harpoon, which they throw with
great dexterity, recovering the weapon with wonderful
rapidity. These harpoons have a piece of inflated skin
or the bladder of animals attached to the upper part

«).

OUR RETUKN.

188

by a tendonous cord or a Walrus hide thong; and
when thrown, the barbed portion becomes detached
from the shaft, when it hits its object, the skin stiU
adhenngtoit. In this way, a Whale is pursued by
the men in kayaks, and receives such a number
of these wounds in quick succession as it comes to
the surface, and becomes so worried and exhausted
from loss of blood, that escape is veiy rare The
spear was also thrown with great accuracy ; the heads
of these and the harpoons are for the most part made
ot bone; flmt is sometimes substituted both for them
and arrow heads-some of the latter were made of
iron.

The wind continuing from the west was
agamst us, and we were obliged to work through
floe ice, which much retarded our progress. The
kayaks did not follow us. but wisely kept on a straight
course and when ice came in the way, the Esquimaux
landed on it, hauled up their little boats, emptied them
of any water they contained, and carried them across
the floe, launching them on the opposite side, when
they agam proceeded on their way. On clearing
the ice there was a little sea on ; but they, nothing
daunted, kept on their course towards the ship. One
o them had detached himself from the others and

kavT f '\'Y r^^*^^ ^'^ ^^^^^°g °^^' ^- little
kayak, of which he appeared quite regardless. He ex-

cited our compassion, and we invited him and his boat

on board, which he accepted, and the latter was soon

-il

180

THE NOitTII-W«8T PA88A0F,.

The tlespatches were delivered to the chief of the
tribi, and a gun presented tO him as his reward for
their ^a rj/irn and transit, which he --eceived with
eagerness and (l^ilight. We fully instructed him in
its use, and loaded it in his presence. He fired it
with great coolness, amid a general shout of joy from
his brethren; a hundred rounds of ball cartridge
were added to the gift. On receiving the gun, the
young men and warriors of the tribe returned to the
Cape, with a view of getting their kayaks and escorting
us back to the ship — the older men and women re-
maining. We distributed many presents, consisting
of knives, scissors, files, beads, hatchets, kettles, boilers,
vith needles and pins to the women, with which they
appeared greatly delighted. The boat was then
ordered to be got afloat ; but several who surrounded
her in the water appeared but little disposed to let
us depart, and held on by the gunwale ; a few
of the women had actually got into the boat despite
the best efforts of our men to prevent them, and
could only be removed by force. One of them, a
bold, Am:>zonian -looking creature, was a most auda-
cious and determined thief. She had made an attempt
to steal several articles, and had actually succeeded in
taking the boat's compass out of the binnacle, and
concealed it in her bosom beside her infant : when
observed, it required some force to take it from her.
One of the m ' endeavouring to retain it, was imme-
diately thrust o ^^- the boat, but made repeated

PRESENTS.

181

II.

attempts to get in again. They became exceedingly
noisy and clamorous, more particularly .hen they
saw many articles intended for presents still remaining'
which so greatly excited their cupidity that, us I wa°s
subsequently informed by the interpreter, they gave the
war whoop" for attacking and plmidering the boat-
a circumstance that we, who were ignorant of the
^"nguage, were not then aware of. All the warriors
of the tKbe had previously taken their departure •
otherwise unpleasant results might have ensued The
remainder of the presents were issued to them, when
we made them aware that we had nothing farther to
bestow and asked them to assist us in getting the
boat afloat, which some of them did. We did not
obtain much information from them with regard
to the existence of land to the northward, of which
they appeared to be quite ignorant. They said the
land of the White Bear was in that direction, at the
same time pointing to the north, which subse-
quent experience fully confirmed from the great
number we saw of these animals, and they ap-
peared to entertain an accurate idea of their prowess
and ferocity ; one of the women uttering a piteous tale
ot her child having been carried off by a bear, a short
time before, close to where we stood.

After great trouble and exertion we succeeded in
getting the boat .afloat, when we again made sail
and took leave of our friends on the beach, followed
by a mosquito fleet of seventeen kayaks, which had

178

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

have no doubt, from their appearance, they are as
valiant in war as expert in the chase. The women
were tatooed with the usual Unes on the chin. ' I was
astonished to see so many young wives and mothers
amongst them; one, in appearance and expression,
much the most interesting of the whole, had a good
complexion, large, dark, sparkling eyes, beautiful
pearl-like teeth, aquiline nose, a most luxuriant crop
of raven-black hair, small and delicatelv-formed
hands and feet, and her pleasing features radiant
with smiles of cheerful good-humour, much excited
my interest. As I advanced to make her a present,
she put a hand behind her back, and drew forth
by the legs a naked infant only two days old,
carelessly exposing it to the cold and snow then
falling. She appeared, also, much too )'Outhful to be
a wife. The child betrayed no sign of uneasiness ; but
I directed it to be returned immediately whence it
came. Several children, or rather infants, were
similarly treated ; and, as the mother's pointed to them,
it was evidently done, no less to excite our sympathy
than our liberality.

We commenced negotiations for the transmission of
the despatches with the head of the tribe, and the
elder members of it. We made them thoroughly under-
stand their nature — that they were words to our
brethren in afar country — which,. if delivered safely,
would be more valuable to them than a Whale, as they
would receive many presents. They faithfully pro-

ESQUIMAUX WOMEN.

179

raised to do what was required. We now became
on more intimate terms ; and they invited us up to
the encampment; but the interpreter did not consider
It prudent, from what he judged of their character,
to accept the invitation, and recommended that we
should return to the boat, and distribute the
presents, which to expose then might be attended
with danger, by exciting their cupidity. We, there-
fore, turned towards the boat, foUowed by all the
men, women and children— a wild and picturesque
party. Each of us appeared to have a group of
followers ; the women laying hold of our arms, and
attempting to walk with us in Eiu-opean fashion
—a degree of familiarity it was not safe to allow with
a people generally treacherous and deceitful. They
are, in this way, frequently made the agents of the
men, when an attack or plunder is premeditated,
instances of which are narrated in the early journeys
of Franklin and Richardson along this coast, when
the women laid hold of the men's arms in the boat,
with a view of ultimately overpowering, and ren'
dering them unable to offer resistance. While thus
walking, some of our people had their pockets picked,
the thief taking advantage of their arms being held
by the women. On reaching our boat we found a
few kayaks had preceded us They now became
exceedingly clamorous for presents ; and a hne of
demarcation was again drawn on the snow, only to
be passed as before.

N 2

Wfff^mmt

184

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

safely stowed in our capacious cutter. The poor
fellow being wet and cold, we gave him some bread
and meat, but he evidently did not relish it so well
as the blubber and other food familiar to him ; and
placed it in the kayak. We made him several
presents for his wife and little son, of whom he
reminded us. In tacking from time to time, he, as it
blew fresh, and the cutter inclined much to leeward,
betrayed evident signs of alarm, and clung tenaciously
to the man sitting next him; no doubt he would
have felt himself much more secure in his own
little craft.

We reached the ship about 6 p.m., after oiu- long
but very interesting excursion, wet and cold, it snow-
ing heavily at the time. Before going on board, we
presented our friend with the boarding pike and
white ensign, under which we had met his tribe,
and he appeared much gratified. The greater
number of the kayaks that had left the shore were
alongside, and were hoisted on board with their
owners generally occupying their seats.

Numerous amusing incidents occurred during their
short stay, and they participated largely in the
bounty of the men, who gave them a great quantity
of clothing, &c. One was immediately converted
into a marine, and it was amusing to witness him as
soon as he was equipped in the uniform, going to the
gangway, and holding up legs and arms successively
to his astonished brethren alongside ; displaying his

*}i

AN INVITATION.

185

I i

new costume with which he appeared uncommonly
well pleased.

We weighed anchor and stood to the south-east
to get clear of the islands, and our Esquimaux friends
were obhged to take their departure. Before leaving
the shore, the old chief, a man about sixty-eight years
of age, had civilly asked us to stop the night at the
encampment, oflPering to place his tent at our disposal •
and as they had killed a Whale, he promised us a rich
repast on its delicious blubber. It was evidently
a period of feasting with him, as is always the case
when success attends their efforts in the chase.

On the foUowing morning, (Sunday, September
1st) the weather had become milder, and the sun's
rays shortly dispelled much of the dreary aspect
of the neighbouring lands. We had reached within
about six miles of Cape Bathurst, which boro
JN- by E. and with a light wind, we continued to
move slowly along. Towards noon, two kayaks were
observed coming out in the direction of the most
northerly of the islands, gliding swiftly and gracefully
over the surface of the sea, which they barely
appeared to touch, dexterously propelled and guided
by their solitary occupants, by means of the double
bladed paddle. The ship was soon reached, and we
recognized two of our friends of yesterday, and
hoisted them and their kayaks on board ; one of the
latter was leaky, and the wily Esquimaux immediately
set about to discover the cause. Everything was

*ol

190

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

boats having visited them last summer, from whom
they obtained knives and a few buttons in barter.
One of the former they showed us. It was marked
on the blade with a Maltese cross and the letter L.
They could not give a satisfactory account as to
their numbers, but that they had gone eastward.
We scarcely knew what amount of importance to
attach to this story. Whether it was related by these
cunning people with the hope of gain, or that any
other exploring party had passed along this coast, we
were at the time ignorant ; but I think it must have
been the party of Sir John Richardson— assuming
that the Esquimaux were in error as regards the
period, it having been two summers since that expe-
dition visited the coast. They said also that one of
the former parties had told them that a great oomiak
would come along the coast, and give each of them
a gun. Now it so happened, they had observed the
ship's muskets piled together in the armoury— it having
been casually left open, and, being in an exposed part
of the ship, could not escape their observation— and
nothing could convince them that these were not the
long-expected guns; that we were for the great
oomiak they had heard of, there could exist no doubt
—a belief on their part which gave us much trouble ;
and we had some difficulty in getting them out of the
ship. We pacified them a little by saying, if we
should come again and hear of the safe arrival of our
letters, we would give a gun to each man who had

THE ESQUIMAUX. I91

caught a Whale. An agreement of this kind is by
them generally considered satisfactory. But we were
not destined to retrace our steps along the American
coast; our promise consequently remains, and is
likely to remain, unfulfilled.

About 4 P.M. the weather became foggy. They
took their departure, but it was only by hoisting out
their kayaks that they could be forced to enter them •
appeanng by no means tired of our company They
then proceeded towards the islands with extraor-
dinary speed.

The Esquimaux call themselves " Innuit." which
signifies "man;" but the name by which they are
now known is not considered to belong to their
language, which along the entire line of coast we
visited as far eastward as Cape Bathurst, did not
differ very materially from that of the natives of
Labrador and the extreme parts of the American
contment, more than what might pertain to an ordinary
degree of provincialism in other countries. Our
interpreter, however, informed me that he had less
difficulty m understanding the Cape Bathurst Esqui-
maux than those more to the westward, from its
greater similarity to the Labrador language, with
which he was thoroughly conversant. In appeamnce
they certainly favo^u- the Mongolian race. They
are met with in the north-eastern extreme of Asia
the Aleutian Islands, along the entire coast of
America, and as far eastward as Greenland, to the

188

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

occupied the centre seats to paddle, the men at
either end to direct the steering ; but all the labour
devolved on the poor women.

I took their sailor countryman to the gangway,
when they raised a wild yell, doubtless of surprise, on
seeing him. They put on their best dresses in the
boat, and came on board in holiday costume. I
remarked before it more closely resembles that worn
by the Indian women rather than the Esquimaux.
The hood is high and imposing in appearance, orna-
mented with feathers, and profusely decorated with
beads in front. It adds wonderfully to the apparent
stature of these women, and produces a generally good
effect. The owner of the leaky kayak, as soon as his
countrywomen came on board, seized one of them
and pointed out to her the hole in it. She immediately
procured a needle from him, and thread of reindeer
tendon ; and, with great quickness and cheerfulness, set
about the repair, which she quickly accomplished. I
naturally assumed she was his wife ; but such was not
the case, as I found on inquiring. This incident tends
to show with what readiness thfey work for and oblige
each other — numerous instances of which came within
my observation. They roamed freely about the ship,
were noisy and clamorous for everything they saw, and
were particularly charmed with the sight of a looking-
glass which they could not at all understand: we
gave them a few small ones, and several other presents.
They were very anxious to see the women of our

INCIDENTS.

189

tribe, and wished to know where we kept them. Some
one pointed to the officers cabins, and said they were
in those little houses— giving an idea of their domicile
by showing the interior of one ; and in this belief
they left the ship. They gave us an illustration of
one of their heathen dances to the music of their
own voices, which was grotesque, but otherwise un-
interesting. The men displayed great agility in ^
leaping over bars on the upper deck, at a much
greater elevation than our men could attempt; but
in lifting weights, they were far surpassed by the
latter, as they would have been in any other feat of
strength.

We again sought for information from them res-
pecting any parties that had visited the coast, when
they repeated truthfully all we had previously heard
of Sir* John Richardson's party. On my making
inquiry as to the appearance of the Chief of the party,
they described him most accurately; and the captor
of the Whale, who was merely an attentive listener
of the conversation, at once imitated the firm up-
right gait of my friend Sir John, by walking along
the deck ; leaving but little doubt of his being readily
recognised by these people should he again visit their
shores. Observing that we took a great interest in
all that related to the visits of travellers along the
coast, after we had presented one of the party with
a harpoon, and instructed him in its use, they
told us for the first time, of a party with three

186

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

taken out of it, and I had an opportunity of seeing
how well they were stocked, including spare materials
to repair any disaster that boat or implements
might sustain. Several others soon came on board
and walked about the ship in mute astonishment,
at what they saw. One of them fearlessly went up
the rigging on being desired to do so, as high as the
main-top, and would have gone up to the tmck, but
was prudently called down, lest an accident might
occur.

They told us there had been great excitement
amongst them the previous night in expectation of
our visit ; that they had been busily engaged in using
the cooking utensils we had given them, in preparing
large quantities of fish, venison, and whale blubber
in anticipation of a great feast in our honour, and
still appeared anxious to regale us with these delicacies.
The interesting-looking fellow who captured the Whale
was one of the party on board, and his good-humoured
smiling face and vivacity of manner made him a
favourite amongst the men. He was taken below,
and, from their united contributions, was speedily
converted into a thorough tar. Apparently much
delighted at the change he had undergone, he dis-
carded his skin clothing, and put it away in his kayak.
It was amusing to see him walking the deck in great
dignity, with his hands in his pockets, and a good
sailor-like gait. He did not appear so imposing as in
his own costume: his size and stature suffering by

INCIDENTS.

187

the change ; but he was very proud of it, and took
every opportunity of exhibiting himself to his admiring
countrymen. He went on shore as a sailor, and
doubtless proved a formidable rival to the corporal of
marmes created the day previous.

It was ludicrous to observe the others, on beholding
our fnend so largely the recipient of our bounty
become suddenly affected, an aguish tendency having
apparently set in, which, in the first instance, had
the appearance of reality, as they walked about
the deck, trembling in eveiy limb, and drawing their
skm garments at the same time closely around them
Our sympathy was excited by one who had a more
miserable appearance than the others. He was taken
below, and received a large warm flannel shirt, which
he put on under his coat. He no sooner came on
deck, than he stealthily took it off; congealed it in his
kayak, and commenced shivering as before, but to no
purpose. The trickery was discovered by an old
quarter-master, who expressed his indignation in no
measured terms ; and the aguish paroxysm, meeting
with no farther sympathy, soon disappeared. Several
had succeeded in this way in getting articles of
clothmg, before the deception was discovered. I was
led by curiosity to place my hand on their skin, which
I found to be of a high temperature. An oomiak,
containing five women and four men, whom we re-
cognised, came alongside in the course of the day
Irom a fishing excui-sion. I observed the women

192

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

south, as Hudson's Bay, and to the north as far as has
yet been explored. They entertain a very exalted idea
of their own importance, and consider themselves much
superior to the Kabloonas, or white men. They were
always very anxious to know if we were married, a
question which the interpreter considered nect ssary
to answer in the affirmative, as they entertain a great
contempt for men who are not in that happy state,
whom they consider boys ; and a man's greatness is
ever proportionate to the number of his wives. At
our last interview many of them had brought down
pieces of whale blubber for barter; but lulling in
that speculation, they devoured it ravenously — afford-
ing disgusting evidence of the great capacity of their
mouths, which they quite filled with the blubber,
cutting off with a knife what remained outside.

The physical characteristics of the Esquimaux, I
have already mentioned ; and the race we saw afforded
ample evidence of their being possessed of superior
strength. They are generally well proportioned, with
full, capacious chests and well-shaped limbs. From
several measurements which I made, the average
height was 5 feet 4^ inches ; but those apparently of
Indian origin were taller, from 5 feet 7 to '^ inches, and
in one or two instances even more. Their expression is
by no means unintelligent. The complexion is swarthy,
chiefly, I think, from exposure and the accumulation of
dirt ; the head is of good size, rather flat superiorly, but
very fully developed posteriorly, evidencing a pre-

THE ESQUIMAUX. . J 93

IJonderance of the animal passions ; the forehead was
for the most part, low and receding; in a few it was'
somewhat vertical, but narrow. The fuU-expanded
..ostr.1 broad face and high cheek-bones, were well
marked ; they possess also keen, restless, small black
eyes-the external commissure drooped somewhat.
Ihere is generally an absence of beard and whiskers or
they are represented by a few hairs ; in the old the
growth IS more luxuriant. The cavity of the mouth
« one of the most capacious I have seen, with a
regularly shaped, powerfuUy-formed lower jaw and
larg^ weU-formed teeth- the incisors presenting a
pecuharly flattened erown, as if worn down by attri-
tion from frequent mastication of hard substances.
Ihe I'ands and feet are generaily small and well
formed. They live in a heathenish state, but appear
to have an idea of the existence of a Being su-
perior to themselves, whose favour they wish to
propitiate to ensure success in the chase, or other
expeditions. This is represented by a smaU ivoiy
feteh, with the figure of some animal rudely carved
on It, which they sedulously carry about their person
but wdl part with for a suitable price.

In the Esquimaux, westward of the Mackenzie
River, we observed the lower lip perforated in
the males for the admission of labrets or lip om"
ments, w^iieh detracts much from the general expres-
mn: and when removed, th. holes beneath either
angle of the mouth, each about half an inch in

194

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

diameter, imparts an exceeedingly disgusting appear-
ance to the face. These labrets are generally formed from
different kinds of stone or ivory, such as granite, gneiss,
green-stone, lignite, &c., and are, in length, about three-
fourths of an inch, with flat or oval crowns at either
end, connected by a stock, and fashioned after the
manner of a dumb bell. They appear to be entirely
worn for the sake of ornament ; but I did not observe
them in the women, or in those tribes eastward of the
Mackenzie. The lip is perforated for the labret as
the boy approaches manhood, and is considered an
important era in his life. The septum of the nose
was perforated, in many met with along the entire
coast, by a small piece of ivory about three inches
long, tipped at either extremity with a bead. They
do not appear to attach importance to any of these
ornaments, as they will readily barter them, or any
other article of clothing or equipment, for what desire
may prompt them to possess.

Their clothing is almost universally composed of
deer-skin, the fur inwards. The lower garments are
sometimes continuous over the feet and legs ; but
more generally, the boots are separate, with a coat or
jerkin covering the body, ending behind in a peak.
A hood is attached to the coat, which is the only head-
covering they use. The dress of the women is made
sufficiently capacious to allow of their carrying their
young children (for whom they appear to entertain
much affection) either in the hood, or in contact with

THE ESQUIMACX. J 95

their skin, and they m„.,age to do it very adroitly-
many amusing instances of which we were witnesses of
Polygamy exists among them, when the women are
8uffic,ently numerous; the number of the wives de-
pendmg on the wealth of the husband, and his ability
to mamtam them. They appear to be bound by
stronger bonds of affection than is usnaUy observed
amount savage nations ; but their standard of
mora hty ,s evidently low ; and a husband will
«ad,Iy traffic with the virtue of a wife for purposes
of gam. Repeated instances of this were evinced
m our mtercourse; and no feehng of jealoiuy
appears to ex.st amongst them. The women are to
all mtents and purposes, the slaves of the men, and do
he ^ater part of the out-door work, except hunting
and fishrng: they, however, enjoy a higher position
and more consideration than is usual amongst savages.'
The women manifest affection for their children; but
the father appears to be stoically indifferent. They
are not a prolific race from all I could learn ; and
ma^e children are ever more welcome than females
Both sexes are tatooed, chiefly on the chin, angles of
the month, and across the face over the cheek bones
The operation is had recourse to as they approach the
period of puberty; and successive lines are subse-
quently added in the male, according to his prowess.
or success m war or the chase. They have no idea of
numbers, more than what is represented by the flnrers •
nor can they express their ideas of time in any other

o 2

196

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

way than by the indications afforded by moon and
sun, which are vague and unsatisfactory.

They are keen and expert hunters, and afford
ample evidence in their appearance, look and move-
ments, of being possessed of all the essentials to
ensure success in the chase ; and when so much
depends on the result of their exertions — nothing
short of their existence as a race amid the dreary
wilds of their abode — it may readily be imagined how
keenly the perceptive faculties are exercised, when
such powerful incentives are ever present to prompt
them to exertion. In regions where nature is so
sparing of her gifts, with the exception of the animals
which frequent it, I need not speak of the enduring
patience, hardships and privations, which this enter-
prizing hardy race are compelled to undergo, along
the inhosjtitable, snow-clad coast, of the Polar Sea.

They are as far as we could judge, courageous and
active — Sir J. Richardson says, "more so than any
known tribes of Indians with which he is acquainted"*
— industrious and provident, sly and cunning, and
much given to pilfering and cheating, when engaged
in barter. Numerous instances of their being possessed
of both propensities occurred on board, where their
cupidity became much excited by what they saw, and
where there existed no moral, controlling power to
restrain them. They are much addicted to falsehood,

* " Boat Voyage through Rupert's Land."

THE ESQUIMAUX.

197

and seldom tell truth, if there be anything to gain by
departing from it ; indeed, amongst some tribes lyinc, ig
said to constitute a virtue. Almost everything they
saw, they made an attempt to steal-chiefly articles
of iron from the ship-and when detected, they mani-
fested no sign of shame or remorse. I was unable to
ascertam with any degree of accuracy, what were the
prevaihng diseases among them ; cutaneous diseases
and chest affections appear the principal, as may
be mferred from their filthy habits, and rigorous
chmate. I saw several old people afflicted with
chronic bronchitis, and asthma, and one or two
had wens on the head and neck. Scurvy occurs
with more or less severity, I believe, every spring ;
and as an antiscorbutic they eat the sorrel, grasses
and mosses ; and the contents of the stomach of the
reindeer is considered by them a highly efficacious
agent. They all appear to suff"er more or less
from opthalmia— in the old people it is verv
common, with cversion of the eyelids. Several appear
to have lost their vision from opacity of cornea
the result of frequent attacks, produced by the
combined influence of snow and sunshine. I saw
none labouring under any form of congenital disease
or deformity, and from what we could learn, there is
seldom any mortality except amongst the old people
and very young children ; resulting in the latter I
should say, from the effects of exposure. When famine
exists or accidents occur, of course the case is

198

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

different. Their ingenuity in constructing implements
of war and the chase, in preparing skins, so as to
render them waterproof, in the building of huts,
and that triumph of architectural skill the snow
house ; the perseverance and tenacity no less than the
success with which they follow the chase ; their
powers of patience, and endurance of cold and hunger,
are unequalled by any other race on the face of the
globe.*

I trust the day is not far distant when the light of
civilization will dawn on this poor, benighted, but
intelligent race of beings; for it is deplorable to
think that there exists in the Queen's dominions
people so utterly neglected as they have been, with-
out an effort having ever been made by the rulers of
their land (Hudson's Bay Company) to ameliorate
their condition, or remove them from a state of
heathen darkness. But where monopoly exists, pro-
gress is arrested ; and it is to be hoped the wisdom
of our legislature will, ere long, destroy the one and
promote the other, and thus develope the resources
of their country to the permanent advancement and
happiness of its inhabitants. The laudable example
shown by the Moravian brethren on the dreary
coast of Labrador, and the good results which have

* For full and interesting details concerning these extra-
ordinary people, I beg to refer the reader to the admirable and
interesting narrative of Sir John Richardson, in his "Boat
Voyage through Rupert's Land."

THE ESQUIMAUX.

199

attended their meritorious labours in the work of
civihzation, is worthy of oui- imitation, and will, I
trust, be followed.

The facility attending the opening of steam com-
munication, by means of vessels of light draught of
water, along the coast of America during the summer
months, has been fully established by the results of
our voyage; presenting a fair field for the commercial
spirit and enterprize of our country, and every pros-
pect of remunerative advantage.*

* Since the above remarks were sent to press, I am happy to
say, that this subject has been brought under the notice of the
House of Commons by the Secretary of State for the Colonies
(Right Hon. H. Labouchere), and a select committee have been
appomted to inquire into the same, as well as into the expe-
diency of renewing the Charter to the Hudson's Bay Company;
its validity having been questioned from the noii-fulfilment of
the conditions on which it was originally granted.

200

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

t ii
lii

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Cape Bathurst — Aurora Borealis — Ice — Currents
— Franklin Bay — Rain — River Horton — Aspect of Land — A
Bear — Refraction — Strange Appearances on Shore — Report
of the Ice Mate — The Ice— A Boat despatched to the Shore

— Whales and Seals — Cause of strange Appearances —
Volcanic Mounds — Weather — Difficulties — Character of
Coast — Incident on Board — The Evening — Ship Beset —
Cape Parry — Laud discovered to the N.E. — Opinions —
Positiop at Evening — Sunset — Aspect at Morning —
Possession of Land — Name bestowed — Its Character and
Incidents — Appearance of Headland and Coast — Birds seen
— Progress — Incidents — Shape a Course to Norch-East —
Weather — Difficulties — Sight of Land — Hopes and Con-
jectures — Currents — Temperature, &c. — Discovery of Prince
Albert's Land — Discovery of Islands — Appearance of Sea

— Position — Weather — Ship Beset — Gloomy Evening —
Occupation — Change of Prospects — Attempt to force a
Passage and Failure — Position — Amusements — Altered
Aspect of Ice — Secure to Ground Ice — Sudden Departure
— Difficulties — Birds.

We stood off the land until the impenetrable pack
was again encountered, and as there was no water
to be afeen to the north, we kept along its edge

ATJllORA B0REALI8.

201

to the E.S.E., through heavy loose ice. We had
long hoped our eflPorts from this prominent point of
coast would be successful, only to be again dis-
appointed by the same obstacles; but as we were
approaching that meridian in which land had been
seen thirty years before, some three hundred miles
to the northward, we never relinquished the idea
that a better fortune was in store for us.

The Aurora Borealis was faintly seen for the first
time on the night of the 1st September, but was
much obscured by the dense haze which prevailed —
it extended from N.E. to S.W. The force of a
current setting N. 14° W. from 20 to 25 miles a
day, nearly antagonized the power of the wind,
and it was not until the 3rd, that we got to the
Eastward of Cape Bathurst, and entered Franklin
Bay, having been off the former for the previous
three days. On the 2nd, we saw two White Whales,
{Beluga Borealis) and a Narwhal {Monodon Monoceros)
going to the westward. The trending of the pack
edge brought us into a fine capacious bay, the limits
of which we could not discern, bearing the honoured
name of Franklin. Large floes which had drifted
oft' from the land were met with at its entrance;
they assumed a much bolder and more elevated
character ; and the water had become much deeper,
the soundings varying from 63 to 115 fathoms.
Pleavy rain fell on the night of the 3rd and morning
of the 4th, which was followed by a rise of tem-

202

THJi NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

perature from 32° to 45", and the weather became
much more agreeable than it had lately been, the
wind at the same time gradually veered round to
the west. On the afternoon of the 4th, we were
off the entrance of the river Horton, where the water
as usual became more discoloured and lower in density.
As we approached it, several shoals were passed over
in ten and thirteen fathoms of water— doubtless caused
by the accumulation of alluvial deposit. The land
on either side of this river, gradually rises to an
elevation of nearly 200 feet, with numerous small
mounds and ridges scattered on its surface, which
on casual observation much resembled huts. Smoke
was observed some distance along the coast to the
southward, which was anxiously watched, for any
sign that could indicate the presence of human
beings, apparently it proceeded from an ordinary fire.
As evening closed in, we had not reached sufficiently
near to satisfy our curiosity on this point.

A large White Bear was discovered swimming
towards a piece of ice, but too distant for pursuit j
several Whales and Seals were also seen, and numerous
flocks of Ducks in the course of the day — the latter
going southward. The refractive powers of the
atmosphere appeared to wonderful advantage at
various periods of the day; the loose floating ice,
presenting a beautiful columnar structure, which
became so closely identified with the land, that an
unpractised eye would fail to discover the latter ; the

FIRE.

203

glassy smoothness of the water, and the larger masses
of ice interposed over its surface, contributed much
to the beautiful effect produced.

Rain fell heavily on the morning of the 5th,
but towards noon the weather became calm and clear.
Smoke was again observed -rising vertically against
the dark back ground of the land, which appeared
about 250 feet high. Its continuance had much
increased the interest we had felt on first observino- it,
as it was not unreasonable to suppose, a fire might
have been kindled by people who possessed no other
means of attracting observation. We considered it
very improbable that the Esquimaux would have
kept up a fire for so long a period, and as they
are never without boats, that they would have
attempted to communicate before this. We could
only arrive at one of two conclusions — either that it
was a fire kindled by strangers, or that it proceeded
from some igneous agency in the soil; the former
opinion however prevailed, as the ice master reported
from the mast-head that he saw the flame of the fire,
huts on the shore, and people moving about in light
coloured clothes.

Lieutenant Cresswell and myself were despatched
in the second whaleboat to ascertain the truth of
this report. The spot being distant about ten miles
from the ship, we had a long pull, in the course of
which we met with a great number of Whales—at
one period we counted no less than fifteen above water.

204

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAdK.

several of vvhidi camo quite close to us, mul might
witli facility have been harpooned. Seals were also
numerous ; they were moving about quite sluggishly,
apparently free from care or strife, and equally ignorant
of the harpoon of the Estpiimaux. When wo ap-
proached the shore, there'renuiiniul no doubt as to the
cntii-e absence of a fire, and the other creations of the
ice-master's imagination ; the smoke being entircsly the
result of chemical action in the soil— slender columns
of it emanating from small mounds, were borne along
the precipitous coast by a light vvcstcriy breese. The
boat grounded some distance from the bench ; and, on
stepping out, I sunk deeply into soft clay. I found
that a land-slip had evidently taken i)lacc. Tlie soil was
of bituminous sluUe ; clay and loam, of a red, black,
and yellow colour were singularly blended together.
Dense colunms of smoke issued from miniature
volcanic mounds ; not from any well-defined crater, but
from their top, into which a pole could be thrust, as if
into a cavity —so little adherent were its particles—
Jiiul large masses of lime and sulphur, variously com-
bined with other elements of the soil, including alum
and silenito, were then dug out in a biu-ning state.
Their surface appeared as if in a state of fermentation,
from the light spongy nature of the soil, and so hot
that we could not stand on it many minutes. These
mounds formed quite a little amphitheatre, inclining
from the sea at an angle of 45°, and elevated in height
from ten to thirty feet. Several of them were stru-

CHARACTER OP LAND.

205

tifiod with bliick and yellow alternately—clay and
sulphur ; and others had quite a laminated appearance,
stood entirely detached, and were chiefly composed
of (lurk, rich loam. In the intervening space be-
tween them, I observed numerous bright yellow
lines, fonrfed on the black surface, not more than
half an inch deep ; being sulphur deposited from
the line of smoke, strongly impregnated the atmo-
sphere. There were several small rills of running
water, elevated in temperature, in various states
of combination, with the sulstances mentioned,
into which sulphuric acid entered largely, from its
taste and action on cloth, and other substances
with which it came in contact. The general ap-
pearance of this part of the coast conveyed to my
mind an idea of similar chemical agency having
previously existed on the bed of the ocean, prior
to which, the sedimentary deposit from the super-
incumbent water may have filled up the interstices
of the cones, so as to impart tlmt line of evenness
and uniformity it now presents. A distinct line
of demarcation ran horizontally along the coast, as
far as we could observe, dividing it into two equal
portions; the lower half presenting a vertical surface
to the sea, as if a section had abruptly fallen off
from Avant of sufficient cohesion to maintain its
primitive form ; and displaying to the eye the same
variegated and stratified appearance of black, red,
and yellow, I had observed existing in the small

i; !

206

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

mounds from recent action. The upper half partook
more or less irregularly of what the upper half of
a cone might be supposed to represent ; receding
from the lower at an angle about 20°, with the beds
of water-courses, or rather small cascades intervening ;
and altering in some places its conical character, which,
during the season of thaw would doubtless present a
very picturesque appearance. This was the most
eastern and last point of the continent of America
we had an opportunity of visiting. After nearly an
hour's examination of the locality, we took our de-
parture for the ship — that had stood in towards the
shore to meet us — which we reached, escorted, aa
before, by numerous Whales and Seals, whose gambols
in the water much enlivened our cruise.

During our absence, a volcano of some activity had
been discovered in the main hold, caused by an
accident in the apparatus connected with Sylvester's
stove ; but it was extinguished without much damage
or destruction of stores. As evening closed in, the wind
freshened considerably from the west, and subsequently
south-west. The night was dark and dreary, and
sailing through loose ice, we came into heavy collision
with it frequently. There was every evidence, from
the heaving of the ship, of there being a good ex-
panse of open water to the northward, and the wind
being off shore, we expected to see the ice driven
well oflP on clearing the bay the following morning.

Having made good progress during the night, at

Ii ■

LAND DISCOVERED.

207

4 A.M. on the morning of the 6th, Cape Parry was
observed ; and as no impediment lay in our course,
N. 55° E., it was^soon rounded— having passed a
small island off it in twenty-two fathoms water. The
Cape, vinvved at a distance, appeared bold and lofty,
between four and five hundred feet high, and gra-
dually identifying itself with the lower land stretching
away to the south-east. The strong south-westerly
wind, as we predicted, had set the ice oflp the coast,
and although still in an ice-encumbered sea, there
was a large expanse of intervening water which
enabled us steadily to continue our advance, as all
eyes were anxiously turned to the north.

At 11-30 A.M., the joyful report of "land on the
port bow " was proclaimed from the mast-head ; and
as noon dispelled the haze which hung around its lofty
outline, and revealed it to our delighted eyes, it bore
from N.E. to E.N.E. distant about thirty miles. I
need not attempt to describe the feeling of joy which
this pleasing intelligence diffused amongst us; of
the hopes indulged in, or the variety of opinions
entertained and freely expressed. All eyes were
directed towards it for the remainder of the day,
anxiously looking forward to our soon reaching this
newly discovered territory. Some thought it would
prove to be a continuation of WoUaston Land, others
that of Banks' Land as we had then nearly reached its
meridian j but whichever it might prove to be, the
interest was absorbed by the feeling of confidence

iiirn"-]i>n

ilii

h i

.; 1

1 , ! j
li : J

208

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

\inivcrsally entertained that the land before us would
prove a certain guide to lead us to the nortliward —
perliaps to Melville Island. •

The wind gradually fell light towards evening, and
we continued working through loose ice until we had
rcaclKxl within ten miles of our discovery; which
appeared still bolder and more imposing in its outline.
As if to add to the cheerful feeling we experienced,
the sunset was peculiarly beautiful, tinting the
western horizon with colours no effort of art could
pourtray — the most brilliant scarlet and crimson,
stratified on a rich neutral ground, formed by a
harmonious blending of all the elementary colours of
the rainbow, a picture of pure Arctic scenery, still-
ness and beauty, which cast an auspicious halo around
this new land.

Having advanced slowly durhig the night, at
8 A.M. we had reached within two miles of the
magnificent headland we had just seen, and could
obtain no soundings at 1 20 fathoms. Preparations
were at once made for landing, and taking formal
possession of it in Her Majesty's name. Accordingly
at 9.40, Captain M'Clure and myself left the ship in
the third whale boat, followed by Lieutenant Cresswcll,
and as many of the officers as could be spared, in the
first cutter. The morning was cold, but with a fine
clear atmosphere, and a fresh breeze from the north-
east, with joyful hearts we pulled towards the shore.
As we approached, we found the ice stiill packed on

BARING LAND.

soo

the shore, that obliged us to get out and haul the
beat over the floes into clear water, which led us on
to a fine pebbly beach, eastward of the Cape
extending out for some distance, and it could be
distinctly seen to be of great depth from its perfect
transparency.

On landing we unfurled a red ensign, and planting
the flagstaff" in the soil, took formal possession in the
name of our Most Gracious Sovereign, with three
hearty cheers, and one cheer more; bestowing on our
discovery the name of "Baring," after the First Lord
of the Admiralty, under whose auspices the expedi-
tion had been fitted out. A scroll, containing the
ship s name, and those of the officers, &c., was placed
in a bottle, and carefully secured in a cask fixed ^n
the soil, with a pole about fifteen feet high attarhed
to attract the attention of anv bsec^uent visitors to
Banng Land.

Although it subsequently proved to be continuous
with Banks' Land, a portion of whose northern out-
Ime was seen by the lute Sir Edward Parry (that
distinguished pioneer of Arctic discovery) from Mel-
viUe island, thirty years previous, he had never
landed on it, and as we were entirely ignorant of its
contmuity at the time, there could exist no possibility
of a doubt, of our right to take possession of, and
name it, as we did.

We at once proceeded to make a hasty exploration
of the land, and meeting with a rivulet on our way.

J ■

I i

210

THK NORTH-WEST PASSAOE.

paused to drink the Quocu's health, with a blessing,
in sonietliing stronger tluin the limpid element, that
formed a part of the beverage. 1 detached myself,
with an attendant, to procure whatever specimens of
Natural History the land afforded : its surface i)re.
scnting quite a different character to that we had
lately visited on the main. Instead of a rich,
luxuriant peat soil, sterility and barrenness met
the view; sand, shingle, and broken stones, with
patches of verdure intersperaed here and there, orna-
mented with a few pretty little saxfraginous and
other plants, formed the oases of a scene, they
pleasingly relieved and enlivened. As we had landed
on the broken land eastward of the Cape, the
ascent was rendered extremely difficult from the mass
of de'bris and large rugged stones strewn over its
surface. I had, however, nearly attained its summit,
when I was reluctantly obliged to forego any further
ascent, it having been determined to return to the
ship, then working along the shore ; and as we knew
not how soon wo might bo compelled to seek refuge
here, it was ever an object of solicitude to seek
for traces of animal life, of which in this short
excursion we found abundant evidence. IVacks
of Musk-Oxen, Reindeer, Bears, and Foxes were ob-
served, with portions of the horns and antlers of the
two mer, forand the skull of a Bear ; a few Hares
were the only living animals seen. Stones and
pebbles of every variety of granite, and other volcanic

nelson's head.

211

and aqueous products, were strewn along the beach ;
but the geological character of tlie land was of lime-
stone formation, evident from the different specimens
I procured.

The men were equally busy in their explorations,
and were delighted with the short run they had had
on land, which they familiarly called their own.

The appearance of this coast, when viewed from
the sea, standing on a north-east course from Cape
Parry, is bold and lofty ; it gradually falls away on
either side from its southern extreme, or angle in
lat. 71° 5' N., long. 123° W., extends in one direc
tion to the north-west, and in the other to the east-
south-cast. The headland itself wo estimated at
850 feet in height, but the summit of higher land
could be seen in the interior, not less that 1000 feet ;
this presented a strikingly grand and imposing appear'
ance, and to it the name of " Nelson " was given, in
remembrance of a hero, not hitherto honoured 'by
Arctic discoverers in the bestowal of their favours.
The altitude gradually decreased on either side, until
it ended in a low beach, some eighteen or twenty
mUes to the eastward, and then rose again in
an undulating background, forming a continuous
amphitheatre of ill-defined hills, so close to each
other as to establish an apparent continuity of sur-
face, but which are really separated by tortuous val-
leys and ravines. " Nelson's Head," therefore, as it
IS called, presents a bold, precipitous front, rising

r z

i -. g i J. .j^ ' ijlii ? - jii i -^jui giji S BM ' '*j.jJga^

212

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

almost vertically from the water's edge. It is of lime-
stone formation, the lower third of dark brown stra-
tification, above which it assumed a lighter colour
of reddish yellow, such as a ferruginous coating
might impart. This was surmounted by a dark grey
columnar formation, much resembling irregularly-
formed basaltic columns, with joints or fissures
similar to what is usually observed in that forma-
tion ; the whole capped by a covering of soil. The
line of stratification dipped about 10° or 15° in an
E.S.E. direction, and became lost as the land de-
creased in elevation. This dip was remarkable, and
a prominent feature in the formation, but was less
evident and more horizontal to the eastward, until
finally lost in the dunes or low hills I have men-
tioned, where an abortive attempt at the same forma-
tion could be traced for some distance along the
coast. A large quantity of debris had collected at its
base.

As we only landed on the beach, and as time did
not permit us to reach the cliffs, I am unable to say
whether fossils are or are not to be found here;
but, from the analogy subsequently afforded else-
where on the island, I am inclined to speak iv. the
affirmative. On the beach, granitic, quartzose, mica-
ceous, clay-siate, and other varieties of water- worn
pebbles were iu abundance .

Tlie appearance this bold headland presented while
approaching the shore in the boat, and when viewed in

!M I

I hi:

BIRDS.

213

profile, was exceedingly fine; indeed I may state that
Its sublimity and grandeur, was only equalled by
Its picturesque beauty-producing an effect, I have
seldom seen surpassed, and recaUing forcibly to
mmd, but on a scale of greater magnitude, the finest
of our old gothic structures and casteUated mansions
according as its position varied with our progress • but
viewed from whatever point, it presented a grand and
imposing aspect.

Having returned to the ship, we continued for the
remamder of the day working along the land, the
outline of whT ■ hecame more irregular as its ele-
vation decrea ., lorming shallow indentations, or
bays of limited extent; the background rising
graduaUy to a height of 300 or 400 feet. It prese' >-- ■
a brown, arid appearance, from the scantiness oi its
vegetation, but which I have no doubt is sufficiently
abundant for its herbivorous inhabitants.

We saw several flocks of Brent and Snow Geese
the Fulmar Petrel, a flock of Ducks and a few Snow
Buntmgs, in the course of the day ; but faUed to procure
a smgle specimen. Our skill was evidently exceeded
by our eagerness. As evening advanced, our pros-
pects assumed a still more cheering aspect~a vast
expanse of water lay before us to the eastward-
scarcely a particle of ice was anywhere to be seen

The following morning (Sunday 8th), we still
advanced, working against a strong wind along our
newly discovered coast. The usual Sunday routine

•mm

214

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

was gone through by mustering at divisions, and
performing Di', iiie Service ; and truly thankful did
we fee! to the Giver of all good for the abundance of
His mercies in guiding us thus far so providentially
on our course, amidst the dangers and difficulties
which had everywhere surrounded us. The weather
continued clear and fine ; a flying mist occasionally
present, did not obscure our view of the land, close to
which, in water varying from ten to seventy-six
fathoms, we continued our advance. Its aspect did
not differ materially from what I have before noticed ;
merely presenting a less elevated and more open
character, as numerous large inclined plains were
from time to time exposed to view. The soundings
obtained were evidently identical with the character
of the land, which was no doubt, at a remote period,
upheaved from the bed of the ocean from the effect
of Plutonic agency.

We had anxiously watched the bending of the
coast the entire day; and as each successive point
was rounded, ever hoped to see it turning off in a
northerly or north-east direction, as we kept as close
to the shore as circumstances would allow. It was
not, however, until 8 p.m., as darkness was setting in,
that we found we had, at length, rounded its eastern
extreme ; then following its outline, we altered course to
north-east, and brought the land on our portbow, which
converted the previous adverse wind into a fair one,
by keeping the sliip away a few points.

Land discovered.

215

On the morning of the 9th, the weather underwent
a marked change. The wind shifted round to the
south-east ; it became dense and foggy, at times ob-
scuring the land from our view, along which we stiU
continued to run on a noi-th-east course with the aid
of a light breeze. The water was smooth, nearly
free from ice— a few loose pieces only being
occasionaUy met with. Towards noon, the fog
having partially cleared away, land was observed
to the eastward on our starboard beam, running
parallel to that along which we were advancing,
distant about eight or ten miles. It was of the
same appearance and character, and, as far as we
were able to see, was running likewise in a north-
easterly direction. Unfortunately, however, the fog
soon again obscured it from view— the transient one
we had obtained only added to our previous anxiety.
It appeared to have dispersed only to afford us a
momentary glance at this addition to our territorial
accessions, and discover another land to vie with that
of Baring, on which our eyes still fondly rested. With
the exception of an occasional faint glimpse of its out-
line, it was not seen for the remainder of the dej,
and the fog hung heavily over both lands ; still we con-
tinned to advance with all sail set, not knowing when
our progress might be arrested. Many and various
were the conjectures formed, and opinions expressed, as
to what the land would prove to be, or where the water
m which we sailed would lead. We continued in a *

2ie

TMK NOIITII-WRBT l'A»!»AUK.

Htnto of pftinftil doubt mul »inc(^rtiunty- -our iiuiuIh
•vgitnUnI by Nuccoftsivd liH^Hngn ol' hopo iu;,l joy,
but (loMpuir »»(»rf»»- HH to wlmt u cltMir Mtiito
of tho atniosplioni iuigl>t ivvv\x\. Uiifiu'tuniitoly,
our vSurpriNo was not n<uiovr<l for tlio r<Muiiin<lrr
of tlio (lay, U8 tho fog bociiuui nu)^) {\mm
tlmn bt'fon», «ntl wo ooutiuuml Mtill groping our way
ihinugh un unknown Hon. A fow pioiun of lloiiiing
iw woix> (wcuHituuilIy tnt^t with, ono of wlucli, for a
aluu't (inu» nlurcKHl our pntgrosH. Tlio wutor whh (hnip
fiXMU a5 to 75 futluuus. mul froni )l\) to .IT in touipo-
mtuiv. witli n tlouHity of I02x' A (lurivnt wuh foun«l
sotting to tho wostwunl at tho rnto of ID niilos in 24
hours; tho ton»porutui>o of air \\m I'iihu IMV to 'M\°,
coUl anil raw, anil tho vju-iation of tho oompass was
found to bo [){V oastorly.

Marly on tho morning of tho iOth, the joyful intol-
ligoiKw of laud on oithor ([uartor was roportod im
tlay atlvai\ood, nntl the fog olo»u\'d away, it oould
bo stvn ruiuung in a parallel dii-oction on oithor sido
nvs far jus tho eye ooidil ivaoh ; and tho hope so ardently
ontertainovl, that this lino shoot of water might prove
a Stmit wjis likely to bo nnilizttl, us wo unin-
tornmtotUy pui-sued our way to the northward. Still
the same anxious feelings porvadotl our minds ; and
ono almost felt afniid to give exprowssion to one's
hopes ; lest the ivports fn)n» the mast-head, fnupiently
{18 they eame, might destroy thom.

At 8 A.M., when ruiming in mid-ehannel, tho land

IHI-ANDR DTHnoVRRKt).

217

on oithnr nUU\ iViMmi Horno hIx or Rcvmi miles, un
iHl»m<l wuM obucrvod bearing N.N.l!),, about ten milcM
(liNtaiit.

Ho Htnoolli and traiupiil wiw tho Hurfaro of tho watero
—tnoroly nj)i)|»)(l by a (Mirl to indicate the preHcnce of
tho ligljt breeze which b.)re uh Hteadily onward—that
we were forcibly reminded of the lakes in Homo of the
wild and pictureHqne localities of our native land ;
varied, here however, by u line of stupendous ko',
stretching far away alon^r (sithcr Hhoro. 'I'owards tuxm
W(5 were abreast of the islaruJ, and instead of there
being only one m we (Irst suppoNed, there wcsre two—
tho smaller ami more northerly being in tho same lino,
was concealed by the larger, froni which it was
distant about half a mile.

We had made such wonderfully good progress
throughout the earlier part of the day, that at noon
we were only sixty miles distant from tho known
northern limit of Banks' Land, to lead us into Barrow's
y trait, andconsequiiutly to the discovery of a Passage.
Our hopes then, indeed ran high; but only soon
to ebb, equally low. At 3 p.m. instead of the
bright and cheering aspect wo had enjoyed for some
days, tho wind suddenly changed into the N.N.E.
directly adverse to our further progress, and set the
ico, not previously in sight, down towards us. Where
clear water existed but a short time before, wns now
an icy sea. We continued to tack for the remainder
of the day as was requisite, whenever the presence of

218

THE NOUTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I .

narrow lanes of water enabled us to steer the ship ;
but were often temporarily beset, as the ice closed
from time to time around us. The change of wind
had brought with it a marked diminution of tem-
perature, with snow and fog : thus evening closed
around us, as wild, gloomy and cheerless as it is
possible to conceive ; and in that quarter to which our
eyes had been so constantly directed, where all our
hopes were concentrated, nothing could be discerned
but an impenetrable icy barrier. But, our hopes
were not destroyed — we knew how a short period
might alter even this dismal aspect of affairs : and our
position was, at least, attended with one good effect —
it enabled us to arrive at the conclusion, then more
probable than ever, that the sheet of water in which
we floated was a Strait : from the fact that the ice
had suddenly come down on us from the north-east,
the gradual divergence of the lands, then about
twelve miles distant from each other, and the increase
in the depth of water, soundings having been
•obtained from 70 to 80 fathoms. Under these cir-
cumstances there was great ground for hope, and
we hoped for the best.

The ice which had been setting down toward us
during the night, had early on the morning of the
11th, seized us in its grasp, and the ship became
beset. By filling and backing the sails, in a few
hours, we forced her through the barrier into a small
space of open water, which enabled us, by tacking,

OUR PROGRESS.

219

almost incessantly, to work through narrow intervening
channels.

Thus we laboured, endeavouring, at least, to main-
tain our position until noon, when we were again beset
about two miles distant from the eastern shore
(Prince Albert's Land), on which the loose ice was
then being drifted ; and to obviate our being borne
with it, the ship was secured with ice-anchors to the
nearest large piece of floe-ice in fifty fathoms water.
The wind in the morning had changed to north-west,

and towards evening became still more westerly a

change we hailed with gladness, in the hope that the
ice might again be drifted in the direction from
whence it came, ai^d that, if we could not extricate
ourselves, we might be drifted with it, amid its perils
and dangers, to the northern extremity of the Strait
(if it were one), into Barrow Strait. As the aspect
of this icy element is ever varying, fortunately for us,
it again opened out a little, and as we were being
drifted with it on the shore, we were enabled to cast
off from the floe, escape the threatened danger, and
make sail through narrow channels of water, en-
deavouring to get to the northward j but our progress
for the remainder of the day was inconsiderable,
and night closed in again intensely cold, wild, and
dreary—the wind freshening, snow faUing, and the
temperature of air at 20°. The state of the ice
a-head afforded anything but a cheering prospect, as we
knew not the moment our progress might be arrested,

220

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I I

i^''

and the ship, perhaps, immoveably fixed in its grasp
for the winter.

There was but little change in the general gloomy
aspect around us on the morning of the 12th. We
continued to take advantage of every open space that
could be reached, through the heavy-packed ice that
kept setting down on us; and notliing but one
uniform frozen field could be seen to the northward.
Towards noon we found all further efibrts to advance
impossible ; and the ice gradually closing, we became
firmly beset. The ship was attached to a floe of
great extent — its undulating, hummocky surface,
purely white from the recent snow, with numerous
frozen ponds interspersed throughout, presented a
striking feature in the scene.

The evening wore an uncommonly bleak aspect,
snow fell continuously, the sky was overcast and lower-
ing, with frequent heavy squalls ; in short all around
was dull, gloomy, and dismal. We were in high
spirits, notwithstanding, and amused ourselves in
sliding and skating on the ponds — both being a
novelty to many. Frequent and heavy were the
falls, and no less loud and hearty the laugh which
resounded over the dreary ice waste, in evidence of
the pleasure we experienced. The rudder was un-
shipped in the forenoon — not that we expected to
do without it, but that, in the event of our being
subject to heavy pressure, it might be in a safe
position.

ICK OPERATIONS.

221

On the 13th, we found that we had not hoped
in vain for a change in the aspect of affairs -transient
though this was, and slight in degree ; yet, instead of
that dreary wildness pertaining to snow-storms, we
had a clear, dry atmosphere with a temperature of
1 5°. The ship had drifted a little to the southward,
from our greater proximity to the isl, ids ; but as the
sun shone forth towards noon, we had the extreme
satisfaction of seeing the ice gradually relax its frigid
grasp, and the wind from the westward slowly driving
it towards the shore of Prince Albert's Land, left
a space of water of sufficient extent to warp her
towards the centre of the Strait. All hands (officers
and men) then manned the capstan with cheerfulness
and alacrity — the hawsers having been previously laid
out with ice-anchors by a cutter and whale boat in
the large floe to which we intended to go. This
was reached in the course of an hour, thereby
gaining nearly 300 yards, and we were only separated
from another sheet of open water by a narrow isthmus
of ice about 40 yards wide, but through which we
could not possibly pen.-^trate. The ship was conse-
quently made fast to the floe, which apparently ex-
tended uninterruptedly to the shore, as any further
efforts to advance then would have proved utterly
abortive. The report from the mast-head being
favourable, as to the existence of narrow channels of
water to the northward, could we only reach them.

Ill

i i

< 'I

222

TIIR N0RTII-WK8T PA88AGR.

we hoped soon to tnko advantage of a more fnvoumblo
disposition of the elements.

We unmsed ourselves on the ice ns before. A
solitary iK-k of Ducks were seen winding their way
to the north- west ; and several Gulls were hovering
about, one of wiiich, the Glaucous Gull {Lnrus
Olaueus), fell a victim to his curiosity, having boldly
approached within a few yards of the ship. The
land on either side had assumed its winter garb,
but the sun had still a slight counteracthig influence
as was evidenced by the few traces of its dark
brown surface that were revealed by his presence.
The temperature was daily decreasing, having fallen
to 10° ; there was, therefore, every indication of the
advent of winter ; but we still hoped that the outlet
of our new strait would yet be reached.

On the morning of the 14th, the ice presented a
more open appeanuice ; and to force a passage through
the opposing l)arrier all our energies were called into
activity. Ice anchora were laid out on the floes a-
head, and the capstan was again manned by all hands ;
but we advanced only by inches, now veering on one
hawser, then hauling on another ; and our efforts, after
sevend hours toil, proved utterly futile. The saws
were had recourae to; and, after working them
for some time, we again found our labour had been
exj)ended in vain. We then experienced how per-
plexing was ice navigation. What a tax on the
resources and energies of man ; indeed, what perse-

OCCUPATIONS.

223

voranco was demanded to sur mount the obfitaclcs ever
to be met with, those alone can judge who have been
placed in i)osition8 similar to what ours had been for
the previous few days.

As the wind from the north-west had gradually
closed the few remaining small channels of water,
young ice was rajjidly forming ; and we were again
closely beset. The general aspect of affairs was
then extremely unfavourable, t le sk} being cloudy
and overcast, snow falling, w di an i- / cold blast
which froze its flakes together is the;, fell on our
beards and moustache, nearly glut^ng up the mouth
and eyelids. The amusements afforded by sliding
had an admirable effect on the minds of our crew ;
antagonizing as it did, that depressing influence
which our position could not otherwise fail to produce,
and rendered them cheerful and active when the time
for exertion came. Few could have supposed that
helpless, ice-bound mariners as we were, with our ship
in a most critical position, we could have experienced
so much enjoyment. In the course of a few hours the
wind had gradually veered into the south-west, the
ice was observed to open in various directions, and a
line of water was seen running along the western
shore. On the following morning, Sunday the 15th,
the westerly wind which had driven the ice from the
opposite shore, set it down on that on which we were
beset ; but the lanes of water in sight having become
more numerous and larger, another effort was made

224

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

in the middle watcli to reach some of them, in the
hope that they might lead us into the wide expanse of
the same clement then formed on the western shore,
where, the day before, there was not a vestige to be seen.
All hands were again called to exertion, but failed to
move the ship more than a few inches ; and we were
ultimately obliged to fall back on our original position,
awaiting a more propitious state of things with the
coming daylight.

As morning advanced, we had the satisfaction of
f oeing that the wind was from the south, with a higher
temperature, while we were drifting northward
with the heavy ice in which we were impacted ; this
gradually relaxing its grasp, at 9 a.m. we found
ourselves in a small space of water, the ice around us
disposed to break up, from the appearance of fissures
throughout the floes, and narrow lanes of water just
perceptible. That channel which it was then our object
to reach, was distant about 200 yards, and could be
seen to communicate with the open sea on the oppo-
site side. By our united efforts, we expected to force
the ship through the intervening field of ice; but,
unless aided by the wind to break up the floe, this
would be impossible. Indeed, the work appeared to
be very much li^e an impracticability.

Ice anchors were first laid out, and hove on from the
capstan, when we irr>ved a little. Others were laid
out in different places, so as to swing the ship in that
direction where the ice appeared most open. We at

1 •

OUR niOORESS.

225

length attained a position which enabled us to make
sail ; and we went a-head a few yards, but shortly,
were again beset. The ice anchors were once more
had recourse to— occasionally astern that we might
retrace our steps a little, or warp the ship where the
ice appeared weak or loose, or turn the opposing floes
out of our course. By these means, we advanced in
a slow but progressive degree. Struggling on fear-
lessly, we reached a heavy floe piece, and, as the ship
struck, remained for some time pressing agai \st
it. Some men being then sent on the neighbouring
floe, were about to commence operations in another
direction, when most unexpectedly this obstacle di-
vided into numerous large fragments ; and, in a few
minutes, with a loud, grating noise, the ' Investigator'
having forced her way through, was in clear water,
making all sail for the western shore. Towards noon,
we had got into a fine expanse of water ; and, as we
steered along the shore of Baring Land experienced
a regular swell of the sea— evidencing open water
far to the southward. As the ice would, doubtless,
be drifted still further to the northward, we kept oft'
its edge about half a mile, ready to take advantage
of any opening that might present itself. We con-
tinned, therefore, tacking off and on until evening,
when, observing a heavy floe piece about ten feet out
of wnter grounded in live fathoms, and about one
hundred yards fi-om the shore, wo stood in towards it,
and made ftist for the night. on" its northern side. We

(

320

TIIU NORTIf-WKHT PASMA(»K.

could not but fed satisluMl nt tlu« position om*
exertions htu\ onublod ns to attain, as wo l(X)ko(l on
tho (ino shoot of wator that wo liad boon so anxious,
hut ft few short hours bnfon^ to roach, and tlio distant
pack on tho opposito shore, IVotu whioii wo had so
ha])pily eaoapod. Our ship then hvy resting against
tlic Hot), as if woarieil witli tho conflict, and ahunbor-
ii»g after tho desperate but sui^cesaful struggle of tiie
morning. Our men, who had worked with the
utmost zeal anrl activity throughout that trying dfty,
had early retired to their hanunocks, with every pros-
pect of the southerly wind effecting much in cm'
favour during the night, when about 9 v.m. tho ice
was observed in motion, rapidly ftpproft(5hing our
position from the opposite shore ; and the anticipated
rest WJ18 suddeidy disturbed by the call of duty. Our
position was, by some, considered critical, as the im-
mense body of ice setting down on us would, it was
supposed, have afforded but snuiU chance of escape,
and, in i\ll probability, might have set us on shore.

Others with tho ice master, thought our jiosition
was rendered qaito safe, fi-om the protection afforded
by the floe, and advised our remaining, rather than
run the risk of being again beset — a view of tlui
question in which I entirely concuri'cd. It was,
however, decided otherwise, and orders were given to
cast oft' from the floe and make sail to the southward.
The ice was then not more than one hundixxl yards fi-om
us, and formidable as its grim outline appeared in the

IHI'KICUI.TIKH.

227

I'Hrknnss. w<, found as it closocl on us, it was nothing
D't imf^nmnt,, which could not in any way have
oiuiangcrod our safety had wc rcnmined whore we
wore. Wo were thus again in difficulties, and literally
boring through loose, sludgy ice; whale lines were
Imd out for warping wherever they could be made
available, and all the other usual means had recourse
o; but ,t was not until midnight, after great labour,
hat we succeeded in reaching the open water. Early
however, on the following morning of the 10th, we
were again closely besot, but in the course of a few
hours, were enabled, by a repetition of the means
before mentioned, to get into clear water again-
warring and boring with canvas set, as the cir-
cumstances of our position demanded. We had at
the same time, the mortification to witness a lane
of water extending from the large piece of ice we
had 80 hastUy abandoned the previous evening far
in a north-east direction, and apparently beyond the
termmation of the land on the eastern side of the
Strait ; but to reach it theti was impossible, as a couple
o miles of ice intervened. It continued moving
about m a most wonderful manner for th(, remainder
ot the day, ,n various detached floes and masses
requiring the utmost vigilance to prevent our being
again beset. °

Although we had for some time before noon, been
standing to the southward, and had been beset and
rendered utterly inactive so often, yet we had been

o 9

228

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

:\i

\l i

for the most part drifting slowly to the northward,
our position at noon having been found by observation
to be in lat. 73° 6' N., long. 117° 10' W.— we had,
however, been some miles further to the north ;
a higher position than was ever subsequently
attained in this Strait. We were thus only thirty-live
miles distant from the northern limit of Banks' Land,
and it was tantalizing to think, after a voyage of
so many thousand miles, and having overcome so many
of the perils of ice navigation, that this short distance
could not be accomplished. The ship was hove to
for the night, as it served no good purpose to keep
under weigh, exhausting the strength of the men,
when there was nothing whatever to be gained by it,
and darkness and loose floating ice, rendered the
navigation no less difficult than dangerous.

Several Ducks, Gulls and Seals were observed,
five of the former were shot ; they were ever
welcome, as they conveyed the pleasing evidence that
winter had not yet set in, although the appearance
of the weather, and the steadily decreasing tem-
perature, tnily told us of its advent.

THE YOUNO ICE.

229

CHAPTER IX.

Young Ice-Its Fomation-Our Position -Barrow's Strait-
Opmions respecting the Existence of a Passage-Drifting in
the Pack -Incidents and Dangers - Equinoctial Gales -
Critical Position of the Ship-Increasing Dangers-Prepara-
bons to meet Casualtie^Aspect of Ice-Pressure-Continue
Uriftmg-Arrangements for abandoning Ship-Assault of the

r~;. , '" *"^ ^*^'"''"°y '^''^'^ away -Abatement of
the Gal^Change of Weather-Temperature-Position-
Colhsions- Approach Princess Royal Islands - Critical
Position -Escape -Conclusions arrived at - Last Day of
Septeniber- Preparations for Wintcnng- Parhelion and
Parasellense- Birds -Early Days of October and Occu-
pation-Ice in Motion -Heavy Pressure - Alteration in
Appearance of Ice-Experiments with Gunpowder in Blast-
ing-Aurora Borealis-Completion of Winter Preparations-
Dady Routine and Exercise-Ice in Motion-Its Aspect-
Reflections — Weather.

Early on the morning of the 17th of September
young ice having formed around us during the pre'
V10U8 night, had, from the etfects of the pressure of
heavy floes, and low temperatui'e become so thick-
ened, that our progress was arrested— the hghfc

. _:. - \ti

wmvt

230

THE NOHTH-WEST PASSAGE.

westerly breeze not being sufficient to propel us
through* it. Towards noon, liowever, we were re-
leased, when an effort >vas made to reach a small
space of open water to th^ aouth-west; we ad-
vanced a littlo towards the attainment of our object
after great exertions, much thwartod by tli'.; rapid
formation of young ice, which soon entirely orrest.od
our progress ; and we isecured the ship to the iieaviost
piece Yithin roa<=h.

The formation rS ycsmg ice is always a serious
obstacle to Arctic navigation. 1 observed that it
first appears in tUo fjrai of minute flocculi, which
gradually become larger, more opaque and globular,
tlien coalesce, but possess for some time their
spherical outUne, until pressure identifies them more
closely with each other, when a thin film becomes
iA)rmed on the surface of the water, imparting to it
an oily appearance, to which the name of " Pancake
ice" bis been given. This becomes broken up by the
sUghtesli contact with heavier ice ; and the fragments
sUding under, or over each other, acquire greater thick-
ness. From frequent repetition of the same process,
and the continuance of low temperature, they soon
acquirs strength and thickness, become united with
others, and form a frozen surface of greater or less
extent, through which a ship cannot pcesibly penetrate,
when thus surrounded. These floes undergo tlse same
liabiUty of being broken up, by the pressure of heavier
masses, the fragments become thrown up, and

ASPECT TO THE NOttTH.

281

cemented to each other forming packed ice, which
'nuy go on increasing, together with the accumula-
tion of snow, for periods of indefinite duration, and
u tiiriately present that terrific, indeed impenetra-
ble barrier to navigation so frequent in those seas.
Wmd IS the great antagonistic agent to the formation
of young ice; but when this is absent, and the tem-
perature faUs, it is surprising to see with what
rapidity congehition takes place.

Our position had not materially altered. On the
18th we drifted a little to the northeast, and the
morning being very clear, at an early hour the ice
mate was sent aloft to report on the relative state of
the ice and land-his field of vision embracing an ex-
tent of, at least, twenty miles. No land could be
seen directly to the northward in the line of the Strait ;
but that on the western side bore away to the north-
west, and that on the opposite side to the north-east.
J. his was, indeed, very gratifying intelligence-the
termination of the land being seen on either side,
and none directly ahead, there could exist no doubt
that Barrow's Strait lay before us.

We were, however, afraid to indulge too confidently
m anticipations respecting the Passage. Some thought
It possible, that the northern limit of Banks' Land
might not have been accurately laid down, even by
such an observer as its great discoverer (the late Sir
Mward Parry) from the deceptive appearance which
the atmosphere might then have presented, and under

232

THE N0RTH-WE8T PASSAGE.

circnmstancos when Iminun judgment is so liable to
orr. Others, unci myself amongst the number, strongly
niaintiiined that the North-West Passage was then
discovered, and that it only remained for us to make
it in the ship.

The pressure of the ice about us rendered it neces-
sjiry to unship the rudder, with little ai)parent pro-
bability of ever using it again ; and we still continued
to be drifted slowly in the desired direction. For
the next few days, nothing of consequence oc-
curred to enliven the aspect of affairs. Wo hoped
for anything that would drive us to the northward, at
whatever risk — even a south-west gale, critical as was
our position, was earnestly desired, as the season of
navigation had from appearances evidently come to a
close — the temperature fell to 4° — and there M^as little
probability of our being again released from the grasp
of the ice. We were slowly drifting alternately north
and south, but the latter preponderated, having lost
seven miles since the 18th— the soundings varied from
50 to 66 fathoms. No water was seen until the 21st,
when the wind having freshened, a narrow lane was
observed extending along that western shore (which
we ought not to have left) to the northward as far as
the eye could reach ; but no effort of ours could then
move the ship. On the 23rd, we had again sighted the
islands (subsequently called Princess Royal) — a strong
pi-oof of our being drifted to the southward, and now
immediately fixed in the pack ; which was so close that

list

DRIPTFNd IN THE PACK.

233

WO were able to walk over its rugged surface. There
WHS marked evidence of some powerful force acting
on it from the northward. It had been recently
split and hove up in several places, as it met with ob-
struction to its progress from the islands to the south.
Our position thus drifting in the pack was an extremely
critical one, and we were unable to avert any calamity
to which we might be exposed. The ship powerfully
strengthened as she was, could but feebly resist the
enormous pressure that might be brought to bear
against her. To guard against any sudden casuality.
It was considered judicious to get twelve months
provisions on deck, to be available in the event
of the ship being nipped, or otherwise seriously
damaged.

A flock of Ducks were seen, and the usual cheer-
less character of the weather was enlivened by a verjr
brilliant sunset. On the 24th, the wind changed
into the north-west, and blowing fresh, became
intensely cold : and the barometer steadUy falling
foretold the approach of the Equinoctial gales.

As the day advanced our position became more
hazardous. StiU drifting with rapidity, we were
carried between the island and the western shore
with every probability of utter destruction to the ship!
In a small indentation of the coast line, a heavy
floe of grounded ice was observed, towards which
we were steadily borne. In the event of our becoming
fixed between this and the one to which we were

234

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

\ ,,

attached, with the same o^'f'r\vhel.nmg pressure set-
ting down from the nrrth^vard, Lhe * Investigator '
must have been inevitably crushed to pieces. Should
we succeed in keeping clear of this floe, we had the
prospect before us of ' eing driven on shore with the
loss of the ship, or of being carried out ," 1 • .ait
fixed as we were in the pack, with all the horrors
and dangers of such a position. Our only hope of
escaping eithe) danger, depended on the probability
that the floe to which we were attached would ground,
and remain intire before we came into contact with
that nearer the shore j or that the Avind would change,
and thereby arrest the progress of the pack that was
steadily setting down.

About 9 A.M., from the continuance of the heavy
pressure, the integrity of the floe to which we were
secured, and on which so much depended, became
seriously threatened. As soon, however, as its most
distant edge encountered resistance, a prolonged,
heavy, grating sound could be heai'd; and next
moment a fissure, in it extending to the ship's
side, presented itself, whica graduall^ opened out a
few feet, and for a time relieved the ship. Our
situation was then, indeed, one of extreuio danger,
and our safety solely depended on the remainiiuj part
of our floe remaining entire. We wfe still drifting
slowly and helplessly towards slu vt when,
through the mercy and goodness of Pi id , about
10 P.M. the broken mass grounded in 10 fathoms

U. i.i .ill

CRITICAL POSITION. 235

water ; our drifting was arrested, and partial safety, as
we thought, secured for a time. So long as the floe
kept mtact, and our cables held, we might be able
to maintain our position.

We were thus helplessly borne along to what ap-
peared our certain, almost immediate destruction ; the
immense sea of ice in motion, carrying our vessel as
it were, m its grasp, with huge masses borne along
tumbhng and toppling over each other as they met
with resistance, or overborne b .ome more powerful
held sweepmg everything before it, and with an
ommous soun. , grinding and crushing against the
sides of our beleaguered ship, causing every timber
to vibrate, as a proof of ds irresistible force. The
pi( aspect was, indeed, appalling .0 the boldest of
us. Evem-^s5 losed in, cold and squaUy, carrying the
snow rlnft .. dense clouds over the barren, desolate
land verf^ approaching, and to which we looked
a souf refb nm ,r a contingency that appeared
inevitable. Aiccr while, the pale light of a waning
moon nartiallv revealed our position, and dispeUed
much of the gJoom upon our minds which the darkness
had created.

UntU midnight, the ice could be both seen and
henrd dnfting to the southward, -etweeu our position
ana the island, as the sou d of ccnflict amongs^ its
masses was borne on the blast, '^nhur.cing our 8 nse
of gratitude for par^ 1 security. Part of f'np pr.vi-
sions, tent equipage, housing, si ns. blankets, c fhing,

286

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

sledges, nre-arms, and such other tilings as were likely
to be useful, had been got on deck, and we were
told off to our respective boats. On the completion
of these arrangements, the laen were ordered below,
to select a change of warm clothing, and a pair of
cloth or snow boots, and were refreshed in the usual
manner, after the great exertion they had previously
undergone. Never did a body of men view their
impending fate with more composure and firmness,
or exert themselves in a greater degree in the per-
formance of their duties ; indeed for as danger or diffi-
culties increased, in an equal degree did their zeal,
cheerfulness and good conduct excite our admiration.
On the morning of the 25th, there was no
alteration in our position from midnight, as the floe
remained steadily aground, but we were, severely
pressed by the ice as it di'iftedpast us daring the
night. Daylight revealed to view an immense field of
heavy floe ice, lying between us and the islands,
extending north and south as far as the eye could
reach ; its surface rugged and unequal from its high,
hummocky character. Some distance to the north-
ward it was rendered wonderfully striking, by the
appearance presented by two lines of lofty hummocks,
extending diagonally for a short distance, very much
resembling land, being dark in colour, with streaks
and patches of snow interspersed over its surface, as
on the neighbouring coast. This was evidently the
great floe whicli had been for days in motion.

RFPKPTS OF PRKSSURE.

237

<lriving us before it— had doubtless come out of
narrow's Strait. The heavy loose ice which it now
^ crumbled up and packed together, was sent against
us with increasing pressure, conveying very unpleasant
evidence of its colossal power, and great antiquity, as
It must have been the growth of centuries. About 5
A.M. owing to this increasing pressure, the ship com-
plained severely, and our proximity to the edge of the
great floe, the distance not exceeding thirty yards, with
heavy ice broken into fragmentary masses intervening,
our great hope of safety still remained in the steadfast
little floe, to which we tenaciously clung, and the
bond of connection was stiU farther cemented by the
strongest ties our resources -could effect. We laid
out a stream chain, one nine inch, two six inch and
two five inch halsers, with anchors attached to each;
more we could not do, and it only remained for us'
to await the result with resignation.

Our soundings, up to noon, remained unaltered,
when they shoaled to 9| fathoms. We had observed a
short time before, that the large floe was setting to
the north-east, diametrically opposite to its former
course, and against the wind, which still blew, with
the force of a gale at the temperature of zero, from the
same quarter; but about 2 p.m. it was again obsened
to pursue a south-easterly course as before, no doubt
from tidal influence, and thas cot tinued for the re-
mainder of the day at the rate of two miles per hour.
Towards evening, its northern end was abreast of the

238

TH'. NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

ship, and the ice packed into lofty mounds rose every-
where about us. The appearance of those ponderous
masses thrown up and piled thus together, forcibly
told us what our fate might be. Our position was
evidently becoming even more critical, as we found
ourselves drifting to the southward, nearing the
shore until we had shoaled our water to eight fathoms,
about 10 P.M., when our progress was fortunately
arrested— the floe having brought up against
grounded ice. Thus closed a day of the same
wild, gloomy character as the preceding, in perfect
keeping with our prospects. Throughout the night
we were again drifted to the southward, and at 5 a.m.
on the 26th, we came in contact with a large floe
piece, which striking the ship on the starboard
quarter, swung her completely round, carried away
one five inch halser, and started all the anchors, six in
number, off the floe.

The crash and heavy grating noise fell on the ear
with anything but an agreeable sound. I was awoke
by the vibration of the timbers, as if the ice n as
coming through them, the great amount of pressure
having come on the quarter close to my cabin. As
may be supposed, I at once proceeded to satisfy myself
of the exact state of affairs on deck ; but happily no
other casualty had occurred. No time was lost in
remedying the disaster, and we were again seciired
to the same floe, with a nine and six inch halser. We
were then drifting with it, a repeUtion of the previous

■V I .

OUR PROSPECTS,

239

precautions therefore became unnecessary, as we had
not the same amount of pressure to resist. Soon after
this occurrence, another large piece of ice struck the
rudder head, which was swung for the sake of security,
about six feet above the water line across the ship's
stern, and carried away the life-buoy. Some idea may
be formed of the stupendous nature of the ice" that
assailed us, from the fact of its striking the rudder
head at such an elevation— a repetition of which was
guarded against by hoisting it still higher.

We continued throughout the day steadily drifting
to the southward. At evening the islands bore
N.N.E. four miles distant, and the wind abating,
the ice opened as the pressure diminished, and
a few narrow lines of water could be seen here
and theie. This tended very materially to ease its
embrace on the ship, and we had got more into
the centre of the Strait, sounding in from 34 to
62 fathoms water. We lose sight of the islands
as darkness set in. The night was a restless and
anxious one to all, from the quantity of heavy ice
which frequently struck the vessel, pressing and
grinding against her trembling side, but fortunately
with no serious consequence.

Towards morning, on the 27th, the wind had faUen
very light, and was succeeded by a calm, when the
islands which we supposed had been seen the evening
before for the last time, were again visible, as we were
then drifting slowly to the north-east. The tide

240

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

having arrested our southerly progress during the
night, was again bearing us in the direction whither
we had come, but towards the opposite side of the
Strait. Still even this change was a subject for con-
gratulation. Several small spaces of open water having
opened around us, aiforded room for the ice masses
coming up from the southward to drift more rapidly,
giinding against us in their course ; that, to which we
were attached, necessarily moving more slowly from
its greater magnitude ; and thus we continued borne
along at the vnercy of the elements. Although the
temperature remainded as low, the cold was not so
severely felt as on the few previous days, owing to
the absence of wind ; but everything wore a most
wintry appearance and the moisture of the atmosphere
rapidly freezing as it fell, gave a coating of snow-white
frost to the yards, rigging, and every part of the
ship. We enjoyed much more quietude than we had
known for some tim,e, from the contuiuance of the
calm. There was not the same imminent danger to be
apprehended, and we were pleased to know that we
were slowl}/ recovering our lost ground to the north.
As night fell, some heavy floes came hito dangerous
proximity under our stern — their progress to the cast-
ward having become arrested in some way or other,
which would render our position critical were they to
close.

A strong south-westerly wind liaving set in early
on the 28th, with snow, had brought ns consider/^bly

PERILOUS POSITION.

241

nearer to the islands, and bore us steadily onward to
the north-east. We were subject to heavy pressure and
severe knocks from time to time, as the floes passed on
their course, wheeling the ship to and fro, wherever a
space of open water existed ; and, when this was absent,
we had to sustain the pressure of the collision. Towards
evening we had approached much too near the islands to
be agreeable, as their stem, precipitous outline frowned
ominously on us ; and apprehensions were entertained
that, if still borne on the same course, we might come
in contact ; but when abreast of them— the ice having
become packed into closer space, with the wind pres-
smg on it from the southward— we, together with our
devoted little floe, were made to describe a circle, and
we were borne along for some distance stern foremost.
The ice forcing a passage for itself to the northward
carried us with it, and removed the imminence of the
danger which threatened us— unless the wind should
change, and again drive us to our original position. We
had thus completed a circle round these remarkable
islands; and it was by no means improbable, from
the helplessness of our situation, that this might be
repeated. Throughout the 29th, we continued to be
drifted steadily to the northward, with a repetition of all
.^.he hazards and incidents, but more slowly than before.
There was every appearance of the pack becoming
stationary; and no one doubted that our winter
must be spent in its grasp, as we considered the Polar
Sea had finally closed against any further attempts at

242

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

navigation this season. Our long-cherished wish of
reaching Barrow's Strait was, therefore, relinquished.

The last day of the eventful month of September
came, and was one of those fine, cold, and clear
Arctic days which we had occasionally experienced.
The temperature fell below zero for the first time;
and we commenced dismantling the ship. The
top-gallant masts were sent down, sails unbent, and
other preparations made for housing in, and resisting
the rigour of the cold then rapidly increasing.

The culm stillness of the atmosphere afforded us a
magnificent " Parhelion" from which a zone of pale
yellow light encircled the heavens, contrasting beau-
tifully with the azure blue and the softened mixed
tints of the sky, that imparted much splendour
to the general effect of this lovely phenomenon —
a source of considerable awe and terror to the very early
navigators of the Polar Sea. A faint Parasellena was
observed the previous evening, but was not remarkable
for its beauty. Nearly the last of the feathery tribe
was also seen — a solitary Ptarmigan wending its way
to the soutli. Several Seals made their appearance
wherever there was a little space of watsr to be found,
and the stillness of the day wni frequently interrupted
by the hoarse croaking o! >< couple of Ravens which
kept flying ominously about us — the sound faUing
mournfully on the ear.

Nothing of unusual interest or excitement occurred
for the few first days of October j the ice was still

HEAVY PRESSURE SUSTAINED. 243

moving a little, pressure occasionally experienced, and
the wind, and general character of the weather alter-
nating from time to time. As the ice was not suf-
ficient y firm to admit of our going for any distance
from the ship, a few of us (the officers) occupied
ourselves in excavating one of the large hummocks of
ice on our devoted floe, to perpetrate our grateful
remembrance of mutual attachment, I can give no
better idea of its heavy character than by stating
that this mass was 10 feet high, and 20 feet long of
an eUiptical form. In it a beautiful grotto was
termed, its mterior presenting an appearance of ex-
treme beauty, from its ultramarine, semi-transparent
structure. Narrow channels of water were occasion-
ally seen, and the distant sound of ice in motion was
at times, distinctly audible. On the morning of the'
4th, heavy pressure came again on the ship, which
contmued with more or less force throughout the day.
At 8 P.M., all being still and sUent about the
ship, we had again evidence of its being in motion ;
but the suddenness and force of the movement
were fai- different. The whole mass of ice to the north-
ward of our position appeared as if under the influ-
ence of some wonderful convulsion of nature, as it
canae with alarming force against the ship's side,
making her timbers most sensibly complain. All
hands were speedily or, deck, without requiring the
c^n of the boatswain , ma chey were afforded ocular
demonstration of the perilous situation in which we

R 2

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

were again placed, and the danger there existed of
being momentarily nipped, as the ice bore down
heavily and steadily on us, and pressed us against the
floe which had hitherto borne us in safety thro:rgh
such an adventurous course. While it resisted, the
ship was ele^^ated nearly two feet out of water,
inclining abou'; fifteen degrees to that side from
which the pressure came. Had she not risen
in this way, she would to a certainty have been
nipped. This ceased to be probable from her altered
position, but had the force continued, it must have
throvm ^her broac.'side on the ice — fortunately it
ceased within the space of fifteen minutes from its
commencement. It was wonderful to view the heavy
masses as they were J^hrown up in large fragmentaiy
pieces, piled on each ovher, so as to overtop the taffrail,
and touch the quaiter boats suspended from the
davits ; and direful was the sound to which we
listened, enveloped as we then were by the darkness of
night. Some of us had knapsacks ready for a start, as
it lay not in our po'ver to do aught that could avert
the danger ; and al. hands stood breathless on deck,
until it again became suddenly silent. The great
alteration in the appearance of the ice around us,
from its crushed and broken up state, left sufficient
evidence of the tremendous power to which we were
only for a short time exposed, and so mercifully res-
cued. We remained, however, in an anxious uncom-
fortable state throughout the night, not knowing the

ICE BLASTING.

245

moment when our safety, and that of our old ship
might not be again as suddenly imperilled We
dared not go to rest, but merely lay down with our
clothes on, and knapsacks under our heads, ready to
start on the first sound of aJarm. During the middle
watch, we had a repetition of the pressure, but less
heavy than before; the creaking and grinding against
he ship still told us of its being in motion ; it had
the effect, however, by assailing the ship from the
opposite side of placing her again nearly upright. On
he morning of the 5th, we found we had been carried
to the southward, and had approached nearer the
islands, and the eastern shore-a lane of water had
also appeared in the direction of the former, in which
a few seals were sporting.

Several experiment. %cn made to test the power
and efficacy of gunpowder in blasti,- ice, under the
immediate direction of Mr. WynniaU, ru.utc), who
had been instructed in its use prior ^o^our leaving
England, and under whose superintoii 'e. re all our
subsequent operations with this powerl.:! agent were
successfully and zealously conducted. The agency
of gunpowder in blasting ice having been hitherto
unknown, and untried in ice navigation, much interest
was consequently attached to the few experiments we
then made on a small scale. These were attended
with success, and afforded us the pleasing evidence of
the powerful auxiliary we had at command for future
operations.

246

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

As we considered it by no means improbable from
our position in the centre of the pack, that the ship
might sooner or later be thrown on the floe from the
pressure to which she was subject, it was resolved to
give her as smooth a bed as possible; accordingly
several small hummocks, alongside, were speedily and
successfully removed by blasting. The pressure still
continuing from time to time, several large pieces of
ice got under the ship's stern, which elevated it
considerably, throwing her over also on her port side.
Numerous rents and fissures were everywhere dis-
cernible — evidence of the power still at work.

In the evening we were favom-ed with a most
brilliant Aurora Borealis, extending from west to
east, and to the southward of our position. Its broad
and irregular undulating streaks of golden yellow
light, splendid and evanescent as they were — at one
moment, subtilely flitting to and fro with electric
rapidity at another, forming huge masses of electric
light, from which streams appeared as if falling to the
earth in a shower — most beautifully illuminated the
heavens, and cast a brightness over the trackless
wastes of ice and snow that surrounded us. As
the weather was at this time generally cold and calm,
the sunset was for the most part very beautiful. The
prismatic tints of his reflected brilliance, difiused in
a line of softened and subdued splendour on the
western horizon, imparted an appearance of extreme
loveliness to a scene, which darkness overshadowed

DAILY ROUTINE.

247

too soon. Subsequently we ^rere compensated by a
grand display of the beauties of the Aurora.

Throughout the entire of the 6th, we were subject
to a repetition of the same pressure, and were kept in
the same degree of painful suspense, from the
continued movements of the pack, influenced as they
were by the effects of wind and tide, which still
bore us to and fro; but we were evidently shortening
the distance between us and the islands.

On the 7th, all the work preparatory to housing in
having been completed, the routine of labour and
exercise for the ship's company throughout the winter
was commenced. The former wds of a very light nature
and merely consisted of what pertained to the internal
economy of the ship ; the latter ensured to each man,
at least, six hours exercise out of the twenty-four, in
the open air— a system which was attended 4h
admirable effects, and contributed largely to the
maintenance of health, kept the mind in a state of
buoyancy and cheerful excitement, and enabled us
successfully to resist the depressing influence of an
Arctic winter.

Early on the morning of the 8th, a huge mass
struck the ship on the quarter, and swung her
round, leaving a space between her and the floe of
about four feet ; but before an anchor could be laid out
and hove on, to bring her into the former position
the ice that was blocked about her stem and under
the keel, at once, rose to the surface, and occupied the

«i

248

Till* :JORTU-WKt;r PASSAGE.

vacant space, which, together witli the rapidity ot" the
freezing, prevented us frotii regaining our position.
There was, at the same time, a gencrul movement in
the pack; this commenced with a low runihhng
noiso, rcsombhng the distant roar of the sea, until it
reached the s\n\x, wlicn wo were ama/iMl at soehig
imniense masses slowly and gradually raised to dif-
ferent degrees of elevation, others crumbled to pieces,
or j)acked on each other, and the same force slowly
but surely approaching ourselves. Our astonishment
rapidly changed into intense anxiety for our own
safety.

On the 9th, there was no material difference in our
position — the motion having apparently ceased with
the cessation of the spr' i a; tides ; and we enjoyed a day
of comparative con i fort. The weather continued
beautifully clear and Sin nio, with an occasional light
air from the west war;! ; the temperature generally
varying from five to six degrees below zero ; which
promised well for a joiurney contemplated, next day, to
the neighbouring land.

.Ji

sill

# ^

^i.

KXCIIRBiON TO .. K LANU.

24i

CHAPTER X.

.pearance of Wcather-Dcparturc from the Shij,— Journey
ocroHs the Ice- " ach Prince Alhert's Und-Takc formal
possession of it i Queen's Name-Ascend the Mountain

—Incidents— A,. pearauce of Land and Ice— Our View from
its Summit— Existence of a North-West Passage established-
Descent— Refreshment— Journey across the Ice arrested—
Critical Position— A Night's Adventure— Incidents— Arrival
of Relief— Return on Board— Hal kett's Boats— Itesults of
the Day— Celebration of taking possession of Prince Albert's
Land— Ship stationary and Position — Preparations for a
Journey to the Northward— Visit Princess Royal Islands and
take possession— Appearance of Ice grounded— Geological
Character of Islands.

The morning of the 10th of October wns ushered in
with scarcely a breath of air, and with the temperature
10° below zero ; nevertheless, there was a mildness in
the atmosphere, a stiUness and serenity all around—
the marked peculiarities of a fine Arctic day— which
tended to impart a degree of grandeur to the stern face
nature here presents, and which, under less favourable
circumstances is ever wild and dreary. It was then

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250

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

quite a calm ; but the barometer having fallen a little,
and a low, dark line at the same time forming on the
southern horizon, led us to believe that the wind
might soon be expected from that quarter.

Under these circumstances, and the ice not having

been observed in motion for the previous forty-eight

hours, at 8.30 a.m. Captain M-'Clure, Lieutenant

Cresswell and myself, accompanied by the interpreter

and four men, started from the ship, some of us

carrying guns, others boarding pikes ; the ftien with

the apparatus for cooking their dinner, pick-axe, shovel,

flagstaff, &c.— all necessary implements for the service

we were going on. We shaped a direct course for the

eastern shore opposite to the ship, where the land

appeared more elevated and rugged, than the gradually

sloping hills on either side, and from which the ascent

of the mountain might be commenced in nearly

a straight Une. Our course lay over hummocky

and packed ice, with occasional intervening fields

formed within the few previous hours, flat and even

as a board, with here and there marginal lines or

boundaries of a few inches high— the effects of

pressure from without, cracking the young floe,

and throwing up these little boundaries ; thus dividing

it into distinct patches or fields. The appearance

presented by the little tufts of hoar frost strewn over

the surface, was very beautiful ; some crystallized in the

form of spicula, and others larger, of a stellated form,

closely resembling small feathers, from their well-

CROSSING THE ICE.

251

marked pennated structure. Far surpassing all in
brUliancy and splendour, was their power of decom-
posing the solar ray, and presenting the most
nch and gorgeous display of the prismatic coloura
that I have ever beheld; forming a carpet, as it were
studded with gems of the first wat«r, whose dazzling
bnlliancy was absolutely exhausting to the vision.

Our progress was arrested by a stream of young
ice, which obliged us to make a little diltour to the
northward ; our pikes proving of much service in
testing its power of bearing; and thus we pioneered
the way, untU within about one mile of the shore.
Here we discovered that the field on which we were
walking was in rapid motion, and passed along the in
shore grounded floe, in such close contact as to throw
up some heavy pieces, packing them together. As
it was our object to get on the grounded floe, and so
on to the shore, feeling satisfied that the motion was
entirely owing to the tides, I approached the edge
of some young ice to test its capability of bearing us
with my pike, when it gave way under me, and I fell,
but was quickly picked up by some of our party,'
with only partial immersion. A little further on we'
found it stronger, and after the exercise of some
adroitness and activity in our movements, managed to
clamber up the sides of the inshore floe, when the ice
was still in process of packing. It afforded us no
very steady footing, but ultimately we succeeded in
passmg this formidable outwork to the shore, on

252

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

which it had been forced up to the base of the cliffs
we were approaching, from the effects of the late
movements in the pack. We computed the distance
from the ship to be about five miles. This part of the
coast presented a bolder appearance than elsewhere ;
Its almost vertical escarpment was interrupted in
several places by deep gorges, and up the pre-
cipitous side of one we ascended ; the looseness of its •
sandy soil enabUng us to do so with comparative ease.
On attaining the summit of this cUff, about 150 feet
high, we assembled our little party and took formal
possession of the land in the name of our most
gracious Sovereign j bestowed on it that of her amiable
Consort— planted the ensign of St. George, and, with
three hearty cheers, completed the ceremony by
drinking health and long life to our beloved Queen
and His Royal Highness Prince Albert.

We then prepared to ascend the high land, leaving
the four men to erect a mound and land mark, and
prepare their dinner during our absence. The
general aspect partook of the usual undulating,
hillocky character, with the aame unvarying sterUity
and barrenness. Ranges of Hh rose above each
other, intersected throughout by deep gorges and
ravines ; the soil sandy, its surface covered with stones
and shingle, with a few blades of withered grass
scattered here and there, wherever a little sand had
accumulated ; but never was Nature more sparing
of her gifts, than appeared in this scanty herbage.

ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN. 353

The ascent was gradual, in the ravines, through which
«^e passed ; snow had accu™,dated in gm,t quantity,
.nto wh,ch we sunk deeply, rendering it flguing

Srrfr,'^'""''" extncate Le.ves' l,!l
When .had become consolidated and frozen else-
"here, the walking was pleasant. Wo steadUy con-
.nued our advance until the summit was attained,
about 1 P.„., and having been for so long a time
without any excise, (except what the ship afforded)
wefett rather tired on reaching the top,'after t2
weansome joumey. We then found ourselves
above the range of vision iW>,. telow, the g™„„d flat

and the height from the sea level not less than 1,500
teet. The land, as far as we could observe, was of
the same uneven, hiUy character, wi* n-merous lakes
mtei^persed about the base of the i. , f , ^„eral
features, and open character of the count/w^
P^aa^ng, f h a term can be applied to^aT
lands They appeared to be seen then to greater
advantage, with their partial snowy garb, than when
the^nakedness of the land should be exposed by its

Our view to the northward, however, was rather
more cheer,„g_„„twithstanding the deceptive appeal
anee ever caused by distance in Arctic r!gi„L '^^
the atmosphere is highly refractive, and wh J ice
and land a., often so intimately blended togetheMh"
" '^ "f'^" ■"Po^^i'-l^ '0 distinguish one from the

254

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

other. We could clearly trace the tennination of the
western land, or that of Banks', to a headland or
cape of considerable elevation, while that on the
eastern side trended away to the north-east, with a
clear, undoubted field of packed ice, intervening —
continuous .with the Strait of Prince of Wales, in which
the ship then was. Everything, therefore, was fully
confirmatorjr of the opinions previously formed, and no
doubt could remain as to the existence of a Passage.
From the simimit of that hill, I felt convinced we
were looking on the ice-packed Strait of Barrow,
that the highway to England from ocean to ocean lay
before us, and that we had incontrovertibly established
the existence of a " noeth-west passage."

As the temperature did not admit of our remaining
long at rest, we commenced the descent, delighted
beyond measure at the result of our observations;
and, as the luncheon carried in an outside pocket had
become so hard frozen that we could not eat it, there was
no unnecessary delay. The descent was much less
fatiguing, and more rapidly performed than the ascent,
and we had occasional evidence that the land was
not destitute of animal life, barren as it was in vege-
table, from the numerous tracks of Foxes, Hares, Rein-
deer, Ptarmigan. A small orifice in the snow, indi-
cated the burrow of the pretty little Lemming (Mus
Hudsonius) in those inhospitable wilds, and in a deep
gorge close to the beach a zigzag bearpath was ob-
served.

OUR RETURN.

265

At 3 P.M. we rejoined the men who received with
satisfaction, equal to our own, the result of our visit;
they had completed the erection of the mound in the
centre of v^hich a pole was placed, supported by guys,
for a andmark. We hastily refreshed ourselves
with a little water made from melted snow ; the men
were unable to cook their dinner, for on opening the
tin of preserved meat, it was so hard and frozen, that
It could not be pierced with a boarding pike, and
they had not spirits sufficient to thaw it; they were
consequently much in the same position aa ourselves.
At 3.30, havmg taken a hasty survey of the state of the
ice, and no water being discernible, we commenced
retracing our path. We reached the beach, crossed
the floe for about a mile, with the usual amount of
difticulty, anxious to reach the termination of this
outwork, and tread once more those level fields of ice
we had passed over with so much pleasure in the
morning. But, what was our consternation, on reach-
ing the outline of this packed barrier, to behold our
lurther progress towards the ship arrested by a channel
of open water, about twenty yards broad, rapidly in-
creasing, and extending along the floe as far as we
could see. Our first idea was to detach a piece of ice
sufficiently large to enable us to paddle across one or
more at a time; but in this we faUed, as the only
piece we could obtain was quite unfitted for that pur-
pose. ^

We looked to the north, but found that nothing

256

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

could be done in that quarter. To the southward
matters appeared more favourable; the channel had
assumed a tortuous course, conveying to us the idea of
its having become narrower, and perhaps closing with
the floe might enable us to efiect a passage. We
accordingly wended our way to the southward, as
near to the water's edge as we could go, over heavily-
packed, rugged ice— our eyes eagerly directed to the
line of this fatiguing march— and the frequency of our
falls from time to time by no means adding to our
comfort. We then advanced for the space of a couple
of mDes, and found the appearance presented by the ice,
from where we had first viewed it, utterly deceptive ;
the lane of water grew wider as we advanced, there
was no more propitious aspect in its state further
to the southward, and we had then got abreast of
the islands. We accordingly halted on a large elevated
piece of ice. Previous to approaching it, we had
crossed the recent track of a bear, and expected to
encounter him at every turn of our progress, but were
disappointed. We assembled in a body on the top of
this floe, endeavouring to attract attention from the
ship, then some five or six miles distant, and fired
several rounds of musketry in the hope of the flash
being seen — it was then becoming rather dark, and
our situation far from enviable. ^^The sun had dis-
appeared, the clouds looked dark and lowering, a
breeze was gradually springing up from the south,
our clothing was light, we had no provisions, nor the

AN ADVENTURE.

257

Slightest covenng to protect us against a temperature
ot 15 below zero, much fatigued and exhausted from
our long march and want of food ; and, under these
circumstances, there existed every probability of our
passmg the night on the ice. Having about a gUl of
spirits of wine left, and as thirst was urgent amongst
all, we melted a little ice, and were each afforded a
mouthful of water, which proved extremely refreshing.
As the cold had become severely felt, from the lightness
ot our clothing, we could not remain at rest more than
a few minutes at a time, owing to the rapid abstrac
tion of animal heat, and were consequently obliged
to keep m constant motion. We then concluded that
m the probabUity of our departure from the shore
having been observed from the ship, and as we did
«ot get on board at the time, when we might be ex-
pected, m the event of a party being sent out to our
relief, they would doubtless be sent towards that point
of land where we had been last seen, and v' ,re the
land mark was erected. We, therefore, retraced our
steps over the rugged, slippeiy course, which it had
cost us so much labour to cross but a short time
before. It had then become quite dark, and as we
were unable to distinguish the unevenness and irregu-
larities of the ice over which we walked, or rather
clambered we werd^falling incessantly. We appeared
to have lost due power over the limbs, from the
effects of cold and exhaustion-the alteration in
the ice, and our intense thirst, affording ample

258

THE NORTH-WRST PARSAOK.

«i -?i

ovidenco of both. We had advanced about a inilo,
our eyes anxiously directed towards the ship, when
wo halted to firo our guns, in the hope of receiv-
ing some token of observation ; but in vuin. Again
wo started— a light was seen hoisted at tho mast-
head of the ship, but this was notliing more than
what might have been expected to point out her
position, and did not allow us to hope for any imme-
diate succour. With tho increasing darkness, the
appearance of tho weather had become more dreary
and wilder than before— thus cold, hungry, and thirsty,
without covering, there was increasing probability of
our spending the night on the floe, and as our small
stock of amnuuiition was well nigh exhausted, the
chances of our being able to attract a party to our
position were likewise diminishing. Rockets were
seen fired from the ship, and a gun at intervals ; but
like the light at the mast-head, they afforded us no
other comfort than the knowledge of its being done
to direct our homeward course.

Once more we halted, *nnd fired a few shots, with-
out receiving any recognition, and again pursued our
way over the rugged and slippery hummocks, in search
of a large piece of ice with a good depth of snow
around it, under the shelter of which we might pass
the night. We had given up hd^e of receiving any
reUef, or of being found by a searching party from tKe
ship until the morning; and having fired our last
charge of ammunition, our entire strength for attack or

ARRIVAL OF RELIEF.

259

defence, if wc mot with Bears, whicli we knew were
prowling about, lay in boarding-pikes.

Wo were then in search of our resting place, when
to the inexpressible delight of all, we saw the flash'
and heard the report of a musket, apparently coming
m our direction. We immediately halted, raised
loud cheer, repeated it again and again, and on the
third occasion, to our great joy, it was responded
to. By cheering frequently, we directed the party
towards us, and had the pleasure of knowing that
rehef was at hand, as we presently saw dark figures on
the opposite side of the channel, coming along its
margin towards us, and soon communicated by words
with Mr. Court, Second Master, and a party of four
men across the water.

UnhappUy they had come unprovided with aught
that could give us relief, although they had been
dispatched from the ship at six o'clock, to render
assistance, lest any casualty had befaUen us. Our situa-
tion, therefore, was not much improved, as they did
not consider that - * er had arrested our progress, and
the only relief tney could afford us, was that of
their individual prowess, which, under the cir-
cumstances, was quite unavailable. This officer was
directed to return to the ship immediately with his
party, and rejoin ifs with all despatch, with one of
Halkett's portable boats, aU the men that could be
spared from the ship, and a supply of provisions for
immediate use. He was, likewise, directed to fire a

s 2

260

TIIK NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

blue light and rocket on reaching the ship, and two
of eacli whoii lio left on his return to us.

We then ft'lt satisfied that wo should reach the ship
about daylight, arul our friends having left us after eight
o'clock, we calculated on their return, at least, at mid-
night. Our spirits rose with a s[)eedy prospect of
relief, and we again put ourselves in motion to resist
the intensity of the cold ; several of us having already
been frost-bitten. We had no food except a little
frozen preserved meat— so hard, that nothing could
penetrate it— and on attempting to eat it in this state,
the mucous membrane of the mouth was excoriated
on touching it. The thirst being intense, wo expe-
rienced the greatest relief from a mouthful of water.
As a last n^Pourco, with the aid of a few matches, the
wick that had been immersed in the spirits of wine,
and some pieces of paper, we contrived to melt as
much ice in our little kettle, as aflforded to each of us
nearly a wine glassful of water — which proved a great
luxury, although a little brackish. We were once more
in motion, clambering over the rough slippery ice to pro-
mote warmth and kill time ; with falls heavy and fre-
quent, as it was impossible to see our way clearly in the
darkness. Time thus wore on, while we still wandered
about, occasionally taking a few minutes' rest, with an
irresistible desire to sleep, until the cold compelled
us to be again in motion. About 10 p.m. a light
coidd be seen approaching us from the opposite side
of the water, and soon afterwards the signals we had

8TATR OF OUR PARTY.

261

(lir(!ctc(l to bo made on tlio return of the party, were
firod ill succession from the sliip. It appcired to us
uicredible timt they couhl, by any imssibility, have
reached tlio ship, and returned in so short a space of
time; but that it was them, the response to 6ur
cheer, the sound of voices, and their presence soon
afterwards on the margin of the ice, fully verified.
Their early return was thus accounted for: at
7 P.M., an hour after the departure of the -first party
from the ship, two others had been dispatched in
search of us, respectively under charge of Messrs.
Wynniatt and Sainsbury (mates). Each had one of
Halkett's boats, and were provided with blue lights and
rockets, that they might be able to maintain commu-
nication by preconcerted signals, having proceeded in
opposite directions. It fortunately happened that the
party returning to the ship, fell in with that of Mr.
Sainsbury, and informed them of our situation ; the
latter returned at once to the ship for provisions,
giving the former, Halkett's boat, to hasten tj
our assistance, at the same time signalizing to Mr.
Wynniatt's party to close, which they speedily did.
We then stood on the margin of the ice, almost help-
less from the effects of cold, fatigue, and hunger,
anxiously awaiting the arrival of the boat, which
Messrs Wynniatt and Court dexterously paddled
across to our relief. They were heartly welcomed, but
we found that they were unprovided with cither food
•or water. No time was lost in ferrying us across two

262

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

at a time, and as the young ice was forming rapidly,
we had to break it with our pikes to make a channel
for the boats. We proceeded in the direction of
the ship, as rapidly as our exhausted state would
allow, the march harassing to a degree, from our
constant falling and tumbling about like drunken
men ; whom we resembled not only in gait, but like-
wise in speech. We had not proceeded far, when a
signal was m-de from the ship, that relief was at
hand, and when about half way, we had the extreme
satisfaction of meeting with the Commissariat, under
charge of Mr. Paine, (Paymaster), with an abundant
supply of provisions, &c.

We came to a halt, threw ourselves on the ice,
hastily partook of some food, and a draught of
water, the first thing called for; this, by constant
agitation, and by being nearly in contact with the
skin, was maintained in the fluid state, and with
some stimulants, greatly revived us. We again pro-
ceeded onwards. Some of my companions were
scattered over the floe, which the relieving party
went in search of. We found in the last part of our
journey, the great benefit we had derived from the
small quantity of food we had eat, and at an improved
pace reached the ship at 2.30. a.m. heartily grateful
for our deliverance from our critical position. The
relieving party did not arrive until later— one or two
of the men having become quite exhausted, could not
proceed without assistance. Thus terminated a-

rapidly,
channel
ction of
e would
'om our
irunken
tut like-
when a
was at
extreme
t, under
)undant

the ice,
ight of
onstant
ith the
d with
lin pro-
8 were
party
' of our
om the
iproved
grateful
. The
or two
lid not
ited a •

HALKETTS BOATS.

263

memorable and eventful day. We had been eighteen
hours absent from the ship— wal!:ing, I may say, the
entire time. The distance exceeded thirty miles, which
in consideration of the nature of the ground, was
more trying than double the distance over level
country ; and what with the intense coW of the night,
no tents, inadequate clothing, and entire want of food,
had we not been happily rescued, there was but too
much reason to fear, that morning would have fur-
nished a serious Hst " casualties.

I cannot close this recital of the events of the day,
without expressing the high opinion we entertained
of the boats constructed with so much talent and
ingenuity by Lieutenant Halkett, Royal Navy. I know
nothing better or more portable for lake or river navi-
gation ; and to them we were entirely indebted for our
safety, as ordinary boats could not have been conveyed
across the ice, without sustaining such damage in
hasty transit as would have rendered them useless.
They are very light and portable, made of India
rubber cloth inflated with air ; the larger one capable of
holduig four persons, three comfortably, weighs only
forty-six pounds ; the smaller intended for only two
persons, is of course ligliter. Either could, in my
opinion, be made equally available in conveying sick
or wounded men when properly slung ; and could not
fail to prove a most useful adtlition to the equipment of
travelling or exploring parties. They might, I think,
be still further improved if made in compartments ;

264

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

for in the event of being injured, the danger of the
air escaping, would thereby be obviated— particularly
when exposed to such a substance as the sharp spicula
of ice. When the men had arrived on board, an
extra allowance of provisions and spirits was issued to
each, and I need not say how we enjoyed the supper
that was prepared for us. The name of 'Mount
Adventure' was appropriately bestowed on the high
land we had ascended.

The foUowing morning found us much refreshed
by sleep, a few additions were made to the sick list,
from some of the relieving parties, but they complained
of nothing of a serious nature. Our party were well; we
had all, however, been more or less frost-bitten on face,
feet and fingers ; but were not incapacitated from duty
—the day was entirely given up to rest.

On the evening of Saturday the 12th, we celebrated
the taking possession of Prince Albert's Land, by
issuing an extra allowance of provisions and spirits to
the men, to drink the health of the Queen and His
Royal Highness; and the crew assembled on the
lower deck, amused themselves for the remainder of
the evening. Events such as these tend to
maintain men in good health and high spirits from
the cheerful excitement they afford. At this time,
we experienced a severe loss in our preserved meat ;
nearly five hundred pounds of which was considered
unfit for use. The weather had been variable for
some days, for the most part cold, cloudy and over-

PROJECTED JOUKNEY.

265

cast, and the ship apparently had moved but little ; on
the 14th, she was quite stationary, when we found our
position to be in lat. 72° 47' N., long. 117° 35' W.,
which were our Winter Quarters, and about two and
a half miles to the northward of the Princess Royal
Island. The temperature on this day had undergone
a wonderful and sudden change, having risen to 24°
with the prevalence of a north easterly wind; from'
which we concluded that there was still a large
expanse of open water to the northward. This change
we knew would only be temporary. Although no
doubt could possibly be entertained as to the
existence of a passage, nevertheless. Captain M-'Clure
resolved on visiting the extreme of either land, before
the great fact should be officially recorded, and
the darkness of an Arctic winter should finally set in.
The men having been selected and approved of by
me, they were told off for this service, and the
necessary preparations for the journey to the north-
ward commenced. Several excursions were made to
the islands, on one of which a hare and ptarmigan
were shot, and numerous fox tracks seen ; every
trace of animal life being eagerly looked for and
watched in these regions.

On the 17th, Captain M^'Clure and myself made an
excursion to the northward, with a view of tracing
out the best course for the travelling party ; and the
result of our observations was highly favourable as
to the state of the ice for travelling. The day having

266

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

been beautifully clea; and serene, enabled us to see a
great distance ; these cold, clear days ever imparting
an appearance of stillness, loveliness, and increased
solitude to these icy regions.

The weather on the 18th of October, although
cloudy, indicating a fall of snow, was otherwise suffi-
ciently fine to induce us to visit and take possession
of the islands which formed such a prominent feature
in our landscape. Accordingly at 9 a.m. Captain
M^'CIure, Mr. Court, myself, with the interpreter,
and two men left the ship. Our way lay over heavily
packed floe ice, with a few fields of that of recent forma-
tion. As we reached the extremity of the northern or
lesser island, it was perfectly appalling to witness the
magnitude of the ice gromided on it. The shattered
appearance of these vast and broken masses conveyed
to us a frightful idea of that colossal power which
had left such destructive evidence of its action. We
reached the larger island, and ascended to its summit,
which is about 500 feet high, when we took formal
possession in the name of the Queen, bestowing on
the group that of Her Royal Highness, the Princess
Royal. We had a cairn built around, and, with three
cheers, planting a red ensign, we left it floating proudly
in the breeze, We had then completed taking posses-
sion of all the lands we had discovered, and now form
an integral part of the British Empire.

In our ascent to the top of this island, we found
traces of its having been visited by Esquimaux at u

PRINCESS ROYAL ISLANDS.

267

former period, although we could discover no wood
nor any remains of their hunting implements— the
formation of a rude cairn, in the centre of which was
some loose earth, and a few well bleached fox and
seal bones, left no doubt of its having been one of
their store-houses. At the same time we observed, in
close proximity, one of their ingenuously constructed
fox-traps, entirely composed of stones, placed together
in two lines, closed at the top and one end, with a
small aperture at the other, sufficient to admit a fox,
or other small animal ; the bait is suspended in the
centre, and on the animal reaching and seizing it, the
trap is so constructed that a heavy stone falls on it,
which ensures its capture, if not death. These re-
mains had every appearance of antiquity, and we
assumed that the Esquimaux had made this a tem-
porary halting place in their passage through the
Strait at some remote period.

The smaller and more northerly one, is of very
limited extent ; being in length about 500 or 600 yards,
m breadth 50 yards, its average height about 100 feet,
inclining at an angle of about 45 degrees to the
eastern shore of the Strait. On close examination it
appears formed in irregular steps or ledges, as though, '
as may be readily imagined, from a large mass of
matter in a soft state, slowly but steadily upheaved .
from the bed of the ocean, and partially falling away
while emerging from the surface of the water. The
greatest elevation is attained in the centre, where its

268

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

western aspect is for a short distance vertical; on
either side of which, it incHnes at a very abrupt angle
to the westward, about 16°, so as to convey the idea,
(with the exception of the space I have mentioned)
of its being on the principle of an irregular double
inchned plane. This little island is rich in fossQ
remains, chiefly Corallines, {Encrinites and Pentacri.
nates) • the upper surface is composed of small stones .
and pebbles, with coralline ledges closely cemented to
each other ; and the rock beneath, which is composed of
granulated, bituminous limestone, emitted an ofien-
sive odour when struck or fractured, and in some
situations was plentifully studded with garnets. Numer-
ous uni- and bivalve fossils, chiefly species of Cyatho-
pyllum, Turbo, Bucdnum, Orthis, and Terebratida were
likewise strewn on the surface, presenting good spe-
cimens of calcareous petrifaction.

The second or larger island is situated about half a
mile to the southward of the preceding, extending nearly
due north and south for the extent of a mile, with
a mean breadth of about 600 yards. It is elevated in
the centre about 500 feet, from which it gradually
decreases, but presenting throughout, except for a
small space on its western^ aspect where it is sloping,
a bold and precipitous front, varying in elevation from
80 to 400 feet. The soil, (if such it can be called)
is entirely composed of a sandy scoriaceous admixture
of small stones and pebbles, with numerous volcanic
boulders, embracing granite, gneiss, syenite, green-

THEIR GEOLOGICAL CHAKACTER.

269

stone, fragments of basalt, &c., strewn over the sur-
face—a few scanty tufts of withered moss attest the
extent of its fertility during the short season of
vegetation.

The southern portion of the island, appears to
be one mass of fossiliferous remains of Zoophytes,
Corallines, and a few uni- and bivalve shells, similar to
those before mentioned. These fossils were found
imbedded in dark, bituminous clay or shale, of
remarkable hardness in some places, but brittle in
others, when there existed a ferruginous admixture
of brown Hematite, of which the southern portion
of the island is entirely composed. On advancing
to the northward and towards the centre of the island,
the fossils became less numerous and soon disappeared,
a dark laminated clay, of a dry compressed sooty like
structure takes their place. Although there was here no
distinct coal formation, yet on fracturing some pieces,
a narrow carbonaceous line, with the coal lustre, could
be discerned, such as it presents in a half burnt state,
and this was more marked as the land became more
elevated, of course displaying to view a deeper
stratum of the earth's crust. The remainder of the
outline of this island for a portion of its western,
and almost the entire of its eastern aspect, is composed
of limo and iron stone, rising vertically, and containing
a few fossils, extensively coated with depositions of
sulphur and iron in combination, and emitting an
offensive odour when fractured. The geological

270

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

character of these islands from the specimens obtained,
is, therefore, associated witli the Carboniferous era of
the earth's formation.

Nothing of any consequence occurred for the next
few days ; and we were gradually becoming initiated
into the usual winter's routine. The weather had
maintained a pretty favourable character, such as
pertains to a closing season ; and on the evening of
Sunday the 20th, all the traveUing preparations were
completed for the journey to the northward.

DKVARTURE OF THE TRAVELLERS.

271

CHAPTER XI.

Departure of the Travelling Party— Passage over Rough Ice-
Fatigue Party— Their Route and Return— Accident to Sledge
—Despatch a Sledge and Party— A Shooting Party— Five
Musk Oxen killed— Measures adopted— Animals brought on
Board — Quantity of Meat obtained — Return of Captain
M«Clure— Confirmation of the previous Discovery of the
North-West Passage— View from Mount Observation— Parry
and Richardson — Points Peel and Russell — Homeward
Journey— A Night on the Ice— Reception of the Party-
Difficulties and Hardships of the Journey— Food consumed
— Pemmican and Oatmeal— Housing in — Ventilation and
Warmmg Ship— Early Days of November— Occupations of
the Men — Departure of the Sun- Aspect of Winter —
Weather— December-A Fox Hunt— The Solstice-Christ-
mas— A Seal— Weather— Last Day of the Year.

On the morning of the 21st of October, aU was
bustle and excitement on board the ' Investigator ' ;
Captain M^CIm-e having determined to start on his
projected journey to the outlet of the Strait, to verify
the fact of our previous discovery. The day did not
present a very auspicious appearance, being dull,

272

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAOB.

cloudy, and ovcrcnst, with a light breeze from the south-
east, and the temperature 4° below zero. As this was the
first travelling party that had left the ship, it excited
a great degree of interest amongst us. At an early
hour the sledge with provisions and other requisites for
seven men for fourteen days was packed in readiness,
but as the state of the ice did not admit of its safe
transit for a distance of a couple of miles from the
ship, the entire strength of the ship's company was
employed for carrying the articles separately over this
space. Accordingly at 7 a.m. all hands were assem-
bled on the ice, and on the word of command, started
towards the north-east ; having previously given the
travellers three cheers, which was heartily responded
to — a custom always followed on the departure or
arrival of travellers in the Arctic regions. The party,
about fifty in number, each carrying some articles of
the equipment, presented a strange and novel appear-
ance as they wended their way over the ice, following
the course pointed out by the pioneers, until the
rough ice was safely crossed at 8 a.m., when we
halted and repacked the sledge. The fatigue party
consisting of eight men, with Mr. Wynniatt and
myself, then put themselves in harness and advanced ;
the remainder of the crew greeting us with three
cheers, retraced their steps to the ship. Our course
for the space of ati hour lay over a fine level space of
young floe, parallel to and distant about three miles
from the eastern shore, after which we came on some

RETURN OF FATK.UE lAllTV.

273

very heavy packed ice, which wo could not attempt
to pass, but kept away along its edge for the re-
mauKler of the journey. When about fifteen miles
distant from the ship, it was not considered prudent
that we should proceed further ; a heavy snow drift
commg on, difficulty might be experienced in again
findn.g the ship, and being without a tent or other
covering, we were obliged to return.

Captain M'^Clure, (who was accompanied by Mr.
Court for the purpose of taking observations), and a
party of five men, having previously refreshed them-
selves with a little water and biscuit, then took
charge of the sledge — our little band speeding
them on their way with three hearty cheers, which
they as heartily returned and proceeded on their
journey. There was a strange and pleasurable feeling
of excitement in this scene— one small group of
men cheering on another proceeding upon an enter-
prising and hazardous service, enveloped, as we
then were in a cloud of snow-drift. We turned from
each other, and were soon lost to view, but gladly
would any one of us have participated in their labour
Jiad it been so decreed. Our party requiring some
refreshment after their long march, we found that the
delay of a few minutes produced such intense cold,
with a sharp cutting breeze against us, that we were
unable to halt, and were accordingly obliged to eat
as we kept moving, each of us having been provided
with a day's provisions. We followed the westward

27i

TOE N0WH-WE8T PASSAGE.

route, and, ubout 5 a.m., having crossed the recent
tracks ol 'overal bears and foxes, reached the ship in
safety. About tw< hours after our return, we were
all much astonished by the arrival of Mr. Court, and
one of the party ; from whom we learned that soon
after they had left us they met with rough and
heavily packed ice, which damaged the sledge. It was
repaired; but subsequently became so broken, tliat
they were rendered incapable of making any further
advance, and encamped but a short distance from
where we had parted with them. Messengers were
at once dispatched to the ship with the intelligence,
and orders to rejoin the party on the following morn-
ing with another sledge, and an additional man ; as
five were found insufficient for the work. The occur-
rence of the accident was a source of great regret, as
it caused the delay of one day ; very valuable at that
season of the year.

Early on the following morning, the 22nd, they
again started with a new sledge, accompanied by a
fatigue party, in charge of Mr. Wynniatt, to rejoin
Captain M^'Clure. I much regretted that a slight
accident which I met with on the previous day's
journey, prevented me from accompanyi. ^' thom. They
were provided on this occasion with u (ciu, a day's
provisions, and other necessaries, in the probable event
of their being unable to return to the ship that evening.
As night closed in with a fresh breeze and snow drift,
'''i"' ^s wgre hoisted and rockets fired at intervals to

If MX OXEN KILLED.

275

guide the traveller, f o the ship ; but they did not make
their appearance until the following day townrds noon.
They informed us, that tiiey reached the Captain's
party the previous day about 2 p.m., that, having ex-
changed sledges and repaired the broken one, the
former proceeded on their journey, and they retraced
their steps. In consequence of the heavy snow-drift
which had set in, they found their way considerably
impeded, and ultimately lost the sledge-track of the
morning. As the ship was not visible, and co Ud not
be reached without risk, the certainty of much ^abour
and probability of casualties, they encamped .m the
in-shore ice for the night, which they passed as om-
fortably as circumstances would admit, and text
morning had the pleasure of seeing the ' Investigator '
distant only about four miles. They returned on boa. d,
having suffered only a few frost-bites.

No occurrence of interest took place for the next
few days ; a party of men were employed in erecting
a large cairn as a landmark on the summit of the
larger of the Princess RoyaHslands. I occupied
myself for some days in examining and removing
from these islands, specimens of their formation, and I
can affirm that geologizing at a temperature from 15
to 20 degrees below zero, is not the most agreeable
occupation.

On the 29th, some of our officers went on an ex-
cursion to Prince Albert's Land, where they fortunately
met with a herd of five musk oxen. These animals

T 2

276

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

l\i

were proceeding south^vard, and the party having got
them in a sort of dell, or ravine, took up a judicious
position, and after a considerable expenditure of ammu-
nition all fell but one— the leader of the herd, who
had taken the post of honour in front, and received no
less than seven balls before he dropped. This was,
indeed, no less an unexpected than fortunate occur-
rence, and much too valuable a prize to be left on the
land during the night, a prey to the tender mercies of
any hungry animals that might be prowUng about. It
was accordingly determined that two of the party, Mr,
Sainsbury, and the ice-mate, (both of whom had been
frost-bitten, the latter very severely), should return to
the ship with the intelligence, while the others, (Mr.
Paine, the interpreter, and a marine), remained to
guard their prize. As driftwood was abundant, they
kindled a fire in a sheltered situation.
• On receipt of the intelligence, Lieutenant Cresswell
and Mr. Piers, (Assistant Sugeon), with three men, a
sledge, tent, and provisions, were dispatched to the
travellers on shore, to enable them to pass the night,
as best they could in that dreary locaHty.

Early on the 30th, therefore, two fatigue parties in
charge of the Boatswain and Carpenter, were dis-
patched to the bivoiuic, with additional sledges to
assist in the removal of the animals ; these we were
all extremely anxious to see, as we had heard so
much about them.

The morning being cloudy, and overcast with much

THE MUSK OXKN.

277

snow-drift, the land was quite shut out from view,
and the non-appearance of the party after noon was a
source of considerable anxiety. Two men were
ordered to proceed towards the shore ; but not to lose
sight of the ship— they were provided with muskets
to fire at intervals, in order to attract attention,
fortunately, however, the snow-drift having cleared
away as the wind fell light, we were enabled to
observe a dark speck at a considerable distance,
wending its way through the rough ice, which left no
doubt of the approach of the party. They soon ar-
rived with three of the animals ; one of the sledges
having broken down with the remaining two was left
on the ice, but was brought in afterwards.

The larger of the oxen we estimated at about six
cwt. ; from his apparent antiquity, he was leader of
the herd. The graphic account given by the sports-
men of the position assumed by the dam and sire in
front for the protection of the others, when brought
to bay, was very interesting, and afforded strong
proof of their affectionate instinct.

They consisted of three bulls, a cow, and a calf,
and afforded us an aggregate weight of 1,269 lbs. of
excellent meat, which proved a most welcome addition
to our stock of provisions, coming as it did so op-
portunely at the commencement of winter.

As the weather was daily becoming colder, we were
anxiously looking out for the return of the jjarty from
the northward, burned blue lights, and threw up

278

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE

rockets nightly, to point out our position. On the
morning of the 31st, about 8 o'clock we were astonished
by the arrival of Captain M'=Clure, unaccompanied
by any of his party. He had separated from them
the previous e\ oning, some ten or twelve miles distant
from the ship, with a view of getting on board before
them, to announce their approach, and send out
assistance, as they had suffered much on the journey ;
but darkness and snow-drift coming on, he lost his
way, and with nothing but his travelling clothing on,
withstood the rigour of the night.

Although no doubt could be entertained as to the
existence of the Passage, from our previous observa-
tions, yet we hailed with great gladness, cheir entire
confirmation on the return of Captain M'^Clure. As
no official announcement of it had been previously
made, the present was considered a fit opportunity for
doing so, and in these simple words our great Dis-
covery was recorded in the ship's log.

" October 31st, the Captain returned at 8.30. a.m.,
and at 11.30. a.m., the remainder of the party
having, upon the 2Gth instant, ascertained that the
waters we are now in communicate with those of
Barrow Strait, the north-eastern limit being in latitude
73° 31', N. longitude 114° 39', W. thus establishing
the existence of a Nortii-West Passage between the
Atlantic ana Pacific Oceans."

Thus was established the greatest Maritime Dis-
covery of the age, which for three centuries had

IS INCONTROVERTIBLY ESTABLISHED.

279

baffled the skill, enterprize, and energy of the
civilized world. It had been under the guidance and
mercy of Providence, achieved by us, when in
search of the expedition, that was lost in making the
attempt to discover it. We could not therefore but
experience an indescribable feeling of pride and plea-
sure, in knowing that through our single-handed
efforts, additional lustre had thus been added to the
hitherto auspicious reign of our most Gracious Sove-
reign, while the maritime greatness and glory of our
country were still further elevated above all the nations
of the earth ; the solution of this great enigma leaving
nothing undone to confirm Great Britain's Queen-
Empress of the Sea.

On the evening of the 22nd, the exploring party
advanced some three or four miles, after which they
made daily about seventeen miles in a north-east
course ; this, making allowance for ice travelling could
not be estimated at less than twenty miles, and thus
they had advanced seventy-six miles. The general
character of the ice was not materially different from
that seen on the first day's journey ; the young floes
were nu!nerous, of great extent, and afforded every
ground for hope, that the ' Investigator' would pass
through the Strait in safety, in the following year.

On the 26th, the travellers encamped on the extre-
mity of a low point, the north-eastern termination of
Banks' Land, from which arose high land, corres-
ponding with the line laid down on the chart, as

■ .f

2S0

TlIK NORTH -\VK8T PA8SA0K.

scon hy Sir K. Parry. 'Vhvy asrciulod to its «muiiiit,
estimated ut 000 fort hi-li. This uflordod tluM.i u
{•omiuaiulin{j: vic-w of tluit expansive iee waste, known
as Harrow Strait, but subseciiKditly named Parry
Sound, enahlinfr them to sec the hohl outline of the
land on whieii they stood, trendin^^ away to t!ie north-
west, and that of tlu' opposite shore to the north-east,
witli no land interv(>ninj,' between their position and
Melville Island, the loom of which they saw.
Stupendous iloes ami heavily packed ico alone
cx'eui)ied that sea, which Parry had successfully
navigated thirty years l)efore. Thus fully verifying
wl>at we had observed from the top of Mount
Adventure, on the 10th of October-conclusive and
actual proof now lay before tliem.

I may hei^' jjause to pay a tribute of my admiration
to the memory of the late Sir l^ldwtud Parry, the
great and distinguished Pioneer of Arctic Discovery,
who, although not the fortunate discoverer of
. that Passage he had so long and nobly sought for,
It was through his undaunted perseverance, for-
titude, energy and judgment exhibited in the great
and extensive discoveries made by the successive
expeditions under his conunand, that we were
t>nabled to establish its existence. With our jjrevious
knowledge of the relative disposition of land and
iee principally as regards Melville Island and lianks'
Land, to the north, and Wollaston and Victoria
, Lands to the s{)uth, did wv, follow the course,

MOUNT OUHKRVATION.

281

with n (lr{2;roo of ooiifidciifo we could not otlicr-
mm Imvo cxix'riotincd, tliut led to our discovery.
Ii(! it was, also, who iirst wiiitoicd with ships in the
Arctic rcjrions, mid tlu! udininihic and no less original
system of routine then adopted, with such excellent
rcsidts, has l)e(!n followed by nil sul)se(|uent expe-
ditions with but little improvement. Nor in con-
nection with this subject cim 1 pass over the nanu5
of thttt able, intrepid travelh^r, and distinguished
])hilo8()pher, Sir John Kichardson ; who as the dia-
coverer of Wollaston and Victoria Lands, the intinuite
friend and associate of the heroic Franklin in his
earlier expeditions, had materially contributed to
our success ; for it was in the hope of reaching the
form(!r laml that we stood to the eastward on first
discovering Jiaring Islaml, which ultinuitely led us
into the Strait of rHncc of Wales. Sunsly then their
names, no less from imority than great services, claim
a first place in the page of Arctic History.

The hill where our travellers stood, and whence
their observations were nuide, was npproi)riately named
'Mount Observation,' from the extensive view it
ftfForded; and the expansion of the Strait at its
t(!rmination was called 'Investigator Soimd,' that
the name of our ship might be perpetuated in those
icy seas, she had hitherto navigated in safety. The
points which flanked its entrance were respectively
honoured with the names of Lord John Russell, and

2S3

THK NORTIl-WEHT I'AHHAdK.

!S I

tlio Into Sir llol)(!rt Peel,* niul are destined to retimin
in perpetual opposition to eiieli other.

On Sunday tlio 27th, oiir intrepid party eoninieneed
their homeward journey, previously erecting ti cairn
on tho site of their bivouac, in the centre of which
was deposited a scroll containing an account of tho
tliscovery, the ship's name, position, &c. to guide, if
possible, any travellers that might come along tho
coast, to a depot of safety and succour. In tho
evening they encamped in the same position they had
occupied on the previous I'riday night j after which
they took tho former sledge track for their guide, and
on Tuesday morning fomid themselves only forty-six
miles distant from the ship, which they expected to
reach the following night.

Accordingly on Wednesday the 30th, about 2 p.m.
when about ten miles distant. Captain M'Clure left
them in the hope of reaching the ship to announce
their coming, and have prepared for them the first
hot meal they would have eaten since their departure.
Darkness, however, soon set in with a breeze and
snow-drift, and unable to reach the ship, he continued
wandering over the ice, suffering from fatigue aiul
hunger for the remainder of the niglit. At one time
he became so exhausted by cold and falling on the

* We were not then aware, nor ^:)r some years subsequently,
of the death of this lamented and distinguished statesman.

AftlllVAL OF THE TRAViaLKllH.

288

rough ice, that ho niiidc a snow bed uiulor the Ice of
u large huinnioek, wlierc lialf shniping and waking ho
remained until the atniosphenj hecairie clearer and
disj)hiycd a star, which he immediately took as a
guide and put himself once more in motion. When
daylight came, ho ascertained that he was to the
south of the islatuls on the western shore about four
miles from the ship ; towards which, faint and weury,
he wendod his way. The party advanced, until, from'
similar causes, finding they could not with any degree
of certainty make out the position of the ship, they
encamped about seven miles from us, arul burned
several blue lights, which from the distance and the
presence of snow-drift, could not be seen by us ; but
on the arrival of the Captain, a fatigue party under
Mr. Wynniatt was at onco dispatched to their
assistance. At 11.30 we all assembled on the ice,
and with three hearty cheers followed by warm
congratulations, we welcomed their return.

The circumstances under which this journey was
performed were such as well tested the energy, physical
powers and capability of endurance of those engaged
in it in an extreme degree. Travelling in the Arctic
regions at such an advanced period of the year, was pre-
yiously unknown. It became, however, a matter of vital
importance in consideration of the critical position in
which we were placed, and in furtherance of the
object of the expedition, that our exact situation should
be ascertained previous to the ice breaking up in the

284

THK NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

^T I

coming season, tlmt our spring campaign nnglit be
undertaken in accordance with the nature of oar
position. The low altitude of the sun, causing a
daily decrease in temperature, with only about eight
hours' daylight, was calculated to increase the difficul-
ties of ice travelling to a degree the experienced only
can imagine.

The travellers generally commenced their journey
at 7.30, having previously taken what was denominated
breakfast — a little cocoa mixed with tej)id water, (the
fuel, spirits of wine, not being sufficient to boil it).
At 1 P.M. they halted, when they took their grog, and
about 5.30 encamped. Then came a difficulty, from
the fact of the buffalo robes, blanket sleeping bags,
and tarpaulin, being so hard and frozen that on pitch-
ing the tent they could not be spread, and thawing
could be produced only by the entire party laying
on, and imparting to them that warmth from their
bodies, which they could so badly spare ; thus, after
passing a few hours in this way, their only pro-
tection from the rigour of the cold could be made
available. Sleep was disturbed, and rendered but
little refreshing, by the cold produced by their half
frozen garments, at a temperature varying from seven
to fifteen degrees below zero. The small consumption
of food during the journey was quite wonderful ; it
amounted only to eighteen pounds of pemmican,
thirty-one pounds of biscuit, and eight pounds of
oatmeal ; the period of travelling was nine days three

I our

ing a

ciirlit

INCIDENTS OF ICE TRAVELLING. 285

hours, and instead of there being a decrease of weight
from this consumption, the contents of the sledge
actually weighed one hundrel pounds more than when
they started, from the accumulation of ice on the
blankets, tents, coverings, &c., caused by the vapour
emanating from their bodies, being rapidly converted
into frost, and deposited on everything around The
want of water was most severely felt, as melting the ice
generally entailed loss of time ; and the quantity of
fuel taken proving much too small; the water was
consequently Hmited; but all united in saying that
any sacrifice would willingly have been made for the
smallest quantity, when thirst was so intense. To the
want, therefore, of this luxury may be attributed the
inability of the travellers to eat, as thirst was always
an accompaniment and early sign of the exhaustion
ever present after their day of laborious exertion.

The pemmican* was not relished from their being
obliged to eat it cold, which incrensed the thirst.

* The pemmican prepared for Sir J. Richardson's expedition
was made at the Clarence VictualHng Yard, as follows : the meat
from which the fat and membraneous parts were pared away,
and cut in pieces, is dried on a malt-kiln over a slow fire until its
moisture was entirely dissipated, and the fibre of the meat
became friable ; it was then ground in a malt-mill, when it
resembled finely-grated meat ; being next mixed with nearly an
equal weight of melted beef suet or lard, the preparation of plain
pemmican was comphte.— Richardson's Boat Voyage. In the
north, reindeer and buffalo flesh is substituted for beef, and mixed
with a third of its weight of ht.—Jut/ior.

286

THE NORTII-WES PASSAGE.

1 1

It was consequently but spnrely eaten— not, how-
ever, from any dislike to this food. Previous to
their starting, I rceoniniendcd that oatmeal should be
taken, and given to the men with a little water when
thirsty; this I had elsewhere seen practised with
good effects, and though but v i indifferent substitute
for pemmican, it was not only taken in the water but
in the cocoa. It was found to support strength, in
addition to which it was much relished, and aft(>rwards
highly spoken of as an article of diet on such service.
Their privations almost entirely arose from the quantity
of fuel being inadequate to their wants. They had
all lost considerably in flesh, and were more or less
frost-bitten, but no other casualties occurred. Al-
though the result of this journey had been anticipated,
we hailed it with the greatest sat.saiction, and the
perseverance, energy and zeal with which it was
performed, must ever redound to the credit of Captain
M'Clure and all engaged in it. •

On the 1st of November, the thickness of young
ice was found to be twenty inches: preparations
were made for finally closing in for the winter, the
temperature between decks at night having fallen
to 7°— the hatches were closed and the usual
housing placed over the ship. A bed of snow about
sixteen inches deep was laid on the upper deck, over
which a macadamized covering of sand and gravel
was spread, and an embankment of snow about eight
feet was built around the ship ; both of which con-

VRNTILATFON.

287

tributed largely to maintain warmth in the interior.
Ventilation was the next subject which required our
attention, and wo adopted the principle, I believe,
first proposed and acted on by the late Captain Owen
Stanley, when Lieutenant of H.M.S. ♦ Terror,' in a
former expedition ; for simplicity and efficacy it is
deserving great praise, as nothing better could be
adopted with the resources at our command. It
consisted of copper tubes from ten to sixteen inches
in diameter, passing through the deck, from the top
of which canvas funnels were attached, and conducted
through the housing cloth to the open air, to the
height of about fifteen feet. These promoted a good
draught and the free escape of the foul air generated
below, as was evidenced in the dense volume of
vapour which ever issued from their tops. By this
means and from the fact of the men having been
kept off the lower deck for so many houra of the day,
the air between decks was rendered much more
salubrious and conducive to health and comfort, than
it would otherwise have been ; notwithstanding our
best efforts, it was humid and impure, from the
rapidity with which the vapour that could not escape
was condensed by the coldness of the deck. But
on this principle of ventilation, should ships be
prepared for wintering in the Arctic Regions; it
admits, however, of very considerable improvement,
and would have been rendered much more perfect
with a larger allowance of coals, and an additional

288

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

stove on the lower deck, which would not only prevent
in a grcat degree the condensation of vapour and
consequent humidity of atmosphere, but facilitate the
escape of impure air, and contribute to the general
warmth, dryness and salubrity of the ship.

Fires were about this time lighted, which included
Sylvester's stove for the general warmth of the ship,
a small stove in the Sick Bay, in whicli seven pounds
of coids were daily consumed ; one in the offi ers' mess-
room, where from eight to twelve pounds of coals
were burned, (the latter only in the depth of winter),
and one in the captain's cabin, for which sixteen
pounds were daily issued — in addition to which there
was the galley fire, or the lower deck for cooking
throughout the day. From this it will be seen, our fires
could not have been of a very extravagant character,
and the value of fuel in the Arctic Regions may be
duly estimated.

A school was, at the same time, established for the
instruction of the men in reading, writing, and
arithmetic, each evening on the lower deck, which
was well attended, and proved an agreeable source of
occupation to many.

For the few first days in November, we were
variously employed — a road was formed to the Princess
Royal Islands by levelling the ice, and marked with
poles, as guides ; the cairn was completed, and on the
6th, when making my last visit to them with a sledge
party, for the purpose of removing the geological

DliPARTORE OP THE SUN. 289

8pcci,.,cns collected, we were on our return caught in
a snow-storm with a heavy g»Ie from the south-west,
winch obhterate,! any trace to guide our return, and
Shu the slnp out from view. Guns, however, were
fired at mtervals, to direct us towards her, some alarm
hav„,g heen felt at our absence. The increasing
.ntens.ty of the cold rendered ns ahnost incapable
of faemg the high wind; and the consequence
was, that the repeated exposure of the hands to
restore animation to the face, caused the former to
become also frost-bitten. My right -hand was so
severely b.tten, and the mischief spread with so much
rapidity that on reaching the ship, it was a stiff, frozen
mass I had not the slightest ability to bend it, and
on plunging it into a bason of cold water, a thin film
of ice formed on the surface. I lost the use of it for
a period of two months, and was, for a time, appro-
hensive of its safety.

On the llth of November, the Sun took his de-
par ture-the day was beautifully clear and serine, one
of he ew fine days we had lately had, as the
weather had been, for the most part, vciy tempestuous.
There was scarcely a breath of wind, and the tem-
perature had fallen to 2«» below zero. When the last
ghmpse of the sun was revealed to us as he reached his
mendian he displayed in gorgeous splendour on the
margin o the southem horizon, a segment of his upper
I-mb, and as if to add greater effect to this, his lit
appearance in these cU-eai-y solitudes, his rays were

290

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

most truthfully reflected on the western sky, from
whence, shcclding their prismatic tints on the land
beneath, he imparted an appearance of rare beauty to
the scene, where stillness and solitude alone prevailed.
Thus commenced the long Polar night of dreariness
and gloom.

Everything at this time wore a truly wintry aspect ;
snow had fallen in considerable quantities, and nothing
but a uniform white surface met the eye wherever it
wandered. The ship was completely embedded
in it, and rijjpeared as if she could never move
again. A death-like stillness reigned around, which it
was delightful to hear interrupted by the sound of a
voice or the tread of a footstep, on the frozen surface
of the snow. The slightest incident was gladly
seized on as a subject of conversation and comment ;
and thankful did we feel for the agreeable excitement
afforded by the occasional visit of a Raven,* the cap-
ture of a Fox, the pale bright light of the moon, with
occasional paraseDenac, the brilliant splendour of the
Aurora, the constant presence of stars, or the meteoric
flash of aerolites.

It was surprising with what readiness men accom-

^ * We were visited almost daily by two Ravens, which crossed
the Strait from west to east, and returned again in a few hours,
but before the close of winter one only was observed ; and early
n the spring, when visiting the Western Land, found the wing-
feathers of our missing friend, which had, no doubt, become the
prey of a Fox.

rcanness

WINTER OCCUPATION. 291

modated themselves to a mode of life, strange and
novel to the majority of them, and how readily they
urned every event to good account. It is on such
orvice, that fertUity of resource is ever advan-
togeous-a fertility that great author of invention-
Necessity, never fails to bringinto play. It was reaUy
astonishmg to witness the number of tradesmen that
were to be seen at night, on our lower deck, all
aetively engaged at their respective pursuits ; tailors,
bootmakers, and knitters: a great variety of needlework
everythmg. in fact, that a needle is capable of doing
was, at least, attempted; and it was no less laudabk
than strange to observe the progress which ingenuity
and mdustry enabled them to make, and the degree
of perfection which they ultimately attained, as they
were, I may say, aU self-taught. Nor was reading
and unprovement of the mind generally forgotten; fS
wh.le thus engaged at work in groups, they generally
had the best scholar (as he was termed,) engaged
readmg to them aloud. Thus were the evenings
passed-the day being occupied in exercise, and the
light duties they were occasionally called on to
perform.

We had happUy entered on the winter in good
health and spirits, and prepared to await with patience
until daylight should again return, and the season of
active operations should commence. The weather
throughout the entire of November was for the most
part boisterous. Northerly winds prevailed, and the

H|pm

292

THB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

temperature ranged from zero to 32° above it ; showing
a mean for the month of — 10° 2', that of the lower-deck
48° F. and height of marine barometer 29.739 in.

December was ushered in with a north-w esterly gale,
and heavy snow-drift ; the thickness of the ice had in-
creased 10^ inches, being found to be 2 ft. 6^ inches.
No incidents of consequence occurred to render it in
any degree more marked, if I except the capture of a
few foxes in our traps, which aflForded us the rare,
exciting sport of a hunt, after a fashion of our own.
The little captive was " unearthed" from its trap on a
large neighbouring floe, where we formed a circle
some 200 or 300 yards in diameter, to prevent its
escape, when pursued by a little Esquimaux Dog we
had brought from the coast of North America, and
which we had, for the occasion, raised to the dignity
of a foxhound. The chase invariably proved amusing,
and never failed to afford us a pleasing degree of
excitement, as long as the cold enabled us to remain
spectators ; but, indeed, nothing fails to prove ex-
citing to men under such circumstances, trifling as it
may be.

The winter solstice, at length, came — an important
epoch in our calendar, as we were aware from this
period, that the sun was again on his way towards
us, and that one half of the season of darkness had
then been passed.

The advent of Christmas was cheerfully welcomed.
Our best efforts were bestowed to make it pass with

CHRISTMAS DAY.

293

as much hilarity as circumstances, and our own re-
sources, could admit of. Our larders were ransacked
tor the choicest dainties; and, amongst the rarities
produced, were beef six months old, which had been
nearly aU that period frozen, and a sirloin of musk
ox, which would have ornamented any table in a more
temperate dime. Many an anxious, longing thought
was bestowed on our far distant homes ; many a
prayer was breathed and hope expressed that if
spared to see another Christmas, and freed from the
perils of our position in the pack, it might be spent
far without the limit of the Arctic circle. Thus
passed our first Christryas iu the ice, which we had
so sangumely hoped would be our last ; but how Httle
did we then foresee what the future had in store for
us !

On the 28th, we were favoured wiih a hasty visit
from a Seal, which made his appearance in the fire-
hole*— doubtless glad of the opportunity it afforded
him of freely inhaling the air. These animals have
the power of keeping open throughout the winter a
small orifice in the ice for respiratory purposes, over
which an Esquimaux wiU frequently sit for hours in
the hope of capturing them.

The weather throughout the entire of this gloomy

* This is a small space of water about two feet square, kept
open throughout the winter by removing the young ice as it
torms every hour, so as to ensure a supply of water in the event
or fire.

294

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

December difiFered but little from the previous month ;
but the cold was considerably greater, having ranged
from 3° to 39° below zero, with a mean of —23° 36',
that of the lower deck 48° 4', and the force of wind
2.48.

The last days of this eventful year closed on us,
presenting a picture of wildness it is difficult to
conceive. A heavy, north-westerly gale and dense
snow-drift confined us to the ship ; and thankful were
we for such comfortable shelter from the pitiless blast
that swept over us — to which we could not for an
instant expose ourselves with safety.

THE NEW YEAR.

295

CHAPTER XII.

The First Day of 1851-Our Health and Efficiency-Inspection
of Crew— Thickness of Ice-Reindeer seen and pursued—
Temperature of the Month— Return of the Raven— Re-appear-
ance of the Sun-A Wolf and Incidents-Effects of Sun's Rays
on Ice— First Spring Operations— A Fox— A Hare killed—
A Bear seen and Pursuit— Visit to the Western Land-
Baring Island and Incidents— Appearance of Land— Removal
of Snow Embankment— Temperature of the Month— Survey
of Provisions-Sudden rise of Temperature-Preparations for
Travelling— Despatch of Searching Parties-Their Direction
-Importance of Visiting Melville Island- Captain Austin's
Expedition-Pursuit of a Bear-Snow Bunting— A Seal
killed- Report of Game on the Land — Return of Mr.
Wynniatt and his subsequent departure— Shooting Parties—
An Incident of Sport— Success in the Chase— A Bear shot-
Incidents and Events.

The year 1851 was ushered in with a continuance
of the gale with which the preceding one had closed. It
raged with unabated fury, heightened by heavy squalls,
at intervals, dense snow-drift, and all the concomitants
of a northerly gale ; these, with the prevailing gloom-
and darkness, made the prospect more than sufficiently
dismal. It was on such occasions we were forcibly
reminded of the probable condition of those of

296

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAOE.

whom we were in searcli, and how vain mnst be all
human powers of cnduriince, opposed to the rigour of
the elements — such as we had experienced for tlie few
previous days — fiom which we scarcely found suffi-
cient protection in the best appliances of art. V/e
could only hope a better fate had befallen them
than our fears led us to predict. The year, in other
respects, dawned on us auspiciously. We were in
good health and spirits, with only one or two men
on the sick list, and otherwise in a state of efficiency
highly gratifying.

From this period, I adopted the custom of inspecting
the ship's company on the first day of every month,
to ascertain the first appearance of scurvy, or the
existence of other causes of disease ; that early pre-
cautionary means might be had recourse to, to maintain
our general efficiency. From the admirable results
which attended this practice, I would strongly re-
recommend it to be regiUarly carried out in all ships
employed on similar service ; as it enables the Medical
Officer not only to combat disease with more success
at its onset, but affords the positive evidence of the
actual state of health of every man on board.

We had on this day a repetition of the hilarities of
Christmas, and indulged in such delicacies as I am sure
our friends at home could not have imagined, as having
been witliin our reach in these inhospitable regions.

We found the ice had increased thirteen inches and
a half in the course of the month, affording a mean

heindekr seen.

297

tliickness of three feet eight inches. On the 3rd, the
gale abated, having left a bank of snow drift accu-
mulated about the ship to the depth of thirteen feet •
and we were delighted to be released from the con'
finement caused by its continuance. On the Gth one
of our men, (John Ames,) the sick bay attendant, in
the course of his perambulations over the ice saw
three Reindeer about a mile and a half from the' ship
apparently coming from the Western shore. Dark'
iiess enabled him to approach within twenty yards
but on seomg him, they trotted off in the direction
of the Prmcess Royal Islands. No less astonished
than affrighted at what he had observed, he hurried
on board to inform me, and brought with him
iinmistakeable proof of his truth. The intelligence
^vas most cheering to us all, as it verified the
opmion we had previously entertained that these
nmmals were never absent from either shore during
the wmter. This was rendered more remarkable''
no records existing of Deer having been seen in
corresponding latitudes at this season of the year as
It was generally believed, that they migrated to 'the
southward on the approach of winter; which this and
subsequent experience enabled us to reiute An
early dmner off venison was predicted; and arms and
ammumt^on underwent a complete overhauhng for the
remamder of the evening.

The morning of the 7th was dark and cloudy, with
snow falhng. It was determined to follow the track

298

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

of the Deer as well as darkness would allow. Ac-
accordingly, Captain M'Clure and myself left the ship
at 9.30 A.M., there being a gleam of light suflBcient to
enable us to see our way, with a temperature of 30°
below zero ; and we proceeded in the direction of the
islands. After innumerable falls while clambering over
rough ice, we reached the locality, but failed to discover
any trace of the Deer, they probably having gone to
the opposite side of the Strait. However, as no
doubt existed of their having been here — their tracks
being still visible on the floe ice — it raised hopes
amongst us of early sport in the coming season.
We had some difficulty in regaining the ship, her
dark outline being shut out from view ; and were
afforded ample evidence that the season was not yet
sufficiently advanced to make lengthened excursions.
The sight of a solitary Ptarmigan, however, recom-
pensed us for the journey, and enabled us to return
with some agreeable intelligence.

Towards the middle of January there was a per-
ceptible increase in the amount of hght at noon, and
the stars appeared less brilUant, which indicated
the approach of the sun. Each successive day ap-
peared a counterpart of the preceding, having the
same daily system of routine. More frequent excur-
sions were made to the islands, since the appearance
of the Deer, in the hope of meeting them; and
trifling as the incidents were which- attended these
journeys, they compensated us in some degree for our

WEATHER AND TEMPERATURE. 299

want of sport, by the agreeable excitement which
attended their occurrence or narration. On the 12th
Mercury froze in the thermometer for the first time'
the temperature having fallen to 45° below zero or
7/° below freezing point of Fahrenheit, and two days
subsequently to 83°, but it did not exercise the same
mfluence on our spirits, which were still buoyantly
nsmg with an advancing season. The beautiful pale
light of the moon, with a» occasional halo and para-
sellenae, and in her absence, the Aurora Borealis, tended
to disperse some of the gloom of winter. The latter
was not so brilliant as we had seen it at an earlier
period of the season, in October and November— pro-
bably from there being less moisture in the atmosphere
On the 30th we were gladdened by the reappearance
of our Raven, which for some days had been absent, and
we feared that he might have shared the fate of his
mate, who had ceased to visit us for a considerable
time. I cannot describe the degree of interest with
which we watched for this daily visitor, and his return
was regarded as an important event.

January weU maintained its character as a cold
winter month ; the latter part was intensely so. Frost-
bites were frequent and severe, on the slightest impru-
dent exposure, which entailed the necessity of covering
the face ; and frequent high winds, rendered us at times
quite unable to leave the shelter of the housing. The
daily average for the month was 32° 50' below zero-
nearly 10° lower than that of the preceding mouth.

300

TIIK NORTII-WKST PASSAGE.

Towards noon, on tlie 3rd of February, the appear-
ance of a rich golden tinted sky, forcing its way
through a dense bank of haze, which hung over the
sununit of the western hills, at once assured us of
the proximity of the sun ; and at noon our hearts
were gladdened by his presence, as he lighted up the
dreary regions that had been eighty-three days in
darkness. It was delightfully exhilarating to ob-
serve the reflection of his rays as they found their
way through the chance openings of our housing;
and equally so, to observe our own shadows on
the snow covered waste around us. We hailed his
return as an important epoch, hoping never again to lose
him for so long a period ; and congratulated ourselves
that the darkness of an Arctic winter had nearly
passed. Tlie ice was found to have increased 13^
inches during the month.

On the 7th, some of our men, who had gone to the
islands, were on their return followed by a Wolf,
the first that had been seen ; they thought from
his audacity in approaching within twenty yards,
that his intentions were not honourable ; so, having
no fire-arms, they ran, and the wolf ran; when
they stood a little to watch him, he stood— and in
this Way they at length reached the ship in a state
of great consternation, still followed by the Wolf. This
was, indeed, glorious news, so we sallied out with
guns and boarding pikes, either for pursuit or attack ;
but we fjiiled, by the non-exercise of proper strategic

A WOLF.

301

skill, as he made a hasty retreat. Such a visitor, how-
ever, was not to be so easily disposed of, and we re-
"lamed anxiously watching for his return. In the
nieantmic our little Esquimaux dog. having found her
way out on the ice, enticed the wolf from beneath a
neigiibouring hununock where he L.y concealed He
came up in the most playful manner, and like one of
her own species caressed and played with her for
some time; at last both started oft' together, and we
gave our favourite little pet up for lost. She, however
again made her appearance, followed by the Wolf
close to the ship. We then made a line fast round her
neck, and again sent her out, that in the event of
danger we might haul her on board. This had the
desired effect of bringing forth the Wolf, but we
never could get him in a sufficiently good position for
a shot. He remained about the ship for the next few
days J eluding, however, all our best efforts to get a
shot at him-yet it was an event which afforded us
much pleasurable excitement.

As the sun increased his altitude, " Parhelia" were
frequent and more beautiful than at any other period
of the year. It was quite delightfiU to see the effect
of light and shade once more, as his rays fell on the
pinnacled and rugged surface of the pack. We could
not but contrast the cheerfulness imparted by his
presence on the dreary ice waste, with its aspect
during the period of his absence. But he shines a
long time before his effect becomes manifest on such ice

S02

THE NORTII-WifiST PASSAOE.

in such a temperature ; indeed I have frequently had
one side of my face partially warmed by his rays
when the opposite was frost-bitten, and required
constant friction to restore its vitality. The first
visit was paid to the eastern shore on the 24th,
unattended by any incident ; and from this time our
exeurpions to it were frequent, having several hours
daylight. The cold of this month much exceeded
what we had previously experienced, having varied
from 9° to 51° below zero, with a daily mean of
— 37° 47' exceeding that of January by five degrees.
The weather was more clear and serene —the usual
accompaniment of a very low degree of cold.

March was gladly welcomed, and as the days
lengthened, afforded us time for more extensive
excursions, and enabled the men to enjoy themselves
at out-door sport and games on the ice. My
inspection of the crew this month was very satisfactory ;
although somewhat blanched from the absence of day-
light between decks, ihey afforded most pleasing
evidence of being in a high state of efficiency, and
equal to the performance of any service.

On the 3rd, our fii-st spring operations commenced,
incidental to the departure of the travelling parties
as soon as the season admitted of it. It was, there-
fore, determined as a preliminary step to form a depot
of provisions on Princess Royal Islands, to which a boat
was added, and also one on the eastern land ; that in the
very remote probability of a sudden disruption of the

SPUINO OPERATIONS.

303

ICC and injury or loss of the ship, we might have
"xlcpcn.lent means at our disposal for transit to tlie
coast of America, or elsewhere, as circumstances
might render necessary. Accordingly the first whale
boat, was, after great labour, conveyed on sled-es in
safety to the larger island ; after which the prov'isions
were conveyed in the same manner (sufficient for sixty
men for three months) and on the 10th, the labour
was completed by placing a boat on the eastern
land. A record was at the same time placed in the
cairn which had been erected at the commencement
of winter. While one day engaged with others in
tracing out a road for its safe transit which we
marked with empty meat tins, a small Fox, no doubt
pressed and tamed by hunger, approached quite close
to us to examine one of them, wherein he I ckily
found a pi<-. 01 aeat. He was observed by our little
dog, who immediately gave chase, and after a short
but veiy exciting race, in which we all joined
Reynard fe^J a prey to his temerity. These pretty
little animals, from the effects of hunger, become so
tame, that they were frequently caught in the traps
on deck, having voluntarily come on board, and were
more numerous, judging from the number of captures
which were made, than at the beginning of the season
As a proof of the scarcity of their food, at this season of
the year, I found the stomachs of some quite empty
with no trace of food having been lately taken-iii
others, there were small pieces of the dwarf willow, and

304

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

in one it was distended with the hair and portion of the
hoof of a deer, which had in all probability fallen a
prey to some hungry Wolf, and thus afforded it a scanty
mefJ. A Hare was shot on the Eastern land on the
22nd — this was a great event, no less from its having
been the first killed, than from the pleasing evidence
it afforded us of the presence of such game.

On the 27th, we were cheered by the admission of
daylight to our mess-room — the skylight having been
exposed, for the first time for nearly six months ; and
I need not say how welcome and acceptable it was to
us all. An occurrence novel in itself, and no less
agreeably interesting in its results, happened on the
29th. A party having gone to the islands, returned at
noon and reported having seen a recent bear track,
which put every one on the qui vive, anxiously
watching for this expected visitor. About 4 p.m. to
our great delight. Bruin was observed slowly emerging
from the rough ice about 400 yards distant from the
ship, when all manifested the greatest anxiety to
obtain a sight of him — the majority for the first
time — and our guns were at once in readiness for
action. The dark appearance of the fox traps on the
ice, had first attracted his attention. To them he pro-
ceeded, doubtless attracted by the smell of the bait,
which must have agreeably assailed his keen scent ;
after tossing the trap about for some time, and finding
all efforts vain to obtain the modicum of meat it
contained, he wandered to and fro — evidently fearful

A BEAK.

305

o approach near the ship. His presence added to
t le wild and dreary aspect of this icy region, which
the existence of a gale tended much to heighten, as
the snow-drift was borne in dense clouds on the
wings of a biting blast. A few of us cautiously
sallied forth for the attack ; just as we had got within
range, and were shut out from view by a lofty
hummock, our approach over the frozen snow aroused
him to a sense of his danger, and off he started, much
to our chagrin. To have followed him would have
been qmte futile, and we returned on board smartly
frost-bitten from our short exposure. He again made
his appearance, but set at defiance all our efforts to
get a shot. The visit proved a welcome one, affording
us as usual an agreeable topic of conversation ; and as
he had come from the south, we assumed that he was
then on his annual migratory tour to the more distant
regions of the north. The appearance of the ship we
hoped, would prove sufficiently attractive to induce
many others to visit us.

On the 31st of March, Captain M-^Clure, Lieutenant
CressweU, and myself, proceeded to the western land
(Barmg's), it never having been visited since we took
possession of its southern extreme, when first dis-
covered. We reached it after a pleasant exciting
walk of nearly three hours over the ice ; the day cold
and clear, with a temperature of 31° below zero
The first objects that met our view, were the tracks of
a wolf, and numerous foxes, and recent appearances

306

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

of the slaughter of a Hare— every particle of flesh and
bone must have been devoured, as the only remnant
we discovered, was a little of its soft, white, downy
covering, and a few drops of blood staining the snow ;
strong proof of the ravenous hunger which exists
amongst these Foxes towards the close of the long,
dreary winter. A little further on we found a portion
of a raven's wing; doubtless, that of our former
visitor, whose absence we had so much regretted.

We proceeded directly inland, for some miles ; the
general aspect everywhere presented the same
character of Arctic barrenness and sterility as on
the eastern side j but was more generally bold and
lofty in its outline, and the land more elevated.
Cliffs, from 80 to 120 feet high, rose here and there
abruptly from the beach, presenting a bold and almost
precipitous escarpment, skirted by deep ravines and
valleys extending irregularly and tortuously into the
interior, and ultimately losing their character as the
land became low and undulating. We observed
however, in some parts of their course, that the hills
on either side were lofty, and in some places nearly
vertical, rising to a height from 200 to 300 feet.
Those having an eastern aspect, had their escarpment
formed of a hard frozen snow, contrasting forcibly
with the denuded wild appearance presented by those
with a western front, which evidenced that the pre-
vailing winds were from the latter quarter.

The soil was composed of a scoriaceous admixture.

THB WESTERN LAND.

307

w th large stones and boulders plentifully strewn over
'ts surface; the latter had a uniform eovering of
gramt.c, quart^ose, clay-slate. and other pebbles,
hm-d frozen ,n the soil, with a few scanty tufts of
withered grass interspersed throughout. In the val-
eys. Nature appeared to be more lavish of her gifts •
they were favoured by the shelter afforded by the
neighbouring hills, and the deposition of alluvium
bom down from the heights, by the melting of the
summer's snow. °

The numerous detached patches of low, stunted,
and withered grass, and tufts of moss, peering
through the snow, were, however, the only appear-
ance of more luxuriant verdure that could be ob-
served; they furnish the only ^-.tenance which can
be obtamed by the reindeer, are, and pther smaU
rodents, during the season of dearth and darkness

On our return to the ship in the evening, we had
the pleasure of seeing her dark hull again exposed to
view-the deep snow embankment which concealed it
having been removed during our absence-and thus
unrobed, she presented a pleasing contrast to the white
surface around.

An event of no less importance in Spring opera-
tions took place on the following day-the removal
of the snow from the upper deck. It was wonderful to
see what an altered appearance everything presented
on board J pleasing and agreeable was it, indeed, to
all, to walk the plank again, and receive, between decks

X 2

308

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the light of day, from which they had been so long
excluded.

The last of the very cold winter months had come to
an end, and gladly did we hail all the agreeable events
which attended its close, evidencing the advent of a
more genial season, and the commencement of active
operations. The mean temperature — 28° 8' was
higher by 8° than that of the preceding month,
although the range differed but little— from 6° to 51°
below zero. Cold westerly and north-westerly winds
had generally prevailed.

April had, at length, come, and found us in a
high state of efficiency, which from this period was
fully tested. The ice was fonnd to have increased 9§
inches, and was then G feet 5 inches thick. The first
work commenced, was to ascertain the exact quantity,
state and condition of the provisions on board, that
we might be fully aware of the extent of our re-
sources, and dependent as we were entirely on our-
selves, it was a very necessary measure of precaution.
The holds were accordingly cleared out, and light and
air admitted ; this tended much to their purification,
and then the contents were returned.

On the 3rd of April, during the prevalence of a
south-easterly gale, the temperature rose in the course
of four and twenty hours from 30° below zero to 6°
above it, but the following day was as low as before ;
a wonderful change in such a period. The continu-
ance of the gale had brought up the warmer air

OCCUPATION.

309

from the southward-a circumstance which, on several
-.^s^occur^d in subse,u^

effects of pressure m the previous season, was caulked
«»roughout, that we might be better prepared to en-
counter the enemy in the coming one

Until the middle of the month we thus continued
variou^yemploycd-the travelhng parties having been
told off, were engaged in preparing their sledges and
general equipment to start on their respective routes as
soon as the weather admitted. The neighbouring
lands were frequently visited and explored, in search
of game; but our efforts, hitherto had been unre-
warded-the occasional sight of a Ptarmigan, alone
compensating us for many a weary and toilsome march
over the ice and snow. They, however, answered one
good purpose, that they were the means of bringing
us mto good working condition, and better prepared
us lor subsequent exertion in the chase.

On the 14th, it blew fresh from north-east, subse-
quently changing to the southward ; then the tempe- '
rature again underwent a change similar to that
noticed on the 3rd ; on the 17th it rose 6° above
reezmg point, when a partial thaw set in, which was
to us qmte unexpected. It was, therefore, deter-
mined, should it continue for another day, to start the
travelling parties; the sledges (three in number,) were

310

THE NORTH-WEST PA8SA0E.

accordingly packed in the evening, and dragged out
for a short distance, preparatory to their departure.

On Good Friday, the 18th, the temperature had
fallen to 28° at noon, and continued doing so slowly
for the remainder of the day ; and, as had been
previously determined on, the travelling parties were
dispatched in the evening at 7.30 p.m. I may
here remark that ice travelling at this season of the
year is performed during the night, the persistence
of dayhght enabling them to proceed, the warmer hours
of the day being devoted to rest ; and the exhausting
effects and blindness produced by the combined action
of snow and sunshine are thereby obviated.

Each paiiy consisted of one officer and six men,
with a sledge provided with food, fuel, and clothing for
forty days ; the aggregate weight of which amounted to
1028 pounds. That under the command of Lieutenant
Haswell was ordered to proceed along the south-eastern
coast of Prince Albert's Land, continuous with that
of Wollaston previously discovered. That of Mr.
Wynniatt proceeded along the north-western coast
of this land to search the southern shores of Barrow's
Strait towards Cape Walker ; and Lieutenant Cress-
well, with his party, took the north-western coast of
Banks' Land. They left us with three hearty cheers
for their safety and success, full of hopes and in high
spirits. Each were accompanied for some distance by
a fatigue party ; and I went in charge of that which
attended the northern travellers.

MP.LV1LLE ISIiAND. SJJ

I find in the pages of my journal, written at that
tme expressions of deep regn^t, which an impartial
d. charge of the duty. I have undertaken, compels

of these detachments to Melville Island, fo, reasons too
obv,ous almost to require any explanation. Had one
party only left the 'Investigator' instead of three,
t should nndoubtedly have been sent to this far-
famed locality, from the southern extreme of which
we were distant little more than 100 miles. We wer«
aware that a welUequipped and efficient expedition
of four sh:ps under command of Captain Austin, had
left England to prosecute the search by Barrow's

T;/^^f "" ""'' P™""^ "''J^"* of "hich was to
reach Melville Island-much dissatisfaction and dis-
appomtment having been experienced in England that
Sir James Ross had failed in doing so the previous year.
It was. therefore, a matter of the most vital import-
anee to connect our Expedition with that of Captain
Austm-thus completing the circuit of search from
either s.de of the American continent-to make that
officer aware of our position, that we might be able to
afford each other mutual succour and support, and
that the efforts of search might be directed else-
where i establishing a combined principle of action
winch ,s ever the first element of success. There
eould exist no doubt that if that able and energetic
officer. (Captan, Austin), did not reach Melville Mand
in his ship, his first efforts would be made in that

312

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

\m <

direction"; this, as we subsequently learned, he suc-
cessfully accomplished, a party from his ship having
deposited a record at the far-famed sandstone near
Parry's winter quarters, where they would also have
received 'intelligence of our position, had we had the
good fortune to have done the same. With the
knowledge of our position, this officer never would
have left the Polar Sea "n 1851, but would doubtless
have despatched intelhgence of it to England that
year; this would have prevented the necessity of
the expedition of Sir Edward Belcher being sent in
search of us, when anxiety was felt for our safety ; and
by his neglecting a course which wisdom and foresight
should have dictated, did we undergo subsequent
years of hardship, privation and suffering.

There was another reason of even greater import

in the event of Franklin having gone up Wellinoton
Channel as was then very generally supposed, and
being obliged to abandon his ships to the northward
or westward, nothing was more probable than that he
w^ould endeavour to reach the locality where Perry had

spent a winter in the hope of meeting with succour

in accordance with the opinions entertained, as proved
by the great efforts made to reach it — where it
might be expected tidings of him would have been
heard. But I am consoled by the reflection that
neither he nor his gallant band were then depending
on us, amid its dreary wilds, for relief. Our south-
eastern party could have been made available for

INCIDENTS.

313

this service ; for it was only in a geographical point
of view that any results were expected, as we were
fully aware that the duty of searching its southern and
south-eastern coast was, at that time, being performed
by Mr. Rae, of the Hudson's Bay Company's Service.
It is needless to dwell further on this subject. I ad-
duce it, not for the purpose of exposing an error which
adds nothing to our credit, but that its repetition may
be avoided, as well as to show that a combined plan
of action should ever exist among Polar Expeditions,
and that all personal considerations should be cheer-
fully cast aside to promote the object of the sei-vice
on which their country sends them forth.

Immediately after the departure of our traveUing
parties, the weather assumed an unfavourable aspect"
became foggy, with a heavy gale from the north-west!
The temperature at the same time fell : we became
anxious about the northern parties, as we feared they
might be compelled to return ; but, fortunately, the gale
ceased in the course of a couple of days with every
prospect of finer weather. As there was but little to
be done in the way of work, our exertions were
devoted to the chase. Long and frequent excursions
were made to either land; on one occasion, we
discovered the remains of an Esquimaux hut on Prince
Albert's Land, also a piece of a sledge, and some
bones of seals and foxes— another proof of their having
visited this coast. On the evening of the 23rd when
all was still about the ship, a large Bear was observed

314 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

slowly coming up from the southward, and stopped
at about 180 yards: at this distance, he took up
a position, gazing intently on the ship, and eagerly
sniffing the air. We waited for a few minutes in
hope of his approaching nearer; but possibly sus-
pecting our intentions, he was proceediMg on his
course to the nortliward, when one of us fired, and
it was- thought, wounded him, as he fell on his
knees, and staggered a little. He again started at a
brisk pace, pursued by myself and a few others, when
I fired and wounded him in the hind-quarters without
arresting his progress. Not having time to reload, I
pursued him with the bayonet, having taken the pre-
caution of fixing one to my gun in the event of coming
to close quarters ; but, after a fruitless chase, he
eventually made his escape. He was a noble-looking
animal, the largest we had yet seen ; and we con-
sequently regretted that he had not fallen to our
guns.

On the 27th, we hailed with pleasure the appearance

of the first of the feathered tribe that had visited us

the hardy little Snow Bunting {Emherzia Nivalis) was
seen chirping about ; it is considered the certain har-
binger of spring.

The few remaining days of this month were un-
marked by any incident— they v. wed more boisterous
than any of the preceding—the force of the wind hav-
ing averaged 3-1, and were generally cold for the
season, the temperature ranging from 38° above, to

INCIDENTS.

315

32° below zero, with a mean of — i° 78'. Much
snow fell, which I remarked was beautifully crystal-
Hzed, some instellated, others in a pennated, hexagonal
form, larger than was generally observed during the
winter months of intense cold.

On the Ist of Mny, we found the solid ice to be
six feet eleven inches— showing an addition during
the month of six inches, a diminution of more than a
third from that of last month ; and as it did not sub-
sequently increase, the winter's ice may be estimated
at seven feet in thickness. A Seal made his appear-
ance in the fire hole on the 2nd, with less impunity
than our former visitors, for being observed by the
Quartermaster, who was standing close to it, he seized
a boarding pike, and with much adroitness passed it
through his skull, fixing it to the ice until assistance
arrived, when he became our captive. On examining
it, I found the remains of numerous old wounds in
his skin; as the males fight much amongst them-
selves at certain periods, he had doubtless got them in
combat with his fellows. There was nothing of him
lost ; the skin and skeleton were preserved fdr spe-
cimens, the blubber was kept for the dog, and the
flesh was eaten, and was considered by no means un-
palateable.

On the 5th, our efforts in the chase were, at length,
crowned with a cheering amount of success ; a party
having gone to the western land, returned in the
evening with four Hares and three Ptarmigans, afford-

816

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

ing us pleasing evidence of the existence of game on
this land, where we had hitherto looked for it so often
in vain. They had gone further inland than any who
had previously visited it, and delighted us with the
account they gave of the number of hares which
had been seen, in groups of six and seven, wonder-
fully tame, allowing them to approach near without
manifesting any alarm. They also observed numerous
bones of quadrupeds strewn about, Reindeer and
Musk Oxen ; several skulls of the latter were partially
imbedded in the soil, and one or two of them were
brought on board. On receipt of this intelligence, it
was detei-mined to send the following day a shooting
party to either land, with tents, provisions, &c., for a
week, to be relieved then by others— so that every ad-
vantage might be taken of the favourable opportunity
of procuring fresh supplies ; for however small in
quantity, it could not but prove acceptable. *

At I o'clock on the Cth, our slumber was disturbed
by the Quartermaster of the watch, reporting, to our
amazement, that a figure was approaching the ship
from the northward, which he thought was Mr
Wynniatt, and soon afterwards the nearer approach
of this officer fully verified the fact ; at the same time
his party with the sledge were observed some distance
m the rear, emerging from the rough ice that skirted
the neighbouring floe. The intelligence had brought
all immediately on deck, and a party was at once des-
patched towards them. From Mr. Wynuiatt's account

KETDRN OF /I PARTY.

317

no aceulcnt h-mself. or any of his party had been

thecauaoo h,s return, butafall on th ice, nine
days after leaving the ship, had so damag d h
chronometer as to render it entirely „,„it fo, ^^^ ,„^
be,ng nnprovded with a watch, he was unable to take
observations to detern.ine his longitude. He in con
sequenee, deen.ed it prudent to ..traee his steps-

fulfil the ten. : of h.s nstructions. The,^ „,, „„t ,„
avmlable pocke chro.ometer on board, but it was
determined to c ' „.^,i, them again that evening in the
same direefon with thirty day ' provisions. Lord
ing at 6 P.M. the two shooting parties for either land
and that of Mr. Wynniatt-both fully equipped fo;
their respective services, which had given us a
pleasmg amount of exciting work during the day-
were drawn up on the ice. and took their departure
with the never fading three chee«. I took chargeTf
a fatigue party as large as we could afford to a<»om
pany and assist Mr. Wynniatt some distance to the'
northward. The weather looked favourable ; temper
ature 3» with alight south-westerly breeze ; and Ce
earnestly wished them better luck.

On the 7th. a small party of four left the ship fo,
he western shore, to visit and have a day's sport (as
they termed it) with that which had been dispatched
thither the previous evening. Not returning, as we ex-
pected them, towards the close of the day we
assumed that the unfavorable change in the weaker

11.

318

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

with a low temperature, high winds, and dense snow-
drift, had induced them from prudential motives to
take refuge for the night in the tent, which allayed
the apprehension we should otherwise have entertained
for their safety. On the 8th, the weather had under-
gone no change, except that the temperature had fallen
several degrees below zero — notwithstanding the sun's
altitude at this period, and the short time he was
below the horizon, the low degree of cold and the high
winds scarcely allowed us to be convinced of the ad-
vent of summer, despite the cheerful appearance
which perpetual dayUght imparts to these regions.
About 8 A.M three of the party, which had the day
before left us, made their appearance on board ; the
fourth having been left on shore in the tent, had
nearly perished under the following circumstances .

The unfortunate subject of the occmrence, William
Whitfield, carpenter's mate, soon after they arrived,
left the tent with others in pursuit of hares, which
they had previously observed. When absent about
an hour, they separated by mutual consent, but
remained in sight of each other, until a heavy snow
storm coming on they were lost to view. Whitfield,
when distaul from two of his companions about
160 yards, having been warm and perspiring from
his previous efforts, felt himself become suddenly cold,
was seized with headache and giddiness, and fell
down insensible. This was unobserved by his com-
panions, who soon sought the tent for shelter.

AN INCIDENT OF SPORT. 3ig

supposing that Whitfield had preceded, or would soon

mlZd ;"• . " ' ^'"'^ "' '"^""^'''""y- ''«*u., re.

rZ f ' '' •'''' °' *''^^ '«'"^' -"a " flight

de^ of eo„sc,ous„es3 returned, when ho made an

effort to extneate himself from beneath the snowy
covenng whieh had aecumulated during the prevalence

and he had likewise lost the power of utterance. He
observed at no considerable di.fance some of the men
whom he knew were in pm-suit of him, but wa
unable to attract their attention, and from belg
covered mth snow, was unobserved. HappiW
however, the efforts he made to free himself. prodS
some excitement of the heart's action, when he felt a
glow of heat over his body, with returning power in
his arms-his lower extremities remaining stiU cold
and rigid. After a short time, he made an effort to
..■awl over the snow to regain the tent, but failed in
dmng so; he then obtained a view of the ice in the
S lait, and slowly crawled towards the beach, which
he fortunately reached. Having obsei-ved some
traces of Musk Oxen, which they had passed in the
morning, e recollected the course they had pursued
to the tent, which was only some 400 or 500 yards
distant m a neighbouring ravine-thither he again
crawled and most ProvidentiaUy reached it

The party in the tent had remained in a st'ate of great
anxiety as to his fate; they had made repeated efforts
m search of him, exposed to all the fm-y of the raging

320

THE NOllTH-WEST PASSAGE,

gale, and to the risk of losing their way in the dense
snow-drift by which they were enshrouded. Opinions
were divided in the council as to his fate, but the
majority thought that in the eagerness of chase, he
had been led far from the tent, and had returned to
the ship. While this state of uncertainty existed,
theif attention was suddenly arrested by a noise
outside, as if something slow and heavy in its move-
ments was approaching. They thought it was the
pad of a bear, the tracks of sevend having been
observed close to the tent in the morning. They at
once * stood to their arms,' ready for attack or defence
in the event of Bruin being the visitor. One of them
then opened the tent very cautiously but saw nothing,
and on venturing a step or two outside, to look
around him, instead of a bear, the appalling spectacle
of their missing companion met his view. The poor
fellow had crawled within a couple of yards of the
tent, when he was unable to proceed one step farther ;
he could not speak, his body rested on his hands and
knees, the head thrown back, the eyes fixed and im-
moveable, the nose, mouth and ears filled with snow,
which was fast accumulating about him ; the jaws and
limbs rigid. A few minutes more might probably
have terminated his earthly career, when by the
interposition of a merciful Providence, he was thus
rescued from the jaws of death. He was immediately
taken into the tent, and as the officer in charge of the
party, (Mr. Sainsbury,) subsequently informed me, no

IjL

FORTUNATE ESCAPE. 321

ho chest be,ng the only indication of life. They set
about to resuscitate the almost lifeless body, by means

mately attended with success. A party was im
mediately sent off to the ship with the in'te^Jen™:
when we dispatched a party of four men in cLg
of Mr. Pi rs Assistant Surgeon) which Mr. Ford
(Carpenter also accompanied, provided with a
sfedge .nd eveiy requisite for his removal. On
their reachiP, the ten, he had recovered the use
of his facu.. ,s, but still suffered -. the effects of
exposure; he was, however, able to oear removal to
the ship. This was carefully and safely -ffectod
under Mr, Piers' direction, and they arrived' o^totd
at 6 P.M. I then found the poor fellow much
exhausted, suffering from the effects of reactionary
ever and snow blindness, he was likewise exten-
s.vely frost-bitten-from all which, he in due course
recovered, but frequently told me he never after felt
himself equal to the same amount of exertion. Such
13 one of the many incidents inseparable from
Arctic sport, which all of us in a greater or les"
degree experienced during this and subsequent
y ars ; a hunting exc„i.ion not unfrequently entaiUng
the necessity of walking for one's life

A Snow Owl iStri. Nyclca) was seen in the
evenmg for the first time, and pursued in vain, as we

322

THE NORTH -WEST PASSAGE.

■t i! t

ever found it difiituilt to approach these watcliful
birds. Sovcral Bears had been observed by the
party returning from the sliorc, going northward ; and
two Deer had boon also seen on the land for the first
time, which we hailed as cheering news.

On Sunday morning the i:th, the shooting parties
returned, bringing with them three Hares and twenty
Ptarmigan, which were equally distributed. Our own
efforts during the week having added somewhat to
the number, we indulged in fresh game for the first
time since the bounteous supply of Musk Oxen had
ceasod during the winter. In the evening, fresh par-
ties wire again dispatched to pursue the hunting for
a week.

On the 12th, we had unusual good fortune in our
captures. A Eox hud been taken in one of the traps
--a Bear had been pursued by us at an early hour
in the mornuig, but escaped. A* party of four men,
however, who had gone on an excursion to the island,
were more fortunate— two of them having separated,
suddenly came on a Bear lying apparently asleep at
the base of a large hummock, where he had but lately
kiUed and eaten a Seal. They, at once, signalized to
the others to close quickly, and had no sooner done
so, than, roused from his lethai-gy, he boldly advanced
towards them, until his coiu-se was arrested by a ball
from the gun of the Serjeant of Marines, that struck
him in the fore paw, when he fell, but immediately
recovering himself started towards the eastern shore.

A BEAR KILLED.

323

e in our

The others poured in their fire with effect, and fol-
lowed up the chase for a considerable time, until the
ferocious, but now affrighted animal, sank to rise no
more As the wounds were all in vital parts, this
forimdable monster had ceased to exist, ere they
reached the spot where he lay. During the chase,
Urum evidently suffering from one of his wounds
paused for a few moments, and with his teeth appHed
some of his fur, and afterwards snow to the bleeding
or:fice, which we found still adhering to it, when he
tell-a strange instance of their instinctive feeling.
Iwo of the party hastened on board with the intelli-
gence, much elated at their success in killing the first
Bear of the season. A sledge party was dispatched
and returned in the evening with this great trophy

We considered him to have been about three parts
grown was in length 6 feet 4 inches, circumference of
body 4 feet 1 inches, and weighed five hundred weight
When the skin was removed, there was an entire ab^
sence of blubber, as might be expected at that time
as these animals during the winter or season of hv^
pcrnation, are mainly dependent on the resources
which the slow progressive consumption of their own
fat can furnish them, until an advancing season
enables them to procure their favourite food (Seals) in
abundance. The laxity and great capacity of the thick
reticular or cellular tissue beneath the skin, afforded
ample evidence of its exceUent adaptation as a deposit
for the winter's supply of blubber. On examining

T 2

mi^
^'*«/',

324

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGF.

' !

his stomach, there remained no longev my doubt that
the season of fasting had passed, as it m?3 quite dip-
tended witlj portions of the ^eal, bat recently swal-
lowed. The transit of a musket ball, however,
through this or^an, must have seriously deranged its
movements and disturbed the process of digestion
then actively going on wiiiiin its coats. I'he
slaugliior of our first Bear, war. co.it;idered an event of
no small importance, and from tho number seen at
this tarly period of the season, we felt certain he
"vvonld not be the last.

On this day, also, the temperature stood below zero
for the last time, as it ever afti^-wards remained
steadily above it throughout the sea^■on, and we were
glad to see the effect of the sun's ra\ ,s on the ice, as
evidenced in the glassy appearance of the hummocks,
and the sodden heavy character of the snow. The
thaw was very perceptible about the ship, when any-
thing was placed against its dark surface — a thermo-
meter on one occasion so placed showed a temperature
of 81°, when that in the shade was only 26° Fahren-
heit. The ice appeared to be extensively cracked
throughout, the cause of the loud reports frequently
heard during the winter, from which we were dis-
posed to predict an early break up.

A Fox caught on the 15th, afforded us still further
proof of the advent of summer, 'or instead of its
snow white coat of winter, it had a-Lumed its partially
hrmio summer garb. Tht ;^iif.w had nearly dis-

1' '

THE HUNTING PARTIES.

325

appeared from the neighbouring lands, which again
<lisplnyed their rnsset aspect, but in the ravines it
remained more or less accumulated throughout the
year and m our excursions we were able to indulge
m the luxury of a draught of snow water resulting
irom the thaw, when toiling weary and exhausted
over tlie land. All our journeys were now performed
at night, the sun having last set on the 10th, and it was
a truly charming picture to see him coursing above the
horizon at midnight, amid the dreary solitude which
surrounded us. The dryness of the air on the 17th was
such as to enable the men to perform a very important
sanitary operation, that of airing bedding-the first
time for a long period ; but care should ever be taken
that this practice is not had recourse to in a humid
atmosphere, as moisture readily becomes deposited
and cannot fail to prove a source of much evil

The hunting parties returned and brought on board
no less than sixty-three Ptarmigan, which, with what
we had shot during the week, gave us a good supply
ot these delicious birds.

The remains of an old Esquimaux encampment
were likewise discovered on the western shore ; so that
we had now positive evidence of either side of the
Strait, havmg been at one time visited by this migra-
tory race. ^

!, 1

'^26

THE NOIITII-WEST I'ASSACiK.

CHAPTER XIII.

An unexpected Arrival— Casualties— Results of tlie Journey—A
Bear killed — Strange Discovery — Despatch of a Tarty-
Queen's Birthday— Elucidation of a Mystery— Gulls— A Bear
—Discovery of Coal Formation— Return of Travelling Party
and Incidents— Esquimaux— A Visit to them— Deer— Rain—
Ducks— Return of (Captain MTlure— Results of Travelling
— Intelligeuce received from Esquimaux— Incidents— Frost-
bite— Bears— Return of Mr. Wynniatt's Party— Results —
Necessity of combined Action— Character of Land— Incidents
—Return of Lieutenant Cresswell's Party— Progress of Thaw
—State of the Ice — Temperature and Wcathr-.

At 7 A.M. on the morning of the 20th of May, a
party was observed approaching the ship from the
northward ; and as the intelligence spread, it caused
a great amount of anxiety amongst us, as we
knew not who they might be, or of what news they
might be the bearers. None of our travelling
parties being yet due, our surprise was the greater.
A fatigue party was at once dispatched to their assist-
ance, and in the course of an hour, while eagerly

AN UNKXPKCTEI) AlllUVAL.

327

wntclung their movements, W(, could discern the in-
(I'VKliial forms (,f the men; tli y proved to be the
party of l.ieutenant Cresswell. Al,out this time we
coul.l (hstmctly see there was an occupant on the sledge;
on closer uispection, two were observed, and five in
harness dragging it. Tliey soon reached the ship when
we became aware of the cause of their return, which the
two mvalids on the sledge had in a great degree prepared
"s for. We than learned that they had experienced,
during the entire period of their absence, very un-
favorable weather, which told severely on the men ■
that after rounding Point Rtissell, they proceeded
along the north-western coast of Banks' Land for
about eighty miles. Then two of the men who for
some days had been more or less inefficient for duty
havmg had their feet and toes severely frost-bitten
which ha.l subsequently become gangrenous, were
utterly unable to work at the sledge, or even to walk •
Under these cn-cumstances. Lieutenant Cresswell con-
sidered it would be imprudent to advance furtlier
and encamped for two days with a view of recruiting
his m\3n, and of ascertaining if any improvement
would take place in the state of the invalids ; but
at the end of this perio;], matters still becoming
worse, he determined on returning to the ship. This
officer speaks in the highest terms of the patience,
fortitude, and heroic endurance of these two brave
sufferers, Joseph Eacey, (sail-maker) and Ellis Grif-
fiths, (A.B.,) who, when suffering intensely, still per-

328

THE NORTH-WEST PAH8A0E.

sisteH 'v ,L •,;.. work; nnd it wns onlv when rendered
uiieily UK ,Hi);.liJe of walking thtit tliey consented to
be placed on the sledge. TJie toil and labour of
dragging a heavy sledge with the addicional weight
of their two disabled messmates, therefore, devolved
on the remainder oi the ^mrty ; well and nobly did
they acquit themselves, and their care and attention to
the invalids deserved the highest praise.

Their state on arrival was truly pitiable. Both
were incapable of walking, and had to be carried on
board. Facey had his feet and hands so severely frost-
bitten as to be quite unable to use either ; mortification
had set in, in nearly all the toes and fingers. Portions
of several were subsequently removed by an.putation ;
and the feet were in such a state, that itv^us only with
the greatest diflBculty they were saved.* Griflfitl.s,
who was a most excellent man, was similarly, but less'
severely afflicted; and the remf>"al of some of his
toes became necessary. Both suliered nuick from
low, irritative fever; and, from the effects of eating
lee o.i..:l snou' ravenr .ly, to nllay the burning thirst
then present, the i.iouth and entire of the cesophag al

This excellent petty officer subsequently served with . . ,„
H.M.S. 'Coruwallis' (Captain Welleslcy, C.B.), in the V 'tic
and West Indies. He never entirely r.covered the use of u.
hands and feet, that -e ,. cularly influen d by the stat. of
the weather-change. . ,h he could bretell witl .e

greatest accuracy from li.e paiii and uneasiness l.. experienced in
them.

A BEAR KILLBD.

829

passage were excoriated and inflamed to a high dearee

sunering of these brave fellows, from whose h,« „
".urmur never escaped during their t^g S m
journey, where so little could be done to .T */
»d anguish the,e,periencedXlr^^^^^^^^
. .on wh,eh they subsequently manifested tiro gi^!

forth tCl": "^ '"""""'"' "^« ™^'' «« to ;ii

» senes ol chflS, from 500 to 600 feet high, which

i^rl ttTl:tnT^^'^ °^ ^-^-'

tne trending of which was followed in n
when a wide expanse rf ''"^ ''"''"'"•'''•

hummock in the line of his march Otl ^ ^^
ported at the stem under cover o the ^ , ^""^
that we we. dete. ,.«, he I ttltlZ'l'
Steadily advance* i dm.K+i . escape. He

blacK mass b e tf " "'^ *" "^ *■"= '"'^^

o<iou.thatfi, t Hir ,"fr*r"'"''''"^'

330

THE iNUIll'll WKST J'ASSAi;i;.

I '

1 1

ninety yards of the ship, wlusri Captain M'Chire tired
and wounded him in tlie hack. He fell, hut got again
on his h ;s. A few of us then sallied forth to assail
him mure closely. Although the first wound appeared
a mortal cue, the monstir writhed violently, sitting on
his haunches, evidently paralysed ; when ti ball from
my gun, passing through his head, laid him lifeless on
the ice. No tiijic was lost in removing his skin ; and,
us this was the largest Bear we had yet seen, it nuide
un admirable specimen. The dimensions were, in
length, 7 feet 9 inches, circumference of body 6 feet ;
his weight »vas estimated at 700 pounds, but would,
of coui-se, have been greater, with his proper casing of
blubber, which was thm jiist forming. As it was my
custom to have the stomachs of all aninuils examined,
in the hope of obtaining some trace of the object of
our search, knowing that they would swallow anything
when impelled by hunger,. I directed that of this Bear
to be opened in my presence. It was distended with
water ; and, on opening it, I discovered a few raisins,
small pieces of pork fat cut irregularly, some tobacco
leaves, and two pieces of common adhesive plaster ;
from their appearance, they had been but recently
swallowed, and nothing further was fouiul in the
stomach or intestines. That he hud evidently got
them where civilized man either was or had been, there
could exist no doubt ; and I immediately made known
the result of my examini'.tion to Captain M'Clure,
who was equally astonished at this strange discovery.

STHANCiH DlSCOVtEr.

831

Our hrst ,n,prcss,o„5 were that our long-lost Consort,
the tntcrprize n.ight be to the «outhwar<l-the
<lu»t.o„ ,„ whieh the Boar ha.l come; but the
perleet state u> which the articles were found, Ic.l me
to express u.y opinion that they eould not have been
swallowed more than an hour or two, if even so long •
It was the«;fore, improbable that she should be within'
hat d,3ta„ee No further investigation was made
into the „.atter, but it was at once .letermined to
send a party along the south-east coast of Baring
IshMul with twenty days" provisions, in the hope of
elucidating this mystery, and of ascertaining if any of
our countiymen were on the coast, that we might afford
them timey aid and succour. An opinion was en-
tertmneil that the articles thus discovered might have
been thrown from the ship when drifting about the
Strait, and then picked up by Bruin on the floe • but
us we couW not establish the fact, preparations were
made for the early despatch of the party. Accordingly,
on the 22nd, Lieutenant Cresswell, and the i^mnant of
lus former i^soeiates, with two fresh hands, were dis-
patched on this service. Captain M'Clure and myself
aeoompamed him with a strong fatigue party, as far
as the Island, when they proceeded on their way

Ihe 24th of May being the anniversnry of the
birt day of our most Gracious Queen, the res» Jof
the Investigator were gladly taxed to do it honour-
and an ensign was hoisted for the first time since leav.'
■ug Behrmg » strait. At noon a myal salute was fired

332

THE NORTK-WEST PASSAGE.

with our two guns, and a small mortar — the first,
perhaps, that ever resounded withm the precincts of
the Polar Sea — this followed by three hearty cheers ;
and the evening was spent in hilarity by the ship's
company, to whom an extra allowance of grog had
been issued.

A party who had gone to the islands, in pursuit of
two Bears reported to have been seen, returned to-
wards mid-night, with a trophy more acceptable to us
than any other success they could have met with —
this was a preserved meat tin, one of those used to
point out the sledge track. To this they were at-
tracted by following a Bear's track, when they found
it capsized, and containing a few articles similar to
those found in the Bear's stomach on the 21st, with
maiKS of where the animal had been tossing it about ;
thus was solved the mystery which had caused so
much conjecture and uneasiness respecting our
Consort. It was then too late to recall the party ;
but the journey would tend to make our search on
either side of the Strait more complete.

Gulls were seen for the first time on the 27th, near
the islands, which affbrdel an indication of water
forming, perhaps, to the southward. Two Wolves
were likewise seen coursing along from shore to shore
across the Strait ; a few of us went in pursuit, but
their pace was too rapid to allow of our coming up
with them, and we were consequctitly obliged to re nice
our steps to the ship.

V '■■

-the first,
■ccincts of
;y cheers ;
the sliip's
grog had

pursuit of
urned to-
^ble to us
ei with —
le used to
were at-
ley found
similar to
list, with
it about ;
aused so
^ing our
le party;
search on

7th, near
of water
Wolves
i to shore
rsuit, but
>ining up
to re nice

DISCOVERT OP COAT.. 333

Early on the morning of the 38th, a Bear was
observed near the ship by the Quarter-master. which
we succeeded in killing, but it was s,„aller tha; JZ
of the o he. The number of these animals seen
passmgt rough this Strait, fully eonfinned the stTte"
«^^Esqmma„x, of its being the land of the

About this time, during my excursions into the
...tenor of Prince Albert's land, while trave.i n
of the numerous gorges in which it abounds I ob
-rved several slaty, and dark clay formatijn o .'
ther sule more particularly at the angle of its wind-
.ngs, which were somewhat abrupt-th. line of stratifi-
a .„„ mchnmg from the horizontal in some places to
t rty Ave degrees, the dip generally corresponding to
hat of the land. It was chiefly composed of .Lk
a unated earth and shale; in the substance of he
latter, and mtervening between its layers, which were
as.ly separated, thin lamina, of coal were discenlC
and „, some situations, hues of it were obsen-ed in the
formation at some distance-recognized by its J
known lustre. Sulphur in combination with iron was
ako found, and numerous specimens we., obtll
Smilar appearances I subsequently observed in other
parts of tins land ; establishing, beyond donbt the

~eofeoal,hadweonlyhadt,,Ludmeanst

On the 29th, Lieutenant Haswcll and his party
arrived from their .journey along the south-ca'stt'

334

4 ■

I ill .

htl 1^1

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

coast, in good health — apparently more robust
than when they started, for having met with game
and driftwood in considerable quantity, they had
fared much better than th > parties that had gone to
the northward, where neither could be procured.

They followed the coast line, which led them into
several bays and one or two deep inlets, nearly all of
which were explored. They presented in their outline
the same general character as other lands in the Polar
Sea. On the 14th of May, they reached their turning
point in latitude 70° 45' N. longitude 114° W.
on the northern shore of a large inlet, which was sub-
sequently called Prince Albert's Sound. Strange
to narrate, ten days later Mr. Rae arrived on the
southern coast of the same inlet, about forty miles
from where our party had erected their cairn, after
exploring the southern coac::, of WoUaston Land. How
important it would have been, had these two parties
been fated to meet, as intelligence of our position
would have been received in England at the close of
the year, on the return of Mr. Rae. Another proof,
if any were wanting, to show the necessity of search-
ing expeditions acting in concert, and with a previous
knowledge of each other's plan of operations.

On their return, when about eight days journey-
Cat their rate of travelling) from the ship— and some six
or seven miles distant from the coast, they were
astonished on finding an Esquimaux encampment on
the ice. The approach of the party was conducted

ESQUIMAUX. oo-

11 , " '™''' "^'f"''^" "" ^%»^ of hostility
nen% comm™,eat. „„ ; this could only be »ai„.
tamed by s,g„s, as none of them knew the lan^ua!"

sexes ™e "7"^ °'"™"^ '^'^^ "' •'o*
cracks Tnth ™'f °^"' "''"''"'S S^*'^ '» 'he

Bring ,1 1 to\: " '"" ""'"'"^ "p-^-'-t-

qoente Z t ' ™^ '""^'""^'^™'' "' «"«o.

q ence, our men presented them with a few uniform

b ton, wh,eh they appeared to value highly andM
rerun] reppivprl « fr. „ '&"V' "^"u m

Jh was thepnncpal event met with by this partv
e i77- • ''^^^"™ « WablerepoC
P ols o w '"'/"'' "'^«'-~f the land,

the Lf I r** '^"™'"S ™ *e former, and on

M sSe '^1 "™ '-"'^fourReinde;r,thr
Musk Oxen, and three animals which were reported
to me to bo Moosedeer (&„«,, Aloe.). As 11^!
the fi,.t mstanee, I believe, of the latter havi, rbren

lesptcting them from mv infomnnf wi.^ •

*„ii- ^ , V "dormant, wiio was an m-

336

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

: in ,

On receiving intelligence of tho proximity of the
Esquimaux, Captain M'Clure determined to proceed
with the interpreter to their encampment, with a view
of obtaining all the information they could give ; and
at 6 P.M., on the morning of the same day, they
started with a sledge and six men, provisioned for
twelve days.

On the 3 1 st, a small herd of Deer were observed
crossing the Strait. A few of us went out to lay in
wait for them, and having, after much trouble taken
up a good position, as they were coming within range,
the gong on board was incautiously struck at eleven
o'clock as usual. No sooner did they hear the sound
than they turned and tied precipitately to the shore
fiom whence they had come, and thus destroyed all
our hopes of obtaining so valuable a prize.

The first rain of the season fell at this time, but so
light as to be barely perceptible. A flock of Pin-tailed
Ducks {Anas Cuudacuta) and also one of Snow Geese
{Anser Fvperhoreus) were seen going to the northward,
joyously told us of the advent of summer. Although
the weather in the early part of the month had been
unusupV' cold and boisterous for the season, the last
few days had in part compensated for its previous
severity. Stiil there was no diminution in the thickness
of the ice ; the mean of j^everal borings was found to be
seven feet, but of a totally different character from its
former flinty, adamantine hardness ; and was then so dis-
integratf;d and softened by the permeation of water, as

A RAPID JOORNET.

837

to afford easy progress to the boring irons A
m th but now chsappeared under the influence of a

helow to 47 above zero, with a mean at 18° 8i)' F
Our exertions in the ehase continued to be attended

i L; il''"" ""'^ ^™^' -- ^'Id'^'J '0 our stock.

week ortl """ ""' "'^ "f f'*^'- ^o' "-"e a
week. On the evening of the 5th of June we were

muc surpnsed on observing the appn,aeh o Capl^:

freely have beheved until assured of the fact that
he journey was accomplished in somewhat kss th»

Haswell-this, however, appeared to answer no other

~;T "'^' "' r''""*'"" » -P-o„ at t
expense of the men. In justice to the latter officer it
must be stated that from the leisurely mode of trlve
.ng a opted, he brought his men on'board in g^ "
sta.e o( health and efficiency for further service if
necessay. While the party of the forme, ^r^' .o

natme of he march, without sufficient rest, that one
Mf were placed on the sick list on their ret» -Z
of whom ,,.. ...verely f«>st.bitten)-and the remaind r
told me thr»t xhev awU r,«f i, . • c»"»Juuer

for si. hours 1 iTh ™""'""' ^^j'""™"^
Thi, . ™ '""?'-'•. "t the same rate of travelhng
Th,B on-cumstance I adduce to show how httle a

(] '

338

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

display of energy may avail, when anacconipanied by
discretion and judgment, and to point out the neces-
sity there exists of exercising both.

They met the tribe of Esquimaux a short distance
to the northward of where they had been formerly seen,
the latter having a day or two previous removed their
tents to new fishing ground. These appeared simple
and harmless, the most primitive of their race that
had yet been met with, and occupied the most
northern position of any seen hitherto oi subsequently
by us. They said that they belonged to the neigh-
bouring land of WoUaston, and had never seen white
men before, until visited by the party of Mr. Haswell,
their only communication being with the neighbouring
tribe further inland, with whom they trade— many
of them inhabit the land to the eastw .rd. They
drew an outline of the coast, by desire, on paper being
placed before them for the purpose. On reaching a
certam point which they marked, they said that from
It, they could see across the Strait, what they desig-
nated, the Great Land, meaning that of America,
but that none of tliem had ever visited it. It was
laid down quite in accordance with its outline on
the chart, and on reaching that point where its
continwty wat^ interrupted, the draughtsman stopped,
saying he had been no further along the coast. The
pencil was then taken up by the wife of the chief, a
woman who evinced great quickness and inteUigenc'e ;
and in a very determined, dashing manner, she formed

INTELUOENCB PKOM ESQUIMADX. 339

Victoria Tr. . ' "'""'• ''^'"^^" ■»^»«'«»on a„d

topper m exchange for «kino fi,

brouffht on Imar,! t. . ■' ''"*'''' "P and

I ever Z 1J "^ "''"""'^ ""^ ?'"•'=«* "-^
' '^^ '™' "'• the natives appeared to think it

M'n Tt, -^ ™ "°' ""''^ '"'«™ to Captain

rr r ' "-"''' -■^^ "'-^-'"^ they spoke. It

.0 be regretted that .< e hurried natufe of the
v^.t. wh.eh barely amounted to hajf-an-hour did not

other In \ ^'''"' '""™' "'■<>''«. "eedles, and

othc cutting and piercing instruments were aU

obid "Zr'T""' 'P"™^™ of which wef
obtamed-fashioned mto shape entirely by hammering

P™™g to see the adn.irable nature of the work,

z 2

340

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

considering the means by which it was effected, and
the form reflected great credit on their ingenuity and
excellence in the adaptation of design.

Our party made them several presents, and much
astonished at such liberality, they wished to know
what they should give in return, but on being told
they were gifts from our chief, they at once pre-
sented several copper instruments and skins. They
were quite devoid of all that mercenary spirit, and
those strong thieving and other propensities so
universal amongst the Esquimaux on the American
coast-^the result of their contact with civilized man
— being a few of the evils which invariably follow his
footsteps over the world, when antagonized by no
controlling power. They were quite ignorant that
there existed any other people differing from them-
selves in manners and customs ; and asked our party
where they came from, and where their hunting
ground was situated. Their entire occupation con-
sisted in hunting and fishing, migrating to and fro
along this coast, fixing their temporary abode wherever
success was most Ukely to attend their efforts j and
appeared to be influenced by no other feeling than
the acquisition of what was essential to their
sustenance from one season to another, to 3,fford them
sufficient food and raiment for sustaining life and pro-
tecting them from the cold. They manifested great
consternation on seeing one of the guns discharged to
gratify their curiosity; having never seen or heard

EJECTS OF FROST-BITE. 34I

to al ' ,T' ''''^''' "^ '""''^^'' " g™ -=« Offered
to each of the men who would visit us, and other
presents to the women. They promised to come
but perhaps the state of the ice subsequently, prevented
them. It ,8 quite deplorable to think of so fine a
race as they were represented to be, being so
utterly neglected, and existing in a state of such
abject heathenism; more particularly when we find
the southern boundary of their country within twenty-
five mJes of the northern limit of the elusive
territories of that Company (Hudson's Bay) who
obtained and stiU hold a ehart-^ granted /o them,
ha tfcy might be the means of promoting commerce
and advancmg civilization amongst these wild but
mtere^ting people. How far they have succeeded in
the former, they probably can tell, but how they
have neglected the latter, we have seen.

One of the men of this party, Cornelius Hewlett
was brought on board in a veiy deplorable state
having been frost-bitten in both feet on the night of
his departure from the ship, although the temperature
was then only two degrees below freezing point This
occurred from his feet becoming benumbed in going
through the several pools of water that had formed '
on the floe; and the canvas boots which he woro
being m the first instance rather smaU. wer« contracted
stUl more by the wet, impedmg free circulation in his

w IP -IT'

342

THE NORTH-WEST PAS? vGF

Li i

I ,! 1

feet by the pressure. On removing them the follow-
ing morning, when they encamped, the toes of both
feet were quite rigid and frost-bitten. To restore
warmth to the parts was, of course, the tir? object,
but instead of having recourse to ordinary friction
with the hand, directions were most ijudiiously
given to rub them with concentrated spirits ; this
produced such violent local reaction, that inflamma-
tion set in of such an acute, unhealthy cL racter,
mortification ensued. On his arriving on boail I
found the toes of the right foot in an advanced st it^
of gangrene, which entailed the necessity of then-
removal by amputation, together with the great an,
a portion of the second toe of the other foot, and it
■wm with the utmost difficulty that the three remain-
ing toes were saved. This occurrence was the more
to he regretted, for had judicious means been used
in the first instance, and ordinary care afterwards,
such a result would not have happened. The poor
fellow still dragged at the sledge as long as he was
able, although the pain he was suffering must have
been agonizing ; and when at last obliged to forego
labour, he had to walk through pools of freezing
water and thawing snow, as it was not considered
compatible with the rapidity of the journey, that he
should be carried on the sledge— hence the sad
results I have mentioned.

Several Bears were daily seen making their way to
the northward, and were pursued whenever there

RETURN 0» TRAVElLliKS.

343

appeared any chance of succc .. by parties of three or

or nfl """i Y "'''"''"■ '^''^'^ ^y "" Warance,
or influenced by strong insti, .tive feelings of self!

preservation, they never .aanift .d any desire for
2^"^. and seldom could we. /e.^^ jj^

^nge of our guns. Three a .od the ship quite

OS on the evening of the ..^.d the excitement
« to the nnexpeete, „al of the travellir^
party after takmg a survey tney leisurely walked off
when they were pursued by a party of three-by whom
or two of them were wounded-who foUowed
_."v blood marks on the snow for a considerable
distance without success.

Early on the morning of the 7th, the party of Mr
Wynnmtt made their appearance from the northward'
when a fatigue party was sent out to their assistance.'
We soon had the pleasure of receiving them on
board with three cheers, looking weU and in good
health after their journey, the last few days of which
wore rendei-ed unusually harassing from the progress
0^ thaw, and the accumnlation of water on the ice.
Mr. Wynnmtt after ronnding Point Peel, fomid the
eoast line to trend to tue south-east, into a deep inlet
the entrance to which he crossed, stiU foHowing the
coast whjch then took a north-easterly diiecfion;
this led him into a bay of considerable extent, from
which the outline of the land stUl tn.nded to the
eaat-north-east, in the direction of Cape Walker, until
he reached his furthest point on the 24th of May

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Sciences

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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80

(716)873-4303

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«*

344

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Strange to narrate, on the day previous (23r(l) a
party under Lieutenant Osbom from Captain Austin's
expedition, reached within about sixty miles of Mr.
Wynniatt's turning point. How important, therefore^
It would have been had these officers effected a
junction— which they could have done with the
greatest ease had they been aware of each other's
contiguity. Thus was another chance lost of com-
pleting the chain of communication between the
eastern and western Expeditions. This is the fourth
instance of a similar kind 1 have narrated, where we
have seen parties roaming over the desolate Polar
wilds, with a common object in view, reaching within
one or two days' travelling of each other, and from
ignorance of each others intended operations, and the
non-establishment of any preconcerted plan for
forming a rendezvous—where if they did not happen
to meet, they would at least have left information for
each other's guidance— their labours were entirely
unproductive. The vital importance of such Expe-
ditions being aware of the relative position of each
other, is too obvious to call for further observation.
It would not only have rendered the search in every
respect more perfect, but would l^ave kept open a
communication with England; thereby conveying
intelhgence of our proceedings, that could not but
have been acceptable to a country, which had made,
and was making, the most noble and unparalleled
efforts in search of her ill-fated sons.

RESULTS OP THE JOURNEY.

345

Mr. Wynniatt in his journey discovered no trac ,
ot the great object of our search, nor any evidence of
mm having ever been on the coast. After rounding
I'oint Peel, he informed me the character of the land
became bold and rocky-high and precipitous cliiFs
were met with, of limestone formation ; but as he ad-
vanced to the eastward, it became low and flat The
ice m Barrow's Strait was chiefly of that year's forma-
tion, but m the bays or inlets there were numerous
old, heavy floes of stupendous size, which appeared as
It never to have moved. The opinion has been ad-
vanced by some, that a Strait exists between Points
Lock and Willoughby; this I am firmly of opinion
IS no hmg more than an inlet, for it having been
iny 111 fortune to spend my last winter in the ice
not far from this locahty, drifting in the pack
from Melville Islands to near Cape Cockburn in
liM. Ships ' Resolute ' and 'Intrepid,' I found no
indication whatever of there having been a set of
the ice in that direction, as the course of our drift
proved, although strong northerly and north-westerly
wmds prevailed. The assumption, therefore, that the
coast hne is not there continuous, is I think erroneous
and unsupported by one particle of evidence. This
land, presenting a northern aspect, and had a more bleak
and desolate appearance than that on either side of
the Pnnce of Wales' Strait; it was still snow-covered
with no appearance of thaw, and unvisited by any of
the birds or animals which our travellers so plentifully

346

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

met with on re-entering the Strait on their return.
They saw at various times on the journey no less
than thirteen Bears, but as they could not make them
in any way available for use, under the circumstances,
they were allowed to proceed on their way unmolested. '
The shooting parties returned on the evening of
the 7th, bringing with them six Ducks, thirteen
Hares, twenty-two Ptarmigan, some Golden Plover,
{Charadrius Pluvialis) and a few Sanderlings, {Call
dris Arenaria). They reported that the thaw was
rapidly progressing, that the ravines and valleys were
fuU of running water, and that the pools collected on
the sea-ice were in some places nearly waist deep. The
appearance of the men on coming on board bore '
ample testimony to the exertion they had undergone
in dragging the sledge. The boat which was left on
the eastern shore in March for the use of the travel-
ling parties being no longer required, all our available
men were dispatched early on the morning of the 9th,
to bring it on board. This was a work no less diffi'
cult than harrassing, from the labour required to drag
it through deep pools of water and sludge. The party
shot several Ducks, numerous* flocks of which they
saw. On receipt of this intelligence, I proceeded to-
wards midnight with four companions, in the hope of
adding to our stock of game, and perhaps of meeting
our absent party from the southward, whose return was
then due. We were enabled fully to confirm all there-
ports that had reached us with respect to the state of the

SPORT.

347

■ce It w»s nearly everywhere covered with pools of
water, through some of which we waded, and found
them nearly waist deep; the cracks were very numer-
ous. conveying the pleasing evidence, that with the
presence of the other forces at work for its destruction
a break-up of the ice might be expected at an earty
penod. We had a good night's sport, and consider-
ably enriched our larder with Ducks and Gulls-the
latter had coUected in considerable numbers on the
edges of the rocks, there were three distinct species
(Laru, Glaucm, Larus Argentatus, Lame THdacHjlus)
On ascendmg the summit of the island, we could
d:scem with the aid of the telescope, a small dark
moving mass, far distant on the ice, which left no
doubt on our minds of its !.eing the gaUant little
band, whose return we were anxiously lookin<r for

We immediately retraced our steps to the ship
which we reached about 5 a.m. with the intelligence
when a party was sent out to meet and assist them'
About 8 A.M. we had the pleasure of welcoming
them 0.1 board, all more or fess fagged from the hard
work they had lately gone through, owing to the state
of the ice; and a few of them were subsequently
placed on the s,ck list. Lieutenant CressweU informed
^ that they proceeded along the south-western coast of
Baring Wand, as far as the entmnce of the Strait, then
westward along its southern coast, .funded Nelson's
Head, and finally reached Cape Lambton. from
whence they retraced their steps. Near the latter, and

348

THE North-west passage.

about fifty yards from the beach, they discovered a
small fresh-water lake, with driftwood strewn along
its edge, having every appearance of its being brought
there by tidal influence, although far removed from
the usual line of high-water mark, which barely
exceeds a rise and foil of two feet. This drift is
difficult of explanation, unless caused by the strong
westerly winds which generally prevail.

Their report of the state of the ice, and the progress
of thaw, was very satisfactory ; one crack or opening
was met with near Nelson's Head, thirty feet broad, that
promised to arrest their progress, until one of Halkett's
boats, with which they were provided, enabled them
to convey the sledge and all its contents in successive
trips across in safety, without loss or casualty of any
kind— another instance of the great utility of these
admirable contrivances on this kind of service.

All our parties having arrived in safety on board,
it was not considered judicious, from the state of thJ
ice, to dispatch shooting parties again to the land,
and but little remained to be done to render us
ready to take advantage of an early break up.
As it was determined to leave the whale boat then
at the island, with the depot we had formed there,
some carpenters went down for three days, to put it in
a state of thorough efficiency, and to rebuild the cairn
which had partially fallen during the winter. Another
detachment, under Mr. Wynniatt, was dispatched
to the western shore for the tent, equipage, &c., left

INCIDENTS.

349

there by the last shooting party. On the I2th
'made my last visit to the island with Mr Court'
When some observations were completed with the
theodol^e and we returned in the evening to the
Ship. They met with numerous adventurous Bear

Zj^f !T- ^'" '""''''^"'^ °f consequence oc-
curred for the remainder of the n.onth. We could
not leave the ship, owing to the state of the ice The
men were employed in making the necessary pre-
pm..t,ons for sea in sails, rigging, &c., and we watched
w.th da,ly mcreasing interest and anxiety the progress
of that thaw which was ultimately to liberate us from
our icy prison.

The summer solstice came, when the sun again
commenced his southerly course; but it is sLe
time after his departure, before we are able to take
advantage of what his power has elFeeted-generaUy
not unti he has made his appearance once mo^ inlZ
reg.on of the Antarctic .one. Thus we remained „
hstless inactivity, tantalized by the sight of numerous
flocks o Ducks and Geese flying to and fro to those
secluded retreats where their eggs a. deposited, and
young brought forth safe from all daring intruders
bu cheered by the slow, yet certain destructive po";
that was being wrought on the ice around us. Many
familiar pmnacles and hummocks that for months we
had been accustomed to gaze on, gradually diminished
ceased to be famiUar, and ultimately faded fro" .i

350

THE NOHTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Each officer and man was ordered to have a knap,
sack containing a change of warm clothing, to meet
any sudden emergency. AU were, therefore, in
readiness for a hasty departure, should untoward
circumstances render it necessary.

On the 30th, the ice had entirely thawed from the
ship's side, and she floated in a dock of nature's own
formation. In the evening, the line of the tide guage
was suddenly drawn out several feet, which was attri-
butable to some slight movement in the ice ; and we
hailed it with pleasure as the first, although slight,
motion that had yet been observed.

The weather, throughout the entire month of June,
was very favourable for breaking up the ice. The
temperature ranged from 17° to 53° F. The latter
proved, the highest registered during the summer; it
was on the 8th, and the mean of the month was 36-'o8.
Strong winds prevailed from west and south-west, and
for the few last days of the month, from the north-
east, which exercised a powerful etiect in setting the
ice in motion at an earlier period than we subsequently
experienced elsewhere.

STATE or THE ICE.

351

CHAPTER XIV.

dens-Dnfting-The MmOs-Ovr Floe-Make Sail-

Pom Armstrong-Reindeer-Drifting .„ the No ehward-
Effec., of Gunpowder on lee-Poin. Lady Ro.,_A PoL

«^.»-Dr,ft,ng-Currents-A,pect to the Northward-
Po...,o„ on the ,0.h-S„ppo,ed appearanee of Land-Open
Water-Make Sail-Fog-It, Diffienlties-Ship agronnll
Her Safety-Strange Coineidenee-Aspeet of fteVoa"^

I. Zf " w ','' """■"--'"-■"« »i'>. GunpoJeL
b1 rr "~^''" °' "" ■«' '» "■» Northward-

-AGr r-,*" ^""'"-^-'-SP'nker Boo™ earried away
A Gale-Dnftrng-Unplea^nt PMition and Proapeela.

The advent of July was joyfully welcomed, and still
iound us in a state of anxious preparation for the
great event, to whieh we all ardently looked forward
-our hberation-as we continued to observe, what-
ever could foreteU, or establish the slightest move-
ment m the ice, which we found had decreased in
thickness, 2 feet 2* inches during the previous

852

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

month. Numerous holes had been formed in its sub-
stance to the water beneath, whose increasing extent
was eagerly watched and reported on, as the process
of disintegration rapidly advanced.

A Parhelion was visible at 10 p.m., on the 3rd ; but
much less brilliant than this beautiful phenomenon, as
seen in the winter. On the 7th, the ice-mate made
a cheering report from the crows-nest— a space of
open water was observed extending along the eastern
shore to the northward for a couple of miles; the
first blue water yet seen. On the same day, the visit
of a few Mosquitoes, caused a lively degree of interest ;
and we submitted to their assault with very different
feelings than they would have created under other
circumstances.

From this period each successive day revealed
some change in the aspect of the ice, which was
evidently doomed to early destruction ; the cracks to
the southward having opened out considerably, and con-
nected themselves with the water formed along either
shore. On the 1 3th, that between our position and
the islands, was observed in motion, and open water
could be seen extending from shore to shore ; while
to the southward of the island, nothing but loose
sailing ice could be seen. To the northward it did
not present the same pleasing prospect, as water
could only be traced along the shore of Prince
Albert's Land to a point of the coast which bears my
name. This is a prominent feature in this Strait, some

LIBERATION OP THg SHIP. 353

eleven or twelve n,ilea distant, to which our eyes
h«d been often directed during the long pell
t 7 ""Pn-nment. in the hope fondly Id'S
-.of passing It one day or other on our'homeS

There was then no doubt that th^ c* •.
navigable eveiywhe. to the sl^d ^ l^itir

weak up those barriers by which we were still retained
Nor were we kept much longer in bonTar A."

irdtrt'^^r-^"'"'^^''''"^^^^^^

sta » t'rri' '"' n '"■'' ^' ^- ''■"
idry as tar as our land-marks enabled us tn

by means o Iv, i. ^ ' """'"'" '^^'^ '^i*! »"*.

rxLirith" ™;:r :!^ n" "^-'-•
::T:t\"''t*-'^-'^--f::^e

m September, when our safety depended entii^lv on
our remaining attached, in which state we coSd
throughout all our perilous wanderings.

rhe anchors were not laid out too soon. butp«,ved
a good precautionary measure, for at -iM ,T]Z
.cesep^ted and broke up so gently ab'nt s t
the first intimation we had of this great fact; was

A A

354

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

seeing the ship floating in and surrounded once
more by her own element— thus testifying, that
the long wished for period of liberation had then
arrived. We were slowly borne to the south-east
in company with our floe, with scarcely a breath
of air.

So sudden was our departure, that some of our
men who had gone for their washed clothes, then
drying on a neighbouring floe, had not time to
regain the ship ; and myself with one or two others,
only a few yards distant, with difficulty got on board,
before she moved ofi*. On the ice, we left numerous
relics of our winter's sojourn— the accumulation of
many strange materials, which may, perhaps, have
been borne to other distant regions, to record our
visit to the Polar Sea, and testify that civiUzed man
had been a resident there. One could not but view
these objects with mingled feelings, associated as they
were with many interesting incidents of the past j they
contrasted in a marked degree with the purity of that
element on which they were then being borne away.
Though we greatly rejoiced at our early deUver-
ance, we could not indulge in the hope of making
much northerly advance for some time. No water
could be seen in the pack, except that extending for
some distance along either shore; on the eastern side
it was observed extending as far to the northward as
Point Armstrong, into which we could easily have got,
although the wind was at the time light ; but it was

ded once
ing, that
had then
south-east
a breath

ae of our
thes, then
time to
vo others,
on board,
numerous
ulation of
aps, have
ecord our
ized man
but view
3d as they
)astj they
ty of that
me away.
J deUver-
f making
N^o water
iding for
item side
biward as
have got,
it it was

DRIFTING IN THE PACK. 355

considered more judicious to aUow the ship to drift in
the loose ice-for what reason, I and many others
were a a loss to discover. In the remainder of thL and
the following day, we were drifted alternately to

nating, unhl we agam approached the Princess Royal
I^nds, when we became beset by a heavy piece'of

quarter Our best efforts, until midnight were
requ-d to free us from this troublesom'e visl^
obhgmg us to cast off from our floe, to aUow it rnc^
space to pass on its northerly course. On the 16th

to and fro, under the influence of wind and tide ; but

^rs:r ^^^ ""'' ''- -^^'^ *^ -y W

On the 17th we were drifted to within 600 yaxJs

i-ed we could no^l^d:.;^:^^^
T^JT^""' the most serious appreheS

w runt' " "" ^""""^ '^^^^ '^ *^^ «-th.
ward, until our course was arrested about a mile

c^ tant from its southern extreme. A few ho..s

afterwards we were again carried in the same dL!

^ou^d th Tf '' ^"^"^^ ^^^^^- P-PetuaUy
abound these islands, now so celebrated in the'histoi^

ot om- voyage-under existing cin3umstances T
closer acquaintance with which would hatbeen fa:

A A 2

35G

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Il|i|

II I

irom desirable. It was, therefore, deterniined to take
advantage of a lane of open water, which extended for
a short distance to the southward, and with a fair
wind to make sail, and run as far clear of the danger
which threatened us, as possible. For this purpose,
we were at last obliged to part from our old and
faithful icy friend, which had borne us in safety
through so many trying scenes and perils.

Accordingly, at 11 a.m., we cast off from it, and
the joyful pipe of " All hands make sail," was heard
for the first time for the last ten months. Right
cheerfully was it responded to, and we soon saw with
delight our old ship once more under canvt.ss, making
the best of her way through loose ice, backing and
filling alternately, to clear numerous opposing obsta-
cles until 1 P.M., when our further progress became so
impeded, that we were obliged to secure the ship to a
large floe, and continued drifting again as before.

Our position at this time differed but little from
that in which we were so helplessly placed at the
close of the previous season, with one important
difference— the navigable season was now commencing,
whereas it was then drawing to a close. We were,
however, from day to day threatened by the same
dangers, calling for similar energy to avert, as I have
ab-eady described. The presence of strong north-
easterly winds had brought the old floe ice down
from the northward, and from its accumulation about
us, the ship's further progress to the southward, had

SHIP DRIFTING.

867

fro... some cause become arrested-perhap, the ice
pressmg through Dolphin a„d Union St™t t. the
westward had blocked up the outlet of the Strait.
We were „„ the 18th, in a position where the floe,
on e,ther side met about ten yards astern, forminK the
apex of a triangle in which we were placed with a
most formidable looking one ahead ; and in this
awkward situation we were drifted to and fro-the ice
gnndrng and crushing against us-no' knowing the
rSir '•'^""'•"^^ "■'«•''='-»'• *f our

Ear^y on the morning of the 19th, tne colossal floe
to which we were attached, became rent in five
dififeren. places-owing to the pressure from others in
proxunity-which obliged us at once to cast off, and
by means of ice anchoi. haul the ship into a sort of
dock, formed by an indentation in its edge This
w,« not accomplished without considemble labour
being forced to have recourse to the saws, to remove
some obstructing pieces that lay in our way. On
the 20th wo were enabled to make sail for a couple
of mdes through an open space of water which led
vs to he northward of the islands, and reached the
euge of a large floe, into an indentation in which
the sh.p was warped and again secured. The ice
was evidently then less obstructed in its southerly
progress, as we saw it during the day setting rapidly
down m that direction, and a considerable space of
open water was observed to the northward on the

358

1 ii

ii'

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

evening of the 21st, continuous with that on the
eastern shore of which I have before spoken. It was,
therefore, quite tantaUzing to view such an open-
ing, without being able to reach it, in which we
would then have been, had we entered that off
the eastern shore, when first liberated. Our position
had again become so critical, that a repetition of
the measures necessary for a sudden abandonment of
the ship was very properly adopted. The floe, on
the outer edge of which we were secured, had from
the effects of pressure become completely turned
round, so as to place us between it and the shore, and
we found ourselves distant from the latter not more
than 600 yards, so that any pressure acting on its
distant edge must have brought us in still closer
proximity, i( not thrown us at once on the beach, as
we lay within the influence of the slightest exercise
of its power. Thus threatened by ice on one hand
and the shore on the other, we were rejoiced towards
the close of day, when a slight change taking place
enabled us to escape from our position and warp into
one of greater safety. Up to this period, we had
never lost sight of our winter floe since we parted
company, the dark objects on its summit rendering it
easily recognized; but its goodly proportions were
much altered, it having been nipped in twain by
pressure— consequently oui' timely departure from it
afforded good grounds for congratulation.

On the 23rd, we were still closely beset, when

lii

CRITICAL POSITION.

369

towards evemng the huge floe to whioh we were
attached took the ground, from the effects of the
• concussion and by its own weight it was in an instant
split into two parts, which rendered our situation dan-
gerous .n the extreme. We remained attached to the
fragment that had grounded, but observing the danger
w.th which we were threatened by the approach of
«he other, no time was lost in disengaging oui^elves.
We had barely succeeded, when that which was in
motion came up, and owing to the light air then
present, struck the ship quietly astern, and gave her a
httle headway There was at this time no opposing
obstacle immediately ahead, otherwise she woidd have
been inevitably nipped. The ice then began to open
about us most wonderfully, which enabled us to warp
clear of danger, and as the water increased, the boats
were lowered to tow for the fii^t time that season. A
fresh breeze soon afterwards springing up, enabled us
to make sad. clear all opposing difficulties, and at mid-
night we had reached the long desired open water We
found oursehes. as we hoped, for ever clear of the is-
lands, which from their central position in the Stmit,
act an important part, not only in influencing the dis-
position of the ice, but in increasing the dangers which
surround a ship when helplessly beset driftLig in the
pack. The day was, to us, one of marked Providential
goodness, we having escaped almost miraculously
from impending dangers, and been U,me into our
long wished for haven, with appearances auspicious for

mmmmmm

mmmmmmmmmm

wmmmmmmmmm

360

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

our northerly advance. The temperature of air ranged
from 40° to 52°, that of water from 32^ to 36° ;
specific gravity 1014.

On the morning of the 24th, the water enabled us
to get close up to Point Armstrong, as far as we
could then advance. Driftwood having been observed
strewn in abundance along the beach, in the vicinity
of this part of the coast, a boat was sent with the
carpenter to procure some of it, and soon returned
heavily laden; several pieces of which had such a
fresh appearance that Mr. Ford supposed it could not
have been more than a few years from its native
forest. The view from the mast-head revealed to us,
the ice still unbroken and attached to either shore —
the Point with its projecting spit apparently presenting
an obstacle to its setting to the southward — and we
continued tacking off the pack-edge, enveloped in a
dense fog for the greater part of the day. Our diffi-
culties were at this t'"ne considerably increased, and
our movements embarrassed by the great ever-varying
state of the compasses.

On the 25th, the ice closed on us from the south-
ward, when we were again beset, and sustained some
trifling pressure, but nothing to cause any serious
apprehension. Our progress was then again depend-
ing on the chances of the drift, and we were gratified
to find on the following day, the 26th, that it had
carried us to the northward of this dreaded Point
Armstrong, which then bore south-east. In the evening

BXPERIMENTS BY BLASTING. 361

there we observed on it a fine herd of Reindeer whose
f ~ '"•P-^" » ve.y novel and pleasing flSe
to the dreary sohtude of the land. oL distance, and
the mtervenfon of loose ice, precluded the possiMity
ot their becoming oar prey, much and ardently as we

tt: J'- ?\*'^ '''"' ^' •"«» Irifteds'f""

we hT7r1: '''' *' '^''"'* "^-^ ■-» '" "-. -ver

Tut si.- ° ^ '"" °^"- ^^ "^ "^-^ *•"- -'»%.
but steadily borne onward towards the outlet of the

Strait we anxiously calculated the chances there then

existed of our effecting a passage through thcm-thu!

-hzing aU our long cherished hopi The wLd

from the southward stiU continuing, packed the ice

heavily to the northward, where no ^pen water cLu

yet be seen As we knew not how soon an oppor.

unity would occur when gunpowder might aid or

facilitate our advance. Captain M'Clure resolved to test

Its efficacy on a floe of last year's ice, about four feet

thick then in our immediate vicinity. A hole was

accordingly bored until the water was reached, and a

small cask containing forty-seven pounds of powder

was placed beneath the floe, and ignited by means of

Pickfords fuse. The explosion which took place

eleven minutes after the fuse was ignited, caused the

ejection of a cloud of b^iken ice and water to an

elevation of eighty or one hundred feet in the air

produced an opening in the ice twenty-five feet in

diameter, from whence fissures radiated in different

directions from sixty to two hundred feet This ex

■^^

362

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

■: tm

m:, ■

periment may be taken as a fair instance of the effects
of a given charge of gunpowder on ice of a certain
character under the most favorable circumstances.
The shock of the explosion was felt on board, which
caused our bells to ring merrily, without a pull.

The steadiness of our northerly drift, left no doubt
of our being under the influence of currents in addi-
tion to that of wind and tide, which quite antagonized
the power of the latter on its return, and prevented our
being carried with it to the southward. An opposite
effect, however, was experienced on the western side
of the Strait.

On the 30th, we were subject to pressure of various
degrees of force. The floe to which we were attached
was rent in several pieces and packed, burying beneath
it the anchors, which required considerable labour
in recovering. At one time, the ice was in great
commotion, setting with the tide to the northward
at the rate of two knots an hour, bearing us witji
it ; the loose pieces packing and crumbling on each
other at times as high as our quarter-boats ; but,
owing to its altered character — still undergoing the
process of thaw — and being generally loose, we passed
harmlessly through it all. The ominous sounds of
conflict forcibly reminded us of last winter's ad-
ventures ; but how changed was the sound, now
comparatively subdued and soft, when contrasted with
the hard, loud, grinding noise which fell so mourn-
fully on the ear during that eventful period of our

INCIDENTS.

363

'panderings. Ab we approached Point Lady Roes I
observed the escarpment of the land become genendly
more abrupt, with dark veins of horizontal stratifica-
t.on, similar to the dark clay and shale formation of
the coal measures, as observed elsewhere on this land
to the southward. The coast line was much inter-
sected by numerous deep gorges, forming the beds of
the mountmn torrents during the season of thaw.

Ihe tide on the evening of the 30th, set the ice
^mn m motion as before, and with simUar results.
We were astonished to see, in the height of its com-
motion a little Fox crossing the Strait dose to the ship
bounding most adroitly over the masses of crumbling
ice which came in its path; and we had the satis!
taction of seeing him reach the shore in safety We
were also favoured with the sight of two Musk
Oxen wandering slowly over the land at different
periods of the day; but there was no possibility of
our making an effort to reach them, otherwise any risk
would have been cheerfully encountered for the sake
of procuring such a prize. There was something
^tnkmgty grand and novel in the sight of these
formidable-looking creatures roaming leisurely alon»
proud monarchs of these dreary solitudes

The month which had just then closed, we considered
to have been highly favourable to oiu- prospects, not-
withstanding what we had already encountered The
temperature had never fallen below freezing point
having ranged from 32» to 52", with a daily mean of

w^^gmm^mi^

364

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

37° 54', That of sea-water was from 31° to 36°,
but varied much in density at different times from
1.004 to 1.021 — which may be attributable to tem-
perature and the tides, bringing up water of a more
saline character at certain periods. Strong winds very
generally prevailed, and gales were frequent, alter-
nating with considerable regularity from north-east
to south-west, with a mean force of 3.0. Rain fell
occasionally in light showers, and heavy fogs were
often present.

Another month came, the second August, we had
spent within the Arctic Circle, the only one that
may be said to intervene between summer and the
commencement of winter ; and on our progress would
then depend whether another winter was to be spent
in these regions. That August, and the beginning of
September are the best for navigating, or rather
attempting to navigate the Polar Sea, there can exist
no doubt, as it is a fact long established by experience ;
and I need not call to the remembrance of my ship-
mates, the fond hopes which were then entertained of
the great things we expected to achieve before the
return of another month.

The wind still blew fresh from south-west, and we
continued drifting in the midst of a chaotic mass of
densely packed ice ; this, at times, would slacken a
little, so as to enable us to warp for a few yards ; and
on the 1st, we were able, by this means, to advance
upwards of a mile ; this, with our drift, gave us, at

HEAVY RAIN.

365

° to 36°,
mes from
3 to tem-
of a more
rmds very
jnt, alter-
north-east
Rain fell
fogs were

:, we had
one that ■•
r and the
3SS would
) be spent
;inning of
or rather
I can exist
tperience ;
my ship-
rtained of
>efore the

it, and we
ic mass of
slacken a
irds ; and
3 advance
ive us, at

least, SIX miles of northing, which we thought a fine
day's progress. We had also increased our distance
from the shore, as well as from a shoal, that extended
out for some way from a low point ^ a nearer ae-
quamtance with which we were most anxious to avoid.
The 2nd, was the anniversary of the day when we
first encountered the ice— what experience of the
element we had gained in twelve months these
pages will amply testify ; for there was no form or
aspect, which it was possible for it to assume, that we
had not seen, and hitherto successfully encountered.
" The day was remarkable, also, from our having had
the heaviest fall of rain since crossing the circle, or,
mdeed, I may say, since we passed the Line, as it' fell
almost uninterruptedly during the fore-noon, and at
frequent intervals afterwards. It was gladly wel-
comed, as we knew it would have a good disinte-
gratmg* effect on the ice, in addition to its general
refreshing influence. Towards evening the wind
changed to the northward, when it became clear, cold,
and breezy ; but for the remainder of the day, we
failed to observe any change in the state of the' ice,
though we expected to see it open with this favourable
change of wind. An effort was made to reach a floe
about fifty yards a-head, by forcing the ship through
loose ice, witii the aid of canvas and warping; but
after several hours exertion we failed to move her an
inch. We were again tantalized by the sight of a
Musk Ox, and a herd of eight Reindeer on the land,

I I

s It ,-

366

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

which we supposed were those formerly seen on Point
Armstrong, that had followed us along the coast —
indeed, some of our people went so far as to say, that
they could recognise a stately old Buck, that had
formerly ati,racted their particular attention as the
patriarch of the herd. These animals are always seen
grazing — the extreme scantiness of the pasturage,
does not allow of their wasting much time in a state
of repose.

Our advance for the next few days was very
trifling; nothing occurred to cheer our hopes. Our
patience was severely tested, as we anxiously watched
our landmarks, to indicate the slightest movement in
the ice or ship ; and our eyes in vain wandered over
the interminable, glistening field to the northward, for
the least appearance of its opening out to favour our
onward progress.

On the 5th, the wind changed to south-west, but
towards evening became variable, and ultimately set-
tled into its old quarter, north-east. Our landmarks
then told us that we had drifted a little to the south-
ward ; and as the ice became more open, and a few
pools of water here and there discernible, we knew
not how much further altered might become its aspect
before the lapse of another four-and-twenty hours.
On the following day, open water was seen along the
eastern shore, which we could not reach — of what
depth, it was impossible to say — otherwise there was
nothing but ice to be seen to the northward.

EFFECTS OF BLASTING.

367

On the 7th, a strong south-westerly wind blew
alternating with partial calms and variables. It wa^
remarkable that at one period of the day, 11 a.m the
lower stratum of air blew from the north, when the
vane at the mast-head denoted a fresh south-wester
whde almost midway in the maintop, it was perfectly
calm. The north-easterly wind, however, ultimately
prevailed, it evidently being the colder of the two.

In the morning, we had at first drifted to the west-
ward near the centre of the Strait, but were again
borne a little to the north-eaat. In the afternoon, the
' ship was warped after much toil through some pieces
of heavy ice, which had separated sufficiently to allow
of our reaching a large floe piece about forty yards
distant, to which she was secured after eight hours'
exertion. In this short progress, however, we encoun-
tered numerous obstacles, one of which, withaprojecting
tongue beneath the surface of considerable extent,
impeded our advance, and obliged us to have recourse
to gunpowder for its destruction; this it completely
eflPected, so as to allow of its easy removal by poles.
It is in such cases that this powerful agent is of much
service in navigation, by destroying the barriers to a
ship's advance, where there is space sufficient to allow
of the fragments being removed out of the way after
the explosion.

We had long believed our northerly progress had
been much under the influence of currents, the
existence of which we had established from the

3dS

TAB NORTH-WEST PAB8A0B.

resoltof repeated obscr\itions ; and we found a current
leflang north from 20° lo 70° a^^t, at the rate of
nearl)' Lhj<;r: miles a day. On the c h, we hailed the
advent of spring tides as likely to effect much in our
favour, and relieve the tedious, wearisome state of
suspense in which we had so long existed. We trust
to their influence to take us clear of the Strait, as
we certainly increased our progress northward.
On the following day, the 9th, the northern extremes
of either shore could be distinctly seen from the
mast-head, and Investigator and Parry Sounds lay
before us, could we only overcome the barrier that
intervened. The season of perpetual daylight was
thus leaving us, the sun ceased to be visible at 10.30
above the western hills, but with an ice horizon his
setting, would of course, have been considerably later,
near midnight. The weather at this time was
delightfully clear and serene, and we were favoured
with many very beautiful refractive phenomena from
time to time. They tended to relieve, in some degree,
a painful state of suspense and inactivity, as we gladly
seized on anything that could afford variety to the
surrounding aspect. That we were still slowly
drifting there could exist no doubt, as our daily
observations proved, having on the 10th found our-
selves in lat. 73° 10' N., long. 115° 53' W. from
whence the high land above Point Russell could be
discerned, \6. towards which our eyes were ever
eagerly beiii, i mr tumds dwelt on the pleasing

POSITION OP THE Sn/P.

8C9

thought of soon passing to the northward of this
extreme; nil manifested a like anxiety for the
attornment of this much desired object.

On the 11th. we found, at noon, that we liad drifted
mile in the previous twenty-four hours, and we ob-
served < hat the ice had opened out considerably to tt
southward, out not in our immediate vicinity It be
2ogenerallyloose, andin the event of a fresh breeze,
would we hoped, open out a good space of sea.
This, however did not come; and our position on the
fo lowmg day brought with it no change, except a slight
ncrease to our northerly drift. Some of {he ultra-
sangmne amongst us, fancied that they could discern
Melville Island from the crow's-nest; but, in con-
sequence of che distance, this was considered by no
means probable. The highly refractive state of the
atmosphere, for the few previous days might, how-
ever, from its action on vapour in that direction
iiave given it an appearance of land. This famed
ocality was a subject of such frequent conversation,
thaUt became easy for a vivid fancy to pourtray its

On the 13th, the wind still continued from the
nr.rt^ .east, with the ice everywhere around us. appa-
rently loose, and more in motion than it had been for
some days. A large expanse of water could be
seen to the southward, extending along the eastern
shore a considerable way northward of our position
lo reach it would then have been a g.^oat object.

B B

370

TH£ NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

but the state of the ice did not permit our making
the attempt with the certainty of success. As ap-
pearances justified our expectations, that the water
would soon make up to the ship, our prospects looked
brighter than they had done for some days. A heavy
fog setting in towards evening enveloped us in its
chilling mantle, and prevented further observation
of the changes then going on. We still continued
slowly drifting ; at this time we could observe young
ice forming nightly in the pools of water on the floe.
Towards noon on the 14th, the fog having cleared
away, we found ourselves in lat. 73° 14' 19" N., long.
115° 32' 30" W.— the highest position we were
destined to attain, about half a mile distant from
open water, loose sailing ice intervening, with a light
air from the north-east. The rudder was at once
shipped, we cast ofi" from the floe, made all plain sail,
by the aid of which, together with warping, we
reached the iu-shore water in a couple of hours. We
continued our advance tacking between the pack and
the shore, in soundings varying from fifty to three
and a half fathoms, until about 5 p.m., when the fog
again made its appearance, adding as it ever does to
the difficulties and danger of ice navigation. At 9 p.m.
it had become so dense that we could diiscem objects
but a very short way from the ship. The land had
ceased to be visible, and heavy floe ice setting down
occasionally arrested our progress ; and coming heavily
in contact with it, we sustained some severe shocks.

A STRANGE COINCIDENCE. 37]

Notwithstanding the difficulties by which we were
thus surrounded, we stiU continued under weigh un-
willing to lose any chance that might favour' our
onward progress, until 11 p.m., when off Point Lady
Ross on the in-shore tack, the ship suddenly shot
from no soundings at twenty fathoms, into three and
thi-ee-quarters at the next cast of the lead, and the fog
at the moment clearing oflP a little, displayed to oi^
astonished vision the barren, but lofty land about
this point of coast, only distant seventy yards We
immediately tacked, but while the ship was in stays
she struck on a shoal, stirring up the mud plentifully
about us. The headsails were at once backed and filled
—the ship hung in the balance for a moment— in the
next she floated, and we had the pleasure of seeing
her again standing off the shore through a thick fog
towards the ice. In consequence of the heavy floe
ice closmg rapidly on us, and curtailing om- limits for
working the ship, the fog at the same time increasing
we secured her to a large floe for the night. The
wind at this time freshened considerably, and night
dosed in dark, cheerless, and foggy. Our touching
the ground on this day was a remarkable coincidence
this being the anniversary of that eventful day in'
August, the previous year, v^hen a similar occurrence
took place, though widely different in degree, entailing
as It did, the loss of a large quantity of provisions.

The land on this part of the coast rose to the height
of 400 or 500 feet, inclining from the beach at an

B B 2

h ' 1

I ^

;

372

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

angle of about 25°. It presented a formidable front,
and formed a ridge striking in appearance from a
few pyramidal shaped mounds studded on its top.
They were isolated, and from twenty to thirty feet in
height; similar in form to others I had observed
on the coast of America.*

The land here presented an aspect of barrenness
I have seldom seen surpassed. Not a blade even
of the stunted grass or dwarfish Plora, or the slightest
trace of vegetation, could anyvv'here be discovered.
Dark boulders studded the escarpment and were strewn
on its summit ; and the tortuous beds of water-courses,
without one drop of the limpid element, here and there
intersected a land which appeared one uniform mass of
sand and mud, as if recently upheaved from the bed
of the ocean.

Previous to our casting oflF from the floe in the
morning, another experiment was made to test the
eflFects of gunpowder on a floe, of the average thick-

* Sir John Richardson met with these conical, barrow- shaped
hills on the coast of America, at Copland Hutchinson Inlet,
but on low ground, and thinks " they are remnants of the sand
formation which covers the shale so extensively along the coasts
of the Mackenzie River, and that they have received their
conical form from the washing of high tides during the occa-
sional inundation of the low lands by the sea." — Boat Voyage
through Ruperfs Land,

These, though at a much greater elevation, may, perhaps, have
been formed from a similar cause during the upheaval of this
land at a remote period. — Author.

STATE OF THE ICE.

873

lable front,
ce from a
m its top.
irty feet in
d observed

barrenness
alade even
le slightest
discovered,
vere strewn
ter-courses,
e and there
rm mass of
tn the bed

ioe in the
;o test the
[•age thick-

irrow-shaped
xinson Inlet,
I of the sand
ig the coasts
jceived their
ng the occa-
Boat Voyage

)erhaps, have
eaval of this

ness of 12 feet, and about 500 yards in diameter.
A cask containing 36 pounds of powder ^.as placed
beneath it, near its centre by the usual process ; this, on
explodmg, rent it extensively, and it became completely
broken up. As we left it, we had the satisfaction of
seemg the fragments floating about in various directions
From the result of this experiment we inferred that
larger charges might be made available when a ship
IS closely pressed by ice, to lessen the danger of her
Oi mg nipped or otherwise injured.

The weather on the 15th stiU continued foggy,
partially clearing off at intervals, with a strong north-
easterly breeze, which set the heavy floes drifting
down on us from the northward. The report from
the mast-head was not cheering. No water could be
seen in that direction ; but a narrow lane still extended
for some distance along the eastern shore. In conse-
quence of our position, and the heavy character of the
floes m our vicinity, it was determined to take ad-
vantage of some open water and loose ice, to run
farther off shore towards the centre of the pack; lest
a cliange of wind might cause the latter, by closing to
throw us on the beach. At 9 a.m. we cast off, made
sail to the south-west ; and having obtained the best
position we could in the centre of the Strait, secured
to a large floe, shortened and furled sails ; previous to
which, and when in the act of wearing ship, the
spanker-boom was carried away, with a terrific crash ;
tortuiiately, no casualties occurred. The wind had

374

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

then freshened to the force of a gale, which did not
in any great degree dissipate the fog in which we
were enshrouded ; and, surrounded by heavy ice, we
drifted for the remainder of the day to the south-west
at the rate of a mile and a half an hour. This position
was not a pleasant one ; and our prospects then were
certainly not bright, considering we could not see
more than sixty or seventy yards around. As even-
ing closed in, wild and gloomy to a degree, there was
not much room to indulge in hope for what the
following day might reveal.* However, we did hope,
and prepared to await, with what patience we could
command, for a favourable change, depressing as
was the reflection that we were then rapidly losing
all that we had gained at so much risk and labour
during the previous. ten days.

DEPARTURE FROM THE STRAIT.

375

ch did not
which we
wy ice, we
south-west
lis position
then were
d not see
As even-
there was
what the
did hope,
! we could
ressing as
dly losing
nd labour

CHAPTER XV.

Departure from Prince of Wales' Strait-Chances of passing
through It— Course to the Southward- Round Nelson's Head
—Course to the Northward— Character of Coast— Islands
discovered, and Incidents— Alter Course to E.N.E.— Prospects
■—Land and Ice— Progress arrested— Dangerous Position-
Aspect of Land— Discovery of Wood Hills— Recent and
Fossilized Wood-Its Character-Petrifactions-Presence of
Iron and Sulphur— Woody Stratification— Bark and Wood
discovered in other localities-Geological Causes-Original
Character of the Land— Inferences deduced from the Disco-
very-Critical Position of the Ship-A Bear Shot-Habits
of these Animals— Esquimaux mode of killing them.

At a veiy early hour on the morning of the 16th
of August, the fog having partially cleared away, open
water was discovered close to our position, the floes
having separated considerably during the few previous
hours. The ship was immediately warped through
broken up, loose ice, when we made sail, and con-
tmued working north by east and north-west alter-
nately, against a strong breeze from the north-east,
endeavouring to hold our position, or regain a

mtmmmnmimmm

I ^

376

THE NORTU-WEST PASSAGE.

^ little of what we had lost on the previous day. At
1) A.M., the report of the Ice mate from the crow's-
nest, was not favourable. Although the water in
which we then floated extended for a considerable
distance, the Strait to the northward was still blocked
up. It appeared that as fast as the ice cleared to the
southward, a fresh supply was poured in from the
inexhaustible icy sea to the north. This report
was fully confirmed by Captain IVrClure making a
personal survey of it from aloft ; indeed we all satisfied
ourselves on this point, by an examination at various
degrees of elevation up the rigging. Under these
circumstances, and in consideration of the advanced
period of the season, the length of time which we
had been kept in endeavouring to get to the north-
ward, even for a short distance, from the insur-
mountable barrier hitherto opposed to our onward
ptogress, and from the probability there existed
of our being foiled in eflFecting a passage through the
Strait, — perhaps, thrown back to winter in our former
position— we reluctantly came to the determination to
relinquish, for the present, any further attempt to
reach the Strait of Barrow through that of Prince of
Wales.

Could we have ensured the certainty of being
drifted through in the pack, so as to get within the •
influence of the easterly currents setting through
Barrow's Strait and Lancaster Sound, any amount of
risk would have been encountered ; but the occur-

reiice
probabl

CHANCE OP MAKING THE PASSAGE. 377

of such an event at this time was far from
le, and the passage through the Strait

Prince

"y r.'t' '" " "PP'™ '" ""=■ <^"» 0% be accom-
phshed by a combination of the most favourable eir-
cumstances, such as are seldom met with in the Polar
bea. At an advanced period of the season, however,
when the ,ce has weU cleared out of Parrv Sound
and Barrow-s Strait, to afford sufficient space for that
on their southern shores, and in the Prince of Wales'
Strait to be drifted to the northward, under the in-
liuence of strong southerly winds, I believe a ship
may be carried through by the same agency; and
once getting within the influence of the strong
eastoriy currents, and escaping the dangers insepar
aole from the probability of being beset in the pack
which might not perhaps occur, she must be carried
mto Lancaster Sound and Baffin's Bay-and thus, a
North-Wcst Passage would be made through the
btrait of Prince of Wales which we aban.loned

While we codd not but regret the circumstances
which led to this decision, we were consoled by the
reflection, that if enabled to follow the projected
course, we should not only be increasing the field of
search to a greater degree, but might have, likewise
an equal or better chance of reaching Barrow's Strait'
and thus making the Passage from the westward. '
We, therefore, took advantage of the fresh and fair
wmd, and open water, to run at once to the south.

imm

878

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

ward, and accordingly bore up about 9.30 a.m.,* to
endeavour, if possible, to run along the south coast
of Baring Island round Nelson's Head, in the hope
of finding open water along its western shores, and
follow wherever it might lead.

We soon cleared the loose ice, when we saw
nothing but open water extending from shore to shore,
and as far as the eye could reach to the southward ;
the western shore in some situations, presented a
narrow icy line ; but, elsewhere, scarcely a trace of it
could be discerned.

At 10.50 the Princess Royal Islands, which we
had hoped never again to see, were observed to W.S.W.
and at 11.15 Point Armstrong was rounded. We
were then approaching those well known localities
familiar to every one on board, to which our eyes
had been so often and anxiously bent during days of
danger and nights of darkness. How different were
our feelings as we sped gaily along, through a large

* As we were about to bear up, two ravens made their appear-
ance. Some thought they were our visitors of the winter — they
continued for some time ominously hovering over and about the
ship, describing circles in their flight, and uttering their harsh,
discordant croak, which did not, in any degree, tend to produce
comfortable feelings amongst the more superstitious portion of
our crew, their presence being considered an ill omen; and
in our subsequent days of adversity, the event was often
alluded to as a proof that we should not have abandoned the
Strait of Prince of Wales.

II mH

CL£AE THE STRAIT.

379

expanse of water, with every stitch of canvas set to
a fine, fresh and fair breeze, compared with a period
St, 1 n^cent, when we were either immoveably beset,
helplessly dnftmg, or boring „„r way inch b^
.nch through a heavy ice pack that h'd entirdy
disappeared. This change, the most sanguine
amongst us could not have hoped for, much' less

eW , but such is the ever varying aspect this
element assumes when once in motion, that it is
unpossible to predict its changes, or foi^tell what a
few hours may bring forth. At 4 p.m. we passed the
southern exbeme of the inlands, and bade a final
adieu to all the femed localities of our winter
adventures, then rapidly fading from our view.
For the remamder of the day we continued to
progress under the most favourable circumstances;
scarcely any ice was to be seen-the Strait being evii
den ly clearer of it than when first we entered it nearly
twelve months before. Evening eame, and the sun took

h« departure with every indication of a continuance
of fine weather.

fl,»*L* *;"■."" f™%™™i"g the 17th, we cleared
he Strait, doubled its western extreme and again
found ourselves off the south coast of Baring Island
in an apparently open sea. with a fresh breeze from
»uth.east, a heavy sweU coming from the same
quarter, and a narrow line of ice visible far to
the southward. Nothing could have been more
auspicious than the appearances which eveiywhere

380

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

:;■ ';

met the eye ; there was no impediment whatever to
our onward progress, and instead of being retarded
by the pack which we fully expected to have
encountered, with the exception I have mentioned
nothing could be seen but land and water — th( latter
much clearer of ice than at the close of the previous
season. We were agreeably surprised at the heavy
swell of the sea, setting from the south-east, as we
had met with nothing to equal it since entering
the Arctic circle. It far surpassed that of which I
have spoken when oflF this coast before; as may
readily be supposed from the fact of its breaking over
the forecastle on several occasions, and the ship at
times having an inclination of from ten to fifteen
degrees. Such a state of things, strange an-l
novel to us after so long a period of inactivity, and
our recent sailing in water surrounded by ice,
where it is ever smooth and unruffled, produced
most agreeable feehngs. These were associated in-
timately with our success, and we could scarcely
leave off gazing throughout the day on such a
cheering prospect, at the same time speculating
largely on the future.

At 11 P.M. Nelson's Head was rounded — the
distant point of Cape Lambton then broke upon
the view, surmounted by the lofty Durham heights
crowning this bold, imposing headland. This ap-
peared strangely grand and picturesque in the dim
twilight, as its turrets and buttresses stood out in

FAVORABLE PROSPECTS. 381

bold relief, lighted up here and there by the silvery
beams of a waning moon. We rapidly increased our
distance from this splendid headland which we were
never to see again. Several Whales were observed in the
course of the day going westward, and two Bears
were noticed leisurely swimming towards the distant
ice in the southward. This favourable state of aifairs
suffered no interruption on the morning of the 18th
—Cape Lambton was passed during the night the
wind still continued from the south-east ; an open sea
lay before us, no ice was to be seen, except a few odd
pieces scattered along the shore. The heavy mist
which hung over the western horizon, told us that
the enemy lay in that direction, but we failed to
discover it until noon, when its grim outline became
visible. We continued rapidly to run along this new
line of coast, at a distance from two to three miles
m water varying from thirty-six to forty-five fathoms '
examining it with the aid of our telescopes, to discover
a trace of anything connected with the object of our
expedition. Towards noon our course was altered to
north-west, to enable us to round a low point of land
that lay directly in our way, and against which a
line of very heavy packed ice was grounded ; this
was subsequently named Point Kellett. At the
time that this was observed, the main pack could
be seen about three or four miles to the west-
ward, of a most formidable appearance. On reach-
ing the extremity of this low point, some distance

^ IVi'J|lj[

--,♦

382

THE NORTH-WEST PASSA.OE.

to seaward, we found that it formed the south-western
boundary of a most capacious harbour, beyond which
the land trended in a north-east direction. At 3.30,
when off its entrance, the Second Master was dis-
patched in the third whale boat to sound and examine
its eligibility for a winter harbour, should adverse fate
compel us to seek refuge within its precincts ; and
the ship was accordingly hove to for his return.
Advantage was also taken of the circumstance, to
leave a record of our visit sealed in a bottle, properly
secured in a cask, and placed on the beach, where it
formed quite a prominent object.

On the return of the boat in the course of an hour,
it was reported that the depth of water was five
fathoms uniformly throughout, carrying this depth
very close to the shore ; this was, of course, satis-
factory intelligence. In the event of our being
compelled to retrace our steps along the coast, it
would have proved a safe harbour.

We then made sail, with a few heavy masses of loose
ice floating in our vicinity; but soon got clear of them
into smooth water— the pack to seaward being less
distant than when first we sighted it. Our soundings
then varied from seven to four fathoms, and had been
decreasing since rounding the point. We kept as
close to the shore as was consistent with safety, and
examined it as accurately as a distance varying from
one to two miles enabled us.
The character of the coast, from Cape Lambton to

OHAEACTm OP LAND.

383

Point KeUett-as well as I could judge from the
distance whence I viewed it-appears identical with
that described in Franklin Bay, and extends nearly in a
straight line for miles continuously. The escarjjment
composed apparently of sand and loam, was abrupt
nearly precipitous, from 80 to 100 feet high'
from the summit of which the land extended back-
wards m a fine level plain, with apparently good
pasturage : at the termination of this, successive
ranges of fine lofty hills, extending into the interior
formed the background. The escarpment was in some
places quite unmarked, in others, it presented the
appearance of being formed of a series of pyramids
placed m juxta position at their base, the space'
between which and their summits, was quite filled up
by sedimentary deposit, and the whole surmounted
by a level soil, which, with the cliffs, were doubt-
less frozen, as we elsewhere observed. The con-
tinuity of the coast hne was in a few places inter-
rupted by slight indentations, forming shallow bays
into which streams from the higher lands emptied
themselves ; one of these appeared of considerable
size, and discoloured the water for some distance to
seaward. Driftwood was likewise observed along the
shore, and two pieces were seen floating past the ship
from the northward.

After leaving Point Kellett, the land became
entirely altered in character and appearance, c) sely
resembhng that of the coast of North America, to

384

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the westward of Cape Bathurst, and ran out into
numerous low points, some of which, doubtless in
process of formation, were so little elevated above the
water level, that they could merely be traced by the
appearance of a dark line. Between them there were
deep indentations, forming large crescentic shaped
bays, but which, no doubt, were very shallow, as evi-
denced by our soundings some distance off shore.
Several mounds and conical shaped hills similar in
appearance to those 1 have elsewhere alluded to, were
plentifully scattered along the coast, and formed a
pleasing feature to its general tameness and uniformity.
The land apparently aflPorded good pasturage for the
animals which frequent it, which appeared to consist of
Reindeer, Hares, Foxes, Ducks, and Geese ; several of
which we saw throughout the day — the latter in great
abundance. We witnessed an interesting combat
between a Fox and Snow-Goose, and concluded the
latter was the victor, from the advantage which
flight gave it over its enemy, who sought the hills,
the other darting with great impetuosity, and making
furious onslaughts on him from time to time to
complete his victory.

Thus we sped onward for the remainder of the
day," rounding point after point. That of " Meek"
was passed where the progress of our Consort
'Enterprise' was arrested some three weeks sub-
sequently, when endeavouring to follow us along this
coast, and from whence she was obliged to retrace

CHARACTER OF COAST.

385

her steps to the Strait of Prince of Wales, where she
wintered.

Throughout the night (if I may so call it) our
progress continued uninten-uptedly good ; and the
mornmg of the 19th dawned on us auspiciously.
Ihe weather was fine, the wind continued steadily
trom the same quarter, enabling us still to follow our
north-east course, an open sea lay before us, with here
and there small streams of loose ice floating off to
the pack-the latter about half a mile to seaward
and some two or three from the land, appeared to
have been but very recently set offshore, to which it
would, doubtless, return on a change of wind. Our
object, therefore, was to make the most of these
favourable circumstances. As early as 4 a m an
island was observed to the northward on our port-
bow, and we continued our course between it and the
land-the latter still presenting the low pointed
character of the previous day. Towards noon, after
roundmg a projecting point of coast, we crossed the
entrance of a wide and deep bay, (to which the name
of Burnett was bestowed). At its termination, the
con muity of the coast hne appeared to be inter-
rupted for a few miles, and a barrier of ice could be
seen extendmg across ; but we were unable to verify
the fact as to whether an inlet, or as some supposed
a strait, existed, or otherwise. My own opinion was in
the negative ; for the ice could not be traced from
the mast-head any distance into the interior, and I

c c

386

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

hill

have no doubt, it was nothing more than light-grounded
ice thrown up by refraction; besides which, neither
deep inlets nor straits are found on this kind of coast.
The probability of their occurrence appears remote
when we consider the process of formation — shallow
bays and low points being features which, I may say,
universally predominate.

At 8 A.M. a second island was observed in a line
with the first, which we had then passed. We
bestowed on one the name of * Norway,' while the
other received that of ' Robilliard.' This we reached
at noon, and in running between it and the shore,
the soundings which had before been from six to
seven fathoms, suddenly shoaled to two and a
half, and brought us within six inches of the
ground. This we must have touched, as the mud
was stirred up, rendenng the water quite discoloured,
with pieces of ice around both floating and grounded.
We immediately shortened sail and letting go the bower
anchor, despatched the third whaler with the second
Master (Mr. Court) to sound. Kedge anchors were
laid out to windward, and we warped the ship
again over the ground, whence we had previously
come, until the return of the whale boat told us that
the water outside our position was sufficiently deep to
allow us to continue our course, without going outside
the island; we were thus spared several hours
further labour at the capstan, which had been cheer-
fully manned by all hands. As we advanced, island

LAND AND ICE.

grounded
b, neither
I of coast.
1*8 remote
— shallow
may say,

in a line
jsed. We
while the
e reached
the shore,
m six to
and a
} of the
the mud
scoloured,
grounded,
the bower
lie second
lors were
the ship
jreviously
Id us that
y deep to
ig outside
al hours
sen cheer-
sd, island

387

after island followed each other in a continuous chain
several miles of water intervening, and between them
and the coast our course still lay. The pack approached
more closely-we were at times sailing through streams
Gt loose ice. continuous with its edge. This appeared
of a stupendous character, and no doubt could exist
of our being on the margin of the great Polar pack,
while apprehensions were entertained that our progress
would soon be arrested, from its increasing proximity
The land still continued of the same aspect-the
islands not differing from that of the neighbouring
coast, were for the most part from one mHe to
half a mUe m length, varying in elevation from forty
to ninety feet, which they attained in the centre-
m other respects they are of the usual brown Arctic
character. We thus continued at a good speed
apparently aided by other influences in addition to
the hght breeze which still favoured us ; but whether
tide or current could not then be accurately ascertained.
At noon our position was found to be in lat 73° 56'
23" N. long. 123° 62' 20" V/.

As evening advanced, the ice of a veiy heavy char-
acter graduaUy closed on the shore, and the last point
was seen in the distance, to the northward ; beyond
this nothing but ice could be discerned from the
mast-head, following the course of the land, which
from this point trended away to the east-north-
east. Off its extremity were two small islands
the termination of the chain of outworks along the

c cj 2

[ *

3S8

THE NOIITII-WEST I'ASSAOE.

coast, completing the seventh in number. On the
outermost, the ice was packed to the height of forty
feet — evidence of the tremendous pressure caused by
the prevalence of westerly and north-westerly winds.
This remarkable turning point was subsequently
named Prince Alfred's Cape, in honour of His Royal
Highness Prince Alfred; and to the island was
given the name of ' Gore ' — one of the brave Frank-
lin's gallant companions.

We were most anxious then, as to what might be
revealed on the northern shore of this, the last of the
points : whether our progress was to be arrested
by the great Polar pack that lay before us, or should
find space sufficient to lead us into the arm of this
ice-bound sea, is continuous with the Strait of
Barrow, and which some of us firmly believed to be
the entrance.

The goal was at length reached, the Cape rounded,
and our course altered to E.N.E. To our great dehght
a space of open water, some 700 to 800 yards wide,
extended along its shores as far as the eye could
reach, with heavy masses of loose ice streaming off to
the pack edge, which appeared of a most formidable
character. That it had but recently set oflF shore by
the south-easterly winds, which for the previous
few days had so signally favoured us was evident.
Nothing but ice could then be discovered to the
northward of our position. When off this Cape, the
depth of water was 7^ fathoms, but as our enti.3

ALTERED ASPECT OF LAND.

389

enti.:

dependence was on the lead line, which had hitherto
done us such good service, -and as we had had
frequent experience of the rapidity with which the
water along these coasts shoaled, a boat was dis-
patched with the Second Master to sound, before we
proceeded further : the ship was hove to, untH his
return, when to our great joy he made the precon-
certed signal that we might follow him in safety. All
sail was again made, and we had no sooner fairly
rounded this point of coast, than the water suddenly
deepened to 15, and then 30 fathoms; presently we
could obtain no bottom at 65 fathoms. So different
was this from the previous two days, that it appeared
as if we had suddenly come within the sphere of some
new and strange influence. We could not but remark,
at the same time, how altered had become the aspect
of the land, not only in the increasing boldness of its
features, but likewise in its irregularity of outline—
hill after hill rising above each other, with the usual
intervening gorges, ravines, and water courses, and
the now familiar pyramidal shaped mounds peering
on their summits, with aU the wildness, bleakness,
and sterility, which stamped its character as truly
Arctic ; in short, worthy of what we considered it to
be— the north-western extreme of land bounding the
trackless icy ocean at this part of the globe.

The ice, also, had become altered in character-
much heavier, with ntiaierous masses deserving the
name of bergs, grounded la-shore ; and as the soundings

390

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

had increased considerably, we could not feel other-
wise than convinced, that we had got into water
which would lead us to Melville Island. This opinion
was so much strengthened by circumstances — the
trending of the land, the deepening of the water and
the existence of a strong current setting to the
eastward — that no doubt remained in our minds of
the fact. This conviction led us for a time to indulge
in hopes too sanguine to be then expressed, lest our
progress might be soon arrested.

For the remainder of the evening, we continued to
run along the land, which became bolder and more
lofty as we advanced ; the coast in some places deeply
indented, forming a few harbours, apparently deep,
and capable of affording shelter to ships. One of
them, some eighteen or twenty miles to the eastward
of the Cape, was sheltered by a sort of breakwater
facing the north ; doubtless, formed by the pressure of
the ice— from which it may be inferred, that the water
inside was not very deep, and that an entrance existed
at either ^nd, due east and west. Another was ob-
served of a crescentic shape, to the westward of the
preceding, the entrance of which was on the west
side. Time was too valuable, and our position too
critical to admit of the delay necessary for a more
satisfactory examination of them.

It appeared as if it were then the height of the
season in this latitude, from the great number of its
only inhabitants we saw in the course of the day.

INCIDENTS.

391

sel othcr-
to water
3 opinion
ces — the
ater and

to the
ninds of
> indulge

lest our

inued to
nd more
IS deeply
ly deep,

One of
eastward
jakwater
assure of
lie water
3 existed
was ob-
i of the
he west
tion too

a more

t of the
er of its
he day.

No less than ten Bears were observed, three of thera
roaming about on tiie land, the remainder on the ice-
strong evidence of their abundance. Reindeers were
seen on the island, and the largest Seals, quite colossal
in size, basking in the sunshine on the ice ; but watchful
withal, of the advance of their inveterate foe-the
bear. Vast numbers of Geese and Ducks were
likewise seen; the former including the Brent and
Snow-Geese ; the latter, the Common, King Eider,
and Long-tailed Ducks.

The weather had quite a summer character, tem-
perature from 43° to 51°, and the water from 29° to
30°, increased in density on rounding the Cape from
1,013 to 1,018.

During the night the space of open water

gradually lessened in extent, but was sufficiently deep

to enable us to approach within a few yards of the

beach. So close were we at some places, that the

quarter boats were obliged to be topped up, and

poles used, to keep the ship from the ice grounded ou

shore; nor could we safely have rounded the ship

had we felt so disposed— and that our progress was

likely to be soon arrested, there could exist but little

doubt. The bed of a large river was observed on the

coast, off the entrance to which we sounded in

eleven fathoms ; and two Bears were seen sleeping on

the shore in its vicinity, overcome, doubtless, by the

lethargic sleep of repletion after a Seal feast.

At 5 A.M., on the morning of the 20th, the wind

392

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

changed to W.S.W., bringing with it fog and light
rain. The ice closed on the shore, rendering it
impossible to make any further advance ; as far as
we could see, it was heavily packed along the coast to
the northward, of the same heavy floe character, and
trended to the eastward. The ship was at once
secured to a massive piece of ice— grounded in twelve
fathoms of water, about twenty feet higher, and not
more than seventy yards from a beach of mud and
shingle— with the land rising almost precipitously
above it, to the height of from two to three hundred
feet in a range of hills, which formed the sea front of
others still more elevated, in the interior. We took
up this post from the protection it would afford us,
figainst the pressure of the stupendous pack outside,
then setting to the eastward at the estimated rate of
a mile an hour.

It is needless to dwell on the dangerous position
we then occupied, for any sudden change of wind
to that quarter — north-west, Avhence it generally
blew— by setting the ice on shore, must inevitably
have worked our destruction, by throwing us on the
beach; in this unenviable situation, we could only
await the course of events, and hope for an early
deliverance. Critical as it was, however, it was
to us novel, from the fact of its afl'ording greater
facility for reaching the shore than we had ever ex-
perienced since leaving England ; and we accordingly
prepared to take every advantage it offered.

md light
ering it
3 far as
coast to
!ter, and
at once
n twelve
and not
lud and
pitously
hundred
front of
Ve took
Pord us,
outside,
rate of

position
)f wind
enerally
Bvitably
on the
Id only
n early
it was
greater
ver ex-
rdingly

AN EXCURSION.

398

A tide pole was in the first instance erected
close to the shore, and after the delay of a few
hours when fully satisfied no change in the ice
was hkely to take place to favour our advance, a
considerable number of officers and men landed, in
the hope of obtaining fresh suppHes-Hares and
l^tarmigan having been seen close to us on the land
Orders were given that a gun should be fired
rom the ship as a signal of recall, in the event of
there being the least appearance of the ice setting ofi^
shore On ascending the hills in our immediate
neighbourhood, I found the land of the uFual Arctic
character, but much higher than any we had hitherto
seen ; lofty ranges of hills gradually rising as we
advanced, occasionally with sides almost precipitous
with deep intervening gorges and ravines, through
which the dry beds of the mountain torrents ran. Some
of tiiese were of considerable extent, their impetuosity
m the season of their activity, was evidenced in the
occuiTence of landslips frequently in their course.
All the streams appeared to empty themselves into a
■ valley of some extent running from the beach into
the interior. In the spring a continuous sheet of
water covers it, reaching to the shore, where it expands
into a delta, and empties its contents by several
mouths into the sea, about 800 yards to the eastward
ot our position. In this manner is the land drained of
Its water and snow during the season of thaw. With
<l.c exception of this valley and a few smaller ones

394

THK NORTH-WEST PASSAOK.

ii = I

tlierc was but little level ground to be seen. The
soil was composed of sand and loam — in the course of
the river beds there was much alluvial deposit, and
here the greatest amount of vegetation was met with ;
but the surface of the land elsewhere, on the summits
of the highest hills, was entirely covered with shingle,
water-worn pebbles and stones of considerable size —
but few of them deserving the name of boulders —
in no respect differing except in magnitude from the
mounds of sand and shingle formed on the beach by
the pressure of the ice ; they appeared as if they had
but recently emerged from the sea. The pasturage
in the more sheltered situations, particularly those with
a southerly aspect, was, comparatively speaking,
abundant for the animals which frequent those
regions ; abounding in stunted grasses, mosses and
fungi ; and I have no hesitation in pronouncing this
land, wild and sterile as it was in aspect, to be as
luxuriant in vegetation in these situations, as any other
I had seen since leaving the coast of America. It
was, however, wonderful and strikingly grand to view
those immense hills rising abruptly froru the margins
of the river beds, denuded as they were of the
slightest verdant covering, which contrasted strangely
with the little verdure at their base. On their sides,
numerous pieces of what appeared driftwood were
strewn, some light, others from two to three feet in
length, and six or seven in diameter. Several had their
ends protruding, and on my attempting to pull them

A STRANGK DISCOVERY.

396

The

out T failed in doing so ; conveying tlie idea of their
being deeply imbedded in the soil; this I determined
on the earhest opportunity to ascertain by excavation.
Several small streams werq observed issuing from
the interior, depositing, in their course, on the stones
over which they flowed, a combination of iron and
sulphur ; the water having in excess all the astringent
taste peculiar to the former, with the unmistakeable
odour of the latter combined with hydrogen. Several
Hares, Ptarmigan and a few Plover were shot • the
tracks and .emains of Reindeer were numerous, their
antle^ were strewn about in considerable abundance;
two Wolves were seen devoiu-ing the remains of one
and were fired at. They fled, and could not be again
approached.

On our return to the ship, we found that some of
the party who had gone more to the westward, including
Messrs Piers and Sainsbuiy, had arrived, bringing
with them several specimens of petrified wood, and
reportmg the existence of other wood on hills of
considerable elevation, in a state similar to pieces
we had seen elsewhere further inland. The petri-
factions consisted of pieces of the branches of trees
from SIX to twelve inches in length, and from one
to four inches in circumference, of metaUic weight
and hardness, from which a metallic sound was
elicited when struck; this appeared to me to result
trora its impregnation with iron in the form of brown
haematite and from some siliceous product of the soil.

396

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

We at once resolved to visit the spot, and in
the evening, I accompanied Capl,ain M'Clurc and a
small party in the third whale boat along the shore
towards the place. I feel my inability to describe or
convey a truthful idea of the bleakness, wildness,
or desolate grandeur that met the eye on land-
ing upon the part of the coast which led us to
the desired locality. Prom the beach, a narrow
vale extended tortuously into the interior, through a
series of hills, rising range after range from COO to 700
feet in elevation, unmarked by the slightest trace of
vegetation. Their abrupt, nearly precipitous escarp-
ments separated from each other by deep and
tortuous gorges, presented nothing to the view but
sand and shingle ; affording a picture of wild deso-
lation and solitary grandeur, apparently matchless,
and to be seen only in the distant regions of the Pole.
On ascending one of these hills, about a quarter
of a mile from the beach, on its side, about 300
feet high from the sea level, we discovered
the wood of which we were in search. The ends
of trunks and branches of trees were seen pro-
truding through the rich loamy soil in which they
were embedded. On excavating to some extent,
we found the entire till a ligneous formation,
being composed of the trunks and branches of trees ;
some of them dark and softened, in a state of semi-
carbonization. Others were quite fresh, the woody
structure perfect, but hard and deiist^. In a few

FOSSILIZED WOOD.

397

S'tuations, the wood, from its flatness and tlie pressure
to which it had for ages been exposed, presented a
laminated structure, with traces of coal. The trunk
or'one tree, the end of which protruded, was 26
inches m diameter by 16 inches; that of another,
a portion of wliich was brought on board, was 7 feet
in length, and 3 feet in circumference; and dense
in structiu-c, although pronounced then to be pine *
Other pieces, although still preserving the woody
structure, had a specific gravity exceeding that of
water, in which they readily sunk, from their having
undergone an incipient stage of impregnation with
some of the earthy products of the soil. Numerous
pme cones, and a few acorns wero also found in the same
state of silicification. The tnm.is apparently exter Jed
a considerable distance into the iiitrrior of the hill,
and, were bituminous and fria , Many of those which

* A section of this piece of wood is to be seen in the Museum
of the Royal Dublin Society, Dublin. To the obliging kindness
of Its able Director, (Dr. Carte.) I am indebted for a knowledge
of this fact ; who has also kindly informed me, that he submitted
It to the examination of Drs. Steele and Joseph Hooker, both of
whom pronounced it to be coniferous wood. The latter thought
It of the white pine species ; and one of the semi-fossilized cones
has been pronounced by Dr. Harvey. Professor of Botany
Trinity College. Dublin, to be similar to the present Spruce of
North America.

I may here also mention that there is a very interesting collec-
tion of Arctic costumes, travelling equipments, and objects of
Natural History, now in the British Museum ; presented by
John Banow, Esq. F.R.S., Admiralty.

" '

398

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

were embedded, crumbled away on being struck with
a pickaxe, which readily found its way into any part
of them, rendering their removal impossible; some
of them were in such a state of carbonization as to
approach lignite in character. The whole conveyed
the idea of the hill being entirely composed of wood.
As far as our excavations were carried, nothing
else was met with, except the loamy soil in which
they were embedded ; but the decay of the wood in
some places appeared to form its own soil. The
petrifactions, with numerous pieces of wood were found
strewn everywhere over the surface of this and many
of the contiguous hills. Many specimens of these
were obtained, varying from one to fourteen inches in
length, the longest not exceeding five or six in cir-
cumference ; they consisted of portions of the branches
of trees. Some ol them were impregnated with iron
(brown hsematite), had a distinct metallic tinkle when
struck, and were heavier than other pieces, without
the metallic impregnation or sound ; they were simply
silicified, the sand entering into the composition of
the soil being siUceous or quartzose. Several smaller
pieces of fresh wood were also found strewn about, which
had not been, perhaps, subject to the petrifying in-
fluence of the water. The numerous small rills which
issued from the interior, similar to those I had seen
in the morning, flowed over the surface, and the con-
stituents of the water largely impregnated, as it was
with iron and sulphur, indicated from whence the

WOOD HILLS.

399

metallic agency in the petrifaction was derived ; this
also possessed a dull yellowish-brown discolouration
of the sulphur, and the stones everywhere over which
the water flowed were coated with the same.

On several of the neighbouring hills I observed
distinct stratifications of wood running horizontally
m a circular course, formed by the protrusion of the
ends of the trunks of trees, to some of which the
bark stiU adhered ; and large pieces of this, cropping out
and hanging loosely, frequently led in other situations
to our detection of the wood to which the bark adhered
in the soil. Any attempt to remove these with the hand
or other slight means failed ; and excavation ever
established the fact that the hills were entirely com-
posed of wood-the appearances met with, being
Identical with those first mentioned. On subsequent
occasions, when exploring the land several miles in
the interior, observation led me to infer that a pre-
cisely similar state of things there existed. The situ-
ation in which our first excavation was made was in
lat. 74° 27' N., long. 122° 32' 15" W., and about
a quarter of a mUe from the beach. The distance,
mland, whence similar appearances were observed, em^
braced a circuit from eight to ten miles in diameter.

This discovery of wood in a recent and petrified
state in a part of the worid where we could have had
no expectation of finding it, in regions whose blighting
climate is opposed to the nurture of vegetable life,
a.s evidenced in its scanty verdure, stunted Flora, and

400

THE NOUTH-WEST PASSAGE.

creeping dwarf-willow, its only iirborescent produc-
tion, could not hut impart a feature of great interesi.
to our voyage, and was a subject for geological research
no less interesting than strange. Similar appear-
ances, observed elsewhere, bear so striking an analogy
to this singular discovery as to invest it with still
greater interest, an;l I cannot forbear alluding to them
here. In the explorations of the Ustiansk Expe-
dition, under Lieut. Anjou, in 1821-23, on the South
Coast of New Siberia, and in about the same latitude
as that of our discovery in Baring Island, " wood
bills " were discovered composed of trunks of trees,
some ten inches in diameter, not very hard, of a black
colour, bituminous and friable.*

Hendenstrom observes : — " On the southern coast
of New Siberia, are found the remarkable Wood Hills.
They are 30 fathoms high, and consist of horizontal
strata of sandstone, alternating with stra'.a of bitu-
minous beams or trunks of trees. On ascending these
hills, fossilized charcoal is everywhere met with,
covered apparently with ashes, but on closer exami-
nation, this ash is also found to be a petrifaction, and
so hard, that it can hardly be scraped off with a knife.
On the summit, another curiosity is found, namely, a
long row of beams, resembling the former, but fixed
perpendicularly in the sandstone. The ends, which
project from seven to ten inches, are, for the greater

* Fide " Appendix to Baron Wraugell's Voyage," translated
by Major-Gcnorul Sabini;.

FOSSILIZED WOOD,

401

part, broken. The whole has the appearance of a
ruinous dike." Lieutenant Anjou, who likewise
examined these Wood HiUs, says : " They are merely
a steep decKvity, twenty fathoms high, extending
about five wersts along the coast. In this bank, which
IS exposed to the sea, beams or trunks of trees are
tound, generally in a horizontal position, but with
great irregularity, fifty or more of them together the
largest being about ten inches in diameter The
wood IS not very hard, is friable, has a black colour
and a slight glcP. When laid on the fire it does not
burn with a fl ..., but glimmers, and emits a resinous
odour.

I have also observed in one of the Parliamentarv
131ue Books,* that a travelling party from H
; Resolute,' when at Melville Island, on their return
journey after exploring Prince Patrick's Island in
1854, discovered the trunks of trees embedded in a
white sandy soil, on the same meridian as that of
those discovered by us, but two degrees further north
One was four feet in circumference and thirty feet
long, and another two feet ten inches in diameter •
with several parts of similar trees just showing above
the soil. Thus establishing a fact no less important
than mteresting, that throughout the wide extent of
the Polar Sea, as far as observation has enabled us to
determine, there existed at one period various and

* Published by Order of the House of Commons, 1855.

D D

402

TlIK NORTH-WEST I'ASSAGE.

luxuriant forms of arborescent growtli, in regions
where nothing is now to be seen but desolate lands
and ti'ackless ice wastes.

The facts thus rendered incontrovertiWe, lead us to
but one conclusion, that, lands probably of much
greater extent, different in physical character, covered
with forests, and with a cHmate more elevated in
temperature, preceded the upheaval of those now in
existence, from the bed of the ocean. Hence the great
accumulation of wood and coal beneath the surface, in
various stages of organic change— metallized, carbon-
ized, and silicificd, resulting from one of those remote
and inscrutable terrestial convulsions associated with
the great secondary era of geological formation in the
creation of the world. The former lands having been
for ages submerged, were upheaved above the sur-
face of the ocean by some powerful submarine volcanic
agency, and enveloped in the shingly bed of the sea ;
they were again elevated to the surface, and from the
igneous and chemical products of this action, have
resulted the changes I have narrated.

Nor is it in the frigid regions of the north alone,
that these wonderful terrestrial, and climatorial
changes have taken place; for similar discoveries
have been made in the opposite hemisphere, amongst
the distant lands of the Southern Ocean. My friend,
Dr. M'^Cormick, Surgeon, Royal Navy— an officer
no less distinguished in Arctic than in Antarctic ex-
ploration and research — to whom I mentioned this

FOSSIL WOOD.

403

regions
lie lands

!nd us to
af much
, covered
vatcd in

now in
;he great
irface, in
, carbon -
e remote
ted with
m in the
ing been

the sur-
volcanic
the sea ;
From the
on, have

th alone,
iniatorial
scoveries
amongst
y friend,
1 officer
rctic ex-
[led this

discovery informed me that he had found a hke
state of thmgs in Kerguelen's Land, in the South
Pacific Ocean, when Surgeon and Naturalist of the
Expedition, consisting of Her Majesty's ships, 'Erebus'
and lerror, that remained in those seas from 1839
to 1843. As the circumstances seemed nearly identical
we found, on comparing the notes, each of us had
made at the time of our respective discoveries, that
there was not only a similarity of appearance
in these objects, but a perfect unity of opinion
expressed as to their origin. At my request, he
very kindly furnished me with the following par-
ticulars. ^

"Kerguelen's Land or Desolation Island, isolated
amid the vast southern ocean, in the 50th degree of
lat. and 70th of long, with a stormy and tempestuous
climate, is wholly destitute of arborescent forms of
vegetative life. The largest plant now existing on
Its surface is a species of the cabbage tribe, attaining
a li^ight of about two feet, and peculiar to the island
which IS of volcanic origin, rising from the sea in a
succession of horizontal terraces, constituted of basaltic
rocks passmg into the various modifications of green
stone, amygdaloid and porphyry, with occasional
protrusions of hills of phonolite. The whole aspect
of the land is wild and picturesque in the extreme
13old capes jut out along the coast, which is deeply
nidented by bays and inlets. Lakes diversify tlie
terraces, from which water-courses descend their steep

D D 2

m^ammmmmmm

I V I

404

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

escarpments in countless impetuous torrents and
beautiful cascades.

" The Fossil wood, I discovered on the south side of
Christmas Harbour, abundantly embeilded and scat-
tered over the surface of the debjris, at the base of a
huge block of basalt, 400 feet in thickness, which
rests upon a terrace 600 feet in height ; the whole
attaining an elevation of 1000 feet above the level of
the sea. The wood was highly silicified, very pon-
derous, its weather-worn surface of a greyish white
colour, but black as charcoal internally. Between the
block of basalt and the ridge, a thin bed of shale
interposed ; and in the debris beneath, at an elevation
of 600 feet, I dug out the trunk of a tree, seven
feet in circumference, completely silicified. In the
"Arched Rock," 150 feet in height, situated at the
entrance to the Bay, I found specimens enclosed in
the solid wall of basalt, having a twisted appearance,
more charred, and not so hard in texture. Near this,
in a curve of the bay, a seam of lignite, or wood coal,
four feet in thickness, and forty feet in length, crops
out from beneath a superincumbent ridge of basalt,
rising 500 feet above it. During a boat expedition in
which I was engaged, on a survey of the N.W.
coast of the island, I found a similar bed of coal — but
no wood — in Cumberland Bay, having the same dull
brownish black colour, and fissile fracture ; which
burnt well enough for the boat's crew to cook their
food with. In an adjacent hill, a bed of anthracite

CRITICAL POSITION OF THE SHIP. 405

crops out, glossy-black, light and friable. Both were
overlaid by amygdaloid and greenstone.

"The history of this island, inevitably, leads to the
conclusion, that a far more extensive land covered
with forests, preceded its upheaval from the deep.
Hence the great accumulation of wood and coal at
some epoch, when the climate was more favourable
for the growth of trees, thtui at the present time;
and, that these entombed ancient forests after having
been for ages submerged, again became elevated
above the waters of the ocean, through the agency of
some great submarine volcanic action, during which,
the lava streams have flowed over the beds of coa{
and enveloped the fragmentary trees, whose forms
have been preserved from the destructive effects of
the incandescent fluid by the superabundant siUca
that fossilized them. Thus, with the exception of the
character of the rocks of this island, and the absence
of metallizing agency in the soil, our discoveries
difFcred but little. In Kerguelen's Land there had
been more active volcanic agency, as evidenced in
tlie entire absence of all sedimentary rocks ; whereas
in Baring Island these rocks alone were found,
having been brought to the surface by a less intense
degree of volcanic action during their upheaval from
the deep."

After our return on board, and while narrating our
recent extraordinary discovery of the wood, the ohip's
safety was suddenly threatened by a commotion in

406

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the ice, which had been setting steadily to the east-
ward throughout the day, and now rendered our
situation one of extreme danger. A large floe having
come into contact with the very piece to which we
were secured, so tremendous was the pressure result-
ing, that the latter was driven from twelve fathoms
water, in which it was grounded, into eight ; and a
projecting tongue which extended under the ship's
bottom, lifted her out of the water six feet. It was
quite frightful to view the huge mass oscillating to
and fro, as if about to fall on and crush us to atoms,
as it was borne on its involuntary in-shore course.
Our safety entirely depended on remaining attached
to the piece, and on its integrity being maintained. It
warded ofi" the pressure from the ship, otherwise the
same power would have driven her on shore, had she
escaped being completely crushed by such irresistible
force. The result was, that the floe was rent in
pieces, and we were driven nearer the shore — our con-
nection being still maintained with the piece which
had so admirably withstood the attack — and we were
then left in a position even more critical than before, not
knowing the moment when the shock might be re-
peated, and our safety again threatened. We con-
sequently remained in a state of preparation, ready for
action at a moment's notice.

On the 21st, the ice still continued to drift to the
eastward, but at a much slower rate than on the pre-
vious day. It was everywhere closely packed, and

THE POIiAR BEAR.

407

afforded appalling evidence of tremendous pressure in
the huge masses that were piled together, and
forced up along the shore.

The weather had become cold and raw, with a
south-easterly wind, fog, sleet, and occasional squalls,
which did not improve the general aspect around.
We observed a rise and fall of 6^ inches in the
tide, and found a considerable quantity of drift-
wood marking its line on the beach, some of which
had been borne up for a considerable distance, from
the effects of pressure.

In the evening a Bear was observed coming
leisurely towards us, along the shore from the west-
ward. As he would evidently come within range of our
guns from the ship, preparations were made to receive
him, by a few of us taking up a position on the fore-
castle; while Messrs. Piers and Sainsbury were
landed on the beach, to await his approach, under
cover of the mounds of shingle, and cut off his retreat
in the event of his escaping our guns. He ap-
proached within sixty yards, when his curiosity being
excited by the appearance of the tide pole a few feet
from the beach, he stepped into the water, and was
proceeding to make an examination. The shore party
fired, the first shot struck him, he staggered, made
an attempt to run, when we poured in our fire from
the ship, and at once brought him down before
he regained the beach. Bruin proved to be a young
she Bear, with a remarkably fine white fur, and a

408

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

h: V,

I ;ii

depth of blubber upwards of two inches ; but not a
trace of food was in his stomach, which was quite
flaccid, containing only a little frothy secretion.

Frequent allusion having already been made to
these animals, a few additional particiUars regarding
them may not be unacceptable. The Polar Bear
{Ursus Maritimus) is one of the largest, as it is likewise
the most formidable inhabitant of the north, and is
found in the highest latitudes yet attained by man.
It is generally met with roaming over the ice, or
sauntering along the shores of the Polar Sea in the
pursuit of Seals which constitute its principal and
favourite food ; and frequents localities where water
is likely to appear early— the presence of the latter
ever ensuring that of the former—consequently they
are more abundantly found in straits, or deep inlets,
rather than in the confined precincts of bays. They
are seldom seen inland ; a party of our men, however,
on one occasion pursued one, which they met about a
mile in the interior, making towards the sea. The
average weight of a full grown bear is about
eight cwt., it is usually from eight to nine feet in
length, and about four feet in height ; but several
have been killed of larger dimensions. With res-
pect to their migratory and hybernating habits,
much difFerence of opinion exists. I can only state,
as the result of our experience, and that of other Polar
Expeditions, that they were frequently shot during
the winter, and were constant visitors in latitude

HABITS OP THE BEAR.

409

7/ and 74° N.-this is a strong proof against their
nngrating to the southward on the approach of
winter, or, at least, against the universality of the
practice. This may, I bdieve, be much influenced by
the facihties of procuring food, or otherwise, as we
know that m inter-tropical latitudes t' o a3stivation of
animals is determined, not by the temperature," but
by the periods of drought, which effects their sus-
tenance ; hence, a supply of food may keep them from
hybematmg, and its want induce it. Those shot
during the winter, however, were all males— support-
ing an opinion generally entertained, that the gravid
female alone hybemates ; this she does beneath the
snow, at the close of the year, and issues forth in the
following spring, attended by one or two cubs, for
which she ever manifests the greatest maternal care
and solicitude.

The courage and ferocity of this animal have long
been held in great dread ; but experience proves that
these qualities are combined with a mixture of
cowardice, sagacity and timidity. We had repented
opportunities of meeting and pursuing him in his own
domain of Polar ice; when impelled by hunger or
irritated by a wound, an attack may be apprehended;
but a foariess advance appears to intimidate him!
Under oilier circumstances he manifested no dispo-
sition to attack. Numerous instances are on record
where Bears have feariessly approached a sledge party
—with what intention it is difficult to say, whether

410

TUE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

"i*

from instinctive curiosity, or other less friendly
motives — the parties not waiting to ascertain the
resiiH, iis the incautious- intruder generally forfeited
his life by his temerity. During our late searching
operf\tions, on several occasions one has actually
introduced his head into the tent when the party were
asleep ; others have eaten articles oif the sledge out-
side ; but in all my personal encounters with them,
I have for the most part found it difficult to get them
within range of my gun. The flesh of the Bear wc
have eaten — it is coarse, oily, and I may say almost
tasteless — whatever it does possess of flavour is not
agreeable, and to hungry men only could such diet
have been acceptable.

The Esquimaux in their pursuit of the Bear, fre-
quently imitate the motions of the Seal, by laying
flat on the ice, until he approaches sufficiently near
to ensure a good uim ; but a gun is necessary to
practice this stratagem with success. Another mode
of capture which they adopt, is worthy of narration, no
less from its simplicity in practice than the originality
and ingenuity of the contrivance ; this is by taking
advantage of their well known voracity, as they
generally swallow their prey without much mastication,
when not too large to pass their gullet, and the natives
being w^ithout fire-arms, would otherwise encounter
great risk in attacking them. A thick and strong
piece of whalebone about four inches broad and two
feet long, is rolled up into a small compass and care-

ESQUIMAUX STRATAGEM.

411

friendly
tain the
forfeited
earching

actually
irty were
!(lge out-
th them,
get them
Bear w l
y almost
ir is not
ucL diet

Jear, fre-
Y laying
itly near
issary to
ler mode
ation, no
•iginality
^ taking
as they
stication,
e natives
Qcounter
d strong
and two
nd care-

fully enveloped in blubber, forming a round ball It
IS then placed in the open air at a low temperature,
where it soon becomes hard and frozen. The natives
armed with their knives, bows and arrows, together with
this frozen bait, proceed in quest of Bruin. As soon
as the animal is seen, one of the hunters deliberately
"discharges an arrow at it; the monP^.r smarting from
this unprovoked insult, pursues he paiiy then in fuU
retreat, until meeting with the re on bli.)ber, drop-
ped in his path, he swallows it and o-;utinues the
pursuit— doubtless fancying that there must be more
where that came from. The effects of the chase
and the natural heat of the body cause the blubber
to thaw, when the whalebone thus freed, springs
back, producing great mischief, and obliging the beast
to discontinue the pursuit— he falls down helpless
wnthmg in agony, and his existence is soon ter-
minated.*

if ((

Seeman's Voyage of the * Herald.' "

412

THE N0PTH-WE8T PASSAGE.

CHAPTER XVI.

Weather and Prospects— Lakes— Fish— A Musk-Ox Hunt anJ
Incidents— State of the Ice— Traces of Esquimaux— The
29th of August — Perilous Position and Miraculous Escape —
Incidents— Position on the 30th— Blasting Ice— Preparations
for Winter— Collecting Ballast— A Jerfalcon Shot— Black
Fox seen— Bears — State of the Ice — Sudden Disruption —
Drifted off from the Shore — Beset in the Pack— Operations
for our Release— Blasting —Critical Situation— Our Escape-
Reach the Shore— Ship's Safety again threatened— State of
Ice— Operations by Blasting and Results— Open Water-
Incidents — State of Ice.

There was no change in our position on the 22nd.
The weather remained the same. The land presented
a very bleak aspect from the recent snow and sleet,
having bestowed on it its wintry garb. The ice was
stationary, irom which we inferred it had encountered
some obstacle to its advance further to the eastward ;
and the temper-ture of air ranged from 32° to 36°;
that of sea-water 28° to 30°, which I found to have a
density of 1017.

We continued our explorations daily into the into-

FRESHWATER LAKES.

413

nor of the land, and were generally rewarded by
bringing on board a few Ptarmigan or an occasional
Hare. On one occasion, we discovered two fresh-
water lakes, about 1^ miles inland from the ship, of a
basin-like shape, about 300 yards wide, with rather
precipitous sides, some ten or twenty feet high. The
water contained in either was fresh and pure, which
froze in one, when the temperature of air fell to 32°,
but not until it had fallen 10° lower did ice form )n
the surface of the other. This appeared a strange
anomaly, as I found there was no material difference
m their relative temperature— barely one degree— and
none, as far as I could ascertain, in the constituents
of the water ; nor did they communicate with each
other. That which was frozen was about ten feet
higher above the level of the sea than the other, and
had one fathom less water, its depths being five, and
the thickness of its ice was double that of the lower
lake. Previous to the ice forming on their surface
we hauled the seine, and procured in the last frozen
lake three trout, each about one pound in weight,
and a few smaller ones, but found none in the other.
There were also brought up in the net a few vegetable
polyps, some round, others nodulated from one to
two inches in diameter, composed of a tough gela-
tmou'j substance, enclosed in a strong membranous
capsule, and of a dark green colour ; but otherwise
possessed of no particular interest beyond the fact of
their being found here. The sea along this shore

414

THB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

seemed nearly destitute of animal life ; and, notwith-
standing repeated efforts at dredging wherever there
was a space of open water, I could only procure
a few specimens.

On the 25th, the ice had separated a little from the
shore, but not to a greater extent than would allow of
the passage of a boat for about a mile, and that only
with diiRculty ; so that there was but little alteration in
our prospects. The usual number of hunters had gone
abroad, myself amongst the number, and ranged over
a great extent of country. I had separated from my
party, having been lucky in shooting a Hare ; and after
a long march with my trophy slung on my back, slowly
wended my way to the ship, rather fagged with the
day's exertion. As I approached the barren plain,
which is the great aqueduct for conveying the moun-
tain stream to the beach, and of which I have else-
where spoken, I espied at a great distance a small
dark object moving towards me ; this, with the aid
of my telescope, I discovered to be a Musk Ox. I
at once determined to encounter him single-handed,
made the necessary dispositions for attack, and gra-
dually approached with a view of driving him into a
gorge, where my chances of success might be much
greater. I liad already killed him in my own mind,
and was indulging in the exultation I should feel while
returning on board with such pleasing inteUigence
— our crew having been some time without fresh
meat — when, unfortunately, two of the Warrant

lilll

A MUSK OX HUNT.

415

officers joined me. I had got within seventy yards
of the animal, just at the entrance of tlie gorge,
where I expected to make him my prize, when, seeing
two men emerging from it, he suddenly turned, faced
and nished at full speed towards me. I stepped aside,
fired, wounded him in the hind-quarters, and brought
him on his haunches; then a ball from my second
barrel struck his impenetrable bony frontlet formed
by the expansion of the horns, and rebounded as if
from a plate of steel ; he turned and fled somewhat lame
from his wound, which bled rather profusely, and
before 1 could reload he was far out of range— but I
still followed him. A party of t r men, who met him,
instead of exercising a little strategic skill, very sailor-
like, gave chase for miles, but never could come up
with the then affrighted animal, and he was lost. The
.fatigue of hunting with a Hare on one's back, I
found by no means trifling, and I reached the ship
much exhausted.

A second Musk Ox was seen by another party,
and fired at by the Boatswain. While reloading his
gun, having put the powder in the barrel carelessly,
he placed the muzzle against his abdomen, and
searched for a ball. The powder exploded, burned
his clothes, and scorched him severely, to his extreme
alarm and that of Jiis companions, who discontinued
the chase to bring, as they supposed, a dying man on
hoard — he believing his last hour was at hand. Tliey
reached the ship in a most aff'righted state, and it was

416

TlIK NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I I ;

with difficulty ho could be persuaded that his wound
was not mortal ; from some incidents attending
which, great amusement was afterwards derived, it
being generally supposed that a marling-spike would
have been a better weapon in the hands of the boat-
swain. In this, however, we were mistaken, for, no
doubt hurt that his sporting qualifications should be
questioned, he afterwards became one of our most
active and successful hunters, when necessity com-
pelled us to make the most strenuous efforts in the
chase.

On the 27th, the weather assumed a more wintery
aspect, young ice had been for some days forming
on the small spaces of water along the shore, sug-
gesting a change of season, which in our position we
could not think of but with the most serious
apprehensions. Spring tides being then present, we
found there was a rise and fall of two feet six inches,
but no alteration in the ice nor any appearance of
motion. The young ice had attained a thickness of
two inches, and the temperature kept steadily
below freezing point; thus the navigation had ap-
parently been byought to a close.

Some of our sportsmen in the course of their
rambles reported that they had seen the remains of
an old Esquimaux encampment, and as we were
desirous of verifying the statement, I proceeded on
the 27th, accompanied by Mr. Sainsbury and the
Interpreter in search of the locality. The morning

ESQUIMAUX HEMAIN8.

417

was cold and raw with sleet and rain at intervals,
and after travelling about three miles along the shore
to the westward, reached the place; an examination of
which left no doubt of its having been a resort of
Esquimaux. We found two mounds of a circular
form a few yards apart, around each six heads of
Musk Oxen were embedded in the soil, which we
found frozen twelve inches beneath the surface
Numerous bones of Reindeer, Foxes and birds were
strewn about, much bleached from long exposure.
From this fact and others subsequently ascertained
we had conclusive proof of these people having
travelled round the entire coast of Baring Island; they
doubtless found from the experience of one or two
seasons that they could not exist on its shores, as
they had evidently hunted their way, and ultimately
retreated again to the southward. This circumstance
may be taken as conclusive evidence how little
available would be the best efforts of a party in
sustaining life for any length of time in this part of
the Polar Sea, if entirely depending on its resources,
and their own exertions.

The 29th of August was an eventful day in the
voyage of 'Investigator,' and nearly brought her
cruise to a tragic termination. The weather had
remained of the same gloomy aspect with strong
nortli.westerly winds, snow and sleet at intervals,
and temperature of air from 25° to 29% Stationary as
the ice had been during the previous week, it underwent

E E

ftty Q

418

TllK NORTH-WKST PASSAGE.

-=f,,h'

'#>

ft clmnfi;e no less wonderful timn hazardous, to us, at
8 A.M. on the 29th. It wm observed in motion to
the eastward, and ut 9, licav}' j)rcssurc came on the
berg to which we were attached, carrieil it from its
grounded position conij)letcly round, iiiul raised it
some twenty-five feet out of water; preseiitiiig a most
friglitful aspect, overhanging the ship nearly m iiigh
as tiiO fore-yard. We wt-re fearful lost a continimiicc
of the same fore would throw it entirely over, N^hcn
we must have l)08ii inevitui^iy crushed to pieces
on the instant. J'c.tnTiiitt ly, however, onr suspense
did not long continue; the floe split, and the berg
giving one or two appalling rolls, bore us with it
into deeper water, and into the midst of heavy ice in
the wildest commotion — both were driven onward
with the moving masses, the berg being then afloat
and incapable of resisting further pressure. To
prevent the ship from being driven on shore, our
entire reliance lay in maintaining unimpaired our
connection with the berg; this was still further
strengthened by one nine inch, three six and two
five inch halsers, and a stream chain, two of which
were passed round it and secured. In this state we
were still born=3 onward, about eighty yards from the
shore, the ship sustaining heavy pressure particularly
at stern and rudder — the latter was seriously damaged.
Numerous large masses were sunk beneath the ship
in the frightf|jl melee in which we were ongaged,
when about 1 p.m. i'. temporarily subsided. She

CRITICAL POSITION.

419

then lay perfectly cradled in the ice, huge masses of
It having been forced under her keel, which raised her
three feet at the bow, and upwards of five feet at the
stern. Masses of flinty hardness still pressing
heavily on the port side, banked us up between them
and the berg, which threw the ship over several
degrees; and thus in utter helplessness we awaited
the next movement. Tn the mean time, the state of
the rudder demanded our attention— it was already
seriously damaged, and its safety still further jeo-
pardized by the heavy blocks of ice that surrounded
It. To unship it was then our object, but from the
ice having got under and around it, so as to com-
plctely block it up, this became a matter of extreme
difficulty. Some of the ice was removed by pickaxe
and ice chisels, but it was ultimately found necessary to
have recourse to gunpowder for clearing away *the
remainder ; and blasting under the stern was then
commenced. After some hours work, we succeeded
in extricating the rudder ; this ponderous, unwieldly
imi)lement was placed on the ice, and the carpenters
conmienced the necessary repairs. *

The next object that attracted our attention, was a
grounded berg piece, as large as that to which we
were attached, lying directly in our course astern.
Against this, on the next movement of the ice we
should immeiliately have been borne, and inevitable
destruction would have attended our coming into
contact. Consequently, to weaken, or if possible break

E E 2

420

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

up this great mass of ice, became a matter of great
import ; and preparations were made for blasting it,
although it was then only a few yards from the ship,
A charge of twenty-six pounds of powder was placed
deep in its substance ; on exploding, we were afforded
the satisfaction of seeing it fissured directly across,
while several of its fragments were thrown on the
deck. Some smaller charges were then used with
similar resiUts, and although the mass remained im-
movable as a rock, the little damage it had effected
rendered it, in our opinion, less formidable.

We continued to watch the ice with intense anxiety
throughout the day. A large floe of some miles in
extent appeared in motion, about a third of a mile to
seaward of our position ; doubtless, in a great degree,
the cause of the pressure to which we had been subject.
As the outward or seaward margin of this floe could
be discerned, the ridges of heavy ice, which were
packed along it, indicated the gigantic force at work.

At 8.30, the carpenter having repaired the rudder,
we were busily engaged in placing it in a safe
position slung across the stem, and had just suc-
ceeded in doing so, when the ice was again observed
in motion.

We lay not only helplessly fixed, but absolutely
embedded, borne along amidst the appalling com-
motion of huge masses grinding and crushing each
other, still Hearing the shore, and approaching the
berg, from which we were then not more than a few

IMMINENT DANGER.

421

feet distant. Every man stood firm and silent at his
post, with a knapsack at his side. The sick I had
ordered to be brought on deck, that in the event of the
ship being suddenly crushed, they, too, might have a
chance of escape. Nothing was heard but the dismal
sound of the ice around us. We slowly but steadily
approached the berg, against which our stem post at
length came in contact The pressure continuing,
every timber of the ship's solid framework loudly
complained, and we momentarily expected to see her
nipped in pieces, or thrown upon the beach. Most
fortunately, however, the destructive effect of the
blasting, so judiciously had recourse to a few hours
previously, then told in our favour; as the mass
opened in three places, their fragments separating
from each other, diminished the power of resistance,
otherwise our fate would have been at once decided.
At the moment of coming in contact, the continuance
of the pressure carried away the stream chain, broke
one nine, and two six inch halsers, as if they had
been whip-cord, stove in oar strong bulwarks,
crumpled up the copper as if it had been paper; at the
same time, it swept the ship's bow towards the beach,
elevated her a few feet, and threw her over on the
port side eighteen degrees. The direct force of the
pressure became thereby diminished, and when in
breathless anticipation of being driven on the beach,
that catastrophe was averted by the interposition of a
Merciful Providence. The motion in the ice then

422

THE N0RTF-WE8T PAPSAGE.

suddenly ceased, wc hr .u^; W." oorne helplcasly for
a short distance furi iicr nloug .ihore, in close contact
with the broken up hcrg.

At the moment the halsers were carried away,
Captain M'Clure gave orders to let them -^o, that
the ship might be thrown on the b^ach, to attord as
shelter during the winter, instead of being crushed,
and sunk, as we expected.

I can never forget the sensation I experienced
during the short period of this terrible conflict.
Every timber in the ship groaned in the most direful
and ominous language of complaint, the masts shook,
and as I stood on the quarter-deck, the planks
beneath my feet vibrated, as if in the act of starting
up. I put my hand on the capstan, about to
spring upon it for .>afety, when the pressure suddenly
ceased.

At the onset of the pressure, the captain's stcwad
happened to be in the cabin \^ lien the pressure was
most severely felt, and fancying the timbers were
coming about his ears, .olzed ihe rap aiii's knapsack,
rushed frantically on deck, where we all stood, he
apparently without the .>ower of utte ance, gaziiig
wildly around in utter amazement at the scene before
hna. Notwithstanding our situation, the mcu could
not suppress their merriment — Ut. ac' ted as the
occasion was to excite it — but I us ly I never
saw such a picture of terror as he then presented.
We found the ship had been carried from ten

ship's position.

423

fatiioiiis water into three and a half; but was no where
in contact with it, as she was still perfectly cradled in
the ice. In this state we remained, not knowing
what might happen in an instant. All hands were
ordered to keep their clothes on for the night, and
have knapsacks in readiness for any sudden
emergency. The evening, one of anxiety and watching,
closed in cold, wild, cheerless, and squally.*

On the morning of the 30th, ^'ere was no change
in our situation. The night waa passed in compa-
rative quietud' the ice being stationary ; the huge
masses, any forced high upon the beach, were piled
up between the ship and tl c; shore, fully testifying to
the extent of the pressure. The d;>y was occupied in
working tli'>ir 'destruction by blasting, by pickaxe and
all the usual ice implements, with a view of making a
good ' for the ship, in the probable event of her
being throwr i it ind likewise a road to the shore,
then not mo.« In sixty yards distant. The gun-
powder, in every cab. did its work well, in fissuriiif^

* I cannot forbear from alluding to the admirable manner in
whiel. the ship resisted the pressure u, which she was exposed,
which was entirely owing to the exc •]! it and scientific prin-
ciples on which she was strengthened s William M. Rice, Esq.,
the i)resent talented master-shipwright of Woolwich Dockyard,
by whose plan and under whose superintendei ce the 'Investig itor'
was fitted for Polar service. This gerrleman's name was fre-
quently mentioned wit' grateful feelings during our 'ong md
eventful voyage, wh. n our safety often depended on the
strength of our ship.

424

THE NORTH-WEST PA88AOE.

11 ' !

and bronking up these obstacles, so as to render their
reniovul a matter of easy accomplishment. The
charges varied from 2 to . 2 lbs. according to circum-
stances. Although gunpowder can never be consi-
dered an agent capable of effecting the advance of a
ship through an ice encumbered sea, unless to lead
into water wli re there is space enough for the frag-
ments to find their way, or be moved into ; yet
we found it very valuable in removing temporary
obstructions in the form of projecting tongues,
when our position was very much incommoded by
packed ice and in relieving pressure. It must,
therefore, be considered a most powerful auxiliary in
navigating icy seas, when judiciously used in
quantities sufficiently large to effort its object.
The blasting kept up an acceptable degree of excite-
ment throughout the day ; and the appearance of our
men on the ice, like so many engineers, sapping and
mining, presented a feature of some novelty.

The ice mate reported on the 31st, that a small
Space of water could be seen outside the floe already
mentioned ; this could not in any way serve us, as it
merely indicated the diminution of the pressure in
that locality.

The commencement of September told us that,
under the most favourable circumstancos, the season
for navigating an ice bound sea was drawing to a
close. It was not difficult to believe that ours had
passed, unless a recurrence of something similar

BALLAST IIKACH.

425

to what wc liad lately passed through, set us again
ill motion, and caused us to make a more inti-
mate acquaintance with the beach than was desir-
able. The first operation of a ship going into
winter quarters was now commenced, (as many
believed wo had then reached ours,) by making a
fire-hole, in doing which we had penetrated seven-
teen feet of closely packed ice before reaching the
water— the depth of the cradle in which the ship lay.
The weather contiimed cold and raw, with snow and
strong north-westerly winds. All the birds appeared
to have forsaken us, as we had seen none for some
days ; and with September, winter appeared to have
arrived. Our men were variously employed collecting
drift-wood along the beach, for the distance of a
couple of miles, accumulated in quantity sufficient
for a party travelling along the coast, but not
sojourning on it. Others were occupied collecting
stones from the neighbouring hills, and stacking them
on the beach for ballast, that, in the event of this
locality proving to be our winter quarters, they might
be made available for the following season. From
the fact of our having collected here fifty-five tons of
ballast, subsequently left behind, it was afterwards
known by the name of Ballast beach.

We still continued our shooting and exploring
expeditions with much eagerness, but trifling suc-
cess. A few Ptarmigan occasionally rewarded our
labours. A beautifid specimen of the Jerfalcon

426

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

t f

(Hierofalco Candicans) was shot on the 5th, when
flying over the ship; several were seen at the close
of this and subsequent seasons. They are a great
enemy of the Lemming (Mus Hudsonius) that were
abundantly met with on this land. On the yth, a
Bear, with two cubs, were observed from the ship, on
the ice, coming towards the shore ; after wandering
about on the floe for a short time sniffing the air in
their usual style, they sagaciously betook themselves
to flight, and spoiled our anticipated sport. A black
Fox was also seen by one of our men, on the land,
(the first of that species we had met with) but which
fled at the report of his gun, when firing at a small
pack of Ptarmigan. Another Bear was encountered
upwards of a mile inland, by two men, who wounded
him, and hastened nis journey to the beach, whence
he proceeded over the ice. This was the first instance
of this animal having been met inland.

The ice remained stationary until the 10th, when
a strong southerly wind set in, having movt 1 round
from the eastward, which caused the temperature to
rise from 25° to 39°— the sky cloudy and overcast
with passing showers of rain. These fovourable cir-
cumstances began very soon to manifest their effect
on the ice. At S a.m. a lane of water was observed
about half a mile to scawaril of our position, extend-
ing from west to cast, for three or four miles, gra-
dually increasing as the ice opened out, which was
drifted off" by the force of the wind then blowing off

AN UNEXPECTED CHANGE.

427

shore. Towards noon, so rapid had been its progress,
that about 600 yards to the eastward, the water
extended continuously from the shore to the pack
edge, then distant about a mile, and as far along the
coast as could be discerned ; but for the remainder of
the day it made no nearer approach to us— steadily
increasing its area, however, in other directions. We
could only hope for a continuance of these influences,
to enable us to take advantage of the fine space of open
water. The ice had remained quite stationary around,
but at 1 P.M., owing to the continuance of the thaw,'
and from the efiect of the tides, it had cracked along
the beach, and would easily detach itself on a slight
cause— that outside the open water, could be seen
setting Steadily to the eastward. This change came
on us unexpectedly, and the sanguine few who could
not be convinced, that we had reached our winter
quarters—exulted in the prospect, I must say, appa-
rently with good reason.

A Gull and Raven hovered around us the entire
day— the latter we had not seen since that eventful
morning we bore up from the Strait of Prince of
Wales. Towards midnight, when the quarter-master
of the watch (Henry May*) went out to examine the

* This fine old fellow was the patriarch and Mentor of our
crew, had served in former Expeditions, where he proved himself
as invaluable as he did to us. by his correct and steady conduct,
and the inlluence of \m good example amongst the men. He
has since served with me in II. M.S. ' Cornwallis,' where he -^-ell

428

THE NORTH -WKST I'ASSAGE.

I* '•

tide-pole, from inability to steady it, he found some
difficulty in taking the observation, and on looking
round in the darkness, saw open water, only a few
feet from him, extending to the shore, and i,he ice in
which we were fixed being gradually borne off— the
first intimation we had of the circumstance. The
wind was then blowing with the force of a gale— the
night was dark and tempestuous, and as we were
carried off towards the pack, we anxiously waited for
daylight.

The morning of the 11th found us drifting steadily
to the eastward, about one mile off shore on the pack
edge ; still beset in that which had borae us off and
about twenty-five yards from the in-shore water. From
the mast-head, water could be seen extending along the
land to a distant point, (subsequently called Cape
Colquhoun) off which the ice seemed to be packed,
from the presence of a shoal, as was supposed.
Beyond it no land could be seen, but a strong ice
blink* showed itself, from which it appeared that the
coast line trended to the south-east. Some of us
were most anxious that we might be freed from the
slight barrier that lay between us and the water, and
run down with a fair wind as far as possible to
the Cape, whence it extended; with the hope

maintained the character he had previously earned, of being
one of the most respectable and trustworthy petty officers ia
Iler Majesty's Navy.

* The dull, whitish appearance, the sky presents over ice.

FORTUNATE ESCAPE.

429

fairly entertained, of rounding it ; rather than be drifted
in the pack, where from any sudden change of wind
we might have been fixed, perhaps never to be hbur-
ated— for once carried off the hmd for a considerable
distance into the great Polar pack, I believe the chances
of a ship regaining it again, are but small ; it was
not however deemed judicious to do so. As we were
anxious to get to the eastward, it may seem strange
that advantage was not then taken of the water which
led to Cape Colquhoun ; for if we ever intended to
round this point, we could not possibly have had a
better opportunity of doing so ; and a position off that
part of the coast was not worse than any other, as
they were all equally full of peril. No means were
employed to release the ship until 1 p.m., and then
it was nearly too late, for the wind changing to the
westward, brought the ice rapidly from that quarter,
and as rapidly did it become packed to the eastward,
closing up the much desired space of water, and cut-
ting off our chances of escape to the shore, even when
freed from our imprisonment in the pack. At this
hour we made sail in the hope of breaking up the
floe, set fresh anchors, and hove on them at the cap-
stan. Other expedients were resorted to, but in vain
— the ship did not move in the slightest degree. Re-
course was then had to gunpowder; several charges
from fourteen to fifty pounds were sunk beneath the
floe, and in every case succeeded in completely
breaking up the packed ice, in which we liad been

'■.'■

430

TFIK NORTIl-VVK.ST PASSAftK.

so perfectly cradled on the night of the 21)th of
August.

It WHS marvellous to \ lew the quantity of ice that
made its u})i)earnncc at the surface, when companul
with the small area of that destroyed, which packed
and adhering to the ship's bottom, was completely
detached by the blasting. At 4.30 the ship was
liberated, the canvas alone being quite sutlicient to
get her under weigh ; thus affording strong evidence
of the superiority of gunpowder over the saw — the only
other means that could have released us, and then
only after immense labour and nmcli loss of time.
So rai)idly had the ice set down and jjacked about us,
that we were obliged to cut the halsers for more
speedy liberation ; when we stood in along its edge,
rudderless, striking it occasionally— and a few minutes
more might have fixed us in the great Polar pack,
through our tardiness in commencing operations.

At 6.30 we neared the shore, shortened sail, and
again made fust to a lar^c piece of ice, when a halser
was laid out to a heavier piece, grounded in shore in
ten fathoms water, about one hundred yards distant,
to which the ship was warped and secured at
6 40 P.M., with one tano, six, and four inch halsers,
about sixty yards from the shore, with ice of the last
year's formation intervening.

Soon after we were secured, there was not a speck
of open water to be seen, and the ice was still driit-
ing to the eastward. At 9.30 our situation was again

iiAZAiinous posrrroN.

431

rendered very critical by a heavy floe coming violently
m contact with the western end of that to which we
were attached, tnrning it partially round and nearer
the sliore. The same force acting against tiie ship,
caused the anchors to draw, and gave her an in-
clination of twdvi) degrees, at the same tinie carry-
ing her from ten into seven fathoms water ; but about
ten yards nearer the bea(;h there were; only two
fathoms, so that a continuance of the force must
liave forced us upon it, Tiius again did our safety
de[)end upon remaining firmly secured to the ice,
whose integrity was threatened moment.'irily. The
four inch halser was carried away, the stream chain
laid out with an anchor; and until midnight
every man was occupied in using his utmost en-
deuvours to add to the general security, as far as
It liiy within human power. We remained clad
and booted as before, prepared for a start, scarcely
venturing to leave the deck for a little temporary
rest. The wild and cheerless aspect of everything
around was heightened to a degree, by the increasing
gale from the westward, howling amid the darkness
and gloom of this tempestuous night.

On the morning of the 12th, the force of the gale
had in some degree subsided, and daylight revealed
our extremely hazardous position- exposed to all
the winds, quite unslKilt.red and unprotected, with
tlu! mounds of shuiglo Ibrming a continuous embank-
ment along the beach. The floe which was the source

432

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

of SO much trouble and anxiety the previous evening,
was stationarj' on our outer side, and would again
assail us, (in the event of a northerly wind setting in,)
and force us on the beach. In the evening we vv^ere
gladdened by the sight of a flock of Bucks going to
the eastward, and a Eox and Snow Owl were seen on
the land — the latter identical in character with the
one formerly described.

A fall in the barometers on the previous evening,
foretold the advent of a southerly wind, on the
morning of the 13th, which then blew from the
south-east, and soon afterwards a lane of water opened
about eighty yards from the ship, extending due east
and west, with the ice in the offing drifting to the
westAvard, while that in our vicinity was quite
stationary. Towards noon as the wind became south-
west it resumed its easterly drift, and a short distance
from the ship it was loose sailing ice, which, could we
then have reached, our progress to the eastward
might have been considerabie — the drift being esti-
mated at upwa Is of a mile an hour. Notwithstanding
the favourable aspect of the ice for a further advance,
at an early hour in the morning, it was deemed either
unnecessary or injudicious to adopt any means to
liberate the ship, until 'Z p.m. when a small cask of
powder was placed beneath the outer barrier, which
its explosion fractured ; but this did not release us.
The necessity of adopting all possible means to
liberate the ship, became then evident, as it was

EFFKCTS OF BLASTINO.

433

tantalii-ng to view, only fifty yards distant, such a fine
space of open water for an easterly advance, had we
been prepared to take advr.ntage of it. Our reliance
entirely depended on what gunpowder could effect.
A heavy charge of 250 pounds was placed in a rum
cask, and sunk under the ice, which was about sixteen
feet thick, with five fathoms of fuse attached, and
exploded. The report was tremendous, and the shock
was felt throughout the ship— only about twenty-five
yards distant. Its effect on the ice was admirable,
smashing it in every direction, and castin r numerous
fragments on board— the grounded ice to which we
were secured varying in thickness from thirty-five to
sixty- seven feet, was rent in several places. This was
the largest charge tlai had ever been used in ice
navigation.

The greater part of the obstructing doe was broken
up, or fissured in such a manner as to be easil.y set
adrift; which the entire available trt.^^th r/ o^ir
ship's compjiny, ai-med with handspik,." or some
equally eff-ective implements, shortly effected, much to
their own amusement; as they floated on the larger
I)ieces to detach the smaller ones that obstructed The
exit of others still greater in magnitude in the rear.
Several smaller charges of powder were successfully
exploded nearer the ship ; still she remained motion-
less. We then made sail, and hove all aback with
a view of loosening her attachments. Anchors were
laid out and hove on at the capstan, and the usual

P F

434

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

expedients of sallying &c., had recourse to. After
some time, our efforts were crowned with success,
the ship became released, and buoyant, once more
ready to move under her canvas. Unfortunately
darkness now set in, the wind became westerly, the
night looked wild and tempestuous, and rain fell
heavily in the squalls. It was, therefore, not con-
sidered prudent to venture out into the pack. The
ship was, therefore, again secured to the floe at
9.30, and the men were ordered an extra allowance of
meat and spirits after the labour of the previous
eight hours.

The quantity of powder expended in blasting,
during the day, amounted to 4G6 pounds. A few small
fish {Cottvs Polaris, and Cottus Quadricornis,) which
were killed in the water from the effects of the
blasting, were thrown up on the ice. The tempera-
ture rose to 43° — remarkable for the advanced season
of the year. Two flocks of Ducks and some Snow-
Owls were seen, and we were again visited by the
ominous croaking Raven, which some of our men
affirmed, had followed us from the Frince of Wales
Strait.

On Sunday, the 19th, the wind described a course
round the compass, ultimately settling into the
south west, the ice still drifting to the eastward. It
was not until noon that preparations were made for
shipping the rudder, but the ice being so closely
packed about our stern-post, we were obliged to have

GLOWINO PROSPECTS.

435

recourse to blasting, which >. moved it. About 6 p.m
the rudder was partially shipped. Since the cnsualty
of the 29th of August, it had not been in use, and
was found to require some further repair, which
caused considerable delay. About this time, a lane
of water had opened from our position, extending
east and west, with the ice still in motion to the
eastward, but unfortunately the same causes existed
that prevented our departure the previous evening
Darkness set in, the wind became westerly, rain and
snow fell, and the night wore an exceedingly wild
and threatenmg appearance. At 9.30, the pack began
to close with the shore, and in half an hour we were
agam blocked up, with no water anywhere to be
seen.

The following morning, the 15th, brought with it
no improvement in our prospects. A cold north-
westerly wind blew, the land was nearly everywhere
covered with snow, and the temperature fell to 14°—
which looked much like the advent of winter. The
second master and ice mate were dispatched to
examine the coast-iine, and state of the ice to the
eastward of Point Colquhoun, about five mUes
distant ; and returned in the course of the evening
From this point they observed the coast trending to
the E.S.E., with very heavy ice packed on the shore,
and huge floes to seaward, but no appearance of
bay or harbour was to be seen. They shot a few

F F 2

Ptanmgan, and saw numerous tracks of Beai-s and
Musk Oxen.

Several of our peoplo had given up hope of doing
anything more this season, and the rudder was
again unshipped with but little apparent chance of
using it again. Nothing could liave presented a
more dreary aspect than this locaUty then wore ; still
we hoped for a better fate than a winter's sojourn
in such an abode.

ini

« •mm

* ^k

^TE OF THE ICE.

437

CHAPTER XVII.

""Lttir^rT'^' '''.'' °'*'^ '" ^"*^ Water-Preparations
L F 7 p ^ "*"T'J"^ ""' Results-Departure from
r . r^ °'"'' '"'^ Retreat-Currents-Ice in Motion-
Critical Position- Pressure-Its Effects-Point Colquhoun-
Progress and Incidents on the 20th - Drifting - Perilous
Drifting-Cape Wrottesley - Position-Cape Austin-Diffi-
culties-Ship secured-Cape Crozier-Prospects- Geological
Character of Coast-Inferences-Dangerous Character of the
Coast-Progress on the 23rd-Incidents-Weather-An Ice
Barrier-Our Passage through it-Aspect of Evening- Ship on
Shore-Measures adopted-Their success-Fortunate Escape
— The Night. ^

The weather wore the same gloomy nspect on the
mornmg of the Kth of September; the wind had
changed into the east-south-east quarter, whence it
blew fiercely, with frequent squalls, and the tempera-
ture rose from 11° to 21°, which led us to hope, with
tervour, that a change might yet take place in our
position. The ice remained stationary throughout
the day until 7 p.m., when a lane of water unex-
pectedly and noiselessly opened about eighty yards

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1^1^ 12.5
1^ 12.2

t m

2.0

1.8

1.25

1.4 III 1.6

^ 6"

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Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 873-4503

•^

^>^

'L'-V*^

y^TS'

u..

/.A

i-^v^

438

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

from the ship, where the pack had closed on the
14th, which continued to increase for the remainder
of the evening. A six-inch halser was laid out on
the port quarter, to add still further to our security,
and prevent our being drifted out. This event was
hailed with pleasure, and we anxiously waited to see
how far we might be able to avail ourselves of it in
the morning.

The anxiously looked for 18th came: the wind
from E.S.E. had increased to a gale ; the extent of
open water had also much enlarged, and varied in
extent during the day, from one to four miles in the
evening. There was no ice in this, and it extended
east and west as far as we could see, and round
Point Colquhoun. The temperature was steadily
rising, the wind gradually veering round more
in our favour, and we were only about seventy
yards distant from the water. In this state of affairs
nothing was done until towards noon, when a party
of men were sent to clear the ice from the stern post,
and ship the rudder, which, at 2 p.m., was accom-
plished. Preparations were then made for blasting
the ice intervening between us and the water, which
had, a few days before, blocked up the entrance of
the little dock we had previously formed for ourselves.
The loose character of the ice caused the expendi-
ture of only sixty- six pounds of powder for its
removal.

At 4 P.M. the ship was free — not n particle of ice

DISAPPOINTMENTS. 489

on the lee or seaward side; she only required the
canvas to put her in motion, and we prepared for
getting under weigh. The topsails and spanker were
double-reefed, and the halsers and ice-anchors brought
in ; the stream-chain alone securing us to the floe.

Thus, all things being completed for a start, we
could not but rejoice at our singular good fortune in
havmg such a fine expanse of water to work in at
such an advanced season of the year; and were once
more elated by the pleasures of hope, notwithstanding
we had sufiered so often from disappointment. Such
was the case this evening : the preparations we were
so joyously making were suddenly ordered to be sus-
pended, halsers were again laid out, sails furled, and
the ship secured as before— the wind being con-
sidered too strong to effect much in working to the
eastward, although the water at the time, with the
exception of its surface being rippled by the wind,
was as smooth as a pond.

Thus was another splendid opportunity of making
easterly progress lost. Our proceedings, in not taking
immediate advantage of the chances we had of creep-
ing along the coast, since the lOth of September,
appeared, at this time, characterized by a degree of
indecision, entirely at variance with our previous ope-
rations. We seemed willing to go, but loath to
depart. Had we promptly taken advantage of all
the favourable circumstances that presented, and
which I have truthfully narrated, exactly as they

440

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

occurred, we must have been many miles distant
from the position we then occupied. There was no
safety in this position we could not have enjoyed,
m a greater or, at least, an equal, degree, on any other
part of the coast, which could not have been much
worse ; indeed, I am sure there was nothing in the
locality that should have made us so attached to it.
I am firmly of opinion, that our tardiness on these
several occasions, where an easterly advance, however
trifling, was of vital consequence, and when oppor-
tunities occurred for making it, exercised a fatal
influence on the voyage of the ' Investigator.'

On the morning of the 19th, the wind continued
from the same quarter, but had moderated consider-
ably during the night. At length, at 3.45 a.m., the
ship was cast ofi" from the floe ; we made sail, and
were soon standing out towards the pack edge, be-
tween which and the land-ice we continued working
to the eastward— all in high spirits at the fine sea of
water which everywhere met the view. The land-ice,
off which we tacked, formed a regular Une of out-
works along the coast, and was of a very heavy cha-
racter, giving evidence of its having been subject to
tremendous pressure : huge pieces, hundreds of tons
in weight, were seen thrown up on end, while others
equally large had been forced for a considerable dis-
tance up the escarpment of a coast line, in some
places inclining not more than ten degrees from
the perpendicular.

ICE IN MOTION.

441

Towards noon, the wind fell light, and changed
into east by north, soon after which it quite died
away, so that we could make no progress by tacking.
At 3.45 P.M., orders were given to bear up, as we
stood towards the land-ice, where there was a per-
ceptible current setting in our favour to the eastward
and after running against it to the westward for
about three mUes, over the space it had cost us so
much toil and trouble to work the ship in the morn-
ing, we shortened sail, and made fast to a large floe
grounded in nine fathoms water, with a five-inch
halser at bow and stem, and about 500 yardr Som
the shore J deeply regretting our lost opportunities,
when every foot of easterly advance was invaluable
but utterly unable to explain the reason why.

Our situation was then extremely exposed and
dangerous-so is every part of this coast-from being
quite unprotected to seaward, whence the ice might
at any Tnoment assail us, from any slight cause.

At 6 P.M., when I left the deck, the pack edge could
be discerned a few miles to seaward, with a tranquil
sea intervening ; half an hour afterwards aJl hands
were piped on deck, and to our horror and amazement
we saw the ice setting rapidly down towards us. The
tide or current, which we had before observed, then
swept past the ship to the eastward, at an estimated
rate of upwards of two knots an hour, bearing with
It those detached heavy floes it had carried off
the pack-edge. These were then borne with fear-

442

THB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

fill velocity upon the ship, grinding against her side
with such violence that the ancliors di-cw, the star-
board bulwarks were stove in, and her stern came in
contact with a projecting piece of the Hoc, raising her
fourteen inches out of the water, and momentarily
threatening the safety of the rudder and stern post.
These masses, after inflicting the mischief, and meeting
with no opposmg obstacles, passed on, only to make
room for others following in quick succession. Our
first object was to add still further to the security of
the ship, lest she should be carried away by these
continual assaults, and her future management taken
again out of our hands, unless we had felt disposed to
let her drift with the ice to the eastward. But such not
being oiur intention, she was warped to a small indent-
ation in the floe edge a few yards ahead, whose pro-
jecting point would, in all probability, ward off some
amount of the violent shocks to which we were then
exposed. This being accomplished after much laboui,
we were secured to the floe with u stream chain, and
a nine-inch halser at bow, and a five and six-inch
halser astern. As nothing further coiUd be done for our
safety, we could only await in silence the result, ready
to avert, if human power could do so, any sudden
casualty that might occur ; and as it was again quite a
cahn, the ship could not possibly be managed under
canvas.

It was truly appalling to witness the effect of this
current— the most rapid we had seen in the Polar

KI-'PKCTS OF CUKllENTS.

443

Sea. I could compare it to nothing more real than that
which may be seen in a tidal harbour, where «mall
floating objects are borne in its stream with velocity,
at the same time that they arc turned and wheeled
about by numerous eddies in their course. Such was
the effect it had on the ice, and these huge mtisses
setting down on a ship, so unprotected, and help-
lessly placed as was the ' Investigator,' as they came
singly to the attack in quick succession, presented a
prospect of peril no words of mine can describe; but
the recollection of which can never be effaced from
my mind. From this danger a beneficent Providence
had again interposed to shield us.

We foui (I we had gained by the day's work about
six miles, and had rounded that point, (Colquhoun),
from whence the coast takes an easterly trending,
without the slightest curve or indentation that could
afford shelter to a ship, with the ice every where fear-
fully packed along its shores. Notwithstanding the
perils of the day, we heartily rejoiced at the easterly
progress. we had made.

Two Whales were observed in the morning going to
the westward at a leisurely pace, and as we readily
indulged in any hope that favoured our wishes, we
inclined to the opinion that they had come from the
eastward, where open water existed. The tem-
perature kept tolerably high, from 26° to 32°, and the
weather was fine with partial fogs.

Early on the morning of the 20th we were again at

444

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

work. The weather had undergone no change, but
the wind gradually drew round to the northward, and
towards evening became westerly. The ice continued
still drifting towards the eastward, and at 4 a.m. the
ship was cast off from the perilous position on the floe
edge we had occupied during the night ; but being
unable to use our canvas, she was warped to a
large floe drifting to the eastward, to which we linked
our fate ; changing our position from time to time, by
warping along its edge, to avoid the collision, to which
we were momentarily subject, and frequently sus-
tained, keeping as near the land ice as possible.

At 10.30 we had reached another point of land
about ninety feet high, similar in appearance to the
one we had passed the day before, and to which the
name of Wrottesley* has been since bestowed—
against this the ice was thrown up in a most wonder-
ful manner, buttressing it nearly to its summit.
About 1 P.M., the wind having become light and
variable, we made sail to a light breeze, at the same
time, aiding our advance as much as possible by
warping. While doing so, however, we lost the land
ice, and got fairly into the labyrinthine meshes of the
pack, which we were most anxious to avoid ; more
particularly as we saw it steadily closing on us since
the morning. In this position, we made every effort
to regain the land ice by warping, grappling, &c.,

* In compliment to the present noble and distinguished
President of the Royal Society (Lord Wrottesley).

HAZARDOUS POSITION.

445

but to little purpose. The canvas was of no service, as
the wind had died away. The ship was completely
blocked, and in this predicament, the main pack gra-
dually closed on us ; to which the ship was temporarily
secured, and borne with it for a short distance to the
eastward.

We were thus again placed in a most hazardous
position, being steadily drifted, by a power so irresisti-
ble, that in the event of its meeting with any slight
impediment or resistance to its onward progress, the
ship would inevitably have been crushed. One of two
courses, therefore, were open to us for ad option -either
to cut or blast a dock in the floe to which we were
attached, wherein we might have drifted with com-
parative safety a long distance to the eastward, with
the chances that might subsequently occur of getting
into open water, or, to detach ourselves from it on
the first opportunity, and endeavour to regain the
land ice. The latter was adopted. An opportunity
of escaping soon came. Having met with a narrow
lane of water, the ship was cast off, and we imme-
diately commenced, by warping, to regain the in-shore
ice. It was not, however, until 7.30 p.m. that we
succeeded in securing the ship to this immoveable
barrier. After such toil and exertion as it had cost
us to reach it, the men were refreshed with an extra
allowance of meat and spirits.

The position we had gained was as good as could
be expected off a coast where neither safety nor shelter

446

THE NOaTH-WKST PA88AGK.

exists, well secured to the grounded ice about half ii
mile from the shore, and at an equal distance from a fintj
Cape which we had in vain endeavoured to reach ; and
with a heavy barrier of ice which had just been thrown
up, grounded in twenty-nine fathoms on its outer side,
and ten and a half on its inner, some twenty feet above
water to the westward ; partially protecting us on that
quarter from whence most danger might be appre-
hended. Thus we lay, anxiously awaiting the events
of to-morrow.

We had the satisfaction of seeing no unfavourable
change in the weather on Sunday morning the 20th,
when at 5 a.m., we got again under weigh, and made
sail, keeping off the land ice. This, together with
warping, enabled us to reach the base of a fine, bold
Cape, subsequently called Cape Austin,* against which
the ice was then packed ; hoping that a few hours
would aflPord us open water for another advance, how-
ever small. We took advantage of this delay for the
performance of Divine Service, with heart-felt gratitude
to the Giver of all good, for the merciful protection
He had so signally bestowed on us. Immediately
after, at 11 a.m., the ice having opened out a little,

* So called in compliment to an officer who had already gained
distinction in these seas (Captain Horatio Austin, C.B.), then in
command of an Expedition to the Eastward. The name has, I find,
been changed since our return, and that of " McClure" bestowed
on it. The original name is retained in the accompanying chart,
being so named in Captain M<^CIure's despatch.

I'ROOKKSS AND POSITION,

447

we again made all plain sail to the eastward, as the
approach of a licnvy floe of great extent setting down
and threatening our position from the westward, no-
cessitated our speedy departure. Our slow progress
was much imi)eded by the ice. and a light variable
wind ; as the latter soon became easterly, and the former
was gradually closing, warping was had recourse to—
but all to no purpose. We could not make the slightest
advance, and the steady approach of that from which we
had fled but a short time before, rendered it necessary
to retrace our steps for a short distance along the
edge of the land ice to a place of security. The ship
was accordingly warped to a small indentation in
it, nearly her own length, which, with the aid of
gunpowder was in a very short time converted
into a nice little dock, with projecting angular bul-
warks at bow and stem. In this retreat the ship
was secured at 6 p.m. for the night, with a stream
chain, and two ten-inch halsers. Towards midnight,
the ice opened out considerably about us, setting slowly
to the westward ; but as we were 'nst within the
line of Cape Austin, and a twin headland of equal
boldness and grandeur about a mile apart, it was not
improbable that the easterly current passing outside
might form a sort of eddy in this shallow bay.

We had on this day made nearly a mile of easting,
slow as was our advance, our spirits never flagged;'
for we were sustained by the hope that each successive
day would bring with it more cheering results.

448

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

On the 22nd, the breeze still continued from the
eastward, ultimately setting into the south-east ; but
the weather was generally of the same character — the
temperature rose in the course of the day to 37°,
which was what we so much depended on for further
success, aided by southerly winds. At 0.30, the ship
was warped out of dock, and along the land ice as far
as it was possible to go until noon, when she was again
secured immediately under the second headland,
which was subsequently named Cape Crozier.*

Captain M^'Clure, with the second Master, had
a short time before left the ship in the third whale
boat, and proceeded round the Cape to ascertain the
state of the ice. They returned in about an hour,
with the pleasing intelligence, that it was slackening
oflf shore, and that with the continuance of the fresh
southerly breeze, it would soon afford space suflacient
for a farther advance. Before this change took place,
however, night set in, and we remained in onr
position, patiently awaiting the coming daylight;
having made about half a mile of easterly advance
during the day.

The Geological character of this coast line from
Ballast beach to Cape Crozier, while it fully par-
took of an Arctic aspect in the highest degree,
likewise presented some features of interest. The
remarks formerly made with regard to the land

* To perpetuate the memory of Captain Crozier, the brave
and worthy companion of the gallant Franklin.

CHARACTER OF COAST. 449

in the vicinity of Ballast beach, are applicable to the
coast line as far as Point Colquhoun, which is the
hrst prominent point met with, is of limestone forma-
tion some eighty feet high, and was the first of a
rocky character seen, since rounding the southern
extreme of the island. About five or six miles
further to the eastward, a similar but somewhat
more lofty point exists, (Cape Wrottesley) the coast
line mtervening, forming nearly a straight line of
barren, undulating hills. It is of similar formation
(hmestone) about 100 feet high, presenting an
"Tegular and iU-defined line of stratification on its
western side, dipping at an angle of about 15° to the
north-west J but on its eastern side, as it loses its
geological character, and becomes identified with
the ordinary coast line, the stratification, instead
of foUowing the south-east inclination of the land h
thrown into a series of semi-circular lines, which again
become angular or zigzag before their continuity is
estabhshed with the line of stratification at the high-
est point, about its centre. It is the most northern
pomt of Banng Island, is situated in lat. 74° 30'
long. 121° 30' 50' W., from whence the coast line
assumes an E.S.E. trending, until it again juts out
m the fine, bold headland of Cape Austin, which
forms a grand and imposing feature in the outline of
this dreary and unprotected coast. It is about 400
feet high, while a profile view gives it an inclination
ot some ten or twelve degrees, Tailing back in ledges

G G

460

THK NOnTII-WF.ST l'/\88\r.K.

with the debris forniiiifT a buttress at its base,
cxtendin};!; upwards nearly a tlnrd of its height ; yet,
when viewed from the front, it appears (piite vertical,
and the desolate grandeur of its appearance v/as
wonderfully striking from the perilous position whence
we viewed it. Projecting through the debris, I could
observe the more prominent angular portions of its
lower formation, dipping in a slight degree from its
centre on either side in a south-west and south-east
direction, and they appeared to be composed of shale
and a sort of slaty sandstone. Above and surmounting
the debris, it is of an ill-defined columnar structure,
a])parently limestone, fissured and broken up exten-
sively, Avith no well-marked line of stratification ; only
what a slight change of colour here and there
presents, which was uniformly brownish grey with a
ferruginous admixture interspersed throughout. Its
general aspect much resembled that of Nelson's
Head, but on a nuich smaller scale, and formed like it ;
a grand turning point on this part of the coast. The
outline assumes a convexity like the walls of a lofty
fortress, the rocky structure being preserved for about
600 yards, until gradually lost in land of the usunl
hilly, irregular charactor. This takes a slightly
crescentic form from its trending to E.S.E. and again
shoots out in a north-east direction, completing the
crescent of a shallow, shelterless bay, and ending in
another bold I'eadland, similar to, but somewhat less
elevated than. Cape Austin. This fine Cape appeared

CAl'K (;il()."IER.

its base,
ght ; yet,
1 vertical,
ince v/118
1 whence
1, 1 could
on?, of its
) from its
outh-enst

of [;liale
mounting
structure,
up exten-
ion; only
id there
ey with a
out. Its

Nelson's
id like it ;
ist. The
3f a lofty
for about
the usual
slightly
and again
eting the
ending in
iwhat less

appeared

451

Hlentical both in appearance and structure, with its
contrere on the opposite side of this little shallow
indentation, from which it is about three miles distant
and IS possessed of the sariie convexity of outline, with
much of Its grand, imposing aspect, although in a less
<iogree. It is elevated about 340 feet-its front I
may say. quite vertical, falling away on either side
Identifying itself with the land like the other-
and in structure it is of an ill-defir i, broken
columnar character, extensively fissured in a horizontal
direction, resembling a state of progressive decay and
ddapidation. Much debris was also collected at
Its base; Its lower formation was slate and shale
laminated and fissured, and was surmounted by lime-
stone of a coluinnar form, with well marked lines of
sulphureous and ferruginous deposit extending trans
versely along its front. The decomposition of this
compound, probably taking place on its exposure
fully displayed the well marked colour of both ; which'
when contrasted with the dark grey of the fomation'
imparted a stratified and divisional appearance to the
whole.

As circumstances did not allow of my visiting this
Cape for more than a few minutes, my examination
was necessarily confined to the debris, which entirely
consisted of carboniferous limestone, in pieces or
blocks varying in size from several hundred pounds
weight to minute fragments. I found numerous
specimens of fossil uni- and bivalve shells, embedded

G G 2

452

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

firmly in the limestone (embracing chiefly species of
Producta, Spirifer, Pecten, Cardium, Terebrutula,
Buceinum, and a few others, the generic characters of
which were not then determined), together with
pieces of wood of various sizes, from portions of
small twigs and branches, to pieces two inches in
diameter, embedded in the same manner as the
shells. Some pieces were encrusted with a deposit
of iron ; others had a sulphureous covering, and
emitted a disagreeable odour ; but almost all looked
black and charred, in an advanced stage of carbon-
ization, as if partially burned; and displayed in
numerous places, the true lustre of coal. The lime-
stone fissured readily wherever the wood or shells
were found in its substance — revealing them. Seve-
ral pieces of very pure anthracite were picked up in
the debris j and I have no doubt, had time permitted,
it would have been found in greater abundance. I
also remarked, that in the broken land intervening
between these two Capes, the escarpment presented a
dark, carbonaceous appearance, similar to what is
observed in the neighbourhood of the coal measures ;
and what I had previously met with in Prince
Albert's Land ; t ut I was imable to make a personal
examination, from the critical nature of the position
we occupied. Hence we may infer, had time per-
mitted a thorough exploration of the locality, that
results similar to those obtained in the hills near
Ballast beach would have been obtained. From the

DANGEROUS NAVIGATION,

463

identity, both in appearance and outline, of these two
fine headlands, we may, I think, arrive at the ana-
logical inference, that they are of the same geological
character j not only as each other, but likewise as
that of Nelson's Head, on nearly the same meridian,
but at the southern extreme of the island.

There was nothing deserving the name of bay or
harbour along any part of this coast, nor any pro-
tection or shelter for ships ; and exposed as it is to
all the fury and violence of westerly and north-
westerly winds, it stands without a parallel, for the
dangers of its navigation, in any part of the world.
The appalling evidence we were afforded of the effects
of pressure, caused by stormy wmds acting on a
trackless icy sea, as such was we had not witnessed
in any other part of our eventful voyage, and baffles
all attempts at describing — mounds being piled
together to the height of upwards of 100 feet. Our
passage along this part of the coast was a truly
terrible one — one which should never be again at-
tempted ; and with a vivid remembrance of the perils
and dangers which hourly assailed us, I feel convinced
it will never be made again.

Daylight on the 23rd dawned on us most aus-
piciously, revealing to our delighted vision a most
favourable state of matters, as regarded the relative
disposition of land, ice, and water. The latter had
increased to a great degree during the few hours of
darkness, affording a space of about three miles

454

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

between the pack and the shore; and no ice could
be seen to the eastward. The weather had changed but
httle in character : there was a moist, hazy atmosphere,
hght south-easterly wind, and a temperature of 35°.
At 3.45 A.M. we left our position, and made saU, tack-
mg, as requisite, to the eastward, between the pack and
the shore, and sounded in water at 140 fathoms.

From Cape Crozier, the coast line still preserved
Its E.S.E. trending, with the same irregular surface
us I have elsewhere observed. Several bold, sandy
escarpments were observable, and the entrance to
what appeared an inlet, the existence of which was
subsequently proved— the first of the kind we
had met with, but there was eveiy indication of
Its bemg shallow, as ice was grounded off its en-
trance. The coast presented the same aspect until
Pomt Providence was reached.

The wind having fallen light about 10.30 the
boats were lowered to tow, and continued doing so
for an hour, when a light breeze springing up from
W.S.W., enabled us to set studding-sails, and we
sped along most cheerfully. After doubling one or
two slight projections of the land, we found the sea
nearly everywhere clear of ice. Light streams of it
could be discerned off the pack edge, and a narrow
niargm bordering the shore; but there was no ob-
stniction whatever to our course.

The land, as we proceeded, became still more
elevated and broken. High ranges of hills, moun-

AN ICY BARlllEK.

455

taiiious in character, appeared far in the background,
with apparently deep intervening gorges and ravines ;
the coast line was more irregular and indented, form-
ing a few little bays, off which the ice looked heavy
and grounded ; and the water, I should say, shallow,
affording no shelter for a ship, even should she suc-
ceed in passing the barrier of land-ice. The escarp-
ment, while it was generally lofty and abrupt, rose
in some situations with the usual inclination from the
beach — nothing of a rocky character could anywhere
be discerned. I observed, however, with the aid of a
glass, that in one part of the coast, for the distance
of one or two miles, it presented a dark-brownish
appearance, with an accumulation of red sand ex-
tending along its base. Its front was travei-sed by
numerous narrow lines or ridges, running horizon-
tally, like lines of stratification, uniform in colour
with the soil ; as if formed of projecting ledges of sand
or slate.

The continuance of partial fogs, with occasional
snow, during the greater part of the day, rendered
our view of the land more or less imperfect ; at times
obscuring it entirely from our view. At 5 a.m. the
ice was reported from the mast-head as extending
directly across our path, and closing with the land ;
water, however, could be discerned beyond it : this,
the appearance of the sky fully verified— from which
we concluded it could only be an extensive floe which
had streamed off from the pack, but apparently of

456

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the heaviest character. Our speed being then five
knots, with a strong westerly wind, and a current in
our favour, it was determined to run the ship stem on
against the floe, with all plain saU set— the studding.
saUs having been previously taken in. This was a
rash decision, and had it not otherwise been most
ProvidentiaUy averted, the collision would have been
tremendous, and must have sunk the ship. When
about 200 yards distant, and in breathless expecta-
tion of the coming crash, the ice was observed to
open, as if magically, in our course, and on reaching
it, there was just space sufficient for our unimpeded
progress through it, in a narrow channel, with high
walls of ice on either side. It was quite appalling to
view it, being of a pearly blue, fliuty character
combmmg antiquity with rocky strength and hard'
ness, which must have been the growth of ages ; and
one could not but shudder on reflecting what would
have been the result of our premeditated conflict with
this icy granite.

After passing through this barrier in such a mira-
culous manner, we found ourselves again in a great
expanse of water ; the pack edge could be discerned
to seaward; a heavy fog hung over the land along
which we ran, night was closing in, and the wind was
freshening with frequent snow squalls. We intended
to shorten sail, and lay to for the night-the coming
darkness rendering a further advance extremely hazard-
ous under the circumstances of our position. As we

AN UNEXPECTED MISFORTUNE.

457

stm proceeded, our anxiety was intense, and opinions
were treely hazarded that Melville Island would be
reached in the morning.

At 7 P.M., while standing on the forecastle with a
tew other officers, eagerly watching through the dark-
ness for anything likely to retard our advance, the
ship suddenly struck on a sandbank. The leadsman in
the chams had just reported fifteen fathoms water, and
strange to say, the next moment her bow was elevated
eight feet out of water, with only six feet water under
It, and three feet before the gangway, at about ten feet
froni the stern there was only eighteen inches
whJe the stern itself was in five fathoms; and she
was thrown over a few degrees to the port side. The
soundmgs had thus given no intimation of approach-
ing danger, and we lay about 600 yards from the
shore-then quite shut out from view by fog— with
some pieces of grounded ice intervening. We were
m a great degree acting under the direction of
Lieutenant Cresswell, as his observations led us to
beheve that we had passed the point of coast reached
by him and his travelling party in the spring, and
were following the trending of the coast, which, as we
supposed, led uninterrupted by bay or inlet, to the
south-e&st. This error was subsequently accounted
tor, by an alteration in the rate of the chronometer
when the observations were made; caused perhaps by
the low degree of cold to which it had been exposed.
We had only been congratulating ourselves on our

458

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

fortunate escape about an hour previous, and were
speculating freely on the future when this unforeseen
casualty occurred, and we found ourselves in the
midst of new dangers, which threatened the safety of
the ship in an extreme degree.

We had no sooner struck, than prompt measures
were adopted to free the ship from her critical position.
All hands were in a moment at work to shorten sail,
after which we commenced to lay out anchors— a work,
under the circumstances, of great labour and difficulty,
which was successfully performed by Messrs. Wyn-
niatt and Sainsbury ; they were dropped to wind-
ward, and but a short distance astern, in seventeen
fathoms. The second master, (Mr. Court), had pre-
viously been dispatched to sound, and reported deep
water everywhere about the ship, except where she had
struck.

On the return of the boats, all our strength was
employed at the capstan, but after straining every nerve
for some time, we failed to move her in the slightest
degree. We were then obliged to lighten her in the
bow, the forehold was opened, and nearly emptied of
its contents, all the casks, &c., it contained, were
hoisted up, and carried to the after part of the ship ;
provisions were got on deck, and other means had re-
course to. While employed at this work, a heavy strain
being at the same time kept up on the cables, a large
piece of ice was borne down on us by the wind, which
coming in contact with her side, swung the ship to

HOPES INDULGED IN.

459

leeward, bore her off the bank, and at 9.45 p.m we
were again afloat, and brought up, with both bower
anchors in six and a half fathoms. Our crew had been
on deck, I may say the entire day, and after their recent
severe work, required some refreshment ; subsequently
they were again employed in re-stowing holds, weigh-
ing stream-anchors, cleaning decks ; and having altered
the disorder and confusion into which everything had
been thrown by this unfortunate occurrence, we were
ready to take advantage of the first dawn of daylight
to proceed, if possible, on our course. We had all been
animated by the highest hopes throughout the day. not-
withstanding this temporary check to their indulgence
Melvdle Island was still the great object of our wishes'
and there was every probability that on the following
day it might be reached-our distance from its known
western extreme (Cape Hay)* being then inconsider-
able.

This point once attained, we calculated on meeting
httlc further obstruction along the northern shores of
Parry Sound. Some of us even dared to hope and spe-
culate on reaching England that season, advanced as it
then was. We anxiously awaited for the coming day-
light to ascertain our true position, and the relative

* This Cape had been nearly reached by Parry in 1820-the
Strait nitervening between it and the position we then occupied
off Point Providence, a distance of about sixty miles, is the only
part of the North-West Passage that has not been navigated
m a ship. °

-^.if'

460

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

disposition of the elements. The day was to us a
most eventful one, and as midnight came, the night
wore as wild and tempestuous an aspect as any of us
had, perhaps, ever seen at sea. The wind had
increased to a gale from the westward, which, while
it brought some heavy loose ice about us kept the
pack off shore ; the snowy whiteness of the former
presenting a strange feature in the scene, looming
ominously in the darkness; while the cold raw
atmosphere, the howling of the wind, the darkness of
the night, and the chances there existed of the pack
setting down on us, assisted to form a picture of
Arctic cruising, which I cannot fully describe, but
can never cease to remember.

us a

POSITION AT DAYLIGHT.

461

CHAPTER XVIII.

Position on 23rd September- Resolution adopted-Enter the
Bay of Mercy-Error in doing so-Reasons advanced for
entenng the Pack-Reflections-Results of our Voyage—
A Second North-West Passage discovered-Dismantle Ship-
State of the Ic^Reduction of Provisions-Observations on
Polar Diet— Necessity of large allowance of Food-Siate of
the Ship-Cold between Decks-Party despatched to the
North and their return-State of Ic^Large Expanse of
Water seen-Our inabiUty to enter it-Pleasing Intelligence
—First Reindeer killed— Evidence of Game on the land-
Remarks on Reindeer.

The 23rd of September was a luckless day for the
* Investigator.' The men had continued uninter-
ruptedly at work during the night, and at 1 a.m. the
ship drifted a little, when another anchor was let go
in fifteen fathoms. The gale continued from the
westward veering at times to W.N.W., but moderated
with the advance of daylight. This period of the
morning, so ardently wished for, at length came, and
fully revealed to us our position; from which it ap-

462

THE NURTH-VVKST PA88AUB.

pnared tlia^ by keeping close to the land, we hnd been
runni/ij? into a deep bay; that the ^>ank on the ex-
tremity ol wni^h we had grounded, fo- 'led a sort of
crescent or horn at its north-western entrance extend-
ing about a quarter of a mile from the beach, and a
good bulwark against the encroachment of ice on a
ship, placed in the water inside and beyond it. The
coast line along which We ran, trended to the south,
and then sweeping round to the N.E., formed this
extensive bay, which was then quite clear of ice, some
twelve or thirteen miles in depth, its north-eastern
boundary running directly across our course; its
entrance, (Point Back), being exactly opposite to our
^)osition, and distant about seven miles. The land
appeai-ed of a hilly, lofty character, between which
and our position, the appearance of shoals were re-
ported from the mast-head ; but we did not verify the
fact by closer inspection. Mr. Court was then dis-
patched to sound the bay inside, south-east of the
shoal, to ascertain its eligibility for anchorage ; the
ship following the course of the boat until 9 a.m.,
when we I j-led sails, and anchored in four fathoms,
about 600 yards from the shore, and about three miles
inside the bank on which we had grounded. It was,
therefore, determined that this position should con-
stitute our winter quarters, despite any change that
might take place to favour a further advance, lest we
should not sue. -i in procuring another so eligible as
it was consiativ,?,.. ,o be. At noon all work was

■ ^^

KNTKR THK BAV.

46;i

completed, and our crew, after nearly thirty hours
continuous labour, were allowed to rest fox the re-
mainder of the day.

We were thus doomed to spend a second winter in
the ice, after jill the anticipations we had formed of
reaching Melville Island ; and, I must say. it was a
sad and bitter disappointment to us all. Entering
t'c s bay was the fatal error of our voyage. This
opinion I formed at the time, personally expressed it,
and recorded it in my Journal ; therefore, I could
not be, in any degree, influenced by subsequent
events; and, that the decision then arrived at, of
entering this bay, was a hasty one, was fidly
established by its results.

We had, previously to our entering this bay, made
no attempt to reach Point Back, although an open
sea was before us. The reported existence of shoals,
(which we did not examine), and the appearance of
the ice, setting down on it from the northward, caused
It to be considered not prudent to do so. Nor did we
make any attempt to reach the pack edge, with a
view of pushing througli its loose ice, and endeavour-
ing to get further to the north-east : although the
wind had become more northerly, and was bringing
the ice down with it. It was nothing more than
what is termed loose sailing ice in our immediate
neighbourhood, through which a ship might for some
distance have worked her way, as the sea is at this
time of the year, clearer of such impe:!iments, than

464

THK NORTH-WEST PASSAGK.

at any other; more may, therefore, be nccoraplished
in n few dnys, than in as many months at any earlier
period. ]\y doing so, wo would have got fairly within
the influence of tlie eurrcnt setting to the eastward
through Banks' Strait, and woiUd have been further
aided by the prevailing winds from the north-west.
Although we might have been temporarily beset, we
should stUl have been borne in the direction we
wished to go, and as the pack opened out have got
into one of its numerous lanes of water, that would
have led us to MeiviUo Island, then distant little
more than fifty miles. Or, had we failed in
doing this we might have been drifted such a
distance to the eastward, as to render our get-
ting through, on its breaking up in the follow-
ing season, a matter of still greater certainty.
Wintering in the pack, all Arctic navigators had
hitherto viewed with the utmost dread; and though
I admit it to be perilous and dangerous, our
experience of the previous winter was satisfactory
evidence that it could be done with safety; and this
was, I believe, the first time the experiment had been
made. Great and imminent as were the dangers
which then threatened us, as well as in the late
terrible passage we had just made, we had then
become so accustomed to danger, and to encounter
fearlessly the worst aspect this element could assume,
that we viewed, without apprehension, the risks and
chances of another winter in the pack, had it been so

)roplished
ny earlier
rly within
eastward
n further

•

trth-west.
besot, we
o'tion we
have got
at would
nut little
failed in
such a
our get-
5 follow-
;ertainty.
ors had
I though
•us, our
isfactory
and this
lad been
dangers
the late
ad then
ficounter
assume,
isks and
been so

OUll SKCOND niSOOVERV.

465

deoroed-so anxious were we to make the North-West
1 "ssage in the ship, and bring the ' Investigator' in
safety to England. 1 am, therefore, firmly convinced,
tlnit had we not entered this bay, but boldly pushed
into the pack, it would have led to a consummation
ot all our ardent hopes and wishes.

There are few states of mind from which one
cannot draw some degree of consolation, however
great may be the disappointment or deep the regret •
and we then drew largely on ours. It was, however*
satisfactory to reflect that, although the ship had only
been actually under weigh for five days during the
season, we had prosecuted the search over a wide ex-
tent of coast line, and added largely to Geographical
science by establishing the insular character of Baring
Island, besides discovering a second "North-West
Passage" between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans in
a direct line through Banks' Strait, in a voyage that
stands unparalleled, as the most perilous ever made in
the Polar Sea.

We, therefore, entered this bay,* disappointed as we
felt m doing so, with a firm reliance on Providence
that we might be enabled to leave on the foUowing

* The bay subsequently received the name of Mercy, in
remembrance of the perils we had escaped; but so„,e amongst
us not mappropriately said, it ought to have been so called,
from the fact that it would have been a mercy had w never
entered it.

H H

mxm

466

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

season in a state of as great efficiency as we had then
entered it.

On the morning of the 25th, our quarters for the
winter did not present a very cheering aspect ; nor could
this, in any degree, remove the depression still univer-
sally felt amongst us. The weather was cold and raw,
with light, variable winds from W. and S.W., and
subsequently from the northward. Loose sailing ice
was gradually streaming into the bay, with large
spaces of water intervening ; and, as the temperature
ranged from 21° to 24°, young ice had formed on the
water around us.- The pack could be seen off the
entrance of the bay ; but , no doubt, ice of the same
loose character, as that in the bay, extended for some
distance into it. Our position at noon was ascertained,
by obsei'vation, to be in lat. 74° 6' N. long. 117° 55' W.

The sails were unbent, and other preparations
made for housing in ; so that the idea of again ven-
turing out, under any circumstances, was at once
abandoned. The pack was still stationary on the 26th,
and made no further encroachment on the bay. A
few Seals and several Ducks were seen — the latter on
the wing going to the southward. A strong westerly
gale set in on Sunday the 28th; had it been our
good fortune to have entered the pack, this would
have borne us far to the eastward, as the ice
was seen rapidly setting in that direction. The
Aurora Borcahs of considerable brilliancy, was observed

i^e had then

ters for the
t ; nor could
still univer-
Id and raw,

S.W., and
! sailing ice
with large
emperature
med on the
een off the
f the same
id for some
iscertained,
L17°55'W.
reparations

again ven-
is at once
n the 26th,
e bay. A
le latter on
ig westerly

been our
this would
,s the ice
ion. The
IS observed

REDUCTION OP PROVISIONS. 467

for the first time on the night of the 29th, extending
east and west to the southward of our position. As
the ship was at this date firmly frozen in, the anchors
were hove up and secured. On the 30th, the tempera-
ture fell to 1°. and thus passed our second September
in these regions-a month no less eventful than that
ot the previous year.

From the 1st of October, the rigour of an Arctic
wmter may be fairly said to commence. The tern-
porature had Men to 4°; aU om: preparations for
nousmg m were completed, and the same routine
established that had previously been attended with
such beneficial results. It was at this time deemed
necessary to place us on two-thirds aUowance of pro-
visions; the loss of beef we had sustained on first
entering the ice, and the d(3p6t left at the Princess
Itoyal Islands having very considerably curtailed the
quantity on board. The reduction of provisions after
two seasons' sojourn in the Polar Sea is an experiment
more or less hazardous, considering the exigencies
and ngour of a climate that urgently demands a very
liberal supply of animal food for man's sustenance;
not only to maintain unimpaired his physical power]
but to enable him to resist the inroads of that terrible'
scourge of icy seas (scurvy), which under less favour-
able cu-cumstances is certain to appear. The full
scale of victuaUing allowed on Polar service, has for
Its basis, one pound of meat daily-salt beef, pork and
preserved meat on alternate days, with a fair pro-

H H 2

468

THE NORTB-WEST PASSAGE.

i I

portion of flour and preserved vegetables. This in a
temperate climate is sufficient to maintain the body
in a state of health and efficiency, even when engaged
in labourious occupation. As the same allowance of
meat is issued whether at the Equator or the Poles,
it is but fair to assume, that if it be consumed at the
former, a larger allowance is certainly required to
resist the trying climate of the latter. Experience
enables me to state that men are less capable of
resisting the eflFects of cold the second year in Polar
regions, than they are the first ; and so on for every
subsequent year of their sojourn— for reasons suffi-
ciently obvious. Their state of body is either at, or
above par from the effects of wholesome diet and fresh
vegetable food on first entering the ice, which enables
them to generate heat sufficient to meet the exigencies
of climate ; and what the allowance of food fails to
supply in carbonized material, is taken from other
sources within the system. Hence, on the second
year, these resources are not so abundant, and a
larger instead of smaller quantity of the original
allowance of food, is necessary to generate heat, to
say nothing of making up the deficiency. If the
supply is not equal to the demand, the body wastes,
and debility and disease of a scorbutic character
ultimately ensue. I am, therefore, of opinion that
one pound of animal food daily is not sufiicient for
men employed on Polar service. For one year, its
effects may not be much felt, but to enable men to

POLAR DIET.

This in a
in the body
en engaged
llowance of
* the Poles,
med at the
squired to
Experience
capable of
ar in Polar
a for every
sons suffi-
ther at, or
; and fresh
ch enables
exigencies
od fails to
'om other
be second
it, and a
! original
e heat, to
If the
ly wastes,
character
nion that
icient for
year, its
le men to

469

go through a second year and remain efficient, a
larger allowance, I consider, absolutely imperative.
In support of this opinion, I may state that a higher
standard of health is always found to exist amongst
the officers in Polar service, than the men; no doubt
trom their having a larger and more varied quantity
of food furnished from their private mess stock, which
better enables them to maintain the heat of body, and
thereby resist the attacks of disease. In addition to
which, the greater degree of comfort they enjoy, from
better accommodation and inhalation of a purer
atmosphere than what is found on the lower deck
enables them to enjoy a greater immunity from dC
sease. I always observed in my inspections, that the
general health of officers was better than that of the
men, and they were the last to manifest any symptoms
of scurvy. Salt meat should be proscribed from an
Arctic dietary, as it is calculated to promote what
should be prevented-impairment of the vital energy-
diminution of the physical powers from defective
nutrition, and the consequent supervention of scurvy
and debility. Food possessing the most highly
carbonized qualities, should alone be supplied to
Polar expeditions-such as pemmican, preserved meats
and bacon-the latter can be preserved in a nearly
fresh state, or at least with such a small proportion
of salt as not to be detrimental. It forms an
agreeable change when varied with the articles I have
mentioned, and in sledge traveUing it was always

470

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

much relished, and sustained men well under arduous
exertion. Tea, cocoa and coffee are ever gladly sought
after, and are in my opinion much preferable to
spirituous liquors, in Polar service; but sound malt
liquor (ale and porter) are universally rehshed, and
form a beverage no less agreeable than wholesome,
from the nutritious and anti-scorbutic properties which
they possess. With a liberal daily supply of these
articles, and a proportionate quantity of ascescent
fruits and vegetables, with due observance of other
sanitary agencies and regulations— particularly the
promotion of hilarity, cheerfulness and amusement,
and the avoidance of all depressing causes— a body of
men may be maintained in such a state of health and
efficiency as cannot fail to prove no less satisfactory
than compensating.

The first few days of October presented no feature
of interest. As it was an object to let the decks
have the fuU benefit of Ught and air as long as
possible, the hatches were still kept open; the
temperature between decks was, therefore, cold and
uncomfortable, no fires being allowed until a more
advanced period of the season. We consequently sat
in a temperature from eight to ten degrees below
freezing point, which at night was lower; ice collected
in large quantities in our cabins, imparting to them
an attractive glistening aspect, not quite compatible
with comfort, chilling to look at, resembling, in fact, an
icy grotto j but on any slight elevation of temperature

EPFBCTS OF COLD.

471

from artificial warmth, sufficient to cause it to thaw, it
descended in the form of rain— thus establishing a stite
scarcely allowing even a small degree of personal
comfort. Hoar frost coUected on the beard and
blankets at night, which not unfrequently attached
them to each other. During the day, I was often
unable to write from the ink freezing in my pen, and
water or lime juice kept standing on the mess table
became immediately frozen. The cold is more
severely felt at this season between decks, than at a
more advanced period of the winter, when the housing
is on, the hatches closed, and fires lighted; indeed,
one is obliged to keep the body almost continuaUy
m motion to resist its effects. Exercise is then
the order of the day, as antagonistic to it; and
the charms possessed by the folds of the blankets
were also duly appreciated. Hunger then becomes
urgent, and the want of food severely felt.

On the morning of the 4th, Mr. Court, with
a sledge and party of six men, provisioned for
six days, was despatched along the coast to the
north-east, with a view of connecting our posi-
tion with that of the furthest point reached by
Lieutenant Cresswell— which we then knew must have
been more to the eastward than at first supposed--
where a cairn had been erected, and a cylinder, with a
record, deposited. The ice being in a good state for
travelling in the Bay, we expected his early return.
The winds continued for the most part southerly,

472

THE NORTH-WEST PA88AQE.

With all that gloomy aspect of weather which ever
attends the close of the season ; a cold, raw atmosphere,
dense fogs, with snow. The 7th was a day of unusual
excitement amongst us, and afforded several occur-
rences of much interest and importance, although
widely different in chai-acter.

At 3.30 P.M., Mr. Court and party returned on
board, after their short excursion to the north-east;
but was unfortunately unable to discover the cairn of
which he went in search. That he had reached the
locality there could exist no doubt, as he was accora-
panied by an intelligent and trustworthy petty officer
(John Calder), under whose superintendence it had
been erected, and who felt quite certain as to the
position. It was remarked, however, that the land
had since slipped in several situations, the disap-
pearance of the cairn might, therefore, be satisfactorily
accounted for.

From this point of coast, about eleven miles distant
from the ship, Mr. Court intended to have gone
further to the eastward, but his progress was entirely
cut oflP hy an expanse of open water, extending from
the shore to the northward and eastward, as far as he
could see. The distance embraced by his range of
vision from an elevated position he estimated at eleven
miles, with a water sky beyond it, and no trace of
tee to be seen in that direction. The water was with-
m eight miles of our position, extending off Point
Back to the westward also for some distance, until

liich ever
lospherc,
' unusaal
1 occur-
altbough

iraed on
rth-east ;
cairn of
:hed the

accora-
y officer

it had

to the
he land

disap-
Bctorily

distant
e gone
entirely
g from
r as he
inge of

eleven
'ace of
3 with-

Point
, until

UNEXPECTED INTELLIGENCE. 473

finally lost in the pack. This was indeed tantalizing, if
not vexatious intelligence, as we were frozen in within
eight miles of it. The most sanguine amongst us
were astonished, as we could not possibly have ex-
pected such a favorable state of things. It more than
verified the opinion I had some days before recorded
m my journal, and have already made known in these
pages. It may, therefore, readily be supposed how
sad were our reflections, as we were bitterly con-
scious that had we taken advantage of the easterly
current, and entered the pack, we should then have
been on our way to England- instead of wintering in
Mercy Bay.

The outline of Melville Island was also faintly dis-
cerned by this officer, from the highest elevation ho
attamed, (about 300 feet) and there is eveiy reason
to mfer that the wide expanse of water which lay
before him, would have led uninterruptedly to its
shores.

We had, however, some gratifying intelligence, to
lessen, m some degree, our chagrin and disappointment.
A party of our men, that were rambling over the
neighbouring hills, (unfortunately they had no fire-
arms,) came on board, reporting a large herd of Rein-
deer—which they computed at fifty or sixty— this in-
formation was indeed welcome. We lost not a
moment in equipping ourselves for the chase, and a
party of seven, of which I formed one, started in
pursuit. We got on their tracks about two miles

474

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

from the ship, and steadily kept them in view for two
hours, having gone over a great extent of country ;
until darkness set in, and further pursuit would have
been useless. We accordingly retraced our steps, but
the increasing darkness not enabling us to follow our
outward foot-marks on the snow, and being as yet
unfamiliar with the land, we lost our way. The moon
soon afterwards rising, guided us to the ship, which
we reached towards midnight, after a very toilsome
march.

A small party, which had gone to the bottom of
the bay in the morning, on coming into the neigh-
bourhood of a high and remarkable table-hill, forming
a prominent feature in our dreary landscape, from its
appearance called " the Bluff," saw an immense nu? i
ber of Hares, three of which they shot; they were
only provided with one gun, having no expectation of
meeting any game. To compensate us for not meet-
ing with the Reindeer, we were greeted with this
pleasing intelligence on our arrival. It was, therefore,
evident that there was abundance of game in our
viciniLy. We then erroneously beUeved that these
animals migrated to the southward on the approach
of winter, and were then collecting in herds for the
journey. We still hoped, however, to diminish their
numbers before they took their departure, and for the
remainder of the night preparations were made to
renew the chase.

At 5 o'clock on the morning of the 8th, a large

A REINDEER KILLED.

475

party started in pursuit of the Deer, following up
our course of the previous evening, and another
smaller one proceeded in quest of the Hares. The
former had not proceeded far beyond our turning
pomt, when they saw a large herd, and subsequently
several smaller ones ; they were very shy and difficult
to approach, and to men, whose eagerness in the
chase much exceeded their skiU, the success attending
their efforts was not great-one fine buck alone con!
stituted the trophy of the day. The ice mate,
(Mr. Newton) to his credit I record it, was the for-
tunate sportsman who killed this, the first Reindeer.
From the number on the ground we might naturally
have expected greater results, but time, experience,
and necessity made us aU better sportsmen. A sledge
was dispatched, and our prize received on board with
aJl honour. He was larger than any subsequently
shot, weighing 240 pounds, which afforded us 160
pounds of venison in splendid condition, everywhere
covered with a fine coating of fat. Lest we should
not be so fortunate as to kUl another, he was
reserved to cheer our board on Christmas Day. As
I shaU have occasion to speak frequently of these
animals in connection with the narrative, I will here
give a brief discription of them.

The Reindeer (Cervus Tarandus) is an inhabitant
of the northern regions of i^urope, Asia, America
and the islands of the Polar Sea. In Asia it extendi
further to the south, than in Europe, ranging along

476

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the Ural chain to the foot of the Caucasian mountains.
In America they are most abundant between tiio
65° and 09° north lat.-their southern limit is
not accurately defined, they having been seen as
far south as 50°, while to the northward as high
as the 78th parallel, and in Spitzbergen as high
as 80°.

It has hitherto been the generally received opinion,
that these animals migrate to the southward on the'
approach of winter, to lands where the cold is less
intense, and the pasturage more abundant— an
opinion formed from the writings of the distinguished
Polar voyagers, who formerly wintered amid the icy
solitudes of the north; but the experience of four
winters enables me to speak from the result of ob-
servation, in contradiction to this. In the Prince of
Wales Strait, Reindeer were seen in January— our dis-
tant position from the shore not enabling us to hunt
during the winter, and in the Bay of Mercy, for two
successive winters— they were constant inhabitants of
the land, and were killed throughout the winter
months of the coldest season in the records of Arctic
voyaging. How far the migratory habits of the
animal may be established in a more southern
latitude, on the coast of America, in their instinctive
resort to localities where pasturage may be more
abundant, I shaU not attempt to decide; but this
I will say, that from the more distant lands of the
Polar Sea, they do not migrate on the approach of

REINDEER.

477

Winter, but remain their constant inhabitants. I
have remarked, however, that as the season of thaw
sets m (May and June,) coeval with the calvin-
of the Does, these, generally resort to the ravines
and valleys bordering the coast, where the pasturage
IS so much more abundant. The requirements of the
animal for the support of its young become urgent
obliging It to desert the higher, but more barren and
stony lands for a locality whepe Nature's wants are
more plentifully supplied.

From the period of entering this bay, until the
abandonment of the ship in the summer of 1853 we
kUled one hundred and twelve. A few skins were
preserved, and several of the viscera, together with
various sebtional preparations of the antlers in differ-
ent stages of growth, as illustrative of its rapidity ; in
the hope of elucidating one of the most surprising
processes of animal growth, which bounteous Nature
enables us to contemplate, as evidencing her wonder-
ful reproductive powers.

These animals vary in size according to age and
other circumstances. The largest we got gave a nett
weight of 240 lbs., which yielded 164 lbs. meat, and
the smallest shot, only 32 lbs., the average weight,
however, of the entire number was 70| lbs. The flesh,'
when procured in the autumn, is of the most delicious
flavour and quality, tender, juicy, light, and easy of
digestion— far surpassing the venison of this couutry—
and covered with a good coating of fat. It under-

478

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

goes a marked change, however, as the winter
advances, and in the following spring and summer,
the animal becomes lean and poor, and the flesh dry
and insipid, until the more abundant pasturage of the
summer again brings it into improved condition, which
is always best in October. They are generally shy
and timid, and very difficult of approach, and it is
only when all means of escape are cut off, and the
animal wounded, that the bucks wiU evince signs of
hostility to the hunter, or their great enemy the Wolf,
by attempting to use their antlers in their defence.'
The calving season, as far as my observation enables
me to judge, is in June; prior to, and coeval with
which the bucks shed their antlers, which appear to
be again entirely reproduced in the latter end of
August, and early in September. The colour of the
animal is in winter pure white, with a patch of light
brown on the back ; but in the summer it becomes
extended, covering both back and sides partially—the
remainder maintaining the pure white of the winter.
When much hunted, they become exceedingly shy,
and it is only by the exercise of the utmost strategic
skill, that the hunter can then hope to get within
range. In first meeting, an instinctive curiosity
leads them, unwarily to approach the wily hunter,
and thus become his prey. They are, as it were,
fascinated by the novel appearance of man, in the
dreary wilds, where his form has never before been
seen. From this circumstance I infer that the

REINDEER.

479

success of a party is likely to be greater, by changing
their hunting ground from time to time, rather than by
remammg stationary among animals, rendered wild
by his presence ; as they do not appear to make
extensive wanderings from certain circmnscribed
localities.

They generally graze with their heads to the wind
and so habitual is their instinct, that after the preva^
lence of strong winds, we generally hunted in the
direction whence they had blown, with the greater
certamty of meeting them. On the approach of
winter, the fur of the Reindeer becomes veiy dense
Sir John Richardson informs us, « that the skin
when dressed with the hair on it, is so impervious
to the cold, that if clothed in a suit of this material
and wrapped in a mantle of the same, a person may
bivouac all night in the snow with safety during the
mtensity of an Arctic winter." Such admirable
covering for the inhabitants of the Arctic regions is
therefore, inestimable; and these skins are univer'
sally used for this purpose. In hunting, we met with
the greatest degree of success in the four first months
of the year, when the animal, tamed by cold and
hunger, could be more easily approached.

A party, consisting of an officer and six men
accompanied by myself, were despatched to the top of
the Bay, where the Hares had been seen, and distant
from the ship about five miles. Although many more
were seen, and a few shot, we found great difficulty

480

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

i ' ;

in getting within range— so wild had they become
since the previous day. On the 9th, there were no
less than twenty-five guns abroad, and, as a matter of
course, great destruction to the Deer was anticipated;
but towards the close of day, as we successively
returned on board, our expectations were not realized
—one small Deer being the only product of the chase.
A Wolf was seen by one of the party in chase of a
Deer, but defied his best efforts to get a shot. From
the accounts of the several groups of sportsmen, scat-
tered over a wide extent of land, the Deer were
reported as abundant, and still keeping in our
vicinity. We, therefore, indulged in the pleasing
hope of procuring more abundant supplies— a duty
on which we were all then eagerly bent, and were
much favoured by the weather, being cold and clear
—the temperature rang^ing from zero to 20° above
it.

On the 10th, shooting parties, consisting of six men,
were organized and dispatched inland on either side
of the bay, with a week's provisions, to encamp where
the game might appear most abundant— considering
that our chances of success would be much greater
by being always on the spot. A party was also
sent in charge of Mr. Sainsbury (Mate) to examine
an inlet at the south end of the bay, which ap-
peared to extend inland for some distance ; but he
returned the following day after having explored it
for twelve miles, when it ended in a marsh. Instead

■ A

WOLVES.

481

of Its proving an ,nlet. as was supposed, it was merely

"T, ■ '"*° '"^'"^ "■« ^''"■^"t^' ^tended for a
hort distance. It appeared to be a favourite resort
for animals and water fowl in the summer season
from the numerous tracks that were seen. About
9r.M we were greeted for the first time with the
dismal and p.tcous howling of Wolves; three or four
had approached close to the ship, and were seen by
one of the men who happened to be on the ice at the
ime. They were evidently on the track of Deer, as
their v«it was a hasty one, and did not afford us the
chance of a shot. On the following day, I encountered
this pack, and with my companion hunted them for a
long distance, but could not get nearer than 500 or 600
yards ; they were still following on the track of Deer
It IS a very beautiful sight to view a herd of Reindeer
bounding over these wild and dreary snow-covcrcd
regions, and equaUy so to observe the watchful care
ever manifested by the older bucks for the nre
servation of the herd. These animals, on seeing
something suspicious in appearance, separate from tht
rest, that are left in charge of another buck, who
keeps them together while they advance towards the
objec ; this they en.Ieavour to keep between them
and the wmd, so as to make their keen sense of smell
available m the reconnmsance. If they have not been
previously much hunted, they will sometimes approach
withm good range for a shot ; otherwise they will
observe a greater distance, where they will stand

I !

482

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

gazing at the hunter, who generally prostrates himself
on the snow as they advance ; when satisfied by their
strong instinctive feeling of the threatened danger, they
instantly take to flight, rejoin the herd, who are all
this time interesting spectators of the scene, and the
next moment are bounding over the hills—the old
bucks leading and flanking the herd; thereby pre-
serving a close and well-ordered flight.

s himself
by their
ger, they
10 are all
and the
-the old
eby pre-

REINDEER HUNTING.

483

CHAPTER XIX.

The Hunting-Weather-Incidents of Sport-Wolves-A Night
Cht I-^r °%r'"^ Parties-Produce of fh
WeleT T U ' f-ts-Inspection of the Cre.-
Weather--L.ghtnu3g-Incidents-Change of Temperature
- Departure of the Sun-Winter Preparations-Occupa-
to -Arctic Currency-Barometric Changes-Weather a
December Gale-Christmas Day.

We continued daily in zealous prosecution of the
hunting, with various degrees of success. In all
directions we were afforded pleasing evidence of the
presence of Reindeer, and felt quite satisfied they
would remain near us for the winter. Hares, Foxes
and Parmigan were also seen, and frequently shot •
so that, although we were on a reduced allowance of
prov,sions we hoped that our efforts in the chase
would enable us to supply the deficiency.

Towards the middle of October, the weather became
altered m character. The fir.t half of this month, as
in the previous year, was fine, and fully justified the
appellation it has received, of the second summer-

I i2

484

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

known in North America as the 'Indian summer.'
It was, at this time, succeeded by snow and fog, and the
atmosphere surcharged with moisture, indicated open
water to the northward and eastward. Dense, dark
clouds were also observed in those quarters, and as the
temperature had kept high, we could not but believe
that it had been a most favourable season for navi-
gating the sea to the eastward, in the direction of
Barrow Strait.

A Reindeer was shot on the 16th, and left on the
land for the night. On sending a sledge party for it
on the following morning, they found five Wolves
regaling themselves on the body. They took to
flight on their approach, and a musket which had
been placed over the animal by the hunter, as if to
inform them of its being private property, had been
carried by them a short distance, that they might
suffer no interruption to their feast. We were at this
time, and, indeed, through the winter,, much annoyed
by these animals. They excited our ire extremely,
and any sacrifice would willingly have been made for
the pleasure of shooting one of them ; but we hunted
them in vain — their cowardice being only equalled
by their voracity. They had rendered the Deer wild
and shy to a degree, thus interfering largely with our
sport — if one was killed, and could not be brought on
board, the chances were against its not being devoured
in the morning; and they serenaded the ship at night,
with the most dismal howling I have ever heard.

AN ADVENTURE.

485

This disturbed us very much, and many an hour did
we lay m ambush on the snow, in hopes of shooting
those wily and treacherous brutes.

The incidents of sport that daily occurred to us
were very numerous, and the interest and pleasure
derived from their narration, always produced agree-
able excitement, and tended much to cheer our long
and solitary nights. On the 16th, a seaman, attached
to one of the shooting parties on shore, when in eager
pursuit of two Musk Oxen, separated from his com-
panions ; as night and darkness soon afterwards set
m, he lost his way, and was unable to regain the tent.
He was consequently obliged to keep moving about
dunng the night, to maintain warmth; and he sub-
sequently described his situation in quaint and
amusing terms, as being far from pleasant. He was
at one time surrounded by several Wolves, at which
he had fired all his ammunition, consisting of three
cartndges, but without effect. Nor did they feel dis-
posed to leave him for some time. In thi. state he
was obliged to move about, ready to act on the
defensive with his knife and musket, as long as he
could use either. He had not been long free from
their company, when a Bear made its appearance
which he thought did not see him. He expressed, in
rapturous terms, the relief he experienced when day-
hght came, and enabled him to reach the tent fagcred
and exhausted, with far from pleasing reminiscences
ot the night's adventure. It was fortunate that the

486

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

temperature rose that night higher than it had been for
some time before or subsequently ; otherwise the poor
fellow must have paid dearly for his zeal in the chase.
Every eflFort was made to find him, by the tent party
during the night, in vain.

On the 23rd, the last of the shooting parties arrived
on board, and we were gratified to find that by our
united exertions, we had procured nine Reindeer,
thirty-six Hares, and about forty Ptarmigan ; a very
nice stock of fresh meat, with which to commence the
winter, and rendered even more acceptable, from its
being unexpected In addition to its intrinsic value
to us as fresh provisions, the exertions required to
procure it afibrded agreeable and healthful excitement,
interrupted the monotony of our daily lives, tended to
prolong the autumnal season, and to dispel much of
the winter's gloom. One might sometimes wander
about for days in succession, without seeing a trace
of animal life ; yet the pursuit kept the mind in a state
of buoyancy, which, sustained by hope, and occa-
sional success, assisted in antagonizing the depressing
effects arising from the darkness of an Arctic winter.
The fresh meat was issued once a week in lieu of
ship's provisions, and I have no doubt contributed to
the maintenance of health— it was anxiously looked
for, from the pleasant change it afforded to the
ordinary fare. To the sick it was very acceptable, and
of great benefit.

On the 26th, the anniversary of our discovery of the

III ' '\

INSPECTION or THE CHEW.

487

Passage was celebrated in a very simple and humble
maimer, by an extra allowance of spirits to the men,
on whom It exercised its usual hilarious and cheerful
influence, and made the conversation of the evening
flow very freely on the lower deck.

On the 37th I took advantage of the last daylight
I should have, for my inspection of the ship's com.
pany, and was gratified by the result ; as I found them
in a state of health and efficiency-a few appeared to
have lost flesh a little, but there was an entire absence
of anythmg of a scorbutic character. I felt it my
duty, at the same time, to represent that such a
favourable state could not possibly exist long, on the
reduced allowance of provisions on which they had
been placed.

Nothing of interest occurred for the remainder of
the month. The mean temperature having been
three degrees higher than the previous October,
although we were two degrees further to the north'
ward, for which the assumed existence of open water
to the north-east would readily account. The Aurora
Borealis was frequently visible, but always less
brilliant than we had observed further south.

Strong north-westerly winds ushered in the 1st of
November, with frequent squalls, and snow-drift, and
the temperature ranging from 9° to 4° (below zero).
The sun had not shewn himself for some days, and as
the period of his departure drew nigh, we began to
doubt whetlier we should again be favoured with his

488

THB NORTU-WEST PASSAGE.

presencc-so generally dark and cloudy had the

weather become. Towards midnight on the 3rd, the

officer on watch (Mr. Wynniatt), reported that he

, saw a flash of sheet-lightning in the north-west, and

two men who where on deck qt the time, fully corro-

borated the statement. I am not aware that lightning

has before been seen in such a high latitude at this

season, with the temperature at — l 0°; and consider the

phenomenon worthy of being recorded. The sky was

quite dark, both before and after its appearance, nor

was there the slightest gleam of Aurora visible.

Our guns were stiU daily in requisition, and a few
Ptarmigan were occasionally added to the stock. The
smaller game became the perquisite of the hunter,
and always proved an acceptable addition to his
mess ; when a Deer was killed, he became entitled to
the head and heart—a much coveted prize, and a
powerful incentive to exertion in the chase. Deer were
frequently seen crossing on the ice from land to land,
generally pursued by Wolves, which had become at
this time very audacious, and were our constant nightly
visitors. They came quite close to the ship, but
baffled our best efforts, although frequently fired at.

On the 4th, two of the men, who had gone on a
shooting excursion, not having returned at 6 p.m., we
became uneasy at their absence, as the Wolves were
heard mournfully howling far and near. Rockets
were fired as signals, and were answered by the
discharge of a musket. One of the men soon after-

„/

DEPARTURE OF THE 8BN. 459

wards made hi, appearance, informing „, that he was

obhged to leave his eompanion on the iee, in a sta^

o exhaust.o„ from fatigue, and want of food. „d

had Imstened onward for assistance. A party wei^

|mmed,atcly dispatched, and in the course of an IZ

he was brought on board ; he recovered on receiving

some warm food. Had the Wolves come ae Jhi!

path, his doom would have been sealed, as he was

quite incapable of offering the slightest resistance

The morning of the 7th was clear and calm but a

south.weste.:ygale set in in the course of the day «i!

baron^eter having previously foretold the change 'an

n the short space of two hours (from 2 to 4 p.m the

temperature rose from -18= to -P. „„d ;„ j^^'Vour

loo? '" ^'° "'" ^''y»t '>>-™e time

cloudy aad overcast; but from 10 p.m. to midnight
It again fell to -8°. These changes succeedfl
each other ■„ such a short space of time, were rathef
-markable, which we attributed to the influence of he
warm air brought up by the wind from the southwa^I
Ih depression of temperature at midnight was nothing
more than what usmdly occurs at this period of th!
day : for on the following day with the continuance „f
the wmd It rose to its previous maximum +8° and
fell next day. as a northerly wind set in. A richly tinted
*y to the westward foretold the sun's appearance
His upper limb became visible in gorgeous^X
towi^ds noon, but soon afterwards sunk to rise no
""" """ y"- »■> the dreary region of our abode

><\

490

THE NORTH-WEST PA 88 A OK.

disappearing from our view amid the richest tints of
crimson and gold, such as can only be seen in a Polar
sky, through its atmosphere of extreme purity. Dark-
ness had thus again enshrouded us, and until the re-
appearance of this great luminary, monotony and dull
routine were to become once more our lot in these
cheeriess solitudes. We were thankful, however, for
the resources our position afforded us, when we
reflected how truly miserable it would have been
without thera.

On the 1 0th, the ship was housed in ; the snow
embankment was commenced, and other prepara-
tions completed, such as I have previously detailed.
As we had been then nearly two years depending on
our own resources, the want of tailors, bootmakers,
and such other essential agents to the comfort of men,
became apparent; they, however, were wonderfully
well supplied— necessity developing new talents in
our crew. During the previous winter they had
attained such a degree of excellence in these and other
trades, that it was quite surprising to see the ad-
mirable work they could turn out of hand, ^^ ithout
having had any previous knowledge of the handicraft.
Tradesmen thus became established in the ship;
as elsewhere, their custom was proportionate to
the reputation they enjoyed for the excellence of their
workmanship ; and both officers and men had their
favourites whom they employed. To remunerate them
became the next object for our consideration ; but we

ARCTIC CURRENCY.

491

''^onT"^- t 'f ^°"" ''^P ""'"'^^ •'"Ok -or
accounts. We, therefore, determined to establish a

adopted as the c.rculatmg medium-the sum due was
marked on one of them, with the initials of theTffiler
who c«„t„„,ed the debt, which ensu J L ^n"
nego^ble throughout the ship. Numbe. of J

mZrlT; r P""" f"" '■"-'J to hand

eurievin , ' "' ""'"' '" ^'«>rt' ''»''- the
currency ,n all monetarjr transactions, and were dniv

honoured when nresentpd ft,- „ . ^

to England -nu^ " . "' P"^"™' ™ »" return
"77; P''« industrious artificer was weU re
munera ted for his work, by the handsome sum he hTd
accumulated during this and subsequent yea^. '"'
A black Fox (Cani^Argentatus) was observed by one
of our men on the Uth. about a mile from tlx- shTn
the first we had vet <,«.„ • .i P'

account „f .I,- • , ' ""'' " ""''* » ''"'orded

orth m any former voyages; but the p„,bab,iity of
thcnr existmg here ha. ..ot been questioned. ^

Read„,g eonstitutcd our principal amusement and
we b^nn to fe„. that our assiduity would deprL u

Tn J n t yiT'J '"""'"' '- ^P»'' another

pern d ofH M , "'"''' "™ ''""'■ •»>* -^- re-
perused, oft.told stones retold again and again with

a semblance of fiovelty which they could only Is! '
from the utter dearth of anything new or sfran!
These were pleasantly enlarged, embelhshed.a^d
v..ncd by the tact and ingenuity of the narrator, and

moi

492

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

always proved acceptable to the attentive listeners.
Some indulged in what would- be considered draw-
ing-room occupations, such as fine needlework, knit-
ting, crochet, making little repairs to mits and caps,
cutting out patterns to impart some new idea to the
tailor, and many other little occupations suggested by
circumstances aud our own ingenuity. The slightest
incident or occurrence in or out of the ship was gladly
seized on merely to excite a subject of comment or
conversation, to promote the great object in view of
" killing time ;" and rejoiced did we feel when came
the hour of retiring to rest, to think that another
long and gloomy Arctic day had passed.

Few incidents of consequence occurred for some
days— from the 12th to the 15th, numerous meteors
were observed to the southward, shooting for the
most part in a south-east direction ; the effect of which
was very beautiful in a clear, cloudless sky. On the
22nd, a Bear was seen approaching the ship from the
north-east. This immediately set us all in motion,
eager to share in the agreeable excitement it promised,'
and our guns were in instant requisition. A few of us
took up a position under cover of a snow wall close to
the ship awaiting his approach; but when Bruin was
about 200 yards distant, some of the men incautiously
exposed themselves to view, when he turned and at
once started off in the direction whence he came. It
was a young Bear, and although we did not succeed
in making him oiu- prize, his visit afforded us a topic

BAROMETRIC CHANGES.

493

of conversation and debate for the day-so gladly did
we welcome new events. November came to a close
unmarked by any other features of interest. The
weather had been colder but less boisterous than this
nptunthepreviousyear,showingamean temperature
or-15 2. 1 he usual winter atmospheric phenomena
were present-the barometers rose to a great height on
several occasions, and showed indications contrary to
those generally observed under the same influence in
temperate climates. On the I4th, during a calm with
occasional hght northerly winds, and a temperature
oi— ^U , the marme barometer rose to 30.74 inches
the aneroid to 31.50, the extreme of its graduation'
and sympiesometer correspondingly high-a natural
consequence from the character of the wind and
weather. Whereas from the 27th to the 30th, during
the prevalence of southerly winds, with a cloudy
overcast sky and snow, andT^ith a temperature varying

fr ~'T '" ~''°' *^^^ '"^ ^^^^"^ ^« ^^'gh «« on the
14th; and, contrary to usual observation, the tempera-
ture fell mstead of rising with the soutl-^rly mnds •
which may be attributed to these winds having lost all
their warmth in blowing over such a vast extent of
snow-covered land to the southward.

The last and darkest month of the twelve (De-
cember) again presented itself, ushered in with a
soutlierly gale of five days' duration, which in length
and violence exceeded any former one we had
experienced in these regions. During the first two days

494

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

the temperature and barometers remained as I have
mentioned at the close of the month, but on the third
the former rose to zero, and the latter began steadily
to fall, although the wind continued from the same
quarter. On the 4th, it blew with hurricanic force ;
we dared not show ourselves from beneath the housing,
as the howling tempest swept over us with pitiless
furj'— we expected every moment to see it carry away
our well-secured covering— and the atmosphere was
one dense mass of snow-drift. Melancholy would
then have been the fate of those exposed to its fniy
in these regions, without the shelter of a ship— a
thought ever present to our minds on such occasions,
in connection vidth the missing Expedition. On the
5th, it moderated, when we were enabled to view the
state of matters outside; we found that a snow-
wreath, thirteen feet high, had accumulated about the
ship ; the weight of which caused the ice to sink, as
our embankment had given way from her side. No
damage was sustained, but the appearance of the
•Investigator' was truly Arctic in character, she
being almost buried in snow. The drift had collected
on every part of her— from the truck to the ice
beneath, there was not a speck of black anywhere to
be seen. During the height of the gale, a Wolf was
seen a few yards from the gangway, standing on the
snow— doubtless severely pressed by hunger, otherwise
he would not have manifested such tameness. He
went off on seeing the door opened, before we could

CHKISTMAS DAY.

495

nv^-tl V ?^ tliey often came on board

over the embankment, or by the gangway, with great
freedom m quest of food, and frequently risked their
hves by the.r temerity, as they were eanght in traps
set for them on deck. "

This month was singularly barren of incidents, and
dark and gloomy to a degi«. Shooting had been in
great measure discontinued, and the occasional halo
of moon or Paraselenae, with faint glimpses of the
Aurora, were the only objects to cheer us. The
advent of th >-.tice told us that one half of the
dark days had passed. Our second Christmas on the
lee was gladly welcomed, and passed like the preceding
one-each doing his utmost to give it as muc'- , .
cheerful character as circumstances and our resoi^rces
would admit. We regaled ourselves with the fine
fat buck that was shot early in the season, and in the
cheenng cup wished om^elves, as we hod done before
that this might be the last we were fated to spend
withm the Arctic circle. The few remaining days of
1851 came and passed without the slightest incident
to call tor observation.

406

THE NOUTII-VVEST PASSAGE.

CHAPTER XX.

First day of 1852--Health of the Crew— Appearance of Rein-
deer — One killed — An Incident of Sport and Results-
Return of the Sun— Incidents and Events— Absence of three
Men— Fears entertained— Their return— Reindeer Hunting-
Its Hardships and Difficulties— Sanitary State in April-
Adventure with Wolves— Departure of a Party for Melville
Island— Incidents— Appearance of Scurvy— Weather— Return
of the Party- Their Journey and Results— Disappointment-
State of the Ice— State of the Men on their return— Weather
— Results of the Hunting — Appearance of Snow-Geese—
Other Birds— Order of their Arrival and Departure.

With the year 1852 commenced the third of the
ship's commission, and if the two previous ones had
been fertile in incident and adventure, we fondly
hoped that the present one would prove different from
either, by favouring our escape from the Polar Sea.

The state of health we enjoyed up to this period
was very satisfactory. The inspection of the crew
enabled mc to report as favourably as on the last occa-
sion—they evidently having derived much benefit
from the excellence and nutritious properties of the

Till! NEW TEAR.

497

« n,„a., which h„,I thus boon issued every fifth
% for a po„„d of t„, „„„,^^ 2 Zh

Ihe New Year's day was made a festive one hv fh„

js^e of ext^aliowauees of provisions,!: r^J:
best to welcome the New Yeir whh , ,

f.iiv, . '*^ ^"" tts much chppr

It was as here,! in with light southerly winds and ^'
tensely eold weather. On the 3rd tl,„ f

*nfron,43o,ntheisr,;i;^trrr:::st^

incessant frost-hites on the len.f .v ""' ^""''"^

ward, that confined us to tiie ship, as we eould not for

; "7™' '"^"^ -' "Sai-t it with safety, d„.l" su^
low temperatures. ' ^ ""''

Our exeursions whieh had never been interrunted
wore soon ,„ade more extended, and on the h 'two
lieiudeer were seen a short way inland Tl if I I
t.h^ofo,.arly.,pp^^^^^^

lor some tune been exhausted. On the I4H, f
™o« were observed f.,n the ship, andt;"!::

K K

498

THE NOllTH-WEST PASSAGE.

^mm

11! I-
rj : ' ,1.:' ! I

i ' i1

antlers, were not those seen two days previously. They
were pursued by a few of us, and once fired at
without effect ; the intensity of the cold and preva-
lence of a breeze at last obliged us to return to the
ship, after having been frost-bitten in face and fingers.
From this date they were noticed almost every day th.-it
we could venture out, in greater or less numbers .
several were wounded without our being able, from
various causes, to follow up the chase, as the dim
twilight in which we hunted was not conducive to our
success. We had, nevertheless, some very exciting
sport in their pursuit— no opportunity being ever
lost of following up the chase with a degree of spirit
and energy, worthy of being recorded. This was only
relinquished when darkness, snow-drift, or when semi-
paralyzed from cold, we were obliged to return to
the ship; and then not unfrequently we lost our
way in the attempt.

It was not, however, until the 28th, that success at
length attended our efforts, when the first Reindeer
fell to our guns. It weighed cii^hty-seven pounds,
but in its poor condition contrasted in a marked
degree with those shot at the commencement of
winter (October), as there was scarcely a vestige of
fat any where to be seen. On the following day, the
29th, our second fell, affording us one hundred
and eighteen pounds of meat, in the same condition
as the first ; from this time our sporting season
may be said to have commenced, and it was ever after-

iive to our

IlKALTU OP THE CRRW. 499

wards prosecuted with viffour l^n ,l„,,

P^sent, the temperature rose to l" above .ero and

nowX f /»- «>» we had pre^;'

Known thtm-entirely at variance with the influenee

r r!fVV r"' ^ °^''"'^' fo' the first time
I „ "f "^'l' ""d ^tagth in some ; a result I 7^
fuUy prepared to oxpeet. after being four mont s on
reduced a lovvanrc nf f^ j i . "icnms on a

of tYo r2 7 ? ''' '"'^ '''^ ^«t to the rigour

sr:^::::'--'^^— -ot
frara^taS-erdtrrjr^

IS m- 71 -'-^ -- t^^er tm
missmg-Sergeant John Woon/ R.M.. and Charles

-:::r;r::iS;::-::'c::

K K 2

500

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

I :i

Anderson.* We were much alnrmed at their conti-
nued absence. At 8 p.m., a mortar was fired, and
rockets subsequently, at intervals, but without any
recognition. They not having made their appearance
at 10 P.M., three parties were despatched, each con-
sisting of an officer and three men, supplied with
rockets, blue lights and refreshments, to prosecute
the search in different directions. They had not been
absent more than fifteen minutes, when they were
met by Sergeant Woon, hastening on board for assist-
ance. Two of the parties were still within hail of each
other ; they united, and, under tlie guidance of the
Sergeant, soon cime up with the unfortunate object of
their search. It appeared that the man had wounded
a Deer, which he followed for some time, when a foo'
settmg m, he found himself \mable to regain the ship,
having, in the eagerness of pursuit, paid no attention
to the direction he was going in. He became panic-
struck, and in a state of despair, wandered about in

officers and crew. He proved himself invaluable, was always a
ready volunteer for any service, most correct and soldier-like in
his conduct, ever promoted what contributed to the hilarity and
cheerfulness of the crew, and was one of our most indefatigable
and successful hunters. In short, he was brave and intrepid on
every occasion, which fully tested the man, and he proved him-
self a credit to his corps.

* Charles Anderson was a very good, well-conducted man,
and from his many amusing qualities, a great favourite in the
ship. He was a man of colour, represented himself as a Canadian,
inured to a hunter's life in North America, and was one of the
most powerful and muscular men amongst our crew.

AN INCrDENT OF SPORT,

501

berg ant e„,„e „eross his path. Woon found him i„

given himself up for lost, nor could fVio
o~ ?".^^^»"' ~o I- to the "

he could be induced to move. E„t«=aty and re-

- ;n a .ate o^ rh^i::^" ::::

quahhcs wh,ch so much entitled him to our admira-
t.on and gratitude. lie saw that the p«,r fZ
must soon expire, if a vigorous effort was not „,ade tl

rel,eve.m. ,et their distance fi^m the ship pr

uded he poss, Mity of his seeking aasistauce-lLe
he ould reach the ship, the man would be frozen to
aea h, and a pr.y to the Wolves then heard howling
m the distance. °

One alternative alone remained, and that was
hcroicaUy and promptly adopted. Carry him he could
not, as he one was about the lightest, and the other
one of the heaviest men in the ship ; so, slinging both
guns over h,s shoulder, and with the n.an's arms
around his neck, he commenced the Herculean task of
dragging him over the snow in the direction of the
»lnp. As he ascended a hill, or reached the brow of

502

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

a ravine, he wisely rolled Uira down the descent ; this
had the good effect of exciting the vital powers, and
untagonizhig in sonic degree, the lethargic sleep of
death rapidly stealing over him, he having frequently
supplicated to be left on the snow to die. Hut his
preserver had no idea of men dying under such cir-
cumstances, and nobly persevered at his labour, until
he had reached within a mile of the ship, when he
found his own physical powers giving way. Having
succeeded in arousing a little more life in the helpless
man, he laid him in a bed of snow, and started oft"
for assistance. He was met, as I have before men-
tioned, and a messenger instantly dispatched on board
with the intelligence, which reached us about 10.30
P.M. As the night was intensely cold, with a fresh
breeze, and a temperature of 57° below freezing point,
I knew the tragic scene must soon come to an end if
relief did not speedily reach him; and I at once
started in pursuit of the party, having previously left
the necessary directions with my assistant (Mr. Piers)
to meet the emergency, on Anderson's arrival. I met
the party about three quarters of a mile from the ship,
carrying the nearly frozen body. He was in a state
of insensibility, arms and legs stiff' and rigid— the
former extended, could with difficulty be bent-
hands clenched and frozen, eyes fixed and glassy, jaws
rigid and both so firmly clenched, that we could
scarcely separate them to pour down restoratives.
The pulse was imperceptible at the wrist, the heart

llliAI'PKARANCK OF THK SUN. 503

SeST'"' '■ ■?'' '■" " '"" '"'""'- '- "-' have tor-

rp^onf ., """"S "> readiness for his

ton, thevvorkof resnscitationeommen^d. whieh
!.»< the safsfaction of seeing attended with sneers
taet«,„a^fcvorwith delirium ensued, but LZZ.
he m a few days reeovered. He was, however exten
-ely frost.hi.ten, whiel, ultimate., ntaU d he I"
by an,p„t„t.on of both great toes' with portions o
e^ an., 30 of the fingers, together with a art oi

eland : "' T "*"''""" "-'SMy susceptible
ot cold, and remained mneh debiUtated, and beeame
subsequently affected with scurvy
This incident furnishes a striking proof of the
.fferenees ,„ the moral and physieaf piers of 2
uranee of the dark and white races ; forltwiths and-
ng h,s arduous exertions, the sergeant returned on
'.0 rd apparently as fresh as if he had had ody an
r< umry walk. One of the parties (Mr. WynniZhat
had separated early, returned at 2 a.m. on tWdowm«
mormng. had eome on the track of the missing Z7Z
followe ,t up to the spot whence he ha^d belao
1 .ovdentuJIy rescued from inevitable death
Oil the 5th, the upper limb of the sun was re

eole 0.3 by refraction; but it was not ui:^ the'
nil that he was really visible Hie

greatest events of the year, an.l bought tie assuil

604

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

that the days of darkness had passed. We were now
enabled to look hopefully forward to the coming
season of daylight, for our liberation. He made his
appearance, after an absence of ninety-one days,
gorgeously tinting the eastern horizon with his
brilliancy, much heightened by a beautiful pillar of
Zodiacal light ; and presented a picture no less lovely
than welcome in the hitherto dreary aspect of the
heavens. The Aurora Borealis so frequently presenf,
was, by no means, as brilliant as we had seen it m
the Strait of Prince of Wales. Its evanescent
splendour, was, however, on a few occasions, strikingly
beautiful and effective. It illuminateil the heavens, and
shed its soft mellow light over the snow-clad regions
of our abode, dispelling much of the surrounding
darkness. The hunting was prosecuted with zeal,
vigour, and a fair amount of success throughout the
month. Jt was attended by numerous daily incidents of
daring and adventure, with which my Journal largely
abounds ; and we were again enabled to issue venison
three times in a fortnight. The weather throughout
the month was intensely cold and boisterous, but
somewhat less so than in the preceding— the mean
temperature being 25°.8 below zero, with the force of
wmd 3.1 — light snow fell on six occasions.

On the 1st of March, a bird was observed, which
proved to be u Snow Owl, (Strix nyctea), and from
having seen them in the middle of a subsequent
winter, it may be assumed that they are always to bo

STBATAOEM IN SPORT.

605

found on the lan.l. At my inspection of the crew at this
,""-■' ]''^">"<«i " marlccd loss of flesh, with in.paired
strength ,n the nmjority; and they informed ,„e that,
al hough in good health, otherwise, they felt them-
selves becoming gradually weaker. A Deer was shot
by one of the men. (Wm. Whitfield), the novelty of
the deeoy used on the occasion, v.. a new featu«, in
our sport, and was practised aft.nvard. ;.y others with
success. On sighting the h„d, he t<,k from his
neck a re, comforter, fastened it : hi, ramrod, which
he planted m the snow, and lay a„wn about twenty
yards d,sta„t. Three of the animals .mmediately
approached, and while turning it about in play, a shot
was fired, which killed one and wounded 'another
which ultimately became a prize.

The 10th was the coldest day of the seasou-the
temperature having fallen to 52° below zero, with a
.neanfortheday,of-4.5» - nevertheless it did not
keep us from the hills ; and t,vo Hares were added to
our stock. We were obliged to keep constantly in
."otion, but despite our best efforts, myself and
othei., were smartly frost-bitten before we returned on
board On many of these occasions, we were fre-
quently unable to regain the ship for hou,., having
OS tou,. way from darkness or snow drift. On the
17th. ninny of us were abroad, and at evening all had
returned on board, except three men who were stiU
absent. Knowing the diffieulties they must eii-
■hunter in reaching the ship, the probabUity of

506

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

accidents occurring under the influence of intense
cold, and unprovided with food, we were much con-
cerned for their safety. Signals were, therefore, made
with rockets and blue lights at intervals ; but as they
had not returned at midnight, three parties were dis-
patched m different directions, to search our usual
hunting resorts I was immediately to be informed
should any of the missing men make their appearance
dunng the night, and not knowing what might be
required on their return, I could not proceed in
search of them. At 5 a.m. it was reported to me
that a man was observed approaching from the north-
ward, who proved to be one of the missing hunters.
Soon afterwards we had the satisfaction of receiving
him on board, and in safety, with the exception of his
havmg received a few frost-bites. This man (Henry
fetone,*) said, that being in chase of a Deer a long
way inland, he had lost his way in the dense haze
that covered the land, and wandered about until he
came out on the sea ice to the northward ; by follow-
ing the land on his right, until the coming dayhght
* The subject of this incident was one of the most livelv
good-humoured and cheerful of our excellent crew. He w;8
always ready ' do anything, or g. on any service, and returned
cH^board as hgnt-hearted as if he had only been a few yards from
he vessel. He was the armourer of the ship, and had necessarily
a good deal of tm-.. rk to do. in making cooking uten.ils. &o,
m consequence of which, and his numerous good and ocia

Lt 'l^nkJr.^" ''"'"^"^ '^'^""^' ''''' ^'"P-^-' "^^'^

HUNTING ADVENTURES. 597

revealed his position, he was enabled to reach the
y. after an absence of twenty hours, with a range
ot temperature during this period from 17° to 40°
below ^ero He said he experienced a strong desire
to sleep, but knowing how fatal would be its m-
lulgence, he strenuously resisted the temptation; and
J keepmg the body constantly in motion, was en-
-bled to mnmtam a fair degree of warmth

At 9 o'clock on the 18th. the searching partie. had
returned without being able to discover Jly trace of
he absent men, after a fatiguing nighfs search over
he hJls Two fresh parties started, and, being
favoured by daylight, we hoped with better chances
of reeovenng the absentees, for whom our fears had
greatly mcreascd. At 1.30, however, the appcamnce
of two men, rounding the point at the north-west
entrance of the Pay, left no doubts on our minds
who they were. I immediately started with a few
others to meet them, and was happy to find them
". a good state-although haggard looking and ex-
imusted. they were yet weU able to walk, each carry,
mg h,s musket and a Hare. They also had lost their
way, but had advanced further into the interior; and
they too went to the northward until they reached the
sea.,ce at daylight, a„d discovered their position, which
led .he,„ to the ship. They kept almost constantly
"1 motion, occasionally sleeping on the snow for ten
niinutes-one keeping guard and awaking his com-
panion at the end of this period. They had shot two

>"i,".

508

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Hares, and regaled themselves on the viscera, reserv.
ing the bodies for more urgent necessity, in case they
should not regain the ship. The fact of their being
m possession of a supply of food, had doubtless a
sustammg and salutaiy influence on their minds under
the trying circumstances of their situation, they having
been absent from .he ship 28A hours. The disphiy
of fortitude and endurance manifested by these men,
contrast most forcibly to their advantage with the man
spoken of on the 4th of February.

At 9 P.M., one of the searching parties (Mr. Ilas-
well's) returned on board, having luckily come on the
track of the men, and followed it to the ship. To
prove how admirably this search was conducted, the
second party (Mr. Wynniatt's) did not return until
past midnight; they also came on the track of the
absent men, and followed it up to the end; then
retraced it back until they observed where the other
searching party had come upon it ; when they became
aware ^.hat they must have received succour, and
reacheJ the ship. The result was very satisfactory,
from the fact of both having come on the track; so
that they could not have failed to have afforded relief
or ascertained the fate of the men, had any casualty
occurred.

Our game list at the end of the month told us that
we had killed thirteen Reindeer, and twenty Hares
Many more of the former fell, as numbers were
wounded, which we were unable to follow, and became

KATBRR OP OHR SPORT.

509

he prey of the Wolves and Foxes. Indeed the latter
had be.-ome no less numerous than ravenous, and our
losses on this account were very considerable, for
what was necessarily left on the land all night, wa.,
tound nearly consumed on the foUowing morn-
•ng. The sport of hunting or shooting is ever assoei-
ated w,th feelings of pleasure and enjoyment, but
■n the snow-clad wilds of the north, it resolves itself
.nto an act of duty, from a stem sense of which
all felt called upon to devote their zeal and energy
to Its pursuit; success ir which was always attended
with much general good.

The hardships and difficu. es incidental to Reir
deer hunting in the early months of the year, when
the cold 18 so intense, must be experienced to be
fully understood. There are few pursuits which
more thoroughly test the physical and moral powers of
our nature, or more truthfully try man's capability
endunng hardships, privation, and fatigue
i here is a constant strain upon the perceptive faculties
when pursuing an animal so timid, shy, and watch-
fill as the Reindeer; and from lying in wait, eagerly
watching h.s movements, half-coneealed in the snow it
was no uncommon thing to find oiu^elves so benumbed
as to be quite unable to fire our guns, when he ap-
peared to be a certain prize. If we fired, reloading
could only be accomplished after much difficulty and
delay with the certainty of frost-bitten fingers.
A i^ealons hunter could always be recognized by his

510

THE North-west passage.

disfigured face— the result of his frequent frost bites. As
the animals were generally shot at distances, varying
from two to six or eight miles from the shi]), bringing
them on board was likewise a work of labour : a sledge
and party were always dispatched on receipt of the
mtelJigence, dragging which over high hills and
through ravines, when the snow lay deep was found
very laborious and trying work, and it was no unfre-
quent occurrence to find one or more of the party
return in a state of complete exhaustion.

March proved the coldest month of the winter, the
mean temperature 21° 42' below zero; but there was less
wind than on either of the preceding months, its mean
force being 2.0— light snow fell on eight occasions.

We entered on the month of April auspiciously
with good reason for congratulation, the gloom and
severity of winter having passed. There was but little
change in the sanitary state of the ship— the same
marked evidence of loss of flesh was present, but the
progress of the evil appeared to have been in some
degree counteracted by the issue of the fresh meat.
The sick list, however, was gradually attaining u
higher daily average than it had hitherto presented.

The 7th proved the most successful day in tlu;
chase, we had yet had ; no less than 300 pounds of
venison were added to our stock. The boatswain,
(Mr. Kennedy) started in the morning to fetch a Deer
he had killed the previous day. On reaching the spot,
in a deep ravine, he found only it« remains, which a

AN ADVKNTURf.; wrTH IVOI.VES. 5] J

pack of five Wolves were then ravenously devouring
Determ,nmg to reeover. at least, a portion of his sport'
.ng nghts, he boldly advanced. He first endeavl d
to fnght™ the., by hallowing at the top of his sten-
onan vo.ee-three ™oved off a few yLs and at
down, bnt two remained still at their oecnpation He
now seized a hind leg at one end. while one of them
dragged at the other; his eo.npanions sitting snaZ
peetators of what was going on. With hi .n„s 1
firmly grasped in one hand, and brandishing the
ong bona .„ the other, the gallant boatswain'k p
outing at the top of his voiee. with the double oWec
keeping off the Wolves, and attracting assistance
» every opportunity, he kept warily removing portion^
of the meat, at the same time presenting a bold front
to he enemy, who continued growling their defiance
and discontent at his operations. Their noise at as^
> ought the InteT,reter within view. On Joining he
boa^wain he was in a state of great trepidation and
excitement, apprehensive of an immediate attack • but
on another actor coming upon the scene, the Wolves
decamped, and took up a position on a hill „b„ut
200 yards distant. The boatswain flung the remnant
of the Ueer on his back, and under the protection of
l>.s escort retreated from the scene of his spirited
advenui-e. I happened to be in the vicinity and
attracted by the howling „f the Wolves, was hastenin.
o the spot, when I met the two men just as thit
affair termmated. Never can I forget the appearance

512

THE NORTH-WF.ST PASSAGE.

of the boatswai.j, nor the i>arration of the adventure ho
earnestly and graphically gr= ve me, as I lay on the snou-
heartily amused. No general could hnve felt more
elated at the conclusion o; a successful campaign. He
deserved much credit, not less for his zeal, than his
courage, in recovering single handed a portion of his
"Deer from such ferocious enemies. We escort* d him
on hoard in safety witli his trophy-a portion of wliich
was given to Urn as a reward, while the remainder
(fourteen pou'ids) vas addo 1 to the general stock-
we could not bin thitik, however, that he weU deserved
the whole.

The most western land hitherto explored in the
Polar Sea, (MelvJlle Island), in clear weather could
be fnintly seen from the hills in our neighbour-
hood; to reach which, in the ship, had ever been
the object of all our hopes ; and in our endeavours
to accomplish this, all our best exertions and entire
energies had been hitherto expended in vain. It
now became a matter of primary importance to reach
It by means of a travelling party, with a view of
ascertaining if any of the ships, comprising the Expe-
dition under command of Captain Austin, had arrived
there— oj if a dep6t of provisions had been formed to
succour any portion of our (the western) Expedition,
that might be compelled to seek for safety on its
desolate shores ; for we always considered, in the event
of casualties that we should certainly find, relief nt
Melville Island. Fortiir.nte it was for us that no «ncli

; no ancii

w
A VISIT TO MELVIILE ISLAVD. 513

casualty occurred. Althnnirl, in „

advantageous for doina 7 V P"""™ "1'"^'^

•deeply did Tatls' trClr-^^ ^^
in possession of surh inf Ti ^ ''^ '^''' "«*

inland in 185 w ,f >'"'' '^ ^ Journey to this
"u in 1851 would have afforded n« tt •

;r ""f .™ *° -'-' " p-'ty fo' this Li?™!

--. a ewSji :r ::rrar

muXt""' Tr' ^ P"'^P'^'=' of effecting ,eoi
mun cation with a portion of our feUow-countrvre!
for the Idea was universally entertained ainonrus'
th^^^oneormoreshipswouldbefoundatJeM:

AU our protecting agents against the winter's cnl.l
were removed towards the ini7l,llp .f *i ,

we had the satisfaction of e fn til ^^^ "''
exposed to view. On the "Tth ''; i™' ™" """'
f ddened by the app"e /thfl „,: s?'^

and that the I T T '' """■" S™'"! reason,

L L

514

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE,

iSi 111

On the 21st, several of us, out hunting in difFcrent
directions on the land, lost our way during a dense
haze which covered it, and it was not until we
had wandered about for ten hours, that on the
weather becoming clearer we were able to regain
the ship. Walking having become difficult and
fatiguing from the depth and softness of the snow,
and being without food, we were quite exhausted on
our arrival. On the 22nd, we were rendered rather
uneasy by the prolonged absence of Mr. Wynniatt ;
but at 10 P.M., he was observed coming over the hill
near the ship, and on a nearer approach it was evident
that he had not returned empty handed. The good for-
tune which generally attended him in the chase, had
again fallen to his lot, as we could see that he was
laboriously dragging a Deer. He had shot it several
miles from the ship, and rather than leave it a prey to
the Foxes, had determined to bring it on board. This
he succeeded in doing after nearly seven hours labo-
rious exertion — the state of the snow rendering such
an undertaking extremely toilsome, as his appearance
fully testified. As soon as he was recognized, a party
went out to relieve him of his burden.

Towards the end of this month, the first case of
Scurvy was placed on the sick Ust, attended witli
great debihty; others soon followed, and some
assumed a very aggravated character. From this
time, the disease became more generally manifest,
associated with debility and rheumatism in various

snroEss jn the ohase. ^jg

gave u?m, ^^. ''"" '''"^"'^" l^**'"'!-'. (which
iw P ™L' T "' ■""'■> ^'^"»'' "-^ »" «

every respect more favourable than that of .1,
previous year-the „,ea„ temperatun. was r 4 bellw
-.upwardsofth.edegJ..,her4:;,:;'::

-;^^a/dheavj;;rj,:r:LSr"'^^
4we:2d":rjrrtr"""^"r^^-'-

daylight asth/s season of constant

during tl earj dl ^'^''^'''S <"'"'--' o-uri.d

seasoniteat^^— ^^^

t% might recover from the state Tf n

ten-or our unceasing offor^tlteaL^^lIr

an app^aeh more easy „„ «,„„ ,,,„„, :'^^ ^ ■•

M>U that certainly contributed to o^ur ^'

On the evening of Sunday the 7th, Captain M'Clure

the usual marks of toil worn Arctic travellers ■ I
fafgue party had met them some distance frl 'the

L L 2

516

TirK NOT!TII-\VI<'.ST PASSAGE.

sliip nnd nssiatod the . . ,vnc! at 7 p.m. vvc vvclronied
thcin on board. They ^unod, that from the period of
their departure 0,1 the 11th, the weather proved very
uiipropitious for the prosecution of the jouniey ; no
less from its dense, hazy character, thnn *hv, quantity
of snow which fell, at times uol vmabling tiicm to sec
more than fifty yards ahead ; and on the night of their
depart nil; they found themselves walking over the
land to the N.E., until its imeven character made
them aware of their mistake— so diificult was it, under
the circumstances, to distinguish land from ice. On
the second day they shaped a course for Cape
Hay— the most southern point of Melville Island —
and from this period they encountered the utmost
difficulty in their advance ; the ice being of a very
heavy, hummotky character, and the snow so soft that
they sunk nearly knee deep at every step. They were
frequently brought to a complete halt, so that ' wus
only by the greatest exertion that they could bring
the sledge, foot by foot, over the ' javy ice that was
everywhere met wi; i Tiieir p >gres8 fo^ several
days did not exceed a few miles- -thus falling far short
of their expectations and prevent) tig them from
forming any opinion as to the probable termination
of the journey. It was, in consequ' uce, resolved to
plac'j the party on two thirds a 'va' of provision
and ns they were quite incaj )1( working t' ■
twelve hours continuously at the sledge, they de
termined to travel and sleep six hours alternately— a

Tillfi TllAVELLINO PARTY. 51 7

■« tl,cy thou wero. As they ,ulv„„„c,l, tl.cir diffi
■ul^s »p„e,u.c„ ,0 i„,,„„30 to such an extent, Id
7 1-%-- l-ca,„e so slow, tl.at they pitched thei

mm,y. Before finally giving up the attempt

hov„ver,someoftl,en,„,v„„eedtoreco„noit.hc;
tote of t e ,ee „head. and had ,a,.ly been an honr

Wnt.wh„nt,,eyean,eo„a„e,tensivep,ai„offlat
ee of the p.ev,„us year's foru,ation, stretehing away

the northward as far „, they eould see. They

";.med,ately retraced their .steps, highly elated at the

f r 71 ""^ '""• ™"''<^' "•"> *'« Prty having be™
-freshed, s , , with fresh vigour and energy ov^

it r" r, ""if '"^ '^'°" "■"■"■ ™«' 'ho flat
ce« ,.,.aehed. "p to this period they had been
three Jays. ,„t .uV, the Sun, or obtaining .„y
observations ; so ' it is difficult to say what ™av
have..,, the o^tentoUheir wanderings f but :„":
sT rT'^ *"■' "'"^ f'™"-! "'^'''^o'ves con-

Cap lay beanng N.E. by E. „„ : off that part of
he s nd wh,eh we eould discen. on *ar days from
he hdls m our neighbourhoo.l. They c.ched Winter
llarbonr early on the morn.n. „r 4e .0th. on t, e
eighteenth day of th- . joun,cy-one of wh -1 thl
were ob.ged to koe,, un<lorcanv.. from theprev. nee
of .■. no,-th.west gale. 1-revious „ then depar. ,re

618

THE NORTII-WKST TASSAOK.

liill

wc indulged in confident expectation of their finding
one, if not more of the ships composing Captain
Austin's Expedition ; ut on entering the harbour,
when it became fairly exposed to view, they wvw
bitterly disappointed on finding it deserted. Instead
of meeting with a ship, nothing was to be «een but
the snow-cli I wilds of this desolate region.

On examining this locality, so celebrated as having
been the winter quarters of Sir Edward Parry's ex-
pedition in 1819-20, their attention was attracted by
a large mass of sandstone, some eight or nine foet high,
on which was inscribed a record of the visit of Parry's
ships. On the summit of this remarkable stone n few
small stones were piled together, amongst which they
found a small flat tin case, containing a notice re-
cording the visit of a party under the command of
Lieutenant M-^Clintock, on the Cth of June, 1851, from
Captain Austin's Expedition. Therein that officer
(Lieutenant M^Clintock) stated, that the expedition
had wintered between Cornwallis and Griffith's Islands ;
that a depot of provisions with a boat, were at Port Leo-
pold, (of which we were aware) and a small depot,
likewise, at Cape Spencer, distant nearly 600 miles,
(by travelling)— with some other intelligence connected
with the party ; but not one word did it contain of the
important intelligence, that traces of Franklin had been
discovered by these ships the previous year at Beechey
Island. We might have been making fruitless eftbrts
in other directions, had we been in a fit state ; but

MEI.VII.LE ISr.ANI).

51!)

verytlnng of the kind would Imve been avoided
fhe great and prnnary duty of an officer in p^
5: " ;:^"''^ ^"S^S'^''- "f "- -ccess ho has met

"ware of the cu-cumstance. There could have been
"o .dea entcrtaind. that this record would ev h v

tat ped.t,on to which wc belonged: „„ one appa-

ufat . rt™:,' "' "' "">■ '^' '» ^-k for sue
eour at t,„, fo,.fe„„d y^„^ Melville Island

to . . wo ever looked with a degree of conHdence
.;'' ™^ on eertamty, as a refuge in the event o

th could succour or assist a party, if any of us had
bu n unhappdy cast on its desolate shores. We then
ooncluded-as subsequent intelligence proved, ju.tly
-tlmt all the ships comprising Captain Jstiu's

iZ T: ''"'':^"'"'«'*'' England in th.- autumn of
1851; that in the absence of any intelligence of our
long lost Consort, the ■ Investigator' was the only s "

■n the Polar Sea; and that on our own energy and
resources we then alone had to depcn.'

Tte party having had some refreshment and repose
ami deposited a record of their visit in the cairn on
the sandstone, stating the ship's position, and other

' it

H : I

520

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

circumstances connected with our voyage— at 6 p.m.
on the same evening took their departure, after a
sojourn of eighteen hours. Their homeward journey
formed a marked contrast to the outward one, from
the flat character of the ice, and improved state of the
weather. About fifteen miles from land, they came on
a continuous plain of flat ice of the previous year's
formation, which brought them to the northern shore
of Baring Island, corresponding to the expanse of
water seen at the close of the previous season (October
1 852). They reached the ship on the tenth day, and,
with the exception of the frost-bites they had received,
and a few of the men being afflicted with snow blind-
ness, they were well ; but all were considerably reduced
in flesh. The only traces of animated nature seen,
were some old deer tracks, a few Hares, and a small
pack of Ptarmigan—the former were so tame, that
they came up close to therp, and one came to the tent
door and took some biscuit crumbs from the hand of
one man, whose better feeling would no< allow him
to kill it.

We had thus, at length, connected our Expedition
with timt of the eastern, although too late by a year,
to be then attended with any good results ; but the
fruit of the seed then sown, was reaped subsequently.
We had also made, to a certain extent, the North- West
Passage, from the fact of our men having reached a
locality, where ships had previously been from the
eastward, (Parry's 1819—20) and the only thing left

SUMMER VISITORS.

521

for us then to do, was to reach it in the ship in the
ensuing summer.

The remainder of the month of May was un
marked by any incidents of consequence; the mean
temperatm-e was 8° colder than that of the previous
year but the wind and weather generally was much
ot the same character; snow fell on seventeen days
durmg the month, and the season appeared to be
generally backward. The result of our efforts in the
chase were very satisfactory; they were at this time
carried on entirely at night, from about 8 p.m until
4 or 5 o'clock the following morning, as exposure to
the sun and snow, during the day, generally entailed
an attack of snow-blindness. We had shot ten
Reindeer, four Hares, and ninety-nine Ptarmigan
I observed that only two species of the latter fre'
quented this land ; the Willow Grouse {Tetrao Albus)
and the Ptarmigan Grouse [Tetrao Lagopus) • the'
Rock Grouse {Tetrao Rupestris), which had bJen so
abundantly mef with in Ihe Strait of Prince of A^^ales
was entirely absent. On the last day of the month'
we saw two Snow Geese (Anser Hyperhoreus), the
first of the season, flying in a northerly direction, and
soon afterwards a tew Gulls {Lams Glaucus et Argenta-
tus, Lestris Parasiticus) pursuing the same course-a
pretty sure indication of the progress of thaw and
the existence of water somewhere in our neighbour-
hood. With the exception of the little Bunting, the
Snow Geese are the first arrivals from the southvvard

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

i:']l,

■\'t

•\'- V-

as they likewise are the first to leave the dreary
regions of the north, on their southerly migration in
large flocks. The North Ameriean Crane {Grus Ca-
nadensis), was likewise one of our earhes visitors • it
was seen in the middle of May, and soon afterwards I
was fortunate in procuring two good specimens-tliey
are very destructive to the little Lemming, which con-
stitutes their principal food. The Common and King
Elder Ducks {Anas Molissima et Specfabilis) Brent
Geese (Anas Bemicla), Great Northern, Black and
Red throated Divers, are the next to make their ap-
pearance, followed by the Pintail and Longtail Ducks
{Anas Caudacuta et Glacialis) ~ the latest visitors
of the season, as they are also the last to desert us
Ihese birds generally took their departure in the same
order as they arrived. Short as the period of their
stay is, It is impossible to describe the cheerful aspect
which their presence imparts to regions hitherto so
deserted and dreary, and over which the most death-
like stUlness universally prevails; or to speak of
the exhilarating, salutary influence which it never
faUed to exercise on the mind. AU the birds-
exceptmg the Ravens and Ptarmigan-are migratory
m their habits, and with the advent of summer seek
the solitudes of the Polar Sea for breeding and
moulting. As soon as the young are sufiiciently
fledged, they again betake themselves to the south-
ward; the character of the season much influencing
the period of their departure.

le dreary
;ratioi], in
Grus Ca-
sitors ; it
3rwards I
:ns — tliey
hich con-
md King
s), Brent
lack and
their ap-
il Ducks,

visitors
lesert us.
the same

of their
il aspect
herto so
t death-
peak of
it never
birds —
igratory
ler seek
ng and
iciently

south -
lencing

LABORIOUS OCCUPATION.

523

CHAPTER XXI.

Ice-Birds-Wolves and Reindeer-Incidents of Sport-First
Appearance of Water-Aspect and Geological Character of th
Land-Inc,de.ts of Sport-«ed-throated Diver-State of the

rr '^^t"~""'' "' '''' Crew-General Appearance
o Survy-Reconunendations .ade to prevent it-P,easing

^^r^trsr Br t ^-^ "^''-^-'-^

,.. , , . „ s'">'— Bears — Presence of Birds — Ice
N «1 T f "7-«»'» KilW-O,.,, W..cr seen to .he

tro.eo,, -Gloomy Prospects-Further redoctioo of Provi-
,„ , " "" "Joi'U-'-Our Necessities-Cold and

"z:-frr;;i'°"*°''-"-"-"^^^^^^^^^

TnaoucouT tl,c entire of May and until an
a. vancotl pcnocl in Ju„e. om men were e.nployed in
ballast, „g and ,vatenng the ship preparatory to o..r
-peeted hberation. At this work titeir eyes were
much exposed to the combined inflttence of snow and
■^..ushme, as the ballast was all collected on the still

524

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

snow-covered land, and firmly frozen in the soil,
whence it was dragged on sledges through soft'
thawing snow to the ship-a work of no light nature.
The consequence was that Opthalmia (snow bhndness)
became very general amongst them, and the cases
more severe than at any former period of the com-
mission. Upwards of one third of the crew were
placed on the sick list, although the precaution of
wearing crape veils or glasses had been enforced ; but
on this, ns on other occasions, the usual imprudence
of the sailor prevailed. On the completion of the
ballasting, we commenced to take in our supply of
water, which was found of good quality in a small
lake about a mile distant inland. This continued
laborious wor'c— on men who had previously been
making such exertions in hunting, on a small allow-
ance of food— produced the effects that might have
been anticipated. They began to present an altered
and haggard aspect, and to complain of a feeling of
general languor, wee'-ness and debility. In con-
sequence, the fresh meat was issued in somewhat
larger quantity and more frequently, for a period of a
couple of weeks, w^-ch better enabled them to
continue their ardv.u^ employment. Afterwards the
internal work of the ship was commenced, in making
the necessary preparations for sea, which constituted
the principal spring operations for this year. The
thickness of the ice on the 1st of June was found to
be two inches less than last year— six feet ten inches—

WOLVES AND DEER.

525

While that in the pond from which we obtained
our water, was seven feet ten inches; which
may perhaps be considered a fair estimate of the
difference existing between fresh and salt water
ireezmg.

A specimen of the North American Crane was shot
on the 3rd-it was a noble looking bird, was 2A
leet high, had an expanse of wing of 4^ feet, and
weighed 8 lbs. The Golden Plover, iCharadrius
Pluviahs) the Phalerope, (Phalaropus Platyrynchos),
the Purple Sandpiper, iTringa Maritimal and
Sanderhng, (Calidris Arenaria), were frequently shot
at this period. Another wolf adventure had likewise
occurred to the boatswain, who, when in pursuit of
a Deer, saw it suddenly stop on the top of a hill
about 300 yards distant, at the same moment several
Wolves made their appearance in quick succession
none of which had been previously seen. They
formed a circle around the affrighted Deer, and in a
crouching position gradually closed on him. Sud-
rtcnly, as if by some preconcerted signal, they all
sprang on the animal, and immediately brought it to
the ground, , when the work of devouring it com-
menced. He remained a spectator of the scene, fired
two shots at the AVolvrs, (ten in number), and
advanced towards th.m, when they decamped.
ADout fifteen minutes \xm elapsed from the time he
hrst saw tlie Wolves, and there was nothing of the
auimnl remaining but the skin, with the spine, antlers

I ,1

Iti

I i

lilWii

526

TiiK North-west passage.

part of the licad, and bones of a hind leg—the rest
having been devoured. The bones he brought on
board-they were cleanly picked, witli small shreds of
flesh adhering, and formed poor recompense for his
spirited exploit. Subsequent observations led us to
infer that this is Jie usual mode adopted by the
Wolves in killing the Reindeer; they first detach one
trom the herd, and then it becomes certain prey
A Deer that was shot on the 8th, having been
left on the land until the following morning, was
found nearly consumed; a Wolf, Pox, and a Raven
were observed feasting on it, but decamped on the
approach of the party. Two Snow Geese were also
shot by one of our men-the stratagem practised by
he sportsman was, I think, worthy of success, as
there vvere only two birds. One fell at the first
hre, and tne other took wing. "Jack" very cun-
ningly put the dead bird in a sitting posture, and lay
m wait for a few minutes, when the other rejoined its
mate, and forfeited its life for its fidelity. The average
weight of the Snow Geese was .bout 5^ lbs. ead.
and the fle^a is sweet and well flavoured.

The first appearance of water on the ice, was
observed on the IGth-a pool a few niches deep
liavmg formed; and on the 21st, the first rain of the
season fell. The thaw afterw..rds progressed more
rapidly and numerous pools of water formed on the
f^oe and land; indeed, the water had begun to run
through the ravines, the sound of which fell delight-

< ICC, was

nEOf,or,iCAr, ciiaraoter of land. 537

My ^„ the ear, amid the death-hkc stillness that
I-cvaded. There is „ feeling of enjoyment one
expenenees m these solitary ran,bles over the most
desolate regions of the globe, while contemplating the
progressive seasonal changes, that we hope a^e to
work onr .Icliveranee, and free us from the gloom of
Arctic hfe, of which it is impossible to convey an ac
curate idea. '

On the 17th, I proceeded with an attendant to the
1"II8 on the opposite side of the Hay, to direct the "
removal of sonic specimens, and complete my geo-
logical examination of the land. In my course 1
visited two small islands in the centre of the Bay •
they possessed no interest, except in affording evidence
ot their havmg beei .* ov, period visited by the Es-
quimaux m their migra.;., along th- coast A few
large masses of sandstone and ehy-skte were collected
on their summits, and a sort of einbankmen. was
lirown up around them, from the prcsu. of ic. Ti,e
larger of the two is about one-third 4 a mile in
longth, 3(10 yards broad, and about thirty feet liLd.

th bed he sea. The physical aspect of the land
>.nt.kos ol he same irregular, hilly character as other
locaht..^ Miavc elsewhere spoken of The soil is
smidy. but in the ravines and valleys it i. mixed with
alluvium formmg a rich loam, which highly favoui-s
vegetation, and affords good pasturage for the lumgiy
denizens of its w.ida. Clay-slate, sandstone, ^

528

THE NORTH-VVKST PASSAGE.

ironstone, calcareous and granitic pebbles everywhere
abound, and form the superficial covering of the land,
with boulders of Plutonic origin scattered here and
there over its surface, particularly on the summits of
the higher lands. At the south-end of the Bay and
about 700 yards from the beach, which is flat and
swampy, there is a remarkable limestone formation,
nsmg almost vertically to the height of 500 feet,'
^ amidst a large collection of debris and huge masses
of the parent rock— forming a formidable outwork
at Its base, resulting from ages of disintegration. Its
character is mountain hmestone, and contained
fossils. The species were less numerous than those
met with at Cape Crozier, Encrinites, Corallines,
TerebratuI^, Pecten, Cardium, Producta, and a few
others. Extending inland, and in a north-east direc
tion, a chain of isolated table hills are met with, pos-
sessmg a like general appearance and geological
character. The northern coast of Baring Island to
the eastward of the Bay of Mercy, (Banks' Land)
IS composed of a dark-brown sandstone, forming a
Cham of rather precipitous cliffs from 500 <;o 600 feet
high, in which pieces of coal (Anthracite) have been
found.

The excursion was a harassing one, from the pro-
gress of thaw-our com-se lay through soft snow and
water, which so benumbed the feet and legs, that we
were frequently obliged to stop, remove our boots and
stockings, and by friction restore suspended anima-

GREAT NORTirF'.N DIVER. 529

but they w™' nff 1.7 ''"'"* ""' "' P"-^"".

approach them unobserve,^ • fV • , ^"^"^

of *K • 1 ""ODserve-i ; this is another instanrp

of their shunning armed men A fi "^^ance

Sd~r: r it''™""—, othe. L

numbers Xrl . ? ■"""' "? " considerable
aunibers «hen the water began to forn.. A Deer was
shot on the 24th, and left on the land hlT
was oonsiderod too distant to send !^ytt 'Z
though,, however, it was m„eh too valuable a prizeto
be left a prey to the Wolves and Poxes ■ and th! ^
there still ov;=t«j <• . ' ° ™* chances

there st,ll exsted of proemmg a part, if not the ,vhoIe
of the ammal, reconeUed us to the fatigue of a iour^ev
as .t would become the property of tLe who wS

brmg. onboard, we the^fore agreed to 111
clfort for Its recovery. Accordingly in the evening
a party of five left the ship-two ol'ers Z T2
-on, t.„ warrant officers, and one of the „C:

The !r " r' "" '""■"™°" "''^^'' fo""" the Deer'
The men at once set about skinning and quarteri^^

-ach a quarter, the fifth the head, and two Hares

M M

• »

630

THE NORTH-WEST PA88AOB.

"iprr

Which they had shot. They returned to the ship, bring-
ing a most acceptable addition to our scanty fare.

The thaw did not progress this season witL the
same degree of rapidity as in the previous summer;
water did not form on the ice till after the first rain,
and the snow but slowly and partially disappeared
from the. land. As it did so, however, Arctic vegeta-
tion commenced with its usual rapidity, and the
stunted Mora of the north, arrayed in all their
simplicity and beauty, most pleasingly adorned the
surface of the barren soil; scattered here and there,
wherever the fostering sunshine nurtured their growth,'
and the blighting influence of the chilling wind could
not assail them, during the short summer of their
existence.

The wi^^K.,r during the month of June formed a
marked coaira.l to that met with, at the same season
m temporate climates-the mean temperature was
31° 5', being 9° less than the previous year. Snow feU on
twenty, and rain on four days, and strong north-west
and south-west winds generaUy prevailed. The mean
thickness of ice was found to be 7 feet 2 inches— thus
showing an increase of three inches during the month •
by no means a cheering circumstance, when compared
with that of last year, their being then a decrease of
two feet two inches. The hunting was not so
successful as in May-we had shot eight Reindeer,
twelve Hares and about eighty Ptarmigan and wild
fowl, of the species I have elsewhere mentioned.

"""■»■■ "ON OP THE CRRW. 831

month L ! ; "^"""a' '" '">«•' s«™es8ive

month less sat.sf„et„ry than the precc! .. this I

- ea. oc „.on, duly represented in the p^;J Jl

otiate r™'"™''^'' -hat I considered L'

~ the growing evU. On the 1st ,v

however, T founH 'h^i- +1 , v'

> I louiid Jiat the scorbutic tainf Hp

coming so generally developed with a diilv „

s ck list th.^r T fu L V V li- icasinff

.:r;^c:on o; !S.rLr£r ;

circle,) I pointed out the necessity there existed nnH
the amount of good that could ni fail o ^ 'Cn

"iree months : as it would enable the men bett..r t„
withstand the labour which must ensue "thet^r
."g up of the ice. Por in the event o^ ur liber 2!"
and making some easterly p„g,,3s, of whi h J Ti
eveiy reason to hope, so as to get within an av" lable

could then, of course, have nothing to regret A,
strength of the crew, and fortify them in some

M M 2

IMAGE EVALUATfON
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

lii|M 12.5

2f Ki M^

2.2

|||||m
1.4 mil 1.6

^/).

>:)

^<»S'i "^

'>. '-^

Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 873-4503

*. ^

532

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

degree against the rigour of another winter, which
would, I feared, prove fatal to some, and be most
severely felt by all. To -these suggestions. Captain
M'Clnre declined to accede, or to make any addition
whatever to the then scanty allowance of provisions.
Their debilitated state at the time was in a great
degree produced from the vast amount of physical
exertion entaUed by the hunting and other work,
followed by fatigue and exhaustion, without having
food sufficient to repair the waste of body. The
severe and trying work which the numerous sledge
parties endured, in bringing on board the product of
the chase in long and harassing journeys, over a
rugged, snow covered land, tended largely also to
favour it. From a chain of causation so direct, there
could be little difficulty in tracing the state of the
sick hst at this period; nearly one third of the
men were placed on it with scurvy in various
stages of development, and all complained of de-
bility.

Our stock of venison was then exhausted, and we
could only depend on what small game we could
procure. Shooting was becoming very trying to men
already much debilitated, from the quantity of water
everywhere met with on the floe and the land, through
which we were necessarily obliged to wade. The
lower half of the body was, therefore, always
thoroughly drenched in these excursions, as we found
it less fatiguing, wading in the water than walking

TWO MBSK OXEN KILLED. 533

over the l«,d. We were not destined, however to
b« long without « meat. On the 8th thelZ't
omannes left the ship about n«.n. and som! C

S "''™ ''"™7- ''« observed two Musk Oxen
lying down-oue of them asleep. He was able t!

On tTf ! ^'^ "' *"' «™ «»* »° their legs
On the ,«e,pt of the first wound, whieh did n^

appear to affect him in the least, the animd J
about forty yards, when he stood as if about to make

•nm, but he stdl remained in the same attitude The
oaer had by this time approached more eioseiy, and

second, he fired and wounded him; the animal be-
tZtr?f' "".'• ■""""«"' '- formidable looking
bergeant, m the mean time, reloaded and fired his
fifth and last baU at his first antagonist who stiU
-n.a.ned in the same position-the' missi,: .tr^l
h.m m the centre of the forehead, passed threugh ht

ha,^ng been .hen expanded, he quickly reloaded and
fired the screw of his ramrod at the second animal
which had approached more closely, and wounded ^^
m the neck, when he fiercely advanced to a distant
of only a few feet. Thinking he was about to mTe!
Onal rush, as a last resource, he fired his ramrod

534

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE,

which entered at the left fore-shoulder, passed,
diagonally through his body and out at his right
flank, inflicting a fatal, raking wound ; and he fell
Ufeless at his feet. Thus by his own efibrts, he had
accomphshed the greatest sporting feat, and one,
attended with the greatest amount of good that had
yet fallen to the lot of any individual amongst us.
On the foUowing morning, the 9th, two sledges were
dispatched to the scene of the previous day's exploit,
but did not return until 5 p.m. The party were
much exhausted, some being barely able to reach the
ship. One of the sledges had slipped off the bank
into the water that had formed along the shore,
carrying with it one of the men. He tenaciously
clung to. the sledge, which floated in deep water, and
in about fifteen minutes they succeeded in bringing
all in safety to land. The man was nearly lifeless
from this short immersion in icy cold water, and it
was only with difficulty that they succeeded in
establishing reaction after the lapse of a considerable
time. The larger of the two Oxen, was even in
death, one of the most formidable looking animals I
have seen. He measured seven and a half feet in
length, six and a half in circumference, and was 767
pounds in weight— viz. meat 374 pounds, head and
skin 140 pounds, other parts 253 pounds; the
stomach was one of the most capacious receptacles for
food that had come imder my observation, and
measured thirty-niue inches by twenty-seven inches.

THE MUSK OX.

635

The other ammal was younger and smafler, and a
male Idcew^e, it weighed 865 pounds, and afforded

oonition. and the sight of such beef was quite a
noveIty,_we feasted our eyes on it for the remainder
ot the evening.

inhlh^ ^'^^ .?' i^" ^'"'^""') " essentially an
uhabrtant of the Arctic Circle, seldom ranging far
to the southward of it. and is found mosT abun-
dantly ou the north-eastern lands of America, and

witW T T 'f "'■' "° "^^^ «"'■»«•» are met
with Su,g, «„d ^ ^^^^^^ ^^^

fifteen; but at MelviUe Island-as many Is sevenl^
have been seen together. Their favourite resort ap-

along the coast, where m summer the pasturage is
more abimdant. It would appear that they advan«, to
the northward as the snow disappears from the land
although many are its constant occupants, and have
been shot throughout the winter. When met with
either smgly or in herds, they show but httle alami
on the approach of the hmiter; when in herds the
younger animals are kept in the rear, the older in
front ; and flanking them, in this way. they will aUow a
hunter to approach within twenty or thirty yards of
them, and steadily receive his fire. They then
become an easy prey to expert or skilful huntere, and
J have known several instances where whole herds
have been decimated without moving more than a

536

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

few yards from their original position. The sudden-
ness of the attack appears to frighten them, and
prevent their flight, and from the great parental
solicitude they evince for their young, a well-
directed attack of a few hunters seldom fails of com-
plete success. They often bejome ferocious when
wounded — numerous instances have occurred, where
they rushed at the assailant, and were only arrested
in their course by a fatal shot. The meat is of ex-
cellent quality, particularly in the autumn, and in
taste resembles beef, with the exception of its having
a slight musky flavour, particularly if eaten soon after
it is killed. This is stronger in the blood of the
animal than in the flesh, from which it is exhaled as
the former flows from the body— it is also met with
in the viscera in a marked degree, but not to such an
extent as to render it disagreeable to the taste ; in the
young animals it is almost entirely absent. The
colour of the Musk Ox is of a dark brown. One was
seen by a travelling party on Melville Island in a large
herd, of a pure milk-white— the only instance, I
believe, on record. The inner wool is of the finest
description, and capable of forming the most beau-
tiful fabrics manufactured.

On the 13th, two of the great Northern Diver
{Colymbus Qlacialis,) were shot in a small lake near
the ship. Some idea of the density of plumage and
thickness of the skin may be formed, from the fact,
that they each received six well directed shots before

ADVENTURE WITH BEARS. 537

they we« killed. They were each 32 inehes high
and 58 mches in the expanse of wings, and weighed
lOi bs and 111 lbs. respectively; they were very
beantiflil bmls, and the first we had seen. About
the same t.me a couple of Stoats (Mustela Brmmea.)
were lolled, and I am not aware that they have been
hitherto met with in so high a latitude

One of our men, (Wm. Whitfield,) who had gone the
previous evening to the entrance of the bay, suddenly
found himself close to a Bear, which had advanced
wUhm 20 feet of him and there stood. Considering
It imprudent to attempt to retreat, he prepared to act
on the defensive only, brought the gun to his shoulder
and fearlessly awaited the expected attack; when
ano her Bear appeared in sight, and came up at a
brisk pace within about 40 yards of him, and halted.
In this position the three stood for the space of
several minutes, when to his inexpressible delight
he was relieved from this most mienviable situatL'
by then- turning romid and walking off to seaward :
he then made aU possible haste to the ship, rejoicing
at his narrow escape.

The Brent Geese, Pin-taa and Long-tailed Ducks
were about this time very numerous, and many were
shot ,■ the former became an easy prey, as they were
inomtmg, and we frequently ran them down on the
land.

About the middle of the month, the ice was
reported to be in motion outside the harbour, but no

538

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

water was yet visible. We fancied the distant sound
of running water might have been mistaken for it.

On the 23rd, two Seals (Phoca Vitulina) were
killed, and proved a welcome addition to our mess.
One was shot in the open w^ter running along the
shore, and the other was killed in rather a novel style
by Mr. Piers. He was returning on board after an
unsuccessful morning's sport, and saw the Seal asleep
on the ice near its hole. He succeeded in walking
up close to it, and with a well directed blow on the
head with the butt of his gun, killed it on the spot.
This was the more strange, as we had ever found the
greatest difficulty in approaching these waiy animals.
It weighed ninety pounds, and was four feet in length
with a good coating of blubber. The flesh is of a
dark colour, without much flavour, except that oily
taste imparted to it by adhering fragments of blubber,
but keen appetites required no relish for food, which
necessity only compelled us to eat. Indeed, at this
time in our hunting excursions, the smaller birds
when they could be procured, were eagerly eaten while
yet warm and raw by the hungry hunter.

On the 31st, open water was seen from the high
land, extending for some distance outside the boun-
daries of the bay, and as the ice was entirely de-
tached from the shore by a narrow lane of water,
we earnestly hoped for an early release. Towards the
middle of July, Sorrel {Rumex Domesticus) and
Scurvy Grass {Cochlearia Officinalis) made their

SORREL AND SCURVY ORA88.

539

appearance on the Iand~the former in considerable
abundance-and being fully impressed with their value
under present circumstances, as antiscorbutic agents'
I represented the necessity there existed of using our
best efforts in procuring them, and the good effects
which would certainly attend their regular issue to
the ship s company. In furtherance of this object, a
number of the men were daily employed in gathering
the Sorrel,~the Scurvy Grass being scarce,--and the
quantity obtained was such as to afford a small
allowance to each man daily, after the wants of the
sick were suppHed. The Sorrel, when eaten alone, or
with the addition of a little vinegar and mustard
forms a most agreeable and excellent salad, highly
rehshed and eagerly sought for by all. When boiled
and eaten as a vegetable, it was a valuable addition
to our scanty meal, but appeared to me, to be less
efficacious as an antiscorbutic agent in the latter state
than m the former, in which way I should recom-
mend it to be used. I had ample evidence of the
beneficial effects resulting from its use; for on the 1st
of August, I could clearly discern an improvement in
the general appearance of the men, and the majority
expressed themselves as feeling generally better than
they had done a month previous. 1 should also
mention that during this time, they were able to pro-
cure Ducks, Geese, and other birds occasionally, each
man bemg aUowed to retain for his mess the small
game he shot, which ever proved a most acceptable

640

THB NORTH-WEST PA88AQE.

addition to it. For a short period, therefore, the evil
which threatened us appeared to be partially arrested ;
clearly proving the necessity there existed for fresh
vegetable and animal food.

As August came and advanced, we continued to
watch the state of the ice with daily increasing in-
terest and anxiety. Open water was again joyfully
reported on the 10th, seen from the high lands in our
vicinity, off the entrance of the bay, outside which
the ice appeared in motion, but as yet the bay-ice
remained quite stationary, and the persistence of
northerly and north-west winds proved highly un-
favourable, by blocking up the entrance, and thereby
preventing the ice from setting out of it. As may
readily be supposed, winds from an opposite quarter
would have had an opposite effect; and strong
southerly winds were now anxiously looked for, to set
the seaward ice off shore, and facilitate the escape of
that in the bay. I should mention that the position
of the ship in this ever to be remembered locality,
was a somewhat peculiar one. The bay, in which we
were, was irregularly funnel-shaped in appearance,
fifteen miles deep, and seven broad at its entrance ;
about this were numerous shoals on which the ice was
grounded ; those on either shore were separated from it
by a channel of considerable depth. From the points,
that flanked the entrance, we had taken up a position
the previous year, nine miles distant in four fathoms
water, and about 600 yards from its western shore

GLOOMY PROSPECTS. 54I

—the bay itself presented a northerly aspect. In
It we found the compass had a variation of 112°
easterly. It required, therefore, a combination of the
most favourable circumstances to free it from its ice
The season was a backward one, there could be
no doubt J although the temperature of air was
considerably lower than in the previous year, yet the
ice was everywhere detached from the shores of the
bay, and as we had entered it so late in September
1851, when it was clear of ice, we still hoped for, and
expected a timely liberation, provided the temperature
kept up, and the great moving power— strong southerly
winds-were present. Unfortunately in both hopes
we were disappointed; the northerly winds still pre-
vailed, and the temperature fell steadUy, so that on
the 19th of August, young ice had formed on the
water, and on the 27th, it was sufficiently strong to
admit of our skating to the shore. Our summer visi-
tors of the feathery tribe, whose presence had so lately
cheered our hearts, had about this time entirely for-
saken us; and the land but so recently denuded : its
snow, had again assumed its wintry garb— too truth-
fully declaring, that the summer had passed, that
another season had commenced, and that the days of
cold and darkness were again approaching.

September came, and before its first week had
expired, aU hope of our liberation that season had
vamshed. The more sanguine amongst us had, up to
this time, clung to the hope of our being yet set free.

542

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

in consequence of the late period of the season we
had entered the bay; but the gloomy prospect then
before us, dispelled it from our minds. We had,
therefore, the cheerless and melancholy reflection that
another winter, at least, must be spent in the same
dreary locality ; this, it is needless to say, produced
a feeling of depression amongst our crew. We
had long felt the want of sufficient food, were fully
conscious of our own increasing weakness, and had
indulged too confidently in the hope, that with the
close of the season, aU the privations we had hitherto
endured would cease ; consequently in proportion to
the degree of confidence, came now the bitterness of
disappointment.

It was known that the ship was inadequately
provisioned for another year, were we to risk remain-
ing in her, with the small chances there appeared of
getting free. It, therefore, became quite clear that
all, or a portion, of our crew must leave the ship in
the ensuing spring, and that the provisions must be
still further reduced, if she was not totally abandoned.
We remained in ignorance of Captain M^Clure's
intentions on the matter, untU the 8th, when they
were made known to all on the quarter-deck.
That in the ensuing spring, he would detach from
the ship one half of the crew in two divisions : the larger
of which, consisting of the senior Lieutenant,
Assistant Surgeon, two Mates and twenty-two men,
would proceed to Cape Spencer— distant about 550

PROPOSED PLAN OP ESCAPE. 543

miles. V ith provisions for forty-five days— where we
understood u email dep6t had been left, together with
A boat. From this locality as soon as the season
would admit, they were to use their best efforts in
searchmg for a whaler, or endeavour to reach some
pomt of succour on the distant shores of Baffin's Bay
from whence they might be forwarded to England'
Ihe other and smaller party, consisting of the second
Lieutenant, Interpreter and six men were to proceed
along the shore of Banks Land, and through the
Strait of Prince of Wales to the Princess Royal Isles
where we had left a boat and dep6t of provisions!
Ihere they were to remain until the ice broke up
when they were to make an attempt to reach the
coast of America, and proceed to one of the Hudson's
Bay Company's posts on the Mackenzie River, whence
they were to be forwarded on, through North
America to England. I could only view this contem-
plated hazardous undertaking in the most serious
light, from my knowledge of the debilitated con-
dition of the men. I could arrive at no other
conclusion than that they were utterly unfit for the
performance of the service, and that they would be
stUl more so at the expiration of eight months, after
havmg passed through the trying ordeal of a third
Arctic winter. To enable men to undertake such a
journey as that by Cape Spencer, it would require
them to be in a high state of health and vigour-
even then, the risk attending it would be considerable'

544

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

The journey vid Prince of Wales Strait, was much
more likely to prove disastrous in its results. The
weakest of the men were to proceed by this route,
some of whom would be unable to walk ; and in their
condition, a sojourn of three months under canvas,
while waiting for the breaking up of the ice, foUowed
by the severe labour necessarily entailed in trans-
porting a boat through an ice encumbered sea, when
barely able to guide themselves, could not but excite
the gravest apprehensions amongst us. Captain
M'Clure had been fully informed by me, on many
former occasions, of the state of the men ; nevertheless,
I felt called on again, to represent their condition, and
to express my opinion of their unfitness for the per-
formance of this service, without entailing great and
inevitable loss of hfe. It had no result.

It only remained for us, therefore, to bear with
patience and fortitude the privations inseparable from
our situation ; to hope for strength and courage to
meet and overcome those still greater, which awaited
us; and to carry out the proposed plan, in our
respective departments with all the zeal and energy
the circumstances then imperatively demanded.

From this date, the 8th September, the provisions
were still further reduced, chiefly in vegetables— two
and a half ounces of which was the daily issue ; the
quantity of meat issued was eight ounces daily, but
making due allowance for bone in the salt, and jelly
in the fresh meat, the average weight did not exceed

WANT OF FOOD.

646

s« mjnces, which with ten ounces of flour constituted
he allowance on which we had lived for the pluvious
twelve months, the articles tea, cocoa Jd sugar
wen, .ssued in fractional parts of an ounce. That
this allowance is quite inadequate to maintain health
nan Arcti, elimate, our condition fully proved ; much
les IS It abe to sustain life for any lengthened period,
f kbonously engaged and exposed to the rigomus
severity of intense cold.
The Lime juice, the regular issue of which had been

attended with so much previous good, was at th^
time, hkewise, reduced to one half the quantity; and
to my great regret, no extra food was aUowed for the
siek imder any circumstances-the same scale of diet
being ordered for all. We had previously felt much
t e want of food. As our private mess' stock hid
been long exhausted, the officers were in the same
position as the men ; but that feeling was now
succeeded by one of absolute hunger, the cravings of
which were ever present, and the means for satisfying
■t quite madequate. Since July we had faUed to
obtain any fesh supplies, when the last Deer and
Musk Oxen were shot-the latter (two) all that
had been seen on this part of the land

August. We saw no Deer from this date until the

he ,Z "J 2" '' """^ "^ '^^ fortunate in killing
the first of the season. After the aquatic birds had
left us, about the middle of August, we procured an

N N

646

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

cccasional Hare and a few Ptarmigan, a proportion of
which I procured for the sick. In November our
eflForts in the chase were crowned with such success
that we were enabled to commence the issue of
venison three times in a fortnight, in Heu of ship's
provisions as before — a most welcome addition to our
dietary. The allowance of food was so small, and
shrunk so much when boiled or cooked, that it merely
aflForded a few mouthfuls to each, and failed to satisfy
the keen craving of the appetite. The consequence
was, that the practice of eating the salt beef and pork
raw, and the preserved meat cold or in a half frozen
state, was almost universally adopted by both oflBcers
and men ; and what under other circumstances would
appear revolting, was then eaten and enjoyed with
a degree of avidity and reUsh, which must be expe-
rienced to be fully understood ; and this, the pangs of
hunger alone prompted us to do.

This was made known to Captain M'Clure, as I
felt satisfied it would contribute much towards the
deterioration of health, and to the further develop,
ment of a scorbutic diathesis ; but it went on uninter-
ruptedly. The feeling which prompted us to the
adoption of the practice, appeared to be but little
under the control of the will ; and the natural repug-
nance to raw meat, once overcome, it was not easy for
hungry men to relinquish this more satisfactory
mode of consuming it.

The circumstaaces in wliich we were placed ap-

INCIDENTS 0? HUNOEK. 547

C 1'""'" '''*"^' '" ^"'^ ^^-J "»■» »»«»«:

tour r'" ™''""' "'* ' '"^^ °f »'»iy

fortitude, patience, and endurance, "which was most
laudable, but aU felt that the time had arrived whl

sii" ^'^T"" "■• ^»»'' offi"''' took charge, in succes-
^on, of the daUy rations as they wei. issued f«>ni the
Payniaster, which he divided into portions correspond!
mg to our numbers, and these were drawn for by lot
It was generaUy eaten at one meal,. (and that a veiy
scanty one), unless we could practice sufficient self-
demal, to save a mouthful of bread for a Uttle weak

ZmJlTT"^^ ""^ '''"^^- ^« "J'o h«-J an
8 to 12 lbs.), to see that they were carefully burned

%ht rs^ *' '■'^ "''™ "^ "'"^'^ ^f-d to

.„ h7T"^ "^ "'' ""^ '^''' ^^"y ^""J'- "'Woh only
enabkd us to have lights at certain periods of the day

at other times we had the option of either walking on

deck, or sitting in the dark. Under all these circum-

stances, lamentable ^ it was to see a body of British

officers hving in such a state, the amenities and

courtesies of the mess table .ere ever most strictly

observed. Every thing that had life was eagerly

sought and eaten, and in the officer's mess, s'eals!

N N 2

548

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Foxes, and Lemmings or Field Mice, were always
a most welcome addition to our fare.

Early in October, (4tli), the ship's company having
keenly experienced the cravings of hunger for a long
time, but lately with more severity than before, came
on the quarter-deck in a body, to ask for more food
—to their application. Captain M'^^Clure refused to
accede. At this time, also, the eflPects of cold and
hunger began to be very seriously felt, as evidenced
in the number of admissions to the sick list — more
numerous than at any former period— with diseases,
resulting from these causes. The season set in
colder than on any former occasion, and everything
foretold that the coming winter was likely to prove a
severe one— our prospect presented an indescribable
picture of gloom and misery.

This proved a very trying period— the decks were in
a most uncomfortable state, as none felt disposed to
take more exercise than that prescribed in the usual
daily routine, which was curtailed by an hour from
what it had been the previous winters. The air below
being of the unhealthy character I have before
observed, favoured in a high degree the abstraction
of caloric ; the temperature of the lower stratum, or that
near the deck, was several degrees below freezing,
while that in the upper, was an equal nimiber, Q° or
8° above it, and surcharged with moisture. The men
were constantly complaining of the cold, which was

DEPARTURE OP THE STJN. 549

not to be wondered at, considering the nature of the
atmosphere surrounding them, in which they sat
slept and ate; the discomfort of which was onlf
equalled by its insalubrity, as the sick list then but
too fully proved.

The usual winter preparations of housing in, snow-
mg the upper deck, &c., were deferred until a period
ater than heretofore, with a view of economizing the'
lights which were becoming scarce ; and it was not
until daylight was no longer available that these ope-
rations were completed-as we hoped for the last
time.

The Sun took his departure on the 7th Novem-
ber, and we were again, for the third time, shrouded
m a mantle of darkness with its usual cheerlessness
and gloom. Our chief occupation at this time was
the chase ; now become more than ever a matter
of duty for all to engage in who could ; and as
our necessities were urgent, our best energies
were devoted to it. The men had become dispirited,
from feeling their own inability to make the same ex-
ertions they had formerly done, they therefore did
not take the same active part in the hunting as here
tofore, and before the close of the year, they had
almost ceased to take any part in it, with one or two
laudable exceptions.* The entire weight of this duty,

* In connection with this suhject, I must mention the name
of James Nelson, one of our crew, a youug man of good
education and ability, an universal favourite in the ship; he

550

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

consequently, fell on the officers, who continued
their exertions with a degree of vigour and activity
beyond all praise, throughout the darkest days of an
Arctic winter, and of the coldest on record; they
were rewarded with a success worthy of their efforts.
I have elsewhere expressed my opinion that the Rein-
deer never left our neighbourhood the previous year ;
this proved to be the case, and we were signally for-
tunate in meeting with them nearer the ship than
at any former time,— they, together with an occa-
sional Ptarmigan and Hare, were shot at eveiy period
of the season.

If difficulties were encountered and privations
endured in the early spring months, I need not say
how many additional were superadded, when the
land was shrouded in darkness,— moon and stariight
alone enabling us faintly to discern the outline of the
object of which we were in eager and anxious pursuit.
No temperature however low, sometimes to 65° below
zero, detained us from the pursuit, if unaccompanied
by wind; but the latter, even in a slight degree,
proved unendurable. It was, therefore, a common
circumstance to find a hunter return, so be-
numbed and helpless as to be barely able to reach
the ship, and with utterance so impaired, as to
render his speech difficult to be understood, until

by his exertions in hunting, his cheerful character and other
good quahtier, ever acquitted himself in our trying service in a
most creditable manner.

INCIDENTS OP SPORT.

561

rest and warmth restored those powers of nature, cold
and hunger had well nigh exhausted.

Stirring incidents of sport and hair-braadth es-
capes were, therefore, frequent. On the 4th of
December while in pursuit of Reindeer at a tem-
perature of 36» below zero, my gun burst in my
hands when in the act of firing ; shattering the stock,
but fortunately injuring me but little. It resulted
from my mability to send the baU 'home,' having
been severely frost-bitten in the act. A similar cir-
cumstance occurred, on the foUowing day, to one of
our men. The blood of the Deer that were killed was
at this time, eagerly drunk by the hunter as it flowed
fresh and warm from the wound, for the vivifying
and sustaming influence it exercised; but as it froze
on the face as it flowed, he presented a frightful
spectacle on coming on board.

Two or three, at least, from our mess, went out
each day ; but to enable us to withstand the fatigue
of the chase, we were obliged to eat the greater por-
tion of our allowance, with little or nothing to refresh
us on our return, when worn out and exhausted, unless
we happened to be sucY^essful, when a ration from
our next day's provisions was given to the hunter
m heu of the perquisites, in right of his good fortune'
which were always added to the mess. At the close
of the year our united efforts had enabled us to pro-
cure nine Reindeer, which yielded 874 lbs. of meat
for general use. Tlie winter had commenced bleak and

552

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

cheerless, and maintained the same character through-
out, with a degree of cold surpassing in intensity
anything we had previously experienced, or that has
been yet recorded.

We had celebrated the discovery of the Passage,
and passed our Christmas as on former years. As it
was the last we should all spend together, unusual
care was bestowed in decorating the tables, and giving
as much ^clat to the occasion, as the creditable and
praiseworthy conduct of my associates contributed to
the enjoyment of it. At the close of the year on the
31 st December, the amount ot growing debility and
scorbutic diathesis that prevailed, contrasted widely
with our sanitary condition of the two previous years
—and the future presented nothing whatever of a
cheering prospect. We had, however, cause of grati-
tude to the Giver of all Good for His abundant
mercies, to the end of this, the third year of commis-
sion ; the number of our crew remained undiminished,
and the depressing influence of death had not yet
been felt amongst us— a circumstance hitherto un-
paralleled in the annals of Arctic voyaging.

THE NEW YEAR.

553

CHAPTER XXII.

The Year 1853-I„tensity of the Cold in the early months-
Sitate of things on Board-Reappearance of the Sun-
Preparation for Travelling-Two Wolves shot and Incident
—Hares and Lemmings— Their Habits— Party told off-
Opinions of their fitness— Increase of Pood for Travellers
-Its Effects-The Sick List-The Pirst Death on Board-
Unexpected Arrival of Lieutenant Pirn-Joyful Intelligence
of Relief— Effect produced— Reflections— A Puneral— State
of our Crew— Two Deaths occurred— Want of Remedies-
Return of Lieutenant Pim— His Kindness to us— Captain
McCIure proceeds to Melville Island— Departure of one-half
of the Crew-Return of Captain Medure-Results of Journey
—State of our Men on arriving at Melville Island— A Survey
ordered on Board ' Investigator '- Results — Ship to be
Abandoned-Preparations-Dep6t formed-Abandonment of
the 'Investigator'— Journey to Melville Island— Its Diffi-
culties— Incidents— Our Arrival on Board the • Resoluie'
and Incidents.

The year 1853 did not dawn on us auspiciously;
there was but little in our present condition to
afford us matter for congratulation, and in the future

AW'

654

TUB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

there was nothing whatever of a pleasing prospect.
Thus we entered on the fourth year of the ship's com-
mission, under circumstances precisely similar as those?
with which the preceding one had closed. The south-
west gale continued, we dared not venture outside
the ship, and the cold was most intense.

Our occupations were such as I have elsewhere
spoken of — the same necessity existing for making
similar exertions in the chase, and of undergoing the
same hardships and privations. In the month of
January, the temperature fell lower than has ever
been experienced by any former Expedition — to (55°
below zero, and in the interval of the usual period
for taking the observations it fell to —07°, as the
force of the wind was likewise greater 4.15. The
mean temperature of the month was 43.87 below zero,
lower than we had known it during any former winter,
and, I believe, surpassing in degree anything recorded
in former Polar voyages. The 6th January was the
coldest day that has ever been known in these latitudes
— the mean temperature for twenty-four hours was
61°.6 below zero — and in the twenty-four subsequent
hours 5 6°. 7 — from which some idea may perhaps be
formed of the intensity of the cold, during this the
coldest of the cold winter months. This low degree
of cold, however, did not deter us from our usual
pursuits, and on the 6th, two Deer were shot, and
the day following a few Ptarmigan. Such was the
value attached to them, that we considered ourselves

OUR CONDITION.

555

well rewarded for what we had endured; indeed, the
prospect of procuring even a solitary bird was suffi-
cent inducement to undergo whatever amount of
tatiguc we were capable of sustaining.

The state of matters on board at this time was
gloomy to a degree. The sick-bay was full of
occupants, and the greater part of the lower deck
taxen up by hammocks, for I felt it necessary
to keep the sick in bed, as the only means at
my command of producing warmth. Dysentery
and other exhausting diseases were very general
amongst the men, from the effects of cold and hunger
actmg on debilitated and scorbutic bodies. A few
hours illness would produce the most alarming degree
of prostration I have ever witnessed,--fainting and
syncope were constantly present on making the
slightest exertion. It was really pitiable to view what
a wreck a man became after a alight attack of illness •
and scurvy of an aggravated character seldom failed
to supervene.

The reappearance of the Sun was as usual gladly
hailed by us all on the same day as in the previous
year, but the cold, notwithstanding, continued
very severe in the months of February and March,
—the mean of these months being 38°.5 and 25°.4
below zero ; considerably exceeding those of any former
year, and the winter had been throughout unparalleled
m Its rigour and severity. We were in ignorance of the
men who would be detached from the ship-no com-

556

THE NORTLi-WMST PASSAGE.

miinlcation lipving as yet l)pon made to us on tho
subject, anrl as each man apptarnd to think himself
quite unahit) to j^ through another wint ■ he pre-
ferred running the hazardous risk of the contem-
plated journey. Consequently, during the winter,
almost the entire crew occupied themselves in making
preparation for the expected march.

A party having been dispatched for a Deer on the
23rd of March, shot on the previous day, found a large
Wo\( {Canis Lupus) feeding on the carcase — they fired
without effect, and he ran off a short distance. They
then concealed themselves about 100 yards off,
and he again returned ; when a shot from Sergeant
M an's gun passed through his chest, pierced his heart,
and he fell dead on the body of the animal he was
devouring. He was a fine specimen, with a skin of
spotless white ; weighed eighty pounds, was five feet
ten inches in length, and three feet four inches in
height. The meat when cooked was excellent — much
resembling in taste that of Fox— and we considered it
preferable to Bear's flesh. Mr. Court when out shooting
a few days I iter, met with a pack of seven— one
advanced before him, another behind, howling as they
approached, evidently with no friendly intention; the
others were concealed behind the ridge of the hill.
He vainly made sundry efforts to frighten them, then
taking aim at tliR nearest, wounded it mortally in the
neck, and it fell, ^'it still strove to reach him by
crawling : the Jivxi ; oi hc-'ever, was fatal, and the

HARM ASD LEMMINO. 557

otte' seeing the fate of his comrade, went off Mr
&.urt returned to the slip with the inteUigenee of his
adventure when a pledge was sent for the prize,-a
fine dog Wolf weighing seventy pounds. Although
wo hud hUherto frequently pursued these animals, we
wore seldom abln to got a .hot at them. This was an
instance of thci, femdty-showing that they wUl
attack smgic Individuals if pressed by hunger

We had remarked throughout the winter that
ilnres. Foxes, Lemmings, and birds, all burrowed in
the snow for the sake of warmth. The Hares (Lepus
Olacu,hs) frequented some localities in considerable
numbers-conveying the idea of their being at certain
seasons gregarious, as they were met with abundantly
. obout cliffy headlands and ravines, where the large
ston^ and debris afford good cover, but rcadit
abandoned theii position on any great cause of alarm ;
one day s shooting being generaUy sufficient to banish
these tnmd animals from a locality. They were
frequently found on the ice two or three mUes from
land-a favourite resort of theirs during spring and
wmter-undcr the shelter of large hummocks The
averse weight is about seven pounds, they are very
mvlific bre.d three or four times in the year, and
or.,.g forth eight or ten at a birth ; they were found
in the highest latitudes we had explored.

The Lemmings or Mice (Mm Hudsonius) are met
with m vast numbera in some regions m the north,
and aro very abundant in Baring and MelvUlc Islands

558

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

.£ ;

They are about four inches long, white in winter, of a
beautifully mottled grey colour in summer, the fur
being very soft and fine. They subsist chiefly on the
vegetable products of the soil — dwarf willow and the
grasses, &c. — but they have likewise a carnivorous
propensity, for I have frequently known them to eat
each other. They generally bring forth from two to six
at a birth ; in a few instances as many as eight or
nine. The flesh is delicate and tender, and was
gladly eaten when it could be procured. They are
met with in great numbers on the ice during the
season of thaw.

It was not until the 2nd March, the day following
the montldy inspection, that Captain M'Clure made
known to me his intention of dispatching the weaker
half of our crew from the ship, and retaining the most
efficient ; at the same time, he requested me to make
the necessary selection. On the day following, the men
were told off*, much to the delight of those about to
depart, and to the evident and bitter disappointment
of the others. I then deemed it my duty to place on
record (by letter) my opinion, combined with that of
my Assistant Surgeon (Mr. Piers) of the absolute un-
fitness of the men for the performance of this journey.
It was about the same time determined that they
should be dispatched from the ship on the 15th of
April or thereabouts, and as the Captain had ex- "
pressed his intention of placing them on our former
scale of full diet for a month, previous to their depar-

THE FIRST DEATH.

550

ture, with a view of preparing them for their long and
hazardous journey -on the 15th March this change
commenced. Towards the beginning of April, I could
see an improvement in their appearance; the face
had not only become fuller, but more animated in
expression : the duU, haggard stare of former days was
less marked, and they likewise had become more
generally cheerful.

The sick list, which, during the three preceding
months had considerably exceeded that of any former
period, was. in the beginning of April, somewhat re-
duced ; but some of the men were in a veiy pre-
carious condition, and on the night of the 5th, death
for the first time made its appearance amongst us
and removed from this world, John Boyle, (A. B.) after
a short iUness, from the exhausting eflPects of dysentery
actmg on a scorbutic habit. He had spoken cheer!
tully a few minutes before death, but on making
a slight exertion in his bed, sudden syncope ensued
and he died without a struggle. This man had been
appomted only the day before, as an extra attendant
m the sick bay, and it was reported to me that he
had taken some medicine out of a bottle which caused
his death. I at once fully investigated the matter
and found it without the slightest foundation. This
melancholy occurrence exercised a depreaeing influence
throughout the ship. Those who were destined to
remam, appeared to view it with the greater degree of
apprehension, while those who were about to depart

660

TUB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

silently congratulated themselves on the better
fortune, which was soon to remove them from the
scene of their suffering.

Such was the state of things when this melancholy
occurrence took place ; but, through the mercy and
goodness of Providence, a most unlooked for event
occurred, which completely altered the whole aspect of
affairs, and dispelled the lowering cloud of darkness
that hung ominously around us, by sending the most
timely succour and relief.

It was at 4 p.m. on the e'temoon of the 6th of
April, all was silent in and about the ship, four men
were on shore, making a grave for their departed
shipmate, distant from the ship about 400 yards ;
two officers were returning across the ice from super-
intending the work, when a figure was observed
approaching from the rough ice to seaward. They at
first supposed him to be one of our men, but as he
came towards them, he proved to be a stranger.
He was Lieutenant Pim, of H.M.S. * Resolute,' from
Melville Island, who had most Providentially reached
the • Investigator ' after a most severe and harassing
journey of twenty-eight days, being then the earliest
Polar travelling on record, and made his appearance
amongst us as a deliverer. Immediately a distant
object was observed, treading its way through the
rough ice, which proved to be his sledge drawn by
five Esquimaux dogs and two men. I cannot attempt
to convey any idea of the scene which took place on

ARRIVAL OF LIEUTENANT PIM. 561

board, or the expressions of joy and gladness which
were so abundantly poured forth, when the intelli-
gence that flew with the rapidity of lightning from
stem to stern, became known. It was at first pro-
nounced either a mistake or a joke. Indeed, the mind
for a moment appeared confused, as if unable to com-
prehend the truth of what was heard, and several
strange involuntary questions were hastily muttered
asked and answered in a breath. At length when
thoroughly aware of the reality, and fully aroused by
a shout of joy, raised by a few men on deck, announc
ing the approach of the stranger, there was a sudden
and simultaneous rush to the hatchways ; the weak and
the strong, " the maimed, the halt and the blind "
followmg each other, amazed and agitated, as fast as
their enfeebled hmbs could bear them, until the deck
was gamed, and they were afforded an opportunity
of verifying what they had just heard. Some a^
doubting the reality of what they saw, rushed out
on the ice, and were not satisfied till they met Lieu-
tenant Pim, touched him, handled him, and heard
him speak, when they no longer doubted. He was
the first of our countrymen we had seen, or whose
voice we had heard, for three long and dreary years.
The sledge soon followed, and the party were received
by three as hearty cheers as ever came from the lungs
of British sailors. No words could express the feel-
mgs of heartfelt gladness which all experienced, at this
unlocked for, this most Providential arrival. Relief

o o

562

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

was now at hand — succour had reached us. On men
who believed that there was no other ship within the
Arctic circle than our own, and relying as we were
entirely on our own resources, the joy and dehght
which this arrival produced, baffles all attempts at
discription. The circumstances which brought about
this happy result may be briefly told. On the arrival of
H.M. Ships ' Resolute ' and ' Intrepid ' at Dealy Island,
off Melville Island, in the autumn of the previous year,
1852, from England, and while employed in laying
out provision depots, to facilitate the spring travel-
ling, in prosecution of the search for ourselves, or
Sir J. Pranklin's Expedition : they found at Winter
Harbour the record which Captain M'Clure had de-
posited there in April 1852, an event as unlooked
for by them, as the arrival of their party was unex-
pected by us. On receipt of the record. Captain
Kellett determined to send a party in search of us at
the earUest period of spring, and accordingly on the
10th of March, dispatched that enterprising and in-
trepid officer, (Lieutenant Pim) and his associates, in
search of us. The party, which was originally intended
to proceed md Prince of Wales Strait to the Mackenzie
River, was now united with that intended to go to
Cape Spencer, both proceeding direct to the * Reso-
lute,' — the Mackenzie River route being abandoned.

We continued to indulge in feelings of inexpressible
delight and gratitude, at the Providential goodness
which had brought us such timely succour ; nothing

LIEUTENANT PIm's RETURN. 563

was spoken of, but the aU engrossing topic of this
happy and unexpected relief. A new era had dawned
on us after so long a period of such trying service •
we were, at length, placed in communicatiun with the
civihzed world from which we had been so long shut
out and we had then a safe and certain depot to fall
back on should we fail in liberating the ship. The
strange feeling we experienced on receiving European
intelligence after years of absence, baffles all des-
cription ; it afforded us the most delightful novelty and
relief, from the dull, unvarying topics of our daily
conversation. I may here remark that in our days of
adversity, there was no more popular theme amongst
us, than the luxuries of other climes. It has been
generally remarked, that hungiy men are prone to
indulge in such topics of converaation.

After one day's rest. Lieutenant Pim and party left
us on their return to the 'Resolute,' carrying with
hmi all our best thanks and wishes for the strenuous
exertions he had made to reach us. It affords me
unalloyed pleasure here to record the debt of gratitude
I must, m common with aU the ' Investigators,' ever feel
towards this officer. He was a volunteer for the duty
of searching for us, and undertook the journey at an
unprecedented early period of the year, (10th of March )
at a temperature of 50^ below zeix)-nor is it this alone
which entitles him to our gratitude, as nothing could
exceed the kindness and warmth of feeling he showed
towards us, particularly when pressing on our acceptance

oo 2

564

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

many little things of which we stood in need. But when
he saw us sitting down with a half-starved aspect, on
the morning after his arrival, to what was denominated
breakfast, (a cup of weak cocoa without sugar, and a
moiety of bread) his feelings overcame him; he rushed
to his sledge, then out on the ice, brought a large
piece of bacon, placed it before us, and gave us the
only breakfast we had known for many a long day.
The remembrance of this, and his other acts of kind-
ness to us then, will I hope, never be effaced from our
recoUoction. Nor did the two gallant fellows who
accompanied him, and who aided in our relief,
(Thomas Bidgood and Robert Hoyle) feel less for our
condition ; for they had just arrived, as our men were
about to draw lots for their evening meal (a pannikin
of tea and a little biscuit) — a novel sight to them who
had come from a land of plenty ; but so overcome
were they at the sight of our haggard crew, that their
manly cheeks became moistened with tears. Captain
M^Clure, with an officer and six men, equipped with
sledge and provisions, left also, the same day, the 8th,
to put himself in personal communication with the
Senior officer at Melville Island.

On the 8th, we had to perform the melancholy
duty of interring the body of our late shipmate — the
first ceremony of the kind since the ship's commission.
The procession wending its way over the ice to the
adjacent beach — where we laid him in his cold and icy
grave — presanted a picture of the most touching

DEATH.

565

solemnity. Relief had not come too soon, our men
being m such a state of scorbutic debility, that a
slight illness, which under other circumstances would
pass unheeded, was ever attended with danger.

I had long felt acutely the painful position in
which I was placed, from the scanty means at ray
command for their aUeviation; hunger was ever
present ; it lay not in my power to give them any
extra food, and the lime juice was also hmited.
Indeed, so scanty was this, that I could only give it in
the most sparing quantity, and could not continue its
administration sufficiently long to be permanently
beneficial— merely allaying the more urgent scorbutic
symptoms— so as to allow me to extend its benefits to
other sufferers. Even with a more liberal supply, it
would have been next to an impossibility to have
eradicated the disease, or to establish permanent good
results, the same causes for its production being still
present ; neither could I give sufficient support to the
system when improvement did take place, and they be-
gan to rally from their state of languor and prostration.
As these were the remedial agents then most
requisite, our losses by death were entirely owing to
the want of them. The second death occurred on the
11th— that of John Ames, from dropsy supervening on
an affection of the heart of only nine days duration,
m a man of scorbutic habit ; and the third, and last,
on the following day, was that of John Kerr, gunner's
mate, who had been long suffering from scurvy and

666

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAQE.

debility, on which general dropsy supervened. This
man was so debilitated when first brought before me,
that he could not stand without support — a common
circumstance with many, on slight attacks of illness.
Dropsical diseases wore at this time of very frequent
occurrence, owing to the vitiated state of the blood,
and the readiness with which it was poured out into
the cavities on the slightest cause. We had thus
several acts of mournful duty to perform ; all these
deaths having taken place in the course of one week.
Had not the party about to start from the ship been
recruited, there was but little doubt that the more
debilitated must soon have shared the fate of their
shipmates — so ill adapted were they to resist any
form of disease.

The intense coldness of the air was extremely
trying to the invalids, when recovery had so far
progressed as to enable them to take a little exer-
cise in the open air ; particularly to those suffering
from any form of pulmonary disease, where the
transition of temperature from the lower to the upper
deck, by merely walking up a few steps of a ladder,
at times exceeded one hundred degrees. It, therefore,
became necessary to guard as much as possible
against its evil effects, by wearing a fold of the netted
woollen comforter over the mouth, in the form of a
respirator. I had one of Jeffrey's respirators in use,
and tested its efficacy in the coldest tempera-
tures. I found that it considerably modified the

DEPARTURE OF HALF OUR CREW.

567

irritating effects of the inhahtion of cold air, until the
accumulation of ice obstructed it. I can, therefore,
strongly recommend it, as it enabled me to allow
invalids in the coldest weather, such an amount of
exercise as 1 deemed it necessary for them to take.

From this date untU the 13th, aU waa bustle and
preparation amongst us. The travellers, overjoyed at
the change which had taken place in their prospects,
were in high spirits, and now gladly looked forward
to the day of their departure. On the I5th of April,
therefore, at 3 p.m., the party started, under the
command of Lieutenant Cresswell, consisting of Mr.
Wynniatt, (Mate), Mr. Piers, (Assistant-Surgeon), the
Interpreter, and twenty-four seamen and marines,
with three sledges and provisions for twenty-four
days. They were accompanied by a fatigue party
from the ship for four days to assist them over the
rough ice ; and they left us with three hearty cheers, as
strong and loud as twenty weak men could give them,
and with every wish for their safety. Mr. Paine and I
accompanied them for some distance, until a snow-
storm compelled our return.

The appearance of the party, as the sledges formed
in hne, wending their way over the ice, at times en-
veloped in thick snow-drift that swept wildly around
them was remarkably wild and forlorn, and they thus
commenced their journey on a cold and cheerless even-
ing, with the prospect of an icy bed before them. They
started in high spirits, and with very different feelings.

568

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE

from what they would have experienced with the
prospect before them of the hazardous Cape Spencer
journey ; for they had left a ship whore privation had
been long and severely felt, for one where plenty was
to be found. A knowledge of this had a most ex-
hilarating influence, and antagonized the effects of such
laborious travelling. I am of oi)inion, that, had the
original plan been carried out, they could not have
started the sledges from the ship with forty-two days
provisions as intended ; and if even assisted in doing so,
that few, if any, would have lived to tell the t;ile of
their heroism and suffering. Although it was not
our lot to accompany them, we heartily rejoiced that
their condition would soon undergo a change, and
that the carrying out such a desperate and hopeless
plan of escape, had been so Providentially averted.
Four officers were detained on board, one of whom
was confined to bed and unable to accompany the
party as originally intended— Mr. Sainsbury, (Mate),
then suffering from a pulmonary affection, whose
removal at that early period would have been attended
with danger. Another, the senior Lieutenant, was
detained to take a party of invalids across at a later
period of the season. Our supplies of fresh nicat had
been for some time exhausted, and although a few of
us on board vigorously continued the hunting, our
success was very trifling, as the Deer had almost
entirely abandoned our neighbourhood. We succeeded
in killing two — a result which formed a remarkable

; *i

STATE OP OUR MEN.

569

contrast with the produce of our sport the previous
year when the animals wore more abundant than
we had before known chem, and our success ex-
ceeded that of any former period.

No addition, whatever, had been made to the scale
of diet, before Captain M^Chire started for Melville
island ; the men complained still more of growing
weakness and debility, and several cases of scurvy
'vere added to the sick list; as I had not yet the
po«^er to benefit them, by givmg the nourishment they
reqmred, which was then so essential to their re-
covery but such a state of things was fortunately
destined to be of short continuance. It was at this
time lamentable to witness the pale, haggard aspect
of our men, stalking about the decks like living
spectres cold and hungry, for daylight now fully re
vealed all their imperfections : so sadly altered were
they, from what they had once been

On the 19th of May, a party of travellers was
observed approaching the ship, which proved to be
that of Captain M^Clure, returning from Melville
Island, after an absence of six weeks. The arrival
was gladly hailed, for it was generally considered
that the communication with a Senior officer would be
attended with good results, that some change, at least,
for the better, must take place in our aflPairs, and that
real and substantial relief was, at length, about to be
afforded us. We then learned that our party had
reached their destination in safety on the 2nd of May

i-:

670

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

after little more than sixteen days travelling. Some
were obliged to be carried on the sledges, several were
incapacitated from dragging, and all arrived in a state
of great exhaustion and debility — so much so, that to
lighten the sledges they threw away their spare clothing
on the ice— and nearly all were placed on the sick list.
Captain Kellett seeing the sad state in which they
had arrived, ordered the Medical Officers to hold a
survey and give a report on their condition. It
was generally remarked, how vacant was the stare
and how fatuous and inexpressive their countenances
when contrasted with healthy men, by those un-
accustomed to view such objects as the ' Investigators'
then presented ; thus aflFording truthful evidence of the
shock which the intellectual faculties had sustained,
and the mental prostration that ensued after so
long a period of complete isolation from the world
under such trying circumstances.

They were all found in a state of greater or less
debility, and the scorbutic taint universally existing in
various degrees of aggravation. The consequence was,
that Captain Kellett at once determined, very judi-
ciously, to direct a Survey to be held on the men left
in the ' Investigator', and for this purpose dispatched
the Surgeon of the * Resolute,' on the return of Captain
M'^Clure, to co-operate with myself in doing so.
Captain Kellett had been imperfectly informed of the
health of these men. In the despatches brought to us by
Lieutenant Pim, (since pubhshed in the Parliamentary

CAPTAIN KELLETT.

571

Blue Book) he desired Captain M'f lure to caU on me
for a report of the actual state of health of the crew •
but no intimation whatever was made to mc on the
subject-Captain M^Clure having reserved that duty
for himself. ^

It had become a doubtful question with Captain
Kellet on whom the responsibility devolved, how far
It would bo prudent, from the state in which he saw
our men arrive, to allow us to remain longer in the
ship, with so much risk to the iealth and lives of all
tie had had already a specimen of our diplomatic
shlhn Behnng's Strait, in 1850^the remembrance of
which, may, doubtless, have influenced him in
receiving Captain M^Clure's verbal report of our state
ot health and efficiency with great caution, as he had
ample reason to distrust us. In the absence, there-
fore, of an official report from me, which he had called
for and on which he would have acted, he ordered
aud directed the survey to be held, that on the
report, he might be justified, or otherwise, in ordering
he abandonment of the ship. He, at the same time
(at the request of Captain M^Clure), sent orders, that if
the latter could procure twenty volunteers, (officers
and men)~the number he considered necessary to
work the ship-whose state of health was approved
of by the Medical Officers, he would allow them
to remain by the ship, and await the chances the
coming season might afford us, of effecting our
liberation, or, otherwise: and these orders were ac

i'l ?'

572

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

cordingly read on the quarter-deck, on Sunday the 22nd,
the day following their arrival. I could not but ob-
serve how earnestly the men deliberated over the mat-
ter in groups of two and three for the remainder of
the day. On the next day the Survey took place,
and the result left no doubt on our minds upon the
question of efficiency, as, I regret to say, there were
none of them found free from the scorbutic taint,
which was in various stages of development. With a
view of conveying a more truthful idea of their state,
a few of the actual appearances were noted down in
the report ; this was forwarded, and fully proved
the sad state to which our brave crew had been re-
duced. In addition to these symptoms, all complained
of loss of flesh and strength, as well as of greatly in-
creasing weakness and debility, on making slight ex-
ertion. They were, at the same time, asked if they
would volunteer for further service in the ship, under
the circumstances I have narrated above ; but there
were only four of the men who were found willing
to do so ; however, the few officers remaining, four,
with one warrant officer, at once volunteered for
further service, as an example to the men — but all in
vain. The volunteers thus forthcoming, fell far short
of the estimated number considered necessary to
work the ship, and the question of remaining longer
in her was finally settled.

This did not entail the necessity of a medical
report, to justify the adoption of such a measure as

A CHANGE OP DIET.

573

the abandonment of the ship ; nevertheless, in obe-
dience to the order of tlie Senior officer, which had
been received, a report was drawn up after mature
dehberation, was fully expressive of the unanimity
of opmion we (the Medical officers,) entertained of
the condition of the crew, after their long period
of service in the Polar Sea.

It was, therefore, decided that the ' Investigator'
must be abandoned, and the ship's company were
summoned on deck to hear the official announcement.
It appeared to be received with evident satisfaction
by all. The men were ordered to be placed on full
allowance of provisions -and thus ended our days of
mffeiing, privation, and hunger. I then represented
the necessity of giving them as liberal a proportion of
anti-scorbutic food, as I thought judicious, under the
circumstances, in the articles of lime juice and
vegetables ; this was attended to-and from this date
they were but little restricted in anything except
spirits. The effect of this sudden change of diet was
remarkable, although nothing more, .perhaps, than
what might, under the circumstances, have been ex-
pected from men, who, for upwards of twenty months,
had never known what it was to have a good meal'
but, who, during all this time, day after day, had
suffered from the pangs of that hunger, which they
could not appease. They ate, or rather devoured their
food ravenously at first, on being suddenly transferred
from want and semi-starvation to the enjoyment of

1 1

574

THB NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

food in abundance, and this produced much mnctional
derangement of stomach — long unused to a sense
of repletion. The consequence was, the biliary and
other secretions became much disordered, sickness,
pain at stomach, and other affections, supervened with
complete loss of appetite, and a general feeling of
languor and prostration, which, in a greater or less
degree, affected us all. Many required treatment, and
a few were so unwell, as to render it necessary to place
them on the sick list. We immediately commenced
forming a depot of stores and provisions on the
beach, embracing the greater part of everything
the ship contained, that could aid or succour any
unfortunate travellers likely to be cast on these desolate
shores, and in the probability there existed of the
ship being eventually destroyed by the power of that
element, with which she had hitherto so often con-
tended successfully.

I cannot conclude these remarks without noticing the
noble spirit and patriotic feeling that had animated the
Ship's company in the almost super-human exertions,
hitherto made under the most severe and trying
circumstances — such as it has fallen to the lot of but
few to encounter. I knew what they had been ex-
posed to, and what they had endured, I had wit-
nessed their courage, and daring in many eventful
scenes ; had seen their manly forms gradually shrink
under hunger and cold, and had marked their patience
and fortitude when suffering from disease ; and certain

ABANDONMENT OF ' INVESTIGATOR.' 575

do I feel that the records of their deeds, ought to
form one of the brightest pages in the history of our
country. "^

On the evening of the 24th of May, the Surgeon
of the Resohite' and party, left on their return Mr
Sainsbuiy was sent with them, he having rallied
considerably: I considered the joumey could be
performed by him with the less danger, as they in-
ended to travel by easy stages. I accompanied them
tor some distance on their way.

All work having been completed towards the end
of May, and the greater part of the provisions and stores
having been placed in safety on the beach, a cairn
was erected on a neighbouring hill, in which was
deposited a record of our sojourn in the Bay, and of
our abandonment of the ship. On the 30th, we per-
formed the last sad duty to our departed shipmates,
by erecting a tablet to their memory, to tell how
nobly they fell in discharging their duty to their
country. We could not view the three solita^
mounds on the beach, without feelings of poignant
sorrow, that these brave fellows had not been spared
to accompany us.

On the 2nd of June, the sledges were packed, and
everything got in readiness to start at an hour's
notice. As each officer and man was limited to a
certain weight, suited to the strength of their respec-
tive parties, we were only enabled to take with us a
change of clothing, and a few smaU things-everything

I ki 'I

•!

576

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

else was left in the ship. The long looked for, and
anxiously expected day, the 3rd of June, at length
came. The weather was cloudy and threatening in
the morning, presenting nothing whatever cheering
in its aspect ; this the appearance of snow and a
dense, heavy atmosphere, tended in no degree to im-
prove. The ship was cleaned throughout from stem
to stern, and everything left in perfect order, so as to
be immediately available for any party whom adverse
fate might compel to seek for succour in the Bay of
Mercy, At 5.30 p.m., all being mustered at divisions
on deck. Captain M'^Clure, the Senior Lieutenant,
ana myself mspected the ship for the last time ; a few
words, not complimentary, were addressed to the
men, and all were piped to take their places at their
respective sledges, then on the ice.

Tlie white ensign of St. George was hoisted
at the peak, and the pendant at the main, which
flaunted gaily in the breeze as we stepped over the
side of the ship that had so long been our home,
never to visit her again. The carpenters, who remained
to batten down the hatches and secure the gangways,
were the last, to leave— then the ' Investigator ' was
finally abandoned to her fate. As we stood on the
ice, and took a last view of our fine old ship, we
could n t but do so with a grateful recollection, con-
sidering how far she had borne us, through what
dangers she had carried us, and the safe asylum she
had so long afforded us. But while we entertained those

DEPARTURE FROM 'INVESTIGATOR.' 577

feelings, which sailors are prone to indulge in for
their vessels, we felt that the time had arrived when it
became imperative to abandon her, and consequently
we could feel no regret at leaving a ship where every
form of pnvation had been so long endured

The sledges having been drawn up in order on
the ice, were commanded as follows :

1st sledge, Captain M^Clure 6 men

2nd „ Lieut. Haswell and Mr. Paine 8

8rd „ Mr. Court ' q "

4th „ Dr. Armstrong g

All, of o»„„e, were under the orders of Captain
M Cure, who pioneered the way, by walking a-head.
We the officer) felt it our duty, mther than avail
oui^elves of our privUege of merely diluting the
sledg^, to bestow aU our strength on the drag ropes ■
accordingly we took our places with the men, as some
of them were in a very weak state; at the same time
guiding eiuih sledge, and attending to all the minor
duties mcidental to its charge. At 6.10 pm there
fore, with a fresh breeze from the south-west 'having
set sail, we started in silence, turned our backs on the
Investigator' for ever, and made our first step on
the long wished for homeward journey.

The weight of the sledges was from 1200 to
1400 lbs. according to the strength of the party, having
provisions for eighteen days. We followed the plan

r p

578

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

previously adopted of travelling and sleeping six hours
alternately, as our strength did not admit of our
working for a longer period. We encamped the first
night on the ice off Point Back, our invalids having
felt much the effects of this— the first journey. Until
the 5th, we proceeded along the northern coast of
Banks Land, as far as Cape Hamilton, from whence
we shaped a course across the Strait for the nearest
point of Melville Island (Cape Hay). We encoun-
tered for the first few marches, tremendous packed
ice; our progress was therefore very slow. As wc
were unable to advance singly with our sledges, two
crews were given to each, and in this way wc
dragged them by degrees — on some occasions not
making more than a mile in the six hours. So worn
out were we at times, that we were obliged to encamp
after two or three hours of this severe labour.

It is impossible to convey a truthful idea of the
labour of dragging a sledge over rough ice ; at times
it can only be moved a few feet, until it be again
arrested by a nigged or almost precipitous wall of
rough, broken up floe ice ; or becomes deeply immersed
in intervening, soft snow, requiring the aid of spade
and pickaxe for its extraction. Notwithstanding all the
care we could bestow, accidents frequently occurred
to these vehicles, and we were obliged to encamp
until they were repaired. To add to our difficulties,
several of the mert had become afflicted with snow
blindness, but still dragging blind-folded, were con-

ARCTIC TnAVBU.IVG.

579

^tn ly slipping and falling in the drag .-opes. Others

Z '" T*"'"':' "'' """ ">«^ I""' "i'l'^r to walk or
be earned, this throw additional labour on the
mamder, b„t we still toiled wearily on. We all
suffered much from thh.t-„ feeling that, in warm
I mates ,s trifling when compared witi the in-
satiable eravmg for water, which Arctic travellers
expenenc. It is rendered still more urgent by
evera labour and exhaustion-always preceding
the latter, and inseparable from its presence. Snow
was e.ten with avidity_b„t only to incrense
the evd and excoriate the mouth; to obviate this,

.latcd ,n a ball, and then sucked it by decrees
As the thaw advanced, and icicles began itml
was a great relief to us. for we would Liy then"' in
our pockets without thawing, and refresh ou'rsc
we advanced. Although it was then the height of
summer, the temperature in the night journey frc
quendy fro.e the moccasins or boots to our feeT tat
during the sleeping hour, they were thawed and dried '
2 exposure to the sun. by suspending them „.«e

On the 13th. we reached Melville Island, en-
camped under the bold and lofty Cape Hay ,Zt
wcnty yards from the shore. L got alppt
feh water from a stream running do^n its froTt.'so
welcome was it. that the tent was no sooner pitched
than we all eagerly ran to drink. Our travelling for the

P p 2

580

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

next few days was over young ice ; we made good
progress, and on the 15th, we encamped off the
entrance of Winter Harbour. The thaw had then
progressed so rapidly that we had sometimes difficulty
in finding a bed of snow on which to pitch the tent ;
and after we did so, ana had lain on it for some time,
we found ourselves in a pool of water ; but fortunately
with the intervention of a tarpaulin. We suffered,
however, severely from the thaw, and our constant
immersion in pools, from twelve to eighteen inches
deep, so benumbed the feet and legs, that we were
occasionally frost-bitten; and as yoimg ice formed
nightly on them, its sharp spicula cut up our canvas-
boots very much. The travelling was beginning to tell
on us very sensibly— after a march we found our feet
and legs swollen, pains and stiflhess about the joints,
severe spasms in chest from the effects of the drag-
rope, as well as suffered a degree of languor and ex-
haustion, which completely prostrated us, and forcibly
intimated how ill adapted we were for a much longer
continuance of the journey.

On the 17th, to our great joy, we encamped within
sight of Dealy Island, and could faintly discern
the outhne of the ships. At 2 p.m., after four hours
rest, we commenced oiu* last march, having previously
washed our faces in a pool, to add somewhat to the
respectability of our appearance — for we were truly
a haggard looking, toil-worn party. Nothing was
talked of for the remainder of the journey, but the

ARRIVAL AT DEALY ISLAND. 581

pleasure we should experience on reaching the ships, to
which we looked forward with delightful anticipations
We were m hopes of accomplishing it in a few hours
when we should be again amongst fellow countrymen'
see new faces, hear strange voices, and become once
more connected with the civilized world. The march
was a long and trying one ; aa we advanced all eyes
were eagerly bent in the direction of the ships, whose
dark outlme was then pretty distinct. We had reached
withm about two miles, when we were met by several
officers of the • Resolute ' and ' Intrepid,' from whom
we received a cordial welcome. They had with great
kmdness and consideration brought us some refresh-
ment. We were joined, in a few minutes afterwards
by all our old shipmates, who were able to come out, and
they ran eagerly to meet us. Salutations and greetings
warm and cordial were exchanged; shipmates and
messmates, who uad only so very recently parted, again
met as if years of absence had intervened; and the
hearty greeting, the word of welcome, and the joyous
laugh succeeded each other, as tbey tackled to our
sledges, which they bore rapidly along. I should not
have beUeved such an alteration could have taken place
m the appearance of our men since they left us only
two months before; some of them I did not at first
recogmze, so stout and fat had they become, contrast-
mg wondeifuUy with the gaunt, haggard appearance
of former days. Their faces now glowed with a
cheerful smile, declaring how heartily they welcomed

582

TIIK NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

US to a harbour of safety and succour. Our numbers
increased as we advanced— all the officers and men of
both ships having couu) out to meet us. The ships
were gaily decorated in honour of our arrival, the
remnant of their crews were drawn up on the ice to
receive us, with Captain Kellett at their head ; and
those who had previously joined us, fell out of the
sledge, and received us with three loud and hearty
Biitish cheers — a few steps brought us alongside the
' Resolute,' and we at length experienced the pleasant
realization of all our hopes and wishes.

A distribution of our crew then took place between
the two ships — the majority of the officers with myself,
and twenty-two men were sent to the 'Intrepid.'
Captain M'Clure, and the remainder were retained in
the ' Resolute.' We found that Captain Kellett had
kindly made every preparation for our reception, on
board the former ship, compatible with her accom-
modation and the means at his disposal, by ereetiu"-
temporary cabins in the steerage outside the Gun-
room. The officers had provided everything that
could possibly contribute to our comfort, and received
us in the kindest manner ; they had prepared us a
most luxuriant repast, such as we had not known for
many a long day ; and I need not say how much the
hungry ' Investigators ' did justice to the fare, as we
felt the days of adversity had at lengtli come to au
end.

TIIK ' RKSOI.UTE.'

683

CHAPTER XXIII.

The 'Resolute '-Intelligence received-Improvement iu Health
-Sportiiig Parties-State of the Ice-Drifted off the Land-
Release of the Ships-Cruising-Shipa beset in young Ice
--Dnftmg-Winter Quarters-Oar Disappointment-Death
ot Mr. Samsbury-His Funeral-The Winter-The Year
1854-Commenccmeat of the Fifth Year of Arctic Service-
Departure of our Crew to Beechey Island-Mode of Travel-
li»g and Incidents of the Journey-Ice Travelling in the
Spnng-Arrival on Board H.M.S 'North Star '-Death
of Thomas Morgan - Abandonment of 'Resolute' and
•Intrepid'- Intelligence received of ' Enterprise '—A Visit
to the 'Investigator '-State in which she was found-
Inferences - Incidents - Abandonment of 'Assistance' and
'Pioneer '-Arrivals -Departure from Beechey Island-
Incidents— Arrival in England.

With our arrival on board the ' Resolute ' I con-
sider the Narrative of the ' Investigator's ' voyage
ceases ; although I have before me copious notes of
our daily proceedings until we reached England;
their publication is not within the limits of this
work. Indeed, I have neither wish nor inclination

•M

TIIK NdllTII.WKfIT rAMNAdlf.

to nnrrnt<» lliom. II whh niir lot to hv drtniiind for
nuolhcr ymv in tln« m\ n\u\ it would ill jmcoiiio itio
to roiiiMiont oil, or rritiiMNo tJu^ iniHtuMlmgii wliidli led
to tlio dotuiitiou oC llu> NliipN, mid tlinir Nulm(U|n(Mil
nlmiidoiMumt. 'riioiigli I <<iitortniiiod tlicMi, iin I do
now, hnt o!i(< opinion on tli(< ;i4iil)j(<rt, ( rim only ndopt
llit< lungung*! of griititndii towmdH tlioHo iiiiiongNt
wiuHii I wivH a rofn^'iro, tuid who w(ir« tlui riHtmiM ol'
iVHcning n» from Hturviition luid d»-ntli. I nIiu||,
ilioix'f(m\ nicn^iy ullndo to tlioHo prorocdingH in con-
JU'ctiivn witli onr own rrow, mid in clncidiition of tlio
cvonts wliicli HuUsiupiently IaM uh, on our lionujwurd
jotirnoy.

On nrriving at Molvillo hlmid, wo lidurd tliiit
Li('ut(Mmnt ('ivsswoll and Mr. Wynniiitt litid pro-
C(k'di'd iiH volnntrors in compmiy with u party of
invalids in May, to tho ' North Star,' at Wwdwy
Isiaiul, in tlio liopo of an oarly opportunity occiurriiig
to forward th(Mn on to Knglmid that Hvmo]}. Thiit
opporttuiity did orcuir, and thi^so otlicdrN ..rrivcd in
Knglmid in October, 1853, in II.M.H. • rha;nix,'
witli tho first intolhgiinco of onr Discovery of the
Nortli-vvcst Passage, and of onr saltty.

Wo improved rapidly in luMilth and strength, tho
change coidd be daily obaervcd.. as we gradually lost
the haggard, care-worn expnsaion of fornuir ilays, for
one of companitive cheerfulness and health. Wc
were then anxious to miike ourselves useful-— ji life of
inactivity, being but ill-suited to the hurdy ' Investi-

tniNTlNU.

r»85

KH'orn . „„,| „H it, wnn 1,1,,,, f,|,„ |M,i«|,t, „f jj,, ,,„„e.

'•yHl«moHUM linu.ril.at whirl. w« w.,r. <,onH,,,,.L

Wo w.,n, ,u!(:„nli„Kly «llH|mM,ml with h f(,w ,„on iri
'l'» •"•m.t .lin«,l,i<„,H. huvii.K It l«nt u„,| ,.n,viHio„H. U,v
;"Kht „r Urn chiyH at ,i t,i,„„; nui\ wont v,,ry «„a;i,MHr„l
'" "•"• '^po.l I „„,t with many ,„,i,h.nt,H m„| mlv.rr,-
^"••«'H. to., muwrnm lor ,„(,„tio„ h«r.. ()„ „„« «f
;,"•"' "''"'"♦'"'"'• •'i""l.„u„t Pi.n H.,.l n,yH.,ll' nhot in
hn nu.rH. of a wock. o,,., Mu„k Ox. ,ii„. IUMtt.
t;'i. llun,N, oiKhl,..,,, M,,,nt (UvM., t.hi.l.,.,, |)„.kH, and
Hixt.«,„ »'tHnMiKai.^~.«vi.h5n(;o of the, hirgo a,r,o.,„t of
K"rnn to l.(, 1,1,^; with oi. Molvill., lHh,i„|. |t ,„ay 1^-
tnk.,,, UM an av.ragn of what wan ohtain.-d Im othm-
P'lrtKiN. Hcv.-ral W(,-„ in lomhti,!H wh.,Tc i„Hk v^xcu
"'""'"•'"<'. '"•<» l<'vv |{cn„(h..r; ,„any ,.f th. for/„.r
wmv ronH<.,,„.„tly Hhol. Hy the ..aloun cx.,lio,.„ of
•'•' """•<"•« und ,„.„ of both :,h.,,H. .ipwanlH of
^^m Ihs of fr(,Hh „.(,at wen, ohUuncd ; the iHHi.o of
whi<!l, ,it proper ir,torvHlH. hud a ...ont H«h,tary etrcot

Wu coi,ti.,«,uI to watd, the stat^ of the ice with
ir.te„Ho unxi(,ty, us wo felt (,,utc certain our days of
HnpriHoninent in it were drawing to a cIohc, and that
W(! Hhonid reach I-:nglu„d in 185;J. The thaw eon-
tinned to progrcHH very satiBfaetoriiy ; it wfi« oot
l>owev(!r. until the n.ot-nir.g of the 1 8th of August'
<l'»ring the prevalence of a north-w.^nt gale, that thj

i* »

:■!

586

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

ice was set off-shore, wliich gradually broke up around
us, and towards the close of the day, the ships were
under sail in a fine expanse of open water. Wc
continued working along the pack edge at times,
occasionally secured to the floe ice off Point Griffiths,
until the 10th, when the ships were beset in young
ice, off Byam Martin Island, in latitude 74° 49' 85" N.,
longitude, 105° 42' W. We continued drifting until
early in November, the ships becoming finally fixed
about twenty-eight miLs to the south-west of Cape
Cockburn, in latitude 70° 41', longitude 101° 22' W.,
which were our winter quarters during 1853-54.

It is needless for me to say what was the extreme
bitterness of our disappointment after the sanguine
hopes we had so reasonably indulged in; but the
• Investigator's' bore themselves worthily, under their
misfortunes. There was one, however, on whom it
exercised a different effect (Mr. Sainsbury) he, poor
fellow, long sustained by the hope of reaching England
at the close of the season, when fully aware that we
were doomed to spend another winter in the ice,
drooped in spirits, his disease made rapid progress,
and on the 14th, to our great regret, he was released
from his long suffering. He had rallied considerably
in July and August, and had we then got to England,
his life would, in all human probability, have been
prolonged for a little time, but the seeds of his disease
(Consumption) were too deeply seated to be eradicated,
or to afford any hope of permanent recovery. On

A FUNERAL.

587

the ICth, we bore him to liis cold and watery grave-
part of the impressive service of our clmrch was read
on board the 'Resolute' by Captain Kellett, when
tiie body wrapped in canvass as

"No useless coffin enclosed his breast,"

was placed on a sledge, covered with the Union Jttck
over which the ensign floated half mast high. This was
drawn by six petty officers of the ' Investigator', and
followed by all the officers and men of both ships
to a smooth piece of ice about 200 yards distant,
where a square hole was cut down to the icy sea
to receive him. The sledge was drawn up alongside
when the remainder of the burial service was read
All grouped around, gazing in melancholy silence on
the touchmg scene before us; and when the words
v/cre pronounced 'we, therefore, commit his body to
the deep,' it glided slowly from the sledge, and was
Silently engulphed in the watery grave beneath the ic-,
on which we stood. The bleak and dreary character
ot the day was quite in keeping with the occasion-a
cold, biting north-west wind, and a temperature of 57°
below freezing point, added in no small degree to its
solemnity and gloom.

This, our fourth winter in the ice, was passed
much in the same way as all the others had been •
but our great distance from the nearest land being
twenty-eight miles, we were unable to make it in any

588

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Way available for recreation or hunting ; we conse-
quently participated in a full degree in all the dreari-
ness and sohtude inseparable froui wintering in the
pack. As our numbers rendered us a heavy tax on
the resources of the ships, there was a reduction
made in the allowance of provisions at the beginning
of winter; but we thought little of it, when compared
with our privations of former days.

With the advent of 1854, we commenced our
fifth year of Arctic service. The winter, up to this
period, had been one of intense cold, but less so than
that of the previous year in the Bay of Mercy, and
we were likewise in a much better condition for re-
sisting its effects. Captain Kellett determined, with
a view of husbanding the resources of his own ship,
to detach the ' Investigators' early in the spring to
H.M.S. 'North Star,' at Beechey Island, where a
large depot of provisions was formed; we were
thus destined for another march over the ice. Early
in April, we received orders for travelling in three
divisions: the first, consisting of two sledges and
twenty men, with Lieutenant Haswell and Mr. Paine,
were dispatched on the 10th; the second, with
Lieutenant Pirn and myself, with the same number
of men, and a few invalids from the ships, were
sent on the 11th; the third, with Captain M'^Clure
and the remainder of our officers and men, followed
us two days subsequently.
Oui' three parties were thus within a day's march

OUR SECOND JOURNEY.

569

SO that we were able to afford mutual assis-
tance, if necessary, by waiting for or advancing on
each other. Our journey was a severe and tiying
one, as Arctic travelling at that season of the year
ever is. from the lowneas of the temperature. On the
morning of our departure, it was 35 below zero, and
alternated several degrees above and below that
during the journey, the details of which it is not my
intention at present to narrate. Our route lay over
the ice, between Garrett Island and the coast of
Bathurst and Comwalli .nd, some of which was
heavy and packed, but t. . . of it was of the previous
years formation, evidencing that a large body of
open water existed along the coast at the close of
the season. We had several adventures with Bears
and Wolves, and one of the former was killed
Our men held out well: a few of the weaker
suffered occasionally from exhaustion- one poor fel-
low, whose intellect had been long affected, was
then m a state of complete imbecility, and a source of
much trouble and anxiety, he was, on one occasion
nearly becoming the prey of a hungry Bear, but was
fortunately rescued.

The cold was intense : our garments were always
frozen after a march-stockings and moccasins ad-
henng so firmly to each other, from the condensation
of vapour, that we were often obliged to cut them
off our feet, which might be said to be encased in ice •
reqmnng us to keep in constant motion to prevent

590

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE,

being frost-bitten. The mits were in the same con-
dition, together with other portions of our dress ; the
only means for thawing which, was by taking them
into our blanket bags when we went to rest, and
imparting to them the warmth of our own bodies.
The consequence was, that the product of the thaw,
(water), froze on our bags, which ultimately became
hard and stiff from the accumulation of ice. Every-
thing was either half-thawed, frozen, or covered with
hoar-frost, not excepting eyelids, beard, and face,
with frost-bites constantly occurring, from the exposure
of the hands in the manipulation necessary for putting
on one's garments, or taking them off. We were
frequently frost-bitten when asleep, or when in the act of
dispatching our hasty meal, while sitting up in the tent,
enveloped in our blankets. Such are a few of thJ
incidents of Arctic travelling, in the performance of
which no service more thoroughly tests man's powers
of endurance, both morally and physically. No
fluid is so acceptable to a wearied traveller in
the North as tea; after a day's journey, its effects
are peculiarly refreshing and exhilarating. Cocoa,
from its being more nutritious and sustaining, is well
adapted for the morning meal, and, with some frozen
bacon, generally constitutes the breakfast; the re-
mainder of the day's allowance of food is taken at
the end of the march.

On the 24th of April, we reached the 'North
Star,' where we found the first division had arrived

BEECHY ISLAND.

501

the day before; and Captain M<>C]urc followed on the
■ ;^7th so that we were once more assembled together
in the same ship. The effects of the journey had
been more or less felt by us all, but we were re-
cruited by a few days' rest. During our sojourn at
Beechey Island, we lost one of our men, Thomas
Morgan, who, after a very prolonged illness, died from
the effects of his previous sufferings in the ' Inves-
tigator.' He was a most excellent man, and his loss
was much and universally deplored. It was the fifth
and last death that occurred.

We remained at Beechey Island-celebrated as the
first winter quarters of Sir John Franklin's Expedi-
tion—and resorted to various expedients to kill time
dunng this long period of uninterrupted daylight
Excursions to the neighbom-ing lands, sauntering over
the island, ever in search of the slightest trace of the
missing Expedition, and shooting Dorekies (Uria
Grylle), which were very numerous in the ice-cracks
constituted the principal occupations of the summer'
In the mean time, Sir Edward Belcher, the Senior
Officer of the Expedition, ordered the abandonment
of the 'Resolute' and 'Intrepid/ and the officers
and crews of those ships joined us on the 28th of
May. Captain Kellett had, at an early period of the
sprmg, detached two parties from the 'Resolute:'
one to explore the Strait of Prince of Wales, in the
hope of obtaining some intelligence of Captain Col-

'Hril

592

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

linson in the * Enterprize ;' the other proceeded to
the ' Investigator,' in the Bay of Mercy, where she
was still found. On the 12th of July, they arrived
on board the * North Star.'

By the former, we received intelligence of our
Consort, and from the course which Captain Collinson
intended to pursue by the records he left at Princess
Royal Islands, we felt but httle apprehension for his
ultimate safety, as his line of retreat along the coast
of America, was open to him every summer j and
failing his ability to extricate his ship, his resources
would have enabled him to reach some of the Hudson's
Bay Company's trading posts. Mr. Krabbe (Master of
the * Intrepid') was the officer selected to go to the Bay
of Mercy ; from whose report* I extract the following
particulars of the state in which he found the
'Investigator,' twelve months after we abandoned
her.

" The tattered remains of the ensign and pendant
were still flying, and an accumulation of drift on the
northern side of the ship, sufficient to enable me to
walk in over her gunwale ; there was a good deal on
her decks, but not to prevent our easily getting at the
fore-hatchway. The ships head was N. 30 W. true,
her cable hanging slack under her bow. She was
heeled about 10° to starboard and slightly by the

* Fide Parliamentary "Blue Book" on Polar Expeditions,
1855.

A VISIT TO THE 'INVESTIGATOR.' 593

head. There were no signs of pressure about her,
although the oakum was hanging very loosely out of
most of the seams. She was S. 12 E. 1400 yards
trom the cairn, and 426 yards from the nearest point
ot beach, her stem being in eleven fathoms of water.
On gomg below, I found all things in good order, and
the lower deck pretty free from frost ; but overhead, on
orlop decks, there were great accumulations. On
exammmg the holds, I found she had leaked during
the precedmg summer, so much that she was now
fuU to the orlop beams forward, and within ten inches
of them abaft, with soUd ice." Speaking of the state
ot the ice, this officer again says. " Both on entering
and leaving the bay, I paid mai-ked attention to the
state of the ice in it, and am confident that there was
no water made inside a line from Point Providence to
Point Back during 1853, but there was open water
during that season along the whole line, and which
finaUy met and arrested pieces from the pack around
the neighbourhood of Cape Hamilton."

The inferences to be deduced from this report are
that the 'Investigator' moved a Httle in the summer of
1853 ; that the ice never broke up in the Bay, and
that we consequently should have failed to liberate
her had we remained ; and that she will, from the ac-
cumulation of ice and water, ultimately sink at her
anchors, and find repose at, or near where we left
her. We had, therefore, every reason to congratulate
ourselves that we abandoned her at the period we did.

594

THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.

Towards the middle of August, the ' North Star' was
Uberated from her winter quarters, and we remained
at the floe edge, pending the orders of Sir Edward
Belcher, and in hourly expectation of the arrival of a
ship from England. In the meantime, Sir Edward
determined to abandon his own ship 'Assistance,'
and her tender ' Pioneer,' and on the 26th, the crews of
H.M. Ships 'Investigator,' 'Resolute,' 'intrepid,'
Assistance and 'Pioneer,' were collected on board the
' North Star,' and we cast off from the floe on our home-
ward voyage. We had scarcely done so, when the
outline of a ship could be faintly observed through the
haze, and we soon hailed with emotion the arrival of
H.M. Ships ' Phoenix ' and ' Talbot ' from England.
We received by them the first letters we had had for
a period of neai'ly five years, which brought joy to
some, and deep mourning to others. The crews of
the abandoned ships were distributed between the
vessels— the ' Investigator's ' remained on board the
' North Star,' and we immediately proceeded on our
course. After touching at Navy Board inlet, in
Lancaster Sound, and at Lievly, on the coast of Green-
land, we landed off Ramsgate on the 6th of
October, 1854, after an absence of four years and
ten months.

A few days subsequently, Captain M'Clure, the
ofiicers and crew, were tried by Court-Martial on
board H.M.S. ' Waterloo,' at Sheerness, for the
abandonment of the ship ; and after due investi-

AERIVAL IN ENGLAND.— CONCLUSION. 596

gation were honourably acquitted. The President
of the Court, on the termination of the trial, was
pleased to pass a high encomium on our conduct ; no
less for the hardships and privations we had under-
gone, than for the good service we had done our
country, by the important Discoveiy we had made—
The North-West Passage.

QQ2

APPENDIX.

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APPENDIX.

601

List of Game shot by the Officers and Crew of H. M.S. 'Invests
gator: in the Bay of Mercy, from October, 1851, to April, 1853.

Monthg,

1851.
October . .
November .
December .

1852.
January . .
Febrttary .
March . . .
April . . ,
May ....
June ....
Jdly ....
August. . . ,
September ,

OCTGJER . . ,

November. ,
December . ,

1853.
January . . .
February . .
March . . . .
April . . , .

Mnsk-
Oxen.

CO
CM

Tf4

en
bo

.a
.'§'

*->

.g
•*»

Deer.

Weight
of Meat,

Total

2
1

12
10

lbs.

852

205
433
861
1155
605
519

Hares.

Ptarmi-
gan.

197 U

205

557

112

706
486
180

9
3
3

6
9

7852

167

42
2
2

13
15
10
14
99
36
40
31
19
11
16
9

10
10

Wild.
I'owl.

Seals.

109

388 199

l>
Si
»

2
1

ss
>s
ss

Ksh.

Average
weight of
Reindeer

lbs.
95
»
i»

102
72
66
66
60i
65
66

102i
75
93

In addition to the above, the following were shot in the
Prince of Wales Strait :
27 Hares.
249 Ptarmigan.
50 Wild-fowl (Ducks and Geese).

4 Bears.

5 Musk-Oxen (1269 lbs. of meat).

No regular account was kept of the Foxes that were shot
or captured, which may have amounted to 50, and the
number of wild-fowl is estimated at a low average.

602

APPENDIX.

The following is a List of the Birds and Animals met with
in the Polar Sea during the Voyage, and of which
specimens were obtained.

MAMMALIA.

Trichecus Rosmarus, Baloena Mysticetus, Beluga Borealis,
Monadon Monoceros, Ursu8 Maritimus, Phoca Vitulina,
Bos Moschatus, Cervus Tarandus, Canis Lagopus, Canis
Greenlandicus, Canis Argentatus, Lepus Glacialis, Mus
Hudsonias, Canis Lupus, Mustek Erminea.

AVE8.

Colymbus Glacialis, Colymbus Arcticus, Colymbus Sep-
tentrionalis, Grus Canadensis, Anas Bernicla, Anser Hyper-
boreus. Anas Molissima, Anas Spectabilis, Anas Caudacuta,
Anas Glacialis, Larus Glaucus, Larus Argentatus, Larus
Tridactylus, Lestris Parasiticus, Sterna Arctica, Tetrao
Lagopus, Tetrao Ttupestris, Tetrao Saliceti, Strix Nyctea,
Procellaria Glaciilis, Cervus Corax, PringilJa, Eraberiza
Nivalis, Caprimulgus Americanus, Hierofalco Candicans,
Charadrius Pluvialis, Charadrius Hiaticula, Phalaropus
Platyrynchos, Tringa Maritima, Calidris Arenaria, Strepsilas
CoUaris.

PISCES.

Salmo, Blennius Polaris, Cottus Quadricornis, Cottus
Polaris.

INSECTA.

Mosquito (Culex Reptans), two species of Caterpillars
(Lepidoptera), genus Bombyx, and two of the Diptera were
obtained; the species in either was not determined.

APPENDIX.

608

INVERTEBRATA.

Dianoea Glacialis, Cyanea Arctica, Asterias Polaris, Gum-
marus Lorictaus, Gammarus Boreus, NaisCiliata, Nytnphum
Grossipes. Nymphum Hirsutus, Alpheus Aculeatus, Alpheus
Polaris, Clio Borealis, Limacina Arctica, Gammarus Lorietaus.

I have to regret that all the specimens of the foregoing
birds aiid animals, were left on board the 'Investigator'
when It became necessary to abandon her. The prepara-
tions, included the skins, skeletons, and such of the viscera
as I considered worthy of preservation A few specimens of
the crustaceous and acephalous animals, not included in the
above list, I had reserved for more accurate examination
than It lay in my power then to bestow on them.

I may remark, that in the Western Islands (Baring and
Melville), where the soil is arenaceous, animal life is more
abundant than elsewhere j this gradually decreased as we
proceeded to the eastward, where the limestone formation
generally prevailed. But the greater number of Bears,
Seals, Walruses, and Sea-fowl met with-although these are
more difficult to procure than Musk-Oxen or Reindeer-by
their great size afford sufficient compensation ; the carbona*
ceous element of the food (fat), the great supporter of
respiration and life, being so largely supplied.

604

APPENDIX.

The following is a List of the Plants collected by the late
Robert Anderson, Esq., Surgeon of H.M.S. 'Enterprise;
presented to the Royal Gardens at Kew, examined by Dr.
J. D. Hooker, F.R.S., and described by him in the
"Journal of the Proceedings of the Linnmn Society for
November, 1856."

FROM THE COA&X OF NORTH AMERICA.

Seuecio aureus, Arteraesia Vulgaris, var. Silesii, Leu-
carthemum Arcticum, Arbutus alpina, Androsace chamce-
jasme, Salix Polaris, Triticum repens, var. purpureum, Poa
laxa, Dupontia Fischeri, Calamagros^is stricta, Festuca
brevifolia.

FROM BARING ISLAND, OE BANKS LAND.

Ranunculus nivalis, Papaver nudicaule L. (abundant),
Cardamine digitala, Draba alpina glacialis et algida, Draba
incana, Draba rupestris, Cochlearia Anglica, Stellaria Ion-
gipes, Lupinus perennis, Dryas integrifolia, Potentilla nana,
Saxifraga ilagellaris, Saxifraga cosspitosa, Saxifraga oppositi-

folia, Erigeron , Polemonium coeruleum. Primula Horne-

manniana. Phlox Richardeonii, Oxyria reniformis, Salix
myrtilloides, Salix speciosa, Catabrosa aquatic^ Carex
rigida.

FROM PRINCE ALBERt's LAND.

Anemone Richardsonii, Caltha Arctica, Hesperis Harkeri,
Vesicaria Arctica, Platypetalum purpurascens, Entrema
Edwardsii, Linum perenne, Hedysarum boreale, Oxytropis
nigresccns, Epilobium latifolium, Epilobium alpimim, Hip-

APPENDIX.

605

puris Vulgaris, Saxifraga Hirculus, Saxifraga aizoides, Saxi-
fraga hieraciifolia, Chysospleniuin alteruifolium, Aiteinesia
borealis, Leucanthemum integrifolium, Campanula linifolia.
Vaccinium religinosum, Androsace Septentrionalis, Pedicu-
laris capitata, Pedicularis Sudetica, Armeria Avctica, Salix
myrsiuites, Salix Richardsonii, Salix desertorum, Salix
reticulata, Glyceria Arctica, Deschampsia ccespitosa, Hiero-
chloe pauciflora, Calamagrostis purpurascens, Calpadium
latifolium, Eriophorum vaginatum, Carex scirpoidea, Carex
incurva, Carex stans, Carex compacta, Carex vaginata, Carex
fuliginosa, Carex ustulata, Elyna spicata, Cystopteris
fragilis.

FOUND ON BOTH BAEING ISLAND AND PRINCE ALBERt's

LAND.

Ranunculus affinis, Draba hirta, Silene acaulis. Lychnis
apetala, Honekeneya peploides, Cerastium alpinum, Hedy-
sarum McKenzii, Phaca aboriginorura, Oxytropis Campes-
tris, Oxytropis Uralensis, var. Arctica, Potentilla ninca,
Taxifraga tricuspidata, Saxifraga nivalis, Saxifraga cernua,
Saraxacum dens-leonis, Senecio frigidus, Senecio palustris,
var. Congestus, Arnica Angustifolia, Erigeron uniflorum,
Nardosmia corymbosa, Cassiopea tetragona, Castilleja pal-
lida, Pedicularis hirsuta, Polygonum viviparum, Elymus
arenarius, Alopicurus alpinus, Eriophorum capitatum, Erio-
phorum polystachum, Equisotum arvense.

606

APPENDIX.

A Description of the Manner in which BM.S. ' Investi-
gator* was strengthened for Service in the Ardic
Regions, by fVm. M. Rice, Esq., Master B/.ipwrighi cf
Woolwich Dockyard, on whose Plan and under whose
Superintendence the Work was done.

The 'Investi,v,ator/ of 4?/? tons, fitted at Messrs. Green's
Yard, Blackwall, April, 18i.?^ for Arctic Service, was forti-
fied externally by solid chotk cJ.snnels, and ice-stages,
extending from the hawse ho;cv. ;is to the quarters; the
side is doubled with 7 in. teak plank under the channels,
increasing to 8 in. at the wale, which is 3 feet broad ;
from thence 4 strakes of teak, diminishing in thickness
froi,-, 8 in. to 5^ iu., 7 strakes of English oak from
^ iu: to 4 in. ; and at the turn of the bilge, 4 strakes
of from 4 in. to 5 in. Canada ehn ; 7 strakes of English
oak from 5 in. to 3 in., and the remainder of the bottom,
to the keel, i^ cf 3 in. Canada elm.

The quarter galleries are removed, and the stern and
quarter pieces strongly united; all rails and projections
being carefully avoided.

The knee of the head being removed, the bow is fortified,
and terminated by ice-chocks, over which are fastened gal-
vanized iron plates S-16ths of an inch thick. An iron
rubbing-plate is also fitfed to the front of the ice-stage and
channels.

Within-board, the spaces between the bands at the floor-
heads, &c., are filled in, and the entire surface being
caulked, two thicknesses of 1^ in. African boards are
worked diagonf,lly, at right-angles %o each other, from the

APPENDIX.

607

timbers to the lower-deck shelf; the seams of each layer
being caalked, and felt laid between the surfaces.

Ten pairs of iron diagonal riders are worked in the hold
and ten pairs of diagonal plates on the sides of the vessel
between decks.

The bows and stern are fortified internally by wood
sleepers, breastworks, and iron crutches; great attention
has ai.o been paid in the arrangement of diagonal castings
radiating square to the bows, under the beams of each deck'
terminating at the shelf-pieces and hooks, to meet as effec'
tively as possible the pressure of ice.

Between the upper and lower decks, and also between
the lower a;id orlop decks, as well as in the hold, where
tie-beams have been introduced, thick shelf-pieces are
worked, terminating under the transom abaft, and meeting
at the middle line forward.

Filling chocks have been fitted in the after part, with a
second transom kneed to the sternpost and ship's side,
double-planked, within and without-board, thus affording
great strength to the stern to meet the shocks to which the
counter may be subjected.

The thwartship bulkheads of the fore, main, and after
holds, are wrought diagonally of two thicknesses of 1^ in.
English oak plank, at right-angles to each other, the upper
ends rabbetting into the lower-deck beams, and the lower
ends into 4 in. plank wrought upon the doubling; the
bulkheads are caulked on both sides, and rendered water-
tight; the wing bulkheads are similarly wrought. The
limber-boards are caulked down, and doubled over with fore
and aft planks, which serve to receive the diagonal ceiling.

Penstocks are introduced on each side of the keelson,
through each bulkhead, allowing a free water-course, when

608

APPENDIX.

required, from one water-tight compartment to another,
leading to the well.

The fore hold is provided with two common iron pumps,
to work on the weather-deck, and the well is furnished with
four of Massey's excellent pumps.

The pillars between decks, and in the hold, are tied
together by means of screw-bolts and tee-plates, the lower
ends being well secured to cross-chocks bolted to the floors ;
experience has proved the need of security against the decks
rising ; and thus, when under extreme pressure in the ice,
to prevent the ship's sides being forced in.

The upper-deck is doubled with Sin. fir plank, laid
diagonally between the water-way and binding-strakes amid-
ships, having felt, saturated in hot tallow, laid between the
two surfaces.

The ship's sides, between decks, are entirely covered with
felt, upon which a covering of | in. fir board is brought on.

The vessel is provided with Preston's Patent Ventilating
Illuminators, let into the deck over the cabins and mess-
tables; Phillip's Power Capstan; Windlass with purchase
ends; Sylvester's Warming Apparatus; Bowser's Fire-
hearth, with Snow-tank for supply of fresh water; to which,
also, has been adapted a mode of ventilation.

APPENDIX.

609

Description of the Warming Apparatus erected on board
H.M.S. 'Investigator.'

The ships composing the several Arctic Expeditious which
have been despatched by the Government, have been pro-
vided with an efficient apparatus for warming them. The
arrangements for this purpose combine a general system of
ventilation, by which the air of every part of the vessel is
regularly warmed.

The apparatus consists of a stove or cockle in which the
fresh air is warmed ; of an arrangement of tubes for con-
veying the warmed air to the officers' berths, the Captain's
cabin, and the fore part of the ship j of a smoke-pipe which
diffuses its heat between decks; and of a ventilating funnel
which carries off the smoke and vitiated air.

The cockle is fixed in the hold close to the main hatch-
way, upon a prepared floor of planking laid upon the kelson,
and covered with copper. Beneath the planking, and be-
tween it and the inside ceiling of the bottom of the ship, is a
hollow chamber, into which the fresh air descends by the
main hatchway. In the vessels recently fitted out, a large
iron pipe has been provided, which establishes a communi-
cation between the fresh air chamber under the stove and
the external air. This pipe acts upon the principle of the
wind-sail, being provided at its upper extremity with a cowl,
the mouth of which is always kept towards the wind by
means of a vane attached to it. Holes are cut in the
planking under the cockle for the ascent of the fresh air, to
replace that which has been warmed.
The cockle is of cast-iron, about three feet square, and

R R

610

APPENDIX.

consists of two pyramidical frnstritpi«i pka<^ one within the
other, and resting upon a caat-imu ibunJation plate, the
largest end of each frustrum htiing m the top, and the outer
one supporting a pyramid v/bv u covers in the whole. The
inner case contains the firetplace, which is lined at the sides
with fire-tiles, and the fire is fed with fuel by a door whi'-h
opens through the outer case. By this cot,/. action, no
part of the surfaces by which the air is warmed are in
contact with the buraing fuel, and the frequent cause of
contamination in hot air stoves, from a portion of the plates
becoming over-heated, is avoided. The rays of heat from
the fire strike u,>in the under side of the covering pyramid,
while the smoke passes ofl' at each side over the upper edge
of the inner frustrum, and descends at the sides and back
through the space between the two cases, which is about
three inches at the top, and eight inches at the bottom.
The smoke escapes from the bottom of the case into a
horizontal flue of cast-iron bolted to the under side of the
foundation plate. The sides of the outer case and the pyra-
midal top are corrugated externally, for the purpose of
increasing the surface in contact with the air, in order that
the metal may part with its heat so rapidiy, that the plates
cannot obtain such a temperature as would rend the air
warmed by them unwholesome.

The cockle is enclosed within a square jacket of plate-
iron, which rests at the bottom vyo\: the plankinc of the
fresh air chamber. The upper edge of the jacket supports
four triangular cast-iron plates, which converge to a ixjiat a
few inches above the pyramidal top of the ockle thus
forming another pyramid above the cockle. .es lates
are perforated with holes, from which sheet-ii n tuui* de-
scend to within an inch of the top of the cockle. The

APPENDIX.

611

object of this .arrangement is, firstly, to prevent any veins of
air escaping unwarmed, as would be the case if the upper
part of .. jacket were quite open to the chamber above it :
and secondly, to cause the current of air to impinge forcibly
upon the heated metal, with the view of abstracting its
heat more rapidly. The tubes are 2 inches in diameter,
and 108 m number.

The air, as it ascends from the fresh air chamber beneath
the cockle, comes first in contact with the bottom flue, from
which It receives its first portion of heat. Then." it passes
up by the space betw. n the outer case of the .ockle and
the enclosing jacket into the tube chamber, from which it
escapes by the tubes into warm air chamber above the
apparatus. The ang^e which the tube-plates make with
their base is much smaller than that . the top of the
cockle, so th.; the section of the tube chamber shows a
contmually deoroasing «rep %m its side towards the apex,
ihis rangement provide , a space for the passage of the air
betweea each row of ubes equal to the area of all the tubes
bejond. The col' cuve ai. 'vay of the tubes is 2.3562 feet
and the velocity with whi. e au pa es through the tubes
being found to average about (i ft per second, the quantity
of fresh warmed a supplied to the ship may be estimated
at a' out 800 abic feet per minute. At this rate, if the
cubic contents of the inhabited portion of . vessel be
taken at 24,000 -eet, the whole air of the ship would be
reii ved twice in one hour.

' e air chai. ber over the cockle is of the capacity of
abou a cubic yard, and from the upper part of it t. o cali-
ducf branch off to the sides of the ship. Thes. uliducts
as well as the enclosure of the war, ..ir chan.ber, are formed
of sheet-iron, put together in double thickness, with about

J{ R 2

012

APPBNDIX.

an inch of air-space between the two envelopes, for tlic
purpose of preventing the loss of heat by the warmed air in
its passage through them.

At the sides of the ship the en' lucts rise through the
lower deck, and are connected to horizontal tubes of light
sheet-iron, which extend themselves lore and aft along the
ship's side, passing through all the oflicers' stntc-rooujs, and
terminating at one end i'l the after-cabin, and at the otluT
end in the open part of the ship forward, "here the v.w.n
mess. In its passage through the oillcers' state-rooms, the
warm*air tube passes between the ship's side, and the
standing bed-place, or berth. The space enclosed between
the berths and the ship's side is open below to the general
air of the cabin, and at top is covered with perforated zinc,
through which the warm air asnnds. These tubes, which
are of large dimensions, are perforated with numerous small
holes, which increase in number as the distance from the
warming apparatus becomes greater, The ends of the hot-
air tubes in the after-cabin are fitted with hinged valves^
adjustable by means of a quadrant rack, for the purpose of
regulating the admission of warmed air ; in the fore part of
the ship, the ends of the tubes are perforated with holes.

The causes that give motion to the warmed air, and ensure
its distribution equally throughout the ship, are —

Ist. Its own diminished specific gravity as compared with
the colder air of the external atmosphere, which, passing in
through the openings at the base of the cockle, displaces the
body of air within the apparatus which has been heated by
contact with the metal, and drives it forward through the
tubes provided for its conveyance to the various parts of the
ship.

2nd. The influence exerted upon the warm-air currents

APPENDIX.

013

by ho Uro. ,n the galley, and cabin ntovc, which draw» the
«'•• towanls rhe extreme end, of the vensel. It is necessary,
'"• th.H rcu«o„, that an uni„terr„,.t,.,l communication should
bo rnamt»,ned between the openings at the termination of
the honzontul tubes, an<l the general air of the ship. The
Htove u. ,1.0 cabin should have an open firp, with a good-
H./od Hmoke-funnel fro.n it into the open air.

The s„.oke-flue from the warming apparatus, which has

•>«« . <1.-Hcr.hed as taken off from the bottom of the stove, is

"m.le he .ncans of affording additional heat to the open

«I»^r between decks. A vertical smoke-flue of about one

t dmmeter .s carried up from the bottom of the cockle to

h under s.de of the upper or <'spar'> deck. This com-

" u ucat<. w.th an horizontal smokctube, of a flattened

oval form, and put together, like the ealiducts, with two

.ra oi pjates, and an intervening air-space. The

uv»I tube „ .uapended from the beam, of the upper deek

hatehwy,. Beauk, it. u,e in warming the ahip, thi, pipe
.ervc, . ,^eful purpose i„ drying the clothing of he me' in
wet weather The smoke-pipe terminates in'the ventilating
funnel near t he fore hat,,ur«y. '^

me ship being thns filled „i,h an abundant supply of
csh wanned a,r, the vitiated air i, extracted: firstly; by
mean, of the large „|«n fire in the cooking galley, „„ J
«,o„ndly by .ventilating chimney, or funnd.lbiL su
™„,d, the .m„kc.p,pe from the galley and cockle; and is
»rr,ednp to a considerable height, and termi.ating with a
...1, actmg ,n the ordinary mode, by its „,o„th being
averted from the wind. ^

In this apparatus, the cockle itself, with the whole of the
cahduets, and hot-hair tubes, are fixtures, but the smoke-

614

APPENDIX.

flues are moveable, and are usually taken down and stowed
away, when the apparatus is not in use, and set up again
when required.

The apparatus is constructed for burning coal, when that
can be obtained, but in the various Arctic Expeditions
" lignum vitse " has been extensively used as fuel.

S. Eqan Rossek, C.E.
6, Cannon Row, Westminster.

Copy of a Letter addressed to the Director-General of the
Medical Department of the Navy, on the Quality of the
Lemon- Juice furnished to the Expedition.

Sir,

Idelphi Hotel, Oct. 31st, 1854.

In compliance with your request, that I should report to
you, for the information of my Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, my opinion of the Lemon-juice supplied to
H.M.S. 'Investigator,' touching its quality and efficacy as
an antiscorbutic agent.

I have now the honour to inform you, that I carefully
tested the two different kinds of acid, on leaving England,
and at regular intervals subsequently throughout the entire
period of the commission, up to the time of the abandon-
ment of the ship j and accurately noted the results, that I
might be enabled to arrive at a just estimate of their
strength, and detect any deterioration they might subse-
quently undergo.

In the strength of acidity and power of neutralizing

APPENDIX.

C15

a^ka hes, I found both kinds far exceed in these properties
the Lemon-juice of commerce, or any that my professional
experience had hitherto made me acquainted with. Although
subjected to every possible vicissitude of temperature, from
the highest Equatorial heat to the intensity of Arctic cold,
1 was unable to detect the slightest change or deterioration
in their strength or properties.

To their great excellence as antiscorbutic ag.'ats, I can
with confidence bear the most ample testimony; for, unfor-
tunately, I was afforded an opportunity of but too fully
testing their efficacy when Scurvy and scorbutic debility
universally existed amongst us. To the great regularity
that was observed in the issue of these acids, and the positive
evidence which was afforded me, that every officer and man
drank their allowance, I attribute (as one of the principal
causes) much of the comparative good health and freedom
from Scurvy which, for a period of nearly the two first years
we enjoyed. J' "•»*

When Scurvy, at length, appeared so generally amongst us,
I found the Lemon-juice the most efficacious and speedy
agent, not only in arresting its progress, but in eradicating
the disease until the influence of those causes which on!
ginally produced it (coH and insufficient food) again re
estabhshed it. I had recourse to it in all the scorbutic"
cases, with the utmost confidence, from the tried excellence
of the acids : on it I placed the greatest reliance-it was my
unfailing hope, and as long as 1 could command a liberal
supply, I was never disappointed in the anticipated results

I may also be permitted to remark, that it was not until
%.me time after the supply of the acid for the use of the si^k
h^ . been much curtailed, in consequence of the diminished
resources of the ship (as I was informed), that the number

616

APPENDIX.

of our crew suffered any diminution by deaths after a period
of more than three years had elapsed. I am also enabled
to report favourably of it, as an external application to ulcers
or abrasions occurring in a scorbutic habit of body.

I am, however, almost unable to say which kind of acid I
could most strongly recommend as an antiscorbutic— the
excellent acid properties of both I found equally unimpaired,
and in their relative efficacy I could detect no difference :
but, as well as frequent observations enabled me to judge,
the boiled acid deposited a greater amount of its mucila-
ginous constituents than the unboiled, or that which was
prepared with spirit, and for this reason I think the anti-
scorbutic properties of the latter might remain longer unim-
paired, and consequently be considered the better prepara-
tion for general issue in Her Majesty's Navy.

I have the honour to remain.

Sir,

Your most obedient servant,

Alex. Akmstrong, M.I).,

Surgeon, Koyal Navy.
The Director-General,

Naval Medical Department.

THE KNU.

LONDON:

Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street.

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