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"*T'?: ^:i A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE DISCOVEEY OF THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE; WITH NUMKIIOUS TNCIDKNTS OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE BUIUNG KEARLY FIVE YEARs' COyTINlIOIiS SEHVICE IN THE ABCTIC KEQIONS WHILE iN SEARCH OP THE EXPEDITION UNDER Sill JOHN i'EANKLlN. '■4 r 1 BY ALEX. ARMSTRONG, M.D., R.N. FELIXIW OF THE ROYAL GEOGKAFIIICAL SOCIEl - LATE 81JKGE0H AND NATURALIST OF H.M.S. 'INVESTIGATOR. rUBUSHED WITH THE SANCTION OF THE IJOUDS COMMISSIONEUS OF THE ADMIRALTY. LONDON: IIUUST AND HLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN. 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1857. Thf right of Translation is rrvireff. ,. ■Jl!j%5^^£i'i'^'^>^'S*iT«iJ^***'S' P QtMi^. iS^o C7 'Vn[;;*1 }•*!■; l.lUlli?^ftK-*if. _ /^^ • LONDON ; • Printed IpiiilMhii— i fli i m. Pi TO I'lliLD MARSHAL HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, K.G. *c., &c., Ac. THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARK, . WITH ma ohacious permission ok HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS. MObT RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, IN ADMIRATION OF "IS DISTINGUISHED TALENTS AND VIRTUES, AND OF TUB POSTERING PATRONAGE UK HAS EVER EXTENDED TO SCIENCE, LITERATURE AND ART, AS WELL AS IN OIUTEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF MANY ACTS OF CONDESCENSION AND KINDNESS RECEIVED AT TUE HANDS OF HIS ROYAL IIIGHNESS, WHEN FOHMBHLY SERVING IN HER majesty's YACHT, * BT HIS ROYAL UIGHNESS'S MOST OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. r tt K F A C E. The delay which has arisen in the publication of this Narrative, has proceeded from circumstances over which I had no control. On my return, from Arctic Service, at the close of 1854, my health was so much shattered, that I was unable to undertake any literary labour. Early 111 the following year, as soon as it was recruited, the exigencies of the war in which this country was tlien engaged, called me again into active service. After taking part in the Baltic campaign, the ship to wliich I belonged was ordered to the West Indies, from whence I have but lately returned, and until very recently have been unable to devote any time to authorship. I still hope, however, that a faithful Personal Narrative of .the circumstances attending this memorable voyage, may not prove uninteresting. It possesses the advantage of having been compiled from a Journal in which I daily noted events precisely as they occurred, and now pubhsh at the request of my former shipmates. My principal object in writing this Work, has been to do justice to every one engaged in a voyage which. VI I'UKFAC'K. for its (Inmtion nntl privntions, is, I !)cHovc, un- pnnillcled in Maritime annals; and to place l)efon; the world an accurate account of deeds, which, for heroism, devotion, and endurance, liave never been surpassed ; feeling assured that all employed in this Expedition arc entitled to the admiration and the gnititude of their country. Agreeable as this duty has been to me, it has not been without its alloy. I have f-jlt that I could not, consistently with the imj)artial discharge of my duty as the; Historian of the North-West Passage, record some of the events, without giving them what I know to be both a just, and an honest criticism. That wt; conuuitted errors in our voyage, it is vain to deny ; and, unpleasant as it has been to me to point them out, I should consider myself unworthy the title I have assumed, had I shrunk from doing so. I trust, however, my remiirks will be received in the spirit which induced me. to make them, and that others may avoid the errors wc committed, shoidd they ever be engaged on a similar service. It has been stated that our Discovery of the Pas- sage was secondary to that of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, This, in the present state of o\ir know- ledge regarding the fate of that Expedition, 1 cannot admit. I should feel happy, not only to concede the point, but to announce it, in my reverence for the memory of such a brave and intrepid band, could I be convinced any prwf existed oi' PRErACK. vii their having reached the Coast of America in the summer of 1850. That they did reach this Coast, I . freely admit, and, assuming tliat they did so by Peel Sound— thereby establishing the existence of a Passage in that direction— there is no evidence which can pos- sibly be rehed on, that it mxs prior to the period of our Discovery, (October, lb50). In the absence of this proof, therefore, I must reserve for H.M.S. ' Investigator ' the priority of the (fiscovery. But shouhl the fact be ascertained to the contrary, I shall be the first to acknowledge it, with undying admiration for those who sacrificed their lives in its attainment. I have to regret that the department of Natural History, in connection with our voyage, is not so full or satisfactory as I could have wished, from the fact of my entire collection having been left in the ship, nmch to my regret, on her abandonment. I have, however, endeavoured to supply the deficiency, as far as lay in my power, from my notes. I am indebted to Dr. J D. Hooker, F.R.S., of Kew, for the information, liit he had described and published an account of the plants collected by my late friend, Robert Anderson, Esq., Surgeon of H.M.S. 'Enterprize,' (by whose death the Navy lost one of its ablest and most accomplished Medical, Officers). As these specimens were obtained on the same lands as my own, and as they are identical with them, I have placed a list of them in the Appendix. VIII niKKACK. To Will. M. Ui(v. Ks(|., ol" VV(X)lwicli DiM^kymd, I am gn;atly indebted lor Imving ol)li<,nn{T|y t'liriiished me with beaut ifully-executed drawings illustrative of the plan by whieli tlic • Investigator ' was streiigtli- eiied for the ice, and warmed by means of Sylvester's Heating Apparatus, together with two valuable Papers on the subject :— that on the Warming Apparatus was compiled by S. Kgan Itosser, Ksq., C.E. I regret, however, that the drawings came too late to be at present available. The Papers will be found in the Ap|)cndix. I beg to express my grateful acknowledgments to Sir James (Uark, JJart., IMiysician to Her Majesty the Queen, for the personal kindness and valuable advice and assistance I have received from him in connec- tion with this Work. From Dr. M'Cormick, R.N. I received a very in- tcrcsting account of the (ieology of Kerguelen's Land, and for which I beg to return my sincere thanks. To Alex. Carte, Ksfj., of the Royal Dublin Society, Captjiin Wjishington, Hydrogmpher of the Admiralty, John IJarrow, Ks.j., F.U.S., Richard King, Esq., M.l)., and other kind friends, my best thanks are due, for their handsome otters of jussistancc when preparing this Narrative for the Press. Luiidoii, Murch, |H.'>7, CONTENTS CFIAPTEII I. I).>pnrturc from Englan.l-Weathcr-First Disaster at Soa-Onr Crew -Heavy Oalc-Sh.p Lviaky-Hcsults-Part Company with our Consort-Change of Weather-Means adopt.-.! for dr/ins Ship- Cause of Lcakage-lksults of our llasiy Departure frL Wland -cZd^r'sT;? "'" ['•« T^rV'^emperat'ure of Air audXk, —Crowded btate and Results— Even mm in the TroDi(!s— Thn — Stomiy Petrel- 1 am and Incidents-Thunder-Porpoises— Bathmp-Strange Sail-Cross the Equator-Ships-Thd? Susni- -WeatC""AirT*'"''" jhe 'lWs-Te,nperate Zone-Suns^et -Weather-Albatross and other Birds-Character of Winds on either 8i.ie of Equator- Diseolouration of Water-South-west Gale -lucuients-South America-Moth, Flight and Capture-Chanuc ings—Hiids— Double Pay comnienc-cs— Lai.d-Cupe Viririns— Waiter Straits of Magellau-Guauaeos-Patagoniu Ll Terra del Fuego-Appcaranccs of J^ind-Meet H.M.S' Gorgon '-Another u'rr'"^n ■'' p'^'r%.*^' ' Enterprise '-Taken in Tow-Sight I vtv C"'f -I'-'H-onians-Fuegiau Coast-Ten.peraturc J..rt I-amine-Altered Aspect of Laud-Eortescuc Bay-Meet r Consort anil Incidents. . , "' j_29 our ClIAFrEK 11. Preparations for leaving the Strait-Medical Survey-Specimens ob- aintd-Departure-Aspect of the Land-Fuegian^Tlieir Ap. |.earanee &c -Enter tte Pacitic-Weather-Towinc-Part ooni- E.S 7f''^'T ' ^i'^^'Son '-Heavy Gale, driven to the Latitude of Cape H..rn-State of Ship-A Spar seeu-Damagc sustained-Disaster-Loss of Masts-Sdan overboard-Whales- r I """"'o*' „• """ Aeniperature ol Water- Loss of Bread from Leakage-Ketlectious on the Voyagc-Tropio Birds-Enter the S '7 "'^'w-^'f'%'^^'" "w»'^'-"«-i''-ogress-Cross the Equator Kam-lrade Wiuds-leniHiiature of Air aad Water-Sight of .iU.d-M„„a Koa, Us height, app.a.an.r, and ci.anicto,-Kt"-Iings on seeing it - Islands of Mowec and Morotoi— Appeatuncca— Bliu.) CONTKNTS. V — Ofthii— Hyiri},' Fish— Arrival of rilot-IiitelliRpncc of onr Con- sort— Anrlinr ill the Kojids — II.M.a. 'Swiff— Appearance and Character of Islami— Kntrnnce to Harbour— Prenurat ions for Sea — Honolulu, Govrmmeiit, *c. — Missionaries— Their Laws and Innuonce— Protectorate of Great Britain— Commerce— Supply and Demand for all Articles— Houses, Natives, Appearance, Dress, and tharacter— Laws existing— Incidents attcndjig Excursions— Cha- racter and Appearance of the Island— U'^eud of its Conquest— --Our Crew— Arrival of 'Cockatrice'— Letters and Despatches from hhgland— Conipiction of Work— Senior Officer's intentions — Jbffect protluccd— Climate of Islands. . . 31—60 CriAPTEU III. Departure from Honolulu— Completion (.f Stores and Provisions and facilities u(rur|led— Orders of Captain Collinsou— His intended Koute— \ aluable Intelligence received respecting the Winds- Adoption of It iiud Success which followed— Incidents and Events — hhter the Tempemle Zone— Progress and Soundings— Currents - Change of Temj)eraturc— Pass the Aleutian Islands, and enter tlic Kainlsehatka Sea--Sca Birds— First Seal seeii— Gore's Island Currents and Temperature— Difficulties of Navigation— Weather —King's Island— hvoundinp— Pass Lk-hring's Strait- Cross the Arctic Circle— Incidents— Whales— Temperature of Air and Water —Steer for Cape Lisburne— Issue Warm Clothing— Meet the Hover —Lnfavourablc Ileport of the Ice— Incidents— Crow's Nest- Capo Lisburne— Birds and Drift-wood— H.M.S. 'Herald' --Non-arrival of ' Kiiter|,rise '—Determination to cuter the Ice alone-Aspeet of the Cupe— ()bj,.cl of Visiting it— Signal from . ii^'""'' I > ." '■"•'^"''^ I'oaition of • Kiitcrprise'— Part company with llenU.l —Admiralty Oulers to keen Coiimauv- Proceed to the Nurlh—Keflect ions— Value of Two Ships in Polar N avigation— Ueather— Sunset. ... CI— SO CIIAITEU IV. Eater the Ice— Its Appeinince-Walruses— Progress and Incidents— —Currents— Temperature— Approach the Land -Meet 'Plover' —Esquimaux (Jrnves— Point Burrow rounded — Position and Ai.- |>earaiice of lee-Tides and Currents— Aspect of Ice— \n Icy Scene— Cruising in the Pack-Difficulties and Incidents- Kegain the Coast— Its Difficulties luid Dangers- Boats towing— Encoun- ters with the Ice— Heneetions— Ice and Water— diaracter of former— Sunset over lee— Point Drew— First Interview with Es- quiiiiaux-Their Visit to the Ship— Incidents— Barter— Women— Bo:its-Ineideiitsand Character of Esquimaux— Visits from severai Iribes— Aporoach Point Pitt — Unding— Deposit a Record— Alounds-Shij) gnninded— Difficulties of our position-Colville Kiver- Jones Islands- Visit to them-KMpiimaux— Interview- Incidents— Thieving, and Visit to the Ship Means mhipted for recording our Visit— Progress— Temperature of Air and Water. M— 112 CONTENTS. XI Gl— SO CHAPTER V. DiUiculties in working to the Norfh-East— Ship secured to Floc-Ice— Archery— Cast off from Floe— Progress iiml Incidents— An Island (hscovered— romt Anxiety— Critical Position— Our Difficulties- Shin on Shore— Means adopted in consequence — Results — Again under Sail and Incidents— Boat capsizes— Los«i of 33441bs. of Mf>at —Weather— An Ice Scene— The Pack— Our Position and State of the Ice— The Resolution adopted— Fail in effecting our Escape —A Thunder Storm— Rain and liesults— Endeavour to regain the Mainland— Towing— Incidents— The Ice— Its Difficulties— Opera- tions-Success attending tlieni— Ship secured to Ice— Appearance —An Ice Scene— The ^ew Island— Its Features and Character- — Inndents and Observations— A H- r Track— Whales' Skulls— Shij), her Appearance- Wcalhcr- ( off from Floe— The Ice— Its Aspect— Heflcctions— Incidents— I'rogress, Brighter Prospects and Better Results— Hopes of reachina: Banks' Land— Reflections -Appearance ot Ice-Open Y/ater-Course to the Northward arrcsted-Soundings-Position-Thc Pack -Alter Course-Wea- ther-Make the Land- lowing- Results of running into Pack- -hohtudc of our Position-Staud in for the Land-Tidal Linc- f W"'-"-— Alluvial Reposition and Results— Islands-Weather and DiHculties ol Navigation-' Plover's' Boats -Mackenzie Hiver — Remarks . , _ ij^o jty CHAPTER VI. Weal hor-Point Warrcii-Esr,uiinaux-Tlieir Encampnient-Appear- aiK-cof a Kur..p..au--L.iuliug on the Beach-A Grave-Ilustilo kccption h.y the N at ives-lucidcnts— Peace established-Tlie Vyornen-Sick Man ami lueideiUs- Aupeaianceof the Men— Their liul— (,oii>teriiation prmlueed by the St.ip- Rosults-Flight of the lribe-lnt.Teuur.-,e with the Iiulians- Fire Water- Discovery of a Button and Results- Report ed Murder of a European ami a larty on t lie Coast— Boats seen— Appearance of their Iluts- — llicir liit(>ri(ir — Pi-iwimiU l>.'.^.>;o: t .» -Their I nterior — Presents for the Shiii — Arrive on Boar — Provisions — Language — D<:j)artur( lil— Remain oif the Point— Reland- m -•••I- "•'•■-""/'"'""— "i;"Huu ou me roini— itelancl— -Nareii lor tiie Hut— Results— Construction of Huts— Incidents --•Return on Board— Progress— Observations Harrowby Bay- Lund ai, Point Maitland-Ueposit a Record— Incidents— ApiKar- aueeot Laud-^atives- Visit to the Shore and incidents attendiu-' It— Return to the Ship— Baillie Islands— Birds . 15S— IGU (CHAPTER VII. Weather— Revisit the Shore— lucidcuts— The Coast— Cape Bathurst— Kneaiiipmeiit— Liuid on liie Isthmus- Advance to hncampmcnt— hMpiimaiix— interview .ml Ineich'iits -Tluir Hostile Aspect— Altcied Demeauoui— Appearance of Men and W omen— incidents XII CONTENTS. Fire Water— l?ftrter—l)fspntclios—Nej,'(ttijaiou for their traiisiiiis- sion— IkHurn to tlui Jkwl— Proscnta to tlic Natives— A Gun— A Thief— Their Rude Behaviour— War Whoop— UiHicultv in chuir- _iiou( Aground— -Ksquiiimux Ka- I attendiiiif , - — •- V..C Eiicnmp- -Ucpjirture from Biullic's Islands— Visits from Esquimaux and Incidents— Their Account of other Expeditions— A Visit— Ex- pectation of a Ship w ith Presents— Their Departure from the Shin —Esquimaux, thcjr liabits, Manners, and Customs. 170—11)0 inp the Hoat— licavc the Shore — lioat ..e-v,......— .,cnmiiinn yaks— Their Wea|M)iis— Mode of using them— Incidents att( our Ilchim— Their Visit to the Ship— Invitation to the Er ment— Departure from Baillic's Islands— Visits from Esnu cHAFrEK vm. Departure from Cape Bathurst— Aurora Borealis— Ice— Currents- Franklin Bay— Rain— River Ilorton— Aspect of Land— A Bear- Refraction— Strange Ap|K;aranccs on Shore— Report of the Ice Mate— The Ice— A Boat dcsi)atchi'd to the Shore— Whales and Seals- Cause of Strange Appearances — Volcjioio Mounds — Wea- ther-Difficulties — Character of Coast— Incident on IJoard— The Evening— Ship Besets— Cajic Parry- Land discovered to the N.E. — Opinions — Position at Evening— Sunset — Aspect at Morning Possession of liand— Name Ixistowed- Its Character and Incidents — Ap|>cara«cc of llwidhmd and Coast — Birds seen — Progress Incidents— Siia|)c a Course to North-Fast— Weather— Difficulties —Sight of Laud— Ilo))cs and Coniectures— Currents— Tempera- ture — Discovery of Prince AllMirfs Land— Discoverv of Islands Ap|H-aranc« of Sea— Position— Weather — Siiip ik'set— Gloomy Evening— Occupation— Change of Prospects— Attempt to force a Passage and Failure— Position— Amusements— Altered Aspect of Ice— Secure to Ground Ice— Sudden Departure — Difficulties- lairds. ..... 200—228 ClIAFrER l.\. Young Ice— Its Formation — Our Position— Barrow's Strait— Opinions resjM'ctiiig the Exi.stcnce of a Passage— Drifting in the PacK— In- cidents and Dimgcrs— Etjuinootial Gales— Critical Position of the Ship— Increa-siiig Dangers— Preparations to meet Casualties — As- pect of ice-Pressurt."— Continue drifting — Arrangements for aban- doning Ship — Assault of the Ice — Hawsers and Life-buoy carried away— Abatement of the Gale— Cliangc of Weather— Temp<'rature —Position — Collisions — Ap|)roaeh Princess Royal I.-«lands— Cri- tical Position— t^cape— Conclusions arrived at -^ Last Day of Sc-p- teinher— Preparations for Wintering— I'arhdion and Parusellenu;- —Birds— FJirly Days of October and Occupation— Ice in Motion —Heavy Pressure— .Alteration in Appearance of Ice— Experiments with Gun|)owdcr in bliisling- Aurora Morealis— Coniph;titm of Winter I'npanitions- Daily Routine and Exercise- Ice in Motion — Its AsiK.ct— Retlectious — Weather. , . 2liy— 248 rONTKNTS. XIII CriAPTER X. Ap,,oun.nctt of Wcftthcr-Dcparturo from the Ship-Journey across the Ice-lleiich W Albert's I^ud-Takc Formal Possession of it m the Queens Name-Ascend the Mountain-Incidcnts-Appear- !!"k .K w'**'"'^ I'^c-Our View from its Snmmit-Existence of . North- West Passage established — Descent — Refreshment — .louruejr across the Ice arrested-Critical Position— A Night's Ad- r""V""^r ."•'"'n'^Tr^T^'*' "f Uelief-Iletum on Board-Ilal- kctt 8 Boats-Results of the Day-Celebration of taking Posses- sion of Prince Albert's Land-Ship Stationary and Position- reparations for a Journey to the Northward- Visit Princess Koyal Islands and take Possession-Appearance of Ice gmnnded- Cieological Character of Islands. . . * 249—270 CHAl^ER XI. Departure of the TravelUng Party-Passage over Rough Ice-Fatigue c.yr^''Ti^*^^<'»»^ Return— Accident to Sledge— Despatch a Sledge and Party— A Shooting Partv-Five Musk Oxen killed —Measures adopted— Animals brought on Board— Quantity of Meat obtained-ketum of Captain McClure-Connrmltion of the Previous Discovery of the North- West Passage-View from Mount Ubscrvation— Parry and Richardson— Pomts Peel and Russell— Homeward Journey- A Night on the Ice-Reception of the Party —Difliculties and Hardships of the Journey— Food consumed— I emmi^ and Oatmeal— Housing in— Ventilation and Warming Miip— liiarly Days of November— Occupations of the Men— De- parture of the Sun— Aspect of Winter— Weather— December— A n"'^ p.V°*T^''*' Solstice-Christmas- A Seal-Weather-Laat Day of the Year. ... 271—294 CHAPTER XII. The t'irst Day of 1851-Our Health and Efficiency-Inspection of Crevr — lUickness of Ice— Reindeer seen and pureued— Temperature of lu ., "", 'r'^^"™ °^ ^^^ Riivcn- Re-appearance of the Sun— A VU.Ifand Incidents— Effects of Sun's Rays on Ice— First Spriiiff Operations— A Fox— A Hare killed— A Bear seen and pursuit— V isit to the Western Land— J?ariiig Island and Incidents— Ap- pearance of Land— Removal of Snow Embankment— Temperature ol the Month— Survey of Provisions— Sudden Rise of Temperature — 1 reimrations for 'iVavelling— Despatch of Searching Parties— Ihcir Direction— ImjKirtance of Visiting Melville Island— Captain Austin s Expedition— Pursuit of a Bear— Snow Bunting— A Seal kileil— Report of Game on the Land— Return of Mr. Wynuiatt aiui his subsequent departure— Shooting Parties— An Incidfcnt of ^|M)r^— Success in the Chase— A Bear shot-Incidents and Events. 296—325 XIV CONTENTS. c:iAITKIl Xlll. Au Unexpected Arrival— Casualties— llesults of the Journey— A Bear killed— St^lu^'^! Discovery- Despatch of a Party— Queen's Birth- day— Klucidation of a Mystery- (lulls— A Bear— Discovery of Cam] Formation- Iletiiru of Travollin-? Party and Incidents— Es- (|nunaux— A Visit to them— Deer— Uaiu— Ducks— Kctum of (^aptflin McClurc— Results of Travelling— Intelligence received from Esquimaux— Incidents— Frosl-Bite— Bears— Ikturn of Mr. Wynniatt's Party— Results— Necessity of ComDincd Action— Cha- nicter of Land— Incidents- Return' of Lieutenant CressweU's Party— Progress of Thaw— SUtc of the Ice— Temperature and Weather. ..... 320—350 CHAITEK XIV. SUle of the Icc—Mosquitocs— Water— Ship Liljerated- Incidents- Drifting— 'Hie Islands— Our Floe— Make Sail— Position and Dif- ficulties— Critical Situation of Shi|) — Reach Point Armstrong— Reindeer— Drifting to the Northward— Ellccts of Gunpowder on Ici— Point La.ly Ross— A Fox— Musk Oxen— Weather and Tem- |>erature— August— Iiicidenls-Ilain — Drifting — Currents — As- pect to the Northuird— Position on the lOth— Sujjposed Appear- ance of I^ind— OiH;n Water— Make Sail— Fog— Its Difficulties- Ship Aground— Iler Safety— Strange Coincidouce— Aspect of the rx)ast— Conical Hills— Their Formation— Blasting with Gun- powder— Its Etrects—Weather— State of the Ice to the North- ward—Run off Shore to South-West— Spanker Boom carried away— A Gale— Drifting— Unpleasant Position and Prospects. 351— 37t CUAPrKR XV. Dcjtarturc from Prince of Wales' Strait -Chances of passing through it — (^urse to the S""*'^ '" -^»"»K Ice -Drifting- U .. Quarters Our Disappointment Death ol Mr. Sainsbury of t ofifrv ^''r }^'?K ^'"^ ^'^^ ^^5* Commencement St' \«^„of Arctic Service Departure of our Crew to Ikedicy Island Mode of Travelling and fncideuts of the JourncJ s7ir^ n Ik >'n'l.^^*' Spruig- Arrival on Board H.M.S. ' North ami mS ^V^ t'*'°T ^*"'»^" Abandonment of 'Resolute' tn .K. I *'"!• 7"*?"T"^.'**^''^'^'^ of 'Enterprise '--A Visit Wid. r" ff^"'. ^^^' '!? ^'"*^'' «'"= *«• f«»»'l Inference, /Trrivl n " ^,'^""''""'«ent of ' Assistance ' and • Pioneer ' - Fnla, V '■''*'^^*^' '"''" '^"'^*'^ Island -Incidents -Arrival in ''"°""^'* • • • . . 583-596 Al'PEKDlX . 697 file -554 ■■■■■■■I ^ 'i! i jJC 73 I 67 INTRODUCTION. It 18 not my intention, nor, indeed, do I consider It necessaiy, to offer any remarks on the Progress of Arctic Exploration and Discovery, in which this Coun- try has at various times been engaged, during a period of three hundred years, in endeavouring to discover a Passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, which, until 1850, had been sought in vain History has already done justice to the great and persevering efforts of the earlier Arctic Navigators • ami the deeds of daring, skill, and enterprize whicli characterized the more recent Expeditions, are yet too fresh in the memory of the Nation to call for any observation here. They must ever remain an im- perishable record of the prowess and energy of British seamen and marines. It must not, however, be for- gotten that the earlier Navigatoi-s-our Pioneers in those icy seas-are entitled to share in the honoiu- of the Discovery of a North-West Passage, having c .'-»« J.y^aitraftliA • ICO SiMains Lane . LOO 16 i 15J0 14 5 14<0 J^3 5 13 CHART Illustrating the J) iscovery of TTfK NORTH WEST PASSAGE BY H.M. SHIP INVESTIGATOR Arran(]ierl and Comrtft^ limn OFFICIAL CHARTS ANnlWCVMmTS B* ARMSTRO]VG,B.]V._F.R.G.S. TracM oflnvejf^^atpr £Uu „ ... EntrrprLte Reti « - M^Rae . en recf'mn^ \ InitUi^etue ^ FninAiui.r \ ] ^eiiow Parfy fivm Esauuntuix . ) VL-Oa^L* LaiuU K.id 12|5 3 u.jjt:v^ yj. J ^2 ^''''^ ^.anM Kk N ^ \ 1 ZoiiJon TiM.sArdfiy^iir.nSciiaM G^Mar/Mv Sfrttf. . 18S7. 12 ^3 K R IT I«J- On D tAOtitrnJfai ''^'i*Atf,UTH„^lS.'il HIA LA M %. 10 .s 11 r 12, F 1 1 f*/UMl^..^ It lO^ ..L - 10 ^^a/uU K. m/ f G^Mar^Srir' S/ftnf 1957. r xviii INTRODUCTION. if indicated the way, that led us to solve the difficult problem. The efforts so nobly and perseveringly made by this country, in search of Sir John FrankUn and his companions, must form one of the brightest pages in our history. Proud may a country feel, on turn- ing to a record of the deeds of heroism and en- durance in connection with this unparalleled search, affording as it does unquestionable evidence that the advance of civUization and refinement has produced no enervating influence or deterioration on the cha- racter of her sons. Nor, in connection with this search, must I omit to mention the noble and spirited efforts made by our Transatlantic brethren, efforts which have excited in this country so high an ap- preciation and such grateful feelings. I must also mention the name of a Lady,* who has elicited the admiration and sympathy of the world for the devotion and constancy she has dis- played and the eflPorts she has made in endeavouring to ascertain the fate of her heroic husband and his brave followers. It is needless to revert to errors that may have been committed in directing the search, which led to a failure in the object of these Expeditions. For these, we were not res -onsible — officers and men obeyed orders, and' did their duty. That our efforts met with entire approval, we have * Lady Franklin. INTRODUCTION. XIX the proud gratification of knowing — our Most Gracious Sovereign having marked Her sense of our services, by bestowing a Decoration on aU en- gaged in Arctic Service from 1819 to 1855. Deep interest and anxiety were felt, not only in this country, but throughout the civilized world, for the fate of Sir John Franklin and his companions, at the close of 1849, on the return of the Ex- pedition under Sir James C. Ross, in 1849, without discovering any traces of them. The Government then determined on prosecuting the search m an opposite direction, in the hope of meetmg with the missing vessels towards the ter^ mmation of their voyage. An Expedition, therefore, consisting of H.M. Ships 'Enterprize' and 'In. vestigator,' was immediately fitted out, and ordered to proceed to Behring's Strait, and enter the Polar Sea from the westward. The command was en- trusted to Captain Richard Collmson, C.B. That ofiicer hoisted his pendant in the ' Enterprize,' and the command of the 'Investigator' was given to Commander Robert J. Le Mesurier M'^CIure. To this ship I was appointed. These vessels had but recently returned from the Polar Sea, where they had sufiered much in their conflicts with the ice. They were now thoroughly repaired, and fitted for further service with all pos- sible dispatch, and on the 18th of December were XX INTRODUCTION. commissioned at Woolwich. As they had a seven months' voyage in perspective, it was necessary that they should leave England early in January, so as to ensure reaching the ice in good time. So rapidly did their equipment proceed, that, to the credit of all engaged in it, be it recorded, on the 10th of January, 1850, three weeks only from the date of their commission, both ships were ready for sea. The perilous nature of the service, to say nothing of its popular and philanthropic character, was quite sufficient to call forth a host of volunteers. The selection of men for Polar Service is a duty of the greatest import, for on their phy- sical capabilities and moral endowments must depend not only the efficiency of the Expedition, but its safety in the hour of emergency. This duty, therefore, demanded ray greatest care and attention. Men, for Arctic Service, should be of a' cheerful disposition, free from disease, "without blemish and without spot," inured to the life of a sailor, or, in other words, regiUar " man-o'-war's men," in age varying from twenty to thirty or thirty- two years, of middle stature, well-proportioned bodies, strong, and active, with a well-developed, capacious chest, sound heart and lungs— organs which, under any circumstances, are th-. most severely taxed— of stout, muscular liiribs, with a liglit, active gait, and INTRODUCTION. XXI free from any constitutional or hereditary predisno- sition to disease. A list of the Officers and crew of the ' Investigator ' is subjoined. Although the above requisites were not all com- bmed m each man, the result has. I think, proved- from the privations and hardships they so long sus- tamed, and the unprecedented circumstance of their number remaining undiminished by death for a penod of nearly three years and a half-that they were a most efficient and able body of men, well adapted for the service, on which their powers were so severely tested. The preserved meats could not be got ready in tune to receive them at Woolwich, and we were ordered round to Plymouth to await their arrival from Ireland. They were supplied by the Messi.. Gamble, of Cork, and reflect credit on that firm, both from their excellent quality, and from the dispatch used in their preparation, owing to the short notice they had on taking the contract. We met with considerable losses in this valuable article, but from causes for which the contractors were not responsible The salt-beef and pork were of the same exceUent quality ; nevertheless, this department of victualling admits of much improvement. The clothing, with which we were liberally sup- plied by Government, was well suited for Arctic Ser- vice, and contributed largely to our comfort; but our xxu INTRODUCTION. experience suggested several improvements which might be advantageously made in future equip- ments. On the 10th of January, 1850, we took our departure from Woolwich, and after encountering very boisterous weather in the Channel, reached Plymouth on the morning of the 14th, where we found the preserved meats awaiting our arrival. The utmost dispatch was used in getting them on board, and everything was completed for sailing on the evening of the 19th of January, when the ships were reported ready for sea. A List of the Officers and Men of H.M.S. 'Investigator,' who Discovered and Made the North-West Passage. Name. [Robt. J. L. M. McClure Wm. H. Haswell . [Samuel G. Cressifrell I Alex. Armstrong, M.D. Robert J. Wynniatt Hubert H. Sainsburr I Henry Piers . , I Stephen Court , I Joseph C. Paine. I George J, Ford . I George Kennedy IWilliauj Newton iHenry May . ■Michael Jliun |George Brown Sdward Pawcett IenryBIu£f . Toseph Facey. Isaac Stubberfield lohn Kerr James Williams John Calder . Peter Thompson Robert Tiffeny games Evans . ^enry Stone . lenry Gauen. , pomelius Hulott Fm. Whitfield [ohn Wilcox . . peorge L. Milner Jeury Sugdeu 'icliard Ross Rank or Ratiug. Commander. mutenant. Ditto. Surgeon. Mate. Ditto. Assistant-Surgeon . Second Master. Clerk in Charge. 2nd-Cla8s Carpenter. Actiujg Boatswain. Ice-Mate. Quartermaster. Ditto. Ditto. Boatswain's Mate. Ditto. Sailmaker. Ship's Cook. Gunner's Mate. Captainof the Hold. Ditto Forecastle. Ditto Fore-top. Ditto Main-top. Caulker. Blacksmith and Armourer Carpenter's Mate. Captain's Coxswain. Carpenter's Crew. Paymaster's Steward. Officers' Steward. Ditto Cook. Able Seaman. Bcmarks. Died on board H.M.S. 'Resolute/off Cape Cock- bum, NoF. llth, 1853, . from Consumption. f 5**^"* Quartermaster, ( Dec. 24th, 1850. / pied Apriliath, 1853, on 1 board the • Investigator ' I in the Bay of Mercy, from \. the effects of Scurvy. tjl List of the Officers and Crew of H.M.S. ' Invegtigator^— {Continued). Name. James McDonald Wm. Batten . George Qibbs Thomas Morgan John Davies . Samuel Mackenzie Charles Steel . David Harris. John Ames . Charles Anderson Fredk. Tavlor James Nelson William Carroll George OUej . Mark Bradbury John Ramsay John Boyle . Thomas Toy . Samuel Bounsall Ellis Griffiths. John Keefe . Mark Griffiths Thos. S. Carmichael Samuel Helfe John Woon . John B. Earquharson George Parfitt Elias Bow. . James Biggs . Thomas Bancroft Thomas King . James Saunders John A. Meirtsohing Rank or Rating. Able Seaman. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Serjeant Royal Marines. Corporal Ditto. Private Ditto. Private Private Private Private Private Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Remarki. Died on board the • North Star,* at Beechy Island, May 22nd, 1854, from the eiTeots of Scurvy and . Scrofula. 'Died on board the 'In- I vestigator,' in the Bay of I Mercy, April 11th, 1854, from the effects of Scurvy. Died on board the 'In- vestigator,' in the Bay of Mercy, April 6th, 1854, ^ from the effects of Scurvy. Promoted to be Colour- Serjeant Promoted to be Seijeant. Esquimaux Interpreter. atov' — {Continued) . PERSONAL NARRATIVE or THE DISCOVERY ov THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. CHAPTER I. Departure from England-Weather-First Disaster at Sea-Our Crew-Heavy Gale-Ship Leaky-Results-Part Company wxth our Consort-Change of Weather-Means adopted for Drymg Sh.p- Cause of Leakage - Results of our hasty Departure from England-Lime-juice-Enter the Tropics- Temperature of Air and Decks-Crowded State and Results -•Evemngs m the Tropics-The Tropic Bird-Flying Fish- Their Flight. &c.-Change of Weather-Stormy Pe^l^I Bainandlnddents-Thunder-Porpoises-Bathing-Strange Sad-Cro. the Equator-Ships-Their suspicious !ppearauS -Leaee the Tropics-Temperate Zone-Sunset-wLher- AJbatross and other Birds-Character of Winds on either side of Equator-Discolouration of Water-South-west Gale ^hlr Tw f ^'"«"— Moth, Flight and Capture- ^d S':u:7 :• f -^ ^^^'-P-gress-TempLture and Somidmgs-Birds- Double Pay commences-Land- fi 2 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. Cape Virgins-Euter Straits of Magellan-Guanacos-Pata- gonia and T.rra del Fuego-Appearances of Land-Meet il.M.S.' Gorgon '-Another Steamer - InteUigence of Enterprise '-Taken in Tow-Sight a Wreck-The Coast- Patagomans-Fuegian Coast-Temperature-Port Fambe- Altered Aspect of Land-Fortescue Baj-Meet our Consort and Incidents. Ii* i On Sunday morning, the 20th of January, 1850 Her Majesty's Ships 'Enterprize' and 'Investigator' stored, provisioned, and fuUy equipped for three yea^ service in the Arctic regions, weighed anchor in Plymouth Sound, and with a fair, fresh breeze from the East South East, proceeded to sea steenng a course West by South. The ships' had previously waited for a few minutes the arnval of several boats, that were making aU speed towards us, and we had the gratification of receiving our letters, the last communication we were destined to have with the civilized world for many a long day As the western extremity of the breakwater was rounded, the ships of war at anchor in the Sound dipped then: snow-white ensigns of St. George, and hoisted the signal of "Success and Farewell" to cheer us on our way. With the aid of a fair wind and a crowd of canvas, the white cliffs of merry England graduaUy faded from our view, and as night dosed m, and the shades of evening fell, the land of the brave and free was no longer visible. With stout hearts and m high spirits we thus bade adieu to our DISASTER AT SEA. 8 country, and with a strange, instinctive feeling that our cruize would ^irove an eventful one, there ap- peared amongst all a determination, that whatever human efforts could achieve to promote the success of the philanthropic service on which we were em- ployed, would not be wanting, when the time arrived, for commencing operations in the icy regions of the North. For the next few days the weather became thick, foggy, and otherwise unfavourable, rendering it neces' sary to fire signal guns at intervals during the day, and rockets at night, to keep up with the ' Enter- prize,' as she maintained a decided superiority over us in sailing. On the morning of the 24th, when about 140 miles from land, the weather having become still more boisterous, and when under a press of sail in the hope of overtaking our Consort— of whom we had lost sight during the prevalence of a fog— we encoun- tered our first disaster, a squall having carried away several spars, including fore-topmast, fore and main- top-gallant and royal masts, flying-jib-boom, and sprung the topsail-yard— thus rendering us for a time a partial wreck, and, as a natural consequence, in a state of great disorder and confusion. As morning advanced and the fog partially cleared away, the 'Enterprize' hove in sight, bore down, as we supposed to our assistance, wore under our lee quarter, and kept company for the remainder of the B * TJIE NOHTH-WEST PASSAGE. day, but made no communication with us by signal or otherwise. Indeed, had she hoisted the immortal Nelsonian signal, substituting "ship" for "man," that " England expects every ship to do its duty," we could not have had a more practical iUustration of It. Throughout the day all were employed iu clearing away the wreck, and towards evening we 1 ad re- trieved oiu- disaster, and were gratified to see the ship once more under canvas. This was the first opportunity we had of judging of the mate'riel of which our crew was composed, and the zeal, activity, and fine seaman-like qualities which they displayed on this occasion, fuUy justified all the anticipations we had formed of as fine a ship's company as ever left England. The tempestuous weather which set in on the 25th blowing a south-west gale, with rain and heaw' squalls, caused the ship to strain much, and she consequently became leaky, making from fifteen to twenty mches of water daily in the hold; thus adding considerably to the discomfort and confusion pre- viously created, the remedying which still continued to occupy our crew. On the night of the 26th we lost sight of our Consort during a squall, and it was not untU dayhght on the morning of the 81st that she became again visible. She, like ourselves, had been struggling with adversity since we parted company. The gale continued to rage with unmitigated fuiy, and a heavy sea running with all the colossal force LOSS OF CONSORT. 5 and magnitude characteristic of the Atlantic Ocean, the incessant pitching and rolling strained the' ship so much, that the leakage increased, rendering it necessary to work daily at the pumps. The water likewise streamed through the ship's side and upper works to such a degree, that our cabins had at times several inches of water surging to and fro, which coupled with her extremely crowded state both above and between decks with stores and pro- visions, the necessity of having the hatches frequently battened down, and the impure atmosphere thus generated below, established a state of things by no means desirable, and led us ardently to hope for a change. On the morning of the 2nd of Februaiy we finally lost sight of our Consort. The weather having, at length, assumed a more propitious aspect, the wind, abated m force, had become more westerly, she made aU plam sail and stood on her course to the south- west. We also did the same, but despite our best efforts could not keep up with her. However, we were m some degree consoled by seeing H;M.S. ' In- vestigator' once more under full sail, with a fine favounng gale, steering her true course to the south- ward, and the misery and discomfort we had lately experienced were soon forgotten under the exhila- ratmg mfluence of this auspicious change in the ele- ments. The hatches were removed, a fi-e current of air 6 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. admitted between decks, Sylvester's stove for heating the ship was lighted, and other means adopted to dry the dL?k? throughout, after their late partial inunda- tion, and all the evil results of the recent gales were thus remedied as far as it lay in our power then to do 80. We failed to discover the source of the leaking, but aiiributed it chiefly to the service on which the ship had been but recently employed in the Polar regions ; the great pressure and straining to which she was then subject from the ice would readily account for it. We had her sides and upper works recaulked as soon as the weather admitted, with good results. > The continuous fine weather which then set in, enabled us to direct our attention to the re-stowing of the holds, and putting things generally in order, from the great state of confusion they were in on leaving England, owing to the short period allotted to us for fitting out, and the hasty way in which everything was put on board from want of time— fears having been entertained that the season would be too far advanced for commencing operations in the North, were we not to leave England before the middle of January. On the 13th February, the ship's company were placed on a daily allowance of lime juice in accordance with the regulations of the Naval service ; but owing to the special character of the service on which we were employed, double quantity was issued, viz. : one ounce one ounce ENTEll THE TROPICS. 7 daily instead of half an ounce ; the latter, the usual allowance issued in the N; vy. As great care was taken to procure for us lime juice of the very best quality (some complaints having been made of that supplied to a recent expedition) we were furnished with two kinds, one of which was prepared with a tenth part of brandy, and the other, the simple acid boiled and containing no spirit. It was intimated to me by the then Director-General of the Medical Depart- ment of the Navy, that I should be called on to report on the relative merits of the two kinds of acid, and their efficacy as antiscorbutic agents on my return to this country. It, therefore, became necessary, to adopt means, whereby I might be enabled to arrive at results as accurate as it was in my power to obtain. In furtherance of this object, I therefore represented the necessity of each' half of the crew partaking of one preparation, and it was determined that it should be mixed in separate tubs, where each man should drink his allowance in presence of an officer. The weather continued generally fine, wind vari- able, chiefly east and south-east, with a gradually increasing temperature, not only in the air, but also m the sea-water. We had on several occasions, in obedience to our orders, thrown overboard from time to time a cask or bottle containing a scroll with the position of the ship, &c., and this practice was strictly observed throughout our long voyage, untU we reached the confines of the ice. TIIK NORTII-VVKST J'ASSAdK, I (li| On Sundny morning the I7t,h February, we crossed the northern limit of the Tropic of Cancer, in long. 26° 30' \V., and at noon, were in lat. 22° 10' N. We had for some days jjrevious been in expecta- tion of meeting with the North-easterly Trade wind, but it was not until the 19th February that we first felt its cheering influence, its advent having been preceded by calms, variable winds and rain. We had then reached the lat. 18° 4' N., long. 26° 57' W., and the morning being fresh and fair, with a curling white sea following in our wake, sparkling in the rays of a bright Tropical sun, could not but produce an exhilarating effect on the minds of all, as we felt we had now completed the first stage on our journey. As we continued to decrease our latitude in our southerly progress, the heat became daily more op- pressive, temperature varying from 76° to 80° F., but between docks 5° higher. We were still occupied in clearing and re-stowing the holds, the foul emanations from which, arising from the damp, confined air, created by the extremely crowded state of the decks, were now being gradually dissipated, as heat and light were admitted to exercise their salutary influ- ence in removing a great cause of unhealthiness and discomfort. Nothing can surpass the feeling of quiet, indeed I may say luxurious enjoyment, however monotonous it may be, which one experiences after sunset in Tropical latitudes : for, exhausted more or less with KLYINO FISH. Q the oppressive heat of the day, the sun's depnr. ^ ture 18 succeeded by a delightfully cool breeze, most grateful to one's feelings, and refreshing in its influ- ence, which generally continues throughout the night and gradually dies away at sunrise. It then becomes variable in force throughout the day, freshens a little after noon, but is deprived of its delicious coolness, un- til the close of day restores it to us again. The passive enjoyment of these delightful evenings was much en. hanced by a lovely moon, shining with increased brightness in a cloudless sky, and tinging with her silvery reflection, the pretty, undulating surface of a placid sea, through which we continued steadily to wend our way. On the 22nd of February, in lat. 12° 26' N we were favoured with the first appearance of the beauti- ful Tropic Bird {Ph» latitude ^Tesf. TJ"^"'' ''"' "ortl'-'-'em extreme of he Straits of Magellan, which then bore S 42 W distant 979 miles. The momingwas ushered S a dense, hazy atmosphere, occasional rain, and a heavy r™:r- /'■ir^'-P^^betokeiedachtS takerahi Tk " '"• ""^ ^'"^ ^'^ ^^dedy taken aback by a squall irem the south-west We for a heavy gale from the south-west, which obliged 10 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. US to steer several points out of our course. Towards evening, the gale gradually increasing in force, with every indication of a wild tempestuous night, the ship was "hove to" under close-reefed main-topsail, and her head to the north-west, making from five to six points lee way in an hour, with a very heavy sea running from the southward. Previous to the change, the barometers fell ; but when the wind finally settled into the south-west, they each gradually rose, viz., Marine barometer. Aneroid, and Sympiesometer. The thermometer fell eight degrees; sea- water underwent a like reduction ; and the wind carried with it all that bracing, invigorating influence which never fails to accompany a southerly wind in the southern hemi- sphere. The birds which had been about us for some days, became more numerous, apparently revelling in wilder enjoyment with the increasing gale. I could not' but admire the truly noble appearance presented by the Wandering Albatross, as he soared aloft with marvellous ease, dignity, and grandeur, in defiance of the fury of the blast, occasionally descending with electric mpidity, and gracefully alighting on the white crest of a moun- tain billow, was borne majestically along on the foaming bosom of the sea. The Stormy Petrels and Shearwater appeared wonderfully excited, and much more rapid in their flight than I had hitherto observed them ; evidently delighting in the boisterous fury of the elements, then so mercilessly assaihng us, OALK MODERATES. 17 as the towering seas, in rapid succession, broke with terrific force on our devoted ship, now struggling for every inch of ground in the fierce conflict, but in which, despite of all our efforts, she was driven far to leeward of her true course. At the onset of the gale one of the Lepidoptera flew on board, a large species of the South American moth, which was secured and added to ray collection How a creature so delicate in its structure, and so iU adapted for a flight of some three or four hundred miles from land, could have reached us even under the most favourable circumstances, it appears difficult to conceive. Night closed in wi(h heavy rain, thun- der and lightning, and presented an appearance as wild and tempestuous as the most vivid fancy could pourtray. On the following morning, April Ist, there was no mitigation in the force of the gale, which con- tmued to rage with unabated fury, the ship proving herself an admirable seaboat. We had made much lee way, and upwards of a degree of Northing, so that we had lost ground considerably since the previous day at noon. The clouds had assumed the circo-cu- mull and strati-cumuli character, having a white hardened appearance, apparently of dense structure and ascending in their course, from the haze on the southern horizon contributing to their formation ; and appeared to foreteU a change for the better. The air was cold, clear, and invigorating, which together with the sea-water had fallen two degrees in twenty-four 18 TIIK NORTH-WKST PA88AGK. hours, and the barometers were steadily in the as- cendant. At noot), we found our position to bo in lat. 8S° 4'. S. long. 52° 1' W., having thus lost nearly two degrees since the commencement of the tempest. Towards evening the gale had evidently diminished in force, and throughout the night continued steadily to moderate. On the morning of the 2nd, it had nearly subsided, but a heavy sea still remained to remind us of the past, rolling sluggishly along from the south- ward, which rendered the ship very uneasy. The storm birds had nearly deserted us, (a favourable indication of the weather) and those that remained appeared evidently much more sluggish in their flight. On the 3rd, the wind had gradually come round to the northward, which enabled us to shape a course once more for Cape Virgins, then S. 40°, W. 1075 miles distant, but our progress was much retarded by a strong current against us from the south-west. With the change of wind, the barometer and thermometer had undergone a corresponding change of depression and elevation ; sea- water likewise became more elevated in temperature. We picked up several pieces of sea-weed (Alga) and found it beautifully studded with groups of the " Cirrhopoda," young but healthy; the pedicle by which they were attached quite clear and gelatinous in appearance. Several Whales (Physeter Macrocephalus) were ob- served at some distance, going to the southward ; they APPROACH THK LAND. 19 rather enlivened the dulness of all around, as they dis- turbed the surface of the now tranquil sea, with their huge cawdal fin, and the picturesque jets of water, which they spouted into the air, as they sluggishly pursued their onward course. We also saw a small butterfly fluttenng about the ship for some time, but failed to secure him, as a victim to science. Our progress to the southward, notwithstanding the fair wind with which we were favoured, was slow owmg to the existence of a strong current against us' the power of which was, however, fortunately anta' gonized m the curse of thirty-six hours by the contmuance of the northerly winds that blew with variable force, attended by the deposition of heavy dew at night, and all the other characteristics I have previously alluded to. On the 5th of April in lat 4P, S., long. 54° 36' W., the deep sea lead,' with a self-registering thermometer attached, was sent down to the depth of 150 fathoms, and no soundings ob- tamed : the temperature of the water was found to be 40°, and at the surface 59°, with a density of 1 025 The weather continued changeable, occasional squalls with ram, thunder and lightning, but the wind for- tunately, was for the most part fair; and as we steadily increased our latitude, we experienced a daily diminu- tion of temperature. On the 9th, we were afforded the pleasing evidence of om: gradual approach to the land, although Cape Virgms was stUl 379 miles distant, having obtained ^ 80 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. soundings in sixty futhoms fine sand, for the first time sea-weed and diift wood were likewise met with in considerable quantities. Gulls and Albatrosses again made their appearance, accompanied by representatives of all the Petrel family. Although the weather was wild and unsettled, it was less so than on fonuer occasions when these birds were about us ; our guns were consequently in requisition, and although our success was not great, we managed to procure a few specimens by firing as they flew over the ship, so that they fell on board. Trifling as these events were, they proved a most agreeable interruption to the routine of the day, and imparted, for a time, a degree of pleasant excitement, of which we heartily wished a daily repetition. When one of the Cape Pigeons, then the most numerous, had been shot and fell in the water, the rest suddenly collected around it, and commenced pecking at its yet scarce hfeless body. These birds generally approached the ship more closely than any others, with the exception of the little Storm Petrel, which with rapid, swallow like course, darted closely and fearlesdy about the vessel. On the 1 2th, we had reached within 200 miles of Cape Virgins, the weather had become cold and foggy, temperature had fallen to 49° and sea-water 47° ; but we continued to make good progress, and sounded daily in water varying from 60 to 70 fathoms. The number of birds continued on the increase, and we were CAl'E VI110IN8. 21 more fortunate in our sport tlinn usual, having shot a fine specimen of the Magolianio Swnn, {Cygnus Anatoides) a well known inhabitant of these latitudes together with the Sheathbil! (Chionis Alba) a bird fre-' quently met with, at a great distance from land and remarkable for the whiteness and purity of its plumage, as well as forming from its habits the connecting link between the wading and flying birds {GrallcB and Passerince.) At noon on the 14th, having reached within ninety- one miles of the entrance of the Straits of Magellan and in long. 67° 57', W. we became from this date entitled to double pay, in accordance with the orders of the Admiralty, that it should commence on attammg the meridian of Cape Horn, which we had then reached. The weather had become still colder and more foggy, as to lead us to supposn we might be in the vicinity of some masses e drifting from the Antarctic Ocean. As evening advanced, we were anxiously looking out for any appearance of land; but the sun took his departure without disclosing it to our view. It was therefore considered judicious to shorten sail, and alter course to West, the direction of the land, and stand in under easy sail, to await for daylight. At six o'clock on the morning of the 15th, to our great joy, we observed the land, the first we had seen smce leaving England twelve weeks before, and I '« l: nn •niK N«)«TII-\VKHr I'AHHAnM. t\\c long mul imxionRly lookml-for Oiipo VirginH, i\w mutU'VmUww vxUv.uuty of Pntngoniii, with itK flno hoU\, Hiul \V(!lU(l«'liii(«(l (Mitlitui imd wliito cliffs, opnuod to om viinv ns diiyliglit. mmlo iU ni)i)oiimrico, and nt 8 a.m. Wd luid fiiirly cntorcd the Strnit of Magrllmi. Unlorfunatuly, howovor, wo cnooiintnrod a foul wind imn i\w Nouth-wcRt, and for tlio roniaindor of tlu? day oontimuMi tacking from tho Patagoiiian shoro to the o|)|>o8itc linul of 'IVrra del Fucga alternately. The gonrral m\wvi of the land on tlu? I'litagonian or northern »u{v. of the Strait, rnneli rc8ond)le8 the DowiKs of the south coast of Kngland ; the headlands aiv bold, prominent and of considerahle elevation, with nmuerous indtntations on the coast line, skirted here and thei-e by a fine sandy beach. We could observe fmm the ship immense herds of the (Juanaco, or Sotith vVmerican IJanm {Anrhmia Llacma) grazing on the heights, or corn-sing along the beach ; they appeai-ed «piite the si^e of nnl to makt> jnon> accurate observation— their num- bers, however, astonished us. Hinis were likewise con- girgated on the beach in gnmt abundanctv— the towering t>utline <)f the Kmeu {Rhea Amerirma) 8to()d forth in bold relief amongst njyriads' of "the feathered tribe that surrounded them. The nu\jority appeared, fmm their plmujige and genend character, to belong chiefly to that fannly with which we had been MKKT TIIK '(JORGON.' 23 SO long fiimilittr (Palmipidcs) and that had afforded UB, on oin- long cruise, sonic sport and much cheer- ful oxcitomont. Wo could not discern any trace of habitation, or of the remarkable inhabitants of this part of the world, and the feeling of evident security, which the Guanaco,' an animal romorkablo for its shyness and timidity, appeared to experience, and collected in vast herds] lod us to suppose that they were far removed from' the haunts of mon, and but seldom disturbed by travellers. The coast of Terra del Fuega, in this part of the Strait, appeared in its outline somewhat similar to that of Patagonia, but we did not approoch sufficiently near to make accurate observations. Early on the following morning, the 10th, at 3 A.M., the strength of the tide setting to the east- ward, and adv(>rse winds, compelled us to anchor off Cape Possession. At 7.30, wo were again under weigh, and took advantage of the first turn of tide setting to the west- ward, soon after which we observed a steaiicr at anchor m Possession \hy ; and much to our satisfaction exchanged numbers with Her Majesty's steam-sloop 'Gorgon,' awaiting our arrival, to lend us all possible assistance in our passage through the Strait. S^^e had been dispatched from Valparaiso especially for this purpose by the Admiral, on receipt of orders from the Admiralty-a wise measure, as the passage, through 24 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. i I the Strait, by such a ship as ours could not otherwise have been undertaken with safety. She had pre- viously towed the ' Enterprise ' some distance, and returned for the * Investigator.' After communicating by signal with 'Gorgon,' we stood on, when she immediately lighted fires and made all preparations to foUow. Soon afterwards another steamer was observed following in our wake, and having closed with us, much sooner than we expected from her great speed, she proved to be the "New World" of New York, bound for Valparaiso and CaH- fornia, last from Rio Janeiro, and as we were informed only ten days out~m announcement we received for as much as it was worth, and with much amuse- ment. She was freighted with a cargo of adventurers, about as wild and motley looking a set of feUows as I ever saw, headed by a captain worthy to be the leader of such a band ; after a verbal interchange of compliments, she proceeded on her voyage at a rapid rate, carrying American colours. The ' Gorgon ' closed with us, about three o'clock, soon after which the tide having turned, she took us in tow, and proceeded onwards at a speed from five to six knots an hour. From her we learned of the safe arrival of our consort ' Enterprise,' six days before, and that she was waiting our arrival at a more distant part of the Strait. On passing through the first narrows, as they are called from the proximity of land on either side, we observed on Point Barranca PATAGONIANS. 26 the wreck of a vessel, high and dry on the beach, and a tent pitched a few yards distant, both of which had been deserted. We were sufficiently close to see the interior of the tent, but no sign of any of the crew of the ill-fated ship. The existence of the tent, and the ship not having the appearance of being broken up in hull, aflPorded pretty strong evidence that she had not been visited by the natives. The appearance of the coast did not differ materially in its general character, from that before mentioned— it was well defined by an outline of rich-looking land; its uniformity interrupted occa- sionally by a few • -oal shaped hills, of volcanic origin, intervening i.„tween which and the sea, a narrow strip of soil, presenting a low undulating surface, affording apparently, the finest pasturage to the herds of Guanacos which we saw grazing on it; butlhey were not near so numerous as we had seen elsewhere. As we advanced towards that part of the Strait, marked on the chart Indian Cove, we observed a dense volume of smoke ascending between a low range of hills ; this was found to proceed from a Patagonian encampment, as seen from the masthead, and around which the natives were sitting. Soon afterwards, but further on, we observed the smoke of a fire kindled on the beach— the usual sign of a desire on the part of the natives to com- municate for the purpose of barter, and with the aid of our glasses we discovered four horsemen and a few 26 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. Others on foot, advancing towards an encampment stoppmg occasionally to watch our movements, end ascertam any sign on our part of communicating. Ihe distance was too great to enable us to judge accurately of their stature, but they certainly appeared much above the average size of ordinary men The advance of night did not allow us to continue our observations, as we still kept on our course and remained but little enlightened on the much talked of subject of Patagonian stature ; nor were we subsequently afforded an opportunity of solvinc. the problem. * We observed the outline of the Fuegian coast, in this part of the Strait much more irregular in ap- pearance and character, and the soU which is sandy more and, and barren than elsewhere ; on it we saw a few Guanacos, grazing on a pasturage, evidently much mfenor to that of the opposite coast, but no trace of habitation, or inhabitants whatever. The novel excitement of the day was most accept- able to us all. The temperature had assumed that of an English winter, having faUen to 40° but the presence of sunshine rendered the day pleasant and otherwise agreeable. We still proceeded in tow of ' Gorgon ' during the night of the 16th, and anchored at an early hour on the following morning oif Port Famine, a small Chilian settlement, inhabited by a Governor and a {e^. soldiers. The few houses of the settlement were JOFN OUR CONSORT. 27 built of wood, and close to each other, surrounded by a stockade, very ancient looking and partially dilapi- dated, being the original houses of the old Spanish settlement. The place is well deserving the name it bears, from its bleak desolate aspect ; although situated on an eminence gradually inclining from the sea, it presents every external feature of poverty and starva- tion. We communicated with a view of procuring fresh provisions and vegetables, if possible, for our crew ; and found that the governor (Captain Dunn of the Chilian service) was an Irishman. We were surprised on hearing him address us in his native language, which had lost nothing of its purity and richness from his long expatriation; but we had evidently come to the wrong place for provisions, for not one particle could Port Famine afford us. We here learned, however, that 'Enterprise ' had passed two days before. At 9 a.m. we were again under weigh in tow of steamer. The general aspect of the country from this point was quite different from what we had previously seen ; it presented an appear- ance wild, bold and picturesque to a degree— the mountains rose almost precipitously from the waters' edge to a height varying from 1000 to 3000 feet, wooded towards the base j but the trees (pine) appeared small and stunted in growth. They had already assumed their wintry garb of snow, imparting a dreary, cheerless character to all around. 28 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. The course of the cataracts, produced from the thawing of the snow in summer, is well marked on tie rugged face of the mountain, and the well defined channels, afford ample evidence of what must then be the force and grandeur they impart to the pic- turesque beauty of the scene. At three o'clock in the afternoon, as we still pro- ceeded in tow, and as we approached the large and commodious anchorage of Fortescue Bay, we there saw to our great delight, our long lost Consort, quietly at anchor, in expectation of our arrival. Some of us immediately repaired on board, and after a mutual interchange, and narration of incidents and adventures during our long cruise, we found that both ships had crossed the Line on the same day, and within thirty miles of each other. Her passage was otherwise much like our own, and we were happy to find all in good health and spirits like ourselves. They also informed us, that had we not made our appearance that evening, the senior officer, (Captain CoUinson), intended to have gone to sea on the following morning,' and after reaching the Pacific, to have sent * Gorgon' back to assist us through the Straits— so that we had just arrived in time to rejoin our Consort. We immediately commenced procuring a supply of water, and made every other preparation to sail at da), light on the following morning ; all hands were, conse- quently, employed the entire night with their usual acti- vity and zeal. The ' Enterprise' had luckily obtained a WANT OP VEGETABLES. 29 few small bullocks, after great difficulty, at a small Chilian settlement on Sandy Cove : one half of these were immediately sent on board to us, with a good sup- ply of fresh fish, which their labour and industry had, by the aid of nets, succeeded in catching in the bay,' and both were very acceptable to us. I regretted! however, that no vegetable food could be procured,' the want of which was much felt after a twelve weeks' voyage. We passed at anchor in the bay, three American vessels, all bound to Cahfornia; notwithstanding repeated eflForts to get to the westward, they had been detained here no less a period than three months, owing to the prevalence of adverse winds. We therefore had good reason to feel thankful, that wisdom and foresight had placed a steamer at our disposal. m U- If. 30 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. CHAPTER II. Preparations for leaving the Strait— Medical Survey— Specimens obtained— Departure— Aspect of the land— Fuegians— Their appearance, &c.— Enter the Pacific— Weather— Towing— Part company with ' Enterprise ' and • Gorgon ' — Heavy Gale, driven to the latitude of Cape Horn— State of Ship— A Spar seen— Damage sustained— Disaster— Loss of Masts— Man overboard— Whales— Recover Life-buoy— State of the Crew —Storm Birds — Incidents — Wandering Albatross Their capture— Sooty Albatross— Deep Sea Soundings, and Tem- perature of Water— Loss of Bread from leakage— Reflections on the Voyage— Tropic Birds— Enter the Tropics— Shape course for Owhyee— Progress— Cross the Equator— Rain- Trade Winds — Temperature of Air and Water — Sio'ht of Land — Mona Roa, its height, appearance, character, &c. Feelings on seeing it— Islands of Mowee and Morotoi— Appearances, &c.— Ship— Oahu— Flying Fish — Arrival of Pilot — Intelligence of our Consort — Anchor in the Roads H.M.S. 'Swift' — Appearance and Character of Island Entrance to Harbour — Preparations for Sea — Honolulu, Government, &c. — Missionaries — Their Laws and Influence Protectorate of Great Britain — Commerce — Supply and demand for all articles— Houses, Natives, Appearance, Dress, Character, &c. — Laws existing — Incidents attending Excur- ASPECT OP LAND. 81 sions— Character and appearance of the 'Island— Legend of its Conquest— Our Crew— Arrival of ' Cockatrice '—Letters and Despatches from England — Completion of Work — Senior Officer's intentions — Effect produced — Climate of Islands. On the following morning, the 18th, the order for sailing was countermanded, owing to the prevalence of a strong breeze from the westward, which would have rendered the towing of both ships impracticable. The day was, therefore, devoted to the completion of watering, receiving provisions from ' Gorgon,' and making other preparations for sea. A medical survey was ordered at my request, on three of our crew, whom, from the manifestation of weakness during the voyage, and other causes un- necessary here to allude to, I considered unfit for the peculiar duties of the Expedition. They were accord- ingly invalided, and sent on board, ' Gorgon,' for passage to Valparaiso, en route to England. The delay Hkewise enabled me to make several additions to the Natural History department; a few geological and botanical specimens, three species of Passerinae (Lanius, Oriolus and Muscicapce), together with some specimens of the Crustacea, and Zoophytes. We much regretted that time did not admit of our seeing more of this wild but interesting country, as our service admitted no delay. All were equally eager and anxious to press onwards to the scene of our future operations, as we had reached our present :iii 32 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. position in what" we considered good time ; and thus completed another important stage on our voyage. On the morning of the 19th, at 4.30 a.m. both ships 'were taken in tow by * Gorgon,* and proceeded at a spr<^d varying from one to six knots, influenced by the tide, which we considered runs through this Strait at the rate of four or five knots an hour. As we advanceu to the westward, the scenery became still more wild and grand, with an appearance of gloom, dreariness, and desolation, seldom presented else- where. The coast appeared everywhere almost inac- cessible, from the bold, precipitous front presented by the stern outline of the rocky mountains, as they rose precipitously from the water's edge, rearing their snow-capped summits in an atmosphere rendered dense and chill by the icy blast from the southern ocean. No trace of vegetation was perceptible, no evidence that the foot of man had ever trodden the wilds of these inhospitable shores, and there was nothing to indicate that the wretched, and uncivilized Puegian had ever dared to explore this dreary waste. Glaciers existed in the gorge of the mountains, apparently their perpetual occupants, which rendered complete the general effect of gloomy grandeur in the sterile, and uninhabited wilds of this part of Magellan's Strait. In the early part of the day, previous to our an- proaching the " Land of Desolation," as it is called, we observed, on the coast of Terra del Fuega, three ESQUIMAUX. 33 canoes issuing forth from a small bay- all glasses were immediately pointed towards them, every one bemg excited, hy more or less curiosity, to see the inhabitants of this remote part of the world. There . were four in each canoe, two women paddling, and two men sitting, one at either end, the former, ac- cording to the custom which exists amongs' savage nations, do the greater amount of manual labour, and on them principally devolves the management of the canoe. These poor creatures were of low stature, dark olive complexion, with long hair streaming in the wind, and a painfully striking, animalizcd expression of counte- nance; their only covering for the body, consisted of a piece of seal-skin, thrown partially over the back and shoulders, and fastened in front. I never saw the race of man before in such an abject state of degradation. They made sundry signs and gestures from the canoes— which, by the dexterous use of the paddle, were now pretty close to the ship— manifest- mg a desire to communicate, but we could make no delay, and I regretted much not having had an opportunity of a closer inspection of specimens of the human race, apparently amongst the lowest in the scale of intelligence. Further on, the presence of others were indicated by fires lighted in a small mdentation of the coast, and we saw several of them in a state of complete nudity, notwithstanding the cold- ness of the weather, standing on a rock, waving their 'i: l!' 84 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. ill arms, and making otlier rude gestures in the air — evidently showing ti desire to communicate, as we observed a canoe coming out from the Uttle bay ; but our onwn^d course soon left it far in the distance, having cousidcrably increased our speed. We continued in tow of ' Gorgon' throughout the night, and next morning, the 20th, a heavy swell from the westward betokened our proximity to the Pacific. About 8 a.m. Cape Pillar was rounded, and the broad expanse of the Pacific Ocean broke fairly on our view. We had now entered on, what was to many of us, a new domain, which certainly did not present a very propitious aspect ; for the heavy sea which we met with, caused towing to become a matter of some difficulty, and as we were placed astern of ' Enter- prize,' the strength of the towing lines was fully tested. We had not proceeded far, when the inces- sant pitching and rolling of both ships carried away one of the halsers, and our Consort, as we thought, unnaturally enough shpped the other. We were thus suddenly cast adrift on our own resources ; she proceeded still in tow of the steamer, we made all sail and followed in the same course. At 1.30, however, we observed 'Enterprize' then consider- ably ahead, part company with the steamer, and the latter immediately bore down towards us; the cutter was rhen sent to her, taking our last letters and dispatches for England, but soon returned with 'the GORGON.' 80 two halsers, and the ' Gorgon' once more took us in tow, and proceeded to follow our Consort; at 3 P.M. wc finally lost sight of her, and we never met afterwards. The weather in the early part of the day presented a very threatening appearance ; the barometers had been gradually falling for the previous thirty-six hours, and there was every indication of a r-voing gale' which, towards evening, had fairly s ;t ,n ,.om the north-west with a heavy sea; the ' Gr rg u,' ho -'ever, led us clear of the rocky bound coasi of Scatheni America. Early on the morning of Sunday the 20th, 1 a.m., the towing Imlsers were carried away, and we were again fairly adrift. We fired rockets and hoisted lights &c to show our position to ' Gorgon,' and it being still dark and tempestuous, we lay to under easy sail. At dayhght ' Gorgon ' was observed some distance on our weather quarter, and we made efforts to com- municate by haUing, writing on a board, and finally by signal; but the heavy sea which was then runnmg, rendered our attempts abortive ; nor could we possibly have sent a boat with her towing haJsers, which we had on board, and which she evidently sought to recover. She dropped astern and was last observed in the afternoon at a great distance on our lee quarter, as we supposed in search of the • Enterprize.' Permission having been accorded to us to caU at D 2 36 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. Easter Island, one of the most eastern of the Pacific Islands ; at noon we shaped a course for it, which then bore N. 44° W. 2145 miles distant. The gale continued to increase in force, with every prospect of its duration ; the storm birds were about us in num- bers ; and nothing was wanting to heighten the wiidness of the tempest. At 1 A.M., on the 32nd, a blue light and rocket was observed in the south-west, which we answered ; but morning failed to reveal the source from whence it came. From the onset of the gale we were utterly unaule to contend against it : it being directly foul for us, we continued to make much lee way, and were drifted at the rate of from fifty to sixty miles a day to the south-west, until we reached the latitude of Cape Horn, where the wind having become more westerly, enabled us to pursue a more direct course ; but no mitigation took place in its force, which continued to rage furiously, and with terrific squalls, rain, hail, thunder and lightning at intervals. The weather steadily maintained this character, without, I may say, an hour's intermission, until the 22nd of May, when in lat. 26°. 34' S., long. J 02°. 28' W., it suddenly fell calm. The lull of the tempest was of short dura' on, and it appeared tc have ac- quired fresh power during this temporary cessation ; for on the following morning, it . again blew with its accustomed violence, and it was not until the 26th, when we had crossed the limit of the southern BAD WEATHER, 37 Tropic (Capricorn) in long. 100°. 49' W., that it finally abated. Next day, to our inexpressible joy, we found ourselves once more under the influence of the long looked for, and now welcome south- east Trade wind. During this bad weather, that for a period of five weeks had thus assailed us, and which for its duration and power, was quite unprecedented to the oldest of us, we felt assured no ocean in the world had less claim to the term Pacific, than the one on whose waters we had been so ruthlessly tossed. We had reason to remember this part of our voyage ; indeed, it formed a memorable chapter in our naval experience. It is difficult to form an idea of the general state of the ship through- out this trying period. The hatches were, for the most part, battened down, dead-lights fitted on, excluding the light from above— ventilation almost arrested, and th. decks saturated with wet, the sea-water at times, being several inches deep on the lower deck, from the heavy seas which incessantly broke over us. Cascades of salt water occasionally made their way through the several creeks and crevices in the hatchways, whUe the piteous moanings and creaking of the poor old ship's timbers, weeping from every pore— and the atmosphere between decks loaded with moisture and noxious effluvia, emanating from so many persons bei.ig congregated in a confined space, added largely to 38 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. h r. the general discomfort. Apprehensions were enter- tained at one time, that we should be driven on the iron bound, inhospitable coast of south-western Patagonia. On Monday, the 28th of April, a spar was observed with some rope attached floating near us, with about twelve or fourteen feet of it upright in the water, conveying the idea of its being maintained in that position by some heavy mass attached to it below water, such as rope, or cordage. It had doubtless been carried away from a ship during the gale, or was a portion of a wreck. Speculation was rife amongst us as to possibilities, as we knew our Consort could not be far distant, and her loss of a spar by no means an improbable event. On the night of the 2nd of May, a sail was observed on our weather beam, but it being dark and cloudy, her form and distance could not be very accurately distinguished with the naked eye. With the aid of a night glass, she proved to be a barque steering to the eastward, and shewed a light which we ansAvered with another. We first thought it was ' Enterprize,' but from the course she was pursuing, we had reason to alter our opinion. We sustained considerable damage on our upper deck on the night of the 10th, during the raging of the storm ; the head and waist hammock netting having been carried away with some other minor mischances. These were speedily repaired as well as our re- sources enabled us then to do. A SQUALL. 30 On the morning of the 15th, a disaster similar to that which we encountered soon after leaving England, again befel us. At 6.30 a.m. (the Senior Lieutenant being the officer of the watch) a squall from the west-south-west suddenly took the ship, which carried away her fore and main top masts, and top gaUant masts, together with the jib-boom— a direful casualty under the circumstances of our position. All hands were suddenly, to our great amazement, called to shorten sail and clear the wreck. Luckily for us the squaU was of short duration, and the wind subsequently, for a short time fell light. The spars with the rigging attached were hang- ing over the ship's side, and four of our men in their activity and zeal, had got out on the jib- boom before this was carried away, (which it was subsequently to the topmasts,) and with it were precipitated into the water— the ship pitching heavily at the time. The cry of "a man overboard" had its usual thrilling effect, when all the crew were in immediate activity to save their messmates, the hfe- buoy was at once let go, and a boat manned in less time than I have taken to narrate it. They were found clinging tenaciously to the rigging attached to the spars, and were soon picked up under the bows, having fortunately sustained no injury; and had only the discomfort of their temporary submersion. Our smallest boat, the dingy, as it is termed, was dispatched to recover th^ life-buoy then 40 THE NOllTH-WEST PASSAGE. floating at a short distance from the ship. As several whales had appeared about the ship, and were still close to us, spouting with a loud blowing noise, their graceful curves of water into the air, we became somewhat anxious for the safety of the little boat, as one of those huge monsters rising under her keel, or a stroke of its powerful tail, would inevitably have capsized her; she regained us, however, in safety. During the remainder of the day, all was bustle and activity in repairing the damages of the morning. Nothing could exceed the zeal with which our men worked, and before the sun had taken his depai-ture, we had the satisfaction of seeing the ship again under sail. Fortunate, indeed, was this lull for us, for within twenty.four hours afterwards, the gale had increased to hurricanic force, to which we dared not show a stitch of canvass, and we were driven at its mercy under " the bare poles." The admissions to the Sick list had at this time undergone a considerable increase, from the almost constant exposure of the men on deck to the fury of the elements. The working the ship frequently re- quiring the whole strength of the ship's company, and the Sick Bay shared equally with other parts of the vessel, in being wet, leaky, and otherwise un- comfortable : nor was there any appearance from the nature of their diseases, of a diminution taking place in the number until the advent of more favourable weather. I could not but admire the fine spirit our STORM BIRDS. 41 men displayed under the worst circumstancss, and the cheerfulness and readiness with which they ever obeyed the caU of duty ; there was only one feeling of regret expressed amongst them, that the continuance of the tempestuous weather, might so far delay us in our voyage as to prevent our reaching the ice m time sufficient for active operations that season. Throughout the long period of these gales, the storm birds were our constant companions, in greater or lesser numbers, and in addition to those formerly alluded to, we observed the Sooty Alba- tross, (Diomedea fuliginosa) and Fulmar Petrel (Pro- cellaria glacialis). Either pressed by hunger or emboldened by the fury of the storm, they flew with wonderful impetuosity within a few feet •of the ship; darting almost with the celerity of lightning at the slightest object they saw floating on the water, and uttering that remarkable shriU noise so peculiar to the storm birds of the ocean. Fishing lines, with hooks baited, were in great requisition, and were floated astern with a piece of corkwood attached. These they seized with voracity, and in this way we procured from time to time many specimens. On one occasion, we hooked one of the large wandering Albatrosses, and it was quite wonderful to witness the instinctive feeling of self-preservation which he displayed. When conscious of being caught he immediately dived, and on rising with wings expanded to their utmost extent, 4hrew himself Ill; 42 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. partially on his back, thereby adding increased power to the great surface of resistance presented to our efforts in hauhng, and by this means bent the hook, which finally escaped from his mouth, and was drawn on board perfectly straight. The bird rose proudly, shook his head, and flapping his wmgs as if conscious of success in the rcemt canHkt, betook himyeif to flight. Two of these creatures, which we sul-sequentiy caught, wert- brought on board with some difficulty measured 10 an nin he height of which is about 1500 feet, preseii 4 b my fine, picturesque appearance, for as the day advanotd OWHYEE. 47 the 811 I's rays gradually dispeUed the mist that enshrouded it, through which its conical tops now peered, disclosing their high lands in the purest snow-white garb, and beautifully reflecting the scorch- ing rays that illumined the chilling loveliness of the scene. This island is of a purely volcanic character, as was fully evidenced by its general aspect. It is of great ex- tent as we continued to run along its coast the entire day, and wight did not free us from it ')oundaries. I cannot express the delightful feelings with which we viewed the land, fter a sea voyage of upwards of 15,000 miles, and as the ship continued to near the port, our impatience and anxiet evidently increased. On the following day, Sunday, 30th, the other islands of the -rcvp came into view, Mowee and ^orotoi, both oi v/hich were grand and lofty in their gener'^ outUne, and truly picturesque. Deep gorges an valley? a wl ich we observed numerous huts, interrupted t.. j continuity presented by the bold precipitous coast line ..hich the eastern aspect of these isl ads presented, both of which were of volcanic origin. Judging from appearances, ^ese gorges and valleys are quite secluded and isolai> d from each other, walled in, as it were, by the Jotty mountains which sm rounded them; appareitly thev were weU cultivated, and the huts comfortable andc mmdiaus. We were favoured wit1< the agreeable sight of a fellow voyafe'T, for the irst time^ T may say, smi;e ¥ 48 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. if ' leaving the Straits of Magellan, with whom we ex- changed colours. She proved to be an American, and, like ourselves, bound for the Island of Oahu,' which was visible at sunset, but as night soon afterwards closed in, the ship was hove to, to awuit for a pilot. From the time we approached these islands, we observed the Flying-Fish more numerous, in greater shoals, and larger than we had at any time before seen them ; they were likewise difierent in colour, being of a reddish brown. Several flew on board,' one was no less than sixteen inches in length. At 4 A.M., on the morning of the 1st of July, we made all sail for the harbour of Honolulu, and alter firing two signal guns, a pilot came on hoard. We much regretted, owing to wind and tide he could not then take us into harbour, and were, there- fore, obliged to anchor in the roads, outside the reefs, where we found several merchant vessels, and the French corvette ' Bayonnaise, ' whose gallant Captain politely sent an officer on board, immediately we had anchored, with offers of assistance and congratulations on our arrival. We had previously exchanged num- bers with H.M. Brig, 'Swift,' at anchor in the harbour. Our first enquiry was for our consort ' Enterprize,' whom we learned, with deep regret, had only left on the morning preceding for the North, having arrived here on the 25th of June, and after replenishing DIAMOND ISLAND. aq proWsions slorca, &c., her Captain. „ot considering it hav.„ left .nstmctions for our guidaneo with t ,e senior offacer, Captain Aldhu.„, of the 'Swift' No t.me was therefore lost in making the necess^ preparations for following her. ntcessaiy The appearance of the island of Oalm as we an. proached, was like the others, of voleanic org' P.curesque and beautiful, intersected by vZ"' «1 h the flounshmg town of Honolulu is situated beadf™ ;""■""' "°''°^-"''"- ^"ter-melons bread.fnnt and every variety of other tropical frui "■ «'f "'?»'"''»'-• Ther. is a re^arkaWeTooZ ™o„nta,„ situated south-east of the town, and 5 ta shape and isolation, standing alone n the Mn close to the beach, the name of " Diamond Isl»d" has been given to it. p,«„ n, f„„„2„ iT tT '" ''"""'' '' '^"«'- ag™™°t;,ow two thu..s a.^ formed of distinct volcanic cones "n wh.ch .s super.i„,posed a stratified depositioTwh-ch tz :l:t r-^^^'*"''^'' ^weneet: water, when the volcanic cones shot through the bed of e ocean, or deposited after they had bee'n form ' but m either ease, long previous to their acquiring terrestrial existence. acquiring At six o'clock on the morning of the 2,.J, we got -nder weigh, and proceeded to the entranc; of fhe .50 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. harbour, where we were safely warped by the natives; and anchored. This is narrow and dan- gerous, as sand-banks run out on either side on which we saw the remains of several ships that had, perhaps, journeyed far over the globe, only to deposit their timbers here. On enter- ing the narrow channel, an acute angle must be rounded, which, in certain states of the wind, is attended with danger. It is then that the warps, having been previously laid out, are seized by the natives, who, in great numbers rush into the water, and by the united power of their muscular frames, ships are warped in safety to their anchorage. No time was lost in replenishing stores and provi- sions, and making all other necessary preparations for again proceeding to sea. Captain Aldham and his fine, noble-hearted crew cheerfully lent us every assistance, which enabled us to allow our men leave to go on shore and enjoy themselves after their own fashion, for they had earned every indulgence that could b.3 granted to them, by their exemplary a ..d admirable conduct. We commenced a thorough exploration of the island, and mounted on very in- different horses, soon exhausted " the lions" of the place from end to end. Honolulu has lost almost everything pertaining to its ancient character, laws and customs, and wears now an aspect truly mongrel, half native, half foreign. AMERICAN MISSIONARIES. 51 The government is vested in the King and his minis- ters ; the latter were, I think, with a solitary exception ehosen from the Missionaries who appear to exLise sovereign power in the island; the exeeption being that of the Mmister of Foreign Affairs, (Mr Wy e^ wo IS, I believe, a Seotohman. They nearif^ belong to a braneh of the Boston Missio'naf Society, and shame to om- country be it told the.; was not at this time a single BriLh missiona^T the en irc group of Sandwich Islands. All the good work for the spiritual, and it would also appeal for the emporal welfare of the people, has bL a^ .. complished by the zealous labours of the citizens" a country to which these islands may not improbably at a period perhaps not distant, own their allegiance I was certain'y su^irised to find that this fine gLp of .a ands daily growing in importance, from the geogra- Phical position they occupy on the globe-situated as they are on the direct highway between Asia and Amc ica, and through the latter to Europe-which own &eat Entam as their protector, and eany her Union Jack in he upper canton of their flag, were then so en- •r ly under American influence, while the number of active and enteiprizing adventurers f™„ the States fai exceed those of any other nation. They ecrtainlv deinand inore of our fostering care and pr I^ o herwise the "Meteor Hag" may in time be s'uppl^cd by the Stars and Stripes" of the New World there were a great number of ships i„ the h.arbour, E 2 lirt i ' 62 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. many of thera whalers, which resort hither from their cruising ground in the north, to refit and recruit the health of their crews. The majority of the others were traders chiefly engaged in the carry- ing trade between China and California. Ab^..^.t the principal wharves there is a great bustle— vessels are in process of taking in cargo, and discharging ; passengers bound for California are congregated in groups; numbers of the natives are employed, whose harsh, discordant sounds of voice, by no means added to ihe tranquillity of the scene. Trade is very b>isk not only with these places, but, with other parts of the world, and during the pre- vious twelve months, it had increased to a wonderful degree. In consequence of which, the call for native produce far exceeds the supply, and it would appear that the resources of the islands were unequal to meet the heaviness of the demand. I was informed that the prices of articles of every description had risen a hundred per cent., within a few months. English, American, and European manufactures and produce can be procured with facility, but at an enormous price. The markets are poorly supplied from the rapidity with which things are bought up; fruit and fish oven are scarce from the same cause, and exorbitantly high in price. There are many very fine houses in the town and neighbourhood belonging to merchants of the NATIVES. 63 place, built apparently with great regard to comfort and coolness. The native huts are numerous, and formed of a wooden frame-work well put together, and densely thatched with straw, that renders them not only cool, but hkewise impervious to rain ; they generally possess but one apartment, on the floor of which mats are spread, where the occupants eat, drink, and sleep. The natives appear a fine athletic race, well formed, tall and muscular, erect in their gait, and of a dark brown or copper colour. I believe, they enjoy a great immunity from those direful evils, that civilization frequently carries in her train, and which have contributed largely to the degeneration of the natives of many of the more Southern iilands in the Pacific. They are clad, for the most part, in a modified style of European dress, of light fabric suitable to the climate, consist- ing of short trousers and shirt; but in the coun- try both are frequently dispensed with, and the "maro" substituted; a hat being often worn with it, as if to supply the want of other portions of dress, and this apparently imparts great dignity to the wearer. They are uniformly civil, courteous, and obliging, many instances of which I had an opportunity of observing in my rides through the island; for it not unfrequently happened to myself and companions, where roads did not abound, that wc went astray. This was no sooner observed, than we could dis- uw w "* THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. cern a lightly clad guide hastening over the plain to our assistance. These remarks are equally applicable to the women on whose beauty I regret to say I cannot bestow un- qualified praise ; nor on their dress, a long loose robe drawn closely at the neck and extending down to the feet— this is, I believe, the only garment worn, and was generally made of printed cotton of gay colours, into which yeUow entered largely. This appeared to me, as they evidently thought themselves also, the tint most becoming to their complexion ; other articles of dress are, of coui-se, superadded according to the wealth and position of the individual. They are exceedingly fond of dress, and love to display bonnets gaily decked with ribbons. Veils and umbrellas are also articles much coveted, and worn even by some of the poorest class, who make great Gacrifices to obtain them, while their huts afforded ample evidence of poverty and want. From the abundance of horses, they may be frequently seen mounted and riding like the men, which had rather a curious appearance ; on these occasions I re- marked the dress was prolonged foi some distance over each foot, forming a sort of miniature habit on either side. The higher orders of females were generally attended by a female servant sim^'' .dy caparisoned. They are under very severe missionary disciphne, and the savage "taboo" is extensively in force, witli the laudable view, I believe, of promoting a' high standard of morality in the islands; but as far as I ABSURD LAWS. 65 could ascertain, this rigour not only defeats ita purpose, but tends largely to promote and foster a great amount of secret sin and infamy, which are the worst of evils. The absurd laws then in force aim to establish such a moral code, as exists amongst no people on the face of the earth, and this is largely and secretly violated by those who are obliged openly to profess it, under fear of the pains and penalties its violation entails. I may here adduce an instance of some of the absurd, puritanical laws which exist— the uise of wine and spirits, is totally prohibited, under pain of being denied the rites of baptism, and other privileges pertaining to the Christian religion ; and I was informed that a respectable American merchant was anxiously looking out for the arrival of a British man-of-war, bearing a chaplain, that he might have his child, then many months old, baptised—a rite the clergymen of his own church had refused, because he allowed wine to be drunk in his house. Such is a specimen of the missionary code, and, for the good of the community, the advancement of that Holy religion, of which the law-makers are ministers, the sooner it is repealed the better. Amongst the pleasant rides this island affords, one is deserving mention, no less from its beauty than its historical interest. It is thronffh the delightful and picturesque valley, thr-t ri^cs with a gentle ascent to the westward of Kk lown, and intersects 5S THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. f\ m' M the lofty chain of mountains extending from end to etid of the island, whose towering proportions impart much grandeur and beauty to the scenery. They are wooded to their summits, and the luxuriance of the foliage and richness of the verdure, presented a truly beautiful appearance, as the rays of a departing sun, falling on its irregular surface had from the effects of light and shade, revealed to view the most varied tints of the richest green. In the valley, and extending up the sides of the mountain, are the summer resi- dences of the King, and of the missionaries and merchants of Honolulu; all prettily situated, where the mango, banana and palm, with every other variety of tropical produce, luxu'-iantly abound. The mansion of the King is a plain quiet looking house, with no particular indication of its being a Royal residence. Ihose of the missionaries have all a substantial comfortable appearance, which together with their well stocked farms, afford another illustration of their hvmg in the enjoyment of the fat of the land. This vaUey abrnptly terminates in a ledge of high nearly perpendicular rv ks. About five miles from the town, a winding path descended to a rich plain below skirtmg on the western side the longitudinal range' of mountains, and corresponding to that on the opposite side of the island, whose shores were washed by the sea about a mile distant from where we were standing. 1KVA8I0N. 67 A few huts were interspersed through the plain and aroun.' them reigned an air of quietude and repose, delightful to eontemplate. The high roeks on which we stood were classic ground, for there the lost battle was fought that placed the Sovereignty of th,B and the other islands of the group, in the hands of the ancestor of the present king, (his grand- father Kamehameha,) and at the base of the rock may 8tUl be seen the bones of the gallant defenders, now whitened by years of long exposure. The story is told that when the invader landed he was met by the natives in great numbers on the plam of Honolulu, who there gave battle. Thev were ultimately obliged to retreat up the vaUey I have mentioned, gallantly defending their soil as they re .red untd they reached Its top, whe,^ they made a last final stand, but were i^.erly vanquished; the conquerors driving them over the roeks i,ao the pre- cipice beneath, and left few, if any, to Kco.d thei. disaster or teU how their island had pas. d Vto th- hands of the invaders. King Kamehameha III now rules, or rather is ruled by the missionaries, and they have no doubt done much in former years for the country and IS inhabitants; it is, thei-efore, earnestly to be hoped that a more enlightened system of legislation will soon prevail. During our stay, I heard that an old woman 68 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. survived in a remote plirt of the island, who originally belonged to Owhyee. She had a clear recollection of the death of Captain Cook, and could narrate the circumstance with great accuracy. I regretted much that time did not enable me to visit her. It was gratifying to witness the great enjoyment our men appeared to experience in their short run on shore; they were to be seen everywhere, some mounted on horseback, others running along the road in expectation of their turn to ride. All, I believe, had more or less violated the existing missionary laws, and a few gave unmistakeable evidence of indulgence in fluids stronger than water. It was only wonderful no casualties occurred, from the fearful pace at which they galloped through the country. Nothing could exceed the fineness of the weather during our stay, and although the temperature varied from 75° to 80°, yet from the uniform regularity and steadiness of the refreshing sea breeze, the heat was by no means oppressive— the insular position of these islands tending so much to modify the effects of the high temperature which generally prevails. From all the information I could collect, the climate may be pronounced a salubrious and delightful one, as evidenced in the high standard of health enjoyed by its inhabitants, and the degi-ee of longevity generally attained. J 'f. CAPTAIN COIUNSON. 50 Ontl,e3rd,H.M. Brigantinc 'Oockatrice' arrived from Ma^atlan-the Adn,iral i...i„g ve,y kindly dispatched herwiththe latest letters an.l dispatches from England ; but as few of the former were received we assumed they had been sent on to Valpamiso, iii the hope of meeting us there. We had originally ."tended to call at that port on our way to the norti; ward; but as our passage had been so much delayed IbLoned ''""'"' ^™ ^^P^^-o^d, the idea was On the evening of this day. we had nearly com- pleted our work, and continued uninterruptedly throughout the night making preparations for our expected departure next day. AH participated in the teelmg of an.xiety that no time should be lost as we had heard that Captain CoUiuson had expressed h.s mtenfon, (mdecd his orders to us were to that effect as we learned subsequently,) to take the • Plover' into the ice with him, in the event of our no't reaching Belmngs Stra.t in time. This intelligence was received with manifest dissatisfaction-nor could we understand why we, who were all volunteers for service in the ice, should be thus thrown aside to rcmaui in listless inactivity, while others would assume the place in this philanthropic service we could not concede to any, and which it was our undoubted privilege to occupy. Had a stimulus been required for increased exertion It was at this time present; and a general determi! 60 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. nation was taken, without oui then exactly seeing thn mode in which it was to be carried out, that Behring's Strait must be reached in the proper time, to prevent what we all individually and collectively would have considered a misfortune no less heavy than unde- served—our being debarred from taking our proper place in prosecuting the search for Franklin and his brave associates. m DEPARTURE . JM H« OLULU. 61 CHAPTER III. Departure from Hoaolulu-C.mpletion of Stores and Pr Bions, and facilUiea afforded-Orders of Captain Colli. -His intended Route - Valuable intelligence received res. ,ng the Winds - Adoption of it and success which foaowed- Incidents Events - Enter the Temperate one -Progress, Sou ..^s, &c. - Currents - Change of ''emperature-Pass the Aleutian Islands, and enter the Kamt- bohatka Sea-Sea Birds-First Seal seen -Gore's Island Currents and Temperature — Difficulties of Navigation — Weather-King's Island-Soundings-Pass Behring's Strait -Cross the Arctic Circle-Incidents-Whales-Temperature of Air and Water-Steer for Cape Lisburne-Issue Warm CIothmg-Meet the ' Plover '- Unfavourable Report of the Ice-Incidents -Crow's Nest -Cape Lisburne-Birds, Dnft-wood, &C.-H.M.S. ' Herald '-Non-arrival of ' Enter prize '-Determination to enter the Ice alone-Aspect of the Cape-Object of Visiting it-Signal from ' Herald '-Probable position of 'Enterprise' -Part company with T rald'- Admiralty Orders to keep Company-Proceed to :he North wrr wt"""^ '' "° ''''' '^ '^'- ^^«-^-i- On the 4th of July, the last portion of our provisions and stock was taken on board. We failed in obtain- mg an ample supply of fresh meat, owing to several .>',W^ "b^ ^. .V*. ^. O 5^^-^« IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^. /^'^ % vl ■em J^ '> \ -<^ 1.0 I.I |50 ^ US 2.0 IL25 i 1.4 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 1.8 1.6 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^N- iV a? x\ ^ m z:^.'^ '• ^ ^Si «■?. 4 \\ 62 THE NOUTH-WEST PASSAGE. bullocks having been drowned in attempting to land them from one of the native boats, and our stock was consequently reduced to one bullock and twelve sheep. The supply of fruit and vegetables was likewise short, from the scarcity consequent on the briskness of demand. It consisted of water-melons, bananas, pumpkins, cabbages, and other fruits and vegetables j but we could not then procure a single cocoa-nut, abundant as they are on the islands, all having been bought up a few days before. The ship was again, therefore, much crowded, every available spot occupied above and below, as we had completed provisions for three years, and nothing further remained to detain us. For the rapidity with which we were thus equipped and made ready for sea, we were much indebted to the facilities aflforded by the merchants, and the kind and able assistance we received from the Consul-General Mil- ler. Captain Aldhara and the officers and crew of the ' Swift.' I am sure the latter gallant and es- timable officer, should these pages ever meet his eye, will not readUy forget the visit of the ' Investigator,' and the circumstances which led to his acquaintance with her officers. At 6 P.M., on a lovely July evening, the * Investi- gator' was again under weigh, and standing out to sea, with the same light and fair breeze which had brought us to our anchorage, steering a course to the north-west. IMPORTANT INTELLIGENCE. 63 I may here pause to mention a circumstance that, above all others, exercised the most important in- fluence on our future destiny, and which was mainly instrumental towards making the Discovery that dis- tinguished this Expedition. The orders of Captain Collinson stated his inten- tion to run down in the latitude of the Trade- winds, until he reached the meridian of 174° E., in the expectation of there meeting with westerly winds, that he expected would carry him clear of the Aleutian group of islands into Behring's Strait. This being the course generally pursued and recom- mended by former voyagers, and which we, no doubt, should also have foUovred, had a fortunate circum- stance not occurred to prevent it. On the day previous to our leaving Honolulu, we heard from the inteUigent captain of a merchant ship (I think an American) who had just arrived in har- bour, and who had had much experience in navi- gating the seas to the northward, that he had met with nothing but easterly winds for some weeks, which were the prevailing winds at this season of the year, and he strongly advised us, instead of following the course I have mentioned above, to steer direct to the northward. This he told me and several other officers, at one of the hotels where we met him, and he was most energetic in denouncing the folly of pursuing any other course. I am sorry that I am not in possession of the name 64 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. I I if of this fine intelligent old sailor, to enable me to record it, that he might be aware of the important results that foUowed the adoption of his advice. On the following day, the 5th, we had finally got clear of the most northerly of the islands, and pursuing the counsel we had received, had shaped a direct course to the north-west for the Aleutian island of Atoka, which then bore N 72° W. 1790 miles distant. We had thus entered on nearly the last stage of our voyage under very favourable circumstances, much refreshed by our recent visit to these lovely islands. We were in excellent health and in high spirits from the mteUigence we had but lately received, and were now acting upon, in ardent expectation of reachmg the scene of our future labours in good time. ° Before leaving the Sandwich Islands, I took ad vantage of the last opportunity I expected to have to mvahde three men as unfit for the service of the Expedition, but who would be quite available for the ordmaiy duties of general service; and they were discharged into the ' Swift ' for passage to Valparaiso. Their places were filled up by three volunteers, two from the ' Cockatrice,' and one from a mer- chant ship. The general state of health of the crew was excellent, although several admissions to the sick list had taken place since our departure but LEAVE THE TROPICS. 65 With affections of no greater importance than those generally resulting from sailor's indiscretions on shore. On the 6th, we finally quitted the balmy regions of the Tropics in long. 160° 10' W., and again entered the northern Temperate Zone with a fine fresh breeze from the N.E. which bore us steadily onward, our speed averaging each successive day considerably upwards of a hundred miles. As we continued our northerly advance, the tem- perature of air and water sensibly diminished, the atmosphere gradually lost its pure, serene character and became dense and foggy, but the win. remained still steadily m our favour, occasionally varying a point or two, but fully verifying the intelligence we had previously received. The fog was on several days so dense that we were unable to obtain a meri.' altitude of the sun, nor could an object be seen any considerable distance ahead of the ship ; but we still held steadily on our course. O the 19th, our observations told us of our near approach to land • several flocks of ducks and other birds were seen! which afforded us corroborative indications. The deep sea lead was sent clown with thermometer to the depth of 180 fathoms, but no soundings were obtained; the temperature was ascertained to be 40°, that of the surface water being 51°, of air 50°, and the current setting to the southward was estimated at the rate of ten miles per day 66 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. At five o'clock on the evening of the 20th, land was reported on the port bow, and the bold, stem looking outline of the eastern extremity of the island of Amlia could be faintly discerned through the dense haze which enveloped it, then distant about ten miles. An hour afterwards, the western ex-' treme of the island of Tchunam was observed on the starboard bow; indistinctly, it is true, but equally bold as its confrere on the opposite side. About the same time we passed through a rapid tide, and cleared the Strait between these islands, in which we obtained soundings in thirty-five fathoms. The hazy state of the atmosphere did not enable us to make any accurate observations of these islands, as the general aspect and outline of either could not be seen ; but a smaU rock oflF the eastern extremity of Amlia, might be considered a good mark whereby to identify it. With the sun's departure this evening, we quitted the northern limit of the Pacific Ocean, which we had entered exactly three months previously. Smce leaving Honolulu on the 4th, our progress speaks for itself; having entered the Kamschatka sea on the evening of the 15th day— a passage remarkable for the favourable circumstances under which it was . made, ihe wind never once being otherwise than fair, and this too in latitudes where the experience of the old voyagers would have led us to expect a very difi-erent state of things : and the result exceeded th, land d, stem 5 island gh the t about 3rn ex- bserved lie, but e side. I rapid mds, in ithoms. able us slands, iildnot nity of hereby quitted which iously. 'Ogress Ja sea, rkable it was n fair, ice of a very ceded ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. 67 the expectations of the most sanguine amongst us. We had yet another difficult stage to pass before entering the Arctic Circle, and one which could not be thought of without apprehension, from -the imperfection of the charts, and the foggy weather known to prevail. While passing the Aleutian Islands, numerous flocks of sea birds were about us, they doubtless frequent them in myriads— embracing, I beheve, all the famUy of the Palmipides. Two little Auks {Alca Alle) flew on board at night about 10 p.m. evidently exhausted, and were speedily captured. On the 21st we shaped a course for Gore's Island, which bore north, 396 miles distant— being then in the latitude of some parts of England, (53° 44') and the height of its summer, we found a great difference in the relative temperatures of the two places, the mean of the day being 47°, which under- went a daily decrease for the remainder of the voyage. As we continued our course, we felt the effects of the southerly current in a more marked degree, carrying with it sea-weed and drift wood in con' siderable quantity, and the birds likewise became more numerous : the Albatross had ceased to visit us before leaving the Pacific, one species only (Diomedea Puliginosa) had attended us so far; but their place was supplied by a great variety of Ducks and Divers, the King Eider {Anas Spectabilis) and Loon (Uria BrumicUi) were for the first time seen. F 2 68 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. ■In The Seals had likewise paid us their first visit, and one of them was fired at and wounded. These circumstances together with the increasing daylight, afforded cheerful evidence of our progress, which was still uninterruptedly good, although the weather had become so dense, raw and foggy, that at times we could scarcely see the ship's length ahead. Early on the morning of the 25th, we were fortunate in getting a glimpse of what we supposed to be Gore's Island ; it was passed during a dense fog, and with a fresh south-westerly breeze we shaped "a course for King's Island, off the end of St. Lawrence Island, which then bore N. 29, E. 156 miles distant. The frequent use of the lead became now absolutely necessary, and we sounded constantly each day in water varying in depth from fourteen to thirty-seven fathoms, fine sand and mud ; in one instance only did we find a rocky bottom, near lat. 63° 11' N. long. 168° 3' W. The navigation of the ship had become a matter of no ordinary difficulty, and could not but cause an intense degree of interest, not free from apprehension, amongst us. The con- tinuous foggy state of the weather had prevented us from obtaining such accurate observations as could be relied on, and the sun being almost constantly obscured, we had but little to inform us of our pro- gress, except the log line. Guns were fired at frequent intervals to warn any ship of our approach, and as the chart of this sea was considered more or less ENTER THE POLAR SEA. GO mperfect, the greatest care and vigilance were had recourse to on board to watch for aught that might indicate an approach to land: under these cir- cumstances we still fearlessly stood on. On the morning of the 27th, King's Island was faintly visible about eight miles distant, where we found a strong easterly current setting into Norton Sound. We altered course a little more to the west- ward, to keep clear of the land ; the soundings varied from twelve to twenty-five fathoms, fine mud, and broken shells— the first time the latter were met with. At 11 P.M. still surrounded by the same im- penetrable fog, and stiU speeding onward in the darkness, we suddenly passed through a strong tidal race into a smooth water, which from the noise caused by the opposing wind and current, gave one the idea of its being a well marked wateiy barrier existing between two different seas. On the following morning, Sunday, July 28th, at seven o'clock, we quitted the northern limit of the Temperate Zone crossed -that of the Arctic Circle, and entered the ,- waters of the Polar Sea— an event joyfully hailed by every soul on board. We were now favoured with a clearer atmosphere than we had known for many days, which was also less moist, and although cold was pleasant and agreeable; the sea .had likewise assumed a most tranquil aspect, and we had thus entered on our new domain under auspicious ap- pearances at least. 70 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. In the course of the day we exchanged colours with two American whalers, which were apparently full and homeward bound. Several whales were also seen spoutmg at a distance, and the crang of one (the name bestowed by the whalers to what remains after the blubber has been removed) floated past us on which myriads of sea birds were regaling them-' selves. We were subsequently afforded ample evidence of the number of these monsters fre- quentmg this sea, which enables us to testify to its excellence as a cruising ground for whalers ;. and this IS, I believe, entirely in the hands of the Americans The temperature of sea-water on entering the Polar Sea fell three degrees in four hours, remaining a few tenths above freezing point, which led us to expect an early appearance of ice, that of air 41°. Depth of water vaiyed from seventeen to twenty-four fathoms. On the 28th, still favoured with a light south- easterly wmd, we shaped a course for Cape Lisbmne the proposed rendezvous, which then bore N. 25 ■Ci. 51 miles distant. The first issue of the warm clothing supplied by Government for our use, was then made, embracing one complete suit of blue double milled box cloth, boots stockings, boot-hose, comforters, mits and caps; all of exceUent quality, and well adapted for Polar service, of this I shaU have occasion to speak hereafter. Ihe days had now attained such a length, that at the hour of midnight we had very good twilight. H.M.8. ' PLOVER.' 71 the sun being but a short time below the horizon. At 8 P.M. a sail was observed, bearing down towards us which we soon recognized, gladly welcomed ii.MS 'Plover,' and immediately communicated. She could afford us no tidings of our Consort, having just returned from the ice, which she sighted on the 27th, and afford us a most unfavourable account of its state and condition, it being quite impenetrable. As she had viewed it some three or four miles distant, not deeming it prudent to make a nearer approach, we were nothing daunted by the report but mdulged in the hope that the reahty of mat^ ters would prove less appaUing than the description. We took advantage of her presence to forward our last letters and dispatches for England, then parted company, and proceeded on our course. They informed us that they were regularly supplied by the natives with reindeer and birds, a large number of which was suspended from the rigging, but we were not afforded an opportunity of verifying their opinion of the excellence of such diet. Our men were now daily emp oyed in occupations novel to many, in putting in order, and preparing all necessary implements for ice navigation ; ice anchors and chisels, hatchets, saws, whale lines, &c., were all duly overhauled and got on deck in readiness for use. The crow's nest had been hoisted to its aerial position, at the fore-top-gallant mast head. This weU known emblem of Discovery ships, and of others 72 THE N0UTII-WE8T PA»J»A(}E. employed in the navigation of icy seas, from the novelty of Its appellation may, fi.r the unprofessional render re- quire a short description. It is in form like a baiTel from which it is generally constructed, with a trap door at the bottom sufficiently large to admit one person, and IS hooded over at the top with canvas, so as to afford protection from the wind to its occupant, who is generally the ice master or mate : from this position his observations are made on the state of the ice The number of birds appeared daily on the increase as we advanced, driftwood was obsemd also in greater abundance, and the sea appeared full of ammal life; I had the dredge overboard, and added to my collection numerous specimens of the Crustaceous and Acephalous animals. On the morning of the 31st, when about twenty n^iles distant from Cape Lisbume, a sail was observed to the N.W. standing down towards us, when opinions were freely hazarded as to the probabihty of the stranger proving to be our long lost Consort, or otherwise. The question was decided as the gay ensign of St. George was unfurled to the breeze and her number simultaneously flew at the mast head' which speedily informed us that H.M.S 'Herald' was about to join us. We soon closed, and as she rounded under our stern in good style, she manned her nggmg, and welcomed us with three hearty British cheers, and one cheer more, to the Polar Sea-a comphment we immediately returned, and pro- H.M.8. 'HEHALD. 73 ceeded in company towards Cape Lisburno, tlicn visible. Captain M-Clure presently went on board, but soon returned accompanied by Captain Kcllettand some of his officers, who manifested a great desire to afford us every facility to our onward progress; and off-ered all the assistance it wao in their power to give as far as the 'Herald's' resources would allow! We gladly availed ourselves of their proffered assistance by completing deficiencies in our stores and as we were still three men short of proper complement, we received an equal number of volunteers— strong muscular looking fellows ap- parently well suited for hard service-and as we could have no hope of meeting with another ship, we dispatched a few hastily written letters— our last-to England. We learned with regret that nothing had been seen or heard of our Consort, and having now arrived at the rendezvous, there could exist no doubt that she was stiU far distant behind us. Captain Kellett informed us that it was he who advised Captain CoUiiison to pursue the course which I have before narrated, and which he himself had done for three successive summers, the average passage being fifty days to Cape Lisburne. It could not, therefore, for a moment be supposed, that the ' Enterprize,' (a much slower sailing ship than the ' Herald,') could even, under the most favourable circumstances, have made the passage in much less time ; nor did any of us 74 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. ! ' t believe it possible for her to have done so, despite the opinion that was then advanced to the contrary We received no orders from our senior officer (baptain CoUinson) as to our course of action in the event of reaching the rendezvous before him; the pcMsibility of such a contingency occurring, evidently had never been for one moment entertained We were consequently obliged to adopt a coarse of action for ourselves. One of two only were left for us to pursue-either to remain at the rendezvous untU the arrival of the ' Enterprize,' with the uncertainty of then meebng her, owing to the foggy state of the weather, and thus lose the season in the ice; or at once proceed to the northward, and enter the ice single-handed. We .^solved on the latter, and cheerfolly prepared to encounter aU obstacles ^d dangeis, with a finn reliance on a mercifiil Providence, and fuU confidence m our resom.es. Never did any body of men enter on a hazardous enterpnze with stouter hearts or finer spirit than the brave crew of the • Investigator' then manifested, and mamteined throughout every subsequent stage of our eventful voyage. did^l't f f "'.f .''""g"' «•" ««™r officer present, did not feel himself justified in detaining us. From this date, we formed an expedition in ourselves, and parting with the 'Herald,' after an interohange of comphmeritapr signals, stood in for Cape Lisbunie- the 'Herald stUl in company astern of us CAPE LISBURNE. 75 Cape Lisbume is a fine, bold headland, some 800 or 900 feet high, and is well represented by the sketch in the published chart of this locality It is of limestone formation, with a range of hills extending to the eastward ; is conical in form, with a line of strati- fication dipping at an angle of about 15° in a south- eastern direction; but the more permanent headland had the Ime of stratification nearly horizontal. The hills were all surmounted by a mass of loose grey sconse, and were separated from eaci ^ther by partial gorges, which sheltered on either side, presented an appearance of verdure that contracted pleasantly with the general barrenness of its aspect. On the top of the most elevated headland, which is likewise the most southerly, a number of conical-shaped points or pillars were discernible, partially enveloped in mist, with masses of snow strewn about ; and this, from Its fine bold appearance, may be considered the Cape To the southward, the low, sandy promontory of Pomt Hope could be seen, running parallel to the range of hills extending eastward from the Cape, and between which a fine bay intervened. Our object in thus approaching so closely to Cape Lisbume, was with a view of ascertaining if a cairn or any other landmark, had been erected that might m any degree affect the resolution we had arrived at of proceeding onwards to the ice ; but nothing was visible to afford any indication that it had been visited at any period eitherr ecent or remote. We, therefore, 76 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. Shaped a course at once for the ice, and stood away to the N.W. ^ W., with a fine fresh north-easterly wind. The ' Herald' stiU kept ominously astern, which did not at aU contribute to our comfort ; for, it may now be confessed, we still feared that Captain Kellett would detam us, and that on reflection, he might see the necessity of keeping us at least some days to await the chances of our senior ofiicer's arrival; but as the truth must be told, an opposite state of the case was urged on him. Captain M^Clure maintained that the ' Enterprise' was a-head of us, and in sup- port of which, retained the private letters he had for Captain Collinson for early delivery. The impossibility of such being the case I have akeady shown-of course no person could truly entertain an opinion to the con ' trary, and I am sure Captain Kellett had too much sagacity not to see the true state of things This I must confess we all rejoiced at, as we were anxious to get on, from a general feeling entertained that our Consort had neglected us. But he was evidently un- willing to assmne the responsibUity of detaining us. Our worst fears were excited however, when in the evening we saw the ' Herald' make aU sail to- wards us, and rapidly closing from her superior sailing qualities, she mode a signal recommending us to wait forty-eight hours for the ' Enterprize,' to which Captain M'Clure signaUzed in return, «' Important service. Cannot on my own responsibility !" This not behig clearly understood, Captain Kellett 1 away to ly wind, lich did aay now tt would see the await but as the case ntained in sup- liad for Jsibility course, lie con- ) much This mxious lat our ily un- us. len in lil to- sailing 3 wait which irtant :ellett OUR EXPEDJTION. ^7 Med from the poop, desiring us to repeat the signal which was accordingly done. She then gradually dropped astern, made no further reply; and at 11.30 This afforded us an inexpressible degree of relief, as we then considered ourselves free from aU control, and the object sought had been attained. Such is a truthful narration of the circumstances attending the bold pro- ject conceived and acted upon, of entering the ice alone, an event hitherto viewed by Arctic navigatoi. with the greatest apprehension, and one which is certainly attended with extreme risk as weU as great danger. Hence two ships have always been sent on Arctic Ji-xpeditions,for mutual succour and support,and for the s^utary controlling influence, no less than the social effect they cannot fail to exercise on each other, when m company. Our expedition, from the period of leaving England, was not a combined expedition, as may be seen from the foregoing pages, although the Adnairalty orders admitted of but one interpretation on the subject, which ran as foUows:— "PTc deem it right to caution you against suffering the two vessels placed under your orders to separate, except in the event of accident or unavoidable necessity." Notwithstanding the positive nature of these orders, 'Enterprize' left us twelve days after leaving England ; and it was by the merest chance we caught her in the Straits of MageUan-it being her intentL • to sail the followhig morning. Hence we could feel 78 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. I III but little regret at losing the cc ripany of a Consort that had hitherto proved so faithless. She manifested a desire to get rid of us altogether, by taking the 'Plover' with her into the ice, in lieu of her legitimate Consort, had she arrived before us. Under other circumstances, her loss could not but be a matter of regret to us ; and I am sure I truthfully represent the feeling entertained by my late mess- mates— the officers of the * Investigator,' when I state, that for Captain CoUinson and bis officers, we had learned to entertain feelings of esteem and regard from our intercourse when fitting out the ships' The special character of the service, the mutual interests existing, and that strong feehng which ever exists amongst men engaged in a hazardous enterprize had strongly bound us together, and it was to us a matter of regret throughout the voyage, that the conduct of our Consort was so much at variance with the kind feeling existing between the officers of the two ships. In support of an opposite view of the case, it may be stated that ships make a better passage when not in company, which I am not at all disposed to admit as a rule ; but assuming it were so, it could not in our long voyage have made a differencJ of more than a few days. This is a trifling cir- cumstance, when compared with the good results likely to accrue from that hearty co-operation and mutual support, which ships in company can afford to each other; and its necessity in Polar Consort She tther, by I lieu of fore us. t but be uthfuUy 3 mess- I state, we had regard, ships, mutual ch ever erprize, to us a at the ariance cers of of the better i at all 2re so, erence g cir- ■esults ration Y can Polar POSITION ATTAINED. 79 We were all, therefore, naturally much elated at the .„g„iar g^a fortune that had befaUen us t had mfr'4'V'P''^ *•"= °"-y -^fortunes we than ^ tif • ""'" '" ■""« •'""^ -^^ "•" -- than aU, that was expected bom m. We had now attained a portion which the AdmmJty, ™d Z most sangu.ne of our friends inEnglJ'4 h 1 ar^en ,y w.shed for, but the. exiLd little' pC the 1st of August. We therefore indulged in the He that, with such favourable prospects^befo^ S and so tunely an arrival in the Polar Sea we could not faa to do much towards advaudng Z object of our noble expedition. ^ On the 1st of August, the breeze had fehened to the force of a gale, and was not qmte favourable for us but towards moramg it had entirely subsided ,^ h ookmg out for the first appearance of the icei the crows nest, therefore, was seldom without an occupant; and as daylight was then pe:.istent "L™ was no pcnod of darkness to inteLpt ou^^ "T or the anxious interest we felt, m houl rf =eek repose. Th.s was to me, the most enjoyable 80 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. period of the day-all work on board had, of course ceased-everything was still and quiet-the watch only on deck reclining leisurely about, ready for action at a moment's notice ; all, in short, hushed to silence, save the low murmuring of the wind, and the wash of waters from the ship's progress : it was there- fore difficult to conceive that midnight had arrived. As the sun approached the horizon, towards mid- night, the aspect of the heaveni was truly beautiful when at twelve o'clock, his lower lim^ partially • dipped, and again slowly ascended on his course • or rather, our orb revolving on its own axis around him. The sky to the eastward, at the time, presented a most splendid appearance— a wide belt of refracted light extending along the horizon resolved into its prismatic colours, imparted a degree of beauty to the heavens I had never before wit- nessed, and from the gorgeous and brilliant yet varied tints of colouring so wonderfuUy displayed to view, could not possibly be surpassed. The moon, at the time, was rising slowly in the same quarter, but quite obscured by the smpassing brilliancy of the novel and beautiful phenomenon I have mentioned, which can only be seen in this way in the frigid regions of the north. of course, le watch tJady for ushed to , and the as there- •rived. ^ds mid- •eautifuJ, partially course ; tTi axis at the -a wide horizon, t degree re wit- nt yet splayed The e same passing 3non I is way ENTER THE ICE. 81 CHAPTER IV. Meet 'Plover' P,. '""P''^*"'^^ApP'-oach the Land- iJai.„ers_ Boats tcwmg _ Encounters with the I-^ Record - Mounds -1 Shin ^'"-^'''"ding-Deposit a mounas — fcjhip grounded — DifficultiPs nf «, pos,t,„n-CoIvme River-Jone,-. Islands- "it to thL Esqi..m.ui_ Interview _l„eid„,, Thl! ■ . •he Ship_Me.. adopted ^l^l" ij T^J, ""^ J^' '» Temperature of Air and Water. ''""-Progress- "ict'Jwd^*"'' *''^"°™™S»f «'e2„d of August, ice a-head was reported from the crow's nest-I the white hue, then visible on the northeru horizon • -d as, we advanced towards it, the sea preseZ lu' G 89 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. i aspect truly novel to the majority of us, as the de- tached masses of ice, in forms the most picturesque, were majestically floating down in our direction. As we stood on, the breeze gradually became much lighter, and the temperature fell several degrees— that of air to 38°. The masses of loose ice became more numerous, and in proportion considerably greater than before. Large pieces coming in our course were cleft by the ship, producing a slight shock, a grating noise, and an equaUy strange sensation amongst us, as the fragments having been partially submerged, were dashed on either side, while the breeze bore us steadily along. The main pack soon became visible ; and chilling • as was its aspect, I am not sure that we did not hail it with a cheer. It was reached about noon, in lat 72° r N., long. 166° 11' W, And thus were aU our ardent hopes at length reahzed, which caused a degree of cheerful excitement amongst us not easy to be described. It certainly presented a formidable ap- pearance, for this lofty, impenetrable barrier extended across our path in a line from N.W. to S.E., much heightened by the refractive power of the atmosphere, together with the uniformity of surface which ice generally presents from the fragments not being entirely clear of each other, although it may be quite navigable, and what is termed loose-sailing ice. This, however, can only be determined on by a near approach. We continued tacking to and fro in loose WALRUSES. the de- uresque, on. As 3 much 38 — that ne more ter than 'se were lock, a 3nsation martially lile the chilling • aot hail in lat. all our * degree to be jle ap- tended S.E., of the surface its not lay be ig ice. a near , t loose 83 ice until the edge of the pack was reached, which was much more distant than we at first supposed. Ihe mass had lost nothing of its heavy impenetrable character on actually reaching it The wind having become light and variable, as we had got into one of the mnumerable indentations of the pack edge, we might have some difficulty in extricating ourselves, were it suddenly to change to the southward. It was therefore, considered judicious to work the ship out again, and for the rest of the day we continued tacking along its edge. We were surprised by seeing numerous herds of ^^^ImseBiTrichecusRosrmrus) grouped together on the large detached masses of ice, drifted off from the pack apparently asleep or basking in the sunshine. The novelty of a sight so unexpected was gladly welcomed and various and amusing were the opinions given by he men who had never seen them before, as to what they could possibly be, while they gazed in mute won- der and amazement at the strange sight before them. They did not exhibit any feeling of alarm as we approached , one or two could be seen dropping into he water, but it was not until we had got- within a i^ yards of them, that, as if by preconcerted signal, they roUed or tumbled into the sea, and for a time became invisible. They appeared to live in perfect harmony, and as they lay huddled together, a lazy listless au- characterized the whole. 1 could not but ad- imre the affection displayed by the dam for her young, G 2 84 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. which were crawling on the maternal back as we approached ; but the moment the mothers perceived the danger, they seized them under their arms and disappeared ; nor did we see them again at the surface, until there existed no cause of alarm. We might readily havj shot or captured several, and a six pounder gun was loaded for the purpose, but was not fired— one was, however, 'wounded by a rifle ball. The meat of these animals is excellent, called by the old sailors "mam. 6ee/ "-a supply of which would have been not only acceptable, but very beneficial to our crew ; and we regretted our not delaying a little for what might have been so easily obtained. For the next few days we continued following the trending of the pack in loose sailing ice, in an east or south-east direction, in the hope of om: turning its southern extreme, and thus making way to the north- ward ; but numerous were our disappointments, as takmg advantage of every opening that was presented we followed its course only to be arrested by the impenetrable pack, at the bottom of the deep indenta- tions so frequent along its edges. At times we came heavily in contact with detached pieces through which the wind did not enable us to force our way. On the first occasion when it became necessary to send some of our men on the ice to assist us, great was the rivalry manifested as to who should first touch its surface; but after a considerable display of agility, the honour was CURRENTS. S6 claimed by the Boatswain. The Walruses were still very abundant, but as we proceeded to the eastward gradually disappeared; the depth of water which they frequented varied from 24 to 37 fathoms. Since leaving Cape Lisburne, we ascertained that a current set N. ^ W. about fifteen miles in twenty-four hours ; and it became a question amongst us, how far it would aid us, were we to proceed along the northern shores of Siberia, and make our exit from the Polar Sea vid Spitsbergen; but we had no intention of trying the experiment, indeed, even at that early period of the voyage, freely indulged and expressed the hopes we entertained of quitting Polar Sea by the more legitimate route of Barrow's Strait and Baffin's Bay. On the evening of the 3rd, the temperatms feU to freezing point for the first time. Throughout the day it varied much, together with sea water— from eight to twelve degrees. Light ice formed on deck and in the rigging; although the navigable season in these regions is considered to commence about this period, and in some seasons even much later. From the general state of the ice, and the frequent abortive attempts we had already made to get to the northward, that had cost us much time and trouble, it was determined to pursue a course towards the American coast— thus, following the trending of the pack edge, round its southern extreme, there being every probability from the direc- M THl! NOBTH-WUKT PA»«4CE. •■ Of tl,e wind«. that ™ter intervciK,,! between it •no Uif shore. On the ujorning of the uth, it W^w a gale from the •ouii.-w.»,, which soon brought n. in sight of the coast. Abom the same time a sail was observed on our weather beam, standing to the westward, and although the morning was foggy, she was suffieiently near to enable us to recognise and exchange „umbe« again w,th the 'Plover ;' but we were too anxious to take advantage of the fair wind, to stop to communicate. She was doubtless, cruising in expectation of the return of her boats, which she had previously informed u» had gone along the coast, with a view of ascertain- ing the truth, concerning a rumour they had heard of a party of white men being engaged in building a ^rlT K """' *" '^' ""'"'""''' ^bsequentlv lound to be mcorrect. We soon approached the land, that presented the appearance of a continuous bank of shingle, having an outwork of dark rocks hero and thero along thf water s edge, near one of which on the coast north- east of Pomt Franklin, (that takes its name from the brave anu gallant officer of whom we wero in search ) we observed sevend momids. into each of which poles wero inserted; to account for this strange appearance our ingenuity was severely taxed. It first, we supposed them to indicate provision depots, but the mterproter pronomiced them to be graves, .t bemg the .,t.m of some tribes of Esquimaux to THE ICB. a? i mark tlicir places of sepulture .n this manner. We were then pursuing a north-east course running for Point Burrow, having previously sighted the Sea- Horse Islands, and the various points of coast laid down on the chart. At this time high, indeed, were onr expectations, and ardent our hopes that ere many hours could elapse the dreaded Point Barrow would be rounded in safety. The passage around this well- known and remarkable feature of the coast, had been but recently pronounced impracticable for a ship, by Commander Moore of the ' Plover,' in a published dispatch to the Admiralty, the accuracy of whose observations and judgment we were then about to test. At 1 P.M. the ice was reported from the mast- head, as extending right across our path, but sufficiently loose to sail through. On approaching we found it a stream of floe ice detached from the main pack, but forming an ineffectual barrier to our progress. We entered it with a fine breeze, and a crowd of canvas, and after receiving sundry hard knocks, and inflicting destruction on all the decaying fragments that came within our reach, we again entered clear water, and altered course more to the north yard, following the line of ice. During the remainder of the day, we were sailing through a field of loose ice, but as the breeze had fallen light, our progress had much diminished since the morning. We anxiously looked out for the land, which we had previously lost sight of j towards mid- 88 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. k III !'l mght, It could be discerned from the mast-head: the low Point Barrow far in the distance, but still indistinct from the fog then rising on the eastern horizon. We had on this day felt considerably the effects of the tides or currents, and in clear water streams could be observed well defined by a rippling outhne. The latter appeared to set at times in different directions S.W and N.W., and at 8 p.m. we found it setting steadily to the south at the rate of two miles Jv hour; doubtless influenced much by the physical aspect, not only of the land, but likewise of the numerous projecting points or promontories, and also the mdentations that the widely extended ice pack everywhere presented; between which and the land and through a highly picturesque field of loose ice a light breeze from the westward still bore us along Several Whales (Balc^na Mystketus) and Seals {Phoca Vituhna) were seen during the day, and soundings varied from 14 to 73 fathoms in mud and sand, with broken shells at intervals. Throughout the night we had kept away to the N.N.E. and more off the land, which, early the foUowmg morning, (the 6th) was still faintly discernible Sailing through loose ice with a tide or current at the same time setting us to the northward, with greater force than was observable, we found our- selves by meridian observation in lat 71° 35' N long. 155° 12' W. We were thus farther to the ICE SCENERY. 89 northward of Point Barrow than we intended to go and to our great joy, had successfully rounded this hitherto much dreaded point of coast, the alleged impracticability of which we had then fuUy refuted Ihe 'Investigator' then floated in strange waters where no ship had ever preceded her, and commenced the navigation of a hitherto unknown and unexplored sea. '^ The wind had entirely forsaken us as the day advanced, and we lay becalmed, surrounded on all sides by loose ice, in which there was every probability of our being beset, should a fresh breeze from the south-east not come to our rescue. The position from whence these fears were enter- tained, could scarcely be supposed to have existence m the frigid regions of the north, from the picturesque beauty and loveliness of the scene which then met the eye ; but when I say that ice and water alone contri- buted to form the landscape, it must be equally difficult to fancy that these elements could so closely imitate true lacustrine scenery. We lay with all our canvas set, hanging sluggishly from the yards on the glassy surface of a sheet of watei some two or three miles in diameter, apparently ice-locked. The sun shone forth brilliantly, imparting to us all the delightful warmth of his rays, and to the icy regions in the distance, that peculiar splendour pro- duced by their reflective power in a highly refractive atmosphere. Masses of snow-white ice, in form 00 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. resembling little islands were interspersed around, with intervening spaces of water. Numerous as they were there was light sufficient to display the outline of each as they floated motionless on the surface of the sleeping sea, with the distant and uneven pack all around, form- ing a land-like but ice-locked boundary, resembhng one of our own northern lakes in its wintry garb. There a vivid imagination might readily have taken a flight far from the Polar Sea, in contemplating the icy scene which surrounded us, the novelty of which was only surpassed by its beauty. We were then fairly in the pack, with a sea of loose ice floatmg everywhere around, as far as the eye could reach from the mast-head. It was our object to make the land again if possible, and the obstacles which then presented themselves were of no ordinary nature. A light air had sprung up from the south- ward, that compeUed us to tack to and fro in the narrow channels between the floes. It soon after- wards freshened considerably, and ultimately increased to the force of a moderate gale from the south-east. Our situation then became very critical, as the wind blowing ofi' the land, and aided by currents, brought all the loose floe ice rapidly down on the main body m which there was but too much reason to fea^ we might become beset. We, therefore, took ad- vantage of the breeze, anc' stood on our course to the E.N.E., through heavy, loose fragments, but were soon obliged to t^k to W.S.W, owing to the obstruction 1 1 «l t-3 istm II li A GALE IN THE PACK. 91 Offered by a great field of impenetrable ice, which, to have come m contact with, might have been our destruc tion. We continued working the ship close-hauled, alternately to the N.E. and S. W., endeavouring to make the land, and get clear of the perilous position in which we were placed, from the rapidity with which the ice was then setting down on us. It was quite appalling to observe immense floes coming on towards us, as we sped our way through the narrow channels of water that separated them from each other; some of which were almost magicaUy closed as we approached them by the junction of these ponderous masses, propeUed onward as they were by the united power of wind and currents. It became therefore, a matter of no small consequence, not only to direct the steerage of the ship, but demanded tne utmost alacrity and expertness in working her as the delay of a moment might have been attended with consequences fearful to contemplate. We had the most convincing evidence how formidable was the character of these huge floating masses, and what the result would have been, either of striking them or, stiU worse, of being caught in their embrace! borne fragments it was impossible to avoid, and as the ship struck them from time to time, the shock was tremendous, and vibrated through every timber of her solid framework-even endangering the safety of the masts ; and it was only by an effort, that any one could maintain his equilibrium on deck. Towards midnight 92 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. our satisfaction was great, on finding ourselves in more open water, and in observing the floes less numerous. At this time the loom of land was reported from aloft. The force of the gale had evidently passed. During its continuance, accom- panied with rain and sleet, it imparted an appearance of grandeur and wildness to the scene difficult to conceive; but so perfectly ice-locked were we, and so circumscribed was the area, that it could not exercise its power. Its surface was barely moved by a ripple; and anxiously did we watch for the shghtest . swell of the sea, or heaving of the ship, as evidence of our approaching the open water. In the course of the following morning (the 7th), the wind had quite died away, leaving us again becalmed, and surrounded by heavy ice still drifting to the northward. This was considered favourable, as we hoped to find a greater space of water in shore, and to reach it were making the most strenuous efforts. All our available boats were at once called away to tow— the first time we had recourse to this tedious operation— there being only a few men left on board to work the ship along the narrow and tortuous channels through which we wended our way. All cheerfully lent their aid, wherever it could be available, to facilitate our progress, and free us from our difficulties. The boats were of great service, and never did men work with more zeal or energy. It was quite delight- TOWJNG. 93 ful to see each boat's crew exciting the other to increased exertion, when they saw the slightest ap- pearance of the stroke of the oar being less vigorous than before, by some amusing, jeering observation, generally received with a loud laugh, or a hearty Cheer. Nor were we less occupied on board, it requiring the exercise of all our skiU, not only in the steermg, but m tacking and trimming almost inces- santly to keep clear of the ice, with which, despite our best efforts, we frequently came in contact. We thus continued our slow advance throughout the day when at 8 p.m., the low land of Point Drew became visible to the N.N.E., five miles distant ; and about two hours later, we had cleared the limit of the ice, and joy- fully hailed our return to the coast, between which and the ice there was then a considerable space of water There was now a universal feeling of pleasure expenenced as we found ourselves thus far in an unknown sea, having escaped from the perilous position we had been placed in during the few pre- ceding days ; and as it was the first time we had come m actual conflict with the foe, we had good reason to be pleased with ourselves. It was generally remarked that the character of the ice was much more heavy than that generally met with on the eastern side of the Polar Sea. A few small icebergs were met with, formed in a great measure from packed ice, that seldom exceeded thirty or forty feet in height, floating amongst the floes 94 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. Since rounding Point Barrow the water gained in temperature, but steadily decreased in density, having fallen from 1012 to 1008 in twenty-four hours, as we approached the land; and it had likewise become brackish and discoloured from the admixture of fresh water flowing from the numerous tributary streams along the coast. As the sun touched the icy horizon towards midnight, he presented the most splendid appearance I have ever witnessed, and one on which the naked eye could barely for a moment rest, owing to a dazzling brightness surrounding the disc. It was free from those gorgeous and varied tints I have previously noticed, and now presented one vast sheet of silvery flame, illumining the horizon with a degree of magnificence to be seen in no other region of the world. It is one of those compensating sights icy regions alone can furnish, as the beautiful effect was entirely produced by the reflection of the sun's ray's from its snow-white surface. About one o'clock on the morning of the 8th, having reached within three miles of the shore, the depth of water being then only five fathoms, it was not considered judicious to go much nearer. It was then resolved to record our arrival off" this part of the coast, and erect a landmark on the most promi- nent point. Accordingly, Mr. Court (second master), myself, and the interpreter were despatched in the third whale-boat for this purpose. The morning was cold, clear and fine as we approached the land, ESQUIMAUX. 95 when, about a mile distant, we saw an object which we thought was a beacon, and pulled steadily towards It. Presently a second appeared in sight, and subse- quently a third, which left no doubt on our minds that we were approaching an inhabited land ; but whether these objects were Esquimaux, or some of our lost countrymen, created a feeling of extreme anxiety amongst us, and our men gave way at their oars even more lustily than before, that the question might be speedily solved. This was soon accomplished to our entire satis- faction, by the three figures suddenly taking to flight which left no doubt of their being Esquimaux; we therefore prepared ourselves for this our first meeting with these people, not knowing whether it might assume a friendly or hostile aspect. The poor crea tures still continued their flight, occasionally stopping m evident amazement not only at our approach, but apparently stiU more so at the 'Investigator' in the offing; until, in one of their pauses, we stood up in the boat, and held up our axms-the usual sign of friendly intentions amongst them. We had no sooner done this than they assembled evidently in con- sultation, and answered the signal without delay remaining stationary. ^' We at once landed, and having called out to them words of peace in their own language, we approached ; they timidly met us, and in a few minutes we were rubbmg noses—the customary mode of friendly Sbss SKawaeaa 90 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. salutation with them— about the most filthy race on the face of the globe. We won their hearts by presenting a Httle tobacco, and then commenced conversation. They were cheerful and good humoured, answered questions readily, but could not keep their eyes from the ship, which was to them an object of the greatest wonder. They had no word in their language to express an object of such magnitude, and from seeing her move, thought she was a great living island. From the time of being seen, the ' Investigator' had caused extraordinary consternation amongst the tribe, encamped but a short distance, as they said, from where we were. We could not obtain much satisfactory information regarding the ice, owing to their inability to compute time, and their having no more knowledge of its periods than what is expressed by the cold and hot season j but we understood there would be open water on this part of the coast for two moons. They had seen the boat party from the ' Plover,' the previous year, on its way to the Mackenzie — and this was all the information we could obtain j no other white men had been seen on the coast. Their trade is carried on through another tribe of Esquimaux, with the Indians, who are in direct communication with the Russian Fur Company ; but they had never seen any people like us before. They had only been there a few days, having come a journey of five days duration from the south, as they leave the coast on POINT DREW. 97 SI ould v«u thcr encampment, and offered to procure ZTjTrf """" "'^"^"^ '^"y " -th'the" as one „f them drew a piece from his breast tha to eat " contact with hia skin, and offered it to „ Having ewted a mound, in the centra of which Torth ! "" P™"f ''■"^'' '^ f^^' '» "-^ -"agnotic "orth; a gun from the ship told ns of their impatience » our return, that advantage might be take If a %ht favourable breeze which had then sprung „n We^ade the Esquimaux a friend., adieu, an'd in'vitTd them on board-some of our men again indulged in the. taj for rubbing no.es. evidentifasc-r;; witht' ?T '" "1°" ""' P'^"'<"'t<»y. the soil blue clay wl int "''"P""' ^''P-"'P-'"1 f~- 'en t' , twelve mches aeep; ,t was found frozen about fifteen nehes from the surface. The country appea^d g^Ie with occasional pools of water interspersed over I find a t M ^ ""P' ™ "^^^ ""«='' ^"^P^ed to Esanil u"' """^ ''°'" "'""g^'de, and seve«d Esquimaux on board, both men and women who had arnved d,m„g the period of our absence xley H 98 THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. were a lively party, appeared wonderfully surprised at what they saw. Nothing seemed to excite their admiration so much as the gong which was beaten for their amusement ; and some of them went up the "gging quite fearlessly as if accustomed to it. We distributed presents amongst them consisting of knives, scissors, beads, and tobacco ; they gave us in return a few skins, and some articles of dress, coats, mits, &c.' Bows and arrows, with barbed ivory spears, appeared plentiful, and with that ardent desire for novelty which sailors ever exhibit, they met with ready and liberal purchasers. They took their departure evidently much pleased with their reception, having promised to be friendly to any white men hke ourselves who might visit their country. The baidars appear well adapted from their hghthcas and buoyancy, for river or shallow water navigation, such as the coast presents. They are flat bottomed, constructed something in the form of a yawl, with skins from which the hair has been removed, over a frame work of wood— when this cannot be procured whalebone is substituted. They are in length about twenty-four feet, with a breadth varying from three to four, with seats across as in our 07'n boats. They manage them with much skill and dexterity, and the paddles which are always in the hands of the women, propel them with great celerity through the water. They had not long left us when a second party came alongside to barter, but were much more timid than t i ESQUIMAUX. gg opened, in which ,h t , ''"''" "'"' ■" »n<=e tenacit in :X X ^^w/'^^ ~- "n" presents, and they left T . ""''" """" '»™«J in-p-sed With I': :?:fr;irr '"™™^ evinced nothing whatever „f„7„- n ?""' "" *'^ desire of gain In/!!. ^ ""^'^ "'"^''"- = "le The winTwrvr"!: *° '"""^^^ *"-• ^equently very dl 7. °" P"^'''' '"'» "O"- people who stepped onToldlnr V*' '"" »' if accuston^ed fship vi«iti" "2^"'*'"^ ' " their obiect whi.h , ■ ' *" '"'' evidently Tobacc^td't^teTZTtriTf "^ """"'^ P-ed. It wa, singnirt wi:::'V:t "'"^ r' *% manifested on aU occi /l™; eare to acknowledge on our part thenVhtJ ^ ship— numemii. .„j • '"""Sht of owner- —rr ortheTZ ::r::: t^'^ w purc;rd,'i:is: "" "'"^^ ^"'*^ ^^ a" engaged, and r:ritt\r:~:--- - Whom, I believe, a similar trierrptlri H 2 100 THE NOllTH-WRST PAS8A0F. ultirnntdy it pnsscd into tlic hands of ft third pnrty. Ilnving been thrice sold at more than treble its value, it imd rciiliseil u handsome profit for its owner. The circuinstance was not discovered until the two first pm-chasers came to look for their property, which uftbrdcd nnicli amusement j and the boats having previously left, there was no redress. Indeed, we all required to exorcise the utmost vigilance, os the Esquimaux made every possible attempt furtively to regain what had previously belonged to tliem ; and no doubt could exist as to their strong thievish propensities. The women had their infants with them ; but a casual observer would fail to discover them. Their presence was only revealed to us, when the mother carelessly untied a cord which encircled her waist, allowing something, which we supposed was an article for barter, to slip down her back, and hfting the short jerkin which covered her body, seized it with the right hand, drawing forth by the feet a naked infant; adroitly giving it a turn, she placed it on her knee, and covered its body with a little fur jacket similar to her own. The poor little thing could not have been more than six or eight months old. It never cried in the least at this rough usage, but sat in perfect quietness on its mother's knee ; and how it remained there I could scarcely conceive, for in the eagerness of barter it was entirely unheeded. In due course, the infant was di- vested of its little covering, and placed in its former ■"^^■t KHQUIMAUX WOMEN. jQ^ position, on the, .other's back. tl,o cord tied and J^ToT^r '"'''" "''"•' ™"'™'''' -o-"™ only, nr^^- 1i """"'"''' ""'' •""■^ intelligent ex- proton than we had aeen other, of their se'poss^ . .nallt rT '''^P'''y °f "''-f"'— . conversing "er„ro :L— T'^r^*- ^"'-^ submitted "'^rtainmg the.r stature, they readily Z^T^ { """""""« "'«■»• ^'hich appeared to afford he™ n,„el, „™use,nent. They were fioed on the eh„„ having a vertical line about half an inch broad .« the cent,., extending from the lip, with „ pa^„S namwer one on either side of it, „ lit„e ap^ Ime had two vertical lines protruding from eit'er angle of ofmanud t' "?'"'"'^'»''-g 'he great amount oJ manual labour to wh.eh they are subject, were beau ■fn lly smaU and well-formed-a description Z; «Pl.hcable to their feet, and their teeth, whi e 2 regdar, were displayed to considerable aivl 1 "„ «.earty^aughi„ which they fre,„e„t,;::X" AS these women formed a party of themselves UBaccompanied by men, they' deluded 71' pohteness and gaUantry. We ma