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THE 
 
 BRITISH ASSOCIATION'S VISIT 
 TO MONTREAL, 
 
 1884. 
 
 LETTERS 
 
 BY 
 
 CLARA LADY KAYLEIGH, 
 
 Printed for Private Circulation, 
 
 Ionian : 
 
 PRINTED BY WHITEHEAD, MOEEIS & LOWS. 
 
 9, Pknchubch Steekt, E.C. 
 
 VICTORIA, B. G. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION. 
 
 (Reprinted from The Times, IbS-l). 
 
 It seems early to begin to speak of the arrangements 
 for the next meeting of the British Association, but it is 
 a far cry to Montreal, and a proportionately long start 
 must be made before the final leap is taken. So heartily 
 have the Dominion Government and the Canadian aavanta 
 entered into the preparations that everything is r3ady ; all 
 the presidents, vice-presidents and secretaries of sections 
 have been selected ; all arrangements made with steam- 
 ship companies and American railways ; all excursions 
 have been planned, and all possible routes provided for ; 
 instructions of the most detailed kind have been drawn 
 up for the guidance of members ; nothing has been left, 
 indeed, except what depends on contingencies of time and 
 place, so that Professor Bonney and his legion of officials 
 may at any moment take up their portmanteaus and walk 
 on shipboard. All this forwardness and completeness are 
 largely due to the zeal of the High Commissioner, 
 Sir Charles Tupper, and his energetic and obliging 
 secretary, Mr. Colmer. When the decision was come to 
 at Southampton to hold the meeting of 1884 in Canada 
 there was widely expressed disapproval of the step, and 
 
 A 2 
 
doubt as to its legitimacy ; but the prospect of entertaining 
 the upper thousand of English science has evidently so 
 greatly gratified our Canadian brothers that even the most 
 stiff-necked opponent of the migration must be compelled 
 to give in if he has a shred of goodnature and brotherly 
 feeling loft. There are doubtless a few grumblers who 
 will maintain that the Montreal assembly will not be a 
 meeting of the British Association ; but after all this 
 Imperial Parliament of Science could not be better 
 occupied than in doing something to promote science in 
 one of the most important sections of the British 
 dominions. Indeed, since some maintain that so far as 
 this coui. concerned it has almost ceased to have a 
 
 raison d' light it not extend its functions and 
 
 endeavour to exercise the same effective influence on the 
 promotion of science in other parts of the Empire as it 
 has undoubtedly done in the past in the Mother Country ? 
 It can scarcely hope ever to hold a meeting either in 
 Australia or India, nor even, we fear, in South Africa ; 
 but there are other means which it might adopt more 
 appropriately than any other body to encourage the 
 progress of science in these parts of the Empire, and 
 make accessible to the public interested in it the good 
 work which is being done, at least in some of the 
 Australian colonies. In Canada itself there are several 
 important scientific societies; but so far as we know, 
 they have no common bond of union. Seeing that there 
 is already an efficient American Association, we should not 
 advocate the formation of a separate Canadian body ; but 
 possibly the Montreal meeting might be able to do some- 
 thing to federalise the separate Canadian societies. We 
 suggested some years ago that the Association might do 
 such a service to the jiumerous local societies in this 
 country, and we are glad to know that the suggestion has 
 
borne fruit, and that already a real advance has been 
 made in this direction. 
 
 But whatever may be the results of the Montreal 
 meeting, it is clear from the programme which has been 
 drawn up that everything possible is being done to render 
 the occasion one of genuine enjoyment to all who are 
 fortunate enough to be present. The Canadian Parliament 
 has voted so handsome a sum for the entertainment of the 
 Association that its expenses are likely to be less than at 
 an ordinary meo<.i;;. Provision has been made for free 
 passages and free living for fifty of the officials, who need 
 not spend a penny from the time they set foot upon the 
 steamer until they step ashore a^T^in upon their native 
 land. Not only so, but a sum of $14,000 has been 
 allotted for the reduction of members' passages to Canada 
 in addition to any abatement of fares allowed by the 
 steamship companies. The most important of these 
 companies, sailing not only to Quebec and Montreal, but 
 to New York and Newport, offer reductions averaging 
 about 10 per cent, on the ordinary fares. The companies 
 who offer these advantages are the Allan, the Dominion, 
 the Beaver, White Star, Cunard, National, Anchor, Guion, 
 Inman, Monarch, and Union lines ; so that intending 
 visitors have ample choice of route. On the other side, 
 again, all the railway companies have shown the greatest 
 liberality. The Government railways are free to all who 
 produce members' vouchers. The Canada Pacific Line 
 will from July 1 up to the date of the departure of the 
 special free excursion to the Rocky Mountains, grant to 
 visiting members free passes over its lines to the northward 
 (Rocky Mountains, Lake Superior, &c.) and intermediate 
 points. This company also offers to one hundred and fifty 
 members of the Association a free special excursion to the 
 Rocky Mountains, by way of Georgian Bay, Thursday Bay, 
 
and Winnipeg, providing that those places passed during 
 the night on the outward journey will be repassed during the 
 day on the return. The only thing members will have to 
 pay for will be meals, which will be provided at a rate not 
 exceeding 2s. Arrangements, moreover, will be made for 
 trips and excursions from Toronto, across Lake Ontario to 
 Niagara, under the direction of local committees to be 
 formed in both places, giving to all members an opportunity 
 of visiting the Falls. Various other excursions have been 
 liberally arranged for by the company, so that visitors 
 will have ample opportunity of seeing most that is worth 
 seeing in Canada for practically nothing. The Canada 
 Atlantic Railway has also arranged for several free 
 excursions, while the Grand Trunk, the North Shore, the 
 Central Vermont, and other railways in the States offer 
 tickets to members at something like half the usiial rates ; 
 thus those who proceed to New York may visit various 
 parts of the States before proceeding northwards to 
 Canada at extremely cheap rates. At all the Canadian 
 cities to be visited local committees will be organized to 
 receive the excursionists and to care for them during their 
 stay. The circular prepared for the members gives every 
 information as to routes, distances, fares, &c., so that they 
 may make all their arrangements before leaving England. 
 The telegraph companies, not to lie behindhand, undertake 
 to transmit messages during the meeting for members 
 from Montreal to all parts of Canada and the United 
 States free of charge. 
 
 Of course, it is not to be expected that all those ad- 
 vantages will be given indiscriminately to all who may 
 apply, and doubtless the great accession of members at 
 the Southport meeting was partly due to the prospective 
 visit to Canada. But only those members elected at or 
 before the Southampton meeting will share in the benefit 
 
ii 
 
 of the $14,000 allotted fov reduction of passage money, 
 and until further notice no new members or associates 
 can be elected except by special vote of the Council. 
 This is as it should be, otherwise the meeting would be 
 largely one of mere " trippers," instead of genuine repre- 
 sentatives of British science. The Council have taken 
 every precaution to render the Montreal Meeting one of 
 real work, and no mere holiday; from respect to itself 
 as well as to its hosts, the Association is bound to show 
 itself at its best. At the same time, the Council have 
 extended all the privileges of associates to the near rela- 
 tives of members to the number of three for each, so 
 that members will have no excuse for doing Canada en 
 garfon. Of course those applying for the privileges 
 mentioned must produce satisfactory evidence of their 
 identity, and in return will receive vouchers which will 
 serve as passports on the other side. Those desirous of 
 obtaining information as to hotels and other local matters, 
 must apply to the local secretary, core or Mr. S. C. 
 Stevenson, 181, St. James's Street, Montreal. 
 
 Already somewhere about six hundred applications have 
 been received, and it is quite probable that at least one 
 thousand members and associates may be crowding across 
 next August. Those members who wish to share in the 
 subsidy of $14,000 must apply before March 25, and no 
 voucher will be issued after July 20. We may say that 
 the reduced railway fares mainly extend from August 1 
 to the end of September. The active and coui'teous 
 secretary, Professor Bonney, on whom so much depends, 
 will arrive in Montreal three weeks before the opening 
 of the meeting, August 27, for the purpose of securing 
 that everything is in train. It is expected that all the 
 addresses will be printed here in time for transmission 
 to Montreal. 
 
8 
 
 So far at least as the officials are concerned, the Canada 
 Meeting will be a represei.tative one. The President 
 elect, Lord Rayleigh, one of the most solid exponents 
 of British science, will certainly prove equal to the occa- 
 sion. The vice-presidents show a large Transatlantic 
 contingent ; they are, his Excellency the Governor-Gene- 
 ral, Sir John A. Macdonald, Sir Lyon Playfair, Sir 
 Alexander Gait, Sir Charier Tapper, Sir Narcisse Dorion, 
 Hon. Dr. Chauveau, Principal Dawson, Professor Frank- 
 land, Dr. L. H. Hingston, and Professor Sterry Hunt. 
 Sir Joseph Hooker, we may say, has also been nominated 
 by the Council a vice-president, in place of the late Sir 
 0. W. Siemens. Perhaps it is scarcely necessary to state 
 that the general treasurer. Professor A. W. Williamson, 
 and the general secretaries. Captain Douglas Gal ton and 
 Mr. A. G. Vernon Harcourt, will be present. There are 
 five local secretaries and a local treasurer. The presi- 
 dents of the sections are all men of the highest standing 
 in their particular departments ; it would be difficult, 
 indeed, to suggest a better selection. In Section A, 
 Mathematical and Physical Science, it is a great thing 
 that Professor Sir William Thomson has been persuaded 
 to preside. No more representative chemist than Pro- 
 fessor Roscoe could have been obtained for Section B; 
 in C, Geology, Mr. W. T. Blanford, the head of the 
 Indian Geological Survey, is sure to do honour to his 
 subject ; in Section D, Biology, Professor Moseley, a man 
 of thoroughly Darwinian type of mind, will preside ; 
 in F, Economic Science, Sir Richard Temple will be a 
 host in himself; while in G, Mechanical Science, Sir 
 F J. Bramwell is sure to be vigorous and original ; 
 finally, in the new section H, Anthropology, Dr. E. B. 
 Tylor is the very man that ought to have been selected. 
 Lord Aberdare, we regret to say, has been compelled to 
 
retire from the presidency of the Geographical Section j 
 but for a Canadian meeting no more suitable president 
 could be obtained than the veteran Arctic explorer, Sir 
 Leopold M'Clintock, who, we trust, will be persuaded to 
 to take the place of Lord A.berdare. All the vice-presi- 
 dents and secretaries of sections have been chosen with 
 equal care ; and thus the Association has taken the very 
 best means of proving to the Canadians how highly they 
 appreciate the honour of the invitation, and in what 
 respect they hold their prospective audiences. Tor the 
 public lectures, the popular feature of the meetings, it is 
 hoped to secure the services of Professor W. G. Adams, 
 the able Professor of Physics in King's College, London, 
 who it is hoped will be able to go; Dr. Dallinger, the 
 well-known biologist, and Professor Ball, tht witty and 
 eloquent Astronomer Royal for Ireland, who will deliver 
 the popular lecture par excellence. 
 
 Thus it will be seen that every possible arrangement 
 has been made that could be made beforehand to insure 
 complete success, and there can be little doubt that neither 
 the Associa,tion nor the Ciinadians will be disappointed. 
 Section A is following the example set last year in Section 
 D by Professor Ray Lankester. The Committee, as we 
 have already announced, are sending out a circular 
 inviting mathematicians and physicists to co- operate with 
 them in sustaining discussions and contributing papers ; 
 one of the special subjects for discussion in this section 
 on September 1st will be the vexed one of the connection 
 between sun spots and terrestrial phenomena. In con- 
 clusion we may say that the American Association will 
 meet in Philadelphia on September 3rd, and those who 
 have not had enough of science at Montreal can enjoy 
 another week of it at the Quaker City. The Philadelphia 
 Committee have sent a cordial invitation to the members 
 
10 
 
 of the British Association to attend their meetings, 
 cITeriiig to do the utmost in their power to make the visit 
 at once pleasant and profitable. This will be a red letter 
 year in the history of both Associations. 
 
 Setter ilo. 1. 
 
 Thursday, Avqust 2\st, 1884 ; on hoard " Parisian," — 
 getting near Newfoundland. 
 
 My beloved Mother. — I sent you some lines from 
 the train on Saturday 16th, and a card to Clai'a after we 
 arrived on board. This is a capital ship, and lucky for us 
 it is so, for we have had a regular gale. I little thought 
 it was possible that I should dislike any sea as I do this 
 Atlantic ! It has been dreadful weather — grey in the 
 clouds above and waters beneath, and blowing hard, 
 without anything to brighten the vast waste of waters, 
 and I have heartily wished myself away from it. This 
 truly humiliating state of things will cause you to 
 triumph over me, no doubt ! I became uncomfortable 
 and headachy and could do nothing, nor bear to stay in 
 the saloon, and the drawing room, such as it is, is taken 
 possession of by the men, who lay themselves down full 
 length on the seats and leave no room for any ladies, so 
 I have stayed in my cabin. Dr. Protheroe Smith has been 
 quite a comfort to me. He is such a good man, and so 
 pleasant, and has given me things to read, and relates 
 intex'esting medical and religious experiences. While I 
 
11 
 
 wi'ite, an enormous wave has dashed against my port light 
 and given me a flash of darkness ! Hedley has been rather 
 ill, but has never quite lost bis appetite. Gibson and the 
 two others have held out well. Evelyn has been in her 
 berth -. 'nee Monday, when it began to blow, but she has 
 not beexi really ill. John and Dick have braved the storm 
 on deck, 8,nd say the sight of the waves from the stern 
 was magnificent, but I don't care for this kind of awful 
 uncomfortable magnificence, which makes me feel a 
 miserable shrimp, whose fate it is to be swallowed up by 
 these raging waves, and who well deserves it. So I oiily 
 made a feeble attempt to get to the deck on Monday, and 
 was glad to leave it in half an hour when it rained. I 
 went down to the drawing room to look at some men 
 playing chess, but as the others stared at me as if 1 had 
 no right to be there, and the motion was very bad, I had 
 soon to leave ignominiously. Mr. Barrett has entertained 
 me with some ghost stories, well authenticated and printed 
 for private circulation. I have begun writing this to-day 
 because there seems some chance of posting it on Saturday 
 or Sunday, when Sir Leonard and Lady Tilley and two 
 sous are to be landed at New Brunswick as we pass down 
 the Straits of Belle Isle, I think. I shall not see your 
 birth-place as we shall be too far off. 
 
 Friday, 22nd. — I went upon deck after breakfast in a 
 great hurry to see an iceberg. I was greeted with 
 great kindness by every one after my three days' seclusion, 
 and thoroughly enjoyed the day and the ocean for the 
 first time. It was very cold but clear and sparkling, and 
 there was no motion to speak of ; after the gale, and the 
 great hills antl valleys of the Atlantic roll in a storm, it 
 seemed impossible it could be so smooth ; but we are to 
 have every experience of weather, as a fog came on and 
 WG steamed very slowly and blew fog signals for an hour ! 
 
12 
 
 However, the sun broke forth and lifted the curtain of fog, 
 and within a quarter of a mile we saw a beautiful 
 iceberg twelve or fifteen hundred feet deep, they said, and ho 
 beautiful in its ultra marine colouring. The shape was 
 like a village church somewhat in ruins. Miss Fox, a 
 sister of Caroline Fox, is on board and sketched the 
 icebergs and the waves during the storm very cleverly. 
 They were also photographed by Mr. Barrett and a 
 professional. After dinner we were all on deck again and 
 watched for the lights on the coast of Labrador, which 
 mark the entrance into the Straits of Belle Isle, and at 
 last a twinkle caught my eye and we all greeted it with 
 joy ! Isn't it wonderful that a ship can be steered across 
 that vast expanse of water straight to this light, in spite 
 of clouds and storms and without the sight of sun or 
 moon or stars ? If I was teaching a class I should quote 
 this as a good illustration of " God's mysterious ways." 
 We wander on through all the changes and chances of 
 this mortal life, and we don't know the why, or when, or 
 where, but at last we see the lights of heaven looming on 
 our horizon and are at the haven where we would be. 
 Then we realize that all the time He was guiding us by 
 ways that we knew not I In the evening we heard an 
 auction amusingly carried on, though I did not approve 
 of the gambling connected with it ; and then Mr. Barrett 
 gave a short account of apparitions, aud there was a 
 discussion. 
 
 I am now writing after breakfast on Saturday and 
 we expect to reach Quebec on Sunday night. It will 
 be a dreadful disappointment if we don t see the first 
 view, which is so fine, by daylight. We entered the Gulf 
 of St. Lawrence last night (Friday). I give you a list of 
 our saloon fellow passengers and you will see that I knew 
 a good many of them before. 
 
13 
 
 List of Saloon Passengers per S.S. " Parisian," (Captain 
 James Wylib,) ior Quebec, August 16th, 1884. 
 
 Mr. H. Alabaster 
 
 Mr A. H. Allen 
 
 Dr. J. T. Arlidgo 
 
 Mr. Atchison 
 
 Mr. B. Baker 
 
 Major E. Bancs 
 
 Miss Barlow 
 
 Mr. W. P. Barrett 
 
 Dr. Beamiflh 
 
 Mr. G. Belyea 
 
 Mr. G. W. Bloxam 
 
 Miss Bodman 
 
 Dr. H. Boms 
 
 Mr. Stephen Bourne 
 
 Miss E. E. Bourne 
 
 Miss E. M. Bourne 
 
 Mr. A. H. Bradley 
 
 Sir Frederick Bramwell 
 
 Mr. R. G. Brook 
 
 Mr. Bobert Capper 
 
 Mrs. Capper 
 
 Mr. G. 0. Chatterton 
 
 Mr. W. H. Clemmey 
 
 Mr. C. Cooke 
 
 Mrs. Cooper 
 
 Miss Cooper 
 
 Mr. F. B. C. Costelloe 
 
 Mr. Crampton 
 
 Mrs. Crampton 
 
 Mr. Crookshank 
 
 Mr. "W. C. Davy 
 
 Miss Daw 
 
 Mr. W. Boyd Dawkins 
 
 Mr. Thomas Denman 
 
 Prof. Dewar 
 
 Mrs. Dewar 
 
 Mr. G. E. Dobson 
 
 Mr. R. Edminson 
 
 Mr. E. Fam worth 
 
 Mr. J. Fewings 
 
 Prof. G. Forbes 
 
 Mr. R. Formby 
 
 Mr. C. Le Neve Poster 
 
 Mr. Howard Pox 
 
 Mies Fox 
 
 Prof. Prcam 
 
 Hon. C. "W. Fremantle 
 
 Capt. Douglas Galton 
 
 Mr. John L. Garsed 
 
 Dr. J. H. Gilbert 
 
 Mrs. Gilbert 
 
 Mr. J. H. Gladstone 
 
 Miss Gladstone 
 
 Miss Gladstone 
 
 Miss Gladstone 
 
 Mr. J. H. Glover 
 
 Mr. A. G. Greenhill 
 
 Mr. Egbert de Hamel 
 
 Mr. N. C. Hardoastle 
 
 Mr. B. W. Hardoastle 
 
 Dr. G. Harley 
 
 Mr. N. B. Harley 
 
 Miss Harris 
 
 Mr. R. T. Herford 
 
 Miss A. 0. Herford 
 
 Mr. Homiman 
 
 Mr. W. Hurst 
 
 Mr. John Jones 
 
 Rev. Harry Jones 
 
 Mr. George Oliver Jones 
 
 Miss Fanny Jones 
 
 Mr. R. H. Jones 
 
14 
 
 Hon. Mrs, Joyce 
 
 Rev. A. Or. Jojoe 
 
 Mr. Simeon Kaye 
 
 Mr. J. W. Leahy 
 
 Mr. B. T. Leech 
 
 Mrs. Leech 
 
 General Sir J. H. Lefroy, 
 
 K.C.M.G. 
 Lady Lefroy, 
 
 and Maid 
 Mr. James A. Love 
 Mr. William Lukes 
 Mr. W. Macandrew 
 Mr. G. Mackay 
 Mr. U. Mackay 
 Mr. Harry Mackeson 
 Mr. James Mackrell 
 Mr. Samuel Marsden 
 Mr. James Mactear 
 Mr. W. P. Marshall 
 Dr. W. R. MoNab 
 Mr. 0. T. Mitchell 
 Mr. W. J. Muirhead 
 Mr. Hugo M. Miiller 
 Mr. E. K. Muspratt 
 Miss J. Muspratt 
 Mr. J. S. O'Halloran 
 Admiral Sir B. Ommanney 
 Mr. W. H. Perkin 
 Mr. W. H. Pe-i-in, Jun. 
 Mr. L. G. Pike 
 Mr. Benjamin Pilling 
 Mr. John Pilling 
 Mrs. Pilling 
 Mr. John Powell 
 Mr. W. H. Preece 
 Mr. P. Price 
 Mrs. Price 
 Lord Rayleigh 
 Lady Rayleigh 
 
 Clara Lady Rayleigh, 
 
 and Maid 
 Mr. J. B. Roadman 
 Mr. A. W. Reinold 
 Mr, C. Richardson 
 Mr. R. Richardson 
 Mrs. Richardson 
 Mr. A. Rigg 
 Mr. A. F. Riddell 
 Mrs. Riddell 
 Rev. J. Robberds 
 Prof. W. Chandler Roberts 
 Mrs. Roberts 
 Mr. G. H. Robertson 
 Mrs. Robertson 
 Canon Rogers 
 Mr. W. Rogers 
 Earl of Rosse 
 Mr. P. L. Solater 
 Mr. "W. L. Sclater 
 Mr. Sydney C. Scott 
 Mr. A. Sedgwick 
 Prof. H. S. Hele Shaw 
 Prof. J. P. Sheldon 
 Mr. George Smith 
 Dr. P. Smith 
 Dr. H. Smith 
 Prof. W. J. Sollas 
 Mr. E. Sollas 
 Mr. Sowden 
 Mr. A. Sowden 
 Dr. W. D. Spanton 
 Mr. Russell Stephenson 
 Mr. T. H. Stockwell 
 Hon. R. Strutt 
 Hon. H. V. Strutt 
 Mr. A. Summers 
 Mr. R. W. Cooke-Taylor 
 Mrs. Cooke-Taylor 
 Mr. T. H. Thomas 
 
15 
 
 Dr. Alex. S. Thomson 
 
 Mr. William Thomson 
 
 Mr. W. J. Thomson 
 
 Dr. H. G. Thompson 
 
 Sir Leonard Tilley, K.C.M.G., 
 
 C.B. 
 Lady Tilley 
 Master Herbert Tilley 
 Master Leonard Tilley 
 Mr. W. Topley 
 Mr. W, Tribe 
 Mr. G. S. Turner 
 Capt. H. S. Walker 
 Mrs. Walker 
 Mr. Ward 
 Miss Ward 
 Mr. C. A. Wella 
 
 Rev. B. Wells 
 
 Mr. Westgarth 
 
 Mrs. Westgarth 
 
 Miss Westgarth 
 
 Mr. W. Whitaker 
 
 Miss E. H. Williamson 
 
 Mr. E. S. Williams 
 
 Miss Wilson 
 
 Rev. H. H. Winwood 
 
 Mr. Alfred Wood 
 
 Mrs. Wood 
 
 Mr. H. T. Wood 
 
 Mr. A. W. Worthington 
 
 Miss Worthington 
 
 Mr. T. Wrightson 
 
 Mr. F. York 
 
 Mrs. York 
 
 This afternoon was very dull and grey. I played 
 a game of four chess, and there was a concert in 
 the evening, — every two or three minutes broken in 
 upon by the roar of a wild beast called the fog horn. 
 It was very funny to hear the apropos way it 
 came in when Canon Rogers was reciting Hiawatha. 
 
 " Minnihaha said " then a roar ! One of the party read 
 
 a paper, and a really witty burlesque on this supposed wild 
 beast and its anatomy. John is so well and, I think, very 
 popular : Evelyn is a much better sailor than one 
 anticipated. Captain Douglas Galton told me John's 
 address was admirable, but I would not read it, as I want 
 to judge of it as others will, when it is delivered. I have 
 had no whist ! think of that — at first people were too ill, 
 and then so much on deck, and they play in the smoking 
 room, I hear, and perhaps gamble for higher stakes than I 
 like ! — which perhaps you will say is not surprising as I 
 never play for anything. 
 
16 
 
 Sunday, A ugust 24,th. — We have had a bright but cold 
 day and brisk wind — in fact I have felt colder than when 
 the icebergs were round us ! We had service in the 
 morning — Mr. Joyce read prayers and Canon Rogers 
 preached ; and at three we had the excitement of seeing 
 Sir Leonard and Lady Tilley, and two sons, with innumer- 
 able packages, taken off in a tug to New Brunswick — 
 Rimouski was the name of the town, and the still greater 
 excitement followed of receiving from it the Secretary of the 
 Lodging Committee at Montreal, who brought quantities of 
 letters, papers, &c. I had a letter from Mr. Angus, asking 
 me and a son to stay with them during our visit to Monti'eal, 
 and it is close to where Dick is invited (Mr. and Mrs. 
 
 McClennan's) , and near John and E . I also heard from 
 
 Mr. Dobell, very kindly offering his house and carriage 
 for my use while at Quebec ; he and his family are away 
 camping in the woods. You never saw a scene of greater 
 excitement than the appearance of t' e saloon when the 
 President opened the parcel containing letters, newspapers, 
 and telegrams, after a week's total abstinence from all 
 news ; everyone seized upon their respective letters, &c., 
 with eagerness ; the only person who did not look happy 
 was John, for he found the arrangements made would be 
 too much for him, and he and Captain Galton set them- 
 selves to try and alter them, in which I hope they will 
 succeed. The Secretary sat opposite me at dinner, and 
 told me how anxious they all were to make everything 
 comfortable for us. It is doubtful whether we stay at 
 Quebec to-morrow night, or go on to Montreal at once, 
 as there is to be an excursion on Triday next to 
 Quebec, and grand reception, and picnic or garden party 
 on the following day. If you find a difficulty in reading 
 the indelible pencil, tell me ; it is more convenient to use 
 travelling. We had an interesting conference on prayer 
 
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17 
 
 this afternoon (Sunday), and I have just returned from 
 another smaller one. A scientific man asked questions as 
 to whether we could prove answers to prayer woiild be 
 given ior physical blessings, or what we consider such ; or 
 whether prayer was only a sentiment (as Tyndal thinks) ? 
 Professor Barrett and a dear old clergyman, Canon 
 Rogers (who, in my ignorance, I had thought, at first, 
 was a " dry stick ") argued the matter with him, and also 
 Dr. P. Smith and his son, and Miss Pox and I said a few 
 words. Now, about nine o'clock, they are all singing 
 hymns, very much out of tune. I must finish this up 
 now for it must be posted to-morrow, or may miss the 
 mail on Tuesday. I have thoroughly enjoyed the last three 
 days, and am almost sorry the voyage is over, and so, I 
 think, are many of my fellow passengers. Some of them 
 are very good and nice. Miss Pox is delightful — upwards 
 of eighty, and yet so full of interest in everything good and 
 beautiful ; she is like a piece cut out of the old past, and 
 a very wonderful old fossil, full of energy and cleverness. 
 Hedley desires his love, and is very well and hapjjy. We 
 go to 240, Drummond Street, Montreal, on Monday or 
 
 Tuesday, Dick in same street, and John and E near. 
 
 Gibson has never been ill at all ! Good-bye, now, and God 
 bless you all, darling Mother, and everyone dear to me at 
 home. Two or three times during the gale, Hedley and I 
 said to each other, " How nice it would be to be sitting 
 
 with you at No. 90, G ." — but now we have not 
 
 that desire ! Prom your loving child, — 0. R. 
 
18 
 
 Tuesday, August 26th, Beavoir, Quebec, 
 
 My first letter was brought up to 24th. I forgot to 
 tell you then of an interesting discussion with a clever and 
 
 honest infidel, Mr. X . Through (who had told me 
 
 about him), T had lent him " Natural Law," and (seeing him 
 standing about looking, I thought, rather sad as we were 
 all singing " Rock of Ages, cleft for me ") I asked him his 
 opinion of the book, and he said " on Mr. D.'s assumption 
 of the existence of a Personal God, it is very clever, and 
 with your views I would certainly circulate it." Of 
 course, I could not argue with a man well armed at all 
 points for attack (as these infidels generally are), though 
 they are weak enough at defence, their explanations of 
 life's mysteries being as unsatisfactory and vague as that 
 of any ignorant Bible woman ; and so when others joined 
 us I gave way, and he said as a crusher — " I see you are a 
 very sincere and conscientious lady, but you are very 
 fanatical." I replied, as my parting shot, "Well, of 
 course, I cannot do justice to my cause, but at any rate 
 you have nothing to offer me ; convince me and others, if 
 you can, that we are wrong (and thank God we have a 
 noble army on our side), what have you to give us in 
 the place of our beliefs? Nothing! a me negation." 
 He answered — " What have you to give me . ' " Oh," I 
 replied, "a mere nothing, only peace and power for 
 holiness now and a glorious hope for the future, and so 
 (shaking hands) good bye." I could scarcely speak to 
 him for crying, for it was so painful to hear his words 
 .ibout our Blessed Saviour. After our discussion on 
 prayer in the back cabin, a young man who was there and 
 who was sitting near me while I was writing to you, 
 iie^'iui to talk it over. " Well," T said, "the best answer 
 
19 
 
 to those objections about prayer that I know, ia to try It, 
 and then I am sure no arguments will then shake your 
 confidence that there ' - a God who heareth and answereth 
 prayer." It is like our Lord's cure of the blind man, 
 " JTow did He do it? " they ask, and ask in vain for any 
 explanation which could be understood, but the man says 
 ■' I don't know, but whereas I was blind, now I see," and 
 the Pharisees beat themselves to pieces against that 
 rock. You may imagfine I went to my berth heartily 
 tired after the excitement of this long day. 
 
 Monday, 26th. — I got up at six and rushed on deck, 
 and with a lovely clear sky and shining sun and a brisk 
 breeze, I found we were steaming along the river 
 St. Lawrence. We devoured with our eyes the beautiful 
 views on each side, mountains of blue and violet, wooded 
 to their summits, and Canadian villages nestling n'- t'leir 
 feet on the banks of the river, with glittering spires of 
 hlanche fer every seven miles, like tall milestones, and 
 then we reached the entrance tc Quebec, which is indeed 
 magnificent! the splendid water-way, with the fine 
 position of Quebec, makes it a grand sight, and I was not 
 disappointed ; and the clear and brilliant morning sun- 
 shine showed us all to perfection. Then came 8uch a scene 
 of hurry and confusion, — but we were favored : Captain 
 R. Stephenson, the Governor-General's A.D.C., who had 
 been our fellow passenger, received instructions from him, 
 and we were conveyed in a police steamboat to the other 
 side — to the Citadel ; there was also a letter from Lord 
 
 Lansdowne to John, asking him and E and any of 
 
 his party to breakfabt, brought by Captain Streatfield, 
 another A.D.C. Our maids and luggage were left in 
 charge of the police at their wharf station. On reaching 
 the wharf a carriage conveyed us to the Citadel, — such a 
 drive, up the side of a house ! over a great many bonlderx. 
 
 B 2 
 
20 
 
 A curious old town is Quebec — thoroughly like a French 
 town, with French spoken everywhere, and French dirt 
 and air of poverty and untidiness, as in the remoter and 
 older towns of France. 
 
 Lord and Lady Lansdowne received us most kindly, and 
 besides there was Lady Florence Anson (her neice, who is 
 engaged to Captain Streatfield), Lady Melgund, whose 
 husband is away in Ottawa looking after canoe men for 
 Egypt, and a young Mr. Anson, A.D.C. After seeing the 
 view from the balcony — a splendid panorama of Quebec 
 and the liver St. Lawrence, witl its tributary St. Charles, 
 and the surrounding country backed by blue mountains, 
 we went in to our second breakfast, and much we enjoyed 
 our tea. Lord Lansdowne sat next me and was very 
 
 pleasant. Afterwards he asked John and E and me 
 
 and the boys to dine, apologising for not asking us all to 
 sleep there, on the grounds of not having room, which is 
 true enough, for the house is not large. I thought it best to 
 decline for myself and two sons, as I was going with them 
 for the night to this place (Mr. Dobell's), four miles away. 
 Then came a Secretary of the Local Comroiitec to discuss 
 arrangements with John, and alter the programme some- 
 what for next Friday and Saturday, when we are expected 
 to revisit Quebec. 
 
 John is much afraid that the long list of engagements 
 will bring on his rhuematism and knock him up for the real 
 business in Montreal, After this we had the carriage and 
 
 drove in state to the hotel where John and E were to 
 
 sleep, arranged about our berths on the steamer for 
 Montreal, saw numbers of our fellow-passengers who had 
 not gone to Montreal, and drove to the wharf and only 
 brought a little 1 ggage to come here with. They told 
 me I should not want umbrellas (" Our climate here is 
 very different from yours," said they), nor wraps, but I 
 
)r 
 
 Id 
 
 IS 
 
21 
 
 persisted in bringing a few, fortunately, for it has been 
 pouring all night and up to this time (twelve o'clock 
 Wednesday), and it was so cold besides. While at the 
 hotel (I forgot to mention that) a card was handed to me 
 with Mr. Price's name on it. I could not think who he 
 
 was, but he soon came and mentioned Capt. F (Julia 
 
 Spicer'd son-in-law), and then I remembered he had 
 promised +o mention us to the Prices. He offered to 
 drive one of the ladies in his buggy to his house near the 
 
 7jIo/.tmerenci Falls, where we were all to lunch, and E 
 
 went in it, and the rest of us drove in another carriage 
 to his place, about five miles off. The drive was delightful 
 aud his cottage a picture — a little, fat, fair motherly woman 
 for a wife, with two little chicks, and a lady friend. Thoy 
 took us down some steps to the Falls, the river Mont- 
 merenci falling 500 feet, and it was very fine, the view 
 being improved by the figures of our fellow-passengers on 
 the opposite side making struggling efforts to gain good 
 positions, which we achieved in all ease and comfort. 
 Then v 3 ivturned to an excellent luncheon, very pleasantly 
 divei. iM^l to us by Indian corn, which we learned to 
 eft* 'I'l ungraceful but excellent fashion on the cob, 
 b-i. • r ;^- J \it and cream. This was our third substantial 
 meai • ' .i »sday. Several visitors called, and among 
 them oui' If '')w- passengers, Mr. Stephen Bourne and his 
 daughters and two friends, who are also staying here, a 
 gentleman with three other ladies (two of whom had been 
 on the " Parisian ) who said he had been staying lately 
 with one of them in Cheshire, so I concluded he was an 
 English-Canadian and said heartily : " That's right, keep 
 np with the old country ! You come to see us and we 
 < • ne to see you." And ho responded graciously, but I 
 ■1 rd after that he was a French-Canadian and R. C, and 
 they aie not fond of England, but cling vory much to 
 
22 
 
 French ways and customs and are entirely in the hands of 
 their priests. They are a quiet, moral people, marry very 
 young and have very large families. It is quite common 
 to have ten children, and they live at what we should call 
 a starvation rate ; \ j ■^^p'- will not go to service, con- 
 tribute hardly anythiu^ t revenue, and so the English, 
 who are the only active id money-making section of 
 the population, are heavily taxed; of course I speak 
 of the poor and working classes. The province of 
 Quebec is, therefore, not a favourite one with enterprising 
 spirits from our shores or from other parts of Canada. 
 After these visitors were gone, Mi*. Price drove me and 
 
 E , and the rest walked, to the "Natural Steps." It was 
 
 a beautiful spot, the clear torrent of the river Montmerenci 
 falling in cascades over a curious formation of layers of 
 stone and steps on either side, with the bright green arbor 
 vitce, which they call cedar, growing above and in every 
 niche it can find a bit of soil ; wild raspbenies and straw- 
 berries too, which, alas, were over. We met several of our 
 fellow-passengers, and we greet one another like long-lost 
 friends. On our return we found Mrs. Price had cuddled 
 her ailing boy to sleep and could give us some attention. 
 We had delicious tea and cake {owe fourth meal!). 
 Mr. Price comes from Eoss, in Herefordshire, and has 
 been twelve years away from it. He is very nice and 
 intelligent. Her brother owns the Falls and lives in a 
 pretty cottage near. Edison, the electric light inventor, 
 has bought the power of these falls for electric purposes. 
 John was thinking all the time how useful they might be 
 
 made. We returned to the hotel in time for John and E 
 
 to dress for the Governor-General's dinner party. We took a 
 little baggage and Gibson and came here — a dark drive, and 
 we were shaken to bits in what is justly called a rockaway 
 carriage. We were met at the door by Mr. Dobell, much 
 
28 
 
 to ouv surprise, for he and his family had returned 
 unexpectedly from camping out, as it proved a failure, 
 and rushed home to receive us. She is handsome, and 
 quite English in tone and manner, daughter of the Minister 
 of the Interior, Sir David Macpherson. Mr. Dobell is 
 very bright and pleasant-looking, the house pretty atid 
 comfortable, with large conservatory. We had a tremen- 
 dous supper (our fifth meal !) and so I could hardly do 
 justice to it. I went to bed very tired after this hard 
 day's work, and awoke this morning to find it pouring, so 
 I have been taking advantage of the quiet to write to you. 
 Dick and Mr. Dobell went to Quebec, and we follow at 
 three. They hope to have some organ-playing in the 
 Cathedral. Mr. S. Bourne and his young ladies are also 
 gone, and we are to leave at three and start at five in the 
 river steamboat for Montreal. Tell Edward and Lisa, 
 &c., &c., about us. We all thoroughly enjoyed everything 
 yesterday except that we wanted warmer clothes. They 
 had tremendous heat here before we arrived, and so every 
 one was advising us to wear light clothing! — and the 
 weather changed ! 
 
 fetter iTo. 3. 
 
 August 29th, 240, Drwmmond Street, Montreal. 
 
 We left the hospitable Dobells on Tuesday, 26th, took our 
 luggage from the police station, receiving many bows and 
 much politeness from the several Canadians in charge and, 
 with about one thousand others, besides soldiers, went on 
 board a very large steamer — a new experience, for these river 
 
24 
 
 steamers are quite different from anything we see on this 
 side, even I think, on the Rhine, — the Lansdownes were 
 in it and we saw something of them. An uncomfortable 
 night, and were glad to reach this, Wednesday morn- 
 ing, at about eight o'clock. Such a mass of luggage and 
 people, but as Mr. Angus kindly sent a carriage and man 
 to meet us, I did very well and arrived safely with all 
 mine. 
 
 I drove with Hedley and Miss Angus in the afternoon 
 (there are four grown-up young ladies) and finally got 
 out at the Queen's HaU, where the Mayor read an address 
 in French, and after Sir William Thomson had spoken, 
 John said a few words. There was a great crowd here, 
 and we sang " God Save the Queen " with enthusiasm. We 
 dined at half -past six and afterwards the two Misses Angus 
 and Hedley and I drove to the Hall. 
 
 Lord and Lady Lansdowne sat on the platform, and 
 after a nice speech from him, Sir William Thomson 
 introduced John as the new President with many compli- 
 ments. Then, dear John, looking so nice, with a clear 
 voice, read his address, and I am told it was heard even in 
 the gallery at the end. I liked it extremely, and people 
 seem to think it was very good. Our party, Evelyn, Dick, 
 &c., sat in the front row, and when John read one or two 
 passages which he thought would particularly " fetch " 
 me, he looked with a little twinkle in my direction and of 
 course I twinkled in return. 
 
 [The following account is reprinted from the " Montreal 
 Gazette," August 28th, 1884.] 
 
 Everything combined to favour the opening day of the British 
 Association meeting yesterday. Bright skies overhead, and 
 weather not too warm, and tempered by a cooling breeze, made 
 what outdoor work had to be done pleasant and prevented indoor 
 proceedings from being oppressive. Adding to these conditions 
 
26 
 
 the general entlmsiasra which prevailed, the presence of so many 
 notable personages, distingnished in the worlds of science, of poll- 
 tics, of letters and of mercantile pursuits, and the attendance of so 
 large a number of the fair sex, who evinced the greatest interest 
 in the proceedings, and it will be seen that the opening could 
 not have taken place under more pleasing auspices. Whilst the 
 city in general showed an extra amount of life and bustle, the 
 interest naturally centered in the grounds of McOill University, 
 which presented a bright and lively scene. In the reception 
 room in the William Molson Hall there was a constant 
 succession of visitors, and the various offices wore a busy air- 
 In the grounds a new and picturesque effect was made by a 
 couple of marquees wherein luncheon was served, and the 
 grounds themselves, the grassy lawns and wooded walks, were 
 the constant resort of ladies and gentlemen. The morning was 
 spent by the visitors either in visits to the offices and reception 
 rooms, the arrangement of papers, or in " doing " the city. 
 At one o'clock the first work of the meeting commenced in the 
 meeting of the general committee. Subsequently, at half past 
 four, the visitors were formally welcomed by the mayor and 
 corporation in the Queen's Hall, which was the scene of a 
 brilliant gathering, and in the evening the first general meeting 
 of the Association took place in the same hall, when the 
 representative of the retiring president resigned the presidential 
 office, which was assumed by the new president. Lord Hayleigh. 
 Additional interest and distinction was given to the proceedings 
 yesterday by the presence of His Excellency the Governor- 
 General and the Marchioness of Lansdowne, and the Bight 
 Hon, Sir John A. Macdonald, Premier of the Dominion. Full 
 reports of all the meetings and speeches together with other 
 particulars of interest will be found subjoined. 
 
 MEETING OF THE GENERAL COMMITTEE. 
 
 A meeting of the general committee of the Association was 
 held in the James Ferrier Hall, Wesleyan College, at one 
 o'clock yesterday afternoon. Sir William Thomson presiding. 
 
 The minutes of the meeting at Southport were read by the 
 secretary, Rev. Prof. Bonney, and confirmed. 
 
 THE REPORT OF THE COUNCIL. 
 
 Capt. Douglas Galton, General Secretary, then read the annual 
 report of the council, which stated that since the meeting at 
 
20 
 
 Sonthport, Dr. F. Lindemann and Dr. Ernst Schroeder had been 
 elected correaponding members of the Association, and proceeded 
 88 follows : — " The present meeting of the British Association, 
 the fifty-fourth in number, is likely to be long memorable in its 
 annals, as the first held beyond the limits of the United Kingdom. 
 It marks a new point of departure, and one probably never 
 contemplated by the founders of the Association, although not 
 forbidden by the laws which they drew up The experiment 
 was doubtless a hazardous one, but it seems likely to be justified 
 by success, and it may be hoped that the vigour and vitality 
 gained by new experience may ultimately compensate for the 
 absence from this meeting of not a few familiar faces among the 
 older members ; there will, however, be as large a gathering of 
 members of more than one year's standing as is usual at a 
 successful meeting in Great Britain, and the efforts which have 
 been made by our hosts to facilitate the coming of members and 
 render their stay in Canada both pleasant and instructive, call 
 for the warmest acknowledgment. The inducements offered to 
 undertake the journey were indeed so great that the council 
 felt that it would be necessary to place some restriction upon 
 the election of new members, which for many years past, though 
 not unchecked in theory, has been almost a matter of course in 
 practice. Obviously these offers of the Canadian hosts of the 
 British Association were made to its members, not to those on 
 whom they might operate as an inducement to be enrolled 
 among its members. The council, therefore, before the close of 
 the Southport meeting, published the following resolution : — 
 " That after the termination of the present month (September, 
 1883), until further notice, new members be only elected by 
 special resolution of the council." Applications for admission 
 under these terms were very numerous, and were carefully sifted 
 by the council. Still, although the council as time progressed 
 and the number augmented, increased the stringency of their 
 requirements, it became evident that the newly elected members 
 would soon assume an unduly large proportion to those of older 
 standing, so that on May Gth, after electing 130 members under 
 this rule, it was resolved to make no more elections until the 
 commencement of the Montreal meeting, when it would be safe 
 to revert to the usual practice. The details of the arrangements 
 made for the journey have already been communicated to the 
 members, so that it is needless to make any further special 
 
27 
 
 reference to them, but the council have to acknotvledge the 
 great liberality of the associated cable companies in granting, 
 under certain restrictions, free ocean telegraphy to the members 
 of the Association during the meeting. The death of Sir William 
 Siemens has deprived the Association of one of its most earnest 
 supporters and friends. It was during his presidency at South- 
 ampton that the invitation to Montreal was accepted, and he was 
 appointed at Southport a vice-president for this meeting. The 
 council nominated Sir J. D. Hooker a vice-president, but he was 
 unfortunately obliged, for domestic reasons, to resign the 
 nomination in the early part of the summer. It has been the 
 custom at meetings of the Association to invite the attendance of 
 distinguished men of science from all parts of the world, but 
 the council considered that on the present occasion it would be 
 ■well to offer a special welcome to the American Association (of 
 which also several eminent Canadian men of science are 
 members) ; they have accordingly issued an invitation to the 
 standing ci umittee and fellows of that Association to attend the 
 meeting at Montreal on the footing of honorary members." 
 
 The Report then referred to the fact that the general treasurer 
 had been prevented from being present at the meeting, and that 
 as the usual assistant to the general treasurer could not also be 
 present, they had nominated Admiral Sir PJrasmus Ommanney, 
 C.B., F.R.fj., as deputy treasurer, and Mr. Harry Brown, 
 assistant secretary of University College, London, as financial 
 oflScer. The Report proceeded to state that the council had, 
 aftar consideration, decided to form a separate section of an- 
 thropology, and reported with reference to the resolution 
 referred to them b) the general committee, " That application 
 be made to the Admiralty to institute a Physical and Biological 
 Survey of Milford Haven, and the adjacent coast of Pembroke- 
 shire, on the plan followed by the American Fisheri. . 
 Commission." They had done so, and had been inforniea 
 by the Lords of H. M. Treasury, 'iyhat they regretted t" be 
 unable to institute such a survey, as the Admiralty had no 
 vCEsels available for this service. With regard to the Report 
 of the Committee of Section A respecting the suppression of 
 four of the seven principal observatories of the Meteorological 
 Council, and to forward a copy of the same to the Meteorological 
 Council, thoy reported that arrangements had beeu made, 
 whereby three out of the four obsorratorios relinqnisbed by the 
 
28 
 
 Meteorological Conncil wonld be continaed, though on a somewhat 
 different footing. The conncil also reported that they had sent 
 a comniunication to the Executive Committee of the International 
 Fisheries Exhibition, urging upon that body the appropriation 
 of a sufficient sum out of the surplus funds remaining in their 
 hands at the close of the Exhibition, to found a laboratory on 
 the British Coast for the study of marine zoology ; but there 
 did not seem any prospect of such an appropriation of the 
 surplus funds. The Report then referred to the Report of the 
 Committee on local scientific societies, and detailed the alter- 
 ations which its adoption would make necessary in the rules, 
 stating that it was proposed to reserve the consideration of this 
 question by the general Committee ior the meeting to be held in 
 London in November. The Report concluded as follows : " The 
 vacancies in the council to be declared at the General Committee 
 Meeting in November will be Lord Rayleigh, who has assumed 
 the presidency, together with the following who retire in the 
 ordinary course : Mr. G. Darwin, Mr. Hastings, Ur. Huggins 
 and Dr. Burden Sanderson, and the council will recommend 
 for re-election on that occasion the other ordinary members of 
 council, with the addition of the gentlemen whoso names are 
 distinguished by an asterisk in the following list: — *Abney, 
 Capt. R.E., Adams, Professor W. G., *Ball, Professor R. S., 
 Bateman, J. F. La Trobe, Esq., Bramwell, Sir F., Dawkins, 
 Professor W. Boyd, De La Rue, Dr. Warren, Dewar, Professor 
 J., Evans, Captain Sir F., Flower, Professor W. H., Gladstone, 
 Dr. J. H., Glaisher, J. W. L., Fsq., Godwin-Austen, Lieut-Col. 
 H. H., Hawkshaw, J. Clarke, Esq., Henrici. Professor O., Hughes, 
 Professor T. McK., Jeffreys, Dr. J. Gwyn *Moseley, Professor 
 H. N,, *Ommaney, Adniral Sir E., Peiigel'y, W., Esq., Perkin, 
 W. H., Esq., Prestwich, Professor, Sclater- Booth, The Right 
 Hon. George, Sorby, Dr. II. C, *Temple, Sir R. In accordance 
 with the decision arrived at by them at Southport, the Geneml 
 Committee will meet on Tuesday, 11th November, at Thi'co 
 o'clock in the afternoon in the Theatre of the Royal Institution, 
 Albemarle Street, London, W., for the transaction of the 
 following business, viz. : — To elect the president, oHicers and 
 conncil for 1884-85; to fix the date of meeting for 1885; to 
 appoint the place of meeting for 1886 ; and to consider the 
 alteration of rules necessary to give effect to the recommendation 
 of the Committee on local scientific socii'tii's. 
 
 
29 
 
 On motion of the Chairman the Report was adopted. 
 
 AN ADDRESS FROM THE ROTAL 80CIETT. 
 
 The President of the Royal Society, Dr. T. Sterry-Hunt, then 
 read the following address : — 
 
 To the Pretident and Council of the British Aasociation for the 
 Advancement of Science. 
 
 Tho Eoyal Society of Canada greets with cordial welcome the 
 memberg of your Association on the occasion of its first visit to the 
 American continent, and rejoices to find among those who have accepted 
 the invitation of the citizens of Montreal so many names, renowned as 
 leaders of scientific research. 
 
 The Eoyal Society of Canada, which is a body recently organized 
 and in the third year of its existence, includes not only students of natural 
 history and natural philosophy, who make up together one-half of its 
 eighty members, but others devoted to the history and the literature of 
 the two great European races, who are to-day engaged in the task of 
 building up in North America a new nation under the shelter of the 
 British flag. 
 
 Recognizing the fact that material progress can only be made in 
 conjunction with advancement in literature and in science, we hail your 
 visit as an event destined to give a new impulse to the labours of our 
 own students, believing at the same time that the great problems of 
 material nature, not less than the social and political aspects of this vast 
 realm, will afford you subjects for profitable study, and trusting that 
 when your short visit is over, you will return to your native land with 
 kindly memories of Canada and a confidence that its growth in all that 
 makes a people good and great is secured. 
 
 T. Stebbt Hunt, President, 
 
 John Qko. Boubniot, Hon. Secretary. 
 
 Montreal, August 27, 1884. 
 
 Dr. Hunt's predecessor in office, the Hon. Dr. Chauveau, 
 followed and after a few introductory remarks read the address 
 in French. 
 
 Sir William Thomson, in replying, said : — I am sure all the 
 members of the general committee are greatly gratified with the 
 warm welcome accorded to us in the addresses just delivered on 
 behalf of the two great divisions of our countrymen in this 
 province, the English and French races. It is very gratifying to 
 see this cordial unanimity existing between them, and in the 
 name of the general committee I beg to express our warmest 
 thanks for these addresses of welcome. (Applause.) 
 
 Dr. T. StekryHunt said he would now, with their permission, 
 read an address which had been transmitted by the committee 
 
30 
 
 of reception at the neighbouring town of Ghambly, where a 
 memorial tablet was to be placed at the old fort at that place on 
 Saturday next. The address was as follows : — 
 
 Mr. Steebt Hunt will please do the reception committee at Chambly 
 the honour to represent them before the members of the British Associa- 
 tion for the advancement of science, and to inform them that at Chambly, 
 on the 30th instant, at half -past three o'clock, there will be the ceremony 
 of placing a tablet in the old Fort Chartrain, built by France in 1711 
 against the English, now its allies. 
 
 The presence of members of the British Association at this ceremony 
 will be regarded as an honour by the Canadian people of the shores of 
 the Richelieu. It will be for them an encouragement, and for otir young 
 country a proof of the interest felt in Europe for all that belongs to 
 history, whether shown in the preservation of old monuments, or iu the 
 placing therein of memorial tablets. 
 
 Chambly was long a military post occupied at times by men famous 
 aUke in French and English annals. It is also the birthplace of Albani, 
 the famous Canadian singer, and here are buried the remains of de 
 Salaberry, the Canadian Leonidas, in whose honour a statue has lately 
 been erected. Mr. Sterry Hunt will please present the respects of the 
 Chambly committee to the members of the British Association while 
 accepting them for himself, and will believe me his most obedient 
 servant, 
 
 J. O. Dion, Secretary-General of the Committee. 
 Chambly, August 25, 1884. 
 
 On Saturday next, Dr. Hunt explained there would be an 
 excursion at 2 p.m. to Chambly from the city. He knew that 
 other excursions had been arranged for to Quebec and elsewhere, 
 and he had no wish to interfere with these arrangements, but 
 those who chose to avail themselves of his cordial invitation 
 would find a visit to Chambly exceedingly interesting. 
 
 Sir Wm. Thompson returned cordial thanks to Mr. Dion for 
 his kind invitation, and felt sure many members of the associa- 
 tion would avail themselves of it. 
 
 THE CIVIC RECEPTION. 
 
 Fully an hour before the time for presenting the civic address 
 crowds of people began to ascend the stairs leading to the 
 Queen's Hall, and by half-past four o'clock the hall was filled to 
 overflowing, and when the mayor and aldermen, with the mem- 
 bera of the British Association put in an appearance, they were 
 heartily received by the audience. His Worship, Mayor Beaudry 
 (who wore his chain of office) presided, and was supported on 
 
31 
 
 tho right by Sir William Thomson (representing the retiring 
 president, Prof. Cayley), and the Right Hon. Lord BAyleigh 
 (president-elect), and on his left by the Premier of the Dominion, 
 the Bight Honourable Sir John A. Macdonald. Amongst others 
 present were Sir Lyon Playfair, Capt. Douglas Galton, Prof. 
 Henry E. Roscoe, Sir James Douglass, Prof. Chandler Roberts, 
 Mr. W. Terlawney Saunders, Prof. Glaisher, Hon. C. W, Free- 
 mantle, Capt. Bedford Pim, Rev. Prof. Bonney, Sir Richard 
 Temple, Dr. Alexander, Principal Dawson, C.M.G., Prof. 
 Cheriman, Mr. M. H. Gault, M.P., Hob. J. F C. Wurtele, 
 Dr. Persiford Frazer, U. S. Consul-General Steams, Andrew 
 Robertson, and the following members of the city corporation : 
 Aldermen Grenier, Fairbairn, Laurent, Stevenson, Rainville, 
 Donovan, Beauchamp, Archibald, Robert, Prefontaine, Holland, 
 Tansey, Beauscleil, Mount, Rolland, Hood, J. C. Wilson, Thos. 
 Wilson, Mooney, Jeannotte, Farrell and Genereux ; Mr. Charles 
 Glackmeyer, city clerk ; Mr. Perceval W. St. George, city 
 surveyor ; Mr. J. F. D. Black, city treasurer ; and Mr. H. 
 Paradis, chief of police. Mr. W. R Spence, organist of the 
 Church of St. John the Evangelist, presided at the organ. 
 
 His Worship the Mayor opened the proceedings by reading 
 the following ; — 
 
 ADDRESS. 
 
 To the President and Member! of the British Association for the Advance- 
 ment of Science : 
 
 Gbntlembn, — It is with no common pleasure that we, the mayor and 
 aldermen of Montreal welcome to this city and to Canada, so distinguish- 
 ed a body as the British Association for the Advancement of Science. 
 Already indeed, not only here, but through the length and breadth of 
 the land, that welcome has been pronounced with a heartiness to which 
 we are proud to add the confirmation of formal expression. 
 
 During the last two years, and especially since the acceptance of our 
 invitation made it a certainty, your coming amongst us has been looked 
 forward to as an event of deep and manifold importance to the Dominion. 
 
 Aware of the devotion with which the Association had for more than 
 half a century, applied itself to the object indicated in its name, and 
 knowing that its present membership comprised the most eminent of 
 those noble students and investigators who have made the search after 
 truth the aim of their lives, we could not fail to perceive that Canada 
 would gain by the presence of observers and thinkers so exact and 
 so unprejudiced. Nor were we without the hope that in the vast and 
 varied expanse of territory which constitutes the Dominion, our learned 
 visitors would meet with features of interest that should be some 
 compensation for so long and wearisome a journey. 
 
Here in that great stretch of diversified region between the Athmtic 
 and the Pacific, the student of almost every branch of science must find 
 Bomt*'''nj[ worth learning ; whilst for certain sections of the Asso ",tion 
 there are few portions of the world in which 'he explorer is more likely 
 to be gratified and rewarded. 
 
 Throughout this broad domain of ours, rock and herb, forest and 
 prairie, lake and river, air and soil, with whatever life or whatever relic 
 of life in past ages, they may severally contain, — afford to the diligent 
 seeker of knowledge various and ample scope for research. Nor to the 
 student of man aa a social and political being, is there less of opportunity 
 for acquiring fresh facts and themes for reflection in a young common- 
 wealth like this. 
 
 We flatter ourselves that here you will find a people not unworthy of 
 the great races from which it has sprung, and that, on your return to 
 the mother-land, you will be able to speak with satisfaction, from your 
 own expeiience, of our federal system, our resources, our agriculture, 
 our manufactures, our commerce, our institutions of learning, our 
 progress and our destinies. 
 
 You have come and we place our land, ourselves, and all we are and 
 have at your disposal. We bid you a hearty welcome, and in so 
 honouring ourselves, we only ask you to consider yourselves at home, 
 remembering that you are still on British soil. 
 
 In conclusion, Mr. President and Gentlemen, we sincerely hope that 
 your stay in this portion of Her Majesty's Empire may be as happy and 
 as fruitful to the Association as it is grateful for so many reasons to the 
 people of Montreal and of the Dominion. 
 
 J. L. Beaudet, 
 
 Mayor. 
 Chas. Glackmetgb, 
 City Clerk. 
 
 Sir Wm. Thomson acknowledged in cordial terms the hearty 
 welcome expressed in this address. The Association, he 
 continued, when it commenced the experiment of being a 
 peripatetic Association for the advancement of science, made an 
 experiment which many considered of a doubtful character. It 
 was urged that although zeal for a new thing might carry the 
 Association on for a few years successfully, the success would 
 ce:\se with the novelty. This prophecy had not been fulfilled. 
 On the contrary, the experiment had been crowned with brilliant 
 success. He did not think the founders of the Association, fiftj- 
 two years ago, when they drew up the wiP3 plan and regulations 
 of the society which have since continued in force almost without 
 change, imagined, for a moment, the possibility of a meeting 
 being held on this side of the Atlantic. (Applause.) Their 
 meeting here was strictly within the letter of the law and wholly 
 
88 
 
 in accordance with the spirit by which tlie Britinh Association 
 wai directed, and that was to carry throuf^li the llriliMli Empire 
 any advancement in Bcienco that could bo promoted by the 
 existence of the Aasociation. At the outset, when the Ixidy was 
 forini'd, some fifty years ago, the mathematical section, of which 
 he was now president, held that it was impossible for a steam- 
 boat to cross the Atlantic. As president of that section, he 
 ought to be ashamed that it had adopted such a conclusion. The 
 business of the Association was to advance science and never to 
 stand still. Many misgivings had been felt as to the success of 
 the experiment of visiting this side of the water, but none wore 
 felt as to the kindness with which they would be r'-'civod. Nn- 
 body doubted that the warmest welcome would be given by 
 their countrymen on this side, and none know bett«r how to 
 give u, warm welcome. With respect to his own feelings, 
 hi. ' ''. most deeply the privilege and honour of filling the 
 position he held, but it was accompanied with ono regret and 
 that was the absence of Professor Cayley, who would have been 
 in his place had not circumstances compelled him to remain on 
 the other side. He concluded by again expressing his warm 
 thanks and those of the Association for the magnificent welcome 
 given them. 
 
 Lord Rayleioh, a.s president-elect, joined in the expression of 
 thanks for the hearty welcome. We all, he said, felt great in- 
 terest in visiting, many of us for the first time, this extensive 
 and diversified land, which has become the homo of so many of 
 our fellow countrymen. Before the day is out 1 am afraid the 
 tones of my voice will have become only too familiar to you, 
 and I will therefore say nothing moio than that we most 
 cordially reciprocate the sentiments expressed in the address 
 presented to us. 
 
 Sir John A. Macuonald was then requested to address the 
 meeting. As he came forward, looking as vigorous and cheery 
 as if time had consented to roll backwards in his favour, the 
 enthusiasm and delight of the audience found vent in a perfect 
 ovation of applause. On all sides among our visitors, as well aa 
 our own citizens, were heard expressions of genial interest on 
 the one hand and of delight on the other. Sir John gained the 
 heart of the audience at once, and, after the applause had 
 subsided, said : — I really do not know in what capacity I am 
 cvUed upon to address this audience, whether it is a.s a .scientist 
 
34 
 
 or aa a Canadian or as a member of 'lie government. I cannot 
 well say — I will say, however — I come here as a scientist. I 
 am not yet settled in my own mind to whicu strtion I will attach 
 myself. I think I will wait awhile, use my Scotch discretion, 
 hear all that has to be said on all those questions before iinally 
 decid. ig. (Laughter.) We all cordially join in the sentiments 
 expressed in the address from the corporation. It was a great 
 pleasure to us all in Canada to know there was a possibility of 
 the British Association extending their visits to Canada. I first 
 thought, when the proposition was made, it was asking too 
 much, but the cordial response made and the large attendance, 
 showed these fears were not well fonnded. I am glad the wea- 
 ther is fine, the country is prosperoui-, he fieldo .i:"«i groaning with 
 products, and altogether we put on our best clothes to do honour 
 to those gentlemen who have honoured Canada (applause and 
 laughter), and I really hope they will not be disappointed. ^ 
 can assure them, if tliey wanted the assurance, the people of 
 Canada are proud and gi-ateful for their visit. If theio are any 
 shortcomings amopg us it is because we are a young country ; 
 but we will do our best any way and you must iake the will for 
 the deed. (Applause.) I am sure I express tne sentiments of 
 all in giving the Association a most hearty greeting to the 
 Dominion of Canada. (Loud applause.) The national anthem 
 was then sung by the entire audience, and on three cheers being 
 given for the Queen, the meeting dispersed. 
 
 THE GENERAL MEETING. 
 
 The first general meeting of the Association was held in tV.e 
 Queen's Hall at eight o'clock last evening, the hall being crowded 
 to its utmost capacity, many having to stand, while others were 
 unable to obtain admission. Sir William Thomson occupied the 
 chair, and beside him on the platform were His Kxcellency the 
 Governor General and Lady Lansdowne and suite, the Right 
 Hon. yir John Macdonald, and the president-elect, the Right 
 Hon. Lord Rayleigh. 
 
 His ExcEM.KNCT THE Qovernor-Geneual was firpt introduci'd, 
 and delivered the following address of welcome : — 
 
 Lord Rayleigh, ladies and gentlemen, — I am given to unc'er- 
 stand that it would be in accordance with the rules under which 
 the business of the Britisli Association is ciirried or, that the 
 proceedings of to-dny should commence with the vacation ot the 
 
 
36 
 
 
 president's chair and by the inetallation of the president-elect in 
 the place which he will so honourably fill. The occasion, how- 
 ever, which has brought us together )3 so remarkable, and will 
 be 80 memorable, not only m the annals of the Association, but 
 ill the history of the Dominion, that I believe you will pardon 
 the slight irregularity of which, as a member of the Association, 
 I am guilty, in rising to address a few words to this distinguished 
 audience. The occasion, Lord Rayleigh, is the first upon which 
 the British Association has held a meeting beyond the narrow 
 limits of the United Kingdom. Such a departure from the 
 usage which you have hitherto observed, though an inauguration, 
 is certainly not inconsistent with the objects of the Association 
 or with the desig^ns of i's founders; its earliest records contain 
 the statement that it was instituted for the promotion of inter- 
 course between those who cultivated science in different parts, 
 not merely of the British Islands, but of the British Empire. I 
 question whether any means of promoting this intercourse could 
 have been discovered more effectual than the holding of your 
 annual meeting in one of the great cities of this colony, and my 
 object in now addressing you is to express at the very outset the 
 satisfaction with which the people, not only of Montreal, but of 
 the whole Dominion, hail your arrival here and to welcome you 
 in their name to these shores. (Loud applause.) Perhaps yon 
 will allow me to stat« my own belief that if you were to select for 
 your place of meeting a spot within the colonial empire of 
 England, you could not have selected a colony which better de- 
 served the distinction, either in respect of the warmth of its 
 affection for the mother country, or in respect of the desire of 
 its inhabitants for the diffusion of knowledge and of culture. 
 (Applause.) In a young country such pursuits must be carried 
 on in the face of some difficulty and of the competition of that 
 material activity which must to a great extent engross the time 
 and absorb the att«ntion of a rapidly developing community 
 such as this. We may, however, claim for Canada that she has 
 ilone her best, that she has above all spared no pains to provide 
 lor the interest of science in the future, and that amongst those 
 who have done scientific work within the Dominion are men 
 known and respected far beyond the bounds of their own nation. 
 In this conitection I cannot deny myself the pleasure of referring 
 to the honours which have been conferred upon Sir William 
 Dawson within the last few days. (Loud and long continued 
 
 c 2 
 
86 
 
 applause.) He is, unless I am misinformed, more responsible 
 than any one person for the visit of the Association, and I feel 
 sure that I shall command the acquiescence of all those who 
 have worked in the cause of Canadian culture when I say that 
 we regard the knighthood which Her Majesty has bestowed 
 upon him as an appropriate recognition of his distinguished 
 services, and as an opportune compliment to Canadian science. 
 (Applause.) But the significance of this meeting is far greater 
 than it would be if its results were to be measured merely by 
 the addition which it will make to the scientific wealth of the 
 empire. When we find a society which for fifty years has never 
 met outside the British Islands transferring its operations to the 
 Dominion — when we sc^ several hundred of our best known 
 Englishmen, who have acquired a public reputation, not only 
 in the scientific, but in the political and the literary world, 
 arriving here mingling with our citizens, and dispersing in all 
 directions over this continent ; when we see in Montreal the 
 bearers of such names as Rayleigh, PJayfair, Frankland, Burden, 
 Sanderson, Thomson, Roscoe, Blanford, Moseley, Lefroy, 
 Temple, Bramwell, Tylor, Galton, Harcourt and Bonney, we feel 
 that one more step has been taken towards the establishment of 
 that close intimacy between the mother country and her off- 
 spring, which both here and at home all good citizens of the 
 empire are determined to promote. (Loud applause.) The de- 
 sire for suoh cloeer intimacy is one of the most remarkable and 
 one of the best features in the political life of the present day. 
 Our periodical literature, our proceedings in parliament, the 
 public discussions which have recently taken place and in which 
 some of our most prominent Canadians have taken a part, all 
 indicate a remarkable awakening to the importance of the noblest 
 colonial empire which the world has ever seen, and a desire to 
 draw closer the ties of sympathy and allegiance which bind us 
 reciprocally. (Applause.) And, ladies and gentlemen, what- 
 ever difficulty there may be in the way of a revision of the 
 political relations of the mother country and her colonies, it is 
 satisfactory to reflect that there are none in the way of such an 
 alliance as that which yon are establishing to-day between tha 
 culture of the old world and that of the new. (Applause.) In 
 the domain of science there can be no conflict cf local and im- 
 perial interests — no constitution to revise — no embarrassing 
 considerations cf foreign and domestic policy. Wo are all 
 
 
S7 
 
 
 partners and co-heirs of a great empire, and we may work side 
 by side without misgiving, and with a certainty that every 
 addition to the common fund of knowledge and mutual enlight- 
 enment is an unmixed advantage to the whole empire. (Loud 
 applause.) T believe, Lord Rayleigh, that your visit will be 
 fraught with far reaching advantages both to hosts and guests. 
 We shall gain in acquaintance with our visitors, and in the pub- 
 licity which their visit will give to the resources and atti-actions 
 of this country. We believe that it will be more justly 
 apprecialet! in proportion as it becomes more widely known and 
 more thoroughly understood. (Applause.) Sympathy, as a 
 distinguished Canadian has lately written, begets knowledge, 
 and knowledge again adds to sympathy. You, ladies and 
 gentlemen, who have lately left the mother country, will gain 
 in the opportunity which will be afforded you of studying the 
 life of a people younger than your own but engaged in the 
 solution of many probl«ms similar to those which engage our 
 attention at home, and observing the conduct of your own race 
 amidst the surroundings of another hemisphere. On every side 
 you will find objects of interest. Our political system, the work- 
 ing of federation, the arrangements of the different provinces for 
 the education of our youth, our railways pushed across this 
 continent with an enterprise which has never been surpassed 
 by the oldest and largest communities — (loud applause) — our 
 forests, our geology, our mineral resources, our agriculture in 
 all its different phases ranging from the quiet homesteads and 
 skilful cultivation of the older provinces to the newly reclaimed 
 prairies of the North-west, which we expect to yield us this 
 season a surplus of from six to nine millions of bushels, the 
 history and characteristics of our native racen, and the manner 
 in which we have dealt with them — all these will afford you 
 opportunities of study which few other portions of the globe 
 could present in such variety. (Applause.) Of the facilities 
 which will be afforded to you and of the pains which have been 
 taken to render your explorations easy and agreeable, I need not 
 speak. Some of you are aware that a distinguished member of 
 an assembly to which you and I, Lord Rayleigh, have both the 
 honour to belong, has lately been cautioning the English public 
 against the dangers of legislation by picnic. (Loud applause.) 
 I have heard that in some quarters misgivings have been ex- 
 pressed. We too should be exposed to similar danger, and lest 
 
38 
 
 the attractioDg which the Brititih Association is ofPered here 
 should conflict with its more strictly scientific objects. These 
 are probably rumores senum sevmurum, and I will only say of 
 them, if there is any ground for such apprehensions, you must 
 remember that hospitality is an instinct with our people, and 
 that it is their desire that you should see and learn a great deal, 
 and that you shonld see and learn it in the pleasantest manner 
 possible. (Applause.) I have only one word more to say. I 
 wish to express the pleasure with which I see in this room repre- 
 sentatives, not only of English and Continental and Canadian 
 science, but also many distinguished representatives of that grout 
 people which, at a time when the relations of the mother country 
 and her colonies were less wisely regulated than at present, ceased 
 to be subjects of the British Crown, but did not cease to become 
 our kinsmen. Many of you will pass from these meetings to the 
 great re-union to be held a few days hence at Philadelphia, where 
 you will be again reminded that there are ties which bind to- 
 gether not only the constituent par's of the British empire, but 
 the whole of the British race — ties of mutual sympathy and 
 good-will which such intercourse will strengthen and which, I 
 believe, each succeeding decade will draw more closely and 
 firmly together. (Applause.) I have now only to apologize for 
 having intervened in your proceedings. T feel that what I have 
 said would have come better from the lips of a Canadian. Others 
 will, however, have ample opportunities for supplementing both 
 by word and deed the shortcomings of which 1 may have been 
 guilty. It was my duty — and I have much pleasure in dis- 
 charging it — as the representative of the Crown in this part of 
 the empire to bid you in the name of our people a hearty welcome 
 to the Dominion. (Loud and long continued applause.) 
 
 Sir Wm. Thomson, in responding, said : — You will allow me, in 
 the first place, to ofFer my warmest thanks to His Excellency 
 the Governor-General for coming among us this evening, and 
 for the very kind and warm welcome which he has offered to 
 the British Association, on the part of the Dominion. Your 
 Excellency, it devolves upon me as representing Professor 
 Cayley, the president of the British Association, to do what I 
 wish he were here to do himself, and which it would have been 
 a well-earned pleasure for him to do — to introduce to yon Lord 
 Rayleigh as his successor in the office of President of the British 
 Association. Professor Cayley has devoted his life to the 
 
:{•) 
 
 advancement of puro mathematics. It is indeed peculiarly 
 appropriate that ho should bo followed in the honourable post of 
 president by one who has done so much to apply mathematical 
 power in the various branches of phywical science as Lord 
 liayloigh has done. In the field of the discovery and demonstra- 
 tion of natural phenomena Lord Ilayleigh has, above all others 
 enriched nhysical science by the application of mathematical 
 analysis ; and when I speak of mathematics you must not 
 suppose mathematics to he harsh and crabbed. (Laughter.) 
 The Association learned last year at Southport what a glorious 
 realm of beauty there was in pvire mathematics I will not, 
 however, be hard on those who insist that it is harsh and 
 crabbed. In reading some of the pages of the greatest invest- 
 igators of mathematics one is apt to become wearied, and I must 
 confess that some of the pages of Lord Rayinigh's work have 
 taxed me most severely, but the strain was well repaid. When 
 we pass from the instrument which is harsh and crabbed to 
 those who do not give theniHclves the troublo to learn it 
 thoroughly, to the application of the instrument, see what a 
 splendid world of light, beauty and music is opened to us 
 through such investigations as those of Lord Rayleigh. His 
 book on h(jund is the greatest piece of mathematical investigation 
 we know of applied to a branch of physical science. The 
 branches of music are mere developments of mathematical 
 formulas, and of every note and wave in music the equation lies 
 in the pages of Lord Kayleigh's book. (Laughter and applause.) 
 Tiicre are some who have no ear for music, but all who are 
 blessed with eyes can admire the beauties of nature, and among 
 those one which is seen in Canada frequently, in England often, in 
 Scotland rarely, is the bine sky. (Laughter.) Lord Kajleigh's 
 brilliant piece of mathematical work on the dynamics of blue 
 sky is a monument to the application of mathematics to a subject 
 of supreme difliculty, and on the subject of refraction of light he 
 has pointed out the way towards finding all that has to be known, 
 though he has ended his work by admitting that the expliination 
 of the fundamentals of the reflection and refraction of light is 
 still wanting and is a subject for the efforts of the Briti^ll 
 Association for the Advancement of Science. But there is still 
 another subject, electricity and the electric light, and hero again 
 Lord Kayleigh's work is fnndanieiitnl, and one may hope from 
 the suggestions it contains that electricity may yet be put upon 
 
40 
 
 the level of ordinary mechanics, and that the electrician may be 
 able to weigh oat electric quantities as eanily and readily as a 
 merchant could a (juantity of tea or sugar. (Applause.) It 
 remains for me only to fulfil the commission which Professor 
 Cayley has entrusted to me of expressing his great regret that 
 his engagements in England prevented his being with us, and in 
 his name to vacate the chair of president of the Association and 
 to ask Lord Rayleigh to take his place as President for 
 l«84. (Applause.) 
 
 [Lord Rayleigh then delivered the Presidential Address, a cofy nf 
 which is appended to this work."] 
 
 Lord Rayloigh was loudly applauded at the conclusion of his 
 address. 
 
 Hon. Dr. Chahveau in an eloquent speech in French proposed 
 a vote of thanks to Lord Rayleigh for the interesting sketch he 
 had given of modem science. In this scientific review Lord 
 Rayleigh had also displayed great literary ability. The reunion 
 to-day of the British Association was significant in the sense 
 that it extended the operations of the society to all parts of the 
 British Empire, so that while on the other side the question of a 
 federation of the British Empire was being raised, the British 
 Association had taken the lead in its sphere by casting out the 
 roots of a scientific federation. In this connection he spoke of 
 the work the Royal Society was doing in Canada. He was glad 
 to see that Lord Rayleigh did not hold extreme views as to the 
 elimination of classical studies from our schools, for he believed 
 that in those stores of antiquity our modern mind found a great 
 deal of its strength, and were this study abolished our mental 
 grasp and vigour would be greatly lessened. What Canada 
 required was the greater development of our universities. In 
 this way would science be most benefited, for we would have a 
 greater number of men able to devote themselves entirely to the 
 study of scientific subjects. He expressed the pleasure he felt at 
 the honour of knighthood conferred on Principal Dawson, an 
 honour in which the whole Canadian people felt pride, and con- 
 eluded amidst great applause. 
 
 Mr. HoGH McLennan in seconding the resolution said the very 
 interesting address which Lord Rayleigh had given them 
 was not only a source of pleasure to the audience, but gave 
 
 
it 
 
 them an adequate idea of the wide field of knowledge and 
 research opened by those who devoted themselves to different 
 scientific pursuits. The presence of so many rr(,- devoted to 
 scientific pursuits in our midst could not fail to gi.'v' an iiipetua 
 to the study of science in this country. We had not many 
 scientific men, owing principally to the fact that the peojile who 
 settled here had given their attention to material pursuits, but a 
 new era was now opening. The wortliy chief of the government 
 must be gratified at the eucct^ss of his wise policy in encouraging 
 this movement, which couk! not fail to be of great profit to 
 Canadians, and he felt sure that no vote would be more heartily 
 given than the vote of thanks to Lord Rayleigh, which he had 
 much pleasure in seconding. 
 
 Sir Wm. Thomson put the motion, which was adopted 
 unanimously amidst loud applause. 
 
 Lord Rayleigh returned thanks for the honour done him, and 
 the meeting adjourned until Friday next, when Professor Ball 
 will deliver a lecture. 
 
 It was not very surprising that after all this excitement 
 'I had a very bad night and awoke quite ill Thursday- 
 morning, remained all day in bed nursing and starving, 
 and could not, therefore, go to two afternoon parties for 
 which we had invitations, nor to the grand evening 
 reception at the college. This morning I am feeling quite 
 well, and it is potiring with rain. 
 
 Friday Evening. — After luncheon Dr. P. Smith called 
 and went with me to Section A, but we were too late to 
 
 hear John's paper — He told mo that he and E start 
 
 for Quebec to-night after a lecture on " Dust," and stay at 
 the Lansdownes for the festivities there (we three have 
 settled not to go), and return Sunday evening. We went 
 then to Section B to hear something of Chemistry, and to 
 the Vicars Boyle's at the Windsor Hotel, and found her at 
 home. I have had a letter asking us all to go to the 
 
12 
 
 Macplierson's at Toronto. Hedley and I called on tlie 
 McClennan'a (Dick's liosta) and found her to be a nice 
 clever woman, with seven sons and two daughters. Mrs. 
 Stephen had called in my absence and waited some time to 
 see me, and left a message for us to drink tea there Sunday, 
 but I shall probably be occupied elsewhere. Dick went to 
 see the Victoria Bridge to-day and dines here. Mr. Angus 
 has been telling us delightful accounts of some of the new 
 routes through the Eocky Mountains down to British 
 Columbia, which the Canadian Pacific Railway will take, 
 and which will be finished by the spring of next year. Their 
 surveyor, Mr. Van Horn, has just returned from an explora- 
 tion, and gave very curious details in answer to Professor 
 G. Ramsay's questions (brother of Sir James Ramsay) , 
 Mr. Van Horn says the mountains sheer up eight to 
 eleven thousand feet ; glaciers are eighteen to twenty miles 
 lung ; trees two hundred and fifty feet high and thirty 
 in circumference. They have only to cut one down and 
 it makes a capital bridge at onco. He told us a curious 
 story of a Mr. Rogers, who started with a young engineer 
 to find a pass for the railroad over the Rocky mountains 
 which would, on its discovery, make him famous. After 
 their six days' pi-ovisions were all exhausted, Mr. Carroll, 
 the young engineer, said : " It is all very well for you, 
 but what shall I gain by risking my life and going on P " 
 " Well," said Mr. Rogers, " let us go to that high plateau 
 and think." While there, he decided to go on, upon 
 which Mr. Carroll again expostulated. Mr. Rogers then 
 exclaimed : " You see all these magnificent peaks, which 
 probably no human eye has seen before — now the grandest 
 of these shall be named after you if I succeed." Just 
 then a caribou went past. They gave chiise and ho took 
 them nine miles into a vrilley whore thoy did not find 
 h-im but did find a cache of food — and then the jja«« ! And 
 
4;{ 
 
 
 the highest mountain is called Mount Carroll at this 
 day, Mr. Angus does not encourage me much to go 
 to the Rocky Mountains, on the ground of fatigue and 
 hardships. 
 
 Wednesday, Sepcember 2nd. — I must bring up my journal 
 to this date. On Saturday there were no sections. John 
 
 and E Lansdownes and many others went to Quebec. 
 
 Owing to showers of rain the festivities there were rather 
 
 a failure. Miss Angus drove H and me to Mount Royal, 
 
 where we had a splendid view ; Dick walked up. We 
 then went to the market, and saw there all sorts of new 
 vegetables, fruits, and fish. The melons here aro delicious, 
 and we have had buckwheat cakes, and rice cakes, and 
 sweet potatoes, and bluebenies. The living here is very 
 good, and nothing can be more comfortable than we are ; 
 but the flies are sometimes an annoyance, and the darkness 
 of the rooms — which are kept dark to prevent their getting 
 
 in. Saturday afternoon Dick, H and I went to see 
 
 La Chine by rail to the steamer, and then down the 
 rapids, which were less dangerous looking than we 
 expected. A violent thunder-storm came on, and in the 
 middle of it we got into the whirlpool of the rapids, 
 and then a fiery red sun broke out among a mass of 
 dense black clouds ; a great fire appeared also near the 
 bar ' of the river, and all this combined, produced very 
 strik'ug effects. We met on the steamer Mr. George 
 Darwin and his Bride — a charming looking American 
 girl — J..:! looks already much better and hiippior ! 
 
 Sundaif. — Miss A ,H , and Iwont tothe cathedral, 
 
 a full simple service and good sermon t'mni Mr. Champion. 
 In the afternoon I went with Dick to a musical service 
 ai St. James' Church — such a sermon ! from a man who 
 nearly wriggled himself out of the pulpit ; he came frc .i 
 Norwood, I heard. 
 
u 
 
 Monday. — We went in the afternoon to a party at 
 Mrs. Redpatli's ; her son, "now gone to his home above,", 
 she said, had known one of mine at Cambridge. It is a 
 pretty place, on a hill near this, and a good many people 
 there; it got very damp after sunset. We none of us 
 went to an evening party going on at Mrs. Gault's, 
 
 being too tired. Mr. C called early and went with 
 
 me to sections ; John joined me, and we saw and heard 
 Captains Ray and Greely of Arctic fame. They say he 
 (Greely) and his living companions saved themselves from 
 starvation by eating their dead ones — a dreadful alternative, 
 but I don't think they were to blame ; it did'nt agree with 
 him, for he looks horribly ill, poor man ! In the afternoon 
 we all went to see the Indian game of La Crosse played 
 between twelve Montrealists and twelve Indians. It is 
 pretty and exciting, something between lawn tennis and 
 football — I could have watched it for hoixrs ! we were 
 all comfortably seated in places of honour on a covered 
 stand, which partly accounts for my enjoyment. After 
 this we went to tea with Mr. and Mrs. G. Stephens, and 
 
 there with John and E we finally settled with 
 
 Mr. Stephens to go by Canadian Pacific Railway to the 
 north-west ; Mr. Stephens oii'ered us a private car, pro- 
 visioned, &c. ; we take his to Toronto, and stay there with 
 Sir David and Lady Macpherson. This invitation is the 
 result of an introduction I had from a friend in England. 
 Several invites have come from Philadeli)hia and New York. 
 I sent a telegram to yoii yesterday, btit according to the 
 rales of the Company (who allow us to send free, subject 
 
 to these conditions), it must first go to 90, O G ; 
 
 you will write next to New York, and I will give directions 
 there respecting all letters. Please tell Edward at T. P. 
 and Mary. 
 
 Wednesday. — I went to Sections for last time ; in 
 
4r) 
 
 afternoon to the closing meeting of British Association, 
 when they all butter one another ; the buttering of John 
 was, of course, very nice and justifiable ! Sir William 
 Dawson said among other things that John was to be 
 loved and admired as a man as well as a scientist. He 
 certainly looks gentlemanlike and sweet, and though 
 nervous, he always expresses himself well ; he and others 
 received the honour of D.C.L. from the McGill University 
 here. I forgot to say that on Tuesday evening there was 
 a grand reception by the civic authorities at the skating 
 rink, a very large hall, where we paraded up and down, 
 and the young ones danced (Hedley with Miss Angus), 
 
 and then I sat in a state gallery with E and other 
 
 grandees. I cannot say I was struck with the beauty 
 of the company. I made acquaintance with Captain 
 Greely — he does not look any better, poor man, but 
 has a nice expression. Wednesday evening we went to a 
 pretty party at Mr. Donald Smith's, the richest man in 
 Canada, and so kind and simple ; he had a ball-room 
 built at a day or two's notice, and tent for supper, and 
 Chinese lanterns lighted up the garden, &c. It was a lovely 
 night with full moon, and I was very glad to walk outside, 
 for the heat Avas very great, Mr. D. Smith asked me to 
 
 " Silver Heights," his place at Winnipeg. H^ and 
 
 Dick are both rather unwell to-day, and I hear poor Mr. 
 Walter Brown is dying. I am well enough now. It is 
 extremely hot, but there is always air. John has shirked 
 the Toronto function, and also the American Association 
 at Philadelphia — some of the B. A. are starting there 
 soon. We go alone to Toronto, and also to Winnipeg 
 and the Eocky Mountains. Miss Becker and Mrs. Hallett 
 called to see me, atid I signed a memorial of thanks to 
 Sir John Macdonald (the Premier of Canada), for pro- 
 posing Women's Suffrage here. 
 
-k; 
 
 THR AMERICAN ASSOCIATION. 
 
 The fact that the British Association meets this year in 
 Canada gives unusual interest to the meeting of the American 
 Association for the Advancement of Science at Philadelphia, 
 from September 4 to 11. After the Montreal meeting tliose 
 who feel inclined can make their way leisurely to Philadelphia 
 where iii is evident from the information before us, they will 
 meet with a warm reception. On the Friday evening, Septem- 
 ber 6, after the address of the retiring president (Professor 
 C. A. Young, of New Jersey) p general reception will bo ten- 
 dered by the citizens and ladies of Philadelphia to the members 
 of the British and American Associations, and the ladies 
 accompanying them. The British Association has been 
 cordially invited, both by the American Association to take 
 part in the proceedings, and by the local committee representing 
 the citizens of Philadelphia, to accept the warm welcome which 
 will be tendered them during the joint session. The local 
 committee haa, indeed, been divided Jjjto a number of sub- 
 committees for the sole purpose of rendering the stay of their 
 visitors agreeable. It will, therefore, only bo courteous on the part 
 of Britons who intend to be present at the American meeting 
 to comply with the committee's request, and send their names, 
 together with the number of ladies and gentlemen in their 
 parties, as early as possible, to Dr. Persifor Frazer, 201, South 
 Fifth-street, Philadelphia. During the week occupied by the 
 session there will be a number of receptions, entertainments, and 
 excursions, and a day will be set apart for the examination of the 
 International Electrical Exhibition, to be held at Philadelphia 
 under the auspices of the Frnrklin Inslitute, and commencing 
 September 2. By an arrangement between Ihe Canadian and 
 United States Trunk lines, members of the British Association 
 will be conveyed between Mtntreal and Philadelphia at specially 
 low fares, while the hotel charges at Ihe latter city during the 
 meeting are not expected to exceed three dollars a day. We 
 believe the number who have already promised to be at the 
 Montreal meeting is about seven-hundred and fifty, so that with 
 those who will go without piomising, added to the many Canadian 
 and United States Bcicntists •v^ho arc sure to be jiresent, the 
 meeting is likely to be in numbers more than an average one. 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. US«0 
 
 (716)872-4503 
 
I 
 
47 
 
 September 7lh, Toronto, The " Chestnuts." 
 
 My beloved Mother. — I forgot to mention your birthday 
 when I last wrote, but you know bow glad I am that you 
 were born ! and how much I prize every year that is 
 added to your life ; and now as this will find you at dear 
 Mary's, please give her my fond love aad best wishes for 
 this day, and I shall drink her health to-day, and call 
 upon my sons to do the same. I posted my last letter at 
 Montreal on Thursday ; Dick was quite ill that day, and 
 after seeing him twice and shopping, I bid good-bye to 
 Mr. Angus, who went to New York, and then Miss Angus 
 drove me to see poor Mrs. Walter Brown, whose husband 
 was dying at the Hospital. I sent my card in and she 
 asked to see me. 1 did not know her much, but it was 
 very touching, and I felt my heart quite drawn to the 
 poor young woman, who came out with her husband on a 
 pleasure trip, and now has to leave him buried in a far 
 land. He got typhoid fever, and inflammation of the lungs, 
 and was lying unconscious on a hospital bed, while she 
 sobbed on my shoulder, and said " Oh what shall I do P 
 what shall I do P " I asked her if she had any diflBculty 
 about money matters, but she said Captain Douglas Galton 
 'aad called and kindly arranged everything for her with 
 one of our kind hosts at Montreal. Her father was 
 coming out to her as fast as he could, but could not be 
 at New York till the 12th, and her poor husband died 
 that night, and was buried yesterday. After this, which 
 upset me much, 1 went to the Stephens' and met John 
 
 and E and told them, and John went ofip also to see 
 
 Urs. Brown, for Mr. Brown had been a friend of his. The 
 Stephens' house is very gorgeous, and fiill of beautiful 
 
48 
 
 satin-wood walls, and the staircase finely carved mahogany, 
 Mr. Angus' house, too, has much beautiful carved wood 
 about it, but the houses are kept so dark on account of 
 the heat and flies, that one can hardly see well enough to 
 appreciate these beauties. Excepting in this respect, and 
 the amount of carved wood, the atjle is very like the houses 
 of the middle class of well-to-do men in Scotland. 
 
 Friday. — I got up at six, and walked to see Dick, and 
 found him better, and he arranged, if well enough, to 
 follow us to Toronto; then we breakfasted and all the 
 
 family were up to see us off, and we joined John and E 
 
 at the station and arranged ourselves in the Directore' car 
 (Canadian Pacific Railway), a drawing-room with beds 
 (sofas), dining-room and table in centre, a little kitchen, 
 private bedroom, and two lavatories. We had a very hot and 
 dusty journey but were otherwise comfortable, and arrived 
 
 at Ottawa about twelve. John and E went off to lunch 
 
 with Lady Melgund at Bido, but as she did not know we 
 were coming I was not invited, and so Hedley and I 
 lunched in our car, and then drove to lionize the Claudiere 
 Falls, where the Ottawa River falls about two ^'undred feet. 
 The quantity of wood piled about is amazing (lumber they 
 call it; and it chokes up and destroys the effect of the 
 river, but it is not in itself ugly, for they arrange it so 
 beautifully and the colouring is bright. Then we drove 
 to the Government buildings, and there I was agreeably 
 surprised by the beautiful view, not so grand as Quebec 
 certainly, but very fine — the Ottawa, with headlands, 
 well wooded, frequently breaking the line of the river, 
 and the far reach of country vrith blue mountains in the 
 backgroimd, and then the air so deliciously sweet and pure, 
 and reviving. We returned there again in the afternoon, 
 and sat reading till half-past seven, when we returned 
 to our small house and John and E , and the 
 
49 
 
 conductor gave us a capital dinner — champagne and all 
 sorts of good things, and we all enjoyed it. Then we 
 chatted and played whist, and then to bed. Hedley and 
 
 I in the drawing-room, and John and E in small 
 
 room, the maids in diaing-room. I can't say I slept well 
 for they moved our car once, causing our conductor to 
 storm at them for their impertinence, and the arrival 
 and departure of various trains and fog signals, &c., were 
 not calculated to favour one's slumbers ! Hedley declares 
 that a fog signal in the morning did not awake me, but 
 he slept through all. About twelve, Dick arrived from 
 Montreal, much better, and our car was fastened to the 
 train and on we went to Toronto. We all tried to read, 
 but oh ! the shaking, and dust, and heat were overpower- 
 ing ; still it was interesting to see what appeared a 
 primitive country with forests half burned, with stations 
 at " cities " consisting of apparently two or three wooden 
 bouses in the wood — I say apparently, for Sir D. Mac- 
 pherson told me there were splendid farms near the railway. 
 Sometimes we saw a pretty lake with park-like scenery 
 around, and we thought " here we could make a pretty 
 country place." At ten o'clock Saturday night we arrived 
 at Toronto, and Sir David Macpherson and his carriage 
 were waiting for us, and it was so delightful to drive in 
 an open carriage with a lovely moon shining and the 
 sweet, cool air refreshing us, that we were very sorry the 
 
 drive was so short. Lady M and her daughter, 
 
 Miss M , only in their house, which seems like an 
 
 English one in the style of arrangements — servants and 
 conservatories, and greenhouses, Ac, and my bedroom is 
 furnished like a Scotch one, full of pretty quilts and 
 muslin covers, and odds and ends. I was delighted to 
 find myself between two very fine sheets, and slept like a 
 top. Evelyn had a headache and did not get up or go to 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 church. We drove to the nearest and had a nice service 
 and fair sermon from a Mr. de Barr, son of a Canadian 
 
 Judge ; Dick, Miss M , and I stayed to Holy 
 
 Communion, and I was struck with the remarkable 
 number of young people who remained. After luncheon 
 I had a long talk with Sir David. He says we are quite 
 wrong about free trade : as the world is, it should be fair 
 trade, or England will continue to lose, as she is now 
 losing, every year. The Canadians are obliged to have 
 Protection on account of the United States, who would 
 send their manufactured goods by English vessels and so 
 ruin Canadian workshops. No country can grow and 
 prosper which only produces the raw article of food, &c. 
 Land alone cannot make a people rich or great ; he thinks 
 the Conservative party are not half active or energetic 
 enough, and we must have workmen orators stumping all 
 over the country to reach their own class, or we shall lose all 
 influence with those who will really be the ruling power. 
 Here, he says, the Conservatives are two to one in the 
 House of Commons ; the Radicals here abuse their 
 country, and try to hinder and injure all the enterprise 
 which would enlarge its borders and bring emigrants to 
 take possession, and do all they can to lower it in the 
 estimation of outsiders, in hopes that if things come to 
 smash they might have a chance of a reign of power. 
 Doesn't this remind one of some people in our own 
 country? Radicals are called " grits " here, and they say 
 you can recognize a " grit " when you see him, for though 
 they are not at all from one class or one industry, they have 
 heads that might betoken a sojourn in a penitentiary ! 
 
 Monday, September 8lh. — We did not go anywhere last 
 evening but strolled abo\'t the garden. Mr. Brand, son 
 of the late Speaker, Mr. Morris, member of the Senate, 
 and another man, dined. Mr. Morris was Governor of 
 
 I 
 
 
61 
 
 Manitoba. He said in the ja&r 1870 Winnipeg was a 
 little wild village. Now, when I asked him about buying 
 a few things at Toronto for the ftockj Mountains expe- 
 dition, he exclaimed " Oh ! wait until you get to 
 Winnipeg, you can get everything there ! " He described 
 a ball he had given to some royalties (I forget which) 
 and how he had to scour the country for three hundred 
 miles round to get provisions enough for the supper, in 
 the year 1874. In my youth I remember reading of 
 Winnipeg, Fort William and Lake Superior as the out- 
 posts of the Hudson Bay Company, and how travellers, 
 trappers, &c., endured all manner of hardships, and 
 crossed lakes with Indians carrying the canoes from lake 
 to lake, and guiding them through endless swamps and 
 rocky hills, \mtil half-frozen and starved they arrived 
 quite exhausted at these distant forts. Now we travel by 
 rail in a private car, and Mr. Donald Smith has a country 
 house near Winnipeg, to which he invited us, and all 
 along there are " rising cities " which did not exist in any 
 shape five years ago. When this Canadian Pacific Railway 
 is finished to British Columbia, and the Atlantic and 
 Pacific are united by it in one, our " Dominion " then 
 ought to have a splendid future. I don't think I 
 told you about Mr. Van Horn's conversation with 
 me at Montreal — he said " we are a great deal too quiet 
 in Canada; we don't puff ourselves enough or make 
 enough of our advantages and our doings. Why, wo live 
 next door to fifty millions of liars and we muat brag or 
 we shall be talked out." 
 
 Monday, later. — I have jvat returned from a drive with 
 
 Miss M and Hedley to Toronto, and I am surprised at 
 
 its size and importance, and busy look and general air of 
 English prosperity and neatness. Though Montreal is 
 very pretty, the town is too French and idle-looking to be 
 
 D 2 
 
 
52 
 
 impressive — ^there are numbers of well-kept villas and 
 gardens here. We are now going out to see a regatta on 
 
 Lake Ontario and to tbe island. Lady M said last 
 
 night, when making arrangements, " I think this will suit 
 the joung people," and I exclaimed " Don't put me 
 among the old ones, please," so I am going. Sir D— — 
 has gone to Ottawa on Ministerial business. 
 
 September 12th, Niagara Fallt, 
 
 On Tii.esday we drove with John, and Dr. Wilson 
 shewed us over the University and some pretty sketches 
 be had taken. We got berths on board the steamer from 
 Owen Sound on Saturday. It is difficult to find out who 
 manages these things, and we had telegrams going to 
 two or three places before we could make certain of 
 our berths. At four o'clock all sorts of people called, 
 being Lady Macpherson's " at home " day, and many on 
 
 me and E . I don't admire Canadian women etpecially I 
 
 We had fourteen at dinner and a delightful old Irishman, 
 Chief Justice Haggerty, took me in. The Lieutenant- 
 Governor, Mr. Bobinson, though only the Provincial 
 Governor, is treated as the representative of the Queen, 
 and goes before every one. Profe:?90r Godwin Smith and 
 his wife were also of the party. B.> says (but I am sure 
 he is prejudiced and that it is not true) that the Canadian 
 Government is just as corrupt and that there is as much 
 bribery as in the States. Mr. G. Smith difters in opinion 
 with every one, for the Liberal side would not publish his 
 
53 
 
 ' 
 
 i 
 
 
 letters in the papers, and so he s^nt them to the 
 Conservatives, and he says they are far more impartial 
 and just. 
 
 Wednesday^ lOth, — ^We started here at one o'clock, 
 first by steamer on Lake Ontario. It was refreshing after 
 being nearly melted at Toronto, for there was a good 
 breeze. The size of these inland seas strike one much. 
 We arrived at Niagara about four, and found Mr. Plumb, 
 John's quondam friend of eighteen years ago, waiting 
 for us in waggonette, and we drove at once to his pretty 
 house, surroundod by peach orchards and vines, an untidy 
 but pretty garden. He asked after Leonard and Mary. 
 Then we had tea, presided over by his pretty daughter 
 of sixteen, and then the train by his orders stopped for 
 us at his garden door, and, as he informed me, the last 
 time it did so, was for the Prince of Wales ! We arrived 
 here, Clifton House, the Hotel, by a picturesque railway 
 journey, and are opposite the American Falls, and the 
 Horse Shoe Palls are on our right, nearly facing us. 
 Like many other people, I am rather ashamed to confess 
 I am not as much impressed and overwhelmed as I ought 
 to be ! Dick took a note from Mr. Plumb to his nephew, 
 Mr. Macklem, and he arranged to call for us at three. In 
 the morui ■ ve drove to the Bapids and Whirlpool, and 
 went up and down all sorts of queer places in qiieerer 
 elevators. The river looked beautiful, a blue-green colour, 
 and the whirlpool is mysteriously curious, where poor 
 Captain Webb disappeared ! In the afternoon the 
 Macklems took us to the American side on the fine 
 Suspension Bridge, and then to Prospect Park, Goat 
 Island, and different peeps and vistas of the Falls and 
 Bapids. I think the immense breadth and volume of water, 
 with the incessant rush and roar of the river, strike me 
 more than the actual Falls. We saw some rapids between 
 
54 
 
 the islands "Weird Sisters," and finally drove to Mr. 
 Macklem's place, surrounded by rapid streams of the 
 Niagara and very pretty. There seems no end to this 
 river, it has so many turns and arms and rapids. We 
 had tea (by this time I was nearly dead), and three 
 dear small boys appeared; one only two and half had 
 a violin, and he imitated a person playing on it, and 
 made the sounds with his voice in the most amusing 
 clever way, and laughed so merrily when we shouted 
 applause. Mr. Macklem drove us home, and after dinner 
 
 we played whist in E 's nice bedroom. This morning 
 
 I am not well ! We have seen the maids off with the 
 luggage by early rail and boat for Toronto and follow 
 in afternoon. 
 
 Friday, continuing, — I was unable to see anything more 
 of Niagara; the others crossed the ferry. We left at 
 twenty minutes to five, and owing to the steamer being 
 late on Lake Ontaiio we did not reach the Macphersou's 
 till half -past nine. They waited dinner, and we rushed 
 down, at least I did, just twelve minutes after my 
 arrival, and also dressed ! A Mr. Pattison, a very agree- 
 able-looking man, who seems an authority on farming, 
 and a Mr. and Mrs. Plumb (son of our Niagara friend), 
 
 who was once at T P , but I had entirely 
 
 forgotton him. Mr. Pattison spoke of the ignorant, idle, 
 good-for-nothing young men sent out here to make a 
 living by their worried relations, sometimes with scarcely 
 a sixpence, in which case they starved but for the charity 
 of himself and others, or if with any money they fell into 
 bad hands and lost everything. So many are sent here 
 that he has made a kind of home for the destitute. 
 
 Saturday Morning. — Sir David M returned from 
 
 Ottawa, and we breakfasted together. We nearly missed 
 the train at Toronto (not having Miss M to keep us 
 

 65 
 
 in order; I call her Queen Christina, she is so masterful), 
 but just managed to get ourselves and luggage in, 
 and to see George Bunburg, whom I had made several 
 attempts to see before, and who I hear is enterprising 
 and likely to do well. We reached Owen Sound, and got 
 into the steamer all right about three o'clock. Nice 
 farms nearly all along the line. 
 
 Sunday, 14ith September. — I slept pretty comfortably. 
 We got into a narrow passage between Lakes Superior 
 and Huron, which was pretty and curious, great numliers 
 of islands and a very narrow path marked out for steamers, 
 which, as we met several, made the risk of collision 
 seem very imminent ; they moved very slowly, and 
 nave established regular rules of the road, but cannot 
 travel by night, or if a f^if comes on. St. Mary le Soult 
 is a pretty place, on one side American, where they have 
 made a lock to avoid the rapids from Lake Huron to Lake 
 Superior. We waited some time to get into the lock, 
 and then found ourselves in the largest lake in the world, 
 five hunded miles long by three hundred and fifty miles 
 wide. Of course, it is like the sea, and while I am 
 writing it is rough enough to make it difficult. No land 
 is in sight. I have had a talk with an Archdeacon who 
 lives near St. John's College, Winnipeg, and is reading 
 " Natural Law ; " it is really getting very rough and I 
 must stop. 
 
 Tuesday, 16th. — I am writing in the train, and I am 
 thankful to be alive in it. We arrived at Port Arthur 
 at eight o'clock yesterday, 16th, but could hear nothing 
 of our private car, and when the train arrived no car 
 still to be seen. At last, after himting about and asking 
 everyone, it turned up, and was very satisfactory. Two 
 men were there to wait on us, and it was well provisioned, 
 and we set off about an hour and-half late, but no one 
 
66 
 
 minds such a trifle in these parts. At first the line was 
 fairly straight and smooth, but then the country became 
 wonderfully wild, with rocky hills covered with stumpy 
 trees and undergrowth of brilliant colouring, and wooded 
 lakes without end. In and out we wound, sometimes over 
 most light and primitive bridges, and over higL embank- 
 ments, often running along the margin of the lakes, 
 consisting of loose sand, which frequently rolled down the 
 sides as we went over them. It luined nearly all day, 
 and towards night it poured and was pitch dark. I was 
 just undressed, and congratulating myself that we had 
 been standing still at a station, and so I had been able 
 to do it comfortably, and just got into my sofa bed, with 
 Dick and Hedley opposite me behind their curtains, when 
 we set o£F, and in a few minutes I felt a violent con- 
 cussion; so many jerks come in common course that I 
 was not frightened, but we stopped, and then our head 
 man came to the door and said with dignity, " I think it 
 right to announce to you, my lady, that an accident has 
 happened." " What is it ? " " The engine went over 
 a culvert bridge all right, but the baggage waggon next 
 to it fell down off the line, and as we were going slowly 
 they put on the brake and no other carriage followed." 
 "Can we go on to-night?" "Oh no, the roadway is 
 broken up." This was a shock to my nerves, but at 
 any rate we were safe for the night, and after running 
 
 in and telling John and E , we soon all fell asleep. 
 
 During the night they tacked on an engine, with its 
 great lamp eye at the back of our car (we are the last 
 carriage), and every few minutes this monster gave a 
 tremendous snort, but nothing awoke Hedley, who slum- 
 bered peacefully through it all. We got up early, rushed 
 off to the scene of the disaster, as did all the other 
 passengers. It was marvellous that the engine went 
 
 

57 
 
 over that bridge, for really the rails were almost suspended 
 in mid air, but fortunately for us it did, or we should 
 have followed and telescoped, and probably been hurt 
 or killed, the baggage waggon being suspended between 
 the engine and cars, all en one side and down the bank 
 close to the lake, the window broken through wl 'ch the 
 guard jumped out. We trembled for our luggage, which 
 was all there. The lakes and gaily coloured hills that 
 elsewhere I should admire, make our railroad so dangerous 
 that we have to creep along, sometimes over long spidery 
 wooden bridges, and again on most shaky and uncertain 
 looking embankments, and round sharp comers; every 
 now and then we stop for no apparent reason, and then 
 all rush to the platforu, of our car to see what is the 
 matter. Once a party of the railway officials got out and 
 run back ; we thought some of our luggage had fallen out, 
 but it seems one of the bridges over which we had just 
 passed was rather shaky, and they went to investigate. 
 If we had gone on last night we meant to be detached 
 at Rat Portage, or Lake of the Woods, but now we go 
 on to Winnipeg if, please God, we can get there. 
 
 Wednesday 17th. — Soon after writing yesterday, our 
 steward came in with a solemn face and said: "I have 
 unpleasant news to communicate ; a wire has just come 
 to forbid the train crossing the tressel bridge in front 
 of us, so every one must walk, and the luggage be 
 carried over." The railroad is only lately completed, anu 
 they have had no experience hitherto of the effect of 
 heavy rains. Some of the bridges are only temporary 
 ones, but no doubt it will be a good and safe line soon. 
 When one considers the country it passes through, and 
 the difficulties of all sorts that they have had to encounter, 
 I think the Canadian Pacific Railway Company and 
 engineers, &c., deserve great credit. " There is a train to 
 
58 
 
 meet us on the other side of the bridge to take us on to 
 Winnipeg ; " upon which there was a general outci7. 
 " Part with our comfortable car and provisions ? Forbid 
 the thought ! " " How long will it take to repair the 
 bridge ? " "I dont know at all ; it may be d .ys or a 
 fortnight." After confabulating with the conductor of 
 the train, we settled to remain this side of the bridge, 
 and be shunted off till it was repaired, and tacked on 
 to a train again for Winnipeg. We went as far as the 
 bridge, and a curious scene was before us ; the passengers 
 for Rocky Mountains on the other side had been waiting 
 there for hours, our train being delayed by the accident, 
 and they proved to be some of our long lost friends of 
 the British Association; we greeted each other with 
 effusion ; they rushed on our car, and spoke all at once 
 about the glories of the Bockies and the dangers they 
 had escaped, and the fun they had, &c. Some conducted 
 me to the bridge to see what had happened there ; con- 
 sidering that there was a great gap in the bridge, and 
 the tressels were lying about anyhow, and a great iron 
 crane hung suspended over the hole by one hook, and 
 the engine lay on its side below, the wire message telling 
 us it would not be safe to go over was rather ironical ! 
 AH the luggage of the two trains was spread all over the 
 rocks and bushes, and people running here and there, 
 the silent lake so pretty and lovely in contrast. The 
 men with the crane were coming to our assistarce at 
 Vermillion Bay (where our culvert bridge gave way), 
 and the engineer felt the tressels bending as the engine 
 crossed, and was considering whether to jump off or stay ; 
 he decided to remain in the cab of the engine, as the jump 
 was a very high one, and down they went to the bottom, 
 but the men were only cut and bruised, and one broke his 
 leg. This accounted for the delay in our getting 
 
 I 
 
M 
 
 o 
 
 assistance, and fortunately for us all, that our small 
 accident happened when it did. As our friends from 
 Winnipeg thankfully exclaimed, "if it had not been 
 for your accident, which was happily so harmless, we 
 should have gone over that bridge, and as our train 
 was faster and heavier there would probably have been 
 a greater smash ; " and we exclaimed, " but for our 
 comparatively harmless accident, we should have gone 
 over that bridge that night and como to great grief." 
 Wasn't it a mercy we escaped P We had Professor Boyd 
 Dawkins, Professor Shaw, Mr. de Hamel, Bishop of 
 Ontario, Mr. Stephen Bourne, Ac, on our car for some 
 miles on our way back, and then we were shunted on a 
 siding to wait as patiently as we could. At this Hawk 
 something station we parted with our British Association 
 friends, with many good wishes and waving of Lard- 
 kerchiefs, and were left shunted on the edge of a 
 disagreeable embankment over the lake. After all this 
 excitement we read, had dinner and played whist ; then 
 made our own beds, and all the ' boys ' slept in the 
 
 drawing room with me last night, and E had the 
 
 state cabin to herself. It was very cold in the night, 
 and T had to hunt up another rug. We breakfasted at 
 half-past eight, and now the others are taking a walk 
 while I write. I forgot to say Gibson and Roberts went 
 on with our luggage, . rose the bridge (or rather, by 
 its side), in the train w^ich returned to Winnipeg, and 
 there they will stay till we return from the Rockies. 
 
 E and the boys are just off in the cab of an engine 
 
 exploring to the broken bridge. It will be fun, perhaps, 
 for them, but / find I have frights enough to endure 
 in our necessary journeys. There is actually a cow at 
 this station, so we had milk for porridge and tea; 
 moreover, there is a piece of ploughed land, a rare 
 
60 
 
 sight in this wild stony watery country. The Canadian 
 Pacific Railway have not had experience before this 
 autumn of the effect of heavy rains on their road, bridges, 
 &(i., and things have sometimes come to giief in con- 
 sequence ; some bridges are very good and not temporary. 
 
 Later. — Since writing the foregoing, John and E 
 
 and Hedlcy went off on the cow-catcher of an engine for 
 two or three miles excursion ! Dick did not " paddle his 
 own canoe," but the station master did for him on the lake 
 here, and he nearly succeeded in catching a large trout ! 
 He and I wandered afterwards on the Rocky Hill, and 
 picked enough blueberries for dinner, and I refreshed 
 my eyes with some lovely-berried red-leaved little shrubs. 
 Since luncheon a telegram came, telling us we might go 
 over the bridge, and so off we went, and on ariving 
 walked all about, some sketching the fallen engine, &c. 
 Wc set off with Mr. Egan the manager, in his car in 
 front of us, en route for Rat Portage, where I am finishing 
 this journal up to this date, Wednesday, September 17th. 
 It is lovely weather now, and this place is very pretty, 
 and looks quite civilized after our wilderness kind of 
 scenery. Mr. Egan is now going on to Winnipeg, and 
 will post this for me. After our return from the Rockies 
 to Winnipeg, we shall go to Chicago, Washington ai d 
 Philadelphia, where write. 
 
 Scltet ITo. 6. 
 
 September 21st, 1884. — I am beginning this in our 
 car en route to the Rockies, in fact with their snow- 
 covered summits well in sight. I posted a letter to 
 
61 
 
 you, No. 6, at Winnipeg, and also a newspaper for Mary. 
 Trom Winnipeg the Canadian Pacific Eailway is much 
 more comfortable, for on the boundless flat of the 
 prairies there is no ne'jd for many tressel bridges or 
 crumbling embankments, and we went along without 
 fear, excepting that in the neighbourhood of settled 
 parts, we had to look out for cows. Once we stopped 
 very suddenly (their brakes are so good in America), 
 having near gone over one in the dark. They use 
 sometimes a curious kind of sound from the engine, 
 not unlike the moo of a cow in distress, and I saw 
 it effectually drive some off the line. The maids met 
 us at Winnipeg Station, and seemed anxious to go to 
 the Eockies, so we settled they might, and they rushed 
 back for their things, but they returned only in time 
 to see our train off ! On the whole we thought it was 
 as well they had not come, for maids don't generally 
 like this kind of life, and we did not need them. We 
 changed cooks at Winnipeg against my wish, but the 
 others were not satisfied with our first one, and we 
 have certainly not changed for the better; he is a 
 coloured man called David, a.nd has been ill, or 
 pretends to be, since yesterday, and another coloured 
 man whom, we call Jonathan, comes in to help him. 
 
 Saturday. — We arrived at Moose Jaw after a very 
 rocking journey, so bad that I could not sleep, and sat 
 in a chair part of the night ; at last, however, the cold 
 and sleepiness overcame all fear, and I slept in my bed 
 soundly. We saw lots of Indians in red and white 
 blankets, ugly and uninteresting creatures. We made 
 acquaintance with the Eoman Catholic Archbishop, who 
 has been travelling in the car next to ours. He is a 
 French Canadiaji, but talked English well. He is very 
 pleasant. He introduced me to two priests, one of 
 
62 
 
 whom had been working among the Indians thirty 
 years. Afterwards he had a talk with John, and 
 remarked upon my youthfulness to be his mother. Of 
 course, I am always being taken for his wife, and they 
 seem very much puzzled about it altogether. 
 
 Saturday night, the 20th. — We reached Calgai-ry after 
 a quieter night — quite an important city. A good many 
 wooden houses, two or three churches (I think the 
 congregations must be very small in each), and on 
 Sunday morning all the inhabitants were out in their 
 best, the men loafing and smoking about, and quite 
 smart-looking young ladies showing their finery with 
 great enjoyment, as they do at home. A mounted 
 police officer drove a pair of good horses to meet 
 some of his men, and there are cavalry barracks here 
 for them. The train twice a week from Winnipeg is 
 their only communication with the outer world, so 
 when it arrives everyone, even from long distances, 
 crowds the platform. We always take a walk at these 
 resting places, but it is nervous work to go far, as th'^ 
 train starts without any notice, and they never keep 
 to the time named. 
 
 Wednesday, September 26th. — After leaving Calgarry, 
 which I forgot to say is near a coal mine (Mr. de 
 Winton, son of Sir IVancis, has a ranche near), and is 
 likely to be an important place some day, we went to 
 Laggan, which is well into the mountains, and there we 
 saw Professor George Ramsay, brother of Sir James, and 
 he told us to get hold of the contractor, Mr. Eoss, who 
 would help us about going further on. The railway 
 people, &c., all said to our great disgust that ladies would 
 not be allowed to go down the steep incline to British 
 Columbia; upon this we found out Mr. Eoss, and he 
 kindly consented to take us down the Pacific slope in his 
 
63 
 
 own car. At first the boys said / had better remain 
 behind in our own car, but I felt that if there was a risk 
 I would rather encounter it with them, and I wanted to 
 see more of the country, so we prepared to start on 
 Monday, but it poured, and Mr. Ross would not go till 
 Tuesday. We took a small bag with night-gown, brush 
 and comb, &c., and left the rest of our goods in charge 
 of the odious, but I think honest, David, and started 
 yesterday morning in Mr. Ross's car, in some respects a 
 more convenient one than ours, for it has a writing table 
 and a stove in the sitting room after an early breakfast 
 at half-past seven. It was a glorious sunny day. We 
 had two engines reversed, one before and one behind, and 
 no end of brakes with safety ' switches,' every now and 
 then to be turned on and to send us up hill if the engines 
 ran away with us, and we crept down very slowly. It was 
 very exciting, and the scenery magnificent, vistas of 
 snowy mountains opening continually as we turned the 
 comera, covered with brilliant yellow and red and purple 
 foliage ; and when we came to the foot of Mount Stephen 
 (called after Mr. George Stephen, of Montreal), Mr. Koss 
 said, "we ought to call one mountain Eayleigh." I 
 exclaimed, " Oh, yes ! There is a beautiful snow one 
 which has been in sight all the way coming down, let 
 
 that be Raleigh." And so it was agreed, and E and 
 
 I sketched it. Afterward Mr. Ross said, "Eayleigh 
 has quite a family after him," a curious succession of 
 gradually decreasing tops, and we agreed that they 
 should be his fiue brothers. At one place we went down 
 to a bridge, very high over a river, and I thought, "it 
 would be unpleasant if the engine runs away here," 
 but curiously enough I was not at all nervous, for 
 I felt so much care was taken, and it was a glorious 
 day, and the scenery lifted one's soul above the small 
 
64 
 
 things of life here, and made one think of Him who 
 created all these wonders, and yet became our human 
 friend and sympathizer, and now lives to give us bye 
 and bye even " greater things than these ! " At last 
 we got to the Flats all safe, and then John and Dick 
 walked to the end of the "construction," about five 
 miles. If one was prepared to ride and rough it ex- 
 ceedingly, one could reach the Pacific in ten days, but 
 ladies could not undergo the hardships, and we would 
 not be left alone. Mr. Eoss informed us that we must 
 return soon to Kicking Horse Lake and Laggan, as 
 there would be no train later. However, we said that 
 John was extremely anxious to see the working of the 
 line at the end, and it would be a great pity for him not 
 to have the time, and " could wo stay the night ? " He 
 
 replied, " certainly." Hedley and E walked on at a 
 
 great pace after the other two, beyond my powers, and 
 I sauntered on quietly alone, only meeting a few men, 
 belonging to the railway in most cases and working 
 on the line, which is the only road which one can walk 
 on comfortably hero, and I got three miles, but then 
 a horrid bridge stopped me, as I hate walking on planks 
 far apart over a height without a helping hand. I have 
 been all along struck with the far superior accent and 
 good English of the working men in America (Canada 
 especially) ; they have often very good features, too, and 
 wear a well-shaped moustache, and meet one with a 
 smile. They treat one as equals, but they are not at all 
 rude, and are always willing to help. I spoke to some in 
 my solitary walk, and only that they were hard at work 
 hammering in nails, &c., I should have liked to "tell them 
 a story." They all returned from end of "construction " on 
 
 a truck train, Dick and E on an open car, and Hedley 
 
 and John in the cab of the engine. We then dined ; 
 
65 
 
 such a fat coloured man Mr. Boss has in his car ! He 
 could hardly squeeze through the narrow passages, but 
 he managed to give us something to eat. Mr. Ross 
 received a telegram later to say Mr. Angus, our host 
 at Montreal, Mr. Donald Smith, both directors of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway, Mr. Cyrus Field, &c., &c., 
 were at Calgarry, and wanted to come on, so all is 
 arranged for them, and they are expected soon, nd we 
 hope to return with them this afternoon to Laggan, to our 
 
 own car. Last evening E suddenly said, "I wish 
 
 we could sleep in a tentP" Mr. Ross answered, "I can 
 easily manage it for you," and accordingly two men of 
 business (I think contractors for food, &c.), were turned 
 out of their tent, and came to our car, and John and 
 
 E slept in their small tent near the river. I don't 
 
 think they will want to do it again, and I was better off 
 in a nice room all to myself, where I could dress com- 
 fortably, but had not many appliances for that end. We 
 all met at eight o'clock breakfast, and our black man 
 (who looked more than ever like a large bolster, well 
 filled and tied at the top for his head), cooked us an 
 eatable beef-steak, and after this John and Mr. Ross's 
 brother " Jach " rode off to penetrate as far as they could 
 beyond " construction." I am a little nervous about his 
 ride, for the road is a mere track, and very rough, 
 
 however, waggons and mules do travel on it, E has 
 
 made many pretty sketches; mine are scanty and per- 
 fectly horrid. I don't improve at all. The sun is trying 
 to come out. We are on a siding, close to numbers of 
 tents and mules and wagons, a sort of dep6t for provisions, 
 clothes, &c. I have never seen a tipsy man or woman since 
 I landed at Quebec ! and in many parts of Canada alcohol 
 cannot be bought, and the penalty is always severe for 
 selling or giving it to an Indian. Further on I passed 
 
66 
 
 yesterday quite a " city " of tents ; over one was printed 
 " Hotel Fletcher," another, " Restaurant, meals at all 
 hours," "Denver Hotel," "Laundry," "Saloon," &c. 
 These are Bpeculations, and are not connected with railway 
 officials. Some of the men (one was taking a photograph 
 of " the city,") have the American twavj. Mr. Ross is going 
 off directly the directors arrive, far into the interior, on 
 an exploring tour into the Selkirk range, &c. The line 
 is "graded" about fifty miles further on, and the bridges 
 and tunnels are making. They are working the other 
 end from Port Moodie on the Pacific, and will meet by 
 the spring of next year. What a pity the British 
 Association's visit to Canada was not in 1885 instead of 
 18849 Some day they are going to carry the line 
 higher up, so as to avoid the steep incline down which 
 we travelled so cautiously, but they are veiy anxious 
 to get the line done somehow, and it is really wonderful 
 at what a pace they go. 
 
 Calgarry, September 27th. — On Wednesday, 24th, after 
 John had gone off riding, Dick and I waited about for 
 the directors' car, which we expected that morning, but 
 alas! though it arrived at eleven, they only stopped 
 at the telegraph office a moment, took no notice of us, 
 and went on to the end of " construction," returning in 
 about an hour, (John got back much later, and we 
 wondered why Mr. Ross advised him to go, as it obliged 
 him to miss this car) ; they again only made a pause, 
 
 during which Dick spoke to Mr. Angus, and E also 
 
 had a few words with Mr. D. Smith, but she was too 
 modest in urging our claims to be helped on up the 
 incline and they went and left us in the lurch. I heard 
 afterwards that the American part of the company were 
 in a great hurry to get on, Mr. Angus Field having 
 telegrams following him all along the line, but we should 
 

 67 
 
 not have detained them, and they would only have had 
 to drop U8 at Laggan, where our own car was waiting. 
 So we had to wait another night, and all went to bed 
 very grumpy ! 
 
 Thursday, 25th. — After breakfast we walked some 
 way, and then Hedley and I remained at the telegraph 
 station (this is the only source of information in these 
 parts), and the others went on. An hour or two later 
 the freight train began to think of starting up the 
 incline, and Hedley and I got into ti 9 cab of the 
 
 engine. We soon came up with E , who joined us 
 
 there. Some two or three milos further on John and 
 Dick appeared, wildly gesticulating as they stood on 
 the middle of the line to try and stop us, but the engineer 
 declared we were now on too steep an incline, and on 
 we went, much to our dismay, for this entailed thirty or 
 forty miles' walk for rheumatic John and not over-strong 
 Dick. We reached the top all right, and found ourselves 
 at " Kicking Horse Lake," and to our great relief up 
 walked John and Dick. It seems they made a rush at the 
 train as it passed, and John jumped on an open car all 
 right — but Dick caught his foot in a sleeper and fell 
 down, but had the presence of mind to pick himself up 
 very quickly, and caught the last engine (we had one at 
 eacii end) and jumped on the cow catcher ! £ shuddered to 
 think what might have happened to Diok when he fell, 
 but he only got a bruise on his knee and a severe injury to 
 his trousers ! We reached Laggan about half -past one, and 
 found our cook atill much of an invalid, with a real negro 
 to assist him ! I think the negroes are much more manly 
 and altogether pleasanter than the half-breeds, who are 
 mean, discontented, and impertinent when they dare. 
 This negro was a capital servant, and had lived with his 
 present master (to whom he was retui ling after the said 
 
 IS 2 
 
08 
 
 master's absence in Europe) twelve years. We left Laggan 
 at half-past nine, Friday 26th, and had glorious scenery, 
 most of which we had previously passed in the dark. 
 Rocky mountains with their snowy tops all about us, and 
 the lovely yellow and red and purple colouring on their 
 
 sides. E sketched vigorously pud I smudged ! We 
 
 reached Calgarry about five, ''nd ' .-md the Indians in 
 great force, for they had recei' croaty money quite 
 
 lately, and were arrayed in gorgeous blinkets of red and 
 white and blue, and any number of ijold and coloured 
 beads ! They are quiet enough, and don't look at all as if 
 they would venture to scalp us, or make an oration like 
 "Chincanchooke" with dignified eloquence; the expression 
 of the elder ones is unpleasant, and you can see at once 
 the results of even a liltle education by the brighter and 
 happier countenances of the boys and girls. I took a 
 lonely walk on the prairie, over which a strong cold wind 
 was blowing. I saw several people riding in the distance. 
 We left Calgarry on 27th, Saturday, by a t^ain partly 
 freight, and consequently it rocked and Juiaped, and 
 crashed and crunched, and we could scav -y Ciaj whist, 
 or hear each other speak, and when we wf t » I'oc, sleep 
 was banished, at least from my eyes. I waku'" I V':?, atars 
 instead, and the brilliant morning star about thiro r four 
 o'clock shining like a small moon, and then the sun rise 
 over the prairie. We arrived at Winnipeg about six o'clock, 
 on Monday, 29th j our nasty cook had no dinner provided 1 > r 
 us, and though we had authority for remaining that night in 
 the car to sleep, conflicting orders produced all kinds of 
 unpleasantness, and we were shunted about and taken 
 two or three miles off from the der^ where alone we 
 could get anything to eat. After mu :, ' r .t great fuss we 
 were taken back and had a good dinu'^-z at ihe restau- 
 rant, which we enjoyed after our monotonous fare in 
 
 
09 
 
 the car. Our maids, who had been a fortnight at the 
 Hotel doing nothing but spending our money, met us 
 and brought letters, &c. Dick heard from Augusta for 
 the first time — her letters had not reached him. 
 
 LORD RATLSIOH, THE FRBSIDBMT OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION, 
 AND PARTT RETURN FROM THE BOCEIBS. 
 
 Lord Rayleigh, the president of the British Association for 
 the advancement of Science, Lady Rayleigh, Clara Lady 
 Bayleigh, Hon. Hedley Strutt and Hon. Richard Stratt 
 returned yesterday afternoon from the Rockies in a private 
 car attached to the regular train. 
 
 A Times reporter boarded the car about nine o'clock lart 
 night, and had a pleasant chat with Lord Rayleigh and the 
 members of the party. They went to within a few miles of the 
 Columbia River, saw the i-ails being laid on the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway and were very much pleased with the wonder- 
 ful rapidity the work was being done. Lord Rayleigh said he 
 thought the Rockies were one of the wonders of the world 
 — next to the Canadian Pacific, chimed in Mr. Strutt and 
 Clara Lady Rayleigh. The latter said the party were struck 
 with the brightness, intelligence and kindness of the men 
 along the Canadian Pacific Railway line. The kindness they 
 had shown to them would never be forgotten. The party 
 could scarcely believe that the towns along tb*" railway bed 
 grown up to their present size within the pa' b two or three 
 years, as they did not think it possible in a n jw country like 
 this. They were loud in their praises of the country, and 
 predicted that thousands of emigrants would come from 
 England to Manitoba as a result of the Association's visit 
 here. 
 
 The party put up at the Potter House to-day, and will leave 
 for the east to-night. — Winnipeg Daily Times, September 30lh. 
 
 
 Jlettct Wo. 7. 
 
 Washington, Sunday, &th. 
 I was obliged to leave oflF yesterday, and now proceed 
 
70 
 
 to take up the tale begun in the train to Chicago. I was 
 telling you about our arrival at Winnipeg, &c. We 
 returned to our car after dinner and found oursolves, 
 during our first sleep, shunted off to a repairing shed, 
 and presently I heard what seemed a shower of stones 
 thrown all over the car. I could look out of u window 
 sitting up in my bed, and on doing so, I saw two men 
 violently throwing water over it from a hose, and some of 
 it came into my bed, upon which I showed my lovely 
 countenance with dishevelled hair and indignant ex- 
 pression, and called out : " Are you going to drown me in 
 my bed?" and then I heard a man say — "La! there ia a 
 young lady at the window ! don't disturb her ! " however, 
 just at dawn they were at it again, and at six o'clock began 
 to move us into the shed. I jumped up and expostulated in 
 my dressing gown on the platform (all the rest were in their 
 beds) and insisted upon their asking for orders from head- 
 quarters ; just then, fortunately, an early bird in the shape 
 of a representative of the Press appeared, and I got 
 John to talk to him, and he went off to the authorities, 
 and we were shunted to the dep6t again, and so got our 
 breakfast by ten o'clock ; the reporters always think I am 
 
 John's wife (E is generally out of the way), and I 
 
 believe the last idea is, that John and I have a grown 
 
 up family, of which E is one ! It is rather fun to be 
 
 interviewed, and John is now less shy about it, and 
 consents to be pumped (in a measure). After breakfast 
 we all drove in a horse -car up the main street, and were 
 twice off the rails and sunk into a mud hole, and the boys 
 had to help in lifting the omnibus out of it. They are 
 slowly paving the streets, but there never was such a 
 muddy lane calling itself a street anywhere before, I am 
 sure ; there are nice shops, however, and respectably 
 dressed people walking or driving. We lunched and 
 
71 
 
 cleaned ourselves at Potter House, where the maids had 
 been living during our absence in the Bockies, and it 
 seems Mrs. Smith, the landlady, came from Lady Ward's, 
 and knew the Claughtons, and lived for years with the 
 Miss Bakers at Ross, (these unexpected encounters 
 make one realize how narrow the world is). The country 
 is ugly about Winnipeg, and so after paying a visit to the 
 Archdeacon, whom we met in going there some fortnight 
 ago, and seeing his nice house and wife, we dined at the 
 depot and left for Chicago ; our coloured cook was walking 
 and dawdling about apparently quite well, now that he 
 had got rid of us. We had sleeping berths in the train— 
 an unknown man slept in the one over mine, and I had to 
 dress and undress behind the curtains of my own. We 
 breakfasted at Bamsville Wednesday morning, and that 
 evening stopped in poiiring rain at Milwaukie; it is a finely 
 situated town, but the station had been lately burnt down, 
 and we were very cold and uncomfortable for two hoiirs. 
 Poking about to amuse themselves, the boys saw a large 
 long deal box, directed Mrs. J. Stacey, and on a card 
 attached, " This is to certify Mr. J. Stacey did not die of 
 any infectious complaint." So he was waiting there to be 
 sent on to her by next train, and we hope she got him 
 safely, 
 
 Thursday, Two o'clock p.m., we reached Chicago. Minnie- 
 appolis, which we passed through, is likely to be a fine 
 city. We went to the Grand Pacific Hotel and were 
 separated by long corridors and staircases, and spent our 
 time chiefly in trying to find one another amidst its vast 
 solitudes. Of course one never sees a chambermaid, or 
 any one, and the quantity of little dishes and fine sounding 
 names which one is served with at meals does not make 
 up for the other discomforts. 
 
 Friday, 3rd. — John had a letter to the pork-killing man, 
 
72 
 
 Mr. Armour, and he kindly sent two carriages for us, 
 ■with an assistant, who was to lionize us about. We drove 
 first to the Bank and got some money, and then through 
 the best parts of the town, along the Michigan Boulevards, 
 through which we had glimpses of the Lake, but every- 
 thing here is sacrificed to the almighty dollar, and the 
 railway engines poke themselves in everywhere, down the 
 best streets, and destroying the prettiest landscapes, and 
 making unearthly noises close to your bedroom, or puffing 
 their steam out under your nose as you walk. 
 
 Chicago looks a more bustling, and a newer and a more 
 railroad-dominated place than Glasgow, but like it in 
 smoke and business aspect. As to the Boulevards, the 
 houses are most of them new, and some in startling styles 
 of architecture. Some in red, which are very good. One 
 was nearly finished of white marble, quite a palace, with 
 more ground than usual round it ; but alas, for human 
 hopes, the man who owns it and millions of dollars, has 
 lately been pronounced mad, is in the care of a wife whom 
 he lately married, and who does not care for him, and he 
 will die before his marble palace is finished. There are 
 no prettinessee, flowers, &c., about these fine houses, 
 perhaps accounted for by the forty or fifty degrees below 
 zero which they sometimes enjoy at Chicago. After six 
 miles driving we got to the Piggery, &c., and the least said 
 about that the better; it is certainly wonderful, but 
 disgusting — the most interesting parts were the enormous 
 yards containing cattle, all arranged comfortably, with 
 hay and water, &c., and the tin-making business for the 
 preserved meats (the tin all comes from England). Travel- 
 ling for the last three or four weeks we have seen little 
 hills of tin boxes perpetually along the line, as the 
 people in the trains and stations, &c., seem to live almost 
 entirely on tinned goods. After this we had a hasty 
 
73 
 
 luncheon, and I decided to accompany John and E 
 
 here, and not wait for Dick who wanted to staj longer. 
 We could not find our maids to tell them, and I had to 
 pack a great deal myself, meaning to leave Gibson to 
 foUow with the rest, but they turned up at last, and we 
 had a great scrimmage to get off in the "bus." John 
 thought we might not have time to check our luggage, 
 and BO began to seek for tickets to give the maids, but he 
 could not understand them, so a kind American in the 'bus 
 explained hem, and after all we were in time, thanks 
 
 again to the said American, who passed E and me 
 
 to the train, assuring the railway people that he had seen 
 our tickets, and he also got us into the sleeping car. 
 When I was thanking him warmly, I added, " You must 
 be amused to see such distracted English travellers P " 
 " Well," he answered, " we are as bad in your country till 
 we are used to it." After a great deal of shaking and 
 going a great pace round many curves, which quite 
 prevented us sleeping, we got here (Washington) yes- 
 terday at six o'clock. A man met us who was sent by 
 an astronomer friend of John's, and brought us to this 
 hotel, Wormley's. On our way in a spic and span 
 omnibus we felt going down on one side, and found a 
 wheel had come of. We jumped out, and a crowd 
 collected, and finally we had to transfer our baggage and 
 ourselves into another omnibus, and got through some hand- 
 some wide streets, with trees each side and good shops, to 
 this hotel. Our first view of Washington was a lovely one, 
 coming in with the Potomac river in front, and the fine 
 Capitol on a hill, backed by a glorious red sunset, which 
 reflected all in the river ; it looked like an Italian scene. 
 This is said to be a " city of magnificent distances," being 
 planned for future greatness, and very like Paris in con- 
 ception. We found acquaintances here, and John went 
 
74 
 
 with one to the Observatory. This morning we all went to 
 the American Episcopal Church, St. John's, rather "high," 
 but nothing really objectionable. Thie is the centenary of 
 the consecration of the first American Bishop, Dr. Siebury, 
 Bishop of Connecticut, vvho, after having implored our 
 Bishops in London to consecrate him, went at last to 
 Scotland, and " there in an upper room received Apostolic 
 orders from the Scotch Bishops, then called non-jurors." 
 We were all struck with the lii^ndsome featiu-es of both 
 men and women in church. In company Avith a great 
 many others, we remained to Holy Communion, and I 
 don't think I ever enjoyed it more than among these 
 brethren — strangers, and separated by the wide Atlantic 
 from our English Church, but joined to us by "one 
 Lord, one faith," &c. After luncheon John had a chat 
 with a French scientist, and Mr. Eutherford and his 
 handsome son, and General and Mrs. Strachy, and 
 Professor Adams, the astronomer ; many of these people 
 are here in concla e about Greenwich time, &e. John 
 
 and E are now oOne driving about with his friend. 
 
 It is very hot, and poor Hedley is quite knocked down, 
 but we took a little walk. 
 
 Later. — Aft^^r dinner a good many adjourned to the 
 drawing-room. Captain and Mrs. Ray, the Strachya, 
 Eutherfords, &c. We ha,d a scientific experiment with 
 the shadow of the moon. Mr. Eaytold a curious story of a 
 wasp. He saw it advance slowly to a great spider, which 
 the wasp apparently completely mesmerised, and then the 
 wasp carried him off to a little house he had made, and 
 deposited the spider next an egg, then another egg, and 
 a gain another spider, till there was a long row alternately, 
 then the larvre awoke to life, and lived upon the spiders, 
 who remained fat and well-liking, mA apparently alive 
 up to that point. Captain Ray says he believes Mr. Scott 
 
75 
 
 is right in saying that the American side will never be 
 able to give us warning of storms which will be of any 
 use, for not more than one in ten of their storms reach 
 us ; our storms come from the North and Mid- Atlantic. 
 Captain Eay fills +he same post here that Mr. Scott 
 does in London, meteorological and weather prophet. 
 Presently a nigger of fine appearance, with a companion, 
 played the banjo and sung. It was really very pretty, 
 and we stood at the porch listening, and numbers of 
 white-robed figures appeared on the opposite side (the 
 young women so arrayed walk about a good deal these 
 hot nights), and a little crowd gathered round us. It is 
 surprising how little music and amusement they seem to 
 have. 
 
 >^eHev ilo. 8 
 
 Washm'jUn, Wormley'a Hotel, Monday, 6ih. 
 
 The weather has i)een " excoi>tionally " hot, they say, 
 for the time of year, Hedley quite unnble to do anything. 
 John went up the Monument, five humued feet, and I went 
 with Gibson to see the Capitol. The dome looks pretty 
 from a distance, but the wliole thing strikes me as large, 
 handsome, uninteresting and vulgar ; we inspected the 
 Congress Hall and Senate Chafi her. The view from 
 the terrace was fine. At f o'clock Hedley and I 
 accompanied Mr. Strachy to Arlington Heights, where there 
 is a large cemetery for soldiers. It was formerly the country 
 home of General Robert Lee, the hero of the Confederate 
 War. It was intensely melancholy to drive through the 
 graves of eleven thousand and odd soldiers, all killed in the 
 second battle of Bull's Eun (I believe), two thousand of them 
 
76 
 
 A 
 
 unknown, and buried in one grave, mostly young volunteers 
 ■who had just joined. Each white stone told the story of 
 the bereaved families, and the destruction of so much 
 happiness. The view of the Potomac and Washington 
 is very fine, and one thought sorrowfully of the poor Lees 
 who gave up their pretty home and all else, for the sake 
 of Virginia, and in vain ! 
 
 Tuesday, 7th, — John and E and I went to Mount 
 
 Vernon, Washington's residence and tomb. H some- 
 how missed us, which quite spoilt my day. The air 
 in the steamer was delightful, and the Potomac is mildly 
 pretty. We were left at Mount Vernon, and I was 
 disgusted with the shabbiness and untidiness of the 
 tomb of the great patriot ; that even in his case such a 
 want of sentiment and reverence should be shown does 
 not speak well for his countrymen. I spoke of this to 
 many people afterwards, and they say it is owing to his 
 family, who would not allow the tomb to be moved. 
 In the evening we dined with our Minister, Mr. West, at 
 the Embassy. It is a fine house, and we enjoyed our 
 evening. There were only Mr. Johnstone and Mr. Helier 
 attached to the Legation, besides ourselves. Mis3 West 
 now presides over her father's house, and is very attractive ; 
 brought up in a convent in Paris, and speaks English with 
 a strong accent. Miss West has given me some letters 
 of introduction to people at Newport. They showed us 
 some curious beans, which jumped about in an odd way 
 when held over the light a little while. It is said there 
 is a worm inside, which is influenced by the warmth. 
 
 Wednesday. — We meant to leave to-day, but Dick 
 turned up unexpectedly from Chicago, and we put off 
 going to Philadelphia tbat we might start together. 
 We ^wmt over the White House to-day, where the 
 President lives, and saw the blue room in which he receives 
 
77 
 
 every one, rather ugly I thouglit it, and the bedroom 
 in which President Garfield was ill, &c. In the afternoon 
 
 John and E went to Baltimore, as he has scientific 
 
 acquaintances there, and I don't know when we shall meet 
 again. 
 
 Thureday. — Hedley has just returned from Dick's hotel, 
 and says he does not go to Philadelphia to-day, so we start 
 alone at two o'clock. Last night two violent showers of 
 rain cleared the atmosphere, and it is quite cool and 
 
 pleasant this morning. I heard from Mr. B from 
 
 Baltimore, and he says he is going to be married on the 
 15th, and hopes we will go to pay them a visit on the 16th; 
 however, as the time does not suit, and I don't know his 
 intended wife, I have declined. 
 
 Friday, lOth, Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia. 
 
 Last night I had the great pleasure of receiving four 
 
 letters — one from you, and one from C and Mary, and 
 
 Margaret. We left Dick behind at Washington, but he 
 arrived last night ; the journey was a pleasant one and 
 the scenery pretty, especially Chesapeake Bay. I hear 
 mosquitos swarm at Baltimore and so I am glad we did 
 not go there. This is a very large hotel and I am on 
 seventh floor, No. 760 ! Close to me is a fire escape, which 
 I carefully investigated. We got cheated coming here 
 from the station, and «o did Dick, to our great triumph ! 
 The country coming here was more English and well 
 populated than any we have seen. Going up in the lift 
 who should I find there but Dr. Gladstone, one of our 
 fellow passengers on the " Parisian ; " we all laughed. Since 
 I began this a very kind note has come by hand from 
 
 Mr. Childs, of the Public Ledger, saying Mrs. C is at 
 
 New York, but he will try to get her back on Saturday ; 
 he is coming to call at a quarter-past two, and offers us 
 carriages to drive about. 
 
78 
 
 Half-past One. — We have just come back from seeing 
 the Roman Catholic Cathedral — not much worth seeing 
 excepting a beautiful picture of our Lord as a Child 
 among the doctors. We also saw the Academy of Arts, 
 but there was nothing we cared for. I have had a kind 
 note from Mrs. James Neilson, who hopes to see us at 
 New Brunswick, en route for New York. 
 
 Sunday, 12th. — Mr. Childs came, a short, stout man, 
 and very kind; he sent the carriage at three, and we 
 drove in Fairmount Park, the largest park in the world, 
 and really very pretty ; saw conservatories and gardens 
 with bright, but only foliage, plants — wonderful perillas, 
 altemantheras, tresine, &c. It was a most lovely evening 
 and we enjoyed the three hours' airing; it was perfectly 
 clear and still, with sunshine and fresh balmy air. 
 Yesterday (Saturday) directly after breakfast we went as 
 by appointment to Mr. Childs' office ; ue has a beautifully 
 fltted-up room, filled with all kinds of curiosities, — Tom 
 Moore's harp, Washington's chair, Louis Napoleon's cup 
 and saucer, splendid clocks of all kinds ; one of them 
 belonged to Lord Howe, which he had to leia.ve behind 
 him when he was " obliged to run away from the States 
 in such a hurry ! " Mr. Childs' seemed to think I must 
 know all about this, but I am afraid I had quite forgotten 
 that humiliation. This reminds me of a story I heard 
 lately of an American lionizing an Englishman about ; 
 they came within sight of Bunker's Hill, and the American 
 as delicately and modestly as he could announced : " TJiat, 
 sir, is Bunker's Hill," the Englishman put up his glass 
 and looked, and then said : " And who was Bunker, and 
 what did he do on his hill ? " Imagine the American's 
 indignation at this gross ignorance ! To return to 
 Mr. Childs' room ; while there several ladies called, and 
 among them Mrs. Bloomfield Moore ; she talked well and 
 
79 
 
 we made friends, and she proposed to call for us and take 
 us a drive, to which we agreed. After she had gone 
 Mr. Childs told me she was a poetess and a millionaire, 
 and was supposed to be engaged to Browning the poet. 
 A man was then told off to escort us over the build- 
 ing, and a wonderful place it is. All the printing and 
 editorial work and " job " work so beautifully arranged 
 and everything in such perfect order. The Public Ledger 
 prints about 80,000 a day, or rather night, and 
 Mr. Childs is the proprietor. Almost all the American 
 news comes to us from his office from a Mr. Cook, who 
 telegraphs it to the Times. Mr. Cook told me that all the 
 speeches at the opening of the British Association 
 meeting at Montreal — Lord Lansdowne's, Sir William 
 Thomson's, &c., — were telegraphed to London before they 
 were delivered, John's address had been left in London 
 before he started. Mr. Cook got the substance of these 
 speeches beforehand. After this we went to the Electric 
 Exhibition going on here, and Dick tried an organ ; then 
 
 we had a drive with ; she talked all the time 
 
 and told me all about her husband and his will, and how 
 astonished everyone was to find what immense confidence 
 in her it proved ; she knows Mrs. Capel Cure and Miss 
 Western, and she has just bought a good house in 
 London. She is much interested in Mr. Keally (the 
 inventor of Keally 's motor), and has supported him 
 through all the incredulity and opposition he has met 
 with ; she believes he has discovered a new force, and has 
 just made some experiments before ten or twelve people, 
 in which without any apparent power of machinery he 
 produced astonishing results, not electric and not com- 
 pressed air, or, if the latter, he has found out a way of 
 producing wonderful power without the usually necessary 
 accompaniments. This is what / hear ; he says it is a 
 
80 
 
 force in ether, which is a medium separating atoms, but 
 he will not tell his secret till he has taken out his patents. 
 Mr. Ghilds sent us some tickets for the opera here, and I 
 
 gave Mrs. A. B one, and we ail went, the music 
 
 was pretty and singing good. Mr. Bosengarten, a friend 
 of Mr. Childs, came into the box, and between one of 
 the acts asked me if I would like to see some typical 
 American political meetings ? I said " Oh, yes ; " so he 
 carried me off, and the boys followed, to n. splendid opera 
 house, which was crammed to the galleries by a very 
 respectable-looking, quiet audience, listening most atten- 
 tively to the " Prohibition " candidate, who was shouting 
 and apparently pleasing them much, i it being behind 
 him on the platform (they wanted me to go close to him 
 but I would not), I could not hear the point of his jokes. 
 Then we went to the Academy of Music, also a very large 
 place, where a more rowdy lot were listening very quietly, 
 however, to General Butler. Certainly no meetings of 
 such size could take place in England with such entire 
 absence of noise or policemen, or carriages, or cabs. We 
 went to bed very tired having had so much to interest us 
 all day. Mr. Childs, by the bye, has sent me a present of 
 some china and a box full of lovely roses, which I shared 
 
 with the sons and Mrs. A. B . I see I have not 
 
 mentioned before that I received yours and Mary's letter 
 of 28th September, which came very soon after my birth- 
 day. This morning we went to a Presbyterian Church by 
 mistake, but it was very dull and we soon went out and 
 went to another close by, which turned out to be 
 Ritualistic, but at any rate the music, and better still, the 
 sermon, was very good, — " What think ye of Christ P " 
 It was all of Him, so no one could object, not even you ! 
 Hedley and I then rushed off to the Lincoln Institution 
 for Training Indian Girls, where Mr. Bosengarten was to 
 
81 
 
 meet us. It is a very interesting and useful work (the 
 boys are also under training, but we did not see that part 
 of the Institution) and the girls look so thriving and 
 happy, and the teachers say they are above the average in 
 intelligence ; they sung a chant and hymn and gave me a 
 photograph to take home. Mr. Eosengarten offered to take 
 Hedley with him for a drive to see some of his relations, 
 and so I have been alone since — reading, and writing to 
 you. 
 
 -^•••w — e- 
 
 Jeffcr ^0. 9. 
 
 October liih. — I sent my last letter to you on Sunday, 
 and on Monday morning Mr. Childs called and brought 
 me a note from Mrs. Childs saying she was very unwell 
 and her doctor said she must be quiet, and would we 
 defer our visit till Wednesday? I declined this at 
 once, and Mr. Childs seemed very sorry, but when Dick 
 joined us he said we were in no great hurry to leave 
 Philadelphia and might as well stay, so I could only agree 
 to remain till Thursday. He gave us seats at the Theatre 
 to hear " May Blossom " (a pretty good play, which we all 
 enjoyed), and he asked me if I wanted any books to read? 
 I said " Yes, I should be very glad of some," thinking he 
 would lend me a few of his own; well, a large parcel 
 soon arrived with a lovely copy of Longfellow's Poems 
 and my name in it, and lots of story books, all new. This 
 morning (Tuesday) our future host at New Brunswick 
 called, a nice-looking, lively man, and we go to them on 
 Thursday — Mr. James Neilson. Yesterday afternoon we 
 
 spent two hours at Mrs. A. B 's, and met Mr. Keally. 
 
 He is a curious person, and looks full of Jire, and I should 
 
82 
 
 say not an impostor, but I should not be surprised if he 
 was mad! He talked away tremendouslj quickly, and 
 used all kinds of new words invented to suit his 
 discovery, and I got quite exhausted trying to under- 
 stand him; all I could really make out was that he 
 professed to have decomposed hydrogen, and evolved a 
 lighter element from it, and that his new force has 
 something to do with vibration; that he multiplies 
 vibrations almost infinitely, and can distinguish divisions 
 of tones in an unusual manner. Those who have seen 
 his experiments lately, declare that no force with which 
 scientists are acquainted could produce the same effects 
 with the machinery used. " If it is a trick," he said, " at 
 any rate it is a trick worth knowing — if a pint of water 
 can send a train from this to New York, which it will 
 do shortly." He employs several people to make his 
 machinery, but when they have made it and used it 
 successfully, they declare they don't know why or hoiv it is 
 done. I am trying to persuade John to stop here on Friday 
 on his way from Baltimore and see one of his experiments. 
 I have heard John say that he expected some great 
 discovery would be made shortly, and in the chemical 
 direction. Mr. Keally is a mechanist, and says he dis- 
 covei'ed this force by accident. It is curiously like the 
 one in Bulwer's novel, which everyone was possessed of 
 
 and could destroy anything in a moment. Mrs. A. B 
 
 is going to take us a drive this afternoon. At present my 
 letters to Newport have only produced an invitation to 
 dine with Mrs. Belmont on Saturday, which we are 
 unable to accept. Hedley enjoyed his Sunday outing 
 with Mr. Eosengarten, and was introduced to heaps of 
 people, and felt quite an important person. He is always 
 miich liked, and T am not surprised. 
 
 Wednesday, Ihth. — At two o'clock we met Mr. Childs 
 
83 
 
 at the station, u-nd v/ent with him to Bryan Maur by rail, 
 and then his carriage met us and took us to his farm and 
 stables, &c., and then to his house ; it is all very new and 
 very tidy and pretty. He told his wife to buy any land 
 she liked four years ago, and build anything she liked on 
 it, and now he has paid the bills and handed her the 
 deeds, and it is all her own. That's the way husbands do 
 things in America ! The wives and children have a good 
 time here, and the working classes, too, have many 
 privileges, or perhaps, I should say, that they share them 
 with the richer and more educated people ; everywhere, 
 in the trains and trams and restaurants of stations and 
 waiting rooms thei-e is equality, and considering all things 
 one does not suifer much by the mixture, excepting that 
 they " level down," and one misses the comforts and quiet 
 of the English railroads. Some of the working men are 
 remarkably fine and intelligent looking, and always quiet 
 and well behaved. I do not observe any very great 
 politeness to women, which I was led to expect was the 
 prevailing hp,bit in the United States, but I notice that 
 the fathers are wonderfully gentle and helpful with the 
 children. Mrs. Childs is a bright little woman, and sings 
 well, which you would scarcely expect when hearing her 
 voice in speaking. It is a pity that so many of the 
 women have such unpleasant voices, and the men have 
 generally nothing harsh in their tones. A captain of one 
 of the Cunard steamers sat next mo, and seeing my distress 
 over a plateful of very large oysters, whispered, " you need 
 not eat them." We had carefully abstained from luncheon, 
 as dinner was at four o'clock, and this was the menu for 
 dinner : soup, big oysters, boiled cod, then devilled crab 
 (which I ate, and it was very good), then very tough stewed 
 beef-steak, large blocks of ice-cream, and peaches, and that 
 was all ! So my dinner consisted of crab, and I was 
 
84 
 
 obliged to tave sometliing to eat on our return to the 
 hotel. Mr. Childs is very rich, and gives away immensely. 
 He shewed me a valuable collection of autographs, &c., 
 given him by Mrs. S. C. Hall, whose husband, now an old 
 man I believe, he partly supports. We left at half -past 
 eight, and this morning, Thursday, 16th, Mr. Childs called 
 early with his picture, framed, as a present. Sir William 
 
 and Lady Thomson, and probably John and E , are 
 
 going to the Childs' on Saturday till Monday, and Mrs. 
 
 B. M , who called, is very anxious that they should 
 
 see the Keally experiments. I hear John and E are 
 
 going to Boston. We are starting this afternoon for 
 Woodlawn, New Brunswick, the Neilsons' place, and 
 to-day I have an invitation from Mrs. Pruyn of Albany. 
 We are about to take our berths on board the Cunard 
 steamer Oregon, which starts on 12th November. I had 
 a great pleasure this mcming in receiving from Clara 
 a large photograph of you and Arthur Paley. It is very 
 nice, and I am very glad she arranged so cleverly for 
 you to be taken ! You don't look quite so miserable and 
 cross, as is your ivont in general when being photographed. 
 
 Clara and S were at a large evening party lately at 
 
 Euston, where they met the Princess Frederica of 
 Hanover, whom I have met several times at dear Katty 
 Maude's, and she inquired about us from Clara. 
 
 Woodlawn, New Brunswick, October 20th. — We arrived 
 
 here Thursday. Mrs. M called and kindly took me 
 
 to the station, and presented me with some beautiful 
 roses, which I brought here unpacked and gave to Mr. 
 
 Neilson. Major R. S spoke to me again at the 
 
 hotel about the Keally motor, and fervently repeated 
 that after a thorough inspection of the machinery he 
 is convinced that a new force is at work. Mr. Neilson 
 and his carriage met us at the station. He is very lively 
 
85 
 
 and full of information, having travelled a great deal, 
 and overflowing with " yo." She is very handsome and nice, 
 and nothing can be kinder than they are. It is a pretty 
 cottage, close to his mother's house, and with some 
 grounds round them. 
 
 Friday, 17th. — We took a long drive, Mr. Neilson 
 driving at a rapid pace, and the river and foliage was 
 pretty, but the scenery here is not remarkable, and the 
 town of New Brunswick does not look rich or flourishing. 
 In the evening we went to his mother's, had tea, oysters 
 and birds, and then a number of people came ; Dr. and 
 Mrs. Cook, Professor of Chemistry, and Mr. and Mrs. 
 and Miss Warren, several Carpenters, who are cousins of 
 the Neilsons, Admiral and Mrs. Admiral Boggs, Dr. and 
 Mrs. Hart. He is a Dutch clergyman of the Dutch 
 church here, and has been at John's laboratory at 
 Cambridge, and talked about him and his work. I 
 observe the gentlemen stand talking to each other a good 
 deal as we do in England. Mrs. Neilson mere is a very nice 
 old lady, with white hair, and something like you. She 
 spoke about my brother Hedley, and tears came into her 
 eyes as we talked ; everyone here seems to have read his 
 memoirs, and I enclose a scrap oat of the New Brunswick 
 paper, which will show you how he is remembered. Mrs. 
 T. Neilson seems a capital housekeeper, and the cooking 
 and everything seems so good and comfortable. Mr, 
 Neilson oTvns most of the town, and is delighted when 
 he can sell some of it, and the neighbours are nearly all 
 his cousins. He says the municipal government of the 
 town, &c., is at a dead lock. Nothing can be done to the 
 roads, (which are disgraceful !) or the streets, which are 
 dreadful everyivhere nearly, that there is perpetual bribery 
 and corruption, and all owing to univoi'sal suffrage, which 
 makes the respectable people quite helpless ! This is the 
 view of all the people I stayed with or spoke to. 
 
86 
 
 On Saturday, 18lh, we made a long excursion to Long 
 Branch, going by train to Redbank, a pretty village, 
 whore we got a carriage and drove to Long Branch, a 
 favourite watering place of this part of the country and 
 New York ; miles upon miles of the sea coast is covered 
 with houses, small and large, in every variety of style, with 
 no trees and quite flat, with a fine sea beyond the sands. 
 It looked like a scene on a stage ! We passed some very 
 pretty bays and creeks, but though the day was bright, 
 the wind blew a gale, and we could not sit about. We 
 lunched at the railway station, with our driver sitting at the 
 next table. It is so funny to find everyone at your elbow, 
 whatever their position may be, but I must say they 
 behave very well. We returned by train, and I managed 
 to catch a chill, and have been in bed most of the morning. 
 The day was so lovely that Mr. Neilson persuaded me to 
 drive with him in his buggy, a very comfortable carriage 
 like a tea cart, and I enjoyed the sweet Indian summer 
 and the pretty foliage with peeps of the river. In the 
 afteniti(<n I went with Mr. Neilson to call on his mother 
 and Mrs. Carpenter, both fine old ladies, and as I said 
 before, old and young women are well taken care of here. 
 
 October 22nd. — Hotel Brunswick, Boston. We left the 
 kind Neilsons yesterday, and as Dick and I were not well, 
 we took drawing-room car seats, which, however, were 
 extremely uncomfortable wicker chairs, which turned round 
 on a pivot with the least movement and made one feel 
 sick ! So I sat on a hard bench usually occupied by con- 
 ductors. This is a fine hotel, and John and E came 
 
 to see me last night after I was in bed; they seem 
 enjoying themselves and are gay, seeing lots of scientific 
 folk at Baltimore and here at Cambridge. They intend 
 starting home on the 1st. We are arranging for berths 
 in the " Oregon," on the 12th. Last night I was surprised 
 
87 
 
 to get a letter from Liza, which had been sent to Evelyn, 
 
 dated October 5th, telling me that No. 90, G waa 
 
 let to Mr. Scott Holland till 8th December! I suppose some 
 letter from Liza has been lost, for I have never hoard a 
 word of it before. The road yesterday waa very pretty, 
 crossing two or three rivers with beautiful colored foliage 
 on their banks, and some fine towns. I enjoy scenery 
 more and more as I get older, and feel more one with 
 Nature, and Nature's God ; the sense of the Eternal and 
 Infinite deepens in my heart, and the grandeur of sky and 
 mountain and river with Ood over all fills me with calm and 
 peace. I am not at all well just now, and have to starve 
 nearly. It is difficult at hotels to get the right kind of 
 food when one is out of sorts. 
 
 I 
 
 DISTISGUISnED PEOPLK IN TOWN. 
 
 To the Editor of the " Home News " .— 
 
 It may be of some interest to your readers to know that we 
 have at present in our midst some distinguished people. Not 
 indeed because they happen to be people of high rank in their 
 own country, but because they represent names standing pre- 
 eminent in the fields of science on the one side of their Louse, 
 and on the other a name cherished in every household as 
 the very embodiment of Christian chivalry, that of a veritable 
 soldier of the cross. 
 
 The Dowiiger Lady Rayleigh (mother of Lord Rayleigh, the 
 President of the British Association), is at present the guest of 
 Mr. and Mrs. James Neilson, at their residence, Woodlawn. She 
 is accompanied by her two sons, the Honorables Richard and 
 Hedley Strntt. The former is married to a dauglitcr of Lord 
 Bragbrook, a member of the Cornwallis family. The Dowager 
 Baroness is a sister of Hedley Vicars, the soldier-missionary 
 of the Crimea, a name as well known and honoured in the 
 households of America as those of Great Britain. 
 
 The party came out to attend tht Scientific Convention of 
 Canada, and have since travelled largely thruiif^h the great 
 
West. Thoy express themselves ontliusiastically as to our pro- 
 gress, material as well as intellectual. 
 
 We take the occasion to congratulate our English cousins 
 upon the phenomenally fine season which they have selected, 
 and trust that they may remain long enough to enjoy the 
 loveliness of our American autumn and Indian summer. — The 
 Bnmswtck Daily Home News, Thursday, October IGth, 1884. 
 
 II > laflLi < II 
 
 Jicttet ilo. 10. 
 
 October 25th, Newport, at " Madame Robertson's." 
 
 Hedley and I and Gibson came here on Thursday, 
 just to see the place, of which I had heard so inxxch, and 
 to acknowledge the offered civilities of some of the people 
 there. We left Dick at Boston not very well, and indeed, 
 I have been quite a wretch lately. Wednesday morning, 
 
 E brought Professor Pickering, and he asked \ia to 
 
 join John and E at his Observatory, and at a party 
 
 given afterwards by Mrs. Pickering, so at 3.80 we set 
 off all in a tram, and Professor Pickering met us about a 
 mile from the house, and a carriage took us to the Ob- 
 servatory, where we saw curious things, and above all, the 
 crescent moon, thrcufifh a powerful telescope, which, 
 oddly enough, I had never seen before. Mrs. Pickering 
 had a large gathering, and I was introduced to quantities 
 of people, some very nice looking and English in tone and 
 manner. In this part of America one would scarcely 
 know that you were not living ai...'^ng the present genera- 
 tion of English transported across the Atlantic quite 
 recently ; the manners of the coloured servants are very 
 objectionable, and the porters of the c^irs quite odious ; 
 they march up and down, even in the more select Pulman 
 cars, slam the doors, awakening one out of a much needed 
 
 \ 
 
89 
 
 doze, and throw themselves down on the chairs and pick 
 their teeth ! " Dressed in a little brief authority, they stiiit 
 before High Heaven," and make one wish they had never 
 been evolved but remained altogether apes. The ivaitem 
 at hotels are often pleasant enough, but the dislike of the 
 white Americans to domestic service has given a monopoly 
 oi this employment to the coloured people, (shared in 
 many parts by the Irish), and they give themselves airs 
 accordingly. Dr. Wendel Holmes, of literary celebrity, was 
 at the Pickerings, and I had a shoi-t, talk with him, 
 but as every minute some new introdxiction came ofF, I 
 could never have a pleasant chat with any one. Mrs. 
 Horsford, who was giving a large evening party, asked us 
 to go there, and the Pickerings wanted me to stay with 
 them till the time arrived, but I was not equal to this 
 exertion, and we three returned in trams, which ought to be 
 called crams, for they are invariably in that condition. I 
 
 was also asked to join John and E with a party going to 
 
 a place called Beverly, but I decided to come here, as people 
 were expecting us, and we arri ved about ten miniites to three, 
 and I found cards and notes, asking me to lunch and dine, 
 and drive, and my landlady said the bell had been ring- 
 ing all the morning, and the whole place was in excite- 
 ment about our coming and its frequent delays ! I got a 
 carriage (it was too late to lunch out or drive), and left 
 some cards and notes of explanation, and as we were leaving 
 one at Mrs. Belmont's, she drove up in a well appointed 
 drag, so we got out, and I found her a fair and light little 
 person, very nice, and wonderfully young looking. She 
 then drove us in her b<'autiful park phajton to Mrs. Bruen'H, 
 where there was an afternoon party for my benefit — 
 such a charming old lady ! I told her I had a mother of 
 eighty-one, and she said "Oh I am more than that, but 
 no one knows my age, and I don't think about it, but 
 
90 
 
 am ready when the call comes." I have heard since, 
 she is past ninety ! She is small and thin, full of life and 
 interest in everything, and her brains as active as ever, — 
 seems to have knovrn every one of interest. I went there 
 again to tea-dinner last evening, and we talked about 
 everything and everybody under Heaven nearly ! Her 
 clever daughter and very pretty grand-daughter, Miss 
 Perkins, have read widely, and our subjects of discussion 
 were endless. Of course at the afternoon party there were 
 numbers of people, and they told me they were quite 
 delighted at my arrival, for the place was very dull now, 
 and it was quite an excitement ! Liist evening a Professor 
 Shields was at Mrs. Bruen's, and gave me his book on 
 " Science and Faith." I have had three invitations to dine 
 to-day, which of course I had to decline. To go on with 
 yesterday's journal, we lunched with a Mrs. Bell, and met 
 there Miss Perkins and another nice young lady, and a 
 queer specimen, a Mr. "W , who travels about the Con- 
 tinent with eight children, and aggravated me by saying 
 he was more at home in France than in England. We had 
 several made up dishes, chiefly iish, but little I could eat ! 
 Three children came down afterwards and were made very 
 much of, as usual ; then Mm, Bebnont called for us in her 
 barouche, and took us a delightful drive b;; ne sea, but 
 it was very cold, and as I had not brought my only warm 
 wrap to Newport, I borroAved a seai skin jacket '"rom Mrs. 
 Bell; I find I have only broug^ ne gow i that T 
 could have well done without, but , ^Hoald be glad of two 
 or three more things. 
 
 This place is something like Ifi/Je, witV numbers of 
 villas, which in summer weather have beautiful lawns 
 and gardens, and are filled with all the smart people from 
 New York and Boston, &c. ; in the season, they say it is 
 wonderfully pretty and gay, and the few people remaiui ng 
 
n 
 
 are so sorry T did not see Newport in all its glory, but I 
 can guess what it would be, and I should dislike the kind 
 of life they lead and the intense frivolity and absence of 
 any kind of occupation, excepting dressing and flirtation ! 
 I think the cream had been left behind. This morning 
 Professor Shields took us a drive to the two Beaches, two 
 little bays with bathing sands, and then we drove to Miss 
 Mason, who lives in a very pi'etty villa with her sister, and 
 is very rich, and we all walked together to the Cliff, where 
 there is a fashionable promenade, with rocks and sea on 
 one side and green turf and the villas with their gardens 
 all open on the other. If any one has a pretty house or 
 place here it is all exposed to the public gaze, and even 
 use, a great deal ! We then drove to Mrs. Bruen's, where 
 Hedley and I lunched. I am surprised to find how 
 fresh the memory of my brother Hedley still remains in 
 the minds of people, who I thought would have been too 
 young to have heard of him at the time of his death, or 
 too old to remember now what they had heard and read. 
 Miss Mason and her friend spoke about him with such 
 real feeling, and said they had been brought up on his 
 " memoirs." Mrs. Bruen and her family, and Professor 
 Shields and many others speak to me as if I was quite a 
 friend, because of my relationship to Hedley ! Isn't this 
 curioiis after thirty years ? They all asked about Lncij, 
 and were so romantic as to be rather distressed that she 
 had ever married ; b\it I told them what a good man her 
 husband was, and that she was so active and useful, and 
 that it would have been a great pity if she had been lost 
 as a wife and mother, &c. Mrs. Bruen, among other 
 things, spoke of spiritiialism, and said she knew from 
 personal experience there was iimch trith in it. A rela- 
 tion and intimate friend was a jiowcrful medium, ami 
 many extraordinary things, such as moving of furniture, 
 
m 
 
 (beavy chairs and tables, &c.) and raps, &c., took place 
 under circumstances which made imposition impossible, 
 there being frequently no one present but Mrs. Bruen and 
 her two daughters and this lady medium. A table at the 
 end of the room would suddenly tilt up and rap. A large 
 dining room table would tilt up, while all the things 
 arranged for dinner on it would remain immovable — the 
 lady not touching it. They all seemed to think that 
 spiritualism had a bad influence, and Mrs. Bruen thinks 
 bad spirits are at work. She is a wonderful old lady, past 
 ninety, but full of energy and interest, moving large trees 
 and making alterations constantly in her house and garden. 
 She kissed me at parting, and I said " I shall tell my 
 mother what a charming old lady you are," and she said, 
 " give her my kind regards, and tell her how glad I was 
 to see you." Well, at last with many hand-shakes and 
 all talking at once, we parted, and I met Gibson at the 
 station, and we returned to Boston yesterday, October 
 25th. I am now writing to you on Sunday from the 
 Hotel Brunswick. Last evening Dick was out when 
 we arrived, with Evelyn at a concert, for which I had 
 tickets, but I was too tired to go ; this morning we went 
 to hear Dr. P. Brooks, the great preacher who everyone 
 was raving about last spring in London, (or was it last 
 year?) his church is like a great temple, or public hall, 
 and cost £180,000. Mr. Winthrop gave us his pew, so we 
 were well placed, and as he is very rapid and not very 
 loud, the strain to hear his discourse would have been 
 very great if we had not been near. " In such an hour 
 as ye think not, the Son of Man cometh." Christ comes 
 to us in many ways, and through the long ages of the 
 Old Testament and Christian dispensations he has been 
 continually shewing Himself, — all great events and promises 
 have partial fulfilments, — little milleniums Lave taken 
 
M 
 
 pace, and heavenly Jerusaleuia have been raised in many a 
 church, in many a gathering of God's people, — all fore- 
 shadowing the Great Event which will bring God to man. 
 Then he went on about a King Idea, the ruling object in 
 every profession, in every life; how the best of that idea, — 
 justice in a lawyer, holiness in a clergyman, and so on, — 
 was brought home and revealed at times with great power. 
 The reformations and revivals in the world are the coming 
 in this sense. He spoke of unconscious love and devotion : 
 that many a person thinks because they cannot always feel 
 Christ present and cannot consciously recognize that they 
 act for Him in their daily life, that they do not love or serve 
 Him ; they have given themselves to Him, but it seems as if 
 He was forgotten while their daily work and employ- 
 ments press Him out. All the time, as with earthly love 
 and care, the heart is full of Him, and every now and 
 then strong religious exercises or unusual events excite 
 the mind ; He comes to it in full power, and then they 
 recognize their Lord. Some of the sermon struck me as too 
 abstract, but it was very suggestive ; the music, too, was 
 beautiful. He is a large stout man with fine well-cut 
 features and beautiful expression. Coming out we met 
 
 John and E and the Pickerings, who had been 
 
 elsewhere. I think they are both tired of America, at 
 
 least E is, and John wants to get to his work ! I am 
 
 not tired of Americans, but I could not live in this 
 country ; the system political is to me odious, much of the 
 social system ditto ; and the society is so disunited, so 
 patchy, so apparently without bonds of union or common 
 interests, the life they lead so dull and without the charm.i 
 of society at home, and yet there are many as nice and 
 clever and good as we can find anywhere. I dare say the 
 missionary and charitable organizations, aud educational 
 institiitions, &c., give some interest and occupation to the 
 
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94, 
 
 energetic and pious ones, but there cannot be much of 
 Trhat we call parish work, or care of the poor, though 
 there are plenty of poor in the large cities, and much 
 distress as in older countries. Mrs. Bruen gave me 
 Lowell's discourse on " The Democracy," which he 
 delivered lately in Birmingham, and asked me for my 
 candid opinion, without regard to her politics. So I said, 
 " candid I shall be, and first of all being devoted to my 
 country's old constitution, the democracy has to me 
 a very unpleasant sound ; by that I mean the Government 
 of the many and from helow, and that form of Government 
 to me is highly objectionable. I think with Carlyle, that 
 God meant the rulers of the world to be those men best 
 fitted by their education and occupations and experiences 
 to cope with the immense difficulties which encompass 
 good govei' .ment. So you see, I can't agree with much 
 Lowell says, but some things are very good and I have 
 ventured to mark them," upon which she handed the 
 paper to Professor Shields, and told him to read it, and tell 
 her what I had marked at a future time, as she wanted to go 
 on talking ! I found Professor Shields quite agreed with 
 me when discussing the matter next day, but he said, " we 
 can't help ourselves now, take care you don't get into the 
 same difficulties." Mrs. Bruen made me give a resum6 of 
 all the reasons why the Lords opposed the passing of the 
 Franchise Bill until the Redistribution Bill appeared. I 
 must stop. We have been to htar Dr. Brooks again, thi£» 
 time «n-written and not so interesting. 
 
 Monday, 27th, — After writing the foregoing yesterday, 
 we went to dine, and then John called and spent nearly 
 two hours chatting. They had been to lunch at the 
 Lowell's (relations of the Minister in England), and leave 
 to-day at one o'clock for New York, and on the first start 
 in the Oermanica for England. I think we are all glad 
 
95 
 
 we are not going to Japan, &c., as I have just written to 
 Mrs. Neilson, " the old country suits my aged inside the 
 best." I told her I thought the people about New 
 Branswick and Boston were especially delightfu.'. " After 
 this," I added, " you will, perhaps, think me impertinent 
 if I say they seem to me so English ! but after all, you 
 came from us, and it only shows you have kept the stock 
 pure, while we have in many cases adopted a spurious 
 Americanism in our ways and speech." Since I wrote 
 this, Mrs. Perkins, a married daughter of dear Mrs. Bruen, 
 and a masterful kind of person, has called on me, and 
 upon my making some such remark as the foregoing, she 
 exclaimed, " I don't like Hiat at all ! Before the war we 
 used to like being taken for English, but now we don't, — 
 How would you like to be taken for an American ? " 
 " Well," I replied, " we don't speak of the mother being 
 like the child ; whether you like it or not you are English 
 by descent, and are our cousins at least." Dick asked 
 her afterwards, " What do you wish to be thought? " "An 
 American, of course." " Please tell me then how you 
 describe an American ? " We could not get her to do so ; 
 in fact, nothing pleases the eei-up creatures, for if we 
 judge of them by the Western or Southern, or even 
 Central Americans, they exclaim at our injustice, and if 
 we judge by these New England States, they are indignant 
 at being thought English ! This, I believe, is only a 
 pretence, however, and that in their liearta they are fond 
 of England, and justly proud of the relationship and 
 likeneiis. Certainly the New Englanders are conceited 
 and bumptious, and in this also thty keep up their 
 British characteristics. They want to lose their State 
 distinctions (which their patriot Washington was so 
 anxious to guard), and become one great nation, t3n- 
 tralizing everything, which, indeed, seems the rugo 
 
everywhere. The Democrats are more conservative and 
 really liberal, and I trust Cleveland will get elected as 
 President, for there are many independent Republicans 
 (Boltert, they call them,) who will vote for him, knowing 
 that Blaine would be a disgrace to their country ; he is a 
 plausible rogue, and respectable people of all opinions 
 almost acknowledge it. Mr. and Mrs. Winthrop called (I 
 have a nice sitting-room now), and we are to drive there 
 and lunch with them to-morrow. Mrs. Lowell also called, 
 and gave us the Republican view of things, being a strong 
 Anti-Democrat ; told us that the Southerners, by argu- 
 ments of personal /ear, made the negroes vote against the 
 Republicans, who they would otherwise support, according 
 to her story. So much, if true, for the freedom of American 
 voters ! Speaking of sea sickness when crossing the Atlantic, 
 she said that like (someone else) she thought she should die 
 the first day, and was afraid she should'nt the second 
 day. Mr. Baillie Hamilton spoke to us at luncheon 
 to-day ; he has invented a new kind of organ, and is 
 perfecting it here, and hopes to make it a good commercial 
 business in New York, and then go home and marry 
 Lady Evelyn Campbell. We liked him very much, and 
 wish him all success. Mr. Perkins called, and we all 
 went to the Archaeological Museum, which is an enter- 
 tainment I am unworthy of, as I don't understand Art, 
 china, or lace, or embroidery, or statuary, and only know 
 what I like; but Mr. Perkins wasted a great deal of 
 valuable information upon me. After this, we all walked 
 to the common with Mr. Hamilton ; he told us that he had 
 worked for months in a factory at Worcester, near this, 
 in his shirt sleeves, no man knowing him, and he thinks 
 highly of the American workmen in these parts. They 
 are kind and noble under their too independent and rough 
 exterior, and that is my own impression ; but still I detest 
 
97 
 
 the system which has taught them that respect and 
 politeness are servile and unmanly, and that doinestic 
 service is a disgrace. I had the pleasure of receiving 
 your letter of I6th October this morning, and am so glad 
 you can use your hand more. I don't think any of your 
 letters are missing, but, without conceit, mine are of more 
 value, as those to you are my only journal, and I should 
 forget so many things if I had not these letters to refer 
 to on returning home. Now I must finish this. Mr. 
 Hamilton is talking while I am writing, and we shall see 
 him at New York on the 3rd, Hotel Brunswick. You 
 will probably only have one more letter from America. I 
 am better, but still rather queer. 
 
 Wednesday, October 29th, Brunswich Hotel, Boston. 
 
 I sent you a letter on Monday, and I will now begin 
 another, which may be the last from these shores. On 
 Tuesday, Mrs. Pickering, the wife of the astronomer at 
 Cambridge, called early "to be of use," but I was engaged 
 to lunch out with the Winthrops, so we arranged to meet 
 to-day. Dick went to play the organ at Advent Church, 
 and was delighted with it, full of ingenious mechanism. 
 At half -past twelve Hedley and I met him at the station, 
 and Mr. Perkins met us, and we found Mrs. Winthrop's 
 carriage at Brooklines. Mr. Perkins is a very accom- 
 plished man, lived a long time in Germany to study music, 
 and in Italy to study Art generally. He looks very like 
 Mr. Henry Sidgwick, and you would never guess he was 
 an American. The drive through Brooklines was very 
 pretty ; we saw three large trees of a pure gold colour on 
 
 a 
 
98 
 
 the greenest turf in one place, which had a lovely effect. 
 The Winthrop's house is not furnished with ocsthotic 
 taste, but there were some good pictures. Mr. Winthrop 
 has been married three times, and the present wife was 
 married before, so there is rather a confusion of families. 
 Her daughter only lives with them, and is affected with a 
 sort of St. Vitus's dance, which made it rather trying for 
 Hedley to take her in to luncheon ; but 1 never saw anyone 
 who seemed less self-conscious or more at her ease than 
 this poor girl, and her mother is devoted to her, and 
 shewed us her picture in great triumph. We hod 
 Mr. Packman, the historian of Canada, at luncheon, 
 and Mr. P'-^ ^son, a celebrated architect, formerly a 
 slaveowner he Southern States, who liberated his 
 
 slaves before ,ue war, but was a "rebel," and lost his all, 
 and had to work for his living. Mr. Packman said he 
 thought Canada was improving wonderfully, but (as the 
 English when we were there had told us), the French 
 element multiplies with extraordinaiy rapidity, and they 
 are a compact body under the control of their priests, and 
 so carry all political questions their own way; con- 
 sequently, but little progress is made in the province of 
 Quebec. Mr. Packman is a Republican, but is going to 
 vote for the Democratic candidate, Mr. Cleveland, because 
 he believes him to be an honest man, and that Blaine 
 would bring the country into difficulties. I wish some 
 of our Republicans would come here and learn a lesson of 
 conscientious independence ! There were some ladies 
 besides, but I did not make out their names. At last 
 luncheon was ready, and such a nasty lancheon ! Great 
 oysters, and raw beef, and dried-up partridges, and the 
 never failing blocks of ice-cream, which aounda very nice, 
 but one gets tired of it, especially when it makes one 
 ill ! However, the mental food was very good, and 
 
90 
 
 Mr. Winthrop, who knows everyone, spoke to mo of 
 Gladstone. He thinks he " is a man of many words ; he 
 knows something of everything, and a good deal of some 
 things," but on the whole he evidently does nol trust his 
 statemanship. He knew the late Lord Lytton and his wife, 
 and met her after their quarrel at Roger's, the poet, and 
 thought her a very fine clever woman, with charms of 
 manner. Lord Lytton he thought very unpleasant ; very 
 deaf, and sensitive about it, and would not use his 
 trumpet. Macauia^ was very ponderous, and had a 
 Niagara flow of language. He always engrossed all conver- 
 sation, and one got tired of listening. Mr. Winthrop greatly 
 enjoyed the coming of age of Lord Cranboume, at Hatfield, 
 to which he was invited, and he thinks Lord Salisbury's 
 speaking more interesting than Gladstone's, — that the 
 House of Lords might make some compromise about 
 the Redistribution Bill, and that it would be an im- 
 mense pity for England to lose the three estates of 
 the realm, and the Established church. " We don't want 
 you to become a Republic, but keep up the standard 
 of good government for the rest of the world." 
 Afterwards we went to Mr. Augustus Lowell's, and 
 there we found all vehement for Blaine! I did not 
 agree with their arguments, but listened to all very 
 meekly and attentively ! They also urged us, as every one 
 else, not to give in to the idea of universal suffrage, which 
 is the bane, they say, of politics in this country, and 
 causes all their difficulties. After tea we drove home five 
 miles in Mr. Winthrop's carriage ; I lik.) her very much, 
 and she has more 8oftne$it of manner, being a Southerner, 
 than the Americans sometimes have. Wednesday we 
 met Mrs. FicHering at the station, and after a short, 
 railway journey, drove to the beautiful grounds of 
 Wellesley College, founded by a rich American, Mr. Durrant, 
 
 o 2 
 
100 
 
 for girls over sixteen. Three separate buildings, and a 
 pretty lake, and a very interesting President, Miss Freeman, 
 about thirty. After seeing the perfect and numerous 
 arrangements made for the education of the young women, 
 chemistry-rooms, libraries, statuary, &c., &c., and making 
 acquaintance with some of the lady professors, we had 
 luncheon with hundreds of girls ; some of these pay less, 
 (the regular payment is forty-five dollars or pounds, 
 I forget which, a year), and have some light work to 
 do, wait on us, &c. I can't say the luncheon was 
 good! the beef hard, and I had only bread and jam! 
 I thought " unless they have a really good breakfast 
 and dinner, these young women will not be able to 
 bear the strain on their mental and bodily powers." 
 After this innocent meal, six young girls, dressed in blue 
 serge and white costumes, with hats of the shape of under- 
 graduate's, rowed us in two boats, one painted blue with 
 light oars, the other white, and the girls rowing it also 
 in white costumes ; our blue captain was a very pretty 
 bright girl, just the type one reads of in novels as the 
 American girl, (but not a lady in the American view, or 
 our own,) and she chatted away, and led the others in 
 some pretty songs, while they rested on their oars, and 
 then we were obliged to huriy away. One of the pro- 
 fessors told me how clever the captain was, and another 
 asked me to send six copies of Hedley's Memoirs for the 
 Sunday Lending Library here, with my name, "which 
 they should value so much." We returned to Cambridge, 
 and kind Mrs. Pickering, who is very good looking and 
 energetic, took us to Harvard College, and we saw the 
 Memorial Hall, and interesting Gymnasium, where the 
 young men were practising all kinds of wonderful exercises. 
 We got home very tired, and at seven o'clock dined with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Perkins. Mrs. Perkins, like her mother, Mrs. 
 
101 
 
 Bruen, has had great experiences in Spiritualism, and 
 believes it is not good. 
 
 Thursday, 30th. — ^At Mrs. Pruyn's, Albany. — We left 
 Boston about eleven o'clock, and found her carriage and cart 
 waiting for us at station, and received a most kind 
 welcome. She is a rather stout woman, of about forty, 
 who has been very pretty, and has two daughters of 
 sixteen and eleven, and a stepson who is very delicate. 
 Mrs. Pruyn is very rich, (everything having been left 
 to her as usual here), and the house is filled with beautiful 
 gold and silver-plate, and china and books, and curiosities 
 of all sorts. She seems very energetic and good in all 
 relations of life. Some people dined, — her father, Judge 
 Parker, Mr. and Mrs. Kidd, Mr. Ledgard, of old Dutch 
 extraction, which is very common here and in the States 
 generally, and lives in the country Ganzenovia, on the 
 shores of a lake. His family have been there for genera- 
 tions. 
 
 Friday, ZXat. — We all went to see the Capitol, an 
 enormous and handsome building not yet completed, but 
 what I cared for much more, we saw the President, or 
 rather I should say, the candidate. Governor Cleveland. 
 He talked with us some minutes, and seemed a simple, 
 honest kind of man, without vulgarity, but not of society 
 manners or attractiveness. I wished him success, for 
 which he thanked me cordially. The poor man is hunted 
 to death by men and meetings of all sorts. So we. did not 
 stay long. I caught cold in this hot place, (they do bum 
 such fearful /it7*nace8 in the houses here), and I could not 
 go out again. 
 
 Saturday. — Remained in bed till four o'clock to-day, 
 and then got up to tea, Mrs. Pruyn's sister, Mrs. Comey, 
 such a nice cheerful woman, with a face something like 
 Lisa's, and Mrs. Evans, with a handsome niece, came to 
 
102 
 
 lunch yesterday. Miss Prujm drove Hedley in a nice 
 pony carriage. At dinner we had General and Mrs. 
 Mirvan, another sister, and Dr. Holms, Librarian in the 
 Capitol. This afternoon two presents of flowers came 
 for me ; they all went to church in the morning, being 
 All Saints' day. The Evans asked us all to dine, but 
 Mrs. Pruyn had company at home. Mr. Palmer, son of the 
 man who sculptured " Faith," so often photographed, and 
 the clergyman of St. Peter's, Dr. Battershall, who was 
 very pleasant, and talked nicely of Mr. Eainsford, son of 
 Mr. Rainsford of Halkin street, who has done wonders 
 in New York, at St. Greorge's. The American religious 
 people are far less narrow minded and censorious than we 
 are ; one sect or party can pee that a great deal of good 
 and successful work is done by another ! Mrs. Pruyn is 
 decidedly ritualistic, but she is quite sorry I shall not be 
 here next ■« oek, to hear Moody and Sankey, who are to 
 hold meetings. A Miss Lansing dined here, and seems 
 a very touchy American-loving person, and snubbed tho 
 boys if they hinted anything here was not perfection. 
 
 Sunday, 2nd. — Heard a good sermon from Dr. Batter- 
 shall, at St. Peter's, on " Seeing Him who is invisible," — 
 the Apostle's definition of faith. We remained to Holy 
 Communion. He is evidently fond of ritual, but there 
 was nothing really objectionable. In the evening we all 
 went to Judge Parker's, and Mrs. Parker, who had not left 
 her room for some weeks, camo down to see me, and is a 
 very nice old lady ; all the daughters and their husbands, 
 and the widower son, came to heavy tea, a regular 
 custom in the family — ^then DicL. played, and we sung 
 hymns. 
 
 Monday, 3rd. — Had a delightful drive with Mrs, Pruyn 
 in the morning, violet mountains (the Caltgills) in 
 the distance, with brilliant foreground of autumn tinted 
 
103 
 
 trees, and golden fields, andabright sun shining on all, made 
 a pretty picture ; the streets and roads here are very bad, 
 as generally in America; really one drives over houldera of 
 stone in some of the streets here, and they say, " it can't 
 be helped, the municipal corporation have it in their own 
 hand" ." Oar kind hostess has given me a pretty dusting 
 brush and a book, &c., and is going to send me a box of 
 biscuits I liked, for the voyage home. Mrs. Pickering 
 has sent me a pretty little case, with my initials on it. 
 We left Albany at twenty minutes to three, and much 
 enjoyed the scenery on the banks of the Hudson en route to 
 New York, but it got dark before we came to the prettiest 
 part, and we did not get settled in this Hotel Brunswick 
 till past eight o'clock. 
 
 Tuesday, ^th. — After a better night I awoke, i>.3ling less 
 tmcomf ortable, but I have not been at all well lately, and 
 I suppose that what I want is rest and a different diet. 
 I found dear Mary's letter, and one from Clara. I shall not 
 hear any more, I suppose, now, till I meet Edward, &c., at 
 Ampton Hall, on the 20th inst. We all agree our hearts are 
 " homeward boimd " now, and the dear old Grandie will, 
 please God, welcome us back in health and peace. I have 
 had lots of visitors this morning and afternoon. To-night 
 we dine with my Philadelphia friend, Mrs. B. Moore. 
 
 Later. — We met Monseigneur Capel at dinner, and Major 
 Becard Seaver, and a Miss Hooker. Crowds all about the 
 hotel (Fifth Avenue) ; electoral retiums put up in front of 
 an electric light near it, and cheers as they appeared to 
 favour one side or another from the dense crowd. 
 Monseigneur Capel is handsome and agreeable, but he did 
 not impress me at all as a sincere or saintly person. We 
 had to make our way home through a great crush, but 
 there was nothing unpleasant. The Republicans have 
 had it all their own way for more than twenty years, and 
 
104 
 
 hare, of course, become tyrannical and corrupt, so no 
 wonder the best of them support Cleveland, who is 
 believed to be honest, and has proved himself capable 
 and sensible as Governor of New York. The cheering 
 and groaning went on all night, which was not conducive 
 to sound slumber. They cheer and groan in unison, 
 which has a curious effect. 
 
 ^elUx iJCo. 12. 
 
 November 7th, Brunswick Hotel, New York. 
 
 I am not sure whether I wrote up my journal to this 
 date, Wednesday, 6th. On that morning Hedley and I 
 went by elevated railway to get money from the bank, and 
 pay for our passages in Cunard boat, the Oregon, on the 
 12th. After luncheon, Mrs. Belmont called and took Dick 
 and me a drive in the park, and afterwards to Tiffany's, 
 the great place for jewellery and such things. Dick went 
 then to hear Mr. Baillie Hamilton's organ, and Hedley 
 walked to the Millers, where Mrs. Belmont took us for 
 an afternoon party they had got up for my benefit. They 
 live in rather a nice flat, which was crowded with people, 
 and where I got the most delicious chocolate and cream 
 and biscuits ! I was introduced to everyone, I think, and 
 talked politics as much as I could with all the men in 
 turn ; even the EepuMicans strongly advise our retaining 
 the House of Lords, and not giving universal suffrage. 
 There were some nice-looking well-dressed people at this 
 party, and all so kind and anxious we should be pleased. 
 I like the Americans ! they are so good au fond, and the 
 women are superior to the men of the younger generation. 
 
105 
 
 After dinner at the hotel, Hedley spied out Mr. Angus, 
 our host at Montreal, and we had a long chat. The 
 election is not yet decided, and the Democrats say that 
 the others are likely to play tricks with the ballot boxes, 
 and they have certainly delayed electoral returns ; having 
 commai5d of ballot boxes, railways and telegraphs, they 
 can easily do this, and if people arrive at thinking, as 
 some do at home, that a man's conscience ought only to 
 consider the importance of keeping hia party in power, 
 and ignore every other consideration, why, what is to stop 
 these kind of things? If a man's conscience is not to 
 weigh down the advantages of gain to his party in some 
 matters, why in others P 
 
 Thursday, 6th. — We started as arranged at a quarter to 
 nine to the Normal School for girls, richly endowed by 
 some citizen, and entirely free. It was a good walk and we 
 were not lucky in our trams, and so we arrived rather 
 late at the large hall. Our friend General Wilson 
 introduced me to the President, who placed me in hia 
 chair, and then I saw before me fifteen hundred yoiuig 
 women. They got up singly and recited interesting 
 quotations and sung, and then marched out to music in 
 military order. We went to another hall, and saw them 
 exercised, and they were healthy and graceful per- 
 formances. These girls come at nine and stay till two, 
 and are thoroughly well taught. Little ones, too, are 
 instructed by the elder girls. It is a capital education 
 for the frtiire mothers and teachers. I suppose most of 
 our girls go to service of that class ! We then went to 
 General Wilson's, and breakfasted on soup, fish, venison 
 steak, &c. A very agreeable lady, a Southerner, was 
 there, and as General Wilson is a Bepublican, we argued, 
 and he found all the party against his views, but he is 
 used to being crushed, for his wife is a Democrat ! He 
 
106 
 
 wanted us to go to see a famous library, but I x:d«, coo 
 tired, and when he and the boys returned we went home, 
 and Mr. and Mrs. Neilson were waiting for us at the 
 hotel. We then started for a very high building near the 
 river, when we mounted in an elevator, and had a 
 beautiful view of New York, and could see thp "■ ^id 
 river and water-way in which it rejoices, but evoi^cuing 
 is spoilt in America for the sake of the railways, and 
 steamers, and wharves, and you see no pretty houses near 
 the river banks in the cities. Brooklyn Bridge is fine, and 
 I half hoped to cross it and find out Dr. Penticost, but was 
 finished v/p, and went home to rest. Then visitors came : 
 Mrs. Gardener, daughter of Bishop Doane, of Albany, very 
 nice ; then we dined at the Belmont's. The house is 
 gorgeous in embroidery, and pictures, and statues, and all 
 in very good taste, and more comfortable than most of 
 their fine houses. The dinner, too, was very good, and I 
 was the better for the excellent champagne. Mrs. Belmont 
 is a wonderful little woman, with thick brown hair, and 
 looking about forty, and I have seen people look as old at 
 thirty. He is short and lame, and rather plain, but is 
 clever and agreeable, and speaks with a strong foreign 
 accent. Their son, Mr. Percy Belmont, has been elected 
 three times for Congress. There was a southern lady 
 there and her husband, Madame HofEman, I think, and 
 a Miss Wright. Madame Hoffman is very handsome and 
 lively. The Belmonts apologized for a small party, 
 because they are in mourning. They keep up mourning 
 dress and customs tremendously long here. At first I 
 thought there were a surprising number oi widows going 
 about, but I discovered they were mourning for their 
 aunts or grandmothers ! 
 
 The election was not settled till late last night, and 
 they say the Republicans are still disputing the returns — 
 
I 
 
lOV 
 
 and they feared riota in New York. I must say they seem 
 wonderfully quiet, and I slept till he_ past eight this 
 morning, longer than for weeks past. To-day's papers 
 opaounce Lord Londonderry's death and Mr. Fawcett's. 
 How many people one is interested in have died since we 
 left England in August ! 
 
 Friday, 9th. — Mr. Baillie Hamilton took Dick and me to 
 hear his organ "voealian" at a church, it was a walk for me, 
 and the wind was very cold and strong, church very hot, 
 and so I caught cold. I should die of some lung complaint 
 if I remained here long! We started for Long Island 
 about three, crossing in a ferry and then by rail, and 
 found on reaching the station that Mr. Jones and Miss 
 Miller were \mhappy about us, as they could not find us in 
 the train. Carriages were waiting and we reached 
 Unqua in twenty minutes. A good sized house (and my 
 bedroom quite splendid) on a bit of grass land, with 
 stumpy trees scatte'^od anyhow, opposite and close to 
 South Oyster Bay, which is divided from the Atlantic by 
 a narrow strip of sand, back premises in full view, with 
 chickens and tiu-keys everywhere in full possession ! All 
 the establishment awaited out arrival, I think, in the hall, 
 including two smaii waiters come for the auspicious 
 occasion. Mrs. and Miss Jones (her sister), and a Miss 
 Jones (niece) with her father who is a widower and lives 
 there, and Col. Jones a grass widower whose wife lives in 
 Paris. At dinner I appeared as smart as I could, and I 
 think made a sensation, judging by the approving looks 
 and smiles cast upon me ! Nearly all the neighbours are 
 Jones's or Loyd Jones's, and some of them dined. 
 
 Saturday, 8th. — I rested in my room till twelve, and 
 then in a smart tea gown was seated next Mrs. Jones on a 
 sofa, and was introduced to each one as they shook hands 
 with her and with me ; they were nearly all strangers to 
 
108 
 
 me, but some sat for a few minutes on my other side and 
 talked, and some asked us to go and see them, but I was 
 obliged to decline all hospitalities, as we hare no time for 
 more. They were not particularly well dressed generally, 
 nor was I struck by the beauty of the young women. 
 Mrs. Belmont, who is a leader of fashion in New York, 
 said, " I hope you won't think this is the beat of New York 
 society ; " however, I know I have at difiPerent times seen 
 the heat, and there were many there who represented 
 la creme de la creme. Sir Bichard Temple was one of 
 the very few English present, all were very kind and 
 cordial, and I realy felt quite an important Personage ! 
 almost royalty ! ! The luncheon was a terrific scramble, for 
 waiting is so bad in America, and I got nothing to eat till 
 very late, and my head ached horribly — after shaking 
 hands with four hundred people (three hundred came by 
 special train from New York), it was not much wonder, 
 and I retired to lie down at half -past four, when they all 
 had gone. 
 
 Sunday 9th. — I was in bti quite ill till past four, and 
 then I came down and was petted and nursed. Dick went 
 back yesterday afternoon, and the last we saw of him was 
 hanging on to the back of one of the numerous carriages, 
 which he caught just in time to reach the train. I could 
 not go out +0 tjea as arranged with some relations, but the 
 others did excepting Mrs. and Miss Jones. A.t half-past 
 seven we had supper altogether and champagne, &c. 
 Nothing could be kinder than everyone. 
 
 Monday, 10th. — At two, after luncheon, they sent us to 
 the station (Mr. Jones, such a good nice man, had gone 
 early to New York), and Miss Miller accompanied us. On 
 arriving at the hotel there was Mrs. Bidgelow, a very 
 cordial lady who had invited us to West Point ; she seized 
 me and exclaimed, " I am so glad just to have caught you 
 
109 
 
 and seen you once more," and she called me " dear," 
 sometimes, and begged she might kiss me at parting, and 
 as she was nice looking I didn't mind! That night being 
 engaged to go with Mrs. Belmont to the opera, I felt, in 
 spite of the risk, I must do it. So I went well wrapped up 
 and sat behind in the beautiful large box, so that I could 
 cough without at any rate being seen, and I hope did not 
 much interfere with the enjoyment of Patti by others, 
 but for myself it was no enjoyment at all. There were 
 smart and well-dressed people in the opera house, but not 
 up to our upper " ten thousand " and they talked while 
 Patti was singing in our box which was close to the 
 stage. 
 
 Tuesday. — Mr. Cleland Bums of the Cunard Company, 
 an old acquaintance, came to see me with many kind 
 offers to arrange everything for my comfort, as he and 
 his daughters were going in the Oregon, and also Mr. W. 
 Cunard, and his son ; a Mr. Morgan, a banker and friend 
 of Mrs. Pruyn's, has put off coming unfortunately, for from 
 all accounts he is much to be liked; he called twice, 
 and the second time I was able to see him. I remained 
 quiet, but saw many visitors, and many I was obliged 
 to decline seeing ; the sons both went out to dine. 
 
 Wednesday, 12th. — At half-past ten we started with 
 baggage for ship, got all on board comfortably, found 
 one lady in my cabin, and I spoke to Mr. Bums, who 
 said he would arrange for me after we had started ; lots 
 of people came to see their friends off. Mr. Neilson, 
 brought me some beautiful butter for the voyage ! Mrs. 
 Pruyn telegraphed and sent me the biscuits ; Mr. Hall, 
 a brother of Mrs. Edlmann, and Mr. Eyre, friends of 
 Dick's came, and Mr. Carpenter an acquaintance from 
 New Bnmswick, and Mr. Whitebouse, a literary ac- 
 quaintance. At six o'clock we started in the fine ship 
 
110 
 
 Oregon, in wWch I am now writing. It was a lovely 
 Indian summer day, clear as we rarely see it in our Islands, 
 sun shining, and so we saw the splendid Bay of New 
 York to great advantage, it seemed wonderful to us after 
 our experience going to Quebec, to see how calm and blue 
 the great Atlantic could be. Mr. Bums put me into a 
 cabin to myself near them, but unfortimately it was also 
 very near the engines, and after two nights, I sneaked 
 back to my own berth, and put up with a very quiet little 
 lady in preference ! Mr. Burns placed us at their table, 
 and I have the benefit of his cheerful company and his 
 lively daughters, as well as the champagne and good 
 things he shares with us, and we are a very merry party, 
 and enjoyed ourselves much, until Friday, when the 
 weather changed. A Mr. Clinton, a fine looking man of 
 six feet six inches, son of Lord Charles Clinton, a Mr. 
 Dickson, a very gentlemanlike nice ex-gi' rdsman, a Mr. 
 and Mrs. Drake, who are very musical, and he plays the 
 flute better than anyone I ever heard, all sat near us, but 
 for two or three days we had the old story, and the waves 
 beat and rolled us about, and the passengers disappeared 
 like mice to their holes, and we could not go on deck. 
 
 List of Saloon Passengers pbb R. M. S. " Oebgon," (Captain 
 McMicKAN,) New York to LivKRPOCt, Nov. 12th, 1884. 
 
 Miss Appleford 
 
 Mr. Julian B. Arnold 
 
 Mr. .T. Fred. Ackermaii 
 
 - •. oose d'Aranjo 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Edward Austin 
 
 Mr. Alex. Aitchinson 
 
 Mr. C. D. Armstrong 
 
 Key. J. A. Atderaon 
 
 Capt. and Mrs. Bogle, 
 
 six Children and two Servants 
 Miss Bogle 
 Master Bogle 
 Miss Bodwell 
 Mr. C. Bayley 
 Mr. G. Bayley 
 Mr. Thos. A. Bell 
 
, -' •^■-•■'l - -l ■ 
 
Ill 
 
 Mr. J. N. Beach 
 Mr. Arthur A. Brigham 
 Hon. F. A. K. Bennett 
 Mr. S. A. Budgett 
 Mr. J. Cleland Bums 
 Mias Jean Bums 
 Miss Grace Burns, 
 
 and Maid 
 Sev. Geo. A. Brown 
 Mr. B. Bonfort 
 Miss Martha Bonfort 
 Mr. J. Barnes 
 Bev. Edwin M. Bliss 
 Mr. F. D. Blakeslee 
 Mr. J, Lomas Bullock 
 Mr. W. Butter worth 
 Mrs. Mary E. Bjrme 
 Mr. John Blair 
 Eev. John Boylan 
 Mr. J. Collins 
 Mr. Stanley Conner 
 Mr. Aug. T. Chur 
 Miss Cranston 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Wm. M. Cranston 
 Mr. J. P. Croal 
 Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Biusell 
 
 Crampton 
 Miss Florence A. Cordis 
 Miss Nellie B. Cordis 
 Mr. L. Crules 
 Mr. F. M. Crick 
 Mr. and Mrs. Woodie Cook, 
 
 and Son 
 Mr. John Cholditch 
 Mr. Pelham Clinton 
 Mr. John L. Chapman 
 Mr. Alex. Campbell 
 Mr. Wm. Cunard 
 Mr. Ernst H. Cunard 
 Mr. Geo. Dixon 
 Mr. John Dixon 
 Mr. Frank S, Dougherty 
 
 Mr. Chas. Algernon Dougherty 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. C. A. Drake 
 
 Bev. and Mrs. W. E. Daniel 
 
 Miss Annie Davis 
 
 Mr. Walter Dickinson 
 
 Mr. Ed. M. Denny 
 
 Mr. Ed. Henry Denny 
 
 Mr. Chaa. Edward Denny 
 
 Mr. J. H. Douglaa-Willian 
 
 Mr. F. J. Douglas-Willian 
 
 Miss B. Emmett 
 
 Miss Emmett 
 
 Miss Lydia F. Emmett 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Bobert Easson, 
 
 and two Children 
 Mr. A. S. Emmet 
 Mr. Frank Evans 
 Miss Alice Foster 
 Miss Emma Foster 
 Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Fiddian 
 Bev. M. Flynn 
 Mr. Chandos-Pole-Gell 
 Mr. C. Gostenhofer 
 Mr. G. Greiner 
 Mr. B. Gebhardt 
 Bev. Miles Grant 
 Mr. and Mrs. C. W. Gordon, 
 
 and two Children 
 Mr. Francis Henry 
 Mrs. H. J. Hastings 
 Miss Hastings, 
 
 and two Maids 
 Mr. Nigel F. Hatton 
 Mr. Michael Hughes 
 Bev. and Mrs. E. F. Hammond 
 Mr. F. Henriques 
 Mr. Clarence M. Hyde 
 Mr. Theodore Haviland 
 Mr. C. T. Hunter 
 Mr. F. W. Hutchins 
 Mr. Henry B. Hoyt 
 Mr. E. L. Hamilton 
 
112 
 
 Mr. John Hall 
 
 Mr. W. Howden 
 
 Mr. W. E. Jarratt 
 
 Mr. Chan. Johnston 
 
 Mr. A. do Joumel 
 
 Mr. T. O. Joneg 
 
 Mme. Marie Joseph - 
 
 Mme. Honorat 
 
 Mme. Helena 
 
 Miss Kenyon 
 
 Mr. Adolph Eeitel 
 
 Mr. Richard Kihble 
 
 Mrs. Kidd 
 
 Miss Kidd 
 
 Miss B. Kidd 
 
 Master Kidd 
 
 Mr. Frank Kemp 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. A. Ladenburg 
 
 Dr. and Mrs. Landis 
 
 Mr. W. Liddell 
 
 Mr. A. Lindsey 
 
 Mr. Edmund Lees 
 
 Mr. John Lawrance 
 
 Mr. P. Lawrence 
 
 Mr. John Leach 
 
 Mr. E. Middleton 
 
 Dr. "Wm. B. Meany 
 
 Mr. O. B. Mackintire 
 
 Mr. Archd. A. McDonald 
 
 Mr. Ch. Mordaunt 
 
 Mr. M. L. Marcus 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. W. T. Makellar 
 
 Mr. Herbert Mead 
 
 Mrs. L. Middleton 
 
 Mr. "W. W. Marks 
 
 Mr. M. MacLehose 
 
 Mr. Paul Meischer 
 
 Mr. Alex. McEwen 
 
 Miss Mills 
 
 Mr. Robt. J. McClure 
 
 Sister Eliza Monica 
 
 Mr. Francis More 
 
 Mr. A. Bishop Mason 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Nichols, 
 
 and Child 
 Mr. and Mrs. C. F. Noyea 
 Mr. Jeffreys Owen 
 Mr. and Mrs. Henry M. Peyser 
 Hon. F. Petre 
 Mr. Bichd. C. Perkins 
 Miss Puleston 
 Mrs. C. B. Paulmier 
 Miss Nellie Paulmier 
 Miss Richardson, 
 
 and Maid 
 Mr. and Mrs. E. G. Bideout 
 
 and Maid 
 Mr. and Mrs. J. M. Richardson, 
 
 and Maid 
 Lady Rayleigh, 
 
 and Maid 
 Mr. J. E. Raymond 
 Mr. J. F. Raymond 
 Mr. Jno. F. Roy 
 Captain Hugh Rose 
 Mr. and Mrs. H. Skerrett Rogers 
 Mrs. Mary Elizabeth Riches 
 Miss Marion Riches 
 Mr. Champion B. Riunell 
 Mr. W. Seott 
 Mr. Harmon Spruance 
 Mr. and Mrs. T. J 'chickle 
 Mr. Frank W. St- s 
 Mr. C. F. Schmidt 
 Mr. Matthew Snoeck 
 Mr. Philip M. Smith 
 Mr. O. Streatfeild 
 Hon. Richd. Strutt 
 Hon. Hedley V. Strutt 
 Mr. a. S. Stephen 
 Rev. Geo. Mure Smith 
 Mr. I. L. Solomon 
 Mr. Frank Sartoris 
 Mr. H. W. Sawyer 
 
118 
 
 Mrs. Trielhard 
 
 Mil. Martin Thouron, 
 
 and two Sons 
 Mr. H. Trovenen 
 Mrs. Edwin F. Taylor 
 '»r. Alfred E. Tregellas 
 Mrfl. L. J. Trowbridge 
 Mr. John A. Talk 
 Mr. A. Taylor 
 Mr. A. M. Talbot 
 Mr. Jean Verga 
 Sister Mary Virginia 
 Mr. Chas. E. Willoughby 
 Mr. Oeo. Windeler 
 Miss Minnie Wilson 
 Miss Walls 
 Mr. Wm. Ward 
 
 Mr. O. M. Warren 
 Miss Adelaide Wibon 
 Mr. Thomas Webb 
 Mr. C. F. Watson 
 Mr. Uordon Wendell 
 Mr. A. H. Willey 
 Mr. A. Woodthorpo 
 Mr. A. J. Winn 
 Mr. and Mrs. T. H. Watrets 
 Mr. W. A. Webber 
 Mr. W. D. Webb 
 Mrs. E. Wolfe, 
 and Maid 
 Dr. Will. N. Wilson 
 Mrs. Emily Woods 
 Mr. H. R. WUliams 
 Mr. J. S. Wilson 
 
 This morning, Tuesday, 18th, I awoke after a very "dirty " 
 night, to find the sun shining, and the sea comparatively 
 calm. Last night we had a concert ; on their requesting 
 some American to lead off the " Star Spangled Banner," 
 a nice looking elderly man, whom we had called G. O. M., 
 got up and said " perhaps you may be surprised to hear 
 that for one American who knows " Star Spangled 
 Banner," one hundred and fifty know " God Save the 
 Queen," upon which we cheered him, and stood up and 
 all lustily sang " God Save the Queen ;" after this 
 dissipation we added that of an oyster supper and 
 toddy ! thanks to Mr. Bums. Here is the Programme 
 of our Concert : — 
 
lU 
 
 R.M.S. "OREGON," (Cap^ McMICK^»). 
 
 "OEEGONIAN COMPANY." 
 
 A GRAND CONCERT 
 
 WILL BB GIVEN TO-NIGHT, 
 
 MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17th, 1884, 
 
 IN AID OF THE 
 
 LIVERPOOL SEAMEN'S ORPHANAGE. 
 
 PATEONE88 :— CLABA LADY RAYLEIGH. 
 Managbbs:— SIGNOR CUNAEDO & SIGNOR BUENSEASI. 
 
 PROGRAMME. 
 
 Song "Aald Robin Gray" Prima Donna Dbaki. 
 
 Song "For Ever and for Ever" .., Mrs. E. Wolm. 
 
 Song "Sailing" ... Mr. J. B, Willoughbt. 
 
 Solo Flute Herr Dkaki. 
 
 Song Miss Pulbston. 
 
 Song Mr. Ohansos-Polx-Gell. 
 
 Mr. Bbighiman, A.B. 
 
 ...Prima Donna Dbaki. 
 
 ...Mr. J. Swanston Wilson. 
 
 Song 
 
 Song (FIduO Obligato, Herr Drake) 
 
 SONO 
 
 Stab Spangled Banner ^ 
 OoD Save the Queen ) 
 
 Accompanist Hon. RICHARD STRUTT. 
 
 ... The COHFANT. 
 
 AMERICAN MONEY WILL BE TAKEN. 
 OAPTT^GES MAY BE ORDERED FOR 9.30 P.M. 
 
lis 
 
 My cabin is opposite Dick and Hedley's, and the 
 latter has great jokes about my treatment of my 
 small lady companion ! He says she is frightened 
 to death of me, and is afraid to come into the cabin 
 until I am safe in my berth ! My love for the sea 
 ha 3 leceived a severe check, though I think no other 
 dea ca : be as bad and uninteresting as this tremendous 
 Atlantic ! I have not an idea where you are, but hope it 
 is at Margaret's, and I shall send this there, as the best 
 chance of your receiving it soon. I shall post this at 
 Queeustown, when Dick will also telegraph to Augusta at 
 Ampton, and he has asked her to let you know of 
 our safety as far as that. The Americans have been singing 
 in choruses while I have been writing, practising for a 
 concert. 
 
 Tuesday, 18th, eight o'clock p.m. — I hear we shall get 
 to Queenstown to-morrow morning, about ten o'clock. I 
 have a game of whist coming on, and there is to be an 
 Amurican concert, "Star Spangled Banner," and all. 
 Miss Caleston, who I have chaperoned in the Oregon from 
 M^o^ Y- rk, is to be left at Queenstown. 
 
 : U "dday, 19th, Queenstown. — The coast has been so 
 /i(\, of course, quite smooth, compared to what we 
 have lf>'\ accustomed to of late. I got up early, and saw 
 all the sacks of letters, six hundred, from all parts of the 
 world, carried on men's backs to the tugs on either side 
 of the Oregon, and we parted with Miss Puleston and 
 some others, and now I must stop as this is going to be 
 posted. We expect to be at Liverpool some time to-night, 
 and shall leave at once for Ampton, where I look forward 
 to seeing so many of my dear ones. Dick and I agree 
 that our happiest days have been the day we reached 
 Quebec, and the day we left New York, both glorious in 
 weather and scenerv ! 
 
 ■:} 
 
 pie 
 
 .<-'-, 
 
116 
 
 Olven me hy Mr. Auqdsj hdr, American, of New York, of 
 German descent, November 18th, 1884, on " Oregon." 
 
 Mir country, 'tis of thee, 
 Sweet land of liberty, 
 
 Of thee I Bing; 
 Land where my Fathers died. 
 Land of the Pilgrims' pride, 
 From every mountain side 
 
 Let Freedom ring. 
 
 My native country thee, 
 Land of the noble free. 
 
 Thy name I love; 
 I love thy rocks and rills. 
 Thy woods and templed hills. 
 My heurt with rapture thrills 
 
 Like that above. 
 
 Oar Father, God, to Thee, 
 Author of Liberty, 
 
 Thy name we sing. 
 Long may our land be bright 
 With Freedom's holy light, 
 Protect us by Thy might 
 
 Great God our King. 
 
117 
 
 November 19th. — I posted my letter to you at Queens- 
 town. We had a very pleasant day on deck, and while 
 playing some innocent whist in the evening, Mr. Bums 
 announced, " We have arrived at Liverpool ! " It seemed 
 so wonderful ! We remained at anchor after a very slow, 
 careful steaming up the river, and it was pretty to watch 
 the lights and the dim outlines as we passed by. 
 
 20th. — ^After a tremendous bustle at Custom House, 
 where our boxes were all opened, but mine only juat 
 unfastened, Dick and I started in the train across coimtry 
 for Suffolk. We wished a hearty good-bye to our fellow- 
 passengers. It was sad to see poor Mrs. Bogle standing 
 with her seven children among her great deal boxes, 
 screwed down (for she had only time on leaving Barbadoes 
 to pack hurriedly), and then to look at the Custom House 
 officials opening them all — thanks to the dynamite people, 
 who make this precaution necessary. I must confess I 
 thoroughly enjoyed our quiet smooth journey. All the 
 time we had a carriage, to ourselves (Hedley remained 
 at Liverpool to visit the Woods at Birkenhead), and we 
 only changed twice, having our luncheon comfortably in 
 a basket en route, and reached Ingham about seven 
 o'clock, where the carriage was waiting, and found dear 
 Edward, Lisa, Augusta, and Bosa Paley at Ampton ; 
 Clara and Jack had been staying out, but returned 
 after dinner when- they heard of our arrival. It 
 was so delightful to be among so many dear ones 
 again, and oh ! the luxury of a large comfortable bed, 
 and how thoroughly I enjoyed it, and the quiet and 
 beauty of Ampton altogether ! I hear you are expected 
 in London to-morrow. I never lost anything during my 
 whole journey, excepting two things, which were left 
 behind in our railway car at Winnipeg, owing to that 
 horrid cook hiding them ; but on this journey from 
 
118 
 
 Liverpool, my emerald ring, set with diamonds, must 
 have slipped off my finger, and could not be found, 
 though I telegraphed, &c., at once ; this is an un- 
 pleasant episode. 
 
 P. 8. to my Diary. — I spent a fortnight of complete rest 
 and quiet at Ampton with dear Clara, &c., and was imder 
 medical care most of the time with a bad cough and 
 derangement of liver ; notwithstanding, it was a happy, 
 peaceful time, and I little thought it was my last visit to 
 that dear old house ! 
 
 On Saturday, Srd January, soon after my return from 
 Weston, when I had been visiting Lady Camperdowu, 
 the three sisters Beatrice, Clara and Eosa arrived to tell 
 me that the whole house, excepting the study and kitchen 
 rooms, was burnt to a shell that morning at three o'clock ! 
 A large children's party had been given Friday evening, 
 and many people had scarcely left at one o'clock, and Clara 
 was not in bed till half -past one o'clock. The fire broke 
 out at a quarter to three o'clock, was discovered by a maid 
 visitor, and nearly everyone had to leave their bedrooms 
 with only the clothes on their backs, and for some time 
 Clara and Jack, &c., had not time to think of putting 
 more on, though it was bitterly cold. Thank God, no one 
 was hurt, and as the fire spread rapidly, and the cold was 
 very great, there was great cause for thankfulness. 
 Everyone worked well and showed presence of mind, 
 with one or two exceptions, and Clara and Jack were 
 calm and active throiighotit, but it was a dreadful blow. 
 
119 
 
 and I felt quite knocked dovm, and did not recover for 
 some time. 
 
 On Wednesday, ilst January, I accompanied Clara and 
 Arthur, and Miss MacCormack to Barton, where Jack 
 joined us from Ampton. 
 
 On Thursday we drove over there, and I had the 
 melanf.holj satisfaction of seeing the ruins, and trying 
 to find something for Bosa, who had lost everything; 
 alas ! witiiout success. 
 
 Whltahnd, Uorrii k Iiowe, Printan, 9, Fenohnrch Street, E.O,