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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. rrata o )elure, H 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 -THE- \p -■* 'TKi .^, a a,- *w ^ w 'i IS THE Great Pleasure Route, -OFFKIMNfJ A— MOST ATTEAGTIl''E SILEGTION Via NiA(iAitA Fai.i.s, Kiver St. LAW'tEXCE with Thousand Islands and. Kaimds, Monthkai,, QiEHKc. River SAcrENAY, (jUlf Pouts. Jj(»weh Phuvim'ks, Lake C'hampi.ai.v, and Lake Geohoe, Saratoga the White ^lorNTAiss, «tc., &v. THE l|ICHELlEU7\r(D 0NTy\[|10 N/V, GO'S STEAMERS Comprise tin' ori>;iiial Hoyal Mail and Richelieu Lines, with the addition of scvciai new steiiiinTs. tlms forming two first-class Lines of Steamers, which for spccii. siifctv and comfort, cannot be surpassed. They are tlie only lines n(>\i otTcrin^,' Tourists an opportunity to view the MA(LVIF1CENT SCENERY of tile TIIOL'SANI) ISLANDS and RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE, also t lie far tamed KIVEK SAvJUENAY. This route possesses peculiar ad- vantages over any other hetween Niagara Falls and Quebec, and the Tickets are also \aliil l)y Kaii or Steamer. Piilliiian Palace Sleepinj; Cars will be attached to the evenin{< train from Suspension lirid^e. and will nm tln'oufrh to Kingston Wharf, and passengers will remain in tlie viiv until tlie boat arrives. No extra charge for meals be- tween Toronto and ^Montreal. The improved eondition of the (irand Trunk Railway, including its e(iuip- meiU of tlie new Passt iiger Cars, new Locomotives. Steel Tracks, itc. now l)riiigiiig it prominently before the public as a first-class Line, and preferable to the majority of lines between the East and West. The (irand Trund Rail- way, via Corliam and (ileii House, is the only route 1)3' which parties can ascend the I'ar-famed .Mount Wasliington by carriage road, by far the best approach to this attractive mountain range. Tickets and infoiniation may be obtained at the principal Ticket (Offices. Also of tlu' Agents of the Crand Trunk Railway Company, from whom Ex- oiu'sion and Tourists Routes and Riites of fare can be obtained. J. B. LaHKLL^., Manager. A. :\llLLOY, Trafiic Manager. R. & O. N. Co. .loSKPH lllCKSON. (Jeneral Manager. Montreal. W. W VlNWKKillT, Assisttuil Manager. Montreal. L, J. SKAPJJEANT. Traffic Manager Montreal, .1. STEPHENSON. (Jeneral Pas.senger Agent, Montreal. ■THE- .? -or THE— St. Lawrence River AND ITS ENVIRONS, J\ Guide for ll^c Yo'J'^ist arid ^ra^cl er. Llaking a R^uni Trip frcir. Ile-Lv York, via 11. Y. YI. S. anl B. R. R., ani Ontari: anl V/eatern R. R., to Utioa, Syracuse, Rochester, Buifal: ar.l Niagara Falls, Through Lake Cntario, Thousand Islands a:il Rapils of the St. Laivrer.oe Riv-er to Montreal, Que'ceo, Sagu- enay River. Lake Champlain, Lake George, Saratoga, Albany New Y:rk anl Boston. Copyrighted 1 884. K. K. H^HHAOH, Pui3r.i S II B R . KOCHESTEH. N. Y.. I'l.ST-KXPRErJs l>ni.VTIXO COMPANY, l-,> To IS MILL .STREET, 18>4. (( btj:f:f'^^x.o, dst- it. ^niLuiccm anil i^iir^cpKan J^laii. Vm CLARENDON, I SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. (Jpcr) jrorr) Jur)c i5ll). lo Sept. loli). /~-/^0- C*^AS. LOSEKAM, Prop. c'.-)/ "' .c»> ^^ I INTRODUCTION. IN presenting this work, '• The l>hat Boy's Historic De- hneations," with map, giving a birdseye view of the St. Lawrence River from Kingston to Montreal, the only correct maj) ever issued of the St. Lawrence River, to the public, being a round trip from New York to Buffalo, Niagara Falls, Toronto, Kingston, Alexandria Bay, Thou- sand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence to Montreal, Quebec, Lake Champlain, Lake George, Saratoga, Albany. New York and Boston, it may not be amiss to state the fact which prompted its issue. Financial or personal ends are always the paramount object to be at- tained by an individual who i)uts forth anything in this world. I therefore plead guilty to the above charge, and for so doing, propose to give to the tourist or traveler down the majestic St. Lawrence a faithful description of every point of interest that meets the eye of the beholder. Having held the ])osition for the past ten years of " The Guide of the St. Lawrence," and in that capacity made the trip a pleasant one for everybody without regard to age, weight, sex, color, or previous condition of servitude. J feel capable of compiling a book which does not contain any pictorial illustrations of tiie scenic beauty connected with the trip, feeling confident that a plain unvarnished descrip- tion of all the various points of interest would be sufficient. 'Hie tourist can thus feast the eye on a thousand pictures that a volume ten times this size could not contain, for no matter how often you oi)en the eyes during the day, it will fall ui)on some delightful scene, where the (Jod of nature J 3 ^-^^ has smiled upon, within an hour. Neither have I given a highly colored description of the Rapids ; they have been viewed and described by thousands, and the effect produced is as varied in character as the individual writers differed in tenii)erament and looks. Trusting that this volume will meet with as cheerful a greeting by the public as it has always accorded my efforts to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or lonesome traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its mission will have been accomplished. Respectfully Yours, E. F. BABBAGE '' Phat Boy." Guide to the St. Lawrence. ALTMAN 6l CO., MANUFACTURERS OF MEN'S, BOYS' AND YOUTHS' CLOTHING. 68, 70 & 72 SENECA STREET, N. B.— Our New Departure, a Retail Department. A sm2;le suit sold at wholesale prices. (> t 4 REFERENCES FOR THIS WORK. We have a number of references as to the worth of this little volume. Space and time forbid a mention of them all; some of the most j^jminent will suffice. 1. At Alexandria Bay last season, a lady had the misfortune to sprain her ankle, (no matter how ; but we will say, least some one may be led astray as to the real cause, that it was not done falling or stumbling over the editor.) We very kindly gave her a copy of the - Phat boy's" Delineations of the St. Lawrence River, and she was able to walk in ten hours after the accident, apparently as well as ever. 2. This volume will not bring home a stray cow; but it will do the next best thing : milk them in the pasture, thus saving the wear and tear incident to their coming home. 3. Two strangers in town desired to see the sights ; they bought a copy and have been happy ever since. 4. A lady who had one copy ( by the way. she was mar- ried,) wrote for the second; it was sent to her; but mean- while she had changed her residence to the Lunatic Asylum. Now here is a chance for married men who wish to become single for 25 cents. Send for a copy. 5. A very restless, nervous man bought a copy ; read to page 20, went to sleep quietly for ten hours. First good rest in four years. 6. It is good for maiden ladies ; has been known to cure headache, toothache, sprains, bruises, ingrowing nails, and it matters not. 7. Eli Perkins will read a copy of this work, August 25th, 1884, and from that day until death will speak the truth. HISTORIC DELINEATIO: — OF — THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands and rapids, is day by day attracting more and more attention among tourists. There is so much that is grand weird sublime and exhilerating in the scenery and balmy atmosphere of the majestic river, as it passes n. its on- ward flow from the lake to the gulf, that we need no for a moment wonder why it is that there is a great annual m- crease in the number of those intelligent people, who, from East West and South, repair to its placid waters m summer to recuperate their wasted energies and enjoy that luxurat- ino season known to every American as " vacation." A vacation on the St. Lawrence, means a sojourn at some pretentous or lowly cotrage, or at some hotel of either class for a few days, or for one, two or more vveeks, as the time, finances and inclination of the individual may dictate ; or it may, as in hundreds of instances it does only include a voyage of rapid transit from New York o Utica, Oswego, Niagara Falls, Toronto or Kingston to Alexandria Bay o^r Montreal then return home. There are several dif- ferent popular starting places to reach the river ; it is pre- sumed vou will take the most convenient one, and we will consider ourselves pleased with the selection. i Route A. :\ Islands and more : is grand, nd balmy in its on- ed not for annual in- who, from in summer It luxurat- >n. sOJourn at e hotel of lore weeks, vidual may does, only k to Utica, Alexandria several dif- r ; it is pre- and we will THE WEST SHORE ROUTE. THE TOURIST ROUTP: OF THE NORTTI. While nrriy suppose that both sides of tlv^ ^ludson River present eciual attraction— and 't would hv hard to deride which is the most beautiful— it is a curious fact that all, or nearly all, the noted summer resorts for which the counlrv adjacent is famous are located on its western bank. Thus, starting from New York and following up the West Shore Route, we find the Palisades, Tappan, Rockland Lake, Stony Point, Cranston's, West Point, Cornwall, Lakes Mohonk and Minnewaska, the Catskills, Saratoga, Mount McGregor, and the Adirondacks (in which the great river rises), all on the same side, and all easily accessil)le by the New York, West Shore and Buffalo Railway. In addition to these, the magnificent cars of this route convey the traveler to Lake George, Lake Champlain and Montreal, on the north; Sharon Springs, Cooperstown, Richfield Springs, Niagara Falls, Buffalo ?nd Chatauqua Lake, and make close connections for all the White Mountain and Eastern resorts, for the Thousand Islands, Watkin's Glen and the Lake region of Central New York. It is thus em 8 phatically the tourists route of the north, and, reahzing this fact its projectors and managers have done everything ni their power to render it attractive to this constantly increas- ing and most fastidious class of travelers. While traversinsT the most picturesque portions of a State noted for its scenery, this railway is the most complete m all details of construction and equipment of any in this country. It is a double track, steel rail line, with an un- usually wide space between tracks, running north from Jer- sey City along the west shore of the Hudson to Albany, and thence through the fertile Valley of the Mohawk and across Central New York, touching at Utica, Syracuse and Rochester, to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. Its grades are easv, its curves are light, its steel rails are among the heavi- est known in railway construction, and its road-bed will be crowned with a deep ballasting of stone. Owing to this excellent road-bed and the great strength of its iron bridges this comi^any has been able to build ex- ceptionally heavy locomotives for its various classes of traffic The passenger engines l)urn anthracite coal, and are de- si<.ned to haul trains of from ten to fifteen coaches at a high ra'te of sj^eed. They are provided with special arrange- ments in the fire and smoke boxes and smoke stacks to consume all gases, and to prevent the escape of smoke or cinders. LOCOMOTIVES, CARS AND STATION HOUSES. The entire passenger equipment of the road was especi- ally designed and built by the Pullman Palace Car Com- pany, and is the most complete in all details pertaining to elegance of finish, comfort and safety in the world. From :ing this thing in increas- • a State plete in r in this 1 an un- rom Jer- any, and 1(1 across use and ades are [le heavi- l will be strength build ex- of traffic. d are de- at a high arrange- stacks to smoke or i TOUSES. j as especi- Car Com- taining to Id. From the palatial buffet cars, with interiors finished in variegated hard-woods and furnished with plate-glass mirrors, luxurious arm-chairs, soft carpets and rich drapery, to the smoking cars, finished with figured oak and provided with revolving chairs, upholstered in leather, all are the most perfect speci- mens of the car-builder's art extant. The exterior of the cars making up West Shore passenger trains is painted in a rich dark olive and gold, which produces a most pleasing effect. The station houses erected along the entire route from New York to Buffalo are architectural gems, harmonious in color and design with the beautfful and picturescpie scenery through which the road passes. Those at the New York terminus, at Kingston, Albany, Utica, Syracuse and Buffalo will, when finished, surpass in com|)leteness and artistic de- sign any series of railway stations ever erected by a single company. THE NEW YORK STATION. The New York terminus of this great railway was pro jected upon a scale of vastness and perfection of detail com- mensurate with the rest of the magnificent scheme. It is at Weehawken, opposite the heart of the great city, ami close beneath the height on which Alexander Hamilton fell before the pistol of Aaron Burr. It extends for more than a mile along the river front, and, with its numerous docks and piers, presents nearly six miles of working si)ace in which vessels of every description may receive freight. From here commodious and elegantly appointed ferry-boats run to the handsome up-town passenger station at the foot of I'orty- secoi.d Street. As the express trains of the West Shore mm lO Route are also despatched from the depot of the Pennsyl- vania Railroad in Jersey City, they are accessible from the foot of Desbrosses or Cortlandt Streets in New York, and from the foot of Fulton Street, Brooklyn. The passenger from New York has thus an option of starting from any one of half a dozen points, a great convenience when one con- siders the peculiar position and length of the city. Pas- sengers are cautioned to consult official time-tables m the Company's publications, or in the leading newspapers, with the view of ascertaining just what trains leave from and ar- rive at the Jersey City station. All trains leave from and arrive at the up-town station foot of West Forty-second v^treet while onlv the through express trains have connec- tions to and from both the Weehawken and Jersey City stations. In the subsequent pages one may obtain partial ghmpses of some of the innumerable delightful places to which this highway for business and pleasure travel will guide him, and a few hints of the many pleasures in store for his summer holiday. BETWEEN NEW YORIC AND THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. VIA. N. Y., ONTARIO & WESTERN RY. This new line between New York and Alexandria Bay offer the attractions of a cool, delightful morning sail, from Oswego across the blue waters of Lake Ontario to Kingston, and from there to Alexandria Bay, arriving at the latter point at 2 p. m. The new palace steamer " Ontario," leaves Oswego at 8:15 a. m., on arrival of the Night Express, leaving New York, Cortlandt and Desbrosses Street Ferries at 6:50 p. m., II s Pennsyl- i from the Vork, and passenger m any one 1 one con- :ity. Pas- bles in the apers, with Dm and ar- i from and Drty-second ,ve connec- ersey City al glimpses » which this ie him, and his summer lOUSAND andria Bay ig sail from o Kingston, t the latter Oswego at eaving New t 6:50 p. m., and foot of West Forty-second Street at 7:00 p. m. The train is equipped with Pullman Buffet Palace Sleepers, the finest ever put in the public service. The route from New York is one of great beauty and interest. Leaving New Vork, the line runs along the west shore of the Hudson, through the cool shadows of the Highlands, along the base of " Dunderberg " and '' Storm King," traversing all the historic and picturesque points along that world- famed stream, with its constant surprises of bold promontory, broad, lake-like expanse, beetling cliff and gently sloping plain, past views unequaled by any river scenery in the world, through a country whose eventful memories are in- terwoven with the earliest history of our land, "reaching far back to the time when truth vanished into tradition " ; under the famous military school at West Point, and reach- ing Cornwall, the line, bending to the west, crosses the counties of Orange, Sullivan, Delaware, Otsego, Chenango, Madison, Oneida and Oswego, rising at points to an eleva- tion of over 2,000 feet above the sea ; crossing the beau- tiful and fertile valleys of the Delaware, Susquehanna and Chenango Rivers, and arriving in Oswego at 7:50 a. m., have breakfast on the steamer and ready to enjoy a beauti- ful ride across the sparkling waters of Lake Ontario, arriv- ing in Kingston at 12:30 p. m., and Alexandria Bay at 2 p. m. The night trains run every day, including Sunday, and the steamer Ontario runs every day from Oswego, includ- ing Sunday. Returning, steamer leaves Alexandria Bay at 3:30 p. m., Clayton 4:30 p. m., Kingston 5:15 p. m., ar- riving in Oswego at 10:00 p.m. Day train leaves New York at 9:15 a. m., arrives in Oswego 10:30 p. m. it 'I 12 At Alexandria Bay, connection is made with the steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company Royal Mail Line, leaving every morning at 7:30 a. m., except Monday, for Montreal, and all landings on St. Lawrence River. No change of cars between New York and Oswego. Excursion Rates from New York, Brooklyn, Jersey City, $15.00. Single rates, $8 20. From Albany, $10.00 and 85.40. From Utica, $6.50 and 3.50. Oneida or Oneida Castle. -^5.25 and 3.25. From Syracuse, $5.25 and $3.75. Buffalo $10.00 and $6.00. A CHAPTER ON THE FALLS. They are talking of making Niagara Falls free ! That is splendid. The only thing free now is air, and you must be careful where you breathe it at that — they are trying to get a corner on the commodity. Every work written, or guide issued, has been under the patronage of the schemes, devices, etc., at the Falls, and have always lauded the proprietors of them to the skies. (T don't know as T ought to be sorry for that, it is probably the only source left open that could secure them a position above.) I shall take the opposite course and tell you what not to see or the mistakes of many who have visited the Falls, that like square deal- ing. I St. — Pay no attention or money to hackmen, no matter in what guise they appear. I have known them to come in five kinds of shapes, but it was the same old hack- man, whether he solicited you from his hack at the depot, or took an off-hour and worked the porch or parlor of the hotel, or became a steerer for some of the curiosity shops, or assume the guise of a guide, or basking in the sunshine - steamers iny Royal n., except Lawrence Vork and ersey City, lo.oo and or Oneida and $3.75- S ee ! That I you must I trying to written, or le schemes, lauded the as T ought :e left open all take the he mistakes quare deal- ackmen, no vn them to ne old hack- the depot, )arlor of the osity shops, he sunshine 13 or shade as a philanthropist, a bunco steerer, or what not, take off his mask and he is still the same old hackman. 2d. — Close the eye against the pamphlet entitled " Don't walk yourself tired and then see notliing. take a hack," for what they want is a " hack" at your cash. I say, take my book and read "How to see Niagara Falls for 50 cents." Not too much walk in that, nor too much talk, but just walk and talk enough. They have no love for me at the Falls, the fate of Capt. Webb, or worse, await.j me there by those unscrupulous men I liave exi)osed, so they say. I have no fears, if the truth cuts let it cut. There were two honest men in the old city of Sodom, so there is in Niagara, and one keeps a hotel, and I expect no favor, remuneration or reward for speaking his name because I am too truthful to omit it, therefore will say he keeps the Hotel Kaltei bach. It took me three months to find the other one, but he is there, unless removed for cause the same as 1 would be if I return. Look them up, they are the curiosities of the place in my opinion. No honest person fears exposure, but when one ventilates fraud, schemes, devices and thievery it is expected that those interested will squeal. Some people at the Falls know by this time that I am too heavy to be treading around on their corns. HOW TO SEE NIAGARA FALLS FOR FIFTY CENTS. FOR publishing the truths on the preceding pages (12 cV i3)the '' Phat Boy " has been Boycotted by the hotels at Niagara Falls, and the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Co., and Grand Trunk Railroad are threatened, if I am if 14 r ii ' t "I t placed there this season to labor in their interest. Hoping this will meet the eye of those who come up from the South the coming season, that when they do not find me as they expected, they may know the cause. I will not waste space with an apology, but proceed to inform everybody how they can see Niagara Falls for Fifty Cents — all the grand sights, without falling into the many schemes, skins and catches for the unwary. Stop at Buffalo at the New Genesee, or the Tifi't House, and after breakfast take the train for Niagara Falls. Arriving at the depot,, pass out the front door, and when you place your foot upon the sidewalk, you must not be only deaf but dumb, and pay no attention to anyone, but turn to the right and pro- ceed down the street, (passing my friend Perry Hirsches', if you want anything call,) until you come to the entrance to the Prospect Park ; don't go in, but turn to the right and the walk will lead you to the new Suspension Bridge. Pay your fare over (which is twenty-five cents), enjoy all the sights of the Falls and river while crossing, and when you arrive on the Canada side you are still deaf and dumb, remember. Proceed down the roadway on the left to the bed of the river ; there you take the ferry boat, by paying twenty-five cents more, which lands you on the American shore. Take in all the sights under the falls ; do not be roped into put- ting on any rubber clothing, etc., but drink in all the beau- ties of nature until satisfied. You can take the inclined railroad to the top of the bank, and you are in Prospect Park. Look this delightful spot all over, and when it is time, pass out of the center gate and proceed to the depot, where the train in waiti.^g will take you back to Buftalo in time for dinner. \ Hoping the South lie as they proceed to is for Fifty ) the many . at Buffalo :r breakfast the depoty r foot upon dumb, and ;ht and pro- iches',ifyou ranee to the o;ht and the . Pay your the sights of )u arrive on ., remember, i bed of the y twenty-five liore. Take led into put- all the beau- the inclined in Prospect nd when it is to the depot, to Buffalo in I 15 As many of the tourists leave Niagara Falls in the morn- ing at ten o'clock by rail to Lewiston, and connect with tlie boat for Toronto, I will mention the places and points. LEWISTON. This village is situated at the head of navigation, on the Lower Niagara, and is a place of considerable importance. It lies three miles below the Devil's Hole, and seven miles below the Falls. Lewiston is a pleasant, well built village, but its commercial prosi)ects have been very much injured by the construction of the Erie and Welland Canals. QUEENSTON is a small village situated nearly o])])osite to Lewiston, and contains about 350 inhabitants. It is associated in history with the gallant defence made by the British on the adjac- ent heights in the war of 181 2. The villaf^e is i)leasantly situated, but has suffered from the same causes that have retarded the growth of Lewiston. The river here becomes more tranquil, the shores less broken and wild, and the change in the scenery affords a pleasing transition from the sublime to the beautiful. BROCK'S MONUMENT. The monument stands on the Heights of Queenston, from whence the village derives its name. The present structure occupies tlie site of the former one, which was blown uj) by some miscreant on the 17th of April, 1840. riie whole edifice is 185 feet high ; on the sub-base, which ''j-'i. i6 is 40 feet square and 30 feet high, are placed four Hons, fac- ing North, South, East and West ; the base of the pedestal is 21^ feet square and 10 feet high ; the pedestal itself is 16 feet scjuare and 10 feet high, surmounted by a heavy corn- ice, ornamented with lions' heads and wreaths in alto relievo. In ascending from the top of the pedestal to the top of the base of the shaft, the form changes from square to round. The shaft is a fluted column of free-stone, 75 feet high and 10 feet in diameter, on which stands a Corinthian capital 10 feet high, whereon is wrought, in relief, a statue of the Goddess of War. On this capital is the dome 9 feet high, reached by 250 spiral steps from the base, on the inside. On the top of the dome is placed a colossal statue of General Brock. T FORT NIAGARA. This fort stands at the mouth of the Niagara river, on the American side. There are many interesting associa- tions connected with this spot, as during the early part of the past century, it was the scene of many severe conflicts between the whites and Indians, and subsequently between the English and French. The names of the heroic La Salle, the courdy l)e Nouville and the gallant Prideaux will long retain a name in the history of this country. The vil- lage adjacent to the fort is called Youngtown, in honor of its founder, the late John Young, Esq. NIAGARA, is one of the oldest towns in Ontario and was formerly the capital of the Province. It is situated where the old town of Newark stood, and is opposite to Youngtown. It faces 17 THE QUEENS HOTEL TORONTO. THE LARGEST AND BEST HOTEL IN THE CITY. Re-modeled, Re-decorated and Enlarged for Season of 1884. The Coolest Summer House in Canada. Beautiful Croquet and Chevalier Lawns. ELECTRIC BELLS, ELEVATORS, BATHS, ETC. The residence, when in the City, of the Governor General THE TABLE IS UNSURPASSED L\ CANADA. Porters Meet all Boats and Trains. McGAW & WINNETT, Props. ALSO TKOPKIETOKS QUEENS ROYAL, TECUMSEH HOUSE, Niagara, Okt. London, Ont. i8 the river on one side of Lake Ontario. The trade of this j)la(:e has been (Hverted to St. Catherines since the comple- tion of the Welland canal, and the other towns upon the Niagara river have suffered in common from the same cause. Ill- THE CITY OF TORONTO. Toronto, the cai)ital city of the Province of Ontario, is situated on a circular bay of the same name, and was founded by (iovernor Simcoe, in 1794. The city was for- merly called York. Toronto bay is a beautiful inlet, sepa- rated from the main body of Lake Ontario, except at its entrance, by a long, narrow sandy beach. The South-West- ern extremity is called Gibralter Point. It is 165 miles from Kingston, 45 miles from Hamilton, and 50 miles from the falls of Niagara. The population in 17 17 was 1,200; but at the present time it amounts to about 75,000. The city is laid out at right angles. Its chief public buildings are the cathedrals and churches, the Parliament House, University of Toronto, Trinity College, Normal School, St. Michael's College, Osgoode Hall, St. Lawrence Hall, Me- chanics Institute, Provincial Lunatic Asylum, post-office, exchange and city schools. Its system of free public schools is one of the most perfect and best conducted in America. Among the many pleasant drives around this city the traveler should visit College Avenue and the Queen's Park. In this park is erected a statue of the Queen and a monument to commemorate the college youths who fell at Ridgeway defending the country from the attacks of the Fenians. The University of Toronto, a most magnificent building, is also situated in this ])ark. 19 The Parliament of Ontario and the principal law courts are held in this city. It is connected by the Grand Trunk Railway and steamboats for all points. The best hotel in Toronto is the (Queen's— Messrs. McCiaw cV Winnett, pro- prietors. This beautiful house has every modern improve- ment and comfort ; it has a passenger elevator, and in case of fire would be one of the very safest hotels in America, as it is for the most part but three stories high, and is on all sides surrounded by wide, open space. PORT HOPE is situated 65 miles from Toronto. A small stream, which here falls into the lake, has formed a valley, in which the town is located. The harbor at the mouth of this stream is shallow, but safe and commodious. Port Hope is a prettv town; on the western side the hills rise gradually one above the other. The highest summit, called '• Fort Orton," af- fords a fine prospect, and overlooks the country for a great distance. The village is incorporated ; po]3ulation, about COBOURG, seven miles below Port Hope, contains 6,000 inhabitants. It has seven churches, two banks, three grist mills, two founderies, and the largest cloth factory in the Province. It is also the seat of Victoria College and Theological Institute. Midway between Port Hope and Cobourg is " Duck Island," on which a light-house is maintained by the government. 20 For the bent'tit of all we submit the following time-table — not forgetting to mention that steamboats are not infalli- ble, but are governed by man. accomi)anied by steam, wind and water. If the boat is one hour late in starting from any gi\en ]ioint. it is likely she will remain so, as I know of bur one boat in the line that can beat or surpass schedule time. T.FAVINT, EVERY DAY — srXDAVS EXCEPTED. Toronto (Smulay Ex- Moiiisl)uri>- lL':(>') p. m. cei'ted 2:00 Coteau Landing 4:00 Cedar Rapid 4:o0 Indian Pilot 0:00 Montreal 7:00 u it ^^ (( ii It a a u We assume that we are now fairl)- entering on the ma- jestic stream on the Canadian side. THE CITY OF KINGSTON, which has a ])opulation of 15,000. was founded in 1672, by Governor DeCourcelles, receiving the name of Fort Cata- raqui. Later, :; massive stone fort was built by Count De Frontenac, and received his name. In 1762 the place was taken by the British, who gave it its present name. As a place of defense it stands next in strength to Quebec. The u a u u u t( (( i l)atteries of Fort Henry are calculated for the reception of numerous cannon and mortars of the largest caHhre. These, together with neighboring martello towers, form a formida- ble defense against any aggressive movement which might be directed against the city. These fortifications are seen to excellent advantage from the steamer soon after it leaves the dock. On the right is Garden Island ; on the left. Cedar Island, and behind is Fort Henry. There is here. also, in view, the round stone towers referred to above. Near the middle of the river is Wolf or Long Island, 21 miles long, and 7 miles vvi,'; near the Western end. 'Hierc is nothinu either of romance or historical ei)isode to weave into our story concerning the inhabitants of this, the largest of the Thousand Island group. Suffice it to say, that the terri- tory is a portion of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits of civilized life characterize the peo])le. Between one channel and the main land there is St. John's or Howe Island, of no mean proportions. Ordinarly, we have now sjDent about one hour on the steamer from Kingston, and come to the ])oint in the chan- nel where we must diverge either for Gananocpie, or Clav- ton. We are bound for the former. If the boat takes the American channel, (for description turn to Roi.te B page 27). As soon as the lighthouse on Burnt Island comes in view, we may be said to have fairly entered upon the real beauty of the " sacred river of America." In steering for Gananotiue. we pass many pretty little isles of six or eight acres. On the right is a range light, the boat, of course, jjassing be- tween the two. It is said that from the deck of the steamer one hundred islands can be counted — in fact, the ])anorama )-^f 22 :s probably matchless on the globe. While the islands are so numerous both on the right and left, the boat glides by in its efforts to reach Gananoque without allowing the tourist to be distracted in the rapture of delight that is feasting his eyes. Some of these isles are scarcely more than barren rocks, while others are paradises of verdure. Names of Islands that are numbered on the Phat Boy's Map of the St. Lawrence, because the space would not permit printing the names in full : 53. Robinson, 54. Calumet, 56. Seven, 57 Pratt, 58. Wan Winnet, 59. Cuba, 60. Devil's Oven, 61. Cherry, 61^ Southgate, R. H. 62. Pullman, 63. Nobby, 64. Welcome, 65. Friendly, 66. Florence, 67. Bay View, late Maud, 68. Imperial, 70. Resort, 71. Deshler, 72. Kipp, 73. Terry, 75. Judge Donahue, 79. Proctor, 80. Pike, 81. Idlewild, 82. Little Lehigh, 83- Sport, '^' > Summer Land Group, 55. ) 86. Arcada, 88. Schooner, 94. Snake, 95. Float, 96. Milk, 97. Sugar, 100. Wallace, 102. Deer, 107. Hoopers, 108. Shanter, 109. Rattle Snake, 111. Round, 112. Poverty, I [4. Hemlock, 'i I T Snipe, 116. Three Brothers, 2 3 1 1 7. Half Way. 137. Brush. 139. Flat, 1 41. Round To|), 142. Indian Chief, 143. Pine Tree, 144. Middle, 145. Big, 146. wShoeniakers, 147. Bill Berry, 148. Ras])berry, T49. Bush, 150. Coles and Smith, 151. H. A. Fields. 160. Melville, 163. l)ixon, 164. McGraw, 165. Sears. 166. Benedict. 167. Ruycraft. 169. Deniston. We now reach Inisy and ]jicturesque GANANOQUE, iiihr.bited by about three thousand people, eighteen miles FLast of Kingston, nearl}- the center of the Thousand Is- lands. It may be well to state here that authorities (?) dif- fer as to how many islands there really are. Some say fif- teen hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others carefully write, nearly two thousand. Fife is too short for us to stop and count these natural beauties, and even the pilots have no desire to earn fame as statisticians by asserting the cor- rect number. The •• I'hat Boy " has just issued the only correct maj) of the St. Fawrence River, published, which will not be misleading to the student of minute details. But we digress. \\'e are still at Gananocjue. It is com|)aratively easy to get away, for steamers ply along this Canada shore, keeping well north of the manv islands, till thev get to Brockville. \\'e soon pass a light on the left called Jack Straw, and on n w '- 24 the right observe a beacon and pier. Further along, another hglit comes in view. The next attractive spot is called by the quaint name of Fiddler's Elbow. The tradi- tions connected with such names are sometimes thrilling and sometimes insipid ; but whether the one or the other, they will continue to stick, but if they serve to indelibly im- press upon our memory some pleasing reminiscence of a •' thing of beauty," these names will not be by any means evanescent in their influence. As we frequently say, the elbow is still here, but the fiddler is, I guess, over at the camp meeting on Well's island. He is probably first cousin of " The Arkansas Traveler." But here we are in a tortuous channel, AMONG THE ISLANDS. It must not be supposed that these hundreds of islands are all occupied and have cottages on them, or laid out with walks and fountains. For every island ihot has a house on it there are perhaps twenty that have none. The number of houses are increasing every year, and I think that in time nearly every island will be occupied in the Ca- nadian channel as they are in the American. On the left is Darling's dock, the famous wood station. We have, as yet, never seen the " Darling," although the dock is always visible. It may be she is busy in the pantry washing dishes. Two miles and a half below is ROCKPO.RT. This name would seem to have been given the place on account of its rocky formation. It is avowed here that fai dr to Tl ge T ri\ along, ; spot is le tradi- thrilling le other, libly im- ice of a y means say, the he camp ousin of f islands laid out ?t has a le. The 1 I think n the Ca- d station, ough the he pantry ; place on here that 25 there are only two seasons ; the rocky season and the icy season. Most of the visitors come here in the " rocky sea- son." Directly opposite on the right, the Park House on \^'estminister park is visible ; also the fine chapel on Mt. Beulah. its tower being 136 feet high. On the left is Gre- nadier Island Light-house. From the deck of our steamer, looking to the right, we now ha\'e one of the most charming views on the St. Law- rence. Alexandria Bay is before us, and the famous Thous- and Island House and Crossmon House can be seen on yonder shore. Within the range of our vision are also the islands transformed by wealth, taste and art into the loveli- est of Summer resorts by their owners, namely : P'airvland (seven acres), C. H. & W. B. Hayden, Columbus, Ohio ; Idlewild (four acres). R. A. Packer, Sayre, Pa. ; and Sport (four acres), H. A. Packer, Mauch Chunk, Pa., who died in 1884. Occujiied this season by H. C. Will)ur and friends. The scene at night on these islands is enchanting almost beyond description. An ai)proved gas machine su])|)lies the illumination for hundreds of colored lamps susi)ended in graceful designs on Sport Island, which is connected with the other Packer island 1)y a wire susj)ension bridge. In the distance, one mile, still looking to the right, is the famous Whiskey island. A pilot of the Canadian line got drunk at his post and fell into an oblivious condition ; the steamboat, under full headway, struck the island, and the name was given in commemoration of that event. Next, to the right, is a stone edifice called the 'Hiree Sisters light. They were formerly " old maids." but are now joined to- gether by a stone wall, consequently old maids no longer. The next in order is Cross-over light. At this point in the river the steamer crosses to the American channel, and in tf f 26 a very short time is discovered to be making for the Cana- dian channel acrain to reach Brockville. Befcbre the tourist gets there, however, he will observe numerous Islands ; the most noted are Bathhurst, Tecumseh, Star, McDonald and Hill Crest. On the left, on the main Canadian shore, com- modious and elegant villas are in view; also St. Lawrence Park, picnic and pleasure grounds of Brockville and vicinity. All Summer long, the scene is animated and captivating. The whistle announces in its shrill way that we are now at 'S BROCKVILLE, which was named in honor of General Brock, who fell in Queenston Heights, in the war of 18 12. It is situated on the Canadian side of the St. LawTence, and is one of the pleasantest villages in the Province. It is right at the foot of the Thousaiid Islands, on an elevation of land, which rises from the river in a succession of ridges. The town was laid out in 1S02. and is now a place of considerable importance. The present population is about 6,500. After leaving the wharf, the boat passes the most beauti- ful clift" on the river, the palisades of the St. Lawrence, on which are erected magnificent mansions and suburban villas of Canada's d.istinguishtd sons. The most prominent of these is the son of Sir Hugh Allan, whose residence is in- deed superb. The sight-seer observes the winding stairs, boat and bath houses, and other appointments of recrea- tion. Having already intimated that there are other routes which lead to the point in the river which we have now reached, we return westward to bring another party through the American channel. tl Tl( is fo 27 e Caua- i tourist (Is ; the aid and re, com- awrence vicinity, tivating. i now at 10 fell in .lated on e of the the foot d, which 'he town siderable o. it beauti- •ence, on jan villas linent of ice is in- ig stairs, )f recrea- ijr routes have now y through R OUTE 'b; The boats of the R. cSc O. N. Co. Royal Mail line leave 'Ihigston at five o'clock a. isi., except on Monday, and the steamer Ontario leaves Kingston at 12:30 p. m., every day for Alexandria Bay, where its passengers connect every morning except Monday by the Royal M^il Line for Montreal, etc. For the first three-quarters of an hour, there is nothing €si)ecially worthy of note. Then we strike the cross-over channel. Now, the time is early morning, the sun is quite bright, and the atmosphere is remarkably clear. The scene is now attractive. Look ahead in the distance a little to the left, and you will behold the eagle tree. Hundreds have been deceived with the idea that it was an actural live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring aloft to a height that the imagination can scarcely reach. It is a delusion ; 'tis nothing but a tree, as its true features, or rather beautiful foliage, has deceived the eye of the novice of this region. On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organized community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for the edu- cation of whose children a school is maintained. CLAYTON is in the American channel. In the distant front, just be- fore landing, we have a magnificent view of Prospect i)ark S 28 and hill, a delightful spot for recreation and pleasure. No Ijetter view can be had of the islands and surrounding country than from the eminence of the hill. Clayton is our first stopping place. It is a village that derives its impor- tance to tourists as being the terminus of the Utica and Black River Railroad, and here it is where passengers from the East generally get their first glimpse of the St. Lawrence- There are two good hotels, the Hubbard and Walton Houses, kept by two as genial landlords as ever lived, and from the town many fishing parties go out daily. The steamer J. F. Maynard runs from this port in connection with the above named railroad for Alexandria Bay and other landing ])laces eii route. Opposite Clayton, on the left as we proceed down the river, is Governor Island, owned by Hon. Thomas G. Alvord, of Syracuse. Next to Gov. Alvord's Isle on left is Calumet, five acres, owned by Chas. E. Emery, of Old Judge cigarette and tobacco fame, and has lavishly expended a large amount of money for comfort. His villa and apartments are quite striking. The next island on the left, about 200 yards distant, is Powder Horn. The origin of this *'' eui)honious" name has not been handed down by tradition. On the right is Washington Island ; on the left, nearly ojjposite, is Bluff Island, and behind which is Robin's Island. Next, on the right, over two miles from Cla\ton, is ROUND ISLAND and i)ark. This is the property of the Baptist Association, ar.vl every year people of this persuasion in large numbers gather for religious worship and recreation. There is a temperance hotel, fitted with the modern appointments, for ^^^ajSLI ire. No rounding on is our s impor- tica and ^ers from .awrence- L Walton ived, and ily. The jtion with .nd other le left as owned by to Gov. by Chas. fame, and comfort, lie next er Horn, n handed and ; on d which liles from sociation, numbers here is a lients, for 29 the accommodation of 300 guests, named the Rountl Island House. Tiie docks are in excellent condition, and the fish- ing boats are favorites. On the left is Little Round Island and '• Hog's Back." We have now several cottages in view; the one i)ainted dark brown is owned by Mr. Harbodle. On the point is Ethelridge cottage, and many others not known to me. Leaving Round Island, and looking in the distant front. we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. About one mile from Round Island on the right is Watch Island or '* Indolence." owned by S. T. .Skinner. On the left are Blurt", Maple and Hemlock, the three pretty islands fronting the foot of Grindstone Island. On Hemlock is the Cliff House, owned by Mr. Garrison, of .Syracuse. About five minutes after leaving Round Island, we come in sight of Hub Island and House, burned in March, 1884; which lie on the left ; Grinnell's Island and House ; Otsego Camp is also on the left. On the right is Fishers landing, Rc^biiison's island, owned by F.ugene Robinson. New York baii^er and broker (he broke Drew), Johnson's light, Washburn Island and Frederick Island. Mr. Johnson, the original liglit-house keeper, and at'ter whom the Island is named, was the man who burned the Robert Peel, the English vessel, in retaliation for sending the Carolina over Niagara Falls. Just before landing at Thousand Island Park. upj)er end of Well's Island, now called Wellesley Island, is Twin Island, owned by J. L. Huntington. On the left, and in connec- tion with the Thousand Island Park, is the bath house, where the Methodists can get baptism, a la Bob Ingersoll. with soap. Said to be good for this world, if not hereafter. We now land at 30 THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. The boat lands at the western end of Wells Island, at a fine wharf, and close to a large number of handsome cot- tages. You can tell what the place is the moment you api)roach it. Tiiere is no mistaking a Methodist Summer camp, find it where you will. It is always neat and clean and orderly. This is the Thousand Island Park, a Metho- dist resort, oi)ened in 1873. Although the scenery is some- what marred by the great number of solemn-faced clergy- men strolling about the grounds, it is still one of the most beautiful s})0ts to be found among the islands. Camp- meetings are held here ; also Sunday-school and temperance and educational conventions, and other meetings all through the Summer. A large and spacious hotel completed, will open about July loth. The name was originally Thousand Island Cam[) Ground, but was changed in 1878 to its i)fes- ent name. Again on our way. the first house on the left is owned by Harlow J. Remington, Ilion, whose fame and fortune is in riries. Next on the left Wellesley House and beautiful cottage. On the right, handsome villas line the shore of the island. About half a mile from Wellesley House i> Jolly Oak ])oint, with its four cottages, two owned by the Norton brothers, a third by Dr. Ferguson, and the fourth by Hon. W. W. Butterfield, of Redwood. From here to Lookout point is about half a mile ; and next is Rood'^ place, with a fine dock and good accommodations for tour ists. About two hundred yards below is Peel's dock wherr the boat Robert Peel was burned in 183 7. Robin's cot tage, 100 feet to the left ; a little below on the right is tlu fiirm of Captain Jack ; you can see the old saw-mill in a 1 (is land, at a jome cot- .ment you t Summer and clean a Metho- •y is some- ed clergy- f the most s. Cami)- emperance all through pleted, will Thousand to its pies- owned by »rtune is in I beautiful e shore ol House ii^ ned by the the fourth >m here t^i is Roo(V^ ns for tour lock where obin's cot right is thi ,v-mill in a 31 dilapidated condition on the bank. Opposite on the left is the celebrated Liinburger cheese factory. (Post mortem examinations held here weekly.) (This ''goak " would take better if you was just introduced to Limburger for the tirst time.) On the right is Collins' dock ; below a few teet is Calumet Island, and cottage, owned by Rev. Henry G. W'aite, of llion, N. Y. On the right lies the remains of old Cai)tain Jack's boat, gone to rest. * * * Here you are expected to drop a tear. Brown's Bay on the left and Swan Bay on the right. Passing the bays, we come on the right to Central Park, formerly (irinnell's Point and parade ground, purchased by parties antl laid out for a park. Foot of Central Park is Page point, a former wood station for the N. T. Co.'s line of steamers. On the right is Point \'ivian, a beautiful spot occupied by probably a community of friends. They have ])leasant cottages in which they si)end a week or two enjoying choice society. Op|)osite is Dens- more Bay and Mclntyre's cottage, called " Photo." Mr. Mclntyre is known as the picture man or artist of the Thousand Islands. He has unquestionably the finest col- lection of views that have ever been made of the grand scenery. Next on the left is Winslow Point and Seven Isles. Below on the left is Louisiana Point, owned by Judge La- batte, of New Orleans. Opposite is Centennial Isle. Next on the right, is Warner's Isle. Beyond is Hill's Isle, and then Devil's Rock and Oven. It of course derives its name from the j)eculiar natural for- mation, that of an old Dutch oven, and it is said to have been the hiding place of old Bill Johnston, who is remem- bered as mixed up in the border troubles of 1837. In 1" 32 The Thousand Island House. Situated on tlie River St. Lawrence, at Alexandria Bay, Jefierson County, New York, and in the immediate vicinity of the far-famed THOUSAND ISLANDS, Tlic verv Mecca of Pleasure-Seekers. The Cs. :ity. Tlie li elevator, iched, and he guests. [tiful, with [erv in the r, llUNT- llNG AL- lleiUictions I Arthur, in iw York. front is Cuba Isle, owned by W. F. Storey, of l^iitialo. and occui^ied b}' Nfr. Kaston, of Brooklyn, N. V. Next on tlie right is Cherry Isle, u\}on which cottages are erected, one of which is occupied by Rev. George Rockwell, of Fukon. N. v.. who was formerly pastor of the first Reformed Church organized in Alexandria Hay. The large brown cottage on Cherry Island named Melrose is jointly owned by Mrs. A. B. Pullman and Mrs. G. B. Marsh. On the right is the Rev. R. H. Pullman's island ; the cottage is painted brown. Op])osite on the left is Pullman, Nobby, Friendly, Welcome, Florence, Imperial and Bay View. This group may be seen from the deck of the steamer in the order given. Here we shoot into ALEXANDRIA BAY, whicii is three or four miles long, and one-and-a-half miles wide, reaching from the shore, on the American side, to Wells Island. The chief feature around liere is the grand hotels — the larizest known as the Thousand Island House ; the finest building on the St. Lawrence river. FYom the Bay fishing parties are constantly going out. The channels about the islands are the Paradise of fishermen. The boats are the most convenient and comfortable in the world, the boatmen the most acconnnodating. and the pickerel, pike and i2;amev black l)ass and rock bass, and nniscalomie. in the u;reatest abundance. WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA BAY. In 1872 President Grant visited this delightful spot, a guest of R. M. Pullman, of palace car fame, Pullman Island. Tliere was at that time inadi(piate hotel accom- modations, for the tourist as well as the visitor who had i r 34 been drawn to this the most l)eautit"iil natural scenery in the world. Messrs. Cornwall and Walton of Alexandria liay with their usual display of sense and sagacity, as well as business tact for which they have always been commend- ed, oftered to give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man who would erect upcjn it, a tlrst class summer hotel. Mr. (). G. Staples, of Watertown, N. Y., hearing of this offer (^ame, he saw, and how he contiuered you shall know as we proceed with our narrative. Well, he conchided to father the scheme, securing a man with money, a Mr. Nott of .Syracuse, the ground, or rock rather, was broken January 14th, i«S83, and the Thousand Island House was completed and opened July 17th, 1S83, just six months from the day of starting. Rumor says that although their money gave out a little above the first story Staples' indomitable will saw it com})leted and furnished, ready to receive guests, just as soon and as well as if he had been a millionare. During the next two years of the jiartnership of Staples and Nott, everything did not go as smoothly as a marriage bell, but still they went, and in the end Staples had the money and hotel. (1 hope the reader if he knows Staples will not be so unkind as to accuse him of j)arting with all his ex- perience and make the pun that he rook the money and Nott the exj)erience. ) Staples Iv^'.^ght out Nott, and I believe, paid him what was agreed, and he run the hotel until Ajn-il 15th, 1883, when Mr. R. H. Southgate, (the man of many hotels, too numerous to mention here.) bought him out, placed Mr. A. L. Mellen, of the St. James Hotel, Baltimore, as its manager, Mr. Walter Grihhi as room clerk, Mr.' John Lane, cashier, Mr. C. F. Southgate, book- kee])er, and all other departments were filled with competent men ; the steward and cooks the best that money could 35 enerv in •xantlria as well nmiend- e to any :r hotel. f of this ill know lucled to Mr. Nott 1 January ompleted 1 the day ney gave able will 'e nuests. lillionare. aples and iage bell, le money will not 1 his ex- oney and tt, and I the hotel ^ate, (the e.) bought les Hotel, as room ite, book- :ompetent ney could secure; Mr. S. (iodchaud in charge of the tluid depart- ment, and we can say tliat success crowned their efforts for US.S3. The many changes that have been made, and those contemplated, and when com])leted. will make this the mecca of summer resort watering i)laces. the \'enice of America. I desire to say right here that I hope Mr. South- gate will not lose sight of wliat has in the ])ast made the Hay j)opular as a resort. I like to see the standard of visitors raised as well as the prices. I would like it to be the place for fish as wel' as those who love the ])i!^:catorial art. No dust, no dampness, no malaria or hay fever, no moscpiitoes. light, dry air. cool and bracing. 'I'hermometer never over 80 nor behjw 50 in July or August, and one can enjoy what is denied them almost everywhere else, a good nine hours of (^ool refreshing sleep under a blanket. Those troubled with pulmonary com|)laints will tind great relief here. Steamers, steam yachts and sailing vessels abound, everything to animate the scene and inhance the j)leasure of \ isitors is done. Fishing, fishing boats, batliing. etc., as well as fish abounds, and we say here, if you have never been to the Bay come, if you have been, come and see it under the new reign of success, and I know you will l)e pleased. The season of ICS84. the Thousand Island House will be under the management of J. C. Mathews, who for the past seven years has been connected with such hotels as the United States. Saratoga, Tiie Albermarle, New York city, wliicli ought to be all the reference required to assure guests of the Thousand Island House (as the same staff in the officj has been retained,) that they will be well taken care of. 36 A REAL LIVE DUDE was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit for one thing if I could not for having either money or brains, but vvill say he was very attentive to the ladies, and it may be said to his cr^'dit he never tried to cut me out. One fine morning he induced three of the nicest young ladies at the bay to take a boat ride, and for the privilege of their company agreed to do the rowing himself. They had been out upon the water for some time, and he had done the rowing heroically, but getting into the strong current his physical development was being tested to its utmost, when he asked the young ladies "if it would not be better for him to hug the shore." After a pause of a minute the girl- iest girl of the group exclaimed: "'Well, if you cannot find anything better to hug, do for Heaven sake "hug the shore ! " WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. During the summer of 1883 I was at the Thousand Island House, Alexandria Bay, N" Y.. and took note of some of the best catches of fish, which with pleasure I give space here, that my friends may see, and those who may have heard that there is no good fishing at the l)ay. a chance to judge. Let me first sav that anvbodv can catch fish of the following varieties anywhere in the St. Lawrence River : Rock Bass? Black Bass, Perch, Pike. Pickerel and Muscalonge. I have caught, oft' the dock at the bay. in less than two hours, a Black Bass weighing three and one-half pounds and a Pickerel weighing over six pounds. 37 redit for r brains, d it may X. One adies at of their lad been one the rent his it, when itter for the girl- mot find hug the FISH. d Island lie of the .ce here, e heard o judge, bllowing ck Bass> I have hours, a -and a THE BEST CATCHES OF FISH FOR 1 883. Mr. H. A. Redfield, of Hartford, Conn., caught seventy Black Bass, thirty weighing over two and one-half pounds each Mr. IIul])ert R. Clark, of Xew York, (firm of Teft. Weller & Co.). caught the largest Black Bass of the season ; it weighed 5^ lbs. Mr. Clark's \oungest son caught in one day, three filack Bass weiuhinic 10 lbs. Ctid. Shepherd, Fisherman. Mr. Henry Stadler, of Xew York, (firm of Max Stadler & Co.), caught thirty Black Bass over 4^. and several over 2 lbs. Vouxcr McCuE, Fisherman. Judge S. B. Smitli. of \ew York ; Hon. J. Hess, Hon. H. E. Parley and Hon. R. G. McCord caught in one day, Aug. 13, 250 fish ; twenty-two weighed over 2^ lbs. each. Dan. Starixc, Sexkai, cV Billy \\'HrrE, Fishermen. Geor,'-e K. Hulbert. of Cincinnati. O.. caught. .Sei)t. i, in front of tiie Hioiisand Island FI(nise. a Pickerel weighing 7^ lbs. Messrs. Mansfield and Powers caught. Sei)t. i a Musca- longe weighing r^.J ll)s ; Simuel Godchaud, of "'ew York, caught a Pickerel weiglmig 11 i Ib^. Willie R()«;er>. I'"isherman. Mr. Sickel, of Albion. N. W. caught thirt\- IMckerel Au'^ 10, weighing from 7 lo 9 lbs. each. (iEoRtii': HoADLEW Fisherman. F. A. Myeis, of PittsburglL Pa., caii-ht in .jne dav three Black Bass weigliing uver 3 lbs. each, and six over 2 lbs. Chas. iv()(.ERs. Fisherman. Bia rm 38 Mr. Geo. B. Greer caught thirty-two Black Bass, five weighing over 3 lbs. Chari.ev Weller, PMsherman. Chas. Hayes, of Buflalo, N. Y. caught thirty Black Basr and five Pickerel, and a Wail-Eyed PiKe. weigi.\ing 7^ lbs. John Porter, Fisherman. Master Wheelock, (son of Dr. George G. Wheelock, of New York), aged six years, caught three Pickerel, weighing 7, 6^ and 5 lbs. respectively. Sam. Tilden Jackson, Fisherman. Robert Elliott and friend, visitors at Mrs. LaConte's Im- perial Isle., caught sixteen Pickerel and one Muscalonge, weisihin^ 8^ lbs. Grin Lackey, Fisherman. Mr. Samuel Sondheim, of New York, caught thirty-one Black Bass, several weighing over 4 lbs. John Gibson, Fisherman. Steve. Griftin, a fisherman, while trolling for Pickerel, caught a Loon weighing 22 lbs. This is no 7vj-// S^tfry — " Phat Bov." W. F. Baldwin, of New York, traveling for Waterbury Watch Co., caught twenty-seven Black Tiass, and a Pickerel weighing over 11 lbs. Alex. Grhfin, Fisherman. Walter H. Grifiin, Room clerk at the Thousand Island House, caught a Pickerel weighing 16 lbs. within 100 yards of the hotel. Henry Apple, Fisherman. Mrs. Dr. J, L. Perry and Miss Noonhauser, of Saratoga, N. Y., caught thirteen Pickerel, weighing from 3^ to 8 lbs Ans. Leonard, Fishcrm:.in. ^ass, five :rman. ack Basf 7i lbs. Jiman. clock, of vveighing rman. ite's Im- ;calonge, rman. lirty-one rman. Pickerel, SUny — aterbury Pickerel rman. 1 Island DO yards rman. aratoga, to 8 lbs rm:.in. 39 Mr. \\\ H. Clark, of Nt^xv \'urk, caught fortv-four Hlack Bass in five hours, weighing from i to 3^ lbs. each. (.'ID. .Shepherd. Fisherman. A gentleman visitor at Hayden's [.land, caught seven- ty-two Black Bass, weighing 76 lbs., in three hours. ^\ . Rooi, Fisherman. Charles MacEvoy, Leather Manufacturer, of .Ven- York and Newark, N. J.. (>aught tlfty-two Oswego Bass weighin.v 93 ll)s., \\\ SIX hours, [ulv Sth. ' "^ Ohforj) Bkxsox. Fisherman. R. ]''. Patton, of Pittsburgh, Pa., made a remarkable catch winch I lorgot to mention in my notes ; ask him and he will tell his o^vn fish story. 1 have re-iuested Kli Perkms to draw on him for facts; they will apj.ear in the next ed- ition 01 this work. Mr. F. T. Huntoon, of .\ew Wjrk. caught fiftv-one Os- wego Bass weighing 85 lbs. Ohf. {5f,\sox. Fisherman. Mr l\jward Porter, of Rochester, X. Y.. caught a I'ick- erel ^vc;L:nmg i7ilbs. Mr. j. n.;prv' Harper, of Harper Bros., caught in one da- in July, twenty-seven Dluck Bass weighing 61 lbs.; two weighed 9.] lbs. \\'vs. Willlam Meeker, Fisherman. Fred. Smithe and Clinton Hastings, of Clinton, Oneida Co., N. Y., caught one hundred and twenty-three Black Bass In four hours, weighing from i to 3 lbs. eacli. Wn;[.iAM T. McCuE, Fisherman. Mr. J. W. Case, owner of Boat-Livery, who is the best boat l)uilder at the Bay, also dealer in fishing tackle, rented a boat to Mr. Saunders, wlio caught thu'teen Pickerel in two 41 Five Black erman. irty Black lerman. a Pickerel rk, caught catch, 60 herman. rk, caught herman, :el, of New ndred and Ih erman. llack Bass, herman. I, caught a ^ghed over 1 erman. |ii, Oneida ree Black lerman. the best le, rented :el in two hours. Mr. Case, on a bet, took a man in a boat for one hour and caught seven Pickerel, the largest weighing 4 lbs. He won the bet. Mr. H. Merrell, of Montreal, (firm of H. l\: H. Merrell) caught at Hamilton's Island, 84 pounds of I^ike and Pick- erel and four Bass weighing 4 lbs. each ; fourteen Pike weighed from 4 to 8 lbs. each. Mr. Merrell is considered one of the best fishermen on the St. Lawrence. (ien. Anson McCook, M. C, of New York, caught fifteen Black Bass in three hours. Henry Hunt, Fisherman. Little Julian Madan, of New York, caught a Pickerel weighing 4^ lbs. I am really sorry to cut this subject short, but space I)revents my giving any more names and catches. The largest fish caught during the season, was a Muscalonge, weighing 53 lbs., caught at an island op])Osite Gananoque ; the largest caught at the Bay, i8>^- lbs. ; the largest Pike, 7^ lbs. ; the largest Pickerel. 18 lbs., and the largest Bass. 5^ lbs. Resj)ectfully yours. E. F. BABBACrE. SOME OF THE OWNERS. St. John's, five acres. Judge C. Donohue. New York. ALmhattan, five acres. Judge Spencer, and J. L. Has- brouck. New York. Deshler. seven acres, \V. G. Deshler, Columbus, O. Deer, twenty-five acres, S. Miller, Rochester, N. Y. Fairy Land, seven acres, C. H. and W. B. Hayden, Cohunbus, ( ). IMatt. two acres, Sisson & Fox, Alexandria Bay. Brown's, ten acres, S. G. Pope, Alexandria Bay. 42 Pleasant, three acres. Sisson ranhattan island is now owned by Judge J. C. Spencer, of New York. Between Deshler and Manhattan, looking backward, is P^airyland. owned by C. H. and W. B. Hayden, of Colum- bus, O. This is really one of the finest islands in the river. At a vast ex|)ense art has trium])hed over nature, trans- forming a barren into the loveliest of green lawns. Next on the left is I )eer island ; then SUMMERLAND. Summerland, one of the most beautiful of the '' Thou- sand Islands " is located mid-way between the north and south channels of the St. Lawrence, about three miles be- low Alexandria Bay, having an area of fourteen acres and is the largest of the "' Summerland group," w^hich includes "Idlewiki," -^ Sport." "Ida" and '"Arcadia." The island is covered with a dense forest furnishinu; an abundance of shade and will be said to have the Unest groves on the river. At the extreme northerly and southerly ends of the island there are extensive sandy beaches, a great rarity in this locality, which are used by the " Summerlanders " for bathing purj^oses. The island is traversed from end to end bv a most delightful natural avenue, denselv shaded and lined on either side with a thick undergrowth of wild tiowers and ferns. The island is owned by the Summerland 47 f New mered a very : least, ) cele- led by ard. is Jolum- e river. , trans- Jext on rhou- th and lies l)e- es and n dudes I islaiul lince of on the , of the arity in rs "' for to end ed and of wild nerland .Vsfiociation. a corporation ori^anized under and l)y \ irtue v)f the laws of the State of \e\v York, for social and yachting purposes, and conii)osed of the following stock- holders : Rev, Asa Saxe. 1). I).. Isaiah F. P'orce. James Sargent. Sears K. Brace. Kmory B. Chase, Henry C. W'is- ner. Lewis P. Ross. Francis M. Mcl'^arlin. Chas. W. (rray. George H. Newell. Henry O. Hall, Josej^h A. Stull and Frank \V. Havvley of Rochester, N. V. ; Re\-. Richmond Fisk, I). D.. Alfred Underhill and Horace Bronson, of Svracuse. N. Y. Rev. Almond Ounnison, 1). I)., and Frank Sperry. of Brooklyn. N. V. 'i'he association have erected upon the island a large and commodious '• Club House " wherein the members of the association and their families take their meals. \fter setting apart a large grove at each end of the island for general use, the balance of the island was divided into lots, one of which was assigned to each stockholder. Upon these lots so assigned, the nieml)ers of the association have erected cottages for the sole use of their own families. In addition to the Club House the association has erected numerous pavilions and summer houses in different ])arts of the island, together with a large ice-house and has construct- ed several docks of sufficient size to jjermit of the 1, rul- ing of large steamers. The association owns a large steam vacht which is used in runniuL' to and from Alexandria iiav and for fishing and pleasure excursions. Each member of the association ])rovides himself with sailing and row l)oats. The Club house is o))ened for the rece])tion of the meml^ers of the association and their im- f 48 mediate tainilies (w/y. on the first day of J Lily of each year, and remains oi)cn until about September 15th, during all of which time the yacht is at the service of the party. Between Deer island and Summerland is Cedar; back of Cedar is Sport, owned by H. A. I 'acker, who died in 1884. 'Hie island, however, will be occupied this year by H. C. Wilbur, (r. H. I.inderman, C. B. Newton, and other friends. Anthony i)oint is on the right. This place is the resort of K. and T. H. Anthony, the extensive dealers in photogra- phic goods in N'ew York. APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF THE ENGLISH. This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, but I am sorry to say in free America, better known as the U. S. I cannot find any fault with the average Canadian who is as it were governed by Queen Victoria, and must have some reverence for royalty in the aping of their manners and customs, but in this land where we have an abundance of Queens, Princes, Lords and Sovereigns, w'ho are not fiattered by titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are royal born and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that at home I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or " Phat Boy," ( 1 spell it with 'Ph' because it does not sound so greasy.) but the moment I leave home, say for a trip through the South, I am called Captain for the first few hundred miles, then a httle way on it becomes Colonel, and when I get to Georgia it is Major, in South Carolina it is Judge or General, until I get to Florida, and 1 have heard them say tliere " great God is that you ?" but we diverge returning to the aping of the manners of Princess Louise. I wish 49 :h year, ring all y- hack of ill 1884. y H. C. friends, resort of hotogra- C, OF iiada, but theU. S. 11 who is lUSt have manners undance are not , all are me that hat Boy," greasy, ) ough the ed miles. h I get to Judge or them say returning; ie. I wish to say right iiere that 1 firmly bcH<.ne it ch'd the Canachan people a great amount of good, but fail to see where the })eoi)le of the United States could be benefitted. 1 was told that at IviuLrston the I'rincess asked for her strawberries in a i,x with the hulls on, and when placed before her she took them up by the stem between the thumb and finger and bit the berry off and ])laced the hull on the plate. .Vow every- body does the same ; previous to her visit they used to hull and wash them before j)lacing them on the table. The same with grapes, they used to wash them in a goblet of water at the table before eating them, now they take the grai)e between the thumb and finger, press it gently to the lips and sc^ueeze gently, and juice as well as insides are soon on the way to digestion, and the skm laid away n the plate as the Princess did. Asparagus, it was almost gainful for me to see Canadians eat it in as many ways as there were |)eople at the table, in fact no two ate it alike mitil after the Princess came; now everybody takes it by the hard green end, between thumb and finger, and putting it into the mouth closes the teeth down upon it and draws it gently from the mouth, leaving all that is digestible within and the remainder is laid on the i)late. The Princess once took a walk through her kitchen at Rideau Hall. Ottawa, took the vegetable cook to task for washing fresh picked peas from the vine that had just been shelled, saying, it was nonsense, if your hands were clean, to wash a virgin pea. YACHTING. Water— and as one enthusiastic writer puts it — such water I — is abundant, and to enjoy this water in a pensive or poetic mood, the steam yacht should be brought into requisition. Private yachts are numerous and elegant, and 'I m 50 it is to the credit of the owners that they are not niggardlv in exhibiting a spirit of generosity and courtesy. The) are constantly inviting individuals and ])arties to enjoy tlic exhilerating excitement of the shooting around the beauti- ful si)ots. And if you. dear tourist, have no friend that invites you to sh-ire a cushioned seat in his graceful fairy- like craft, then go to Capt. E. W. \'isger. on the Islatui Wanderer. He will take vou on an excursion among the islands that vou will ^dadlv recall as a cheerful reminiscence of your St. Lawrence excursion, for the oi)portunity will have l)eeii oftered t;j brinij; within the raniie of vour vision enchanting scenes that Den is not adecpiate to describe, but l)y purchasing one (^f the " Phat Boys" Birdseye Majjs of the St. Lawrence, you will be the possessor of the only cor- rect map of the St. Lawrence and guide to the river. Still continuiuii our course, lookinsi to the ri^ht. is the cottage of Mrs. Clark, of Watertown. Next, Goose bay is the island owned l)y Dr. Carleton, near which is the Three Sisters Islarid ; before the j'hree Sister's is Hume's Island, and another was pnrcliased b}' Judge Donahue, of New York, and se\enty-tive thousand dollars Si)eut tVicreon, Next on the left is Winske}- Island, and on the right o])])o- site are a number of large and small islands, the names (u' which we will not weary the tourist's brain with. Goose bav is realh- beautiful, if its name is slicjhtlv homeh. It is studded with islands, and fishing abounds It was here that Mr. Hub Clark, of New York, in one day caught some :;oo iiounds of black bass, ramiini^ in weight from \\ pounds to 6.V pounds. On the right is Lyon"^ dock and Meeker's island. Next on the left is Three Sis- ters light; in the tlistance is Lone Star or Dark Island: Island No. i. it is called In- some. After passing on the le 't nigii;ardlv .y. The} enjoy tlie he beauri- lend thai :eful fairy - he Islauil ,mong the niuiscence tiinity will :our vision scribe, but s Ma])s of e only cor- ver. io;ht. is the ioose bay lich is the is HuuK^'s nahue. of It thcreoii. ight op|i(>- names oi is sliirhtlv abound^. In one day in weiglit is Lyon'^ iThree Sis- iv Island : Ion the kit is a small cluster of island shoals. On the right is Chip- pewa l)ay. This is a superb sheet of water, where the fishing is a marked feature. U is a favorite resort of Ogdensburg i)eople, who occui)y the contiguous islands. All around the shore are cam])s, cottages, etc., and make an animated scene for the touri.st. Three miles from Chip- pewa l)ay on the left is Crossover light ; thence three miles to Cole's lif^iit on the left, where we enter the Canadian channel. Xine miles in the distance is Brockville. On the right opposite Cole's light is Oak i)oint. Four miles below is Fisher's landing, a very jjopular place for picnics, etc. On the left a i»roniinent bluff. On the right for six miles the islands come thick and fast ; huge rocks rise fron. the water's surface, with very little vegetation or foliage, and the boat makes her way rapidly among them, winding around like a snake, heading for all the points of the com- pass, freipiently getting herself into coves and bays that a))- parently have no outlet, but always finding a channel, antl sailing triumphantly out into the Inroad waters :.gain. On the left three miles this side of Brock\'lle, is the wreck of a schooner, the S. M. Cook, laden with iron ore. She was sailing up ; die wind subsidetl. causing her to drift u])on the ro(^ks. and remained ; also St. Lawrence park, used for pleasure and |)icnic parties, especially by our Catiadian friends of l)rockville. \\'e are now at the village of Brock- ville ; we " take a rest " for route C. In front of Brockville are the last three of the Thousand Islands ; being some distance from the rest it is presumal)le the\ drifted away, and finally ro(jted here. 'I'his, however, was "Tong bcfv) de wah I " n^-H 52 Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small, lively American village, of about 1,000 inhabitants, a station on the TJtica and Black River R. R. ; connects with Brockville by two steam ferries. all, lively itation on 3rockville :>6 R OUTE c. Our object being to make this little book a complete Guide to the Thousand Islands, so that tourists from any section, no matter where he strikes, will find it intelligible to learn his location. We have therefore divided the ex- planation into three routes. First, we took our friends from New York to Niagara Falls through Toronto, Kingston, and the Canada channel of the St. Lawrence as far as Brockville. Second, our journey was from Gananoijue, thence down the St. I^awrence through the American channel to Brockville. Third, and this is the route upon which we are now entering, will be from Cape Vincent to Alexandria Bay. CAPE VINCENT, is a pleasant little village in Jellerson county. N. Y., at the junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence river. It is also the terminus of the Rome, A\'aterlo\vn and Ogdensburg Railroad, and connections by steamer are made to Alexan- dria Bay. As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long, or Wolf island, 21 miles in length, and 7 miles in width. The i:'.ext on the right is 54 CARLETON ISLAND. At the ii])per extremity, the land narrows into a rugged promontory, ending in a blutf sixty feet in height. Here lifting their ruined heads aloft, and plainly visible to all passers along the river, stand a number of toppling and half ruined chimneys. These may be seen for miles around. So long have these old sentinels watched over the scenes around them that their history is lost in the misty past. Around them are the remaining ruins of an old fort, supposed by many to be the ruins of old Fort Frontenac. Around its old redoubts and parapets linger antiquated historical legends and traditions enough to fill a \olume and forming an mteresting study. An ancient well, cut in the solid Trenton limestone down to the level of the lake, has been converted by the reckless imaginations of the natives into a receptacle of the golden doubloons which the French soldiers, upon evacuating the old fort, are said to have thrown there, with the brass guns on toj) of them. Upon either side, and immediately in front of the bluff upon which the old fort stands, is a quiet, pretty little bay, which may once have supplied a safe and eas\- anchorage for the vessels that lay under its protecting guns. The fortress is supposed to have been one of importance as a military post at some time, having been built upon an excellent plan and in the most substantial nianner. Num- bers of graves still occupy a field near by, the remains o\ the brave soldiers who once occupied the fort. Th^- scene is of deep interest to the students of history. About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay island the only one on the right between Cape Vincent and Cla\- ton. On the left, two miles before reaching Clayton, is w| o' cl| hil C£ 55 ) a rugged lit. Here ble to all pling and for miles ched over 3St in the -lins of an old Fort ets linger h to fill a 1 ancient • the level as^inations loubloons old fort, IS on to]) front of et, pretty and eas\- ting guns. iportance [Upon an Num- imains oi ll""^^' scene ly island. |nd Cla\ - lyton, is Grindstone island, five miles long. Cross-over channel is where the Canadian line of steamers, leaving Kingston at 5 o'clock in the morning, comes through into the American channel. Bet'ore landing at Clayton is Prospect ])ark and hill, which has been systematically laid out for villas and camping parties, and where tourists can always find a com- fortable stopi)ing place. Although we have been traveling among the islands cjuite early in the morning, we have no- ticed that the people who occu])y the cottages are all up, the ladies sitting on the piazzas reading, generally, and the gentlemen out in small boats fishing. There are two kinds of fishing done here — fishing for fun and fishing for fish. 1 cannot explain the distinction better than to repeat what a gentleman who was traveling with the i)arty, said to me one afternoon. '• We are going to take the ladies out fish- ing to-morrow/' he said, '' to give them a taste of the sj)ort. Then, the next day, we are going out alone to catch some fish." FROM BROCKVILLE TO MONTREAL. Leaviiig Brockville. a magnificent view greets the eye ; islands are not now in view ; the river is a most lieautiful sheet of water running perfectly straight for about sixteen miles with the land on either side in good view, for the river is a little over two miles wide. Three miles from Morristown. on the right, is the camp ground of the Baptist persuasion, mostly from wSt. Lawrence county. Five miles on the let't from Brockville is Maitland. At this ])oint is a prominent object known as the old distillerv. whose proprie- tor is said to have been worth, at one time, a million dol- lars, but whose cu])idity during '• America's unpleasantness " led him into selling "crooked whiskey," or rather dis|)osing 56 of Ivs distillery products in a very " crooked way." With- out giving the details, the facts in brief are : He antagon- ized the Canadian government in the matter of paying revenue, and in his fight for stupid supremacy, he not only lost his distillery, but his fortune, too, and he and his family became reduced to poverty, and none of them re- main around their former home. It is said he first induced his niece to marry the revenue collector of the district, that he might carry on the nefarious business in collusion and without detection, but you see, " The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue stone church, in the graveyard of which rests the remains of the founder of Methodism on this continent, Barbara Heck. One mile below is Prescott. One mile farther, on the left, is McCarthy's new brick brewery. Half a mile beyond is the celebrated Rysdick stock farm, owned by Hon. J. P. Weiser, M. P. Here is owned the celebrated stallion, Rysdick, which cost Mr. Weiser $25,000, It is a farm of about 600 acres, and is unquestionably the finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. The thrift, energy and ability of this gentleman will not be wondered at when it is learned that he is of American l)irth. Next on the left is the celebrated Labatt's brewery and Prescott, with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their grip on the trade of the river, judging from the dilapidated condition of the stores, warehouses, etc., on the wharves. The town, however, is handsomely laid out, has a fine city hall and market, and there are many fine private residences. It is connected with Ottawa, capital of the Dominion, by the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad, distance 54 miles. Here many tourists who desire to visit the capital disembark for 57 " With- antagon- of paying not only and his them re- it induced jtrict, that usion and blue stone ,ins of the ira Heck. a the left, beyond is on. J. P. stallion, a farm of lest stock nergy and when it is he left is with its ip on the ndition of The town, hall and es. It is by the St. Here that purpose. \Ve refer the tourist to Daniel's Hotel as a good stoi)ping place. L. H. J)aniels has taken the hotel, and s])ent $8,000 in improvements; he is too well known to the traveling public to need any praise from me. Ojijio- site is OGDENSBURG, founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749. It now contains about 10,000 ])eople, and of course ranks as a city. It is the terminus of the Rome & Watertown, Utica cS: Black River, and the Ogdensburg and Lake Cham])lain Railroads. It is beautifully laid out, well planted with maple trees, and is called the "Maple City." It has a United States Cus- tom House, post-office, and a new ojjera house, costing $150,000, six fine church edifices, water works, gas works, a fire alarm telegraph and two daily news])apers, and possi- bly other modern improvements. At the lower end of town is tlie big elevator of the Ogdensburg (I^ Lake Champlain Railroad. One mile and a half l)elow Prescolt, on the left, is Wind- mill point; the old windmill has been turned into a light- house. Here, in 1837, the ''Patriots." under \'on Shultz, a Polish exile, established themselves, but from which they were driven with severe loss. We believe this Yon Shultz was subse([uently hung by the Canadian auihorities, and his followers banished, probably to New Jersey. On the left, a little below the light house, is the residence and farm of W. H. McCrannon. the oldest ])ilot on the St. Lawrence river, the man who first took the passjiort of tne Riclielieu line down the Long Sault Rapids, in July. 1847. I am also indel)ted to him for the correctnes of my New Maj) of the St. Lawrence and other info'-nuition of benefit to me ibark for ^^'^ ^^'^ P^^^^^^- ! . 1' 58 TlinM,- niilc:. Ix-low. on the left, is Johnstown Bay. with fohnstovvu -Dot n very irnjj^jrtant trading post — overlook- ing. 'I'liif, pl.'K <; has a custom hf)use otficer, commissioner of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the district ; but these imporiaiil olficials are concentrated in one man, Hon. J. T. Mooney. We turn here to the rigiit. leaving the far-famed Chim- nev island on the left, on which are said to be the ruins of old i'Vench forts, battlements, etc. The only remains we jiavf .- 62 me slightly back, and I subsequently came to the conclusion with •• my friend " of the Oil City Derrick, that a cabba.ue leaf never was more at home than when in the crown of " Uli IV^rkins' hat." After that I had no more use for the ])oem. but determined if I ever met '' Uli " I should call to his mind the circumstance ccMinected with " his little poem." r had not long to wait, for oue day, while in Evansville, In- diana, at the St. George Hotel. I met the gentleman and recalled the circumstance connected with the little verse, and he, with a perfect air of nouchalivice, said that he had never i2:iven it a thought since — dashed it off in ' minute, I told him how remarkable it was that great minds often run in the same channel and related my experience with his gem. He scowled, and turning on his heel said it was indeed a singular word for word resemblance, but changed the subject at once and asked me to his room on the fol- lowing morning, which invitation I cheerfully accepted, doting all the evening upon having a nice time, and swoj)- ping a few gags, etc.. etc., but my hopes were blighted, for the next morning I was informed of his very early departure — gone up to lie to the peo[)le of Rockport, I was told. " Uli " is a great man, and contracts a larger amount o; business upon a very small amount of capital than any pub- lic character I know of. AViien Eli reads this I expect b^^ will load his big gun — not intellectual, but otherwise- come for me. I will therefore give him a pointer ii vance ; there won't anything scare me but a stomach punii Distinguished among Indian names is that of Iroquois Here it names a village, formerly known as Matilda, bu: like all other good Matildas do, she changed her name v Iroquois, in order to preserve the name. The Iroquois In- dians formerly owned this section of the country. One am; ~:i^--' '.> :onclusi()n a cabbage crown of ise for the uld call l(^ tie poern." iisville, In- ieman and ittle verse, lat he had ' minute, linds ot'tcii ience with iakl it was Lit changed on the tol- ' accepted, and swop- iiihted. for departure was told. amount ol ,n any pub- expect he rwise- ter ii ach pun 11 Iroquois, latilda, but r name t< oquois in- One am: a half mile.s bch'jw this viUagc is tiie narrowest ponit ui the St. Lawrence river tVoni Kinirston to the milt". This hroad e\pa)ise of waier we are just passing, and the one we ar- rive at immediately after leaving the [)oint. are \ery shallow, conses. •• One shall chase a thousand and two put ten thousand to tlight. Sing !" Thi was really a strong point, and was fortified on both ^des 01 th e river bv th e opj)osmg parties. 'vom the tact of the successful fortifications by tiie Americans the Rideau canal owes its origin, (bins, and stores or merchandise could not be taken up the river. It was concei\'ed by Col- onel By, of the Faigineer corps, that a new canal would ob- viate the dittici.it V, and all his resources were immediately 64 put into requisition and the canal v/as completed at a cost of $5,ooo,ooc. It extends from Ottawa, formerly By-town, to Kingston, and is still in use. Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. On the left is the entrance to the Morrisburg canal, the second canal in the chain, but is not used bv this line of boats. All tows and sailing vessels have to use the canal. In the distance front is Ra|)id Piatt ; on the right is Ogden's Is- land, the finest wooded island in the St. Lawrence river. Beyond is Waddington, St. Lav»Tence county, N. Y. In front is this rapid we have just named ; it is the second one and is a '' little one for two cents." It has, however, eight feet more descent than the first, but is only a one cent de- sct'itfer rapid. MORRISBURG, After passing the point, Morrisburg comes into view on the left, the prettiest village in the Dominion of Canada. Look at its churches, public buildings, private residences, and hotels, (the St. Lawrence Hall is kept by W. H. Mc- Gannon and Brother, and I can say cheerfully no better hotel in town.) which line the lianks. for we are still in the province of Ontario. At hal(^])ast three o'clock, will enter the ()vo\ince of Quebec. You will have a good chance then to compare the difference between the two provinces. Your especial attention is called to this now, that you may be prepared to scan the change you will not fail to observe. Before reaching Morrisburg is i:)oran's Island, which was rented by Mr. Oz. Doran. of the St. Regis Indians, for one dollar per year, and they come every year, 60 miles to col- lect one dollar. Opi^osite Morrisburg is Dry Island, used for picnics, etc. .-* 6s at a cost By-town. rest. On e second of boats. In the ;den's Is- ice river. [. Y. In :ond one. ^ei*, eight cent de- view on Canada. ;idences. H. Mc- ho better 11 in the ill enter Ince then ovince?. roil ma\' (bserve. ich was for one to col- id, used i One hour from tliis point to the Long Sault Rapids. We speak of this here, for it is about dinner time, and if you are lucky enough to secure a seat at the first table you will lose no point of interest, for it is presumable you will finish within the hour THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. It would not be amiss here to state that the meals were formerly served on the American plan, and to ^iive you but a faint idea of the commotion created by tht^ passengers when there was one more person on board than seats at the table, would require a volume ten times this size to de scribe. Therefore please excuse me if I relate by way of an illustration what an eminent French writer said on the subject : " The waiters, like little poppets, would bob up serenely at any time and place, drop a dish or whatever the hand contained, and was as soon out of sight. This continued for about one hour, while we were seated back against the cabin wall, with just space enough for the waiter to pass between us and the table. \\'hen the signal was given everybody made a rush for the table, and if the scene depicted could only be described humorously or otherwise. I would like to read it." But the writer said it reminded him of the famous j)icture in her Majesty's gallery. '• The Rape of the Sabines." (I have never seen that picture, but l)resame it is that of a beautiful female ])oised as a central figure, and about ten soldiers ready to embrace her on a given signal.) Things have changed, however, and tiiis season the meals will be served on the American plan, run by the Company, who have secured the best stewards, etc., 66 to superintend the service to the end, that everyone may be pleased. The upper saloon will not be used, but what was formerly known as the ladies' cabin will be the dining-room, which gives the whole saloon as a promenade and place of repose and rest for the passengers. I am positive the change will be acceptable. About a mile below Morrisburg, on the right, is Ooose- neck island, so called from its resemblance to the neck of a goose ; the ujjper end is the neck ; the narrative is p. bout niiie miles long. Five miles from Morrisburg to CHRYSLER'S FARM, memorable fo" the battle fought on this ground in the year 1813. The Americans were the attacking party on this oc- casion, having arose early in the morning, crossed the river into the little bay, landed, and immediately went into the contest by attacking the little house. The fight was desper- ate, lasting until eleven o'clock, w^hen the Americans, under General Williams, were repulsed with great slaughter. The house was comp>letely riddled with bullets. It has since been torn down, and the chimney left as a monument t-^ the battle. They retreated in good order, re-crossed the river, and remained, having abandoned the trip to Moiv treal, which they intended. 1 draw this mild, because I am one of •' Clod's people " myself. Next in interest is Farron's point, opposite which is Croyl's Island. Six minutes from here to Long Sault Rapids, wc pass on the left Harrison's landing. 67 may be hat was g-rooni, )lace oi tive the Goose- eck of a IS bout the year n this oc- Ithe river into thi- desper^ s, under Y. The as since Iment to 5sed the lo Moil |se I aiii Croyl':- )ids. \vc LONG SAULT ISLAND. At this point there are really two channels, the American ch.aunel being on the right of Long Sault Island, the rapids lorming the Canadian channel, ami are on the left of the island. The distinguishing feature about tlie American channel is while it is swift in current, it has no rapids worthy of note, and the channel is used for tows, etc., and all the rafts naturally prefer this way, because it would be impossible for them to go down the Long Sault. In the distant front observe the light-house at the head of the Cornwall canal, tw^elve miles in length, that passes around the Long Sault Rapids. The boats are steered from landmarks on shore ; by that small ball you see on the end of the pole, which is the bow- sprit. The target that you see in the distance is used by the pilot to get his position in Long Sault Rapids. These targets will be seen frequently as you progress, and as they all answer the same purpose, this reference to them will suttice. LONG SAULT RAPIDS. Dickinson's Landing on the left was formerly a very im- portant point on this line, as it was the foot of naxigation Iieiore the canal was completed some forty years ago. l'\.\v changes have taken i)lace since, that are apparent to tile eye. The Long Sault is the first one of the first-class rapids, and the third one in line proceeding down the river, and as we set a price on the other two, you can set your own price on this one. A descri[)tion of these rapids has 'f't^ 68 been given from time immemorial ; it does not behoove us to give any graphic or colored description of this scene, althougli we might do so satisfactorily, having seen depicted on the countenances of thousands of j^assengers who ha\e passed this way every thing in nature from the sublime to the ridiculous as well as between the two, and as eacli indi- vidual's feelings differ, no one description would do the sul)- ject justice. One writer said, " it was like sliding down hill on a steamboat." Another said he felt as if he was being nnglued I A third said he felt as if he had taken a large dose of ipecac. Still another as if he was on a ship at sea in a storm. And yet one more was so exhilerated that he imaojined he owned Maud S. and would like to spend his days on the ra])ids. Another party who had ridi- culed the trip a good deal, until the spray began to cover the deck, wetting them to the skin, drenching their store clothes, which, when dried, revealed awkward mistlts, ex- claimed that it was the grandest sight they had ever wit- nessed. It is now the Phat Boy's privilege to relate a few facts — no "taffy." All the boats of this line are built of Bessemer steel or iron, with three and one-half inches of elm riveted close to the iron on the bottom outside to pre- vent accidents if we should strike against a rock. Thi.s |)recaution was found necessary, because the first iron boat that struck a rock became a total wreck. With the protec- tion of elm no injury has resulted from the occasional strik- ing of the boats against the rocks. There is no danger, however, in this rapid, for the water in the shallowest place is thirteen ar.d one-half feet, and we are drawing about seven feet. During our jiassage through all the rapids, we 69 loove us s scene, depicted ho ha^e )lime to a,ch indi- the sub- ig down ■ he was taken a on a ship :hilerated d like tu had ridi- L to co\ er leir store istlts, ex- ever wit- w facts — built of inches ot e to pre- k. This iron boat le protec- )nal strik- o danger. v^est place ng aboiu apids, we -.1 have four men at the whee]. and four men at the tiller aft who assist the men at the wheel. Any accident that should happen to the chain or the wheel, the pilot immediately L,oes to the right hand of the tiller. The Long Sault rapid is nine miles in length ; three miles of boisterous commotion ; six miles of current and shdden, sharp turns. When we first enter the rapid, the steam on board of the boat is slowed down until she cets her position in the rapids, as she draws less water than when under full head of steam. We are then compelled to put on full steam as the boat must go faster than the cur- rent in order to obtain steerage way. Many suppose that no steam is used through the rapids, which is an error. If we were to attempt to go down without any propelling |)o\ver, we would be at the mercy of the current of this stupendous agitation called rapids. One couldn't tell which end of the boat would be first, and it is presumable that this would be anything but pleasant to the passenger. When we first enter this rapid, the finest view is obtained on the right side of the boat. It is expected, however. that the passengers will distribute themselves equally on either side to keep the boat in good trim ; the Ca|)tain gen- erally uses the Phat Boy for this purpose ; when he is not on hoard, the passengers are expected to distribute them st'Ktts. The view, however, soon changes to the left, and when nearing the point the swell and white caps run from seven to eleven feet m heiu;ht. We have already explained the causes of the rapids. N.)W, will any one please explain to "me what is the height of the rocks which create this commotion, and at tlie same time set their price on this rapid. After passing this point w 70 MUTUAL ASSOCIATION $10,000 Held in Trust for the Association by Prov. Government. Incorporated C. S. of Canada, Chap. 7/ and Amernhnenis. DIRECTORS. Premhnt: A. L. DE Martigny, Esq., Casliier Jacques-C'artier Bank. Vice-Presidcntfi : Hon. L. R. Church, Q. C, Commissioner of Crown Lands, Quebec, V. Q. Bi:nj. (tlobensky, Esq., Q. C. L. H. MA8SUE, M. P., President Board of Agriculture for Province of Quebec. John L. Cas?idy, Esq., Wliolesale Merchant. J. McEntvre, Es<[., Mercliant. ]\r. Babcock, Esq , Manufacturer. Dr. W. W. Ogden, Toronto. Arthur (Iaonon, Es(i. John Hopper, Esq. J. J. GUEPIN, Esq., M. D. Hon. Alex. Lacoste, Q. C, M. L. C, Arthur (Ia(;non, John Hopper, . . . . Dr. J. J. GuERiN, Lcijal Advii^cr. Trea.'id of all the Rajjids. o[)posite the rapid is the viUai^e of Cednr on the left and St. Timothy on the right, the Cedar rapid is the finest upon the St. Lawrence River. L. ok at St. Timothv, bear m mnidtiie view you had of Monisburg ; the impression of its beauty and thrift, and no\, ,ou have the comparison. How does the former strike you as against the latter? It is a historic tact, and worthy of note, that no matter what town you arrive at in the province of Quebec, this will l)e a[)i)arent to the eye ; the finest buildings in the ;.Iace wiil be the church, nunnery, school, hospital or priest's residence. Aside tnnu these, the rest are all about alike. Vou (annot tell the palace residence from the blacksmith's shop, or the grocery store from the hotel. The chiu-ih at St. Ttniuth\- ha^ a X 8o seating capacity cf 1.500 ; the population of the village is 600; the church is aUvays full on Sundays, and as Mark T\\'ain exclaimed, *'V1iat large domes these worshippers must have to their pantaloons for 600 to fill a place capa- ble of seating 1.500." But they come from all the coun- try around, being all of one persuasion. An opposition church is so far unknown in these rural p-Uts, hence it ma\ be inferred what the extraordinary power of this old church must be in the lower province, fust before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the Cedar ra|)id. and ])ass a distance of three and one-half miles in the extraordinary short time of seven minutes. By casting N'our eye shoreward, vrhile passing an island on the left, and just before we enter the heaviest part of the rapid, you will discover how fast the boat is going. Looking to the right, you will see Hell's hole, and the greatest commotion in thc river from Kinijfston to the (lulf. Leaving Cedar rapid, which is tlie most picturesque and beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and one-half miles further along, and passing Bockey Hayes' shoal, which is a peculiar formation in the bed of the river, making nav'ga- tion somewhat dangerous. In illustration : one day lIu' steamer Corsican suddenly lurched to the left, and evidentl\ struck a rock, whereupon the captain said to the pilot. '• Edward, you are a little too far over to the left." Before he could complete the sentence, the boat lurched to the right and struck another rock ; then the pilot replied, " yes. a)id a httle too far over to the right side." It is plain that the channel about here is at least precarious. Th*^ govern- ment engineers, however, are now at work removing these dangerous obstructions. The Napoleon hats you see in 8i tlie distance, on poles caboiit ten feet In'^rh, are the mark in tilt which enable the pilot to obtain his true bearinu's throii about to e.Kclaim as my friend A. Ward did when he was surrounded by 20 of PJrigham Young's wivcs. " 1 hoj)e your intentions are honorable." However, throUj^h the assist- ance of some friends, I jn-ocured life preservers tor them and was released from my somewhat precarious position. In the space of an hour nn^st <'f the passengers were lande-.l Ity the aid of the ship's boats and batieaus from the shore, and i)roceeded by .ail to Moiareai. wiiere they arrived the same eveninu-. I remained on board all nigiu until a sons. They row him to the steamers, he comes on board, and the l)oys row home again. He remains on board til' the next morning, takes the tirst train for Lachine, where he is met by the boys, who take him home in the row-boai. The Indian pilot's name is St. Jean Baptiste De Lisle ; h]> Indian name. Ta-ya-ka, meaning in the V. S. language tha; •• he will cross the river," but does not ; he goes down tlu rapids. He has a family of six children, three boys and three girls. The girls are unmarried. 1 state this for tin benefit of the young men on board, as the Indian pilot s: v> he wants a " heap Yankee" for his girls. I am engaged t<. my Mary Jane and they can't have me. 8:; illagc ley re- al! ac- lich is will is t\v(> oard. ird till where -boat. h\> tha; s and )r the It s; _v ^ ed {'■ The Indian ])ilot being on board, a description of Caugh- nawaga would not be amiss. xXotC'the line of palatial resi- dences along the bank beyond the church, the windows and doors kicked out to give them light and air. 'J'he palace gar lens in the front part of the back end of the house. The laundry of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the fence ; it IS not wash day to-day as you can })erceive. 'i he bath- house is the whole water-front, but it is seldom used. The water-works is that barrel on shore. That fair damsel, waving her lilly white hand, is Mary Jane, my best girl. She comes out every day to welcome me, as she thinks I am on hoard. V'ou can get her eye and have a flirtation, the same as I have had for years, and not make me jealous. That !arij;e brick structure is the centennial buildinii, built durimz; llie centennial year by the celebrated Indian Chief. White Kicker. I think they use him to kick the windows and doors out of the palatial residences previously spoken of The finest crops raised in this section of the country are raised iust below Caughnawaga. Thev raise them with a derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, and of no use until It is. This notable quarry is where most of the stone comes from for the construction of the locks in the ntw Lachine canal. The entrance of which is at Lachine. the village just passed at the foot of the lake on the left. THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE, at the foot of the lake on the left, is a favorite resort for Montrealers in summer. The inhabitants number abou j.ooo. but it is frequently augmented in the season to 9.000 nr 10,000. Note the larsie buildings, which are the church. 86 Villa de Marie Convent, the School and University for the education of priests. Caughnawaga, signifying "praying Indian" (my friend Ben Butler says they spell it with an e), is well laid out for an Indian village, with a ]iopulation of 900, all Indians ; no whites can live here. Our Indian pilot being on board, we re-enter the river, and in a few minutes enter the Lachine rapids. Before reaching the rapids, the tourist can see the aqueduct that supplies the city of ^[ontreal with water. THE LACHINE RAPIDS differ from all the rest, it is simply an intricate channel through rock. Take your i)osition upon either side of the boat and you will know when we come to the most im- portant point, as the boat will be pointed direct for a little island, which is nothing more nor less than a few loads of dirt upon a huge ledge of rock. Keep your eye upon the bow of the boat and you will be led to exclaim, why are we going to strike the island, and if you are a betting person or a truthful one you would almost swear we could not helj) but strike, but when within less than ten feet we make a very sudden turn to the riglit, vrith a grand pitch or lurch in which you will think the boat drops ten feet. We pass alongside of a ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see which you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; at the end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect minature Niagara ; a little water-fall for a cent. Do not allow the lurching of the boat from side to side, to cause you any uneasiness as there is no danger, because «7 little .ds of n the re we on or help ike a :h in pass o see )oat ; at lire the ause a use a side-wheel boat has guards on ihe sides from four to ten feet, projecting over on each side from the luill, 60 or 90 feet long, so when that Hat surface strikes die water by lurching tiat is as far as she can go. therefore will always righten herself immediately. This is the last rai)id built on the St. Lawrence, you can have it the best one if you like and I will not quarrel witli you for it. ail 1 ask you to do is to stop at the hotels who advertise in my i)ook and tell them I was the cause, and if they do not treat you well I will proceed to sit down upon them,antl the\' will never have occasion to treat any one else badly. Passing the foot of the rapids a first view of Montreal on tlie left, and on the right is the village of La Prairie. The first Mountain on the left is Mount Bruno ; second, Belleisle • the third, St. Pie. The next, and last sensation on the trip is passing under Victoria Bridge. VICTORIA BRIDGE, the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world, was built by Mr. Stepenson, in 1S60, for the (rrand Trunk Railroad, bv which it is owned and controlled. It is a mile and three- quarters of iron, two miles and a t[uarterwith its approaches; from shore. It is wholly of iron, top, bottom and sides — an iron tunnel, or box, as it were. There are twenty-iour abutments, built wedge shaped (to crush the immense ice fields that pass through this section, which, previous to the building of the bridge, did immense damage to Montreal during the spring freshets. There is no such thing as fresh- ets on the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa fiowing in some miles above, causing such disasters) ui)on which rest the sections of iron. These spans are from 250 to 360 feet long eacii, !«#'> 88 FAMOUS FOR ONE-THIRD OF A CENTURY. THE ST. LAffREiCE HALL, mo]s^ti^i:al. Is 80 arranged that rooms used for guests are only oue flight above the GRAND OLD rAKLOES, which are just one flight of stairs from St. James street. This item of rooms below the clouds, with plenty of light and air. is worthy of attention. The St. Lawrence Hall occupies a frontage on St. James street 1.50 feet, on St, Francois Xavier street 140 feet, on Craig street ISO feet, and on St. George street 110 feet, in the very heart of the city, opposite the new Post Oftice. Thus from two to five dollars is saved from Lack hire alone. The only first-class hotel located within one mile of the post office and all the public buildings. It-- table une(iualled by any in the ])ominiou Satisfaction guaranteed to everv patron. No ostentations display, but all the solid comforts of a home. Only one block from the French Cathedral. Two blocks from Victoria Square. Only Two blocks from the Theatre lioyal. Within two Ijloeks of all the business houses and dry goods palaoes. The nearest first-class hotel to the depots and steam boat land- ings. Every place worthy of note to the tourist is within fifteen minutes walk of the St. Lawrence Hall, except those you see in your Park Mountain Drive. This hotel was the home of all royal and notable personages who visited Montreal for thirty years. It has all the modern improvements, Elevator, Gas and Electric Lights, Hot and Cold Water, Electric Bells. Ilooms En-Suite, with Bath and Closets on every floor. Spacious, clean and well ventilated rooms. The best beds of any hotel in the city. The prices are graduated. All under the personal supervision of MR. HENRY HOGAN. Ill >9 ind the centre span is about 60 feet hi> 90 island you see tront on the right, is St. Helen's Isle, used by the citizens of Montreal for pleasure, picnic parties, etc. A ferry plys between the city and island every half hour, from morning until 7 p. m. On Sunday from 3,000 10 20- 000 persons visit the island, mostly P>ench Canadians, three-Hfths of whom comprise the population of ivlontreal. In the distant front on the left is the oldest church in Mon- treal ; to the left of that, the largest building with the dome, is the Bonseccour Market and old City Hall. The new City Hall is that large building in the rear with the .''omein the centre and four columns one on each corner. Across the road to the left, that long building is the Court House. At the head of Jacc[ues Cartier Square is a magnificent col- umn erected to the memory of Lord Nelson. At the fcjoi of the square lies a steamer of the Richlieu and Ontario Navigation Company. There are two steamers on this line, notably, the Moi/frca/ and Quebec. This company own twenty-one side-wheel boats. The Quebec line has the largest boats that lloat the St. Lawrence River ; they will comi)are fa\oral)ly with the boats of the Sound or the Hud- son River — triple-decked palace boats, built of BessennM- steel ; one has a capacity of 360 state rooms — the other 280. The distance to Quebec is 180 miles, and the fare on this line only $2.50— the chea])est on the contment. Be- yond, on the left, the two massive towers you see belong to the iM-ench church of Notre Dame. It is not a Cathedral, but simi)ly a parish church. (The Cathedral is on Domin- ion Square, in ])rocess of erection, and when complete, will be one-half the size of St. Peters, at Rome). It is the larg est on the continent, and has contained within its wall, front ])orch and stairways, on the 24th of June last (St. John's 91 dr."), two thousand souls. Beyond is I he Custom House, with the clock in the tower, and still further up the examin- iiiLT houses of the Custom House, as well as the office, (locks and steamers of the Allen line. The first stop is at Quebec boat ; passengers for Montreal remain on deck, as this line is compelled to enter the first lock in the Lachine canal ; the gates close and the water is allowed to enter, which raises the boat to the level of the lock when the pas- sengers are allowed to depart. Montreal is the commercial metropolis of the dominion, with a population of 150,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. The docks, piers, wharfs, etc., of Montreal, are the finest on the conti- nent. It is the second city of commercial importance — New York being first. Six steamship companies leave here weekly for Europe during the summer season and a large amount of business must of a necessity be done, as its channel is closed during five months of the winter. The water front is all lighted with the electric light, so that work is carried on during the summer months night and day. Having selected your hotel and arrived at the same, our next duty will be to see the sights of MONTREAL. It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean vessels, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the Island of Montreal, which lies between the two great rivers of the -North, the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. The Island is about thirty-two miles in length, and at its widest some ten in breadth ; it is so fertile as to be called the garden of the Trovince. The surface of the island is level, with the ex- (cption of the eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 jfr 92 Delawar Li DSON C. Co •n -RJi^XJ^TlOJ^TD. 11 SARATOGA LINE. Twenty-Eight Miles the Shortest Route between Montreal and New York. The Only Line to Saratoga, Lake George, and Lake Champlain. The Most Direct Route to Troy, Albany, New York, Philadelphia, and All Points South and East. Passpii^'ds by this Route, during the Summei" Season, may exchaii;:i' theii' tickfts t'oi- timse reading; •• Throuj^h I^ake Cliailiplailt and I^aUe Cieorjfe, via the (."luimplain TransiKU-tatioii Cu.t;h Mail anil Express for New York carried over thib hm>' OiiriiiK the Season of Navigation, elose connet'tion made at Troy aiifrtce. 14;5 St. JaiiH's Street, Montreal, D. M. KENDRICK, CHARLES C. McFALL, Fsaa. A; /^ A <^ .:l A 4 , Agent, Llon'irr:; 93 feet above the river level. Mount Royal gives the name to the city which lies at its base. The settlement o. the town was originally determined by the first explorer, Ja( ques Cartier, in 1535, at which time an Indian village. Hoche- la.;a, occupied the spot. The permanent founding of the place, however, did not occur till 1642. and in one hundred years of growth thereafter it gathered a population of 4.000. li was under French rule until 1760. when it passed into the hands of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in Mon- treal with great violence, carrying off 1.843 inhabitants in a i)opulation of but 30.000. In April, 1849. ^ political mob burnt the Parliament buildings, which were erected on MrCrill street, and the seat of Government was, in conse vjuence, transferred to Quebec, thence to Toronto, and finally to Ottawa, where it remains. In July. 1852, a t!e- >tnictive fire laid waste a large ])ortion of the city, burning 1 [Q houses, and consuming property valued at $1,400,000. Notwithstanding these reverses the city recovered, and to- day numbers a population of 150.000. Years of industry and enterprise have produced growth and improvement in Montreal, such as but few American cities can boast of, .\\\d perhaps but one — Chicago — has exceeded. At the beginning of the ]jresent century vessels of more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, and its foreiirn trade u:is carried on by brigs and barges. Now ocean steam- ships of over 4.000 tons, the tioating palaces of the Riche- lieu and Ontario Navigation Comi)any. and ships of from 700 to 4,000 tons from all parts of the world, occupy the wharves of the harbor, which are not equaled on this < on- linent in point of substantial construction, convenience anil cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near tlie river. Ill 94 li;is narrow, inconiiiiodicus streets; but the new growth of llu- /\\\ but such French as was spoken by tiie l>olite and educatetl in I'rance. when the emigrants wlin fust settled C\inada. left the shores of their mother-land. The naming of many of the streets of Montreal afur saints ami hi»ly things leminds one that its founders were not exiles nor adventurers, but enthusiastic missionaries. 95 PLACES OF INTEREST. The Post Office is built on St. James street, the < hief thoroughfare of this city, oi)posite the new St. I.auiviue Hall. The reason I use the word new nKu he asked. W ell the hotel has been newly re-fitted. the corner buiKhnu purchased, one hundred elegant and coniniodious rooms added, with baths and closets, electric bells and elevators, etc., etc. The old proi)rietor, Ur. Henry Ilooan. pro- nounced by connoisseurs to be the best landlord in the Dominion, has assumed the proiirietorshij) and has associ- ated with him as manager Mr. Samuel Montgomery the best choice that could be made, as he is an .American tiom the Pacific slope, where they know how to keep a hotel. 1 therefore cheerfully recommend you to stop at the new St. Lawrence Hall during your stay in Montreal. Start- ing from there, it being the centre, every point of interest is within fifteen minutes' walk of this hotel. The first huilding to the left is the new Post Office, recently finished, with a richly decorated exterior, and every internal im- ]»rovement which modern ingenuity has devised. .Adjoin- ing it is the Bank of Montreal, in the Corinthian stvle of architecture, with a sculpture on the pediment depicting native Indians, a sailor and settler with the emblems of the arts and trade. The corpoiation occupying this noble huilding is the richest one of the kind in America, it has branches in every town of importance in the Dominion, and has offices in New York, Chicago and Pondon. it issues letters of credit on all parts of the world, its cajtital and reserve fund amount to $18,000,000. .Adjoining the 15ank of Montreal is the Canada i'acific Pailroad office, a simple P! 96 solid structure in the Doric style. Other banks having their offices on Place d' Amies are the Jacques Cariier. Ontario. Quebec and National Banks. On the south sidr of the s(iaare, the great Parish Church of Notre Danif looms up. The dimensions of this vast Norman edifice arc 225 feet in length, and is 134 feet in width. Its towers arc 220 feet high ; the western one contains the largest ])ell in America, '• Gros Bourdon," in weight 29,400 pounds. The seating ca])acity of the church is 10,000. It has recently been decorated in deep colors and gold, after the manner of the St. Ciiapelle at Paris. Suspended over the western gallery, and near the grand altar, is an immense wooden crucifix. This was brought from France two centuries ago. and was first set up in the church built on the ground now Place d' Amies. Adjoining Notre Dame is the veneral)le Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gateway, courtyard and clock. The gentlemen of this seminary originally held val uable rights affecting the entire island of Montreal ; miK h of the land yet remains in their hands. With the wealth thus brought to their coffers they have liberally establishcHl and conducted many institutions of charity and education scattered throughout the city. We are now on Not 10 Dame street, the chief retail street in Montreal. Turning eastward a few feet from Notre Dame church, on the same side of the street, you arrive at 1682 and 1684, where is lo cated the finest dry goods palace in the city, Messrs. H. \- H. Merrill's establishment, who invite you to call and in- spect their goods. Adjoining is R. Sharpley & Sons'. A little above, on the left, is 167 1, J. & E. McEntyre, nm chant tailors. They make all my clothes, therefore, if t- can fit me furth'.ir comments are unnecessary. A little alx :ni' )( >\ c 97 havinu Carvier. uth side ; Dame lifice are wers art." t l^ell in Is. 'Die recently manner 2 western ; wooden LU-ies ago. )und now venerable tyard and held val al ; mu( h he wealth stabhslunl education on Sowc Turniiv^ ,1 the same diere is K» issrs. H. '.V all and lU- Sons'. A ntvre, niei 'ore, it" iiH"> little above is Lanthier & Co., and just be\ond is the old reliable estab- lishment of T. Mussen, dry goods, fancy goods, etc., estab- lished in 1827, where we cheerfully recommend you to call and inspect goods. Let us go on the left hand and we shall soon arrive at the Court House, a fine Grecian building, of simple and massive appearance. A few steps further on the right brings us to Nelson's monument, setting forth in bas-relief the various victories which the great naval hero won without the loss of a single British ship. This monu- ment is in Jacques Cartier Square, at the foot of which is the wharf of the Quebec steamers. Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the mon- ument, we find opposite to each other two buildings which form a sharp contrast. The one on the left is the new City Hall, a lofty and ornate specimen of French archi- tecture ; facing it is the " old chateau," a structure proba- bly thought very fine a century ago, when Benjamin Frank- lin set up in it the first printing press ever used in the city. Now the old place is a Normal School, and the discoveries of the illustrious American are explained there, and let us hope his witty sayings repeated and acted upon. We can now take our way to the river side, and a block from Jac- ([ues Cartier Square shall find Bonsecours Market, a vast substantial Doric structure. Here, if it be market day, we may see a little of the French Canadian peasantry, clad in their home-spun, and bargaining about their fowls, or eggs or butter with many queer words and phrases now almost forgotten in the Normandy whence they were first brought. Next to the market is Bonsecours Church, a rough-cast building with a high-pitched roof, and with a breadth of a few feet adjoining it, occupied by cobblers and cake shops. .s !' ! This church is the oldest Roman CiitlioHc one in liie city ; its entrance is at the farther side ; rarely is it unoccupied by some \vorshii»i»ers from the adjacent market, who briiii; in. without ceremony, their l)askets and bundles. Sus- l)ended over the altar is a model of a shi}) in bright tin. in which usually burning tapers are placed. Returning, on the water-front, we note the ships and steamers from Liv- er])Ool, Olasgow, J.ondon, Havre, Rotterdam and other ports : and on the right successively pass the Custom House, a triangular buihHng, with a clock tower ; the office of the Allan Line, also having a clock ; rnd the tine build- ing of the Harbor Commissioners. Next to it is a curious looking pile, with external hoist-ways from top to bottom, this is the Customs l^xamining AVarehouse. Before we leave this vicinity, we shall glance backward at the street from Allan's office to the Custom House. Taking a short journey, still upon the river-front, we come to the great works of stone masonry, which are to give to Montreal an enlarged canal to Lachine, so that ves sels of much greater tonnage than the ones at present useel may be employed in the grain trade. This enterj)rise is one of a series of canal improvements by which Canada strives to retain and increase its business as a highway for the shii)ment of western produce to the sea-board. Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running up from the city, McGill, and mark the fine warehouses that adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, on the right is the dry goods house of I). C. Laidlaw. A little above, on the left, John Murphy &: Co., and the great S. Carsley, who occupies the six or seven stores in succession, which you are invited to insi)ect, and I am positive you will be a^. 99 iavoral)le impressed as I was. Retracing our stci)s hac k to McGill street, we turn to the ri.irht, and inniiediatcly in front, just one block is Victoria S(|uare, \vhi(^h contains a statue of the Queen, by Marshall Wood. Corner St. janies street opposite, on the left is the Albert BuildinLis. Turn- ing to the right we enter St. James street, the first building of note, on the right is the Ottawa Buildings— in which W. McDunnough, Lace Store, is located opposite, on the left is J. J. Milloy, the Tailor and Savage c\: Lyman the Jewelers. A little above on the left is T. J. Dawson's, tlie Ladies wStore, "the Mecca of the Ladies of the Party," a little further on the right is (i. W. Clark and a little above is 1 )rysdale & Co. On our way to the Post Office from whence we started, we come on the right, at the corner of St. Peter street, to the Mechanics* Listitute. This Iniild- ing contains a good library, the admission fee to which is only nominal ; and a very good reading-room, having on its tables the principal dailies of America, the London Times, the (ilasgow Herald, the Dublin Warder, the Edinburgh Scotsman, and all the weeklies, monthlies. and quarterlies of both England and the United States. Strangers can have free access to this reading-room, for the period of two weeks, by applying to Mr. Hogan, the pro- l)rietor of the new St. Lawrence Hall. Opposite to the Mechanics' Institute is the Merchants' bank, built in modern Italian style, with polished granite columns at the entrance ; the interior of this bank should be seen ; the main office is carried up two stories in height, and is beautifully frescoed. Diagonally across the street is Molson's Bank, also of Italian design, and richly lOO decorated. At 219 St. James street, is Charles Alexan- der's. We are now nearly at the hotel again, where we may conclude for the i)resent our inspection of the city. Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave behind us the business streets, and take our way to the upper part of Montreal. Our suggestion is, take St. James street to the first crossing on the right as you leave the hotel, St. Peter street. After two blocks this street changes its nan^^ to Bleury street. When if you find you are foot Svj.e you can turn to the left, to the end of the block on Craig street where is located the celebrated Surgeon Chiropodist, Prof. Harris, who will attend to any trouble of the feet, that will be sure to make your walk a pleasant one, provided you are like me, sulTering from corns, bunions or ingrowing nails. At No. 17 we may enter Notman's studio, a large hand- some building entirely devoted to photographic art. Here we may spend half an hour very pleasantly in looking over views of Canadian scenery, and portraits taken singly, or skillfully grouped, representing the sports and pastimes of our winter. The chief of these pictures is that which shows a carnival held at the Victoria Skating Rink, seven years ago, when H. R. H, j. ince Arthur was present. This photographic marvel, with others now surrounding it on the walls of Mr. Notman, attracted great attention and admiration at the Centennial Exhibition. Mr. Notman was photographer to the Exhibition and received its highest awards. Continuing on Bleury street, we soon reach on the left the Church of the Gesu, with St. Mary's College adjoining it, conducted by the Jesuit fathers. This church is model- ed after one of the same name at Rome, where the remains lOI of Loyola are entombed. The style of arcliitecture is the round Roman arch. The interior is one of tlu' most beau- tiful among American churches. Over the high altar is a fresco of the crucifixion. In the southern transei)t the sufferings of the first Canadian martyr, burnt by savages, are depicted. Leaving the elegant house of i)rayer. we shall continue on Bleury street until we come to St. Catharine street. A few steps brings us to the Nazareth Asylum for the Blind, attached to which (No. 1091) is a most ornate chapel, decorated in such a lovel) manner as to lead one to suppose that it was done to encourag ihe suffering inmates of the asylum to see. The next building on the side of the street (No. 1077 i. is the i^oman Catholic Commercial iAcadtmy, a lordl\ monu ment of wealth and munihcence, containing all the modern appliances for the practical training of youth, nnd jjresi^lcd over by an able staff of professors. If we kee]j going cast- ward on St. Catherine street, we i)ass on St. Dennis street, the immense parish church of St. James, with the tallest s])ire in the city. Near by is the new church which is dedi- cated to Notre Dame de Lourdes ; water and relics from her shrine at Lourdes in France, are for sale in the base- ment. Adjoining the church are its conventual buildings. Returning on St. Catharine street, we soon come to Christ Church Cathedral (Church of England), unquestionably the most beautiful specimen of gothic architecture in Canada. It is of cruciform design ; its extreme width is 100 feet. The spire, which is entirely of stone, rises to a height of 224 feet. The materials of construction are Montreal lime- stone and stone from Caen, in Normandy, which latter. l)y exposure to the weather, has changed from almost pure i ,i 102 whiteiiess to a yellow tint. On the grounds of the cathe- dral are erected the residences of the bishop and his assist- ants, the Synod Hall, and also a fine monument to Bishoj) Fulford, the first Metro])olitan of Canada. The street run- ning on the farther side of the cathedral is University street, and No. 82, one block distant, is the Natural History Museum, containing a good Canadian collection. Univer- sity street leads us down to Dorchester street, on the corner of which is the St. James Club House. Taking Dorchester street eastward, we pass on the left St. Paul's church (Pres- byterian). On the same side we soon have a view of the vast proportions of the new Roman Catholic Cathedral, in course of construction. Across the square on which St. Peters is building, we no- tice a beautiful church, St. Oeorges ^Church of England), and adjoining it is its Sunday school, the largest and best conducted in Canada. On Dorchester street, fronting Do- minion Square, on Peel street, is the Windsor Hotel. Next beyond on Dorchester street is the Victoria Skating Rink, where immense carnivals are held in the winter, the grand- est in the world ; in the summer the spacious edifice is used for concerts, walking matches, public gatherings, meetings, etc. Two blocks distant is the Foundling Hospital of the Gray Nun — a visit to which is thus described: A long pro- cession of the nuns marched slowly into the chapel and knelt in prayer. Each nun had a crucifix and a string of beads attached, and whatever may have been the case with their thoughts, their eyes never wandered, notwithstand- ing strangers were gazing at them. Some were young and pretty, others old and plain, but the sacred character of then- labor of love invested them all with beauty. We said I03 the eyes of none wandered. Perhaps we ought to confess that the quick, sharp glance of one, apparently younger than the others, started us for a moment ; but it was only curiosity — womanly curiosity — and what woman has not the curiosity to look at me. Yet that moment was fruitful of thought, and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed beauty rise in her place and mechanically follow her more staid sisters, our mind went back to the days of chivalry, when gallant knights rode with lance at rest, or wielded the heavy battle- axe in heroic deeds that they might win recognition from the proud ladies who looked down upon them. And as we thought, it seemed that the most gallant deeds which men of this nineteenth century might do, would be to rescue yoking and pretty nuns— who wanted to be rescued from the silence and sadness of the nunnery. We are now arrested by an immense structure even larger than the institution just passed; it is the Montreal college, which educates ecclesiastics, and also day pupils, and is under the care of the Suli^ician fathers. The two Martello towers in front of the college are relics of the times when incessant strife raged between the settlers and the Indians. Sherbrooke Street is adorned with the private residences for which the citizens of Montreal are proud, and in your drive around the town, previous to or after re- turning from your Park Mountain drive, it will repay one to drive through Sherbrooke, Dennis and Dorchester streets. The McCMU College, University and spacious groimds are the next points. 104 As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance we observe, as we glance up St: Famille Street, the enormous Hotel Dieu, with a large bright dome, a free hospital for all, under Roman Catholic direction. Returning to the Post Office, preferably by Beaver Hall Hill, we shall not fail to be struck by the number of hand- some churches erected there together. On the right is the Unitarian church, on the left, successively a Presbyterian, Baptist, and Jewish synagogue. Near by on Craig street, is a towered building occupied by the Young Men's Chris- tian Association. We are soon at the New St. Lawrence Hall, and before mentioning the drives that may be taken outside the city, it may be well to call attention to a few places near at hand a busin(iss man or a student may be interested in visiting : The Corn Exchange, foot of St. John street, the Merchants' Exchange. St. Sacrament street, the office, of the Telegraph Co., and the Open Stock Exchange, St. Francis Xavier street. Near the beginning of St. James street, on St. Gabriel street, is the Geological Museum, open daily from 10 to 4, containing an admirable collection of North Am- erican minerals, and many interesting fossils. Here may be seen, what many geologists regard as the most primitive record of life, the Eoxoon Cariaddense, first noticed at Perth, Ontario, by a Mr. Wilson. From the fact that the oldest fossil-bearing stratum, the Laurentian, is the back- bone, geographically, of Canada, and because of the great variety of rocks found in the immediate vicinity of Mon- treal, this museum is i)articularly attractive to a lover of science. An effort is on foot to deprive the city of this col - 105 Itction, and, for the sake of centralization, remove it to Ottawa. I offer this as an apology in case it should be removed. DRIVES. As I have said two. or three times, by far the most i)leas- ant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called the Park Mountain drive. There are, presumably, two roads : the shorter returns by McTavish Street, the other by Bleury. The park was laid out by Mr. Olmstead, the designer of Central Park, New York, whose achievements there were recognized by a statue adorning one of the entrances. The river view from Mount Royal is delightful, and must be seen to be appreciated. I dare not attempt to describe it. A suggestion of how to get a hundred pictures of every conceivable shape or form of landscape views, containing mountain, plain, river, lake, hillside, valley, etc., etc., is to close the eye, place the hands on each end of the forehead, and every time the carriage moves a hundred feet open the e}es and you have an entire new picture. Keep tliis up until you have had an elegant sufficiency of views. The next drive is around the mountain, and was the best until the completion of the Park Mountain drive ; it is pleasant and attractive when it includes a drive to the Catholic and Protestant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments and tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of interest. The drive to Longue Point, along the St. Lawrence in the opposite direction to the last, gives us an entirely different kind of scenery. It takes us through the village of Hoch- claga, the terminus of the new railroad, the Quebec, Mont- real, Ottawa and Occidental, which runs along the north io6 shore of the St. Lawrence, and develops tracts of countr) as yet unbenefitled by the iron horse. About a mile from the depot is the beautiful convent of the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary. Many young ladies from the United States have been educated at this convent. The next noteworthy building is the Lunatic Asyium. This unmense house, containing nearly 300 maniacs, idiots and imbeciles, is controlled by the Sisters of Providence ; these ladies, with the exception of six guardians for desperate characters, and a jihysician, have sole charge. They find no trouble in the care of the numerous inmates, and l)y their kindness and tact restore mental balance, in all the cases were cure is possible, in a tithe the time it used to take in the old days when the insane were treated witli harshness and cruelty. On our way to Longue Point, the villages of Loni^ueuil, Boucherville and Varennes lie on the opposite bank of the river. The drive to the Black river is an attractive one, and with citizens the most popular of all ; the beautiful convent of the Sacred Heart is situated here, and its grounds, finely laid out, lead directly to the water's edge. The bridge which spans the river at this place — a branch of the Ottawa — aftbrds one of the characteristic sights of Canada, the piloting of a raft through a tortuous channel. The size of an ordinary raft, its great value, from $100,000 to $300,000, the excitement of the captain and his French and Indian crew, with the constant perils threat- ening the whole structure, all conjoin to make up a scene to be dwelt ui)on and long remembered. Thus hoping the same will be said of your visit to Montreal, I shall ad\ise all to visit 107 iP QUEBEC. Tourists can take either tlie Grand Trunk, the North Shore, or the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co 's Hue of steamers. Tickets can be procured of the company's a-ent o})posite the New St. Lawrence Hall building, whJre st'kte- rooms, etc., may be secured. I assume that the river is the route selected, and that the reader is fairly on his way to that ancient city and former capitol. Passing a group of islands below Montreal and the mouth of the Ottawa river, we soon arrive ^t. SOREL, forty-five miles below— the first landing made by the steam- er. It was built upon the site of a fort built in 1755, by M. De Tracy and was for many years the summer rasidence of many successive Governors of Canada. Five miles below, the broad expanse of the river is called LAKE ST. PETER, which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis river enters here. Large rafts are observed here slowly floating to the great mart at Quebec. THREE RIVERS IS situated at the confluence of the river St. Mauric;e and St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and the same 'listauce above Quebec. It is one of the oldest settled towns in Canada, having been founded in 16 iS. It is well iaul out and contains many good buildings, among which loS are the Court House, the Goal, the Roman Catholic Church, the Ursuline Convent, the English and Wesleyan churches. The population of Three Rivers is about 9,20c. BATISCAN is situated on the north shore of the river, one-hundred and seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the last place the steamers stop before reaching Quebec. It is a j^lace of httle importance. In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, the country upon its banks presents a sameness in its general scenery, until we approach the vicinity of Quebec. The villages and hamlets are decidedly French in character, gen- erally made up of small buildings, the better class of which are ])airited white or whitewashed, with red roofs. Prom- inent in the distance appear the tile-covered spires of the Catholic churches, which are all constructed in that unique style of architecture so peculiar to that Church. During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. Louis Hotel, and if carriages are desired the hotel will furnish the same. This was made necessary in order to stop the imposition that is practiced by out-side parties. CITY OF QUEBEC. Quebec, by its historic fame and its unequalled scener}-. is no ordinary or common-place city, for though, like other large communities, it carries on trade, commerce and mari- ufactures ; cultivate'- art, science and literature ; abounds in charities, and ])rofesses special regard to the amenities uf 109 social life, it claims particular attention as being a striking- ly unique old place, the stronghold of Canada, and, in fact, the key of the Province. Viewed from any of its approach- es, it impresses the stranger with tlie conviction of strength and permanency. The reader of American history, on entering its gates or wandering over its squares, ramparts and battle fields, puts himself at once in communion with the illustrious dead. The achievements of darinsz mariners the labors of self-sacrificing Missionaries of the Cross, and tlie conflicts of military heroes, who bled and died in the assault and defence of its walls, are here re red with ten- fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her grandest and most rugged, as in her gentler and most smiling forms, will find in and around it an affiuence of sublime and beautiful objects. The man of science, too, may be equally gratified, for here the great forces of nature and secret alchemy may be studied with advantage. Quebec can never be a tame or insipid place, and with moderate opportunities for ad- vancement, it must become one of the greatest cities of the \ew World in respect of learning, art, commerce and man- ufactures. The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel de Cham- plain, in 1608. In 1622 the population was reduced to tiftv souls. n In June, 1759, the English army under General Wolfe landed upon the Island of Orleans. On the 12 th of Sep- tember took place the celebrated battle of the Plains of Abraham, which resulted in the death of Wolfe, and the defeat of the French army. A force of 5,000 English troops, % ' y ..i> ^ ' ^ w .*i ^r ^-::si. • U I lO ^tcg'Fep jm ¥KE*-s. aiit otti QaEBEC. (I t :l )• ft liU an ah dlV iicj Di 'V\ Ml .'arl Ill under General Murray, were left to garrison the fort. Tlie city is very interesting to a stranger ; it is the only walled city in North America. Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is three hundred and forty-five feet in height, and derives its name from the quantity of crystal mixed with the granite below its surface. The fortress includes the whole space on the Cape. Above the spot where General Montgomery was killed is now ^he mclined place, running to the top of the bank • it is five hundred feet long, and is used by the Government to convey stores and other articles of great weight to the fortress. THE CITADEL, will perhaps prove the point of greatest interest to many, from the historical associations connected therewith, and from the fact that it is considered an impregnable fortress. It covers an enclosed area of forty acres, and is some three luiiulred and forty feet above the river level. The zigzag {passages through which you enter the fortress, between high and massive granite walls, is swept at every turn by forniid- able batteries of heavy guns. On the forbidding river walls and at each angle or possible commanding point, guns of heavy calibre sweep every avenue of a])proach by the river. Ditches, breast-works and frowning batteries command the ipproaches by land from the famed " Plains of Abraham." The precipitous bluffs, rising almost perpendicularly from the river three hundred and forty feet, present a natural inirner which may be swei)t with murderous fire, and the ,-p.^mu.maBSBm 112 covered ways of approach and retreat, the various kinds and calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers and munitions of war, will be viewed with eager interest. Among the places of note may be mentioned: The plains of Abraham, with its humble monument, marking the place where fell the illustrious Wolfe ; the Governor's (larden, with its monii ment to Wolfe and Montcalm; the spot where fell the American General, Montgomery ; St. John's Gate, the onl\- gate remaining of the five that originially pierced the walls of the city ; the Roman Catholic Cathedral, with its man\ tine old paintings ; the Episcopal Cathedral ; the Esplanade, from which is one of the finest views in the world ; Houses of Parliament ; Spencer Wood, the residence of the Lieut. Governor ; Laval University, &c. &c. The city and environs abound in drives, varying horn five to thirty miles, in addition to being on the direct line of travel to the far-famed Saguenay, Murray Bay, Kamour- aska, Gacouna, Rimouski, Gaspe, and other noted watering places. Quebec can minister abundantly to the tastes of thu.sc who like to yacht, fish or shoot. Yachting, in fact, has become of late the leading recreation in Quebec. \ on can on those mellow Saturday afternoons in August and September, meet the whole sporting and fashionable world of Upper Town on the Durham Terrace or Lower Town wharves, bent^on witnessing a trial of speed or seamanship between the Mouette^ the Black Hawk, the Wasp, the Shannon, the Bon Homme Richard, and half a score of crack yachts with their owners. 113 i kinds ions of e places tm, with fell tlic 5 monu fell the the onW the walls its many ,splana(le. ; Houses the Lieut. lying from rect line of Kamour- d watering les of those n fact, has ebec. Veil August and nable world ower Town seamanship misj>. the a score of Let us see what the city contains :-_ First, the west win^^ 1 milt about 1789, by Governor Haldiniand, to enlarlain by rail. The rail passing close along the lake shore, one gets a very nice view, nicer, as I have often expressed it, than if the parties were on the boat, as they cannot see both shores on a boat at once, unless the tourist's eyes were cut on the bias or cross, thus enabhng them to see both sides at once. The rail is preferable and saves time. As it is immaterial to me how you reach Ticonderoga, it is presumed you get there, Lake George Junction, where you change cars and connect for Baldwin, which is a ride of about fifteen minutes. You are now supposed to have arrived on board the company's steamer Horicon, and are saihng up Lake George. Now, if the reader expects me to describe Lake George, I shall simply say. No ! with a large N. It is too much ; its praises have been written and sung for the past half century by thousands. I shall with pleas- ure and reUef to myself ask the loan of your scissors. Thanks; now we can comply with your wishes : A\'e have started on our trip through this magical lake. It is difficult to describe the quiet delight one feels as he gazes on the expanse of the tranquil azure spread before liim like a part of the sky inlaid on the emerald bosom of the earth. Peace is in the very air which lazily slumbers over the water, while the monotone of the silvery ripples rolling on the yel- low sands, and the musical moan of the breeze in the cone- scented pines, seem to carry the soul back to other days. Lake George is, indeed, hke a work of art of the highest order, for it has the quality of improving, the more one vmmmngmmmmm 122 Studies its attractions, and the ever-harmonious flow of lines constantly suggests a composition of consumate genius in which every effect has been combined to produce a cer- tain ideal. xVow, dear reader, I have a favor to ask of you : read this little book as far as Saratoga description commences ; then lay it aside, and feast the eyes on Lake George for the next two hours, and, if you can describe its beauties, do so to the best of your ability, and forward to me, 21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y., and it shall have a place in this work, and you shall have the credit for the same ; — the task was too much for me. CAMPING OUT. The lake is a famous camping-ground during July and August, and its enjoyments, with bits of sound advice, can- not be better given than by the following, from Stoddard's charming Guide to Lake (ieorge : •' The lovely islands are suddenly astir with busy throngs. Rocks are decked with blue and gray, the tree-tops blush with bunting ; shores put on a flannelly hue, and shadowy points blossom out in duck and dimity. It is safe to say that in the course of the season a thousand people taste the I)leasures and overcome the difficulties that but season the glorious dish of camj) life at Lake George. Among the necessaries are a light axe. long handle frying-pan, tin pail for water or coftee, tin plate, pint cu]), knife and iork. and fishing tackle. A stove-top laid on a fire-place of stones and mud. and supjilied with one length of stove-pij)e. is a positive luxury to the cook. Spruce boughs for a bed. with two or three good woolen blankets for covering, will l)e 123 o\\ of genius a cer- : read lences ; for the , do so iiestnut in this he task Lily and ce, can- oddard's throngs, ps bhish found very comfortable ; a small bag to fill with leaves or moss for a pillow pays for itself in one night. Flannel or woolen clothing, with roomy boots and a soft felt hat, is (jrdinarily the safest dress. Ladies, wear what you have x: mind to — you will, anyway— but let it be tlannel next to you, good strong shoes under foot, and a man's felt hat overhead ; take the man along too — he will be useful to take the fish off your hook, run errands, etc. Boats and provisions may be obtamed at almost any of the hotels. Bacon, salt pork, bread and butter, Boston crackers, tea, coffee, sugar, pepper and salt, with a tin box or two for containing the same, are among the things needed. Milk can be obtained regularly at the farm houses, and berries picked almost anywhere. Ice is a luxury which may be contracted for and thrown from the passing steamers daily ; a hole in the ground with a piece of bark over it forms a very good ice-box. A drinking cup of leather, to cany in the pocket, comes ' .ndy at times. Broad-brimmed straw hats are a nuisance. A shanty of houghs will answer in absence of anything better ; it sounds well when you talk about ' roughing it,' but it is bad in practice. A tent is best, and may be made very comfort- al)le with a little outlay of money and labor." THE ADIR0NDACK3. The great wilderness of north-eastern New York, the limits of which we will not try to define, is generally known as the North Woods, or as the Adirondacks according to the view taken of its surface. The filmier title indicates merely a wild, densely wooded region ; the latter, a region occupied by all the varied scenery ])er- ^1 124 taining to a most remarkable lake and mountain system. This wild region of dense forests, majestic mountains, maiinificent lakes and beautiful rivers, lies in the counties of Herkimer, Hamilton, Lewis, St. Lawrence, Clinton. Franklin and f^ssex, and aggregates over 3,500,000 acres, a tract of land of an area of nearly 100 square miles. This region is the only primitive hunting and fishing ground left in New York state, and offering, as it does, rare health- restoring (jualities, combined with excellent deer hunting, and the best brook and lake trout fishing accessible, is yearly more than doubling its number of visitors — in fact, the limit is only measured by hotel capacity. It is not our purpose, nor would it be possible in so small a work as this. to go into details as to the wilderness, but guide books arc- easily obtained, and from one of them w^e take the following : " The Adirondack wilderness, as known to the publi( generally, may be divided into three general divisions or systems, which collectively entertain the great bulk of visitors, and are representative of the whole, namely, tht- Saranac and St. Regis waters of Franklin county, wliosc natural gateway is Plattsburg and Port Kent ; the mountain region of Keene, North Flba and Lake Placid, in Essex county, with entrance at Westport, and the Blue Mountaiii and Raquetie waters, in Hamilton county, reached by \\i\\ of the Adirondack railroad from Saratoga. Of these sections the first mentioned has become the most widely celebrated as a region where fashion and fish- ing is admirably blended, and has its patrons who are looked for as regularly as the seasons. The second is less known in fact, but its grand mountains and lovely valleys have he- i aiff m 125 ystem. iitains, )unties linton. I acres. This nd left health - minting, jible, is in fact, not oui as this. )oks arc ake the J publii sions or bulk of lely, the whose lountain n Essex ^ountairi by way come familiar on the canvas of our great painters ; while the Raquette region has an air of newness and morning freshness, as if just awakened from a long and refresliin*^- sleep, and is making rapid strides in popular favor. Each section while possessing something of the characteristics of the others, has its own individual attractions ; and while connected by natural highways, over which the nomad often goes, they still to a considerable extent, preserve their in- dividuality, and each is complete and sufficient unto itself. A peculiarity of the Adirondack region is its freedom from rough or vicious characters. Evil finds nothing congenial in its bright skies and pure, fresh atmosphere. Convention- alities that obtain at other resorts are not held here, and it is possible for gentlemen to wear blue shirts and soft hats, and for ladies to travel without male escort other than the necessary compliment of guides to furnish motive power, from one end of the wilderness to the other. Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most fashionable resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the conven- tional "stage trapper," who occasionally burst upon the astonished wilderness in fringed bucksin. Your right to enter the best society will not be questioned because of dress. Clothing ordinarily worn is sufficient for all occa- sions here." The Adirondack region is steadily growing in favor as a resort for persons afflicted with throat and lung troubles ; and while it is not by any means a sure cure for all, how- ever deeply seated the disease may have become, yet if per- sons so afflicted will go there in time, they will find the dry, pure air, impregnated as it is with balsam and pine, to be of infinite relief, and many living witnesses are there 126 found to prove its benefits. Several articles have been written u])on this subject which mislead the public, and, in conse(juence, many people, past all possible cure, have been sent there, with only natural results. We would only say. consult your ])hysician, and, if you are not past cure, we believe this section to be as nearly affording a remedy as any spot on the continent. Places of entertainment, from the well-appointed hotel on the border to the rude log-house and open camp of the interior, are found at short intervals throughout the entire wilderness, all waiting with open doors to receive the stranger. Guides and boats may be had at all the hotels. Under head of '• Gateways " will be found the nearest points reached by railroad and stage routes, distances, etc. to the most prominent resorts. GATEWAYS. From Plattsburg, take Chateaugay Railroad, thirty six miles to Lyon Mountain, thence by stage four miles t "• Ralph's " on upper Chateaugay Lake. From Au Sable (20 miles west of Plattsburg on branch railroad). Stages leave here every morning (Sundays ex- cepted) on arrival of early trains, for French's, 18 miles; Franklin Falls, 20 miles ; Bloomingdale, 28 miles ; Loon Lake House, on Loon Lake, 28 miles ; Rainbow House, on Rainbow Lake, 35 miles ; Martin's on Saranac Lake. 37 miles ; Paul Smith's, on St. Regis Lake, 38 miles ; Pros- pect House, on Saranac Lake, 41 miles ; Bartlett's, on Saranac Lake, 49 miles. 127 e been and, in ve been nly say. ure, we nedy as ed hotel ip of the le entire eive the le nearest nces, etc. thirty si\ r miles t on branch undays ex- 18 miles; iles ; Lo'"^ )ow House, -anac Lake, niles; Prus- artlettV, on From ElizAbethtown delightful trips are made into the mountain region, through Keene Valley via Indian Pass, and to Au Sable Pond, one of the most beautit'ul si)ots in the wilderness, also by North Elba, Lake Placid and Wil- mington Notch, passing immediately under the shadow of Whiteface and Haystock Mountains, and out at Au Sable station, or return to Elizabethtown. FACILITIES FOR LAKE TRAVEL. The Champlain Transportation Company run a rci^ular line of steamboats the entire length of the lake, making three round trips daily (except Sundays), and stoi)ping at all way landings. The Horicon of this line, making the re- regular connections with the railroad, is a fine side-wheel steamer 203 feet long and 52 feet wide over all, and is 643 tons burden, and will accomodate comfortably 1,000 peo- ple. I can truthfully say that upon no inland lake in the world is the passenger service so promptly and regularly (lone, and passengers so elegantly cared for as upon Lake George. Caldwell is the railroad terminus, and is the largest town on the lake. It is situated at the extreme southeni end. or head of the lake (the waters flowing north and empt}'ing into Lake Champlain, immediately at the ruins of old Fort^ Ticonderoga). Here, at Caldwell, is located the handsome dock and depot building of the railroad compan}-, whose trains run down the dock immediately to the steamers — one of which leaves upon the arrival of each train for all ])oints down the lake. The railroad was extended to this point last season, thus saving at least one hour of time and better facilities for the accomodation of tourists and pleasure tra\el. km V ' \ : ■w i: 1 1 1 128 ^^^Ito. E}l^iiAGAMOKE},^» On Green Island, Lake George. C'ouuected witli Maiu Laud by Bridge. This sjileiidid new Hotel is opeu for guests from early in June until tlie last week in October. It is supplied with « Passenger Flevator, Electric Lights in every Roonn. And all the Latest Conveniences. 'jf Its Situation is tlie Finest on the Lake, i> EXCELLENT TABLE. REASONABLE KATES. Easy of access by boat from Oaldwi il, where trains with palace cars arrive from Saratoga, New York and intermediate points sev- eral timee daily. For descriptive circular and plans of rooms, address ivi. O. BROWN, LESSEE AND PROPRIETOR, Lake George, Warren Co., N. Y. BOLTON LANDING P. 0. until ihr eniences. .e, 4?. h palate Ints sev- :0R IG P. 0. 129 LAKE GEORGE. Every American, or tourist, should see it at least once. It is the largest of the Adirondack chain. 346 feet above the sea, and 247 above Cham])lain, 35 miles lou^^r ^nd from two to four in width, and (i^d from mountniu brooks and springs coming up from the bottom, making it lrausi)ar- cnt. It is beautifully dotted with over 200 islands, and surroimded by liigh mountains, some rising 2.000 feet above the water, clothed with foliage and dotted with villas and l)icturesque camps ; one feels like leaving the boat and re- maining in this bower of enchantment. The steamer touches at all points of note and arrives at the Sagamore House, and those who desire to remain and enjoy the beau- ful spot we advise them to stay at the SAGAMORE HOUSE, on Green Island,- Lake George, it is connected with a bridge to the main shore, and is by many points a superior resort. The Sagamore is the largest and latest built of all Hotels in this vicinity, and it contains more modern built improve- ments than any hotel at Lake George, conibining as it does^ the grandest views, the most picturesque scenery, boating and bathing, with rambles through groves, woods, fields and mountains, one can never tire of such varied recreation. Vour stay will be made more pleasant if you mention to the proprietor that you was advised by the " Phat Boy" or read- ing this book to remain over. I am confident you will never regret it. Connections are, however, arranged for and you can if you wish, leave immediately for 130 lu ,. „j, HENRY CLAIR, LESSEE. ^}cGRAND3|E^ UNION I HOTEL. OPE\ FRdxlI Jl ^'E TO OCTOBEH. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 131 L. SARATOGA SPRINGS, the focus to which the fashionable world of the United States, indeed, of Europe is annually drawn. Here are in- tellectual men, stylish men the beaux of society, and the man of the world ; ladies of social rank, the managing mother, the marriageable daughters, the flattering bee of fashion, and the more gentle bird of beauty, are found amidst the throng, for Saratoga is cosmopolitan. As a gentleman said to me one day, " I can meet more of my friends in one hour during the season at Saratoga, than 1 could at home in a week." The ladies here have ample opportunities to display their peculiar charms and graces. The sporting gentleman can also find an opportunity to gratify his peculiar tastes ; tiie philosopher may study Ini- man nature ; theinvahd find perfect health ; in fact every one at Saratoga finds that peculiar pleasure they most desire. Of all the elegant hotels which here abound we have not space to mention. 1 will, therefore, speak of those I know, the United States, Grand Union, and Adelphi, con- fident they can please any one paying them a visit. The Grand Union Hotel is the great hou.^e of Saratoga, having a frontage of i8oo feet ; the massive tower which rises in the centre is 200 feet high to the summit, reveafing a landscape of 75 miles in circumference of wonderous beau- ty. It will accommodate 1,300 guests comfortably ; it has all modern im])rovemeats. To give )'ou an idea of its magni- tude ; its piazzas are over a mile in length; halls, two miles ; carpets, ten acres ; number of rooms, eleven hund- red. Over five hundred thousand dollars have been expend- ed in decorating, re-furnishing and embellishing its grounds. \M\\ :{fi^ UJ 'J < CO > T^ -^ ' — J 1^ O: o - a: a. o q: a CJ u CO < O a. o » z cr Q. CO < O e < t/2 (1 ai in q: LU Q. Ill 'K w Jl'r'-'^i'f'Vf^yj^^armKiJ-'vivmM-jrmi ■■P-^--jgiWfT,"in;--^^ipgi- -mre^ ^33 Its Cuisine is perfection. The garden or lawn parties given at this hotel are the recherche event of the season. The lessee of this establishment is Mr. Henry Clair, who is also lesee of the MetropoUta.n and Park Avenue Hotels \e\v York ; the latter is the only absolute fire-i)roof liotel in America. The court, which is one hundred feet square, has electric lights. The garden is a superb bower of beau- ty, summer and winter. The house has over six hundred rooms and can accommdate eight hundred guests. The library connected has five thousand volumes, accessible to guests ; the location is Fifth Avenue, Thirty-Second and Thirty-Third streets, New York. The leap into public huor of this popular hotel during the past year is astounding. THE UNITED STATES HOTEL. This palatial hotel, the summer residence of the most re- fined circle of American fashion and society, and equaling in magnificence the finest summer resort of the old weld. was built upon the grounds of the old L'nited States Hotel, which was the famous establishment in its da\', but was dc- situyed by fire in 1864. .\nd many a prominent man to- day c 111 look back upon the hajjpy memories of the old ])lace and recall scenes of pleasure, the greenest in his memory. The United States Hotel of to-day, is o\\^ of the most mag- nificent hotel structures in the world, the architecture is of Norman style, and is both elegant and beautiful in all the riune implies, it covers and encloses seven acres of ground. u the shape of an irregular pentagon. The •■ Cottage W ing " on the south side exten-. r^i 1 Z^ > i ■■^ .: if -X M5 ■'-'•3 c. c tjt ''-' ^'£ u • <-= w I I I S i X i- X w •/. »-. - tc y. i -x r"/.- featiire, as it affords not only families but otliers who de- sire the seclusion of a home with the conveniences of a first class hotel. The rooms are arranged with from one to seven bed-rooms, with parlors, bath and closet to please any taste. The main entrance to the United States hotel is on Broadway, in which is located the elegant drawing-room, superbly furnished with Axminster carpets, covered walnut furniture, frescoed ceilings, costly mirrors, lace curtains and chandeliers. Across the hall is r. rich and exquisitely furn- ished ladies parlor ; on the corner of Broadway and Division streets is the reading room and the business offices of the hotel, beyond which is the capacious dining-room, sixty-two feet wide by two hundred and twelve feet long, twenty-two feet high, adjoining which are, private drawing-rooms the the children's ordinary, carving rooms and kitchen, which is said to be the most complete in the world. It has over 900 rooms and can accommodate 1,300 guests. The (Irand Ball Room, one hundred and twelve by fifty-three feet, tvrenty-six feet high, is on the second floor of Division street. No other hotel in the world presents the features for promenades, with such extensive piazzas, courts and gar- dens, ornamented with all that nature, art and mone\- could lavish upon a scene, the whole made brilliant bv the jcnous happy throng of humanity, representing the wealth, culture. and refinement of America. This immense establishment is under the personal supervision of gentlemen of recognized ability and experience, Mr. H. Tompkins, Mr. J. L. Perry, Mr. W. B. Gage and L. H. Jauvin. and is open from June 15 th until Oct. I St, each year. ;>"iv O ^ ^u ■^ rf» 0} M 5 %ii m X n h4 f Q Qi PS C8 00 00 O O (f) < 0) q: X j/ Congress Hall was purchased in iST-S by Mr. \\\ ]\ Clement, of Cincinnati, Ohio, and Mr. John' Cox. of New York, who have placed it under permanent management. Congress Hall is built of brick, with brown-stone trim- mmgs The roof is a mansard, with three pavilions, winch alfords wide and delightful views from the j^romenadcs on top. Interior fire-walls are provided to i^revent the spread of fire, and Otis elevators afford easy access to all the Ht^ois of the house. The rooms are all large, high and well veiii- ilated, and properly provided with annunciators, gas. ar. The halls, dining-rooms, parlors and offices are o\ grand proportions, and are furnished with an elegance that be- speaks comfort and neatness in all its dei)artments. l^he ventilation of the dining-room and kitchen has been much unproved, and a steam heating , pparatus intnxluced on the main floor for use whenever changes in the temjjerature re- quire it. Hot and cold water have been carried to every floor, and a large number of baths and chjsets added for tiie convenience of guests. The ball-room of the Congres.^^ is one of the finest in Northern New \'ork, being mos^t ex- quisitely frescoed and adorned with costly chandeliers an -5. «3 5 2 "■ 5 - 1* t^ -* ^ Vrv P C -S :3 • = £f ■ +j S3 •*-' ^ . j; o t/i ■« . -^-^ be IS t: c . ^ s 1^ i! ~ ^ ^ . a^ s .^ 4-- ^« Vf'Tt ^ ^ ,^ ^__^ ,^ V, X O rt 9 ^— ' > ^_ -iiA . i '■ '^ C -" ^ = c c c ■'■ c rt rt ^ X - •= = X ^ a > - D — — 2 — E ;- < ^ o 2 ~ — ' Z . CM r C r c — X c p •) - 1^ c. i 5 ^ 2 - - X "5 "^ c, ^ ^ ■- •§ ii *f t -^ '^ -^ •— ^ fc.-si S - o ,i 5. '■" ? (A ^— Z k — < r ^, M5 NEW YORK. To those visiting \e\v York for the first time, a few words of advice mav not come amiss. 1 therefore suuirest arriving, if possible, by daylight. Everyoi^e in the city minds their own business, a credit in some ways • but some people make it their business to tleece the stranger. I would, therefore, say keep your own counsel. If informa- tion be required, ask a policeman. Upon arrival, take cars or stage, if possible, to destination. If you desire any of the hotels represented in this work, you will always find one or more trusty porters at trains or boats. Avoid, if j)ossi- ble, the hacks, unless you make a fair, scjuare bargain be- fore entering the vehicle ; your trunk or valise may accom- pany you with carriage. You will always find u[)on all trains or boats, courteous agents of the different baggage express companies, who will take your cheek, giving a re- ceipt for the same, which relieves you and saves much trou- ble and annoyance, as their delivery system is prompt and their charges a stipulared price ; no deviation, except for quantity. Something should be said here regarding the metropolis of the American Continent, but space as well as time pre- vents. As everything seen here is in grandeur superior to elsewhere, the impression made upon the mind while here will be everlasting, I shall not try to befog the mind with as meager a mention as 1 am capable of giving, but simply mention three of the princii)al hotels. The one first at hand is the Grand Union Hotel. 42d street, near the (xrand Central Depot. Money-getting being the chief aim of life, its proper expenditure should not )»rove of secondary im- f fi!l V- ■ '!' c ..J. c o K x^ • ■f. CA. X o F— it n X t s: o C: r; i^T • ct ^ ;^ O rt i ■<-J >» o cc 7" •"* «©■ •/: p^^ r/ 21^ _"^ c m ^ 1-^ p^ ^ a z: <— T 7t o ZJ tl. C c; rH* o ^^ 1 ^. — < ri o c S <^ /^ T" I'"- " 7~^ 1 I/'. j.n u 146 KEEKER'S Sr t3 d Pj ^ -t X S5 c ft ^^. a 2 » s ^ I-*' _. '^ g or. H 2. ? > C ^ - ct t3 (I or. o .ej- CD B C • CO ^ E o X O 7: cr; CD OK CO c 667 to 677 BROADWAY. ATTRACTIONS OF THE GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL. This Hotel is universally acknowledged the coolest in New York. The Avide. straight lialls running from Broadway to Blercer street, insure perfect circulation of air. The five large and elegant parlors. The handsomely decorated and cheerftd Dining and Supper Rooms. It is provided with two of <>tis it Co.'s celebrated Elevators. Six outside Fire Escapes have been re- cently added, which, with Five Wide Stairways, from roof to ground floor, makes the " GUAM) CENTRAL HOTEL ' The Safest Hotel in America. Earli floor in tlic biilldiiiu: Im iit^flitly patrolled by » M'alcliiiiaii "ivltli a tell-tale eloek. 147 c P c in- rt S5 i- a C O O OB <^ zr. K S s: portance. The travel consumes a much larger portion of our finances than it should, is evident from the fart that but few possess the secret of retrenching in this direction. Two important factors of expense in travel is carria-e hire and transfer of baggage, and that the tra\eling ind^lic is more generally becoming disposed to throw oft" their former burden, is patent from the army of guests who dall>- register at and fill the 6oo rooms (reduced to $i.oo and upwards per day), at the Grand Union Hotel, opposite the (xrand Central Depot, New York City. Its European plan, ele- gant restaurants, cafe, lunch and wine rooms, unexcelled, cuisine, moderate prices, courteous treatment, unchallcn^red management, coupled with its guests incurrmg no ex])ense for carriage hire, or baggage transfer, with elevated rail- way, horse cars and stages to all parts of the city, passing its doors, renders the Grand Union one of the most desira- ble of homes for travelers in the city, and also established its success and world-famed populariiy. The next on the list is the Grand Central Hotel, Broad- way, one of the largest in the city. It has lately beei^i re- fitted, re-decorated and re-furnished, and under its present projjrietors, Messrs. Keefer & Co., is receiving the patron- age its merits deserve. It is run on the American and Eu- ropean plans, so that anyone can be pleased. Its graded prices, its location and appointments, together with the friends one meets here (as it is patronized by more South- erners than any hotel in New York), makes ii a i)leasan place for tourist or traveler. I make it my home when in the city, and feel confident you will be pleased and recom- mend your friends there after a visit, the same as I do you. There was some talk of changing the name of this " land. 148 The Favorite Route for Fashionable Pleasure Travel UTICA & BLACK RIVER R.R. THE CXLY ALL-RAIL ROUTE To THE Thousand Islands, :3 all p3in.t3 in Kortliern Ksw York, Rivsr St. Lawrence anl Canala. This line is pre-emineutly the route for Tourist travel, and was constructed with that end in view. It runs via Utica, ]\Iohawk River. Cincinnati Creek, Trenton Falls. Highlands of Brown's Tract. The Sunset Slope of the Adiron- dacks, Sugar River. Black River, and Indian River to the River St. T>aw- rence. It is popularly known as the Elegant Line to the Islands, and it is ABSOLUTELY THE ONLY SCENIC ROUTE. During the Summer season elegantly equipped fast trains are run be- tween Utica and the River St. Lawrence. These solid trains are com- pletely eiiuipped with Westinghouse Automatic Air Brakes, make quick time and very few stops. They are run expressly for the Tourist Travel, and carry elegant new Through Coaches and Dra wing-Room Cars. They are in every respect first-class trains.* Wagner Sleeping Cars leave New York 9:00 p. m. Wagner Drawing Room Cars leave Albany 8:25 a. m.^ And Run to Clayton Without Change. Immediate connection is made at Claj'ton with fast passenger steamboats landing passengers directly in front of hotels at Round. Iftilatid, Thoitjtiand Island Park, AVeftitniinster Park, Alexandria Bay, and all Tlionsand Island Resorts. EXCrRSIOX TICKETS AT AL.Ii OFFICES. If you cannot get them buy to Utica only.- This is the all-rail conxect- IXO LINE WITH THE St. LaWRENCE StEA.AIBOAT COMPANY STEAMERS FOR MON- TREAL. 3 Express Trains leave Clayton Daily. Wagner Drawing Room Cars Clayton to Albany. Wagner Sleeping Cars Clayron to New York direct, and iinmediate connection for Saratoga, Rich- tield. Boston, and New England Points. Niagara Falls, Chicago and theAVest. The illustrated l)()ok. "Routes and Rates for Summer Tours,"' 100 pages, profusely ilkistrated. and containing maps. lUi ot hotels, and routes and rates for Sim.) tours, will be mailed to any address upou receipt of 10 cents postage. It is the best l)ook given awa^'. Send 'or a copy before deciding upon your sununer trip. E. A. VAN HORN, General ,Siiiienntendent. THEO. BUTTtRFIELD, General Pannengcr Agent, (Jtica, X. Y. L*^i 149 mark " on account of the thorouo;h chaniie in tlic hotel and management, although I confess it would be applica])lc to the situation, as everything else has l)een changed, it wouid be better for its patrons to advertise the changes than the new name. Therefore, no matter what they call tlie Grand Central, it will please you as a hotel, and its i)rices are not extravagant. I take pleasure in mentioning here " The old Democratic wStandard." the Metropolitan Hotel, Broadway, New York. Mr. Henry Clair, the lessee, has more hotels under his sui)ervision than any man in the world, and he surprised me more in a ten minutes inter- view than any man ever did. He is a ]:»erfect encycloj)edia of hotel business. Having become the lessee of the follow- ing hotels ought to be a guarantee that what the public de- sire they will find at the Metropolitan. Park Avenue. Xew York ; the Grand Union, Saratoga Springs ; and the Wind- sor, Saratoga. I would like to say liere that 1 ])ul)lished this book and advised the advertisers therein to take the space, feeling it would bring back to them four-fold what they paid me. It will, therefore, aftbrd me pleasure to have you mention to any of the advertisers that it was through my solicitation, and this work that }'ou favored them with your patronage ; it will do you no harm and bene- fit me. Those tourists who go to Boston from Albany, (jver the Boston and Albany Railroad, will find it a first-class route- BOSTON IS one of the most interesting of American cities, not only on account of its thrilling traditions and historical associa- tions, but for public enteri)rise and social culture, educa- fi ■ i, m ■ 'a Babies Thrive en it. Ridge's Food FOIl Infants and Invalids Is a c(jiK'entrate(l prepar- ation of wlieat, and is so prepared as to he accept- able to the most delictite stomach. lu case a babe cannot have the natural supply. Kid^^es Food is the best substitute. It is (luii-kly prepared, and therefore may always be fresh and of uniforiii richness. By observing the spec'ud d'l- nct'ioiix. this food can lie adapted to all the various needs of infantile life. It cannot cause acidity or wind For young children it is invaluable, as froru its pur- ity, strength, and great nourishing properties, be- ing peculiarly and thor- oughly cooked in its manu- facture, it will furnish a full meal for a growing child. It JM iioiirisliiiig; Hntis- fyiiiKt niid cliildreii like it Ridge's Food Ensures Happy Childhood. It lins been and !!«tili Ih the uiiiiiii of tiie .>[niiiifiictiirerN, and lias the indorse- ment of the luiblit'^ that RIDGE'S FOOD is the most reliable footi in the world for Infants and Child- ren. It roinbines all the elements for Perfect Growth as in no other. It is a fact that more children have been saved and successfully reared by RIDGE'S FOOD than by ALL THE OTHER FOODS COMBINED. Especially in cases of C'H(^LERA INFANTUM, Chronic Diarrhoea, and all diseases of the Bowels, the use of Ridge's Food is invaluable. Not only has it an agreeable ilavor, but the system will retain and assimilate it when everything else fails. A r%|1f nrC ^w^^v'm^from Prositration of the system SinA General Iklnl'ity iVlilU Li 1 3 will find Ridge".s Food the desideratum for weak stomachs, being easily digested, while for all Sunuiier Complaints, as a dietetic. it is invaluable. l^YQpnpnripC ^^'ill find J-^ RiDOEs Food every qualification \J I i^llLJr 1 IviO necessary, as it is a stecun. cfxiked food, wherein all the tlesh-foriuing properties are retained. Ridge's Food makes delicious Blanc-Mauge, Custards, Etc. Kidffe's Food is sold by all first-elass DrngKists. In cans, ;i.1c, «3c, $1,'15 and $1.73. Two sizes for Canadian markets, o5c, &$1. Motliers and nurses, send to Manufacturers for pam- phlets (free) on ReariuR of Children. Set of cards free for stamp. WOOLRICfl & CO , Mannfacturers. Palmer, Mass. '51 tional and literary tacilities. Boston is i)eriiliariy Boston. and naone can describe its public private or natural beau- ties in the space allotted me here. The principal si^rhts are Bunker Hill monument, Faneuil Hall, the Common, Public Garden, old and new State houses, Public Library, old and new South Churches, Natural History buildings. Agricul- tural building, Institute of Tecilmology. now Trinity Church, Mount Auburn, Harvard I'niversity building, Music Hall, the great organ. City Hall, hospitals and other sights too numerous for mention here. 1 'rimountain, or Three Moun- tains as Boston was originally called, is a peninsula of about 700 acres, almost surrounded by the sea. Its climate in the hottest part of seasons is deliciously cool, bracing and in- vigorating, and it is undoubtedly one of the healthiest cities in the world. Its harbor, one of the best on the coast, is about twenty miles long by eight wide. Its many islands and coast are lined with thousands of delightful summer re- sorts, reached by numerous railroads and steamboats every hour of the day, forming a panorama of busy life and ])lea- sure to be seen nowhere else. Its drives inland are none the less interesting and picturesciue, whether we visit the classic shades of old Harvard, the romantic walks at Wellesley, or the hundred delightful suburltan villages, whose well kept streets, bright lawns, and elegant gardens simply reflect the elegance and taste within the homes of those who made Boston what it is. The excellent horse- car service of Boston is one of its best institutions. \o- where else in the country is this important convenience to visitors so complete as here. The broad, handsome open cars reach all points within ten miles of the City Hall, imd give visitors a most delightful opportunity to see the attrac- tions at the least possible charge. 152 l: M TAKE THE FALL RIVER LINE betwp:en :^1 ii < I ^rxA. iF^LiL :rx-^:bzu. SL'PEHB NKW IRON STEAMER " PILGRIM " AND WORLD RENOWNED STEAMER. (( PROVIDENCE" I : THK (IRKAT ROUTE BETWEEN New York and Boston, Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, Lowell, Fitch- hurg, Lawrence, Taunton, Portland., Bangor, Me., St. John, N. B., Halifax, N. S., White Moun- tains, Mount Desert, and all the Moun- tain, Sea-Shore and Inland Re- sorts of New England and the Provinces. Leave NEW Y<")RK. from Pier 2S. Nt.ith River, fr>ot of Murray Street, at .5:00 p. in., daily. Sundays included. Leave B(;)STON. from Old Colony Depot, eor. South and Kneeland Streets, at ():00 p. m. (Steamboat Express i. Sundays 7:00 p. m. A/i)iex Connertioti to and f rota Brookbjn CDuf Jersey City. Only 49 Miles of Rail Between New York and Boston. No Night Changes. ' Trains equipped with the "' Westiaghouse Air Brake and Miller Platform." Passengei's by this route have a fi'll nioht's rest on Palatial Steamers, reac'iiug New York or Boston at a seasonable hour in the morning, and in tiuie for early connections for points beyond. No intermediate landings between New York and Fall River after June 2(3th. ^SW '^^''■^■-■^"i' ■■ -Uw-V.''. . mi■^^^:'CU■i■.'% Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, emljraces Boston proper, East Boston, South Boston. Roxburv, West Rox- bury, Brighton, Charleston and Dorchester. Boston proper, or old Boston, was very uneven in surface, and originally presenting three hills. Bacon, Copjys. and Fort., the former of which is about 130 feet above the sea. The Indian name of this i)eninsula was Shawmut, meaninj; *' Sweet Waters." A narrow strip of land called the - Xeck."" joined the peninsula to the main land ; this neck was for- merly oversowed by the tide, but has been filled in and widened, and is now thickly built upon. I'last Boston oc cupies the West portion of xXoodle's or Maverick's Island. Here is the deepest water of the harbor, and here the ocean steamers chiefly lie. The wharf now used by the Cuijard steamers is 1,000 feet long. South Boston extends about two miles along the South side of the harbor, an arm of which separates it from Boston proper. The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. John Blackstone, supposed to have been an Episcopal clergyman, and to have arrived in 1623. Here he lived until 1630. when John Winthrop (afterward the first Goxernor of Massa- cusetts) came across the ri\er from C'harlestown, wher(^ he had dwelt with some fellow emigrants for a sliort time. About 1635 Mr. Blackstone sold his (^laim to the now }jo]j- ulous peninsula for ^30. and removed to Rhode Island. The first church was built in 1632 ; the first wharf in 1673. Four years later a post-master was appointed, and in 1704 (April 24th) the first newspaper, called ilie Boston Xoios Letter, \\3i?> published. The " Boston Massacre" hap])ened March 5, 1770, when three persons were killed and five wounded by the fire of the soldier}-. In 1773 ihe tea was - !'!i 154 destroyed in the harbor, and Boston bore a conspicuous l)art in the oi)ening scenes of the Revohition. The city was incorjiorated in 1822, with a population of 45,000. which had increased to 136,881 in 1850, to 177,850 in i860, and 250,526 in 1870. By the recent annexation of the suburbs of Brighton, Charlestown, W Roxbury, etc., the population has been increased to 341,919, (in February, 1876). Population 362,876 in 1880. On the 9th of November, 1872, one of the most terrible conllagrations ever known in the United States swept away the principal business portion of Boston. The fire broke out on Satur- day evening, and continued until noon on the following day, when it was brought under control, but again l)roke fortli in consequence of an explosion of gas, about mid- night, and raged until 7 o'clock Monday morning. The district burnt over, extended from Summer and Bedford street on the south, to near State street on the north, and from Washington street east to the harbor. About 800 of the finest buildings in the city were destroyed, causing a loss of $80,000,000. OBJECTS OF AN'^IQUARIAN INTEREST. Among " buildings with a history," the most interesting in the United States, next to Independence Hall, in Phila- delphia, is Faneuil Hall. The famous edifice, the " cradle of liberty." is in Dock Square, which also has an historical fame because of the meetings of the Revolutionary patriots that was held there. The building was erected in 1742. by Peter Fanueil, a Hugenot merchant, and by him pre- sented to the town. Its oriorinal dimensions were 100 bv 40 feet. Destroyed by fire in 1761, it was rebuilt in 1763. d:) and enlarged to its present dimensions in 1805. A i'lill length portrait of the founder, together with the pictures of Washington, by Stuart, of Webster, by Healey, of Samuel Adams, l^y Copeley, and portraits of JoJni (^uinry Adams, Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, and (ro\crnor Andrew, adorn the walls. 'I'he basement of the hall is a market. The old State House, in Washington street, at the head of State street, was erected in 174S, and was for half a cen- tury the seat of the " Great and General Court of Massa- chusetts," being the building of which such frequent men- tion is made in revolutionary annals. It has long been given up to business purposes, the interior having been completely remodeled, and the edifice surmounted by a roof which has wholly destroyed the quaint effect of the original architecture. Christ Church (f4)iscopal;. in Salem street* near Copp's Hill, is the oldest church in the city, having been erected in 1722. It has a lofty steeple, and in the tower is a fine chime of bells. The Old South Church, corner of Washington and Milk streets, is an object of much interest, it is of brick, and was built in 1729, on rhe site where the first edifice of the society had stood since 1669. The church was used as a place of meeting by the heroes of '76, and during the British occupation of the city, was -'^ed as a place for cavalry-drill. It barely escaped the flames m the great fire. The Old South Society having erected anew place of worship on Boylston street, near the Hotel Brunswick, the old building was offered for sale, when a patriotic efi"ort among the people originated a sub- scription for the purpose of raising funds to secure its pre- servation. King's Chapel v^'nitarian). corner Tremont and School streets, was founded in i6, not forgetting to mention The - Phat Boy's" Historical Delineations as a guide for hotel, and all points of interest connects «.;th the trip. I will now lift my hat to the tourist and others who have made the trip, and bi,l them a tempo.arv tare- well Hoping to see, ne.xt vacation, yourself and fnen.ls i only say ' he I __ —-^ — _- aa.a;a.>^ 'f' RJdmm. «p ^^ 164 (D. S. IjMB/lLL 4 i ROCHESTER, N. Y. /iDSolufcly • jl^upc • fe^iqarcffcs. 20v0 MILLIONS SOLD DURING THE YEAR 1883. 4K^2fI3^'^> 4W^lKl- -^i^t-lS^D^ 4O'l:0^ 4#ei^p^ THE POPULAR SMOKING TOBACCOS. ^PEERLESS FIHE-CUT.3fe^ SOLI) BV ALL DEALERS. ^« \ For Comfort, Sifstj and Cosmieacs cbooss ii Trmling, East or West. THE CENTRAL VERMONT I nmnnw iW 4' M t I TaW GE| 33^^^ A no50 .B125 Thp Fh^t "boy'r aeli nei^t ' ons of the St. Lawrence r'ver q.nd its 7^aMlti 7 ^3^Z^ 'i tl a| J., * m