IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) LO I.I m 1^ fe IIIIIM ^ m If m M 2.2 12.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 << 6" — ► ^^# ^ ^7;. ,%. ^a °^ sTk '/ /A Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-450 J 4^ #/' i/j \ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checlced below. U D D D D □ □ Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur Covers damaged/ Couverture endommag6e Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^e et/ou peliicui^e Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque Coloured maps/ Cartes giographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or biacic)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bieue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur Bound with other material/ Reiii avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge intirieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 fiimtes. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmentaires; L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sent peut-dtre uniques du point de vue bibliographique. qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite. ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage sont indiquis ci-dessous. I I Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur Pages damaged/ Pages endommagdes □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaur^es et/ou peilicuides V"^ Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ ' I Pages decolor^es, tacheties ou piqu6es □Pagas detached/ Pagijs d6tach6es Showthroughy Transparence Quality of prir Quality indgale de Timpression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du materiel suppl6mentaire Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible I n^ Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ I I includes supplementary material/ I [ Only edition available/ D Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 fiimies d nouveau de fagon A obtenir la meilleure image possible. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est film* au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X J 12X 16X aox 24X 28X 32X tails du odifier une mage The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Library of the Public Archives of Canada The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol —♦►(meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies. IVIaps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire film* fut reproduit grflce A la g6n4rosit6 de: La bibliothdque des Arch, ^es publiques du Canada Les imar>e8 suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grs'ttf soin, compte tenu de la condition et de I& Aett?t6 de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplalres orlginaux dont la couverture en papier est imprim^e sont film6s en commengant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la derni6re page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'iliustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplalres originaux sont fiimte en commen^ant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'iliustration et en terminant par la dernidra page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film68 d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clich6, 11 est film* d partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. errata to I pelure, an d n 32X 1 2 3 4 .5 6 Bting TO 1 VLi VI , I 'imrrr^^^^^mfmrmif^ii^nmmm mmmmm mmmm^m M -aA S! W. SKETGtlES OF ..ODR' '• ..i '■ ■■■■' i,':- WESTERN Sa COAST KY ISA4G :C. MORRIS. Being an account, of bujr country /ram Stljdkn'sio)Boitn$Bayy in wi^ich is givenla description of its srenery, and the customs of the petpky with narratives of importance and iQcal iftier^st. , ^ TO KNOW OUR CQUI^TRY IS TO LOV^, HER MORE. ST. JOHITS, N.F. r bl Sms^ #i^aptSH#Biiii ife-u i 'I A >3 ,. >ej . -^-r* :n-:\K .....i.J!l\d ilw, .iJiiJi 'J ii ■iiM^^Mfim^t ■.■?.'^i:j'pt-'^» ■*•?**» ■ **^«^itt. TBEATXM HtLL, Ti. & E. ..>* »j!^ S. H. PEElf 7i. ehorjge Srm Wtat, (*CTWBKk QukEN AND WAU>EG1U«I «WBre> ST. mk% > > -> TTf-yift^ itn. m) or OUR WESTERN SEA COAST, BV ISAAC C. MORRIS. Seing un account of our country from St. Johfis to Bonne Bay, in which ts given n description of its scenery, and the customs of the ptopk, with narratives of importance and local interest. TO KNOW OUR COUNTRY IS TO LOVE HER MORE. Wm ST. JOHN'S, N.F. : PftlNTBD IV GSOKUi S. MIUJGAM» Jt., X d% I' Fntered according to the Act of the Legislature of Newfoundland, in the year 1893, by ISAAC C. MORRIS, At the Colonial Secretary's office, Newfoundland. n i893. by TO THE HON. JAMES J. ROGERSON, FRIEND OF MY EARLY LIFE, I DEDICATE THIS PAMPHLET, ON BEHALF OF THE INTERESTS OF MY COUNTRY, IN ALL THAT PERTAINS TO HER WELFARE, IN GOVERNMENT, TRADE AND COMMERCE. ISAAC C. MORRIS. If I have any politics, they are expressed in these pages ; and if I have any religion, it is here also. ■p»i AUTHORS STATEMENT. The last few chapters of this pamphlet were not thought on at first, but they all per- tain to us as a people, and it is hoped the reader will feel satisfied with them. It hay been all written on my own responsibility, and nothing is stated on which there has been a shadow of doubt. From my diary and memory it has been all composed, and no other book was opened on its behalf while writing. The reader will please bear in mind, when perusing the chapter on " elections," in which I speak of being at Trinity, that my visit there was persottal, and not official, and that it had nothing whatever to do with my western trip, on which this pamphlet is written. To Capt, Delaney and his chief officer, Mr. Lewis, I here tender my hearty thanks for the useful information they both gave me, from chart and land. INTRODUCTION. Every human being has before him some object. We live with t purpose, and as we aim, so will we strike. The same holds good with books. Like men, they ever increase, and then become worn out, and are laid aside. We have heard it said that there are too many people in the world. On this we express no opinion ; but sometimes think that there are too many books, half of which are unstudied and unread. And yet, with this fact of an over-stocked market, we venture to launch this pamphlet to receive perusal from the reading public. It has but one object, which is, perhaps, two-fold, viz., to create a greater interest in our " Island Home," by reminding ourselves that in addition to her history, she has scenery, and in addition to her scenery, she has also fertility. To learn this and occupy a leisure hour, is the purpose of this pamphlet. Comparatively few persons are privileged to travel and see for them- selves ; and it is with this thought that the following pages are placed in the market. There is no claim laid to greatness, but if our people can be influenced to think more of their land, then the writer will feel well repaid for having penned a diary, while visiting the quiet homes of outport life. The history of the Country has been well written by such men as Pedley, Howley, Harvey and Pilot ; and to fully understand their work, and appreciate its value, requires thought and study. The few incidents recorded in these pages may renew an interest in their productions, and thus all tend to advance the forward movement of \he land we love. The world its historyfhath, _ And Newfoundland is part thereof : And therefore hath some history, too, INDEX. 1 CHAPTER I- II- III- IV- V- VI VII- VIII- IX- X XI XII XIII XIV XV XVI XVII XVIII XIX XX XXI XXII XXIII XXIV- XXV- XXVI XXVII XXVIII PAGB. •The Start 7 -On Ship-board ; 9 -From St. John's to Placentia " 14 ■Placentia — A Passing Glance at Placentia Bay. — Burin 17 19 -Leaves from our Diary ■ 21 -Harbor Briton 23 -Tribute to our Fishermen 25 -From Harbour Briton to English Harbour 28 -More Diary Leaves ■ 3° -Little Bay, Rose Blanche and Channel 33 -Deserted I lomes 3^ -From Garnish to Burin 3^ -From Channel to Bay St. George, Bay of Islands and Bonne Bay 40 -Commerce and Trade 45 -Hidden Treasure 48 -Unfinished Churches 5* -Outport Roads * S3 -St. John's 56 — Ourselves 59 -Our Aged Fishermen 62 -Candidates versus Electors 65 -Fiction ^versus Fact 68 -As Others See Us 71 -Summary of Work Done 7^ -Additional Summary of Work Done 79 >""~v^onciusion in*.. • . • • > * • * . « ■ 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 « t < * « • 1 • 1 * * 1 . 1 « . * • . * • > 1 • • t • * 1 m • • 1 * • 1 1 m • • 01 CHAPTER I. THE START. Many of us know what it is to leave home for some unkrtown place. At such times various ideas crowd the mind, and we let oui /nights run on in forecast as to where we are going and what we will really ^ce. This is more especially the case with those who have not travellM far, and have but faint ideas of the great world in which they live. ( he familiarit) of travelling from town ro town, or place to place, takes from ti : traveller much of the novelty, and to n certain extent lessens his 'cnse of obser- vation, because he becomes so accustomed to change, that in the end, he passes almost unheedingiy by what in the beginning would have aroused his attention and called forth his enquiry. \ Between the commencing of a journey and the ending thereof, there is a great difference. From the former we look out in fancy on what we know not, nor have ever seen, from the latter we look back and sec from memory that which we have realized. One is prospective, the other retrospective. One was to be, the other has been. Our position now is that of the former; we are going where we have not before been, to engage in humane work, to stand before strange people, and strike a chord which must vibrate in years to come. In performing this work it is necessary to visit the harbors and homes of our fisher folk, and while doing so we see around us the scenes, and learn the facts recorded in these lines. They were future to us, now they are past, but still they are before us ; as one writer well says : " I looked for a past, And lo ! it had gone before." After little necessary preparations, the day has come to make a start, and the quiet seclusion of home life is left, to step out on the more troubled waters of public life. It is the first day of July. Our good ship is the Grand Lake, commanded by a crew worthy of their trusty position. It is one of those fine, clear summer days, which every one appreciates with mmmmmm i skfifcrfES OF OliR WESTER?^ SEA COAsf. complimentary remarks and smiling faces. We arc standing on the ship's deck when the shrill sound of the steam whistle screams in our ears, reminding us that the hour of starting has come. There is a stir on deck, and the passengers keep the ship, while their friends shake hands and step on shore. We have often thought and looked upon such a scene as this, remembering that some will not meet again for years, while others may never do so. But such is human life, and in coming and going, meeting and parting, we fill out its time, ever hastening to the end when the voyage shall be accomplished, and we drop anchor in the silence of the grave. But why this reverie ? We are on the start, with work before us to be accomplished. Our aim then will be to do it well, and thus prcve worthy of the mission placed in charge. Our ship now moves, her mighty engine throbs like some strong giant in a struggle. Her bow is turned, and 'neath the summer sun we glide from scenes familiar, realizing that for our work we have made " The Start." The calm seclusion of the quiet home we now have left. And stepped out in the ranks of public men ; Who, for their work, receive as part of pay The verdict of a slanderous tongue. 1! SkETCHES OF OUR \VESTERk SEA COAS^. CHAPTER II. ON SHIP -BOARD. Years have passed away since last we found ourselves a passenger on board a royal mail boat, when returning from a trip to the neighboring jprovince of Nova Scotia. Those who >\ore interested in that voyage have ong since been lost in life's daily bustle, and the intervening time has onstructed the bridge over which we have crossed to join our present ompany. We are all strangers to each other, therefore our first duty is to ook around and learn who are our fellow-passengers. In doing so we find mixed company, composed of men and women representing the various alls of life. From church and state, trade and commerce, home and chool. We are now fellow-travellers with a common interest in the ship's elfare, and are somewhat desirous to reach in safety our desired haven ; erefore the ship's speed is commented upon by all on board. In interest e are one, but diverse in recreation, ar.d though on the same ship there a world of difference in the experience of the passengers. As varied as e our faces, so also are our modes of occupation. Some play music, hile others respond in hearty song, some avail of the library, while others unge and sleep. Some play cards, whilj mostly ail indulge the pipe, and raw within their mouths its smoke, th^n puff it out because there is no ace for it within the man. But all are occupied and therefore happy, 'hile onward speeds our gallant ship; w'.th land and rock to starboard, and the port the broad Atlantic deep. The situations and surroundings esent ample opportunity for reflection on the part of those who are given observation. T.ie heaving sea, dotud here a.id there with ships like stant specks ; the passing flock of sea birds, now di^ " ig and again rising e a living cloud ; the rocks and islands all around our coast, with each own dark tale; the vaulted blue o'er he.d and murmuring deep beneath 1 give to any m m the food on which his mind can well improve, and (TT lO SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAsf. cause his soul to say, with David, in the Book : " All thy works praise l^hee, O Lord." Sea travelling becomes to most people a monotony ; but this can easily be broken by change which is not available in coach or railway. The discipline of the ship, the changing watch, the striking bell, the hissing steam pipes, the regularity of the meals — all connected into one, by social, mirthful laughter — results in making passenger life a little world within itself. With thesb surroundings, we let our thoughts run back to olden times, when colonization first began, and feel afresh the dreary voyages of those v.-lio left their homes and pioneered the lands we now enjoy. By this time we are fairly st'arted on our journey, A good beginning has been made, and as we talk to some on board about the work in hand, we begin to feel that with us beat the truest hearts, and for lis are the church's prayers. Yet some are cold, but all agree- that lasting good will be the result of temperance reform. ■Our ship speeds on, and we begin to learn, That Newfoundland much larger is Than we at 'first had thought. SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST. II CHAPTER III. FROM ST. JOHN'S TO PLACENTIA. It would be superfluous to say much about this part of our coast, as it is fairly well known by most of our people. It is the boundary line of the Peninsula of Avalon, including what is known as the Southern Shore. In the various harbors are to be found neat and comfortable homes, where women with their children dwell; while the bread-winner pushes off to seek the uncertain harvest of the sea. There are many pleasing features in these places to attract the stranger's attention, chiefest among which ranks the school-house, with not far off the church edifice — the latter being constructed on various styles of architecture, but somewhat alike in having spires pointing heaven-ward. The social and religious condition of our people are much the same the land over, so that when we see one place a fair conception of others can be formed. The settlements along this shore have been all built up by the rich fisheries of the past century. To look at them shows that some one has persevered and reaped a rich reward. Dwelling houses and stores have been erected at great cost and much labor, and the accumulations oi" the present indicate the prosperity of the past. But tiiere is an apparent change, for signs of decay are in many places visible, showing that further increase of population is almost impossible. The answer to the cause of this, is found by remembering, that the shore fishery which was once so [abundant in these parts of the ishnd, is now almost a thing of the past. Hence, the present state of trade, is so weak that it has hardly a pulse to indicate life, in comparison to the trade and fisheries of thirty years ago. Like other parts of our sea-coast, this too has its history, and stands [prominently foremost in the regorcls pf shipping disasters, Hm hav« 12 SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST. struck in storm and fog, some of the staunchest ships ever launched from British dockyards — from the richly-laden merchantman to the human- freighted passenger boat j from the majestic barque to the small schooner. From various ports on each side of ihe Atlantic, countless ships have sailed; and shaped their course for Cape Race light ; but having lost their reckoning they missed the mark, and stranding were swallowed up by angry waves and buried in oblivion. Some one has well said that our coast is a burial place of ships. We can remember some of these disasters ourselves, and while passing Mobile take an extra look at Great Island, the place where, about twelve years ago, the steamship Flavian struck, and was only floated off at great cost and skilful perseverance. Somewhat beyond this place, at the entry of Renews, is to be seen the island on which, three years ago, the disaster of the total loss of a Norwegian barque occurred, by running on it while under full sail ; result- ing in the loss of all the crew, numbering some eighteen men, with the exception of one young lad, who was rescued next day at great peril, by some daring fishermen of the place, who were afterwards rewarded with the sum of six dollars each as a memento of their bravery. The man who threw the rope to the lad while on the rock was* passenger with us to Renews, and from him these facts were learned in detail. Such heroism speaks volumes for the true nobility of our fishermen. These and other disasters effected homes far from Newfoundland, and while the great world forgets them, some one still ponders them. But we, too, have had our share in these tales of destruction —for some ships have foundered near the land they wished to make. Therefore, while writing of the disaster of Renews Island, we cannot pass over that of Renews Rock. It is of direct; local interest, having brought to homes in St. John's the sad knell of the; death-bell. We are familiar with the sight of ships coming and going, md, very little attention is paid to them outside of business circles. It is only, when some accident occurs that the public become concerned. It is now about cwenty-two years ago since the topsail schooner- Memmto, commanded by captain Auckendoc, left this place, with every prospect of all going well, but in a few hours after struck ^hia rock which yv