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SKETGtlES

OF ..ODR'

'• ..i '■ ■■■■'

i,':-

WESTERN Sa COAST

ISA4G :C. MORRIS.

Being an account, of bujr country /ram Stljdkn'sio)Boitn$Bayy in wi^ich
is givenla description of its srenery, and the customs of the petpky
with narratives of importance and iQcal iftier^st. ,

TO KNOW OUR CQUI^TRY IS TO LOV^, HER MORE.

ST. JOHITS, N.F. r

Sms^

#i^aptSH#Biiii

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TBEATXM HtLL, Ti. & E.

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S. H. PEElf

7i. ehorjge Srm Wtat,

(*CTWBKk QukEN AND WAU>EG1U«I «WBre>

ST. mk%

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TTf-yift^

itn.

or OUR

WESTERN SEA COAST,

ISAAC C. MORRIS.

Seing un account of our country from St. Johfis to Bonne Bay, in which

ts given n description of its scenery, and the customs of the ptopk,

with narratives of importance and local interest.

TO KNOW OUR COUNTRY IS TO LOVE HER MORE.

ST. JOHN'S, N.F. :

PftlNTBD IV GSOKUi S. MIUJGAM» Jt.,

Fntered according to the Act of the Legislature of Newfoundland, in the year 1893, by

ISAAC C. MORRIS,
At the Colonial Secretary's office, Newfoundland.

i893. by

TO THE
HON. JAMES J. ROGERSON,

FRIEND OF MY EARLY LIFE, I DEDICATE THIS PAMPHLET, ON BEHALF OF

THE INTERESTS OF MY COUNTRY, IN ALL THAT PERTAINS TO HER

WELFARE, IN GOVERNMENT, TRADE AND COMMERCE.

ISAAC C. MORRIS.

If I have any politics, they are expressed in these pages ; and if I have any religion,

it is here also.

■p»i

AUTHORS STATEMENT.

The last few chapters of this pamphlet were not thought on at first, but they all per-
tain to us as a people, and it is hoped the reader will feel satisfied with them. It hay
been all written on my own responsibility, and nothing is stated on which there has been
a shadow of doubt. From my diary and memory it has been all composed, and no other
book was opened on its behalf while writing. The reader will please bear in mind,
when perusing the chapter on " elections," in which I speak of being at Trinity, that my
visit there was persottal, and not official, and that it had nothing whatever to do with my
western trip, on which this pamphlet is written.

To Capt, Delaney and his chief officer, Mr. Lewis, I here tender my hearty thanks
for the useful information they both gave me, from chart and land.

INTRODUCTION.

Every human being has before him some object. We live with t
purpose, and as we aim, so will we strike. The same holds good with
books. Like men, they ever increase, and then become worn out, and are
laid aside. We have heard it said that there are too many people in the
world. On this we express no opinion ; but sometimes think that there are
too many books, half of which are unstudied and unread. And yet, with
this fact of an over-stocked market, we venture to launch this pamphlet to
receive perusal from the reading public.

It has but one object, which is, perhaps, two-fold, viz., to create a
greater interest in our " Island Home," by reminding ourselves that in
addition to her history, she has scenery, and in addition to her scenery,
she has also fertility. To learn this and occupy a leisure hour, is the
purpose of this pamphlet.

Comparatively few persons are privileged to travel and see for them-
selves ; and it is with this thought that the following pages are placed in
the market. There is no claim laid to greatness, but if our people can be
influenced to think more of their land, then the writer will feel well repaid
for having penned a diary, while visiting the quiet homes of outport life.
The history of the Country has been well written by such men as Pedley,
Howley, Harvey and Pilot ; and to fully understand their work, and
appreciate its value, requires thought and study.

The few incidents recorded in these pages may renew an interest in

their productions, and thus all tend to advance the forward movement of

\he land we love.

The world its historyfhath, _

And Newfoundland is part thereof :

And therefore hath some history, too,

INDEX.

CHAPTER

I-

II-

III-

IV-

V-

VII-

VIII-

IX-

XII

XIII

XIV

XVI

XVII

XVIII

XIX

XXI

XXII

XXIII

XXIV-

XXV-

XXVI

XXVII

XXVIII

PAGB.

•The Start 7

-On Ship-board ; 9

-From St. John's to Placentia "

■Placentia

— A Passing Glance at Placentia Bay.
— Burin

-Leaves from our Diary ■ 21

-Harbor Briton 23

-Tribute to our Fishermen 25

-From Harbour Briton to English Harbour 28

-More Diary Leaves ■ 3°

-Little Bay, Rose Blanche and Channel 33

-Deserted I lomes 3^

-From Garnish to Burin 3^

-From Channel to Bay St. George, Bay of Islands and Bonne Bay 40

-Commerce and Trade 45

-Hidden Treasure 48

-Unfinished Churches 5*

-Outport Roads * S3

-St. John's 56

— Ourselves 59

-Our Aged Fishermen 62

-Candidates versus Electors 65

-Fiction ^versus Fact 68

-As Others See Us 71

-Summary of Work Done 7^

-Additional Summary of Work Done 79

>""~v^onciusion in*.. • . • • > * • * . « ■ 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 « t < * « • 1 • 1 * * 1 . 1 « . * • . * • > 1 • • t • * 1 m • • 1 * • 1 1 m • • 01

CHAPTER I.

THE START.

Many of us know what it is to leave home for some unkrtown place.
At such times various ideas crowd the mind, and we let oui /nights run
on in forecast as to where we are going and what we will really ^ce. This
is more especially the case with those who have not travellM far, and have
but faint ideas of the great world in which they live. ( he familiarit) of
travelling from town ro town, or place to place, takes from ti : traveller
much of the novelty, and to n certain extent lessens his 'cnse of obser-
vation, because he becomes so accustomed to change, that in the end, he
passes almost unheedingiy by what in the beginning would have aroused
his attention and called forth his enquiry.

\ Between the commencing of a journey and the ending thereof, there
is a great difference. From the former we look out in fancy on what we
know not, nor have ever seen, from the latter we look back and sec from
memory that which we have realized. One is prospective, the other
retrospective. One was to be, the other has been. Our position now is
that of the former; we are going where we have not before been, to engage
in humane work, to stand before strange people, and strike a chord which
must vibrate in years to come. In performing this work it is necessary to
visit the harbors and homes of our fisher folk, and while doing so we see
around us the scenes, and learn the facts recorded in these lines. They
were future to us, now they are past, but still they are before us ; as one

writer well says :

" I looked for a past,
And lo ! it had gone before."

After little necessary preparations, the day has come to make a start,
and the quiet seclusion of home life is left, to step out on the more troubled
waters of public life. It is the first day of July. Our good ship is the
Grand Lake, commanded by a crew worthy of their trusty position. It is
one of those fine, clear summer days, which every one appreciates with

mmmmmm

skfifcrfES OF OliR WESTER?^ SEA COAsf.

complimentary remarks and smiling faces. We arc standing on the ship's
deck when the shrill sound of the steam whistle screams in our ears,
reminding us that the hour of starting has come. There is a stir on deck,
and the passengers keep the ship, while their friends shake hands and step
on shore. We have often thought and looked upon such a scene as this,
remembering that some will not meet again for years, while others may
never do so. But such is human life, and in coming and going, meeting
and parting, we fill out its time, ever hastening to the end when the
voyage shall be accomplished, and we drop anchor in the silence of the
grave.

But why this reverie ? We are on the start, with work before us to
be accomplished. Our aim then will be to do it well, and thus prcve
worthy of the mission placed in charge. Our ship now moves, her mighty
engine throbs like some strong giant in a struggle. Her bow is turned,
and 'neath the summer sun we glide from scenes familiar, realizing that for
our work we have made " The Start."

The calm seclusion of the quiet home we now have left.
And stepped out in the ranks of public men ;
Who, for their work, receive as part of pay
The verdict of a slanderous tongue.

SkETCHES OF OUR \VESTERk SEA COAS^.

CHAPTER II.

ON SHIP -BOARD.

Years have passed away since last we found ourselves a passenger on

board a royal mail boat, when returning from a trip to the neighboring

jprovince of Nova Scotia. Those who >\ore interested in that voyage have

ong since been lost in life's daily bustle, and the intervening time has

onstructed the bridge over which we have crossed to join our present

ompany. We are all strangers to each other, therefore our first duty is to

ook around and learn who are our fellow-passengers. In doing so we find

mixed company, composed of men and women representing the various

alls of life. From church and state, trade and commerce, home and

chool. We are now fellow-travellers with a common interest in the ship's

elfare, and are somewhat desirous to reach in safety our desired haven ;

erefore the ship's speed is commented upon by all on board. In interest

e are one, but diverse in recreation, ar.d though on the same ship there

a world of difference in the experience of the passengers. As varied as

e our faces, so also are our modes of occupation. Some play music,

hile others respond in hearty song, some avail of the library, while others

unge and sleep. Some play cards, whilj mostly ail indulge the pipe, and

raw within their mouths its smoke, th^n puff it out because there is no

ace for it within the man. But all are occupied and therefore happy,

'hile onward speeds our gallant ship; w'.th land and rock to starboard, and

the port the broad Atlantic deep. The situations and surroundings

esent ample opportunity for reflection on the part of those who are given

observation. T.ie heaving sea, dotud here a.id there with ships like

stant specks ; the passing flock of sea birds, now di^ " ig and again rising

e a living cloud ; the rocks and islands all around our coast, with each

own dark tale; the vaulted blue o'er he.d and murmuring deep beneath

1 give to any m m the food on which his mind can well improve, and

(TT

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAsf.

cause his soul to say, with David, in the Book : " All thy works praise
l^hee, O Lord." Sea travelling becomes to most people a monotony ; but
this can easily be broken by change which is not available in coach or
railway. The discipline of the ship, the changing watch, the striking bell,
the hissing steam pipes, the regularity of the meals — all connected into
one, by social, mirthful laughter — results in making passenger life a little
world within itself. With thesb surroundings, we let our thoughts run
back to olden times, when colonization first began, and feel afresh the
dreary voyages of those v.-lio left their homes and pioneered the lands we
now enjoy. By this time we are fairly st'arted on our journey, A good
beginning has been made, and as we talk to some on board about the
work in hand, we begin to feel that with us beat the truest hearts, and for
lis are the church's prayers. Yet some are cold, but all agree- that lasting
good will be the result of temperance reform.

■Our ship speeds on, and we begin to learn,
That Newfoundland much larger is
Than we at 'first had thought.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER III.

FROM ST. JOHN'S TO PLACENTIA.

It would be superfluous to say much about this part of our coast, as
it is fairly well known by most of our people. It is the boundary line of
the Peninsula of Avalon, including what is known as the Southern Shore.
In the various harbors are to be found neat and comfortable homes, where
women with their children dwell; while the bread-winner pushes off to seek
the uncertain harvest of the sea. There are many pleasing features in
these places to attract the stranger's attention, chiefest among which ranks
the school-house, with not far off the church edifice — the latter being
constructed on various styles of architecture, but somewhat alike in having
spires pointing heaven-ward. The social and religious condition of our
people are much the same the land over, so that when we see one place a
fair conception of others can be formed.

The settlements along this shore have been all built up by the rich
fisheries of the past century. To look at them shows that some one has
persevered and reaped a rich reward. Dwelling houses and stores have
been erected at great cost and much labor, and the accumulations oi" the
present indicate the prosperity of the past. But tiiere is an apparent
change, for signs of decay are in many places visible, showing that further
increase of population is almost impossible. The answer to the cause of
this, is found by remembering, that the shore fishery which was once so
[abundant in these parts of the ishnd, is now almost a thing of the past.
Hence, the present state of trade, is so weak that it has hardly a pulse to
indicate life, in comparison to the trade and fisheries of thirty years ago.

Like other parts of our sea-coast, this too has its history, and stands
[prominently foremost in the regorcls pf shipping disasters, Hm hav«

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

struck in storm and fog, some of the staunchest ships ever launched from
British dockyards — from the richly-laden merchantman to the human-
freighted passenger boat j from the majestic barque to the small schooner.
From various ports on each side of ihe Atlantic, countless ships have
sailed; and shaped their course for Cape Race light ; but having lost their
reckoning they missed the mark, and stranding were swallowed up by
angry waves and buried in oblivion. Some one has well said that our
coast is a burial place of ships. We can remember some of these disasters
ourselves, and while passing Mobile take an extra look at Great Island,
the place where, about twelve years ago, the steamship Flavian struck,
and was only floated off at great cost and skilful perseverance.

Somewhat beyond this place, at the entry of Renews, is to be seen
the island on which, three years ago, the disaster of the total loss of a
Norwegian barque occurred, by running on it while under full sail ; result-
ing in the loss of all the crew, numbering some eighteen men, with the
exception of one young lad, who was rescued next day at great peril, by
some daring fishermen of the place, who were afterwards rewarded with
the sum of six dollars each as a memento of their bravery. The man who
threw the rope to the lad while on the rock was* passenger with us to
Renews, and from him these facts were learned in detail. Such heroism
speaks volumes for the true nobility of our fishermen. These and other
disasters effected homes far from Newfoundland, and while the great world
forgets them, some one still ponders them. But we, too, have had our
share in these tales of destruction —for some ships have foundered near
the land they wished to make. Therefore, while writing of the disaster of
Renews Island, we cannot pass over that of Renews Rock. It is of direct;
local interest, having brought to homes in St. John's the sad knell of the;
death-bell. We are familiar with the sight of ships coming and going, md,
very little attention is paid to them outside of business circles. It is only,
when some accident occurs that the public become concerned.

It is now about cwenty-two years ago since the topsail schooner-
Memmto, commanded by captain Auckendoc, left this place, with every
prospect of all going well, but in a few hours after struck ^hia rock which
yv<t now look upon, No one escaped to tell the tale» ^nd its w^ystery is.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

lunched from
the human-
lall schooner.
s ships have
nng lost their
lowed up by
said that our
hese disasters
Great Island,
^avian struck,

is to be seen
otal loss of a
1 sail ; result-
Hen, with the
;reat peril, by
ewarded with
rhe man who
tx with us to
Such heroism
ese and other
le great world
have had our
undered near
he disaster of
[t is of direct;
I knell of the;
id going, anc^
s. It is only.
I.

lail schooner-
e, with every
Is rock which
its K^stery is.

yet unsolved. We knew some of that crew, and as the scene of their loss
is passed by we bear in mind that we were then but boys, and thought not
much of their tragic end, but now that manhood's duties fall upon us, we
look at the spot with a sort of revived sorrow. They lie with many others
in the caverns of the deep, but are within reach of the trumpet call, at the
sound of which the sea shall give up her dead. With these observations
we close this chapter, and endeavor to tell our tale in few words ;

We leave St. John's behind,
And pass the intervening coast 5
To take a closer view
Of La Plasiance.

■■H

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST,

ill

CHAPTER IV.

PLACENTIA.

We have all heard more or less of Placentia. Our Christmas numbers
have described it in word, and pictuied it in plate, and as we look at it
from our ship's deck, in the stillness of the Sabbath morning, we say Amen
to all the past. We knew it to be historic, but now see it is also romantic
Its fine houses, ancient church, and beautiful large chapel, (R.C.) present
such a picture as well becomes the stillness of the sacred morn. Placentia
presents a majestic scene — with everywhere a picturesque background,
which, to look upon it, is romantic in the extreme. Many of its natural
surroundings are worthy of note and observation. Among its own local
objects of interest is the Ijeautiful beach, j:)resenting a wavey appearance,
and composed of round and oval stoves in myriad numbers. Here stood
at an earlier period one of the French barracks, which has long ago fallen
to the ground, leaving as the only mark of existence the mounds which
have grown over its foundation walls.

Next in local interest may be mentioned the deep inland arms, run-
ning in op[)osite directions, and lending the appearance of scenetic beauty.
The entrance is somewhat narrow, and therefore the tide in rising and
falling is seen to good advantage, as it rusbos along with great rapidity.
To stand on either side of the harbor and •^itch these waters, almost
madly rushing on to the mighty sea for six hours, then turning in their
course and as rapidly rushing back, would alone be worth a visit to this
place. But there are other objects of interest for the observant visitor of
a still more im])ortant nature, as well as being of historic character. We
have trodden the great level beach, and looking across the water from it,
we see the memorable mountain height, known as Castle Hill, and
renowned as being the site on which once stood, in bold defiance to the
enemy, the stronghold called Fort Loiiis. This, like all other marks o(

SkKTCIlKs OF OUR WKS'lERN SI'iA COAST.

numbers

3ok at it

say Amen

romantic

I present

Placentia

kground,

ts natural

own local

)earance,

ere stood

igo fallen

ids which

rms, run-
beauty,
sing and
rapidity,
almost
^ in their
it to this
visitor of
er. We
from it,
lill, and
e to the
marks oC

French occu|')ation, has also fallen into decay, the foundation walls being
the only portion now remaining. 'I'he masonry shows them to haVe been
well and substantially built; and as one stap.ds by and muses cif their past,
the imagination lingers awhilt; with the men whr") built them, and from
these heights stood watch l)y night and day. 'I'his gigantic work of the
past now lies in ruin ; the voice of command is no more heard, the form
of drilled and disciplined men no more .seen. It is all of the past, its day
of glory o'er, and nature's music oncj more sings its requien-, undisturbed
by human intrusion. I )ismantled are its mighty guns, having long ceased
to sound forth their dismal boom of destruction, they now find a last rest-
ing place on the hillside, wliere once they reigned in wat-like terror. From
this elevation a very good view of F!at;entia can be had, and the visitor
should not leave the place without climbing the height of Castle Hill'.

'J'he next place of importance -to the stranger is the church, at once
presenting a picture^ both ancient and c[uaint. This building, is the oldest
in the colony — it being constructed in England and brought out for
erection on its present site. But very little of the original building now
i^emaihs, as repairs have been effected at different times to such an extent,
ais to leave nothifig of the forrrter: It-'fe said that the' pulpit is the only
part of the original structure which" was brought from England by His
Royal Highness Prince William, It is of the old style, and' as we stood in
it we tried to imagin'e, who were the preachers of its day, and where the
people to \vhom they preached. The answer to th'e^e musings is found on
the spot, where around the old building stand and lie the tombstones,
marking the resting place of these people's bodies, their souls having
returned to God who gave them. -(£'rc-/(?i-). - •

These stones date back into centuries, the oldest being over two
hundred years erected. It is now lying on the floor of the old church,
and in addition to its inscription has chisled on it the most important facts
of our Lord's life. For His birth there is the star and manger ; for His
death the cross and ladder, spear and nails, with other emblems of His
public ministry. W'e had heard and read of this stone from different
authors, and had made up our minds to go and see it for ourselves if ever
an opportunity offered.

Prince William not only gave the church but also the books for public
worship. These are very large, consisting of Bible, prayer book and

•'

fiKfcTCHES OF OtlR WfeSTERk sMa COASt*.

!l!ii

psalter. They show the best of cure, and are in a perfect state of preser-
vation. These books can be seen at the residence of Mr. Albert Rradshaw,
who proved very obliging to the inquiring visitors. In addition to the
books, are the silver plates, or communion service; also presented by His
Royal Highness. They are genuine in quality, and bear the following
inscription ; Prci-cnlcd to the Protestant Church of '* Placentia, by His
Royal Highness Prince William, 1787." We were informed that some of
the church authorities wished this service to be transferred to St. John's,
but a difference of opinion existed about the matter, and as they were
presented to Placentia it was decided to leave them there. It may be
here added, that the psalter was the present of a private gentleman, of the
same date, whose name we have forgotten, and having lost our note book
failed to recall. Among the names of Plancentia, those of O'Reilly,
Bradshavv and Croucher; stand foremost. They rank a.nong its first
English inhabitants, and still stand in the front for church and state.
They are open, frank people, ever ready to extend the right hand of
brotherhood to the passing stranger.

Before closing this chapter we deem it advisable to remind the reader
that Placentia is well worth a visit, and should he possess the gift of pencil
or brush, he will there find more scenes than one worthy of his genius. It
has had its place in the national history of the country. It has done
its part in the prosecution of the fisheries : but there is yet a brighter
future for it. If what we have heard of its hidden mineral resources be
near correct, then the day must come when Placentia will resound with
the hum of busy men, turning to profit invested capital. Already the
whistle of the iron horse is heard, therefore we hope that soon our picture
will be realized.

Historic in the past, we love it still ;

But nature's charm is greater than its history.

Sketches of our wMstern sea coast.

of preser-
Rradshaw,
on to the
ed by His

following
ia, by His
t some of
St. John's,

they were
It may be
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note book
f O'Reilly,
g its first
and state.
it hand of

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jenius. It

has done
a brighter
sources be

ound with
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ur picture

CHAPTER V.

A PASSING GLANCE AT PLACENTIA BAY.

From Placentia our course leads us to Burin. But between these
places is the bay itself, part of which the writer visited on his return trip.
On this occasion V e find ourselves on board the s.s. Alert, under command
of Captain Bonia. New passengers are here met with, and a passing
acquaintance Soon formed.

In cruising this bay, many small, secluded places are visited, and the
entry of the little steamer is certainly an event satisfactory to the people.
A stranger looking at these hamlets from his ship's deck cannot but pay a
tribute to the memory of the men and women who first settled in these
out-of-the-way places. Even now they are out of the way ; but how much
more so mus«^ they have been before the introduction of steam into our
public mail service.

Such names as Gderin, Presque, Bain Harbor, Beau Bois, Flat
Islands and Merasheen, are familiar to the travelling public. But there is
one name that always aroused our curiosity, even to such a degree as to
cause us to feel like paying a visit to the spot. Some one has said " that
there is a power in a name ; " and we sometimes think that a man's name
effects his character. Be this . as it may, we will not here digress to
speak of it.

From early life we had heard of Paradise in Placentia Bay. This
name being such as filled our minds with ideas of things heavenly, our
thoughts therefore led us to fancy that any place with such a name would
present a pleasing appearance. ^Ve expected to see something worthy the
name. But our conclusions were formed on a wrong basis ; for instead of
the name being indicative of its beauty, we soon learned that it was called
Paradise because it was a very hard place to get into. Still we wished to
see it. It was night-time when .this much-thought-of place was entered.
The passengers— like the virgins in the gospel parable— all slumbered and
slept. There was one pafssenger at least who intended to arise from his
slumbers when this place was reached, so that he may behold Paradise.
I "iiagine his feelings when — to use a nautical expression — on turning out

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA

COAsf.

at an early hour to enquire for this supposed beautiful place, he was gently

informed that the ship had been into it an hour before. He remarked to

the steward that he had long wished to see Paradise, thinking that from its

name it was some sort of a heaven. The steward began to smile, and

responded by saying, " that if heaven was not a better place than that, it

would be better to stay on board the s.s. Alert than go there."

This finished the Paradise business, at th"; same time remembering

that some years ago we had read of it from the pen of the late lather
Morris, who also described it as being thus named, owing to its difficult
entry. Some of our readers are undoubtedly acquainted with Placentia
Bay, and therefore a prolonged account would be unnecessary as well as
uninteresting.

Suffice it to say, that in all its harbors are to be seen the fruits of
industry and honest toil. Cut off as they are from the outside world, they
contain within themselves the marks of endurance, perseverance and taste.
We admire the stillness of these secluded spots, but still lean with greater
longing to the home of tie metropolis. Not that we think lightly of
nature's scenes, but we hare learned to be busy Christians, and therefore
rind plenty to do in city life. Yet our thoughts often run out to the men
who labor for the physical and spiritual welfare of the people. Their
duties are arduous, sometimes having to face blinding snowdrifts with an
unbroken path stretching out before them. By sea as well as land they
havj to travel, enduring the hardships and encountering the dangers of
these waters by day and night. Such men are found in most of our
outports, and their hardships can only be imagined by seeing the places
they have in their extensive missions. With such sacrifice and labor on
the behalf of the people, we sometimes think that these faithful servants of
God and humanity should be better paid than they really are. Very many
of our people have learned to enjoy a cheap Christianity, which leaves the
church property in debt and allows the pastor but a small salary. We
have met some who remind us of the man who stood up in a meeting to
give his experience, and did so by saying : " He could recommend
Christianity because he had tried it for two years, and it only cost him
forty cents."

The writer sometimes feels like doubling the salaries of every under-
paid clergymen of all denominations in the land ; but for the pre\ ent he
must rest satisfied with only feeling like it. But he may yet be rich enough
to do something practical for those men of God.

We have strayed from our starting point, but must close this chapter
and leave this bay, although a Paradise be in it, and hasten on to the
next place of importance.

"■ . Scattered our people are around our shores,

But still their wants are well supplied,
By men well fitted for such work,

e was gently
remarked to
that from its
o smile, and
than that, it

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

emembering

; late Father

its difficult
ith Placentia
iry as well as

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e world, they
ice and taste.

with greater
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e dangers of
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the places
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Very many
::h leaves the

salary. We
a meeting to

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nly cost him

every under-

le pre\ent he

rich enough

this chapter
en on to the

CHAPTER VI.

BURIN.

The entry to Burin is very fascinating. In every direction is to be
seen a hill top, reminding the beholder of so many conical-pointed tents.
He almost feels like asking, "Between which of these lies Burin?" But the
mystery is soon solved, for while the hill tops are viewed, the harbor, or
rather harbors of the place open out before him. It is a large place, but
greatly cut up by water, and is well adapted to the prosecution of the
fishery. Much of the business which in other places is done by land, has
to be done by water, hence the ferryman is often called into service. The
'and is very hilly and not at all suited to agricultural purposes. Never-
theless, there are some beautiful patches on which are some happy
homesteads, where peace and unity dwell. It was the writer's privilege to
be entertained at some of the hearths, where song and laughter, comfort
and plenty present a pleasing contrast to the steep and rugged heights of
the vicinity.

Large churches, with comfortable school houses, show that the people
are well provided with the means of religious and educational training.
In addition to these are also some commodious halls, where, from time to
time, the people meet to advocate the principles of their different societies.
Qn the whole. Burin presents a satisfactory condition ; and we can only
\yish them a continuation of their present success. Among its business
people may be mentioned such names as Bishop and Collins, Inkpen and
yigus, Brien and Morris, Brushett and Hollett, These, with a few others,
|iave always taken a propiiinent par^ in the general trade and shipping of
^he country.

While here we avail of the opportunity of climbing ^he height c^lle^
"Man-o*-War l\\\\. From this cnnincnce the whole grouu^l q^ii bp taken
in, for like its companion at n^centia, it gives the climbe?' the privilege of
"vievYing the Ij^ndscape o'ef," Qr\ (he top of this hill la ^ l^^rge fQ^K which

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

ii^i

bears on it the initials of many visitors. Some of them date well back, but
most of them are obliterated and greatly defaced. At the request of our
guide, Mr. John E. Collins, we followed in the line of our predecessors,
and scratched upon the stone our initials also.

Among other objects which attracted our attention while at Burin,
may be mentioned the relics of the s.s. Hercules. This boat, for a quarter
of a century, did useful service for the country and trade in general. Often
entering this very liarbor in triumph, 'neath flying flags and full steam
ahead. But all things sublunary have an end, and so the s.s. Hercules.
For years she conquered the elements of wind and water by the use of fire
under man's control. But in an unguarded moment the flame leaps
beyond its limits, and soon holds sway over the strong boat. In despair
the hope of saving her is abandoned, artd being beached, she burns to the
water's edge, where now lie stranded her keel and oaken bottom, bearing
amidships the iron walls of her engine room, her smoke-stack having fallen
on the shore. Her charred timbers reminded us of the end of human
life, when after battling the vicissitudes thereof, we too shall rest by the
wayside of life's great highway.

With the voyage o er,
And rest at last QLtain^d,

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER VII.

LEAVES FROM OUR DIARY.

Sunday, July 2nd. — The shrill sound of the steamer's whistle tells the
passengers that their place is on board, for mail boats, like time and tide,
wait on no man. At 3:20 p.m. we leave Burin and arrive at St. Lawrence
at 4.40. We have the privilege of going on shore in the mail boat and
shaking hands with some of the people. By looking round we notice that
things are on the decline, and in great need of resuscitation. The place
is pretty, and if any business could be worked whereby the people would
find employment, there is room and site for a handsome town or city.
But now things seem to be very dull and rather tend to retrograde than
advance. In two hours from here we arrived at I^maline, and for a few
minutes stand upon its shore. It is an attractive place : its long beaches
and level land, dotted around with the dwellings of the people, presents
such a view as pleases the eye and elevates the mind. Its present
prospects are not great, but a brighter future is hoped for. From this
place is to be seen in the distance the islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon,
memorable in past history, and still historic in relation to the Bait Act.
The mantle of night is now upon us, and at ten o'clock the state room is
sought for balmy sleep. During the night our ship called into Fortune
and Grand Bank — two of the most important centres of trade on the
western coast. Here are fine schools and buildings, and the independence
and business ability of its people are too well established to need any
remarks whatever.

Monday, July 3rd. — At an early hour we arrive at St. Jacques, and
receive a hearty welcome from such men as Burke, Clinton, Farrell, and
others. The homes of this harbor show independence and comfort to a
great degree. Among the various things which we notice is the very
excellent quality of building stone, being very easy of access by way of
quarrying. It is hoped by the people that this stone will yet add to the
trade and independence of the settlement,

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

Three miles distant from St. Jacques is Belloram, which presents to
the stranger a very crowded appearance. The houses are grouped together,
forming a compactness not often seen in outports. The harbor is formed
by a beach of circular sh. ' , Dn the extremity of which is erected a light
house or harbor light. Like many other parts of our land it has its own
history, and the marks of former occupation are here and there to be seen.
The name of Cluett is very familiar here, it being persons of this name
who first settled on its shores. Their home was formerly at Port-aux-
Basque, from which place they were driven by an American -privateer.
The country here is very hilly, but some good gardens are to be met with.
In that of Mr, Cluett we saw the best crop of gooseberries that had come
under our notice for many years, and also a very fine apple tree raised
from an apple seed.

One of the most interesting spots in small villages is that of the
cemetery, where lie buried the first settlers. Among the old storm-beaten
stones are to he found some of ancient date and wise inscription. From
one of these the following lines were copied, believing that they contained
in them a philosophy Worthy the wisdom of the ancients. This stone was
erected to the memery of Thomas Miller, who died of scinility :

" Man's strong desire of life wc daily see,

And few who view this place would change with me ;

Yet, serious reader tell me which is l)est.

The toilsome journey or the traveller's rest."

With these lines from the old tombstone we will close the chapter of
Leaves from our Diary.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER VIII.

HARBOR BRITON.

The name of Harbor Britain is familiar to business circles on both
sides of the Atlantic. Here is conducted the extensive trade of Newman
& Co., who for the greater part of this century have figured largely in the
prosecution of the fisheries. This firm can be ranked with the oldest
commercial names of Newfoundland. Their ships class among the
smartest of our fleet, and have filled an important position in our foreign
markets. The mercantile premises are very spacious, and are laid out
with great regularity. So far we have not seen any other that can compare
"'ith them for space and regularity. One glance shows that a most
extensive business was at one time carried on — while a second also shows
that curtailment has begun and is continuing. What the mainspring is to
a watch, so has the firm of Newman & Co. been to Harbor Briton,
including a large area of Fortune Bay. Hundreds of fishermen and their
families have dealt there, and outside of their yearly dealings with the firm,
they know very litt'e about the world. Some of these we have talked to,
and know that their interests are identical with this large concern, and we
fail to see what these people will do should this firm close down. They
are fishing folk, and have been born and trained to look to the sea for a
livelihood. They are into the system of yearly accounts to such an extent
that it is part of their nature, and almost part of their creed. Like many
spots along our shore, this has its scenery. Its high hills continuing far
in the distance; its deep, dark waters running far inland, enhanced by
nature's green foliage all around, present a picture worthy the painter's
canvas. Here, with other portions of the bay, the rugged hills are well
nigh enchanting, and as they are gazed upon, we begin to think how little
we really know of "This Newfoundland of Ours."

In connection with Harbor Briton may be mentioned Gaultois, as
being one in business relations. It is a small place, and one almost
wonders why people ever settled there. At the entry of the harbor is a

Hi )

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COASf.

very small light-house, from which projects a sort of tramway, for the
purpose of running out the light. This house is entered by very steep
steps leading from the cliff at the back. The water is also very deep, so
that our ship passed close by. On the hillside stands a flagstaff, with a
platform underneath, on which rest three cannons, pointing to the sea in
bold defiance. By the kindness of Mr. LeMercier we were taken over to
the oil house, where was moored a large whale, sixty-nine feet long, and
already undergoing the process of sculping. Here are to be seen whales*
jaw-bones and tail-bones in every direction, well whitened by the scorching
sun and bleaching winds of half a century. Our ship did not haul in, but ;
transhipped her freight to the trig Chanticleer. This vessel is one of the
oldest in the colony's trade, having been running for over fifty years, but
was last year condemned as being unseaworthy. In passing out from this
place is to be seen Hermitage Cove, where is a stone church, that was
prepared and fitted in England by the firm of Newman & Co., and then
brought out and erected on its present site. This bay and place is well
named, for everything in connection with it is indicative of a hermit's life.
AVhile passing in and out these places the weather was very fine, and
nature arrayed in her best garments. We saw everything to advantage
fl*om the sunny side of the situation. The waters were placid and still,
and the men in their frail boats seemed to have an easy time of it. But
in imagination we changed the scene, and saw these same waters rising
and swelling until they broke in maddened fury upon the shore. These
boats now safe we saw tossed and buffeted at the mercy of the elements.
Their crews we saw driven to their wit's end, and as we gazed, at this
awful contrast, we felt it our duty to join in the prayer for " all who go
down to the sea in ships and do business upon the great waters."

Frail arc the boats, but strong the hearts
Of those who in them fish.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERx\ SEA COAST.

CHAPTER IX.

TRIBUTE TO OUR FISHERMEN.

In coasting our sea shore the scenes vary, sometimes there is bold
rock, at others nature's green. Here we see the effects of volcanic eruption
and there level plains of rich alluvial soil. While the mainland presents
this appearance, the sea is somewhat difTerent, for everywhere are to be
seen the fishing boats, with their hardy crews, jigging for their watery
prize. Their calling is truly precarious. As we look at them from our
ship's deck we feel like helping them, arid wonder why so many have
clung to the rocks and barren spots so long, while near them lies land
untouched and uncultivated. While we. gaze our memory serves us : it
reminds us that years ago, when thinking on what. we now behold, we
took our pen and gave expression to th.^ following lines, entitled,

. , "our FISHERMEN." '.; '■

We who live, on Terra Firira,

Blest with warmth and rest and horn?, .

Little think upon our fishers
Tossed on ocean's angry foam.

While wc/sit around our fireside,

Safe and happy, dry and warm,
Oft forget our fellow landsmen,

Rocked. by every passing storm. .
We forget to think upon them,

Yea J iorget for them to pray,
While the"re toiling, toiling, toiling,

From their lovjcd one's far away.
Do we think how hard they labour,

While we rest at home in easj ;
They are rowing, pulling, trawling,

On the broad and heaving seas.
Ch ! if we could sometimes see them,

In their schooners, skiffs and yawls,
Heaving up their lengthy cables,

Putting out their many trawls.

si^ffcjit§ 6^ OUR wfesfkkN sea coAsi*.

We would say, " Well done our fishers,

Worthy of your country's thanks,
Bringing in to Terra Nova

Treasures from our stormy banks."

These lines are descriptive of the prosecution of our bank fisheries.
The following alludes to shore fishing : —

See the fisher on the ocean.

From his homestead far away,
Toiling on a world of motion,

Ere the brealdng dawn of day.

Early has he left his pillow,

Labouring while the oar he plies ;
Tossed and tossed by many a billow,

As he seeks his watery prize.

Watch him as the daylight brightenj.

When the night has passed away,
Arid the sun the heavens lightens

Into glorious, beauteous day.

And ybu'll find that hard he labours,

While he plies his hook arid line.
In the midst of many dangers.

Though o'er head the sun may shine.

Yes ! our fishers push out boldly, '

Often when the winds are high.
Shrilly whistling past them, coldly,

Telling that a storm is nigh:

Then looking round, he sees the billows,

Turning white with seething foarh —
He must then reef down his canvas,

Reel his lines and steer for home.

But before he gains the harbor,

Where his loved ones wait and pray.
He must face the oceari's dangers —

Sail across its angry spray

SKETCHES OF OUR .WESTERN SEA COAST.

Thus it is with all our fishers —
Toiling hard, and toiling late :

Working for an honest living,
Struggling hard against their fate.

Yet their work is truly noble,
Bringing treasures to the shore,

Giving to the world its dainties,
Every season, o'er and o'er.

Honour, then, unto our fishers,
Whose hardy toils are truly great ;

Honour to them, and a blessing
From the people, church and state.

May every voyage on which they enter.
Safe and good and prosperous be : '

May they all return in safety
From the dangers of the sea.

!28

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER X.

FROM HARBOUR BRITON TO ENGLISH HARBOUR.

In his lecture on Labrador, at the Star of the Sea Hall, Dr. Grenfel
stated, "that of all the harbours he had seen in connection with his
mission this side the water, not one equalled Saint John's for beauty of
entry."

We have not yet seen the Northern part of our island, and therefore
accept the doctor's statement. But we have seen Southern and Western
parts, and there beheld channels and entries far surpassing St. John's
narrows ; not in height so much as in nature's varied charms.

To go to Harbor Briton and stand near the harbor light, will present
a ^.ene not soon to he forgotten. From this situation, either behind or
oefore you, to the riglu or to the left, up to the vaulted heaven or down
at the deep, dark water, tlie beholder will see that the entry to this place
is romantic, in the extreme, while the opening of Jersey Harbor gives a
rp^ef wnich St. John's entry lacks.

The business of Jersey Harbor is all of the past.. The firm of the
same name having dwindled into itisignificance. At the entrance is to be
seen the marljlc monument, erected in memory of Mr. Chapman, the
gentleman v,ho for many years conducted the b isiness. We were not
given to understand that he was buried there ; but rather that this spot
was the place where he spent most of his leisure hours, at evening time
and on Sundavs,

It was while sailing out of this harbor, two years ago, that the Rev..
Mr Howe with his little daughter and boatman, were drowned, by the^
cap'-*, u "eir beat with a sudden squall. The land here is very high,,

^' ■ ■'• ^i<- '• -t direction would Strike with great force.

' • • *• "' -'"e journey is continued by land to I.ittle Bay, where a.
visit V',.... y.: ; ; he residence of Mr. Rose, After a short stay, a dory is.
boarded, and strong arms, at the impulse of willing hearts, pull us across
Bay de Lu to Combe's Cove. Here much kindness is shown by Mr.
Upward, C. of E. school teacher, and Miss Fiander^ with whose father
h? boarded, From here we push on to goxey, aad then ^ Mose AmbrQse

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

the

o be

the

not

and English Harbour. The scenery from Harbor Briton here is well
worthy the time of the tourist. There is something in these green slopes
which will yet benefit the people, if they look a little more to them. All
along the road are views and scenery of which we really know nothing.
But such places are for a purpose, and must one day resound with the
voices of merry children. Either some of this ground must be worked
or depopulation set in.

It is gratifying to notice that in all these places the people are turning
their attention to the land. At Harbour Briton and right along the line
to English Harbor, the tinkling of the bells tell us that cattle are grazing,
with nimble sheep not far off. Hence milk, with the best of fresh butter,
is laid before the visitor, while in the homes are to be seen revolving
spinning wheels. Little girls are busily engaged knitting stockings, etc.,
for their fathers and brothers, who are thus warmly clad for the hardships
of a fisherman's life. Milk and butter, with warm, thick imderclothing,
go a long way in making our outport home comfortable. These can be
obtained by our people becoming determined to have them, and exerting
themselves in the right direction. When sometimes looking at fishermen
taking their summer supplies, we have wondered why they would require
so much hosiery and cuffs, guernsies and caps, when so many of them
could be produced by home industry. The sooner our people begin to
pay attention to these apparently minor matters, the better will it be for
buyer and seller, and all concerned.

Wherever the writer has found the spinning wheel and butter churn,
he also found a certain amount of independence not elsewhere seen.
Things indicated that industry and economy divested life of that great
strain which many find in the struggle to make both ends meet. Therefore
these suggestions are thrown out for the common good of the common
people.

While walking at Harbor Briton, an old lady was met with whose
life had deep shadows cast upon it; she was eighty-five years of age, but
did not look it. Thirty-five years ago her hus^^and and Cwc sons were
all lost in the same schooner, during a storm at night. Two years ago
she was taken with la grippe, from which she still suffers, by having lost
her sense of taste.

Among other customs of the outjjorts we were especially struck with
that of boiling pots, and cooking out of doors It is an excellent idea for
those places, but would not do for town or city life.

In closing this chapter, it may be added that at the mouth of
English Harbour is an island, known as English Harbour Island, but its
real name is Lion Island, so called from its resemblance ♦'o the king of
beasts, crouched and ready to spring upon his prey. It is only from one
part of the harbour that this resemblance is apparent.

These islanr'g, with their crags and Jut^
Ave splin'.crj of lomu orash, lemoie,

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XI.

MORE LEAVES FROM OUR DIARY.

Burgeo^ Sunday, July gth. — At an early hour we arrive at Burgeo,
where we meet Mr. Edward Dicks, the trusty keeper of Boar Island light,
and Mr. Small, a long-standing business man of the place. From these
gentlemen a hearty welcome is given to the stranger, who, at the
discretion of their wise council, disembarks. Soon after this we find
ourselves enjoying home comforts at the residence of Mr. Dicks. To
us it is a novel scene. We are on an island, having no other inhabitant
than our host and hostess. As we look out from the window on the
surrounding ocean, dotted with many islands, we begin to wonder how
ships escape running upon them.

After breakfast a visit is paid to Rev. Mr. Field, C.E., from whom
hearty encouragement is received, and the use of his large school-hall for
public meeting. In the garden of the pastor's residence is a sun dial, by
which the correct time can be obtained by the shadow on its face. Among
the things we did not expect to see, this is one. It reminded us of what
we had read about the dials of Pharaoh in Egypt, and Ahaz in Jerusalem.

Tuesday, July nth. — By this time we are beginning to like Burgeo
and its fine people, for they display much that pertains to true greatness
and refined educated manners. The settlement is built on an island, or
rather islands, connected by bridges, reminding the visitor of "Venice,
the City of Isles." There is something about it which presents at every
turn a different view. The streets are somewhat regular, with here and
(here a lamp post, and a general tendency to city life. Cleanliness and
taste, combined with the very correct and distinct diction of the residents
in their language, give an air of satisfaction to all concerned.

In business life there are signs of decay. The various coves and
Stores speak of a past, when commerce was greater thin at pri»sont ; while
^^(* fine cott'!p;e dwoll'i gi \^\\X to the pluck u. t.l llvi^cst p,do of iIk;
people thumstlves,

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

Jurgeo
jatness
ind, or
'^enice,
every
Ire and
Iss and
sidents

is and
while

Burgeo shows that the people have been well taught and instructed
in religious and secular knowledge. It is here fhnt the R.cvcrciiu Ivir.
Cunningham has laboured for half a century in the interests of his church,
and the spiritual edification of his flock. He now rests from active
labour, but still attends the sanctuary in which he so long officiated, being
drawn there by willing hands in a small carriage.

The large, new day school, with hall overhead, is a comfortable
building, and well suited for its important purpose. We were privileged
to visit both departments of this school, and are satisfied with what we
saw. This institution is in charge of Mr. Summerton, assisted by Miss
Ash. Their scholars show good training, ati 1 are well advanced in the
various courses of common English study.

There is one serious drawback in Burgeo, and one that is very much
felt by the people. It is the great scarcity of water. It is the real
desideratum of the place. While walking through the street, before

leaving, we m:t a little boy named . His face showed honesty,

and his physical structure strength, but his clothes told the tale, which
marked him as one of poverty's many children. We had a talk to him,
and gazed right into his open, honest face. He told us he went fishing,
but did so without any boots. In such cases as this, words alone are
vain ; therefore he was taken to a shop, and presented with a pair of
strong boots, bearing in mind the words of the Master : " I was naked
and ye clothed me." — Matt.

Friday, July nth. — At 10.30 p.m., we leave Burgeo, and take passage
for Ramea in the schooner Is It, under command of Capt. Penny. After
a few hours of a whole-sail breeze, our destination is reached, where
comfortable lodings are provided by the kindness of the captain's brother.
Next morning we look around and find the harbour a perfect haven of
shelter. The trade is conducted by Messrs. Penny & Sons, whose large,
substantial stores and general premises, with four very fine vessels, show
that prosperity has attended their labours. The people get along fairly
well, and there seems to be a satisfactory state of affairs all around. There
is a large part of level land in the place, which would make an excellent
sheep run, and the wonder is, that ere this some one has not taken it up.

The islands of Ramea were visited by Cook — the great navigator.
The last observation he took on his southern trip was from one of these
islands, generally allowed to be the eastern one. He reports this place

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

I ii

and Burgeo as being both remarkable for scarcity of wood and water.
Though but a small hamlet, it has its history and loc^l news. The
residents are a very good looking people, possessing fine features and
ruddy complexions. Jn one home was met an old lady who had been
blessed with twelve chiklrjn, ten of whom she had buried. Among the dead
was a son, accidentally shot, and a daughter, accidentally drowned. This
daughter was married, and had a little boy, five years old. He went one
day on a pond near by, to slide. While doing so, he fell through the
ice, and his mother ran to his assistance, and also got in the water,
where they both .struggled, and finally sank, exhausted. The mother
was found at once, but the little b )y's body was not reqovered until the
ice had broken up, two months after.

In visiting the homes of our people, many such cases are met, and
the least we can do is to extend to them the expression of human
sympathy.

The Sabbath here is truly prim'tive and (juiet. A solemn stillness
reigns all around, broken only by t le ringing of thj Chapel bell, calling
the peo[)le to the house of jniyi. r, f(r mornng and evening devotions.
Comparing tiiis (juiet scene with the noise of town or city life, we almost
say within ourselves, that our choice would lead us to the small village
for real peaceful sanctity. Ikit we are in a busy world, and our place is
where work is to be done. ^ .

"Go out into the highways and hedges,

And compel them to conic in." — 77id Saviour.

CHAPTER XII.

LITTLE BAY, (LAPOILE), ROSE BLANCHE AND

CHANNEL.

There is much about Little Hay, naturally, which reminds one of
Rantem, in Trinity liay. It is a very small settlement, having fifteen
houses on the eastern side, and nine on the western side. There are also
some very substantial stores, giving the appearance of taste as well as
usefulness. Hut the place has reached its zenith, and unless some new-
industry open up, it will never increase. There are neither fields nor
gardens to be seen, and we were told that there was neither a horse nor
cow in the place. We don't doul^t the absence of the horse, but fancy
there ought to be a cow. Among the few noticeable *hings there, may be
mentioned the flagstaff, near the residence of Captain LeCellier. It is
after the style of a brigantine's mainmast, with main topmast. From the
mast-head projects a gaff, at the peak of which was flying the Union Jack,
in honour of the return of Miss LeCellier, who had been at school for
some time.

Along the hill top are to be seen the poles of the Telegraph Com-
pany : and somewhat beyond the stores lies stranded on the beach the
hulk of an old vessel called the Mary Geor^cina.

Our next port of call is Rose Blanche, or White Rock, as its French
indicates. It is, indeed, a hilly, rocky place, presenting little or no signs
of fertility, and for its future prospects one almost f^'ars to think. From
here we arrive at Channel, Fort aux Hastjue, where also rock and
ruggedness meet the eye. The scene is most desolate and barren. 'I'o
such an extent is this apparent that we feel the first settlers had but little
love of verdure or scenery. P>ut the)- must have had what, perhaps,
suited their calling better, vi/., brave hearts and daring courage. I'o
settle on such a bleak shore was to proclaim themselves heroic in the
extreme. These tiiree places depend wholly on the fishery. They have
their own busines-; firms : and such names as Steer, Ridout and LeCellier,
have done, and are still doing much, to keep the wheel of trade rjvolving.
Take these men an J iheir business from them, and life that is njw hard,
would ''■J^ ...i.-.^at ;!:!^v JiS ble.

SKETCHES OF OOR WESTER^ SEA COAST.

Port aux Basque is all rocks, and yet we fully believe that there is

unknown wealth in or about some of them. Everywhere around are to

be seen sparkling stones. On a fine day the very roads sparkle and

glisten with something that has been long unknown, but must be of value.

We have heard more than once of the gold quartz of Channel, but are not

versed enough in it to express an opinion. It is here that one of our

Western railways will have its terminus. The hoarse whistle of the

locomotive will shortly echo through its rocky regions, and who can tell

but soon may be unearthed the mineral so often talked of. It will require

a change of some magnitude to create a trade worthy of its hardy residents.

Port aux Basque is the coaling station of the Mail boat. »Vhile delaying

for this purpose, the time is occupied in visiting some of the houses. At

one house we met a little girl from Bay St. George, whose mother and

sister, aged fourteen, met a simple but tragic end. The time was Sunday

afternoon. The head of the house had gone to a friend's, in the distance,

and the girl went sliding on the hillside. It appears that when at the

summit of the hill, the line of the slide slipped from her hand. She failed

to catch it, and the slide slid rapidly down the hill, and far out on the ice.

The little girl made her complaint to her mother, who immediately went

off with her child, for the purpose of getting the slide. While off on the

ice, the wind sprang up off shore, and ere they got back, a channel

of water lay between theni and the land. There was no assistance at hand

to rescue them from their perilous position. Off they still drifted, and in

sight of their door, perished on the ice.

♦ ♦♦**♦♦*

Our good ship is about to leave Port aux Basque, when a message is
received by the captain to proceed to the stranded ship /oAn E. Sayers,
now in sight, outside the harbour. Soon we are near ro her, and while
our captain is on board, we take the glass and look at; htr. She is a large
ship, sixteen hundred tons register, and only seven yr ars old. Her cargo
consists of twenty-four hundred tons unrefined sugar, packed in strong
matting or baskets. Schooners and boats are around her like bees, and
everybody is busy saving the cargo.

This ship had been on a long voyage, and passed all the storms and
dangers of foreign waters. Soon had her crew hoped to anchor safely in
their desired haven, Montreal ; but thick fog surrounded them, the sun
was not seen for five days, and their reckoning was lost. In this uncer-
tainty she struck a hidden reef, and was for ever stopped from voyaging,

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

It seemed a pity, yea, almost a calamity, to thus see her, so perfect, and
yet so helpless, with every mast, yard, boom and spar on her, doomed to
founder on the rocks.

Her position reminded us of some fair lives we have known. They
were perfect in many ways, and bade fair for life's voyage; but the fogs and
mists of temptation gathered "around them, and, e'er they' knew it, they
were beyond the bounds of restraint, and became wrecked and lost forever.

Many strong ships have foundered on these bleak shores, while encir-
cled with dense fog. It is only about three years ago that the^ s. s. John
Knox, in sight of this very place, ran on shore one Sunday night, and
immediately sank, with her cargo of iron, and crew of twenty-nine men.
Most of whose bodies were recovered by the brave men of the place, and
received Christian burial. These graves are not far from the scene of
the disaster.

There are many and almost innumerable instances along our coast,
which are well worthy the pen of any writer. They tell of death and
suffering, of danger and peril. But our chapter is already long enough.
We will, therefore, pass on to other parts.

The shipwrecks and disasters of our land,
Have told on homes, the wide world o'er

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XIII.

U |[

DESERTED HOMES.

During th? trip, all the harbours of importance from St. John's to
bonne Bay have been visited. Each one has its leading men, and public,
buildings : with generally an aged veteran, who is looked upon as the pat-
riarch of the village. Strangers notice these things, more than residents.

We have already written the most that was seen, and the word fact
may be safely stamped on each chapter. No pains were spared to ascer-
tain the truth, and the writer feels satisfied as to the authenticity of his in.
forma nts. By careful enquiry, and calm observation, he learned and saw
what he has stated. Much more could be said, but he does not wish to
produce too great a volume. However, he cannot close his pamphlet with-
out making some remarks on the title of this chapter.

In every place he saw " Deserted Homes" : some of them good, sub-
stantial buildings, and others dilapidated and neglected. On enquiry, as
to where the owners and occupants had gon;:.', the answer was invariably
the same, and may be summariz_'d under the following headings : gone to
British Columbia ; gone to Manitoba ; gone to the States, and gone to St.
John's. Such were the answers as to tiie whereabouts of some of our
people. They had fairly comfortable homes, and also good health. But
there was a drawback : they found it hard to live, and pros[iects were look-
ing gloomy. The fisheries, from wliich they had formerly gained a liveli-
hood, were failing. They hadn't paid much attention to the ground, and
they became discouraged, and, what was still worse, discontented. In this
condition they heart f the great West, and in hopes of doing better, they
packed up all and left, sometimes sacrificing their homesteads for quarter

value. This is the history of scores, and unless some improvement takes
place in our fisheries, it will be the case with others. We often think of
our people who thus leave us. Many of them would prefer staying in their
own land, could they make' a living. Many of them would gladly return
were things brighter. 'I'hey say our country is dull. Hut we answer * No,'
ten thousand times, 'No'; not dull, Init misunderstood and unknown.

We have seen some of the conntry, not alone its bleak, barren rocks,
but also its agricultural patches, where deep, rich soil will give tq honest
labour thg rewarc] of honest living, • -

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

rocks,
honest

Our people are turning more than ever to the land, and are beginning
to find that encouraging results can be reaped therefrom. With this grow-
ing tendency, with strict economy on the part of our population, and the
fostering of our fisheries, we believe that Newfoundland's best days are
yet to come. The strain on our fisheries has been too great, but by the cul-
tivation of the land, this strain can be greatly alleviated.

This better state of things is daily dawning upon us, for in addition to
our agricultural resources, the great lumbering districts are also responding
to the woodsman's axe.

Some time ago, when thinking about our people, who were leaving us
in great numbers, we took our pen and wrote the following lines, entitled

"OUR EXODUS."

Why, oh why is this migration ?

Still increasing more and more ;
Why do men of every station

Hasten from their native land ?
Does the land refuse to own them,

Willing still to take their part :
Noted for their skilful labour,

Open hand and honest heart ?
Has the land that they call native

No more room for honest toil ?
Must her children ever wander,

Exiles on a foreign soil ?
Newfoundland ! we answer for thee :

'I'hou hast not a voice to tell
That thy sons can still find living

In the land they love so well.
Could thy sea-girt coast find language.

It would on the wanderers call,
And would point to where there's fortune.

Known, yet overlooked, by all.
It would say, " Turn inland, children,

" Work my mines and till my ground :
" Make my forests - long lain silent—

" With the woodman's axe resound.
•' Then you'll find in me there's labour

" For your willing hands to do :
" ' And the harvest will be greater,

" ' Though thtj labourers be few.' "

With these verses we will close our chapter on " Deserted Homes,"

Closed are the doors, and far away the hearts
That once within these homes did beat for joy.

But no\v towards tlvjni lo^|J^

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XIV.

FROM GARNISH TO BURIN.

AGRICULTURAL LAND.

At this juncture we will make a halt in our journey, for the purpose
of describing Garnish, and what we saw while walking from it to Burin.

When describing so many places it is somewhat diflficult to produce
variation, more especially when they are all seaport, and following the
same calling. However, we are not aiming at anything like classics, but
simply speaking of the land we love — the land which was so long thought
to be buried in fog, until able writers took up her cause, and told her in
her true condition.

In looking at Garnish we were reminded of school-days. In our his-
tory and geography, we had learned of the Lowlands of Holland, and,
somehow or other we saw a resemblance. Its clean, white houses, square
fields, and general level appearance, with at its back the waters of Fortune
Bay, now smoothe, but sometimes angry, presented a sort of rustic quietude
that sent us back to the dykes and wicker-work of Holland's lowlands.

Garnish is larger than was imagined. It is a pretty village by the sea-
side. The harbour is barred, and can only be entered at high tide. The
entrance is very narrow, and its long public pier, dilapidated to such an
extent, as to be a disgrace to any man calling himself the people's repre-
sentative — 1893. The people themselves are comfortable, having a good
stock of sheep and cattle, while the spinning-wheel forms one of the bles-
sings of the homestead. The most striking picture of the place is its long
and beautiful beaches. The colour of the stones, washed by century's
Storms, add greatly to the surroundings of the ▼illage,

The distance from Garnish to Burin is twenty-one miles. The water
runs in from Burin to a depth of five miles, and is known as Burin Bay
Arm, the terminus of which is called Salt Por.d. The Inrd hrre "s very
rich, and the scattered families derive much of their livelihood from it
This >vfts the longest journey of the whole trip, and the best description the

I
1-
s
t
li
s
a
s

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

sea-

rhe

)re-

)od

lles-

)ng

ry's

writer can' give of what he saw as he travelled, will be from his diary, as
follows :

Fridays Aug. 4th. — Left Garnish at 9 o'clock, a. m., in company with
Mr. Cluett as carrier. He proved a faithful man, and gave much informa-
tion as to the road and country which we were crossing. The road itself
is fairly good, and intersects many ponds and lakes, each adding its quota
to the beauty of these solitudes, as it rushes on to the sea. The country
is equal to any we have yet seen : yea, almost surpassing the rich, level
lands of Bay St. George. The great wonder is that somebody has not set-
tled on it, instead of settling on rocks and shoals, as many have done.
Scores and hundreds of acres of rich soil are here lying unoccupied. An
abundance of water adds greatly to their value, and a plow could almost
be worked in their present natural state. And yet our people continue to
leave us for other parts, not one particle better than where they are. These
levels present the idea we had of the western prairies, only on a smaller
scale. The road on which we travel is built of the upturned clay of the
district, and if all the land it passes through be of the same quality, then
we have no room to doubt the productiveness of these wastes. Had half
the attention been given to this land, or half the labour bestowed upon it,
that has been given to bad fisheries during the past twenty years, it would
be now a flourishing and self-supporting village, supplying the neighbouring
places with vegetables, milk and butter.

The reader may think that this statement is exaggerated, but it is not.
It only contains the opinion of the writer, who saw for himself, and formed
his opinions from what he saw, and still sustains these opinions. He has
seen a little of Nova Scotia, and part of Cape Breton, and fully believes
that Newfoundland can take her place with either of them. After travel-
ling for sixteen miles, a rest was taken at Salt Pond, where we decided to
stay until Monday. The Sabbath here was very quiet, being spent among
a people who knew not fashion, and in the place where nature reigns

supreme.

" God made the country, man the city ;
•• Which, therefore, should he l)est ?"

— Cotvper.

Iter

Jay

pry

it.

khe

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XV.

FROM CHANNEL TO BAY ST. GEORGE, BAY OF
ISLANDS AND BONNE BAY.

MORE DIARY LEAVES.

J Fedfiesd(jy, /ufy Jt/i.— Early at morning we leave Channel, and soon
pass Codroy, where the ship is stopped to land passengers. The appear-
ance of nature is here brighter, for all around, is to be seen the green garb
of verdure and vitality ; showing that the agricultural resources of this
locality have not been over-estimated. Off from the main land is a large
island, perfectly level, and giving the appearance of a beautiful field in
mid-ocean. Were such an island near St. John's, it would most assuredly
be the scene of many happy pic-nic parties. In every direction the
picture is pleasing to the eye, and hopeful for the future.

The weather is now foggy, and the ship's officers are cautiously
looking out for land ahead. It is an anxious time with them. They
stoop and peer into the distance, from the edge of the bridge, until their
anxiety is relieved by the welcome sight of land to starboard. This is the
outside of Sandy Point, Bay St. Oeorge. It is low land, and not easy of
discernment in thick, foggy weatlier. This point is soon rounded, when
the stores and dwellings of Hay St. (ieorge open to view. From the Point
into the public wharf is a long range of small fish stores, built with gables
to the water and stages before them. They are all of weather-beaten
colour, being much the same in size and numbering fifty-eighty or si.xty.

The harbour is large, but shoal, with sandy bottom, and running far
in to what is known as Sandy Bay. The point is all sand, fine, and of
yellow colou. Superior to the Brazilian sand brought up from South
America as ballast, by our vessels. Near the shore, lies half hurried, the
hull of a large Norwegian banjue, still partly laden with deal. She is
mostly under water, an<.l i'ar down in the sand. In the harbour lay the
new surveying steanur Gulnare. Everything here indicates life and
verdure. Tue cJianje from the parts hiiijeilo seen is extreme. The

J I

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

dreary, rocky desolation gives way to green swards of rich foliage. There
is a great future for this place. It cannot long lay silent and unproductive.
People are rushing out to the praries of the West, not knowing that such a
productive garden is nearer to them.

During our stay here we visited Mr. Neville's farm on the south side.
It is vastly extensive, and will undoubtedly become the model farm of the
West coast. A visit was also paid to Mr. LeReaux's garden, in which
were growing seventeen different kinds of vegetables, including beet, garlic,
onions and cucumbers. The ground is sandy, yet fertile, and the richest
and most luxuriant state of vegetation was to be seen, as refreshing showers
had just fallen.

Some of the roads here are very sandy, and therefore tiresome, but
while we tread them our steamer's whistle sounds in our ears, and we are
off for Bay of Islands. By this time the fog has lifted, thereby giving us
an opportunity of seeing still more of these hills and valleys, which are
destined to become the home and dwelling place of thousands of families.
As Cape St. George is rounded,and the ship turns into Bay of Islands, the
weather again changes, hiding from us the scenes we would like to behold.
Yet onward speeds our good ship, when suddenly there is an excitement
on board, caused by the lookout reporting a dead man in the water. The
ship's course is immediately altered, and a circle made, while the object is
eagerly watched from the deck by almost everybody on board. Soon we
are up to it, but the officers differ as to what it really is. Orders are given
to lower the boat. She is soon in the water, manned by brave and willing
hearts, in command of chief officer Lewis. They row to the object, and
by the careless way in which it is taken into the boat, we see it is not a
man. In a few minutes she is back, bearing with her a seaman's Cape
Ann hat. The ship is again brouglit to her proper course, with full speed
ahead, and log dragging astern. As night closes in, the fog also thickens,
and the frequent puffing of the whistle tells the passengers that careful and
cautious officers are feeling the anxiety of the moment.

As we watched our ship's boat out on the great depth of waters, we
imagined to ourselves how small and frail she was, and yet she dashed
o'er the waves at the strong stroke of daring men, seeking as they thought,
the body of some fallen fellow seaman.

Thursday, July 6th. — At 8 a.m., our ship has reached her birth at
Bay of Islands. This place is well named, there being ten or twelve

SkEtCriES OF OUR WESTER^ sEA COASt.

islands within its bounds. Woods' Island is nearest the harbour. It is
partly level and occupied by a few settlers. Judging from the ground
under cultivation, around the houses, the soil must be good. A sheep
run could be satisfactorily conducted here. It is large and near the main-
land. While this island is the most suitable for cultivation, it does not
rank with the others in majesty of scenery. They rise in bold relief, and
look like so many sentinels of some unseen army. Chiefest among them
stands the island of St. Gregory, with one side presenting a steep precipice,
and the opposite side a beautiful slope, covered in nature's garment of
living green. This eminence when viewed from the ship's deck, while
coming out the sound, is among the grandest we have seen on the coast.

Bay of Islands, proper, is situated in the Humber Sound. The land
seems fairly good, but the fields did not look to be cleared as well as had
been expected.

Once more our good ship b iij^, and we are ptissing on toward

Bonne Bay. In this vicinity is £ i •' he highest hnd of our country,
known as Blow-me-Down, and Mount St. Gregory. The whole line of
coast here is high, and well tenr I •' ^ron ^^'"■.ind." Bonne Bay Head is
next passed, and then we are ploughing its '.vacTs. This promontary
presents a bold front, as also does the whole land within the Bay. As we
still glide along, the houses come in view, and once more our ship's engines
rest, and propeller stops, while she is moored at the public wharf.

It is a fine, bright, summer evening, and there are six hoqrs at our
disposal. To use this time to the best advantage is now our aim. At
once the houses are visited. Men, women and children are reached, and
chords touched that must long vibrate. While thus engaged, a very
humble home was entered, where was met a girl of fourteen summers, who
by her clothing we knew to be very poor, but whose features proclaimed
beauty and goodness. Her name is Alice Ann E n.

With Bonne Bay we reach our terminus, and at eight o'clock, the
homeward journey is begun. Some lone hearts have been touched, and
we trust made happier. Many hands have been grasped in the cottage
homes by the sea side. As our ship moves, and we pass out from them,
there is somewhat of a sorrow at the thought, that there is so much room
for good to be accomplished in every place, and yet but few to do it. As
we steam out, our good captain has taken a schooner in tow, but the strain
is too great, and the line bursting, she is left behind, to beat her way out.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

Night's curtain is again falling upon us. We have beheld a glorious sun-
set, shedding its brilliant rays out into dark evening clouds. We have
heard of the glories of eastern skies, but sunset in the gulf — St. Lawrence
— would, we think equal them. As we write our diary, the ship's heart is
felt thfobbing like some mighty living thing. Around us are the waters of
St. Lawrence, now smooth, but often angry; for we remember crossing
them some twenty-seven years ago under circumstances far different from
the present.

Friday^ July ytk. — At an early hour we arrive at Bay of Islands and
haul in at Corner Brook, to take in logs at Mr. Fisher's mill. This mill is
large and is run by water power. There are about thirty-five men employed
altogether. The pier at the mill is very long, running out into the water
seven hundred feet, with a width of seventy feet. It is constructed of piles
at the sides, filled in with cuttings, chippings and sawdust from the mill.
To look at its length, one would suppose that it contained the accumu-
lations of many years, but such is not the case, for it has all accumulated
within the last five years. While at Corner Brook, we were privileged to
enter the home of Mr. Fisher, and receive much kindness from his son
and daughter.

Among the objects of interest at Bay of Islands we noticed the slip»
erected by the Rev. Mr. Curling, Church of England minister, and late of
that place. Its construction is the same as that formerly at Hoylestown,
and owned by Mr, John Woods, The purchase for hauling the yacht is a
large wheel, in horizontal position, with a capstan near by for the purpose
of leverage. Since the removal of Mr. Curling the slip has fallen into
disuse, and now shows signs of decay.

While viewing this slip I met Mr. Charles Parsons, the warden of St.
Mary's Church. From him I learned that the French Shore trouble was
more serious than we in St. John's imagine. He took me to the cemetery
close by, where rest the first inhabitants of Bay of Islands, In this quiet
spot rests one whom I had known in early life, and from whom I received
the first letter ever written me. Her tombstone tells that her little infant
son rests with her ; and the rich, long grass on her grave, indicates by its
growth and life, that one day, "The grave will yield up its prey, and the
dead in Christ shall first arise."

A visit to the Church is contemplated, but the sound of our well-
known whistle bids us jump on board, and we are off.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

On coming out the Humber, on the homeward trip, our attention is
again attracted by the beauty of the various inlands. The one which here
strikes us as most commanding, is Wee Ball, or Guernsey Island. At the
entry of the Sound is Friar Point,— a rock about forty-seven feet high,
and giving the appearance of one of this Order, with cloak and hat, in the
attitude of devotion. Next to this is South Head, presenting a very bold
front, and rising almost perpendicular to a height of one thousand two-
hundred and ten feet. A beach is next passed, when Devil Head is
reached, which is also bold in appearance, surpassing its neighbour in
loftiness by two-hundred and five feet. The following incident about this
Head may, perhaps, be interesting to the reader :

It is related, that some forty or more years ago, when French fishing
vessels were more numerous in these parts than at present, that a boat
returned to its ship with a man short. His mate was questioned and
closely examined, and being found or suspected guilty of some foul play,
was confined. Before the voyage wound up, he made his escape to land,
but was immediately chased. In his extremity he climbed this mountain
height of fourteen hundred and fifteen feet. But he was hotly pursued,
and escape was impossible. Rather than be captured he jumped into the
sea, and was never seen afterwards. Even the fishermen below did not
see him fall into the water. It was, therefore, generally decided that he
must have struck some projecting, ragged rock, and found in its crevice
an open and perhaps living tomb.

Continuing the voyage, we pass Red Island, which in shape is very

like H.M.S. Blake. It is about four hundred feet high, and covered with

rich grass. The North side has the appearance of one huge sheet of rusty

iron. It is annually visited by the French, who prosecute the fisheries
from the Southern side, where the land is low. The main land opposite
this island is low and level, certifying what we often had heard, viz., that
the French Shore was the best part of Newfoundland. Among other
matters of interest in these parts, may be recorded the fact, that on the
top of Table Mountain, near Cape Ray, can be seen a high pile of stones,
known as " Cook's Survey." This is said to be the oldest surveying signal
in the colony, having been erected by that great navigator, and still
proves correct.

Our description of our country, as we have seen it, is no\v given.. Arid
like Cook's Survey, we hope 'twill prove correct.

Before we saw our land, we thought her gopd,
But now we more than think— we know.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XVI.

3vice

very

Iwith

[usty

jries
)site
[that
Ither
the
lies,
jnal
[still

Lnd

COMMERCE AND TRADE.

We have spoken of the future prospects of Newfoundland, and still
hold faith for their fulfilment. We hail the day when busy men will
break the silence of the present, and our sons find employment nearer
home ; not that we begrudge them to travel and see the world. There
is ample room for all this, without such an exodus as we have had.
We believe in our country, and wish to see her children make it their
heritage. Wherever our people have gone, they have done well their
part, always earning' for themselves the enconium of skilled work-
men. Our sons are our pride, comprising what may be termed our
living wealth. They are educated and fitted for life's battle, but other
countries have reaped the benefit of their ability. While we are glad of
their success, we yet feel that there is room at home for most of them.
Many articles of daily use are imported into this colony, which might
easily be manufactured on the spot. We send annually from our shores
thousands of dollars, which could be invested to good advantage at home.
It is not in the province of this pamphlet to say where the remedy lies :
but we will say that there is need of more business men, with capital, to
carry on home industries. Our Government has done its duty, in grant-
ing bounties on home-made articles. But the curious, or rather serious
part of it is, that when men are found willing to invest in these indus-
tries, and thereby lay claim to the right of bounty granted by Govern"
ment, they are at once pounced upon and called monopolists, and bonus
seekers. This practice of cavilling against business men is not wise,
and only reacts in the curtailing of what would otherwise develop into a
large industry.

In travelling through the country, one cannot fail to notice the
large mercantile firms where once a brjsH trade was conducted. They each

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

bear the impress of past magnitude, but their present stillness informs
the enquirer that their course is run. Most of these establishments are
now in ruins, and rapidly becoming of no value whatever. Let us look,
for instance, at the Jersey firms of Burin and LaPoile, and we find their
day of business comparatively gone. They are but the shadow of their
former selves. Again, let us take the firm at Jersey Harbour, near
Harbour Briton, and we have an instance where a premises which cost
thousands of pounds in building, has, during the last decade, become
dilapidated to such a degree, as not to fetch a thousand dollars. The
wharves are almost totally gone, and soon there will not be the least
vistage of former occupation. Yet, at this place a flourishing trade was
for a long time carried on, busy men were seen and heard in the various
departments of commerce. Smart ships were loaded and hurried off to
foreign markets. In a word, it reached its climax, then waned until its
sun went down in closure and abandonment. No one has come to fill
the vacancy caused by this gap, and we almost shudder to think that the
circle of our business men is becoming smaller every year. These cir-
cumstances can be reviewed from diflFerent stand-points, but in all they
teach us that chis country has none too many of capitalists in it. For"
tunes have been made in the past, but when made were taken to the
mother country. Hence there is now very little mainstay to the credit
of the colony. Had half the money made in the early times, been in-
vested and kept :n the country, we would have sufficient means at hand"
to develop our own resources, as well as to build our own railways. But
we looked too long to the sea, thinking that it would ever yield a pay-
ing voyage. Most of our fishermen spent their money lavishly. Those
who made fortunes retired, and the result is, that now our fisheries are
failing, and there is not any reserve fund to fall back upon.

There is, therefore, but one alternative for the Government, and
that is to borrow money for the purpose of opening up our unknown
native land. This is where we now stand in business and finance,
which is not an enviable position. Yet things are better than they look ;
because our present business men are greatly inclined to invest more
and more in new industries. • They now reside amongst us, their inter-
ests are one with the country's, their homes are here, their families are in
our midst, and the common welfare of citizenship makes a kindred feel-

informs
lents are
us look,
find their
' of their
3ur, near
ich cost

become
s. The
the least
rade was
; various
ed off to
until its
e to fill
that the
lese cir-
all they
t. For-

to the
e credit
jeen in-
at hand"
lys. But

a pay-

Those
sries are

SktTCtiEH OF Ol/R m-qriTDir ..
________^_^_^^^^^^^^JVh^ERU SEA COAst. i-

ing. We have everv rnnfi^ ■ —

feel .he s.rain of bad ZT^rja.Tr"'"'""'' "''"■ They of.en

b"s,ne,3 „he„ the pressure'^; "L. ill"' "; ""•"'" "' '"^ -'-/'

"'l be.„-een merchan.s and RsZZ. "" """ '"'P' """■ by good-

^h^" go well, and ,ha. .„e fu.u e „ ou; f ~'"""'™' -^ governed J,

« day outshines the night. '°''"''>' ^'"•" ""'^bine the pas,

nt, and
nknown
finance
y look;
t more
r inter-
s are in
ed feel'

It''

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XVII.

HIDDEN TREASURE.

We would not, for any money, put into these pages anything of a
superstitious or uncertain character. Yet we feel, to close them without
some mention of such an absorbing topic, would be to produce a
desideratum in their completion.

The stories of "Hidden Treasure" have been told so often that
they have lost all their reality. Even the accounts given in some of
our Christmas Numbers, savour of an uncertainty. Like the ghosts
connected with them, they have vanished into nothing.

Some of us have met the man who knew the spot in Port-de-Grave
where, under a certain window, he could dig up in half an hour all the
fortune he wanted. But the midnight sui)erstition was connected with
it, and had such a strong hold upon him, that his treasure was never
brought to light.

We have nlso met the brother of the man who is supposed to have
taken the treasure from the middle grave of Bell Isle, Conception Bay.
But all these stories had so much of the ridiculous connected with
them, that no attention whatever has been paid to them. Still we doubt
not the fact of great wealth being buried in our "Island Home." No
one can read the history of the buccaneers of the Spanish Main,
without concluding that some of the booty found its way to this — at
that remote period — almost uninhabited country.

Among the many stories the writer has heard, there is one which
bears on it the seal of truth, and is free from all superstitious ideas.
The person from whom it was learned, is known to have been a most
reliable authority. A man whose wisdom was unconinion, and who, to
speak to, was to be instructed. He now sleeps in mother earth, but
his works live after him ; for it may be said of him, that he pioneered

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

which

ideas.

la most

kvho, to

jth, but

)aeered

the art of mechanical engineering in this country. Our foundries owe
their present state of advancement to him ; his sons and grandsons
filling the important positions of managers. It was none other than the
late John Angel, farther of our present Hon. James Angel, and Mr.
John Angel. He was a man well read Id the poets and the scriptures.
About forty five years ago, he was engaged in the vicinity of Bay Bulls,
endeavouring to float a wrecked steamer. While there, a smart American
yacht, hailing from one of the States, came in and anchored for a day or
two. The captain of this yacht converted *".-( ely with Mr. Angel and told
him of the expedition they had been on, of which the following is a
synopsis.

Thejr had been to the Northern part of our island in search of
some Hidden Treasure, which his, the captain's intDrmant, had been
instrumeital in burying some eighty years before that date, which was
shortly after the capture of Quebec, by Wolfe, in 1759. At that time
it was customary for sailing troop ships to carr} large supplies of
money in gold and silver. After the victory of Wolfe, one of those
troop ships was dispatched from England, with general supplies, as well
as money, for the purpose of paying the army. It was late in the
month of November, and heavy, contrary winds, drove the ship to
Northern latitudes. The captain finding that he was considerably out
of his proper course, decided to continue his voyage by way of the
Straits of Bell Isle. But fortune was against him, for heavy weather
was still encountered, until finally shipwreck terminated the expedition.
The only chance left for the survivors was to secure themselves as best
they could, and wait patiehtly the return of spring. Tlicy were in a
desolate, uninhabited place, which at that lime— one hundred and thirty
years ago— was comparatively unexplored and unnamed. They saved
much of the supplies and money. The latter they buried at the root
of a tree, near a large rock. *

The winter proved a hard one, and it seemed that all the survivors
succumbed to their hardships, with the exception of two hardy lads :
one the captain's son, and the other the apprentice to the ship. At the
return of spring, these lads managed to get to St. Jolin's — then a very
insignificant place. Here they separated, and never again met. It was
some years before the captain's visit of search, that he leaaned of this

5<^

SKEtCriES OF OdR \VEStERN SEA CO. St.

occurr-'nce, his informant being the apprentice lad, t'len an old man.
He told the captain that he was the only human being in the world,
save the captain's son, who knew anything whatever of the hidden
treasure. He informed them where to steer, to a ceil; in latitude in the
northern part of Newfoundland, When this had been completed, he
was to steer in a given direction, when a narrow lake of water would be
reached. From this position they were to go on shore, where, after
finding certain marks, they were to go so many paces to the right, and
then turn to the left, and advance until the rock before mentioned was
found.

The captain told Mr. Angel th:.t all the instructions had been
minutely carried out, with the result of finding things as described.
They digged and found a sword, and some silver plate of but little
value ; but no trace of the gold and silver coin could they discover.
He. was fully satisfied as to the authenticity of the story, and came to
the conclusion that the captain's son must have made some successful
effort for the recovery of the money.

The place where this occurred proved to be Notre Dame Bay, well
up towards the Exploits River. This is the story as I received it from
my late venerable friend, while sitting in his arm chair in his cottage,
on Hamilton Avenue, St. John's West, rhcre is mucli in the history
of a century and a quarter ago, to make us think that there is truth in
it. However, it is free from all myth, and will be at least worthy the
time of the reader, who, perhaps by little thought, may learn some les-
sons from it.

The unknown stories of our nor'hern hays

May yet reveal to us some startling truths.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XVIII.

UNFINISHED CHURCHES.

We saw things that vre liked to see, and things that we did not ex-
pect to see, besides things we would rather not see. One man asked
us how we saw so many things ? We answered, that they were there, and
we could not help seeing them. Among the latter was the unfinished
places of worship, some near completion, others half finished, and others
in frame, but all still, with no sound of busy workmen. They were
stopped because there was no more money to carry on the work. They
will continue to be stopped for some time, until fortune changes, and
the members either ^et more money or more Christianity : or perhaps
we had better say a more liberal Christianity, which will not only make
them talk religion, but also make them put their hands in their pockets,
and take out their purses, and open them, and give the largest coin or
note, instead of the smallest, which some have hitherto done. When
sitting in some meeting, at which a collection is taken, we generally
take out our money and look all through it, for the smallest silver piece
it has pleased the realm to issue. We pass the fifty cent pieces, and
with them the twenty's alio, and, after finding the tens or fives, we give
one of them with an air that seems to say '* O, that there were silver one
cent, pieces."

In consideration of those who give so much, there must be a great
many who give very little. Some are always giving, and where it not
for their liberality, things would be much worse than they really are.

It is a sort of reproach to a Christian people, who profess a Saviour
a Prayer-Book, a Bible, and a God, to have their places of worship neg-
lected, unfinished and weather-beaten. It is a mistake to have a church
in debt, while everything worldly is paid for. VVe will build our castles
and our cots, and pay for them. That's right. The mpre castles and
the more qqu bqiU ^^A paid for the better j but purely we ought to hi^v?

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

self denial and practical Christianity enough to finish our places of
worship, and see that they are paid for. This should be done for the
honour of the cause itself, and also for the honour and encouragement
of the men who labour in our behalf. Let us show our pastors that we
appreciate their toil, and mean to be practical in the expression of that
appreciation. The fisherman likes a finished boat to fish in, and should
not the gospel fisherman have a finished church to preach in. These
remarks are more applicable to our outports than our city. They are
not written with a spirit of fault-finding, but rather for the purpose of
stirring our people up to their duty to the religion they profess. We are
apt to allow the responsibility of these matters to fall on a few, and
expect that few to erect our churches, while we will not put our finger
to them. Sometimes we expect even more, for after the building is
planned and completed, we expect them to put up with our fault-finding,
and then if ihey are displeased with our fault-finding, we threaten to
leave the church.

Any church would be better for such members as this leaving it.
Where would such members find shelter. If all who begrudge to pay
the minister his dues, or if all who neglect to do so, were to start out
for themselves, they would find their ecclesiastical credit so bankrupt
that they would gladly return to their own fold, with a determination to
practice a religion which gives as well as receives.

We again say, we are not fault-finding, but having seen several
unfinished places of worship along our coast, we feel that some note of
warning needs to be sounded. Don't let the world have everything,
while the church starves. The buildings in question are not costly.
They all show good, sound sense, as to style and size. They are worth
finishing, and by a little united effort on the part of all, the desired end
can be accomplished.

The people's morals are the bulwark of the nation. The battle
ground of morals is the world. The place where morals are taught i^
the church. Let then rhese churches be finished, complete and staunch,
So that " the topstono mpy be brought on with shouting ;" and our

6, have placed on them the top§tone of per-

morah

fectioi> and spiritual life.

When gone the week, and all its labors o'w,
We lo lh« church reiwir, where worda arc taitgbt
Tlmt icU w of u " Un»!*c nii^ \n«Ua with haprli,

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XIX.

^eral
ie of
^ing,
jtly.
lorth
lend

It i^
ich,
lour
jper-

OUR OUTPORT ROADS.

This trip was performed by almost every mode of transit in the land.
We went out by the s. s. Grand Lake, and came in by the Placentia and
Harbor Grace Railway. By sea we had, in addition to the Grand Lake,
the s. s. Alert, of Placentia Bay, the sailing packet Landseer, of Fortune
Bay, and the coasting schooner Ls It, of Ramea, besides, a dory in which a
passage was made across Bay de Lu. These with the ferry boats, all do
their work to the entire satisfaction of the public. By land there were
railways and foot-paths, but mostly the latter.

Having travelled many miles by land, there was opportunity of be-
coming an authority on the roads of our outports. From Bonne Bay to
Burin many scattered pieces were covered, and we cannot but express our
satisfaction with their condition. They are not the best, but still prove of
inestimable value to travelling people. They are capable of improvement,
and much good will accrue therefrom, if they be extended as well as im-
proved. A continuation of roads inland will be of lasting benefit, because
they will open up the good land which ;.> near the people, but inaccessible.
It is evident that our people must look more to the land in the future than
in the past, and therefore we believe that their construction will be a neces-
sity of the near future. We hail the day of railroads through our unknown
interior. They will come — they must come. Whatever man or men
puts through this country an intersection of railroads, will prove the bene-
factor of the future. But we are not speaking of these now. Let us have
them, but with economy.

Our present topic is that of local roads for our people where they are
already settled. Their homes are near the seashore, and they naturally
cling there. The accumulations of their fathers are around them, and it
would mean a saarifice to leave entirely. But they must do something
besides fish, Hence the importance of opening up the land near ^bem»

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

It is by keeping to the sea coast so much, that we have been led to look
upon our country as that of rock and fog only. The sea coast has done
its part, and now that the strain is too great upon it, relief is necessary.
This relief can readily be found, by our people endeavouring to raise their
own vegetables. These vegetables can be raised within a short distance of
many of our settlements ; but this short distance cannot be travelled unless
there be roads to travel by. We here repeat what we have already stated,
viz., why so many of our people have settled on rocks and shoals, where
they but half exist, while so much good land lay within reach of them seems
a mystery. Let them then have these roads, not narrow foot-paths, but
something that will be worthy the name. Such roads, for instance, as that
leading to Broad Cove, which is worthy the honourable man after whom it
is called — Sir Robert Thorburn.

Our road makers of the past had very narrow views ; hence the roads
they built are narrow also. Perhaps they had a narrow margin of profit on
which to work, and could not afford to build them any wider. But they
are too narrow, and will never do much toward the settlement and develop-
ment of the inland places. We do not know exactly how men are paid for
road building, whether by the mile, or whether so much from place
to place. But we do know, that many of our roads are altogether
too winding and too round about. They are unnecessarily so. After a
journey, the traveller can honestly imagine that so much per mile is paid
for them, and the more miles got into them the better. It may be for the
want of better engineering : we cannot tell, but will ever remember, that
many turns and curves were made to go not a very great distance. The
only reason that can be supposed for this round about mode of travelling,
is for the purpose of holding to the seashore ; but as there is only the one
road, it would save much wasted labour if it were run a little nearer a B
line. These roads are fairly good, but too narrow. It was our fortune, or
misfortune, to travel one piece of road, which was bad in the extreme.
It led us from St. Jacques to Belloram. How the mailman gets his pony
along over its rocks is a question not easy of solution. It proved to be the
worst piece of road in all our journeying. It was only three miles long,
but that was long enough for the writer, who, in addition to a bad road,
endured a rain storm. We seem to b» fnnU-finding here ; but we are not.
We are dealing with public matteis, and believe in talking fairly and square-
ly on the subject. Our religion has brought us to " let our yea be yea, arwi

SkETCHfes OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

roads
»fit on
they
elop-
lid for
place
ether
ter a
paid
r the
that
The
lling,
one
a B
e, or
erne,
ony
lethe
ong,
cad,
not.
iare-
an(l

our nay be nay." We wish to see our country opened up with good, wide,
well built roads ; not narrow foot-paths unworthy the name of road, and
over which two dog-carts cannot well pass without a collision and a growl,
h\it public highways on which two horse-carts can pass, without a halt being
called, for the purpose of those in charge holding a consultation on the
possibility of such a thing. Our land must advance, our people must be
helped, and tlicrefore our country must be opened up. Although four
hundred years discovered, she is still unknown ; but the day has dawned
wlien she must take her place in the mineral and lumber producing empo-
riums of British North America.

If we continue to creep around our sea coast, on narrow foot-paths,
we will never advance, but rather be in the same condition four hundred
years hence. Roads in ancient times proved the civilizer of Europe ; and
those built by Imperial Rome are still spoken of.

While travelling on these roads that cross our land,
Let us remember that we travel yet another road,
Which leads us to a land unknown :
A country out of sight.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XX.

ST. JOHN'S.

To write about a country without mentioning its capital, would be
like studying the solar system without the sun. They are both inseparable,
and must go together. What effects one, effects also the other : and so
with St. John's, its interests and the country's are identical. As the heart
is the seat of life, from which issue the pulses of nction, to the extremities
of the body, so is St. John's to Newfoundland. Here centre its trade and
commerce, with branch lines extending to every outport. These outports
are the places spoken of in these pages. We have done our duty towards
them, and therefore leave them.

We come, then, to St. John's, our native town, and To our home, the
very spot in which thirty-six years ago we were born. Having resided
nearly all that time in it, we are in a good position to speak of it for the
last quarter of a century. We well remember the men who then conducted
its business, and bore the heat and burden of the day. Most of them
were old men then, and presented to the boy of eleven a patriarchal ap-
pearance. Every one of these veterans are now of the past. They did
their part in building up the trade of St. John's, but had not the many
conveniences that business men now have. With some of those men went
also their firms. Both are gone and lost to the present generation, whose
shadows bury their predecessors in oblivion. But our day is the best, and
if appearances give any criterion, then we are safe in saying that St. John's
to-day stands far ahead of any former period. Though the fire has swept
away the treasures of a life time, and the land-marks of generations, and
laid in ruins our principal buildings, we rejoice that these ruins are again
giving place to beauty, and that architectural edifices are rearing their pin-
nacles in defiance of the destroyer. As one firm has well put it, " Fire
may destroy, but labour can restore."

With our capital rapidly rebuilding. With men in eariest for the

SJCETCHfeS OF OUk WfeSTERK SEA COASt.

ap-
did
many
went
hose
and
ohn's
wept
and
again
pin-
Fire

the

advancement of home industries. With people willing to do their duly.
With faith in business men and business. With a common faith in our
common selves : we hope for the future of our city, our country, and our
trade. Our business men will rank with any for their push and energy,
their risk and speculation. Their readiness to rebuild their extensive
premises, shows their faith in the country. Their liberality to every hu-
mane and philanthropic appeal .shows their sympathy for their less favoured
fellow beings. The system of their establishments, and the punctuality of
tlieir dispatches, give us high hopes for our city's future. Some one has
said that " Business men are the hinges of the people. They build our
factories, and launch our mighty steamships. They dot the ocean with
sailing clippers, and darken the atmosphere with the smoke of ♦■heir
steamers." This is true, and can be well applied to our men, whose dnring
enterprise is universally known. We don't forget our working men. They
man the ships of commerce and trade, and compose our living wealth. We
are proud of our industrious sons and daughters, and wish to see them
with more regular and constant employment. To get this employment we
must have the business. To get the business we must have men willing to
inrest. Before men will invest, they must feel that they have the protec-
tion of the government, and the good will of the people. There must be
confidence in one another. Our government must respect our business
men, and our business men must respect our government. It will not do
to be at variance. We are writing of our city, and have sufficient proof
before our eyes as to her future prosperity. We hope soon to see the form
of busy men on some of our wharves, where work is now stopped. We
would hail with gladness the advent of a few more exporting and importing
firms. They are the desiderata of the present, and St. John's would be
the better of them.

We have spoken of trade, because it is the life of the people ; and the
more trade we have, the better off will we as a people be. Our future city
will have many improvements not hitherto enjoyed. With large public
halls, with regular streets and squares, with electric light, and telephone
connection ; with a clean press, with faithful teachers and pastors, all
cemented together by goodwill and citizenship, we believe in our city's
future. We regard the past. It has made us what we are. Let us im
prove the present, it will make us what we will be.

St. John's can compare with any town of its size for general trade a d
traffic. Its shops are large and commodious. The goods in them arc

s§

SkETCrifiS 6f our western sfeA COASt.

from the best manufacturers of Europe and America, and it is only when
we visit a few outside places, of which much has been heard, that we really
realise what a compact, well conducted and pushing place St. John's is.
Its large tonnage of local shipping ; its staunch fleet of sealing steamers,
its strong and substantial waterside mercantile premises, and its well shel-
tered harbour, with at its head the spacious dry dock as crown : all tend
to make us feel ambitious for the future. In addition to these things, we
have our regular daily and weekly mail service, our outports connected by
telegraphic communication, and our foreign trade dispatched by smart
sailing vessels, and powerful steamships.

In reviewing these things in connection with our city, we have much
to encourage. With a prosperous city we believe for a prosperous land.
Our best days are yet to come, when the scaffolding of the present will be
taken down, and our re-built town show itself in the lustre of its newness.

We build our city, and defy the flame that burnt it down ;
Let then ourselves be built, of morals pure, and acts that stand
The test of fire.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XXI.

OURSELVES.

In some of the foregoing pages it has been remarked that our sons in
other lands have always earned the enconium of skilled workmen and
faithful labourers. This we believe to be true, from the fact, that these .at
home stand first as artisans an4 mechanics. In our machine shops and
factories, our photdgraphic studios and book stores, our printing offices
and telegraph stations ; in our commerce and our government are men
and women of whom any country may feel proud. Our fishermen them-
selves show skill, which give their work the impress of genius. They go
to the forest and hew down its trees ; they erect their saw pits, and cut
these trees into planks, boards and beams ; they haul and raft these timbers
to their dockyards, and then construct a vessel, tight and trim. In many
cases they rig and decorate these vessels, and when they are ready to skim
the ocean, these same men will man their decks and navigate them between
the rocks and through the fogs. Such are the capabilities of our fisher-
men, who toil.

From early morn till evening shades, and far into the night.

With the general industry of our people we can feel fairly well satisfied.
Their exposure to wind and wave, to wet and cold, certifies to their physical
endurance. While the daring pluck, exhibited in the prosecution of our
pealing voyages proclaim them heroes of our icy battle fields. It is a
written fact in our nation's past history, that the fishing grounds of Terra
Nova were the nurseries of many of the bravest sailors which manned her
fleets. That bravery still beats within the bosom of our sea-going people ;
and as in the past it built up the nation, so in the future will it btiild up
its oldest co)ory. This same industry wliich have conquered angry waves,
can also coaquur our agricultural wastes, and make the conquorers

Lord of land ti well n tea.

But our fishermen are not all. It takes many to make fi worl4 ; therf'

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

fore one class of men cannot make a country. We must have men to rule
as well as be ruled. Men to preach as well as practice. Men to enforce law
as well as to obey law. Like as in some grand orchestra it takes each
instrument in the hands of the right performer to produce harmony of
performance ; so in the general trade of our coimtry, it takes each man
and woman, with their respective abilities, to transact its business.

We rejoice in our Island Home, and also in its people, by which we
mean its resident population, whether native or adopted. Such names
as Carter, Little and Winter in its tribunal of justice. Such names as
Whiteway, Bond, Donnelly and Morison in its legislative halls. Such
names as Grieve, Bowring, Monroe, Harvey, Duder, Job, Steer, Rogerson,
Baird, Ayre, Pitts, Goodfellow, Tcssicr, Thorburn and (loodridge, in it.«5
'commercial society. Such names as Blandford, Cain, Fowlow, Jackman
and Barbour in its hardy sealing list. Such names as Woods, Rouse and
Cunningham in its pulpits abroad, and Wood, Curtis and O'Reilly in its
pulpits at home. With such names as these we think we have room for
gratification.

We do not all agree .as to how things should be done, or as to how
the country should be ruled. But we do all agree that we have a
good country and a good people. The morals of our land will compare
favoural)ly with any other place, while the industry of its people cannot be
gainsayed. Could \v(,' learn to regard ourselves a little more, and exhibit
more respect for those of opposite sides, we would show ourselves more
wise in the eyes of the world than is possible at present. The extremes to
which partyism is carried in our daily press is not at all honourable. The
battle could and can be fought without so much personal abuse. There
is no occasion for it. Men will diTer while this side the m'llenium. When
rulers of a land are called legalized robbers, when merchants are called
bounty-seekers and grindiii;; monopolists, there must certainly be some-
thing wrong somewhere. We may think lightly of these things. We may
say that they are only politics, only partyism. But lightly as we may think
of them they will yet effect us. They cannot but bring forth some harvest,
and the harvest of such sowing is not desirable. To incense commerce
a.eainst government, and labour against capital ; to continue daily issuing
vile scandal at those who lead, is not only detrimental to tl>e sentiments of
the people, but also degrading to the honour and power of the press.

The press is the great educator of the day. It has a more far-reaching
influence than the pulpits; Qf pur fhrl^tia'llty- It i8.suc's daih; (rq^^ its t;ypa

SKETCHKS OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

the unknown and unspoken volumes of the thinker. These volumes enter
into the solitude of the spot called home, and these homes contain all that
is sacred to humanity. If, then, the press is of s ch tremenduous import*
ance. If it sway such a mighty influence — if open to it lies the bosom of
our homes — then in the name of all that is patriotic or humane, we say,
let the press be clean.

We admire the independence of these papers. They give us what we
long lacked — daily news. They have even opened their columns to all
temperance and moral reforms. They have done a good work, but in
their politics they go too far. There is no occasion for such extremes. We
speak of our press because it affects us. At the hour of issue the public
eagerly watch for it. They watch for it to get it, they get it to read it,
they read it to be influenced and effected by it, the influence and eflect of
it will entirely depend on its contents. This influence does not end at
home, for these papers are sent to friends far and near, and when they
find us saying such hard things about ourselves, can we wonder if they say
and think the same. We would not like the outside world to think that
we were dishonest, that we were boodlers, or that we were grinders of the
poor. No ! we want them to think well of us, so that our credit may be
good. What we sow, we will reap. Therefore if we condemn ourselves
we cannot blame others if they do it ;i!so.

Outside of this extreme partyism we admire these papers. They give

good, racy news ; good local items ; excellent shipping and marine

statistics, and general good selections. They are bright and well planned

in their business capacity. The paper is good and the print satisfactory.

They are well adapted to publish the affiiirs of this colony, for the welfare

of its people and the common good of all. We admire everything, but

condemn the extremes to v.'hich they go in politics. This chapter is

already long ; and enough has been said. Let us then love our country,

and respect ourselves. Before us lies the land, it should be our duty to

make it the best land of any. While, then, we have our different sides, we

should bear in mind that other people's rights are sacred to, and by

respecting them, we respect also " Ourselves."

To know thyself, and have thy side, is rifjht ;

To think thou knowest all, and no one else a thing, is wrong.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XXII.

OUR AGED FISHERMEN.

I have spoken of the country, its roads and buildings, etc., and had
decided that topics enough had been dealt with for the present ; but now
that I have finished, it seems I have only begun, for different things arise
which give space for much useful expression of thought. Among these, I
feel that a few words on behalf of our aged fishermen will not be out of
place. We have been all taught U) honour age ; and when we see young
men pay respect to grey hairs, we see something which indicates true man-
hood ; and on the contrary, when we see them make light of old age, and
smile at its peculiarities and weakness, we have beheld that which is un-
worthy the name of manhood.

I have stated in one of the preceding chapters, that each place had
its veteran, who was looked upon as the patriarch of the village. True,
they are such ; but many of them are not in that condition worthy their age.
I speak now mostly of the outports, where the persons I saw had led quiet,
peaceable and law-abiding lives. When visiting a strange place, the sick and
neglected are generally found out. The old are often met with on the
road, and it requires no words to learn their circumstances. The infirm
body signals many struggles, while tattered garments proclaim their poverty.
To pass them without a kind word, would be outside the teaching of Chris-
tianity, therefore, like the apostles at the temple gate, we stop : not to give
silvt-r and gold, but such as we have, which at times may be but a brotherly
grasj) of the hand, followed by sympathetic words. Such acts may no*
appear very great in a worldly sense, but they tell the weary pilgrim that
is not wholly forgotten.

Some time ago, while visiting a small place, a very old man was met.
His poverty was aggravated by his untidy and nnclo.inly cnndition. In h's
son'-rvhnt wi!:hc»ivrl lurid he hold a stick, and by its aid moved slowly on.
I.ite'r, storms had dono their work on his thinly clad and shattered form.
yet his heart wft5 soft, for down his wej^ther be^t^n cheeks rolled hot tears^

SKETCI^ES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

had
True,

met.
Iln h's
lly on.

Iform.
Itears,^

when held by the hand and spoken to. He was very old. Thf; compan-
ions of his Ufe had all passed before him, and like some long-standing ram-
pike of the forest, he stood alone, a sort of by-mark of his generation.

When leaving him I took^is hand, and with all the humanity of my
being, and Christianity of soul, I looked into his face, and repeated the
words of this beautiful, and to him suitable, hymn, —

"A few more storms shall lieat, On this wild, rocky shore, '
And we shall be where storms arc not, And surges swell no more."

"A few more suns sh.ill set, O'er these dark hills of time,
And we shall be where suns are not, A far screner clime."

I dropped his withered hand, and said ' (iood bye, God bless you, sir.'
He returned his blessing, and we parted. I dare say, by this time his sun
has set, burying in oblivion his eighty years. His whole life had been
spent in the business of the colony, living along plain and honest ; but,
like the most of humanity, he had nothing to fall back upon. Hence his
poverty and neglect Several such cases are to be found hmong the out-
ports ; and now that I am writing this book in the interests of my country
and people, I think that a plea, on behalf oi' our aged fishermen, will not
be amiss.

Our land is well supplied with public buildings and institutions. We
are proud of them. When visiting them we feel, thankful that such provis-
ion is made for the sick and afflicted. These institutions are an honour to
our public works, and the condition in which they are kept a monument
to those in charge. We are well satisfied with the general provision made
by the Government in these institutions ; but in all cases there are excep-
tions, and so with some of those old fishermen. They have lived all their
lifetime in an outport ; their associations are there, and they are accustom-
ed to the freedom of such a life. Though old and feeble, they still manage
to get about, and enjoy as best they can the hours of their declining years,
i hey would rather stay in their quiet village home than come to St. John's
and enter the Poor Asylum. Such a life is almost an imprisonment to
tl m. In many cases this is all that can be done, but in some places they
could be left where they are, had they a little more annual allowance. At
present they receive the sum of fifty cents a week, which annually amounts
to a large iten^ in the aggregate. If this sum could be increased a little,
with the addiiional bounty of a suit of warm homespun, a pair of good
strong boots, with some underclothing, the life of these men would be
made much happier.

SKfeTCli^S Ot" OtJR WESTERN SfeA COASt.

These old fishermen have all done their part to help build our out-
ports up. I'hey prosecuted the fisheries when large voyages were killed,
and men had not the appliances of the present. They served as master
and servant, but are now unfit for either. The country owes much to them,
and therefore it is hopt d that something more will be done on their behalf.
To see them in tattered garments, and broken cast-off shoes is not honour-
able. They are worth bettor, and a little more should be allowed them.

Their condition reminded us of the old sliips and schooners, which
lie stranded on the beaches of almost every harbour along our coast.
These vessels once sailed 'neath spreading canvas, brave men once manned
their docks and steered their course;. They had profitable voyages and
losing ones. They sailed on, voyage after voyage, until ihey began to get
old, and show signs of weakness, and were finally beached, being unfit for
further use. There they lie, the relics of past trade and commerce, telling
the passer-by that once they sailed these same waters, o'er which he now
steams. These old vessels and old fishermen are much alike. They both
buffeted the storms of Neptune, and now they rest by the wayside of life.

In closing, we therefore appeal for them. Let them not be forgotten.
They once were young, as we are now. Soon they will be gone, and we
be like them. Many of these, like "the last rose of summer," inherit this
dark world alone. Let, then, their inheritance be brightened by the help-
ing hand of the Government.

Tho.'.e aged veterans of the stormy past, are of the present too :
And still have cl.iiins upon the land for which they toiled,
When health and strength, and manhood's worth was theirs.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XXIII.

CANDIDATES VERSUS ELECTORS.

The world's records tell of many battles. There is no natioTi but
has had its conflicts, in which have fallen the heroes of its army. We
Could expect to find a difference between the wars of Christian nations
and heathen, but taken on the whole it is the one thing. They aim at
the same object, and end in the same way — the destruction of their fellow
beings. The chief difference between them is, that the one does so in the
spirit of prayer, while the other does so in that of revenge. It sometimes
seems ridiculous to pray over the slaughter of fellow mortals, but when it
is on the defensive side war cannot be well avoided.

But there are other conflicts than those of armies, where men meet
and take opposite sides. Within the human breast conflicts of right and
wrong are fought, and such struggles require at times the whole will-power
of the man to decide in the right. The struggles of the heart who can
tell ? How little we know of each other's efforts in the endeavour to do
right, and how ready we are to condemn our brother, because, to us, he
has apparently done or gone wrong. Christianity as practised at the
present almost entirely overlooks the injunction of the Master, when in
His sermon on the mount, He said, "Judge not, that ye be not judged.''
We have so far forgotten this as to take delight in bringing people up for
what they do. We talk to them as if we were the sole judges of what
does not belong to us. We even worry ourselves about other people's
business to the neglect of our own. It seems a pity that some of us were
not born judges, for we would be certain to do our duty. We are so
energetic now about what does not concern us, and for which we are not
paid, that we would almost turn the world upside down if we were on the
bench and gettin^j a salary. 1 his is what we do, and yet profess Christi
anity ; while its author and founder would not judge between a man an 1
his brother ; for ilid He not say, " Man, who made me a judge or a ruler
o\crthv,x:." iJut wj do differently. We seem to be a privileged sort of

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COASt.

li I'!

people, having a sole right to fit Christianity to ourselves, instead of our-
selves to Christianity. We make it bow down to us instead of we bowing
down to it, and therefore we can go beyond its teaching, and become judge
and jury in the case of our opponents.

But we must leave national conflicts and personal struggles by coming
to the topic of the chapter. To understand a battle fully would require
experience as a soldier. Still the artist or newspaper correspondent who
stands in the distance, sees really more of what is going on than those
engaged. So in our experience. We are but novices in politics and
election campaigns. As the Hon. Robert Bond said, on the platform at
Trinity, ** We have not got our political bib on yet, nor have we received
our baptismal fire." But we have passed through one campaign, and for
many years have read in the daily papers the description of how " fields
were fought and won." With this experience it occurs to us that both
sides of the field lower their dignity. By both sides we mean, not these of
government and opposition, but of candidate and voter.

Some one must govern the country, and before they can do so they
must have authority, and this can only be procured with election by the
will of the people. True, the people like to hear stirring speeches from,
and see the men who ask their support. Yet after all so much speeching
is unnecessary. One good, impartial address to the electors, in which the
candidate keeps his proper }>lace as such, by avoiding any undue remarks
against his opponent should be sufficient. It was hoped that the " Ballot
Act " had done away with so much speeching, but we have been somewhat
disappointed, for there seemed to be more of it the last election than ever
before. It is a terrible task for a candidate of eitner side to have to get
around a district of one hundred or two hundred miles in the month of
November, and yet it is done. But it seems to be self-imposed, for to be
nominated at head quarters would do just as well. The candidate would
save much labour and expense. He would not be lowering his dignity by
asking people for their support to represent them. Why should any
candidate couch to any people? Some one must do the work for them,
and it is time that some of the electors knew how to listen to men who
seek their suffrage. It is not because a man becomes a candidate that
people must insult him. If they don't want him, the place to say so is at
the poles. They should not do things to candidates of which any man
would feel ashamed, and from which manhood would shrink.

It is a very easy thing to meet a member who seeks re-election, and

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

insult him, and then try to hinder him from getting a decent hearing : and
when it is all over, go to a prayer meeting, and pray about it. It is very
easy to look up in a candidate's face, and •' boo " at him to such an extent
that the candidate informed the " boo-man " that he would make a fine
fog horn. It is very easy to dictate to a candidate, and insult him as he
speaks, and nod your head sideways, like a yelping dog, while you threaten
tO give him your ideas when he is finished : and then when he is finished,
rise up and go out, and refuse to come back, when honourably challenged,
Such actions as these are out of the line of honest political campaigns, and
the sooner our people afe told about it the better. Abuse is not argument
at any time, nor is sauce on politics necessary. What I have here men-
tioned as happening, has really taken place. In two of the cases, I saw
the men as they acted, and although one of them was on the side I assisted,
I disapproved of it, and disapprove of it still ; and were I offered the pre-
miership of my country to-morrow, and it could not be procured without
my supporters indulging in such conduct, I would rather remain where I
am, than accept it from the election by such r^eans and men.

How some of the people I met can reconcile their contemptible, un-
manly conduct, with their church-going, is to me a mystery. They have
yet to learn that Christianity has its place in elections, as well as in churches,
and the sooner they bring it there, and practise it, the better.

But there is room for reform on all sides. The idea most electors
have of a candidate, is the same as that which a fisherman has of a mer-
chant. He thinks that the candidate cannot do without him, and why he
does so is, because his support is sought in a manner that indicates it. If
some of the hand-shaking and humility exemplified at election campaigns
could be carried out during the four years of office, the candidate would be
in a position to stand before his constituents with greater independence.
The most becoming time to show dignity h as a candidate ; but the most
becoming time to show humility, is when serving as representative. We
say, then, that there is room for reform on both sides, and it is hoped the
future political conflicts will be free from the urmecessary political insults,
which candidates on both sides have had heaped upon them. It is not be-
cause a man differs from us in his opinion, as to who should rule the land,
jhat we should be at enmity with him. It is not because a gentleman on
Jhe platform seeks re-election, on a different policy from mine, that I must
forget his right, as man and citizen. If such have been the politics of the
past, we say, away with them forever. T.et us take our side, but not for^^et
thi^ro .are «;thor sid.-s : an-l w]\ n tlie l>attlc is ri)i!;4,ht, give our blessing to
thi winners, so that thjy may do their best for the land and people oyer

which they rule.

" If thine enemv hunger, feed him t
"Ifh^thM, giY?hJn>drli>k."

^ThiScrifhtm^

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XXIV.

•u

FICTION VERSUS FACT.

We are getting so accustomed to fiction that we are beginning to
forget fact. Time was when we almost dreaded the thought of the novel,
but now we stand reversed, and almost dread the thought of the real.
Fact and fiction are now so closely allied that, like the wheat and chaff of
the parable, they must both grow together until the truth shall separate
them. Weeds in a garden soon gain the mastery when once they are
permitted to take root, and so with trashy books, they take the place of
standard works ; and at the present moment many of the libraries in our
reading rooms and Sunday schools are below standard ; which, if the
Master were to judge, he would again act as he did in the temple in the
days of His flesh, by scourging those who turned the use of sacrificial
offerings into an unlawful merchandise.

We boast of the age of reading, but what do we read ? How many
of modern readers are versed in the common outlines of national or ancient
history? How many of our school boys can tell the facta of sacred
history ? They cannot do it, and why ? Because they do not properly
lejirn it, and yet they work hard, but they only learn to forget, because
they are aiming at so many things that they become surface scholars, whose"
•earning, like their examinations, becomes a thing of the past.

Books are ever increasing, but useful, general knowledge is not. We
are becoming so accustomed to light, sensational literature, that we are
hardly able to digest the facts of standard writers. The issue of books
could well be stopped for awhile, and people take time to learn what they
really Want, and what is really usef\il. One of the best educators of thq
day is the newspaper, and where it not for itii extreme political debates it
would carry double the power it does. Since the inception of the Telegram
— which has the honour of being the first regular evening paper to sucress-
fully fill the long-f«jU waut of evening nev ;«: >|vith the Ah^^i^ry (now Herald))

SKETCHES OF OlTR WESTERN SEA COAST.

ley

it
im

which soon followed. We have read in each of their columns many of the
chief facts of national history, many of the chief sayings of standard
authors, and the best quotations from the poets. But to know the real
meaning of these quotations the reader requires to be versed in the liter-
ature from which they are taken. This literature is not in the list of
present day fiction but in that of historic, standard fact, which men wrote
more for the good of their times, their nation, their country, and their
principles, than themselves.

What possible object can half the trash of the present day have in
being published ? It may be to instruct, but it proves mostly to entertain,
and leaves very little for the reader's meditation. The author may be the
better, but the world is the worse, because precious time has been bestow-
ed on " that which is not bread, and that which salisfieth not." We have
read various sorts of books, and have derived good from them all. Each
one did its part in fitting the writer for his present task ; but those he found
most useful, for practice and theory, were books of fact. Fiction has its
place in the shadows of fact. It is very good as an illustrator, by way of
symbol or parable. It was in such a way as this that the Great Teacher
used it : and as a lesser light to add lustre to a greater, and as a small
means to a great end. He put fact first, and then used fiction as its hand-
maid. While in that position it was useful, and still gives power to His
doctrine. But we have changed the order, and instead of using fiction as
an illustration of fact, we are using fact as an illustration of fiction. In-
stead of using much fact with little fiction, we use little fact with much
fiction. In plain words, the great bulk of modern writers largely pro-
duce works of fiction, which the many read ; while the few turn carefully
the page of historic fact. The majority seem to read and write for enter-
tainment, and the minority for instruction. Entertainment only amuses
for the time being, and then leaves a void, a longing for more, a wish-
ing it had been longer, and a desire for repetition. In a word, most of
our entertainments, while they satisfy lor the present, generally leave us
more dissatisfied in the end, but not so with useful reading. It does a
double work, and answers a double purpose. While it entertains, it also
instructs, and when the book is closed, there is something added to the
mental store-house, which instead of producing a vacuum, fills it.

Fiction is in the ascendency, for we are putting it foremost. True, we
strike the truth in such works. Tn,iy teach their lessons, and have their
moral. But why go this round about way to learn fact ? Why put it

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COASl'.

^¥1

through the labyrinth of doubt and suspense ? Why produce it as
something which we fear to make Icnown ? Are facts scarce ? Is there
nothing left for the present generation to learn ? Is all the fact gone out
of the world ? And does fiction reign supreme ? Have we learned of our
nation, our country, or ourselves ? Have we read of this body of ours —
this piece of mechanism, which Job spoke of as being " fenced with sinews
and flesh," and the Psalmist declared to be " fearfully and wonderfully
made " ? While we read these empty trashy novels, let us ask ourselves, if
we have done our duty in the perusal of more important matters ? What
about our physical manhood ? What about its passions, its desires, and its
demands ? Are we doing our duty to our bodies ? Which is the leader,
body or mind ? Is the mind master, with the body the servant ? If so,
then we are upside down, and in bondage to every passion of the fallen
fiesh. Man's superiority is in his mentality, and until that mentality has
the preeminence over his lower nature, he cannot be his own master.

We don't seem to know these things ; but how can we know them
when we have not learned them, and how can we learn them, when we
give our time to the reading of idle tales ? These tales have gained the
victory, and left the reader the unsatisfactory heritage of longing for more.
Hence he finds himself a discontented being, with a body ungoverned,
and an intellect unsatisfied.

We don't wonder at these things. It is the custom and fashion of the
times to do so, and until some mighty change, which will shake the very
foundation of habit and custom takes place, we may make our minds easy,
and rest satisfied with things as they are. Society is far from happiness,
and only the few have peace within. It cannot be any other way. The
custom of society is out of order, and men won't stop to think about it.
They are satisfied with the fleeting, gaudy, gilded pleasures of sensjition,
and are so absorbed in gratifying the demands of the body, that the soul
is forgotten. They go through life with (as I heard one of the Redemp-
torist fathers say) starved souls.

We are in a world of fact, and yet we feed on fiction. We have an
abundance of reality, but ignore its existence by grasping at shadows. We
say then that fiction has too great a place in the reading circle of the present,
ftnd that we are drifting from the old land-mnrks of standard writings, there-
by losing our patriotism in not being versed in historic iact^ " "

The world and nation ;
Yea, we ourselves,
Arc f^ct mvsterioqs,

SkETCrtES OF Obk WESTfeRN SEA COAST:

CHAPTER XXV.

Ian
Ive
Int,
Ire-

AS OTHERS SEE US.

From time to time we get the privilege of reading in some foreign
paper, a description of the land in which we live, for outsiders profess to
know more about it than the inhabitants.

It is the same with countries as individuals, others know more about
them than they know themselves. I have always learned more about my-
self from someone else, than I could otherwise find out ; and I heard more
about Newfoundland, outside of it, than I ever heard in it. The idea
our neighbours have of our cormtry and people is incredulous. We are
not such a great distance from them, but yet appear to thcr«i as an inferior
race of beings, without education, law or order. ' This has been plainly
stated by the Boston Post, and copied in one of our erening papers a. few
days ago.

It would seem that some one is generally ready to come to the front,
and show us up in colours most despicable and false. No sooner is one
attack forgotten, than another is made, and thus it continues, and will
continue, until some practical effort be made to stop such calumny. How
any man can visit our outports, with their whitewashed buildings, their gar-
den patches, their neat churches, and view them — even the woist of thorn
— and then describe them as tilts and huts, can only be explained by
suppos'ng that the writer was intent on defam-ng the land, it> people and
their interests. To such a degree is this carried out that our position is
similar to a target, at which marksmen shoot, with the intention of striking.
If some of those strangers who annually visit our shores, were warned of
what has been said in the past, they would, perhaps, be more cautious in
the opinions they express about us. It is time we were spoken the truth
about, and an effort made to place our "Island Home" in her trurj posi-
tion before the outside world. The most erroneous ideas are entertained
concerning us ; and even now, with all our steam communication and
outside correspondence : with an ever increasing mail service, with cv.ry

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

accommodation for visitors : with all this, we are still wronged, and vilely
slandered by misrepresentation. Those who do it would be expected to
know better, but whether they do or not, they speak of us in language
which holds us up to the world as a spectacle of misery, woe and destitu-
tion. A stranger reading these accounts cannot but form a most unfavor-
able opinion as to our condition and mode of living. The North Pole
does not present a more desolate aspect, to my mind, than this writer has
given of Newfoundland. He has slandered us as a people in our social
and domestic circles ; and at present no other plaCe has heaped upon it
such volumes of misrepresentation. We do not know the writer, but throw
back his words, as unworthy any man or woman assuming to write for
public information.

To illustrate what people think about us, and how they talk about us,
and how they wrong us, I will record the following facts: Some thir-
teen years ago, at the age of twenty-three, I went on a six weeks' visit to
Halifax. Shortly after my arrival there, I was introduced to several people,
and one morning I was comfortably seated by my friend's fireside, when
an elderly lady entered the room. As a matter of custom and etiquette,
an introduction followed, in which my friend remarked that I was from
Newfoundland. The lady responded, that I " had been there, but did not
belong there." I said '* Yes, I am a native of that country," to which she
again responded, by saying, " Indeed I I did not think that a young man
like you would belong to Newfoundland." I did not say much, but her
statement contained volumes for me to think about. Shortly after this, I
spent an afternoon with one of tiie many friends I had made. While doing
so a gentleman came in, who proved very talkative. He had too much
talk, for he kept all the other members of the company listening to him.
I had learned that " next to a good speaker, came a good listener," and
not having much to say at any time, I had less when in a strange place,
and therefore listened to this chatty gentleman. My chief reasons for so
doing were, that I considered he had ta'k enough for all present, and as
his theme was " Newfoundland," from which he had just returned, I was
doubly interested. He was a quick talker, but did not seem to possess
tact or observation enough lo detect the aitilule of some in the audience.
I had left St. John's at ei^iht o'clock on Cliristinas Iwe. The day Was one
of warmth, which produced slop[)y streets. He spoke a lot of what he saw
on water street, on CUristmis live, ami fr )m w!nt he stated, I knew he
was truthful. I therefore acj:;pted tae m my things he continued to say

SKETCrtES OF OUR WEStERN SEA COAST.

ut us,
; thir-
sit to
eople,
when
uette,
from
id not
1 she
man
t her
his, I
oing
much
him.
and
lace,
r so
d as
was
ssess
nee.
Is one

SUV

v he
say

about the Anancial affairs of our business men. He knew, or professed
to know, the whole business of water street, and must have been a favoured
individual, to get so far within the inner circle of other people's business.
After he had monopo!i.sed the afternoon, he left, but never surmised that
the one who had the least to say, knew every shop and firm he spoke
about. To my knowledge, I have never seen him since, but perhaps he
still comes here. He was engaged in the travelling agency business. How-
ever, I learned more about the private business of water street during that
afternoon than ever before ; nor have I learned as much since. It seemed
strange that I should go so far to be instructed in matters of my every day
life, and learn from an outsider the financial condition and standing of
men, at whose counters I had made purchases, and whose faces I had
studied from childhood. I have never spoken of this circumstance any fur-
ther than to say in conversation, that " I learned more of St. John's and its
business men, in one hour, while sitting in a house in Halifax, than I had
heard for a life-time." This will illustrate how people talk about us.
This gentleman did not say one word against us, because if he had, he
would not have got clear until he had learned that Newfoundland was in-
carnated in his presence. What took my attention was his over familiarity
with our business men's private financial affairs. Among the many he
mentioned, was a commercial gentleman, now deceased, on whose business
standing he appeared to be an authority in every detail.

While going to Halifax, our steamer, the Canima, put into Louisburg
for coals. While there we were storm-bound, and thought seriously of
paying a visit to the ancient T.iOuisburg, which was the capital of Canadian
possessions, under the reign of Louis XIV. of France. To be anywhere
near the ruins of such an historic spot, connected as it was by being found-
ed by I.ouis XIV., would cause the commonest reader of history to hasten
to the scene. The distance is only a few miles, but I did not feel like
risking it, as "discretion is the greater part of valour." My time was ac-
cordingly spent in and about modern Louisburg, which is a place very
like our Topsail, only that it has a fine coal drop, and a few stores on the
the opposite side. While doing so I met a mai and fell in conversatio i
with him. He took me to his house, located in the middle of a field, and
gave me some milk. He was about forty-seven years of age, and had in
his home his father and mother — or rather it was their home, and h j was
still w th th^:n. At that time the Irish question was assuming import mce,
and Par.ivU was nier^'ing into prominence in connection with it. Th; old

SKEtCHES OF OUR WEStEkN SEA COAST.

gentleman asked me if I had any late news on the Irish question. I told
him I had not much ; but that the last telegraphic despatches I saw when
leaving home, were of an encouraging nature on behalf of the measure.
This led into general conversation, during which he learned my whereabouts
and belongings : but like many others, he did not think that Newfound-
land was such a place, and had such people.

These are facts which came under my own observation ; and when
reading such erroneous stories as were lately clipped from the Boston Post^
I feel that we must give a bold response to those who misrepresent us. I
have travelled a large portion of my native land, and have done work
enough during the last ten years to live by it : but it has never brought
me one cent., but cost me many — save six weeks last summer ; and I
mean to work for the benefit of the weak and fallen, and am willing to be
unknown and unheard, but am not willing to have my country slandered
by pens dipped in gall, by those who know her not. I write this defence,
because I know the condition of our people, and have visited the hum-
blest and poorest houses, both in St. John's and out of it. My whole life
has been spent in such work, and therefore I assert, that not more than five
per cent, of our people are in a condition any thing like that writer's state-
ment.

At Victoria Village there are a few tilts which are a standing disgrace
to us as a people. It may be that the writer saw these and decided that
he had a safe criterion from which to judge. I have more than seen these
tilts, for I have entered them, and will here say that had I means to-mor-
row, I would change the lot of at least one family whom I visited. Tliese
tilts are right in the highway of public traffic between Carbonear, in Con-
ception Bay, and Heart's Content, in Trinity Bay. Strangers and tourists
visiting our country, very often pass that way, and they cannot but feel
horrified at the reality, that human beings occupy the sights they see. It
is these few tilts, scattered here and there, that have given rise to such
false ideas being generally entertained about us, and until some steps be
taken to remove these I here mention, they will continue to impress stran-
gers with an idea which cannot be favourable to us. Two years ago I
wrote in the Evening Herald^ on this same question, and was greatly pleas-
ed when passing through this village a few weeks ago, to see a new church
in course of erection. If the Government could see its way clear to re-
move these few tilts, which are exposed to every passer-by, it would be-
stow a lasting blessing on the people, and lift from us their present re-

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

proach. I think if our Premier had seen them, he would have them re-
moved. I know I would, were I even less than the Premier.

My book is now in the hands of the printer, and this chapter is added
for the purpose of contradicting these false statements, by showing who-
ever reads it, that Newfoundland has, in addition to her scenery and
fertility, clean, tidy, comfortable homes.

Let me repeat, then, in closing, that I know the habits and condition

of our people, I know them, because I have seen for myself, and am

in a position to affirm that their condition far surpasses that of crowded

city life. I, therefore, contradict that writer, and if I knew him would do

so face to face.

Our cottage homes along our shores
Proclaim the taste of those within.

1 1

SKETCHES or OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XXVI.

SUMMARY OF THE WORK DONE.

The foregoing trip was taken on behalf of the Citizens' Temperance
Association of St. John's; an organization which formed into working
order last winter, and is composed of delegates from various other Temper-
ance Societies and Orders.

The object of the mission was to appeal to the people of the outports
to help us here in St. John's in the furtherance of Temperance legislation.

Public meetings were held at the following places during the space of
six weeks, from the first of July to the 14th of August.

The Association is non-sectarian and non-political, and all the meet-
ings were held and addressed on this basis.

As will be seen from the subjoined summary, men of different views
in Church and State, occupied the chair.

At Bay St. George the C. of K. scliool room was placed at our service
by the kindness of Rev. Mr. Jeffreys, and the highest appreciation shown
for the work by his respected wife. The building was crowded, many
being unable to gain admission. The chair was occupied by Capt. Hurst,
who expressed himself as "ever willing to help us in our laudable work,''

At the South side of this place, another public meeting was held in
the Methodist school house. The chair was filled by Mr. Butt, sr., an old
and respected inhabitant of the place, and a warm supporter in the good
cause. Much kindness was shown by magistrate O'Dwyer and constable
Goodland.

At Channel the C. of E. school room was placed at our disposal by
the Board of Education, .it the kind request of Rev. Mr. Godden. Mr^
Arnold acted chairman, and a very good audience greeted the speaker.
This was the first meeting held, and being called At very short notice, we
felt that a fair beginning had been made. The attention was good, but
we can never feel satisfied with the manner io. wWqh the aMij^nce wera
^Uowe^ to disperse,

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

At Burgeo two meetings were held in the large school hall, the use of
which was given by Rev. Mr. Field, now of l>inity, East. He presided
at both meetings, and among all held, none were better.

At Ramea two public meetings were held in the store of Messrs.
Penny Bros. These gentlemen did all in their power for the comfort of
the visitor and the good of the undertaking. Nearly all the people of
Ramea attended both meetings.

At Harbour Briton two very enthusiastic meetings were held in the
Court House« which was placed at our use by the liberality of magistrate
Hubert, father of the late Dr. Hubert. At the second meeting the people
were so in earnest that they came forward at their own choice, and signed
their names for Prohibition.

At Rose Blanche, Mr. Ridout kindly offered a store for public meet-
ing, but at the counsel of the Rev. Mr. Bailey — now of St. John's — wc
decided that a public meeting was not necessary. He, however, decided
to preach a temperance sermon on his ovn lines.

At Boxey a small gathering was addressed in the cook room, placed
at our use by Mr. Studly, of Grand Bank, who was conducting business
there for the summer.

At English Harbour a meeting was held in the C. of E. school house,
it being procured from the teacher, Mr. Straiten ; who also acted chairman,
besides showing kindness to the speaker in procuring him comfortable
lodgings.

At St. Jacques a good audience greeted us in the government store,
on the public wharf. In this place we heard some of the most encourag-
ing remarks of the campaign.

At Belleoram a large and enthusiastic meeting was held in the Fisher-
man's Hall, which was freely given by the trustees, at the direction of Mr.
W. Smith, the esteemed school teacher, and son of the Rev. Walter Smith,
of Portugal Cove. This young man presided at the meeting, and did all
in his power to bring about the success attending the effort.

At Garnish a public meeting was addressed in the S. A. Barracks, and
a large audience turned out to greet the stranger.

At Burin three meetings were held. The first in Temperance Hall,
At Collins' Cove, was presided over by Mr. John E. Collins. The second
was held at Path End, in the Fisherman's Hall, which was hired, the chair
Wfis taken by Mr, Thomas Hussey. This wi^s the first temperance meet-

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

ing ever held at Path End, and although the audience was very small, we
felt that the ice had been broken, and that some future meeting would be
better. The third meeting was held at Spoon Cove, in the Methodist
school room ; Mr. (loddard acted as chairman ; the audience was large,
and attested their approval by paying strict attention for an hour-and-a-
half. The last meeting was held at Placentia ; the Court House was
offered by the kindness and liberality of magistrate O'Reilly, a strong
advocate for temperance reform, and father of Rev. Dr. O'Reilly, of St.
John's. After due consideration we decided to hire the Star of the Sea
Hall, whicli was procured at a very reasonable figure. I'he Rev. Father
("lancey, IM'., readily agreed to preside. The audience was very large,
and entire satisfaction was exj)ressed from all sides.

This finished the campaign, and now that we review it, we feel that a
deep debt of gratitude is due to all those who so readily stretched forth
the hand of brotherly love to a passing straiiger.

The trip was a profitable one, but in some instances almost too much
for one person. To get into a harbour unknown and somewhat unex-
pected, the first duty would be to procure a place of meeting, then the
chairman, and then talk the meeting up. By the time this was sometimes
done, a rest would be more desirable than an hour's talking ; but this was
our work, and no lack on our part would ever cause that work to suffer.
We have done the human part, and now leave to Him who rules on high
the harvest of our labours. Amen.

SKETCHEh OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XXVII.

ADDITIONAL SUMMARY OF WORK DONE.

EDUCATIONAL.

One of the great hopes of our future is the education of the children.
They will be the future men and women of business, trade and traffic ;
gradually merging to the front to fill the vacancies of those who will have
slipped off the stage of action.

To fit them for these positions in life will re^juire education. They
must be taught by those who have already learned. It is the teacher's
office to teach, but the scholars to learn. The lack of education was one
of the drawbacks of the past. Separated as our people were, into small
settlements, they found it difficult to procure a proper systeui of education ;
things are now much better, and the children of to-day have at their dis-
posal chances which their fathers had not.

We have the various Boards of Education, with their scholastic and
energetic superintendents, annually labouring to extend the blessings of
their work throughout the land. The educational advantages of the pre-
sent far surpasses those of twenty years ago, and still lliey continue to
improve as the years roll on. Our educational boards are a fulcrum of
moral and intellectual force, still i)rogressing, until finally they shall amal-
gamate, and give to Newfoundland one common school for one common
people. Could our educational authorities, or our legislature, give to the
small outports one good school with a teacher decently paid, they would
confer upon teacher and taught a benefit lasting in its results. While we
felt glad to see our small places supplied with the means of conuuon
education, we also felt that one school would be better than two, and in
some cases three. In one harbour, not far from St. John's, two schools
were visited, and nine scholars composed the first, and twenty the sec )nd.
All these scholars would not compose a fair .school, and we are certain that
both salaries put together would not be any too nuich for either of the
teachers, both of whom were men. Tiiis is how we now stand, but we are

H'4

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

If';!

m
m

advancing, and entertain high hopes that a remedy in some of these special
cases will soon take place. VV^ith so much unnecessary division we lessen
our power, and at the same time tax our educational grants with useless
and uncalled for liabilities.

It was the writer's privilege to visit some of our schools while passing
in and out the various harbours, and as he was always well received by the
teachers — male and female— it may not be out of place to give the follow-
ing summary :

At Bay St. George, South-side, the Methodist school taught by Miss
Mathews.

At Channel, the Methodist school taught by Miss Forsey. It was
intended to visit the C. of E. school also, but at the time at our disposal
the Rev. Dr. Pilot was conducting examinations, and we did not care to
obtrude.

At Burgeo, the large C. of E. school taught by Mr. Sumrrtrton,
assisted by Miss Ash. Here we saw a little girl, aged six, perform a per-
fect exercise in dictation. Only that we watched her write, while the
teacher — her father — gave it out, we could not be persuaded that one so
young could write so perfectly.

At Ramea, a small school taught by Mr. Kensella, under C. of E.
board.

At Pushthrough, the C. of E. school taught by Mr. Saunders. Here
we found the best average attendance of any school visited.

At Harbour Hriton, the C. of E. school taught by Mr. Sutton. Here
the best penmanship of all these schools was seen in the writing of Mi.ss
Simms. We also visited the Convent school, and were kindly received
by the sisters. They showed some paintings and drawings — the work of
Miss Hubert — and as far as our knowledge of art goes, we congratulate
both teachers and student.

At Belleoram, the C. of E. school taught by Mr. W. Smith, son of
Rev. Walter Smith, of Portugal Cove. This is a large school, and the
scholars showed good training, and sang several pieces with much spirit
and precision.

At Burin, the Metiiodist sciiool tau;i;!\t by Mr. Hilfyard, were we saw
brig'.U schv)!ars, sittin:.; in a splendid school room.

In all these schools vverij seen tl\L' boys and girls who, in a few years'
time, will have gro'.vii up to manhood and \v((manho(jd. Before them is
life's battle, with its niisolvcd mysteries and untrodden paths.

We cannot predict their future, we would not if we could ; but this
we can predit;t, that if they are well riite(i for the battle, well prepared for
the contest, they will come off victorious.

At each of these schools a short address was given, in which the
speaker ende.ivourod to impress upon the scholars the importance of
cdin'ation, and th-,' need of aocpiirinij; it w'ailj young.

Ik' wli ) wmihl fil! hi. plue !ii life, with honour,
Wu.st nt liiiiieir for that pl.tvC.

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

5.a\v

,,.1

Ihis
Ifor

[he
luf

CONCLUSION.

We have endeavoured to condense our remarks in distinct sentences.
There may be some unnecessary words, but we don't think there are any
unnecessary clauses. The writer does not believe in many words. The
division o; Christianity to which he belongs, at whose rail he was baptised,
and in whose interests he works, has in its rules one, which forbids much
talking in buying and selling. In his business career he has carried that
ort, xfid proved it good, and now that he has written this pamphlet, he is
st 11 ;' jfied to apply the rule.

There is too much lost time between buyer and seller, and volumes of
words are wasted in bargaining about nothing. Often when standing at
some counter, and seeing a cl. rk about to lose his patience, at the tedious
inconsistcicy of the would-be purchaser, we have felt that this rule could
afford somewhat more ventilation. Much time and many words are wasted
over very trifling transactions, which end in the customer going out the
door with the money in his pocket, instead of in the cash desk, while the
clerk patiently replaces the pile of well exhibited goods. Cases like this
are of too frequent occurrence. Perhaps we take the advantage because
we see see in the window the notice " No trouble to show goods," or " If
you don't see what you want, ask for it." Business men of every grade
know what it is to be bored by individuals who place no value on their
own time, and think that other people's hours are to be wasted, by listening
to their drivelling eloquence. There are some who almost seem to think
that they were born to be listened to, A good outspoken sermon from
each of our pulpits would not be out of place on this question.

Many people have yet to learn that young men behind counters are
not incarnations of patience. Nor should they be expected to be. Some
seem to forget, that goods handled over a counter do not turn into gold,
and that time is money every day, Could we remember these things, we
would greatly assist in shorteqing the long houri of the ^^^* aiiiitAnt,

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

We sometimes blame t'le proprietor for the long hour system, while at the
same time wc do all we can to make any other system impossible. Buyers
think nothing of taking half au hour to make a purchase which could hon-
estly be effected in ten minutes, and the profits on which are scarcely suffi-
cient to pay the insurance on the length of time. We think very little of
telling the seller he can make his goods cheaper, when we have seen on his
bill-heads the motto " No second price." In a word, we do all we can to
waste the time of an establishment, and then wonder why the clerks have
to stay in so late at night. We would almost sign a petition to get them
off earlier, but we are not willing to do it in a practical manner. Business
can be done so as to allow our young men to get clear at eight or nine
o'clock in the busy season ; but while buyers are so hard to please, it is
impossible. They like much talking about their transactions, and, there-
fore the Assistants Association will have to appeal to them, and not to their
employers.

It is customary to talk much in business, and what is customary is
difficult to overcome. This is often illustrated in our remarks about the
weather. We are so accustomed to saying, " It is a fine day," that often
when rain is pattering on the Hooded streets, and the sky dark with storm,
we, on meeting some acquaintance, will salute him by saying " Splendid
day," and so strong is the force of habit, that the acquaintance will answer,
" Yes, splendid day, indeed." By this time we have passed each other»
when, on discovering our miiitake, wc feel ishamed, and whistle »nd hum,
so as to hide our discomfiturf . Such is the force of habit. It is done
without thinking, and so with many words in business, like the goods we
wish to purchase, they are undervalued.

We trust that the reader will not find a superfluity of words in this
pamphlet. What has been stated is only what the writer saw, and what he
thought when he saw it, and what he still thinks. Every man has his own
ideas, and he has not the shadow of a doubt, as to the value of his country,
and her future development. He has only seen part of that country yet,
but hopes to see it ill. To see the valley of Exploits, and give to his
coujitrymen his idea of its future. The records of these pages are but a
faint outline of the places in question. The scenery and hills — some with
perpetual snow — the lake.i and ponds, the level patches of land, the thickly
wooded hill-side, and the rich soft soil, with the moderate temperature of
the atmosphere, all certify that Newfoundland will one day sustain a popu-
lation twice as large as the present,

SkEtCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

this
Ut he

own
^ntry,

yet,
his
)ut a

with
jickly
Ire of
topu-

While writing tb«se pages, it was suggested that a few plates would be
an improvement, by >v'ay of illustration. We agree they would ; but the
object of this pamphlet is to have it read, not look, d c\{. ^[nnyofthe
present day publications are more in the line of art th;i!i literature. To
look at the pictures is the object of some purchasers, but fur the pr • ,^nt we
leave t*^at to the children in the nursery. We have loi;^ tullowid St. Paul
in these things, who, "when he was a child, thought as uiu- ; l)ut when he
became a man, he put away childish things." When \ou see a reader
turning rapidly the pages of the book he peruses, and p;ning more atten-
tion to the pictures than the matter, you may rest assured th;U lie is either
a surface student, or else the book is a literary failure. We arc not con-
demning art, we a'' -e it : and had we the opportunity tomon o\v, would visit
the art galleries of the world. They are to be visited, but books are to be
read. Not lon{; ago the writer subscribed to a book, which was to be an
account of Africa, with illustrations. It has mostly proved to be illustra.
trptions of Africa, with an account.

If this pamphlet will not satisfy the public, except it be embelished
with illustrations, then the writer has failed in his intention. If his state-
ments are not clear enough to int* rpret themselves, and describe what he
saw, then he has failed in his first attempt to become an author. At the
same time he may say, that should his work be approved of by the reading
public, and their impartial verdict of i.s worth be encouraging, he will en-
large it to a book, with such illustrations and improvements as may be
deemed necessary. His store of unwritten ideas is not exhausted, and as
there are questions of importance, which some one, sooner or later, must
deal with, he may yet take up his pen in their discussion. Our country
must advance, and to assist in its advancement will require agitation on
impartial and unbiased lines.

It is not yet three weeks ago since Ite decided to publish his writings,
so that his time for revision and classification has been short. Between
the chapters and lines has been his business, to which he gives the preemi-
nence of all earthly things. There is only one thing that goes before his
work, and that is principle. When business cannot be kept in line with
that, he has always found it best to let it drop.

Some one asked him once, if he had ever read David Copperfield 1
He replied that " he had, but did not require to do so for the purpose of

SKETCHES OF OUR WEStERN SEA COAS+.

learning what life really was, because he lived Copperfield twice over in his
own experience. Besides he thought that David Copperfield would be a
better book, were it written in one third the words." The idea of a writer
should not be to fill out so many pages by creating volume. Quantity
should not be placed before quality. When travelling last summer, he
saw on a table a book entitled ' Great 'i'houghts.' Such a lofty title gained
perusal, but to the disappointment of the reader. Its chief contents were
made up of negro tales, and witty anecdotes, containing some truth, but
more trash. After turning over several pages the book was closed and
laid in its place on the table, with the verdict that ' Small Thoughts * would
be a more appropriate name. Many books are composed of gems buried
in trash. To take a lot of anecdotes and string them together, with a little
original matter between, is a very easy way to fill out pages and form a
book : a much easier way than Solomon found. — Ecdes.

Idle gibberish has no weight, and yet society abounds with it. We
have seen people so anxious to talk -we would almost say prate — over
their neighbours affairs, that it has been necessary to tell them to keep
cool, and not get out of breath. language is the crowning gift of the hu-
man race, and yet no gift has been so abused and prostituted. Those who
must have their say about everything, are the persons to whom no atten-
tion is paid.

When looking over the history of our nation, or the States of the
Union, we wonder if senators and commoners could not conduct their
debates in fewer words and plainer language. Even if we come to our
own legislature we can apply the same thought. When we hear of mem-
bers talking for hours, when less would do, we say of such, that they are
but the obstructionists of the lind over which they rule and the people
they represent. Dictation is not legislation, nor is quibbling opposition.
If so, then, it is second-hand opposition. One firm stand, backed up by a
square, positive No ! is worth half the specchs given. To waste the time of
any government by unnecessary cavil or dispute, is to put the colony to
unnecessary expense. Legislators meet to do the business of the country,
and should do so with as little hindrance as possible. If we aim to rule
people, the best way to prove our fitness for it is to show them that we rule
ourselves : for the proverb of the wise King is still true, viz., ** He that
ruleth his own spirit is greater than he that laketh a city."

Long dictating speeches in our House of Assembly have the same
effect as long sermons in our churches ; they miss the mark aimed at, and

SKETCHES OF OUR WESTERN SEA COAST.

are

10 pie

tion.

by a

\e of

ly to

itry,

rule

that

ime
land

cause the hearer to Ix no longer a listener, while they give the speaker

unnecessary laliour. It is said of Napoleon that on one occasion his army

faltered and grew faint : it was on the eve of one of his most important

victories ; to hesitate would have meant defeat. He called a halt, and

marshalled his mighty army around him ; for twenty minutes he addressed

them with living words of zeal and patriotisiu, and then commanded the

bugle sound of forward ! His army moved on, renewed and cheered by

their leader's words ; hence it is saitl, "that in a speech of twenty minutes

Napoleon conquored Europe."

Let us say, in conclusion, that we believe in our country ; she is ytt

destined to take her place in the trade and commerce of liritish North

America. We say trade and commerce, but not in government ; ever let

us hold sacred and inviolate that priceless gem called Responsible CJovern-

ment ; to once forfeit ii would be to forever lose it. By our geographical

position we are in the highway of ocean iraftic ; we are the key of the St.

I^wrence, and cannot be overlooked in the matter of short line travelling.

Our destiny is largely in our own hands, for what we do to-day tells on us

to-morrow. As some unknown writer has well said :

*' Our (Icctls are travelling with us from afar,
And what we have been makes us what wc are."

Our country's history has been well written ; and soon will be added
another volume by his honour. Judge Prowse ; we say well-written, but we
fear not a bit too well ri;ad. If we are to know her worth we sho Id read
her history ; and we therefore appeal to our young men, to our young
women, and to ourselves as a people, to read more in the future than we
have in the past. Books are wriiten at a cost of much labour and deep
thought; and the highest reward an author can have is to know his writings
are read. We bespeak, then, a large circulation for the coming new work.
Judge Prowse has made its contents an almost life-long study, and we feel
safe in saying that every man and woman will be the Ijetter of its perusal.

My work for the present is done. I have endeavoured to express my

views in plain words. If the effort will do any good, my reward will be

sufficient ; and if my countrymen are satisfied with it, llien I am satisfied

also.

We've told our tale ;

lUit some ilay may tell more,

Should more be learned.

THR BNt).

A 7'

MlLLf(iAN'SB()()K

liVD

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