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 -^^l^ C^ 
 
RSMINISENCES OF PeRSONAI, EXPERIENCE 
 
 And Research in The Eari.y Days 
 
 Of The Pacific Coast 
 
 From Alaska to Panama. 
 
 BY 
 
 Major William Down 
 
 fFOONDEB OF DOWNIEVILLE, CAL.] 
 
 le 
 
 ^ 
 
 -Press of- 
 
 The California Publishing Co. 
 
 San Francisco, Cai,. 
 
 1893 
 
375 
 
 #i a ;> Jl o t> 
 
 Pi 
 
 COPYKIGHTED BY 
 
 THE CALIFORNIA PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 ALL, RTGHTS BESEUVED. 
 
 I I 
 
TIopo told Its flattering talc: "romo sopk ye here— 
 "For couriiK'o, Kortiiiu' nives you sliiiiiiiK p)l«l! 
 "Rt'inove ttu' trcnsdro's niiintel an«l Ix'hold 
 "The glittering specks that from I eneath it peer, 
 
 "|,oi'"e home and frieniis, leaveall that you hold dear- 
 "As . n won tlu' fjo'dt'ii fleece of old 
 "Shall you have your rewanl— a hundred fold— 
 "Come, tarry not— your greatest chance is near!" 
 
 And so like Jason's Arponants they went— 
 Kach sinew strained, eacli liardy muscle bent, 
 \Vith(!ourage, youth and vigor, "who could fail? 
 
 Some ne'er returned, their story none could tell— 
 
 A fcv to-day in lofty mansions dwell, 
 
 But more, by fur, deny hope's Qattering tale 
 
 Chris M. Waage. 
 
 O the surviving members of the 
 ad\/ance guafd of gold hunters, 
 the California pioneers and their 
 descendants, cuho are noui living 
 throughout the United States, this 
 book is most respectfully dedicated 
 by the AUTHOR 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 In presenting this book to the public the publishers 
 feel assured that it is almost superfluous, to introduce 
 the author or dwell upon the merit which these 
 pages possess, as originating from the pen of Major 
 William Downie. As one of the very earliest pioneers 
 and gold seekers in California, Major Downie has be- 
 come a man of universal interest, while to some of his 
 discov3ries in the early days is due the fever heat of ex- 
 citement, which at that period, made the world's great 
 heart palpitate with double-quick pulsation, and sent 
 thousands of daring adventurers across the arid deserts 
 and the stormy main. 
 
 Too much cannot be said of the remarkable nature, of 
 which Major Downie is possessed, having been endowed 
 with a physique and general constitution, which at times 
 have carried him through the most desperate circum- 
 stances, the subject of these pages is mentally and 
 morally equipped with a temperament which enabled 
 him to successfully withstand the temptations that caused 
 the fall of so many others in the early days; while his 
 native generosity and amiability secured for him many 
 friends, who dearly prized his personality. 
 
 As a practical miner, Major Do\. ae is without a peer, 
 and even to this day his authority is acknowledged, and 
 his advice is taken by any working miner, and rarely 
 without benefit to the recipient. These pages tell of the 
 days when this experience was gained; the days on the 
 
< 
 
 Yuba, wlien, to honor him, his companions called the 
 settlement at the forks, Downieville, the name by wh.ch 
 it is known as yet; the days of hardships in the snow-clad 
 Sierras; the adventures in British Columbia and Alaska; 
 and the weird search for ixold in the Indian fjraves of 
 Panama. 
 
 It was only after repeated solicitations from his friends 
 that Major Downie allowed his notes to be given out for 
 publication. The material thus provided was entrusted 
 by the publishers to Mr. Chris M. Waage for compi- 
 lation and revision. Mr. Waage is a journalist and 
 literateur of some note, and he has spared no effort in 
 order to present Major Downie's papers in the most 
 acceptable form, retaining throughout, the simple modest 
 way of relating the story, which characterizes the original 
 manuscript. 
 
 In conclusion, the publishers wish to draw attention to 
 the illustrations, which have been chosen with a view to 
 depict the situations as far as possible. Some of them 
 have been reproduced from engravings dating back to 
 the very earliest days, when pictorial art of this class was 
 first introduced into California. 
 
 The Publishers. 
 
HURTINB F0R BBLD, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Introductory Remarks — At Home in Scotland — First Voyage — A 
 Sailor on the Lakes — Lumber Trade in Buffalo — The Gold 
 Fever — Round the Horn — San Francisco — Expensive Din- 
 ners — The Glorious Fourth — Generous Gamblers — Fun with 
 the Immigrants. 
 
 I have been asked by many friends to give to the 
 world, through a publication, some of my reminiscences of 
 the early days of gold hunting and adventures on the 
 Pacific Coast, and it is in complying with this oft re- 
 peated request that I have penned the following. 
 
 Some of the incidents described, may be fairly said at 
 one time to have helped to revolutionize the known world, 
 and for that reason must forever retain a certain interest. 
 
 The narrative throughout is based upon personal ex- 
 periences, observations and conclusions, and iS compiled 
 from notes, taken at the time; recollections, corroborated 
 by friends who were with me at the periods referred to; 
 letters, which have passed between myself and friends, and 
 from official reports bearing upon the circumstances 
 related. The correctness of my account is therefore 
 warranted, and, while it is not infrequent to read de- 
 scriptions of life in the early days, which are highly 
 flavored with unnecessary romance, I claim for my work 
 that in its details it corresponds with actual facts which 
 have now become part and parcel of the history of the 
 western coast of this great continent 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD. 
 
 ii^ 
 
 I was born in tlio city of Glasgow, Scotland, in the 
 year 1819. It was the memorable year when the terrible 
 masacre took place at the Manchester reform meetin*^. 
 James Monroe was then the fifth president of the United 
 States, and Georjje III was kini; of Great Britain. It was 
 in the days when such names as Shelley, Byron, Scott, 
 Coleridge and Wordsworth shone in the literary firma- 
 ment; the days of early steamboat traveling, and the 
 days that had not as yet seen the locomotive engines 
 dashing, snorting and fuming throug quiet fields. In 
 that same year the steamer Savannau, 350 terns, came 
 from New York to Liverpool in 26 days, and the passage 
 was reijarded as a marvel. There were then in the 
 whole of Scotland not twelve steamers, and only the 
 wheels of one stirred the surface of the river Clyde. It 
 seems long ago, and the world to-day seems scarcely the 
 same as in those da vs. 
 
 t/ 
 
 I was raised in Ayrshire. From quite a boy my mind 
 was bent upon adventure. When I saw the waves roll- 
 ing in through the North Channel, I knew from my 
 school books that they came from the great Atlantic, 
 and I longed to be on thcnn and sail away to different 
 parts of the great world. So, when I was old enough, 
 I shipped on board a vessel that carried coal between 
 different points on the coast. It was not exactly what I 
 wanted, but it fitted me for a larsrer undertakinof, when 
 a chance should afford itself, and when it came I was 
 ready for it. My first deep-sea voyage was to Australia 
 on a Glasgow vessel. I was in Sidney in the days, 
 when Botany Bay was made the inhospitable home for 
 thousands of condemned prisoners, whose greatest offense 
 in many instances consisted in shooting a jack rabbit in 
 the Squire's covers. I recollect seeing the landing of a 
 cargo of unfortunates who had been consigned to those, 
 then desolate, regions. From Australia we sailed to the 
 
1 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD. 
 
 9 
 
 East Indies and visited the Isle of France and from there 
 we went to London. 
 
 My next voyage was to America. I shipped at Done- 
 gal for Quebec in the old Spring Hill and arrived there, 
 determined to try my fortune in foreign lands, before 
 returning home. I had a varied experience. I first sailed 
 lakes Ontario and Erie. From there I drifted into the 
 lumber business on Grand River, established a store in 
 Dunvillo at the mouth of this stream, and ultimately, 
 in partnership with a man named J. C. Hay ward, became 
 interested in lumber yards on the Buffalo Shipping Canal. 
 
 I was stopping in Butlalo at the Love Joy Hotel, 
 when I first heard of the discoverv of cfold in California. 
 The result the rumors produced was magical. Men of 
 all ages and in all conditions of life got the gold fever, 
 and I among the rest. Some of the tales told were fab- 
 ulous, and the reports oftreasures found in some instances 
 were enough to entice any man of grit and daring to 
 challenge fortune As will be seen further on, many 
 even, who had neither of these qualities, ventured upon 
 the search for gold, prompted merely by the lust for gain, 
 and the hope, perchance, of escaping the yolk of poverty, 
 or the discomfort of narrow circumstances. At the 
 hotel the advisability of going to California to try our 
 luck had become a leading topic among a number of the 
 boarders, and at last I made up my mind to go. Being 
 a sailor I concluded that to travel by sea would be both 
 more comfortable and far safer than to trust ones self to 
 the chances of traversing vast deserts and encountering 
 hostile Indians. So I shipped from Boston for New 
 Orleans on board the brig Monterey. 
 
 I well remember the day of my departure for the far 
 West. It was the day before General Zacharias Taylor 
 was elected to the presidency, which was to be his only 
 
10 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 for one brief year. Political enthusiasm ran high, and 
 much achniration was expressed for the gallant soldier, 
 who had distinjxuished himself so much during^ the 
 Mexican war; but I cared little about politics and was 
 anxious to get away. 
 
 Arrived at New Orleans the next thing was to secure 
 passage to San Francisco Bay. The small vessels, going 
 by the Panama route, were crowded to their utmost 
 extent, and I concluded to try and work my passage on 
 some ship, going around the Horn. Fortune favored 
 me, and I was not long in finding the desired opportunity. 
 The clipper ''Architect," in command of Captain Gray of 
 Baltimore, was lying ready to sail, and a shipping master 
 informed me that just one man was wanted to sign articles 
 at once. I offered my services and the shipping master 
 kindly responded: "Take off that black coat," he said, 
 "and come to the office in the morning." 
 
 I did as he told me, and the next morninsf I siirned 
 articles, received two months wages in advance, and a few 
 hours after had made myself perfectly at home on board. 
 This was indeed a piece of good luck, for there were any 
 number of men in those days, who would gladly have 
 worked their passage out for nothing, and I believe I 
 was the only foremast hand who received any wages. 
 Everybody on board with the exception of the officers 
 was bound for the mines. The thirst for gold and ad- 
 venture had seized everybody, and, when after a long 
 and tedious voyage we ultimately dropped anchor in the 
 Bay of San Francisco, all hands left the ship at once, for 
 such was the custom in '49. 
 
 San Francisco at that period looked vastly different to 
 what it does nowadays. A number of the crew stayed 
 together, and we at once mpde our way for some place, 
 where we could camp for the night. I still remember 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 11 
 
 the names of Perkins, Pierce and Gibson as belonging to 
 our company, and there were more, whose names I have 
 forgotten. It was on the 27th day of June, 1849, that 
 we hmded. Tho weather was mild, and there was no 
 reason to waste money on hotel acconimodations, which 
 then were both scarce and ex})ensive, so we determined 
 to camp for the night in Hide Park. The name sounds 
 aristocratic enough, but the place itself was anything 
 but invitinir. The location of it was about where now 
 the Palace Hotel rears its lofty walls, and it derived its 
 name from the fact that here the old Spanish settlers 
 piled up their hides and horns, previous to shipping them, 
 and at the time of our arrival the ground was covered 
 with these goods arranged in bales and proper heaps. 
 Here we made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances 
 would permit, and spent the first night in the land of 
 gold, of hope and of opportunity. 
 
 After we had spent a few days in our new quarters 
 and got the lay of the land, we all succeeded in getting 
 work. Some of us found employment at handling lum- 
 ber, others at rolling casks and barrels up the beach as 
 fast as the lighter could bring them from the vessel, 
 while I with three or four others was hired to ballast a 
 brig, which was lying off the Mission. In order to get 
 aboard the brig we had to take a boat, which lay on the 
 beach at the foot of what is now Sansome Street, and I 
 well recollect the first morning, as we were walking down, 
 to this spot, encountering several men, who came run- 
 ning toward us and pretended to warn us against going 
 on board the brig, saying "They would do for us there.'* 
 These fellows, who belonged to the class, known as 
 "Sidney Ducks," reckoned without a host. We told them 
 that nothing could scare us, we had just landed after a 
 long voyage and nothing would please us better than a 
 
12 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 good live fight. When they hef»"d this, they concluded 
 to leave us alone, and we were no more troubled with 
 their importunities. 
 
 Labor was scarce then, as nearly everybody was mak- 
 ing for the mines, and work was therefore plentiful. We 
 received from $8.00 to $16.00 a day, but could not aflbrd 
 to enorage board and lodijiniif, for which the most exhor- 
 bitant prices were charged, and so made the best of it in 
 our own camps. Some of our passengers went to the 
 Parker 'House to board but had to mve it uo, as the 
 prices were too high. The Parker House was then tbe 
 principal hotel in San Francisco. It was situated on 
 Kearny Street, and the expense of staying at a hostelry 
 of that class in '49 may be imagined, when it is stated 
 that a good dinner cost from $8.00 to $12.00. No won- 
 der our passengers found their purses somewhat too small 
 for a prolonged stay at this liotel. 
 
 I remember one fellow traveler in particular, who by 
 the time he landed had become thoroughly disgusted 
 with salt beef and hard tack, and made up his mind to 
 go somewhere at once, where he could get a good dinner. 
 He was told that the Parker House was the place for him, 
 and so thither he went, having first put into his pocket 
 a Spanish Doubloon, which was worth about $10.00. 
 The dinner was a pleasant change in the diet of our friend, 
 and, after he had enjoyed it, he went to the counter and 
 threw down the gold piece to pay for the meal. The 
 clerk looked carefully at the coin, put it in the till and 
 ojave his customer four dollars in chano^e. "What is that?" 
 asked the stranger. "Your change," replied the clerk, 
 "your change for dinner," and then engaged in conversa- 
 tion with other customers. 
 
 As soon as the traveler got an opportunity he again 
 approached the clerk and asked him confidentially to 
 
 I 
 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 15 
 
 state what they charged for dinner at this establishment, 
 
 "Twelve dollars," said the clerk suavely, ''twelve dol- 
 lars — that's all sir." 
 
 "See here," said the traveler, holding out the four 
 dollars he had received as change, "if that is so, you 
 may as well take these other four dollars along with it, 
 as I can't get anything in this town for such a small 
 amount." 
 
 There are many scenes and incidents, that occured 
 during my first visit to San Francisco, which, although 
 they then puzzled me, now cause me to smile as I re- 
 member them. The first celebration of the Fourth of 
 July, which I witnessed in the weird and wondrous West, 
 left an indelible impression upon me. The festivities 
 were minus the more modern Chinese fireworks, but let 
 those who object to this mode of celebration, appreciate the 
 fact that the general tumult and noise was not produced 
 by anything so harmless. In '49 the glorious Fourth was 
 usihered in by drinking to the constitution in bumpers, 
 until the celebrants were half-seas over. Then began 
 the fun. Instead of firecrackers, pistols were used, in- 
 stead of sending up rockets, men would show their 
 adroitness with the gun by shooting through windowpanes, 
 hitting lighted lamps or candles and offering to shoot off 
 buttons from their friends' garments. One episode caused 
 quite a little excitement. An old Mexican, who had got 
 somewhat mixed in the political situation, hoisted his 
 native flag, but this so anno^^ed the Americans that they 
 forthwith pulled it down, and the old fellow in his dis- 
 gust rolled himself up in his colors and went to sleep. 
 
 Gambling was then carried on on a large scale all over 
 the city, and Faro and Monte were the most frequent 
 games. The banker would have a little tin cup by his 
 side, in which he would deposit all silver coins under 
 
14 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 half a dollar. This small chansre was termed "chicken 
 feed," and when anybody came in looking hungry or 
 thirsty, and seemingly in want of means to satisfy his 
 cravings, the banker would dive into the tin cup and take 
 from it a dollar or more, which he would hand to the 
 strani^er that he miijht Qot relief. There was a certain 
 spirit of magnanimity and generosity, which inspired all 
 who had plenty of money at that time, and it extended 
 even into those grades of the community, who made a 
 living by preying upon the folly of others. One more 
 incident I must relate, because at the time being it caused 
 much merriment at the expense of a number of "green- 
 horns," and characterizes life at that period. The 
 steamer from Panama arrived with a lar«;e number of 
 passengers, nearly all of whom were bcund for the mines. 
 Towards evening of the day when they had come ashore, 
 a number of the boys played a, joke on the new arrivals, 
 which none of them could possibly forget, harmless as it 
 was. They marched into town, forming quite a large 
 company. Every man was armed to the teeth, and they 
 were accompanied by a lot of Indians, who carried sacks 
 filled with sand and pebbles from the seashore. The 
 sacks were marked mucha oro, and the whole caravan 
 presented the appearance of being a band of successful 
 miners, returning from the gold fields. The immigrants 
 would stop in amazement, wherever they came upon the 
 company, and ask all sorts of questions relative to this 
 apparently magnificent treasure, some of them expressing 
 their doubts that there would be any more gold left to 
 look for, others talking hopefully of the brilliant prospect 
 before them. Of course the initiated enjoyed the joke 
 hugely. 
 
 Such w^as life in San Francisco in the early days, and 
 such the men, who laid the foundation for a great and 
 magnificent city. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 On Board the Milwaukee— No Clearance Papers— Going up the 
 River— Sacramento — Teamsters Talk— Off for the Yuba— 
 First Experience— War upon Foreigners — A Silent Friend — 
 Store Keeping — Lumpy Gold — Restless — Foster's Bar — Sick 
 Men with Great Appetites — In Search of a Partner. 
 
 I was now (jetting^ tired of life in San Francisco, little 
 as I had seen of it, for indeed the greater part of my 
 time had been taken up with work, and I was saving my 
 money till such time, as I should want it for the purpose 
 of going to the mines. It was not then always an easy 
 matter to hold on to one's cash. Alluring temptations 
 were thrown in the way of the newcomer from all quar- 
 ters, and the chances of the gambling table induced many 
 a foolish fellow to part with the coin, which might have 
 opened far brighter prospects to him, had he stuck to it, 
 and disbursed it more judiciously. But outside the 
 gambling resorts all manner of devices were invented 
 by cunning schemers, whose designs were to profit by the 
 youth or inexperience of the immigrants, for the purpose 
 of enriching themselves. 
 
 The Schooner Milwaukee was getting ready to go to 
 Sacra Diento, and I took passage on her. She was a small 
 craft of about fifteen tons, carrying a general cargo of 
 merchandise and a number of passengers as well. It 
 was on the 5th of July 1849 that we left San Francisco 
 with the excitement of the great national holiday fresh 
 in our minds, and the effects of patriotic drinks still heat- 
 
IG 
 
 HUNTING KOR GOLD 
 
 ■ I 
 
 lit: 
 
 ing the brow of some of our fellow passengers. I for one 
 was particularly pleased to get away from the reckless 
 city, where it seemed to nie that men's passions were 
 worked up to fever hoat, and where everything was done 
 to excite them. I had not then even a forecast of the 
 scenes that should open to me. I little dreamed that the 
 quiet of the mountains and the silence of the valleys 
 were even at that hour echoinof with the thunder of 
 human emotions; that nature in its holiest solitude was 
 being made the theater, in which was enacted the most 
 powerful scenes of human aspirations, degradation and 
 often vice in its most hideous form. The sentiment of 
 hope was predominant with all of us, and I fully believe 
 that every man on board depicted to himself treasures of 
 his own, greater than any on which Aladin's lamp threw 
 its magic light, and fondly believed that the labor of 
 months would secjure to him years of ease and plenty and 
 a life of unbroken satisfaction. Alas for hope! The few 
 verses at the beginning of my narrative express pretty 
 nearly what became of the gold seekeis. The tracks of 
 some few led to gilded halls, but far aore lead to dom- 
 icils, where disappointment told her story in the modest 
 larder, while there are many whose tracks were never 
 found; whose voices were stilled in the midst of the brawls 
 and on whose unknown graves no tears were ever shed. 
 
 The traveler who to-day goes to Sacramento, comfort- 
 ably seated in a railroad car, or even by the little river 
 steamer, can hardly imagine what our journey meant. 
 The accommodations on the schooner were extremely- 
 scanty, and in regard to room, the hold and the deck 
 cabin were pretty much on a par, while the deck itself was 
 so full of all sorts of cargo that it was almost an impos- 
 sibility to get the necessary exercise. If one wished to 
 lie down, he had to remove some of the cargo from the 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 17 
 
 ew 
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 1 
 
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 )m- 
 
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 lest 
 
 ■ ' 'i^S 
 
 ver 
 
 
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 d. 
 
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 Dri- 
 
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 v^^l 
 
 mt. 
 
 
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 Aras 
 
 
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 the 
 
 
 hold, put it on deck wherever he could find space, and 
 rest himself on the barrels below, where he might remain 
 aa long as he pleased and could bear the suftbcating 
 atmosphere of the limited space. There was no cheering 
 bell that called to meals; no happy conversation over a 
 v/ell laid table for everybody was told to bring his own 
 grub or go without it, and for this kind of a passage we 
 were charged one ounce of gold or the equivalent in 
 silver. 
 
 After a good deal of pulling and hauling we got under 
 way and things went all right until we reached Benicia. 
 Here our craft was boarded by Uncle Sam's officers, and, 
 as our captain could show no clearance papers from the 
 port of San Francisco, he was told to return and secure 
 them before we could proceed any further. Conse- 
 quently the Milwaukee had to come to, and we lay there 
 for three long days, while the captain took a trip back to 
 San Francisco and returned with the necessary docu- 
 ments which enabled us to continue our voyage. It was 
 a tedious undertaking to go up the river. There was 
 very little sailing done, and in order to make any head- 
 way at all we had to pull and warp the old hulk most of 
 the way, and everybody took a hand to help along, 
 There was a good deal of impatience manifested at times, 
 but on the whole the crowd put up with the inconven- 
 iences fairly well, most of them consoling themselves 
 with flatterinfy thoug^hts of the Gold t)io:i»intrs and their 
 expected success there. , 
 
 After a voyage of eleven days we reached Sacramento. 
 The people we met here were mostly of a different stamp 
 from what we had seen in San Francisco. There was 
 considerably more of comparatively legitimate business 
 done here, as the men came down to this city from the 
 mines to deposit their find and purchase rations. The 
 
T 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 19 
 
 teamsters did a trenicndotis busineps and took load* oi 
 provisions and all sorts of necessaries of life on the gold 
 fields, in all directions, wherever the gold-seekers were, 
 or the storekeepers catered to the adventurers. It was 
 therefore a matter of course that we first consuUed the 
 teamsters, as to where we might go with the best chance 
 of success. They in return seemed to agree that the 
 American River was the best place for us. We were 
 told that it was a good deal nearer than the Yuba, and 
 that gold was panning out there as well as on any of 
 the fields. 
 
 We were as yet undetermined when I happened to 
 meet Mr. J. Rose, who was going to the mines on the 
 Yuba, with goods. His accounts of the location decided 
 me, and we agreed to work the launch up the Yuba as 
 far as Nye's ranch, which is now known as Marysville. 
 We then procured a case of brandy, preserved meats, 
 and other necessary articles, stowed them away in the 
 stern sheets, and a fair wind springing up, we set sail. 
 The next morning we were at Vernon's, and after a two 
 days voyage arrived at Nye's Ranch, when those of us 
 who were bound for the mines, left the frail craft, and 
 set out on our inliifrimaiie. 
 
 There were three of us, and we were buoyant with happy 
 anticipations as we made our way to Rose's Bar, where 
 we learned that there were diggings further up the 
 river, and determined to push up to Bullard's Bar. 
 Here we bought a rocker for twelve and one-half ounces, 
 and now we stood at the gate that should lead us into 
 the promised land. It seems strange now to think back 
 upon our first experience in trying to find gold, and the 
 primitive manner in which we w^ent to work. The three 
 of us divided the labor, so that one worked the rocker, 
 while the other stirred, and the third used the pick and 
 
HUNTING FOR OOT.D 
 
 21 
 
 sliovel and carried the dirt in a hag, about a panful at a 
 time. I honestly believe that I could now run one day's 
 vvoik through in one hour, pick, shovel, rocker and all. 
 We used a scoop about the size of a cigar box for wet- 
 ting the dirt. It had a long hatidle to it, and when the 
 water was thrown on the dirt it would be stirred up, a 
 process somewhat similar to making nuish. 
 
 The weather that summer was extremely hot, and 
 the temperature in the middle of the day became almost 
 unbearable, more especially to those who had not yet 
 become acclimated. It was a common thinof amons: 
 new arrivals to take a siesta of several liours in the 
 middle of the day, owing to an idea, generally imported 
 from home, that it v/as not healthy to work during 
 mid-day hours in California. 
 
 At Bullard's Bar some of the singular scenes of min- 
 ers' camp life in those days began to unfold themselves 
 to me, and here, for the first time, I saw a party organ- 
 ized for the pur[)ose of driving away ''foreigners". 
 What was implied by the term "foreigners" was not 
 exactly clear to me at that time, and it would be hard 
 for me to explain it even now. The little company so 
 organized, consisted of from twenty to thirty men. 
 They were armed with pistols, knives, rifles and old 
 shotguns, and I remember distinctly that they were 
 headed by a man who carried the stars and stripes in an 
 edition about the size of an ordinary pocket handker- 
 chief 
 
 Not far from where we were working, these brave 
 warriors made a halt and rested for a while, and I took 
 the opportunity to ask one of the men, where they were 
 going, and for what purpose. In reply I was told in 
 tip-top Tiperrary brogue, that the expedition had set out 
 for the purpose of exploring the river thirty miles up 
 
22 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ■ii' 
 
 and dowa with a view to driviiuj: away all "foreij^jncrs." 
 The crowd was a motley one, and as to nationality, 
 somewhat mixed. Irishmen were marching to drive off 
 the Kanakas, who had assisted brave Captain Sutter, of 
 immortal fame, when he was in difficulty with the 
 Californians. They were joined hy Dutchmen and 
 Germans, who could not speak a word of En<jjlish, hut 
 were jabbering together in their own harsh jargon, while 
 
 CAPTAIN JOHN A. SUTTER. 
 
 none of them had ever been in the United States. 
 Then there were a few New Yorkers, who really went 
 out for the purpose of looking after a good claim, already 
 opened, but all had joined hands in the alleged common 
 interest of protecting the native soil (for that was really 
 the only native feature about it), against the invasion of 
 "foreigner?." 
 
 I never learned whether this expedition met with any 
 success or not, and whether they derived any benefit 
 
HUNTING rOR GOLD 
 
 28 
 
 from their undortakin<j^. I worked along with my part- 
 ners through tlie nw^nths of August and Septeniher, 
 when we began to discuss the advisabiUty of getting out 
 of the mountains. Matters were not altogether satis- 
 factory. I suffered from scurvy, and our food was not 
 of tl-.e best, as provisions were getting very scarce and 
 prices had risen ii proportion. I had tried to wing-dam 
 some of our claims, so as to find out whether there was 
 anything in the bed of the stream or not, but my efforts 
 had proved futile, as we could not succeed in drying the 
 claims. I cannot say that wo felt disheartened at our 
 difficulties, but the circumstances could not be called 
 encourajrint', and we recognized the fact. 
 
 There was one thing, about this time, which caused me 
 a good deal of trouble and considerably puzzled my 
 imagination It was the mystery with which the miners 
 surrounded all matters appertaining to prospecting. 
 One man in particular put my patience to a test in this 
 regard, and it was his reticence which ultimately caused 
 me to receive a lesson on some of the points of etiquette 
 observed among miners in those days. 
 
 The man I refer to was the same who had sold 
 me a rocker for the trifling pay of twelve ounces 
 and a half. I was in the habit of occasionally calling 
 at his camp, and always found him particularly friendly 
 and aftable. It seemed, therefore, strange to me that, 
 while he would converse with me freely on all other 
 matters, as soon as I asked him for any information in 
 regard to finding gold, he became as dumb as the pro- 
 verbial clam. He belonged to a company from 
 Waterloo in the State of New York, and he used to 2"o 
 out prospecting, staying away often from eight to ten days 
 at a stretch. It was more in particular, when he re- 
 turned from these trips, that I used to visit him. I 
 
 ^ ; 
 
24 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 :U ■ I 
 
 ii 
 
 I 
 
 li .i 
 
 Si 1 
 
 in I 
 
 knew that there was soinethiriir called Wambo's Bar: 
 that the gold became finer about this locality and ulti- 
 mately ran out altosrether, and I also knew that a Mr. 
 
 Van (sonu'thing) used to go out prospecting with my 
 
 friend. But to all my interrogations as to where they 
 had been, what succesa they had met with, or anything 
 else that came natural to me to ask, I received evasive 
 ansv/ers, or no rcspcmse at all, until one day my friend 
 made me acquainted with the code that guided a min- 
 er's toniiue in those reijjions. 
 
 "Look here young fellow," he said, "if there is a thing 
 a miner don't care to talk about, it is where he has been, 
 and you might say that io is just as good as law among 
 prospectors, that every man keeps mum. Let me give 
 you a bit of advice: When you get to feel that way 
 yourself; that you have struck it rich in a new prospect, 
 don't you advertise your good luck and have a band play- 
 ing outside your tent to celebrate; but after sundown, 
 when everything is settled in camp, and your nearest 
 neighbor is snoring loud enough to compete with a 
 cathedral organ, you just pack your traps on your back 
 and skip out ot" camp ; and if you should meet anybody 
 on the road, who should ask you where you are going, 
 just tell them that you have had poor luck and are mak- 
 iny; back for town But the next mornina:, brio-ht and 
 early— or as soon as you can reach it — stick your pick 
 into your new claim and work it for all it is worth, before 
 anybody comes to interfere with your happiness." 
 
 This visit to my friend settled in my mind the fact 
 that I could find out nothing by inquiry, and that if I 
 wanted to learn anything, I must depend upon my own 
 experience. Just about this time I had my finger badly 
 jammed with a rock and had to go to Foster's Bar to 
 have it dressed, for which I paid one-half ounce, and as 
 
 <i* 
 
 M 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 25 
 
 • ■•3/ 
 
 I was partly hors-de-combat for the time being and 
 needed a rest, I divided the dust with my mates, and 
 went into store-keeping. 
 
 But I soon discovered that store-keeping did not isuit 
 me, and I had not been long in it, before I wished to 
 get out again and away to the mines. One morning two 
 men came in to purchase something. They had three 
 mules with them, heavily laden, and they stated that 
 they were on their way to Foster's Bar, but had lost the 
 trail. After they had bought the goods, they paid me 
 in lumpy gold, and left. Now this incident told a tale 
 " t the same time as it settled a question that I had often 
 asked myself, and in response assured me that they were 
 washing gold higher up the river'. 
 
 I made up my mind at once that I was going to have 
 some of that gold myself, and accordingly stored away 
 what goods I had and went to Foster's Bar, where I 
 bought a horse and a mule for the expedition. During 
 the first night, the horse was either stolen from me, or 
 it strayed away, but I was anxious to proceed on my 
 journey at once, provided I could find somebody who 
 would join me, and I made inquiries all through the 
 camps with a view to finding a partner. Foster's Bar, 
 at this period, presented a singular appearance. It was 
 crowded with men, and if one went up to the camps, his 
 olfactory organs w^ould perceive in a somewhat disagree- 
 able manner, the perfumes of pork and slap-jacks, arising 
 from a hundred frying-pans, and causing an odor, which 
 could only be compared with all the soap factories in 
 Ohio, frying out at full blast. There was much sick- 
 ness about this place at that time, and I do not wonder 
 at it, for the smell of the place was enough to make any 
 body feel out of sorts In almost every tent some- 
 body was sick, and every here and there a squalid- 
 
26 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 i 
 
 lookinoj individual miijht be seen crawlinjy on his hands 
 and knees to his tent door, througrh smoke and dust, 
 (not gohl dust however), but even these invalids would 
 devour half-cooked slap-jacks, or whatever grub was at 
 hand, apparently with the greatest relish, for it is a 
 well-known fact, that in 1849, sick people had as good 
 appetites as those who were well and able to work. 
 
 It is not to be wondered at, that in this crowd I failed 
 to find companions for my expedition. I had everything 
 ready to go, and had bought a United States rifle and 
 one of Allen's pepper boxes, but I was doomed to disap- 
 pointment. Twice I had the promise of company, but 
 both times the parties backed out, and the season was 
 now so far advanced that I almost gave up the idea of 
 going this fall, and returned to Bullard's Bar, where, it 
 will be remembered, I had the balance of my goods 
 stored. Among the things, I had here a small quan- 
 tity of brandy, a liquor highly prized in those days, and 
 also some lime juice, which was used extensively on the 
 dio-o^iniys as an antidote for scurvy. 
 
 I now thought I was settled at store-keeping for the 
 winter, but I was to breathe the mountain air and pur- 
 sue my search for treasure sooner than I had anticipated. 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
the 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Off for the Mines Again— The Early Discovery of Gold— A 
 Free Mason of 1820 — An Interest ng Document in San 
 Francisco — Did the Priests Hold the Secret? — Captain W. 
 H. Thomas' Account— Under the Wild Onions— "Cut-Eye" 
 Foster — A Sickly Man from Massachusetts — ^Jim Crow is 
 Introduced — Over the Range — Facing the Wilds. 
 One day some colored men came into my store. They 
 were working below the bar, and after taking a drink 
 they became genial and began to talk about the diggings 
 up the river. I gave them to understand that I was 
 desirous of exploring those regions for the purpose of 
 prospecting, and after a little while they all agreed to 
 join me in the attempt to find gold there. Once more I 
 closed my store. Whatever was of any use to us, 
 I packed, ready for the trip, and wound up my business 
 in short order according to regular California style. 
 We then went as far as Foster's Bar, where we crossed 
 the river, and on the night of October the 5th, 1849, 
 we camped on the hills, Once more I was off in search 
 of treasure, and as I rolled myself in my blanket that 
 evening, I thought of the ''lumpy gold," the two men 
 had brought to my store some time ago, strange 
 visions floated across my mind as I closed my eyes, 
 and in my dreams I fancied that I was unearthing un- 
 told millions of hidden treasure. 
 
 I cannot here refrain from commenting upon the dis- 
 covery of gold in California. It is a universal idea that 
 gold was first discovered in these parts in the year 
 1848, and we, who were among the early seekers for 
 
 27 
 

 II i1 
 
 J! 
 
 butter's mill, COLOMA, CAL. WHERE MARSHALL FIRST DISCOVERED GOLD, 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 29 
 
 the precious metal, undoubtedly flattered ourselves that 
 we unearthed secrets which had been hidden from time 
 immemorial This however was only partly true. It 
 is a fact that we found gold in locations where hither- 
 to it had never been known to exist, but on the whole, 
 California was then known to many as a gold-bearing 
 country. 
 
 On that October night, to which I have referred, I, 
 for one, considered that we were among the original dis- 
 coverers, but I soon had experiences, which persuaded 
 me that I was mistaken. It was not an uncommon 
 thing to fall in with Indians, who offered gold for trade, 
 and it seemed reasonable to conclude that if the In- 
 dians knew of its presence at that period, they might 
 have known it long before, 
 
 I have since learned that the records of the Mon- 
 terey Custom House show that between 1838 and 
 1846, during the Spanish rule, as much as $5 000 
 in washed gold or gold dust was exported to various 
 parts of the world. During that same period one Don 
 Alfreds Robinson, who came to California in 1828, took 
 $1,000 worth of gold to Philadelphia on behalf of Don 
 Abel Stearns of Los Anoele^, and delivered his iroodsto 
 the mint in the quaker city. The same Don Abel 
 Stearns, who had a store at Los Angeles, which was the 
 most important establishment in the whole region, was 
 a Massachusetts man, who had received the Spanish 
 title. In 1820 he was made a Master Mason in the 
 Washington Lodge of Roxbury, and, probably because of 
 his affiliation with this important craft, he met with the 
 most pronounced success in his career. In 183G, at the 
 age of forty, he married a Miss Bandini, who was then 
 only fifteen years old, and in addition to being esteemed 
 the greatest beauty of California, was the daughter of 
 
 B^l 
 
80 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 one of the most prominent Spanish gentlemen. Stearns 
 accumulated a considerable fortune during his time, and 
 a great deal of it was obtained through trading gold from 
 the Indians. 
 
 In regard to the cargo of gold which Robinson took to 
 Philadelphia in 184"2, there exists a document, represent- 
 ing the certificate of deposit at the mint, and this inter- 
 esting paper may still be found among the archives in 
 the Pioneers' Hall in San Francisco. 
 
 When the ([uestion is asked how the fact of the 
 presence of gold could b^ withheld from the outer 
 world for so lonir, tlie answer suii;(>'ests itself, that the 
 secret was ke])t through the efforts of the priesthood. 
 
 This particular matter has been al)ly discussed by Cap- 
 tain W. H. Thomas, president of the New England 
 Society of California Pioneers, who paid his first visit to 
 California as early as 1843. In a letter addressed to 
 the BosTOX Herald the Captain writes as follows: 
 
 "This supremacy was at its highest in 17 Go, when 
 from the missions in San Diego a chain of twenty-four 
 missions was extended northward, Junipero Serra was 
 Priest-President of all the missions in California, and 
 was an intelHgent, persevering, enterprising man. He 
 was not only instrumental in founding mission after mis- 
 sion, but he added to the herds thousands of sheep and 
 cattle. 
 
 "I have been six times to California and have talked 
 with priests of many nationalities — Mexican, Spanish, 
 Irish and American — and I am confident, from what they 
 say that Junipero Serra knew about the gold ; but he 
 was a simjcular character, and ruled with a hand of steel, 
 so that gold was a word that no one dared to utter. He 
 had the history of Peru and other foreign countries in 
 his mind, and he knew that an influx of gold-hunters 
 
 I 
 
 ■4 
 
 
ho 
 
 ;oel, 
 
 He 
 
 s in 
 
 ters 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
I '! 
 
 1 
 
 o2 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ! 1 
 
 
 meant terror and destruction and the failure of all his 
 great plans. 
 
 "It is claimed that the first discoveries were in 1848, 
 when the whole world was turned topsy-turvy with the 
 astonishing news. 1, myself, was in California in 1843, 
 and stayed there three years, and I. can positively say 
 that gold was known here then, for I saw it in Monte- 
 rey. On Sundays the Indians would come into town, 
 naked except for a cloth around their loins, and exchange 
 a little pinch of gold for a drink of arguadiente or na 
 tive rum. No one knew where they got the gold, hut 
 sometimes they would have several dollars' worth of the 
 precious dust. This was an old custom, i'or at Mission 
 Carmel I interviewed, through an interpreter, an aged 
 Indian, who said that when he was a hoy gold was 
 found in the mountains and rivers round about, and the 
 natives would wash out a ])anful in order to get a good 
 drunk on Sunday, which Christian Indians were forbidden 
 to do He thouu'ht that there was still i>old in the nioun- 
 tains, but he was so old that he had forojotten where it 
 was. 
 
 "In 1844 Andres Castillero, the same person who 
 afterward discovered the New Almaden quicksilver 
 mine in Santa Clara county, while traveling from Los 
 Angeles to Monterey, found near the Santa Clara river 
 a great number of water- worn pebbles, which he gathered 
 up and carried with him to Santa Barbara. He there 
 exhibited them, said they were a peculiar species of iron 
 pyrites and declared that, according to Mexican miners, 
 wherever they were found there was a likelihood of gold 
 being also found. A ranchero named Francisco Lopez, 
 who was living on the Piru creek — a branch of the 
 Santa Clara river — but who happened at the time to be 
 at Santa Barbara, heard Castillero's statements and ex- 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 3 
 
 f 
 
 "^ 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 33 
 
 aiiiined his speeitnens. Some months afterward, havintr 
 returned home, he went out to search for strayed cattle. 
 At noon, when he dismounted from his horse for the 
 purpose of resting, he observed a few wild onions grow- 
 in<f near where he lay. He pulled them up and in so 
 doino" noticed the same kind of pebbles as those to which 
 Castillero had called his attention. Remembering what 
 Castillero had said about them he took up a handful of 
 earth and upon carefully examining it discovered gold. ■ 
 The news of this discovery, at the place which was 
 called San Francisquito, about thirty-five miles north- 
 east of Los Angeles, soon spread. In a few weeks a 
 great many persons were engaged in washing and winnow- 
 in<r the sands and earth in search of crold. 
 
 "The auriferous fields were found to extend from a 
 point on the Santa Clara river about fifteen or twenty 
 n\iles from its mouth over all the country drained by its 
 upper waters, and thence easterly to Mount San Bernar- 
 dino. 
 
 "On May 14th, 1843, Alvardo wrote to the Prefect of 
 the district, reproving him for not having given official 
 notice of the discovery, and directing him to gather and 
 forward an account of all circumstances of interest relat- 
 ing to the gold, for transmission to the Supreme Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 "From that time to the present day there has been 
 more or less working of these mines, but no places of very 
 great richness have been found, and none to compare 
 with those afterward discovered on the tributaries of the 
 Sacramento and San Joaquin." 
 
 The reader will no doubt pardon my deviating from 
 the straight narrative, which I will now resume, but the 
 matter presented in Captain Thomas' letter seems to me 
 well worth quoting. On the morning of the 6th of Octo- 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 
I' ll 
 
 84 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOI.D 
 
 ii >! 
 
 ^ii 
 
 ber, we assonibled at the spring and liad l)rc!akfast, and 
 then a consultation took place ainonijf some of us, as to 
 who should join the expedition, and who should stay 
 behind. 
 
 The reason for this was that there were about forty 
 Kanakas, who had worked with the colored men at my 
 camp, and who now wanted to join us. But as they 
 had neither money nor rations, they expected to live on 
 our provisions during our prospectinj^ tour, and as we 
 did not propose to make pre-arrangements for a famine 
 in camp, we came to the conclusion that the Kanakas 
 must stay behind. I therefore told them that if they 
 intended to come with us, they must look out for 
 themselves, as we could not spare them any provisions, 
 neither did we know where we were sjfoinyj, nor when 
 we should return, and our chances of starvation were 
 quite as good as our chances of success. 
 
 This decided the matter and limited our company to 
 two white men, including myself, a white boy named 
 Michael Duvarney, who proved himself a little hero, and 
 seven colored men. I soon perceived that my Cauca- 
 sian companion — I mean the adult — was not the kind 
 of person to do any good in the wilds of the mountains. 
 I think the poor fellow was from Michigan, and he was 
 one of the most dejected looking objects I ever beheld. 
 I first thousi'ht that he was love-sick, but when I saw 
 him spending his evenings at the camp-fire swallowing 
 Brandreth's pills as quickly as a chicken would eat 
 dough, I concluded that it was his stomach, and not 
 his heart which was out of order. At all events, his 
 presence was a decided damper on the whole company, 
 with his melancholy appearance, his pills and his spleen. 
 I soon discovered that the rest thouofht with me, that 
 our Michigan man was not a fit subject for our company, 
 
 k 
 
 '€■ 
 
HUNTING KOR OOIj:) 
 
 ;i5 
 
 aiul wIr'11 we came to tlio Slate Ranijfo, I advised 
 him to return, A few words al)out the liardsliips tliat 
 awaited us, the cliances of bein^ torn to pieces by griz- 
 zlies, and other minor matters, which might impede our 
 march to success, soon persuaded our friend, in future, 
 to swallow his pills in more congenial surroundings, and 
 he returned, to the evident joy of all concerned. 
 
 While we were camped at Slate Ilange, one of our 
 men went back for a Kanaka and an Indian. The Ka 
 naka he returned with, was Jim Crow, whose name still 
 lives in those regions, and of whom I shall have more 
 to say later on. After his arrival we nK)ved to the 
 camp of *'Cut-Eye" Foster, whom I now mot for the 
 first time, and bought and distributed a supply of Hour. 
 Fluster's camp was then close to ours, in what was then 
 known as Oak Valley, and I tried my best to get all 
 possible information from him. He seemed to think 
 that prospects, in the comparatively unexplored regions, 
 were good, but held that it was now too late in the 
 season to venture so far into the mountains, and as a 
 matter of fact, we saw several white men returning. I 
 felt sure that had my companions belonged to the same 
 race, they would not have desired to go 'till spring, but 
 as it w^as, we were all determined to push on, and chose 
 our route, not along the river bank, as "Cut Eye" ad- 
 vised, but across the ridge by way of the present eleva- 
 tion of the Mountain House. 
 
 I have a lively recollection of getting ready to go, 
 when some of our men undertook to clean our fire-arms. 
 They took them all to pieces, and having made a roar- 
 ing fire, placed them upon it. Many of the barrels were 
 charged, and as they became heated they began to go 
 off, and a running fire was ke})t up for sometime. Shot 
 and bullets were flying in all directions, and everybody 
 
1 
 
 80 
 
 HUNTING FOR COLD 
 
 I 
 
 liuHteiicd to take shelter bi'liind tho trees. I was just 
 retiiniiii</ through the woods, and heariiiL? tlie fusilhide, 
 (|uickened my pace to see wliat the racket was about, 
 when I was suddeidv lialted hv niv own men, who 
 shouted to me to keep behind tlie trees. For a while I 
 was at a loss to understand the situation, but wluui I 
 realized it, I could not help .smilin<r, althouii^h I made it 
 understood that in future we would clean our fire-arms 
 in a somewhat difiorent manner. 
 
 We bade ^ood bye to "Cut-Eye," and made for the 
 wilderness with the winter close at hand, but we relied 
 upon our courage, our determination and our physical 
 strength. 
 
w 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Through tho Woods — Meeting Two (IrizzlieH — Across the River in 
 u Hurry — McNiiir's iHhind — Tho C'olor of Gold— Over th(* 
 llidge — We Strike tho lliver — A Noino in tho BuhIioh — Hound 
 tho Point — A Scene that Charmed Us — The Forks at Last — 
 Sullen Miners — IVIoving Camp — Mules on tho Hillside— Camp- 
 ed on the Yuba — Reminiscences of Philo Haven. 
 
 Wg had not gone very far, when we came upon two 
 small trees, whieh had been hlazed to indicate the road 
 to the river at Goodyear's Bar, hut we did not care to 
 start at this })oint and so kept up the divide, until we 
 reached a place where now stands Galloway's Ranch. 
 Here we made a halt and held a consultation as to how 
 to apprt)ach the river. Our journey resumed, we struck 
 a l)lind trail, which left us in the midst of the thicket, 
 hut we did not care to go back, and made our way 
 through the chapparal, until at last we reached the top 
 ot the ridge, which separates the two canyons, later 
 known as Jim Crow and Secret Canyons. No sooner 
 had we reached this altitude, than we met with an 
 adventure which rather startled us. As our mules 
 
 Were jogging along, carrying the pack, and we came 
 after, puffing and blowing with the exertions of the 
 ascent, a grizzly incjuisitively approached the animals 
 and so scared them that they started down the hillside 
 at a rate which would have done credit to any equine 
 racer, and for awhile we wondered whether we should 
 ever have the good luck to see our frying pans, rockers 
 and the rest of the outfit again. I did not see the bear, 
 and up to that time considered myself somewhat un- 
 
 87 
 
38 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 I 
 
 III 
 
 fortunate in regard to seeing the animal so characteristic 
 of CaHfornia, for he always got out of the way before I 
 could clap eyes on him, even when he succeeded in 
 scaring one of the company. One night however, as I 
 lay rolled up in my blankets and soutid asleep, I was 
 
 LOOKING FOR THE COLOR 
 
 roused by the warm breath of a grizzly, who quickly 
 decamped when I made a sudden motion, and he found 
 that the place v^as already occupied. But I was not 
 lono' to remain without an introduction to the Kinor of 
 the California forest. 
 
 'j 
 
 I 
 
 -J) 
 1 
 
 i 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 39 
 
 When we had pulled ourselves together after the 
 scare, and quieted the frightened mules, we started down 
 the hill aiM' ^iiuately made our camp at a point which 
 has since been called McNair's Island. Here some of 
 the company tried a pan or two of dirt, looking for the 
 color, but it proved pretty hard to raise. 
 
 Meanwhile, three of us took a stroll up the river to 
 explore the locality, and in sauntering back to camp, we 
 had the second adventure of the day. Charley Wilkins, 
 who was walking a little ahead, suddenly stopped, and 
 })ointing to a moving mass of something which was 
 coming forwai'd from the brush, exclaimed: "What is 
 that?" But he did not wait for an answer, for we all 
 simultaneously perceived that the unshapely object was 
 a huge grizzly, who came to bid us welcome. Never did 
 three men vacate the space they occupied more quickly 
 than we did. We fairly flew towards the river and 
 plunged in, making for the opposite shore at full speed. 
 
 The bank was high and steep, and in our endeavors to 
 climb up by holding on to grass or loose rocks, we fell 
 backwards into the water several times, splashing about 
 like young ducks and never even daring to look 'round. 
 When we ultimately got ashore there was not a sign of 
 the enemy, who evidently had never attempted to pur- 
 sue us. 
 
 We now made for our camp, and arming ourselves 
 with the whole arsenal at our command, all hands march- 
 ed out to kill the bear, but he had gone, leaving nothing 
 but his track. From that day henceforth however I 
 was satisfied that I liad seen a grizzly, and no mistake 
 about it. 
 
 As soon as we had returned from our fruitless pursuit 
 some of the company went across the river to a point 
 opposite Secret Canyon, where some work had already 
 
40 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOI.D 
 
 * 
 
 f 
 
 in 
 
 1 i 
 
 boeri done, and here we found the first gold since leaving 
 Builard's Bar. We moved our camp across to the flat 
 and went prospecting up and down the river. In some 
 iew places we found gold, but not in any quantity, as it 
 never ran over a dollar to the pan. The most gold seemed 
 to be at Negro Bar, situated a short distance from Omit's 
 Flat, but, seeing that the locality would not pan out 
 satisfactorily, we decided to strike camp and look for 
 the North Fork. Of this we had heard various reports 
 and, thinking that the best way to find it was by going 
 North, we steered our course up the hill in that di- 
 rection, leaving McNair's Island behind us. It took us 
 nearly half a day to reach the top of the steep hill, and 
 on our arrival there a poor prospect greeted us, for, al- 
 though we thought we could see from the lay of the 
 land, where the North Fork must be, it was by no 
 means clear to us how to get there. For the purpose 
 of finding water and also tlie best way of getting down 
 this dry and barren ridge, we now unpacked our traps, 
 and, dividing ourselves into two parties, we went about 
 reconnoitering the country. I, together with tliree 
 others, followed the ridge, in what I took to be the di- 
 rection of the Forks, and when we came to the rocky 
 point above Breyfogle Flat, we suddenly beheld the 
 river shining before us in the sunliiijht. Ah me, how 
 pleased we were at that sight ! We now knew tliat our 
 judgment had been correct, and we hastened down to 
 the stream and quenched our thirst in the rippling waters. 
 
 Two of the men wanted to go back at once, but 
 Albert and I were determined to proceed, and leaving 
 them behind, we kept on down the river. W^e had not 
 gone far, however, when we were overtaken by our com- 
 panions. 
 
 They had heard some mysterious sound in the bushes 
 
 H 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 41 
 
 beliind them, and the experiences of the day had made 
 them nervous. They were only too pleased to join us 
 ag-ain, and so we went along the river together, until we 
 came to the first island above the Forks, when they 
 once more insisted on returning. I then told them that 
 if they would only go round the next point with me, I 
 would go back at once, if nothing particular came in 
 view which demanded our attention, and to this they 
 consented. 
 
 I have often thcmght since how the curtain of fate 
 may be likened to the thinnest fabric of gauze, as it 
 severs us from circumstances or conditions, with which 
 we are united the moment it rises. Had those men 
 refused to listen to me that day, and prevailed upon me 
 to turn back before rounding that point, who can tell 
 what would have been my lot in after life ? It was the 
 traversing of those few hundred yards which decided so 
 nmch that afterwards became of interest to me, and 
 gave me for many years to come, friends, influence, even 
 renown, and to-day, notwithstanding bitter experiences, 
 many cherished memories. 
 
 As we rounded the point we beheld the Forks, the 
 place of which we were in search, and which afterwards 
 received the name of Downieville, while it became one 
 of the most prominent points in the history of the Gold- 
 en Age of California. 
 
 The scene that burst upon us was one of marvelous 
 beauty, and after these many years it still lies before me 
 like a lovely panorama, in my recollection of the moment 
 when I first saw it. The silence of the woods was 
 bioken only by the rushing of the meeting currents below 
 and the sou";hinof of the breeze throui>h the foliai^e. The 
 sun was in the western sky, causing a variation of light 
 and shadow to fall upon the landscape, which was ex- 
 
42 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 i 
 
 
 ceetlingly pleasing. The hillsides were covered with 
 oaks, bending their crooked branches in phantastic forms, 
 while here and there a mighty pine towered above them, 
 and tall willows waved their slender branches, as it were, 
 nodding us a welcome. They grew along the branch 
 of the North Fork, where now stands the Cravcroft 
 building, and on the present site of the St. Charles Hotel 
 stood a cluster of pines. Down on the very brink of 
 the river grew a beautiful ijjrove of Fir trees, and as we 
 
 So ' 
 
 approached, a frightened deer ran from the thicket and 
 made for the woods. Near a little spring, which bubbled 
 up and made the surroundings look fresh and verdant, 
 stood a few pieces of bark on end— the only sign that 
 human foot had ever trod this region, and further indi- 
 cating that here at some previous time the Indians had 
 camped. 
 
 Add to this the waters leaping over rock and bowlders, 
 and the clear azure sky stretching like a canopy over 
 the whole landscape, and you have the picture, as far as 
 I can describe it, that 1 first beheld, when I approached 
 the Forks. 
 
 When we came to the Junction of the two streams 
 and made our observations, Albert pointed out to me 
 the fact that the water in the North Fork was not so 
 clear as that in its sister branch. There could be but 
 one explanation of this phenomenon — that men were at 
 work somewhere above, "Hunting For Gold." None were 
 now inclined to return. Curiosity and suspense got the 
 better of reluctance and we started up the stream to ex- 
 plore, 
 
 After tramping a considerable distance we found that 
 our conclusions had been right. We heard voices and 
 the clanging of tools, and presently came upon a company 
 of three men, who were at work on a little bar, just below 
 
 I 
 
 ■If 
 
 
 :1 
 I 
 
HUNTING FOR GOI<D 
 
 4d 
 
 the Bluebanks. The men seemed considerably surprised 
 to see us, and as it were, at once, instinctively tried 
 to hide what gold they had in their pan, but one of our 
 boys caught sight of it nevertheless, and thus we were 
 assured, not only that there was gold in that location, 
 but also that it was quite different looking from what 
 we had seen at Bullard's Bar. 
 
 I tried to get into conversation with the three men, 
 but it was of no avail. When I asked them about the 
 diggings, they would answer me, **yes;" "no;" "dunno;" 
 "can't say," or pretend not to understand me at all, and 
 after a quarter of an hour, spent in interrogations, I was 
 no wiser than when I first started. I took a drink of 
 water, and lighting my pipe, tried them on a different 
 lay. 
 
 " What chance is there to get a claim here ? " I asked. 
 It seemed that I had struck the keynote of conversation 
 with them, for they at once became more communicative. 
 "The chances are slim," they said, but they had a 
 claim they would sell, and they went on using their best 
 powers of oratory in order to induce us to strike a bar- 
 gain, there and then, something which, however, none 
 of us would think of doing. These three men were 
 working there in one crevice, one digging, another 
 carrymg dirt and the third working the rocker, and, 
 from their manner of speech, there was every indication 
 that they verily believed that when that crevice was 
 worked out, there was no more gold to be found in Cal- 
 ifornia. 
 
 But their sullenness and reticence did not discourage 
 us in the least. We knew that if there was anything 
 to be had in these quarters, we had the right kind of 
 company for locating it, and we determined before many 
 days to make our new neighbors aware of the fact. So 
 
44 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOI.D 
 
 we left them to themselves and returned to our camp to 
 report progress, and there was much rejoicing that eve- 
 
 ning. 
 
 WORK [NO THE ROCKER 
 
 The next morning wo were up bright and early, and 
 struck camp to remove to the Forks. The trail was bad, 
 and every now and then a mule would slide down the 
 declivity, sometimes a hundred feet or more. In order 
 to keep them from going clear to the bottom we had to 
 use the long ropes, used for tying them up with at 
 night. We carried the one end coiled up in our hands, 
 the mule being at the other end, and when the animal 
 seemed likely to go too far down the hill, we slewed 
 him head up, or, in sailor parlance, headed him to the 
 wind. We had quite a hard time of it getting along in 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 45 
 
 I 
 
 -A 
 
 I 
 
 Si 
 
 •"•il 
 
 a 
 
 this rashion, moreover as it took us two days and one 
 iiii^dit to travel from McNair's Island to the F"orks, and 
 all the time without water. How different now, when 
 the same journey can be made in one brief hour, but 
 such are the changes wrought by time. 
 
 As soon as the thirsty nmles saw the water in the 
 river below, there was no more necessity for driving 
 them. They scampered off on their own account, and 
 never stopped till they stood in the water, drinking it in 
 long, refreshing draughts. We unpacked on Jersey Flat, 
 and I spent my first night at the Forks of the Yuba. 
 
 In the following pages I shall have considerable to 
 say about this spot and its surroundings, but, as I write 
 of my arrival there, I am put in mind of one of the very 
 first men I met in this locality, whom I have known in 
 after life as a friend and a gentlemen. This man is Mr. 
 Philo Haven. 
 
 Mr. Haven was round those qi^arters in the early 
 part of '51. Many years after he reminded me of the 
 Indian shelter, referred to, and agreed with me that 
 when I came on the ground, there was no other camp 
 at the Forks. He told me that when he arrived at 
 the South Fork he came upon a man skinning a deer, 
 and being hungry, offered him any price for a few 
 ]i()unds of the meat; but the fellow would not sell any, 
 not even when he was offered pound for pound — gold 
 for venison. Mr. Haven did not know that I was at 
 the Forks and had provisions, and when he made up 
 his mind to go up that way, he paid a fellow $160 for 
 a lot of half-decayed goods, which had been brought to 
 Goodyear's Bar from a deserted mining store. The 
 price was four dollars per pound all round, including 
 hams, ffour,. nails, tobacco and other necessaries, but the 
 edibles were hardly fit for eating. When he came ta 
 
46 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 •ft 'f < 
 
 "'ii 
 
 |i;; 
 
 \ i' 
 
 my camp, we were already well settled and kept a sort 
 of open bouse for all travelers, who were welcome 
 to share anything with us, which we had to eat. 
 Charlev Wilkins and Albert Callis, the two colored 
 men, would cook for them and make them feel at home, 
 and as far back as those early days I had become known 
 as Major Downie, and travelers in search of shelter or 
 relief were often told to go to Major Downie's cabin. 
 
 One thing I feel called upon to discuss here to some 
 extent — the first discovery of gold at the Forks. I am 
 aware that in one history of California, it is claimed 
 that Frank Anderson was the original discoverer, where- 
 as I claim that the precious metal was first unearthed 
 by our company, and in this, Mr. Haven agrees with 
 me, in as much as he considers it a mistake to give the 
 honor to Anderson. It is at all events a fact that this 
 man did not arrive at the flat till after we had been 
 there for some time. He, and another man named 
 Jack Culton, came along with Mr. Haven and were 
 engaged by him to work a small, rich bar, for which 
 they were paid fifty dollars per day, but the party did 
 not leave Bullard's Bar for the Forks, till the 9th of 
 January, '51. The bar that Mr. Haven was workino-, 
 panned out well, for after a comparatively short stay, 
 the company — four in number — left with 130 pounds of 
 Gold. For my own part, I merely claim that we were 
 the first white men who took out gold at the Forks, 
 and I firmly believe that the Indians were aware of its 
 presence there long, before our arrival. 
 
 if! 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Down to Business — A Fish Story — Lead Weights and Brass 
 Weights — Ore vicing — Breyfogle Flat — A Mule in a Hornet's 
 Nest — Mamoo the Egyptian — A Negro from Virginia — Rich 
 Finds — Treacherous Friends — Mr. John Potter — Flour Worth 
 More Than Gold — A Very Sick Man — On the Site of Downie- 
 ville. 
 
 I have remarked in the previous chapter that I relied 
 upon mycompany for finding gold in these environments, 
 if gold were to be found. I knew that as prospectors 
 wc had the right kind of men in our crowd, and as will 
 be seen, we soon had an opportunity to astonish our 
 sulky neighbors. 
 
 First of all we arranged matters so as to operate 
 systematically. One man was to keep camp, another to 
 look after the mules, and the rest went in twos or threes 
 up and down the river in search of patches, which 
 would be worth working. We made it a provision that 
 everyone should have whatever he happened to get in- 
 to his pan. Anyone, who chose to do so, might go 
 alone, but everybody had to report his day's doings in 
 camp at night. It was also made a rule that whoever 
 discovered any rich bar should have the first choice of 
 the ground, and I may say that these regulations were 
 strictly adhered to and found to be of great common 
 advantage. They prevented a good deal of underhand 
 work and gjave us all a fair chance in the undertakinof, 
 for without them, two men, for instance, might go out 
 together, and if they made a find, divide up between 
 them, and report no progress. a 
 
•)[ \\ 
 
 48 
 
 HUNTIN'd l'"OR GOLD 
 
 lltliiH;; 
 
 In speaking of our start at tlie Forks, I ain reminded 
 
 of what my reader will no doubt call a fish story It 
 
 is; but it is nev^ertheless a true one, and let this he said 
 
 with all due deference to any narrator of |)iscatorial 
 
 adventure. While we were cain[)ed on Jersey Flat, 
 
 Jiin Crow causjfht a monster salmon, weighin«>^ nearly 
 
 fourteen pounds. We boiled the fish in the camp kettle, 
 
 and afterwards, when we examined the water, we found 
 
 gold at the bottom of it. Truly those have been 
 
 appropriately called: 
 
 "The days of old— 
 The days of Gold." 
 
 We had a somewhat varied experience for some time 
 after our arrival in these parts. We discovered a 
 small bar at the lower end of Zumwalt Flat, which show- 
 ed a good prospect, and therefore moved our camp u[) 
 that way. It should be born in mind that I am calling 
 many of these places by the names they received after 
 my first stay there in '49. On Zumwalt Flat we went to 
 work with a rocker, and the first day washed out about 
 twelve ounces. As this looked very encouraging, we 
 stayed here, till we considered the bar worked out. 
 
 While in this vicinity I dug a hole near a small bar 
 that was afterwards named Tin-cup Diggings, and found 
 it would pay about one dollar to the pan. For some 
 time I worked by myself, but as I could get nobody to 
 help me, I abandoned it. 
 
 We had some difficulty in weighing our gold. Some 
 claimed to be making from thirteen to fourteen ounces 
 a day, crevicing in the banks, but this measure was 
 obtained by means of a lead weight, of which Jack 
 Smith used to say with much indignation, that it was 
 fit only for killing dogs with. We then started regu- 
 lating our weights and did that by means ofahalf-ounco 
 
HUNTING FOR GOI.D 
 
 49 
 
 
 brass weight. Wo ultimately succeeded in gettinir, 
 
 what we took to be a correct eight-ounce weight, and 
 this was brought into requisition almost every day, for 
 (juite a while. 
 
 We returned to the Forks above, and worked on a 
 bar there, until we thought that it was worked out, but 
 afterwards found gold all along the banks, sometimes 
 several hundred dollars within the short space of a few 
 hours, very seldom using even a shovel. Our principal 
 mining implements consisted of a butcher's knife, a tin 
 pan and a crowbar. Whenever wg saw a place that 
 looked promising, we would cross the river on the rocks, 
 if it happened to be on the opposite side, and delving 
 into the crevice, dig out what there was in it, so quickly 
 that we fairly astonished our sulky neighbors, who a few 
 days before had taken us for innocents in the wilderness. 
 
 Our principal grievance when crevicing, was the 
 scarcity of dirt, which often caused us great disappoint- 
 ments, for just as our hopes had been raised to the 
 highest pitch of anticipation, the rich spot would give 
 out, and after spooning and scraping for a while, we 
 would realize that we were hunting a phantom treasure. 
 
 The season was now far advanced, and it became a 
 matter of serious consideration whether we should face 
 the winter in the mountains, or return to less exposed 
 (juarters. So we held a consultation and ultimately con- 
 cluded to stay, provided we could find a bar to work on 
 and at the same time continue to lay in a sufficient sup- 
 ply of provisions. We gave up the crevices and went in 
 search of a bar where plenty of dirt could be easily ob- 
 tained. 
 
 Four of our company went up the South Fork to the 
 place which was afterwards known as Breyfogle Flat, 
 a"d there found a prospect in the south bank, which 
 
 1 i'l 
 
50 
 
 IIUNTINd I'OK C.OI.l) 
 
 |l 
 
 I 
 
 they tliou^lit would do us tor the winter. We then de- 
 terndiied to move up there, and i^ot ready. 1 paid a 
 visit to our iuhospitublo neighbors, and l)oui;ht froui 
 them a duof-out or burnt-out rocker, for which I <jrave 
 one ounce, and then we set out for our new cam[)ing 
 ground. VVe had tiie same trouble gettin<»- our 
 nudes along the hillside as described in a previous 
 chapter, and adopted the same tactics for keeping 
 them from sliding down to the bottom, as has al- 
 ready been mentioned. My mule met with an ac- 
 cident which caused the party both surprise and 
 merriment in our little crowd. The poor brute got 
 foul of a hornets' nest. Under normal conditions 
 that mule was as sedate, sober-minded, and quiet 
 a mule as ever carried a pack, and as long as I had 
 kr.own him he had never attempted any pace outside a 
 walk. Our surprise may, therefore, be easily imagined, 
 when all of a sudden, without any perceptible reason, 
 he kicked up his heels cloudwards, then stood on his 
 tail-end, and then for a moment left the alluvial soil al- 
 toixether and humx between heaven and earth, and ulti- 
 mutely, on reaching the latter once more, made otf at 
 the pace of Tam 'o Shanter's famous mare, I saw ev- 
 erything thjit I ^-'^d strapped on his back, tiy otf. Fry- 
 ing-pan, blanks cker, everything he was carrying 
 was strewr uhe course he took, and for every time 
 anything c ^ otF the pack, he seemed to quicken his 
 pace. Only one fortnate circumstance occurred during 
 the whole atfair — he chanced to run in the right direc- 
 tion, and when we at last caught up with him, we were 
 still on the right track, but my rocker was smashed to 
 atoms. When we arrived at the bar, we found that an- 
 other party had reached it cihead of us, and therefore 
 had the first clioice of ground. I went to work with 
 
 I:: 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 51 
 
 Mo moo on a portion of the bar, facino^ the river for 
 ahout ten feet. This Muinoo was an Egyptian and a 
 follower of Mahomet, the Prophet of *'the only God." 
 He was horn in Alexandria, and was a sailor by occupa- 
 tion. He came to San Francisco in '49, and hearing of 
 the discoveries made by John Marshall and Ca[)tain 
 Sutter, left the ship for the mines, as did nearly every 
 sailor in those days. I first met him at Bullard's Bar, 
 where he was in company with the Kanakas and Jim 
 Crow, and as he appeared to be an ajiparently good fel- 
 low, I had williDgly admitted him to our company. 
 
 It was on a Sunday evening when we pitched our 
 camp on the new ground, and bright and early Monday 
 morning we were ready for work. The piece that had 
 been allotted to Albert Callis, proved particularly rich, 
 and gold could be seen in considerable quaintity by sim- 
 ply removing the dirt with the foot. As I have said, 
 we arrived at our camp on a Sunday, but although 
 Albert kicked the dirt otf in sundry places, and saw the 
 yellow gold, he conscientiously covered the metal up 
 again, as he would not remove it on the Sabbath. He 
 came originally from Mathews County, Virginia, and I 
 believe, was a rimaway slave. 
 
 He afterwards settled in Downieville, married and had 
 quite a family, which he supported partly by working 
 at his trade as a barber. I may state here that none of 
 the darkies belonging to my company (I mean those of 
 African blood), could have been induced to work Sunday, 
 the effect, no doubt, of early training. But by and by 
 Jim Crow came along. His religious and moral senti- 
 ments were both far below zero, and it did not take him 
 long to remo\\3 the "taboo" from all the gold he could 
 get siofht of. 
 
 On the Monday two of us took out seventeen ounces, 
 
I f 
 
 62 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ,; i" 
 
 on Tuesday, twenty-four, on Wednesday, twenty-nine, 
 and early on Thursday, we had taken out forty ounces — 
 as much as fourteen in one pan. Mainoo, who was 
 cookinsj: breakfast for us when we brou«»lit the ofold into 
 camp, h)oked with amazement at the treasure, and it 
 seems to me I can yet hear him ejaculate : "Dam place 
 worked out now ! No more gold I No good ! " 
 
 It was now high time for us to send below for provis- 
 ions, and eight starts out, taking with them all the 
 mules. Jim Crow went with the rest, and they all 
 intended to return in a few days. When I reflect 
 upon the day when these men left camp, and the days 
 that followed, it seems evident to me that every human 
 being must have a mission to fulfill in this life, and 
 until that is fulfilled, death would not dare overtake 
 him. Tlie four of us left in camp were, Albert Callis, 
 Charles Wilkins, Michael Duvarney and myself, and as 
 we bade good-bye, to the departing ones, we expected 
 that they would speedily return, and little anticipated 
 treachery. It became our lot to wait in vain. For 
 many days we looked in expectation towards the direc- 
 tion from which they should return, but no one appeared, 
 and but for providential circumstances and individual 
 determination on our own part, our bones would have 
 bleached in the wilderness, where we had been left to 
 starve. 
 
 Many months had elapsed, when I again saw Jim 
 Crow. Our next meeting was in the following spring, 
 at Crow City, at the head of Jim Crow Canyon ,as these 
 places are now called. He was in company with a 
 
 number of Kanakas, and when I first caus^ht sio;ht of 
 him, he was sitting face to face with little Mike, who 
 was asking him all sorts of questions, as to why he did 
 not return to our camp with the mules and provisions, 
 
w 
 
 w 
 
 f 
 
 1 
 
 
 u 
 
 1 - ♦] 
 
 
 'V 
 
 
 «. 
 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 u 
 
 4 
 
 -. 'h' 
 
 i.M ' f I 
 
5t 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 and wliat he had been doing all the time. The truth of 
 the matter was, that Jim had never expected to see us 
 alive again. He was making his way back with a 
 company to the place where he had left us, to get some 
 more of the gold, taking it for granted that we had 
 starved to death long ago, and they had lost the trail. 
 
 Our meeting was accidental and more will be said of 
 this later on. The rest of the boys, who w^ent with him 
 had gone on a s[ 'ee and drank or gambled their dust 
 away. In those days it was a connnon thing for miners, 
 to come down to any settlement to change their dust 
 for silver, often at any price, just to get coin enough 
 with vrhich to play poker, and my late companions had 
 fo:^gotten all about us over cards and whisky. Let me 
 say here that I was never a heavy drinker. My favorite 
 liquor, when disposed to indulge at all, was wdiisky, 
 but I never drank to excess, and I never learned to 
 play at cards during all the years I spent in the mines. 
 
 The four of us went to work with a will, but soon the 
 rain set in, and our prospects began to look rather gloomy. 
 The flour sack began to get more precious than the gold 
 bag, and nobody came to our rescue, while Albert was 
 lying sick in the camp. In this dilemma I made a trip 
 down to the Forks, to see if I could fall in with anybody 
 from the bars below, or perhaps hear something of my 
 company. On this excursion I met John Potter, and 
 told him of the fix we were m. Mr. Potter said that he 
 had a partner down at Goodj^ear's Bar, and that they 
 would like to winter up here, if there was any way of 
 getting provisions up, and we discussed the situation 
 together, and both returned to our camp, where we 
 found Albert so bad that he had lost the use ofhisleofs, 
 while we could now make an over-hand knot in the flour 
 bag. I have often, afterwards, in the crowded city, seen 
 
 ^'^ 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 56 
 
 .'Cll 
 
 people begging for a small pittance, with which to buy 
 bread, and it has then occurred to nie how strange the 
 reverse of that picture looks. • There we were with a 
 bag full of gold, anxious to pay dearly for anything that 
 would sustain life, with no chance of purcliasing even 
 the poorest meal. The situation was becoming desper- 
 ate, and something had to be done. 
 
 We then decided to take Potter and his partner, 
 William Griffith, into our company, and as we had given 
 up all hopes of the return of our men, it was decided 
 that Potter should go down to Goodyear's Bar, to make 
 arrangements for provisions, while we moved to the 
 Forks, After he had left us, we started on our journey, 
 but no one can imaofine what difficulties we had to fitrlit 
 with. I had found a poor, half-starved mule In the 
 woods. It had evidently strayed from some departed 
 company, and I brought it into camp. On the back of 
 this wretched animal we seated our sick comrade, and 
 packing our tra})s on our own shoulders, we made the 
 best of it, while the cold November rain continued to 
 fall. We crossed the river, where Craycoft's mill was 
 afterwards built, and thus entering" the Forks from the 
 branch, we made a roaring fire and settled on the site, 
 which w.cS later on called Downieville. Our tent was 
 the only one at that time, as nobody else was then 
 camping in the solitude of these wild surroundings, and 
 here we now anxiously awaited the arrival of John Potter. 
 
 During mv absence at Goodvear's Bar, which will be 
 discussed in the following chapter, one of our party 
 started building a cabin. The next party to arrive was 
 a man named Kelly with a company, and soon after 
 came Mr. S. Wood and his company. From these lat- 
 ter, who settled on Jersev Flat, I tried in vain to obtain 
 some rations. Mr. Wood had ixone back and left a man 
 
1 
 1 
 
 ! 
 
 i 
 
 
 ■■ 
 
 56 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 hi i 
 
 in charge of his stores, and he would not be persuaded to 
 part with any of them, even at exhorbitant prices, which 
 we offered. I must state here in justification of Mr. 
 Wood, that he afterwards expressed his great regret at 
 this, and assured us that had he, or his partner, been on 
 the ground, we would certainly have obtained relief. 
 As it was, there was nothing left for us but "chewing the 
 rag" and await the return of the absent John Potter. 
 
 \ 
 

 % 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Death of a Friend — Audrew Goodyear — Bone Soup — At Sim- 
 mons' Camp — Cooking Under Arms — Four Dead Mules — 
 "Cut-Eye" Out of Temper— The Ax On The Ledge— Back at 
 the Forks — The First Dwelling in Downieville — Christmas 
 — The Stars and Stripes in the Sierras — Magnificent Scenery. 
 
 When John Potter arrived, he brought the somewhat 
 discouraging news that provisions were on the way, but 
 not in sufficient quantity ^o last us through the winter. 
 Miles Goodyear was very ill and not expected to live, 
 and he advised me to go down at once and secure more 
 supplies, as Andrew, the younger brother of the sick 
 man, had intimated that in case Miles died, he would 
 leave the mountains. I hesitated for a few days, and 
 meanwhile received news of Mr. Goodyear's death, 
 which occurred, as far as I can place the date, on the 
 12th of November, 1849. His remains were buried in 
 a rocker, but were afterwards removed by his brother 
 Andrew, and interred in consecrated ground, in more 
 civilized surroundings. 
 
 As soon as I heard of Mr. Goodyear's death, I set 
 out for the bar to procure provisions, taking with me 
 Billy Griffith and Mike Duvarney. We passed the 
 place, on our road, where they had buried Goodyear, 
 and soon reached the camp. We were doomed to dis- 
 appointment and hardships, for expecting a supply of 
 provisions, and being unwilling to stay in the locality, 
 Andrew had already made an agreement to sell them 
 to Sexton, Russell, and Dr. Vaughn, the physician who 
 
 1 «T 
 
 i*i 
 
 i. 
 
58 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 had attended his brother durinijf his iUness. At the 
 time when we struck tlie bar, thev were having^ rather 
 hard liick. Rations were very scarce, and men were 
 ekeing out an existence by subsisting upon a beef they 
 had found lying upon the bar. By the time we arrived 
 the meat was all gone, but they continued making soup 
 of the bones, and the kettle containing this, to our pal- 
 ates, savory mess, was kept boiling for all it was worth 
 It is wonderful what one can relish when hunger drives 
 him. 
 
 Six head of cattle were expected up at this time, and 
 Andrew agreed to let us have two of them, Woods and 
 his partner having contracted for the rest. On this oc- 
 casion Andrew Goodyear showed himself a generous, 
 large-hearted man. He charged us only one hundred 
 dollars a head, althou^^h he knew that starvino; and in 
 distress as we were, we would gladly have given him 
 four or fiv^e times that amount. He also gave me a lit- 
 tle rice and some dried apples, which I sent up to the 
 Forks. Kindness under such circumstances, makes an 
 indelible impression upon one's mind, and in the hour of 
 distress it has the same soothing effect as has the light 
 from the cottage window, that shines through the dark 
 and stormy night, and shows the wayfarer that he is 
 near his friends. In the years that have since passed, 
 I have often thought of this incident, and realized how 
 few there were — and I may say, are — who would have 
 acted in the same spirit as did Andrew Goodyear. 
 
 I now made arrangements with Messrs. Sexton, Rus- 
 sell and Dr. Vaughn, to purchase the expected pro- 
 visions from them for the sum of $3,900. The price 
 amounted to two dollars per pound all around, including 
 the sacks, which were wet with snow. 
 
 I was anxious to get over the river so as to go 
 
IN 
 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 59 
 
 down to meet the men who were bringing up the 
 goods, but the water had risen — it was rushing past, 
 and I could neither wade nor swim across. Griffith was 
 camped on the opposite shore in a small blanket tent, 
 and I indicated to him that I desired him to fell a tree 
 which was bendinix over the river, so as to form a brid<jfe 
 for me to cross upon. He understood me, and at once 
 set to work. For two days he labored hard, but when 
 at last the tree fell, and I was ready to go over, the 
 swift current swept it down the stream, and I was still 
 on the wronfj side of the river. So there was nothino- 
 to do but to await further developments. But it was 
 very tedious waiting. The bones were getting scarce, 
 and our larder was at a minimum, when, just as we 
 were wondering how the hide would do, if properly 
 cooked, we were saved such culinary experiment, for the 
 water fell, and we were enabled to cross the river and 
 join Bill Griffith. 
 
 As it happened, it did not seem to make much differ- 
 ence on which side of the river we were. We had on- 
 ly got into another starvation camp, and we concluded 
 that we would have to take to the hills to find some- 
 thing with which to keep us alive, and once more Mike, 
 Bill and myself set out, accompanied by a man named 
 Morrison. Having succeeded in climbing the hill, 
 then we went up the divide hoping to get to Simmons' 
 camp, where the firm of flawley, Sinnnons & Co., kept 
 a store. We had all we could do to make any headway 
 on this journey. A man's heart depends upon his 
 stomach, to a great extent, but if the If^tter is as emp- 
 ty as a vacuum, and has been so for so;ne time, the for- 
 mer is inclined to go below par. We had our mis- 
 givings as to the result of the tramp, lest some of us 
 
 vs; 
 
 \$ 
 
GO 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ' r 
 
 A LONELY MOUNTAINEER 
 
 should give out before reaching our 
 destination, and little Mike was the 
 first to yield to the hardships we 
 had to endure. After all, he was 
 only a child, and the little fellow bore 
 
 himself most bravely 
 until he was fairly 
 worn out. We tried 
 to carry him on our 
 backs, but found that 
 strength did not allow 
 proceed in this way, and 
 ultimately decided to 
 e Morrison behind with 
 boy, while Bill and I 
 pushed on towards the camp. 
 Our difficulties in- 
 creased. The No- 
 vember day soon 
 came to a close, and 
 night, cold and dark, 
 fell upon us. Still 
 we went on through 
 the v/oods. There 
 was a trail, which in 
 the daytime we could 
 have easily found, 
 but in the dark we 
 often found ourselves 
 wandering from it, 
 and one of us would 
 then stand still, while 
 the other would go in 
 search of the trail. 
 
HUNTING FOR GOIyD 
 
 61 
 
 Every now and then we would call out to one another, 
 and thus, in this manner, we moved onward, until a 
 welcome li<jht,shinin<jf towards us from a distance, denoted 
 that we were approaching the end of our journey. 
 
 Sinnnons' store was at the time poorly stocked, but 
 he was a j^ood, generous-hearted fellow, and gladly 
 shared his scanty supply with us. He gave us a bottle 
 of brandy and a few slap-jacks, and after resting awhile, 
 Bill went back to Morrison and Mike to bringf them 
 relief, and the next morning they all arrived in camp. 
 
 I spent quite a pleasant evening at Simmons' camp, 
 and after these many years I still remember the com- 
 pany that was there, some of whom were particularly 
 good fellows. Among the rest was Tim Harris, who 
 was full of fun and a most amiable companion. He was 
 waiting for Sexton to come up with his provisions and 
 did much to entertain the company. We had a joke the 
 next morning, as to who tumbled out of the bunk during 
 the night, Harris or I; and to this day the question has 
 never been settled, I am certain however that Tim was 
 the man that had the "sugar in his pocket." Simmons 
 treated us very well indeed, and when the rest came up 
 he shared his flour with us, and we were now in clover, 
 I must admit with every due respect to the temperance 
 cause and its advocates, that our brandy proved, "the 
 staff of life"to us, notwithstanding all that has been said 
 to the contrary. It is true, no doubt, that there are 
 circumstances and conditions of life, when liquor is not 
 absolutely necessary, but let every honest temperance 
 preacher try a little starving in the mountains with 
 nothing to drink but snow water, and it is just possible 
 that the whole fraternity will feel called upon to change 
 opinion. 
 
 We stayed at Simmons' camp for several days. 
 
 m- 
 
G2 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
 |t 
 
 ■ 
 
 } 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 111 . 
 
 1 ' 
 i 
 
 ' * 
 
 11 I 
 
 expecting that the provisions, which were on the way, 
 would arrive, but the party hrin^jini^ them up had been 
 delayed by the Hoods, caused by the incessant rain, and 
 could not L*'et across the river. I became impatient and 
 Set out to look for them, expecting to meet them, and if 
 I should fail in this, I intended to go as far as Nye's 
 crossing and buy rations. But they had succeeded 
 after trreat ditKculties, in crossing at P'oster's Bar, and I 
 fell in with them between this })lace and Slate Range, 
 and then turned back with them. When we got to 
 Goodyear's Bar, everybody there seemed delighted at 
 seeing such a quantity of provisions at once, a sight tliat 
 had not been presented to them for some time. We had 
 the greatest difficulty in cooking our meals, for Andrew 
 Goodyear's men were all Indians, and there were fifteen 
 or sixteen of them. It was a liungry, thieving lot, and 
 the first })anful we cooked, went out of sight in the 
 twinkling of an eye. We were determined to have a 
 good, square meal at once, when we came into camp, and 
 this was our first experience, but we changed our tactics. 
 I did the cooking after this, and Mike and Bill watched 
 the pan, knife and pistol in hand, and gave out that the 
 first man, who put his hand into that pan, would go 
 home minus his fingers. We then enjoyed our meal 
 and suspended any further cooking operations, until we 
 got away from them. As previously stated we had 
 already bargained for the provisions, and we now secured, 
 in addition to what we had already bought, two gallons 
 of vinegar for fifty dollars. Our goods consisted of 450 
 pounds of flour, a very small quantity indeed to winter 
 on, and the rest was canned goods — meats, vegetables, 
 fish, etc. I was offered half an ounce a pound for two 
 of my hams, but declined the offer, as we had enough to 
 do to get back home without packing gold. It seems 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 68 
 
 strange now to think of the days, when in travchn^, 
 Mike and I sometimes used to quarrel ahout who 
 should carry the gold bag, for although gold was what 
 we suffered and toiled for, it often became very wearisome 
 to carry it about, when we were tired and exhausted. 
 
 The next thing to be done was to get our stores 
 packed up to our camp, and I made an arrangement 
 with ** Cut-Eye" to do the transportation, as he had 
 plenty of horses and nuiles. He was to have thirty 
 ounces for delivering them at Cox's Bar, as that was 
 then the end of nuile possibilities in those quarters, and I 
 agreed to pay him for all horses or mules that might 
 die on the road. I believe that those belonsrin'jf to our 
 company were the only 'forty niners, who remained in 
 the mountains all winter, as the general thing was to go 
 down below in the fall and return in the spring. 
 
 We had plenty of snow and rain on our trip up to the 
 Forks, and we had to watch Cut-Eye very closely, as he 
 was not altogether to be relied upon. When I reHect 
 upon this trip, I am reminded of many scenes that 
 happened, characteristic of the happy-go-lucky nature, 
 of which most miners were possessed. I can see the 
 boys yet scraping away the snow to make room along- 
 side of some log that might be used as a table. Then 
 the cards would be produced, the pipes lighted and the 
 brandy bottle passed around, and in the midst of the 
 wilds men would enjoy themselves with a most enviable 
 disregard for the next difficulty that might arise. And 
 as these scenes recur to me I am put in mind of the 
 beautiful lines that begin with the question: 
 
 "AVhere is now tbe merry party — 
 I remember long ago?" 
 
 At Goodyear's Spring we halted. Bill was behind 
 bringing a hundred weight of flour on a h'nj; horse belongf- 
 
C4 
 
 HUNTING KOR GOLD 
 
 1 .1 h 
 
 ill 
 
 11 1 
 
 M4 
 
 in<jj to ** Cut-Eye, " The sack had slipped forward and 
 was right on tlie nock of the poor animal, which was 
 tiius considerably impeded in its progress and very 
 nearly done for. When I saw them coming into camp, 
 1 l)e>ran to think that it was a case, and that I would 
 have to pay for one dead horse at all events, hut fortune 
 fnvorod me, for the poor brute picked up again, when re- 
 lieved )f its load. As soon as we bejj^an descendintj 
 Goodvp.ar's hill, Mick and Bill went ahead to let the 
 boys know at the P'orks that we were coming, and it 
 was indeed the best tidings they could hear. Old ** Cut- 
 Eye " was doing his utmost all along to string the trip out 
 as much as possible. He had hoped that some of the 
 mules would die on the road, so that he might make 
 more money on the transaction. But with me it was a 
 case of diamond cut diamond. I was up to his tricks 
 and foresaw that the half starved mules could not last 
 long. So I pressed on, and we arrived at Cox's Bar 
 without losing any of them. I then paid Foster and 
 advised him to hurry back, as the weather was getting 
 dirty, and there was absolutely nothing for the mules to 
 eat. He stayed with us that night however, and the 
 next morning returned, some of the boys helping him to 
 get over the hill. Before they left him four of the 
 mules gave out, and he declared that the Major had got 
 the start of him this time, but he would get even yet. 
 It was no easy matter to carry our stores on our 
 shoulders from Cox's bar to the Forks, but we persevered, 
 until we had it all in camp. The beef was stowed away 
 in a snowdrift, and when packed in this manner and 
 kept from the air, it will keep good for two or three 
 months. We happened to get quite an addition to our 
 supply in a somewhat singular manner. We met a party 
 that had lost an ox. It had strayed from them, and 
 
 i ■ 
 
HUNTINCJ FOR GOLD 
 
 65 
 
 they told us tliat if wo coulil find it, we rnis^dit keep it. 
 After a diliurent search, John Potter found tlie animal 
 perched on the ledge of a rock above Cox's Bar on the 
 south side of the river. How it got there is to this day 
 inexplicable to me, but there it stood, unable to turn or 
 get down, starving in the solitude, looking down upon 
 the river in a sort of mute despair and beyond the reach 
 of the lowing of its fellows. When we climbed up 
 towards it, it turned its big sad eyes upon us with an ex- 
 pression, as if it hoped for relief, even from the race 
 that bowed its head under the yoke and lashed its back, 
 when its strength failed. It seemed a cruel thing to do, 
 but there was no alternative, so we shot the poor brute, 
 and it fell over the precipice, and as it rolled down the 
 rocks, everyone turned his head away with a shudder. 
 
 Let it not appear to the reader that such tenderheart- 
 edness on the part of rough miners is improbable. In- 
 deed, everybody who has lived in the wilds is well aware 
 that even when a little squirrel ventures up to the tent 
 and shows signs of confidence, no one will hurt it and it 
 soon becomes a pet. 
 
 After we had done all the hard work, the snow ceased 
 and we got a spell of pleasant weather. Just then some 
 of our boys brought another mule load of provisions from 
 Nye's Crossing and we were now prepared to meet the 
 winter. 
 
 Meanwhile the building of our cabin had advanced, 
 and when our provisions had been stored, we all lent a 
 hand to finish it. The roof was covered with shingles, 
 which were tied on with rawhide. The structure was 
 crude as is all early backwood architecture, but it promised 
 to answer its purpose well. It was strong, warm and 
 watertight and would withstand the winter's storms. It 
 became indeed well known to many, and there may be 
 
GG 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 some, who read this, who will still remember the day 
 when they were first welcomed in that eahin. It was 
 moreover the first of its kind built at the Forks, and 
 thus it virtually became the foundation of Downieville. 
 
 Since then I have dwelt in many houses, far more 
 richly furnished in every respect, with modern conven- 
 iences and the latest improvements, but I nmst ([uestion 
 whether I have been more comfortable in any of them, 
 than I was in the cabin at the Forks. We were follow- 
 ed by Jack Smith and Gorman, afterwards came Kelly 
 and Berry and several others, while Sam Woods, Jim 
 Kearns and Murray settled on Jersey Flat. 
 
 It was on the 10th of December, 1840, that we moved 
 into our new quarters, and then came Christmas. We 
 were determined to make the best of the festive season, 
 even though we were in the midst of the wilds, far 
 away from friends and relations. Our greatest trouble 
 was, that W'e had but one bottle of brandy in camp, and 
 it took us some time before we could decide whether we 
 would drink it' on Christmas or New Yeurs day. The 
 discussion, pro and con, was very animated and resulted 
 in the drawin<)f of the cork on Christmas morninor. It 
 was quite early, when this important event took place, 
 and we made punch withfne liquor, using hot water and 
 nutmeg. We drank to absent friends, to wives and 
 sweethearts and to the great American Nation. Grad- 
 ually as the sun rose higher in the heavens and the 
 brandy got lower in the bottle, we became n\ore enthu- 
 siastic. I had a small representation of the stars and 
 stripes in my possession, and we determined that on this 
 day it should adorn our house. So I climbed upon the 
 roof with the flag in one hand, a pistol in the other. I 
 made a short speech, waved the flag and fired a few 
 shots and finished up by giving three cheers for the 
 
o 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 W 
 
 W 
 
 Trwr '::ri;i.";i'iM; ,i«iifrr-«T; ^cm 
 
 ■'l-vlil 
 
08 
 
 HUNTING FOR (iOLD 
 
 (.1 jib* 
 
 Aiiicrican Constitution. Then I fixed the fla<r on the 
 gable point, and we all shouted for joy when we saw it 
 unfurled to the breeze for the first time in the fastnesses 
 of the Sierras. 
 
 I cannot conclude this chapter without drawing 
 attention to the magnificent scenery that surrounded us. 
 Summer and winter, the grandeur of nature in the 
 Sierras is so wonderful, that it becomes sublime. The 
 towering mountains, the snow c)ad peaks, the lakes, the 
 mountain streams and the variety of vegetation — all 
 blend harmoniously and form pictures, which my pen is 
 too feeble to describe. In the midst of such surround- 
 ings we laid the foundation of a community, which pass- 
 ed through all the weird phases of border life, into the 
 more settled condition of advanced civilization. 
 
 The following pages wnll contain many strange tales 
 of happenings in that community, adventures of men, 
 and sometimes of women. They will relate the dis- 
 appointments they suffered or the triumphs they achieved; 
 show how confusion brought about self-made laws, if not 
 always absolute justice, and explain to some extent the 
 conditions that caused many men to remain poor, who 
 might to-day have been worth millions. 
 
 Ilit 
 
 i 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Life in the Cabin — The Bill of Fare — A Prospecting Fever — • 
 The Dangers of Traveling — Arrival of Mrs. James Galloway 
 — A Poor Gin Mill — Jack Smith and His Jokes — Up a Tree 
 After Gold — Expensive Rations — William Slater — A Rush of 
 Miners — Taking up Claims — The Necessity for Laws — 
 
 As I HOW proceed with my narrative, I will endeavor 
 as far as possible to bring the incidents and occurrences 
 out in the order in which they happened. The rei^ion 
 I had adopted as my home, remained so for over eioht 
 years, and although 1 traveled about a good deal, I still 
 made the Forks my headquarters. During that period 
 I met with many vicissitudes, and many strange scenes 
 were enacted, and such of them will l)e related, as will 
 give the reader an adequate idea of life in the CrJit'oria 
 mines in the early days. 
 
 After we had done justice to Christmas, we went 
 prospecting in different directions and met with very 
 good success. Just then a Mr. Lord, who was camped 
 on Jersey Flat, came over to see us. fle made a loiiix 
 face, spoke of his hard luck, said he had a family back 
 in the States, and that he was anxious to return. Ho 
 wanted to make a small raise and would pay anything 
 to anybody, who would put him on to a good claim. I 
 took pity on the man and gave him part of my claim, 
 and he soon proved himself a mean, ungrateful wretch. 
 He at once set to work with his partner and made from 
 one to two hundred dollars a day, taking out as much 
 
 as $1460 worth in one day, while I had to be satisfied 
 
 est 
 
 
 wi 
 
70 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 Hit 
 
 1 ■, 
 
 M 
 
 11 
 
 
 I > 
 
 with a few ounces. As soon as he found out that his 
 end of the claim was so much better than mine, he be- 
 came very reserved and silent, and even went so far as 
 to draw a dividing line with stakes, so as to separate 
 his portion from the Major's. I had many experiences 
 of such inirratitude but learned to understand that this 
 is nothing more than might be expected; for nature, in 
 making up, from motives of economy, sometimes uses 
 the odds and ends and sends the poorer work into the 
 world, thus making her more creditable productions 
 appear to greater advantage. 
 
 We did not expect to be able to get any more pro- 
 visions up till about the month of May, and we made 
 our bill of fare accordingly. One man always stayed in 
 camp to look after it and do the cooking, while the 
 others were at work. Our greatest scarcity was flour, 
 and so it was only used once a day. The dough being 
 made, it was divided into six equal parts and put into 
 the oven, and each man knew exactly what to expect. 
 Our every day dinner consisted of beans and rice, but on 
 Sundays, we generally had something extra. At this 
 time I was working by myself and makmg out very well. 
 I seldom took out less than a pound a day, and it 
 happened several times that I was rewarded with a find 
 of from twenty to thirty ounces. Potter and I after- 
 wards worked together, and on rainy days, when we did 
 not care about going very far away to work, we would 
 work at intervals on the site where now stands Cray- 
 oroft's mill, and often make three or four ounces in a 
 few hours. Indeed, these were the palmy days of gold 
 dio-ofinof, when one for obvious reason saved all he found. 
 We dried our gold in a shovel and weighed it in a pair 
 of scales, big enough to w^eigh "grub" in, using lead 
 weights. But if our weights were not. quite exact, what 
 
ll 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 71 
 
 of it! We had plenty of gold, and a few ounces, more 
 or less was neither here nor there. 
 
 Some time during February, Wood and his partners 
 sold us a quantity of provisions which had been left at 
 Negro Tent, then known as Hollow Log, and on the 
 25th of February, 1850, we started out to bring them 
 in. On this trip we fell in with "Cut-Eye" Foster, and 
 another man, who were the first to come up to the 
 mountains that spring 
 
 It may seem strange that men who were doing as 
 well as we were, should not feel settled. There we were, 
 making plenty of gold, and yet we wanted to go some- 
 where else, where we could make more, and get ahead 
 of the many miners the approaching spring would bring 
 u[) that way, and when we learned that a great many 
 men were at that time at Sleisjhville, waitinij for a favor- 
 able opportunity to get to the Forks, we made up our 
 minds that it was time for us to look for richer fields, 
 lest we should be elbowed out of fairer chance in the 
 general scramble of the spring rush. 
 
 Potter went up to Twist's Flat, as it is now called, and 
 in prospecting struck a very rich patch opposite Negro 
 Point. On his return we talked matters over, and he 
 advised that we go up at once, but I had that day taken 
 thirty ounces out during his absence, and this fact part- 
 ly unsettled us. The following day Potter returned and 
 took out thirty-two ounces, and this two ounces over 
 and above what I had taken out, decided us in favor of 
 going. But there were other circumstances to take in- 
 to consideration. It would have been easy enough for 
 us to leave the Forks with our blankets, but the trans- 
 portation of our gold would cause more trouble. We 
 soon came to the conclusion that if we attempted to 
 take the gold with us, we should certainly be killed or 
 
72 
 
 HUNTING FOR (iOLD 
 
 at least robbed on the road, and as we could not leave it 
 behind, we had no alternative but to stay where we 
 were, which we deternihied to do. 
 
 Jack Smith and two or three others went prospectinu;', 
 They a built a brush shanty somewhere about the 
 head of Kanaka Creek, which was then called Indian 
 Creek, and there were many who afterwards thought 
 that Jim Crow and his Kanakas had wintered there. I 
 had tried to take up a claim on the North Fork, but a 
 dispute arisiiii^ about it, I went back to the old place on 
 the South Fork. 
 
 My narrative is now taking me into the month of 
 March in the year 1850. But, before proceeding any 
 further, I must mention one of the most memorable events 
 that took place in the solitudes of the Sierras — the ar- 
 rival there of the first white woman. It was just about 
 the first of March, 1850, that Mr. James Galloway and 
 his most estimable wife arrived at the Forks. F(;r a 
 woman to brave the difficulties, not to say dangers, of 
 traveling up the mountains in those days, was enough 
 to arouse the admiration of us all, and the arrival in our 
 midst, of ]\[rs. Galloway, was hailed with much enthu- 
 siasm. 
 
 Cut-eye Foster had arrived at Cox's Bar with provis- 
 ions and liquors, and later opened a grocery and grog- 
 gery on the hillside above our cabin. Jack Smith came 
 with him from Goodvear's Hill, and brought with him a 
 five-gallon keg of gin, packing it on his back all the way 
 from Sleighville. It seems that before they started from 
 this latter place, a good many drams leaked out of the 
 keg, and Jack and Foster did not spare it on the road, 
 but notwithstanding this fact they succeeded in bring- 
 ing the keg full into camp The process by which this 
 was a.chieved, remaineu a secret between J-ack and Fos- 
 
% 
 
 rim:' 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 ( 
 < I 
 
 (J J 
 
 ? 
 
 I fi 
 
M 
 
 74 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ,.n 
 
 ter, and was no doubt due to the latter's inuj'enuity. Fos- 
 ter was neither sentimental nor sensitive, in any sense 
 of the word, and he never allowed conscience to prick 
 him. When he opened his store at the Forks, he sold 
 a quantity of gin to the men. They did not say nmch, 
 but they doubted that it was the real article, they paid 
 so dearly for, and people who came up from Sleighville, 
 declared that there the liquor would certainly not have 
 passed for gin. Jack had a hard time of it bringing the 
 precious fluid, and spent one night seated at the roots 
 of a tree, holding on to the keg all the time, with only 
 a blanket over him, and no other fire than that con- 
 tained in the liquor. However, when he arrived at the 
 Forks, he found it impossible to keep the keg filled as 
 fast as it was drawn, and the sfin soon gave out. 
 
 The same Jack Smith was a character, and repeatedly 
 got himself or others into some ludicrous })osition. I 
 remember one time, when he was working below the 
 Bluebanks, that I went across to see him I found 
 him engaged in a soliloquy, in which he poured particu- 
 larly strong language upon all Missourians, and Pike 
 County HOMBRES in particular. He was at the time 
 panning dirt on a claim above his own, and at first he 
 refused to tell me what all his trouble was about. At 
 last it came out. He had taken up this claim for the 
 purpose of selling out to the first "greenhorn" who 
 might chance to come along, and to make it sell well, he 
 had put two or three ounces in the hole, all ready for 
 prospecting. 
 
 In a little while a Pike Connty hombre came along 
 with pick and pan, looking for a claim, and Jack put 
 him onto the place, saying he was willing to sell. The 
 stranger set tr work, but instead of starting at the bot- 
 tom he pulled down the sides, thus filling up the hole, 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 75 
 
 and completely burying Jack's gold, and as he could 
 scarcely raise the color, he left without buying. And 
 there was Jack minus his sale, and left to find his gold 
 for the second time, which the Missourian had failed to 
 find. No wonder he was mad. 
 
 Strange to say, that very claim proved afterwards to 
 be one of the richest at the Forks, and I have known 
 Jack to take out as much as six pounds in one day from 
 it. It was one of the crevicing claims that I have spoken 
 of, which we used to work on wet days, and it was a 
 common thing among as to trade our claims for a 
 piece of tobacco, or other trifiing exchange, if we had 
 not had a successful day. In this manner Jack and I 
 had several times traded this same jlaim backward and 
 forward, but he was the one who owned it, when it 
 began to pan out well. 
 
 Another story about Jack comes to my mind, as I 
 write this, which shows that the joke he wished to 
 perpetrate, did not always turn upon himself and he was 
 full of practical jokes. It was altogether an age of 
 tricks and trickery. Men had little to think about, out- 
 side the routine of their every day vocation, and the 
 stories brought from home or travels, would become 
 stale. So the miners entertained themselves and their 
 friends at the expense of strangers or oftentimes of 
 their own companions. It was a common thing for 
 gold-seekers to keep in their pockets, several slugs of 
 geld, varying in value. They were lumps worth, some- 
 times, as much as forty or fifty dollars, and often more. 
 Jack was sitting under a tree, one day, wondering where 
 he would try his luck next. In his pocket were the 
 regulation slugs — four or five of them — and they were 
 beauties. As his glance wandered across the open 
 glade before him, he saw a man coming along, evident- 
 
76 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 II 
 
 ly a green honi in search of gold, and an idea struck 
 Jack to have some fun at the prospector's expense. He 
 pretended to be digging in the bark of tlie tree with liis 
 kiife, and as the stranger came up to him, lie a})parent- 
 ly took a lump of gold out and put it in his pocket. The 
 stranger halted, put down his blankets, and was about 
 to use his own knife on the tree, when Jack stopjied 
 him. "No you don't I" said Jack, "This is my tree. 
 There is one over there tiiat looks pret , good, you may 
 try that." The stranger took his k: .nd went for 
 
 the other tree, while Jack protendea to find another 
 lump. "Any luck ?" queried Jack, after awhile. 
 
 "Can't raise the color," said the stransj['er. 
 
 "Hello I" shouted Jack, "one more. That makes 
 three," and he held three big lum})s out in his hand. 
 
 "That's queer," said the other, plunging his knife deep 
 into {\\e touo'li bark of the tree, and makin<j^ a loni^i' •''lit 
 as he drew it out with a twist, "It's mighty queer that 
 there shouldn't be anv here I" 
 
 "Maybe you are too near the ground," suggested Jack, 
 "some of them are 'top-reefers' as we call them here; 
 try about twenty feet higher up. Whew ! here's an- 
 other 1" 
 
 The stransrer beijan to think that it was time he also 
 found something, and so, without any further ado, he 
 began to climb up. 
 
 "How's this ?" he shouted. 
 
 "Higher up, I think," suggested Jack. 
 
 "Here ?" from the stranger. 
 
 "A little higher I" yelled Jack, in delight, not even 
 being able to see the man, by this time. "Up as far as 
 that fork above you, and I think you will strike it." 
 
 The stranger made a desperate effort, reached the fork 
 and dug into the bark for gold. By this time Jack 
 
 11 
 
 II 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 77 
 
 could no longer restraiu his merriment, and bursting in- 
 to a roar of laughter that raised the echo of the woods, 
 he hurried to the camp to tell his adventure. But up 
 in the top of the tree sat the gold-seeker, prospecting 
 in the bark and wondering what had taken that crazy 
 man below. Such practical joking formed one of the 
 features, characteristic of mining life in those days. 
 Generally the jokes were taken in good part, and, when 
 opportunity allowed, practiced on somebody else. 
 
 "Cut-eye" Foster made a success at store-keeping, 
 but his prices were absolutely ruinous to his customers. 
 fle charged three dollars per pound for potatoes and 
 butter, two dollars for Hour, and so on in proportion, 
 making everybody recognize that, if life was worth liv- 
 ing, we certainly had to pay dearly to sustain it. Fos- 
 ter got a man to attend his store by the name of William 
 Slater, who afterwards proved to be an out-and-out 
 swindler, preying on the confidence of his fellow men. 
 As a business man Slater could not be surpassed. When 
 a customer came into the store with money in his pock- 
 et and wanted four pounds of potatoes, Slater would in- 
 variably say : "You might as well take five pounds, for 
 I have no change." But if another came in and asked 
 for the same quantity with a request to have it booked, 
 he would say in his suavest manner : "Would two 
 pounds do you to-day ? You know I am nearly run out 
 of potatoes and want all to have an equal show." No 
 wonder "Cut-Eye" made money, with such a commer- 
 cial genius in his employ. 
 
 But later he took sick. His tent aflbrded but a poor 
 shelter, and he was really very low. He sent for me 
 to come over and see him, and when I realized the pre- 
 carious condition in which he was, I had him moved 
 over to my cabin, gave h'm my bunk and slept on the 
 
1 f 
 
 l,iL., 
 
 
 i 
 
 ¥■ 
 
 
 78 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 i! 
 
 floor. My partner poked fun at iiie, and said I was too 
 tenderhearted, but 1 felt that it would have been in- 
 human to leave him where he was, and I ])ut up with 
 it all. I merely mention this matter in order to show 
 Slater off in bold relief later on, when he distinu^uished 
 himself in a somewhat unexpected manner. At all events 
 we nursed him and pulled him through his sickness, and 
 when he began to recover he made himself quite popular 
 with our company. There was some talk about going 
 prospecting, and Slater heard us discuss the chances of 
 sending our gold down below. He the' gave us the 
 startling information that to anybody, who knew his 
 way about, it was perfectly easy to get as nmcli as 
 twenty-two dollars per ounce. This very much excited 
 the boys, who had never dreampt of any more than six- 
 teen dollars, and from that day Slater was looked upon 
 with nmch admiration by the whole crowd, who thought 
 that he was inside the ring and knew the ropes and hovv^ 
 to pull them. 
 
 The miners now began to come up to the mountains. 
 They came in flocks, so to speak, like migrating birds, 
 that only wanted to stay for a season and then return 
 to the home-nest, to feather and fix it. Our cabin 
 was a happy one, and no one was ever turned away, who 
 asked for shelter or a meal. When strangers came in 
 so thick that space began to get scarce, we would crawl 
 into our bunks so as to allow them room enough to get 
 in and warm themselves and get their clothes dried, 
 before proceeding any further. Many of them, more 
 especially married men, would state that they merely 
 wanted to accumulate two or three thousand dollars, 
 and then they would go back home. Such talk generally 
 elicited a smile on our part, and we told them that 
 five or six thousand dollars would not satisfy them, and 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 79 
 
 that wlion tliey had accmnulatod that niucli, they would 
 think less about ^oiiiij^ hoiiie than they did before. 
 
 Those who were camped down the river about Cox's 
 and Goodycar's Bar beujan stakinu^ ofl' claims all the way 
 up to the Forks. When they got that far, they would 
 bei^an to explore the North and South Forks, and think- 
 int^ that they had foi d something better still, they 
 would drive in more staKcs, until they got clear out of 
 sight. Then, when they returned to their first claims, 
 they would find that these had been occupied by other 
 parties, and thus innumerable disputes would arise. 
 
 This state of affair was an unmistakable sign that the 
 hour had arrived when it became necessary to establish 
 certain laws by which to regulate operations in these 
 parts, and thus it was, that out of chaos and confusion 
 grew the first code that guided the dwellers at the 
 Forks, and which it proved very hard to upset or alter, 
 when later on attempts were made to do so. 
 
PI 
 
 m 
 
 CHAPTER YUl. 
 
 Adoptinf^ a Code — Remarkable ObKcrvations — The Oh-be-joyful 
 — Chaugiiif,'- a Name — A Bit of Early History — Samuel Laug- 
 tou — A Ba<;(jf (iold — Eti<|uette in the Bar-room — Corn Meal 
 Fixin<,'H — Heading the First Newspaper — I>ieeting Jim Crow 
 — Phantom Treasures. 
 
 For tlio purpose of settling tlie matter of laws, a meet- 
 ins^ was called at Mr, Kelly's cabin, a series of resolu- 
 tions was passed, establisliin<4 a code which was after- 
 wards adhered to, and things went smoothly until the 
 advent of the legal fraternity. It would liave been bet- 
 ter by far, tor the miners, if the lawyers had never 
 reached the gold-iiiilds of the Yubas. They came there 
 for the sake of "filthy lucre," and too easily they wrung 
 from the nuners what they had made through sheer 
 hard work. In tlu; following is })resented an exact copy 
 of the minutes of the meeting referred to, with Major 
 Briggs in the Chair, and C A. Russell acting as Secre- 
 tary. 
 
 Forks of the Yuba, March 3d, 1850. 
 
 "Met, accorduig to agreement, at Mr. Kelly's cabin. 
 Meeting was organized by the a}){)ointment of Major 
 Briggs, as Chairman, and C. A, Russell, as Secretary. 
 Messrs. T. Sexton, N. Kelly and H. A. Russell, com- 
 mittee. 
 
 Moved and seconded that the report of the commit- 
 tee be accepted. 
 
 Resolved, First. — That ten yards be the amount of 
 each claim, extending to the middle of the river. go 
 
wm 
 
 
 HUNTING 1Y)R GOLD 
 
 81 
 
 Second. — That vavh claim he staked, and a tool, or 
 tools left upon it. 
 
 Third. — That five days he allowed to prepare and oc- 
 cupy each claim. 
 
 Fourth. — That noni; l)ut native and naturalized citi- 
 zens of the United States shall be allowed to hold 
 claims. 
 
 Fifth. — That the word "native;" shall not include the 
 Indians of this country. 
 
 Sixth — That companies dammini; the river, shall 
 
 hold, each individual, a claim, and have a ri<;ht to the 
 
 bed of the river (below low-water mark) as far as it lies 
 
 dry. 
 
 Seventh. — That claims be in conjunction with their 
 
 dams. 
 
 Eighth. — That all matters of dispute be settled by 
 
 referees. 
 
 Ninth. — That in case of trial for crime of any kind, 
 
 there shall be ten present, besides the jury and wit- 
 nesses. 
 
 Tenth. — That sea-faring men in possession of Ameri- 
 can protection, shall be allowed claims. 
 
 Eleventh. — That whoever shall not be able to show 
 his papers, shall have a fair trial. 
 
 Twelfth. — That this code of laws be in force on and 
 after the fourth of March. 
 
 Thirteenih. — Th^t the upper Yuba District consist of 
 Goodyear's Bar and all above. 
 
 Moved that this meeting adjourn to the first Sunday 
 
 of next month. 
 
 MAJOR BRIGGS, President. 
 C. A. Russell, Secretary. 
 
 O. S. Sexton, 
 
 N. Kelly, \ Committee. 
 
 II. A. Russell, 
 
82 
 
 HUNTINCr FOR COLD 
 
 I i 
 
 I made a very reiiiarkablc observation, \vlii(;li for 
 sonic time [)uzzle(l my imaniiiatioii and to tliis day re- 
 mains unexplained. 1 was working a claim opposite 
 (Jrayeroft's sawmill, and it was (juite a common occur- 
 n^nce to find heavy gold liiij^h u[)on the baidi ainonui'st 
 loose, black dirt, or sticks and leaves. I saw the same; 
 thing afterwards below Breyfogle Flat, where 1 would 
 find loose gold as far as thirty feet above the river. 
 Without asserting that gold will float, I am at a loss to 
 account for its })resence in these j)laces, if it liad not 
 been carried there by the watcir when the river was 
 swolen. It was not heavy gold, but found in large, 
 thin scales, and I saw one ))iec(3 tliat measured about 
 an inch and a half scjuare, weighing half an ou'ice. 1'his 
 Haky gold would frccpKiiitly average from two to five 
 dollars to the {)an, whih^ the clay in the same location 
 would not go on(3 dollar to tin; ()an. 
 
 Owing to some severe weather wc; were laying off' for 
 a sj)ell, and it was decided to celebrate this occasion 
 with an attack upon the "Oh-be-joyful," and sending 
 out a general invitation, we opened proceedings. l'"or 
 some time we ke})t it up pretty well; life took on a 
 rosy hue; we felt satisfied with ourselves and everybody 
 else, and we drank our grog in the Sierras with the 
 same relish that some of us might to-day drink cham- 
 pagne at Delmonico's. But after awhile it was advisa- 
 ble to stop the spree. It had to be done efiectually and 
 with a finishing touch worthy of the occasion, and it was 
 suggested that we should drink all the li((uor to be had 
 at the Forks. We sent down to Slater to negotiate for 
 the purchase of the balance of his grog supply, but he 
 replied that he would not sell wholesale, as he had only 
 part of one keg left, but to (oblige as he was willing to 
 let us have what he could spare. Unawares we were 
 
 i 
 
HrN'riN(V FOK CrOIJ) 
 
 H'.i 
 
 tlie victinis of OIK! of our- friend .Jack's tricks. He had 
 already bought tlie lot from Slater, had it bottled, and 
 had hidden the bottles in the snow behind the cal)in. 
 By and by the boys began to get dry, and one of them 
 suggested that he would pay an ounce for a bottle, and 
 Jack said he would go for it. On his return he re- 
 marked that it would be possible to get another l)ottle 
 or two for the same price, after which he was (juickly 
 dispatched, and as a matter of course, treated, on his 
 return, to a drink of the precious liquid. In this man- 
 ner Jack made quite a good speculation, and for every 
 time he came into the cal)in with a couple of bottles, he 
 would expatiate upon the depth of the snow and the nu- 
 merous difficulties encountered on the way, while as a 
 matter of fact, he had been only a few yards away from 
 the cabin, taking the bottles out of the snow. 
 
 It was during this spring that the name of the Forks 
 was changed to that ot "Downieville." By this time 
 people had begun to accumulate and to build small Ikjus- 
 es, cabins or shanties, and it became evident that the 
 foundation of a town was being laid. Men began to or- 
 ganize matters ; to build only in certain positions, and 
 to leave space for future streets, which, however, so far 
 had not been established. A man called Vineyard came 
 up from Goodyear's Bar and staked off' a lot above Cray- 
 croft's place and just in front of some land belonging to 
 James Galloway. He left only seventeen feet for the 
 width of the street, and this so much annoyed the jieo- 
 ple in the neighborhood, that they called a meeting, and 
 it was finally decided that no street should be less than 
 twenty-six feet wide. Mr. Galloway was in the chair, 
 and there was quite a lengthy discussion as to the width 
 to be decided upon. When it was all settled, Mr. Gal- 
 loway took the floor and made a s[)eech. He reminded 
 
 !; 
 
 II! 
 
Tr 
 
 84 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 t ; 
 
 
 those present that tliey had been arjj^uin^*- about the 
 width of the streets, and yet they had not even named 
 the town they were about to found. He then moved 
 that it be called "Downieville," after Major Downie. 
 Vineyard, who was annoyed at his defeat in regard to 
 the width of the streets, objected. He proposed to call 
 the place "Foster," but u[»on a vote being taken, he was 
 the only one who opposed the name of '* Downieville," 
 which was then adopted with acclamation. 1 had just 
 returned from a trip down the river, and happened to en- 
 ter the room as they were all shouting themselves 
 hoarse for ''Downieville," and my appearance lent new 
 impetus to the enthusiasm, which culminated when I 
 called all hands out to drink to the success of the new 
 town. 
 
 However, for S(nne time after-, the place continued to 
 be called the " Forks," and it was not until Mr. (gallo- 
 way was made Justice of the Peace, and dated his writs 
 from "Downieville," that the little town became official- 
 ly known by that name. The tirst territorial election 
 under the constitution, outside the cities, took place on 
 the Istof June, 1850. Galloway and Vineyard were 
 l)oth running for the Justiceship, and as Downieville 
 was entitled to two Justices, they were both elected. 
 They had made an agreement that the one who received 
 the most votes, should qualify. It proved a very close race 
 for the office. Galloway received 496 votes, and quali- 
 fied, his opponent receiving 492. The Justice's jurisdic- 
 tion extended all over the present county of Sierra, and 
 took in some outside territory, besioes, and the nearest 
 Court to this, was at Foster's Bar. During the first 
 year Mr. Galloway tried three hundred and twenty-five 
 cases, ranging in cost from half an ounce to six ounces, 
 and embracinof crimes and ofi'enses of all kinds. 
 
 
HUNTIN(i FOR GOLD 
 
 85 
 
 Frank Cook and John Capion wore Constables at the 
 same time. Cook at'tc^'waids joined the police force iji 
 Marysville, and later became Chief ot Police there. 
 
 But I must go back a little in my account. One of 
 the results of our gradual development was the appear- 
 ance, at our camps, of expressmen, or mail-carriers as 
 they should more properly have been called. These 
 men speculated upon our isolation by bringing us mail 
 from Sacramento at such prices as they might contract 
 for with the miners, individually. In most cases the 
 matter never went beyond a "proposition," and the 
 advancement of certain money to men who had no inten- 
 tion of returning. It was, doubtless, the memory of 
 this dishonesty that afterwords caused many to distrust 
 a most worthy man, who came up to fulfill the obliga- 
 tions for which he had contracted. This man was Mr. 
 Samuel Langton, and the accompanying picture gives a 
 life-like representation of him and myself as we appeared 
 in those days. I am represented as showing him some 
 gold, on the occasion, and he as bending forward to 
 examine it. Many a time have we sat outside that cabin, 
 giving one another an account of happenings which had 
 taken place since our last meeting. And to few men do 
 the miners of the early days on the Yuba, owe a greater 
 debt of gratitude, than to Sam. While the linlls of 
 Conirrcss resounded with lon«jc-winded speeches about 
 the admission of (Jahfornia to the Union; while we 
 were being victimized by crafty adventurers, Sam was 
 climbing tlu' hills with his little budget of letters, to 
 make the miner, in his l>rush shanty, glad with news 
 from home. Summer and winter he toiled away, ever 
 faithful to the discharge of his self-assumed duties. In 
 the scorching sun, across swolen rivers, or through 
 mighty snowdrifts, Sam Langton made his way to our 
 
 Mm 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 u$\ 
 
u 
 
 u 
 
 < 
 U 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 87 
 
 camps, bringinj:^ tidings and messages that were looked 
 for with im[)atieiK'e. 
 
 It liad become a matter of ambition with a great many 
 to act as expressmen, and among those who tliought 
 themselves particularly fitted for the position, was 
 William Slater He gave out, all along, that he was 
 going to outshine the rest, and when he once got started 
 in business, he certainly succeeded in doing so, in one 
 sense, Mr. Lano-ton became the agent for the g^reat 
 Express firm of Adams & Co., and opened an office at 
 Downieville, but it took him quite a while to establish 
 the desired confidence in the concern. I remember, on 
 one occasion, meeting a miner in his office, who was 
 asking innumerable questions as to the mode of sending 
 money home. Sam explained the whole matter to him, 
 showed him a draft on Adams & Co., which he would 
 receive on depositing the gold, but the miner hesitated 
 to let his dust go. He could, evidently, not understand 
 that such a flimsy -looking paper could be good security 
 for solid gold. He objected on the ground that the 
 draft looked like "shinplaster," and that the bank might 
 "bust up." He finally left with his gold. When he 
 got outside, he called the boys up to have a drink, then 
 he dived into the chances of the monte bank, and by 
 night the pile was gone, which might have rewarded 
 him for honest toil, and brought relief and joy to those 
 left at home. I have heard manv useless regrets ex- 
 pressed by the miserable victims of the gambling-table, 
 who had staked their money on the wrong card, instead 
 of lea vin or it in Sams stron<x-box. I never trambled, 
 myself, but nevertheless, truth compells me to say that 
 I also have suftered, though somewhat differently, for 
 refusing the services of an honest and worthy man 
 
 During the spring flour went down in price, at the 
 
 til 
 
 it 
 
 .1 'r\\ 
 
 1 
 
 Mi 
 
88 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 i w ' 
 
 Forks*, and I boui^lit one thousand pounds and had it ta- 
 ken to my camp on the South Fork. I paid a dollar a 
 pound for it, and while it lasted, it was common proper- 
 ty, and whosoever wanted a sack was welcome to it. 
 On the day when it arrived, and after paying the packer, 
 and on my way home, I was overtaken by a stranger-, 
 who held a huiX of if old in his hand. He insisted that I 
 lost it while pavnig the packer. I knew he was mista- 
 ken, and told him so, but he continued tt) iniiist until at 
 last I stuck it in my belt, until I should find an owner. 
 The bag was a heavy one, containing some five or six 
 pounds, but I thought I knew who had lost it, and kept 
 it by me. A few days after some of us went as far as 
 the store kept by Messrs. Wagoner k Chase, who at the 
 time had a keg of brandy going. Several people came 
 in, and among them was my man, and to him I restored 
 his lost property Then came the ([uestion of reward. 
 It was not an individual matter, by any means ; it mere- 
 ly amounted to spending one ounce out of six pounds, 
 to treat all hands, so as to celebrate the recovery of the 
 lost irold in the orthodox manner. At that time, and 
 with those surroundings, a "treat" meant the expendi- 
 ture of one ounce, or sixteen dollars, and he was, indeed, 
 looked upon as a very mean man who would refuse to 
 follow the rule. But it so happened that the stranger, 
 belonged to this penurious class, which, it nmst be ad- 
 mitted, was exceptionally rare in the diggings. He pos- 
 itively refused to spend more than half an ounce on the 
 celebration, and as we had a reputation to sustain, we 
 advised him accordingly. We told him that the kind of 
 company to which we belonged could not be treated in 
 this manner, — his offer was an insult to us, and he could 
 not do better than quit the premises in double-quick 
 time, which he did. In fact, no man ever went out of 
 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 89 
 
 Wagoner Si Chase's store more quickly tlian did tliis 
 fellow. This will show how the ideas of etiquette, of 
 usage and established custom, force tliemselves upon 
 all conunuities, even at early stages, and how aristocrat- 
 ic or })lebeian distinctions find a place there. I may re- 
 mark here, that the rule of spending one ounce on a 
 treat, was so strictly adliered to that, when there hap- 
 pened to be fewer men in the company than could get 
 away with the liquor, one of them would go outside and 
 drum up assistance from the passers-by, or neighbors. 
 
 One of these, who came up to engage in store-keep- 
 ing during that spring, was a Mr. McGhee. In addi- 
 tion to the usual stock of provisions and liquors, Mac 
 also brought a quantity of corn meal, and as this was 
 somethin<jf we had not known for many months, it was 
 appreciated. McGhee was a very good fellow, and he 
 invited us to come over to his store and see him. He 
 was located about where the St. Charles hotel now 
 stands, and he proved himself a most excellent host. 
 He treated us to a drink which he called "corn-meal- 
 fixinfjs," and I think he was the inventor of it. It con- 
 sisted of about a lialf a pint of brandy and water with a 
 little corn meal stirred up in it, and when the cup was 
 passed around, the unanimous verdict was that it was a 
 most excellent drink. He had to go some distance for 
 water, aud not infrequently, when he left us for that 
 purpose, we would help ourselves to the brandy, and 
 drinkincj it without either corn meal or water, and 
 agreed that, barring the water, it made just as good 
 a drink when partaken of neat. 
 
 At one time during this spring, I was taking it easy 
 for a few days. I had received a number of books and 
 papers and spent all my time in perusing them Some 
 men came up to my cabin and told me that the Kanakas 
 
 I 
 
 h 
 
 •III 1 
 
90 
 
 HUNTIXO FOR GOLD 
 
 r < 
 
 had struck it ricli at the head of Indian Creek, and 
 uri^ed me to come with them. I nmst a(hnit tliat I was 
 not eager to go. My newsi)apers, which by thr way 
 were the first ever riiad at tiie Forks, engrossed all my 
 attention, and I was somcswhat doubtful as to the truth 
 of the report. However, I ultimately consented to go 
 with them, and j)acking up a few New York Heralds 
 and provisions for three or four days, I got ready to 
 start. Of course it would not do to leave 'till after dark, 
 for fear of otliers following us. There were about a 
 dozen of us, and we presented an appearance very much 
 like a number of jail-breakers, as we made our way in the 
 dark, "coonini; the log," and creepiuij^ throuijh the brush 
 as silently as possible. We supj)osed, for sometime, that 
 we were the only ones in the secret, and were therefore 
 surprised, when, after beginning to climb the hill on the 
 other side of Breyfoyle Flat, we overtook a party of five, 
 who were nud-cin*; for tli(^ mvsterious dio-oinirs, Thev 
 were waitin<»' for one of their number, who had irone back 
 to fetch a few bottles so as to get up sufficient steam for 
 the ascent. We pushed on, and just as day was begin- 
 ning to peep over the hills, we came u{)on another party, 
 bouml for the same diggings. They were melting snow 
 for breakfast and we certainly thought that they wonld 
 be the last competitors, we should fall in with on the 
 road, but just as we came to the summit of the hill, we 
 overtook another party, traveling for dear life to get in 
 first. 
 
 At last we arrived at the place of our destination, and 
 we all made for the ravine wliere the gold was said to 
 be. But great was my surprise, when on my way to 
 that place, I met Jim Crow. He was at the head of the 
 Kanakas and held full sway over them. The place had 
 already been named Crow City, and the canyon is to this 
 
HrNTIN'C. FOR OOLD 
 
 01 
 
 day known as Jim Crow Canyon. The wliolc afl'air was 
 well not up, and tli.ey had already a very perfect organi- 
 zation, with laws and reyulations to (»'uid(3 them, and 
 over forty white men had [)ledged themselves to extend 
 to the Kanakas the some riu^hts that they enjoyed. 
 
 In regard to Jim Crow, he seemed even more sur- 
 prised than I, at our meeting, and told me a pack of lies 
 to exf)lain his singular conduct in leaving us in the lurch 
 last fall, but the fact remained that he really intended 
 to make his way back to our old camp, expecting to find 
 us all starved to death and probably our gold left, ready 
 to be taken away; at all events, a rich field to work in. 
 I never (jould understand how Jim raised money for the 
 outfit he was bossing on this occasion, after having spent 
 all he took away from our camp, but it is possible tliat 
 the "Blue Tent" people could tell a tale in tliis respect. 
 
 The di<j:ginj/s here did not bv far answer to the great 
 anticipations entertained of them. I for my own part 
 took it easy. I read my papers, and at once saw through 
 the game, and made up my mind not to excite myself 
 We camped against a huge log, the slope being so steep 
 that this was the only way in which we could obtain any 
 comfort, and when I had finished reading my papers 
 I returned to my own camp. 
 
 Many of those who had come there, enticed by the 
 rumors of great riches, were loth to leave. They had 
 an idea that the Kanakas were only waiting for the white 
 pet)ple to vacate, and then they would plunge into the 
 very richest places. Altogether there prevailed, at 
 that time, a singular superstition in regard to black or 
 colored men. They were looked upon as "mascots," 
 and it was a common belief that they had luck in seek 
 ing for gold. While in their company, Dutch, English, 
 French, or any other nationality, alike felt sure of the 
 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 // 
 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 1.25 
 
 2.5 
 
 S 1^ 1111120 
 
 12.2 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.6 
 
 V] 
 
 <^ 
 
 /2 
 
 % 
 
 'V' 
 
 7: 
 
 
 '/ 
 
 S 
 

92 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 tu 
 
 **(leacl wood." But my experience with Jim Crow was 
 such as to shake my faith in the race, and I made my 
 way back, perfectly satisfied to leave them behind. 
 
 OFF TO THE DIUUINyS. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 An Unfortunate Family — A Company of Sailors — After "Old 
 Dowuie" — Single Men and Married Men — William Slater's 
 Exit — A Note Due Over Forty Years — Law and Lawyers — 
 "Uncle Jimmie" — A Discourse About Drinking — My Claim 
 was (rone — The Eighth Commandment. 
 
 I cannot proceed without saying a few more words 
 about Sam Langton and his family. They came from 
 Washington City and met with a fate in CaHfornia which 
 was absolutely tragic. They were rich and influential 
 at one time, but the heavy failure of the Adams Express 
 Company practically ruined them financially, and tlie 
 family is now almost extinct. Sam Langton was killed 
 in Virginia City by a fall from his carriage; a younger 
 brother died in poverty in San Francisco some years 
 ago; and another brother — Tom Langton — was sent to 
 the insane asylum at Stockton, but has since so far re- 
 covered as to hold, at present, an official position at that 
 institution. One of the sisters pined to death grieving 
 for the loss of her husband, a noted Mountain express 
 rider, who lost his life in the execution of his duty; and 
 the widow and daughter of Sam Langton, perished a few 
 years ago in an avalanche at the Sierra Buttes. 
 
 Although I continued to keep my headquarters at, 
 what I will hereafter call Downieville, I spent the 
 greater part of my time prospecting in various parts of 
 the surrounding country. I nmst admit, that as I now 
 remember, I am surprised at the haste we often exhibi- 
 ted in leaving claims that paid us well, for strange loca- 
 
 93 
 
 ii 
 
M ' 
 
 94 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 tions and uncertain chances. It was a common occur- 
 rence for us to leave claims paying from three to four 
 ounces per day, or even as much as a pound, and pick- 
 incf our blankets over the mountains, with the sun beat- 
 ing on our backs and snow blinding our eyes, in search 
 of — we hardly knew what ourselves. But there are 
 circumstances over which men seem to have no control, 
 cdthough they are created by themselves, and so in those 
 days the life of the miner was a restless one ; the alluring 
 hope of greater treasures led him on and on, and in too 
 many cases he became like the rollins*- stone that lifathers 
 no moss, Hope too often ajipeared like the will-o-the- 
 wisp — a mere phantom that led us astray. 
 
 My company usually consisted of Scotch or English 
 sailors. They would come to San Francisco, generally 
 from Australia, and desert their ships to make for the 
 mines. When they arrived there, they would, for some 
 reason, frequently cast their lot with me, and after a 
 time, the "Major's" company became prettjMvell known. 
 It seems strange that, although I was a sailor, like 
 the rest, and at all times moderate in partaking of liquor, 
 the boys who followed me were nearly always a 
 hard drinking lot. On Saturday nights we would re- 
 turn to Downieville to celebrate our success, or try to 
 forget our disappointments. On such occasions, the 
 tlowinsjc bowl would not be left on the shelf, and as a 
 rule, the "boys" would divide their attention between it 
 and the gambling table, and often spend as nmch as 
 three or four thousand dollars before Monday morning. 
 
 Roving about the country as much as I did, and meet- 
 ing with a good deal of success at prospecting, I gratlu- 
 allv became known throuohout the i^^old-fields of the 
 Yuba. It was no uncommon thing for men to at- 
 tempt to watch my movements, or even plan some 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 95 
 
 means of robbing nie of iny wealth, and I have had sev- 
 eral strange adventures in this way. I was prospecting 
 at one time with John Bell, and we were cooking our 
 dinner, when I saw three men comin<jj alons^ in our di- 
 
 ' or? 
 
 reetion. They were covered with dust, and their clothes 
 had been torn in the thick chapparal through which 
 
 AFTER OLD DOWNIE 
 
 they had made their way. The perspiration stood in 
 large beads on their foreheads, and they could hardly 
 speak for want of breath. 
 
 "What's your hurry ?" I inquired. 
 
 One of the men threw down his pack, and winked his 
 
 i 
 
96 
 
 HUNTING FOR COLD 
 
 eye as he said in a half whisper : "We are after old 
 Dovvnie." 
 
 "The devil 1" I ejaculated. "What's the matter with 
 him ?" 
 
 The stransrer became more mysterious. At ui^t he 
 did not wish to speak, but I finally u^ot out of him that 
 "old Dow nie" had just made his way down the moun- 
 tain with a mule carrvins: a sack of nold. 
 
 I/O »~ 
 
 "When was he last seen ?'' I asked, greatly amused at 
 the whole afi'air. 
 
 But to this I could get no other reply than a vague 
 allusion to the "Bald Mountain" and the "Lone Tree," 
 which, together with the "Gold Lake," formed parts of 
 the myth of those regions. They were supposed to be 
 places where fabulous treasures might be found, but 
 their various locations were not generally known. When 
 a miner had struck it rich, and his companions did not 
 know where he had got it, it was put down as one of 
 the places referred to. There was nothing very singu- 
 lar in this, when it is borne in mind that every move 
 was made with the utmost secrecv, and miners them- 
 selves, as a rule, refused to speak of their finds. In re- 
 gard to the men in pursuit of myself, I will simply re- 
 mark that had their story been true, and they had met 
 "Old Downie" on a mule carrying a sack of gold, I 
 have no doubt, judging from their somewhat uncouth 
 appearance, that they would have forced me to sur- 
 render all, or part of it, or, at all events, to reveal the 
 location whence it came. 
 
 In selecting my men for prospecting purposes, I al- 
 ways preferred single men. Benedicts had too often 
 proved themselves a nuisance to me, and I had no use 
 for them. They would whine about their wives ; won- 
 der how their children were getting along ; speculate 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 97 
 
 upon the possibilities of a speedy return ; and at night, 
 when we bachelors rolled ourselves in our blankets and 
 slept the sleep of the just, they would grunt and groan, 
 and pray and weep, and gaze at the stars, and make 
 themselves unfit for the work on hand. A pater fnmil 
 iaa is a noble being in his right sphere, but in the gold 
 diggings, in nine cases out of ten, he appeared to me 
 entirely out of his element, and I religiously evaded him 
 whenever 1 could. 
 
 Trade was flourishing at Downieville as the season 
 advanced. ''Judge" Paxton opened a store on Jersey 
 Flat, and William Slater was doinii^ a rushino; but^iness 
 in whisky. He contemplated a trip to Sacramento for 
 a large supply oi' goods. In our camp we had not for- 
 gotten Slater's statement in regard to the value of gold- 
 dust, and we all afjreed that now was the chance to 
 make money. So we dug up our bags and gave them 
 to Slater to take down with him. We considered that 
 it was somewhat difficult to count with twenty-two, 
 which was the number of dollars promised us per ounce, 
 and so aojreed to allow the two dollars on each ounce, to 
 Slater. In addition to this, I made up a bag of speci- 
 mens, all fine nuggets, weighing over two pounds, and 
 told him to send it as a present to his wife in the States, 
 and so we bade Slater ''Farewell" and "God speed." 
 This was Slater's debut as an express messenger, and 
 he took with him about ^25,000 worth of gold. We 
 have never since seen the man we had nursed 
 through his sickness ; whose store we had patronized ; 
 and upon whose honesty we had implicitly relied. Sla- 
 ter never stopped until he reached San Francisco, and 
 from there he shipped directly for his eastern home. 
 Sometime after a man came up to the Yuba to try his 
 luck. He had met Slater on the Isthmus, and had 
 
 -J 
 
1:' 
 
 08 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 f ' 
 
 I ■ 
 
 been advised by hii.. to go up our way. Slater had spo- 
 ken kindly of us all, and in particular urged liini to 
 look u}) the "Major," whom he had described as one of 
 the best fellows in the world, ready to do all in his power 
 to assist a stranger. And this splendid recommenda- 
 tion we got for our hospitality, our confidence and our 
 gold, and it took us quite a while to persuade the new- 
 comer that a man who had spoken so warmly of us all, 
 could have treated us so badly as did Slater. 
 
 There were many who thought that "Cut-Eye" Fos- 
 ter had combined with Slater to rob us of our money, 
 but I believe, on the contrary, that he was one of Sla- 
 ter's victims, Foster was not so bad as thev made him 
 out to be. I have, already, to some extent, dwelt upon 
 his character. I am well aware that he was not over- 
 troubled with conscience, and that he did not hesitate 
 to drive strange stock to his rai.ch, if it chanced to mix 
 with his own, but such irregularities were not regarded 
 as serious offenses in those days, and the men who com- 
 mitted them did not consider themselves thieves, what- 
 ever the sufferers may have thought. He had a pro- 
 pensity for borrowing money, and I believe owes more to 
 his friends than any other man I have known. I have 
 held his note for over forty years, for a sum which, 
 with the accumulated interest, would now amount to 
 something over a million dollars. Some years ago I met 
 him up north, where he was farming, and he offered me 
 his ranch and several horses, but I was on my way to 
 the Idaho diggings, and making a "raise" there, 1 re- 
 fused his offer. One of Foster's good points was his na- 
 tive generosity. If A miner in needy circumstances ap- 
 plied to him, he received what he asked for, and if 
 he happened to be unable to pay the debt, Foster did 
 not v/orry him about it. Foster was also very kind 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 !)9 
 
 toward strangers who were taken srck, and more tlian 
 once kept men in his camp wlio, without liis assistance, 
 would have died from hunger, exposure and disease. 
 Surely, charity should cover a multitude of sins, and with 
 all his faults, "Cut-Eye" was by no means a bad man. 
 
 I have touched upon the advent of the legal talent, 
 and the influence it had on the comnmnity. As a mat- 
 ter of course, the lawyers came as t^oon as the election 
 had given a Justice of the Peace to Downieville, and the 
 number of suits brought during the first year, will show 
 that there was no fear of them starvinir. One of the 
 earliest suits brought was caused by a dispute over a 
 claim, belonging to "Uncle Jinimie." "Uncle" played 
 a conspicuous part in the early days of Downieville. He 
 was a shrewd, sharp business man, who never let an op- 
 portunity escape, when a gain could be made. He ran 
 the Gem saloon: and it was a <j:einl He had a monte 
 table going day and night and treated all strangers who 
 came in, and he had a very char idea of the persuasive 
 powers of grog. With him the adage was, "one drink of 
 brandy makes the whole world akin," and he used it as 
 a maxim, by which he greatly ])r()fited. Tlie claim in 
 dispute was located on the upper end of Jersey Flat and 
 extended into the river to low-water mark. The river 
 was flumed, and for this reason the line of demarkation 
 was not very distinctly defined, and on the day of the 
 trial the jury and witnesses were called upon to closely 
 examine into the situation. Uncle was up to the occa- 
 sion. His proverbial liberality came to the front, and 
 he put up a free bottle at the Gem. Jury, witnesses 
 and everybody else, took advantage of the opportunity 
 to get free drink, and by the time the examination was 
 over, the tramping of feet in the sand, and the efl'ect of 
 the grog on their visual organs had made it an impossi- 
 
 
 
 I 
 
100 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 It i 
 
 l)ility to discern the line of so much legal importance, and 
 the verdict was given in favor of 'Uncle Jimmie" That 
 niijht there was a bii; time at Downiovillc, anda jj^eneral 
 "jamhoree" took place. There was nothing mean ahout 
 the hmdlord of the Gem. He had won the suit, and he 
 was willing to expros his satisfacti(jn, according to the 
 rules erf the community. The drawing of the corks 
 was a thing unknown in those quarters, the necks of 
 the bottles being simply knocked off, and uncle was an 
 expert in thnt line. 
 
 And what a scene to behold! 
 
 "Brandy or Champagnei^" called "Uncle," and the 
 desired drink was forthcominGr. 
 
 "Fall back all you, who have just had a drink and let 
 the "boys" have a chance." 
 
 "Get out on the street somebody, and tell all hands 
 to come in, Uncle is just going to stand another basket." 
 
 Such was the talk, and the liquor flowed in an endless 
 stream, and men drank till they reeled, and even then 
 Went on drinking. And vet, there must be something 
 in drinking, which is sublime, for I find in the ancient 
 mvthologies that even the Gods of the Greeks and 
 Norsemen held \u<yh carnival with mead and wine, and 
 they were not ashamed to let drink master them at 
 times. And yet both these races were brave, bold and 
 intelligent, and they have both had a great deal of 
 healthful influence on the further development of the 
 world. Be this as it may, the miners of the early days 
 were a sturdy lot. They indulged in drinking at times, it 
 is true, but they bore hardships and endured privations 
 at other times, with a fortitude which made them heroes, 
 and at the sacrifice of comforts, often of health or even 
 life, they helped to make the world richer, if not happier. 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 101 
 
 Naturally a great many lawsuits were brought about 
 through disputed claims, but the losers never seemed to 
 take their defeat much to heart. "Let her rip I" was 
 the usual exclamation when a man was told that he had 
 lost his claim. The revel went on all the same, and the 
 man without a claim would soon get another. There 
 was plenty of gold up and down the Yuba, in tht)se days, 
 and yet I met men, right in the hey-day of the gold dis- 
 coveries there, who were making for the American riv- 
 er, asserting that the gold was all dug up on the Yuba. 
 
 I had a lawsuit, myself, at one time, with some 
 fellows who came from the South Yuba, attempt- 
 ing to take possession of Downieville by jumping 
 claims, and they ultimately called a public meeting 
 for the purpose of introducing new laws. But in this 
 they failed. Our code had proved entirely satisfactory, 
 so far, and we did not propose to let these strangers run 
 our affairs. They then changed their tactics and jumped 
 all the claims of the "foreiirners," and anionic others, 
 mine. But I soon vindicated my rights as an American 
 citizen, notwithstanding the fact that I was born in 
 Scotland and "proud of the land that gave me birth" 
 My accusers were fined fifty dollars and costs, but what 
 ever became of that monev, 1 never could learn, and 
 suspect that it was sunk in ale. This beverage had been 
 introduced in Downieville during the summer of fifty. 
 It came in bottles, and soon became a very popular 
 drink, and I remember beinij: in court when, durinir the 
 sitting, several adjournments were had for the purpose of 
 of indulging in bottled ale. In those days attorneys 
 could not speak as fluently as they can to-day, without 
 a draught,and a bottle of ale seemed to have a magic effect 
 upon them. The Judge, himself, enjoyed the amber 
 fluid as much as any, and the only reason it was not 
 
 r 
 
' 
 
 j( 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 103 
 
 partaken of in the court room, so as to save ^o;n<^ out, 
 was tlie fact that his Honor ol)je(.'ted to the slops on liis 
 tahle, and so preferred adjournin*^ court. 
 
 The claim I had recovered hy law, I sold shortly 
 afterwards to a young married man called "Bonney." 
 His wife lived in the States, and he was anxious to 
 return as soon as possible, with some kind of a fortune. 
 As he did not have much money, I sold him the claim 
 on easy terms. He was to trive me two-thirds of the 
 proceeds, as they came out, until he had paid for it. I 
 do not recommend this as a u^ood way of disposing of a 
 claim, and on the present occasion I certainly became 
 the loser. 
 
 My customer had every reason to be satisfied. For 
 
 two or three days he paid my share conscientiously, and 
 this amount ran over a thousand dollars per day, but 
 then I had to leave, on a prospecting tour. I was away 
 for about two weeks, and when I returned the bird had 
 flown. My eastern friend was making for home with a 
 pocket full of money, and had disposed of my claim to 
 somebody else. I lost not only a splendid claim but two 
 tents that were on it, a supply of cooking utensils, two 
 gold-scales and a number of other things, which I. had 
 left there with full confidence in the honesty of th^ man, 
 to whom I had sold, I made up my mind that hence- 
 forth I would have no dealings with married men, and 
 I trust my reader does not blame me. 
 
 In these days we had neither locks, bars nor bolts on 
 our doors, and sometimes indeed, we were duly prevented 
 from indulirins: in such luxuries throuyjh the entire ab- 
 sence of the door itself The burglar alarm, as we un- 
 derstood that term, to use a legal phrase came "after the 
 the fact." It was a process without the expenditure of 
 county money, it chiefly concerned the robbers individ- 
 
104 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ually, and the sequence was in nearly all instances 
 certain death. There were no extenuatino; circunistan- 
 ces to bo advanced, when the crime was theft. I remem- 
 ber one day coming past a rock upon which lay a buck- 
 skin puj.se, stuffed, and to all appearance, containing 
 probably a thousand dollars in dust There was nobody 
 in siijtht, but I doubted not that the ri^jhtful owner was 
 in hiding somewhere near, and I passed by on the oppo- 
 site side of the road, feeling sure that anyone attempt- 
 ing to touch that purse, would be immediately intro- 
 duced to Judge Lynch. It is true that we were not alto- 
 gether a pious settlement, but for obvious reasons we 
 kept the eighth commandment for all it was worth, and 
 it may be that if matters were dealt with in the same 
 manner to-day, there would be less thieving than there 
 is. The penal code of the early days in the mining 
 camps, was undoubtedly severe, but it was wonderfully 
 effective. 
 
 I 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 A Spree for a Tip — Our Social Couditious — The Glorious Fourth 
 — A Dinner at Galloway's — A Fight for Blood — A Speeds- 
 Trial — Thirty-nine Lashes — Big Logan — A Singular Suicide — 
 Prospecting with Kanakas — A Rough Journey — Verdant 
 Pastures. 
 
 As a matter of course our prospecting tours could not 
 always be attended with succees, but we took care to ap- 
 pear, on our return, as if we had achieved satisfactory 
 results. I remember once being away for some time and 
 bringing up at Charlie Simmons' on my return, while 
 the "boys" went down to Downieville. We had not 
 been very lucky, but we did not propose to make that 
 anybody else's business. The *boys," as usual, wanted a 
 spree after their hardships, but not having made it, they 
 did not feel inclined to spend their money, and Joe, one 
 of the cfowd, cast about for some cheap manner in which 
 to celebrate their return The opportunity soon pre- 
 sented itself The hombres,''' who were naturally a 
 curious lot, were in the habit of inviting returning pros- 
 pectors to their cabins, treating them to drink and then 
 would attem^pt to pump them. It was of this custom 
 that our friend Joe took advantage for the benefit of 
 hi^nself and his mates. 
 
 Being invited into a cabin, they were first offered a 
 few drinks, and then the questioning began. Joe pre- 
 tended to be getting confidential. He gave a knowing 
 
 * A Spanish word meaning companion, here used as meaning 
 certain classes of the miners. 
 
 J 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 I 
 
106 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 [ 
 
 li 
 
 ; 1 
 
 wink, and intimated that by and by he would tell them 
 something worth knowing. More grog was passed out, 
 and such of the "boys" as had not yet been asked to 
 come in, were called up, and it was suggested that Joe 
 should reveal his secret ; but he told them not to be in 
 a hurry. Brandy flowed fast and freely, and everyone 
 went to bed half-seas over, to get up and resume the 
 spree next morning. Their entertainers thought that, 
 no doubt, Joe would tell them if his speaking organs 
 were properly lubricated, and their faith in the "Major's" 
 luck was great. In the course of the day the question 
 was again put to Joe. "Keep dark, and I will tell you,'' 
 he said. "Not a word about this ! Do you understand ? 
 Nobody must know where you get it from." 
 
 "You need not fear,'^ came back the answer. "Do you 
 think 1 would be such a fool as to mention it ?" 
 
 "I don't know when the 'Major' is going out again, 
 but I am ojoing- with him. when he does oo. It is rich : 
 you bet it is rich !" 
 
 "Well," said the expectant host, "how nmch ?" 
 
 Joe had a way of speaking, which inspired confidence. 
 He put both hands on the shoulders of his interrogator, 
 looked him straight in the eyes and said, in an under- 
 tone : 
 
 "Just $500 to the pan." 
 
 The eyes, cheeks and mouth of the listener expand- 
 ed into an expression of supreme satisfaction. "And 
 where is it ?" lie stammered, trying to fill his lungs, from 
 which the breath had almost escaped. Joe put his mouth 
 to the fellow's ear and whispered the direction, an entirely 
 imaginary one, as the location only existed in Joe's 
 inventive brain ; but the information was well worth 
 more drink, and a protracted spree followed, after which 
 the hombres stole out of camp in the dead of night and 
 
 ;!■ > 
 it 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 107 
 
 made for the newly-discovered diggings ''over the hills 
 and far away." 
 
 My narrative now takes me up to the time when, for 
 the second time in th-e far West, I should celebrate that 
 greatest of American festivals, the Fourth of July. My 
 reader will, no doubt, remember my brief mention of 
 this celebration when, as a new-comer, I had only been 
 in San Francisco one week. Strange, indeed, did the 
 scenes appear to me then, as they unfolded themselves 
 before my wondering gaze, but as I remembered the past 
 year, what scenes far stranger still, lay before me, in 
 many of which I had played a most important part, 
 I had imagined, when I left San Francisco, that 1 should 
 spend my near future in the (juietude of isolated places, 
 but I had found, as time passed by, that one of the main 
 arteries of the world's great heart throbbed with quick 
 pulsation in the very surroundings where T had lived 
 and toiled in suffering, or in the enjoyment of life. I 
 had seen the most varied phases of life — men, with 
 many thousands of dollars within easy reach, starving 
 for the want of food, and others living on the charity of 
 their fellow-men for want of means; and I had seen 
 men's passions rise until they carried away reason and 
 made human brutes of those who felt their sway. There 
 were many well-known scenes that greeted me in the 
 retrospective view of that one year, and while some of 
 them were terrible to behold, there were manv others 
 pleasing enough, reminding me of happy moments spent 
 in congenial company or among men whose motto was: 
 ''Begone, dull carel" 
 
 There can be no doubt that men are moulded by cir- 
 cumstances. They assume characteristics according to 
 the circumstances that surround them. The lawyer, the 
 soldier, the scientist, are all different in their modes of 
 
 1 1 
 
 
"I 
 
 all 
 
 i\ 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 109 
 
 thinking and their ways of acting. The sailor is blunt; 
 the tradesman suave and respectful. The California 
 |)i()neer miner was a being entirely distinct from any of 
 his fellow beinofs. He was rouyrh, darinor, indefatigable 
 The nature in which he lived, and the object for which 
 he toiled, made him so. But he was also generous, often 
 to lavishness. He knew what it meant to suffer want, 
 and he did not wish anyone else to experience it. He 
 often made a fortune in the course of a few hours, and 
 the value he placed upon it was small and in proj)ortion 
 to the brief space of time it took him to accumulate it. 
 His associates were drawn from all classes, but on the 
 gold-field in the early days, everybody was on the same 
 level. Class distinctions crept in later on, it is true, but 
 they were not known among the earliest pioneers, and 
 when they came, they appeared in the same garb as they 
 do to-day under our present conditions— the garbof **one 
 man-richer-than-tlie other." 
 
 Early in the history gf California mining, various ele- 
 ments crept in which tended to degrade and demoralize 
 the community to some extent. The grog-vendor and 
 the monte-banker became responsible for much trouble. 
 Men who counted money of so little value, ai«. did many 
 of these miners, were not calculated to resist temptation, 
 when thrown in their way as the only recreation obtain- 
 able, and as a result, irregularities followed. But the 
 reckless spirit of that period prompted the comnmnity to 
 make short work of the offenders. I have shown 
 already how we made our own laws, but sometimes the 
 court was spared any trouble in the matter through 
 immediate action on the part of the crowd or offended 
 parties; and if a criminal went into court, the jury under- 
 stood the desire of the public and gave a verdict accord- 
 ingly. In all such cases the severest punishment was 
 
 i 
 
IH ^ 
 
 i 
 
 110 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 n 
 
 I 
 
 Ml 
 
 !! 
 
 fV 
 
 fji 
 SI 
 
 meted out, and lynch-law often resorted to. It was the 
 natuml outcome of conditions which called for strict and 
 decisive measure as the only means of subduing a spirit 
 of lawlessness and a tendency to crime, and above all, 
 theft and nmrder were vigorously prosecuted, and in 
 either case, death was almost the inevitable sequence. 
 I have made the above remarks with a view to explain, 
 and to some extent excuse some of the more strikinjx 
 occurences that took place at Downieville in the early 
 days. 
 
 Everything looked festive when the sun appeared 
 over the lofty Sierras on that 4th of July morning. On 
 Jersey Flat and up and down the Yuba, all around the 
 Forks wherever tent or cabin served as habitation, the 
 Stars and Stripes had been exhibited, denoting enthu- 
 siasm — not only on the part of native Americans, but on 
 the part of the many who had sworn allegiance to the 
 flag, and under its protection were seeking to make 
 themselves and the world richer. As a matter of course, 
 the store-keepers were kept busy, as the day wore on. 
 Wherever there was a kefj containinsr stronof drink, 
 clusters were gathered within or without, as space would 
 allow, and men took turns to get to the counter and 
 drink to the glorious Fourth. Where one year ago the 
 timid deer gazed on the verdant meadow, undisturbed, 
 save for the casual appearance of some Indian hunter, 
 echoed on this day hundreds of jubilant shouts, while 
 the miner forgot his toil and his tools lay idle on the 
 deserted claims. The Downieville of to-day, presents a 
 very different appearance from what it did then, and I 
 
 doubt if, with all the national enthusiasm that fires 
 its present loyal inhabitants, it would be possible to get 
 up as much steam for a Fourth of July celebration, as 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 111 
 
 we did on this, our first observance of the national holi- 
 da}" in those (juarter^i. 
 
 At Galloway's an elaborate dinner was prepared. It 
 was not served a la Rasse or in the so-called, French 
 style, there were no gilt-edged menu cards to tell us 
 what the next course would be; neither were we waited 
 upon by men in swallow-tails and white shirt fronts; nor 
 did we drink wine from crystal goblets but we had 
 the best that could be procured where money was no 
 object, and where the only impediments were the 
 distance from the market and the difficulties of iifettinsf 
 there. Mrs. Galloway had prepared the dinner, and it 
 was pronounced "fit for a prince." Bottled ale played 
 an important part on that occasion, and it was varied 
 with something stronger of different kinds. The company 
 became animated and toast followed toast. We drank 
 to the Star Spangled Banner, to George Washington 
 and the galaxy of states — men and soldiers who had 
 shared the laurels with him, to the American nation in 
 general and the constitution in particular; to absent 
 friends and to everything and anything else that it was 
 possible to toast. 
 
 Meanwhile the carousing;' had been jjoing: on in other 
 parts of the settlement, and in the afternoon men began 
 to get hilarious. Shots were fired from guns and pis- 
 tols, and the racket increased until the general tunmlt 
 and excitement assumed dimensions which could hardlv 
 
 t/ 
 
 be exceeded by a modern celebration, when fire crackers, 
 brass bands and processions are brought into action. 
 Then occurred the first incident of which I am about to 
 speak. 
 
 Two men, who had been indulging in the fiery liquid 
 until their brains became giddy, had a quarrel. It 
 passed from words to blows, and the fight became furi- 
 
 N 
 
 ^ 1 
 
 1 i 
 
 1 ! 
 
 i 
 1 
 
i\ 
 
 112 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 , f ' 
 
 f. 
 
 
 H: 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 M,. 
 
 1 
 
 Wl 
 
 
 m ; 
 
 
 '■ '' 
 
 
 ous. In the heat of passion one of tlieni drew a knife^ 
 and before his adversary could ward oti' the thrust, or 
 by-standers interfere, he sunk it deep into his oppo- 
 nent's body. The blood spurted out, as the wounded 
 man sank to the ground. The wound did not prove a 
 daiiijferous one, but at the time no one knew the extent 
 of the injury done, and the sight of blood inflamed the 
 crowd with any^er towards the man who did the stab- 
 biny-. He was seized and bound, and while a few attend- 
 ed to the wounded man, the miscreant was at once 
 brought to justice. He was comparatively a stranger 
 and no doubt thoUii:ht that in these rouoh surroundinLTS 
 the use of a knife was in order. But the jury saw no 
 extenuating circumstances which could excuse him, and 
 he was sentenced to thirty-nine lashes on the bare back. 
 There was no reason to postpone the execution of jus- 
 tice, and while the slanting rays of the midsummer sun 
 fell upon the scene, and the hot air filled the valley with 
 an ahnost stifling atmosphere, the wretched man was 
 brought out to receive his punishment. He was tied hand 
 and foot to a slender tree, and the fioij^ginyj infiicted with 
 a stout strip of rawhide. It was a sickeninu' sij^ht to 
 behold. "Big" Logan, who wielded the instrument ot 
 torture, was a large, limscular man, whose sinewy arms 
 denoted enormous strength. He was a sailor by occupa- 
 tion, but had lately driven an ox team across the plains, 
 and was well practiced in the use of a whip, and more- 
 over he was a cousin of the injured man. It may, there- 
 fore, be easily understood that he performed his task in a 
 manner which would have done credit to any Siberian 
 executioner, of whom Kenna or Paradyce has written. 
 The unfortunate culprit writhed in agony, as the heavy 
 strokes fell upon his body, which became more and more 
 lacerated by each blow that ta.])ped the blood from his 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 113 
 
 veins, and at last, Logan secniod the only man in the 
 crowd who was entirely unmoved by the horrible spec- 
 tacle. 
 
 Thijs same Loo-an was an extraordinary man. He will 
 be mentioned later on, as playing a jn-ominent part in 
 another dramatic occurrence which took place one year 
 later, but I cannot here refrain from savins^ a few words 
 concerniny: his own remarkable career and end. 
 
 He was seemingly a man entirely void of any nobler 
 sentiments. Sympathy seemed strange to him, and fear 
 he did not know. He was cool, indifferent to circum- 
 stances, strong in the knowledge of liis own physical 
 power, and a giant in proportions, yet he was not 
 vicious, except his passions were aroused, when he became 
 ferocious. What other men shrunk from, he could do 
 in cold blood without flinching, and therefore he was 
 repeatedly called upon to act as executioner when the 
 sentence of the law demanded one. He performed his 
 task with neither hesitation nor pleasure ; he simply 
 seemed to do it because he was a.sked to do it, just as 
 he would have lent a man a tool, or otherwise accommo- 
 dated him, if requested to do so. 
 
 Still, for some reasons, I think that Logan had a liking 
 for revolting scenes, and concealed his satisfaction under 
 a cloak of assumed indifference. When afterwards 
 Walker got ready for his famous Nicaragua expedition, 
 liOgan enlisted in his battalion and went with him. It 
 was while fi*jhtinfy a savao;e foe in those reo^ions, that 
 Logan volunteered to pass in his checks rather than to 
 allow himself to be taken prisoner, and perhaps be sub- 
 jected to some such tortures as he had inflicted upon 
 others without flinching. It is hard to say whether he 
 was prompted by courage or cowardice, but when he 
 saw himself surrounded by the enemy, instead of 
 
I I 
 
 1 
 
 lU 
 
 HUNTINO roR (iOLD 
 
 surrundorin^, ho diseni^'-aijjod tlio bayonet from liis rifle;, 
 and [)icrciiiL»- his <>\vii licart with it, tell dead at the feet 
 of his captors. 
 
 CATCHINO BREAKFAST ON THE YUBA. 
 
 This was the strange end of a remarkable man. He 
 was repulsive rather than otherwise, but the singular 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 115 
 
 Tiianner of his deatli threw a halo over his niomcry, 
 which in the eyes of many raised him to a hero. 
 
 But I return to my story of the 4tii of July. The 
 excitement continued till far into the nioht. The tioij- 
 gini]f scene was soon forgotten by everybody except the 
 culprit, and "Big" Logan, who was treated by all his 
 admirers who ap})reciated his nerve and herculean 
 strength. The miners drank in bumpers, while the gold 
 Hew over the counters in the stores where grog was 
 dispensed. The keeper of the monte table called for 
 attention, and fickle fortune was tempted while the night 
 passed on, and the day of liberty had been spent in a 
 manner worthy of its cause, proving that morally and 
 physically, the celebrants, with one exception, knew 
 neither shackles nor fetters. 
 
 It may be remarked in connection with this, that the 
 flogging of that day had a remarkably healthy influence 
 on our comnmnity. The miners had established a prec- 
 edent, and whenever anybody flourished a knife in an 
 angry moment, it was merely necessary to remind him 
 of what happened on the Fourth of Jul}', and for a long 
 time the eflTect of such a reminder, was simply magical. 
 
 About this time I had opened a store on Kanaka Flat, 
 in partnership with a man named H, B. Cossitt. He 
 was to run the store, while I went prospecting, for the 
 in-door life of store-keeping was not according to my 
 taste. I was nearly always traveling about, looking for 
 new diggings, and was, as a rule, very fortunate in pros- 
 pecting. Among the men who belonged to my company, 
 was a Kanaka who went by the name of John Wilson. 
 He spoke but imperfect English, but he was fond of 
 telling, us in his best lingo, that in his own country he 
 was a Prince and looked upon with much reverence. 
 When addressing us, he would strike his breast and say: 
 
 I 
 
IIG 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 i! 
 
 "Mc prince in my own country; nie u^n-at man; me very 
 l)ii^ iiuin at iiomc." It would seem that this darU-iiued 
 min(!r was roallv a incmbor of the illustrious Kamehaine- 
 lia family, and I have been told that lie was afterwards 
 unidc Kinij of the Sandwii'h Islands. I do not know 
 liow far this statement is true, hut he is by no means 
 the oidy man with whom I have worked in the mines, 
 whether white or colored, who claimed close relationship 
 with famous men, and at times succeeded to prominent 
 positions in the world. He was one (mt of many of this 
 class who came to the gold-fields to find out thnt birth 
 and associations did not lielp a man to discover gold, and 
 who, after spending many weary months in blasting rocks 
 or damming rivers, without finding the color, have at 
 last come to the conclusion that Dame Fortune chooses 
 her favorites independently of their rank. 
 
 It was getting on towards the Fall, and I thought I 
 Would make one more prospecting tour, before the season 
 closed. I took four Kanakas with me, and left Kanaka 
 Flat with a donkey packed with provisions sufficient to 
 last us for a few weeks. My ambition was to get to one 
 particular mountain, situated near the pass at the head 
 waters of the South P^ork, as I expected to find plent^'of 
 gold there. The mountain was shaped like the roof of a 
 liouse, and summer and winter its summit was covered 
 with snow. I did not think tb.at it was very far distant, 
 but discovered, 'ere long, that my judgment was consider- 
 ably at fault. It is altogether remarkable how the chap- 
 paral will deceive in the matter of distances. One may 
 think himself fast approaching a towering mountain, and 
 suddenly discover that he has miles to travel before 
 reaching it, and I have often in this manner been re- 
 minded of the journey of life, where we are always look- 
 ing ahead to some sunny spot before us, wliich seems con- 
 
 Lia 
 
hi'ntinh; for c.om) 
 
 117 
 
 tinually to recede, as we advance. Our journey proved full 
 of ditiiculties. We crossed the Nortli Yuha and kept u\) 
 tlie divide, until we caiue to the meadows, ai)()ut where 
 Jackson's ranch now stands, but after tliat our trcuhles 
 increased. The Cha{)[)aral was iu some i)laces impcne- 
 trahle, and our donkey «»ot stuck, pack and all, and we 
 liad to cut him out with hatcliets and make a way for 
 him, and tliis o[)eration was not unhke the cuttinj^ 
 tlirou«j;h the ice to f^et a ship out of the Hoes. At other 
 times, in descending UKJuntains, the decHvity would he so 
 steep that the poor brute could not walk down. Then 
 we liad t(^ un[)ack its burden and lower it over the shelv- 
 ing rock, and afterwards rope the donkey down; and this 
 same operation we reversed, when ascending a similar 
 stuep incline. One night we camped on one of these 
 shelves. Darkness had come u{)on us, and we could not 
 safely proceed. We had no water, but far below our feet 
 we heard the rushinu; of the mountain stream, babblin<r 
 its lullaby to us in a tantalizing manner, while we had 
 nothing with which to quench our thirst. But privations 
 in those days had become a matter of usage, and they 
 were soon forgotten. Camped in such places, the "boys" 
 generally invented some kind of sport asa divertisement, 
 and it was a common thing to see them setting fire to 
 the moss on the bark of the trees and watch the blaze 
 run up to tlie top of the mighty trunk. Or, if it 
 were daylight, they would loosen rocks and bowlders and 
 send them crashiuir down the mountain side. I have 
 seen them prying, four or five at a time, at some huge 
 bowlder, and when it rolled down with ever-increasing 
 force, they would watch it with the same interest as the 
 sports watch a horse-race. 
 
 At last we reached our mountain, and as we traveled 
 round it, it assumed all sorts of shapes, but the gold 
 
I Mi. 
 
 I 
 
 118 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 'I 
 
 ■ B 
 
 '; i 
 
 
 which we expected to find lying loose on the surface 
 was not there, although there was plenty of slate and 
 black sand and (quartz, and I still believe that there is 
 gold there, although we did not find it. 
 
 Our provisions were now getting scarce, and we were 
 afl'raid of being overtaken by the winter storms, so we 
 made for home. We kept on the outskirts of the chap- 
 parel and passed through meadows and the most luxur- 
 ious pastures. On Wolf creek we found gold, and there 
 fell in with Mr. Fugent and my old friend, Jack Smith, 
 who were prospecting. From th-^re I went down to 
 Downieville, more particularly to report the discovery of 
 pastural land, and then returned to my store on Kanaka 
 Flat. 
 
 Hit 
 
 iii 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Another Winter in the Mountains — Captain Thomas R. Stoddarc^l— 
 Two "Well-known Millionaires — Fifteen-Hundred Dollars a Day 
 — Gold on the Wagon Tires — Sleeping on a Fortune — Fluni- 
 ing a River — Poorman's Creek — Back to Downieville — Ten 
 Bits to the Pan — Rantedodler Bai' — Sunday Reminiscences. 
 
 Let me briefly take my readers throug^h the winter of 
 *50 '51. It wasduring that period that some of the 
 richest treasures hidden in California soil were unearth- 
 ed, and our company was undoubtedly instrumental in 
 creating that tremendous excitement which in the fol- 
 lowing spring, swept over the diggings in our part of the 
 world, and caused many miners to abandon their claims 
 to go in search of other and better chances. 
 
 The Yuba began to look bare, as the fall advanced. 
 At Kanaka Flat the sable hunters became more scarce, 
 as they went below for the winter, and I regret to say, 
 most of them without settlinijf their bills at our store. 
 
 I had been in a similar position before, and when I 
 desired to move away, had simply settled all accounts by 
 burning my books and giving the balance of my stock 
 away, as I never allowed myself to cry over spilt milk. 
 On the present occasion, my partner went down to Marys- 
 ville to see about a fresh supply of stores, and I got ready 
 to look for other digjii^inofs. 
 
 I had in my company at that time, a few old stand- 
 bys — men on whom I could rely, and who had been with 
 me all along, with one exception. They were Charlie 
 Thompson, "Dutch" Harry, little Mike Duvarney and 
 Captain Thomas R. Stoddard. The latter was compa.- 
 
 
 119 
 
120 
 
 HUNTINCi FOR (iOLD 
 
 il 
 
 ntivelv a ncw-coiiior a.nioiio"st us. Ho was a roiiiarkablc 
 man. and played a puculiar part in tho early history of 
 California mininLf. Mor(3 than any other, ho eontril)uted 
 towards the sensation caused by tho rumors of the "Gold 
 Lake" diirsjfiiiixs, to which reference has already been 
 made. He insisted that lie had been there, and lie told 
 some romantic tales of encounters with Indians, and 
 showed a scar below his knee, where the Redskins had 
 wounded him with an arrow. He also told how, on his 
 rii''ht from them, he had made his way across the 
 mountains and the middle Yuba, but his accounts were 
 incoherent, and in some respects appeared im})rol)al)le. 
 He was possessed of a gentlemanly bearin_L»', and of more 
 than ordinary education, and undoul)tedly belonged to a 
 good family. But my impression is that he was not 
 mentally well balanced. Be this as it may, the miners 
 had a dislike for him because of his singular stories, 
 which had disappointed the hopes of a good many of 
 them, and I had taken hhy-. into my company partly for 
 the purpose of protecting him. He would often say, 
 when we struck anything particulai'ly rich, "At Gold 
 Lake w^e would not consider this worth picking up." 
 But the location of this w<)nderful place remained forever 
 a mystery. 
 
 I was determined to try my luck in Plumas county, 
 and got everything ready for a start, and v/ith my com- 
 pany and a couple of horses made my way across the 
 mountains to the north of Downieville. We met with 
 the usual hardships, and found Sear's Diggings aban- 
 doned, tho miners having left after tho first storm. 
 There were only two cabins on the field at that time, 
 and in one of these deserted habitations wo found a 
 quantity of fiour which had been left in the hurry of 
 departure. 
 
 ii! 
 
 !ii 
 
122 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 We took the trail for Poonnan's Creek, and found 
 that nearly everybody had left for the winter. But we 
 decided to make our camp here, so we located a claim 
 on the left-hand side of the creek, below the first fall, 
 and were soon taking out plenty of gold. We found the 
 precious metal in big lumps, weighing from one pound 
 to twenty-five ounces, and set to work to build a cabin 
 in this El Dorado. Not longj after we were settled, 
 Messrs. Flood and O'Brien called at our camp. They 
 had been prospecting in the locality, but had not found 
 any of the lum})s, and were surprised when we showed 
 them our find. They remained for a few days with us, 
 and then left for parts unknown, but their phenomenal 
 success in later years, makes up for their disappointment 
 on Poorman's creek, when they made a"ten-strike"in the 
 silver mines of Nevada, the celebrated Comstock lode, 
 as did also several old-timers of the Yuba diooinorg ^ 
 train of fifty-three pack mules came up about this time 
 with provisions, and I was glad to give some of our 
 lumpy gold in exchange for the whole stock, after whieji 
 we built a cabin and made ourselves comfortable for the 
 winter. 
 
 We had every reason to be satisfied, as we were tak- 
 ing out from ten to fifteen hundred dollars a day, but 
 yet, we often discussed the next move to be made with 
 the return of spring. The wonderful tales that Captain 
 Stoddard used to tell, made some of us wish to try and 
 find Gold Lake, or at all events, some other spot, richer 
 still than where we were located ; but our prospecting 
 fever reached its climax long before we expected. 
 
 One day two men found their way down the creek, 
 and like all stragglers, made a bee-line for Major 
 Downie's cabin. We found them there on our return 
 that evening. They were making themselves comfort- 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 123 
 
 able by the fire, and soon proved very agreeable fellows. 
 They stayed with us for several days, and saw the rich 
 gold we took out, and when thoy became familiar 
 enough to impart a secret, they told us of a wonderful 
 "strike" they had made in coming over the mountains. 
 They described the location fully, and told us that they 
 had found surface gold in lumps so large that they had 
 hammered tliem on the wagon tires. They stated that 
 as they did not know much about gold, they were not 
 sure whether they had really struck it or not, but their 
 description left no doubt in our minds that they had 
 found the genuine article. 
 
 We all listened eagerly to their accounts, and even Cap- 
 tain Stoddard began to think that the fabulous riches of 
 Gold Lake had been surpassed. As to myself, I admit 
 that I was staggered by tlieir accounts. I gave them a 
 good deal of consideration, and it seemed to me that 
 these strangers must have discovered the fountain-head 
 of all the lumpy gold in these p'arts. I imagined, and 
 with some reason, that our late finds were merely the 
 tail-end of an auriferous comet, so to speak — the nucleus 
 of which might be found somewhere, and probably existed 
 exactly where our visitors indicated ; and building up 
 up such a theory in my own mind, I determined to find 
 the place. It was arranged that my partner, Mr, Cos- 
 sitt should open a store on the creek as a stand-by, while 
 I went in search of the treasure. 
 
 At Downeiville I made up a company of six, among 
 whom were Dr. Young and Henry Cosair. We went 
 north, crossing Little Canyon Creek, but when we 
 got to Big Canyon Creek, there was no way of getting 
 over but by wading. It was very cold. The snow lay 
 upon the mountains, and the water that came down was 
 chilled with it ; but we had no alternative, and so we 
 
II n ' 
 
 1 1 
 
 n 
 
 \ : i 
 
 I 
 
 124 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 stripped and waded in up to our armpits in snow-water, 
 carrying" our packs on our heads. Truly tlie magnetic 
 pole has no greater power over the needle of the compass, 
 than has gold ov^er the desire of man, and in those days 
 the pioneer miners would dare and do anything for the 
 lust of it. On the opposite shore we had to make our 
 way over frozen snow. The incline was steep, and we 
 were often obli«jfed to cut our foot-holds in the snow, but 
 we braved the difficulties, and at last reached the Red 
 Mountams. 
 
 We soon arrived at the conclusion that we were on a 
 wild-goose chase. All our prospecting failed to reveal 
 the expected treasures, and the chisel, which one of our 
 party had brought for the purpose of breaking the large 
 lumps with, proved superfluous. The gold (]uarry, of 
 which we were in search, could not be found, and we 
 turned our steps towards the North Yuba, this time 
 crossing Canyon Creek without trouble. None of us had 
 any fault to find. We had become used to disappoint- 
 ments of this kind, and when, that night, we camped at 
 the Buttes, we were perfectly resigned to our fate, and 
 took our disappointment in good part. 
 
 Our camping ground was on the site where now stands 
 the Buttes Mill, and when we awoke in the morning, 
 and looked about to examine the location, we were 
 agreeably surprised to discover that we had been sleep- 
 ing on a particularly rich spot. The place was a small 
 Flat at the mouth of a small ravine, and all around we 
 found large pieces of quartz mixed with gold, which 
 appeared in considerable quantities. As soon as we had 
 ascertained our good luck, I got out pencil and paper to 
 write out a notice, when I was stayed by Henry Cosair, 
 who drew my attention to the fact that a number of men 
 were making their way down the ravine. Sure enough,, 
 
 I 
 
 % 
 
 [ 
 
 1 
 
 > 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 125 
 
 there was a party of miners, headed by a man named 
 Leonard. As usual, they had followed the "Major's" 
 track, trusting that they might share in some of the 
 proverbial good fortune which was supposed to always 
 attend him. We then decided to withdraw for the 
 time-being, and moved our camp higher up the ravine. 
 
 Our stratagem however, proved in vain. We took it 
 easy, and the men settled down to play at bean poker, 
 but the other company took possession of our rich find. 
 They picked up the gold that we had found, and, to make 
 a long story short, although we were the first white men 
 to ascend tlie Sierra Buttes, we did not get anything 
 for our trouble. The news of the discovery traveled 
 quickly abroad, and for days kept the miners on the 
 neighboring fields in a fever of excitement, but person- 
 ally I did not get one single lump of all this gold. 
 
 I was not disheartened, but somewhat disgusted. I 
 turned my steps down the South Fork, and set about 
 putting in a flume in the river above Kanaka Flat, I 
 paid ten dollars a day for whip-sawyers to cut my lumber. 
 When the fliume was finished, it had cost me ten thou- 
 sand dollars. But worst of all — the current of the river 
 had washed away all the gold, and I got nothing for my 
 trouble but a poor experience. The experiment had 
 proved a hard-cash failure, and I returned to Poorman's 
 Creek. 
 
 It will be remembered that I had instructed my 
 partner to establish a store here. He had accordingly 
 gone down below, bought what he thought would be a 
 good speculation, and on his return opened an establish- 
 ment which did not at all suit my taste. There was 
 plenty of whisky, brandy and champagne, and in front 
 of the store a round tent, where the monte cards were 
 being dealt, while several young fellows of the "Fancy 
 
12G 
 
 HUNTING KOK COLD 
 
 H ■H 
 
 i ') ' ■HI 
 : ! 
 
 Class" ap])eared in the crowd — so-called "dead beats," 
 whose only duty was to keep the game ijoing. Provis- 
 ions were scarce on the Creek, notwithstandiiiijf the 
 demand for them, and somebody kept packin*^ whisky 
 kei^s down the hill to the miners below, until they 
 swore that the next keg that arrived, before Hour was 
 brought down, would be knocked to pieces, and the con- 
 tents allowed to run to waste. I now went back to my 
 claim, but to my great suq)rise, my ])artner had sold it 
 to a stranger for one ounce. I did not feel inclined to 
 dis})ute the possession of it, and so left him alone, but I 
 learned afterwards that he had taken $80,000 out of it, 
 and meanwhile, I had swum the cold rivers, slept in the 
 snow, been within finger-touch of an enormous fortune, 
 and missed it — sunk $10,000 cash in a futile effort to 
 find gold in a river bed, and here I stood, minus a claim 
 that was yielding me as much as $1,500 per day when 
 I left it, and all I had received in return, was a succes- 
 sion of brilliant hopes wliicli had exploded like sky-rock- 
 ets in the night, leaving no ^race of their radiant paths. 
 I began to think that I would try the Yuba once more, 
 and went back to Downieville, hoping for better luck 
 next time. 
 
 It is astonishing how implicitly all kinds of stories of 
 big strikes were believed. My own case was by no 
 means a singular one, as everyone seemed ready to give 
 up what he had, however good it might be, should he 
 happen to hear even the vaguest rumor of something 
 better. I remember an instance where a few irreenhorns 
 set the whole town in a fever of excitement through 
 their own ignorance of what they were doing. They 
 were camping on the river bank, about one mile away, 
 and as they stayed there for sometime, it was concluded, 
 by the know^ing ones, that they were making it. A fel- 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 127 
 
 low called Steve, made u\) his mind to find out, and one 
 day, when some of them were in town for provisions, he 
 approached them and began quizzing them. He was 
 told in reply that they had found what they called "a 
 riijjht smart chance of ijfold." 
 
 ''How much does it prospect ?" inquired Steve, 
 
 "Sometimes more, and sometimes less;" said the man 
 questioned, evasively. 
 
 "But on an average — ?" Sujj^ijested Steve, determined 
 to learn something. 
 
 "Well, never less than eight or ten bits to the pan," 
 said the other. 
 
 Steve was delighted. He made straight forhiscanq) 
 and comm'inicated the fact to his companions. It was 
 decided to keep the mattoi dark until they had located 
 their own claims, and that night, under cover of darkness, 
 the company and about a dozen friends, stole out of 
 camp, and the next morning the sun rose upon a number 
 of miners who had put up their tents on new claims, and 
 were busily engaged staking them oft' according to min- 
 ing regulations. After breakfast, the pick and pan were 
 brought into requisition, and the men examined the bank 
 up and down the creek, but none could find more than 
 just a few specks. Steve was deputed to interview the 
 discoverer of the supposed gold, and ask him for further 
 directions. He was told that there was plenty of gold 
 "rit'-ht down there". Steve asked him to be kind enouofh 
 to go down and wash a pan or two, and the man readily 
 complied. The stranger set to work, dug a pan of dirt, 
 washed it down pretty close, and began turning it round 
 and round, so that a little black sand could be seen. 
 
 Then he began counting: "One, two, three, four, five, 
 six, seven, eight, nine I Yes there are nine bits in that 
 pan." 
 
fll 
 
 128 
 
 HUNTiNd I'oK c;oi.n 
 
 «r 
 
 Where ?" asked Stove, tliiiikiM«4' for a moment that 
 he liad suddenly l)e('oi»«e eolor-Mind. 
 
 "Tliere!" l^^jaculate«i tlie otlier, impatiently, "can't 
 you see ?" And he pointed to a few specks in the sand. 
 
 Steve straij^htened himself uj), turned his hiick upon 
 the stranger, and rnn hack to his mates. He could 
 hadly speak for laughter, and besides, lie stammered 
 considerably; but when lie liad com[)osed himself a lit- 
 tle, he burst out; "The da-da-danincd greeidiorns call a 
 sp-sp-speck a bit, and t-t-ten sp-s])-specks, the}' call 
 t-t-ten b-b-bits. And this was the end of the mininfj on 
 Greenhorn Creek, where the gold ran ten bits to the 
 pan. 
 
 Towards spring our company began work in Secret 
 Canyon, just below Jim Crow Canyon, We were doing 
 well, and fillino our sacks, but one ni<j^htone of the i)artv 
 got up and left with all our gold. He made for Canada, 
 where he staved for a while, but afterwards liad the 
 audacity to come back to Downieville. Here he met 
 with a reception somewhat cooler than he had anticipated, 
 and left for Australia, where he is reported to have 
 made a large fortune; but on his return with it to 
 America the ship foundered and he was never heard of 
 after. 
 
 I next tried \\\\ luck below Goodvear's Bar, and lo- 
 cated on Kantedodler Bar, where I found o^ood diiXU'inufs, 
 and put up a cabin. Somehow I always got tlie hardest 
 drinking men in my company, and often had considerable 
 trouble on that account. I have seen two of my men 
 meeting in the cal)in door, each carrymg a pail of whisky. 
 
 "Where were you ?" Asked the one. 
 
 "Down for the bitters," said the other; and they 
 would call their mates and drink the contents as an 
 appetizer before breakfast. It got to be so bad, that 
 

 ' ym,\ 
 
 I 
 
^^^ 
 
 \ 
 
 130 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 
 m 
 
 hi 
 
 when a iiuui was fouiiil Iviinjc dead-drunk, with the sun 
 beating down upon Iiim, and a bottle sticking out of his 
 pocket, people would say. "Oh he is all riglit; he knows 
 how to take care of hiniself; he belongs to the Major's 
 crowd," and whether he really did or not, nmde no ditler- 
 ence, he got the credit anyhow. I had two married 
 men with me here, whose drinking propensities .severely 
 tried my patience. Several times I determined to dis- 
 charge them, but they always found some excuse. Thoy 
 would generally begin to cry, and between their tears 
 and draughts of whisky, tell me that they had just had 
 letters from home. 
 
 "The wife has just had a baby," one would say, and 
 the other would follow with a story al)out "The old 
 woman wantinijf him to come home, but he liad not 
 made enough to go." Indeed, it was hard to see how 
 some of those fellows could ever expect to make enough, 
 at the rate they threw their gold away for whisky. 
 One of these fell head foremost down a shaft thirty feet 
 deep. The other, who had seen him go up to the shaft 
 and suddenly missed him, went down to the mouth of it 
 and called out : "Are you down there, Scotty ?" 
 
 "Aye aye I" cried Scotty, "Send dowm the rope 
 Charlie." The man was not injured at all, save for a 
 shaking, which a draught of whisky soon made him for- 
 get. 
 
 One of this drunken crowd got into a scrape with a 
 Dutchman, and nothing would do to vindicate honor, 
 but to fight a duel with pistols. So he went down to 
 Goodyear's Bar to buy paper and ink, intending to ask 
 me to write out a challenge. On the way home, in 
 some manner the cork came out of the bottle, and the 
 black fluid got all over his hands and face. His appear- 
 ance in camp created much amusement, and he looked 
 
 
 
mTNTINO FOR OOM) 
 
 VM 
 
 like a monkey (.'oiniiiuf out of a tar barrel. Nothing 
 more was heard of his intentions to Hijjlit a tluel, and lie 
 was kept husy for several days, trying to scour the 
 black patches otf his face. 
 
 The water in the river rose and we had to leave ofl' 
 working for a while. Dust bc^came scarce and some of 
 the V)oys involuntarily sobered up. There was a Mr. 
 Briggs, who kept a store at Goodyear's IW, and also 
 owned a claim adjoining mine at Kantododler. One day 
 some of my men, hanging round his place without a cent 
 in their pockets, contrived a scheme for getting free 
 drinks, which shows, both the knowledge they possessed 
 of human nature, and also the spirit of the age. Seated 
 in the bar-room they began to talk of the "Major's latest 
 strike," 
 
 "And sure," says one, "that is pretty nice gold right 
 asfainst Mr. Brigij^'s claim " 
 
 "Yes," joined in another, "The Major says he is going 
 to lose the best of it; it is all in Mr. Briggs' claim." 
 
 "What's that," inquired the store-keeper, pricking up 
 his ears. 
 
 Then followed an account of a wonderful discovery of 
 a rich lead that lost itself into Mr. Brisrsfs' claim, and all 
 the Major had said about it. 
 
 "And did the Major really say so ?" shouted the 
 delighted storekeeper. 
 
 "Sure !" 
 
 "Come up boys and have a drink," called the man who 
 now saw thousands of bright dollars shininjj in his 
 imagination. 
 
 "Oh no thank you," said one of the crowd modestly, 
 "We left the dust in the camp." 
 
 "Dust or no dust ! What matter? Money is no object, 
 come up boys, can Downie's men no longer drink ?" 
 
 i 
 
 H 
 
182 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 That settled it. Determined not to lose their repu- 
 tation, they sailed in and never let go till the store-keep- 
 er had filled them up to their utmost capacity. But 
 what did he care ? He saw before him a large fortune 
 in his splendid claim. He lived for the hour in the 
 sunshine of brilliant hopes, as so many of us have done 
 both before and since, and after all a man generally 
 enjoys himself as well if not better, while looking into 
 the >uture with hopeful eyes, than he does when the 
 reality is reached, which is too often attended by bitter 
 disappointments. 
 
 i i 
 

 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 A Severe Winter — Alexander McDonald — Close to a Fortune — A 
 Lawsuit — Organizing a Mining District — Sluicing and Tun- 
 neling — The Summer of '58 — Reports From the Fraser — A 
 Wind-up — Now and Then — Quoting a Forty-niner. 
 
 I should, indeed, weary my reader, were I to contin- 
 ue my every-day experience as time passed, u ig my 
 stay in the California mines, and will, there foiv, bring 
 this portion of my account to a close, briefly passing 
 over the remainder of the time before I left for other 
 fields. 
 
 The winter of '51-52 was an unusually severe one, and 
 I and my companions suffered a good deal of hardship. 
 It was during this period that I met Alexander McDon- 
 ald, and a very warm friendship sprang up between us, 
 which lasted for many years. We became mates, both 
 on the California gold-fields, and later on in British 
 Columbia ; and I shall have more to say in a future 
 chapter, of the tragic fate which befell this man, who 
 was, indeed, one of the best of friends, and one of the 
 most generous of men. Towards the close of the winter, 
 McDonald and I went to Indian Creek, where we met 
 with unexpected success, and notwithstanding the sever- 
 ity of the season took out a large quantity of gold. From 
 this place I afterward moved to Grizzly Hill, but had 
 no luck there, and determined again to turn my attention 
 to sluicing, for which purp e I went to Indian Hill, 
 
 I stayed at Indian Hill for quite a while and took out 
 some gold. Later on I removed to Ramshorn Creek near 
 St. Joe Bar. Never were prospects brighter and my 
 
 133 
 
 a 
 
 m 
 
M 
 
 
 
 • i T. ( i 
 
 flf^- 
 
 |i t 
 
 134 
 
 HUNTING FOK GOLD 
 
 l'4il 
 
 heart was full of hope, but I was doomed to suflfer the 
 humiliation of succumbiiii*; in a contest where the most 
 money carried the greatest weight. 
 
 Right ahead of me on the creek was a comi)any, known 
 as the St. Louis Boy. They were rich and influential, 
 and had come there with the fixed purpose of increasing 
 their fortune, even if they had to go to some expense. 
 It did not take them lono- to find out that the locality 
 was ci first-class one, but, unfortunately for me, they 
 wanted all within reach, and I became a thorn in their 
 side. At first they attempted to persuade me to give 
 up my claim, but I was fully aware of the great chances 
 I had in this place, and would not be bluffed. Then 
 they cast about for some tangible reason to bring a law- 
 suit, and indeed succeded in finding a pretext, to my 
 great surprise. I saw at once, that it was a matter of 
 feeding the lawyers, and realized that I could not com- 
 pete with my opponents. For a while I held out, but 
 found it wiser to yield and withdraw rather than spend 
 my money in vain. But in letting go my claim, I gave 
 up one of the best chances I ever had of making a for- 
 tune. 
 
 I then tried Clark's Canyon, where I struck it rich, 
 but for want of water I did not succeed in makino- a 
 raise, and went into Plumas County, prospecting. On 
 my return to my old location I found that my claim had 
 gone. Mr. G. Hughes had been working higher up in 
 the canyon and had met with some success, taking away 
 several bags of gold. 
 
 I next went to Slate Creek House, with Dr. Jump, 
 for the purpose of making laws and organizing a new 
 mining district. We also formed a company which 
 undertook to run a tunnel on the west branch of Can- 
 yon Creek, and for sometime we pushed ahead with 
 
 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 this work, but ultimately gave it up, and I formed 
 another company, which drove a tunnel in the F'ir Cap 
 ridge, known as the Alma tunnel. Here wo spent 
 twenty-two months in a very rough country. Our only 
 shelter was a "dug out" in the mountain side, and any 
 stranger, wishing to find it, had no other land-mark to 
 go by than the smoke coming out of the flue. 
 
 After sinking $14,000 in a vain attempt to find any- 
 thing worth working, we gave up the Alma, and I 
 bought into the Keystone Tunnel Company, and after- 
 wards mined below Forest City, but with no success. 
 
 I next tried in succession. Poorman's Creek, South, 
 Scotchman Creek and Washington, where I bought a 
 shaio from Charlie Stymer in the Hagler Tunnel on 
 Brandy Flat. There was plenty of hard work here, 
 with but small returns, and then the reports of the 
 Fraser River excitement reached the mining camps of 
 California. 
 
 I have now briefly taken my reader as far as the 
 Spring of '58, the year when the great exodus to 
 British Columbia was inaugurated. California miners 
 were ready to listen to the call that came from these 
 northern fields. Ever reckless; ever on the move for 
 some better chance, they would at all times have fol- 
 lowed promptings which bade them go in search of 
 possible treasures, but on this occasion they went partly 
 for other reasons. The fact of the matter was, that 
 gold-seeking on the old lines was gradually decreasing. 
 When the stream of adventurers first flooded California, 
 after Marshall's discovery had been proclaimed, gold 
 was readily found. My reader will remember how often 
 I have mentioned it as lying on the very surface of the 
 earth, over which we traveled. It is true that such 
 accounts as were spread in regard to the Gold Lake and 
 
 
 |: (I :Jl 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 137 
 
 
 other places, were mere fables, but it is nevertheless a 
 fact that in many localities the gold was found, as if it 
 had been strewn over the soil like so much grain. Not 
 only was it found on the very surface, but also in the 
 crevices of the mountain side. In all these places it was 
 easily gathered. The bare hand, a pick and a pan, o-r a 
 blunt knife, would secure all there was, with no expense 
 to the finder, and the fortune-seeker might arrive on the 
 gold-fields as poor as the ])roverbial church mouse, and 
 leave — a second Croesus, 
 
 But there were many thousands of these fortune-hunt- 
 ers, and the persistency with which they carried on 
 their search, caused a rapid decrease in the surface gold. 
 A few years had considerably altered the aspect of Cali- 
 fornia mining. When the precious metal disappeared 
 from view, the gold-hunter had to unearth it somehow. 
 It was, as yet, to be found in the mountains and in the 
 river beds, and tunneling and sluicing were inaugurated 
 as the next modes of operation. But these undertak- 
 ings cost money. The man who, a few years before, 
 could start in poor and go home as a peer, was not "in 
 it" any longer as his own master. If he wished to turn 
 miner, he must go to work for the man who had the 
 money. But it was the independence and the absolute 
 equality in the world of chance, which Dame Fortune 
 bestows upon all her worshipers, that had been the chief 
 attraction of mining life, and had given to it its chief 
 characteristics, and when this equality and indepen- 
 dence disappeared, the inspiration of mining life became 
 extinct. 
 
 For the purpose of gradually surviving the change 
 which was creeping upon them, many of the most cour- 
 ageous miners ran heavily into debt. Many of them 
 had worked hard with but little success in irainincj the 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 expected fortunes. When it became apparent that the 
 gold must be souglit for in tlie rivers and rocks, they 
 borrowed money, generally from the store-keepers, to 
 whose enormous revenues they had for years contribu- 
 ted, and sunk the capital in mining engineering, which 
 unfortunately, often in addition to poverty, heaped 
 upon them the burden of debt. Oftentimes the river 
 bed did not reveal any treasures, and the dark, cold tun- 
 nels did not lead to any mines, while the debt increased, 
 and the creditors became troublesome. This kind of 
 mining was vastly different from the old style, and 
 required an amount of perseverence and tenacity, which 
 but few possessed, but it must be said, injustice to the 
 California miner of those days, that a braver, pluckier 
 class of men never ensxatxcd in the hazards of mininsr. 
 
 By degrees, machinery was brought into the fields; 
 and the expense still further increased, and where for- 
 merly individual lines opened the possibility for an enor- 
 mous fortune, now-a-days syndicates, corporations, com- 
 panies, operate on a scale which makes mining a ques- 
 tion of capital, from start to finish. 
 
 Such were the conditions in '58, when the news of 
 the Fraser River excitement reached California, and 
 found its way to the mining camps in the mountain 
 regions. Everything was ripe for a change. Some 
 anxious to get away from the cold, damp tunnels ; oth- 
 ers from the inqjortunities of creditors whose demands 
 they could not meet ; and many sighed for the relief 
 that independence would bring them once more. As to 
 myself, I was pleased with the prospect of a change. I 
 was heartily sick of boring into the bleak, hard moun- 
 tains, which seemed to swallow up all the capital we 
 could rake and scrape together, without yielding us any 
 return. 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 Just at that time a favorable opportunity presented 
 itself to me to sell out, and I eagerly took .advantage of it. 
 I then made for San Francisco, for the purpose of ship- 
 ping for British Columbia, and I was not surprised at 
 finding the city of the bay filled with miners, who had 
 fiocked from the diggings in all parts of California, 
 anxious to try their luck on the far-away river, of which 
 run)or had painted such glowing pictures. 
 
 I cannot sum up this portion of my account any better 
 than by quoting here a short article, published in the 
 year 1877, in a Sierra paper, by an old miner, who, tak- 
 ing a retrospective glance, writes as follows: 
 
 "Twenty-nine years seeking for gold! But how changed 
 are the same class of miners in twenty-nine years. 
 Then all was bright and rosy to him; no matter what ob- 
 stacles he met with, he would face them, and if defeated, 
 try again. If a tunnel had to be run in hard bedrock, and 
 numbers of them may be found in the highest ranges, 
 from two hundred to two thousand feet long, abandoned 
 years ago, without a sign of gold or even gravel in the 
 prospective; yet after expending thousands of dollars, 
 they gave them up, but to try again. If they fiumed 
 the river, and every timber and board were carried away 
 by the mountain floods, still he would go into the next 
 operation with the same hope and energy, possibly to be 
 wrecked once more; but what matters ? Somebody 
 was taking out big piles, and his turn would come by- 
 and-by. And thus he worked and hoped until time he- 
 gan to lay his fingers on him, and "Silver threads 
 amongst the gold," began to show themselves, yet the 
 prize seemed to be in the near future. Had he not 
 spent the best years of his life searching from the river 
 beds to the mountain's crown for the big strike that was 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 Ul 
 
 
 to make him happy the rest of his days, and realize his 
 brightest dreams. 
 
 Disappointments liav^e often clianged his whole nature, 
 but he cannot see it ; he has lontj ago ceased to write to 
 friends and relatives ; no doubt they think he is dead, 
 and generally it is his wish that they think so. His 
 plea is, he has no good news to send, and he has not tlie 
 heart to write discouraicini; letters now, whea life seems 
 to him a blank and a failure. His energy has about 
 died out ; he is content to work in the primitive way of 
 mining, living from hand to mouth, still hoping, as it 
 were, against fate. His house, now a rough cabin, he 
 can call his own, and it generally contains all his world- 
 ly possessions. He has the walls of his cabin papered 
 with cuts from illustrated newspapers, one bunk, a sack 
 of Hour, some few other provisions, a cat or two, often a 
 small garden patch, a few drooping chickens, the inevit- 
 able smoking pipe and the home-made arm-chair. Soli- 
 tude has soured his temper, and made him morose in 
 the society of his fellow men, and often he shuns that of 
 the opposite sex. Of course there are exceptions, and 
 one will occasionally come across the countenance of 
 some of the early miners, whose face may show the lines 
 that time has made, but whose laugh rings as merry as 
 ever, and whose heart is ever fresh. But they are 
 silent and reserved at first, and will ever remain so. 
 You will find them in their solitary claims, from the 
 foot-hills to the highest Sierras. Talk with them of 
 early times; then you break through their reserve, the 
 eye will sparkle and the countenance light up, as they 
 tell of rich bars, benches and river claims that they have 
 worked or known of. How such and such a company 
 went home with piles of gold, and where the largest 
 chunks were found; they 
 
 can 
 
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142 
 
 HUNTINCJ FOR GOLD 
 
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 Leud crosses on every range; where it enters and wliere 
 it breaks out; and yet, you will mostly find tlieni the 
 worst dead-broke class in the mine, and they — well, they 
 had had luck; this and that was a failure — nothing 
 seemed to prosper with theai; the very elements were 
 against them. They made quite a stake in such a place, 
 and sank it in prospecting another. But while some miners 
 were taking out gold on river bars and benches, others 
 were depositing it into bars of another, and to them less 
 profitable kind, thus anclioring themselves down for a 
 lifetime. A few more years and the old '49, '50-1-2 men, 
 will belong to the history of the past, and they may 
 treasure up the sentiment of Moore, the Irish poet: 
 
 "When I remember all the friends linked together, 
 
 I've seen around me fall, like leaves in wintry weather; 
 
 I feel like one who treads alone, 
 
 Some banquet hall, deserted, 
 
 Whose lights are fled, 
 
 Whose garlands dead. 
 
 And all but he departed." 
 
 "Soon the claims, the traps they contain, together 
 with the owners, will be swept away by the ruthless hand 
 of time, and the gold seekers, who almost opened a new 
 world, will sleep the sleep that knows no waking." 
 
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LYNCHING A BEAUTY. 
 
 It was the F'ourth of July, 1851. The little town of 
 Downieville was haskin*^ in the hot rays of the California 
 niidsuninier sun; the atmosphere was oppressive, and 
 the only feature in the landscape that brouufht any re- 
 lief to the inhabitants of the beautiful valley of the Forks 
 was the rippling of the waters of the river, as they met 
 on their way from the cool Sierras. 
 
 The national holiday had risen for the second time on 
 the little settlement, to witness a great change, brought 
 about by the march of time. The community had become 
 more settled in regard to general organization, and Cali- 
 fornia had beconc a state of the Union. But for many 
 years, even after that important event, the soc.^i con- 
 ditions in these parts partook of the characteristics of 
 border life. The population had increased, and there 
 were signs that many had come there to stay, but the 
 place was isolated, far from the center of law, order and 
 protection, and so the people took the law into their 
 own hands, when occcasion demanded it. 
 
 On the Fourth of July, one year ago, a man had been 
 flo«>i>'ed for woundino- another with a knife. The offence, 
 trial and punishment had followed in quick succession, 
 and the result had been that for many months after the 
 occurrence all such lawlessness and violence had been in 
 check. It was therefore no wonder thai the incident 
 had impressed itself upon the community as a precedent 
 worthy of note. It was not a spirit of revenge nor a 
 craving for extreme punishment that prompted the com- 
 
 145 
 
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 140 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 munity to adopt rigid measures on all occasions, it was 
 simply a desire to enforce order and subdue any attempt 
 to violence, as the only means of protection in a coni- 
 nmnity, where so many different elements had come to- 
 ijfether. 
 
 One year ago most of tlie habitations were merely 
 canvas tents, a few cabins forming the exception. Now- 
 the latter had considerably multiplied, and in addition, a 
 few adobe houses had been built. These latter were in- 
 troduced by the Mexican element, which soon appeared 
 upon the California gold field in all their different shades 
 and mixtures of blood, by which they are known. 
 
 In one of these adobe houses lived a Mexican, whose 
 name has long been forgotten, and who would personally 
 never have been known save for his partner in the clay 
 hut, a woman, known as Juanita. Whether she was his 
 wife or not makes no difference in this story. She had 
 come there with him, and with him she had shared the 
 hardships of life in a mining camp. She cooked his meals, 
 mended his clothes, and otherwise added to his comforts, 
 when he had an opportunity to indulge in any, the rough 
 and ready life in the mountains only rarely allowing such 
 luxuries. But the most striking feature about Juanita 
 was her personality. She was of the Spanish-Mexican 
 mixture, and the blood of her fathers flowed fast and 
 warmly in her veins. She was proud, and self-possessed, 
 and her bearing was graceful, almost majestic. 
 
 She was in the miners parlance "well put up." Her 
 figure was richly developed and in strict proportions; her 
 features delicate, and her olive complexion lent them a 
 pleasing softness. Her black hair was neatly done upon 
 state occasions, and the lustre in her eyes shone in various 
 degrees, from the soft dove-like expression of a love-sick 
 maiden, to the fierce scowl of an infuriated lioness, accord- 
 
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HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 147 
 
 ing to her temper, which was the only thing not well 
 balanced about her. Add to this, that when dressed up, 
 Juanita wore the picturesque costume of her native soil, 
 in which rich laces and bright colors blended harmon- 
 iously, and it may be well understood that this woman 
 was known all throucjh the settlement. 
 
 On this Fourth of July, of which I am about to speak, 
 the usual celebration took place throughout the mining 
 camps on the Yuba. The pick and pan lay idle, and the 
 miners drank as usual on such occasions, until the air 
 seemed hazy around them and numbers were hard to 
 define. The row went on all day and far into the night, 
 and it was towards midnio^ht when the last stracjcrlers 
 made for home to take a few hours' sleep before the 
 rising sun should call them to labor again. 
 
 Amonof those returnint; at that late hour was a man 
 named Cannon, who with a couple of companions had left 
 the dram shop to go back to camp. They were all more 
 or less under the influence of liquor, but Cannon was the 
 worst. He staggered along, every now and then stumbling 
 over protruding rocks, or knocking against the side of a 
 cabin, and just as he came in front of the house in which 
 the Mexican and the handsome woman lived, he ao-ain 
 stumbled, and before his friends could stay him, had 
 rolled throutrh the rickety door of the adobe hut, into 
 the room. It was perfectly dark, and as one of his 
 companions, who struck a light on the outside, perceived 
 what had become of his friend, he went in and raised him 
 from the ground. 
 
 "Come out I" he said, "there is a woman in this house: 
 Come along man!" 
 
 Cannon rose to his feet, and in doing so brought with 
 him a silk handkerchief, which he had picked up on the 
 floor, but he was persuaded to throw it back by^ his 
 
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 148 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 companions, who hustled hiui out of the room, fixed the 
 door as well as possible, and made for home. During 
 the whole of the proceedings not a word had been spoken 
 by the inmates, and it was supposed that they had either 
 slept through it all, or that fear had silenced them. 
 
 It was late the following morninij^ when Cannon 
 awoke after a heavy sleep. He had almost forgotten 
 the incident of the previous evening, and when some of 
 his friends, in the course of conversation, related to him 
 the occurrence in which ho had taken such a prominent 
 part, he felt much concerned at having occasioned the 
 scene described to him, and at once resolved to oft'er a 
 personal apology. Cannon could speak Spanish, and 
 accompanied by one of his friends who had been with 
 him on the previous evening, he wont down to the adobe 
 hut. The man came to the open door, and the two 
 engaged in a conversation in Spanish, of which his com- 
 panion could not understand nmch, but it seemed to him 
 that the Mexican exhibited a ij^ood deal of anijjer. Pres- 
 ently Juanita appeared by his side, and the words grew 
 louder and more excited. Seemingly Cannon was 
 attempting to smooth matters over, and to pacify the 
 two. The woman appeared more excited, even, than 
 her male companion, and Cannon evidently increased his 
 exertions to arrange matters satisfactorily, opeaking in 
 a conciliatory tone ; but his words, whatever they were, 
 proved of no avail, the woman giving vent to the most 
 violent outburst of anger. 
 
 Suddenly she drew from the folds of her dress a knife, 
 and quick as lightning buried the blade to the hilt in the 
 body of Cannon. It was the work of a moment, and her 
 victim fell, with one last groan, at the feet of the beauti- 
 ful woman, who threw the knife, dripping with blood, 
 
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HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 149 
 
 I 
 
 on the ground, and withdrew with the Mexican, into the 
 house. 
 
 For a moment Cannon's companion stood as if petri- 
 fied. He had come for the purpose of witnessing a rec- 
 onciUation, and instead of that, a hideous nmrder had 
 been committed in his presence. The warm sunshine 
 fell upon the prostrate body of his friend, whose blood 
 was oozing out upon the sand, and it seemed, for one 
 moment, as if everything danced before the gaze of the 
 bewildered miner. Then, suddenly realizing the situa- 
 tion, he turned away and made for the nearest (;amp 
 to tell what had happened. 
 
 A short time sufficed to spread the report through the 
 camps and claims. It seemed as if the very air had 
 breathed the word ''nmrder," and soon the adobe house 
 was surrounded by a mob of infuriated men. But, 
 somehow, during that brief interval, Juanita had found 
 time to dress herself fit for a reception. Clad in her 
 picturesque costume — the very best she had — with her 
 luxuriant hair artistically braided; adorned with rings 
 and armlets and spangles of precious metals; and above 
 all, with her own personal loveliness, she met the men 
 who cried for vengeance, at the door, calm, deliberate, 
 beautiful. Under any other circumstances, no man 
 could have resisted her exceeding beauty. The fierce- 
 ness of anger had melted from her eyes ; there was 
 nothing left but an expression of perfect resignation and 
 that haughty pride which was natural to her. 
 
 But the miners' law was "Life for Life." She was 
 at once seized with her companion, and the two were at 
 once tried by a self-established court. One man only, 
 had the courage to take Juanita's part, a Mr. Thayer. 
 He pleaded for the woman and denounced the mode of 
 
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 150 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 
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 procedure in dealin*»; witli her, but he was quickly silenced 
 by threats of violence, and even death. 
 
 "Hanof the sxreaser devilsl" 
 
 "Give them a trial!" 
 
 "No; hang them now!" 
 
 "Give them a trial first and then hanof them!" 
 
 Such were the shouts that filled the air, but the last 
 sui^gestion of compromise was accepted, and the trial 
 began, then and there. Cannon's friend testified that 
 there had been no intent to insult the woman, or in any 
 way annoy her, and that the whole affair had been 
 perfectly accidental, and was merely the outcome of a 
 drunken spree. He proved the regret the deceased had 
 felt upon learning of the accident, as demonstrated by his 
 immediate step to make reparition. 
 
 The Mexican was found innocent and at once acquitted 
 and the unfortunate woman put up as her defense tliat 
 there was an intention of orross insult, when Cannon 
 broke into her house and that he used offensive lanouaixe 
 to her when he returned to the house, and that in the 
 heat of passion she had committed an act for which, 
 under the circumstances, she was not wholly responsible. 
 But the jury was not to be convinced of innocence on 
 her part. When the case closed, they found her guilty 
 of nmrder in the first degree, and she was sentenced to 
 death. Never were the terrible words of such a sen- 
 tence pronounced on anyone more composed than Juanita. 
 She was apparently perfectly unmoved, her cheeks neither 
 flushed nor turned p-illid, and she seemed quite satisfied 
 to abide bv the verdict. 
 
 Where now the suspension bridge crosses the river, 
 an improvised scafi'old was hastily erected, and thither 
 Juanita was conducted, accompanied by a howling l)l()od- 
 thirsty mob, that cried for vengeance. She never broke 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 down ; nor even Hinched. "Big" Logan's services had 
 been called into requisition — it took a man like him to 
 hang a woman — but Juanita was of a different mind. It 
 was getting towards evening, and sunshine fell upon the 
 landscape; the Yuba ran its rushing course as usual; a 
 little bird whistled in the woods ; otherwise there 
 was no sound save the humming of insects and the 
 soughing of the breeze. But on every claim the miners' 
 tools lay idle, and the men had gone to feast upon the 
 spectacle, the horrors of which they expected to surpass 
 their own imaginations. 
 
 But Juanita seemed to be in perfect harmony with 
 the surroundinoj; nature. Calm and dignified she mount- 
 ed the scaffold. Her hands were unbound, her loose, 
 picturesque garments floating in the summer breeze, and 
 her beautiful face looked into those of the vicious throng 
 that surged around her. Then she spoke. Without a 
 tremor, her soft, melodious voice told the story of the 
 unfortunate incident that had brought her there, in the 
 light she viewed it. She declared that if she should 
 live to be again provoked in the same manner, she would 
 repeat her act, and when she had finished she turned to 
 "Big Logan" and took from his hands the fatal rope. 
 
 There was a death-like silence in the crowd, every- 
 body wondering what she was about to do. Logan 
 seemed involuntarily to surrender the rope he was sup- 
 posed to place around her neck, and with her own soft 
 hands she placed the noose in position. 
 
 "Adios SenorsT she said with a graceful wave of her 
 hand, and ere the astonished spectators could realize 
 what had happened, she had leaped from the scaffold 
 into eternity. The sun set in Downieville. The men, 
 careless of circumstances, assembled in the grog-stores, 
 and spoke of the heroic woman, drank, and then drift- 
 
I 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD jjg 
 
 ed into mining talk. But there was a blot on the fair 
 
 r: '.V"'u, '"'''''' '" *""'' y-- *° --h out- 
 c! if *r ""'' ^'^'^ ^*'''"^'* *he early history o 
 
 Cahfornia, and especially of the mining camps IZ 
 
 men a, d women grew „p who were born a'nd raiLd h 
 dunng the crude age of the early days. 
 
 Ihen the dross and the gold became separated ; then 
 ntemgence mdustry and ingenuity were allowed ful 
 
 aSiet If T- Tr'" ^""'^™*'™' ^"*^' '"^^ ^^^rfing 
 
 Ca if! I Tu ^T ' '"' ""'' '^' P^^t' -"d raised 
 Cahforma to the level of Christian civilization 
 
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 THE BLOODY CODE. 
 
 Durinor the year 1855 tliore came to the State of Cali- 
 fornia a lady by the name of Miss Sarah Pellet, She 
 was young, handsome, possessed of more than ordinary 
 intelligence, and of a kindly disposition, which caused 
 her to be loved by all who came in personal contact with 
 her. 
 
 Miss Pellet had a mission to fulfill. She was a tem- 
 perance lecturer and belonged to the same school of lady- 
 reformers as did Lucy Stone Blackwell, Antoinette 
 Brown and others of their contemporaries. In this con- 
 nection the name of Sarah Pellet still lives. Whatever 
 may be the individual opinion of the temperance reform 
 movement, there can be no doubt that those who have 
 engaged in it with honesty of purpose, have done much 
 to advance the social condition of men at certain periods 
 and under certain conditions. If this important question 
 were held aloof from church and politics alike, it would, 
 no doubt, as a purely social proposition, attract more 
 attention, and awaken more sympathy, than it does under 
 circumstances where it appears to act as a cloak, hiding 
 either ecclesiastical propaganda or political schemes. It 
 is this latter fact which has always contributed to the 
 sense of suspicion with whi^h the apostles have been 
 viewed, and when Miss Pellet began her crusade in Cali- 
 fornia, she was made the target for many scurrilous re- 
 marks from a large portion of the press, which mercilessly 
 attacked her, imputing to her motives which, indeed, 
 were far from her pure and generous mind. 
 
 IM 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 155 
 
 At that time Calvin B, McDonald was conducting the 
 "Sierra Citizen" at Downieville,and he took it upon him- 
 self to champion the fair lecturer through her diflficul- 
 ties with the opposing press. Mr. McDonald is now 
 well known as a writer of force and brilliancy, and he 
 was then laying the foundation for the fame which in 
 after years made his name famihar to most newspaper 
 readers in California. His articles not lorn? remained 
 unread by Miss Pellet, and she determined to pay 
 Downieville a visit and take advantage of the friendship 
 proffered her through the "Sierra Citizen." 
 
 The advent of Miss Pellet in the little mining; town 
 was fraught with remarkable results. The reader, who 
 has followed me through the preceding pages, is aware 
 that there was a vast field for labor in the cause of tem- 
 perance, and certainly some need of a reform of this 
 kind. The young lecturer lost no time in going to 
 work, and, aided by her editor friend, soon succeeded in 
 establishino- a laryfe and flourishing; division of the Sons 
 of Temperance. Nearly all the reputable young men 
 joined the movement. As is often the case, people went 
 from one extreme to the other, and for some time total 
 abstinence was looked upon as the only correct thing 
 in the very place where, shortly before, the man who 
 could not drink with the rest, had been considered a 
 crank or a suspicious character. The Fourth of July 
 was drawing near, and a temperance demonstration was 
 projected and a couimittee set to work to arrange tlie 
 programme. 
 
 It seems strano-e that the most thrillinsjf incidents 
 that took place in the early days of Downieville, should, 
 in some way, be connected with a Fourth of July cele- 
 bration. I have already had occasion to mention two, 
 in which drinking bouts were followed by sanguinary 
 
15(5 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 m 
 
 11 
 
 results, but it seeins still more curious that this celebra- 
 tion, which was not attended by any indulgence in strong 
 liquors, should bo the cause of the tragedy I am now 
 
 about to relate. 
 
 The committee 
 on programme hud 
 quite a task to per- 
 form in arranuinir 
 matters. 1 1 w a s 
 the desire of many 
 that Miss Pellet 
 should be asked to 
 deliver the oration, 
 and aixain there 
 were many others 
 who were oppposed 
 to women orators. 
 The latter faction 
 was principally in- 
 fluenced by a young 
 gentleman named 
 Robert Tevis, of 
 whom I must say a 
 few words before 
 proceeding. Mr, 
 Tevis was a broth- 
 er of Lloyd Tevis, 
 well known in Cal- 
 ifornia to-day. He 
 
 coMiNo OVER THE MOUNTAINS. was auxious to Ob- 
 
 tain a seat in Congress, and for that purpose had lately 
 come to Downieville to make himself popular with the 
 people in the district. He had joined the Sons of Tem- 
 perance, and was doing his best to make friends, although 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 157 
 
 he lacked personal magnetism, and that power of making 
 himself popular, which is of great advantage to all men 
 entering the political arena. 
 
 Nevertheless, Tevis was well thought of. He came 
 of a Kentucky family and exhibited all that polish of 
 manner and speech, characteristic of southern gentle- 
 men. He was of pleasing appearance, and his ideas of 
 chivalry and honor were in strict accordance with the 
 orthodox code of the community in which he was 
 brought up. He was fond of sports; was an excellent 
 marksman, and without being brilliant, possessed more 
 than average intelligence. But his temperament was 
 highly nervous and excitable, his feelings were easily 
 provoked and, when wounded, he would take the offence 
 deeply to heart. 
 
 Anxious to make a favorable impression upon the 
 people, whose support he was soliciting, Mr. Tevis fought 
 hard to be made orator of the day, and hence the diffi- 
 culties of the committee. Ultimately a compromise was 
 brought about. It was decided that Miss Pellet should 
 be invited to deliver the oration, while Robert Tevis was 
 appointed to read the Declaration of Independence, and 
 was granted permission to make some a])propriate remarks 
 on the illustrious document. 
 
 There were probably 3,000 people in Downieville at that 
 time and there was no lack of loyalty among them. The 
 throna: that leathered to listen to the oration was a laro;e 
 one and included nearly every one in town. The cele- 
 bration began with a salute from all the rifles, shotguns, 
 pistols, and everything else that would go off with a bang, 
 after which the primitive brass band played a few patriotic 
 airs as an introduction to the more serious features of 
 the programme. 
 
 Then Mr. Tevis read the Declaration. As soon as he 
 
158 
 
 HUNTINC. KOK (iOM) 
 
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 i; 
 
 liatl fiiiisliod ho took mlvantai^e of tlie j)rivile!jfc «jfrante<I 
 liiiii by tlie coiiuuittuo, and addros.sed the luc'ctiiiin' on the 
 importance of the Constitution; on national issues and 
 on anything and everytiiing else that occurred to his mind 
 as a means of making himself heard and impressing him- 
 self upon the public. He went on speaking, ap[)arently 
 without any consideration of the time he was occupying 
 and annoyance ho was causing, until at last the Sons of 
 Temperance, who were at the head of the celebration, 
 took oflence at his persistency, and determined to silence 
 him. Accordinuly the order was given for more firinix, 
 and soon the hills around echoed with a thunderinix noise 
 of exploding powder, which continued, until Mr. Tevis 
 found it impossible to make himself heard any more, and 
 sat down vvith evident signs of an<rer, while the fair 
 orator of the day stepped to the front, and silence having 
 now been restored, delivered her address, which was 
 received with much enthusiasm. The event caused a 
 great deal of comment unfavorable to the ambitious can- 
 didate for Congress and rather retarded than furthered 
 his chances. 
 
 The Hon. Chas. Lippencott was at that time State 
 Senator from Yuba County. He was the son of a clergy- 
 man in Illinois, and a gentleman of exemplary habits. 
 He was an excellent writer, possessed of a highly culti- 
 vated mind and a keen sense of the humorous. There 
 was no Democratic paper in Downieville then, but the 
 Democrats had made an arrangement with the proprie- 
 tor of the "Sierra Citizen" to run a few columns in that 
 paper, and Lippencott had been appointed editor of 
 them, and was solely responsible for their contents. 
 
 The ludicrous position in which young Tevis had 
 placed himself at the Fourth of July celebration, had so 
 much impressed the Senator that he could not resist 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 159 
 
 tlie teinptatioti to give hiiu a roasting in liis part of the 
 papor, and when the " Citizen" made its apj)earance, the 
 aspiring poHtieian was hauled over coals in a manner far 
 from complimentary to him. 
 
 The next day Tevis appeared in the editorial room 
 of the "Citizen" and demanded the publication of a card, 
 which pronounced the author of Lii)pencott's article "a 
 liar and a slanderer." He was beside himself with ra«»'e: 
 his cheeks were palid, his voice shook with emotion, and 
 he would not listen to argument. Mr. McDonald, who 
 knew Lippencott well and was aware of his wonderfnl 
 skill with tire-arms, advised Tevis to let matters drop. 
 He told him that the inevitable consetjuence of such 
 publication would be a challenge, and that bloodshed 
 would follow. The young Kentuckian said that he was 
 anxious to fight; his honor had been assailed, and only 
 a duel could satisfy him. If the card were not pub- 
 lished, he would consider it an act of hostility to him- 
 self. He had been held up to public ridicule, and want- 
 ed revenge. He would fight in the streets or anywhere 
 else, but there had to be a fisj^ht somewhere, as he was 
 determined to satisfy honor. So the card was pub- 
 lished, and immediately Lippencott sent a challenge, 
 which was promptly accepted. 
 
 Both men were Democrats and Odd Fellows, and 
 some of the leading Democrats at once took steps to 
 settle the matter amicablv, but soon realized that their 
 endeavors were in vain. The Odd Fellows took more 
 pains. Neither of the two antagonists belonged to the 
 local lodge, but nevertheless, a meeting w^as called at 
 once, and every effort made to settle the difficulty. The 
 brethren remained in session all through the night, and 
 until far into the following day, and several times it 
 looked as if they might succeed, but whenever a settle- 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 ment of the affair appeared probable, some of thein who 
 wanted the excitement of the duel, interfered in such a 
 manner as to prevent any pacific arrangement, and about 
 noon the following day, the meeting broke up without 
 havinof attained the desired result. 
 
 Besides the mental attainments which Lippencott 
 possessed, he was also an excellent woodsman. He 
 had spent some time in bear hunting and killing other 
 game, and was a dead-sure shot. He was a small, heavy- 
 set man, with light hair, piercing black eyes, deliberate 
 and resolute in his speech, and gave one the impression 
 of steadiness and self-possession. But he was of a much 
 gentler nature than his adversary. He declared, several 
 times, that he had no wish to kill a man with whom 
 he had never even spoken, and that he would rather 
 avoid a fight, but the nature of the public insult com- 
 pelled him to send the challenge. 
 
 Tevis was given the choice of weapons, and he select- 
 ed double-barreled shotguns carrying ounce balls, ui'.con- 
 scious of the fact, that with no weapon was his adver- 
 sary more familiar. The distance agreed upon was forty 
 yards, and each man in practicing, broke a bottle at the 
 first shot. 
 
 While the Odd Fellows were yet deliberating and try- 
 ing to use their iniiuence in the cause • f humanity, the 
 two combatants and their seconds left town on the quiet. 
 The public did not know whither they had gone, but 
 the Sheriff went in pursuit to prevent the fight. The 
 ground selected for the fatal encounter, was situated 
 some six miles from town. It was a fiat up in the 
 Sierras, surrounded by tall firs that cast their sombre 
 shadows over the place; but no sooner had the party 
 reached it than the Sherifl"s posse was seen on a dis- 
 tant eminence, and it was deemed advisable to move 
 
HUNTIN(i FOR GOLD 
 
 IGl 
 
 into an adjoining county, so as to bebeyond the jurisdic- 
 tion ot'tlie pursuing officers. Consequently, they crossed 
 the border and selected anovher place suitable for their 
 purpose. 
 
 It was towards evening when they arrived there. 
 The lofty fir trees reared their mighty stems around the 
 place, looking like so many watchmen, placed there to 
 guard the unbroken silence that prevailed. Not a bird 
 sang its ditty in these woods; not a sound was heard 
 outside the heavy breathing of the men, as they made 
 their way up the hill to the place of meeting. The light 
 of the waning day was still bright, although no sun ray 
 lighted up the scene, which was, to say the least, sepul- 
 chral in its aspect. No spot could be found perfectly 
 level, and in drawing for position, the higher ground 
 fell to the lot of Tevis. The distance was measured and 
 the two men took position ready for their deadly work. 
 Both appeared perfectly composed, and each one kept 
 his eyes steadily on his adversary, as he assumed his place. 
 It was then that Lippencott noticed that Tevis' second, in 
 parting with him, pointed to his own breast, as indicating 
 where to aim, and he took the hint to himself. Had he 
 not been persuaded already that Tevis was a master shot 
 he might have satisfied himself with infiicting upon his 
 antagonist a slight wound, but his experience and the 
 motion he had just observed, persuaded him that this 
 was to be a fight for life. 
 
 The combatants were ready and the signal given. 
 Both guns cracked simultaneously, and while the echo 
 repeated the tale of the deed again and again throughout 
 the silent forest, Robert Tevis sank without a groan to 
 the ground with ^ bullet through the heart, while a lock 
 of hair fiew from Lippencott's head like feathers from a 
 wounded bird. The fallen man had not made the nee- 
 
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 essary allowance for the incline ot the ground, and his 
 
 murderous lead had passed directly over his adversary's 
 
 left shoulder, grazing his face. 
 
 The survivor and his friend took their departure, and 
 the former tied to Nevada. In the yatherin*'' twiliij^ht 
 
 the companions of the dead man buried the body of their 
 friend in this lonely spot, and made their way to Downie- 
 ville to report the tragedy. Next day the body was re- 
 moved to town and interred in the hill-side cemetery. 
 The funeral was lani^e and demonstrative, and a i^reat 
 deal of sympathy was expressed for the deceased. Un- 
 doubtedly the whole affair had been pro])erly conducted 
 throuo-hout with the utmost fairness, but there were still 
 many who looked upon Tevis as the victim of that reck- 
 less spirit which characterized early life in California, 
 and too often caused the unnecessarv sheddinu' of blood. 
 
 Thus ended another quarrel brought about through a 
 Fourth of July celebration in Dowaieville, but I feel called 
 upon, before closing this, to give a brief account of the 
 two principal survivors of this episode, as far as I have 
 been able to follow them afterwards. 
 
 After awhile Lippencott returirjd to Downicvillc, but 
 he felt himself like another Ishmael. He was a sensi- 
 tive man, and it seemed to him that old friends did not 
 shake his hand with the wonted warmth, and acquaint- 
 ances reluctantly recognized him. Miss Pellet, who 
 reixarded herself as the innocent cause of all the trouble, 
 never forsook him during this trying period. She exerted 
 all her personal influence to reconcile public opinion with 
 the man who had merely defended himself when chal- 
 lenofed, and the brave stand she took in the matter could 
 not help exciting much admiration for her. When she 
 ultimately left Downieville, her departure was much re- 
 gretted, and the cold-water brigade dwindled down for 
 
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 HUNTING FOR (iOLD 
 
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 JUi' 
 
 want of a leader, and the Sons of Temperance became an 
 order of the past. 
 
 There seemed to be a strani^e fatality hoverin^^ about 
 this woman, which soon after once more brou<>"ht destruc- 
 tion m her path. She went to Oreijfon, and while there 
 a settlor undertook to pilot her through the wilderness, 
 but when the guide returned to his home he found that 
 the Indians had taken advantage of his absence, nmrdered 
 his wife and children, and burnt his home. Miss Pellet 
 afterwards returned East across the idains, and the last I 
 heard of her was that she was attending a woman sutf- 
 rage convention at Syracuse, New York, somewhere 
 about the 3'ear 1S70. 
 
 Mr. Lippencott was a strong supporter and warm 
 friend of the late Senator Broderick, who was shot down 
 in the famous duel with Judge Terry, the latter's tragic 
 end forming the closing chapter of an eventful life, in 
 which the reckless spirit of a border community had 
 been nurtured and developed. Senator Broderick re- 
 garded Lippencott as his ablest advocate and partisan, 
 and indeed the two men were placed in the same position 
 durinu: their lifetime — ^that of havinir to accei)t the inev- 
 itable and submit to the code that the community, the 
 age, and the custom prescribed for them. Senator Lip- 
 pencott was an honorable man, and his career in Califor- 
 nia distinguished him as such. His unfortunate entan- 
 glement in the duel resulted simply from his position, 
 and the prevailing spirit of border life, for at that time 
 a politician who would suffer himself to be called "a liar 
 and a slanderer," without prompt resentment, would have 
 been considered disgraced by most of his fellow-citizens. 
 
 After Mr. Lippencott had finished his term in the 
 State Senate, he returned to his home in Illinois, to find 
 his aged father dying, and it has been said that the report 
 
I 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 165 
 
 of liis sou's connection witli the fatal duel, broke the old 
 man's lieart. 
 
 When the war broke out, J^ip[)encott'w undaunted 
 spirit led him into a new field of activit}'. He joined the 
 Union Army, and distinguished himself in battle on 
 various occasions. He ultimately became a Brigadier 
 General, and after the war, rose to ini[)ortant civil offices, 
 becoming Secretary of State of Illinois, which office he 
 held for several terms, proving- himself, throughout, a 
 man of great physical and mental capacity — a true soldier 
 and useful citizen. 
 
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 RIVALRY AND DEATH. 
 
 One of the most exciting events, which took place in 
 Downieville in tiie early day.s, occurred in the fall of '55, 
 and is remembered by tlie encounter between Dave But- 
 ler and a miner named Moti'att. 
 
 Butler was a ^ambler and a bullv, and Moffatt was a 
 man whose uncontrolablo temper had on many occasions 
 led him to the verge of disaster. Only a few days before 
 the occurence took place, which suddenly terminated his 
 career, Moffatt had undertaken to move the stakes of a 
 claim, belonging to, and worked by Philo Haven, and 
 when the latter remonstrated with him, he had struck 
 Haven violently between the eyes. On that occasion 
 Haven said to him: "Moffatc, you wont live another 
 ten days." There was no intent on Haven's part to take 
 the life of Moffatt, but he was ])rompted to speak as he 
 did, through his conviction that the man's violent tem- 
 per would soon run him into serious trouble, and the fol- 
 lowing will show how singularly the phrophecy was 
 fulfilled. 
 
 In those days a good many traveling shows, principally 
 
 dramatic and operatic, visited Downieville. The prima 
 
 donnas were Sarah Bernhardts or Mrs. Langtrys on a 
 
 small scale — the glitter of gold had more to do with 
 
 their soul's contentment, than the inspiration of the arts 
 
 they professed to practice. They allowed the poor man 
 
 to look at them from the auditorium and the rich men 
 
 to court their favors, green room fashion, giving them a 
 
 fatir race in the competition, as the bids gradually rose, 
 ifif. 
 
huntinct fok gold 
 
 167 
 
 The reward of the fortunate ones generally consisted of 
 a recollection of bewitching smiles, and as many ounces 
 of gold dust as they had been in a position to put up. 
 
 Among the stars which occasionally rose upon Downie- 
 ville, was a Mrs. Kobb, who had become quite famous 
 for her beauty alike of face and voice, and who is [)rob- 
 ably better remembered by lier maiden name as Marian 
 Goodenow. Her presence was the signal for so many 
 aspirations among a certain class of the miners, and 
 everybody who had any gold to spare, was willing 
 to sacrifice on the alter of worship in the race for this 
 sweet singer's preference. 
 
 Among those who more in particular lay siege to the 
 woman's, good graces, were Butler and Moffat. What 
 means the former adopted to gain this point, is not 
 exactly known, but it appears that he left his rival 
 under the impression that he had outshone him with 
 the fair Marian. 
 
 Motfat, indeed, had not been idle. He had exhibited 
 all the ingenuity of a Californian miner for "catching," 
 and to that end had fired from the muzzle of his shot- 
 gun something like six hundred dollars worth of gold 
 dust into one corner of his claim — "saltino- it," as it was 
 called. Then he had conducted the object of his tem- 
 porary worship to the claim, had told her to dig and 
 helped her to pan, and in a very brief space of time the 
 charming songstress had carried from the claim in a ba^r 
 some thirty-six ounces of gold, believing it, or at least 
 pretending to believe it, one of the richest mines on the 
 field. 
 
 It was the recollection of these thirty-six ounces of 
 gold, which did not come into harmony with an inward 
 suspicion, that after all, he had been outdone by Butler. 
 
 A few days after the departure of jhe company 
 
Il ' I 
 
 I 
 
 it f 
 
 i(;s 
 
 IIlNTIN(i FOK (iOIJ) 
 
 MoM'ul was staiidiiin' in the bar-room of Craycroft's 
 saloon, when IJutlcr untorcd. "There conies tliat 
 .>('i(tunclrel Butler, ' said Mofiat, aeeonipanying his ex- 
 pression with a terrible oath. But these wi'rt' liis last 
 words in this world, as a well man, foi' l^utler heariiiij; 
 the expression, drew (piickly from his l)elt a revolver, 
 and sent the burly miner to the tloor with a bullet in 
 his breast. Mottat did not die instantly, but was carried 
 into a room behind the bar, where he lay lor sevi'ral 
 hours before he expired. 
 
 Meanwliile, the wildest excitement prevailed. Butler 
 Hed from the scene during the first confusion and made 
 out of town under cover of darkness and aided by the 
 ijcamblers who stood in with liini. But as the news 
 si)read, an<»rv miners massed at the corners and in the 
 open plaza, and then a wild })ursuit began. That niglit 
 tlie hills, up and (h)wn the Forks, were scoured higli and 
 low, and liad Butler been cauo'lit, he would not have 
 lived to recognize his captoi's: but he succeeded in mak- 
 ing his escape, and the se([uel of the atlair was not en- 
 acted until several years afterwards. 
 
 The miners, seeing that their eHorts to capture the 
 nmrderer had been frustrated, turned in anger upon 
 those who had aided and abetted him in his escape, and 
 the cry arose that the gamblers nmst go. And, indeed, 
 so summarily were these men dealt with that within a 
 few days the whole fraternity had ((uit the scene of ac- 
 tivity in Downieville, with the exception of old "Uncle 
 Jimmie," of wliom I have previously spoken. Uncle 
 Jinnnie had, at one time, been a baptist preacher, and 
 had merely changed his i)lane for administering' to his 
 fellow-men, I always regarded him as a villain of the 
 blackest dye, but his previous connection with the cloth 
 saved him on this occasion. 
 
 
 
 

 
 fk:kXh^v^i^ 
 
 x-:l^ 
 
170 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 H-tttf 
 
 
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 611 
 
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 Among tnosc, who took tho most active part in tliese 
 proceedings, was Calvin B. McDonald, the editor of the 
 "Sierra Citizen." It was he, who wrote an article 
 wiiich called the miners together in the Plaza, and in 
 consequence of which it was determined to expel the 
 Lrambleio from the town. McDonald was carried over 
 the heads of the excited miners into the middle of the 
 plazv where he made a rousing speech, in the course of 
 w' he urged the expulsion of the gamblers. In 
 
 rec r^nition of his action the miners raised a subscription, 
 gave him a champagne supper and presented him with a 
 $300 watch. It was a great feast and many enthusiastic 
 speeches were made on the occasion. The watch was 
 afterwards deposited with Ladd and Reese, who ran a 
 bank in Downieville, and one hundred dollars borrowed 
 on it, but. when some years after the little mountain 
 town was laid in ashes, the bank burnt up, and the 
 watch disappeared in a process of cremation. 
 
 A strange thing happened in regard to Moffat lying 
 mortally wounded on a lounge at the back of Craycroft's 
 saloon; the dying man sent for Haven. When the 
 latter walked in, Moffat disclosed the wound in his 
 breast, and Haven merely said : ''What have you got in 
 there— lead?" 
 
 "That is what !" ejaculated the wounded man. 
 'You were right the other day, when you told me 
 that I would not live another ten days; I know it — I 
 am going," 
 
 Dave Butler, the nmrderer, succeeded in getting out 
 of the country, but the awful avenger followed him, and 
 ultimately tracked him to his lair. His victim had been 
 a Free Mason, and it was said that, with unceasing zeal, 
 the Masons pursued him until they found him in Oregon, 
 two years after, and brought him to justice. A constable 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 171 
 
 was sent up tor him, and the two came down on a small 
 coastinjr si-hooner. One evenin^r the officer took him on 
 deck for an airinij, and after that the officer was never 
 seen. It is supposed that Butler threw him overboard, 
 althoUjLrh he strenuously asserted that he didnotknovv 
 what hud become of him. But Butler did not evade his 
 punishment. He was taken to Downieville, tried and 
 convicted, and expired at one end of a stroiii,' rope. 
 

 m 
 
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 ) I 
 
 A FOKTY-N^INMai'S YARNS. 
 
 I liavo proviously ret'eiTi'd to Mr. ]^hilo Haven, 
 and will now relate a few ot" the rt nienibrance.s he 
 reealls to my mind, as we converse together, of the 
 lono;-i4i»'o, and conjure U[> old, familiar scenes. My friend, 
 whom I met first in '40, is two years my senior, and 
 is, mentally and })hysically, well preserved. He is tall, 
 bony, spare, and has a facial expression varyino- from 
 stern determination to o-eniai kindliness, with interven- 
 in*r shades of temperament; on the whole, pretty well 
 denoting the man as he is. 
 
 We were talkin*'- over old scences and incidents that 
 we both remembered, when, siuldenl}-, Philo says, with 
 a lauL'h: ''1 never saw anvthinu: so absolutely ridiculous 
 as one scene that recurs to my mind just now. It hap- 
 pened up in the mountains, about the Yul)a, and made 
 me laugh at the time, and often after, till my sides fair- 
 Iv ached. I was travelino- a short distance behind a 
 Yankee who was drivinix his mule before him. The 
 animal was heavily laden, and carried, among other 
 things, a long-handled shovel which was packed so as to 
 project upward and outward considerably, on the right 
 side. 
 
 ''Gradually the trail became more difficult to trav- 
 el. It wound around the mountain, and ultimately led 
 us across a ledge for a short distance. The jjath was 
 narrow. On the right the rocks rose almost perpendic- 
 ularly, and on the left- was a sheer precipice of some 
 thirty or forty feet, before our gaze met the sloping 
 
 172 
 
HUNTINd FOR HOLD 
 
 173 
 
 side of tlic iiioiintjiiii wliicli cxtciulocl its ruj^'L.^od sidr to 
 tlu; rlviT l)(']()\v. Of cour.se wc wore used to tnivolini: 
 over such thoroiii.di lares, and 1 would, |»rol)al)ly, iiev»r 
 liave reniend)ered this partieuhir trij), luid it not heeii 
 for a su<lden luiid in the patli, wliieli oeeurred just as 
 we were ti'avi^liii;^" across tlu; oV(;rliaM<j;iiiij;" k'di^e. 
 
 The niuh', whicli led tlu; procession, was the first to 
 turn. It was just at the corner, when, owiuLi^ to the 
 general shakinj;' of the pack, the top end of the lon«;- 
 handled shovel struck a protrudinu;' howlder with an ctt'ect 
 which fairly took us all hy surprise. The force of the 
 collision was so jjfreat as to send the ooor animal oH' its 
 feet, and over the verjjfe of the ledo-e; and the Yankee 
 saw his i)ack «'ettinu' down liill at a rate entirelv uuex- 
 pected. But the funny feature of the occurence was 
 the manner in which he acted when he saw the animal 
 tlashing like a bird through space. With hoth arms 
 akimho, and looking at the animal with an expression of 
 utter amazement, lie yelled with a few strong oaths inter- 
 spersed : "Ho gray I Ho-gray I Ho gray 1" The idea of 
 a man calliuij: to a nmle, whicli is turning sommersaults 
 in mid-air, for the purpose of halting it in its mad career, 
 a[)peared to me so ludicrous, that I smile wMiencvcr I 
 think of it. 
 
 In rei>ard tt) the Indians, knowing the value of ofold 
 long before Europeans began to look for it, Mr. Haven 
 not only bears me out in my ideas, previously expressed, 
 but relates that he has seen Indian scjuaws panning 
 sjfold in Imskets made of wicker work, and covered within 
 with a layer of pitch. In connection with this Mr. 
 Haven tells the followinL*" amusimj;: storv : ''I wasca" . ed 
 on the Yuba at one time with a small party, prospecLmg. 
 We had been particularly fortunate, and our provisions 
 were beginning to run short, but I hung on in hopes of 
 
T 
 
 ■; 
 
 174 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 strikin<( soinething. We woro liviui;- cliiefl}^ on jerked 
 venison, Imt a good deal of it had gone bad and was un- 
 fit for eating. In those days a man who afterwards 
 became well known in Downieville, was in the habit of 
 following the camps and pi-^king uj^ such provisions as 
 the miners had discarded, selling the same to the 
 Indians for gold lumps or dust. This man was at our 
 camp at the time, and I saw him several times dealing 
 with an old Indian who came down with his son, and 
 always brought some very fine specimens of lumpy gold. 
 
 "I decided to find out, from the redskin, where he 
 obtained the lumps, and one day calk>d liim to me. 
 'See here,' I said, ' if you will point with your finger 
 in the direction where you find that gold, I will give 
 you and your boy all you can eat rifiht now.' My men 
 began to remonstrate. They knew that tlie limit of our 
 supplies was a magnitude nuich more easily defined than 
 the appetite of the two Indians, but I was determined, 
 and I repeated my request. 
 
 "The Indian looked at me with a hungry expression. 
 He pointed with one finger to the base of his stomach, 
 then moved the same member of his anatomy slowly up 
 the front of his body, until he came to his mouth, which 
 he opened wide and laid his finger in it cross ways. 
 
 '"That nmch .'" he (jueried. 
 
 "'Yes,' I said, 'I will fill you botli right up to there.' 
 
 "'All right;' said the Indian, and tlie bargain was con- 
 cluded. I started in the manner of a taxidermist to 
 stuff them, and fiap-jacks, venison, onions, hard biscuits, 
 tea and whatever else was at hand, disap[)eared almost 
 as <|uickly as it was placed before them. After having 
 thoroughly gorged themselves, and considerably dimin- 
 ished our atorcF they botli arose, evidently satisfied. 
 
 "'Are you all right ? ' I asked. 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 175 
 
 "'All right; said the father. 
 
 "'Now,' I said, 'I liave fulfilled my J>art of the bar- 
 gain, it is your turn.' 
 
 "The old man looked at his son, to whom he spoke a 
 few words, i>ivini; him, at the same time, a meanin«: 
 glanee, which I afterwards was able to translate, and 
 then placed himself with liis face towards a high bluff 
 that arose just in front of us. He seized the index 
 finijfer of his left hand between the index finirer and 
 thumb of his right hand, and holding it in the manner 
 of a gun, pointed it towards the bluff, looking straight 
 at it all the time. 
 
 "'You say, captain !' ue said after a pause, meaning 
 that he wanted me to repeat my re(|uest. 
 
 '^'Now,' I said, *3'ou point with that finger, in the 
 direction where you find those lumps of gold.' 
 
 "'AH right !' said the Indian, and without raising his 
 eyes from his finger, or changing his position, he slowly 
 turned around until he had resumed his former attitude 
 — facinij: the bluff. 
 
 "I was so much impressed with the streak of humor 
 in the cunning device on the part of the Indian, which 
 left me a fool on my own proposition, that I laughed 
 heartily as I realized how I had been sold, notwithstand- 
 insf the fact that niv nieii looked ylum and aniiry. In 
 fact, I laughed until the tears rolletl down mj' cheeks, 
 and the Indian, when I had reco. v led myself, turned to 
 me and said: 'I hke you; you good man. You no get 
 mad. Good man no net mad; bad man ofet mad.' 
 
 He then told me that on the followinij morning he 
 would send another son to me. I should give him some 
 flour, and he would conduct me to the place where the 
 gold was. In this respect he kept faith with me, but 
 that expedition does not belong; to the story I wanted to 
 
 
17(i 
 
 inN'riN'; lOK r,(»i,i» 
 
 
 l| 
 
 ill 
 
 tell, wliicli nil Tilv roiicrriis llif Iii)lia,ii iind his iiitcr- 
 |tr'ctiitJoii of M, (•(iiitriict, wliicli wniild, n«» douUt, liii\ <! 
 imz/.l<'(l ii, ' I Miili(lcl|»lii;i lawyrf' in ronr-L 
 
 "I liii\<; nicnt/ioncil tiif so ••alliil '( lold I>;ikc' (ixcit.r- 
 ni'^nt,, wliii-li \\;is ciinsrd hy ( ';i.|il,;dn St.oddjtrd, who 
 dffl;ir'<'<| \]>-'.i h<; h;i(l hrcii ;i,t, i,hc wondcr'Tnl L'd<c, iind 
 sho\v<'d wh:d, he ;dic'^<'d lo he ji, wound, on his h"^-, inlhi'l,- 
 • ■d hy th<' Indians. ( !;i|)l.;iin Stodd.'ird s ri'j)ort, (•;inscd (ho 
 w ihh'sli (■xcit-cnicnl. for ;i wliih', ;i,nd he iih,ini;»,l.cly under 
 took t,o <'in(h! ;t, p.irlA' <»! miners to the l;ikf whoic tho 
 
 (;d»uh;US U"i';isUn'S were sU|i|)OS<'(l 1,0 he. Tlic .slll.'lll |t;i|- 
 U' tJial; set out; ("or t,hi' hike, '^radnidly incrcjiscd in nuin 
 i)rcs, until at, hist,, scxcral t.hou-and nun nia(h' towards 
 t,h<' L;oal of tJioir' ant,irij»;i.t ions, witli ;is rci\cnt,a dcsir'o 
 t,o roarh it; as oxer' inspir'od tho .Itw.sot" ohi, ni loolviu'^ 
 for tJic |)K»nHsi'd kind. 
 
 In ro'^ai'd t,o t;his cNpi'dit ion, Mr. Ilason t;rns t,lic I'o! 
 h)win'4 st,or\', which tJirows sonio li'jht, upon tin' nia,t,t,cr: 
 
 "I was t,r'a vchnodN rr t.iic mount, auis witJi a, compan- 
 ion, on a. |ir'os|i.'ct,inL;' t.oiir, whou one o\cnin'^' wo niado 
 our- camit at thi' hasc of a \\\'^\i hilk I ascended tjie hill 
 t,() taki; a look o\cr' tin; sur'i'oundiii'^ countj'y, and t,o my 
 uliUftst sur|)r'ise, found the \;*lley ali\c witli at; hast; 
 t.lir<'i! thousand people, who were, evidently, c.nnpeij 
 tJiere temporarily, (^'allin^- my j)artner', we. descendi d 
 t(>iL,n'ther, a,nd joitK'd the throng;'. I found tliere;i man 
 with wdiom I had cr'ossed the plains, and he pointed dut, 
 to me (Japtain Stoddard, a I Miiladelphia '^•entleman, who 
 liad ollered to conduct this cr'owd to mw di'^'^iuLj's at, 
 "(«oId liake," when', he iia<i asHiiPMl them, wealth untold 
 
 (•(»ui<l 1><^ l"oUM«l. 
 
 "For several <lays we traveled a,lon;j;, (Japt^jun St^od- 
 dard ■LTuidin^' oiii' <-our'se, and at last, u a; j-ame u])on a 
 lake uesthul amoii).^ '*''\y iiiountains. 
 
 J. I i 
 
o 
 
 > 
 H 
 
 c 
 
 o 
 > 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 11 
 
 i 
 
 w 
 
 St 
 
 6r 
 
 "I 
 
 B 
 O" 
 ft) 
 
 B 
 
 e- 
 a 
 
i!''l 
 
 17H 
 
 HUNTINd FOR COLD 
 
 Mi^ 
 
 ' i, 
 
 '■ 'i 
 [I 
 
 ' 
 
 "'Tliiit is iti' said Jrtcddard. 'You see now tJic lake 
 \vith the l>lu(! water, wliidi I liave des(!ril)ed; tlic tlireo 
 peaks, and the Unj^ yoiidci', wliere I (;ainpe(L There arc 
 tons of gold there,' 
 
 •'About four hundred men at onee started, on a run, 
 for the sup[)oscd 1ol,s l)ut it was found liard to gcit at, 
 and wlien ultiniattdy r(!uelied by a ('irouit«)US route, was 
 found to he a l)ow]der shajxul soniewliat like a lo<j^, hut 
 not a sit^n of *;'old near it. 
 
 "Meanwhile, tlu; I'cst were deseendin*^ the sIojh!, head- 
 ed by Colonel X and ('aptain Stoddard. •You say 
 
 there are tliree jxjaksf said the Cohjiud 'but I s(!e 
 five.' 
 
 ' Stoddard looked in the direetion, where in rt;auty five 
 peaks towered aloft, and then, i^lancini;; at the; lak(3 below, 
 he turned deadly pule. 
 
 'What ails you ?' asked Ids companion. 
 
 'When I i^'et down there.' e.xclainied Stoddard, 
 evidently i^reatly distressed. 'I sliall not be abb; to see 
 tlie ])eaks — then how (;an I find the ^'old V 
 
 "Within an hour it had become evident to severa. 
 thousand men, that tluiy rt^presented as many fools. 
 Not a traee of gold was found, and expectations, hopes, 
 anticipations had suddenly turned to anger and a thirst 
 for revenge of the most intense nature. 'Hang liim I' 
 'I have a rope that will hold him 1' 'Here's a branch 
 that will carry him !' 'String him uj) !' Sucli were 
 the exclamations mingled with imprecations that filled 
 the air for a few moments, as hundreds of men made 'x 
 rusli in search of the Captain. 
 
 Tlie strange conduct of the latter, and his incoherent 
 talk, as we a{)proached the place, had persuaded Colonel 
 
 X , myself and a few others that the; man was crazy, 
 
 or at least, not in his right senses. So, when the mob 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 170 
 
 f 1 
 
 t' 
 
 I 
 
 h 
 
 lit 
 .'1 
 
 V, 
 
 approached to seek vengeance oi) tlie unfortunate man, 
 we drew our revolvers and told them that so long as we 
 were al>le to defend him, no one iii that crowd would l)e 
 allowed to hurt a crazy man. That settled it, and 
 although tlu! poor fellow was made the target for a good 
 deal of abuse, after this no further attempt was made to 
 kill him. 
 
 While I was encamped with him 1 met a certain 
 
 John F. , of Philadelpl\ia, with whom I had had 
 
 previous dealings. I told him of the Captain, who also 
 claimed to hail from the Quaker City. "I know him," 
 said John. "The man is crazy. He is the son of an 
 English lord, and was sent to Am(;rica to be ke[)t out of 
 the way. Ho stayed for some time at my father's house, 
 and a certain sum of money was paid for his keeping." 
 
 After awhile Stoddard came in and apparently corrob- 
 orated John in some of what he had been saying. 
 After awhile the young Phiiadelphian said : "You say 
 
 you were wounded by some of the Indians, show me the 
 
 J) 
 scar. 
 
 Stoddard uncovered that purt of his leg where the 
 mark was, which he alleged was the result of an arrow 
 wound. "That," said John, pointing to the scar, "is the 
 result of a wound received from a fall he received in 
 Philadelphia city some years ago, at the same time 
 breakingc three ribs." 
 
 I cannot vouch for the correctness of John's statement 
 but at all events it helped to shield the poor Captain 
 against the revengeful s[)irit of many of the miners, 
 whose anger it took sometime to cool down. After 
 awhile Stoddard joined Major Downie's camp, where he 
 found protection against any attempts to annoy him. 
 

 I ,M ' 
 
 H- 
 
 FROM OBSCURITY TO FAME. 
 
 There are two persons wlioiii I remeinber from tlie 
 early days of Downieville, whose separate Hves after- 
 wards took them out of the hum-drum, jjfeiieral routine 
 of our ordinary existence, and led them into the paths 
 of strange adventures and uncxpectixl circumstances. I 
 allude to Colonel Daniel E. Hunoerford, and his dauiih- 
 ter, Mrs. Louisa Mackev, wife of the California Bonan- 
 za Kino-. 
 
 Daniel E. Hungerford was born in the State of New 
 York, in the year 1812. During that year, his father 
 fought against the British, and his grandfather, Dan- 
 iel Hungerford, fought in the revolution. The family, 
 wliich settled in America as early as 1628, is of old 
 Englisli extraction, and can trace its ancestors as far 
 back as 1325, during the reign of Edward II, when Sir 
 Robert Huno'erford was Knioht of Shire of Wilt. Far- 
 leigh castle, in Somersetshire, was for centuries, the 
 seat of the Hunuferfords, most of whom distino-uished 
 themselves as soldiers. 
 
 It was, then, an inherited military spirit which drove 
 Daniel Hungerford to the field of battle when the Mexi- 
 can war broke out, notwithstanding that lie had a young 
 wife and family to leave behind. The official reports of 
 that war frequently mention the name of Hungerford 
 in connection with "personal" valor," and indeed, he 
 proved himself a man of extraordinary metal. 
 
 After the war, he came to California. In July 'A\) he 
 arrived in San Francisco, having made a most adventurous 
 trip overland from San Jose del Cabo, and early in '50 
 
 
 180 
 
HUNTIN(i FOK GOLD 
 
 Iftl 
 
 ■X'i. 
 
 the youiii^ julvonturer appeaiLMl on the Yuba, In 'ol lie 
 .settK'd ill Downieville, and went into |)artnershi[) with 
 l)i. C. D. Aiken, with whom lie contluetedadru!>l>uisne.s.s 
 for several years, meanwhile bringing his family out 
 from the East. He organized the "Sierra Guards" and 
 laid the commission of Major, and was, in '55, presented 
 with a magnificent sword, bearing the inscription: 
 
 "Major Daniel E. Hungerford, from the Sierra 
 Guards, January 8 1855. Vera Cruz, Cerro (Jordo, 
 Contreras, Chapultepec, Gariten de Belen. Our vol- 
 unteers were there." 
 
 But Major Hungerford also had an opportunity to 
 distinguish himself as a soldier during that period. 
 After the Ormsby massacre he led the troops, organized 
 in Xevada, against the Indians in the Washoe war, 
 operating in conjunction with Colonel Jack Hayes and 
 Captain Creed Haymond, and to Hungerford is accorded 
 the honor of the Indians' defeat. He also headed the 
 first navioation of Pvramid liake. With him was a 
 ■party of thirteen, nearly ail Downieville men, and on 
 the island, at the north end of the lake, they l)uried a 
 bottle, containing an account of the ex[)editi(»n. 
 
 The desire for adventure afterwards took Huno'crford 
 through part of the civil war, when he became a Colonel, 
 and afterwards led him into a romantic expedition to 
 Mexico, which was fufl of interesting details and at one 
 time iiearl}'' brought him into serious trouble. 
 
 After having for some years engaged in railroad 
 speculations in Texas, and other enterprises, he retired 
 from active life and now resides at the Villa Ada, near 
 Kome, with his son-in-law and daughter, the Count and 
 Countess Telfener. He is a member of various scientific 
 societies and spends his life's eventide in interesting 
 researches and special studies. 
 
1— r 
 
 m 
 
 lH-2 
 
 HUNTING I"OK GOLD 
 
 J. coino iKtw to tlio second cliaractur in my sketch, 
 Maria Jjouiso Antoinette, i;enerally called by her second 
 name, the eldest daughter of Colonel HunL'crf'ord. 
 Mrs. Hiingerford was a Mademoiselle Eveline de hi 
 Yisera. Her }>arents were both French, hut she was 
 horn in New York Citv, and had received a liheral edu- 
 cation. As a wife and n»other she set x brilliant ex- 
 ample to most women; for, although devoted to her 
 husband, she never stood in his way when his patriotic 
 nature ur^vd him to the fi'ont to defend his country's 
 honor, or when his adventure-sookinir instincts drove 
 him into distant fields, where he expected that personal 
 (|ualitications would warrant success. On all such occa- 
 sions she sui)mitted to her husband's desire and iudjjf- 
 ment, hopinj^ for the best, and in her letters ex[)ressing 
 hyr tender love and devoted prayers for the absent one. 
 
 The issue of their marria^^'e was a son, who died as a 
 mere child; tlie subject of this sketch, and Ada Elmira 
 who married Count Geseppe Telfener. In '53 this 
 family followed the husband and father, and became res- 
 idents of Downievilie. I remember the two ij^irls well, 
 and more especially the elder one, whom we used to 
 call Louise. She was conspicuous, not merely for her 
 beauty, but for her pleasing personality and manners. 
 Her eyes were large and expressive; her features soft 
 and round; her teint of a fair, delicate tint, and her hair 
 fell in rich tresses, over her shoulders. But her winsome 
 ways crowned all her attractions, and denoted, not only 
 excellent breeding and a rare example, but also a warm 
 and generous heait, which, indeed, she had. But for 
 all that — who would have dreamed that the little I^ow- 
 nieville girl would grow up to rule like a princess in a 
 fairy tale. She was raised on the mines, and out of 
 them, as by the magic wand of witchcraft, rose the })ow- 
 
 I 
 
lil.l 
 
 .jlf 
 
 184 
 
 HTNTINC. FOR (iOI.I) 
 
 I' I |i 
 
 er tluit ill Jit'tcr years, ^av«! her the fame tliat slio new 
 
 L'llievs, 
 
 At th(Miu!;(^ of seventeen she married Dr. E. Kryant. 
 This prominent youn^' gentli'men Iiad become atta«-hed 
 to her tatlier's stati", hut liis career was cut sliort after 
 two years and a lialf ot wedded lite, leavini;- her a wi(hnv 
 witli a hal)y jn'irl, thi; present Princess Coh)nna. Rarely 
 perhaps has a woman had to pass through an ordeal as 
 trvinu" as did the subject of this sketch durinii that 
 period, l)ut she hore up with a fortitude and buoyancy 
 of temperament, characteristic of the soldier child, who 
 had inherited her father's couraijfe. 
 
 By this time Colonel Hungerford was figlitinj;' under 
 General McClellan, and liis wife had transferred her res- 
 idence to Virginia City, Nevada. Thither the younL? 
 widow went, and in order to help matters alon^; durin,L( 
 a period when their means were scarce, she established 
 a school m which she taught English and French, most 
 of her pupils being miners, and belonging to all grades 
 of society. Amonu them was John AV. ^lackav, whose 
 kindly and generous nature the most extravagant change 
 of fortune has not to this day altered. 
 
 The fire that destroyed Virginia City in the early six- 
 ties is yet remembered by many. Among the havoc 
 wrought was the total destruction of widow Bryant's 
 residence, school-house, and all her worldly possessions. 
 Immediately the sympathizing miners circulated a sub- 
 scription for the benefit of the unfortunate won:an and 
 her mother; but wlien it was presented to Mackay, he 
 looked it over, put it in his pocket, and remarking that 
 he would attend to that business himself, disapjteared 
 down the shaft. 
 
 And he did. He had just then bought the control- 
 ing share in the Hale and Norcross mine for .$13,000 in 
 
 wi 
 
Hl'NTIN(; lOK COLD 
 
 185 
 
 
 solid i^old, jiiul lie jukk-d to his t'ortuiio by iiiiikiiii^ tlio 
 luindsoine widow his wife shortly after. 
 
 The pheiioiiu'iial success which attended Mackay in 
 his lati-'r career, needs no historioi;ra|)her here. The 
 innnense wealth which he amassed, enal)led him to place 
 his wife in a position in which she hei^ame world-famed; 
 jind in after years the little Downieville ,i»irl has exercised 
 a spell, which could only he l)roUi,dit ahout, by the posses- 
 sion of extra vaij^ant means, cond)ined with the })ersonal 
 attractions of Ijouise Mackay. 
 
 As I write this, I have before me a leading;' San Fran- 
 cisco ])aper, which announces that Mm. Mackay, after 
 an absence of sixteen years, spent chitiey in Paris and 
 London, has returned to San Francisco. In it 1 read 
 one paragraph, whieli entirely endorses my own views, 
 already expressed, and I quote it here: 
 
 " Undoubtedly the impressiveness of her j^reat wealth 
 and the enormous array of attractions it can buy, has 
 had its part in her phenomenal social victories; but her 
 natural endowments, her (puck wit, and her great tact^ 
 liave been the more important factors in making many 
 of the first people of Europe her friends." 
 
 1 will not finish this sketch without making one more 
 allusion to her husband. He has often been judged 
 harshly and hard things have been said of him. Phe- 
 nomenal success is often foUow^ed by envy, and the green- 
 eyed monster will plant its claws in a man's character, 
 irrespective of truth. Personally speaking, California's 
 l)onanza king is the same plain-spoken, unpretentious 
 man iie was when, years ago, his hands were hard with 
 wieldinii- the miner's tool. He strove for success with 
 
 rment, and he is eminei 
 
 \grity 
 
 J' 
 
 intly 
 
 deserving of it, yet it never turned his head or heart. 
 I wdl close with an instance which came to my notice. 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 I.I 
 
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 120 
 
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18fi 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 I i 
 
 J 
 
 111 the fall of 1876 Edwin Adams, the famous actor, 
 returned to San Francisco, having completed a tour 
 through Australia. His health was broken, his purse 
 almost empty, and his friends in San Francisco either 
 dead or gone away. The great impersonator of Enoch 
 Arden was on the verge of dispair, and was daily sink- 
 ing, physically and mentally. His misfortunes came to 
 the ears of Mackay, and the next day a letter, contain- 
 ing a check for $2,000, was recieved by Adams to the 
 followinsi effect: 
 
 " My dear Mr. Adams: — Knowing you to be in some 
 slight financial strait, may I beg your acceptance of en- 
 closed accommodation, and thus permit me to discharge 
 in part the vast obligation I feel in common with hun- 
 dreds of others for your efforts in our behalf I trust 
 that we may long be honored with 3'our presence, and 
 that our stage may not soon be deprived of one of its 
 briijhtest ornaments. With mv best wishes for vour 
 success, and thanks for past favors, I have the honor to 
 remain your obliged and obedient servant, 
 
 John W. Mackay." 
 
 When Mr. Mackav was afterwards told that Adams 
 shed tears on receipt of the letter, he dryly remarked: 
 "Poor fellow, I wish to God I had sent him ten thou- 
 sand dollars." 
 
 Those who know the millionaire best say that his life 
 has been full of such acts, but he is one of those who lets 
 not his right hand know what his left hand doeth. 
 
 And such is the character of the man with whom the 
 Downieville girl was destined to share a wonderful for- 
 tune and a life full of romantic events. 
 
A SLAP-JACK FIEND 
 
 In the good old days, when "Wash" Huglies and 
 Page were partners and ran the United States Hotel, 
 the air in Downieville was full of fun, and practical 
 jokes were the order of the day. This caravansary was 
 then a big institution. It stood at the corner of the 
 Upper plaza and the proprietors were doing a rousin<*- 
 business, having always a number of constant boarders 
 and the trade of a large proportion of visitors who came 
 to Downieville. 
 
 Among those who occasionally dropped into the hotel 
 to get a meal, was one particular man whom the waiters 
 called "Slaps" and as that is just as good as any other 
 name and fitted him better than his own, I shall retain 
 it here. 
 
 Mr. "Slaps," was not a regular boarder, either there 
 or at any other place. He was one of those individuals 
 whose erratic means do not always permit of a square 
 meal, and wlio therefore, as a matter of course and self- 
 defense, would ui)on more favorable opportunities counter- 
 act the evil effects of limited meals, by having a real 
 iTOod fill. 
 
 If there were a thing that culinary skill and a ])loa to 
 the waiter could produce, which tickled the palet of Mr. 
 "Slaps," that one thing was Slap-jacks, and tiie reader 
 will now see the connection. Slap-Jacks were to his 
 mind more palatable than paties de fois gras to the 
 gourmand of more advanced civilization and taste, and 
 fricassee of nightingales' tongues could not be sweeter 
 
 J87 
 
 II 
 
 it-'- 
 
" tr 
 
 188 
 
 HT'NTINt; KOK (lOLD 
 
 relish to the oriental i;]utti>ii, than were the hot cakes 
 of the United States Hotel to the hero of this sketch. 
 
 Whenever he made his appearance at the hotel the 
 waiters would give one anotlier that silent sign, consist- 
 ing of a "one and a half wink" with the left eye, which 
 only waiters can give and understand, and which in ordi- 
 nary parlance means "Here goes!" The visitor would 
 take his seat and assume an air as if he ran the place 
 and owned all the slap-jacks — past, present, and future 
 conditional— and call out "hot cakes." Then the fun 
 began. Our friend could eat a plate of slap-jacks in 
 shorter time than it takes to tell, and no sooner disposed 
 of, he would call again: "Another plate of hot cakes, 
 waiter, if you please !" 
 
 It had been attempted several times to count the 
 number of plates he ordered at any particular sitting, but 
 waiters as a rule, are busy men, when at work, and the 
 count had never been carried through so as to supply a 
 true statistic. One morniniif there was a rush at the 
 hotel. A number of people had come to town to be 
 present at aland sale in the neighborhood, and the hos- 
 tehy of Hughes & Page was crowded. In the dining 
 room it was "waiter" here, and "waiter" there, and the 
 obliging servants of hungry humanity ran to and fro in 
 their endeavors to please everybody, racing against time, 
 as they did their best. 
 
 In the midst of all this, our friend of Slapjack fame 
 entered. The busy waiters blanched as they beheld 
 liim, they knew that he would give them additional 
 work and impede progress- -and he did! Three help- 
 ings followed in quick succession. Our friend yelled 
 "hot cakes" till strangers dropped their knives and forks 
 and looked about, curious to see the "other fellow," 
 thiiddng they had got to a slap-jack contest. As "Slap" 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 189 
 
 
 made the final lap in the third round and opened his 
 mouth to call out ''hot cakes" the waiter attending him, 
 lost patience. He strode into the kitchen, where Mr. 
 Hughes was busy at the time, and laying the case 
 before him, asked the boss whether he could think of 
 any way in wliich to satisfy tlie extraordinary demand 
 on the i)art of "Slaps." 
 
 Mr. Hughes was a man of quick perception, and he 
 at once saw his way clear to solve tlie i)roblem. On the 
 top of the stove a number of **slaps" were sizzling, get- 
 ting ready for the table, but Mr. Hughes, with one 
 brush, had them in a heap, and emptied the batter buck- 
 et over the top of the large stove, dumping about three 
 quarts of the paste-like mixture upon it. In a moment 
 the stove top looked like a geological map of California, 
 but it did not take lono- to make it resemble what a wit- 
 ness described as a "cross between a horse-blanket and 
 a door-mat," and when it was finished, it was put on the 
 bi"i»"est dish in tlie establishment, and two men placed 
 it before the slap-jack fiend, just as he was about to 
 make another frantic demand for mt)re "hot cakes." 
 
 Our friend looked at the slap-jack, at the men who 
 brought it, and at the people around. The latter \vere 
 taking it all in, when they dropped to the joke, a peal 
 of laughter went up which scared the stranger and 
 caused his hasty retreat. Since that day he never 
 came to the United States Hotel, and where he ate his 
 hot cakes afterwards, I know not. 
 
YUBA POETS AXD POETRY. 
 
 DurinLj the oold niiiiiiiir (-lays on the Yuba a «»oocl 
 deal of poetry has been written by local men of talent 
 in that district, who wielded the pick and shovel durin*^ 
 their workinij hours, and rode Peoassus durino- their 
 leisure. It is true that the verses are often wanting- in 
 "feet" and therefore somewhat lame, but most of the 
 authors do not claim to i)e more than sontjsters of the 
 hour. 
 
 I have thought fit to mention a few of them here, as 
 they in some degree express the sentiment of the mining 
 cam}) and in tlieir very simplicity and faultiness are often 
 charming illustrations of the men who wrote them, as 
 well as of those for whom they were written. Foremost 
 among the Yuba poets stands W. K Weare. Mr. 
 Weare had participated in the Mexican war and 
 returned with honor. He was for many years mining 
 on the Yuba in various parts, and was afterwards a 
 guard at the State Prison, at San Quentin. Mr. Weare 
 is now a very old man, and is living in Nevada City, 
 remembered by all who knew him, as a genial, warm- 
 hearted companion. His poetry embraced epics and lyr- 
 ics as well as odes; heroic poems and sketches, and 
 many of his productions are very good. His "Ode to the 
 Pioneers" is remembered by many as a very impressive 
 poem. It begins as follows: 
 
 "Magician! Memory! break the epell of intervening time, 
 
 While we rehearse the deeds of all, wrought by a faith sublime. 
 
 Since when on the Sierra's crest a Pioneer first trod, 
 
 "When all was wild as when it sprang from chaos, or from God." 
 
 190 
 
HUNTIN(i KOK GOLD 
 
 191 
 
 Tlie ond of this Ode is very touching in all its sim- 
 plicity: 
 "How every day we hear of some, whose earthly bonds are riven; 
 
 Whose hands their hist deep shaft have sunk, their last long 
 tunnel driven. 
 Let's hope that in the fatherland they're called on to explore, 
 
 Are treasures richer, brighter far, than gold and silver ore. 
 For while the glorious West shall live, the pride of future years, 
 
 Thousands of liappy homes shall bless the grand old Pioneers." 
 
 Weare's real bend of mind and poetic perception comes 
 out well in his poem entitled "San Quentin's Graves," 
 in the foUowiny- lines: 
 
 "Yonder, near St. Francis City, queenly — mistress of the Bay, 
 Stands Lone Mountain, proud and stutely, where the rich and 
 honored lay. 
 There are tombs — proud mausoleums — spires and statues tow'ring 
 high; 
 Dainty in their sculptured beauty — which is but a sculptured 
 lie. 
 Telling to the humble mourner who shall seek the lonely spot, 
 
 Not the tenant's life relations, but precisely what was sofc. 
 Vain are all the towers and columns raised to conquerors by 
 slaves; 
 These are just as near their maker as San Quentin's outcast's 
 graves." 
 
 Indeed, Weare expressed very many pretty thoughts 
 in simple, but sympathetic language, and when, in 1879, 
 he published a volume of his poetry, his old friends were 
 glad of an opportunity to secure a collection they had 
 long urged him to bring out- 
 Following is a poem entitled "Sierra Buttes," the 
 author of which is unknown to me, although he was a 
 Yuba miner. 
 
 "Through Time's dim vista looking down, , 
 
 Perhaps frowning o'er some ancient sea. 
 Dark clouds then resting on thy crown, 
 
 And all around thee mystery. . • 
 
* 
 
 lt)2 HUNTING FOR CiOLD 
 
 •'Tlioii watchest the fierv crateiH flow, 
 And inountains lieaviug at their birtli, 
 Amid the molten hiva's glow; 
 
 Before mankind had touched the earth. 
 
 "Still towering upward into space, 
 
 A landmark when the morning breaks, 
 Yet men are delving at thy base, 
 
 And heeding not thy darksome peaks. 
 
 "Time fades, yet ever rolling on, 
 
 Men come and go and gaze on thee; 
 Like fleeting shadows they are gone. 
 But thou art for eternity." 
 
 Fred Stone, I l)elieve, is the author of the following 
 poem, entitled "The Village Maiden." Fred was sonie- 
 thino: of a singer and had a tune for the words, which 
 I think was his own composition although it may not 
 have been very orio^inal. 
 
 "Mother, dear, the bells are ringing. 
 
 There's holly on the window pane; 
 I hear the distant voices singing, 
 
 Christmas-tide has come again. 
 Winter's mantle, white, is lying — 
 
 On the earth lies crystal snow. 
 Gleaming, as the day is dying, 
 
 In the sunset's golden glow. 
 
 "Oh, it seems so hard to leave you; 
 
 To the earth I fondly cling. 
 Do not let these moments grieve you, . 
 
 Yet I'd like to see the Spring, 
 With its sunshine, all its flowers. 
 
 And its perfume-laden breeze ; 
 Glistening raindrops, after showers, 
 
 Like gems sparkling on the trees. 
 
 "I hear no more from absent Willie; 
 He stays so long beyond the sea; 
 There's the faded rose and lily, 
 ! . Which at parting he gave me. 
 
HUNTINC; FOR GOLD 
 
 IIKJ 
 
 e- 
 ch 
 
 lOt 
 
 See, I i)reHK tlieni, Koftly Hipfhiiij,', 
 
 And bodew tlieiii with a tear; 
 They are dead, and I am dying, 
 
 Dying with the waning year. 
 
 Do you think dear friends will miss me, 
 
 "When wild mirth will freely flow '? 
 No more village youth Avill kiss nie, 
 
 Underneath the miHtletoe ? 
 
 Nor Old Christmas, ag'd and hoary, 
 
 Bring its joys and hopes to me? 
 'Tis faded, gone; and in its glory, 
 
 Vanished with our Christinas tree. 
 
 Hark ! the bells so joyfully ringing; 
 
 The holly's on the window-pane. 
 And soft voices, sweetly singing — 
 
 "Kiss me, mother, once again." 
 
 Thus she sang; her heart o'erladen; 
 
 Her parting breath she softly si<;hed; 
 Death had claimed the village maiden, 
 
 Whils't yet 'twas Christmas-tide. 
 
 Old Sain Hartley took to rliyiiiing, occasionally, and 
 one of his productions i.s called: 
 
 MINING FOR GOLD. 
 
 I have traveled this world wearily o'er, 
 Hailed its wide seas, viewed many a shore. 
 Seeking to find, each jjath that I went, 
 For joys once found in a gold miner's tent, 
 That stood on the bank of Yuba's rich stream ; 
 E'er life's fond illusions passed like a dream; 
 The songs that we sung, the stories we told, 
 Down by the river, when mining for gold. 
 All's changed ; but mj' heart it feels the same glow, 
 For frienas a old times in that long ago; 
 The hills are as grand, as stately the pines, 
 But where are the friends I knew in the mines. 
 I viewed the old spot where the log cabin stood. 
 It braved the stern winter storms, and the flood; 
 The roof has gone down, the logs scattered lay. 
 
 I 
 
194 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLn 
 
 i 
 
 That the Iwiiul of ohl timo has br()U<4'ht to ilct-ay. 
 
 These rafters will sinj,' no more with wild >^\ve. 
 
 Nor make the lone stranger welcome and free; 
 
 The place now is silent, unlike of old, 
 
 Down by the river when mining for gold. 
 
 Hearty the greeting of friends we would meet, 
 
 III town midst the throng and crowds on the street; 
 
 No brow was o'ercast, nor tinctured with gloom, 
 
 All was success in the flats or the tiuine. 
 
 Many are scattered to come not again, 
 
 Few are the faces we see that remain, 
 
 Hands that we clasped with warmth, now ar(i cold, 
 
 Down by the river — laid under the mold. 
 
 Botli the latter j)oenis were sung by their respective 
 autliors, one Cliristnias Eve, u jjfood manv years a<jo, in 
 a miner's cabin on the Yuba. Tlie night was cold and 
 wild. Outside the snow fell fast, and the wind howled 
 round the corners; but within was good-cheer and mer- 
 ry comittinv. In the midst of this scene of comfort aiul 
 contentment, a knock came to the door, and upon open- 
 ing, a stranger staggered in, nearly overcome with 
 fatigue, cold and hunger. He carried a violin in a case 
 and was at once made welcome by the miners. They 
 did all to revive the traveler who was on the point of 
 succumbing to the hardships he had been exposed to. 
 He turned out to l)e Mr. Frank Littleton, the well- 
 known musician, and soon recoverinsji" under the influence 
 of an exceeding hospitality, he participated in the enter- 
 tainment and played the accompaniment for the two 
 miners mentioned above, as they sang their songs. 
 
 A frequent contributor to the poetic corner of Sierra 
 papers, uses the pseudonym of "Miner." His produc- 
 tions are generally descriptive, and in the following- 
 poem, entitled "The Snow-shoe Kaces," he has given a 
 good picture of a local sport which ailbrds much amuse- 
 ment: 
 
HrXTIMi I'Dk ii()Ll> 
 
 li>o 
 
 When Hiiow lies (l('c[) (Ui cvcrv liill, 
 Silence reij(ns — the birdn are still; 
 Where goM is nestlin;^' in the mines, 
 An<l (lark cliffs rest iinion;^' the i>ines; 
 The earth is robe*! in purest white 
 The sun gives out its dazzling' light; 
 The snnw-Hhoe racers each in place, 
 The given signal starts the race. 
 
 People in cities can never know, 
 How jollv it is to glide o'er the snow. 
 
 Down the mountain side, like hirds in flight, 
 
 Or meteors on a starry night — 
 
 Bending low to miss the breeze, 
 
 Flying past the stately trees, 
 
 lUishing down to tlat below, 
 
 Dancing o'er the "beautiful snow," 
 
 Falling, rolling, seeing stars 
 
 Then hear the laughing crowd's hurrah! 
 
 Away down the valley where oranges grow. 
 They miss all the fun we have in the snow. 
 
 Tin; ladies, too, with modest grace, 
 
 Will take their chance to win tlu! race; 
 
 Their hearts may beat with fear or hope, 
 
 But each has got her lightning "doi)e" — 
 
 The signal's given, oif *hey go; 
 
 Pull wild at starting, scratching snow, 
 
 And if the dears ai*e not experts. 
 
 The air seems tilled with snow and skirts. 
 
 They try again, with face aglow, 
 Determined to win or die in the snow. 
 
 When darkness o'er the hills advance, 
 The sport ends with a social dance; 
 Chill winter thus his pleasures bring, 
 And water flows with early spring. 
 Then glittering gold that lay below, 
 Is brought to light by melting snow; 
 The track is gone, but beaming faces. 
 With glee recall the snow-shoe races. 
 
106 
 
 HUNTING FUK GOLD 
 
 I 1 
 
 People in cities and valleyH may know, 
 "NVhen it is fnlliiif^ there's goUl in the snow.^ . 
 
 "Minor" irt also the autlior of a poem which ho calls 
 "The haniriiiLj o\' the Mexican woman," wherein he des- 
 cribesa scene with which my readers are already familiar. 
 I apj)end "Miner's" version and verses relative to the inci- 
 dent which I have more fully described in the preced- 
 ino" na-jfes: 
 
 'Twivs lon<^ ajjfo — a /iily morn — 
 
 The stars paled in the early light; 
 A nmn lay stai'k and dead at dawn, 
 
 His life ebbed with the shades of night. 
 A woman wronged by brawler's strife. 
 
 Bravely took the avenger's part; 
 One swift-aimed blow her glist'ning knife, 
 
 Plnnged deep into a miner's heart. 
 
 Men gathered, then, from near and far, 
 
 And left to silence raanv a mine, 
 On many a far-off creek and bar, 
 
 Then shaded by the oak and pine, 
 And rushed to swell the surging throng. 
 
 Like gath'ring streams in onward flood; 
 Men thus were wildly borne along, 
 
 Who shrank from shedding human blood. 
 
 The hot sun shone above the scene, 
 
 The river murmured in its bed, 
 The hills were clothed in summer green. 
 
 And birds were fluttering overhead. 
 Friends tried to shield her — all in vain — 
 
 They brought her forth with wildest jeers; 
 The die was cast, her blood must stain. 
 
 The annals of the Pioneers. 
 
BRITISH 
 
 COLUMBIA 
 
 107 
 
! ! 
 
 
 
 Id 
 
 oi 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 Arrival at Victoria — Sliai-p Practico^ — Indians Bring the First 
 CJold— The Hudson Bay Company — An Energetic (iovernor 
 — A Route to the Mines — Joining an Expedition — Natives 
 Surprised — The Dame and the Bullets — Adventures on a 
 Stream — ^Lilooet Lake — A Favorable Report — An Attempt 
 that Failed. 
 
 During the iiioiitii of July, 1858, I arrived for tlie first 
 tinio in Britisli Columbia, landing in Victoria. 
 
 At that time a tremendous excitement prevailed in 
 this colon}', caused hy the discovery of gold, the news of 
 which had spread all over the world. Rumors had sped 
 like carrier pigeons to the remote mountain diggings of 
 California, as well as to the more civilized portions of 
 the globe, and the spirit for adventure and the lust for 
 gold once more drew men toward a connnon center. In 
 this throno- that flocked northward alon<j the Pacific 
 Coast, were many of the pioneers of the Californian 
 miners, earlv settlers on the Yuba and American Rivers, 
 while otlier gold fields of Alta California were well rep- 
 resented. 
 
 For several years gold had been known to exist in 
 British Columbia, but it may not have suited the first 
 Caucasian discoverers of this fact to reveal the same. 
 As early as '52 Mr. McLean, who then represented the 
 Hudson Bay Company as chief trader at Kamloops, 
 learned of the presence of gold, but not of its where- 
 abouts. As in California, it was the native son of the 
 soil who first brought tlie precious metal into notice, but 
 as in the latter place, the priests, for reasons already 
 given, sui)pressed the fact; thus the keen business men 
 
, 
 
 ., 1 
 
 1 1' 
 
 [i,:^l: 
 
 m 
 
 Ibiii 
 
 ; 
 
 I I 
 
 200 
 
 HUNTIXG FOK GOLD 
 
 of the Hudson Bay Compaiiv may have also thouoht it 
 wise to remain silent about the matter. The Indians 
 were the first bearers of jrold to his Caucasian lord, to 
 whom he traded it, generally in the form of dust, for 
 such trifles as his fellow-men — fairer in complexion only 
 — saw fit to give for it. But by degrees the truth 
 leaked out, and the fact was revealed. Adventurers 
 came from the adjacent districts — Oregon and Washing- 
 ton in particular. They made their way up the rugged 
 country on either side of the Thompson and other tribu- 
 taries of the Eraser River, and it was soon apparent that 
 gold was plentiful. Then the stream of immigration be- 
 gan. I have shown how at this period the Californian 
 miner had become tired of home chances, which by tle- 
 grees had become few and far between, and with his 
 characteristic hopefulness he had left his old claim that 
 paid moderately, or his sluice and tunnel that kept him 
 in debt; had packed his pick and pan, rolled up his tent, 
 and like the Arab, silently stolen away. 
 
 To one who had profited by the schooling which min- 
 ing life imparts, as much as I had, the singular conditions 
 which presented themselves in Victoria during those 
 days did not seem very stran«j:e, but the youth wiio had 
 just left his mother's apron strings to go in search of for- 
 tune, may, indeetl, have felt some surprise at his first 
 experience on the road to the new liJi Dorado. The crowd 
 that trathered in Victoria was larirer and more mixed 
 than any I had seen before, and the number of "sharpers" 
 who practiced their tricks upon strangers, and made the 
 poor "greenhorns" their "ictinis, was astonishing. I re- 
 gret to say that in several of these unscrupulous specu- 
 lations I recognized some of my old Californian acquain- 
 tances, even a former Downieville miner. 
 
 Provisions became scarce at one time and prices rose 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 201 
 
 •st 
 rd 
 
 3d 
 
 >> 
 
 :lie 
 re- 
 cu- 
 lui- 
 
 ose 
 
 accordingly. Some of the old miners, who knew from 
 exi)erience, what hungry men will pny for food, comhimd 
 and offered the Hudson Bay Company to buy the bal- 
 ance of their Hour. Thus they secured several hundred 
 barrels, costing $10 per barrel at the one end, and a 
 couple of dollars per pound at the other. Then the men 
 became disheartened. They went to the Company to 
 incjuire whether all of their Hour had been really dis[)osed 
 of, and were greatly relieved when told that the lot sold 
 merely comprised their local stock on hand, but that in 
 others of their stores they had plenty which they would 
 be glad to sell at their ordinary rates. Thus the schemes 
 to extort money from the miners were frustrated, and the 
 speculators suddenly became wholesale dealers in flour, 
 without any chance of realizing an expected enormous 
 profit. 
 
 The man who at that time controlled the Hudson Bay 
 Company, was James Douglas, who very shortly after- 
 wards was appointed governor of British Colund^ia. 
 Mr. Douglas became very popular with the strangers 
 after this episode, and I may remark here that the officers 
 of that Company, throughout, were able, clear-headed, 
 and very accommodating men. I have had nmch to do 
 with them and always found them particularly pleasant 
 to deal with. Another corner was secured by a former 
 Monte-Cristo miner, whose labor in California had been 
 fraught with success. He bought up all the pans in the 
 market) and for awhile pans were at a premium; but the 
 mercenary vendor rendered himself so nmch detested 
 throuoh this deal that, no doubt, he had occasion to re- 
 gret his nefarious speculation. 
 
 The gold mining of British Columbia proved some- 
 what different from that of California. In the first place 
 the northern Indian was not as easily handled when the 
 
Ii ^ 
 
 202 
 
 HUNTIN(i FOR GOLD 
 
 (juestion was "(lio\i^in|Li" tor gold," as was his more south- 
 ern hrotlicr. The reason for tliis may ])robal)ly be found 
 in the diilerent nuinner, in whieh tlie vahie of gold was 
 presented to him. In California the suave priest would 
 not apparently place any value upon the gold. A meal,, 
 a piece of elotli, a little tobacco, .. mil if the Indian pro- 
 fessed Christianity, the absolution from his sins, would 
 constitute the barter, in which a lump of gold or a 
 (juantity of dust represented his side of the bargain. In 
 British Columl)ia the proposition was very difierent. 
 The mercantile world had thought fit to establish proper 
 business relations with the Indians. They had traded 
 with them on. a commercial basis, and when they dis- 
 covered that gold was worth anything t<» the [)ale-face, 
 they had accepted and received for it, if not an adequate 
 value, at all events, a value which was measured by a 
 business propof"' ion. Xo wonder, therefore, that these 
 savages objected to the sudden invasion of many thous- 
 ands of men, wlio came to take away part of the materi- 
 al, for the finding of which they were, in their own esti- 
 mation, handsomely lewarded. 
 
 But in addition to the hostility which the Indians 
 exhibited in so many instances, the miners had to con- 
 tend with the difficulties presented by tlie natural for- 
 mation of the country. Probably no [lart of the world 
 is more cut up by rugged mountains atd rushing rivers, 
 than British Columbia, and the road that naturally pre- 
 sented itself to the miner, as leading to the upper Fra- 
 ser, was a dangerous one. No sooner had Douglas 
 been made Governor of the possession, than he deter- 
 mined to send out a party for the purpose of finding, if 
 possible, another route, and he commissioned Mr. J. G. 
 McKay to head the expedition, which I was invited to 
 join. The idea was to find a route to the upper Phaser, 
 
HUNTING FOK GOLD 
 
 203 
 
 ItO 
 
 via Howe Sound and Lilooet Lake, and thus avoid 
 ascending the river through the canyons, where the tre- 
 (juent rapids rendered the journey practically risky. 
 Tliis trip attorded nie the first good opportunity of mak- 
 ing myself acquainted with a new and interesting coun- 
 try. 
 
 We went first to Fort Lani^ley, where we were 
 equipped with all the necessaries for our expedition. 
 The so-called forts were trading posts, established in va- 
 rious parts of the country by the Hudson Bay Compa- 
 ny, and most ot* them were called by the name of some 
 prominent ofiflcer of this famous organization, which at 
 these centers carried on their trafiftc with the native 
 tribes. The forts were all constructed on the same 
 plan, although they difiered in regard to the number of 
 buildings they contained. The sites selected for the 
 forts, was commonly a spot on the bank of a lake or 
 river, elevated so as to form a point of vantage over the 
 surrounding country, and the buildings of which the 
 post consisted, were constructed of hewn timbers, 
 and varied in number from a single block-house to 
 fifteen or twenty. In the latter case they consisted of 
 one or two large houses for the officers and clerks, and 
 the quarters for the mechanics and laborers. In addi- 
 tion to these were spacious store-houses for the recep- 
 tion of goods, more particularly furs, shops for carpen- 
 ters, coopers, blacksmiths and other trades, and a pow- 
 der maofazine, built of brick or stone. In some few 
 cases the posts also had a school-house and chapel. 
 
 The whole of the little settlement was surrounded by a 
 strongly-built stockade from fifteen to twenty feet high, 
 on the inside of vvliich, near the top, ran a gallery, pro- 
 vided with loop-holes for nuiskets, in the manner of 
 mediteval tortifications. The picket-work or palisading, 
 
 ^1 
 
204 
 
 ;IUNTIX(; FOR frOI.I) 
 
 MM 
 
 ■llill 
 
 f--\n- 
 
 i,; 
 
 was Hanked witli l)asti()ii.s. of vvhicli tluTc wore ijenoral- 
 Iv two, placed diai'-oiuilly at the coniei's of tlio lort, and 
 inoiiiitcd with small pieces of cannon, and jnovided 
 with the •necessary loop-holes for muskets. In foundin*^ 
 these posts the principal items, taken into considei'ation, 
 •jfonerally were the accessihilitv of the location, t)ie num- 
 ber of Indians and the ahundance of tiir-itroducinu- ani- 
 mals in the neighborhood, as well as the soil in which 
 grain and vegetables were raised for the supply of the 
 place. At nujst of the posts garxlening and farming 
 were carried on (juite extensively and successfully, and 
 large numbers of tine cattle were raised; while at oth- 
 ers, less favored, the bi'ave representatives of the com- 
 pany had, as a rul. , but a scanty supj)ly of food, princi- 
 pally c(jnsisting of salmon and other fish, with such 
 wild fruit as the Indians might bring, and occasional 
 contributions of game. The latter was, however, 
 already, in those tlays becoming a luxury, owing to the 
 persistency with which the deer had lieen hunted for 
 years for the sake of its meat and the antlers of the 
 stag. I was much i i pressed by these forts, when I 
 first saw them. It is true, that they offered but a ]X)or 
 [»rotection against modern artillery, even as it was then; 
 but they presented (piite a formidable appearance, and 
 have always been found to serve their purpose well l)y 
 over-awing the Indians and successfully resisting their 
 attacks. 
 
 Fort Langley is situated on the South side of the riv- 
 er Fraser, about twentv-five miles from its mouth. It 
 was already then an old, extensive establishment, I 
 believe at that time, under the supervision of Mr. Yale, 
 who held a prominent position with the company The 
 company had a laro;e farm here witli a considerable 
 amount of stock. The land, which had been cleared of 
 
t 
 [ 
 
 ie 
 
 k 
 
 SIR JAMES DOUGLASS, K. C. B. 
 
 
 
 ]• 
 
 -;--f" 
 
I 'if* 
 
 ill 
 
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 mm 
 
 I 
 
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 I 
 
 2o(; 
 
 HUNTINfl KOK (iOLD 
 
 lieavy tiinl)c'r, produced excellent crops and vef»Ttal)les 
 and fruit |j;re\v in abundance, during' their respective 
 seasons. AH tlirouo'li ilie district were small piaii'ies, 
 in which a luxuriant s^Towtli of jjfrass aHorded splendid 
 |>asture for the cattle, 'ind yielded, in addition, an ahun- 
 dant supply of liay for the winter. On the opposite 
 side of the river there was an Indian village.', in which 
 dwelt the renniant of a once numerous tribe. They 
 had, however, in common with many of their sister 
 tribes, who enjoyed the close association of the pale-face, 
 become considerably reduced, both in nundjers and mor- 
 als, for it is a sad fact, that in the contest between civi- 
 lization and savagedom, the latter is generally annihila- 
 ted. 
 
 Ill later chapters I shall liave more to say about 
 these, our copper-colored fellow-beings, for I came nuich 
 in contact with them and had ample opportunity to 
 observe them. Meanwhile I return to our trip in 
 search of a route, by which the miners might more 
 easily reach the regions of the Upper Fraser. From 
 Langley we took the trail to Howe Sound and then 
 steered our course forLilooet Lake, arriving there after 
 several adventures. We got a right royal reception, 
 when we approached the first Indian village. The 
 whole population came out to meet us, but the welcome 
 was sent per musket ball, and we did not care for it. 
 Some of the braves mounted a pile of wood and continued 
 pointing tlieir guns at us, but I realized that the first 
 exhibition of fear would mean death to us and told Mc- 
 Kay so. Linked arm in arm, we marched bravely for- 
 ward, and when we reached the base of the stack of 
 wood, we held out our hands for them to help us up, 
 which they did in a mechanical sort of way, apparently 
 taken aback by our cool demeanor. My eye caught 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 207 
 
 siuj-lit of one old (Uiino, wlio carried a lon^' bai^, apparently 
 containing lUnips of .soniethin«r. iVty cnriosity was 
 aroused, and, tliinkin*^ for certain that it was gold, I 
 made u[) my mind to lay siege to tlie good will of the 
 ancient beauty; but I entirely lost ujy ambition in that 
 direction, wlien I saw hci* opening the bag a few minutes 
 later and take from it a number of muskets balls, which 
 she distril)uted among the young braves, that they might 
 make holes in us. Such conduct would have })Ut a 
 damper on the good opinions of her most ardent admirer. 
 
 After awhile, we succeeded in making friends with 
 the Indians, who were known as the "ITnamish," and 
 were considered a somewhat treacherous tribe. In 
 return for a nmsket they gave us a canoe, and we now 
 followed the stream thinking that we liad improved our 
 conditions somewhat; but we soon discovered that the 
 cant)e was too small to be of actual service to us. 
 However, we made the best of it for several miles and 
 then came across another canoe on a bar. We left a 
 nmsket in payment for it and traveled on, after having 
 divided our pack; but we had not gone far, when we 
 were overtaken by the owner of our new craft, who came 
 after us in another dug-out;standing up in the bow of it, 
 he shouted to us to halt, and we thought best to obey. 
 He had a lt)ng lua tea talk with Mr. McKay, who gave 
 him some tobacco and made friends' and then we jiro- 
 ceeded up the river. 
 
 I must admit I did not relish our navigation very 
 much; and I sujipose it was because, at that time, I was 
 unused to the scenes that presented themselves. Every 
 now and then we came upon Indian villages, and every 
 time we had to halt and keep talking with the inhabitants, 
 who came down to accost us. We also had to o-ivo them 
 presents at every place, consisting of powder, musket 
 
208 
 
 HUNTINC. l-OK (ini.I) 
 
 
 halls, tobacco or other things, which they apprcciatcfd. 
 They had adisaj^reeably, insiiiuiitiiiijf way of haiiL^iii<^ over 
 the i^unwale of our canoe with hi*'' howie knives in their 
 hands. It is an old sayinuc, ^'^'^l ^ true one, that 
 familiarity breeds contempt, and I suj>pose, it did with 
 me, for I soon became accustomed to their wavs and 
 took no notice of them afterwards, but on the occasion 
 of my first introduction to these people, their manner of 
 approachin<4' strangers ott'ended niy sensibilities. 
 
 We were fortunate enounh to be able to leport the 
 possibility of traveling by the route, proposed, and reach 
 Lake Lilooet 1)V it. This watershed possesses at lea,st 
 one remarkable feature — the turbid appearance of its 
 waters, which are of a dirty green hue. This is quite 
 an exception to the general rule, for in British Colum- 
 bia the water of the lakes is noted for its remarkable 
 purity and clearness, the lakes, as a rule, being exceed- 
 ingly deep. The reason Lake Lilooet does not follow 
 suit in this respect, may be found in the tact, that the 
 feeders run over a species of argillacious earth, which, 
 no doubt, imparts to the water the offensive color. 
 
 The importance of our successful endeavors to find 
 this passage could be only fully realized by men who 
 had traveled in these regions. It was not long before a 
 proper route was established to the Fraser river by way 
 of Lilooet Lake, the Lilooet and Harrison mines, the 
 Lilooet Meadows, lakes Anderson and Seton, these 
 points being interspersed witli mule trails. 
 
 On our return we went to Nanaimo, where we were 
 kindly received by Captain Stewart, Adam Howe and 
 Dr. Benson, all of the Hudson Bay Company. Gover- 
 nor Douglas received our report with much satisfaction 
 but desired us to find, if possible, another short route, 
 which could be utilized at once without any further 
 
HUNTiNc; KOK (;oi,r) 
 
 2(»'.> 
 
 trouMc ill the niakiiiL^ of trails, rtc Tho Govornor liad 
 a tlioory tluit this rould ho roahzed hy .startin;;" tVoii. a 
 point higher U[) (»ii the coast, and we made an attempt, 
 starting from Jarvis Inlet, hut after a very hazardous 
 trij), on whieji ^ve suft'ered numerous liardshi[>s, we 
 liad to uhandon the idea, as wholly impraetieahle. 
 
I ; 
 
 CHAPTER ri. 
 
 (^ueeu ("Imvlotto Islnml — (ndd Harbor— Sootcli Guy — The Majesty 
 of Niitiire — Ciiptiiin (ujld -Potliitcli — I'oliticiil ('iiiiipaij^iiH — 
 Tott'iuH — Ar(!liit('ct.uro iiiid Art — An IntcroHtinf^ I'ooplo — 
 Vanity of ^Sllva{,'•ed()lu -CuriouH Customs — The Denth-dauce 
 — Myth and Legend. 
 
 Early in tlio yoar 185!) I was ono of a party, oiiil)ark- 
 injj^ tor tilt) QuooM Charlotte Islands. Wo had chart- 
 ered a sehooHi'r in eonimand of Captain llobinson, and 
 my intention was to prospect the islands for ^old and 
 afterwards ex [)lore the cost of the mainland, as (gover- 
 nor Douglas was anxious? to know more about the 
 numerous iidets there, as well as the possibility of loca- 
 tin_i^ an available pass for the buildinijf of the projected 
 Great Canadian and Pacific Railway. 
 
 We were a band of twenty-seven miner?, all old hands 
 and well tried, and we steered our course for Gold Har- 
 bor on Moresby Island, but only to find it a second Gold 
 Lake of California fame. We carefully examined a spot 
 where a large (quantity of gold had been taken out some- 
 time before, but could not find anything worth work- 
 ing, although we saw quartz and did some blasting. 
 The general nature of the rock was trap and hornblend, 
 and, at the head of Douglas Inlet, we found gran- 
 ite, as well as slate, talcose rock and coal, but not gold; 
 and I concluded, tliat the large amount of this metal, 
 which had been found previously in those parts with so 
 little difficulty, existed merely in what the miners call 
 an oflT-shoot or blow-out, which can only be explained as 
 one of those freaks of nature, so often found in a min- 
 ing country. 
 
HUNTINCi FOR GOLD 
 
 'ill 
 
 In the Ski(l<;iite Clianiic'l wa nut with but littln bet- 
 ter succosH. We were wind-bound For some time near 
 tiie Casswer Indian village, where we discovered traces 
 of previous prospcicting. Here the indicatioi»s of jjjold 
 were ci'rtainly more distinct. We met an Indian Ciiief, 
 who to accommodate us gave lii^' name as Scotch (iuy. 
 He wore a large piece of gold, weighing probably two 
 ounces, but he could not be persuaded to tell us, where 
 he found it. As to ourselves, we could not find any 
 gohi. There was plenty of sulphurate of iron, talcose 
 slate, and red earth, and I received the impression, that 
 the natives there are first-class prospectors, and know 
 all about ijold mininy;. 
 
 The coast from Casswer village to Skidgate Channel 
 presents some of the wildest scenery, I have ever seen. 
 The rocks rise like mighty giants, daring the approach- 
 ing sailor to set foot on the island they guard. They 
 stand bold and defiant with the scars of ajjes seaminy; 
 their sides in the shape of rifts and fissures, and, at 
 their feet, the waters roll with a strong underswell 
 towards the uninvitiny; shore. But here and there a 
 narrow inlet will admit the traveler into a small natural 
 harbor. Also this may be surrounded by towering 
 mountains, reariny; aloft with the same threatening; 
 appearance, while here and there a waterfall, like a thun- 
 ! dering, splashing cascade, throws its contents into the 
 otherwise quiet harbor and makes its waters turbulent. 
 
 An investigation of the northwest portion of the isl- 
 and revealed the fact that it consists chiefiy of low, sandy 
 or gravel flats with no indications of being a gold bear- 
 ing country. We therefore gave up our search for gold 
 in these quarters and set sail for the mainland, intending 
 to explore the country from Fort Simpson to Fort St. 
 James. 
 
im 
 
 '!•! 
 
 'i'lii 
 
 1 
 
 . - ■ 
 
 
 i» 
 
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 212 
 
 Ht'NTI\r. FOR GOIJ) 
 
 But wliile I have tliu.s hricfly taken my reader over 
 what I may call the business portion of my first trip to 
 Queen Charlotte Island, I propose to dwell a little longer 
 on tlie natural conditions that came to niv notice, 
 whilst there. I consider this part of the world a highly 
 interesting one and my observation of the Indians showed 
 them to be a race, different in many respects to the 
 ordinary redskin. 
 
 The large group of islands was originally discovered 
 in the year 1774 by a Spanisli navigator, named Juan 
 Perez, who called them Caho De St. Martj^arita, but as 
 early as 1787 a Captain Dixon, in command of the ship 
 "Queen Charlotte," gave them their present name, and 
 during the following year Captain William Douglas of 
 the ship "Iphigenia," with a poition of his crew, were the 
 first white men who sat foot on the islands, landing in 
 Parrv Sound and establishino- the first trade with the 
 natives. However, up till the time when I first visited 
 these Islands, no systematic attempt had been made to 
 explore them, with the exception of one, made by the 
 French adventurer, Captain Etienne Marchand, who in 
 the year 1791 with the ship "Solide," visited the south- 
 ern seas and explored a small portion of this archipelago. 
 Since my first visit to these islands the Colonial govern- 
 ment has done much to ascertain the nature of them 
 and has made exact charts of the group, and I may 
 mention the name of Newton H. Chittenden as a gentle- 
 man, who has spared no efforts to explore them, gaining, 
 as a result, not only much knf)wledge as to their phys- 
 ical condition, but also learning many interesting facts 
 about their inhabitants. 
 
 The whole group is said to consist of some 150 islands. 
 They are separated from the mainland l)y Queen Char- 
 lotte Sound, which varies in width from thirty to eighty 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 213 
 
 miles. Their most southern point, Cape St. James, is 
 one hundred and fifty miles from the nearest point of 
 Vancouver Island, and to the north they are separated 
 from the Prince William ^^^roup of x\laska by Dixon 
 Entrance, having an average width of about thirty 
 miles. 
 
 The general physical conditions of this archipelago 
 would give the impression that it is merely the remnants 
 of a terra Jirma, which, through some fearful revolution, 
 has been reduced to a most bewildering labyrinth oi 
 islands and islets, separated by sounds, straits, passages, 
 and fringed with inlets of the most phantastic shapes. 
 Thn)U!j::h the entire lenorth of the islands runs a mount- 
 ain chain, ranging in higlit from si\ hundred to five 
 thousand feet, covered with an evergreen forest of spruce, 
 hemlock and cedar, which, with few exceptions, stretch 
 from their summit to the coast. The exceptions occur 
 where the coast in sonic j)laces is rock-bound, and in 
 others is found of sandy soil . 
 
 Many remarkable eflects are produced, both in scenic 
 and geological respect, where the coast is rocky. In 
 some places the highest elevations on the immediate 
 coast do not exceed four hundred feet, while in others 
 bold, rocky bluffs rise to the highth of eight hundred 
 feet, at times as high as twenty-five hundred feet, above 
 the level of the sea, the mountains bordering on the 
 inlets, presenting an almost perpendicular front. 
 
 There are, I suppose, an uncounted number of streams 
 on these islands. They are naturally only short, but 
 rush towards the ocean with swift currents, and fall into 
 the larger waters with a thundering noise, as they leap 
 down the steep rocks or make their way over the more 
 gradual mountain slopes. They add considerably to the 
 grandeur of this singular nature, which on the whole is 
 
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 HrNTIXC, FOR OOLI) 
 
 exceudiii^'Iy jucturesquo, foriiiinL»' wonderful scenes, in 
 which blend the (jcean hlue and the forest verdure, with 
 the silver spray of the rivers and the .solemn rocks that 
 rise where the breakers toss their white-capped heads at 
 their feet. 
 
 If the theory be correct, that these islands at one 
 time belonged to a terra jirma, a portioii of which is now 
 buried beneath the rolling' waters, there can be no 
 doubt that this land was gold bearing and probably 
 richly so. The gold found in '52 in Mitchell Harbor, 
 bt^tter known as Gold Harbor, may have been a corner, 
 broken away from a large and rich supply, which now 
 lies many faohoms below. In parts of the island there 
 are indications of gold, but I have not learned as yet, 
 that any quantity has been found since the Hudson Bay 
 Company took out the gold referred to, the presence of 
 it beino' revealed by an Indian, known ever since as 
 Captain Gold The whole of that quantity amounted to 
 only $5,000, which after all was nothing. I have aln^ady 
 mentioned the existence of coal in some place- and I 
 think tliat copper might be found on the island, at least 
 1 saw indications of it on Moresby Island. But, notwith- 
 standing the evident trace of gold, coal and copper, to 
 this day neither of these minerals have been found in 
 sufHcient (juantity to warrant the expense of working 
 them. They are merely there as pointing to the exist- 
 ence of larger stores of their own kinds hidden some- 
 where in that wonderful architecture of that locality. 
 
 I>ut where ^ That is the o'reat enis^ina, which 
 
 remains unsolved. No feature of these islands, however, 
 surpassed in interest the natives, who are called Hydah 
 Indians. To me the study of man has always been more 
 attractive than anvthino- else I know of, and I have had 
 great o[)[)ortunities for practicing it under varied circum- 
 
> 
 
 IINDAH INDIAN CHIEFS. 
 
21« 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 I? I PI 
 
 hi!, 
 
 
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 \'i 
 
 r il! ^I'i 
 
 ittil: 
 
 I 
 
 stances, applying my observations to human beings of 
 tlitlerent races and nationalities. 
 
 The Hydah Indian is probably the finest savage I 
 have ever had the pleasure < '' meeting, and I shall, at 
 all events, always feel kindly towards liim, when I rec- 
 ollect, that he never showed any desire to scalp me or 
 in any other way molest me, which is a good deal more 
 than I can say for his brethren on the niaiidand. They 
 are not a handsome-featured people, and their women 
 lack graceful movements. Their hair and eyes are very 
 black; their teeth shining white and their complexions 
 of an olive hue. The averajje hight of the male is about 
 five feet seven inches, and both men and women have 
 finely developed chests and forearms, caused by their 
 incessant handling of the oars; for they are the best 
 boatmen I have ever met, and in saying this I refer to 
 both sexes. They have, indeed, an amphibious-like 
 nature, for they seem to be as much at home in the 
 water as they are ashore, and for feats of diving and 
 swinnning their equals are not easily found. 
 
 Their political institutions seemed to me to have nuich 
 in common with our own American ways. The man 
 who wishes to become chief has to pay dearly for the 
 honor. The payment consists of a feast, which often 
 lasts for days. Everybody is then invited and hand- 
 somely entertained, and blankets are distributed in great 
 numbers. It will be seen by this, that the idea of buy- 
 ing friends in a political campaign is by no means a 
 result of progressive American civilization, but rather a 
 return to savagedom. At all events, he who entertains 
 the handsomest; who has the most money to spend and 
 can make himself most popular through his means, wins 
 the contest, which is often most bitterly fought. These 
 feasts are called potlaich, a term which indicates the dis- 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 217 
 
 d- 
 
 sat 
 
 Ins 
 pd 
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 Ue 
 lis- 
 
 tinetion of certain things, and they are celebrated on 
 various occasions, such as tlie funeral of a deceased 
 nieniber of the tribe, the inauguration of a new house, 
 etc. 
 
 Strangely enough, when I first knew these people, 
 the nussionarics did not seem to have had much to do 
 with them, and wliat civilization they had appeared to 
 me to have been carried to them [)rhici[)ally through 
 traders and more in particular through the Hudson Bay 
 Com))any. They were very distinctly classified, not 
 only in castes but also in ditlerent tribes, which had evi- 
 dently been done for the purpose of preventing too close 
 intermarriage. Each one of these tribes, or families, 
 has its own crest, which is fre(piently engraved upon 
 their belongings. They are called ^o^emsand the natives, 
 belonging to the same totem, are forbidden to intermarry. 
 They have a number of these totems, known in their own 
 language as the eagle, the wolf, the crow and so on. 
 
 Their moral standard did not appear to be very high, 
 and they were in absolute ignorance of tlie sentiments 
 expressed in a good many of the ten commandments, or 
 otherwise they utterly disregarded them. As I have 
 said, they were not blood-thirsty, but they often forgot 
 to distinijfuish between our belono"in«xs and their own, and 
 were frequently persistent in insisting upon a potlatch, 
 or distribution of our efl'ects among tiieniselves. 
 
 As mechanics they far surpassed what I had then 
 seen of savaoje skill in. this direction, and their villasfes 
 were to me a most wonderful sight. They had learned 
 from the traders to build proper houses and constructed 
 some very comfortable habitations, which nearly always 
 presented the gable, to what I should call the front. 
 But tlieir poles were the most singular feature about 
 the villages. The proper meaning of these poles I have 
 
 m 
 
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 I 
 
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218 
 
 HUNTING FOR (iOLD 
 
 M! I 
 
 never learned, Imt tbev tower like hu*j^e eolunins from 
 tliirtv to seventy feet in hiiji'lit outside nianv of their 
 houses. They are covered from the base to the apex 
 with carvings of the most grotesque order. It nmst he 
 said, that in the art of carving these savages stand very 
 high, more es[)ecially considering the few and })rimitive 
 implements with which they do their work. I havt' 
 seen later in Alaska similar artistic work; but when foi- 
 the first time T beheld it at the villaije of Gold Harbor on 
 Maud Island, I was fairly taken aback. Not only are 
 their columns decorated with such carvings, but everv 
 other conceivable thing belonging to them, such as their 
 a.\ handles, oars, canoes, even spoons or drinking vessels, 
 and they appear to think nothing worth having which 
 has not been artistically carved. Their skill in building 
 canoes is very wonderful, and it is a question to me, 
 whether any other nation, savage or civilized, can })r()- 
 duce better boats for speed than these people, whose 
 principal boat building place is at Massett. 
 
 They have the same hankering for personal adorn- 
 ments as their Caucasian fellow-beings, and their women 
 more particularly do not give their fairer sisters any 
 odds, although, as a matter of course, they differ in 
 stvle and fashion. When I first came amonu; them, 
 European fashions were not much in vogue, although 
 later on, the blanket, breech cloth and leather coverings 
 have been discarded for cloaks made from the skin of the 
 sea otter, proper pants and dresses, and woven under- 
 wear, but in common with all savage races boots are the 
 last portion of civilized dress tliey will adopt. By way 
 of ornamentation, men and women tatooed themscKcs, 
 often profusely so, and here again the tote)ii>i frtMjuently 
 appear. Tlie women were quite clever at braiding and 
 manufactured a kind of hat, which they wore. They 
 
huntinCt I'OR gold 
 
 2r.> 
 
 also prepared certain i)aiiits, with whicn they covered 
 their faces, and for this purpose they used verniillion, 
 common cliarcoal, deer talh)vv and other inLjrecUents, 
 which shoved tliat the artist of the liare's foot and tlie 
 inventors of beauty powder and face enamel are by no 
 means original in their endeavors to hide nature's own 
 gift. For additional ornament both perforated the sep- 
 tum of the nose and inserted a silver ring, and the women 
 often decorated their fingers with a nund)er of rings and 
 used feathers, mother of pearl and a variety of shells for 
 further decoration. 
 
 Their social enjoyments were mostly confined to 
 dancing and masquerades and they exhibited great in- 
 genuity in their make-up. Their object seemed generally 
 to be to imitate the animals, which rove throuixh the 
 forests of their island home, but not only did they wear 
 on their own heads the heads of bears, deer, goats and 
 other animals, as well as masks, representing birds, but 
 they were also adepts at imitating on r^ed whistles the 
 shrill cry of manv of the wild forest birds. Thev also 
 wore other masks with moving eyes and lips and a most 
 hideous expression. On festive occasions they wore a 
 shawl of their own manufficture, which was of a [)artic- 
 ularly fine texture and made from the wool of the mount- 
 ain goat. In their hands they carried small hoops, to 
 which were attached a number of birds' beaks, and with 
 these they produced a noise resembling the sound of 
 castanets. While this diabolic concert is ofoinsj: <>ii the 
 dancers scatter the soft down of birds, until the air is 
 filled with them, and it may be easily understood that to 
 the stranojer, who for the first time witnesses this scene, 
 the eti'ect is i)erfectly bewildering. 
 
 Most characteristic of all is the so-called death-dance, 
 performed by one single individual, who runs through 
 
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 in 
 
 'I I 
 
 f 
 
220 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ' ! 
 
 the villai^e like a iiiadiium, vveariiij^ notliing but a loiii- 
 clotli. As he ruslies past the liouses, lie imitates the 
 hideous shriek of some wild beast, and, seizing an}' ani- 
 mal, which may happen in his way, he tears it to pieees 
 and devours a portion of the raw Hesh. 
 
 They do not appear to have any relii^ious cleas, out- 
 side that of the great spirit, whose aid they implore, 
 when emVjarking; in any undertaking, and his opposite, 
 which would correspond with the devil ot other beliefs. 
 They do not, however, have any graven images of either 
 of these powers, and I imagine their ideas of them are 
 somewhat vague. 
 
 They have at the same time, certain traditions or 
 legends, which are handed down to them as myths 
 from a remote antiquity. Thus they account tor the 
 creation of men by relating, that when the whole earth 
 was covered with water, a raven, tlie only living crea- 
 ture left, heard cries issuing from a shell lying on a 
 protruding rock, and upon examining it, discovered with- 
 in a woman and a child, whom he brought forth. He 
 married the woman, and thus became the father of the 
 whole Indian race. 
 
 Another singular myth, explains tlie origin of the 
 heavenly bodies. They say the raven also discovered 
 that a powerful chief owned the moon, which he had 
 hidden in some obscure place, that no one might find it. 
 The same chief had a daughter, who was the mother of 
 a young baby, and one day the raven did away with the 
 infant, and assuming its appearance, took its place. He 
 was petted and cared for, and when he disc»)vered where 
 the moon was kept, he begged so hard to be let in to 
 see it, that the chief ultimately took him into the cham- 
 ber. But no sooner was the supposed grandchild 
 there, than he again transformed himself to a raven, and 
 
HLTNTINT, I'OK OOLn 
 
 221 
 
 SGJziiiL^ tlie uiooii ill his beak, flew away with it to Naas 
 country. Here th(3 Indians l>ei»:<jfctl of him to lot them 
 see it, to wliicli he ultimately consented, and, in the 
 exhuherance of their joy, they threw it so hii^h into the 
 heavens that it broke into many pieces, forming' the 
 moon, the sun and all the stars. Both these legends 
 are very strikinu;-, I think, and, may be, some student of 
 mythology and revealed religions may see in them iuter- 
 e«ting corroborations of ideas, expressed in other reli- 
 gious systems. 
 
 The population of these islands was not very large 
 and was steadily decreasing. I think it was estimated 
 at about a thousand in the year 1883, but when I first 
 vis ted them there were certainly a good many more. 
 Still, the fact that they were decreasing was made 
 quite manifest by the presence of a good many deserted 
 villages in the different parts of the group, and there 
 were laru'e burial ])laces with indications of funerals 
 
 O J. 
 
 enough to show that the race had been far more numer- 
 ous than when I knew it first. * 
 
 I have dwelt upon these people at some length, 
 because they greatly attracted me, and, however 
 imperfect my account, it may still have some interest to 
 my readers. 
 
11^ 
 
 i! II! 
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 til 'i ! 
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 mil I 
 
 CHAPTEll 111. 
 
 Fort Simpson — On the River Skeona — "Pioiioor H. B. C." — A 
 Teniptinfjf Oft'er — Locatin*,'' a Push Wlutt u (rold Band J)i(l 
 — Keel Paint — i^ou ./o*//'- Frank's Curly Hair -Cliiof Sal- 
 tow-tow -White Men in tlio WildernesH — Days of Privation 
 A Poor Craft- Head Factor, Peter O^'den -A California 
 ]\Ionto Bank in Victoria. 
 
 Ill the early part of September 1859 I was at Fort 
 Siin{)Son, ready to explore the river Skeena and pene- 
 trate a.s far as Fort Fraser, at the same time makinof a 
 survey of the country witli a view to finding a pass, as 
 mentioned, for the Great Canadian and Pacific Railroad 
 Route. My company consisted of two white men, Wil- 
 liam Manning, an Englishman, and Frank Choteau, a 
 French Canadian, besides two Indians. 
 
 Fort Simpson was at that time a post of some impor- 
 tance. It is situated on Chatham Sound in the extreme 
 ft 
 
 northwest corner of British Columbia, adjacent to what 
 were then Russian Possessions. Owing to its natural lo- 
 cation and surroundings, it enjoyed a large and lucra- 
 tive trade. It possessed an excellent harbor, the neigh- 
 boring waters abounded in fish and the land in wild ani- 
 mals, thus niakino: it the liuntino^ oround of a number of 
 large and thrifty tribes. It was the mart for all the 
 various northern Indians and was frequented, not only 
 by those of the mainland, but by a number coming 
 across from Queen Charlotte Islands, and Alaska. The 
 Fort was named after Sir George Simpson, a former 
 Governor of the Company; and an extensive trade had 
 been established between it and Victoria, steamers com- 
 ing up from the latter place loaded with articles adapt- 
 
 222 
 
HlNTINd FOK COI.I) 
 
 223 
 
 ed for tlie Iiidiiui trade, and rctundiii^ with such jioods 
 as luid hot'ii ohtaified in uxchan^'o. 
 
 On the jtli of Si'pt(3niber I set out on my expedition 
 witii my little party. At our Hrst camp we made the 
 ac(|uaintaii<e of the Indians of these parts, who made 
 haste to tell us, that they were very honest people, and 
 demonstrated tins by n^ettini; away with my coat, while 
 I was asleep. We made a trip up a small stream, called 
 by the natives Scenatoys, and here the Indians showed 
 us some crystalized quartz, in one piece of whicli I 
 detected ijold. This was the first of its kind, I had 
 seen in this locality, but, although I was shown a gran- 
 ite slide, from where the piece was alleged to have come, 
 I could not find anything like a payable vein. We after- 
 wards explored a small river, called the Foes, and then 
 took to the Skeena again, making our way up the river, 
 where the current was grailually getting stronger and 
 stronger, and it took us all our time and strength to j)ull 
 the canoe against it. The country looked auriferous, 
 but, when we tried prospecting, we could only raise a 
 few specks to the pan. We })assed the village called 
 Kitchumsala, and I went ahead of the party in a small 
 canoe, only accompanied by an Indian. We came past 
 the junction of the river Chindvootch, on the southwest 
 side of which we found lead at the Plumbairo mouiktain, 
 and here my companion pointed out to me a tree, on 
 which had been carved many years ago the legend: 
 "Pioneer H. B. C." I was informed that this had 
 been done by Mr. John Work, one of the company's offi- 
 cers, and the manner in which the letters bulged from 
 the bark, testified, that many years had elapsed since this 
 daring pioneer had visited the locality. 
 
 We were now approaching the village of Kittcoonra. 
 The land became more level, and the mountains receded 
 
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 '224 
 
 HUNTING FOK C.OI.n 
 
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 tVoiii the river l)aiik, wliilo fertile Hats extended tor tour 
 or five miles on each side of the river. 'I'his isdceidedly 
 line latinin*^ huid. and the Indians hcri' pick i)erries and 
 diy tlu'in for wintei- supply. Wc were takinj;- a rest on 
 tlu! rivi'r l)ank, when my Indian companions snddeidy 
 oavc a cry of alarm, and lookintjj up I pcicnved, tlnit a 
 whole hand of natives, inhabitants of the vilhiL^e, were 
 iunnin<^ down towards us, I'videntlv with no friendly in- 
 tent; for they were all armed and shouting- furiously, and 
 behind them came the women and children, ready to 
 carry away the i)lunder after the fray. In a case of 
 that kind the exhibition of utter inditi'erence is the only 
 satejjjuard, as the least siu^n of fear would mean death by 
 the Indians' bullets. So I motioned my men to lie down 
 on the ground and remain (juiet, while I tilled my pipe 
 and assumed an appearance of supreme ease. My tae- 
 ties were rewarded with the desired result. The Indians, 
 seeing no reason for hostility, (juieted down, and some 
 of the women came up close to me with the native 
 inquisitiveness of their sex. To one of them I jji'ave a 
 needle, but this article, small as it was, seemed to please 
 them all so much, that everybody came up for one, the 
 men laying down their weapons to get a needle. But I 
 was pleasantly surprised to learn these people's ideas of 
 reciprocity, for they at once dispatched some of the 
 young men to their village for venison, beaver and bear 
 meat, all cooked and ready for eating, and we were all 
 invited to sit down with them and feast. More tlian 
 this, when we showed signs of departing they insisted 
 upon us sta^-ing with them. They told me tliey would 
 build us a house, be friends witli us, give us all the land 
 we wanted, and help us cultivate potatoes; but we had to 
 refuse their profuse hospitality and push on up the 
 river. 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 225 
 
 Arrived at the forks of the Skeena (called by the 
 Indians Kittaniaks, afterwards chaii»^ed to Hazeton) we 
 left the river and, walking overland, made for the Indian 
 village of AguUgath. The country we traveled througii 
 was particularly pleasing, being especially well adapted 
 for agricultural purposes. We dined at the village, 
 havinir secured some fish from the natives in trade for 
 tobacco and then crossed the river on an Indian suspen- 
 sion bridge, continuing our journey along a well-beaten 
 trail. The timber consisted principally of small hard- 
 wood and some soft wood trees, far easier to clear than 
 the tall pines. The land was rolling and well watered 
 by little streams that flowed from the distant hills, and 
 there were many indications of coal. Far away to the 
 south we saw the snow and glaciers on towering mount- 
 ains, which are white-capped all the year round, and 
 down by the river bank the growth of cottonwood and 
 birch pleasantly varied the scenery, which was indeed 
 exceedingly inviting. In this locality, finding the sur- 
 roundings advantageous I put up the following: 
 
 "Notice — September 22, 1859. — I have this day loca- 
 ted and claimed this pass, as the route of the Great Cana- 
 dian and Pacific Railroad. William Downie." 
 
 We were now makingc for Naas Glee and bejyan to rec- 
 ognize, that we were on the down grade. In fact, we 
 had really succeeded in coming through the only pass 
 from Agullgath, which is suitable for a road. As we 
 were traveling along here, we saw a wild goat, and one of 
 my Indians made chase up the mountain for it, but, 
 meeting with a company of three bears, he suddenly re- 
 membered that discretion is the better part of valor and 
 returned express speed. As we neared the village of 
 Naas Glee, we fired our pistols in the air. The effect 
 might be likened to what might be produced by 
 
220 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 pokiiii^ with a stick in an aut liill. In a moment we 
 were surrounded by all the braves in the settlement. 
 They came rushing towards us armed with guns and 
 loiiu bowie knives, but seeing that we manifested no 
 fear they quieted down. I do not wish my readers to 
 understand, that I consider myself a more courageous 
 man than many others, although at the same time I have 
 had plenty of opportunity of proving that I possess 
 more personal courage than a good many. I am not 
 prepared to say, that this is always an advantage, for 
 while at times it helps to carry a man through great 
 perils and hardships; the same man would probably 
 have had a more comfortable life, minus this courage, 
 which often leads him into most trying circumstances, 
 in dealing with the Indians, I had soon perceived that 
 the only way of getting along with them, was to show 
 the utmost composure at tlie first meeting, and, while 
 I adopted this as a rule and always succeeded in appear- 
 ing calm, I am not prepared to say, that I always felt 
 correspondingly at ease. Yet, I must admit, that as I 
 now look back upon my many meetings with the red- 
 skins, and consider how many of my friends have fpred 
 among them I feel thankful that my scalp is still intact. 
 On this expedition I wore round my hat a gold band, 
 and I had frequently reason to congratulate myself upon 
 this fact, for it seemed to inspire the Indians with a good 
 deal of respect, evidently impressing them with the idea 
 that I was a great chief On the present occasion they 
 soon became very friendly, and their Tyhee, or chief, 
 asked me to his house His name was Tal-tow-tow or 
 Norra, they called him by both names, and I gave him 
 what small articles I could spare. But my greatest 
 stroke in the direction of making myself popular in this 
 colony was made, when I devided three yeast cans. 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 227 
 
 filled with red paint, among the women and children. 
 Never was female vanity more satisfied, than when our 
 new lady friends embellished their features with large 
 streaks of red paint, and I doubt whether any belle of 
 fashionable society could think herself more attractive, 
 after using her co!?metics, than did these savages, after 
 daubing themselves with the paint. 
 
 We discovered that this villasfe was situated on the 
 Skeena, and thus, having left this river five days ago, we 
 had now struck it again higher up. We also here obser- 
 ved traces of French influence for the first time, for the 
 Indians hailed us with the words honjour; but later on 
 we discovered that all through these regions many 
 French words were used by the Indians as a result of 
 their intercourse with French traders. 
 
 We were well entertained by the natives who feasted 
 us in one of their ln)uses, and I was given the seat of 
 honor with my white companions next to me. The 
 women seemed much amused at Frank's hair, which was 
 very curly — a fact that evidently puzzled them a good 
 deal, as the Indians' hair is always straight. They 
 would steal up from behind and pull the hairs out of his 
 head. Then they would hold it out straight between 
 both hands and, letting go at one end, appeared much 
 surprised when the hair curled up again. By and by 
 Frank's head began to get sore, and he objected to the 
 sport. "Never mind, Frank," I said, trying to soothe 
 his ruffled temper, "It is only female curiosity." 
 
 "Female curiosity or not," grumbled Frank, "I don't 
 want them to pluck all the hairs out of my head, as if I 
 was some bird being prepared for cooking — oh! Ther 
 let go, you : " 
 
 And Frank brushed off a woman's hand, which was 
 trying to rob him of another lock. 
 
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 228 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 Naas Glee is a center, where all the upcountry Indians 
 meet at certain seasons. The head factor of Fort St. 
 James sends a boat down here at certain times, and a 
 large trade in dried fish and other articles is carried on. 
 I began to fear, that I should not be able to reach the 
 Fraser,as I was told that it was about ten days' journey 
 away from where we were, and the Indians were gradu- 
 ally robbing me of all I had to depend upon for further 
 trade with the natives. I realized that I had to get out 
 as soon as possible, and, after some persuasions, I 
 succeeded in getting Tal-tow-tow to go with me. He 
 provided a canoe and some dried fish, and we started up 
 the river, exceedingly glad to leave our hosts, whose 
 hospitality had been well counterbalanced by the per- 
 sistency with which they had wrung from us a great 
 many things, both necessaries and trading articles. 
 About ten miles up the river we passed the village 
 Whatatt, and above this we came to Babine Lake, 
 traveling now through exceptionally fine country. 
 
 It was just about daylight the next morning, and I 
 had crawled out of my blanket, wdien to my surprise I 
 saw^ a boat approaching, filled with Europeans. The 
 man at the helm turned out to be a Mr. Gavin Hamilton, 
 and his crew^ were Canadians. He came from Fort St. 
 James and was on his way to Naas Glee for dried fish, 
 furs, etc. He was very much surprised to see us and 
 told me that he had never heard of any other white man 
 succeeding in traveling over the route w^e had come by. 
 He insisted upon taking my Indian chief back with him, 
 as he said he could do nothing at Naas Glee without 
 him and would most likely be robbed of all he had in 
 place of making trade, and when I remonstrated with 
 him and told him, that I could not go on without a 
 guide not knowing the way, he smiled and said, that a 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 
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 man, who had been ahle to visit Naas Glee as a strantrer 
 and come out as well as I had done, might go anywhere. 
 He had no rations to spare us but finally arranged that 
 we should take Tal -tow-tow's canoe, and that the chief 
 should return with him, and he gave us a letter for Mr. 
 Peter Ogden, in charge of Fort St. James, who was the 
 same gentleman after whom the city of Ogden in Utah 
 has been named. 
 
 I had sent both my Indians with Mr. Hamilton, and 
 it proved a fortunate thing for us. We were supposed 
 to be only five days' journey from Fort St. James, and 
 on our first day's sail we made Fort Killman, which at 
 that period was unoccupied. It reared its lofty palisa- 
 insc in the silent wilderness with not a sound issuinof 
 from behind the closed doors. There was sometliino; 
 uncanny about the lonely little fort, and we left it 
 behind without regret. According to Mr. Hamilton we 
 had now another four days' journey before us, but we 
 soon realized, that we could not cover the distance in 
 that time. Babine Lake is about one hundred miles 
 long, and, whenever we could do so, we used our blank- 
 ets as sails. The scenery along the shore was very 
 pleasmg, and, under more favorable circumstances, we 
 could have enjoyed the trip very much, but rations were 
 getting low and we had been out five days, when we 
 reached the head of the lake and we took the trail for 
 the next watershed. Lake Stewart. So we abandoned 
 our canoes and made our way through the forest. Here, 
 for the first time on our journey, did we see the track of 
 a wagon, but, strange to say, it was over ten years since 
 the ruts were furrowed in the soil. Previous to that 
 time the Company had a wagon road to Lake Babine, 
 but it was then abandoned. We packed our traps along 
 the trail and came upon a camp at a small lake, where 
 
HUNTING FUR GOLD 
 
 231 
 
 an Indian family was camping and hunting. Tliey 
 seemod much surprised at our appoarace, and in ex- 
 change for some tobacco and paint, gave us a few dried 
 fish, and helped us carry our pack to Stewart Lake, 
 which was not far distant. Nevertheless the assistance 
 was very welcome, for we had had so little to eat for a 
 day or two, that the eifect of privation began to tell 
 upon us. 
 
 Arrived at Stewart Lake we looked in vain for a 
 canoe, which we expected to find there. Things 
 were beginning to look ugly. Fort St. James was away 
 at the other end of the lake, but we could not possibly 
 walk that distance in our reduced condition, and we sat 
 down very much after the fashion of McCawber, "wait- 
 ing for something to turn up." Driven by hunger and 
 despondency, for I did not expect to get any more pro- 
 visions till we reached Fort St. James, I attempted to 
 eat grass in order to save our own scanty supply, but it 
 would not go down, and the experiment demonstrated 
 to me, that Nebuchadnezzar must have had pretty hard 
 times of it, when he took to bovine fare. 
 
 At last we found a very old canoe. It was split from 
 stem to stern and apparently of no use at all, but neces- 
 sity is the mother of invention, and we lashed a drift 
 log to each side of it, hoping by this contrivance and in- 
 cessant balino; to be able to travel down the lake. After 
 experiencing considerable difficulty in making our frail 
 craft answer its purpose, we succeeded in getting down 
 about five miles, when we suddenly shipped a sea, that 
 nearly swamped us, but just in the nick of time we per- 
 ceived an Indian fishing close under the shore. We 
 hailed him, and he at once came to our rescue and 
 brought us safe to his camp, where we were fed on fresh 
 
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 2.12 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 trout and a meal, the enjoyment of which is yet fresh 
 in my memory. 
 
 Once more we succeeded in makint; friends of our 
 Indian hosts. They did not understand nmcli English 
 but could speak a little French, and Frank, who was a 
 Canadian and could converse in that language, piloted 
 us through this difficulty and arranged with the Indian 
 that he should take us to Fort St. James, receivinsr 
 as remuneration one blanket. It is strange, how 
 soon a man forgets his troubles. We had now plenty 
 to eat and a chance soon to get to Fort St. James, and 
 all our troubles seemed to be at an end. We ran down 
 the coast before a fair wind, going ashore when it 
 became too rough. The scenery gradually changed, 
 and towards the lower end of the lake the country 
 became more rocky and barren looking, while the air 
 became colder, and we experienced a slight fall of snow. 
 
 On the 9th of October we arrived at Fort .St. James, 
 just eleven days after parting with Mr. Hamilton, For 
 four consecutive days we had had nothing to eat, and it 
 had several times during the whole trip appeared to me 
 as if our chances of reaching our destination were very 
 slim. But now we were in clover. Mr. Oixden received 
 us very kindly, and we soon recovered from our hard- 
 ships. 
 
 After a two days' sojourn we left m company with 
 Mr. Oixden. He was (joinyj to Fort Fraser, but we had 
 determined to go to Fort George and from there to Fort 
 Alexandria, and at the former place we parted company 
 W'ith the genial head factor, who had treated us so kind- 
 ly. Fort Alexandria, or as it is generally called, Alex- 
 ander, is an interesting place It is called after the 
 famous explorer and traveler. Sir Alexander McKenzie, 
 and I believe it is the oldest fort of all, being founded 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 233 
 
 in 1793. It was, when I visited it, a fort of niuch 
 importance. The surrounding country was open and 
 picturesque and afforded splendid hunting ground. 
 Hence the Indians congregated here, and the Company 
 did a large amount of trading in this neighborhood, 
 while at the same time the post served as a depot for 
 receiving produce, gathered in other distant districts. 
 
 We now made down the river and soon found ourselves 
 in a mining region. At several places we passed mining 
 camps, but I generally found the men as taciturn as 
 they had appeared to me when I made my debut on the 
 Californian gold fields. One of the few places, where 
 we met with a welcome, was in a camp belonging to a 
 Mr. Kirk and his partner Mr. Nichol. They were not 
 working when we arrived there, because the ground was 
 frozen; but they had been doing pretty well on their 
 claim, averaging from three to four ounces a day. They 
 were very pleased to see us, and shared with us what 
 cheer they had, andin their agreeable company I dreamed 
 myself back again to California in the early days and 
 thought of many pleasant scenes under similar conditions. 
 
 There was now a good deal of ice on the river. It 
 came drifting in floes and often menaced our safety, but 
 we pushed on and soon reached the mouth of the 
 Quesnelle river. There was quite an accumulation of 
 men here. New diiri^insfs had been struck, and those on 
 the ground had come to winter, so as to be ready at the 
 first dawn of spring 
 
 We stayed here for several days to gather all possible 
 information about the place and ascertained that some 
 good gold had been already found here, while hopes 
 were bright in anticipation of coming revelation, when 
 spring should return. We also met several Californians 
 here, who gave us a royal reception and spoke of old 
 
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 234 
 
 HUNTINO FOR CVOLD 
 
 days. At Big Creek we al)aiKlonod our canoe and took 
 the trail for Haskells. Here I met my old ])artner from 
 California, Alexander McDoiiald, who was minini^ iu 
 this neitjhborhood, and I went to work with him for 
 awhile, but the weather was gcttini^ very cold and the 
 g^round hard, and I concluded to make my way hack to 
 Victoria, where I arrived at the close of November. 
 
 I had been away for nearly three months and certainly 
 seen a great deal of the country. His Excellency, 
 Governor Douglas received my report very favorably 
 and ordered my expenses paid, which was done accord- 
 ingly. 
 
 Hi 
 
 1 
 
 111: 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Surveying the Inlets — Looking for a Wagon Road to the Fraser 
 — Jarvis Inlet — An Awful Ravine — Desolation Sound — All 
 by Myself — The Bears Came Rushing Down — The Kle-ua- 
 Kleue River — Bella Coola — Dean Canal — A Land Boom — 
 False Reports — ]Mr, Tovalloit Prevaricates — Spearing Salmon 
 Indians from Fort Fraser — After Gold on the Nasse. 
 
 Having given an account of my trip in company with 
 Mr. McKay, and my subsequent journey through the 
 country to Fort James, I now come to my exph)ration of 
 Jarvis Inlet, which is situated about thirtv miles west of 
 Howe Sound. It will be remembered that Governor 
 Douglas, who by this time was known as Sir James 
 Douglas, had an idea that it would be possible to find a 
 shorter and easier ronte to the Upper Fraser than the 
 one which we had pointed out to him, via Howe Sound 
 and the Silooet Lake, and with a view to ascertaining 
 whether such a possibility did exist, I traveled along the 
 coast making a survey of the various inlets. 
 
 I found Jarvis Inlet piercing the coast line to a depth 
 of about sixty miles, stretching inland in a northeasterly 
 direction. There was every appearance of our finding a 
 pass through the mountains here. At the entrance to 
 the inlet we met several Bridge River Indians, and with 
 them for our guides, penetrated to the head, and aftei' 
 two days' hard journeying we found ourselves in a can- 
 yon entirely closed in by steep mountains. Never in my 
 life have I beheld such a scene as presented itself to our 
 wondering gaze in this solitude. We were completely 
 shut in by this wild nature. On either hand, lofty 
 mountains reared their precipitous sides far above us 
 
 235 
 
 1 
 
23G 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 i;li n 
 
 I i 
 
 pointing toward the leaden overcast sky, and looking like 
 threatening giants guarding the entrance to some land 
 of mystery. Not a vestige of vegetation; not a brush 
 on the bare, solenm-looking rocks as they cast their 
 gloomy shadow over the ravine below, making us feel 
 like prisoners behind barred and bolted gates. Ahead 
 ot us lay a field of unsurmountable glaciers, forming a 
 barrier to any further progress, and giving to the situa- 
 tion additional awe and errandeur. In the loneliness of 
 nature, where the great architect has deprived her of the 
 charms which in other places adorn her, I have always 
 found something wonderfully impressive, far exceeding 
 in force, the enthusiasm called forth by the smiling and 
 pleasing scenery. It has always appeared to me in this 
 solemn situation as if I stood face to face with the angry 
 Jehovah, who stretched forth his hand to remind human 
 beings of their utter insiijnificance. 
 
 Such was the impression I received in this instance, 
 as I found myself absolutely enclosed in the ravine which 
 had just one opening for ingress and egress alike. When 
 I asked the Indians how they proposed for us to proceed 
 any further, they said that we should have to ascend the 
 glaciers in the best way we could, and pull one another 
 up by ropes. "And the wagons — .'* " I asked. " Pull 
 them up after you! " came the reply. It was very evi- 
 dent that this settled all prospects of making a wagon 
 road by this route, when the only way was to climb gla- 
 ciers and pull the vehicles up afterwards, and I therefore 
 gave up all ideas of satisfying gubernatorial expectations 
 on this point. We camped here for the night, and spent 
 a wretched tmie waiting; for dawn to break. The rain 
 came down in torrents, falling over the steep sides of the 
 mountains in cascades and filling the ravine, so to speak. 
 Our traps — even our Drovisions — were carried away, and 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 237 
 
 we had to stand up most of tin- night holding on to our 
 blankets and utensils, for fear of seeing them carried 
 away by the waters and the violent gusts of wind that 
 came down upon us — the sweeping breath of angry 
 elements. 
 
 In March, 1859, I made my first inspection of Deso- 
 lation Sound, situated about sixty miles west of Jarvis' 
 Inlet. This time I was the only white man in the com- 
 pany and was accompanied by a party of Indians. We 
 went in a canoe up through the channel between the 
 mainland and Redonda Island, and rounding Bret- 
 tell Point and Snout Point, made our way into 
 Toba Inlet. We penetrated to the head of this 
 water, and then proceeded to ascend the river 
 which has its mouth here. The land on either side 
 of this stream we found to be low, sandy and over- 
 flowed, but some distance from the mouth the moutains 
 began to rise to considerable altitudes. It was not pos- 
 sible to proceed in the canoe more than four or five 
 miles from the Inlet, and we reconnoitered the land on 
 foot. I found the mountains on the western shore to be 
 higher than those opposite. On the eastern side there 
 was an Indian trail crossing to Jarvis' Inlet, but the 
 ridge on the western side could only be traversed by 
 goats and bears, of which there seemed to be a great 
 many. The bears came tearing down the mountain- 
 side, to welcome us, but we did not stop to shake hands, 
 preferring to wave them our adieu from the canoe. I 
 thought it possible to penetrate from here to Bridge 
 River, but the Indians told me it would take at least a 
 month to reach a group of small lakes where that stream 
 takes its rise. 
 
 It was very evident to me that my purpose of mak- 
 ing a wagon road by this route could not be accom- 
 
2:}H 
 
 Hl'NTINC. FOR (lOI.I) 
 
 I 
 
 jilislicd, iuul r tlioi'i't'or*' iH'cpaitMl to return. I did a lit- 
 tle prosjH'ctiiii;' first, and caiiK' upon sluti', (jnartz and 
 indications of ('o|)[)er, but nothinij;- ol' any yi-cat Kii.nnli- 
 cancc, and as a nienicnto of my visit, I carvel my iiamu 
 U}M»u a tree and departed tVom tiicse ([uaitcrs. 
 
 The next inlet upon tiiis coast, is Hutu lidct Of 
 tliis place, and my experience of it, I will .si)eak later, 
 and lueanwhilo pass on to the next inlet, known us 
 Loborouujli Inlet. It is situated about twenty miles 
 west of Bute, and is surrounded by towerinj^" mount- 
 ains, while glaciers aboundetl in these regions. During 
 the suiDHier mouths, the Indians from the surrouniling 
 tribes, comc! down here and tisli, but none of theui stay 
 to winter in this locality. The place is wild and inac- 
 cessible, and when the winter gales sweep over it, and 
 the snow lies on the mountains, it offers but a very unin- 
 vitiuL'' abode for human beinu^s. There are no settled 
 tribes of Indians in this region, and when the summer 
 season is at end, the whole country assumes an appear- 
 ance of utter desolation and loneliness. I could not find 
 any chances in this locality of building a wagon road, 
 and once more turned my steps westward. 
 
 The reader who is unfamiliar with the map of British 
 Columbia, by examining it for a moment, will easily fol- 
 low ]' '^ explorations of the various inlets, as they were 
 un'^ jn, one after the other; and will also readily 
 
 t'ti the anxiety and vigor with which these explo- 
 
 . lons were being pushed, for the sole purpose t)f afford- 
 inir li'reater traveling; facilities for the miners, who, com- 
 ing from Victoria, made the upper Fraser their destina- 
 tion. At that time, when the country had been but lit- 
 tle explored, and the exact course of the Fraser was but 
 imperfectly known, it was naturally to be supposed that 
 there would be some way of making a cross-country 
 
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 240 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 road to the gold fields, by taking advantage of the riv- 
 ers and lakes, which in so many places afforded excellent 
 means of traveling. Moreover, the natives had shown 
 the invaders how to utilize the sheets of water which 
 intersected their home in so many places. The idea of 
 portages originated with them, and the canoes were 
 easily carried along the trail leading from one lake to 
 the other. 
 
 I must admit that, in common with many others, I 
 had lontr e"*tertained the idea of such a travelinof route. 
 I had furinermore as an old miner taken much pleasure 
 in looking for the possibility of finding one, and in order 
 to realize this, had freely spent my money so far in vain 
 endeavors to strike a trail that would answer the pur- 
 pose. Having disposed of Laborough and found nothing 
 there to work upon, I next turned my attention to 
 Knisfht's Inlet. 
 
 This is one of the deepest and most formidable inlets 
 on the coast. It runs east from Gilford Island for 
 many miles and then turns north running in that direc- 
 tion, with a few curves, to its head, where the Kle-na- 
 Klene Kiver falls into it. At this point the land is open 
 as far as the eye can reach, and we saw plenty of upland 
 Indians, who came down here to trade for grease. I 
 made two trips to the head of this inlet, but could not 
 discover anything which would warrant a wagon road 
 toward the Eraser. The natives, with whom I here 
 came in contact, gave me some information about the 
 intirior. They said that it took one month and a half 
 to travel to their country, which must therefore have 
 been situated quite a distance away, but at the same 
 time they had never heard of the Fraser river nor of the 
 gold land. This made me think that these Indians 
 lived considerably to the west of Fraser River, for my 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 241 
 
 experience was that Indians living as far from the Fraser 
 as Lillooet, knew all about the river, and the gold to be 
 found there. More than this; an Indian on my trip 
 through the Babine Lake district had told me how on 
 the Fraser he had met the white men, and received a 
 pair of pants in exchange for a salmon. The natives I 
 met at KniMit's Inlet ixave me nmch information about 
 the interior, and I had once more to abandon the idea 
 of finding a starting point on the coast for the desired 
 route. 
 
 My next expedition went to Bella Coola. This river, 
 which rushes down from the Cascade Mountains, falls 
 into the sea through Burke Channel, inside which the 
 South Bentinck and North Bentinck Arm spread into 
 the surrounding lowland. The North Arm may be 
 called the inoutli of the river, while the South Bentinck 
 stops more abruptly. The entrance to the interior 
 therefore i^oes throuo;h the North Bentinck, but it was 
 soon found inpracticable to establish a wagon road by 
 this route. The country further up the river becomes 
 mountainous, and unfit for any such purpose as ours, and 
 I had to give it up. But I was not the only one who had 
 suffered defeat in this respect, as regards Bella Coola. 
 Two gentlmen, Messrs. Harrison and Goolidge, spent 
 several months in attempting to penetrate from the 
 North Branch to the Fraser, but failed in their attempts, 
 although they were particularly well equipped for the 
 undertaking. 
 
 Separated from Burke Channel by a thin strip of land 
 is Dean Canal, being the mouth of Dean, or Salmon 
 River. My next expedition went up this inlet, and 
 although I followed the river for quite a distance, I 
 failed to find a suitable road. Toward the fall of every 
 year the natives come down from New Caledonia to 
 
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 242 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 trade here and return again on snow-shoes, but just as 
 surely as the flowers awake in the spring, these men 
 come back with the returning season to trade. I had 
 expected to see some of the Chilcotin Indians here, but 
 was disappointed. At the time when I paid my visit to 
 Dean Canal, there was quite an excitement in the real 
 estate offices in Victoria, owing to the fact that a boom 
 had been started in a quiet way in regard to the land on 
 Dean Creek. It was predicted that land, bought in 
 tlii" district;, would soon increase many fold in value, and 
 tha^ a better townsite could not be found. Consequently 
 about one thousand acres were soon taken up by the 
 knowing ones of Victoria, and expectations ran high. 
 
 I should have thought they might just as w^U have 
 speculated in making a townsite on the sides of Mount 
 Baker or Mount Hamilton, as at the head of any of the 
 inlets that I frequented in my search for a wagon road, 
 and I would not personally have given ten dollars for the 
 whole area. 
 
 In connection with this I am put in mind of some of 
 the tricks practiced for the purpose of inducing people 
 to buy land in this locality. A Mr. Tovalloit, who was 
 interested in the scheme, had the audacity to spread the 
 report that he came on horseback from Fort Alexandria, 
 on the Fraser River, to Dean Canal in seven days. I 
 was told exactly where he claimed to have reached the 
 water, and examined the place minutely, with the result 
 that I doubted very much the truth of the story. Mr. 
 Tovalloit also claimed to have come by Chilcotin Lake, 
 but I learned afterwards from friends of mine who had 
 been of the party, that this was not so. They left for 
 Alexandria to go to the lake, but on the third day out 
 they returned again, and up to that time Mr. Tovalloit 
 had never seen it. This will show how easily people 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 243 
 
 r. 
 
 ad 
 
 oit 
 
 may be deceived in regard to location of country, tlie 
 geography of which they know nothing about. Had it 
 been possible to establish a seven-days communication 
 between the coast and Fort Alexandria at this place, 
 land would certainly have been of great value; but the 
 possibility was entirely problematic. Mr. Tovalloit was a 
 prevaricator of the truth, to use a polite term; and there 
 was absolutely no reason to think that a wagon road 
 would ever be built between the two points. 
 
 I next directed my attention towards Kitlobe River. 
 In reference to this, too, gross misrepresentations had 
 been published, and among other things it had been des- 
 cribed as navigable. I soon discovered that it was not. 
 The inlet stretches far inland, until the Kitlobe River 
 falls into it, the latter springing somewhere in the south- 
 eastern corner of the Chilicotin plateau. But this river 
 was far from being navigable as reported. On the 
 contrary, I found it one of the most difficult rivers on 
 the coast to ascend. The country was wild, in some 
 places almost impassable, and while it was shown on the 
 maps as nearly reaching to the Chilcotin, such was by 
 no means the case. I had the satisfaction, through the 
 press of Victoria, of drawing the attention of the public 
 to these misstatements, and thus corrected a serious 
 error in the minds of speculators in the Fraser river 
 route, which I did not for one moment believe could be 
 established here. 
 
 During^ the fishing; season the Indians on the Kitlobe 
 River sit perched upon the rocks and spear the fish. 
 With marvelous aim they throw the weapon from con- 
 siderable liights, and pierce the beautiful salmon far 
 below. The Indians from New Caledonia cross this riv- 
 er in making their annual trips to Dean Canal 
 
 At the head of Kildalah Inlet is the river of the same 
 
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 244 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 name. It rushes forth between steep mountain verges, 
 and affords but a poor and dangerous navigation. I 
 took much interest in conversingr with the natives here. 
 Some of them told me that they had come all the way 
 from Fort Fraser, and described the country on the oth- 
 er side of the range, as level and easy to travel. The 
 distance between this point and Fort Fraser is quite 
 considerable, and they must have come by the way of 
 the Fraser Lake, the French Lake, and across the Chil- 
 cotin plateau. 
 
 The Kitimax River comes from the north, running 
 almost at a ri^ht anLfle to the Kildalah. It is a fine 
 largo river, which runs through an open valley that 
 stretched its verdant pastures towards the Skeena, and 
 as we traveled up the stream, we were much impressed 
 by the surrounding country. The Indians here told us 
 that it was only a matter of four days to reach the 
 Skeena, and we made that river in the time stated. 
 
 Of my exploration on the Skeena I have already 
 spoken. Myself and two companions were in reality the 
 first white men who croj-sod from the coast to the Fraser 
 River, but Mr. Alfred Waddington, v."ho was jealous of 
 my successful explorations of that part of British Colum- 
 bia, took pains on several occasions to ignore the fact 
 that I was the one who led the first expedition, and 
 wrote about the route in such a manner as to make it 
 appear as if indeed he was the first to penetrate the 
 previously unknown country. However, I was quite 
 willinsjc that he should induloje in a little imao-ination on 
 this point; I only wished that he should as well have 
 some of the days of hunger and cold, with which we paid 
 for the honor of being the pioneer explorers of this route. 
 
 I went up the river Nasse about one hundred miles. 
 My expedition on this.streani was undertaken principally 
 
 
HUNTINO FOR GOLD 
 
 245 
 
 for tliG purpose of prospecting, as I luul been told that 
 there was plenty of gold here. I spent quite a time on 
 the river, making careful examinations of the various 
 localities but not with any satisfactory results. There 
 was undoubtedly traces of gold in many places, and in 
 some the metal might be found in small quantities; but 
 I could not find any place wliere it would pay over two 
 dollars a day, and therefore it was not worth while 
 working. Erom my experience, and examination of the 
 Pacific Coast, I judge that from Washington Territory 
 to Alaska, all along the coast of British Columbia, there 
 are no placer di 'Agings, which are worth working, whereas 
 it appears to me that some of the baser metals may be 
 work. 1 to advantage. 
 
 From what has already been written it nmst be })rctty 
 evident that there was a stron^r desire to establish an 
 outlet from the interior countrv, somewhere on the 
 coast, and it will be also seen that I was not the only 
 one who had attempted to locate such a station. Indeed, 
 at the time I refer to, there were any amount of explorers 
 in the field, but a good many of them did not amount to 
 much. They would receive so nmch money for going 
 out to look for a certain pass, and that would be the 
 last heard of them. 
 
 I have hitherto spoken of such undertakings as aimed 
 at locating a pass for a wagon road, but the idea had also 
 become dominant that it would be possible to find, some- 
 where in the mountains, a pass that would allow of a rail- 
 road beino; brouijht down to the coast; and Bute Inlet 
 was the favorite locality, where it was thought possible 
 to realize this project. Bute Inlet goes far into the 
 land, and at its extreme head the Homalko River falls 
 into its waters, running almost due south, while the 
 Southgate River joins the inlet on the eastern shore, a 
 
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 HUNTINO FOR OdLD 
 
 little further down. The mountains beliind are wild nnd 
 precipitous, the river is ditticult to navigate, in some 
 places rendering portage necessary, and at others being 
 HUed with drift wood, thus constantly menacing the 
 frail crafts that come up here; the canoes of the natives 
 being the oidy possible conveyance upon this swiftl\' 
 rushing stream. 
 
 In order to ascertain whether a projected railroad 
 might be brought to Bute Inlet, to be there connected 
 with Vancouver Island, a meeting was held in the early 
 part of '61 at the old government building in the city of 
 Victoria, where now stands the postoffice. A number 
 of prominent business men and professional men were 
 present, and I also recollect seeing Lady Franklin there, 
 the widow^ of the renow^ned Arctic exj)lorer, Sir John 
 Franklin, whose tragic fate had attracted so much 
 attention some years before. Among others, who that 
 night discussed the possibilities of Bute Inlet, were Dr. 
 Helmeken, a Mr. Burnaby, and Mr. Alfred Waddington. 
 I have already had occasion to mention the last named 
 gentleman. He was nmch interested in the further 
 development of the countr}', and to him the establish- 
 ment of a railroad terminus at Bute Inlet was a matter 
 of vast importance, wherefore, he also took a prominent 
 part in the proceedings of the evening, during which it 
 was proposed to send an exploring party to the head of 
 the inlet, to report upon the conditions of the country. 
 
 In the general discussion that took place, I strenu- 
 ously opposed the idea of paying anybody in advance. 
 I suggested that parties willing to explore the country, 
 might do so at their own cost, and if they returned with 
 bona fide ronorts, they should be remunerated for their 
 trouble, whether successful or not. I reasoned that pay- 
 ing in advance would give the men employed a chance to 
 
1 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 247 
 
 go half way only and come back without having 
 attempted to find the pass; and, indeed, I knew a party 
 just ready to start on some such proposition, wait- 
 ing only to receive cheque in advance. 
 
 As soon as the meeting was over, I met my partners, 
 and urged them to join me in exploring Bute Inlet. I 
 was somewhat disgusted when they at once refused, 
 saying that they had arranged to go higher up the coast, 
 but after a little persuasion I made them agree to take 
 me up there with them at all events, and we set out on 
 the voyage, 
 
 I laid in a stock of supplies, enough to carry me 
 through for several months, also brought with me an 
 extra quantity of tobacco for the natives. Tobacco 
 among the Indians, in many cases, acts as the golden 
 key to the secret you wish to possess; and it is when 
 this luxury gives out, that the explorer need have seri- 
 ous apprehensions as to the issue of his next negotiation 
 with the red sons of the soil. 
 
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 CHAPTER \. 
 
 My Partners — ViKiting Friends — The Village of Tsawatti — Vil- 
 lainous Indians — Anxious Moments — Friends in Need — Bute 
 Inlet — On the Homathco — Auxiliary Hi vers — Wonderful 
 Hcener}' — Glaciers Ahead — A Sick Indian — Great Hardsliips— 
 The Tequahan and the Meinria — Poor Luck — What a News- 
 paper Wrote. 
 
 I have spoken of my partners, and I may now intro- 
 duce them to my readers. They v/ere Aleck McDonald 
 and Harry Harlan, both of them experienced miners and 
 good fellows. I had mined with Aleck on the Yuba, 
 years before; had camped with him on the Upper 
 Fraser, when I succeeded in reaching those parts, and 
 we had become fast friends, havino; shared the danucers 
 and trials of a rough and adventurous life. Sometime 
 prior to the meeting just referred to, the three of us had 
 purchased a small schooner, and gone up the coast for 
 the purpose of prospecting, and of this trip I will give 
 a brief account. 
 
 Runninof alono* the west coast of Vancouver Island we 
 called in at Nanaimo, where we spent a couple of days 
 with old friends, among whom let me remember, Captain 
 Stewart, Doctor Benson, Mr. Home, Mr. Dunsmuir 
 and others. 
 
 We next made a call at Fort Rupert, where Mr. 
 Winter and Captain Mitchell received us with that lav- 
 ish hospitality, for which the Hudson Bay Company 
 officers had become famous among their friends, and, 
 leavincj them with some reluctance, we now cut across 
 Queen Charlotte Sound and threading our way through 
 
 248 
 
n 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 249 
 
 the labyrinth of island.s, witli wliicli this water is stud- 
 ded, we sailed through **One-Tree Passage," and ^steerino; 
 for Knight Inlet, made oui' way toward the liead of 
 this water, where is situated the Indian village of 
 Tsawatti. We had been up this way before, and it was 
 now our intention to prospect the mountains behind the 
 village, having previously found along the inlet, lead, 
 copper and other minerals, one of which we took to be 
 silver. 
 
 Our little vessel was richly laden with trade for the 
 Indians, and we had blankets and tobacco in abundance. 
 It was arrano^ed that Aleck should jro ashore at Tsawatti. 
 taking with him a certain amount of trade and, while 
 we made an examination of the coast-line, he should 
 take the initiative in the hills. 
 
 We ran ashore as near the. village as possible, and 
 beoan dischargiuL*" the i^oods that were to be left with 
 Aleck, who proposed to take quarters in an Indian cabin 
 a short distance up the hill, whither the boxes and 
 parcels were carried. Meanwhile a number of strange 
 Indians had put in their appearance. They filled the 
 cabin which was to serve as a store-house and beo-an to 
 swarm around our vessel in canoes, looking anything but 
 friendly. 
 
 If the reader has ever seen the heavy villain in a five- 
 act drama of the blood-and-thunder school, overdomg, as 
 he thought, the important role entrusted to his careful 
 acting, he will have seen, as a rule, a fair representation 
 of these Indians who were heavy villains without the 
 least effort on their part. Their brows were knitted 
 and their eyelids lowered, thus producing a hideous 
 scowl. 
 
 The orthodox blanket was thrown over the left 
 shoulder in the manner of a Spanish cape, and to the 
 
 
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 HUNTIN(V FOR (iOl.i) 
 
 practiced observer the general posture of the body, as 
 revealed by tlie folds of the l)lanket, demonstrated that 
 their hands clutched sonic murderous wea[)on, whether 
 a knife or a pistol, held reatly to be used at a moment's 
 notice. 
 
 I had been so busy arran^iii*;' our car^o in the hold, 
 that I had scarcely noticed the natives Hocking around 
 our vessel. Not so with Aleck. The space in the 
 cabin had gradually become smaller and smaller, the air 
 more stiHintj, the chatteringof the natives grown louder, 
 while the situation assumed a cliaracter, not at all 
 pleasing to my companion, who leftthe boxes, which had 
 been stowed away in the cabin, and came down to con- 
 sult with me. 
 
 "I don't like the looks of these fellows, Major," he 
 said, "those that belonix here, I think are all rio'ht, but 
 the strangers look ugly enough." 
 
 I made up my mind right then, that Aleck should 
 not be left alone in this place. "Get the goods down 
 again !" I said, "we will ship them and proceed." 
 
 My friend left me, but shortly after returned, stating 
 that they would not permit him to take anything away. 
 
 I immediately went ashore; seizing the nearest fellow 
 by the arm I pointed to a bide of blankets: "Put them 
 on your shoulder and carry them down there I" I said, 
 at the same time gesticulating to make my meaning 
 clear. 
 
 I don't believe the man understood a word of Ensxlish, 
 but he obeyed me at once. There is a universal langua^'e, 
 which everybody can under.stand, but only few can 
 speak. It has no words of its own, but it depends upon 
 accentuation more than anything else, as I learned in 
 in the course of my life's schooling. It was but a matter 
 of a few minutes when I had everybody carrying for 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 251 
 
 me, and the o-oods were heiti<' returned wholesale, to the 
 evident disj^ust of the wily Indians, who had hoped for 
 plunder, while I now merely paid my carriers a few 
 pieces of tobacco in return for their services. 
 
 But the trouble was not over yet. By this time the 
 Indians were swarming upon the deck of our little vessel, 
 and upon my return to it, they had blocked the ganjjj- 
 way so that I could not get aboard for some time; when 
 at last I reached the deck, I called my men below, and we 
 at once made our arsenal ready for use. We had plenty 
 of guns, pistols, balls and powder, and had just broken 
 into a keg of the latter. I told the boys, and they 
 agreed with me, that if we found we were getting the 
 worst ot it, I should throw a match into the powder-keg, 
 thus showing our charitable disj)osition by taking our 
 enemies aloft with us, rather than let them cut us to 
 pieces. 
 
 Meanwhile the Redskins continued to hold possession 
 of the deck. They were e\idently in a quandary, not 
 knowmg how to begin the fray, for they had perceived 
 that we had headed them off, and ever so much better 
 armed than they were. Just as we thought that time 
 was nearly up for the first round to begin, a large canoe 
 shot across the waters toward our vessel, but to our sur- 
 prise tlie warriors in the canoe came to render us assist- 
 ance. They had heard of the plight we were in and 
 now a few words from them quickly persuaded the enemy 
 to abandon oar vessel, but not till he had, with the 
 polish of a thorough villain, assured us that everything 
 was all right, that we were all friends and that we had 
 quite misunderstood their move. I assured them in 
 return that if that powder keg had been heard from 
 there would have been no occasion for them to misunder- 
 stand our move in the matter, and from that day hence- 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 forth I novor took a Kiii«jrlit Inlet Indian at his word. 
 
 On tliat same expediticni we went up the Skeena and 
 arrived near Fort Simpson just as the Indians were 
 about to have a hiij^ fiijflit. They recognized us, however, 
 anil kindly sent word to us, asking us to go below as 
 they were going to shoot. Indian warfare differs some- 
 what from our mode of killing in battle. The Indians 
 go on shooting till somebody is hurt, and then by a 
 signal they stop to see what can be done further. After 
 a little while the battle is taken up again. This some- 
 what retards bloodshed and limits casualties, unlike the 
 more civilized mode of warfare, which takes particular 
 pains to kill as many as possible. If the medicine man 
 falls in battle, and he did not succeed in pulling his last 
 patient through, his scalp is eagerly sought by the 
 survivors. If the scalps of Medicos in more civilized 
 connnunities were a little less safe than they are, probably 
 there would be a good deal less quackery in that, other- 
 wise most estimable, profession. 
 
 On this trip we made the discovery of what we took 
 to be rich lead ore. We had a quantity shipped for 
 London, and a man went to England to look after it, but 
 neither man nor ore was ever heard of since and, while 
 some charged fraud, I think it more likely that the ore 
 was shoveled on board some other vessel as ballast. 
 
 I now ]:)roceed to speak of my expedition to Bute 
 Inlet. It was one of the most important undertakings, 
 with which I was connected in British Columbia, and, 
 althouuh I did not succeed at the time in crossiiii' the 
 range personally, our experiences there had much to do 
 with the later success of Aleck McDonald, who was 
 indeed the first white man to perform the feat of traversing 
 the mountains at the head of Bute Inlet. 
 
 We arrived here on the third day of July 1861, having 
 
HUNTING FOK GOLD 
 
 253 
 
 ) 
 
 Is 
 
 traveled about 225 miles since leavinj; Victoria. On 
 either side the shore rises boldly. The inlet is Tiavigable 
 for whips of any size, and there is particularly <;ood 
 aii('hora_i(e at several places, where the fresh water 
 streams join the inlet, which averages a width of one 
 mile and a half and is clear of reefs and sunken rocks. 
 At the head of the iidet on the west side, close to the 
 shore, the bottom is sandy in twenty fathoms of water, 
 and splendid shelter is afforded against the southwester 
 blowing up the iidet. I have already mentioned the 
 principal rivers, falling into the inlet, of which the 
 Homathco is the most important. The back country 
 Indians come down to the coast by this river for the 
 purpose of obtaining sahnon, and I determined to ascend 
 it. We experienced considerable trouble in getting 
 sufficient Indians to take us up the river. The natives 
 here are not very easy to get along with, and I had to 
 use all my tact and powers of persuasion in order to 
 enlist eight men, who finally agreed to aecom[)any 
 McDonald and myself on our expedition. 
 
 On the 7th of July we started up the river. We had 
 sufficient supplies with us to take us over the mountains, 
 and we had three canoes, I heading the procession 
 with two natives. The course of the river winds through 
 sandy fiats, thickly timbered. The timber however is 
 very light, and the soil formed by the continual wash 
 from the mountains. On the western shore we saw the 
 snow mantling the distant hills and on the first day of 
 our journey we passed two glaciers. We found that the 
 tide came up as far as ten miles, thus rendering it pos- 
 sible for small steamers to go up that distance at high 
 water. The formation of the rock varied somewhat, 
 being principally granite on our western shore, while on 
 the opposite bank we found slate, intermixed with strag- 
 
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 254 
 
 HUNTING FOR COLD 
 
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 gling veins of (juartz. At one place on this slioro we 
 observed a lar«(e mountain, the appearance of which 
 indicated minerals, and I followed a reddish vein, think- 
 ing that it might contain something, but was disappointed. 
 
 On the second day the river current increased in 
 velocitj', and we foresaw that it would be a difficult task 
 to ascend the stream. At one place my Indians failed 
 to keep the head of the canoe to the current; she 
 turned first broadside and then bottom up. In one 
 moment we were all in the water. I saw what was 
 coming, and warned my companions, but they did not 
 heed in time. I caught my pistol belt and clambered on 
 to a drift loof which took me down the stream towards 
 the other canoes, but for some time I looked in vain for 
 the Indians. It did not take me louii; to meet McDon- 
 aid and his crew, who picked me up, and by this time 
 my late companions had reached the shore, where they 
 stood shiverino; after their cold bath, while we went in 
 pursuit of the escaping canoe, and soon overtook it. It 
 had sustained considerable damage, while everythini>' in 
 it had, of cours'fe, dropped out, and it was quite n loss, 
 under the circumstances. 
 
 The worst of it all was tliat the Indians had become 
 so scared at the accident, that they positively refused to 
 l)roceed further, and after nmch talking and arguing, we 
 ultimately persuaded them to let us have a canoe in 
 in exchanixe for blankets and shirts, as we were deter- 
 mined to push on towards the head of the river, Indians 
 or no Indians. We now sent down to the vessel for 
 more supplies in place of those we had lost, and, hav- 
 ing received the goods, we made another start with only 
 two Indians for my companions, one of whom was a 
 chief. 
 
 Some way up the river we came to an auxiliary, join- 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 in<»- the Homathco from the east. This stream was 
 called by the Indians who live there, the Hickhanum, 
 the name of their own tribe. It iiowed swiftly, with 
 stontr current, but an Indian chief assured us that if we 
 would only push up the stream, in the course of one day 
 we should reach some very fine land, throu|n|"h a narrow 
 pass further up. We took the man at liis word, and set 
 out to find the place. 
 
 The journey was a dangerous one, and we made slow 
 progress through woodland, and Hats covered with rocky 
 bowlders, until we heard above us the deafning sound of 
 rushing waters. Presently we came to a deep chasm. 
 From between the narrow walls a muddy stream rushed 
 forth, stirring tlie waters of the already turbulent stream, 
 and filling the air with a thundering noise. I conject- 
 ured, at once, that the water came from a glacier, and 
 we ascended the rocks forming the chasm, when, sure 
 enoii'jh, we beheld the o-lacierlyino; between two mount- 
 ains which rose abruptly on either side. 
 
 The glacier was distant about one mile, and we 
 reached it by traversing a bowlder flat. This was the 
 first glacier I had ever seen coming down to level 
 ground. It was, apparently, over one mile wide, and 
 extended back as far as the eye could reach, in an east- 
 erly direction. 
 
 I was much impressed with the surrounding nature of 
 this locality. From behind, the woodlands wafted their 
 fragrant breezes up the chasm, filling the air with an 
 odor of life; and a number of small swallows playfully 
 chased one another in the golden rays of a hot July sun. 
 And there in front of us the grim picture of winter, as 
 we descended the hucje block of ice with all the varied 
 hues of transparent blue, green and gold where the sun- 
 beams were making inroads through the crevices, trying 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 257 
 
 .0 
 
 rel 
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 Ing 
 
 in vain to soften the ponderous mass. And these very- 
 crevices leadinof into caverns of eternal frost and dark- 
 ness, traversed by ice-cold sti'eanis, but never lighted or 
 warmed bv the beneficent sun. As I stood tliere, look- 
 int»* backward and then a^^ain forward, it seemed to me as 
 if I stood somewhere between life and death. 
 
 In this wilderness I naturally wanted to know what 
 the trail was sup])osed to be, and my Indian guide 
 looked somewhat blank, as he told me that the season 
 was a bad one for traveling this way, and that the right 
 time would be in the fall, when the crevices had frozen 
 up again. I could have suggested that, myself, but 
 having got so far, I thought we would try to skirt the 
 glacier, along the mountain side, and thus find out 
 where the gorge would lead us to. But the undertak- 
 ing was a very risky one. We had to leap from bowl- 
 der to bowlder at the imminent risk of our lives, and 
 when, after a while, we climbed the mountain, we could 
 see nothing but snow-fields as far as the eye could reach, 
 and the horizon itself seemed shut in by ice and snow. 
 We concluded that we had gone as far as human beings 
 could go in this direction, and, seeing no possibility of 
 finding a pass here, suitable for our purposes, we 
 retraced our steps, and having reached the canoe, 
 returned to the mainland. 
 
 We had not proceeded very far, when we came upon 
 another river, falling into the Homathco, and for the 
 second time we left the latter, traveling up an auxiliary, 
 coming from the east. We had hard work, journeying 
 up this stream, which ran with great force. We had to 
 make a portage at one place, while at others we were 
 obliged to tow the canoe up the stream, making fast the 
 line round a bush every now and again, while we cut 
 our way along the bank. It was one of the most trying 
 
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 258 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 journeys I ever undertook, wliicli is saying a good deal, 
 and our Indian chief began to cry, said lie was sick and 
 wanted to go home. There are many who believe that 
 the colored races surpass the Caucasians in endurance, 
 but this is entirely a misanrehension. For endurance, 
 tenacity, determination of purpose and moral courage 
 the Caucasian cannot be equaled by any colored race 
 I have ever met. On this occasion we suffered great 
 hardships. We were most of the time in the cold water, 
 warding off drift wood and pulling or pushing our canoes 
 ahead, and we succeeded in retaining our Indian, with- 
 out whom we could not have made sufficient progress, so 
 we let him cry and complain but kept him at work. He 
 was no doubt much relieved, when we discovered that 
 we had been traveling up another outlet for a glacier 
 and once more returned to the Homathco, However, 
 before abandoning this route, McDonald and I followed 
 the stream on foot for some distance and came to another 
 small river joining it from the west. Here we learned 
 that the Bella Coola Indians come down for salmon in 
 the fall. They have a trail by which they come through 
 this rocky pass at the head of the river, but our exami- 
 nation of this locality did not satisfy us that it could be 
 used for anvthino; but an Indian trail. 
 
 Havinu; returned to the main river, we followed it 
 further up, examining a few smaller streams that ran 
 into it at different places. The country was very wild 
 with deep canyons and steep mountains. Here and 
 there larjije ijlaciers, and rushinor rivulets with plentv of 
 drift wood on the stream and lars^e threatenino; bowlders 
 on their banks. But in ail this we could not find anv 
 place suitable for the desired })ass, and after having 
 spent sixteen days on the Homathco we returned to the 
 schooner at the head of the Inlet. I was not at all 
 
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HUNTING FOP GOLD 
 
 259 
 
 it 
 ran 
 ,'ild 
 iiul 
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 lers 
 
 ring 
 Itbe 
 all 
 
 satisfied with iny expedition. I thought that under 
 mure favorable circumstances it might be possible to 
 penetrate further up, and I felt that I should like to 
 make anotiier attempt. 
 
 We next ascended the river Tequahan, running into 
 Bute Inlet from the north. Our experience here was 
 very similar to that on the Homathco River, if possible 
 a little worse, and we soon concluded that here, at all 
 events, we should not find the pass, of which we were 
 in search. At certain seasons of the year the Indians 
 here cross the mountains, hunting the goat over the 
 frozen snow, but this fiict alone proved to us the absence 
 of the desired conditions for our purpose, and we returned 
 once more to the Inlet to try the third and last river, 
 falling into it. This is known as the Memria or South- 
 irate river. 
 
 We were destined to experience more hardships and 
 additional failures on this expedition. The natives told 
 us that the Lockwalla Indians came down here at times 
 and that there was a trail across to I-iillooet. We 
 attempted to follow the latter but were forced to admit 
 that it would not serve for a road of any kind, and 
 havino; once more battled with the wilds of nature and 
 suffered a good deai, owing to the roughness of the 
 country, we again returned to the Inlet and set sail for 
 civilized parts, having spent one month and a half in 
 exploring the adjacent country. 
 
 As we had to bear the burden of expense, it came 
 quite heavy upon us at the time, but we satisfied our- 
 selves that we had, at all events, added to the general 
 knowledge of the locality, and gathered information 
 hitherto unknown. "The Daily Press" of Victoria, 
 under date of 20th August, 1861, published the follow- 
 ing editorial comments relative to our exploration. 
 
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 200 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 "The problem wliicli b;is caused so niueli ajj^itation 
 anioiiir inia<jfiiiutive siJeculators in Victoria, is at last 
 solved, and the numerous gentlemen who have pre-empt- 
 ed land in the region of the inlet, (Bute) that they 
 might cut it up into town lots and supply the over- 
 whelming: rush of business men and others that were 
 naturally expected to beseige the place, have expended 
 their eight-shilling fee for registration, to little purpose. 
 
 ''The Bute Inlet route is a miserable failure. Major 
 Downie has tested every conceivable opening to the 
 interior, with a persistency that few but the Major 
 would have exhibited, and has arrived at the conclusion 
 that a road to the Fraser from Bute Inlet is, for any 
 advantageous purpose, totally impracticable. 
 
 "We characterised sometime aijfo the jjflowini*- des- 
 criptions, which were circulated by interested or unthink- 
 ing persons about the Bute Inlet route, as simply 
 imaginative emanations, without any claims to substance 
 or reality and the result has proved the corroctness of 
 our remarks. 
 
 We are glad the impracticability of the route has 
 been demonstrated by a man whose knowledge of the 
 practical science of exploration, few in the community 
 will feel disposed to doubt. 
 
 •'It will effectually set at rest this wavering, unsettled 
 disposition about the route to the mines, a feeling that 
 could only end in injury to those means of transit, at 
 present under construction. We have no inclination 
 whatever to discourage explorations of the coast for 
 routes to the interior of British Columbia, but we have 
 argued, that to attempt to draw the Governor's attention 
 fnmi the Lillooet road at the present time, when every 
 farthing that can possibly be spared from the British 
 Columbia Treasury should be devoted to that object, 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 2G1 
 
 it 
 
 1 
 
 until we have one good, passable route to the interior, 
 would be as injurious as it would bo puerile. We are 
 not exceedino-ly favorable to the British Columbia gov- 
 ernment; but we must admit that it has exerted the 
 power placed in its hands so I'ar as roads are concerned, 
 in a manner that few ean cavil at. 
 
 "We do not, therefore; wish to see the attention oi the 
 Governor drawn away to impracticable objects and dep- 
 utations requesting the assistance of a gunboat, to humor 
 the whims and 'castle-buildinu' of a few erratic and fan- 
 ciful speculators. 
 
 "We may be told that Bentinck Arm is still unex- 
 plored; that the rumors which were some time ago 
 afloat with regard to its practicability as a coast route, 
 are yet uncontradicted. But we think there has been 
 sufficient evidence adduced to put a stop, for this year, 
 at least, to any further attempt to show that the pres- 
 ent route to the mines is a useless expenditure of money. 
 
 ''li' Major Downie's trip will have the effect, as it 
 shoukl have, of ck)ubling the energy at present expended 
 on the Fraser River route, it will be of infinite service 
 to both c(>lonies. At all events, the people of this and 
 the neiohborino- colony, are under lastinu' obliixations to 
 Messrs. Downie and McDonald for the energy and dis- 
 interestedness which they have displayed in their explo- 
 rations, and we hope that something more substantial 
 than a public meeting will l)e awarded to the adventur- 
 ous ii'entlemen. 
 
 "It is to be presumed, now that the spirit of explor- 
 ing enterprise is in the ascendancy, that our colony will 
 not be passed and neglected, as it has hitherto been. 
 
 '•We have not the slightest doubt there are objects on 
 this island awaiting the efforts of ex])loration, of infinite- 
 ly greater importance to the colony, than any coast 
 
II! 
 
 lit 
 
 2(;2 
 
 HL'NTINC. von COLD 
 
 route to the interior of British Coluinhia. We hope, 
 therefore, before any further voyage of discovery is 
 made that Vancouver island, which can never exhibit 
 the unsurniountable obstacles that Bute presented, 
 will obtain some sliare of that attention which has re- 
 cently been concentrated on the rugged mountains 
 and impetuous rivers of the neighboring colony." 
 
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CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Unscrupulous Speculators — The Pre-emption Law — The People 
 of Westminster — Two Explorers — False Reports — A Rowdy 
 Audience — Cariboo Mining — Trying to Pump Gold — The 
 Money Ran Out — Waddington's Enterprise — A Camp at 
 Bute Inlet — Treacherous Indians — A Night of Horrors — 
 The Avenger — The Killing of a Dear Friend. 
 
 The reader will propably excuse my indulging in a lit- 
 tle self-praise, as it may appear, by publishing the above 
 editorial; but I have not done it with an idea of personal 
 agrandizement. I am rather actuated by a desire to 
 demonstrate the sentiment prevailing at the time; or shall 
 I say, one of the sentiments, for I shall presently show 
 that opinions were somewhat divided. 
 
 The fight lay between the immigrants, who gradually 
 became the hona ^e settlers, and the speculators, who 
 resorted to trickery and imperfect land laws, for the pur- 
 pose of enriching themselves. The pre-emption law ena- 
 bled men to take up land, purely as a matter of specu- 
 lation; and many shady transactions in real estate were 
 brought about by this fact. It was to some extent the 
 motive power which resulted in a good deal of explora- 
 tion up and down the coast, and in that respect it was 
 commendable enough; but it also caused reports to be 
 spread relative to these explorations, which were, in 
 many cases, so far removed fjom the truth that no one 
 would recognizedthe localities from some of the descrip- 
 tions. 
 
 But of all places, none had attracted so much atten- 
 
 263 
 
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 2(54 
 
 HUNTING KOR ClOLD 
 
 liarbor facilities, tlio fine scenery, tlie location and tlie 
 fact tiiat three rivers ran into it, — all contrihiited to- 
 ^var(ls a ij^eneral desire to see it made a railroad terminus. 
 The [)resent railroad skirts aloni;- Kamploops Lake and 
 follows the bend of the river Fraser below the junction 
 of Bonaparte River, but had not the line been contin- 
 ued due west by Seton ^ ^ake, through the Lillooet dis- 
 trict, it would have p' I the Cascade mountains near 
 Bute Iidet, and come .,/wn to the waters of that splen- 
 did harbor. Then thousands of dollars would have 
 been realized in that locality by a few speculators, who 
 now either kept honest settlers out of the field, or sold 
 them land under false pretenses, at unwarranted prices. 
 
 The one predominant idea was, as has been several 
 times alluded to, to cut across the mountains from the 
 river to the coast in place of followini;' the windings of 
 the P'rascr. On the other hand, this river afforded a 
 natural hisxhwav into the interior. It was a matter of 
 course that the country around its (uitlet looked forward 
 to the advantaii:es which mitiht accrue from such a 
 fact, and hence a good deal of rivalry sprang up between 
 the New Westminster people and the Bute Inlet spec- 
 ulators. 
 
 Every effort had been made to destroy the possibility 
 of Westminster taking the lead. Even charts and 
 maps had been published so absolutely wrong that one 
 hesitates to speak of it for fear of being doubted; but nev- 
 ertheless it is a fact that on such charts rivers were 
 made to suit the convenience of the project; mountain 
 ranges were placed where the alleged surveyor saw fit, 
 and they were accompanied by reports, colored so as to 
 throw the desired effect upon the scene, independently 
 of the real truth. 
 
 Such, indeed, was the state of affairs, when the meet- 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 2(15 
 
 ini:^ vvas called wlilcli T inciitloned in my provious chap- 
 ter. Had I wished to ofet into the pay of tho specula- 
 tors, I could havi' made enough money on ]5ute Inlet 
 to am])ly repay me for my outlay and hardships cn- 
 dui'e(l, hut all 1 wished to do was to maive a. fair and 
 unhiased report of what I saw and learned. 
 
 Not so with thosi- whose onlv aim was to enrich 
 themselves. MclJ uiald and I risked our lives daily in 
 the wilderness of the interior ahout the now famous in- 
 let. A couple of men came U[) to mak(! a survey of the 
 coast, the same as we had done. They came in a small 
 vessel, and when they learned that we had j^one up one 
 of the three rivers, they i)Ut their craft ahout and sailed 
 for Victoria, where they at once reported the maj^iiiH- 
 cent discovery of an easy pass at the head of the inlet, 
 and a safe road across to Fort Alexandria. This o-ar- 
 bled statement was clad in all the fanciful lan^ua^'e of 
 the novelist, and no etlbrts were spared to make the 
 country appear advantaL»-eous, while the paper that pah- 
 lished it, went into elaborate details reui'ardiniif the pro- 
 jected railroad with its terminus at Bute Inlet and all 
 the rest, fi^ivino- land in the vicinity a wonderful rise in 
 the market. 
 
 Of all this, however, I was not aware. I first learned 
 of it when sometime after I arrived in Victoria and 
 determined to make my experience known in proper 
 style. 80 I hired a hall, calling a meeting and arranged 
 my papers in such a manner as to give my audience an 
 intelligent report of my explorations in the interest of 
 the common weal. I had a fair-sized audience, and as I 
 appeared upon the rostrum, flattered myself that I was 
 going to make quite an impression, which indeed I did; 
 but it w'.r the wrong way. No sooner had my hearers 
 ' understooo from my remarks that I could not recom- 
 
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 111(311(1 Huto Inh^t, wlu'ii it seems that one and all took it 
 tor (jranted that 1 was in some kind of a eolliision with 
 tlie Westminster people to S(juash the biu; land sehemes 
 of l^ute Inlet. Yells went up in ditt'erent jiarts of the 
 uudieiu'e, such as "Put him out!" "What's he talkinj^' 
 about?" "Bully for you!" And then various articles 
 were thrown across the hall, hreakinjjj sundry lamps 
 in their route towards myself, who had certainly 
 become the central point of interest. 
 
 1 was surprised beyond description. I could barely 
 realize that in return for telliiiir people a truth which 
 had cost me many weary marches at the peril of my 
 life to ascertain, I should be treated as a charletan, 
 while a couple of impostert-' walked ofl* with the glory 
 of havin^; accomplished what they never attempted, 
 probably well paid, while I got nothing. Strangely 
 enough, to-day, after thirty years, there are still people 
 who allow themselves to be gulled into speculating in 
 Bute Inlet land, not content with the experience reaped 
 by different parties during all these years, all pointing 
 to the fact that nature will resist any engineering in 
 those regions, excepting at a cost which would be con- 
 sidered absolutely unreasonable. 
 
 In the spring of 1862 I was mining at the mouth of 
 Mink Gulch in Cariboo. It was evident that I had 
 more luck, when looking for gold than wht^n trying to 
 find mountain passes, for I struck it rich in the gravel 
 and took out lots of the precious metal. Indeed, during 
 that period the miners in this locality did well and filled 
 their sacks fast, and when I remember such places as 
 Conklin Gulch and Williams Creek, I am thinking of 
 some of the richest placers that ever were. 
 
 But here again the old demon whispered the words 
 into the miner's ear, which sent so many to destruction 
 
 II 
 
HUNTING FOK COLD 
 
 2G7 
 
 into tlio miner's car, vvliicli sent so many to destruction 
 — tlie word Exeelslor I The j»old seekers did the same 
 tliini,^ in British Columhia, asthey liad done in CaHCornia 
 ten years before, always ea<;er for better chanees they 
 let «^ ot'a <^ood claim to pursue a phantom — I with tlie 
 rest an a matter of course. And thus I came to look 
 for «:;old in the Cariboo Swamps, where rumor had it 
 there was lots of the yellow stuH'. But alas for "-old 
 huntin*^ in swamps I We pumped mud day and niy^ht 
 to find some kind of a trace, but it kej)t out of our way. 
 Under the title of the Long Point Company we dug 
 ditches and })umped enough brown mud out to fill an 
 ocean. To make a long story short, we pumped there 
 till my finances were pumped completely out, for I had 
 to foot the bills. At last I gave U}). I told the boys to 
 help themselves to a sack of flour, or whatever they 
 re(|uired, and to look for better chances somewhere else; 
 and while the digL'ers down the creek said that we had 
 struck it rich and were making "two fish to the pan," I 
 made my way down the Fraser River on foot — a sadder 
 but a wiser man. 
 
 L have mentioned Mr Waddington's aspirations in the 
 direction of exploring, and that he was vastly interested 
 in Bute Inlet and the adjacent country. In course of 
 time he planned a townsite there and began to make 
 roads as best he could. It proved a dangerous work 
 ft)r the men; not only because of the wild nature in this 
 vicinity, but also owing to the indisposition on the part 
 of some of the Indians, who objected to any road being 
 made through their country. 
 
 Such an objection was not altogether uncalled for. 
 The Indians were not slow to perceive that at the same 
 time as the approach of the white man brought them 
 advantages, there were also other sides to the question, 
 
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 not the least of tlicso Ix'iii^ tlio disi-ascs, .spread ainonof 
 tlu' native tribes by the invaders. Tlius, in tlie year 
 1S()2, siuall-pox was carried by tlie wliites to Bella Coola, 
 whence it spread as far as IJenshee and Chisicat lakes, 
 and in an incredibly short time no less than five Imndred 
 Indians died at the last place. Ag'ain, the manner in 
 which unscrupulous adventurers had repeatedly broken 
 faith with the natives, had done much harm to the 
 white man and reflected even U[)on those who cam*' 
 amonjj; them with honesty of ])Urpose and Li.'ood intent. 
 Among the chiefs \vhoop|)osedthe proi:>Te.>s of Waddiny- 
 ton's Party w^as one, Tellet bv name. At the time I 
 speak of the party consistiMl ol seventeen meit, incharo'c 
 of Mr. Bi-ewster, and a man nnnied dim Smith looked 
 after the store and ferry. Oiw dav, duiinLf the niontii of 
 April, 18()4, Tellet arrived at the ferry with his sons-in- 
 law, known as Jack and (leorLie. and also accompanied 
 by Klattasine, a vonn^' Indian of nineteen years; Indian 
 slave, Chravchunume, twenty years of aLie, and three 
 more Indians. It was afternoon when they neare<l 
 Smith's place and Klattasine was sent ahead, conunis- 
 sioiied to asc(>rtaiu the whereabouts of the white chief, 
 as they called Waddinu'ton, and to murder Smith. The 
 Indian demanded that Smith ])resent him with :-,ome 
 blankets, which the storekeeper refused to do, where- 
 upon Klattasine suddenly tired at him, killinij; him in- 
 stantaneously. Then he ransacked the house, and 
 having' returned to his companions, a plan was laid to 
 surprise Brewster's camj) at the Third Blufl' during tlu; 
 night, and thither the Indians now proceeded. 
 
 Arrived there the scene that nresented itself was the 
 customary picture of a survey ^'I's cam|) after the days' 
 work is over. The men had uatlK'rid round the cam]>- 
 fire, and the smoke oi *lieir pipes curled aloft in the still 
 
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 270 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 eveniiii£, while the smokers were chattm^■ about current 
 topics, entirely unconscious of the tragedy that had 
 been enacted at the ferry, and the awful fate that awaited 
 themselves. As tlie party had apparently alwa3's been 
 on the friendliest of terms with the Indians, their 
 arrival did not arouse the least suspicion. The Redskins 
 joined in the general conversation, and time passed by 
 agreeably enough, until the hour had come, when every 
 white man went to his tent, rolled himself in his blanket, 
 and slept the sleep of the weary. 
 
 But tbe Indians did not sleep. They lay watching 
 for the moment to arrive when their fiendish mission 
 could be fulfilled, and just before the sun rose to throw 
 its glimmer upon the landscape, and call all creation to 
 life once more, these demons rose to put the peacefully 
 slumbering and unsuspecting men to death. The men 
 were divided in the tents, sleeping two or three to- 
 gether, and tho Indians rushed upon them, throwing 
 down the tent poles and with knives and pistols began 
 murdering the sleepers, who, taken entirely by surprise, 
 were stabbed or shot at throuoh the canvas. F'or a mo- 
 ment all was confusion. The whoops and yells of the 
 Indians raniJj throutrli the clear morninfj air and minified 
 with the groans and imprecations of the struggling sur- 
 veyors, who tried in vain to escape their cruel enemy, 
 and when the hideous work had been performed, only 
 three men out of seventeen had escaped death, as if by 
 a miracle. They were Peter Petersen, a Dane; Philip 
 Buckley, an Irishman and an Englishman by the name 
 of Moseley, the last one being the ordy one who escaped 
 unscathed. 
 
 The terror of the situatior may l^e imagined from 
 Moseley 's statement, who, in his own words, described 
 the scene as iie saw it: "I was in a tent with J. Camp- 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 271 
 
 bell and J. Fieldini>' a Scotchman and an Enixlishniun 
 respectively, when just about day-break T was awak- 
 eiied by two Indians coming to the tent door. They 
 did not enter, but merely raised the door, then, whoop- 
 ing aloud, they fired ou either side of me. I was lying 
 in the center of the tent, and as they let the ridge pole 
 down it fell upon me, and the tent nearly smothered us. 
 Presently I saw the canvas on either side of me being 
 pierced with knives penetrating the bodies of my com- 
 panions. I could see through the canvas, and observed 
 the Indians going to another tent, when I jumped \i\) 
 and extricating myself plunged into the river, which was 
 but a few steps from me. I swam about a hundred 
 vards and then crawled ashore, when I noticed Indian 
 men and women shouting and yelling, where the cook's 
 provision tent was. I fled further down the river and 
 then met Petersen, with whom I proceeded. We never 
 had any difticulties with the Indians previous to this." 
 
 Botli Buckley and Petersen had a most miraculous 
 escape. The former received two knife wounds and was 
 hit in the head with the butt-end of a musket. He fell 
 to the tjround like a loiX, ^nd the Indians thought him 
 dead; but he afterwards recovered his senses and made 
 his escape. Petersen's wrist was crushed by a musket 
 ball, and it is a wonder that thev were not murdered 
 with the rest. 
 
 After the Indians had assured themselves that their 
 victims were all dead, they finished up their bloody 
 work bv horriblv nmtilating the bodies; teariny- the 
 tents into shreds and looting the camp, carrvino" awav 
 all the stores, including two hundred pounds of bacon. 
 Brewster and two of his men were not in the camp at 
 the time of the bloodshed. Thej" had gone up the trail 
 to examine it, and the Indians at once went in search of 
 
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 272 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 them, and all three were murdered like their compan- 
 ions. 
 
 The three men, wlio escaped, all made for the ferry, 
 wliere they found the nuitilated body of the storekeeper. 
 
 They had c^reat difficulty irt crossing tlie river, 
 wounded as two of them were, and for fear of being 
 overtaken by the Indians, baricaded themselves in a log 
 house, wliere they remained for several days, until two 
 packers came past, who took them away. They were 
 then conveyed to Nanaimo, where they were cared for 
 at the French Hos})ital, under the care of Dr. Pujol. 
 
 The news of this massacre created the <xreatest excite- 
 ment, and no time was lost in dealing out severe retri- 
 Ijution and checkinLi' these savages in their wanton 
 course, but as they went on to the junction of Bute In- 
 let and ]^entinck Arm, it was feared that Manning's 
 party, and McDonald and his party, known to be, at the 
 time, packing considerable freight into the Cariboo 
 mines, would share the same fate as the Waddington 
 party, and true enough, it was confirmed later by some of 
 the scouts under McLean, of Bonaparte, that Mr. Man- 
 ning and others were nmrdered at Benshee Lake. 
 
 The gunboat "Forward" was dispatched to Bute In- 
 let with twenty-one volunteers. The flagship *'Sutlej" 
 was dispatched to Bentinck Arm with a party of ma- 
 rines, taking with tliem two Clayhoose Indians who 
 were acquainted with the murderers and witnessed the 
 massacre. Commissioner Cox started from Cariboo for 
 Soda Creek with forty hardy miners, well .equipped and 
 armed with good rifles and revolvers, where he expected 
 to meet with Captain McLean, but this gentleman to- 
 gether with Aleck McDonald and others, had started 
 out to reconnoitre, only to bo trapped by the Indians. 
 
 Hiding in the thick underixrowth, Tellet and his 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 273 
 
 'm 
 
 moil fired at tlio party from ambush, and McLean 
 fell dead to tlie j^round, Tlio fire was returned, but as 
 the enemy could not be seen, no certain aim could be 
 taken, and the white luen were forced to retreat. The 
 Indians now made their appearance to pursue the enemy 
 when McDonald and a few more turned round, and, firing 
 from behind a tree, sent several of the hostiles to the 
 grass. At last McDonald was the ouly one left,attempting 
 to cover the retreat and check the Indians. His friends 
 shouted "come on," but he reolied: "Just one shot more 
 at that fellow, and I will come I" It was too late, how- 
 evei', and his horrified friends saw the musket falling 
 from his hands, while he sank dead to the ground with 
 a bullet through liis head. 
 
 Thus died one of the bravest of men, one of the truest 
 of iriends, trying to cover his companions, fearless to the 
 last; one of the many unknown heroes, whose lives wore 
 lost in the great wilds, in trying to build up a grand and 
 beautiful country. 
 
 But retrilmtion was near at hand, and the nmrderous 
 Indians soon after met their fate. They wore surrounded 
 in the mountains, and cut off from escape; foar and hunger 
 forced them to surrender into the hands of the law. 
 They were all hanged in quick order, five of them being 
 strung u{) on one beam, while Chief Toilet boasted to 
 the last of the number of white men, whose blood he had 
 shed. 
 
 Thus was enacted oii'- of the greatest tragedies of the 
 early days of British Columbia, and while the invader 
 lay scalped and nmtilated in the woods, the rightful lord 
 of the soil hung dangling from a gallows tree. Strange, 
 indeed, that it should be thus, that after all, the difi'or- 
 ence between the human being and the savage brute is 
 so small; for it should at all times be borne in mind that, 
 
274 
 
 HUNTINC; ?OR (iOLD 
 
 althoui^h Waddinj^toii's party liatl coiniiiitted no attroc- 
 itios on the Indians, yet the usurper of the country liad 
 in so many instances caused tlie Indians to suffer indii(- 
 nities, wliich even more civilized races would have con- 
 sidered that only blood could atone for. 
 
 11 
 
 i(ii. 
 
 ':,■;:; i p. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The Gold Export Tux- Captain Evans and His Son — In tho Edi- 
 tor's Kooni — The Kusso-American Telegraph — Two Different 
 Routes — How to Go to Work — Once More at Dean Canal 
 — Some Beautiful Land — Predicting a Bright Future — Hon. 
 John Kobson — The Famous Granite Creek — Lumps of Gold 
 — Advice to Disheartened Miners — Comparing Fast and 
 Present. 
 
 The idea of introducing a so-called gold export tax 
 met \vitli much favor among the miners of British Co- 
 lumbia, who in the early .sixties clamored loudly for a 
 measure, the object of which was to keep the gold 
 within the country where it had been found, and I 
 admit that I was, at the time, one of the supporters of 
 the project. Having had an opportunity, in after years, 
 to more thoroughly consider the matter and view it from 
 other points tlian those which then presented them- 
 selves to me, I am inclined to think it was well for the 
 country that the measure was never made law. 
 
 I remember a curious incident in connection with 
 this, which caused some anmsement among the initiated 
 ones. During the year 1806 a meeting was held at the 
 The Theater Royal, in Victoria, for the purpose of dis- 
 cussing the matter of the said tax. Captain John 
 Evans was in the chair, and a great many people were 
 present, most of them miners or men interested in 
 mines, and, while a good many speeches were made, the 
 general sentiment expressed, seemed to be in favor of 
 the tax. Captain Evans was a Welchman, and one of 
 the best known Cariboo miners. From Billy Barker's 
 
 276 
 
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 276 
 
 irUNTINC; I'Ok COLD 
 
 down to Ciunoron's, tlioro wen; few wlio did not know 
 him, and lie was ludd in much (j.stccni anioii^^ th(! mim rs 
 of that (Hstjict, ll(; was a Hu(3nt writer, and fnMjUiintly 
 contrihutt'd to tin; nows[)a|)(!rs of th(i day, an<l was a jx-i- 
 sonal friend of Alexander T. l^ell, of tlie N^ictoria Tunas, 
 t the (!()lumns of whicli j)a])er he liad eontril)Ut(Ml many 
 valuable artieli's; and when the; tax (|uestion arose, he 
 was a fervent advocate of its introduction. Th(3 Cap- 
 tain had a son, Taliesen Evans, who is now well known 
 in (California, as a journalist and writer on various sub- 
 jects, but at the time of which I speak, he; was a coy 
 youth who had not, as yet, made his debut before the 
 j)ublie, in any manner. 
 
 Youiil;' Kvans was at the mecstinijf referred to. He 
 listencMJ to the sj)eeclics and could hardly refrain from 
 makinur one himself, beinji' checked ordv by his vouthful 
 modesty, but it ap[)eared to him that the; argument in 
 favor of the tax was wron<Ji', and Ik? was anxious to say 
 so. After his return home; tliat evcninjj; he set to woi'k 
 and I am told, for the first time ventured upon an 
 address throuo-h the public press. H(^ wrote a Ifjttcr. 
 (^jonnncntini;' u])on the meetmL;; and its object and uriijc d 
 tl'.at, as t\\(i min(!r was taxed for (iverytlunu; he ate and 
 drank, for his clothes, his tools, his necessaries of IW'v. 
 and his luxuries alike, it would be unjust and out <)f 
 reason to place a tax upon the product of his labors, 
 Si;ained amidst hardships and perils, moreover as th(!re 
 was virtually but litth^ use for tlie LC«>ld within the 
 country itself. 
 
 With this messa<j;"e to tlw interested public younuf 
 Evans approached the Editorial Sanctum. lie had 
 attaclied a fictitious name to the hitter and, takino- ad- 
 vantai^e of the absence of Mr. Hell, ])laced the communi- 
 cati(jn upon his table and hurried away, presently the 
 
HUNTING I*()K GOLD 
 
 277 
 
 Editor ciitcrod, picked up ihc .\raiius('ri|»t, road it luul 
 was just dij4(jstiiii» its (•oiit(Mits, wlicii ('aptaiii Kvans 
 made his aj)|)t'araiico. 
 
 "Look li(T(! Captain," said Mr. I Jell witli a smile, 
 "Ilcn^ is ail anoiiyiiious writer sittiiii^' down ujxxi you 
 folks pretty well, and lie is i-iujlit too, I tt'll you. I am 
 i;'oiii'j;' to piiMisli what he says at any rate. Just lo(jk at 
 that." 
 
 With these words he handed t,h(! ('a))tain tin; newly 
 re('(!ived communication, hut his friend had hardly 
 j^lanced at it, when Ik; exclaimed in utter amazement: 
 "Why, that is my son's handwritin*'-." 
 
 l>ut th(! letter was puhlished just the same, arid voum»" 
 Evatis liad written his fiist newspaper- arti(de to the 
 satisfaction of tht; P^ditor, if of no one; else. 
 
 In the ycuir IHG.l tin; Jlusso- American T(;le^n'ap]i 
 (Jompany hei^'an to cast ahout for the most advantancous 
 route, l)y which to lay their lines across J^ritish Colum- 
 bia from the Fraser River to tli(! coast. The chief 
 Hnperintendent of the company was Colonel 10. J^ulkley, 
 and I was advised hy Mr. Allan Erancis, the United 
 Statcis Consul, to report U{)OU thi^ country, situated 
 betw(;en these loni^itudes and IjordeririL,^ on tin; Kussiau 
 j)ossessions, so as to assist the Colotud in his choice of a 
 rout(!. Ilavinii;' traveled over tin; whoh; of that va,st 
 territory more than once, I could easily comply with 
 the sUL;;ii^estion, and 1 reproduce liere the nreater part of 
 my re{)ort, as it will serve to show the reader the 
 intimate knowledi^cs, I liad accpiired of a country hy 
 [)eriious wanderini^s and hazardous explorations. 
 
 After a few preliminary ri'marks I go on to say : 
 "Startinj^ from Fort Alexander on the l-'n-ser Kiver 
 the diiitanee to Fort Georyce is about 1.50 miles; from 
 F(»rt Gecjrge to Fort St. James on Stuart Lake, follow- 
 
i 
 
 M^ 
 
 i.ki 
 
 I 
 
 Pii 
 
 ifi ' 
 I 
 
 
 278 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 iiiu^ the course of the river, tlu' distjuioe is al)out 120 
 iiiiles, thence f'ollowiiii'' aloiis;; tiie l)aiil< of Stuart l^ake to 
 the Portai^e ahout Ht'ty miles, the; ))ortajj;e is ten niih-s, 
 from here to Naas Glee at the lower end of l^ahine 
 lake 100 miles, and from this point to Port Essinti^ton 
 is a distance of about 250 miles, makinii" Ji total of about 
 700 miles. 
 
 This was the route which naturallv suiXLCested itself, 
 l)ut I kn(!W of another more practicable, and susj^gestt'd 
 the fcjllowinj:^: "Startinsjj at the junction of the Quesnelle 
 and Fraser Rivers, keep alono; the east bank of the Phra- 
 ser for about fifteen miles till a small canyon is reached, 
 and there cross the river, the width from cliff to cliff be- 
 ino; only two hundred yards at this point. Follow up 
 the west bank of the river about thirty miles further, 
 then strike across in a northwesterly direction towards 
 the Stuart Ri\«'r; follow this river for about sixty miles 
 to F'ort St. James, on Stuart Lake; thence keep alono- 
 the south side of Stuart Lake to the ten-mile portaij^e 
 between thi«- water-shed and Bal)ine Lake. Continue 
 along the soutli side of Babine Lake to the Naas Glee; 
 follow down the river from tliis [)oint, until a canyon is 
 reached, distant from Naas Glee about one hundred 
 miles, and as far from the coast. 
 
 "This course appears to be more favorable for runninsj^ 
 the line. It is tolerably level, and is but lightly tim- 
 bered, and the river, from this canyon to the sea, is nav- 
 igable for batteaux, thus facilitating the transport of 
 wire, tools, etc. From this point, take a northwesterly 
 course till the river Stikine is reached, a distance of 
 about one hundred and fifty miles, and thus avoid the 
 Peak and Babine mountains. This will strike a point 
 on the last named river, which may be reached from the 
 coast by boats or canoes, and thus further facilitate 
 
HUNTINCr KOK (lOLD 
 
 27!» 
 
 transport, wliili; tliis coursu carries tlic liiuMicjirly two 
 liuiidred miles further nortli, tliroujj^li a j^nxxl country, 
 easy to travil ami work U[)om, and accessible by several 
 water-ways." 
 
 I further recommended tluit the Skeena River l)e 
 avoided, as it is very mountainous and difficult to travel. 
 I also advised as to the best method of traveling, by 
 making all |)ossil)le use of the water-ways as the easiest 
 means of transportinsjj material and supplies. 
 
 My report went on to say: "Boats adapted to the 
 Fraser River navi<ration, and capable of carryiiiL? five 
 tons dead weioht, can be built at Fort Alexander, or at 
 the mouth of the Quesnelle, where suitable timber may 
 be found in abundance. The size required would cost 
 about five hundred dollars, and none laryjer could be 
 used to any advantai^e. These boats would be re(juired 
 between the Quesnelle and Fort Alexander, and the 
 head of Stuart Lake, as well as on Babine Lake, while a 
 good wagon road can be made along the portage betwuen 
 the two lakes. 
 
 Boats of the size mentioned, will require a crew of 
 eight men. Four of them may be Indians who will be 
 found to work well, and the balance may be made up of 
 half-breeds or old servants of the Hudson Bay Company, 
 who can be liired in this locality for very moderate 
 prices. They are most excellent boatmen, good pilots 
 and capable of rendering much information and assistance. 
 
 As soon as the boats are ready, 1 would send a party 
 to the Junction of the Fraser and Stuart rivers to com- 
 mence operations from this point, keeping the boats en- 
 gaged in carrying up supplies in the meantime. Too 
 much attention cannot be paid to the management of the 
 boats for the distribution of material a'ld sujiplies at the 
 proper time and places which will facilitate operations 
 
" 
 
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 IMAGE EVALUATION 
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280 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 more than auytliiiig else, and I would therefore recom- 
 mend to have a well qualified man as superintendent 
 of the boats and to keep the same crews in the boats all 
 the time, provided they do their duty, as by so doing 
 much confusion and discontent will be avoided. Leaving 
 the junction of the two rivers, I would go to Stuart Lake 
 and commence operations, choosing the south side as the 
 one best adapted to the purpose. 
 
 "Havini'" commenced on Stuart lake I would take a 
 party to the portage and start the making of the road 
 there. This should be easily made, as the distance is 
 only ten miles, and the country presents a fine stretch 
 of rolling land; the pasture is good here, wild hay grow- 
 ing in abundance, which may be cut and stored in 
 sufficient <|uantity for any number of cattle and horses 
 i^b may be found desirable to keep through the winter. 
 At the same time men should start in, whip-sawing and 
 building canoes at the head of Babine lake, as the 
 canoes obtained here are made of cotton wood, and not 
 well adapted to carrying freight. 
 
 "In carrying cargoes across the lakes it may be found 
 necessary to do the principal work at night, when all is 
 calm, as in these high latitudes the wind often rises 
 during the day to a perfect gale, at times making the 
 sea so turbulent as to surprise any fresh water sailor. 
 
 "In runnino^ the line alonij: Babine Lake, the south 
 side will be found the one to be preferred, although the 
 hills are ruoijfed, but at the same time not very hiirh. 
 On the north side there are many large bays, while in 
 other places the land is rolling and clear for considera- 
 ble distances. The country is open to the northwest 
 from Naas Glee, where lie the Indian villages of Kiss- 
 pi-yaks and Kith-a-rath. 
 
 "In regard to the necessary operations to be undertak- 
 
!f\ 
 
 
 KOSKEEMO INDIAN CHIEFS. 
 
 UA'.IiJ 
 
282 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOT.D 
 
 Ifl 
 
 en on the seaboard, I would recommend that an expedi 
 tion, suppHed with all necessary materials, be dispatched 
 to Stikine River, as this will be a central point upon the 
 coast, on account of the river being navigable, as far 
 as is necessary, to a point through the coast range, 
 from whence a line may be run northwest to Sitka, and 
 another southeast to connect with Naas Glee." 
 
 The reader knows what it meant to be able to write 
 so exhaustive a report of a vast, and mostly unknown 
 territory. My exjterience had cost tremendous efforts 
 and great suffering. I had gone hungry and weary for 
 many days, in danger of my life among savage Indians, 
 never knowing when they might turn upon me, and it 
 may, therefore, appear excusable .that I felt hurt and in- 
 dignant at the fact that no proper acknowledgment was 
 ever accorded me in regard to a report which contained 
 much valuable information, and some practical advice. 
 
 Let me not pass over this period of my stay in Brit- 
 ish Columbia, without revertinix once more to Dean 
 Canal. It will be remembered that mv first visit to this 
 inlet was not fraught with any result as regards pene- 
 trating the mountains, and nnding: a route into the inte- 
 rior, but later on, I succeeded in this respect. I found 
 that having overcome the difficulties which first presented 
 themselves to me, my efforts were richly rewarded. I 
 came upon a magnificent country of rich, rolling forest 
 land, splendid pastures, and altogether, a country pre- 
 sentinix the iMJssibilities of thousandsof homes beinu; built 
 in this region. Rivers and lakes, forests and meadows, 
 varied in pleasing order, and here, indeed, is the short- 
 est route from the coast to Fort Fraser, antl further 
 on to Fort James or Fort Georixe. The river Nechaco 
 runs southwest from T'raser Lake, and dividing itself, 
 runs through a number of other lakes, until it ia finally 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 28a 
 
 lost in the Tazella Lakes. I understand that latclv a 
 move has been made to settle this land, upon the advan- 
 tages of which I reported to the government years ago, 
 and I verily believe that this will become one of the 
 most prominent portions of British Columbia. Through 
 this country will, no doubt, run the projected railr<>ad 
 from Fort George to the coast, and I predict a splendid 
 future for the settlers on Dean Canal and Salmon River. 
 
 In 1886, when the Hon. John Robson was Minister 
 of Mines, I was aoain in British Columbia. At that 
 time the Granite Creek District had attracted nmch at- 
 tention, and I was bent upon making a close examina- 
 tion of the various localities in this district. I subse- 
 quently made an official report to Mr. Robson, and as it 
 may serve to illustrate the condition of that region at 
 the time of my visit, I here append the principal points 
 of its contents, which may not be without scnne interest. 
 
 I begin where I pass the so-called Summit House, 
 and soon found the geological formation to be real gran- 
 ite, below which the slate formation commences and 
 contiimes all the wav down. Followiniij the trail down 
 Whipsaw Gulch, I struck the gravel benches and roll- 
 ing ridges, covering a large extent of country and clear- 
 ly showing the great wash of an earlier period of the 
 earth's history, when, 1 take it, large bodies of water, 
 receding: from the lakes, caused the formation of ijrravel 
 ridges, gulches, creeks and ravines,- where, indeed, one 
 would expect to find gold. The wash is very extensive, 
 and some of the creeks and gulches had been prospected 
 and a small quantity of gold found, but not entiugh to 
 pay for working. 
 
 Nine-Mile Creek and Whipsaw Gulch had been pros- 
 pected chiefiy by Chinamen, and the Mongolian had 
 stuck to it witii all the tenacity, characterizing his race, 
 
 m\ 
 
284 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 m 
 
 ■ Mi 
 
 but liad been forced to jjjiveiipand al)andon tlio di^^gings. 
 The soiitli fork ot'tlie Similkaiiieen had also been pros- 
 pected for a stretch of fifteen or twenty niiU'S, but 
 nothing of conse(|uenee liad been found. Here is .situated 
 AlHsoii's coppir mine, and I saw some very fine speci- 
 mens of peacock ore from tliis section. 
 
 All the way down the ridges gravel (U'curs, and, as I 
 neared the river, some of the low l)enches looked very 
 favorable. I found several Chinamen at work and 
 further up the stream a company of white men were 
 preparmg to go prospecting. The gravel was heavy 
 and did not wash offreadilv, and the ijrold, bein«j;' fine, no 
 doubt got away through any sluices with fall enough to 
 carry oft' gravel. I took it for granted that these 
 extensive gravel benches will never be washed off" and 
 that working on bars and bends will be the extent of 
 work done on the Similkameen for many years to come. 
 
 Leaving Allison's I took the trail for Granite. It led 
 up steep grades at the back of Tulameen, and on this 
 road I met numerous prospectors returning disgusted, 
 in fact, I had not seen so many sad miners in a heap 
 since the days of '49 in California, and I could not re- 
 frain from telling some of them that their poor experience 
 should serve them as a warninLir ni^t to leave house and 
 home agidn to tempt fickle fortune. 
 
 Arrived at the fiat oiiposite Granite city, I camped 
 and made a thorough examination of the far-fauied 
 Granite Creek. The distance from the river to the 
 forks of the creek is four or five miles, and the hills, 
 bordering it, rise very abruptly forming, so to s[)eak, a 
 natural ground-sluice so that any gold on the hillsides 
 nmst find its way into the creek; but nothing like bench 
 or hill-diiririiiiis had as vet been worked with success 
 with the exception of the larger fiats at the mouth of 
 
HUNTINO FOR GOLD 
 
 285 
 
 Granite Creek. Opposite the town a quartz leclj^e had 
 just been h)cated and work started, and a nuinl)er of 
 claims on the Tuhiuieen beh)\v tlie mouth of the Granite 
 were also beinsf worked. 
 
 Leaving Granite I took the trail for Otter Flat, 
 situated about seven mile.s distant. On the larije Flats 
 above Granite Creek I noticed several Chinamen, who 
 divided their attention between mining on the river and 
 raising potatoes and other vegetables in large quantities 
 higher up. The u})per part of the trail led through a 
 most beautiful country of the finest pasture land and to 
 all a])pearance afibrding a better location for the herd 
 than for the miner. The town of Otter is situated on a 
 large fine fiat at the junction of the river and creek, 
 being originally a Hudson Bay Company's Camp, and 
 the old Bri«>'ade trail from Hope comes down the rido'e 
 on the opposite side of the river, but it had ceased to be 
 used and was blocked with fallen timber. The t(>wn, 
 when I visited it, consisted of two stores, two saloons, a 
 bakery, conducted by a chinaman, a branch postoftice 
 and a news depot, but its few residents looked forward 
 to, what they considered, a promising future. 
 
 I then took the Nicola Valley trail and went to Bowl- 
 der Creek, where I found several companies holding on 
 to their locations with great determination, although 
 they were scarcely making ^ wages. One shaft, sunk 
 forty feet, proved a failure, while others, sunk in shallov/^ 
 ground, paid well, and Collins' Gulch on the other side 
 of the river paid wage^J but was about worked out. 
 Here 1 was shown a piece of gold, weighing one ounce 
 and three-quarters, but it was regarded as something 
 phenomenal in these parts. On Cedar Creek, two miles 
 above Otter Flat, several companies were at work, some 
 of them making small wages and others nothing at all; 
 
280 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 1.1 ! 
 
 there was but little excitement, and evervbodv felt 
 like giving it up. 
 
 On the Tulanieen, above Otter Flat, a San Francisco 
 company had located, but they were not ready to test 
 their claim, as they required special machinery to work 
 their diggings, which were very deep. 
 
 The Golden Crown Company was getting ready to 
 commence operations, and the Beaver Oompany had a 
 ditch out of Slate Creek and a powerful overshot wheel 
 working an eight inch pump. Upon striking the granite 
 sand, which seems to prevail generally on the Flats of 
 the Tulameen, the water came in too strong for the 
 pump and stayed any further progress for the time being. 
 This company owned thirty-five claims and had a front- 
 age of 2,000 feet on the river. It was undoubtedly the 
 finovst mining property on the Tulameen; and the focili- 
 ties for working could not be surpassed, as there was a 
 fall of twenty-five feet in the entire length of the claim. 
 When I was there the company was about to sink an 
 other shaft in a more favorable pliice. 
 
 At California Company's claim expectations ran high, 
 two dams had been put in, and good results were antici- 
 pated. It was located in a canyon and there were 
 several other companies in the vicinity, some of them 
 worked by Chinese. The Colorado Company had just 
 taken out a lump, weighing nearly six ounces, but that 
 sort of iiUggets were not so common here as they were 
 in certain places on the Yuba gold-fields in the early days. 
 But such revelations of gold may never be seen again in 
 this era of ^jeoloojical events. Slate Creek was consid 
 ered the best location among the many Tulameen claims, 
 and yet it yielded barely five dollars a day. This creek 
 runs through the center of the Beaver Company's prop- 
 erty. 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 287 
 
 A well-defined quartz ledge could be located near 
 Eagle Creek, on the Tulameen, but nothing had been 
 done, as yet, to test it. After all, I came to the con- 
 clusion that there was considerable gold to be taken out 
 of the Tulameen River when the requisite appliances 
 should be put upon the ground. 
 
 As I glance over the early pages of this book, I re- 
 view, at the same time, the early history of modern gold- 
 finding. It has never been surpassed; it will never be 
 equaled, 1 believe. The gold which the forty-niner be- 
 held in the dawn of California's most remarkable epoch, 
 was like the dawn of day, when the sun throws its rose- 
 ate hues over all the heavens. As the day wears on, 
 the golden sunbeams still shine down upon us, but from 
 a nmch smaller compass. So, to-day, the gold-hunter 
 has a much smaller field in which to operate. And as 
 the sun at meridian, appears to be much further removed 
 from us than when it rises, so, to-day, the gold appears 
 to be much further removed from the miner than it was 
 of yore. Will the day end with another glorious burst 
 of gold, or will the sun be veiled with heavy clouds as 
 it sets upon the present era? Who can tell. 
 
Ii I 
 
 ■' ! ■ i 
 1* ' i 
 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Iiuliaus — The Yiilue of Natives — Medicine ]\[eu iind Superstition 
 — All Incident at Yuclatan Villef^c-— Heart Disease and no 
 Bullet — INIeuioir From tlie Naas Kiver — Singular Customs 
 —The Price of Flour— The White Man and the Red :\ran— 
 How They Died — Scarlet Fever — Indian Mechanics — A Prom- 
 isinfif Countrv. 
 
 I cannot here refrain from once more revertino- to the 
 Indiiins of British Columbia, who indeed phiyed a prom- 
 inent part in the early history of caucasion invasion of 
 their country. In many instances they contested most 
 hitterlv, the forward march of the white man, while in 
 others they became his faithful friends. Perhaps it 
 would have been ini))ossible to penetrate to the fastnesses 
 of some of these reoions but for the guidance of a native, 
 who directed the steps of the adventurer, showed him 
 the trails and conducted him, on foot or in his canoe, 
 into the interior of the country. 
 
 The relation which we assumed toward some of the 
 Indians was that of guardians who became responsible 
 for their welfare, and must render account to their friends 
 and relatives in case of anything happening to them 
 wliilst traveling in our company. They were valued as so 
 much cattle by their own people, and in case of an acci- 
 dent, restitution could always be made b}- presenting their 
 friends with blankets or other goods, nmch after the 
 manner in which modern grief is assuaged by demanding 
 hard cash from a railroad company to make up for the 
 untimely death of a relative who has lost his life through 
 
 2S8 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 289 
 
 their iieo'lect, or whilst travehiiii in tlieir cjire. I still 
 havo a lively recolKctiuii ot* nearly losing two Indians, 
 who would have cost nie something like sixty blankets, 
 had they perished in the river where we capsized, and I 
 admit tljat, as I saw them carrieil down the stream, I 
 was more concerned ahout tlie heavv damages, than I 
 was ahout the lives of the two natives whose struijitjjles 
 finally brought them safely ashore, much to my relief. 
 In fact, in all such cases the first thouglit that seemed 
 naturally to occur to one, was a quick calculation of how 
 many blankets one would have to pay for so nmch native 
 fiesh and blood. 
 
 Superstition reigned supreme among the Indians, and 
 it was considerably increased by the weird and singular 
 action on the part of the medicine man who held sway 
 over the natives by mystifying them with his phantastic 
 actions. The medicine man played altogether a curious 
 })art in the Indian community, and was in many cases 
 both revered and abhorl-ed at the same time. He was 
 looked up to because of the superior knowledge which 
 he was believed to possess, and feared because of the 
 evil power he was often supposed to exercise, and I am 
 here reminded of an incident which goes to prove the 
 superstition of the Indians in legard to the possibilities 
 of the medicine man. 
 
 According to the usual custom amonofst the Indians, 
 of leaving their villages in a body, every man woman 
 and child in the Yuclatan villaiije was about to take to 
 their canoes, carrying with them all their belongings; but, 
 just as they were pushing off from the shore, it was dis 
 covered that the medicine man was not in his accustomed 
 place in his canoe. His reputation was bad in the 
 villao-e, and he was feared as well as hated, and had it 
 not been considered an omen of bad luck to depart with- 
 
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 HUNTINC. FOR CiOLD 
 
 ■II 
 
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 out him, tli«'\- would i>lii(llv liavi' left liiiii lu'liiiid. 
 Wondcri'iii;' wluit coidd luive Ijccoiiii' of liiiii, tlic yoiiii^ 
 bucks ctdli'd liiiii loudly l>y naiiu', l)Ut rccciN iiiL? no re- 
 spouse, tear l)e*;au to take j)ossessi(>ii of the dc[)art iiii;' 
 Indians, when suddenly an old s(|uaw cried out in a 
 suppressed tone: ''See him on the t(»j» of the house I" 
 
 Evervhodv looked in the direction, and, sure enough, 
 beheld the hideous form of the Medicine man on the 
 rid^e of a roof, crouchinjj^ in a half-sittinn" posture, jtoint- 
 inii" at them with one loiiu 'can finder and assuminu: an 
 air of mystery which was well calculated to pu/zle the 
 Indians. Suddenlv the attention of evervhodv was 
 drawn from thi' old man p(;rched on the roof to a younu' 
 buck who had been standing in the shallow water 
 alongside n\' his canoe, and with the others v'iewing 
 the singulai- scene. With a loud i)iercini:: cr\' he fell 
 forward without warning; there was a s])lash in the 
 water, and his astonished and horrified conu'ade drew 
 his lifeless boilv into their canoe. 
 
 Although not a sound but the voices or the Indians 
 had hven heard, still the general impression was that tiie 
 medicine man had killed the youth bv silentlv seiKhn*'' a 
 bullet into his heart. The women set up a wail, and 
 the bucks stood about in a sullen and defiant manner, 
 waitinu' oidv for one word of encourai>'ement to aveiM'f 
 the cruel death of one of theii' nund)er. 
 
 Suddenly a brave in red paint stepped to the front. 
 *vLet us kill the nuirderer!" he cried; and with ayell and 
 a whoop they made a mad rush for the hut, upon the 
 roof of whi<'h the old uian had perched himself 'J'hey 
 
 were l)ent u})()n murder, ami tlie me(hcuK' man [)erceive(i 
 it; so he let go of the ridge and allowed Inmself to drop 
 down behind the hut, but in so doing he rolled over and 
 intiicted a hideous wound in the head. 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 The Tndijins found liiui buliirul the liut, lyiiis? on tlio 
 ground and blcedinjjj profusely from a L^apiiio^ wound. 
 Tliey drao-jrcd him out and would certainly havt; murdered 
 him, had not a white man who hap|)ened to be present, 
 dissuaded them by arguing to them that the medicine 
 man, not having a gun, could not have fired a shot at 
 anybody. 
 
 For awhile the natives seemed pacified, and the white 
 man, being something of a surgeon and desirous of dis- 
 covering the cause of death, undertook a post-mortem 
 examination. He took out the heart of the dead man 
 and found in it a clot of blood which had undoubtedly 
 stopped the circulation and caused the sudden colapse; 
 but the natives, seeing it, innnediately took it to be the 
 substance that had been fired at the dead buck by the 
 wicked medicine man and once more prepared to kill the 
 alleged slayer of their friend. Again the white man in- 
 terfered and saved the object of their hatred, but the 
 incident will show the mysterious powers attributed to 
 the medicine man and the manner in which he was re- 
 garded by the natives 
 
 The Indians on the Naas River were very numerous 
 in the early days. They were generally clad in fur coats 
 and dirty blankets and did not present a very inviting 
 appearance. But they were a careless, indifferent lot; 
 they spent the greater part of the time in dancing, 
 feastinof and smoking and were so much given to the in- 
 dulgence in pleasure that they entirely forgot to put 
 sometliing by for a rainy day, and, when winter came, 
 they generally liad to go starving for months, notwith- 
 standing that the river abounded in salmon, and they 
 might have secured enough food to carry them over the 
 winter, had they not been so given to anuisements. 
 
 The medicine li^an exercised the greatest power also 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 20:^ 
 
 in these quarters and often held the ]»eople in ahjectsuh- 
 jecrion. I have seen many singular proofs of the manner 
 in which one man's mind may direct that of anotlier until 
 it l)econies perfect master of the weaker one to such a 
 degree that tlu.' latter may be made to imagine almost 
 anything. These "doctors" professed to be able to "ill- 
 wish" anybody or to throw any* particular spell over their 
 subjects who not only believed in the possibility of such 
 a thing but went so far as to suffer both physical and 
 mental pain in the firm conviction that it had been forced 
 upon them by the invocation of the medicine man, who 
 could command the evil spirits. Thus it has often 
 happened that a young buck would look ill and suffering 
 and when asked what was the matter, would explain that 
 he was sick, the doctor had cast his spell over him, and 
 he was dying. And, indeed, it was not by any means a 
 rare occurence, that young men in this plight would pos- 
 itively refuse to take eitlier food or medicine and would 
 gradually become weaker and weaker through sheer 
 exhaustion and fear. These illustrations would tend to 
 show,that if the Indians do not know what we callminil- 
 cure the}^ certainly understand its opposite-mind-killing, 
 and the success with which they practice it may demon- 
 strate the correctness of a theory entertained by some 
 white people in our days. 
 
 But it must not be supposed that these doctors prac- 
 ticed their noble profession for nothing. On the con- 
 trary their greed often knew no bounds, and this was one 
 of the reasons, why they were so much detested. They 
 carried with them a small box corresponding with the 
 orthodox satchel of their medical confreres of more civil- 
 ized communities; but, in place ofcostly instruments and 
 an assortment of pills, the box contains bones and beads, 
 feathers, stones and all sorts of trinkets. Naturally the 
 
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 294 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 owner surroiuulod liis casket witli a great deal ofiny.stery 
 and it did at times contain some curious oljects, sucli as 
 fingers and other parts oftlie human anatomy in a ghastly 
 dis])lay. And, when the learned doctor has exercised 
 his inHuence over any particular individual, or number of 
 individuals he put in his charge with the same discretion as 
 does the physician of a civilized connnunity who never for- 
 gets to distinguish between the millionaire and the 
 pauper, and the wealth of the medicine man was meas- 
 ured by the quantity of furs and blankets he had exacted 
 from his unfortunate victim^\ 
 
 The Indians practiced polygamy in proportion to their 
 wealth. Ordinarily speaking an Indian would have but 
 one squaw, but, if he were rich and a chief of inqjortance, 
 it was a common thing to increase his household by 
 adding one or more wives to the original one. When a 
 girl was of marriageable age her lower lip was pierced 
 and a pin inserted. This pin had a flat end, which re- 
 mained in the mouth, while the rest protruded through 
 the lip and over the chin an inch or more, Asa matter 
 of course it gave the girl a very hideous appearatice in 
 the judgment of a Caucasian connoisseur of female 
 beauty; but according to the ideas of savagedom, Venus 
 lierself is defective, in as much as her lip was never 
 pierced. The marriage ceremony was the simplest one 
 imaginable, being entirely void of any rite or other im- 
 posing formalitv. A irreat feast was arranged and at it 
 the names of the bride and groom were called out, this 
 constituting the tying of the nuptial knot, while the 
 bride's brothers, uncles, and other relatives received hand- 
 some presents, consisting of blankets and furs often in 
 large quantities. The wedding feast generally concluded 
 with dancing and singing, which was kept up for many 
 hours. They had a perfect system of dividing their 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 295 
 
 couHiiuiiity into groups. Tliis I have found to bo the 
 case amoiiij: the Indians all over North America, and the 
 • )hject seeuis to be to prevent too close intermarriage. 
 The groups or "crests" are usually called after some 
 animal, such as the wolf, the bear, the eagle and so on; 
 and members of the same crest do not marry. 
 
 In no civilized comnumity does a more complete code 
 of etiquette exist than I found among th(} Naas River 
 Indians. Every chief was accorded the privileges of 
 his particular rank, and any attempts to assume a higher 
 rank than the one to which he was entitled, was at once 
 resented The chiefs on the Naas used the totem poles 
 as indications of their social standing, the same as I 
 afterwards found to be the case in Alaska; the hio^ht of 
 the pole denoting the raidv of its owner, and it was not 
 uncommon for two chiefs to disagree U[)on this matter. 
 I remember one such case, where a chief put up a 
 pole, much taller than he was entitled to, the result 
 beint; a fiyjht with another chief whose rank he had en- 
 crouched upon. The offender was wounded in the arm 
 at the beginning of the fight, whereupon he immediately 
 submitted and cut his pole down to the regulation 
 hight. 
 
 Their principal food consisted of dried salmon. During 
 the summer months the fish was cau^jht in the rivers, 
 sun-dried and put away for winter use. The natives 
 also gathered different kinds of berries, which they pre- 
 served in grease; but one of their most importantarticles 
 of food was a loaf, made from seaweed. The seaweed 
 when gathered, was properly prepared and pressed into 
 cakes or loaves, which were much relished by the natives. 
 
 Now-a-days, as a matter of course, the Indians eat 
 many kinds of food, which have been introduced by the 
 white men, but even as late as 1877 this was not the 
 
296 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 u i I 
 
 U 
 
 Ml 
 
 U' 
 
 " m 
 
 case. At that time flour cost ten cents per ptjuiid, and 
 the Indians could not atiord to buy it. The Hudson 
 Bay Company was the first to give the native an idea of 
 trading, and the latter soon learned that he had to pay 
 for trade. In the spring and fall he would come to the 
 trading posts with his season's catch of furs or fish and, 
 if he Avislied to buy a Flint- lock musket, the bargain 
 would be made by placing the musket, end up in the 
 ground, after which the Indian was told to put his furs 
 down, one upon the other, until the level of the other 
 end of the sfun was reached. Then the trader took the 
 pile of skins, and the Indian took the musket. 
 
 Among the many curious traditions existing among 
 the Naas river Indians, none perhaps is more character- 
 istic than the narrative of how the red and the white 
 man met for the first time. The storv in substance is as 
 follows: A number of Indians were fishinir in a larj^e 
 canoe at the mouth of the Naas River, when suddenly 
 a thick mist surrounded them. After awhile thev 
 heard a strange noise, not far distant, and they at once 
 thought that some evil spirit of the great ocean had 
 risen from the deep to swallow them, wherefore they 
 hauled in their cedar lines and seizing their paddles, 
 pulled for the shore as fast as they could. But the 
 dread noise did not subside, on the contrary it seemed 
 to follow close upon them, and in fear and trembling 
 they expected every moment to encounter some fearful 
 monster. At last they reached land and jumped ashore, 
 and there they stood looking into the dense fog, anxiously 
 watching tlie sound, which grew louder and louder, as it 
 evidently approached the terror-stricken Indians. But 
 what can describe their amazement and consternation, 
 when they suddenly saw a large boat of a strange and 
 unknown build gliding out of the mist towards the ver}' 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 •207 
 
 place where they stood, the boat being tilled with white 
 men? 
 
 The strange appearance of the pale-faces created the 
 greatest sur[)rise anioi , the Indians, who now witnessed 
 the white men landing and preparing to camp; but tliey 
 were soon to behold even <jreater wonders. The stranojers 
 beckoned the Indians toward them and sii^ned to them 
 to brinLj some iisli. One of them carried somethin<»' 
 resembling a stick, which he pointed at a bird Hying 
 overhead. Then tliey saw fire and smoke issuing from 
 the stick, while a thunderinL' sound called all the echoes 
 of the mountains to answer its sharp, sudden crack, and 
 the bird fell lifeless to the ground with blood upon its 
 feathers. Then died all the Indians, by wdiich expression 
 is meant in the language of the Naas River people, that 
 they were fairl}' taken back with surprise. When they 
 had again recovered themselves, they questioned t)ne 
 another as to how thev felt, and whether thev were all 
 alive, and then, in response to a sign by the white men, 
 they prepared to make a fire in their usual way by rub- 
 bing two pieces of wood together. , 
 
 But the pale-faces laughed, and one of them, seizing a 
 handful of dr}^ grass, applied a flint and steel to it and 
 all of a sudden there was a blaze. Then the Indians 
 died ao^ain. 
 
 Tile white man now gave them to understand bv siyns 
 that they desired some fish, boiled, and the Indians pre- 
 pared to heat stones in the fire, according to their way 
 of boiling by putting hot stones into cedar vessels, filled 
 with water. But the white men smiled at them, and 
 placing an iron pot over the fire, began cooking in their 
 fashion. The Indians had never seen anvthing like this, 
 and thev could not understand whv the bottom did not 
 burn out of the vessel, and, indeed, so great was their 
 
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 fill 
 
 
 
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 298 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 surj)rise that tliey again "died," as is explained above. 
 
 But, after the fish were eaten, Ib*^ white men put in 
 some rice to cook. By and by it began to swell, and 
 the asto!iished Indians saw it rising and moving about 
 in the bubbling water, and, thinking it was something 
 alive, they cried in disgust; ''Maggots, Maggots!" But 
 when the rice had been properly cooked, the white men 
 prepared to eat it by pouring molasses over it, and the 
 natives at once surmised that this was the grease of 
 dead people and refused to tai-te it when it was handed 
 to them. But, when they saw the white men eating 
 the boiled rice and apparently rolisliing it, they died 
 again. 
 
 Other similar thin<''3 occured, which in the consider- 
 ation of the Indians appeared like miracles, and when- 
 ever another wonder was worked they died. Then 
 came the time for the white men to die. Tlie Indians 
 went away a little distance and when hidden from sight, 
 thev put on their paint and head-dress and besought the 
 great Noh-Noh to as-^ist them. Returning to the camp, 
 they walked slowly ai! 1 majestically, with firm and 
 steady, step and head 0(^wed, into the presence of the 
 strangers, but when they raised their heads and the 
 white men looked into their wonderful faces, tliey were 
 surprised beyond measure, and they also died. 
 
 As traders, the Indians have always impressed me as 
 being very keen, although as a matter of course, they 
 never received the real value for their goods. But as 
 they could not possibly ascertain how much their furs 
 were worth in the market of the wldte man, the question 
 became entirely relative, and so far as their knowledge 
 of the transaction went, they were often particularly 
 sharp. One incident occurs to me just now, which will 
 show their manner of calculating. The Hudson Bay 
 
HUNTING F(1R (iOLD 
 
 200 
 
 Company had liired a nuinher of Indians for tlic pur- 
 ]»oso of takint( freii^lit up tlio river Skeena in their 
 canoes. The party was in diarge of u wliitr man, and 
 tlie Indians were paid so nmeli per day, everyone who 
 owned a canoe receiving double; in other words, a canoe 
 and ''a man counted- the same. The c()m[)any supplied 
 })art of their provisions, but on this trip they nearly ran 
 out of stores; for, having covered only one-half of the 
 distance to be traveled, the fresh jt in the river so in- 
 creased the current that no headway could be made, and 
 the whole party was obliged to go ashore and camp for 
 ten days. Gradually as provision, became scarcer, 
 rations were reduced, and at last orders were given that 
 only one spoonfid of sugar would be allowed each man 
 per meal. The Indians are very fond of sugar, and in 
 this party was an old man. who had a particularly 
 sweet tooth. He was the owner of a canoe, and he 
 made use of this circumstance to help himself to an extra 
 supply. When the sugar tin was passed round, he 
 helped himself to one sxioonful, "This is for me," he 
 said. Then taking another spoonful he remarked dryly 
 "And here is for the ciiioe." 
 
 Their idea of justice is often very striking. At one 
 time some voung Indian i^irls in a mission school on the 
 river Naas brouiifht the charixe auainst a young man 
 that during prayers he had looked at them through his 
 fingers and made grimaces. The Indians summoned 
 the accused before their council; and severely reprimanded 
 him, reminding him of the reverence which was due to 
 the occasion, and which he had so sadly forgottei\. 
 The youth admitted the otlense, and after a scorching 
 lecture was fined in a small amount. The council then 
 called the young girls in and admonished them, saying 
 that if they had kept their eyes closed and attended to 
 
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 300 
 
 HTTNTINO FOR GOLD 
 
 their prayers, tlioy" would iiotluave noticed tlie indecorous 
 action of tlie younuj man: and tliey in turn were fined for 
 their alleij^ed impropriety. 
 
 The Indians have a or(3;it dread of diseases. Ilev. E. 
 A. Green informs me tliat wlien scarlet fever broke out 
 on the Naas, in '87, for the first time, the Indians held 
 a council to discus the matter. It was reported among 
 them that the fever had been sent up the river in a box^ 
 and was being served out among them as a punishment 
 because some of them had not joined the mission, and it 
 was decided to nuirder Mr. Gi-een and his familv. Just 
 then, however, the fever broke out in the Missionary's 
 own home, and they at once saw their mistake, and 
 were profuse in offering their sympathies to the family. 
 Mr, Green has lived amonof the Naas River Indians 
 for manv vears, and done nmch nrood work amonuf them. 
 The Reverend ixentleman holds a hio'h opinion of tlie na- 
 tives, characterizing them as a manly people. 
 
 But, as the Indian of British Colund)ia has advanced 
 in the course of years, so has t^at splendid countr}- in- 
 creased in importance as the explorers laid open to the 
 world at large the rich fields it contains, where prosj)erity 
 may be reaped. Foremost among these explorers stand 
 the pioneers of the Hudson Bay Company, but they left 
 mucli undone, which was not accomplished until the 
 Fraser River Gold-diuuintrs were discovered. Then 
 came the miner, and with his natural lust for adventure, 
 he repeated what he had done in Cahfornia years ago, 
 and forced open highways and by-ways that had never 
 been thought of before, thus taking the first active step 
 in the general and final development of a magnificent 
 country. Let all who took a hand in the work rejoice ! 
 Their trials were great, their labors hard to perform, 
 but the result will prove a great and glorious one. 
 
ADVKNTURES 
 
 IN 
 
 PANAMA, 
 
 ^11 
 
f 
 
 ii 
 
 I! I 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 h 
 
CHAl^TEK I. 
 
 Takinf2f a Rest — A New Friend — (^ueer ConverHation — How Vaii- 
 Hiekles Du^ Gold- My (ireatest C?haiu'e--Panaina tlie IMucc 
 — Dt'imrture — ACuriouH Old (Utv — Difficult iMountain Trails 
 — Down With Fever — Aii Indian (Iraveyard — l)ig<,nn<,' For 
 (Jold — Potterv (ialorc — A Curious Whistle — »My Collection 
 Spoiled — Movin<,' to Other Parts. 
 
 In tlic fall of the veur 1H74 I was staviiiu' ii> San 
 Francisco, taking a rest. During this period 1 paid fre- 
 quent visits to my brothers-in-law, Artemis and Doug- 
 las Davison, who, like myself, were old California mi- 
 ners, and always on the lookout for any new enterprise 
 in the way of gold-hunting. We were often talking 
 over former davs and wonderino; to ourselves when and 
 where the next excitement would break out, for, al- 
 though we all realized that we were not "so young as 
 we used to he," we were all in good health and full ot 
 vi<'or eao:er to nluni'e into some fresh undertakinir for 
 the !?ake of shiiiuiu: ooKl. 
 
 There is an old aday-e which savs: "Once bitten, twice 
 
 shy." It may be true in certain respects, I have nt) 
 
 doubt, but in regard to the i)ioneer miners of Cahforn la, 
 
 I never found that it held s^tjod, on the contrarv, defeat 
 
 seemed to urgfe them on to new ventures. And so it 
 
 happened that the three of us had not yet given up our 
 
 worship of the golden calf, principally because it had 
 
 always got away from us, after we had caught it, and 
 
 was yet roaming at large in some, to us, unknown place. 
 
 If the opportunity, however, should present itself to run 
 
 it down in whatever clime, we were prepared to chase 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 the Hyinltolical hoviiie initil we liud punned Iiiin, and like 
 il .s|)id(.'r w<itc]iini»: for a i\v to ^jet into liis wel), we wore 
 layini( wait, anxious for our chance. It was introchiced 
 to us by a yGun«jf jjfentleinan l»y tlie name of A. T. Van- 
 sickles in such a manner that it fairly took us old miners 
 aback and made us think tliat we had the softest ''snap" 
 on band, ever presented tt) anyone, liunting for the pre- 
 cious metal. 
 
 One day we were talking to our new friend, Vansick- 
 les, when he told us something about Panama, whence 
 he had just arrived. "Gold," he said in answer to an 
 in()uiry. "You bet there is gold; why, the country is 
 full of it. Hard to get at, you say? Not a })it of it. 
 I found lots of it and can get as nnich more as I care 
 for. 
 
 We pricked up our ears, as a matter of course, and 
 began to talk mining to him right away. But he did 
 not know a rocker from a pan, nor a sluice box from a 
 diamond drill, and we commenced to think he had merely 
 been having a joke at our expense. 
 
 "But how in the world did you sret the gold?" I 
 asked. 
 
 "Dug it out of the graves 1" he said, perfectly uncon- 
 cerned, speaking as if it was an every day occurence in 
 that country to dig gold out of graves. 
 
 I must confess I did not at once relish the idea to turn 
 suddenly from the honest occupation of a gold digger, to 
 something bordering on the nefarious trade of body 
 snatching, and I asked him to explain a little further, 
 what he really meant. 
 
 "Well," he said, "I learned that the old Indians in 
 their days used to bury their dead — that is the wealthy 
 ones — with large portions of the treasure they possessed. 
 I was told furthermore that old Spanish adventurers 
 
 th 
 
HUNTING FOR COLD 
 
 806 
 
 liael opened tlie i;raves of Inea cliief'H and luid taken 
 as much as 200 j)()unds of jjfoM from a sinj^Ie jj;rave, and 
 so I made up my mind that I couM |)lay the same name. 
 ConstMjuently 1 made friends witli an Indian, wiio 
 jiointed out to me one of tlie ohl Inca cemeteries in tlie 
 Interioi', and siiowed me wljere 1 miiiiit diu" witli some 
 success. My j^uide was so scared of the possihle advent 
 of tile spirit of tlie deceased chief, that lie <|uickly made 
 off, l)Ut, as I liad no fears on tiiat score, I set to work 
 with a spade 1 had bought, and very soon found that I 
 . liad struck something. I was fairly dazzled, when I 
 came upon gold and silver bracelets of heavy patterns, 
 and other ornaments, mingled with all kinds of useful 
 and decorative articles, many of them exceedingly costly. 
 I felt as if I had suddenly entered a fairyland of wealth, 
 and hiding as much of the precious find as I cared to 
 carry away, I made ott* for the time being, and upon 
 arriving at the nearest town, soon realized (juite ;•. hand- 
 some sum, on what I had brought \vith me. Since then 
 I have done a jjood deal of grave digsjjing, and with i<-ro- 
 nounced success, and on the last grave I emptied, I 
 realized about a thousand dollars for a couple of hours 
 work. 
 
 As Mr. Yansickles finished his storv, he iiiiiilcd a 
 couple of twenties in his pocket, and the words he had 
 spoken, togetherwith this sound, produced an effect upon 
 us, as though we had been listening to some charmino- 
 song, accompanied by sweet music. Here was a ])ropo- 
 sition. To exchano-e the hard rock in the dark tunnels 
 for the easy work of uncovering dead Indians, and in a 
 few hours enrich ourselves with treasures they certainly 
 had no more use for. Artemis was no less struck w^ith 
 the idea than I was, and it did not take us long to make 
 up our minds, that, after all, Panama was the place 
 
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306 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 m ' 
 
 if ^ 
 
 ■ - ti- H 
 
 where we were destined to make our fortune, and as Mr. 
 Vansickles offered to ijfo down with us, we made the 
 necessary preparations to proceed to the Isthnms and 
 make the big haul of our Hfe. 
 
 It was but the matter of a few days to get all in readi- 
 ness, and the next steamer for Panama carried all three 
 of us southward. I do not think that I have ever felt 
 so elated in all my life, as I felt when we steamed over 
 the waters of the blue Pacific. The waves, as they 
 danced about the bow of the steamer and glimmered in 
 the light of the sun, looked like so nmch golden spray. 
 The sky, as it reflected the setting sun in the far horizon, 
 appeared like one mass of golden banks. Hope itself 
 glittered like gold in my thoughts and dreams alike, and 
 I felt more certain than ever that at last the hour had 
 come, when I should attain that reward which every 
 gold hunter has a right to look for. We had money 
 enouiijh with us to suffice for four or five months: we had 
 a splendid outfit, conprising everything we could possibly 
 have need for, and accompanied by a man who had dug 
 the gold in these parts before, failure seemed impossible. 
 We did not think for a moment that the steamer, which 
 carried us, went quickly enough. The days passed 
 slowly, and the nights were sleepless; for the anticipation 
 of opr cominor fortune rendered us nervous and lestless, 
 and when we came to the end of our voyage and stepped 
 ashore in Panama, we were greatly pleased. 
 
 I cannot pass over my entrance in Panama without 
 briefly mentioning the impression I received of this an- 
 cient town, which has since become so famous, while its 
 name has cost men millions of dollars, for the sake of en- 
 riching a few unscrupulous speculators, who have now 
 received the just punishment for their unsatiable greed. 
 The city, which has, or had then, about 15,000 inhabitants, 
 
 if 
 
 ] ii! 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 307 
 
 its 
 
 eii- 
 
 now 
 
 eed. 
 
 iits, 
 
 is of very old Spanish origin. It is built upon almost 
 level ground, and the site of it is located on a nar'^ow 
 peninsula, extending into the bay of Panama, and on the 
 extreme eastern point of this peninsula stood the walls 
 of the old citadel, built of brick and faced with cut stone. 
 These walls were used as a promenado, being twenty- 
 five feet wide on the top. They were from thirty to 
 forty feet high and were provided with seats, and not- 
 withstanding their age, they were in good condition. 
 The view from here was very pleasing, and embraced 
 not only the vast blue expanse of the Pacific with the 
 islands in the foregound, but also the hills and forests 
 of the country. 
 
 The streets were narrow, winding and badly paved, 
 and the city altogether appeared dirty and full of disa- 
 irreeable odors. The houses had never more than three 
 stories and were provided with balconies, projecting, un- 
 til they almost touched one another. The atmosphere 
 was damp, hot and generally disagreable, and, apart from 
 the historical interest. I could find nothinof attractive 
 about the little city. Tiie old fort and the Cathedral 
 are the only buildings of any interest, and as an 
 architectural curiosity, it may be mentioned that the 
 cupolas of the two towers of the Cathedral have an 
 edging of oyster shells by way of ornament. French 
 and English Were spoken in most places, and the 
 restaurants were frequently conducted by either Ameri- 
 cans or Frenchmen. From Panama we went to Chittrae, 
 and here we rested, while a man was sent ahead to La 
 Mesa for horses, to take us up into the mountains for a 
 distance of about 120 miles, and as soon as the animals 
 arrived, we started out. 
 
 The horses were small, altlioutjh sturdv, but the road 
 was like the rocky road to Dublin — hard to travel. ' The 
 
 ' \ 
 
 
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 ii. ri- 
 
 ll f I 
 
 
 V 
 
 ii ! 
 
 V 
 
 308 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 nature in these regions is certainly uni(|ue, and it ini- 
 pressed us, as strani^ors, with its wonderful variety ot 
 scenery, fauna and Mora. I believe the vegetation em- 
 bodies everything', from tropical to Alpine, as the altitude 
 rises from the level of the Pacific and the Atlantic to 
 the summits of the Cordilleras, which rear, so to speak, 
 from a plateau formed by other mountains, palms grow 
 here in i^reat varieties. From some of them, so-called 
 palm wine is extracted, while on others cocoanut grows, 
 but many of them are very beautiful trees. While the 
 soil is said to hide, in addition to gold and silver, also 
 platinum, amathysts, emerald, copper, lead and other 
 valuable products, the forests supply cinchona and log 
 wood, while such plants as Aloe and Sarsaparilla are 
 found. 
 
 Amon<r the animals, inhabitantini.*" this nature's dru<>- 
 store, if I may use the expression, the monkeys are 
 most numerous. They are as a rule very small, but 
 there is said to be al)Out twentv varieties of them, and 
 they would sit on the branches of the trees, and th.ow 
 twigs or fruit at us as we passed by. There are various 
 kinds of animals, belonging to the feline race, also deer 
 and bears, while Alligators swarm in the rivers. In the 
 U[)[)er regions of the forests parrots and peroquets vie 
 with cockatoes in making the most noise, and over them 
 again soar the condor; cranes wade through the swamps; 
 the wild turkey hides in the undergrowth; and the beauti- 
 ful pea birds display their rich plumes. There are 
 plenty of snakes in the country, and the boa constrictor 
 makes his home ni certain places, while the Yaruma and 
 Casabal are more frequent. In the valleys are excellent 
 pastures, and nature in these regions is wonderfully 
 o'rand, while rusfged mountains of phantastic outline, 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 309 
 
 aiul rushing streams, add to tlie effect, produced by the 
 animal and vegetable hfe. 
 
 It was no easy task to travel through the forests of 
 Panama. The trail was often dangerous or hard to find, 
 and the mountain streams ran witli a velocity, which 
 rendered them difficult to ford. However, we pushed 
 on until we arrived at the place belonging to a Don 
 Juan Barrio. It did not take us lonix to discover that the 
 noble Don was a near relative of our guide, in fact the 
 home of the latter seemed to be in the bosom of Bar- 
 rio's famiiy, and it was evident that he was determined 
 to stay here for a few days before proceeding any fur- 
 ther. It v^ould not have been of much avail had we op- 
 posed his desire in this direction, for we had not been 
 long in this place, ere both Mr. Davison and myselt 
 were down with fever. For sev^eral days we were hors 
 de combat, and I felt so bad that for awhile I thought the 
 only ii'rave diiifii:in<jf I should have the i)rivileiie of beinif 
 concerned in, might be the one preceeding my own fu- 
 neral, and I wsis not at all cheered at the prospect. The 
 complaint was evidently a malarial one, and no doubt 
 had its cause in the wretched drinkinof water we were 
 treated to in this locality. Meanwhile our host was 
 very kind to us, and in a little while we found our- 
 selves recoveiing, and as soon as we were able, we set 
 out ao-ain on our weird mission. It was more stru^- 
 gling with the wilds of nature, more pelting by the im- 
 pudent monkeys, and a continuous anxiety for fear our 
 small horses would not be able to carry us and the pack 
 through, but I nmst give them credit for their wonder- 
 ful powers of endurance, which I learned in time to ap- 
 preciate. 
 
 One animal, which we here encountered in large num- 
 bers, I nearly forgot to mention, although indeed it 
 
 
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 1 <?i 
 
 v:% 
 

 310 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 played quite a part in our adventures — it was the wild 
 hog, the peecarico, as the natives call it. It is only a 
 small animal, but very ferocious, and especially, when it 
 appears in hordes, quite unpleasant to meet. It will at- 
 tack a man with its sharp teeth, and should one chance 
 to be unarmed, Mr. Hog can make things quite lively 
 for a time. In such cases the general thing is to climb 
 a tree and allow the enemv to a-et tired of waiting for 
 one's descension. I sat in a tree the greater part of one 
 day, looking down upon my pursuer, who evidently had 
 more patience than I. He stayed below, resting on his 
 haunches with his head turned skyward, one eye appa- 
 rently asleep and the other every now and again blink- 
 ing up at me, to see how I was getting on. At last 
 a native came to my relief and speared the peecarico, 
 which settled the contest in favor of me. I was begin- 
 ning to get pretty tired of being a tree dweller, and 
 made haste to get down. The natives are very skillful 
 at spearing these animals, but I never could understand 
 why they disrobe themselves of their nether garment 
 when they go in pursuit of them, except it be that they 
 Avould rather keep their trowsers than their legs intact. 
 As to myself, I felt as if I would prefer wearing six 
 pairs of pants, rather than none, when waging war upon 
 the wild hoo- of Panama. 
 
 At last we arrived at a place where our guide in- 
 troduced us to an Indian graveyard. We were told that 
 a few months previous somebody had dug out forty- 
 p.even pounds of gold in this neighborhood, and sold it 
 in Panama for fourteen dollars a pound, and we felt 
 sure that there must be many graves left from wliich 
 other treasures might be unearthed. I admit that it 
 was with a singular sense of anticipation that I invaded 
 this ghastly gold field. I recalled to my mind a dozen 
 
 i rm iiii iKfirTii i n i 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 311 
 
 different instance.^, from former years, when I had ap- 
 proaclied a place where gold ^vas supposed to be. We 
 had judged then by the surrounding nature; the geolog- 
 ical condition had in most cases fiven us some kind of 
 assurance; but here was absolutely nothing to go by, 
 save a little mound, and in some cases not even that, 
 but rather a slight hollow in the sfround. Nevertheless 
 it was not material where we duiX- In the y-raves of 
 the rich we might expect to find what we were looking 
 for, in those of the poor we had no chance. But there 
 was nothing to indicate the one from the other, for 
 these dusky heathens, in going to their forefathers, had 
 not provided for forty thousand dollars' worth of carved 
 st(Mie piles, so as to denote their rank and keep their 
 bodies safe below the soil at the same time. 
 
 Consequently we had to "go it blind," and we set to 
 work. We soon came to the conclusion, that our de- 
 [)arted friend had taken some of his household articles 
 with him, for we dug up a quantity of curious looking 
 pottery. I had not gone to Panama for the purpose of 
 collecting old crockery, or set up a curiosity shop on my 
 return home, and I was therefore not wholly satii^ficd 
 with my find. At the same time it interested me to 
 some extent, and I went on dii^fiijing, but to mv disii^ust 
 our success was limited to the unearthing of pottery, 
 until it appeared to me that all the old earthenware 
 vessels of ancient Panama must have been dumped in 
 this cemetery. We heaped the articles up at one place, 
 and ^Tadually we had accumulated enough to start an 
 ordinary museum. Grave after grave was broken into, 
 and amidst bones and skulls, that seemed to grin at us 
 from their eyeless .ockets, we drew vessel after vessel, 
 swelling our supply of ancient ware. 
 
 Suddenly we came to a grave in which the pottery 
 
 I 
 
,T 
 
 
 ii.!! 
 
 
 
 : 
 
 RELIC FROM AN INCA GRAVE. 
 
 If 
 
 iH"; 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 313 
 
 seemed to be of more delicate texture, and we concluded 
 that jsome chief had found his last restin<j: place anioiiix 
 these pieces, and so dug on with renewed hope, expecting 
 certainly to strike some of his silver or gold })late. But 
 no ! It was crockery, and remained crockery, l^ut 
 among it we found one curiosity, the like of which I had 
 never seen, neither before nor after. It was a whistle, 
 made to represent a puma, or leopard. The tail was cut 
 off stumpy, and arranged for the mouth-piece, and on 
 each side were three holes. The instrument was a very 
 curious contrivance, and so inojeniouslv arrantjed as to 
 render it possible to play sundry different tunes upon it. 
 After several days, spent in digging up pottery and 
 finding nothing else, we determined to try other regions. 
 Meanwhile, I had collected the best samples of what 
 we had found, and packed them in a basket, intend- 
 ing to bring it back to California with me. But my 
 intentions were thwarted in a singular manner. In a 
 moment of misplaced generosity I had given the native, 
 who found the curious whistle, a dime, and as soon as he 
 had an opportunity, he spent the money on grog. 
 Whether he added to his purchase of the fiery fiuid by 
 expending his own money, or whether he could really 
 get drunk for such a small amount (he afterwards in- 
 sisted that he did) I cannot tell, but he came back to 
 camp in a state of intoxication, which prevented him 
 from distinguishing the objects around him, and he laid 
 down to sleep on the basket, containing my precious 
 pottery. The result was fatal to the curios. The 
 native came out intact, but not one piece of the disinterred 
 property of deceased Indians was saved from a devasta- 
 tion, which rendered them entirely unfit even for a dime 
 museum, and I left these parts heartily sick of my first 
 experience in digging for gold in the graves of the Incas. 
 
 11 
 
CHAPTER 11. 
 
 ,.,11 
 
 ')< ! 
 
 The Chirique — AnoMier Clraveyard — More Pottery — David City 
 — The Sbubei Brothers — A Native Hog — Singular Tombs — 
 Above the Clouds — Abandoning Grave Digging — Looking 
 for Copper — A Perfect Hoodoo — Farewell Panama — Bric-a- 
 brac, 
 
 Altliough it is true that we felt greatly disappointed 
 at the poor results so far attained, we did not lose cour- 
 age, and with the tenacity and perseverence, which I 
 think is characteristic of the pioneer miners of Califor- 
 nia, we determined to give other localities a trial before 
 giving up the venture, and so pushed eastward, towards 
 Costa Ivica, in hopes of meeting with better success. 
 On the 5th of April 1875 we arrived at the Chirique 
 , and prepared to cross it. The waters came down with 
 much force, for we were experiencing a rainy seaso % 
 and had endured a good deal of hardship on our journey, 
 in this way; moreover, the river was very deep in some 
 places, and when we attempted to cross it, reached to 
 our shoulders. We all linked hands, and in this man- 
 ner, succeeded in crossing without any accident. It is 
 strange that directly on the opposite side of this river, 
 the territory is called Costa Rica, although the bound- 
 arv of the State of Panama does not occur till further 
 east 
 
 Our journey, so far, had been impeded by numerous 
 difficulties, more especially afforded by the thick under- 
 brush, through which we had often been compelled to 
 cut our way; but we now expected to get along much 
 more easily. We soon came upon a camp which had 
 
 314 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 315 
 
 been built by cattlemen. It was of singular construoticMi 
 and covered with palm leaves, servin^r well enouL,di as a 
 shelter against the sun, but forming a poor protection in 
 the rainy weather. As there was a plantation patch 
 near by, we concluded to camp here and rest, and we 
 made a good fire and placed one of the natives on guard 
 to keep the peccaricos away. These little animals were 
 very daring here, and hung round the camp like a pack 
 of wolves. Our friends, the monkeys, were also very 
 numerous in this locality, and every now and again one 
 of us would be hit by something, thrown at us by these 
 mischievous brutes, whom Darwin flattered by calling 
 them the progenitors of the human race. I have seen 
 the human race in many varieties, and all through my 
 stay in Panama 1 lived in daily exchange of missiles 
 with monkeys, and I consider it a consolation that in 
 Mr. Darwin's theorv there is a missing link, which can- 
 not be found. 
 
 The trees around our camp were covered with moss 
 to a remarkable degree. It enveloped them like a thick 
 mantle, from the tc^p down to the very roots, and 
 the effect was exceedingly striking. Here, also, we saw 
 a great many wild turkeys, the so-called ''Royal Tur- 
 key." It is a very pretty bird, and affords an excellent 
 meal, but the natives will not kill it on account of some 
 superstition. 
 
 I tried to prospect several creeks in this neighborhood, 
 but with no success. The appearance indicated gold, 
 but my experience would not bear it out, and I began 
 to wonder whether all the mineral wealth attributed to 
 this country, is confined to the graves, in which so far, 
 I had not found it. Shortly after leaving this camp 
 we came upon large droves of cattle, which were being 
 driven towards the coast to be sold in the market. The 
 
 : I 
 
316 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ir: 
 
 I 
 
 drovers, or cow-boys, looked very picturesque, wearininr 
 large sombreros and mounted, Spanish fashion, with all 
 tlie display characteristic of their race. 
 
 At last we came upon another graveyard, and with 
 renewed hopes we entered upon an examination of the 
 burial place. Again pottery and nothing but pottery. 
 It seemed to me as if all the pots, vases, vessels and 
 everything else, made out of clay, had been heaped to- 
 gether here, and as if the deceased chiefs Imd measured 
 their wealth by the earthenware in their possession. 
 There was, however, one curious feature about these 
 graves, which rendered them more interesting than 
 any we had hitherto seen. They had been constructed 
 on the principle of tombs, and were enclosed With thin 
 slabs of whitish spar, from two and one-half to three 
 inches thick. I examined this material, and came to 
 the conclusion that it would do first rate for building 
 purposes. I found it very remarkable that in all this 
 neighborhood there was not a (juarry to be seen, and it 
 made me think that the stone, used in these tombs, had 
 been brought from a considerable distance; but these 
 graves contained neither silver nor gold, and it began to 
 dawn upon nie that our trip to Panama was as much of 
 a wild-goose chase, as, in days gone by, the search for 
 the Gold Lake had been. 
 
 We traveled by way of David City and here rested 
 for a few days, putting up at the house of Mr. and Mrs. 
 Agnew. Mr. John Shuber, a prominent Panama cat- 
 tle dealer, was staying here, and he aiid his brother 
 Henry, owning certain claims on the Atlantic Slope, 
 where there was supposed to be copper, I entered into 
 an arrangement with them to prospect the locality, and 
 of this undertaking I will speak later on. We enjoyed 
 the utmost hospitality during our stay here. The city 
 
 I. ! 
 
HUNTING FOR COLD 
 
 317 
 
 of David is located on a plaiti ahcmt thirty-fivo miles 
 wcist of the volcano, known as Mt. Chn'i<|Uo. and its in- 
 liahitants are niostlv enLjaiifd in stock-niisinijf and coHee 
 culture. 
 
 Not tar from this citv we visited one of the o'reatest 
 natural wonders I have ever seen. It was a hui^e cave 
 situated in a limestone formation. We entered it with 
 biazinir torches to liixht our wav, and the effect was 
 truly mut^ic. The stalactites and stalagmites pointed 
 their long thin fingers at one another from above and 
 below; the walls glistened with spar, and the bats flew 
 like phantom birds into the farthest darkness, as the 
 glare from the torches partly lighted up the uncanny 
 scene, leavino- dense tjloom like a circle bevond the 
 periphery of their reach. The cave was probably sixty 
 feet high at its lowest point, increasing toward the back. 
 The air within was oppressive, and the whole situation 
 affected our senses in a disagreeable manner, althouijh it 
 roused our wonder, and I felt relieved upon once more 
 breathinsj: the fresh air and having: the sunliixht fall uiion 
 me again. One thing, less pleasant to contemplate when 
 we issued from the wonderful cave, was the appearance 
 of fresh tiger-tracks, but we never, saw the animal, 
 which had left, and continued our way without any 
 further adventure. 
 
 Again we camped on the banks of the Chirique. 
 While here I saw a native woman carrvino; a wild ho*'- 
 on her back. She had evidently speared the aninial, for 
 she held the weapon in her hand. The flesh of this 
 animal is very savory, not unlike our tame pig but has 
 an additional flavor, which is particularly pleasant. I 
 was amazed to see this woman thus burdened, for al- 
 though the peccary is not so large as the one that goes 
 in as pig at one end of Armour's establishment, and 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 V-yvA 
 
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 HIM 
 
 iii" 
 
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 eonies out as pork at thi^ other end, still it is u heavy 
 weiL^ht to carry. I eii^aufed in conversation with this 
 woman. She told me, amoriLj other thinL^s, that she 
 had been eiujfaijfed in dii^ijjint; ydd out of Indian «;rave8, 
 and exhihited a small piece which I bought of her for 
 six soft dollars, meaning dollars worth eighty cents 
 apiece. All along here the natives told the most har- 
 rowing tales of Spanish cruelty, as practiced in the early 
 daysuj)on the aborigines. I listened to accounts of whole 
 families who chose self-destruction rather than falling 
 into the hands of the invaders, and if the tales related 
 to me were only half true, the revolting treatment to 
 which the early settlers subjected the native sons of the 
 soil, is almost unparalleled in the history of the world, 
 and on a par with any torture practiced upon early 
 Christian martyrs. 
 
 Once more we t/ied gold-hunting in graveyards, but 
 with the same result as previously. Pottery, again; 
 pottery forever; nothing but pottery, until we became 
 so disgusted that I believe if a stranger had come up 
 and said "Indian graves" to us, we would have laid him 
 alongside some of the ancient pottery, considering our- 
 selves justified in so doing, on the ground of gross pi'ov- 
 ocation. 
 
 Before disposing of the subject of Indian graves, how- 
 ever, let me say that in many parts of South America, 
 very valuable ornaments have been found in Itica grave- 
 yards. Probably one of the most interesting of these 
 finds is at present in the possession of a Mr. Thorndike, 
 of Lima, and consists of a pure, solid silver bust of a 
 male beinsr eioht inches in higrht, and weighing about 
 eleven pounds. Mr. Frank A'incent, the well-known 
 traveler, says of this wonderful relic: "The head is de- 
 cidedly Homeric in aspect, but wears a sort of Persian 
 
HUNTING FOR (iOLU 
 
 810 
 
 
 cap, .surrouiulcd hy a larj^^o, ratliatiii"^ sun. The niouUl- 
 iiij^ and carvin<jf of the .sun in sueli a position, would ap- 
 pear to indicate a Persian origin, and tlius, again sup- 
 port tlie theory of trans-PaeiHe migration." I think 
 tiiese remarks are very suggestive and full of interest. 
 There can be no doubt that many valuable anti((uities, 
 outside of pottery, have been buried in these tombs, and 
 may, in due course of time, in the hands of ingenious in- 
 terpreters, serve as an explanation of some of the mys- 
 teries that at present meet our retrospective glance, as 
 we try to penetrate the past. 1 am informed that at 
 Molendo, a limited liability company has of late years 
 been organized, with a capital of $50,000. It bears tlie 
 singular name of the "Anonymous Company for Explo- 
 ration of the Inca Sepulchres," and has for its object the 
 search for antiquities and valuables, in the old burial 
 grounds in the district of Cuzco, the government having 
 granted a concession to the company for this })Urpose. 
 To all those who may have any intention of taking 
 stock in this somewhat remarkable company, I give here 
 my own personal experience in digging for gold in In- 
 dian graves, that they may consider well, ere they em- 
 bark in an undertaking which has, on the other hand, 
 been crowned with such success as that attained by Mr. 
 Thorndike. 
 
 I was now thoroughly disgusted with my efTorts to 
 find gold in Panama, and determined to give it up, and 
 at once attended to Mr. Shubert's business. The mines 
 he wanted me to prospect, were situated on the other 
 side of the range, and we therefore made for the sum- 
 mit, so as to reach the Atlantic slope. Our j.ourney was 
 a very difficult one. The rain was coming down in tor- 
 rents, and not till we arrived above the cloud-belt did we 
 experience any sunny weather. There, on the tops of 
 
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 320 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 the Cordilleras, pretending to put one leg on the Atlan- 
 tic, and the other on the Pacific side of the mountain 
 ridge, I made a speech to my conn)anions for the pur- 
 pose of enlivening the somewhat dreary situation. I re- 
 minded my audience of the Spanish heroes, whose per- 
 severence in days of old, had first guided them to these 
 mountain tops, and then pointed out how Anglo-Saxon 
 energy was in no way behind that of the Spaniards, and 
 how, through Americans, it had led us on to unqualified 
 success throughout the known world, excepting, of 
 course, when it came to extractinij lifold from Indian 
 graves. Then I gave three cheers for California, after 
 all, the only genuine El Dorado, and we started away 
 from the cheering; surroundinacs of sun-lit mountain 
 scenes into the clammv reoion of mist and rain, towards 
 the borders of the Atlantic. 
 
 The trail was bad and dangerous, and we sufiered con- 
 siderably on our journey, but we pushed on with una- 
 bated vigor, hoping that we njight achieve in copper, 
 the success we had failed to find in gold. All alono' I 
 examined carefully the fcmation over which we were 
 travelino-, for I had been told that we mis^lit find traces 
 of lead and copper throughout the whole distance, from 
 the Atlantic to the Pacific, but I failed entirelv to bene- 
 fit by the tips given me in this direction, and could find 
 no indication of the metal I was in search of 
 ' At Horcansists I was joined by Mr. Santiago Ho- 
 venue, whom I found a most pleasant companion. He 
 was an exceedingly gentlemanly man, and gifted with 
 rare conversational powers and general knowledge, which 
 rendered him very interesting, and his presence did 
 much towards alleviating the hardships of the trip. The 
 location which we had to examine, is situated about 
 sixty miles from Horcansists. We camped in the can- 
 

 
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 322 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 yon known as Aliares Reo, and paid a visit to Mr. Rills' 
 trading station, some fifteen miles further on. 
 
 Arrived at our destination, we found that a tunnel 
 had been started into the hill about fifty feet above the 
 creek that runs through these parts. This tunnel was 
 cut into the rock about twenty-five feet, and ran in upon 
 a reddish brown slate lying horizontally. Along the 
 face of the hill outside of the tunnel a slate formation 
 appeared, running at right angles with the tunnel, and 
 in this formation I found small seams of crystalized 
 (juartz. It was here that the virgin copper was found, 
 and I was told that when first discovered, the metal 
 lay in large lumps just above where the mouth of the 
 tunnel was situated. 
 
 But that was the last seen of the copper in any appre- 
 ciable quantity. I worked into the seams, but could not 
 find much of anything. They became narrower, until 
 they ran out altogether. The hill had the appearance 
 of a drive, as the rock did not lie in a regular position, 
 such as is generally the case when true leads of mineral 
 are found. I made a careful examination of the seams, 
 but could find only faint traces of the mineral, and not 
 even, a good specimen, where the copper was first dis- 
 covered. I must sav, that the more I saw of this olace, 
 the more I was at a loss to understand what the people, 
 who drove the tunnel, were thinking of when they did 
 all this work; for there was nothing whatever, that I 
 could find, to warrant the expenditure of any such engi- 
 
 neermg. 
 
 I followed the ledge up the canyon, and found slight 
 traces of copper in various places, but nothing like a 
 lode. There was no appearance of carbonate of copi)er, 
 but here and there were stains along the ledge, just 
 enough to indicate that we were in a copper country, 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 323 
 
 but not by any means enough to justify any outlay of 
 money for the purpose of speculation, and I can safely 
 say that I did not see, during my journeying up and 
 down on the Atlantic slope, one bucket-ful of copper. 
 In this same section of the country I made an examina- 
 tion of a ledge of cinnabar, which had been described to 
 me as exceedingly rich, but again I failed to find any- 
 thing" worth working*. The soil here consisted of brown- 
 ish clay with red patches, but if there really was cinna- 
 bar to be found, it was in such small quantities, that it 
 would not pay to work it. 
 
 Altogether, it would have cost considerable money to 
 undertake any mining in these parts. The places I was 
 directed to examine were only accessible over almost 
 impassable trails, and the dense undergrowth on the 
 hillsides rendered even the task of prospecting particu- 
 larly difficult. Closa Canyon was the name of the place 
 where the Shuber brothers more especially expected to 
 find successful mining, but I failed to meet with any- 
 thing' which would jjive the least encourag-ement, or war- 
 rant my writing a report advising operations for the 
 purpose of opening mines in this section. 
 
 Strange to say, while I was in these parts, a native 
 chief, by the name of Ruez, came to me and told me 
 that he would show us a place where we could take out 
 plenty of gold. By this time my reader knows me well 
 enough to know also that such a thing merely had to be 
 whispered in my ear to cause me to start in search of the 
 promised fortune. I persuaded Mr. Hovenne to come 
 with me, and accompanied by two natives, we set out on 
 a new venture. But Luck and I, did not go to Panama 
 together, and after having traveled in the rain, and 
 slept on the damp ground for several nights in wretched 
 camps, we arrived at the place pointed out to us, only 
 
 ( ■ 
 
"" 1 
 
 324 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 to find that once more we had been on a fool's errand. 
 
 I now prepared a report for the benefit of Messrs. 
 John and Henry Shuber. I much regretted tliat I 
 could not write an encouraging report, but conscience 
 prompted me to advise them to aband(Mi all idea of work- 
 ing these su})posed mines. It appeared to me that 
 there had been a hoodoo over my whole expedition to 
 Panama, and no previous experience had so disgusted 
 me as my visit to this, the mof-t famous of Columbia's 
 United States. It must not be inferred from this that 
 the metals I went in search of, do not exist on tlie 
 Isthmus. Undoubtedly they do, but somehow I did 
 not happen to come their way. Columbia, and for that 
 matter the greater part of South America, is one of the 
 favored quarters of the globe, and I have already 
 mentioned the many products, minerals and precious 
 stones which may be found there. But even up to the 
 present day the country has been, comparatively, but 
 little worked. The Spaniards are not the ones to 
 develop its natural wealth, and the North Americans, 
 or I would rather say the Anglo-Saxons, are so far 
 scarce there. Moreover the climate is not conijenial to 
 the latter; malarial complaints often break out, and now 
 and again the yellow Jack is experienced with a death 
 rate as high as 150 in 1,000. Had the Canal been 
 realized, no doubt this country would have benefited by 
 it, or rather others would have had an opportunity to 
 take advantage of its resources, but since the great dis- 
 aster which overtook that undertaking, I should say 
 that many years will elapse ere Panama will afford any 
 other interest to the rest of the world, than the line of rail 
 possesses, which carries the traveler from Aspinwall to 
 Panama. 
 
 I was favorably impressed with the Spanish element 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 3-25 
 
 of the population in this country. They were exeeed- 
 ini^ly courteous, and would go to niucli trouble to 
 accommodate a stranger. But they were great gamblers, 
 and the gambling houses in the city of Panama were 
 numerous. The favorite games were roulette, and that 
 other game of hazard, which a few years ago set the 
 tonorues of the "ossip ** a-wasfiifino: " in aristocratic En*»- 
 land. When I first saw baccarat played, there was no 
 historical interest attached to the iiame — it was as ord- 
 inary as draw-poker, or seven-up, is today, and I do not 
 believe any heavy sums were staked upon it. The 
 dancing of the Spanish Fandango afforded me much 
 amusement, as a spectator in the dance houses. The 
 attitudes assumed by the dancers, and the contortions 
 gone through by them, were very ridiculous to behold. 
 I was now glad to turn my back upon Panama, which 
 to me had been a land of continued disap})ointments. 
 I had wasted six months of time and spent at least six 
 hundeed dollars, in* a vain endeavor to find something 
 worth my time and trouble, and all I had to show for it 
 was a few pieces of pottery, which now help to make 
 up the bric-a-brac on the What-not of a friend, being 
 the only trophies, brought home by a Forty-niner, who 
 went abroad to worship at the shrine of Dame fortune. 
 
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A TRIP 
 
 TO 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
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CHAPTER I. 
 
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 Off for Alaska — Review of the History of the Country — Russian, 
 American and English Influences — The Tolstois and the 
 Asters — A "Wonderful Region — First Impression of Scenery 
 — Quoting Kate Field — Mountains and Glaciers — Lieutenant 
 Schwatska's Surveys — A Phantom City. 
 
 I went to Alaska solely for the purpose of taking 
 a cursory glance of this wonderful country. I had no 
 idea of staying there for any length of time, merely 
 desiriui; to visit some of the localities, where orold was 
 said to exist in sufficient quantity to induce men to go in 
 search of it. But, brief as my visit was to that northern 
 province, I am anxious to add a few remarks to the 
 many, which have already been published in regard to 
 one of the most interesting quarters of the globe. 
 
 It will be remembered that in May, 1867, the United 
 States paid Russia the sum of 3~, -00,000 for the 
 territory of Alaska, which in area is about one-sixth of 
 the size of the States, and probably money was never 
 better expended than on this occasion, when we secured 
 a province, abounding in natural resources A) an extra- 
 ordinary degree. The Russians were the first to recog- 
 nize the worth of Alaska. As early as 1G46 they had 
 pushed their explorations eastward in Siberia as ftir as 
 the Koly'ma River, and, eager for trade rather than for 
 discovery, they attempted the first voyage east of the 
 Koly'ma, thus finding a narrow channel between the 
 grounded ice and the shore. They landed in a small 
 bay, where they met with a number of Chirkchees, from 
 whom they obtained a quantity of walrus ivory, thus 
 
 329 
 
 4: 
 
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 380 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 i; 
 
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 Hi i 
 
 J ,r i!:.,. 
 
 establishinj^ the first trade with the natives. From that 
 day to the present the deveh)pnient of Alaska has con- 
 tinued incessantly. Discoveries of great resources fol- 
 lowed one upon the other. The merchant found an in- 
 exhaustable field for operations in various markets.' 
 When in 1741 Bering made his discoveries in the 
 northern waters, an additional impetus was given to 
 trade in those regions, and the darins: naviijator little 
 foresaw the seemingly endless troubles, which his under- 
 taking should bring about, and which are today so 
 prominently before the world. It was more particularly 
 the furs and skins that then attracted the trader, but 
 afterwards the fisheries became of world-wide importance; 
 then the presence of costly metals was discovered. In 
 addition to all this, the Alaska of today is a place, where 
 the tourist and the scientist, alike, may go into ecstacies 
 over wonderful scenery or the discovery of natural 
 phenomena, which seem to connect the remote antiquity 
 with the present day and explain some of the mysteries 
 that meet us in the consideration of our own innnediate 
 surroundings. As yet Alaska is but little explored. 
 The coast is the only part that is well known with the 
 exception of some few inland places, more especially on 
 the rivers. But there are vast territories in the interior, 
 where proljably no human foot has ever trod, and in 
 that mysterious wilderness we may still expect to meet 
 with wonders, which shall puzzle our imagination and 
 surprise our senses. It has been asserted that there the 
 giant mastodon still roams, and who knows what their 
 wondrous animals, which we have believed to be extinct, 
 may still be found, when this terra incognits shall be 
 properly traversed. 
 
 These nations used their best energies to develop 
 Alaska, although up till '67 Russia was the only one 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 331 
 
 that (lid so as a national enterprise, the others bein*; in 
 the field as private speculators. It is interesting to 
 notice, that while today Count Leo Tolstoi exercises a 
 remarkable ' iHuence in the matter of social problems, 
 one of his ancestors, Andrean Tolstoi, in 1700, fitted out 
 a vessel, called the "Andrean and Nathalen, ' which in 
 command of Maxim Lazeroff sailed from Kamschatka 
 and wintered on Bering Island. Lazeroff explored the 
 islands, which have since been called the Andrcanoffsky 
 Group, but it is to bo regretted that the cruel treatmetit, 
 to which his men subjected the natives, had much to do 
 with the revolting attrocities practiced afterwards by the 
 aborigines in retaliation of the conduct of the Europeans. 
 Twenty years before this the first student of science 
 visited these regions. It was the naturalist Louis de la 
 Croyere, who went with ChirikofT in the St. Paul at 
 the same time as Berino- and Steller in the St. Peter 
 sailed from Avatcha in search of the American coast, 
 and the man of science paid for his venture with his own 
 life. 
 
 But Tolstoi is by no means the only literary man of 
 the present day descending from one who helped to de- 
 velop Alaska. America threw her enterprise into the 
 matter, and the grandfather of the brilliant editor of the 
 Pall Mall Magazine, Mr. William Waldorf Astor, was 
 the man who first brought about a business relation be- 
 tween this country and Alaska. In 1810, the late John 
 Jacob Astor formed an association in New York under 
 the name of the Pacific Fur Company, but already the 
 previous year, he had fitted out and dispatched the ship, 
 Enterprise, which, in command of Captain Ebbets, ar- 
 rived in Sitka in July 1810. The following year Mr. 
 Astor dispatched the second detachment of traders under 
 William P. Hunt, and the trading station of Astoria 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 was establislied. The so-called Russiau-Ainorican Com- 
 pany was then pushiiio; trade in Alaska to the best of 
 their al)ility, hut the arrival of Mr. Astor's force yrawi 
 anew impetus to husiness. In October, 181 1, he made 
 an ai^reement with the Company, accordini^ to which he 
 pledjj^ed himself to furnisli provisions at fixed prices and 
 to take pay in furs from the company. They were to 
 mutually protect each other a<^ainst snuio;«rlers ond re- 
 spect each other's liuntinLi' sjfround. Astor was to take 
 the Company's furs to Canton and sell them on com- 
 mission, and both aj^reed not to sell any liquors to the 
 natives; but this arrangement was broken \ip by the 
 subsequent war between Ens^dand and the United 
 States. It is of interest to notice that the aijreement 
 was ratified and approved by the Emperor of Russia, 
 Alexander the first. 
 
 During that period also, in 1812, the first Russian 
 settlement in California was established. The idea was 
 to furnish Alaska with certain products, which could 
 not be produced there, but were easily carried along the 
 coast, and the settlement was established with the con- 
 currence of the Spanish Government, though against 
 the wishes of the Roman Catholic missionaries. On the 
 30th o^ ^Mgust Kriskoff removed this colony to a hill, 
 near Jie Russians called the Slaveanka River, now 
 
 1 a,s the Russian River, and the inhabitants were 
 
 pi., oipally devoted to agriculture and the drying of 
 meat. Wheat was also raised in large quantities and 
 sent to Sitka, but the Spaniard regarded the Russians 
 with anything but friendly feelings and did all in their 
 power to impede their operations. This will show how 
 one nation, which had a splendid chance of benefiting 
 by the opportunities aft'orded in Alaska, refused to do 
 so principally on the ground of religious differences, 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ii:\ii 
 
 owinuf to thu rivalry cxifiting between the CIreek and 
 the Koinaii Church. 
 
 In 1824 the convention between tlie United States 
 and Russia was si«rned at St, Petershurijfli. It provided 
 tliat the North Pacific sliould be open to citizens of 
 both nations for fishing, tradin*^ and navii^ation, except 
 that the trading posts of either of tlie contracting 
 parties should not be visited by subjects of the other 
 party without the consent of the officer in command. 
 The Russians were not to make any settlements south 
 of latitude fifty-six degrees forty minutes, nor could the 
 Americans form any north of that parallel, and it was 
 also provided that arms and ammunition should not be 
 sold to the natives. One clause in the convention was 
 to the effect that the liberty to navigate the Russian 
 waters, might be abrogated after ten years, and the 
 privilege was withdrawn in 1834 on the ground that 
 unscrupulous traders had carried on the sale of fire-arms 
 and spirits to the native.««. 
 
 Eniiland was the third nation to contribute, to some 
 extent, towards the further development of Alaska. The 
 Hudson Bay Company, ever on the alert to extend trade, 
 conceived the idea of establishing a fort on the Russian 
 territory, before the termination of the agreement be- 
 tween Great Britain and Russia, which had been made 
 on the same basis as the one previously referred to. So 
 they fitted out a vessel and dispatched the same to the 
 mouth of the Stikine River, but Baron Wrangel, who 
 was chief director of the colonies, learned of the project, 
 and the English were not allowed to land. Subse- 
 quently, however, the dispute was settled, and the Hud- 
 son Bay Company received a ten-years lease of a strip 
 of land, agreeing to pay an annual rental of furs, and to 
 furnish a certain amount of provisions annually, at fixed 
 

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 334 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 rates, consisting of 560,000 pounds of wheat, 19,920 
 pounds of Hour, 16.160 pounds of peas, 16,160 pounds of 
 barley, 36,880 pounds of bacon, 19,920 pounds of beef, 
 and 3,680 pounds of ham. 
 
 During the year 1848, the Russian mining engineer, 
 Doroshin, was sent by the government to examine into 
 the mineral wealth of portions of Alaska, and his report 
 shows that 'ready in the same year when gold was dis- 
 covered in California, it had become evident to the Rus- 
 sians that their province on the Pacific Coast was gold- 
 bearing. In the same year, the American ship Supe- 
 rior, under Captain Roys, passed through Bering Straits, 
 being the first whaler that undertook this enterprise, 
 thus inauiiuratino; a series of unforeseen difficulties. 
 
 There was, probably, no circumstance which more 
 contributed towards brinu-inof Alaska to the front, than 
 the disappearance of the unfortunate Franklin in the 
 Arctic regions, whither he had gone in the year 1845, 
 in search of the northwest passage. The subsequent 
 expeditions, sent out to find some trace of the Franklin 
 party, although unsuccessful in this respect, did much 
 towards adding to our general knowledge of the north- 
 ern country, and Alaska received her share of mention. 
 Yet it was not until the country became a territory of 
 the United States, that the greatest attention was at- 
 tracted to Alaska. American enterprise, in every con- 
 ceivable branch, has placed its stamp upon the newly- 
 acquired land. The wonderful canneries have been es- 
 tablished with American money. Gold, silver and cin- 
 nabar mines have been opened by American labor, and 
 worked by our ingenuity. Our whalers yearly place 
 upon the world's market thousands of gallons of oil, and 
 thousands of pounds of whalebone, while American skill 
 and business capacity has made it worth the tourist's 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 335 
 
 while to visit these distant parts, and view the wonder- 
 ful scenes presented there. For, to the man of liesure, 
 or the studednt of nature, Alaska possesses a charm 
 which is, probably, not excelled by any other country. 
 Its wild forests, towering mountains, wonderful glaciers; 
 its rugged coast, vast expanse of a sea nearly always 
 calm as its name — all these are features in the great pan- 
 orama which unfolds itself to the visitor. 
 
 A pretty picture of Alaskan scenery is presented 
 in the following lines by Kate Field: 
 
 "The sea is glassy, and a procession of small bergs, 
 broken away from the glacier, float silently towards the 
 South. It is nature's dead march to the sun, to melt 
 in its burning kisses, and to be transplanted into happy 
 tears. Wild ducks fly past, and from his eyrie, a bald- 
 headed eagle surveys the scene, deeply, darkly, beauti- 
 fully blue, apparently conscious that he is the symbol of 
 the Republic. There are glaciers and glaciers. In Swit- 
 zerland a glacier is a vast bed of dirty, air-holed ice that 
 has fastened itself, like a cold porous plaster, to the side 
 of an Alp. Distance alone lends enchantment to tlie 
 view. In Alaska, a glacier is a wonderful torrent that 
 seems to have been suddenly frozen when about to 
 plunge into the sea. Down and about mountains wind 
 these snow-clad serpents, extending miles inland with as 
 many arms, sometimes, as an octopus. Wonderfully 
 picturesque is the Davidson glacier, but more extended is 
 the Muir glacier, which marks the extreme northerly 
 points of pleasure travel. Imagine a glacier three miles 
 wide and three hundred feet high at its mouth. Think 
 of Niagara Falls frozen stiff; add thirty-six feet to its 
 hight, and you have a slight idea of the terminus of 
 Muir glacier, in front of which your steamer anchors; 
 picture a background of mountains fifteen thousand feet 
 
336 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 
 high, all snow-clad, and then imagine a gorgeous sun 
 lighting up the ice crystals with rainbow colorings. The 
 face of the glacier takes on the hue of aqua marine, the 
 hue of every bit of floating ice, big and little, thac sur- 
 round the steamer and make navigation serious. These 
 dazzling serpents move at the rate of sixty-four feet a 
 day. tumbling headlong into the sea, and as it falls, the 
 ear ; startled by submarine thunder, the echoes of 
 which resound far and near. Down, down, down goes 
 the berg, and woe to the boat in its way when it again 
 rises to the surface." 
 
 Such, indeed, was the impression I received on 
 visiting Alaska. But no less wonderful is the sail along 
 the coast as one passes through a perfect labyrinth of 
 islands. One's admiration is constantly challenged as 
 scene after scene unfolds itself with unexpected grandeur, 
 and the traveler fails t(. find words with which to express 
 his wonder, as he beholds the glaciers and the mount- 
 ains of perpetual snow. 
 
 Among the travelers of the present day, who have 
 added to our store of knowledge regarding this wonder- 
 ful region. Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka is one of 
 the fcremost. According to him the territory is larger 
 than all that part of the United States lying east of 
 the Mississippi river; its coast has the deepest soundings 
 in the world; its mountain peaks are the highest in the 
 whole of the American concinent; its coast line is more 
 extended than that of the United States; its farthermost 
 western- point is a greater distance west of San Francisco 
 than the State of Maine is east of the same city, and its 
 great riv^er, the Yukon, 16,000 miles long, has a mouth 
 wider than the distance from Keokuk to Davenport. 
 It is more in particular in his survey of this river that 
 Lieutenant Schwatka has become famous. Up to the 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 337 
 
 year 1880 it was but imperfectly mapped out, but he 
 penetrated to its head waters, which he found were 
 made up of about one hundred lakes. On this j(<urney 
 the party passed the ruins of the old trading station of 
 Selkirk, which was established in '53 bul afterwiird 
 abandoned. A short distance above this point the river 
 passes through the mountains into the great plains, 
 where it spreads to a width of twenty^five miles. In the 
 middle of the plains it turns directly west at a right 
 angle and cuts through the mountain range at a point, 
 where is now established the last of the trading posts. 
 
 But Lieutenant Schwatka's most interesting journey 
 was probably his second expedition, during which he 
 accomplished the ascension of Mt. St. Elias, which rises 
 to an altitude of 18,000 feet above the sea. On this 
 occasion the party encountered the greatest difficulties 
 throuijhout, and the landinsjf, which took place in Icy 
 Bay, proved a most dangerous task. Three glaciers lie 
 between the bay and the mountain, of which the first 
 covers an area of 1,000 square miles. It is 2,650 feet 
 deep and has a frontage to the sea of fifty-three miles. 
 
 The scenery here is grand beyond description and the 
 avalanches, the chasms, the ice mountains, the floating 
 bergs^— all combine to produce a scene, which is most 
 wonderful in its eflect. It fairly dazzles the onlooker, 
 and as one views the surrounding nature, he realizes 
 that in no langruaofe known to human tony^ue can words 
 be found, which will adequately express the sensation, 
 experienced in this majestic nature. 
 
 If Mount St. Elias be imposing to behold, with its 
 surrounding scenery, the Muir glacier, in Glacier Bay, 
 is not less so. So many descriptions of these wonderful 
 ice-fields have already been written, that I do not feel 
 called upon to compete with the practiced writers whose 
 
338 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 fluent descriptious of nature so ably depict the grandeur 
 and beauty as it appears. But I cannot close this chap- 
 ter without remarking upon one of the most wonderful 
 phenomena, which yearly occurs in Glacier Bay during 
 the longest days of the month of June. As the mid- 
 summer (and one may almost say the midnight) sun is 
 setting behind Mount Fairweather, there appears upon 
 the bosom of Pacific glacier, a singular sight. It is a 
 phantom city; the mirage of an ancient, and to all appear- 
 ances, oriental town. Directly in front, apparently sur- 
 rounding the city, is a high stone wall, behind which 
 are seen immense buildings looming toward the sky. 
 The architecture is quaint and seemingly eastern. The 
 building material appears to be mostly stone, the roofs 
 are flat, and smoke may be seen issuing from the 
 chimneys. The streets appear to be narrow and the 
 buildings,some of which are evidently in course of erection, 
 are closely packed and do not look as if they were 
 placed in proper blocks or arranged according to our 
 ideas of a city plan. It is apparently a very large city 
 extending back as far as the eye can reach, and tall 
 spires and cupolas intersperse the contour of the picture, 
 which is so distinct, that it has been possible to take 
 well defined photographs of it. It is a fact, that, since 
 1880, every returning year at the same period and hour 
 this remarkable phenomenon repeats itself. But where 
 the real city is situated, which is here so strangely 
 reflected, no one can tell, nor have I ever heard any 
 scientific proposition trying to solve the problem of lo- 
 cating the actual city. There, in the waning light it 
 may be seen in the far northern land, where the ice 
 king reigns all the year. There it seems to float before 
 the vision of the puzzled spectator, whose mind invol- 
 untarily grapples with the wonder and tries to locate its 
 
'ful 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 339 
 
 reality. But who dwells there, no one knows. What 
 hopes, what fears, what longings are fostered there re- 
 mains a mystery. On the barren icefield of the glacier 
 it rises nightly for a few fleeting moments like a phantom, 
 called into existence by the magic wand of a fairy — a 
 most wonderful optical deception, a freak of nature, a 
 fata morgana. 
 
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 iiilii:,. 
 
 CHAPTEU II. 
 
 Miniii<( Matters — On the Stikiue River — ■Sau Fraueisco Specu- 
 lators in the Fiekl — Lar<^e iMiuiu<»' Machinery — Fish Oil and 
 Gold Dust — The Yukon Diggings — Comparison Between I'ast 
 and Present — Interesting Indians — Artistic Carvings — Inno- 
 centius Veuiaminoff — The End. 
 
 As a matter of course I paid particular attention to 
 the uiinino- districts of Alaska, duriuo; uiv l)rief sojourn 
 there, and did not forget to visit the Stikine liiver 
 where the first niiniuij;- camp of any account, was located 
 in 1876. At the mouth of the Stikine is Fort Wrangle, 
 called after one of the Russian Governors who, durinof 
 histermof office, did much for the benefit of the territov. 
 That Alaska is a rich gold-bearing country, there can be no 
 doubt, and at the time of writing this, reports are fre- 
 quently heard as to new mines opened up there; but I 
 do not think it will ever compare with the first find on 
 the California gold-fields, nor, indeed, with the present 
 sup])ly, reserved for the capitalist to reveal by 
 means of modern machinery. The coast of Alaska, like 
 the coast of British Columbia, indicates immense ofcoloo- 
 ical revolutions, and in my opinion, it is during such a 
 period that the gold, which would otherwise have been 
 easily accessible, has been forced downward to a lower 
 stratum, whence only large capital can bring it to light, 
 if accessible at all. 
 
 Comparatively speaking, our knowledge of the geolog- 
 ical conditions of Alaska, is somewhat limited, for obvi- 
 
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 342 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ous reasons. On the Stikine River, the gold deposits, 
 which are now nearly exhausted, were only worked on 
 the placers; but there are, no doubt, quartz veins in the 
 nei<>chborhood, and the miners who had the courage to 
 penetrate to the headwaters of the Tahco River, were 
 rewarded by finding coarse gold. Gold has also been 
 found in the sands of the Yukon, near Fort Yukon; it 
 exists on the Kaknu River and around the Taku vil- 
 lages. Of late, however, a number of enterprises have 
 been started in Alaska, on a large scale, for the purpose 
 of extracting whatever wealth the soil may hold in gold 
 or other precious metals. On Douglas Island the lairg- 
 est quartz mill in the world has been lately put up. 
 Two hundred and forty stamps are in operation, and the 
 machinery is conceded to be not only the largest, but 
 the most complete of its kind in existence, its monthly 
 output of gold bullion being roughly estimated at about 
 $150,000. 
 
 Douglas Island, I should say, is at present that part 
 of Alaska, where the richest deposits of Gold are to be 
 found. Here is located the celebrated Paris Mine and 
 Eastern and European speculators have lately bought 
 claims in this locality, sinking as much as $1,500,00 in 
 mines which will now be worked by improved machinery. 
 It is supposed that the country holds several gold-bear- 
 ino- leds^es of ijjreat size and value, and tunnels are beinsr 
 driven into the mountain sides with a view to opening 
 them. On the mainland, also, rich lodes are claimed 
 to exist in the so-called Silver Bow Basin, near Juneau, 
 and this locality is regarded with a good deal of antici- 
 pation. It is expected that some rich revelations will 
 take place here in a near future, and the sanguine ones 
 contend that one of the most orolific gold-fields in the 
 world will be found in this locality. An extension of 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 343 
 
 the Silver Bow Basin is supposed to crop up at one of 
 the forks of Sheep Creek. Here, at all events, recent 
 discoveries have revealed ore that carries galena, zinc 
 blende, and copper pyrites, while the assays show plenty 
 of gold and a small percentage of silver. As a matter 
 of course this ore has to be treated in a smelting furnace, 
 but I understand that there are other lodes in the same 
 belt, which bear rich ore as a free milling quartz, wherein 
 the gold can be readily detected with the naked eye. 
 
 A Wisconsin company has lately put a small mill into 
 operation in the Sitka district. It is asserted that this 
 locality is rich in different lodes, and that gold is found 
 in payable quantities; but I am not aware that the Wis- 
 consin people have so far done any great strokes in their 
 venture. 
 
 On Unga Island several San Francisco companies have 
 engaged in developing a dozen or more claims, and I be- 
 lieve that with comparatively little outlay some good 
 results may be expected by* the way of rich returns. 
 The ore carries about equal parts of gold and silver and 
 from thirty to seventy per cent, of lead, and it is taken to 
 San Francisco to go throuijh the smeltini^ furnace there. 
 
 On Onolaska Island gold and silver ledcjes have been 
 disclosed, and it is expected that they can be worked to 
 advantage. Some years ago prospectors thought that 
 they had found gold in paying quantities in the so-called 
 black sands of the shores of Yakutat Bay and of the 
 ocean in that vicinity, and large quantities of the sand 
 were assayed in Sitka, showing forty dollars to the ton. 
 There was a rush at once, but most of the miners soon 
 returned disappointed. A few, who remained and had 
 brought with them proper appliances for the extraction 
 of the precious metal, were more fortunate and succeeded 
 in making fairly good wages, when all of a sudden they 
 
1 
 
 344 
 
 HUNTIN(i FOK (VO-LD 
 
 » !1 
 
 Pnn! 
 
 discovered that the gold had totally disappeared. A 
 singular explanation was given of this tact, which I re- 
 peat here tor the benetit of miners i)laced under similar cir- 
 cumstances. A large (|uantity of dog-tish had been left 
 to die upon the shore by the receding tide, and the oil 
 from these tish was drawn out by the heat of the sun's 
 rays. The oil permeated the sand and operated in such 
 a manner as to prevent the quicksilver on the plates 
 from picking up the gold, which was therefore carried 
 away in the tailings and lost. 
 
 The miners haviny: discovered the reason for their 
 loss, selected sand which had not been permeated with 
 tish oil, and were once more making their labor pay, 
 when a tidal wave swept into the bay and washed away 
 all the sand within reach containing gold. But the inci- 
 dent would tend to prove that it is possible to extract 
 gold from the sand all along the coast of these parts, 
 with })roper appliances and care. 
 
 In Golovin Bay a San Francisco company has opened 
 a silver mine, with gOv)d results. It is located in the 
 mountains running through the peninsula between Ber- 
 inij Sea and the Arctic Ocean, in latitude 65 dejrrees. 
 The ore here is rich, carrying all the way from seventy 
 to eighty-tive per cent of i)ure lead, and from one hun- 
 dred to two liundred and tifty dollars of silver to the ton 
 
 During my stay in Alaska, I was unable to learn 
 much of the diggings on the Yukon and its tributaries. 
 In conversation with men who had been there, or who 
 knew about the locality, I ascertained, however, that no 
 great operations had been carried on, although a good 
 many daring prospectors had ventured far into the inte- 
 rior, fighting the natives and the elements with equal 
 valor and tenacity. Here, to my mind, was carried on 
 the kind of mining mostly resembling what I had known 
 
HUNTIN(i FOR GOLD 
 
 :U5 
 
 in till) early days <»f Ciilit'oniiu's <((>ld history. Men 
 would go up there in partii's and work the placers, the 
 same as we had done. Some of them ptMitratcd as far 
 as thfe Shetando, and the pan or the rocker was their 
 main-stay as they drew from the gravel the goldiMi 
 specks. 1 learned many things about these diggings 
 that interested me and recalled to my mind incidents of 
 my own life on the Yuba. The fortune-seekers on the 
 mining fields of to-day, seem to have much in common 
 with their predecessors of the long ago. They are just 
 as restless and just as credulous. I listened with a smile 
 on my lips, when they told me the wonderful stories 
 that would come into camp, of rich discoveries of untold 
 wealth. The wild i'oose chase for (jrold Lake or Lone 
 Tree, returned to my memory o!i such occasions. Then 
 again they would describe to me how they might have 
 become rich had they not left g(jod-paying claims to 
 go in search of others which were either phantoms, or 
 did not pan out. Alas! How often had I done the 
 same. And how many are there among the early pio- 
 neers who might now have spent the evening of their 
 life in comfort and ease, had they been content with the 
 claims that afforded them a rich yield, instead of leaving 
 them to ofo in search of still more majjjniticent fortunes 
 whicl. did not materialize. In other respects I recog- 
 nized features similar to those predominant on the Yuba. 
 It appears that the route into the upi)er Yukon country 
 was through the Dyah Pass. But this trail is difficult 
 and dangerous to travel, and the miner is not in a posi- 
 tion to take with him any great amount of supplies, and 
 therefore, when he gets to the diggings, is entirely at 
 the mercy of the traders, who take the same advantage 
 of him, that they did of us in the early days. When I 
 visited Alaska, I was given to understand that on this 
 
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 340 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOIJ) 
 
 I 
 
 'IS 
 
 !(:'• 
 
 j^old-field flour was sold at thirty-five dollars a barrel; 
 bacon forty coats per j)ouiid; sugar thirty cents, heans 
 twenty cents, rice twenty-five cents, lard thirty-five 
 cents, and everythiiij^ else in proportion. 
 
 I was, naturally, more interested in the ^^old niining- 
 of Alaska than in anythini^ else appertaining^ to the pro- 
 ducts of the country; but I must admit that I was some- 
 what impressed by the grand possibilities of this terri- 
 tory, in other directions. I have already mentioned the 
 silver mines, but in addition to these are, as a matter of 
 course, large deposits of lead; and copper, iron and (quick- 
 silver are also found. The fisheries and canneries can- 
 not but attract the attention of the observing traveler, 
 and the wonderful variety of furs is not less interesting. 
 
 I would not close my brief outline of this wonderful 
 country without mentioning the natives, who dwell 
 therein. The aboriijincs are divided into a number of 
 tribes but Mr. William H. Dall contends that they con- 
 sist of two principal races,of which he calls one the Indians 
 and the other the Orarians, the latter name being" de- 
 rived from the Latin, meaning: appertaining to the 
 coast. He claims, and it. would seem with much justifi- 
 cation, that the inlahd natives and those who inhabit 
 the coast, are two entirely different races, and probably 
 no Caucasian has ever more dilligently examined into 
 the afiairs of the native Alaskans, than has Mr. Dall, 
 who, as director of the scientific corps of the Western 
 Union Telegraph expedition, traveled over these northern 
 reofions and made scientific researches of all the conditions 
 of the natives. To the Orarian group is counted the 
 inhabitants of the northern and western shores of 
 America, the islands of the vicinity and that part of 
 eastern Siberia, which is known as the Chukchee penin- 
 sula,and Mr. Dall divides them into three branches — the 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 347 
 
 Iiniuit, tlio Aleutians and the Tuski. The Indian group 
 Mr. Dall divides into two branches, calling them the 
 Thlinkets and the Tinnels, but each of these again is 
 divided into a number of «ther branches or tribes. 
 
 All these diti'ere^t divisions of mankind vary in lan- 
 guage, in custom, in appearance from the Eskimo to 
 the Kygani, in whom I soon recognized my Indian 
 friend from the Queen Charlotte Archipelago. In fact 
 the Kygani and the Hydah Indians both belong to the 
 Thlinket group. They were the ones with whom I 
 came mostly in contact, and whom I therefore had the 
 greatest opportunity of observing, and I was nmch im- 
 pressed with all that I learned concerning their habits, 
 customs, beliefs and traditions. Singularly enough, al- 
 though these people live so close to the Queen Char- 
 lotte Indians and are, as already stated, somewhat re- 
 lated to them, they have traditions, in which notwith- 
 standing the subject matter is common, the expression 
 is entirely different. One of these relates to the origin 
 of the' heavenly bodies, and I refer my reader to the 
 myth, as told in the chapter of the Hydah Indians, 
 wliile I here produce the version, given by the Thlinkets. 
 
 Yehl or Yahl is described as the maker of woods and 
 waters. As he grew up he had many adventures, but 
 the most interesting one was experienced, when he put 
 the sun and moon and stars in their places, and this is 
 the way in which it was done. There was a rich chief 
 in those days, who kept the sun and moon and stars in 
 different boxes, which no one was allowed to touch 
 Yehl knew that only a grandchild of the old chief would 
 be permitted to handle the brilliant lights, and he deter- 
 mined to take upon himself this part. To this end he 
 transformed himself into a blade of grass and was swal- 
 lowed by the chief's beautiful daughter, who in due time 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ■>i ' 
 
 ?. 
 
 
 IH'ave birth to ca child, in whom Yehl was embodied. 
 T]ie iifraiKlfather «oon took sucli a hkiiio" to the youiiijf 
 child, that he could not refuse him anything. One day 
 lie asked to be allowed to play with the box, containing 
 the stars, and, having obtained permission, he removed 
 the lid, when, behold, the heavens suddenly became 
 starlit. He received a severe scoldino", but still his 
 giandfather could not refuse him, when he asked per- 
 mission to play with the other box, containing the moon. 
 Again the same thing happened and the old chief swore 
 that he would never consent to let him have the third 
 box, containing the sun. But Yehl kept fasting, until he 
 made himself sick, and then the grandfather gave in, 
 Yehl having solemnly promised not to open the box. 
 No sooner had the mischievous grandchild obtained the 
 box, tlian he ti'ansformed himself into a raven and flew 
 away. He thou removed the lid from the box, and the 
 sun shone over the earth, but tlie dwellers thereon, 
 dazzled with the unusual lio'ht, ran into the woods and 
 mountains, some of them diving even into the wtiters, 
 and many of them were transformed into animals and 
 fish. 
 
 These Indians do not seem to have any definite idea of 
 a Supreme being, and w4th them Yehl seems to be the 
 only recognized deity, if deity he can be called. He ar- 
 ranges everything for the comfort of the Thlinkets, and 
 then retires to his abode, where neither men nor spirits 
 can penetrate. Among their traditiotis there is one 
 which bears upon the theory of a general deluge, thus 
 accountinac for the diflerence of lan2fua<i:es. A few hu- 
 man beings were saved on a raft, but this broke in 
 twain. On one part of it were the ancestors of the 
 Thlinkets, and on the other the rest of the nations of 
 the world; and hence, to this day, the Thlinkets do 
 
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 350 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 not speak the same language as do the rest of men. 
 
 Baron Wrangel, of whom mention has been made 
 several times, has collected many of the legends of these 
 people, as has also Mr. Dall. But in the opinion of the 
 latter, the Baron's accounts have been considerably 
 mixed with the superstitions of the Greco-Russian 
 Church, and is not to be relied upon in every respect. 
 
 The most remarkable feature about the Alaska na- 
 tive, is his wonderful idea of carving. In this regard 
 his skill is absolutely singular, and his imitative powers 
 often very remarkable. Among these people we find 
 the totem-pole artistically decorated, the same as I have 
 described in speaking of the Hydah Indians, the gro- 
 tesque masks and the curious carvings on all the imple- 
 ments and domestic utensils. But it appears to me that 
 in Alaska the art is carried to a still higher degree, and 
 the many visiting tourists which now-a-days travel over 
 the territory, have no doubt done much to develop the 
 practice by ordering things carved #which were never 
 thought of before, such as paper-knives, salad-forks, salt- 
 spoons, etc. They also understand the art of carving 
 one thing within another, such as several balls within 
 balls, and so on, and I have seen a watch-chain with 
 proper links, most skilfully carved from one piece of a 
 a walrus tusk. Neither do these people confine them- 
 selves to any particular material, but will apply walrus 
 tusk, wood, silver, gold or anything that their primitive 
 tools can form into articles for use, ornament or curiosity. 
 
 This talent they seem to have in common with the 
 Chinese, and, indeed, the native people of that northern 
 province, strange as it may appear, belong more to the 
 Mongolian type than to any other I can think of, and 
 is certainly not at all like the North American Indian 
 in appearance or habits. 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 351 
 
 It is roughly estimated that there still remains about 
 35,000 natives who are entirely outside the boundaries 
 of civilization. There are about 3500 partly civilized 
 natives, while the Aleuts number 3,000. These latter 
 people are highly interesting and inhabit the Aleutian 
 archipelago. They nearly all speak Russian and profess 
 the Greco-Russian faith. They owe their present de- 
 gree of civilization almost entirely to the undying efforts 
 in the cause of humanity of the late Rev. Innocentius 
 Veniaminoflf of the Irkutsk Seminary, who labored 
 among them with a devotion and lielf-sacrifice, that have 
 born everlasting fruit. It is said of these people that 
 they are most excellent chess players. They are very 
 singular in their habits and ideas, and they certainly 
 afford interesting subjects for the student of mankind in 
 its various manifestations. 
 
 I have submitted these few remarks about Alaska in 
 hopes that they may be of some interest to the reader. 
 I paid but a brief visit to that wonderful land with no 
 other intent than to see it and ascertain a few facts 
 about its mining prospects, some of which I have re- 
 lated above. But my journey thither comprised part of 
 the experiences of my life, which by this time has been 
 a long and varied one, and for that reason I have pre- 
 sented in these chapters, w^iat I thought would be a 
 fitting termination to an account of a gold hunters 
 travels on the Pacific coast. 
 
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CHIPS OF THE OLD BLOCK. 
 
 A CHAPTER DEDICATED TO THE NATIVE SONS. 
 
 The Author's Address — Pioneers and Native Hous — Two National 
 Days — An Organization Established — A Moth-eaten Boar 
 — General Winn's Efforts — A Young President — Telling 
 Speeches — A Birthday Party — Grand Secretary and Free- 
 Mason — A Kelic Saved — Men of Action. 
 
 I am approaching the close of this vohime and have 
 soon to fall back upon the kind indulgence of my readers, 
 who shall decide whether it has imparted to them any 
 additional knowledije or a^orded amusement I have 
 devoted a few of the closing pages to the memory of 
 scaie of my pioneer friends, wdioni I have known in Cal- 
 ifornia and British Columbia. Some of them still walk 
 in the path of life, enjoying the pleasing results of suc- 
 cessful labors, whilst others have crossed the bourne, 
 from which there is no return. 
 
 It is safe to say that these men have been among the 
 builders of the respective countries which they represent. 
 My readers will have seen what tremendous progress 
 has been made on the Pacific Slope within the [)ast 
 forty-five years, Alaska has been made accessible and 
 promises to become one of the world's most interest- 
 ing parts. British Columbia is daily being opened up 
 more and more and develops immense resources in its 
 interior as well as along the coast. California, the 
 country where the "citrus blossom" and the mid- 
 winter roses scent the air; the country that became tiie 
 second Colchis, has so developed since '49 that it is on a 
 
 355 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
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 ■1 
 
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 level ^vitll many ])arts of the old world and alieud of 
 others; and Panama has been the scene of the most ijji- 
 gantic engineering projects of tlie })resent age, which, 
 although they have so far failed, will eventually be 
 written upon the pages of the world's history as one of 
 its wonders. 
 
 In paying a small tribute to a few of the pioneers 
 who in one way or another had something to do with 
 the success and development of the various countries, it 
 has not escaped my observation that there are many 
 whose names ought to have been particularly noticed in 
 these pages, while want of space has not permitted me 
 to follow my own desire on this point. Yet, as I reflect 
 upon my first entrance in California and review the 
 changes that have passed over that country since those 
 days, I cannot help remembering such names as Fre- 
 mont, Sutter, Marshall, Winn and others, while it 
 appears to me that even the name of Mariano Vallejo 
 demands consideration. 
 
 But, in remembering these men, one is apt to carry 
 his reflections into the ijeneration that followed then. 
 The pioneers were sturdy, but their children were no 
 less so; that which the former founded and commenced 
 to build the latter covered with a roof and cared for, 
 and when to-day one visits the far west and sees the 
 progress and the continued development, which is taking 
 place there, it should be borne in mind that in no parts 
 of this great continent is the advancement of the country 
 due so much to the Native Son of the soil as here on 
 the Pacific Slope, where distance and the expense of 
 traveling have kept immigration within limits more so 
 than in any other parts. 
 
 It was a happy thought, which first brought about 
 the idea of establishinijj the order of Native Sons of the 
 
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 HUNTING I'OK GOLD 
 
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 Golden West, and it was conceived by a pioneer. To 
 General A. M. Winn is due tl»e credit of iiaving origi- 
 nated the desire to foiin sucli a society. It is somewhat 
 aniusiiii^ that, when the tiiought first occurred to the en- 
 thusiastic })ioneer, he coukl not iind a Native 8on old 
 enou«^h to become a duly responsible member. It was 
 in IS(k) that the (? .loral, havin<^ b(3en made Grand 
 Marshal tor the ',h of July celebration, issued a 
 
 call to voun<'' native vJalit'()rnians, uro'inLi; them to meet 
 him for the pur[)osc of forming a company in the parade. 
 
 His idea was that having created a patriotic enthu- 
 siasm amongst them, he could easily persuade them 
 afterwards to orofanize an association, and he evidently 
 foresaw that such a society woidd not oidy become an 
 ornament to the state, but also aot as one of the driving 
 wheels in the machinery which should brinix this vouiiii 
 but ambitious state to the front. For, although, in its 
 ultimate organization, politics were not among the topics 
 which might be discus.sed by the order, the sense of 
 patriotism is yet the mainspring of its existence, and 
 nothing will more thoroughly |)ermeate the principles 
 of men, guiding and directing them into one groove. 
 
 But on that June day 1SG9, when a number of young 
 Californians met in response to his summons, the 
 General was doomed to disappointment. It is a fact 
 that they attended in large numbers; that they exhibited 
 much enthusiasm and formed a pleasing feature of the 
 parade; but they were too young for organization, and 
 disbanded when the festivities were over. 
 
 But their only short-coming was one which iii time 
 mended itself The idea of a Native Californian Society 
 had been conceived, the enthusiasm created, and like an 
 avalanche, it increased until the time arrived when 
 evervthinof was readv for formation. 
 
HUXTINO rOK (lOLU 
 
 ar)i) 
 
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 the 
 fact 
 )ited 
 the 
 and 
 
 During tlie preparations, incidental to the celebration 
 of tlie Fourth of .Iiilv, 1875, (leneral Jolm McCondj 
 (Irand ^[arshal of the parade of tliat year, in.serted in 
 tlie advertising colunnis of the daily press, on the morn- 
 ing of June 24th, an invitation to the Native Sons of 
 San Francisco, over fourteen years of age to meet in the 
 Police Court room, Tuesday night, June 29th and 
 organize for the purpose of taking part in the celebration 
 of the 'national da} This [mblic; notice was the means 
 of brinixinix together the vouni»' men, who finally carried 
 into execution the formation of the order of Native ^ons 
 of the Golden West. In accordance with the call, a small 
 but enthusiastic body met and organized for the purpose 
 of taking i)art in tlie parade, and further determined to 
 perpetuate the organization under the name of the 
 .Native >^ons of the Golden i^tate, whiL* a number of those 
 present, who were under sixteen years, were debarred by 
 vote from i)articipating. Among tliose wlu) met on 
 that occasion were many, who have since become well 
 kn-own, and the followimg names are recorded: Myles V. 
 O'Donnell, Louis Patrick, Janjes McDermott, Abraham 
 Meyer, John Wilson, Walter Loveland, Charles D. 
 Okls, F. C. W. Fenn, Louis Harris, Raphael Prager, 
 Robert Aitken, James Bayliss, E. F. McKenna, E. 
 Block, Broderick Temple, George Winslow, and John 
 A. Steinback. 
 
 General Winn, who had not forgotten his plan of six 
 vears before was present. He now saw a chance of 
 having his pet idea realized, and in calling the meeting 
 to order, he briefly stated that its purpose was to form 
 a society of Native Caiifornians. 
 
 After resolving to parade on the Fourth of July, the 
 society "djourned to meet again on the First of July, 
 when Gt aeral Winn in a spirited address to the young 
 
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 111 
 
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 n(;() 
 
 HUNTINO FOR GOLD 
 
 men, used the followiiiL;' expressions: "Tliis orLiiiiiizjition 
 of younuf men under tlu; name of the Native Jr^ons of the 
 Golden i^tate is to become the future pioneers of Cali- 
 fornia. Such men as James Lick and otliers are fast 
 passinsj; away; and the rising' j^eneration will surely fill 
 their places, and the course adopted by jou is one that 1 
 liave lonuf looked for amon<jf younu' Californians. As to 
 the future of our State, never was there such an outlook 
 known in the annals o'' nistorv. 
 
 That year, '75, tlu; national day was celebrated on 
 Monday, the Fourth falliiiL? on Sunday. The Native 
 Sons made their debut in a new role; they carried a 
 liandsome silk American Ha;^, lent them by a patriotic 
 citizen, and as an eml>lem they exhibited a stuffed bear, 
 which had been found in a deserted room in Anthonv's 
 Hall. The bear ^va;^ rather the worse for moths; it was 
 a cub about three feet Unv^ and had been used as one of 
 the insii^uia of a disbanded club, but it answered the 
 purpose, and few, who to-day see the bear emblem 
 upon the breast of a Native Son, would think that it 
 originated with a nmst}', old straw-stuffed cub that had 
 been discarded by its rightful owniers. 
 
 The band of young natives made a splendid appear- 
 ance in the parade and it was noticeable that there was 
 hardly a difference of ten years between the youngest 
 and the oldest of them. After the parade the boys 
 marched to Anthony's Hall, where they held impromptu 
 literary exercises, and one of their number, F. G. W. 
 Fenn, read a poem, which he had composed for the 
 occasion. 
 
 The next meeting was held on Sunday, July 11th, 
 1875, and from this dates the beginning of the Order, 
 which here finally took the name of "Native Sons of 
 the Golden West," and John A. Steinbach was chosen 
 
HUNTINC. FOR GOLD 
 
 rid I 
 
 the first President, ultliougli Jit the time lie was sou reel y 
 twenty -one years of age. A tew months after, on Oeto- 
 her 2 1st, a party was given at Sanders' Hall in honor of 
 the vouiiLr Preside!»t, who on that day heeame of age. 
 On 1- t occasion President Steinhach made a speech 
 whic»., for force and elo(|uence, was singular as coming 
 from a man so young. In it lie said: "Our society is 
 the heginning of an Order tha't will jiroudly wave its 
 hanners over more than half the territory of the United 
 States, while its power and influence may control the 
 destinies of the Golden West. We were born in a coun- 
 try of gold and silver, at a time when the world was 
 looking for some great change, and when we presented 
 it with more nu!tals than the nations of the earth had 
 ever seen before; with agricultural products in such 
 <|uantity and ((uality as to astonish mankind, it is not to 
 be wondered at that we are proud of the land of our 
 birth; and when we consider that none but self-reliant, 
 energetic families could get here at that early day, we 
 are equally proud of our parentage," 
 
 In these last words, indeed, is the key-note to the 
 success of the Order, which was organized for the nm- 
 tual benefit, mental improvement and social intercourse 
 of its members; to perpetuate in the minds of all native 
 Californians" the memories of the days of '49, to unite 
 them in one harmonious body; tied toyether by the 
 bonds of friendship, irrespective of individual opinion on 
 religious and political matters, the discussion of which 
 is not allowed at the meetings of the Order, 
 
 Thus was established an organization v,'hich was 
 destined to exercise a decisive influence upon the state 
 that srave it birth, and to-day it is regarded as one of 
 the mainstays of California, Its members include pro- 
 fessional men of all branches; lawyers, physicians, writers. 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 hv M ! ;i 
 
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 1 1. 
 
 artists and others; men engaged in mercantile pursuits, 
 politicians, bankers, men of science and in short nearly 
 every branch of intelligent occupation is represented 
 anionijc the members of the Native Sons of the Golden 
 West. And among them are so many bright men 
 whose names shine in larger or smaller communities, as 
 their chances have allowed them, that it would be im- 
 possible here to enumerate them, and in mentioning 
 a few it must be understood that they are gathered at 
 I'andom, like the flowers plucked from a bed upon all of 
 whicli the sun throws its lustrous light. 
 
 One of the brightest men of the order is undoubtedly 
 Henry Lunstedt, the present Grand Secretary, who is a 
 native of Tuolunnie County, V)ut was educated in San 
 Francisco. Mr. Lunstedt was not satisfied with the 
 knowledge he gathered at school, and applied his leisure 
 hours to diligent study, making himself aquainted with 
 the literature of various periods and countries and subse- 
 quently becoming a writer himself, contributing to the 
 colunms of local papers and giving interesting accounts 
 of the proceedings of the organization. He was one of 
 the founders of the order, and has for twelve years held 
 the exalted office he now occupies. 
 
 This fact wnll show how much Mr. Lunstedt's services 
 are appreciated. He is considered not only a man of 
 culture and learning, but also of action and excellent 
 judgment. He exhibited from boyhood up a predelictio!i 
 for public life and has for years served with competency 
 and credit in various important and responsible capaci- 
 ties under the Municipal Government of San Francisco. 
 
 He is essentially a man of the world, and in the under- 
 takin<«'s on which his enerofies have been focussed, he 
 has shown phenomenal strength of purpose and sound 
 judgment. 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 
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 Mr Lunstedt i^' a Mason of the Scottish order, 
 and was tlie first Native Son to receive the thirtv-seeoiid 
 deijree of this fjimous rite. 
 
 In Col. Charles F. Crocker, the Golden West has a 
 fitting representative of the remarkable energies exhih- 
 ited in the State of California at the period when his 
 father and a few others built the first American Rail- 
 road which made transcontinental traveling possible. 
 Col. Crocker was born in Sacramento in 1854, and v/as 
 therefore only a boy when the great engineering work 
 was cari'ied out, but he inherited his father's practical 
 iudirment, and with the advantaiijes of surroundinofs ex- 
 cellently fitted himself for the high position he now 
 holds as First Vice-President of the Southern Pacific 
 Railroad Company. 
 
 Colonel Crocker received a liberal education both at 
 the State University of California and in Germany, 
 where he studied for several vears, and also attended the 
 Polvtechnic Institute in Brooklvn, New York. 
 
 Few men with Colonel Crocker's advantages, and en- 
 joying his great wealth, are as retired and modest as he. 
 But he has won a name as an excellent manaixer with 
 irreat executive abilitv, and one of the trustees of the 
 Leland Stanford Junior University, the order rejoiced 
 that one of their members, so representative, had been 
 honored with the call. 
 
 As a Native Son, Colonel Crocker performed most 
 graceful acts, when by his liberality he recently saved 
 the Sutter Fort property from destruction, and thus per- 
 served one of the most important historical monuments of 
 the Golden Sfate. 
 
 Among the politicians who have done credit to them- 
 selves and the far we.^t, is Anthony Caminetti, who now 
 represents the Second Congressional District of Cah- 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 365 
 
 fornia, havino^ been re-elected at tlie last ofeneral election- 
 He, too, has worked earnestly in the interest of Cali- 
 fornia history, and to his untirinof efforts is due the 
 erection of the John Marshall Monument. During '83 
 and '84 as an Assemblyman and in '86 as a State Senator 
 he persistently urged the matter until he finally ob- 
 tained a favorable ap})ropriation for the desired statue. 
 He was appointed President of the Marshall Commission, 
 and as President of the Day, delivered an eloquent ad- 
 dress at the unveiling of the statue, which took place in 
 May '90. 
 
 Mr. Caminetti is a lawyer by profession, and studied 
 for some years under the direction of the late United 
 States Senator, James T. Farley. He has established a 
 reputation as a duent speaker and sound logician, and 
 possess extraordinary endurance and power of work. 
 
 It appears that law has had a particular attraction 
 for the Native Sons of the Golden West, and many 
 bright and prominent lawyers have stepped from the 
 parlor of the order into the bright daylight of public 
 renown. They have indeed done credit to themselves 
 and the bar and have occupied, or do at present occupy, 
 many prominent positions from the Judge's seat to the 
 lawyer, who eloquently pleads the case of his client. 
 
 Among those who have especially distinguished them- 
 selves should be mentioned, Frank L. Combs, who is a 
 native of Napa, and who, having received his education 
 at the public schools, finally graduated at the Colund)ia 
 Law College, Washington, D. C. Mr. Combs early 
 distinguished himself as an orator and his fine natural 
 talents soon broutjht him to the front. In 1879 he was 
 elected District Attorney of Napa County, .succeeding 
 himself at the next election, and in 1886 he was elected 
 to the leyislature and served two terms. He soon be- 
 
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 HL'NTINC, I'OR COM) 
 
 came a loader iii politics, and durini;' the Harrison ad- 
 ministration lie was sent to Japan as Minister })leni[>o- 
 tentiary as a fittinL? recognition of talent well applied. 
 
 Jo Davies Sproul was born in Solano County, in '59. 
 His father was a pioneer and prominent physician, who 
 removed to Chico ten years after the birth of his son. 
 Young Sproul received the appointment for West Point 
 Military Academy; but after two years' sojourn there he 
 gave up the idea of wielding the sword and returned to 
 take up the study of law, which he successfully com- 
 pleted under the guidance of F. C. Lusk, the leading- 
 lawyer of Northern California. ThtJ change .suited the 
 former aspirant to military honors, and he soon gained 
 a lucrative practice and hosts of friends. 
 
 One of the most remarkable mend)ers of the Order of 
 Native Sons is h'rank D. Kyan. Scarcely thirty-four 
 years of aixe: he has already been sent to legislature from 
 Sacramento, has officinted as chief clerk of the assembly 
 during two sessions thereof and is the present District 
 Attorney of Sacramento County. Mr. Ryan is als^ a 
 member of the Sutter Fort Commission and will un- 
 doubtedly prove one of the most efficient workers in that 
 important body. 
 
 When Hastin«'-'s Law Colloijfe sent out John T Greanv 
 a younsf man went into i)ractice, who is likely to reach 
 the top of the ladder. Mr Gri.^any, who was born in '60 
 had [)reviously studied at St. Mary's College and taken 
 the degree of M. A. Shortly after he was admitted to 
 the bar he was intrusted with the management of the 
 famous Blythe estnte, which was then in the hands of 
 Philip A. Roach, as administrator. While in this im- 
 portant position, managing an estate worth several 
 million dollar*-;, he displayed phenomenal ability as an ac- 
 curate and careful steward, and when, in the course of 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 3G7 
 
 time, lie i^ave up his stevvardshi}); lie was IiIl^IiIv roiii- 
 ineiided for the excellent inaiiiier, in which lie had pci- 
 fornied his work. 
 
 One of the most active of Native Sons is Robert M. 
 Fitzo-erald, who was born in San Francisco in '08. 
 Shortly after, his parents removed to Sonoma County, 
 and later on to Contra Costa County. Mr. Fitz^yeraid 
 attended the Oakland Hioh School, and durinjj^ this 
 early period of his life he was called upon to assist his 
 widowed mother and before graduating spent one year 
 on her farm, manaofing it for her. He then returned 
 to school and, taking up his studies with a will, was ad- 
 mitted to the State University, with the class of '83 
 
 Mr. F'itz'jerald soon gained a lucrative practice as a 
 lawyer as well as the confidence and love of the com- 
 munity iu which he lived. Although he never made him- 
 self conspicuous as a politician, lie has been repeatedly 
 called upon to run for prominent offices and was on the 
 first board of Commissioners of Public Works in the city 
 of Oakland, California. 
 
 Another legal light, which was kindled at Hastings', 
 College, may be found in Marcellus A. Dorn. He is 
 both physically and intellectually atypical representative 
 of the sturdy Pioneer, being a man of high mental at- 
 tainments and commanding presence. He is a native of 
 Los Anixeles and graduated from the State Universitv, 
 and ho has always been noted for his fine address and 
 more than ordinarv power of oratorv. 
 
 Among the Native Sons, who went abroad for their 
 education and returned home, bent upon shc^wing their 
 splendid achievements, should be mentioned Albert F. 
 Jones, who was born in Colusa County in '58 and finished 
 his studies at Yale University in 1879. That same year 
 he was admitted to practice in the Supreme Courts of 
 
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 HUNTIN(i FOR (iOLD 
 
 C()nnu(;tic'ut and California and in "H'2 lie was cloctod 
 District Attorney of Butte County, where he has resided 
 since 1880. He was afterwards sent ^o tlie State Sen- 
 ate and became Cliairnian of tLo Judiciary Committee, 
 beinj^' the youn!j;est man whf) ever filled that iniportant 
 position in the California legishiture. Governor Bart- 
 lett a|)pointed him Aitl-de-Canij) with the rank of Lieuten- 
 ant Colonel, and he held the same olHce with Governor 
 Waterman. 
 
 In Yolo County there was, some years ai;o, a young 
 plow boy, known as Charles H. Garoutte. When his 
 day's work was over he would take to liis books, and, 
 when op[)ortunity afforded itself, he fref[U(>nted the state 
 school, studying with a wonderful Zealand finally obtain- 
 'm<j: a colleiiiate education at Hesperian Colleure, Wood- 
 land. He taught afterwards in the public schools, do- 
 voting his leisure hours to the study of law, and in 1H7G 
 he was admitted to practice by the Supreme Court of 
 the State. The following year he was elected District 
 Attorney for Yolo County and was re-elected upon the 
 expiration of the term. He finally went into active 
 practice and succeeded in gaining the good will and re- 
 sj)ect of the comnmnity to such a degree that a few years 
 after he was elected Judge of the Su[»erior Court of Yolo 
 County, being the youngest Judge on the entire bench 
 of the State. In this office also, he gained the confi- 
 dence of the people and filled it with credit t>) liimself 
 and to the satisfaction of his constituents, resulting in 
 his final elevation to the Supreme Court bench. 
 
 Durin^'' his official term as Judi^e he has heard some 
 of the most important cases ever tried in the State, and 
 as a member of the order of Native Sons, he enjoys the 
 m'and distinction of having broken the greatest electoral 
 deadlock, known in the annals of the order. In 188G» 
 
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 HITNTINf*. I'OK COhl) 
 
 when tlic (;lraii(l P;ulor met in VVotxiluixl, Ik; was a 
 }.'rari(l trustee; and (liH|»lay(Ml marked parliamentary abil- 
 ity, hy reaHon of wliieli lio was with one accord Hcleeted 
 to disHolvo tlie trianj^ular contest for th(;«(rand vieo-pres- 
 id(;ncy. Hin (;hoiee for the place was made by an unan- 
 imous vote, an(i in the followin;^ year lie Ixcame (^rand 
 J^resident. 
 
 As has IxM^n already shown the le<^al fraternity is lib- 
 erally represented in the order of Native Sons, but no 
 memb(;r <A' it rell<;cts mon; honor upon his (dioscn |)ro- 
 fcssion or possesses more friends and admirers than does 
 Krederi<;k (J. Clift, who was born in C;}rass Valley in 
 IHOZ. Justice (jlift is an Oakland lavvy(!rand Maj^istrate, 
 who [)Ursued his studies under the Lniidanco ofNathaniel 
 l>enn(;tt, on(M)f tlx^ J udj^es of the first Su[)reme Court of 
 (Jalifornia, and P. D. Wiurrintori, an ex-meml>er of Con- 
 ^aess. In IH'.H) lu; was admitU.'d to th(^ bar by tlie Su- 
 j)reme Court, then in session in Sarrramento, and two 
 years after he was <leeted Justice of the J*ea(;e for Oak- 
 lan<l Township with an overwlujlmin^ majority. 
 
 Althou^di the discussi(jn of politics is not f)ermitt(;<J in 
 the [)arlors of the Order of Native Sons, it will be ob- 
 served, nevertheless, that the members take a lively in- 
 terest in political affairs. 
 
 But, it should b(; observed, that the Native Sons liave, 
 at all times end(;avored as far as [)ossible to jjurify th<;ir 
 jj^overnment. In a younj^ <;ountry as a matter of course, 
 certain elements often a[)f)ear in the f)(;rsons of adven- 
 turers and other undesirable intruders, who wish to 
 take advantaj^e of the crude circumstances existiri<^, arid 
 raise tliemselves to positi(»nf: for whicli they were never 
 <)Ualified. When the pioneers first came to California, 
 law and order were at a premium; but, as the Nativ(3 
 Sons grew u[), the (.-ountry, step by step, assumed the 
 
HUNTINd l-iiH (,OlA) 
 
 :}7i 
 
 liavo, 
 Jicir 
 
 irne, 
 |V(;li- 
 |i to 
 
 and 
 lever 
 
 piia, 
 
 itive 
 the 
 
 hIiujm; of u w(!ll <)r<^ariiz(Ml Stat(;, and in tlnir hands, 
 nintc! tlian in any otiier.s lias l>oen left a [irccious trust, 
 <if" wliicli tliev ar(; indeed tiikin<f <ro()d (.'are. 
 
 It is i!itere'stin<i to notiee tlie vi'^orous, aiuJ it sliould 
 l»e' said Kuc(!(!ssf'ui, attempts nijid(; \>y tlie native ele-nnMit 
 to introduJM; in«!ans tor tlnj furtherance of pure pohties. 
 ('aiifornia was one of the lirst states to adopt the' 
 Australian hallot svstt.'ni, and (jve'rvthin"" is helnLf done 
 in the State for the j)urt)os<i of puttin;^ down corrupt 
 pnicticoH in htj^islaturi;. 
 
 In this res[)(;ct VV^illiajii K, 1 learst c(Mn<;s proniin(;ntIy 
 to tin; front as tin; founder mikI jiroprietor of a newspap(;r, 
 which from first to last has fou;^ht for punj principles. 
 His fatlnir, the late lJnit(,'d Stat(!H Senator Ifearst, was 
 oiKi of th(i lucky [)ion(j(;rH, whos(j wealth (iuahhid him to 
 satisfy Um cravini^s of his and>itious son. Youn<c II(;arst 
 want(;d a n(;ws|>ap<!r and he finally etitahlished the San 
 Kran(;isco Daily Kxainlnar, which as a ne\VK[)a[)er enter- 
 prise, rardcs as one of tli(j first in the States, at all events ' 
 relatively H[)eakinJ^^ 'I'hrou^^h its columiiH Mr. Hearst 
 lias fou^rht for everythin;.,^ that is ri;^dit and just. The 
 s(diemin(^ [)olitician, the unscrupulous mani[)ulator of 
 municipal affairs, the man in [)ower, who ahuses the trust 
 r«'posed in him — all, in fact, who (!vade the law of morals 
 and conscience, have iri Mr. Hearst their arch foe. 
 Arm(;d with a most jxjpular and wid(jly circulated pai>er, 
 assisted hy an arrrjy of talent(;d m<ii, he [)ursues the 
 ofi'ender to the hitter end, and in lej^islalure, in the 
 courts of justice, in th(i various pul>lic d('[)artnients has 
 the Native Son, throuj^^h William Ji. He-arstsenta warn- 
 ing call to all evil doers who att(.'m[)t to cast a blemish 
 U[)or» the fair name of (Jalifornia. 
 
 At the time of writing; this two other nauK 
 
 ' Uos< 
 
 na 
 
 suggest thern.selves to my mind as being those of po 
 
 bei 
 
 turally 
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 tunaiis (if tli(^ clear-cut school. '^I'licy arc Dr. (IcorL^c (J. 
 Panh'c of Oijklajid and Levi R. Ellcrtof'Saii Krancisco) 
 each ill Ills place enjoying the honor of l)eini^ Mayor of 
 the community \n) rcprcisents, and botli elected on the so- 
 call(;d citizens' or non-partisan ticket. 
 
 Tliis ticket is tlu^ outcome of viL*'<>rous attempts to 
 resist dastardly <)nslauj.^ht on pure |)olitical princi[)les, 
 hroui^ht about hy a foreitni element, which took advantam? 
 of nati(jnal ])oliti(;al enthusiasm to work some hidden 
 schemes in local affairs. 
 
 JiJut these two Native Sons took u|) the i)attle for the 
 just cause, and were vi(;torious. The reason is obvious; 
 they had tlie sym[)atliy of the native element, which 
 recojjJiized the fact that their affairs nmst be ij^iven into 
 the hands of riijjht thinking' men. Mr. Ellert has exten- 
 sive l)usiness interests in San Fiancisco and has h(;ld im- 
 portant ofHces in the Order, and J)r. Pardee resides in 
 Oakland, where his father has lived for many years. 
 He is lield in marked esteem for his personal (|ualities, 
 his professional attainments and his integity and honesty 
 of purj)ose in all that lie undertakes. He is a L''ra(luate 
 from the State University and afterwards studied in 
 Germany, where he made ophthalmology his sj)ecialty. 
 
 Ste})hen M. White, another Native Son, has come 
 j)rominently to tVc front as a true patriot. On the 18th 
 of January, '!).'}, he was elected United States Senator, 
 even his political opponents voting for liim. His own 
 character is well depicted in the closing words of his 
 address, when he said : "For those, who opposed me 
 from duty, I have nothing but the kindliest feeling, and 
 for those who opposed me from other motives, this liour 
 is my triumph." Tlie Oakland Enquirer, a paper opposed 
 to White in politics, but an advocate of pure politics, 
 wrote about his election : "It is a ijreat deal better to 
 
IIUNTINC. FOR HOLD 
 
 :}7;{ 
 
 send to tli(! Semite a niuii like White witli brains in liis 
 head, tlian tn i^lect an old nioney-ha«jfs,who.s(! (juahKcation 
 consists inertily in ,L«ivin^ }ii?r)0,000 to a canipaij^n fund." 
 
 Mr. White's career, tliroughout, Iims heen oik; inces- 
 Hant triumpli. lie was horn in San Kraiicisro hut early 
 removed to Los Aiiu^eles. He inherited J)(Mn()cratie 
 sentiments from liis father, who was a lawyer, a writer 
 and a politician, and in '71) was nominated for (jiovernor hy 
 the workinjjf men, YounL? White studied law and early 
 ,i,^ained a n^putation as a speaker and a logician, and wli(;n 
 he en'ij;ai;ed in politics rapidly rose to distinction. At 
 th(! time of (lovcTuor Bartlett's (h.-ath White was Presi- 
 dent of the Senat(3, and when Wat(!rman })ccame 
 (lovernor, he took the ofHce of Ijieutenant (governor. 
 At the Democratic National Convention in St Louis, in 
 'H8, Stei)heu M. White was made (chairman of the Cou- 
 v(!ntion, pn»vin<»' that tlu^ appreciation of his rare; abilities 
 ai'e hy no means local hut have secured for him a liiL,di 
 national reputation. 
 
 A very popular man amonj^ liis many a([uaintances is 
 J)r. Charles W. ]Jecker, who has met with nm<.-h suc- 
 cess in liis [)ra(;tice as a dentist. Dr. Decker is a nusm- 
 her, it is said, of more orders tliaii any other Native 
 Son, and has made himself lx;st known as the author of 
 the ritual and secret work under which the order lias 
 now been governed for several years. 
 
 H. C. Chi[)man, one of Sacramento's })rominent men, 
 was born in that city in '5'}. He has followed the trade 
 of a Sign painter all his life, but his rare intelligence has 
 secured for him public honors, of which lie may well be 
 proud. For three successive terms Mr. Chipman held 
 a seat on the B©ard of education, where he did some ex- 
 cellent work, and in the fall '92 lie was elected to the 
 assembly to represent tlie twenty-first (Hstrict 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 374 
 
 In the order of Native Soiii, 
 ways been particularly active. He is a ciiarC^Wineniber 
 of Sacramento Parlor, No. 3, and attended the first 
 Grand Parlor in '82, when he was elected Grand Presi- 
 dent, thus being the first upon whom that exalted office 
 was bestowed. He is also at present the Senior Past 
 Grand President, and expresses his appreciation of the 
 Society by saying: "I have never thought enough of 
 any others to join them; the Native Sons are all I care 
 for." 
 
 If there be a class of men upon whom the welfare of 
 California more particularly depends, it is the agricultu- 
 ral, and among the farmers the order of Native Sons is 
 most worthily represented. One of their brightest 
 members, Thomas Flint, jr., whose sterling qualities and 
 peculiar fitness for his chosen vocation has made him one 
 of California's most extensive and wealthy farmers. 
 
 Mr. Flint was born in San Benito County, and has 
 lived there most of his life. He received a liberal edu- 
 cation at Dartmouth College, New Hampshire, but laid 
 aside his books, after graduating, in order to follow the 
 pleasant life of a rural occupation. His clear judgment 
 and sound sense soon attracted the attention of all who 
 came in contact with him. He was one of the most ac- 
 tive members of the County Board of Trade, and also 
 has a seat in the State Board of Trade. His sterling 
 qualities secured for him a seat in the Legislature, 
 where he has done good work, and he is spoken of by all 
 who know him, as a man generous to a fault, and ever 
 ready to give his fellow-man the benefit of his own ex- 
 perience. In the order of Native Sons, Mr, Flint stands 
 high, and no one is more devoted to its cause than he, 
 notwithstandinof that he is a orominent member of other 
 important orders 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 375 
 
 The year 1 left California for British Columbia there 
 was born in Yuba County a boy whose future career 
 testifies to the sterling qualities with which he had been 
 endowed at his birth. His name is Fred H. Greely, he 
 is a native of Galena Hill, and no one more truly depicts 
 the full vigor of the youth of the California soil. After 
 graduating at the Marysville High, School he went 
 east and finished his studies at the Maine Wesley an 
 Seminary, at Keats Hill, Me., where he gradua^ted in 
 1880. 
 
 But Mr. Greely's mind was bent upon mercantile 
 pursuits, and upon his return to the Yuba he took up 
 his residence in Marysville, where he obtained an en- 
 gagement as Secretary to the Buckeye Flour Mills with 
 which he has been identified ever since. It was not long 
 ere his fellow citizens fully recognized his superior qual- 
 ifications for the prominent oflSces in their community, 
 and in 1886 he was elected Mayor of Marysville and 
 filled this position with credit to himself and satisfaction 
 to his townsmen. 
 
 Two years after he contested with Congressman 
 Berry for the Senatorship of the twelfth District, which 
 had become vacant by the death of A. L. Chandler. 
 
 Once more his many friends rallied to his support, and 
 he was sent to the post of honor with a handsome ma- 
 jority. Mr. Greely comes of the real old pioneer stock, 
 the early settlers in the wilderness of California, whose 
 energies, perseverance and undaunted courage made it 
 possible for others to follow in their foot-prints, and 
 build the cities where stood before the canvas tents. 
 
 Another Native Son, who has engaged in mercantile 
 pursuits is Robert P. Wieland. He inherited from his 
 father a large fortune, but also a temperament which did 
 not allow him to take any undue advantage of the favors 
 
370 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 thrust upon him by the fickle Dame. He is modest, 
 unpretentious and generous, and is noted for bis splendid 
 business talents and sound common sense. 
 
 After leaving school he attended Heald's Business 
 College, and subsequently graduated from a business 
 college in Louisville, Kentucky. Upon his return home 
 he at once entered upon active duty in the Philadelphia 
 Brewery, as shipping clerk, and is now the senior raen\ber 
 of that extensive establishment. 
 
 Few men possess greater business abilities and activity 
 than M. Wieland. Besides the important position he 
 holds in his own firm, he is President of the California 
 Bottling Company, President of the A. Folsom and 
 Company, a big carriage-building concern, and Vice- 
 president of the Clinton Consolidated Mining Company, 
 of which his brother Charles is President. But in ad- 
 dition to all this, he is widely identified with fraternal 
 organizations and other institutions. He is a member 
 of every German fraternal order is San Francisco, of 
 several Masonic Fraternities, and is a life member of the 
 Olympic Club. He is also Lieutenant in the Light 
 Battery A, N. G., and holds a commission as Second 
 Lieutenant in the California Drill Corps. 
 
 As a member of the order of Native Sons, Mr. Wie- 
 land has enjoyed many distinctions, the foremost of all, 
 perhaps, being the great popularity he has achieved 
 among his associates. 
 
 Among those of the Native Sons who have distin- 
 guished themselves whilst holding public office, should 
 be mentioned John. A. Grady He was born in San 
 Francisco in '52 and is among the patriarchs of the Order, 
 and no one has worked more zealously for its advance- 
 ment than he. He assisted in organizing the first Grand 
 Parlor and was afterwards elected the first Grand Presi- 
 
If 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 377 
 
 dent. In the public departments Mr. Grady has served 
 terms as Tax-collector of San Francisco, and also 
 as Deputy State Treasurer, and in both offices he has 
 proved himself a man of integrity and sound business 
 management, reflecting great credit upon his administra- 
 tion of public atiairs. 
 
 I cannot here pass by the memory of one who was 
 dear to all who knew him — the late Frank J. Higgins, 
 who died in San Francisco on the 3d of January, 1889, 
 after a most active life, in which he used his best efforts 
 and energies in the public service and for the benefit of 
 the order of Native Sons. 
 
 Mr. Higgins was for many years a special revenue of- 
 ficer, stationed in San Diego, where his native affability 
 secured him nianv friends. He lived there durino; the 
 good days of Southern California, and accumulated quite 
 a fortune through careful management and judicious in- 
 vestment, and his early death was a grief, not only to 
 his fellow-members of the Order, but to all who had en- 
 joyed business or friendly relations with him during his 
 very active life. 
 
 Mr. Higgins was born in Tuolumne County and was 
 educated in San Francisco. He was a life-long friend of 
 Grand Secretary Lunstedt, a charter member of the Or- 
 der, and one of its early Presidents. At his funeral was 
 expressed, in many fitting ways, the great esteem in 
 which he was held, and the sorrow that his death 
 broutjht to the hearts of all who knew him. But his 
 memory is garlanded with the flowers that never fade — 
 the immortelles of love, and friendship, and respect. 
 
 I have now, to the best of ray ability, brought out" the 
 native element of the Golden West, in its brightest col- 
 ors. I would not presume to say that outside the Order 
 to which I refer, this element does not distinctly exist, 
 
^ir 
 
 i'K 
 
 378 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 nor do I even know, for certain, that everybody I have 
 mentioned here, belono-s to the brotherhood. But 
 it must be conceded that this fraternity of Native Sons 
 is productive of much good, and if, as an old pioneei, aiy 
 opinion is worthy of notice, I would urge upon all the 
 desirability of joining an organization which holds to- 
 gether so many excellent forces, and is established witli 
 such a noble aim. 
 
 I have shown, too, the presence within its limits, of 
 representatives from nearly all walks of life. The far- 
 mer, the merchant, the physician, the lawyer, the edi- 
 tor, the artisan, the politician, and I presume it would 
 be possible to follow this up until all and everybody has 
 been included in the ranks of the Order. When I re- 
 flect upon the establishment of this society, and review 
 the part that the native element has taken in moulding 
 the State into its present shape, I am bound to admit 
 that the foresight of General Winn was keen, and the 
 realization of his pet dream was a most fortunate event in 
 the history of this State. I began my book by describ- 
 ing the early days of California, and it is but fitting that in 
 closing it, I should pay a tribute to those whose patri- 
 otic enthusiasm has helped so much towards establish- 
 iniif and ortranizino; the Golden State. "In union there 
 is strength," is an old but true saying, and it is by re- 
 membering this, that the Native Sons of California will 
 ultimately succeed in raising this to one of the foremost 
 States, pursuing their onward march, but revering as 
 they advance, the milestones left behind them, not for- 
 getting the very first one raised by the early pioneers. 
 
SOMK OF 
 
 MY 
 
 EARLY FRIENDS. 
 
 379 
 
DAN T. COLE. 
 
 There is probably no man identified with the early 
 days of pioneer settlers on the river Yuba, who has come 
 more prominently to the front, than Dan T. Cole, at 
 present a member of the board of Harbor Commissioners. 
 But notwithstanding this, there is no man occupying a 
 high office or holding a responsible position, more 
 modest than Mr. Cole. He is a thorough American 
 and to-day more proud, by far, of the liours he has 
 spent in hard work and honest sweat, thaii he is of the 
 greatest distinction thrust upon him by an appreciative 
 Executive who recognized his worth and ability. 
 
 Mr. Cole is a native of the state of Vermont and 
 came to Sacramento in the year '52. After a sojourn 
 of three years in that city, he spent one year in Alvarado, 
 and then removed to Sierra County, where he has re- 
 sided most of the time since, his home, "Mountain 
 House," being well known to a large circle of friends. 
 
 Mr. Cole is an ardent Republican. For thirty years 
 he has been a delegate to the State Convention, and 
 last year he was sent as a representative to the National 
 Republican Convention, held at Minneapolis, 
 
 Mr. Cole owns large property interests in Yuba 
 County, and is one of the directors of the Northern Cal- 
 ifornia Bank of Savings in Marysville. He is also 
 largely interested in hotel and mill property in Yuba 
 County, and about four years ago he invested largely in 
 
 380 
 
carlv 
 scome 
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 ioners. 
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 lends. 
 
 years 
 >n, and 
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 Yuba 
 n Cal- 
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 Yuba 
 ;ely in 
 
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 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 !?; 
 
 real estate in San Francisco, expending about $G0,000 
 on buildings in that city, where ,ue now resides. 
 
 During many years of incessant activity Mr. Cole has 
 been engaged in staging, saw-milling, mining and team- 
 ing, and for ten years he was a member of the board of 
 Supervisors of Sierra County. At the time when his 
 appointment as Harbor commissioner was rumored, his 
 enemies foolishly tried to besmirch his character by 
 publishing that he had been a stage-driver. As a mat- 
 ter of fact Mr. Cole never drove a stasfo himself, but he 
 is the last man to blush at the idea of having handled 
 the reins in the pursuit of an honest living, and the 
 accusation, false as it was, ratherer flattered than 
 annoyed him. 
 
 Referring to Mr. Cole's appointment to the Board of 
 Harbor Connnissioners the Marysville Democrat remarks 
 under date of January, 16, '93: "His appointment will be 
 received with general satisfaction, and he will be found an 
 efficient and honest official, who will at all times stay 
 with the people and oppose boodle measures, whether in 
 the office he fills, or in the attempt to force an unfit man 
 on to the people of California in the office of United 
 States Senator." 
 
 This comes from a paper opposed in politics to Mr. 
 Cole, but having known him personally for many years, 
 and the high opinion expressed for the Commissioner in 
 these lines, is well backed by all who know him and 
 have had an opportunity to watch him in his private and 
 public life. In both spheres Mr. Cole enjoys the high- 
 est regard and it would not be out of place here to 
 mention that he is blessed with a home where a model 
 wife, who has stood by him during his years of struggle, 
 presides over a family circle in which he is considered 
 the best of fathers and a most devoted husband. 
 
jO,000 
 
 )le has 
 teaiii- 
 ard of 
 en his 
 ed, his 
 tor by 
 a mat- 
 but he 
 landled 
 ud the 
 1 than 
 
 oard of 
 
 emarks 
 
 : will be 
 
 )und an 
 
 es stay 
 
 ther in 
 
 fit man 
 
 United 
 
 I to Mr. 
 
 years, 
 loner in 
 [im and 
 late and 
 |e high- 
 
 lere to 
 model 
 
 ;ruggle, 
 
 sidered 
 
 GEOKGE C. PERKINS. 
 
 No man is better known tiiroughout the State of Cal- 
 ifornia than George C. Perkins, and it safe to say that 
 none is more highly esteemed in the Golden State. In 
 saying so, one may not fear being accused of empty fiat 
 tery, but rather, perhaps, of having expressed too inade- 
 quately the great worth of a most excellent man. 
 
 Mr. Perkins arrived in California from his home in 
 New England, in the fall of 1855. At that time he 
 was a beardless youth, but had, nevertheless, seen much 
 of the \vt)rld as a sailor, having: made his first vovaoje as 
 a cabin-boy when only twelve years of age. A few days 
 after his arrival here he went to Sacramento, by schoon- 
 er, and saw for the first time the city in which he should 
 afterwards play a part entrusted to only the highest offi- 
 cers of the State. From Sacramento he \valked to Oro- 
 ville, a distance of one hundred miles, and displayed that 
 energy and persistency which gave the impetus to his 
 splendid career. 
 
 At that time his resources were few, but his enter- 
 prise and ambition were great. He first followed min- 
 ing, and afterwards teaming and lumbering, but not be- 
 ingr satisfied with the small remuneration he received 
 for his labors, he finally engaged in mercantile pursuits 
 as a clerk in the store of Hedley & Knight. Here he 
 laid the foundation to rapid advancement. He became 
 instrumental in establishing the Bank of Butte County, 
 built the Ophir Flour Mill, and also became interested 
 
 !■! 
 
 I 
 
 38:! 
 
m 
 
 -%( ^-^- 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 385 
 
 ill ininnit,', sawmills and .slieep-turuiing. Ho throve won- 
 derfully, and the success of his various enterprises not 
 only redounded t(^ his own advantage, but added to the 
 Wealth of the entire country. 
 
 No wonder, then, that Mr. Perkins soon became a 
 very popular man. In addition to his rare abilities as a 
 business man, he was po.ssesscd of many personal traits 
 which endeared him to a large circle of frietids, and at 
 their earnest solicitation ho entered the political arena 
 on the Re[)ublican side, being also hero destined to meet 
 with un(iualifiod success. He became a State Senator, 
 and during his stay at the Capital, formed a friendship 
 with Captain Go(jdall, of San Francisco, the result of 
 which was the formation of the firm of Goodall, Perkins 
 & Co., which to-day is one of the leading shipping en- 
 terprises of the coast, and it may be said, of the world. 
 
 Mr. Perkins' rise to the gubernatorial office was the 
 crowning success of his life, showing by a tremeridous 
 majority the great confidence which the people of Cali- 
 fornia repose in him. Mr. Perkins is a member of many 
 orders; he is a prominent Free Mason, and is foremost 
 in a number of charitable societies. In opening up a 
 steady trade between San Francisco and Alaska, Mr. 
 Perkins became the Pioneer who made it possible for 
 the business man and traveler alike, to visit that inter- 
 esting land w^ith comfort and at a small expense, and his 
 splendid line of steamers, calling at Alaskan ports, is 
 not only one of his largest enterprises, but is probably 
 the one which is most universally known and appre- 
 ciated. 
 
880 
 
 IIUNTINC, FOR COM) 
 
 I 
 
 
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 i 
 
 Ml > 
 
 i ! 
 
 li. 
 
 ! ; 
 
 \\> 
 
 ii ' 
 
 !!> 
 
 JAMES W. ORNDORFF. 
 
 Among tlie Pioneers of California, none, perliups, is 
 more popular than James W, Orndorff, the [)roprietor of 
 the Cafe lloyal, in the Flood Building, Market street, 
 San Francisco. Mr, Orndorff came to this State in 'r)2, 
 from Zanesville, Ohio. He is of good old American 
 stock, of German and Irish descent, but both sides of his 
 family have been Anrcricans for generations. 
 
 Arriving in the Golden State, the subject of this 
 sketch at once turned his attention to mining, and chose 
 the Yuba gold field for his first prospecting operations, 
 remaining for ten years in various parts of that locality. 
 In Sierra County in 1854, he put in the first hydraulic 
 pipe made of sheet iron. It was a primitive affair and 
 would compare badly with present appliances for the 
 same purposes, but it did its work nevertheless. During 
 those years Mr. Orndorff was more in particular identi- 
 fied with Grizzly Hill, in Sierra County; and he went 
 through all the hardships of early mining in those regions. 
 
 In 18G3 Mr. Orndorff removed to Virginia City, and 
 spent seventeen years on or about the famous Comstock 
 mines, partly engaged in practical mining and at other 
 times cateriuix to the amusement and comforts of his 
 fellow men. Thus he was atone time an overseer in the 
 Fairvicw mine, while at another he conducted the Ash- 
 land Hotel. He also ran the Billiard Rooms at the 
 Washoe Hotel, where congregated in those days all the 
 men of note, a motly gathering, representing many na- 
 tionalities and as o-reat a varietv of characters. 
 
 While in Virginia City he took a prominent interest 
 in everything appertaining to the fire department. He 
 was Foreman of Company No. I, and afterwards of Com- 
 pany No. 6, which he helped to organize; and his popu- 
 larity in that community may be judged from the fact 
 
 38G 
 
terest 
 
 Ho 
 
 Com- 
 
 .: I 
 

 !l 
 
 388 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 that he was twice elected an Alderman of the city. He 
 is now an honored ineiiiber of the Veternau Firemen of 
 San Faancisco, but strancrelv enoucfh does not otherwise 
 belong to any fraternity or order. 
 
 As a business man Mr. Orndorff has been successful, 
 principally owing to his natural attractions, his sound 
 judgment of men and circumstance, and his even temper- 
 ament. He is supposed to be second to none as an 
 amateur billiardist and has always taken a remarkable 
 interest in that game. He originated the idea of the 
 })atent pool table, with every ball into a common box 
 after passing the pocket, and he had the first table of the 
 kind built, which may yet be seen at the Billiard room 
 of the Baldwin Hotel, San Francisco. But in all other 
 spor{s IVfr. Orndorfl has always taken particular interest, 
 and from his very youth he hae been ever ready to make 
 matches tending to the elevation of sports. 
 
 Mr. Orndorff is a great lover of i.nimals and is one of 
 the best read authorities on poulty in the state. He is 
 also, a collector of curios and has a very interesting mu- 
 seum at his place of business. He is a very pleasant 
 companion and his affability is calculated to make many 
 friends for him, which, indeed has been amply demon- 
 strated through the many years of incessant activity, he 
 has spent on the Pacific Coast. No doubt there are 
 many, who, reading this, will remember with pleasure 
 their stalwart friend from ahe Gold-fields, and rejoice at 
 once more hearing of Genial "Jim" Orndorff. 
 
I! 
 
 ire 
 at 
 
 HON. EDvGAR DUDNEY. 
 
 Edgar Dudney arrived in British Columbia in the 
 earlv dayts. He was educated as a civil en<{ineer, and 
 turned his knowledge of tliis profession to good account 
 immediately on his arrival in the new, and then mostly 
 unknown, country. 
 
 There are few men who have more thoroughly ex- 
 plored the mountainous regions of British Columbia, 
 than has Mr. Dudney. As a prospector and surveyor 
 he penetrated early into many then unknown quarters, 
 and located mining claims in the interior of the colony 
 as the roads thither gradually became o]iened,and in this 
 regard much credit is also due to Mr. Dudnev as a 
 gentleman w4iose efforts helped to bring about final 
 settlement of laruje and uninhabited tracts of land. 
 
 As a result of his explorations, Mr. Dudney acquired 
 an extensive knowledge of the nature and requirements 
 of the country, and paid particular attention to the 
 condition of the natives, wlierefore, also, Sir John Mc- 
 Donald was pleased to offer him a portfolio in his cabinet 
 as minister of Indian affairs, and in this position Mr. 
 Dudney rendered his country important services, and 
 proved himself an able administrator. 
 
 The final success in Mr. Dudnev's career was achieved 
 when Her Britanic Majesty appointed him Governor of 
 the colony, an office which he still holds. In this capac- 
 ity Mr. Dudney has proved himself worthy of the trust 
 
 3ft'.t 
 
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 iv 
 
 'i 
 
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 I 
 
 ^ /d-^^C<r^7x.^£t^^ 
 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 891 
 
 reposed in him, and is one of the most popular Governors 
 that ever conducted the affairs of tlie colony. Notwith- 
 standmg he is the last of the number, he is generally 
 known as the Pioneer Governor, because of the many 
 services he rendered the pioneers in the early days and 
 It IS safe to say that among th<3m he is held in partic- 
 ular esteem, and they, perhaps, more than any other 
 class of men, appreciate those sterling qualities which 
 have brought him to the honorable post he now occu- 
 pies. 
 
ml n'f' 
 
 iml 
 
 ROBERT DUNSMUIR. 
 
 As early as 1849, Robert Duiisnmir, left Ayrshire, in 
 Scotland, under an engagement with tlie Hudson Bay 
 Company. He settled in Nanaimo, Vancouver Island, 
 as Superintendent of the local branch of this extensive 
 Company, and soon achieved universal popularity. 
 
 Besides proving himself a business man of rare ability, 
 Mr. Dunsmuir also engaged, from the very start, in 
 various kinds of philanthropic movements, gaining a 
 host of friends by his generous and charitable disposition. 
 
 One of Mr. Dunsnmir's first ventures was prospecting 
 for coal. In his native country he had learned enough 
 about the black diamond to appreciate its value, and 
 recognized its existence wherever found, and it was, 
 therefore, not to be wondered at that he met with un- 
 qualified success in a country, which is rich in coal. 
 
 He gradually extended his speculation, and bought ex- 
 tensive mines in Union, Komax District, which proved 
 a most profitable speculation. 
 
 Later on, Mr. Dunsmuir built the Esquimalt and 
 Nanaimo N. G. R. 11., which became a very payable 
 concern, and, indeed, is a great acquisition to the country 
 through which it passes. 
 
 But the crowning success of Mr. Dunsmuir's life was 
 when he secured a larsfe interest in the Wellino^ton 
 coal mines, situated at Wellington, above Nanaimo. 
 
 392 
 
 '11;^ 
 
ROBERT DUNSMUIR. 
 
1 
 
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 HI 
 
 
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 1 
 
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 804 
 
 HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 There an: few people in America who have not heard of 
 tlie product turned out so extensively at these mines, 
 and upon the death of Mr. Kobert Dunsnmir, his eldest 
 son, Alexander, became the head of the business, and is 
 now conductinof the local depot for California in Sau 
 Francisco. 
 
 The recollection of the subject of this brief sketch is 
 dear to all who knew him, and none of his old friends 
 can read this tribute to his memory, without remember- 
 ing a good man, a faithful friend and a thorough bus- 
 iness man. 
 
 !i 
 
 ff 
 
WILLIAM IRWIN. 
 
 Ainoiiix the men who have donei^ood and lioncst work 
 for Cahfornia, that of Wiihaiii Irwin is inscribed upon 
 one of the foremost pages of the history of this State. 
 
 Mr. Irwin was a native of Ohio, and devoted his 
 youth to a college education and the study of law, which 
 excellently fitted him for the important positions which 
 he afterwards held. 
 
 In the year 1852, being then twenty-six years of 
 ayje, Mr. Irwin came to California, and at once enifaiifed 
 In practical business is Siskiyou County. He led a most 
 active life, and was successively a bulcher, a miner, the 
 the owner of a livery stable, and afterwards, of a line of 
 stage-coaches, finally becoming proprietor of the Yreka 
 Union, which he raised to one of the most important 
 country papers in the State. 
 
 In 1861 he was elected to the Assembly, from Siski- 
 you, and although he served only one term, this was 
 the beginning of a long and important public career. In 
 1869 he was elected to the Senate, and upon the expira- 
 tion of his term, was re-elected, being chosen during the 
 latter term, President pro tern. During that period 
 Governoor Booth was elected United States Senator, 
 and was sueceedded by Lieutenant Governor Pacheco, 
 while William Irwin became Lieutenant Governor by 
 virtue of his position as President pro tern of the Senate. 
 
 In 1875 Mr. Irwin was elected Governor of the State, 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
EX GOVERNOR IRWIN. 
 
HUNTING FOR GOLD 
 
 ;m)7 
 
 and ill 1883, while Stoiieinan was Governor, he was ap- 
 pointed to a seat on tlie State Harhor C(MMinission, 
 servin«4 tlie four-year term. While holdinir this office he 
 became sick, and expired on March loth, 1880, at Hotel 
 Bella Vista, thus endinj^ a useful career and leavinjjf a 
 spotless reputation, and the memory of one who always 
 did his duty conscienciously and fearlessly. 
 
 Durini^ Governor Irwin's incundjency, the act to take 
 the po[)ular vote on the Chinese question, was passed, 
 being approved by him 8eptend)er 21st, 1877. At the 
 general election in Septend)er 187*J, the result showed 
 for Chinese immigration 8.S3 votes, and against it 154,- 
 638. This was probably the most important measure 
 enacted during his term of office, and was, so to speak, 
 the first ster) towards the realization of the now famous 
 Geary Exclusion Act. 
 
I 
 
 
 •I 
 
 i 
 
 WA 
 
COTS-TENTB. 
 
 CALIFe^IiXIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Introductory Remark.s-At Home in Scotlaud-First Voyage 
 "--A Sailor on the Lakes-Lumber trade in Buffalo-The 
 Cxold Fever-Round the Horn-Sun Francisco— Expen- 
 sive Dinners-The CUoriou. Fourth-Generous Gamblers 
 — J^un With the Immi^n-antK. 
 
 CHAPTKll II. 
 
 On Board the Milwaukee-Xo Clearance Papers-Going Up 
 the River— Sacramento— Teamsters Talk— Off For The 
 Yuba— First Experience— War Upon Foreigners— A Si- 
 lent Friend- Store Keeping— Lumpy Gold-Re&tless- 
 Foster's Bar-Sick Men With Great Appetites-In Search 
 Of a Partner. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Off for the Mines Again— The Earlv Discovery of Gold-1 
 Free Mason of 1820-An Interesting Document in San 
 Francisco-Did the Priests Hold the Secret?-Captain 
 VV. H. Thomas' Account— Under the Wild Onions— "Cut 
 Eye" Foster-A Sickly Man from Massachusetts-Jim 
 Crow IS Introduced-Over the Range-Facing the Wilds. 27 
 
 CHAPTER ly. 
 
 Through the Woods-Meeting Two Grizzlies-Across the 
 River in a Hurry-McNair's Island-The Color of Gold- 
 Ov. the Ridge-We- strike the Rivei—A Noise in the 
 
 899 
 
 15 
 
400 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 Bushes — Roiiiul the Point — A Scene that (Charmed Us — 
 The Forks at Last — Sullen Miners — Moving Cami^ — Mules 
 on the Hillside — Camped on the Yuba — Reminiscences of 
 Philo Haven. 37 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Down to Business — A Fish Story — Lead Weights and Brass 
 Weights — Cre vicing — Breyfogle Flat — A Mule in a Hor- 
 nets' Nest — Mamoo the Egyptian — A Negro from Virginia 
 — Rich Finds — Treacherous Friends — Mr. John Potter — 
 Flour Worth More Than Gold— A Very Sick Man— On 
 the Site of Dovvnieville. 47 
 
 ■ m 
 
 m 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Death of a Friend — Andrew Goodyear — Bone Soup — At Sim- 
 mons' Camp — Cooking Under Arms — Four Dead Mules 
 —"Cut-Eye" Out of Temper— The Ax on the Ledge- 
 Back at the Forks — The First Dwelling in Downieville — 
 ('iiristmas — The Stars and Stripes in the Sierras — Mag- 
 jaificent Scenery. 57 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Life in the Cabin — The Bill of Fare — A Prospecting Fever — 
 The Dangers of Traveling — Arrival of Mrs. James Gallo- 
 way — A Poor Gin Mill — -Jack Smith and His Jokes — Up 
 a Tree After Gold — Expensive Rations — William Slater 
 — ^A Rush of Miners — Taking up Claims — The Necessity 
 for Laws. 69 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Adopting a Code — Remarkable Observations — The Oh-be-joy ■ 
 f ul — Changing a Name — A Bit of Early History — Samuel 
 Langton — A Bag of Gold — Etiquette in the Barroom — 
 Corn Meal Fixings — Reading the First Newspaper — 
 Meeting Jim Crow — Phantom Treasures. 80 
 
 ■ CHAPTER IX. 
 
 An Unfortunate Family — A Company of Sailors — After "Old 
 Downie" — Single Men and Married Men — William Slater's 
 Exit — A Note Due Over Forty Years — Law ^.nd Lawyers 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 401 
 
 — "Uncle Jimmie" — A Discourse About Drinkin<:jf — My 
 Claim Wa>3 Gone — The Eighth Couimaudiuent. 93 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 A Spree For a Tip- Our Social Conditions— The Glorious 
 Fourth— A Dinner at Galloway's — A Fight for Blood — 
 A Speedy Trial — Thirty-nine Lashes — Big Logan — A 
 Singular Suicide — Prospecting With Kanakas — A Rough 
 Journey — Verdant Pastures. 105 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Another Winter in the Mountains— Captain Thomas R. Stod- 
 dard— Two Well-known Millionairs — Fifteen-Hundred 
 Dollars a Day — Gold on the Wagon Tires — Sleeping on 
 a Fortune — Fluming a River — Poorman's Creek — Back 
 to Downieville— Ten Bits to the Pan— Rantedodler Bar 
 
 — Sunday Reminiscences. 119 
 
 » 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 A Severe Winter — Alexander McDonald — Close to a Fortune 
 — A Lawsuit — Organizing a Mining District — Sluicing 
 and Tunneling— The Summer of '58 — Reports From the 
 Eraser — A Wind-up — Now and Then — Quoting a Forty- 
 niner. 133 
 
 YUEA SKKTCHKS. 
 
 LYNCHING A BEAUTY, 
 THE BLOODY CODE, 
 RIVALRY AND DEATH, 
 A FORTY-NINER'S YARNS, 
 FROM OBSCURITY TO FAME, 
 A SLAP JACK FIEND, 
 YUBA POETS AND POETRY. 
 
 145 
 154 
 166 
 172 
 180 
 187 
 190 
 
402 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Arrival at Victoria — Sharp Practice — Indians Bring the First 
 Gold — The Hudson Bay Company — An Energetic Gover- 
 nor — A Route to the Mines — Joining an Expedition — 
 Natives Surprised — The Dame and the Bullets — Adven- 
 tures on a Stream — Lilooet Lake — A Favorable Report — 
 An Attempt That Failed. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Queen Charlotte Island — Gold Harbor — Scotch Guy — The 
 Majesty of Nature — Captain Gold — Potlatch — Political 
 Campaigns — Totems — Architecture and Art — An Inter- 
 esting People — Vanity of Savagedom — Curious CuStoms 
 — The Death Dance — Mvth and Legend. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 11)9 
 
 210 
 
 Fort Simpson — On the River Skeena — "Pioneer H. B. C." — 
 A Tempting Offer — Locatin A Pass — What A Gold Band 
 Did— Red Paint — Bon Jour — Frank's Curly Hair — Chief 
 Sal-tow-tow — White Men in the Wilderness — Days of 
 Privation — A Poor Craft — Head Factor, Peter Ogdeu — 
 A California Monte Bank in Victoria. 222 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Surveying the Inlets — Looking for a Wagon Road to the 
 Eraser — Jarvis Inlet — An Awful Ravine — Desolation 
 Sound — All by Myself — The Bears Came Rushing Down 
 — The Kle-na-Klene River — Bella Coola — Dean Canal — 
 A Land Boom — False Rejiorts — Mr. Tovalloit Prevari- 
 cates — Spearing Salmon — Indians From Fort Eraser — 
 After Gold on the Naas. 235 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 My Partners — Visiting Friends — The Village of Tsawatti — 
 Villainous Indians — Anxious Moments — Friends in Need 
 Bute Inlet — On the Homathco — Auxiliary Rivers — Won- 
 
CONTEfJTS 
 
 403 
 
 derful Scenery — Glaciers Ahead — A Sick Indian — Great 
 Hardships- Tlie Tequahan and the Moniria- Poor Luck 
 — What a Newspaiiei Said. 248 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Unscrupulous Speculators — The Pre-emption Law — The Peo- 
 ple of Westminster — Two Explorers — False Reports — 
 A Rowdy Audience — Cariboo Mining — Trying to Pump 
 Gold — The Money Ran Out — Waddington's Enterprise 
 — A Camp at Bute Inlet — Treacherous Indians — ANiglit 
 Of Horrors— The Avenger— The Killing of a Dear Friend. 2G8 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The Gold Export Tax — Captain Evans and His Son — In the 
 Editor's Room — The Russo-Americau Telegraph — Two 
 Different Routes— How To Go To Work— Once More 
 at Dean Canal — Some Beautiful Land — Predicting A. 
 Bright Future— ^on. John Robsou— The Famous Granite 
 Creek — Lumps of Gold — Advice to Disheartened Miners 
 — Comparing Past and Present. 27;! 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Indians — The Value of Natives — Medicine Men and Supersti- 
 tion — An Incident at Yuclatan Village — Heart Disease 
 and no Bullet— Memoir From the Naas River — Singular 
 Customs— The Price of Flour— The White Man and the 
 Red Man — How They Died— Scarlet Fever — Indian Me- 
 chanics — A Promising Country. 288 
 
 PANAMA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Taking A Rest — A New Friend— Queer Conversation— How 
 Van Sickles Dug Gold— My Greatest Chance- Panama 
 the Place— Departure— A Qurious Old City— Difficult 
 Mountain Trails — Down With Fever— An Indian Grave- 
 yard-Digging For Gold— Pottery Qalore— A Curious 
 Whistle — My Collection Spoiled— Moving to Other Parts. 
 
 803 
 
404 
 
 CONTKNTS 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The Chirifjue — Auotber Graveyard — ^lore Pottery — David 
 City -The Slmber Brothers — A Native Ho^' — Singular 
 Tombs — Above theCh)udK — Abaudoninfj; (irave Dij^oiucr 
 — Lookinj'' For Copjjer — A Perfect Hoodoo — Farewell 
 Pauaina — Bric-a-brac. 
 
 914 
 
 !l !lfl 
 
 A TRIP TO ALASKA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Off for Alaska — Review of the History of the Country — 
 Russian, American and English Influences — The Tolstois 
 and the Astors — A Wonderful Region — First Impression 
 of Scenery — Quoting Kate Field — Moiuitains and Gla- 
 ciers — Lieutenant Schwatska's Surveys — A Phantom 
 City. " 82!) 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Mining Matters — On the Stikine River — San Francisco Spec- 
 ulators in the Field — Large Mining Machinery — Fish Oil 
 and Gold Dust — The Yukon Diggings — Comparison 
 Between Past and Present — Interesting Indians — Artistic 
 Carvings — Innocentius Veuiamiuofif — The End. 340 
 
 TPIK NATIVE SONS. 
 
 CHIPS OF THE OLD BLOCK. 
 
 The Author's Address — Pioneers and Native Sons — Two 
 National Holidays — An Organization Established — A 
 Moth-eaten Bear — General Winn's Efforts — A Young 
 President — Telling Speeches — A Birthday Party — Grand 
 Secretary and Free Mason — A Relic Saved — Men of 
 Action. 
 
 355 
 
CONTKN'rS 
 
 405 
 
 SOMK OF MY OLD P^RIEXDS. 
 
 D. T. (X)LE. 
 
 EX-GO VEENOR GEORGE C. PERKINS. 
 
 JAMES W. ORNDORFF. 
 
 LIEUT. GOVERNOR DUDNEY. 
 
 ROBERT DUNSMUIR. 
 
 EX-GOVERNOR IRWIN. 
 
 ;}8() 
 
 383 
 38G 
 389 
 392 
 
 395 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 FRONTISPIECE 
 
 I.MMIGRANT TRAIN NEARING THE SACRAMENTO 18 
 
 SACRAMENTO IN FORTY-NINE 20 
 
 C!APTAIN JOHN A. SUTTER, 22 
 
 SUTTER'S :\IILL, COLOMA, CAL., 28 
 CARMEL MISSION. NEAR MONTEREi^ CAL., ' 31 
 
 LOOKING FOR THE COLOR, 88 
 
 WORKING THE ROCKER. 44 
 
 VIEW IN SACRAMENTO IN THE FIFTIES, 53 
 
 A LONELY MOUNTAINEER, GO 
 
 DONNER LAKE, SUMMIT OF THE SIERRAS, G7 
 
 VIEW OF LAKE TAHOE, 73 
 
 THE OLD CABIN AT DOWNIEVILLE, 86 
 
 OFF TO THE DIGGINGS, 9^ 
 
 AFTER OLD DOWNIE, Qfi 
 
 VARIOUS METHODS OF MINING, 102 
 
 VIEW OF THE SIERRA BUTTES, 108 
 
 CATCHING BREAKFAST ON THE YUBA, 114 
 
 THE DESERTED CABINS, 121 
 
400 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 VIEW OF GOLD LAKE, 129 
 
 GROUND SLUICING IN THE EARLY DAYS, 185 
 
 DOWNII]VILLE IN THE EARLY FIFTIES, 189 
 
 DOWNIEVILLE OF TO-DAY, . 144 
 HANGING OF JU ANITA, . ir,l 
 
 COMING OVER THE MOUNTAINS, 15(5 
 
 DUEL BETWEEN LIPPENCOTT AND TEVIS, 102 
 
 PHILO A. HAVEN, 100 
 
 DEATH OF MOFFATT, 177 
 
 LOUISE H. MACK AY, 183 
 
 VICTORIA BEFORE THE BOOM, 19S 
 
 SIR JAMES DOU(iLASS, K. C. B., 205 
 
 HYDAH INDIAN CHIEFS, 215 
 
 MASSET, QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLAND, 229 
 
 A GROUP OF NAAS INDIANS, . 239 
 
 NANAIMO, 255 
 
 BARNARD GLACIERS, ON THE SKEENA RIVER, 209 
 
 KOSKEEMO INDIAN CHIEFS, 281 
 
 FORT SIMPSON, 291 
 
 RELIC FROM AN INC A GRAVE, . 312 
 
 DANCING THE FANDANGO, 321 
 
 AMONGST THE ICEBERGS IN GLACIER BAY, 328 
 
 WRANGEL ISLAND, ALASKA, 341 
 GLACIER BAY, SHOWING SECTION OF MUIR GLACIER, 349 
 
 WILLIAM R. HEARST, 354 
 
 HON. STEPHEN M. AVHITE, 357 
 
 HON. GEORGE C. PARDEE, . 357 
 
 HON. LEVI R. ELLERT, 357 
 
 HON. THOMAS FLINT JR., 357 
 
 ROBERT WIELAND, ■' . 357 
 
♦ 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 HON. R. F. DEL VALLE, 
 FREDERICK C. CLIFT, 
 HENRY LUNSTEDT, 
 JOHN A. STEINBACH, 
 HON. C. H. GAROUTTE, 
 R. M. FITZGERALD, 
 DR. C. W. DECKER, 
 COL. C. F. CROCKER, 
 JOHN T. GREANEY, 
 HON. FRANK L. COPIES, 
 H. CLAY CHIPMAN, 
 FRANK D. RYAN, 
 M. A. DORN, 
 FRANK J. HIGGINS, 
 JOHN H. GRADY, 
 JO D. SPROUL, 
 D. T. COLE. 
 
 EX-GOVERNOR GEORGE C. PERKINS. 
 JAMES AV. ORNDORFF. 
 LIEUT. GOVERNOR DUDNEY. 
 ROBERT DUNSMUIR. 
 EX-GOVERNOR IRWIN. 
 
 407 
 
 a57 
 
 357 
 
 8G3 
 
 363 
 
 303 
 
 363 
 
 363 
 
 363 
 
 363 
 
 369 
 
 869 
 
 869 
 
 369 
 
 369 
 
 369 
 
 369 
 
 381 
 
 384 
 
 387 
 
 390 
 
 393 
 
 396