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CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
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Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

1980

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T
t<

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Forest, StrcaiTii^S[tBl^ashore

33G9 y V'^^

T is the Jiiikl staleiiifnt
of a fact to say tlial
the Intercolonial
Railwaj- of Canada
anil its connections
traverse a j^reater
variety of tourist
country than does
any railway systcni
. in the world. There
are other lines
which jj;ive access
to ijlorious summer
lands and to places which it has been and
will be the ambition of thousands to see.
There are lines which lead to localities
where history has been made and the
map of a contintut chan}.jed. There are a
few which include some of the world's
jrreat wonders. Others, ajj;ain, penetrate
famous lumliuff j^'roumls, or carry one to
noted fishinj^ resorts. Hy other routes are
reached the sea-bathinjj; shores and yacht-
in,!.; havens. Then there are lines which
have tile fashionable summer resorts for
their attraction, and some which hold out
the ])romise of a country where there is
absolute rest and quiel. I'Aery im])orl-
aut railway relies on some one or more
of the.se features to attract tourist travel,
tnit no ordinary road professes to have
them all. Railways, like individuals,
have their limitations, and as a universal
f^enius israre anu)n)^ men, so it is hard to
find !i tourist route which can cater suc-
cessfully to the wants of all .sorts and
conditions of health and jileasure seekers.
Now and then, it is true, there is found
a man who can do many thiuf^s inconsist-
ent with each other and do them all well.
So there nuiy be a railway sy.stem em-
bracing ill its territory .such an infinite
variety of attractions that the require-
ments of every class of pleasure seekers

may l)e met. Such a sy.stem is that of the
Intc-^olonial Railway. Its 1600 miles of
track traverse the richest and most varied
,,)urist grounds of this ctnitinent, and
there is nothing to e(|ual those grounds
on any oilier continent. The world may
be searched in vain for a stretch of terri-
tory containing within the .same area
such a diversity of features to attract all
classes of summer visitors. The Inter-
colonial and the Prince Eilward Island
lines constitute "The reo])le's Railway"
ill more than a limited or even national
.sense. At the western terminus of these
lines is the mi tropolis of Canada, the
great and ever growing city of Montreal.
To the eastward of this, down to the
shores of the open Atlantic and through
I'riuce Edward Island, is a wonderful
summer country. So vast is this tourist
territory and so many anil diverse are its
features, that no one can hojie to enjoy
them all in the course of a single season.
There must be a choice of good things,
and this choice is a wide one. The man
who wants the luxury of inoderii hotels
while sojourning in historic cities need
limit his ])leasures only by the length of
his purse. Kcpially great is the oppor-
tunity of him whose means are small and
with whom economy is an object. All
classes may adapt their excursions to their
circumstances, and in no country of the
world may so much enjoyment be had for
so small an outlay of money. As com-
pared with the hackneyed tourist resorts
of other lands, the cost of living is so
snuill as to excite the wonder of tho.se
who have had the experience of extended
travel.

There is so much to be had at such
trifling expense that the (|uestiou of cost
is less of a consideration than that of how
to best improve the o])portunities in the

limited period of a suiiiiiu-r ouliiiff. This
depends on what is soiif^ht. l-'or the
sjx)rlsnian there are unrivalled ft)rosts and
streams, lakes and shores, l-'or hundreds
of miles the eye of the artist may revel in
the si^ht of the {grandest of scenery upon
the mountains, in the vallevs and l)y the
sea. The student may tread where some
of the jjreat paj^es of history have been
written in blood. The lover of the (|uaint
and curious may search out places and
people which are in the nineteenth cen-
tury but are not of it, while all who seek
rest, recreation and health, may fnid it in
a land and a climate without a rival.

On the map of Canada may be traced a
line which reaches from Montreal, the
commercial capital, to the city of Quebec,
the ancient capital. Thence it stretches
along the I<ower St. Lawrence and on
throuf^h the picturesque Metapedia Val-
ley. Heyond this it skirts the shore of
the famed Bale de Chaleur and goes on
through New Brunswick and Nova ticotia
to the historic city of Halifax. Arms
reach out here and there, having an
aggregate length equal to that of the
main line, and extending to the most
important points in the Ma •ilinie Provin-
ces. These lead to the city of St. John and
the Hay of I-'undy and to the Sydneys, in
thatsunnner j)aradise, Cajie Breton. Still
another branch tr; '.-rses Trince I'^lward
Island, the Garden of the (iidf. This is
The Intercolonial Railway System. Begun
as a national highway and from a ctun-
mercial point of view, the wonderful
opportunities the country offered the
health and pleasure seeker were scarcely
dreamed of in the early days of its
history, and are even now but in part
understood bj- the increasing numbers
who yearly seek rest and recreation in
this glorious summer land.

The word "numbers," in this connec-
tion, is not a noun of multitude which
implies a crowd and a crush. In the great
area of territory covered by these rail-
ways there are so many attractive jilares
that there is no overcrowding at one jjoint
more than at another, and the lover of
quiet can always find his peaceful haven.

If he so desire, he can enjoy the solitude
of nature "fiir from the madding crowd"
and yet have all the ])rivileges of the
daily mails and the telegrajih. Whatever
be the taste of the tourist, he can be
suited ; and in no j)art of the world can
so much be had for so small an outlay.

To the worlil-weary tourist, who has
l)een used to the confusion of the conven-
tional sunnner resort, there may come a
vision of this country, — a countrj- which
lies by the sea and is fanned by cooling
breezes from the ocean. In this land are
green hills, shady groves and fertile
valleys. From the distant mountains the
crystal brooks come leaping with the
music of gladness, and join with noble
rivers in whose clear waters dwell lordly
salmon and scarce less lordly trout. Near
at hand are forests, as yet so little dis-
turbed that the moose, caribou and bear,
now and again visit the farmyards of the
adjacent settlements, and gaze in bewil-
dered surpri.se at the man whose hand is
rai.sed to slay them. Along the shore,
for hundreds of miles, lie land-locked
harl)ors, where even the frail bark canoe
may float in safety, yet be upon the waters
of the ocean, and upon the smooth san<l
beaches of which a child may venture
into the buoyant salt water and fear not.
In this coimtry is .scenery at limes of
sweet pastoral simplicity ; at times of sub-
lime grandeur. It is a land where civiliza-
tii>n has made its way, and yet nf)t marred
the beauty of nature. It is a country
where the traveller will find much that is
novel, much that will charm, and nmch
that will ever remain to him as a sweet
remembrance of a pleasant clime.

The Growth of a Great Railway

In the year 1857 the total mileage of all
the railways in British North America
was about 200 miles less than that of the
Intercolonial alone to-day. Canada itself
then included only v/hat are now the
p;ovinces of Ontario and Quebec; for
New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince
Edward Island, were separate colonies,
each of which had its own government,

;e of all

after the manner of the island of New-
foundland at the piescnt time. There
was no ])()litical or commercial union,
while the vast country to the west was
undevclojied and hut little known.

Kach of what were later the four
orij^inal ])rovinces of the Dominion,
Canada West, Canada East, New Bruns-
wick and Nova Scotia, had undertaken to
solve the problem of railway facilities for
il.self. As early as 1.S36, a few years after
the opening of the first line in England,
a pas.senger railway fifteen miles long was
in ojjeration in what is now the province
of Quebec, and a few years later New
Brunswick and Nova Scotia started rail-
way enterprises which, under the circum-
stances, were wonderful instances of pluck
and ambition. In New Brunswick, in-
deed, even prior to the date mentioned,
some daring residents had organized a
company to build a line from the Bay of
Fundy, at St. And: :;ws, through the woods
to the city of Quebec. Later they began
this great undertaking, but never saw it
completed.

l-'or many years the railway question
was the topic of paramount importance
in the Maritime Provinces. The problem
to be .solved was the construction of a line
from Halifax to Quebec. Each province
was ill earnest, but without substantial
aid the task was beyond its resources.
Each, however, built according to its
ability. The way to better things was
made clear when, in 1867, the provinces
were united and the construction of the
Intercolonial Railway became one of the
terms of Confederation.

The story of the various epochs in the
history of this great highway cannot be
told here. In 1876 the last gap was closed
and Halifax and Quebec were united.
The vision of Lord Durham in 1839 be-
came a reality. The first organized effort
to build an inter-provincial railway had
ended in fulfilment. It seemed that the
goal was reached. It was not.

In these days, when the resources and
possibilities of this great country are bet-
ter understood than they were by the
people of a generation ago, projects which

then seemed vast are now .seen to be lim-
ited and incomplete. For more than a
score of years preno.is to Confederation
the great iinbition of the i)eople was for
a railway to connect Halifax and Quebec.
Such a line appeared sufficient for all
practical purposes, and under the con-
ditions of those times it was so. There
was then no (ireat West as we know it
now, and there was no railway to the
Pacific coast throwing open the gates to
the lands beyond the seas. The condi-
tions of commerce were different from
those of to-day. Even in the last twenty
years there have been radical changes in
the requirements of places and of people.
There have been still more radical
changes in the methods of doing bu.siness,
and in the nature of business itself.
There has been a constant and rapid com"
mercial growth. The railway facilities
that would have been more than sufficient
for our fathers are wholly insufficient for
us. Quebec was their goal, and a grand
one in their day, but time has changed
the conditions. For years it has been
recognized that the railway operated by
the government in the interests of the
people should follow the current of busi-
ness and reach the great centre of trade.

A few hours to the westward of Quebec
is the city of Montreal, the commercial
capital of Canada, .\lways an important
centre, its importance has vastly increased
with the wonderful development of the
country to the westward. It is now the
great emporium of the Dominion, the
trade centre in touch with the Atlantic
and the Pacific and with all parts of the
territory that lies between Halifax and
Vancouver. The necessity that the In-
tercolonial Railway should extend to
Montreal has been as urgent of recent
years as was the need of such a railway to
Quebec a generation ago.

The extension of the line from Quebec
to Montreal has marked a new era in the
historj- of the Intercolonial and of the
country. The earlier part of the year
1897 found a fast passenger service in op-
eration between the metropolis and the
cities by the sea in the Maritime Pro-

vinces, and the people's line was serving;
the people more fully than at any period
in its history. With one of the best huill
roads on the continent, with a ra])id
thronj^h service hy trains e(|nip])ed with
all that can make modern travel a luxury,
the Intercolonial is alike the route for
l)usiness and for pleasure. That it is the
great tourist route will he realized lo .some
extent by those who read these pa>{es, hut
they can only understand it fully hy see-
ing for themselves. In dealing with so

long a route there are limits to which de-
scription must he confined, and there are
places u]>on jilaces to which no mere de-
scri])tion can do even partial justice.

Whiiv the Intercolonial may he reached
hy various connections at different points
along the line, it may he well in this in-
stance to assume that the journey is
begun at the western terminus and con-
tinued to the distant ])oints of the ])ro-
vinces hy the sea. Let Montreal be the
starting point.

MOXTREAf. FROM MOIWT ROVAr.

liileiiiilotiml Route

Montreal, the Metropolis

O a])])!)' the
term " uiag-
iiificeiit " to
til is },'reat
city of Can-
ada is not a
misuse of
lanKuaKe.
I'rom even-
point of view
— i II situa-
tion, environment and commercial
importance, it is iidmirahlo in its details
and niaf^nilicent as a whole. The lar>;est
city in Canada, it stands above all others
in the extent and viiriety of its com-
mercial relations with other ])arts of
the Dominion. At the head of ocean
navijjation on the j{reate.st of Canada's
rivers, Montreal is the fjreat market jilace,
the ever busy commercial e.'cchanfie of the
country hclwecn ocean and ocean. Here
the railways centre from all jioints of the
east, the west and the south. Hither
come the steamships from across the seas
and the sailing craft from places near
and far. From this centre are distrihuted
the products of many lands and from it
are sent out to all the country the fruits
of its own many and mighty industries.
It is not a citj- of one race hut of several,
and in each the hest national characteris-
tics are shown to the fullest advantage in
the social and ccmimercial relations of
one with the other. It is a city of
great enterprises where mighty results
are achieved, with a record for stability
second to that of no city in America, and
it is rapidly advancing year by year in its
progress to a still greater future.

As theagesof citiesare reckoned in this
new world, Montreal is ancient indeed.
The story of its settlement goes back so
far that it is lost in the mists of anticjuity.
It was a city beyond the time of which
the traditions are preserved, and it may
have flourished as one when the Hascpie
fishermen began to sail to the shores of
the continent they did not explore.
Centuries later, wlien Columbus, Cabot
and Corte/. astonished the world by their
discoveries there was still this jjatriarch
of citiesin the north, of which they knew
nothing. It remained miknown until the
year IS.'^S, when Jaccpies Cartier found it
an ancient walled city of the Indians,
with a future which even the ardent
imagination of the discoverer would have
failed to picture.

Three quarters of a century after Cartier
came that great and singularly good man,
Samuel de Cham]>lain, to found a city in
the name of his king and under the flag
of his country, but more that thirty
years jiassed before the building of that
city began with the mission of Ville
Marie de Montreal. Two centuries and
a half have gone by, and now u])on the
site of ancient Hochelaga stands the fair
and flourishing metrojjolis of Uritain's
possessions in America.

Not without struggle and strife ha.-,
been a jxjrtion of that period. In the
contest for supremacy between England
and I'rance in the New World, the story
of Montreal standsout boldly on the pages
of history. The spots made memorable
in that struggle are found on every hand.
The student of history may tread where
great men and their followers have trod,

niid may sland where were wiliiessed
some of the hri^htesl and (hirkesl scenes
in tile evohition ul" a nation's destiny.
Since ij^ki the llajj of Ivnyland has waved
undistnrhed over the city, and the once
ri /111 races contend to-day only for
suj)reinacy in the arts of peace.

To tlescrihe Montreal is a work for a
volume hy itself. In the limits of a rail-
way ),ande hook nothinjf like an attem])t
at descri])tion is jjossihle. Whatever the
siihject he — the vast trade and commerce,

of a ]>o]>nlation. Durin^^ the last year
for wliich returns are availahle, vC"'"l9
to the value of over J,S3,oc:o,()Oo were im-
l)orled, while the exports in the same
])erioil were nearly #63, 000,000. 'I'hoUKh
the distance of Montreal from the sea is as
K'reat as the total lennlh of (ireat hritain,
it is yet a husy port with an annual
arrival of hetween Soo and 900 sea-Koin^
vessels, re])resentinj.; more than a million
and a half of tonna^^j, in addition to
7,t)o() inlaml ves.sels. Nearly fifty million

nOMfA'/OX SQCAKF.

the people, the churches, the institutions
or the heauties of the city and its environs
—no one of these can he adequately
dealt with in the compass of a few pages,
nor is there an opportunity for even a
comprehensive summary of all that merits
attention.

Briefly stated, Montreal is the largest
city of Canada and of an importance
commensurate with its size. With its
suburhs, which are in reality a part of the
metropolis, it has now about 3,^0,000

hilercolonial Route

bushels of grain, flour and meal are re-
ceived from the West and shipped an-
nually, while on an average over 100,000
head of cattle and vast numbers of
sheep are sent to ports in Europe during
eacli season of navigation. The money
turned over in the cattle trade alone may
r)e roughly approximated at from eight to
ten millions of dollars annually. The
value of animals and their products
shipped in a year is over $25,000,000, while
that of the agricultural products amounts

iii^i

Oltffi

ue re-
iped an-

100,000
ibers of

(luring

money
ine may
eight to
y. The
)ro(lucts
X), while

mounts

tnalMml twi'iity-thic-o niillioii dollais. ho
it is, jmiportioiiati-ly, with olher hranchfs
of track'.

Thi'se are some of the figiiri-s shown by
the custom liouse entries, hut they give
no iilea of the eiic^rnious and increasing
trade of Montreal with all parts of Canada.
The amount of the business done in dry
goods, clothing, boots and shoes, grocer-
ies and the like, can be- but jiartly realiz-
ed !)'• the fad that in city and village
alike over
the length
and breadth
of the Donr
inion, wher-
everbusiness
of any kind
is carried on,
the re]>re-
sentatives of
the great
commercial
houses of the
metropolis
will be found
p u s h i n g
their trade.
There is no
sell lenient so
remote that
M on tre a 1
goods have
not found
their way to
its ])eoi)le.

The city
tells at a
glance the
story of its

connuercial greatness. Four miles long
by two nules wide, there are no sleepj-
thoroughfares in the whole of this area.
There are quiet streets in the select resi.
<lential sections, where the homes of the
more prosperous citizens are found, but
these in their very nature are the evidence
of a progressive people who by their
energy and enterprise have made life
worth living for its social pleasures. In
the business districts, however, the rush
and bustle of a metropolis are seen and

/.Vr/./A7; A! A II. WA Y

heard from early morn till evening late.
There are miles of busy streets with block
after block of massive buildings, I'ach of
which is a veritable hive of iimustry. 'I'he
great business houses are recogni/.eil as
great thrniighoul the continent, for with
all the euti'ri)rise char.acteristic of the
west, they have the practical mellnxl
which distinguishes the east. The busi-
ness growth of Montreal has been a solid
and sure one, based on legitimate founda-
tions. It has
been (hie to
no specu-
lative era,
no sudden
boom. Theic
has been no
inflation, and
hence no de-
]) re ss i o n .
Sound prin-
ciples have
always ])re-
vailed, and
as a conse-
(juence capi-
tal from a-
broad has
sought in-
vest m e n t
here. The
great wealth
of the coni-
iiiercial com-
iiuiiiity has
thus enabled
the city to
increase its
trade, even
when the general conditions elsewhere
have been adverse. Thus, in some years,
while the business of Canada as a whole
has been below the expectation, the
trade of Montreal has shown a notable
expansion. In the nature of things it
must continue to expand, however the
world may wag.

Montreal is therefore a great city, com-
mercially and in other ways. There is
greatness, too, in mau\- of the objects of
interest. The church of Xotre Dame,

Inlenohinial Koule

wliioli will Imld 15,1x10 |)e()])!e, is tin-
lur^;osl on tin- onUim-nt tiortli of tlu- city
of Mi'xii'o, "vliilu its iiwul ln-ll is tlie
larjjusl in Aiiierica (ind one of Hit- largest
in tlu- world. Monlrt-al Colk'j.;f is
l)i'licve(l to ho the most I'xU-nsivi' series
of c()nnect"d hniMinns i" Canad;i or the
I'liited States, while MiCiill Collej,{e ranks
with the j^'reat I'nivert-ities heyoiic' the
ceas. Here, too, is the Hank of Mont-
real, the j^reitest fnianeial institution in
America, and thii Seminary of St. Snlpice,
the most wealthy eilncational estahlish-
ineiit on the continent. Then, nmun^ a
choice of j^ood liotels, is the Windsor,
with its stalely edifice in which a rej^'i-

of all i-recds, would of themselves demand
l)a>,'es, and after all hill an im|>erfecl idea
would he conveyed of wh.il there was to
see in connection with them. In like
manner nothing can lie said of the jiuhlic
building's, the reliv;ions and lienevidenl
institutions, the harlxir and the i)uhlie
works, inclndinjj the I.achine Canal
Least of all, can any idea he j.;iven of the
heauly of the residential secti<jns, the
magnificent jiarks or the suhurhs with
their ])ictnres(iue scenery ami historic
associations. Much nii).{ht he said of
Mount Royal, of itself, with its walks, its
drives and its paiumitmi of glorious views
of the surrounding country. All these

iicroniA jrii/i.ij: jiki/h;/:. mo.\'tki:,\i.

Intercoloii iai h'ou /<•

nient could be lodged, and with a s])aei()us
uuiin corri.'.or and dining hall which
are the a(hniration of visitors from all
quarters of the world. Much more is to
be seen wliich •nrtakes of greatness
in the details Iha. 'o to make up the
harmonious whole ii. Canada's great city.
These details are so numerous that it
woulil be in vain to attempt to mention a
tithe of them here. The notable churches,

things, and inauy more, must be seen by
tho.se who wouUl get an idea of Montreal
and its attractions. The metropolis would
have glory enough for any one city if it
had nothing to boast of beyond its com-
mercial sui)reniacy but from a purel.v
tourist point of view it is a place which
every traveller in Canada must visit. In
this respect, and in others, it can speak
for itself better than its storv can be told.

1/ A'oiiti'

seen by
Montreal
lis would
■ily if it
its cotn-
jnirely
wliich
isil. In
m speak

l)e told.

Montreal to Quebec

"y\ WV. journey between Mont-
real and (jueliec is now so
'■^ easily made us to be a pleasure.
There was a time when it was
otherwise, and many who are liv-
ing i.<ii. ""member when the most
rajiiil mode of conimuiiiealion was
by water. In that respect, how-
ever, Canadian enterprise was early
to the front. The pioneer steamboat
of the world was ])ut on the Hudson
in 1S07, and in 1809 a steamer for the
route to yuebec was ])Ut on the St.
Lawrence by John Molson, a eiti/.eii of
Montreal. The ])eople of half a century
later had the Luxury of a railway, but
there are evolutions in railw.iys as in
tilher thinj^s, and it remained for the
yeai 1S97 to see aline suited to the more
pressin>{ re(|uirements of the present a>;e.
The route taken by t' Intercolonial
Railway is the most y and direct

method of comniunicati 11 between the
two cities. From the Honavent'ire depot
in Montreal to the station at Levis, op-
])osile yuebec, is 163 miles, or ten miles
less than the shortest route before the new
line was opened. Topoj!;raphicallj', it is
as near an air line as the jihysical ..au-
ditions of the country will permit, as may
be judged fronj the fact that in the 1 15
miles, comiKJsing wlnt was once known
as the Drummond County Railway, there
are 106 miles of tangents, .^s to grades,
there are none in excess of 52 feet to the
mile, and most of them are verj' much
below that. On this jjortion of the Inter-
colonial, as on others, as fast time can be
made as on any road in America.

In going out of Montreal a portion of
the Lachine Canal is seen. This canal,
begun i'l 1821 when such enterprises were
in their infancy, is eight and one-half
miles long and is interesting from the
fact that it is one of the early improve-
ments in what is now the largest and
most important system of inland naviga-
tion in the world. By this system, which

extend.s from the .Straits of Helle Isle to
Port .\rthur at the head of I.ake Su])eri()r
ami thence to Diduth, Wisconsin, a clear
waterway is found l)elween Liverpool,
Kugland, and the Western States, a dis-
tance of 4,618 miles. More than half of
this distance is included in the inland
navigation. The St. Lawrence system
alone reaches through the country for
2,260 miles and includes about 72 miles of
canals. The Lachine canal extends from
Montreal to the low 11 of Lachine, over-
coming the Lachine Rapids, the first en-
countered in the ascent of the River St.
Lawrence

Leaving ISIoutreal on a train of the In-
tercolonial, the Jubilee Hridge, ojieued in
1897, gives passage over the St Lawrence.
This splendid structure was built to take
llu* place of the famous Victoria tubular
bridge, around anil outside of which it
was constructed on the same piers, so
that railway traffic was not interrupted.
The work was under the direction of
Jose])h Ilobson, chief engineer of the
(irand Trunk Railway, ;md the new-
bridge is as great an examjile of mode.n
engineering as was the former oM< an
instance of ;ie skill of enginecjrs of a
former ger ition. The old bridge, de-
signed by Robert Stevenson, was a tubu-
lar structure of iron, having a width of 16
feet and a single railway track. It had a
weight of more than 9,cxx) tons and cost
nearly seven million dollars The whole
structure, from the foundation.^ of the
piers to the rivets of the roof, was a solid
and substantial piece of work, built to
stand many times more than the greatest
possible strain from the tide, the ice, the
weather and the railway traffic. The
bridge was formally opened for use by
the Prince of Wales, during his visit to
Canada in 1S60. The present bridge is a
graceful and most substantial structure.
It has a length of 6,592 feet and consists
of ^5 spans, with 24 piers. The s])ans
have each a length of 242 feet, excejU the
central span which is ,330 feet. The
bridge has a width of 65 feet, with double
tracks, electric railway tracks and road-
wav-. The truss work has a height of 28

"«*

I I

! . I

feet. The weight of the steel structure
is 22,cxx) tons, and the cost was two
million dollars.

Following the line built hy the Grand
Trunk Railwaj-, St. Hyacintheis reached,
36 miles from Montreal. It is a flourish-
ing and beautiful place with about 8,000
inhabitants, and is the seat of a number
of important in<lustries. It has many
handsome buildings, including religious
and educational institutions, and the well
ordered streets have an abundance of
shade trees which add much to the at-
tractive appearance of the city. St.
Hyacinthe is in favor with many of the
residents of Montreal as a place of so-
journ during the summjr months.

Two miles from vSt. Hyacinthe is St.
Rosalie Junction, the point of departure
from the Grand Trunk Railway for the
Intercolonial short line to Quebec. In
the next 27 miles the railway jjasses the
prosperous villages of St. Edward, Ste.
Helene, St. Eugene, Duncan and St.
Germain, until Drunnnondville is reached,
65 miles from Montreal. Excellent farm-
ing land is found all along the route.

Drunnnondville, on Mi? St. Francis
river, is .1 town of 2,200 people, a large
proportion of whom are French Cana-
dians. On the river at this point is one
of the finest water powers in the jiro-
vince of Quebec. Here are situated
Lord's P'alls, with 31 feet of descent, and
a sui)stantial dam controls what is now
10,000 horse power and can be increased
as the requirements may demand. The
available manufacturing sites are admir-
ably situated for the convenience of ship-
ment by rail. The river furnislies the
town with an abundant water supply.

One of the chief industries of Drum-
mondville is a foundry and a blastfurnace,
the charcoal for which is made from
wood cut in the vicinity. From 8,000 to
lo.ocxj cords are annually usid for this
purpose. A large business is also done
in pulp wood and other de.scriptions of
lumber.

Drummondville was .settled in 1S15, by
Colonel Heriot and a body of his associ-
ates who named the place in honor of

Sir George Drummond, the hero of
Lundy's Lane. It is not, therefore, an old
settlement, as age is computed in the
province of Quebec, but it claims the
distinction of having had the first church
in the FCastern Townships. At the jiresent
time it has two churches, Anglican and
Catholic, a convent and a school for lioys.
There are attractive drives in the vicinity
of the town.

The St. Francis ri>-er is spanned at
Drummondville by a steel railway bridge
410 feet long, and by a steel highway
bridge with a length of 420 feet. The
river has two sources, and while the main
stream is called 85 miles long, the total is
a length of about 150 miles. One of these
.sources is at Lake Memphreiiiag(!g, which
extends over the boundary line into the
state of Vermont, and the other is at Lake
St. I'Vancis, in the county of Beauce.
The river empties into Lake St. Petr-r, on
the St. Lawrence, about 24 miles beiv.w
Drummondville. .All along its course is
fine fishing, but especially at the rapids
in the vicinity of the town and at the
Cascades, three miles above, as well as
the Hasin, nine miles below. The fish
which are found are black bass of three
and four pounds weight ; maskiiionge,
running all the way from eight to
eighteen pounds, and j)ickerel which
range from one to ten iwunds in weight.
These are usually caught with minnows,
either real or artificial. It is not neces-
sary to tell the angler that the St. Francis
is not a trout river, for the presence of
pickerel is evidence of that fact. When
trout and pickerel meet they carry their
argument to extremes, and the pickerel
always gets the better of it. No .self-
respecting trout will remain any length
of time in a streiim where ])ickerel are
abundant. Sturgeon are also found in
the St. Francis, and fished for with
worms.

There is, however, plenty of good trout
fishing along the line of railway east of
Drummondville, and this is especially
true of the rivers Hnis d'Pxltnond and
Duchene, which lie within three-tpiarters
of a mile of each other on the route,

■I

while another f^ood trout stream is the
River Henri, four miles further east. At
Bras d'Edmond, last season, one man
who had half an hour to spare cauj(ht 28
trout in that time, and was dissatisfied
because he had not two more, so as to
make an averaj^e of a trout a minute.
The trout were from eij^lit to sixteen
ini-hes in lenjjtli. Good fishiiif^ is also
found at other points to which reference
will be made later.

The Abenakis Springs, near the mouth
of the St. Francis river, have a wide and
increasiu)^ reputation for tlie salutary
effects of their waters. At I'ierreville, in
the same vicinity, is an Indian village,
and in this i)art of the country iire manu-
factured two-thirds of the Indian wares
produceil in the province of Quebec.

Drummondville lies between two rich
farming districts, St. (iermain on the
west and St. Cyrille on the east, but they
are only part of wiiat has long been re-
cogni.i:c'' as a rich agricultural region.
Dairy farming, in particular, is carried
on with great success, and a j)artial evi-
dence of this is found in the fact that
boxes of cheese, by the hundred thous-
and, are handled by the railway in the
course of a year.

The railway pas.ses St. Cyrille, Carinel

and Mitchell , until St. Leonard Junction

; is reached, 19 miles from Drummond-

V ville. .\ctive lumber operations are car-

^ ried on in this vicinity, and the saw mills

are a jirominent industry at Mitchell. .\t

■ St. Leonard the Nicolet river is crossed by

a steel railway bridge 720 feet in length.

I'rom St. Leonard Junction a branch of

the railway runs to Nicolet, a distance of

; 16 miles, passing the flourishing village

; of Ste. Monique midway between the two

• places.

The Xicolet river is another stream
which has two sources, and the se])arate
branches, after running a distance of
about .So miles, unite at a point a few
miles fnnn the outlet, which is at Lake
St. Peter, on the St. Lawrence. Half a
milp oi so below this junction of the
waters is the town of Nicolet, a typical
French-Canadian jjlace of about 3,500

inhabitants, among whom are but a few
l^nglish-speaking families. While this
part of the country i.s a splendid farming
region, it is alsj engaged to a consider-
able extent in the lumber industry. The
four saw mills at the town produce from
eight to ten million feet of .sawn lumber
a year. There are also four large mills
in the two miles between Nicolet and
Lake St. Peter, and no less than 35 in the
comity. In the county, too, are alxjut 30
grist mills and an equal number of cheese
and butter factories, the number increas-
ing every year.

This is a great country for dairy pro-
ducts. Some of the farmers ke -p as
many as thirty cows each, and at che
World's Fair in Chicago no less than
thirteen jirizes for cheese and butter came
to Nicolet and the adjoining count}' of
Yatua.ska. All the exhibits were above
96 per cent, and some of them were as
high as 98 per cent., which may be con-
sidered a close approach to perfection.
All this district may, indeed, be well
called a land flowing with milk and
honey. In the comities of IJagot, Drum-
mond and Arthabaska, Nicolet and
Lotbiniere alone the last census showed
about 52,o<w milch cows to a population
of less than 2i,otx3 families. The pro-
duction of home made butter amounted
to about two and a quarter million pounds,
with cheese in i)roportion. As for honey,
not including the county of Lotbiniere,
the yield was in excess of loo.oixi pounds,
while the forests yielded more than a
million and a cjuarter pounds of maple
sugar.

The town of Nicolet has much to attract
the summer visitor who seeks rest and
(juiet amid beautiful surroundings. One
attractive feature is the abundance of
shade trees of all kinds, including birch,
ma])le, oak and pine, some of which are
of ii girth rarely seen in these days of the
demolition of forests.

The history of Nicolet goes back to
1660, and the i)lace takes its name from
Jean Nicolet, the well known voyagenr
and courrier du bois. lu 1680 the settle-
ment had only five families, but it has

•5

Hi;

j^rowii steadily and ])reserved its I'rciich
characteristics down to the present (hiy.
It is one of the phices where the tourist
who wanls to have a chance to practice
conversation in the l-'rench language can
speiul a few weeks without having his
])urpose frustrated bj- people insisting on
talking in English.

Nicolet is the titular see of a bishop.
It has a fine cathedr.il and several educa-
tional and religious institutions, including
a long established acadeui)', two convents
and the schools of the Christian Brothers.
In the cathedral are a number of note-
worthy i)aintings, chiefly coi)ies of
Raphael and other masters, which are
claimed to be well nigh equal to the
originals. Some of the works, indeed,
are originals, but the authors cannot be
identified. There are ten paintings, and
for one of them it is .said thousands of
'lollars have been offered and refused.
Three especially fine ones are a copy of
the Holy Family (Raphael), Ste. Teresa
and the Crucifixion. The latter is a most
striking work and will bear careful
study.

These pictures have a historj-. A cen-
tury ago, in the fierce days of the French
revolution, when a vandal mob trampled
under foot all that savored of culture and
refinement, great havoc was wrought in
the world of art. Thej' sacked the
palaces and destroyed works which
centuries of labor would not suffice to
replace. Paintings which had been the
triumphs of world famous artists were
thiown into the streets to be rodden
under foot. Others were torn fiom the
walls and rolled up in bundles to be sold
for enough money to buy drink. A
drunken sans culotte would stand at a
street corner and auction a roll of paint-
ings as if it were ,so much old carpeting.
Some of the clergy, not without difficulty
and danger to themselves, managed to
secure a number of these rare works and
had them sent to Quebec, where Miost of
them remain to this day. Nicolet,
through some favor, was able to secure
a few of them for its parish church, and
thus it is that in this town are paintings

which were once among the glories of the
most cultured city in the world.

At Nicolet easy communication is had
by water with Three Rivers, Sorel and all
points around Lake St. Peter.

Returning to St. Leonard, and proceed-
ing east, the railway passes St. Wenceslas,
and at Aston Junction it crosses the
Arthabaska line of the Grand Trunk
railway to St. Gregoire. Thence it con-
tinues to Maddinglon Falls, Forestdale
and Moose Park, and by Laurier and
St. Apollinaire to Chaudiere Junction,
near Levis. Evidence of the lumber in-
dustry is seen in the mills at F'orestdale
and Moose Park.

At Kingsburg Junction, si.x miles
beyond Moose Park, the line is crossed
by the Lotbiniere and Megantic railway.

F'rom Forestdale until Laurier is
reached, 19 miles west of Chaudiere, the
railway runs through some 28 miles of
forest, much of it untouched by the axe
and in its primitive glory. This is a great
hunting ground, abounding with deer
and caribou. Moose are not unknown
but are less connnon. This is not a moose
country, but the possibilities of it as such
are shown in the circtunstance of a moose
having been run over and killed bj- a
train, at Aston Junction, not many months
ago. Deer, however, are very plentiful in
the Lotbiniere forests and in particular at
River Duchene. They have fretiuently
been shot by the train hands within a
short distance of the railway track, and
it has been consiilered no remarkable feat
for the workmen along the line to capture
them alive.

Partridge are found in large numbers in
these forests, and all along the line of
railway where there are woods. Woo<l-
cock are found in the clearings at a num-
ber of ])laces, and may be easily secure<l
in the innnediate vicinity of Drumniond-
ville.

The liest duck shooting is at Lake St.
Peter, especially among the islands be-
tween the mouth of the St. Francis anil
Sorel. When one is at Nicolet a sail of :i
few miles will take him to localities
where there is an abundance of this sport.

lories of tlie

1(1.

ilion is had

Sorel and all

iiul proceed-
. Wenceslas,
crosses the
rand Trnnk
hence it con-
i, Korestdale
Lanrier and
;re Jnnction,
le Inniber in-
At Forestdale

, six miles
lie is crossed
mlic railway.
I Lanrier is
handiere, the
i 28 miles of
d by the axe
rhis is a great
ig with deer
not unknown
is not a moose
■s of it as such
nee of a moose
I killed by a
many months
ry plentiful in
particular at
freciuently
inds within a
;iy track, and
inarkable feat
ine to capture

^•e

re numbers in
g the line of

oods. \Voo<l-

ngs at a nuni-
asily secured

f Drummond-

is at Lake St.
le islands be-

Francis and
nlet a sail of a

to localities
; of this sport.

Lake St. I'eter, that beautiful expai:-
sion of the River St. I<a\vrence, is al. at
twenty miles long, not including the
islands at its head, and is .some nine
miles across at the widest part. Around
its shores are many places of a nature tc
attract the sunnner visitor. I'urther
down the St. Lawrence are Gentilly and
Becancour, reached from I'orestdale
station ; Lotbiniere, ten miles from
Lanrier station, and St. Croix village, five
miles from the station. Good fishing is
found in the vicinity of (ientilly and
IJecancour, the latter being situated near
the mouth of the river of the same
natiie.

That part of the country along the line
which includes St. Croix, St. Apollijiaire
and St. Nicholas, has a fame for the
c|uantity and (piality of its cheese and
potatoes. In respect to the latter com-
modit\-, St. Nicholas takes a very high
])lace. Its annual yield, according to the
last census, was 133,143 bushels, or con-
siderably more than half of the total
raised in all the thirteen districts of the
county of Levis, of which it is a part.
This record is not approached within
40,000 bushels by any district in the
province of Quebec east of ^lontreal, and
is exceeded by only one place in the pro-
vince — the great jiotato district of St.
Laurent. A farmer at St. Nicholas is onlv

heli)ing lo keep r,) the average among his
neighbors when he raises five or six
thousand bushels of jiotatnes in a season.

Passing Lanrier, th" railway, which
is about 24 miles from the St. Lawrence
at Drunnnondvillc, draws closer to the
south shore. Heyond Lanrier it is only
five nnles distant, al (2hau<liLMe the dis-
tance is less than three miles, while at
Levis, opposite (juebec, the rails run to
the wharf ami the grandest river of
Canada is sei'U at what is, to many, the
grandest part of its .shores.

Cliaudiere Junction, where there is a
connection of the Intercolonial Railway
system with the Grand Trunk, is of inter-
est chiefly because of the beautiful falls
of Chaudiere, a glimpse of which may be
hrul from the train, but which reqviire a
special visit in order that their beauties
nniy be seen and umlerstood. It is from
the.se falls that the name " ChaudiOre "
(cauldron) is derived, ami the fitness of
such a title can be realized by those who
.see the turmoil of the waters after they
have accomplished their descent. The
Chaudiere river, though more than a
hundred miles in length, is less than 400
feet wide at the falls, and as the body of
water is forced over the rocks three
divisions are made in the face of the
cataract, which iniite as they approach
the bottom, 130 feet below.

QUEBEC FROM LEVIS

Inifiiolcnial Route

In the Ancient Capital

ROM ChaiidiC're
J miction to Levis
is about n i ii e
niilfs, and for
the latter jiart of
the distance the
River St. Law-
rence is in full
V i e \v where it
forms the harbor
of Ouehec. Ap-
proaching Levis, the harbor and river
are seen to ))e dotted with every kind
of craft, from the ocean steamer to the
canoe. The eye beholds the historic
heifjhts at Sillery, the Plains of Abraham
and the <{rand old city itself. There is
(Juebec as the stranger has seen it
])ictnred, but he now realizes that no
])icture can do it justice. The clifTs. the
citadel, the s])ires, the tin roofs jflisteninjf
in the sunlifjlit — all are very real to him,
and he lon.t(s to enter the city which is so
majestic in its past and ])resenl. Promin-
ent on the heitfhts, and in such tlioronj<h
architi'Ctural harmony with the surround-
injfs that one would think it had always
1)een there, is the Chateau I'rontenac, a
])alace hotel with a site unr- vailed in
Rurojie or .America. lUiilt in the style of
a sixteentli century chateau, faithful lo
the design in its details, it is yet in the
highest sense a modern hotel where the
luxurj' of travel is exemplified as at few
places, even on this continent where
>rreat hotels are far from being rare. The
Chateau is, of itself, one of the sights of
the Quebec of to-day.

yuebec is beyond descri])tion. It is
unique among the cities of the continent.
Could one forget his past and live only in
the thought of his surroundings, he might
imagine hini.self dropped down in some

corner of Kurojie. To him who has come
from the busy cities to the south and
west, everything is strange and new.
Other jilaces anticipate the future ;
Quebec clings fondly to the past. It is
well that it should be so, for, in this
practical and prosaic age, but few jilaces
retain the halo of romance that surrounded
them in their early years. Here, despite
of the marked commercial progress of the
city, the past and present are insejiar-
ably interwoven. As in the case of the
modern post office and the ancient Chicn
d'Or, the structures of later years often
derive much of their interest from the
history of their sites and their surround-
ings. It is ill vain that old buildings
give place to new ones, and that the needs
of men have brought into use the latest
discoveries of an inventive age. None of
these give their character tuthe city. Its
old-time charm will not de])art. The
Quebec of to-day reminds one at every
turn of the Ancient Capital as it was in
the centuries that are dead and gone,

A wonderful old city it is. One does
not realize its grandeur until he stands on
this or that spot — it matters little where
it may be — and looks around him.
Kverywhere are monuments of a strange
and eventful history. On every hand are
the survivals of the seventeenth century.
There are buildings and places of which
volumes would be needed to tell the his-
tory. Hooks upon books have been
written, and still the recorded story of
Quebec is incoiii])lete. The task of tell-
ing all that could be told of the churches
and religious institutit)iis would of itself
be a prodigious one. N'onder is the Hasi-
lica, begun in i6j7 when Louis XIV was
king and the star of France shed a bright
light over the eastern and western worlds.

has come
outh anil
and new.
I future ;
St. It is
r, in this
ew ])laces
iirrouuded
re, despite
fress of the
-e insepar-
•ase of the
lent Chicii
ears often
from the
surround-
, huildinj^s
t the needs
I the latest
None of
ecity. Its
art. The
at every
it was in
jrone.
One does
e stands on
ittle where
nind him.
I strange
ry hand are
h century .
■s of which
ell the his-
lave heen
■d story of
isk of tell-
le churches
Id of itself
is the Basi-
s XIV was
,ed a hright
.ern worlds.

With llie exce])li()n cf that at vSt. Augus-
tine, I'Morida, this church is the oldest on
the continent. It has treasures within
its walls, some of which have heen the
gifts of kings. Here are the most costly
vestments in .America, aiidhereare paint-
ir.gs dating hack far into the centuries,
representing llie work of the great schools
of luu'ope. Notable among these is that
wonderful picture of Our Saviour on tlie
Cross, ]>ainted by VanDyck in 1630, and
it is only one of a treasury of the masters
to be found in the Hasilica, Lavid,
the Trsuline Convent and other rejjosi-
tories of art in Quebec. How these
pictures came from the old world to
the new has been mentioned in con-
nection with the cathedral at Nicolet.
In the (lays of the I'rench Revolution,
when neither art nor religion were held
sacred and when churches and jjalaces
were desjioiled, it was only by the efforts
of such men as the Abbe Desjardins that
these pictures were rescue<l from v.indal

hands and brouglit to the diurches and
institutions of (juebec. Their value
to-day can scarcely be estimated, and it
need not be, for they cannot be purchased.
Dr. fieorge Stewart is authority for the
statement that when I'rince Napoleon
visited yuebec, .some years ago, he offered
any ])rice that might be named for one
])icture in the I'rsuline Chaiiel, but was
told that no offer could be entertained.
The ])ictures of yuebec are a theme of
themselves. .\n irreparable loss was
sustained when some of them were de-
.stroyed by the burning of the Seminary
Cha])el a numberof years ago, hut enough
remain to make yuebec the new world's
treasure house of the old world masters.
There is place after place in Quebec
where one may stej) from the bustle of
to-day back into the seventeenth century
before he realizes that he is doing so.
He may stand where the greatest of their
time have stood, and where their ashes
are mingled with the earth. Onlv a

THE CITADF.l.. OlFHI-.C CITY

hilfrioloiiial Kimlf

"^»

readily enlercil doorway sc'])arMtcs tlu'
taii^jiblu reality of to-d.iy from llii' j,a'iiur-
atioiis who have deparled. All around
are odd corners where the din of the
present does not 'listurb the sileiueof the
pa.t — from whiih is shut out the sound of
the stciini whistle, the runil)le of electrie
cars and the riiij^ of the telephone.
To-day is side by side with yesterday.
In the Lower Town, for instance, is an
<)])en market place where the farmers,
their wives and the thron;,' of customers,
make an animated i)ictin-e of the jiresent.
It is a very busy place on certain days
of the week. Close at haml is the Church
of Notre Dame des Victoires, bearitijf on
its front the date of 16S.S. In the sauie
wav the tide of traffic in the I'pjjer Town
surges around seven acres in the heart
of the city where the cloistered I'rsulines
abide in a convent founded half a century
before the old church in the Lower Town
was begun. In the Chajiel of the Ursu-
lines stands an altar erected by Bisho]) St.
Valier, as it has stood for more than
two hundred years, and it is only one of
many objects that remain as they were
in the centuries that have vanished. The
Iialo of anti(|uity is everywhere around
the Ancient Ca])ital. We see and touch
what has been seen and touched by the
peo])le of one generation after aiuither
from the early <lays of the old regime.
We realize our individual littleness in the
conteniplatit>n of so much that history
has made famous— that has itself been the
materialfor history that is im])erishable.

The tenacity with which all that is old
in Quebec clings to existence was shown
when the demolition of the Jesuits' Col-
lege was undertaken, in 1871. This
queer ramliling pile, the former seat of a
college which existed before Old Harvard
was founded. resL-iled the despoilers to the
last. So well had the builders wrought
that yekrs \\ere required to elTace their
wor'k, slnd then only by the use of
(l<ilalnite— pick, crow and sledge httving
proven useless as weapons of destruction.

I/X)k where one wijl, the search for
what is of interest is not in vain. A day
might be spent around Laval with its

])ii-lures, its library of I2o,o(k) volumes
and its rare manuscrijits, though weeks
would be too short for some lovers of
such treasures. Street after street in the
city has a history worth hearing, and
house after house its traditions. .\l such
l)laccs as the Citadel, Wolfe's Cove and
the Plains of .\braham, the steps of the
victors and van(|uishe(l in the great con-
test may l)e traced. Wherever one goes
he treads historic ground. Wherever he
may have been among the fainous ])laces
of the earth, he recognizes Quebec as
uni(|ue, and in its peculiar features as
supreme among the cities of the continent.
There is but one Quebec — old, quaint and
romantic — the theatre that has witnessed
some of the gran<lesl scenes in the
dramas ])laye<l by nations.

The story of Quebec is recorded in
history, but no historian can do justice
to the theme. From the day when
the fleet of Cartier cast anchor on
these shores down to the hour when
the last gun was fired in anger from yon
batteries, the story is a romance which
fiction cannot surjiass. What scenes
of ho])e and fear, of deep patience, un-
daunted courage, and unflagging zeal,
have these old rocks witnessed. What
dreams of ambition, what bold projects
for the glory of God and the honor
of I''rance, have here been cherished.
Hither, from across the .sea came heroes.
Some sought fame, and found nameless
graves ; some grasped for wealth, and
miserably perished; while some, animated
solely by a zeal for the Cross, won martyrs'
crowns in the distant wilderness. For a
century and a half the banner of France
waved on the rocky heights. Priest,
soldier and citizen had followed the
"star of empire" to the western world
and found themselves in another I'Vance,
of which Quebec was to be the Paris, and
within the vast territories of which should
arise a mighty nation. Here was the seat
of the power of France in America ; with-
in the walls were held the councils of
slate ; and from tl;e rocks went forth
the edicts for the temporal and .spiritual
guidance of the peojile.

<Hi volumes
jiigh weeks
le lovers of
itreet in the

earing, mxl
s. At such
s Cove and
Ueps of the
; jj;reat roll-
er one goes
Vherever he
iinous places
Quel)ec as
features as
lie continent.
1, ([uaint and
las witnessed
nes in the

recorded in
11 do justice
; day when
;inchor on
hour when
rer from yon
nance which
kVliat scenes
l)atience, un-
aKRiiiK zeal,
ssed. What
)old projects

I the honor

II cherished.

came heroes,
nd nameless
wealth, and

liie, animated
Iwon martyrs'
lUess. For a
er of France
lits. I'riest,
llowed the
isterii world
Ither France,
e Paris, and
liich should
was the seat
iierica ; witli-
councils of
went forth
nd spiritual

i.irii./-: i iiAMJ>r.A/.\ stk/:/:/: (jri:n/-:c

I'ive j^enerations of men have seen and
honorccl the ICiij^lish fluff on the Citadel,
but ill a very great degree the religion,
language and customs of ohl I'rance
remain. Modern inij)rovements have come
here, as elsewhere, hut not to overshadow
or diminisli. The past speaks as does the
])iesenl. We may roam through queer,
crooked streets, and enter (inaiiit old
houses, ill the dark corners of which we
almost look for ghosts to come to us from
the hy-gone centuries.

Of all tlie F'rench settlements in Canada
(juehec best retains its ancient form.
The i.md of time has swept away the
ruins ot I'ort Royal, and the grass grows
over wha was once the well-nigh imjireg-
nable Louisbourg : but (juebec remains,
and will remain, the Niobe of the cities
of France in the western world. Here
lives luirope in America ; here the jiast
and the present meet together ; here the
seventeenth and twentieth centuries jostle
each other in the narrow streets.

/HleiKihiiiial A'miti'

Vet, out of these narrow streets, rises
the city set on a hill, on the rock founda-
tion that such a citj- should have. F'roin
the heights are seen glorious panoramas
across the mighty river and far dow ii the
face of its waters. Not less attractive as
a point of view is that grand parade,
the Dufferiii Terrace, crowning the cliff
for fifteen hundred feet It is the ideal
place for a morning walk, but he who
has ])oetry in his nature may rather linger
there in the long twilight of ;i summer
evening. The garish light of day has
passed. A gentle breeze conies from the
river. The last rays of the setting sun
have gilded the hills on the shores
beyond, while the line of the distant
mountains is blending with the sky. For
miles and miles the eye follows the river
as it flo-vs in silent grandeur to the sea.
Distant sails seem like the white wings of
sea birds, while " day in melting ])urple
dying," lulls "the" nlind into a dreamy
calmness. The shadows deepen. The

lights of Levis hej^iii to oliislcr ; Ihf
houses ill tlie I.owt'r Town arc hei'oniinn
more jilioslly in the j,'atlieiiii){ darkness ;
a sound of soft iiiusic comes from an open
casomeiil. We are amid scenes frauj^ht
with slraiij^e memories. Here stood the
stately Castle of Si. Louis, where, for two
hundred years, the l''rench and I'jinlish
rulers held tl.eir court. Its jjlory de-
parted amid a whirlwind of fire, l-'ar he-
low we can trace the outline of a street.
It is Clianij)laiii Street. How black it
looks ; it reminds us of the darkness of
that winter morniii)^ 1(>"K "K". when
Richard Mont,i;oinery and his men rushed
throu'jh it to their death. I-',vervwherc

around us have llic horrors of war heeii
felt ; and to-ni^lil nil is so i)eai-eful that
the tlioii)4ht of war seems out of harmony
with the scene. The hells from the ship-
\ni\^ ill the liarhor sound musically
throu^di the (|uiel ;iir ; the ])laiiilive notes
of the hujjle are home to us from the
Citadel ; and the (lash and roar of the
eveiiinj; jj;uii tells of nij;ht fallen u])oii the
Ancient Capital.

I'oets have suiij,' of yuebec, but it is a
])oem of itself which no laiijjuaf^e can ex-
press ; its memories liiij<er in the mind
like the sweet remembrance of har-
monious music heard ill the years lon^
])assed ;i.way.

■■■■

> '■'■^■t^^^mm

wmm^^_^

^^^

■k

•

■

01'

■>

/Jirr/CA'/.y 7/;a'A'. i ta • (jui:jij:c

Inlcriolonial Routf

•^-r

of war hi'c-ii
])fiu-c't'iil llial
t of hariuony
roiii the slii])-
(1 imisirally
laiiitivc tiolfs
us from the
roar of the
Ik'ii upon the

V, hut it is a
;uaj,'i.' can cx-
iii the uiind
nee of har-
e \i'ars lonjj

Canada's Famous Shrine

iKiloiiial Roiili

SCORl'; of mile;, from
the city of Ouehee is
a mere country vil-
la>,'e of a few hiiU'lred
inliahitants, wliich is,
in one sense, a still
more re m ark ah I e
])lace tliau the An-
cient Ca])ital itself.
'j3 I'Aery yearthere Hock

to this village thou-
sands to wlioni Unehec, with all its wealth
of historic iissocialions, is hut of passinj^
interest, who come from widely distant
l)oints animatecl hy a wonderful faith, and
who are seekin^f tlirou).;h that faith the
hoon of health which all humanit\'
craves. This ])lace is Canada's famous
Shrine of Ste. Anne de lieaupre.

The name and fame of this little villa)j;e
and its wonders have jfone abroad over
the face of the earth, It is known on
hoth sides of the ocean. It is the ob-
jective point of ])ilgrims from all (piarters
of the j^lobe. As many as 130,000 have
visited it ill the course of a year, luimber-
iiijj people t)f all aj^es and of all ranks of
life. The whole parish of Ste. Anne has
a resident ])opulatioii of considerably less
than 2,()<)o, but there are days in suinnier
when from 5,g<x5 to 7,000 stranj^ers
visit the shrine and crowd the roads.
In addition to ilu'se multitudes throuj^h-
out the season, there are undoubtedly
many individual visitors who do not
lej^isler their names, ami of whom
no record is ke])t. There are piljjriius by
the hundred even in the dreary nionlhs
of winter, for no sea.son is too severe for
the sufferer who hopes that his faith may
he rewarded by the cure of his bodily ills.
To the matter-of-fact man of the world
to-day, the existence of the Shrine of Ste.
.^ Anne and its miracles may appear an

; anachronism in the twentieth century.

The a).;e of miracles is ])ast, says the
doubter; in reply, Ste. .\iine de beanpre
points to its thousands of crutches and
other tokens of the lame, the halt and
even the blind, who have come to the
shrine and have walked away cured.
Whatever be the creed of the visitor,
however he may sti ive to account for
what takes place, the suiistantial evidence
that it does take jilace is before him. lie
may even chance to see one who has been
known for y<;ars as a crii)])le rise up ami
walk in the ])resence of thousands, and
he may collect the testimony of eye wit-
nesses in hundreds of other cases The
marvels which are chronicled are not of
to-day alone, but date back for more than
two hundreil years. They have been
testified to by the people of each ).;ener-
atioii back to a dale a century before
Ivngland coiujuered Quebec, and the
o])eninjf of the twentieth century finds
increasing multitudes seeking this shrine
in as the proportion advance of science
abridges time and sjiace by improved
facilities for travel.

Ste. Anne de IJeauprc is situated close
to the water on the north .shore of the
St. Lawrence, about twenty-one miles
below Quebec, from which city it is very
easily reached either by rail or steamer,
both the station and the wharf are close
to the church grounds and the group of
hotels. The Ouebec railway follows the
shore, and for the whole distance it runs
through what is practically a continuous
village on one side, with the broad St.
Lawrence on the ^)ther side. There are
stations everj' few miles, and no less than
eleven in the course of the journey. Along
the route are seen many of the farms
which, from theama/.ing disproportion of
their length to their width, are a puzzle to
the stranger in various sections of the
country along the Lower St. Lawrence.

Till- i'X])lMiMtiiiii (if their jH'i-iiliar
f<trin is sitii])li- ciiniij,'!! wIumi it is
iiiiitcrstood iliiit tln'si' rariiis, orijiiii-
aliy of fail- wiiilli, have ftuiii lime
lo time lieeii (livi(ie<l aiiKiiij; heirs hy
the simple pnu'ess of ruiiiiin^,' the lines
from front to rear so as lo ,uive eaeh a
shari" of froiitai^'e on the hij^liway. In
some iiistanees ihi- !i:'s made the strips
very narrow. In the twenty-one miles
covered l)V the (Jnehec raiKvay .^fio deeds
were reipdred to seenre the right of way
from the varions proi)rietors. Anioni; the
deeds were two from two brothers, livinjj;
side hy side, each of whui:! owiumI a farm
nine feet wide and a I'reneh leaj^^ne of
three and three-(|i:arter miles loiiK-

Montmorency I'"alls, a little more than
six miles from (Jiiehec, are seen on the
route to Sle. Anne, the railway passing so
close to them that, in the spring and
aiitnnm when there is a hesivy run of
water, the sjiray kee])s the track wet.
The.se falls have a height of 250 feet, or
nearly a hundred feet more than Niagara,
and they merit a special visit on their
own account, as well as un account of the
objects of interest in the vicinity, inclu<l-
ing the natural sle])s and the Hall man-
sion, once the residence of the Duke of
Kent. The falls m;iy he reached by a
delightful carriage drive from Ouebec,
and by the electric railway, which now
extends to Ste. Anne.

Beyond Montnu)rency, on the line of
railway, are the historic villages of I,'Ange
tiardien and Chateau Richer. The oldest
working grist ndll in Canada is that be-
longing to the latter seigniory, operated
by the waterpowerof the I'etit Pre stream.

Ste. Anne de Heaupre would be a
village of no imjxtrtance if it were not
for its relation Ut the shrine. The whole
parish, indeed, has less than three
hundred dwelling houses, the greater ])ro-
porlion of which are one-storey buildings.
In the immediate vicinity of the church,
however, are nearly twenty hotels and
boarding houses, several of them being
large structures. There are many days in
the year when these are crowded to excess
by the vast tide of humanity, while

hniiclreds get their nu'als at the convent
or beneath sheds in the ojieii air.

The church is in charge of the Re<li'm])-
torisl I''athers. It is a large and hand-
some ediiU'e, and the front is surmounted
by a colossal statue of Sit'. .\nne, richl>'
gililed. 'I'he interior of the church has
much that is beautiful to the eye, in the
main luulding itself and in the fourteen
side clia])els. Ivverything is of the be.st
material and workmanshi]), as may be
judged from tin- fait th.it the high altar
and baldachin, both of elaborately carved
white marble, are valued at about #12,000.
Hehind this is a jiaintiug by the famous
I,e lirun, donated by the .Mar(|uis de
Tracey, viceroy of Canada, as far liack as
1666. In the treasury are gifts in solid
gold and silver, many of them of great
value, and here is the costly vestment
given by Oueen .Anne of Austria, mother
of Louis XI\'. of h'rance, and worked by
her own hands. This royal gift was sent
as long ago as 1667, but time and use have
not \et marred its beauty. There are
many things to be seen, indeed, but it is
within the church i>ro])er that the interest
must centre. Here are the relics of Ste.
.Anne, of which the church has four,
])ortions of bone from her body, and each
day a relic is ex])ose(l for veneration. In
the main aisle is a ])illar upon which is a
crowned statue of .Ste. .Ainie with the
Hlessed Virgin in her arms, and on feast
days the crowns they wear are of solid
gold. In the railed enclosure aromul this
])illar are some of the canes and crutches
left by those who have gone awav healed.
These memorials are but few, however,
comp.iredwilh the great collection of them
to be seen in the form of high ])yraniids
near the entrance doors ;ind on the stair-
wav leading to the choir. There are
crutches, canes, shoes with all kinds of
thick soles, shoes with sujiporting irons,
surgical ;ii)pliances. harnesses for short
legs and crooked legs, bottles half fdled
with discarded medicines, bandages, ])ads
— in short, such an array of all kinds of
the belongings of disease and deformity
that one might su])])ose an army of
cripples had suddenly vanished, leaving

•zr-'

its L'(|iiii)iiu'nts l)c-liiii(l. All riiiks i>f lilV
are ri-prcseiited. There are the nmnh,
liotiie-tiiade sticks of the very jxior ami
the finely finished work of llu- seiintific
iiistruineiit nmker. There are hundreds
of them, and yet the i)yraniids are hut
the aeinniulation of ii reeent period, for
if all had heen preserved that have heen
deposited since pilgrims he,t;an to come,
another hilihlinj,' would he re(|uired to
contain thetn. Knch has heen left hy its

rin^^s and many Irilles of little intrinsic
value, hut once ])ri/e<l l>y their owners.
In one of the frames is a revolver, the
olTeriiif,', doulitless, of some youth who
valued it ahovc all his jxissessioiis. It
was the hest material gift ''»' lonld make
in token of his j^'ratitudi- to I, a Ilonne
Stc. Anne. The ofl'erinv;s thus maile are
of every class. The .solid golil and silver
in the treasury have already heen referred
to, and there are hesides costly watches.

/.v •/■///•; ci/iKcn AT ST/:. A.\.\i: ni: uiwrrRi:

Iiilei colonial Kntite

former owner as a token of the henefits
derived from a visit to the shrine, and the
story of .-iome of the individual crutches
is of deep interest. Huii},^ ujion the wall
in another jiart of the church is seen a
frame in which are arran<,'ed scores of
spectacles, left hy those whose sight has
been restored. Of touching interest are
several other frames containing a cnrious
assortment of all kinds of jewellery and
trinkets. There are watches, chains.

some richly adorned with jewels, and so
the offerings represent all classes, down to
the hnmhle habitant who g.-ive from the
depths of his heart when he left Ins cheap
ring or even his favorite tobaccc pipe.

In the vicinity of the chur.'h are a
number of objects of interest. There is
the fountain, to the waters of which mar-
vellous virtues are ascribed, and there is
the grotto by the roadside. In the old
cha])el are many things which were in the

chnroh ..f 1666, <>ii this site, ainl tlii-iv .ire
«\iiii)iis ]i,iiiiliiiKs, laili nf wliiili has its
history. Thf Si-alii Saiila, on aiiothi-r
part of tlif hill, is a copy of ihi- stairs 011
whii-li thf Saviour walki'd on the way to
and from jiulKiUfiit. These slairs are
intiMidi'd to Ih- asi-i'iicU'd kiiri'lin^;, with a
pravt-r at i-aili of tin- IwcntN li^ihl stips,
ami slraiij^ers wlio wish to ri-aoh the
ujipir floor will IiikI onliiiary stairways
by K<''"K around to Iht- rear on the lirst
floor. Tlii'ii tluMf is the convent of the
I'ranciscau nuns, wherf nicals luav he

hiid, and to many visitors a very curious,
place is the hurial ground with its.
peculiar monnments. On the hill ahove
this is the Calvary with the o|)iii air Sta-
tions t)f the Cross, each cross having; in it
a piece i)f stone from the Holy I, and.
Ther»' is, indeed, so much to he seen in
the nei)4hl)orhood that the visitor who
merely sIojjs to take the return train neXa
a very imperfect idea of how much there
is that ilemaiids alteuliou. In all
.\merica there is no jjlace that in any way
reseml)les Sle. Alllie de Heaui)ri'.

/.n/7;a7('A' of cuvKcit AT ST/:. .\.\:\F. Dr. liE.Mi'm:

Inliicoloniiil Route

The Lower St. Lawrence

I'.WINC. Oiuhci-,
till- jminu'v is rc-
Miiiic<l liy way of
till' IntiMi'idoiiial

Ml Levis, nil tllf

i>I)|)(>sili- sliorc.
1,1'visitst'lf, wliilf
a placi.' of imich
liistorir iiitiTi'st,
is iiol a iioiiil
wlifii' tin- loiiiist
is wont lo linjjer. It is, however, well
worth a visit in connection with a sojourn
in Onehec. Millions of ilnllarshavt- Iicimi
i-xpi-ndiMl by lliL- Hrilish Covirniiiriil in
llii' construction and iiiiprovcnu'iit of the
system of forlifu'alions that crown llie
lleiKhls, but the chances are that ocean
steamers, rather than cannon, will con-
tinue to send forth the smoke which casts
tile shadows on the broad and beautiful
St. Lawrence.

I'or the next two hundred miles or
so after the dejiarture from Levis, the
traveller ]iasses throu),di a jitirely I'rench-
Caiiadian country. One after another
the typical vilhif^es come into view, with
their hm\i, narrow farms, their low-l\.n}^
bnildiii;rs and (juaint cottages, built to be
ileli!j;htfully airy in the summer and yet
to withstand the keen cold of winter. In
every xillaj^e is seen the j)arish church,
usually a substantial edifice of stone,
while here and there a larj^e cress, on
some distant hill, stands out in bold relief
against the sky. A ])eacefnl i)eoj)le are
these habitants of the Lower St. Law-
rence, sim])le in their tastes, primitive in
many of their ways, and liavin;,; an abid-
iiiff devotion to their mother tonj,aie and
inotlier church. In the tenacity with
whidi they adhere to their lanj^uaKe,
their customs and their faith, they are as
conservative as any people on the eartli.

Where iniinx.itions come with the ad-
vance of the (•ountry from year to year,
they ada])t themselves to the new con-
ditions, l)ut Chanel' little of themselves.
When left to be as the\ have been their
wants ari' few and easily supplied. They
live trani|uil anil moral lives ; and they
are tilled with an aliidin^ love for their
laiiniiauL ami a |)rofound veneration for
their religion, liy nature linhl-hearte<l
and vivacious, they are optimists with-
out knowinj.; it. Innured to the climate,
they find enjoyment in its most rij,forous
seasons, breiuh in all their thou>{hts,
words ami dicils, they are yet loyal to the
British cn)wn and content mnler Itritish
rule. The ancient I.iws are secured lo
them by solemn comjiact ; anil their
lanj^nai.;e and religion are lainlmarks
which will never be moved. In i)laces
where the lvn,t;lish have established them-
selves, some of the habitants understaml
the language of the intruders, but none
of them ado])t it as their own. The
niin).;linj,' of races has a contrary efTect,
and the luij^'lish tonj^ue yields to the
iMcnch.

How thoroujfhly bVeiich some portions
of this country remain is shown by
the census returns. In the counties of
I/Islet and Kamouraska, throu>;h which
the Intercolonial runs for more than sixty
miles, the po])ulatioii wasj^iven n\.^\,2~~.
Ol these only 61 were not I'"rench Cana-
dians, and in the matter of relij^ions
belief only five were other than Catholics.
It is needless to remark that this part of
Canada is not disturbed by factions due
to rival races or creeds.

Kighty miles from Levis is Riviere
Onelle, which takes its name from a
tragedy in which Madame Honel was the
heroine, in the days of the Irotinois.astold
ii 'Abbe Casgrain's " La Jongleuse."

.i^'

It is said that the trai-ksof showsIuk'S and
till' iiii])riiUs of himiaii hands and tVol
were to lie seen in the solid roek at this
])laee in former years. 'l"he hotel at
the wharf is ahonl six miles from the
station and will aceonimodale upwards
of seventy-live people. A niun))er of
summer eott.ij^es have been Itiiill in Ihe
viciiiitx-.

St. I'asehal station is eighty-nine miles
from lAvis, ami a drivi'of live miles from
it hrini^s one to Kamonraska, a village
lieautifnllv silnati'd on the shore of the
St. Lawrence. It is loeate<l on a ])oint
which reaches seaward, an<l has a line,
well sheltered sand beach ahonl half a mile
in leni^th. The visitors here are largely
those who own or hire cottages by the
sea.son, and who seek for ino'e (piiet and
rest than lan be found at the larj;er
waterinj; ])laces. Of recent years ni:iny
stran.ners have found out the beauties of
the jilace, and it is becoming; more popular
every season. It has j.M-eat natural ad-
vantajjjes, and the bathin;.; is es])ecially
j.;ood. A number of ])ictmes(pK' isl.iuds
in the vicinity alTord additional ])leasures
to boatiii.i; parties. Kanumraska has much
to cominenil it to the tourist.

W. many places alont; this shore only a
narrow slri]) of land se])arales the St.
Lawrence from the head waters of the
River St. lohn and its tribularii'S, in New
Urunswick. 'I'luse phu-es, alTordinj; as
thev do ready means of coniunuiic.itioii,
are called ])(>rl.i.i.;es. 'i'wenty miks bi'low
St. Paschal this distance between the
waters is twenty-six miles, and hence the
name of the \illaj;e of Notre Dame du
I'ortaj^e. It is a (piiet, retired s])ot, but
its line beach and excellent facilities for
bathiiif; make it a very eiijovable resort
for the families who spend their summers
there.

Riviere du Loup

The apjiearaiu'e of Riviere' dn I,ou]),
when one arrives there by train, is
suggestive of a railway centri-, but the
]»laee is a summer resort as well, ami one
of lon,n estal)lished re])Ulalion. lieyoud
the euvironnu'iit of ilu' station is iMaser-
ville, so called from the I'raser family, in

whom the seij^niorial rii^dils wert' vested.
Beyond this a^ain is the St. I.awri'uce,
with all its s])lendid possibilities for balh-
ini.;, boating, fish inq and shootiuv;, in the
]>ro]ier seasons. Many of the men ])ro-
minent in Canadia.i public life have s|)ent
]iorlions of tluir siunniers lu^ri', ami it
has also been the holidav resort for .son U'
of the j;()vi'rnors-j.;eneral. .Vjiart from its
own attractions, it is a com enieut centre
from whii'li oiu' ni.iv j^o to various ])oints
I'ither on the river or into the forests
where lish and name abound. W'l !■ a
visitor n mains in Riviere du I,ou|), how-
ever, then- is nmch to interi'st him. The
scenery is charmini;, the walks and drives
are varied, the bathin).(fai'ilities excellent,
while the shootin.!L; and lishinj; in the im-
mediati' vii'iuily alTord am])le ricri'ation.
iMue views m.iy l)i' had from niaiiv ]ioints.
Sitnati'd near till' con Ihu'uce of tlu' Rivieri'
du I. oup and the St. I.awrenci', and beinj;
on the slnue of the lattt'r, the ])laci'
abounds in ])ictures(|ue sceni'i v of all
kinds, Near the railw.iv, tlu' smaller
river has a descent of more th;m 200 feet
by a succission of falls, which make their
way throu.!.;h a .uori^e over which hiyh
and pri'cipitous rocks stand sentinel. In
the vicinity, " hills jiee]) o'er hills,"
clothed all in the varying hnis of nii'i'u,
while towards the St. I.awri'Uce the ojieu
country, sprjnkleil with wt'll linished
houses, makes a pleasiut; contrast to llu'
rn.i.;,t;ed as]K'ct of the laml which
lies in tln' rear. rjion the shore a
i.;lorious ])r<ispect is open to view. Mere
till' esluarv vvidi'us in its journey to the
sea, ami the mountains on the imrlliern
shore, a score of miles distant, stain! out
in bold relief aj;ainst the clear blue sky.
I'lion the waters, just farenonjjh away to
lend inchautmeiit to the view, are the
white-vviu.v;ed argosies of commerce, bear-
ins,' the llaj;s of every maritime nation.
.\t times a lon.n, low sha])e on the wavi's
and a dark, slender cloud lloatint; lazily
awav mark the jialh of the oci'an steam-
shii>. Nearer the shore are smaller craft
of all sizes ami shapes- niauiu'il by
fishers, traders, and .seekers after pleasure.
If one loii.ijs to join them, a boat is at

li.iiid anil SDoii is (laiu'iiif^ on llii' ni'tilli"
l)ill(>\vs, whili' till.' M'a hinis .-kini \\\v
watiTs ill tlii'ir oiivliiij; lli);lils, ami tlu'
si)K'inn-i'\(.'il lonp-iiiarili lisi's lU'ar at
hand, \anislu-s and risi-s a.!j;aiii a> if si'iit
l)v N'i'])lniK' to diMiiand tlu' slraiincr's
cTrand. U was rioiii llu'si' I'ri'alnti's, say
sdiiii-, that thi' riviT (K'livcd its naini-,
rathiT than I'to'ii thi' ill-visaj^i'd wolf of
the forest.

The waters alioiind in all kind of erea-
tnres, ,nreat and small. The chief of lliese
is the white whale, the Helnija Hoiealis,
whieli is nsnally, hut erroneoiisly, teiined
the while ])or])oise. Its leiij.;tli is from
foiirtetn to twenty-two fei't, and eaeh
carcass yields .soinethini; over a hundred
(gallons of oil. 'I'lie halihiit ami stiif).;eoii
come next in order of size, after them
the salmon, and then all the small lish
comiiioii to this latitude.

The heaches aloiij; this shore olTer ex-
cellent facilities for bathing', and the
water is of an a,>.;reeal)le tein])eratnre. .\s

for the ti-mperatiire of the air, it may he
said of all the i.ouer St. Lawrence that
the snmiiU'r climate isi'ver\ thiiii; a tourist
coiiM desire. Tlu' hree/e is of itself a
most invi^oratini^ Ionic.

Teniiscoiiata I.ake, reached from
Riviere (In I,onp by ,i run of fifty miles
over the Teniiscoiiata railway, is a line
plaie for takiliiLj tiiladi and lake trout hy
trollinij during; June and July. This lake
is about twent\ -eij;ht miles loii),', varyinj^
from a mile and a half to three miles in
width. (lood brook trout lishiiiff is also
to be found aloni^ this line of railway.

Across the Broad River

Sli'aniers callint; at Rivieri' dn I.oiii)
furnish o])])ortiinitii's for visitinj,' the
notable watering; pl.ices on the northern
shore. Mi'iition nia\ be made of Mnrray
Hay and Tadoiisai', but by far the most
wonderful si.nlit for the tourist is the
f.iiiu'd Saj;iienay KiviT. It is one of the
most rcmark.ible of nature's works in a

TAi'ors.ir

IlllfllitltlllUll Ix'lllllf

continent where natural wonders abound.
Hayard Taylor has described it as "a
natural chasm, like that of the Jordan
Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for sixty
miles through the heart of a mountain
wilderness." This terse description is a
word picture, but he who would Rrasp
the details of that picture must .see the
Sa}j;iienay for himself. Its waters, black
and silent, have vast dejjths. The river is
said to be deeper, by 600 feet, than the
mighty St. Lawrence into which it
empties. There are peojile of the country
who believe its depths cannot be
fathomed, and they tell of thousands of
feet of line which have been paid out in
the vain attempt to find bottom in certain
places. I,et one imajfine such a river
flowing between walls of rock, which
tower in places to a height of nigh 2,o«x)
feet, and he will realize the significance
of such names as Ca])e Trinity, Cajie
Eternity and Eternity Hay. In the
majesty and glcjom of such surroundings,
the reflective mind must ever feel the
most profound reverence anil awe.

At the mouth o." the Saguenay is
Tadousac, a wonderful old settlement,
with enough eventful histor\' of its own
to sup])ly material for a volume, were the
records but available. It is undoubtedly
the oldest Euro])ean settlement in
Canada, and perhaps in .-Vnierica. Hefore
Champlain began to build Quebec, it
existed. Nay, before Jacques Cartier left
St. Malo to find out Canada, Tadousac
was the resort of the Basque fishermen,
whose fathers had lesorted thither before
them. One writer, \V. H. H. Murray,
has evolved the theory that not only were
the Basc|ues here before Columbus was
born, but that their ancestors, the sea-
roving Iberians, visited this harbor even
before Christ was .sent to man or Rome
was founded.

So it is with ])rofound reverence that one
looks upon this spot, which is historically
older than the cou'itry of which it is
a part. It was the ancient metropolis
of Canada, the chief trading station
before one of the cities of to-day had
sprung into existence. Here was erected

the first stone house, and here, too, was
the first church. The ])resent structure,
a modern affair dating back a little more
than 150 years, is built upon the site of
the first ])lace of worshij), and it is said
that the .-\ngelus is rung out to-day with
the bell by which it was souiuled more
than three hundred years ago.

It is of this bell that a strange story is
told— a story not made mythical by its
anti{|nily, but coming so near our own
times as to be told by those now living
who heard it from those who were living
then. It has ai)peared in various forms,
but so far as is known not in such a way
as to be accessilile to the ordinary
traveller. Eor this reason, and because
it is worthy of i)reservation, an outline is
given here.

In all that pertains to the history of
Canada from the advent of Cartier until
the cession to England, religion is every-
where interwoven. The courage, zeal and
self-devotion of the Jesuit missionaries
will be remembered while the world
endures. They never wearied or looked
back, and long after the confiscation of
their property and the sujipression of
their order they continued their labors .
among the savages, .\mong the last of
the Jesuit missionaries in Canada was
Pere Cotjuart, whose gra»e is in Chicou-
timi, nearly a hundred miles u]) the
Saguenay. With him in his labor of
l)reaching the Gospel was I'cre Jean
Rajitiste Labrosse, a good— nay, from all
that is told, a .saintly nuin, who.se tomb is
at Tadousac. Eor nearly thirty years
the gentle I'ere Labro.sse wrought to bring
the Indians to a knowledge of the Cross,
anil in 17S2 he had reached the allotted
age of three score and ten, yet, as with
Moses, "his eye was not dim nor his
natural force abated." On the loth of
.\])ril in that year he spent the evening
with his friends at Tadousac, but at nine
o'clock he arose from their midst, with a
look of strange peace on his face, and
bade all farewell until eternity. He
would die at midnight, he said, and when
his spirit left the flesh the church bell
would toll to tell his peojjle that he was

ere, tou, was
•lit slrucUiri.',
a little more
)ii the site of
and it is said
t to-diiy with
juiided more
().

aiige story is
lllical by its
ear our own
e HOW living
o were living
arious forms.
n sticli a way
he ordinary
and because
an outline is

le history of

Cartier until

i(ion is every-

rage, zeal and

missionaries

e the world

ed or looked

)nfiscation of

ppression of

their labors ,

g the last of

Canada was

is in Chicou-

liles uj) the

liis labor of

I'ere Jean

ay, from all

lose tomb is

lirty years

ghtto bring

f the Cross,

the allotted

et, as with

im nor his

the loth of

the evening

but at nine

idst, with a

s face, and

rnity. He

1, and when

church bell

that he was

jrone from among them. He departed.
At midnight the bell tolled, the people
hastened to the church, and there before
the altar, as if in a peaceful sleep, Tere
Labrosse lay dead. At the same hour
that night, in every .settlement where the
departed missionary had jireached, from
the head waters of the Saguenay to the
I?aie de Chaleur, the bells of the churches,
tolled by invisible hands, bore to his con-
verts the tidings of his entering into rest.

When morning came a dense darkness
overhung the Saguenay. On the St.
Lawrence a fearful storm was r;;ging, and
the huge masses of drifting ice threatened
destruction to any craft, even within the
well sheltered harbor. Yet I'cre Labrosse
had directeil that a boat be sent to He aux
<2oudres, .sixty miles distant, that Pcre
Com])ain might come to Tadousac and
inter his remains with the forms of the
-church. I"our men, firm of faith,
launched a canoe, and as it advanced the
ice floes parted, leaving smooth water for
its jias.sage. So it was until He aux
Coudres was reachetl, and there, on the
shore, stood Pere Compaiii, who told them
of their errand before they could
announce it. The bell of his church had
tolled at midnight, a voice had sjwken,
telling of the death of Fere Labrosse and
of the mission of the four men who would
come to the island. Such is the story of
the good Jean Baptiste Labrosse and the
bell which rings to-day in the little
<-liurch which stands near the shore in the
harbor of Tadousac.

The trip between Riviere du Loup and
the Saguenay is one to <lelight the eye,
for in the clear atmos])liere of this climate
the scenery of both shores is seen to great
advantage. On the north side are the
Laurenliaii mountains, which reach from
Labrador to the remote regions of Lake
Superior, and along these shores attain
their greatest height, rising to 2,000 feet
at Cape Tourniente. With certain condi-
tions of the atiiiosi)here singular mirages
are sometimes seen as the south shore is
approached, and one in particular,
among the islands of the Riviere du
Loup and Kainouraska, is worthy of

special note. All the Lower St. Lawrence
is full of beauty, as well as rich in
historical reminiscences and traditions.

Forests and Streams

Taking Riviere du Loup as a centre,
the sportsman has a field only limited by
his time and inclination to shoot and fish.
Nature has been prodigal in her gifts, and
though Indians and their white lirolhers
have made sore havoc among the creatures
of the woods in the past enough remains
to employ the hunter fnr generations to
come. The moose, king of the North
American forests, was once to be found in
every jiart of the country. It retreated
gradually before the advance of civiliza-
tion, but for a long time vast herds of .
the.se creatures were to be found in the
Metapedia valley, where they were an
easy prey to the ])elt hunters. They were
still abundant when the liritish troojis
came to Canada at the time of the
" Trent affair," in the latter part of the
winter of 1.S62. Moccasins were needed
for the soldiers, and to procure them the
Indians sought the Metapedia and entered
on their work of slaughter. Hundreds of
the noble animals were slain, stripped of
their hides and left to rot in the woods.
For months afterwards the air was tainted
with the odor. It is not strange that the
moose forsook the valley for years. They
are still to be found in various parts of
this country, and under the game laws of
recent years they can no longer be openly
and needlessly slaughtered as of vore.

The caribou, game fit for any sports-
man, are still to be found in large num-
bers almost anywhere between St. Alex-
andre and Campbellton, within a short
distance of the railway track. In some
places the distance would be two, and in
others ten miles. Skill, experience and
good guides are necessary to find them,
but a si)ortsmaii who understands his
business, and who • ^ps to the right
locality, nee<l not b :V; ised if he bring
down as many as ill. ermits in a very

short time. To acc.n.^ .sh this he must
be ])rei)aied for his work and he ready to
stand some fatigue, if necessarj". There

■":?

is a choi^w 1 good f^rouiuls, when one is
at Riviere dii Loup. In the direction of
Teiniscouata Lake, for instance, to which
reference has already been made, the
forests abound in K'""^. v.-hile the lakes
and rivers teem with fish. Indeed, there
is good shooting to be h;id in all the
forests, and the hunter may make his
cruise as long or as short as he pleases.
The back country of Maine can be easily
reached from St. Alexandre, or one may
go twenty miles from Riviere du Loup
and find the St. Francis River, and follow
it to the St. John. I'Vom Ivlgin road or
L'Islet, the head waters of the Resti-
gouche and Miramichi may be reached.
All these are in the midst of happy
hunting grounds.

Some of the best caribou hunting is to
be had atnong the Shickshocks Moun-
tains, in Gaspd. This is the land of the
caribou. In the depths of the wilder-
ness, amid mountains nearly 4,000 feet
high, ^nd surrounded by scenery of the
nu)sl wild and rugged character, is an
abundance of rare sport. It was in this
part of the country thu* Lord Dunraven
started forty-one caribou in three days.

As for other kinds of game, there are
few parts of the country where it
cannot be had for the seeking. Rears
can be found almost anywhere outside of
the settlements at certain times of the
year, and are especially plenty around the
l)arrens in the autumn, when blueberries
are in season. Partridge are so common
that anybody who can handle a gun may
secure all he wants, when the law permits
them to be shot.

.\round the shores geese, brant and
duck 01 all kinds are found in immense
flocks, the soft fresh water grass, so
plentiful along the rivers, furnishing an
abundance of food in which they delight.
The black and grey duck, the curlew,
the golden plover, and the luiglish snipe,
are very abundant iluring the months of
September and October. Isle Verte and
Kamouraska are favorite resorts for these
birds, but there are many other j)laces
along these shores where hundreds ma}'
be shot with ease.

Much that has been said in regard to
the hunting in this vicinity will apply to
the country along the next two or three
hundred miles, or until long after the
bouiulary of New Bnmswick has been
passed. The sport at Riviere du Loup is
only a sample of that all along the
line.

So it is in regard to the fis'.iing, which
is of more immediate interest to the
summer tourist. The enthusiastic hunter
regards not the weather, and is willing to
endure cold and wet in his quest for game,
but lish are to be had when nature is at
her loveliest in this glorious summer land.
This is a country of fish, and such fish !
One who is not a fisherman may eat them
at every meal on his journey. He may
have halibut, salmon, herring, and smelt,
from the St. Lawrence, and salmon,
tuladi, sea, brook, and lake trout, from
the waters that are tributary to it.
Salmon are found in nearly all the rivers,
and the majority of the streams are
"eased by the government to individuals.
It is not difficult, however, for a stranger
to obtain pernnssion to fish. Trout are
found in all the rivers and lakes, and are
free to all comers. A not unusual size of
those in the lakes is from five to six
pounds ; in the rivers they run from
three to four jjounds. All the trout of
this region are very " gamey." and afford
abund.int sport. In the lakes is also
found the tuladi, which seems identical
with the togue of Xorlhern Maine and
New Hrunswick. Specimens have been
caught weighing as much as forty jjounds
each, or as large as a good sized salmon.
The average weight of them in Temiscou-
ata Lake is 27 pounds. The tuladi has
been confounded with the lake salmon of
Switzerland, and with others of the
salmon family of Europe, but it does
not a])])ear to be identical with any of
them. It is usually very fjit and very-
reserved — not to say lazy. It lurks and
lies in the deej) waters of the large lakes,
as is given to contemplation rather than
to gratification of ai)petite. I'or all
that, it is a voracious creature and has a
sly way of iipproaching the surface in the

3S»

ill regard to
isill apply to
two or three
ig after the
k has been
e (111 Loup is
along the

'.ling, which
Test to the
liastic hunter
is willing to
est for game,
nature is at
lUninierlancl.
d such fish !
nay eat them
ey. He may
[(, and smelt,
ind salmon,
; trout, from
utary to it.
all the rivers,
streams are
) individuals,
■or a stranger
li. Trout are
kkes, and are
lusual size of
five to six
run from
the trout of
and afford
akes is also
ins identical
Maine and
s have been
forty pounds
ized salmon,
n Teiiiiscou-
,e tuladi has
ke salmon of
hers of the
but it does
with any of
it and very-
It lurks and
large lakes,
rather than
For all
re and has a
iUrface in the

I'Dol hours of the morning and evening.
It does not rise to the fly, as a rule, but
may be taken by trolling. It is good
eating, though less delicate than either
the trout or the salmon.

Nearly all the lakes are free to fishers,
for all kinds of fish.

Canoe and Paddle

The Intercolonial has one feature which
few, if anv, railways possess U> the same
extent. For a distance of several hun-
dred miles it is intersected by rivers
easily navigable for small boats or canoes.
By the.se natural highways one iiia\'
jMirsue his journey far into the interior,
make a short i)ortage from the head-
waters of one to those of another and
descend the latter to the lines of railway
in New Hrunswick. A glance at the map
will show what ainjile o])])<)rtunities there
are for this kind of recreation. Leaving
the railway and ascending one river, com-
ing down another and up another, spend-
ing days among the lakes, fishing, shoot-
ing, enjoying life to the utmost, one is as
much in the wilderness as if thousands of
miles away. Yet all this time he kiir>ws
that, if necessary, a few hours will bring
him to the railway, the mail and the
telegrajih — to coinmunicate with the busy
world. He may leave the railway on the
shores of the St. Lawrence and make a
canoe voyage to the Baie <le Chaleur or
Ray of Fuiidy. When he arrives at his
destination he will find his luggage and
his letters awaiting liiiii. The route may
be varied ami the voyage jirolonged as
may suit the voyager's taste. Notably
good fishing may be had at Lake' vSt.
Francis and Temiscoiiata and on the
Touladi River ; but on such a triji one
iiriy fish and hunt everywhere as he goes.
In the Temiscouata region alone one may
make a canoe voyage for at le;ist eighty
miles, and if he choses can, by portaging,
descend the great Mirainiclii to the ocean.
Portages can be made so as to reach any of
the three great rivers of New Hrunswick,
the Miramichi, the Restigonche, or St.
John. The whole country is ojjen to any
man wliocan sit in a canoe and ply a paddle.

Cacouna

,Six miles below Riviere du Loiij) is
Cacouna station, and by an easy drive of
three miles over a smooth highway,
Cacouna Beach, the famed watering ])lace
of the Lower St. Lawrence, is reached.
Here is St. Lawrence Hall, a completely
eciuipjjed seaside hotel, with ample accom-
modation for 40Q jieople and a capacity
for half as many more should occasion
require. It is conducted in line with the
nio.st modern ideas of hotel life and
enjoys the favor of the best class of
tourists. It is situated close to the shore
and overlooks a beautiful stretch of sand
beach a mile long. Here may be enjoyed
the fullest luxury of se;i bathing, and the
beach presents an animated scene during
the season. In ;.ddition to the large
number who make the St. Lawrence Hall
their home for the time, there are many
who find accommodation at the smaller
hotels, of which there are several, and
others again who are found in their own
suinmer cottages. Some of these cottages
have been built by wealthy residents of
Montreal and Oiiebec at a large cost, and
are models of their class. Their number
is increasing every year, for the advaiit-
ages of Cacouna as a health resort have
long been beycnid dis]nite. .\ month or
so at Cacouna is a common prescription
of some of the leading physicians in tl;e
larger Canadian cities, and it is one that
is very jileasant for a jiatient to take.
The doctors often take it themselves.

The Church of iMigland clergy also
make Cacouna, in a way, an oflicial sum-
mer resort. .\ few years ago what is
known as the Clergy House of Rest was
established here, chiefly through the
efforts of Bislioj) Williams, of (Quebec,
assiste<l by i)rivate siibscri])lions. The
idea was to have a ])lace where clergv-
meti could s])eiid their holidays to ad-
\anlage, securing excellent accommoda-
tion at a limited cost. It is, in fact, a
ministerial hotel with the charges fixed
at a rate intended to defray the running
ex])enses. It is ])leasaiitly located near
the .Vnglican church, is fitted in modern

^Ivif :iiicl will nccoiiililiiihiti' ii])\v.inis of
iweiity ]ii"i)])k'. AiiiDiin (lUiir ocm-
veiiifiu'es il li:is a lilirary as |iarl of its
i'(|ili))iiR'iil. Till- iiiaiiatiiiiiitit is ill till'
hands of a I'oiiitiiiUcf uiuht \hv siii)iT-
vision of till' Aii^ilii'an liislio]i of Oiicln'c,
and till- ])atn)ns of tin- liousi' iiu-liidf
i-li'ij,'yiiu'ii from many ])atts of Canada.

Al Caioima, as at soiiif of tlu' ollur
siimnifr ri'sorls on tlii' St. l.awniu'i',
lluTf aif oppoiluniliis for fatiiilii's to
iTiit collars for till' summir moiitlis.
Some fartiii'rs own two lionsis, one of
whii'li tlii'y oi-i'ii]iy wliili' tlii' other is

for them with iiothiiijj; nior'. than a hoal
and ])air of oars.

In all of til! . part of Canada, whili-
winter eoines early and lintjers late,
nature maintains a balance by the ([uiek-
eiiiiiL; ])ower of the summer. Ivverythinj{
that is planted has a ra])id and vigorous
j.nowth. This is nolieeable al Caeouna,
i'. iiistaiues where ornamental trees have
bei'ii set out. I'jij^li.sh willows have been
known to jj;row at the rale of two, and
even three feet a year, and that in sjiitc
of the roeks anion.u wliieh they wer •
])lailled.

/>7;. I ( ■// .1 y i .1 ( (uw.i . (_>f 1:11 i-A ■

Inti'iCiitiiHt'iil A'otft'

leased for the season. In this way some
of them derive an income sufficient to
supjxirt tliem in the lonely winter,
when the slraiifjer has j.jone, .iiid the
natives sit aloii}j;si<le of Iwo-storey stoves
and dream of the comiiij; summer.

With the niounlains on one side and an
arm of the sea on the other he air is very
]nire. Il is so clear that out can scarcely
believe the op])osite shore is Iweiitv-one
miles away, but it is fully that in a
.strai},'ht line to the monlh of the
Saj,'uenay. So near do the distant hills
seem that one niijiht feel tem])leil to start

The name Cacouiia has a sound sug}.;es-
tive of the waves and the shore, but il
has no such meanintj. II signifies " the
place where many Indians are buried."
One would think that there should be ;i
legend connecled with this, but no one
a])pears to have any idea of the origin of
ihe name. No ancient Indian graves
have ever been found here. The oiil\
place of burial which has any storv
attached to il is on Cacouna Island, when
the w ild flcjwers grow undisturbed on tlu
graves of fifteen shi])wrecked sailors.

Good trout fishing is found in ihi--

^^^^T.

■jm

'. than a hoal

Canada, whik'

Hnjjers late,

by tlu' (Hiiok-

I-lvei ythiiij;

and vigorous

.■ al Cacouna,

ital trt'L's have

ows have been

e of two. anil

1 that Iti sjiitc

^^h tla-\- wer'

tt'ii'iiliiiiial A'o/itr

sound sujjges-
shore, but il
ignifu's " thf
are buried."

e should be a

s, but no one

the origin of

ndiau graves

re. The olll\
is any story
Island, when

Curbed on tlu

ed sailors.

found in ilii'-

\ieinily. Trout HrooU is the nearest
l)()int. three miles distant, but still better
results ean be obtained by a drive to the
lakes, fifteen miles away, and which are
reached by a good road.

Two miles frotn Caeouna is St. .\r.sene.
the most eonveiiieiU ])(iint from which to
reach Lake St. Uiiberl, twelve miles
distant. In this lake are ])lenty of
si)eckled trout, with an average weight of
from half a ])ouiul to one and a half
jjouiids. and which have a high rejjuta-
lioii oil account of their excellent flavor,

Trois I'isloles village isi)rettily situated,
and there is good lake ami river fishing
in the vicinity. Lake St. Simon, eighteen
miles from here, is a beautiful sheet of
water, and merits s])ecial mention. The
origin of the name of Trois I'istoles is
more obscure than even that of Cacouna.
It may have been derived from the cir-
cumstance that the first settler gave three
pistoles for a piece of land, from some-
body losing or fimling that sum, or from
a trade with the Indians in which that
amount changed hands. The aiili()uariaii
can choose the tradition that .seems most
re.isoiiable. There is no good aiithoritv
for any of them.

Bic! Beautiful Bic!

.\ village on the low land by the shore,
with mountains separating it from the
country beyond, confronted the en-
gineers when they sought to locate the
line of the Intercolonial at a jioint fifty-
five miles below Riviere du Lou]). It
was Hie. then as now well termed the
Heautiful. To-day the railway winds
around the mountain, one hundred and
fifty feel above the ])i)sl road. ])assing
|)laces where the rock was blasted to a
de])th of eighty feet that a bed might be
made for the track. On the one side the
steej) acclivity rises to a height of two
hundred and fifty feel above the passing
train ; on the other is a panorama of bav,
river and islets, which seem as the
environment of an enchanted summer
laml. l''rom this height is seen the St.
Lawrence, twenty-five miles from shore
!o shore, and ra])idly widening in its

journey until il nu-rges into the world of
waters.

It was from these heights, on a fair day
in June, long years ago, th.at anxious
eves watched a fieel of war-ships making
its nay up the ,Sl. Lawrence. Nearer il
came until the watchers could discern
that il carried the fiag of L'raiice. There
was joy in every heart. The long
expected succor had arrived from beyond
the sea, and swift messengers made ready
t(j carry the glad tidings to (Juebec.
.Siulileiily, as they looked, the ensign of
the leading vessel was run down and the
red cross of luigland fluttered in the
breeze. Having come thus far, stratagem
was no longer needed. The vessel was
the Richmond frigate, carrying C'leiieral
James Wolfe, and with him was an army
e(iui])])ed t\)r the concjue.st of Canada.
The fleet cast aiiclu)r within sight of liic
Island. Among the watchers on the
heights was a ])riest, who.se nerves had
been strung to the utmost tension with
joy at the sight of his country's flag.
When the dread truth was .so suddenly
revealed to him, nature could bear no
more, and he fell to the earth — dea<l.

I5ic is one of the finest natural watering
])laces on the Lower St. Lawrence. The
mountains are around il. and it nestles al
their feet amid a wealth of beautiful
scenery. There is more than a mere
stretch of shore. There is a harbor in
which an ocean steamer may ride, a
haven wherein vessels may hide from the
wrath of the storm-king. Romantic isles
lie amid the waters, and crags of rugged
beauty rear their heads around the bay.
IMeasaut beaches teni])t the bather ;
]>lacid waters invite the iioatman ; and
lie.'inty everywhere su.iimons the idler
from his resting-place to drive or ramble
in its midst.

Had il not been for the fleet that lay at
anchor beyond the island t)n that mid-
summer day in 1759, Hie might have been
;i fortified town anil it harbor a naval
station. Such was one of the jnojects of
I'rance, and there would have been a safe
and convenient rendezvous for the fleets
in these waters, for Hie is accessible al

seasons when the ii-e bars the p issajre to
Qiielicc. It was here, in the l)itterl.v cohl
winter weather of 1862, that Kngl.nid
landed men and munitions of war for the
defence of Canada. It does not seem,
however, that Hie should have anything
to do with war. Ivvervthing is suggestive
of pleasure and peace. Strangers are not
numerous, but lovers of beauty and seek-
ers after rest have located summer resi-
dences in the village, and year by year

t(dd it to Jaccjues Cartier, and it has u])-
l>eared in a great variety of forms ever
since. Hrielly stated, the tradition is that
a l)and of Micmacs, consisting of about
two hmnlred men, women and children,
heard of the a])])r()ach of a large i)arty of
hostile Iro(i\iois, .and lied for concealment
to the large cave which is to be seen on
this island. The Iroquois discovered the
place of retreat, and finding themselves
unable to dislodge their hidden foes by

'•L'fsi.irr .\r massal k'/:r it/c

hilei colonial Kouli

enjoy the cooling breezes. I'ishing is in
abundance ; and if there were no fish,
the .streams winding their way among
the hills, through all kinds of jiicturesque
dells, would well repay full many a toil-
some tramp.

One of the islands near at hand is
known as I,' Islet au Massacre, and associ-
ated with it is a tragic story of Indian
war. The tale is an old one. Donnacona

ordinary means, resorted to a thoroughly
savage ex])e(lient. Heaping dry wood in
and around the mouth of the cave, they
advanced behind shields of boughs, carry-
ing torches of bark, and ignited the ])ile.
The Micmacs were forced to leaji through
the flames, and as fast as they apjieared
were shuightered. All who were in tlu
cave were killed, and their boiies la\
bleaching on the island for many a year

and it has u]>-
of forms ever
Militioii is thill
sliiij; of about
and cliildreii,
larjre ])arty of
ir coiucaliiielit
i to lie seen on
discovered the
nj^ themselves
idden foes hv

ir^.

ms^mf^

eifolonia! A'ou/r

a thoroughly
dry wood in
he cave, they
"intrhs, carrv-
lited the jiile.
lea]) throuf^h
hey ap])eare(i
were in the
'ir bones la\
many a j-eav

thereafter. They were swiftly and ter-
ribly avcnj^'ed. Mr. Tache, in his "Trois
Le^eiides <le Mon I'ays," sa\s that five of
the Micniacs were sent from the island at
the first alarm, a part to demand assist-
ance from the friendly Malioites at Mada-
waska, ami the others to act as scouts.
Twenl\-tive Malicile warriors responded
to the summons, but too late to ])revent
the massacre. They then, aided by their
five allies, secretly followed the track of
the Iroquois, ami unseen themselves,
dealt death among; the ])arty as it ])ro-
ceeiled. The scouts had jireviously re-
moved the canoes and jirovisions which
the Iro(|uois had left in the woods, ami
so they marihed, dying by the hand of
an unseen foe and threatened with famine
ere they conhl gain their own country.
At length they reacheil the o])en woods
near Trois I'istules River, feeble .ind dis-
couniged. The band h.id shrunk to
twenty-seven men. I'inding traces of
!noose they began to hunt, and were leil
into an ambush by the foe, who burst n]v
on them and killed all but six. These
were mule ])risoners ; one was tortured
by the allies in the jiri'seiice of the other
five. The latter were then divided, and
the Malicites carried their three to IMada-
waska. The Micmacs returned to I5ic
with their two, and tying them with their
faces to the island, put iheni to death
with their most ingenious torments.
They then (|uitted Hie forever. Tradition
has ])eopled the neighborhood with the
ghosts of the slaughtered ;\Iicniacs, now-
dancing on the waters, now moaning
among the crevices f>f the rocks, shriek-
ing at times as with the .agony of souls in
])ain.

Ilattee Ray is another delightful s])ot,
not far from liic. The scenery, lluiugh
not so im])ressive .-is that of the latter
I)lace, is very attractive. One of the
features is a natural terrace, ami the
facilities for all kinds of exercise and
r.>creation are ahund.int. A number of
Iviigli.sh f.imilies reside at this ])lace, and
it has many admiring visitors during the
summer season.

R^ntouski and (he Hermit

Many jieople know of Rimouski chiefly
as a place where the ocean steamers re-
ceive and land mails and jia.ssengers on
the voyage to and from Kngland in the
summer. Anxious todcpart or get home,
they see little of the place beyond noting
that it is a thriving town, and that the
])ier rumiing out to deep water is of a
most surprising length. It extends for
nearl\' a mile, and is a most agreeable
promenade in summer daj's, when a con-
stant cool breeze i.s borne over the water.

The village of St. (iermain de Rimouski,
which is its full title, is the shiretown of the
coimty and the seat of the bishop of the
diocese. The catliedral, bishop's palace,
seminary, convents and other buildings
devoted to religious uses, are imposing
structures of stone, erected at a large
cost. The clergy are seen at every turn,
and the I'rench langu.ige is heard in
everv house. Save at tlij hotels and some
jiublic oflices, the thousands of English
who have passed through Rimouski have
done very little to leave the sound of
their tongue or the impress of their
journey.

The Rimouski River is the first iniport-
;mt salmon river below Quebec, and it is
under lease. Strangers who are sports-
men and gentlemen have, however, often
been permitted to fish in its waters, which
extend to a lake close to the boundary of
New Brunswick, and from which only a
short ])ortage is necessary to reach the
rivers Ouatawamkedgwick (commonly
known as the Tomkedgwick) and the
Restigouche. by means of which a canoe
can reach the Baie de Chalenr. The
salmon <>f the Rimouski are not of the
largest size, avi'raging less than twenty
])()iuiils, but there are plenty of them, as
well as an abimdance of trout. The
latter fish are easily to be had by those
who go after them, for there are aboitt
fifty lakes, large and small, within the
county. At Seven Lakes, 25 miles from
the village, there have been some re-
markable catches of trout. .\s for shoot-

iiiX, the woods are full of all kinds of fjanie.
The silualii)ii of Riiiionski is such as to
offer attractions to families who seek a
quiet suiuiuer with the eujoyinents of the
se:i side. There are excellent facilities
for salt-water fisliin>;, hoaliui; and hath-
inj;, the shore heiiijj protectetl from
rouf^hness of water hy the island of St.
Harnabe, which lies a short distance off.

This island, which h:\^ borne its name
since early in the seventeenth century, is
about two miles lon^, contains a small
lake, is well woo<led and is a favorite
resort for picnics. It has its story, and a
very touchinj.^ one. There are .several
versions of it, but that ,t,'iven by
Monseijiueur (ruay in his Clironi(|ue de
Riniouski is ])robably the most authentic.
So far as can be j,deaned from all sources,
this is the story of the hermit :

The fair land of Old !•' ranee held no
hearts more in unison than were those of
Toussaint Cartier and his betrothed

Louise when the new \ear of

172.^

dawned. Just turned of manhood, hand-
some in ])erson, versed in knowledj;e of
books and ;ij^ree,ible in manners, be was
the envy of the lads of his n.itive villajfe.
Me bad loujr known the beautiful I.ouise,
and they bad learne<l to love each other
with a love sur])assinj.; the jiower of
words to tell. She was the dauj^bter of
a rich man of hij^b de).jree, who had
pledj^ed her at iin early aj^e to the i)rofli-
jrate son of his wealthy neij.rbbor.
Toussaint was ])oor, and bis poverty be-
came a crime in the sij^ht of the Incre-
lovinjr father, but, as is ever the case,
opi)osition served only to cement the
stronger the affections of the devoted
pair. They were secretly married and
embarked for (jucbec, to seek a home in
the land of which so much bad been
told. The voyage was a pros])erous one.
The ship reached the St. Lawrence and
lay becalmed ofT Riniouski. The day
was fine and young Cartier took a boat to
visit He St. Barnabe. While he was
ashore a fearful tempest arose, and the
vessel and all on board were engulfed
before his eyes. The body of Louise was
soon after washed ashore on the island ,

where Toussaint buried it and made .1
solemn vow to dwell there in sf)lituile for
the remainder of bis days. This vow he
faithfully observed, living a life of deep
religion.^ devotion year after year, until
bis locks were silvered with age. .Ml
who knew him revered him. even the
birds loved him and came to feed out of
his baud ; but his heart was broken, and
be watclu'd year by year pass by. count-
ing each as a step nearer to his reunion
with the one of whose smile through life
he ha<l been so sa<lly deprived, b'orty
odd seasons ])assi'd, and at length one
January morning be was fouiul lying
dead on the floor of his bumble abode.
The lovers were united at last. His re-
mains were buried within the old church
of Riniouski, and to this day his name is
honored as that of a holy man.

Six miles below Rimous'i is b'atber
Point, so well known as a ti-'egraph and
signal station in connection with ocean
steamers, and to it there is a charming
drive along the shore, b'our miles above
the town is the village of Sacre Cieur,
where there is a beautiful and well
sheltered be.icb and admirable o])])ortuni-
ties for boating and sea bathing.

Soon after leaving Riniouski the St.
Lawrence is lost sight of, and the road
makes its way towards the ISIetapedia
Valley. Ste. I'lavie, eighteen miles from
Riniouski, is a place of some importance,
and is the terminus of the well-known
highway, the Kem])t Road, built at .1
heavy exj)ense and so long used for a
mail route between the ujiper and lower
])r<>vinces.

Little Metis station, 90 miles from
Riviere du Lou]), is the stopping place
from which to reach the well known
watering place of Little Metis, situateil
on the shore about six miles from the
railway. It is a resort tluit has been
greatly develo])ed of recent years, and its
popularity is increasing each season.
There are several large hotels, and a num-
ber of wealthy Canadians have made it
their summer home. For ])eoi)le of
moderate means who do not wish to in-
vest in property and build for themselvi- .

anil iiia(k- .1
I s'lliUuk' for
Tliis vow hi'
life of deep
i- year, until
ih' iiKi-, All
Ml, I'veu Uk-

fei'il onl of
broken, and

ss by. count-

) his reunion

through lift

rived, l-orty

1 lenj^th one
found lyinj-
luible abode,
last. His re-
le old church
V his name is
lan.

il-i is I'ather
Lt'f^raph and
)n with ocean
is a charniinj^
ir miles above
' Sac re C(i.'ur,
111 and well
Ible ojiportinii-

ing.

ouski the St.

and the road

e Aletapedia

n miles from

le inijiortauce,

e well-known

1, built at .1

jr used for a

per and lower

) miles from
oppinjf place
well known
letis, situated
liles from the
hat has been

vears, and its

each season.
■Is, and a nuni-

have made it
or peojile 1 'f

it wish to iii-
'or Iheniselve; .

Ibis is a ])art of the lountrv wliire houses
aree.isily to lie liad (nv the wholi'or .1 \y,ivi
of the season, 'i'he farmers are viry ;ic-
comniiiilatiuj.; in this respect, ami in some
instances they will no so far as to give u])
their own homes for the summer, shifting
for lluuisi'lves as best they can, while
strangers occupy their homesteads. Thus,
at a reasonable rent, a party may live
(piite at their ease, having a house fur-
nished with ,ili the essentials for house-
keeping, and may either do their own
cooking or take their meals at an hniil,
as in.i\- suit tln'ir fancy.

Little Metis is situated on the shore of
the St Lawrence, at a point where the
estuary bi'gins to wi<'.en out so that the
o])piisite shore is .a faint line in the dis-
tance and miu-h of the hori/on is as level
as upon the ocean. This gives the jilace
more of the air of a se;i-side re.sort than
many less favored watering ])laces, and
the salt waves rolling in upon the sandy
beach I'onfirm the im])ressiou. The beach
is about four miles long, h ml, smooth,
and safe for bathers. On some ]),nts of
it the surf beats with a sullen roar ; yet
numerous coves, sheltered from the swell,
afford "very security, as well as .absolute
])rivacy, to the bather. Hoats, of all sizes,
from a skiiT to a schooner, are .available
to the visitor, and if one desires to run
across to the other shore he will fnid
safe and swift vessels crossing e\ery day.
If a parly desire to h.-ive a good time .and
feel free and indei)endent, they can
charter a small schooner for a few-
dollars a day, secure a good s.iiling
master, lay in a su])ply f)f jjrovisions
and go where they jilease. The St.
Lawrence is between thirty and forty
miles wide in this part, so there is
l)lenty of room for e.xcursionists at all
times.

The r.rand and Little Metis rivers .are
favorite haunts of the salmon, and trout
are found wherever there is a lake or
brook. The best ])laces to secure the
latter fisli are at Metis Lakes, the nearest
of which is about three miles from the
. centre of the village. I'"urtlier back is a
chain of lakes, all containing ])lenty of

l.irge trout, and all couiparalivelv esa\
of access.

The country in the rear of Metis is a
resort for herds of caribou. Cieese, duck
and sea-fowl are found all along the
shore, while i)artriilge are met with in
every part of the woods.

The scenery is varied and attractive.
One m.ay drive for miles .along the shore
and enjoy the i>auorama .lud sea breeze
until weary. Inland are beautiful vales
and nooks and brooks and charming bits
of landscape. .Ml the farmers have wag-
gons to hire, and drives may be had at a
small expense. One of these is to the
falls, seven miles away. Here a heavy
body of water i)ours over the rocks with a
grandeur which must be seen to beai)]>re-
ciated. liolh Crand and Little Metis
rivers have waterfalls, situated .amid most
enchanting scenes of the forest, lirand
ISIetis falls are most easily reached from
the railway by driving from St. Oitave
station, from which the\- are about three
miles distant. When one is .sojourning at
Little Metis, however, the falls may be
includeil in a carriage drive that has many
other attractions.

Oraiid Metis river and the seigniori.d
rights were purchased by Lord Mount-
Stephen, a number of years ago. .\ large
sum was paid for the jiroperty, and fully
four times as much was .ifterwards ex-
pended in the improvement of it. A ])art
of the improvement was the building of
what is nioilestly termed a fishing lodge.
It cost about 545. '"w mid is the finest
house of its kind in Canada . It is located
on a height overlooking the St. Law-
rence, cUjse to the shore at Cirand Metis.
The building is designe(l with every
regard for comfort and convenience, and
a feature of the interior is the finish of
polished woods brought from the P.icific
coast.

The Crr.'ind Metis falls are approached
by a road which winds along the bank of
the river, high above the water, where
the stream makes its way through a deep
gorge. The ascent of the road is very
steep in places, but even were one to
make the journey on foot the view of the

lalN anil Ihfir Mirroutidiiins woiilil wi-ll
reward liim fur his fxiTliun. 'I'lif lu'i^'lit
(if tlu' fall is alioiit otii' liiiiiilruil fi'i't, ami
the si^(ht i)f the rivir iHUiriiiK over the
roiks into tlu' n<>r),'i' lu'lnw is diic not to
be forj^olleii.

I'nrllu-r alon^ the shore is the Matane,
a small rivi'r, Iml with an aliiimlatice ol

r \r.i.s (>/■ (.A'.i.x/) Mi-yris

salmon and trout. It was by this river,
so loni; aff() as the time of Cham])lain,
that the Indians of the IJaie de Chaleur
reaclu'd the St. Lawrence, by way of the
Restijjouche and Metapedia rivers, mak-
inj,' a portajje fnnii Metapedia I<ake.

There was fishing at Matane before
the tourist came with his rod anil flies.

but it wan purely coiiiniercial in itH iiHjitit.
.•\s loiiK a]i,'o as if)^S Sienr Kiverin es-
tablished a lishery, and thrived until his
wicked partner defrauded him. He foimd
.ill the shore, for a dist.ince of sixtv miles,
very abtindaiit in codl'ish, while wh.iles
were conitnon everywhere from Matane to
Ca])e des Hosiers, a distance of nearlv j,sn
miles. So plentiful were
they near Matane that
at one period, for the
space of three months,
as numy as fifty would
be seen on the surface
at one lime, within less
than two miles from the
shore. .So tame were
they that men could ap-
proach near enough to
hit them with oars.
Sieiir Kiverin, fdled with
visions of wealth, form-
ed a com])any to jirose-
cute whaliii).; — and suc-
ceeded in j<etlinjf swin-
dled.

Leavinj.; the St. Law-
rence, the course of the
traveller is south to the
Metajjcdia Valley. I'ass-
\n)i Tartagiie, the rail-
way, which has kejit
clear of the mountain
ranges by followiu}; the
shore for two hundred
miles, makes a bold push
and crosses the hills at
Malfait Lake. Here the
traveller is nearly 750
feet above the sea, liij^h-
er than he has been since
he left (juebec, a.'!
hi}.;her than he can be
on any other part of the
line. Down the grade the cars go, until
again on the level in the midst of a beauti-
ful valley, where the hills rise on each side
si.vand eight hundred feetfora distance of
manv miles. The French villages are no
longer seen ; the I'rench names are no
longer heard. In the jjlace of the latter
come the titles bestowed bv the Indians

Intiiciiliniial l\iuil<-

ill its asj III.

Riveriii es-

if(l until his

II. Ilo Inlllld

f sixty iiiilfs,
vllik- whak's
nil Mataiii' to
of ni-arly 2^0
ili-miful wiTi'
Alataiie that
iod, for thi-
irc'i' nioiilhs,
t fifty wouhl

the surface
, within Ifss
liles from the
i tanif were
len couhl aj)-
ir enoujjh to

with oars,
in, filk'il with
wealth, fonii-
aiiy to prose-
iig — and sue-
gettiiiK swill -

the St. I,aw-
I'oiirse of the
south to the
Valley. I'ass-
iie, the rail-
1 has kept
le iiiouiitain
ollowiii;; the
wo Iniiidred
s a bold ])iish
the hills at
ie. Here the
nearly 750
he sea, hij;h-
las keen si nee
iiehec, ui'!
11 he can he
er part of the
ears j{o, until
si of akeauti-
e on each side
ra distance of
illagcs are no
laiiies are no
J of the latter
V the Indians

who ollii' Jieopled the l.inil. Some of
these words are ninsical, after yon ),'et
used to iheiii. No doulit they were nin-
sical to .\lL;oni|uiii tar-, when ultend ky
.\l>{oil(liliil lon;.;ues ; lull the IriU' i)idiuiil-
ciatioii of many of Iheiii is lo^t, .iiid as
the Indians had no written laiiKiiajie
tluie is no rule as to how they should ke
spelk'd. Some of tlielll are kelieved to
have had iioetical iiiiMiiiii;.iS, kill there is
a ),'ood deal more faiu'\- tliaii fact in iii.iny
of the iiiter|)retatiolis. It is jlisl as well,
however, lo altai'll .some ]ioetr\ to them,
for thus lliey are in harmony with the
surroimdiiijLis. 'I'hc Met.qiedia N'alley
should ke the poel' . |>aradi>e.

Metapedia Lake
and Valley

Heyond Sayakec lies
I.ake Melajiedia, It
is the noklesl sheil
of inland water seen
alonn the idille. .Ml
lakes have a lieaiily
which a])l)eals lo the
iinaniiiali ve mind,
kill tliis, eiishriniMl
anion,!; the mountains
niiislimpresslhe most
prosaic nature, .\kont
sixteen miles in
len j,4k, and stretching
out in jiarls to Ike
wiillk of live miles,
its ani])learea);i\ es it
a dijfiiity witk wkicli
lo wear its keantv.

Hmkosoined on its traii(|uil waters lie isles
rich in venliire. anion.i; which the ealioe
may iiUiU' amid scenes that wake the
artist's soul to eestacy. The shores are a
fittiiiii frame to so fair a i)icture. Here,
loo, will the s])ortsman never ply his craft
in vain. These clear waters are ihe
lionwof the >almon, and kiii,iis ainoiij,' the
fishes await the angler's pleasure.

Tlie outlet of Ike lake is the famed
MelaiKMlia river. It is sometimes sjielled
with a final "c,"and .some use an " a "
instead of the first "e." It is a mat-
ter of ta.ste, kut it is kij;lily jirokakle

no one of ike tliree is like tlie true Indian
word. Cascajiediae, for instance, is
alleged to ke a corruption of I\ij.;icapi);i;ic,
lkoU};li another aulhoritv says it is from
Kokekak, a wide ])adille, and prokakly
the ori;;inal of .Metapedia is something
even Worse. It is well not to ke too
particul.ir, for this corruption of the
native dialed is (generally an improve-
ment, so far .IS relates to the ease of
|ironmiciatioii ky the loiiKUes of wliite
men. Tlie iiaiiie is commonly said to
deiioti' Musii'.il Waters, and the title
would ke well deserved, kut according lo
Ike laic Dr. Kaiid, an aiilliority, Ike real
word is iSIadaheneak, " roii);lily fiowiiiK."

ir.s. i/'sc .1/,. .\//:j:i/-/:/i/.i /:/!/■/,■

Iiittii olitniat Kotile

wkicli is literally correct. TliroiiKk Ike
j^'iei'ii valley it winds in (graceful curves,
sinj.;in.i,' Ike iiuisic of Ike waters as it runs.
In tliirty miles of its course it lias 222
ra])ids, .ureal and small, now swift and
dee]), now ,u;entlv ri])])liii,!; over lieds of
skininj,' .irravel and jrokleii sand. Here
anil Ikere are the dee])er jiools in wlii^'i
lurk salmon of astouiidinj.^ size, for this is
one of the salmon stre.ims of which every
fisherman has heank I'or mile after
mile the traveller watches the course of
the river, so slraiij,rely ])enl in ky the
mountains on eillier hand, risiiifj; in every

■t

shapi; which iiioiiiilaiiis can assume.
Snmc an.' ahnosl ])i.'i"f<.'cl cones ; others
rise swil'lly into ])recipices ; and others
have such jfentleslojies that one feels that
he woiihl hke to stroll leisurely ujnvard
to tlie Mininiit, hut the lu'ii;lil, as a rule,
is from six huiulred to eight huiv'red
feet. In some places in the Meta])edia
the river, the hij.;li\va/, and the railway
crowd each other for a ])assaji;e, so narrow-
is the valley. .\11 kinds of foliajre, and
all shades of Nature's colors are u])on the
hillsides : and in the autumn, when the
,!.;rand tr.iiisforination of hues takes jilace,
the effect is ma,t,niificent heyond descri])-
tioii . Crrassy hanks make easy the ])ath
of the an.icler, as the lordly fish dart from
the ])ools to seize his hook. Heauty is
everywhere ; here all the charms of
retirement can he found in a Northern
paradise. Switzerland lives in miniature
amid the mountains, while ICntjlaud and
Scotland are around the lakes, streams
and s])rin;;y heather.

Gun and Rod in the A\etapedia

Some moose are still to he traced in the
vicinity of the Metajjcdia valley, i)ut if
one seeks for them he will do l)etter hy
penetratiuii the wilds of the (laspe
reninsula or on the Resli.t(ouche. Cari-
Ixm, however, are still to he found in
abundance in all ])arts of the country,
and the tra])i)er will he at no loss to find
the haunts of the heaver and many other
fin--I)earinfr animals. I'artrid.tjj. are to be
had everywhere, close to the line of rail-
way, and very often can he shot without
leavinj,' the track.

The Metajjedia owes its chief fame to
the sahuon fishint;, which is found every-
where for at least forty miles alon<,f the
course of the stream, to say nothins.; of
the other rivers by which it is joined.
One of these is the Causapscal, and some
rare fishinj.^ is enjoyed at the forks,
wliere the Princess Louise once landed a
forty-])ound salmon. Inirther up, the
Causapscal is rather rough along its
banks, and merits its name, which
means, in the lyiglish tongue, the Rocky
River.

The best fishing in this vicinity is from
tlic middle of June t > the middle of July.
Trout may be caught with ease all
through the season, not only in the riv-
ers, but at such ])laces as .Vnupii au<l
Trout lakes. Tlie Meta])edia trout are
as large as some fish which i)ass for sal-
mon in other countries. Where forty an<l
fifty pound salmon exist, ,se\eu ])ound
trout are oulv in proi)orti()n, as they
should be. M .\ss,iniet(|naghan (a i)lace
more beautiful than its name), at Mc-
Kiiinon lirook, and at Millstream, will
be found particularly good fishing. .\
party of two men has gone out of an
afternoon and remainid until noon the
next day, securing nearly 250 pounds of
trout, each one averaging four pounds in
weight, but many running as high as
seven poiuids.

■\t the junction of the Metapedia river
with the Restigouche is Metapedia sta-
tion and village. Close at hand is the
house of the Restigouche Salmon Club,
the members of which are men to whom
money is no ()1)ject in the carrying out of
their ideas. The clul) is com])osed to a
large extent of wealthy residents of New
York and other cities of the United
States, who are willing to pay well for
the royal sport which this ])art of the
country alTords. .\ calculation of the ex-
])eiises some years ago showed that in
one season jila.S was expended for every
salmon caught, while in anotlier season
the figure was as high as fT,j. This was
not because salmon were scarce, for in
the first named season the number se-
cured was 1,130, and they averaged 22'.
jiounds each, but '.'< was because the club
l)aid out nearly it,v>.oo<), uol including
such incidentals as servants' wages, rail-
way fares and exjjress charges. In the
following season 1,480 salmon were
killed, but the ex])enses that year were
over #5-1, o(H). Taking all the fishing
rivers of this part of Ouebec and of the
north shore of New Hrunswick, the
amoiml ex])ended hy clubs and individ-
ual lessees, season after seas'in, is some-
thing enormous.

It is a rule of the Restigouche vSalmon

4»

iiiily is from
ildk- uf July.
Lh case all
ly in the riv-
Aiiuiui and
ia Iroiil are
pass for sal-
ere forty and
seven jiouiid
.on, as they
;han (a ])lace
mie), at ISIc-
Islreani, will
I fishiii-. A
le out of an
itil noon the
50 ])onnds of
)ur pounds in
; as high as

tapedia river
etapedia sta-
hand is the
■Salmon Cluh,
men to whom
irryinji out of
imposed to a
lents of New
the United
pay well for
l)art of the
in of the ex-
wed that in
ed for every
other season
This was
earce, for in
number se-
vera!Li,ed 22'.
use the clnh
(u includint;
■;' wajj;es, niil-
rijes. In the
dmou were
it year were
1 the lishiiiK
lee and of the
inswick, the
and individ-
is'in. is some-

Cluh thai IK) memlier or hii^ .Ljuest shall
kill more than eiifht salmon in oiu- day's
li^hinj; on waters conlrolled hy the eluh.
'I'iie line has to ln' drawn somewhere,
,uid eiiLjhl is I'oU'-ideri'il a ri'asnnahle
uuniher.

This ])art of the Mt'tapedia is a ])hu'e of
^ini^ular heaulx', and the eharm of the
s'.'iiiery of mountain, valiev and winding;
river, a])peals to all that is artistic in the
sou! of the traveller.

I'roni .AIeta])edia st.ilion the Atlantic
and Lake Sup^-rior r,iilw,iy .^oes down
iuln the (iispe Peninsula a distance
of loi) miles to N(.'w Carlisle, and it
is intended to no as far as (Vaspe
Hasiu. This is one of the wax s hy which
this land of the fisher may lie visited, the
traveller connectin.!:; with the sltamer at
s ime of the ])i)iuls at which it calls oti its
rciLjular trip between Dalhoiisie and
(Vaspe Basin. The other way is to take
the steamer direct from Dalhoiisie. In
comiection with the latter mute a more
extended reference will 1)e made to the

IK-uinsula and its atlrai'tioiis I'or the
tourist.

I,eaviii!4 Metapedia, the Resti.s^ouche
river is seen, and he who looks u])on it
sees one of the most famous of the s^ieat
salmon streams. The Keslij^imche is
I'rossed bv the Intercolonial Railway on a
most substantial bridj,a', over one thous-
and t'eel in len.t;tli. .\ lew miles beyond
this the railway ])asses ihrouj^di its only
overhead tunnel, at Morri:-si'y Rock, on
the side of l'ros])ect Mountain. When
one is at Cani])l>ellton. a trip to the top of
this rock will be well repaid by the mag-
nificent view which may be had of the
beautiful country for miles around.

.\t the Head of the Tide a bright
]>iclure mei'ts the eye. The river is
thickly (lotted with low-lying islands,
rich with meailow lands, their lines of
green I'onlrasting finely with the siber
surface of till' river. In truth this ])art
of the road is a succession of bright pic-
tures — a ]),inoraina. wherein are shown
some of Xaturi-'s f.iirest scenes.

/\ Tin: Mi:r.\i'i:iuA wm.i.ev

hilfiiiilonial Raul,'

iiche Salmon

-13

In Northern New Brunswick

|a MP in-; LI. TON,

on the south side
of the boiindarv
river R e s t i -
j^ouche, is the first
place i II N e \s'
Hrmiswick seen
by the traveller
from Ouehec. It
is a town of some
4,000 peo])le and
is ra]5i(lly j;ro\\in.ij. It is a very con-
venient centre of o])eralioiis for the
fisherman and hunter of .tcame, and
thouifh it has not catered to tourist
travel by the erectii '" a sunnner resort
hotel, it is really a.. tractive jilace in
itself and its surronndin^rs. Thus it has
jrreat possibilities. It is conveniently
situated, because it is a central point on
the line of the Intercolonial, neither too
far south for the ])eoi)le who are above
nor too far north for those who are below.
It is 466 miles from ^lontreal, 303
miles from Quebec, 371 from Halifax,
and 274 from St. John, and it lies
amidst one of the finest rej^ions for
s])ort on the continent. The Resti}j;ouche
and Metajiedia, with their tributaries,
afford only a part of the splendid fishinjr
to be had, while the land to the west and
north contains all manner of }j;ame to en-
tice the sportsman to its forests. Resides,
Cam])belllon is on the estuary of the
Resli^'ouche emptying,' in the famous Haie
de Chaleur, which is of itself worth
cominjj from afar to sail u])on ; and it is
convenient as a cool, but not cold,
smnmer resort, with every facility for
salt-water bathiiiff, .salt-water fishinjj; and
a jfood time {generally. The situation is
beautiful, because Cam])bellton lies at a
point on a broad and beautiful river
which unites with the waters of a bav

that has no rival in Canada. Beautiful.
becau.se the mountains rise near ;ind far,
their cones ]5ointin,t; heavenward with a
jj;randeur not to be described, while
the varyin},^ shades are blended with a
harmony which all may admire, but
which can be ap])reciale(l only by the
artist.

There is fine scenery in whatever
direction one may j^o in this vicinity,
and the principal roads are easy for either
carriage or bicycle. ISIention ha.s already
been made of the view from the to]) of
Morrissey Rock, but a still broader and
grander outlook may be had by climbing
the Sugar Loaf, a mountain some 950 feet
high, close to the town. The view embraces
mountain, valley, river and sea for many
miles and is well worth the somewhat
stee]) climb.

On the north side of the river, op])osite
the town, is Cross Point, the old Oigin-
agich, or Coiled Snake Point, of the
Micmacs, where Woodanki, or Indian
Town, dates its beginning far back among
the centuries. There is now an Indian
reserve of S40 acres, inh.ibited by 120
families, with a ])opulation of about 500
natives. They have a neat village, a
school taught by a native teacher and are
a very orderly peo])le. The mission is in
charge of the Capuchin l'"athers, who
have had a monastery here since 1S94.
There had been a mission here, however,
for more than two centuries before they
took charge, the beginning of the work
dating back to the early days of the
Recollets in Canada.

Both boating and bathing may be en-
joyed to any desired extent in the waters
around Campbellton, and the fame of the
Restigouche salmon and trout sj)eaks as
to the fishing It was a Restigouche sal-
mon that ti])i)ed the scale at fifty-four

• is

]) minis, iiiid inniil)(.rs liavc lii'c-n caiiL;)!!
whii'h wtTL' of till' ri'S])c'i'tal)k' \vfii;lu of
forty poiiinls fai-li. Salmon ll^liiiiii lie-
j;iiis aliout llu- iniddlL' of May, ami all llu-
rivers ahoiiml with lliese ,t;re'at ami ;;lori-
oiis llsli.

AftL'r the river is clear, in the early part
of M.iy, ])leiity of live and seven ]ii>iiml
trout can he cail.^ht in the tide with halt.

.iranls the lakes in the immediate vicinitx
at Cam]ilielllon, the man who seeks for
lidul will never he disap]iointed. 'I'lu-
f.ivorile resorts are Parker I.ake and In
ner I'aiker I.ake, the former of which
has .a wide fame, ll is not a lari^e hoih
of water, as lakes yo in this country, hiil
in its leniith of li.ilfamile or so every
si|nari- yard wduld a])])ear to contain a

I'rom the middle of May milil July they Iront wti^him; from half a ])onnd to two
will take either lly or hait, hut for .;;ood iMHinds. It is of no a\ail, however, to
fly-lisliini;' take the month of lulw Here uo there with fanc\- tackle and a hook

.l/()A'A7.V.S7-. )■ k'lH'A'. .NV-.M A' ( '. M//'/.7-.7./. /( ).\'. \./l.

Intt'i it'l'iiiutl A'lHtfi

are some of the favorite liannts : I'',scn- of assorted Hies, for save at occasional

iiiiuac, 9 miles distant ; Little No\ivelle, times in the month of June the fish will

22; I.ittle Cascapedia, ahout 4,s or 50 hy not he templed to rise to the surface,

steamer; I'arker I.ake, ;, ; Head of Tide, The favorite hait is the aj,dle j,;rassho])-

5 ; and Mission I.ake, 3 miles from Cross ])er, and it never fails to do its work.

I'oinl, on the o])])()site side of the river. One of the many instances of successful

("yuides are easily obtained an<l are reli- fishini; here, within the writer's kuowl-

able men. ed,t;e, is that of three men who in ihrei

The rivers in (|nestion are on the north hours lilled a hu.ne wooden bread tra\

side of the Haie de Chaleur, in the ])rov- and two lari^e lishinii baskets, and wen

iuce of Ouebec, and furllur reference is then obliged to leavt' a <|uautitv of troul

made to them on .another ]ia,L;e. .\s re- bi'caust' ihev had no way of carrying:

•iliati- \ii'iiiily
iho socks for
loinlcd. The
I.akf anil In
nt'i" of which

a hir^c IhkIv
s counlrv. hnl
■ or si> ever}'

to contain a

]K)iin<l to two

however, to

e and a liook

Ihev are jiroiie to hni^'cr Ion,!.',. 'I'he llaie
de Chalcnr and th.e rivers that i'ni])t>-
into it have been tlieir favorite haunts
since a "time wheieof the nieniorv of
man runneth not lo the contrarv." A
few \ears ayo a man killed fourti'i'U

them home. e\en ihoui^h the ro.id to

Camiilii-lhon was all down hill. l'ark(.-r

Lake is siluaU'd on the hai-k of Sn.i^ar

I, oaf Mountain, and the ascent to it is a

irille toilsome, hut an hour or two

around it will rejjay even a climli on

foot. Cood caniijin.ii ground is found hlack duck at one shot, on the Little

here, as indeed is almost invariably the Muni river.

case with the lakes in this i)arl of Ameri- .\s a matter of course, i)artri<l,ue are

ca. The lake is on jirivate jiroperty, hut ]ilenty. and so are siii])e, in their season.

a .gentleman will not lind it diflicnlt to Plover are fouml at times, hut not in

obtain a ])ermil to .satisfy himself as lar!,;e numbers.

to its resources. The station a,!;enl Caribou are very abundant on both

iiiliniial Kiiiili

it occasional
the fish will
the surface.

,dle ),'rassh<i])-
do its work.
;)f successftd

■iter's knowh
who in threi
n bread tra\
ets, and wen

mtit\- of trout
of carrvine

•/■///■.■ /ly/M, Mi>.\.\h\ II

or any of the hotet-kee])ers, can .^ive
him all 11k> information he desires as
to the tishini; in .inv iiart of this coun-
try.

In the autumn and s])rim; the wild
.ueese hover around the short's of the
Resliirouclie in immense Hocks, while all

I niri iifh'Htal /\'on/t'

sides of the '"•'•er. They occasioiuilly
show themselves around the barnyards of
farmers in the smaller settlements. Ivven
the boys .tjo huntin,;.; bi.ic .i^ame in this
])art of the country, and a fine caribou
was shot li\' the twelve-\ear-old son of
Mr, Harharie, the station ai^ent, a short

the manv species of <hu-k known to this distance from Cam])bellton, durini; a re-
latitude are on the win^ by thousands. cent winter.

Nor do tlu' wild fowl look upon the Moose ami dei'r ire the reward ol those

moulh of the Kesti^ouclu.' as a mere way who look for them around the Ri'sti-

statioii in their journey. They linger ,!.;(iuche, and the restrictive laws of a few

there, and where there is o])eii water years a,L;o havi' increased the numbers,

-17

Ik'iir and louji-cervier are also easy j^aiiie
tt) fiiitl.

On the l<esti jouche River

The Reslij^ouchf is part of the northern
honndary of New Mrnnswick. and if its
length of two hundred miles were in a
straight line it would reaeh (|uite across
the province. The Hue is onlv not
straight, hut makes some extraordinarv
bends between its source near Lake
Metis and its mouth at Male de Chaleiir.
The distance between ."Sletapedia and

straight distaiu-es between them. The
occasional ra])idsare not dangerous, and
a canoe voyage over the broad and beau-
tiful stream is an experience which must
be long and pleasantly remembere<l. The
high and thickly wooded hills form stee])
banks in many jilaces, and their rich
verdure is rellected in the c.dm waters as
in a mirror. Looking further into the
clear dejiths the salmon may be seen
moving lazily on the ])ebbled bottom,
waiting only for the teni])ting lly to lure
them to the surface. This is no un-

A AfOA'.\7\(; CATCH (>/■ h'KST/COriJII-: S.M.MO.X

I iitt'i colonial Kotttt'

Patapediac, for instance, is 37 miles by
the river, but only 21 miles in a direct
line. It is but six and a half miles from
Up.salquitch to Brandy lirook by land,
but it is not less than thirteen miles by
the river. Kven more remarkable is the
bend at Cross Point, a few miles further
lip, where a walk of a few hundred feet
across a stri]) of land will save a journey
of about a mile by water. Yet the river
is not really crooked ; it sim])ly has

common sight on any part of the Resli-
gouche. Ivven at the railway bridge as
many as a hundred salmon have l)een
seen swimming slowly around at one
lime, and it is probable that more or less
of them could be seen almost any day in
the season were the train to stoj) so thai
the passengers could have a look at the
water. It is no idle boast to say that tin-
Resligouche is the finest sahnou river in
the world.

abrujit bends, with long stretches of .Some may wonder at the Indians will

thuiii. The
tij^croiis, iind
;i(l ami lieail-
■ which imisl
.■iuhere<l. The
lis form steej)
1(1 llieir rii-h
ilm waters as
Lher into the
may be seen
hied boUom,
Djj; fly to lure
is is no iin-

''rt'olonial Koiiti'

of the Resli-
way briil,!<e as
ion have been
around at cm-
,t more or less
:)st any day in
.() stop so thai

a look at tin-
lo say that tlu-
iliiiou river in

L' Indians with

their matter-of-fact habits of iioinencla-
ture did not bestow the title of River of
Kish on this noble stream. That thev
failed to ilo so may he accounted for on
two ^'rounds : I'irst, that stilmon were
then even more abundant in all the rivers
than they are to-day ; and next, because
they had another anil more significant
titl.'. Til.' word "Restij,'ouche," which is
a corru])tion of "I,ust-a-j;ooch," has had
various interpretations ^(iven it. Many
have believed that it signifies "river tliat
divides like a hand," but the late Sam
Suke was of the opinion that those wonls
were the translation of "Upsalquitch."
Others have asserted, upon some un-
named authority, that Restigouche is
"Broad River," but the old missionary
chronicles give the meaning as "River of
the Long War." This war is said to
have had its origin in a (juarrel between
two boys over the possession of a white
scpiirrel. The misunderstanding lasted
forty years, bv which time, ])resumably,
the squirrel had ceased to be of commer-
cial value to either of the claimants.

The aboriginal designation of all this
region was I'ajiechigunach, the place of
sjjring amusements, which doubtless had
reference to some great annual pow-wow
in the times of peace. It is the ]>lace of
the white man's summer sport to-day.

The lieail waters of the river lie near
Lake Metis in one direction and the trib-
utaries of the St. John in another, and
for much of its length it flows through a
dense wilderness as yet undesecrated by-
man. The country drained by it and its
tribntaries includes more than two thous-
and sf(uare miles in Quebec and New
Hrunswick, and is a land of mountains
and valleys— the former rising grandly
two thousand feet towards the clouds ;
the latter having forests in which soli-
tude and silence reign. In these regions
there are lakes where the beaver has no
one to molest nor make it afraid ; there
are gorges whose rocks have never echoed
the re])ort of a gun ; there are miles upon
miles which have never been explored,
and where the creatures of the forest
roam as freelv as thev did a hundred

yeiirs ago. One can retire into the heart
of New Hrunswick and reach rivers
which lead to all points, such as Tobicpie
and St. John, Nepisiguit, Miramichi and
others of lesser note, as well as the rivers
which run to the St. Lawrence.

The estuary of the Restigoiiche is a
beautiful sheet of water, more like a lake
than the outlet of a river. It extends
from Dalhousie to where the tide iind the
fresh water meet, eight miles below
Metapedia, and in some places is three
miles wide. Ascending the river the first
place of interest is the site of I'elit
Rochelle, three miles above Point Hourdo,
destroyed by the Hriti.sh, under Captain
Byron, in July, 1760. Byron, with a fleet
of five vessels, attacked four French
vessels which hod run up the stream to
this point. After five hours of fierce
combat, two of the French frigates were
sunk. The remaining two sought shelter
under the stone battery at Indian
Village, but in doing so one of them, Le
Marquis de Marloize, went ashore, leav-
ing Le Bienfaisant at fearful odds against
the five ve.ssels of the Knglish. The
captain was ordered to haul down his
flag, but instead of obeying he went
below, applied a light to the maga/.ine
and blew his vessel to atoms. Byron
then went ashore with his men and
burned the villages at Bourdo and Petit
Rochelle, and only the ruins of what was
then a jjlace with a population of ym
families are to be seen at the present day.

Passing the mouth of the Meta lia,
a distance of seven miles brings thi oy-
ageur to the mouth of the Upsalqiiich,
the "river that divides like a hand."
Here is seen Scjuaditch, or the Squaw
Cap, a mountain 2,000 feet in height,
and if one cares to ascend to Up.salquitch
Lake he will find another conical ca])
which rises to the height of 2,186 feet.
Should he continue his journey beyond
the lake, he will reach the head waters
of the Ne])isiguit, by which he can reach
Bale de Chaleur at Bathurst, or the head
waters of the Tobique, by which he can
descend the St. John to the Bay of
Fundv.

Ahoul Iwc'tily-iiiMe miles above the
I'psahiuilcli is Ihe I'aiapediac, by which
the Metis and other rivers cinplyinji into
the I.ower St. I<a\vrence may be reached.
Then comes the Ouata\vaniked).j\vick,
and a trip of about six miles up its
waters will brinj,' the anj^der to a spot
famous for seven and eight pounds sea
trout. This river leads to the head waters
of the Riinouski.

By following the Restigouche into the
Wagansis, a portage of about three miles
will bring one to the Grand River, a
tributary of the St. John. The Temis-
couata and S(iuatook Lakes may also be
reached — indeed, the by-paths in the
wilderness are innumerable, for streams
run in all directions. .Ml of any size are
safe for canoe navigation, even with
ladies in the party, and all abound with
the finest of fish.

Dalhousie

One of the fairest sjjots on the line of
the Intercolonial is found at the town of
Dalhousie. Ivven when this i)lace was
not connected with the railway it at-
tracted large numbers of visitors, and
now that it is so ea.sy of access it is one
of the most popular of snunner resorts.
Its location at the mouth of the Resti-
gouche, where the glorious Haie de Cha-
leur begins, would in any event uiake
the site one of uuusual beautj^ but nature
has done nuuh for Dalhousie in giving
it hills and heights which connnand a
prospect of sea and land as far as the
eve cau reach. .Ml varieties of scenery
may here be found, from the gently mur-
uiuring groves to the rugged rocks of
most fantastic form which in places skirt
the shore. The harbor, with a depth of
more than ten fathoms, and in places
from fifteen to twenty fathoms, is an ex-
cellent one for all purposes. Protected
by a natural breakwater of islands, it is
perfectly safe for all kinds of boating,
and is large enough to afford an abun-
dance of room for recreation. Beyond it
are the broad river Restigouche and the
Baie de Chaleur. Fine beaches and

water of moderate temperature tempt the
bather. The sheltereil jxisitioii of the
place gives it a freedom from raw winds,
and fog, that terror of so many tourists,
is never known around this shore. It is
not only a spot where the strong anil
healthy may enjoy themselves, but it is
one where the weak may become strong,
and the invalid take a new lease of life.

The views in the vicinity are such as to
charm every lover of the beautiful. To
the north the hay at the mouth of the
Restigouche is only about six miles wide
so that Point Maguasha and the hills on
the Gaspe side are seen to advantage.
Nearer at hand, the varying shades of
the summer foliage are seen in striking
contrast with the bright red rock which
here and there stands out in bold relief
upon the hillside. To the southward aiul
westward La Baie de Chaleur widens to
the magnificent proportions which entitle
it to the nauie of a sea, while as far as
the eye can reach along its southern
shore are seen the white houses and the
tiipering spires of the distant villages.

The visitor to Dalhousie need never
lack for recreation, apart from the sail-
iug, bathing and fishing. There is a fine
beach for long walks, an<l there are good
roails for carriage or cycle. They lead to
many pleasant places, and one of these
is Mount Dalhousie. From this moun-
tain there is a fine view of the country,
but notably attractive is that which em-
braces Campbellton aud the Restigouche
river.

Boats and boatmen can be had at the
beaih at all limes, and excursions may
be made to various parts of the bay at a
moderate cost. The favorite trips are to
Carleton ;ind Maguasha, on the (iaspe
side, and Ivel River and Charlo, on the
New Brunswick shore.

Dalhousie has several hotels which are
in favor with the travelling public. It is
the shiretown of Restigouche county, has
a population of about 2,700 and does a
large business in the shipment of lumber
by water to ports on the other side of the
ocean.

tmimkkti

lire Iciiipl the
isilioii of the
nil raw winds,
iiiiiiiy tourists,
■i shore. It is
le strong and
•Ives, but it is
leconie stronj;,
V lease of life,
are such as to
beautiful. To
mouth of the
six miles wide
lid the hills on
to advantage,
iiig shades of
!en in striking
ed rock which
in bold relief
southward and
ileur widens to
IS which entitle
while as far as
r its southern
louses and the
lilt villages,
sie need never
from the sail-
There is a fine
there are good
They lead to
d one of these
oiii this moun-
)f the country,
that which em-
he Restigouche

1 be had at the

xcursions may

of the bay at a

irite trips are to

on the (laspe

Charlo, on the

otels which are
ig public. It is
iche county, has
700 and does a
incut of lumber
illicr side of the

s
■2

Alon^ the Gaspc Shore

Asriv ivii-

iiisiila has
bet'ii (1 c -
scrihfil as
a h II }i f
f i n )i e r ,
/-"-A.. -O^K^^sii^r reacliinjj;

out from
the CO n-
t i 11 e II t

into the (iiilf of St. Lawrence. The
jjroportioiis of length and hreadth, how-
ever, are rather those of a thumb,
and a thumb that has been hit by a
hammer. In straighl-away measure-
ment, it has a lenj^th of about 120 miles
and a breadth of some 90 miles in the
widest ])art. This means an area of more
than 10,000 scuiaie miles, all of which is
included in the two counties of Honaven-
ture and (laspe. If this larj^e territory
were eejually divided amoiijr the 45,o,)o
inhabitants, or rather, amon<j the 7,0 )o
families, each would have a farm of very
respectable size. .\s it is, farminj; is only
a secondary consideration with the jieo-
ple. This is not for the want of good
land. Apart from the thousands of miles
of untillable mountain and forest, there
is an abundaii'.'e of rich soil which needs
but cultivation to prove its fertility, and
which may be had on easy conditions.
The government of Quebec has nearly a
million of .'teres which await the settler
on this peninsula, much of it at the price
of twenty cents an acre, while the best is
only fifty cents an acre.

That the land does not attract the peo-
ple is due to the surpassing wealth of the
waters. The Gas])e fisheries are the rich-
est in the world. This jiart of .\nierica is
pre-eminently the region of fish, and was
famed as .such even before Columbus dis-
covered what he believed to be a new

continent. It was the fishing ground of
the Norseman at least eight hundred
years ago, and probably of the Masques
centuries before lli.it. This is a rcason-
id)le belief, even though the fishery sta-
tistics for that jieriodare not available.

The land of Gasjie is out of the route
of general travel, and einiihatically out
of the rut. To the tourist who is not in-
formed on the subject, the country has
not a promising look on the face of the
map. The greater ])art of it seems to
consist of mountains, the settlements
look to be merely a fringe around the
shore, and the interior is unmarked by
any evidence of human habitation. In
this interior, overall area of hundreds of
miles, there are neither towns or vil-
lages ; there are no railways ; there are
not even highways. It is this unoccupied
territory that is the land of the hunter.
The attraction for the summer tourist is
around the shores.

There are several ways of making the
tour of the shores of Oaspe. Mention has
been made of the .\tlaiitic and Lake
Superior railway from ]Metai)edia. If
one is not pressed for time, a delightful
carriage journey may be made on the
highway, starting from Cross I'oint, op-
])osite Campbellton, and continuing as
far as may be desired. The excursion
may be continued all around tiasjx;
county to Cape Cliatte, on the St. Law-
rence, over a highway which is close to
the sea for the greater part of the dis-
tance of 2S0 miles. l"or most of this <lis-
tance the road is level and the journey is
made with ease. l''rom Cape Cliatte one
can push forward to Metis and connect
with the Intercolonial Railway.

The usual way of visiting the penin-
sula is to take the steamer which leaves
Dalhousie twice a week during the se:i-

iii^ j^roiiiid of
.■if^lil hundred
f Ihe I!as(jiies
s is a reason-
le fishery sta-
[)l available.
I of the route
phalically out
who is not in-
le country has
le face of the
)f it seems to
le settlements
i^e around thi'

unmarked by
liabilation. In
of hundreils of

towns or vil-
•ays ; there are
his inioccupied
of the hunter,
inier tourist is

of making the
;. Mention h;is
iitic and Lake
Melape(Ua. If
le, a deligbtfid
made on the
:rt)ss I'oint, op-
continuing as
The excursion
around Gaspe
n the St. Lau-
nch is close lo
lart of the dis-
nost of this dis-
l the journeN is
!ipe Cliatte one
tis and connect
ilway.

ting the penin-
er which leaves
during the sen-

son of navigation. Tliis steamer calls In all but a few districts, and these are

, regularly at the more iiiiiiortant points found in the first ])art of the journey,

4 along the coast, and at any others when fishing is the great iudii.stry of the

there are passengers or freight to be ])eo])le.

taken aboanl or put ashore. The trip is Truly, a ])leasaiil journey it is along

a delightful one, and the numerous ports this main street of the liig jjeiiinsula, On

of call jiermit of the traveller going the one hand is the sea, as calm at this

ashore at this or that jjlace, continuing sea.son as it can be turbulent when lashed

the journev by laud as far as he ])leases, by the gales of spring and autumn. On

and resuming the steamer route when it its smooth surface, far and near, is an

may suit his convenience. There are ever-changing panorama, in which all

TUF. ]VR.\I.TH or THE HWTEh'S Ol- CASI'E

hi If) colon ni! h'oiili'

parts of the shore where it is a pleasure,

if not a luxury, for the worn and weary

; ])i]grim from the busy world to travel for

S mile after mile in sight of the summer

; sea. I'rom Cross I'oint to Tort Daniel,

for instance, the highway is like one long

village street. The settlement is jiracti-

cally continuous, a church every ten miles

■ or so telling of the difeient i)arishes.

i The poi)ulation is chiellv Roman Catholic

:;g and the pre\ailing language is French.

kinds of craft, from the tiny boat to the
stately shij) and ocean steamer, havo
their ])lace. The waters are a source of
delight to the eye, while cool breezes
temper the heat of the midsummer sun.
On the other hand rise the eternal hills,
mountains overt()])ping mountains, .some
of them, far in the interior, rising to a
height of 4.01K) feet, clad in the darker
hues of ancient forest growth. There are
])laces where the mountains leave but a

narrow strij) iK'twcfii llii'ir l)aso ami the
sea, wliile iiaimi llity art- so far off that
the sunsliiin" on their foliage hU-iids it in
harmony with the roi'ky I'lilTs that hen-
ami there stand onl a>,Minst the sky.

FoUowinjj the shore from Cross Point,
the first phiee of note is Xonvelle, at the
head of tlie Uaie de Chak-nr anil jnst onl-
side of Restiji;oni-he Hay, witli a river
famed for the size and aljuiidaiice of its
trout. The Nouvelle Hasin ojkmis into
Tracadifjache Hay. " 'IVaeadij^ache " is
understood to mean I.ittle Tracadie, and
" Traoadie " denotes a camjiin^j j^round.
The latter name will he met with a;,'ain
in each of the maritime provinces.

Carleton, reached by rail, steamer or
highway, is a villa(.{e which is crowded
between the mountains and the sea for a
distance of several miles, varyinjf in
width from considerably less than a mile
up to a mile and a half. I'roni the rear
of the farms rises a chain of hills more
than i,Soo feet in altitude, and when one
has scaled these heijjlUs he will find liills
beyond hills and mountains beyond
mountains, f^r awa/ into the interior.
The ])eople here are not fishermen, but
farmers, and it is in connection with
farmiiifr that most of the fishiiijr is done
in this part of the country. Herrinj; are
used by the ton to fertilize the jiotato
fields, thousands of barrels of them beinj,'
scattered over the land and plouj^hed
in, season after season. The last re-
turns put the {XJtato crop of Carleton
at about 50,000 bu.';)iels, which makes
an average of a third of a thousand
bushels to each of the J50 families in the
parish.

Carleton was settled by the I'rench,
who sought a refuge here after the dis-
persion of their race in Acadia. Thej'
came to stay, and the fact that in a pop-
ulation of 1,078 the census gives only
four who are not Prencli-Canadians
would imply that there is little danger of
the Acadian being crowded out in the
immediate future.

During the summer months, however,
there is an increase in the Knglish popu-
lation, and one of a very desirable kind.

.\ number of residents of < )tlawa, Mont-
real and yuebec, spend their vacations
here, and tasteful cottages have been
built along the shore. .\ prominent Ot-
tawa physician sends patients here to get
the bi'uefit of air which is not so strong
as that further <lown the coast, while the
bathing is all that can be desired. The
beach is excellent and the water wanner
than where there is a wider stretch of
sea. Along these shores are occasional
finds of "das])!; pebbles," in the form of
jas])ers and agates.

.Xdjoining the towushij) of Carleton is
Maria, a (|uiet i)lace where farming is the
chief occupation A few miles beyond
the village is the mouth of the Cirand
Cascapedia, where there is an Imlian
settlement. I'urther on and em])lying
into the same bay is the Little Casca-
pedia. These are famous salmon
streams, aiul the former especially has a
truly royal reputation. Heing the river
of the Ciovernor-C.eneral of Canada, roy-
alty itself has delighted to lure the
kingly fish from the cool, clear ])ools
that are fouml along its banks.

New Richmond, at the head of Casca-
l)edia Hay, is midway between Carleton
and New Carlisle. It has a poi)ulation of
abont 2,no(), and is a port of call for the
(las])<5 steamers. There is also a daily
train service of the Atlantic and Lake
Superior railway. Theie is much of
quiet beauty to attract the tourist here,
and an abundance of drives on good roads
amid fine scenery. The bathing is excel-
lent, and it is needless to say that there is
good boating here, as there is in all jiarts
of the country. Here one is in the heart
of the great salmon fishing district, and,
while the rivers as a rule are leased, yet
visitors may easily obtain permission to
fish for trout in the latter jiart of the
.season. Sea trout are also found at the
mouths of the rivers, ami fishing for them
is free. The various kinds of salt water
fish that abound in this jiart of Canada
may be caught in the bay and harbor,
(iooil shooting for wild fowl may be had
in the spring and autumn. Partridge
abound in the woods, and this is a con-

tu.

-''^■

lillawa, Moiit-
leir vacations
■s have been
jioniitieiit t)t-
llts here to net
not so strong;
)ast, while the
desired. The
water wanner
ler stretch of
are occasional
in the form of

)f Carlelon is
farniin)f is the

miles hevond
of the (irand
is an Indian
md emplyinn

Kittle Casca-
lums Hulinon
pecially has a
v\n^ the river
f Canada, roy-

to hire the

I, clear jmioIs
nks.

lead of Casca-
vveeii Carleton
I ]K)j)lilation of
of call for the
is also a daily
itic and Lake
; is iiiiich of
; tourist here,
, on ).;ood roads
thiiij; is excel-
ly that there is
L- is in all parts

is ill the heart
ir district, and,
ire leased, yet

permission to
;r part of the
) found at the
shiiig for them
i of salt water
)art of Canada
y and harbor.
•1 may be had

II . Partridfje
this is a con-

venient base of operations for moose and
caribou shootinj,'. No less tliiin five of the
('i()vernors-(ieiieral of Canada have made
New Kichmoiid their summer home iii-
chidiii)^ the Mappiis of I.oriie, and his
consort the I'rinces.s I.ouise, Lord Laiis-
downe ,111(1 Lord Sl.inley, the two latter
buildiii).; for themselves summer cottaj,'es.
Even since the (Vrand Cascapcdia has
ceased to be the reserved river of the
(ioveriiors-(ieiieral, I.ord Aberdeen has
spent two summers at New Richmoiiil,
and the Ivarl of Miiito has also spent a
portion uf one siiminer there. It will be
found a very i)leasiiij{ siiminer resort for
those in search of rest and quiet.

Some Salmon Streams

The Grand Casca])edia leads all the
rivers of this part of Can.'ida in the mat-
ter of fly-fisliin).( for salmon. The re-
cords run to fish of over fifty pounds in
weij^ht. The whole of the Casca])eilia
was formerly reserved for the Governor-
Geiieral, but portions of it are now under
lease.

AmoiiK the Kalnion rivers of note be-
tween the Resti).foiiche and Gaspe Basin
are the Little Casciijiedia, Honaventure,
Grand iiiid Little I'jibos, Grand River,
St. John, York and Dartmouth, but these
by no means exhaust the list. The Grand
River may be taken as a sami>le stream,
having a dozen pools within sixteen
miles of the mouth. It is not a 1)ij^ river,
as might be inferred from the name, bu.
it is a fine one, abounding in striki'ig
scenery, and with crystal waters fed by
springs which make the stream of alinosl.
icy coolness, even in the hottest days of
summer.

Before the Intercolonial Railway made
these rivers easily accessible to the
lovers of sport, fishing leases could
be secured at figures that would now
seem ridiculous. Twenty dollars was
then considered a fair price for a stream
that now costs ;jt2,ocx) or more, and ariv^r
to lease at the latter figure need not be
an e.\traordinary one. The Bonaventure
is an instance of such an advance in val-
ue, but it is a fine stream for sport. The

salmon taken on it li.ive an average
weight of eightein or twi'nt\- ]ioiiii<ls. ;\s
many as sixt\ -three such lisli have been
counted lying ami lurking in a pool and
refusing to give a satisfai'tory account of
themselves. This lia])])eiied in August,
when the water v.as low ami warm, and
when the fish not only declined to rise to
the fly but scarcely deigned to move
when stirred iij) with the end of a rod.

New Carlisle

The upper jiart of the Baie de Chalenr
has a width often miles or so at Carleton,
but widens out to nearly double that dis-
tance at Cascaj)edia Bay ami has a rapid
widening near I'oint Bonaventure, due to
the ca})acious Nejiisigiiit Bay, on the New
Brunswick side, h'or the first hundred
miles of the triji by water, until after the
steamer gels out of the bay ami into the
Gulf, the .shores of New Brunswick are in
sight to the southward, and so, too, are
they in view when one is at the villages
along the Gasjie coast. The prospect of
the broad and beautiful bay, with the
land in the distance, is most entrancing,
and at no time is it more so than when,
at early morning or just before sunset,
one has climbed the mountain height and
has revealed to him all the glories of the
broad vista before him. Of the Baie de
Chaleur itself, more is told elsewhere in
these jjages, and reference is made to the
mysterious phantom light. The people
along this shore have seen the light, as
have their New Brunswick neighbors,
ijoth in .summer and winter, and are
equalh- at a loss to explain w'hat it is or
why it should be.

New Carlisle is the sliiretowii of Bona-
venture county and has a population of
about 8oo. Here the English and .Scotch
are in the majority, for the jjlace was
settled bj- United Empire Loyalists at the
close of the American Revolution, liberal
grants being made to them. .\t that
time Ga.spd was a province of itself and
had its own lieutenant-governor, who re-
sided a part of the time at New Carlisle
and the remainder at Perce ai-d Gasp^
Basin.

^''%

Tlu'iT is iiiiu'li that is iitliai'tivi- about
New Cailisli'. Till' town issituati'il ahotit
half way hi-lwi'i'ii Ihi' ('iiaiid lioiiavriituri'
and Nouvclli- riviTs, and either of these
fisliinj,' streams is reaehed by a drive of
ten niik's. l"or a short drive, the road to
I'aspebiac, lliree miles distant, is all that
couhl I.e desired, iilaek I.ake, a mile
iind a half Iwiek of the town, is an atlmir-
ahle ])ieiiio );ronnd.

The l)eai'h at New Carlisle is admirably
ada]>ted to the retiuiremeiits of bathers.
It is smooth, free from obstructions, and
its attractiveness is adde<l to by a line
growth of woods which skirts the shore

one of more than common importance in
this ])art of the conntrx . .\s the steamer
draws near, the most conspicuous objects
are two immense storehouses, i)ainted
white with red trimmings, and a number
of smaller buildiuKS showiuK the like
colors. On the fronts of the laij^e build
ui^s, res])ectively, are merely the initials
" It. II." .md "C. R. C." Ihief as are
these inscriptions, they mean a ^reat deal
in the past and ])reseul of the history of
Claspcf" I'eniiisiua. The " C. K. C." has
been a power in the country for more
than a hundred years. Its beniunim.'.
indeed, dales back to the time when the

(>\ ■////■: /lo.x.i I f-.y/iA'/-: av/va'

/nfi'nitlt'iiitil f\\)uff

'il '1

and alTords a j^rati'ful shatle from the
summer sun.

(iood boani can be obtained in this
vicinity at very ri'asonable rates, and
teams are always to be had for excursions
into the surroumlinj^ country.

New Carlisle, as before mentioned, is
the present eastern terminus of the
Atlantic an<l I.ake vSuperior railway. .\
part of the com]iany's ])lau is a steamer
bctwev '■ '.'.lis point and Ciaspe Hasin.

Where Codfish is King

Just below New Carlisk', three miles
distant, is I'aspebiac, a busy ])lace and

I"!iinlish-s])e.'ikin); i)ei)])le on Ibis contin-
ent, from the (iulf of Mexico to Hudson
Iia\', were loyal subjei'ts of Kin)^ Cii'orm'
the Thinl, in the earlier and h.i])piei
years of his rei).fn. It was in 176b thai
Charles Robin, the ft)under of the house,
left his native island of Jersey in the brij,'
" Sea I'lower," crossed the .\tlautic and
explored the C.ulf of St. I.awrenci' to
find a suitable ])lace for the pursuit of
the fishing trade. lie found the (iuesl
eodlishilij; waters on the face of the
j^lobe, and he saw before him a ma^ni-
ticeul future. Casting anchor at I'aspe-
biac, he be),'an a most important era in

azi:

>&.

*u^

iiii|i(>rtiiiia' III

ks till' sllMtlllT

ii'iiolis ohjcits
iiisos, |)iiiiiti'(l
mil a niitiilii'i'
viiiK Uic liki-
u liirj^f ))iiil(l
•t\' till- initials
liiii'f as ail'
111 a j^ival ileal
llL' llisloiy of
:. K. C." has
try fur iiuiri;
Is hfj^iiiiiiiii.'.
iiiic when 111!.'

oltniidt h'liulf

this ronlin-
■o til I Iiidsoii
Kiii)^ ( "ii'oif^r
ami happii'i
in 1766 that

1)1' till- llOllSl',

y in llu' lirij;
Atlantii' ami
l.awiemi.' to
u' pnisiiil of
111 the liiH'st
lair III' the
ill! a inaf;iii'
i|- at l'as|R'-
iitatit i>ia ill

the histiii of the ciiuntiy. I'liitnm-
atlfiiili'il his viiitnii's ami I'ur twclvf
vcars he priis]icn'il even lieMHiil his early
ilieimis. Then came ilisastiT. I'ln^laml
anil her eolonies were al war with eaeh
iitlier, anil Ihonnh it is ilnnhlfiil if the
(ishers of CiasiH' tunk niiuli interest in
the strii);j;le, they were eri' loiij^ Indiij^hl
til a painful ri'ali/atiiin of the fact that
tlieri' was a war. Two privateers, niaiineil
liy New l'aij,flainl sailors, saili'il inln the
Itaie lie (."hali'iir, maile their way to I'as-
pehiai- ami ])liinilereil tlu' stori'S of all
that I'dulil lie eonveiiii'iitly taken away.
'I'liey al.si) inaile ]iri/.es of Mr. Roliin's
two lishin^r vi'S.sels ami saileil away to the
!<estij;oiiehe in ipiesl of lU'w laurels. Il
was linl a small satisfaetion to the iles-
])oik'(l Ji'iseyman that liiith priv.ileers
ami ])ri/es were soon after taken liy
Hrilish war vessels, for the salvage he
was reipiiieil to ]iay so erippleil his o]ier,i-
tions thai he relnrneil to his native
islaml. .Vfter the jieaee, in ij.S,^, he re-
tnrneil to the lishiii).; ).;ronnils, ami siiiee
then the name ol Cha'les Uoliiii iS: Co.,
or " C. U. C," :is il is usn.tlly railed, has
heeii toCiasiie iniu'li as the name of the
lliiilson May Company was, in its day, to
the far mnth land. The house of
I.eHoiitillier lirothers, " H.l!.," eame al a
later dale, and these two eoneeriis have
liraelieallv ruled the lishinn trade of the
entire •.•oast There are, indeed, other
lisliiiii.; estahlishmenls, here and tlii'ii-,
lint they are not many in nmiiln'r, and
the operations ai\' on a very iiiiieh smaller
se.ile

The " C. K. C." has owed its sneeess,
(ilst, III the wonderfnl lislleiies of these
waters, and next, to its strict and unvary-
ing Imsimss niethoils. Its agents and
clerks are from over the sea, and in
alinosl every instance from the small hut
closel\ peopled isliind of Jersey. I'ntila
lew years a).;o, it was ,111 illl|)erative rule
that iiol one of tliesi' eillplo\es could
have a wife in this part of the woijd.
When this rule was lirokeii, as was soiue-
tinies the case, " C. K. C." Ii.iil no fnr-
tlu'f lleedof tllentTeilder'sservices. There
weie married men aiiionv; the aj^eiits and

clerks, il is true, hut their wives ,iiid
families wi'ic in Jersey, to he visited at
intervals of alioiil every two \ears. rile
time fur such vacation was in the winter,
the dull season, the ships leaviii).; earlv in
Deceinlier, (lyinn swiftly liefore the iiortll-
Wiird and westerl\ winds, and reacliiiin
Jersey in time for Christmas nreetiiij;s-

While "C. U. C." and " It. It." are
found all aloii>4 tlu- coast, and imtalilv at
I'l'ree, their chief stores are at Pasjiehiac,
oil a curious liar which is part of a tri-
angle, enclosing a liariachnis and reacli-
iii).; out from the maiiiland, a mile in
leni;lli and several hundred feel in
hreadlh. The exteriors of the ^real
slrnclnres >;ive token of the immense
hnsiiiess done, lint wlii'ii one views the
interiors the astonishmeiil at the extent
and eoni|ili'leiiess of the oiu'iatiiiiis is in-
creased tenfold. I'roni here v;o (isli to
manv a foreign laud, over the sea to the
south and to the I'ast. (ireat, too, is the
ex]iort of that valualile product of the
cod, the oil. Much, also, in the way of
iiU'rchaiidise, comes from over the sea to
('•aspe. The stores of these hi); concerns
.seem to have everything that can lie de-
sired, not only in such necessaries as
food and raiment, hut in what are luxuries
in the lives of the lisher folk. There
was a time when everything w.-is imported
from across the ocean, hut in these ilays
the concerns liny Canadian |iroducts when
they can do so to advantagi', lliiinj;li
much still comes fioiii the Itrilish markets.

The original Charles Koliiii returned to
Jersey, a millionaire, in i.Sn.;, leaving the
control of the liusiness to his lU'pliews, to
lie i-oiiducted on a strict, nnvarviii).; cmle
of laws. In this vvav the opeiatiniis h.ive
lieeii carried on vear afler vi'ar, ev«'ii
though those who are it'ally " C. R. C "
to-day have their haliitalion thons.iinls of
miles lieyoiid the sea. ICverythiiij.; is
doiii' liy rit;iil svslem, and the most
luimile details, if within the rules, are as
faithfullv .iilhered In as are the most
essential ie),;iil.itioiis.

Now and aj,'ain one reads of deslilntion,
and even famine, ainmi); the lislurnu'ti of
New foumlland oi- the peo]ile of I.ahrador.

No such calainity ever comes to Gaspe,
There are poor peo])le here, as there are
everywhere, and some of them are very
poor, but the fislierman who brings his
catch to the great concerns during the
summer and autunm has no fear of hunger
and want in the long, cold winter. He
will be provided for, and though he may
find himself in debt in the spring, he
knows that there are more fish in the sea
for him, if he lives ; if he die, what

cerns. While everything around rasjje-
biac tells of business, there is also, apait
from the business, much that appeals to
the eye by its beauty.

Reference has been made to the fisheries
of Gaspe as being the finest in the world.
This is no mere boast. Much has been
heard of Newfoundland, but Gasp^ places
itself ahead of even that world-renowned
home of the cod. As to quality, the fish
caught in this portion of the (^lUlf have

. lill:

SPUTT/XG con l.\ CASPE

Intercolonial Roiilf

matter ? He will have had a living, as
his father and grandfather had before
him. In this way the toilers of the sea
are apt to become fatalists.

Paspebiac has more than the great
stores, warehouses and packing establish-
ments. Back from the shore, surrounded
by well kept grounds, are dwellings
characterized by ta.ste, and even elegance,
m their appearance, where reside tho.se
who are employes of the gigantic con-

probably no equals. Here is their great
feeding ])lace. Here they find the smell,
the capelin and the young fry of the va.>-l
schools of herring which make the Gulf
and its bays their spawning ground. The
cod taken in these waters in the summt-T
and autumn are, therefore, in the best
contlilion, the fatness of their livers
giving abiuidant evidence of their vigor.
The value of the fisheries of Gaspd m:iy
be put at about a million dollars a year.

Hi?.

ouiul raspe-
s also, apait
t appe-.ils to

) the fisheries
ill the world,
ch has been
Gaspd places
rld-renowned
ility, the fish
le (iulf have

rcolonial Roii/i'

is their ^re^it
find the smell,
fry of the vast
iiake the Gulf

ground. The
ill the suiiinur
re, in the best
if their livers
of their vigor.
s of Gaspe may
dollars a vear.

In some j'ears it is much more, and in the
county of Gas])^ alone, including the
Magdalen Islands, there are .seasons when
the value is considerably over three-
quarters of a million. In the two counties
about a score of vessels and 4,5ocj boats
are employed in the work and they are
manned by some S.ooo men, exclusive of
those employed on the shore. The nets
and seines used, if fastened one to the
other in a single line, would reach arouiul
the coast of the Ga.spe I'eniusula so as to
leave no opening between the mouth of
Restigouche Bay and Cape Cliatte, at the
boundary of tiaspe county on the St.
I/iwreiice, a di.stance of about 250 miles.
Yet Gaspe and Houaventnre are only a
part of the " Gulf Division " of the fish-
■eries of Canada.

The cod is not the only source of
wealth afforded by these waters. About
«ne hundred and fifty tons of salmon,
taken from the sea off the coast, are ex-
ported in ice each .season, to say nothing
of the salted salmon. Of herring there
are vast quantities, and when there are
off seasons in which they are less abun-
dant than usual the effect is marked in
the decrease of the great staple of cod.
' In some recent years 40,000 barrels of
herring have been secured for bait, and
there have l)eeti years when twice that
quantity has been used for manure. In
an onlinary year about 25,000 barrels of
herring are sent away .salted, while large
quantities are sliip])ed fresh, frozen or
smoked. More than a million pounds of
canned loksters are .sent away in an
average season, while tons of tlietu are
shipped fresh from the se;i. Then there
are mackerel, hake, haddock and halibut,
as well as .sea trout and smelt. Tiiis is,
; in truth, a great country for fish.

In this part of the world codfish is
■king. The harvest of the dried fish
: amounts to about fifteen million pounds
; in some years, while such jiroducts of the
: cod as oil, tongues and sounds, are jiut up
and sliij)ped in like proportion.

The summer codfishing usually begins
i early in May and continues until the
i middle of August, after which the fish

are not in good condition until September
or October, when the fall fishing begins
and is continued until the early winter.
When there is an abundance of small
herring, the catches of cod are sometimes
enormous. In the autunni of a recent
gooil year there was a i)eriod vvlieii some
of the boats at I'aspebiac landed as many
as thirty drafts each in a week. There
are times in the suminer when the fisher-
men cease to t;ike cod, .simply because
the fish cannot be sjilit and salted as
rapidly as they are brought ashore.
Continuing to take them would be a
wilful waste. This, however, is not an
annual occurrence. There art off years
in fi.shing, as in farming, when herring
are scarce and the catch of cod below the
average. If everj- year were a good one,
the Gaspe fisher would have little to
trouble his mind.

I'rom I'asjK'biac onward, in the proper
seasons, all jdiases of the fishing opera-
tions may be seen, from the bringing
ashore of the shining catch to the final
turning of the si)lit and dried fish on the
flakes. These ilakes are rough frames of
poles and boughs, at a convenient height
from the ground, on which are laid the
salted fish to be cured by the sun and the
breeze. During this process they are
tended with great care, and turned and
turned again, day by day, until they are
the dried cod of commerce, ready to be
shipped to luirope. South .America, the
West Indies, or any other part of the
world where codfish may be in demand.
Acres of these drying fish may be seen
spread out in the fields, and there are
huge circular i)iles of thoroughly cured
fish, which look, at a distance, like
gigantic grindstones or the foundation
tiers of marlello towers.

Scenes of Sad Stories

Helow I'aspebiac the lobster fishery be-
gins to assume larger proportions, at such
places as Nouvelle, Port Daniel, Shiga-
wake and L'.\n.se aux Gascons. The can-
ning factories form an important industry
on this part of the coast.

It was at Port Daniel that Jacques

mfvv^mpvmnvpi

■s.

Cartier cast anchor when seekinjf a liaven
in the " Raie of Heat." The coast in
this vicinity is roujjh, and sugtjestive of
shipwrecks in stormy weather. There is
a j.;riin sii,t!r!.jestion, too, in the title of
Capd'Knfer, alias Cap an Diable, which
is to the eastward of the harbor. Tiie
heifjhts are nigfjed enough to make the
gloomy designation seem not altogether
inappropriate. A still more awesome
place, no less by its formidable rocks than
by its record of disaster, is Point an
Maquereau, or Mackerel Point, famous
for the wreck of the " Colborne " in the
midnight darkness of the night and
morning of the istli and i6lh of (October,
1S38.

Point au Maquereau marks the end of
the Raie de Chaleur, as does Miscon
Island on the New Hrunswick side, sotne
eighteen miles distant. The Point is also
the beginning of the boundary line be-
tween die counties of Ronaventure and
Gaspe. Beyond it lie Newport, I'abos
and Grand River townships. The rivers
of the two latter places have already been
referred to in con:.^ction with fly-fishing
for salmon. All along these shores of
the Gulf is the best of codfishing, while
the lobster trade assumes still larger pro-
portions than along the coast already
passed.

The next important headland, some
twenty-five miles to the eastward, is Cap
d'lvspoir, or Cape Despair, as many pre-
fer to call it. It looks forbidding enough
to warrant the latter title, especially in
rough weather. At this point, two and a
<iuarter centuries ago, Deiiys found, or
thought he found, two winds blowing in
contrary directions. Here, too, in 1711.
one of Admiral Walker's ill-fated
squadron, which came to grief later in the
• St. Lawrence, met its fate. Tliis vessel
is believed to have been the "I'eversham,"
carrying 36 guns and manned by 196
men, all of whom were lost. The story
is told that the fishermen in this vicinity
found the hull of this ship lying on the
top of a clifT, twenty feet above high
water, where it had been landed by a
mighty wave. There is a tradition that,

after this disaster, there were nights
when, all being calm, a storm would sud-
denly rage, and in the midst of it a phan-
tom frigate would be driven on the rocks,
the cries of those on board rising above
the tempest. Then there would be a
ciasii, the frigate would disappear, the
storm would cease, and quii-t would again
prevail upon the waters.

Percd and the Rock

Not until one sees Perce can he have
an adeeiuate conception of the beauty of
the scenery of the ea.steni end of the
(iaspe Peninsula, and having once seen
it, he realizes the difficulty of doing it
even scanty justice by any attempt at
verbal description. It is one of the places
in regard to which language fails to con-
vey to those at a distance a correct idea
of what is revealed to the eye. lispeci-
ally is the impression strong when one
has been landed from the steamer after
dark and awakes in the morning to get
his first look at the place in the clear
light of day. The term "clear" is not
idly used in this connection. In the
wonderful atmosphere of this part of the
gulf, the distinctness with which objects
are presented to the view is surprising.
In the case of Perce Rock it is almost
startling. Seen from the shore, this
singular natural monument stands out
against the sea and sky, as sharply de-
fined as if cut by the chisel of some
Titanic sculptor. It looms in solemn
grandeur as a revelation exceeding all
that the fancy had been led to anticipate.
In the early morning the sharp, bold out-
line of this huge mass of solid rock rises
in viviil contrast with the softened hues
of the cloudless heavens and the unruffled
lei, while the bright green turf which
mantles the promontory near at hand is
in no less contrast with the reddish tints
of the rugged clifTs which rise abruptly
from the waters at their base. He must
be of a stolid nature who, at such a time,
is not impressed with a feeling of admira-
tion whi-,.11 is akin to reverence for the
handiwork of the Creator.

It is from this rock that Perce derives

its name. Iiiiaj^iiie an island in the form
of a block of reddish c<)nj,domerate and
sandstone, spriiiginj^ with jjerpendicular
clifTs from the sea to a heij^lit of nearly
three hundred feel, with a Icnj^th of ahout
fifteen hinidred feet and a width of i-ome
three hundred feet, each extremity seem-
ing as straight up and down as if cut to a
plumb line, and there is the first i.i.pres-
sion of what the rock is like. Near the
outer end of this mass, and rising as
abruptly, is another rock, sugarloaf in
form, a clear channel separating the two.
This is the outer pillar of what was once
a natural arch, one of three mentioned in
the narratives of early exi)l()rers. Of
these three one has utterly disappeared.
The single arch remaining is near the
shoreward end of the great rock, and the
passing through it may be made at high
water by a good sized boat with full sail
set.

The top of the pierced rock is a green
plateau, the highest ])art being near the
mainland with an incline to the seaward,
and on this territory are gulls and cor-
morants, apparently numbering thou-
sands. .\ singular fact is that the colony
of the gulls and that of the cormorants
each has its well defined boundary, so
that the intrusion of any of either species
on the possessions of the latter is the
cause of a terrible connnution, which
ceases only with a restoration of the
status in quo ante bellum. These con-
flicts occur very many times in the course
of a day. When hostilities are thus de-
clared, the contending forces rise in
clouds, filling the air with the noise of
their screaming and keeping up a terrific
din. The noise of these birds has its
uses to man at times. r;>r many genera-
tions it has been of no small service to
the mariner on occasioiis when, in the
darkness and the storm, his course has
been guided by these signals which told
him of his bearings.

The to]) of the rock is not accessible to
the sightseer. The practicability of an
ascent by anybody was considered to be
out of the tpiestion for more than two
hundred vears after these shores were

settled, and when two iidventurous
fellows accomplished the feat, early in
the pa^t century, great was the wonder
at their achievement. At only one point
was the ascent possible, and then it was
accomplished only at great hazard.
Others found the waj' there later, but as
they made havoc with the birds and their
nests, the authorities passed a by-law
which tabooed such incursions for the
future.

It could not be otherwise than that the
rock should have its phantoms. The
Indians, with their keen sense of the sub-
lime, ])eo])led all this land with good and
evil spirits, while still more weird stories
have been handed down from the early
days of the I'rench regime. " Le genie
del'Ile I'erce " is said to be the misty
form of a female on the summit of the
rock, with arms outstretched as if in ap-
peal. This spirit has been visible oidj* in
dark and tempestuous nights, and those
to whom it has appeared have sailed away
as rapidly as possible, without Htojijnng
to investigate. These facts may give
some color to the materialistic belief that
imagination has conjured a phantom
from the mists of the sea and the clouds
of restless sea birds hovering above the
clifTs.

" Le Roclier de Perce" is believed to
be all that remains to be seen of an
isthmus that once readied from the main-
land tt) what is now the Island of liona-
venture. Mount Joli, a promontory with
frowning cliffs, marks the point of junc-
tion with the land. On the green slope
of this headland the most conspicuous
object to-day is the lesthetic summer resi-
dence of a well known New York artist,
whose choice of a site does no discredit
to his taste.

Guarding the Perce shore against the,
winds and waves of the Gulf is Honaveii-
ture Island, some two aiul a half miles
distant. Seen from the village, its land-
ward slo]ie gives little token of the forma-
tion of this island. Seen from the .sea-
ward, it has another aspect. Save on the
surface, it is a mighty rock, with a line
of cliff reaching from 250 to 500 feet

■it

r I '■ k

:.^S&L

adventurous
feat, early in
IS the wonder
only one point
id then it was
great hazard,
e later, but as
birds and their
ssed a by-law
rsions for the

; than that the
lantonis. The
:nse of the sub-
with good and
s weird stories
roni the early
e. " Le genie
. be the misty
summit of the
ed as if in ap-
visible only in
;hts, and those
ave sailed away
thout stopping
icts may give
istic belief that
;d a phantom
ind the clouds
ring above the

is believed to
be seen of an

from the main-
sland of liona-
romontory with

point of junc-
he green slope
)st conspicuous
tic sunnner resi-
ew York artist,
es no discredit

ore against the,
rulf is Honaven-
iid a half miles
illage, its land-
en of the fornm-
1 from the sea-
:t. Save on the
ick, with a line
250 to 500 feet

above the sea and forming a preci])itous
front. The formation is of red sandstone
intermixed with conglomerate. The
island is a little over two miles long and
three-quarters of a mile l)road. It is a
fishing station of considerable importance.
This rocky isle was formerlj- the property
of one Captain Duval, of whose prowess
as a ])rivateer, in the wars of the I-'irst
Km])ire, some stirring stories are
chronicled. In the time of Denvs de

nearly i.^cx) feet above the sea. Here is
a handsome monument in honor of Ste.
Anne, and here are the cannon which, on
great occasions, send out their voices over
many leagues of land and .sea. So steep
is this mountain at the summ' Miat, jiass-
ing on the highway, one would be in-
clined to consider it next to inaccessible,
but the ascent is made without difficulty
when the right direction is taken. Once
the to]) is gained, a surpassing view meets

^ I'ERCE \-//j.A(;i-: A.yj) s/iok/-:

'i I'ronsac, who had a grant of Perec, the
■island was famed for an abundance of
I rabbits and wild pigeons.
,' The walks and drives in the vicinity of
V Perce are delightful. The chief of them
; is that to the mountain, which gives a
igood idea of the possibilities of this part
;'of the world in respect to scenerv. Up,
■;'up the hills one travels, until at last " La
)Table-a-Rolland," the sunnnit of Mont
.|Ste. Anne, is reached, at a height of

tnldcoloiiial Koule

the e\c. The visitor is standing on a
height which is visil)le to ves.sels at least
sixty miles away, and some say to a third
more than that distance. The (lulf is
doited with near and distant sails, and
for many leagues to the north and south
is the outline of the shore, with its bays
and headlands, the white houses marking
the line of the highway along the coast.
t)nly to the rear, where the rugged moun-
tains rise, seems there a limit to the view,

and even there tlie majesty of the forest-
clad hills must impress the lover of the
sublime in nature.

I'ercc was visited by Jacques Cartier in
1534, and has been famed as a fishing
station for more than three hundred
years. It was a place of note lonjf before
Quebec was founded, and is thus an old
part of the new world in the story of the
advent of the European. While not an
historic battle ground, it had its experi-
ence of war in 1690, when tlie French
settlement was ilestroyed by a force from
two English frigates. The township has
a population of about i,Soo. The fishing
district is one of the richest on the Gaspe
coast.

Gaspd Basin and Village

The most convenient way to get from
Perc^ to Gaspd is by water, but if one is
fond of rugged scenery, he can have it to
his heart's content by taking the high-
way for a part of the distance, catching
the steamer further along the coast.
Though much of the journey will be out
of sight of the water, the road will be
around Mai Baie, as it is called in these
days, though Morue Bay is the true title,
derived from the abundance of codfish
found there. Across this bay, from
Perce Rock to Point St. Peter, is only
some seven or eight miles, but to follow
the road requires a journey of about
double that distance. The first half of
the trip is up and down long and pro-
digiously steep mountains, around which
the narrow road curves in the most fan-
tastic and, to a stranger, alarming man-
ner. Here and there along the route are
small hatnlets, or there are lonely houses,
so far away on the sides of mountains, or
at the bottom of valleys, that a stranger
is bound to wonder how people ever got
there, in the first place, and why they
ever settled there to live and die, when
there was plentj' of room for them in so
many more accessible parts of the
world.

Point St. Peter, with its low lying rocks
of dark freestone, relieved by the white
houses of the fisher folk, marks the en-

trancj to the Hay of (laspe. It is an im-
portant fishing station, and one of the
points on the coast where the fury of a
storm is likely to be felt. In fair weather,
however, the Point and its surroundings
have many attractions. To the north of
this, within the bay, is Le Chien Wane, a
place which has a record for shipwrecks
in former years, and it has an equally
dangerous vis-a-vis in I,a Grand Gr^ve,
on the north shore, near Cape Gasp4.

The Ray of Gaspe, with the latter cape
and Point St. Peter as its guardians, is
some sixteen miles in length and about
six miles in width for the first ten or
twelve miles after entering it. Then,
narrowing between two points, it leads to
a connnodious and land-locked harbor
where is the beautiful Ciasp^ basin, one
of the safest and fairest havens in all
America. On the .south shore of the bay,
before reaching Cape Haldimand, are
several settlements of note. One of these
is Seal Cove, where the native Irish
tongue may be heard in everyday conver-
sation, and Douglastowu, a place which
shared with New Carlisle the liberal
grants to the United Empire loyalists
who sought homes on the peninsula. Off
Douglastowu is a safe and ample anchor-
age for even a fleet of ships. That fine
salmon river, the St. John, empties into
the bay at this point, and ihere is here,
as at Mai Bale, a barrachois, with the high-
way on the narrow strip of bar which en-
closes the lagoon. The entrance to Gasj)^
harbor is between Cape Haldimand and
Sandy Beach. Beyond are the north-west
and .south-west arms, the latter of which
is the basin, with an entrance a little
more than a thousand feet wide. These
arms are the outlets of the Dartmouth
and York rivers, famous for their fly
fishing.

Gaspe Basin at morning, at evening — ;it
ail times — is a place of wonderful beautv,
and dull must be the nature that is not in-
spired by the charm of the calm waters
and the glorious landscape which appeals
to one wherever the eye is turned. The
stately hills rise in graceful dignity as a
setting for this peaceful haven, and the

::s;

f ■ ■

It is ail itii-

11(1 one of the

the fury of a

11 fair weather,

i surroundings

the north of
Chien Hlanc, a
for shipwrecks
las an equally

Grand Gr^ve,
ape Gasp^.
the latter cape
s guardians, is
gth and about
.he first ten or
-ing it. Then,
)ints, it leads to
-locke<l harbor
isp<J basin, one

havens in all
liore of the bay,
laldiniand, are
:. One of these
e native Irish
veryday conver-
, a place which
sle the liberal
Iinpire loyalists

peninsula. Off

1 ample anchor-
liips. That fine
111, empties into
1 there is here,
s, with the high-
)f bar which eii-
itrance to Gaspd
Haldiniaiid and
e the north-west
latter of which
iitrance a little
et wide. These

the Dartmouth
IS for their ily

r, at evening— at
onderful beauty,
lire that is not iii-
the calm waters
)e which appeals
is turned. The
iful dignity as a
haven, and the

])ure, l)rai"iiig air is a tonic bi'votid the
physician's art. Here, too, is historic
ground, for on the sandy point at tin- en-
trance is the spot where Jacques Cartier
took formal ])()ssession of tlie land in the
name of his king, I'rancis the I'irst. On
the 24th day of July, 1534, in the presence
of his enthusiastic comrades, and to the
wonder and iierlurbation of "many
savages," he caused to be erecteil a cross
thirty feet high, with an escutcheon bear-
ing three fleiirs-de-lys, over which was
carved in the wood tiie inscripti<in,
" Vive le Roi de France." Thus was
Gasjid the first place in Canada on which
the French explorers ])lanted the symbol
of the Christian faith, even as tradition
says it was planted there, ages before, by
a white missionary frciiii the unknown
country beyond the great sea.

The convenience of Gaspe Basin as a

place of shelter, and the facilities it

afforded for traffic with the Indians, as

well as for the fi.sliing business, caused it

to be a place much frequented from the

first. The Basin was at a later date, in

171 1, the scene of the only triumph of

vSir Hovenden Walker, who started with

|a fleet to capture Quebec and never got

jfurther than Egg Island. Calling at

IGaspe, he destroyed a few houses and

[fishing boats, and captured a French iiier-

[chant shi]), which he afterwards burned

[because he could not take it out of the

Iharbor. Still later a call here was made

[by some of the ships of Wolfe's fleet.

Ion their way to lay siege to Quebec,

[in 1759. Ro'''lt}' visited the Basin,

lin the person > the Prince of Wales,

in 1S60, and from first to last there

lave been many famous callers at these

Ishores.

Hills meet the eye throughout the pa.s-
Bage of the Ba}' of Gasp^, and on the
lorth shore is a succession of cliffs so
lagnified b}- the clear atmosphere that
Ithey seem to rise to a distance far beyond
kheir actual height. The.se hills so
pecurely shelter the harbor that it seems
the ideal of a place of .shelter whatever
Itorins may rage. Gaspe village is finely
lituated on the heights overlooking the

Basin, and is a place from which one may
make a variety of pleasure excursions by
land or water. It has good hotel accom-
modation, and is in many ways a desirable
l)lace of sojourn for those in search of
health or ])leasure. Trips by carriage or
boat may be made to many points, and
everywhere will be found something
wortli seeing.

Vast (piaiitities of coal oil are believed
to underlie this part of the country, and
considerable cajiital has been expended
in sinking wells. Some of the results
have lieen very encouraging, and the
time may come when this part of the
jieninsula will be known as one of the
great oil regions of .\merica.

In the meantime, fishing is the great
industry. In and around the Bay of
Gaspd each se.ison a thousand men go
out upon the waters and return day by
day, until the results of their toil are
.seen in the tnillions of pounds of cod
credited to this portion of the shores.
The cod taken between I'erce and Caj)
des Rosiers in an average year will make
over three million pounds of dried fish,
while the annual value of all the fisheries
in that limit is over $200,000. In these
may be included some 100,000 pounds of
fresh salmon in ice and a like quantity of
canned lobsters. These figures, it must
be remembered, appl}- only to the small
stretch of shore around this part of the
peninsula. They represent only about
one-third of the results of the Gaspe
fisheries in these particular lines, not
including the returns of the outlving
district of the Magdalen Islands, which
belong to Gaspe county.

No one who has the time can afford to
leave (iaspe without a closer examination
of the surroundings than a steamer
voyage can give. A visit to the Cape and
to Ship Head will reveal a magnificent
panorama of land and marine scenerv.

Within the Bay, as the Cape is
approached, are miles of .shore dotted
with the depots of the great fishing con-
cerns and the white houses of the fisher-
men. The Cape itself, a regular headland
of limestone, is a notable place, and on

«s

tile lliiitli sidi' In ii raiij^c of j^niliil rliffs
risiiiji sonic juo (vvi iihovi' tlii' sea. Sliip
lli'acl was oiii'f noted for a ]>ci"iiliar roi-k,
(litailu<! from llii- --lion', known as "'I'lie
Old Woman," wliicli finally yiel<k'd to
the foree of leiii])est and tide. iMoiii this
rock, say some, the desif,'iialion of
"(■ras])t'" was derivi'd, tlli' word heiii^i a
corruption of the Indian term "Katse-
])iou," or "separate," There seems more
])rol)al)ility, and certiiinly more si)j;niri-
cance, in the more j^eiierally acce])ted
lielief that "CiasiJe" means "Land's luid."
If this term conveys to anybody the
idea of a jiinii)iii,if-otT ])lace, only to be
seen for the lack of some better attraction,
let it l)e uiidi'istood that there is most cer-
tainly nolhiii.i,' in a name in this iiislaiici'.
The visitor loCiaspe will tiiid himself wi'll
rewarded for lii~ jipiirney, and if lie is of
an eiKpiirinji mind he will learn iiiori-
about fish and the lisluries than is dreamed
of in the ])liil(isopliy of the cities.

La Bale de Chaleur

The journey over the Intercolonial
Railway is resumed at Dalhousie. In
reacliiiij,^ this ])lace from (".asi)e the
voya^a' has been made on I, a Haie de
Chaleur, one of the most beautiful
havens in America. Ninety miles lonj;,
and from fifteen to twenty-five wide,
there cannot be found in its waters either
rock or other hindrance to the safe passa.ife
of the larjjest of shi])s. Jaccpies Cartier
j;ave the bay its ])reseiit iiame to com-
memorate the grateful warmth which he
there felt after coniinj.j from the cold
shores of Xewfoundlaiid. What the
Indians had called it is a matter on which
there has been a difference of o]nnion .
A good authority i Rand) says their name
for it was Mowebaliktabayayk, meaning
the liijfgesl bay. Others have claimed
that the original name was I''cketaam
Nemaachi, or Sea of ImsIi. a name far
more apjiropriate, though less imisical,
than that which it now bears, for in this
genial climate, with its breezes from the
sea, the weather is never hot, as heat is
understood by the summer tourist.
Cartier, however, may be jxirdoiied for

his enthusiasm, for it was ,i warm day in
July when he arrived, and he had been
disjileased with the apjiearance of the
north coast of New fouiidlaiid, In contrast
with the latter, the ni.iiiiland and the
beautiful bay seemed like a \ isioii of
I'aradise. " The counlrv is holler Ihan
the country of Si)ain, and the fairest thai
can ]>()ssibly bi' found," was his verdid,
and he named the i)eaceful haven " The
Hay of Heat." It is somelimes described
ill the ])lural form as Haie des Chaleurs,
but willloul any autlioril\'. Locally, it
is known as ]\f[y Chaleur.

l'"or many miles the Intercolonial
railway runs close to the shore, and few-
fairer sights are to be seen chan the broad
and beautiful ex])aiise of water, with its
numerous little inlets on the New
Mruiiswick side and the lofty ami
imjjosing mountains rising grandly on the
shore of Ouebec. b'or miles, too, the
land is settled, and the green fields of
well-lilled farms add another charm to the
scene. Of a summer day, with a gentle
bree/e rippling the smooth surface of the
water, the yachtsman feels that he has at
last found the object of his dream. There
is no finer yachting bay on the North
Atlantic coast.

The waters of the bay abound with net
fish, and there is also a line chance fcir
line fishing. Catihing mackerel is a
favorite recreation, the season lastinj.;
from early in July until the last of Se])-
lember or later. The mackerel of the
(iiilf of St. Lawrence are of large si/e,
but here as elsewhere the mackerel are
ca])ricious in their movements. In some
seasons they are very abundant. Horse
mackerel, or tunny, can also be caught in
the bay by those who have a taste for that
kind of sport.

The shore fisheries on the New Hruiis-
wick side of the bay are a great source (if
revenue to the ])e«])le. The value of the
fish of all kinds taken around the coast
of Rcstigoiiche and Gloucester coiinlies
each year is about one and three-cpiarter
million dollars. Helween three and fmir
thousand men .-ire engaged in fishing, ami
a large amount of capital is investid

_i.

vimii iliiy i'l
w hail beiMi
uui' 1)1' tl>*'
111 coiilnist
iMil iiiid tlif
;i vision <il
holler Ihiiii
e faiu'Sl ihiil
', his vi-nlii'l,
haviii " Thf
IK'S (U-si-rilit'd
k's Cliak'Uts,
Locally, il

Inteicoloiiial
hoiv, ami ffw
hail Ihf broad
valer, wilh its
,11 the New
t, lofty anil
Hiaiiilly on Ihe
lik-s, loo, Ihe
^rreen fields of
or charm lo ihe
, wilh a penile
I s\irface of the
i thai he has iit ;
H dream. There
(,11 Ihe Norlli

houn.l wilh net
lie chance for
mackerel is a
season lasliu(!
he last of Sep-
ckerel of Uie
of lar}<e si/e,
mackerel are
Ills. In some
mUuil. Horse
,o he can.uhl i"
a tasle for thai

the New Hnins-
jrreat source ot
;he value of lUe
round the coast
ucesler coimties
lid Ihree-fiuarler
1 three and f'mr
,1 in fishiuK, ami
ital is Invested.

Ilcrrilij,' are a chi'a]) fish, hut the \alue of
those canj.;lll liere in an average year is
Upward of lialf a million dollars. Smell
are another cjiea]) fish, ami il takes a
numlier of lliem lo make a ])ound. Some
i,6cK.i,(x»i jiounds, which inean.-i many

I more million individual fish, an- the
yield of the .sea (iround Reslij,'onclie and

[Cdoiicesler in a year. The cod makt' a
sliowinjj of Itetween six ami .seven million

mounds.

Wilh such wonderful salmon rivers as

Ithe kcsliKouclie and Nei)isi,miil emiitv iiii.;

into this hay, il is not siiriirisiiiK thai the
toilers of the sea secure tlu'ir share of this
much s<,in^lil lish. In the twi, counties
named, in some \ears, nearly a million
and a half ])ounds of salmon are sent
away fresh in ici', while larj^'e (luanlities are
shii)])ed as canned jjoods. There is noth-
ing remarkable in talkinj.; about salmon
by the million i><,iiiids in this jiart of the
world, where they can sonii'limes be seen
by the loll. .\s many as two hundred
salmon, wilh an averai^e weij,dit (,f twent\'
])(,iinds each, li.ive been seen hiiij; (,ii tlu'

/titi'ff'olonidl A^oiiff'

Iloor iif :i free/iiix-li<iiiHi', jii^t :!•> llii'\ li:iil
ooiiii- from tlif lU'ts witliipiil ]lilkill^; oi-

SDllillK.

As for lohslers, alxml a iiiillion pDuml^
i)f tliL'tii ari' si'iil fnmi Kcstij^oiu'lic and
(iloiii't-stur in I'aiis farli simsoii, ami a
iiuu-h lar^LT (luaiitity ari' scnl away frrsli.
There are many other ])r<)(liicts of the sea
whii'h >,'o to make m]( the Kfeat a ^,'f; rebate
and fstahUsh the fame of this i>arl of the
country fur the uealtli of its waters.

All the rivers which flow into the hay
are j^'ood fishing,' streams. Sea trout are
found in the estuaries, and hrook trout
in the streams ahove. While not so lar>{e
as those found in the streams further
north, they are of ).food si/.e and excellent
flavor. The sea trout will averaj^e four
and five ])ounils ; the others run all the
way from half a ])ound to four pounds.

The Cliarlo is a fine river for this kind
of anj^linjj;, and it is at its best after the
middle of Au),aist, thouj^h there is j.;oo(l
lishintj at any lime from the first of July
to the middle of September. The best
brook trout are found on the South
Urancli, above the falls, the latter beinj,'
three miles from the railway, and the
fishinj; is j^ood from there for a distance
of fifteen or twenty miles back. A
basketful, containin;.^ from 150 to 2cx),
averaj,'in;.; about two to the pound, is not
an unusual record of a day's fishiu),' by
one man. Sea trout are cau>;ht anywhere
in the three miles between Henderson's
bridjre and the bay, and some famous
catches have been made. (lood s])ort
may also be found at the lakes, a few
miles from the villaj;e.

Another well known stream, both for
salmon and trout, is Jacquet river, about
fifteen miles below Charlo. The scenery
on it is wilil and striking, the waters
running between precipitous rocks roar-
ing in cascades and foaming aini<l the
boulders in the rapids. Ciuides are lO be
had at the village. If one wishes to be
unattended, he can go up by a good
portage road, and will find excellent
fishing as he travels. He is sure to have
it at Sunnyside, eight miles from the
station, or at the Pot Hole and Kettle

Hole, four miles higlui up. Tlu' best
l)lan is to tish .ilong between the two
placi's, and one is sure to ha\e good luck.
.\uother choice lot is at the first falls,
twenty miles from the slatiou. Ilelleclunc
Lake, si\ miles from the station, in
another direction, also has a good n.nne
for gami-y trout, runiiiug from a half
l)ound t<» two ])oun<ls in weight.

The shooting along the ba\' and in the
woods further inland is of the same fine
character as that mentioned in comiection
with the Restigouche -ihlcks and geese
near the water, and biMr, caribou, moose,
etc., ill the forest.

.\ view of the Haii- de Chaleur, from
the New Hrimswick shore, is at all times
pleasing, but never does it impress the
mind more than in the silence of a c.iltn,
clear night in summer or autumn, when
the moon gives a silvery softness to
everything on land ami sea. At Cliarlo,
'or instance, where the opposite shore is
not so far away as to be obscure, the
sight is one to inspire the most prosaic
soul. Not the least striking object in the
sco])e of vision is Tr.icadieguash Moun-
tain, nearly Km feet high, which,
though ten miles distant across the
water, seems in the clear air of this
climate as if it were but ti league away.

The bay has its legends, and there are
tales that the old peo])le are loath to tell,
lest they be assailed with the ridicule of
this scofiiug and materialistic age. There
is yet one uncaiinv thing whii'h relies
not on legend for its fame, but asserts
itself by ai)])eariiig from time to time to
mortal eyes. It is the ])hantom light of
I/a Haie de Chaleur.

I''or the last one hundred years at
least, or as far as the luiglisli residents
have had the story orally transmitted
from their grandfathers, this light has
been seen in various j)arts of the bay
from above Jactjuet River as far down as
Caraquet, and its advent has been accepted
as the paarege of storm and tempest.
Nobody knows what it is, for it has never
approached within less than a mile or
two from shore, and it has disaj)peared
from the \ iew of the few bold sceptics

whii liavi- siiii)^ht 111 riMi-li it )i\ llii' iiid i>t'
lioals. Si>iiU'liiiU's it iiiis tlu' Miiitiliiiii'i'
of a ItuniinK Vl■^'S^•l iiimiin' mill's away.
More (rt'cim-iUiy it looks like a l)all of
liri', appaii'iitly i-losi' at liami. Now ami
lliiMi it Marts liki' a ini'ti-or, and a^aiii
^lideH aloii>{ with a slow and di^niilii'd
iiiution, Oci'asionally it niounis i'a|iidly
in tlu- air, sails away and dcsci'nds on a
clislaiil ])art of tlic hay. It is altom-ilii-r
mysterious and t'oct-ntrio. One iiia\-
waleh for months and fail to nvl a );liin])se

lost clui ii'n a storm .nul iniini'di.ili'ly after
the event the li^ht liej,'an its vagrant
existence. 'I is one of the strange thin).;H
that I'onie in \" ith llie li<le.

Bathurst and the Nepisiguit

The early settlement of what is now
Itithmst dates haik t<i the first half of
the si'venleenth cnlnry, when the l"rem'h
were masters of the land. As early as
16.45 the Jesuits had a station at tlie mouth
of the Nei)isi;;iiit, and two years later they

t('.)//AY/ /.y/O CAM I'

of it, hut many reliahle persons have
seen it time after time. It is usually
followed by a storm, aii<l the most
siu>j;ular ])arl of the story is that it has
appeared above the ice in the de])th ot
winter. There is, of course, a tradition,
and it is to the effect that just before the
light a])])eared for the first time a part of
the crew of a wrecked vessel were mur-
dered by their com])anions, who ajijiro-
jiriated all the iilimder they could j^et.
The jiiratical sailors were subsefpienllv

Inlocoltiuial A'mi/f

built a chapel near the site of the ])reseiit
town. The first Ivnglishm.in to make the
l>lace his home was Iluyh Sutherland,
who came in 17S1), and the Sutherland
name as well as the manor may be found
there to this day. The settlement w;is
orij,nnally known as Indian I'oinl, an<l
the harbor as St. I'eler's Hay, but when
(lovernor Sir Howard Douj^las desi)j;ne(l
the plot of the town he K"ve it the name
of Halliurst. It is well laid out, and wis
diilv founded in 1S2S, when Sir Howard

Ill

m
m

\ isited it for that i)iirpose. and drank all
the wine in the place. In those days
there was no Intercolonial, and no chance
to jirocnre su])i)lies at short notice. The
annonncement of the jiropused oflicial
visit filled 'he jiuhlic with dismay — there
was hnt one bottle of that which niaketh
L^lad the heart to he had for love or nionev.

it--

If*'

T'tVr.i

T/rr.lfiOrcff/-: /'alls. .\1-:AK /.M THCKST Ixtnohmial Koulf

The reception committee were eqnal to
the occasion. When the banquet was
spread, the wine was ])laced before Sir
Howard, while the natives drank the
toasts in water so ingeniously colored
th;it His Excellency never suspected the
innocent tleception.

There is a comfortable, old-fashioned
look about many of the houses of liath-
nrst ; the streets are wide and shade trees
are jilenty, while the situation of the
town is in all ways attractive. The roads
in this vicinity are very good, and the
o])portunities for boating in the harbor
and around the bay are unlimited. In
connection with the
latter there can he
successful line fishing
for mackerel, smelt,
cod and Ijass.

At what is known as
The Point, three miles
from the station, is a
line .sand beach, which
attracts many visitors
in the bathinj^' sea.son.
The I'oint. indeed, is
<>.* itself in favor as a
summer resort, and
there is no lack of
accommodation for
visitors who wish to
remain there for a
time, (iood board can
be secured at the
houses of well-to-do
farmers, and houses
may be rented by
those who want to do
their own housekeep-
ing. These iire rented
furnished and a cook
supplied, so that
parties may have all
the comforts of home
without the drudgerj-
of domestic affairs.

What is known as

liathurst village, to

distinguish it from

Hathnrst, the sh i re-

town, is just across

the bridge from the latter, over a shallow

estuary. It is also known as St. Peter's,

the original name of this settlement.

Hathnrst is beautifully situated on a
hill which t nnnands a fine prospect to
the seaward and is a very healthful place.
There are delightful drives in the

vicinity. Oiu' of lli'jse is to the Tele-a-
ffauche, the falls of which are in a rocky
}ior^ii about seven miles from the town.
The word " Tete-a-,nauche " is one of the
instances in which an attempt has been
made to j^ive a I'rench form to a jiurely
Indian word. The Micniac name was Too-
do()-j;oosk, accordin.i; to I'rof. Cianoiiff,
who has made a study of the place
nomenclature of New Hrunswick, but it
has been spelled in all sorts of ways by
various writers. There has been a
cherished belief that the meaning is
" I'airy River," but (ianong thinks that
this is probably not correct, though it
may mean a small river. Kairy River is
a good enough name for it, however,
whatever the Micmacs may have meant.

Another of a junnber of drives worth
taking is up the Nepisiguit river to the
Pabineau Kails, a distance of eight miles,
taking in the Rougli Waters on the return.
At the latter place the river has a very
rapid run for about a mile, amid huge
granite boulders, fragments of the ])re-
historic rock over which the sea flowed in
four centuries of the unrecorded ages.

The Ne])isiguil derives its name from
its turbulent nature, the word being a
corruption of, and possibly an im])rove-
menl on Win-jieg-ij-a-wik, the meaning
of which is rough or troubled water.
The river is about eighty-four miles long
to the head of I'pper Lake and is a famous
stream for salmon and trout. There are
salmon ])ools all along the river as far as
Cirand Falls, twenty miles from Uathurst,
and the choice spots are at the Rough
Waters, three miles ; I'abine;iu l'"alls,
eight miles ; Middle handing, sixteen
miles, and at the Crrand Falls. The
latter are in two ))itches and have a
descent of one hundred and five feet.
The Pabineau Ivdls are more in the
nature of a series of rajiids.

The Nepisiguit salmon are iu)l large,
as salmon go in this jiart of the world,
but they are what are known and valued
as gamey fi.sh. They run to eighteen or
twenty jwunds or over, but the average is
ten or twelve jjounds. The river is com-
posed of rapids, and one may place a fish

for every fool of it. The 'iver is under
lease, of course, and has some fine camjjs
on it, but a visitor may arrange for fishing
on it by a])i)lying to the ])ostm;ister at
Rathurst. I'"ishing guides may be had
for 5 1. 25 a day.

It is an e(|ually good trout river, and
while these fish are found at all points,
they are especially plenty above Grand
F'alls. Many of them weigh four pounds
each. At Devil's I^lbow, about half way
up the river, is a famous trout pool, and
there are numerous other places where
the fisherman will be well rewarded.

At the head waters of the Nipisiguit are
five lakes, around which may be found,
in their season, an abundance of duck
and geese. From these lakes one can
portage to the Upsalquitch. and thence to
the Restigouche, to the Tobi(|ue, and
down to the St. John, and to the North-
west Miramichi, and them-e to Newcastle-
The country is wild enough in the inte-
rior, and abounds in lakes and stre.ims
not lai<l down on any <<'' the maps. These
forests are peopled with all kinds of game.

It is not necessary to .go far from
Bathurst for game, however, even for big
game. During a recent season a gentle-
man from Halifax, so limited for time
that he could sjjend only seven days in
the woods, secured two caribou, a moose
and a bear, at (iordon Brook, between
Pabineau and (irand l''alls. .'-^ome s])orts-
men from Chicago were three weeks
around the river and got three bear,
three moose and three deer. Taking the
Nepisiguit as ;i whole, the region is one
of the finest in New Brunswick for moose,
caribou, deer and bear. Thi: is the
opinion of William (iray, jr., a guide of
twenty years' experience in th'j hunting
.groimds of the province. One of the best
moose and caribou di-,lricts is at the Bald
Mountains, about fifty miles from Bath-
urst. Durin.g the autumn of 1897 no less
than 147 caribou were counted in this vic-
inity in three days, and on the same cruise
thirteen moose were seen in one day.
Siiortsmen in ])ursuil of moose ami caribou
can be located on suitable ground in
from two hours to three or four davsafter

arriviiijj al Hathurst, uiul with a certainty
of success. This will .t,'ive sonic idea of
what the coiiiiliy is like, (luides who
thoronij;hly know the woods can be
en,t;a,t;ed at ;iti.50 and $2.00 a day.

Troiu fishinj.; with bait begins about
the loth of May, and large (juantities of
sea trout, weighing from half a ]K)und to
six jjounds, are taken in the harbor.
About the last of June, or first of July,
the rivers begin to get good and continue
so until the middle of September. During
the summer a red, or brown, or small
grey fly brings good success, and in the
fall when the fish take bait readily one
who prefers a fly would do well to take a
white one with a good deal of tinsel. All
the rivers and lakes have trout. A man
can cast a line anywhere and something
will rise to it.

A large extent of country, noted for its
fishing, its shooting and its opportunities
for health and recreation, is opened to the
traveller by the Caraejiiet railway, which
starts from Bathurst daily, connecting
with the Intercolonial railway at
Gloucester Junction, and runs along the
south shore of the Haie de Chaleur,
connecting with the Gulf Shore railway.
This makes such places as Sliii)pegan,
65 miles, and Tracadie, 71 miles, easily
reached by the tourist, and there are
many places along the route which are
well worthy of attention. At such points
as Salmon Beach, Clifton, New Baiidon,
Pokeshaw, Grande Anse and Caracjuet,
will he. found all kinds of salt water
fishing such as cod, bass, mackerel and
smelt. .' obsters are very plentiful.

There is good trout fishing in the
rivers of this part of Gloucester, the
Pokemouche, Cara(|uet and Tracadie
rivalling the famed Tabusiiitac for sea
trout. Duck, gee.se and brant are very
abundant all around these shores.

Sea bathing may be enjoyed anywhere
on these shores, but the best places are at
Shippegan and Tracadie. At Big Tracadie
river a new hotel has been opened, to be
run in modern style for the accommoda-
tion of tourists. In a(hlitioii to the fish
already named, the energetic eel is to the

front in the harbors and lagoons along
this shore, ami the spearing of eels by
torchlight is a novelty which will interest
the amateur. The inner bay al Tracadie
is a favorite place fortius kind of fishing.
It is .some nine miles long and three wide,
and there are evenings when the lights
from the boats ilhnninate it from one end
to the otlier. The goose, brant and duck
shooting at Pokemouche and Tracadie is
unexcelled anywhere in the world.

Tracadie has a gloomy fame as the place
where the Lazaretto for lejiers is located.
These unfortunates are cared for by the
Dominion Government and have every
care and attention.

At Miscou Island, beyond Slii])pegaii,
is some of the best sea fowl shooting in
America, and Point ISIiscou has a special
reputation in this respect.

A fine country for s])ort lies between
Bathurst and Newcastle. TheTabusintac
river, aliout half-waj-, is one of the best
sea trout rivers in America. The fish
stories told of it are perfecth' astounding
to a stranger. The trout are said to be as
large as mackerel and so plentiful that
the fishing of them is like being among a
mackerel " school." This may be taken
with a little allowance, but there is no
doubt that the river is an unusually fine
one for sport. A horse and canoe are
useful on the journey. There are several
other trout streams in the district, but
this one is most worthy of mention.

The moose, caribou and deer region
extends from the Northwest ^Nliramichi
to the sea coast, and is especially good at
the Tabusiiitac and Kskedelloc rivers.
As to bears, the Bartibogiie region jjoints
proudly to the record of bounties paid on
the bruins slain in its midst. Partridges
are plentiful in every part of this couiitr}-,
and fly across the i)atli of the traveller on
every highway.

Miramichi

When Monseigneur Jean de St. \'alier,
the second Bishop of (Quebec, made a
missionary tour of certain parts of Acadia,
in r6S6, he found the Restigouche and
Richibucto called bv the names thev bear

t::if

to-day, bill what is now the Miniinichi
was then known to the Indians as the
River of the Cross. They had a tradition
of their deHverance from trouble by the
.symbol of the Cross, hnndreds of years
before, and they had lonj^ venerated it
ere the Ciospel was jireached to them.
]5efore that date, however, various names
more or less like " Miramichi '' had been
put on the majis of the earlv exjilorers,
but the origin and meaning of the word
may now be said to be hopelessly obscure.
It was not Miramichi in the first instance,
but it has become famous by that name
in modern times, and there is no jjroba-
bility that it will ever be called by any

1690 he would have had to make an
assignment for the benefit of his creditors.
Since then the value of real estate has
increased, and men have made fortunes
on bits of land that Denis would have
given to have his flask filled when he ran
out of sujiplies on a fishing trip. In these
later days the name and the fame of
Miramichi have extended over the civil-
ized world. Ships of every nation carry
its lumber and its fish t(j distant lands,
and before the days when Chicago,
Boston and St. John astonished mankind
with their pyrotechnics it stood pre-
eminent as the scene of the biggest fire on
record.

AOK ril II 7;.S- /• .1//A'. I MIL HI

other title, whatever the ])hilnlogists uiay
bring to light about it. The name is .saiii
to mean " happj- retreat," but it does not
mean anything of the kind. This much
is definite, and the rest can be left to
imagination.

There was a time when one man, Denis
lie Fronsac, owned the whole of this part
of the country, and yet felt himself less
important than does many a bank clerk
to-day. Land in those times was of value
to a proprietor only when it was already
cleared and convenient to the shore. If
Denis had been obliged to pa\ taxes on
the 2,000 scjuare miles granted to him in

hih'rt'olonial Roitir

Miramichi means more than a river, for
it comprehends a district where the land
and the waters have alike been a source
of weidtli for generations ])ast and will be
so in the generations to come. The first
])lace of note reached by the Intercolonial
railway in this i)art of the country is
Newcastle, the shiretown of Northumber-
land comity. It has a population of
about 2,000, and is beautifully situated
on the north shore of the river, which
here is i)ractically an arm of the sea,
though thirty miles from the open Gulf.
Above Newcastle, the northwest and
southwest branches imite, forming a

7,^

iiiij{hty ^Iruiiiii, which is nearly a iiiile
wide at this jjoiiil, broadt'iiiiit; as il flows
until il is seven miles wide at the mouth.
Vessels from all quarters of tht seas may
be seen loadinj^ lumber at the wharves of
the saw mills alonjf the shores in this
vicinity and for miles below. I'rom the
railway bridf^es, indeed, as far as I<og,t(ie-
ville, five miles below Chatham, are no
less than half a do/eu lumber centres, so
that tfie total jjopulalion of this district is
at least six times as large as that of
Newcastle town itself. In some years
Miramichi sends mt)re than one hundred

bass in a year, or two-thirds of the ])ro(luct
of the whole couulv. Thf yield of smelts
in the county is nearly ten times as
miuii as the yiehl of bass, and of this
Chatham is credited with aboiU a million
pounds. Large (|Uantilies of other kiiuls
of fish are shi])ped each season.

Chatham, about six miles below New-
castle by water, and considerably further
by rail, is a busy jiort from which large
shipments of lumber, fish and other pro-
ducts of the country are made. Refer-
ence has been m.ide to the <i-.iantity of
smelts sent from this port, but it comes to

Ul^ Rlil-.R FA-OM f().y/)S. CHATHAM

Inli'rcolouial Route

million superficial feet of sawn lumber
across the ocean, to say nothing of the
1 irge quantities of sm-ill lumber disposed
of in the markets on this side of the water.
The value of the lumber produced in the
whole county annually is abou ' ooo,

or nearly a fourth of that 'i ^ncw

Brunswick. It is not ecpialled by any
county in the Maritime Provinces, except
the county of St. John.
. The fish ))usiness is another live indus-
try in this count}-. The Northwest river
alone produces about 200,000 ])ounds of

the front in other lines as well. Among
these may be quoted considerably more
than a third of a million cans of sardines
and nearly a million and a half pounds of
toni-cod or frost fish. In the lumber
business one shipper sends away about
26,ooo,o(K) sui)erficial feet in a sea.son. It
was at Chatham that the first steam saw-
mill in Canada was built. Here also
is a very extensive ])ulp mill. Chatham
ranks next to St. John as a shij) owning
]iorl of New Brunswick, and is in other
ways a place of commercial importance.

Il is the st'iil of the Catholic Hishop of
Cliathaiii anil has nunieroiis fiiie build-
iiiKS.

Chatham is coimecled hy rail with the
Intercolonial system by what was orijjin-
ally the Chatham Uranch railway, ami
later a jiortion of the Canada Eastern,
extending from I'redericton to Logj^ie-
ville, five miles below Chatham, a total
distance of 125 miles. The connection
with the main line of the Intercolonial is
al Chatham Jnnction, ten miles sontli of
Newcastle.

The river trip between Newcastle and
Chatham is a delightful one, and there is
a good steamer service at regular hours.
During the shipjiing season the river is a
busy ])lace, and the flags of all nations
may be seen on the slii])iiing in the stream
and at the mills along the shores on both
sides. Numerous excursions nuiy be
made to points below Chatham and out-
side into the bay. A very enjoyable one
is that to Raie du \'in, twenty-five miles
from Chatham, for which regular steamer
trips are made. Yachting is a favorite
recreation around Miramichi, and each
season sees keen i-onlests between boat,->
which are models of their class.

The sportsman in search of wild fowl
will find one of the best localities in the
country at I'oiut Kscuminac, which rivals
even the famed Point Miscou as a resort
of ducks and gee.se. Then, too, those
who are not s])orlsmen may find much to
interest them at various j)oints along the
river. If they h;ive read Canadian history
they will remember that the ship which
carried (ieueral Wolfe's body from
Ouebec to luigland put in at ^Miraniichi
for fresh water. Six: men were sent
ashore at Henderson's Cove, where (iil-
monr and Rankin's mill was afterwards
built, and were murdered by Indians.
The cajjtain, sui>posing that the I'reiu-h
had connnitted the deed, jjmceetled to
silence the battery al I'"rench I'"ort Cove,
then went to Canadian I'oinl, destroyed
it and killed most of the ])eo])le, and on
his wa}' down river stop])e(l long enough
to burn the church at what has ever since
been known as liurnt Church I'dinl. He

ap])ears to have been a man of consider-
able energy, but it was a bad mistake and
rather hard on the Acadians.

The Miranii.chi river is 225 nnles long,
its head waters lying in Carleton and
Victoria counties, within eas}' reach of
the Si. John and its tributaries. The
Northwest Branch begins near the head
waters of the Nepisiguit, and the two
branches unite at Heaubair Island, a short
distance above Newcastle. Hoth are fed
by numerous large streams, and the river
drains over 6,000 scjnare miles of country,
an area equal to about a (juarter of the
province. It is navigable for large vessels
to the bridges above Newcastle, and for
canoes for numy hundred miles. The
vast country which it drains has never
been thoroughly explored ; even the
ubic|uitous lumberman has but a partial
knowledge of it ; and it will readily be
seen that its resources for the hunter are
practically without limit. Moose, caribou,
deer, bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, loup-
cerviers anil all the smaller animals range
these forests, while fish leaj) hoin every
lake and stream. Hy this great natural
highway and its connections one may
reach every section of the ])rovince where
the hunter wishes to go.

One whose time is limited does not need
to wander far from Chatham or Newcastle
in orilerto find abundant sport. As for
fishing, he is in a fish country from which
the annual ex]iorts of salmon, smelts,
bass, etc., are something increilible. Rod
fishing may be had in every direction,
and some of the lakes have never been
fully exploretl. Wherever there is a high
bank on one side and a low beach on the
other will be found a ])ooI to which
salmon are sure to resort. The Ox Row,
on the I.iitle Southwest, a mile above
Re<l Hank, is a favorite sjjot for fishers.
The main Northwest is an es])ecially
good river ; one of the noted i)lai»es on it
is the Hig Hole, five or six miles above
the Head of the Tide. There salmon or
grilse can be caught at almost all times,
but are jiarlicularly aoundant imme-
diately after a rain. The Hig ami Little
Sevogles, which em])ly ir.lo the river just

iiaiiiL'd, liavL' a good ro])iUali()ii. Tlu-
former is a very prelty river wilh a fine
Wfterfall, in the basin henealli wliicli is
excellent fishing at certain seasons. Itn-
medialely helow is the S(inare I'"orks,
where the north and south branches meet,
a place with scenery of rather striking
nature. The Mirainichi salmon is not
large, ten pounds being a fair average,
but its flavor is very fine, (irilse average
about five or six pounds. They are very
gaiiiey, and afford splendid s])ort.

Trout fishing is had in all the rivers,
brooks and lakes. The Tabiisiiitac has
already been mentioned. The sea trout
in it and in the Tracadie are very large.
On both rivers there is good fishing for
many miles from the mouth. Ivirly in
June, when the water of the Miramichi is
low, fine sea trout are caught as far uj) as
Iiidiaiitown. As for flies, the "Jock
Scott " is considered good for all jnir-
poses. The " Silver Doctor " is another
favorite, while for sjiring fishing a red
body with white wings is found to have
" a very taking way."

During the .sunnner, mackerel and cod-
fish are taken with the hook in the Mira-
michi Bay, and in the summer there is
also good bass fishing inside the Horse
Shoe Bar, at the mouth of the river. The
■winter fishing for bass, with bow nets, is
followed on the Northwest river, and
fish as large as twenty jxiunds are taken.
The winter smelt fishing has also grown
to a great industry. Smelt take the hook
as well, and are fished for in the fall and
winter with jiggers, four hooks being
used.

Partridge are very plenty Plover and
snipe are also found in the fall, and a
few, but not many, English woodcock.
The great fall and spring s])ort is the
shooting of geese, brant and ducks of all
kinds. They are found at Tabusintac
Gully, ihouth of Tabusintac, Neguac
Gully, Black I_,ands Point and Grand
Anse, on the north of the river, and Baie
du Vin, Fox Island. Point Ivscuminac,
Tracadie and Pokemouche, rdl of which
are reached by the Caracjiu-t and Gulf
Shore railwav from Bathurst.

.\s for large i^ame, il has already been
intimated that the county of N'orthum-
berland has an abundance of moose, cari-
bou and deer, as well as of bear in their
season. The best hunting grounds, lying
northwest and west from Chatham
and Newcastle, are easily reached by
good roads, and in some instances part of
the journey may be made by rail from
the towns mentioned. The Canada East-
ern will be found convenient for getting
at some of the country to the westward.
In other cases teams are reciuired from
Newcastle.

The [jrovincial government of New
Brunswick has of recent years given in-
creased attention to the wonderful re-
sources the country ])ossesses in the way
of game, and to the jireservation of such
game for the benefit of legitimate hunt-
ers. At the instance of the Surveyor-
General, much valuable information has
been collected as to localities and facili-
ties for reaching them. According to
re])orts furnished tlie chief game com-
missioner, St. John, Northumberland,
Gloucester and Re.stigouche have a
number of choice localities for the
hunter. Besides the district of the west
and northwest, already mentioned, the
country to the north and east, as well as
that to the southeast and south, .-ilong
the Kent county line, is excellent for
moo.se and caribou. Here are .some of
the loc;ilities in various jiarts of the
county :

Guaggis lake, on the Little Southwest
river, is fifty miles from Newcastle by
road. It has ample room for a nuinber
of hunting parties.

Oil the North west Miramichi and
branches a gooil and but little hunted
inoose and cariliou country is at the Por-
tage and Tonioganops rivers, twenty-five
miles from Newcastle by a good road.
Little Rivvr and Mountain Brook lakes
are forty miles from Newcastle, of which
thirty-eight may be made by team and
the remaining two miles is over a good
trail. This is not only a good inoose and
caribou country, but the lakes abound
with trout. Bald ^Mountain, which has

lii-eii rut'oned In in I'liiiiifclion wilh
Halliurst, may hi- risu'lioil t'roili Ncw-
caslk- liy j^'oiiiK tliirty-iMf^ht iiiik's to Cam])
Adams, on Uie Noilliwi'sl Miraniichi,
and twenty -'.wo niik-s hy canoi' or road.
Hartil)oj,'iR\ ri-aclR'<l uillivr hy road or
by K"i"K to Hartil)oK>'i^ .station, twenty-
one miles from Xewcastk- and twetit-
three from Hatluirst, lias (.'xtensive lari-
bou barrens, wliile moose are al.so found
there. The district has a wide re])utation
for bear hiintinj;.

is reached by }.coinj,' to Roj.;ersville sta-
tion, from which it is a journey of nine
miles.

Information as to these loc-dities,
j.;uides, etc., may be liad from Williatn
Wyse, j(ame w.irden, Chatham ; R. H.
Armstrong, Newcastle, or I!. Bishop,
Hathurst.

The Great Fire

" .Ml it re(|uire<l to complete a j)icture
of the (ieneral Judgment was the blast of

Ml I.I. co\-r.. .\E.\R .\r.UCASTLI-:

]\Iillstream, reached from Newcastle by
going nine miles by rail to Beaver Brook
station, or the same distance by team, is
a fine caribou country. There are also
some moose, and deer are on the in-
crease.

Mention has already been made of the
good district at the Tabusintac and V.s-
kedelloc rivers, twenty-five miles from
Newcastle and about the same distance
from Batluirst.

What some have called the hoine of
the moose, at Sabbies and Cain's rivers.

hileiiiiloHial Koiile

a trumpet, the voice of the archangel and
the resurrecticni of the dead." In these
words the local historian, Cooney, gives
his impression of the fire which swept
over Miraniichi, in the year 1.S25. In the
years which have jiassed since then
nearly all the traces of that great calamity
have been effaced, and probably all of
those who were of an age to realize the
terrible grandeur i>f the scene have passed
away beyond recall.

It was the good fortune of the writer,
several years ago, to hear from the lips

of some f)f thf aj^i-d siirvivors tlif story of
thai dreadful da\ , and to write the faels
as they told them. Tlie ]>ietiires which
their minds retained were t'.irillinj.; in the
extreme ; the reality iiuisl have heeii
appalling in its horrors.

They reiiieinhered the Miramiehi of
their voiith as a country rich in resources,
with a larj^e and ra])idly increasiuj.^ liiid)er
trade. Newcastle had then a population
of about 1,000, while probably a third of
that number were settled at Douglastown,
a few miles below. The vast re>,don
through which the river and its tributaries
flowed contained a wealth of maLjnificent
timber, of such a character that it would
be difficult for one to calculate its value
if it were available at the present day.
An idea of its size has been gained from
the remains of the immense stunijjs of
charred pine luiearthed from time to
time duriiiff the l)uildinj^ of the railway,
the like of which cannot be found in what
is even now a wonderful lumber country.

The summer of 1S25 was a prosperous
one, and hundreds of men in the woods
and settlements looked forward to still
more extended operations in the winter.
The autumn came with even more than
the usual sjileiulor which attends it
in this northern land. The sky was
unclouded for weeks. Not a drop of
rain fell over the vast ran).;e of coimtry,
and the forest cracked with unwonted
dryness, while the <(rass withered and
the flowers faded. The little rivulets
ceased to flow, aiul the }j;reat river shrank
far from its accustomed bouiuls. The
ground was parched as in midsunnner
drouth, while the air was close and a
sultry heat oppressed the senses. October
came, and as the days of its first week
passed the air grew more stifling and the
heat more oppressive, though the sun
was less bright than it had been and
shone like a disc of copper through a
faint smoke which seemed to come from
a distant region. vSome said that the
woods were afire far to the north and
west, but for this the dwellers on the
jNIiramichi cared little. The axe rang
in the depths of the forest, the harvest

was gathered in the settlements, and trade
nourished in the growing town of
Newcastle.

On I'riday, the 7th of October, the
townspeo])le observe<l a dark cloud above
the woods on the Northwest Rnmch,
but no a])prehension was felt. So little
thought was given to any danger by fire
that some believed that which was smoke
to be a rain cloud, and they rejoiced at
the prosjject of the refreshing showers by
which it would be followed. The twi-
light of that day was followed by a
darkness so deej) that those who were
abroad in the town had to grope their
way along the roads. A colored man,
named I're.ston, was ])reaching in one of
the houses, and a number of peoi)le had
gathere<l to hear him. During the
service they were disturbed by the loud
beating of a drum outside. They sup-
])osed it was in derision of the preacher,
and gave it little thought. The drum
was beaten by William Wright, who had
come from the lumber woods, and know-
ing that a great fire was sweeping over
the coimtry thus sought to warn the
l)eople of its approach I-'ew heeded the
warning.

The sermon was finished, and those
who had comprised the congregation
started for their homes. The night was
still very dark, for as yet no light from
the fire was visible in Newcastle, save the
outline of a lurid and seemingly distant
zone, which gave the people no intimation
of ])resent danger. The air was full of
smoke, the wind had increased to a gale,
and borne upon it was a hoarse roar, like
distant thunder. Suddenly a bright light
pierced the darkness, and a moment
later a .sheet of flame flashed from the
woods at the top of the hill. Near this
])lace was the new Presbyterian church,
the corner stone of which had been laid
by Sir Howard Douglas, a few months
before. It was the first building to take
fire, and it vanished ahnosl in an instant.
The wind had increased to a hurricane,
and the burning brands were carried
over the town, sjjreading destruction in
their path. There was no longer dark-

iiess, aiiil ill llu' awful liK'lit thf liTiilk'il
])e()i)k' wtTf set'ii liurryiiij^ for their lives
anil knowing ii<>t whort' to look for safely.
It is not straiij^e that iiiaiiy of theiii
believed the Day of JuilKineiit was at
hand, and piinic-stricken, ceased their
stnigjfles, to iini)lore mercy from Heaven.
On what is now the public stmare stood
the court house and jail. The court had
that day finished its assize, and several
prisoners had been sentenced. Two or
three had been condemned to death, and
one of them was a negro woman who had
murdered her child. When the fire burst
upon Newcastle the prisoners saw their
danger, and a fearful shout, a wail of
supplication mingled with the agony of
despair, came from tlie windows of the
prison. Some men who were on the
street paused long enough in their flight
to burst open the outer door, but by the
time the ])risoners were at liberty a sei of
flame and smoke surrouniled them. The
woman ran out, but scarcely had she
cleared the portal when she fell to the
earth and yielded nj) her life to the flames
by which she was surrounded. The scene
at this awful hour defies description.
Half naked men and women, shouting
and shrieking, were fleeing for their lives,
some seeking only their own safety and
others striving to rescue those who were
helpless by reason of childhood, age or
infirmity. The greater portion fled to a
marsh west of the town, and among them
were several suffering from typhoid fever
and small-jiox. Few of the fugitives
attempted to save any of their worldly
goods. Uveii the money in the tills was
left untouched, and one man fled from
his house without stopping to take one of
a thousand silver dollars which it liad
required years for him to accumulate.
One man has told the writer that he
would have left a peck of doubloons un-
disturbed, so certain was he that the end
of the world had come. Others, less
excited, threw their money and valuables
in the river, and then sought safety for
themselves. Some tried to escape by
crossing the Miramichi on sticks of tim-
ber, but as the river was like an angry

sea many met a death in its waters. An
entire family, consisting of husband,
wife and several children were .-imoiig
those ilrowiied. In another instance, at
Harlibogue, one girl was the survivor of
a family of nine who perished in the
flames.

The fury of the fire made its duration
brief after its further ])rogress was checked
by the bro;id river. In three hours New-
castle and the .settlements in the vicinity
were in ashes. Ou\y one or two luiildings
in the town escajjcd. .\t DoiiJ^lastown
the only house sjjared was that in which
lay a corjise awaiting burial.

Those who were in the woods have told
how they owed their escape to their taking
refuge in the river and plunging their
heads beneath the water from ininiite to
minute during that terrible iiiglit. .-Ml
around them, in some instances, were
alike the fiercest and most timid beasts of
the forests, harmless and trembling in
their terror of a common datiger. Ivven
the water was but a partial refuge, for so
hot was it in the shallow jjlaces that
myriads of fish were literally cooketl to
death.

Briefly stated, the Miramichi fire was
one of the greatest of which the world
has any record. It swept over the
country, from the head waters of the
river, in a sheet of flame one hundred
miles broad, and burned all before it in
an area of more than four thousand
stjuare tniles, four hundred miles of which
was settled country. It will never be
known how many lives were lost. Cooney
says there were one hundred and sixty,
but as many who perished in the woods
were strangers without kindred to trace
their disappearance the estimate is un-
doubtedly a low one. Whole families
were destroyed, and hundreds made
homeless and destitute, though abundant
relief came to them later, not only from
the Hritish possessions but the Inited
States. Apart from the incalculable loss
in the forests, the fire destroyed about a
million dollars' worth of jiroperty, in-
cluding six hundred houses and nearly
nine hundred head of cattle. The light

of it WHS seen :is far us tlu- Mi^^clak'n l)elifve<l by those at a distance to lie

Islands, and its einders were si'allered halls of fire rained from tlie heavens

over the streets of Halifax. In the in token of the AlniiKhly's wrath,

fury of the hnrrieane hnj{e tree tops No element of horror whieh the mind

and hurninyj roofs were whirled hi^li conld eonceive was wantiiiK in that

in the air, and as they deseeiided were fearfnl scene.

.If.O.XG THE I.I.\E

Inteicohuiial Route

Miramichi to Moncton

]•; A \' I N c,
X c w I' ast li-
for points
south, llu-
M i raniirlii
hriil^c'S an.'
crossed.
They are fine
slrnclnres,
each liavMi^;
a leiitflh of
1, 200 feel,
and span the Northwest and vSonlhwesl
branches a little above the nnion of the
two streams.

I'"roni Chatham Jnnction to I'redericton
by the Canada Ivastern railway is loS
miles. .\lonj.; this ronte, and in the
country on each side of it, are some fine
fishinj,' rivers and j^reat huntiiif; j,'ronntls.
Hoiestown, for instance, may be said to
he in the centre of a siiortsman's conntry,
l'"nrlher reference to the resonrces o{ this
part of the province will be fonnd in
Connection with what is said of I'rederic-
ton and the Canada Ivistern line.

IJetween Miramichi and Moncton the
Intercolonial railway passes throuj^h a
country that does not show its merits
when sim])ly seen from the car windows.
The line is so far from the shore that
none of the llourishinti; settlements are
seen, .-md the traveller j^ets a wronff im-
pression of what is a really fine ])art of
New Brunswick. There is a rich farming
and fishinjj; district all alon;^ the coast, and
there are st)me good rivers, of which only
the head waters are crossed by the rail-
way. The Richibucto is one of these,
and the village of the same name, twenty-
seven miles from Kent Junction, is reached
by the Kent Northern railway. It has
much to connneiul it as a smnnier resort.
The bathing and boating privileges are un-

limilcd, and the scenery is never marred
by the ])reseiice of fog. The village of
St. I.oiiis, sevi'U niiks distant, is noted as
a resort for the sick and infirm, who seek
the healing waters of a grotto in the
nature of the. faincil one of Our I.ady of
I.ourdes, and return to their homes with
their allliclious banished, 'file vicinity of
KichiluK'to affords many other walks and
drives of interest, while all kinds of game
invite the s])orlsman, and fine fishing is
found oil the river and in the harbor.

The hunting grounds of Kent county
lie to the westward of the Intercolonial
railway, and the most convenient ])()int
from which to reach them is Kent Junc-
tion. f)n the grounds between the head
waters of the Kouchibouguac and Richi-
bucto rivers and the heads of the branches
of Salmon river as many as forty-seven
caribou have been seen in one drove.
Moose are also abundant in this region
and to the westward in Queen's county.

In the fifty miles or so for which the
Intercolonial runs through Kent county
no traveller would suspect that over half
a million pounds of mackerel and con-
siderable more than that amount of
lobsters were sent away from the places
along the shore during the course of a
season. The last returns of the smelt
fishery give the c|uautity sent from Kent
as 2, 793, (XX) pounds, which is the best
showing of any of the counties. All the
fisheries of Kent are valuable, and a very
large business is done in canned goods.

Moncton and the Bore

Twenty-five years ago Moncton had a
poi)ulation of less than 2,000, but it has
been making very rapid strides in everv
year since that time. It is now a city of
some 1 i,cx)oor 12,000 i)eople, and probablv
of more than this if there were included

ill till- emniiL'riilioii a \.\r^v iiiitiiliiT who
rc'iilly t)i'li(ii)^ 1(1 Mointdi. Iml ri'sidi-
iiiitsidi.' of tlif I'oiporali.' limits. Tliis in
iiu-rely an fsliiiiiitc Tlic cfiisus of iSi^i
j,'iui; till- I'ity j)o]iiilatioii :is S,7().>, hiil lliis
was as aj;aiiisl 5,(i.v in iSSi, showing an
iiicrfase of more lliaii ;.( jier cent, in ten
years. This was a ^'reater ratio of
increase than was shown (Uirin>{ llie same
l)erio(l in any ])lai-e In the Maritime I'rov-
inees, witii the exeei)tions of SjiriiiKhill
Mines and Varni'/iith, Nova Scotia.
AUowiii); the saiiie steady increase since
iSyi, the population to-day would he
really in excess of the estimate given.
In the ])eriod named the amount of capital
invested in industries was more tlian
douhled. It is a place of j.;reat ])()ssil)ilities
and itajjpears to he livinj,'U]) to them.

The fact that the j^'eiieral ofiices and
workshops of the Iinerc<ilonial railway
are at Moncton has had an important
hearinj.? on the pros])erity of the city, out
a])art from thii. Moncton has taken
advantage of its o|)])ortunities and has
done a great deal for itself. The people
have shown an enterjirise hased on their
faith in the future of the i)liice. Some of
the inchistrial undertakings are on a large
scale, and there are few jilaces where
building operations are carried on year
by year in the same j)roportion. Many
of the .structures, public and private, are
of noticeably fine aj)pearance.

The buildings of the Intercolonial
railway are a conspicuous feature of the
place. The large structure used for the
general offices is one of the first to meet
the eye of a stranger on arriving. The
new passenger station is an exceedingly
handsome building of buff brick with
red freestone trimmings, and is thoroughly
modern in its appointnients within and
without. The interior is beautifully
finished, and the whole structure is not
only ornate 1)Ut artistic.

Moncton has a special attraction for
tourists who are fond of .seeing the curious
in nature. It is "the bore" of the
I'etitcodiac, a phenomenon that is to be
seen every time the tide comes in, though
sometimes it is seen iu much better

advantage than at others. In order to
understand what "the bore" is, one
must h.'ive an i<lea of the relation of the
river to tile Hay <if I-'undy, and of the Hay
of l''iind\' to the .\tlaiilic ocean. .\11 three
are necessary to I'olislitute the bore as it
is seen twice in every twenty-four hours
at Moncton.

'i'he Micmacs called this river the I'et-
koat-kwee-ak, meaning a river that bends
in a bow, and .Moncton itself \v ;s<jriginally
called "The lietid." In I'ourse of lime
the name of the ri\er assumed a I'reiich
form, and as a matter of easier siielling
and |)r(>nnnciation the inoderni/.ed form
is )irobably more acceptable to the general
public than tin- original would be. It is
one of the rivers that dei)en(l verv much
oil the tide for their im])ortance. In fact,
when there is no tide the river goes out of
business for all pniclical ])uri)oses, and
only shows what a chance there would be
for a river if there were enough water to
fill the yawning hollow between the two
banks. There is some water, i' is true,
but the quantity looks to be .so small as
it Hows along the channel, with the
hundreds of feet of slo])ing banks of red
mud on each sitle, that it is scarcely
worth considering. There are miles of
this smooth, slijijjery mud, inclined at an
angle of rejjosc, and for several hours of
each day the vessels at the wharves are
as clear of the water as if they were in a
hay field. This is the way the Petitco<liac
a])i)ears when the stranger goes to see the
bore.

Ill the meantime, however, the tidal
wa\ e of the Atlantic has struck the coast
of North America, and pouring into the
Hay of I'undy has risen higher and
higher as its volume has beconie com-
pressed by the narrowing shores. Reach-
ing the head of the bay, it is forced into
the estuaries, and at high water has risen
a distance of from twenty-five to fifty
feet, the height varying with the si)ring
and neap tides at various seasons. In
the Shubenacadie river, Nova Scotia,
there are sometimes sixty feet tides. The
fact that there are such tides, and that
they enter some of the river.s with a bore,

«3

t^ave risi' to sdiiic oxtraordiiiary statf-
iiKMits in till' old tiiiR' )ii.-()}rra])liifs, and,
indeed, in works which wi'io standard
anlhorities. It was tin- hidiof of many
pi'oplf in (illu'r lands that the tides of the
I!a_v of l'"undy rose lo a heij;hl of i Jo feet,
becanse the Ivneyelo]H'dia Hrilanniea said
they di<l, and one of the j^a'd^rajihers
declared that this ]>rodi.!;ions Hood conld
he seen when thirlv miles distant, ap-
proaehinj; the shore in one tremi'ndons
wave and with a nii.nhty noise.

The stranger who looks for anything
like this will he disa])])ointed. The tide
t.'ikes its time to rise, 1)nt after it enters
the wide month of the I'etiteodiac it
meets with a cheek to its rei^nlar (low by
the narrowin.ic of the river alxait I'ij^dit
nules below Moncton. 'i'he Hood does
not j)anse, bnt comes thron,t,'h the narrow
s])ace in a hmry, rollinij itself uj) the
river in a wave which looks like a rapidly
advancing; wall of water. This is the
bore. The heij.;ht of it varies according
to the conditions bv which the outside
ti<lal wave is jfoverned. There are
occasions when it is a bore of only one
or two feet, bnt at sp.rinj; tides, at the
ftdl moon, there may be a wave of from
seven to ten feet liijj;b, or possibly
hif^her. It is seen with peculiar efTect
by niooiiii,t(lit. On a still snnnner ni.nlit
those who are waitinj; on the wharves
high above the bed of the river hear in
the distance a low rumbling which
becomes a roaring as the -nds ])ass.

When the bore comes in sight the
contrast between the advancing Hood .and
the bare t)ed of the river suggests, for a
moment, the old Bilile ]iictin-es ot the
Red Sea divided for the jjassage of tlie
Children of Israel, or rather the closing
of that sea after the cho.sen ])eo])li' had
])asse<l over. In another moment the
foaming, rushing volume of water has
covered the channel and risen high u])
on the banks. .Another wave follows,
and ere long what w.is Imt a little wliile
before a muddy hollow is a broad and
Ih vUtifnl river, glistening like molten
silver in the moonlight.

* " l'lilce-NoiiKiKl!i..irc <<( Ni w llniiisw iik,
Ca-iiuUi, i'w/>.

There are tinu's wlnn the bore is disap-
pointing to those who have been led to
ex])ect too much, hut under anything
like favorable conditions it is a sight well
deserving of a stranger's time and trouble.
In months when ;he s])ring tides are f\ill
it is worth going a long distance to see.

Hnctouche, thirty-two miles from
Moncton by the Hnctouche and Moncton
railway, and twenty miles from Richi-
bucto, has a k)ng established fame for
the excellence of its oysters. It has a
fine harbor, and with a good f.irming
country behind it has many natural
advantages as a snnnner resort. It .attracts
many visitors every season.

Seven nules beyond Moncton. on the
line of the Intercolonial, is I'ainsec Junc-
tion, from which a l)ranch of the railwav
runs to Shediac, nine miles, and Point du
Chene, eleven iiiiles. At this junction
the traveller changes cars to take the
steamer which rims between Point du
Chene and Sunnnerside, Prince Ivdward
Island, during the season of navigation.

The stranger who knows something of
the I'riMich langu.ige natur.illy falls into
the popular error of su]>])osing that the
n.iine of Painsec has some reference to
'■ dry bread." It is, however, a corrui)-
tion of Pin sec, or "dry i)ine," and the
])lace was formerly known as Pine Hill.*

Shediac and Point du Chene

The Shediac oysters have a long estab-
lished reputation on account of their
excellent (jiiality, for there are oysters
anil oysters, and while all are good some
of them are better than others, accoriling
to the locality in which they are found.
vShediac has more than its oysters to
reconnneml it, however, for it is one of
the most ])leasant of the summer resorts
on this shore. The village is prettily
situated, while the harbor is a beautiful
sheet of water, about a mile ami a half
wide, and from three to live miles long.
All ar.)imd it is a smooth and gently
slo])ing sand beach, alTording I'verv facil-
ity for bathing in the jileasantly warm
water. Hath houses have been erected

liv nr. \V. 1'. I'.aiioiii;. in 'rnin*. Kowil Soik-lv ul'

C.1

e.
^1
hf
hi
.\|
iJ
h|

«4

for tliosi' who (k'sire tlieiii, aii<l though
till' \v:il(.'r is till' sail sea from the C.iilf
there are no imder-tows to ]ilav Irieks
>i])i)ii the \ve;ik and unwary. Tliere are
neither sciualls nor rou.nh seas in the
harlior, and it is a s])lendid eruisint;
jjroiinil for pleasure hoats. Shediae
Island, a short distance away, is niueh in
favor for pleasure ])arties. A visit to the
Cai>e, one of the ])rettiesl jilaces in the
vieinity, will well re])ay one for the
tronhle.

I'oint du Chene, two miles helow
.Shediae, is the deep water terminus and
])ort of slii])tnent. Here, in the snnuuer,
may he seen lar^e numhers of s(iuare-
rijjged vessels, loading with Inmher for
])laces across the ocean. Daily coimnnni-
cation is had with Prince Ivdward Island
by steamer. .Ml that has been said of
Shediae a])|)lies with ecpial force to the
I'oint, and the latter has for the tourist
additional advantages. The view from
the shore on a calm sninnar day is one
which cannot fail to charm. Add to this
the fresh, invigorating hree/es from the
water, with excjllenthathing and boating,
and Point du Chene is one of the j)laces
to be sought as a (|uiet, hea'.thful antl
restful retreat,

A great deal of c|uiel enjoyment may
be had from the trout fishing in this
vicinity. The streams most sought by
the Hiigler are the Shediae and the
Scadonc. On the former, good places
are found at Hateman's mill, four miles
from the village, and at (Gilbert's mill,
two miles beyond. Hetween these places
and Point du Chene sea trout may be
caught, weighing three and fom- ])ounds
each. I"ishing begins in the latter part of
Mav, and the lly ])referred is the red
hackle. Down the shore good fishing is
had ;it Dickey's mill, three miles, and at
.\boushagaii, eight miles distant, (iood
iiass and mackerel fishing is had in the
harbor and olT the island, in the fall. In
September and October three and four
I -.lund bass can be caught from the wharf
at Point du Chene.

Oysters, of course, are abundant, while
sea-clams, mud-clams and lobsters are

found everywhere along the shore.

Plover shooting begins on the isl of
Sejiteml" . and good success is had on
the shor. from Point du Chene to
liarrachois, a range of about four miles.
The shore is also ;i gotxl ])lace for geese,
brant anil ducks, in the s])ring and fall,
and another good shooting ground is at
Oraiid Digue, about eight miles distant
by road.

Hoard is very reasonable at and in the
vicinity of Shediae, and indeed in all ihis
l)art of tlie ])rovince.

The tour of Prince Ivlward Island will
be described further on in these ])ages.
h'or the jiresent it will lie assumed that the
tourist has returned from Point (hi Chene
to Painsec Junction and resumed his
journey to Xova Scotia. .\fter leaving
the Junction he eiitiMs uiion a fine farming
country, which bicomes more settled and
much better cultivated along the line of
railway as he ])roceeds.

Dorchester and Sackville

Memramcook, nineteen miles from
Moncton, is a ])ros])erous district, chielly
peopled by the Acadian I'rench. \\.
College Hridge, two miles beyond Mem-
ramcooV; station, is St.Josejih's I'liiversity,
with other institutions, undei' the charge
of the P'athers of the Congregation of the
Holy Cross, which has been a powerful
f.ictor in the education of the .\cadian
peo])le. The gentle slo])e of the valley
gives an achnirable location for the
grounds and buildings.

Dorchester, twenty-seven miles from
iSIoncton and twenty-one from .\niherst,
is the .shiretown of Westmorland county
and a ])lace to which the jirovince is
indebted for .some of its distingu.shed
sons, on the bench, at the bar, and in
])olitical life It has also given New
llnmswick out of its governors. The
\ illage is jileasantly situated on the high
ground above the valley through which
the railway runs, and has a large hotel,
moiiern in its a]>pointineiits and designed
to meet th" naiit summer tourists.

The conveiiie of Dorchester to the
tidal waters allows of excellent oiijior-

tuiiilies for balhinj,' aloii.LC tlu' Nhorc of
the harbor, and a miiiihur of the lea(liii<,r
residents have erected hath houses there.
Th-j beach is a jjood one and the water of
a very agreeable temperature.

In approachiiiji Dorchester the Mari-

A'OCAS A T HOPFAVr.l.l. i .l/V.

time Penitentiary bnildin<is are .seen on
the hill near the villaj^e. Thisiiistitnlion
is for convicts from the Maritime I'rov-
inces, Dorchester beinj; a central point
in relation to New Ihnnswick, Nova
Scotia and I'rince Ivdward Island.

I''leven miles beyond Dorchester is
Sackville, a very thriving; villaj^a' which
extends alonj; the main hij^diway for a
distance of several miles. The population
of the jiarish is over five thousand, about
half of which may be credited to the
villaj,'e, which is
ra])idly advancinjr.
The natural advan-
tages of this i)art
of the country for
agricultural p n r-
])oses is verv great,
and farming is
carried on w i t h
great s u c c e s s.
Some of the finest
cattle in the eastern
part of America are
raised here, for
nature has made
the lands at the
head of the Hay <if
I'undy a(la])ted to
the needs of vast
herds of live stock.
He.'e and there,
on the way from

(Moncton, the tra-
veller has caught
glim])ses of broad
stretches jaf ver-
dant marsh mead-
ows. W h e n h e
leaves vSackville he
begins to realize
the extent of them
in this part of the
world. The thous-
ands of acres which
he sees are but a
small portion of the
ever fertile areas
which are found
around the head of
the Hay of b'undy,
and which have been a rich heritage to
its people from the earliesL days. Some
idea of their extent and value will
be given a little later, in connection
with the country between Sackville and
Amherst.

/iilt-i(itli)iiial KoHle

The ^lelliodist eiUicational insliliitioiis, while aj^aiii there will he stretches of
for both sexes, are iiii])()rtaiit features of lolly — a mixture of broken ice and water
Sackville. They are si)leiuli(lly ec|ui])pe<l — throuj^h which some exj)ert knowledj^e
for their work, and their j^raduates ;ire and a])])lied muscular eiierjiy are re(|uired
found to the front amoiijj; the jirofessioual in order to force a passage. The iceb.oat
and head men of the jirovinces. The which is in use is a very different kind of
r n i V e r s i t y of
Mount Allison Col-
lege, the Acadi'niy
a n (1 Commercial
College, the Ladies'
College, Owens
Institute and Art
CoiiServatory of
Music, all have a
liberal patronage
and are doing a
large amount o f
work.

The Xew lirmis-
wick and Prince
l'',dward I s 1 a n <1
railway runs from
Sackville to Cape
Tormentine. Hefore
a suitable steamer
ran from I'iclou to
the Island the only
method of convey-
ing mails and pas-
sengers in winter
was by me;uis of
ice boats between
the Capes, a journey
always attended
with excitement
and often with
danger. The dis-
tance across is nine
miles, and between
the two shores, in
cold weather, lies a
formidable barrier
of broken and ir-
regular ice liehls,
through which no
vessel can ])ass, an

A'( )( A'.v .1 •/■ //( )/'/; ;( 1:1. 1. ( .1 /'/■;

/f/f('riit/(tf/j'ti/ KoH\.e

ver which no land
vehicle can tr.ivel. Drift ice from the ( lulf
of >St. Lawrence adds to the accunuilation,
and jiiles it up in lunnmocks like those
encountered in the .Vrctic regions. In
some places there will be open water.

a crafi from the iceboat as understood on
the great rivers and lakes. The latter is
really not a boat but a ])latforin on run-
ners, equipjied witii a sail and cajiable of
Hying over the frozen surface at a high
rale of speed. The ice boat of the Strait

is aclually a hoal. i-oiistnictt'd with ^pt'cial
reference to the work it has to do. It is
aht)iit eighteen feet loiii;, five feet lieaiii
and a little over two feet deeji. The
(iesijfii is to combine strcnf^th with li.i,'ht-
liess, and so the stout frame has a coverinjj
of cedar boards sheathed with sheet tin.
The two keels, shod with iron, act as
runners on the ice. On each side of the
boat are straps, and by the aid of these
the boat is <lnij.;,t;e(l over the fro/en surface.
In this work all able bodied jias.senfrers
have to do duty with the re.i^ular crew or
pay for the exemption. Ladies and
invalids are allowed to remain in the boat.
When the open water is reached, all
climb aboard and the oars are used.
When the conditions of the ice and water
are favorable the journey between the
Capes is made in less than four hours,
hut there are occasions when a much
longer time is reepiired. The exjierienccd
men in charge of the boats know when it
is safe or not safe to attempt the ])assage,
an<l thus it is that while there have been
some i)erilous journeys, due to sudden
snow storms and the like, and occasions
when a boat has been rejiorted as lost,
there have been no fatalities since the
year 1855. At that time a boat got astray
and was missing for some days. One of
the j)assengerK died from exjiosure. .\t
the present lime the journey is a safe one.
and to one who does not mind a little
work it is an interesting exjierience.

The government steamers Stanley and
Minto, constructed es])ecially for forcing
a passage through fields of ice, run
between I'ictou and (Teorgetown during
the w inter. There are occasions when tliev
cannot make the jiassage, however, and
then the mails and pas.sengers are sent by
the j)riniilive ice boats between the Cajjes.
The ice boat service is maintained bv
the Canadian Government.

Cape Tormentine is a more inviting
place in the summei' for those who want
to enjoy the sea breezes than it is for
those who journey i.here in the wiater.

Local sportsmen find fair goose and
duck shooting aroMiid the lakes in the
vicinity of Sackville, while thev tell of

some good bags of siii])e and ]ilover in the
])n)per season.

Leaving Sackville, the road takes its
way over the rich salt water meadow
known as Tintaniarre Marsh for several
miles, close to the he .d of the Hay of
I'undy. .\ulac station was the point at
which the Haie Verte canal would have
started had it been built. The Isthmus
of Chiguecto at this point is a little over
eleven miles wide ""rom water to water,
and it is not twenty miles from one
anchorage to the other. The country is
well settled between the two shores, and
its pe:)ple include progressive farmers
who have learned to regard agriculture
as a science.

.\ word of caution as to ])roper names
may not be out of place here. If the
stranger wants to talk to the ])eople about
the marsh he will save himself from
correction by calling it "Tantramar,"
though there is no reason why the French
" Tintaniarre " should ever have been so
corrupted. In the same way lUiot's
Hridge — "Pont a Hu.-it," — is known only
as I'oint de liute, while Jolicieur will be
Jolicure to the end of lime. The early
luiglish settlers here had little patience
with the I'rench or their nomenclature,
and the I'rench themselves have long
since dejiarled from the laud.

They did not go without a struggle.
Just beyond .\ulac is the ruined moini-
ment of the last days of their occupancy.
It is all that is left of the solidly built
b'ort Beausejour. erected nearly a century
and a half ago, when the thriving settle-
ment of Heaubassin had 2,500 communi-
cants and was the largest in Acadia. One
may still staml within its solid casemates,
or trace the 1)astioiis which have thus far
resisted the hand of time, and he may
]K)nder on the last struggle of the I'rench
regime to hold its own against the invad-
ing forces of ICngland. The im])ortance
of the Isthmus between the ])rovinces
was recognized only when it was out of
tlie ])ower of its holders to retain it.
This fort had accommodaticni for eight
hundred men, and had what was, in those
(lavs, an elaborate system of outworks.

It was taken hy Ct)l. Monctoii, ill June,
1775, and with its fall the strufrj^k- in
Acadia was at an end. The ICnjilish ijave
the ])lace the name of I'ort Cuniheiland.
As the years rolled hy it was suffered to
fall into decay, and now only the rui)is
remain.

Within a cannon shot to the south is
the site of I'ort Lawrence, which was
huilt and occujiied hy the Kiijflish. It is
only the site, for the j^round is now a well
tilled farm, and not a trace of the ori.vjinal
works is left to remind one of its story.

Near Fort Lawrence may he seen the
western end of what was intended to he
the Chij^necto shij) railway. The work
was he}.;un and carried on for several
years, but it was finally abandoned. Tlie
design was to carry vessels of any si/.e over
the seventeen miles of isthmus between
the 15ay of I*undy and the CTulf of St.
Lawrence. The vessels were to be raised
from the docks by hydraulic lifts, con-
veyed on trucks over the railway and
placed in the waters hy a reversal of the
process by which they were lifted in the
first instance.

" .\t Chiinctou there are man\- large
and beautiful meadows, extending farther
than the eye can reach," wrote l'"alher
Pierre Biard, the Jesuit missionary, when
he made !i visit to the head of the Hay of
Fundy, in the year 1612. It is as true of
this jiart of the country to-day, and the
vast areas of natural snlt marsh have been
greatly increased during the ])resent
century. Even at the present day the
work of adding to these marshes has been
continued, uikI in 1.S97 a canal was dug
near Point de Bute with the <lesign of
adding about 2, coo acres by making fer-
tile fields of the mossy and un])roductive
land.

The meadows, locally known as
marshes, at the head of the Hay of h'undy
have no etpial on the continent. Hefore
the traveller crosses the boundary river
I\Iissiguash, separating the two provinces,
lie has ])assed hy ioo,txx) acres of them in
the last forty miles of his journey through
New Hrunswick, and, when he reaches
Amherst, he is in the vicinity of 70,0^)0

more, of which 40,000 are close at hand.
Many thousands of these have been
reclaimed from the sea in recent times,
but the greater i)ro])ortiou has been
steadily mown for the last two hundred
years. .\ marsh, once established, is
always fertile. It needs no manure save
that supi)lied by nature in the deposit of
rich alluvium which is left when the
turbid tides are allowed to overflow the
land. It is said that fimr inches of this
muddy sediment, supplied in layers of
perhaps a tenth of an inch at any one
tide, will insure abun<laiit crops for a
century. One of tlie Cumberlaii<l marshes
is known as the Ivlysian h'ields, but all
of it may be termed a bovine paradise.
The famous Westmorland and Cumber-
land cattle here revel in rich grasses in
which their hoofs are hidden from sight,
and here are supjilied the bone and sinew
of the horses in which the farmers
delight. ;\Iarsh land is worth from #100
to |;2(X) an acre, according to the care that
has been given it, and three tons of hay
to the acre is a common yield. If need
were, much more than hay might be
produced from tlie.se fertile fields, but,
under existing conditions, the old-time
staple is the most i)rofit:d)le to the farmer.
His m.irsh is a bank which insures him
more than compound interest, and can
never fail.

All along the shores of the territory
traver.se<l by the Intercolonial railway
from the Restigouche to the head of the
Hay of Fundy, within the limits of the
jirovince of New Hrunswick, are sjilendid
fisheries. vSome references have already
been made to these in the counties along
the Kaie de Chaleur, but a summary of
.some of the leading fisheries in the area
named may be of interest.

The value of the fisheries in this district
in a recent year was more than #3, 1 75,000.
Of herring alone the value was upwards
of 5890,01x1, while nearly two million
j^ounds of salnion, fresh, canned and
smoked, had a value of about #.183,000.
Nearly eight million ])ouii(ls of smelts
were caught, with a value of over
1381,000, while the catch of cod was

iS,29<),rx)ci pounds with a value of more
tlian I373.0U;). Of lobsters the harvest
was nearly three million ])oun(ls, the
greater ])ortion of wliieli were canned by
the ifc'o canneries aloiij,' the coast. The
lobster fishery employed over 4,(xk) hatnls.
There were more than in.oikj barrels of
oysters, valued at ujiwanls of :}-2.tH<i).
Besides those already named there were
larjje (|uantities of all the other fish found
on these coasts. Over jjCi .(kxi.ckki is
invested in boats, buildings and c(|ni])-
ment for carrying on these fisheries, and
the value is increasing every year.

Amherst and Vicinity

When the Nova Scotia census was t.iken
in iSfii the population of the whole ]).iri^h
of Amherst was 2,767. In 1.S71 it was

vicinity is nuich in favor for building
l)ur])oses in variou.s ])arts of Canada, and
orders for it come from as far west as
Ottawa. The (juarries are within a short
distance of the town.

.\nilierst is a busy manufacluring place,
and among the imi)orlant establishments
are c.ir works, engine and machine works,
an extensive boot and shoe factory, a
casket factory, foundries, ])laning mills,
saw mills and many other nourishing
industries. These increase vear by year.
In the two years ])receding iSgi the
number of establishments was nearly
doubled. More than twice as many
persons were emjiloyed in that j-ear than
there had been in i88r, while the capital
invested jumped from f.*^! ,01x3 to ^(^457, 000.
The business portion of the town is com-

AM/fF.KST. .\.S.

but a little over 3,000, but after the com-
pletion of the Intercolonial railway
between St. John and Halifax, in 1S72,
the town began to grow at a faster rate,
and of recent years the growth has been
a steady and very rapid one. The
increase in population between iS.Sr and
1S91 was at the rate of more than 66 jier
cent. At the present time Amhenst tow 11
alone has a population of about 5,000,
and is a place which shows evidence of
its progress on every hand. The stranger
who visits it at intervals of a year or two
finds fresh indications of the growth an<l
prosperity of the town every time he
comes. New and substantial buildings
are to be seen each year, and some of
these are noticeably handsome structures
of stone. The freestone found in the

lutei colonial Route

])aclly built and contains some liand.some
blocks. The whole a])pearance of the
town is business like, yet .\mherst is a
very desirable place from a residential
point of view. The location is a plea.sant
one on gently rising grouiul, and the
centre of the town is sufficiently near the
railway to save trouble and yet not
enough to have discomfort from the noise
and bustle of the station yard. The
])rivale residences show good taste as well
as a regard for comfort, and every street
has its flower gardens, which show care-
ful attention on the part of their pos-
sessors. The adjacent countrj- abounds
with flourishing settlements which make
Andierst a centre, and even the villages
across the border of New Hrunswick favor
it largely with their custom.

Tile o])i)()rtiiiiilies for pleasant drives
around Aniliers!. and \icinily are numer-
ous. One of these whieli must interest
the student of Canadian history is tliat
to the ruins of I'ort Cumlieriand, the
Heausejour of the days of tile l''rench occu-
pation. I'roiii this ])oint tliere is a fine
view of the hay and of tl'.e surroinidinsi
country for miles. .\ iri]) to Haie Verte
and vicinity will also jjrove of interest,
and, indeed, as the country is well settled,
and good farms meet the eye in every
part, it is hard for one to take a drive
which will not afford ])leasure.

Tidnish, on the shore of Xorthumher-
laiid Strait, seventeen miles from Amherst
by the highway, is much in favor locally
as a seaside resort, and is a deliglUfiil
place during the summer months. There
is good bathing, boating and fishing, and
a number of the residents of .-\mherst
have summer cottages there. The beach
is of sand and |)ermits the l)ather to go
out a half or three-<iuarters of a mile from
the shore. The fishing is cliiedy for black
bass, ling and trout. Pugwash, another
summer resort, will be referred to later.

The .shore to the eastward abounds
with duck and geese at the ])ro])er seasons.
This part of the country is well settled
and has some fine harbors. Moose are
found among the mountains to the south
of Amherst, and in other places not far
away. The east branch of River Philip,
in one direction, and .Shulee and Sand
rivers, in another, are both moose
grounds.

The best fishing to be had is at West-
chester Lake, which is reached by going
to Westchester station, from which a
drive of five miles brings one to Purdy's
hotel. Here there is capital accommoda-
tion. The lake is about six miles beyond
this, a pretty sheet of water, which
contains very gamey salmon trout.

The government experimental farm is
situated at Nappaii, a few miles beyond
Amherst, and the next station is Maccaii,
where the Nova Scotia coal fields begin
to show themselves. .\ branch railway
connects the Intercolonial with the Jog-
gins Mines, which have a heavy annual

out-|)ut, and beNond tlie;ii is Minudie,
famous for its grindstones. Heyoiid
Maccaii is Athol, from which one may
take the stage for Parrsboro .'lud have a
drive through a very beautiful country.
If he prefer to go to the latter place by
rail, he can leave the Intercolonial at
Springhill Junction and make a journey
of thirty-two miles on the Cumberlaiul
railway. On the way he may stop at
the vSjiringhill Mines, where he will get
ail idea of what a Nova Scotia coal mine
can yield.

The coal fields of the county of Cum-
berland have an annual output of ajiprox-
imately half a million tons, by far the
greater portion of which is from the
mines at Springhill. The quantity raised
at these mines in 1S96 was 411,320 tons,
and more than a thousand jjersons were
employed in the work. Yet it is only
within the last quarter of a century that
these mines have been worked on a large
scale, and there are many now living
who can remember when only a few
small houses and a country store stood
on the ground where there is uo\t a busy
town. The census of 1S91 gave the
figures of the population as 4,813. This
was an advance from the figures of 900 in
1S81, an increase of orer 434 per cent, in
ten years, which was not only the best
showing of any town in the Maritime
Provinces, but of any jilace in the
Dominion of Canada.

The most terrible mine explosion ever
known in this ])art of Canada occurred
here on the 21st of I'"ebruary, iSgi,
causing the loss of 125 lives, and sending
sorrow into many hundreds of homes.
Had it not been for the promj)t relief
sent from cities and towns far and near
blank destitution would have been the
fate of the most of the stricken widows
and orphans. The town has also been a
heavy sufferer by fire, but it emerges
from its troubles only to take a fresh
start and continue in its raj)id develop-
ment.

Parrsboro, reached by rail from Spring-
hill Junction, is on the shore of the Hasin
of Miiias, ami has many attractions for

the tourist who wants (|uiL'l enjoyiiRMit.
Partridj^e Islaiul is an iiiiposinj^ lu'adlaiid
in the vicinity of tlic villaj^e, from wliich
there are fine views of the llasin and the
surronndin^ conntry. An attractive
point for excnrsions is Five Islands.

Tliirleen miles to the north and west of
Parrsboro around Sand and Shnlee rivers
is found some of the best caribou and
moose liuntinj; in Nova Scotia. Here
there is a large area in wliich, from the
middle of September to the last of
January, an abundance of shooting may
be had, both of this game and of bears.
Nearer to Parrsboro are large numbers of
partridge, so plenty, indeed, that as

Jiiuction, a branch of the Intercolonial
runs to I'iclou by way of lirown's Point, a
distance of sixty-nine miles. l''roiii
Hrown's Point, also, the railway goes to
Stellartoii, twelve miles, on the Truro and
Mulgrave division. I^'rom this ])oint the
traveller can continue on to Ca])e Hreton,
connecting with the ex])ress from Truro.

l''ifteen miles from Oxford Junction, on
the Oxford branch, is I'ugwash Junclioii,
from which ])lacea branch five miles long
runs to Pugwash harbor and village.
The distance from .\niherst is lifiy miles.

I'ugwash is already highly a])])reciated
as a summer resort, and probably has a
much greater future. The name is .said

PARTRIDGE ISI.A.XI). PARRSIiORO

many as thirty-two have been shot in one
afternoon. Geese, brant, ducks and
other sea-shore game are abundant
around the shores. This ])art of the
couiury always had a good reputation
for sport. Two hundred and fifty years
ago, it is written, game was so ])lenty
that the Indians of this part of Acadia
had so littje exertion to make in hunting
that they were considered sedentary in
their habits. They have also disa]ipeared,
but the game is still to be found.

Pugwash and Tatamagouche

At Oxford Junction, thirty miles from
Amherst and thirteen from Springhill

liilfiroloiiial Rniilf

to mean " deep water," and is no doubt
derived from the deep navigable harbor
by which the village is divided, and
which is commodious enough for vessels
of any size. Pugwash is a shipping port
of imi)()rtance with s])ecial reference to
the lumber trade, and in the days of
wooden ships had a re]>utation for its
shipbuilding. The harbor jjroper, which
opens into Xorthumberlaiid Strait, is a
mile in length, but as a matter of fact the
harbor runs inland for seven miles under
the title of the Pugwash River. In this
distance are a number of small islands,
and the scenery everywhere in the vicinity
is of a picturesque and inviting character.

The l),illiitijf hero is :ill tliiit can tit-
(li'siri'il, while \\n' opixu'luiiilies tor
liiiatini; can haidlx' he exeelleil. The
troiil li^liiiiv,' is \iT\- jrooil ill the vieinilv ,
ii|) Ihi' I'liLjwash River, al Wallace River
and al Carr's Hrook. There is plenty of
hass lishiiij< in An.niisl, and mackerel,
from two to seven pounds in weij^ht, can
he can>;ht al the hri<l.!,'e within a short
distance of the railwa\ station. As for
shootin.i,', ]);irtrid>^e are ahnndaiil and sea
fowl even more so in tlu'ir season.
l''aulke's Harliur, in i>a'-lieular, has a
reimtation for dncks, j^'eese ami hrant.

There are several hotels in I'u^iwash.at
which there is ver\' satisfactory aicommo-
dation at reasonahle rates. In addition
to these are a numher of ])rivate houses
in the villa;,;e and at rnj^wash Point
where excellent hoard can he secured.
Houses can also he had to lease hv those
who w isli to have homes of their own for
the season.

iMirther along the shore, at Wallace,
are the ([uarries from which the famous
Wallace freestone, one of the fmest of
huildinjf stones, is o))tained in large
quantities and shipped to many ])oiiits of
the compass. There is a fine harbor at
Wallace.

The railway runs so close to the shore
at Tatamagouche that the traveller may
see from the train the physical feature
from which it is ])ossil)le the j)lac . got
its name. The word Tatamagonche is
said to mean "like a dam," and a ridge
which rises from the water may have
suggested the idea to the jiractical mind
of the red man. This disjjoses of any
theory that the term was used iu a profane
sense. The Indians, neitlu r having to
team oxen nor put up stove pipes, had no
use forswear words. It is highly improh-
ahle that they ever said " tatamagouche '"
in the way of ironical comment. There
is, however, another theory that "Tata-
magouche" means a place where three
rivers meet. The traveller can take his
choice of the versions.

Much that has been said of Wallace
will a])ply to Tatamagouche. The village
lies between the Waugh and I'rench

rivers, and there are excellent facilities
for boating and bathing both on the
river and harbor shores. Some of the
most desirable b.ithing on this jiart of the
shore is at Siml Point, Chambers" Point
ami the Narrows, a land-loikid harbor
a mile from the village. .\l I'.lock-
lionse Point are the ruins of a block-
house built during the P'reiich occn])a-
tioii.

Tatamagouche Hay has a reputation for
its oyster beds, while clams ami lobsters
aree(|ually easy to find in this part of the
country. ( )f lobsters, indeed, nearly half
a million pounds are caniu'd along this
j>art of the (iulf shore in the courst' of a
season. Large sized trout are found in
all of the numerous lakes on the Cobecjuid
Mountains, within a few miles of the
village, and iu these mountains some
good shooting can be had in the fall o{
the year, jiartridge being very abundant.
The roads in the neighborhood are good
and lead to some beautiful bits of scenerv.
l'r(|uliart's I'alls, on the Waugh river,
are reached by a jjleasant drive, and there
are jiicuic grounds at Drysdale's I'alls, on
the wi'sl branch of the same stream.
P.oard may be h;id in the village, at the
hotel or in private houses at very moder-
ate rates.

River John, twenty-two miles west of
Pictou, is another pleasant ])lace for ([uiet
recreation and rest. Such jilaces as Ca])e
John, with its long beaches of white sand,
McDonald's Cove and Brule are within a
radius of five miles from the village. On
the way to Brule, on a September morn-
ing, hundreds of seals may be seen
sporting in the water close to the shore.
Then, too, there is fair fishing in River
John, while trout are found in great
abundance in all the lakes.

Apart from the attractions to he found
along the shore, this branch of the
railway runs through a settled country
where the land has long been tilled with
])rofit and the peo])le are of the substan-
tial farming class. It needs but a brief
glance by a stranger to note the abundant
evidence of the energy and thrift of the
owners of the soil.

Pictou

Till- l()\M\ of I'iclou, on llu- liailiof of
tliat iiaiiR', is a place with ahoiil .^..Sno
iiihiihilaiils, ami is an iiiipoitaiil sliii)])iiiK
poll. II is reached i-itlier liy llu; taihvay
from Oxford Jmu-tioii or from Stellarlon,
on IIr- line hetweun Truro and the Strait
of Cansi'aii. It is an old and siiltstanlial
town, with the hest harbor to he found
in this ]iart of Nova Si'otia. Risiiifr on a
hill as it does, it makes a fine api)earance
when viewed from the water, or from the
train as imv approaehes the station. A
eloser ins]ieetion sIkiws some handsome

Chark)tletown, while in the winter thi'
UDVernment steamers Stanley and Minto
make the ])assaj,'e hetweeii I'ietoii and
(leorj^etown.

I'ieton has lieeii menlioneil as an ohl
place, and nol)()il\' knows how lonj,^ it is
since the ahorij^dnes had a knowledf^e of
it as a locality. What is known is that
wood, fashioned by saxa^e im])lemenls,
has heen foinid in the earth over which
!.;rew trees that bore the rinj.j marks of
nearly three centuries. The Indians had
heen there lonj^ hefore that tree liegan
to ^''''W, for at a remote ])eriod their
anct'stors had feared the ])lace, hei'ause v)f

4r? . ■

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''*- ■ '■■^ t ■ ■ ,

1^ w ^.-

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H^.-^kAsA _.>-^iiC ^^^I,

■;*n ■•

^ A

^^BSSSSBit-

p/cror, FROM rill, iiakhok

Iittet colonial Roitle

public and jjrivate buildings. Vessels of
all sizes and rigs are in the harbor and at
the wharves, and the scene is altogether
an ins])iriting one. The town does a
large shipping business, and vast (|uan-
tities of coal are sent from here to jdaces
near and far. Trade of other kinds is
brisk, and large numbers of travellers
visit the place at all seasons. It is one
of the points of departure for Prince
Edward Island, both in .summer and
winter. During the summer a steamer
of the Charlottetown Steam Navigation
Company makes daily trips to and from

an ever burning fire. Therefore, they
called it" Hooktaoo " or " Ikicto," though
there are other theories as to the name.
The untutored mind did not understand
that a camp fire, a stroke of lightning, or
sjjontaneous combustion, had started a
flame in a coal seam, which burned from
one generation to another. It may sound
like an anecdote of (ilooscap, the cham-
pion liar of the Indians, but it is really
the statement of I'rof. li. C. Ilovey that
when he visited the .\lbion Mines, a
lunnber of years ago, an ancient bed of
ashes, with an area of two acres, still

rctaiiK'il the lual of llu- lirt- wliicli iiiust
have cimsimI to burn iumiIv Uini'ifiiliiiifs
before. It is pmbablu Ihal soiiio of ilie
heat lurks, tliere to Ihis day.

Some f^ood scenery may lie found in the
vicinity. An admirable view uf the sur-
rouuciiti)^ eotinlry and the waters to the
north and east may be enjoved from the
roof of the .\cademy. Drives in the
vicinity of Mast, West and Middle rivers
will also rejiay one. I'il/palrick's Moun-
tain i'tid Cireen Hill may be mentioned,
Mount anil another j^ood view is from
Thorn. .\nolher drive is down the
•shore to Caribou Point and between
Caribou river and River John. l''or
bathinj;, a jfood place is at Caribou Cove,
less than two nnles from the town, where
there is a fine sandy beach. Other j.;ood
bathing places may also be found with
little trouble. The country, with its low
land .lion,!.,' the shori's and hills and
valleys in the interior, its lakes and its
riven:, has many scenes of real beauty.

The lishintr in the vicinity is chieily
confined to trout. Salmon enter the
streams only in the s])awninjf se.ison,
about the first of vSeptember, and j^o out
before the ice bej^ins to form.

Harney's, h'rench and Sutherland
rivers and River John have j.{ood sea
trout during' the summer. Middle and
West rivers have small runs of trout,
but, taken as a whole, the rivers in the
vicinity have been pretty well " fished
out." Fine trout are, however, taken at
times in ]\Ia])le and ^IcOuarrie's Lakes.
Some ).;ood sport may be found in fishing
for mackerel, cod, etc., on the coast.

The country to the southward of I'ictou
has an abundance of moose, With good
guides, a trip from West river, through
(ilengarry, Stewiacke, Nelson's and
Sunny Hrae, and over to Caledonia or
Guysboro, should be attended with good
luck to the hunter. Caribou may also be
foiuid. Bears are plenty, and so are
])artridge. Along the shore, snipe, plover,
curlew, geese and all kinds of ducks are
found in large numbers.

Those who wish to visit the Magdalen
Islands will find a subsidized steamer

leaving I'icton once a week for that little
known part of the (lidf of St. Lawrence,
.■\n account of the M.igdaleus will be
found later on in these ))ages.

The famous I'icton coal (ields will be
dealt with in connection with the account
of the country along the line betwi'i'U
Truro and New Cilasgow.

Over the Hills to Truro

Resuming the jonrn.'y on the main
line, at Oxfonl Juiu-tion, the traxellcris
carrii'd o\er the Cobe(|uid Mountains,
and when he reaches I'oUeigh Lake he is
607 feet above the sea, if he stands 011 the
track, and somewhat higher if he is in
the upper berth of a sleeping car. This
is the highest ])oint on the Intercolonial,
with the excejttion of a sumnnt bexoud
the .Metapedia, and the air is ver\-
bracing. liefore the days of steam,
electricity ;iiul lawn tennis the i)eii])le in
this ])arl of Nova Scotia used to li\e to
an abnormally old age, and line sitecimens
of the old inhabitant are to be found in
everv settlement to this da\ . The
scenery among the mountains is more
than ])ictures(iue. The traveller can
su])ply his own adjectives, according to
the mood he is in and the state of the
weather. Sometimes the eye will catch
a i)astor.il ))icture of a wiinling valle\-,
dotteil with cottages in the tnidst of
fertile fields, while far below him a
glistening of watc-r tells where the river
Hows through the bright green intervales,
or leaps in fairy-like cascailes in its
journey down the hillside.

At other times the train passes through
long and dee]) cuttings, where the masses
of rock bear witness to the labor retjuired
to break down the barriers of nature.
Then again the road takes a short cut
from hill to hill, as at I'olleigh X'alley,
which is spanned by a viaduct six hun-
dred feet long and eighty-two feet above
the little stream which trickles below.

At Londonderry a branch railway runs
to the Acadia Iron Works, three miles
distant, the oiierations of which will be
of much intere.st to those not familiar
with the manufacture of iron from the

IMAGE EVALUATION
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f:,>i,;

ore. Stiifjc's also run to the minus, atul
to (ireat \'illa).;e, Ivconomy and l'"ive
Islands.

The Londonderry iron is said to he
.second in vahie only to the Swedish for
the niannfaetine of steel, and its well-
known slrenj.ftli causes the occurrence of
its name in the stii)ulations of many an
im])ortant contract.

The heffinnin.nsof Truroas a settlement
were humhle enouj.;h. It was settled in
1761 by a colony of natives of the North
of Ireland who had been livinj; in New
IIani])shire aiul were induced hv the
Ihitish j;()\ernmeut to come to this ])arl
of Nova Scotia to help to Iniild up the
country. They consiste<l of fifty-three
families, numhering one hundred and
twenty persons. .\t that period there was
little to he seen in this part of the country
hut woods, water and mud. The agents
of (it)vernor Lawrence had been so
zealous in their work of exterminatinj,;
the l''rench that even the score or two of
houses which had been scattered over this
part of the country had lij^lUed il'.e
fuj^itives with their bla/.inj; thatches.
The new comers found no cottages to
shelter them, and as they laid the j^round-
work of their settlement it is ])robable
not one of them would have credited a
pro])hecy that in the course of .seven
score vears there would be a flourishiiijf
town of some '.orio inhabitants there,
increasinj;( in jiopulation at the rate of
between four and five jier cent, every
year.

Truro is in truth an attractive and
enterprising pl.tce. It is admirably sit-
uated on gently rising ground, wiih the
railway rumiing idong the valley at its
base, near enough to be convenient to the
business centre and yet not near enough
to interfere with the attractions in which
good taste has been combined with what
nature has done to make the place beauti-
ful. The long, wide streets are adorned
with shade trees ; the houses, great and
small, have well kept lawns and tasteful
flower gardens, and visitors are always
well j)leased with the town. Yet the
town is more than good looking ; it is

aclivi' and enter])rising. .\ niMuber of
imjiortant imlustrial estabhshments are
in operation, including a condensed milk
factory, hat and shoe factories, foundries,
wood-working factories and others, em-
ploying a large number of hands. He-
Iween iSSi and i.Stji, Truro's industrial
estal)lishments increa.sed from fifty-five
to one hundretl and tliirly-one, the
invested ca])ital from $i56,cxx)to J36S,<kx),
with ])roi)ortionate increase in the num-
ber of hands emjdoyed and the amount
of wages paid. The lown is the business
centre for a large hmd)ering and f.^rniiiig
district, and in this res|)ect is every year
becoming of greater commercial import-
ance. The stores are many anil are well
stocked, and some of the merchants are
<lirect imjiorters to a large extent. Many
of the buildings, and n<ital)ly some of
the more recent ones, are handsome and
im])osing structures. Truro is in every
sense a live town, and one evidence of
this is found in the excellence of the
leading hotels. The normal school ami
the agricultural school are anu)ng the
institutions worthy of special note.

While at Parrsboro the visitor had a
chance of looking nj) to Cobe(|uid IJay.
I'"rom Truro he can reverse the picture
anil look down. Hy ascending I'enny's
Mountain, three miles from the Court
House, a splendid view is had, taking in
the range of the North Mountains,
terminating at niomidon, while the river
meanders gracefidlv through the valley
on its way to the troubled waters of
l''uiuly. From W'ollaston Heights, a
mile from the Court House, is found
another fine view of the surrounding
country, while the best views of the town,
down to the bay, are had from Winbnrn
and 1'"uiuly Hills. A drive to Old Barns,
otherwise known as Clifton, will be fouml
of interest. The Shubenacadie has a
bore, similar to that of the I'etitcodiac,
which may be seen rushing past the
island as apart of the highest tide on the
continent.

Clo.se to the town, yet wholly apart
from the surrouiulings of every day life,
is Victoria I'ark, a ])lace which nature

has a(liuira))ly a(la])te<l to the ])ur]K)S(.'s of
a pleasurc-j^roimd. One jiortioii of it is a
picturesciue t:or>,'e throuj^h which tuiiibles
a munmiriiij,' hrook. Kollowiiij^ its
wiii(Hnj{s and travelliiij^ the jiaths which
lead around the well-wooded hillsides
the visitor finils a cascade of singular
beauty, pourin)^ over a I)arrier of rock
that rises to a heij^ht of fifty feet or more
above the pool which the waters form at
its base. This is the place of which the
gifted Joseph Howe wrote, three score

I'alls. I'urther up the stream is another
waterfall amid romantic surroundings,
while the park, as a whole, is so charm-
injjly rustic that the best of judjijment
has been re(|uired to j;uanl against too
much of alleged improvement In- man.

If one has not seen the Acadia Mines, a
drive to them from Truro, a distance of
twenty miles over a good road, is well
worth the trouble. .Another drive of
twenty miles over Tatamagouche Moun-
tains to Farm Lake takes one through a

JOh: lion I: I- A U.S. -IkCRit

Intt'liftloinal Koitlt'

years ago, that " never was there a more
ap])ropriate spot for our old men to see
visions and our young men to dream
dreams." It is the ideal of a lover's
trysting place, where to-day, ,is in the
olden time, " many ;in ex])ressioii of ])ure
and siidess regard has burst from lips
that, after long refusal, at length playetl
the unconscious interpreters to the
heart." After such a tril)ute it is but
just tliat the memory of its author should
be honored in tlie name of the Joe Howe

rich variety of mountain scenery. All
the trees of flie forest are to be seen on
the lofty hills and in the jileasant vale* .
In many places the branches over-arch
the road, and ami<l these umbrageous
ways the voices of the birds and the
music of the brooks fall sweetly on the
ear. At the lake, elevated over a
thousand feet above the sea, the fisherman
may enjoy a calm content amid nature's
beauties, and have a further reward in an
abundance of excellent trout. Trout of

.JjBI

the best ([uality are found in nil of the
niunerous lakes in this vicinity.

vSome good fishing, es])L'cially of troi't
and grayling, is found in the rivers in the
vicinity of Truro and in Folleigh Ivake.
The latter is a pretty sheet of water with
clusters of islands, and boats are kept
for the use of visitors.

A thick forest covers all the range of
mountains from Truro to Tatatuagouche
Hay, and affords good sport. The he.st
moose ground, however, is among the
Stewiacke Mountains, beginning, say,
fourteen miles from the tjwn. Johnson's
Crossing, five miles, and Riversdale,
twelve miles, have also good re])utations.
Caribou are migratory, and not to be
depended on, but a likely place for them
is at Pembroke, twenty-three miles dis-
tant. Indian guides can be hired in
Truro for about adoUara da\'. They will
do all the cooking and camp work, and
are to be relied on in matters of woodcraft.

Partridge are plenty, and, after the
latter part of July, snipe, plover and
curlew may be bagged on the marshes
within a hundred yards of the Court
House. Ducks, geese and brant frequent
the lakes in the spring and fall.

Apart from the town of Pictou, the
places to which reference has been made
since leaving the boundary of New
lirunswick are in the comities of Cum-
berland and Colchester, .\inherst being
the shiretown of the one and Truro of
the other. These are counties rich in
resources, to some of which passing refer-
ence has been made. In the lumber
industry Cumberland leads all Nova
Scotia, producing over a million dollars'
worth in a year, while Colchester also
makes a fine showing in tlte same line.
Hoth counties are rich in agricultural
products, and the farmers are thrifty and
prosperous. Poor farmers are not to be
fomid, and in a country where wheat has
been raised at the rate of forty -six bushels
to the acre there is no reason why farm-
ing should not be a profitable business in
good years and bad years.

From Truro to Halifax is a distance of
sixty-two miles, but before enjoying the

pleasures of the ca])ital it nuiy be well to
make Truro the starting ])()int for Cape
Hrelon, leaving both Halifax and St.
John to be dealt with later. P'rom Truro
to jNIulgrave, on the Strait of Canseau, is
one hunilred and twenty -three miles, and
iicross the Strait is Cajie Hreton. On the
way thither, however, is much that is
\\orthy of more than a passing glance.

Amon^ the Coal Fields

Slellarton, forty-one miles from Truro,
is one of the notable places in the Pictou
coal field, and is the oldest in resj)ect to
mining, for the Albion mines were first
o])erated more than seventy years ago.
There are other mines in this part of the
country, howt'ver, such as the Dnnnmond
and .Acadia collieries at Westville, three
miles from Stellarton, on the branch line
leading to Pictou, and the Vale colliery
at Thorburn, six miles from New Glas-
gow.

This is a coal country. Nobody knows
how much of a deposit there is in Nova
Scotia. Geologists have made estimates
in regard to the areas of which they have
knowledge, and not even the argu.s-eyed
"Old Subscriber," who keeps a scrap-
book for the pnr])ose of correcting the
news))apers, has ever attem])ted to dis-
j)rove their statements. F^nough is known
to show that the eastern part of the
province, including Cape Hreton, was not
big enough to hold the immense deposit,
an<l that if the seams were followed out
under the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the
Atlantic ( »cean fuel would be found in
sufficient (|uantity to convert every ice-
berg of the Polar Sea into boiling water.

While one of the mines in Cape Hreton
actually extends under the sea the day
is far distant when resort must be had to
submarine mines because of the failure
of those on the mainland. The pick has
been i)lied since the I'rench began the
work at the Joggins and in Cajjc Hreton,
more than two centuries ago, and the
mines could be worked to a much greater
extent than they are without any fear of
scarcity for centuries to come. The
(ptanlity raised in 1S96 was 2,503,728

tons, !m(l nobody doubts that very many
more millions of tons remain for the
workers of the future. Accordinji; to the
Statistical Year Hook, Ihe quantity is at
least seven thousand millions of Ions,
and it may be much more.

The countii.'s of Cumberland and Pietou
are jj;ood neij^hbors for the county of
Colchester, with its inexhaustible sii])ply
of iron. In the Pietou field, according
to Sir William Logan, there are 5,567 feet
of strata, containing one huiulrcd and
forty-one feet of coal, in sixteen l)eds,
which vary in thickness from three to
forty feet. The coal area of the province
covers about six hundred and thirty-five
square miles.

Nova Scotia is, accordingly, a very
carboniferous sort of country, and coal
seams are found in a great many places.
The strata seen at the Joggins mines,
where the sea wa.shes the cliffs, is said to
be the best display of the kind in the
w jild. I'ictou shows a continuation of
the same field— the great Nova Scotia
coal field, with its seventy-six seams of
coal and a thickness of no less than
14,750 feet of deposits. It took a long
time for all this to form. It was so long
ago that every kind of animal which
roamed in the forests of the period has
been extinct for thousands of years. Yes,
the coal fields are pretty oM ; it took
ages to form each one of the seams ; and
y( ' vhen the fishernum barks his shins
on .Lie granite rocks of the Nepisiguit, on
Baie de Chaleur, he feels something
that is a good deal older. It may
mitigate his wrath and repress his pro-
fanity to know that he is bruised by what
was part of the bottom of an ocean
"before a single plant had been called
into existence of the myriads entombed
in the coal deposits." So it will be seen
that coal is quite a i)arvenu, as compared
with some of the geological families ; but
it is old enough for all ])raclical purposes
where man is concerned.

Rich as the I'ictou coal field is, its area
is only about thirty-five square miles. It
is in the form of a basin, ten miles in its
greatest diameter, and its coal deposit is

enormous be ause of the thickness of the
seams. The main seam at the Albion
colliery is the thickest in the world.

The four collieries to which reference
has been made employ nearly i,4(K) men.
In the Drummond, the average number
of persons employed in the sunnner season
is 500, and the daily out])Ut is 900 tons.
The main slope is 4. 200 feet deep. This
mine was the scene of a fearful ex])losion
in 1X7,^. by which sixty-nine lives wen.
lo.st. Another memorable disaster was
that of the explosion at the " Ford " pit,
Albion colliery, in i8,So, when forty-two
lives were lost. The waters of the Kast
river were turned into the mine to
extinguish the fire, and though much
pumping has since been done onlj- a
I)ortion of this })art of the mine has been
reclaimed. The bodies of those who
were killed by the explosion rest where
death overtook them a thomaiid feet
below the surface of the earth. Other
parts of the Albion are now being worked,
and yield large returns.

One of the pioneer railways of America
was that built from the Albion mine to
I'ictou landing, a distance of six miles.
The work was ))egun in 1S36 and the line
o])ened in 1S39. One of the most remark-
able facts in this connection was that the
road was built on what it required a
generation of experience to learn was the
standard gauge for all railways. The
engine first used on this road was built
by Hackworth, a comjjetitor with
Stej)henson, and was in use at the mines
uj) to tS.S5. It is now owned in the
United States, wliere it was sold after
being on exhibition at the World's I-'air
in Chicago.

I'ictou, of which an account has already
been given, is fourteen miles from
Stellartdii by rail. Two miles beyond
'^tellarlon, on the line going to Mulgrave,
is New Olasgow, the commercial centre
of this j)art of the countrj'.

New Glasgow

The town of New tilasgow made a gain
of over forty-five per cent, in its pojnila-
tion in the ten years preceding 1891, and

at aiiythiii)^ like the same rate it must
now he a jilace of nearly or quite 5,000
inhahitants. In the same i)eri<)(l it in-
creased its industrial eslahlishmeiits from
forty to one hundred and twenty-three,
multiplied the invested capital hy six
until it amounted to more t . • million
dollars, emjjloyed 1,100 men \..iere there
had heen less than 4(X), and increased the
value of its products from lers than a
third of a million dollars to more than
one and a half million. It has continued

350 feet hi^h, is two miles from the post
office, and from this heijjht one may have
a j^rand ami comprehensive view of the
country for a long distance. This view
takes in a portion of Prince Edward
Island, I'ictou and I'ictou Island, and
shows the Strait of Canseau as far as Ca])e
St. (ieorxe, beyond which rise the
mountains of Inverness, Cape Breton.
Lookinj^ to the south, a beautiful farming
country i& ?eer., ^ 'e prospect extending
some thirty miles to the Antigonish

r>-''

A7-;//' (//..isooii; -V..V.

to grow in the number and extent of its
industries, and besides all that it has of
itself it is the chief town in a manufactur-
ing district which includes such important
works as the blast furnaces at I'^errona,
the steel works and steam forge at 'Iren-
ton, to say nothing of the extens've
collieries, of which mention has been
made. There is no doubt New Glasgow
is a very live place.

Some fine scenery is to be found in the
vicinity of the town. Fraser's Mountain,

Intel colonial A'onir

mountains. The view in all directions
embraces hills, valleys and level country,
dotted with the houses and churches of
the outlying settlements. New Cilasgow
is close at hand, and among the other
sights which attract the eye are Weaver's
Mountain, McLellan's Mountain, the
Vale Colliery, Trenton, Stellarton, West-
ville, Hopewell, Ferrona and Pictou.
The river, with its serpentine windings,
is a picturesque feature of the landscape.
One of the drives which will be found

100

of inleresl is thiit to Stellarton, tliioiij;1i
the collieries, rallinj; also at Middle
river and winding up at I'it/.paVrifk's
IMoiiiitain, (ireeii Hill. I'roin the latter
I)lace the country can be seen in all
directions for a distanceof sonietliinjj like
forty miles. A drive to Little Harbor,
six or seven miles, aiul a bath in the
salt water, will also have attractions for
the pleasure seeker. .\t Sutherland's
river, six miles distant, is a fine
waterfall with picturesfiiie surronndinj^'s.
A jileasan'. excursion may ilso be liatl by
takinj.? a sail to I'ieton and returiiinj.; by
the railway throuj.;h Weslville and
Stellarton. Those who are fond of fishinf;
may si)end a part of a day at McLellan's
Rrook, four miles from the town, where
some very j^ood catches have been made.

Anno Murium

Thoujfh one may no lonj.;er find any of
the old inhabitants who rememf)er the
year of the mice, there are yet many who
have heard their fathers tell of the
remarkable events in that memorable
period of the history of this part of Nova
Scotia. The year in question was 1S15,
when an army of mice marched over
Colchester, I'ictou and Antij^onish coun-
ties, eatinj^' everything before it as it
advanced. It was a veritable plague, as
serious for a time as that of the frogs
sent upon the land of Egypt, and which
has had nothing to compare with it in the
jirovinces in more recent times, with the
exception of the invasion of the army
worm. The incursion of the mice, how-
ever, seems to have been purely local in
its character, though Prince Edward
Island al.so had its experience, and had,
indeed, known such visitations at an
earlier period of its history. As long ago
as 1690, Di^rville wrote that the Island
had a plague, either of mice or locusts,
every seven years. This was evidently a
traveller's tale, but in respect to the mice
it seems to have had some foundation in
fact.

Th' farmers o£ Pictou and Antigonish,
never havmg heard of such a plague,
were taken very much by surprise when

the mice made their ajipearance. .Vccord-
ing to Dr. Patterson's History of Pictou
County, the fir>.t evidence of the invasion
was in the s])ring of the year, when the
sugar makers were annoyed by finding
numbers of drowneil mice in the sap
troughs in the maple woods. An occa-
sional mouse meeting with such a fate
would have made no trouble, ami might
even have imjjroved the syrup and the
sugar by giving it more of a body, but
when so many rushed to their death as to
crowd the troughs the sugar makers were
alike amazed and alarmed.

The intruders were field mice of the
largest kind, like lialf-grown rats, and
they had ." boldness more than propor-
tioned to their size. They came from the
woods, but how they got into the woods
nobody has attempted to exjilain ; and it
is in just such cases as this that the pre-
sent century misses the ingenious liars
who invented the legends of the (Ireeks,
Romans and North American Indians,
Nobody knows where the mice started
from, but their number increased day by
day as the season advanced. By planting
time they had taken possession of the fields
and bade fair to j)Ut an end to fanning
o]>erations for the season. With added
numbers they increased in boldness.
They ate everything that mice can eat,
and nearly ate up the people, for when
molested they sat on their haunches and
scjuealed defiance with their glistening
teeth laid bare.

It took a brave dog to face a mob of
them, and ordinary cats jiroved that good
generalship is often shown by a limeh'
and skilful retreat. Dr. Patterson is
authority for the statement that a farmer
iitteinpte<l to sow four bushels of oats at
Piedmont, and was disgusted to find that
the mice ate them as fast as he sowed.
Einding that his labor simply amounted
to feeding i)art of a hungry horde, he
finally got out of jiatieiice, threw all his
oats at them and went home in intense
di.sgust.

Spreading over the country as the
season advanced, the mice devoured all
before them. Acres were stripped of

loi

;;r<)\viii)^ crops, ami wlitii food failed
above the >;n>uiid the diligent destroyers
liurrowed into the earth and coiisimied
the seed jiotatoi's ami k""''*'"' Cats ami
dogs fouj{ht the invaders Jiobly, and even
the martens came out of the woods to ai<l
in the conflict, hnt with little apparent
elTect. Trenches were du>( and fdled
with water, hnt the dij^gers had their
labor for their jiains. It became a (|ut's-
tion whether the mice or the ])eo]>k' were
to possess the conntry, and for a time the
odds seemed in favor of the mice. The
l)lagne ceased when the cool weather

lM)r many years after this remarkable
visitation it was the cnstom of many of
the ])eo])le to reckon births, marriages,
<leaths, etc., as being such and such a
time .after the year of the mice. .\s
succeeding generations grew ny> this
system of chronology became o)>solete,
.'ind it has long since ceased to be known,
save to the very oldest inhabitants.

Antigonish

Three score and ten years ago Judge
Ilahburton recorded his o]>inion that
Antigonish was one of the prettiest villages

ANTIGO.yiSH

came in the autunm. The army of
occupation became demoralized, the fierce
invaders grew languid and died by the
thousand. " They could be gathered in
heaps, and their putrefying carcases
might be found in some jilaces in such
numbers as to taint the air. At Cape
Oeorge they went to the water and there
died, forming a ridge like .seaweed along
the ed'Je of the sea, and codfish were
caught off the coast with carcaser- in their
maws." So says the historian alreadj'
cjuoted, and his words are confirmed by
those who have heard the story from
their fathers.

Intercolonial Route

in the eastern section of Nova Scotia, and
his judgment on this point reepiires no
revision at the present day. It is beyond
doubt an attractive place. Its tidy dwell-
ings stand amid beautiful shade trees on
low ground, while the hills rise in grace-
ful cones near at hand. Among these
hills are sweet and ])leasant valleys and
the brooks are as clear as crystal. The
village is the capital of the county, and
is also the seat of the Bishop of Antigon-
i.sh. St. Ninian's Cathedral is a fine
edifice, built of stone and erected at a
large expense. It will seat 1,200 persons.
St. I'rancois Xavier College is located

102

near it ami lias a larni' mimhi'iot' sUidiiits
from all parts of Ihv ]>yn\'\\uv>. The
colU'^i' and I'liurrh j^imimls an- lieaiili-
fuUy siluali'il, ami many of tlii' private
residences are reniarkalily tastefnl in
their apix-aranci' an<l Iheir sntronndiii^^fs.

The i'om'Miuiil\' is largely composed of
Highland Si'otch, and certain historic
family names are so well represented
that many of the prominent residents are
known by their Christian names con])lc<l
with some dislin)^uishinj{ title, fre(|nently
one showing; the line of descent. In this
part of the conntry, as thron^th Cape
Breton, the (iaelic langua^jeis extensively
spoken, anil for the lienefit of many of
the older peo])le sermons in that '.onj,'ne
are ])reaclied from time to time in the
eathedral.

The mouth of the harbor is eight miles
from the villaj^e, and a number of the
residents have summer cottages there.
The beach is of smooth sand and permits
the bather to go out a long distance from
the shore.

It is believed that the word " .Vnti-
>;onish " is a corru])tioii of the Indian
" Nalkitgoniasli," which me.ms either
Forked River or Hig I'ish Kiver. An
other theory is that the original word was
Nalegilkooneech, a i)lace where branches
are torn off by the bears gathering
beechnuts. The scenery is good in all
parts •■ this district. The " Lord's Day
Ciale and other storms have done a
large amount of injury to the forests, but
enough beauty remains to satisfy the
sightseer. liy all odds the most attrac-
tive s])ol is at Lochaber Lake, on the
road to .Sherbrooke, thirteen miles from
the village. Tlii.s lake is about five miles
long, and varies in width from a few
hundred feet to ne.irly half a mile. The
road runs along its bank for the entire
distance, amid foliage of the uio.st attra :-
tive character. The water is very dee])
and remarkably clear and ])ure, while
the banks rise abrujitly from it and have
a very beautiful effect.

There are excellent roads in this part of
the country, and abundant opportunities
for driving or making a bicycle journey.

.\ .avorite <lrive, in addition to that to
I.ochaber, is to St. tleorge's Hay, a little
over six miles from the village, from the
.shore of which there is a gran<l view-
extending far out to the waters of the
oi)en sea.

.\iUigonish is in touch with some of the
famous gobl mining districts of Nova
Scotia, such as the Sherbrooke I'oresl
Hill and Isaac's Harbor mines. These
are reached by a journey of forty miles or
so over good highways. The Sherbrooke
road is a convenient way by which to
reach some of the fishing and hunting
grounds of duysboro. By going about
twenty miles, St. Mary's river is reached
at the I'orks. Here there is good fishing
all along the river, and gootl accommoda-
tion nuiy be had at Melrose. I'rom here
to the .Stillwater Salmon I'ools is seven
miles, ;ind some fine salmon may be
caught. Sherbrooke, a few miles lower
down, is a very pretty place, and here one
may catch not only fine sea trcmt, but
salmon ranging from lifteen to forty
pounds in weight. The fly best suited to
this river is one with light yellow body
and dark yellow wings In the other
.salmon rivers the " Admiral " is a favorite,
as well as another with turkey wing, grey
body and golden pheasant tail, (iuysboro
lakes have fine trout in them. The
mountains of this country, too, are the
haunts of moose.

In ajiproaching Antigonish by the rail-
way, after leaving Harney's river, the
road runs through a canyon, extending
for a number of miles, and which is ]«irt
of the beautiful Piedmont vallev. I'ar
away and near at hand rise tree-clad hills,
on which the sunshine gives a glory to
the varying hues of summer foliage, to
show in vivid contrast with the shadows
cast in the vales beneath.

Near Antigonish is Sugar Loaf jMoun-
tain with a height of 750 feet — from
which is a view of sea and land that
includes even the shore of Cape Breton.
Only a few miles from Antigonish is
liaspereau I.iike, which is 5(X) feet above
the v.-ater in the harbor, so it will be seen
that there is nu lack of hills, with all

10;,

kinils of scenery, in tliis jiarl of the
world.

There is some fair trout (ishiiijf in the
rivers of this vicinity, j^jood jjartrid^e
shooting and aina/iii),; o])])()rtnnilies for
l)aj,'j,'in>; wild jjeese in their season.
Three men have secured twenty-five in
three days on the shore of St. (leorjie's
Hay, near at hand, .itid only receiitl\-
an Indian shot twenty j^eese at Town
Point, six miles from the villaj,'e, and
walked into Antiffonish staj^^erinj.; under
the wei}.;ht of his ac<|nisitions. The man
had more than he could dispo.^e of, and
it is understood that he made a vow never
to shoot as many at one time again unless
the ])rospects of a market were better.

Leaving Antigonish, South river is the
first place to claim attentic t, with its
picturestpie islands and green hills, while
here and there the white plaster rock
brings out the colors of the forest and
lield in brighter relief. If the journey be
made in the autumn '. is almost a
certainty that wild geese and ducks will
be seen at South river. It is no uncom-
mon thing for an ai)proaching train to
cause several flocks to rise from the river
close at hand, while at a distance may be
seen the heads of Ihonsaiids of others, as
they float traiujuilly on the water.

The Trappisis of Tracadie

It has alread}' been explained that the
word "Tracadie" means a camjiing
ground, and that it designates a locality
in each of the Maritime Provinces. The
Tracadie of New Brunswick is best known
to the world from the fact that the
Lazaretto for le])ers is located in its
vicinity, and the Tracadie of Nova Scotia
has a claim to distinction in having had
the only Trappist Monastery in Canada
south of the St. Lawrence, and one of the
few on the continent.

Tracadie st.ition is twenty-one miles
from Anligonish, and there is a good
harbor near at hand, oijening into vSt.
George's Hay. There is an Indian reserve
in the neighborhood.

The Monastery of Our Lady of Petit
Clairvaux, which was its proper title, was

founded in 1.S20. The members of the
community were Cistercian Monks,
though ciinimoniy called Trajjpisls from
their obedience to the nde of La Tra])|)e,
the founder of the order. They had
between five and six hundred acres
of land connected with the monastery,
much of which was in a high stale of
cultivation. Within the last few years,
however, the community suffered heavily
from fire, losing the monastery, grist
mill, carding mill and barns, on two
different occasions. A new monastery
was erected, but the work of rejilacing
all that was destroyed was of necessity
slow and attended with difTiculty, and
the community, numbering only about
ii score of monks, who were chiefly
Helgians, l)ecanie discouraged at the
outlook and emigrate<l quite recently
in a body to a new home, .\nother com-
munity of Tra])pistsin !•' ranee, numbering
sixty jier.sons, it is however now an-
nounced, have secured the vacated pro-
perty and will shortly arrive to take up
the work of their jiredecessors.

The life of a Trajjjiist is devoted to
prayer, manual labor and silence. The
ordinary hour of rising is two o'clock
in the morning, except on .Sundays and
feast days, when the hour is half-past
one. The remainder of what most people
would call the night is spent in chanting
the offices of the cl;urch, in meditation
and other religious duties. The fast is
broken by a light meal at 7.30 in the
summer and 11.30 in the winter, the
latter season being kept as a Lent. The
monks never eat meat, fish or eggs, and
it is only of recent years that butter has
been allowed in the i)reparation of the
vegetable food. The discipline is strict
ill all other respects, for the Trappist life
is the most rigorous of all the monastic
orders. CfJiiversation, when necessary,
is carried on by signs, except in address-
ing the abbot.

The monks, in addition to their own
manual labor, furnish considerable em-
ployment, to others who assist them in
their work, and they are excellent
farmers. In their religious duties they

104

|f*!"r

seek to iiiaku reparation for the sins of
the outside \v(trl<l. I>es])ile uf what
seems a severe life the\' enjoy exoflleiit
healtli and live to a ;<reat aj^e, as a nile.
All their life, however, is a ])ri-i)aration
for death. The burial ])lace is el.)se to
the monastery, where il is continually in
sij,'lit. When a monk dies he is huried
in his hahit, uni-otViiU'd ; and when the
j{rave is tilled in another j,'rave is
o|)ened to remind the survivors that one
of them must he its tenant in his a])-
pointeil time.

On an Ocean Bye-Way

If the .\tlantie he a highway for the
commeree of na-
tions, what hut a
hye-way, or con-
venient short cut,
is the Strait of
Ciinseau. It is the
jj;reat can.il which
nature has jilaced
between the ocean
and the (iulf of
St. Lawrence, by
which not only is
distance shortened,
butthei)erilsof the
.sea are, in many
ca.ses, reduced to a
minimum. I'our-
teen miles or so in
lenj.;th, and about
a mile in width, its
stroll)^ currents as-
sert its claim to be
part of the great sea beyond, while the
thousands of sail passing and repassing
year after year tell of its imjiortance to
the trade of the whole .Atlantic Coast.

The Intercolonial raihvaj- reaches the
Strait of Canseau at Mulgrave. Here the
high land on the western siiore affords
some glorious views, both of the long
stretch of water, dotted with all kinds of
craft, and of the sloping hills of the
island beyond. The most prominent of
the heights on the mainland is Cape
Porcupine, from the sunnnit of which the
telegraph wires once crossed, high over

the waters, to IMaister Cove. In the early
days of ocean cal)les those slender
threads in mid air were a part of the tie
which united Ivuropeand .America. When
breaks occurred — and in such an ex])osed
situation they were bouml to oiiur — the
link between two worlds was broken.
The adojjtion of submarine cal)les solved
the iirol>lem for all time.

Mulgr.ive has not only an hotel l)Ut a
number of private hou.ses where excellent
accommodation can be had by those who
wish to remain for a time or make this
the centre from whicn to \ isit.some of the
])laces along the Strait. The roads are
good and there is fair fishing in the

/'OUT Mui.iiRAr/-:. y.s.

Inlciiohmitil Kinilf

vicinity. Morrison's Lake, which lies un-
der the shadow of Cape Porcupine, is two
miles from the wharf, and is reached by
an easy road. HigTracadie Lake is three
and a-half miles distant, and Chisholm's
Lake lies between the one last mentioned
and the highway. The road is a good
one and through a settled countrj-. To
the southward of the wharf are the Goose
Harbor lakes, a chain which extends
from three miles beyond Pirate Harbor
to the southern coast of Guysboro.

As for salt water fi.shing, it may be had
all along the Strait. Indeed, one lad has

■ o5

n record ot sevi'iilv l>ass iMiiuhl \>y liiiii
lishiii;^ from the whiuf at Miilf^'rave in one
nioinitiK' Tlu-v ivuraj^i'il from four to
six ])oiimls cadi.

Port Hawkesldiry aiiij Tort Ilastiiij^s,
on the other siilc of the Strait, are also
j{(Mi(i places for those who are in search
of rest anil (|iiiet, with plenty of sea
hrec/.e, a j,'ooil view of the waters east
ami west anil e\cry chance for lioatinj;,
(Iriviii)^ or whcelinj;. (lood accoinnioila-
tioii is to he fouml at hoth places.

Steamers leave Mul^rave on certain
(lays uf e.ich week for (iuyshoro .ind
Caiisean. on the Nova Scotia shore to the
southward, an<l for Arichat on the Cape
Hreton side A steamer also nins nj) the
north shore of Cape lireton to Port Hood,
Mabou and Mar^aree Ilarhor. In hoth
directions are jjlaces to delight those who
want to jjet Ihorouj^hly out of the ordin-
ary course of the tourist, and yet fnid
much that is novel and of interest.

Guysboro

The distance from Mulj^rave to (luys-
horo by water is about twenty-five miles,
and it is an exceedinj^ly i)leasant tri]) on
a summer day. (iuyshoro is situated at
the head of Chedabucto Bay, and when it
was settled by some military men, in the
last century, they seem to have ha<l an
idea that it was likely to be (juile a city.
The streets were laid out at rij.;ht an,i;les,
with a width of a hundred feet, and they
are that width to-day, save where they
have been encroached upon. Tlie place
is delijjhtfully cpiiet and restful, and the
surroundinjis are full of beauty. The
harbor is one to excite admiration, while
there are unlimited opportunities for
boatinjr, bathinj; and fishiutj. The river,
for about ten miles up from the village,
has hi>.;h hills on each side and abounds
with picturesfjue scenery.

No one need lack for fishing in this
part of the world, and there is a great
variety of it. In the salt water are
mackerel, cod, haddock, perch and smelt.
Sea trout are plenty in the rivers whicli
em])ty into the baj-, and brook trout may
be caught in all the rivers and lakes in

this "art of the province. The favorite
places for them are Salmon river, (ioose
Ilarhor and < 'iiiyshoro ri\ers. Cole Harbor,
.New llarlior, Iionahoe's Lake and Trout
I.ake. Salmon are found in Sa' 'on
river, and the rivers at Cuyshoro uiler-
vale. Cole and New Ilarliors. Tor lia}',
on the Atlantic coast, has a high reputa-
tion for its sea trout.

Creese and diU'ks are found everywhere
along these shores, ])artridge alxjund in
the woods, and tin- country to the rear of
(iuyshoro is famed as a re.sort "f moose.

Chedabucto Hay is a1)out tweuty-Cive
miles long and varies from four to ten
miles in its width. It is famed for the
abundance of mackerel caught in its
waters, and in the more jirosperous
mackerel fishing days it was the resort of
great numbers of (iloucester fishermen.
It is saiil that at: <nie time there were
three thou.saud fikheriiieii's huts on the
beach at I'ox Islai'.d, between nueens])ort
and Canseau. '■

Canseau and Its Fisheries

Canseau is an ideal place for those who
want to enjoy the sea and leriru how the
fisheries are carried on in this part of
the world. It is and always has been the
central point for fishermen on a coast
famed for its fisheries. The I'rench
resorted here in the early days, and the
New Knglaiiders had their station here
more than half a century before the
Tnited States came into existence. That
their business was no small one may be
inferred from the fact that in a raid by
the Indians, in 1720, the loss was esti-
mated at alioutfioo, 000. In 1725 Canseau
was looked upon as the proper place for
the seat of government of the ])roviiice,
because there were more Knglish here
than at any other settlement. Here,
score of years later, Pepjierell's fleet made
its rendezvous while on the way to attack
Louisbourg, and time out of mind it has
been a harbor of refuge and a place where
fishermen have put in for supplies at all
seasons.

The name of Canseau has been spelled
in various ways, and there are an e(|ual

106

tiiiinbcr of tlie<»ries as Id its oriyjin
mill iiieiiiiiii);. Soiiif allege that it is
(lerivi'd from the Spanish "k«iisi)," a
){()nse, others that it is from tht- ItuHat)
word " caiisoke " or "camsoki-, " a
frowning rlifT, while the old fashioiU'd
and proiKT way of spelling it is " Caii-
seaii."

IJaroii de Lery Wrought some i-atlle to
Caiiseau, from I'"raiii-e, in 151S, and an
ancient mariner hv the name of Seavolet
made a fisliiii),' voyage hither in 1565
and kept uj) his exmirsions every year
until 16117. The actual foundation of
Canseau as it is to-day, however, dates
hack to I Si 2, When Ahraliam Whitman
came here from Auna|)olis to settle down
aiul Krow with the country. He suc-

Isaac's llarl>or and Salmon river nearly
i,.|(xi hoats are en^ay;ed, and some of the
individual fishermen are saiil to he men
of wciiith. Ill the year named some
2,(««) tons of fish were sent u]) the Strait
to Mul>{rave, to lie forwarded to .Montreal
and other points. These were chiefly
fresh fish, for in these days of refrigerator
cars and warehouses and rapid transit
over the government railways the old
style of salting fish is not as common as
it was years ago. The .s..i,. ••nts of fresh
fish meant about ;f.So,otx) to the Canseau
nsheriiieii. There were some dried fish
])roduce<l, however, and the (|uanlity was
ten million pouinls, worth fyK),uixi. It
took thirty million pounds of fresh fish
to make this (|uaiitity, and if sold fresh

STRAIT or CAxs/iAf. iisiii.\(; ii.i:i:i

ceeded despite such occasional iiiterru])-
tioiis as that caused by the swoojiing down
of the redoubtable Paul Jones, in 1S13,
and the great fishing establishnient of the
Whitmans to-day bears evidence to the
wisdom t)f its founder in the choice of
a location.

In the year 1.S96 the fishermen aliMig
this part of the coast, from Isaac's Harbor
to Canseau, took about twenty-two million
pounds of marketable fish, not including
lobsters, and of these considerably more
than one half were taken between While
Head, on the .Vtlaiitic coast, and Oueens-
port. In the same year Canseau shipped
about a million pounds of lobsters, and
including the coast for fifteen miles on
each side, three niillion pounds. Between

Inlinuliinial Rnule

the amount realized woidd have been just
twice as much. Of the six million ijounds
of fish handled in (iuysboro county, two-
thirds came from the thirty miles of coast
east of Isaac's Harbor, of which Can.seau
is the chief jilace.

So much for the fish question, which is
a very important one in this part of Nova
Scotia. Apart from it, Canseau has many
attractions for those who love the sea.
The situation of the village is charniiiig,
and there is no lack of facilities for boat-
ing, bathing and all kinds of fishing.
The sea is the farm of the people, and
boats are their chief means of conveyance,
though teams are easily procured by those
who wish to drive around the country.
Some of the fishing boats are very neat

107

craft, anil in the annual rt'j,'atta, which is
a .ureal event, line records are made. One
of the sights on any fine nioniiiif; or
eveniiij; dnrinj,' the ilshint; season is to
see a lleet of some one hundred and fifty of
these lioats KO'-"K to the fishing {(rounds
or return inj^ laden with the spoils of the
dee]). There are times when some of
these boats earn as much as forty or fifty
dollars each in a day. The fishinjf
j^rounds are anywhere lieyuii ' i mile
from the shore, but the best an >u\ ten
to fifteen miles distant. The coast alon^t;
this part of Nova Scotia, and the corre-
sjiondinjf portion of the Cajie lircion
shore, nine miles away, are said to yield
a larjfer quantity of fish to the mile than
any other part of this country of dee]) .sea
fisheries. One isinii)ressed with this fact
when he goes to the wharf at Can scan,
after the boa' have come in, and sees
the (juantities of halibut, cod, haddock,
hake, mackerel and the like, which are
the result of a day's work.

.\ sail around the waters in the vicinitj'
of Canseau is full of delightful suri)nses
in the way of scenery. In ami about the
jiassages between the islands are not only
all kinds of landscajie and water views,
but one may go upon the open ocean,
with Ireland as the nearest land to the
eastward. Cape Canseau is the most
easterly point on the mainland of the
Dominion of Canada, the last point seen
by shijis and steamers when leaving the
coast of Nova Scotia to cross the Atlantic.
It is one hundred and twenty miles east
of Halifax. In this vicinity have been
some notable wrecks, and thrilling tales
of the sea may be heard. On a summer
day, however, a sail around the shore is
suggestive only of ])leasure, while even
the numerous seals and the sea birds
ajjpear to be taking life easily and in
peace. There are about thirty islands in
the vicinity of Canseau of varying sizes
and ever}- variety of form.

Can.seau is in clo.se touch with every
jjart of the world, through being the
cable station for both the Western I'liion
and Commercial Cable com])anies. The
former is in the village and the latter is

at Ila/el Hill, two miles distant, which is
l)ractically a town of itself controlled by
the com])any. It has a ])oi)\ilatii)n of
about 300, chiefiy the emi)l()yees of the
C()mi)any, and everything has been done
to make the staff comfortable. The
cable buildings arc finely furnished and
e(|ui])i)ed, and the houses and grounds
of the staff are models. Hazel Hill has
its own electric light and water suii])ly, a
fire dei)artmcnt and other features of a
city. A club hous';- for the yoimg men is
a feature of the i)lace.

Canseau has good accommodation, both
in the way of hotels ami ])riv;ite houses.

Arlchat and Isle Madame

In the early ])art of the century
Arichat was the chief commercial port of
Ca])e Hreton, but it is a tjuiet enough
]5lace tu)w, though it has many natural
advantages which in due time must bring
it more favorably to the notice of the
summer tourist. It is a restful jilace,
with good bathiiig, ;)oating, salt and fresh
water fishing and gooi'i roads fi)r driving
or wheeling. It is the chief jiort t)f Isle
ALidame, which is sejjarated from the
main island of Cai)e Breton by lyennox
Passage. Isie Madame, which includes
.some smaller islands, is about sixteen
miles from east to west, and a little more
than half that distance from north to
south. In addition to its boundary of
Lennox Passage, i is bounded on the
east by vSt. Peter's Bay, on the south and
west by the. Vtlantic Ocean and Chedabucto
Bay, and on the extreme west by the
waters at the southern entrance of the
Strait of Can.seau. Arichat is a place
with a j)0])ulation of about seven hundred,
and was formerly the seat of the Bishop
of .-Xrichat, until the see was renu)ve<l to
Antigonish.

Arichat is ])rettily situated on high
groutul and has a fine harbor. There is
another good harbor at West Arichat.
The situation of the island makes the
climate delightfully cool in the warmest
of weather.

This ])lace was one of the imj)ortant
stations of the Jersey fishing houses, and

108

the Robins still have an eslablislinifnl
here. In the township are many Acadian
I'rench, some of the families liavinj;
come here from (irand Pre at the time of
the dispersion.

Houses are easily ])rocured at Arichat
by those who wish to board themselves
during the sunnner, and some visitors
from Massachusetts have come here
regularly for several years, boarding
them.selves and making bicycle journeys
around the country. There are sotiie
attractive bits of scener}- around the
island, and the marine views are ex-
cellent.

St. Peter's and the Canal

In going from Mulgrave to the Hras
d'Or by ste-uner the route taken is
along the Strait of Canseau and through
Lennox Passage to St. Peter's, where
the canal gives access to the famed
inland sea. This is one of the places
where Cape Hreton gets the addition of
an island by the presence of a narrow
water pa.ssage between two .sections of
land, thc.igh in this instance it is the
work of man and not of nature. Man
was a long while about it, too, after he
decided that it ought to be done. As
man found Ca])e Hreton, the whole four
hundred and fifty scjuare miles of water
in the Hras d'Or had connnunicalion with
the sea outside only by way of what is
known as the (Ireat and the Little Hras
d'Or, on the northeast coast. In other
words, if one wanted to sail from the
Strait of Canseau to Sydney, or to any
point within the great lake, it was neces-
sary to go around the coast of Cajjc
Breton to do so. At St. Peter's Hay,
however, only a neck of land, less than
half a mile wide, ]ire»'ented a southwest
passage into and out of the Hras d'Or,
with the avoidance of all the risks of
navigation arouiKl the coast and the
advantage of a great .saving of lime and
distance. From very early times there
had been a portage across the land for
small boats at this place, and linally it
was decided there ought to be a canal.
The sm-vey was matle in the year 1S25, and

estimates were given for a canal to cost
|6S,6(.)(). Thirty years later the canai was
begun by the provincial government, and
at the time of Confederation, in 1H67,
^^156,500 had I)een exjjended but the
canal was not o])en for trafiic. It was
completed by the Canadian government
a year or so later, aiul since then has had
a Large amount exjiended on it. The
canal is about 2,.j(>o feet in length, has a
breadth of fifty-five feet on the water
line and a depth of nineteen feet. At its
northern end is St. Peter's Iidet, which
opens into the Hras d'Or at its widest
part. I'rom this point the journey may
be continued to Sydney bv steamer, or
the Cape Hreton division of the Intercol-
onial railway taken at (irand Narrows
for Sydney, Mulgrave or any intermediate
])laces.

St. Peter's was .settled by the I'rench
before they went to Arichat, and was one
of the ])laces reported ujion for a strong-
hold before I.oui.sbonrg was chosen. .\t
what is called Hrickery Point, iii the bay,
the clay was procured for the brick used
in the construction of I.ouisbourg. The
sites of both I-jiglish and l''reiu-h forts
are easily to be traced at the present
time. The latter, indeed, is close to the
canal and the house of the lockmaster is
upon it. The old earthworks are ])lainly
to be seen, and occasional finds of bay-
onets and other evidences of warfare arc
made. .V fewvears ago a lioo])e<l cannon
was unearthed, undoubtedly belonging
to a period long prior to the building of
the " Port Toidouse " fort here in 1749.
It had probably been the ])roi)eny of
Denys de P'ronsac, who had a settlement
here as long ago as 1636. I'ort liranville,
used after the Pjiglish occu])ation of
Ca])e Hreton, was on the bill to the east
of the canal lock.

There is good bathing at St. Peter's,
and as a matter of course there is every
facility for boating, both in the bay and
the inlet at the other end of the canal.
Excellent trout fishing may be had by
going a short <lislance. Some of the best
streams are River I'iere and its branches,
two miles; Scott's river, seven nlile^;

109

C 1

■1

'-0

III

ta;

Thoiu's brook, fifteen inik-s and iVraud
river, a like tlistaiu-e. There aro salmon
in the last named river.

It is elaimed that the roads in this jiarl
of the conntry are the best in Nova
Scotia. They are well made and from
the natnre of the soil they do not become
muddy. Amouff the attractive drives are
those to River Hour).;eois, five miles, and
to (irand River along the shore thronjih
L'Ardoise. .-X favorite water excursion,
on the Hrasd'Or side, is to the (|uarries at
Marble Mountain, a distance of fifteen
miles. On the wax thither is Point
Miclianx, or Ca])e IIinlo])en, or Hinchin-
broke. It has all three names, but is
usually known by the first one. Here
there is a beautiful drivint^ l)each, two
miles long and an eij^hth of a mile wide.
It is very level and of such hard, smooth
sand that the hoofs of the horses do
little more than make a slij^fht impri"^-
sion on it.

St. I'eter's Inlet is studde<l with islands
clad in verdure, and there are limes when
the scene is unusually beautiful, even for
a land of which beauty is everywhere.
On a calm sunnner morniuf(, for instance,
the peaceful sea is a mirror which reflects
in rare beauty the red, jmrple and golden
hues which the sunlight gives the hills.
On the land the colors are strangely
bright, while the waters soften and blend
the whole into a ])icture which nuist ever
linger in the memory.

The Rras d'Or will be dealt with more
fulh- in connection with the railway
journey through Cape Breton. In the
meantime another excursion m.cy be made
from Mulgrave along the Strait of
Canseau, going through St. (George's Hay
and along the northwest shore of Ca])e
Breton to where the open (Vulf of St.
Lawrence lies to the northward.

St. George's Bay and Port Houd

The tides run through the Strait of
Canseau at the rate of from four to six
miles an hour, and they defy the tide
tables by rising superior to all rules by
which men look for tides to be governed.
Their course is determined to a large

extent by the force and direction of the
winds outside, and they may How in one
direction for days at a lime. The tourist
can tell whether the steamer is going
with or against the tide by watching the
s])ar buoys and noting the direction in
which they point. It makes some tlifTer-
ence in the length of the voyage whether
the steamer is being carried along with
the current or is putting on more steam to
overcome it.

The section of Ca])e lireton from
Hastings to Port Hood, Mabouaud Hroad
Cove, a distance of fifty-.seveii miles, has
recently been made m<pre convenient of
access In the o])ening of the Inverness
and Riciimond railway. This railway
ojieiis u]) a fine jjiece of farming conntry
and at the same time ])rovide!i a winter
outlet for the large quantities of coal
being produced at Port Hood and Broad
Cove. The road follows the C(vist line for
the entire distance from Port Hastings to
Port Hood, anil an exceedingly fine
panorama of land and sea is disclosed to
the view. .\ daily ]);issenger .service has
been inaugurated, connection with the
Intercolonial at ])res'.'nt being made bv
ferry from Mulgrave. Work is, however,
under way to connect the two roads at
Point Tup])er and is expected to be com-
pleted shortly.

.\ steamer also runs from Mulgrave to
Port Hood, a distance of twenty-six miles,
on regular days of each week. Port Hood
is near the entrance to the bay, and from
there the journey may be continued to
Mabou, Broad Cove, Margaree Harbor
and Cheticamp, beyond which there is
little on the north coast to interest the
tourist, unless he is ;in\*ions to have a
bracing cruise aroiuid Cajie I,awreiu-e and
Cape North to see the grandest scenery in
Cape Breton. Of this further mention
will be made later in the journey.

Port Hood is a ])lace of about 1,500
])eoi)le, and is the shiretown of Inverness
county. It is the commercial centre of a
good fanning and fishing district, and
considerable genend business is done. It
is a ])lace not much known to tourists,
but a stay here nuiy be made very enjoy-

III

ttm

able to those who want rest and quiet,
with every chance for boating, bathinj^
and fishing. The hotels are goo<l, and
private board can be secured when
desired. I'ort Hood has of late ex])e-
rienced some of the " boom " which
other parts of Cape Breton has en-
joyed, and it is largely due to the
opening up of ihe Port Hood Coal Com-
pany's mine and the active operation
thereof. This company s property is
sixteen scjuare miles in extent, under
land and water, and there are two jirin-
cipal seams, one seven feet and the other
eight feet in thickness. The two seams
are variously estimated to contain from
seventy to one hundred and sixty-eight
million tons of coal. The mine is at
present capable of ])roducing five hundred
tons per daj-. The coal is said to be of a
superior quality for steam producing and
domestic purposes. A natural result of
this development is that building has
become active and real estate has attracted
many investments.

There are good boats and skilful
boatmen here, and excursions may be
made around the shores and to the
islands. The latter consist of Outer
Island and Smith's Island, the latter
being a most fitting name from the fact
that of the fifteen families resident upon
it no less than thirteen are vSmiths. They
are a very jjrosperons community, and
the five hundred acres of the island are
divided into flourishing farms which
raise four and five tons of hay to the acre
and other crojis in proportion. Kach
family has a score or more of sheep and
four or five cows, ami after providing for
these there is considerable hay left for
export.

Kish, however, rather than agriculture
is the great industry of the island, and it
is du^ to the fish offal that such fine crops
are raised. About half a million pounds
of dried cod, haddock and hake are sent
from here to Halifax in a season, and
nearly fifty thousand jwunds of canned
lobsters are sent from the factory. In
the days when mackerel were more
plentiful than of recent years these

waters were the best mackerel grounds in
Cauiida, and there were enormous catches
of herrinj'. A few years ago a whale,
sixty-five icet long, followed a school of
herring so closely that it ran ashore at
the island and was secured, but it is right
to add that whale catching is not lookeil
ujion as a regular industry.

The shipment of fresh fish is now being
actively prosecuted, the facilities pro-
vided by government bait freezers, re-
frigerator cats, etc., making it much
more profitable than to ship dried fish.

All the country along the north shore
is known as a good sheep district. One
steamer alone took some 3,400 head from
Port Hood and Mabou recently, as many
as five hundred going in a single lot.
They were sent chiefly to Halifax, by
way of Pictou. There is good pasturage,
and under the pastures are deposits of
coal. There is a coal field all along the
shore from Port Hood to Margaree, from
two to six feet thick, but of course it is
much better at some points than at others.
.Around Port Hood a man can go down to
the shore and dig his winter's coal as
easily as he digs his potatoes. If he is
not disposed to do all the work at once,
he can go from day to day with a shovel
and a bag or bucket, just as he would go
to his coal bin. He may have to go down
four or five feet before he strikes the
seam, if he is trying in a new place, but
coal is sotnetinies struck in digging the
holes for fence posts.

A proposition to build a breakwater,
closing up the northern entrance of Port
Hood harbor — which formerly had a
natural breakwater, but which has been
gradually carried away by the action of
the water — will likely be put into effect
shortly, and will have the effect of
making this harbor one of the safest
along the coast.

Mabou and Vicinity

Mabou is very beautifully located, on
the riverside a few miles from the harbor.
The rivers which empty into the harbor
are calle<l the Southwest and Southeast
branches, and there is excellent trout

fishiiij; in botli of them. A number of
other rivers within easy distance also
furnish fine sport. One of these is Hay
river, Lake Ainslie.

The scenery in this vicinity is every-
where attractive, and there is no limit to
the excursions which may he taktn by
carriajje or boat. One of the drives is to
the coal mines, and to Cape Mabou, a
mountain Soo feet high, level on the top,
an<l commanding a grand view of the
Crulf, as well as of the interior of Cajie
IJreton formally miles. This view shows
a very beautiful part of the country,
including the rich agricultural district of
Slrathlorn.

Mabou has good bathing places, and
the acconnnodations for visitors are very
satisfactory both at the hotels and at
private houses. It is an easy drive of
twenty miles or so acro.ss the country to
Orangedale Station on the Intercolonial.

In .going up the coast, cliffs 300 feet or
more in height are seen along the shore
between Mabou and Hroad Cove, and the
water is correspondingly deep. On the
tops of some of these cliffs the higlnva\-
can be seen winding around what would
api)ear to be j)laces fraught with danger
to the traveller who did not heed well
his i)alh. This is not the main highway,
but a shore road. The country is well
settled all the way between Port IIooil
and INIargaree, and there are some very
thrifty farmers.

Hroad Cove is an indentation of the
coast, about twelve miles long and two
miles deep. Here there are coal mines
which are now being vigorously worked
by Messrs. Mackenzie & Mann, who
are also proprietors of the railroad which
has its northern terminus at Broad Cove
and runs to Port Hastings. Up-to-date
machinery has been installed in these
mines and the output will be largely
increased. It is the intention to establish
a coal carrying trade to the St. Lawrence
and to American points. A large amount
of money has been expended in making
a harbor, or rather in making a channel
to a basin which has needed only an
entrance in order to be as good a harbor

as could be wished. This basin, or lake,
has been cut off from the sea by a .strip
of land a few hundred feet in width, and
to open and dredge a deep water channel
through this h.is been a work recpiiring
no small amount of labor and capital.

Mar^aree and Cheticamp

The old inhabitant rises to remark that
it used to be called Marguerite, but that
Margaree is the name by which it has
been known in modern times, and by
which it must be spoken of if there is a
desire to have ])eoj)le know what locality
is meant. The Indian name of the river
was Weeukuch, red ochre, and the mouth
of the river was Owchaadooch, meaning
"where they get it" (red ochre).
Ajiproaching Margaree harbor by water,
Margaree Island, which has al.so been
known as Wolf Island and Seal Island, is
seen standing out in bold relief, rising
high above the sea. It is a dreary looking
l)lace, and in addition to the lighthouse
and a lobster factory has only the houses
of some rishermeii upon it.

Margaree harbor is rather shoal, and
the landing from the steamer is effected
by means of boats. The village is a
quiet place, with good farms in the
neighborhood and good sea fisheries
along the shores. The great fame of the
^largaree district, however, arises from
the wonderful trout fishing found on the
river and in the other waters of the
interior. The fishing grounds are usually
reached by taking the Intercolonial
railway to Orangedale station, twenty-
nine miles from Point Tupper, and going
to the interior by way of Whycocomagh.
In this way fishing may be had at various
points along the route, but the best ])ools
are thirty-seven miles from Orangedale
and eight miles from Margaree harbor.
While dealing with the latter place,
however, it may be well to speak of the
fine opportunities the fisherman has in
this part of the world.

Leaving the village and travelling four
miles along the Margaree river, the
stranger enters on one of the most beau-
tiful meadows in all Nova Scotia. It is a

113

dead level, one mile in width, with
j)ictures(|ue hills on each side, and has a
length of four miles. In that distance
are some of the famous pools. At the
end of tliis meadow is the junction of the
Northeast and Southwest branches.
This is the Porks. The Northeast
branch has its source twenty-five miles
back in the forests of the interior, and
coming down from the hills nuikes its
winding way through wood and meadow,
the scenery being fairly enchanting at
times. The salmon go up this branch *o
the pools near its source. Both salmon
and trout are abundant in their season.
From the Forks along for fifteen miles is
the Northeast Margaree settlement, one
of the most thriving and attractive in
eastern Nova Scotia. Here the visitor
can get excellent accommodation in the
houses of well-to-do farmers. The pools
of this branch are considered the best in
the province.

The Southwest branch flows to the
Forks in an opposite direction to the
other branch. It is the outlet of Lake
Ainslie, the largest body of fresh water
in Cape Breton. This lake is triangular
in shape, twelve miles long and about
seven miles in extreme width. It has a
wide reputation for the size and nimiber
of its trout. The lake is about fourteen
miles from the Forks. The Southwest
branch affords trout and alewive fishing,
and salmon in the fall of the year. From
the head of Lake Ainslie to Whycocomagh
is only five miles. Good fishing is also
to be had at Trout river, Lake Ainslie.
Further points about this part of the
country will be mentioned in connection
with Whycocomagh, in describing the
Bras d'Or.

To the south of Margaree the settlers
are chiefly Scotch, together with the
descendants of the U. K. Loj-alists. All
over this part of the country the Gaelic
language is in common use, some of the

older people speaking it exclusively,
while the younger generation learn to
talk it as they grow up. It is a very
necessary language for a clergyman or a
doctor. North of Margaree the settlers
are Acadian French, and at Cheticamp is
the largest of their settlements in the
province of Nova Scotia. There are
about 3,000 French here and less than 200
of all others.

Eastern harbor, Cheticamp, five miles
long, with an average width of half a
mile, is one of the safest harbors along
the coast. It is well suited for boating
and bathing. There is a gradually
sloping sand beach, three miles long,
with not a rock along its entire length.
Good accommodation can be secured at
Cheticamp, and vacant houses can be
rented for the whole or a portion of the
season. A conspicuous object, seen for
many miles away in approaching Cheti-
camp by water, is the Catholic church, a
new and handsome structure which will
hold about 4,000 people.

There is good trout and salmon fishing
in Little river, which empties into Eastern
harbor, but not to the same extent as on
the Margaree. Of salt water fishing there
is a great variety, for this is one of the
great sea fishing districts of the Gulf, and
is a station of the famous Jersey firm of
Charles Robin & Co. During the season
the farmers move from their farms to
temporary homes on the shore, and the
annual catch of cod, herring, mackerel
and other fish, as well as of lobsters, is
very large. The catch of codfish alone
at Eastern harbor and Cheticamp is about
three million pounds a year, producing
one million j)Ounds of the dry fish.
The annual value of the fisheries in
this district is upwards of #75,000.
Along this coast, from Port Hood up
to Pleasant Bay, the value of the
fisheries in the last j-ear reported was
over 1316,000.

114

Alon^ the Beautiful Bras d'Or

ETURNIXO
to Mulgrave,
the tourist
crosses the
Straitof Caii-
seaii, to take
the railway
along the
Hrasd'Or. If
he wishes to
go by steam-
er by way of
Lennox Passage anil St. Peter's canal, to
which reference has already been made,
he can arrange to return by rail.

Cape Breton is usually spoken of as an
island, but it actually consists of a num-
ber of islands, while there are numbers
of peninsulas out of which even more
islands could be made, were there any
occasion for the work. Water, fresh and
salt, has been distributed very liberally
in this part of the world, and it is to this
that Cape Breton owes much of its charm
as the paradise of the summer tourist.

The land does its share as a part of the
beautiful picture. There is enough of it
and some to spare, for of the more than
two and a half million acres only about
a moiety is fit for cultivation. The rest
of it is good for other things. The pro-
ductive coal measures, for instance, cover
about two hundred and fifty sejuare miles,
anil there are other sources of wealth in
the earth, some of which are known and
some of which have yet to be developed.
Whether the land is good or not is of
little moment to the pleasure seeker, for
it is enough for him that it is one of the
finest places in America for a summer
outing. It has been so far removed from
the bustle of the world in the past that

there is a freshness about it that may be
sought f )r in vain along the beaten high-
ways of ravel. The primitive simplicity
which amused Charles Dudley Warner
and other humorous writers is still to be
found in many districts, but it is no
longer a troublesome journej- to reach
even the mysterious Baddeck from any
part of the continent. The Intercolonial
has opened up the bind, and the Cape
Breton railway, which is a part of the
Intercolonial, reaches from the Strait of
Canseau to the harbor of Sydney, on the
eastern shore. For much of the distance
it runs along the borders of that wonder-
fully beautiful inland sea, the Bras d'Or,
or of the rivers and bays that are tribu-
tary to it. The scenery is never tame,
because it is ever varied, and there are
places where the speed of the slowest
train will seem but too fast to the lover of
nature's beauty.

The railway begins at Point Tupper,
ju.st across from Mulgrave, and has a
length of ninety-one miles. At the out-
set, in aiming to provide a route as direct
as possible, it necessarily passes through
a part of the country a little removed
from such settlements as those which
cluster around River Inhabitants and
other places of note. For the same
reason, it bridges some big gaps which
the valleys have made. The trestle over
McDonald's Gulch, with a length of 940
feet, and a height of ninety feet above
the bed of the stream, is the second
longest in Canada.

,So it is that in the first half of the
journey but little is seen of the peoi)le of
the country. The country itself, how-
ever, begins to give glimpses of its beauty
at such places as Seal and Orange Coves,

115

ivIi'Kiiiiioirs harbor, and the various
inlets of Denys river. Then comes the
famed Hrasd'Or.

Who can describe the beauties of this
stranj^je ocean hdce, this imprisoned sea
which divides an island in twain? I'or
about fifty miles its waters are sheltered
from the ocean of which it forms a ])art
and in this lenj^th it exjiaiids into ba\s,
inlets and romantic havens, with islands,
])eninsulas and broken lines of coast — all
combininj; to form a scene of rare beautv,

The Uras d'Or waters have a surface
area of 450 s(|uare miles, and while the
width from shore to shore is as much as
eif,'hteen miles in one place, there are
limes when leiis than a mile sejjarates
shore from shore. So, too, the depth
varies in somewhat the same ratio as rise
the snrrouiulinj.; hills. In one part of
Little liras d'Or there is a dejjth of nearly
700 feet, the (le])ression e<|uallinj; the
heij,;ht of the surroundiiij^ land. Kverv
variety of landscape meets the eye of the

/v.VrA".I.VfA" ro /.'A'.I.V jrOR LAKES, CAPE /iKKTO.X

Inti'icolonial Route

surpassing the power of pen to describe.
At every turn new features claim wonder
and admiration. Here a cluster of fairy
isles, here some meandering stream, and
here some narrow strait leading into a
broad and peaceful bay. High above
tower the mountains with their ancient
forests, while at times bold cliffs crowned
with verdure rise majestically toward the
clouds. Nothing is common, nothing
lame ; all is fitted to fill the mind with
emotions of keenest pleasure.

delighted stranger, and it is because of
this variety that the eye never wearies and
the senses are never palled.

It would he useless, and doubtless im-
])olitic, to attempt to convince the
traveller that "Bras d'Or" is only the
corruption of a word that is not French
and has a wholly different meaning. As
one sees the calm surface made glorious
hy the rising or setting sun, with an
ambient light like that which shone in
the subtle distillations of the alchemists

116

of old, tlR'IC COIIU'S tllL- lllOll.ullt tlKlt IK)

otlicr tilk' lliaii the " Arm of (iold " so
well lielils tills MLMliit'rraiican of the
Acadian Ivaiiil. Yet there are not wantinij
those who arnue that this summer land
had its name in common with that of
"the cold and jiitiless Labrador," and
that both are from the S])anish 'J'rriu dc
Lahomdoy—XixwA that may he cultivated.
This would ap])ly to the surroun<lin)j;
country, but there is another theory
which has been used in reference to the
recoj;ni/.e<l I.abrailor, and will ap])ly with
ecjnal force here. It is that of M. Jules
Marcon, in a jiajier " Sur rOrij^ine dn
Xoni d'Ameri(|ue," to be found in the
Transactions of the (Juebec Cleoj^rapliical
Society for 18.SS. Heavers that the name
" lirador," or " Hradaur," is an Indian
word which means " dee]) and narrow
bay," pushing forward through the laml
and corresjiondinj^ to the Norwej^ian
fiord. It may also be remarkeil that
Denys' niaj), dated 1672, shows " I,e Lac
de Labrador," in what is now Cape
Hreton.

Between the claims of the Indians,
Spaniards, I''rench and Kiijrlish, inclnd-
inji the abominably ba<l spellers who
uinlerlook to write books ami make
niaj)s, there is a good deal ot ha/iucss
about some of the names in this part of
the country. It is rarely that the jieople
who are residents can throw any liglit on
the subject, and an apj)eal to the aged
Indians sometimes makes confusion worse
confounded. It is only an occasional
Indian who is ready to swear that
Skudakumoochwakaddy — the name of a
high island on the 15ras d'Or, once used
as a burial ground — means merely "Spirit
Land." It may be that the average
inquirer does not give just the right
accent to these names, and hence is mis-
understood. The words are not always
easy to • rouounce according to their
s])elling and even the judicial mind of
Ju<lge Ilalilnirton considered " Malaga-
waatclikt " to be what he termed a
crabbed name.

In following the railway the stranger
will occasionallv see what looks like a

shallow pond, a hun.lred feel or so in
diameter. It ma" surprise him to learn
that the bottom is sixty or a hundred feel
from the surface. This is a country of
heights, and depths, where at limes the
train runs through long cuttings where
the white jilaster rock looms up on each
siile, to travel for hundreds of yards on
high embankments in which the excav-
ated material has been made to bridge a
valley. There is nothing flat about the
scenery, unless it may be the water, and
even that is so onl\ in a pnrely literal
sense.

Nor is that always as Hal as some
would like it to be when they have to
cro.'-s the Htas d'Or after a heavy gale.
The inland sea is but a jiart of the
Atlantic, and an outside sea may sweej)
its waters into fury. The direction of
the wind makes all the difference in the
world.

Whycocomagh

It is a question whether "k" rather
than " c " shoidd not be used in the
spelling of this word, but it is not an
essential matter. The main ]ioiul is how
to gel there and what to see.

Orangedale, twenty-nine miles from
I'oint Tup])er, is the point on the railway
from which Whycoconiagh is reached by
a drive of seven miles, and teams are in
waiting on the arrival of express trains.
Orangedale is at the head of one of the
numerous little arms of the Bras d'Or
which are found in this part of the
journey, and nearat hand are Denys river
basin and (ireat and Little Malaga-
waatchkt. The latter are two inlets of
the great lake at the head of West Bay,
on the northern shore. The imcouth
name is saiil to mean "First Barrel,"
and there is a tradition to explain it.
It is pronounced " Malagawatch."

Whycoconiagh is situated on the basin
which is the termination of St. Patrick's
Channel, which has its mouth more than
twenty miles to the eastward, beyond
Baddeck. To go from this part of the
railway to Whycoconiagh wholly by
water would mean a journey of about
fortv miles, but a few miles east of

117

Oran^fedale is an inlet wliiih extends so
88 to leave only half a mile of land to
cross in order to reach \Vh_vi()coniaj,'li
Basin. This was the canoe jiortaj^e of
the Indians, and it may have been in this
connection that they called the place
WhycoconiaKh, nieaninj^ "emlinj^ of this
mode of travel."

The drive from Oranjjedale is an attrac-
tive one, the latter i)ortion o*" it beiti),'
around the shore of the ha.',in. Why-
cocomaj^h villaj^e is in a location which
leaves little to he desired by tourists, and
the surroundings both on land and water
are full of beauty. The sunnner climate
here, as indeed in all this part of Cape
Breton, is well ni),'h jierfect. It is an
exceedingly healthful ])lace. Consump-
tion and kindred comj)laints are unknown,
and no disease ever becomes epidemic.
It is one of the few parts of the world
where children rarely die from any cau.se,
and a lady relates that when she went to
school the case of a child struck by light-
ning was the only instance of the death
of anybody of school-going age.

The bathing around the shores, which
are well shaded by trees in many jilaces,
is very inviting, hoating in the l)asin is
equally alluring and is ab.solutely safe.
There has never been a drowning acci-
dent. Indian Island, a little distance
away, is owned by the Indians, who
number about twenty-five families and
have a reservation of 1,800 acres near the
village. Some of the farms make a good
appearance.

A mineral spring, which is claimed to
possess many virtues, is easy of access in
the village. Good board can be .secured
both at the hotel and in private houses
owned by leading residents.

A number of good fishing rivers may
be reached from Whycocomagh. The
most distant are the famous pools at
Margaree, elsewhere mentioned. To go
to these a drive of five miles is taken
through Ainslie Glen to the head of Lake
Ainslie. Following the eastern side of
this lake, which is twelve miles long, the
Southwest Margaree is reached and its
course followed to Margaree Forks, where

the first of the series of pools is found.
The distance is thirty miles, and to
Margaree harbor the distance is thirty-
eight miles. There is good fishing at a
shorter distance, however, at I.iike .-Xins-
lie itself and at Trout river, only five
miles from the village. l'"air fishing is
also to be had at times in the Whycoco-
magh and Sky rivers.

l''rom Whycocomagh across the country
to :SIaboii is al)()Ut fifteen miles. The
Kivcr Denys, another fishing stream, is
reached from the railway, eight miles
funn Orangedale .As for ])leasure drives
around Whycocomagh there is a wide
range included in the surrounding
c(nuitry. A drive around vSalt Mountain,
to the eastward, gives some fine views of
the Uras d'Or. Salt Mountain is 850 feet
high. vSky Mountain, reached by a drive
of six or seven miles, has a height of 950
feet. .\ double team can be driven to the
top of it, where there is a good bit of
farming country. From this height
there is a great view over a large area of
land and water, including a large portion
of the Bras d'Or, Cape Porcupine on the
Strait of Canseau, and even Prince
I'^dward Island, when the air is clear.
There is a fine chance for drives all
aroun<l the vicinity of Lake Ainslie.

Grand Narrows

The half-way ])oint between the Strait
of Canseau and .Sydney is tirand Narrows,
forty-five miles from Point Tu])])er by
the railwa\'. It is a central point as
regards travel to .some choice spots on the
Bras d'Or, and has a well equipped hotel.
.\t Grand Narrows the hitherto wide
e.xpanse of water, with a width twelve,
fifteen and eighteen miles from shore to
shore, is left behind as the journey is
continued to the eastward, and the Bras
<l'Or changes from a broad basin to make
its wa}' through a passage less than a
mile in width, the name of which is
Harra Stra.t. (irand Narrows is a pretty
place, with many opportunities for the
tourist to find sunnner recreation. The
climate in all this j)art of the country is
delightful. With all the benefits of salt

118

water l)rcL'/.es there is very little fo)^, and
what there is (if it is neither frequent,
thick nor of lonj^ iliiration. A ])roiiiinent
resident of (irand Narrows is authority
for the statement that he has known live
consecutive summers to pass without a
trace of this moist visitant.

(Irand Narrows is centrally situated as
regards some of the most invitin>; spots
in Ca])e Breton. Haddeck is only twelve
miles distant hy water, and a trip of
twenty miles from it takes one to the
heautiful \V'liycocomaj.{h. It is hardly
necessary to say th:it o])i)ortunities for
Kood bathinj.; and safe hoatiu).,' are found
everywhere in this diversified region of
land and water, while there is an ahun-
dance of tishinjr. Trout iire cauj^ht with
the fly from the Hras d'Or as close to the
hotel as the railway bridjje, and what is
more sinj.(ular, fine fat codfish also rise
to the fly in the autumn and are easily
taken. Good si/.ed trout are also found
at Henacadie, a few miles away, and at
Eskasouie, a little further removed. The
River Deiiys has also a fine reputation
amon}^ anjjlers.

I'Vesh codfish may he had here every
day in the year, if the trouble is taken to
catch it. Salmon are netted in front
of the wharf, and smelts are also abund-
ant. The mackerel in the Hras d'Or are
very lar).;e and fat. Here, too, are extra
large lobsters, and oy.sters are so natural
to the country that they actually j^row
on trees.

This may seem to be a remarkable
statement, but it is literally true. Alon^
some jiarts of the shore where the soil
yields easily white birch and other trees
occasionally lojiple and fall so that their
tops become submerged. The youiiK
oysters, .seekiiifj; a lod},dng pl.ice, attach
themselves to the branches,'and remaining
there, continue to grow on trees in the
literal sense of the term. In past years
from three thousand to four thousand
barrels of oysters have been taken around
these waters in the course of the season,
and some of them h;ive been shipped as
far west as Port Arthur.

The view from the top of (irand Nar-

rows mountain, about i.cxhi feet above
the water, is a very extensive one. It
takes in the great lake up to St. Peter's,
West H.iy, .Malagaw.iatchkt, Haddeck,
the Little Ilnisd'Or for thirty miles and
a j)ortion of Ivast Hay. In it are include<l
the Whycoconiagh inounlaiiis, Uiver
Deiivs mountains ai.<l the higher moun-
tains to the north and west. One of the
most attractive of the ilrives is that
around Narrows Head and Piper Cove,
taking the highway leading east from
Grand Narrows and making an almost
circular drive of seven or eight miles.

Then, as for game, the s])ortsman may
find all the jiarlridge he seeks in the
woods, and thousands of ])lover, black
duck, curlew and other sea fowl, at all
the inlets along the shore for many a
mile along the line of railway. Grand
Narrows has not a nionojioly of the good
things, but it is convenient because of its
central situation.

The railway bridge which crosses Harra
Strait at Grand Narrows is a handsome
as well as substantial structure, with a
length of 1,697 feet. It is the link which
connects the eastern and western divi-
sions of the road. It was formally opened
in October, 1890, by Ivord Stanley of
Preston, Governor-General of Canada.
His Kxcelleiicy stood in the cab of the
engine and acted as driver during the
passage across.

Baddeck

Daily week day steamer trips are made,
during the season of navigation, between
Grand Narrows and Haddeck, a distance
of twelve miles, and calls are made at
both places bj- the steamers on the route
between Mulgrave and Sydney.

Haddeck is a jilace of which much has
been heard in recent years, and its repu-
tation has been increased by the fact that
several wealthy citizens of the I'nited
States have made their summer homes
here, living in their own houses. Many
strangers, doubtless, have an idea that
there is nothing to equal Haddeck in
Cape Hreton, and that when they have
seen it and made a hasty trip through

119

llif Uras d'Or tlii'v liavi- ^ot a si^'lit of nil
that is worth seeing. Tho truth is that,
while Hathlcck is a |)lare with many
ailvailtaj,'rs ami iiiiii'll liaUnal hiMilly, it
is only one of a nunihor of points which
ounhl to he visited in order to k^-\. an
intelli,L;ent roiiiprclicnsioii of the attrai--
tions of this sunnnt-r land.

Nohody shoidd ndss seeing Haddi'i-k,

however. (loinK by water from (iraiid

Narrows, lona is passed on the iiorth-

•n shore, and further aloiij,' lies

calleil from its fancicil resemhlnnee to a
jiair of jjlasses.

Itadde«.k, which in the Hiime word as
" Ilede(|ne " with a dilTerent spellinKi
and was ICliadete-a sultry place to the
Indians, has a pojmlation in the village
and district of aliont [..S"" U is the
most central place in Ca])e hreton, and
when one is here he can easily ^{et to any
other part of the island. In a Imsiness
sense the villaj^e is a centre for a larj^e
area of the snrronndinj,' country. It is a

fl;

nADDKCK, CAPE liRETO.S

Moolasaalchkt, or Bij.? Harbor. .Xbout
three miles beyond this is the headland
ktiown as Watchaliukctckl on the left,
and Heinii-Hhrea.nh on the rij^dil. These
guard the harbor of Baddeck and the
entrance of vSt. Patrick's channel, which
leads to Whycocomajjh basin. On the
side of I?einn-I!lirea,Lch, otherwise known
as Red Head, is the beautiful summer
cottage of Dr. A. Graham Kell, of W'ash-
in^(ton, the inventor of the telephone.
In the harbor is Spectacle Island, so

htteti'oloniiil fytntfr

l)lace of call for several steamers, inclnd-
inji the French mail steamer for St.
Pierre.

The situation of the villaj(e, on the
j;entle slope which rises from the land-
locked harbor, ji;ives it a fine appearance,
and those who seek an outinj< here are
not disappointed in the many natural
advanta,i;es which Haddeck affords for the
health and pleasure seeker. The facilities
for bathing and boating are especially
good, and the water is <leliglilfully warm.

1 20

K;:i-

Tlic sociKTv evfrvwlu-reiii tliin vicinity in
of a la-.iulifiil iK'scriptinii, ainl llii-
I'hiiiu'cs for fxiiirsioiiN holli liy l.iml and
waliT an- prai'tically willionl a limit.
Tlii-y can ho iiuuK' lo enil)rai'i' tiu- iiorlli
shore of Capo Hrilon, tiu- Hras d'Or
laki's, and even tlu' npi'ii Mlantic, by
way of St. Anne's IIari)or.ind Hay, to say
iiotliiii),' of the many altraitioiis in tlie
limited area of a few tiiik's arouinl llie
village. One of llu' latter is found at
l'is>i;e-nan ( |)r(>ii<iiini'ed rish-ka-llan >
I'alls, wliii-li are in the forest nine and
one-half miles from l!le \iii.ij;e. 'I'liese
falls first eanie into pnhlic notice abont
fifteen ye.irs aj,'o. They are in the
Haddeek mountains and are three in
nnniher. h'roni the liottom of the first to
the top of the third there is a rise of .Soo
feet in a mile. The hijjhest eatanict is
scvenlv-live or eighty feet. Thi'se falls
are reached l)y a ^ood road. There are
still lar>,'er, hut less pictnres(|ne, falls on
Miildle river, some twelve or fifteen miles
from Haddeek.

Baddeck is a point from which the best
trout and salmon fishiii^^ in Cape lireton
can he reacheil. A dri\e of tweiity-i'i),dil
miles taki's one to the famed Marj^'aree
river, where both salmon and trout are
found. Middle river, within a few miles
of the village, has probably the finest
sea trout on the island. Sea trout are
also found in Haddeek river and in North
river, St. .Anne's, the latter beiiij,' a
favorite stream. The trout taken in it
averajje from a pound to a jioiiud and a
half ill wei^dit. Another fishiu),^ water
reached from liaddeck is Lake Ainslie,
which has already been mentioned in
connection with Whycoconiajjh. The
best trout fishing is from about the 2()th
of June to 2oth of July. There is good
shootin>(, according to the season, in the
woods and along the shore in this
vicinity.

There are two hotels at Had<leck, and
excellent board can also be secured in a
miinber of ])r'vate houses. Among those
who have found ria<ldeck .iltractive
enough to make it their suninier home
and build coltaees here are Creorge

Keniiaii, of Siberian fame; Mr. Carrntli.
of Ilosion ; Charles J. Hell and .Mexander
(iiiiliain Hell. The latter own^ the lie, id-
land called Heinn-Hhreagh, or Heantifiil
.Moimtaip. where he has land to the
exteir. of something over eight hninlred
ai'les. ( )n a gentle slope on the siile of
this mountain, snrronndeil by well kejil
grounds and commanding a grand view
of land anil water, is his house. It i> an
iileal sumnier cottage, finelj' linished and
designed with every regard for comfort
and convenience. Here the great inventor
and his faiiiil\' sjieinl a large part of each
year, sometimes remnining until late in
November.

The experieiici' of Dr. Hell is iiiteiot-
iiig, anil has a moral ■" >>• those who ha\e
had no experience of he benefits of the
climate of this part of -he world. Some
years ago, having specially in view the
health and comfort of his children, Dr.
Hell sought to find the right kind of a
place to make his siiniiner home. He
trieil the .Atlantic coast around Cape Mav,
C'lpe Cod and at other jjoints, but in
every instance there was something which
ap])eareil to be a defect. He wanted the
advantages of the salt water without the
cold winds, fogs and other drawbacks of
some of the otherwise attractive seaside
resorts. When he came to Ca])e Hreton,
he found th.it of which he was in search
exemi)lified at such jjlaces as Haddeek
and Whycocoinagh. Here he found a
country rich in scenery ;ilid with a
glorious snmnier climate. While the air
was refreshingly cool, the water in the
Hras d'Or, though coming from the
ocean, was so teni])ered in its jiassage
as to be of a most agreeable warmth
in the harbors and bays. In connection
with this he observed the fact that the
water in the sheltered haven at
Haddeek retained this heat until late in
the aiiluinn, so that the leaves remained
on the trees in this vicinity long after the
lime when they are sujiposed to fall in
this latitude, and as a matter of fact long
after the forests on the mainland were
bare. The situation was sudiciently
retired, and vet easv of access. He there-

1:1

121

'1,

fore ])urchasL'(l the niountain ])eiiinsiilii,
and year l)y year has j,'oiie to a hirj^e
ex])eiise in beaiitifyiii),' and iin])roviiij; it.
Much of the Ian 1 near the shore is nnder
cidtivation, and nine miles of roads have
been constructed. Windinj^ roads lead
to the top of the niountain, which is 600
feet high, and the ascent affords a succes-
sion of views extendinjf over the country
on all sides. A sheep ranch, where im-
proved merinoes are kept, is one of the
features of what is in many respects a
model farm.

Dr Hell does not come here to rest, so
far as he is personally concerned. He is
a very busy man, and in his well ecjuipped
laboratory and its annex he is able to
carry on his scientific investigations free
from iiiterru])tions. He has a staff of
trained assistants, and all find plenty to
occupy their time and engage their
attention.

Grand Narrows to Sydney

Leaving (iraiid Narrows the railway-
follows the south shore of the Bras d'Or
for about thirty miles until George's
river is reached, when it diverges to the
south t ) reach Sydney. About twelve
miles from ('Trand Narrows the Little
liras d'Or is seen. This is the minor
outlet of the lake, separated from the
main outlet, the Great Bras d'Or, by
Boulardarie Island. This island, which
is about twenty-six miles long and from

two to three miles wide for tlie greater
jjortion of its length, has its eastern end
on the Atlantic. The Little Bras d'Or is
from two to three miles wide for twenty
miles or so, and is very deep in jilaces.
The greatest depth of water in the whole
Bras d'Or, indeed, about 700 feet, is
found opposite Boisilale, eighteen miles
beyond Grand Narrows. In the last six
or seven miles of its course the Little
Bras d'Or is verj' narrow, and is navigable
only for ves.sels of light draught. This
j)art of it is not seen from the railway.

The railway journey permits of some
extended and beautiful views along the
Little Bras d'Or. Especially is this the
case in the vicinity of Long Island,
where some fine stretches of water and
I)ictur(.'.sque bits of landscape are seen.

In the forty-five miles between Grand
Narrows and Sydney the country is not
only more settled but more fertile as the
traveller proceeds, and in the vicinity of
the Sydneys the evidences of thrift and
prosperity are seen on every hand. One
can hardly believe that two centuries ago
the Indians and one or two missionaries
were the only occupants of all this part
of America. The jiraclical settlement of
Cape Breton by the English dates back to
but little more than a hundred years ago.

In going to Sydney by steamer, the
pas.sage of the (5ieat Bras d'Or is made,
and the trip is continued round the
coast until Svdnev harbor is reached.

i^H^HH^^^^^^Hi^HHIi^^^^lii^^L*/V

j^^^^^^^^^^l^^^^^^jlP

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<lri

a (il

ArJ

.1 .s/:oi'/:sr/:A'/:/i .vooa'

liitncoloniiil Route

133

The Sydncys and the Boom

X 1) ]•; R when the last census was taken. Sydnej-

the term is situated on the South Ann. It had a

of The ])opulation shghtly less than tliat of

Syilney North Sy<hiey hy the hist census. In

are in- July, 1S99, the same relative proportions

eluded were jireserved, hut a few months later

the towns of Sydney had a ])0])ulation of some seven

Sydney and thousand, while it now has probably

Xorth Sydney. twelve thousand. It is all (Uie to the

A])art from boom, which bej^an in .Xu^ust, 1899, and

their names appears to have come to stay,

the one has This boom is due to the fact that the

little relation to the other, for they are Dominion Iron and Steel Coinj)any

five miles apart by water and .seventeen has chosen Syilney as the scene of its

miis from each other by land. The operations. Since the company has

Sydney Mines lie beyond North Sydney, decided to locate at Sydney the town

and thus the whole district has come has exi)erienced such a boom as is a

under a general title with s])ecific desig- novelty in eastern America. Real estate

nations. has advanced beyond the dreams of its

To understand the location of the foi-mer owners, new buil(linj;s, some of

Sydneys one must know something about them of the most substantial character,

the harbor. This is one of the best in have been erected, and more are contin-

America, — safe, capacious, easy of access ually under construction. The inllux of

and navigable at all seasons. It ojjcns strangers has included mechanics, trades-

into the Atlantic ()ce;iii and is nearly two men and men of all cl.isses of occu|)alion,

miles wide at the entrance. Of great each impressed with the idea that Sydney

depth and so sheltered as to |)rotect it was the coming i)lace in the Maritime

from the force of storms, no haven on the Provinces, if not in Canada. The ])opu-

North American coast is more easily lation is still increasing, and it is likely

entered by ocean going craft, and none t" ilo so for years to come, for not only

is more secure. It is al)sohitely clear of ilo the jiresenl works mean jnuch of

obstructions, and it is commodious theiu.selves, but there is little doubt that

enough for the fleet of a nation to ride they will be followcil by other imiiortaiit

at anchor and leave plenty of room for the industries. The boom is a solid one.

<leiiian(ls of the connnercial marine. .\l Whatever may be the commercial out-

a distance of four miles fmni the mouth look of Sy<lney, it must continue to be

it divides into the Northwest and South the objective i)oinl for tourists by the

Anns. On the north side of the harbor, Intercolonial lailway. .\])art from all

before the division is reached, is the town that is imi)lied by a journey through the

of North Sydney, with a po])idation of glorious summer country of Cape Iheton,

about six thousand jieojile. Close to it vSydne\- itself is beautifully situated on

is the settlement of Sydney Mines, which the rising ground of the Southwest Arm,

had about three thousand of a population a most attractive sheet of water which

123

nvnt*<mvni^:

-3

pi;- • ^^

r i

1 ■■'^

1 '^

^'^

^^^ ^ ^

l^^.

'^-V*"^. ■>.

•

1 ^'^

^?^v-.5»,.*.

yii:^:.jvto;^ir:

^^t*^J^^v :

hecoiiic's ]'.'irl of Iho main liarnor a short
<listaiu"f l)elo\v. ThtMf is cverv o])])i)r-
tmiity for the hcsl of l)oatiii,i;, y:u-luiiig
and bathiiifr in these waters, while the
drives to beautiful jjarts of the country in
the vieinity are limited in variety only hy
the lime at the dis])osal of the visitor.
One of these, around the head of the
liarhor to Harn Lake, is lhrou,t,'h a very
line ])artof the Sydney district, and still
more enjoyable is that to Mira river, a
distance of twelve miles. I,in,t;an, (Vlace
Hay, I'orl ISIorienne, Louisbourj.' aiul
(iabarus, most of which may be readied
by rail, oiTer many attractions for excur-
sions by the hii^hway. The coal mines
may be reached both by hiijhway anil
rail.

Mention has been made of the extent
to which the ('laelic lannuaf^e is heard in
some i)arts of Cajie Hrelon. .\t Sydney
is ])ublisV.ed the only purely (iaelic news-
])a])er in the world. It is called the
" iSIac Talla," or the lu'ho. It is issued
weekly and circulates on both sides of the
ocean. ( iaelic sermons are still heard at
times in one of the I'resbyterian churches
of vSydney.

North Sytlney, in its j.;eo!;ra])hical rela-
tion to Sydney, is .seventeen miles
distant when the course of the railway is
followed .'iround the head of the harbor,
but it is only five miles distant by the
ferry steamers, which make reifular tri]is
between the two places. North Sydney,
on the shore of the main harbor, is the
sliip])iiijj; and coniinercial port, and in a
little over a (juarter of a century it has
develo])ed from a villajne aloiijr the shore
to a sea])ort town where a very larj.je
amount of business is done. Sailinj^ craft
of every description and of all maritime
nations, ocean steamers, liners and
tram])s, crui.sers of the Uriti.sh, I'nited
States or l'"rench navies all cast their
anchors in these waters in the course of a
season. They may come in the de])th of
winter if they choose, for the harbor is
o])en then as in the summer, and from
this port the steamer Hrnce makes its
regular trijjs to Newfoundland through,
out the vear. Other lines of steamers

make this their terminus, and an exten-
sive trade is carried on both with Ni'W-
fouinllaud and the breiich islands. Here,
too, is the Western rnion cable station,
of which fre(|iU'Ut use is made both bv
the navy and merchant marine calling at
this ])ort, and there is a marine railway
where vessels are put under re])airs when
reiiiiired. There are a numl)er of indus-
trial establishments, and the town is
geiier.illy in a nourishing condition. The
important settlement of vSydney Mines, a
mile or two distant, has also its influence
on the ])ros])erity of the town.

North Svdney has shared to a consider-
al)le extent in Sydney's advance, and in
aiiticiiKitiou of the establishnieut of an-
other extensive steel works and kindred
industries is j)i-e])aring for a boom on its
own account. North Sy<lney has ])ro-
bably the finest water system of an\-
town ill the ])rovince, being supplied from
a lake of three miles in length with an
average width of a mile and a h.ilf
immediately behind the town, and the
town is now engaged in the installing of
a sewerage system costing in the \icinilv
of 5i"i'.'>o(). I'or residential ])ur])oses
North Sydney offers iiidiu'eiiienls second
to none in the pro\ ince.

The Nova Scotia Steel Com]>:iuy, of
I'erroua, has secured the olil Svdiiev
mines, where there is an eight foot seam
of coal free from siil])hur, and it has also
purchased limestone (piarries at a large
cost. This company owns two-thirds of
Hell Island, to which reference has
already been made in connection with
the works at Sydney, and has therefore
an inexhaustible snp])ly of all the
essentials for carrying on the manufac-
ture of iron and steel, which is said to be
their intention. I'or a water su])ply it
has I'ottle's Lake, which is good for a
sujiply of seven and one-half million
gallons a day in the dry season. vSo far
as facilities for carrying on the operations
go, nothing is to be desired.

With these works once in ojieration it
will be seen that both the Sydneys are
included in what is known as "the
boom."

125

Sydney Mines, three miles from North
Sydney, and with ahnost the same popn-
hitioii when the hist census was taken, is
a famous jjlace in the history of the coal
development of Ca])e Hreton. Here is
the oldest mine in this ])art of the
country. It has a jierpendicnlar shaft
more than seven hundred feet deep, and
the mine itself extends ahout a nnle under
the sea.

Coal is an important factor in the pros-
perity of the Sydneys, and there is a
never failinj^r supi)ly of it. The (luaiitity
available in the fields of Cape Breton is
estimated at a thou.'^and million tons.
This does not include the numberless
seams less than four feet in thickness, nor
the vast body of coal which lies under
the ocean between Cape Breton and New-
foundland, one area of which is believed
to contain two thou.-iaiul five hundred
acres, with an estimated yield of thirty-
five million tons.

A number of notable mines are found
to the eastward of Sydney harlior and
along the coast as far as Port Morieii.
Among these are: Caledonia, at Caledonia;
Reserve at Reserve ISIines ; International
and Dominion No. i at Bridgejxjrl ;
Dominion No. 3 and Dominion No. 4 at
Caledonia. These mines are the scene
of exceedinglj- active operations. From
5,000 to 6,000 men are employed in them,
and from Sydney harbor alone upwards
of 8c)o,o(XJ tons were shipiied in the course
of a season, while large quantities are
shipped from the two piers at Louisbourg.
The completion of another mine, Domin-
ion No. 2, between Bridgejiort and Crlace
Bay, will add to the district one of the
largest in America, and will reepiire for
its operation alone over 2,000 men. The
output of the mines of Cape Breton
county far exceeds that of any other coal
district of Nova Scotia, and is between a
millon and a half and two million tons
a year. Some of these mines are as com-
pletely e(juii)ped as any in the world, and
the Caledonia, lighted with electric light
and furnished with iniprove<l cutting
machines, is worthy of special note. The
shipments of coal during the present

.season are enormous
5o,(K)o tons a week,
recenllv 15,000 tons

i'KRregat ver

and on • ay

were sent aivay.
With the oiiening of Dominion No. 2
these will, of course,' be largely increased.
The coal trade gives the Sydneys a large
shipping business, and many steamers
put in here for a supply the year round,
in addition to the regular coal carrying
lines. The French navy has a coaling
station here, and hence the frequent
visits of its cruisers, to which reference
has already been made. The harbor at
both Sydney and North Sydney presents
a most animated appearance throughout
the summer. With the attractions on the
land and on the water the tourist usually
finds the time he has limited for his stay
at the Sydneys all too short for what he
wants to see s-nd enjoy.

Some fine sea trout fishing is had dur-
ing the month of .\ugust at North river
and Indian brook, on the north shore of
St. .Anne's Bay, reached by a steamer
which makes the trip from Sydney and
North Sydney twice a week, the voyage
taking about three hours. The trout are
from four to seven j)ounds in weight, and
occasionally still larger. This part of
the country may also be conveniently
reached from Baddeck. Continuing the
journey further up the coast to Ingonish,
the most rugged and sublime scenery in
Cajie Breton is found. Here are hills
towering high above the sea, and in some
instances they are sheer precipices. At
vSouth Bay, Ingonish, is the liighest pre-
cipice in Cai>e Breton, connnonly known
as Old Smoky, which is a far from elegant
transhilion of the Caj) I-^nfunK^ of other
days. The village at South Hay is on the
beach, and above it the mountains rise
to a height of from 500 to i,iix) feet. In
a fearful storm in 1894 twenty-two
hou.ses, ])ractically the whole village,
were swept away. The occupants man-
aged to save their lives, but little else.
One saved a barrel of flour and a leg of
mutton out of ])roperty valued at ;p6,(.)oo.
There is always a roiir of the sea on the
beaches of this part of the coast, and all
the surroundings are sublime.

126

Aloiifr the shores of lliis const iiiul in
the forests of Iiij^onish are j,'reiit chances
for shootili.t;. Carihoii, j^eese, (hick,
curlew, ])h)ver, sni])e and ])artri(lj,je
ahouiid, and of hite moose have also been
found in the woods. Tourists can ncl
good acconiniodation at South Hay.

Sydney's Steel Works

The operations of the Dominion 'ron
and Steel Coni])any at vSydney are on
a very larj.;e scale and have hiid a most

foundland, where it is estimated that the
j^round owned by this company contains
twenty-nine million tons of ore, and a
much larj^'er body existinj,' under the sea.
The sui)])ly of iron is therefore ])ractically
inexhaustible, and it can be landed at
Sydney on the most a:!-. antaj.;eous terms.
As for coal, Cape lireton is one vast coal
field, and it is ready at hand, as is the
limestone and deloniite retjuired in the
manufiictnre of steel.

There are four larj^a- blast furnaces at

, !^^^'P^^^^B

mam ^^HHHPBIH

^pi^^^HfH

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■'■';':"'f ';'■:/[.:.

COAL Mi.\/:s \i:Ah' .\i>h'T/i s/n,\i:y. c. />•.

fiiteiioldiiial Koiilf

important effect on the history of the
progress of that part of Canada. The
progress of the work has been very rapid,
having started in August, 1S99, and a
portion of the works being now in
operation, with the remainder nearly
completed. Sydney- is peculiarly situated
for the manufacture of iron and steel at
rates which ])Ut it beyond coin])etition
with ail}- place in America. The best
quality of iron is obtained from an
iue.xhaustible supply at Hell Isliind, Xew-

Sydney, each eighty-five feel high, and
eighteen feet in diameter at the widest
part. Ivach of these will produce from
three hundred to three hundred and fifty-
tons of ])ig iron in a working da\'. There
are five grt.il blowing engines of two
thousand five hundred horse jjower er.ch,
and each engine will su])])ly fifty thou.tand
cubic feet of air per minute. These
engines are the largest ever built in the
world, each] weighs six hundred tons,
anil they have a total jJOwer ecpial to the

127

' i

■ 'i

power Unit can he exerted by twelve
tlunis.ind five liimdred horses. The cost
of these five eiij^iiies was half a niilliou
dollars. The boilers consist of sixteen
batteries of two boilers each of sixteen
thousand total horse power, and capable

null, ])late mill, machine shop, foundry,
shacks, hospitals, store rooms, etc., a
thorough system of a busy city is found.
The machine shoj) and foundry of them-
selves cover more than 6o,<kj() scpiare feet
of j.,'round. The com])any has a capital

of piiin])ing six million gallons of water of over ;f 20,000, (mw. It is believed that
jjL-r day of twent\-fonr hours. The area
of ground covered by the works of the

conijjany is four huiulred and eighty
acres, and is one of the busiest spots on
the continent. The four blast furnaces
have an estimated capacity of one
thousand two hundred tons of ])ig iron
dailv, and in adiiiliou to these are ten

in a few years .Sydney, which three years
ago had a jjopulation of about 2,500, will
have at least 30,000 inhabitants, all <hie
to its great industry. Thus Sydney reji-
resents a tv])ical boom town, but one
with such a solid foundation that the
bottom can never droj) out.

The wonderful advantages of Sydnej- for
fifty-ton open hearth steel furnaces, and produciugirouandsteelatthelowest jirices
four hundred by-product coke ovens. It can best be shown by a comparison of it
is estimated that the production will be with Pittsburg. .Vt Sydney the coal is close
some three hundre<l thousand tons of ])ig at hand and the coke ovens save ;ill the
iron and sixty thousand tons of steel volatile constituents t)f the coal. At I'itts-
l)looms annually, and in the jiresenl year burg the coal is brought from ;i distance of
the production of ])ig iron will be about about eighty miles bv rail, and the lime-
four hundred thousand tons. stone, which at Sydney is close at hand.
The works are most advantageously has to be brought a distance of one
situated in every res])ect, being close by hundred and thirty miles to Pittsburg,
the waterside, connected with the Inter- .\part from this, .Sydney is one of the
colonial railway, and with an abundant most convenient seaports on the Atlantic
supply of water for manufacturing ])ur- coast, whereas the nearest seai)ort to
])oses. The latter is procured from the Pittsburg is over 350 miles by rail, and

Svdney river, where a dam has been
constructeil which is capable of supply-
ing three million gallons of fresh water
dailv. The length of the water mains is
eight mill's. The grounds and works are
lighted by electricity, and in all the

that sea])ort, Philadeli)hia, is S7S miles
further from ICuro])e than Sydney is. It
will thus be seen what enormous
advantages lie with the iron gateway of
Canada, as it is called.

The effect of the boom on Svdnev has

o])erations machinery of the most modern been to enornu>usly increa.se the value of

description has been umi)loyed. On the
construction works alone between two
and three thousand men have been
em])loyed, at a total daily i)ay roll of
between three and four thousand cloUars.

real estate, the price in many instani"es
having been nndtijilied many times
beyond their original value. A most sub-
stantial class of buildings has been
erecleil and, as a whole, Sydney perhaj)s

When the works are in full operation at furnishes the most remarkable example

least 2,500 men will be employed, and
the pay roll will amount to about #5,000
daily, or jt^'^^zSiOoo ])er year. The limits
to which the works may be extended
cannot be defined, but the ])ossibilities
are something eiU)rmous.

The wliole works form practically a
town within themselves, where, with the
blast furnaces, the slock yard, offices,
open hearth ovens, blooming mill, rail

ill modern times of a city of rapid
jirogress.

Sydney to Louisbouri(

The Sydney aiul Louisbourg railway
affords an ea.sy way of reaching the famous
fortifications, or what is left of them, and
of seeing some places of interest betweeti
the two j)oints. The distance to Louis-
bourg is forty -two miles by rail, as the

128

railway jjoes around the shore, i'y Uie
hijfhway from Sythiev, going across J.ie
country, the (hslance is twenty-four
miles.

AlonjT this line, at Dominion, Uridge-
port, (ilace Hay and Morieu, are seen
the evidences of the great coal mines of
this part of Cajie Breton. .\t Big ('.lace
Hay is a fine surf beach where the best of
sea bathing may be enjoyed. Cow Hay,
or INIorien, is another ])lace naturally
beautiful and well adapted to be a water-
ing place. It has an excellent beach.

The choice place for a snnnner resort,
however, is Mire, with its sjjlendid beach
and yet more beautiful river. The beach
is a mile in length, and slojies so grad-

Salnion are netted in large cpiantities
around Mire Hay, and are sometimes
brought to Sydney by the cartload. An-
other good place for trout at Mird is at
McLean's marsh.

Mire ferry, by which one reaches the
fishing grounds, is twelve miles from
Sydney by a good road. There has been
a ])ro])osilion to have a summer hotel at
IMire, but so far it has not been carried
into effect.

Scatari Island, which lies oil the coast
south of Mire Hay, is the extreme "Down
Kast' of the Dominion of Canada.
Soutl' of it is Caj)e Hreton, from which
the whole island has derived its name.
It is the most easterly jioint of the land,

KCfXs ()/■■ /■tik'TfF/CA rn^ys i r i.ocisroi-kc. c /;.

hili'rroloHinl Route

ually that the bather may walk out for
two hundred feet from the shore. Mire
river, or Mire Gut, ,'is it is called by some,
is a peculiar body of water, more resem-
bling a long and narrow lake. It has a
length of about thirty miles, and in some
parts it is more than a mile wide, though
much more narrow for the greater part of
its course. It receives the waters of
Salmon river, and is navigable for boats
of five feet draft for a distance of twenty-
five miles. The scenery is of a beautiful
descrijition. and the fishing includes both
salmon and trout. The river has also
been stocked with whitefish. The sea
trout is found both in the ISIire and
at Trout brook, in t!ie same district.

and he who visits it m,ay be impressed by
the fact that for more than 2,300 miles to
the eastward and over 1,600 miles to the
southward lies the unbroken Atlantic
Ocean.

Louisbour^
The railway from Sydney has its
terminus at the village of Louisbourg, on
the northern side of the harbor. The
fortifications, on the southern side, are
reached by a drive of four miles or so, but
when a boat can be obtained a better way
is to go by water. The village itself ha.s
little to interest the stranger, but the
harl)or is a notably good one. The chief
interest of visitors, however, is in the
ruins.

129

•I

■

Di'solate fii<)ii;L,'h arc llif fortifications
of I<oiiisl)ourj,f to-day, and only to he
traced by the aid of a plan and a
descrii)lion of the ])lai'e as it was. The
order for the demolition of the fortress,
in 1760, was all too faithfully carried out,
and the very stones have from lime to
time been carried off to enter into the
foundations and chimneys of buildinj^s
all aloii,n the coast of New Kngland an<l
the ])rovinces. Thus it is that Louis-
boury, once one of the strongest fortified
cilios in the world, is now a j^rass-j^rown
ruin where not one stone is left upon
another. Once it was a city with walls
of stone which made a circviit of two and
a half miles, were thirty-si.\ feet hijjh,
and of the thickness of forty feet at the
base. Tor twenty' five years the French
labored upon it, and had expended up-
wards of thirty millions of livres or nearly
six millions of dollars in completinj,' its
defences. It was called the Dunkirk of
America. (iarrisoned by veterans of
l'"raiice, and with jjowerful batteries
commanding; every point, it bristled with
ni'i'^t j)otent ])ride of war. It had em-
brasures for one hundred and forty-eight
cannon and the fosse was eighty feet
broad. In the .garrison were six hundred
regulars and eight hundred armed
inhabitants, at a time when there were
not more than one hundred soldiers in
garrison elsewhere from the Lower vSt.
Lawrence to the eastern shore of Lake
Erie. To-day it is difficult to trace its
site among the turf which marks the
ruins. Seldom has demolition been more
complete. It seemed built for all time ;
it has vanished from the face of the earth.

The achievement of the capture of
!Louisbourg by the New Kngland forces
under I'ej)perell, aided by Warren, has
1)een commemorated by tlie erection of a
tnomiment by the Society of Colonial
Wars on a commanding position amid the
ruins. The monument was formallv
dedicated on the 1511th anniversary of the
capture, in 1895.

The capture by I'epperell in 1745 was
the fiist, but not the final conquest.
Restored to France by the peace of Aix

la Chapelle, Louisbourg was again the
stronghold of I'rance on the .Atlantic
coast, and iMench veterans held Cajie
Hreton, the key to the (Uilf of St.
Lawrence. The brief truce was soon
broken, and then came the armies of
Kngland, and Wolfe .sought and won his
first laurels in the new world. Louisbourg
fell once more and the knell of its glory
was rung. The con(|uest of Canada
achieved, the edict went forth that
Louisbourg should be destroyed. The
work of demolition was begun. The solid
buildings, formed of stone brought from
I'rance, were torn to pieces ; the walls
were pulled down, and the batteries
rendered useless for all time. It took
two years to complete the destruction,
and then the once proud city was a
shapeless ruin. Years ])assed by ; the
.stones were carried away by the dwellers
along the coast, and the hand of time
was left to finish the work of obliteration.
Time has been more merciful than man ;
it has covered the gloomy ruin with a
mantle of green and has healed the
ga])ing wounds which once rendered
ghastly the land that nature made so fair.
The surges of the Atlantic sound mourn-
fully upon the shore — the re(|uieni of
Louisbourg, the city made desolate.

Having seen the Bras d'Or and paid a
visit to Louisbourg, many tourists, pressed
for time, do not seek out the many beau-
ties of Cape Breton to which reference
has been made in the foregoing jiages.
In this they miss more than they realize.
Weeks may be profitably spent in this
fair summer land, and those who come
season after season find new attractions
at every visit. The charms of Cape
Breton are many, and time is retpiired to
see and appreciate them.

Truro to Halifax

From Truro to Halifax the railway
runs through a fine country, the most
flouri.shing portion of v.hich is not seen
by the traveller. Large tracts of rich
intervale and excellent upland combine
to make one of the finest farming districts
in Nova Scotia. Through this flows the

130

Slewiacke river, which lakes its rise
ainniij^ the hills of I'ictou ami (lows for
forty miles or so until it eiiiiities into the
Sluihenacadie at I'ort Ivllis. Tlie Shu-
lienacadie is a larj^e ami swift stream,
and was at one time lookeil npon as the
future hij^hway of commerce across the
province. Nature had j)lace(l a chain of
lakes at the source of the ri\ er, and it
would seem that art would have little
lroid)le in constructing; a caiuil to Halifax.
Meeting's were held, surveys and speeches
were luadc, nioni'V was subscribed, and the
work was bej^un It was never finished,
as orijrinally desij.;ned, ;iiul it ])robal)ly
never will be. The eiilhusiasni subsided,
the su])])lies ceased, and the great Shu-
benacailie canal was abandoned. The
ruins still exist, but the railway has taken
the place of a canal for all time to come.
Holh the Slewiacke and the Sliul)en-
acadie have j^ood fishiuf^, and so have the
l.-ikes beyon<l the latter as Windsor
Junction is approached. (iraiul J.ake
has tine fishinjr in June, July, September
and Octolier. Some years ago i2n,ouo
whitefish were jnit into this lake and are
<loinjr well. All the lakes of Halifax
count)' afford yood fishinj,', but the rivers,
with few exceptions, are short and rapid
streams which become very low during
the sun'iner season.

(lame is abundant in the country
between Shubenacailie and Canseau, and
souie of the (Inest moo.se in Nova Scotiii
have been found in tluit district. Moose,
indeed, are occasionally ca|)tured close to
111'.' railway, i'ud it is only a few years
since three of them were run down and
killetl by an ex])ress train near Welling-
ton, twenly-one miles from Halifax.

Windsor Junction, fourteen miles from
Halifax, is important from a railway point
of view. Here a branch of the Intercol-
onial, under lease to the Dominion
.Atlantic railway, runs to Windsor and
connects with that line for the .\nnapolis
Valley and the western jiart of Nova
Scotia. l'"rom Windsor Junction, also,
11 branch of the Intercolonial runs to
Dartmouth, ojijiosile Il.ilifax, a distance
of thirteen nules, l;iking in the Waverley
gold mine.

Passing Windsor Junction the next
station is Bedford, nine miles from
Halifax, and here is seen the U])per end
of that beautiful sheet of water— liedfortl
I'.asin. .\long its shores the train ])asses
and, as the city becomes nearer, the
beautv of the scene increases. .\t length
the city is reached, aiul the traveller
alights in one of the finest of the Inter-
colonial structures, the North Street
depot.

-K.

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PAW.yC/C'S LOnGE. SEAK HA UFA \'

hi tcr colonial Rattle

131

The City of Halifax

FW^^'

in;Tin';R

y oil II >^ or
old, every"
h o (1 y h a s
heard of Hali-
fax, the city
hy the sea,
and of its fair
and fainous
harbor. This
harbor, they
ha%-e been
told, is one of the finest in the world — a
haven in which a thousand ships may
rest secure, and yet but a little way
removed from the broad ocean highway
which unites the eastern and the western
worlds. They have been told, also, that
this harbor is always accessible and
always safe ; and all of this, though true
enough, does the harbor of Halifax but
scant justice. All harbors have more or
less of merit, but few are like this one.
Here there is something more than
merely a roomy and safe haven — some-
thing to claim more than a passing
glance. To understand this we must
know something of the topography of the
city.

Halifax is located on a peninsula and
founded on a rock. East and west of it
the sea conies in, robbed of its terrors
and appearing only as a thing of beauty.
The water on the west is the Northwest
Arm, a stretch of about three miles in
length and a quarter of a mile in width.
To the south and east is the harbor,
which narrows as it reaches the upper
end of the city and expands again into
Bedford Rasin, with its ten square miles
of safe anchorage. The Basin terminates

at a distance of nine miles from the city,
and is navigable for the whole distance.
The city ])ro])er is on the eastern slope of
the isthmus and rises from the water to a
height of two hundred and fifty-six feet
at the Citadel. On the eastern side of the
harbor is the town of Dartmouth. In the
harbor, and commanding all jiarts of it,
is the .strongly fortified George's Island,
while at tlu' eiilraiice, three miles below,
is McNab's Island, which elTeclually
guards the passage from the sea. This is
a brief and dry description of the city. It
would be just as easy to make a longer
and more gushing one, but when ])e()ple
are going to see a place for them.selves
they don't take the bother to wade
through a long account of metes, bounds
and salient angles. Halifax must be
seen to be appreciated.

Halifax is a strong city in every way.
It has great strength in a military point
of view ; it has so many solid men that it
is a tower of strength financially ; it is
strongly Rrilish in its manners, cu.stoms
and sympathies ; and it has strong
attractions for visitors.

The military spirit dates from the begin-
ning, as far back a.s 1749. One of the
first acts of the settlers was to fire a salute
in honor of their arrival, and as soon as
Governor Cornwallis had a roof to shelter
his head they placed a couple of cannon
to defend it and mounted a guard. They
had need for defensive measures. The
Indians of those days were hostile and
made their presence felt whenever the
opportunity offered. It was, therefore,
essential that the men of Halifax should
be of a military turn of mind, and every
boy and man, from sixteen to sixty years

132

of age, <li(l duty in the ranks of the militia.
Later, the town became an important
mihtary and naval station ; ships of the
line made their rendezvous in the harbor
and some of Ivnf,'laiid's hravest veterans
were (iiiartered in its barracks. Princes,
dukes, lords, adnurals, jj;enerals, colonels
and captains walked the streets from
time to time ; >ruiis l)()omed, lla^s waved,
drums beat and bugles sounded, so that
the pride and jianoply of war were ever
before the people. And so they are to-
day. The uniform is seen on every street,
and fortifications meet the eye at every
prominent jwint.

additions are continually being made to
these works, which are very complete and
strong beyond doubt, hut there is much
about them that is of necessity a matter
of knowleilge for the military authorities
rather than for the public.

Halifax has a s])ecial interest for the
stranger from the fact that it is now the
only city in Canada garrisoned by the
Imperial troo])s, and that it is also a British
naval station. One may see here some
of the finest trooj)S of the line and some
of the most famous of modern cruisers.
The sham fights which take place now
and then during the summer are of

HALIFAX. FROM CITAIUI.

hili'irohiiiial Kotile

Citadel hill, 256 feet above the level of
the harbor, is the crowning height of
Halifax as seen from the water. On it
are fortif 'alions begun by the Duke of
Kent, altered and improved for a time to
keep pace with the advances in the
science of warfare, but now regarded as
obsolete. There is a thoroughly modern
S3'stem of fortifications in and around
Halifax, however, the islands and prom-
inent points of the shores being fully
equipped for purposes of defence with
the latest armament of quick-firing and
disappearing guns. Improvements and

themselves no small attraction for those
who would learn something of the art of
war without its horrors.

The seeker after a good view of the
city and its surroundings may have the
very best from the Citadel. It commands
land and water for many miles. The
Arm, the Basin, the harbor with its
islands, the sea with its ships, the distant
hills and forests, the city with its busy
streets — all are present to the eye in a
beautiful and varied panorama. Dart-
mouth, acro.ss the harbor, is seen to fine
advantage, while on the waters around

133

j'o/.xr /'/./■:. i.s.iw /ma'A', //.(/,//■. i.v

the city are ships of all the nations of the
earth. No anioiiiit of elalxnalc wonl-
paiiitiiijf woiiUl do justice to the view on
a fine sninnier day. It must he seen, and
once seen it will not be forj^otten.

The fortifications on McNab's and
Georfje's Islands, as well as the various
forts around the shore, are all worthy of
a visit. .\fler they have been seen the
visitor will have no doubts as to the
exceedinjj; strenjj;th of Halifax above all
the cities of .America. The dockyard,
with splendid exain])les of lvngland"s
naval power, is also an
exceedinj^ly inlerest-
injr ])lace, and always
presents a jiicture of
busy life in which the
' 'oak-hearted tars' ' are
a prominent feature.
The financial strength
of Halifax is a])parent
at a glance. It is a
very wealthy city, and
as its people have
never had a ir.ania for
.speculation the j)ro-
gress to wealth has
been a sure one. The
business men have
alwa\'s had a splendid
reputation for relia-

liilily ' anil honorable
dealing. The liauks
are safe, though the
))eo])lc liid business
until I'omiiaratively
recent times without
fci'ling that sui'li insli-
tulio.is were neiessary,
A cash business and
specie ])ayments suit-
ed their wants. .\t
length several leading
men started a bank.
They had no charter
and were surroiuidcd
by nolegislative enact-
ments. No one knew
how much ca])ital they
had, or what amount
of notes they had iti
circulation. No one cared. They were
" solid men," and that was enough ; and
so they went on for years — .always having
the confidence of the public, and always
being as .safe as any hank in America.
The chartered banks of Halifax now do
the work, but the solid men of Halifax
are still to be found in business and
out of it.

Halifar is a Hritish city in a very pro-
nounced degree — the most Hritish on the
continent, nor is this strange when it is
considered that it has alwavs been a

liilcimloiiial A'o.'/i'

POr.XT I'l.KASA.Xr /•AKK\ IIALII-AX

Inti'rcoloHia! Route

134

Kiirrisim town miiiI iimvuI jxnt llial its
couniU'rcial n-latioiis with tin- iiidIIut
country have hi'cii viTv t'Xtt'iisi\ r, and
that till- faiiiilx' tit'H hftwi'i-ii thi- |iiM)i)le of
Ilalil'ax and those of I",tiKlaiid an- very
minienius. So it is Ihul the people iiave
all that is adiiiirahlc ill IviikHsIi business
eireles and iiolite society, That is to say,
tlu'y preserve their niereanlile ^ciod names
hy iiitej^rity, and their homes are the
scenes of j^jood old-fashioned Ivnj^dish
hospitality. A stranj^cr who has the
ni/nr into the hesl soeietv will hesnre to

attractive |]iace, es|)ecially w len tile drive
is coiitiniieil past Melville I 'laml and aH
far as the Dingle. l'"roni the Arm one
may drive out on the l'ros])eet road and
around llerrini; Cove. The view of the
ocean had from the hills is of an enchant-
ing nature. Another drive is aronnd
Hedfoiil Uasin, coming home l)\ way
of Dartmouth ; or one may extend the
journey to Waverley and I'ortohello he-
fore startinj.; for home, the drive heinj; in
all twi'Uty-seven miles. To the drives
around |).irttnouth reference will he made

REGATTA ilX .\'ORTHH-i:ST A K.\r. II A 1. 11- A X

liileiiiilniiial Rnuir

carry away the most kindly recollections
of his visit. In no ])Iace will more
studious efforts he made to minister to
the enjoyment of the jfuest— it matters
not what his nationality may be.

The attractions for visitors are so man\',
in and around Halifax, that one nuist
look to the local j^uides for more com-
plete infcn.Uition. There nre many
choices in respect to drives, which can be
varied accordinj( to the time at one's
disposal. A favorite one is down the
Point Pleasant road and up the North-
west Arm. The Arm is a peculiarly

later. Excursions are also made to
McXab's Island and others of the islands.
Indeed, spe.ikinjj; ,L;enerally, it may he
said that all around Il.ilifax are hays,
coves, islands and lakes, any one of
which is worthy of a visit, so that the
tourist may see as iiuich or as littli as he
])leases.

In the city itself there is much to
interest a stranger. Apart from all that
pertains to the army and navy, there are
many public buildinj^s and institutions
which are worthy of attention. Among
these are the historic Province lUiilding,

135

u»«u»(. uam

ft HI /I I, )A'/'/ \A // 1/ // I \

with Us lij^inl.ilur h.ill all, I ilii- |>i>>

villrial llliiaiN, tilt- liL-ailliliil Diiillill-

iiiii Hiiililni)4, siMial lilsidiii- I'luni'liL'h,

lianilbiiiiit' iiinili'iii I'ltm I'lii'M, aiiyliililb

and all kiinl.-i ol |iiililii' iiihliuiliuns

sniiif (il \\liirli lii-ai ^liiwiiii^ liiliiilf

lo till' I'llaiilN ami |>lill<iiilliii>|iy ol

llif |iiii|ili-. Ilalilax has a laif^t

niiiiilii'i III I'li.iiilitb ill ]irii|i<a lion In

its tii^e, ami the realllla I'.iiiiiiil tail 111

be gtiiiil. Till' I'lililii- C.aiili-iift III Iiiii^iiij4

to llif lih will 111-

tiiiiiiil a imibl |ilfaaaiil

relrual, willi I II t- l i

Ireea ami llowers, foiiii

(uiiia, laUt-H, ami iiiul

ami hliaily \v a I k s ,

Here oiii- may tiijny

llle lia^^raiiif nl' iia

tine ill all its i^lniN ,

w li i 1 f 111 I- !• \ f is

feasteil with iialine's

lieaiitii'h, I'lithii f^ai-

(leiiii, ill iintpiirtiiiii to

their si/e, have no

bU|ieriiir ill the eitieu

of Aiiieriia. 'I'lieiraiea

ibaliiiiit loinlt'eii ai'i'eii,

ami t*ver\ \aiil of the

Cllltivateil y^ III II II il

lii'.ilM i'\ lili'lli I' III the
Iii'mI III ta»lt' III ili'bi}^!)
ami I'M'i lllinll. I'liillt
r I 1' .1 M a II I I'a ik ib
alliilhi I e\ieeililiyly
litautiliil plai'e, with
lln illi\iri ami |ialll-
\\n\ h anil 1 111- MiM I liibu
.It liaiiil

( hii nhonlil lia\e a
.-^.lil nil lli'ilfiiiil Itabin,
lli.il lali i'\|iaiibe of
ual^'i, liiiiail, ilt'ip,
liliii' ami litaiiliUil.
lieii' il in that v at htb
ami liiiala III all kimlb
alt' III lit' fiiilliil taking
aiU tilllaf^i' III bii lali a
I 1 iiiMlll^; K idll II tl,
n|iii'ailiii^ their bailb
lietore till- lilfezeb
wliii'h I'liiiii' III frotii
till' Alklllllr II vv.ia nil Ihi- slliilt- iif lllib
llabin that the I Hike of Kent hail liib
I'eaiiU'iii'i', allil llli' reniaillb iif the lllllbk'
jiavillnii btill Miami nil a hi i^lit whiih
iiVtrlnnka lilt- water. The " I'lillte'b

l.nil^^f," a.a il ib lalleil, may lit- \ isiteil
iliirin>4 the laml iliivi- In lliillmil, Iml the

jilat'e ia baill> bllnin nf ilb liiiniel ^liiiy,
ami lilt' iailwa\, that iliatrnytr nf all
aelllillltlit, iiilla ilileitU tlirniii^il the
^Inlimla^ Il waa a talllniia |ilaii' III ilb

/lit, iiii/i'i, .i' A'l'iilc-

/•..\ /A'.I.Vi /: /(•' i llAI'tl.. ll.ll II A\

Inti'uoloinui A'aitld

136

<l.tV, linwi'ViT, anil tile iiieiiiiirv iif the
(111- (JiU't'ii'b talluM will liiii^ I'duliniit; tii
lie liclil ill hiiiiiii liy lilt; Halifax |h;o|iIu.

Till: laiililiit. fur atu'iii^ Halifax tiabily
anil Hi a binall itibl liave lit;fii iinpruveil
liy tlitt fill niiiliiiii uf .ri'iiuiibi Abbiii tatinn,
willi an iilliif al i,y llnllib bliLi-i, where
slian^eib tan gel all ileairetl infuriiiatiuii,
Imtli ab III ai'iiiinilliiil'itiiiil ill tile Wiiy of
liiiaiil anil ab tu iniilib amniiil tile city
atul thliill^ll lilt' |il>i\Ulii'. Il> tile elYiiltb
uf tilib abbiii'iatiiHi a liailim btealllliiuit
tibi'vii'e liab liieii aiiangeil, making two
Iri))!) H ilay arnpiiii lieiUiml llabin, llie
Kableni I'abbage ami the Nintliwcbl
Ann, at a very niinierate i liarj^e tu
pabbeiif^eib, ami ii|ieii air liaml rumerls
are f^iveli twu liit^litb earh week at (iieen-
liank ilnring the liiuriul seabun. It Una

alsii beiiueil a vote liy tile lity inlimil uf
a biiiii biiitu ieiit til piiiviile a iiiiiiiljer iif
halliillg liiiiibi-b, ami ib in ntlier w,i\s
seeking tu aiil tile btialigei in Ilib agiee-
alile tabk uf beeiny tile ilty ami itb bur-
lonmlingb tu lite hesl ailvanlage.

'I'lie |iii|inlatiiin uf Halifax, which ilues
nut imlmle the tiiwn uf liaitniunth mi the
ulher biile uf the harlioi', ib uvei 4ii,ikiu,
The i-ity ib llie beat uf many iinpurtaiit
imliibtrieb, ami itb Inibinebb hunbCb have a
high btaiiiling in the mmmiMtial wmlil.
Cuilherv.ilU e ab In.ve been the Imblnebb
liulhuilb, the i'it> ib alneast uf the limeb
in itb luinnu-nial eiiter|iiibe, ami buine uf
the liiibim-bb liliii'kb are inuiUib uf iheir
kiml Theie ib a tine elec-lrie railwav
aer\ iie, ami in ulher rebpertb, iiiilmling
the hiitelb, the city, with all itb amieiit
abbuciatiuiib, ib in lim- w ith the w iihawake
rities uf the age.

The marine railway ami ilr> ilm k are
aiming the ulijectb uf inteu-bt, ami when
line lii'giiib tu gii aiiiiiml the harliur he
liiiilb mure than enuugh In engage liib
alteiilinii Halifax lb a very live beaiiuil
It luib I'uminnnuatiiin with all parlb uf
the wiirlil hy bteaiiier ami sailing vebbel.
Hither I'ume the ocean bteameib with
inailb ami pabbeiigerb, ami iinnilieib uf
utiierb which make this a ])orl of call on
vheir way tu ami from utlier ]ilaceb. A
large trade ib carrieil tni with luirope, the

I'liiliil Stateb and the West liidieb, ami
from here albu ime may vibit the fair
llennmlab. Steamerb arrive and depart
at all liiinrb, and the liarhur ib never dull.
One can gu tu I'jirii|ie m aii> nl the
leading |i|. II eb uf Amei lea w Itlmnt delay.
The hailiui uf Halifax '» well termed
uile uf the linebt ill the Wullil The Ciini-
mercial interebtb uf the I ity li.ive alwayb
lieen iiiubt exteiibive, and bhi|i|ilng ib
alwa\b aiunml itb w<iterb in iralt uf all
kiiidb and uf e\eiy iiatiun that hab a
fiiieign trade. Tlilb liarlmi ib bix iiiileb
long with the average width uf a mile,
and ib nut oiilv a capaciuiib bheet uf water
lint a very lieantifnl uiie.

I)j^.itinuuth and Vicinity

The town uf Dartniunth, with a impii
latiuii uf ahiiilt 7,01111, ib bitnated aciubb
the harliur fruiii Halifax and ib eabily
leaiheil li\ a tiliely ei|ni|iped btealll ferry.
Ab already meiiliuiied. It may albo he
reached fruni the Interiuluiiial railway
hy taking the Harlmunth liramh at
Wimtbur Jmictiiiii The tuwn ib ,i very
thri\ing jilace, having the inaiine rail-
way, a biigar relinery and a large niiinlier
uf faclurieb. An attractive part uf the
town ib the park, which cuinpribeb aliuiit
bixty acreb and hab a lieaiililnl lucaliun uii
high griiiiml. The siewb from thib part
uf raitmunth aie extenbi\e <ind varied,
that fruin Muniit IdUvaid liein^ an ibjie-
iMaii\ line line.

It ib hy way of Itartinunth tluit L'uw
Ilay ib reached liv a drive ul nine mileb,
for bix uf which the bait water ib in view.
Cuw Hay ib a heanlifnl |ilace which f in -
iiibhes line of the iiibtaiiceb of the horrilily
literal miinenclatnre of the early betlleib.
It hab a fine lieaih, where lilt- bea ndlb
in with a magnilicenl bweep, and where
the li.illiei can bafely go a long diblance
fium the bhure, The heach ib aliuiit half
a mile lung, and clube al hand lb a fiebh
water lake. On (he mad tu Cuv\' Hay,
three niileb fiuni liaitiiiuiith, ib I'urt
Clarence. The Cuw Hay guld niineb may
albo he vibited on this trip.

A mobt inlerebling drive from Hart
inuulh ib that which lakeb the ruad to

K\7

Waverley and follows the course of the
old vShuhenacadie canal, bej^un in 1826
but never coinjileted, though used to a
limited extent for local purposes. At the
outset the estimated cost of the canal
through the chain of lakes to the Shu-
benacadie river was ^(300, 000, towards
which )f6o,0(X5was granted by the provin-
cial government. The distance was about
fifty-four miles. Over $400,000 was spent
when the work was abandoned. Portions
of the canal are still in a good state of
preservation, and maj' be seen to advant-
age at I'irst Dartmouth Lake, I'orto
Bello and other points along the route.
Several gold mines
are found in the coun-
try between Dart-
mouth and Waverley,
there being two or
three at the latter
place. Nearer Dart-
mouth are the Moti-
tagre Mines, a place
where some rich finds
'nave been made. In
the summer of 1.S97
one blast disclosed
$2,500 worth of gold,
and one nugget worth
I300 was found. These
mines are seven miles
from Dartmouth.

Other places of
interest in this part
of the country are
Seaforth, twent}^ miles
from Dartmouth ; We.st Chezzetcook,
twenty miles, and Lawrencetown, four-
teen miles. Here will be found good
scenery and bathing, while all kinds of
sea birds are abundant.

At Cole Harbor, where there is an
Indian settlement, snipe, plover, j-ellow-
legs and curlew, are also plenty.

Blue wing duck and teal are found

along the lakes between Dartmouth and

Waverley from September to March, while

• woodcock, snipe and partridge are found

in various parts of this district.

Good trout fishing ma)' be had in
Spider Lake, six miles from Dartmouth,

and in Soldier Lake, twelve miles from
the town. Grayling are caught in Waver-
ley Lake, seven miles from Dartmouth,
and the fishing stand is close to the
highway. May is the time to fi.sh for
them

East and West of Halifax

The county of Halifax extends along
the Atlantic coast nearly a hundred
miles, and has a number of fine
harbors. Its shore fisheries are exten-
sive and are an important sotirce of
revenue to the people. The Halifax
fish market is, indeed, one of the sights

■ ■'

-t

VM^ '•'■'*-* **»^>—

.i ■

^■^,

'^mm

YACHT RACING, HALIFAX

Intercolonial Roule

of the city, and nowhere can there be
seen a greater variety of the finest fish
of the sea.

The traveller may go east or west along
the shore according as his taste may be
for s])ort or for a mere pleasure trip. To
the eastward is a somewlint wild country,
on the shores of which fishing is exten-
sively carried on, and which has numerous
arms of the sea which adinirably suit the
occupation of its people. Back from the
.shore the country abounds in heavy
forests, and is abundantly watered with
lakes. This is the great country fo.'
moose and caribou. They are found in

138

all the eastern part of the country, and
within eas}' distance of the settlements.
Here is the place for sportsmen — a
hunter's jiaradise It was down in this
country, at Tangier, that the first
discovery of gold was made in Nova
Scotia. The finder was a moose hunter,
a captain in the army. Gold mining is
still followed, and some of the leads have
given splendid results.

To the west of Halifax the great attrac-
tion IS to take the Lunenburg stage line
and go to ]Mahoiie liay. The drive is one
of the most beautiful to be found. For
much of the wa}- the road skirts a
romantic sea shore, with long smooth
beaches of white sand, on which roll the
clear waters of the ocean. The ocean,
grand in its immensity, lies before the
traveller. Along the shore are green
forests, wherein are all the flora of the
country, while at times lofty cliffs rear
their heads in majestj', crowned with
verdure and glorious to behold. One of
these is Aspotagoen, with its perpendi-
cular height of five hundred feet, the
first land sighted by the mariner as he
approaches the coast. All these beauties
prepare the stranger for Chester, a most
alluring place for all who seek enjoy-
ment. It is onl}^ forty-five miles from
Halifax and may be reached either by
steamer or stage coach. The road
to it is excellent, and the stages are
models of speed and comfort. The
village has two hotels, and private
board is also to be had, with all
the comforts one desires. The scen-
ery of Chester is not to be described.
It is magnificent. Whether one as-
cends Webber's Hill and drinks in the
glorious views for mile upon mile, or
roams on the pure, silvery beach, or
sails among the hundreds of fairy islets
in the bay — all is of superb beauty. No
fairer spot can be chosen for boating,
bathing and healthful ])leasure of all
kinds than Malione Bay and its beautiful
surroundings.

The fishing of this part of Nova Scotia
is, to a great extent, for sea trout, which
are found in the estuaries of all the rivers.

Salmon is found where the river is of
good volume and the passage is not
barred, (lold river, at the head of
^Mahone Hay, has good salmon fishing in
May and June. In the other rivers to
the westward the best time is in March
and April. The sea trout are found in
the e' i^uaries at all times during the
■sumr. To the east of Halifax, fine

sea trout are caught in Little Salmon
river, seven miles from Dartmouth, in the
month of September, while further down
both salmon and sea trout are caught
from June to September in such streams
as the Musquodoboit, Tangier, Sheet
Harbor, Middle and Big Salmon rivers.
Besides this, it will be remembered that
trout are found in all of the many
lakes.

Returning to Halifax, to bid it adieu,
the vi.sitor will have leisure to examine
the Intercolonial depot, before the
departure of the train. The building is a
fine specimen of architecture -handsome
in appearance, roomy, co. able, and

in every way adapted to the wants of the
travelling public.

The Land of Evangeline

At Halifax trains may be taken by the
Dominion Atlantic route for Windsor
and points in the Annapolis Valley, the
Land of Evangeline. Beyond Windsor
lies Grand I'rc, the great marsh meadow
of former days. The Acadians had about
2, ICO acres of it when they had their
home here, and there is more than that
to-day. In the distance is seen Blomidon,
rising abruptly from the water, the end
of the Nortii Mountain range. The
Basin of Minas, which runs inland
for sixty miles, .shines like a sheet
of burnished silver in the sunnner sun-
shine.

Few traces of the French village are to
be foutul. It has vainshed from the earth,
but the road taken by the exiles as they
sadly made their way to the King's shijis
may still be traced by the sentimental
tourist.

Wolfville and Kentville are attractive
places. Bej-ond them the Annapolis

139

Valley is traversed iiiilil Anna])olis Royal
is reached, at a distance of one hundred
and thirty miles from Halifax. Anna])olis
Royal, the ancient capital of Acadia, is
the oldest European settlement in Amer-
ica, north of the Gulf of Mexico. Hither
came Champlaiii in 1604, four years
before he founded Uuebec ; and soon
after, the I'"rench colony was estahlislied
on this well chosen spot. It was then
Port Royal, and it remained for the
English, a century later, to change the
name to Annapolis, in honor of their
Queen. Deeply interesting as its history
is it cannot be outlined here. It is

»3fe,,.

■«

It- ■

^M$l

Msijp^^^^'*''*^'^^'*'' ^'""

'^■^

V-» ■ .-.rt, ',vi

■^*' ^i^f^ -'ifci

• 'W

-.- ---i

¥'

••

■■—f-^^^'^- ::\

"■■,■,.

pi'KCKi.r.s con:, ir.tt./r.w

enough to say it has shared the fate of
other Acadian strongholds and its fort
has become a ruin.

The Annapolis Valley is famed for its
fertility. It lies between the North
and South Mountain ranges ; and thus
sheltered, with a soil unusually rich, it
has well earned the name of the Garden
of Nova Scotia. The whole coast, from
Briar Island to lUomidon, a distance of
130 miles, is protected by the rocky
barriers. The range rises at times to the
height of 600 feet, an<l effectually guards
this part of Nova Scotia from the cold
north winds.

Moncton to St, John

In man}' instances St, John is the
starting point of the tourist who conies
from the United States to visit the Mari-
time Provinces, while with others it is
the last place seen before returning home-
ward. A notice of the city may be appro-
priately made here, Halifax having just
been visited, though it yet remains for
the traveller to see tlie beauties of
Prince Edward Island, and to go, if
he chooses, to the quaint and little
visited part of Canada's possessions,
the Magdalen Islands.

The journey from
Moncton to St. John,
a distance of eighty-
nine miles, is very
speedily and easily
made. The road runs
through a well settled
countrj-, nuich of it
good farming land,
while in each village
is seen the evidence
of general prosperity.
At Salisbury, thir-
teen miles from Monc-
ton, connection may
be made with the
Salisbury and Harvey
railway, which runs to
the village of Albert,
forty-five miles, and
has a branch"to Har-
vey, three miles from
Albert. The railway is continued six-
teen miles as the Albert Southern
to Alma, on the Bay of Fundy. After
leaving Salisbur}' the first place of
importance is Hillsboro, where one begins
to .see the beauties of the country as the
Petitcodiac river flows by the broad and
fertile marsh meadows. The celebrated
Albert mines were near this place, but
they are now abandoned, and no other
large deposit of the peculiar " Albertite
Coal " has yet been found. The quarry-
ing and manufacturing of plaster is,
however, still an important industry.
As the road nears Hopewell the country

iHti'ti'iiliniiul Ritiitf

Ot
dl

140

is a fine one. witli its mountains in the
distance and vast marsh meadows reach-
injr to tile shores of vShepody Bay. There
are few places where a short time can he
hatter enjoyed in a (|iiiet way than in the
vicinity of Alhert. It is a rich farinin}^
country, and fair to look upon. Large
crops are rai.sed and some of the finest
heef cattle to he found come from Hope-
well and Harvey.

Continuing on the main line the next
station reached is Petitcodiac, a stirring
village from which a hranch railway
runs to Elgin and Havelock. From
Petitcoiliac until Sussex is reached the
various villages make
a fine appearance and
give one an excellent
impression of New
Brunswick as a fann-
ing country.

Sussex and Vicinity

Sussex, with a poj)-
nlation of ahout 3,500,
is one of the places
outside of the cities
which is rapidly in-
creasing in size and
importance. It has
the promise of as fair
a future as any village
in the ^Maritime Pro-
vinces. Situated in the
heautiful Kenneheca-
sis Valley, it is the
centre of a great agri-
cultural <listrict, and some of the hest
of New Brunswick farms are in the
vicinity. Nature has made all this
part of the country sur])assingly fair
to look upon, and it is just as good
as it looks. The earth yields abundantly
of all kinds of crops, and the dairy pro-
ducts have a most enviable fame. Besides
this the peo])le have push and enterprise,
and are making vapid strides in all
branches of industiv. The village of
Sussex has a number of factories nnd
other industrial enterprises, and is fully
abreast of the times in many other
respects.

Some fair trout fishing is to be foinid
in this part of the country. To the east
and south are Walton, Cirassy, Theobald,
Bear, White Pine, Ik'ho, Chisholm and
other lakes, all within eighteen miles of
the village. Kight pound trout have
been caught in Chisholm Lake, though
fish of that size are the exception. In
Theobald Lake one man has taken ninety
trout, averaging a pound each, in two
days.

Geologists tell us that the hills and
bold heights seen in the vicinity of .Sussex
are the effects of a terrific current which
once flowed through the valley, when all

SHOT A T SAfJS/iU/'! V

Inlennlotiial Ktnile

the country was submerged by a nnghty
flood. It is thought that this was once
part of the valley of the St. John rivijr,
but when that "once " was is something
as uncertain as the authorship of Ossian's
poems.

From Sussex to St. John, fort \-f our
miles, the country along the line is well
settled and has a number of thriving vil-
lages. At Norton connection m.-iy be
made with trains of the Central railway
for the interior of (Jucen's county, one of
the finest moose hunting regions in the
provinces. Of this a further mention
will be found in connection with St. John.

141

Haiiipioii, the sliiretown of King's
county, is in great repute as a summer
resort for the people of St. John, a
number of whom have fine private resi-
dences here. I'rom this ])oint the Central
railway runs across the country to the
flourishing village of St. Martins on the
Hay Shore. Hampton ivS a very pleasant
place, and, like Sussex, is making rapid
advances year by yep",

Rothesay, nine miles from St. John,
has for many years been growing in favor
as a place of residence for St. John busi-
ness men and others, who find all the
pleasures of rural life within a few
minutes' journey from their offices and
counting rooms. Many who are not per-
manent residents spend their summers
here with their families, and the large
hotel is well filled throughout the season.
Many of the residents have gone to a
large expense in the erection of hand-
some villas, and the tastefully arranged
groundr. with their ornamental trees and
shrubbery make a fine appearance. The
Kennebecasis river flows close by the
track for a distance of several miles, the
hills rising on the distant shore in pic-
turesque beauty. As Riverside is reached
one of the the finest water race-courses
on the continent is to be seen. Here is
the scene of some famous aquatic con-
tests by such oarsmen as Hanlan, Ross
and others of lesser note. It was here on
a beautiful auLuinn morning, years ago,
that the renowned Paris and Tyne crews
struggled for victory in the race which
cost the life of James Renforth, the
champion of luigland.

The Indian names of a number of the

stations between Monctou and .St. John
are likely to excite the curiosity of the
stranger, and to cause him to wonder
why they have been so carefully preserved
in this part of the country. Thereby
hangs a tale.

This portion of the Intercolonial was
built as the European and North .\meri-
can railway, from St. John to Point du
Chene, and was completed in i860. In
locating the stations along the line
several existing Indian names were
adopted, such as Apohaquai and Petit-
codiac, somewhat changed from the
original sounds. At several points, how-
ever, there were no Indian names and
the local designations did not seem suit-
able for the title of stations. In this
emergency the railway commissioners
came to the front with a brilliant idea. It
was simply to take the local titles and
translate them into the Indian language.
With the aid of an intelligent native
they carried this plan into execution.

Thus it was that when a new name was
wanted for Stone's IJrook they took the
word "penobsq," a stone, and " sijis," a
brook, and the word Peiiolisquis entered
into the railwav nomenclature of the
continent. In the same way they trans-
lated Salmon river into Pluiuweseei), and
at one place where there was no Kuglish
name the existence of a little lake
suggested " c[uis]5em," a lake, and "sis,"
the diminutive term. Thus it is we have
(juispanisis."' The other Indian names
along the line, however, are usually
modifications of those which the
aborigines bestowed on the respective
localities.

* (lanong's I'lace-Noiiienclature.

Td3

The City of St. John

HK city of St.
John has
a history
which e X -
lends back
to the clays
w hen the
land \v ti s
Acadia and
the banner of
France wav-
ed from the
forts of the harbor and river. The story
of La Tour and his heroic wife is one of
the most interesting in the annals of
what was an age of romance. It is
familiar to all who have read even the
outlines of the early historj- of the pro-
vinces, and those who have not yet read
it should do so.

The story of the fall of Fort La Tour
dates back to 1645. Nearly 120 years
later, in 1764, a few English settlers made
their home at what is now St. John, but
the founding of the city dates from the
lauding of the Loyalists in 17S3. The
hitter, and those who took their places,
labored faithfulh- and well to build a
city, and thus the\' continued to labor
for nearly a century, when the fire of
1.S77 came and the greater portion of the
city was swept out of existence in a few
hours. The fire burned over two hundred
acres of the business district, destroyed
more than 1,600 houses, occupying nine
miles of street, and caused a loss which
has been estimated at figures all the
way from twenty to thirty million
dollars. The destruction was swift
and complete. With a surprising en-
ergy, however, considering the far-
reaching effects of the calamitj', the
people began their work anew, and the

city of to-day is far more substantial and
beautiful than the city of former years.
Fev.' cities of the same si/e, indeed, make
a better appearance in respect to the
general character of the buildings, public
and private, and some of these, such as the
Intercolonial depot, custom house, post
office, banks and churches are specially
fine specimens of architecture. The
streets in the greater ])ortion of the
city are laid out at right angles, are of
good width and are ke])t in excellent
condition. The electric car service is a
very efficient one.

There is no lack of attractive drives
around St. John. One of these is out the
Marsh road, a smooth and level highwav
which is a favorite ])lace for the wheel-
men as well as the owners of speedv
horses. The drive may be continued to
Rothesay, or beyond it. On this road,
near the city, is the rural cemetery,
located on a naturally beautiful site and
made more beautiful by ihe care shown
in recent years in the development of the
park idea.

Another drive, diverging from the
Marsh road, is to Loch Lomond, a favor-
ite place for pleasure parties, where there
is good fishing and boat sailing.

Driving through the North HmX,
formerly the city of Portland, the stranger
may ascend Fort Howe, have a view of
the harbor and city, and then proceed to
the banks of the broad and beautiful
Kennebpcasis. Or he may continue along
Fort Howe to Mount Pleasant and thence
to Rockwood Park. This pleasure ground,
which comprises .some 178 acres, has been
established only a few years, but in that
time much work has been done to
improve what is naturally an admirable
park ground. Lily Lake is included in

l;i!

143

the grounds and the drive oroiiiid it is a
pleasing part of the route.

All strangers who undertake to see St.
John make a visit to the Reversing Falls.
To see these at their hest they should
take care to go at or about the time of
low water, for at half tide the falls dis-
appear. The phenomenon is easily under-
stood when the nature of the river in
reference to its outlet is considered. The
river St. John takes its rise in the State of
Maine and flows over 450 miles until it is
emptied in the harbor on the Hay of
Fundy. It, with its tributaries, drains
two million acres in Quebec, six millions
in Maine, and nine millions in New
Brunswick. Vet this great body of water
is all emptied into the sea through a
rocky chasm a little over 500 feet wide.
Here a fall is formed. It is a ])eculiar
fall. At high tide the sea has a descent
of fifteen feet into the river, and at low
tide the river has a like fall into the sea.
It is only at half-tide, or slack water, that
this part of the river may be navigated
in safety. At other times a wild tumult
of the waters meets the eye. Across this
chasm is strel'.h'jd the vSuspension l?ridg ,
seventy feel ao )ve the highest tide, and
with a sjjan of 640 feet. This structure
was projected and built by the energv of
one man, the late William K. Reynolds.
Few besides the projector had any faith
in the undertaking, and he, therefore,
assumed the whole financial and other
redpoll, ibility, not a dollar being paid by
tl;? shareholders until the bridge was
opened to the public. In 1.S75 the bridge
was purchased from the shareholders bj*
the Provincial government and is now a
free highway.

A short distance above the Suspension
Bridge is the sjjlendid Cantilever Bridge
which gives the Intercolonial connection
with the Canadian Pacific railway and
the vast systems of the Dominion and the
United States. Until 1885 travellers to
and from Western New Brunswick and
the New Hngland States were obliged to
cross the harbor by ferry and be driven
across the cit)* in order to make connec-
tion. In October of that year the bridge

was opened for traffic, and the former
gap of two miles between the two rail-
ways was forever closed. The bridge is
a beautiful and most substantial struc-
ture. High above the rushing waters its
graceful outlines, seen from a distance,
convey no idea of its wonderful solidity
and .strength. Solid and .strong it is,
however. All the resources of modern
engineering have been utilized in its
construction, and its foundations are
njwn the solid rock. The main sjian is
447 feet in length.

Near the bridges, on the west side of
the river, is the Provincial Lunatic
Asylum. Beyotul this is the busy village
of I''airville, after jiassing through which
one reaches a splendid highway known
as the " Mahogany " road. That is sim-
])ly a convenient way t)f ])roiiouncing the
name. It is usually spelled " IManawag-
onish,"butif one wants to be still more
accurate he will spell it " Manawag-
oiiessek," which is understood to be the
IMaliseet term for " the place for clams."
Along this road is a fine view of the Bay
of Fundy. with the line of the Nova
Scotia coast visible forty miles away.
Returning, a visit may be made to the
Bay Shore, where there is a fine beach
with excellent facilities for sea bathing.

Carletoii, that ])art of vSt. John which
lies on the western side of the harbor, is
in a nmnicipal sen.se the West Knd, and
has an importance in the commercial
affairs of St. John from the fact that
extensive harbor improvements have been
made at >Sand Point. Here is situated
the grain elevator, with a capacity of
300,000 bushels, and in the construction
of wharves, warehouses and docks the
city has expended over ;fSoo,ooo within
the last few years. During the winter
season several lines of transatlantic
steamers make this their Canadian poM
for loading cargoes sent by rail from the
west, and tliis part of Carleton is a very
busy ])lace throughout the season.

The tides in the harbor of St. John have
an average rise and fall of twenty-six feet,
and ice is unknown during the most
severe winters. The harbor is a good

144

■^

( lie ill other respects, vvitli plenty of room
and a jjood deptli of water. Ships of any
size can lie safely at the wharves or at
anchor in the stream, well sheltered from
the storms which ra^e without. .\t the
entrance is Partridge Islan<l, a liK'l't.
si>.;nal and cpiarantine station ; with this
once pro])erly fortified, and ).jnns ])laced
on the o])posite shore of the mainland, no
hostile fleet could hopetoji;ain the harhor
without a desperate stru>j)j;le. The harhor
proper hounds the city on the west and
south ; to the east is Courteiiay Hay,
which hecomes a i)laiii of mud when the
tide is out. Some fine vessels have been
built on this hay, and it has excellent
weir fislieries. The fisheries of this and
other parts of the harbor are prosecuted
with frood success and jjive employment
to a larj^e number of men. It is from
these fishermen that such oarsmen as the
Paris crew, Ross, Brayley and others have
risen to be famous.

Partridge Island, like Oros.se lie, below
Quebec, has a melancholy interest from
the fact that it is the resting place of the
bodies of more than six hundred Irifii
immigrants, who died there of the ship
fever (typhus) in the year 1847. Over
looking this on the Carleton heights is a
martello tower, dating back only to 1812^
but which strangers often imagine is an
old French fort. The site of the famous
Fort La Tour is further up the harbor on
the Carleton side, opposite Navy Island.
The place has been built upon, but a por-
tion of one of the bastions, built either in
the time of the French or during the
English occupation of Fort Frederick,
may still be traced. While the surround-
ings of to-day are not suggestive of the
sublime, this is really a notable spot to
those who have read the early history of
the country. This is the ])lace where
lived and died Madame La Tour, " the
first and greatest of Acadian heroines — a
woman whose name is as proudly
enshrined in the history of this land as
that of any sceptred queen in European
story."*

The N. B. Tourist Association, which
has an office at the Board of Trade rooms.

85 I'rince William Street, is seeking to
make the attractions of St. John and the
province better known abroad, ami will
be glad to furnish to strangers informa-
tion on points of interest, as well as to
hotels and houses where private board
can be secured.

St. John has a ])oi)idation of about
50,000. It is an essentially maritime
city, and vast (juantities of lumber and
other products are annually shipped to
oiher countries. In the <Iays of wooden
ships, ship-building was a prominent
industry, but with its decline other more
varied and more permanent industries
have taken the ])lace of the ship-yards,
and the number of industrial establish-
ments is steadily on the increase. The
city is a terminus of the Intercolonial,
Canadian Pacific and Shore Line rail-
ways, and is thus in touch with all parts
of Canada and the United States. It has
communication by steamer with Boston,
Digb}' and Annapolis, Fredericton and
points in the Bay of Fundy, and is easily
reached from any point of the continent.
The climate, like that of all parts of the
Maritime Provinces, is a bracing one, a
delightful feature being the cool nights
during the summer. The leading hotels
have a deservedly high reputation.

Many sportsmen are not aware that St.
John is the most convenient ])oint from
which to reach one of the best moose
hunting grounds in the i)rovince. These
are in (Jueens county, and are reached
in the short space of five or six hours,
without the usual fatigue entailed by a
long and tiresome journey over rough
roads. Arriving in St. John the hunter
can procure everything required in the
way of supplies, and taking a train on
the Intercolonial can connect with the
Central railway at Hampton or Norton.
The latter road will take him to Cody's,
at Washademoak Lake, and from there
he can drive up the Canaan river, twelve
or fourteen miles, to the F'orked .Streams.
He will be in the moose country from
the time he leaves Cole's Island, and he
will find moose to the north, south, east
and west of him. Guides can be found

* Hannay's History of Acadia.

146

at Cole's Islanil, wlicri' there is iilso an
hotel, Tlu- roail follows tlie Caiiaim
river to llavelock, mid only a few miles
of walkiiiK will l)e necessary. Two-thirds
of (Jiieeiis county is a moose region, and
it has been t)iil little hunted hy sports-
men.

To Frcdericton by the River

There seems no jjood reason why the
much hackneyed term of "the Rhine of
America " should he applied to the River
St. Jt)hn. Apart from the notable dilTer-
ences in the characteristics of the two
rivers and the countries through which
they How, the St. John has sufficient
individuality to be able to stand on its
own merits, and its admirers should have
faith enough in its attractions to speak of
it as it is, without seeking to give it a
title which was a misdt in the first
instance. Who ever heard of the St.
Lawrence, or the Saguenay, or the
Hudson being calle;l the this or that of
America? True, these are peculiar rivers,
and beyond comparison. So, in its way,
is the St. John.

Some of the peculiarities of the river
liave already been mentioned in connec-
tion with the falls at the outlet. The
ascent of the river by the traveller usually
begins at that part of the city known as
Indiantown, a short distance above the
falls, easily reached either by coach or
the electric cars. Steamers run daily
between St. John and Kredericton, a
distance of eighty-four miles by water,
and recent arrangements have been made
by which a fast service, with imj)roved
boats, is furnished to the travelling public.
Steamers also run to other points on the
St. John and the adjacent waters,
including the Washademoak Lake and
the Kennebecasis.

Leaving St. John the lower portion of
the river reveals some bold and striking
scenery, with high hills on each side.
At Grand Hay the river widens, and on
the right is seen Kennebecasis Hay, where
the river of that name unites with the St,
John. While the whole river is of a
character to delight the yachtsman,

s])ecial mention may be made of Kenne-
becasis Hay, a beautiful stretch of water
on which a yiicht may ^ail for twenty
Uiiies without starting a sheet. This bay
is claimed to beasdeejias Hehring Straits
and deejjcr than the Straits of Dover.

Wcstlield, ten miles from St. John, is
much in favor as a sunnner resort for the
city ])e()])le. .\bf)ve this is the Long
Hcach, with a length of si.xteen miles and
a width of from one to three miles.
Hefore entering this the mouth of the
Nerepis, another tributary of the main
river, is passed. As there are about forty
])laces between St. John and l'"redericton
where landings are made it would be too
long a task to refer to them. At the
Jemseg (Ahjimsek) is what was a historic
place during the French occupation of
.\cadi/i. (tagetown, .Sheffield, RIangerville
and Oroniocto are among the many
attractive places along the river, and they
are in a glorious fanning country. The
country is level and miles upon miles of
rich agricultural district charm the eye.
The extremely fertile alluvial soil is
found in immense tracts along the route.
A sail u]) or down the river is, indeed,
one continued panorama of beautiful
scenery.

Fredericton, the fair capital of New
]5runswick, has a po])ulation of about
7,000, and is a very delightful place for a
sunnner sojourn. beautifully situated
on the riverside, it is one of those j)laces
which are suggestive of rest and comfort.
Xot that the city is dull in a business
sense, but that the peo]>le, in their homes
and surroundings, give one the itlea that
they appreciate and enjoy the country in
which they live. The residential i)ortions
of Fredericton are very attractive, shiuia
trees being abundant and excellent taste
being shown in respect to hou.ses and
grounds.

Fredericton is not only the seat of
government, but it is the cathedral city
of the Church of England in New Hruns-
wick The cathedral itself is a beautiful
edifice. The city is also the seat of the
University of New Krnnswi;k, an old and
notable iristitution. The universitj- has

iiitii

147

•<

[A,

It/-.

a coiiiiiiaiKliiijr locution on the hill in the
rear of the city. The provincial govern-
ment hnildings are fine structures, and
there are many other buildings worthy
of attention, including the former quar-
ters of thelm])erial troops, now occupied
by the Canadi;in infantry, usually known
as the military school, and the very C(mr
plete X'ictoria hospital.

The oi)i)ortuniti.s for driving and boat-
ing in the vicinity are so numerous that
it would he out of the c|uestion to attem])t
to enumerate them here. They embrace
excursions in all directions, and all will
be found worth the time and trouble.

The l"'redericton park is well laid out,
and every season sees an increase in its
attractions as a jileasure ground for the
people.

The Canada Kasleni railwav runs from

I'redericton to Chatham, a distance of i ig
miles, connecting with the Intercolonial
at Chatham Junction, loS miles from
I'redericton. Crossing the River St. John
by a steel bridge the flourishing towns of
(lib.soii and Marysville are the first jjlaces
worthy of note. They are the scene of a
number of large industries, and are monu-
ments of the enterprise of Alexander
tiibson, known as the lumber king.

The Canada Ivistern follows the
Xashwaak river for about twenty-two
miles, and after reaching Boiestown,
forty-eight miles, it continues along the
course of tiie Southwest Miramichi until
it reaches the Intercolonial at Chatham
Junction. Hoth north and south of it are
good moose and caribou grounds, reached
from any point on the Intercolonial by
way of Chatham Junction.

A'(H AllOO/) /'.lA'A'. .V/'. ./('//. V

liileicoloiiiiil Koiile

150

Prince Edward Island

HE celebrated
William Cob-
be tt appears
to have been
in a particu-
larly hu.: hu-
mor when he
design a ted
what is now
known as the
Garden of the
Gulf as "a
rascally heap of sand, rock and swamp,
called Prince Edward Island, in the
horrible Gulf of St. Lawrence." That
was in 1S30, but the world to-day knows
more about this country than was known
then, and the Island now needs no
defender of its soil and climate. Each
season it ^rows more in favor with the
summer tourist as one of the most
attractive places on the whole coast of
.\inerica.

The only part of the indictment which
is now recognized as truth is that which
asserts there is sand on the island. So
there is, but it is not the dry, barren
SMudof Nantucket and such '•■lands, but a
vt'ry fertile quality of fine soil from which
simply marvellous cro])s are ])rodi ced.
'I'liere is no swamjj worth niLMitioning,
,inil as for rock there is so little that
iiujst of the stone for building ])urposes is
imported. I'rince Edward Island is,
indeed, one of the most fair and fertile
areas in America. It has a history unique
in the aniuds of the English colonies in
the new world. The Indians called it
Epayguit — anchored on the waves — and
when Chumplain came he gave it the
title of rile St. Jean. It kept this name,
in the Erench or English form, for nearly
two hundred years, but in 1800 it received

its present designation in honor of
Edward, Duke of Kent, father of Queen
Victoria.

When the island was ceded to England,
in 1764, the government sent a surveyor
to find out what kind of a place it was.
If he had taken the view that Cobbett
took later, a great deal of trouble would
have been saved, for the settlement would
have been made in due time, in a natural
way. As it was, he gave such a good
account of the soil and clitnate that the
paternal government decided to colonize
it with the least possible delay. The
Earl of Egmont hpd a proposition by
which he was to be monarch of all he
surveyed. His happy tiiought was to
establish a genuine fuiidal system, in
which he was to be Lord Paramount of
theisb.id. The land was to be divided
into baronies, held under him. Every
baron was to have his castle, with men-
at-arms, lords of manors, and all the
paraj)hernaHa of the middle ages, adapted
to the climate of America in the
eighteenth century. The government
did not accept this extraordinary proposi-
tion, but it dill what was nearly as bad,
and which led to ;dl sorts of wrangling
and trouble for the next hundred years.
It divided the island into blocks, which
it apportioned amonjj .some of the gentle-
men who had real or supposed claims on
tlie favor of the Crown. There were
certain conditions annexed, as to placing
a certain number of settlers on each
lot, but with an honorable exception,
that was the end of the matter so
far as the absentee landlords were
disj osed to exert themselves. Thus it
was that the land (|uestion was the plague
of the country until the island became a
part of the Dominion, and laws were

151

passed for tlie iiipraisciiient and ])urcliase
of properties hy tenants who were tired
of the old style of tenure.

I'Yoni ti]) to tip of Prince Kdward
Island is about i^VJ miles, while the width
varies from two to more than thirty
miles. In the two thousand and odd
.square miles of country embraced in
these varyinjr widths the island has more
good land, in proportion to its size, than
any part of the Maritime Provinces. It
grows amazingly large potatoes and sur-
prisingly heav}' oats, while the farmers
raise hundreds of the best of hor.ses and
thousands of the fattest of sheep, every
year of their lives. The eggs shipped
away each season are counted by the
million. The pei-ple raise enough food
to supplj- all their own wants and have
as much more to sell to outsiders. It is
altogether a flourishing country, and
withal, fair to look upon, pleasant to
dwell in, and as cheap a place as one can
find in a year's journey.

The island is reached in summer either
from Poinl du Chene, N.B., or Pictou,
N.,'^., on the fast and finelj' equipped
steamers of the Charlottetown Steam
Navigation Company. Going by the
first named route the landing is made
at Summerside, and Charlottetown is
reached by a journey of forty-nine miles
on the Prince Edw^ard Island railway, a
part of the Canadian government railway
system. Leaving Pictou the trip is direct
to Charlottetown. There is a daily service
on each route.

In the winter the government steamers
Stanley and Minto run between Pictou
and Georgetown. When they are unable
to make the passage mails and passengers
are convej-ed by the ice boats between
the Capes, of which mention has alread)'
been made.

The run across the Strait of Northum-
berland on a fine day in summer is a
most enjoya" ; trip. There are times
when the water is as cahu as that of a
placid lake. When going by the way of
Point du Chene, to the south is seen the
New Brunswick shore, gradually growing
fainter as the shore of the island comes

in view. As distant Cape Tormeutine
(hvindles to a faint line, with the smoke
of a far off steamer marking the passage
between it and Cajjc Traverse, the bold
outline of Cape I^gmont becomes clearer
and clearer to the north. As the island
shore is api)roached the red of the earth
and the bright green of the verdure show
with most picturesque effect as a back-
ground to the smooth stretch of water, in
which is mirrored the glory of the sun-
light from the western sky. Under such
conditions the first impressions of Prince
Edward Island must always be such as
will long be remembered, wherever one
maj- go.

Summerside is the landing place by
this route, and is prettily situated, with
much to commend it to the tourist. A
beautiful little island, seen to the right
on entering the harbor, has been deemed
a good site for a summerhotel, while just
beyond it is the mouth of the Dunk river,
one of the be.st of the trout streams and
also a salmon river. The town overlooks
the waters of Bedeque Bay, and the dis-
tance overland to Richmond Bay, on the
north shore, is but a few miles, for this is
one of the several places where but a
narrow slip of soil separates the waters
of the Strait from those of the Gulf of vSt.
Lawrence. It would not be difficult to
separate the various peninsulas and make
four islands where nature has placed only
one, and thus rival Cape Breton as a
much cut up country.

From a hill in the rear of Summerside
is a glorious prospect of the country and
of the waters to the north and south.
Looking one way, Bedeque Bay is seen,
with all its attractive surroundings, while
beyond it lies Northumberland Strait,
with the coast line of New Brunswick in
the distance. In the other direction is
Richmond Bay with its seven islands, and
beyond it the Atlantic, while the irregular
line of shore and the islands that dot the
water make a fitting foreground for a
truly entrancing picture.

Charlottetown, the capital and the com-
mercial centre of the island, has a popula-
tion of about I i,ooo. It has a fine harbor,

152

opt'iiiii}^ into IIillsl)i)n)ii_i;h Hiiy, and when
seen from the water tlie city makes an
es])ecially fine a])j)earance, built as it is on
hind which has a heij^hl of ahonl fifty
feet above the tide near the shore and
rises to three times that heii;ht at the rear
of the city. A i'U)ser ac(|nainlance with
the city confirms the j>;ood impression
formed of it. Cliarlottetown is an exceed-
ingly attractive place. It is well la'd out,
and the streets are of a tjenerous width.
There are a number of handsome public
buildings, and much taste is shown in the
private residences and their surrv)undings.
Several of the churches are fine sj)ecimens
of architecture, and the new Catholic
Cathedral is one of the finest structures
south of the city of Quebec. Queen
Square, while in the business part of the
city, is a place with many attractions,
being practicall)' a public garden which
is tastefully designed and is kept in
excellent order. Some substantial busi-
ness blocks are found in this vicinity, and
here are the post office, court house, old
province building and the market house,
the latter being a place well worth a visit
on the regular market days. Among the
institutions of learning in and around the
city are Prince of Wales College and St.
Dunstan's College.

Victoria Park, the natural beauties of
which have been preserved, is convenient
to the cit}-, and is reached by a beautiful
driveway which skirts a portion of the
harbor, passing Government House and
old Fort Edward. At this end of the
city are some excellent bathing places,
and the water is of an agreeable temper-
ature throughout the summer.

Cliarlottetown has a good water system,
the electric light and other modern
improvements. It has not an electric
railway, nor does it need one, for the
highways are excellent and the op])or-
tunities for driving or wheeling are most
inviting. Beautiful scenery is found in
every direction, and with Cliarlottetown
as a centre one can spend the summer in
different parts of the island, finding a
great variety of attractions. The general
offices of the Prince Edward Island rail-

way are situated here, and by means of
this road all the principal points on the
island may be easily and sjieedily reached.
l'"or ])oinls which lie along the shore,
away from the railway, good teams are
always obtainable, and several of the
summer hotels send their own teams
ilaily during the season to the railway
station most convenient to their houses,
or to any other pL ce when notified in
advance by the travellers who are on the
way. The island is a country famed for
its good horses.

There is much that is of interest in
the immediate vicinity of Cliarlottetown.
The harbor, with its various arms, and
Hillsborough Bay with its inlets, give
good opjrortunities for boating and bath-
ing. Boat excursions may be made to
Governoi's and St. Peter islands, while
such drives as those to Tea Hill, Pownal,
Squaw Point, and to Cherry Vallej", Pen-
narth. East, West and South rivers, are
only a few of many that could be named.
Keppoch, a few miles from the city,
across the harbor, is a beautiful spot by
the bay, on the high, land of which are
a number of summer cottages. The ma-
rine view is a grand one, and there is a
beach which makes bathing a delight.
Steamer excursions along the rivers also
supply a good means of seeing some of
the beauties of this part of the island.
The rivers have good trout, and fine sea-
trout fishing is also be to had off the
mouth of the harbor. All kinds of wild
fowl are found along the shores, and
woodcock and plover are abundant in
their season.

No one can approach Prince Pxlward
Island in daylight without being im-
pressed b\- the wonderful beauty of
the shores. The rich color of the red
sandstone rising from the sea, crowned
with the vivid green of the fields
and the darker green of the woods,
gives a picture in which earth, sea
and sky combine their glorious hues
with what seems like magical effect. In
no part of Canada can more striking
combinations of color be found than are
met with in a trip to the island. In

Iff

153

THE SQfARE. CHARLOTTETOlVy, P.E.I.

Iniei tolottial Route

the clear atmosphere of the (iiilf their
brightness appears to be intensified.

Several well known snniiner resorts are
to be found on the north shore of the
island, within easy distance of Charlotte-
town. These are found at such places as
Hampton, Stanhope, 15rackley Beach,
Rustico, Malpeque and Tracadia Beach.

Brackley Heacli is reached In- a carriage
drive of fifteen miles from Charlottetown
and is well situated for surf bathing, salt
water fishing and trout fishing. The
hotel is well filled throughout the season
with boarders from the United .States.
Close to the hotel is the well appointed
summer cottage of Mr. G. A. Crane, of
New Yt)rk. Good trout fishing is had in
Black, Whitley and Glasgow ri\ers, the
trout being of good size. As for salt
water fishing, one amateur has caught
thirty cod in a day. Wild geese and
duck are very abundant, and geese are
frequently caught alive when they get
mixed up with the domestic geese around
the shores.

Rustico Beach is reached either by a
regular coach from Charlottetown, or by
taking a train to Hunter river, where
passengers for the hotel are met by a
team. There is good surf bathing at
Rustico, and the hotel is pleasantly situ-
ated near the shore. The harbor is one
of the best on the north side of the
island. The trout fishing at Mill Vale,
seven miles away, is especially good, and
there is also good fishing at Wheatley
River Bridge, Oyster Bed Bridge and
New Glasgow Bridge, all about four
miles froin the hotel.

Tracadie Beach is reached either by
driving from Charlottetown, about four-
teen nnles, or taking the train to Bed-
ford, where a carriage meets passengers
for the hotel, four miles distant. There
is a fine sand beach, and one may have
either surf bathing or bathing in calm
water further in.shore. There are ample
facilities for boating and fishing, as well
as for shooting geese, <Uick, plover, etc.,
in the proper season. Trout are found

154

at Winter river and at Campbell's Pond,
the latter beinj^ an especially >{ood place.
Deep water fishing for cod and mackerel
may he enjoyed here, as at all points
along this shore.

At Stanhojie, a few miles along the
shore from Tracadie, is fonnd another
splendid summer resort. There is an
excellent hotel, and every facility for
boating and bathing, the beach being
parlicuhirly fine. Here also is to be found
the hand.><ome summer cottage of IMr.
Alexander Macdonald, of the Standard
Oil Company, Cincinatti.

HamjHon, a beautifully situated resort,
is reached by driving from Charlottetown.

Taking the railway to Kensington a
drive of nine miles takes one to the shore
at Mal])eque, though it is only seven
miles to the hotel. Malpeque, in addition
to its other attractions, has a fame for
the plover and sea fowl shooting in the
vicinity. Good brook and sea trout
fishing are also to be had near at hand.
Here is Richmond Hay, a large and

beautiful sheet of water ten miles long,
which, like Bedeque Bay, on the south
side of the island, but less than three
miles distant from here, has a great fame
for its oysters. The island oysters are
much in demand on acconnt of their size
and flavor, but especially for the latter
quality. The large oysters are not
esteemed as much as those of a medium
size, but if large ones are desired thej"
can be found measuring a foot in length
in the vicinity of New London. The
best flavored oysters are those found up
the rivers.

Richmond Bay has not only oysters,
clams and lobsters, but many other kinds
of fish. In old times oysters were dug
here and in other bays to be burned in
heaps in order to make lime, but it is a
long while since that expensive process
has been permitted. Oyster shells, how-
ever, are still used in vast quantities as
fertilizing tnaterial, but they are the
shells of oysters which have been a long
time dead. They are dug in tlie form of

KUSTICO PHACH. P.F..I.

Inlenolonial Kuule

•■,1'

155

what is known as mussel nnnl, fnun llie
fact that there is a (leiK)sit of mussel
shells on the to]>. Beneath, however, are
layers upon layers of dead oyster shells,
soiuelimes to a (le])th of twenty feet, the
accumulations of a loni;; period, and so
brittle that they readily become pul-
verized when spread on the land. At a
cost of about jfioa farmer can build him-
self a machine to raise this mud, the work
being done throu<,di the ice durinj^ the
winter. I'or this trillin,t; expense he can
j.;et as much of this j^reat fertilizer as he
chooses to exjiend his labour u])on. The
mud is free to all comers. It is largely
by aid of this natural manure that the
island raises such crops of potatoes, oats
and other crops. The oats, in particular,
are as fine as can be raised on this side of
the Atlantic.

In going from i)lace to place over the
island the stranger cannot fail to be im-
pressed b\- the neatness which marks the
farms and the generally prosperous look
of the farmers and their surroundings.
There are no poor districts, and there is
no poverty in the country places. The
farmers own their farms, and .some of
these farms are models, supplied with
everything required in the Hue of
improved machinery. Nearly every man
who raises oats has a threshing machine
if his own and is fully fitted out in other
ways. The farmers are all of a well-to-
do class, and many of them are wealthy.
In the fields are seen huiulreds of acres
rich with growing crops, while the
abundant pastures furnish the food of the
horses and sheep which have a fame
wherever the name of Prince Kdward
Island is known. The scenery is always
attractive and often beautiful. The
absence of rocks and mountains is not
felt in the pleasure derived from the con-
templation of more pastoral scenes, while
the gently undulating surface of land
j)ermits most enjoyable journeys over
well made, dry and level roads.

Alberton, in the western part of the
island, has some fine fishing within a
radius of a few miles from the village.
Sea trout are found at Kihlare, Conroy,

Miniiui'gash river and at Bealcin's, while
there are brook trout in several mill
ponds in the neighborhood. There is
good cod and mackerel fishing in the bay,
with an abundance of geese, brant and
other fowl in the season. There is a
continuance of the o])portunitiesfor sport
in the vicinity of Tignisli.

At I'^merald Junction, thirty-one miles
from Charlottetown, a branch of the
railway runs to Cajie Traverse, on the
Strait of N'ortluimberl.uid, where the fine
scenery and other attractions make a
smnmer sojourn very ])leasant.

Soiiris is sixty miles east of Charlotte-
town, by rail. .\t Mount Stewart Junc-
tion a branch runs to (ieorgetown, to
which place reference will be made later.
On the way to Souris is the Morell river,
which is called the best fishing stream on
the island and which abounds with the
most picturesque scenery. The Morell,
with the Marie, Winter and Dunk rivers,
is a reserved stream, but fishing permits
are easily obtained. The Morell is also a
salmon river.

Souris has a great fishing and shooting
country around it, and this part of the
island is most inviting to the tourist in
all other respects. The whole shore may
be called a pleasure ground and the
opportunities for enjoj'ment are limited
only by the time at the disposal of the
visitor.

Sea trout are not only abundant in the
lakes along the shore and in the bays,
but they are of large size and jiarticularly
good quality. Some of the favorite loca-
lities are East and North lakes, in the
direction of East Point, twelve miles
from Souris, Rlack Pond, two miles, and
Hig Pond, eight miles. The finest sea
trout on the island are caught in the
small estuaries at Rollo Bay, five miles,
and Fortune Bay, eight miles distant in
the direction of Georgetown. They run
as high as five pounds in weight, and are
in such fine condition that the fat can be
skimmed from the toj) of the water in
the pot in which Ihey are boiled.

Morson's mill pond, at Duiulas, tl'.ir-
teen miles from Souris and about the

156

same (lislaiu-i- t'roni ( ici)r.;;i.l(i\vii, is aii-
olhcr notahk- fishiiij;' wattT. The poiKl
iiboiitlds ill bniliiijr s])riii,t;s, ami lu'tice the
excellent <nialily of the fish. While not
sea in)Ul, tlu'v have every a])iH aiaiice of
belli!; siuh, and aii' fully their e(iiial in
size, color, rirniiiess and other desirable
qualities. Some ,i;reat, but true, stories
are told of the catches at this pond.
due man an<l a lioy call-in sixty-
five between two i)'clock in the afteriKioii
and sunset, .\nother man caiiiihl isoiii

ridiLje, are all abundant. Tlu- sliooliiij;
of black duck at the iioiiils and rivers
begins on the inth of .\ugiisl .and ct)n-
timies until November. Cioldeii plover
and curlew shooliiij; bej^dns on the .'■itli
of .\nj,'ust and coiilinnes until the 15th of
Se])teinl)er. Cieese are very plentiful at
Ivist Point early in the sjirin,!:;. Partridge
shoolintf begins on the 1st of Octcber,
and these birds are abundant ever\ where
in the wooils in this ])art of the island.
.\11 the ]ilaces which luive iiidiux'ineiits

la
|e

fiWiWiliiUiWwi ',

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a day. A good day's catch by the same
man was of forty, raii.ging from half a
pound to two and a half pounds in
weight. This geiilleman is an American
who spends sexeral months of each year
at Souris, for the sake of fishing ami
shooting. In the suimner of 1S96 his
record was 1,750 trout in two and a half
months. And there are others.

The shooting is etpial to the fishing,
and there is a great variety of it. Geese,
<Uick, golden plover, curlew and part-

lllli icdhniull A'lilite

for the fisherman and s])(>rtsniaii are
easily reached from Souris by a drive of
from l'i\e to twelve miles over level roads,
which are ke])l in excellent condition
and have many attractions in the way of
scenery. (lood board can be had at the
farm houses, when desired, for about a
dollar a day, at such jilaces as I^ast Lake
and West River.

There is excellent surf bathing and
deep sea fishing in the vicinity of Souris.
Tlie harbor is a good one, and the town

157

is a Inisy one in a. coiiiiiiercial sense. It
is a port of call for the steamer between
Pictou and the Maj^dalen Islands, and a
convenient point of departnre for those
who wish to ^o direct from the island to
the latter place.

All aloii).; the coast between Souris and
Georgetown are found the baj'S and rivers
where trout and sea fowl abound. Unless
on such a mission, however, the tourist
will i^o to (leorf^etown on the railwiiy, by
way of ;\Iount Stewart Junction. While

and like Charlotlelown, has very wide
streets laid off at rij^ht angles. Much of
the town i)lot, however, still lacks the
buildings, and the j)lace has an air of
peculiar peace and quietnes.s. There is
}foo(l accommodiition, nevertheless, for
those who wish to spend a portion of
their time here.

(leorj^'etown harbor is one of the best
in this part of Canada, and as it has the
advantaj^e of beinj; free from ice for the
,t;reater ])ortion of the winter, it is the

POll-.VA/. JiA r. f.E.I.

Ititi'viotinuiil RitHle

at Mount Stewart Junction he can see a
fine part of the country, with some
attractive scenery, and he can also get
some f^ood fi.shinjj, by drivinj,' to ;Murra\
harbor, to which place a line of railway
is beinj.( constructed.

(ieorj^etown is beautifully situated in
what is known as the district of Three
Rivers, at Cardij^an Hay, and is an ideal
place for those who seek rest and quiet
with agreeable surroundings on land and
sea. It is the capital of King's county,

'winter port" of the island. The
steamers Stanley and Miuto run between
here and I'ictou after the close of naviga-
tion at Charlottetown and Sumuierside.
This is also a port of call for the steamer
between I'ictou and Magdalen Islands.
The harbor receives the waters of the
Cardigan, Montague and Hrudenell rivers,
from which the name " Three Rivers "
is derived.

Much that has been said of the fishing
around Souris will apply to Georgetown,

158

MorsDii's pond heinx midway between
the two places and the ))ays alonf; the
coast ))eiiij; easily reached. There are
also fine sea trout at Seal river, three
miles from (ieor),'et<nvii, and at Morrison's
Beach, a mile and a half distant. To the
south Murray Harbor and McChire's
Mills, both have fine fishinj^.

Around the rivers already mentioned is
found very ])leasinj( scenery. A drive,
by way of the ferry, to Monta>{ue river
shows a flourishiiif^ farmiiif^ country, in
which the air of j,'eneral jjrosperity is
very eviilent. There are no poor looking
farms, while many of them are worthy of
sjiecial attention by those who are
interested in aj^riculture.

It is needless to say that there is every
chance for bathitij;, boatinj^ and salt
water fishing around (ieorgetuwn.

Cardigan Hridge, six miles from George-
town by rail, has attractive surroundings
and there is good fishing in the river. A

lad has caught fifty trout here in an
evening. l'"rom here to the Morell river
is five miles, and Morson's pond is eight
miles distant, (lood accouiniodatiou can
be had in the village.

The fisheries of the island are worth
about a million dollars a year More
than a third of this is derived from the
lobsters, taken in the 329,ocx) traps around
the shores ;\nd ])Ut up in the canneries,
nearly 200 in number. The oyster trade
amounts to considerably over |[oo,oc«,
and the herring taken off shore amounts
in value to nearly (loul)le that sum.

Much more than has been told of
Prince Ivdward Island in this short sketch
will be found by the visitor who exjilores
the land for himself. It is a fair aiul
flourishing country, with pure air and a
most healthful climate, where ])eo])le of
varied tastes can find recreation and rest.
It is a delightful part of Canada that no
tourist call afford to miss.

//r.\T/:R A'/r/:A'. /:/■:./

/nt( rcdhniiitl A*(>t/h'

159

The Magdalen Island Group

"uhJ

'^^*'

TO i.V^

M.^'i

■Pr^' '

i^ -'■TP^TS

^■^^«^

i-'^

■

ln^''>i

tmJit ,m

M' Ma.i^il.iKll
Islands, sitll-
aU'il i II t he
(\litri- (pf the

c. u 1 r of Si.

I, a \v IT II (' f,
.i IT 1 i I lie
k iiowii lo llif
I u u v i s t or
even lo the
averajfL' Can-
adian. TlH-TL'
is a lia/v idea llial llicy are a loiiK way
from the beaten path, that they are
desolate rocks, remarkable chiefl_\- for
shipwrecks in the ])ast and for famines
among fishermen in the pre.sent. One
great reason why so little is known of
them a])pears to be that, with a few
notable exceptions, mnch that has been
told of them has been the work of writers
who have eitlier got their information at
second-hand or have merely touched at
the islands in the steamer and come back
on the return trip. Hence it is that the
travelling public, many of whom have
not read such reliable accounts as those

lri])s, bill IIr' slcaiiuT spiiids the day
among the islands, going from oiU' to
anoliier, landing jiasseiigers, freight .and
mails ,it llie priiuijial places and I'.dl-
ing again lo leeeive them. As there is a
mail only oiice a week, at least two hours
niiisl intervene between laniiing the mails
and calling for them at such places as
Amherst and (Grindstone, in order to give
the ])eoi)le time to answer their letters.
.\t such points the tourist can go ashore
and have a look around if they propose
to go back to the mainland on the return
tri]). A better way, however, i.i to stay
by the steamer and make the tour of the
waters among lhei)rincij)al islands. There
are many days in summer whe.i the .sea
is as calm as the proverbial mill pond
and the water is like a mirror. On such
a day, cruising among the islands is a
rare pleasure, and though there is much
the trip will not reveal of the land and its
people, a most pleasant impression of the
journey will be retained.

To see the Magdalens one should make
this day's trip, and go ashore at the last
stopping place with the intention of

of Sir James LeMoine, S. G. W. Henjamin remaining until the steamer makes its

and Rev. Dr. George Patterson, miss a
curious part of Canada when they fail to
go to the Magdalens.

The Magdalens are very easily reached
by steamer from I'ictou, N.S., calling at
Georgetown and Souris, P.E.I. From
East Point, the most easterly point of
Prince Edward Island, to Amherst Island,
the nearest of the inhabited Magdalens,
the distance is only fifty miles. As the
steamer leaves Piclou early in the after-
noon the latter part of the voyage is
necessarily made at night, the islands
being reached very early in the morning.
The i)ort first made varies on different

next trip, in the following week. In
doing this he must be pre])ared to take
the Magdalens for what they are. This
has not been the land of the tourist and
there are no summer resort hotels,
though excellent board may be had at
Amherst and Grindstone, at the houses of
the Misses Shea and of Mr. Nelson
Arsenault respectively. Life will be found
fo be quiet, anil to some temperaments it
would be monotonous, but those who are
pleased with the salt water, who want to
breathe absolutely pure air from the
ocean, who are fond of fish and are
interested in stories of the perils and

i6o

daiii^LTS of llic st'a, slumld tiiid it t-usy lo
make their week on the islands one of
eiijoyiiient.

The Maj^daleii K""""!' i'* usually ile-
scrihed as coiisisliiiK of thirteen islands,
but in this eonipiitalion are iiu-hided
some roeks whieh never have heeii and
never will !>e inhahiteil. One of them,
indeed, the Mttle Mini, is fast (lisai)i)ear-
in)< and there are many who helicve that
even the (ireat Hird is destined in time to
a like fate. Then, aj^jain, several islands
which are so joined by sand heaches as
to he actually one are counted sei)arately,
as at (Irosse He, lhoUj,;li indeed, a num-
ber of the larger islands are thus united
after a fashion. The chief islands of the
group are Andierst. I'^ntry, C.rindstone,
Alrij,dit, (irosse He (with CofTin Island,
East Island and N'ortli Cape), Hrvon
Island, Hird Rock and Deachliau's Island.
The latter is a barren and uninhabited rock ,
nine miles west of .\ndierst. The j^'eneral
direction of the .icrou]) is northeast and
southwest, the extreme lenj^th being
about fifty-three nautical miles, while the
width where the islands are united at the
southern end is about fourteen miles. In
relation to the other parts of the tiulf t)f
St. Lawrence, (irindstone Island, on the
west, is about 1511 miles from tlieentrimce
of Miraniichi Hay, New lirunswick ;
Amherst, at the south, is fifty miles north
of East I'oint, P. I'.. Island, and about
sixty from Cape St. Lawrence, Ca])e
Breton ; from East Point, in the Ma.tc-
dalens, to Cape .\}ruille, Newfoundlaii(L
is about ninety miles; from Bird Rock,
at the north, to East Ca])e, Anticosti, is
about eighty-five miles, while from the
same point to tlie Bay of Uaspc is about
150 miles. Thus it will be seen that the
islands are pretty well in the centre of
the Gulf, and tluit the ])eo])le are not
bothered by their neighbors on the shores
of the mainlaiuL In the winter, how-
ever, as will be seen later, this seclusion
has its disadvantages, and there are times
when they are very serious ones.

It is possible that many peojilein other
lands have an idea that the Magdalens
are in the immediate vicinity of Labra-

dor, and that Deadniaii's Island is the
most iinporlant of the group. Nearly a
hundred years aj;o Tom .Moore wrote his
" Lines on Passing Deadman's Island,"
and it would seem that every man who has
writleii of the Magdalens since that time
has fell it a solemn duty to ((uote these
verses. There is even a I'rench version
of them, and there may be a (iaelic one.
.\s a result, the sjjirited lines have
become a trifle hackiieye<l by tliis time,
but a more ser'-ms objection is that they
are niisleading. .Moore thought the iiann-
a striking! one for a poem, and jiictiired a
ghost ship starting for the island from
"the dismal shore of cold and jiitiless
Labrador," which is a good 2<i() miles to
the north. The average reader does not
sto]) to consult a chart, and thus the
Magdalens and Labrador are confounded
in the ])opular mind. Besides, Deadman's
Island does not take its name from any
disaster, but from its shape. Seen at a
distance, it resembles a giant body,
shroiuled and laid out ready for burial.
It is a huge rock without vegetation, is ;i
mile long and rises sharply to a height
of 170 feet. It has jjrobably been the
cause of wrecks in the ])ast, liut so
far as is known it has been much
less of an ofTeiider in this respect
than Bird Rocks, Bryon Island or the
dreaded North Beach. The fishermen
resort to it at certain seasons, but they d<v
not regard it with any special awe. It
may here be said that the peojile of the
islaiKlsare very free from superstition, and
that one may look in vain for the weird
legends such as are heard around Baie de
Chaleur aii<l the Lower St. Lawrence.
The fishermen have to face such stern
reidilies in struggling for a living that
they have no disposition to be imagina-
tive as to their surroundings.

The Magdalens are a part of the county
of (iaspe, (Juebec, but send a member of
their own to the provincial legislature.
Discovered by Cartier in 1534, the first
extensive settleiiieut of them was by
Acadian families in 176;,. The popula-
tion of all the islands is now between
5,000 and 6,000, of whom only about 5ot>

161

!irc of till- l''.ii;;lisli iMi-f. A Clur.ili of
I'^iikIhikI i-hT>;yiimii iiiiiiistt-rs to tlu'
liilttT, wliili- tliri'i' prifsls iiri' ^latioiud
aiiioiiK ilu' I'ri'iU'li, imdiT tlie Hislioii of
Cliiirlotletowii.

A huiiilrfil years iif^o, in i7i)S, Ailniiial
Sir Isaiu' Coliiii, in cruising tin- (Uiif,
took a notion that he would like to own
thf Maf^dalun Islands, and as he dcsi-rvfd
wtdl of tin.' Itrilish jiovcrinnfiil he easily
olitained a j^rant of Iheni and was le;,'ally
<lesi),'naled as "Sir Isaac Collin, Maronel,
Admiral of the Keil in His Majesty's
l''leet, Proprietor of the Ma.ndalen Is-
lands." One seventh was reserved for
the support of the Church of I'",nj.;land
clerj,'y. With the I'xception of one or
two of the outside islands, such as llryon
and Deadnian, the Ma>,'dalens are still
owned hy the Coflin family, the ])resenl
representative of which resides in l'"r;mce.
The estate has always had an a)j;ent on
the islands, and the occu])ants of land
pay a rental of twenty cents an acre
annually. I'nder recent lej^'isl.ition the
Coirm estate is now ohliyed to sell when
a tenant makes a cash tender of a sum
))ased u])on the capitalization of the
rental, l)Ut most of the tenants are not in
a position to purchase. While the whole
area of the islands is about 100,000 acres,
much of that still owned b>' the Coffin
estate yields no rental, and the total sum
collected is really (piite small. In a
financial sense the Magdalens are not a
])ayinjf investment for the estate, hut
aj)art from that it is something to he the
owner of a Canadian archijielago.

Amherst, (Grindstone ami Coffin Islands,
while separate and distinct from each
other, are so joined by sand bars that in
another sense there is ])ractically only
one island from Sandy Hook, at Amherst
to East Point, a distance of about forty-
five miles. The ordinary way of going
from Amherst to Cirindstone, ten miles,
is along the connecting sands, at low
water. There are two distinct bars, more
than two miles apart, at the Andierst
end. One must know how to ford the
intervening inlets, however, in order to
be safe. Between Grindstone and North

Ca]ie is a stretch of Nand twenty-two miles
long, known as the North Heach. Half
way betwei'll the two ])laces is Wolf
Island, a grim enough name, but not
more grim than the |)lace merits.
On this sandy barrier have been
more shiinvri'cks than in any part of the
<iulf. Ilefore the establishment of lights
ami other safeguards by the Canadian
government, wrecks were r.ll too common
arouiKl the M.igdalens, l\ing as the
islands did directly in the path of com-
merce. Many a missing shi]), of which
the fate has never been known, has
crashed in the darkness u])on the Hird
Kocks, Hryon or the .\orth Heach, and
none of those on board have been left to
tell the tale. Ivven the list of known
disasters in the memory of men now
living is a large one, Some thirty wrecks
with loss of life can easily be counteil for
the North Heach and Ivist Ca])e alone.
It was at tin: latter ])oinl, half a century
ago, that the emigrant ship Miracle was
wrecked, with a loss of 350 lives out of
the 67.S on board. The ]iriest and Mr.
P'ontiina, agent of the Collin estate, with
a few others, buried more than 200 bodies
in the sand.

.•\ weird coming ashore was that
of the English brig Josejih, many
years ago. In broad daylight, with all
sail set, the vessel came steadily on mitil
it struck at North Ca])e. Not a sign
of life was to be seen on the decks. Mr.
I'ontaiia went on board, entered the cabin
and there found five men lying dead with
their throats cut. The brig's pajjers
were missing and the name had been
scraped off wherever it had occurred.
Hy a slight clue, the identity of the vess-1
was afterwards disclosed through corre-
spondence wi'.h Lloyd's, and it was
learned also that some .sailors had lamled
from a boat on the coast of Newfound-
land and had disappeared. They were
undoubtedly the mutineers, who having
murdered the others had made for the
land, leaving the corpse-laden vessel to
its fate.

The weather observer and telegraph
operator at Grindstone is Augustine

162

I,<' lldiirdMis, a man wlio lives tn till of a
ti-rrilili- oxpfiic'iu-c on tlu' Norlli llcai-li.
He was iiialc of the bri^j Wasp, of
Quebec, which went to pieces five inilcs
west of Wall Island in a blinding miow-
slorni in November, 1S71. lie was tlie
only survivor of a crew of eleven, ami
having k'"'"i^'' t''*^ shore he wamlereil
(ironml the beaeh from Tiiesilav
until Saturday, ealiu); snow ami
finally takiu)^ shelter in an old hut,
where he fell into a dee]) sleep until he

and js'rey sandstone. In some places ibis
rises in perpemliiular clilTs sheer from
the sea, or at times overh.inj,'inK where
tile force of the waves is nearin^ away
the base. Some of these clilTs are more
than S'" I feel hinh. At other ])laees the
hills slope ).;ra(hially to the water. At
(iriudstone and Amherst there is a
succession of liills and valle\s, ami the
Sunmiit, at (irindstone, has a heij^ht of
602 feet. iMve of the other hills on the
same island are over 5<i<) feet each in

ll/K/> KfHK

/iiliifiiliiinal A'liiitf

was discovered. Roth feet were so frozen
that they subsetiuenlly came off at the
ankles. There was then no doctor on the
islands, but LeBourdais had a strong
constitution and liveil to >;et to yuebec
ill the spring, where both legs were
amputated below the knees. Securing
liis present position from the government,
he returned to the Magdaleus, married
and settled down within a few miles of
the scene of liis remarkable experience.
The foundation of the islands is a red

height. The highest hill at Amlierst is
550 feel. The soil is of fine and fertile
earth, but as fishing is the business of
the people little attention is given to
agriculture beyond raising hay and
j)otatoes.

iMitry Island, which is at the entrance
of Pleasant Hay, to the eastward of
Amherst, is one of the most jjicturestjue
of the Magdalens, with its hills rising to
a height of nearly six hundred feet and
its cliffs ranging from three luunlred to

163

four huii(liT(l fi'i'l alidvc llu' wMtci-. It is
al)i)iil two mill's loiii; ami is iiihaliitcil l)v
()iil\- a stiiali miiiihcr of I'aiiiilits.

Aiiihcisl, Of Ilavic Aiil)erl, is in I'loas-
aiit Itay and is tlii' cajiilal of IIk-
Maf^dalons. It has a conil Ininsc, a
])(>rti()n of till' lower storey of wliii'li is
inliMidi'd to 1)1' nscd as a jail in oasi' of
iK'i'i'ssily So ran- are jirisoners, liow-
ever, llif i-i'lls are seltloiii in nse. 'I'lii're
are nevei' anv i;rave crimes eommitteil,
and t'Veii the ]iett\' olTenders have
usually heeli visiting sailors or olhei
stran,v;ers. One ot' the latter was a man
who allenipled to ])rddle li(|Uor, and
who f^ol a seiilenee of three months in
jail. liel'ore the exi)ialion of his sentence
the time drew near for the last trip of the
steamer for the season. Should he serve
out his term he would have to ''"nain on
the islands for fom' or live months alti^r
his release, and lu' mij;ht insist that the
authorities should (K'fray his I'xjienses.
Confroii'ed with this prol)K'm, a]ipliealion
was ma<le to tlu' Minister of Justice, and
the sentence was ri'milted in time lo
enalile the strau.y;er to .yet hack to his
honii' hy the last hoat of the season.

M .\ndierst, ('irindstoue and other
places of call h\' the steamer, the slran,t;er
will notice the ahsence of wharves, except
small structures at which boats lie. The
freit;ht and i)asseiij;ers are received and
discharged hv boats, i'\ce])t at (irand
I'jitrv and at I'Uan^; dn Nord. .\l the
latter ])laee is a breakwater. 'I'he islands
are without wharves of any si/e, and
there is a belief that no wharf I'xtendin^
lo dee]) water could be built stroni;
enon).;h to stand the tremendous fon-e
of tlu' sea at certain si'asous. The islamls
ari' without harbors, or rather, what
may he a harbor with the wind in one
direction is ex])osed to the full fury of
the blast when the wind is in a differi'iit
direction. Thus it was that in the
memorable Anj^iisl j^ale of 1S7;,, whili'
the (iloueesler lisliinj; vessels lay in
rieasant Hay, snugly sheltered from 'he
northeast .!.;ale, the wind cime lound to
due e.ast anil forty-two of them were
dri\en ashore at Amherst like so many

chijjs. So I'lose did the\ lie on the shore
that a man walki'd over thi' decks of
twelve of them, step|>iii); from one to the
other without the need of a ])l,ink to serve
as a (.gangway. ( )n<.' vessel was landed
hij;h and dry in a held.

When till' wind blows over the
Ma.ndaleiis in he stormy .season it blows
in earnest, esi)ecially when it swce])sdowii
the C.nlf from the noithwi'St. Weather
ol)ser\er I,e liouiclais savs the f^realesl
velocilv it attains is seventv-fonr miles an
hour, but at nmch less than that r.ite it
can make matters livi'ly. II banjos a.i;ainst
the houses as thouf^li it would carry them
aloii); with it, l)ut it never does so. It
wonlil carry a man away, however, if he
were r.ish enough toslandon theto]) of one
of the clilTs in a ,uale. .\s for the sea, it
comes at the islands with a force that
makes the rocks tremble, and masses of
overhatli^iui,' sandstone tuud)le into the
ocean. It does not recpiire .inylhin;.; like
a .i.;ale to send llie sprav Ihiuj^ over the
lantern of I/bUani; <lu Nord lighthouse,
1 10 feet above the watir. .\11 this, how-
ever, is in the stormy season, and is not a
))ait of the experii'iice of the tourist who
visits the Mai^ilalelis during the peaci'fiil
days of summer.

.\mlierst Island has a ])i)piilatioii ol
about V"*' tamilies. To the west of the
laudiu.n is Demoiselle Hill, so called be-
cause some vivid imajjiiiation saw in its
outline the 'li;iire of a recumbiiit woman.
TlieclilTs here rise 530 feet from the sea,
and are the hi^lu'st on the islands. Ti'ii
miles lo the iit)rtli, across Pleasant Hav,
is (■■riiidstoiie Island, the larnesl and
most important of the nroii|). Cape
Aleiile, at the entrance f the harbor, has
a heij;ht of jSo feet, but the relll.ii kable
feature of it as seen from the water is a
sinj^nlarly clear cut profile ftn'ined by the
rou.nh massi's of rock, vSoine have seen in
it a lesemlilauce to the l.iee of (iladstone.
( ".riiidstone has .1 iioimlation of about ^510
families, and is a ])laee of I'onsider.ible
coiiimerci.il iin|)ortaiiee in ri'spect lo the
lishiui.; industry. Thi' island is some five
miles loni; ami of nearly the same width.
.\l the western side is the settlement of

164

I'U.iii!; (Ill NKnl, wlu'iv tliL'it' is ;i laii;r has hrrii tiii-nliuiifil :is lyiiii^ liclwi'iii the
sIimIIow lai^imn in wliioli liiii' si a tnnit sand dnni's \ liiili uNlcmi to Alrii^lit.

all' iaii!L;lit.

lU'l wiH 11 (".rinilstoiu' and Alri.^lil islands
is a lioal hai 1)1)1- known as Ilavii' an
Maisiiii, or Ilonsi^ Ilarhor. AlriL;lil is
ahonl four niiU's lout; and half as widi-,
and has ahoiit .',s<> lainilios. At Ilonsi-

'I'hf (".iiat I.a.nooii is in all twiiity live
inik's loiiu, and Iroin hall a taliiDin lo
live and si\ I'athoins ilrt-|) At ("iiaiid
I'jitrv it is oMT livi' miles wide and its
uri'atfsl widtli in any otliiT ])ail is three
inile^. Ill ininv ])jits it i>\ei\ iiaMow.

Harbor is a eonvetil of the Conj;riK''ti"i' Tlie western eiitiaiiie is at lIoiisi> Ilaibor.

de Noire I )ame, wheri' the \ oiiiif; woiiiiii Nine iiantieal miles from ("irosse lie,

of the islands are ediieated and from and wlioll\ separate from the uroii]) to

whiih the school tt'aehers on all ])artsof whieh reference has m) far been niadi-, is

rill- I.AMU \i, A r lURn koi k

t uti't ( i>/i'ii III/ h'lnilr

the Ma.v;dalens have been uradnaled. Hi yon Island, neailv livi' miles lon,n and

lii'twei'ii Alrii^hl anc! (iidsse IK' are tlu- var\inf^in width from the distance of a

loiii; stretches of sand of which the North pistol shot to somethinj; less than a mile

Heach is one, with a shallow and narrow at the widest part. It is the property of

passaj^e hi'tweeii them. Wolf Island is Mr. William I )iii>.;wi'll and has only some

a small elevation about half wa\ alonu livi' families usidiMit ii])on it. The island

the North Heach. Capi- .Mri^ht, on the is a splendid lishini; station, however,

island of that iianu', h.is a heit;lit of 500
feet.

Hc'lwcen ( Irosse He and Codin islands
,. what is known as Ctrand Iviilry harbor,
the entrance lo thetircat Lagoon which

and at certain .seasons the ])o)>nlation is
much lari^er. Hryon has no harbor aii<l
is not an easy ])Iace to land in ron.nh
weather. Some of the clilTs have 11
height of over .'oo feet. On the north

"'.S

side of this island there is a record of ten
\vrecks.

I';ieveii miles east of Hryoii and about
twenty northeast of Grosse He is the
most remote and inaccessible part of the
Majjdalens, llie iMrd Rocks, The sin;dler
of the two islands has been broken up by
the action of the sea. The (ireat Bird is
simply a rock, about two acres in area,
risinj^ from the sea to a height of 140 feet.
So perpendicular are the sides of this
rock that the visitor and supplies are
alike landed b}' means of a box lowered
to the water and hoisted by means of a
windlass. There is a series of ladders up
the face of the rock, to be used in ca.se of
an accident to the hoisting gear. Hoats
can approach the rock only in calm
weather, for the fury of the sea is so
terrific here in times of storm tb.at the
rock itself can be felt to shake. The
island takes its name from the innnense
numbers of gannets, gulls and other sea
birds which have nuide it their home from
lime immemorial, and which continue to
inhabit it despite the ])resence of the
lighthouse and the fog gun. The flocks
of birds are at times like huge clouds. On
the rocks their nests are found in every
direction, and in other ways the habitat
of the birds is I'li i-:<idi-iiic to more than
one of the senses. The island is not
"with spicy odors laden from Araby the
blest." In former years a regular business
was done by parties going to this islaiul
and securing large quantities of eggs,
which were shipjied to Halifax.

The Bird Rocks are about a mile aiiart,
with a sunken reef between them ami
continuing for another mile beyon<l the
Little or North Bird. On these rocks,
before the days of lighthouses and
signals, have 't)een uncounted wrecks of
which no one has lived to tell the tale.
The lighthouse and explosive fog signal
are of comparatively recent date. The
keeper, with his family and two assist-
ants, constitute tlu' population of the
islanil, and though the light is burned
only during the season of navigation the
lighthouse crew remains there through-
out the vear.

The Magdalen Islands df.pend wholly
upon the fisheries for their jjrosperity,
and in seasons when the fish fail the
inevitable result is not only adver.sitj*,
but distress which may amount to a
famine. In the winter of iSg7-9S it was
necessary for the (juebec government to
send supplies to the isl;inds early in the
season to aid in the relief of the destitute
inhabitants. When the writer was there,
in tlieprevious autumn, itwasknown there
was a hard winter ahead. The season's
catch had amounted to little, for the men
had waited and watched for the schools
of mackerel that never came. They could
have fitted out for cod, but they did not,
because cod were low in ])rice and a short

season of mackerel would be far more

profitable than many weeks of codding.
So, in something of a win or lose spirit
they prepared for the mackerel only |to
find that mackerel were a failure. The
lobsters helped them some, for the ISIag-
dalens produce three-quarters of all the
lobsters in the county of Gaspe, but owing
to the conditions of the climate even the
lobster season was short, and so hard
times came, as they had come before.

The steamer from the mainland usually
stops running about the 15th or 2()th of
December, when the ice forms around
the shore of the mainland. It is much
later before the great fields of ice come
down from the north and blockade the
^lagdalens, and the}- remain later in the
spring. The steamer may be able to
make a trip in April, or it may be much
later. In one memorable year, a year of
scarcity, it did not come until the first
week in Jure. There are thus four or
five months in which the people of the
Magdalens are shut off from the rest of
the continent, in which they get neither
letters nor newspapers. There is a cable,
it is true, but it is not used for news
purposes, and it may be out of order for
the season. When the steamer arrives in
the spring the man who wants to know
what has happened in the world for the
preceding four or five months has a heavy
contract ahead of him in getting himself
read irj) to date.

166

The people of the islands are used to
these winters, and are content enou,i;li
when times are not too hard. A field of
solid ice surrounds the main .tjroup of
islands, extending for two or three miles
from the shore. Beyond this are miles
and miles of ice which are not fixed, and
any part of which may he shifted by the
winds and currents. The solid ice be-
tween the islands makes a fine highway
for .sleighing ])arties and there is a
CO istant exchange of visits between

to get to House Harbor. l'"ive men
started from .Amherst with a .sealing
tloat, reached the schooner and succeeded
in getting a barrel of flour. They divided
it into five jiarts and each put his share
in a bag. On their way home the neigh-
bors besought them so eagerly that little
was left of their stock. One of them told
the writer that he had only two or three
I)ounds of flour in the l)ottoni of his sack
when he reached his own house.

There is an impression that sealing is a

A COA\y/:/f OF /l/RI) KOCK

hitcrcolnnial tiotiit'

the people of the different districts.
When the seasons are bad the
people get along the best they can.
When flour fails, they resort to potatoes,
and when these are exhausted in one
house, re.sort is had to more fortunate
neighbors. In that year when the
steamer did not come until June all
classes were on short allowance and
potatoes were doled out a half dozen at a
time. Early in May a schooner v/as seen
outside of the ice at Pleasant Hay, trying

great industry at the Magdaleiis. It was
so years ago, when 26,000 seals would be
secured in a season. At that time a seal
skin was worth a dollar, and the oil
brought a dollar a gallon. INIen could
make twenty dollars or thirty dollars in
a day. Of late years, however, seals have
diminished in inunber and in value. In
the season of 1896-97, only 2,000 were
taken arouiul the islands, and the skins
and oil brought only a ([uarter of the old
prices. Parties go sealing on the ice all

167

the way from Klaiij^ dii Nord to IJinl
Rocks, hauliiij4 their floats over the ice
and rowing in them across the ojjen
water. It is hard and perilous work, and
many lives have been lost when the ice
has begun to move, carrying the sealers
out to sea to perish. On one occasion
forty-two men were thus carried off, and
seven died from exposure before a rescue
was effected. A more recent case was
that of Damien Cormier, Charles Turbide
and .\rsene Turbide in the month of
March, 1897.

Cormier, an elderly man, was in tem-
porary charge of Hird Rock light at the
time, and the Turbides, who were young
men, were on a visit there. About three
o'clock on the afternoon of Saturday,
March 6th, they saw some seals on the ice
and started after them, leaving Cormier's
wife alone at the light. They secured a
few seals and started to return, when the
ice began to move. The current made it
impossible to launch the float, and soon
after the wind arose and a storm of snow
and sleet followed. The ice continued to
luove, while the unfortunate men walked
in the vain hope of finding a chance of
escape.

Between twelve and two o'clock on
Sunday Charles Turbide, aged nineteen,
the j-oungest of the party, became
exhausted and died. The others had fed
him with the warm blood of a seal, but to
no avail. They remained bj- the body,
and the next day the old man Cormier
became exhausted. He urged Arsene
Turbide to leave him and try to save him-
.self, and when death was apparent
Turbide covered the two bodies with the
upturned boat and began to walk to the
south. He kept on until he reached Cape
North, Cape Breton, where he arrived at
eight o'clock Monday night, after fifty-
three hours of exposure. His feet, hands
and face were frozen, and he was in a
dying condition when a doctor reached
him. He lived a few daj-s, long enough
to tell the story of one of the most
remarkable adventures in the history of
the islands.

There were formerly forests on tlie

Magilalens, but they have been cut away,
and in a few years there will not be
enough wood for fencing and fuel. Foxes
and rabbits are found, bui no larger
game. The islands, however, are the
kingdom of birds, of which there are over
120 varieties. As for geese, ducks, brant
and other sea fowl, there are vast num-
bers. The best shooting is from the
fifteenth of September to the tenth of
October, and the best shooting grounds
are at the ponds at East Point and West
Point, where there are geese, black <luck,
teal, golden jilover, small plover and
yellowlegs. There are also plover along
the North Heach. Two men have shot
forty geese in a day at West Point. Non-
residents nuist take out a license.

Sea trout are found at several inlets
and es])ecially at Ktang du Nord. Three
men have caught thirteen dozen of Ihem
in two days and a half.

The average temperature at the IVIag-
dalens is 55° in sunnner, and from 15° to
25° above zero in the winter. The winter
is not severe exce])t for the winds. The
warmest weather is during the last of
August and the first of September.

The j)eople of the Magdalens are simple
in their habits and lead good lives. Their
lot is often a hard one, but they accept it
patiently, thankful for the good and sub-
mi.ssive to the ills. The stranger who
visits these islands will find much to
interest him both in the place and in the
people.

The Lord's Day Gale.

The waters which lie between Cape
Breton, the ;Magdalensan(l Prince Edward
Island witnessed a heavy loss of sliipjiing
and of life in the great gale of the twenty-
third and twenty-fourth of August, 1873.
As the stranger is likely to hear more or
less of this gale when he is -ound any of
the shores named some re. to it

may be useful. The ga' ga.i on

Saturday, Augu.st twenty-third, and
reached its height on Sunday, bringing
destruction to the province fishermen and
the Gloucester fleet, both in the Gulf of
St. Lawrence and on George's Banks.
The loss of jiroperty among the Gloucester

168

vessels alone was about f ioo,o<jo, and 138
lives were lost. The figures of the losses
among the province fisherinen are not at
hand, hut they were very large. The
disaster has been coninieniorated in K. C.
Steadnian's verses, "The Lord's Day
Gale," of which only an extract can here
be given :

The Kast Wind gathered all unknown, —
A thick se..-cloud his course before ;

He left by night the frozen /one
Aiul smote the cliffs of Labrador ;

He lashed the coast on either hand.

And betwixt the Cape and Newfoundland
Into the Hay his aniues pour.

He caught our helpless cruisers there
Asa grey wolf harries the huddling fold;

A sleet— a darkness— fdled the air.
.\ shuddering wave before it rolled :

That Lord's Day morn, it was a breeze, —

At noon, a blast that shook the seas, —
At night — a wind of death took hold I

From Saint Paul's light to Kdward Isle
A thousand craft it smote again ;

And some against it strove the while.
And more to make a port were fain :

The mackerel gulls flew screaming past.

And the stick that bent to the noonday
blast
Was split by the sundown hurricane.

There weretwentyandmoreof Breton sail.
Fast anchored on one mooring ground ;
Each lay within his neighbor's hail.
When the thick of the tempest closed
them round :
All sank at once in the gaping sea, —
Somewhere on the shoals their corses be.
The foundered hulks, and the seamen
drowned.

On reef and bar our schooners drove
Before the wind, before the swell ;
By the steep sand cliff their ribs were
stove, —
Long, long their crews the tale shall
tell!

Of the Gloucester fleet are wrecks three

score :
Of the I'rov'ince sail two hundred more
Were stranded in that tempest fell.

May of the stranded ves.sels were subse-
(juentl}' got off and saved. The loss
around the Magdalen Islands, singular
to say. was small. Over 300 vessels were
in Pleasant Bay for shelter when the
wind changed from east to .south-east,
but most of them rode out the gale. Of
the forty-two that were driven ashore at
Andierst, as already narrated, the greater
portion were subsefjuently got off the
sandy shore by a wrecking company,
(yne which went on Demoiselle Hill was
knocked to pieces with the loss of three
lives. AH along the coast, however, at
Whitehead, Canseau, Mulgrave, Port
Hood. Cape North and other jilaces were
wrecks, besides a large number that
foundered in the o])en sea. An Arichat
schooner drifted ashore at Port Hood
with the whole crew of si.K men drowned
in the cabin. Two Canseau schooners
were lost with all on board.

The gale was felt with great force on
the land. At Canseau the Catholic
church was lifted bodily and moved about
ten feet. At Guysboro, according to an
unpublished history, every wharf was
dashed to pieces, scarcely a stone near
the water was left standing, and the
tidal wave left a mark twelve feet above
the highest previous waterline. A number
of boards, the remains of a f.-dlen barn,
were lifted by the wind and driven
through the side of the Methodist church,
some distance away. With such force
were they pro])elled that some oi' them
were carried through one wall into the
interior of the church and driven through
the laths and plaster high up on the
opposite wall. Those that still protruded
through the outside of the building were
so firndy embedded that they had to be
sawn away. Much damage was done to
property all along the coast.

169

Conclusion

HK foregoing; pa)j;es have taken
the reader over the entire
system of the Intercolonial
railway (including the Prince
P'rtward Island railway) and the ter-
ritory served by that system. An effort
has been made — it is hoped snccessfnily
— to point ont the many attractions to
be found in that territory, and much
detail rej^arding summer resorts, fishing
and hunting grounds, and how to reach
them, has been given. In journeying
over the Intercolonial railway from
Montreal to Halifax and return, the
traveller finds the pleasure of the grand
.scenery not a little enhanced by the
luxury of the noted Maritime Express.
This is a complete vestibule train, and is
not only a most handsome affair, within
and without, but it is exceedingly com-
fortable and convenient, and modern in
every respect. A special feature of the
service on this train is that of the dining
car. The cuisine has been developed to
a high state of efficiency and every effort
is made to meet the wishes of the most
fastidious tastes. Frequent comment on
this branch of the service has been most
favorable, and in some respects at least it
is the best in the country.

The express, baggage and postal cars,
also, are models of their kind, while the
colonist cars are superior to the first-class
coaches of many smaller lines. They
might fairly pass tnuster in the latter
grade, were it not that the first-class
coaches of the Intercolonial are again far
superior to the ordinary cars of their
class. Each of them has a length of
eighty feet and a weight of fifty -one tons.
The fini.sh, within and without, is of
poli.shed South .\merican mahogany, and
everything pertaining to the cars is of an

e(|ually elegant character. The ceilings
are beautifully finished, the aisles are
carpeted and the seats are designed with
a special view to comfort. Panel mirrors
are placed between the window .spaces,
and the whole appearance is rather of a
parlor car than an ordinary day coach.
A special feature is the smoking room, a
compartment on the same principle as
the smoker in a sleeping car, but .so large
that, in addition to the fixed seats at the
ends, four movable wicker arm chairs
are on the floor to be placed as the occu"
pants maj- desire.

The sleeping cars are rich in design,
but with plain moulding which permits
no lodging place for dust. The finish is
of polished mahogany beautifully inlaid
with lighter woods. The ceilings are of
green and gold, in the Empire style, and
the upholstering is of a rich green plush.
Wilton rugs adorn the floor and yield
softly beneath the feet. The drawing
rooms are two in number, and may be
used singly or cii suite. They are rich
with heavy plate glass mirrors, and each
room has its separate toilet conveniences.
Each of the sleepers is eighty-two feet in
length and weighs fifty-si.x tons. The
lighting is by the Pintsch gas, the lamps
throwing the light down instead of
obscuring it, as in the older .systems of
car lighting. The lavatory is large and
allows plenty of room for perfornung the
toilet, and, indeed, in al! respects, the
sleepers have the latest and most
approved ideas in their details of con-
struction and arrangement.

The dining cars, like the sleepers, have
each a length of eighty-two feet, and the
finish of the woodwork and ceilings is in
the same style. Each car will seat thirty
persons at the tables, and these tables are

170

arrange,! both for four n.ul for two end,
Movable chairs and plenty of floor space
«'ld greatly to the comfort of the
occupants. A hau.Isou.e n.ahogany side-
;^oanl ,s a conspicuous feature of each car

The service is of solid silver, and all the

abeappo„u„,eutsareofthehestqt.ality

to be obtained. The kitchens are so

situated that the culinary operations a e

-"M.sble to those pas.si„g through that
-Hi of the car, and they are .supplied with
tl't most approved appliances for their
work. In a w"nl. they are as complete
as modern ingenuity can devi.se. The

'"ealsservedouthe.se diners are equal to
those at any fir.st-cla.ss hotel, and the
rates charged are very moderate for the
excellent .service given.

II special iiilonnation i.s re(niir.<l ,„ .«
routes, fare,s, etc.. a.l.I.cs.. cthe k T '" •' •"'"•'*^""'^ '"calitv,

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Asst. <-.en. Pass. Age t • s , '""' "'""'""' •^'"■^ "• '^^ ''« ^'

Asst. Gen. .ass. A^:i:,^:JTT "'"^'' ^'""'■"-^ J- «■ '■'^^u.^:^:

171

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