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P7/^ Forest, StrcaiTii^S[tBl^ashore 33G9 y V'^^ T is the Jiiikl staleiiifnt of a fact to say tlial the Intercolonial Railwaj- of Canada anil its connections traverse a j^reater variety of tourist country than does any railway systcni . in the world. There are other lines which jj;ive access to ijlorious summer lands and to places which it has been and will be the ambition of thousands to see. There are lines which lead to localities where history has been made and the map of a contintut chan}.jed. There are a few which include some of the world's jrreat wonders. Others, ajj;ain, penetrate famous lumliuff j^'roumls, or carry one to noted fishinj^ resorts. Hy other routes are reached the sea-bathinjj; shores and yacht- in,!.; havens. Then there are lines which have tile fashionable summer resorts for their attraction, and some which hold out the ])romise of a country where there is absolute rest and quiel. I'Aery im])orl- aut railway relies on some one or more of the.se features to attract tourist travel, tnit no ordinary road professes to have them all. Railways, like individuals, have their limitations, and as a universal f^enius israre anu)n)^ men, so it is hard to find !i tourist route which can cater suc- cessfully to the wants of all .sorts and conditions of health and jileasure seekers. Now and then, it is true, there is found a man who can do many thiuf^s inconsist- ent with each other and do them all well. So there nuiy be a railway sy.stem em- bracing ill its territory .such an infinite variety of attractions that the require- ments of every class of pleasure seekers may l)e met. Such a sy.stem is that of the Intc-^olonial Railway. Its 1600 miles of track traverse the richest and most varied ,,)urist grounds of this ctnitinent, and there is nothing to e(|ual those grounds on any oilier continent. The world may be searched in vain for a stretch of terri- tory containing within the .same area such a diversity of features to attract all classes of summer visitors. The Inter- colonial and the Prince Eilward Island lines constitute "The reo])le's Railway" ill more than a limited or even national .sense. At the western terminus of these lines is the mi tropolis of Canada, the great and ever growing city of Montreal. To the eastward of this, down to the shores of the open Atlantic and through I'riuce Edward Island, is a wonderful summer country. So vast is this tourist territory and so many anil diverse are its features, that no one can hojie to enjoy them all in the course of a single season. There must be a choice of good things, and this choice is a wide one. The man who wants the luxury of inoderii hotels while sojourning in historic cities need limit his ])leasures only by the length of his purse. Kcpially great is the oppor- tunity of him whose means are small and with whom economy is an object. All classes may adapt their excursions to their circumstances, and in no country of the world may so much enjoyment be had for so small an outlay of money. As com- pared with the hackneyed tourist resorts of other lands, the cost of living is so snuill as to excite the wonder of tho.se who have had the experience of extended travel. There is so much to be had at such trifling expense that the (|uestiou of cost is less of a consideration than that of how to best improve the o])portunities in the limited period of a suiiiiiu-r ouliiiff. This depends on what is soiif^ht. l-'or the sjx)rlsnian there are unrivalled ft)rosts and streams, lakes and shores, l-'or hundreds of miles the eye of the artist may revel in the si^ht of the {grandest of scenery upon the mountains, in the vallevs and l)y the sea. The student may tread where some of the jjreat paj^es of history have been written in blood. The lover of the (|uaint and curious may search out places and people which are in the nineteenth cen- tury but are not of it, while all who seek rest, recreation and health, may fnid it in a land and a climate without a rival. On the map of Canada may be traced a line which reaches from Montreal, the commercial capital, to the city of Quebec, the ancient capital. Thence it stretches along the In has made its way, and yet nf)t marred the beauty of nature. It is a country where the traveller will find much that is novel, much that will charm, and nmch that will ever remain to him as a sweet remembrance of a pleasant clime. The Growth of a Great Railway In the year 1857 the total mileage of all the railways in British North America was about 200 miles less than that of the Intercolonial alone to-day. Canada itself then included only v/hat are now the p;ovinces of Ontario and Quebec; for New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island, were separate colonies, each of which had its own government, ;e of all after the manner of the island of New- foundland at the piescnt time. There was no ])()litical or commercial union, while the vast country to the west was undevclojied and hut little known. Kach of what were later the four orij^inal ])rovinces of the Dominion, Canada West, Canada East, New Bruns- wick and Nova Scotia, had undertaken to solve the problem of railway facilities for il.self. As early as 1.S36, a few years after the opening of the first line in England, a pas.senger railway fifteen miles long was in ojjeration in what is now the province of Quebec, and a few years later New Brunswick and Nova Scotia started rail- way enterprises which, under the circum- stances, were wonderful instances of pluck and ambition. In New Brunswick, in- deed, even prior to the date mentioned, some daring residents had organized a company to build a line from the Bay of Fundy, at St. And: :;ws, through the woods to the city of Quebec. Later they began this great undertaking, but never saw it completed. l-'or many years the railway question was the topic of paramount importance in the Maritime Provinces. The problem to be .solved was the construction of a line from Halifax to Quebec. Each province was ill earnest, but without substantial aid the task was beyond its resources. Each, however, built according to its ability. The way to better things was made clear when, in 1867, the provinces were united and the construction of the Intercolonial Railway became one of the terms of Confederation. The story of the various epochs in the history of this great highway cannot be told here. In 1876 the last gap was closed and Halifax and Quebec were united. The vision of Lord Durham in 1839 be- came a reality. The first organized effort to build an inter-provincial railway had ended in fulfilment. It seemed that the goal was reached. It was not. In these days, when the resources and possibilities of this great country are bet- ter understood than they were by the people of a generation ago, projects which then seemed vast are now .seen to be lim- ited and incomplete. For more than a score of years preno.is to Confederation the great iinbition of the i)eople was for a railway to connect Halifax and Quebec. Such a line appeared sufficient for all practical purposes, and under the con- ditions of those times it was so. There was then no (ireat West as we know it now, and there was no railway to the Pacific coast throwing open the gates to the lands beyond the seas. The condi- tions of commerce were different from those of to-day. Even in the last twenty years there have been radical changes in the requirements of places and of people. There have been still more radical changes in the methods of doing bu.siness, and in the nature of business itself. There has been a constant and rapid com" mercial growth. The railway facilities that would have been more than sufficient for our fathers are wholly insufficient for us. Quebec was their goal, and a grand one in their day, but time has changed the conditions. For years it has been recognized that the railway operated by the government in the interests of the people should follow the current of busi- ness and reach the great centre of trade. A few hours to the westward of Quebec is the city of Montreal, the commercial capital of Canada, .\lways an important centre, its importance has vastly increased with the wonderful development of the country to the westward. It is now the great emporium of the Dominion, the trade centre in touch with the Atlantic and the Pacific and with all parts of the territory that lies between Halifax and Vancouver. The necessity that the In- tercolonial Railway should extend to Montreal has been as urgent of recent years as was the need of such a railway to Quebec a generation ago. The extension of the line from Quebec to Montreal has marked a new era in the historj- of the Intercolonial and of the country. The earlier part of the year 1897 found a fast passenger service in op- eration between the metropolis and the cities by the sea in the Maritime Pro- vinces, and the people's line was serving; the people more fully than at any period in its history. With one of the best huill roads on the continent, with a ra])id thronj^h service hy trains e(|nip])ed with all that can make modern travel a luxury, the Intercolonial is alike the route for l)usiness and for pleasure. That it is the great tourist route will he realized lo .some extent by those who read these pa>{es, hut they can only understand it fully hy see- ing for themselves. In dealing with so long a route there are limits to which de- scription must he confined, and there are places u]>on jilaces to which no mere de- scri])tion can do even partial justice. Whiiv the Intercolonial may he reached hy various connections at different points along the line, it may he well in this in- stance to assume that the journey is begun at the western terminus and con- tinued to the distant ])oints of the ])ro- vinces hy the sea. Let Montreal be the starting point. MOXTREAf. FROM MOIWT ROVAr. liileiiiilotiml Route Montreal, the Metropolis 1 T O a])])!)' the term " uiag- iiificeiit " to til is },'reat city of Can- ada is not a misuse of lanKuaKe. I'rom even- point of view — i II situa- tion, environment and commercial importance, it is iidmirahlo in its details and niaf^nilicent as a whole. The lar>;est city in Canada, it stands above all others in the extent and viiriety of its com- mercial relations with other ])arts of the Dominion. At the head of ocean navijjation on the j{reate.st of Canada's rivers, Montreal is the fjreat market jilace, the ever busy commercial e.'cchanfie of the country hclwecn ocean and ocean. Here the railways centre from all jioints of the east, the west and the south. Hither come the steamships from across the seas and the sailing craft from places near and far. From this centre are distrihuted the products of many lands and from it are sent out to all the country the fruits of its own many and mighty industries. It is not a citj- of one race hut of several, and in each the hest national characteris- tics are shown to the fullest advantage in the social and ccmimercial relations of one with the other. It is a city of great enterprises where mighty results are achieved, with a record for stability second to that of no city in America, and it is rapidly advancing year by year in its progress to a still greater future. As theagesof citiesare reckoned in this new world, Montreal is ancient indeed. The story of its settlement goes back so far that it is lost in the mists of anticjuity. It was a city beyond the time of which the traditions are preserved, and it may have flourished as one when the Hascpie fishermen began to sail to the shores of the continent they did not explore. Centuries later, wlien Columbus, Cabot and Corte/. astonished the world by their discoveries there was still this jjatriarch of citiesin the north, of which they knew nothing. It remained miknown until the year IS.'^S, when Jaccpies Cartier found it an ancient walled city of the Indians, with a future which even the ardent imagination of the discoverer would have failed to picture. Three quarters of a century after Cartier came that great and singularly good man, Samuel de Cham]>lain, to found a city in the name of his king and under the flag of his country, but more that thirty years jiassed before the building of that city began with the mission of Ville Marie de Montreal. Two centuries and a half have gone by, and now u])on the site of ancient Hochelaga stands the fair and flourishing metrojjolis of Uritain's possessions in America. Not without struggle and strife ha.-, been a jxjrtion of that period. In the contest for supremacy between England and I'rance in the New World, the story of Montreal standsout boldly on the pages of history. The spots made memorable in that struggle are found on every hand. The student of history may tread where great men and their followers have trod, niid may sland where were wiliiessed some of the hri^htesl and (hirkesl scenes in tile evohition ul" a nation's destiny. Since ij^ki the llajj of Ivnyland has waved undistnrhed over the city, and the once ri /111 races contend to-day only for suj)reinacy in the arts of peace. To tlescrihe Montreal is a work for a volume hy itself. In the limits of a rail- way ),ande hook nothinjf like an attem])t at descri])tion is jjossihle. Whatever the siihject he — the vast trade and commerce, of a ]>o]>nlation. Durin^^ the last year for wliich returns are availahle, vC"'"l9 to the value of over J,S3,oc:o,()Oo were im- l)orled, while the exports in the same ])erioil were nearly #63, 000,000. 'I'hoUKh the distance of Montreal from the sea is as K'reat as the total lennlh of (ireat hritain, it is yet a husy port with an annual arrival of hetween Soo and 900 sea-Koin^ vessels, re])resentinj.; more than a million and a half of tonna^^j, in addition to 7,t)o() inlaml ves.sels. Nearly fifty million nOMfA'/OX SQCAKF. the people, the churches, the institutions or the heauties of the city and its environs —no one of these can he adequately dealt with in the compass of a few pages, nor is there an opportunity for even a comprehensive summary of all that merits attention. Briefly stated, Montreal is the largest city of Canada and of an importance commensurate with its size. With its suburhs, which are in reality a part of the metropolis, it has now about 3,^0,000 hilercolonial Route bushels of grain, flour and meal are re- ceived from the West and shipped an- nually, while on an average over 100,000 head of cattle and vast numbers of sheep are sent to ports in Europe during eacli season of navigation. The money turned over in the cattle trade alone may r)e roughly approximated at from eight to ten millions of dollars annually. The value of animals and their products shipped in a year is over $25,000,000, while that of the agricultural products amounts 10 iii^i Oltffi ue re- iped an- 100,000 ibers of (luring money ine may eight to y. The )ro(lucts X), while mounts tnalMml twi'iity-thic-o niillioii dollais. ho it is, jmiportioiiati-ly, with olher hranchfs of track'. Thi'se are some of the figiiri-s shown by the custom liouse entries, hut they give no iilea of the eiic^rnious and increasing trade of Montreal with all parts of Canada. The amount of the business done in dry goods, clothing, boots and shoes, grocer- ies and the like, can be- but jiartly realiz- ed !)'• the fad that in city and village alike over the length and breadth of the Donr inion, wher- everbusiness of any kind is carried on, the re]>re- sentatives of the great commercial houses of the metropolis will be found p u s h i n g their trade. There is no sell lenient so remote that M on tre a 1 goods have not found their way to its ])eoi)le. The city tells at a glance the story of its connuercial greatness. Four miles long by two nules wide, there are no sleepj- thoroughfares in the whole of this area. There are quiet streets in the select resi. ,'es, and after all hill an im|>erfecl idea would he conveyed of wh.il there was to see in connection with them. In like manner nothing can lie said of the jiuhlic building's, the reliv;ions and lienevidenl institutions, the harlxir and the i)uhlie works, inclndinjj the I.achine Canal Least of all, can any idea he j.;iven of the heauly of the residential secti{ re(|uirements of the present a>;e. The route taken by t' Intercolonial Railway is the most y and direct method of comniunicati 11 between the two cities. From the Honavent'ire depot in Montreal to the station at Levis, op- ])osile yuebec, is 163 miles, or ten miles less than the shortest route before the new line was opened. Topoj!;raphicallj', it is as near an air line as the jihysical ..au- ditions of the country will permit, as may be judged fronj the fact that in the 1 15 miles, comiKJsing wlnt was once known as the Drummond County Railway, there are 106 miles of tangents, .^s to grades, there are none in excess of 52 feet to the mile, and most of them are verj' much below that. On this jjortion of the Inter- colonial, as on others, as fast time can be made as on any road in America. In going out of Montreal a portion of the Lachine Canal is seen. This canal, begun i'l 1821 when such enterprises were in their infancy, is eight and one-half miles long and is interesting from the fact that it is one of the early improve- ments in what is now the largest and most important system of inland naviga- tion in the world. By this system, which extend.s from the .Straits of Helle Isle to Port .\rthur at the head of I.ake Su])eri()r ami thence to Diduth, Wisconsin, a clear waterway is found l)elween Liverpool, Kugland, and the Western States, a dis- tance of 4,618 miles. More than half of this distance is included in the inland navigation. The St. Lawrence system alone reaches through the country for 2,260 miles and includes about 72 miles of canals. The Lachine canal extends from Montreal to the low 11 of Lachine, over- coming the Lachine Rapids, the first en- countered in the ascent of the River St. Lawrence Leaving ISIoutreal on a train of the In- tercolonial, the Jubilee Hridge, ojieued in 1897, gives passage over the St Lawrence. This splendid structure was built to take llu* place of the famous Victoria tubular bridge, around anil outside of which it was constructed on the same piers, so that railway traffic was not interrupted. The work was under the direction of Jose])h Ilobson, chief engineer of the (irand Trunk Railway, ;md the new- bridge is as great an examjile of mode.n engineering as was the former oM< an instance of ;ie skill of enginecjrs of a former ger ition. The old bridge, de- signed by Robert Stevenson, was a tubu- lar structure of iron, having a width of 16 feet and a single railway track. It had a weight of more than 9,cxx) tons and cost nearly seven million dollars The whole structure, from the foundation.^ of the piers to the rivets of the roof, was a solid and substantial piece of work, built to stand many times more than the greatest possible strain from the tide, the ice, the weather and the railway traffic. The bridge was formally opened for use by the Prince of Wales, during his visit to Canada in 1S60. The present bridge is a graceful and most substantial structure. It has a length of 6,592 feet and consists of ^5 spans, with 24 piers. The s])ans have each a length of 242 feet, excejU the central span which is ,330 feet. The bridge has a width of 65 feet, with double tracks, electric railway tracks and road- wav-. The truss work has a height of 28 13 "«* I I ! . I feet. The weight of the steel structure is 22,cxx) tons, and the cost was two million dollars. Following the line built hy the Grand Trunk Railwaj-, St. Hyacintheis reached, 36 miles from Montreal. It is a flourish- ing and beautiful place with about 8,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of a number of important in-er is spanned at Drummondville by a steel railway bridge 410 feet long, and by a steel highway bridge with a length of 420 feet. The river has two sources, and while the main stream is called 85 miles long, the total is a length of about 150 miles. One of these .sources is at Lake Memphreiiiag(!g, which extends over the boundary line into the state of Vermont, and the other is at Lake St. I'Vancis, in the county of Beauce. The river empties into Lake St. Petr-r, on the St. Lawrence, about 24 miles beiv.w Drummondville. .All along its course is fine fishing, but especially at the rapids in the vicinity of the town and at the Cascades, three miles above, as well as the Hasin, nine miles below. The fish which are found are black bass of three and four pounds weight ; maskiiionge, running all the way from eight to eighteen pounds, and j)ickerel which range from one to ten iwunds in weight. These are usually caught with minnows, either real or artificial. It is not neces- sary to tell the angler that the St. Francis is not a trout river, for the presence of pickerel is evidence of that fact. When trout and pickerel meet they carry their argument to extremes, and the pickerel always gets the better of it. No .self- respecting trout will remain any length of time in a streiim where ])ickerel are abundant. Sturgeon are also found in the St. Francis, and fished for with worms. There is, however, plenty of good trout fishing along the line of railway east of Drummondville, and this is especially true of the rivers Hnis d'Pxltnond and Duchene, which lie within three-tpiarters of a mile of each other on the route, 14 ■I while another f^ood trout stream is the River Henri, four miles further east. At Bras d'Edmond, last season, one man who had half an hour to spare cauj(ht 28 trout in that time, and was dissatisfied because he had not two more, so as to make an averaj^e of a trout a minute. The trout were from eij^lit to sixteen ini-hes in lenjjtli. Good fishiiif^ is also found at other points to which reference will be made later. The Abenakis Springs, near the mouth of the St. Francis river, have a wide and increasiu)^ reputation for tlie salutary effects of their waters. At I'ierreville, in the same vicinity, is an Indian village, and in this i)art of the country iire manu- factured two-thirds of the Indian wares produceil in the province of Quebec. Drummondville lies between two rich farming districts, St. (iermain on the west and St. Cyrille on the east, but they are only part of wiiat has long been re- cogni.i:c'' as a rich agricultural region. Dairy farming, in particular, is carried on with great success, and a j)artial evi- dence of this is found in the fact that boxes of cheese, by the hundred thous- and, are handled by the railway in the course of a year. The railway pas.ses St. Cyrille, Carinel and Mitchell , until St. Leonard Junction ; is reached, 19 miles from Drummond- V ville. .\ctive lumber operations are car- ^ ried on in this vicinity, and the saw mills are a jirominent industry at Mitchell. .\t ■ St. Leonard the Nicolet river is crossed by a steel railway bridge 720 feet in length. I'rom St. Leonard Junction a branch of the railway runs to Nicolet, a distance of ; 16 miles, passing the flourishing village ; of Ste. Monique midway between the two • places. The Xicolet river is another stream which has two sources, and the se])arate branches, after running a distance of about .So miles, unite at a point a few miles fnnn the outlet, which is at Lake St. Peter, on the St. Lawrence. Half a milp oi so below this junction of the waters is the town of Nicolet, a typical French-Canadian jjlace of about 3,500 inhabitants, among whom are but a few l^nglish-speaking families. While this part of the country i.s a splendid farming region, it is alsj engaged to a consider- able extent in the lumber industry. The four saw mills at the town produce from eight to ten million feet of .sawn lumber a year. There are also four large mills in the two miles between Nicolet and Lake St. Peter, and no less than 35 in the comity. In the county, too, are alxjut 30 grist mills and an equal number of cheese and butter factories, the number increas- ing every year. This is a great country for dairy pro- ducts. Some of the farmers ke -p as many as thirty cows each, and at che World's Fair in Chicago no less than thirteen jirizes for cheese and butter came to Nicolet and the adjoining count}' of Yatua.ska. All the exhibits were above 96 per cent, and some of them were as high as 98 per cent., which may be con- sidered a close approach to perfection. All this district may, indeed, be well called a land flowing with milk and honey. In the comities of IJagot, Drum- mond and Arthabaska, Nicolet and Lotbiniere alone the last census showed about 52,orreat hotels are far from being rare. The Chateau is, of itself, one of the sights of the Quebec of to-day. yuebec is beyond descri])tion. It is unique among the cities of the continent. Could one forget his past and live only in the thought of his surroundings, he might imagine hini.self dropped down in some corner of Kurojie. To him who has come from the busy cities to the south and west, everything is strange and new. Other jilaces anticipate the future ; Quebec clings fondly to the past. It is well that it should be so, for, in this practical and prosaic age, but few jilaces retain the halo of romance that surrounded them in their early years. Here, despite of the marked commercial progress of the city, the past and present are insejiar- ably interwoven. As in the case of the modern post office and the ancient Chicn d'Or, the structures of later years often derive much of their interest from the history of their sites and their surround- ings. It is ill vain that old buildings give place to new ones, and that the needs of men have brought into use the latest discoveries of an inventive age. None of these give their character tuthe city. Its old-time charm will not de])art. The Quebec of to-day reminds one at every turn of the Ancient Capital as it was in the centuries that are dead and gone, A wonderful old city it is. One does not realize its grandeur until he stands on this or that spot — it matters little where it may be — and looks around him. Kverywhere are monuments of a strange and eventful history. On every hand are the survivals of the seventeenth century. There are buildings and places of which volumes would be needed to tell the his- tory. Hooks upon books have been written, and still the recorded story of Quebec is incoiii])lete. The task of tell- ing all that could be told of the churches and religious institutit)iis would of itself be a prodigious one. N'onder is the Hasi- lica, begun in i6j7 when Louis XIV was king and the star of France shed a bright light over the eastern and western worlds. I i8 has come outh anil and new. I future ; St. It is r, in this ew ])laces iirrouuded re, despite fress of the -e insepar- •ase of the lent Chicii ears often from the surround- , huildinj^s t the needs I the latest None of ecity. Its art. The at every it was in jrone. One does e stands on ittle where nind him. I strange ry hand are h century . ■s of which ell the his- lave heen ■d story of isk of tell- le churches Id of itself is the Basi- s XIV was ,ed a hright .ern worlds. With llie exce])li()n cf that at vSt. Augus- tine, I'Morida, this church is the oldest on the continent. It has treasures within its walls, some of which have heen the gifts of kings. Here are the most costly vestments in .America, aiidhereare paint- ir.gs dating hack far into the centuries, representing llie work of the great schools of luu'ope. Notable among these is that wonderful picture of Our Saviour on tlie Cross, ]>ainted by VanDyck in 1630, and it is only one of a treasury of the masters to be found in the Hasilica, Lavid, the Trsuline Convent and other rejjosi- tories of art in Quebec. How these pictures came from the old world to the new has been mentioned in con- nection with the cathedral at Nicolet. In the (lays of the I'rench Revolution, when neither art nor religion were held sacred and when churches and jjalaces were desjioiled, it was only by the efforts of such men as the Abbe Desjardins that these pictures were rescuen of so much that history has made famous— that has itself been the materialfor history that is im])erishable. The tenacity with which all that is old in Quebec clings to existence was shown when the demolition of the Jesuits' Col- lege was undertaken, in 1871. This queer ramliling pile, the former seat of a college which existed before Old Harvard was founded. resL-iled the despoilers to the last. So well had the builders wrought that yekrs \\ere required to elTace their wor'k, slnd then only by the use of (lr.A/.\ stk/:/:/: (jri:n/-:c I'ive j^enerations of men have seen and honorccl the ICiij^lish fluff on the Citadel, but ill a very great degree the religion, language and customs of ohl I'rance remain. Modern inij)rovements have come here, as elsewhere, hut not to overshadow or diminisli. The past speaks as does the ])iesenl. We may roam through queer, crooked streets, and enter (inaiiit old houses, ill the dark corners of which we almost look for ghosts to come to us from the hy-gone centuries. Of all tlie F'rench settlements in Canada (juehec best retains its ancient form. The i.md of time has swept away the ruins ot I'ort Royal, and the grass grows over wha was once the well-nigh imjireg- nable Louisbourg : but (juebec remains, and will remain, the Niobe of the cities of France in the western world. Here lives luirope in America ; here the jiast and the present meet together ; here the seventeenth and twentieth centuries jostle each other in the narrow streets. /HleiKihiiiial A'miti' Vet, out of these narrow streets, rises the city set on a hill, on the rock founda- tion that such a citj- should have. F'roin the heights are seen glorious panoramas across the mighty river and far dow ii the face of its waters. Not less attractive as a point of view is that grand parade, the Dufferiii Terrace, crowning the cliff for fifteen hundred feet It is the ideal place for a morning walk, but he who has ])oetry in his nature may rather linger there in the long twilight of ;i summer evening. The garish light of day has passed. A gentle breeze conies from the river. The last rays of the setting sun have gilded the hills on the shores beyond, while the line of the distant mountains is blending with the sky. For miles and miles the eye follows the river as it flo-vs in silent grandeur to the sea. Distant sails seem like the white wings of sea birds, while " day in melting ])urple dying," lulls "the" nlind into a dreamy calmness. The shadows deepen. The 21 I lights of Levis hej^iii to oliislcr ; Ihf houses ill tlie I.owt'r Town arc hei'oniinn more jilioslly in the j,'atlieiiii){ darkness ; a sound of soft iiiusic comes from an open casomeiil. We are amid scenes frauj^ht with slraiij^e memories. Here stood the stately Castle of Si. Louis, where, for two hundred years, the l''rench and I'jinlish rulers held tl.eir court. Its jjlory de- parted amid a whirlwind of fire, l-'ar he- low we can trace the outline of a street. It is Clianij)laiii Street. How black it looks ; it reminds us of the darkness of that winter morniii)^ 1(>"K "K". when Richard Mont,i;oinery and his men rushed throu'jh it to their death. I-',vervwherc around us have llic horrors of war heeii felt ; and to-ni^lil nil is so i)eai-eful that the tlioii)4ht of war seems out of harmony with the scene. The hells from the ship- \ni\^ ill the liarhor sound musically throu^di the (|uiel ;iir ; the ])laiiilive notes of the hujjle are home to us from the Citadel ; and the (lash and roar of the eveiiinj; jj;uii tells of nij;ht fallen u])oii the Ancient Capital. I'oets have suiij,' of yuebec, but it is a ])oem of itself which no laiijjuaf^e can ex- press ; its memories liiij '■'■^■t^^^mm wmm^^_^ ^^^ ■k • w 1 n ■ 01' d « ■> /Jirr/CA'/.y 7/;a'A'. i ta • (jui:jij:c Inlcriolonial Routf 92 •^-r Tn of war hi'c-ii ])fiu-c't'iil llial t of hariuony roiii the slii])- (1 imisirally laiiitivc tiolfs us from the roar of the Ik'ii upon the V, hut it is a ;uaj,'i.' can cx- iii the uiind nee of har- e \i'ars lonjj Canada's Famous Shrine iKiloiiial Roiili SCORl'; of mile;, from the city of Ouehee is a mere country vil- la>,'e of a few hiiU'lred inliahitants, wliich is, in one sense, a still more re m ark ah I e ])lace tliau the An- cient Ca])ital itself. 'j3 I'Aery yearthere Hock to this village thou- sands to wlioni Unehec, with all its wealth of historic iissocialions, is hut of passinj^ interest, who come from widely distant l)oints animatecl hy a wonderful faith, and who are seekin^f tlirou).;h that faith the hoon of health which all humanit\' craves. This ])lace is Canada's famous Shrine of Ste. Anne de lieaupre. The name and fame of this little villa)j;e and its wonders have jfone abroad over the face of the earth, It is known on hoth sides of the ocean. It is the ob- jective point of ])ilgrims from all (piarters of the j^lobe. As many as 130,000 have visited it ill the course of a year, luimber- iiijj people t)f all aj^es and of all ranks of life. The whole parish of Ste. Anne has a resident ])opulatioii of considerably less than 2,()<)o, but there are days in suinnier when from 5,g' gililed. 'I'he interior of the church has much that is beautiful to the eye, in the main luulding itself and in the fourteen side clia])els. Ivverything is of the be.st material and workmanshi]), as may be judged from tin- fait th.it the high altar and baldachin, both of elaborately carved white marble, are valued at about #12,000. Hehind this is a jiaintiug by the famous I,e lirun, donated by the .Mar(|uis de Tracey, viceroy of Canada, as far liack as 1666. In the treasury are gifts in solid gold and silver, many of them of great value, and here is the costly vestment given by Oueen .Anne of Austria, mother of Louis XI\'. of h'rance, and worked by her own hands. This royal gift was sent as long ago as 1667, but time and use have not \et marred its beauty. There are many things to be seen, indeed, but it is within the church i>ro])er that the interest must centre. Here are the relics of Ste. .Anne, of which the church has four, ])ortions of bone from her body, and each day a relic is ex])ose(l for veneration. In the main aisle is a ])illar upon which is a crowned statue of .Ste. .Ainie with the Hlessed Virgin in her arms, and on feast days the crowns they wear are of solid gold. In the railed enclosure aromul this ])illar are some of the canes and crutches left by those who have gone awav healed. These memorials are but few, however, comp.iredwilh the great collection of them to be seen in the form of high ])yraniids near the entrance doors ;ind on the stair- wav leading to the choir. There are crutches, canes, shoes with all kinds of thick soles, shoes with sujiporting irons, surgical ;ii)pliances. harnesses for short legs and crooked legs, bottles half fdled with discarded medicines, bandages, ])ads — in short, such an array of all kinds of the belongings of disease and deformity that one might su])])ose an army of cripples had suddenly vanished, leaving 24 ^ •zr-' its L'(|iiii)iiu'nts l)c-liiii(l. All riiiks i>f lilV are ri-prcseiited. There are the nmnh, liotiie-tiiade sticks of the very jxior ami the finely finished work of llu- seiintific iiistruineiit nmker. There are hundreds of them, and yet the i)yraniids are hut the aeinniulation of ii reeent period, for if all had heen preserved that have heen deposited since pilgrims he,t;an to come, another hilihlinj,' would he re(|uired to contain thetn. Knch has heen left hy its rin^^s and many Irilles of little intrinsic value, hut once ])ri/ey their owners. In one of the frames is a revolver, the olTeriiif,', doulitless, of some youth who valued it ahovc all his jxissessioiis. It was the hest material gift ''»' lonld make in token of his j^'ratitudi- to I, a Ilonne Stc. Anne. The ofl'erinv;s thus maile are of every class. The .solid golil and silver in the treasury have already heen referred to, and there are hesides costly watches. /.v •/■///•; ci/iKcn AT ST/:. A.\.\i: ni: uiwrrRi: Iiilei colonial Kntite former owner as a token of the henefits derived from a visit to the shrine, and the story of .-iome of the individual crutches is of deep interest. Huii},^ ujion the wall in another jiart of the church is seen a frame in which are arran<,'ed scores of spectacles, left hy those whose sight has been restored. Of touching interest are several other frames containing a cnrious assortment of all kinds of jewellery and trinkets. There are watches, chains. some richly adorned with jewels, and so the offerings represent all classes, down to the hnmhle habitant who g.-ive from the depths of his heart when he left Ins cheap ring or even his favorite tobaccc pipe. In the vicinity of the chur.'h are a number of objects of interest. There is the fountain, to the waters of which mar- vellous virtues are ascribed, and there is the grotto by the roadside. In the old cha])el are many things which were in the 25 chnroh ..f 1666, <>ii this site, ainl tlii-iv .ire «\iiii)iis ]i,iiiiliiiKs, laili nf wliiili has its history. Thf Si-alii Saiila, on aiiothi-r part of tlif hill, is a copy of ihi- stairs 011 whii-li thf Saviour walki'd on the way to and from jiulKiUfiit. These slairs are intiMidi'd to Ih- asi-i'iicU'd kiiri'lin^;, with a pravt-r at i-aili of tin- IwcntN li^ihl stips, ami slraiij^ers wlio wish to ri-aoh the ujipir floor will IiikI onliiiary stairways by K<''"K around to Iht- rear on the lirst floor. Tlii'ii tluMf is the convent of the I'ranciscau nuns, wherf nicals luav he hiid, and to many visitors a very curious, place is the hurial ground with its. peculiar monnments. On the hill ahove this is the Calvary with the o|)iii air Sta- tions t)f the Cross, each cross having; in it a piece i)f stone from the Holy I, and. Ther»' is, indeed, so much to he seen in the nei)4hl)orhood that the visitor who merely sIojjs to take the return train neXa a very imperfect idea of how much there is that ilemaiids alteuliou. In all .\merica there is no jjlace that in any way reseml)les Sle. Alllie de Heaui)ri'. f /.n/7;a7('A' of cuvKcit AT ST/:. .\.\:\F. Dr. liE.Mi'm: Inliicoloniiil Route 26 The Lower St. Lawrence I'.WINC. Oiuhci-, till- jminu'v is rc- MiiiicI)|)(>sili- sliorc. 1,1'visitst'lf, wliilf a placi.' of imich liistorir iiitiTi'st, is iiol a iioiiil wlifii' tin- loiiiist is wont lo linjjer. It is, however, well worth a visit in connection with a sojourn in Onehec. Millions of ilnllarshavt- Iicimi i-xpi-ndiMl by lliL- Hrilish Covirniiiriil in llii' construction and iiiiprovcnu'iit of the system of forlifu'alions that crown llie lleiKhls, but the chances are that ocean steamers, rather than cannon, will con- tinue to send forth the smoke which casts tile shadows on the broad and beautiful St. Lawrence. I'or the next two hundred miles or so after the dejiarture from Levis, the traveller ]iasses throu),di a jitirely I'rench- Caiiadian country. One after another the typical vilhif^es come into view, with their hm\i, narrow farms, their low-l\.n}^ bnildiii;rs and (juaint cottages, built to be ileli!j;htfully airy in the summer and yet to withstand the keen cold of winter. In every xillaj^e is seen the j)arish church, usually a substantial edifice of stone, while here and there a larj^e cress, on some distant hill, stands out in bold relief against the sky. A ])eacefnl i)eoj)le are these habitants of the Lower St. Law- rence, sim])le in their tastes, primitive in many of their ways, and liavin;,; an abid- iiiff devotion to their mother tonj,aie and inotlier church. In the tenacity with whidi they adhere to their lanj^uaKe, their customs and their faith, they are as conservative as any people on the eartli. Where iniinx.itions come with the ad- vance of the (•ountry from year to year, they ada])t themselves to the new con- ditions, l)ut Chanel' little of themselves. When left to be as the\ have been their wants ari' few and easily supplied. They live trani|uil anil moral lives ; and they are tilled with an aliidin^ love for their laiiniiauL ami a |)rofound veneration for their religion, liy nature linhl-hearte{hts, words ami dicils, they are yet loyal to the British cn)wn and content mnler Itritish rule. The ancient I.iws are secured lo them by solemn comjiact ; anil their lanj^nai.;e and religion are lainlmarks which will never be moved. In i)laces where the lvn,t;lish have established them- selves, some of the habitants understaml the language of the intruders, but none of them ado])t it as their own. The niin).;linj,' of races has a contrary efTect, and the luij^'lish tonj^ue yields to the iMcnch. How thoroujfhly bVeiich some portions of this country remain is shown by the census returns. In the counties of I/Islet and Kamouraska, throu>;h which the Intercolonial runs for more than sixty miles, the po])ulatioii wasj^iven n\.^\,2~~. Ol these only 61 were not I'"rench Cana- dians, and in the matter of relij^ions belief only five were other than Catholics. It is needless to remark that this part of Canada is not disturbed by factions due to rival races or creeds. Kighty miles from Levis is Riviere Onelle, which takes its name from a tragedy in which Madame Honel was the heroine, in the days of the Irotinois.astold ii 'Abbe Casgrain's " La Jongleuse." .i^' It is said that the trai-ksof showsIuk'S and till' iiii])riiUs of himiaii hands and tVol were to lie seen in the solid roek at this ])laee in former years. 'l"he hotel at the wharf is ahonl six miles from the station and will aceonimodale upwards of seventy-live people. A niun))er of summer eott.ij^es have been Itiiill in Ihe viciiiitx-. St. I'asehal station is eighty-nine miles from lAvis, ami a drivi'of live miles from it hrini^s one to Kamonraska, a village lieautifnllv silnati'd on the shore of the St. Lawrence. It is loeaterl.i.i.;es. 'i'wenty miks bi'low St. Paschal this distance between the waters is twenty-six miles, and hence the name of the \illaj;e of Notre Dame du I'ortaj^e. It is a (piiet, retired s])ot, but its line beach and excellent facilities for bathiiif; make it a very eiijovable resort for the families who spend their summers there. Riviere du Loup The apjiearaiu'e of Riviere' dn I,ou]), when one arrives there by train, is suggestive of a railway centri-, but the ]»laee is a summer resort as well, ami one of lon,n estal)lished re])Ulalion. lieyoud the euvironnu'iit of ilu' station is iMaser- ville, so called from the I'raser family, in whom the seij^niorial rii^dils wert' vested. Beyond this a^ain is the St. I.awri'uce, with all its s])lendid possibilities for balh- ini.;, boating, fish inq and shootiuv;, in the ]>ro]ier seasons. Many of the men ])ro- minent in Canadia.i public life have s|)ent ]iorlions of tluir siunniers lu^ri', ami it has also been the holidav resort for .son U' of the j;()vi'rnors-j.;eneral. .Vjiart from its own attractions, it is a com enieut centre from whii'li oiu' ni.iv j^o to various ])oints I'ither on the river or into the forests where lish and name abound. W'l !■ a visitor n mains in Riviere du I,ou|), how- ever, then- is nmch to interi'st him. The scenery is charmini;, the walks and drives are varied, the bathin).(fai'ilities excellent, while the shootin.!L; and lishinj; in the im- mediati' vii'iuily alTord am])le ricri'ation. iMue views m.iy l)i' had from niaiiv ]ioints. Sitnati'd near till' con Ihu'uce of tlu' Rivieri' du I. oup and the St. I.awrenci', and beinj; on the slnue of the lattt'r, the ])laci' abounds in ])ictures(|ue sceni'i v of all kinds, Near the railw.iv, tlu' smaller river has a descent of more th;m 200 feet by a succission of falls, which make their way throu.!.;h a .uori^e over which hiyh and pri'cipitous rocks stand sentinel. In the vicinity, " hills jiee]) o'er hills," clothed all in the varying hnis of nii'i'u, while towards the St. I.awri'Uce the ojieu country, sprjnkleil with wt'll linished houses, makes a pleasiut; contrast to llu' rn.i.;,t;ed as]K'ct of the laml which lies in tln' rear. rjion the shore a i.;lorious ])r. Nearer the shore are smaller craft of all sizes ami shapes- niauiu'il by fishers, traders, and .seekers after pleasure. If one loii.ijs to join them, a boat is at 2S li.iiid anil SDoii is (laiu'iiif^ on llii' ni'tilli" l)ill(>\vs, whili' till.' M'a hinis .-kini \\\v watiTs ill tlii'ir oiivliiij; lli);lils, ami tlu' si)K'inn-i'\(.'il lonp-iiiarili lisi's lU'ar at hand, \anislu-s and risi-s a.!j;aiii a> if si'iit l)v N'i'])lniK' to diMiiand tlu' slraiincr's cTrand. U was rioiii llu'si' I'ri'alnti's, say sdiiii-, that thi' riviT (K'livcd its naini-, rathiT than I'to'ii thi' ill-visaj^i'd wolf of the forest. The waters alioiind in all kind of erea- tnres, ,nreat and small. The chief of lliese is the white whale, the Helnija Hoiealis, whieli is nsnally, hut erroneoiisly, teiined the while ])or])oise. Its leiij.;tli is from foiirtetn to twenty-two fei't, and eaeh carcass yields .soinethini; over a hundred (gallons of oil. 'I'lie halihiit ami stiif).;eoii come next in order of size, after them the salmon, and then all the small lish comiiioii to this latitude. The heaches aloiij; this shore olTer ex- cellent facilities for bathing', and the water is of an a,>.;reeal)le tein])eratnre. .\s for the ti-mperatiire of the air, it may he said of all the i.ouer St. Lawrence that the snmiiU'r climate isi'ver\ thiiii; a tourist coiiM desire. Tlu' hree/e is of itself a most invi^oratini^ Ionic. Teniiscoiiata I.ake, reached from Riviere (In I,onp by ,i run of fifty miles over the Teniiscoiiata railway, is a line plaie for takiliiLj tiiladi and lake trout hy trollinij during; June and July. This lake is about twent\ -eij;ht miles loii),', varyinj^ from a mile and a half to three miles in width. (lood brook trout lishiiiff is also to be found aloni^ this line of railway. Across the Broad River Sli'aniers callint; at Rivieri' dn I.oiii) furnish o])])ortiinitii's for visitinj,' the notable watering; pl.ices on the northern shore. Mi'iition nia\ be made of Mnrray Hay and Tadoiisai', but by far the most wonderful si.nlit for the tourist is the f.iiiu'd Saj;iienay KiviT. It is one of the most rcmark.ible of nature's works in a TAi'ors.ir IlllfllitltlllUll Ix'lllllf 29 continent where natural wonders abound. Hayard Taylor has described it as "a natural chasm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for sixty miles through the heart of a mountain wilderness." This terse description is a word picture, but he who would Rrasp the details of that picture must .see the Sa}j;iienay for himself. Its waters, black and silent, have vast dejjths. The river is said to be deeper, by 600 feet, than the mighty St. Lawrence into which it empties. There are peojile of the country who believe its depths cannot be fathomed, and they tell of thousands of feet of line which have been paid out in the vain attempt to find bottom in certain places. I,et one imajfine such a river flowing between walls of rock, which tower in places to a height of nigh 2,o«x) feet, and he will realize the significance of such names as Ca])e Trinity, Cajie Eternity and Eternity Hay. In the majesty and glcjom of such surroundings, the reflective mind must ever feel the most profound reverence anil awe. At the mouth o." the Saguenay is Tadousac, a wonderful old settlement, with enough eventful histor\' of its own to sup])ly material for a volume, were the records but available. It is undoubtedly the oldest Euro])ean settlement in Canada, and perhaps in .-Vnierica. Hefore Champlain began to build Quebec, it existed. Nay, before Jacques Cartier left St. Malo to find out Canada, Tadousac was the resort of the Basque fishermen, whose fathers had lesorted thither before them. One writer, \V. H. H. Murray, has evolved the theory that not only were the Basc|ues here before Columbus was born, but that their ancestors, the sea- roving Iberians, visited this harbor even before Christ was .sent to man or Rome was founded. So it is with ])rofound reverence that one looks upon this spot, which is historically older than the cou'itry of which it is a part. It was the ancient metropolis of Canada, the chief trading station before one of the cities of to-day had sprung into existence. Here was erected the first stone house, and here, too, was the first church. The ])resent structure, a modern affair dating back a little more than 150 years, is built upon the site of the first ])lace of worshij), and it is said that the .-\ngelus is rung out to-day with the bell by which it was souiuled more than three hundred years ago. It is of this bell that a strange story is told— a story not made mythical by its anti{|nily, but coming so near our own times as to be told by those now living who heard it from those who were living then. It has ai)peared in various forms, but so far as is known not in such a way as to be accessilile to the ordinary traveller. Eor this reason, and because it is worthy of i)reservation, an outline is given here. In all that pertains to the history of Canada from the advent of Cartier until the cession to England, religion is every- where interwoven. The courage, zeal and self-devotion of the Jesuit missionaries will be remembered while the world endures. They never wearied or looked back, and long after the confiscation of their property and the sujipression of their order they continued their labors . among the savages, .\mong the last of the Jesuit missionaries in Canada was Pere Cotjuart, whose gra»e is in Chicou- timi, nearly a hundred miles u]) the Saguenay. With him in his labor of l)reaching the Gospel was I'cre Jean Rajitiste Labrosse, a good— nay, from all that is told, a .saintly nuin, who.se tomb is at Tadousac. Eor nearly thirty years the gentle I'ere Labro.sse wrought to bring the Indians to a knowledge of the Cross, anil in 17S2 he had reached the allotted age of three score and ten, yet, as with Moses, "his eye was not dim nor his natural force abated." On the loth of .\])ril in that year he spent the evening with his friends at Tadousac, but at nine o'clock he arose from their midst, with a look of strange peace on his face, and bade all farewell until eternity. He would die at midnight, he said, and when his spirit left the flesh the church bell would toll to tell his peojjle that he was 30 ere, tou, was •lit slrucUiri.', a little more )ii the site of and it is said t to-diiy with juiided more (). aiige story is lllical by its ear our own e HOW living o were living arious forms. n sticli a way he ordinary and because an outline is le history of Cartier until i(ion is every- rage, zeal and missionaries e the world ed or looked )nfiscation of ppression of their labors , g the last of Canada was is in Chicou- liles uj) the liis labor of I'ere Jean ay, from all lose tomb is lirty years ghtto bring f the Cross, the allotted et, as with im nor his the loth of the evening but at nine idst, with a s face, and rnity. He 1, and when church bell that he was I jrone from among them. He departed. At midnight the bell tolled, the people hastened to the church, and there before the altar, as if in a peaceful sleep, Tere Labrosse lay dead. At the same hour that night, in every .settlement where the departed missionary had jireached, from the head waters of the Saguenay to the I?aie de Chaleur, the bells of the churches, tolled by invisible hands, bore to his con- verts the tidings of his entering into rest. When morning came a dense darkness overhung the Saguenay. On the St. Lawrence a fearful storm was r;;ging, and the huge masses of drifting ice threatened destruction to any craft, even within the well sheltered harbor. Yet I'cre Labrosse had directeil that a boat be sent to He aux <2oudres, .sixty miles distant, that Pcre Com])ain might come to Tadousac and inter his remains with the forms of the -church. I"our men, firm of faith, launched a canoe, and as it advanced the ice floes parted, leaving smooth water for its jias.sage. So it was until He aux Coudres was reachetl, and there, on the shore, stood Pere Compaiii, who told them of their errand before they could announce it. The bell of his church had tolled at midnight, a voice had sjwken, telling of the death of Fere Labrosse and of the mission of the four men who would come to the island. Such is the story of the good Jean Baptiste Labrosse and the bell which rings to-day in the little <-liurch which stands near the shore in the harbor of Tadousac. The trip between Riviere du Loup and the Saguenay is one to the same extent. For a distance of several hun- dred miles it is intersected by rivers easily navigable for small boats or canoes. By the.se natural highways one iiia\' jMirsue his journey far into the interior, make a short i)ortage from the head- waters of one to those of another and descend the latter to the lines of railway in New Hrunswick. A glance at the map will show what ainjile o])])<)rtunities there are for this kind of recreation. Leaving the railway and ascending one river, com- ing down another and up another, spend- ing days among the lakes, fishing, shoot- ing, enjoying life to the utmost, one is as much in the wilderness as if thousands of miles away. Yet all this time he kiir>ws that, if necessary, a few hours will bring him to the railway, the mail and the telegrajih — to coinmunicate with the busy world. He may leave the railway on the shores of the St. Lawrence and make a canoe voyage to the Baie 7;. I ( ■// .1 y i .1 ( (uw.i . (_>f 1:11 i-A ■ Inti'iCiitiiHt'iil A'otft' leased for the season. In this way some of them derive an income sufficient to supjxirt tliem in the lonely winter, when the slraiifjer has j.jone, .iiid the natives sit aloii}j;silacid waters invite the iioatman ; and lie.'inty everywhere su.iimons the idler from his resting-place to drive or ramble in its midst. Had il not been for the fleet that lay at anchor beyond the island t)n that mid- summer day in 1759, Hie might have been ;i fortified town anil it harbor a naval station. Such was one of the jnojects of I'rance, and there would have been a safe and convenient rendezvous for the fleets in these waters, for Hie is accessible al 35 seasons when the ii-e bars the p issajre to Qiielicc. It was here, in the l)itterl.v cohl winter weather of 1862, that Kngl.nid landed men and munitions of war for the defence of Canada. It does not seem, however, that Hie should have anything to do with war. Ivvervthing is suggestive of pleasure and peace. Strangers are not numerous, but lovers of beauty and seek- ers after rest have located summer resi- dences in the village, and year by year t(dd it to Jaccjues Cartier, and it has u])- l>eared in a great variety of forms ever since. Hrielly stated, the tradition is that a l)and of Micmacs, consisting of about two hmnlred men, women and children, heard of the a])])r()ach of a large i)arty of hostile Iro(i\iois, .and lied for concealment to the large cave which is to be seen on this island. The Iroquois discovered the place of retreat, and finding themselves unable to dislodge their hidden foes by '•L'fsi.irr .\r massal k'/:r it/c hilei colonial Kouli enjoy the cooling breezes. I'ishing is in abundance ; and if there were no fish, the .streams winding their way among the hills, through all kinds of jiicturesque dells, would well repay full many a toil- some tramp. One of the islands near at hand is known as I,' Islet au Massacre, and associ- ated with it is a tragic story of Indian war. The tale is an old one. Donnacona ordinary means, resorted to a thoroughly savage ex])e(lient. Heaping dry wood in and around the mouth of the cave, they advanced behind shields of boughs, carry- ing torches of bark, and ignited the ])ile. The Micmacs were forced to leaji through the flames, and as fast as they apjieared were shuightered. All who were in tlu cave were killed, and their boiies la\ bleaching on the island for many a year 36 and it has u]>- of forms ever Militioii is thill sliiij; of about and cliildreii, larjre ])arty of ir coiucaliiielit i to lie seen on discovered the nj^ themselves idden foes hv ir^. ms^mf^ eifolonia! A'ou/r a thoroughly dry wood in he cave, they "intrhs, carrv- lited the jiile. lea]) throuf^h hey ap])eare(i were in the 'ir bones la\ many a j-eav thereafter. They were swiftly and ter- ribly avcnj^'ed. Mr. Tache, in his "Trois Le^eiides f the rocks, shriek- ing at times as with the .agony of souls in ])ain. Ilattee Ray is another delightful s])ot, not far from liic. The scenery, lluiugh not so im])ressive .-is that of the latter I)lace, is very attractive. One of the features is a natural terrace, ami the facilities for all kinds of exercise and r.>creation are ahund.int. A number of Iviigli.sh f.imilies reside at this ])lace, and it has many admiring visitors during the summer season. R^ntouski and (he Hermit Many jieople know of Rimouski chiefly as a place where the ocean steamers re- ceive and land mails and jia.ssengers on the voyage to and from Kngland in the summer. Anxious todcpart or get home, they see little of the place beyond noting that it is a thriving town, and that the ])ier rumiing out to deep water is of a most surprising length. It extends for nearl\' a mile, and is a most agreeable promenade in summer daj's, when a con- stant cool breeze i.s borne over the water. The village of St. (iermain de Rimouski, which is its full title, is the shiretown of the coimty and the seat of the bishop of the diocese. The catliedral, bishop's palace, seminary, convents and other buildings devoted to religious uses, are imposing structures of stone, erected at a large cost. The clergy are seen at every turn, and the I'rench langu.ige is heard in everv house. Save at tlij hotels and some jiublic oflices, the thousands of English who have passed through Rimouski have done very little to leave the sound of their tongue or the impress of their journey. The Rimouski River is the first iniport- ;mt salmon river below Quebec, and it is under lease. Strangers who are sports- men and gentlemen have, however, often been permitted to fish in its waters, which extend to a lake close to the boundary of New Brunswick, and from which only a short ])ortage is necessary to reach the rivers Ouatawamkedgwick (commonly known as the Tomkedgwick) and the Restigouche. by means of which a canoe can reach the Baie de Chalenr. The salmon <>f the Rimouski are not of the largest size, avi'raging less than twenty ])()iuiils, but there are plenty of them, as well as an abimdance of trout. The latter fish are easily to be had by those who go after them, for there are aboitt fifty lakes, large and small, within the county. At Seven Lakes, 25 miles from the village, there have been some re- markable catches of trout. .\s for shoot- 37 iiiX, the woods are full of all kinds of fjanie. The silualii)ii of Riiiionski is such as to offer attractions to families who seek a quiet suiuiuer with the eujoyinents of the se:i side. There are excellent facilities for salt-water fisliin>;, hoaliui; and hath- inj;, the shore heiiijj protectetl from rouf^hness of water hy the island of St. Harnabe, which lies a short distance off. This island, which h:\^ borne its name since early in the seventeenth century, is about two miles lon^, contains a small lake, is well woovinces. Little Metis station, 90 miles from Riviere du Lou]), is the stopping place from which to reach the well known watering place of Little Metis, situateil on the shore about six miles from the railway. It is a resort tluit has been greatly develo])ed of recent years, and its popularity is increasing each season. There are several large hotels, and a num- ber of wealthy Canadians have made it their summer home. For ])eoi)le of moderate means who do not wish to in- vest in property and build for themselvi- . 38 anil iiia(k- .1 I s'lliUuk' for Tliis vow hi' life of deep i- year, until ih' iiKi-, All Ml, I'veu Uk- fei'il onl of broken, and ss by. count- ) his reunion through lift rived, l-orty 1 lenj^th one found lyinj- luible abode, last. His re- le old church V his name is lan. il-i is I'ather Lt'f^raph and )n with ocean is a charniinj^ ir miles above ' Sac re C(i.'ur, 111 and well Ible ojiportinii- ing. ouski the St. and the road e Aletapedia n miles from le inijiortauce, e well-known 1, built at .1 jr used for a per and lower ) miles from oppinjf place well known letis, situated liles from the hat has been vears, and its each season. ■Is, and a nuni- have made it or peojile 1 'f it wish to iii- 'or Iheniselve; . Ibis is a ])art of the lountrv wliire houses aree.isily to lie liad (nv the wholi'or .1 \y,ivi of the season, 'i'he farmers are viry ;ic- comniiiilatiuj.; in this respect, ami in some instances they will no so far as to give u]) their own homes for the summer, shifting for lluuisi'lves as best they can, while strangers occupy their homesteads. Thus, at a reasonable rent, a party may live (piite at their ease, having a house fur- nished with ,ili the essentials for house- keeping, and may either do their own cooking or take their meals at an hniil, as in.i\- suit tln'ir fancy. Little Metis is situated on the shore of the St Lawrence, at a point where the estuary bi'gins to wi<'.en out so that the o])piisite shore is .a faint line in the dis- tance and miu-h of the hori/on is as level as upon the ocean. This gives the jilace more of the air of a se;i-side re.sort than many less favored watering ])laces, and the salt waves rolling in upon the sandy beach I'onfirm the im])ressiou. The beach is about four miles long, h ml, smooth, and safe for bathers. On some ]),nts of it the surf beats with a sullen roar ; yet numerous coves, sheltered from the swell, afford "very security, as well as .absolute ])rivacy, to the bather. Hoats, of all sizes, from a skiiT to a schooner, are .available to the visitor, and if one desires to run across to the other shore he will fnid safe and swift vessels crossing e\ery day. If a parly desire to h.-ive a good time .and feel free and indei)endent, they can charter a small schooner for a few- dollars a day, secure a good s.iiling master, lay in a su])ply f)f jjrovisions and go where they jilease. The St. Lawrence is between thirty and forty miles wide in this part, so there is l)lenty of room for e.xcursionists at all times. The r.rand and Little Metis rivers .are favorite haunts of the salmon, and trout are found wherever there is a lake or brook. The best ])laces to secure the latter fisli are at Metis Lakes, the nearest of which is about three miles from the . centre of the village. I'"urtlier back is a chain of lakes, all containing ])lenty of l.irge trout, and all couiparalivelv esa\ of access. The country in the rear of Metis is a resort for herds of caribou. Cieese, duck and sea-fowl are found all along the shore, while i)artriilge are met with in every part of the woods. The scenery is varied and attractive. One m.ay drive for miles .along the shore and enjoy the i>auorama .lud sea breeze until weary. Inland are beautiful vales and nooks and brooks and charming bits of landscape. .Ml the farmers have wag- gons to hire, and drives may be had at a small expense. One of these is to the falls, seven miles away. Here a heavy body of water i)ours over the rocks with a grandeur which must be seen to beai)]>re- ciated. liolh Crand and Little Metis rivers have waterfalls, situated .amid most enchanting scenes of the forest, lirand ISIetis falls are most easily reached from the railway by driving from St. Oitave station, from which the\- are about three miles distant. When one is .sojourning at Little Metis, however, the falls may be includeil in a carriage drive that has many other attractions. Oraiid Metis river and the seigniori.d rights were purchased by Lord Mount- Stephen, a number of years ago. .\ large sum was paid for the jiroperty, and fully four times as much was .ifterwards ex- pended in the improvement of it. A ])art of the improvement was the building of what is nioilestly termed a fishing lodge. It cost about 545. '"w mid is the finest house of its kind in Canada . It is located on a height overlooking the St. Law- rence, cUjse to the shore at Cirand Metis. The building is designe(l with every regard for comfort and convenience, and a feature of the interior is the finish of polished woods brought from the P.icific coast. The Crr.'ind Metis falls are approached by a road which winds along the bank of the river, high above the water, where the stream makes its way through a deep gorge. The ascent of the road is very steep in places, but even were one to make the journey on foot the view of the 39 lalN anil Ihfir Mirroutidiiins woiilil wi-ll reward liim fur his fxiTliun. 'I'lif lu'i^'lit (if tlu' fall is alioiit otii' liiiiiilruil fi'i't, ami the si^(ht i)f the rivir iHUiriiiK over the roiks into tlu' n<>r),'i' lu'lnw is diic not to be forj^olleii. I'nrllu-r alon^ the shore is the Matane, a small rivi'r, Iml with an aliiimlatice ol r \r.i.s (>/■ (.A'.i.x/) Mi-yris salmon and trout. It was by this river, so loni; aff() as the time of Cham])lain, that the Indians of the IJaie de Chaleur reaclu'd the St. Lawrence, by way of the Restijjouche and Metapedia rivers, mak- inj,' a portajje fnnii Metapedia I{oil(liliil lon;.;ues ; lull the IriU' i)idiuiil- ciatioii of many of Iheiii is lo^t, .iiid as the Indians had no written laiiKiiajie tluie is no rule as to how they should ke spelk'd. Some of tlielll are kelieved to have had iioetical iiiiMiiiii;.iS, kill there is a ),'ood deal more faiu'\- tliaii fact in iii.iny of the iiiter|)retatiolis. It is jlisl as well, however, lo altai'll .some ]ioetr\ to them, for thus lliey are in harmony with the surroimdiiijLis. 'I'hc Met.qiedia N'alley should ke the poel' . |>aradi>e. Metapedia Lake and Valley Heyond Sayakec lies I.ake Melajiedia, It is the noklesl sheil of inland water seen alonn the idille. .Ml lakes have a lieaiily which a])l)eals lo the iinaniiiali ve mind, kill tliis, eiishriniMl anion,!; the mountains niiislimpresslhe most prosaic nature, .\kont sixteen miles in len j,4k, and stretching out in jiarls to Ike wiillk of live miles, its ani])learea);i\ es it a dijfiiity witk wkicli lo wear its keantv. Hmkosoined on its traii(|uil waters lie isles rich in venliire. anion.i; which the ealioe may iiUiU' amid scenes that wake the artist's soul to eestacy. The shores are a fittiiiii frame to so fair a i)icture. Here, loo, will the s])ortsman never ply his craft in vain. These clear waters are ihe lionwof the >almon, and kiii,iis ainoiij,' the fishes await the angler's pleasure. Tlie outlet of Ike lake is the famed MelaiKMlia river. It is sometimes sjielled with a final "c,"and .some use an " a " instead of the first "e." It is a mat- ter of ta.ste, kut it is kij;lily jirokakle no one of ike tliree is like tlie true Indian word. Cascajiediae, for instance, is alleged to ke a corruption of I\ij.;icapi);i;ic, lkoU};li another aulhoritv says it is from Kokekak, a wide ])adille, and prokakly the ori;;inal of .Metapedia is something even Worse. It is well not to ke too particul.ir, for this corruption of the native dialed is (generally an improve- ment, so far .IS relates to the ease of |ironmiciatioii ky the loiiKUes of wliite men. Tlie iiaiiie is commonly said to deiioti' Musii'.il Waters, and the title would ke well deserved, kut according lo Ike laic Dr. Kaiid, an aiilliority, Ike real word is iSIadaheneak, " roii);lily fiowiiiK." ir.s. i/'sc .1/,. .\//:j:i/-/:/i/.i /:/!/■/,■ Iiittii olitniat Kotile wkicli is literally correct. TliroiiKk Ike j^'iei'ii valley it winds in (graceful curves, sinj.;in.i,' Ike iiuisic of Ike waters as it runs. In tliirty miles of its course it lias 222 ra])ids, .ureal and small, now swift and dee]), now ,u;entlv ri])])liii,!; over lieds of skininj,' .irravel and jrokleii sand. Here anil Ikere are the dee])er jiools in wlii^'i lurk salmon of astouiidinj.^ size, for this is one of the salmon stre.ims of which every fisherman has heank I'or mile after mile the traveller watches the course of the river, so slraiij,rely ])enl in ky the mountains on eillier hand, risiiifj; in every 41 ■t shapi; which iiioiiiilaiiis can assume. Snmc an.' ahnosl ])i.'i"f<.'cl cones ; others rise swil'lly into ])recipices ; and others have such jfentleslojies that one feels that he woiihl hke to stroll leisurely ujnvard to tlie Mininiit, hut the lu'ii;lil, as a rule, is from six huiulred to eight huiv'red feet. In some places in the Meta])edia the river, the hij.;li\va/, and the railway crowd each other for a ])assaji;e, so narrow- is the valley. .\11 kinds of foliajre, and all shades of Nature's colors are u])on the hillsides : and in the autumn, when the ,!.;rand tr.iiisforination of hues takes jilace, the effect is ma,t,niificent heyond descri])- tioii . Crrassy hanks make easy the ])ath of the an.icler, as the lordly fish dart from the ])ools to seize his hook. Heauty is everywhere ; here all the charms of retirement can he found in a Northern paradise. Switzerland lives in miniature amid the mountains, while ICntjlaud and Scotland are around the lakes, streams and s])rin;;y heather. Gun and Rod in the A\etapedia Some moose are still to he traced in the vicinity of the Metajjcdia valley, i)ut if one seeks for them he will do l)etter hy penetratiuii the wilds of the (laspe reninsula or on the Resli.t(ouche. Cari- Ixm, however, are still to he found in abundance in all ])arts of the country, and the tra])i)er will he at no loss to find the haunts of the heaver and many other fin--I)earinfr animals. I'artrid.tjj. are to be had everywhere, close to the line of rail- way, and very often can he shot without leavinj,' the track. The Metajjedia owes its chief fame to the sahuon fishint;, which is found every- where for at least forty miles alon<,f the course of the stream, to say nothins.; of the other rivers by which it is joined. One of these is the Causapscal, and some rare fishinj.^ is enjoyed at the forks, wliere the Princess Louise once landed a forty-])ound salmon. Inirther up, the Causapscal is rather rough along its banks, and merits its name, which means, in the lyiglish tongue, the Rocky River. The best fishing in this vicinity is from tlic middle of June t > the middle of July. Trout may be caught with ease all through the season, not only in the riv- ers, but at such ])laces as .Vnupii au.oo<), uol including such incidentals as servants' wages, rail- way fares and exjjress charges. In the following season 1,480 salmon were killed, but the ex])enses that year were over #5-1, o(H). Taking all the fishing rivers of this part of Ouebec and of the north shore of New Hrunswick, the amoiml ex])ended hy clubs and individ- ual lessees, season after seas'in, is some- thing enormous. It is a rule of the Restigouche vSalmon 4 1 » 4» iiiily is from ildk- uf July. Lh case all ly in the riv- Aiiuiui and ia Iroiil are pass for sal- ere forty and seven jiouiid .on, as they ;han (a ])lace mie), at ISIc- Islreani, will I fishiii-. A le out of an itil noon the 50 ])onnds of )ur pounds in ; as high as tapedia river etapedia sta- hand is the ■Salmon Cluh, men to whom irryinji out of imposed to a lents of New the United pay well for l)art of the in of the ex- wed that in ed for every other season This was earce, for in number se- vera!Li,ed 22'. use the clnh (u includint; ■;' wajj;es, niil- rijes. In the dmou were it year were 1 the lishiiiK lee and of the inswick, the and individ- is'in. is some- Cluh thai IK) memlier or hii^ .Ljuest shall kill more than eiifht salmon in oiu- day's li^hinj; on waters conlrolled hy the eluh. 'I'iie line has to ln' drawn somewhere, ,uid eiiLjhl is I'oU'-ideri'il a ri'asnnahle uuniher. This ])art of the Mt'tapedia is a ])hu'e of ^ini^ular heaulx', and the eharm of the s'.'iiiery of mountain, valiev and winding; river, a])peals to all that is artistic in the sou! of the traveller. I'roni .AIeta])edia st.ilion the Atlantic and Lake Sup^-rior r,iilw,iy .^oes down iuln the (iispe Peninsula a distance of loi) miles to N(.'w Carlisle, and it is intended to no as far as (Vaspe Hasiu. This is one of the wax s hy which this land of the fisher may lie visited, the traveller connectin.!:; with the sltamer at s ime of the ])i)iuls at which it calls oti its rciLjular trip between Dalhoiisie and (Vaspe Basin. The other way is to take the steamer direct from Dalhoiisie. In comiection with the latter mute a more extended reference will 1)e made to the IK-uinsula and its atlrai'tioiis I'or the tourist. I,eaviii!4 Metapedia, the Resti.s^ouche river is seen, and he who looks u])on it sees one of the most famous of the s^ieat salmon streams. The Keslij^imche is I'rossed bv the Intercolonial Railway on a most substantial bridj,a', over one thous- and t'eel in len.t;tli. .\ lew miles beyond this the railway ])asses ihrouj^di its only overhead tunnel, at Morri:-si'y Rock, on the side of l'ros])ect Mountain. When one is at Cani])l>ellton. a trip to the top of this rock will be well repaid by the mag- nificent view which may be had of the beautiful country for miles around. .\t the Head of the Tide a bright ]>iclure mei'ts the eye. The river is thickly (lotted with low-lying islands, rich with meailow lands, their lines of green I'onlrasting finely with the siber surface of till' river. In truth this ])art of the road is a succession of bright pic- tures — a ]),inoraina. wherein are shown some of Xaturi-'s f.iirest scenes. /\ Tin: Mi:r.\i'i:iuA wm.i.ev hilfiiiilonial Raul,' iiche Salmon -13 % In Northern New Brunswick |a MP in-; LI. TON, on the south side of the boiindarv river R e s t i - j^ouche, is the first place i II N e \s' Hrmiswick seen by the traveller from Ouehec. It is a town of some 4,000 peo])le and is ra]5i(lly j;ro\\in.ij. It is a very con- venient centre of o])eralioiis for the fisherman and hunter of .tcame, and thouifh it has not catered to tourist travel by the erectii '" a sunnner resort hotel, it is really a.. tractive jilace in itself and its surronndin^rs. Thus it has jrreat possibilities. It is conveniently situated, because it is a central point on the line of the Intercolonial, neither too far south for the ])eoi)le who are above nor too far north for those who are below. It is 466 miles from ^lontreal, 303 miles from Quebec, 371 from Halifax, and 274 from St. John, and it lies amidst one of the finest rej^ions for s])ort on the continent. The Resti}j;ouche and Metajiedia, with their tributaries, afford only a part of the splendid fishinjr to be had, while the land to the west and north contains all manner of }j;ame to en- tice the sportsman to its forests. Resides, Cam])belllon is on the estuary of the Resli^'ouche emptying,' in the famous Haie de Chaleur, which is of itself worth cominjj from afar to sail u])on ; and it is convenient as a cool, but not cold, smnmer resort, with every facility for salt-water bathiiiff, .salt-water fishinjj; and a jfood time {generally. The situation is beautiful, because Cam])bellton lies at a point on a broad and beautiful river which unites with the waters of a bav that has no rival in Canada. Beautiful. becau.se the mountains rise near ;ind far, their cones ]5ointin,t; heavenward with a jj;randeur not to be described, while the varyin},^ shades are blended with a harmony which all may admire, but which can be ap])reciale(l only by the artist. There is fine scenery in whatever direction one may j^o in this vicinity, and the principal roads are easy for either carriage or bicycle. ISIention ha.s already been made of the view from the to]) of Morrissey Rock, but a still broader and grander outlook may be had by climbing the Sugar Loaf, a mountain some 950 feet high, close to the town. The view embraces mountain, valley, river and sea for many miles and is well worth the somewhat stee]) climb. On the north side of the river, op])osite the town, is Cross Point, the old Oigin- agich, or Coiled Snake Point, of the Micmacs, where Woodanki, or Indian Town, dates its beginning far back among the centuries. There is now an Indian reserve of S40 acres, inh.ibited by 120 families, with a ])opulation of about 500 natives. They have a neat village, a school taught by a native teacher and are a very orderly peo])le. The mission is in charge of the Capuchin l'"athers, who have had a monastery here since 1S94. There had been a mission here, however, for more than two centuries before they took charge, the beginning of the work dating back to the early days of the Recollets in Canada. Both boating and bathing may be en- joyed to any desired extent in the waters around Campbellton, and the fame of the Restigouche salmon and trout sj)eaks as to the fishing It was a Restigouche sal- mon that ti])i)ed the scale at fifty-four 45 • is ]) minis, iiiid inniil)(.rs liavc lii'c-n caiiL;)!! whii'h wtTL' of till' ri'S])c'i'tal)k' \vfii;lu of forty poiiinls fai-li. Salmon ll^liiiiii lie- j;iiis aliout llu- iniddlL' of May, ami all llu- rivers ahoiiml with lliese ,t;re'at ami ;;lori- oiis llsli. AftL'r the river is clear, in the early part of M.iy, ])leiity of live and seven ]ii>iiml trout can he cail.^ht in the tide with halt. .iranls the lakes in the immediate vicinitx at Cam]ilielllon, the man who seeks for lidul will never he disap]iointed. 'I'lu- f.ivorile resorts are Parker I.ake and In ner I'aiker I.ake, the former of which has .a wide fame, ll is not a lari^e hoih of water, as lakes yo in this country, hiil in its leniith of li.ilfamile or so every si|nari- yard wduld a])])ear to contain a I'rom the middle of May milil July they Iront wti^him; from half a ])onnd to two will take either lly or hait, hut for .;;ood iMHinds. It is of no a\ail, however, to fly-lisliini;' take the month of lulw Here uo there with fanc\- tackle and a hook .l/()A'A7.V.S7-. )■ k'lH'A'. .NV-.M A' ( '. M//'/.7-.7./. /( ).\'. \./l. Intt'i it'l'iiiutl A'lHtfi are some of the favorite liannts : I'',scn- of assorted Hies, for save at occasional iiiiuac, 9 miles distant ; Little No\ivelle, times in the month of June the fish will 22; I.ittle Cascapedia, ahout 4,s or 50 hy not he templed to rise to the surface, steamer; I'arker I.ake, ;, ; Head of Tide, The favorite hait is the aj,dle j,;rassho])- 5 ; and Mission I.ake, 3 miles from Cross ])er, and it never fails to do its work. I'oinl, on the o])])()site side of the river. One of the many instances of successful ("yuides are easily obtained an ever}' to contain a ]K)iin- into it have been tlieir favorite haunts since a "time wheieof the nieniorv of man runneth not lo the contrarv." A few \ears ayo a man killed fourti'i'U them home. e\en ihoui^h the ro.id to Camiilii-lhon was all down hill. l'ark(.-r Lake is siluaU'd on the hai-k of Sn.i^ar I, oaf Mountain, and the ascent to it is a irille toilsome, hut an hour or two around it will rejjay even a climli on foot. Cood caniijin.ii ground is found hlack duck at one shot, on the Little here, as indeed is almost invariably the Muni river. case with the lakes in this i)arl of Ameri- .\s a matter of course, i)artri.\.\h\ II or any of the hotet-kee])ers, can .^ive him all 11k> information he desires as to the tishini; in .inv iiart of this coun- try. In the autumn and s])rim; the wild .ueese hover around the short's of the Resliirouclie in immense Hocks, while all I niri iifh'Htal /\'on/t' sides of the '"•'•er. They occasioiuilly show themselves around the barnyards of farmers in the smaller settlements. Ivven the boys .tjo huntin,;.; bi.ic .i^ame in this ])art of the country, and a fine caribou was shot li\' the twelve-\ear-old son of Mr, Harharie, the station ai^ent, a short the manv species of /■ h'KST/COriJII-: S.M.MO.X I iitt'i colonial Kotttt' Patapediac, for instance, is 37 miles by the river, but only 21 miles in a direct line. It is but six and a half miles from Up.salquitch to Brandy lirook by land, but it is not less than thirteen miles by the river. Kven more remarkable is the bend at Cross Point, a few miles further lip, where a walk of a few hundred feet across a stri]) of land will save a journey of about a mile by water. Yet the river is not really crooked ; it sim])ly has common sight on any part of the Resli- gouche. Ivven at the railway bridge as many as a hundred salmon have l)een seen swimming slowly around at one lime, and it is probable that more or less of them could be seen almost any day in the season were the train to stoj) so thai the passengers could have a look at the water. It is no idle boast to say that tin- Resligouche is the finest sahnou river in the world. abrujit bends, with long stretches of .Some may wonder at the Indians will 48 SE thuiii. The tij^croiis, iind ;i(l ami lieail- ■ which imisl .■iuherelace of the white man's summer sport to-day. The lieail waters of the river lie near Lake Metis in one direction and the trib- utaries of the St. John in another, and for much of its length it flows through a dense wilderness as yet undesecrated by- man. The country drained by it and its tribntaries includes more than two thous- and sf(uare miles in Quebec and New Hrunswick, and is a land of mountains and valleys— the former rising grandly two thousand feet towards the clouds ; the latter having forests in which soli- tude and silence reign. In these regions there are lakes where the beaver has no one to molest nor make it afraid ; there are gorges whose rocks have never echoed the re])ort of a gun ; there are miles upon miles which have never been explored, and where the creatures of the forest roam as freelv as thev did a hundred yeiirs ago. One can retire into the heart of New Hrunswick and reach rivers which lead to all points, such as Tobicpie and St. John, Nepisiguit, Miramichi and others of lesser note, as well as the rivers which run to the St. Lawrence. The estuary of the Restigoiiche is a beautiful sheet of water, more like a lake than the outlet of a river. It extends from Dalhousie to where the tide iind the fresh water meet, eight miles below Metapedia, and in some places is three miles wide. Ascending the river the first place of interest is the site of I'elit Rochelle, three miles above Point Hourdo, destroyed by the Hriti.sh, under Captain Byron, in July, 1760. Byron, with a fleet of five vessels, attacked four French vessels which hod run up the stream to this point. After five hours of fierce combat, two of the French frigates were sunk. The remaining two sought shelter under the stone battery at Indian Village, but in doing so one of them, Le Marquis de Marloize, went ashore, leav- ing Le Bienfaisant at fearful odds against the five ve.ssels of the Knglish. The captain was ordered to haul down his flag, but instead of obeying he went below, applied a light to the maga/.ine and blew his vessel to atoms. Byron then went ashore with his men and burned the villages at Bourdo and Petit Rochelle, and only the ruins of what was then a jjlace with a population of ym families are to be seen at the present day. Passing the mouth of the Meta lia, a distance of seven miles brings thi oy- ageur to the mouth of the Upsalqiiich, the "river that divides like a hand." Here is seen Scjuaditch, or the Squaw Cap, a mountain 2,000 feet in height, and if one cares to ascend to Up.salquitch Lake he will find another conical ca]) which rises to the height of 2,186 feet. Should he continue his journey beyond the lake, he will reach the head waters of the Ne])isiguit, by which he can reach Bale de Chaleur at Bathurst, or the head waters of the Tobique, by which he can descend the St. John to the Bay of Fundv. 49 Ahoul Iwc'tily-iiiMe miles above the I'psahiuilcli is Ihe I'aiapediac, by which the Metis and other rivers cinplyinji into the I.ower St. I,Minst the sky. FoUowinjj the shore from Cross Point, the first phiee of note is Xonvelle, at the head of tlie Uaie de Chak-nr anil jnst onl- side of Restiji;oni-he Hay, witli a river famed for the size and aljuiidaiice of its trout. The Nouvelle Hasin ojkmis into Tracadifjache Hay. " 'IVaeadij^ache " is understood to mean I.ittle Tracadie, and " Traoadie " denotes a camjiin^j j^round. The latter name will he met with a;,'ain in each of the maritime provinces. Carleton, reached by rail, steamer or highway, is a villa(.{e which is crowded between the mountains and the sea for a distance of several miles, varyinjf in width from considerably less than a mile up to a mile and a half. I'roni the rear of the farms rises a chain of hills more than i,Soo feet in altitude, and when one has scaled these heijjlUs he will find liills beyond hills and mountains beyond mountains, f^r awa/ into the interior. The ])eople here are not fishermen, but farmers, and it is in connection with farmiiifr that most of the fishiiijr is done in this part of the country. Herrinj; are used by the ton to fertilize the jiotato fields, thousands of barrels of them beinj,' scattered over the land and plouj^hed in, season after season. The last re- turns put the {XJtato crop of Carleton at about 50,000 bu.';)iels, which makes an average of a third of a thousand bushels to each of the J50 families in the parish. Carleton was settled by the I'rench, who sought a refuge here after the dis- persion of their race in Acadia. Thej' came to stay, and the fact that in a pop- ulation of 1,078 the census gives only four who are not Prencli-Canadians would imply that there is little danger of the Acadian being crowded out in the immediate future. During the summer months, however, there is an increase in the Knglish popu- lation, and one of a very desirable kind. .\ number of residents of < )tlawa, Mont- real and yuebec, spend their vacations here, and tasteful cottages have been built along the shore. .\ prominent Ot- tawa physician sends patients here to get the bi'uefit of air which is not so strong as that further le stream, having a dozen pools within sixteen miles of the mouth. It is not a 1)ij^ river, as might be inferred from the name, bu. it is a fine one, abounding in striki'ig scenery, and with crystal waters fed by springs which make the stream of alinosl. icy coolness, even in the hottest days of summer. Before the Intercolonial Railway made these rivers easily accessible to the lovers of sport, fishing leases could be secured at figures that would now seem ridiculous. Twenty dollars was then considered a fair price for a stream that now costs ;jt2,ocx) or more, and ariv^r to lease at the latter figure need not be an e.\traordinary one. The Bonaventure is an instance of such an advance in val- ue, but it is a fine stream for sport. The salmon taken on it li.ive an average weight of eightein or twi'nt\- ]ioiiiited to the retiuiremeiits of bathers. It is smooth, free from obstructions, and its attractiveness is adde\ ■////■: /lo.x.i I f-.y/iA'/-: av/va' /nfi'nitlt'iiitil f\\)uff 'il '1 and alTords a j^rati'ful shatle from the summer sun. (iood boani can be obtained in this vicinity at very ri'asonable rates, and teams are always to be had for excursions into the surroumlinj^ country. New Carlisle, as before mentioned, is the present eastern terminus of the Atlantic an&. *u^ iiii|i(>rtiiiia' III ks till' sllMtlllT ii'iiolis ohjcits iiisos, |)iiiiiti'(l mil a niitiilii'i' viiiK Uic liki- u liirj^f ))iiil(l •t\' till- initials liiii'f as ail' 111 a j^ival ileal llL' llisloiy of :. K. C." has try fur iiuiri; Is hfj^iiiiiiiii.'. iiiic when 111!.' oltniidt h'liulf this ronlin- ■o til I Iiidsoii Kiii)^ ( "ii'oif^r ami happii'i in 1766 that 1)1' till- llOllSl', y in llu' lirij; Atlantii' ami l.awiemi.' to u' pnisiiil of 111 the liiH'st lair III' the ill! a inaf;iii' i|- at l'as|R'- iitatit i>ia ill the histiii of the ciiuntiy. I'liitnm- atlfiiili'il his viiitnii's ami I'ur twclvf vcars he priis]icn'il even lieMHiil his early ilieimis. Then came ilisastiT. I'ln^laml anil her eolonies were al war with eaeh iitlier, anil Ihonnh it is ilnnhlfiil if the (ishers of CiasiH' tunk niiuli interest in the strii);j;le, they were eri' loiij^ Indiij^hl til a painful ri'ali/atiiin of the fact that tlieri' was a war. Two privateers, niaiineil liy New l'aij,flainl sailors, saili'il inln the Itaie lie (."hali'iir, maile their way to I'as- pehiai- ami ])liinilereil tlu' stori'S of all that I'dulil lie eonveiiii'iitly taken away. 'I'liey al.si) inaile ]iri/.es of Mr. Roliin's two lishin^r vi'S.sels ami saileil away to the !4 tlu- coast, and imtalilv at I'l'ree, their chief stores are at Pasjiehiac, oil a curious liar which is part of a tri- angle, enclosing a liariachnis and reacli- iii).; out from the maiiiland, a mile in leni;lli and several hundred feel in hreadlh. The exteriors of the ^real slrnclnres >;ive token of the immense hnsiiiess done, lint wlii'ii one views the interiors the astonishmeiil at the extent and eoni|ili'leiiess of the oiu'iatiiiiis is in- creased tenfold. I'roni here v;o (isli to manv a foreign laud, over the sea to the south and to the I'ast. (ireat, too, is the ex]iort of that valualile product of the cod, the oil. Much, also, in the way of iiU'rchaiidise, comes from over the sea to ('•aspe. The stores of these hi); concerns .seem to have everything that can lie de- sired, not only in such necessaries as food and raiment, hut in what are luxuries in the lives of the lisher folk. There was a time when everything w.-is imported from across the ocean, hut in these ilays the concerns liny Canadian |iroducts when they can do so to advantagi', lliiinj;li much still comes fioiii the Itrilish markets. The original Charles Koliiii returned to Jersey, a millionaire, in i.Sn.;, leaving the control of the liusiness to his lU'pliews, to lie i-oiiducted on a strict, nnvarviii).; cmle of laws. In this vvav the opeiatiniis h.ive lieeii carried on vear afler vi'ar, ev«'ii though those who are it'ally " C. R. C " to-day have their haliitalion thons.iinls of miles lieyoiid the sea. ICverythiiij.; is doiii' liy rit;iil svslem, and the most luimile details, if within the rules, are as faithfullv .iilhered In as are the most essential ie),;iil.itioiis. Now and aj,'ain one reads of deslilntion, and even famine, ainmi); the lislurnu'ti of New foumlland oi- the peo]ile of I.ahrador. 57 No such calainity ever comes to Gaspe, There are poor peo])le here, as there are everywhere, and some of them are very poor, but the fislierman who brings his catch to the great concerns during the summer and autunm has no fear of hunger and want in the long, cold winter. He will be provided for, and though he may find himself in debt in the spring, he knows that there are more fish in the sea for him, if he lives ; if he die, what cerns. While everything around rasjje- biac tells of business, there is also, apait from the business, much that appeals to the eye by its beauty. Reference has been made to the fisheries of Gaspe as being the finest in the world. This is no mere boast. Much has been heard of Newfoundland, but Gasp^ places itself ahead of even that world-renowned home of the cod. As to quality, the fish caught in this portion of the (^lUlf have . lill: SPUTT/XG con l.\ CASPE Intercolonial Roiilf matter ? He will have had a living, as his father and grandfather had before him. In this way the toilers of the sea are apt to become fatalists. Paspebiac has more than the great stores, warehouses and packing establish- ments. Back from the shore, surrounded by well kept grounds, are dwellings characterized by ta.ste, and even elegance, m their appearance, where reside tho.se who are employes of the gigantic con- probably no equals. Here is their great feeding ])lace. Here they find the smell, the capelin and the young fry of the va.>-l schools of herring which make the Gulf and its bays their spawning ground. The cod taken in these waters in the summt-T and autumn are, therefore, in the best contlilion, the fatness of their livers giving abiuidant evidence of their vigor. The value of the fisheries of Gaspd m:iy be put at about a million dollars a year. 58 v. Hi?. ouiul raspe- s also, apait t appe-.ils to ) the fisheries ill the world, ch has been Gaspd places rld-renowned ility, the fish le (iulf have rcolonial Roii/i' is their ^re^it find the smell, fry of the vast iiake the Gulf ground. The ill the suiiinur re, in the best if their livers of their vigor. s of Gaspe may dollars a vear. In some j'ears it is much more, and in the county of Gas])^ alone, including the Magdalen Islands, there are .seasons when the value is considerably over three- quarters of a million. In the two counties about a score of vessels and 4,5ocj boats are employed in the work and they are manned by some S.ooo men, exclusive of those employed on the shore. The nets and seines used, if fastened one to the other in a single line, would reach arouiul the coast of the Ga.spe I'eniusula so as to leave no opening between the mouth of Restigouche Bay and Cape Cliatte, at the boundary of tiaspe county on the St. I/iwreiice, a di.stance of about 250 miles. Yet Gaspe and Houaventnre are only a part of the " Gulf Division " of the fish- ■eries of Canada. The cod is not the only source of wealth afforded by these waters. About «ne hundred and fifty tons of salmon, taken from the sea off the coast, are ex- ported in ice each .season, to say nothing of the salted salmon. Of herring there are vast quantities, and when there are off seasons in which they are less abun- dant than usual the effect is marked in the decrease of the great staple of cod. ' In some recent years 40,000 barrels of herring have been secured for bait, and there have l)eeti years when twice that quantity has been used for manure. In an onlinary year about 25,000 barrels of herring are sent away .salted, while large quantities are sliip])ed fresh, frozen or smoked. More than a million pounds of canned loksters are .sent away in an average season, while tons of tlietu are shipped fresh from the se;i. Then there are mackerel, hake, haddock and halibut, as well as .sea trout and smelt. Tiiis is, ; in truth, a great country for fish. In this part of the world codfish is ■king. The harvest of the dried fish : amounts to about fifteen million pounds ; in some years, while such jiroducts of the : cod as oil, tongues and sounds, are jiut up and sliij)ped in like proportion. The summer codfishing usually begins i early in May and continues until the i middle of August, after which the fish are not in good condition until September or October, when the fall fishing begins and is continued until the early winter. When there is an abundance of small herring, the catches of cod are sometimes enormous. In the autunni of a recent gooil year there was a i)eriod vvlieii some of the boats at I'aspebiac landed as many as thirty drafts each in a week. There are times in the suminer when the fisher- men cease to t;ike cod, .simply because the fish cannot be sjilit and salted as rapidly as they are brought ashore. Continuing to take them would be a wilful waste. This, however, is not an annual occurrence. There art off years in fi.shing, as in farming, when herring are scarce and the catch of cod below the average. If everj- year were a good one, the Gaspe fisher would have little to trouble his mind. I'rom I'asjK'biac onward, in the proper seasons, all jdiases of the fishing opera- tions may be seen, from the bringing ashore of the shining catch to the final turning of the si)lit and dried fish on the flakes. These ilakes are rough frames of poles and boughs, at a convenient height from the ground, on which are laid the salted fish to be cured by the sun and the breeze. During this process they are tended with great care, and turned and turned again, day by day, until they are the dried cod of commerce, ready to be shipped to luirope. South .America, the West Indies, or any other part of the world where codfish may be in demand. Acres of these drying fish may be seen spread out in the fields, and there are huge circular i)iles of thoroughly cured fish, which look, at a distance, like gigantic grindstones or the foundation tiers of marlello towers. Scenes of Sad Stories Helow I'aspebiac the lobster fishery be- gins to assume larger proportions, at such places as Nouvelle, Port Daniel, Shiga- wake and L'.\n.se aux Gascons. The can- ning factories form an important industry on this part of the coast. It was at Port Daniel that Jacques 59 mfvv^mpvmnvpi ■s. Cartier cast anchor when seekinjf a liaven in the " Raie of Heat." The coast in this vicinity is roujjh, and sugtjestive of shipwrecks in stormy weather. There is a j.;riin sii,t!r!.jestion, too, in the title of Capd'Knfer, alias Cap an Diable, which is to the eastward of the harbor. Tiie heifjhts are nigfjed enough to make the gloomy designation seem not altogether inappropriate. A still more awesome place, no less by its formidable rocks than by its record of disaster, is Point an Maquereau, or Mackerel Point, famous for the wreck of the " Colborne " in the midnight darkness of the night and morning of the istli and i6lh of (October, 1S38. Point au Maquereau marks the end of the Raie de Chaleur, as does Miscon Island on the New Hrunswick side, sotne eighteen miles distant. The Point is also the beginning of the boundary line be- tween die counties of Ronaventure and Gaspe. Beyond it lie Newport, I'abos and Grand River townships. The rivers of the two latter places have already been referred to in con:.^ction with fly-fishing for salmon. All along these shores of the Gulf is the best of codfishing, while the lobster trade assumes still larger pro- portions than along the coast already passed. The next important headland, some twenty-five miles to the eastward, is Cap d'lvspoir, or Cape Despair, as many pre- fer to call it. It looks forbidding enough to warrant the latter title, especially in rough weather. At this point, two and a r many genera- tions it has been of no small service to the mariner on occasioiis when, in the darkness and the storm, his course has been guided by these signals which told him of his bearings. The to]) of the rock is not accessible to the sightseer. The practicability of an ascent by anybody was considered to be out of the tpiestion for more than two hundred vears after these shores were settled, and when two iidventurous fellows accomplished the feat, early in the pa^t century, great was the wonder at their achievement. At only one point was the ascent possible, and then it was accomplished only at great hazard. Others found the waj' there later, but as they made havoc with the birds and their nests, the authorities passed a by-law which tabooed such incursions for the future. It could not be otherwise than that the rock should have its phantoms. The Indians, with their keen sense of the sub- lime, ])eo])led all this land with good and evil spirits, while still more weird stories have been handed down from the early days of the I'rench regime. " Le genie del'Ile I'erce " is said to be the misty form of a female on the summit of the rock, with arms outstretched as if in ap- peal. This spirit has been visible oidj* in dark and tempestuous nights, and those to whom it has appeared have sailed away as rapidly as possible, without Htojijnng to investigate. These facts may give some color to the materialistic belief that imagination has conjured a phantom from the mists of the sea and the clouds of restless sea birds hovering above the clifTs. " Le Roclier de Perce" is believed to be all that remains to be seen of an isthmus that once readied from the main- land tt) what is now the Island of liona- venture. Mount Joli, a promontory with frowning cliffs, marks the point of junc- tion with the land. On the green slope of this headland the most conspicuous object to-day is the lesthetic summer resi- dence of a well known New York artist, whose choice of a site does no discredit to his taste. Guarding the Perce shore against the, winds and waves of the Gulf is Honaveii- ture Island, some two aiul a half miles distant. Seen from the village, its land- ward slo]ie gives little token of the forma- tion of this island. Seen from the .sea- ward, it has another aspect. Save on the surface, it is a mighty rock, with a line of cliff reaching from 250 to 500 feet ■it i I 6z r I '■ k :.^S&L adventurous feat, early in IS the wonder only one point id then it was great hazard, e later, but as birds and their ssed a by-law rsions for the ; than that the lantonis. The :nse of the sub- with good and s weird stories roni the early e. " Le genie . be the misty summit of the ed as if in ap- visible only in ;hts, and those ave sailed away thout stopping icts may give istic belief that ;d a phantom ind the clouds ring above the is believed to be seen of an from the main- sland of liona- romontory with point of junc- he green slope )st conspicuous tic sunnner resi- ew York artist, es no discredit ore against the, rulf is Honaven- iid a half miles illage, its land- en of the fornm- 1 from the sea- :t. Save on the ick, with a line 250 to 500 feet above the sea and forming a preci])itous front. The formation is of red sandstone intermixed with conglomerate. The island is a little over two miles long and three-quarters of a mile l)road. It is a fishing station of considerable importance. This rocky isle was formerlj- the property of one Captain Duval, of whose prowess as a ])rivateer, in the wars of the I-'irst Km])ire, some stirring stories are chronicled. In the time of Denvs de nearly i.^cx) feet above the sea. Here is a handsome monument in honor of Ste. Anne, and here are the cannon which, on great occasions, send out their voices over many leagues of land and .sea. So steep is this mountain at the summ' Miat, jiass- ing on the highway, one would be in- clined to consider it next to inaccessible, but the ascent is made without difficulty when the right direction is taken. Once the to]) is gained, a surpassing view meets m ^ I'ERCE \-//j.A(;i-: A.yj) s/iok/-: 'i I'ronsac, who had a grant of Perec, the ■island was famed for an abundance of I rabbits and wild pigeons. ,' The walks and drives in the vicinity of V Perce are delightful. The chief of them ; is that to the mountain, which gives a igood idea of the possibilities of this part ;'of the world in respect to scenerv. Up, ■;'up the hills one travels, until at last " La )Table-a-Rolland," the sunnnit of Mont .|Ste. Anne, is reached, at a height of tnldcoloiiial Koule the e\c. The visitor is standing on a height which is visil)le to ves.sels at least sixty miles away, and some say to a third more than that distance. The (lulf is doited with near and distant sails, and for many leagues to the north and south is the outline of the shore, with its bays and headlands, the white houses marking the line of the highway along the coast. t)nly to the rear, where the rugged moun- tains rise, seems there a limit to the view, 63 \t and even there tlie majesty of the forest- clad hills must impress the lover of the sublime in nature. I'ercc was visited by Jacques Cartier in 1534, and has been famed as a fishing station for more than three hundred years. It was a place of note lonjf before Quebec was founded, and is thus an old part of the new world in the story of the advent of the European. While not an historic battle ground, it had its experi- ence of war in 1690, when tlie French settlement was ilestroyed by a force from two English frigates. The township has a population of about i,Soo. The fishing district is one of the richest on the Gaspe coast. Gaspd Basin and Village The most convenient way to get from Perc^ to Gaspd is by water, but if one is fond of rugged scenery, he can have it to his heart's content by taking the high- way for a part of the distance, catching the steamer further along the coast. Though much of the journey will be out of sight of the water, the road will be around Mai Baie, as it is called in these days, though Morue Bay is the true title, derived from the abundance of codfish found there. Across this bay, from Perce Rock to Point St. Peter, is only some seven or eight miles, but to follow the road requires a journey of about double that distance. The first half of the trip is up and down long and pro- digiously steep mountains, around which the narrow road curves in the most fan- tastic and, to a stranger, alarming man- ner. Here and there along the route are small hatnlets, or there are lonely houses, so far away on the sides of mountains, or at the bottom of valleys, that a stranger is bound to wonder how people ever got there, in the first place, and why they ever settled there to live and die, when there was plentj' of room for them in so many more accessible parts of the world. Point St. Peter, with its low lying rocks of dark freestone, relieved by the white houses of the fisher folk, marks the en- trancj to the Hay of (laspe. It is an im- portant fishing station, and one of the points on the coast where the fury of a storm is likely to be felt. In fair weather, however, the Point and its surroundings have many attractions. To the north of this, within the bay, is Le Chien Wane, a place which has a record for shipwrecks in former years, and it has an equally dangerous vis-a-vis in I,a Grand Gr^ve, on the north shore, near Cape Gasp4. The Ray of Gaspe, with the latter cape and Point St. Peter as its guardians, is some sixteen miles in length and about six miles in width for the first ten or twelve miles after entering it. Then, narrowing between two points, it leads to a connnodious and land-locked harbor where is the beautiful Ciasp^ basin, one of the safest and fairest havens in all America. On the .south shore of the bay, before reaching Cape Haldimand, are several settlements of note. One of these is Seal Cove, where the native Irish tongue may be heard in everyday conver- sation, and Douglastowu, a place which shared with New Carlisle the liberal grants to the United Empire loyalists who sought homes on the peninsula. Off Douglastowu is a safe and ample anchor- age for even a fleet of ships. That fine salmon river, the St. John, empties into the bay at this point, and ihere is here, as at Mai Bale, a barrachois, with the high- way on the narrow strip of bar which en- closes the lagoon. The entrance to Gasj)^ harbor is between Cape Haldimand and Sandy Beach. Beyond are the north-west and .south-west arms, the latter of which is the basin, with an entrance a little more than a thousand feet wide. These arms are the outlets of the Dartmouth and York rivers, famous for their fly fishing. Gaspe Basin at morning, at evening — ;it ail times — is a place of wonderful beautv, and dull must be the nature that is not in- spired by the charm of the calm waters and the glorious landscape which appeals to one wherever the eye is turned. The stately hills rise in graceful dignity as a setting for this peaceful haven, and the 64 ::s; f ■ ■ It is ail itii- 11(1 one of the the fury of a 11 fair weather, i surroundings the north of Chien Hlanc, a for shipwrecks las an equally Grand Gr^ve, ape Gasp^. the latter cape s guardians, is gth and about .he first ten or -ing it. Then, )ints, it leads to -locke the Prince of Wales, in 1S60, and from first to last there lave been many famous callers at these Ishores. Hills meet the eye throughout the pa.s- Bage of the Ba}' of Gasp^, and on the lorth shore is a succession of cliffs so lagnified b}- the clear atmosphere that Ithey seem to rise to a distance far beyond kheir actual height. The.se hills so pecurely shelter the harbor that it seems the ideal of a place of .shelter whatever Itorins may rage. Gaspe village is finely lituated on the heights overlooking the Basin, and is a place from which one may make a variety of pleasure excursions by land or water. It has good hotel accom- modation, and is in many ways a desirable l)lace of sojourn for those in search of health or ])leasure. Trips by carriage or boat may be made to many points, and everywhere will be found something wortli seeing. Vast (piaiitities of coal oil are believed to underlie this part of the country, and considerable cajiital has been expended in sinking wells. Some of the results have lieen very encouraging, and the time may come when this part of the jieninsula will be known as one of the great oil regions of .\merica. In the meantime, fishing is the great industry. In and around the Bay of Gaspd each se.ison a thousand men go out upon the waters and return day by day, until the results of their toil are .seen in the tnillions of pounds of cod credited to this portion of the shores. The cod taken between I'erce and Caj) des Rosiers in an average year will make over three million pounds of dried fish, while the annual value of all the fisheries in that limit is over $200,000. In these may be included some 100,000 pounds of fresh salmon in ice and a like quantity of canned lobsters. These figures, it must be remembered, appl}- only to the small stretch of shore around this part of the peninsula. They represent only about one-third of the results of the Gaspe fisheries in these particular lines, not including the returns of the outlving district of the Magdalen Islands, which belong to Gaspe county. No one who has the time can afford to leave (iaspe without a closer examination of the surroundings than a steamer voyage can give. A visit to the Cape and to Ship Head will reveal a magnificent panorama of land and marine scenerv. Within the Bay, as the Cape is approached, are miles of .shore dotted with the depots of the great fishing con- cerns and the white houses of the fisher- men. The Cape itself, a regular headland of limestone, is a notable place, and on «s tile lliiitli sidi' In ii raiij^c of j^niliil rliffs risiiiji sonic juo (vvi iihovi' tlii' sea. Sliip lli'acl was oiii'f noted for a ]>ci"iiliar roi-k, (litailu()ssibly bi' found," was his verdid, and he named the i)eaceful haven " The Hay of Heat." It is somelimes described ill the ])lural form as Haie des Chaleurs, but willloul any autlioril\'. Locally, it is known as ]\f[y Chaleur. l'"or many miles the Intercolonial railway runs close to the shore, and few- fairer sights are to be seen chan the broad and beautiful ex])aiise of water, with its numerous little inlets on the New Mruiiswick side and the lofty ami imjjosing mountains rising grandly on the shore of Ouebec. b'or miles, too, the land is settled, and the green fields of well-lilled farms add another charm to the scene. Of a summer day, with a gentle bree/e rippling the smooth surface of the water, the yachtsman feels that he has at last found the object of his dream. There is no finer yachting bay on the North Atlantic coast. The waters of the bay abound with net fish, and there is also a line chance fcir line fishing. Catihing mackerel is a favorite recreation, the season lastinj.; from early in July until the last of Se])- lember or later. The mackerel of the (iiilf of St. Lawrence are of large si/e, but here as elsewhere the mackerel are ca])ricious in their movements. In some seasons they are very abundant. Horse mackerel, or tunny, can also be caught in the bay by those who have a taste for that kind of sport. The shore fisheries on the New Hruiis- wick side of the bay are a great source (if revenue to the ])e«])le. The value of the fish of all kinds taken around the coast of Rcstigoiiche and Gloucester coiinlies each year is about one and three-cpiarter million dollars. Helween three and fmir thousand men .-ire engaged in fishing, ami a large amount of capital is investid 66 ^1 i m _i. vimii iliiy i'l w hail beiMi uui' 1)1' tl>*' 111 coiilnist iMil iiiid tlif ;i vision <,iiiids in this jiart of the world, where they can sonii'limes be seen by the loll. .\s many as two hundred salmon, wilh an averai^e weij,dit (,f twent\' ])(,iinds each, li.ive been seen hiiij; (,ii tlu' /titi'ff'olonidl A^oiiff' Iloor iif :i free/iiix-li llii'\ li:iil ooiiii- from tlif lU'ts witliipiil ]lilkill^; oi- SDllillK. As for lohslers, alxml a iiiillion pDuml^ i)f tliL'tii ari' si'iil fnmi Kcstij^oiu'lic and (iloiii't-stur in I'aiis farli simsoii, ami a iiuu-h lar^LT (luaiitity ari' scnl away frrsli. There are many other ])r<)(liicts of the sea whii'h >,'o to make m]( the Kfeat a ^,'f; rebate and fstahUsh the fame of this i>arl of the country fur the uealtli of its waters. All the rivers which flow into the hay are j^'ood fishing,' streams. Sea trout are found in the estuaries, and hrook trout in the streams ahove. While not so lar>{e as those found in the streams further north, they are of ).food si/.e and excellent flavor. The sea trout will averaj^e four and five ])ounils ; the others run all the way from half a ])ound to four pounds. The Cliarlo is a fine river for this kind of anj^linjj;, and it is at its best after the middle of Au),aist, thouj^h there is j.;oo(l lishintj at any lime from the first of July to the middle of September. The best brook trout are found on the South Urancli, above the falls, the latter beinj,' three miles from the railway, and the fishinj; is j^ood from there for a distance of fifteen or twenty miles back. A basketful, containin;.^ from 150 to 2cx), averaj,'in;.; about two to the pound, is not an unusual record of a day's fishiu),' by one man. Sea trout are cau>;ht anywhere in the three miles between Henderson's bridjre and the bay, and some famous catches have been made. (lood s])ort may also be found at the lakes, a few miles from the villaj;e. Another well known stream, both for salmon and trout, is Jacquet river, about fifteen miles below Charlo. The scenery on it is wilil and striking, the waters running between precipitous rocks roar- ing in cascades and foaming ainit' lioals. Si>iiU'liiiU's it iiiis tlu' Miiitiliiiii'i' of a ItuniinK Vl■^'S^•l iiimiin' mill's away. More (rt'cim-iUiy it looks like a l)all of liri', appaii'iitly i-losi' at liami. Now ami lliiMi it Marts liki' a ini'ti-or, and a^aiii ^lideH aloii>{ with a slow and di^niilii'd iiiution, Oci'asionally it niounis i'a|iidly in tlu- air, sails away and dcsci'nds on a clislaiil ])art of tlic hay. It is altom-ilii-r mysterious and t'oct-ntrio. One iiia\- waleh for months and fail to nvl a );liin])se lost clui ii'n a storm .nul iniini'di.ili'ly after the event the li^ht liej,'an its vagrant existence. 'I is one of the strange thin).;H that I'onie in \" ith llie lij;ular ])arl of the story is that it has appeared above the ice in the de])th ot winter. There is, of course, a tradition, and it is to the effect that just before the light a])])eared for the first time a part of the crew of a wrecked vessel were mur- dered by their com])anions, who ajijiro- jiriated all the iilimder they could j^et. The jiiratical sailors were subsefpienllv Inlocoltiuial A'mi/f built a chapel near the site of the ])reseiit town. The first Ivnglishm.in to make the l>lace his home was Iluyh Sutherland, who came in 17S1), and the Sutherland name as well as the manor may be found there to this day. The settlement w;is orij,nnally known as Indian I'oinl, an.* itself in favor as a summer resort, and there is no lack of accommodation for visitors who wish to remain there for a time, (iood board can be secured at the houses of well-to-do farmers, and houses may be rented by those who want to do their own housekeep- ing. These iire rented furnished and a cook supplied, so that parties may have all the comforts of home without the drudgerj- of domestic affairs. What is known as liathurst village, to distinguish it from Hathnrst, the sh i re- town, is just across the bridge from the latter, over a shallow estuary. It is also known as St. Peter's, the original name of this settlement. Hathnrst is beautifully situated on a hill which t nnnands a fine prospect to the seaward and is a very healthful place. There are delightful drives in the vicinity. Oiu' of lli'jse is to the Tele-a- ffauche, the falls of which are in a rocky }ior^ii about seven miles from the town. The word " Tete-a-,nauche " is one of the instances in which an attempt has been made to j^ive a I'rench form to a jiurely Indian word. The Micniac name was Too- do()-j;oosk, accordin.i; to I'rof. Cianoiiff, who has made a study of the place nomenclature of New Hrunswick, but it has been spelled in all sorts of ways by various writers. There has been a cherished belief that the meaning is " I'airy River," but (ianong thinks that this is probably not correct, though it may mean a small river. Kairy River is a good enough name for it, however, whatever the Micmacs may have meant. Another of a junnber of drives worth taking is up the Nepisiguit river to the Pabineau Kails, a distance of eight miles, taking in the Rougli Waters on the return. At the latter place the river has a very rapid run for about a mile, amid huge granite boulders, fragments of the ])re- historic rock over which the sea flowed in four centuries of the unrecorded ages. The Ne])isiguil derives its name from its turbulent nature, the word being a corruption of, and possibly an im])rove- menl on Win-jieg-ij-a-wik, the meaning of which is rough or troubled water. The river is about eighty-four miles long to the head of I'pper Lake and is a famous stream for salmon and trout. There are salmon ])ools all along the river as far as Cirand Falls, twenty miles from Uathurst, and the choice spots are at the Rough Waters, three miles ; I'abine;iu l'"alls, eight miles ; Middle handing, sixteen miles, and at the Crrand Falls. The latter are in two ))itches and have a descent of one hundred and five feet. The Pabineau Ivdls are more in the nature of a series of rajiids. The Nepisiguit salmon are iu)l large, as salmon go in this jiart of the world, but they are what are known and valued as gamey fi.sh. They run to eighteen or twenty jwunds or over, but the average is ten or twelve jjounds. The river is com- posed of rapids, and one may place a fish for every fool of it. The 'iver is under lease, of course, and has some fine camjjs on it, but a visitor may arrange for fishing on it by a])i)lying to the ])ostm;ister at Rathurst. I'"ishing guides may be had for 5 1. 25 a day. It is an e(|ually good trout river, and while these fish are found at all points, they are especially plenty above Grand F'alls. Many of them weigh four pounds each. At Devil's I^lbow, about half way up the river, is a famous trout pool, and there are numerous other places where the fisherman will be well rewarded. At the head waters of the Nipisiguit are five lakes, around which may be found, in their season, an abundance of duck and geese. From these lakes one can portage to the Upsalquitch. and thence to the Restigouche, to the Tobi(|ue, and down to the St. John, and to the North- west Miramichi, and them-e to Newcastle- The country is wild enough in the inte- rior, and abounds in lakes and stre.ims not lai which are models of their class. The sportsman in search of wild fowl will find one of the best localities in the country at I'oiut Kscuminac, which rivals even the famed Point Miscou as a resort of ducks and gee.se. Then, too, those who are not s])orlsmen may find much to interest them at various j)oints along the river. If they h;ive read Canadian history they will remember that the ship which carried (ieueral Wolfe's body from Ouebec to luigland put in at ^Miraniichi for fresh water. Six: men were sent ashore at Henderson's Cove, where (iil- monr and Rankin's mill was afterwards built, and were murdered by Indians. The cajjtain, sui>posing that the I'reiu-h had connnitted the deed, jjmceetled to silence the battery al I'"rench I'"ort Cove, then went to Canadian I'oinl, destroyed it and killed most of the ])eo])le, and on his wa}' down river stop])e(l long enough to burn the church at what has ever since been known as liurnt Church I'dinl. He ap])ears to have been a man of consider- able energy, but it was a bad mistake and rather hard on the Acadians. The Miranii.chi river is 225 nnles long, its head waters lying in Carleton and Victoria counties, within eas}' reach of the Si. John and its tributaries. The Northwest Branch begins near the head waters of the Nepisiguit, and the two branches unite at Heaubair Island, a short distance above Newcastle. Hoth are fed by numerous large streams, and the river drains over 6,000 scjnare miles of country, an area equal to about a (juarter of the province. It is navigable for large vessels to the bridges above Newcastle, and for canoes for numy hundred miles. The vast country which it drains has never been thoroughly explored ; even the ubic|uitous lumberman has but a partial knowledge of it ; and it will readily be seen that its resources for the hunter are practically without limit. Moose, caribou, deer, bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, loup- cerviers anil all the smaller animals range these forests, while fish leaj) hoin every lake and stream. Hy this great natural highway and its connections one may reach every section of the ])rovince where the hunter wishes to go. One whose time is limited does not need to wander far from Chatham or Newcastle in orilerto find abundant sport. As for fishing, he is in a fish country from which the annual ex]iorts of salmon, smelts, bass, etc., are something increilible. Rod fishing may be had in every direction, and some of the lakes have never been fully exploretl. Wherever there is a high bank on one side and a low beach on the other will be found a ])ooI to which salmon are sure to resort. The Ox Row, on the I.iitle Southwest, a mile above Re'i^ .station, twenty- one miles from Xewcastk- and twetit- three from Hatluirst, lias (.'xtensive lari- bou barrens, wliile moose are al.so found there. The district has a wide re])utation for bear hiintinj;. is reached by }.coinj,' to Roj.;ersville sta- tion, from which it is a journey of nine miles. Information as to these loc-dities, j.;uides, etc., may be liad from Williatn Wyse, j(ame w.irden, Chatham ; R. H. Armstrong, Newcastle, or I!. Bishop, Hathurst. The Great Fire " .Ml it re(|uiref the scene have passed away beyond recall. It was the good fortune of the writer, several years ago, to hear from the lips 77 i of some f)f thf aj^i-d siirvivors tlif story of thai dreadful da\ , and to write the faels as they told them. Tlie ]>ietiires which their minds retained were t'.irillinj.; in the extreme ; the reality iiuisl have heeii appalling in its horrors. They reiiieinhered the Miramiehi of their voiith as a country rich in resources, with a larj^e and ra])idly increasiuj.^ liiid)er trade. Newcastle had then a population of about 1,000, while probably a third of that number were settled at Douglastown, a few miles below. The vast re>,don through which the river and its tributaries flowed contained a wealth of maLjnificent timber, of such a character that it would be difficult for one to calculate its value if it were available at the present day. An idea of its size has been gained from the remains of the immense stunijjs of charred pine luiearthed from time to time duriiiff the l)uildinj^ of the railway, the like of which cannot be found in what is even now a wonderful lumber country. The summer of 1S25 was a prosperous one, and hundreds of men in the woods and settlements looked forward to still more extended operations in the winter. The autumn came with even more than the usual sjileiulor which attends it in this northern land. The sky was unclouded for weeks. Not a drop of rain fell over the vast ran).;e of coimtry, and the forest cracked with unwonted dryness, while the <(rass withered and the flowers faded. The little rivulets ceased to flow, aiul the }j;reat river shrank far from its accustomed bouiuls. The ground was parched as in midsunnner drouth, while the air was close and a sultry heat oppressed the senses. October came, and as the days of its first week passed the air grew more stifling and the heat more oppressive, though the sun was less bright than it had been and shone like a disc of copper through a faint smoke which seemed to come from a distant region. vSome said that the woods were afire far to the north and west, but for this the dwellers on the jNIiramichi cared little. The axe rang in the depths of the forest, the harvest was gathered in the settlements, and trade nourished in the growing town of Newcastle. On I'riday, the 7th of October, the townspeo])le observet whort' to look for safely. It is not straiij^e that iiiaiiy of theiii believed the Day of JuilKineiit was at hand, and piinic-stricken, ceased their stnigjfles, to iini)lore mercy from Heaven. On what is now the public stmare stood the court house and jail. The court had that day finished its assize, and several prisoners had been sentenced. Two or three had been condemned to death, and one of them was a negro woman who had murdered her child. When the fire burst upon Newcastle the prisoners saw their danger, and a fearful shout, a wail of supplication mingled with the agony of despair, came from tlie windows of the prison. Some men who were on the street paused long enough in their flight to burst open the outer door, but by the time the ])risoners were at liberty a sei of flame and smoke surrouniled them. The woman ran out, but scarcely had she cleared the portal when she fell to the earth and yielded nj) her life to the flames by which she was surrounded. The scene at this awful hour defies description. Half naked men and women, shouting and shrieking, were fleeing for their lives, some seeking only their own safety and others striving to rescue those who were helpless by reason of childhood, age or infirmity. The greater portion fled to a marsh west of the town, and among them were several suffering from typhoid fever and small-jiox. Few of the fugitives attempted to save any of their worldly goods. Uveii the money in the tills was left untouched, and one man fled from his house without stopping to take one of a thousand silver dollars which it liad required years for him to accumulate. One man has told the writer that he would have left a peck of doubloons un- disturbed, so certain was he that the end of the world had come. Others, less excited, threw their money and valuables in the river, and then sought safety for themselves. Some tried to escape by crossing the Miramichi on sticks of tim- ber, but as the river was like an angry sea many met a death in its waters. An entire family, consisting of husband, wife and several children were .-imoiig those ilrowiied. In another instance, at Harlibogue, one girl was the survivor of a family of nine who perished in the flames. The fury of the fire made its duration brief after its further ])rogress was checked by the bro;id river. In three hours New- castle and the .settlements in the vicinity were in ashes. Ou\y one or two luiildings in the town escajjcd. .\t DoiiJ^lastown the only house sjjared was that in which lay a corjise awaiting burial. Those who were in the woods have told how they owed their escape to their taking refuge in the river and plunging their heads beneath the water from ininiite to minute during that terrible iiiglit. .-Ml around them, in some instances, were alike the fiercest and most timid beasts of the forests, harmless and trembling in their terror of a common datiger. Ivven the water was but a partial refuge, for so hot was it in the shallow jjlaces that myriads of fish were literally cooketl to death. Briefly stated, the Miramichi fire was one of the greatest of which the world has any record. It swept over the country, from the head waters of the river, in a sheet of flame one hundred miles broad, and burned all before it in an area of more than four thousand stjuare tniles, four hundred miles of which was settled country. It will never be known how many lives were lost. Cooney says there were one hundred and sixty, but as many who perished in the woods were strangers without kindred to trace their disappearance the estimate is un- doubtedly a low one. Whole families were destroyed, and hundreds made homeless and destitute, though abundant relief came to them later, not only from the Hritish possessions but the Inited States. Apart from the incalculable loss in the forests, the fire destroyed about a million dollars' worth of jiroperty, in- cluding six hundred houses and nearly nine hundred head of cattle. The light i i 79 of it WHS seen :is far us tlu- Mi^^clak'n l)elifve, hiil lliis was as aj;aiiisl 5,(i.v in iSSi, showing an iiicrfase of more lliaii ;.( jier cent, in ten years. This was a ^'reater ratio of increase than was shown (Uirin>{ llie same l)erio(l in any ])lai-e In the Maritime I'rov- inees, witii the exeei)tions of SjiriiiKhill Mines and Varni'/iith, Nova Scotia. AUowiii); the saiiie steady increase since iSyi, the population to-day would he really in excess of the estimate given. In the ])eriod named the amount of capital invested in industries was more tlian douhled. It is a place of j.;reat ])()ssil)ilities and itajjpears to he livinj,'U]) to them. The fact that the j^'eiieral ofiices and workshops of the Iinercnnnciation the inoderni/.ed form is )irobably more acceptable to the general public than tin- original would be. It is one of the rivers that dei)en(l verv much oil the tide for their im])ortance. In fact, when there is no tide the river goes out of business for all pniclical ])uri)oses, and only shows what a chance there would be for a river if there were enough water to fill the yawning hollow between the two banks. There is some water, i' is true, but the quantity looks to be .so small as it Hows along the channel, with the hundreds of feet of slo])ing banks of red mud on each sitle, that it is scarcely worth considering. There are miles of this smooth, slijijjery mud, inclined at an angle of rejjosc, and for several hours of each day the vessels at the wharves are as clear of the water as if they were in a hay field. This is the way the Petitcorodi.!;ions Hood conld he seen when thirlv miles distant, ap- proaehinj; the shore in one tremi'ndons wave and with a nii.nhty noise. The stranger who looks for anything like this will he disa])])ointed. The tide t.'ikes its time to rise, 1)nt after it enters the wide month of the I'etiteodiac it meets with a cheek to its rei^nlar (low by the narrowin.ic of the river alxait I'ij^dit nules below Moncton. 'i'he Hood does not j)anse, bnt comes thron,t,'h the narrow s])ace in a hmry, rollinij itself uj) the river in a wave which looks like a rapidly advancing; wall of water. This is the bore. The heij.;ht of it varies according to the conditions bv which the outside ti. There are tinu's wlnn the bore is disap- pointing to those who have been led to ex])ect too much, hut under anything like favorable conditions it is a sight well deserving of a stranger's time and trouble. In months when ;he s])ring tides are f\ill it is worth going a long distance to see. Hnctouche, thirty-two miles from Moncton by the Hnctouche and Moncton railway, and twenty miles from Richi- bucto, has a k)ng established fame for the excellence of its oysters. It has a fine harbor, and with a good f.irming country behind it has many natural advantages as a snnnner resort. It .attracts many visitors every season. Seven nules beyond Moncton. on the line of the Intercolonial, is I'ainsec Junc- tion, from which a l)ranch of the railwav runs to Shediac, nine miles, and Point du Chene, eleven iiiiles. At this junction the traveller changes cars to take the steamer which rims between Point du Chene and Sunnnerside, Prince Ivdward Island, during the season of navigation. The stranger who knows something of the I'riMich langu.ige natur.illy falls into the popular error of su]>])osing that the n.iine of Painsec has some reference to '■ dry bread." It is, however, a corrui)- tion of Pin sec, or "dry i)ine," and the ])lace was formerly known as Pine Hill.* Shediac and Point du Chene The Shediac oysters have a long estab- lished reputation on account of their excellent (jiiality, for there are oysters anil oysters, and while all are good some of them are better than others, accoriling to the locality in which they are found. vShediac has more than its oysters to reconnneml it, however, for it is one of the most ])leasant of the summer resorts on this shore. The village is prettily situated, while the harbor is a beautiful sheet of water, about a mile ami a half wide, and from three to live miles long. All ar.)imd it is a smooth and gently slo])ing sand beach, alTording I'verv facil- ity for bathing in the jileasantly warm water. Hath houses have been erected liv nr. \V. 1'. I'.aiioiii;. in 'rnin*. Kowil Soik-lv ul' R C.1 e. ^1 hf hi .\| iJ h| sl «4 I for tliosi' who (k'sire tlieiii, aiii])i)ii the \ve;ik and unwary. Tliere are neither sciualls nor rou.nh seas in the harlior, and it is a s])lendid eruisint; jjroiinil for pleasure hoats. Shediae Island, a short distance away, is niueh in favor for pleasure ])arties. A visit to the Cai>e, one of the ])rettiesl jilaces in the vieinity, will well re])ay one for the tronhle. I'oint du Chene, two miles helow .Shediae, is the deep water terminus and ])ort of slii])tnent. Here, in the snnuuer, may he seen lar^e numhers of s(iuare- rijjged vessels, loading with Inmher for ])laces across the ocean. Daily coimnnni- cation is had with Prince Ivdward Island by steamer. .Ml that has been said of Shediae a])|)lies with ecpial force to the I'oint, and the latter has for the tourist additional advantages. The view from the shore on a calm sninnar day is one which cannot fail to charm. Add to this the fresh, invigorating hree/es from the water, with excjllenthathing and boating, and Point du Chene is one of the j)laces to be sought as a (|uiet, hea'.thful antl restful retreat, A great deal of c|uiel enjoyment may be had from the trout fishing in this vicinity. The streams most sought by the Hiigler are the Shediae and the Scadonc. On the former, good places are found at Hateman's mill, four miles from the village, and at (Gilbert's mill, two miles beyond. Hetween these places and Point du Chene sea trout may be caught, weighing three and fom- ])ounds each. I"ishing begins in the latter part of Mav, and the lly ])referred is the red hackle. Down the shore good fishing is had ;it Dickey's mill, three miles, and at .\boushagaii, eight miles distant, (iood iiass and mackerel fishing is had in the harbor and olT the island, in the fall. In September and October three and four I -.lund bass can be caught from the wharf at Point du Chene. Oysters, of course, are abundant, while sea-clams, mud-clams and lobsters are found everywhere along the shore. Plover shooting begins on the isl of Sejiteml" . and good success is had on the shor. from Point du Chene to liarrachois, a range of about four miles. The shore is also ;i gotxl ])lace for geese, brant anil ducks, in the s])ring and fall, and another good shooting ground is at Oraiid Digue, about eight miles distant by road. Hoard is very reasonable at and in the vicinity of Shediae, and indeed in all ihis l)art of tlie ])rovince. The tour of Prince Ivlward Island will be described further on in these ])ages. h'or the jiresent it will lie assumed that the tourist has returned from Point (hi Chene to Painsec Junction and resumed his journey to Xova Scotia. .\fter leaving the Junction he eiitiMs uiion a fine farming country, which bicomes more settled and much better cultivated along the line of railway as he ])roceeds. Dorchester and Sackville Memramcook, nineteen miles from Moncton, is a ])ros])erous district, chielly peopled by the Acadian I'rench. \\. College Hridge, two miles beyond Mem- ramcooV; station, is St.Josejih's I'liiversity, with other institutions, undei' the charge of the P'athers of the Congregation of the Holy Cross, which has been a powerful f.ictor in the education of the .\cadian peo])le. The gentle slo])e of the valley gives an achnirable location for the grounds and buildings. Dorchester, twenty-seven miles from iSIoncton and twenty-one from .\niherst, is the .shiretown of Westmorland county and a ])lace to which the jirovince is indebted for .some of its distingu.shed sons, on the bench, at the bar, and in ])olitical life It has also given New llnmswick out of its governors. The \ illage is jileasantly situated on the high ground above the valley through which the railway runs, and has a large hotel, moiiern in its a]>pointineiits and designed to meet th" naiit summer tourists. The conveiiie of Dorchester to the tidal waters allows of excellent oiijior- In tuiiilies for balhinj,' aloii.LC tlu' Nhorc of the harbor, and a miiiihur of the lea(liii<,r residents have erected hath houses there. Th-j beach is a jjood one and the water of a very agreeable temperature. In approachiiiji Dorchester the Mari- A'OCAS A T HOPFAVr.l.l. i .l/V. time Penitentiary bnildinSt. Lawrence adds to the accunuilation, and jiiles it up in lunnmocks like those encountered in the .Vrctic regions. In some places there will be open water. a crafi from the iceboat as understood on the great rivers and lakes. The latter is really not a boat but a ])latforin on run- ners, equipjied witii a sail and cajiable of Hying over the frozen surface at a high rale of speed. The ice boat of the Strait St is aclually a hoal. i-oiistnictt'd with ^pt'cial reference to the work it has to do. It is aht)iit eighteen feet loiii;, five feet lieaiii and a little over two feet deeji. The (iesijfii is to combine strcnf^th with li.i,'ht- liess, and so the stout frame has a coverinjj of cedar boards sheathed with sheet tin. The two keels, shod with iron, act as runners on the ice. On each side of the boat are straps, and by the aid of these the boat is