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1 2 3

NOTES

ON A

TRIP TO AMERICA,

1889.

JAMES M'QUEEN,

OF CROFTS.

CASTLE-DOUGLAS :

PRINTED BY .T. II. MAXWELL, "ADVERTISER" OFFICE.

"preface.

Hearing that my friend, Mr James Biggar, was
thinking of paying another visit to America
revived in me an old desire to cross the Atlantic,
which home and other duties had hitherto
prevented me from gratifying. Last August
circumstances seemed more favourable for my
leaving home for a lengthened period, and <>u
the 22nd of that month I found myself on board
the "Vancouver," bound for Montreal.

The following notes give some idea of what
we saw and heard "the other side the water,"
and I can only hope they may possess some
interest for those who read them.

J. M 'QUEEN.

Crofts, Dalbkattik, N.B.,
January 1890.

C27G71

■

NOTES ON A TRIP

GRMM and tl^e DJIITBD STATES,

1880.

EFT Liverpool on 22nd August, 1889, at 8
p.m., on board the Dominion Steamship
'Vancouver,' Captain Lyndall in com.
mand, and ran right to Moville (North
of Ireland), 192 miles, where we took the mails
on board and a few more passengers. Left at 4
p.m. on Friday afternoon, the 23d, the ship
now crowded in every part. A great number
of Canadians were returning home after seeing
London and visiting the Paris Exhibition. The
run up to noon on Saturday was 252 mUes, but
the weather from leaving Moville and all Satur-
day was cold and stormy, and all inexperienced
sailors were not much seen on deck. On
Sunday the weather was more settled. Service
was held on board, and there was a good
attendance ; run up to noon 332 miles. On
Monday the weather was finer, and many more
passengers appeared on deck ; run, 330 miles.
Tuesday, weather fine, run 305 ; Wednesday,
weather fine, run 314 miles ; Thursday, fine, run
286 miles. Much colder, being in proximity to
the icebergs. The ship was delayed for two hours

B^-es

t J

at the m<>uth of the Straits of Belle Isle, run
286 miles. I niay mention at this stage that
life on board a ship is very pleasant if the
weather is fine, and the voyage not too U)ng.
There is always something going on to attract
and help to pass the time, such as getting
acquainted with new people, reading books,
playing at rope quoits, shovel board, &c. ; also
chess and whist at nights. I may mention that
my friend and I had a quoiting match with two
Canadian gentlemen from Montreal, and I am
pleased to tell you that the credit of the ' old
country ' was kept up.

On Friday we ran up the St. Lawrence
River, and passed the Island of Anticosti, and
called at Rimouski, where letters could be sent
home.

Saturday, 31st. — Still going up the St.
Lawrence. About thirty miles below Quebec we
come to the Island of Orleans, which is 22
miles in length. After we pass it we see, away
to the right, the celebrated falls of Mont-
morency, with a perpendicular descent of 240
feet, and a width of 50 feet. Many French-
Canadian villages are seen on each side of the
river, with their small white houses and big
churches. We arrived at Quebec about three
o'clock afternoon. A good many passengers
landed, and left by train for their several
destinations. Those who were going on to
Montreal next day went ashore for a few hours

to see the city, as the ship would not sail until
the morning. We drove up to the citadel,
where we had a splendid view of the city and
harbour. We also looked down on the Lans-
downo Terrace, of which the city was proud ; but,
strange to say, not many weeks after wo saw it
it rushed, and fell on some houses underneath,
and a good many people were killed. Quebec
has a population of 75,000. It is an old city,
and very irregularly built. The lower tcwn
abounds in narrow streets and quaint houses.
The upper town has all the fine public buildings,
hotels, &c. Quebec is a great lumbering centre,
and an immense business is done in timber ; a
lot is shipped here for Europe. The Canadian
Pacific Railway has its terminus here, and the
distance to Vancouver City, the terminus on the
Pacific side, is 3078 miles.

Sunday, Sept. 1. — We sailed up the St.
Lawrence River to Montreal, and being a fine
day, we saw the utiful scenery on each side
to great advantage. The St. Lawrence is a
noble river, and the sail up it that day gave us so
much pleasure and enjoyment that it will never
be forgotten. We landed at Montreal about 6
p.m., and after having our luggage inspected
and passed we drove to the Windsor Hotel,
which is one of the largest and finest hotels in
the world. Perhaps it seemed loftier and bigger
to us after the small and confined berth we had
to occupy in the 'Vancouver.' We certainly

felt a Bense of freedom and space as wo
walked for nearly a quarter of a milo through a
lofty corridor to our bedroom. Next day we
went about the city, and we saw what a large
and prosperous city Montreal has become. The
population (with 8uburb8)now stands at 250,000.
After lunch3on v/e drove up to the top of Mount
R(yal, which rises 700 feet above the river.
Here wo have a splendid view of the city, and
we can see away down the valley of the Sc. Law-
rence, and the views on all sides are of great variety
and beauty. Looking across the river, we see
a part of the city occupying the east side.
There are two islands, the Nun's and St,
Helen's Isle. The latter is laid out as a public
park. It occupies the bed of the river immedi-
ately below the Lachine Falls, a,nd between
them the river is spanned by the great
Victoria Bridge. This wonderful piece of
engineering is a tubular iron bridge, supported
on twenty-four piers of solid masonry, which
require to be extra strong to resist the enor-
mous pressure of the ice in spring. Near
at hand we can see the spires and domes of the
numerous cnurches and public buildings, which
rise above the general mass of houses. We see
the wharves and docks crowded with shipping
from all parts of the world. The industries are
large, and we see saw-mills, engine works,
woollen and cotton mills, large rubber works ;
also sugar refining works. The upper portion

of the mountain, an area of 4.30 aures, is laid
out as a imblic pork, and you see many fine
trees shading the drives. Two cemeteries are
on the western slope, the Roman Catholic
Cemetery and the Mount Royal or Protestant
Cemetery. I omitted to mentitm that Montreal is
situated on an island about 30 miles in length,
and 7 miles in breadth, at the confluence of the
Rrver» Ottawa and St. Lawrence. Next day,
Sept. 3d, we took the cars t<.> ^^therbrooke to see
the Fair. We j^issed through a very poor
country. The arable land was fall of stumps
and stones, and between these and the awkward
snake-fences my firat impression of the farming
in Cpnadft was not a favourable one. The
country near Sherbrooke improved a little. It
is Maid to be good grazing land, but witl. the
continued drv weather it had a barren look.
The day Wfxs very Avarm, and the showyard was
hot and dusty, but there was a great concourse
of people, and a good turnout of stock. These
fairs last for about a week, and the people all
round the country flock to them. The harvest
being over they make it an annual Iioliday.
The buildings for the industrial work and
also for the stock are pennanent. Among
the cattle shown there were some good
Galloways, Herefords, and Shorthorns. The
horaes, however, were rather a poor class.
We saw some good trotting, which is a great
attraction at all the fairs. They make a track

forthe purpose. Aballoonascenttook place, which
is another exciting feature of the fairs. The
balloon went up about 4000 feet, and then the
man came down on a parachute — a very danger-
ous looking performance. It evidently caused
great excitement amongst the spectators. We
left Sherbrooke in the afternoon, and returned
to Montreal, and left again at 10.30 p.m., taking
sleeping berths to Kingston, where we arrived in
the morning. After we had breakfast at a
hotel, we called on Professor and Mrs
Marshall, ./ho had been fellow-passengers on
the ' Vancouver.' We also called for Rev. Mr
Mackie, lata of Dalbeattie, but did not find him
at home. He is getting a fine new church
built. The old one was burned down lately.
Kingston is situated on the north-eastern
extremity of Lake Ontario, where the St.
Lawrence issues from it There are many fine
buildings. Kingston is the seat of the Queen's
University and College, and of a Medical
College, affiliated to the University. The Boyai
Military College of the Dominion is also at
Kingston, The harbour is deep, spacious, and
sheltered, and a brisk trade is carried on.
Kingston as a naval station commands an im-
portant position. It commands the entrance to
the Rideau Canal. We went to the fair which
was going on, and saw the stock and other
attractions. Beingshortof sheep judges,myfriend,
another gentleman, and I judged all the sheep

classes, and we were afterwards pleased to hear we
had given the utmost satisfaction. We stayed over
night with Professor Marshall. His house is
beautifully situated close to the Lake, and we
spent a very pleasant evening. Next day we
went back again to the Fair for a short time, and
then took the cars for Toronto, where we
arrived about 7 o'clock, an d went to the house of Mr
Thomson (a cousin of Mr Biggar). Next day we
walked into the city, and during the afternoon we
drove round to see the rows of fine houses lately
built, and broad streets newly laid out. We
were greatly struck with the surprising
rapidity with which it had sprung into a city of
vast dimensions. In 1881 Toronto Iiad a
population of 86,000, and now it has over 140,000.
Toronto is the capital of the province of
Ontario, "nd is the second largest city in the
Dominion of Canada. It is situated on a finely
sheltered bay on the north shore of Lake
Ontario. It possesses every advantage to make
it a large commercial and thriving city ; it is
surrounded by a rich agricultural country ; the
harbour is safe, and admits cf the largest Lake
steamers. It is well served by railways, so that
it forms an important commercial centre for
distribution. The public buildings and churches
are very fine. New Parliament Buildings are
being erected in the centre of the Queen's
Park. A new University has been built lately,
an imposing structure of great architectural

beauf.y, in the Norman style, with a massive
central tower. Toronto is possessed of every
advantage for educational purposes. With the
University College, the School of Practical
Science, and other training establishments, it is
enabled to give a most comprehensive system of
training in arts and sciences to all who
desire it.

Next day we left Toronto at one o'clock
on the steamboat, and sailed across Lake
Ontario, and up the Niagara River to Lewiston,
where we took the cars for Niagara, and we
went to a hotel on the American side near t.\<d
Falls. We spent the whole of next day in
viewing the Falls from different standpoints,
I must confess to being rather disappointed at
the first sight, but after seeing it from the
American side and then from the Canadian
side the wonderand grandeur of it gradually grows
upon one. It is a most impressive sight to see the
great rush of waters, a sight not easily forgotten.
The Falls are formed by the Niagara River
flowing northward from Lake Erie to Lake
Ontario, and separating the State of New York
from the province of Ontario in Canada. The
river after leaving Lake Erie divides and passes
round Grand Island. It then broadens and
assumes the tranquility of a lake, until the
commencement of the rapids, where it suddenly
narrows and makes a descent of 52 feet in one
mile, before its hurried waters are pre-

cipitated over a lofty chasm, forming
falls of unequalled grandeur. The breadth
of the river immediately before taking
the leap is 4750 feet, but the centre is occupied
by Goat Island, which rises about 40 feet above
the water, and is 1000 feet in breadth. The
distance between it and the American side is
1000 feet, and to the Canadian side about
double that distance ; but the verge line of the
fall is increased by its horse-shoe shape. The
height of the fall on the American side is 164
feet, and the Canadian fall about 150 feet.
Where the waters fall down it is about 1000 ft.
wide, but the river soon narrows, and the
waters rush for seven miles through a deep
ravine about 140 feet wide, with perpen-
dicular banks rising to a height of from 300 to
350 feet. From the American side anyone can
go down underneath the falls into what is called
the ' Cave of the Winds,' but everyone requires
waterproof overalls and a guide, and as the
journey down is attended with considerable
discomfort, it is scarcely worth the trouble. A
small steamer "called the ' Maid of the Mist '
sails close up to the bottom of the Falls, but
anyone can see it well enough from other points
without running any risks. The river is
crossed about 250 feet below the falls by a
suspension bridge, which was comparatively
new, the old bridge having been wrecked the
previous year. A mile and half further down

the river is crossed by two railway bridges quite
near to each other, and a glimpse of the Falls
can be had when crossing. The name Niagara
(thunder of waters) is the invention of an
Indian tribe.

We left Niagara next morning for Buffalo.
We went to the Fair which was going on, and
saw some very fine animals, both cattle and
horses. I saw a horse, ' Rufus ' (3986), my own
breeding. He won a prize that day of 600 dols.,
equal to £110. He was exhibited with four of
his progeny, and this was a family prize. He
was also first in his class, I saw a good three-
year-old horse, bred at Knocklearn, Corsock.
Bufialo is a very large and prosperous city. It
is the eleventh in population in the United
States. It is a port at the east end of Lake
Erie, at the mouth of Buflfalo River, and at the
head of Niagara River, which is here crossed by
a fine iron railroad bridge. The position of
Buffalo on the great water and railway channels
of communication between the west and east
gives it a commercial importance surpassed by
that of f u w other American cities. We remained
over night at a hotel near the station, where
the continual whistling and screeching of the
engines eflfectually kept us from sleeping, and I
declared it was the noisiest place I had ever
been in. We left Buflfalo next morning without
any regret, and passed Niagara Falls on our way
to London. We travelled through a very fine

I
I

During the afternoon we inspected his herd of
Galloways, and we were pleased to see so many very
good and well-bred animals so far removed from
their native home. Mr M'Crae has great credit
with his herd. No man in Canada has done
more than he to raise the general excellency of
the breed, both for beef and crossing purposes,
and the number of prizes he gains at the
different fairs show that he is a skilful manager,
but the Galloways are hardy, and are good at
' rustling ' e\ en on inferior keep. They seem to
suit any soil or any climate. Next day we
drove to Mr Sowerby's farm, and saw some of
his Clydesdale horses. Some of the best were
away at the Fairs. His stables are most con-
venient and suitable for horse keeping. We
afterwards drove to Guelph, which is si* uated in
a fine agricultural district on an elevation on the
river Speed. Abundant water power is pro-
vided for flour mills, saw mills, and vroollen
mills. There are also breweries and tanneries.
We afterwards went to visit the Ontario Agricul-
tural College and Experimental Farm, situated
about amile from Guelph. This College is kept up
by the revenue of Ontario. Th e nett sum voted for
all departments by the Legislature in 1888 was
39,456 dols. or nearly £7800, which puts to
shame the sum of £6000 which our Home
Government gives for Dairy and Agricultural
Education for both England and Scotland. The
average number of students attending the

college is from 110 to 140. They generally
attend two years, but some go on for three in
order to qualify for the degree B.S.A. (Bachelor
of the Science of Agriculture.) There are nine
Professors or instructors. The objects of the
institution are as follows : — First, to give a
thorough training in the practice and theory of
busbandiy to young men of the Province
engaged in agricultural or horticultural pursuits,
or intending to engage in such ; and second, to
conduct experiments tending to the solution of
questions of material interest to the agricul-
turists of the Province, and publish the results
from time to time. We were met by Mr James
Mills, the President, and were handed over to
the care of those gentlemen in whose depart-
ments we were most interested — viz., Mr
Thomas Shaw, Professor of Agriculture, and Mr
J. W. Robertson, Professor of Dairy
Husbandry. The first named is superintendent
of the farm and experiments, and the last
named is superintendent of the creamery and
experimental dairy. The farm consists of 550
acres, about 400 acres of which are cleared. It
is composed of almost every variety of soil, and
hence it is well suited for growing all kinds of
crops, and for stock-raising as well. A sad
calamity befel the College last year in Novem-
ber. A fire, the work of an incendiary,
took place, and all the barns and
stables were completely burned down,

and all the feeding experiments were
delayed for twelve months. When we visited it
on the 14th September we found the buildings
just about finished, and all connected with the
College were looking forward hopefully to good
work being done during the next twelve months.
We drove round the farm with Mr Shaw and
Mr Robertson, and saw many things worth
seeing. I was particularly interested in the
creamery, which is personally conducted by
Professor Robertson, who is a great authority on
all matters connected with dairying. We were
also much interested in the com crop, which was
being cut at the time we saw it, and transported
to the barn, where it was passed through a
cutter, and put into a silo to make ensilage. It
is said to be capital feeding for cattle. The com
crop was most luxuriant. A man on horse-
back would be hidden amongst it. After
being hospitably entertained we left with the
feeling that it is a wise thing for the Govern-
ment of Ontario to have such an institution
where the young men who intend to follow
farming can obtain a practical training under
such able teachers, so that their future farming
will result in success. We left Guelph in the
aftemtjon, and arrived at Toronto about nine
o'clock, and went to Mr Thomson's house.
Next evening, the 15th, we left for Ottawa,
which we reached in the morning. We spent
the most of the day in seeing the Central

Experimontal Farm in company with the Hon.
Mr Carling, Minister of Agriculture, and
Professor Saunders, Director of the Dominion
Experimental "^Fatms. There are now five
Experimental Farms— one at Ottawa, to serve
for both Ontario and Quebec, and called the
Central Farm ; one in the Maritime Provinces,
one in the North West Territories, and one in
British Columbia. The objects aimed at in
starting these farms were as follows : — ' To con-
duct and verify improvements designed to test
the relative value for all purposes of diflFerent
breeds of stocl^ and their adaptability to the
varying climatic or other conditions which
prevail in the several Provinces and in the
North West Territories ; to test the
merits, hardiness, and adaptability of new
or untried varieties of wheat or other cereals,
and of field crops, grasses and forage plants,
fruits, vegetables ; and trees, conduct experi-
ments in the planting o* trees for timber and
shelter ; examine and investigate the diseases
of domestic animals, also of cultivated plants
and trees, and ^generally to conduct -any other
experiments and researches bearing upon the
Agricultural industry of Canada. We were very
much interested in what we saw of the experi-
ments being carried on, and ^jery good results
may be expected fromT;hem, which will be most
valuable to all the agriculturists in Canada, and
will help to make farming both -profitable and

i> '

successful. Alrpftdy a new variety of wheat has
been introduced, which ripens ten days earlier
than the common sorts. It is called Ladoga
wheat, and was brought originally from Russia.
These and ocher things are what are being done
to help the farmer, and I am sure that under
the able guidance of the Minister of Agriculture,
and the practical direction of Professor Saunders,
these experimental farms will continvie to be a
great success. Part of the afternoon we spent
in seeing Ottawa and the Parliament buildings.
Qttawa is the capital of Canada, the seat of the
Supreme Court, and the residence of the
Governor-General. It is picturesquely situated
at the junction of Rideau River with the
Ottawa. The Chandiere Falls, which here
interrupt the navigation of the river, afford
water power for a host of saw mills. We went
down and saw the mills. It was interesting to
watch how methodic lly everything was done
from the time the logs were separated on the
river and sent to different saw mills until the
boards were sawn and squared ready for
transportation to any part of the globe. Vast
quantities of lumber are floated down the
Ottawa River, and the lumbering industry mus,t
be an important one to Ottawa, We dined with
the Hon, Mr Carling, at his Club, and met some
other gentlemen connected with the Govern-
ment. We left Qttawa by last train,
and took sleepers for Toronto, where we arrived

in the morninif. Wo spent the day at the
Toronto Fair, which is the most important fair
in Canada. All the different animals that have
taken prizes at the local shows come together
here to try conclusions with each other, so you
are sure to see. some very tine animals. We
saw some good Galloway and Ayrshire cattle,
also some excellent Clydesdales. Next forenoon
we left Toronto fcr Owen Sound, a port on the
Georgian Bay, where the Canadian Pacific
steamships start for Port Arthur. Went on
board the steamer 'Alberta,' sailed through
Lake Huron, and passed through the Soo Canal
at Sault Ste Marie into Lake Superior. Next
day we experienced a very bad storm, and the
ship being lightly loaded she tossed very badly.
Once when a >» a\ e struck her x ery heavily some
of the passengers rushed on deck thinking she
was going to sink. The most of thi- passengers
as well as the stewards were sick ; one morning no
breakfast could be bad, and the only excite: aent was
hearing the smash of crockery, when the ship gave
an extra lurch. The ship had to run for shelter
until the storm passed. In consequence of this
detention we were twelve hours late when we
reached Port Arthur, and had other twelve
hours to wait for the cars. We left Port
Arthur at 2,30 afternoon, and got to Winnipeg
at noon next day, Sept. 22d. I was so com-
pletely knocked up that I Wv-at to bed
immediately and had the doctor to see me. C

[

the 25th T began to feel a little better, and next
day I got out of bed and had a short walk and
breathed the fresh air, which did me so much
good that next day again I felt so well that we
left Winnipeg at 2 o'clock afternoon for
Burnside St., about 60 miles further West.

On account of my illness I did not see so
much of Winnipeg as I 'vould have liked.
Winnipeg is the capital of the Province of
Manitoba, with a population of 25,000. It is
now a rising: and prosperous city, and has got
over the disastrous results of the ' Boom ' which
took place in 1882-83. At that time an enormous
rise in values took place, and the speculation
was of the wildest ; and the collapse that
followed brought down almost all the business
men of the city. Winnipeg was formerly
known a.j Fort Garry. It is situated at the
junction of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers,
both navigable for steamboats. It was for many
years the chief post of the Hudson Bay Company.
Manitoba now commands a vast trade to the
north and west, being at the eastern edge of the
prairies, which run for a thousand miles to the
Rocky Mountains. It has now some handsome
buildings, and the main street, which is 132 feet
wide, and block paved for a mile, is stated
to be one of the best streets in Canada.
Winnipeg is now an important railway centre^
It is on the main line of the Canadian Pacific
Railway, extending from Montreal to Van-

couver, which 1 is Hve brancheH out from it—
the St. Paul, Minnoapolis ; Manitoba Railway
oonnect with St. Paul, MinuoupoliH, and Chicago.
Tuio railwt v<^ompany is building on Main Streeta
tine station, which will help to raise the value of
property. Two of my friendH, while I was laid
up, employed their time in buying two blocks
of buildings nearly opposite the new station,
and they oontidently expect to realise a hand-
some profit in a few years. After leaving
Winnipeg the country wo passed through
seemed as level as a billiard table, but there is
really 100 ft. of ascent from Winnipeg to
Portage la Prairie. A belt of land round
Winnipeg, extending to Poplar Point, is almost
unoccupied, being mostly in the hands of
speculators, who will not sell at market prices.
After passing High Bluff, and on past Portage
la Prairie, the land is all settled, and large »nd
well-cuitivated farms are seen on every side.
We left the ^ars at Bumside Station and drove
to Mr Kenneth Mackenzie's house, where we
remained for two days, and Mr Mackenzie
drove us uii round the country, and we saw
some of the finest wheat land in Manitoba. A
large tract of land, extenaing from High Bluff
to Bumside Station, and away north to Mani-
toba Lake, is unequalled for wheat growing. I
saw a field where nineteen crops of wheat had
been grown without any manure, and only one
ploughing each year, and the last crop was as

r N

: '

good as the first. But after a field has been
cropped with wheat for several years it is a
great help to summer fallow it. This helps to
clean and rest it, and the next crop is largely
increased. The wheat land here will average
from 25 to 30 bushels per acre, according to the
season, and after summer fallowing, and a good
season, it may get up to 40 bushels. This last
season the crop was very short all over the
country owing to the drought. The yield of
bushels per acre for Manitoba for 1889 is given
— Wheat, 12 '4 bushels ; oats, 16 "8 ; barley,
13 "6 ; potatoes, 119 bushels; hay, 1'04 tons;
while the average for five years ending 1887 is
as follows: — Wheat, 20 t) ; oats, 33 7; barley,
25*8 ; potatoes, 205 bushels ; hay, 1'53 tons.
But in the year 1887, by itself being a good season,
the average is much higher — Wheat, 27 '9 ; oats,
46*2 ; barley, 36 "3. The crops this year are
said to be the smallest in the history of the
province, but fortunately they were all well
secured. Some of the wheat crops we saw stand-
ing waiting to be thrashed seemed to be a full
average, but the crops in this district of Mani-
toba sufier less from the weather changes than
many other districts. Ltind can be bought here
for about 20 dols. per acre — that is good land,
and cropped, with suitable buildings. When
out driving with Mr Mackenzie we intended
calling on Mr David Livingstone, who has a
nice farm at High Bluff, but we met his man —

Adam Thomson, from Kirk pa trick-Durham —
driving a team, who told us he had left for
Winnipeg that morning to meet his sister, so we
did not go further. VVe called at Portage la
Prairie, which is situated on the Assiniboine
River. Population over 4000. It is a rising
place. Being the market town of a rich and
populous district it has large grain elevators,
flouring mills, and other industr-s. The
Manitoba and North- Western Railway has a
branch from here extending 180 miles north-
west towards Prince Albert, with branches to
Rapid City and Shell River. We were taken
to see two Clydesdale horses well-known by
name in this country — ' Bounding Willow ' and
' Granite City.' W^e afterwards returned to
Burnside, going by a different road in order to
see some new country. The farms are large,
and the farm houses look cheerful and pros-
perous, as if the times had been good. Though
the wheat is low in price at [iresent, the farmers
have taken to rearing cattle, which has paid
well with the present high prices for stores. A
good many store cattle have been sent from
Manitoba to this country, and sold here at
prices that must pay the breeder. Mr R. Mac-
kenzie, who was our host for two days, we
found a most energetic, intelligent man. He
was one of the first settlers in that part of the
country, and he is now owner of many farms,
and is a member of the Manitoba Legislature.

He and his wife came over twenty years ago, and
settled on the very place where they still live —
by the side of a creek. The trail from St. Paul
to the north-west came right past his house and
through the creek, and hundreds and hundreds
of settlers came along this trail, and they always
camped across the creek, being common land.
Mr Mackenzie once saw five hundred waggons
camped there at one time. They often ran
short of provisions, but they generally got
supplied at Bumside Farm, and though some of
them could not pay at the time they always
paid, though it was years after, and Mr Mac-
kenzie, in all these years, said he did not lose ten
shillings. We left next day with great reluc-
tance, having receix ed so much kindness from
both Mr and Mrs Mackenzie ; but timt was
passing, and we could not delay. We took the
cars at 4,12 p.m., but we did not see much of
the country as it was soon dark. We tt)ok
sleepers for the night. During the night we
passed Brandon, which is a rising place, said to
be the largest grain market in Manitoba. It
is the centre of an extensive and well settled
country. The Assiniboine River is crossed by
an iron bridge before Brandon is reached. W^e
also pass Indian Head, near the centre of the
famous Bell farm, embracing 100 square miles.
The furrows on this farm are usually ploughed
four miles long, and to plough one furrow out-
ward, and another returning, is a half-day's

work for a man and team. We did not see this
with our own eyes, but we believe it to be true-
We also passed Regina during the early morning.
It is the capital of the north-west territories,
and is the distributing point for a large country
both north and south. The Lieutenant-
Governor has his residence here, and the
Executive Council their meetings. It is also
the headquarters of the mounted police, a well-
regulated military force about 1000 strong,
stationed throughout the north-west at the
expense of the Dominion, to keep order among
the Indians, and to prevent the selling of liquor
forbidden by law in the territories. Regina is
the centre of th-^ largest block of wheat land in
the north-west ; so it is a flourishiug town. In
the morning when we got up we found we were
travelling through miles and miles of rolling
prairie, some of it blackened and desolate
looking, the grass having been burned by
prairie fires ; very likely set on fire by a spark
from the engine. Some places we saw a broad
band of furrows ploughed near the railway
track to prevent the fire from spreading. Some
of the land was very worthless, and we saw
some salt lakes, all bitter. As we went along
we saw some coyotes, or prairie wolves, running
about, also a lot of gophers — small animals who
burrow themselves in sand holes as the train
goes along. Near the Old Wives' Lakes we
saw old bufialo trails, and the level prairie was

-m

scarred and pitted by the buffalo 'wallows.'
At Swift Current Station we bought some
polished buffalo horns from the Indian squaws.
They always attend when the trains are in
They gather them on the prairies. We after-
wards saw hundreds and hundreds of tons of
buffalo bones ptrewn over the prairies, where
they had been shot by the Indians. My friend
looked at them with a commercial eye, and we
may yet hear of them being landed at Dal-
beattie. At Dunmoro a branch of the railway
goes off to Lethbridge— 110 miles— where there
are coal mines. The town is supported by the
cattle ranches, and farming is canned on suc-
cessfully in the vicinity. The South Saskat-
chewan is crossed by a fine steel bridge before
we arrive at Medicine Hat There we saw a
fine large grizzly bear, 16 months old, chained.
We had arranged with Sir John Lister Kaye—
to whom I had a letter of introduction— to
meet him at Calgary, and go from there to look
at one of his farms ; but while travelling a'ono-
the conductor told us his car had been attached
to the train. That is the way he tra\ els from
one farm to another. We went aboard his
car to see him, and as we found he had to step
off at Gleichen we removed our luggage to his
car and slept in it when we got to that place.

Oct. 1. — After breakfast we drove with Sir
John L. Kaye and his Secretary to one of his
farms — Namaka, 11 miles from Gleichen. There

-Jfi

we saw some good breeding mares and a Clydes-
dale horse. The farm buildings are substantial
and commodious. A new kind of wind-mill
has been erected lately to pump water ; it is
also used to grind corn and out hay. By a
simple contrivance when it blows a gale it can be
thrown out of gear. We drove a good long way
over the prairie to see the teams ploughing up
new prairie land. There were fourteen teams
all double-furrow ploughs, with three or four
horses in them. The furrows were one mile in
length, and the ploughs were doing very good
work. We drove further on to see new shelters
provided for both cattle and sheep during winter.
We did not see the cattle, as they were still
away at their summer grazing, but 500 will
be wintered on this farm, the hay being plenti-
ful. 2000 sheep will also be wintered ; we saw
them, all ewe lambs, a Merino cross, on
another part of the farm. Sir John L. Kaye
manages for a London Company. They have
eleven farms, each 10,000 acres, at different
points along the line, bought from the Railway
Coy. They have 90 teams on the different
farms, and will have about 500 cattle and 2000
sheep at each farm. 18,000 sheep were already
bought at the time we were there. Being an
exceptionally dry season the crops had not been
80 good as usual. The turnips were a failure,
owing to the want of rain. They get the
Indians to thin and weed them, and also to work

lii

at the hay. We saw some of them forking hay
oflf a waggon. The Indians are fond of money,
and they buy rifles and finery for themselves.
We would drive 36 miles before we got back to
Gleichen, but the prairie air is so pure and
bracing that one does not feel a bit fatigued.
We went to sleep again in Sir John Kaye's
car, and awoke up in the morning to find
ourselves at Calgary. This is a rising and
prosperous place, is the capital of Alberta,
and the most important town between Bran-
don and Vancouver. It is the centre of
the great ranching country, and is the chief
source of supply for the mining districts in the
mountains beyond. The demand for town lots
and lands has increased to an extraordinary
extent during the last few months, and Calgary
promises in the near future to be one of the
largest trading towns in the north-west. It is
situated near the junction of the Bow and
Elbow Rivers, within fine view of the Rockies,
and just ov ide the foot hills. As we were
anxious to see some of the best cattle and hors,
ranches, we hired two horses in a buckboarde
and a driver, who was supposed to know the
trails, and started at midday to drive away
down to the ranching country. We drove
along the old trail to Macleod, which is about
110 miles away. We passed through some
settled country at first, but we soon got into
the prairie land. We forded two rivers, but

with the dry season the water was very
low, and there was no difficulty in crossing.
The trails were also good, owing to the dry
weather. We shot four prairie chickens as W3
went along. We rested the horses an hour
and had supper at Sheep Creek. We started
again at 7 o'clock and drove in the moonlight to
High River, where we stopped for the night,
having forded the river immediately before
arriving. Next morning we started at 7.30, and
drove a long way through the prairie, and shot
another chicken. My friend fired at a coyote,
and struck it, but was too far away to kill it
with small shot. Got to Mosquito Creek
(Cochrane's Ranche) about 9 o'clock. Saw some
good Galloway cows and their calves. A small
herd of Galloways is kept here. They were
imported from Netherby and neighbourhood.
They thrive and do well on this ranche, and the
percentage of calves is higher than in any other
breed. Called at the house and saw Mrs Coch-
rane, who comes from the borders near Kelso.
Afterwards we drove to see a roundup of cattle,
but they were mostly cows and calves. They
were herded together by the cowboys on horse-
back. It would not be safe for any one on
foot to go among ranch cattle. We had dinner
with the cowboys. It consisted of well-cooked
beef and potatoes, pudding, and apple pie, and
good black tea ; so we fared not amiss. There
was another large roundup of beef cattle across

■

the river which we much wished to see. We
started to drive to where they were, but the
ground was uneven, and we had an accident to
our trap, and by the time we got the wheel
patched up it was going to be too late for seeing
the cattle, so we turned and started off to drive to
the Quorn Ranche. We had a long drive across
the prairie, and had a fine view of the Rocky
Mountains, which were about 40 or 50 miles
away. Their sharp-pointed peaks were white
with snow, and they looked imposing in the
distance. After we crossed the river we drove
eight or ten miles, and then found the
driver had missed the tr?il for Quorn Ranche,
and if we continued we would be benighted on
the prairie and left in darkness — not a very
pleasant prospect, so we decided to drive back
and ask for shelter at a house we had passed
about nine miles back. Here we found a
Scotchman — Duncan Macpherson — who gave us
a right hearty welcome. We found quite a
colony of Scotch people — a Major Eckford
(from Largs) and his son, a partner in the
ranche, also a ploughman and his wife (who did
the cooking) from near Thornhill. Next morn-
ing we found this a horse ranch. We saw some
good horses, and hundreds are bred on it. We
then started, and got on to the right trail, and
drove a long way across the prairies. We
passed through some very queer places. It was
like going down the side of a house into the

I-

bottom of the creek, i.nd going up the house
again Rt the other sidt, but the horses pulled
well, and we did not get into any mess. We
wondered how the Governor-General would
get (jn with his carriage and four horses going
through some of these queer places, as he was to
drive from Fort Macleod to Calgary, by way of
the Quorn Ranche, where we were going, I
saw a picture in the Graphic lately where he
and his company were depicted driving through
a deep creek with four horses, but he was well
attended by mounted police, so I suppose every
care would be taken to ensure his safety. As
we drove along we saw some coyotes running
about. When we got on the Quorn Ranche we
found it good ranching land, being well watered
and sheltered. We saw some good Irish mares
with foals. After we got to the house Mr
Martin drove us with two mules to see about
eighty Polled Angus heifers, two years old,
lately imported from Scotland. Theis was a
proportion of fine animals, but a great many
were shotts. They did not seem to thrive so
well as the Galloways we saw the day before.
We did not see the ranche cattle, as they were
too far away. 500 fat steers were to be shipped
to Glasgow shortly after we saw them. We
saw some good thorough-bred horses, a Norfolk
Punch, and a coaching horse. The Quorn
Ranche is a very large cne. It keeps about
8000 cattle and 1600 horses. It is one of the

beat in the country, and runs all the way to the
foothills of the Rockies. The snow does not
lie long. ' Shnoock, ' or warm wind, from the
Pacific Ocean, comes through some of the masses
of the Rocky Mountains, and strikes on this
ranche, and melts the snow. In olden times,
when the buffalo roamed at pleasure over the
prairie in countless numbers, they used to
winter on the low - lying ground by the
side of the river on this ranche, and no Indian
was aUowed to fire a gun for fear of frightening
them away. If the Indians wanted food one of
them had to creep in and shoot one with an
arrow as quietly as possible. After luncheon
we left the Quorn Ranche about three o'clock
and had a long drive into Calgary, arriving
there about seven. We had supper at the
Royal Hotel, and left Calgary at 1.20 in the
morning by the cars, and got to Banff Station
at 6.20 in the morning, and drove in the 'bus,
about two miles, to the Banff Springs Hotel.
My bedroom window overlooked the Bow
River, with its rapids, and the point where it is
joined by another river — the Spray. When I
looked out and saw this sight, with the moun-
tains away in the distance white with snow, and
the sun beginning to rise, and sending a red
glow over everything, I thought it the finest
sight I had ever seen. The Banff Hotel stands
on a pretty high elevation above the Bow River.
The mountains surround it on every side, and

thoy are well wooded up to the tops. The
Twin Mountains, near the hotel, in front, rise
up very abruptly, and their tops are white with
snow. Beyond the river and village rises the
Cascade Mountain, about 10,000 feet in height.
There are many other peaks appearing behind,
with snow lying in the nooks and crannies of
the rocks. The hotel is replete with every
comfort, and a visitor wiH be bad to please if he
is not satisfied with the comforts provided,
added to the beauty of the neighbourhood. In
the forenoon we walked two miles to see the
hot sulphur springs. One is in a grotto, and is
made suitable for bathing. The other spring
is out in the open in a large basin, also made
saitaole for bathing. The water bubbles up
fiom the bottom, and the temperature is about
92 degs. There are other hot springs near the
hotel, but the water from them is taken in a
pipe to the house, where baths can be had by
visitors more conveniently than going to the
springs. In the afternoon we went across the
river and walked to the top of Tunnel Moun-
tain. It is a very stiff climb, but I succeeded
in climbing up much better than I expected,
and it was a sure sign that I was well again.
The air amongst the mountains is very pure and
bracing, and one feels little or no fatigue. We
had a splendid view from the top of the moun-
tain — the Cascade Mountain right in front,
with its waterfall caused by the melted snow,

hence itH name ; further away is Peachee
Mountain, 10,000 feet ; also. Squaw Moun-
tain, beneath which lies the Vermilion LakeB.
We also saw rivers flowing rapidly through
narrow passes in the mountains. Next day we
got up early and walked to the Sulphur Springs,
where we had a bathe in the open basin. The
water is very buoyant. In the forenoon v/e
went to the Presbyterian Church, where the
organ was played by Miss J. Mollison, who also
sang asolo. After luncheon we drove about nine
miles to the Devil's Head Lake. It is sur-
rounded by high mountains, and is very deep.
Trout of extraordinary size are caught in it by
trolling at a depth of 200 feet. The trout are
often 40 lbs. in weight. During our drive to
the lake we passed through hundreds <>f acres
of timber burned by fires. It was a sad blot
on the beautiful scenery. The Dominion
Government have done, and are still d(nng, a
lot to improve the place, and make it attractive.
They have turned it into a National Park,
about 26 miles in length and 11 miles in breadth.
No part of the Rockies exhibit a greater variety
of scenery, and nowhere are so nmny good
points of view so accessible, since so many good
roads and bridle paths have been made.

Next forenoon (Oct. 7) Mr John Dyke,
Canadian Agent, Liverpool (who had joined us
at the Banff Hotel), Mr Biggar, and myself
went to call on Mr Stewart, Superintendent of

the National Park. Afterwards, attended by
Mr Connor, Park Ranger, we had a sail in a
.small steaniei several miles up the Bow River.
The wi. r is so pure and clear that the moun-
tains, with their white peaks, the clouds, and
the trees, were reflected in the water with so
much olearneHH that they could be better seen
in the water than by looking at them direct.
I never saw it anywhere else with so much
clearness. In the afternoon the same party
drove to Anthracite to see the coal mines there.
The coal is smokeless, and is more valuable
than soft coal. The mines have only been
worked since the railway was opened. They
have been sold lately to a London Company,
who will work them more extensively. There
are immense deposits of coal. One vein— called
the mammoth < t.n— is within a few feet of the
surface. We left Banflf Hotel early in the
morning by the train due at 6.20. When day-
light camo we found our.selves running through
the mountains, snow-capped and peaked to the
skies. At Laggan the railway leaves the Bow
River. Looking upward through the gap in
Bow Range, towards Bow Lake, and the huge
peak of Mount Hector, we have the first view
of the great glaciers. At Stephen— altitude,
5296 feet — is the summit of tha line passing
through tho Rocky Mountains. After passing
Hector Station the line runs through the
Wapta, or Kicking Horse Pass. The scenery

is now sublime and terrible. The line clings
to the mountain sids ; one wonders how it could
have been made at all. At Field we stop for
breakfast at the Mount Stephen House, which
is not far from the base of Mount Stephen.
The canyon rapidly deepens, until beyond
Palliser the mountain sides become vertical, ris-
ing straight up thousands of feet, and within an
easy stone's throw from wall to wall. With the
towering cliffs almost shutting out the sun-light,
and the roar of the river, and the noise of train
increased an hundredfold by the echoing walls,
the passage of this terrible gorge will never be
forgotten. The train suddenly emerges into
daylight at Golden, and the broad river seen
ahead is the Columbia. From Golden to
Donald the railway follows down the Columbia,
on the face of the lower bench of the Kocky
Mountains, the Selkirks all the way in full
view opposite. Leaving Donald the railway
crosses the Columbia to the base of the Selkirks.
Rogers' Pass, through which the railway runs,
is between two lines of snow-clad peaks, with
glaciers distinctly visible. After the line leaves
Selkirk Summit it makes its way westward by
a devious course. Far below, and many miles
away, can be traced the railway track, seeking
the bottom of the valley by a series of extra-
ordinary curves, doubling upon itself again and
again. Passing through a long snow shed, and
round a sharp curve, brings the train to the

Glacier House, right in front of the great glacier
of the Selkirks. The train stops here thirty
minutes for dinner at the hotel, which is a hand-
some structure, resembling a Swiss chalet, and
serves not only as a dining station for passing
trains, but affords a delightful stopping place
for tourists who wish to hunt or explore the
surrounding mountains and glaciers. Game is
very abundant throughout these lofty ranges.
Their summits are the home of the big horn
sheep and mountain goat, the latter almost
unknown southward of Canada. Bears can al-
ways be obtained. The train.continues its down-
ward course, and, following round the mountain
side, The Loop is soon reached, where the line
makes several startling turns and twists — first
crossing a valley, then doubling back upon
itself, it at last shoots down the valley parallel
with its former course. After passing Albert
Canyon Station the train runs suddenly along
the very brink of several remarkably deep
fissures in the solid rock, whose walls rise
straight up hundreds of feet on both sides. The
most striking of these canyons is the Albert,
where the river is seen 300 feet below the rail-
way, compressed into a boiling flume scarcely
twenty feet wide. The train stops here a few
minutes, and solidly built balconies enable
passengers to safely look into the boiling
cauldron below. At Revelstoke the line
follows along the Columbia River. It is

navigable from here southward for 200 miles.
Kootenay lake and valley are easily reached
from here. Lower down the Columbia River is
crossed by a bridge ha)f-a-mile long. The river
is much broader here than it was at Donald.
We skirt the great Shuswa Lakes, the centre
of one of the best sporting regions on the line.
Northward, within a day, caribou are abundant ;
and southward, about thirty miles, the deer
shooting is unequalled on the continent ; and on
the lakes there is famous sport in deep trolling
for trout. Kamloops is the principal town in
the Thompson River valley. The north fork
of the Thompson comes down from the moun-
tains 200 miles northward, and here joins the
main river, whence the name of the place,
which is an Indian word, meaning a river con-
fluence. It is a beautiful spot. The principal
industry round Kamloops will always be grazing,
since the hills are covered with most nutritious
'bunch-grass.' Agriculture and fruit raising
flourish wherever irrigation can be applied.
This is the supply point for a large ranching
and mineral region. Southwards, just below
Kamloops, the Thompson River widens out into
Kamloops Lake, a broad, beautiful, hill-girt
sheet of water, along the south shore of which
the railway runs some twenty miles. After
dark, looking out of the cars, we saw lights on
Thompson River, said to be Indians with lights
spearing salmon. This river is said to swarm

with salmon in the proper season. At Lytton
the canyon suddenly widens to admit the
Fraaer, the chief river of the province, which
comes down from the north between two great
lines of mountain peaks. The railway now
enters the canyon of the united rivers, and the
scene becomes even wilder than before. Six
miles below Lytton the line crosses the Eraser
by a steel cantilever bridge. The line now
follows the right hand side of the canyon, with
the river surging and swirling far below. We
had breakfast at North Bend Hotel, a great
stopping place for tourists. At Boston Bar,
four miles below, the principal canyon of the
Fraser River commences, and from here to
Yale (23 miles) the scenery is not intensely
interesting, but startling. The line, runs along,
and close to the river, often through short
tunnels. At Hope we saw some Chinese wash-
ing out gold in the Fraser River. At Hammond
we saw a Chinese camp. The Chinese work on
the railway. We saw some of them having
dinner. The train stopped close to the camp,
so we went out and saw them use their chop
sticks when eating rice. Below Hope the canyon
widens, and is soon succeeded by a broad level
valley with rich soil and heavy timber. Near
Harrison Station the Harrison E iver is crossed
just above its confluence with the Fraser. A few
miles beyond Nicomen, Mount Baker comes into
view on the left ; and miles away a beautiful

isolated cone, 13,000 feet above the railway
level, at the crossing of the Stave River, the
finest view of Mount Baker is seen. The
FrasT has now become a smooth but mighty
river. Immense trees are now frequent, and
their size is indicated by the enormous stumps
seen near the railway. The rivers and creeks
in British Columbia are swarming with fish —
salmon and trout. In the Fraser River at
certain seasons the whole river is full of salmon,
and a wonderful story is told of the salmon
overturning a coach which was crossing the
river at a time they were so numerous. I
could believe it, after seeing the number of fish
in one small pool close to the line. They were
in such numbers as to be literally swarming.
The canning of salmon is now a most important
industry in British Columbia. Last year (1888)
the value of the fisheries in British Columbia
was 5,159,695 dols. This season was also good
for fishing. An unusually large take of salmon
was got out of the Fraser River. The greater
part of British Columbia is covered with
timber, so the proportion of agricultural land
is small. There is some good arable land south
of the Fraser River, and on the Delta at its
mouth. The lumber trade is a source of great
profit to this State, the trees are so large
and well grown. There are a good number
of varieties, but the Douglas Pme seems to top
them all. We now come to New Westminster

junction, where a branch line goes off to New
Westminster, an important town at the mouth
of the Fraser River, about eight miles distant.
We pass Port Moody at the head of Burrard
Inlet, which for a time was the terminus of the
railway. We arrive at Vancouver City, the
Pacific terminus of the railway, at 2.15 p.m.
A steamer is awaiting the arrival of the train,
as many passengers go on direct to Victoria,
the capital of British Columbia, and situated at
the south side of Vancouver Island, about six or
seven hour's sail. We, however, step off. and
go to the Vancouver Hotel, which belongs to
the C.P.R. Vancouver is nearly 3000 miles
from Montreal. Its population when we were
there was said to be 15,000. The city has
grown very rapidly. I never saw a place being
built up so fast, and with such fine and sub-
stantial buildings. On March 1, 1886, the
present site of the city of Vancouver was an
unbroken forest. On April 16, 1886, the city
was incorporated, a mayor and alderman being
duly elected. On 5th May the C.P.R. Co. first
put their property in the market, which was
eagerly sought for. Great improvements were
made during the next two months, but they
were nearly all obliterated by the fire of the
13th of June following, which swept all the
houses but two or three out of existence. All
suffered great loss, and many were rendered
penniless, but the citizens were equal to the

it V

occasion, and by four o'clock the following
morning lumber was being hauled in to rebuild
the city, and the motto nil desperaudum was
adopted, witl> a result never prev'-^j^lv sur-
passed, if ever equalled, in any c ," .. the
continent, when we consider its grow i j well
as the substantial character of the improse-
ments. The first train reached the City May
23d, 1887, and the first steamer from Hong
Kong the following month. Vancouver is
beautifully situated on Burrard Inlet, and the
situation is most perfect as regards picturesque-
ness, natural drainage, harbour facilities, and
commercial advantages. The water supply is
brought across the Inlet in peculiar shaped pipes
from a mountain stream opposite. There is a
regular stean.....p service to China and Japan,
to Victoria, San Francisco, Alaska, and Puget
Sound Ports.

The distanco from Liverpool to Yokohama,

via Quebec C.P.R. aim Vancouver, U 9946 miles,

Liverpool to Yokohama, via New York and San

1< rancisco, is 11,151 „

A saving of 1205 ,,

Liverpool to Hong Kong, via Quebec C.P.R,

and Vancouver 11.548 miles,

Liverpool to Hong Kong, via New York and

San Francisco 12,753 „

A saving of . . . , 1205 „

The saving of time and distance is considerable,
and is likely to throw more of the China and
Japan trade over the Canadian Pacific Railway
by way of Vancouver. We saw some Scotch

friends in Vancouver, and they were glad to see
anyone from the old country. We, however,
found Scotchmen everywhere, and if they are
steady and persevering there is no fear of their
success.

Next day we made enquiries as to the quickest
route to San Francisco, and we found a steamer
sailed on Friday from Victoria direct to 'Frisco,
and as we would arrive at laan Francisco
a day sooner than by the overland route by
Tacoma and Portland we decided to go by sea.
We left Vancouver at 3 p.m. in the daily
steamer 'Islander' for Victoria. We left
Vancouver with some regret — parted company
with Mr John Dyke, who had been our com-
panion for some time, and we could have stayed
longer at the hotel, it was so comfortable. We
arrived at Victoria about 8 o'clock, and went
t-j the Driard Hotel. Next forenoon we drove
round the city and through the New Park.
Victoria has a population of 14,000. It is a
very nice city, and well built. It is close to one
of the inlets of the sea. The climate is good,
dry, and bracing, and no extremes of temper-
ature. There is not much agricultural land in
the island, it is all so well wooded. We saw
some very fine trees. Fruit grows well. We
met some friends, and they saw us off at 1 p.m.
by the steamship ' City of Prublo,' bound direct
for San Francisco.

Perhaps it will be as well at this stage, before
we leave Canada, to give some idea of the
climate, which is so important a factor in all
matters relating to the prosperity of the country,
and also of the resources and future capabilities
of the Dominion of Canada. Canada comprises
an area of about 3,500,000 square miles, which,
in superficial extent, is nearly equal to the whole
of Europe. The variations of the Canadian
climate are less than in many countries of smaller
extent. Canada, as a whole, has much greater
heat in summer, and a much lower temperature
in winter, than in European latitudes. The
severity of the winter, aj tested by the ther-
mometer, leads to a very exaggerated impression
of Canadian experiences. Owing to the dry,
clear, bracing atmosphere which generally pre-
vails, the sense of discomfort produced by the
east winds and damp fogs of English winters
suggests an idea of cold such as is rarely thought
of in Canada. Throughout the greater part of
the winter season in Canada the sky is bright
and clear, and the weather thoroughly enjoyable.
Open sleighs are in use by all. Snow accord-
ingly brings with it no such ideas of discomfort
as are associated with it in England, while by
the farmer it is hailed as altogether beneficial.
In the Province of Quebec the snow begins to
lie early in November, In Ontario it is fully a
month later, and it differs correspondingly in
various localities throughout the Dominion.

Everywhere the appearance of snow is hailed as
beneficial. It protects the wheat sown in
autumn from the frost, affords facilities to the
farmer for bringing his produce to market, aids
the lumberer to bring the fruits of his labour
in the forest to suitable points for transport by
water with the spring freshets, and so con-
tributes alike to business and pleasure. January
and February are the coldest months of the
year. Throughout the whole of Canada steady
sleighing is reckoned upon during these months.
In Quebec and Manitoba a longer period for
sleighing can be relied on. The Canadian
climate is marked by the striking contrast of
two seasons — summer and winter — bringing
with them alterations pf fruitful la 'Our, and of
repose, intermingled with profitable industry
and pleasure. The frosts of spring and autumn,
not those of winter, are what the Canadian
farmer learns to regard with any dread, and
this is still more true in reference to the
Canadian fruit grower. The soil and climate of
Canada are such that the country produces a
much greater variety of grains, roots, and fruits
than what is usually grown in Great Britain or
Ireland. The wild fruits abound in great
variety throughout many districts. The culti-
vated land is now very extensive in Canada,
though the wheat land is being curtailed in the
older provinces, where the breeding and rearing
of stock — especially sheep— has been found to

be more profitable. The wheat area in Manitoba
and the north-west provinces is being widely
extended, there is still so much good prairie
land to be broken up and settled ; but even in
Manitoba, owing to the low price of wheat,
cattle raising is being extensively carried on.
The export of cattle and sheep from the St.
Lawrence is larger this year than it has ever
been.

1888— Cattle 61,0&2.

1889— Cattle, 85,896.

sv,

incp,

45,861.

Sheep, 58,884.

About 14,000 of the cattle would be sold as store
cattle for feeding on, for which there was a
great demand in this country. A fi'eat pro-
portion of the cattle came from the ranches
in Alberta, and also from the wheat farms in
Manitoba. The cattle we saw in Manitoba had
a good deal of the shorthorn cross in them,
while those in Alberta showed more of the
Hereford, evident from their white faces, A
good many other crosses are being tried, but on
a smaller scale. When sailing up the St.
Lawrence River we met several boats full of
cattle, with large bales of hay piled on deck to
feed the cattle during the voyage across. The
boats we saw were going at a good speed.
There are arrangements being made at present
to make shipments from Chicago via Mon-
treal, direct to this country, of grain of all
kinds, fruits, sheep, horses, and all
agricultural products. Timber is one of the

greatest sources of wealth in Canada. The
forests abound in fine wood adapted to almost
every variety of useful or ornamental work.
Large quantities of white and red pine are
annually exported to the United States and
Europe. One of the groat sights in sailing up
the St. Lawrence Kiver — a sight we were
fortunate to see — is a great raft of timber,
sometimes consisting of 160,000 cubic feet bound
together, and like a floating village, with its
shanties, its blazing fires (securely kindled on
an earthen hearth), and its banners streaming
in gala fashion as it glides along. Some people
spend their holiday in floating down the river
on one of these mighty rafts, and a very pleasant
time it is said to be. It may take weeks to
float down and land the raft safely in one of the
timber booms at Quebec. Furs are another
source of wealth to Canada, though not so large
as formerly ; but there is still a vast extent of
unoccupied territory away north of Hudson Bay
and Alaska. The minerals of Canada are
another great source of wealth, and since the
railways have opened up the country the
mineral resources are being fully disclosed and
turned to account. The fishing industry must
not be left out. In 1888 the value cf the
fisheries amounted to 17,418,750 dols., and the
deep sea fisheries are being further developed.
You will thus see that the resources of the
Dominion of Canada, being so valuable and so

Taried, she will become in a short time ft great
and wealthy country, and bo able to compete
against the world. The opening of the
Canadian Pacific Railway three years ago from
ocean to ocean gave a groat i.npetus to all the
trades and industries of Canada. The making
of this railway was an engineering feat un-
equalled in the history of railways. You can
now ride for 3000 miles ahead without stop or
break, and on cars noted for their superior
comfort, and you will see varieties of scenery
not to be seen in any other country. This rail-
way serves as a connecting link between the
older provinces and the new ; and it is doing
more than anything else to unite this vast
dominion. It brings its separate peoples and
provinces together, and it has opened up a new
field hitherto unnkown and unexplored, which
will occupy the energy and enterprise of the
Canadians for years to come. It is wonderful
to see how quickly the good land everywhere
near the railway is being taksn up and settled,
and we see rising and prosperous cities and
towns where a few years ago it was the haunt
of the buiTalo and other wild animals. Now, the
varieties of soil and climate between the
Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans are so different
that ^iiiyone can find a climate or style of farm-
'•^g to suit himself — either on a wheat farm in
Manitoba or north-west territories, or a ranch-
ing farm in Alberta, or a fruit-growing farm in

British Columbia. I would not advisc any one
to go to Canada if he wero contented and doing
well at home ; but if he be not succeeding up to
his expectations then I would advise a man
with health and energy to go, as there are far
more openings than in the old country.
The land is cheap, and if a man is steady and
persevering, with ordinary intelligence, there is
little fear of his success. A man with a family
about grown up — especially of sons— is generally
the most successful of settlers. The education
in Canada is free, and is well managed ; and
with the railways and other means of communi-
cation opening up the country the disadvantages
of having no church or school is being largely
overcome. The Canadians are a loyal and con-
tented people. The position which Canada
now occupies as a dominion formed by a confedera-
tion of self-gover'ung provinces — united under a
Central Government, with its own Governor-
General, Cabinet Ministers, Senate, Parliament,
and Supreme Courts of Law, yet nevertheless
remaining an integral part of the British
Empire, and acknowledging the sovereignty of
the Queen — is unique in the history of nations,
and strikingly illustrates the adaptability of
British institutions to the novel requirements of
a free people. What Lord Duflferin said about
Canada in 1874, after an extensive tour through
the provinces, will hold good to-day — * Every-
where I have learned that the people are

satisfied— satisfied with their own individual
prospects and with the prospects of their
country ; satisfied with their Government and
the institutions under which they prosper ;
satisfied to be the subjects of the Queen ; and
satisfied to be members of the British Empire.'
Before leaving Victoria I would mention that
passengers coming by the Canadian Pacific
Railway, and intending to go the Alaska trip,
would join the steamer at Victoria. The Pacific
Coast Steamship Co. run steamers every fort-
night during the season, and thousands of
tourists have gone the trip in 1888, and more in
1889. The excursion fare is low — about 100
dols. from Victoria, and it includes everything
for about three weeks' tr" vel. Alaska lies away
to the north, and along the side of British
Columbia, and numerous islands abound along
the coast, and the scenery is grand. A guide
book thus describes it — 'All who visit it are
charmed ; all tell the same story of the match-
less grandeur of the trip, of the midnight sun,
of the placid waters, of the aurora borealis, of
the majestic mountains, of the inland seas, of
the mighty glaciers, of the thundering icebergs
plunging into the sea, of the wealth of fish,
timber, and minerals, of the queer customs of
the natives, of novelty and startling incidents
that may well make the trip the object of a life-
time. There is nothing like it. Without doubt
it is "the biggest show on earth." '

We left Victoria on Oct. 11, at 1 p.m., direct
for San Francisco. We had a fine view of the
island when sailing down the bay and through
the Strait of San Juan de Fuca. The Olympic
Mountains rise very high on the mainland.
Towards evening a heavy swell got up, caused
by a south-east wind, and the ship rolled con-
siderably. The next day the weather improved,
the sun shone out, and it was a beautiful
day. We saw four large whales. They spouted
up water like a fountain, and two jumped right
out of the water. A man said he had seen a
large shark, but we did not see it. The sea
birds followed the ship very closely to pick up
any food thrown out. The white snowy clouds
looked beautiful. The water of the Pacific
Ocean is a greeny colour — quite different from
the dark Atlantic. We thoroughly enjoyed the
day's sail. Next day was also fine and pleasant,
so the ship made a quick run, and arrived at
San Francisco about six o'clock, making the run
in 53 hours. As we passed into the harbour we
went through the Golden Gate — a strait about
five miles long, and averaging about one mile in
width. After having our luggage inspected and
passed, we took a 'bus to the Occidental
Hotel. Next morning, after arranging for
tickets by way of Denver and Chicago, to
Toronto, we called on Mr Balfour ; and in his
office we were introduced to Mr Williamson
from Liverpool. We had followed him round

all the way. He is M.P. for Kilmarnock
Burghs. We took the cable cars and went
down to the GoMen Gate Park. It is one of
the great attractions of the city. It consists of
1050 acres. It was once a shifting sand-dune.
It is now beautifully laid out with drives and
walks. It has fine forest trees, plants, and
flowers, and the grass turf is very close and
green. There is a rine conservatory, and a
place for holding concerts in the open air.
After seeing the Park we took the steam car
and went down to the beach, where we saw the
waves rolling in. They are very treacherous.
About every seventh wave comes up much
higher ; and if one is not quick the result
follows of wet feet. We went up to the Cliff
House to see the seals on the rocks, a short
distance from the shore. There are hundreds
of them, of all colours and sizes. They keep
up a constant deep growling, so they are some-
times called sea lions. They are one of the
sights of San Francisco. It is interesting to
watch them, especially when they leap into the
sea. We returned to the city by another way —
by a railway which runs round the cliflFs — and
we had a fine view of Golden Gate and the
harbour. San Francisco is a large and wealthy
city, with a population of about 300,000—60,000
being Chinese. It is situated on the end of a
peninsula, which has the Pacific Ocean on one
side and the Bay of San Francisco on the other.

It has a fine sheltered harbour, and has shipping
connections with all parts of the world. The
system of cable cars is very perfect. The cars
run up very steep streets with the utmost
safety. At one time the wealthy people lived
across the ferry at Oakland ; but now, since the
cable oars have come into general use, they
have fine houses built up on the highest hill-
hence its name, * Nob Hill. ' Away at the back
of the city we saw the sand hills being levelled.
I suppose this ground will be built upon some
day. After dinner we got a guide, who spoke
Chinese, to take us round to see the Chinese
quarter at night. It is the general fashion for
visitors to do this, as the customs and mode of
living of the Chinese are peculiar. We went to
the Temple, or Joss House, where they keep
the gods they worship. All the gods and
decorations come from China. We looked in at
some of the opium dens, but the atmosphere
was dense and heavy, and we did not remain
long. It is a sad sight to see some of the con-
firmed opium smokers, they are such wrecks.
W© also looked into the theatre, which was
crowded. The males sit on one side and the
females on the other. One of the actors who
was playing is a great favourite, and gets 6000
dols. a year. We went to the Curiosity Shop and
bought some Chinese things to take hon\e as
mementoes of Chinatown. A Chinaman, when
he dies, has his body sent back to China for

burial. He sets aside a sum to pay for the
transportation,

Oct 15. — Left San Francisco at 8 o'clock in
the morning and went across on the ferry to
Oakland Pier, where we took the cars for
Sacramento — not by the direct route, but round
about to see more of the country. After we
left Oakland we passed through a fine fruit
country. Grapes and poaches grow well, when
irrigation is applied. After leaving the fruit
country, we got amongst the round hills
where ranching is carried on, but to get winter
fodder for the cattle they grow wild oats, which
they cut before being ripe, and it makes capital
feeding for cattle. The tops of the hills are
ploughed, because they are flat, and the sides
are \ ery steep— an unusual sight. The grain is
planted in autumn before the snow falls. The
country around Stockton grows good wheat.
When it is being harvested a combined machine
is used, which cuts it, thrashes it, bags the
grain, and throws the straw back on the ground.
It requires a team of ten or twelve horses or
mules to work it. Sometimes it is propelled
by an engine. There is a flour mill at Stock-
ton, where natural gas is used for light. It is a
good agricultural country all the way along the
river to Sacramento, where we arrived at 2,30
p.m. Leaving our luggage at the depot we
took the ears into the city, and saw the State
Capitol and the Legislative Assembly Hall.

It is the capital of the State of California. We
went up the dome, and had a fine view of the
city. A good deal of fruit is sent away from
Sacramento. We saw them putting huge
blocks of ice on the tops of refrigei'ator cars,
where fruits and vegetables of all sorts and
kinds can be carried for long distances without
risk of spoiling. The American River joins the
Sacramento River at this point, and the river
becomes navigable for large steam boats. We
went aboard the express train for Ogden at
10.30, and took sleepers. We saw none of the
country until Reno, where we had breakfast.
The country from there to Elko (300 miles)
was a perfect desert — nothing but sand and
sage bushes. It was the most forh^rn and
dreary country I ever saw. It is said to extend
for 1500 miles, and is marked on the map as the
Great Desert. Along the sides of the rivers, or
creeks, where irrigation can be applied, there
are small patches of alfalfa, or sanfoin, which is
made into hay for cattle. If irrigated after
cutting it can be cut several times during a
season ; but the last season has been unusually
dry, and little water could be got ; and all the
lakes and holes that used to hold water were
quite dry. Some of the cattle we saw looked
Uiiserable objects — I suppose for the want of
water. We took sleepers again for the night,
and when we got up in the morning we found
ourselves near Ogden, where we had breakfast,

i I

F H

and changed cars for the Rio Grande Western
Railway for Utah. Ogden is in the State of
Utah, and is distant from San Francisco 896
miles. The country through which we passed —
from Reno to near Ogden — is in Nevada. We
left Ogden at 8.10 a.m. Its distance from
Denver is 771 miles. In about an hour we
sighted Salt Lake City— the home of the
Mormons. The train stopped five minutes, so
we only got a glimpse in passing of the Mormon
Temple, Tabernacle, and Assembly Hall. The
city is well built, and has trees growing along
the sides of the streets. A good deal of water
is used in the city for irrigating gardens, trees,
&c. The city has a prosperous look, and the
country around is well cultivated, and no one
could tell in passing that this was the home of
the Mormons — the possessors of a 'peculiar
creed ' and ' many wives. ' The population of
the city is said to approach 50,000. On the
west of the city lies the great Salt Lake, which
is salt like the sea. It has no outlet, and the
river Jordan runs into it. As we pass along we
see some good agricultural land. Some of it is
in grass, and large herds of cattle grazing. At
Battle Creek the land gets rougher and more
hilly — a good deal of sand and sage bushes.
We saw from the cars three large droves of
sheep evidently being removed from their
summer grazings to winter quarters. There are
no features of interest or beauty until we come

to Soldier Sumit, where we pass through the
first snow sheds on this line. At several places
they have shelter shields instead of sheds to
keep the snow from drifting on the line. The
railway line is narrow guage, but it is being
changed. We saw lots of men and horses busy
at different points cutting off the sharp curves
and widening the track. Near Castle Gate the
Price River runs down the valley, and the line
along the side of it. At Castle Gate the valley
narrows, and the mountains rise up almost
perpendicular on each side, hundreds of feet in
height, and the top is like the battlements of a
castle. The train stops for a few minutes, and
everyone is awed by the beauty and grandeur
of the scene. Further down the valley some
coal mines have been newly opened, and they
promise to be productive. The valley after
this opens out considerably, but the steep bluffs
stil! show on each side. Between Farnham and
Sunnyside the land becomes flat and undulating,
and has little or no vegetation. We passed over
Green River, and we took s eepers again. The
country between Green and Grand Rivers —
over a hundred miles in extent — is said to be a
billowy desert, so we did not miss much.
During the night we passed out of Utah into
Colorado at State Line. Beyond Montrose the
Black Canon is entered. At times the canon
narrows, but sometimes it widens out, and one
can see the steep cliffs that tower heavenward

two or three thousand feet. Currecanti Needle
is the most abrupt and isolated of these pin-
nacles. We now come to Gunnison, where we
stop for breakfast. From there we passed
through some fine country, until we began to
climb the mountain after passing Sargent, The
train was divided, and two engines put to each.
We were in the hind carriage of the last portion.
The line doubles again and again upon itself,
until there are three lines above one another
along the side of the mountain. We see the
first portion of the train slowly crawling
upwards, hundreds of feet above us. We
follow slowly, but surely, and watch the
ponderous engines gradually pulling us upwards,
and after passing through numerous snow sheds
we at last gain the summit of Marshall Pass,
10,890 feet in altitude. The view which is
seen from the summit is replete with grandeur
and beauty. The snow lies right from the line
to the top of the mountains. Mount Ouray
towers above the surrounding peaks. The air
is very rarified at this extremely high
point, and some people are affected by it.
After a short rest the trains are coupled together,
and we start down grade. The going down is
more exciting than the going up. The train
went round the curves at a good speed, with the
brakes well on, but the cars inclined out ; and,
looking down, you could see a sheer precipice
hundreds of feet right down to the river.

However, we got down safely, and there was a
sigh of relief when we reached the level.
After we pass Salida we enter the Grand
Canon of the Arkansas. The line clings to the
side of the rock, with the cliffs high at each
side. Where the cliffs rise highest— about 1000
feet high— it is called the Royal Gorge, and in
some parts the sun's rays never penetrate.
Some of the passengers went out on an open
car, which was attached to the train to enable
them to view the canon better. After this we
came to Canon City, and on to Pueblo, where
the train takes a turn in a northerly direction,
a distance of 120 miles from Denver. From
here Pike's Peak can be seen towering high
above all the other mountains— 14,000 feet in
height— with its sharp peak white with snow.
We passed Colorado Springs (a great health
resort) after dark, and arrived at Denver at
9 p.m.

We found Denver a rapidly rising city— alti-
tude 5300 feet. The population was said to be,
when we were there, 150,000 ; in 1888, 110,000 ;
in 1880, 35,000. The mean annual temperature
is 537 degs , and it is said to be the most
healthful city in America, the death-rate only
being 10 per 1000. We stopped at the Windsor
Hotel, and having an introduction to Mr Morse,
one of the proprietors, from the Rev. J. Gillespie,
we made ourselves known to him, and found
him a most intelligent and well-informed man ;

i !

indeed, I did not meet a gentleman during the
whole of my American trip in whom I was more
interested than Mr Morse, and he showed us
the greatest kindness during our stay in
Denver. He runs a farm of 10,000 acres in
connection with the hotel. It is a few miles
out of the city, and is called the Windsor Farm,
and seeing we were both interested in all
matters relating to agriculture he kindly took
us out to see his farm and stock. We found it
a most complete and well-managed farm. Over
100 dairy cows are kept to supply the Windsor
Hotel with milk and butter, and the surplus is
all sold in the city at good prices. Butter is
sold at 52 cents, per lb., and milk at 33 J^ cents,
per gallon, which are good prices ; but every-
thing is so carefully managed that there is a great
demand for both butter and milk. Mr Morse
can supply stedlized milk if required. 55 of the
dairy cows are pure-bred Holsteiii-Friesians, and
I became very much interested in the Advanced
Register, by means of which the milking
qualities of this breed are very much improved,
as no cow can be entered until she produces a
certain quantity of milk or butter, and the
quantity is very large. Mr Morse dishorns all his
cattle. He has a most ingenious contrivance for
holding them, by which they cannot possibly hurt
themselves. The horns are taken off in thirty
seconds, and in less than half-an-hour after-
wards they are quietly grazing. Mr Morse

also keeps a Hmall but select herd of Galloways,
mostly imported from well-known herds in
Scotland. The young cattlo bred on the farm
are extremely promising. . About 200 hogs
are kept to eat up the refuse from the
hotel, a -^ when fat they are killed, and the
whole hog is made into sausages, which are
famous, and are called the Windsor Farm
sausages. We watched the process of sausage
making with interest. There are also 120 hives
of bees kept, looked after and managed by a
German, who gets half the profit for remunera-
tion. Last year his share was 650 dols.
There are about twenty acres of the farm turned
into a vegetable garden. All the crops require
irrigation. We saw some splendid alfalfa hay
put up in large stacks. It can be cut several
times during the season when irrigated. Next
day we had a ride round the city in the cable
cars, and saw how fast it is being built up.
There are now some very fine public buildings
and private residences, and when all are
finished Denver will be a fine city. Colorado
is one of the finest States in America — famous
for its minerals, its equal climate, and the
large number of sheep and cattle raised in it.
With irrigation any kind o crop can be grown ;
and in this it very much resembles South
California, which has one of the finest climates
in the world.

V 1

Wo left Denver for Chicngo ut 8 p.m., and
took Hleopors. Next morning, when wo got
up, we were parsing Oxford, in Nebraska
State. When we got to M'Cook wo found the
tim' one hour foi-ward. The country in mostly
agricultural, and a largo quantity of Indian corn
is grown, but it is all fed to cattle and hogs.
We pasBi'd Hastings, a thri\ing and growing
town. After this the land improves, and is
better cultivated, and some trees and hedges
are being grown, which improves the appear-
ance of the country. We saw a thnishing
machine at work, drawn by twelve mules.
Passed Harrard. Still large fields of Indian corn,
some uncut and some in stook. The farm
houses here are larger and more prosperous
looking than they are in some parts of the
settled country. We saw large lots of cattle,
mostly . ws and young cattle. We saw plenty
of large hay stacks, which will be used for fodder
during winter. Passed Sutton, another rising
town, with large buildings. All the land we
passed through, until we came to Exeter, was
very flat, and had been prairie beforo beinr
ploughed up. Exett r is another new and
rapidly rising town. Here we saw some
unusually large and well-bred cattle. We
stopped twenty-five minutes at Lincoln for
luncheon. It is the capital of the State of
Nebraska, and is an important town. There is
a good cattle market, and large sales of pure-

bred CAt*^le tako \)l;*ce here. Nelirawka — of
which it is the capjlil — is a central State. The
greater part of Nebraska is a phiteau, and the
average height is 2312 feet above sea level.
The average rainfall along the Missouri is
40 inches a year ; in Western Nebra. ka it is
20 inches. Nebraska is exceptionally healthy,
especially for people of consumptive tendency.
This is owing to its elevation above the sea,
the dryness of the atmosphere, and the great
amount of ozone in it. The name Nebraska
signifies land of bropd rivers. Chief of all is
the Missouri, which flows in a t(,rtuous course
for 500 miles along its eastern boundary, and is
navigable for 2000 miles above Omaha, Next
in importance is the Platte, which flows through
the whole length from west to east, and falls
into the Missouri below Omaha. We passed
over the Platte River before we got to Omaha,
which is a very large and wealthy place. We
crossed the Missouri River between Omaha and
Pacific Junction, which is in the State of Iowa.
This State is bounded on the east by the
Mississippi River, and on the west by Missouri
and Big Sioux Rivers. It nas a very level
or undulating surface. Its mean height above
the sea is 926 feet. It is a fine agricultural
country, and well cultivated. In the production
of Indian corn it stands second, and of wheat
fifth, among the States of the Union. We saw
large lots of cattle of good quality ; also, herds

\f ■

of hogs feeding on the Indian com. We took
sleepers at Red Oak, and passed over the
Mississippi River about midnight after leaving
Burlington. We were now in the State of
Illinois. This State is very level, but the soil
is of great fertility, and much of it seemingly
unexhausted. A ridge of land to the south
end of the State, constituting the fruit district
of that district, is called * Egypt,' on account of
its never-failing fertility. The great crops of
Illinois are Indian corn, wheat, and hay, and
great attention is also given to the raising of
live stock. Next morning we got up at Aurora
and found the train an hour late. We reached
Chicago at 9 o'clock, and went to the Palmer
House, where we found lots of letters from home
awaiting us. We had not got any since leaving
Winnipeg, Chicago is a wonderful city.
Everything about it is done on the biggest
scale, and for wealth and importance it is second
to no city on the American Continent except
New York, so I will not begin to describe it.
In the forenoon we called at the Breeder's Gazette
office and found two Scotchmen there (Gal-
braiths), and had an interesting talk with them
and the editor, Mr Sanders. We went out by
the cars to Downer's Grove to call on General
Ducat, who keeps a small herd of Galloways.
They are well bred, and full of quality, and
seem to suit the district. He is going in for
sheep. We saw a lot of 300 ewes, well selected.

The land seems suitable for sheep rearing, being
dry and undulating. The General lives on his
own land, and it is well laid out and nicely
planted with trees, a good niany of them well
grown oaks. Next day we took the cable cars
to the Union Stockyards, where a market for
cattle, sheep, and hogs is held every day in
the week. We expected to see Mr John Clay
(of Clay, Robinson, & Co), but he was absent
from the city. To give you some idea of the
magnitude of the market I will give you the
numbers of Monday and Tuesday before we were
there on the Wednesdc»y, 23rd October.

Cattle.

Monday, 14,469

Tuesday, 9,000

Hogs. Sheep.

28,715 13,156
21,000 9,000

Week before Christmas, 45,306 176,480 32,374

During the past year (1889) the numbers of ani-
mals received at the Union Stockyards, Chicago,
were — Cattle, 3,040,000; hogs, 6,000,000;
sheep, 1,850,000; calves, 123,000; horses,
80,000. But when you see the large number of
cattle and hogs killed and passed through at
Armour & Co.'s and Swift & Co.'s packing and
tinning premises you do not wonder at the large
numbers of live stock sent to the Stockyarc s to
sell every day,, There is a very great difference
in the prices of the different kinds of cattle.
The well-bred corn-fed steers sell at 5 dols. to
5*25 dols., and Texan steers from 2*15 dols. to
3 dols. per 100 lbs. live weight, so it should be

the interest of every one to make the fat steers
as choice as possible. We went through
Armour & Co. 's killing premises, and saw the
expert fashion in which everything is done —
from the time the animal is killed until it is
hung up ready to be cut and made ready for
transportation to all parts of the world. In the
hog killing place every man engaged is very
expert. The man who sticks them did 9 in
30 seconds, and the work is carried through in
proportionate quickness until they arrive in the
freezing room. In the cattle killing place the
men are also verj' expert, but the place is over-
crowded, and the floor is saturated with blood,
so we did not stop long. To give you an idea
of the ' bigness ' of things in Chicago, attached
to the Palmer House Hotel there is a hair-
dressing and shaving establishment where 25
barbers are constantly at work from morning
to night. You hardly ever see an empty seat.
The fittings were said to have cost 40,000 dols.
Ve left Chicago at 3.35 p.m. by the Grand
Trunk for Toronto. We got our luggage ex-
amined and passed before leaving to save us
getting up at midnight when passing the State
Line into Canada. After leaving Chicago the
line runs through a small corner of Indiana
before it gets to the State of Michigan, through
which it runs until the line passes into Canada.
This State, being nearly surrounded by lakes,
has a coast line about 1600 miles in length. It

is a good wheat-producing State, the average
being higher than in any other State in the
Union. The average wheat crop all over the
United States will be low this year, probably
not more than 12 bushels per acre ; last year
(1888) it was 11 '1 bushels per acre. It grows
fin a apples and peaches, and the timber produce
is of superior quality. It is probable that
Michigan for many years to come will maintain
its precedence as a lumber producing State.
Of course, travelling through the night we saw
little of the country, and when we got up in
the morning we were travelling in Canada. My
friend went oflf at Guelph, but I went on to
Toronto, where I arrived about 10 o'clock.
Went down town, and finally arranged for
berths on the ' City of Paris,' which sailed from
New York to Liverpool on the 30th. Next
day I went and saw some friends from Castle-
Douglas. Having a day to spare I left at 5 p.m.
for Claremont to see the Graham Brothers, who
take out a lot of Clydesdale horses to Canada
every season. Next day I had a look round
the horses, and found them quite a superior
lot — good sizes, dark colours, and plenty of
quality, find just the thing to suit the Canadian
taste. One specially good two-year-old horse
was ' MacClaskie,' dam 'Kelpie,' grand-dam
an old mare ' Darling, ' still in my possession.
His sire Avas ' Macgregor. ' He was first as a
yearling at the Royal Show at Newcastle. Mr

R. Graham afterwards drove me to see Mr John
Miller, Brougham, an old Scotchman often over
in this country with the late Simon Beattie, and
whom I had promised to visit if possible, so I
got a very hearty welcome from him. Mr Miller
has a very good shorthorn herd, mostly de-
scended from the Sittyton herd, in Aberdeen,
lately sold to go to South America. The young
cattle were excellent, and will yet take prizes
in Canada. Mr Miller keeps a nice Hock of
Shropshire sheep, for which there is a great
demand at present, especially in the States.
There is going to be a great ' boom ' in sheep
in America. I saw in the Breeder's Gazette
last week "n extract from a Texas Live Stock
Journal — ' It is reported that heifers are being
traded for sheep even up in Jeff Davis' County.
A few years ago they traded sheep for chickens
in Eagle Pass. ' Mr Miller says nothing pays
him better than the sheep. Things have taken
a tui ii that way lately. Swedes grow well on
his farm. I saw them lifting a very fair crop.
I returned to Toronto that evening, and the
next day, being Sunday, we spent a quiet day
with Mr and Mrs Thomson and their family.
We stayed with them any time we were in
Toronto, and received the greatest kindness
and hospitality at their hands.

We left Toronto on Monday at 12 p.m.
direct for New York. The line runs within
sight of Lake Ontario all the way to St.

Catherine's. The land to Hamilton is well
cultivated, and a good many orchards are seen.
The country is well wooded, and the autumn
tints on the leaves were very fine. As the
train passed through one town I saw a house
being moved right up the centre of the street.
I suppose it is a common thing in America.
The line from St. Catherine's runs right to
Niagara, where our luggage was again inspected
and passed before we entered the United States.
We crossed the river too far down to get a
glimpse of the Falls. It soon became dark
after this, but we knew we were running close
by a canal from the names of the stations — Lock-
port, Middleport, Brockport, and Adam's Basin.
We stopped fully an hour at Rochester and had
supper. We took sleepers there, and when we
got up in the morning we were passing Tarry-
town, on the Hudson River. We were in time
to see a short bit of the beautiful scenery,
which extends all the way from Alban;, down the
Hudson River. We arrived in New York at the
central Station about seven o'clock, and went
to the Windsor Hotel, In the forenoon we
walked up the Fifth Avenue and saw some of
the splendid mansions built by the Vander-
bilts, Goulds, and other millionaires. Th'.s is
the most fashionable street in New York. We
afterwards walked through the Central Park.
Its area is 843 acres. It is nicely laid out with
drives and walks, and the trees and shrubs

i ■ i

ii i

grow luxuriantly. The grass is green and
smooth— more like English grass than any I
had seen. When we left the Park we took the
elevated railway down to the low end of Broad-
way, which is the oldest and longest street in
the city. Wall Street, which is now after
Lombard Street the most important haunt of
moneyed men in the world, has some very fine
banks and business offices ; indeed, New York
strikes one as being very substantially built.
Some of the .locks are very high— up to fifteen
stories. The two great public works of the
city are the Croton Aqueduct, which carries the
water supply to the city, and the suspensien
bridge spanning the East River, connecting
New York with Brooklyn. In the afternoon we
went to see the Brooklyn Bridge, and went over
on a car pulled by a cable, and walked back
over it. There are two lines for cars, two for
waggons or carriages, and one elevated footway
for pedestrians. It is nearly 2000 yards in
length. The towers— between which the central
span extends— are 277 feet above high water,
and rest upon a rock foundation 80 feet below
the surface of the river, and 40 feet below its
bed. We saw in the newspapers next day that
the people crossing the bridge had been counted
that day we were over, and the number from 12
o'clock Monday night to 12 o'clock Tuesday
night (twenty-four hours) was 110,114. There
is a fine view from the bridge of New York city

and Brooklyn ; also, of the harboui, and we saw
the large figure of Liberty, ith the hand
aloft, erected on a small island near the entrance
to the harbour. New York, the principal city
of the United States in point of wealth and
population, and, next to London, the most
important commercial and financial centre in the
world, lies mainly on Manhattan Island
between the Hudst-a River on the west and
the East River on the east. The population of
New York, including only Brooklyn and Jersey
City, will now be over 2,000,000.

Oct. 30. — After breakfast at 8 p.m. we left
the hotel in a cab, witli all (»ur luggage, for s.s.
' City of Paris,' Inman Line. When we arrived
at the wharf we found the usual bustle and
excitement consequent upon the starting of a
large ocean steams^ ip for England. We soon
had our luggage aboard, and taken to our
berths, so we were at liberty to watch the
passengers coming on bor d. Some came at the
very last minute, ev u after the signal was
given for removing the foot bridge, and some
steerage passengers, with their bedding and
bundles, arrived at this stage and delayed the
ship still longer. We got oflF, however, before
ten o'clock, steaming slowly until we were well
out of the harbour. As we left the ship's berth
we saw steamships belonging to other lines —
Cunard, White Star, Guion, Anchor, and
Hamburgh lines. The ships belonging to the

It !

}■

lasfc-named company are fat. sailers. Tlie
' Britannic ' and a Hamburg steamer left shortly
after the 'City of Paris.' Tlie former was
soon left behind, but the latter stuck pretty
close to U8 until after darkness set in, and we
did not see her in the morning. We passed
Sandy Hook at 11.50 a.m., and uhey count from
this point to Queenstown. We had now time
to look round and see what a large and well-
appointed ship she was. The ' City of Paris ' is
a ship of 10, 500 tons ; length, 580 feet ; breadth,
63| feet. Everything about the ship is fitted
up in the best style for the comfort and con-
venience of passengers. Tlie berths are lighted
by the electric light, and very well ventilated.
There being only 200 cabin passengers we were
by no means crowded. My friend and I had a
spacious berth, which usually holds four, so we
were very comfortable — a great contrast to the
' Vancouver. ' Among the passengers on board
were Sir Julian Goldsmid, Mr J. W. Mackay
(said to be the richest man in the world), and
the great Dr T. De Witt Talmage, the Brook-
lyn preacher, who was starting with his wife and
daughter for the Holy Land. The 'City of
Paris ' is so well equipped with engines that she
is one of the fastest steamers afloat, and she
may be appropriately called an ocean greyhound.
And now began a passage to England which
was to end the fastest on record. Favoured
with fine weather and clear moonlight nights,

and an absence of fog, and no delays, she
averaged about twenty miles an hour the whole
way. The weather being fine nearly every
passenger was on deck the most of the day.
We met a large steamer— the ' Adriatic ' — on
the Thursday. She lowered her flag as we
passed, "We also saw a I^rge sailing vessel, said
to be bound for the West Indies. About four
o'clock we met an Inman steamer— the ' City of
Chicago '—and both ships mounted their flags. The
steamers passed so close the passengers on both
ships waved handkerchiefs. Anything of this
kind causes a little excitement. The diflerent
lines of steamers are known by the colour
of their funnels. The Inman Line is black,
white band, and black top. Run up to noon
440 miles. Next day — weather line, no excite-
ment ; run 444 miles. Next day — weather fine,
ship steady, no fog ; run 451 miles. Next day —
weather fine, rather breezy, which caused the
ship to roll a little. Met two steamers— the
'City of New York' and the 'Teutonic'—
evidently racing, they were so close to each
other. Had service in the saloon, conducted
by Captain Watkins. Run 460 miles. Next
day — weather fine in forenoon ; a slight rain
during the afternoon. The ship rolled a little ;
the wind westerly. The City of Paris Gazette,
printed on board in mid Atlantic, issued to-day.
Run 454 miles. Another fine day. We sighted
the coast of Ireland in the forenoon. The wind

1 ■

ii'

■*

t i

blew very strong off the land. Wo nailod near
the coast, and sau :^; cm I lighthouses. About
4 pm. wo sigh ...I th' ;''.amtug from Queens-
town. She took some passengers, niiiils, and
telegrams on board. After a very short deten-
tion our ship went ahead, and we hivd niiule the
fastest passage on record between. Sandy Hook
and Queenstown— 5 days, 22 hours, and 67
minutes. We had run up to noon that day
465 miles, and it was 73 miles more to Queens-
town. We now had 240 miles to Liverpool,
and we expected, all well, to get into Liverpool
early in the morning.

Nov. 6.— We were knocked up early for
breaklast, and found that we were going up the
Mersey. By nine o'clock the passengers were
ready to go on the t nd( ' with the JugtraLre,
which was tak<>n to the Customs and parsed
We got ours over about ten o'clock, and then
k>ok a cab with our luggage to the station.
We could hardly realise that we had left New
York exactly a week before. We had time to
call and see some friends before the train left
and were complimented on our improved
looks and fa.st passage. We left Liverpool at
1.45, and only stopped at Preston, and got to
Carlisle about 4 o'clock — a \ ery fast run ; very
different to the American trains. We had an horn-
in Carlisle, and arrived in Dumfries at 6 o'clock
and were very glad to get back home again^
after an absence of exactly eleven weeks I
was asked by a lady what I thought of this
countrj^ now after all my travels. My answer
to her was — ' More than ever.'

•'/

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